KiBH
JESSICA PEIXOTTO
-
ENCYCLOPEDIA
PRACTICAL
RECEIPTS AND PROCESSES.
CONTAINING
OVER 6400 RECEIPTS;
EMBRACING
THOROUGH INFORMATION, IN PLAIN LANGUAGE, APPLICABLE TO ALMOST EVERT
POSSIBLE INDUSTRIAL AND DOMESTIC REQUIREMENT.
BY
WILLIAM B. DICK,
NEW YORK:
DICK & FITZGERALD, PUBLISHERS
GIFT
OBSERVE.
When searching for anything contained in this book, always refer to the INDEX, noting
the directions given on page 565.
The Receipts are classified, as far as practicable, under the headings to which they
belong ; some of them, however, are applicable to several subjects, but are inserted, to avoid
repetition, under one only. Such receipts, consequently, mighi not be readily found by con-
sulting the Table of Contents, which gives the subject Headings only.
The figures in the Index refer to the number of the Receipt, not the page number.
Entered according in Act of Conprega,' iji tte year 1872, by
PJCK &, FITZGERAL.IX,
In the Office of tbo libianu af Coiigr^s/a't ypqe&ington, D C.
PREFACE.
The original design of the compiler of this work was to prepare a collection of
popular and domestic receipts, to contain only those whose practical utility had
been established, either by actual trial or by the guaranty of undoubted authori-
ties, thus excluding the mass of untried, and, consequently, unreliable information
to be found in Receipt Books, compiled with a view to quantity rather than
quality. As the work progressed, it was found, in many cases, no easy matter to
draw a line between the simple or practical and the artistic or scientific. To meet
this difficulty, it was determined to enlarge its scope, increasing the usefulness of
the former by the additional light of scientific research, and rendering the latter
easy of application by reducing the formulae and technicalities of scientific writers
to plain language, so as to be understood by the uninitiated. To carry out this
idea intelligibly, the plan has been adopted of classifying the various subjects
treated of in the Encyclopedia, so that each should be presented in a compact
form of completeness unattainable by any other method ; omitting only, in order
to save repetition, such information as could be found in connection with some
other subject in another part of the work, but easily reached by the introduction
of reference numbers, or by the aid of the Index.
The result of this change of scheme in the preparation of the Encyclopedia is
twofold: first, an amount of information on popular and household matters
rarely, it is believed, to be found in one volume ; secondly, a condensed digest of
all the practical information, bearing on the various branches of the industrial
arts, that is contained in the best scientific works of modern times, many of which
are costly and technical in style, and some of them rarely to be found in this
country.
This has necessarily involved an almost incredible amount of patient and per-
sistent labor, rendered unavoidable in order to separate and extract the practical
matter from theoretical propositions and speculative deductions, of great value to
the expert, but entirely beyond the scope of a popular work ; this will be fully
corroborated by the annexed list of authorities, which have been quoted or con-
sulted in the preparation of the Encyclopedia. In accomplishing this the compiler
has been assisted by a gentleman whose knowledge of languages, and other at-
tainments, have aided him materially in his undertaking.
The various processes and formulae connected with the Practical Arts form,
therefore, a distinguishing feature of the work, of the highest utility both in the
laboratory and the workshop. They are further explained, where it has been
deemed necessary, with neatly executed illustrations and diagrams, thus giving the
M1411G1
iv PREFACE.
inexperienced a clear insight into many of those scientific operations usually sup-
posed to be attainable only by persons trained and educated for the purpose.
The Receipts containing information more especially applicable to domestic
matters and the requirements of every-day life, deserve more than a passing
notice, as no pains have been spared to make them comprehensive, thorough,
and clearly understood ; showing not only what must be done, but how to do
it, in order to attain any desired result; giving the materials used, their proper
proportions, and how to prepare, mix and apply them; introducing also, wher-
ever advisable or necessary, reliable tests for the purity, strength, etc., of the
substances brought into requisition. This principle of testing is a noticeable
feature throughout the Encyclopedia.
In the Medical department, each recipe or formula is adopted for its efficacy
only, without reference to any particular School of Medicine. Some of them
are published for the first time in this work, being obtained from the private
memoranda of a distinguished physician, and other similar sources.
With the exception of general, but thorough, directions for Curing, Preserving,
Pickling and Canning, Culinary receipts have been avoided, as they may be found
in any reliable Cookery Book ; the design of this work being to afford only such
information as is not otherwise easily attainable.
The Tables of Weights and Measures, and their comparative values, are by a
competent mathematician, and founded on official or other well-established data.
They include also a careful selection of general statistical information from authentic
sources.
The last 24 pages consist of Miscellaneous Receipts, which would not readily
admit of classification ; including, also, a few additional receipts obtained too late
to take their place in the part of the book to which they properly belong. These
will always be found by consulting the Index, a course which will insure the find-
ing of all the information connected with the subject desired.
Condensation has been resorted to throughout the work, as far as possible, and
repetition greatly avoided by the use of reference numbers, which are introduced
wherever it has been found necessary to refer the reader for further information
contained in some paragraph in another part of the book.
A carefully prepared Index is appended, in as condensed a form as perspicuity
will allow. A glance at the directions given at the commencement of the Index
will materially aid in finding the article or paragraph sought for.
In submitting to the public this contribution to the popular resources of general
information and practical knowledge, the compiler begs to offer his apologies for
any errors or omi^ms that may occur in it; reserving for future editions such
corrections and adcHlftns as circumstances may suggest, or the march of improve-
ment demand. By no means assuming the impossible attribute of perfection for
this work, he believes that its contents will at least warrant his claiming for the
Encyclopedia a marked superiority over other existing works of a similar nature.
AUTHORITIES QUOTED AND CONSULTED.
Ajnerican Chemist.
American Dispensatory, 6th Edition.
American Journal of Science and Arts.
Annales de Chimie et de Physique.
Beach's American Practice and Family Physician.
Beasley's Druggists' General Receipt Book, 6th Edition.
Booth's Encyclopedia of Chemistry.
Boston Medical and Surgical Journal.
British Pharmacopeia for 1860.
Bulletin du Muse6 de 1'Indnstrie Belgique.
Bulletin Mensuel de la Societ6 Chimique de Paris.
Bulletin of General Therapeutics .
Chambers' Edinburgh Encyclopedia.
Chemical Times.
Christison's Dispensatory.
Comtes Rendus des Stances de 1'Academie des Sciences.
Cooley's Cyclopaedia of Practical Receipts, 5th Edition.
Cooley's Practical Receipts for Perfumes and Cosmetics.
Cosmos.
Dingler's Polytechnisches Journal.
Druggists' Circular and Chemical Gazette.
Dublin Pharmacopeia for 1850.
Dussauce's Practical Guide for the Perfumer.
Eclectic Medical and College Journal.
Edinburgh Pharmacopoeia for!841.
Ellis's Medical Formulary, 12th Edition.
Fresenius' Zeitschrift fur Analytische Chemie.
Guettier's Metallic Alloys.
Hager's Manuale Pharmaceuticum.
Hall's Journal of Health.
Hamburgh Pharmacopseia.
Jahresbuch der Physik.
Journal de Pharmacie et de Chimie.
Kurten on the Manufacture of Soaps.
London Pharmaceutical Journal and Transactions.
London Pharmacopoeia for 1851.
L'Union Medicale.
Mackenzie's 10,000 Receipts.
Makin's Manual of Metallurgy.
Mechanics' Magazine.
Mohr and Redwood.
-
VI AUTHORITIES QUOTED AND CONSULTED.
Moniteur Scientifique.
Morfit's Chemical Manipulations.
Muspratt's Chemistry as applied to the Arts and Manufactures.
Napier's Manual of Electro-Metallurgy, 4th Edition.
Neues Jahrbuch fur Pharmacie
Ott on Soaps and Candles.
Paris Codex.
Parrish's Practical Pharmacy, 3d Edition.
Pereira's Materia Medica.
Piesse's Art of Perfumery.
Proceedings of the American Pharmaceutical Association..
Prussian Pharmacopoeia.
Rack's French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer, 4th Edition
Redwood's Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia (British).
Revue des Cours Scientifiques.
Revue Hebdomadaire de Chimie.
Revue Scientifique.
Scientific American.
"Wright's 3,000 Receipts.
United States Dispensatory, 13th Edition.
United States Pharmacopeia for 1863.
Ure's Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines.
Youman's Hand Book of Household Science.
Yarious Papers delivered before Scientific Societies.
CONTENTS.
Page.
CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS 9 and 355
PREPARATIONS 17
SPECIFIC GRAVITY 22
ALCOHOLMETRY 23
ACETIMETRY 28
ACIDIMETRY 29
ALKALIMETRY 30
THE THERMOMETER 30
THE ART OF DYEING 31
FAMILY DYEING EECEIPTS 47
To REMOVE STAINS, SPOTS, &c 48
THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING 66
TOILET SOAPS 69
SOAP BY THE COLD PROCESS 72
SOFT SOAPS 73
HOME-MADE TALLOW CANDLES 77
TANNING 78
IMITATION LIQUORS 80
CHAMPAGNE 83
HOME-MADE WINES 84
CORDIALS OR LIQUEURS 89
BITTERS 93
CIDER 94
BREWING 97
PERFUMERY 107
COLOGNE WATER AND PERFUMED SPIRITS 111
To PREPARE FLAVORING EXTRACTS 114
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES 115
EXTRAITS OR PERFUMED EXTRACTS 115
AROMATIC OR PERFUMED WATERS, <fcc..H6
AROMATIC VINEGAR 118
SMELLING SALTS 119
PERFUMED POWDERS AND ROUGES 119
COSMETICS 120
WASHES FOR FAILING HAIR 125
HAIR DYES > 126
DEPILATORIES 128
SCENTED OR PERFUMED OILS 129
POMATUMS OR POMADES .. ...131
Page.
TOOTH POWDERS AND DENTIFRICES 135
TOOTH PASTES AND ELECTUARIES 136
TOOTH AND MOUTH WASHES 137
FUMIGATING PASTILS, AND INCENSE 138
SYRUPS 140
SYRUPS FOR SODA WATER 142
ALCOHOL 144
ESSENTIAL OR VOLATILE OILS 148
FIXED OILS AND FATS 152
PETROLEUM AND KEROSENE 157
LUBRICATORS FOR MACHINERY 158
WATERPROOFING 159
HONEY 161
BEES'-WAX 162
CHEESE 164
PRESERVATIVES AND PRESERVING 165
SOLUTIONS FOR ANATOMICAL PREPARA-
TIONS 170
To PRESERVE WOOD 171
FREEZING MIXTURES 172
DISINFECTANTS 173
BLEACHING 175
VINEGAR 177
SAUCES, CATSUPS AND PICKLES 181
YEAST 184
RECEIPTS FOR THE FLOWER AND KITCH-
EN GARDEN 185
THE EXTERMINATION OF VERMIN 191
PREPARED PAPER 193
IVORY, ALABASTER, &c 198
PYROTECHNY 202
EXPLOSIVES 206
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES 208
LUTES * 217
FLOUR PASTE ".;.?J. 218
GLUE 219
SEALING WAX 221
BOILER INCRUSTATIONS 222
GLASS... ...223
CONTENTS.
Page.
ENAMELS 225
GLAZES .227
ARTIFICIAL GEMS... ...228
FOILS 230
INKS AND WRITING FLUIDS 231
ANILINE COLORS 237
LIQUID COLORS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES. 244
PIGMENTS 248
DRYING OILS AND DRYERS . . ,. .252
HOUSE PAINTING 253
KALSOMINE AND "WHITEWASH .. ...257
PAPER HANGING.
.258
SOLUBLE GLASS 259
To DYE WOOD 260
To STAIN WOOD 262
VARNISH 263
OIL VARNISHES.. ...264
.266
SPIRIT VARNISHES
VARNISHING 272
POLISHING 273
FRENCH POLISHING 274
To ENAMEL WOOD-WORK 275
JAPANNING 277
INDIA JAPANNING 278
. LACQUERS 279
PRESERVATION OF LEATHER 281
BOOT AND SHOE BLACKING 282
MARBLES AND SPRINKLES FOR BOOKS... 283
PHOTOGRAPHY 285
METALS 292
ALLOYS 308
FLUXES 316
SOLDERING AND WELDING 317
AMALGAMS 320
GILDING, SILVERING, <fcc 322
ELECTROTYPING 334
ELECTROPLATING 340
ELECTROGILDING 345
ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS. 349
Page.
BRONZING 352
ACIDS 358
ALKALIES 373
ALKALOIDS 375
GASES .377
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS 381
TESTS OR REAGENTS 407
TEST PAPERS 410
FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS 411
MEDICINAL TINCTURES 414
FLUID EXTRACTS 418
MEDICINAL ESSENCES 423
MEDICATED SYRUPS 425
Ox YMEL 431
ELIXIRS 431
MEDICATED WATERS 436
MEDICINAL SOLUTIONS 437
LOTIONS 441
LINIMENTS 443
PILLS 446
OINTMENTS, SALVES AND CERATES 447
POULTICES 452
PLASTERS 453
GARGLES 455
CAUSTICS 456
RUBEFACIENTS 456
BALSAMS '. . .456
TONICS 458
ANODYNES 459
DIAPHORETICS 459
DIURETICS 460
ELECTUARIES 460
FOMENTATIONS 461
ALTERATIVES 461
EMETICS 461
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.. 462
MEDICAL RECEIPTS 478
TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES, «fcc.513
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. . . .541
DICK'S ENCYCLOPEDIA
PRACTICAL RECEIPTS AND PROCESSES.
Manipulations. TJnder this
heading will be found a brief descrip-
tion of the various methods of chemical ma-
nipulation, constantly employed in this work.
This is deemed especially necessary, as many,
if not all, of the processes described, depend
greatly on careful and skillful manipulation in
the preparation as well as in the combination
of the necessary ingredients. (See No. 3830.J
2. Annealing. The process by which
glass is rendered less frangible, and metals,
which have become brittle, again rendered
tough and malleable. Glass vessels, and other
articles of glass, are annealed by being placed
in an oven or apartment near the furnaces at
which they are formed, called the "leer,"
where they are allowed to cool slowly, the
process being prolonged according to their
bulk. Steel, iron, and other metals, are an-
nealed by heating them and allowing them to
cool slowly on the hearth of the furnace, or
any other suitable place, unexposed , to the
cold.
3. Bath. In cases where an equable heat
has to be sustained at, or not to exceed, a
certain fixed degree, it is evident that an open
fire or flame would be too variable for tho
purpose. To obviate this difficulty, the vessel
to be heated is immersed or imbedded, to a
convenient depth, in another vessel containing
water, oil, saline solution, sand, metal, etc.,
as circumstances require, to which the heat is
applied and whose temperature can be regula-
ted, if necessary, by the use of a thermometer.
Steam is also applied to this purpose ; but, of
course, requires special apparatus. The bath?
most commonly used are the water bath anc
the sand bath.
4. Sand Bath. An iron or copper vesse
should be employed for this purpose. Sufficien
sea or river sand, previously washed clean anc
dried, must be put in to cover the bottom
completely. The vessel to be acted on is thei
introduced, and the intervening space arounc
it filled up to the desired height with sand
and the whole placed over a furnace. Th<
object of the sand is to cut off direct commu
nication with the fire and produce a gradual
,nd equable heat.
5. Water Bath, or Bain-Marie. This
arrangement is used where the heat required
s not over 212° Fah., and consists of one
ressel within another, secured so that they
;annot come in contact at any point below
.he level of the water which has been intro-
duced to fill up the space between them. A
double glue-pot is a water bath.
As the temperature of water cannot be
jicreased, in an open vessel, above its boiling
joint, 212°, a vessel immersed in it can never
je heated above that point ; and, by keeping
the water boiling, this degree can be steadily
sustained. "Where other degrees of heat are
requisite, the following table, showing the
boiling points of different substances and sat-
urated solutions, will serve as a guide. A still
tiigher degree of heat may be reached by using,
with appropriate vessels, metals whose melting
point is known. (See Index for Melting Point
of Metals.)
6. Table exhibiting in degrees of Fah-
renheit the Boiling Heat of different
liquids.
Ether 96°
do sp. grav. : .7365 at 48° 100
Carburet of Sulphur 113
Alcohol, sp. gr. .813 173}
Nitric Acid, sp. gr. 1.42 247
Water 212
Ammonia 14
Muriatic Acid, sp.gr. 1.094 232
Eectified Petroleum 306
Oil of Turpentine 31&
Sulphuric Acid, sp. gr. 1 .848 600
do do do 1.810 473
do do do 1.780. A 435
do do do 1.700 374
do do do 1.650 350
do do do 1.520 290
do do do 1.408 260
do do do 1.300 240
Phosphorus 554
Linseed Oil 64(
Whale Oil g
Mercury °62
: ..:•"•"•••• MANIPULATIONS.
7. Table showing the Boiling Heat of
various Saturated Solutions.
Saturated solution of
Muriate of Lime 285°
Acetate of Soda 256
Nitrate of Soda 246
KochelleSalt 240
Nitre 238
Muriate of Ammonia 236
Tartrate of Potash 234
Sea Salt 224i
Muriate of Soda 224
Sulphate of Magnesia 222
Borax 222
Phosphate of Soda 222
Carbonate of Soda 220
Alum 220
Chlorate of Potash .218
Sulphate of Copper 216
Acetate of Lead 215$
Glauber Salt 213£
8. Concentration. The volatilization or
evaporation of part of a liquid in order to
increase the strength of the remainder. The
operation can only be performed on solutions
of substances of greater fixity than the men-
strua or liquids in which they are dissolved.
Many of the liquid acids, solutions of the
alkalis, etc., are concentrated by distilling off
their water.
9. Crystallization. Crystals are sym-
metrical lorms assumed by certain bodies in
solidifying from a liquid or gaseous state:
and as the same substances, under similar
circumstances, always assume the same
crystalline shape, their crystals afford a means
of distinguishing substances otherwise similar
in appearance ; as for instance oxalic acid and
Epsom salts. Sulphur, anhydrous salts, lead,
tin, and other fusible substances which are
unalterable by heat are crystallized by fusion.
They are to be melted at the lowest possible
temperature, and allowed to cool very gradu-
ally. As soon as a crust forms on the surface
(which then becomes furrowed) it must be
pierced with a rod, and the fluid portion
decanted, and the crystals will be found coat-
ing the interior of the vessel. Volatile solids,
such as iodine, camphor, etc., when heated so
as to produce Sublimation (see No. 30), yield
vapors which, in cooling, take the form of
crystals.
Soluble substances are crystallized by the
evaporation of a saturated solution of the
substance. The solution should be made and,
if necessary, clarified and filtered at boiling
point, in which state more of the substance is
held in solution than when cool; this excess
is deposited in crystalline form as the solution
cools or evaporates. The crystals thus ob-
tained are strained from the remaining liquid,
or mother water, and dried.
If strings be suspended in the hot solution,
crystals will form upon them during cooling
or evaporation; in this manner rock-candy,
blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), alum, etc.,
are crystallized. Crystallization is also some-
times the result of chemical reaction ; silver,
for instance, precipitated from its solutions by
zinc, forms a crystalline deposit.
10. Decantation. The operation of pour-
ing off the clear portion of a liquid from its
sediment. This is performed either by gently
inclining the vessel, or by means of a syphon.
When a liquid is set aside to settle for future
decantation by the first method, it is best to
use a bell shaped vessel, or one provided with
a lip, for convenience in pouring ; as in decant-
ing from a full vessel whose side is straight,
the liquid is very apt to flow down the out-
side of the vessel. This can, however, be
obviated by holding a glass rod or stick, pre-
viously wetted in the liquid, nearly upright,
with one end resting in or suspended over the
receptacle into which the liquid is to be
decanted; the liquid is poured gently down
the upper side of the stick, keeping the rim
of the vessel in contact with it. The liquid
will be more strongly attracted by the wet
stick, than by the dry surface of the outside
of the vessel. (See illustration.)
If this method of decanting is inconvenient,
or, from the nature of the vessel, impossible,
a syphon must be used. This is a tube of
glass or metal, bent at an angle of about 30°,
with one leg or end longer than the other. A
piece of india-rubber tubing makes an excel-
lent and easily adjusted syphon for decanting
liquids which will not affect that material.
The syphon must be first filled and then the
shorter leg inserted in the liquid, care being
taken to keep its extremity always below the
surface, and the liquid will flow continuously
out of the longer leg as long as there is any
left in the vessel. For decanting caustic
liquids, acids, <fcc., syphons of different kinds
are provided, constructed especially for the
purpose.
11. Deflagration. The sudden combus-
tion of any substance, for the purpose of pro-
ducing some change in its composition, by
the joint action of heat and oxygen. The
process is commonly performed by projecting
into a red hot crucible, in small portions at a
time, a mixture of about equal parts of nitre
and of the body to be oxidized.
12. Desiccation. The evaporation or
drying off of the aqueous portion of solid
bodies. Plants and chemical preparations
are deprived of their humidity by exposure
to the sun, a current of dry air, an atmosphere
rendered artificially dry by sulphuric acid, or
by the direct application of heat by means of
a water-bath, a sand-bath, or a common fire.
Planks and timber are now seasoned, on the
large scale, in this way, by which a condition
may be attained in 2 or 3 days, which, on the
old system, took as many years to produce.
13. Distillation. Distillation consists
in vaporizing a liquid in one vessel, and con-
ducting the vapor into another vessel, where
it is condensed and collected. The process is
used for separating a liquid from solid sub-
stances with which it may be mixed ; for im-
pregnating a liquid with the volatile princi-
MANIPULATIONS.
11
pies of plants, as in the preparation of Eau de
Cologne and other aromatic spirits, and for
separating a more volatile liquid from one less
so, as alcohol from water.
For example, as alcohol is transformed into
vapor at the temperature of 176°, while water
remains, at this temperature, in a liquid state,
it is only necessary to heat the mixed liquids
to 176°, when the- alcohol rises in vapor, and
the water is left behind. The vessel in which
the liquids are heated is closed by an air-tight
cover, and from this cover a pipe is led and
coiled through a cask of cold water ; as the
alcoholic vapor enters this cold pipe it is
condensed to the liquid form. This process of
evaporating and condensing a liquid is called
distillation ; the apparatus is called a still or
retort, and the coiled pipe is the "worm of
the still," or the condenser.
On the small scale distillation is performed
in the simplest way by means of the common
glass retort (a,) and the receiver (&,) as in
Fig. 1. The retort may be either simple, as
Mg. 1.
in Fig. 2, or tubulated as in Fig. 1, and some-
times the receiver has a tubulure to allow the
escape of gas or expanded air, as in Fig. 3.
The great advantages of the glass retort are
that it admits of constant observation of the
materials within, that it is acted upon or in-
jured by but few substances, and may be
cleaned generally with facility. Its great
disadvantage is its brittleness.
The tubula-
ted retort is
more liable to
crack than the
plain one, on
account of the
necessarily Fig. 2.
greater thick-
ness of the glass in tho neighborhood of the
tubulature ; nevertheless it is very convenient
on account of the facility which it offers for
the introduction of the materials.
When the common glass retort and receiver
are used for the distillation of liquids, care
should be taken not to apply the luting until
the atmospheric air is expelled (see Lute),
unless the receiver has a tubulure for its
escape. The operator should aim at keeping
the body of the retort hot, and the neck and
receiver cool. A hood of pasteboard will
facilitate the former; and the latter will be
accomplished by keeping the neck and re-
ceiver wrapped in wet cloths, on which a
stream of cold
water is kept run-
ning. This may
be conveniently
done by means of
a syphon, made
.by dipping one
end of a strip of
cotton in a vessel
of water, and al-
lowing the other
end to hang down
upon the cloths,
Fig. 3
bound loosely around the receiver and the
neck of the retort. Retorts are heated in a
water or sand bath, placed over the naked
fire, or they may be held by a circle of metal,
in which case the retort may be heated by
the argand gas flame, as in Fig. 1, or by live
coals. "Where it is to be subjected to a heat
suificient to soften the glass, the bulb may be
previously coated with a mixture of clay afid
sand, and dried. (See JVos. 1695 and follow-
ing.)
Even on the small scale it is sometimes
necessary to employ distillatory apparatus
constructed of other materials besides glass.
The still in general use (seepage 12) may be
considered as composed of three or four parts :
I. The cucurbit or body of the still, A.
This portion of the apparatus receives the
direct action of the fire, and contains the
liquid to be distilled when the process is to
be conducted by a naked fire. It is in the
form of a truncated reversed cone, A, mounted
on a rounded portion, a a, which rests on the
furnace, X X, and terminated at the top by
a collar of somewhat smaller diameter than
the lower part.
C is a hole by which the liquid is introduced
into the body of the apparatus ; d d are the
handles.
II. The water-bath, B, a cylindrical vessel
of tin or tinned copper, which is placed in the
cucurbit, A, closing it lightly by means of
the collar, m, which rests on the collar, 6 6.
This vessel is used only when the mixture to
be distilled is not exposed to the direct heat
of the fire ; in this case the cucurbit, A, fulfills
the office of a water-bath, and the vessel, B,
takes the place of the cucurbit.
"When, instead of distilling by the naked
fire, the water-bath is employed, water only
is put into the cucurbit, in which the vessel,
B, is placed containing the liquid to be dis-
tilled.
III. The head of the capital, G. This part
may be placed either on the cucurbit, when
distilling by naked fire, or on the vessel, B, if
used, care having been taken to make both
openings of the same size ; it is very nearly
the shape of the upper part of a retort, and is
furnished with a large pipe by which the
vapor is to be carried off to the worm or
cooler.
n. A hole which, during the operation, is
kept closed by a screw top, e, and its use is to
introduce fresh liquid into the cucurbit with-
out having to disconnect the apparatus.
IV. The cooler or worm, D. This is a
long tin pipe, bent in the form of a screw, and
enclosed in a copper or wooden vessel full of
MANIP ULA TIONS.
cold water. The up-
per part of the pipe,
which is often en-
larged in a globular
form, receives from
the beak of the cap-
ital the vapors
arising from the cu-
curbit; the lower
portion is open be-
low, so that the con-
densed liquid flows
into a vessel placed
underneath.
All the joints of
the apparatus are to
be luted with bands
of paper soakedin
paste; the joint of
the cucurbit, when
used as a water-
bath, must not be
tight, in order to al-
low of the escape of
the steam from the
boillng water. (See
Lute.)
g g. Tin rests for
Bupporting and fix-
ing the worm in the
vessel.
h. A vertical pipe
fixed to the side of
the vessel, open at both ends and terminated
at the top by a funnel.
This pipe serves to renew the water in the
cooler; cold water is poured in at the top
which flows to the bottom of the vessel, and
being of a lower specific gravity than the hot
water, forces it out at the escape pipe, i.
k. A tap, by which all the water in the
worm tub can be discharged.
/. A connecting pipe inserted between the
beak of the capital and the collar of the still
is of precisely the same height as the collar,
m, of the cucurbit, B, and is only used in
distilling by the water-bath; when a naked
fire is used this pipe is unnecessary, as the
beak will reach down to the collar of the still
without it.
In distilling perfumes and cordials, the
object is to extract or separate the odorous
and aromatic principle from the roots, flowers,
seed, or spices used to impart the character-
istic odor and taste to the liquor, and it is
usual to macerate such ingredients in strong
alcohol several days before distillation. Great
care should be taken that the heat should, in
all cases, be as gentle and uniform as possible.
Kemember that accidents may be effectually
prevented by distilling spirits in a water-bath,
which, if sufficiently large, will perform the
operation with all the dispatch requisite for
the most extensive business.
14. Elutriation. In chemistry, the ope-
ration of washing insoluble powders with
water, to separate them from foreign matter,
or the coarser portion. It is usually per-
formed by grinding or triturating the mass
with a little water, until reduced to a very
fine powder, and this paste is suddenly dif-
fused through a large quantity of water in a
deep vessel, from which, after the subsidence
of the grosser portion, the liquid is poured in-
to another vessel, and allowed to deposit the
fine powder it still holds in suspension.
When this has taken place, the clear super-
natant liquor is decanted, and the sediment
drained and dried. The coarse sediment de-
posited in the first vessel is now submitted to
a fresh grinding and diffusion through water,
and the entire operation is repeated, until
the whole of the pulverizable portion is
washed over. The proper length of time for
the liquid to remain in the first vessel, depends
solely on the density of the powder, and the
degree of fineness required in the product;
heavy powders subsiding almost immediately,
while light ones often take several minutes to
deposit their coarser portion. Sometimes
three or more vessels are employed, and the
muddy liquor, after remaining a short time in
the first, is poured into the next one, and
this, in a short time longer, into the third,
and so on, until the last vessel is filled, by
which means, powders of different degrees of
fineness are obtained; that deposited in the
last vessel being in the minutest state of
division.
15. Evaporation. The conversion of a
fluid into vapor by means of heat, diminished
atmospheric pressure, or exposure to a dry
atmosphere. The process of evaporation is
resorted to; — 1. For the vapor as a source of
heat or power, as in steam boilers, &c.; — 2.
To separate volatile fluids- from other bodies
which are either fixed or less volatile ; — 3. To
recover solid bodies from their solutions ; — 4.
To concentrate or strengthen a solution by
expelling a portion of the liquid; — 5. To
purify liquids by expelling any volatile mat-
ters which they may contain. As evapora-
tion is, under ordinary circumstances, confined
to the surface of the liquid, wide shallow
vessels are the best for the purpose ; the pro-
MANIP ULA TIONS.
13
cess is greatly facilitated by exposing the
surface to a current of dry air, especially if
the air be heated. On a small scale, shallow
capsules of glass, wedgwood ware, porcelain or
metal, are commonly employed, and are ex-
posed to heat by placing them over a lamp,
open fire, or in a water or sand-bath. (See
No. 44.)
16. Fermentation. Chemists distinguish
fermentation into five kinds, viz :
The saccharine fermentation, by which
starch and gum are converted into sugar.
The alcoholic or vinous fermentation, by
which sugar is converted into alcohol.
The viscous or mucilaginous fermentation,
which converts sugar into slime or mucilage,
instead of alcohol.
The acetous fermentation, by which alcohol
is converted into vinegar.
The putrid fermentation, or putrefaction,
which is exhibited in its most marked form in
the putrefaction of animal substances.
17. Filtration. The word filtration is
absolutely synonymous with straining; but,
in the language of the laboratory, the former
is usually applied to the operation of render-
ing liquids transparent, or nearly so, by
passing them through fine media, as filtering
paper, for instance; the latter to the mere
separation of the grosser portion, by running
them through coarse media, as flannel, horse-
hair cloth, etc., through which they flow
with considerable rapidity. Filtration is
distinguished from clarification, by the former
removing the solid matter, or cause of opacity
or foulness, by mere mechanical means,
whereas the latter consists in the clearing of
a liquid by depuration, or the subsidence of
the suspended substances or fgeces, arising
from their gravity being naturally greater
than the fluid with which they are mixed, or
being rendered so by heat or the addition of
some foreign substance. (See Fining.)
The apparatus, vessels, or media, employed
for filtration, are called filters, and are com-
monly distinguished from strainers by the
superior fineness of their pores, as above
noticed.
Both strainers and filters act on the same
principles as the common sieve on powders ;
they all, in like manner, retain or hold back
the coarser matter, but permit the liquid or
smaller and more attenuated particles to pass
through. The term medium has been applied
to the substance through the pores of which
the liquid percolates.
The forms of filters, and the substances of
which they are composed, are various, and
depend upon the nature of the liquids for
which they are intended. On the small scale,
funnels of tin, zinc, copper, wedgwood ware,
earthenware, glass, or porcelain, are common-
ly employed as the containing vessels. The
filtering medium may be any substance of a
sufficiently spongy or porous nature to allow
of the free percolation of the liquid, and
whose pores are, at the same time, sufficiently
fine to render it limpid or transparent. Un-
sized paper, flannel, linen, muslin, cotton- wood,
felt, sand, coarsely-powdered charcoal, porous
stone or earthenware, and numerous other
substances of a similar kind are employed
for this purpose.
Filters of unsized paper are well suited for
Fig. 1.
all liquids that are not of a corrosive or viscid
nature, and are universally employed for
filtering small quantities of liquids in the
laboratory. A piece of the paper is taken, of a
size proportionate to the quantity of the sub-
stance to be filtered, and is first doubled from
corner to corner into a triangle (see Fig. 1,
below), which is again doubled into a smaller
triangle, and the angular portion of the
margin being rounded off with a pair of
scissors, constitutes a paper cone, which is
placed on a funnel and nearly filled with the
liquid. A piece of paper so cut, when laid
flat upon a table, should be nearly circular.
Another method of forming a paper filter, pre-
ferred by some persons, is to double the paper
once, as above described, and then to fold it
in a similar
way to a fan,
observing so
to open it
(see Fig. 2)
and lay it on
the funnel
that a suffi-
cient inter-
val be left
between the
two to per-
mit of the
free percola-
tion of the liquid. (See Fig. 3.)
To promote the same object, a funnel should
be deeply ribbed inside, or small rods of wood or
glass, or pie-
ces of straw,
or quills,
should be
placed be-
tween it and
the paper.
The neck of
a funnel
should also
be deeply rib-
bed or fluted
outside, to
permit of the
free outward passage of the air when it is
placed in a narrow-mouthed bottle or receiver.
Unless this is the case, the filtration will pro-
ceed but slowly, and the filtered liquid wifi be
driven up the out-
side of the neck of
the funnel by the
confined air, and
will be continually
hissing and flowing
over the mouth of
the vessel. The
breadth of a funnel,
to filter well, should
be about three-
fourths of its height,
reckoning from the
throat or neck. If
deeper, the paper is
liable to be contin-
ually ruptured from
the pressure of the
fluid; and when
shallmver, filtration
proceeds slowly,
Fig. 3. and an unnecessa-
*
MANIPULATIONS.
rily large surface of the liquid is exposed to
evaporation. To lessen this as much as pos-
sible, the upper edge of the glass is frequently
ground perfectly smooth, and a piece of smooth
plate-glass is laid thereon. When paper fil-
ters are of large dimensions, or for aqueous
fluids that soften the texture of the paper, or
for collecting heavy powders or metallic pre-
cipitates, it is usual to support them on linen or
muslin to prevent their breaking. This is best
done by folding the cloth up with the paper
and cutting the filter out or the two, in the
same way as would be done with doubled
paper, observing so to place it in the funnel
that the paper and muslin may remain close
together, especially towards the bottom.
The filtration of small quantities of liquids,
as in chemical experiments, may often be
conveniently performed by merely placing the
paper on the circular top of a recipient; or
on a ring of glass or earthenware laid on the
top of any suitable vessel. A filter of this
kind, that will hold one fluid ounce, will filter
many ounces of some liquids in an hour.
Good filtering paper should contain no sol-
uble matter, and should not give more than
one two hundred and fiftieth to one two hun-
dred and thirtieth of its weight of ashes. The
soluble matter may be removed by washing
it, first with very dilute muriatic acid, and
secondly with distilled water.
For filtering a larger quantity of a liquid
than can be conveniently managed with a fun-
nel, and also for substances that are either too
viscid or too much loaded with feculence to
allow them to pass freely through paper,
conical bags made of flannel, felt, twilled cot-
ton cloth or Canton flannel, linen, or muslin,
and suspended to iron hooks by rings or tapes,
are commonly employed. (See Fig. 4.) The
mm.
Fig. 4.
first two of the above substances are prefer-
able for saccharine, mucilaginous, and acidu-
lous liquids ; the third for oily ones ; and the
remainder for tinctures, weak alkaline lyes,
and similar solutions. These bags have the
disadvantage of sucking up a considerable
quantity of the fluid poured into them, and
are therefore objectionable, except for large
quantities, or when continued in actual use
as filters for some time. On the large scale,
a number of them are usually worked to-
gether, and are generally enclosed in cases to
prevent evaporation, and to exclude dirt from
the filtered liquor that trickles down their
outsides.
A very simple mode of filtering aqueous
fluids, which are not injured by exposure to
the air, is to draw them off from one vessel
to another, by means of a number of threads
of loosely twisted cotton or worsted arranged
in the form of a syphon. The little cotton
rope at once performs the operations of de-
cantation and nitration. This method is often
convenient for sucking off the water from
small quantities of precipitates.
When pulverulent substances, as sand,
coarsely -powdered charcoal, etc., are em-
ployed as the media for filtration, vessels of
Fig. 5.
wood, or stoneware, are employed to contain
them and the supernatant liquid. In these
cases, the filtering medium is usually arranged
as a shelf or diaphragm, and divides the vessel
into two compartments ; the upper one being
intended to contain the liquid, and the under
one to receive the same when filtered. Such
an apparatus is set in operation by merely
filling the upper chamber, and may, at any
time, be readily cleaned out by reversing it
and passing clean water through it in an
opposite direction. The following is a filter
of this description, and very simple in its
arrangement. (See Fig. 5.) A is a common
cask, B and C are false bottoms, fitting in per-
fectly air tight, but perforated with one-fourth
inch holes. C should be covered with canvas,
and above that a sheet of cotton wadding ;
above the wadding is abed of perfectly clean
sand, 3 inches deep. The sand should be cov-
ered over with flannel, and above the flannel
should be a bed of granulated animal charcoal
(sifted and fanned from the dust), 4 inches
in depth. After having done this, fit in the
false bottom, B, and cover it with a piece of
cotton cloth. D is a bag made of Canton
flannel to prevent the liquor being filtered
from coming with too much force upon the
false bottom. By substituting cotton wadding
instead of the charcoal in the above filter, a
fine filter for brandy and other liquors may
be obtained.
M A NIP ULATIO NS.
15
A filter which possesses the advantages of
being easily and cheaply cleaned when dirty,
and which very thoroughly purifies brandy
or water with great rapidity, may be formed
by placing a stratum of sponge between two
perforated metallic plates, united by a central
screw, and arranged in such a manner as to
permit of the sponge being compressed to any
required degree. Brandy or water, under
gentle pressure, flows with great rapidity
through the pores of compressed sponge.
It is often of great advantage to render a
filter self-acting, or to construct it in such a
way that it may feed itself, so that it may
continue full and at work without the con-
stant attention of the operator. On the small
scale, this may bo readily effected by an ar-
rangement as represented in Fig. 6; and on
the large scale by pla-
cing the vessel con-
taining the unfiltered
liquid on a higher level
than the filter, and by
having the end of the
supply-pipe fitted with
a ballcock, to keep the
liquid in the filter con-
stantly at the same
height. (8eeNo.'3840.)
The rapidity of fil-
tration depends upon
the porosity of the fil-
tering medium — the
extent of filtering sur-
face— the relative vis-
cidity or limpidness of
the filtering liquid,
and the porosity and
fineness of the sub-
Fig. 6.
stances it holds in suspension. The most
efficient filter is produced when the first two
are so graduated to the latter, that the liquid
filters rapidly and is rendered perfectly trans-
parent. (See No. 3838.) (Cooley.)
Tinctures and dilute spirits are usually
filtered through bibulous paper placed on a
funnel, or through thin and fine cotton bags.
In general, tinctures clarify themselves by the
subsidence of the suspended matter, when al-
lowed to repose for a few days. Hence it is
the bottoms alone that require filtering ; the
supernatant clear portion need only be run
through a small hair sieve, a piece of tow or
cotton placed in the throat of a funnel, or
some other coarse medium, to remove any
floating substances, as pieces of straw, <fcc.
Spirits largely loaded with essential oil, as
those of aniseed, <tc., run rapidly through
paper or muslin, but usually require the addi-
tion of a spoonful or two of magnesia before
they will flow quite clear. When possible,
tinctures, spirits, and all similar volatile fluids,
are better cleared by subsidence or clarifica-
tion than by filtration, as, in the latter way,
part is lost by evaporation. (See Nos. 3834, <fec.)
18. Gun-cotton as a Filter. Gun-cot-
ton, carefully prepared, is scarcely acted on
by the most energetic chemical agents at or-
dinary temperatures. 'It may therefore be
used as a filter for solutions containing strong
acids, alkalies, etc.
19. Fusion. Aqueous fusion is the dis-
solving of crystalline compounds in their own
water of crystallization, by the application of
heat. Igneous fusion is a term applied to the
liquefaction of bodies by heat alone. The
containing vessels used for igneous fusion
should be of a material capable of sustaining
the requisite degree of heat without either
melting or cracking. Crucibles made of very
refractory clay are used for high temperatures,
metallic or earthenware vessels for lower de-
grees of heat.
20. Granulation. The reduction of
metals into grains, drops, or coarse powder.
This is done by pouring them, in the melted
state, into water. The same effect is obtained
by violently agitating the molten metal until
cool, in a wooden box, well chalked inside.
(See No. 25.) In many cases the metal ia
allowed to run through the holes of a kind of
colander or sieve to produce minute division ;
if the drops are allowed to fall from a sufficient
height, they will become spherical; in this
way lead shot is made.
21. Liquation. The process of sweating
out, by heat, the more fusible metals of an
alloy.
22. Liquefaction. The conversion of a
solid into the liquid state, either by heat —
fusion, (see No. 19) ; absorption of water from
the air — deliquescence; or the action of a
fluid body — solution. (See No.^ 29.) The
liquefaction of gases and vapors is effected by
pressure and cold.
23. Lixiviation. The process of disolv-
ing out or extracting the saline matter of
bodies, more especially of ashes, <fec., by
means of ablution or digestion in water. The
solution so obtained is called a lye or lixivium,
and the salts resulting from the evaporation
of such solutions, lixivia! salts.
24. Precipitation. This is the method
for obtaining solid matter, by mixing two or
more solutions of substances containing cer-
tain elementary equivalents which have a
strong mutual chemical affinity. That fluid
which is added to another to produce precipi-
tation is called the precipitant. If a solution
is to be precipitated, it is best, unless other-
wise directed, to first heat it by means of a
sand bath. (See No. 4.) A tall bell-shaped
glass with a mouth is the best for precipitat-
ing. The precipitant is to bo added gradually,
stirring the mixture continually with a glass
rod, until precipitation ceases. The liquid
should then be allowed to settle until clear.
In order to ascertain whether there is any
matter left in the liquid unprecipitated, let
one drop of the precipitant fall into the mix-
ture ; if any signs of precipitation ensue, more
must be added; if the mixture remains un-
changed and clear, the operation is complete.
The liquid may then be carefully decanted
and the precipitated matter, which is called a
precipitate, filtered and dried. When the pre-
cipitate is the chief object of the process, it is
usually necessary to wash it after filtration.
This operation requires but little attention
when the precipitate is insoluble in water;
but when it is in some degree soluble in that
liquid, great attention is required to prevent
the loss which might result from the use of
too much water. Precipitates soluble in
water, but insoluble in alcohol, are frequently,
on a small scale, washed with spirit more or
less concentrated. (See No. 14.)
25. Pulverization. The reduction of
16
MANIPULATIONS.
any substance to dust or powder is generally
performed by means of a pestle and mortar, or,
on a larger scale, by stamping, grinding or
milling. A few soft substances, as carbonate
of magnesia, carbonate of lead, <fec., may be
pulverized by simply rubbing through a fine
sieve ; while many hard and gritty, and some
soft substances, such as chalk, antimony, &c.,
are pulverized on a large scale by elutriation.
(See No. 14.) Others will only yield to a
rasp or file. Whichever method is adopted,
the substance to be pulverized must be very
dry, and may even require artificial drying
or desiccation. (See No. 12.) On the other
hand, a few substances, as rice, sago, nux
vomica, <fcc., are often soaked in water, or
steamed, before being pulverized. In some
cases, some other substance or intermedium is
introduced to aid in the operation; thus,
sugar is used in pulverizing civet, musk, nut-
meg, and vanilla; absorbing the moisture
which could not otherwise be readily got rid
of. The addition of a very small quantity of
alcohol renders the powdering of camphor
easy. Gold leaf is pulverized by mixing with
sulphate of potassa, and then removing the
potassa by washing with water. (See also
•N»\ 2517.) Fusible metals are reduced by
melting and rubbing in a mortar until cold,
or by agitating when melted in a box covered
inside with chalk or whiting. Glass, quartz
and silicated stones require to be heated red
hot and then thrown into cold water, to make
them sufficiently friable for pulverization.
"WTien powdering very dusty or costly articles
in a mortar, it should be covered with a loose
skin of leather, fastened firmly round the top
of the mortar and the pestle, to prevent loss
of the dust, and possible injury to the opera-
tor's lungs. When a substance is required to
be reduced to an impalpable powder, a slab
and muller are used ; this process is termed
porphyrization.
26. Reduction. This term is applied to
a process by which the oxygen is withdrawn
from a metallic oxide, leaving the base in its
original state. This is effected by heating the
oxide with carbon or hydrogen ; or by expos-
ing it to the action of some other body which
has a powerful affinity for oxygen. A por-
tion of the metallic oxide to be reduced, is
mixed with finely powdered charcoal and ex-
posed in a crucible to the heat of a furnace.
The metallic residue, which remains after re-
duction by this means, is usually mixed with
coal dust. This is prevented by lining the
crucible with charcoal dust made into a dough
with clay and water, leaving a space in the
middle to receive the metallic oxide, not
mixed with charcoal, as in the former instance ;
the crucible must be covered, and then heated.
The reduction in this way is slower, but the
metal will be pure and free from coal dust.
When hydrogen is employed for reduction,
the metallic oxide is heated to redness in a
glass or porcelain tube, and subjected to a
current ot hydrogen gas, which absorbs the
oxygen, and leaves the metal pure. Other
agents are sometimes used for reducing, as
tallow, oil, resin, sugar, and starch ; but car-
bon and hydrogen are the agents generally
employed.
27. Saturation. A liquid is said to be
saturated with some other substance when it
ceases to dissolve any more of it. An acid is
saturated with an alkali when sufficient of the
alkali has been added to completely neutralize
the acid, and vice versa.
28. Sifting. This is a means employed
to obtain uniformity of fineness in a pulver-
ized substance ; and is also of use in mixing
different substances powdered to the same
degree of fineness. The sieves used for this
purpose are furnished with cloths of various
materials and different degrees of fineness;
consisting of brass wire, horse hair, buckram,
book muslin, gauze, or raw silk; this last
constituting a bolting cloth for sifting im-
palpable powders. These are stretched over
a wooden cylinder in the same manner as the
head of a drum. During the process of pul-
verizing, the use of the sieve is necessary from
time to time to separate the finer powder from
the coarser particles, which have to be re-
turned after each sifting, to the mortar for
further trituration. The powder is made to
pass through the meshes of the sieve by
gently agitating it between the hands; a
rough jarring motion will force through some
of the coarser particles, and destroy the uni-
formity of the powder. A sieve should be
fitted with a drum head, top and bottom, the
upper one to confine the dust of the substance
being sifted, and the lower one to catch the
sifted powder as it falls through the sieve.
An arrangement of this kind is called a drum
or box sieve.
29. Solution. Under the head of solu-
tions, are properly included only those liquids
which consist of water or an aqueous men-
struum, in which has been dissolved an ap-
propriate quantity of any soluble substance to
impart to the liquor its peculiar properties.
When spirit is the dissolving medium, the
liquid receives the name of alcoholic solution,
spirit, or tincture, while substances dissolved
in water form aqueous solutions. In cases
where a substance is dissolved in an acid or
alkaline solution, whose acid or alkali is after-
wards neutralized by means of an alkali (to
counteract the acid), or an acid (to destroy
alkali), the solution is then termed a neutral
solution. A saturated solution is a solution
made according to No. 27.
Professor Youmans, in the "Hand Book of
Household Science," says : " Solids should
be crushed or pulverized, to expose the largest
surface to the action of the solvent liquid.
Substances which in the lump would remain
for days undissolved, when reduced to powder
are liquefied in a short time. When a solid,
as common salt or alum, is placed in a vessel
of water to dissolve, it rests at the bottom.
The water surrounding it becomes saturated,
and being heavier, remains also at the bot-
tom, so that the solution proceeds very slowly.
By stirring, the action is hastened, but this
takes up much time. The best plan is to
suspend the salt in a colander, basket, or
coarse bag, at the surface of the liquid. As
the particles of water take up the particles of
salt, they become heavier and sink; other
particles take their places, dissolve more of
the salt, and sink in turn, so that the action
of a constant current of liquid is kept up on
the suspended crystals, and always at that
portion most capable of dissolving them."
30. Sublimation. The process by which
PREPARATIONS.
17
volatile solid substances are reduced to the
state of vapor by heat, and again condensed
in solid form. It differs from ordinary distil-
lation only in being confined to dry solid
substances, and in the heat employed being,
in general, much greater. Calomel, corrosive
sublimate, and sal ammoniac, are thus pre-
pared.
31. Trituration. The reduction of a
solid body to powder by nibbing. This is
effected on a small scale by means of a pestle
and mortar ; and on a larga scale by grinding
in a mill, or with a muller or a slab made of
porphyry or other hard substance ; this latter
is termed porphyrization.
32. Washing. This is resorted to in
chemistry for two widely different purposes.
When a substance contains both soluble and
insoluble matter, the soluble portion can be
separated from the insoluble by washing ; this
is called Lixiviation. (See No. 23. )
"When it is desired to cleanse or remove im-
purities from an insoluble powder, this is also
effected by washing. (See Nos. 14 and 3841.)
Preparations. The following
methods of preparing decoctions, ex-
tracts, tinctures, &c., are from the best practi-
cal sources. Other directions for making
extracts, essences, attars, &c., for the special
purposes of Perfumery, <fcc., will be found
under their respective headings.
34. To Prepare Decoctions. Decoc-
tions are solutions of the properties of vegeta-
bles obtained by boiling, which is presumed
to be a more effective method of extracting
their properties than mere infusion.
For making decoctions, the substances
should be well bruised, or reduced to a very
coarse powder, or, if fresh and soft, they
should be sliced small. In the former case,
any very fine powder or adliering dust should
be removed with a sieve, as its presence
would tend to make the product thick and
disagreeable, and also more troublesome to
strain. The vessel in which the boiling is
conducted should be furnished with an accu-
rately fitting cover, the better to exclude the
air, and the heat should be so regulated that
the fluid may be kept "simmering," or only
gently boiling, as violent boiling is not only
quite unnecessary, but absolutely injurious.
In every case the liquor should be strained
while hot, but not boiling, and the best meth-
od of doing this is to employ a fine hair sieve,
or a coarso flannel bag. In general it is
found, that as decoctions cool, a sediment is
formed, in consequence of the boiling water
dissolving a larger portion of vegetable mat-
ter than it can retain in solution when cold.
This deposit for the most part consists of the
active principles of the solution, and should
be mingled with the clear liquid by agitation,
when the decoction is used. It will thus be
seen that the common practice of leaving the
filtration until the liquid has become cold, and
also of rejecting the sediment, is injudicious,
and should be scrupulously avoided; as, how-
ever much decoctions so prepared may please
the eye, they are not only inferior in strength,
but, in many cases, nearly inert. It may be
further remarked, that long boiling is in no
case necessary, and should be avoided, espe-
cially in decoctions prepared from aromatic
vegetables, or those abounding in extractive.
The colleges, in such cases, direct the ingre-
dients "to be boiled for a short time," or "for
10 minutes," or they limit the time of boiling
by stating the quantity that must be volatil-
ized, as — "boil to &pint, and strain," the lat-
ter method being generally employed for
those substances that do not suffer by length-
ened boiling.
Distilled water, or perfectly clean rain
water, should alone be used for decoctions.
Spring and river water, from then- containing
lime, have less solvent powers.
Decoctions of all vegetables not exerting a
very powerful action on the human system
may be made by boiling 1 ounce of the vegeta-
ble matter in 1 pint of. water for 10 or 15
minutes. The ordinary dose of such a decoc-
tion is the same as that of a similar infusion.
(See No. 37.)
"When the medicinal properties of vegetables
are volatile, or are injured by a strong heat,
infusion should be had recourse to, in prefer-
ence to boiling; but when a solution of the
fixed constituents is alone sought, decoction
is preferable. In preparing compound decoc-
tions, those ingredients should be boiled first
which least readily impart their active princi-
ples, and those which most readily impart
them should be added afterwards. In many
cases it will be proper simply to infuse the
more aromatic substances in the hot decoction
of the other ingredients, by which means
their volatile principles will be preserved.
35. To Prepare Tinctures. Tinctures
are solutions of vegetable and animal drugs,
and sometimes of mineral substances, in spir-
ituous liquids. The spirit most commonly
employed is proof-spirit; sometimes rectified
spiritis used, and occasionally ether. Ammonia
is sometimes conjoined with the spirit, in which
case the solution is termed an ammoniated
tincture. Kectified spirit is alcohol, with 16
per cent, of water, and its specific gravity is
.838. Proof-spirit is composed of 5 parts of
rectified spirit mixed with 3 parts of water,
the resulting compound containing 47.5 per
cent, of water, specific gravity .920. The
choice between proof and rectified spirit de-
pends on their respective solvent powers over
the active principles of the drugs employed.
Tinctures are usually prepared by reducing
the solid ingredients to small fragments,
coarse powder, or fine powder, macerating
them for 7 days or upwards in proof or rec-
tified spirit, straining the solution through
linen or muslin, or paper, and finally express-
ing the residuum strongly, to obtain what
fluid is still retained in the mass. They aro
also prepared by the method of displacement.
(See No. 41.) All tinctures should be pre-
pared in close glass or stoneware vessels, and
be shaken frequently during the process of
maceration. Tinctures are better clarified by
repose than by filtration, as in the latter case a
considerable portion is retained by the fil-
tering medium, and lost by evaporation. In
ordinary cases, it will be sufficient to allow
the tincture to settle for a few days, and then
to pour off the clear supernatant portion
through a funnel loosely choked with a piece
of sponge or tow, to keep back any floating
18
PREPARATIONS.
fragments of straw or other light substances;
after which the remaining foul portion of the
liquid may be filtered through paper. When
it is absolutely necessary to filter a tincture,
and the quantity is large, conical bags should
be employed. The filtration should be con-
ducted as rapidly as possible, for the double
purpose of lessening the amount lost by evap-
oration, and the action of the air on the fluid.
Tinctures long exposed to the air frequently
lose their transparency within a few days
after their filtration, owing to the oxidation
and precipitation of some portion of the mat-
ter previously held in solution. Resinous and
oily tinctures, as those of myrrh, tolu, and
lavender, may be usually restored to their
former brightness by the addition of a quan-
tity of spirit, equal to that which they have
lost by evaporation; but many tinctures resist
this mode of treatment, and require refiltering.
Ethereal tinctures are best prepared by perco-
lation, and should be both made and kept in
stoppered bottles.
When both the substances are fluid, as in
the case of certain balsams, the spirituous so-
lution is made by merely mixing the two
together in suitable proportions. For instance
— Tincture or essence of Tolu consists of 3
drachms balsam of Tolu and 1 quart of al-
cohol.
The tinctures of the drug-stores are usually
very uncertain and inferior preparations. Not
only is their manufacture carelessly conduct-
ed, without reference to the respective char-
acters of their ingredients, but the ingredients
themselves are often deficient in strength and
quantity.
We will now proceed to explain the various
methods by which good tinctures are obtained.
36. To obtain Tinctures by Infusion,
Maceration, and Digestion. In order to
extract the soluble principles of substances
which cannot be advantageously distilled, in-
fusion is often resorted to. This consists in
submitting them for a greater or less period
of time to the action of a liquid, with or with-
out the aid of heat.
^This is known by the name of infusion,
digestion, or maceration, terms all signifying
the same process with different modifications
in the way of conducting it.
87. Infusion, When the principles to
be extracted are soluble in water, and at the
same time but slightly volatile, boiling water
is poured on the substance of which the infu-
sion is required, the vessel is carefully covered,
and the whole allowed to remain untouched
for some minutes or even some hours, accord-
ing to the greater or less penetrability of the
substance, and the required strength of the
infusion ; the result is an INFUSION, properly
so called.
If an infusion is required of dried leaves or
flowers, they are first moistened with a little
boiling water, and a time allowed for them to
swell and soften before adding the rest of the
water. Infusions made by adding all the
water at once, as is still frequently practiced,
are deficient both in flavor and perfume. The
infusion of tea is an every-day illustration of
this ; as all who can make a good cup of tea
know how necessary it is to first draw the
tea with a small portion of water ; and yet,
strange to say, this principle is utterly ne-
glected in the case of coffee, where its applica-
tion is just as effective. (See French Coffee.)
Infusions of all vegetables that do not
exert a very powerful action on the human
frame, may be made by pouring 1 pint of
boiling water on 1 ounce of the vegetable
matter and allowing it to macerate for from
$ to 1 hour. The ordinary dose of such in-
fusions is 1 to 2 ounces three or four times a
day.
Infusions, like decoctions, are liable to un-
dergo spontaneous decomposition by keeping,
especially in warm weather, when a few hours
are often sufficient for their passage into a
state of active fermentation; they should
therefore be prepared for use daily, as beyond
24 hours they cannot be depended on.
Infusions should be made in vessels which
cannot be attacked by any of the substances
with which they are in contact, and closed
sufficiently tight to prevent the loss of the
most volatile principles.
The tin cucurbit, with cover, is in these two
respects best adapted for infusions in water.
38. Concentrated Infusions. These
are now very generally met with in trade,
and are made of 8 times the pharmacopoeia!
strength. They are mostly prepared by em-
ploying 8 times the usual quantity of ingre-
dients, and only three-fourths of the proper
quantity of water, and adding to the strained
liquor, when cold, sufficient spirit of wine to
bring the liquid up to the proper strength
(about one-third of the weight of the strained
infusion). A still better plan is to treat 8
times the usual quantity of the ingredients
with a mixture of rectified spirits 1 part and
cold water 3 parts ; in the usual way for
making tinctures, either by maceration for 7
to 14 days, or by percolation. Concentrated
infusions made in this way keep well, and de-
posit scarcely any sediment. Many houses,
that are remarkable for the brilliancy and
beauty of these preparations, employ one-
third spirit of wine and two-thirds water as
the menstruum. It may, however, be taken
as a general rule, that for vegetable substances
that abound in woody fibre, and contain but
little extractive matter soluble in water (as
quassia for instance), one-sixth to one-fifth
part of spirit is sufficient for their preserva-
tion ; while for those abounding in mucilage
or fecula, or that readily soften and become
pulpy and glutinous in weak spirit (as rhu-
barb), one-fifth to one-third is required. By
macerating in the infusion as much bruised
mustard seed as can be added without flavor-
ing the liquor, along with a little bruised
cloves, most vegetable infusions may be pre-
served without either fermenting or becom-
ing mouldy with very little spirit (one-ninth
or one-tenth).
39. Maceration. When an infusion is
made without the aid of heat it is termed
maceration. This takes a much longer time
than an infusion, properly so called ; it rarely
requires less than 7 days, sometimes several
weeks. Those substances to which heat
would be injurious, or which are easily solu-
ble, are treated in this way. In many distil-
lations this method is made use of to Soften
the substances before putting into the still ;
and to facilitate the extraction of their odor-
ous principle.
PREPARATIONS.
Tinctures, when prepared by maceration,
should be frequently shaken during the pro-
cess, which should be conducted in glass
vessels well stopped.
40. Digestion is a prolonged infusion
which is usually conducted at a medium tem-
perature between that required for an infusion,
properly so called, and that of a maceration.
Its object is usually to impregnate alcohol
with the principles of a substance whic]
would be but slowly extracted without th
aid of a certain amount of heat, such as tha
of the sun or of hot ashes.
Mixing together two or more liquors am
allowing them to stand for some days, is als<
called digestion.
Maceration and digestion arc usually per
formed in vessels of stoneware or glass, which
are placed on the sand-bath, in cases where a
regular and uniform heat is required.
"Whatever may be the form or nature of th
vessels employed, care must be taken not to
fill them full, also to cover those which are
to be placed on the sand-bath with a damp
piece of parchment tightly tied round the top
with many pin holes pricked in it. If this
latter precaution be neglected, the increasec
volume produced by the heat and also the ex-
pansion of the air may burst it. Moreover,
the process is never so well conducted in a
vessel that is too full.
41. To obtain Tinctures by Displace-
ment or Percolation. The kind of filtra-
tion commonly called the process of displace-
ment, for extracting the essence from roots,
herbs, seeds, barks, &c., is effected in the
following manner : It is first necessary that
the articles to be acted upon should be ground
in a drug mill to the condition of a coarse
powder ; then weigh each powder by itself,
and mix them together in the proportions
demanded by the recipe, and moisten the
mass thoroughly with alcohol, allowing it to
macerate for 12 hours in a vessel well covered.
Next is required a hollow instrument of
cylindrical form, having one end shaped liked
a funnel, so that it can be inserted in the neck
of a glass bottle, and having inside, near the
lower end, a partition pierced with numerous
small holes, like the strainer of a French
coffee-pot, which is a simple coffee percolator ;
in the absence of such a partition, soft cotton,
or any insoluble substance, may be substituted,
and being placed in the inside at the lower
end of the instrument, will answer as well as
the strainer. This instrument is called a
percolator. Boullay's filter or percolator is
usually employed. Macerate the ingredients
to be acted upon, for the time named — intro-
duce them into the percolator, and slightly
press«them upon the partition. Any portion
of the liquid used in the maceration, not ab-
sorbed by the powder, should be poured upon
the mass in the instrument, and allowed to
percolate. JSTow gradually pour into the per-
colator sufficient of the alcohol, or other
liquid to be filtered, to drive before it, or dis-
place, the liquid contained in the mass; the
portion introduced must in like manner be
displaced by another portion ; and so on, till
the required quantity of filtered liquor is ob-
tained. This extract is called a tincture. In
case the liquor which first passes through
should be thick and turbid, again introduce it
into the instrument, being very careful not to
have the powder too coarse or loosely pressed,
or it will permit the liquid to pass too quickly;
and on the other hand it should not be too
: fine and compact, or it may offer an unneces-
: sary resistance. Should the liquor flow too
I rapidly, return it to the instrument, and close
i it beneath for a time, and thus permit the
; finer parts of the powder to subside, and cause
a slower percolation.
The method of percolation is now preferred
by all who have made sufficient trial of it to
apply it correctly.
The first portion of liquid obtained by the
method of displacement is always in a state
of high concentration. In general it is a
simple solution of the soluble ingredients of
the crude drug in the fluid employed. But
sometimes the solvent, if compound, is re-
solved into its compound parts, and the fluid
which passes through it at any given time is
only one of these, holding in solution only the
most soluble parts of the drug.
Thns, if diluted alcohol be poured over
powder of myrrh, in the cylinder of the per-
colator, the fluid which first drops into the
receiver is a solution of an oily consistence
chiefly composed of resin and volatile oil dis-
solved in alcohol. In like manner when the
powder of gall-nuts is treated in the same
way by hydrated sulphuric ether, two layers
of fluid are obtained, one of which is a highly
concentrated solution of tannin in the water
of the ether, and the other a weak solution of
the same principle in pure ether. In all
cases, therefore, m which it is not otherwise
directed, it is absolutely necessary to agitate
the several portions of the liquid obtained by
percolation together, in order to insure a pro-
duct of uniform strength, or activity.
To illustrate the operation of displacement,
and describe an excellent
percolator for making per-
fume tinctures, we will sup-
pose that benzoin is under
treatment. The apparatus
made wholly of glass, hav-
ing been arranged as shown
by the engraving, and a plug
of raw cotton dropped loose-
c^ly at 6, the benzoin in coarse
powder is then poured into
the tube portion, A, until it
C reaches the line, c. Alco-
hol (95 per cent.) is next
added, until it rises to the
line, d. As soon as the first
portion sinks into the ben-
zoin, a fresh addition must
be made ; and thus the suc-
ceeding relays go on dis-
placing those which pre-
ceded them without mingling
with them. Each stratum
becomes more and more
charged with soluble matter
as it descends; and when
it reaches the bottom of the
mass, under the pressure of
the superincumbent liquor,
it runs out saturated. When,
by successive additions of
fresh alcohol, the benzoin
inder treatment has become exhausted, the
20
PREPARATIONS.
liquid passes through the mass, and falls
into the receiver, B, as tasteless and colorless
as when first poured in. This indicates the
completion of the process.
As atmospheric pressure is an important
element in the operation, it will not answer
to shut it off by closing the top of the dis-
placer, without making some compensating
arrangement; and, therefore, a communica-
tion between the upper and lower vessels is
established by means of a latent-tube arrange-
ment, D. In this manner the apparatus is
kept close, and the evaporation of alcohol
prevented, while the pressure produced is dis-
tributed throughout the apparatus, and ren-
dered uniform. As the runnings are clear,
filtration is rarely necessary. The quantity of
alcohol thus consumed need not be more than
sufficient to exhaust the material ; and the
resulting tincture must therefore be diluted to
the proper strength. For perfumes, deodorized
alcohol arast always be used.
The method of displacement has the advan-
tage of expedition, economy, and yielding pro-
ducts possessing uniformity of strength ; but it
requires considerable experience to adapt it to
all substances. The art rests in properly
packing the ingredients in the cylinder, some
substances requiring considerable pressure to
be used, while others, when even lightly
packed, scarcely permit the fluid to pass
through them. An excellent plan applicable
to all substances, but especially those of a
glutinous or mucilaginous nature, is to mix
the powder with an equal bulk of well-washed
sand, before rubbing it up with the menstruum.
The coarseness of the powder must also be at-
tended to. Substances that readily become
soft and pappy when wetted by the menstruum,
should not be used so fine as those that are
more woody and fibrous. The method of
displacement answers well for the preparation
of all tinctures that are not of a resinous
nature, and for most infusions of woody and
fibrous substances, as roots, woods, barks,
leaves, seeds, insects, &c. It is especially
adapted for the preparation of concentrated
infusions and essences, as they may thus be
obtained of any required strength, without
loss, or requiring concentration by heat,
which is so destructive to their virtues.
When ordinary tinctures are made in large
quantities, displacement is never likely to su-
persede maceration, on account of any prac-
tical advantages it may possess. If the pre-
scribed directions be duly attended to, the pro-
cess of maceration is unexceptionable. The
process is more simple than the other; the
mode of operating more uniform ; it is, in fact,
always the same ; it requires less of skill and
dexterity in conducting it; it requires less
constant attention during its progress, which,
in operating on large quantities, is a considera-
tion; and finally, the apparatus required is less
complicated. When, however, only small
quantities of tincture are to bo made at a time,
and kept in stock, the adoption of the process
of displacement will often be found conve-
nient and advantageous. It offers the means
of making a tincture in two or three hours,
which, by the other process, would require as
many weeks. (Sec No. 4572.)
42. Proportion of Ingredients used
for making Tinctures. Tho following are
the proportions usually employed for the most
important perfume tinct res :
Tincture. Troy. Alcohol.
Vanilla Vanilla bean, rasped — 1 Ib 8 pts.
Musk Grain musk 2 dracbms.8 pts.
Franeipani Powder alafrangipani.l Ib 6 pts.
Rhodium Rhodium-wood, rasped. 1 Ib 2 qts.
Civet Civet, orria-root % oz 2 qts.
Tonquin Tonka bean 1 Ib ..8pta.
Orris Orris-root 1 pts 8 pts.
Alkanet— red col.-Alkanet % oz 1 qt.
Turmeric— yellow.Turmeric % oz 1 qt.
43. To Prepare Emulsions. These
are milky liquids, formed by the mechanical
admixture of oil, balsam, or resin, with water,
by means of some other substance that
possesses the property of combining with
both. There are numerous preparations of
the kind in pharmacy and medicine, which,
m the later pharmacopoeias, have received
the name of "mixtures." There are also
several emulsions employed as cosmetics,
either alone, or as vehicles for other ingre-
dients. The common name of emulsions is
"milk," but the term is often incorrectly
extended to opaque white liquids of an en-
tirely distinct character.
The successful preparation of emulsions is
a matter requiring some little skill and care.
In some instances, as with the almond, the
two substances necessary to produce a perfect
emulsion are presented by nature, ready to
our hand, in the same vegetable production ;
nothing more is necessary than to reduce it with
the pestle, and triturate it with water, gradu-
ally added. In other cases, and which are
far the more numerous, we have to operate
on oily or resinous ingredients in their com-
mon form. These we are enabled to suspend
in water, or mechanically combine with it, by
the intervention of thick mucilage, almonds,
or yolk of egg. It is found that 1 drachm
(60 grs.) of the first — made with equal parts
of good gum-arabic and water (powdered
gum is sometimes used instead of mucilage) —
1 ounce of the second, (usually about 26 in
number), and one of the last, will form 2
drachms of oil or resinous matter into an
emulsion with about 1 fluid ounce of
water, gradually added ; and such an emul-
sion, if properly made, will then, in most in-
stances, bear further dilution with water.
(The yolk of an ordinary-sized hen's egg is re-
ferred to. It should be remembered, that
emulsions formed with yolk of egg will not
keep long, owing to the putrescible nature
of the latter.) Of these, mucilage is the
medium most commonly employed. Ac-
cording to Montgomery, for conversion into
permanent emulsions, " oils require about
three-fourths their weight ; balsams and
spermaceti, equal parts; resins, twice their
weight; and musk and ambergris 5 times
its weight." In some cases instead of the
above substances, a little liquor of potassa
is employed, when a saponaceous emulsion
is formed, which differs considerably in its
properties from an emulsion of the same
ingredients produced by means of a bland
meJium.
In making an emulsion, the gum, or other
medium employed, should be first put into
the mortar, and rendered thoroughly homo-
geneous with the pestle. If almonds are
used, they should be treated as noticed under
PREPARATIONS.
" almond-paste " (see No. 1123), a few drops
of water being added to prevent "oiling," and
to reduce them to a smooth, soft paste. The
oil or resinous matter may then be gradually
added and rubbed in, carefully observing not
to add it more quickly than it can be subdued
by the pestle ; and if, during this part of the
manipulation, the mixture should begin to
exhibit a "breaking" or "curdling" appearance
at the edges, a few drops of water must be
immediately incorporated with it, before add-
ing the remainder of the oil. If this be not
done, the emulsive mixture in the mortar
will, in general, suddenly lose its tenacious
consistence, and the process will fail. After
the whole of the oil, balsam, or resinous
matter is thoroughly incorporated, the water
or other aqueous vehicle intended to form the
bulk of the emulsion, should be added gradu-
ally and with care, each portion being per-
fectly blended with the liquid mass in the
mortar, by patient trituration, before adding
the next. If any alcoholic liquid is employed,
it should bo added at the very end of the pro-
cess, and then only very gradually, as other-
wise it will cause the separation of the in-
gredients.
It must be observed that soluble salts,
spirit, acids, and astringents, are, as a rule,
incompatible with the emulsive form. If
saline matter must be introduced, it should
only be added in a very minute quantity, and
in the state of solution, to the ready-formed
emulsion; and in this case emulsion of al-
monds is the most suitable vehicle. (See No.
1125.) Spirits and acids act by precipitating
the mucilaginous matter, or yolk. Even the
addition of a very little lemon juice, or of a
portion of slightly acescent syrup, will often
entirely destroy an emulsion. This inevitably
occurs with emulsions made with liquor of
potassa, or other alkaline medium, owing to
the absolute incompatibility of acids and
alkalies in the same liquid.
It is found that volatile oils are more readily
made into emulsions if mixed with an equal
volume of some simple fixed oil, as that of
the almond or olive, before proceeding to
operate on them.
All emulsions should be well shaken before
use. ( Coolcij. )
44. To Prepare Extracts. The pro-
cess of obtaining an extract of a substance
involves two distinct operations: First, the
production of a solution of the soluble por-
tion of the substance operated on; and next,
the reduction of this solution to a proper
consistence by evaporation. The substance
is first, where practicable, reduced to coarse
powder by bruising, or sliced with a knife, so
that every portion may be fully exposed to
the action of the solvent. Refractory substan-
ces are first softened by the solvent and then
sliced. Other substances whose nature does
not require reducing, aro used without prepa-
ration.
Different fluids are used for solvents, as
best adapted to the solubility of the substance
under treatment. Some bodies, such as fresh
vegetables, yield their juice by expression
alone. In the preparation of aqueo us extracts,
the ingredients are treated with rain or dis-
tilled water, until all the soluble matter that
is desired to obtain from them is dissolved
21
This is effected by either maceration, percola-
tion, infusion, or decoction, as circumstances
require: the solution thus obtained is poured
off and the remaining soluble matter either
)ressed or washed out, and added to the solu-
ion; it is next allowed time to settle, then
decanted, and strained or filtered; and if this
Mis to render the liquid clear, it is clarified
jy white of egg, and filtered; Canton flannel,
first soaked in water, being generally em-
ployed for this purpose. "When water acid-
ilated with acetic acid is employed, vegetable
substances are usually macerated in it in the
2old, or the dilute acid is sprinkled over tho
cruised plant, if fresh, and the juice expressed
jy strong pressure.
When the principles to be extracted are in-
soluble, or only slightly soluble, in water,
alcohol is employed, either in the form of rec-
tified spirit, proof spirit, or diluted. These
produce alcoholic or spirituous extracts; and
ire generally obtained by either macera tion or
digestion.
Ether is well adapted for obtaining extracts
from bodies whose principles consist of vola-
tile oils or resin, on account of its strong
affinity for those substances. Such are
termed ethereal extracts. In nearly all cases,
filtration is necessary to insure a pure extract.
The means usually employed for evapora-
ting an aqueous solution, are rapid boiling
over a fire until the extract is thick enough
to offer some risk of burning, and the evapo-
ration finished over a water bath or in shal-
low vessels at a moderate heat, the further
escape of vapor being promoted by continu-
ous stirring with a wooden spoon or stick. It
is not always advisable to heat a solution to
the boiling point, but if boiling is resorted to,
it cannot be done too rapidly, as the heat can-
not rise above its boiling point, and rapid
ebullition hastens evaporation. The fluid must
never be stirred while ebullition is going on.
Two fundamental rules are: — to conduct
evaporation at as low a temperature as is
consistent with other objects; and, — to ex-
clude atmospheric air; or, at least, to expose
the liquid to its action for as short a time as
possible, as most solutions lose more or less
of their active principles by heat and exposure.
Solutions which will not bear boiling without
loss of strength are evaporated in a vacuum,
either in a closed still, or under the receiver
of an air pump, in which a vessel is placed
containing strong sulphuric acid; this has a
powerful affinity for water and absorbs its va-
por as quickly as it comes in contact with it.
A good plan for evaporation, though slow,
is to place the liquid in a broad shallow vessel,
exposed in a stove or drying room to a tem-
perature of about 100° Fahr., allowing free ac-
cess for tho air. The extracts thus evaporated
are said to be lighter in color and more trans-
parent than by most other ways.
The method for evaporating an alcoholic or
an ethereal solution is substantially the same
as that pursued with an aqueous solution; ex-
cept that, as a matter of economy, the vapor
may be led off' and condensed again.
A good extract should be free from grit, and
wholly soluble in 20 parts of the solvent used
for making the extract, forming a nearly clear
solution; it should be of a proper consistence
and of uniform texture and color, smooth and
SPECIFIC GRAVITY.
glossy in appearance; this latter can only be
arrived at by assiduous and laborious stirring
as the extract thickens; and may be promoted j
by adding 3 or 4 per cent, each of olive oil
and gum arable, with 1 or 2 per cent, of spirit
of wine. Extracts should be put into pots as
Boon as made, securely tied down with blad-
der, and kept in a dry place. Any tendency
to become mouldy may be prevented by add-
ing, the last thing before removing from
the evaporating pan, a few drops of oil of
cloves, or a still less quantity of creosote, dis-
solved in a little alcohol; or by moistening
with oil of cloves or creosote, the inside of the
bladder used for covering the pots.
45. To obtain Vegetable Juices by
Expression. The juices of plants are ob-
tained by bruising the fresh leaves in a mar-
ble mortar, or in a mill, and expressing the
juice which, after defecation for some hours
in a cool situation, is either filtered through
paper, or strained after coagulating its albu-
ninous matter by heat. Some plants require
the addition of | its quantity of water before
pressing. The expression of the juice of lem-
ons, oranges, quinces, &c., is facilitated by
previously mixing the pulp with clean chop-
ped straw. Mulberries, &c., after being
crushed between the hands, are left 3 or 4
days to undergo a slight fermentation, before
pressing. A very powerful screw press is re-
quired for this purpose. The PRESERVATION
of the juices of the narcotic plants, and some
other vegetables, has lately assumed consid-
erable interest, from these preparations having
been proposed as substitutes for the common
tinctures. It appears that the juice of young
plants just coming into flower, yields only |
the amount of extract which may be obtained
from the same quantity of juice expressed
from the matured plant, or when the flowers
are fully blown; and the strength of the pro-
duct is also inferior. The leaves alone shoulc
be preferably employed, and should be exclu-
sively of the second year's growth, when th~
plants are biennials.
Bruise the leaves in a marble mortar (on
the large scale, in a mill), and submit them
to the action of a powerful press; allow th(
juice to remain for 21 hours in a cold place
then decant the clear portion, add £ part b;
measure of spirit (90 per cent.), agitate, an(
in 24 hours again decant the clear, and filte
it through paper. Keeps well under ordinarj
circumstances.
The method directed by the Paris Codex i
as follows: to the fresh leaves, bruised in
marble mortar, is added an equal weight €
rectified spirit, and after maceration for 1
days, the whole is pressed, and the resultin
tincture filtered.
The commencing dose of the narcotic juice
is about 5 drops. In the above manner ar
prepared the preserved juices of aconite, be
ladonna, colchicum (conns), hemlock, hci
"bane, foxglove, lactuca virosa, taraxacum, &(
46. To Extract Essential Oil from
Wood, Barks, Boots, Herbs etc. Tak
balm, mint, sage, or any other herb, <fec., pi
into a bottle, and pour upon it a spoonful <
ether; keep in a cool place a few hours, an
then fill the bottle with cold water; the e
sential oil will swim on the surface, and ma
be easily separated.
O pecifiC Gravity is the density
k»^ of the matter of which any body is com-
posed, compared with the density of another
>dy, assumed as the standard, or 1.000.
his standard is pure distilled water for
quids and solids, and atmospheric air for
aseous bodies and vapors. In the United
tates and England the specific gravity, unless
'hen otherwise expressed, is always taken at
0° F.; but in Prance at 32°, or the tempera-
ire of melting ice. In most cases, however,
is sufficient merely to note the temperature,
nd to apply a correction, depending on the
nown density of water or air, at the different
egrees of the thermometric scale.
The above plan has been adopted, because
he weight of an equal btdk of different sub-
tances varies greatly. Thus, as gold is 19
nd silver 10 times heavier than water, those
umbers, 19 and 10, are said to represent the
pecific gravity of gold and silver. The
eaviest of all known substances is the very
lard metal used for making points to the so-
ailed diamond gold pens. . It is called iri-
ium ; its specific gravity is 23. Next comes
latinum, 21 ; gold, 19 ; mercury, 13.5 ; lead,
1.3; silver, 10; copper, 8; iron,?; zinc, 6;
ifferent kinds of stones, from 4 to 1 ; alumi-
mm, 2.5. Flax and all woody fibres have a
pecific gravity of 1.4, and are thus heavier
han water, but wood will float or sink ac-
,ording to the number of its pores into which
he water does not penetrate. So ebony and
many kinds of hard wood sink, pine and all
kinds of soft wood float. Cork is the lightest
wood, its specific gravity being only 0.24, less
than one-quarter that of water. Alcohol is
about three-quarters the weight of water, and
as the strength of liquor depends on the
amount of alcohol it contains, this strength is
simply found out by its specific gravity indi-
cated by the more or less floating of a littb in-
strument called a hydrometer, the weaker
iquid being little lighter than water has the
strongest buoyant power; solutions of dif-
ferent salts, sugar, etc., being heavier than
water, have a stronger buoyant power ; ves-
sels therefore will draw less water in the sea
than in fresh water, and it is more difficult to
swim' in the latter than in the sea. The
lightest of all liquids has a specific gravity of
0.6 ; it is called chimogene, and is made from
petroleum; it is exceedingly volatile and
combustible; in fact, it is a liquefied gas.
Carbonic acid gas or choke damp is about 500
times lighter than water; common air, 800;
street gas about 2,000, and pure hydrogen,
the lightest of all substances, 12,000 times.
The heaviest substance has thus 23x12,000
or more than a quarter of a million times
more weight than an equal bulk of the light-
est ; and the substance of which comets con-
sist, has by astronomers been proved to be
even several thousand times lighter than
hydrogen gas.
48. To find the Specific Gravity of a
Substance heavier or lighter than Wa-
ter. In order to ascertain the specific gravity
of a body heavier than water, the following
method is adopted. First weigh it in air, then
weigh it immersed in water. The difference
between these two weights will be its loss of
weight in water, or, in other words, the weight
of the water displaced. Then divide the weight
ALCOHOLMETRY.
in air by its loss in water, and the result is
the specific gravity.
Thus, suppose a substance weighs,
12 pounds in air,
and 10 pounds in water.
Ite loss is 2 pounds in water.
Divide 12 (weight in air) by 2 (loss in
water), and the result isits specific gravity, 6. —
That is, the substance is, bulk for bulk, 6
times as heavy as water.
If the substance will not sink in water,
then weight must be added to make it just
sink below the surface. This extra weight,
added to the weight in air, show its loss in
water. Thus, if a substance weighs 8 pounds
in air, but requires 2 pounds to be added to
submerge it in water, its loss of weight in
water is 2 added to 8=10 pounds.
Proceeding as before, we divide its weight
in air, 8, by its loss in water, 10 and we have
it specific gravity -&=.8.
49. To find the Specific Gravity of a
Liquid or a Gas. Weigh it in a specific
fravity bottle, glass flask, or other vessel of
nown capacity ; and dividing that weight by
the weight of the same bulk of water, the
quotient is, as before, the specific gravity.
50. To find the Specific Gravity of a
Solid Body Soluble in Water. Take its
specific gravity in regard to some liquid which
does not dissolve it, and multiply by the
specific gravity of the liquid. Thus, a piece
of sugar, whose weight is 400 grains, is found
to lose 217.5 grains if weighed when im-
mersed in oil of turpentine ; this would make
its specific gravity, as compared with oil of
turpentine, •2Ji°rQ3=l-84. The specific gravity
of the turpentine is .87; then, 1. 84 X. 87 =1.6,
the real specific gravity of the sugar.
51. To find the Specific Gravity of a
Body in Powder Insoluble in Water.
Introduce it into a bottle whose capacity is
known ; fill the bottle with pure water at 60°.
It will hold as much less water as is equal to
the bulk of the powder, and the weight of the
powder in air divided by this difference will
give the specific gravity. Thus, supposing
the bottle to hold 1000 grains of water, 100
grains of emery are introduced, and the bottle
filled up with water. If no water were dis-
placed the two should weigh 1100 grains; they
really weigh 1070 ; the difference, 30 grains, is
the weight of water displaced; 100-^-30=3.333,
specific gravity of the emery.
52. To Determine the Weight of a
Body from its Specific Gravity. A cubic
foot of water weighs 1000 ounces ; hence, to
determine the weight of a given bulk of any
body the specific gravity of which is known,
multiply the cubic content in feet by 1000,
and this by the specific gravity, and the pro-
duct will be the weight in ounces avoirdupois.
Thepercent-
age of absolute alcohol in any spi-
rituous liquid may be given either by vol-
ume or weight, but as liquors are sold by
measure, not weight, it is generally preferred
to know the percentage by volume. The
per cent, of weight remains the same in all
temperatures, but the per cent, by volume
varies with the temperature or heat of the
liquid. Many instruments have been intro-
duced to determine the quantity of absolute
alcohol contained in any spirituous liquors,
and these are known as hydrometers, or alco-
holmeters. Hydrometers made by different
inventors have come into use in different
countries; thus the hydrometer made by
Tralles has been adopted by the governments
of the United States and Prussia ; that made
by Gay Lussac has been legally sanctioned in
Prance and Sweden ; while that invented by
Sikes has been approved and made the excise
standard in Great Britain.
54. Tralles' Hydrometer. Tralles' hy-
drometer is the instrument used by our
government to ascertain the strength of im-
ported liquors, and is made of glass. Tralles
has adopted as the standard of comparison
pure or absolute alcohol in volume at the
temperature of 60° Fah., the strength of which
he expresses by a scale divided into 100 de-
grees or parts, each of which represents yj^j
part of alcohol. When floated in any spirituous
liquor at a temperature of 60° Fah., it im-
mediately indicates the strength. For in-
stance, if in a brandy at that temperature it
sinks to 65, it shows that 65 parts of the
liquor is absolute alcohol, and 35 parts water;
should it sink to 90, it indicates that the
liquor is 90 parts or per cent, strong, and so on.
An increase of heat causes liquids to ex-
pand in volume, and a decrease produces con-
traction ; therefore spirits over the normal
temperature of 60° Fah. appear stronger than
they really are, and below 60° they are really
stronger than they appear to be.
It is therefore evident that the degrees of
percentage of this hydrometer are only cor-
rect when the spirit under trial has the nor-
mal temperature of 60° Fah. "When the
temperature varies from 60°, the percentage
can only be ascertained by a long and tedious
calculation. To avoid this Mr. Tralles has
constructed a simple table by which the real
percentage of alcohol is found in liquids of
different temperatures from the results ex-
hibited by the instrument. (See No. 55.)
The horizontal line at the top shows the
various temperatures given by the thermome-
ter ; the column of figures under 60° shows
the true percentage of strength at the normal
or standard temperature of 60° ; the figures
under the other degrees of temperature show
the observed or apparent degrees of strength
as indicated by the hydrometers.
As an example of the simple manner by
which this table may be used, we will suppose
that the temperature of the spirits to be tested
is at 75°, Fah., and that the hydrometer sinks
to 53° on the scale ; this would be the observed
or apparent degree or percentage of strength.
jSTow to find the real percentage of strength
at 60°, we turn to the table and find the up-
right or vertical column of figures headed
75°, we then run down the figures until we
arrive at 53.0 ; having ascertained this, we
then trace the horizontal line to the left or
right to the outside column headed 60°, and
at the point when the horizontal line running
from 53.0 meets the column headed 60°, will
be found the number 50. We thus ascertain
that a spirit at 75° having an observed strength
of 53 has only a real percentage of 50 at the
24:
ALCOHOLMETR T.
normal or established temperature of CO0.
Suppose that another sample of brandy, in-
stead of being at 75° is at 50°, and the instru-
ment still sinks to 53. In the same way we
select the column headed 50°, and run down
the figures until we find 53.0, then by tracing
the horizontal line until we arrive at the out-
eide column headed 60° (either the first or
last column), we find the number 55, which is
the true percentage of the brandy at 60° Fah.
Again, if an alcoholic liquid at a tempera-
ture of 30° be found to contain 23.5 per cent,
by volume, by reference to the table 30 will
be found to express its actual strength at 60°
Pah.
"We might multiply examples, but the above
are sufficient to show the manner by which
the table may be worked.
65. Table to find the true percentage of Absolute Alcohol by volume in a liquid
at 60° from tJie observed percentage indicated by a Glass Hydrometer at any oilier
temperature.
60°
30°
35°
40°
45°
50°
55C
65°
70°
75°
80°
85°
60°
0
—0.2
—0.4
—0.4
—0.5
—0.4
—0.2
+0.2
+0.6
+1.0
+1.4
+1.9
0
5
+4.6
+4.5
+4.5
+4.5
+4.6
+4.8
5.3
5.8
6.2
6.7
7.3
5
10
9.1
9.0
9.1
9.2
9.3
9.7
10.4
11.0
11.6
12.3
13.0
10
•15
13.0
13.1
13.3
13.5
13.9
14.5
15.6
16.3
17.1
18.0
19.0
15
20
16.5
16.9
17.4
17-8
18.5
19.2
20.8
21.8
22.8
23.8
24.9
20
25
19.9
20.6
21.4
22.2
23.0
24.1
25.9
27.0
28.2
29.4
30.5
25
30
23.5
24.5
25.7
26.6
27.7
28.8
31.1
32.2
33.4
34.5
35.7
30
35
28.0
29.2
30.4
31.6
32.7
33.8
36.2
37.3
38.4
39.5
40.6
35
40
33.0
34.2
35.4
36.7
37.8
39.0
41.1
42.2
43.3
44.3
45.4
40
45
38.4
39.6
40.7
41.8
42.9
43.9
46.1
47.1
48.2
49.2
50.3
45
50
43.7
44.7
45.8
46.9
47.9
49.0
51.0
52.0
53.0
54.0
55.1
50
55
49.0
50.0
51.0
52.0
53.0
54.0
54.9
56.9
57.9
58.9
59.9
55
60
54.2
55.2
56.2
57.1
58.1
59.0
60.9
61.9
62.9
63.8
64.9
60
65
59.4
60.3
61.2
62.2
63.1
64.0
65.9
66.8
67.7
68.6
69.6
65
70
64.6
65.5
66.4
67.3
68.2
69.1
70.8
71.7
72.6
73.5
74.5
70
75
69.8
70.7
71.5
72.4
73.3
74.2
75.8
76.7
77.6
78.4
79.3
75
80
75.0
75.8
76.6
77.5
78.4
79.2
80.8
81.7
82.4
83.2
84.1
80
85
80.3
81.1
81.8
82-6
83.5
84.3
85.7
86.5
87.3
88.0
88.8
85
90
85.6
86.4
87.1
87.9
88.6
89.3
90.7
91.4
92.0
92.7
93.4
90
The following table gives the richness or
the per cent, of alcohol by volume, in reference
to the volume of the liquid at the temperature
when tested ; it therefore requires ' that the
liquor should be tested exactly at the came
temperature at which it was measured.
66. Table to find the true percentage of Absolute Alcohol in a liquid of any
temperature from the observed percentage indicated by the Glass Hydrometer at the
same temperature.
True per ct.
of Alcohol
by Volume.
Observed per cent indicated by the Glass Hydrometer.
30°
35°
40°
45°
50°
55°
65°
70°
75°
80°
85°
0
—0.2
—0.4
—0.4
—0.5
—0.4
—0.2
+0.2
+0.6
+1.0
+1.4
+1.9
5
+4.6
+4.5
+4.5
+4.5
+4.6
+4.8
5.3
5.8
6.2
6.7
7.3
10
9.1
9.0
9.1
9.2
9.3
9.7
10.4
11.0
11.6
12.3
13.0
15
13.0
13.1
13.3
13.6
14.1
14.5
15.6
16.3
17.1
18.0
19.0
20
16.5
16.9
17.4
17.9
18.5
19.2
20.8
21.8
22.9
23.9
25.0
25
19.8
20.5
21.3
22.2
23.0
24.1
25.9
27.1
28.3
29.5
30.7
30
23.3
24.3
25.5
26.5
27.6
28.8
31.2
32.3
33.5
34.6
35.9
35
27.7
28.9
30.2
31.4
32.6
33.8
36.3
37.5
38.6
39.7
40.9
40
32.5
33.8
35.1
36.5
37.7
38.9
•41.2
42.4
43.5
44.6
45.8
45
37.8
39.1
40.3
41.5
42.7
43.8
46.2
47.3
48.5
49.6
50.8
50
43.1
44.2
45.4
46.6
47.7
48.9
51.1
52.2
53.4
54.5
55.6
55
48.3
49.4
50.5
51.6
52.8
53.9
56.1
57.2
58.3
59.4
60.5
60
53.4
54.5
55.6
56.7
57.8
58.9
61.1
62.2
63.3
64.4
65.5
65
58.4
59.5
60.6
61.7
62.8
63.9
66.0
67.1
68.2
69.3
70.4
70
63.5
64.6
65.7
66.8
67.9
69.0
71.0
72.1
73.2
74.3
75.4
75
68.6
69.7
70.7
71.8
72-9
74.0
76.0
77.1
78.2
79.2
80.3
80
73.7
74.8
75.8
76.9
78.0
79.0
81.0
82.1
83.1
84.1
85.2
85
78.8
79.8
80.9
81.9
83.0
84.0
86.0
87.0
88.0
89.0
90.0
90
84.0
85.1
86.1
87.1
88.1
89.1
91.0
91.9
92.8
93.7 j 94.6
ALCOHOLMETRY.
Thus, if the Hydrometer indicated 59.4 per j
cent, in a liquid at 80° Fah., the table in No.
57 would give its true percentage (richness)
to 55 per cent.; that is, 100 volumes of the
liquid at 80° contains 55 volumes of alcohol.
Tralles' Hydrometer gives the per cent, by
volume only. If it be desired to know the
per cent, by weight, it may be ascertained
from the percentage in volume of the liquid
at 60° Fah. by table in No. 57.
57. Table of Comparison between the
per cent, of Alcohol by volume at 60° (Trailed)
and per cent, by weight.
Pe
by
Vol
rCent.
by
Weight.
ft
h»
Vol
r Cent,
by
Weight.
Per
by
Weight.
Cunt,
by
Volume.
Per
by
Weight.
Sent,
by
Volume.
0
0.
55
47.29
0
0.
55
63.97
5
4.00
GO
52.20
5
6.25
60
68.97
10
8.05
65
57.25
10
12.42
65
73.79
15
12.15
70
62.51
15
18.52
70
78.40
20
16.28
75
67.93
20
24.57
75
82.80
25
20.46
80
73.59
25
30.55
80
86.97
30
24.69
85 79.50
30
36.45
85
90.88
35
28.99
90i 85.75
35
42.25
90
94.46
40
33.39
95
92.40
40>
47.92
95
97.61
45
37.90
100100.00
45
53.43
100
100.00
50
42.52
50
58,79
58. Gendar's Hydrometer. Annexed
we give a comparative view of the scales of
Tralles and Gendar, the former used by the
revenue officers of the United States for im-
ported liquors, and indicating the per cent,
by volume of alcohol in spirituous liquors,
and the latter used throughout the whole
country for domestic liquors, determining the
percent, above and below proof.
This is inserted for the convenient compar-
ison of the American standards. Tables of
other areometers reduced to specific gravity
will be found in Nos. (i!55, &c.
The first column of the table exhibits the
specific gravities at 60° Fah., for. mixtures of
pure alcohol and water ; — taking water at the
temperature of its greatest density, about
39.5° Fah., as 1.0000, and, therefore, having
at 60° Fah. a specific gravity of 0.9991. Of
the above mixtures, each 100 gallons or mea-
sures contain the number of gallons or mea-
sures of alcohol indicated in the second col-
umn (Tralles' hydrometer scale) if measured
atGO° Fah.
In the Tralles' hydrometer scale there is no
reference to proof of any denomination ; and
in that of Gendar's there is but one proof,
marked P. on the hydrometer; the others,
such as 2d, 3d and 4th proofs, were, at all
times, incorrect and deceptive. The National
Tax Law, of August 1st, 1862, says that " the
term proof shall be construed, and is hereby
declared to mean that proof of a liquor which
corresponds to 50 degrees of Tralles' hydrom-
eter at the temperature of GO degrees Fah."
Proof spirit is, therefore, by law, of the alco-
holic strength of 50 per cent, by volume, hav-
ing a specific gravity of 0.9335, or a mixture
of equal quantities of absolute alcohol at the
specific gravity of 0.793, and distilled water
at 60° Fah. In other words, proof spirit is
one-half pure water and half absolute alco-
hol.
To ascertain what strength any liquor above
proof by the Gendar hydrometer would be by
the Tralles hydrometer, add 100 to the given
proof if above proof, or deduct, if below proof,
from 100 on the Gendar scale, and divide
I HH tdorkyS. Sayaliquorisat
§g!40 above P. on the
! Gendar scale.you then
add 100, making 140,
and divide by2, which
will show 70 on the
Tralles' scale. If below
P. deduct the proof
from 100 and divide
the remainder by 2.
Say a liquor is 35* be-
low P., consequently
you have a remainder
of 65, and divide the
65 by 2, which will
show 32i on Tralles'
scale. Having ascer-
tained the degree of
strength of any liquor
by volume on Tralles'
scale above £0 (which
is proof), multiply the
degrees by 2, and cut
off the two right hand
figures, and it will
show the degrees
above proof on Gen-
dar's scale. Thus we
will suppose the spirit
to show 70 per cent,
strength on Tralles'
scale. "We therefore
multiply 70 by 2,
which gives us 140;
we no w cut off the two
right hand figures,
thus, 1.40, and find
that the liquor is 40
above proof on Gen-
dar's scale.
uor
Tralles'
scale (which is below
proof). To find what
degree it is below on
Gendar's scale, multi-
ply the degrees on
Tralles' scale by 2 and
add a number suffi-
cient to make 100; the
number required to be
added will show the
degree below proof.
59. Tralles' Table
of Percentage of
Alcohol. "When the temperature of tho
spirit is 60° Fah., the first column of tho
table on page 26 gives at once the percent-
age of alcohol by measure; when the tem-
perature is below 60° an addition must be
made of 1 measure per cent, for every 5
degrees of the thermometer ; and when aboyo
GO0 a like quantity must be deducted. This
correction will amount to the fraction £ or
the decimal 2 for every single degree, and is
very easily made. If the specific gravity
sought cannot be found exactly in the table,
the difference between it and the next greater
specific gravity in tho table must be taken,
which will give tho numerator of a fraction,
having for its denominator the number found
in the third column against the next greater
number just employ^. This fraction, added
to the percentage of alcohol in the first
p 0 >
*•&
3$
0.7939
8157
8332
8488
8631
8765
8892
9013
9126
9234
9335
9427
9510
9583
9646
9700
9751
9802
9857
9919
0.9991
R:£
Is-
II
H T.
• CO
95 —
—
~~ 90
- 80
~ 70
— 60
85 -
80 —
75 -
70 —
- 50
— 40
60 -
- 20
—
55 —
—
- 10
— '
50—'
=3
- P
z=
45 —
=^,
- 10
—
35 -
30— '
25 —
20 —
—
- 30
- 40
- 50
-
- 60
—
~
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
— 1
—
—
—
=
10 —
=
- 80
—
o J
— '
- 100
zzz
Or suppose a liqu
isbelow£0 on Trail
ALCOHOLMETRT.
column of the table against the said specific
gravity, -will give the true percentage sought.
Thus, if*the specific gravity of a spirituous
liquor is .9605, what is its alcoholic content ?
Here .9605 is not in the table, but the next
greater number is .9609; the former must
therefore be deducted from the latter, and the
difference (4) put as the numerator of the
fraction, having for its denominator the num-
ber (13) in the column of differences against
.9609. The fraction -^ so found, added to
the percentage against .9609 in the first
column, gives 33-j% as the true percentage of
alcohol in the given sample
Tralles' Table exhibiting the percentage, by volume, of Alcohol, corresponding to any given
specific gravity.
Alcohol in
100
Measures
of Spirit.
Specific
Gravity at
60° F.
Difference
of
Specific
Gravity.
Alcohol in
100
Measures
of Spirit.
Specific
Gravity at
60° F.
Difference
of
Specific
Gravity.
Alcohol in
100
Measures
of Spirit.
Specific
Gravity at
60° F.
Difference
of
Specific
Gravity.
Pure water
.9919
00
34
.9596
13
68
.8941
24
1
.9976
15
35
.9583
13
69
.8917
24
2
.9961
15
36
.9570
13
70
.8892
25
3
.9947
14
37
.9556
14
71
.8867
25
4
.9933
14
38
.9541
15
72
.8842
25
5
.9919
14
39
-9526
15
73
.8817
25
6
.9906
13
40
.9510
16
74
.8791
26
7
.9893
13
41
.9494
16
75
.8765
26
8
.9881
12
42
-9478
16
76
.8739
26
9
.9869
12
43
.9461
17
77
.8712
27
10
.9857
12
44
-9444
17
78
.8685
27
11
-9845
12
45
.9427
17
79
.8658
27
12
.9834
11
46
.9409
18
80
.8631
27
13
.9823
11
47
-9391
18
81
.8603
28
14
.9812
11
48
-9373
18
82
.8575
28
15
.9802
10
49
-9354
19
83
.8547
28
16
.9791
11
50
.9335
19
84
.8518
29
17
.9781
10
51
-9315
20
85
.8488
30
18
.9771
10
52
-9295
20
86
.8458
£0
19
.9761
10
53
-9275
20
87
.8428
30
20
.9751
10
54
.9254
21
88
.8397
31
21
.9741
10
55
-9234
20
89
.8365
32
22
.9731
10
56
-9213
21
90
.8332
33
23
.9720
11
57
-9192
21
91
.8299
33
24
.9710
10
58
.9170
22
92
.8265
34
25
.9700
10
59
-9148
22
93
.8230
35
26
.9689
11
60
.9126
22
94
.8194
36
27
.9679
10
61
.9104
22
95
.8157
37
28
.9668
11
62
.9082
22
96
.8118
39
29
.9657
11
63
-9059
23
97
.8077
41
30
.9646
11
64
.9036
23
98
.8034
43
31
.9634
12
65
.9013
23
99
.7988
46
32
33
.9622
.9609
12
13
66
67
.8989
.8965
24
24
Pure )
Alcohol (
.7939
49
60. Table for reducing the strength.
of Alcohol. The following Table given by
Booth, shows the quantity of water that must
be added to alcohol of a given strength, in order
to produce an alcohol of inferior strength.
The upper horizontal column contains the
percentage of strength of the stronger alco-
hol to be diluted; the vertical columns
below, denote the volumes of water which
must be added to 100 volumes of it, in order
to produce a spirit of the strength indicated
in the left hand column.
Desired
strength in
per cent.
90
85
80
75
70
65
60
55-
50
85
6.56
80
13.79
6.83
75
21.89
14.48
7.20
70
31.05
23.14
15.35
7.64
65
41.53
33.03
24.66
16.37
8.15
60
53.65
44.48
35.44
26.47
17.58
8.56
55
67.87
57.90
48.07
38.32
28.63
19.02
9.47
50
84.71
73.90
63.04
52.43
41.73
31.25
20.47
10.35
45
105.34
93.30
81.38
69.54
57.78
46.09
34.46
22.90
11.41
40
130.80
117.34
104.01
90.76
77.58
64.48
51.43
38.46
25.55
35
163.28
148.01
132.88
117.82
102.84
87.93
73.08
58.31
43.59
30
203.22
188.57
171.05
153.61
136.04
118.94
101.71
84.54
67.45
25
266.12
245-15
224.30
203.53
182.83
162.21
141.65
121.16
100.73
20
355.80
329.84
304.01
278.26
252.58
226.98
201.43
175.96
1C0.55
15
505.27
471.
436.85
402.81
368.83
334.91
301.07
267.29
233.64
10
804.54
753.65
702.89
752.21
601.60
551.06
500.59
450.19
399.85
ALCOHOLMETR Y.
Illustration. If we have alcohol of 70 per
cent, strength, and desire to reduce its
strength to 40 per cent. — we look for 40 in
the left-hand column, and the figures on a
line with it in the column headed 70, we find
to be 77.58. This shows that we must add
77.58, or a trifle over 77-J- gallons of water to
100 gallons of our 70 per cent, alcohol, to pro-
duce a spirit of 40 per cent, strength.
61 . Baume's Hydrometer for Liquids
Lighter than Water. In Baume's hydrom-
eter for liquids lighter than water, the instru-
ment is poised, so that the 0 of the scale is at
the bottom of the stem, when it is floating in a
solution of 1 ounce common salt in 9 ounces wa-
ter, and the depth to which it sinks in distilled
water shows the 10th degree; the space be-
tween these fixed points being equally divided.
62. Table showing the Specific Grav-
ity corresponding with the several degrees of
materials. This variety of Baum6's hydrom-
eter is usually called a saccharomater, and
whenplungedin pure water at58° Fahr., marks
0 upon its scale; in a solution containing 15
per cent, of common salt and 85 of water by
weight, it marks 15°; so that each degree on
the scale is meant to indicate a density cor-
responding to the percentage of the salt.
The temperature at which Baume's hydrom-
eter was originally adjusted was 54£° Fahr.;
it is now commonly adjusted to 58° or 60°
Fahr.; hence arise the discrepancies observa-
ble in the published tables of the "correspond-
ence between degrees of Baume's and real
specific gravities."
65. Table showing the Specific Grav-
ity corresponding with the several degrees of
Baume's Hydrometer for liquids heavier than
ivater.
Baume's Hydrometer for liquids lighter than
Degrees of
Specific
Degrees of
Specific
water.
Baume.
Gravity.
Baume.
Gravity.
Degrees
Specific
Degrees Specific
0
1000
39
1372
Baume
Gravity.
Baume j Gravity.
1
1007
40
1384
60°
.745
34°
.859
2
3
1014
1022
41
42
1398
1412
59
.749
33
.864
4
1029
43
1426
58
.753
32
.869
5
1036
44
1440
57
.757
31
.874
6
1044
45
1454
56
.760
30
.880
7
1052
46
1470
55
.764
29
.885
8
1060
47
1485
54
.768
28
.890
9
1067
48
1501
53
.773
27
.896
10
1075
49
1516
52
.777
26
.901
11
1083
50
1532
51
.781
25
.907
12
1091
51
1549
50
.785
24
.913
13
1100
52
1566
49
.789
23
-918
14
1108
53
1583
48
.794
22
.924
15
1116
54
1601
47
.798
21
.930
16
1125
55
1618
46
.802
20
.936
17
1134
56
1637
45
.807
19
.942
18
1143
57
1656
44
.811
18
.948
19
1152
58
1676
43
.816
17
.954
20
1161
59
1695
42
.820
16
.960
21
1171
60
1715
41
.825
15
.967
22
1180
61
1736
40
.830
14
.973
23
1190
62
1758
39
.834
13
.980
24
1199
63
1779
38
.839
12
.986
25
1210
64
1801
37
.844
11
.993
26
1221
65
1823
36
.849
10
1.000
27
1231
66
1847
35
.854
28
1242
67
1872
63. Baume's Hydrometer for Liquids
Heavier than Water. In the hydrometer
for liquids heavier than water, the position of
the fixed points is reversed; for the 0 is at
29
30
31
32
1252
1261
1275
1286
68
69
70
71
1897
1921
1946
1974
the top of the stem, and denotes the level to
which the hydrometer sinks in distilled water:
the 10th degree is lower down, and shows the
level to which it sinks in the saline solution,
and the graduation is continued downwards.
33
34
35
36
37
1298
1309
1321
1334
1346
72
73
74
75
76
2002
2031
2059
2087
2116
64. Baume's Areometer, or Sacchar-
38
1359
ometer for Liquids Heavier than Water.
This instrument is generally in use in this
66. To Convert Degrees Baume into
country and iu France, when it is necessary
to ascertain the strength or density of a li-
Specific Gravity. I. For liquids heavier
than water. — Subtract the degree of Baume
quid heavier than water. In England, Twad-
from 145, and divide into 145; the quotient is
del's hydrometer is mostly employed for the
purpose. Baume's instrument is principally
used by confectioners to test the density of
the specific gravity.
II. For liquids lighter than water. — Add the
degree of Baume to 130, and divide it into
syrup; also by brewers and distillers to dis-
140; the quotient is the specific gravity.
cover the quantity of saccharine matter in
wort; and by soap manufacturers and dyers
67. To Convert Specific Gravity into
Degrees Baume. I. For liquids heavier
to prove the strength of their lyes and dyeing
than water. — Divide the specific gravity into
28
ACETIMETRY.
145, and subtract from 145; the remainder
is the decree of Baume.
II. For liquids lighter than water. — Divide
the specific gravity into 140 and subtract 130
from the quotient; the remainder will be the
degree of Baume.
68. Twaddell's Hydrometer. This
Hydrometer is much used in the bleaching
and dyeing establishments in Scotland, and
some parts of England. According to this
scale 0 is equal to 1000, or the specific gravity
of distilled water, and every additional 5 de-
grees of specific gravity adds 1 degree. to
Twaddell's scale. So that, in order to find the
specific gravity corresponding to any degree
of Twaddell's scale, multiply the degree by
5 and a.dd 1000; thus, if this hydrometer
shows 30°, 30 multiplied by 5 gives 150, and
1000 added makes 1150, the specific gravity.
To find the degree of Twaddell corresponding
to any specific'gravity, deduct 1000 from the
specific gravity, and divide the remainder by
5; the quotient will be the corresponding de-
gree of Twaddell.
Thus, if it be required to find the degree of
Twaddell corresponding to 1150 specific grav-
ity, deduct 1000 from 1150, and divide the
remainder, 150, by 5, and the quotient, 30, gives
the degrees of Twaddell required. In this
way the corresponding degrees of Twaddell
and Baume can easily be found. Thus, 31
degrees of Baum6 are equivalent to a specific
gravity of 1275; and this, according to the
above rule, will give 55 degrees Twaddell.
By reversing this process, Twaddell can as
readily be reduced to Baume1.
The art of deter-
mining the strength of acetic acid and
vinegar. Several methods are employed for
the purpose, based on — the quantity of acid
required for saturation; — the specific grav-
ity ai'ter the liquid has been neutralized with
hydrate of lime; — and the simple specific
gravity. In all these methods, account should
be taken of any mineral acid which may have
been added, as is common with vinegars, to
impart artificial strength.
70. To find the Comparative Weights
of Dry and Glacial Acetic Acid. As
both dry and glacial (or hydratcd) acetic acid
are referred to in many places, in speaking
of strengths, it may be convenient to know
that 51 parts of dry acetic acid are equal to
60 parts of glacial. (See No. 81.) Hence the
weight of glacial acid multiplied by .8512,
gives the weight of dry acid; and the weight
of dry acid, multiplied by 1.1748 gives a very
close approximation to the weight of glacial
acid.
71. Precautions in Testing Acids. It
is essential to success, in testing acetic or
other acids by saturation, to hit the exact
point of neutralization. It will be found greatly
to amplify matters to tint with litmus (see No.
78) either the sample under examination, or
the test liquid; but when litmus is used, it is
advisable to apply a gentle heat to the test
tube when saturation appears nearly reached ;
the heat will expel from the liquor the free
carbonic acid, which itself has the property
of reddening litmus. A glass or wooden rod
should be used for stirring, and the test liquid
added drop by drop.
72. To find the strength of Acetic
Acid by its Saturating Power. Dissolve
196£ grains pure crystallized bicarbonate of
potassa in a little water; add to the solution
sufficient water to make up exactly 1000 min-
ims, or the 100 divisions of an acidimeter, a
graduated glass tube of 100 divisions, each
division representing 10 minims. (See illustra-
tions, No. 82.) A "solution is thus formed,
which, when added by degrees to 100 minims
of the acetic acid or vinegar under examina-
tion, until the latter is exactly saturated,
indicates the exact amount of acid present in
the sample. Each minim of the alkaline solu-
tion thus employed represents 1 per cent, of
dry acetic acid. The test liquid must be added
a drop at a time to avoid the risk of loss by
excessive effervescence.
73. To find the strength of strong
Acetic Acid. If strong acetic acid be under
inspection, it will be found convenient, pre-
viously to testing it, to dilute it with from 2
to 8 times its weight of distilled water, ac-
cording to its degree of concentration. Dilute
acid and vinegar require no further dilution.
Instead of 196£ grains crystallized bicar-
bonate of potassa, may be used either 135
grains dry (see No. 12) carbonate of potassa,
281 grains crystallized carbonate of soda, or
104 grains dry carbonate of soda. (See No.
80.)
By using 98£ grains (half the quantity) of
the bicarbonate of potassa, we obtain a
still more delicate test liquid; as each minim
used for saturating a sample of acid will rep-
resent only •£ of 1 per cent, of dry acid.
74. To find the strength of Acetic
Acid by Saturation without an Acidi-
meter. The foregoing method can also be
applied to test by weight, instead of by an
acidimeter; 1000 grains of the test liquid are
used in testing 100 grains of acid. Every
grain of the test liquid necessary to produce
saturation indicates j\, grain of dry acid, and
every ten grains are equal to 1 per cent.
Schuster's alkalirneter is a convenient instru-
ment for this process. (See No. 82.) 1000
grains of the test liquid are introduced into
the alkalimeter, and the whole weighed; the
weight of the bottle and solution, ai'ter using
such portion of its contents as is required for
testing, deducted from the previous weight of
the whole, gives the exact quantity in grains
of the solution consumed; this, divided by 10,
gives the percentage of acid in the sample
tested. This method admits of great accuracy.
75. Practical test of the strength of
Acetic Acid. A less accurate, but more
convenient method for practical purposes, is
as follows: — To 100 or 1000 parts (or grains)
of a sample under inspection, add cautiously
from a weighed quantity of powdered pure
dry bicarbonate of potassa, sufficient to pro-
duce exact neutralization; carefully re-weigh
the bicarbonate unqonsumed. Double the
loss in grains will indicate the percentage of
acid in the liquid tested.
76. TTre's Test of the strength of Acet-
ic Acid. Ure's test gives very accurate re-
sults, if the ammonia employed is of the
proper specific gravity. To 100 grains of a
sample, very slightly reddened with neutral
ACIDIMETEY.
(blue) tincture of litmus, add liquor of am-
monia of specific gravity .992 from an acidime-
ter (see No. 82) until perfect neutralization is
effected, indicated by the original blue color
of the litmus being restored. The number of
acidimetric divisions of ammonia expended,
. multiplied by 51 (for dry) or by 60 (for glacial)
aud the product divided by 100, will give, re-
spectively, the percentage of dry or glacial
acid in the sample. Thus: — if a sample of
vinegar takes 10 acidimetric divisions of am-
monia to neutralize it, then 10 multiplied by
51, and divided by 100, gives 5.10, equivalent
to 5,'f, per cent, of dry acid: — or, 10 multi-
plied by 60 and divided by 100, gives 6 per
cent, of glacial or hydra ted acid in the sample.
77. Tire's Test, by Grains, of the
strength of Acetic Acid. The same
strength of ammonia is to be used in the
acidimeter as in the preceding test, and the
number of grain-measures of ammonia em-
ployed for a multiplier instead of acidimetric
divisions. The only difference is, that the
product in each case must be divided by 1000
instead of 100, to give the percentage of acid.
The estimation of
the quantity of an acid contained in
any given sample.
The methods used are founded chiefly on
the capacity of acids to saturate or neutralize
alkaline bases; and, in some of the liquid
acids, on specific gravity.
The accuracy of the tests, when satura-
tion is resorted to, depends greatly on the
exact point of neutralization, as already re-
marked under the head of Acetimetry. The
proper point is arrived at when the liquid, af-
ter being slightly heated, ceases to redden
litmus, or does not alter the color of turmeric
paper (see Test Papers) ; if it turns the lat-
ter brown, too much test-liquid has been
added, and the operation becomes useless.
A good method is to tint either the acid sam-
ple or the test-liquid with a few drops of lit-
mus (see No. 71), when the reddish shade
will gradually deepen to purple as the point of
saturation is approached, and the blue color
be restored as soon as that point is reached.
79. To test the strength of an Acid
by Saturation. Place in a test tube 100
grains of the acid to bo examined ; if the acid
be liquid, dilute it — if solid, dissolve it — in 6
or 8 times its weight of distilled water. Then
exactly neutralize ii with an alkali added drop
by drop. Tho known quantity of alkali con-
sumed for this purpose represents an equiv-
alent quantity of the actual acid contained in
the test tube. The common practice is to
dissolve 1 equivalent (see No. 80) of an alka-
line test in water, and to make up the solu-
tion to 1000 grains (100 acidimetric divisions).
The equivalent value of the test-liquid is then
100; hence, the quantity of the sample tested
will bear the same proportion to the equiva-
lent number (see No. 81) of the acid under ex-
amination, that the acidimetric divisions o:
the test-liquid consumed, bear to the percent-
age of acid sought. For example : Suppose
LOO grains of a sample of sulphuric acid re
quire 60 acidimetric divisions (600 grains) of
the test-bquid to neutralize them; what is
the percentage of the acid T The equivalent
of dry sulphuric acid is 40 (see N,o. 81) ;
•herefore by the rule of proportion, since
100 : 40 : : 60 : 24, the sample contains 24 per
ent. of dry sulphuric acid.
In this method the choice of the re-agent
must depend on the operator. Some prefer
;he ammonia test (see No. 76), which is very
:onvenient and easily applied ; others give a
^reference to bicarbonates or carbonates of po-
;assa or soda. Whichever be adopted, it must
je perfectly pure. A test solution, once care-
ully prepared of the proper strength, may bo
iept unharmed for any length of time in a
stoppered bottle, and will be always ready for
application.
80. Table of Equivalents of Alkalis,
GRAINS.
Pure ammonia 17
Dry carbonate of soda 53
Crystallized carbonate of soda 143
Crystallized bicarbonate of soda. . 84
Dry carbonate of potassa 69
Crystallized carbonate of potassa. 87
Crystallized bicarbonate of potassa 100
Pure or caustic soda 31
Pure or caustic potash 47
Sesquicarbonate of soda 85
Neutral carbonate of ammonia.. 43£
Sesquicarbonate of ammonia 59
Bicarbonate of ammonia 79
1000 grain measures of pure water of am-
monia of specific gravity .992, contain 17
grains or 1 equivalent of pure gaseous ammo-
nia.
It is understood that all crystals must be
perfectly free from attached water, but not in
the least effloresced.
81. Table of Equivalents of Acids.
This table is based on the foregoing table of
alkalis; so that, for instance, 1 equivalent (17
grains) of pure ammonia will exactly neutral-
ize 1 equivalent (22 grains) dry carbonic acid,
&c.
CHAINS.
Anhydrous acetic acid 51
Hyd rated or crystallized acetic acid... 60
Dry benzoic acid 113
Crystallized benzoic acid 122
Dry boracic acid 35
Crystallized boracic acid 62
Dry carbonic acid 22
Dry citric acid 58
Crystallized citric acid 67
Dry hydrochloric acid 36^
Liquid hydrochloric acid (sp.gr.1.16) . . 109
Dry malic acid 58
Dry nitric acid 54
Liquid nitric acid (sp. gr. 1.5) 67
" " " (sp. gr.1.42) 90
Dry oxalic acid 36
Crystallized oxalic acid 63
Dry sulphuric acid 40
Liquid sulphuric acid (sp. gr. 1.845.. . 49
Dry tartaric acid 66
Crystallized tartaric acid 75
82. Acidimeter. An acidimeter is a
glass tube, graduated with 100 divisions,
each division representing 10 grains of dis-
tilled water, termed grain measures. The
acidimeter is used for testing acids and alka-
lis, and is usually furnished with a lip for con-
venience in pouring by drops. Where great
delicacy is required in pouring or dropping,
3O
AL'KALIMETRY. — THE THERMOMETER.
various appliances are resorted to, by which
the outward flow can be instantly arrested,
merely by placing the finger or thumb on an
orifice arranged for the ingress of air. In the
illustrations, c denotes the place of egress for
Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. Fig. 4.
the contained liquid ; b, the orifice for the in-
gress of air, to be stopped by the finger or
thumb ; in Fig. 2, both orifices are in a hol-
low movable stopper; in Fig. 4, the air-hole
only is in the stopper, a.
Fig. 1 represents Gay Lussac's Pouret.
Fig. 2, Normandy's modification of Schus-
ter's Alkalimeter.
Fig. 3, Birck's Alkalimeter.
Fig. 4 is a simple acidimeter, with a stop-
per fitted to it, having a groove to correspond
with the lip, and a vent-hole drilled through
it to admit the ah-.
These modifications of the simple acidime-
ter are employed to allow of the test-liquid be-
ing added a single drop at a time, which is
absolutely necessary during the first part of
the process, to prevent undue effervescence,
and consequent danger of loss of the liquid ;
and in the latter part it is equally indispensa-
ble in order to attain exact saturation. They
dispense with the use of a separate pipette,
being, in fact, acidimeters and pipettes com-
bined.
Alkalimetry.
_/~\_ estimating the sti
The method of
strength of alkalis. The
processes used are the same as in acidimetry;
only that the unknown quantity sought is an
alkali, and the test applied is an acid. The
test acid is 1 equivalent (40 grains, see No.
81) of sulphuric acid sp. gr. 1.032 at 60° Fahr.
inserted in an acidimeter (see No. 82) and
made up with distilled water to 100 acidimetric
divisions.
84. To find the strength of an Alkali.
Place 100 grains of the alkali in a tube, and
agitate it with about £ ounce hot water.
When settled, pour off' the clear into a vessel
for trial, liepeat this process until nothing
soluble remains in the test tube, shown by
the last washing not affecting the color of
turmeric paper. Care must be taken not to
waste the smallest portion of the liquid, as it
would render the results inaccurate.
Next, exactly neutralize the alkaline solution
by adding sufficient of the test acid drop by
drop. If the saturation is complete, it will
neither turn litmus paper red, nor turmeric
paper brown. (Sec No. 78.) The weight of
alkali tested, bears the same relation to its
equivalent weight (see No. 80), that the acidi-
metric divisions of acid used, do to the percent-
age of alkali sought.
Thus: — If we test 100 grains of potash and
find it requires 35 acidimetric divisions of test
acid to saturate it, wo refer to table No. 80,
and find that the equivalent of pure potash
is 47 grains. Then 100 : 47 : : 35 : 16.45.
That is, the sample of potash under exam-
ination contains nearly 16-J- per cent, of pure
potash. (See No. 587")
The Thermometer, in
Fahrenheit's Thermometer, which is
universally employed in this country and
Great Britain, the. freezing point of water is
placed at 32°, and the boiling point at 212°
and the number of intervening degrees is 180.
The Centigrade thermometer, which has
long been used in Sweden under the name
of Celsius' thermometer, and is now employed
on the continent of Europe generally, marks
the freezing point at Zero or 0°, and the boil-
ing point at 100°.
In Reaumur's thermometer, used in France
before the revolution, the freezing point is
Zero, and the boiling point 80°.
Degrees below zero are distinguished by
prefixing the minus sign, thus — ; so that
— 17° Fahr. represent a temperature of 17C
lower than zero, equivalent to 49 degrees
below freezing point.
86. To Convert degrees of Centi-
grade into degrees of Fahrenheit. Mul-
tiply the degrees of Centigrade by 9, and di-
vide the result by 5: — then add 32.
Thus: to find the degrees of Fahrenheit
equivalent to 30 degrees of Centigrade.
30 degrees Centigrade.
Multiplied by 9
Divided by 5)270
54
Add 32
Answer, 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
87. To reduce degrees of Fahrenheit
to the corresponding degrees of Centi-
grade. Reverse the above process — First
deduct 32 from the degrees of Fahrenheit,
then multiply the difference by 5, and lastly
divide the result by 9.
Thus, 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
Deduct 32
54
Multiplied by 5
Divided by 9)270
Answer. 30 degrees Centigrade.
THE ART OF DYEING.
31
88. To Reduce degrees of Reaumur
to the corresponding degrees of Fahren-
heit. Multiply the degrees of Reaumur by
9, divide the result by 4, end then add 32.
Thus, 24° Reaumur.
Multiplied by 9
Divided by 4)216
Add
54
32
Answer, 86° Fahrenheit.
89. To reduce degrees of Fahrenheit
to corresponding degrees of Reaumur.
Reverse the above process.
90. To reduce degrees of Reaumur
to Centigrade. Add to the degrees of
Reaumur their one-fourth part.
Thus, 40° Reaumur.
Add one-fourth, 10
Answer 50° Centigrade.
91. To reduce degrees of Centigrade
to Reaumur. Deduct one-fifth part.
Thus, 50° centigrade
Deduct one-fifth 10
Answer, 40° Reaumur.
92. Table of corresponding degrees
of Fahrenheit, Reaumur and the Centi-
grade.
Fahrenheit.
Reaumur.
Centigrade.
Boiling.
212
80
100
203
76
95
194
72
90
185
68
85
176
64
80
167
60
75
158
56
70
149
52
65
140
48
60
131
44
55
122
40
50
113
36
45
104
32
40
95
28
35
86
24
30
77
20
25
68
16
20
59
12
15
50
8
10
41
4
5
Freezing.
32
0
0
23
4
— 5
14
— 8
— 10
5
— 12
— 15
— 4
— 16
— 20
— 13
— 20
— 25
— 22
— 24
— 30
— 31
— 28
— 35
— 40
— 32
— 40
All intermediate degrees can be obtained
by the preceding rules.
The Art of Dyeing. The
art of fixing coloring matters uniformly
and permanently in the fibres of wool, silk,
linen, cotton, and other substances. Dyeing is
a chemical process, and the mode of its per-
formance depends upon the substance opera-
ted on. Thus it is found that the process by
which wool is dyed black, would only impart
a rusty browfi to linen. Wool unites with
almost all coloring matters with great facility,
silk in the next degree, cotton less easily than
silk, and linen with even more difficulty.
Preparatory to the operation of dyeing, each
of these substances undergoes a species of
preparation to free the fibres from adhering
foreign matter, as dirt, grease, <fcc, which
would prevent the absorption of the aqueous
fluid to be afterwards applied, as well as im-
pair the brilliancy of the dye. Wool is cleaned
or scoured by means of a weak alkaline lye,
soap and water, or putrid urine; the latter
being very generally used for this purpose.
Silk is cleaned from the natural varnish that
covers it, by boiling with white soap and
water. Cotton and linen are cleaned with
alkaline lyes of more or less density. The
substances so prepared are ready to undergo
the various operations of dyeing.
Among the various coloring materials em-
ployed by dyers, some impart their tints to
different substances by simple immersion in
their infusions or decoctions, and have hence
been called " substantive colors;" but by far
the greater number only impart a fugitive
dye, unless the fibres of the stuff have been
previously filled with some substance which
has a strong affinity for the latter on the one
hand, and the coloring material on the other.
The substances applied with this intention are
called "Mordants," and generally exercise
the double property of "fixing" and "striking"
the color. Thus, if cotton goods be dyed
with a decoction of madder, it will only re-
ceive a fugitive and dirty red tinge, but if it
be first run through a solution of acetate of
alumina, dried at a high temperature, washed,
and then run through a madder bath, it
will come out a permanent and lively red.
The principal mordants are the acetates of
iron and alumina, sulphate of iron, alum, and
some other chemical salts. A perfect know-
ledge of the effect of mordants on different
coloring substances is of paramount import-
ance to the dyer.
After having received the proper mordants,
the goods are dried and rinsed, after which
they are passed for a shorter or longer time
through an infusion, decoction, or solution of
the dyeing materials, which constitute the
" dye-bath"; they are again dried and rinsed.
In many cases, the immersion in the dye-bath
is repeated, either with tfie same materials or
with others to vary or modify the color.
After the substances have been properly
dyed, they are subjected to a thorough rinsing
or washing in soft water, until the latter runs
off uncolored.
94. Dye Woods, &c. Decoctions of
the different woods are prepared for general
use in the dye house as they are required. If
the wood be in the chipped state, it must be
boiled for an hour, in the proportion of 1
pound of wood to 1 gallon of water; a second
THE ART OF DYEING.
boiling is generally given with new wa
ter, and the liquor obtained used instead o
water with more new wood. This second li
quor is not good lor dyeing alone, but when
employed instead of water for new wood, {
pound of new wood is sufficient. The secouc
liquor may, however, be used as an auxiliary
in the dyeing of compound colors, such as
browns, drabs and fi^wns. If the wood be
ground the same quantity is taken — namely,
1 pound for each gallon of the decoction re-
quired, and is prepared as follows: — on a
piece of coarse cloth stretched upon a frame,
or laid into a basket, put the ground wood,
and place it over a vessel, then pour boiling
water over the wood until the liquor that runs
through is nearly colorless. Barwood and
Camwood are always used in the ground
state, the wood being put into the boiler
along with the goods; no dec actions of these
woods are made. Decoctions of bark and
weld are often formed by putting them into a
coarse canvas bag, and then suspending it in
boiling water.
The coloring principle of archil is highly
soluble in hot water, and is useful in combi-
nation with other dyeing materials; but used
alone, does not impart a permanent color.
95. To prepare Annotto. Into 2 gal-
lons of water put 1 pound of Annotto, 4
ounces of pearlash, and 2 ounces of soft
soap, and apply heat, stirring until the whole
is dissolved. When convenient it is best to
boil the solution.
96. To prepare Catechu. To 7 or 8 gal-
lons of water put 1 pound of catechu, and
boil till it is all dissolved; then add 2
ounces of sulphate of copper, stir, and it is
ready for use. Nitrate of Copper may also
be used, taking 1 wine-glassful of the solution
made according to the next receipt.
97. To make Nitrate of Copper So-
lution. To 1 part by measure nitric acid,
and 2 parts water, add metallic copper so
long as the acid will dissolve it, then bottle
the solution for use.
98. To make Sulphate of Indigo.
Into 5 pounds of the most concentrated sul-
phuric acid, stir ia by degrees 1 pound of the
best indigo, finely ground; expose this mix-
ture to a heat cf about 160° Pahr. for 10 or 12
hours, stirring it occasionally; a little rubbed
upon-a window-pane should assume a purple-
blue color.
99. To make Indigo Extract. This is
prepared by proceeding exactly as stated for
sulphate of indigo and then diluted with
about 4 gallons hot water,' and the whole put
upon a thick woolen filter, over a large vessel,
and hot water poured upon the filter, until it
passes through nearly colorless; the blackish
matter retained upon the filter is thrown
away, and the filtered solution is transferred
to a leaden vessel, and evaporated to about 8
gallons, to which is added about 4 pounds
chloride of sodium (table salt) and well stir-
red; the whole is again put upon a wooden
filter and allowed to drain. The extract re-
mains as a thin pasty mass upon the filter, and
is ready for use.
100. To make Bed Liquor. Into 1
gallon hot water place 2 pounds alum; dis-
solve, in a separate vessel, 2 pounds acetate
cf lead in 1 gallon water; in a third vessel
dissolve £ pound crystallized soda; mix all
the solutions together and stir well for some
time, then allow to stand over night; decant
the clear solution which is ready for use.
101. To make Caustic Potash. To
3 gallons water add 2 pounds either black or
pearl ashes, and boil; when seething add
newly-slaked lime, until a small quantity
taken out does not effervesce when an acid is
added to it. To test this, take a tumbler half
filled with cold water, put a table-spoonful of
the boiling lye into the tumbler, and add a
few drops sulphuric acid; if the acid were
added to the hot lye, it would spurt up and
endanger the operator. When the addition
of acid causes no effervescence, the boiling
and adding of lime is stopped, and the whole
allowed to settle; then remove the clear li-
quid into a vessel having a cover, to prevent
it from taking carbonic acid from the air.
This serves as a stock for general use. The
lime sediment remaining may have some hot
water added, which will give a strong lye, and
may be used for first boils for yarn or heavy
cloth.
102. To make Caustic Soda. For
every gallon water add 1 pound soda ash, or
2 pounds crystallized soda (washing soda);
boil and proceed by adding slaked b'me, and
testing as for potash ; boiling for some time
is essential in order to ensure perfect caus-
ticity.
103. To make Lime-water. Take
some well and newly-burned limestone, and
pour water over it as long as the stone seems
to absorb it, and allow it to stand; if not
breaking down freely, sprinkle a litttle more
water over it. A small quantity is best done
in a vessel, such as an old cask, so that it can
be covered with a board or bag. After being
slaked, add about 1 pound of it to every 10
gallons cold water, then stir and alldw to set-
tle; the clear liquor is what is used for dyeing.
This should be made up just previous to using,
as lime-water standing attracts carbonic acid
Torn the air, which tends to weaken the solu-
iion.
104. To Make Bleaching Liquor.
Take a quantity of bleaching powder (chloride
of lime) and add to it as much water as will
make it into a thin cream; take a flat piece
of wood, and break all the small pieces by
pressing them against the side of the vessel,
,hen add 2 gallons cold water for every pound
of powder; stir well, put a cover upon the
vessel, and allow the whole to settle. This
will form a sort of stock vat for bleachingopera-
;ions.
105. To make a Sour. To every gal-
on of water add 1 gill of sulphuric acid, stir
,horoughly; goods steeped in this should be
;overed with the liquor, as pieces exposed
jecome dry, which deteriorates the fibre; if
eft under the liquor the cloth is not hurt by
jeing long in the sour, but on being taken
out, every care should be taken to wash out
,he liquor thoroughly, otherwise the goods
wrill be made tender.
106. To make Cochineal Liquor or
Paste. Put 8 ounces ground cochineal into
a flask and add to it 8 fluid ounces ammonia
and 8 ounces water; let the whole simmer to-
;ether for a few hours, when the liquor is
ready for use.
THE AllT OF DYEING.
33
107. Acid Preparations of Tin. The
acid preparations of tin used in dyeing are
called spirits, with a term prefixed to each
denoting their particular application, as red
spirits, barwood spirits, <fcc. The tin em-
ployed for making these preparations has to
undergo a process called feathering, and is as
follows: — the tin is molted in an iron pot, and
then poured from some height into a vessel
filled with cold water; this granulates or
feathers, the tin. (See No. .3319.)
108. Bed Spirits are made by mixing
together in a stoneware vessel, 3 parts by
measure hydrochloric acid, 1 part nitric acid,
and 1 part water, and adding to this feathered
tin in small quantities at a time, until about
2 ounces tin to the pound of acid used are
dissolved. In this operation the temperature
should not be allowed to rise. (See No. 4124.)
109. Yellow Spirits are prepared in
the same way, only substituting sulphuric
acid for the nitric acid. This is used for the
same purposes as red spirits, with the advan-
tage of the economy of sulphuric over nitric
acid.
110. Barwood Spirit is prepared by
using 5 measures hydrochloric acid, 1 nitric
acid and 1 water, dissolving in this 1 ounce
feathered tin for every pound of the whole
mixture. H ounces tin may be used if the
red dye is required to be very deep.
111. Plumb Spirit is made by using 6
to 7 measures hydrochloric acid to 1 nitric
acid and 1 water, dissolving in it 1£ ounces tin
for each pound of the acid mixture. This
spirit is named from a preparation made with
it and a decoction of logwood. A strong so-
lution of logwood is made and allowed to cool,
then to each gallon of the solution there is
added from 1 to 1£ pints of the spirit ; the
whole is well stirred and set aside to settle.
This preparation has a beautiful violet color,
and silk and cotton are dyed of that shade by
dipping them into this plumb liquor without
any previous mordant. The depth of tint
will depend on the strength of the solution.
112. Plumb Spirit for Woolen Dye-
ing-. This is prepared by adding tin to ni-
tric acid in which a quantity of chloride of
ammonium (sal ammoniac) has been dissolved.
Observe, that all these spirit preparations are
varied by different operators, some preferring
more or less of the two acids, and also of
the tin ; but the proportions given form good
working spirits, and if care be taken in their
preparation not to fire them, that is, not. to
allow the temperature to get so high as to
convert the tin into a persalt, the operator
will not fail in his processes as far as the
quality of the spirit is concerned.
113. Tin Spirits. The following .are
among the best recommended preparations of
tin spirits, used for dyeing scarlet :
1 pound nitric acid, 1 pound water; dissolve
in this 1£ ounces sal ammoniac, and then add,
by degrees, 2 ounces pure tin, beaten into rib-
bons.
Or : dissolve 1 part sal ammoniac in 8 parts
nitric acid at 30° Baume ; add, by degrees, 1
part pure tin; and dilute the solution with
one-fourth its weight of water.
Or: 4 parts hydrochloric acid at 17° Baumd,
1 part nitric ac'id at 30° Baume ; dissolve in
this mixture 1 part pure tin.
Or : 8 parts nitric acid, 1 part sal ammoniac
or common salt, and 1 part grain tin. This is
the common spirit used by dyers.
114. Alum Plumb. Make a strong
decoction of logwood, and then add to it 1
pound alum for every pound of logwood
used.
115. To Test the Purity of Alum.
The usual impurity whfch renders alum unfit
for the uses of the dyer, is the ferro-sulphate
of potassa, but if iron be present in any other
shape it is equally injurious. Common alum
frequently contains ammonia, from urine or
the crude sulphate of the gas works having
been employed in its manufacture. This may
be detected by adding a little quicklime or
caustic potassa. Pure alum should form a
colorless solution with water, and give a white
precipitate with pure potassa soluble in an ex-
cess of the latter. It should suffer no change
on the addition of tincture of galls, prussiate
of potash, or sulphurated hydrogen.
1 16. Nitrate of Iron is used in the dye-
house for various purposes. Its principal use
is for dyeing Prussian Blue, and is obtained as
follows : Take 4 parts nitric acid and 1 part
water in a glass or stoneware vessel ; place it
in a warm bath, and add clean iron so long as
the acid continues to dissolve it with effer-
vescence ; take out any iron that remains Tin-
dissolved, and, after settling for 1 hour, the
clear solution is ready for use. The fumes
given off during the operation should be guard-
ed against, being deleterious to health and in-
jurious to any metal or vegetal with which
they come in contact. This solution should
be kept in the dark, as it loses some of its
strength by exposure to light.
117. Chloride of Iron is another salt
used in the dye-house for dyeing silks and
woolens a deep blue, and is preferred, for that
purpose, to copperas. It is prepared for use
thus : To 4 parts hydrochloric acid add 2 parts
water, and apply a gentle heat ; then add iron
in pieces, or filings, so long as it continues to
be dissolved ; then pour off the clear liquid
into a basin, and evaporate, when greenish
colored crystals of chloride of iron will be ob-
tained. This salt crystallizes with difficulty,
deliquesces in the air, and should not be ex-
posed. Instead of evaporating and crystal-
lizing, the solution may be put in a bottle and
reserved for use.
118. To make Iron Liquor. Into a
large cast-iron boiler, or pot, a quantity of
iron turnings, hoops or nails, are introduced,
and acetic acid — the crude pyroligneous acid
from the distillation of wood — is poured in
upon them. The strength of the acid is gen-
erally of 5° Baume, or specific gravity 1.035.
A temperature of 150° Fahrenheit is main-
tained till the solution of protoacetate of iron
is obtained. During the solution of the iron
much tarry matter separates, which is skim-
med off, and the solution frequently agitated,
to free it, as much as possible, from the tar.
As soon as a strength is gained of a specific
gravity of 1.09, at 60° Fahrenheit, the solution
is allowed to cool, for a further quantity of
impurities to separate. When clean turnings
are operated on, the process of solution is
completed in 5 to 7 days.
119. To make up a Blue Vat. Take 1
pound indigo, and gnnd in water until no
THE ART OF DYEING.
grittiness can be felt between the fingers;
put this into a deep vessel — casks are gener-
ally used — with about 12 gallons water ; then
add 2 pounds copperas, and 3 pounds newly-
slaked lime, and stir for 15 minutes ; stir again
after 2 hours, and repeat every 2 hours for 5 or
6 times ; towards the end, the liquor should be
of a greenish yellow color, with blackish
veins through it, and # rich froth of indigo on
the surface. After standing 8 hours to settle,
the vat is fit to use.
120. To make Blue Stone. Sulphate
of copper is known in commerce as Blue
stone, Roman vitriol, and Blue vitriol, and
may be prepared by exposing pure copper in
thin sheets to the joint action of dilute sul-
phuric acid and air; or by treating freshly
precipitated oxide of copper with diluted pure
oil of vitriol ; or by boiling the metal with oil
of vitriol, either in the concentrated state or
diluted with an equal bulk of water. These
are the simplest ways of obtaining this salt,
which may be reduced to a crystalline form
by evaporation. The crystals assume a well-
defined rhomboidal form of a fine sapphire-
blue color.
121. To make Solutions for Dyeing.
In making solutions of copperas, blue stone,
chrome, &c., there is no fixed rule to be fol-
lowed. A quantity of the crystals are put into
a vessel, and boiling water poured upon
them and stirred until dissolved. Some
salts require less water than others when sat-
urated solutions are wanted ; but in the dye-
house saturation is not essential, and therefore
there is always used ample water to dissolve
the salt. In all cases, however, the propor-
tions are known, so that the operator, when
adding a gallon, or any other quantity of
liquor to the dye-bath, knows how much salt
that portion contains. Prom £ to 1 pound
per gallon is a common quantity.
122. To Prepare Cotton Yarn for
Dyeing. Cotton yarn, when spun, is put up
in hanks, a certain number of which com-
bined constitute a head ; the number of hanks
ranging from 6 to 20, according as the
fineness of the yarn varies from very coarse
to very fine. Sufficient of these heads are
tied together, or banded with stout twine into
a bundle, to make 10 pounds.
After banding, the cotton is boiled in water
for 2 or 3 hours until thoroughly wet. The
bundles are then loosed, and each roll of yarn
is put on a wooden pin, about 3 feet long
and 1| inches thick, 4 or 6 pins making a
bundle. The yarn is now ready for dyeing
dark colors; but for light shades, it must be
bleached previous to dyeing. The bleaching
is performed thus :
123. To Bleach. Cotton Yarn. A ves-
sel sufficiently large to allow of the yarn be-
ing worked in it freely without pressing, is to
be two-thirds filled with boiling water ; add 1
pint bleaching liquor (see No. 104) to every
gallon of water in the vessel, and work the
yarn in this for half an hour. Into another
vessel of similar size, two-thirds filled with
cold water, add one wine-glassful sulphuric
acid for every 2 gallons water ; stir well, and
then put the yarn from the bleaching solution
into this, and work for 10 minutes ; then wash
out until all the acid is removed. This will
bleach the yarn for dyeing any light shade.
124. To Prepare Cotton Cloth for
Dyeing. The cloth is taken out of the fold,
and hanked up by the hand, taking the end
through the hank and tying it loosely, tech-
nically termed kinching ; it is then steeped
over night in old alkaline lye, which loosens
and removes the oil, grease and dressing
which it has obtained in weaving ; it is then
thoroughly rinsed in clean water. "Where
there is a dash-wheel, it should be used for
this washing. In consequence of the liquor
often fermenting with the paste in the cloth,
this process has been technically termed the
rot steep.
If the cloth is to be dyed a dark color, no
further preparation is needed ; but if light,
the cloth has to be bleached as follows :
125. To Bleach Cotton Cloth. After
undergoing the rot steep, boil for 3 hours in
caustic lye, of the strength of 1 gill of stock
lye (see No. 101) to the gallon of water ;
wash out, and steep for 6 hours in a solution
of 1 pint of bleaching liquor (see No. 104) to
the gallon of water; wash, and steep 1 hour
in a strong sour of 1 wine-glassful sulphuric
acid to 1 gallon water ; wash well from this
before drying or dyeing.
If the cloth be very heavy, it may be neces-
sary to repeat in their proper order the boiling
in lye, the steeping in bleaching liquor, and
in the sour, finishing, as before, with thorough
washing or drying.
In bleaching cloth for dyeing, care has to
be taken that it is all equally white, other-
wise it will show in the color.
The quantity of water used should be suffi-
cient to cover the cloth easily without pressure.
If the goods be old, and have previously
been dyed, and if the shade required be a
deep shade, and the color of the goods light,
in that case nothing is generally required but
steeping in alkaline lye to remove any grease
or starch ; but if the color of the cloth is
dark, the best method is to bleach as if they
were gray goods.
126. To Remove Oil Stains. When
there are oil spots upon goods, and so fixed
or dried in, that steeping in an alkaline lye
will not remove them, rub a little soft soap
upon the stain, and let it remain for an hour,
then rub gently with the hand in a lather of
soap, slightly warmed, and wash in water;
for cotton, a little caustic lye will do equally
well, but the soap is preferable, and seldom
fails. It is essential that all oil or grease be
removed before dyeing.
127. To Remove Iron Stains. Take
a little hydrochloric acid in a basin or saucer,
and make it slightly warm, then dip the iron
stain into the acid for about 1 minute, which
will dissolve the oxide of iron; the cloth
must be well washed from this, first in water,
then in a little soda and water, so as to re-
move all trace of acid. A little oxalic acid
may be used instead of hydrochloric, but
more time is required, and with old fixed
spots is not so effective. The same precau-
tions are necessary 'in washing out the acid,
as oxalic acid dried in the cloth injures it.
128. To Remove Mildew from Cot-
ton. Proceed with the stains by rubbing in
soap or steeping in a little soda, washing, and
then steeping in bleaching liquor (see No. 104),
or by putting a wine-glassful of the stock
THE ART OF DYEING.
35
liquor (see No. 101) in 1 pint of water; after-
wards wash, pass through a sour (see No. 105),
and wash again.
1 29. To Remove Indelible-Ink Marks.
Steep in a little chlorine water or a weak solu-
tion of bleaching liquor (see No. 104), for
about half an hour, then wash in ammonia
water, which will obliterate the stain; then
wash in clear water. They may also be re-
moved by spreading the cloth with the ink
marks over a basin filled with hot water;
then moisten the ink marks with tincture oi
iodine, and immediately after take a feather
and moisten the parts stained by the iodine
with a solution of hyposulphate of soda, or
caustic potassa or soda, until the color is re-
moved ; then let the cloth dip in the hot wa-
ter ; after a while wash well and dry.
130. Indigo Blue Dye for Yarn. The
vats used for dyeing indigo blue are usually
wine pipes or other large casks, sunk in the
ground to a depth convenient for the operators
to work at. Five of these constitute a set,
and are worked together and kept of the same
strength. The yarn being worked in quanti-
ties of 100 pounds, 20 pounds are passed
through each vat.
Each vat is filled about three-fourths with
cold water; there are then added 8 pounds of
indigo, 16 pounds of sulphate of iron (cop-
peras), and 24 pounds newly-slaked lime. The
whole is well stirred with a rake for half an
hour, and this stirring is repeated every
hours for the first day.
The time to stop the stirring is known by
the solution becoming a rich oak yellow,
having large blue veins running through it
and a fine indigo froth on the surface. When
these signs are all favorable, the solution is
allowed to stand for several hours till all the
solid matter settles, when it is ready for use.
The mode of dyeing consists in simply im-
mersing the goods, and working them in the
solution for 15 minutes, taking out and
wringing or pressing, and then exposing to
the air ; repeating this operation until the de-
sired depth of color is obtained. The yarn is
then washed in cold water and dried. "When
the shade required is very deep, the yarn
may, previous to washing, be passed through
a tub of water acidulated with vitriol till it
tastes acid, and then washed ; this adds bril-
liancy to the color.
131 . Sky Blue Dye for Cotton Goods.
To dye 10 pounds of cotton, first bleach the
cotton (see No. 125); then, to a tub of cold
water sufficient to work the goods easily, add
i pint nitrate of iron, and work in this for 20
minutes; wring out, and pass through a tub
of clean water. Into another tub of cold
water add 4 ounces ferrocyauide of potassium
in solution, and about a wine-glassful of sul-
phuric acid; work the goods in this for 15
minutes; wring out and wash through cold
water, in which is dissolved 1 ounce of alum;
wring out and dry. For lighter or darker
shades of blue, use less or more of the iron
and ferrocyanide; or, should the color be too
light after passing through the process de-
scribed," add 1 ounce more ferrocyanide, repeat
the operation through the same tubs, and the
shade will be deepened nearly double.
132. Napoleon Blue. For 10 pounds
cotton goods, the cotton must be first bleached.
Into a tub of cold water put 1 imperial pint of
nitrate of iron and 2 gills hydrochloric acid,
then add 3 ounces crystals of tin (or 1 pint
chloride of tin); stir well and immediately
work the goods in it for 30 minutes; .wring
out and put directly into the prussiate tub,
made up with water into which is put a solu-
tion of 12 ounces ferrocyanide, and one wine-
glassful of hydrochloric acid; work in this
for 15 minutes, then wash out in clean water
in which is dissolved 2 ounces of alum. If a
deeper shade of blue is required, wash them
in clean water without the alum, pass them
again through the two tubs ; and, lastly, wash
them in water with the alum.
133. Royal Blue. This is dyed in the
same manner as Napoleon Blue, but the li-
quors are stronger — using 2 pints iron solution,
2 gills hydrochloric acid, and 4 ounces tin
crystals. The Prussiate tub is made up by
dissolving in it 1 pound ferrocyanide of po-
tassium, and adding 1 wine-glassful of sul-
phuric acid, and 1 of hydrochloric acid. If
not dark enough with putting through once,
repeat.
134. Blue. Copperas (sulphate of iron)
is used as a mordant for dyeing blue by ferro-
cyanide of potassium (prussiate of potas-
sium). The copperas best suited for the blue vat
should be of a dark rusty green color, and
free from copper, zinc, or alumina. Thus, 10
pounds cotton may be dyed a good rich blue
by working it for 15 minutes in a solution of
4 pounds copperas; wring out; and then work
through a solution of 4 ounces of the ferro-
cyanide; finally, wash in cold water containing
1 ounce alum in solution.
Copperas is also used as a dye by the oxi-
dation of the iron within the fibre. Thus:
135. Iron Buff or Nankeen. Take 2
pounds copperas, and dissolve in warm water,
then add the requisite quantity of water for
working the goods; work in this for 20 min-
utes; wring out, and put immediately into
another vessel filled with lime-water, and
work in this for 15 minutes; wring out and
expose to the air for half an hour, when the
goods will assume a buff color. If the color
is not sufficiently deep, the operation may be
repeated, working through the same copperas
solution, but using fresh lime-water each time.
The goods should be finally washed through
clean warm water and dried.
136. Nankeen or Buff Dye for Cot-
ton Goods. To a tub of hot water add 1
pint nitrate of iron, and work in this for half
an hour 10 pounds cotton previously bleached
(see No. 125) ; wash out in water, and dry.
This process is simple and easy, and produces
a permanent dye.
137. General Receipts for Dyeing
Cotton. In the following receipts, the quan-
tities are given for 10 pounds cotton, whether
yarn or cloth. For more or less cotton, the
quantities can be increased or diminished in
proportion; but when small articles are to be
dyed — such as ribbons, gloves, <fec. — a little
more of the materials may be used in propor-
tion to advantage. Where washing is referred
;o, it is always in cold water, unless other-
wise specified.
138. Common Black. Steep the goods
n a decoction of 3 pounds sumach while it is
hot, and let them lie over night; wring out
36
THE ART OF DYEING.
and work them for 10 minutes through lime-
water, then work for half an hour in a solu-
tion of 2 pounds copperas. They may either
be washed from this, or worked again through
lime-water for 10 minutes; then work them
for half an hour in a warm decoction of 3
pounds logwood, adding £ pint chamber lye;
before entering the goods, lift and raise with
2 ounces copperas in solution; work 10 min-
utes, then wash and dry.
139. Jet Black. The goods are dyed
in the same manner as the last receipt; but
along with the logwood is added 1 pound
fustic.
In both the above receipts if 3 pints iron
liquor (see No. 118) be used instead of the
copperas, or in part mixed with the cop-
peras, it makes a richer shade of black, but
copperas is generally used; if mixed, use half
the quantity of each.
140. Blue Black. Dye the goods first
a good shade of blue by the vat (see No. 130),
and then proceed as for common black. If
the blue be very deep, then half the quantity
of the materials for dyeing black will suffice.
141. Spirit Yellow. Work through a
solution ofprotochloride of tin, of the specific
gravity of 1° Baume', for 30 minutes ; wash
out, and work for 15 minutes in a decoction of
3 pounds bark kept at a boiling heat ; lift out
the goods and add to the bark solution -J.pint
single chloride of tin ; work the goods for 20
minutes in this, and then wash well in cold
water. This gives a rich yellow.
142. Spirit Brown. First dye the goods
a spirit yellow, according to the last receipt ;
after washing, work for % hour in a decoction
of 2 pounds lima or peachwood and 1 pound
logwood ; lift the goods out and add 3 ounces
alum in solution, and work the goods in it 15
minutes; wash and dry. By varying the pro-
portions of logwood and limawood, a vanety
of shades may be produced.
143. Mordant Brown. Steep the goods
for six hours in a decoction of sumach, next
dye a spirit yellow, according to the receipt
given above. Then work for half an hour
through a decoction of 2 pounds limawood
and 8 ounces logwood; lift the goods, and
add 2 ounces alum in solution ; work for 15
minutes, wash and dry. This method is well
adapted for cotton goods, is better than the
spirits, and more easily performed by the non-
practical man. The spirit brown is best for
yarn.
144. Cinnamon Brown. Dye a dark
spirit yellow (see No. 141), and work for 30
minutes in 3i pounds limawood and -J- pound
logwood; lift the goods and add 2 ounces
alum in solution ; wash and dry.
145. TTvanterin Brown. Dye a spirit
yellow (see No. 141), then work for 20
minutes in a decoction of 1 pound limawood
and 1 pound fustic ; lift, and add -J- pint red
liquor (see No. 100) ; work 10 minutes in this;
wash and dry.
146. Fawn Brown. Take 1 part an-
notto liquor (see No. 95), and 1 part boiling
water ; stir well, and work the goods in it for
10 minutes ; wring out and wash in two wa-
ters ; then work for 20 minutes in a decoction
of 2 pounds fustic and 1 pound sumach ; lift,
and add 3 ounces copperas in solution ; stir
•well, and work for 20 minutes longer ; then
work for 20 minutes in a decoction of 8 ounces
limawood, 8 ounces fustic, and 4 ounces log-
wood ; lift, and add 1 ounce alum ; work in
this for 10 minutes ; wring out and dry.
147. Catechu Brown. Work the goods
at a boiling heat for 2 hours in 2 pounds of
catechu prepared according to No. 96 ; wring
out, and then work for hah1 an hour in a hot
solution of 6 ounces bichromate of potassa ;
wash from this in hot water. If a little soap be
added to the wash water, the color is improved.
Deeper shades of brown may be dyed by
repeating the operation.
148. Catechu Chocolates. Dye brown
according to the last receipt, then work for 15
minutes in a decoction of 1^ pounds logwood ;
lift, and add 3 ounces alum in solution ; work
10 minutes longer ; wash out and dry. Dif-
ferent shades of brown and chocolate can be
produced, by varying the proportion of log-
wood, and the strength of the brown dye.
149. Chocolate, or French Brown.
Dye a spirit yellow according to receipt No.
141 ; then work for hall' an hour in a decoc-
tion of 3 pounds logwood ; lift, and add ^ pint
of red liquor (see No. 100), and work 10 min-
utes longer ; wash and dry. A deeper shade
may be obtained by adding 1 pound fustic to
the logwood.
150. Catechu Fawns. "Work the goods
15 minutes in hot water containing 2 pints
catechu, prepared as in receipt No. 96 ; wring
out, and work 15 minutes in hot water con-
taining 1 ounce bichromate of potassa in solu-
tion ; wash and dry.
151. Catechu Fawns — Another Meth-
od. Work in the catechu the same as in the
last receipt ; wring out, and work for 15 min-
utes in warm water containing 2 ounces
acetate of lead in solution; wash in cold
water and dry.
1 52. Catechu Fawns— Another Meth-
od. Work in warm water containing 4 pints
catechu (see No. 96), lift, and add 2 ounces
copperas in solution, and work for 15 minutes ;
wash in water, and then in another tub of
warm water in which sufficient soap has been
dissolved to raise a lather, and then dry.
153. Common Bed. Make a decoction
of 3 pounds sumach, and put the goods in at
once ; let them steep over night ; wring out
and work for an hour in a mixture of 1 gill
red spirits (see No. 108), to every gallon
water ; wring out and wash well ; then work
for half an hour in a decoction of 3 pounds
limawood and 1 pound fustic, using this de-
coction as hot as the hand can bear it ; lift,
and add 1 gill red spirits, then work for 1^
minutes more ; wash out and dry.
154. Barwood Bed. To a decoction of
2 pounds sumach, add a wine-glassful of
vitriol, and steep the goods in it for 6 hours ;
wring out and work for an hour in red spirit
(see No. 108), diluted to 2° Baum6; wring
out and wash, then pass through a tub of
warm water ; put 10 pounds barwood into a
boiler with water and bring it near to the
boil, then put in the goods and work among
the wood grains for £ hour; lift out, wash,
wring and dry. Deeper shades may 15e dyed
by using larger quantities of tho materials in
each operation.
155. Scarlet. For 1 pound of goods,
boil If ounces cream of tartar in water in a
THE ART OF DYEING.
37
block-tin vessel; add If ounces tin spirits,
made according to the first receipt in Wo. 113;
boil for 3 minutes, then boil the goods in it
for 2 hours; drain and let the goods cool.
Next boil i ounce cream of tartar for a few
minutes in some water; add to it 1 ounce
powdered cochineal, boil for 5 minutes, adding
gradually 1 ounce tin spirits, stirring well all
the time; then put in the goods and dye im-
mediately.
156. Common Crimson. Steep over
night in a decoction of 3 pounds sumach;
work in spirits diluted 2° Baume, wash and
then work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 3
pounds limawood and 1 pound logwood; lift,
and add a gill of red spirits (see No. 108);
work for 15 minutes; wash and dry. A beau-
tiful red crimson is obtained by omitting the
logwood; and a diversity of tints dyed by
varying the proportions of the limawood and
logwood.
157. Light Straw. To a tub of cold
water add 4 ounces acetate of lead in solution,
work the goods in this for 15 minutes, and
wring out; then work for 10 minutes in an-
other tub of water containing 2 ounces bi-
chromate of potassa; wring out, and work
again in the lead solution for 10 minutes;
wash and dry.
158. Leghorn. This tint is dyed in the
same manner as the last, but adding | pint
of annotto liquor (see No. 95) to the chrome
solution. Different shades may be obtained
by using more or less of these stuffs, without
varying the mode of working.
159. Annotto Orange. Heat the an-
notto solution (see No. 95) to about 140°
Pahr.; work the goods in it for 20 minutes;
wring out thoroughly in order to economize
the liquor, wash in a couple of waters and
dry. If the goods are then passed through
water with sufficient acid to taste sour, a very
red orange, almost scarlet, is obtained, but the
tint fades quickly.
160. Logwood Blue. Dye first a light
blue with the vat (see No. 130), then soak the
goods for several hours in a hot decoction of
2 pounds sumach; then work for 15 minutes
in water containing 1 pint red liquor (see
No. 100) and 1 pint iron liquor (see No. 118);
wash in two waters, hot; then work for 20
minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds logwood;
lift, and add | pint red liquor, and work again
for 10 minutes; wash and dry.
161. Fustic Green on Yarn. Dye a
blue with the vat (see No. 130), wash and
wring, and then pass through red liquor (see
No. 100) diluted to 4° Bauine; wash through
a tub of hot water, and then work for 20 min-
utes in a decoction of 4 pounds fustic; lift,
and add 2 ounces^alum in solution; work for
15 minutes, wash and dry.
162. Fustic Green on Cloth. Work
the goods in red liquor (sec No. 100) diluted
to 4° Baume, and dry in a hot chamber; then
wet in hot water and work for 20 minutes in
a decoction of 3 pounds fustic; lift, and add
2 ounces alum in solution; work again for 15
minutes; wring out and work in chemic (a so-
lution of sulphate Of indigo whose acid has
been neutralized with carbonate of soda);
wring out and dry.
163. Dark Green on Cloth. After the
goods have been cleaned, work them for 10
minutes in red liquor (see No. 100) at 5°Baum4;
wring out, and pass through a tub of hot water;
then work for half an hour in a decoction of
3 pounds bark; lift, and add ^ pint red liquor
(see No. 100); work 10 minutes longer, then
lift and drain; work next for 20 minutes in a
tub of cold water containing 5 gallons chemic
(see last receipt); wring out and dry. The
depth of shade can be varied by increasing or
diminishing the quantities of material in pro-
portion.
164. Green with Prussian Blue.
Dye a good Prussian blue (see No. 131) accord-
ing to the depth of green required; then work
10 minutes in red liquor (see No. 100) at 4°
Baume; wash in warm water, and work for
half an hour in a decoction of 3 pounds fustic;
lift, and add 2 ounces alum in solution; work
again for 10 minutes, wash and dry. A finer
tint can be obtained by using bark instead of
fustic, but it must not be worked too warm.
165. Sage Green. Dye a Prussian blue
(see No. 131), and work 10 minutes in a solu-
tion of 2 pounds of alum; wring out, and
work 15 minutes in a decoction of 1 pound
fustic; lift, and add a pint of the alum solution
already used; work 10 minutes; wash and dry.
166. Olive or Bottle Green. Dye a
good shade of Prussian blue (see No. 131);
then mordant 10 minutes in red liquor (see
No. 100) at 5° Baume; wring out and wash
in hot water; then work half an hour in a
decoction of 3 pounds fustic and 1 pound
sumach, then add £ pint of iron liquor (see
No. 118), and work 15 minutes ; wash in a tub
containing 2 ounces alum, and dry.
167. Olive or Bottle Green— Another
Method. Work the goods in red liquor (see
No. 100) at 5° Baurn6, wash out in warm wa-
ter; then work for half an hour in a decoction
of 3 pounds bark and 1 pound sumach; lift,
and add ^ pint iron liquor (see No. 118), and
work 15 minutes; wring out and work 15 min-
utes in the chemic (see No. 162); wring out
and dry.
168. Olive Green. Dye a Prussian blue
(see No. 131); then work for 10 minutes in
red liquor (see No. 100) at 4° Baume"; wash in
hot water, and work in a decoction of 3
pounds bark and 1 pound logwood; lift, and
add % pint red liquor, and work 10 minutes;
wash and dry. By varying the proportions of
bark and logwood, different shades of green
may be obtained.
If the goods be yarn, a light blue may be
dyed by the vat (see No. 130) instead of the
Prussian blue, and proceeded with as above.
169. Lilac or Puce. "Work for an hour
in red spirits (see No. 108) at 1-J-0 Baume';
wring out and wash; then work half an hour
in a decoction of 3 pounds logwood at about
140° Pahr.; lift, and add 1 gill red spirits-, and
work 20 minutes; wash and dry. Half a pint
red liquor (see No. 100) or 2 ounces alum,
may be added to the logwood after lifting, in-
stead of the red spirit.
170. Lilac or Puce. "Work for 15 min-
utes in red liquor (see No. 100) at 5° Baume';
wring out and wash in a tub of warm water;
then work half an hour in a decoction of 2
pounds logwood at 140° Pahr.; lift, and add
£ pint red liquor, or 2 ounces alum ; work 10
minutes, and wash in clean warm water;
wring out and dry.
38
THE ART OF DYEING.
171. light Purple or Adelaide. Steep
the goods in a decoction of 2 pounds sumach ;
wring out, and work half an hour in plumb
spirit (see No. Ill) ; wring out, and wash in
clean cold water until no taste of acid is left
on the goods, and dry.
When working with the plumb spirit, it is
advisable to put a sufficiency of it into a
separate vessel for working the goods, return-
ing the liquor afterwards to the plumb tub.
172. Light Purple. Steep in a decoc-
tion of 2 pounds sumach ; wring out and work
for 20 minutes in red spirits (see No. 108) at
1£° Baume; wash well and then work in plumb
spirit, and finish the same as the last receipt.
173. Purple. Steep in a decoction of 2
pounds sumach until cool ; work in red spirits
(see No. 108) at 1£° Baum6 for an hour, and
wash in cold water ; then work for half an
hour in a decoction of 3 pounds logwood at
140° Fahr.; lift, and add 1 gill red spirits, and
work 10 minutes more ; wash in cold water
and dry.
If a browner tint is required, use a little
more sumach; for a bluer tint, use less
sumach and more logwood; and add, after
lifting, £ pint red liquor (see No. 100), or 2
ounces alum, instead of red spirits.
174. Lavender or Peach. "Work for
20 minutes in plumb spirit (see No. Ill) ;
wring out, and wash in clean cold water till
free from acid taste, and dry.
175. Logwood, Lilac or Puce. Dye a
good shade of Prussian blue (see No. 131) ;
then work 15 minutes in a decoction of 1
pound logwood at 140° Fahr.;. lift, and add 4
ounces alum ; work 10 minutes, then wash in
cold water and dry.
176. Logwood Lilac. Dye a sky blue
(see No. 131) ; then work for 15 minutes in a
tub of warm water containing 1 gallon alum
plumb (see No. 114) ; wring out and dry.
177. Common Drab. "Work for 15
minutes in a decoction of ^ a pound sumach ;
lift, and add 1 ounce copperas in solution,
and work 15 minutes more ; wash out in a
tub of cold water, then work 15 minutes in a
decoction of 4 ounces fustic, 2 ounces lirna-
wood, and 1 ounce logwood ; lift, and add 1
ounce alum in solution; work 10 minutes,
then wring out and dry.
A great variety of different tints can be
produced by varying the proportion of the
limawood, fustic, and logwood; and lighter
or darker shades by diminishing or increasing
the quantities of sumach and copperas.
178. Olive Drab. "Work for 15 minutes
in -J- pound sumach; lift, and add 1 ounce
copperas, and work 15 minutes more; wash
in water, then work for 20 minutes in water
with -J- pound fustic; lift, and add 1 ounce
alum, and work for 10 minutes and dry.
179. Drab. To a tub of hot water add
1 pint annotto preparation (see No. 95),
which gives a light salmon color ; then pro-
ceed as for olive drab in last receipt. By
varying the quantities a great variety of tints
may be obtained.
180. Stone Color. "Work the goods 20
minutes in a decoction of 1 pound sumach ;
lift, and add 1 ounce copperas in solution ;
work for 15 minutes, and wash in cold water ;
then work 10 minutes in warm water con-
taining $ pint alum plumb (see No. 114);
wring out and dry. This gives a reddish
tint, which may be avoided by using a solu-
tion of £ ounce of alum instead of the alum
plumb.
181. Catechu Stone Drab. "Work the
goods 15 minutes in hot water containing 2
pints prepared catechu (see No. 96) ; lift, and
add 2 ounces copperas in solution ; work for
15 minutes, and wash in water, then work for
10 minutes in a tub of warm water containing
a decoction of 2 ounces logwood ; lift, and
add £ ounce alum; work 10 minutes more,
wring out and dry.
182. Catechu Drab. Work for 15 min-
utes in hot water containing 1 pint prepared
catechu (see No. 96) ; lift, and add 1 ounce
copperas; work 10 minutes; wash out and
dry. A variety of tints may be obtained by
finishing in a weak decoction of one or other
of the different dye-woods.
183. Chrome Dyes for Cotton Goods.
The following recipes will serve to illustrate
the use and value of chrome (bichromate of
potassa) as a dyeing agent. The quantities
given are for dyeing 10 pounds weight of cot-
ton, and may be increased or diminished in
proportion, according to the quantity of goods
to be dyed.
184. Light Straw. To a tub of cold
water add 4 ounces acetate of lead, previously
dissolved; work the goods through this for
15 minutes, and wring out ; into another tub
of water add 2 ounces bichromate of potassa ;
work the goods through this 10 minutes,
wring out and pass again through the lead
solution for 10 minutes ; wash and dry.
185. Lemon Color. Into a tub of cold
water put 1 pound acetate of lead, previously
dissolved ; work the goods in this for 15 min-
utes, and wring out ; into another tub of cold
water put 6 ounces bichromate of potassa in
solution; work the goods for 15 minutes
through this, and wring out; then work it 10
minutes in the lead solution ; wring out, wash,
and dry.
186. Deep Yellow. To a tub of cold
water add 1 pound acetate of lead, and 1
pound nitrate of lead in solution ; work the
goods in this for 30 minutes, and wring out ;
then to a tub of warm water add 12 ounces
bichromate of potassa, and work the goods in
it for 15 minutes ; expose to the air for half
an hour, then pass again through both solu-
tions, working them the same time in each as
before, and expose to the air for one hour ;
then pass them through the lead solution ;
wring out, wash and dry. If the color is not
deep enough they may be passed through the
solutions again, observing the same rules.
187. Deep Amber Yellow. Put into
a tub of water 1 pound acetate of lead, and to
this add gradually caustic potassa or soda,
until the precipitate formed be re-dissolved,
taking care not to add more alkali than is re-
quired for this solution; work the goods in
this for 30 minutes ; wring out, and work for
15 minutes in another tub of water to which
8 ounces bichromate of potassa has been
added in solution ; wring out, wash and dry.
2 or 3 ounces sulphate of zinc may be added
to the chrome solution with good effect. If a
deep red amber be required, add to the
chrome solution £ pint muriatic acid.
188. Chrome Green. Dye a blue by
THE ART OF DYEING.
39
the process described in No. 131 ; then dye a
yellow according to the last receipt. The
depth of the blue and yellow will regulate the
tint of green.
The principal difficulty is when a particular
depth or shade of green is wanted, to ascer-
tain the exact shade of blue to be given, as
blue cannot be added upon the yellow. This
is a matter which can only be learned by
practice.
189. French Process for Dyeing Tur-
key-Bed. The following process for dyeing
turkey-red, is the one in general use in
Prance at present.
The quantities of materials, &c., given, are
for dyeing 2200 pounds of cotton, which has
already, it is assumed, been subjected to
thorough washing and scouring in soap.
Dissolve 20 to 22 pounds carbonate of
potassa in about 330 gallons of water, and
provide for future use 1300 to 1400 pounds of
fat oil ; next divide the goods to be dyed into
three equal portions.
The first step in the process is oiling the
goods ; mix together one-third part of the fat
oil and of the solution of potassa, stirring by
degrees into the oil sufficient solution to pro-
duce an emulsion; this makes the white
liquor.
One-third of the goods are padded, that is,
drawn through evenly backwards and for-
wards, in this white liquor ; then take them
out and lay together in a heap in a fresh cool
place for 10 or 12 hours, and dry in an atmo-
sphere heated to 140° Fahr.
"While the first portion of the goods is dry-
ing, prepare a second portion of white liquor,
and subject a second portion of the goods to
the same operation as the first ; the remaining
portion of the goods is in turn subjected to
the same treatment, using the remainder of
the fat oil for a third tub of white liquor ; by
this means the process proceeds without inter-
mission, each portion being under different
stages of treatment simultaneously.
This routine is repeated several times
(generally seven or eight) on each portion,
each always in its own tub, according to the
quantity of oil which it is desired to fix on
the goods. If the bath begins to fail, either
a little tepid water is added, or a certain
quantity of old white liquor proceeding from
the washings.
The next stage is to remove superfluous
oil; this is done by macerating the goods
twice, successively, for 24 hours each time,
in a solution of carbonate of potassa at 1°
Baume. The liquid which is wrung or
pressed out of them constitutes the old white
liquor, which may be employed again for
filling up in the oiling operation. The goods
are then carefully rinsed.
The third process is galling or mordanting.
Bruise 22 pounds gall-nuts, and boil repeat-
edly until thoroughly drawn ; add sufficient
water to make up to 66 gallons ; dissolve in
this 35 pounds alum with the assistance of
heat. This is sufficient for working one-half,
that is, 1100 pounds of the cotton, which
must be padded in the liquid at a temperature
of about 160° Fahr.; it is next suspended for
2 days in a drying-room heated to 112° Fahr.,
and then passed into a hot concentrated bath
of chalk. Care must be taken to work the
goods very equally in this bath, in order to
avoid streaking. The goods are then washed,
and present a fawn-colored appearance.
The fourth step is the first dyeing. This is
performed on 10 pieces at a time, the propor-
tions of madder varying according to the
breadth and length of the pieces, from 13, 15,
17 to 20 pounds madder for each piece. As
in the preceding process, the madder is
divided into two equal portions, one portion
being used for the first dyeing, and the other
portion reserved for the second dyeing. The
one portion is mixed with the requisite quan-
tity of water, from 300 to 400 gallons ; the 10
pieces are introduced into this bath at a tepid
heat, and kept in it 3 hours, the temperature
being gradually increased, until, at the end of
2f hours, boiling point is reached ; and this
heat is sustained for the remaining J hour.
The goods must then be washed, thoroughly
cleansed, rinsed and dried.
The fifth stage is the second galling ; which
is prepared in the same gall liquid, and in the
same manner as the first galling, finishing
with the chalk bath, washing and drying.
The sixth operation is the second dyeing, an
exact repetition of the first dyeing, using the
remaining half of the madder reserved for this
purpose.
The seventh step, first clearing, is per-
formed in a close boiler, two-thirds filled with
water containing in solution 13 pounds soap,
and 3£ pounds carbonate of potassa; the
goods are boiled in this for 8 hours.
The eighth process is a second clearing, con-
ducted in the same manner as the first clear-
ing, but dissolving in the water 14£ pounds
soap, and 14 ounces chloride of tin instead of
the potassa solution.
For only very lively reds a third clearing,
similar to the second, is required. The goods,
after clearing, are exposed for some time in
the air; then worked through a bran bath,
which adds to the brightness of the color.
The process here described is slightly modi-
fied by some French dyers ; thus, experience
proves that the oil is better fixed in the stuff
when the drying is not performed too rapidly;
and there are some who, when the season
does not admit of exposure to the air, heap
the pieces together, after oiling, in a drying-
room heated to 95° Fahr., turning them over
from time to time to prevent injury from
overheating. Some use ox-blood in the pro-
portion of 40 pounds blood to 100 pounds
madder.
190. Violet. Dye a turkey red (see No.
189), and then pass through the blue vat.
(See No. 130.)
191. Preparation and Dyeing of
Woolens. To prepare new woolen goods
for dyeing, the cloth dr yarn (if the latter, it
is first banded with twine into spindles, see
No. 122,) is steeped over night in soap lye,
and then scoured through clean soap to re-
move all oil or grease that may be upon the
wool. Instead of soap, a scouring mixture
may be prepared with 1 pound soft soap and
1 pound common soda (or | pound soda-ash),
in 10 gallons water.
Goods to be re-dyed must first be steeped
and scoured in soap and soda. If the re-
maining color be unequal or dark, the goods
must be worked for a short time in a sour,
THE ART OF DYEING.
made by dissolving 2 ounces bisulphate of
potassa in each gallon of water used. Woolen
goods are always dyed hot, as near boiling
point as possible ; this necessitates the use of
boilers, which should be of copper, or copper
and tin, as iron will not answer the purpose.
The dye-stuffs are generally put in the boiler,
and the goods worked with it, but it is cleaner
to make decoctions (see No. 94), and use the
clear liquor. All washings are to be in cold
water unless otherwise specified. The quan-
tities given in the following receipts are for
dyeing 10 pounds of woolen goods, either
cloth or yarn, unless otherwise specified.
192. Black. "Work for 20 minutes in a
bath with 8 ounces camwood ; lift, and add 8
ounces copperas ; work 20 minutes more, then
withdraw the fire from the boiler, and sub-
merge the goods in the liquor over night,
then wash out. "Work for an hour in another
bath containing a decoction of 5 pounds log-
wood and 1 pint chamber lye ; lift, and add
4 ounces copperas ; work for 30 minutes long-
er, wash and dry.
193. Brown. "Work for an hour in a
bath made up with 2 pounds fustic, 2 pounds
madder, 1 pound peachwood, and 4 ounces of
logwood; lift, and add 2 ounces copperas;
work for 30 minutes, wash and dry.
194. Brown Dye. The different shades
of this dye vary from pale yellow and reddish
brown up to very dark brown, almost black,
every shade of which, however, may be pro-
duced, as the taste of the workman may dic-
tate, by mixtures of reds and yellows with
blues and blacks, or by simple dyes, which at
once impart a brown, — as catechu, walnut
rinds, or oxide of manganese.
Boil the cloth in a mordant of alum and
common salt dissolved in water, then dye it
in a bath of logwood, to which a little green
copperas has been added. The proportion of
alum should be 2 ounces, and of salt 1 ounce,
to every pound of cloth.
Or boil the goods in a mordant of alum
and sulphate of iron, then rinse them through
a bath of madder. The tint depends on the
relative proportions of the alum and copperas;
the more of the latter, the darker will be the
dye. The joint weight of the two should not
exceed £ of the weight of the wool. The best
proportions are 2 parts of alum and 3 of cop-
peras.
For other receipts for dyeing black and
brown see Index.
195. Crimson. "Work in a bath for one
hour with 1 pound cochineal paste, 6 ounces
dry cochineal, 1 pound tartar, and 1 pint pro-
tochloride (single chloride) of tin; wash out
and dry.
196. Scarlet. Work for an hour in a
bath with 1 pound tartar, 2 ounces dry cochi-
neal, 8 ounces sumach and 8 ounces fustic ;
wash out and dry.
197. Bed. "Work for 30 minutes in a
bath made up with 1 ounce chrome and 1
ounce alum ; wash in cold water ; then work
for 30 minutes in another bath with three
pounds peachwood or limawood; lift, and add
1 ounce alum ; work for 20 minutes ; wash
and dry.
198. Claret Red. Work for an hour in
5 ounces camwood ; lift, and expose the goods
until well drained and cold ; meanwhile, add
to the camwood bath 4 ounces copperas, 2
ounces alum, and 8 ounces logwood; work
the goods for 30 minutes, wash and dry.
199. Scarlet. For every 100 pounds of
fabric, boil, in a suitable kettle, 11 pounds
ground Honduras cochineal, 5 pounds half-re-
fined tartar or 3 pounds tartaric acid, 2 pounds
oxalic acid, 1 pound tin crystals, 1£ pounds
flavine, 10 pounds scarlet spirit (see below).
After it has boiled for about fifteen minutes,
cool the dye to 180° Fah., enter the goods,
handle them quickly at first, and let them
boil slowly for 1 hour, when they will be a
good scarlet. Take them out, cool, and rinse
in cold water. If it should happen that the
wool or flannel shows some white hair, which
is generally the case when new wool is used,
then add 5 pounds of raw muriatic acid to the
dye. This powerful agent will work wonders
in scarlets, oranges, and pinks, as it tans the
wool, which is perhaps a little greasy, and pre-
vents the tin crystals from fastening too
quickly to it, and thereby evener colors are
obtained. This latter fact is very valuable,
and not generally known.
Scarlet spirit is thus prepared : Take 16
pounds muriatic acid 22° Baume, 1 pound
feathered tin, 2 pounds water. The acid
should be put in a stoneware pot, and the tin
added, and allowed to dissolve; the mixture,
should be kept a few days before using.
200. Lac Scarlet. Work for 30 minutes
in a bath with 1 pound tartar, 8 ounces su-
mach, and 2 pounds lac ; lift, and add about a
gill of bichloride of tin ; work for 30 minutes,
wash and dry.
201. Pink. Work for an hour in a bath
made up with 1 pound tartar, 8 ounces alum,
1 pound cochineal paste, and 1 gill red spirits
(see No. 108) ; wash in cold water and dry.
202. Yellow. Work for 20 minutes in a
bath of water containing 8 ounces tartar and
8 ounces alum ; lift, and add 2 pounds bark,
8 ounces sumach, 8 ounces fustic, and 1 pint
red spirits (see No. 108) ; work in this for 40
minutes, wash out and dry.
203. Orange. Work for 40 minutes in 2
pounds sumach, 3 ounces dry cochineal, 1
pound fustic, 8 ounces tartar, and 1 pint red
spirits (see No. 108) ; wash and dry.
204. Sky Blue. Work for 30 minutes
in a bath containing 8 ounces argol, 1 pound
alum, and 1 gill indigo extract (see No. 99) ;
wash out and dry. The shade of blue will de-
pend on the quantity of indigo extract used.
For other shades of blue see Index.
205. Pigeon Blue. Work for 40 min-
utes in 2 ounces chrome (bichromate of potash),
4 ounces alum, and 1 ounce tartar ; wash out
in cold water, and then work for 30 minutes
in another bath made up with 3 pounds log-
wood ; lift, and add 1 ounce verdigris ; work
for 15 minutes, wash and dry.
206. Apple Green. Work for 30 min-
utes in a bath with one ounce chrome and 1
ounce alum ; wash through cold water, then
work for 30 minutes , in another bath with 2
pounds fustic and 8 ounces logwood; wash
and dry. Different proportions of the mate-
rials used will produce different shades.
207. Green. Work for 15 minutes in 5
pounds fustic, 2 ounces argol, and 5 ounces
alum ; lift, and add £ gill of indigo extract
(see No. 99) ; work for 30 minutes and dry.
THE ART OF DYEING.
4:1
More or less indigo extract will make the
green bluer or yellower, as required.
208. Fast Green. First dye a blue in
the indigo vat (see No. 130) according to the
depth 01 the green required; then work for
an hour in a bath with 4 pounds fustic and 2
pounds alum ; dry out.
209. Olive. Work for an hour in a bath
made up with 10 ounces fustic, 8 ounces log-
wood, 4 ounces madder, and 2 ounces peach-
wood •; lift, and add 4 ounces copperas in so-
lution ; work for 30 minutes and dry.
210. Wine Color. "Work for an hour in
a bath with 4 pounds cudbear, and dry. For
a darker shade use more cudbear. If the tint
be desired bluer, add, after 30 minutes work-
ing, 1 gill ammonia; if a redder tint is
wanted, add a wine-glassful of hydrochloric
acid ; but if this last be used, the goods must
be washed out before drying.
211. Light Violet. Work for an hour
in a bath with 4 ounces cudbear, 4 ounces
logwood, 2 ounces barwood or camwood, and
2 ounces psachwood ; lift, and add 2 ounces
alum in solution, work for 30 minutes and
dry.
212. Lilac or Puce. "Work in a bath
for one hour with 10 ounces logwood, 1 ounce
camwood and 8 pounds cudbear ; lift, and add
2 ounces copperas in solution ; work for half
an hour and dry.
213. Brown Drab. "Work for 30 min-
utes in a bath with 2 ounces ground madder,
1 ounce peachwood, 2 ounces logwood, and
6 ounces fustic ; lift, and add 3 ounces cop-
peras in solution; mix well and work the
goods for 30 minutes more ; then wash and
dry. The shade can be adjusted to suit,
varying the quantities and proportions of the
dye-woods.
214. PropertiesofDye-woods. Peach-
wood reddens, madder gives the drab tint,
fustic supplies yellowness, and logwood in-
duces a slate hue.
215. Stone Drab. "Work the goods for
20 minutes in a bath containing 1 ounce
peachwood or limawood, 2 ounces logwood
and % ounce fustic ; lift, and add 1 ounce cop-
peras in solution ; stir well and work in this
for 30 minutes'; lift out and expose to the air
for a short time ; wash and dry. Different
shades are made by varying the quantities of
the dye-woods. (See last receipt.)
216. Slate. Work for half an hour in a
bath with 8 ounces logwood and 1 ounce fus-
tic ; lift, and add 1 ounce alum and ^ ounce
copperas in solution ; work for half an hour ;
wash and dry. For a bluer tint, use less alum
and more copperas ; for more purple, use less
fustic and more alum, &c.
217. Blue. Dyeing woolens blue is per-
formed by dipping in the blue vat (see No.
130), and then exposing to the air, repeating
the operation till the desired depth of color is
obtained.
218. Blue Purple. 100 pounds wool
are first dipped a light blue in the vat, and
well rinsed. Then take a stone pot, put in 3
pounds tartar, 3 pounds feathered tin, 5
pounds blue vitriol, and 20 pounds muriatic
acid ; heat all in a sand bath until dissolved.
From this mordant take 10 pounds in a suit-
able kettle; add 5 pounds tartar to it, stir it
well, and enter the wool at 170° Fahr.; let it
boil for 1 hour ; take it out, cool, and let it
lay for 24 hours. Then boil out 20 pounds
good logwood for f hour in fresh water ; cool
off the kettle to 150° Fahr., enter the wool,
and handle it well for an hour, then heat it
up to 185° Fahr., but do not let it boil ; let it
go for 1 hour more, when it will be a dark
purple. This color stands the sun remarkably
well, perhaps owing to the fact that there is
not any alum or sulphuric acid used, except
that contained in the blue vitriol.
219. Blue Purple, Fast Color. 100
pounds of wool are first dipped in the blue
vat to a light shade, then boiled in a solution
of 15 pounds alum, and 3 pounds half-refined
tartar, for 1-J- hours; the wool taken out,
cooled, and let stand 24 hours. Then boil in
fresh water 8 pounds powdered cochineal, for
a few minutes ; cool the kettle to 170° Fahr.;
handle the prepared wool in this for 1 hour,
in which time let it boil for f hour, when it is
ready to cool, rinse, and dry. By coloring
first with cochineal, as above, and finishing
in the blue vat, the fast purple, or dahlia, so
much admired in German broadcloths, will be
produced.
220. Royal Blue Dye for Woolen
Goods. Woolens may be dyed different
shades of blue with nitrate of iron, observing
the general rule that woolens must be worked
at a boiling heat.
To dye 5 pounds of woolen goods — work
for 20 minutes in a bath with 1 pound ferro-
cyanide of potassium, and lift; then take $
pint nitrate of iron and add to it 1 ounce crys-
tals of tin (or 1 pint chloride of tin); stir
well for a few minutes and then add this mix-
ture to the bath, and work the goods in this
for 30 minutes ; wash out and dry. For vari-
ous shades of color, increase or diminish the
quantities in proportion.
221. Chrome Dyes for Woolen Goods.
The quantities given in the following receipts
are for dyeing 5 pounds of woolen goods, un-
less otherwise stated. It must be understood
that the goods must be cleaned before dye-
ing, and the dyeihg must always be performed
at a boiling heat.
222. Black. Work for 1 hour in a bath
with' 8 ounces bichromate of potassa, 6
ounces alum, and 4 ounces fustic; lift, and
expose to the air for a short time ; wash well,
and then work for 1 hour in another bath with
4 pounds logwood, 4 ounces barwood, and
4 ounces fustic ; lift, and add 4 ounces cop-
peras in solution ; work half an hour in this,
and then wash and dry. In order to dye a
blue black, the goods must be first dyed blue
by the vat (see No. 130) or otherwise, and then
proceeded with as for black, only using less ma-
terials.
223. Brown. Work for half an hour in
8 ounces of bichromate of potassa ; lift, and
expose till cold; then work an hour in 2
pounds fustic, 4 ounces madder, 3 ounces cud-
bear, 4 ounces tartar, 2 ounces logwood ; lift
out and dry; or it may be washed before dry-
ing
224. Rich Yellow Brown. Work for
an hour in the following bath : 2 ounces bi-
chromate of potassa, 2 ounces argol, 2 ounces
alum ; wash from this bath ; then work about
40 minutes in another bath made up with 2
pounds fustic, 1 pound madder, 8 ounces
4:2
THE ART OF DYEING.
peachwood, and 4 ounces logwood ; wash out
and dry. This gives a very beautiful brown ;
and a great variety of tints and shades may
be made by varying the quantities of the last
bath, the first bath remaining the same.
225. Rich Yellow. Work for half an
hour in a bath with 3 ounces bichromate of
potassa and 2 ounces alum ; lift, and expose
till well cooled 'and drained; then work for
^ hour in another bath with 5 pounds fustic ;
wash out and dry.
226. Bottle Green. • Work for an hour
in a. bath with 2 ounces bichromate of po-
tassa and 4 ounces alum ; lift out and expose
to the air till cold; then work for an hour in
a second bath with 3 pounds fustic, !•$• pounds
logwood ; wash out and dry.
227. Invisible Green. Work for an
hour in a bath with 3 ounces bichromate of
potassa, 4 ounces alum; lift, and expose to
the air for some time ; then work for an hour
in a second bath with 2 pounds fustic, 3£
pounds logwood; wash out and dry. By
comparing these last two receipts it will be
seen that the different shades are produced by
varying the proportions of the same dye-stuffs,
and will serve as a guide for other shades of
dark green.
228. Olive. Work for an hour in a bath
with 4 ounces chrome, 2 ounces alum; lift
and expose to the air ; then work for an hour
in a bath with 3 pounds fustic, 1£ pounds
camwood, 1 pound logwood ; lift out and dry.
229. Purple. Work the goods half an
hour in a bath with 1 ounce bichromate of
potassa, 1 ounce alum ; lift out and wash in
cold water ; and then work half an hour in a
bath with 2 pounds logwood, 1 pound peach-
wood ; lift, and add 1 ounce alum in solution ;
work in this for 20 minutes ; wash and dry.
If a lighter and redder shade be required, use
less logwood and more peachwood. For a
darker shade use more of each.
230. Rich Green Drab. Work the
goods 30 minutes in a bath with 1 ounce
bichromate of potassa, % ounce alum, £ ounce
tartar ; lift out and wash in cold water ; then
work for half an hour in another bath with
4 ounces logwood, 2 ounces fustic, 1 ounce
barwood (or | ounce peachwood) ; wash and
dry. The shades of this can be varied by
using different proportions of the stuffs.
231. Rich Drab. Work for 30 minutes
in -J ounce bichromate of potassa; lift, and
add 1 ounce of logwood ; work in this for 30
minutes; lift out, wash and dry. Different
proportions will produce different shades of
color.
232. Chrome Blue. 100 pounds of
wool are boiled for one hour in a solution of
3 pounds bichromate of potash, 6 pounds
alum, 1 pound half-refined tartar ; then it is
taken out, cooled, and rinsed. Boil 6 pounds
good logwood in a bag for half an hour in
fresh water, add 3 pounds cudbear, well
moistened and dissolved. Cool the dye to
180° Fahr. Enter the prepared wool, and
handle it for f of an hour ; bring it to a boil
in this time. This color ought to be always
left a shade lighter when finished, as all
chrome colors darken in drying.
In the foregoing receipts, the quantity of
water to be used is not material, but will be
regulated according to the size of the vessel
and the amount of goods to be dyed, but there
should always be enough water to cover the
goods without the necessity of pressing them
down.
Rules for making decoctions, &c., will be
found in No. 94.
233. Preparing and Dyeing Silk.
New silk is banded in the same m'anner as
cotton (see No. 122), in quantities convenient
for making up into skeins when finished.
After banding, it is tied up carefully in fine
canvas bags and boiled three or four hours in
strong soap- water to remove all the gum.
Yellow silk must be first worked on sticks for
an hour in a solution of soft soap at a temper-
ature of about 200° Fahr., and then boiled in
bags. It is then washed from the soap and
put on sticks for dyeing.
Silk goods to be re-dyed must be steeped in
a strong soap solution at nearly boiling point
for a few hours, to remove all stains and
grease ; they are then washed, and if the color
on them is light and equal, and they are to be
dyed dark, then no further preparation is re-
quired ; but if the color is unequal, they must
be soaked for 15 minutes in a sour (see No.
105), and then washed out.
The quantities given in the following re-
ceipts are for five pounds of silk. If the
goods are tightly spun, such as ribbons, dress
silk, <fec., the quantities must be slightly in-
creased.
There must be sufficient water used to
cover the goods laying loosely. When goods
are washed from the dye, it is always to be in
cold water, unless otherwise stated.
234. Black. Work for an hour in a
solution of 8 ounces copperas ; wash well out
in cold water ; then work in a decoction of 4
pounds logwood, adding to it \ pint chamber
lye ; lift, and add 2 ounces copperas in solu-
tion ; work 15 minutes, wash and dry.
This gives a good black, but not very deep.
235. Deep Black. Work for an hour
in a solution of 8 ounces copperas (sulphate
of iron), and 2 fluid ounces nitrate of iron :
and, after washing out, work in the decoction
of logwood and chamber lye, as in the last re-
ceipt, finishing as there directed.
236. Blue Black. If a blue black is re-
quired, follow the same directions, but add a
little white soap, instead of the chamber lye,
to the logwood decoction, and add no copper-
as after lifting.
237. Full Deep Black. Work for 1
hour in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 2
ounces nitrate of iron; wash out, and work
for an hour in a decoction of 5 pounds log-
wood and 1 pound fustic; lift, and add 2
ounces copperas, and work 10 minutes ; wash
and finish. If the color is not deep enough,
add a little more logwood before lifting.
238. French Black. Work for an hour
in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 4
ounces alum ; wash out well, then work for
an hour in a decoction of 4 pounds logwood,
with a little white soap added ; wash out and
finish.
239. Blue Black by Prussiate. Dye
a deep Prussian blue according to receipt
No. 131, and work, from the prussiate, for
half an hour, in 8 ounces copperas ; wash well
out in cold water, and then work for half an
hour in a decoction of 2 pounds logwood.-
THE ART OF DYEING.
4,3
lift, and add a little of the copperas solution
first used, then work for 10 minutes more ;
wash and dry.
240. Deep Hat Black. "Work for 15
minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds fustic and
1 pound bark ; lift, and add 6 ounces acetate
of copper and 6 ounces copperas in solution ;
work for 15 minutes more ; then sink the silk
below the surface and let it steep over night ;
lift out and wash ; then, to a decoction of 5
pounds logwood, add white soap sufficient to
make a lather, and work the silk in it for an
hour ; wash out and dry.
241. Brown. Dye an annotto orange
(see No. 159) ; then work for 20 minutes in a
decoction of 3 pounds fustic, 8 ounces sumach
and 8 ounces peachwood ; lift, and add
ounces copperas in solution, and work for 15
minutes ; wash out in two waters, adding -J- pint
alum solution in the last water. If the par-
ticular tint is not obtained, it may be given in
the last alum-wash by adding as follows :
for yellowness, a little fustic; for redness, a
little peachwood ; for depth or blueness, log-
wood. A number of different tints of brown
may be obtained by varying the proportions
of fustic, sumach and peachwood. A great
many particular hues of brown may be dyed
by this method ; for instance, by using only
fustic and sumach in the second operation, a
California brown is obtained, &c. So that
any intelligent person may regulate his colors
and tints.
242. Red Brown. Dye a deep annotto
orange (see No. 159) ; then work for 15 min-
utes in plumb liquor (see No. Ill) ; wash well
and dry. Particular tints can be made by
adding fustic, peachwood or logwood to the
last washing, as described in the last receipt.
243. Red Brown. Steep the silk for
an hour in a solution of 8 ounces alum to
each gallon water, then wash out in warm
water ; next, work half an hour in a decoction
of 1£ pounds fustic, H pounds peachwood, and
8 ounces logwood ; lift, and add 1 pint of the
alum solution; work 10 minutes, wash and
dry.
244. Chocolate Brown. Steep the silk
for an hour in a solution of 1 pound alum to
each gallon of water; wash once in warm
water, and then work for half an hour in a
decoction of 3 pounds peachwood and 1
pound logwood ; lift, and add 1 pint of the
alum solution, work again for 15 minutes;
wash out and dry.
For deeper shades use less peachwood and
more logwood; for a still deeper tint, add
about 4 ounces fustic.
245. Bronze Brown. Work for half
an hour in a decoction of 8 ounces fustic, to
which 4 fluid ounces of archil liquor has been
added; lift, and add 2 ounces solution of
copperas ; work 15 minutes, wash and finish.
246. Cochineal Crimson. To every
fallon of water used, add about 2 fluid ounces
ichloride (oxychloride) of tin, allow any sed-
iment to settle, and warm the clear solution ;
work the silk in this for an hour or more.
Boil 2 pounds cochineal by suspending it in a
bag on the surface of some water; add this to
a quantity of water sufficient for working the
goods, and bring it to a blood heat. "Wring
the silk from the tin solution and work it in
the cochineal solution for \ hour ; then let it
steep for several hours well under the liquor ;
wash out well in cold water. If the shade is
not blue enough, add to the water a little
cochineal dissolved in ammonia; work in it for
10 minutes, wring out and dry.
247. Common Red. Work the goods
for 15 minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds
peachwood and 1 pound fustic ; lift, and add
4 fluid ounces red spirits (see No. 108) ;
work for 15 minutes, wash in cold water and
finish.
Different shades are made by varying the
proportions, and claret tints are obtained by
adding a little logwood. These common dyes
are apt to fade.
248. Cochineal Pink. This is dyed in
the same manner as cochineal crimson (see
No. 246), using -much less cochineal ; about
half a pound makes a good pink, and inter-
mediate shades are produced by adjusting the
proportion of cochineal.
249. Cochineal Scarlet. First dye a
deep annotto orange (see No. 159) ; then dye
a cochineal crimson according to N"o. 246.
250. Mixture for Dyeing Common
Reds. Make a strong decoction by boiling 1
pound limawood or brazilwood to each gal-
lon of water. Let the wood settle ; decant
the liquor, and let it stand to cool for 24 hours;
decant the clear liquor and add ^ pint plumb
spirits (see No. Ill) to every gallon of liquor ;
after standing a few hours it is ready for use.
251. Common Crimson. Put some of
the common red mixture (see No. 250) into a
copper or stoneware vessel, and work the
goods in it for •£ an hour; then wash out thor-
oughly, wring and dry.
252. Common Scarlet. Dye an annot-
to orange (see No. 159), then dye a common
crimson according to the last receipt.
253. Ruby, Maroon, &c. Take 1
pound cudbear, and boil in a bag for 15 min-
utes; and work the silk in this for -J an hour.
For a bluish tint, lift, and add 3 fluid ounces
liquid ammonia ; work 10 minutes, wring and
dry.
For a red tint, lift, and instead of the am-
monia, add 2 fluid ounces red spirits (see No.
108) ; work 10 minutes, wring and dry.
For a brownish hue, make a decoction of 1
pound cudbear and 4 ounces fustic ; work for
an hour ; lift, and add 2 ounces red spir-
its ; work for 10 minutes and finish.
For a deep violet hue, proceed as in the last
receipt, using 4 ounces logwood instead of the
fustic.
254. Sky Blue. To 1 pint sulphate of
indigo add 2 or 3 gallons boiling water ; steep
in this a piece of woolen cloth, such as an old
blanket, for a day ; take it out and wash in
old water.
If the sky blue is required to be light, warm
some water in a vessel to about 98° Fahr.,
steep the woolen cloth in it for a few minutes,
and wring out ; this will leave sufficient blue
in the water to dye the silk ; add 1 ounce
alum in solution, and work the silk in it for 20
minutes ; wring out and dry.
255. Dark Blue. If a deep blue be re-
quired, blue the water as before with the
woolen cloth, add 1 ounce pearlash; then
add 1 ounce alum in solution, with a few-
drops of sulphuric acid ; then work the silk in
it as before.
4=4=
THE AET OF DYEING.
Half an ounce of indigo extract (see No.
99) may be used for bluing the water, instead
of using the woolen cloth for that purpose.
The exact quantity of indigo extract depends
on the shade of blue required.
256. Sky Blue Dye for Silks. For
5 pounds of silk goods, add to a suffi-
cient quantity of water to work the goods $
pint of nitrate of iron ; work in this for 20
minutes, then wash out in cold water. Into
another vessel of cold water add 3 ounces
ferrocyanide of potassium in solution, and 1
fluid ounce of strong sulphuric acid; work
through this for 10 minutes, then wash in
cold water with 1 ounce of alum dissolved in
it, and finish.
257. Royal Blue. Into a vessel of cold
water add 2 pints nitrate of iron; then take 1
pint water and % pint of hydrochloric acid,
and add to it 3 ounces crystals of tin ; when
dissolved, add this (or 1 pint chloride of tin)
to the vessel containing the iron; stir well
and work the goods in it immediately for half
an hour. Into another tub dissolve 8 ounces
of the ferrocyanide, and add to it 2 fluid ounces
of sulphuric acid ; the goods are wrung out of
the iron solution, and put directly into this
second vessel, and worked for 15 minutes ;
then wash out in cold water with 2 ounces of
alum dissolved in it, and finish. If the shade
is not sufficiently deep, before washing them
in the alum water, they may be passed through
the iron solution, and the ferrocyanide solution,
working in each the same time as at first, only
adding 2 ounces more ferrocyanide before
passing the goods through the second time ;
then finish as before stated. Deeper shades
are obtained by using more iron and tin, or
by repeating the dips. Some wash out the
iron solution in water before going into the
ferrocyanide, and also wash it again in clean
water before putting back into the iron ; the
shade will not be so deep, but there is less
risk of an unequal color.
258. Bich Deep Blue Dye for Silk
Goods. To dye 5 pounds of silk goods, add
to the water required to work the silk, 2 pints
chloride of iron and \ pint double muriate or
chloride of tin ; work in this half an hour;
lift, and work in a solution of 8 ounces ferro-
cyanide of potassium; if the color be not
deep enough, repeat the operation through
both solutions; then wash out in water in
which 2 ounces of alum have been dissolved.
259. Deep Blue Dye for "Woolen Goods.
To dye 5 pounds woolen goods, add to the
requisite quantity of water, 2 pints chloride
of iron and 1 pint chloride of tin; work in this
for half an hour; lift, and work half an hour
in a bath with 4 ounces of the ferrocyanide.
If the color is required to be deeper, repeat
this through the same stuff, adding 2 ounces
more ferrocyanide ; then wash out in cold wa-
ter, and dry.
260. Lavender. Add 1 pint plumb li-
quor (see No. Ill) to sufficient water to work
the goods easily ; stir well and work in this
for 20 minutes, then wash in cold water and
dry. A darker or lighter tint is obtained by
using more or less plumb liquor.
If a blue tint is required, add to the solution
before putting in the goods, 2 or 3 drops either
of sulphate, or of extract of indigo. (See
Nos. 98 and 99).
261. Fine Lavender. Into a vessel of
water as hot as the hand can bear, dissolve a
little white soap — enough to raise a lather;
then add 1 gill archil liquor, and work the
goods for 15 minutes, wring out and dry. To
obtain a redder tint, boil 1 ounce cudbear,
and use instead of the archil liquor. A still
redder tint is attainable by leaving out the
soap altogether.
262. Violet, Lilac, Wine Color, &c.
"Work the goods for 20 minutes in plumb li-
quor (see No. Ill) in a copper pan or stone-
ware vessel ; wash out repeatedly until the
goods cease to taste of the liquor, then dry.
To obtain a rich blue shade, add to the plumb
liquor 1 fluid ounce either sulphate or extract
of indigo. For a red shade, first dye a laven-
der by cudbear without soap. (See No. 261.)
263. French and Pearl White. Dis-
solve in hot water sufficient white soap to
make a lather ; then add ^ fluid ounce archil
liquor; work the goods for 10 minutes, and
wash out. A little cudbear may be used in-
stead of archil, less or more, according to the
shade required.
264. French and Pearl White. Put
1 fluid ounce plumb liquor (see No. Ill) into
a vessel of cold water ; work the goods in it
for 10 minutes; wash out and dry. For these
shades the goods must be perfectly white
(see No. 233) previous to dyeing.
265. Weld Yellow. Work the silk for
an hour in a solution of alum, about 1 pound
to the gallon ; wring out and wash in warm
water. Boil 2 pounds weld, strain the liquor,
and work the silk in it for 30 minutes ; lift,
and add 1 pint of the alum in solution, to the
weld liquor ; work the silk 10 minutes longer,
wring out and dry.
This gives a rich lemon yellow; deeper
shades are made by using more weld : straw
and amber tints are obtained by the' use of a
little annotto.
266. Bark Yellow. The process is the
same as for dyeing weld yellow, using 2
pounds bark instead of the weld. The bark
should be boiled in a bag.
267. Deep Rich Yellow. Proceed as
in the receipt for bark yellow ; except that,
after lifting, instead of a pint of the alum so-
lution, 2 fluid ounces single chloride of tin
are added to the bark liquor ; work 10 min-
utes, wash in water, and finish in a solution of
white soap.
268. Gold and Straw. To warm water
containing white soap, add 2 pints annotto li-
quor (see No. 95), work in this 15 minutes ;
wash out, then work for 20 minutes in a de-
coction of 8 ounces bark; lift, and add 1
fluid ounce red spirits (see No. 108) ; work
10 minutes more, wash out and finish. Dif-
ferent quantities of annotto and bark produce
different shades.
269. Nankeen, Buff, &c. Make a so-
lution of soap in warm water, add to it 1 pint
annotto liquor (see No. 95) ; work in this for
20 minutes, wring put and finish; a deeper
shade is obtained by' using more annotto.
270. Salmon, "Flesh, &c. Dye a nan-
keen according to the previous receipt, and
add 2 ounces alum in solution to the cold wa-
ter used for finishing.
271. Orange. "Work the silk for 15 min-
utes in a strong warm solution of annotto
THE AET OF DYEING.
(see No. 95) ; wash out in warm water and
dry.
272. Yellow Drab. Into a vessel of
warm water put 1 pint annotto liquor (see
No. 95); work for 15 minutes and wash; then
work for 15 minutes in a decoction of £ pound
sumach and 1 pound fustic ; lift, and add 4
ounces copperas and 1 ounce alum in solution;
work 10 minutes, wash in cold water and dry.
A variety of drabs may be dyed in this way
by varying the proportions of the sumach
and fustic, and by introducing a little logwood
or peach wood.
273. Drab. Work for 15 minutes in a
decoction of 8 ounces sumach and 8 ounces
fustic ; lift, and add 4 ounces copperas ; work
for 20 minutes, and wash out in cold water ;
then work 15 minutes in a vessel of warm
water containing £ pint archil liquor, and dry.
274. Greenish Drab. For a greenish
drab, add to the archil liquor a decoction of 4
ounces fustic and •£ fluid ounce chemic. (See
No. 162).
For a purple tint, use 1 ounce alum in solu-
tion, instead of the chemic.
275. Slate or Stone 'Color. Work the
silk for 30 minutes in a decoction of 1 pound
sumach, 4 ounces fustic, and 4 ounces logwood;
lift, and add a solution of 4 ounces copperas ;
work 30 minutes more, wash in cold water,
and finish.
For different tints, vary the proportion of
sumach, <fcc.
276.' Common Green. Steep for an
hour in a solution of 1 pound alum to the
gallon of water ; wash in warm water, then
work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 6
pounds fustic ; lift, and add 2 fluid ounces in-
digo extract (see No. 99) ; work for 30 min-
utes more, wash and finish. For blue-green
use more indigo extract. Darker or lighter
shades are dyed by using more or less in pro-
portion of each ingredient.
277. Green. Work for 40 minutes in a
decoction of 4 pounds fustic ; lift, and add 1
Sound alum in solution, and 2 fluid ounces in-
igo extract (see No. 99) ; work in this for 30
minutes, wash out in cold water containing £
pint alum solution, and finish.
278. Pea Green. Steep for an hour in a
solution of 8 ounces alum to the gallon of wa-
ter, then wash out in warm water ; boil 4
pounds ebony wood chips for an hour ; take
the clear liquor and work the silk in it for 30
minutes ; lift, and add £ fluid ounce indigo
extract (see No. 99) ; work for 10 minutes ;
wash in cold water containing £ pint alum so-
lution, and dry.
The indigo extract must be added with cau-
tion, as too much will make the green too
blue; it is safer to add less, and then, if ne-
cessary, lift, and add more.
279. Bottle Green. Work for an hour
in a solution of 2 pounds alum and 1 pound
copperas; wash out in warm water, then
work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 6
pounds fustic ; lift, and add 2 fluid ounces in-
digo extract (see No. 99) ; work for 20 min-
utes, wash out and finish.
280. Bottle Green. Proceed exactly as
for common green (see No. 276) with the ad-
dition of 1 pound logwood to the 6 pounds
fustic. The addition of a little more logwood
makes a still deeper shade if required.
281 . Olive. Work the silk for 30 minutes
in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 4 ounces
alum ; wash out in hot water, then work for
30 minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds fustic
and 4 ounces logwood; lift, and add 2 ounces
alum in solution; work 10 minutes, wash and
dry.
A little chemic (see No. 162) added to the
last wash water will induce a greener hue if
required. •
282. Light Olive. Dye a light Prussian
blue (see No. 256) ; then work for 20 minutes
in a decoction of 2 pounds fustic and £ pint
archil liquor; lift, and add 1 ounce alum in
solution; work 10 minutes and finish.
283. To Dye Mixed Fabrics Two
Colors. Mixed fabrics of cotton and wool,
such as coburgs, damasks, &c., may be dyed
all of one color, or the cotton and wool in
them each dyed a different color. This is
seldom done except with new goods, or with
very light colored goods which are desired to
be dyed dark colors. As the process for dye-
ing woolens will seldom impart the same color
to cottons, the two are dyed separately, and
the method is quite simple. For most colors
it is necessary to dye the woolen portion first,
and then the cotton ; but in a few cases the
cotton must be the first to be acted on.
284. Green and Pink. First dye the
woolen green by either of the methods given
in Nos. 206, 207, &c. The cotton is then
dyed pink, according to receipt No. 248.
285. Green and Crimson. Dye the
woolen by working for an hour in 2 pounds
tartar, 4 pounds alum, and 6 pounds fustic ;
lift, and add £ pint indigo extract (see No. 99) ;
wash out, and lay over night in 6 pounds su-
mach ; then work for 30 minutes in red spirits
(see No. 108) made to a strength of H°
Baume; wash out, and work for an hour in 5
pounds peachwood at blood heat; lift, and
add a little alum; work in this, then wash
out and finish.
286. Blue and Orange. First dye the
cotton by the blue vat (see No. 130), wash
out, and then dye the woolen by working an
hour in a bath made up of 2 pounds tartar, 8
ounces cochineal, 2 pounds fustic, and 2 pints
bichloride of tin ; wash and dry.
In this way almost any two colors may be
dyed upon woolen and cotton, although woven
together, by proceeding according to the re-
ceipt for the color required on each sort of
fibre. The wool is always dyed first, except-
ing in the case where the cotton is dyed in
the blue vat, when the cotton has to be
treated first. The same principle is applica-
ble to silk and woolen fabrics, although in
many cases the silk becomes more imbued
than the cotton by the woolen dyes. A mix-
ture of silk and cotton can be dyed in the
same manner, but it is much more difficult,
and cannot be done with all kinds of colors,
and the process is seldom resorted to. But
the intelligent dyer will be able to combine a
variety of tints by following the rules and re-
ceipts given. .
287. To Dye Mixed Fabrics one Col-
or. If the mixed fabrics are required to be
dyed one uniform color, the double process
has often to be adopted, especially for cotton
and woolen fabrics, thus :
288. Black on Cotton and Woolen
THE AET OF DYEING.
Goods. First dye the woolen according to
No. 192 ; then, after steeping the goods in su-
mach, dye the cotton by receipt No. 139.
289. Brown on Cotton and Woolen
Goods by one Process. "Work for 2 hours
in catechu, as in No. 147; then work at a boil-
ing heat for an hour with 8 ounces bichromate
of potassa and 2 ounces tartar ; next work for
an hour in 2 pounds fustic and 8 ounces cud-
bear ; wash and dry. For a deeper shade, or
of a more chocolate hue, add 4 ounces log-
wood to the cudbear.
290. Black on Silk and Woolens by
one Process. "Work for an hour in a solu-
tion of 8 ounces tartar and 8 ounces copperas;
wash out, then work for 15 minutes in a de-
coction of 4 pounds logwood ; lift, and add
1 ounce chrome; work for 30 minutes and
dry.
29 1 . Black on Cotton, Silk and Wool,
by one Process. Steep for 6 hours in 2
pounds sumach ; then work for an hour in a
solution of 6 ounces tartar, 6 ounces sulphate
of copper, and 6 ounces copperas ; wash out,
and then work for half an hour in a decoction
of 4 pounds logwood ; lift, and add 1 ounce
copperas; work for 10 minutes, wash and
dry.
292. Deep Black. To obtain a very
deep black, add 1 pound of bark to the log-
wood, and proceed as in last receipt.
293. Drabs on Cotton, Silk and Wool,
by one Process. Work for half an hour in
8 ounces copperas and 4 ounces tartar; lift
and drain ; then work for half an hour in 4
ounces logwood and 1 ounce bichromate of
potassa ; wash out and dry. By varying the
quantity of logwood, and by introducing a
little fustic or peach wood in combination with
the logwood, a great variety of drabs, slates
or fawns can be produced.
These few receipts for mixed fabrics will
show the care required in such operations, al-
though, by practice, they become compara-
tively simple.
294. To Detect Animal or Vegetable
Fibres. Treat the fabric with bichloride of
tin heated to from 130° to 150° Fahr., when
the cotton and linen become black, and the
wool and silk remain unchanged.
295. To Detect Mixed Fabrics of Cot-
ton and Wool. Dip a piece of the cloth in
bleaching liquor; after a little while the
woolen turns yellow, and the cotton white,
and may easily be distinguished.
296. To Detect Cotton in Linen. The
piece to be tested should be boiled to remove
all dressing, and then dried ; put a portion of
the piece into common vitriol for about one
minute ; take it out and wash it in water sev-
eral times, and then into a weak solution of
soda or potash, and all the gummy matter
formed is removed by gentle rubbing. By
this process the cotton is dissolved and the
linen remains, or any portion of the cotton
that is not dissolved becomes opaque white,
while the linen is transparent. By comparing
the portion thus tested, with a similar portion
not tried, the quantity of cotton present can
easily be estimated.
297. To Detect Cotton in Linen. Take
a small piece of the cloth, boil in water and
dry; then take 3 parts, by weight, of sul-
phuric acid, and 2 parts of crushed nitrate of
potassa; put the dry piece of cloth in this
mixture for 6 or 7 minutes, and then wash it
in water until there is no taste of acid ; dry it
at a gentle heat; next put it into a mixture of
ether and alcohol, which will dissolve the cot-
ton and not the linen. If the piece be
weighed before and after putting it into the
ether and alcohol, the quantity of cotton in
the fabric can be accurately ascertained.
298. To Distinguish Cotton and Wool.
Take a small piece of the cloth and boil in
caustic soda ; the wool will be dissolved, and
the cotton remain. If the threads have been
previously counted, their relative mixture can
be found.
299. To Detect Cotton with Silk or
Wool. Put a piece of the cloth into chlorine
water or bleaching liquor. The cotton is
whitened, and the silk and wool turn yellow,
and can easily be distinguished by the aid of
a pocket lens.
300. To Detect Cotton in Silk or Wool.
Take a small piece and unravel the threads,
and inflame them; the cotton burns away
freely and leaves little or no black charcoal ;
the wool and silk shrivel up, leave a black
charcoal, and give a strong smell.
Decidedly the best and safest method, and
one applicable in all cases, is a microscopic
examination, by which not only the structure,
but also the nature of the fibre can be de-
monstrated. Cotton, wool and silk are easily
distinguished by the microscope, as they dif-
fer materially in appearance. Cotton forms
flat, narrow ribbons, curled up in spirals like
those of a corkscrew ; wool fibre is stouter
than all others, and may be recognized by its
scaly surface, while silk is the thinnest fibre,
has the smoothest surface, and possesses the
least structure. These appearances. are very
characteristic, and any one who has observed
them once will ever afterwards recognize
them again at first sight.
301 . To Distinguish Silk and Wool in
Fabrics. Silk can always be identified in
a mixture with any other animal or vegetable
fibre by means of concentrated hydrochloric
acid, which dissolves it completely and im-
mediately, without appreciably affecting any
woolen or woody fibre with which the silk
may have been interwoven. Strong sul-
phuric acid has also a powerful solvent effect
upon silk, and is likewise much more destruc-
tiveinitsactionuponcottonthan theother acid.
Should it be desired to determine the nature
of any fibres remaining after the solution of
the silk, it is first necessary to wash and col-
lect them, when they will usually be found
destitute of color. To decide whether wool
is present or absent, a s61ution of picric acid
may be employed, which instantly imparts a
iull yellow tint to the wool, but does not in
;he least affect cotton, linen, or China grass ;
so that it is only necessary to immerse the
fabric in the dye, wring it out, and wash well
with water. Should any portion remain of a
fellow color, the presence of wool is indicated.
Dther methods can be employed similar in
jrinciple, but the picric acid is believed to be
jest. Discrimination between the different
finds of fibre can best be prosecuted by means
of the microscope, but their quantity is best
bund by dissolving away one fibre, as already
directed, and weighing.
FAMILY DYEING RECEIPTS.
4,7
Family Dyeing Receipts.
The following receipts and directions are
excellent for dyeing on a small scale, and es-
pecially adapted for family use. The ingredi-
ents required can be obtained at any color
store.
303. Black for Worsted or Woolen.
Dissolve I ounce bichromate of potash in 3 gal-
lons water. Boil the goods in this 40 minutes ;
then wash in cold water. Then take 3 gal-
lons water, add 9 ounces logwood, 3 ounces
fustic, and one or two drops, D. 0. V., or
Double Oil of Yitriol ; boil the goods 40 min-
utes, and wash out in cold water. This will
dye from 1 to 2 pounds of cloth, or a lady's
dress, if of a dark color, as brown, claret, &c.
All colored dresses with cotton warps should
be previously steeped 1 hour in sumach li-
quor ; and then soaked for 30 minutes in 3
gallons of clean water, with 1 cupful of ni-
trate of iron (see No. 116) ; then it must be
well washed, and dyed as first stated.
304. Black for Silk. Dye the same as
black for worsted; but previously steep the silk
in the following liquor: scald 4 ounces logwood,
and i ounce turmeric in 1 pint boiling water ;
then add 7 pints cold water. Steep 30 or 40
minutes ; take out, and add 1 ounce sulphate
of iron (copperas), dissolved in hot water;
steep the silk 30 minutes longer.
305. Brown for Worsted or Wool.
"Water, 3 gallons ; bichromate of potash, £
ounce. Boil the goods in this 40 minutes ;
wash out in cold water. Then take 3 gallons
water, 6 ounces peachwood, and 2 ounces
turmeric. Boil the goods in this 40 minutes ;
wash out.
306. Imperial Blue for Silk, Wool,
and Worsted. "Water, 1 gallon ; sulphuric
acid, a wine-glassful ; imperial blue, 1 table-
spoonful or more, according to the shade re-
quired. Put in the silk, worsted, or wool,
and boil 10 minutes ; wash in a weak solution
of soap lather.
307. Sky Blue for Worsted and Wool-
en. "Water, 1 gallon ; sulphuric acid, a wine-
glassful ; glauber salts in crystals, 2 table-
spoonfuls; liquid extract of indigo, 1 tea-
spoonful. Boil the goods about 15 minutes ;
rinse in cold water.
308. Claret for Wool or Worsted.
A Short Way of Dyeing the Same.
Water, 3 gallons; cudbear, 12 ounces; log-
wood, 4 ounces; old fustic, 4 ounces; alum, %
ounce. Boil the goods in it 1 hour. "Wash.
This will dye from 1 to 2 pounds of material.
309. Crimson for Worsted or Wool.
"Water, 3 gallons ; paste cochineal, 1 ounce ;
crearn of tartar, 1 ounce ; nitrate of tin (see
No. 113), a wine-glassful. Boil your goods in
this 1 hour. Wash first irfreold water, then
in another vessel with 3 gallons warm water
with a cupful of ammonia, the whole well
mixed. Put in the goods and work well 15
minutes. For a bluer shade add more ammo-
nia. Then wash out.
310. Fawn Drab for Silk. Hot wa-
ter, 1 gallon; annotto liquor (see No. 95), 1
wine-glassful ; 2 ounces each of sumach and
fustic. Add copperas liquor according to the
required shade. "Washout. It is 'best to use
the copperas liquor in another vessel, diluted
according to the shade desired.
311. Dark Drab for Silk maybe ob-
tained by using a little archil and extract of
indigo.
312. Flesh Color for Dyeing Silk.
Boiling water, 1 gallon ; put in 1 ounce white
soap, and 1 ounce pearlash. Mix well, then
add a cupful of annotto liquor. (See No. 95.)
Put the silk through several times, and pro-
portion the liquor till you obtain the required
shade.
313. Salmon Color for Silk may be ob-
tained by first passing through the above li-
quor, and then through diluted muriate of
tin. (See No. 113.)
314. Magenta for Silk, Wool or Wors-
ted. Water, 1 gallon, heated up to 180 de-
grees ; and magenta liquor, 1 tablespoonful ;
stir it well up. This will dye a broad ribbon
4 yards long, or a pair of small stockings.
To dye a larger quantity of material, add
more magenta liquor and water. The shade
of color may be easily regulated by using
more or less. Magenta Pink may be obtained
by increased dilution.
315. Mauve for Silk, Wool or Wors-
ted. Water, 1 gallon ; add 1 table-spoonful
sulphuric acid; then heat to boiling point.
For a very light mauve, add 1 tea-spoonful im-
perial violet liquor ; boil the same amount of
material, as stated under Magenta, about 10
minutes. Kinse in cold water. If the color
be too deep, use a little soap in rinsing, using
warm water.
316. Violet Color for Worsted may be
produced by using a table-spoonful of violet
liquor instead of a tea-spoonful.
317. Pea Green for Silk. To 1 quart
water, put £ tea-spoonful picric acid, and rath-
er more than £ wine-glassful sulphuric acid,
and a tea-spoonful paste extract of indigo ;
boil about 5 minutes, then add water to cool
it down to blood heat, or 100° Fahr. Put in
the silk, and work it about 20 minutes. The
shade may be varied by adding more or less of
the picric acid, or extract of indigo ; if more
of either be added, boil separately in a little
water, and add to the previous liquor.
318. Pea Green for Worsted. Use the
same materials as the aforesaid ; but boil all
the time in 1 gallon of water for about 20 or
30 minutes.
319. Dark Green for Worsted. This
may be obtained by using a larger quantity
of material, in the same way as the last.
320. Plum Color for Worsted, Silk
or Cotton. Water, 1 gallon ; sulphuric acid,
1 tea-spoonful ; glauber salts, in crystals, 2
table-spoonfuls; violet liquor, 1 table-spoonful;
magenta liquor, % table-spoonful. Boil the
article (silk, wool or worsted), about 10 min-
utes.
321. Remarks on Dyeing Cotton.
Cotton should be dyed the above colors sepa-
rately, and by first running them through
weak gall liquor, and weak double muriate of
tin. Then wash well, and work in the afore-
said liquor, according to color and shade.
The dyeing liquor should be cold.
322. Scarlet on Worsted or Wool.
3 gallons water, 2 ounces dry cochineal, 1
ounce cream of tartar, 1 wine-glassful nitrate
of tin; boil the goods 1 hour. To give the
goods a yellower hue, add a little young fus-
tic to the above mixture. Wash out as before.
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
323. Yellow for Dyeing Silk. Pro-
ceed the same as in dyeing pea green, omit-
ting the extract of indigo, and using oxaliq
tin instead of sulphuric acid.
324. To Dye Feathers. First steep
them a few hours in warm water.
325. Blue may be dyed by extract of in-
digo and boiling water. Simmer over the fire
a Few minutes.
326. Green. Verdigris and verditer, 1
ounce each ; and gum water. Dip the feath-
ers. Or mix the indigo liquor with Persian
berry liquor.
327. Iiilac. Use cudbear and hot water.
328. Bed. Brazil wood, a little vermil-
ion and alum, and vinegar. Boil 30 minutes,
and then dip the feathers.
329. Yellow, by turmeric.
330. Scarlet, by cochineal, cream of tar-
tar, and muriate of tin. (See No. 113.)
331. To Dye Dove or Slate Color.
Boil a teacup of black tea in an iron pot, add-
ing a tea-spoonful of copperas. The depth of
color will depend on the quantity of 'water
used. Dye the articles in this and then hang
them up to drain, finally rinsing out in soap-
suds.
332. Aniline Red. This produces a
color varying from the deepest crimson to a
very brilliant and beautiful rose pink, accord-
ing to the strength of the dye. All that is
necessary is to enclose the aniline in a small
muslin bag, and having a kettle (tin or brass)
filled with moderately hot water, rub the sub-
stance out. Then immerse the articles to be
colored, and in a short time they are done.
The dye is so readily absorbed that care is re-
quired to prevent spotting. No mordant is
required, although it improves the color to
wring the goods out of strong soapsuds before
putting them in the dye. This is a permanent
color for woolen or silk.
333. Aniline Blue. To 100 pounds of
fabric dissolve 1£ pounds aniline blue in 3
quarts hot alcohol; strain through a filter
and add it to a bath of 130° Fah.; also 10
pounds glauber salts, and 5 pounds acetic
acid. Enter the goods and handle them well
for 20 minutes ; next heat it slowly to 200°
Fah.; then add 5 pounds sulphuric acid di-
luted with water. Let the whole boil 20 min-
utes longer, then rinse and dry^ If the ani-
line be added in two or three proportions dur-
ing the process of coloring, it will facilitate
the evenness of the color. Hard and close
wove fabrics, such as braid, ought to be pre-
pared in a boiling solution of 10 pounds sul-
phuric acid and 2 pounds tartaric acid before
coloring with the aniline, as this will make
the fabric more susceptible to the color.
334. To Dye Hats. A bath for dyeing
12 dozen hats consists of 144 pounds logwood,
12 pounds green sulphate of iron or copperas,
7£ pounds verdigris. The copper is made of
a semi-cylindrical shape, and should be sur-
rounded with an iron jacket, or case, into
which steam may be admitted, so as to raise
the temperature of the interior bath to 190°
Fah., but no higher ; otherwise the heat is
apt to affect the stiffening varnish, called the
gum, with which the body of the hat has
been imbued. The logwood having been in-
troduced and digested for some time, the cop-
peras and verdigris are added in successive
quantities, and in the above proportions,
along with every successive two or three doz-
en of hats suspended upon the dipping ma-
chine. Each set of hats, after being exposed
to the bath, with occasional airings, during 40
minutes, is taken off the pegs, and laid out
upon the ground to be more completely black-
ened by the peroxydizement of the iron with
the atmospheric oxygen. In 3 or 4 hours the
dyeing is completed. "When fully dyed, the
hats are well washed in running water.
335. Spirit Stiffening for Hats. 7
pounds orange shellac ; 2 pounds gum sanda-
rac ; 4 ounces gum mastic ; £ pound amber
resin ; 1 pint solution of copal ; 1 gallon spir-
it of wine, or wood naphtha. •
The shellac, sandarac, mastic, and resin are
dissolved in the spirit, and the solution of co-
pal is added last.
336. Alkali Stiffening for Hats. 7
pounds common block shellac ; 1 pound am-
ber resin ; 4 ounces gum thus ; 4 ounces gum
mastic ; 6 ounces borax ; ^ pint solution of
copal.
The borax is first dissolved in about 1 gal-
lon warm water. This alkaline liquor is put
into a copper pan (heated by steam), together
with the shellac, resin, thus, and mastic, and
allowed to boil for some time, more warm wa-
ter being added occasionally until it is of a
proper consistence ; this may be known by
pouring a little on a cold slab, somewhat in-
clined, and if the liquor runs off at the lower
end, it is sufficiently fluid. If, on the con-
trary, it sets before it reaches the bottom, it
requires more water. "When the whole of the
gums seem dissolved, £ pint of wood naphtha
must be introduced, with the solution of co-
pal ; then the liquor must be passed through
a fine sieve, and it will be perfectly clear and
ready for use. This stiffening is used hot.
The hat bodies, before they are stiffened,
should be steeped in a weak solution of soda
in water, to destroy any acid that may have
been left in them (as sulphuric acid is used in
the making of the bodies. ) If this is not at-
tended to, should the hat body contain any
acid when it is dipped into the stiffening, the
alkali is neutralized, and the gums conse-
quently precipitated. After the body has
been steeped in the alkaline solution, it
must be perfectly dried in the stove before
the stiffening is applied ; when stiffened and
stoved, it must be steeped all eight in water
to which a small quantity of the sulphuric
acid has been added ; this sets the stiffening
in the hat body, and finishes the process.
To Remove Stains, Spots,
<fec. The following receipts embrace
directions for cleaning, and removing stains of
every kind, from clothing, linen, etc., and ar-
ticles pertaining to the household. Receipts
for cleansing other articles will be found else-
where under their appropriate headings.
338. To Remove Resin Spots from
Silk. Stains by wax, resin, turpentine,
pitch, and substances of a resinous nature,
may be removed by pure alcohol. It frequent-
ly happens that when common turpentine is
employed to remove grease, varnish or paint
stains from silk, the turpentine itself leaves a
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
stain almost as objectionable as the original
one, which it was used to remove. These
stains are due to the resin which is held in so-
lution by the turpentine, and which remains
in the silk after the volatile or spirituous por-
tion has evaporated. Alcohol applied to the
stains with a clean sponge will remove the
spots, because alcohol dissolves the resin.
The silk stains should be moistened with the
alcohol first, and allowed to remain soaked
for a few minutes. Fresh alcohol is then ap-
plied with the sponge, and with a slight rub-
bing motion. It is then wiped as dry as pos-
sible and afterward permitted to dry perfectly
in the open air.
339. To Remove Pitch, Varnish, or
Oil-paint Stains. "When pitch, varnish, or
oil-paint stains have become dry, they should
be softened with a little butter or lard, before
using turpentine and soap. In these cases, a
simple way is to soak the part in spirits of
turpentine, and, when softened, to wash it off
with the same fluid. Burning-fluid combines
the solvent powers of both alcohol and tur-
pentine. Benzine is also good. Chloroform
will also remove paint from a garment when
almost everything else fails. The fats, resins,
and unctuous oils, are dissolved by essential
oils, as oil of turpentine. Common spirits of
turpentine, however, requires to be purified by
re-distillation, or it will leave a resinous stain
upon the spot where it is used. (See last re-
ceipt.)
340. To Remove Paint Stains from
Clothes. Chloroform is an excellent medium
for the removal of stains of paint from clothes,
etc. It is found that portions of dry white
paint, which resisted the action of ether, ben-
zole, and bisulphide of carbon, are at once
dissolved by chloroform. If the paint is
fresh, turpentine or alcohol will remove it.
(See No. 338.)
341. To Remove Wax Stains from
Silk. Mix powdered French chalk with lav-
ender water to the thickness of mustard.
Put it on the stain, and rub it gently with the
finger or palm of the hand. Put a sheet of
clean blotting paper and brown paper over it,
and smooth it with a warm iron. "When dry
the chalk must be removed, and the silk gent-
ly dusted with a white handkerchief. If a
faint mark still remains, a second application
of Frenrfh chalk and lavender water will gen-
erally remove it. If the wax stain has fallen
thickly on the silk, it should be removed first
carefully with a penknife.
342. To Remove Wax Spots from
Cloth. Remove, by scraping with a knife,
as much of the wax as you can without injury
to the fabric ; drop benzine on the spot, then
with a sponge rub it gently ; repeat it till the
spot disappears.
343. To Remove Spermaceti, or
Stearine Stains. To remove spots of
spermaceti, scrape off as much as you can
with a knife, then lay a thin, soft, white blot-
ting paper upon the spots, and press it with a
warm iron. By repeating this you will draw
out the spermaceti. Afterwards rub the cloth
where the spots have been, with some very
soft brownish paper.
344. To Remove Grease Spots. To
do this without injury to the color of the fab-
ric, is sometimes easy, frequently most diffi-
cult, and often impossible. Much may de-
pend upon skillful and persevering manipula-
tion ; and although various agents are often-
times valuable, yet good soap, after all, is the
chief reliance. Grease spots may generally
be removed by the patient application of soap
and soft water, but other means are also em-
ployed. Ox-gall is an excellent and delicate
cleansing agent. It is a liquid soda soap. It
removes grease, and is said to fix and bright-
en colors, though it has a greenish tinge,
which is bad for the purity of white articles.
Aqua ammonia is also good for removing
grease spots from any fabric. Use the ammo-
nia nearly pure, and then lay white blotting
paper over the spot and iron it lightly. (See
also No. 126.)
345. To Remove Grease and Dirt
from Cloth and Woolen Articles. Place
a cotton or woolen cloth, or a piece of blot-
ting paper, under the article to be cleansed,
then rub upon the spots some pure benzine,
and the grease or dirt will disappear as if by
magic.
Be sure to place a cloth under the garment
to be operated upon, otherwise a circular stain
will remain, which cannot be removed. The
benzine drives the grease through the article
to be cleaned, and is absorbed by the cloth
placed under it. After the spot is removed,
continue to rub with a dry cloth until the
benzine is evaporated; this also is done to
avoid a stain.
346. Cautions about Benzine. From
the facility with which it removes grease
spots from fabrics, this substance has come to
be regarded almost as a household indispensa-
ble. But few persons, however, realize the
explosive character of benzine or the dangers
attending the careless handling of the liquid.
Being one of the most volatile and inflamma-
ble products resulting from the distillation of
petroleum, it vaporizes with great rapidity, so
that the contents of a 4 ounce vial, if over-
turned, would render the air of a moderate
sized room highly explosive. The greatest
care should be exercised in handling this sub-
stance, in proximity to fire, and it is import-
ant to remember that the vapor escaping from
an uncorked bottle will cause a flame to leap
over a space of several feet.
347. To Remove Grease from Cloth.
Take 1 quart lime ; add thereto as much wa-
ter as will dissolve the lime and leave about 1
quart clear water after it has been well stirred
and settled. Let it stand about two hours,
and then pour off the clear liquid into another
vessel. Now add to it \ an ounce of pearlash;
stir it well, and, when settled, bottle it for use.
This liquor is to be diluted with water, to suit
the strength or delicacy of the color of the
cloth. It is applied with a piece of coarse
sponge, rubbing out the grease, and applying
clear water afterwards.
This is one of the best receipts known for
the extraction of grease ; but it is destructive
to certain vegetable colors.
348. To Remove Grease Spots from
Cloth. Soft soap, and fuller^ earth, of each
\ pound ; beat well together in a mortar, and
form into cakes. The spot, first moistened
with water, is rubbed with a cake, and al-
lowed todry, whenitis wellrubbed with alittle
warm water, and rinsed or rubbed off clean.
5O
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
349. Scouring Balls. Dry fuller's earth,
moistened with the juice of lemons ; add a
small quantity of pearl ashes, and a little soft
soap ; knead the whole well together into a
thick elastic paste; form it into small balls
and dry them in the sun. "When used, moist-
en the spot on the clothes with water ; then
rub it with the ball, and let the spot dry in
the sun. "When washed with pure water the
spot will disappear.
350. To Remove Grease from Cloth
or Silk. Separate the yolk of an egg from
the white as perfectly as possible. Then
stretch the fabric on a board, and with a soft
clothes brush dip into the yolk, and rub the
spot with it until the grease seems loosened.
The yolk will not injure the most delicate
colors, but the rubbing may, if too severe.
Then rinse with warm rain water, rubbing the
edges with a damp cloth, and clapping the
whole between dry towels. If the stain is not
quite cone, repeat the process. It will not do
BO wefl for fabrics mixed with cotton or linen.
351. To Remove Grease from Silk or
Velvet. Rub the spots on the silk lightly
and rapidly with a clean soft cotton rag
dipped in chloroform, and the grease will im-
mediately disappear without injuring the col-
or of the silk. Repeat the operation if ne-
cessary. Be careful to rub the article rapidly
and lightly, then finish with a clean dry cloth.
If these precautions are not taken, a slight
stain is apt to be the result. Yery highly
rectified benzine, such as is prepared by the
first-class druggists, will also immediately
remove grease from the most delicate colored
silks.
352. To Remove Grease from Silk.
Take French chalk finely scraped, and put it
on the grease spot, holding it near the fire, or
over a warm iron reversed, or on a water-
plate in which is boiling water. This will
cause the grease to melt, and the French
chalk will absorb it, and it may then be
brushed or rubbed off; or, put a little pow-
dered French chalk on the spot, cover it with
a piece of white blotting-paper, and over that
a piece of brown wrapping paper, and apply a
hot flat-iron. If any grease remains, proceed
as before, until it is all extracted. The French
chalk is a fine soluble powder of a dry absorb-
ent quality, acting upon silks the same as
fuller's earth does upon cloth.
The above plans may be adopted when you
desire to extract the grease immediately; but
if time is not an object, proceed as follows :
Sprinkle pulverized French chalk upon the
spot and put the article in a dark place, and
in a few days the grease will entirely disap-
pear. We think this last method the best, as
the heat from the iron will sometimes injure
silk of a delicate tint.
353. To Remove Grease Spots from
Silk. Grease spots may be taken from
silks in the following manner: Upon a
wooden table lay a piece of woolen cloth or
baize, upon which lay smoothly the part
stained, with the right side downwards.
Having spread a piece of brown paper on the
top, apply a flat-iron just hot enough to
scorch the paper. About five or eight sec-
onds is usually sufficient. Repeat until the
spot is extracted. Then rub briskly with a
piece of writing paper. (See last receipt.)
354. French Scouring Drops for Re-
moving Grease. Campheiie, 8 ounces ; pure
alcohol, 1 ounce sulphuric ether, 1 ounce;
essence of lemon, 1 drachm; or, spirits of wine,
1 pint; white soap, 3 ounces; ox gall, 3 ounces;
essence of lemon, £ ounce.
355. To Remove Grease from Velvet.
Grease may be taken out of velvet by a little
turpentine, poured over the spot; then rub
briskly with a piece of clean dry flannel.
Repeat the application, if necessary, and hang
the article in the air, to remove the smelC
(See No. 351.)
356. Simple Method of Removing
Grease Spots from Silk. Take a visiting
or other card ; separate it, and rub the spot
with the soft internal part, and it will dis-
appear without taking the gloss off the silk.
This is a simple and valuable receipt. Bo
careful and rub the silk on the wrong side, as
the card sometimes will soil delicate colored
silks, but if the above precaution is taken, the
spot cannot be seen on the right side of the
silk.
357. To Remove Oil from Carpets.
To take oil out of a carpet, as soon as it is
spilled put on plenty of wheat flour or whi-
ting, to absorb the oil and keep it from spread'
ing. If the oil is near a seam, rip it, so that
the spot will not spread, and put whiting on
the floor under the carpet. Next day sweep
up all the flour above and under the carpet
with a stiff brush, and put on plenty of fresh
flour. To take out grease spots, rub them
with white flannel dipped in raw spirits of
turpentine. If they show after a while, rub
again on both sides. If there are grease spots
on the floor, remove them with potter's clay
before the carpet is laid down.
358. To take Grease Spots out of
Carpets. Mix a little soap into a gallon of
warm soft water, then add £ ounce 'of borax ;
wash the part well with a clean cloth, and
the grease or dirty spot will soon disappear.
359. To Remove Oil Stains from
Leather and Paper. Oil stains may be re-
moved from leather, paper, &c., by applying
pipe-clay, powdered and mixed with water to
the thickness of cream ; leave it on for four
hours. This will not injure the best colors.
360. Methods of Removing Various
Stains. Fruit-stains, wine-stains, and those
made by colored vegetable juices, are oftennear-
ly indelible, and require various treatment.
Thorough rubbing with soap and soft water ;
repeated dipping in sour butter-milk, and
drying in the sun ; rubbing on a thick mix-
ture of starch and cold water, and exposing
long to sun and air, are among the expedients
resorted to. Sulphurous acid is often em-
ployed to bleach out colors. It may be gener-
ated at the moment of using, by burning a
small piece of sulphur in the air, under the
wide end of a small paper funnel, whose upper
orifice is applied near the cloth. Coffee and
chocolate stains require careful soaping and
washing with water at 120°, followed by
sulphuration. If discoloration has been pro*
duced by acids, water of ammonia should be
applied ; if spots have been made by alkaline
substances, moderately strong vinegar may
be applied; if upon a delicate article, the
vinegar should be decolorized by filtering
through powdered charcoal.
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
51
361. The Effects of Acids and Alka-
lies upon Different Colors. The effect of
acids upon blacks, purples, blues (except
those produced by indigo or Prussian blue),
and upon all those shades of colors which are
produced by means of iron, archil, and as-
tringent substances, is to turn them red.
They render yellows more pale, except those
produced by annotto, which they turn to an
orange color.
Alkalies turn scarlets, and all reds produced
by Brazil or logwood, to a violet color ; they
turn green (upon woolen cloths) to yellow,
and they give a reddish cast to the yellow
produced by annotto. The effect of the
perspiration is the same as that of the alkalies.
Spots occasioned by acids are removed by
alkalies, and vice versd. (Sec last receipt.)
362. To Restore Colors that have
been Injured by the use of Re- Agents.
The colors of cloths are often injured by the
re-agents made use of in order to restore them
effectively ; when such is the case we must
not only understand the general principles of
the art of dyeing, but the nature and composi-
tion of the particular dye that was originally
employed for dyeing the cloth whose color is
to be restored, and thus enabled to modify the
means accordingly. Thus, when, after using
an alkali to remove an acid spot upon brown,
violet, or blue cloth, &c., there remains a
„ yellow spot, the original color is again pro-
duced by means of a solution of tin. A solu-
tion of the sulphate of iron restores the color
to those brown cloths which have been dyed
with galls. Acids give to yellow cloths which
have been rendered dull or brown by alkalies,
their original brightness. "When black cloths
dyed with logwood have any reddish spots
occasioned by acids, alkalies turn such spots
to a yellow color, and a little of the astringent
principle makes them black again. A solu-
tion of 1 part of indigo in 4 parts of sulphuric
acid, properly diluted with water, may be
successfully employed to restore a faded blue
color upon wool or cotton. Red or scarlet
colors may be restored by means of cochineal,
and a solution of muriate of tin, <fec. (See
No. 113.)
363. The Choice of Re-Agents for
Restoring Color. The choice of re-agents
is not a matter of indifference ; vegetable acid
(Decolorized Vinegar, see Index), is gener-
ally preferable to mineral acids. The sul-
phurous acid (see No. 360), however, may be
used for spots from fruit; it does not injure
blue upon silk, or the colors produced by as-
tringents ; nor does it afl'ect yellow upon cot-
ton. A volatile alkali ( Water of Ammonia)
succeeds better than a fixed alkali in remov-
ing spots produced by acids. They are usual-
ly made use of in the form of vapor, and act
quickly, seldom injuring the color of the cloth.
364. To Remove Fruit Stains. Spots
caused by finrit are removed by sulphurous
acid, or what is still better, by water acidu-
lated with a little muriatic or oxalic acid, or
Halt of lemons; but care must be taken not to
apply this liquid to colors that it will injure.
Alighted sulphur match held under the stain
will produce sufficient sulphurous acid.
365. To Remove Fruit and other
Stains from Linen. Fruit and other spots
on linen may be removed by applying to the
part, previously washed clean, a weak solu-
tion of chlorine, chloride of lime, spirits of
salts (muriatic acid), oxalic acid, or salts of
lemon, in warm water, and frequently by
merely using a little lemon juice. The part
should be again thoroughly rinsed in clear
warm water (without soap), and dried.
Many other stains may be taken out by
dipping the linen in sour butter-milk, and
drying it in a hot sun. Then wash it in cold
water, and dry it, 2 or 3 times a day.
366. To Remove Acid Stains from
Linen, &c. These may be removed by the
following methods : Wet the part and lay on
it some salt of wormwood (carbonate of
potassa) ; then rub it, without diluting it with
more water.
Or : Tie up in the stained part some pearl-
ash; then scrape some soap into cold soft
water to make a lather, and boil the linen till
the stain disappears.
367. To Remove Acid Stains from
Garments. Chloroform will restore the
color of garments, where the same has been
destroyed by acids.
"When acid has accidentally or otherwise
destroyed or changed the color of the fabric,
ammonia should be applied to neutralize the
acid. A subsequent application of chloroform
restores the original color.
Spots produced by hydrochloric or sulphuric
acid can be removed by the application of
concentrated ammonia, while spots from
nitric acid can scarcely be obliterated.
368. To Remove Alkali Stains from
Garments. Spots produced by alkalies,
such as soap-boiler's lye, soda, ammonia, etc.,
can generally be made to disappear complete-
ly by the prompt application of dilute acetic
acid and a good deal of water. (See No. 360.)
369. To Remove Claret or Port Wine
Stains. Apply a little table salt to the spot
stained, and also moisten it with sherry.
After washing, no trace of the stain will be
left. The acid contained in claret decomposes
the salt, and sets free chlorine (bleaching
gas), which removes the vegetable coloring
matter of the wine. If the stain is from port,
sherry should be added, as it also contains
acid.
370. To Remove Stains of "Wine,
Fruit, &c., after they have been long in
the Linen. Eub the part on each side with
yellow soap ; then lay on a mixture of starch
in cold water very thick ; rub it well in, and
expose the linen to the sun and air till the
stain comes out. If not removed in 3 or 4
days, rub that off and renew the process.
"When dry it may be sprinkled with a little
water.
371. To Remove Stains of Iodine.
Stains of iodine are removed by rectified,
spirit.
372. To take out all Stains which are
not Metallic. Mix 2 tea-spoonfuls of water
with one of spirit of salt (muriatic acid);
let the stain lie in it for one or two minutes ;
then rinse the article in cold water. This
will be found particularly useful in removing
stains from white napkins.
373. Prepared Ox-gall for taking out
Spots. Boil together 1 pint of ox-gall and
2 ounces powdered alum ; to which add 2
ounces common salt; let the liquor settle ;
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
add a few drops essence of lemon, pour it off
into a bottle, and cork tightly.
374. Scouring Balls for General Pur-
poses. In order to remove a stain, the cause
or origin of which is doubtful, a composition
is requisite which possesses various powers.
The following is a good one for such pur-
poses : Dissolve some white soap in alcohol,
and mix with it the yolks of 4 or 5 eggs ; add
gradually a little spirits of turpentine, and
sufficient fuller's earth to make the mixture
into balls. To remove a stain, wet the spot
with soft water, rub it with a ball of the
above composition, then rub the cloth and
wash out. This will remove almost any
stain, except ink and other solutions of iron.
375. To Remove Iron Mould or Ink
Stains. For iron mould or ink stains, lemon
juice or salt of sorrel (oxalate of potash) may
be used. If the stains are of long standing, it
may be necessary to use oxalic acid, which is
much more powerful. It may be applied in
powder upon the spot, previously moistened
with water well rubbed on, and then washed
off with pure water. It should be effectually
washed out, for it is highly corrosive to textile
fibres. (See also No. 127.)
376. To Remove Iron Mould. The
part stained should be remoistened with ink,
and this removed by the use of muriatic acid
diluted with 5 or 6 times its weight of water,
when it will be found that the old and new
stain will be removed simultaneously. This
is a very effectual method.
377. To Remove Stains of Iron Mould
from Fabrics. The removal of these stains
is a matter of some difficulty if they have re-
mained on a fabric for some time. The usual
substances employed for this purpose (oxalic
acid or quadroxalate of potassa) require plac-
ing, in concentrated solution, in contact with
the material for a considerable time, thereby
materially weakening and rotting the fibre.
The following method is free from this objec-
tion, and will remove stains of long standing
almost immediately: "Wet the mark with
yellow sulphide of ammonium, by which it
will be immediately blackened, and allow it a
minute or so to penetrate ; then wash out the
excess of sulphide, and treat the black spot
with cold dilute muriatic acid, by which it is
immediately removed. Finally, wash well
with water.
378. To Make Essential Salt of
Lemons, for removing iron moulds, ink
spots, and stains from linen and cotton. Take 1
ounce of oxalic acid in fine powder, mix with
4 ounces of cream tartar, and put it up in
small oval boxes.
379. To Remove Ink, Iron Mould,
•fee., from Linen. Wet the finger in water,
dip it in the powder (sec last receipt), and rub
it on the spot gently, keeping it rather moist,
and the stain will disappear without injuring
the fabric. After the stain disappears, wash
the linen in pure water. The salt of lemon
used as a beverage is simply tartaric acid, put
up in long bottles. The above is poisonous if
swallowed.
380. To Remove Iron Mould and Ink
from Delicate Linen Fabrics. These may
be taken out by wetting the spots in milk,
then covering them with common salt. It
should be done before the garments have
been washed. Another way to take out ink
is to dip it in melted tallow. For fine, deli-
cate articles, this is the best way.
381. To take out Mildew Spots. "Wet
the spots with a solution of chloride of soda
(Labarraque's solution), or of chloride of lime
(bleaching fluid), or with chlorine water, and
they will disappear immediately. Fruit and
wine stains of all kinds may be removed in
this way. (See also No. 128.) Starched linen
which has contracted mildew spots will re-
quire an application each day for 2 or 3 days ;
rinsing out and bleaching in the sunshine af-
ter each application.
382. To Remove Mildew. Mildew is
easily removed by rubbing or scraping a little
common yellow soap on the article, and then
a little salt and starch on that. Rub all well
on the article, and put in the sunshine. Or,
soap the linen previously wetted, and apply
salt and lemon juice to both sides ; or apply
finely powdered pipe clay, or fuller's earth, or
finely powdered chalk. Expose it for several
hours to the atmosphere.
383. To Extract Mildew. Mix soft soap
with powdered starch, half as much salt, and
the juice of a lemon, and lay on with a brush.
Let it lay on the grass day and night till the
stain is gone. This is a good receipt. Or,
take 2 ounces chloride of lime, pour on it a
quart of boiling water, then add 3 quarts of
cold water; steep the linen 10 or 12 hours,
when every spot will be extracted.
Mix oxalic acid, citric acid, and milk, togeth-
er; rub into the linen; repeat as it dries;
wash, and bleach on the grass.
384. To Remove Common Ink Stains.
Ink stains may be readily removed from
white articles by means of a little salt of
lemons, diluted muriatic acid, oxalic acid, or
tartaric acid, and hot water ; or by means of
a little solution of chlorine or chloride of lime.
When the stain is caused by ink manufactured
with logwood, a red mark remains, which may
be removed by the application of a little chlo-
ride of lime. All strong acids and alkalies
tend to injure the fabric ; therefore, immedi-
ately the stains are removed, the spots should
be well rinsed, and repeatedly, in cold water.
385. To Remove Stains made by
Hair Dye, or Indelible Ink. The stain-
ing principle of common indelible ink is ni-
trate of silver. It may be removed by first
soaking in a solution of common salt, which
produces chloride of silver, and afterwards
washing with ammonia, which dissolves the
chloride. Nitrate of silver, or hair dye stains
can be removed by a solution of 10 grains of
cyanide of potassium, and 5 grains of iodine
to 1 ounce of water; or a solution of 8 parts
of perchloride of mercury and muriate of
ammonia in 125 parts of water. (See Nos.
129 and 387.)
386. To Remove Marking-Ink from
Linen. Dip the garment in a solution of 1
ounce cyanide of potassium in. 4 ounces of
water. After a few hours the stain will be
obliterated. This is very effectual, but the
mixture is highly poisonous, and should be
carefully removed.
387. To Remove Silver Stains from
the Hands. Put % pound glauber salts, £
pound of the chloride of lime, and 8 ounces of
water, into a little wide-mouthed bottle, and
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
when required for use pour some of the
thick sediment into a saucer, and rub it well
over the hands with pumice stone or a nail-
brush, and it will clean the fingers quite equal
to cyanide, but without any danger. This
will do to use over again until exlmusted, and
should be kept corked up. The disagreeable
smell may be entirely avoided by the liberal
use of lemon juice, which not only entirely
removes the smell, but whitens the hands.
388. To Remove Stains from the
Hands. Ink stains, dye stains, fruit stains,
etc., can be immediately removed by dipping
the fingers in warm water and then rubbing
on the stain a small portion of oxalic acid
powder and cream of tartar, mixed together
in equal quantities, and kept in a box. When
the stain disappears, wash the hands with fine
soap. This mixture, being poisonous, must be
kept out of the reach of children. A few
drops of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) will also
remove most stains from the hands without
injuring them. Care must, however, be taken
not to drop it upon the clothes. It will re-
move the color from woolen, and eat holes in
cotton fabrics. The juice of ripe tomatoes
will remove the stain of walnuts from the
hands, without injury to the skin.
389. To take Ink Stains out of Ma-
hogany. Put a few drops of spirits of nitre
(nitric acid) in a tea-spoonful of water, touch
the spot with a feather dipped in the mixture,
and on the ink disappearing, rub it over im-
mediately with a rag wetted in cold water, or
there will be a white mark, which will not
be easily effaced.
390. To take Ink Spots out of Ma-
hogany. Apply spirits of salts (muriatic
acid) with a rag until the spots disappear, and
immediately afterward wash with clear water.
391 . To Remove Ink from Mahogany.
To % pint of soft water put 1 ounce of oxalic
acid, and ^ ounce of butter (terchloride) of
antimony ; shake it well, and when dissolved
it will be very useful in extracting stains from
mahogany, as well as ink, if not of too long
standing.
392. To Extract Ink from Floors.
Remove ink from floors by scouring them
with sand wet with water and the oil of vit
riol, mixed. Then rinse them with strong
saleratus water.
393. To Remove Stains on Mahog-
any Furniture. Stains and spots may be
taken out of mahogany furniture by the use
of a little aquafortis, or oxalic acid and water,
by nibbing the part with the liquid, by means
of a cork, till the color is restored; observing
afterwards to well wash the wood with water
and to dry and polish as usual.
394. To Extract Oil from Boards,
Marble or other Stones. Make a strong
lye of pearlashes and soft water, and add as
much unslacked lime as it will take up ; stir
it together, and then let it settle a few min-
utes; bottle it and stop close; have ready
some water to dilute it when used, and scour
the part with it. If the liquor should lie long
on the boards, it will draw the color out of
them ; therefore do it with care and expedi-
tion. "When used for marble, the surface may
be improved by rubbing or polishing . after-
ward with fine putty-powder and olive oil.
(For Putty Powder, see Index.)
395. To take Oil and Grease out of
Boards. Make a paste with fuller's earth and
hot water, cover the spots therewith, let it
dry on, and the next day scour it off with soft
or yellow soap.
396. To Clean Marble. To clean mar-
ble, mix quicklime with strong lye, so as to
form a mixture having the consistency of
cream, and apply it immediately with a brush.
If this composition be allowed to remain for a
day or two, and be then washed off with soap
and water, the marble will appear as though
it were new.
397. To Clean Marble. Take 2 parts
of common soda, 1 part of pumice-stone, and
1 part of finely powdered chalk; sift it
through a fine sieve, and mix it with water ;
then rub it well all over the marble, and the
stains will be removed ; then wash the mar-
ble over with soap and water, and it will be
as clean as it was at first.
398. How to Clean Marble. The fol-
lowing is an excellent way of cleaning marble :
First, brush the dust off the piece to be
cleaned, then apply with a brush a good coat
of gum arabic, about the consistency of thick
office mucilage; expose it to the sun or dry
wind, or both. In a short time it will crack
and peel off. If all the gum should not peel
off, wash it with clean water and a clean
cloth. If the first application does not have
the desired effect, it should be applied again.
399. To Clean Marble. Mix i pound
soft soap with the same of pounded whiting,
1 ounce soda, and a piece of stone-blue the
size of a walnut ; boil these together for £ of
an hour ; whilst hot, rub it over the marble
with a piece of flannel, and leave it on for 24
hours ; then wash it off with clean water,
and polish the marble with a piece of coarse
flannel, or, what is better, a piece of an old
hat,
400. To take Stains out of White
Marble. Take 1 ox-gall, 1 wine-glass soap
lees, •£ wine-glassful turpentine; mix and
make into a paste with pipe clay. Put
on the paste over the stain and let it remain
for several days. If the stain is not fully re-
moved a second application will generally
prove sufficient.
401. To Remove Oil Stains in Mar-
ble. Stains in marble caused by oil can be
removed by applying common clay saturated
with benzine. If the grease has remained
long enough it will have become acidulated,
and may injure the polish, but the stain will
be removed.
402. To Remove Iron Mould or Ink
from Marble. Iron mould and ink spots
may be taken out in the following manner :
Take \ ounce butter of antimony and 1 ounce
oxalic acid, and dissolve them in 1 pint rain
water; add flour, and bring the composition to
a proper consistence. Then lay it evenly on
the stained part with a brush, and after it has
remained for a few days wash it off, and re-
peat the process if the stain is not quite re-
moved.
403. To Remove Stains from Mar-
ble. Mix an ox-gall with a quarter of a
pound of soap-boiler's lye, and an eighth of a
pound of oil of turpentine, and add enough
pipe-clay earth to form a paste, which is then
to be placed upon the marble for a time, and
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
afterwards scraped off; the application to be re-
peated until the marble is perfectly clean. It
is quite possible that a faint trace of the stains
may be left ; but this will bo almost inappre-
ciable. Should the spots be produced by oil,
these are to be first treated with petroleum,
for the purpose of softening the hardened oil,
and the above-mentioned application may be
made subsequently.
404. To Remove Printing Ink from
any Article. Printing ink can be readily
taken from any article by means of ether or
oil of turpentine. Pure benzine will also
have a similar effect.
405. To Remove the Varnish from
Oil Paintings, &c. Varnish and dirt can be
removed by washing over with a weak solution
of carbonate of ammonia, wiping it off with
a sponge wetted with water as soon as it has
fulfilled its object ; if allowed to remain too
long it will injure the oil colors. Another
way is to spread a thick coat of wet fuller's
earth over the surface of the varnish, leaving it
on long enough to soften it ; it may then be
removed by washing.
406. To Clean Pictures. Havingtaken
> the picture out of the frame, take a clean
towel, and, making it quite wet, lay it on the
face of the picture, sprinkling it from time to
time with clean soft water; let itremainwetfor
2 or 3 days ; take the cloth off and renew it
with a fresh one. After wiping the picture
with a clean wet sponge, repeat the process
till you find all the dirt is soaked out of it;
then wash with a soft sponge, and let it get
quite dry ; rub it with some clear nut or lin-
seed oil, and it will look as well as when
freshly done.
407. To Clean Oil Paintings. Put
into 2 quarts of strong lye, | pound of Genoa
soap, rasped very fine, with 1 pint spirits of
wine ; let them simmer on the fire for half an
hour, then strain them through a cloth. Ap-
ply the preparation with a brush to the pic-
ture, wipe it off with a sponge, and apply it
a second time, which will remove all dirt.
Then with a little nut-oil warmed, rub the
picture and let it dry. This will make it look
as bright as when it came out of the artist's
hands. If the canvas is injured by damp, mil-
dew or foul air, the first thing to be done is to
stretch and line it with new canvas.
408. To Clean Japanned Waiters and
Urns. Hub on with a sponge a little white
soap and some lukewarm water, and wash the
waiter or urn quite clean. Never use hot wa-
ter, as it will cause the japan to scale off.
Having wiped it dry, sprinkle a little flour
over it; let it rest a while, and then rub it
with a soft dry cloth, and finish with a silk
handkerchief. If there are white heat marks
on the waiters, they will be difficult to re-
move ; but you may try rubbing them with a
flannel dipped in sweet oil, and afterwards in
spirits of wine. "Waiters and other articles of
papier mache should be washed with a sponge
and cold water, without soap, dredged with
flour while damp, and after a while wiped off,
and then polished with a silk handkerchief.
409. Method of Cleaning Paper Hang-
ings. Cut into 8 portions a loaf of bread 2
days old; it must neither be newer nor sta-
ler. "With one of these pieces, after having
blown off all the dust from the paper to be i
cleaned, by the means of a good pair of bel-
lows, begin at the top of the room, holding the
crust in the hand, and wiping lightly down-
ward with the crumb, about half a yard at
each stroke, till the upper part of the paper is
completely cleaned all round. Then go round
again, with the like sweeping stroke down-
wards, always commencing each successive
course a little higher than the upper stroke
had extended, till the bottom be finished.
This operation, if carefully performed, will
frequently make very old paper look almost
equal to new. Great caution must be used
not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor
to attempt cleaning it the cross or horizontal
way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must
be continually cut away, and the pieces re-
newed as soon as may become necessary.
410. To take Grease Stains out of
Wall Papers. Oil marks, and marks where
neople have rested their heads, can be taken
from the paper on drawing-room walls by
mixing pipe-clay with water to the consist-
ency of cream, laying it on the spot, and let-
ting it remain till the following day, when it
may be easily removed with a penknife or brush.
411. To take Grease from Paper.
Gently warm the parts containing the grease,
and apply blotting-paper so as to extract as
much as possible. Boil some clear essential
oil of turpentine and apply it to the warm
paper with a soft clean brush. A little recti-
fied spirits of wine should be put over after-
ward.
412. To take out Stains of Ink from
Books. Oxyinuriatic acid removes, per-
fectly, stains of ink ; and should the paper re-
quire bleaching, the operation will answer
both ends at the same time. Nearly all the
acids will remove spots of ink from paper ;
but it is important to use such as dot not at-
tack its texture. Spirits of salt (muriatic
acid) diluted in 5 or 6 times the quantity of
water, may be applied with success upon the
spot, and after a minute or two, washing it off
with clean water. A solution of oxalic acid,
citric acid, and tartaric acid, is attended with
the least risk, and may be applied upon the
paper and plates without fear of damage.
These acids taking out writing ink, and not
touching the printing, can be used for restor-
ing books where the margins have been writ-
ten upon, without attacking the text.
413. To Remove Yellow Stains from
the Margins of Engravings. The yellow
stains on the margin of engravings may be
removed by a solution of hydrochloride of
soda. This liquid is commonly known under
the name of Labarraque's solution.
414. To Clean Silver or Gold Lace.
Lay the lace smooth on a woolen carpet or
piece of woolen cloth, and brush it free from
dust, then bum rock alum and powder it fine,
and afterwards sift it through a lawn sieve ;
then rub it over the lace with a fine brush,
and in so doing it will take off the tarnish and
restore it to its brightness, if it be not too
much worn on the threads.
415. To Clean Papier Mache. Papier
mach6 articles should be washed with a sponge
and cold water, without soap, dredged with
flour while damp, and polished with a flannel.
416. To Clean Hair Brushes and
Combs. Wash the bristles for a few seconds
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
55
in a weak solution of hartshorn, say a table
spoonful to a pint of cold soft water. Then
rinse in clean cold water, and dry. Do no
set them near the fire, nor in the sun, to dry
but, after shaking them well, set them on th
point of the handle in a shady place. Bythi
process the brush will be thoroughly cleanse!
with very little trouble. Observe that th
mahogany or satin-wood back of the brusl
must be kept out of the solution, as it is ap
to discolor wood. Combs may be cleaned in
the same manner.
417. To Clean Looking Glasses
Take part of a newspaper, ibid it small, dip i
in a basin of clean cold water, and when it ii
thoroughly wet squeeze it out as a sponge, ant
then rub it hard over the face of the { /
taking care that it is not so wet as to run down
in streams. After the glass has been wel
rubbed with the wet paper, let it rest a few
minutes and then go over it with a fresh dry
newspaper, till it looks clear and bright, which
it will do almost immediately. The inside 01
windows may be cleaned in this way, and they
will look beautifully clear.
418. To Clean Straw Matting. Wash
it with weak salt and water and dry it well,
or boil a small bag of bran in 2 gallons of wa-
ter, and wash the matting with the water,
drying it well.
419. To Clean Cane-Bottom Chairs.
Turn up the chair bottom, and with hot wa-
ter and a sponge wash the canework well, so
that it may become completely soaked.
Should it be very dirty you must add soap.
Let it dry in the open air if possible, or in a
place where there is a thorough draught, and
it will become as tight and firm as when new,
provided it has not been broken.
420. To Clean Sheepskin Rugs or
Mats. Make a very strong lather, by boil-
ing soap in a little water; mix this with a suf-
ficient quantity of water (rather more than
lukewarm) to wash the mat or rug in, and
rub boiled soap on those portions of it which
require additional cleansing. "When the mat
has been well washed in this water, prepare
another lather in the same way, in which a
second washing must take place, followed by
a third, which ought to be sufficient to cleanse
it thoroughly. Einse it well in cold water
until all the soap is removed, and then put it
in water in which a little blue has been mixed,
sufficient to keep the wool of a good white,
and prevent its inclining to yellow. After this
it should be thoroughly wrung, shaken, and
hung out in the open air with the skin part
towards the sun, but not while it is scorching,
otherwise the skin will become hard. It
must also be shaken often while drying, for if
not, it will be quite stiff and crackly. It
should be frequently turned, being hung up
first by one end and then by the other, until
it has dried entirely.
421. To Clean Knives and Forks.
Procure a smooth board, free from knots, or
one covered with leather. If the latter, melt
a sufficient quantity of mutton-suet, and put
it hot upon the leather with a piece of flannel;
then take two pieces of soft Bath brick, and
rub them one against the other over the leath-
er till it is covered with the powder, which
rub in until no grease comes through when a
knife is passed over the leather, which may
easily be known oy the knife keeping its pol-
ish. If only a plain board, rub the Bath brick
2 or 3 times over it ; if too much be put on
at once it will make the blades of the knives
look rough and scratched. Let the board bo
of a proper height, and set so that the person
may be a little on the stoop while cleaning
the knives. Take a knife in each hand, holding
them back to back ; stand opposite the mid-
dle of the board ; lay the knives flat upon it,
and do not bear too hard upon them ; by this
method it will be easier to clean two knives
at a time than one, and they will bo less liable
to be broken, for good knives will snap when
pressed on too heavily. Many will say that
they cannot clean two knives at once, or that
they can get through them faster one by one :
but if they will only try it a few times in the
way recommended, they will find it not only
much more expeditious, but easier. A little
practice is all that is necessary.
The best way to clean steel forks is to fill a
small barrel with fine gravel, brick dust, or
sand, mixed with a little hay or moss; make
it moderately damp, press it well down, and
let it always be kept damp. By running the
prongs of the steel forks a few times into this,
all the stains on them will be removed.
Then have a small stick, shaped like a knife,
with leather round it, to polish between the
prongs, having first carefully brushed the dust
from them as soon as they are taken out of the
tub. A knife-board is often spoiled in clean-
ng forks upon it, and likewise the backs of
the knives ; to prevent this, have a piece of
old hat or leather put on the board where the
forks and backs of the knives are cleaned.
422. To Preserve Knives and Forks
xi Good Condition. Wipe the knives and
brks as soon as possible after being used, as
the longer they are left with grease and stains
on them the harder they will be to clean ;
>articularly if they have been used for acids,
salads, tarts, etc.; have then a jug of hot wa-
;er ready to put them into as soon as done
with, and wipe them as before directed.
In order to keep knives and forks in good
ondition when they are not in use, rub the
steel part with a flannel dipped in oil ; wipe
the oil off after a few hours, as there is often
water in it; or dust thS blades and prongs
with quicklime, finely powdered and kept in a
muslin bag.
423. To Clean Spice Mills. It is often
lesired to grind different spices, orange or
emon peel, in the same mill, without any one
>eing affected by another spice. Grind a tea-
poonful of rice through the mill and all impu-
rities will be removed. A coffee millmaybe fit-
ed to grind any spice in the same way, using
ather more rice. The rice will of course be
.avored by whatever may have been in the
mill. It is useful to thicken soups, or gravies,
r sauces, when the spice is no objection.
424. To Keep Oil-Cloths Looking
Well. Wash them once a month in skim
milk and water, equal quantities of each.
iub them once in three months with boiled lin-
eed oil. Put on very little, rub it well in
nth a rag, and polish with a piece of old silk.
)il-cloths will last years if kept in this way.
425. To Clean Oil-Cloth. An oil-cloth
hould never be scrubbed with a brush, but,
fter being first swept, should be cleaned by
56
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
washing with a soft flannel and lukewarm or
cold water. On no account use soap, or wa-
ter that is hot, as either would have a bad ef-
fect on the paint. "When the oil-cloth is dry,
rub it well with a small portion of a mixture
of bees' wax, softened with a minute quantity
of turpentine, using for this purpose a soft
furniture polishing brush. Oil-cloth cared for
in this way will last twice the time than with
ordinary treatment.
426. To Give to Boards a Beautiful
Appearance. After washing them very
nicely with soda and warm water and a brush,
wash them with a very large sponge and clean
water. Both times observe to leave no spot
untouched ; and clean straight up and down,
not crossing from board to board ; then dry
with clean cloths, rubbed hard up and down
in the same way.
The floors should not be often wetted, but
very thoroughly when done ; and once a week
dry-rubbed with hot sand and a heavy brush,
the right way of the boards.
The sides of stairs or passages on which are
carpets or floor-cloth, should be washed with
sponge instead of linen or flannel, and the
edges will not be soiled. Different sponges
should be kept for the above two uses ; and
those and the brushes should be well washed
when done with, and kept in dry places.
427. To Scour Boards. Lime, 1 part ;
sand, 3 parts; soft soap, two parts. Lay a
little on the boards with a scrubbing-brush,
and rub thoroughly. Einse with clean wa-
ter and rub dry. This will keep the boards
of a good color, and will also keep away
vermin.
428. To Clean Stone Stairsand Halls.
Boil 1 pound of pipe-clay with a quart water,
and a quart small beer, and put in a bit of
stone-blue. Wash with this mixture, and,
when dry, rub the stone with flannel and a
brush.
429. To Clean Glass Globes. If the
globes are much stained on the outside by
smoke, soak them in tolerably hot water with
a little washing soda dissolved in it; then put
a tea-spoonful of powdered ammonia into a
pan of lukewarm water, and with a tolerably
hard brush wash the globes till the smoke
stain disappears; riflse in clean cold water,
and let them drain till dry; they will be quite
as white and clear as new globes.
430. To Clean Decanters. There is
often much difficulty experienced in cleaning
decanters, especially after port wine has stood
in them for some time. The best way is to
wash them out with a little pearlash and
warm water, adding a spoonful or two of fresh
slaked lime if necessary. To facilitate the
action of the fluid against the sides of the
glass, a few small cinders may be used.
Or, soak the decanters for some hours in
warm soda and water ; if there is much cut-
ting on the outside, a brush will be necessary
to remove the dirt and stains from the crev-
ices. Cut a potato into small dice, put a
good handful of these into the decanter with
some warm water, shake the decanter briskly
until the stains disappear ; rinse in clean cold
water, and let them drain until dry. Vinegar
and sauce cruets can be cleaned in the same
way.
431. To Clean Glass Bottles. Chop
up a large potato very fine and put it in the
bottle with some warm water, and shake it
rapidly until it is clean. Some use shot and
soda, but potato is even more effectual.
432. To Clean Medicine Phials.
Cleanse bottles that have had medicines in
them, by putting ashes in each, immersing
them in cold water, and then heating the wa-
ter gradually till it boils. After boiling an
hour, let them remain in the water till it is
cold. "Wash them in soap-suds, and riuse
them till clean in clear water.
433. To Wash Castor Bottles. Put
them £ full of rice and fill up with warm
water; shake them well; this will cleanse
them thoroughly.
434. To Clean Greasy Earthenware.
Stone pots and jars in which lard or fat has
been kept, and yellow ware pie plates, may be
cleaned by putting them in a kettle with
ashes or sal soda, covering them with cold
water, and allowing them to boil slowly an hour
at least. When boiled enough, take them off
the fire and leave them in the water until it
cools.
435. To Clean Paint. There is a very
simple method to clean paint that has become
dirty, and if our housewives should adopt it,
it would save them a great deal of trouble.
Provide a plate with some of the best whit-
ing to be had, and have ready some clean warm
water and a piece of flannel, which dip into
the water and squeeze nearly dry ; then take
as much whiting as will adhere to it, ap-
ply it to the painted surface, when a little
rubbing will instantly remove any dirt or
grease. After which wash the part well with
clean water, rubbing it dry with a soft cha-
mois. Paint thus cleaned looks as well as
when first laid on, without any injury to the
most delicate colors. It is far better than
using soap, and does not require more than
half the time and labor.
Another simple method is as follows : — put
a table-spoonful of aqua ammonia in a quart
of moderately hot water, dip in a flannel
cloth, and with this merely wipe over the
wood- work ; no scrubbing will be necessary.
436. To Clean Varnished Paint. Boil
a pound of bran in 1 gallon of water an hour,
and wash the paint with the bran water.
437. To Clean Soiled Bibbons and
Silks. A mixture of alcohol and highly
rectified benzine is excellent for cleaning rib-
bons and silks. It is applied with a clean
sponge. Persons who apply these liquids and
mixtures to cleaning silks, &c., must be care-
ful to do so in an apartment where there is
neither fire nor lamp burning, under the pen-
alty of an explosion. (See No. 346.)
438. To B,emove Stains from Kid
Gloves. Stains may be removed, even from
the most delicately colored gloves, by sus-
pending them for a day in an atmosphere of
ammonia. Provide a tall glass cylinder, in the
bottom of which place strong aqua ammonia.
Be careful to remove from the sides of the jar
any ammonia that may have been spattered
upon them. Suspend the gloves to the stop-
per in the jar. They must not come in con-
tact with the liquid.
439. To Clean Kid Gloves. Dr. Eei-
mann gives the following directions, in the
Scientific American, for cleaning kid gloves: —
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
57
A bottle 2 feet high, and 1 to 1£ feet wide,
the stopper of which is also made of glass, is
filled with 2 pounds of benzine. Then the
gloves which are to be washed are put also
into the bottle. On this account the neck of
the bottle must be very wide, perhaps from •£
to £ foot in diameter. Such bottles are easily
obtained, being much used in pharmacy. As
many gloves may be introduced into the bot-
tle as the liquid will cover. The bottle is
then closed, well shaken, and allowed to
stand some minutes. The shaking is repeated,
the bottle opened, and the gloves taken out
with a pair of iron forceps.
To prevent the possibility of there being
any smell, it is a good plan to open the bottle
under a good chimney, which thus carries off
all the vapor that escapes.
The gloves, when brought by the forceps to
the mouth of the bottle, are taken out, one
after the other, by the hand, and wrung out,
care being taken that the superfluous liquid
runs back again into the bottle. It is highly
advisable to perform this operation under a
chimney, or the workman will soon suffer
from the injurious influence of the volatile
hydrocarbon.
Under the chimney is placed a cord stretch-
ed between two pins, and the gloves are
hung upon this by means of small S-shaped
hooks. After hanging a short time they will
be dry.
The benzine contained in the bottle dis-
solves all the grease which adheres to the
§ loves, and the dirt which had been com-
ined with the grease is consequently re-
moved at the same time. The benzine re-
maining in the bottle assumes a dirty gray
color during the process of washing.
"When the benzine has become too dirty, it is
put into a distilling apparatus, and distilled
over. Jn this way the benzine is restored to
its original purity and whiteness, so that it
can be used again in further operations. ( For
directions how to accomplish this, see next re-
ceipt.)
The gloves, when taken out of the bottle,
are often not quite clean, in which case it is
necessary to rub them with a rag, moistened
with benzine, in all places where they are still
dirty.
Thus the last traces of dirt are removed,
and the gloves become perfectly clean. In
this state they may be hung on a cord under
the chimney.
The gloves soon become dry, but a part of
the benzine still remains behind, which is less
volatile, and which, when the glove is in con-
tact with the warm hand, causes a strong odor
of benzine to be evolved.
To remove this also, the gloves are placed
on a common plate, which is put upon an iron
pot containing boiling water. The first plate
is covered with a second, and the gloves be-
tween the two plates are heated at the boiling
temperature of water, until the last traces of
the unvolatilized benzine have escaped.
The gloves are now removed from the plate,
and put upon a wooden glove-stretcher, or
shape. In this way they are made to resume
then- original form, and are now ready for
use.
The whole operation must be so conducted
that no smell of benzine is perceptible. The
smell of benzine is always a sign of careless-
ness on the part of the workman, who can
readily conduct all the benzine vapors up the
chimney. (Sec No. 346.)
440. To He-Distill and Purify Ben-
zine that has been used for Cleaning
Kid Gloves. If the operation of distilling
the benzine is disagreeable to the glove maker,
he can have it purified at the apothecary's or
chemist's. It is, however, an operation which
he can readily perform himself
The apparatus is neither complicated nor
expensive. A small wooden pail, such as is
used in every establishment, is furnished with
two holes. The first of these is drilled near
the upper margin of the pail, so that, when
the pail is filled with water, the water runs
out through the hole, until the surface of the
water within the pail is on a level with the
lowest portion of the hole, that is to say, just
below the upper margin of the vessel.
On the opposite side of the pail another
hole is made, but this time near its bottom, so
that water would run through this hole, until
the surplus of the contained water was within
a short distance of the bottom.
A leaden tube, the thickness of which
equals the diameter of the hole, is bent so as
to form a distilling worm, the upper end of
which is inserted into the upper opening, and
the lower end into the lower hole.
The tube is tightly inserted into both holes,
so that no water can run through the space
between the tube and the hole.
The pail is then filled with cold water.
' The upper and lower ends of the leaden
tube must project a little beyond the outer
surface of the pail — perhaps two inches.
The lower end is bent downward a little.
The upper end is a little enlarged, so that the
tube forms a sort of funnel above.
In this is inserted a glass retort, conve-
niently fixed in a holder.
The space between the neck of the retort
and the enlarged end of the leaden tube is
conveniently filled with moistened cotton,
so that no vapors can escape through it.
It is a good plan to employ a glass retort
with a tube, so that any fluid can be poured
into it when the apparatus is already fixed.
Having placed the retort on a vapor bath,
where it can be heated at 212° Fahr., the neck
of the retort is connected with the worm, as
above mentioned, and the pail filled up with
cold water. The retort is then filled with the
impure benzine or petroleum essence which
has been used in washing gloves.
After pouring in the benzine, the tube of
the retort is closed by a stopper, and then the
apparatus is completed by a bottle placed un-
der the lower end of the leaden tube, which
projects beyond the outer surface of the pail,
so that the liquid running down this flows
directly into the bottle.
The vapor bath is now heated, the retort
soon becomes warm, and the volatile liquid
begins to distill over, either quickly or slowly,
according to the way in which the heating
process is conducted.
The vapor of the hydrocarbon condenses
in the worm, and a stream of liquid flows out
of its mouth. In a short time there remains
behind in the retort only the grease which the
benzine has extracted from the gloves.
58
TO REMOVE .STAINS AND SPOTS.
441. To Refine Ox-gall for Fixing
Chalk and Pencil Drawings, and Re-
moving Grease. Allow fresh ox- gall to re-
pose for 12 or 15 hours, decant the clear, and
evaporate to the consistence of a thick syrup,
in a water bath; then spread it thinly 'on a
dish, and expose it before the fire, or to a cur-
rent of dry air, until nearly dry. It will then
keep lor years in wide-mouthed bottles or pots,
covered over with bladder. For use, a little
is dissolved in water.
Or: — fresh gall, 1 pint; boil, skim, add pound-
ed alum, 1 ounce; boil again until the alum is
dissolved, and when sufficiently cool, pour it
into a bottle, and loosely cork 'it down ; in a
similar manner boil and skim another pint of
gall, and add to it 1 ounce of common salt;
boil till dissolved, and cool and bottle as
above. In three months decant the clear
from both bottles, and mix them in equal
quantities; the clear portion must then be
separated from the coagulum by subsidence or
filtration. It is employed by artists to fix
chalk and pencil drawings before tinting them,
and to remove the greasiness from ivory, tra-
cin-g paper, &e. It is also used to extract
grease and oil from clothes: for the latter
purpose it answers admirably.
442. To Clean Cloth Clothes. Dis-
solve 4 ounces washing soda in 1 qjiart boiling
water ; when dissolved, add to it 1 moderate
sized fresh beefs gall ; lay the garment to be
cleaned on a clean table or board, and with a
sponge or brush (a brush is the best) wetted
in the liquid, rub well the grease spots first,
and. afterwards the whole garment, frequently
dipping the sponge or brush in the liquid;
when sufficiently rubbed, rinse in cold water
until the water is clear, then squeeze the wa-
ter out thoroughly (but without twisting — if
possible, use a patent wringer), shake well and
hang in the air to dry. While drying, shake
the garment occasionally and pull it into
shape to prevent shrinking. "When still
slightly damp, press it on the wrong side
with a warm iron, and then finish airing.
Clothes cleaned in this way, if the directions
be strictly followed, look almost equal to new.
The use of the patent wringing machine is a
great improvement in this operation, as it has-
tens drying, and prevents shrinking. The
editor has used this receipt in his family for
the last 15 years with the most satisfactory
results. For dark-colored cloth garments, it
is a common practice to add some fuller's
earth to the mixture of soap and gall. When
nearly dry, the nap should be laid right, and
the garment carefully pressed, after which, a
brush, moistened with a drop or two of olive
oil, should be passed over it several times;
this will give it a superior finish.
443. To Clean Woolen Clothes. Mix
•$• ounce sulphuric ether and | ounce hartshorn
(ammonia water) with 3 ounces water. Rub
the article well with a sponge frequently
wetted with the mixture, which will remove
the dirt; then sponge with clean -warm wa-
ter; next lay a coarse towel, which has
been saturated with hot water and wrung out,
over the article, and press it with a hot
iron ; while the steam is still rising from the
cloth, brush it down with a clothes brush.
444. To Clean Carpets. Carpets may
be cleaned as follows : Take them up
and shake and beat them, so as to render
them perfectly free from dust. Have the
floor thoroughly scoured and dry, and nail the
carpet firmly down upon it. If still much
soiled it may be cleaned in the following man-
ner : Take a pailful of clean cold spring wa-
ter, and put into it about 3 gills of ox-gall.
Take another pail with clean cold water only.
Now rub with a soft scrubbing brush some of
the ox-gall water on the carpet, which will
raise a lather. When a convenient sized por-
tion is done, wash the lather off with a clean
linen cloth dipped in the clean water. Let
this water be changed frequently. When all
the lather has disappeared, rub the part with
a clean dry cloth. After all is done, open the
window to allow the carpet to dry. A carpet
treated in this way will be greatly refreshed
in color, particularly the greens. Any particu-
larly dirty spots should be rubbed by nearly
pure gall first ; and every spot of grease must
be removed from the carpet by the following
process : Scrape and pound together, in equal
proportion, magnesia in the lump and ful-
ler's earth. Having mixed these substances
well together, pour on them a sufficient quan-
tity of boiling water to make them into a
paste. Lay this paste, as hot as possible, upon
the grease spots upon the carpet, and let it
dry. Next day, when the composition is
quite dry, brush it off, and the grease spot
will have disappeared. (See No. 357.)
445. To Clean Hearth Rugs and
Stair Carpets. Hearth rugs and stair car-
pets may be treated in the same manner as
given in the last receipt, only that these may
be spread and washed upon a table.
446. How to Clean Carpets. Carpets
may be washed on tables or on the floor. In
either case they must be taken up and well
beaten and swept. Grease is taken, out by
rubbing hard soap on the spot, and scrubbing
it out with a brush dipped in clean coM. water.
Each spot must be rubbed dry with a cloth as
it is washed. Dissolve a bar of soap in 2 gal-
lons of water, by cutting it into the water
and heating to a boil. Lay the carpet on
the floor and tack it down, or have a heavy
board, 3 feet wide by 12 feet long, laid on
stout stands, or horses, and throw the carpet
over that, keeping a clean board or sheet un-
derneath to receive the carpet as it is cleansed.
Provide brushes, and a quantity of coarse
cotton cloths, flannels, and a large sponge.
Take 2 pails filled with blood-warm water,
put 2 quarts of the melted soap into one of
them to scour the carpet with, and use the
other for rinsing. Dip the brush in the
soap-suds, and scour a square yard of tho
carpet at a time, using as little water as possi-
ble, not to soak it through. When the
soap has done its work, rub it well out of the
carpet with a flannel or coarse sponge, suck-
ing up with these all the wet and dirt left by
the brash, rinsing the article used in clean
water repeatedly. Have ready a pail of clean
cold water, with enough sulphuric acid or
sharp vinegar in it to taste sour ; dip a clean
sponge in this, squeeze and rub it well into
the spot just cleansed. Afterward wipe dry
with coarse cloths, rinsing and hanging them
where they will be dry when the next yard is
washed. Finish yard after yard in this way,
rubbing each clean and dry as you go. Keep
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
59
a good fire in the room to dry the carpet
thoroughly. If scoured on a frame, nail the
carpet against the side of a house in the sun
to dry. This is a tedious, but thorough pro-
cess. Hearth rugs may be cleaned in the
same "way, beating and brushing them well,
and tacking on a large board before washing.
Scrub one-sixth of it at a time unless you are
expeditious, and dry well with an old sheet.
The secret of having carpets look well is to
wash and rinse them thoroughly, without
soaking them through. Ingrain, tapestry,
Brussels, and Turkish carpets are all cleaned
in this way. Good authorities recommend a
tea-cupful of ox-gall to a pail of soap-suds,
rinsing with clean water. (See No. 444.)
447. To Sweep Carpets. Before ap-
plying the broom, scatter over the carpet the
refuse tea-leaves from the tea-pot. These
should be set apart and saved in a pot kept
for the purpose, squeezing the water out thor-
oughly in the hand. First rub the leaves
into the carpet with the broom, and then
sweep as usual. This will prevent dust and
brighten the colors. Indian meal is recom-
mended for this purpose by many experienced
housekeepers.
448. To Clean Colored Silks, Moreens,
Chintzes, and Printed Cottons. Colored
or black silks, moreens, printed cottons, and
chintzes, may be cleaned, without injury to
their colors, by potato liquor. Grate raw po-
tatoes to a fine pulp ; add water in the pro-
portion of 1 pint to 1 pound of potatoes ; pass
the liquid through a coarse sieve into a vessel,
and allow it to remain till the fine white
starch subsides to the bottom. Pour off the
clear liquor, which is to be used for cleaning.
Spread the article to be cleaned upon a table,
which should be covered with a linen cloth ;
dip a sponge in the liquor, and apply it until
the dirt is removed. Then rinse the article in
clean cokl water several times.
449. To Clean Old Tapestry on the
Wall. Old tapestry is cleaned on the wall,
beginning at the top. Melt a bar of good
common soap in a gallon of water, and put 1
quart of it in a gallon of cold water. A
clothes brush of fine broom straw or long
bristles is best to dust with; a soft brush,
piece of wash-leather, some flannels, and dry
sheets are also needed. Brush all dust from
the tapestry first, cleaning the corners well.
Dip a flannel in the suds, squeeze it slightly,
rub the tapestry to a lather, and brush well
with a soft brush. "Wring the flannel out of
the soap, and rub the tapestry dry with it and
wash-leather ; lastly wiping the whole as dry
as possible with a sheet, as it must not be
rinsed. Melt 4 ounces of tartaric acid in a
pint of boiling water, and add to it 2 gallons
of clean water. Squeeze a clean sponge in
this acid, and rub it well into the place just
cleaned and dried ; then finish with the dry
sheet at once before going to the next yard of
surface. Renew the suds and rinsing water
frequently, as well as the towels, flannels,
etc., for everything must be used clean. A
good fire should be kept in the room when
tepestry is cleaned. "When dry, rub a lump
of pipe-clay well into it, and brush it out
with a good clothes brush. This takes the
soap out and brightens the colors. Worsted
work may be cleaned in this way.
450. To Clean Silk and Cotton, or
Silk and Worsted Damask, Terry, or
Brocatelle Curtains. Silk and cotton, or
silk and worsted damask, terry, or brocatelle
curtains, are cleaned over a board by scrub-
bing with •£ a gallon caniphene and a brush,
first dipping the curtain into the camphene,
then cleaning on the wrong side, and lastly on
the right. Dip it again into the camphene
just used, and rinse in the same amount of
fresh camphene. Let it drain a minute, then
wipe it off with a linen or cotton sheet till
all the moisture possible is absorbed, and
brush it with a dry brush of soft hair. Hang
them in the air a few hours to take away the
smell of campheue. 1 gallon is enough for
each curtain width. Next roll the curtains in
half-dry sheets to damp them; take them
out ; brush and rub them ; then iron, with a
damp cloth laid over them, and they will look
like new.
451. To Clean Worsted Reps. Wors-
ted rep sofas, and worsted furniture of any
kind, are freshened by dusting damp Indian
meal over them, and rubbing off with a stiff
brush. Dry bran is said to answer the same
purpose, or very light, dry snow, not suffered
to melt on the surface. A large sheet should
be spread under each piece of furniture, as it
is cleaned, to catch the falling litter.
452. To Clean Table-Covers of Cot-
ton and Worsted, Silk and Worsted, or
Printed Cloth. Dissolve 1 bar of the best
mottled soap in 4 gallons of scalding water,
with 1 pound of pearlash in it. Have 3 tubs
ready, and put in the first, 1 pail of cold wa-
ter and 3 gallons of soap liquor ; in the second,
1 pail of cold water and 2 gallons of soap li-
quor ; and in the third, 2 pails of cold water
and 1 gallon of soap liquor. In another tub
have 6 pails of cold water, with a table-spoon-
ful of oil of vitriol in it. If the cover is cot-
ton and worsted, wash and wring it through
the three soap-waters ; rinse it five minutes in
the vitriol tub, and wring out of cold, clear
water ; fold it up smoothly to drain, and hang
it to dry without wringing.
For a silk and worsted cover use three soap-
waters ; rub it well, and, instead of the vit-
riol, put a pound of common salt in 2 pails of
water, and work the cloth well in this. Rinse
it in 2 cold waters after the salted one, and
hang it to dry in a warm room.
J/printed cloth wash through three soap-
liquors ; if one has a variety of table-cloths,
of different mixtures, they may be put through
the same suds in the order given in these di-
rections, using different rinses for each. Give
the printed cloth, after the last soap-liquor,
two cold waters, with a table-spoonful of vit-
riol in each ; after these, a cold, clear water.
Fold and drain it, and dry quickly in a warm
room, or the colors will run into one another.
To press table-cloths, lay them under a damp
sheet, and iron with a heavy iron.
453. To Clean White Jean Boots. If
you have not boot-trees, stuff the boot as full
as possible with common cotton wadding or
old rags, to prevent any creases ; then mix
some pipe-clay with water to rather a stiff
paste, wash the jean boots with soap and wa-
ter and a nail brush, using as little water as
possible to get the dirt off'. "When they look
tolerably clean, rub the pipe-clay with a flan-
60
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
nel well over them and hang them to dry.
"When dry, beat out the superfluous clay with
the hand and rub them till they look smooth.
Flake white may also be used.
454. To Clean White Kid Boots. If
the kid boots are not very soiled they may be
cleaned in the following manner : Put ^ ounce
of hartshorn into a saucer, dip a bit of clean
flannel in it and rub it on a piece of white
curd soap ; rub the boots with this, and as
each piece of flannel becomes soiled, take a
fresh piece ; the boots will look like new.
455. To Clean White Satin Shoes.
"White satin shoes may be cleaned by rubbing
them with stone blue and flannel, and after-
wards cleaning them with bread.
456. To Clean Black, and Other
Silks, with old Kid Gloves. Cut up a
black kid glove in small pieces and pour a
pint of boiling water over it. Cover it and
let it stand all night where the water will keep
warm if possible. In the morning let it boil
up, strain it, and add 1 dessert-spoonful of alco-
hol. Keep it warm while sponging the silk
on the right side and iron immediately on the
wrong side. For light silks use white or
light kid gloves. It will do without the al-
cohol, but is better with it.
457. To Clean Black Silks. Steep a
few hours in cold water. Then put J a pint
of the Black Eeviver in | a gallon of water,
and a cupful of ox-gall. Make hot, and sponge
the silk. Dry and smooth with an iron. {See
next receipt).
Eusty black silk may be cleaned in the
same way. Some persons clean black silk by
rubbing it with a flannel dipped in gin.
458. Black Reviver, to Restore the
Color of Black Silk, Cloth or Leather.
Take of blue galls, bruised, 4 ounces ; logwood,
copperas, iron filings free from grease, and
sumach leaves, each 1 ounce. Put all but
the iron filings and copperas into 1 quart good
vinegar, and set the vessel containing them
in a warm water bath for twenty-four hours,
then add the iron filings and copperas and
shake occasionally for a week. It should be
kept in a well-corked bottle. It may be ap-
plied to faded spots with a soft sponge. It is
good also to restore the black color of leather
when it turns red, the leather being previously
well cleaned with soap and water.
459. To Restore Black Silk. To ox-
gall, add boiling water sufficient to maRe it
warm, and with a clean sponge rub the silk
well on both sides ; squeeze it well out, and
proceed again in like manner. Einse it in
spring water, and change the water till per-
fectly clean; dry it in the air, then dip the
sponge in glue- water, and rub it on the wrong
side ; pin it out on a table, and dry before a fire.
460. To Clean Silks, Satins, Colored
Woolen Dresses, &c. 4 ounces of soft
soap, 4 ounces of honey, the white of an egg,
and a wine-glassful of gin ; mix well together,
and scour the article (which must be unpicked,
and laid in widths on a kitchen table) with a
rather hard brush, thoroughly ; afterwards
rinse it in cold water, leave to drain, and iron
whilst quite damp, with a piece of thin muslin
between it and the iron, or it will be marked
on the ironed side. The silk, when laid on the
table, must be kept quite smooth, so that
every part may come under the brush.
"White silk requires a little blue in the water.
This receipt is an excellent one.
461. To Raise the Nap on Cloth.
Soak in cold water for -£ an hour, then put on
a board, and rub the threadbare parts with a
half-worn hatter's card, filled with flocks, or
with a prickly thistle, until a nap is raised.
Hang up to dry, and with a hard brush lay
the nap the right way.
462. To Renovate Black Crape. Skim-
milk and water, with a little bit of glue in it,
made scalding hot, will restore old rusty black
Italian crape. If clapped and pulled dry,
like fine muslin, it will look as good as new.
463. To Raise the Pile on Velvet or
Plush. Hold the wrong side of the velvet
over the steam arising from boiling water,
until the pile rises — or dampen lightly the
wrong side of the velvet and hold it over a
pretty hot iron, not hot enough to scorch, how-
ever : or, make a clean brick hot, place upon
it a wet cloth, and hold the velvet over it,
and the steam will raise the plush.
464. To Restore Creased Ribbons.
Creased ribbons may be restored by laying
them evenly on a board, and with a very
clean sponge damping them evenly all over.
Then roll them smoothly and tightly on a
ribbon block, of greater breadth than the rib-
bon, and let them remain until dry. After-
wards transfer to a clean dry block. Then
wrap in brown paper, and keep untrl wanted.
465. To Wash China Crape Scarfs.
If the fabric be good, these articles of dress
can be washed as frequently as may be re-
quired, and no diminution of their beauty will
be discoverable, even when the various shades
of green have been employed among other
colors in the patterns. In cleaning them,
make a strong lather of boiling water, suffer it
to cool; when cold, or nearly so, wash the
scarf quickly and thoroughly, dip it imme-
diately in cold hard water in which a little
salt has been thrown (to preserve the colors) ;
rinse, squeeze, and hang it out to dry in the
open air ; pin it at its extreme edge to the
line, so that it may not in any part be folded
together. The more rapidly it dries the
clearer it will be.
466. To Wash a Black Lace "Veil.
Mix bullock's gall with sufficient hot water to
make it as warm as you can bear your hand
in, and pass the A'eil through it. It must be
squeezed, not rubbed ; and it will be well to
perfume the gall with a little musk. Einse
the veil through two cold waters, tinging the
last with a little blue. After drying, put it
into some stiffening made by pouring boiling
water on a very small piece of glue ; squeeze
it out, stretch it, and clap it. Afterwards, pin
it out on a linen cloth to dry, laying it very
straight and even, and taking care to open
and pin the edge very nicely. When dry, iron
it on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth
over the ironing blanket.
Any article of black lace may be washed in
this manner.
467. To Wash White Silk Stockings.
Heat some rain or soft water, and while on
the fire cut into it slices of good yellow soap,
to make a lather ; put the stockings in while
the lather is warm, but not scalding, and
wash them in two such waters (a wine-glass-
ful of gin in the first water is an improve-
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
61
ment); rinse them well in lukewarm water,
having ready a second rinsing water, in
which is mixed a little blue (not the common
kind, but such as is used for muslins and
laces), or rose pink, which can be procured at
the chemist's, and is used in the same way as
the blue, by tying it up in a piece of flannel
and squeezing it into the water. After rins-
ing, put the stockings between towels and let
them get almost dry ; place them on a small
sheet, lay them out quite flat, as they are
when first purchased, tack them to the sheet
with a needle and thread, turn the sheet over
them, and have them mangled. If it is not
convenient to have them mangled (run be-
tween weighted rollers), the next best plan is
to put four or six stockings one upon the other
between a piece of muslin, lay them on a
stone doorstep, and beat them with the roll-
ing pin. They must not be mangled or beaten
in towels, as the pattern of the towels would
be impressed on them. If the stockings have
lace fronts they will more particularly require
the tacking mentioned above to make them
look nice. No soda or washing powder of
any kind must be put to them, and they
must be done quickly, and not left lying
about.
468. To Clean Soiled Bed Ticks. Ap-
ply starch by rubbing it in thick with a wet
cloth, then put the tick in the sun. "When
dry, rub it with the hands. If necessary, re-
peat the process, and the soiled part will be as
clean as new.
469. To Restore the Gloss Finish on
Woolen Goods, removed by "Washing.
Brush the cloth over, the way of the cloth,
with a brush wetted with very weak gum-
water ; lay over it a sheet of paper or a piece
of cloth, and put it under a weight or in a
screw-press until dry. This will restore the
original gloss to the dull spot often left after
washing out a stain.
470. To Remove Stains from Black
Crape and Mourning Dresses. Boil a
handful of fig-leaves in 2 quarts of water, un-
til reduced to a pint. Squeeze the leaves,
strain the liquor, and put it into a bottle for
use. Bombazines, crape, cloth, &c., should
be rubbed with a sponge dipped in this liquor,
and most stains will be instantly removed.
471. To Clean a White Lace Veil.
Boil the veil gently for 15 minutes in a solu-
tion of white soap ; put it into a basin holding
warm water and soap, and keep gently squeez-
ing it (do not rub it) till it is clean, and then
rinse it from the soap. Then take a vessel of
cold water, into which put a drop or two of
chemic (see No. 162) or liquid blue ; rinse the
veil in it. Have ready some very clear
gum arable water, or some thin rice-water.
Pass the veil through it. Then stretch it out
even, and pin it to dry on a linen cloth, mak-
ing the edge as straight as possible; opening
out all the scallops, and 'fastening each with
pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin muslin
smoothly over it, and iron it on the wrong
side.
472. To Wash White Silk Lace or
Blond. Take a black bottle covered with
clean linen or muslin, and wind the blond
round it (securing the ends with a needle and
thread), not leaving the edge outward, but
covering it as you proceed. Set the bottle
upright in a strong cold lather of white soap
and very clear soft water, and place it in the
sun, having gently with your hand rubbed the
suds up and down on the lace. Keep it in the
sun every day for a week, changing the lather
daily, and always rubbing it slightly when you
renew the suds. At the end of the week,
take the blond off the bottle, and (without
rinsing) pin it backward and forward on a
large pillow covered with a clean tight case.
Every scallop must have a separate pin ; or
more, if the scallops are not very small. The
plain edge must be pinned down also, so as to
make it straight and even. The pins should
be of the smallest size. When quite dry, take
it off, but do not starch, iron, or press it.
Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away in
a pasteboard box.
Thread lace may be washed in the same
manner.
473. To Clean Thread Lace. Thread
lace may be cleaned in the same manner as
in last receipt. Or, when the thread lace
has been tacked to the bottle, take some of the
best sweet oil and saturate the lace thorough-
ly. Have ready in a wash-kettle, a strong
cold lather of clear water and white Castile
soap. Pill the bottle with cold water, to pre-
vent its bursting, cork it well and stand it up-
right in the suds, with a string round the
neck secured to the ears or handle of the ket-
tle, to prevent its shifting about and breaking
while over the fire. Let it boil in the suds for
an hour or more, till the lace is clean and
white all through. Drain off the suds and
dry it on the bottle in the sun. When dry,
remove the lace from the bottle and roll it
round a white ribbon-block ; or lay it in long
folds, place it within a sheet of smooth white
paper, and press it in a large book for a few
In washing laces, put 12 drops aqua ammo-
nia in warm suds.
474. To Prepare Silks for Washing.
Most colors are really improved, by the follow-
ing method, especially red, purple, orange,
blue, olive, puce, <fcc. The more delicate
greens are not improved, neither are they in-
jured. This is likewise the case with laven-
der. If the silk is to be washed in a dress,
the seams of the skirt do not require to be
ripped apart, though ifr must be removed from
the band at the waist, and the lining taken
from the bottom. Trimmings, or furniture
where there are deep folds, the bottom of
which is very difficult to reach, should be un-
done so as to remain flat.
475. To Wash Silks. The article
should be laid upon a clean smooth table. A
flannel should be well soaped, being made
just wet with lukewarm water, and the surface
of the silk rubbed one way, being careful that
this rubbing is quite even. When the dirt
has disappeared, the soap must be washed off
with a sponge, and plenty of cold water, of
which the sponge must be made to imbibe as
much as possible when the washing is done.
As soon as one side is finished, the other must
be washed precisely in the same manner.
Let it be understood that not more of either
surface must be done at a time than can be
spread perfectly flat upon the table, and the
hand can conveniently reach; likewise the
soap must be quite sponged off one porBkm,
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
before the soaped flannel is applied to another
portion. The treatment of silks, after they
have been thus washed, will be described
hereafter. (Sec next receipt.)
Satin ribbons, both white and colored, and
even satin dresses, may be cleansed with
good effect by this process, which is likewise
very effective in renovating all kinds of silk
ribbons and trimmings.
476. To Stiffen Silk for Trimmings.
Sponge the surface of the silk with a weak
solution of gum arabic, or with equal parts
of ale and water, and iron, while damp, on
the wrong side. This is excellent when old
eilk is to be used for trimming, and it is ne-
cessary to keep it stiff.
477. To Wash Silk Pocket Hand-
kerchiefs. Sflk pocket handkerchiefs re-
quire to be washed by themselves, and those
containing snuff should be put to soak in
separate lukewarm water. Two or three hours
after, they should be rinsed out and nut to
soak with the others in cold water for an
hour or two. They should then be washed
out in lukewarm water, being soaped as they
are washed. If all the stains are not out of
them, they must be washed through a second
water of the same description. When fin-
ished, they should be rinsed in cold soft wa-
ter, in which a handful of common salt has
been dissolved. They may be rinsed all to-
gether, being thrown, as fast as they are
washed, into a dry tub, whence, when all are
done, they are transferred to the rinsing tub.
478. To Wash Point Lace. By fol-
lowing the directions laid down in this receipt,
ladies may wash and finish their own point
lace as thoroughly as any French laundress.
Mix a tea-spoonful powdered borax in a basin
of strong white Castile soap-suds. Baste the
lace to be washed, very carefully, with fine
cotton, upon two thicknesses of flannel.
Soak the lace, thus arranged, in the soap-suds
mixture for 24 hours, or longer if very dirty,
changing the suds two or three times. Then
let it lie for 2 or 3 hours in clean water to
rinse, changing the water once. Squeeze it
out (do not wring it), and, when partially dry,
place the flannel with the lace on it, lace
downwards, on two thicknesses of dry flannel
laid on a table, and smooth it with a hot iron.
During the whole process, the lace must re-
main basted on the flannel ; and when it is
pressed, must lie sandwiched between the
dry and damp flannel, and pressed upon the
latter. "When the lace is perfectly dry, rip it
off.
479. Twelvetree's Washing Fluid for
White Linen and Cotton Articles. Set
aside the flannels and colored things, as they
must not be washed in this way, then select
from the clothes to be washed, all the coarse
and dirtiest pieces from the fine; then put
them in separate tubs of soft water to soak
overnight (the night previous to washing.)
Then prepare in a separate vessel, the liquid
for a large washing, namely, % pound of good
brown soap, cut in small pieces; -J pound soda,
and 3 ounces fresh, unslacked lime, mixed in
1 gallon of boiling soft water. Stir well up, so
as to mix the ingredients, and let it stand un-
til morning. Then strain off the liquid, being
careful to leave all sediment behind. Having
ready about 10 gallons of boiling soft water in
the boiler, pour in the prepared liquid (keep-
ing out all settlings that may yet be remain-
ing) then throw in your clothes and boil them
twenty minutes or half an hour. Previous
to which, put an earthen plate at the bottom
of the boiler, to prevent the clothes from
burning. After boiling the appointed time,
take them out; scald them, blue them, and
rinse them in clean soft water, warm or cold, ;
and the clothes will be as clean and white as
snow. By this method, the finest linens,
laces, cambrics, etc., can be readily and easi-
ly cleansed with very little trouble.
Should there be only a small washing, and
less than 10 gallons of water required to boil
them in, less of the liquid of lime, soap, and
soda, can be used in proportion. "When there
is any difficulty in procuring fresh lime, a
quantity of the liquor may be made at once
from the lime, which will keep for years,
corked in bottles, and ready for use.
480. Bingham's Patent Wash Mix-
ture. Take 5 pounds of bar soap, shave fine,
add 1 quart of lye, £ oxmce pearlash, dis-
solved over a slow fire. "When dissolved, put
into a vessel prepared for it to stand in ; then
add J pint turpentine, 1 gill hartshorn ; stir
well, and it is ready for use.
481. To Make Washing Fluid. To 1
fallen of common soft soap, (such as is made
y the usual method of boiling the lye of
wood ashes and fat together), take 4 ounces
sal- soda, -J gallon rain or soft water, and ^ gill
spirits of turpentine ; place them all in a pot
over the fire, and allow the mixture to boil a
few minutes ; it is then ready for use, and can
be kept in any earthen or stoneware vessel.
482. Washing Made Easy. The wash-
erwomen of Holland and Belgium, so prover-
bially clean, and who get their linen so beauti-
fully white, used refined borax as .washing
powder instead of soda, in the proportion of
\ a pound of borax powder to 10 gallons, of
water. They save soap nearly one half. All
the large washing establishments adopt the
same mode. For laces, cambrics, etc., an
extra quantity of powder is used; and for
crinolines (requiring to be made stiff) a
stronger solution is necessary. Borax, being
a neutral salt, does not in the slightest degree
injure the texture of the linen. Its effect is
to soften the hardest water, and therefore it
should be kept on the toilet table.
483. White Lye for Washing. This
is made by pouring a pailful of boiling water
over 4 or 5 quarts of ashes. Let it stand a
while to infuse ; then pour in cold water to
settle it, when yoit can pour it off clear.
This is very good to boil dirty clothes in.
"When made nice, is equal to soda, and does
not, unless made extremely strong, injure the
clothes.
484. To Wash Linen in Salt Water.
Drop into sea water a solution of soda or
potash. It will become milky, in consequence
of the decomposition of the earthy salts, and
the precipitation of the earths. This addition
renders it soft, and capable of washing. Its
milkiness will have no injurious effect.
485. To Wash an Alpaca, Mousse-
line-de-Laine. or Lama Dress that has
Bright or Delicate Colors. Boil 1 pound
best rice in 1 gallon water for three hours.
"When boiled, pour off what will be sufficient
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
63
to starch the dress ; wash the dress well in
the remainder, rice and all, using the rice for
soap; rinse it in clean cold water, wring it
well, then starch it with the rice water that
was kept for that purpose, and hang it before
the fire to dry. When dry enough, iron with
a cool iron, as it is liable to scorch. If some
parts of the dress get too dry, they must be
damped with a wet cloth whilst ironing. No
soap must be used. The best way is to boil
the rice on the previous day, and merely warm
it up the next morning, for then you have the
day before you to complete the whole, as the
dress must on no account lie damp, even for an
hour, or the colors will be sure to run. This
receipt will be found equally well suited to
delicate painted muslins and pique's as to
lama and alpaca dresses.
486. To Wash Colored Muslins. In
washing colored muslins and linens, there are
several very essential points to be observed,
whereby the colors are preserved from injury.
In the first place, they should not be soaped
or soaked over night, as the more delicate
of the hues would be deteriorated by such
process. "When ready for washing, they
should, if not too dirty, be put into cold wa-
ter and washed up very speedily ; if very
dirty, the water may be lukewarm and no
more. But above all, be careful not to use
the smallest particle of soda. The best soap
for washing articles made of this material is
the common yellow. It is much better than
the mottled, because it is less harsh, and re-
, moves the dirt in a shorter period. A small
piece of alum should be boiled in the water in
which the lather is made. The soap should
not be allowed to remain any time on the
linen ; the latter should be soaped and washed
as rapidly as possible, and not lie in the water
any length of time. One article should there-
fore be washed at a time, and immediately
rinsed through two cold waters, the others
remaining in a dry state by the side of the
tub until they are taken to be washed each in
its turn. The liquid in which the articles are
to be rinsed in succession immediately as
they are washed, should consist of 3 or 4 gal-
lons of cold soft water, with a handful of table
salt dissolved in it. Should alum not be added
to the lather, then a tea-spoonful of vinegar
should be stirred into the water for each rins-
ing; this will help to fix and brighten the
colors. The moment an article is taken from
the rinsing tub, it should be wrung very gent-
ly, being twisted as little as can be helped.
After rinsing, they should be hung out imme-
diately to dry.
487. To'Preserve the Colors of Meri-
no, Mousselines -de - Laine, Gingham,
Chintz, and Printed Lawns. Before
washing almost any colored fabrics, it is
recommended to soak them for some time in
water to every gallon of which is added a
spoonful of ox-gall. A tea-cup of lye in a
pail of water is said to improve the color of
black goods, when it is necessary to wash
them. A strong clean tea of common hay
will preserve the color of French linens.
Vinegar in the rinsing water, for pink or
green, will brighten those colors, and soda
answers the same end for both purple and
blue.
The colors of the above fabrics may be pre-
served by using a strong milk-warm lather of
white soap, and putting the dress into it, in-
stead of rubbing it on the material, and stirring
into a first and second tub of water a large
table-spoonful of ox-gall. (See No. 489.)
488. Hints for Washing Colored
Clothes. No colored articles should ever be
boiled or scalded. Neither should they be al-
lowed to freeze, or the colors will be irrepara-
bly injured. They should be ironed immedi-
ately they are dry enough, and not be allowed
to lie damp over night, nor be sprinkled.
They should not be smoothed with a hot iron.
Pink and green colors, though they may
withstand the washing, will frequently change
as soon as a hot iron is put over them.
489. To Prepare Ox-gall for Wash-
ing Colored Articles. Empty the gall in
a bottle, put in it a handful of salt, and keep
it closely corked. A tea-cupful to 5 gallons
of water will prevent colored articles from
fading.
490. The French Method of Wash-
ing Colored Muslins, Piques, &c. Pre-
pare some rather warm (not hot) lather, made
with soft water and the best white soap;
wash the dresses one at a time, but do not
soak them. As soon as the first lather looks
soiled, squeeze the dress from it, and at once
wash it again in a fresh lather. When thor-
oughly clean, rinse in pure cold water, lastly
in water slightly blued ; squeeze (not wring)
the water completely from the dress, and hang
it in a shaded place to' dry ; if wet weather,
dry it by the fire. The best prints will fade
if hung in the sunshine.
491. To Bender the Colors of Cotton
Fabrics Permanent. Dissolve 3 gills of
salt in 4 quarts of water ; put the calico in
while hot, and leave it till cold, and in this
way the colors are rendered permanent, and
will not fade by subsequent washing.
492. To Wash Chintz, so as to Pre-
serve its Gloss and Color. Take 2 pounds
of rice and boil it in 2 gallons of water, till
soft ; when done, pour the whole into a tub ;
let it stand and cool till about the usual
warmth for colored linens ; put the chintz in,
and use the rice instead of soap ; wash it in
this till the dirt appears to be out ; then boil
the same quantity as above, but strain the
rice from the water, and mix it in warm water.
Wash it in this till quite clean; afterwards
rinse it in the water the rice .was boiled in ;
this will answer the end of starch, and no
dew will affect it, as it will be stiff while it is
worn. If a dress, it must be taken to pieces,
and when dried, hang it as smooth as possible ;
when dry, rub it with a smooth stone, but use
no iron.
493. To Wash Flannels or other
Woolen Articles. Have the suds ready
prepared by boiling up some good white soap
in soft water, but do not use the suds when
boiling ; let them be as hot as the hand will
bear when the articles are put in. The flan-
nels should not be rubbed with soap, nor
should the material itself be rubbed, as in
washing linen, <fec., rubbing knots the fibres
of the wool together ; hence the thickening of
the fabric and consequent shrinking in its
dimensions. Sluice the articles up and down
.n plenty of suds, which afterwards squeeze
[not wring) out. The patent clothes-wringers
64:
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
are a great improvement upon hand labor, as,
without injury to the fabric, they squeeze out
the water so thoroughly that the article dries
in considerably less time than it would do
even after the most thorough hand wringing.
After rinsing, squeeze out the water, and dry
in the open air, if the weather is such as to
admit of the articles drying quickly ; if not,
dry in a warm room, but avoid too close
proximity to a fire. Let any dust or mud be
beaten out or brushed off prior to washing.
All flannels should be soaked before they
are made up, first in cold and then in hot wa-
ter, in order to shrink them.
494. To Shrink Flannel. Flannel
should be soaked in cold hard water before
making, and hung up to drain and dry without
any squeezing or handling in the water.
After this it will not shrink in washing. Fill a
tnb with spring water, place the flannel in it,
and take out as soon as it sinks to the bottom.
It does not lose the appearance of new flannel
when dry.
495. To Wash Bed Flannel. To wash
red or scarlet flannel when soiled, mix a hand-
ful of flour in a quart of cold water, and boil
ten minutes. Add this to some warm suds,
and wash the flannel gently; rinsing rather
than rubbing it (see No. 493), rinse it in three
or four warm waters, and the brightest scarlet
will never lose its color. Soft soap or olive
soap should be used for woolen goods in prefer-
ence to bar soap.
496. Scotch Method of Washing
Woolen Shawls. Scrape 1 pound soap,
boil it down in sufficient water. "When cool-
ing, beat it with the hand ; it will be a sort of
jelly. Add 3 table-spoonfuls spirit of turpen-
tine, and 1 of spirit of hartshorn. "Wash the
articles well in it, then rinse in cold water until
all the soap is taken off, then in salt and wa-
ter. Fold between two sheets, taking care
not to allow two folds of the article washed
to lie together. Iron with a very cool iron.
Shflfc-ls done in this way look like new. Only
use the salt where there are delicate colors
that may run.
497. To Make Starch for Linen, Cot-
ton, &c. To 1 ounce of the best starch add
just enough soft cold water to make it (by
rubbing and stirring) into a thick paste, care-
fully breaking all the lumps and particles.
"When rubbed perfectly smooth, add nearly or
quite a pint of boiling water (with bluing to
suit the taste), and boil for at least liatf an
hour, taking care to stir it well all the time,
to prevent its burning. "When not stirring,
keep it covered, so as to protect it from dust,
etc. Also keep it covered when removed
from the fire, to prevent a scum from rising
upon it. To give the linen a fine, smooth,
glossy appearance, and prevent the iron from
sticking, add a little spermaceti (a piece as
large as a nutmeg) to the starch, when boil-
ing, and \ a tea-spoonful of the finest table-
salt. If you have no spermaceti, take a piece
of the purest, whitest hog's lard, or tallow
(mutton is the best), about as large as a nut-
meg, or twice this quantity of the best refined
loaf sugar, and boil with the starch. In iron-
ing linen collars, shirt bosoms, etc., their ap-
pearance will be much improved by rubbing
them, before ironing, with a clean white towel,
dampened in soft water. The bosom of a
shirt should be the last part ironed, as this
will prevent its being soiled. All starch,
should be strained before using.
498. Gum Arabic Starch for Making
Shirt-Bosoms Glossy. Procure 2 ounces
of fine white gum arabic, and pound it to
powder. oSText put it into a pitcher, and pour
on it a pint or more of boiling water, accord-
ing to the degree of strength you desire, and
then, having covered it, let it set all night.
In the morning, pour it carefully from the
dregs into a clean bottle, cork it, and keep,-jt
for use. A table-spoonful of gum Avater stir^>
red into a pint of starch that has been made
in the usual manner, will give a beautiful gloss
to shirt-bosoms, and to lawns (either white or
printed) a look of newness to which nothing
else can restore them after washing. It is
also good (much diluted) for thin white mus-
lin and bobbinet.
499. To Make Starch for Colored Ar-
ticles. For starching muslins, ginghams,
and calicoes, dissolve and add to every pint
of starch, a piece of alum the size of a shell-
bark. By so doing, the colors will keep
bright for a long time, which is very desirable
when dresses must be often washed, and the
cost is but a trifle.
500. To Starch Muslins and Piques.
In getting up muslins and piques, the failure
is not generally in the washing, but in the
starching. A good-sized panful of starch
should be used, in which 3 or 4 inches of
spermaceti candle has been melted whilst hot.
The articles should be thoroughly squeezed
from the starch, and folded whilst wet, be-
tween folds of old sheeting or table linen.
They should then be passed through a wring-
ing machine. All lumps of starch are thus
removed.
Piqu6s should be ironed as lightly as possi-
ble, and the iron ought never to come into
contact with the outside surface of the pique.
An old cambric handkerchief is the best
thing to use under the iron where absolutely
necessary to iron on the right side.
501. To Clear-starch Lace, Cambric
and Book Muslin. Starch for laces should
be thicker and used hotter than for linens.
After the laces have been well washed and
dried, dip them into the thick hot starch in
such a way as to have every part properly
starched. Then wring all the starch out of
them, spread them out smooth on a piece of
linen, roll them up together, and let them re-
main for about half an hour, when they will
be dry enough to iron. Laces should never
be clapped between the hands, as it injures
them. Cambrics do not require so thick
starch as net or lace. Some people prefer cold
or raw starch for book-nraslin, as some of this
kml of muslin has a thick, clammy appear-
ance if starched in boiled starch. Fine laces
are sometimes wound round a glass bottle to
dry, which prevents them from shrinking.
502. To Fold Clothes after Drying
on the Line. Fold the fine articles and roll
theni in a towel, and then fold the rest, turning
them all the right side outward. Lay the col-
ored articles separate from the rest. They
should not remain damp long, as the colors
might be injured, and starched fabrics are apt
to mildew. Sheets and table linen should be
shaken and folded.
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
65
503. To Iron Clothes. In ironin
shirt, first do the back, then the sleeves, then
the collar and bosom, and then the front
Iron calicoes generally on the right side, as they
thus keep clean for a longer time. In ironing
a frock, first do the waist, then the sleeves
then the skirt. Keep the skirt rolled while
ironing the other parts, and set a chair to hole
the sleeves while ironing the skirt, unless a
skirt-board be used. Silk should be ironed on
the wrong side, when quite damp, with an iron
which is not very hot, as light colors are apt to
change and fade. In ironing velvet, turn up the
face of the iron, and after dampening the wrong
side of the velvet, draw it over the face 01
the iron, holding it straight ; always iron lace
and needlework on the wrong side, and put
them away as soon as they are dry.
504. To Restore Scorched Linen.
It is almost needless to premise that if the
tissue of linen is so much burnt that no
strength is left, it is useless to apply the fol-
lowing composition; for nothing could pre-
vent a hole from being formed, although the
composition by no means tends to injure the
fabric. But if the scorching is not quite
through, and the threads not actually con-
sumed, then the application of this composi-
tion, followed by two or three good washings,
will restore the linen to its original color ; the
marks of the scorching will be so totally ef-
faced as to be imperceptible, and the place
will seem as white and perfect as any other
part of the linen. Mix well together 2 ounces
fuller's earth reduced to a powder ; 1 ounce
hen's dung ; £ ounce of cake soap, scraped ;
and the juice of 2 large onions, obtained by
the onions being cut up, beaten in a mortar,
and pressed. Boil this mass in -J- pint strong
vinegar, stirring it from time to time, until it
forms a thick liquid compound. Spread this
composition thickly over the entire surface of
the scorched part, and let it remain on 24 hours.
If the scorching was light, this will prove
sufficient, with the assistance of two subse-
quent washings, to take out the stain. If,
however, the scorching was strong, a second
coating of the composition should be put on
after removing the first ; and this should also
remain on for 24 hours. If, after the linen
has been washed twice or thrice, the stain has
not wholly dissappeared, the composition may
be used again, in proportion to the intensity
of the discoloration remaining, when a com-
plete cure will seldom fail to be effected. It
has scarcely ever happened that a third appli-
cation was found necessary. The remainder
of the composition should be kept for use in
a gallipot tied over with bladder.
505. To Remove the Stain of Per-
spiration. For removing the stain of per-
spiration a strong solution of soda is first to
be applied, with a subsequent rinsing with
water.
506. To Bleach Yellow Linen. Linen
that has acquired a yellow or bad color by
careless washing, may be restored to its
former whiteness by working it well in water
containing a clear solution of chloride of lime,
rinsing it well in clean water, both before and
after using the bleaching liquor. Never at-
tempt to bleach unwashed linen, and avoid
using the liquor too strong, as in that case
the linen will be rendered rotten.
507. To Bleach Yellow Flannel.
Flannel which has become yellow with use
may be whitened by putting it for some time
in a solution of hard soap, to which strong
ammonia has been added. The proportions
are 1£ pounds hard curd soap, 50 pounds of
salt water and $- pound strong ammonia. The
same object may be attained in a shorter
time by placing the garments for a quarter of
an hour in a weak solution of bisulphite of
soda to which a little hydrochloric acid has
been added.
508. How to Whiten Flannel and
Woolen Hose. Wet the flannel yarn or
hose (whatever you wish to whiten) in
weak suds ; wring out. Then hang on sticks
or cords across a barrel with 2 table-spoonfuls
of pulverized brimstone or sulphur burning
under it; cover the barrel tightly. If they
are not white enough, repeat the process ;
hang in the open air a day, then wash and
rinse in bluing water. Be careful not to
have the sulphur blaze and scorch the gar-
ments.
509. To Bleach Brown Sheeting.
Having soaked the cloth 12 hours in strong
soap-suds, take i pound chloride of lime for
every 12 yards of sheeting, and dissolve it in
enough boiling water to cover the cloth when
dipped into it. As soon as the lime is dis-
solved, strain the solution through a flannel
or other coarse cloth, then put the brown
sheeting in the strained lime-water, stirring
constantly, and after it has remained thus in
this liquor for about half an hpur, take out
the cloth and rinse it well in pure water, so as
to be sure to remove all the lime-water ; and
then boil it up in strong soap-suds, and hang
out to dry, and the work of weeks will have
been accomplished in a day or two.
510. Bleaching by Oil of Turpentine.
German authority recommends the use of
oil of turpentine in bleaching white goods.
Dissolve 1 part oil of turpentine in 3 parts
strong alcohol, place a table-spoonful of the
mixture in the water used for the last rinsing.
The clothes are to be immersed in this, well
wrung out, and placed in the open air to dry.
The bleaching action of the oil consists in its
changing oxygen into ozone when exposed to
the light, and in this process the turpentine
disappears, leaving no trace behind.
511. To Clean Straw Bonnets. First
brush them with soap and water ; then with
a solution of oxalic acid.
512. To Clean Door-Plates. To clean
silver door-plates, use a weak solution of am-
monia in water, applied with a wet rag. This
wash is equally useful for silver plate and
"ewelry.
513. To Clean Plated- Ware. Make a
mste with whiting and alcohol, apply it to
;he plated articles, and after it is dry, rub it
off with a brush (if rough), or a soft rag, if
smooth.
514. To Remove Bust Spots from
Marble. Rust spots can be made to disap-
>ear by treatment with a weak solution com-
)osed of 1 part nitric acid and 25 of water,
ind afterward rinsing with waterand ammonia.
515. To Remove Ink Spots from
YEarble. Ink spots may be removed by first
washing with pure water, and then with a
weak solution of oxalic acid. Subsequent
66
THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING.
polishing, however, will be necessary, as the
lustre of the stone may become dimmed.
This can be best secured by very finely
powdered soft white marble, applied with a
linen cloth first dipped in water and then
into the powder. If the place be subsequent-
ly rubbed with a dry cloth the lustre will be
restored.
516. To Remove Copper Spots from
Marble. Copper spots may be removed by
diluted sulphuric acid and ammonia, and sub-
sequently with water and ammonia.
517. To Remove Match Stains from
Marble. Spots from sulphur and phosphorus,
caused by lucifer-matches, can be extracted
from marble by sulphide of carbon.
The Art of Soap-Making.
Soap is a chemical combination of a
fatty substance with caustic lye, the base of
which is either potash or soda; the former
producing soft, and the latter, hard soaps.
519. To Make Soap-makers' Lye.
To 1 part of quicklime, slacked by sprinkling
on it sufficient water to crumble it, add a
solution of 3 parts soda in 5 parts water. For
soft-soap lye, an equal quantity of potash is
substituted for the soda. Stir the mixture
and allow it to settle ; the clear liquid is then
poured off, and constitutes the first lye, and is
of a strength of 25° to 30° Baume" ; the second,
third and fourth lye is each obtained by add-
ing successively 5 parts water, stirring tho-
roughly, allowing it to settle, and pouring off
the clear liquid ; producing respectively a lye
of from 12° to 18°, 8° to 10°, and 2° to 5°
Baume".
520. To Make Soap. Having thus
prepared the lye, the first, second and third
lyes being sufficient for general purposes,
take 20 pounds of pure grease, and melt it
slowly in an iron vessel ; keep it at a moderate
heat, and stir in, a little at a time, 10 pounds
third, lye ; after stirring for about an hour, let
the mixture get up to a boiling heat, and then
stir in, by degrees, 10 pounds second lye ; this
will complete the first stage of the process,
which is termed saponification. The next
step, called cutting up the pan, is to add, by
degrees, a mixture of soda and lye with from
2 to 3 pounds common salt; this separates
the excess of water from the curd, leaving a
soapy paste; boil and stir for some time,
then let it settle, and draw off the water.
The third operation, clear boiling, has now to
be performed ; stir into the paste, by degrees,
5 pounds first lye ; and, when perfectly mixed
and smooth, boil the whole for two hours;
should the soap, during the intervals, become
too liquid, which may happen when too weak
a lye has been used, some salt, or a weak lye
containing salt, must be added. The boiling
is terminated when large, regular, dry scales
appear on the surface ; when this is the case
let it settle, and draw off the fluid which re-
mains. Put the soap into frames lined with
cotton cloth which has been well powdered
with a mixture of lime and starch, and as soon
as the soap has become firm, lay it out to
dry.
521. Hard and Soft Soap. Soaps are
thus of two kinds, hard and soft, this condi-
tion being influenced both by the fat and
alkali employed. The firmer and harder the
fat, the solider will be the resulting soap.
With the same alkali, therefore, tallow will
make a harder soap than palm or olive oil,
and stearic acid than oleic acid. But the
consistence of soaps depends far more upon
the alkali employed. Potash is very deliques-
cent, that is, has a strong attraction for water,
so that when exposed it will absorb it from
the air and run down into a fluid or semi-fluid
state. The potash retains this water in the
condition of soap, so that potash soaps are
always liquid and soft. The hard soaps,
therefore, all contain soda, those with tallow
or stearic acid being the hardest. Potash
soaps will not dry, but retain their soft, jelly-
like condition, while some kinds of soda soap
become so hard by drying that at last they
can be pulverized. The admixture of a very
small quantity of sulphate of soda hardens
soap and also checks waste from too rapid
solubility in hot water. "When soda and
potash alkalies are used in combination, a pro-
portion of from 10 to 20 per cent, of the latter
is employed, according to the degree of hard-
ness the soap is desired to possess.
522. Common Yellow Soap. Com-
mon yellow hard soap consists of soda, with
oil or fat and resin. Eesin is a feeble acid,
capable of combining with alkali, but neu-
tralizing it less completely than oil, so that
the compound or soap formed is too power-
fully alkaline. But when resin is worked
with an equal or larger proportion of oil, it
makes an excellent soap for many purposes.
523. Beef Tallow. This fat, on account
of its abundant supply, is the most used by
soap and candle makers. It is not as white
as many other animal fats, and the best quali-
ty, the North American, contains about 70 per
cent, of stearine. It does not melt below 111°
Fahr., but may afterwards be cooled down to
102° without solidifying, and when cold, is
firm, and even brittle.
524. Mutton Suet. This is generally
firm, white, and very rich in steainne ; this
latter quality gives it a tendency to produce a
soap of too hard and brittle a nature for
general use, which is obviated by mixing about
one-fifth or one-sixth part of lard, or some
other more oleaginous fat ; thus modified it
is specially adapted for stock for toilet soaps.
525. Lard. The best quality of lard
melts at 81° Fahr., and contains about 60
per cent, of oily fat, known as lard oil, and
about 30 per cent, solid stearine. It makes a
pure, white soap, and is frequently combined
with tallow or other saponaceous fat.
526. Bone Fat, obtained by boiling
fresh bones, split open lengthways, is very
well adapted for making soaps, but generally
undergoes a process of purification before be-
ing thus employed. (See No. 534.)
527. Cocoanut Oil possesses two promi-
nent qualities which specially recommend it
as an ingredient in soap-making. It imparts
a great degree of firmness to the soap, prob-
ably owing to the solid form of the fatty acids
found in it. It will also unite permanently
with soda lyes in any proportion ; and, in
combination with other fat substances, im-
parts whiteness and emollient properties to
THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING.
67
them ; it also froths as well in cold as in hot
water, which is not the case with tallow
soaps worked with soda.
528. Palm Oil. This substance is used
in the manufacture of soap. Its genuine
quality is easily tested by its solubility in
acetic ether, the imitations sometimes sold
under the same name being insoluble in
it. It is used in its natural state, but its dis-
tinctive qualities and white color are greatly
increased by bleaching. (See No. 537.)
529. To Clarify^Fat Used in Making
Fine or Toilet Soaps. Heat the fat in a
clean iron or copper kettle, applying just heat
enough to melt it thoroughly ; then filter it
through fine linen or muslin.
530. To Deodorize Fat for Making
Perfumed Soap. Boil for 10 minutes 100
pounds of the fat with about 35 pounds water
containing G ounces common salt and 3 ounces
powdered alum ; strain the water off, and let
the fat rest for some hours before using.
531. To Prevent Fatty Substances
from Turning Rancid. Boil for about 10
minutes with the salt and alum solution, as
in last receipt ; strain the water off, and then
gently simmer the clarified fat with 4 ounces
benzoin and 1 gallon rose water; skim off
and let it cool. Fat thus treated will keep
for years.
532. To Grain or Granulate Tallow.
Melt the tallow and stir it with twice its
quantity of water at a blood heat until it is
cold ; strain the fat from the Avater, and dry
by exposing it to a current of dry air. Tallow
in this granulated form combines more readily
with lye for soap-making purposes. (See No.
535.)
533. To Purify Tallow and Other
Fats. Tallow and other fats are commonly
purified by molting them along with water,
passing the mixed fluids through a sieve, and
letting the whole co«l slowly, when a cake of
cleansed fat is obtained. Another plan is to
keep the tallow melted for some time, along
with about 2 per cent, of oil of vitriol largely
diluted with water, employing constant agita-
tion, and allowing the whole to cool slowly ;
then to re-melt the cake with a large quantity
of hot water, and to wash it well. Another
method is to blow steam for some time through
the melted fat. By either this or the prece-
ding process a white hard tallow may be ob-
tained. Some persons add a little nitre to
the melted fat, and afterwards a little dilute-
nitric or sulphuric acid, or a solution of bisul-
phate of potash. Others boil the fat along
with water and a little dilute nitric or chro-
mic acid, and afterwards wash it well with
water.
534. To Purify Bone Fat. Melt the
fat with a small quantity of saltpetre (nitrate
of potassa); then add sufficient sulphuric
acid to decompose the saltpetre. The mass,
after the scum is removed, becomes a light yel-
low color, and is completely deprived of all
offensive smell and animal impurities.
535. To Keep Tallow from Turning
Rancid. Cut 50 pounds tallow into slices,
and boil it in about 2$ gallons water containing
2 ounces alum and 4 ounces salt ; strain the
fat from the liquid, and wash it in clean wa-
ter; put into a clean barrel twice as much
water at a blood heat as there is grease, and
dissolve in the water about 1 part of clean
soap to 10 parts of the grease; next warm the
grease to a blood heat and pour it into the bar-
rel of water, stirring it together until cold ;
let it rest until the fat has risen to the sur-
face, when the water must be drawn away
through a hole in the bottom of the barrel,
hitherto tightly corked. The fat in a granu-
lated state must be thoroughly dried by ex-
posure to a current of dry air; and, when per-
fectly dry, packed in barrels or other vessels.
The graining of the fat at the same time
greatly facilitates its combination with lye for
the purposes of soap-making.
536. To Preserve Grease. Boil all the
scraps, rinds, and bones, in a weak lye, and
the purer grease in clear water. Let the mix-
ture cool, take off the cake of grease, and
strain it. It is well to do this occasionally,
as you save it ; for when kept a long time im-
pure grease becomes offensive. You must be
careful to dry off all the water before laying
it away in the grease tub, if you wish it to
keep sweet. The best plan to collect dripping
is to put it while warm into water nearly
cold. Any impurities it may contain will
sink to the bottom.
537. To Bleach Palm Oil. Dissolve i
pound powdered red chromate of potassa in
about a quart hot water. 100 pounds palm
oil are heated in a wooden tank, by steam, to
a temperature of 120° Fahr. The steam is
then turned off and a portion of the chrome
solution is stirred in, followed by a propor-
tional quantity of 1 pound strong muriatic acid.
After the whole of the solution and of the
acid has been thoroughly mixed with the
palm oil, stir in J pound sulphuric acid. The
oil becomes black, then dark green, and finally
light green, with a thick froth on the surface.
If; when the mixture has settled, the oil is not
sufficiently bleached, the operation has to be
repeated, using less proportion of chrome
and acids. "When the bleaching is complete,
the oil is allowed to stand for an hour to clear;
it is then run into a wooden tank with some
water, and heated again, to wash out any salts
that may remain in it, and after a time drawn
off ready for use. Palm oil is usually com-
bined with from 3 to 5 times its weight of tal-
low to make soap, and is serviceable in resin
soap to brighten its color and disguise the
resin.
538. Filled Soap. Hard soaps are usu-
ally made according to the process before de-
scribed (see No. 520), the excess of water being
separated from the paste by the use of salt: this
class of soap is termed grained soap. But there
are some kinds — cocoanut oil and soda soap,
for instance — that are so hard in their nature
that the operation of salting, or graining, is
needless, the water remaining incorporated in
the paste; soaps of this class are called filled
soaps.
539. To Make Talk>w Soap. The
French Method. Melt in a boner, by a
moderate heat, 500 pounds tallow ; stir in, by
degrees, 35 to 40 gallons caustic soda lye of
10° to 12° Baume, and let it boil gently for
several hours ; then add, gradually, IB to 20
gallons caustic soda lye of 15° to 18° Baume,
and mix until the whole becomes a homogene-
ous mass of a grayish color ; keep the mix-
ture boiling gently for some hours, adding to
68
THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING.
it every hour 3 to 4 gallons caustic soda lye of
20° Baume. This will occupy 10 or 12 hours.
The salting process then follows, and is con-
ducted as described in No. 520. After the
separation oj graining is finished the paste is
allowed to stand for a few hours, and the lye
is drawn off through a faucet inserted for the
purpose in the side of the boiler, near the bot-
tom. The mass is again boiled for some
hours, adding every hour 2| gallons soda lye
of 25° Baum6, until the hard scales rise to
the surface. (See No. 520.) The fire should
then be extinguished, and after an hour the
under-lye is to be drawn off. Then boil again
for H to 2 hours with about 25 gallons soda
lye of 4° Baume, stirring from tune to time.
The fire should then be removed, and the pan
covered up ; the soap will rise to the top of
the lye, and may be poured into the frames,
care being taken that no lye gets mixed with
the soap. This should yield about 850 pounds
of soap.
540. Tallow Resin Soap. About 15
per cent, of resin can be mixed with tallow
without injuring the color and firmness of the
Boap. A larger proportion deteriorates the
quality and produces an inferior soap. Some
soap-makers melt the resin and tallow togeth-
er before saponifying; but it is better to
make a soap of each in separate boilers, and
then mix and boil them together thoroughly
for half an hour, and strain through a sieve
before filling the frames.
541. To Make Resin Soap. Boil 12
gallons caustic soda lye of 30° Baum6 in a
kettle, and add 100 pounds well pulverized
resin, 10 or 15 pounds at a time, stirring con-
stantly and thoroughly, the heat being kept
up to or nearly at boiling point. Saponifica-
tion will be effected in about 2 hours. The
lightest resin is the best for soap.
542. Cocoanut Oil Soap. Put 100
pounds cocoanut oil and 100 pounds caustic
eoda lye of 27° Baum6 into a soap kettle ;
boil and mix thoroughly for 1 or 2 hours, until
the paste gradually thickens ; then diminish
the heat, but continue stirring till the cooling
paste assumes a white, half-solid mass ; then
transfer quickly to the frames. A mixture of
equal parts of cocoanut oil and tallow will
make a very fine filled soap. (See No. 538.)
Cocoanut oil mixed with almost any fats,
if they are not in too large proportions,
will produce filled soaps.
543. Palm Oil Soap. Palm oil is sel-
dom used alone as a saponaceous fat, but is
employed in conjunction with other fats, and
with resin ; this latter being usually saponi-
fied separately and mixed afterwards. (See
No. 540.) The directions for making tallow
soap apply equally well to palm oil. The fol-
lowing are among the best mixtures and pro-
portions of palm oil for soaps :
30 pounds palm oil, 20 pounds tallow, and
2 pounds resin.
30 pounds palm oil, 50 pounds tallow, and
20 pounds resin.
90 pounds palm oil and 10 pounds cocoanut
oil.
15 pounds palm oil, 55 pounds lard,
pounds cocoanut oil, and 5 pounds clarified
resin.
544. To Make Soap from. Grained
Tallow. Mix 6 pounds caustic soda and 2
pounds caustic potash with 17 to 20 gallons
hot water ; put a portion of this lye into a
clean barrel; stir in by degrees 25 pounds
grained tallow ; add the rest of the lye and
stir it briskly for at least an hour ; then let it
rest, and before it is cold pour it into a frame
or box, and finish according to No. 520.
545. Dawson's Patent Composite
Soap. Strong potash lye, 75 pounds; tal-
tow, 75 pounds; cocoanut oil, 25 pounds.
Boil until the compound is saponified in the
usual manner.
To make 30 pounds of the new composi-
tion, take 2 gallons boiling soft water in a ket-
tle, add -J pound sal soda, 2 ounces borax, 2
table-spoonfuls spirits of turpentine, and 1
tea-spoonful linseed oil. Stir this mixture un-
til the borax and soda are dissolved ; then add
15 pounds of the above soap made from lye,
tallow, and cocoanut oil; and continue the
boiling with stirring for 15 minutes, until the
whole is incorporated and dissolved. Now
add 2 ounces spirits of hartshorn, and stir.
It may be scented with any essential oil, or
odor, and colored, if desired ; then run off
and molded into cakes fit for toilet use. It is
a good soap for chapped hands, and is free
from any disagreeable odor. •
546. Chemical Soap. Powdered ful-
ler's earth, 1 ounce ; just moisten with spirits
of turpentine ; add salt of tartar, 1 ounce ;
best potash, 1 ounce ; work the whole into a
paste with a little scap. It is excellent for
removing grease spots.
547. To Make Hard White Tallow
Soap. Dissolve 2 pounds sal soda in 1 gal-
lon boiling soft water ; mix into it 2 pounds
fresh slacked lime, stirring occasionally for a
few hours ; then let it settle, pour off' the
clear liquid, and boil 2 pounds tallow in it un-
til all the tallow is dissolved. Cool it in aflat
box, and cut it into bars or cakes. It can be
scented by stirring in the desired perfume
when cool.
548. To Make Home-made Caustic
Soda. Dissolve 6 pounds common washing
soda in 4 gallons warm water ; slack 6 pounds
clean fresh quicklime in a tub, using only as
much water as is needed to crumble it perfect-
ly ; add the slacked lime to the solution of
soda ; stir the two together, adding 4 gallons
boiling water; stir thoroughly and let it settle;
then pour off the clear lye for use.
549. To Make Domestic Soap. Put
the caustic soda lye, prepared in the manner
and quantity given in the last receipt, into a
clean iron kettle, and add, during continual
stirring, 12 pounds clarified grease, dusting in,
a little at a time, 4 ounces finely powdered
borax; let it boil gently for 10 or 15 minutes,
until it thickens and becomes ropy ; then have
in readiness a tight box, lined with a piece of
muslin large enough to hang well over the
sides, to allow of the contents being after-
ward conveniently lifted out ; pour the mix-
ture from the kettle into the box, and let it
stand for a few days to harden ; when suffi-
ciently linn, turn it out onto a table, 'and cut
it into bars with a thin wire. Soap thus made,
and left to harden in a dry room, will bo fit
for use in a month.
550. To Make Home-made Caustic
Lye from Ashes. Provide a box whose
sides terminate in a point, and having an ori-
TOILS? SOAPS.
69
fice at the lower end (see illustration); thii
should be mounted high enough to allow
of a vessel being placed underneath itj to re-
ceive the liquid that runs out of the bottom.
The box is then well lined with straw (see
No. 607), upon which fresh wood ashes are
placed, adding to the ashes about one twen-
tieth the quantity of fresh slacked lime (see
No. 519); then pour hot water upon it, and
the lye will filter through into the vessel be-
low. For the purposes of soap-making, this
lye must be concentrated by boiling until a
sound potato will not sink below the surface.
551. To Make Home-made Soap.
Fill an iron kettle two-thirds full of the con-
centrated lye prepared according to the last
receipt ; add to it melted fat, a ladleful at a
time, stirring constantly until the mass be-
comes creamy ; next add small quantities of
salt at a time, stirring without intermission
until a perfect ring can be made on the surface
with a stick ; then let the fire go out and the
soap will rise to the surface and harden as it
cools ; the lye can be drawn from under it by
tilting the kettle, or the soap may be lifted off
and laid out to dry until hard enough to cut it
into bars. (See No. 549.)
552. Ox-gall Soap. Gall soap, for the
washing of fine silken cloths and ribbons, is
prepared in the following manner: In a
vessel of copper 1 pound cocoanut oil is heated
to 60° Fahr., and •$• pound caustic soda is
added, with constant stirring. In another
vessel \ pound white Venetian turpentine is
heated, and when quite hot, stirred into the
copper kettle. This kettle is then covered
and left for 4 hours, being gently heated, after
which the fire is increased until the contents
are perfectly clear ; then 1 pound ox-gall is
added. After this, sufficient perfectly dry
Castile soap is stirred into 1^he mixture to
cause the whole to yield but little under the
pressure of the finger ; for which purpose,
from 1 to 2 pounds of soap are required for
the above quantity. After cooling, the soap is
cut into pieces. It is excellent, and will not
injure the finest colors.
Toilet SpapS. To this class be-
long the finer kinds of scented soaps,
which have emollient properties. They are
rarely made direct by the perfumer, the body
or basis being a well-selected white soap, subse-
quently cleaned and purified. For the choic-
est grades, the body should be made of a mix-
ture of olive and sweet-almond oil, as the fat
stock. Lard and beef tallow make the next
best stock ; and for palm soap a small quanti-
ty of bleached palm oil is to be added to them.
Cocoa oil and pale yellow resin saponaceous
matters also enter into the composition of cer-
tain toilet soaps. These body soaps may be
obtained as wanted from any well-conducted
soap factory. To be adapted to the purposes
of perfumery they must be perfectly neutral,
firm, free from unpleasant odor and all tenden-
cy to crust in cold, or sweat in damp weather.
They should, moreover, give a rich lather
without wasting too rapidly in the water.
Soaps, generally, in their original condition,
are usually deficient in many of those points ;
and must, for the purposes of perfumery, un-
dergo a refining process, which is as follows :
554. To Refine Soap for Making
Toilet Soap. The soap, as purchased in
bars or blocks, being piled upon the shelf of
the rasping machine, is next placed in the
hopper, and as the wheel revolves, knives
come against the soap and cut it into meal,
which falls into the reception box beneath.
It is now in a state fit to be melted readily,
for which purpose it is transferred to a steam
bath, and mixed with rose and orange-flower
waters, each half a gallon, to every hundred
pounds of soap. The steam being let on, and
the containing kettle covered, its contents be-
come gradually fluid, and in this state must
be stirred with a crutch — which is a long stick
having the form of an inverted T — until the
paste becomes uniformly consistent and
smooth throughout. It is then allowed to
cool, again melted, but without fragrant wa-
ter, and crutched as before. When the con-
tents of the vessel comprise several kinds of
soap, great care must be observed not to put
in all at once, but to add and melt each suc-
cessively, and to crutch constantly, so as to
effect an intimate mixture. When the paste
begins to cool, coloring matter as may be de-
sired is then added, and subsequently the per-
fume, which is reserved to the last, to avoid
any unnecessary loss by evaporation from the
hot paste.
55'5. To Perfume, Cut and Stamp
Toilet Soap. When extracts or bouquets
are used, they must be added to the com-
pound in meal, and incorporated with the
mass by kneading it with the hands; for the ap-
plication of heat would impair the delicacy of
the odor, as well as occasion loss by its evap-
oration. In large establishments this is done
by passing the meal repeatedly between mar-
ble rollers.
The soap is now ready to be put into the
;ooling frames, which is a rectangular well,
made of a series of wooden frames, resting
successively one upon the other. In a day or
two it is sufficiently hard to be cut into tab-
lets of the size of the sections of each frame ;
they are set up edgewise, and left for several
days to dry, and are then barred by means of
a wire. The sections or lifts of the frames
regulate the width of the bars, and the gauges
adjust their breadth — these latter being made
so as to cut bars or squares of four, six, eight
or any required number to the pound of soap.
The bars are further subdivided into tablets,
and subjected to pressure for the purpose of
imparting solidity, and ornamenting the exte-
rior with some appropriate device, or impress-
ing upon it the maker's name ; the shape of
the tablet being determined by the form of the
70
TOILET SOAPS.
mould or die-box in which it is pressed. The
press is of ordinary construction, with spiral
springs to throw out the soap tablet from the
die-box as soon as it is pressed. In some fac-
tories the pressure is more effectually accom-
plished by means of a steam hammer, which is
made to give three blows, directly vertical, to
each tablet of soap. Savonettes or soap-balls
are shaped by rotating blocks of soap upon a
soap scoop made of brass, with sharp edges.
556. To Marble Soap. The mottled or
marble appearance is usually given to soap,
on the large scale, by watering the nearly fin-
ished soap with a strong lye of crude soda
(preferably one rich in sulphurets), by means of
a watering-pot furnished with a rose-spout. In
Castile soap it is given with a solution of sul-
phate of iron, used in the same way. On the
small scale, with toilet soaps, the mottle is
either given in the way noticed under "Mottled
Soap Balls " (see No. 576),or, in alike manner,
by combining some of the soap, colored at
the time of scenting it, with the remaining
uncolored portion.
557. Almond Soap. This is a very
white soap, which, when genuine, is made by
the cold process (see Nos. 582 and 583), and
from pure oil of sweet almonds. The kind,
however, generally met with, is made as fol-
lows : White curd soap, 100 pounds ; cocoa-
nut oil, 15 pounds ; purified as before directed
(see No. 554), and perfumed with a mixture of
attar of bitter almonds, 1£ pounds ; and attars
of cloves and caraway, each 8 ounces.
558. White Windsor Soap. The gen-
uine old white "Windsor is made from a body
of which a mixture of lard and olive oil is the
fat stock ; and attars of caraway, lavender,
and rosemary, constitute the perfume.
The modern "Windsor soap is made from
fine white curd soap, 115 pounds ; cocoanut-
oil soap, 20 pounds ; perfumed with a mixture
of attar of caraway, 1£ pounds; attars of
thyme and rosemary, each 8 ounces ; and at-
tars of cassia and cloves, each 4 ounces.
559. Brown Windsor Soap. Curd
soap, 100 pounds ; cocoanut oil soap, and pale
yellow resin soap, each 25 pounds ; color with
caramel (see No. 694), 8 ounces; and perfume
with a mixture of attars of caraway, cloves,
thyme, cassia, petit-grain, and lavender, each
8 ounces. Morfit's oleic soap, of first grade,
is peculiarly adapted as a body for brown
"Windsor soap, as it gives a rich lather, and is
very smooth and highly emollient. More-
over, it contains its normal moisture for a
great length of time.
560. Honey Soap. "White curd soap, 40
pounds; melted and crutched with white
honey, 10 pounds; storax, 2 pounds; and
powdered benzoin, 1 pound.
561. Imitation Honey Soap. An im-
itation honey soap is made by melting togeth-
er pale j^ellow soap, 100 pounds ; soft soap, 14
pounds ; and perfuming with attar of citron-
ella, 1£ pounds.
562. Frangipani Soap. Curd soap,
colored brown with caramel, 7 pounds ; per-
fumed with a mixture of attars of neroli and
vitivert, each 4 ounces ; attar of rose, 2
drachms; attar of santal, 1£ ounces; and
civet, 2 drachms. The latter is to be pre-
viously triturated with the attars.
563. Rose Soap. This is made from a
mixture of olive oil soap, 60 pounds; and
curd soap, 40 pounds ; colored with 1 pound
of finely bolted vermilion. The perfume con-
sisting of attar of rose, 6 ounces ; attars of
santal and geranium, each 1 ounce ; and tinc-
ture of musk, 8 ounces ; must be added to the
cold soap in meal, and incorporated by knead-
ing. The oil soap may be replaced by curd
soap, but the quality of the rose soap will not
then be so fine.
564. Savon au Bouquet. "White soap,
60 pounds ; perfumed in the cold with 8
ounces of extract bouquet; or in warm paste
with a mixture of attar of bergamot, 8 ounces ;
attars of cloves and sassafras, each £ ounce ;
attar of thyme, 1 ounce; attar of neroli, 1
ounce. The soap body must be previously
colored brown with 1 pound of caramel. The
soap scented with the attars is inferior to that
perfumed with extract bouquet. The per-
fume, and with it the title of the soap, can be
varied according to the caprice of- fashion.
565. Poncine Soap. Curd soap, 50
pounds ; cocoanut oil soap, the same quanti-
ty, melted to paste and crutched with 10 or
20 pounds of finely bolted pumice-stone pow-
der. The perfume is a mixture of attars of
thyme, cassia, caraway, and lavender, each 1
pound.
566. Spermaceti Soap. The genuine
spermaceti soap is superior to all others in
emollient properties ; but it is rarely made
from pure stock, owing to the difficulty in
saponifying it. As generally vended it con-
sists of white curd soap, 14 pounds ; perfumed
with a mixture of attar of bergamot, 2£
ounces, and attar of lemon, 8 ounces.
567. Palm Soap. Curd soap, made of
a mixture of $ lard, -J- bleached palm oil, and
the remainder olive oil or spermaceti, consti-
tutes the body of palm soap. Its natural
odor is that of the violet, which is some-
times stimulated by the addition of a little
attar of portugal, with a less portion of attar
of cloves.
568. Floating Soap. All the hard
soaps increase bulk by mechanical batting of
the paste ; the loss of density thus produced
gives them the property of floating in water.
The batting is best accomplished by means of
a churn-twirl, rotating on a pivot in the bot-
tom of the melting pan, and put in motion by
a handle.
Expose 5 pounds olive-oil or almond soap,
and 1 J pints soft water in a bright copper pan,
to a steam or water heat, and assiduously beat
and agitate the mixture until it has more than
double its volume ; then pour it into a cold
frame, cool it quickly, and, when hard, cut it
into bars or cakes. It may be colored and
scented at will. Floats on water, and lathers
freely, but will not bear soaking or much wet,
as it rapidly softens.
569. Transparent Soap. This amber-
looking soap is made by dissolving hard
white soap, previously reduced to meal and
thoroughly dried, in alcohol. A steam-bath,
fitted with a still-head, makes a good con-
taining vessel. The alcohol and soap are
taken in about equal proportions ; and, as the
solution proceeds, any spirit which may distill
over must be allowed to condense in a worm,
and collected in a receiver. The heat should
not exceed 212°. After solution, the whole
TOILET SOAPS.
71
must be allowed time for settling; after
which, the clear fluid is t6 be drawn off from
the sediment into wooden frames ; or globular
moulds of britannia metal, if it is desired to
cast it in ball form. Previous to settling it
may be colored as desired — red, with tincture
of alkanet ; yellow, with tincture of turmeric ;
orange, with a mixture of the two tinctures ;
green, with tincture of chlorophyle; blue,
with tincture of indigo carmine. Transparent
soap is rather translucent when first made,
and does not clear until perfectly dry. The
perfumes are the same as for the other soaps.
570. Glycerine Soap. Any mild toilet
soap (as the basis of bouquet, rose, or "Wind-
sor soap) with which about ^5- to -fa of its
weight of Price's glycerine has been intimate-
ly incorporated whilst in the melted state. It
is generally tinged of a red or rose color,
with a little tincture of archil or of dragon's
blood ; or orange yellow, with a little an-
natta. It is variously scented; but oil of
bergamot, or rose-geranium (ginger-grass),
supported with a little oil of cassia, or cassia
supported with essential oil of almonds, ap-
pear to be its favorite perfumes.
571. Musk Soap. Best tallow soap, 30
pounds ; palm oil soap, 20 pounds ; powdered
cloves, pale roses and gilliflowers, of each 4£
ounces ; essence of bergamot and essence of
musk, of each 3£ ounces ; Spanish brown, 4
ounces.
572. Orange Flower Soap. Best tal-
low soap, 30 pounds ; palm oil soap, 20
pounds ; essence of portugal and essence of
ambergris, each 7-J ounces; yellowish green
coloring, made of ochre and indigo, 8J ounces ;
vermilion, 1J ounces.
573. .Cinnamon Soap. This is usually
a mixture of tallow and oil soaps, like that of
" savon au bouquet," colored with about £
pound yellow ochre, and scented with 1 ounce
oil of cinnamon (supported with a little oil of
bergamot and sassafras), to each 7 pounds.
The following is the form of a celebrated maker
of this soap, and is very fine :
6 pounds finest white curd soap ; "3^ pounds
finest palm oil soap ; 1 pound oh' ve oil soap ;
H ounce oil of cinnamon ; £ ounce oil of
bergamot ; J- ounce oil of sassafras ; 1 drachm
English oil of lavender; and about £ pound
levigated yellow ochre.
Oil of cassia is commonly substituted for
the oil of cinnamon; and always so in
second and inferior qualities.
574. Glycerine Soap Balls. To any
recently made toilet soap, sliced, and melted
by a gentle heat, without water (if possible),
add Price's glycerine, in the proportion of 1
ounce to the pound ; thoroughly incorporate
them by vigorous stirring, which should be
continued until the mass has cooled consider-
ably, when it should be at once made into
balls.
575. Sand Soap Balls. These are pre-
pared by adding to the melted soap about half
its weight of fine siliceous sand. Sifted sand
is usually employed. Some persons prefer
the shelly sea- sand (sifted from the shells and
well washed) for the purpose. For the finer
qualities, finely-powdered pumice-stone is now
usually employed. Used to prevent rough-
ness and thickening of the skin in cold weath-
er ; also to clean the hands when dirty. The
best yellow soap, with or without the addition
of £ its weight of white soft soap and a little
sweet oil, is the best for these balls.
576. Mottled Soap Balls. Cut the soap
(recently prepared, and not too dry) into dice,
or small square pieces, roll them in colored pow-
der (see below), and then mould them into
balls by powerful pressure, observing to mix
the colors as little as possible.
The colors usually employed, and which
should be in very fine powder, are : Slue —
indigo, powder-blue, or smalts. Green — pow-
der-blue and bright yellow-ochre. Orange —
yellow deepened with a little red. Bed —
red bole, sesquioxide of iron, or jeweler's
rouge. Yellow — bright yellow-ochre, or Dutch
pink.
By varying the shade of color, which is
done by diluting it with a little farina or chalk,
and by using soap-dice separately coated with
two or more colors, " mottled savonettes " of
any color, or mixture of colors, may be pro-
duced at will.
577. Mercurial Soap. Take of corro-
sive sublimate (crushed small), 1 drachm ;
rectified spirit (to dissolve, say) 1 fluid
ounce; white Castile soap (in powder), 4
ounces; beat them to a uniform mass in a
wedgwood-ware mortar, adding a few drops
of attar of roses, or of a mixture of the oils
of cassia and bitter almonds. Nothing me-
tallic must touch it. This is the " sapo hy-
drargyri bichloridi " of medical writers. The
above has .been recommended in various skin
diseases, including itch ; also as " Savon An-
tisyphilitique," under which name it is often
sold.
578. Sulphur Soap; Sulphuretted
Soap. Take £ pound white curd or Castile
soap (recent); 1 ounce best flowers of sulphur
(levigated); 1 fluid ounce rectified spirit
(strongly colored with alkanet) ; and sufficient
attar of roses to strongly scent the mass.
Beat the whole together, to a smooth paste,
in a marble or wedgwood ware mortar.
This is Sir H. Marsh's formula. Recom-
mended in itch, and various other skin dis-
eases. It is particularly serviceable as a com-
mon toilet soap, to persons troubled with
slight cutaneous eruptions. Its daily use
tends to render the skin fair and smooth.
The spirit and coloring may be omitted at
will ; and, as a toilet soap, only half the
above quantity of sulphur is amply sufficient.
579. Caution in using Medicated
Soaps. Before using mercurial or sulphur
soap, finger-rings, ear-rings, and bracelets of
gold, &c., should be removed, and not re-
placed until some short time after the hands
have become quite dry ; as otherwise they
will be tarnished, and even blackened and
corroded. The same applies to all other cos-
metics containing the same mineral ingre-
dients.
580. Whale-oil Soap to Destroy In-
sects. Render common lye caustic, by boil-
ing it at full strength on quicklime; then
take the lye and boil it with as much whale-
oil foot as it will saponify (change to soap),
pour off into moulds, and, when cold, it is
tolerably hard. "Whale-oil foot is the sedi-
ment produced in refining whale oil.
581. Carbolic Acid Soap. Take freshly
prepared cocoanut-oil soap, 150 parts, and fuse;
SOAP BY THE COLD PROCESS.
then add a solution of alcohol, 10 parts ; car-
bolic acid, 6 parts ; caustic potassa, 2 parts ;
oil of lemon, 1 part ; and mix with stirring.
To be poured into moulds.
Soap by the Cold Process.
Although the commoner kinds of soap
are usually made by boiling, they can be
made by the cold process if desired ; and the
fatty substances employed are substantially
the same in both methods. The cold or little-
pan process is, however, almost exclusively
adopted in the manufacture of fancy or toilet
soaps, and for these purposes the fat requires
to be purified and deodorized, especially where
any delicate scent is to be used in perfuming
it. (See Nos. 533 and 530.) The lye em-
ployed for saponification without boiling must
be much stronger than that used in the boil-
ing process, and should be entirely clear and
colorless; a strength of about 36° Baum6 is
nsually necessary.
583. To Make Soap by the Cold Pro-
cess. Incorporate by degrees 50 pounds
concentrated caustic lye of 36° Baum6, into
100 pounds fat at a temperature not higher
than 104° Fahr. (sec No. 523); continue to stir
thoroughly with a broad wooden paddle, until
a complete ring can be drawn on its surface
with the paddle. In making scented soap,
the perfuming ingredients must now be stirred
in. The paste is then run into frames lined
with linen, flaps of which should be left above
the edges of each frame, wide enough to ad-
mit of their being laid over the surface of the
paste, with which the frame must be entirely
filled. The paste being thus completely con-
fined by the linen, the frames are closed with
a wooden cover and left for 12 hours. Dur-
ing this interval the temperature of the paste
in the frames rises spontaneously to a much
higher degree, producing complete saponifica-
tion. The soap is afterwards taken out of the
frames, cut, and dried. The hardness of the
soap will depend on the description of fats
and lyes used. (See No. 521.)
584. Method of Testing Caustic
Alkali. The strength and practical value of
commercial caustic soda or potash can only
be ascertained by analysis. The methods
given below are simple, and will determine,
with sufficient accuracy, the percentage of
water, caustic alkali, and carbonated alkali
contained in a given sample ; and hence the
quantity of impurity, if any.
585. To Find the Percentage of Wa-
ter in a Caustic Soda or Potash. Weigh
carefully 100 grains of the alkali into a cap-
sule (a flat evaporating dish of suitable size,
a watch glass is a small capsule), and dry
them by heating over a flame ; a cold glass
held over the contents of the capsule will
show the slightest evaporation of water.
When no more moisture can be detected, al-
low them to cool ; then weigh the residue in
the capsule, and the difference of the weights
before and after drying will be the number of
grains of water contained in 100 grains of the
alkali ; that is, the percentage of water.
586. To Estimate the Percentage of
Caustic Alkali in a Caustic Soda or
Potash. Powder 100 grains of the alkali to
be tested ; put it into a flask containing an
ounce of 95° alcohol, and shake thoroughly ;
the alcohol dissolves the caustic alkali per-
fectly, but will not take up any other in-
gredients. After standing for a few hours to
settle, decant the clear liquid, and evaporate
on a porcelain capsule until thoroughly dry ;
the weight of the dry residue will be the num-
ber of grains, i. c., the percentage, of caustio
alkali in 100 grains of the soda or potash.
587. To Find the Percentage of Car-
bonated Alkali in a Caustic Soda or Pot"
ash. Dissolve 100 grains of the sample in 4
ounces water in a flask ; next weigh out 100
grains finely powdered crystals of oxalic acid ;
add small portions of this acid at a time to
the alkali in the flask, stirring thoroughly
with a glass rod, and apply heat ; continue ttf>
add the acid until the hot mixture tinges lit-
mus paper slightly red ; the saturation is then
complete, and the acid has neutralized or com-
bined with all the alkali, both carbonate and
caustic. Weigh the oxalic acid which re-
mains ; and, by deducting from 100, we know
how much we have used. Now every 7.87
grains oxalic acid that have been used, have
neutralized 5 grains soda or 7 grains potash,
according as the sample consists of caustic
soda or caustic potash ; hence we find the
total number of grains of alkali in the 100
grains under test. By the previous method
we can find the percentage of caustic alkali in
100 grains of the sample ; deducting the
grains of this latter from the weight of the
whole alkali eliminated by the oxalic acid, the
balance or remainder will be the percentage
of carbonated alkali.
By these three steps we get the percentage
of water, the percentage of caustic alkali, and
the percentage of carbonated alkali ; these
added together and deducted from 100 give
the percentage of foreign matter or impurity
in the matter tested. (See Alkalimetry.)
588. To Make Soap-makers' Concen-
trated Caustic Lye. Boil 85 gallons water
in a kettle capable of holding 150 gallons;
stir in, a little at a time, 100 pounds powdered
soda (or potash, if for potash lye), until it
is all dissolved; then mix in gradually, by
stirring, 48 pounds freshly slacked lime of a
creamy consistency ; the boiling must not be
allowed to slacken during the whole process,
until complete causticity is obtained, which
may be ascertained by taking a little in a test
glass, and, lohen cool, adding to it a few drops
of nitric acid ; if this causes effervescence, the
causticity is imperfect and the boiling must be
continued until a test with nitric acid causes
no effervescence. When this is the case, the
contents of the kettle should be allowed to
cool and settle for about 12 hours. The clear
liquor can then be drawn off into a vat lined
with lead — a syphon may be used for this pur-
pose with advantage. The lye can be made
to any desired strength by evaporation.
5819. To Make Concentrated Caustic
Soda Lye— Kurten's Method. The lye fit
for toilet soap must be either made from the
purest German soda at 95 degrees of strength,
or (which is better for the purpose) from
crystallized soda. English soda of 80 to 83
degrees, such as is generally found in com-
merce, is not to be used, as it produces a bad
article.
SOFT SOAPS.
73
When the lye for finer soap is to be made,
100 pounds lime are added to 100 pounds
German soda at 95 per cent., whereas 45
pounds lime to 100 pounds crystallized soda is
the general proportion.
The soda is dissolved in the boiler with
water, or with a weak lye remaining from a
former operation at 20 degrees of strength,
and afterwards added to the lime slacked to a
state like broth. This mixture must boil 2
hours and be left to deposit.
The next day, the lye, which probably may
be at 12 degrees (Baume") must be taken out,
and the boiler filled afresh. The lye drawn
from the lime and at 8 degrees, is poured in
with it to evaporate. By this method a lye is
produced at a medium of 9 or 10 degrees, but
it must be evaporated till, according to
areometer, it shows 34 degrees. After the
cooling it will weigh 36 pounds. This evap-
oration of the lye is to increase its causticity,
and to cause all the dirt contained in it to
precipitate to the bottom, which can be done
in a day if it is sufficiently strong.
The clear lye is then drawn off from the
dirty deposit, and put either into vitriol bottles
or into an iron vessel well covered. If vitriol
bottles are used, they must be filled with
water in which some lime has been dissolved,
to take away any acid remaining in the bottle,
which would, if this precaution be not taken,
absorb much of the causticity of the lye ; and
this must be done several days before using
the bottles. The dirt and deposit from the
salt remaining at the bottom after the boiling,
can be added to the lime in the weak lyes.
"We have not made the experiment of using
the lye stronger than 11 degrees before evap-
oration, as we have learned from France that
it must not be stronger than 11 degrees. Yet,
after mature experience, it appears to us
now that a lye can be obtained quite as good
by adding more soda and lime to the lye, and
thus increasing the strength to 18 or 20 de-
grees, by which the evaporation is spared.
In this case more vessels are wanted, which
must not be of wood, but of iron, because the
wood will color the lye, which must be
especially avoided for fine soap, for the only
means of obtaining a perfect soap, free from
defect, is to use none except the finest and
whitest lye, and oil or grease of the greatest
purity.
590. To Test Lye. In testing the
strength of lyes with a hydrometer, an exact
result could be obtained if the caustic alkali
employed by soap-makers and dyers were
absolutely pure ; but as this is seldom, if
ever, the case, the impurities which exist in
the lyes under examination, influence the
specific weight of the lye, and due allowance
must be made for this ; thus, an indication by
the hydrometer of 20 per cent, does not prove
that the lye contains 20 per cent, of pure
caustic alkali, but includes the foreign matter.
Still, this method of testing will give com-
parative strengths exactly.
591. White Soap. Lard, 40 pounds;
and caustic soda lye, of 35° Baume", 20
pounds. Melt the fat by a heat not exceeding
150° Fahr.; add, during constant stirring, 10
pounds of the lye. After one hour's stirring,
the heat being continued all the time at a
moderate degree, the remaining 10 pounds of
lye are to be added. When the paste has be-
come smooth and uniform throughout, it is
transferred to a cooling frame, perfumed, and
left in a room of moderate temperature for a
few days to set and ripen. It is then ready
to be cut into tablets and pressed.
592. Almond Soap. Genuine almond
soap is made from oil of sweet almonds, 50
pounds, and soda lye of 36° Baume, 25
pounds, the latter being gradually added to
the former at a temperature between 125° to
150°, and the whole stirred constantly until
the mixture is a smooth paste. It is then
transferred to a cooling frame, perfumed with
attar of bitter almonds, and then left for
several days to set and ripen.
593. Ordinary Cocoanut Oil Soap.
100 pounds cocoanut oil — or 90 pounds cocoa-
nut oil and 10 pounds of either tallow or palm
oil — saponified by the cold process with 225
pounds caustic soda lye of 21° Baume', and 75
pounds of salt water of 12° Baume", will com-
bine to form 400 pounds of cocoanut oil soap.
594. Cocoanut Oil Soap. 100 pounds
cocoanut oil and 56 pounds caustic soda lye of
36° Baum6, treated according to the cold
process, will produce 153 pounds cocoanut oil
soap.
595. Paris Toilet Tablet Soap. 87
pounds of this soap can be made by the cold
process by using the following ingredients : 20
Eounds tallow, 30 pounds cocoanut oil, 8 pounds
ird, 31 pounds caustic soda lye of 36° Baume,
and 5 pounds caustic potash lye of the same
strength.
596. Paris Toilet Round Soap. 25
pounds cocoanut oil, 75 pounds lard, 50 to 52
pounds caustic soda lye of 36° Baume", will
produce 150 pounds of the soap.
597. Shaving Soap. Either 66 pounds
tallow and 34 pounds cocoanut oil— or 33
pounds of tallow, the same quantity of palm
oil, and 34 pounds cocoanut oil — treated by
the cold process with 120 pounds caustic soda
lye of 27° Banine", will make 214 pounds of
shaving soap. An addition of 12 pounds of
salt water of 12° Baume to the palm oil mix-
ture, will add 12 pounds to the yield of soap.
598. Washing Soap. A mixture of
either 60 pounds tallow — or 30 pounds each of
tallow and palm oil — with 40 pounds of cocoa-
nut oil, treated by the cold process with 125
pounds caustic soda lye of 27° Baume, and
25 pounds salt water of 12° Baume', will turn
out 244 pounds washing soap.
599. Cheap Washing Soap. 60 pounds
cocoanut oil with 40 pounds of either tallow
or palm oil, treated cold with 135 pounds
caustic soda lye of 27° Baume", and 50 pounds
salt water of 15° Baume", will produce 278
pounds washing soap.
Soft SoapS. These differ from the
hard soaps in having potash in place
of soda as their alkaline base. They are all
more or less pasty or gelatinous; and they
may be made either by the boiling or cold
process. Of the soft soaps used in perfumery,
that known as fig soap is the only one that is
boiled.
601. Fig Soap. The fat stock is chiefly
oil — generally olive oil — with the addition of
SOFT SOAPS.
a little tallow to give it the granular appear-
ance called fig.
602. Shaving Cream. This is made by
melting 20 pounds of lard in a steam bath at
a temperature of 212°, and then letting 5
pounds of caustic potassa lye of 36° Baurne
run in very slowly, during constant stirring with
a wooden paddle; when the paste becomes
thick, 5 pounds more of lye are added in the
same manner. After several hours' stirring
the paste becomes firm, and is finished. It is
then transferred to a mortar and triturated
until the soap becomes perfectly even through-
out, and assumes a pearly appearance. Attar
of almonds is the perfume for almond cream ;
and attar of rose for rose cream. They are
dissolved in a little alcohol, and added during
the trituration. The rose cream is colored at
the same time with tincture of alkanet.
603. Rypophagon Soap. This is a
mixture of equal parts of pale yellow resin
soap and fig soft soap, perfumed with attars
of anise and citronella.
604. Essence of Soap or Shaving
Cream. Take J pound white soft soap (see
No. 606), 2 fluid drachms liquor of potassa ;
1 pint rectified spirit, and perfume at will;
put them into a strong bottle of glass or tin,
cork it close, set it in warm water for a short
time, and occasionally agitate it briskly until
solution be complete. After repose, pour off
the clean portion frojn the dregs (if any) into
clean bottles for use, and at once closely cork
them. If the solution be not sufficiently
transparent, a little rectified spirit should be
added to it before decantation. A little spirit
(fully proof) may be added if it be desired to
render it thinner. If much essential oil be
used to perfume it, the transparency of the
product will be lessened.
605. Soft Olive Oil Soap; Medicinal
or Toilet Soft Soap is soap made of olive oil
and potash. It is yellowish- white, inodorous,
and of the consistence of thick honey. It is
the soft soap (sapo mollis) of the British
Pharmacopojia.
606. White Soft Soap is soap made of
lard and potash. Only used in. cosmetics and
as a toilet soap.
607. Fine Shaving Cream. Take of
clarified lard, 7 pounds (avoirdupois) ; potash
lye (26 percent, of caustic potash), 3f pounds ;
rectified spirits, 3 ounces ; oil of bitter al-
monds, 2 drachms. Melt the lard in a porce-
lain vessel, by a salt-water bath ; then run in
the lye, very slowly, agitating the whole
time ; when about half the lye is in, the mix-
ture begins to curdle ; it will, however, be-
come so firm that it cannot be stirred. It
will assume a pearly appearance by triturating
in a mortar, and slowly adding the alcohol,
holding the oil of almonds in solution. This
furnishes a splendid shaving cream.
608. To Make Good Common Soft
Soap. For a ban-el of soap take 12 pounds
of potash to 14 pounds of grease. Dissolve
the potash over night in 2 pailfuls of hot soft
water, in the morning pour it hot over the
grease, which must have been previously
rendered down and put in the barrel, put
more water on the potash that remains undis-
solved; when hot, add as before, and so on
until all the potash is dissolved ; fill up the
barrel more slowly with cold water, finishing
it the next day; stir it very frequently during
the day and for several successive days. Al-
low it "to rest for three months in the cellar.
609. Shaker Method of Making Soft
Soap. Place a shallow iron kettle, to hold
from 4 to 6 ban-els, just out of the wash-room,
under cover of a shed. Extend £ or £ inch
pipe for steam to the middle of the bottom,
bending it to form of surface, and terminating
with open end. Take another pipe to dis-
charge cold water over the top of the kettle.
Use the best quality of first sorts of potash,
in the proportion of 6 pounds of potash to 7
pounds of grease, for a ban-el of 40 gallons.
Break up the potash into small lumps, and
dissolve it in say 2 pails of hot water to 24
pounds. It dissolves rather slowly when the
potash is good. "When dissolved, put the so-
lution into the kettle, add the grease quite
warm, and stir the mixture together. Allow
it to stand over night, if convenient. In the
morning, apply a moderate jet of steam until
the mixture appears ropy, or rather soapy.
Shut off the steam and open the cold water
valve, stirring the mixture as the water runs,
until the kettle is full, or the required quantity
obtained for the materials used.
610. To Make Good Lye. Hickory
ashes are the best for making common wash-
ing soft soap (when it is not desirable to use
the potash lye), but those from sound beech,
maple, or almost any kind of hard wood, ex-
cept oak, will answer well. A common
barrel, set upon an inclined platform, makes
a very good leach, but one made of boards set
in a trough in V shape is to be preferred, for
the strength of the ashes is better obtained,
and it may be taken to pieces when not in
use, and laid up. First, in the bottom of the
leach put a few sticks ; over them spread a
piece of carpet or woolen cloth, wliich is
much better than straw ; put on a few inches
of ashes, and from 4 to 8 quarts lime ; fill
with ashes, moistened, and tamp down well —
tamp the firmest in the centre. It is difficult
to obtain the full strength of ashes in a barrel
without removing them after a day's leaching,
and mixing them up and replacing. The top
should be first thrown oft', and new ashes
added to make up the proper quantity. Use
boiling water for second leaching. This lye
should be sufficiently strong to float a potato.
611. To Make Soft Soap. Take
about 4 gallons the above lye, and boil up
thoroughly with 12 pounds of clear grease,
then add the lye as it is obtained, keeping a
slow fire, and stirring often, until you have
a barrel of soap. After boiling the grease
and 4 gallons of lye together, it may be put
in a ban-el and the rest of the lye added there,
which will form good soap .if frequently
stirred, but the heating process is the best
when weather and time will permit the work
to be done.
612. To Make Soft Soap. Break up 8
pounds potash into small lumps, and put it
into an iron pot with about 3 gallons boiling
water; melt in another iron pot 8 pounds
clarified fat; put 3 or 4 gallons hot water into
a clean barrel, and add to it a ladleful each of
the lye and the fat ; stir thoroughly, and add
the lye and the fat, a single ladleful of each
at a time, until the whole is thoroughly
mixed ; then stir in a ladleful of hot water at
SOFT SOAPS.
75
a time until the barrel is full, and stir till the
mixture becomes a creamy mass ; put it away
for 3 months in a moderately cool place anc
it will be ready for use.
613. To Make Turpentine Soap.
Cut up 3 pounds brown soap and melt it in 7
quarts water, then put it in a stone pot anc
add 9 table -spoonfuls spirits of turpentine anc
6 of alcohol.
614. To Use Turpentine Soap. Make
very hot suds with some of the soap (see las
receipt), and let the clothes remain in it hall
an hour. Then wash them out and rinse at
other clothes are done. It is particularly nice
for blankets and quilts, as it removes the dirt
and requires very little rubbing.
615. To Make Soft Soap Hard. Put
into a kettle 4 pailfuls of soft soap, and stir in
it, by degrees, about 1 quart of common salt.
Boil until all the water is separated from the
curd, remove the fire from the kettle, and
draw oft' the water with a syphon (a yard or
so of india rubber hose will answer). Then
pour the soap into a wooden form in which
muslin has been placed. (See No. 549.) For
this purpose, a wooden box, sufficiently large
and tight, may be employed. "When the soap
is firm, turn it out to dry, cut into bars with a
brass wire and let it harden. A little
powdered resin will assist the soap to harden,
and give it a yellow color. If the soft soap is
very thin, more salt must be used.
616. Labor-saving Soap. Take 2
pounds sal soda, 2 pounds yellow bar soap,
and 10 quarts water. Cut the soap in thin
slices, and boil together 2 hours; strain, and
it will be fit for use. Put the clothes in soak
the night before you wash, and to every pail
of water in which you boil them, add a pound
of soap. They will need no rubbing; merely
rinse them out, and they will be perfectly
clean and white.
617. To Estimate the Quality of
Soap. The quality of soap may be properly
estimated from the amount of fatty acids
which any given specimen contains. The
following simple analysis may be performed
by any one, and may be relied upon as giving
good results. The soap to be examined
should be dissolved in water. If distilled
water cannot be readily obtained, rain water
will answer well enough. When a perfect
solution is obtained, add hydrochloric acid.
After a little while the fatty acids will be
found to be separated from the other con-
stituents of the soap. These should be col-
lected, and their relative weight for any given
quantity estimated. The relative weight thus
found will be a sufficiently just indication of
the quality.
618. To Test Soap. The readiest way
to find whether soap will injure the delicate
skin of women or children is to test it with
the tongue. Good soap, in which the caustic
alkali is neutralized by thorough combination
with the fat, will not have a sharp taste.
The soap used in medicine, and the transpar-
ent soaps, are neutral and good. Many toilet
soaps, and especially the imitation marbled
castile soap, so abundant in the trade, contain
too much free alkali. They have not been
thoroughly boiled, and are very sharp. It is
not advisable to use such soaps upon delicate
skins, as they induce redness of appearance,
and give the skin a tendency to roughen or
chap, especially when exposed to the wind.
619. To Pulverize Hard Soap. Hard
bar soap should be scraped or planed into fine
shavings, dried in the sun, or by heat,
thoroughly, and then pounded or crushed.
After this, it should be placed in a bowl or
kettle, and a small cannon ball should be used
to pulverize it ; when thoroughly pulverized
it may be sifted through a very fine sieve.
620. To Analyze Soap. Take a small
portion of the soap, place it in a suitable
vessel (a beaker glass), add ether to it, and
next acetic acid in a somewhat smaller quan-
tity. The liquid will separate, after a while,
into two distinct layers, the upper of which
contains in solution the fatty acids, while the
lower layer contains the alkalies and salts,
and such substances as might happen to be
insoluble in the two fluids just named. By
means of a pipette, the fluids are separated
from each other. The ethereal solution is
poured into a previously weighed beaker glass,
and the ether evaporated upon a water bath,
and next again weighed with the fatty acids
it contains. The aqueous acetic acid is
evaporated to dryness, and the quantity of
alkali determined according to well-known
methods. (See No. 586).
621. Analysis of Soda and Potassa
Lyes. The following tables will show at a
glance all the practical information necessary
for analyzing or testing the strength of lyes,
either simple or caustic, as well as affording
thorough guidance in mixing or adjusting the
strength of lye for any specific purpose.
622. Lorme's Tables. The following
tables are used to transform stronger lyes into
weaker of a definite degree of strength, and
are by Mr. Eugene Lorme.
The first column at the left of each table
shows the quantity and the degree of the lye
to be diluted.
The second indicates the quantity of water
to be added to the lye.
The third gives the amount of the lye ob-
tained by the admixture of both liquids.
The fourth exhibits the degrees of Baume'a
areometer of the lye.
623. Table showing the different
Areometric Degrees resulting from a
mixture of 10 gallons of soda lye, of 36
degrees Baume, with quantities of water
varying from 10 to 90 gallons.
Number of
gallons
of Lye of 36
degrees.
Number of
gallons
of Water.
Number of
gallons
of obtained
Lye.
Degrees of
Baume of
the mixture.
10
10
20
23°
10
20
30
17
10
30
40
14
10
40
50
12
10
50
60
10
10
60
70
9
10
70
80
8
10
80
90
7J
10
90
100
6i
10 gallons of lye, of 36 degrees Baumo,
weigh 112^ Ibs.
76
SOFT SOAPS.
624. Table showing the different Areo-
metric Degrees resulting from a mix-
ture of 10 pounds of soda lye, of 36 de-
grees Baume, with quantities of water
varying from 10 to 90 pounds.
627. Gerlach's Table, showing the
percentage of Carbonate of Soda con-
tained in its Solutions.
Per cent.
Specific
Weight.
Per cent.
Specific
Weight.
Number of
pounds
of Lye of 36
degrees.
Number of
pounds of
Water to be
employed.
Number of
pounds
of Lye
obtained.
Degrees of
Baume of
the mixture.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
1.00914
1.01829
1.02743
1.03658
1.04572
1.05513
1.06454
1.07396
1.08337
1.09278
1.10258
1.11238
1.12219
1.13199
1.14179
1.15200
1.16222
1.17243
1.18265
1.19286
1.20344
1.21402
1.22459
1.23517
1.24575
1.25681
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
1.26787
1.27893
1.28999
1.30105
1.31261
1.32417
1.33573
1.34729
1.35885
1.37082
1.38279
1.39476
1.40673
1.41870
1.43104
1.44338
1.45573
1.46807
1.48041
1.49314
1.50588
1.51861
1.53135
1.54408
1.55728
1.57048
10
10
10
10
10
* 10
10
10
10
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
21°
14*
Hi
10
9
8
6i
H
5 nearly
8.8 gallons of lye, of 30 degrees Baume',
weigh 100 pounds.
625. Table showing the different Areo-
metric Degrees resulting from a mix-
ture of 10 gallons of soda lye, of 30 de-
grees Baume, with quantities of water
varying from 10 to 90 gallons.
Number of
gallons
of Lye of 30
degrees.
Number of
gallons of
Water to be
employed.
Number of
gallons
of Lye
obtained.
Degrees of
Baume of
the mixture.
628. Schiffs Table, showing the
percentage of Crystallized and Anhy-
drous Soda in Solutions of Carbonate of
Soda.
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
19°
nearly 14
11
9
8
7
6
5
4J
Specific Weight.
Per cent, of
Crystallized
Soda.
Per cent, of
Anhydrous
Soda.
1.0038
1.0076
1.0114
1.0153
1.0192
1.0231
1.0270
1.0309
1.0348
1.0388
1.0428
1.0468
1.0508
1.0548
1.0588
1.0628
1.0668
1.0708
1.0748
1.0789
1.0830
1.0871
1.0912
1.0953
1.0994
1.1035
1.1076
1.1117
1.1158
1.1200
1.1242
1.1284
1.1326
1.1368
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
'28
29
30
31
32
33
34
0.370
0.741
1-112
1.482
1.853
2.223
2.594
2.965
3.335
3.706
4.076
4.447
4.817
5.188
5.558
5.929
6.299
6.670
7.041
7.412
7.782
8.153
8.523
8.894
9.264
9.635
10.005
10.376
10.746
11.118
11.488
11.859
12.230
12.600
10 gallons of soda lye, of 30 degrees, weigh
104 pounds ; 75 gallons of this lye and 25 gal-
lons of water give 100 gallons of lye of 25
degrees Bamne. There are 23J pounds ot
caustic soda wanted for making 10 gallons of
lye of 30 degrees Baume'.
626. Table showing the different Areo-
metric Degrees resulting from a mix-
ture of 10 pounds of soda lye, of 30 de-
grees Baume, with quantities of water
varying from 10 to 90 pounds.
Number of
pounds
of Lye of 30
degrees.
Number of
pounds of
Water to be
employed.
Number of
pounds
of Lye
obtained.
Degrees of
Baume of
the mixture.
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
17°
12
9*
n
6*
5*
5or5i
4i
4
9.6 gallons of lye, of 30 degrees Baume',
weigh 100 pounds.
TO MAKE HOME-MADE TALLOW CANDLES.
77
SchiflPs Table (Continued).
Per cent, of
Per cent, of
Specific Weight.
Crystallized
Anhydrous
Soda.
Soda.
1.1410
35
12.971
1.1452
36
13.341
1.1494
37
13.712
1.1536
38
14.082
1.1578
39
14.453
1 . 1620
40
14.824
1.1662
41
15.195
1.1704
42
15.566
1.1746
43
15.936
1.1788
44
16.307
1.1830
45
16.677
1.1873
46
17.048
1.1916
47
17.418
1.1959
48
17.789
1.2002
49
18.159
1.2045
50
18.530
629. Table showing the percentage
of Anhydrous Potassa in Caustic Po-
tassa Lye.
Specific
Potassa in
Specific
Potassa in
Gravity.
100.
Gravity.
100.
1.3300
28.290
1.1437
14.145
1.3131
27.158
1.1308
13.013
1.2963
26.027
1.1182
11.882
1.2805
24.895
1.1059
10.75
1.2648
23.764
1.0938
9.619
1 .2493
22.632
1.0819
8.487
1.2342
21.500
1.0703
7.355
1.2268
20.935
1.0589
6.224
1.2122
19.803
1.0478
5.002
1.1979
18.671
1.0369
3.961
1.1838
17.540
1.0260
2.829
1.1702
16.408
1.0153
1.697
1.1568
15.277
1.0050
0.5658
630. Table showing the percentage
of Caustic Soda in Soda Lye.
Specific
Gravity.
Per cent.
Specific
Gravity.
Per cent.
1.4285 30.220
1.2392
15.110
1.4193
29.616
1.228
14.503
1.4101
29.011
1.2178
13.901
1.4011
28.407
1.2058
13.297
1.3923
27.802
1.1948
12.692
1.3836
27.200
1.1841
12.088
1.3751
26.594
1.1734
11.484
1.3388
25.989
1.1630
10.879
1.3583
25.385
1.1528
10.275
1.3505
24.780
1.1428
9.670
1.3425
24.176
1.1330
9.036
1.3349
23.572
1.1233
8.462
1.3273
22.967
1.1137
7.857
1.3198
22.363
1.1042
7.253
1.3143
21.884
1.0948
6.648
1.3125
21.894
1.0855
6.694
1.3053
21.154
1.0764
5.540
1.2982
20.550
1.0675
4.835
1.2912
19.945
1.0587
4.231
1.2843
19.341
1.0500
3.626
1.2775
18.730
1.0414
3.022
1 .2708
18.132
1.0330
2.418
1 .2642
17.528
1.0246
1.813
1.2578
16.923
1.0163
1.209
1.2515
16.319
1.0081
.604
1.2453
15.814
1.0040
.302
To Make Home-made Tal-
low CaildleS. Tallow candles
are made in. two different forms ; the mould
sandle is the easiest to make, but involves the
expense of a mould made expressly for the
rarpose ; the dip candle requires mare trouhle,
jut no apparatus to make it ; the first cost,
lowever, of a candle mould is fully compen-
sated for by the superiority of the candles
made by it over those made by dipping.
632. To Make Candle Wicks. The
wicks are composed of cotton yam (what is
known as No. 16 is a good size for the pur-
)ose) ; for candles of 8 to the pound, about 40
ihreads, and for 6 to the pound, about 50
.hreads of yarn should be very loosely twisted
.ogether. The light from a tallow candle
can be improved in clearness and brilliancy by
using small wicks which have been dipped in
spirit of turpentine and thoroughly dried.
633. To Make Mould Candles. The
wicks are secured in the centre of each mould
jy passing over thin sticks, one of which is
iaid over the top of the mould (corresponding
to the bottom of the candles), and the other
against the bottom points of the moulds. The
end of the twisted wick is fastened to the
stick on the top of the mould, and is drawn
by a piece of hooked wire, through each
mould in succession, leaving a loop outside
the bottom points of the mould ; the loops
are secured there by the bottom stick passing
through them; the wicks are to be drawn
tight and the last end tied to the upper stick.
The melted tallow is then poured into the
moulds and allowed to stand about 6 hours in
a cool place, after which the bottom stick
must be taken out of the loops, and the can-
dles withdrawn from the moulds. The tallow-
should not be heated much more than is ne-
cessary to melt it.
634. To Make Dip Candles. Dip can
dies are made by looping a number of sepa-
rate wicks over a rod, and dipping them into
very liquid tallow, until the required thick-
ness is attained, allowing the tallow which
adheres after each dipping to set or harden be-
fore dipping again. Before the second dip, it
is well to lay the wicks on a flat surface, and
straighten them, and a suitable contrivance
adopted for holding the rod while drying be-
tween the dips.
635. Tallow for Making Candles. A
good tallow for candles consists of about $• beef
and f- mutton suet. If required for summer use
it will be improved by hardening according to
receipts No. 639 or 640 ; it can, if needed, be
so hardened as to have almost the appearance
of stearine. (See No. 638.)
636. To Make Lard Candles. To every
8 pounds of lard add 1 ounce of nitric acid.
Having carefully weighed the lard, place it
over a slow fire, or at least merely melt it ;
then add the acid, and mould the same as tal-
low ; this makes a clear, beautiful candle. A
small proportion of beeswax will make them
harder.
637. To Harden Tallow Candles.
The following mixtures for hardening tallow-
candles are patented in England. The can-
dles are successively and rapidly dipped, first
in Mixture I., which consists of stearic acid,
50 parts ; tallow, 44 parts ; camphor, 3 parts ;
78
TANNING.
•white resin, 2 parts ; and gum damar, 1 part.
"When cool and hard they aredippedinto Mix-
ture II., which consists of stearic acid, 70
parts; tallow, 24 parts; camphor, 3 parts;
white wax, 2 parts ; gum damar, 1 part ; and
finally into Mixture III., which is composed
of stearic acid, 90 parts; tallow, 5 parts;
camphor, 3 parts ; white wax, 2 parts.
638. To Harden Tallow by Capaccio-
ni's Process. Melt 1000 parts tallow, and
gradually stir into it 7 parts sugar of lead
previously dissolved in water, being careful to
Keep the mass constantly agitated during the
process. In a few minutes diminish the heat,
and add 15 parts incense (powdered) with 1
part turpentine, keeping the mass constantly
stirred as before. Then allow the mixture to
remain warm until the insoluble parts of the
incense settle to the bottom, usually several
hours. By this process the sugar of lead so
hardens the tallow that it yields a material
very similar to stearine (stearic acid), while
the incense improves its odor. It is said that
tallow treated in this way, when made into
candles, will not gutter or run.
639. To Harden and Whiten Tallow
for Summer Use. Gently boil the tallow
with the addition of a little beeswax, 1 or 2
hours a day for 2 days, in a suitable kettle,
adding weak lye and skimming often ; cut it
out of the pot when cold, and scrape off the
underneath soft portion, adding fresh but
weak lye before the second boiling. The
third day simmer, and skim it, in water con-
taining 1 pound of alum and 1 pound saltpe-
tre for each 30 pounds of tallow. "When cold
it can, be taken off the water for use. Tallow
thus treated will make good hard white can-
dles for summer purposes.
640. To Harden Tallow for Making
Candles. Use 1 pound of alum for each 5
pounds of tallow. Dissolve the alum in wa-
ter, then put in the tallow and stir until both
are melted together, then run in moulds.
Candles made in this way will be as hard and
white as wax.
641. To Harden Tallow with Resin.
To 1 pound tallow take J pound common res-
in ; melt them together, and mould the can-
dles the usual way. This will give a candle
of superior lighting power, and as hard as a
wax candle; a vast improvement upon the
common tallow candle, in all respects except
color.
Tanning. "When the skin of an an-
imal, carefully deprived of hair, fat,
and other impurities, is immersed in a dilute
solution of tannic acid, the animal matter grad-
ually combines with the acid as it penetrates
inwards, forming a perfectly insomble com-
pound, which resists putrefaction completely ;
this is tanned leather. In practice, lime wa-
ter is used for cleansing and preparing the
skin; water acidulated with oil of vitriol (sul-
phuric acid) for raising or opening the pores ;
and an infusion of oak bark or some other
astringent matter for the source of the tannic
acid. The process is necessarily a slow
one, as dilute solutions only can be safely
used. Skins intended for curriers, to be
dressed for "uppers," commonly require
about 3 weeks ; thick hides, suitable for sole-
leather, take from 12 to 18 months. Yarious
modifications have been introduced into the
process, for the purpose of reducing the time
required for tanning, but so far with only mod-
erate success, as the leather so produced is
spongy and inferior in quality.
643. Morocco Leather is prepared from
goat or sheep skins; which, after the action of
lime water and a dung bath, are slightly
tanned in a bath of sumach, and subsequently
grained and dressed.
644. Russia Leather is generally
tanned with a decoction of willow bark, after
which it is dyed, and curried with the einpy-
reumatic oil of the birch tree. It is this oil
which imparts to Kussia leather its peculiar
odor, and power of resisting mould and damp.
645. To Tan any kind of Fur Skins.
This will be found an excellent plan for tan-
ning any kind of skin with the fur on. After
having cut off the useless parts, and softened
the skin by soaking, remove the fatty matter
from the inside and soak it in warm water for
an hour. Next, mix equal parts of borax,
saltpetre, and glauber salts (sulphate of soda),
in the proportion of about -J ounce of each for
each skin, with sufficient water to make a
thin paste ; spread this with a brush over the
inside of the skin, applying more on the thick-
er parts than on the thinner : double the skin
together, flesh side inwards, and place it in a
cool place. After standing 24 hours, wash the
skin clean, and apply, in the same manner as
before, a mixture of 1 ounce sal soda, -J ounce
borax, and 2 ounces hard white soap, melted
slowly together without being allowed to boil;
fold together again and put away in a warm
place for 24 horn's. After this, dissolve 4
ounces alum, 8 ounces salt, and 2 ounces sal-
eratus, in sufficient hot rain water to saturate
the skin; when cool enough not to scald the
hands, soak the skin in it for 12 hours ; then
wring out and hang it up to dry. When dry
repeat this soaking and drying 2 or 3 times, till
the skin is sufficiently soft. Lastly, smooth
the inside with fine sand paper and pumice
stone.
646. To Tan Sheep's Pelts with the
Wool On. "Wash the pelts in warm water,
and remove all fleshy matter from the inner
surface ; then clean the wool with soft soap,
and wash clean. "When the pelt is perfectly
free from all fatty and oily matter, apply the
following mixture to the flesh side, viz.: For
each pelt take common salt and ground alum,
1 pound each, and \ ounce borax; dissolve
the whole in 1 quart hot water, and when
sufficiently cool to bear the hand, add rye
meal to make it like thick paste, and spread
the mixture on the flesh side of the pelt.
Fold the pelt lengthwise, and let it remain
2 weeks in an airy and shady place ; then re-
move the paste from the surface, wash, and
dry. "When nearly dry, scrape the flesh side
with a crescent-shaped knife. The softness of
the pelt depends much on the amount of
working it receives.
647. To Prepare Sheep Skins for
Mats. Make a strong lather with hot water,
and let it stand till cold ; wash the fresh skin
in it, carefully squeezing out all the dirt trom
the wool ; wash it in cold water till all the
soap is taken out. Dissolve a pound each
TANNING.
79
salt, and alum in 2 gallons hot water, and put
the skin into a tub sufficient to cover it; let
it soak for 12 hours, and hang it over a pole
to drain. "When well drained, stretch it care-
fully on a board to dry, and stretch several
times while drying. Before it is quite dry,
sprinkle on the flesh side 1 ounce each of
finely pulverized alum and saltpetre, rubbing
it iu well. Try if the wool be firm on the
skin ; if not, let it remain a day or two, then
rub again with alum ; fold the flesh sides to-
gether and hang in the shade for 2 or 3 days,
turning them over each day till quite dry.
Scrape the flesh side with a blunt knife, and
rub it with pumice or rotten stone. Yery
beautiful mittens can be made of lamb skins
prepared in this way.
648. To Tan Muskrat Skins with
the Fur On. First wash the hide in warm
water, and remove all fatty and fleshy matter.
Then soak it in a liquor prepared as follows :
To 10 gallons cold soft water add 8 quarts
wheat bran, $ pint old soap, 1 ounce borax ;
by adding 2 ounces sulphuric acid the soaking
may be done in one-half the time. If the hides
have not been salted, add 1 pint salt. Green
hides should not be soaked more than 8 or 10
hours. Dry ones should soak till very soft.
For tan liquor, to 10 gallons warm soft water
add i bushel bran ; stir well and let stand in
a warm room till it ferments. Then add
slowly 2^- pounds sulphuric acid ; stir all the
while. Muskrat hides should remain in about
4 hours ; then take out and rub with a flesh-
ing knife — (an old chopping knife with the
edge taken off will do.) Then work it over a
beam until entirely dry.
649. To Cure Rabbit Skins. Lay
the skin on a smooth board, the fur side un-
dermost, and fasten it down with tinned
tacks. Wash it over first with a solution of
salt ; then dissolve 2-J- ounces alum in 1 pint
of warm water, and with a sponge dipped in
this_solution, moisten the surface all over; re-
peat this every now and then for three days ;
when the skin is quite dry, take out the tacks,
and rolling it loosely the long way, the hair
inside, draw it quickly backwards and for-
wards through a large smooth ring, until it is
quite soft, then roll it in the contrary way of
the skin, and repeat the operation. Skins
prepared thus are useful for many domestic
purposes.
650. To Clean Furs. Furs may be
cleaned as follows : — Strip the fur articles of
their stuffing and binding, and lay them as
much as possible in a flat position. They must
then be subjected to a very brisk brushing,
with a stiff clothes brush; after this, any
moth-eaten parts must be cut out, and be
neatly replaced by new bits of fur to match.
651. To Clean Dark Furs. Sable,
chinchilla, squirrel, fitch, &c., should be
treated as follows : Warm a quantity of
new bran in a pan, taking care that it does
not burn, to prevent which it must be actively
stirred. When well warmed, rub it thorough-
ly into the fur with the hand. Kepeat this
two or three times ; then shake the fur, and
give it another sharp brushing until free from
dust.
652. To Clean Light Furs. White
furs, ermine, <fcc., may be cleaned as follows:
Lay the fur on a table, and rub it well with
bran made moist with warm water ; rub until
quite dry, and afterwards with dry bran.
The wet bran should be put on with flannelj
and the dry with a piece of book-muslin'.
The light furs, in addition to the above,
should be well rubbed with magnesia, or a
piece of book-muslin, after the bran process.
Or dry flour may be used instead of wet bran.
Ermine takes longer than Minevar to clean.
They should be rubbed against the way of
the fur.
653. To Improve Furs by Stretch-
ing. Furs are usually much improved by
stretching, which may be managed as follows:
To 1 pint" of soft water add 3 ounces salt ; dis-
solve ; with this solution sponge the inside of
the skin (taking care not to wet the fur) un-
til it becomes thoroughly saturated ; then lay
it carefully on a board with the fur side down-
wards, in its natural disposition ; then stretch
as much as it will bear, and to the required
shape, and fasten with small tacks. The dry-
ing may be quickened by placing the skin a
little distance from the fire or stove.
654. To Preserve Furs and Woolen
Clothing from Moth. Moths deposit their
eggs in the early spring. This, therefore, js
the time to put away furs and woolens for
the summer. It is not the moth, but the
maggot of the moth that does the mischief
with furs and woolens. To effectually pre-
serve them from the ravages of these insects,
thoroughly beat the furs with a thin rattan,
and air them for several hours, then carefully
comb them with a clean comb, wrap them up
in newspapers, perfectly tight, and put them
away in a thoroughly tight chest lined with
tin, or cedar wood. Take them out and ex-
amine them in the sun at least once a month,
thoroughly beating them. This, indeed, is
the secret of the fur-dealers in preserving
their stock. Camphor, which is so much used
to preserve furs, impairs their beauty by turn-
ing them light. The printing ink on the
newspapers is just as effectual as camphor,
being very distasteful to the moth. The
above method may also be adopted to pre-
serve feathers, and all kinds of woolen cloth-
ing, omitting, of course, the combing; cam-
phor may be sprinkled among the woolens.
655. To Clean Ostrich Feathers.
Cut some white curd soap in small pieces,
pour boiling water on them, and add a little
pearlash. When the soap is quite dissolved,
and the mixture cool enough for the hand to
bear, plunge the feathers into it, draw the
feathers through the hand till the dirt appears
squeezed out of them, pass them through a
clean lather with some blue in it, then rinse
in cold water with blue to give them a good
color. Beat them against the hand to shake
off the water, and dry by shaking them near
a fire. When perfectly dry, curl each fibre
separately with a blunt knife or ivory paper-
folder.
656. To Clean Grebe. Carefully take
out the lining, and wash it in the same way
as directed for the ostrich feathers. They
must not be shaken until quite dry, and any
rent in the skin must be repaired before mak-
ing up again.
657. To Clean Swansdown. White
swansdown may be washed in soap and
water ; after washing, shake it out, and when
8O
IMITATION LIQUORS.
the down is somewhat raised, shake it before
a clear fire to dry.
658. To Curl Feathers. Heat them
slightly before the fire, then stroke them with
the back of a knife, and they will curl.
659. To Cleanse Feathers from An-
imal Oil. Mix well with 1 gallon clear water,
1 pound quicklime ; and, when the lime is pre-
cipitated in fine powder, pour off the clear
lime-water for use. Put the feathers to be
cleaned in a tub, and add to them a sufficient
quantity of the clear lime-water to cover them
about 3 inches. The feathers, when thor-
oughly moistened, will sink down, and should
remain in the lime-water for 3 or 4 days ; after
which, the foul liquor should be separated.
660. To Deodorize Skunk Skins,
or articles of clothing scented, hold them
over a fire of red cedar boughs, and sprinkle
with chloride of lime ; or, wrap them in green
hemlock boughs, when they are to be had,
and in 24 hours they will be deodorized.
661. To Stiffen Bristles. These are
usually stiffened by immersing for a short
time in cold alum water.
662. To Dye Bristles. Bristles are
dyed by steeping them for a short time in
any of the common dyes used for cotton or
wool.
Imitation Liquors. The u-
quors generally met with for sale and
consumption are, it is well known, rarely
genuine ; and even if genuine, are often adul-
terated with water and various deleterious
compounds. The imitations of liquor inno-
cently imbibed by the unsuspecting as whole-
some stimulants, contain, too freqently, combi-
nations that are most hurtful, if not actually
poisonous. Receipts are here given for ma-
king imitation liquors, which are at least
as wholesome as genuine spirits, and contain
no ingredient that can hurt the system more
than alcohol itself does. They are the re-
ceipts furnished by a practical French chemist,
who has made this business a specialty for
some thirty years.
664. Prune Flavoring for Liquors.
Mash 25 pounds prunes, infuse for 15 days
with 6 gallons proof spirit, stirring it every
day ; press and filter.
665. Raisin Flavoring for Liquors.
Subject 25 pounds mashed raisins to the same
process as the prunes in the last receipt.
666. St. John's Bread Flavoring for
Liquors. Cut 50 pounds St. John's bread
into small pieces. Infuse for 15 days with 12
gallons proof spirits, stirring every day;
filter.
667. Orange Peel Flavoring for Li-
quors. Steep 1 pound orange peel in 1 gal-
lon 95 per cent, alcohol for 15 days ; filter.
668. Vanilla Flavoring for Liquors.
Slice 1 drachm vanilla in small pieces ; infuse
for 20 days in 1 pint 95 per cent, alcohol;
filter.
669. Orris Boot Flavoring for Li-
quors. Infuse 2 ounces powdered orris root
for 20 days, in 1 quart 95 percent, alcohol, and
filter.
670. Sassafras Flavoring for Liquors.
Granulate ^ pound sassafras bark, and infuse
it in J gallon 95 per cent, alcohol for 20 days ;
filter.
671. Hickory Nut Flavoring for Li-
quors. Crush 1 bushel hickory nuts, and in-
luse for 1 month in 12 gallons 95 per cent. *
alcohol ; strain and filter.
672. Flavoring Compound for Bran-
dy. Mash 25 pounds raisins, 12 pounds
prunes, 6 pounds figs, and 1 pineapple sliced ;
infuse for 15 days in 20 gallons proof spirits,
stirring every day, and then filter.
673^ Coffee Flavoring for Liquors.
Infuse 1 pound ground roasted coffee in 1 gal-
lon 95 per cent, alcohol. This is used in com-
bination with other flavors for brandy.
674. Peach Flavoring for Whiskey.
Steep for 1 month, 10 gallons dried peaches,
10 gallons oak saw-dust, and 5 pounds black
tea in 40 gallons proof spirits ; strain and
filter.
675. How to Prepare Essence of
Cognac. Take 1 ounce oil cognac — the green
011 is the best ; put it in £ gallon 95 per cent,
spirits. Cork it up tight, shake it frequently
for about 3 days ; then add 2 ounces strong
ammonia. Let it stand 3 days longer ; then
place in a stone jar that will contain about 3
gallons, 1 pound fine black tea, 2 pounds
prunes, having first mashed the prunes and
broken the kernels. Pour on them 1 gallon
spirits 20 above proof. Cover it close, and let
it stand 8 days. Filter the liquor, and mix
with that containing the oil and ammonia.
Bottle it for use. This makes the best flavor-
ing known for manufacturing brandies, or for
flavoring cordials, syrups, etc. The above
proportion should flavor 100 gallons brandy.
676. To Imitate Brandy with Es-
sence of Cognac. Take 1 pint essence of
cognac (see No. 675), 15 gallons pure spirits
(very fine) 20 per cent, above proof, £ pint
plain white syrup. Color with caramel.
677. Simple Test for Alcohol in Oil
of Cognac. Take a half ounce phial or test
tube, and fill it exactly half full of oil of cog-
nac; then fill up the remaining space with
water, and shake it well. The alcohol, if
there be any present, having a much greater
affinity for water than for the oil, will leave
the oil and combine with the water ; denot-
ing, by the decrease in the bulk of the oil. or
the increase in that of the water, the quantity
of alcohol present. Other tests for essential
oils will be found under its heading. (See
Index.)
678. Highly Flavored Domestic
Brandy. To 40 gallons French proof spirits,
add 2 quarts raisin flavoring (sec No. 665), 2
quarts prune flavoring (see No. 664), 2 quarts
St. John's bread flavoring (see No. 666), 1
gallon best sherry wine, 2 drachms oil of
cognac and 20 drops oil of bitter almonds,
both dissolved in a little 95 per cent, alcohol;
1 gallon Jamaica rum (or J ounce Jamaica
rum essence), and 2 pints wine vinegar. Ten
gallons of this mixture, mixed with 30 gallons
French spirits, make .an excellent domestic
brandy, and 1 pound of glycerine gives it age.
679. Imitation Cognac Brandy. To
36 gallons French proof spirits, add 4 gallons
Pellevoisin or Marette cognac, £ gallon best
sherry or Madeira wine, and 20 drops oil of
cognac, dissolved in a little 95 per cent, alco-
hol. Then pour 2 quarts boiling water over 2
IMITATION LIQUORS.
ounces black tea; when cold, filter through
flannel, and add a little maraschino ; mix this
with the other ingredients, and color the whole
to suit, with caramel. (See No. 694.)
Another excellent formula is as follows :
Dissolve 20 drops oil of cognac and 15 drops
oil of bitter almonds in a little 95 per cent,
alcohol; add it to 40 gallons 60 per cent.
French spirit, with 2 pints tincture of raisin,
2 pints tincture of prunes, 3 pints best Jamai-
ca rum, 3 pints.best sherry wine, and £ ounce
acetic ether. Color with caramel.
680. Imitation Brandy. Take 40 gal-
lons French spirit; add to it 1 pint tincture of
raisins (see No. 665), 1 quart prune flavoring
(see No. 664), i gallon best sherry or Madeira
wine, and 1 pint wine vinegar. Then add 1
drachm oil of cognac, 12 drops oil of bitter
almonds, i to ^ drachm tannin powder, each
dissolved separately in 95 per cent, alcohol.
Color to suit with caramel. (See No. 694.)
681. Imitation French Brandy. To
40 gallons French proof spirit, add 1 quart
tincture of orris root (see No. 669), 1 pint
vanilla flavoring (see No. 668), ^ gallon best
sherry or Madeira wine, and 1 pint wine vin-
egar. Dissolve separately, 1 drachm oil of
cognac and 12 drops oil of bitter almonds,
each in a little 95 per cent, alcohol, and add
them to the mixture, coloring the whole to
suit with caramel. (See No. 694.)
682. Imitation Pale Brandy. Infuse
1 drachm star-anise (breaking the star only)
for 8 hours in £ pint 95 per cent, alcohol, and
filter; add this to 40 gallons proof spirits;
then add £ gallon best Jamaica rum, and 1
pint of the best raspberry syrup. Dissolve 1
drachm oil of cognac, and 12 drops oil of bit-
ter almonds, separately, in a little 95 per cent,
alcohol, and mix them with the whole.
683. Imitation Bourbon Whiskey.
Mix together 40 gallons proof spirits, £ gallon
peach flavoring (see No. 674), ^ gallon hicko-
ry nut flavoring (see No. 671), | gallon highly
flavored brandy (see No, 678), 1 pint wine
vinegar, and 1 pint white glycerine. Add to
these 12 drops oil of cognac dissolved in 95
per cent, alcohol, and color with caramel.
(See No. 694.)
Or : 36 gallons proof spirits, 4 gallons high-
ly flavored proof rye whiskey, 1 gallon do-
mestic brandy (see No. 680), together with the
same proportions of vinegar, glycerine, and
oil of cognac, as before.
684. Imitation Bourbon Whiskey.
To 36 gallons proof spirits, add 4 gallons
highly flavored proof Bourbon, 1 gallon N"ew
England rum, £ gallon sweet Catawba wine
(or 1 quart sherry wine), and 1 pound white
glycerine. Color to suit with caramel. (See
No. 694.)
685. Imitation Bourbon Whiskey.
36 gallons proof spirit, 4 gallons highly fla-
vored proof Bourbon, 1 gallon malt whiskey,
1 pint wine vinegar, 1 pint syrup, and 12
drops oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent,
alcohol. Color with caramel. (See No. 694.)
686. Imitation Bourbon Whiskey.
To 40 gallons proof spirit, add 1 gallon hick-
ory flavor (see No. 671), 1 gallon domestic
brandy (see No. 680), 1 pint wine vinegar,
and 1 pound white glycerine, with 12 drops
oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol,
and caramel (see No. 694) sufficient to color.
687. Imitation Copper - Distilled
Bourbon Whiskey. Dissolve 1 drachm
sulphate of copper in | pint water, filter, and
add it to 40 gallons proof spirit, with 1 gal-
lon peach flavor (see No. 674), 1 gallon
brandy flavor (see No. 672), 1 pint wine vine-
gar, 1 pound white glycerine, and 12 drops
oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol.
Color with caramel. (See No. 694.)
688. Imitation Bye Whiskey. To 40
gallons proof spirit, add 2 gallons peach fla-
voring (See No. 674), 1 pint white vinegar,
and 12 drops oil of cognac in 95 per cent,
alcohol. Color with caramel. (See No. 694.)
689. Imitation Sweet Bye Whiskey.
30 gallons proof spirit, 10 gallons proof rye
whiskey, and 1 gallon raisin flavor (see No.
665), colored with sufficient caramel. (See
No. 694).
690. Imitation Irish Whiskey. 36
gallons French spirits 20 above proof, 4 gal-
lons Scotch (Ramsay) whiskey, 3 pints best
sherry wine, 2 pints syrup, and 10 drops sas-
safras flavor. (See No. 670.)
691. Imitation Scotch Whiskey. 36
gallons French spirits 20 above proof. 4 gal-
lons Scotch whiskey, and 1 quart syrup.
692. To Impart a Smoky flavor to
Whiskey. The simplest way to impart this
peculiar flavor to whiskey is by preparing the
barrel. Insert securely a large sheet-iron
funnel into the bung-hole of a dry 40-gallon
barrel ; provide a small open furnace, contain-
ing a charcoal fire ; put 1 pound of birch bark
on the fire, and support the barrel, with its
funnel downwards, over the furnace, so that
the funnel, which should be considerably wider
than the furnace, will receive the smoke from
the bark. When the bark ceases smoking,
remove the funnel and bung the barrel up
tight. After it has stood 24 hours, put the
spirit in the barrel, and keep it there for 36
hours, frequently rolling the barrel, in order
that the spirits may be thoroughly impreg-
nated with the smoke and smoky deposit on
the inside of the barrel. The spirits will then
be found to have acquired the desired flavor.
Creosote, diluted with alcohol, is sometimes
used to impart the smoky flavor to spirits.
693. To Give the Appearance of Age
to Brandy Barrels. Dissolve in 3 gallons
water, 3 pounds sulphuric acid and 1 pound
sulphate of iron. Wash the barrels with it
on the outside.
694. To Make Caramel. Dissolve 7
pounds crushed sugar in 1 pint water ; boil it
in a 5-gallon copper kettle, stirring occasion-
ally until it gets brown ; then reduce the fire
and let the sugar burn until the smoke makes
the eyes water. "When a few drops, let fall
into a tumbler of cold water, sink to the bottom
and harden sufficiently to crack, it is done.
Then pour on it, by degrees, about 2 quarts
warm water, stirring all the time. When well
mixed, filter it hot through a coarse flannel
filter. Some use lime-water to dissolve the
burnt sugar. Care must be taken not to over-
burn it, as a greater quantity is thereby ren-
dered insoluble. The heat should not exceed
430°, nor be under 400° Fahr. The process for
nice experiments is best conducted in a bath
of melted tin, to which a little bismuth has
been added, to reduce its melting point to
about 435° ; a little powdered resin or char-
IMITATION LIQUORS.
coal, or a little oil, being put upon the surface
of the metal, to prevent oxidation.
695. To Plaster Brandy Pipes. First
notch over the bottom of the casks with a
hatchet or adze ; then, for the bottom of a £
pipe mix £ gallon plaster with 1 gallon water,
and pour it on; while the plaster is setting,
tap the cask gently with a mallet, in order
that the plaster may penetrate into every
crevice. When the plaster is fully set, wash
it over with a wet sponge. If you wish to
color the plaster, add a little Venice red.
696. Wax Putty for Leaky Casks,
Bungs, &c. Melt 8 pounds yellow wax and
12 pounds solid turpentine over a slow fire;
add 4 pounds tallow ; and, when thoroughly
mixed, remove the whole to a distance from
the fire and stir in 2 pounds spirits of turpen-
tine, and let it cool.
697. Imitation Schiedam Gin. Dis-
solve 3^ drachms oil of juniper in sufficient
95 per cent, alcohol to make a clear liquid ;
add it to 40 gallons French spirits 10 above
proof, with 8 ounces orange peel flavoring
(see No. 667), 1 quart syrup, and 30 drops oil
of sweet fennel.
698. Imitation Old Tom London Gin.
Dissolve in 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol, 1
drachm oil of coriander, 1 drachm oil of cedar,
•J drachm oil of bitter almonds, ^ drachm oil
of angelica, and £ drachm oil of sweet fennel ;
add it to 40 gallons French spirit 10 above
proof, with 1 pint orange-flower water, 1 quart
syrup, and 1 drachm oil of juniper dissolved in
sufficient 95 per cent, alcohol to be clear.
699. Imitation Santa Cruz Rum. 35
gallons New England rum, 5 gallons Santa
Cruz rum, and 1 drachm vanilla flavoring.
(See No. 668.)
700. Imitation Batavia Arrack. 35
gallons French spirit (rice spirit is preferable),
5 gallons Batavia arrack, ^ ounce balsam of
tolu, and \ ounce tincture of flowers of ben-
zoin.
701. Imitation Batavia Arrack. To
12 gallons pale rum add 2 ounces flowers of
benzoin, 1-J- ounces balsam of tolu, 1 sliced
pineapple. Digest with occasional agitation
for a month; then add | pint raw milk.
Agitate well for 15 minutes, and rack in a
week. A fine imitation.
702. Imitation Jamaica Bum. 20
gallons spirit 10 above proof, 20 gallons New
England rum 10 above proof, \ pound Ja-
maica rum essence, 1 gallon St. John's bread
flavoring (see No. 666), and 1 pound white
glycerine. Color to suit with caramel. (See
.Ac. 694.) Or: — 40 gallons spirit 10 above
proof, 1 pound Jamaica rum essence, 10 drops
oil of cloves, 1 gallon St. John's bread flavor-
ing (see No. 666), and 1 pound white glycerine.
If desired, there may be added 1 ounce gum
kino and i drachm oil of caraway, each dis-
solved in 2 ounces 95 per cent, alcohol.
703. To Make Spirit Finings. Pul-
verize 1 pound ordinary crystals of alum,
divide into 12 equal portions, and put up in
blue papers marked No 1. Next take 6 ounces
carbonate (the ordinary sesquicarbonate) of
soda, divide it into 12 parts and put them up
in white papers marked No. 2. In place of
the 6 ounces carbonate of soda, 4 ounces dry
salt of tartar may be substituted, but the
white papers containing this latter substance
must be kept in a dry, well corked bottle or
jar.
704. To Clarify Gin or Cordials. To
clarify from 30 to 3d gallons gin, dissolve the
contents of one of the blue papers, as prepared
in No 703. in about a pint of hot water, and
stir it into the liquor thoroughly. Then dis-
solve the contents of one of the white papers
in about -J- pint hot water, and stir well into
the liquor ; bung the cask close, and let the
whole remain till the next day.
705. To Blanch Gin or* other White
Liquor. By using double the quantity of
finings, that is, 2 of each of the powders, as
laid down in the foregoing receipt, the liquor
will be blanched as well as clarified. It is
well to recollect, however, that the more fin-
ings are employed, the greater the risk of in-
juring the liquor, which may have a tendency
to become flat when ''on draught."
706. Finings for Gin. To 100 gallons
gin, take 4 ounces roche alum, and put it into
1 pint of pure water ; boil it until it is dis-
solved, then gradually add 4 ounces salts of
tartar ; when nearly cold put it into the gin,
and stir it well with a staff for 10 minutes.
The liquor must not be covered until it is
fine; when this is accomplished, cover it up
tight to prevent it from losing its strength.
707. To Remove the Blackness from
Gin. Some gin has a particular blackness ;
to remove which, take 1 ounce pulverized
chalk and 2 or 3 ounces isinglass, dissolved ;
put this into the gin and it will become trans-
parent. The above is enough for 50 gallons.
The blackness which gin sometimes contracts
by coming in contact with iron, may also be
carried down by putting a solution of 2 ounces
isinglass and 1 quart skimmed milk into the
spirit. "When the color is very black, which
will happen by merely, an iron nail having
fallen into the liquor, there is no remedy but
to have the liquor distilled over again.
708. To Clarify Stained Gin. When
gin has once become much stained, the only
remedy is to re-distill it; when it is only
slightly stained the addition of a few pounds
acetic acid to a pipe or butt, 1 or 2 spoonfuls
to a gallon, or a few drops to a decanterful,
will usually decolor it.
709. Brandy Filter. When necessary
to filter an imitation brandy, an excellent
utensil may be used for that purpose which
has already been described. (See No. 17, fig.
5.) It will, however, be necessary to substi-
tute cotton wadding in place of the charcoal.
710. To Make Rum Punch. Dissolve
in 1 piut*95 per cent, alcohol, 3 drachms oil of
lemon, and •£ drachm oil of cloves ; infuse 3
ounces ground allspice for 10 days in 1 quart
95 per cent, alcohol, and filter it. Mix these
with 18 gallons spirit 30 above proof, 2 gal-
lons Jamaica rum, and 1 pound Jamaica rum
essence (or 20 gallons New England rum 30
over proof and £ pound Jamaica rum essence).
Next add 2£ pounds tartaric acid dissolved in
2| gallons water, and 18 gallons syrup made
of 108 pounds white' sugar. Color with cara-
mel. (See No. 694.)
711. To Make Wine Punch. Dis-
solve 2i drachms oil of lemons and £ drachm
oil of cloves in 95 per cent, alcohol; make an
infusion of 3 ounces ground allspice, as in last
receipt; add these to 10 gallons proof spirit,
CHAMPAGNE.
S3
10 gallons Marsala or Catalonia wine, 10 gal-
lons syrup made of 35 pounds white sugar,
and ^ pound tartaric acid. If not red enough,
add a little cherry juice. Filter.
712. 'To Make Wine Punch. To 10
gallons proof spirit, add 10 gallons Marsala
or Catalonia wine. Take 10 gallons syrup
made of 35 pounds sugar ; peel the rind, thinly,
of 1.20 lemons ; bring the syrup to a boil, anJ
simmer the lemon rinds in it for •£ hour or
more, then strain it -through a fine flannel.
Mix all the above with the juice of the lemons.
Instead of boiling the lemon peel in the syrup,
it may be infused for 5 or G days in 95 per
cent, alcohol. The color can be deepened
with cherry juice. Brandy, rum, whiskey and
arrack punch may be made as above, substi-
tuting the liquor for the wine and spirits.
The process of ma-
V- ^king America:! and imitation French
champagne is one requiring great care, espe-
cially in producing a not only clear, but
bright wine. Full directions are given below
for making the necessary syrup, mixing the
ingredients, fining, filtering and gassing ; in-
cluding a number of receipts for different
kinds of champagne. A careful attention to
tho instructions laid down will produce wines
which will compare favorably with the best
gsnuine importations.
714. To Make a Filter for Filtering
Wines. A filter for wines is usually made
of fait, shaped like a cone or sugar loaf; those
without any seam are the best. A lining of
paper pulp is prepared in the following man-
ner : Tear from 2 to 4 sheets filtering paper
into small pieces and put it into a pail ; pour
over it a little boiling water, sufficient, by
thorough beating, to form a fine smooth
paste; then add sufficient water to fill the
filter. Pour this quickly into the filter, and,
5 minutes after the water has drained through,
fill up with the wine to be filtered, taking
care to keep tli3 filter always full.
715. To Make Syrup for Champagne
Wine. To 25 pounds white sugar, add 2
gallon ; water and the whites of 4 eggs ; stir
until the sugar is dissolved. Let the whole
simmer to the candy degree; then strain it
thr'mcch a bag made of fine flannel.
716. To Prepare Isinglass for Fin-
ing Wines. Cut up some isinglass (it must
bo of the very best quality), and put it in a jar,
with just enough wine or water to cover it;
add daily as much of the wine or water as has
beon absorbed by the isinglass. In 6 or 8
days it should be completely dissolved, form-
ing a thick fluid mass. Squeeze it through a
linen cloth and put it into a bottle, adding 4
or 5 per cent, of 95 per cent, alcohol to make
it keep. For 40 gallons wine to be fined,
take 1 wine-glassful of dissolved isinglass, add
a little wine and a pinch of salt, and beat to a
froth with a whisk, adding by degrees suffi-
cient wine to make the mixture up to £ gal-
lon. When foaming, pour it slowly into the
wine, stirring till all the fining is incorporated
with the wine. Isinglass thus prepared and
used will precipitate completely ; and, after a
few days, the wine will be bright. Too much
care cannot be taken in the preparation of
fining, as even the finest isinglass contains
fibrous matter which dissolves with difficulty ;
this is very apt to remain suspended in the
wine, and is not visible until developed, after
bottling, by the gas with which the wine is
afterwards charged.
717. To Prepare Champagne Wine
for Charging. Put the wine used to make
the champagne into a cask, add the brandy
spirit, the aroma or flavoring, and the syrup,
and stir for 10 minutes. Every day for 4 days
draw off 15 or 20 gallons of the mixture and
pour it in again; let it rest 4 days more, then
add the fining, stir for 10 minutes, and bung
up the cask. In 3 or 4 days, if bright, draw
off slowly, so as not to disturb the lees.
Filter (sec No. 714), and it is ready for the
fountain of the gassing apparatus.
718. To Charge Champagne with
Gas. Matthews' apparatus is the one usually
adopted in the United States for generating
the gas and charging champagne wine. The
fountains, tubes, and valves are silver-lined,
and the machines are adapted for pint and
quart bottles. The following is a proper
charge for a No. 2 apparatus with 2 fountains :
Charge the generator with 9 gallons water, 6
gallons ground marble, and 3 gallons sulphuric
acid ; put 2 gallons water in the gas washer,
and 20 gallons wine in each of the fountains.
For a warm climate, a pressure of 70 pounds
to tho square inch is sufficient. When the
wine is made in winter for immediate sale,
the pressure may be increased to 80 pounds.
Genuine champagne has an average pressure
of 50 pounds.
719. Catawba Champagne. Take 40
gallons Catawba Avine; -J- gallon old cognac
brandy ; and 4 gallons syrup made of 30
pounds sugar and 2 gallons water according
to No. 715 ; — or, 38 gallons Catawba wine ; 2
gallons Angelica wine, and 4 gallons syrup as
above. A very little tincture vanilla added
to either of these makes a fine bouquet.
720. California Champagne. 40 gal-
lons California wine ; 1 quart raspberry syrup
(see No. 1372); 4 gallons syrup made of 25
pounds sugar and 2 gallons water (see No.
715); and 4 gallons water. Or: 20 gallons
California wine ; 20 gallons Sauterne or white
Bordeaux wine ; •£ gallon old cognac brandy ;
with 4 gallons syrup as before. Add to these
10 per cent, of water.
721. Scuppernong Champagne. 40
gallons Scuppernong wine ; £ gallon old cog-
nac brandy ; and 3 gallons syrup made of 20
pounds sugar (see No. 715) and 2 gallons
water.
722. Imitation French Champagne.
40 gallons white Bordeaux wine; 1 gallon
muscat wine; $ gallon old cognac brandy;
and 4 gallons syrup made of 25 pounds sugar
and 2 gallons water. (See No. 715). In this
receipt a little tincture of vanilla, or a small
jottle of bouquet venatique, may be used in-
stead of the muscat wine. They may bo
omitted altogether if aroma is not desired.
723. Cheap Champagne. 13 gallons
alifornia wine ; 13 gallons white Bordeaux
wine ; 13 gallons water ; 1 gallon 95 percent.
French spirit; 1 quart raspberry syrup (see
No. 1372) ; and 4 gallons symp made of 25
rounds sugar and 2 gallons water. (See No.
715.) Or : 20 gallons Catawba wine; 20 gal-
HOME-MADE WINES.
Ions water ; 2 gallons Angelica wine ; 2 gallons
95 per cent. French spirit, and 4 gallons
syrup as before.
724. Cheap Champagne. 20 gallons
white Bordeaux wine ; 20 gallons German or
Hungarian wine ; 20 gallons water ; 2 gallons
95 per cent. French spirit; and 6 gallons
syrup made of 35 pounds sugar and 3 gallons
water. (See No. 715.)
725. The Use of Glycerine in Wine.
Glycerine differs from sugar in not fermenting
or taking any active part in the process of
fermentation. It can, therefore, be made use
of alter fermentation, to impart any required
degree of sweetness to wine, without the risk
of further fermentation, as is the case with
sugar when used for this purpose ; it is said
that it can be added with perfect safety to
even a young or new wine, as soon as it has
become clear. It is absolutely necessary that
the glycerine should be chemically pure ; care
is consequently to be taken in purchasing it,
as there are few articles in the market which
are liable to contain so many impurities. (See
No. 1151.) The proportion of glycerine
should be from 1 to 3 gallons for 100 gallons
of wine, according to the quality of the latter.
If the wine is perfectly clear before adding
the glycerine it will be ready for bottling at
once. It is best to mix the glycerine first
with an equal quantity of the wine, and then
add the mixture to the remainder of the
wine.
726. Electricity as an Agent for im-
proving Whiskey and Wines. From ex-
periments made on a large scale, it has been
found that electricity in any form, either as a
regular current or a succession of discharges,
renders wine or whiskey mellow and mature.
It is supposed that the bitartrate of potassa is
decomposed, setting free potash and tartaric
acid : the former tending to neutralize the
acids of the wine ; and the tartaric acid, react-
ing upon the fatty matters present, favors the
formation of the ethers which constitute the
bouquet of the wine. It is probable, also,
that a small quantity of the water is decom-
posed, setting free oxygen, which forms, with
some of the constituents of the wine, new
compounds peculiar to old wines. (See No.
6295.)
Home-Made Wines. The
various processes in domestic wine-
making resemble those employed for foreign
wine, and depend upon the same principles.
The fruit should be preferably gathered in fine
weather, and not till it has arrived at a proper
state of maturity, as evinced by its flavor
when tasted ; for if it be employed while un-
ripe, the wine will be harsh, disagreeable,
and unwholesome, and a larger quantity of
sugar and spirit will be required to render it
palatable. The common practice of employ-
ing unripe gooseberries for the manufacture of
wine arises from a total ignorance of the
scientific principles of wine-making. On the
other hand, if fruit be employed too ripe, the
wine is apt to be inferior, and deficient in the
flavor of the fruit. The fruit being gathered,
it next undergoes the operation of picking,
for the purpose of removing the stalks and
unripe or damaged portion. It is next placed
in a tub, and well bruised. Eaisins are
commonly permitted to soak about 24 hours
previously to bruising them, or they may be
advantageously bruised or minced in the dry
state. The bruised fruit is then put into a
vat or vessel with a guard or strainer placed
over the tap-hole, to keep back the husks and '
seeds of the fruit when the must or juice is j
drawn off. The water is now added, and the
whole macerated for 30 or 40 hours, more or
less; during which time it is frequently stirred
up with a suitable wooden stirrer. The liquid
portion is next drawn off, and the residua-
ry pulp is placed in hair bags and undergoes
the operation of pressing, to expel the fluid
it contains. The sugar, tartar, &c. (in very fine
powder, or in solution), are now added to the
mixed liquor, and the whole is well stirred.
The temperature being suitable (generally
from 75° to 85° Fahr.), the vinous fermenta-
tion soon commences, when the liquor is fre-
quently skimmed (if necessary) and well
stirred up, and, after 3 or 4 days of this treat-
ment, it is run into casks, which should be
quite filled, and left open at the bung-hole.
In about a week the flavoring ingredients, in
the state of coarse powder, are commonly
added, and well stirred in, and in about
another week, depending upon the state of
the fermentation and the attenuation of the
must, the brandy or spirit is added, and the
cask filled up, and bunged down close. In 4
or 5 weeks more the cask is again filled up,
and, after some weeks — the longer the better —
it is " pegged " or " spiled," to ascertain if it
be fine or transparent ; if so, it undergoes the
operation of racking ; but if, on the contrary,
it still continues muddy, it must previously
pass through the process of fining. Its future
treatment is similar to that of foreign wine.
The must of many of the strong-flavored
fruits, as black currants, for instance, is im-
proved by being boiled before being made into
wine ; but the flavor and bouquet of the more
delicate fruits are diminished, if not destroyed,
by boiling.
728. General Receipt for the Prep-
aration of Home-Made Wine from Ripe
Saccharine Fruits. I. Ripe fruit, 4 pounds ;
clear soft water, 1 gallon ; sugar, 3 pounds ;
cream of tartar, dissolved in boiling water, lj
ounces ; brandy, 2 to 3 per cent. Flavoring
as required. Makes a" good family wine.
II. As the last, using 1 pound more each of
fruit and sugar. A superior wine.
III. As the first, adding 2 pounds each fruit
and sugar. Yery strong. Is good without
brandy, but better with it. 1| pounds of
raisins may be substituted for each pound of
sugar above. In the above way may be made
the following wines : — gooseberry wine, cur-
rant wine (red, white or black) ; mixed fruit
wine (currants and gooseberries; or black,
red, and white currants, ripe black-heart cher-
ries, and raspberries, equal parts). This is a
good family wine. Cherry wine ; Colepress's
wine, (from apples and mulberries, equal
parts) ; elder wine ; strawberry wine ; rasp-
berry wine ; mulberry wine (when flavored
makes port) ; whortleberry (sometimes ca!>d
huckleberry) wine; makes a good factious
port ; blackberry wine ; morella wine ; npricot
wine; apple wine- grape wine, <fcc.
HOME-MADE WINES.
85
729. General Receipt for Making
Wine from Dry Saccharine Fruit
I. Dry fruit, 4£ pounds; soft water, 1 ga)
Ion; cream of tartar (dissolved), 1 pound
brandy, 1£ to 2 per cent., weak.
II. As the last, but using 5£ pounds driei
fruit. A superior family wine.
III. As the last, *t\ pounds fruit, and bran
dy 3 per cent. A strong wine. Should th
dried fruit employed be at all deficient in
saccharine matter, 1 to 3 pounds may b
omitted, and half that quantity of sugar, o
two thirds of raisins, added. In the abov
manner may be made raisin wine, fig wine, <fec
730. Imitation Champagne. Stonec
raitins, 7 pounds ; loaf sugar, 21 pounds ; water
9 gallons ; crystallized tartaric acid, 1 ounce
honey, \ pound ; ferment with sweet yeast '.
pound or less ; skim frequently, and when th
fermentation is nearly over, add coarse-pow
dered orris root, 1 drachm, and eau de fleun
d'orange, 3 ounces ; lemon juice, J pint. Rack
it, bung close, and in 3 months fine it down
with isinglass, -J- ounce; in 1 month more, i
not sparkling, again fine it down, and in 2
weeks bottle it, observing to put a piece o:
double-refined sugar, the size of a pea, into
each bottle. Tho bottles should be wired, anc
the corks covered with tin foil.
731. To Make Blackberry Wine. To
make 10 gallons of this cheap and excellent
wine, press the juice out of sufficient fresh
ripe blackberries to make 4£ gallons ; wash
tho pomace in 4J- gallons soft spring water,
and thoroughly dissolve in it 6 pounds white
sugar to each gallon of water (brown sugai
will do for an inferior wine) ; strain the juice
into this syrup, and mix them. Fill a cask
with it perfectly full, and lay a cloth loosely
over the bung-hole, placing the cask where it
will be perfectly undisturbed. In two or
three days fermentation will commence, and
the impurities run over at the bung. Look at
it every day, and if it does not run over, with
some of the mixture which you have reserved
in another vessel fill it up to the bung. In
about three weeks, fermentation will have
ceased, and the wine be still ; fill it again,
drive in the bung tight, nail a tin over it, and
let it remain undisturbed until the following
March. Then draw it off, without shaking
the cask, put it into bottles, cork tightly and
seal over. Some persons add spirit to the
wine, but instead of doing good, it is only an
injury. The more carefully the juice is
strained, the better the quality of the sugar,
and the more scrupulously clean the utensils
and casks, the purer and better will be the
wine.
732. Cider Wine. Let the new cider
from sour apples (ripe, sound fruit preferred),
ferment from 1 to 3 weeks, as the weather is
warm or cool. "WTien it has attained to a
lively fermentation, add to each gallon, accord-
ing to its acidity, from i to 2 pounds white
crushed sugar, and let the whole ferment until
it possesses precisely the taste which it is
desired should be permanent. In this condi-
tion pour out a quart of the cider and add for
each gallon J ounce of sulphite (not sulphate)
of lime. Stir the powder and cider until inti-
mately mixed, and return the emulsion to the
fermenting liquid. Agitate briskly and thor-
oughly for a tew moments, and then let the
cider
settle. Fermentation will cease at
once. When, after a few days, the cider has
become clear, draw off carefully, to avoid the
sediment, and bottle. If loosely corked for a
short time, it will become a sparkling cider
wine, and may be kept indefinitely long.
733. Honey or Mead Wine. Honey,
20 pounds; cider, 12 gallons; ferment, then
add rum, ^ gallon; brandy, | gallon; red or
white tartar (dissolved), 6 ounces; bitter
almonds and cloves, of each J ounce. The
process of fermenting, clearing and bottling,
is similar to the last receipt.
734. Specimen Process to Make Un-
ripe Grape, Currant, Gooseberry and
Rhubarb Wine, according to the process
of Dr. McCulloch. Gather the fruit when it
is nearly full grown, but before it shows the
least sign of ripening. Any kind will do, but
it is advisable to avoid choosing those which,
when ripe, would be highly flavored. All un-
sound and bruised fruit should be rejected,
and the stalks and remains of blossom re-
moved by picking or rubbing. The following
receipt is one of the best on the subject : 40
pounds fruit are to be bruised in small quan-
tities, in a tub which will hold 15 or 20 gal-
lons, sufficient pressure only being used to
burst the berries, without breaking the seeds
or much compressing the skins. 4 gallons
water are then to be poured on the fruit,
which is to be carefully stirred, and squeezed
with the hands until the whole of the juice
and pulp are separated, from the solid matter.
It is then to rest for a few hours, when it must
be pressed and strained through a coarse can-
vas bag with considerable force. 1 gallon
water may afterwards be passed through the
residue, to remove any soluble matter that
may be left, and then added to the juice. 30
pounds loaf sugar are now to be dissolved in
Jie juice, and the total quantity of liquid
made up with water to 10£ gallons. The
iquor is now to be put into a tub, over which
spread a blanket, covered by a board, and
)lace in a temperature of from 55° to 60°
Pahr. for from 24 to 48 hours, according to the
signs which it may show of fermentation,
when it is to be put into a cask to ferment.
The cask must be of such size that the liquor
will nearly reach to the bung-hole, so that tho
scum may run out as it rises. As the fermen^
;ation goes on the liquor will decrease, and
,he cask must be kept filled up nearly to tho
jung-hole with a portion of the "must" which
las been reserved for that purpose. When the
"ermentation has become a little weaker,
which may be known by the hissing noise de-
reasing, the bung is to be driven in, and a
wooden peg, called a spile, made of tough
wood, put into a hole bored in the top of the
jarrel After a few days this peg is to be
oosened to let out any carbonic acid gas
which has been generated. This must bo
one from time to time, and when there is no
urther sign of gas generating to the danger
f the barrel, the spile may be made tight.
The wine should be kept during tho winter in
cool cellar, and, if fine, may be bottled on
clear cold day at the end of February or tho
eginning of March, without further trouble.
But to ensure its fineness it is preferable to
raw it off at the end of December into a
resh cask, so as to clear it from the lees. At
86
HOME-MADE WINES.
this time, also, if it is found to be too sweet
for the maker's taste, he should stir up the lees
so as to renew the fermentation, at the same
time raising the temperature. When it is
transferred to the fresh cask, it should be
fined with isinglass. Sometimes it is desira-
ble to rack it off a second time into a fresh
cask, again fining it. All these removals
should be made in clear, dry, and if possible,
cold weather. It must be bottled in March.
This wine will usually be brisk, but circum-
1 stances will occasionally cause it to be sweet
and still, and sometimes dry. If sweet, it
may be re-made the following season, by add-
ing'to it juice from fresh fruit, according to
the degree of sweetness, and fermenting and
treating it as before. But if it be dry, brisk-
ness can never be restored, and it must be
treated as a dry wine, by drawing it off' into a
cask previously fumigated with sulphur (see
No. 766), and fining and bottling it in the
usual manner. Such dry wines sometimes
taste disagreeably in the' first and second
year, but improve much with age. If the
whole marc or husks, etc., is allowed to re-
main in the juice during the first fermentation,
the process will be more rapid, and the wine
stronger and less sweet; but it will have more
flavor. If the wine is desired to be very sweet
as well as brisk, 40 pounds of sugar may be
used ; less sweet and less strong, 25 pounds ;
it will be brisk, but not so strong, and ought
to be used within a year.
735. Ripe Gooseberry "Wine. Put
the ripe and well picked red gooseberries
into a tub or pan, bruise the fruit well, and
leave it uncovered for 24 hours. Squeeze the
juice from the pulp through a hair or canvas
bag. Put the residue of each squeezing into
a vessel; pour upon it ^ gallon of boiling wa-
ter for each gallon of fruit used, and stir well
for a quarter of an hour. Let it stand for 12
hours, squeeze the pulp through the bag, and
add the liquor to the juice of the fruit ob-
tained. Add 2£ pounds sugar to each gallon
of the liquor, aud stir it well. Let it stand to
ferment. "When it has done fermenting, draw
it off and add f pint brandy to each gallon.
Let it stand to settle for 4 or 5 weeks, then
draw it off carefully into a cask that will just
hold it; keep it in a cool cellar for twelve
months or more, when it may be bottled.
Choose a clear, dry, cold day. It ought to be
a splendid wine in 2 years.
736. Ginger Wine. Boil 20 pounds
sugar in 7 gallons water for half an hour,
skimming it well; then put 9 ounces bruised
ginger in a portion cf the liquor, and mix all
together. When nearly cold, put 9 pounds
raisins, chopped very small, into a nine-gallon
cask, add 4 lemons sliced, after taking out the
seeds, and pour the liquor over all, yith f
pint yeast. Leave the cask open for 3 weeks,
keeping it filled np with some cf the reserved
liquor, and bottle it in from G to 9 months.
737. Ginger Wine. Another Pro-
cess. Boil 25 pounds raw sugar in 7 gallons
water for half an hour, skimming it well; then,
if the syrup is quite clear from scum, pour
it boiling upon 8 ounces bruised ginger and 16
lemons "sliced ; when the whole has cooled
down to about 75°, squeeze out the lemons
and ginger through a sieve, and add the yeast.
Let it work for about 3 days, and then draw
it off into a cask. Put half of the lemon and
ginger residue in with it. Some first pare the
lemons, and having rubbed the rinds with
loaf sugar, add the latter when it is done
working. Bottle in 3 months.
738. To Make Aromatic Ginger
Wine. Reduce the following to coarse pow-
der: 5 pounds Jamaica ginger root, 6 to 8
ounces cloves, 1 pound allspice, $ pound cinna-
mon, and | pound mace. Infuse these for 10
days in 10 gallons 95 per cent, spirit, stirring
every day, and then filter. Then dissolve £0
pounds white sugar in 85 gallons water ; mix
the whole together, and color with cherry
juice ; then filter.
739. To Make Ten Gallons of Ginger
Wine. Boil f pound best white Jamaica gin-
ger, bruised, in about 8 gallons water; add
the whites of G eggs to J ounce isinglass, 15
pounds loaf sugar, and the rinds of G lemons;
boil the compound f of an hour, and skim it
clean ; when nearly cold put it into a vessel
that will admit of 'its being drawn off; set it
to work with yeast, and in a few days after-
wards draw it off into a cask ; then add the
juice of the G lemons, and 2 quarts spirits ; in
a week or ten days bung the cask closely, and
when thoroughly fine, bottle the wine off. It
will be fit to drink in 4 months.
740. Simple Receipt for Making
Grape Wine. Put 20 pounds of ripe, fresh-
picked, and well selected grapes into a stone
jar, and pour on them G quarts boiling water ;
when the water has cooled enough, squeeze
the grapes well with the hand ; cover the jar
with a cloth, and let it stand for 3 days ; then
press out the juice, and add 10 pounds crushed
sugar. After it has stood for a week, scum,
strain, and bottle it, corking loosely. "When
the fermentation is complete, strain it again
and bottle it, corking tightly. Lay the bot-
tles on their side in a cool place.
741. Fine Grape Wine. In order to
make good .wine it is necessary to have a
good cellar, clean casks, press, etc. First of
all, have your grapes well ripened; gather
them in dry weather, and pick out carefully
all the unripe berries, and all the dried and
damaged ones ; then mash them ; or, if you
have a proper mill for the purpose, grind
them. Bo careful not to set the mill so close
as to maph the seed, for they will give a bad
taste to the wine. If you wish to havo wine
of a rose color, let the grapes remain in a
large tub a few hours before pressing. The
longer time you leave the grapes before press-
ing, after they are mashed, the more color the
wine will have. For pressing the grapes, any
press will answer, provided it is kept clean
and sweet. After you have collected the
must in a clean tub from the press, transfer
it into a cask in the cellar. Fill the cask
within 10 inches cf the bung; then place cno
end of a syphon, made for that purpose, in
the bung, and fix it air-tight ; the other end
must be submerged fully 4 inches in a bucket
of cold water. The gas thus passes off from
the caek, but the air is prevented frcm coming
in contact with the wine, which would destroy
that fine grape flavor which makes Catawba
wine so celebrated. When properly made,
the must will undergo fermentation. When
it has fermented, which will be in 15 days,
fill the cask with the same kind of wine and
HOME-MADE WINES.
87
bung it loosely for 1 week ; then make it
tight. Nothing more is needed till it is clear,
which, if all is right, will be in the January
or February following. Then, if perfectly
clear, rack it off into another clean cask, and
bung it up tightly until wanted. If the wine
remains in the cask till about November,
it will improve by racking it again. Be sure
to have sweet, clean casks. Do not burn too
much brimstone in the cask, (see No. 733) ;
much wine is injured by excessive use of
brimstone- -a mistake generally made by new
beginners. Different qualities of wine can be
made with tho same grape by separating the
different runs of tho same pressing. The first
run is tho finest to make use of the first
season; but it will not keep long without
losing its fine qualities. To make good sound
wine, that will improve by age, the plan is to
mix all up together. The very last run will
make it rough, but it will have better body
and better flavor when 2 or 3 years old, and
will improve for a number of years. The
first run will not be good after 2 or o years.
742. To Fine Wine Difficult to Clari-
fy, or Thick in Consequence of an Im-
perfect Fermentation. To clarify CO gal-
lons, take 1 ounce of tho species of Dock or
Ruinex plant, called Patienco root, which boil
in 1 quart water. "When cold, filter, and add
1 ounce common salt, then 1 gla^s sheep's
blood. Beat all tho ingredients well together
with a broom until the mixture foams up
well, then add it gradually to tho wine, stir-
ring continually while pouring it in, and for
15 minutes afterwards. In a few days the
wine will bo clear.
743. To Fine Madeira or any kind of
Wine with Isinglass. To fine 40 gallons
wine, steep 1 ounce isinglass ia 1 pint of pure
cold water over night, and then melt it over
a gentle charcoal fire, until a uniform gelatin-
ous mass i.3 formed. When cool, mix with it
3 pints wine, and let it repose 12 hours in a
moderately warm room. Then add 1 gallon
wine and mix the whole in a wooden vessel ;
whisk it with a clean broom until it foams up.
Pour this mixture gradually in the wine you
desire to fine, being careful to stir the whole
continually during the process. Bung up the
cask, and in the course of 48 hours the wine
will appear perfectly clear and bright. Isin-
glass prepared in this way will precipitate
perfectly, and leave no particles suspended in
the wine.
744. To Fine White Wine with
Eggs. To fine GO gallons white wine, take
the whites of 5 or G fresh eggs, 1 egg-shell
nearly reduced to powder, and a small hand-
ful of common salt. Beat the whole together
in a little of tho wine, with a small clean
broom, until it foams, then pour it into the
wine gradually, constantly stirring it all the
while.
745. To Fine Red Wine. This is
clarified in tho same way. "When you have
Roussillon, or the dark wines called vin du
midi, which are usually of a deep color, and
wish to make it of a lighter color, add 5 or G
eggs, yellows, whites, and shells together,
with a small handful of Rait.
746. To Fine a Pipe of Port Wine.
Take the whites and shells of ten good eggs,
and beat them up to a froth in a wooden
bucket ; add 1 gallon of Port and whisk it
well up to a froth with a clean broom ; draw
off 4 gallons, and put the finings in it ; stir
it up well, leaving put the bung one day;
then bung it up, and in ten days it will bo fit
to bottle. If the weather be warm, mix up 1
pint silver sand and add to the finings.
747. To Fine Wine, Cider, Ale, or
Porter. Take 1 pound finely shredded isin-
glass, and macerate it in wine, sour beer,
cider, or vinegar; add more of the liquid as
the isinglass swells, until about a gallon has
been used, agitation with a whisk being occa-
sionally had recourse to, for the purpose of
promoting the solution. As soon as the
whole of tho isinglass is dissolved, the mix-
ture is reduced to the consistence of thin
syrup, with wine or the liquid that the
finings are intended for. The whole is next
strained through a cloth or hair sieve, and at
once reduced to a proper state of dilution, by
the addition of more liquor. A pound of
food isinglass will make 10 to 12 gallons of
nings. 1 to H pints is the usual quantity
for a barrel of ale or porter ; and 1 quart for a
hogshead of wine or cider.
748. To Decolor Wine. The color of
wine is subject to change ; naturally it is pre-
cipitated by age and exposure to the light ;
artificially it is removed by the action of
lime-water, skimmed milk, milk of lime, and
sometimes fresh-burnt charcoal. Wines that
have acquired a brown color from the cask, or
red wines that have become "pricked" (see
No. 752), or dark wines of any kind, may
easily be turned into white wine by employ-
ing either of the above substances. In this
way brown Sherry is commonly changed to
pale Sherry ; for this purpose 2 or 3 pints of
skimmed milk are generally sufficient to
decolor a cask of wine ; but when it is found
necessary to change the color of red wine, 2
or 3 quarts or more will be required. Char-
coal is not often used, as it affects the flavor
as well as color of wine. A little milk of
lime may sometimes be substituted for milk,
especially when tho wine to be decolored is
very acid, and red wines may be rendered
quite colorless by it.
749. To Remedy Ropiness in Wine.
The peculiar cloudy, stringy, oily appearance
in wine, called by the French " graisse," and
by the Americans "ropiness," is occasioned
by tho presence of a glutinous substance, and
is generally observed in those white wines
which do not contain much tannin. M.
Francois, a chemist, first discovered the
cause, and pointed out the proper remedy, in
the addition of tannin. He recommended the
use of 1 pound of the bruised berries of the
mountain ash in a somewhat unripe state,
well stirred in each barrel of the wine to be
improved. After agitation, the wine is to bo
left to repose a day or two, and then racked
off. Tho tannin in the berries by this time
will have separated and precipitated the
glutinous matter from the liquid, and removed
tho ropiuess. "Wines thus affected cannot be
fined in the regular way, as they do not con-
tain sufficient of the astringent principle to
cause tho coagulation or precipitation of the
finings ; this principle must therefore bo sup-
plied, and for pale white wines, which are
the kind chiefly attacked with ropiness, iioth-
88'
HOME-MADE WINES.
ing equals a little pure tannin or tannic acid
dissolved in proof spirit. Ked wines contain
so much tannic acid that they are never
troubled by ropiness. "Wine, after having
been cured of ropiness, should immediately be
fined and bottled.
750. To Ripen Wine. Dealers adopt
various ways to hasten the ripening of wine.
One of the safest and best plans for this pur-
pose, especially for strong wines, is to let them
remain on the lees 15 to 18 months before
racking off, or, whether " crude " or " racked,"
keeping them at a temperature ranging be-
tween 50° to 60° Fah., in a cellar free from
draughts, and not too dry. Dealers some-
times remove the bungs or corks, and substi-
tute bladders fastened air-tight. Bottled
wine treated in this way, and kept at about
70° Pah., ripens very rapidly. 4 or 5 drops of
acetic acid added to a bottle of some kinds of
new wine, immediately gives it the appearance
of being 2 or 3 years old.
751. To Remedy Sour Wine. The
souring of wine is produced by various cir-
cumstances, sometimes from its having been
kept in a warm cellar where it has been ex-
posed to draughts of air, often by the vibra-
tion occasioned by the rolling of heavy bodies
over the cellar ; but most frequently it origi-
nates from the wine having been imperfectly
fermented. The only safe remedy for the
souring of wine is the cautious addition of a
little neutral tartrate of potash ; it may also
be mixed with a larger quantity of rich wine
of its kind, at the same time adding a little
good brandy. Wine treated in this way
should be fined after having stood 2 or 3
weeks, and then immediately bottled, and
consumed as soon as possible, for it will never
prove a good keeping wine. (See No. 761.)
752. To Restore Pricked or Decay-
ing Wine. If the wine is only thick, add 2
pints of milk to every 30 gallons of wine, and
stir 10 minutes. But if the wine has an infe-
rior taste, or is partly or entirely spoiled,
treat it as follows : Put the 30 gallons wine
into a clean cask, then take 2 pints spirit of
wine, 95 per cent.; 3 ounces common salt ; 1
pound white sugar. Dissolve the salt and
sugar in | gallon of the wine, and add the
spirit. Then pour the whole gradually into
the wine, being careful to stir it continually
with a stick during the operation. After the
mixture is all poured in the wine, stir the
whole for 10 minutes longer. Then add 2
pints milk and continue stirring 10 minutes
more. After some days the wine will be com-
pletely clarified and restored. "Pricked"
wine signifies wine which has been slightly
soured.
753. To Remedy Excessive Acidity
in German Wine. Simply add a little
chalk. This mode of correcting the sourness
of wine is perfectly harmless, whereas the
pernicious practice of using white and vitri-
fied lead for this purpose cannot be too much
condemned. Lead in any form is a poison.
754. To Restore Sour Wine with
Potash. To 25 gallons wine, add 4 ounces
potash dissolved in a little water, and stir well
with a stick for 10 minutes.
755. To Test Wines Beginning to
Decompose. Many persons are unaware of
the difference between a wine that is begin-
ning to decompose (called in French the
Poux), and that in which the acetous fermen-
tation has commenced. The Poux appears at
the bottom of the barrel, while acetification
begins at the top. For the first stage of the
Poux the wine becomes thick, and has a pecu-
liar taste termed flat. For the second stage
the wine becomes still more troubled, and has
the taste of stagnant water. Finally, in the
last stage, when the decomposition has
reached its maximum, the wine becomes
grayish and appears like muddy water. If
some of the wine is put into a champagne
glass and a pinch of tartaric acid is added, a
red color will be produced, which will not
be the case if the wine is in a state of acetous
fermentation.
756. Remedy for Decomposition in
Wines. As soon as discovered add tartaric
acid in the proportion of If ounces to every
20 gallons of the wine, and let it rest for a
few days, when, if the wine has not regained
its natural color, a little more tartaric acid
must be added.
757. Sweating In and Fretting In
Wine. The technical terms "sweating in"
and "fretting in" are applied to the partial
production of a second fermentation, for the
purpose of mellowing down the flavor of for-
eign ingredients (chiefly brandy) added to
wine. For this purpose 4 or 5 pounds sugar
or honey, with alittle crude tartar (dissolved),
are commonly added per hogshead ; and when
the wine is wanted in haste, 1 or 2 spoonfuls
of yeast, or a few braised vine leaves are also
mixed in, the cask being placed in a moder-
ately warm situation until the new fermenta-
tion is established, when it is removed to the
wine-cellar, and, after a few days, fined down.
758. To Remove Mustiness from
Wine. The disagreeable taste in wine, gene-
rally known as mustiuess, is occasioned by
the presence of an essential oil. This may be
removed by adding a little sweet or almond oil,
and then violently stirring the wine for some
time. The fixed oil attracts and seizes on the
essential oil, and rises with it to the surface,
when it is easily skimmed off, or the liquid
under it drawn off. A few slices of burnt or
toasted bread, or a little bruised mustard
seed or coarsely powdered charcoal, will often
have the same effect. ^
759. Pasteur's Method of Preserving
Wines. M. Pasteur announced some time
ago that wines became spoiled in consequence
of the presence of microscopic organisms,
which could be destroyed by exposing the
wine, for a few moments only, to a tempera-
ture of 131° Fahr. A committee of experts
was appointed to make a comparative exam-
ination of wines which had and which had
not been subjected to heat; M. Lapparent
being President, and M. Dumas and M. Pas-
teur assisting. They concluded that the pre-
servation of wine in bottles is greatly im-
proved by heating; that the destruction of
the germs is perfect, without the least impair-
ment of the taste, color, or limpidity of the
wines.
760. To Determine the Nature of
Acidity in Wine. If wine has undergone
the acetous fermentation, then convert it at
once into vinegar by one of the usual modes.
But if its acidity proceeds from an excess of
CORDIALS OR LIQUEURS.
89
tartaric acid, this defect may be remedied by
shaking the wine with a concentrated solution
of neutral tartrate of potassa, which, with
the surplus of tartaric acid, will form bitar-
trate of potassa, and precipitate as such. To
discover the nature of the acidity, neutralize
an ounce or so of the wine with some car-
bonate of soda, then add a small quantity of
sulphuric acid, and boil up ; if acetic acid or
vinegar be present, it will be perceptible by
its odor. (See No. 751.)
761. Parent's Method of Preserving
Wine. This consists in the addition of a
small quantity of tannin or tannic acid to the
wine, which perhaps acts in a similar way, by
destroying the vitality of the spores of the
fungus, since a microscopic examination of
wine known to contain these germs, within
a few weeks after being treated with the tan-
nin, has failed to detect the slightest trace.
Indeed, wine which has already begun to
change, and become turbid, can be restored to
its primitive clearness, and with a great im-
provement in its taste. Care must be taken,
however, to use only tannin which has been
prepared from the constituents of the grape,
since the slightest proportion of the extract
of nut-gall, although accomplishing the gen-
eral object of destroying the fungus, will im-
part a peculiar taste, which never disappears.
762. Antiferments. Substances used
in small quantities for arresting fermentation
in cider, wine, and malt liquors. The follow-
ing formulae are effective, and have the advan-
tage of being harmless. (See No. 835.)
763. Antiferments for Cider. Sul-
phite (not sulphate) of lime in fine powder,
and as newly- prepared as possible. Or, 2
Earts sulphite of lime and 3 parts ground
lack mustard seed.
764. Antiferments for Cider, Wine,
Malt Liquors. &c. Grind or bruise togeth-
er 13 pounds new mustard seed and 1 pound
cloves. This mixture may be used with or
without the addition of 10 ounces ground
capsicum.
765. To Induce Fermentation. If
fermentation does not begin within a reason-
able time, raise the temperature by covering
the vessel with blankets, and moving it near
to a fire. Or, warm a portion of the must and
add it*to the rest. A small quantity of yeast,
previously well mixed with some of the liquor,
gently stirred in, will have the same effect.
Or, the must may be warmed by placing
large stone bottles, filled with boiling water
and well corked, in the liquor.
766. To Arrest Fermentation. Dip a
strip of linen or cotton, an inch wide and
seven inches long, into melted sulphur. Pas-
ten a wire into the bung of a 60-gallon cask,
so that the end will hang about the middle of
the inside of the cask, bend the end up to
form a hook, place the sulphur tape on the
hook, ignite it, and insert it in the cask, bung-
ing loosely. In about an hour the cask will
be impregnated with sulphurous acid ; then
withdraw the match, and fill up with wine,
and bung up tight. This will stop further
fermentation. This is a good plan for white
wines, but not for red wines, as sulphur in-
jures their color. Sulphite (not sulphate) of
lime is also sometimes employed to arrest fer-
mentation. (See No. 835.)
/Cordials or Liqueurs. The
V^ materials employed in the preparation of
cordials are rain or distilled water, white
sugar, and clean, perfectly flavorless spirit.
To these may be added the substances from
which the flavor and aroma are extracted,
which distinguish and give character to the
particular cordial to be made, and also the arti-
cles employed as "finings" when artificial
clarification is had recourse to. In the prep-
aration or compounding of cordials, one of •
the first objects which engages the operator's
attention is the production of an alcoholic
solution of the aromatic principles which are
to give them their peculiar aroma and flavor.
(See No. 812.) This is done either by simple
infusion or maceration, or by maceration and
subsequent distillation, or by flavoring the
spirit with essential oils. In the preparation
of liqueurs, glycerine has been found to be
admirably adapted for preserving the charac-
teristic flavors of those compounds, and it has
consequently become the great favorite of
this class of manufactures. (See No. 725.)
768. Cordials Made by Maceration,
or with. Essential Oils. When essential
oils are employed to convey the flavor, they
are first dissolved in a little of the strongest
rectified spirit of wine, and when added to the
spirit they are mixed up with the whole mass
as rapidly and as perfectly as possible by labo-
rious and long continued agitation. The
stronger spirit may be reduced to the desired
strength by means of clear soft water, or the
clarified syrup used for sweetening. The
sugar employed should be of the finest quality,
and is preferably made into syrup before
adding it to the aromatized spirit ; and this
should not be added until the latter has been
rendered perfectly fine by filtering or fining.
Some spirits, as anise seed, etc., frequently
require this treatment, which is best performed
by running them through a fine and clean
filter, having previously mixed them with a
spoonful or two of magnesia. By good man-
agement, cordials thus made will be perfectly
clear and transparent; but should this not
be the case, they may be fined with the whites
of about 12 or 20 eggs to the hogshead, or by
adding a little alum, either alone or followed
by a little carbonate of soda or potassa, both
dissolved in water. In a week or a fortnight
the liquor will be clear.
769. To Make Doppelt Kummel or
Caraway. Dissolve separately, each in a
little 95 per cent, alcohol, £ drachm oil of
anise, and 5 drops each of the oils of calamus,
bitter almonds, and coriander; dissolve also 1 to
1-J- ounces oil of caraway in sufficient alcohol
(95 per cent.) to make a clear solution. In-
corporate these with 40 gallons French proof
spirit ; and add 10 pounds sugar dissolved in
5 gallons water.
770. To Make Anisette. To 30 gallons
French proof spirit add 4 ounces essence of star
anise dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol, and 105
gallons syrup of 10° Baume. Stir for i an
hour, settle and filter.
771. To Make Curacoa. Slice the out-
side peel very thin from 60 bitter oranges;
infuse for 15" days with 4 drachms bruised
cinnamon, and 2 drachms bruised mace, in 5
gallons 95 per cent. French spirit, stirring
every day. Then add 25 pounds white sugar
90
CORDIALS OR LIQUEURS.
dissolved in 2 gallons water; color with
caramel (see No. 694) ; stir thoroughly, and
filter.
772. To Make Maraschino. Dissolve
in. H gallons 95 per cent, alcohol, 1^ ounces
essence of maraschino, 1£ drachms essence of
rose, k drachm essence of noyau, 5 drops essence
of cloves, and 8 drops essence of cinnamon ; add
k gallon orris root flavoring. (See No. 669.)
Mix the above with 12 gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol and 26 gallons syrup of 30° Baume.
Stir thoroughly and filter.
773. Superfine Maraschino. 4 ounces
essence of noyau ; 1 ounce essence of rose ; i
ounce essence of neroli (genuine); 4 drachms
of mace, infused in 95 per cent, alcohol ; J
pound cinnamon, infused in 1 quart of water ;
2 ounces cloves, infused in 1 pint of water ; 2
pounds orris root (powdered), infused in 2
gallons 95 per cent, alcohol for 15 days. Dis-
solve the essences in 2 gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol. Mix, put into a barrel 41 gallons 85
per cent, alcohol ; add the aromas, in 4 gallons
95 per cent, alcohol ; sugar syrup, 90 gallons
32° Baum6. Stir all the ingredients well to-
gether for at least half an hour, and let the
mixture stand two weeks ; then filter and put
in the filter two or three sheets of filtering
paper. (See No. 811.)
774. Maraschino, li ounces essence of
maraschino, li drachms essence of rose, i
drachm essence of noyau, 8 drops essence of
cinnamon, 5 drops essence of cloves, 4 pound
orris root (powdered), infused in i gallon 95
per cent, alcohol for 15 days. Dissolve the
essences in 1 gallon 95 per cent, alcohol. Mix,
put in a barrel 12 gallons 80 per cent, alcohol
and add 2 gallons 95 per cent, perfumed alco-
hol (as described above) ; sugar syrup, 26 gal-
lons 25° Baum6's saccharometer. Mix and
filter as directed in the last receipt.
775. Maraschino. 3J ounces essence
of noyau, 6 drachms essence of rose. Dis-
solve the above in £ gallon 95 per cent, alco-
hol, and add 4 spoonfuls of magnesia, 1 gal-
lon orange flower water, k pound cinnamon
; (bruised) infused in i gallon water, J pound
cloves (bruised), infused in J gallon of water,
4 drachms mace infused in alcohol, 2 pounds
orris root (powdered) infused in 2 gallons 95
per cent, alcohol for 15 days. Mix 41 gallons
80 per cent, alcohol, 90 gallons syrup 25
degrees Baume, and add 4 gallons perfumed
spirits, as described above. Stir and filter as
already directed.
776. Curacoa d'Hollande. 2 pounds
Curacoa orange peel, £ pound Ceylon cinna-
mon. Let them soak in water ; boil them for
5 minutes with the juice of 32 oranges and 14
gallons of white plain syrup ; then add 6 gal-
lons of 95 per cent, alcohol ; strain, filter ;
color dark yellow with sugar coloring. This
receipt will make a splendid curacoa.
777. Curacao. 2 ounces each essence of
bitter oranges and neroli ; J ounce essence of
cinnamon ; 3 drachms mace infused in alcohol.
Dissolve the above essences in 1 gallon 95
per cent, alcohol, then put in a clean barrel
13 gallons 85 per cent, alcohol, 26 gallons
sugar syrup 30 degrees Baume, and add 1
gallon perfumed spirit, as above. Color with
saffron or turmeric.
778. Champion Anisette. Put into a
barrel 30 gallons 85 per cent, alcohol. Add
4 ounces essence of anise seed, which dissolve
in 2 gallons 95 per cent, alcohol. Add 103
gallons sugar syrup 10° Baume. Stir 15
minutes and let it rest 4 or 5 days, then filter.
Add 2 or 3 sheets of filtering paper. (See No.
811.)
779. Anisette. Put in a barrel 13 gal-
lons 95 per cent, alcohol. Dissolve 3£ ounces
essence of green anise seed in 1 gallon 95
per cent, alcohol, and add h gallon orange
flower water, 8 or 10 drops infusion of mace,
and 5 drops essence of cinnamon. Then put
in the barrel 26 gallons sugar syrup 25°
Baume'. Stir and filter as directed in the last
receipt.
780. Anise Seed Cordial. Dissolve 3
drachms of oil of anise seed in 2f gallons of
95 per cent, alcohol ; then add 2j gallons of
fine white syrup, mixed with 4f gallons of
water. Stir and filter.
781. Malliorca d'Espagne. 40 gallons
55 per cent, alcohol, 5 ounces essence green
anise seed and 5 ounces essence of star seed
dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol, £ drachm
ether (to give the cordial age). Stir and
filter.
782. Blackberry Brandy. To 10 gal-
lons blackberry juice, and 25 gallons spirits
40 above proof, add 1 drachm each of oil of
cloves and oil of cinnamon dissolved in 95
per cent, alcohol, and 12 pounds white sugar
dissolved in 6 gallons water. Dissolve the
oils separately in 4 pint 95 per cent, alcohol ;
mix both together, and use one half the quan-
tity ; if the cordial is not sufficiently flavored,
use the balance.
783. Blackberry Brandy, i ounce
each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, 1 drachm
cardamom. Grind to a coarse powder; add
to 16 pounds of blackberries, mashed, and 5
gallons of 95 per cent, alcohol. 'Macerate
for two weeks ; press it; then add 10 pounds
of sugar, dissolved in 3$ gallons of water.
Filter.
784. Cherry Brandy. Mash 16 pounds
of black cherries with their stones; 5 gal-
lons 95 per cent, alcohol. Macerate for two
weeks; press it; then add 10 pounds of sugar,
dissolved in 3| gallons of water. Filter.
785. Peach Brandy. Mash 18 pounds
of peaches, with their stones ; macerate them
for 24 hours with 4f gallons of 95 pe* cent,
alcohol and 4 gallons water. Strain, press,
and filter; add 5 pints white plain syrup.
Color dark yellow with burnt sugar coloring.
786. Imperial Peach Brandy. Take
4k ounces powdered bitter almonds, :i£ gallons
of 95 per cent, alcohol, CJ- gallons of water.
Mix together, and macerate for 24 hours ; then
add a strained syrup, made of 33 pounds of
sugar, 1 pint of peach jelly, 2£ ounces preserved
ginger, 1 lemon cut in slices, 1 drachm of
grated nutmegs, 1 drachm of allspice in pow-
der, and 5 pints of water boiled for 2 minutes.
Mix the whole, and filter.
787. Peppermint Brandy. To 40 gal-
lons proof spirit add 4 .ounces essence of pep-
permint, dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol.
Color with k pound powder of turmeric
infused in 1 gallon spirit 95 per cent. Use
this infusion in such quantity as to get the
proper shade.
788. Kirschenwasser. 100 gallons proof
alcohol, 5 ounces essence of noyau, 2 drachms
CORDIALS OK LIQUEURS.
91
essence of rose. Dissolve the latter ingre-
dient in some 95 per cent, alcohol and add
a spoonful of magnesia, 2 pounds orris root
(powdered), infused 15 days in 2 gallons
95 per cent, alcohol, 1£ gallons sugar syrup.
Stir, and filter if necessary.
789. Caraway Cordial. Dissolve G
drachms oil of caraway in 3 gallons 95 per
cent, alcohol ; add a syrup made of 42 pounds
of sugar and 4f gallons of water. Filter.
790. Ratafia. This word is derived from
the Latin pas ratafiat (let peace be ratified).
The Latins used to drink ratafia on signing their
treaties of peace. Katafia may be made with
the juice of any fruit. Take 3 gallons cherry
juice, 4 pounds sugar, dissolved in the cherry
juice. Steep in 2$ gallons brandy 10 days
2 drachms cinnamon, 24 cloves, 16 ounces
peach leaves, 8 ounces bruised cherry ker-
nels. Filter; mix both liquors, and filter
again.
791. To Prepare Cherry Juice by In-
fusion for making Cherry Bounce and
Brandy. Put the cherries into barrels and
cover them with 95 per cent, spirit ; let them
steep for 1 month, and stir them well every
8 days. Use the juice that runs off first, and
repeat this operation 2 or 3 times. The last
time, you may bruise the cherries and stones,
and steep them all together to make cherry
brandy.
792. To Prepare Cherry Juice for
Boiling. Put the cherries in a kettle tinned
inside, cover them with water, and boil them
at a gentle heat for 1 hour. "When cold put
them into barrels and add 1 gallon 95 per
cent, spirit to each 10 gallons of the juice.
793. To Make Cherry Bounce (Su-
perfine). To 15 gallons cherry juice, add 15
gallons 80 per cent, spirit; 30 gallons Catalonia
or Marseilles wine ; 1£ ounces essence of noyau;
3 ounces mace infused in 1 quart 95 per
cent, alcohol; £ pound cinnamon infused in 4
gallon water; £ pound cloves ground and
infused in 1 quart of water. Put all the
above ingredients in a clean barrel and add 60
gallons sugar syrup 23° Baunie. Stir up the
ingredients well, and filter after 4 or 5 days.
If the color is not deep enough add a little
sugar coloring. The above receipt is to make
120 gallons, but a much smaller quantity may
be made by reducing the quantity of each in-
gredient and observing the same proportion in
all.
794. To make Cherry Bounce (Sec-
ond duality). To 12 gallons cherry juice,
add 30 gallons 80 per cent, spirit ; 30 gallons
Catalonia or Marseilles wine ; 3 ounces essence
of noyau ; -J- pound cinnamon ground and
infused in 4 gallon water; 4 pound cloves
ground and infused in 4 gallon water; 14
ounce mace infused in 1 pint 95 per cent,
alcohol. Mix all the above ingredients in a
clean barrel, and add 60 gallons sugar syrup 13°
Baume'. Stir up all the ingredients well
together, and filter after 4 or 5 days. Make
the color a little darker with sugar coloring
(see No. 694), and to give a good shade add a
little archil.
795. To Make Guignolet, or French
Cherry Bounce. To 20 gallons cherry juice
add 74 gallons 95 per cent, spirit; 7£ gallons
Catalonia or Marseilles wine ; f ounce pow-
dered orris root (infused in li gallons 95
per cent, alcohol) ; k gallon cinnamon water
(made as in last receipt) ; £ gallon clove water
(made as in last receipt) ; 14 ounces mace
infused in 95 per cent, alcohol. Mix all the
above ingredients in a clean barrel, and add
68 gallons sugar syrup 25° Baume. Stir up
the mixture and let it rest 8 days ; then strain.
796. Cordials by Distillation. The
solid ingredients should be coarsely pounded
or bruised before digestion in the spirit, and
this should be done immediately before putting
them into the cask or vat ; as, after they are
bruised, they rapidly lose their aromatic prop-
erties by exposure to the air. The practice
of drying the ingredients before pounding
them, adopted by some workmen for the mere
sake of lessening the labor, cannot be too
much avoided, as the least exposure to heat
tends to lessen their aromatic properties,
which are very volatile. The length of time
the ingredients should bo digested in the
spirit should never be less than 3 or 4 days,
but a longer period is preferable when distil-
lation is not employed. In either case the
time allowed for digestion may be advantage-
ously extended to 10 or 15 days, and frequent
agitation should be had recourse to. In
managing the still, the fire should be propor-
tioned to the ponderosity of the oil or flavoring,
and the receiver should be changed before the
faints come over, as the latter are unfit to be
mixed with the cordial. The stronger spirit
may be reduced to the desired strength by
means of clear soft water, or the clarified
syrup used for sweetening.
797. To Make Absinthe by Distilla-
tion. Put the following ingredients into a
cask : — 1£ pounds large absinthe, 2 pounds
small absinthe, 24 pounds long fennel, 24
pounds star anise (breaking the star only), 24
pounds green anise seed, 6 ounces coriander
seed, and 1 pound hyssop ; moisten the whole
with a little water, allowing it time to soften
and swell ; then add 12 gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol, and steep for 2 or 3 days ; next add
10 gallons water, and let the whole steep for
1 day more. The water will reduce the alco-.
hoi to about 23 gallons of proof spirit. Dis-
till it, and it will produce nearly 15 gallons
absinthe of 65 to 70 per cent, strength.
Change the receiver as soon as the spirit, as it
comes from the worm, begins to assume a
reddish tinge. Color the distilled product, by
steeping in it for 10 or 15 days 4 pound mint
leaves, i pound melissa leaves, 4 pound small
absinthe, 2 ounces citron peel, and 4 pound
bruised liquorice root. Strain and filter.
798. Absinthe by Distillation. This
is made in the same manner as in the former
receipt, with the following ingredients : — 40
gallons 75 per cent, spirits, 20 pounds fennel,
20 pounds green anise, 16 pounds large absin-
the, 1 pound coriander, and 20 gallons water.
This is colored, after distillation, by adding 4
pounds small absinthe, and heating it again
until as hot as the hand can bear ; then extin-
guish the fire, let it cool, settle, and filter it.
799. Superfine Curacoa. Charge of the
still: 35 pounds green orange peel, or 50 pounds
yellow; 25 gallons 95 per cent, alcohol ; add 4
gallons water, making in all 29 gallons, at 90
percent. Digest for 10 days, and stir daily. In
making the above, the following directions
must be carefully observed:— I. Distill very
COEDIALS OE LIQUEURS.
carefully. II. When you have drawn offSO gal-
lons, add 10 gallons water, to draw off the faints,
which may bo distilled again in the next distil-
lation. III. To make superfine Curacoa, distill
over again in a water-bath, adding 5 gallons
water. IV. To know when the faints are coming
off, take a little in a glass as it flows, and add
J water, as if for absinthe. When it no longer
turns milky, the faints are coming off; reserve
them for the next distillation. Reduce the
Curagoa above distilled to 82 per cent. Tralle's,
which will give 26 gallons. Add 12 gallons
82 per cent, spirit, 7 gallons coloiing (as given
below), 90 gallons syrup 31° Baurne.
800. Coloring for Curacoa. 3£ pounds
Brazil wood ; If pounds each Campeachy and
yellow wood, 7 gallons 90 per cent, alcohol.
Mix the above and heat in a water-bath, put-
ting on the head. "When the head begins to
get hot, rake out the fire and let the whole
cool together in the bath.
. 801. Superfine Maraschino. Charge
of the still with water-bath : Take 70 pounds
peach or apricot stones, wash with tepid wa-
ter, and put them into a barrel, making a
square hole 4 or 5 inches, in the head, for that
purpose. Cover them with 35 gallons 95
per cent, alcohol, and let them steep for one
month. Then distill the whole.
N"ote the following observations. — I. Be-
fore distilling, add 4 pounds of peach flowers.
II. Keep the fire at the same degree of heat,
or the Maraschino will have an oily taste.
III. "When nearly finished, add 10 gallons wa-
ter, to draw off the faints, which will do for
another distillation. Reduce the spirit above
distilled to 82 per cent, and you will get 45
gallons. If you have not that quantity, add
spirit of the same strength to make it up.
Then add 90 gallons sugar syrup 32° Baume.
When you have not used peach flowers in the
distillation, take 2 pounds orris root powder,
and steep it in 2 gallons alcohol 95 per cent,
for 15 days ; then filter, and add it to the mix-
ing, not to the, distillation.
802. Boitard's Anisette. Charge of
the still, water-bath : 20 pounds green anise
(washed in river water), 3 pounds star anise
(being careful to break the stars only), 1
pound coriander seed (bruised), 40 gallons 95
per cent, alcohol. Put the above into the
water-bath with 4 gallons water, and distill.
After distilling 35 gallons, add 10 gallons of
water to bring off the faints, which may be
distilled again. The first 5 gallons of faints
may be added to the distilled spirit, which
will give 40 gallons aromatized alcohol. Re-
duce this to 80 per cent, by adding, say 5
gallons distilled water, and then add 90 gal-
lons fine white sugar syrup, 31° Baurne. This
will give 135 gallons fine anisette.
803. Chauvet's Anisette. Charge of
the still, water-bath : 20 pounds green anise,
1-J pounds coriander seed, 2 drachms neroli,
7f pounds star anise (break the stars only), 1-J
pounds orris root powdered, 40 gallons 95 per
cent, alcohol. Treat precisely as in the last
receipt. Reduce the perfumed alcohol to 82
per cent, by adding 4 gallons water, and fur-
ther add l| gallons double orange flower wa-
ter, and 90 gallons white syrup 31° Baume".
Stir well and let it rest 5 to 8 days, then filter
through blotting paper. This will give 135
gallons superfine anisette.
804. Marasquino di Zara. Charge of
the still, water-bath : 18 pounds raspberries,
G pounds orange flowers, 12 pounds sour red
cherries (Morello). Mash the whole to a pulp
with stones, macerate 24 hours with 7 gallons
95 per cent, alcohol and 7 gallons of water.
Distill from off the water, 6 gallons flavored
alcohol, and add 14 gallons of the whitest
plain syrup about 34° Baume.
805. Malliorca d'Espagne. Charge of
the still, water-bath : 40 gallons 55 per cent,
alcohol, 18 pounds green anise seed, 5 gallons
river water. Put into the water-bath only 20
gallons of the alcohol, and 5 gallons river wa-
ter. When 18 gallons are distilled off, add
the remaining 20 gallons of alcohol, and con-
tinue the distillation until 18 gallons more are
obtained, which mix with the 18 gallons previ-
ously obtained, and add one drachm of ether to
give it age.
806. Elixir Vegetal de la Grande
Chartreuse. Macerate 640 parts by weight,
each, of the fresh herb of sweet balm and
hyssop, 320 parts of fresh root of angelica, 160
of cannella, and 40 each of Spanish saffron
and mace, in 10,000 parts of alcohol, for eight
days. Then distill it onto a certain quantity
(which varies according to the color desired)
of fresh balm and hyssop ; after a time these
are expressed, the liquor sweetened with 1250
parts of sugar, and filtered.
807. Fining with Isinglass for Cor-
dials. Take half an ounce of the best isin-
glass, and dissolve it over a gentle fire, in a
pint of water slightly seasoned with good
vinegar, or three tea-spoonfuls of lemon juice.
Beat it from time to time, adding a little of
the seasoned water. When you obtain a com
plete solution, gradually add the foaming li-
quid to the cordial, stirring all the while.
Then stir for 15 minutes after it is all added,
and let it rest for 3 days ; by that time the
cordial will be bright and clear. The above
quantity is sufficient to clarify 25 gallons of
cordial.
808. Fining with Eggs for Cordials.
Take the whites of 4 eggs, beat them to a stiff
froth, add a little alcohol, and mix it gradually
with 20 gallons of cordial, stirring all the
while, and it will soon clarify the liquor.
809. Fining with Potash for Cor-
dials. 2 ounces of carbonate of potash (salts
of tartar), dissolved in a quart of water, is
sufficient to settle 20 gallons of cordial ; add
and stir as directed above.
810. Fining with Alum for Cordials.
6 drachms of powdered calcinated alum, dis-
solved in alcohol, is sufficient to clarify 20
gallons of cordial ; add as directed above.
811. Filter Bags for Cordials. The
filter bags used for rendering cordials trans-
parent are made of flannel, felt, Canton flannel,
and other materials, according to the thickness
or density of the liquor, and are generally of a
conical shape, In order to perform the oper-
ation of filtering cordials thoroughly, it is
necessary that there should be placed inside
of each bag 1 or 2 sheets of filtering paper
prepared as follows : Rub each sheet of paper
until it becomes soft and flimsy, like a piece
of cloth, then tear it in small pieces and place
it in a pail, pour over it a little boiling water,
and rub and beat it up until it becomes a soft
pulp; afterwards add more water, and continue
BITTERS.
93
the same as if you were beating up eggs.
"When the pulp assumes the appearance ot a
fine paste, fill up the pail with water and
throw the contents into the filter ; as soon as
the water has run through, fill up the filter
again so as to keep it full. "When the liquid
runs clear and limpid let it all run through,
and commence filtering the cordial, being
careful to keep the filter always full. If the
liquor does not run clear, add about 2 ounces
of granulated animal charcoal (sifted and
fanned from the dust) to each filter. The
charcoal should be washed with a little muri-
atic acid before being used.
812. The Aroma of Cordials. It re-
quires a great deal of experience to combine
different perfumes to produce any certain re-
quired aroma, a knowledge is necessary of
the effect produced by perfumes in combina-
tion. The mere facts laid down in receipts
will not be sufficient for a liquor manufacturer ;
he must know just what, and how much of it
to use, to counteract what is objectionable,
and produce or increase the correct aroma.
He will frequently find that a single aromatic
perfume fails to give the effect he anticipated;
and yet the addition of a mere atom of some
other perfume may be all that is required.
Thus, the flavor of star-anise is accompanied
by a slight, but objectionable odor of bed-
bugs ; a very small addition of green anise
and fennel counteracts this. Ambergris,
alone, gives scarcely any perfume, but musk
brings it out. The quince has a peculiar
taste which is corrected by cloves ; the after-
taste of cinnamon is also destroyed by cloves ;
vanilla has more flavor if pounded with sugar
than when ground with it. Absinthe requires
the zest of the lemon to take away its naturally
bitter taste. These examples will show that
considerable experience is needed to be able
to blend perfumes with any degree of success.
(See No. 767.)
813. Imitation Peach Brandy. Take
^ gallon honey dissolved in water ; 3f gallons
alcohol; £ gallon Jamaica rum; 1 ounce
catechu, bruised to a paste ; 1 ounce acetic
ether. Add water to make 10 gallons, fla-
vored with 4 ounces of bitter almonds. No
coloring required.
Bltt6rS. Bitters are considered as
tonic and stomachic, and to improve
the appetite when taken in moderation. The
best time is early in the morning, or an hour
before meals. An excessive use of bitters
tends to weaken the stomach. They should
not be taken for a longer period than a fort-
night at one time, allowing a similar period
to elapse before again having recourse to
them.
815. To Make French Cognac Bit-
ters. Take 1-J pounds each red Peruvian
bark, calisaya bark, bitter orange peel, and
sweet orange peel ; 2 ounces calamus root ; 4
ounces cardamom seeds ; 1£ ounces each cin-
namon, cloves, and nutmegs ; 4 ounces cara-
way seed, and 3 pounds wild cherry bark.
Pound all these ingredients to a coarse powder
and steep for 15 days in 45 gallons proof
spirit (or 60 gallons spirit 25 below proof),
stirring occasionally. Then rack it off, and
mix sufficient caramel (see No. 694) to make
it a dark red; add 15 pounds white sugar dis-
solved in 15 gallons water; let the whole
settle, then filter. If the bitters are required
to be of an amber color, omit the wild cherry
bark and the caramel coloring.
816. To Make Angostura Bitters.
Take 4 ounces gentian root ; 10 ounces each
calisaya bark, Canada snake-root, Yirginia
snake-root, liquorice root, yellow bark, allspice,
dandelion root, and Angostura bark ; 6 ounces
cardamom seeds; 4 ounces each balsam of tolu,
orangetis, Turkey rhubarb, and galanga; 1
pound orange peel ; 1 pound alkanet root ; 1J-
ounces caraway seed ; 1-J- ounces cinnamon ; i
ounce cloves ; 2 ounces each nutmegs, coriander
seed, catechu, and wormwood; 1 ounce mace;
1J pounds red saunders, and 8 ounces curcuma.
Pound these ingredients and steep them as in
the last receipt, in 50 gallons spirit ; and, be-
fore filtering, add 30 pounds honev.
817. Amazon Bitters. Take 90 gal-
lons plain proof spirit ; 3£ pounds red Peru-
vian bark ; 3J pounds calisaya bark ; 1£
pounds calamus root; 4f pounds orange peel ;
3k ounces cinnamon; 3 i ounces cloves; 3 Boun-
ces nutmeg; 2 ounces cassia buds ; 6i pounds
red saunders. First mash all the ingredients,
put them in the spirit, and let them infuse 14
days, being careful to stir the mixture well
twice every day. Then rack off and color
with 11 pints brandy coloring, to get a dark
red tint. Stir J hour. Dissolve 30 pounds
white sugar in 30 gallons water; add, and
again stir i hour. Let the mixture rest 4 or 5
days, and when bright, bottle. If the red
saunders is not used, the color will be a bright
amber. This is the finest bitters in the
market. Compounded according to the above
directions, the dealer will obtain 120 gallons
25 below proof.
818. Boker's Bitters. Take li ounces
quassia; Ik ounces calamus; li ounces
catechu (powdered) ; 1 ounce cardamom ; 2
ounces dried orange peel. Macerate the
above 10 days in i gallon strong whiskey, and
then filter and add 2 gallons Water. Color
with mallow or malva flowers.
819. Stoughton Bitters. To 12 pounds
dry orange peel, 3 pounds Virginia snake-
root, 1 pound American saffron, 16 pounds
gentian root, add 1 pound red saunders.
Grind all the above ingredients to a coarse
powder, and macerate for 10 days in 20 gal-
lons 65 per cent, alcohol, then filter.
820. Stoughton Bitters. (Another
Eeceipt.) 2 pounds ginsing; 2 pounds gen-
tian root; li pounds dry orange peel; i
pound Virginia snake-root ; 1 ounce quassia ;
i pound cloves ; 3 ounces red saunders wood ;
3 gallons alcohol 95 per cent.; 3 gallons soft
water. Grind all the ingredients to coarse
powder, infuse 10 days; and filter.
821. Wild Cherry Bitters. Take of
wild cherry bark, 4 pounds; squaw vine
(Partridge berry), 1 pound ; Juniper berries,
8 ounces. Pour boiling water over the above
and let it stand for 24 hours ; strain, and pour
again boiling water on the ingredients; let
it macerate for 12 hours, then express and
filter through paper, so that the whole will
make 5 gallons, to which add of sugar, 3i
pounds; molasses, li gallons; tincture of
94=
CIDER.
peach kernels, 6 ounces ; tincture of prickly
ash berries, 3 ounces; alcohol, 2 quarts.
822. To Make Peruvian Bitters
Take 8 ounces red Peruvian bark ; 8 ounce
orange peel; 1£ drachms each cinnamon, cloves
and nutmeg; and 75 cayenne pepper seeds
Infuse them, well bruised, in 8 gallons proo
spirits, for 15 to 20 days, stirring every day
Draw off and filter.
823. Brandy Bitters. Grind to coars
powder 3 pounds gentian root, 2 pounds dry
orange peel, 1 pound cardamom seeds, 2 ounces
cinnamon, 2 ounces cochineal. Infuse 10
days in 1 gallon brandy, 8 gallons water, and
filter.
824. Nonpareil Bitters. Grind to
coarse powder 2 ounces Peruvian bark, j
ounce sweet orange peel, i ounce bittei
orange peel, 25 grains cinnamon, 25 grains
cloves, 25 grains nutmeg, 15 cayenne seeds
Infuse ten days in 2 gallons 65 per cent, alco-
hol, then filter.
825. Spanish Bitters. Grind to coarse
powder 5 ounces polypody, 6 ounces calamus
root, 8 ounces orris root, 2£ ounces coriander
seed, 1 ounce centauriurn, 3 ounces orange
peel, 2 ounces German camomile flowers;
then macerate with 4| gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol and add 5J gallons water and
ounces of sugar. Filter and color brown.
826. Aromatic Bitters. Macerate 2f
pounds ground dried small orange apples,
pound ground dried orange peel, 2 ounce
ground dried calamus root, 2 ounces ground
.dried pimpinella root, 1 ounce ground dried
cut hops, for 14 days, with 10 gallons of spirit
at 45 per cent.; press, and add 24 pints brown
sugar syrup. Filter. Color dark brown.
827. Stomach Bitters. Grind to a
coarse powder i pound cardamom seeds, |
pound nutmegs, £ pound grains of Paradise, |
pound cinnamon, £ pound cloves, J pound
finger, J pound galanga, £ pound orange peel,
pound lemon peel ; then macerate with 4f
gallons 95 per cent, alcohol, and add a syrup
made of 4i gallons water and 12 pounds sugar;
then filter.
828. Hamburg Bitters. Grind to a
coarse powder 2 ounces agaric, 5 ounces cin-
namon, 4 ounces cassia buds, i ounce grains
of Paradise, 3 ounces quassia wood, £ ounce
cardamom seeds, 3 ounces gentian root, 3
ounces orange apples dried, lit ounces orange
peel ; macerate with 4J gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol, mixed with 5f gallons water; add 2|
ounces acetic ether. Color brown.
829. Bitters made with Essences.
40 gallons proof spirit, 1 drachm oil of anise,
1 drachm oil of caraway, A drachm oil of
cloves, 1 drachm oil of lemon, 1 drachm oil of
oranges, 1 drachm oil of cinnamon, \ drachm
oil of bitter almonds, 1 gallon sugar syrup.
Cut the oils in 95 per cent, alcohol, and mix.
Color with brandy coloring.
830. Bitter Filter. A fine bitter filter
may be made according to fig. 5, JSTo. 17.
831. Orange Bitters. Macerate 6 pounds
orange peel for 24 hours with 1 gallon water,
cut the yellow part of the peel from off the
white, and chop it fine ; macerate with 4f
gallons 95 per cent, alcohol for two 'weeks,
or displace (see No. 41); then add a syrup
made of 4£ gallons water and 16 pounds sugar.
Filter through Canton flannel.
Cider. To make good cider the ap-
ples should be allowed to hang on the
tree as long as the wind and frosty nights
will let them. The riper they are, the better
the cider. They are picked* up and placed
in a large heap, either in the orchard or at the
cider mill, and are allowed to lie a few days
to complete the ripening process, in which
the starch is converted into sugar, and if any
are found bruised or rotten, put them in a
heap by themselves, for an inferior cider to
make vinegar. They are then rasped or
ground into pulp. If the weather is cool and
the apples are not quite ripe, it is better to
let the pulp remain in the vat a few days be-
fore pressing out the juice. This gives the
cider a higher color, makes it sweeter, and of
better flavor.
833. To Press the Apples. The pro-
cess of pressing is simple, but requires some
skill. 4 boards about 6 inches wide are
nailed together in a square, the size it is
desired to make the cheese, say from 4 to 5
feet. This is placed on the bottom of the
press, and a little clean rye or wheat straw,
pulled out straight into bundles, is put inside,
with the ends extending about a foot all
around. The pulp is then put into this rim,
forming a layer about 6 inches thick ; the
straw is then turned on it, and a little pulp
placed on the straw to keep it down. The
rim is then lifted and a stick is placed at each
corner on the layer of pulp added, and the
straw turned over it as before. This process
is repeated until the cheese is as large as de-
sired, using say from 75 to 100 bushels of ap-
ples. When they can be obtained u?e hair
sloths instead of straw, to place between the
layers of pomace. The straw, when heated,
gives a disagreeable taste to the cider.
834. Sweet or TJnfermented Cider.
The cider will commence to flow at once, and
it is better to let the cheese settle down some-
what before turning the screw. If pressed
;oo much at first, the pulp may burst out at
the sides. As the cider runs from the press,
et it pass through a hair-sieve into a large
open vessel, that will hold as much juice as
an be expressed in one day. The cheese is
enerally allowed to remain under the press
all night, and before leaving it in the evening,
;he screw is turned as tight as possible. In
;he morning additional pressure is given, and
when the cider has ceased to flow, the screw
s turned back, the boards taken off, and the
corners of the cheese are cut off with a hay
tnife and the pomace laid on the top. The
>ressurc is again applied, and the cider will
low freely. As soon as it ceases, remove the
)ressure and cut off' 4 or 5 inches of pomace
rorn the sides of the cheese, place it on top,
ind apply the pressure again as long as any
3ider will flow. 8 bushels of good apples will
make a ban-el of cider. In a day, or some-
imes less, the pomace will rise to the top,
ind in a short time grow very thick ; when
ittle white bubbles break through it, draw off
he liquor by a spigot placed about 3 inches
rom the bottom, so that the lees may be left
iuietly behind. The cider is usually put in
iarrels at once, and sold while sweet.
835. To Preserve Cider. Strictly
peaking, we suppose the sweet juice of the
CIDER.
95
apple is not cider, any more than the sweet
juice of the grape is wine. It is converted
'into cider by fermentation. Those who pre-
fer sweet cider resort to various methods for
arresting this process, such as putting a hand-
ful of powdered clay into each barrel, or 2 or
3 pounds of well burned charcoal. Others
add a little mustard seed, about a gill of seed
to each barrel. Sometimes a few gallons of
cider are placed in the barrel, and then a rag
dipped in brimstone is attached to a long ta-
pering bung; this is ignited and the bung
loosely inserted. After the brimstone is con-
sumed, the barrel is rolled until the cider has
absorbed the sulphurous acid gas. The barrel
is then filled up with cider. The sulphurous
acid gas acting on the albuminous matter in
the cider arrests fermentation. The objection
to this method is that, if too much gas is ab-
sorbed, it may prove unpleasant, if not inju-
rious. To obviate this, sulphite of lime is
now used, which has the property of checking
fermentation, making the cider perfectly clear,
and imparting an agreeable taste. "We have
tasted cider preserved in this way that was
excellent, and we have also tasted some that
was execrable ; but this may have been more
the fault of the material than of the method.
When the cider in the barrel is in a lively fer-
mentation, add as much white sugar as will
be equal to i or I pound to each gallon of
cider (according as the apples are sweet or
sour), let the fermentation proceed until the
liquid has the taste to suit, then add i ounce
of sulphite (not sulphate) of lime to each
gallon of cider ; shake well, and let it stand 3
days, and bottle for use. The sulphite should
first be dissolved in a quart or so of cider
before introducing it into the barrel of cider.
Agitate briskly and thoroughly for a few
moments, and then let the cider settle. The
fermentation will cease at once. "When, after
a few days, the cider has become clear, draw
off and bottle carefully, or remove the sedi-
ment and return to the original vessel. If
loosely corked, or kept in a barrel on draught,
it will retain its taste as a still cider. If pre-
served in bottles carefully corked, which is
better, it will become a sparkling cider, and
may be kept indefinitely long. (See Nos. 762
$c.) Some think that cider, when treated by
this method, is liable to induce cramps and
loss of appetite, but we have never experienced
any such unpleasant results from its use.
Another plan, which, however, we have not
tried, but is strongly recommended, is to mix
1 pint of hard-wood ashes (hickory is best)
and 1 pint fresh slaked lime with 1 quart of
new milk ; this mixture is to be stirred into
each open barrel of cider; after remaining
quiet for about 10 hours the pomace will rise
to the surface, and may be skimmed off; the
clear cider can be drawn off by means of a fau-
cet inserted near the bottom of the barrel ; it
is advisable to strain it as it is drawn oft', to
separate any hardened pomace that may re-
main in it. (See Nos. 852 and 853.) What-
ever method be adopted, the cider must be
drawn off into very clean, sweet casks, and
closely watched. The moment white bubbles
are perceived rising at the bung-hole, rack it
again. "When the fermentation is completely
at an end, fill up the cask with cider in all
respects like that already contained in it, and
bung it up tight. The most perfect plan for
excluding all action of the air from the sur-
face of the cider, and preserving it sweet, is
the addition of a tumbler of sweet oil before
finally closing the bung-hole. It is not an
easy matter to keep cider sweet and pure for
any length of time, especially if the weather
is warm. If the cider is not made until just
before winter sets in, and can afterwards bo
kept at or near the freezing point, it will re-
main sweet and excellent.
836. Rules for Making Good Pure
Cider. Always choose perfectly ripe and
sound fruit.
Pick the apples from the tree by hand.
Apples that have been on the ground any
length of time contract an earthy flavor,
which will always be found in the cider.
After sweating, and before being ground,
wipe them dry, and if any are found bruised
or rotten, put them in a heap by themselves,
from which to make an inferior cider for
vinegar.
As fast as the apples are ground, the pomace
should be placed in a previously prepared open
vat, of suitable size, and with a false bottom,
strainer, or clean straw aboutit. Letthepomace
remain about one day, then draw off, return
the first, and continue to do so until it runs
clear. Let the juice percolate or filter for
one or more days. The cider thus extracted
will compare closely with any clear, rich
syrup, and is alone deserving 'the name of
temperance cider, and may be drank, or used
for many purposes, as a choice and superior
article. In this way, about one-third of the
cider will separate ; the balance may then be
expressed by the use of the press.
To press out the juice, use a clean strainer
cloth inside the curb, with some clean straw
intermixed in thin layers with the pomace,
and apply the power moderately.
As the cider runs from the vat or press,
place it in a clean, sweet cask or open tub,
which should be closely watched, and as soon
as the little bubbles commence to rise at the
bung-hole or top, it should be racked off by a
spigot or faucet placed about 2 inches from
the bottom, so that the lees or sediment may
be left quietly behind.
The vinous fermentation will commence
sooner or later, depending chiefly upon the
temperature of the apartment where the
cider is kept; in most cases, during the first 3
or 4 days. If the fermentation begins early
and proceeds rapidly, the liquor must be
racked or drawn off and put into fresh casks
in 1 or 2 days ; but if this does not take place
at an early period, but proceeds slowly, three
or four days may elapse before it is racked. In
general, it is necessary to rack the liquor at
least twice. If, notwithstanding, the fermen-
tation continues briskly, the racking must he
repeated, otherwise the vinous fermentation,
by proceeding too far, may terminate in acetous
fermentation, when vinegar will be the result.
In racking off the liquor, it is necessary to
keep it free from sediment, and the scum or
yeast produced by the fermentation. "When
the fermentation is completely at an end, fill
up the cask with cider in all respects like that
contained in it, and bung it up tight, previous
to which a tumbler of sweet oil may bo
poured into the bung-hole, which will exclude
96
CIDER.
the oxygen and prevent the oxidation of the
surface of the wine.
Sound, well made cider, that has been pro-
duced as above directed, and without any
foreign mixtures, is a pleasant, cooling and
wholesome beverage ; while, on the contrary,
the acids and drugs added to already impure
liquor, retard fermentation, thus adding poison
to poison, producing colic, and notunfrequently
incurable obstructions.
837. To Make Good Fermented Cider.
To make good fermented cider that will keep
a year or more without turning too sour to be
used for anything but vinegar, is not a diffi-
cult matter. The first thing is to exclude all
decayed fruit, but it should be quite ripe.
Not a drop of water should be used in the
process of manufacture. The sweeter the
juice, the stronger the cider, and the better it
will keep. Put the ban-el immediately in a
cool cellar — the cooler the better. The fer-
mentation may go on slowly or rapidly, prac-
tice differing in this respect. In the former
case the liquid is treated in all respects like
wine. The cask has a bung in which is fixed,
air-tight, a tin tube bent at right angles, or a
piece of india-rubber tube. The free end of
the tube in either case dips into a vessel of
water. This arrangement allows the gases
liberated in fermentation to pass out, and the
end of the tube being covered with water, air
cannot pass in. The bubbling of the gas
through the water shows how the fermenta-
tion is progressing. "When this has ceased,
the cider is racked off into clean casks, which
are to be full and bunged tightly. Much of
the excellence of cider depends upon the tem-
perature at which the fermentation is con-
ducted; a point utterly overlooked by the
manufacturers of this liquor. Instead of the
apple juice, as soon as it is expressed from the
fruit, being placed in a cool situation, where
the temperature should not exceed 50° or 52°
Fahr., it is frequently left exposed to the full
heat of autumn. In this way much of the
alcohol formed by the decomposition of the
sugar is converted into vinegar, by the absorp-
tion of atmospheric oxygen, and thus the
liquor acquires that peculiar and unwhole-
some acidity known as "hardness" or
"roughness." "When, on the contrary, the
fermentation is conducted at a low tempera-
ture, nearly the whole of the sugar is con-
verted into alcohol, and this remains in the
liquor, instead of undergoing the process of
acetification.
838. To Make Fine Cider by An-
other Process. After obtaining the juice
as already directed (see No. 836), strain it
through a coarse hair-sieve into open vats or
close casks. "When the liquor has undergone
the proper fermentation in these close vessels,
which may be best effected in a temperature
of from 40° to 55° Fahr., and which may be
known by its appearing tolerably clear, and hav-
ing a vinous sharpness upon the tongue, any
further fermentation must be stopped by rack-
ing off the pure part into open vessels, exposed
for a day or two in a cool situation. After
this the liquor must again be put into casks
and kept in a cool place during winter. The
E roper time for racking may always be known
y the brightness of the liquor, the discharge
of the fixed air, and the appearance of a thick
crust formed of fragments of the reduced
pulp. The liquor should always be racked
off anew, as often as a hissing noise is heard,
or as it extinguishes a lighted match held to
the bung-hole. "When a favorable vinous
fermentation has been obtained, nothing more
is required than to fill up the vessels every
two or three weeks, to supply the waste by
fermentation. By the beginning of March
the liquor will be bright and pure, and fit for
final racking, which should be done iu fair
weather. "When the bottles are filled, they
should be set by, uncorked, till morning, when
the corks must be driven in tightly, secured
by wire or twine and melted resin, or any
similar substance.
839. To Prepare Casks for Cider.
Cider should never be put into new casks
without previously scalding them with water
containing salt, or with water in which pomace
has been boiled. Beer casks should never be
used for cider, or cider casks for beer. "Wine
and brandy casks will keep cider well, if the
tartar adhering to their sides is first carefully
scraped off and the casks be well scalded.
Burning a little sulphur in a cask will effectu-
ally remove must.
840. Canned Cider. Cider may be pre-
served sweet for years, by putting it up in
air-tight cans after the manner of preserving
fruit. The cider should be first settled and
racked off from the dregs, but fermentation
should not be allowed to commence before
canning.
841. To Cleanse Cider Barrels. Take
lime water and a trace chain and put them in
the barrel through the bung-hole, first secur-
ing a strong twine to the chain to draw it out
with. Then shake the barrel about until the
chain wears or scours off all mould or pomace
remaining in the barrel. Then rinse well with
water; after throwing out the rinsing water
put in a little whiskey, turning the ban-el to
bring it in contact wi'th every part, and pour
out all you can.
842. To Clarify and Improve Cider.
Cider should be stored in a cool place, and
should not be drunk before it becomes suffi-
ciently matured. To improve the flavor of a
hogshead of cider, 1£ gallons of good brandy
or rum are frequently added, with 2 ounces
powdered catechu (dissolved in water), 7
pounds good moist sugar or honey, •£ ounce
each bitter almonds and cloves, and 4 ounces
mustard seed. These must be well stirred in,
and occasionally stirred up for a fortnight,
after which it must be allowed to repose for
3 or 4 months, when it will usually be found
as bright as wine. Should this not be the
case it must be fined with a pint of isinglass
finings, or a dozen eggs, and in 2 weeks more
it will be fit for use. If the cider be preferred
pale, omit the catechu, and instead of the isin-
glass, fine with 1 quart of skimmed milk. If
wanted of a light reddish or rose tint, use $
ounce cochineal, and omit the catechu.
843. To Bottle Cider. Preparatory to
bottling cider it should' be examined to see
whether it is clear and sparkling; if not, it
should be clarified again, and left for two
weeks. The night before it is intended to be
put into bottles, the bung should be left out
of the cask, and left so until the next day,
when it may be bottled, but not corked down
BREWING.
97
an til the day after, as, if this be done at once,
many of the bottles will burst by keeping.
The best corks and champagne bottles should
be used, and it is usual to wire and cover the
corks with tin-foil, after the manner of cham-
pagne. A few bottles may be kept in a warm
place to ripen, or a small piece of lump sugar
may be put into each bottle before corking, if
wanted for immediate use, or for consumption
during the cooler portion of the year ; but for
warm weather and for long keeping this is
inadmissable. The bottled stock should be
stored in a cool cellar, where the quality will
be greatly improved by age.
844. Champagne Cider. Good cider,
pale, 1 hogshead ; spirit, 3 gallons ; honey or
sugar, 20 pounds. Mix and let them rest
for 2 weeks, then fine with skimmed milk,
•J gallon. This will be very pale; and a
similar article, when bottled in champagne
bottles, and silvered and labeled, has been
often sold to the ignorant for champagne. It
opens very brisk if managed properly.
845. Fine Champagne Cider is made
as follows : — To 100 gallons of good cider put
3 gallons of strained honey, or 24 pounds of
good white sugar. Stir well and set it aside
for a week. Clarify the cider with half a gal-
lon of skimmed milk, or i pound of dissolved
isinglass, and add 4 gallons of pure spirits.
After 2 or 3 days bottle the clear cider, and it
will become sparkling. In order to produce
a slow fermentation, the casks containing the
fermenting liquor must be bunged up tight.
It is a great object to retain much of the car-
bonic gas in the cider, so as to develop itself
after being bottled.
846. Champagne Cider. (Another re-
ceipt.) 10 gallons of cider, old and clear.
Put it in a strong iron-bound cask, pitched
inside (like beer-casks) ; add 2i pints clarified
white plain syrup ; then dissolve in it 5 ounces
tartaric acid ; keep the bung ready in hand,
then add 7-J- ounces of bicarbonate of potassa ;
bung it as quickly and as well as possible.
847. To Imitate Champagne Cider.
Cider will resemble champagne if you put
a tea-spoonful carbonate of soda, 2 tea-spoon-
fuls fine sugar, and a table- spoonful brandy in
a tumbler, and fill it up with sharp cider.
848. How to Imitate Cider. A very
fair imitation cider may be produced by using
the following receipt : — 25 gallons soft water ;
2 pounds tartaric acid; 25 pounds N"ew Or-
leans sugar ; 1 pint yeast. Put all the ingre-
dients into a clean cask and stir them up well
after standing 24 hours with the bung out.
Then bung the cask up tight, add 3 gallons
spirits, and let it stand 48 hours, after which
time it will be ready for use.
849. To Imitate Sweet Cider. Take
water, 100 gallons ; honey, 5 gallons ; catechu
powdered, 3 ounces ; alum, 5 ounces ; yeast, 2
pints. Ferment for 15 days in a warm place
(in the sun if possible); then add bitter
almonds, i pound; cloves, h pound; burnt
sugar, 2 pints ; whiskey, 3 gallons. If acid
be in excess, correct by adding honey or
sugar. If too sweet, add sulphuric acid to
suit the taste. We should prefer to add cider
vinegar for acidulating when necessary.
850. Cheap Imitatipn Cider. Take
water, 35 gallons ; sulphuric acid, enough to
make the water pleasantly sour ; brown sugar,
50 pounds ; alum, 4 ounces ; ginger, 5 ounces ;
cloves, 5 ounces; bitter almonds, 6 ounces.
Boil the last 4 ingredients in 2 gallons of the
water for 2 hours, strain, and add, this decoc-
tion to the other water. Burnt sugar may be
added, to color, if wished. From 3 to 4 gal-
lons of whiskey, if mixed with it, will give
more body. It is generally known, we sup-
pose, that bisulphite of lime may be advan-
tageously employed in fresh cider to stop its
conversion to vinegar. (See No. 835.)
85 1 . Cheap-made Cider. Take of good
cider and water, 1 hogshead each ; molasses,
50 pounds ; alum, dissolved, i pound. Brim-
stone matches to stop fermentation, by burning.
852. To Keep Cider Sweet. Allow
the cider to work until it has reached the state
most desirable to the taste, then add Ik tum-
blers grated horseradish to each barrel, and
shake up well. This arrests further fermenta-
tion. After remaining a few weeks, rack off
and bung up closely in clean casks.
853. To Clear Cider. To clear and
improve cider generally, take 2 quarts of
ground horseradish and 1 pound of thick
gray filtering paper to the barrel, and either
shake or stir until the paper has separated
into small shreds, and let it stand for 24
hours, when the cider may be drawn off by
means of a syphon or a stop-cock. Instead of
paper, a preparation of wool may be taken,
which is to be had in the market here, and
which is preferable to paper, as it has simply
to be washed with water, when it may be used
again.
854. To Clean a Foul, Sour Cask, and
Restore the Taste of the Wood. In
order to accomplish this, dissolve about 1£
pounds lime in 5 gallons boiling water. Rinse
the cask to be restored with this liquid, and
afterwards with boiling water. If the cask
is very foul, it should also be rinsed with very
dilute sulphuric acid after the lime water, and
afterwards with boiling water. As a general
thing, however, the lime water and boiling
water are sufficient. To restore the natural
taste of the wood, mash up in a mortar a
handful of juniper berries and put them in the
tainted cask, then pour over them several gal-
lons boiling water, roll the cask violently, and
set it first on one end, and then upon the
other.
855. To Make Barrels Tight. Dis-
solve in a water-bath 1 pound leather scraps
and 1 ounce oxalic acid, in 2 pounds water,
and dilute gradually with 3 pounds warm
water. Apply this solution to the inside of
the barrel, where, by oxidation, it will assume
a brown color and become insoluble in alco-
hol. This coat closes all the pores of the
wood, and does not crack or scale off.
Brewing. The art of brewing is
simply and easily understood, clean-
liness and attention being the principal points
to be considered. It consists of five opera-
tions, namely : mashing, boiling, cooling, fer-
menting, and cleaning. The first process is
simply to obtain an infusion of the malt. In
the second, this infusion of malt is further
impregnated with the flavor of the hops in
the boiling, which is requisite for the preser-
98
BREWING.
vation of the beer. In the third, this decoc-
tion or infusion is cooled down to the necessary
heat for fermentation, -which is excited with
yeast, and .which fills it with carbonic gas,
giving to the liquor that pungent taste for
which it is esteemed. After this it is fined,
or cleansed, to render it fit for drinking.
857. Brewing Utensils. These uten-
sils in a small way (say for a hogshead, or 54
gallons of beer ), will consist of a copper capable
of containing about 70 gallons ; and if the
brick edge at the top is made sloping, and
covered with lead, it will prevent any waste
of the wort in the boiling. A mash tub, with
a false bottom about 3 inches above the other
bottom, bored full of small holes, to prevent
the malt stopping up the hole of the faucet.
In many cases, for the sake of economy, an
old worn-out birch-broom is cleaned and
fastened before the hole of the faucet; and
others again have two pieces of wood nailed
together, and bored full of holes, which is
fitted to the side of the tub, so as to cover
the hole of the faucet. Any one of these
contrivances is to prevent the malt or grains
from flowing out with the wort, which would
spoil its transparency. The tub must be suffi-
ciently large to hold 10 or 12 bushels of malt,
with plenty of room for mashing or stirring.
An underback, to receive the wort from the
mash tub. An oar, or rudder, to stir up the
malt in the mash tub. Two or three coolers.
These should be broad and flat, that the wort
may cool quickly ; for if the wort is too long
cooling, it is likely to become sour in the
coolers. These should also be raised a little
at one end, that the wort may be run off at
the lower end without being disturbed or
shaken, and also that the sediment which falls
down may not be again mixed with the wort.
A fermenting tun. The mash-tub, when
emptied of the grains, will also serve for this
purpose. Casks, and oak stands for the casks
and tubs to be placed on. The whole of these
articles should be of a suitable size with the
copper, which the cooper will always regulate,
or m proportion to the quantity intended to be
brewed.
858. Mashing. The purpose of mash-
ing is to convert as much of the flour of the
malt as possible into sugar, so that the extract
drawn from it may contain the greatest
amount of saccharine matter which it is capa-
ble of giving. To accomplish this perfectly
will depend upon many contingencies — the
heat of the water used in mashing, its quality,
whether hard or soft, the most perfect mixing
of the malt with the water, and the time of
their remaining together. High-dried malt
does not produce so much saccharine matter
as pale malt. On the proper temperature of
the liquor used will depend the goodness,
flavor, and clearness of the extract drawn.
When too high, or near the boiling point,
the flour of the malt will be set, form-
ing a kind of paste or starch, and the extract
obtained will be little better than water. The
surface of the grains after the mashing process
is concluded will be covered with specks of
•white meal. The same appearance also shows
itself when unmalted corn has been mixed
with the malt. If the temperature be too
low, the wort will be poor and devoid of
strength, because the heat of the water is not
sufficient to convert the flour of the malt into
sugar, or to extract the saccharine matter
from it. For pale malt the heat of the wa-
ter must be higher than for brown, and so
much the lower in proportion as the malt is
browner. Thus, for the pale malt, the heat
of the water for the first mash should be 178°
Fahr.; for the second, 182°. Pale and amber
mixed, or pale malt approaching to amber,
172° for the first mash ; second, 178°. All
amber, the first 170° ; second, 176°. For
very brown, or brown malt, such as is used
for porter, 154° for the first; second, 164°.
When hard water is used, the heat in each
case should be about 2° less. An equal por-
tion of pale, amber, and brown, or half pale
and half brown — first heat, 160° ; second,
166°. The time for the standing of the mash
is from an hour and a half to two hours?. In
the summer months the mash should not
stand so long by a quarter of an hour as it
does in the winter. Heat the water in the
copper to the required degree by Fahrenheit's
thermometer. In taking the heat in the cop-
per, if it is too hot, add cold liquor to bring it
to the desired degree; but be careful to stir
the hot and cold well together and mix it in-
timately, because the cold water, being heav-
ier than the hot, sinks to the bottom. The
heat of the water being now reduced to the
proper degree in the tun, the malt must be
stirred in gradually. It is best for one person
to throw it in whilst another mixes it well
and thoroughly by means of the oar, so that
there may be no lumps or clots of malt left
hi it. The remainder of the water should be
added by degrees, as the mash becomes too
stiff to stir, until the whole is used. Reserve
about i bushel of the malt to throw over the
top when the mashing is finished. Cover the
top of the tun with malt-sacks or cloths, to
keep in the heat, and let it stand the. required
time. Turn the tap partially, to allow the
wort to run out slowly, and draw off some in
a pail or bucket. As the first running will
not be clear, it must be put gently back into
the tun ; and if the second running is not
sufficiently clear, turn the tap again, and let
it remain a few minutes before drawing it off;
then turn the tap partially as before, and
draw it off into the underback, which must be
placed underneath to receive it. As the wort
runs out more slowly, the tap must be turned
more fully, until the whole is nearly run out,
and the bed of the grains looks dry ; then
turn the tap, to prevent any more running
off. While the mash is standing, the copper
should be again filled with water, and heated
to the required degree for the second mash; this
should be ready by the time the first wort is
drawn off; then, with a bowl or ladle, pour
over the top of the grains, as gently as possible,
about half as much water as for the first;
cover the mash-tun, let it remain about ten
minutes or a quarter of an hour, and draw it
off as before, pouring back the first running
until it is fine. The wort from the first
mashing is always the best and richest in
saccharine or sweet matter. The proportion
of wort to be obtained from each bushel of
malt depends entirely on the proposed strength
of the liquor required. To ale or beer of a
superior kind the produce only of the first
mashing should be used. For ordinary or
BREWING.
99
usual drinking ale, take the produce of the
first and second mashings, mix them well,
and ascertain the gravity by a saccharometer.
This is an instrument used by brewers for as-
certaining the strength of wort ; it is similar
in principle to the hydrometer, but its scale
denotes the pounds per barrel m excess of the
weight of a barrel of water. The barrel or
36 gallons of water weighs 360 pounds ; and,
in examining a quantity of wort, if the sac-
charometer marks 60, it means that a barrel
(36 gallons) of the wort would weigh 60 pounds
more than a barrel of water, or 420 pounds.
It is a sort of specific gravity, in which 360
is the unit instead of 1000 ; from which it
can be seen that a saccharometer gravity of
420, as compared with 360, would be the same
as 1166$ true specific gravity as compared with
1000. Some brewers express the strength of
their wort by the whole weight of a barrel,
others use only the excess of weight ; thus, in
the example above, some would call it wort
of 420 pounds, others would say 60 pounds ;
either way is plain; the figures showing
which plan is adopted. The usual limit for
ale or beer is from 50 to 60 pounds, and for
a very strong ale from 90 to 120 pounds
per barrel. That made at the first gravity
will be a brisk, lively and sparkling drink;
but the last will be more heavy and glutinous,
and can only be imperfectly fermented.
859. Boiling. As soon as the water is
taken from the copper for the table-beer,
damp the fire with ashes or cinders, and put
in the wort. For every bushel of malt used,
allow 1 pound hops, previously soaked in wa-
ter taken from the first mash at 160° of heat ;
add half of them at first, and the other
half after the wort has boiled half an hour.
2 pounds of hops by this method are consid-
ered to be equal to 3 pounds used in the
ordinary way. The water in which they are
steeped is strained off and put into the tun
instead of the copper, which preserves the
flavor of the hops. Let the wort boil as
briskly as possible, for the quicker it is boiled
the sooner it will break. Try it occasionally
in a glass, and see if it has separated into
large flakes ; if it has not, boil it a little
longer ; when nearly ready, it will appear to
be broken into fine particles. The extremes
of under and over-boiling must be avoided,
for when over-boiled it is with difficulty fined
again in the casks.
860. Cooling. When the wort is ready,
damp the fire, and draw it off into the cool-
ers, keeping the hops well stirred to prevent
their being burnt to the bottom ; strain it
through a hair-sieve to take off the hops.
The coolers should be as shallow as possible,
that the wort may not be too long in cooling,
or it may chance to get sour, and should be of
the same depth in each, that it may cool
equally. "When the first wort is drawn off,
return the hops again into the boiler, with the
wort for the table-beer, and -let it boil
quickly for one hour and a half; and if
1 pound coarse sugar or molasses, and 1
ounce salt, be added to every 10 gallons wort
in the boiling, it will be much improved.
When the wort has been cooled down to 75
or 80 degrees of heat by the thermometer
(this will depend on the state of the atmos-
phere, fjpr when the weather is warm it should
be cooler), draw it off into the fermenting
tun, without disturbing tbe sediment at the
bottom, which gives the ale or beer a dis-
agreeable taste. This is always observed by
the Scotch brewers, but others consider that
it feeds the beer, which it certainly does, and
always use it ; for whether it is the oleagin-
ous quality of the hops, or the gluten ex-
tracted from the malt, which is precipitated
by the boiling, it cannot be of any injury to
the wort. If it is the first, it is of essential
service to give the full flavor of the hops.
In each case it will be thrown off in the
working.
861 . Fermentation. 3 pints good white
fresh yeast will be about the quantity required
to work a hogshead of beer ; but in larger
brewings this will depend on the quantity
there is in a body, the gravity, and heat of
the atmosphere — thus, the lower the gravity,
the greater the bulk, and the warmer the
weather, the less yeast must be used in pro-
portion to work it, and vice versa. 3 pints
being sufficient for a hogshead, a gallon will
work 4 or 5 hogsheads in a body of the same
gravity. First mix the yeast with a gallon
or two of the wort, and a handful or two of
bean or wheat flour in the fermenting tun ;
when the fermentation is brisk, pour over
another portion, and as soon as the wort is at
the proper degree of temperature run . it into
the tun, reserving out some of the ferment, to
feed the beer as occasion may require. When
it becomes languid, or if there is sufficient
yeast in, it may be left out altogether. The
fermentation should be gradual at first ; for if
it goes on too quickly the beer is likely to
become foxed, that is, to have a rank and dis-
agreeable taste. The next morning the beer
should have a thin white creamy head ; then,
with a bowl or ladle, well rouse and mix it
together. If, however, the fermentation has
not been favorable, add some of the ferment ;
and if rather cold, wrap some sacks or old
carpet round the tun, and place some more
sacks over the top ; also keep the door and
windows closed. Or take a clean cask (the
size according to the quantity of the gyle, or
brewing), and fill it full o'f boiling liquor;
bung it close, and put in the tun. In the
evening rouse the head well in again ; the
next morning the beer should have what is
termed a cauliflower-head ; remove with the
skimmer any patches of dark-brown yeast,
and mix it well up together again. After the
yeast has risen to the top, it will form a thick
yeasty appearance, which should be skimmed
off as soon as it is inclined to fall. A portion
should then be taken out, tried with the sac-
charometer, and noted. If not sufficiently
fermented, it should be tried every two hours
until it is so, and the head may be skimmed
off at the same time. When sufficiently re-
duced, cleanse it into the casks.
862. Cleansing. In cleansing ale or
beer, the yeast should be skimmed from the
top, and the liquor drawn off gently, so as
not to disturb the bottoms. The casks
should be plugged a little on one side, that
the yeast may work and discharge itself at
the bung-hole. A tub or pan must be placed
underneath to receive the yeast as it works
over. The greatest attention should be paid
to the filling up of the casks with the wort
10O
BEE WING.
that is left, which should be done every half
hour at first, ana as the working becomes
more slow, every 3 or 4 hours, that the yeast
may continue to discharge itself, otherwise it
will fall to the bottom, and render the beer
harsh and unpleasant, and liable to be excited
on every change of the weather ; but by at-
tending to these precautions, this will be
avoided, and the working of the beer will be
sooner over. When the yeast has ceased to
discharge itself, plug the casks upright, mix
a pound of the best hops with some old ale or
beer, and scald them in it over the fire. If
the ale or beer is required to be drunk soon,
this mixture should be added warm, otherwise
add it when cold. Mix it well into the cask
by means of a long stick, and bung the cask
close ; make a spile-hole near the bung, and
put in a spile rather loosely at first, and after
two or three days knock it in firmly.
863. Important Hints on Brewing.
Small beer will require rather more yeast to
work it than strong beer or ale. A portion of
the wort at the temperature of 85 degrees
should be mixed at first with the yeast.
When the fermentation has commenced, the
rest of the wort may be run into the tun at
the heat of 75 degrees. It will not work so
long nor so stoongly as ale, and may be casked
the next day. Attend to the filling of the
cask as directed for ale. In about two days
the fermentation will have subsided, and the
cask should then be bunged close. The fer-
mentation will always show whether the
degrees of heat have been well taken, and the
extract well made. If too high, the air-blad-
ders on the head will be about as large as a
dollar piece. If too low, there will be few or
no bladders, or very small ones ; but when
well taken they will be in size about that of a
2 cent piece. The proportions of hops used
for beer should be in accordance with the
time it is to be kept. If for immediate use, 3
pounds will be sufficient for a coomb of malt
(4 bushels). From 1 to 2 years, 4 pounds ;
old beer, 5 or 6 pounds. The same if the
wort is very rich ; or in proportion to its
gravity use more hops, because beer or ale
made from rich wort is always intended for
long keeping. In general, 4 or 5 pounds of
hops per coomb (4 bushels) is used for ales ;
but for porter, 5 or 6 pounds, and for bitter
ale, about 8 or 10 pounds; but in all cases
care should be taken that the hops are of the
best quality. The private brewer will find
about i pound of raspings of quassia equiva-
lent to 6 pounds of hops for preserving ale
and imparting a pleasant bitter. Beer brewed
for immediate use may be made from all pale
malt, as it is more readily fermented than that
from the browner sorts. It will not keep so
well, and may be brewed almost in the hot-
test weather, as it need not be cooled below
70 or 75 degrees. A mixture of pale and
amber malt should always be used for keeping
beer, and the wort cooled down to 60 or 70
degrees before it is put into a state of fermen-
tation ; hence, from Autumn to Spring, or the
months of October to March, have ever been
deemed the most favorable months for brew-
ing the best malt liquor, the former being
considered the most fitted, as the beer has so
many cold months immediately succeeding,
for it to ripen and grow fine in ; besides, it
does not want such watching and tending as
;he March beer does, in putting in and taking
out the spile or peg on every change of the
weather. The proportion of wort to be
obtained from every bushel of malt will de-
pend entirely on the proposed strength of the
iquor required. For ale or beer of a superior
dnd, the produce of the first mashing only
should be used ; but if the ordinary or usual
driking ale is wanted, take the produce of the
irst and second mashings, and use the third
br table beer.
864. Flavoring Beer. There are sev-
ral simple and innoxious articles which can
3e used for this purpose by the private brewer —
namely, Spanish liquorice, liquorice root, car-
damom and caraway seeds, and dried orange
peel powdered ; these are very excellent when
ised judiciously. Honey is also an excellent
assistant to beer and ale ; about 2 pounds to
a quarter (8 bushels) of malt being put into
the copper just before the wort is turned out,
or long enough to melt and incorporate with
the mass. The same plan should be adopted
with everything used for this purpose — that
is, throwing it in when the wort is at the full
boiling point, for then it will not fall to the
bottom without mixing. When, however,
Spanish liquorice is used, it will be necessary
to tie it in a net bag and suspend it. Salt and
ground ginger, or salt and any other spice, are
excellent for cleansing beer.
865. Porter Brewing for Families.
To make this beverage, three sorts of malt
are required, namely : pale, brown, and blown
malt. The peculiar flavor of this liquor is
given by the brown and blown malt, and no
other material or ingredient whatever is re-
quired different from other sorts of beer.
The mixture of malt may be composed of
half pale or amber, and half brown malt ; or,
take for a hogshead, 4 bushels of pale or
amber malt, 2 of brown, and 14 pounds of
patent blown malt, and 6 pounds of the best
brown hops. These proportions will make
excellent porter, but the following may be
used for a second-rate quality : — 2^ bushels of
amber, 1£ bushels of brown malt, and 4
?ounds of hops, with sufficient burnt sugar
see No. 694) to give the desired color; or it
may be brewed with all amber malt, using
blown malt, or sugar coloring, instead of
the brown malt. The water for mashing
must be lower than for beer or ale, and be
reduced to 164 or 166 degrees for the first
mash, according to the instructions already
laid down. All the processes are conducted
the same as for beer or ale, with this ex-
ception, that blown malt is boiled with the
wort in a copper, and the second malt, if
boiled separate, should be boiled violently
for 2 or 3 hours ; and as there is generally
but one quality of porter, the two kinds of
wort are run together into the tun. 28 gal-
lons of cold water may be run into the tun
for table porter, which should be managed
as table beer. If the color is not sufficiently
high it may be heightened by using a pound
of ^Spanish liquorice with the wort in the
boiler, or by the addition of burnt sugar (Car-
amel, see No. 694.)
866. Hints on Fermentation. The
fermentation of beer or ale is a very import-
ant part of the process of brewing. The
BREWING.
101
quantity of extract obtained from the mail
depends greatly upon the heat of the water
used for mashing, and on the mashing process
being properly conducted ; but whether thai
extract be rich or poor, the flavor of the beer
or ale, and its ultimate success in the cellar
depends upon the wort being properly anc
sufficiently fermented in the tun and casks
Fermentation increases the heat and de-
creases the gravity of the wort, altering
altogether its original character by a decom-
position of its parts, or a conversion of ife
saccharine principle into alcohol, which gives
to it that vinous pungency for which it is
esteemed. If the fermentation is not carried
far enough, the abundant sweet principle oi
the wort will not be sufficiently changed to
give it the necessary vinous taste, and it will
be sickly and cloying, deficient of strength,
and liable to become ropy. When the fer-
mentation is carried too far in the tun, the
vinous flavor is partly lost ; and if still lower,
the yeast becomes, as it were, fixed in it,
from the ale or beer having lost its natural
energy to throw it off, and it will have a flat,
stale, and disagreeable taste. Fretting (see
No. 757) then ensues in the cask, and from
being deficient of body it soon becomes sour,
unless speedily drunk. All beer for keeping
should be fermented in the tun to about one-
fourth its original gravity, in a temperature
of the gyle not exceeding 70 degrees. Light-
er beer about one-third ; but in no case
should it be allowed to reach so far as one-
half. In winter, the fermentation of weak
beer must not be carried quite so far as in the
summei, as more unfermented matter must
be left to nourish it in the cask during the
cold weather, which will counteract its ripen-
ing. Some allowance should also be made
for the time the ale or beer is intended to be
kept. Strong wort will bear a greater pro-
portionate fermentation than weak wort, and
consequently be stronger and more sparkling.
Beer of this kind, intended to be kept, should
be fermented so low as to ensure transparency
and softness, with a proper degree of strength,
for it will have time to bring itself round.
Still, care must be taken to leave a sufficient
quantity of unfermented matter for the supply
of the gradual decomposition, the quantity
left being proportionate to the time the beer
is intended to be kept. Wort of 50 or 60 de-
grees gravity (see No. 858) will keep well for
2 or 3 years, if reduced to two-fifths, or at least
one-fourth. Ale is not fermented so much as
beer, therefore a considerable portion of the
saccharine matter still remains in the liquid,
apparently unaltered. In conducting this
process, both the thermometer and saccharo-
meter must be the guide ; — the last is indis-
pensable. The results given by these should
be carefully noted in a book kept for the
purpose, with the heat of the atmosphere at
the time the observations are made, which
will serve as a guide for any future brewing.
As soon as the head forms a brown, thick,
yeasty appearance, and is inclined to fall, it
must be immediately skimmed off. Particular
attention must be paid to this point. It is at
all times better to skim it before it begins to
drop, than allow it to pass again through the
beer, which will give it a rank, disagreeable
taste, termed "yeast bitten;" neither will it
fine well in the cask. After the head is
skimmed off, a portion should then be taken
out, tried by the saccharometer, and noted ;
and if it is not sufficiently fermented it should
be roused well up, and skimmed every two
hours until the required gravity is nearly at-
tained, when it should be watched with the
greatest attention, and cleansed with a little
salt and bean-flour, and any other flavoring
ingredient may then be added, such as ground
ginger, cardamom, caraway seeds, &c., and
well mixed with it immediately it is reduced
to the desired point.
867. The Acetous Fermentation may
arise from premature fermentation, through
the mashing heat being taken too low, when it
may commence in the tun, underback, or
coolers. If in the mash tun, the wort will
ferment very rapidly, and produce a large
quantity of yeast; but of course the liquor
will be soured, therefore less yeast will be
required to ferment it. When the first
mash is affected, all the subsequent ones
will share the same fate, and no extra quantity
of hops or boiling that may be given to it will
restore it to a sound condition. It may also
arise from the mashing heat being taken too
high. When this is the case, the fermenta-
tion is languid, the yeast head is very low, and
appears brown or fiery, accompanied with a
hissing noise, and occasionally it will appear
as if boiling. A larger quantity of yeast than
usual is necessary to be added to wort of this
description, to force the fermentation, and to
discharge the yeast freely, in order that as
little as possible may remain in the liquor,
which would otherwise fret and become sour.
The acetous fermentation may also arise from
premature fermentation, either in the under-
back or coolers ; hence, fretting ensues, and
the liquor continually generates acidity.
868. To Correct Acidity in Beer.
Acidity in beer may be neutralized by chalk,
lime, alkalies, &c.; but it cannot be totally
destroyed without spoiling the liquor.
869. Bittern. This is an adulterating
mixture employed by brewers to impart a
false bitter and strength to their liquors. Boil
4 parts Spanish liquorice in sufficient water
until dissolved, and evaporate to the consist-
ence of cream. Then add to it 1 part extract
of quassia, 1 part powdered sulphate of iron,
2 parts extract of cocculus indicus, and 8 parts
molasses.
870. Bitter Balls. These are used as a
fraudulent substitute for hops in making beer,
and are different in composition, to suit dif-
ferent kinds of malt liquor.
For ale : 2 pounds powdered gentian, and 1
pound extract of gentian, mixed with suffi-
cient molasses to make a paste. Divide into ^
pound rolls.
For pale ale : 1 pound crude picric acid, 3i
lounds ground chamomiles, and i pound grains
of Paradise, mixed with syrup.
For porter or stout: either of the above,
with the addition of Ik pounds Spanish li-
quorice softened with a little boiling water.
871. Fining for Ale or Beer. It fre-
quently happens that malt liquor, especially
sorter, with all the care bestowed upon it in
jrewing, will not turn out sufficiently fine to
meet the taste and eye of the consumer, in
which case it is usually subjected to the ope-
1O2
BREWING.
ration of clarifying. For this purpose 1 ounce
isinglass is put into 1 quart weak vinegar, or
still better, hard beer, and when dissolved, a
sufficient quantity of good beer may be added
to make it measure 1 gallon. This mixture
is called finings, 1 to 2 pints of which is the
proper quantity for a barrel. The method of
using it, is to put the finings into a bucket,
and to gradually add some of the beer, until
the bucket is three parts full, during which
time it is violently agitated with a whisk, and
this is continued until a good frothy head is
raised upon it, when it is thrown into the
barrel of beer, and the whole well stirred up,
by means of a large stick shoved in at the
bung-hole. In a few days the beer will usual-
ly become fine.
872. To Ascertain Whether Malt
Liquor may be Clarified by Fining. In
some bad sorts of beer, isinglass will have no
effect. This may be ascertained beforehand,
by trying some in a long glass tube, or vial,
with a little of the finings. These should be
well shaken together, and then set aside for a
short time, when it will be found that the
finings will rise to the top, leaving the central
portion of the beer clear, if it be in a proper
condition for clarifying; but if, on the con-
trary, they sink to the bottom, and the liquor
still keeps foul, no quantity of finings, how-
ever great, will ever clarify it.
873. To Clarify Obstinate Ale. This
latter defect may be remedied by proceeding
to fine it after the manner above described,
and then adding, after the finings have been
well rummaged up, either 1 spoonful oil of
vitriol or gum catechu, dissolved in £ pint
warm water, again stirring well for a quarter
of an hour. Or 1 or 2 ounces tincture of
catechu may be used instead, mixed with a
little water. Either of these additions acts
chemically on the finings, in the same way as
good beer does, precipitating them along with
the foulness, and thus brightening the liquor.
The addition of a handful of hops, previously
boiled for 5 minutes in a little of the beer,
and then added to the barrel, and the whole
allowed to stand for a few days, before pro-
ceeding to clarify it, will generally have the
same effect.
874. To Ripen Beer. The addition of
a small lump of white sugar to each bottle of
ale or beer, and a tea-spoonful of moist sugar
to each bottle of porter at the time of corking,
will render it fit lor drinking in a few days in
ordinary weather. A raisin or lump of sugar
candy is often added to each bottle with a
like intention. The Parisians bottle their
beer one day, and sell it the next. For this
purpose, in addition to the sugar as above,
they add 2 or 3 drops of yeast. Such bottled
liquor must, however, be drank within a
week, or else stored in a very cold place, as it
will otherwise burst the bottles, or blow out
the corks.
875. To Give Beer the Appearance
of Age. The addition of a very little diluted
sulphuric acid to new beer will give it the ap-
pearance of being 1 or 2 years old. Copperas,
alum, sliced lemons, oranges, and cucumbers,
are also frequently employed by brewers for
the same purpose.
876. Beer Heading. Alum and green
copperas equal parts, both in fine powder;
mix. Or, alum, copperas, and common salt,
of each equal parts ; mix. Used by brewers
to make their beer keep its head.
877. To Remedy Mustiness in Beer.
To each hogshead add 1 pound new hops
boiled in a gallon of the liquor, along with 7
pounds newly-burnt charcoal coarsely bruised,
and a 4 pound loaf of bread cut into slices
and toasted rather black ; rouse well every
day for one week, then stir in moist sugar 3
or 4 pounds, and bung down for 2 weeks.
878. To Remedy Flatness in Beer.
Stir a few pounds of moist sugar into each
hogshead ; fermentation will ensue in a few
days, and the liquor become brisk. On the
small scale, the addition of & few grains car-
bonate of soda or prepared chalk to each glass
will make the liquor brisk and carry a head ;
but it must be drunk within a few minutes,
else it becomes again flat. This is an excel-
lent method when home-brewed beer becomes
sour and vapid.
879. To Recover Frosted Beer.
Frosted beer is best recovered by the addition
of a few hops boiled in a little sweet wort ; or
by adding a little moist sugar or molasses to
induce a fresh fermentation.
880. Foxing or Bucking Beer. Add
some fresh hops, along with some braised
mustard seed, to the beer. Some persons add
a little made mustard, or solution of alum or
catechu, or a little diluted sulphuric acid, and
stir it well ; and in a week or 10 days after-
wards, further add some bean-flour, molasses,
or moist sugar.
881. To Remedy Ropiness in Beer.
Add a little infusion of catechu and some
fresh hops to the beer, and in a fortnight stir
well, and the next day fine it down.
882. German Beer Bouquet. ^Accord-
ing to Dr. Boettger, this liquor consists of a
solution of the essential oil of lemons in light
petroleum oil, and a coarse fusel oil, containing
spirit colored by turmeric.
883. Spring Beer. Boil down 3 small
bunches each of sweet fern, sarsaparilla, win-
tergreen, sassafras, prince pine, spice wood,
in 8 gallons water to 6 gallons of decoction
or extract; strain; 4 gallons of water boiled
down to 3 gallons of decoction, with £ pound
hops ; strain ; mix the two extracts or decoc-
tions together ; dissolve in them 1 gallon of
molasses, and, when cooled to 80° heat, 1-J-
pound of roasted bread soaked in fresh
brewers' yeast ; fill up a 10-gallon keg ; when
fermentation is over mix with it the white of
1 egg beaten to froth; bung it, and bottle
when clear.
884. Spruce Beer. Boil 9| gallons of
water; let it cool down to 80° Fahr., and then
dissolve 9 pounds of sugar in it, having pre-
viously mixed with it 1 ounce of essence of
spruce; then add 1 'pint of good brewers'
yeast, and pour it in a 10-gallon keg until fer-
mentation is over; then add a handful of
brick powder and the white of 2 eggs beaten
to a froth ; mix with the beer, and let it stand
till clear, then bottle.
885. To Make White Spruce Beer.
Dissolve 10 pounds loaf sugar in 10 gallons
boiling water, add 4 ounces essence of spruce ;
when nearly cold add i pint yeast. Keep in
a warm place. Next day strain through
flannel, put into bottles and wire the corks.
BEE WING.
103
886. To Make Wood's Spruce Beer.
Boil £ pint essence of spruce, 5 ounces each
of bruised pimento and ginger, and 5 or 6
ounces hops in 3 gallons water for 10 minutes.
Then add 3 quarts molasses and 11 gallons
warm water. When lukewarm add 1 pint
yeast ; ferment for 24 hours and bottle, as in
last receipt. This will also make a white
beer by substituting an equivalent of loaf
sugar instead of the molasses.
887. To Make Spruce Beer. Take
2 ounces each hops and chips of sassafras
root, 10 gallons water ; boil twenty minutes,
strain, and turn on, while hot, 1 gallon good
molasses, and add 2 table-spoonfuls each
essence of ginger and essence of spruce ; 1
table- spoonful pounded allspice. Put into a
cask, and when cold enough add 1 quart
yeast ; let it stand 24 hours ; draw it off or
bottle it.
888. Essence of Spruce. Take of the
young branches of black spruce (abies nigra),
make a decoction with water (see No. 34) and
evaporate to the consistence of molasses.
This is used for fabricating spruce beer — a
right pleasant drink when it is fresh.
889. Root Beer. Take sarsaparilla
(American). 2 pounds ; spice wood, -J pound;
guaiacum chips, 1 pound ; birch bark, £ pound :
ginger, j ounce ; sassafras, 4 ounces ; prickly-
ash bark, £ ounce ; hops, 1 ounce. Boil for
12 hours over a moderate fire, with sufficient
water, so that the remainder shall measure 5
gallons, to which add tincture of ginger, 8
ounces ; oil of wintergreen, 1 ounce ; alcohol,
1 quart. This prevents fermentation. To
make root beer, take of this decoction 1 quart ;
molasses, Bounces; water, 2 k gallons; yeast,
4 ounces. This will soon ferment and pro-
duce a good drinkable beverage. The root
beer should be mixed, in warm weather, the
evening before it is used, and can be kept for
use either bottled or drawn by a common
beer-pump. Most people prefer a small addi-
tion of wild cherry bitters or hot drops to the
above beer. (See Nos. 821 and 891.)
890. Puffer's Root Beer. Prince's
pine, 2 ounces ; wild cherry, 2 ounces ; hem-
lock bark, 2 ounces ; wintergreen, 4 ounces ;
sassafras bark, 4 ounces ; birch bark, 4 ounces ;
spice bark, 4 ounces; Jamaica ginger, 2 ounces;
white mustard seed, 1 ounce. Put in a per-
colator and cover with boiling water ; let it
stand till cold, then strain ; add to it enough
boiling water to make 4 gallons. Take 1 gal-
lon of this, add 1 gallon of molasses, or the
same amount of syrup ; to this add 8 gallons
of water and about 1 pint of yeast. 1 pint of
alcohol added will much improve its flavor,
and it will keep longer.
891. Hot Drops. Take of tincture of
myrrh, 1 ounce ; tincture of capsicum, 2
ounces.
892. To Make Ottawa Root Beer.
Take 1 ounce each sassafras, allspice, yellow
dock, and wintergreen; £ ounce each wild
cherry bark and coriander; J ounce hops and
3 quarts molasses. Pour boiling water on
the ingredients and let them stand 24 hours ;
filter the liquor and add $ pint yeast, and it is
ready for use in 24 hours.
893. To Make Superior Ginger Beer.
Take 10 pounds of sugar, 9 ounces lemon
juice, h pound honey, 11 ounces bruised
ginger root, 9 gallons water, 3 pints yeast.
BoiJ the ginger half an hour in 1 gallon
water; then add the rest of the water and the
other ingredients, and strain it when cold.
Add the white of an egg beaten, and -J an
ounce essence of lemon. Let it stand 4 days,
then bottle, and it will keep many months.
894. To Make Ginger Beer. Put in-
to 1 gallon boiling water, 1 pound lump
sugar, 1 ounce best unbleached Jamaica
ginger well bruised, | ounce cream of tartar
and 2 lemons sliced ; stir the ingredients fre-
quently in a covered vessel until lukewarm ;
then add 1£ or 2 ounces yeast, and keep it in
a moderately warm place so as to excite a
brisk fermentation ; the next day rack and
strain through flannel ; let it work for a day
or two, then strain it again and bottle, wiring
down the corks.
895. Ginger Beer Without Yeast.
Boil 1| pounds bruised ginger in 3 gallons
water half an hour; then add 20 pounds
white sugar, 1 pint lemon or lime juice, 1
pound honey, and 17 gallons water; strain
through a cloth. When cold add the white of
1 egg, and | fluid ounce essence of lemon;
after standing 3 or 4 days, bottle.
896. To Make Ginger Pop. Take 5£
gallons water, f pound ginger root bruised, £
ounce tartaric acid, 2± pounds white sugar,
whites of 3 eggs well beaten, 1 small tea-spoon-
ful lemon oil, 1 gill yeast ; boil the root for 30
minutes in 1 gallon of the water, strain off,
and put the oU in while hot; mix. Make over
night ; in the morning skim and bottle, keep-
ing out sediments.
897. To Make Ginger Pop. Take 2
ounces best white Jamaica ginger root, bruised;
water, 6 quarts ; boil 20 minutes, strain, and
add 1 ounce cream tartar, 1 pound white
sugar ; put on the fire and stir until all the
sugar is dissolved, and put in an earthen jar ;
now put in J ounce tartaric acid, and the rind
of 1 lemon; let it stand until 70° Fahr., or
until you can bear your hand in it with com-
fort ; then add 2 table-spoonfuls of yeast, stir
well, bottle for use and tie the corks. Make
a few days before it is wanted for use.
898. Wahoo Beer. Boil for 6 hours in
4 gallons water, 1 ounce each sarsaparilla,. Sol-
omon's seal, nettle root, and sassafras; 2
ounces each burdock root, comfrey root, and
Prince's pine ; 2 ounces sweet fern, -J ounce
wintergreeu, and 4 raw potatoes cut up fine.
Strain, and add 1 quart molasses for each 3
gallons of the strained liquor, and a browned
loaf of bread. When cool, put in 1 pint of
good yeast, and let it ferment for 24 hours.
It will then be ready to be put in bottles or a
keg.
899. Lemon Beer. Put into a keg 1
gallon water, 1 sliced lemon, 1 table- spoonful
ginger, 1 pint good syrup, and i pint yeast.
In 24 hours it will be ready for use. If bot-
tled the corks must be tied down.
900. Imperial Pop. Cream of tartar, 3
ounces; ginger, 1 ounce; white sugar, 24
ounces ; lemon juice, 1 ounce ; boiling water,
H gallons; when cool, strain, and ferment
with 1 ounce of yeast, and bottle.
901. Girambing, or Limoniated Gin-
ger Beer. Boil 4-J- ounces of ginger with 11
quarts water ; beat up 4 eggs to a froth, and
add them with 9 pounds sugar to the preced-
104r
BREWING.
ing. Take 9 lemons, peel them carefully, and
add the rind and juice to the foregoing. Put
the whole into a barrel, add 3 spoonfuls of
yeast, bung down the barrel, and in about 12
days bottle it off. In 15 days it will be fit for
drinking, but it improves by keeping.
902. Ginger Beer Powders. Fine pow-
der of Jamaica ginger, 4 or 5 drachms ; bicar-
bonate of soda, 3i ounces ; refined sugar in
powder, 14 ounces; essence of lemon, 30
drops ; mix, and divide into 5 dozen powders.
(Or 4 to 5 grains of ginger, 28 of bicarbonate
of soda, 112 of sugar, and % drop of essence
of lemon, in each powder.) In the other
powder put 32 grains of tartaric acid : or 35
grains if a more decidedly acidulated bever-
age is required. Or from 30 to 33 grains of
citric acid.
903. Spruce Beer Powders. In each
blue paper put 5 scruples of powdered sugar,
28 grains of bicarbonate of soda, and 10 grains
essence of spruce. In each white paper 30
grains of tartaric acid.
904. Sherbet. Take 8 ounces carbonate
of soda, 6 ounces tartaric acid, 2 pounds loaf
sugar (finely powdered), 3 drachms essence of
lemon. Let the powders be very dry. Mix
them intimately, and keep them for use in a
wide-mouthed bottle, closely corked. Put 2
good- sized tea spoonfuls into a tumbler ; pour
in i pint of cold water, stir briskly, and drink
off.
905. Raspberry Shrub. 1 quart vine-
gar, 3 quarts ripe raspberries. After standing
a day, strain it, adding to each pint a pound
of sugar, and skim it clear, while boiling about
half an hour. Put a wine-glass of brandy to
each pint of the shrub, when cool. Two
spoonfuls of this, mixed with a tumbler of wa-
ter, is an excellent drink in warm weather
and in fevers.
906. Aerated or Effervescing Lemon-
ade. This may be made by putting into each
bottle (soda water bottle) 1 ounce or 1^
ounces syrup of lemons, and filling it up with
simple aerated water from the machine.
(The syrup is made by dissolving 30 ounces
lump sugar in 16 ounces of fresh lemon juice,
by a gentle heat. It may be aromatized by
adding 30 or 40 drops of essence of lemon to
the sugar ; or by rubbing part of the sugar
on the peel of 2 lemons ; or by adding to the
syrup an ounce of a strong tincture of fresh
lemon peel, or of the distilled spirit of the
same. )
907. Effervescing Lemonade, with-
out a Machine. Put into each bottle 2
drachms of sugar, 2 drops of essence of lem-
on, \ drachm bicarbonate of potash, and wa-
ter to fill the bottle ; then drop in 35 or 40
grains of citric or tartaric acid in crystals, and
cork immediately, placing the bottles in a
cool place, or preferably, in iced water.
908. Plain Lemonade in Powder.
(For ten gallons.) -j- pound tartaric acid in
powder, 16 pounds sugar in powder,
drachms oil of lemons. Hub and mix well.
1 ounce of this powder makes ^ pint of lem-
onade.
909. To Make Superior Lemonade.
Take the rind of 2 lemons, juice of 3 large
lemons, i pound loaf sugar, 1 quart boiling
water. Kub some of the sugar, in lumps, on
two of the lemons until they have imbibed al"
;he oil from them, and put it with the remain-
der of the sugar into a jug ; add the lemon
uice (but no pips), and pour over the whole
a quart boiling water. When the sugar is
dissolved, strain the lemonade through a piece
of muslin, and, when cool, it will be ready
"or use. The lemonade will be much im-
)roved by having the white of an egg beaten
ip with it.
910. To Make Orangeade. Take of
dilute sulphuric acid, concentrated infusion of
>range peel, each 12 drachms ; syrup of or-
ange peel, 5 fluid ounces. This quantity is
added to 2 imperial gallons of water. A large
wine-glassful is taken for a draught, mixed
with more or less water, according to taste.
This refreshing drink not only assuages the
hirst, but has, moreover, strong antiseptic
and anti-diaiThoea properties.
911. Imitation Lemon Juice. This is
an excellent substitute for lemon juice, and
jeeps well in a cool place. Dissolve 1J
ounces citric acid, 45 grains carbonate of po-
;assa, and 2£ ounces white sugar in 1 pint cold
water ; add the yellow peel of a lemon, and,
m 24 hours, strain through muslin or a hair
sieve. Instead of the lemon peel, 15 or 16
drops of oil of lemon may be used to flavor.
912. Imitation Lemon Juice. Citric
or tartaric acid, 2£ ounces; gum, -J ounce;
pieces of fresh lemon peel, j ounce ; loaf su-
, 2 ounces ; boiling water, 1 quart ; macer-
ite with occasional agitation till cold, and
strain. Excellent.
913. Imitation Orange Juice. Dis-
solve 1 ounce citric acid and 1 drachm carbon-
ate of potassa in 1 quart water, and digest in
the solution the peel of half an orange until
sufficiently flavored; then sweeten with
honey or white sugar. Instead of the orange
peel/5 or 6 drops of oil of orange peel, with£
fluid ounce tincture of orange peel, may be
used.
914. To Keep Lemon Juice. Buy
lemons when cheap and keep them in a cool
place two or three days ; roll them to make
them squeeze easily. Squeeze the juice in a
bowl, and strain it through muslin which will
not permit a particle of the pulp to pass
through. Have ready £ and i ounce phials,
perfectly dry. Fill them with the juice so
near the top as only to admit •£ tea-spoonful
of sweet oil in each,or a little more if for larger
bottles. Cork them tight, and put them in a
cool dark place. When you want the juice,
open such a sized bottle as you will use in a
few days. Wind some clean cotton on a
skewer, and dip it in, to absorb all the oil.
When the oil is removed the juice will be as
fine as when first bottled.
915. Portable Lemonade. Take 1
pound finely-powdered loaf sugar, 1 ounce
tartaric or citric acid, and 20 drops essence of
lemon. Mix, and keep very dry. 2 or 3 tea-
spoonfuls of this stirred briskl/iu a tumbler
of water will make a very pleasant glass of
lemonade. If effervescent lemonade be de-
sired, 1 ounce carbonate of soda must be
added to the above.
916. Lemonade Powders. Pound and
mix together £ pound loaf sugar, 1 ounce car-
bonate of soda, and 3 drops oil of lemon.
Divide the mixture into 16 portions, wrapped
in white paper. Then take 1 ounce of tar-
BREWING.
1O5
taric acid, and divide into 16 portions, wrap-
plug them in blue paper. Dissolve one of
each kind in half a tumbler of water, mix the
two solutions together, and drink while effer-
vescing.
917. Lemon Soda Nectar. Juice of 1
lemon, f tumblerful of water, powdered white
sugar to taste, i small tea-spoonful of carbon-
ate of soda. Strain the juice of the lemon,
and add to it the water, with sufficient white
sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. When
well mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and
drink while in an effervescing state.
918. Milk Punch. Take 1 table-spoon-
ful white sugar, 2 table-spooonfuls water, 1
wine-glass cognac brandy, i wine-glass Santa
Cruz rum, £ tumblerful shaved ice. Pill with
milk, shake the ingredients well together, and
grate a little nutmeg on top.
919. Brandy Punch. Take 1 table-
spoonful raspberry syrup, 2 table-spoonfuls
white sugar, 1 wine-glass water, 1| wine-glass
brandy, i small sized lemon, 2 slices of orange,
1 piece of pineapple. Fill the tumbler with
shaved ice, shake well, and dress the top with
berries in season ; sip through a straw.
920. Whiskey Punch. Take 1 wine-
f lass whiskey (Irish or Scotch), 2 wine-glasses
oiling water, sugar to taste. Dissolve the
sugar well with 1 wine-glass of the water,
then pour in the whiskey, and add the bal-
ance of the water, sweeten to taste, and put
in a small piece of lemon rind, or a thin slice
of lemon.
921. Claret Punch. Take 14 table-
spoonfuls of sugar, 1 slice of lemon, 2 or 3
slices of orange. Fill the tumbler with
shaved ice, and then pour in the claret, shake
well, and ornament with berries in season.
Place a straw in the glass.
922. Sherry Cobbler. Take 2 wine-
glasses of sherry, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, 2
or 3 slices of orange. Fill a tumbler with
shaved ice, shake well, and ornament with
berries in season.
923. Egg Nogg. Take 1 table -spoonful
of fine sugar, dissolved with 1 table-spoonful
cold water; 1 egg, 1 wine-glass Cognac brandy,
£ wine-glass Santa Cruz rum, £ tumblerful of
milk. Fill the tumbler J full with shaved ice,
shake the ingredients until they are thorough-
ly mixed together, and grate a little nutmeg
on top.
924. Bottle Cocktail. To make a
cblicious bottle of brandy Qocktail, use the
following ingredients : & brandy, -i- water, 1
pony-glass of Bogart's bitters, 1 wine-glass
of gum syrup, k pony-glass of Curacoa.
Whiskey and gin cocktails, in bottles, may be
made by using the above receipt, and substi-
tuting those liquors instead of brandy.
925. Brandy Smash, h table-spoonful
of white sugar, 1 table-spoonful water, 1
wine-glass of brandy. Fill §- full of shaved
ice, use two sprigs of mint, the same as in the
receipt for mint julep. Lay two small pieces
of orange on top, and ornament with berries
in season.
926. Santa Cruz Sour. 1 table-spoon-
ful fine sugar, 1 wine-glass Santa Cruz rum,
juice of & a lemon. Put the ingredients in
a small tumbler f- full of shaved ice, stir, and
strain into a claret glass, and dress with thin
slices of lime or lemon, and fruit in season.
927. Mulled Wine with Eggs. 1
quart of wine, 1 pint of water, 1 table-spoon-
ful of allspice, and nutmeg to taste ; boil
them together a few minutes ; beat up 6 eggs
with sugar to your taste ; pour the boiling
wine on the eggs, stirring it all the time. Be
careful not to pour the eggs into the wine, or
they will curdle.
928. Regent Punch. 14 each lemons
and oranges, the rinds only, 18J drachms
ground cinnamon, £ drachm ground cloves,
2 drachms ground vanilla. Cut, macerate for
24 hours with 2 gallons pure Cognac, and 2
gallons pure Jamaica rum. Strain, press, and
add 12 pounds of sugar, boiled with 6 gal-
lons water; skim, and add to the syrup 2
ounces green tea; let it cool, and add the
juice of 60 lemons and 14 oranges. Filter
through Canton flannel.
929. Bottle Wax. Shellac, 2 pounds;
resin, 4 pounds ; Venice turpentine, 1| pounds;
red lead, 1-J- pounds. Fuse the shellac and
resin cautiously in a bright copper pan, over
a clear charcoal fire. When melted add the
turpentine, and lastly, mix in the red lead.
Pour into moulds, or form sticks of the de-
sired size on a warm marble plate. The gloss
may be produced by polishing the sticks with
a rag until they are cold.
930. Corking. Little can be said with
regard to the
corkingofbot-
tles, beyond
stating the
fact that com-
mon, cheap
corks, are al-
ways dear;
the best corks
w- , are soft, vel-
vety, and free
from large pores; if squeezed they become
more elastic and fit more closely. If good
corks are used, of sufficiently large size to
be extracted without the corkscrew, they
may be employed many times in succession,
especially if they are soaked in boiling water,
which restores them to their original shape,
and renews their elasticity. The most common
mode of fastening down corks is with the
gingerbeer knot, which
is thus made. First the
loop is formed as in Fig.
1, then that part of the
string which passes
across the loop is placed
Fig. 2. on the top of the cork,
and the loop itself passed down around the
neck of the bottle, and by pulling the ends of
the cord is made tight beneath the rim ; the
Fig. 3.
ends of the string are finally brought up, and
tied either in a double knot or in a bow on the .
top of the cork. When ginger-beer is made at
home it will be found most advantageous to
use the best corks, and to tie them down with
a bow, when both corks and strings may be
made use of repeatedly. For effervescent
106
BREWING.
•wines, such as champagne, gooseberry, &c.,
•which require to be kept a longer time, and
Fig. 4
are more valuable, a securer knot is desirable,
which may be made thus : A loop, as in Fig.
2, is first formed, and the lower end is then
turned upwards and
( carried behind the loop
•* as shown in Fig. 3; it
is then pulled through
the loop as in Fig. 4,
and in this state is put
over the neck of the
bottle; the part a being
on one side, and the
two parts of the loop
on the other ; on pull-
ing the two ends the
whole becomes tight
_. round the neck, and
J!\g, 5. j.Qe en(jg> -which should
be quite opposite, are to be brought up over
the cork, twice twisted, as in Fig. 5, and then
tied in a single knot.
931. Distillation of Whiskey and
New England Rum. The process of dis-
tillation commences with the fermentation of
grain or molasses by the presence of yeast,
and this is called mashing, or preparing the
mash. Strictly speaking, indeed, the spirits
are not produced by distillation : that is done
by the previous step of fermentation, and dis-
tillation merely separates the spirits from the
mixture in which they already exist. The
object of fermentation is to convert the starchy
principle of the grain into sugar, or to sac-
charify it. After being agitated for 2 or 3 hours,
the saccharine infusion, called wort, is drawn
off from the grains and cooled. To this wort
is now added a certain quantity of yeast or
leaven, which induces the vinous fermentation,
and resolves the saccharine matter into alco-
hol and carbonic acid, accompanied by a rise
of temperature. The alcoholic mixture which
results is called the wash, and is now ready for
distillation.
932. How to Prepare Yeast for Rye
Whiskey or New England Rum. To
prepare yeast for 80 gallons mash, take 2
pounds of wheat meal and dilute it with suffi-
cient warm water to make a thin paste. Then
boil 2 ounces of hops in a quart of water, and
when cold take out the hops and throw them
away. Then dilute 1 quart of malt in a quart
of water. Mix, cold, the hop water, paste
and malt well together, and add half a pound
of leaven. Cover the jar containing the mix-
ture with a piece of cloth, and keep it 3 or 4
hours in sonic warm place until it rises. The
fermentation will be perfect after the whole
has arisen and then sunk down. Then add 2
gallons of the mash, stir the whole, mix it
with 80 gallons of the mash, and begin the
fermentation. This receipt is the very best
for rye whiskey.
933. To Prepare Yeast for New Eng-
land Rum. To 80 gallons mash, add 1 gal-
lon brewers' yeast and 4 pound carbonate of
ammonia dissolved in a pint of water. Stir
well, and begin the fermentation. Good for
New England rum.
934. To Prepare Yeast for Rye
Whiskey. To 80 gallons of mash, add 1
gallon yeast, 5 quarts of malt, aud 1 pound
of molasses. Dilute the inalt with 2 quarts of
water, and add the molasses. Keep the whole
in a warm place until it rises, as described in
No. 931. Add the yeast to the mash and stir;
afterwards add the molasses and malt and stir
again. Then begin the fermentation. Good
for rye whiskey.
935. How to Prepare Mash for New
England Rum. For a still by steam or fire.
To prepare 80 gallons rnash, reduce the mo-
lasses 18 degrees by the saccharometer, add
yeast No. 932, and stir well. Let it fer-
ment at a temperature of 75° Fahrenheit, un-
til the mash is reduced to 0. But as it is very
difficult to get such a reduction, the operator
may begin to distill when the mash marks 2
or 3 degrees by the saccharometer. Charge
three-fourths of the still, and begin distilling.
936. How to Prepare Mash for Rye
Whiskey. For a still by steam or fire. To
prepare 80 gallons mash, grind the rye into
coarse powder, then charge the fermenting
tubs in the proportion of 110 pounds of rye to
80 gallons of water, and mix yeast No. 931
or 933. Let it ferment at a temperature of
75° or 80° Fahr., until the fermentation is
completed. The fermentation will be perfect
after the mash rises and sinks. "When this is
done, charge three-fourths of the still and be-
gin distilling. In preparing the mash, the op-
erator may use all rye, as directed above — this
makes the best quality of whiskey — or use
three-fifths rye and two-fifths corn, or three-
fifths corn aud two-fifths rye.
937. Distillation with or without a
Heater. Distillers usually employ a heater
to hasten the process of distillation. "When
the heater is employed, the mash passes from
the fermenting tubs into the heater. During
the time occupied in distilling over the charge
of the still, it is necessary to keep a heat of
125 degrees in the heater. The mash passes
directly from the heater into the still by
means of a pipe or gutter, according to the
general arrangement of the apparatus. Distill
until the spirit which runs from the worm
marks 10 degrees below proof. This first run
is called high wine. Then remove the receiv-
er that contains the high wine, and substitute
another. Continue to distill until the low
wine ceases to blaze when it is thrown in the
fire. "Whenever this occurs, stop the opera-
tion, and keep the low wine for the next dis-
tillation. Then clean the still and charge it
with fresh mash. "When the operator does
not employ the heater, the mash passes from
the fermenting tubs immediately into the still.
No uniform disposition is necessary for the
fermenting tubs or heater ; all depends upon
the general arrangement of the 'apparatus.
The distiller need not be informed that the
apparatus must be arranged so as to save la-
bor. If the mash tubs are above the still,
connect them by a gutter or pipe ; if on a lev-
el with the still, employ a hand pump.
938. How to Pack a Rectifying Tub.
To rectify from 10 below proof to 50 abnvo
PERFUMER T.
proof. 30 bushels of inaple charcoal are re-
quired for a tub seven feet high and four feet
in diameter; a tub of this size will give a
clear bed of 14 inches. At two inches from
the bottom of the tub place a false bottom
perforated with i-inch holes, and cover this
bottom with sailcloth or blanket. Then pack
in the charcoal regularly and very tightly
with a wooden pestle. Great attention should
be given to this part of the operation, in or-
der to prevent the occurrence of holes or
crevices in the charcoal during the process of
nitration. Pack the sides of the tub thor-
oughly. Cover the charcoal with sailcloth,
place laths over the cloth, and use heavy
Btones to keep the charcoal down.
Perfumery. The receipts in this
department embrace a great variety of
odorous essences, extracts, tinctures, oils, po-
mades, cosmetics, dentifrices, and other articles
of the toilet, and are all derived from the
latest and best authorities.
940. How to Prepare Essences and
Perfumed Spirits. The scented spirits of
the perfumer are merely alcoholic solutions of
the aromatic and odorous principles of the
substances they represent, obtained in one or
other of the following ways: — By simply add-
ing essential oil or other odoriferous matter to
the spirit, and agitating them together until so-
lution is complete. Occasionally the resulting
alcoholic solution is distilled. By macerating
ordigesting the ingredients (previously bruised
or pulverized) in'the spirit, with frequent agi-
tation, for a few days, when the resulting
tincture is either decanted and filtered (if ne-
cessary), or the whole is thrown into a still,
and submitted to distillation by a gentle heat.
In the former case, the spirit retained in the
pores of the solid ingredients, and which, con-
sequently, cannot be drawn off, is obtained by
powerful pressure. (See Nos. 39 and 40.)
By digesting the spirit, with frequent agita-
tion on highly scented pomade or oil, in a
close vessel, at a gentle heat for some hours,
and the next day decanting the perfumed
spirit. (See No. 40.) Distillation is only ap-
plicable to substances of which the fragrant
principles are volatile, and readily pass over
with the spirit during the process. Thus,
flowers, flowering tops, herbs, seeds, &c., may,
in general, be so treated ; but not musk, am-
bergris, vanilla, and a few other substances,
of which the odor is of a more fixed nature.
(Sec No. 13.) In proceeding by distillation,
one of the first points to be attended to is, to
see that the still, condensing- worm, or refri-
gerator, and the receiver, be perfectly clean
and sweet, and absolutely free from the odor
of any previous distillation. The lute em-
ployed to secure the still-head or capital to
the still must also be of a simple character,
incapable of conveying any taint to the hot
vapor that comes in contact with it. (Linseed-
meal or equal weights of linseed-meal and
whiting, made into a stiff paste or dough with
water, is a good lute for the purpose. Sweet
almond-cake meal is still better.) The most
convenient and manageable source of heat is
high-pressure steam supplied from an adjacent
boiler, the body of the still being enclosed in
107
a steam-jacket for the purpose. A water-bath,
the boiling-point of which should be raised
by the addition of about i its weight of com-
mon salt, comes next in point of convenience
and effect. When the still is exposed to the
heat of a naked fire, or that of dry flues, a
little water must be put into it along with the
spirit and other ingredients, to prevent empy-
reuma ; and the greatest care must be taken
to stop the process, and to remove the re-
ceiver, as soon as the proper quantity of dis-
tillate is obtained. If this be neglected, the
odor of the whole may be vitiated. Moder-
ately rapid distillation is favorable to the
odor of the product, as is also the elevation
of the boiling-point in the liquid operated on.
Spirit . distilled from aromatics decreases in
odor with the boiling-point of the ingredients
in the still. To raise the latter, the addition
of 1 to 1£ pounds of common salt per gallon
is often advantageously made. (See Nos.
5, 6 and 7.) By one or other of the above
methods, or a combination of them, are, in
general, prepared all the "eaux," "esprits,"
and "extraits," of the perfumers. As a rule,
extraits and essences are preferred to eaux
and esprits as the basis of good perfumery,
when the color is not objectionable. "What-
ever process is adopted, the utmost care must
be taken in the selection of the spirit used.
Only spirit that is absolutely pure, flavorless,
and scentless, must be employed, if we desire
the product to be of fine quality. Malt-spirit
or corn-spirit contaminated, even in the very
slightest degree, with fusel-oil or corn-oil, or a
whiskey-odor, is utterly unfit for the purpose.
So also the refined methylated spirit now so
commonly and fraudulently sold as spirit of
wine. The extreme purity of the spirit em-
ployed by the Frenchmanufacturingperfumers
— it being actually spirit of wine, and not
merely so in name — is one of the reasons why
their odoriferous spirits are so much superior
to those of the American houses. Great care
must also be taken in the selection of the es-
sential oils intended to be employed in making
perfumed spirits. These should be pure or
genuine, and should be pale and recent, or of
the last season's distillation. If they be old,
or have been much exposed to the air, they
will contain more or less resin, and their alco-
holic solution will be defective in fragrance,
and be liable to permanently stain delicate
articles of clothing to which it may be ap-
plied. The strength of the spirit used for
concentrated essences, as a rule, should not
be less than 90 per cent., or of the specific
gravity .8332. A few require a spirit of even
greater strength than this. The first quality
of extraits, particularly those prepared from
pomades and oils, and many of the eaux and
esprits, also require 90 per cent, spirit. The
strength of the spirit for the others, and for
second qualities (commonly sold as the best
in the stores), must be fully 75 per cent., or of
the specific gravity .8765 ; that of the third
quality fully 70 per cent., or specific gravity
.8892; and that of the fourth quality fully
proof, or specific gravity .920. The last is
the lowest quality, and the weakest of any
kind made by respectable perfumers ; but the
double distilled lavender-water, eau de Co-
logne, and other scents, vended in little showy
bottles, by the druggists, and in fancy-stores,
108
PERFUMERY.
are commonly even much weaker than this,
being often under proof. (See No. 1435.) The
capacity of spirit, at this strength, of dissolv-
ing essential oil and other odorous matter is,
however, very little. The solvent power of
spirit decreases with its strength, but much
more rapidly. (Cooley.)
941. Essences. The term essence is
generally very loosely applied to a prepara-
tion of almost any kind, that is supposed to
contain in a high degree the essential or dis-
tinctive principle or quality of some substance.
Thus, the essential or volatile oils obtained
from vegetable substances by distillation;
concentrated infusions, decoctions, aqueous
solutions, and tinctures, are all often errone-
ously termed essences.
In perfumery the word "essence" is ap-
plied only to a solution of an essential oil in
deodorized alcohol, in the proportion, usually,
of 2 drachms to 2 ounces of the essential oil
to 1 quart of rectified spirits. Sometimes an
essence, using the term in its correct sense, is
distilled, with the addition of a little water;
it is then called distilled aromatic spirits.
942. Essences of Flowers. The es-
sences of those flowers which are not separate-
ly given in this work, may be made by one or
other of the following general formulae. Take
of essential oil (of the respective flowers), 1
ounce avoirdupois, and rectified spirit 90 per
cent. 1 pint (Imperial); dissolve as directed
for " Essence of Almonds." Or, take of the
(respective) flowers, 3 to 5 pounds; proof
spint, 2 gallons ; digest for a few days, and
then draw over, by distillation, 1 gallon of
essence. For those flowers that are not
strongly fragrant, the product may be distilled
a second and a third time, or even oftener,
from fresh flowers, as noticed under " Essence
of Roses." The products obtained by distilla-
tion are always colorless ; and hence flowers
rich in color may, in general, be advantage-
ously so treated. The flowers should be select-
ed when in their state of highest fragrance ;
and should be picked to pieces, or crashed or
bruised, as their nature may indicate. With
many, the last is facilitated by the addition of
some clean sand or common salt. Or, proceed
in the way described under " Essence of
Tuberose." This applies to most of those
flowers that contain little fragrant oil, and of
which the odor is extremely delicate. A
small quantity of some other odorous essence
or volatile oil is commonly added to the
simple essences of flowers, at will, to enrich
or modify the fragrance, each manufacturer
usually pursuing his own taste in the matter.
In some cases, spirit is impregnated with a
combination of essential oils and other odorous
substances, so as to produce, artificially, an
odor resembling or approaching that of the
particular flowers after which the products are
named ; although there may be none of the
respective flowers employed in their prepara-
tion. This is particularly the case with flowers
of which the odorous principle is difficult or
troublesome to extract, or which possess very
little of it. So also of the essences of many
flowers having strange or attractive names,
and no true fragrance. Hence arises the al-
most endless variety of fragrant essences,
esprits, and similar preparations, vended by
the perfumers of the present day, numbers of
which are mere artificial combinations of
other perfumes. ( Cooley. )
943. Essence of Almonds; Essence
of Bitter Almonds ; Essence of Peach-
kernels; Almond Flavor. Take of essen-
tial oil of almonds, 1 fluid ounce ; and recti-
fied spirit (90 per cent.), 19 fluid ounces ;
mix, and agitate or shake them together until
united.
944. Essence of Roses. Take of pure
otto of roses li drachms (Troy) ; and alcohol
(96 per cent.) 1 pint (Imperial) ; mix, place
the bottle in a vessel of warm water until its
contents acquire the temperature of about 85°
Fahr., then cork it close, and agitate it smart-
ly until the whole is quite cold. Very fine.
945. Extra Essence of Roses. Take
of petals of roses (fresh) 3 pounds avoirdu-
pois; and rectified spirit (90 per cent.) 5
Imperial quarts ; digest the petals (picked
to pieces) in the spirit for 24 hours, then distill
to dryness by the heat of a water-bath. Di-
gest the distillate (product of distillation) on
a fresh quantity of rose-petals, and re-distill,
as before; and repeat the whole process of
maceration and distillation a third, fourth,
fifth, and sixth time, or oftener, the last time
observing to conduct the distillation rapidly,
and to draw over only 1 gallon, which is the
essence. Delicately and delightfully fragrant.
It improves by age. The product of each of
the above receipts is very superior ; but that
of the last has a peculiar delicacy of flavor,
which distinguishes it from those prepared
from the otto. Some makers add to each
pint of the former 20 or 30 drops each oil of
bergamot and neroli, and 15 or 20 drops
essence of musk ; but the product of the last
formula is scarcely improved by any addition,
unless it be a very little neroli or essence
d'ambrette, or both, as the case may indicate.
The best rose leaves to use are those of the
rosa centifolia (cabbage-rose, damask-rose), or
rosa sempervirens (musk-rose), or mixtures of
them.
946. Essence of Rondeletia ; Extrait
de Rondeletia. Various formulae are cur-
rent for this exquisite perfume, of which
scarcely any produce an article approaching
in excellence the proprietary one. The fol-
lowing is an exception : Take of oil of laven-
der (Mitcham), | ounce avoirdupois; oil of
cloves (finest), 5 drachms avoirdupois : oil of
bergamot, 4 drachms ; i drachm each of the
finest essence of ambergris and musk ; recti-
fied spirit (strongest), f Imperial pint;
agitate them together until completely united.
Some persons add ^ drachm of neroli, or of
oil of verbena (Indian lemon-grass), with or
without 10 or 12 drops of otto of roses. Very
fine.
947. Curious Essence. Take of otto
of roses 2 drachms; oil of rose- geranium, 1
drachm; essence of musk, 3 Imperial fluid
drachms ; essence of ambergris, 1 Imperial
fluid drachm ; rectified spirit (warm), 1 pint ;
mix, closely cork the bottle, and agitate fre-
quently until cold. A powerful, durable, and
very agreeable perfume.
948. Essence de Frangipane; Ex-
trait de Frangipane; Frangipanni.
Take of neroli, 2 Imperial fluid drachms;
essence royale, 3 fluid drachms ; civet (pow-
dered), 10 grains avoirdupois ; oil of lavender,
PERFUMERY.
109
oil of cloves, oil of rhodium, of each, 5 or 6
drops; rectified spirit, 3£ to 4J fluid ounces ;
digest a week, and then decant the clear por-
tion. Powerful, durable, and pleasant.
949. Essence of Violets ; Essence of
Orris ; Factitious. Take of Florentine or-
ris-root (coarsely powdered), 1£ pounds avoir-
dupois; rectified spirit, 1 Imperial quart;
proceed by percolation or the method of dis-
placement, so as to obtain 1 quart of essence ;
or by digestion for two weeks, followed by
powerful pressure in a tincture-press. The
former is the best and most economical
method. This forms the best essence of vio-
lets of the wholesale druggists. It may be,
but is rarely, distilled. (See No. 954.)
950. Essence of Cologne; Cologne-
Essence ; Concentrated Eau de Cologne.
This is prepared from the same odorous in-
gredients as " Eau de Cologne," but taking 7
or 8 times the quantity, and using alcohol or
the strongest rectified spirit, without which a
permanent solution of the whole of them can-
not be formed. Used as a condensed and
convenient substitute for ordinary "Eau de
Cologne " by travelers, being less bulky. It
is also kept in stock by druggists and per-
fumers, to enable them to prepare that article
extemporaneously, by simply diluting it with
8 times its bulk of spirit of the appropriate
strength.
951. Essence of Orange ; Essence of
Orange-peel. Oil of orange-peel is popular-
ly so called. The alcoholic essence is made
from this oil like essence of almonds. (See
No. 943.)
952. Essence of Pimento; Essence
of Allspice. Prepared from oil of pimento,
as essence of almonds. Sometimes used in
compound perfumes and cosmetics, and for
toothache ; but chiefly as a flavoring essence.
953. Essence of Pineapple. From
pineapple oil (butyric ether), as the last.
Sometimes taken on sugar, by smokers ; but
chiefly used by confectioners, liqueur manu-
facturers, &c. (See No. 1060.)
954. Essence of Tuberose. The
flowers are placed in alternate layers with
sheep's or cotton wool impregnated with the
purest oil of ben or of olives, in an earthen ves-
sel, closely covered, and kept for 12 hours in a
water bath; the flowers are then removed
and fresh ones substituted, and this is re-
peated until the oil is sufficiently scented.
The wool or cotton is then mixed with the
purest spirit of wine, and distilled in a water
bath ; or, it is first digested in a well closed
vessel for several days in a warm situation,
with frequent agitation. A similar plan is
followed for the preparation of the essences of
jasmine, violets, &c. (See No. 1349.)
955. Essence of Lemons. From oil
of lemon, as essence of almonds. (See No.
943.) For this purpose the oil should have
been recently expressed, and preserved from
the air. A dash of essence of musk improves
it as a perfume, but not as a flavoring essence.
Oil of lemon is popularly called essence of
lemons.
956. Concentrated Essence of Musk.
Take of grain-musk (Tonquin or Chinese), 1
ounce avoirdupois ; boiling distilled water,
J Imperial pint; digest them together in a
close vessel, with frequent agitation, until
quite cold, then add 3£ pints rectified spirit
(95 per cent.), i fluid ounce liquor of am-
monia (.880-.885 specific gravity), and, having
closely corked or stopped the vessel and
securely tied it over with bladder, digest the
whole for 1 or 2 months, with frequent agita-
tion, in a room exposed to the sun, in sum-
mer, or in an equally warm situation in win-
ter. Lastly, after repose, decant the clear
portion, and, if necessary, filter it. A little
essence of ambergris is commonly added to
the filtrate, or, when this is not done, 1 to 2
drachms of ambergris are put into the vessel
before closing it, and after adding the spirit.
Yery fine. The residuum is treated with
fresh spirit for an inferior quality.
957. Fine Essence of Musk. Take i
ounce finest grain-musk, civet and ambergris
each 1 drachm, strongest essence d'ambrette,
k pint. Instead of the ambergris, 1 to l|
fluid ounces of essence of ambergris may be
added after decantation. The quantity of
civet ordered should on no account be ex-
ceeded. This produces the finest quality of
the Paris houses.
958. Common Essence of Musk.
Take f ounce (avoidupois) grain-musk, 1
quart (Imperial) rectified spirit (95 per cent.),
and 2 fluid ounces finest essence of ambergris ;
digest, <tc., as before. Excellent ; but greatly
inferior to the others. Essence of musk is an
agreeable and powerful perfume, and is great-
ly esteemed in the fashionable world. Its
odor is so durable that articles scented with
it will retain the fragrance for years. The
product of each of the above is of very fine
quality ; but that of No. 957 is the very
finest that is made, and such as is seldom
sold, except by the high-class perfumers, who
obtain for it a very high price. It is power-
fully and deliciously fragrant.
959. Best Way to Prepare the Es-
sence of Musk and Ambergris. The
best vessel for preparing essence of musk, as
well as of ambergris, is a strong tin-bottle
with a nicely rounded mouth and neck.
Great care should be taken to cork it perfect-
ly close, and, after this is done, to tie it over
securely with wet bladder. The bottle should
not be set in the full sunshine, but only in a
position warmed by it ; and in no case should
the digestion be of shorter duration than three
or four weeks, as otherwise much fragrant
matter will escape solution. The addition of
to 1 fluid drachm, per pint, of liquor of am-
monia, or of liquor of potassa (the first is
greatly preferable), increases the solvent
power of the spirit and vastly increases the
fragrance of the essence. A few grains of
salt of tartar (carbonate of potash) are some-
times added with the same intention; but
this addition is objectionable, as it does not
effect the object in view, whilst it occasions
partial decomposition of the mixture. To
:acilitate the action of the menstruum, and to
make the most of the ingredients, it is best to
rub down the musk, &c., with a little pow-
dered glass, sand, or lump sugar, as noticed
under "Essence of Ambergris." Filtration
and exposure to the air should, if possible, be
avoided.
960. Essence Boyale. Take of am-
bergris, 40 grains avoirdupois ; grain-musk
(pure), 20 grains ; civet and carbonate of
no
PERFUMERY.
potassa, of each 10 grains ; oil of cinnamon, 6
drops ; oil of rhodium and otto of roses, of
each 4 drops; rectified spirit, 4 Imperial
fluid ounces ; digest, with agitation, for 10 or
12 days, or longer. Very fragrant. The
above is a celebrated receipt, but we think it
would be improved by substituting 12 drops
liquor of ammonia for the carbonate of po-
tassa. (See last receipt.)
961. Essence of Neroli; Essence of
Orange Blossoms ; or Essence de Fleurs
d'Oranges. Dissolve k ounce avoirdupois
pure neroli in rectified spirit, 1 Imperial pint.
An ounce of essence of jasmine, jonquille, or
violets, is often added. A delicate and deli-
cious perfume.
962. Essence of Storax (or Styrax) ;
Extract of Storax. Take 1 ounce avoirdu-
pois finest genuine liquid storax and £ Impe-
rial pint rectified spirit ; digest, with agitation,
for a week, and then decant the clear portion.
963. Essence of Ambergris ; or Con-
centrated Tincture of Ambergris. Take
10 drachms avoirdupois 95 per cent, amber-
grisand 1 Irnperialpintrectified spirit, putthem
into a strong bottle or tin can, secure the mouth
perfectly and very firmly, and keep the vessel
in a room exposed to the heat of the sun, or
equally warm, for a month or two, observing
to briskly agitate it daily during the whole
time. Lastly, after repose, decant the clear
portion, and, if necessary, filter it rapidly
through soft blotting paper. Very fine. It
forms the strongest and finest simple essence of
ambergris of the Paris houses. (See No. 959.)
The common practice in making the essence
is to cut the ambergris up small before digest-
ing it; but a much better plan is to rub down
both the ambergris and musk with a little
powdered glass, clean silicious sand, or dry
lump-sugar, observing afterwards to rinse the
mortar out well two or three times, with por-
tions of the spirit, so that nothing may be
lost. A second quality may be made by em-
ploying half the quantity of ambergris to
the same amount 01 spirit.
964. Essence of Ambergris. Amber-
gris 10 drachms avoirdupois; grain musk (Ton-
quin or Chinese pure), 3 drachms; rectified
spirit, 1 quart. Proceed as in the last receipt.
The products of the above two receipts form
a delightful perfume highly esteemed in the
fashionable world. A very small quantity of
any one of them added to eau de Cologne,
lavender-water, tooth-powder, hair-powder,
pomades, wash-balls, &c., communicates a
delicious fragrance. A few drops added to
sweet-scented spirits, liqueurs, wines, &c.,
improve their flavor and aroma. 1 or 1^ fluid
drachms added to a hogshead of claret, imparts
a flavor and bouquet to the wine which is re-
garded by many as delicious.
965. Fine Essence of Vanilla. Take
h pound avoirdupois finest vanilla, and recti-
fied spirit, 1 Imperial quart; proceed as for
essence of musk. (See No. 959.) Lastly,
press and decant or filter. Very superior. It
forms the best quality vended by the whole-
sale druggists, and is sold at exorbitant prices.
This, as well as the preceding, is chiefly used
for flavoring, and as an ingredient in com-
pound perfumes and cosmetics. Essence of
vanilla is a favorite and useful addition to
tooth-cosmetics, pomades, &c. In preparing
it, the vanilla, <fcc., should be cut small with
a sharp knife ; or what is better, rubbed down
with a little powdered glass, sand, or lump-
sugar.
966. Essence of Patchouli ; Essence
de Patchoulie; or Essence de Poucha-
pat. Take 3 pounds avoirdupois Indian patch-
ouli (leaves or foliaceous tops), and rectified
spirit 9 Imperial pints ; digest for a week in
a close vessel, add £ ounce oil of lavender
(Mitcham) and promote solution by agitation.
Next throw the whole into a still, and further
add 1 gallon water and 2 or 3 pounds com-
mon salt. Agitate the whole briskly together,
lute on the still-head, and distill over (rapidly)
1 gallon. To the distillate add £ fluid ounce
finest essence of musk; and after 10 days'
repose, bottle it. A very fashionable perfume,
pai'ticularly for personal use.
967. Common Essence of Patchouli.
1J ounces otto of patchouli, J ounce otto of
rose, and 1 gallon rectified spirit.
968. Essence d'Ambrette ; or Essence
of Musk-seed. Take 1J p'ounds avoirdupois
finest musk-seed ; grind it in a clean pepper-
mill, and digest it for 3 or 4 weeks in 3 pints
Imperial rectified spirit; the vessel being
closely stopped or corked, and kept in a warm
room all the time. Lastly decant, press and
filter.
969. Essence of Bergamot. The pop-
ular name of oil of bergamot. A spirituous
essence may be made in a similar way to that
of almonds. (See No. 943.)
970. Essence of Cassia. From oil of
cassia, as essence of almonds. (See No. 943.)
Uses, <fcc., the same.
971. Essence of Cinnamon. From
oil of cinnamon, as essence of almonds.
(See No. 943. ) Essence of cassia is commonly
and fraudulently sold for it.
972. Essence of Civet. Take 1 ounce
(avoirdupois) civet cut very small, and 1 pint
(Imperial) rectified spirit; proceed as for
essence of ambergris or musk. Its odor is
only agreeable when faint and combined with
that of other substances, which it sustains
and increases. It is hence seldom or never
used alone.
973. Essence of Lavender. Take 1
ounce avoirdupois oil of lavender (Mitcham)
and i Imperial pint strongest rectified spirit ;
mix with agitation ; a few drops of the es-
sences of musk and ambergris being added at
will. Very fine.
974. To Extract the Essence from
any Flower. Take any flowers you choose ;
place a layer in a clean earthen pot, and over
them a layer of fine salt. Repeat the process
until the pot is filled, cover closely, and place
in the cellar. Forty days afterwards, strain
the essence from the whole through a crape
by pressure. Put the essence thus expressed
in a clear bottle, and expose for six weeks in
the rays of the sun and evening dew to purify.
One drop of this essence will communicate its
odor to a pint of water.
975. To Make Attar, or Otto of
Roses. Gather the flowers of the hundred-
leaved rose (rosa centifolia), put them in a
large jar or cask, with just sufficient water to
cover them, then put the vessel to stand in
the sun, and in about a week afterwards the
attar — a butyraceous oil — will form a scum on
COLOGNE WA TEE.
Ill
the surface, which should bo removed by the
aid of a piece of cotton.
Cologne Water and Per-
\-^ fumed Spirits. In preparing
eau de Cologne, it is essential that the spirit be of
the purest description, both tasteless and scent-
less, and that the oils be not only genuine, but
recently distilled; as old oils, especially if they
have been exposed to the air, are less odorous,
and contain a considerable quantity of resin
and camphor, which would prove injurious.
French spirit of 90 per cent, should be used
in the manufacture of eau de Cologne, and
when a weaker spirit is employed, the essen-
tial oils must be dissolved in a small quantity
of 90 or 95 per cent, spirit. Should the mix-
ture afterwards prove turbid, filter it through
paper with a little carbonate of magnesia.
(See Nos. 1080 and 1081.) To produce an
article of the finest quality, distillation should
be had recourse to ; but a very excellent eau
de Cologne may be produced by simple solu-
tion or maceration of the ingredients in the
spirit, provided all the essences be new, pale-
colored, and pure.
The mass of the eau de Cologne prepared in
America, some of which possesses the most
delicate fragrance, and is nearly equal to the
beat imported, is made without distillation.
977. Piesse's Best Quality Eau de
Cologne. Mix with agitation 3 ounces attar
of neroli p6tale ; 1 ounce attar of neroli bi-
garade ; 2 ounces attar of rosemary ; 5 ounces
attar of orange zest ; 5 ounces attar of citron
zest; and 2 ounces attar of bergamot, with
6 gallons 95 per cent, grape spirit. Let it
stand perfectly quiet for a few days. Although
very fine eau de Cologne is often made by
merely mixing the ingredients, it is better
first to mix all the citrine attars with spirit,
then distill the mixture, and afterwards add
the rosemary and nerolies. This method is
adopted by the most popular house in Cologne.
978. Eau de Cologne. To 3 pints alco-
hol of 95° add 124 drachms oil of lemon, 1J-
drachms oil of orange, 2£ drachms oil of
cedrat, 14 drachms oil of vervain, 2i drachms
oil of bergamot, 2-J drachms oil of mint, 5
drachms oil of lavender, 14 drachms oil of
white thyme, 2 drachms oil of Portugal, 1|
drachms oil of rosemary, 8 ounces tincture of
ambretta, and 1 pound eau de melisse ; (eau
des carmes) ; mix well in a bottle, and after
standing six hours add 2i drachms tincture of
ambergris ; then filter until clear. This is
greatly improved by distilling.
979. Eau de Cologne— -Extra.— Put 1
quart 95 per cent, alcohol into a bottle ; add to
it 9 drachms oil of cedrat, 2 drachms oil of
thyme, 6 drachms each oil of bergamot and
oil of lemon, 4 drachms oil of Portugal, 2
drachms each oil of neroli, oil of vervain and
011 of rosemary, 2£ drachms oil of mint, 2
pints eau de melisse and 24 drops tincture of
musk ; mix thoroughly, and after standing for
12 hours, filter till clear.
980. Durockereau's Cologne Water.
To 7 quarts French tasteless alcohol, add 11
drachms essence of Portugal, 13 drachms es-
sence of bergamot, 1 ounce essence of lemon,
10 drachms essence of neroli, 1 ounce essence
of rosemary, 1 ounce essence of lavender, 14
drachms rose water, 13 drachms jasmin wa-
ter, 15 drachms orange-flower water. Mix;
the whole together, let it stand 24 hours, and
distill over a water-bath.
981. Gouffe's Eau de Cologne. Take
£ ounce each essences of lemon, bergamot,
and citron; \ ounce essence of rosemary; \
ounce essence of neroli. Infuse for 8 days in
1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol. Filter, and bottle
for use.
982. Farina's Eau de Cologne. Take
of angelica-root, 10 grains; camphor, 15
grains; cassia-lignea, cloves, mace, nutmegs,
wormwood tops, of each 20 grains ; calamus
aromaticus, sage, thyme, of each \ drachm
(Troy); orange flowers, 1 drachm (Troy); la-
vender flowers, li drachms (Troy) ; rose pet-
als, violets of each, 3 drachms (Troy) ; balm-
mint and spear-mint of each 1 ounce (Troy) ;
2 sliced lemons ; 2 slic_ed oranges, and 5 gallons
rectified Cologne spirits. Bruise or slice the
solids, and digest them in the spirit, with
frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 days, then distill
off 3 gallons. To this add, of oil of berga-
mot, essential oil of jasmin, 1 fluid ounce each;
oil of balm-mint, oil of cedrat, oil of lavender,
oil of lemon, 1 fluid drachm each ; pure neroli
and oil of anthos-seed, of each 20 drops.
Agitate until solution is complete, and the
next day, if necessary, filter. This formula,
many years since, was confidentially given
by the celebrated original Jean Maria Farina,
who lived opposite the Jiilichs Platz, in Co-
logne, to a professional gentleman, now de-
ceased, with a solemn assurance that it was
the one used by the former in his laboratory.
After keeping the secret some years, this gen-
tleman disclosed it. It seems unnecessarily
complicated. Some of the articles, as the
herbs wormwood and mint, are either useless
or better omitted. The version given above
differs from the original simply in being in-
tended for only 5 gallons instead of twelve
times the quantity. Dr. Cooley says he per-
sonally tried it, and found the quab'ty of the
product splendid.
983. Parrish's Best Cologne Water.
Mix together 2 fluid ounces oil of bergamot,
2 fluid drachms oil of neroli, £ fluid ounce oil
of jasmin, 2 fluid drachms oil of garden
lavender, 1 minim oil of cinnamon, 3 fluid
ounces benzoated tincture, i fluid ounce oil
of musk, 1 gallon deodorized alcohol, and 2
pints rose-water. The mixture should stand
a long time before filtering for use.
984. Parrish's Common Cologne Wa-
ter. A much cheaper preparation than the
foregoing can be made by mixing 1£ fluid
ounces oil of lavender, i fluid ounce oil of
rosemary, 1 fluid ounce oil of lemon, and
20 drops oil of cinnamon, with 1 gallon alco-
hol.
985. Genuine Cologne Water. The
following formula was published by one of
the Farinas in the journal of the North Ger-
man Apothecaries' Association. Dissolve 2
ounces by weight purified benzoin, 4 ounces
oil of lavender, and 2 ounces oil of rosemary,
in 9 gallons 95 per cent, fine Cologne* spirits.
To this solution add successively, 10$ ounces
each of the oils of neroli, neroli petit-grain,
and lemon ; 20£ ounces each of the oils of
sweet orange peel, limes, and bergamot ; to-
112
PERFUMED SPIRITS.
getter with tincture of rose-geranium flowers,
sufficient to suit the taste. Macerate for
some weeks, then fill into flasks.
986. Fine Cologne Water. Take of
pure 95 percent. Cologne spirits, 6 gallons; oil
of neroli, 4 ounces; oil of rosemary, 2 ounces;
oil of orange, 5 ounces ; oil of citron, 5 ounces;
oil of bergamot, 2 ounces ; mix with agita-
tion ; then allow it to stand for a few days
perfectly quiet before bottling.
987. Cologne Water, Second Quality.
Pure 95 per cent, alcohol, 6 gallons; oil of
neroli, 2i ounces ; oil of rosemary, 2 ounces ;
oil of orange peel, 4 ounces ; oil of lemon, 4
ounces ; oil of bergamot, 4 ounces. Treat in
the same way as the last.
988. Eau des Cannes; Eau de Me-
lisse ; Compound Spirit of Balm. Fresh
flowering balm, 24 ounces ; yellow rind of
lemon, cut fine, 4 ounces ; cinnamon, cloves,
and nutmeg (bruised), of each 2 ounces ;
coriander seed (bruised). 1 ounce; dried an-
gelica root, 1 ounce ; rectified spirit, 1 gallon.
Macerate for 4 days, and distill in a water-
bath.
989. Fine Lavender Water ; or Eau de
Lavande. Take 2 ounces (avoirdupois) finest
oil of lavender (Mitcham), essence of musk
(finest), 1 Imperial fluid ounce; essence of
ambergris ( finest ), and oil of bergamot ( recent),
of each ^ ounce ; rectified spirit (90 per cent.,
scentless), | gallon; mix by agitation. Very
fine without distillation ; but better for it, in
which case the essences should be added to the
distillate. Delightfully and powerfully fra-
grant. (Cooley.)
990. Smith's Lavender Water.
Take i ounce (avoirdupois) oil of lavender
(Mitcham) ; essence of ambergris, J ounce ;
eau de Cologne (finest), J Imperial pint; rec-
tified spirit, $ pint ; mix by agitation. Yery
fragrant, and much esteemed. The ordinary
lavender water is usually made with spirit at
proof, or even much weaker ; hence its in-
ferior quality to that of the higher class of
perfumers. 1 ounce of true English oil of
lavender is all that will perfectly combine
with 1 gallon of proof spirit (or 1 drachm to
the pint) ; any excess rendering it milky or
cloudy.
991. Common Lavender Water. En-
glish oil of lavender, 3 ounces ; rectified spirit
(90 per cent.), 1 gallon. Dissolve. Cordial,
and fragrant.
992. Eau de Bouquet. Take of spirit
of rosemary, essence 01 violets, and orange-
flower water, of each 1 Imperial fluid ounce ;
oil of bergamot and oil of jasmin, of each 1
fluid drachm ; oil of lavender and oil of ver-
bena, of each i fluid drachm ; eau de rose, i
pint; rectified spirit, li pints; mix. A de-
lightful perfume. Yarious other similar
formulae are employed.
993. Eau de Marechale. Take 'of es-
sence of violets, 1 Imperial fluid ounce ; oil ol
bergamot and oil of cloves, of each J ounce
(avoirdupois); orange-flower water, i pint;
rectified spirit, 1 pint; mix. An agreeable
and favorite perfume.
994* Eau d'Ambre Royale ; Eau
Royale. Take of essence of ambergris am
essence of musk, of each 1 Imperial fluid
drachm ; eau d'Ambrette and eau de fleurs
d'oranges, of each 2i fluid ounces ; rectified
spirit, 5 fluid ounces ; mix. Yery agreeable
and durable.
995. Eau d'Ambrette ; or Esprit
d'Ambrette. Take 1 pound (avoirdupois)
grains d'Ambrette (musk-mallow seed, bruis-
d); rectified spirit, 1 Imperial quart; water, f
>int ; digest for 7 or 8 days, and distill off I
juart. Yery fine. Commonly sold as "Es-
sence d'Ambrette." "When used alone, a very
ew drops of essence of ambergris and esprit
de rose improve it.
996. Fine Hungary Water. Take 2
pounds (avoirdupois) rosemary-tops (in blos-
som); i pound sage (fresh); rectified spirit, 3
[mperial quarts ; water, 1 quart ; digest for 10
days, throw the whole into a still, add li
jounds common salt, and draw over 6 pints.
To the distillate add 1 ounce bruised Jamaica
ginger, digest a few days, and either decant
>r filter. The old plan of adding the ginger
jefore distillation is wrong, as the aromatic
principle of the root does not pass over with
;he vapor of alcohol.
997. Common Hungary Water.
Take li to 2 Imperial fluid drachms pure
oil of rosemary; oil of lavender (English), i
fluid drachm; orange-flower water i pint;
rectified spirits, li pints; mix. No. 996 is
the genuine formula. This is the perfume
usually sold by the perfumers. Spirit of rose-
mary is now commonly sold for it by the
druggists.
998. Simple Perfumed Spirits— Es-
prits. The simple perfumed spirits (esprits)
and odoriferous tinctures are principally used
in making compound eaux, esprits, <BC. Their
common strength, per pint, is, of—
Attar of roses, i fluid drachm ; neroli, es-
sence de petit grain, of each li to 2 fluid
drachms; essential oils (ordinary), i fluid
ounce; concentrated essences, 2 to 2.i fluid
ounces. The spirit of wine employed for
them should in no case be weaker than 75
per cent., and for spirit of roses (esprit de
rose), it should be, at the least, 90, or else
little of the attar will be dissolved. These
proportions may be adopted for all the simple
spirits of the perfumer for which separate
formulae are not given in this work, and even
in place of those so given, at the convenience
of the operator, when intended for the use
just mentioned. When flowers, leaves, seeds,
&e., are employed, the proportions may be li
to 3, or even 5 pounds to the gallon of the
distillate or product, according to their
nature ; and, with certain flowers, the pro-
cess must be repeated with fresh flowers, as
often as necessary. To mature and bring out
the full fragrance of distilled spirits, they
should be kept for some time in a cellar, or
other cool situation, previously to being used
or offered for sale. The same applies, though
in a less degree, to perfumed spirits prepared
by the other methods.
999. Esprit de Bergamotte. Take 5
Imperial fluid drachms oil of bergamot (finest,
recent) ; oil of rose-geranium and oil of ver-
bena, each i fluid drachm ; essence of am-
bergris, 2 fluid drachms ; essence of musk, J
fluid drachm; rectified spirit, 1 pint; mix.
Very fine. For a second quality (usually
called best), 1 quart of spirit (70 per cent. ) is
used ; for a third quality, 3 to 4 pints at
proof.
PERFUMED SPIRITS.
113
1000. Eau de Lavande de Millefleurs.
Take 1 quart eau de lavande ; oil of cloves,
1| fluid drachms ; oil of cassia and essence of
ambergris, each 4 fluid drachm ; mix.
1001. Esprit de Rose. The compound
perfume sold under this name is commonly
made as follows : Take 1 Imperial pint finest
simple esprit de rose (see No. 998) ; essence
of ambergris and oil of rose -geranium, each i
fluid drachm ; mix. Delicately fragrant.
1002. Esprit de Bouquet. Take 4 Im-
perial fluid drachms oil of lavender; oil of
bergamot and oil of cloves, each li fluid
drachms ; essence of musk and oil of verbena,
each i fluid drachm ; attar of roses, 5 to 6
drops ; and rectified spirit, 1 pint ; mix, and
agitate frequently for a day or two. A very
powerful and agreeable scent.
1003. Eaud'Heliotrope. Take essence
of ambergris, coarsely powdered, •£ Imperial
fluid drachm; vanilla, •£ ounce avoirdupois ; or-
ange-flower water, i pint ; rectified spirit, 1
quart ; digest for a week, and then decant or
filter. 5 or 6 drops each of oil of bitter al-
monds and cassia are sometimes added. TJsed
both as a cosmetic and perfume.
1004. Esprit de Jasmin Odorant.
Take extrait de jasmin, and rectified spirit,
each $ Imperial pint; essence of ambergris, \
fluid drachm; neroli (finest), 8 or 10 drops;
mix. A delicate and favorite foreign scent.
1005. Millefleur Water. Very pure
rectified spirit, 9 pints ; balsam of Peru (gen-
uine) and essence of cloves, each 1 ounce ;
"essences of bergarnot and musk, each 2 ounces ;
essences of neroli and thyme, each J ounce ;
eau de fleurs d' oranges, 1 quart; mix well.
Very fine.
1006. Honey Water (Eau de Miel).
Rectified spirit, 8 pints (Imperial) ; oil of
cloves, oil of lavender, oil of bergamot, of
each 4 ounce avoirdupois ; musk, 15 grains ;
yellow- sanders shavings, 4 ounces ; digest for
8 days, and add 2 pints each of orange-flower
and rose waters.
1007. Honey Water. (With Honey.)
White honey, 8 ounces avoirdupois ; coriander
seed, 8 ounces; fresh lemon-peel, 1 ounce;
cloves, f ounce; nutmeg, benzoin, styrax
calamita, of each 1 ounce; rose and orange-
flower water, of each 4 ounces ; rectified
spirit, 3 Imperial pints ; digest for a few days,
and filter. Some receipts add 3 drachms
of vanilla, and direct only i ounce of nutmeg,
storax, and benzoin.
1008. Rose Water. The ordinary best
rose-water of the stores, particularly of the
wholesale druggists who deal largely in the
article, is generally made as follows: — Dissolve
attar of roses, 6 drachms avoirdupois, in strong-
est rectified spirit (hot), 1 Imperial pint; throw
the solution into a 12-gallon carboy, and add
10 gallons pure distilled water, at 180° to 185°
Fahr.; at once cork the carboy (at first
loosely), and agitate the whole briskly (at first
cautiously), until quite cold. The product is
really superior to much of the trash carelessly
distilled from a scanty quantity of rose-leaves,
and sold as rose water. (See Nos. 1071 and
1079).
1009. Orange-Flower Water. The
genuine imported article is one of the most
delightfully fragrant of all the odoriferous 'dis-
tilled waters. An imitation may be made as
follows : — Take of orange-flowers, 7 pounds
avoirdupois ; fresh thin yellow-peel of bitter
oranges, 6 to 8 ounces ; water, 2 Imp'erial gal-
lons; macerate 24 hours, and then distill 1
gallon.
1010. Orange-Flower Water. An-
other method is as follows. — Orange-flowers,
12 pounds avoirdupois; water, 36 pounds;
distill 24 pounds for double orange-flower
water; this, with an equal quantity of dis-
tilled water, forms the single. The flowers
should not be put into the still till the water
nearly boils.
1011. Florida Water. Dissolve in i
gallon 90 per cent, alcohol, 1 ounce each oil of
lavender, oil of bergamot, and oil of lemon ;
and of oil of cloves and cinnamon 1 drachm
each ; add 1 gallon water, and filter.
1012. Florida Water. Oil of berga-
mot, 3 ounces ; oil of cinnamon, 4 drachms ;
tincture of benzoin, 2 ounces ; 75 per cent, al-
cohol, 1 gallon. Mix and filter. (See No.
976.)
1013. Fine Florida Water. Take 2
drachms each of the oils of lavender, berga-
mot, and lemon ; 1 drachm each of tincture
of turmeric and oil of neroli ; 30 drops oil of
balm and 10 drops oil of rose ; mix the above
with 2 pints deodorized alcohol. (See No.
976.)
1014. Tincture of Coriander. Pow-
der coarsely 4 ounces coriander seed, and
macerate for 15 days in 1 pint 95° alcohol ;
strain and filter.
1015. Tincture of Nutmegs. Bruise
well 6 ounces nutmegs in li pints 95° alco-
hol ; let it remain for a couple of weeks, stir-
ring occasionally ; then press through a coarse
cloth, and filter. Tincture of ginger, mace,
and other spices are prepared by the same
method.
1016. Tincture of Storax. Macerate
5 ounces storax in 3 pints 95° alcohol, until
dissolved, then filter.
1017. Alcoliolate of Roses. Macerate
2 pounds fresh roses in 2 quarts alcohol of 95°
and 1 pint water for 12 hours ; then distill by
means of a water-bath. If a superior article
is required, the alcoholate thus prepared may
be used to macerate 2 pounds more roses, and
then distilled as before.
1018. Tincture of Vanilla. Steep 2
ounces vanilla, cut into small pieces, in 1 pint
alcohol, for about a month ; stir frequently,
and filter.
1019. Tincture of Benzoin. In 2£
quarts alcohol of 95°, macerate 8 ounces
powdered benzoin until dissolved, then filter
it and bottle ; cork closely.
1020. Tincture of Balsam of Peru.
Macerate 8 ounces liquid balsam of Peru in 3
pints 95° alcohol ; when dissolved, filter.
1021. Tincture of Grain of Paradise.
Macerate 4 ounces coarsely powdered grain
of paradise for 15 days in 1 pint alcohol of
95°, then press through a cloth and filter.
1022. Tincture of Balsam of Tolu.
Dissolve 5 ounces balsam of Tolu in 3 pints
alcohol, and filter.
1023. Tincture of Cardamoms. Bruise
4 ounces cardamoms, and macerate 2 weeks
in alcohol of 95° ; press through a cloth and
filter.
1024. Tincture of Ambergris. Pow-
114:
FLAVORING EXTRACTS.
der thoroughly 1 ounce ambergris and h
ounce sugar in a warm mortar ; then dissolve
J ounce carbonate of potash in 14 ounces alco-
holate of roses, and add to it 85 ounces tinc-
ture of musk (see No. 1025); macerate the
whole for about 1 month, and filter.
1025. Tincture of Musk. Rub i
'ounce musk in a warm mortar with a little
sugar ; macerate for a month in 7 ounces
alcohol containing 1 ounce each tincture of
ambergris and tincture of vanilla. Filter
thoroughlj" and then add a few drops of attar
of roses.
1026. Economical Perfumes. The
cheap perfumes which are offered for sale in
email fancy bottles, are of the simplest kind,
and from the nature of the case, made of the
least expensive materials. The following are
the leading mixtures, which are sold under
the names deemed the most likely to prove
attractive :
Mix 1 ounce essence of bergamot, or attar
of santal, with 1 pint spirits of wine.
Mix k ounce each of the attars of lavender
and bergamot, and 1 drachm attar of cloves,
with 1 pint spirit of wine.
Mix i ounce attar of lemon grass, and \
ounce essence of lemons, with 1 pint spirit of
wine.
Mix J ounce attar of petit- grain, and ^ ounce
attar of orange peel, with 1 pint spirits of
wine.
These mixtures are filtered through blotting
paper with the addition of a little magnesia
to make them bright. It would be well if all
the cheap perfumes put up in attractive bot-
tles were as good as these mixtures. A large
proportion of them are far inferior, and fre-
quently little more than weak perfumed wa-
ters.
1027. To Make Imitation Bay; Bum.
The genuine bay rum is made by digesting
the leaves of the . Bay plant (an aromatic
plant which grows in the West Indies), in
rum, and subsequent distillation. The imita-
tion is prepared from the essential oil obtained
from the Bay plant. Mix 1 ounce of oil of
Bay (or f ounce oil of Bay, and J ounce of
either oil of pimento, allspice, or cloves), with
4 gallons 95 per cent, alcohol; then add
gradually 4 gallons of water, shaking the
mixture constantly. If the mixture should
become milky, the addition of a little alcohol
will make it clear. Probably the best imita-
tion is as follows : 10 fluid drachms oil of
Bay, 1 fluid drachm oil of pimento, 2 fluid
ounces acetic ether, 3 gallons alcohol, and 2i
gallons water. Mix, and after 2 weeks' re-
pose, filter.
1028. "West India Bay Bum. Take
2 pounds of leaves of the myrtus acris, k
pound cardamoms, 2 ounces cassia, 1£ ounces
cloves, and 9 quarts rum. Distill 1J gallons.
Bay rum may be colored with tincture of
saffron, or with a mixture of equal parts cara-
mel (see No. 694) and tincture of turmeric.
1029. Cheap Bay Bum. Saturate a £
pound block of carbonate of magnesia with
oil of Bay ; pulverize the magnesia, place it
in a filter, and pour water through it until
the desired quantity is obtained, then add al-
cohol. The quantity of water and of alcohol
employed depends on the desired strength
and quality of the Bay rum.
o _
J- tracts. The following excellent
receipts, taken from the "American Journal
of Pharmacy," are by Prof. W. Procter, Jr.
1031. Lemon Extract. Expose 4
ounces of the exterior rind of lemons in the
air until partially dry; then bruise in a
wedgewood mortar ; add to it 2 quarts dedor-
ized alcohol of 95°, and agitate until the color
is extracted ; then add 6 ounces recent oil of
lemon. If it does not become clear imme-
diately, let it stand for a day or two, agitating
occasionally. Then filter.
1032. Orange Extract. Follow the
same method as for lemon extract, using 4
ounces exterior rind of oranges, 1 quart of
deodorized alcohol of 95°, and 2 ounces recent
oil of orange.
1033. Extract of Bitter Almonds.
Mix together 4 ounces oil of bitter almonds,
1 ounce tincture of turmeric, and 1 quart 95°
alcohol.
1034. To Neutralize the Poison in
Extract of Bitter Almonds. As this ex-
tract is poisonous in a quantity, it is better to
deprive it of its hydrocyanic acid as follows : —
Dissolve 2 ounces sulphate of iron in a pint
of water ; in another pint of water slake 1
ounce lime recently burned ; mix them to-
gether, and shake the mixture with 4 ounces
oil of bitter almonds. Distill in a glass retort
until the whole of the oil has passed over ;
and after allowing the oil time to separate
from the water, remove it for use. -»
1035. Extract of Bose. Bruise 2
ounces of hundred -leaved rose-leaves ; make
an extract from them by macerating in 1
quart deodorized alcohol ; press the quart of
alcohol out, and add to it 1 drachm oil of rose,
and filter through paper. If there are no red
rose leaves, a little tincture of cochineal will
give a pale rose tint.
1036. Extract of Cinnamon. Dissolve
2 drachms oil of cinnamon in 1 pint deodor-
ized alcohol ; add gradually 1 pint of water,
and then stir in by degrees 4 ounces powdered
Ceylon cinnamon ; agitate several hours, and
filter through paper.
1037. Extract of Nutmegs. Mix 2
drachms oil of nutmegs with 1 ounce pow-
dered mace ; macerate for 12 hours in 1 quart
deodorized alcohol, and filter.
1038. Extract of Ginger. Pack 4
ounces powdered ginger in a percolator,
moisten it with a little alcohol, then pour on
alcohol until 1£ pints of tincture have passed
through. Mix this with 8 ounces syrup.
1039. Extract of Black Pepper. This
is prepared from powdered pepper in the
same manner as the extract of ginger, pouring
on alcohol until a quart has passed through,
and omitting the syrup.
1040. Extract of Capsicum. Prepared
from powdered capsicum, m the same manner
as black pepper.
1041. Extract of Coriander. Mix 4
ounces powdered coriander with 1 drachm oil
of coriander; add the mixture to 1£ pints al-
cohol of 95°, and ^ pint water ; macerate for
24 hours, decant the liquid ; put the matter
that has settled into a percolator, and pour on
it the decanted liquid, adding alcohol until a
quart has ran through.
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES.
115
1042. Extract of Vanilla. Cut 1 ounce
vanilla into small pieces, and triturate with 2
ounces sugar to a coarse powder ; put it into
a percolator, pour on it diluted alcohol until
1 pint has run through — then mix with 1 pint
syrup.
1043. Extract of Celery. Bruise 2
ounces celery seeds, and put into a percola-
tor; pour on 1 pint deodorized alcohol, then
pour on water till a pint of extract has passed
through ; triturate with 1 drachm carbonate
of magnesia, and filter.
1044. Extract of Soup-herbs. Put
into a percolator 1 ounce each of thyme,
sweet marjoram, sweet basil, and summer
savory, and 1 drachm celery seeds. Pour on
them sufficient diluted alcohol to make 1 pint
of extract.
Artificial Fruit Essences.
y-\. These are composed chiefly of com-
Souud ethers, which possess the odor and
avor of certain fruits. In some of the fol-
lowing receipts, where tartaric, oxalic, suc-
cinic or benzoic acid enters into the composi-
tion of an essence, it must be understood that
these acids are not to be used in their pure
state, but in the form of saturated solutions
(see No. 27) in cold alcohol. Glycerine will
be found as an ingredient in nearly all these
artificial essences; it seems to blend and har-
monize the different odors.
1046. Peach Essence. This is a mix-
ture of 5 parts glycerine, 2 parts aldehyde, 5
parts acetate of ethyl, 5 parts formiate of
ethyl, 5 parts butyrate of ethyl, 5 parts vale-
rianate of ethyl, 5 parts oenanthylate of ethyl,
1 part sebacic ether, and 2 parts salicylate of
methyl.
1047. Apricot Essence. To 4 parts
glycerine add 1 part chloroform, 10 parts
butyrate of ethyl, 5 parts valerianate of ethyl,
1 part oenanthylate of ethyl, 2 parts salicylate
of methyl, 1 part butyrate of amyl, and 1
part saturated solution of oxalic acid in alco-
hol. (See No. 1045.)
1048. Plum Essence. To 8 parts gly-
cerine, add 5 parts of aldehyde, 5 parts acet-
ate of ethyl, 1 part formiate of ethyl, 2 parts
butyrate of ethyl, and 4 parts oenanthylate of
ethyl.
1049. Cherry Essence. Take 3 parts
flyceriue, 5 parts acetate of ethyl, 5 parts
enzoate of ethyl, 1 part oeuanthylate of ethyl,
and 1 part saturated solution (see No. 1045) of
benzoic acid in alcohol.
1050. Black Cherry Essence. Mix 10
parts acetate of ethyl with 5 parts benzoate
of ethyl, 2 parts cenanthylate of ethyl, 1 part
saturated solution of oxalic acid, and 2 parts
solution of benzoic acid. (See No. 1045.)
1051. Lemon Essence. To 5 parts gly-
cerine, 1 part chloroform and 1 part nitric
ether, add 2 parts aldehyde, 10 parts acetate
of ethyl, 10 parts valerianate of amyl, 10
parts solution of tartaric acid, and 1 part sat-
urated solution of succinic acid. (See No.
1045 )
1052. Pear Essence. To 10 parts gly-
cerine add 5 parts acetate of ethyl and 10
parts acetate of amyl.
1053. Orange Essence. With 10 parts
glycerine, mix 2 parts chloroform, 2 parts alde-
hyde, 5 parts acetate of ethyl, 1 part each of
formiate, butyrate and benzoate of ethyl, 1
part salicylate of methyl, 10 parts acetate of
amyl, 10 parts essence of orange, and 1 part
saturated solution of tartaric acid. (See No.
1045.)
1054. Apple Essence. To 4 parts gly-
cerine, 1 part chloroform, and 1 part of nitric
ether, add 2 parts aldehyde, 1 part acetate of
ethyl, 10 parts valerianate of amyl, and 1
part saturated solution of oxalic acid. (See
No. 1045.)
1055. Grape Essence. To 10 parts gly-
cerine and 2 parts chloroform, add 2 parts
aldehyde, 2 parts formiate and 10 parts cenan-
thylate of ethyl, 1 part salicylate of methyl,
and 5 parts tartaric and 3 parts succinic acids
in saturated solution. (See No. 1045.)
1056. Gooseberry Essence. To 1 part
aldehyde add 5 parts acetate, 1 part benzoate
and 1 part cenanthylate of ethyl, and 5 parts
saturated solution of tartaric, and 1 part each
of the same of succinic and benzoic acids.
(See No. 1045.)
1057. Raspberry Essence. To 4 parts
glycerine and 1 part nitric ether, add 1 part
aldehyde, 5 parts acetate of ethyl, and 1 part
each of formiate, butyrate, benzoate and oenan-
thylate of ethyl, 1 part sebacic ether, 1 part
salicylate of methyl, 1 part each acetate and
butyrate of amyl, 5 parts tartaric and 1 part
succinic acid in saturated solution. (See No.
1045.)
1058. Strawberry Essence. To 2
parts glycerine and 1 part nitric ether add 5
parts acetate, 1 part formiate and 5 parts buty-
rate of ethyl, 1 part salicylate of methyl, and
3 parts acetate and 2 parts butyrate of amyl.
1059. Melon Essence. Take 3 parts
glycerine, 2 parts aldehyde, 1 part formiate, 4
parts butyrate and 5 parts valerianate of
ethyl, and 10 parts sebacic ether.
1060. Pineapple Essence. To 3 parts
glycerine and 1 part chloroform add 1 part
aldehyde, 5 parts butyrate of ethyl and 10
parts butyrate of amyl.
T^xtraits; Extracts, in
. I i French perfumery these are, appro-
priately, strong spirituous solutions, either
simple or compound, of the essential oils and
odorous principles of plants and other sub-
stances, obtained by infusion or digestion, as
distinguished from those that are obtained by
distillation and direct solution. Under the
term, however, are often classed many per-
fumes prepared with rectified spirit by the
latter methods, and which are highly charged
with the fragrant matter, or matters, which
they represent. The preparation of most of
the extraits is simple enough, the chief care
necessary being that the spirit be absolutely
scentless and of sufficient strength, and that
the oils and other materials be recent and
perfectly pure.
1062. Extrait de B-ondeletia. Take
12 drachms avoirdupois oil of lavender (Mitch-
am) ; oil of cloves, 5 drachms ; oil of berga-
mot, 4 drachms; oil of verbena (orneroli), 1
drachm; essence of ambergris and essence
116
PERFUMED WATERS.
of musk, of each J Imperial fluid drachm;
rectified spirit (90 per cent.), 1 pint ; mix. A
rich and highly esteemed perfume.
1063. Extrait de Millefleurs. Take 4
grains finest grain musk ; finest ambergris, 6
grains ; oil of lemon, 6 drachms ; oil of laven-
der (English), and oil of cloves, each 4
drachms ; liquid storax (genuine), 1 drachm ;
oil of verbena, oil of pimento and neroli, of
each 12 drops (minims); rectified spirit, 1
Imperial pint ; macerate in a warm room,
with frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 weeks.
Yery fine. The omission of the storax ren-
ders it paler, and thus preferable to some per-
sons.
1064. Jockey Club Bouquet. Mix 1
pint extract of rose, 1 pint extract of tuberose,
\ pint extract of cassia, 4 ounces extract of
jasmin, and 3 ounces tincture of civet. Filter
the mixture.
1065. Bouquet de Millefleurs. Mix
1 pint extract ol rose ; i pint each of the ex-
tracts of tuberose, jasmin, orange-flower,
cassia, and violet ; 4 ounces essence of cedar,
2 ounces each of the tinctures of vanilla, am-
bergris, and musk ; i pint essence of rose, 1
ounce attar of bergamot, and 10 drops each
of the attars of almonds, neroli, and cloves.
Let the mixture stand for a week, and then
filter.
1066. Bouquet de Rondeletia. Mix
2 ounces attar of lavender, 1 ounce attar of
cloves, 1 ounce attar of bergamot, 3 drachms
attar of roses, 4 ounces each of the tinctures
of musk, vanilla, and ambergris, with 1 gallon
deodorized alcohol. After a month's repose,
filter.
1067. Imitation Lily of the Valley.
This much admired perfume is made by mix-
ing together i pint extract of tuberose, 1
ounce extract ol jasmin, 2 ounces extract of
orange-flower, 3 ounces extract of vanilla, i
pint extract of cassia, J pint extract of rose,
and 3 drops attar of almonds. Keep this
mixture for a month and then use.
1068. Imitation Essence of Myrtle.
Mix together and allow to stand for 2 weeks,
i pint extract of vanilla, 1 pint extract of
roses, i pint extract of orange-flower, £ pint
extract of tuberose, and 2 ounces extract of
jasmin.
1069. Extract of Patchouli. Mix 1J
ounces attar of patchouli, and i ounce attar
of rose, with 1 gallon rectified spirits.
Aromatic, Odoriferous, or
-"- Perfumed "Waters, &c.
These are strictly pure water charged by dis-
tillation with the volatile, aromatic, and
odorous principles of plants ; or they are so-
lutions of these principles, chiefly the essen-
tial oils, in distilled water. The simple fra-
grant waters of the perfumers are of the
former kind ; those of the wholesale druggists
and of pharmacy belong to either class, ac-
cording to the mode of their preparation.
1071. Proportions of Aromatics
Submitted to Distillation for Making
Perfumed Waters. The vegetable matter
(bruised, if necessary), in the quantity ordered,
is to be put into the still along with" 2 gallons
of pure water, but only 1 gallon drawn over.
In this way the finest fragrant distilled waters
may be produced frcm all flowers, and other
aromatic vegetable substances. The points
requisite to be attended to are, that the flowers
be fresh, gathered after the sun has risen and
the dew exhaled, and that sufficient water be
used to prevent the flowers being burned, but
not much more than is sufficient for this pur-
pose. The quantities usually directed are :
Roses, 8 pounds (avoirdupois) ; water, 2 gallons
(Imperial) ; distill 1 gallon for single, and the
same water with 8 pounds of fresh roses for
double rose water. The usual quantities of
aromatic material required in proportion to
the amount of distilled water to be obtained,
are given in classified form in the Journal de
Pharmacie as follows : Fresh aromatic plants,
such as wormwood, black-cherry, scurvy-
grass, hyssop, cherry-laurel, lavender, balm,
mint, peach-leaves, roses, and sage, require 1
part of the plant for each part distilled pro-
duct desired. Fresh and dry aromatics, as
bitter almonds, orange-flowers, melilot, horse-
radish, elder, and tansy, require 1 part of the
plant to 2 parts of distilled product. Dry and
very aromatic plants, as angelica, green anise,
juniper berries, camomile, canella, cascarilla,
fennel, sassafras, linden-flowers, and valerian,
require 1 part of the plant to each 4 parts of
distillate. These proportions will be some
guide both in respect of the distilled waters
referred to, and others not included in the list.
In general, druggists draw over 2 gallons of
water from the respective quantities of
flowers, herbs, bark, or seeds, ordered in the
Eharmacopceias, quantity rather than quality
eing their object. Manufacturing perfumers,
on the contrary, either use an excess of flowers
for their finer odoriferous waters, or they pre-
serve only the first and stronger portion of
the water that distills over; the remainder
being separately collected and used for a
second distillation with fresh flowers. In
some cases, where a very superior quality is
desired, they re-distill the water of the first
distillation and preserve only the first f, or
even only the first half, that passes over.
1072. Elder-flower Water, Acacia-
flower Water, and Bean-flower Water,
are prepared in the same manner as rose water.
(See Nos. 1071 ami 1079.)
1073. Directions for Distilling Per-
fumed Waters. The following directions
are, in the main, those given by the
thoroughly practical chemist, Mr. Arnold
J. Cooley. In the distillation of odoriferous
waters, manufacturing perfumers employ
their utmost care, in order to produce a
highly fragrant article, free from any contam-
ination that can vitiate the purity of their
odor, or lessen their keeping qualities. The
still may be of copper, but the head and worm
should be formed of solid tin. It should be
furnished with a high and narrow neck to
prevent the liquor in it spirting over into the
neck and condensing- worm. A still furnished
with a steam-jacket is the most convenient
for the purpose, as the heat of steam, or of a
salt-water bath, can alone be safely employed.
The common plan is to reject the first 2 or 3
fluid ounces that pass over, and to collect the
remainder of the runnings until the proper
quantity be obtained. The whole product is
PERFUMED WATERS.
117
then agitated together, and stored, loosel;
covered, in a cool cellar for some weeks, o
even months, in order that it may lose it
herbaceous odor and the rawness from recen
stillage. It is a common practice to separate
any volatile oil floating on waters after dis
tillation, but Mr. Haselden, of England, re
commends the excess of oil to be well shaken
with the water and the whole transferred tc
the stock vessel, where the oil will separate
it keeps better thus treated, and full strength
is ensured. He prefers the stock vessel to b
of stoneware, furnished with a tap about 2
inches from the bottom, whereby the water
can be drawn out clear, the oil either rising
to the top or sinking to the bottom, according
to its specific gravity. As soon as it has ac-
quired its full odor, or reached maturity, it is
carefully decanted into bottles, which are then
well corked or stopped, and stored in a moder-
ately cool place. Some of the leading manu-
facturing perfumers keep a separate still for
each of their more delicate distilled waters,
and thoroughly clean them out and dry them
after each distillation, as it is extremely
difficult to remove any odor or taint that ad-
heres to the still, still-head, and worm. Even
blowing steam through them for some hour;
will not always sufficiently purify them for
this species of distillation. In the preparation
of distilled waters for medicinal purposes, a
clean, sweet still, still-head, and worm, must
also be employed. The two last should be o\
tin or glazed stoneware ; and the receiver;
should be of glass or stoneware. The utmost
care should be taken to prevent contamination
of distilled waters by contact with copper,
l«ad or zinc, since they slowly oxidize and
dissolve these metals. In almost all cases,
salted or pickled flowers, herbs, &c., are great-
ly superior to the fresh vegetables for the
preparation of fragrant distilled waters.
When the former are employed the product
has little or none of the herbaceous and raw
odor which is always present when the latter
are used, besides which they keep better, and
reach maturity, or the full development of
their odor, in a much shorter time. (See No.
1349.) Carefully prepared distilled waters
keep well, and are not liable to any change,
but when the reverse is the case, particularly
when the liquor in the still has spirted over
the neck of the still-head into the condensing
worm, they are apt to acetify, and even to be-
come ropy and viscid. A common, but very
objectionable plan, in such cases, is to agitate
them with a little carbonate of magnesia, and
to filter them through paper. The only safe
remedy is to re-distill them on the first indi-
cation of such change, for magnesia weakens
them. Indeed, all their essential oil and fra-
grance may be removed by increasing the
quantity of it. If magnesia, in any form, be
used for filtering distilled waters, it should be
the carbonate ; but a little of even that will
be dissolved if the water be ever so slightly
acidulous.
1074. To Remove the Burnt Smell
of Freshly Distilled Waters. The burnt
smell of waters, frequently arising from care-
less stilling, is usually lost, or greatly lessened,
by freezing, or by exposure to a temperature
approaching the freezing point ; but if the
water be highly charged with essential oil,
part of the latter will separate, and thus the
water will lose some of its fragrance. (See
No. 1076.)
1075. To Prevent Distilled Waters
from Souring. To prevent carelessly pre-
pared distilled waters acetifying or turning
sour, and to recover those which have begun
to spoil, a common plan is to shake them up
with a little calcined magnesia, or to dissolve
in each pint of them 1 grain each of powdered
borax and alum. This, however, is not to be
recommended, as it unfits the waters for use
as vehicles. Whenever it is unavoidably had
recourse to, the best plan is to re-distill the
water a few days afterwards.
1076. Practical Suggestions for Ma-
king Distilled Waters. There are certain
general rules or points to be adhered to in dis-
tilling perfumed waters : Dry, hard, or fibrous
substances should be mechanically divided,
and macerated in water before undergoing dis-
tillation. Too great a quantity of materials
should not be introduced at one time into the
body of the still ; if this precaution be ne-
glected, there is a risk of the liquid boiling
over or spirting into the receiver. Ebullition
should be attained as quickly as possible, and
be continuous. Sufficient water should be
left undistilled to cover the matter in the still,
to guard against its coming in contact with
the sides of the vessel. In this case the mat-
ter would be decomposed by the heat, and
yield empyreumatic products ; besides, if the
distillation is carried too far, a slimy forma-
tion is apt to adhere to the sides of the still,
which would also be decomposed by the heat,
and have a similar effect on the product.
These risks may be greatly lessened, if not
entirely avoided, by applying heat by means
of an oil-bath, regulated by a thermometer ;
and still better by a bath containing a solution
of chloride of calcium (muriate of lime). Any
degree of heat between 212° and 285° Fahr.
may be obtained and sustained by regulating
the strength of the solution. (See No. 7.)
Another convenient method is by steam. (See
No. 1077.) "Waters distilled from plants are
apt to have a smoky odor at first, even when
the greatest care and precaution have been ob-
served in their distillation; exposure for a short
;ime to the air will remove this, after which
;hey should be kept in closely-stoppered bot-
;les, and preferably in bottles 'containing only
sufficient for probable use at one time ; they
should be entirely filled and closed air-tight.
1077. Soubeiran's Steam Apparatus
por Distilled Waters. The illustration given
s a vertical section of Soubeiran's apparatus
used in Prance for obtaining distilled waters.
A cylindrical tinned-copper or iron boiler, A,
of convenient size, say 3| feet high and 2 feet
n diameter, is surmounted by an expanded
lead or capital, B, which is furnished with an
nner ledge, forming a kind of gutter, to re-
ceive the liquid condensed on the inner surface
if the capital, and opening into the exit tube, j
. About 6 inches from the bottom of the j
jylinder is placed a false bottom or diaphragm, 1
?, pierced with small holes. A steam pipe, d, \
laving a stop-cock, a, is introduced in the
cylinder in the manner shown, terminating in
an expansion, &, perforated like the rose of a
watering-pot, and located a little below the
iaphragm.
118
AROMATIC VINEGAR.
The material to be distilled, after proper
preparation, is placed upon the diaphragm,
the capital, B, is applied and luted with dex-
trine paste ; steam is passed through the tube,
and issuing from 6, passes through the material,
becomes loaded with the volatile matter, rises
into the capital, condenses, and passes through
f, into a worm or other suitable condenser.
1078. Vanilla Water. Macerate 1
pound vanilla in coarse powder, and 5 pounds
salt in 2£ gallons water for 24 hours. Then
distill over rapidly 1 gallon.
1079. Rose Water. Take 48 Troy
ounces pale rose, and 16 pints water. Mix
them and distill 8 pints. "When it is desirable
to keep the rose for some time before distill-
ing, it may be preserved by being well mixed
with i its weight of chloride of sodium (table
salt). U. S. Ph. (See No. 1008.)
1080. To Prepare Aromatic Waters
from Essential Oils. The United States
Pharmacopeia, although not discarding alto-
gether the process of distillation in the prepa-
ration of aromatic water, directs, in prefer-
ence, that water should be impregnated with
the volatile oil by trituration with carbonate
of magnesia, and subsequently filtered. This
is the most simple and easy process. The wa-
ter is obtained pure and transparent, the mag-
nesia being separated by the nitration. The
object of the magnesia is simply to enable the
oil to be brought to a minute state of subdi-
vision, and thus present the largest possible
surface to the water; but its use is open to the
objection that it is slightly soluble in water,
and is apt to produce, under certain circum-
stances, a slightly flocculent precipitate. It
has been recommended to use porcelain clay,
finely powdered glass, or pumice stone, in-
stead of magnesia, as these substances arc
wholly insoluble. (See No. 1073 and 1081.)
1081. Aromatic or Perfumed Waters.
Take 2 fluid drachms of the essential oil of
the plant, triturate with 2 drachms levigated
powdered silex ; then add very gradually,
with constant trituration, 8 pints distilled wa-
ter. After brisk agitation for some time, filter
the solution through filtering paper wetted
with pure water. This is a convenient method
for the extemporaneous preparation of per-
fumed waters, but, without great care in ma-
nipulating, the products are inferior instrength
to those obtained by distillation. Finely pow-
dered or levigated glass may be used when si-
lex (quartz) is unobtainable. Magnesia and
sugar were each formerly used for the purpose,
but are objectionable. (See No. 1080.
1082. Aromatic or Perfumed Waters.
Instead of preparing the waters directly from
the essential oils, an essence may be made by
dissolving 1 Imperial fluid ounce of the essen-
tial oil in 9 fluid ounces rectified spirit ; 2 Im-
perial fluid drachms, of the essence agitated
briskly for some time with 1 Imperial pint
distilled water, and filtered through wet filter-
ing paper, will make a good perfumed water.
Cooley says this is an excellent formula for
extemporaneous waters ; but the U. S. Dis.
pronounces them feeble for medicated pur-
poses, in the properties of their respective es-
sential oils. (See No. 1008.)
o '— Vinai-
•*^- gre Aromatique. This
is a compound of strong acetic acid with cer-
tain powerful essential oils. To produce the
finer qualities of aromatic vinegar, glacial
acetic acid must alone be employed. Aromat-
ic vinegar is used as a pungent and refreshing
nasal stimulant in languor, faintness, nervous
headaches, dimness of sight, &c. For this
purpose it is generally dropped on a small
piece, of sponge placed in a stoppered bottle,
or a vinaigrette, which is only smelt at. It
forms a useful caustic for warts and corns.
As it is highly corrosive, it should be kept
from contact with the skin and clothes.
(Cooley.)
1084. Fine Aromatic Vinegar. Take
of glacial acetic acid, 1 pound avoirdupois;
rectified spirit, 2 Imperial fluid ounces ; cam-
phor (pure, crushed small), 2k ounces ; oil of
cloves (finest), 1£ drachms; oil of rosemary,
1 drachm ; oil of bergamot, oil of cinnamon,
oil of lavender, oil of pimento, ueroli (or es-
sence de petit- grain), of each, A drachm ; mix
(in a stoppered bottle), and agitate until the
whole of the camphor is dissolved. Yery
fine, and highly esteemed.
1085. Aromatic Vinegar. Take of
camphor, 1 ounce avoirdupois ; oil of cloves, 1
drachm ; oil of cedrat, and lavender (Mitch-
am), of each 40 grains; oil of bergamot and
thyme, of each 20 grains ; oil of cinnamon, 10
grains ; glacial acetic acid, £ pound ; mix as
before. Very fine.
1086. Henry's Aromatic Vinegar.
This resembles the preceding, except in being
strongly scented with the oils of cloves, lav-
ender, rosemary, and calamus aromaticus
only.
1087. Vinaigre Aromatique. Take of
camphor, 1 ounce avoirdupois ; oil of cloves,
15 grains ; oil of cinnamon, 10 grains ; oil of
lavender (English), 5 or 6 grains; glacial
acetic acid, 4 pint. As the last. It is im-
proved by doubling the quantities of the es-
sential oils.
1088. Acetic Perfumes. The stronger
aromatic or perfumed vinegars fall under this
class of preparations ; as do also various
esprits and eaux (alcooliques) to which a
marked acetic odor has been given by the
addition of concentrated acetic acid. The
latter may be conveniently prepared by
simply adding 1 to 1£ fluid ounces of glacial
SMELLING SALTS— PERFUMED POWDERS.
119
acetic acid to each % pint of scented spirit.
For acetic eau de Cologne and other like per-
fumes, H to 2 ounces of acid, per pint, is gen-
erally sufficient.
SaltS. Sesquicarbon-
ate of ammonia commonly passes under
this name, and, with the addition of a few
drops of essential oil, is frequently employed
to till smelling bottles. Its pungency, how-
ever, is neither so great nor so durable as that
of the true or neutral carbonate of ammonia.
The latter salt continues unchanged in com-
position, and preserves its pungency as long
as a particle of it remains unvolatilized. The
portion only which flies off suffers decomposi-
tion as it volatilizes, separating into gaseous
ammonia and carbonic acid. The pungency
of the sesquicarbonate, on the other hand, de-
pends solely on its gradual decomposition, in
the solid state, into carbonate of ammonia,
which flies off under exposure to the air ; and
into bicarbonate of ammonia, which is much
less volatile and only slightly pungent, and
which remains behind ; the weight of the lat-
ter being far greater than one-half the weight
of the original salt. Carbonate of ammonia,
and not the sesquicarbonate, should, therefore,
be alone used in filling smelling bottles, if a
strong, agreeable, and durable pungency be
desired. It is employed, either directly or in-
directly, by the makers of all the more es-
teemed smelling salts of the day ; and their
predecessors did the same, even long before
the chemistry of the two salts, and the ration-
ale of the properties which cause a preference
for the one, were known. (Coolcy.)
1090. Fine Smelling Salts. Take of
carbonate of ammonia (crushed small), 1
pound avoirdupois; oil of lavender (Mitcham),
oil of bergauiot, of each 1 Imperial fluid
ounce ; oil of cloves, 2 fluid drachms ; oil of
cassia, 1 fluid drachm. Rub them thoroughly
together, sublime at a very gentle heat into
a well-cooled receiver, and at once put the
product into a well-stoppered bottle, or bot-
tles. The sublimation may be omitted, but
the quality of the product suffers. This is
varied in some samples, by substituting 1
ounce of oil of lemon, or a little of the oils of
rosemary and sweet flag (calamus aromaticus),
for the oils of cloves and cassia ; or by adding
(after sublimation) a dash (2 or 3 drops per
bottle) of essence of musk or essence royale.
1091. Smelling Salts. As before, but
taking as perfume, oil of bergamot, 2 fluid
ounces ; oil of verbena, \ fluid ounce; attar of
roses, 1 to 2 drachms. It is varied as in the
la^t.
1092. Smelling Salts. Same as No.
1030, but using oil of bergamot aud lemon,
of each, f fluid ounce ; essence de petit-grain,
3 fluid drachms; oil of cloves and cassia, of
each, 1 fluid drachm ; varied, as before, at will.
1093. Inexhaustible Smelling Salts.
Take 1 pint liquid ammonia, 1 drachm attar
of rosemary, 1 drachm attar of lavender, \
drachm attar of bergamot, and \ drachm attar
of cloves. Mix together by agitation in a
very strong, well-stoppered bottle. To prepare
a smelling-bottle of this mixture, fill a stopper-
bottle with pieces of sponge, previously well
beaten, washed and dried ; pour into the bot-
tle as much of the mixture as the sponge will
absorb, but not sufficient for a drop to escape
if the bottle be inverted.
1094. Aromatic Spirit of Ammonia.
Take of carbonate of ammonia, 8 ounces
avoirdupois ; strong liquor of ammonia (.882)
4 Imperial fluid ounces ; volatile oil of nut-
meg, 4 fluid drachms; oil of lemon, 6 fluid
drachms; rectified spirit, 6 pints; water, 3
pints ; mix, and distill 7 pints. Specific grav-
ity .870. This is now the only authorized form-
ula. The product is excellent, and very agree-
able in use. (Br. Ph.)
1095. Ammpniated Perfumes. These
are prepared by either adding strong liquor of
ammonia to the liquid perfumes (eaux, esprits,
&c.,) ih sufficient quantity to impart to them
a pungent arnmoniacal odor, or by adding to
the articles, before distillation, the ingredients
that, by their mutual reaction, produce am-
monia. In the former case, i to l| fluid ounces
of liquor of ammonia (.880-.882), per pint,
will be required, according to the nature of
the preparation and the degree of pungency
desired ; and in general, when much essential
oil is present, a spirit of higher strength than
usual should be employed for the esprit, to
compensate for its subsequent dilution by the
ammonia. In the other case, 4 to 5 drachms
of sal ammoniac, and 7 to 8 drachms of car-
bonate of potash for each pint of the product
intended to be drawn over, are mixed with
the cold ingredients just before distillation.
For this use the liquor of ammonia must be
perfectly free from tarry or empyreumatio
matter, and have a purely ammoniacal odor.
1096. Ammoniated Eau de Cologne ;
Ammoniacal Cologne Water. As a per-
fume, this is best prepared by either of the
methods noticed under ammoniated perfumes.
It is now very extensively employed as a sub-
stitute for spirit of sal volatile. "When in-
tended for use in this way, a more agreeable
and effective article may be produced by add-
ing 1 ounce of carbonate (sesquicarbonate) of
ammonia, and •£ fluid ounce of the strong
liquor of ammonia to each pint of the product,
or intended product, which will then have
about the strength of the officinal spirit of sal
volatile (spiritus ammouise aromaticus) of the
British Ph. That of the stores has usually
only little more than half this strength.
1097. Eau de Lavande Ammonia-
cale. To each Imperial pint of eau de la-
vande (see No. 989), add of liquor of ammonia
(.880-.882), | to 1 fluid ounce.
1098. Ammoniacal Lavender Water.
Take of oil of lavender (English) 1 fluid
ounce; spirit of ammonia (caustic) H pints;
mix. The product is the officinal preparation
of the French. Used as a stimulating pungent
scent, in fainting, headaches, &c.
Perfiimed Powders and
3R/O UgeS. Powders for the hair and
skin have almost gone out of use. The basis of
perfumed powders is either orris, or fine pearl
starch. The perfume of the finest kinds is im-
parted by alternating layers of starch and fresh
flowers, the latter being afterwards separated
by sifting. The simple perfumed powders thus
120
COSMETICS.
obtained, by judicious admixture, form com-
pound or bouquet powders. The tediousness
and expense of this process prevent its gener-
al employment. The common mode is to
scent by the direct addition of extracts or es-
sential oils, or else to mix in powdered fra-
grant material with the orris or starch.
1100. Violet Powder. Wheat starch,
12 pounds ; powdered orris, 2 pounds. Mix
together, and add attar of lemon, £ ounce ;
attars of bergamot and cloves, each 2 drachms.
1101. Poudre d'Iris. Powdered orris
root, 12 pounds; powdered bergamot peel,
and acacia flowers, each 8 ounces ; powdered
cloves, i ounce. Mix and sift.
1102. Prepared Bran for the Hair.
Powdered wheat bran, 1 pound; powdered
orris, 2 ounces. Mix and sift. v paste.
1103. Poudre Noir for the Hair. 1115.
Starch and orris in fine powder, each 8
ounces; charcoal and ivory black, in fine
powder, each 1 ounce. Mix and sift.
1104. Poudre Blonde for the Hair.
Finely powdered starch and orris, 8 ounces
each; as in the preceding, but with yellow
ochre for the coloring matter.
1105. Poudre a la Vanille Brune for
the Skin or for Sachets. Powdered vanilla,
rose-leaves, lump storax, benzoin, rhodium,
pallisandre and ebony woods, each 1 pound ;
powdered cloves, 2 ounces; powdered musk,
2 drachms. Mix together with 3 pounds of
starch ; sift, and add a few drops of extracts
of tuberose and jasmin.
1106. Poudre a PCEillet Composee—
for the Skin or Sachets. Powdered rose
leaves and orris root, each 3 pounds; pow-
dered bergamot peel, 1 pound ; powdered
cloves and cinnamon, each 6 ounces ; pow-
dered acacia and orange flowers, each 8
ounces ; starch, 3 pounds.
1 107. Paints or Rouges for the Skin.
Paints or rouges are the means by which the
natural color of the skin may be heightened
or changed. They are, however, objectionable
preparations, and the use of them extends
very little beyond the theatres, where they
are employed to produce stage effect.
1108. French White. This is the min-
eral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and
bolted. It forms the basis of the most harm-
less rouges. Perfume is added as may be
desired.
1109. Pearl White. Pure oxide or
subnitrate of bismuth in powder. This pig-
ment darkens in atmospheres containing sul-
phide of hydrogen. 1 ounce triturated with
4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid
white for theatrical use.
1110. Pearl Powder. Precipitated
chalk finely bolted and perfumed. The
French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each
1 ounce to the pound of chalk.
1111. Caution against Bismuth as a
Cosmetic. The continued use of bismuth-
white injures the skin, and ultimately pro-
duces paralysis of its minute vessels, render-
ing it yellow and leather-like — an effect which,
unfortunately, those who employ it generally
attempt to conceal by its freer and more fre-
tion of gum tragacanth. For lighter shades,
the proportion of carmine must be diminished.
For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the
carmine as coloring matter. It may be made
into a pomade.
1113. Bloom of Roses. Powdered
carmine of the best quality, 2 drachms, di-
gested with strong ammonia, 4 ounces, in a
tightly stoppered bottle for 2 days, at the
ordinary temperature of the atmosphere.
Then add rose water, 1 pint ; and essence of
rose, 4 ounces. After standing for a week to
settle, the clear liquid may be poured off
from the sediment, and bottled.
1114. Azure Paste. Talc and ultra-
marine, finely bolted, equal parts, triturated
with a solution of gum tragacauth into a stiff
Enamel Powder. Take equal
parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and
pearl-white; sufficient rouge or carmine to
slightly tinge it ; mix. Used to conceal dis-
colorations ; and, without the coloring, to
whiten the skin.
/Cosmetics for the
Complexion.
quent application.
1112. Carmine Rouge.
Skin
The pre-
parations under this" head are designed to
soften the skin and beautify the complexion.
We annex receipts for the more important.
The heating medium in the manufacture of
them must be either a water or steam bath.
1117. To Make Amandine. Put into
a large marble mortar 2 ounces gum arable,
and 6 ounces white honey; triturate, and
when the mixture has been rubbed into a
thick paste, add 3 ounces perfectly neutral
almond shaving cream. (See ^0.602.) Then
continue the trituration until the mixture has
become homogeneous. 2 pounds of fresh
cold-pressed sweet almond oil are next allowed
to flow from a can above into the mortar, but
only as rapidly as it can be incorporated with
the mass ; otherwise, if it enters in too large
quantities, the blending is imperfect, and
the amandine becomes oily instead of jelly-
like and transparent, as it should be when the
manipulation has been skillful. In summer
temperatures it will be difficult to effect a
combination of all the oil ; and, therefore, the
flow should be stopped as soon as the mixture
becomes bright and assumes a crystalline lus-
tre. The perfume should be mixed with the
almond oil, and consists of ^ drachm attar of
bitter almonds to every pound of paste. A
little attar of rose and bergamot may also be
added — about 1 drachm of each. As soon as
finished it must be put in close pots.
1118. To TJse Amandine. To produce
amandine of fine quality is a matter of
some difficulty and labor, and requires ex-
perience and considerable manipular skill.
The details essential to success are noticed
under " Emulsions." (See No. 43.) A small
quantity, say a lump of filbert size, gives with
warm water a rich lather, which, when rubbed
over the face and hands, imparts softness, and
prevents chapping. It should be wiped off
Finely bolted
talc, 4 ounces; carmine, 2 drachms. Mix
together with a little warm and dilute solu-
while still in lather, with a dry towel.
1119. Glycerine Amandine. As the
preceding, but adding, with the shaving
cream, J to 1 ounce of Price's glycerine for
COSMETICS.
121
every pound of oil intended to be subsequently
added.
1120. Colored Amandine. Amandine
may be colored green with, spinach-leaves,
and yellow and orange with palm oil or an-
notto, by digesting or dissolving the sub-
stances in the oil before adding the scents. A
beautiful scarlet or crimson may be given to
it by adding a little liquid rouge or carmine
(ammoniacal), just before removing it from the
mortar. Olivine is a similar preparation to
amandine, but made with olive-oil. It is
often colored green.
1121. Cosmetic Balsam of Honey.
Take finest pale honey, 4 ounces (avoirdupois);
glycerine (Price's), 1 ounce; unite by a gentle
heat; when cold, add rectified spirit, 1 fluid
ounce (Imperial); essence of ambergris, 6
drops ; and at once bottle it. Used to soften
and whiten the skin, prevent chaps, <fcc.
1122. Freckle Balsam. To the balsam
of honey prepared as directed in the last re-
ceipt, add pure citric acid, 3 drachms. Used
to prevent and remove freckles and discolora-
tions.
1 1 23. Almond Paste. Reduce blanched
almonds to a very smooth paste by patiently
pounding them in a marble mortar, adding
gradually, toward the end, a little rose-water,
or orange-flower water, with a few drops of
attar of roses or neroli, or a little eau de Co-
logne, or other perfume, at will. Lastly, put
the paste into covered porcelain pots or jars.
1124. Bitter Almond Paste. Take
equal parts bitter almonds and sweet almonds;
and rose-water, a sufficient quantity ; and pro-
' ceed as before. No scent need be added.
Both the preceding are occasionally diversified
by the addition of either powdered spermaceti
in weight equal to about -J- part of that of the
almonds, or of \ this weight of white soap.
Sometimes the white of an egg is added.
1125. Cold Cream. Take 1 ounce avoir-
dupois each pure white wax and spermaceti,
and i Imperial pint oil of almonds; melt,
pour the mixture into a marble or wedg-
wood-ware mortar (or a porcelain basin),
which has been heated by being immersed
for some time in boiling water; add, very
gradually, of rose-water, 4 fluid ounces ; and
assiduously stir the mixture \mtil an emulsion
is formed, and afterwards until the whole is
very nearly cold, Lastly, put it into porce-
lain or earthenware pots for use or sale.
1126. Hudson's Cold Cream. This is
prepared in the same way as the above, with
the addition of 1 fluid ounce orange-flower
water.
1127. Sultana Cold Cream. Take i
ounce avoirdupois each, pure spermaceti and
white wax ; almond-oil, and butter of cacao,
each J pound ; melt, and stir in of balsam of
Peru, 2 drachms. After repose, pour off the
clear portion, add orange-flower water, 2 Im-
perial fluid drachms, and stir it briskly until it j
concretes. Used like cold cream, lip-salve, &c.
1128. Creme de Cathay. Melt together
over a water bath, white wax and spermaceti,
each 2 drachms ; then add oil of sweet al-
monds, 4 ounces, and Mecca balsam, 3
drachms; next perfume with rose-water, 6
drachms ; stir until cold.
1129. Glycerine Cream. This superior
cosmetic is the well-known cold-cream, (see
No. 1125), with glycerine substituted for rose-
water. Melt together spermaceti, 6 ounces;
and white wax, 1 ounce, in 1 pound of sweet
almond oil. Then remove from the fire, and
stir in Price's glycerine, 4 ounces ; and when
congealing, perfume with attar of rose, 20
drops. Other attars may be used as desired,
in place of rose.
1130. Hose Glycerine Cream. Sper-
maceti, i ounce ; oil of sweet almonds, 2
ounces; white wax, 1 ounce; glycerine, 4
ounces : mix the spermaceti, white wax and
oil of almonds together first ; then add the
glycerine and stir the mixture until cool.
Perfume with attar of rose.
1131. Snow Cream. Melt 3 ounces
spermaceti, 2 ounces white wax, and 12
ounces fresh oil of almonds, in a water-bath ;
pour it into a marble mortar, and stir briskly
to prevent granulation ; when of the consist-
ence of butter, triturate until the mixture has
a white, creamy appearance ; then, during con-
tinued trituration, add by degrees a mixture
of 1 ounce double water of roses and 1 ounce
odorless glycerine; incorporate for 20 minutes,
and add 10 drops essence of roses ; beat for
about half an hour, put into pots or jars, and
close air-tight.
1132. Fine Camphor Ice. Melt to-
gether over a water-bath, white wax and
spermaceti, each 1 ounce ; camphor, 2 ounces ;
in sweet almond oil, 1 pound. Next, triturate
in the manner directed for amandine, and
allow 1 pound of rose-water to flow in slowly
during the operation. Then perfume with
attar of rosemary, 1 drachm. An inferior and
cheaper quantity may be made as follows : —
1133. Camphor Ice. Oil of sweet al-
monds, 2 ounces ; spermaceti, 4 ounces ; white
wax, 2 ounces ; camphor, i ounce ; melt
them over a water-bath, run in moulds of
proper size and form.
1134. Pate d'Amande au Miel. Eub
together 1 pound honey and the yolks of 8
eggs ; then gradually add sweet almond oil, 1
pound, during constant trituration, and
work in bitter almonds — blanched and ground
to meal, 8 ounces ; finally perfume with attars
of bergamot and cloves, each 2 drachms.
1135. Pomade Rosat. Melt together
white wax, 2 ounces ; oil of sweet almonds,
4 ounces; alkanet, 3 drachms. Digest for
several hours, strain, and add 12 drops attar
of rose ; used for the lips.
1136. Cacao Pomade. Take of cacao
butter, oil of almonds, white wax (pure),
equal parts ; melt them together, and stir
until nearly cold. Used as an emollient skin-
cosmetic, particularly for chapped lips, hands,
&c. It is sometimes colored with a little
palm-oil. Scent may be added at will. It is
highly esteemed by some persons as a hair
pomade.
1137. Creme de Psyche— for the Lips.
"White wax and spermaceti, each 1 ounce ; oil
of sweet almonds, 5 ounces. Melt together,
and pour in Mecca balsam, 1 drachm ; and
stir until the mass congeals, then add 10
grains powdered acetate of lead.
1138. Lait Virginal. Orange-flower
water, 8 ounces; and tincture of benzoin, 2
drachms. The former is added very slowly to
the latter during constant trituration, so as
to produce an opalescent milky fluid.
122
COSMETICS.
1139. Creme de Pistache. Pistachio
nuts, 3 ounces; green oil, palm soap, wax,
and spermaceti, each 1 ounce ; orange-flower
water, 3£ pints ; essence of neroli, 12 ounces ;
make as directed for the preceding milks.
1140. Milk of Hoses. Place over a
water-bath, oil soap, 1 ounce ; and melt it in
5 or 6 ounces rose-water; then add white
wax and spermaceti, 1 ounce, and continue
the heat until they have melted. Next take
1 pound blanched almonds, beat them to a
meal in a clean marble mortar, with 3-J pints
rose-water, admitted portionwise, during the
trituration. (See No. 43.) The emulsion of
almonds, thus made, is to be strained without
pressure through washed white muslin, and
run very slowly into the previously formed
soap-mixture; the whole being blended at
the same time by energetic trituration. To-
wards the end of this operation, 2 drachms
attar of rose, dissolved in 8 ounces inodorous
alcohol, are to be let into the mixture very
gradually, and in a thin stream, during con-
stant rubbing of the mass. This cautious
manipulation is indispensable to the smooth-
ness and perfection of the milk. (See No.
43.) The last operation is to strain; and,
after the liquid has had a day's repose, to
bottle it. This is a highly esteemed cosmetic
for the skin and complexion. Milk of cucum-
bers may be made in the same manner as
milk of roses, by substituting juice of cucum-
bers for rose-water.
1141. Lotion for Freckles. Take
bichloride of mercury, 6 grains avoirdupois ;
pure hydrochloric acid, specific gravity 1.15,
1 Imperial fluid drachm ; distilled water, j
pint ; mix, and add rectified spirit and eau de
rose, each 2 fluid ounces ; Price's glycerine, 1
ounce.
1142. Lotion to Remove Freckles.
Dissolve 3 grains borax in 5 drachms each
rose-water, and orange-flower water; a very
simple and harmless remedy is equal parts of
pure glycerine and rose-water, applied every
night, and allowed to dry.
1143. Iodine Lotion for Eruptions
of the Skin. Take iodide of potassium, 30
grains avoirdupois; iodine, 15 grains; dis-
tilled or soft water, 1 Imperial pint ; add only
a couple of table-spoonfuls of the water at
first, and when by agitation the solids are
dissolved, add the remainder. This is the
common and best form of ioduretted lotion or
wash for ordinary purposes. It is often
serviceable in enlarged and indurated glands,
itch, &c. Or : take iodide of potassium, 1 to 2
drachms, and distilled water, 1 pint ; dissolve.
1144. Glycerinated Lotion of Iodide
of Potassium. To the last add 1 ounce
Price's glycerine. Both are excellent skin-
cosmetics, employed like Gowland's lotion
particularly for persons with a scrofulous or
scorbutic taint, or who are troubled with
eruptions, swellings, or indurations arising
from it. It is also excellent as a hair- wash.
The product of the last formula may be ad-
vantageously used instead of hair-oil.
1145. Lotion of Bichloride of Mer-
cury. Take corrosive sublimate (in coarse
powder), 10 grains avoirdupois ; distilled wa-
ter. 1 Imperial pint; agitate them together
until solution be complete. The addition of
5 or 6 grains hydrochlorate of ammonia (pure
sal-ammoniac) or 5 or 6 drops (not more)
hydrochloric acid, increases the solvent action
of the water, and renders the preparation less
liable to surfer change, but is not otherwise
advantageous. When absolutely pure dis-
tilled water is not used, this addition of acid
should be made to prevent decomposition.
Some persons dissolve the sublimate in 2 or 3
fluid drachms rectified spirit before adding
the water, to facilitate the process ; but this
also, though convenient, is unnecessary.
Apart from its value as a cosmetic, the above
lotion is an excellent application in a variety
of obstinate eruptions, and in obstinate sores
and glandular swellings and indurations of a
minor character; the first of which it seldom
fails to relieve, provided the bowels and diet
be carefully attended to, and sufficient exer-
cise be taken daily. Ordinary mild cases of
itch rapidly disappear under its use. The
addition of about 1 ounce pure glycerine con-
verts it into a lotion admirably adapted to
allay itching and irritation generally, as well
as into one of the best cosmetic washes known.
For the latter purpose, a little pure rose water
or orange-flower water may be added, at will,
to give it fragrance ; a like quantity of distill-
ed water, in the case of any of the above
additions, being omitted.
1146. Eau de Beaute. Bichloride of
mercury (corrosive sublimate), 8 grains ;
camphor, 10 grains ; sulphate of zinc, and
solution of lead (liquor of acetate of lead),
each 2 scruples; rose water 5± ounces; and
the yolk of a small egg. This mixture is
regularly in use by Creole ladies for beautify-
ing their skin.
1147. Glycerine Lotion. Take Price's
glycerine, 1 ounce, and distilled or pure soft
water, 19 ounces ; mix. A good strength for
daily use as a cosmetic wash, or as a .vehicle
for other ingredients, for which purpose it is
greatly preferable to milk of almonds ; also
as a lotion to allay itching and irritation of
the skin, prevent chaps, excoriations, the
effects of weather, climate, (fee. It is like-
wise applied to the hair instead of oil.
1148. Glycerine Lotion N9. 2. Take of
Price's glycerine, 1 ounce, and distilled water,
17 ounces; mix. A proper strength when more
marked effects are desired; as in chapped
hands, lips, and nipples, obstinate excoria-
tions, abrasions, chatings, sunburns, persistent
roughness or hardness of the skin, &e.
1149. Glycerine Lotion No. 3. Take
of Price's glycerine, 3 ounces ; water, 17
ounces; mix. This is adapted for use in
obstinate cases, or when still more rapid
effects are desired ; also as an application to
burns and scalds. ,
1150. Fragrant Glycerine Lotions.
Any of the foregoing glycerine lotions may be
rendered fragrant and more agreeable by em-
ploying rose water or elder-flower water, in-
stead of water, or by the addition of a little
eau de Cologne, lavender water, or other
scent, at will. The addition of a few drops of
essence of musk or of ambergris, per pint, or
of a couple of ounces of eau de rose or eau
de fleurs d'oranges, in lieu of an equal bulk of
water, imparts a delicate odor which is always
highly esteemed. In like manner they may
be medicated or increased in efficacy, in
various ways, for toilet and personal use.
COSMETICS.
123
Thus, the addition of a little borax (2 or 3
drachms per pint), renders them more effect-
ive in chaps, excoriations, <fcc.; a little salt of
tartar, or of lemon j uice, vinegar, or rectified
spirit, increases their power of allaying itching
and morbid irritability in skin-diseases, as
well as converts No. 1 (more particularly) in-
to an excellent wash for freckles and like dis-
colorations. 8 or 10 grains of bichloride of
mercury, per pint, converts it into the ad-
mirable lotion of that substance. (See No.
1145.) In like manner, by the addition of a
drachm or so of iodide of potassium, or of
compound tincture of iodine, we have a
healthful cosmetic wash particularly service-
able to persons with a scrofulous taint.
Strongly scent it with the oils of origanum
and rosemary, or impregnate it with a certain
proportion of cantharides, or some other ap-
propriate stimulant and rubefacient, and we
have respectively the most cleanly, convenient,
and useful hair cosmetics. Indeed, merely to
enumerate all the uses it may be placed to in
the cosmetic and allied treatment of the per-
son, would alone fill many pages.
1151. To Test the Purity of Glycer-
ine. Glycerine weighed at the temperature
of 60° Fahrenheit should have no less than
29° B. ; if it contains lime or alkalies, one
degree should be deducted, as these substances
make it heavier.
Rubbed on the hand, it should be perfectly
inodorous. Impure glycerine, under this test,
has a disagreeable smell. The impurity caus-
ing this odor is mostly butyric ucid, as by
contact with the glycerine it forms a very
volatile glycerole. Such an article will al-
ways grow worse by age.
The presence of chlorine, sometimes used
for bleaching glycerine, is detected by tinging
the sample blue with sulphate of indigo, and
then adding a little sulphuric acid; if free
chlorine, or chloride of calcium, be present,
the blue color will disappear.
If a few drops of a solution of nitrate of
silver be added to glycerine, the presence of
chlorine is marked by the formation of a white
precipitate.
Oxalate of ammonia will precipitate lime, if
present. Lead will be detected in the same
way by hydrosulphate of ammonia ; and sul-
phuric acid by a soluble salt of baryta.
Cane sugar may be traced by increased
sweetness of taste; also by dissolving the
glycerine in chloroform, in which it is com-
pletely soluble if pure, sugar being insoluble
in it.
1 1 52. Caution About Glycerine. The
property which has caused most annoyance
in the use of glycerine is its strong affinity
for water. Although glycerine has a pleas-
ant, sweetish taste, yet the first sensation that
is fait when it is applied to the tongue is one
of paiu and burning. This is caused by the
fact that the glycerine absorbs all the mois-
ture from the surface that it touches, and thus
dries it up and parches the nerves. Ignorant
of this fact, nurses and mothers have applied
pure glycerine to the chafed skin of infants,
and produced great pain. The glycerine
ought to have been first mixed with an equal
bulk of water, or at least with so much as
would remove its burning action on the sense
of taste. This being done, it may be applied
to the most tender surfaces without produc-
ing injury, and as it does not dry up, virtually
maintains the parts in a constantly moist con-
dition, excluding the air and promoting the
healing process.
1153. Fine Glycerine Lotion. Gly-
cerine, 3 fluid ounces ; quince-seed mucilage,
(see next receipt), 10 fluid drachms; pulverized
cochineal, 5 grains ; hot water, 1 k fluid ounces ;
inodorous alcohol, 2 j fluid ounces ; oil of rose,
8 drops ; pulverized gum-arabic ; k. drachm ;
water, 8 fluid ounces. Rvfb the powdered
cochineal first with the hot water gradually
added, and then add the alcohol. Then
triturate the oil of rose well with the pow-
dered gum-arabic, and gradually add the wa-
ter as in making emulsion. (Sec No. 43.)
"With this mix well the solution first formed,
and filter, and to the filtered liquid add the
glycerine and mucilage of quince seeds, and
shake well. The mucilage of quince seeds
should always be freshly made. If the alco-
hol is sweet and free from foreign odor, and
the glycerine perfectly inodorous, a less
quantity of oil of rose may suffice. If care is
taken in its manufacture, this will form a
beautiful and elegant preparation, with a rich
rosy fragrance. When applied to the skin it
imparts an agreeably soft, smooth, and velvety
feel. It is an excellent application for the
face after shaving, or for allaying the irritation
caused by exposure to the wind.
1154. Quince Mucilage. The mucilage
of quince seeds may be made by boiling for
10 minutes 1 drachrn quince seeds in k pint
water, and straining. This is sometimes used
as a bandoline, but it soon decomposes, and,
therefore for that purpose, only very small
quantities should be prepared.
1155. Gowland's Lotion. The formula
sanctioned by the medical profession is to take
of Jordan almonds (blanched), 1 ounce; bit-
ter almonds, 2 to 3 drachms ; distilled water,
4 pint; form them into an emulsion. To the
strained emulsion, with agitation, gradually
add of bichloride of mercury (in coarse pow-
der), 15 grains previously dissolved in dis-
tilled water, 5 pint. After which further add
enough water to make the whole measure ex-
actly 1 pint. Then put it in bottles. This is
used as a cosmetic by wetting the skin with
it, and gently wiping off with a dry cloth. It
is also employed as a wash for obstinate
eruptions and minor glandular swellings and
indurations.
1156. Lotion of Borax, for Sore Gums
and Nipples. Take 5 drachms powdered
borax; distilled water, k pint; mix. An ef-
fective wash for sore gums, sore nipples,
excoriations, <fec., applied twice or thrice daily,
or oftener.
1157. Glycerinated Lotion of Borax
for Chaps and Sunburns. Take G drachms
avoirdupois powdered borax; Price's glycerine.
J ounce ; rose-water or elder-flower water, 12
ounces ; mix. Resembles the last, but is fra-
grant and much more agreeable and effective.
Its daily use as a cosmetic wash renders the skin
beautifully soft and white, and prevents and
removes chaps, sunburns, <fec.
1158. Cazenave's Lotion of Cyanide
of Potassium. Take cyanide of potassium,
5 grains avoirdupois ; emulsion of bitter-
almonds, 3 Imperial fluid ounces; dissolve.
COSMETICS.
Used like the last, to allay itching and irrita-
tion, particularly after shaving; also for frec-
kles and pustules. (See No. 43.) The above
is Cazenave's formula. The next receipt is,
however, preferable,
1 1 59. Glycerinated Lotion of Cyanide
of Potassium. Take cyanide of potassium,
6 grains avoirdupois ; glycerine, $ ounce ;
strongest camphor- water, 2k ounces; mix.
(See No. 1160.)
1160. Caution Against Cyanide of
Potassium. Cyanide of potassium is highly
poisonous when swallowed, and as the above
lotions are pleasant-tasted, they should not
be left out of the dressing-case ; nor should a
larger quantity than that above given be kept
in use at once ; nor, under ordinary circum-
stances, should they be applied to a large
surface at a time. If not kept under lock
and key, it is safest to label them Poison.
Kept with care, and properly employed, they
are safe and useful lotions.
1161. Cherry-Laurel Lotion, or Shav-
ing Wash. Take genuine distilled cherry-
laurel, 2 Imperial fluid ounces; rectified spirit,
1 fluid ounce ; glycerine, i ounce ; distilled
water, 7£ fluid ounces ; mix. Used to allay
irritation of the skin, particularly after shav-
ing, the part being moistened with it by
means of the tips of the fingers ; also used as
a wash for freckles and pustules, and to re-
move excessive moistness or greasiness of the
hair. Milk of bitter- almonds is often substi-
tuted for the glycerine and spirit, but not for
the hair.
1162. Glycerine and Borax Lotion
for the Complexion. Mix h ounce powdered
borax, and 1 ounce pure glycerine, with 1
quart camphor- water. "Wet the face morning
and evening with this lotion, allowing it to
dry partially, and then rinse off with soft
•water.
1163. Pomade de Ninon de 1'Enclos.
Take of oil of almonds, 4 ounces avoirdupois ;
hog's lard, 3 ounces ; spermaceti, 1 ounce ;
melt, add of expressed juice of house-leek, 3
Imperial fluid ounces, and stir until the mix-
ture solidifies by cooling. A few drops of
esprit de rose, or of eau de Cologne, or lavan-
de, may be added to scent it at will. Used
as a general skin-cosmetic; also for wrinkles
and freckles. It is said to bo very softening,
cooling, and refreshing.
1164. Pomade de Beaut e; Pomade
de Venus. Take of oil of almonds, 1 pound;
spermaceti (pure), 2 ounces ; white wax
(pure), li ounces; glycerine (Price's), 1 ounce;
balsam of Peru, i ounce; mix by a gentle
heat, and stir the mass until it begins to so-
lidify. It is sold either white, or tinted of a
delicate rose or green color. Used both as a
hair and skin cosmetic. It forms an elegant
substitute for ordinary cold-cream, lip-salve,
&c., and is much recommended by the makers
for improving the quality and promoting the
growth of the hair.
1165. Shaving Paste; Pate pour
Faire la Barbe. Take of Maples-soap (genu-
ine), 4 ounces; curd-soap (air-dried and pow-
dered), 2 ounces; .honey (finest), 1 ounce;
essence of ambergris (or essence royale), oil
of cassia, oil of nutmeg, of each 10 drops;
beat them to a smooth paste with water or
eau de rose ; and put it into covered pots.
(See Nos. 602, $c., and 607.)
1166. Shaving Paste. Take of white
soft-soap (see No. 600), 4 ounces; honey-soap
(finest, sliced), 2 ounces ; olive-oil, 1 ounce ;
water, 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls ; carbonate of
soda, 2 drachms; melt them together, and
form a paste, as before, adding a little proof
spirit and scent, at will. Some persons melt
with the soap about 1 drachm of spermaceti.
1 167. Colored Collodion for the Skin.
1 ounce collodion, 3 grains each pure annotto
and dragon's blood ; digest, with agitation, in
a stoppered phial, for 24 hours ; and, if neces-
sary, decant the clear portion.
1168. Flesh Colored Collodion. 2
ounces collodion ; 1 drachm palm oil ; alkauet,
15 grains ; digest, <fcc., as in the last receipt.
This dries of a good skin color ; but it is not
so strong as the product of the preceding
formula.
1169. Glycerinized Collodion may be
obtained by substituting 2 drachms of glycer-
ine for the palm oil in the preceding receipt.
This is exceedingly supple, does not crack
or scale off from the skin, and accommodates
itself to the motions of the part.
1170. Peruvian, or Red Lip Salve.
Take of spermaceti ointment, k pound ; alka-
net root, 3 or 4 drachms ; digest, at a gentle
heat, until the first has acquired a rich deep
red color, then pass it through a coarse strain-
er. "Wlien the liquid fat has cooled a little,
stir in thoroughly 3 drachms balsam of Peru.
In a few minutes pour off' the clear portion
from the dregs (if any), and add 20 to 30 drops
oil of cloves. Lastly, before it cools, pour it
into the pots or boxes. The product forms the
finest and most esteemed lip salve. 2 or 3
drops of essence of ambergris, or of essence
royale, improve and vary it.
1171. Rose Lip Salve. As the above,
but using only 1^ drachms balsam of Peru,
and replacing the oil of cloves with a few
drops of attar of roses, or sufficient to give the
mixture a marked odor of roses. Some ma-
kers omit the balsam altogether. If uncol-
ored, it forms white rose lip salve. (See No.
1135.
1 1 72. White Lip Salve. Take £ pound
spermaceti ointment, liquify it by the heat of
warm water, and stir in -J drachm neroli or
essence de petit-grain as before.
1173. Glycerine Lip Salve. This is
prepared by adding £ to i part of glycerine to
any one of the above whilst in the melted
state, and stirring the mixture assiduously
until it begins to cool.
1174. French Lip Salve. Mix togeth-
er 16 ounces lard, 2 ounces white wax, nitre
and alum in fine powder, of each, ^ ounce ;
alkanet to color.
1175. German .Lip Salve. Butter of
cacao, -j- ounce ; oil of almonds, J ounce ;
melt together with a gentle heat, and add 6
drops essence of lemon.
1176. Gants Cosmetiques. These are
white kid gloves, which have been turned in-
side out, and brushed over with a melted
compound of wax, oil, lard, balsam, <fcc.
The Peruvian lip palve (see No. 1170) without
the alkanet, may answer the purpose. An
excellent method for softening the hands.
WASHES FOE FAILING HAIE OB BALDNESS. 125
Price's) ; strongest eau de Cologne, } Impe-
ial pint; liquor of ammonia (specific gravity
180-882), 1 fluid drachm; oil of origanum and
dl of rosemary, each, | fluid drachm; tincture of
.antharides, 1 fluid ounce; briskly agitate
hem together for 8 or 10 minutes, then add k
)int strongest camphor water, and again well
igitate. A few drops of essence of musk are
aften added. An excellent hair lotion, and
ine that supersedes the necessity of using oil
or pomade.
1182. Erasmus "Wilson's Hair Wash.
Take 8 Imperial fluid ounces strongest eau de
Cologne; tincture of cantharides, 1 fluid
ounce ; English oil of lavender, and oil of
•osemary, each, i fluid drachm; mix. It is
mproved by the addition of £ fluid drachm
oil of origanum, or by its substitution for the
oil of lavender; but the omission of the latter
renders it less odorous.
1183. Parisian Wash to Gradually
Darken the Hair. Take of green sulphate
of iron, 15 to 20 grains ; distilled verdigris, 5
or 6 grains ; good white wine, i Imperial pint ;
perfume with eau de Cologne to suit; mix. A
Favorite among the fashionable Parisians.
The above will iron-mould linen if permitted
to come in contact with it.
1 184. Wash to Gradually Darken the
Hair. Take of sulphate of iron (green,
crushed), 2 drachms avoirdupois ; rectified
spirit, 1 Imperial fluid ounce ; oil of rosemary,
10 or 12 drops ; pure soft water, £ pint ; agi-
tate them together until solution and mixture
are complete. Many persons substitute the
strongest old ale for the water ordered above.
(See No. 1183.)
1185. Wash to Darken the Hair.
Take of rust of iron, 2 drachms avoirdupois ;
old ale (strongest), 1 Imperial pint; oil of
rosemary, 12 to 15 drops ; put them into a
bottle, very loosely cork it, agitate it daily for
10 or 12 days, and then, after repose, decant
the clear portion for use. (See No. 1183.)
1186. Wash for Dry, Stubborn Hair.
The best and most effective of these consists
of H ounces avoirdupois glycerine dissolved in
1 Imperial pint of any fragrant distilled wa-
ter, as that of roses, or orange or elder flow-
ers ; 15 to 20 grains salt of tartar (carbonate
of potassa) per pint, is sometimes added.
1187. Wash to Cleanse the Hair and
Scalp. 1 tea-spoonful powdered borax ; 1 ta-
ble-spoonful spirits of hartshorn ; 1 quart soft
water. Mix all together and apply to the
head with a soft sponge ; then rub the head
well with a dry towel. Use once a week.
Another excellent method of cleansing the
hair, is to take the yolk of an egg, and rub it
in thoroughly a little at a time. It will pro-
duce a slight soapy lather, which should be
rinsed out with soft water. This leaves the
scalp perfectly clean, and the hair soft and
silky.
1188. Barbers' Shampoo Mixture.
Shampooing is a term used for cleansing the
head and hair. Salts of tartar (carbonate of
potassa) is the principal article used by bar-
bers for this purpose. Dissolve 1 ounce salts
of tartar in 1 quart soft water; sprinkle freely
on the head and rub well till a lather is formed ;
wash off with clean water. Bay rum can then
be used if desired.
1189. Shampoo Liquor. Salts ot tar-
•\"X rashes for FailingHair
VV Or BaldlleSS. Liniments or
washes to make the hair grow, can always be
employed, with greater or less success, so long
as there is any vitality left in the hair follicles
or roots. If, however, these are entirely dead
or destroyed, there is no possibility of induc-
ing a fresh growth of hair. This will be evi-
dent from the shining or glistening appearance
the scalp assumes when the hair roots are de-
stroyed. The loosening of the hair, which
frequently occurs to young persons, or those
of the middle period of life, will generally, if ne-
glected, become real baldness. Such a state is
common in women, and generally terminates,
in its mildest form, in excessive loosening of
the hair. The case, however, is not the hope-
less one which is generally imagined; and i
proper treatment be pursued, the hair will
grow afresh, and assume its pristine strength.
A useful practice in men, and those of the op-
posite sex whose hair is short, is to immerse
the head in cold water morning and night, dry
the hair thoroughly, and then brush the scalp,
until a warm glow is produced. For women
with long hair, this plan is objectionable ; and
a better one is to brush the scalp until redness
and a warm glow are produced, then dab
among the roots of the hair one or other of
the hair lotions. If the lotion produce smart-
ing or tenderness, the brush may be laid aside,
but if no sensation is occasioned, the brushing
should be resumed, and a second application
of the lotion made. This treatment should be
practiced once or twice a day, or at intervals
of a few days, according to the state of the
scalp : namely, if tender, less ; if insensible,
more frequently. When the baldness happens
in patches, the skin should be well brushed
with a soft tooth brush, dipped in distilled vin-
egar morning and evening, or dipped in one of
the washes given below. If either of these lo-
tions should be found too irritating to the skin
use them in smaller quantity, or diluted, anc
less frequently. If they have the effect o'
making the hair harsh and dry, this incon
venience may be removed by the use of oil or
pomatum after each application of the lotion
Pomatums for the growth of the hair are very
inferior to the lotions in efficacy. The basip
of most hair invigorators and restorers is eith
er the tincture or the vinegar of cantharides
the method of preparing the latter ingredien
is given in the next receipt.
1178. To Prepare Vinegar of Can
tharides. This • preparation is not always
obtainable in the drug stores, and is made by
macerating, with agitation for 8 days, 2 ounce
powdered cantharides iu 1 pint acetic acid
then press and strain.
1179. Wash for Restoring Hair
Mix i ounce vinegar of cantharides with 1
ounce eau de Cologne and 1 ounce rose water
Or, 4 ounce tincture of cantharides, 2 ounce
eau de Cologne, i drachm oil of nutmeg, and
10 drops oil of lavender.
1180. Morfit's Hair Toinc. Scald black
tea, 2 ounces, with 1 gallon boiling water
strain, and add 3 ounces glycerine; tmctur
cantharides, i ounce ; and bay rum 1 quart
Mix well by shaking and then perfume.
1181. Regenerative Glycerine Hai
Wash. Take 1 ounce, avoirdupois, glycerin
126
HAIR DYES.
tar, 4 ounces ; pulverized borax, 4 ounces ;
soft water, 1 gallon. Mix, and bottle for use.
1190. Fine Shampoo Liquor. This
excellent wash for the hair is made by dissolv-
ing 5 ounce carbonate of ammonia and 1
ounce borax in 1 quart water, and adding
thereto 2 ounces glycerine, 3 quarts New
England rum, and 1 quart bay rum. The hair,
having been moistened with this liquor, is
to be shampooed with the hands until a slight
lather is formed ; and the latter being then
washed out with clear water, leaves the head
clean, and the hair moist and glossy.
1191. Hair Curling Liquid. Take
borax, 2 ounces ; gum-arabic, 1 drachm; add
hot water (not boiling), 1 quart; stir, and as
soon as the ingredients are dissolved add 3
table-spoonfuls strong spirits of camphor. On
retiring to rest wet the hair with the above
liquid, and roll it in twists of paper as usual.
1192. Curling Fluid for the Hair.
Take 1 ounce avoirdupois finest white gum-
arabic ; good moist sugar, £ ounce ; pure hot
water, J Imperial pint; dissolve. To the
solution, when cold, add 2 fluid ounces recti-
fied spirit ; corrosive sublimate and powdered
sal-ammoniac, each 6 grains ; the last two
being dissolved in the spirit before admixture.
Lastly, add enough water to make the whole
measure 1 pint, with a little esprit de rose,
eau de Cologne, or eau de lavande, to scent it.
The hair is moistened with the fluid before
putting it in papers or papillotes. or twisting
it with the fingers. Shake before using.
1193. Wild Rose Curling Fluid.
Take 2 drachms avoirdupois dry salt of tartar
(carbonate of potassa) ; powdered cochineal,
•J drachm ; liquor of ammonia and esprit de
rose, each 1 fluid drachm: glycerine, J ounce;
rectified spirit, 1£ Imperial fluid ounces; dis-
tilled water, 18 ounces ; digest, with agitation,
for a week, and then decant or filter. The
hair is moistened with it, and then loosely
adjusted. The effect occurs as it dries.
1194. Drying Washes for Moist,
Lax Hair. Take of essential oil of almonds.
1 Imperial fluid drachm ; oil of cassia, k fluid
drachm; essence of rnusk, i fluid drachm; rec-
tified spirit, 2i fluid ovinces ; mix, and add grad-
ually, with brisk agitation, 16 avoirdupois
ounces distilled water in which has been dis-
solved 1 ounce finest gum-arabic. The hair
and scalp are slightly moistened with the
liquid, and the hair at once arranged without
wiping, whilst still moist. Shake before using.
1195. Rose Bandoline. Steep 6 ounces
gum tragacanth for 30 hours in 1 gallon rose-
water, stirring frequently; strain through a
cloth, and let it stand for a few days; then
strain again and work into it 4 drachms oil of
roses. (See No. 1154.)
1196. Hair Gloss. Mix 1 pint spirit of
jasmin, and 5 drops aniline, with 4 pounds
pure glycerine.
1197. How to Dry a Lady's Hair.
The lady should recline on a lounge or a sola,
with her long hair hanging over the end. A
pan containing 2 or 3 bits of ignited charcoal
is then placed under it, and a little powdered
benzoin .sprinkled upon the lighted fuel. The
thick smoke which rises and is strongly im-
pregnated with benzole acid combined with
carbonic acid, rapidly absorbs the moisture in
the hair, which should be previously well
wiped with towels, so as to be as free from wet
as possible ; and in a . few seconds the hair is
perfectly dry, beautifully perfumed, and ready
for the operation of the brush.
Hair DyeS. The numerous pre-
parations vended, under different
names, as hair dyes, have generally a basis of
lead or silver, and possess a sameness of com-
position which scarcely occurs, to an equal
extent, in any other class of cosmetics. A
few, it is true, contain bismuth, crude pyro-
gallic acid, and certain astringent vegetable
juices, as their active ingredients ; but these
are only occasionally met with in the stores.
1199. Walnut Hair Dye. The simplest
form is the expressed juice of the bark or shell
of green walnuts. This is the venerable hair
dye of Paulus ^Egineta. To preserve this
juice, a little rectified spirit is commonly added
to it, with a few bruised cloves, and the whole
digested together, with occasional agitation,
for a week or fortnight, when the clear por-
tion is decanted, and, if necessary, filtered.
Sometimes a little common salt is added with
the same intention. It should be kept in a
cool place.
1200. Pyrogallic Hair Dye. Take of
Erogallic acid, i ounce ; dissolve it in hot
itilled water, li ounces; and, when the
solution has cooled, grachially add of rectified
spirit, i fluid ounce. It may be made a little
stronger or weaker at will.
1201. Beautiful Black Hair Dye.
This is composed of 2 different liquids. Take
6 drachms avoirdupois good recent sulphuret
of potassium ; distilled water, 2 Imperial fluid
ounces; liquor of potassa, li drachm; agitate
them together, after repose decant the clear
solution into a stoppered phial, and label the
bottle either Solution No. 1, or Tlie Mordant.
(Sec No. 93.) This solution does not stain
the skin, and is an effective and easily prepared
mordant. In some of the mordants sold in
the shops, the liquor of potassa is omitted.
To prepare the dye, next take 3 drachms
avoirdupois crystals of nitrate of silver ; dis-
tilled water, 2 Imperial fluid ounces ; dissolve
in a stoppered phial, and mark it either Solu-
tion No. 2, or The Dye. This is the average
strength of the best silver-dyes of the stores.
The strongest, intended to dye the hair black,
in a few cases are made with 2 drachms of
the nitrate to 1 fluid ounce of distilled water;
weaker ones, for brown, with only 1 drachm
of the nitrate to the fluid ounce. This solu-
tion stains the skin as well as the hair. These
solutions are usually put up in flat stoppered
phials, and one of each, handsomely labeled,
sold together in a case under various fanciful
names, for which a most extravagant price is
generally charged. They form the most con-
venient, effective, and expeditious hair dye
known, and the one now chiefly sold and
used by the large perfumers and hair-dressers.
Other nearly similar mordants are recom-
mended by different good authorities. A good
formula is: — Take of liquor of potassa, 3
fluid drachms; hydrosulphuret of ammonia,
7 fluid drachms; distilled water, 1 ounce; mix.
The method of using these liquids is given
in the following receipt :
HAIR DYES.
127
1202. Method of Using the Hair
Dye. The hair (perfectly clean) is first
thoroughly wetted to the roots with Solution
No. 1, previously diluted with 4 or 5 times its
hulk of pure water, or of the highest strength
that can he used without irritating the skin,
care being taken not to make the hair too wet,
as that would interfere with the next opera-
tion. A small brush is commonly used for
the purpose, and the action and absorption of
the mordant is promoted by the free applica-
tion of the former for a short time. After
the lapse of 2 to 5 minutes, the hair is
thoroughly but lightly moistened with the
dye, or Solution No. 2, by means of a small-
toothed comb, or what is more convenient, a
half-worn tooth brush, care being taken to
touch the skin as little as possible. Any
stains left on the skin by accidental contact
with the dye, are now removed by rubbing
them with a piece of rag or sponge, or the cor-
ner of a napkin wetted with a little of the
mordant previously diluted with water. After
the lapse of a few minutes, the skin is sponged
clean with a little warm water, and wiped
dry, and the hair arranged with the comb, in
the usual manner. It is better to avoid rub-
bing or washing the hair for a few hours.
Sometimes the two operations are reversed,
and the dye applied first. The color thus
produced is more permanent, but stains on
the skin are less easily removed. The whole
process, if expertly managed, may be com-
pleted in from 10 to 15 minutes.
1203. Hydrosulphate or Hydro-
' sulphuret of Ammonia (also called sul-
phuret or sulphide of ammonia), used as a
mordant in dyeing the hair with either silver
or lead, may be prepared as follows : — Take
of sulphur, 1 part ; fresh dry hydrate of lime,
2 parts ; boil in water sufficient to dissolve the
sulphur ; filter, and to the filtered liquid add
for every 8 parts of sulphur used, 33 parts of
sulphate of ammonia. After agitation and
repose, the clear supernatant liquid must be
decanted, and preserved in bottles. The pro-
duct contains traces of lime, which do not,
however, unfit it for use in the cosmetic art.
"When a salt of antimony is used to dye the
hair, the neutral hydrosulphuret of ammonia
should be employed, as, if the liquid contain
more sulphur than is necessary to neutralize
the ammonia, and it be used in excess, the
color at first produced is dissolved out and
washed away. But if this excess be avoided,
the bisulphuret gives the brightest color.
The neutral hydrosulphuret is prepared by
saturating strong liquor of ammonia with
sulphuretted hydrogen, and then adding a
second portion of liquor of ammonia equal
to that first used. (See No. 1201.)
1204. Bed Hair Dye. An acidulated
solution of a salt of antimony (a solution of
potassio-tartrate of antimony or tartar-emetic
1 to 16, acidulated with a little tartaric, citric,
or acetic acid, may be used), followed by a
weak mordant of neutral hydrosulphuret of
ammonia (see No. 1203), or the bisulphuret
(carefully avoiding excess) gives a red turning
on the orange, which tones well on light-brown
hair. A solution of sulphantimoniate of po-
tassa (Schlippe's salt) with a mordant of
water slightly acidulated with sulphuric, acid,
gives a bright orange-red or golden-red color.
1205. Bed Hair Dye. A strong infu-
sion of safflowers, or a solution of pure rouge,
in a weak solution of crystallized carboriate of
soda, gives a bright red like henna, or a red-
dish yellow, according to its strength, if fol-
lowed, when dry, by a mordant of lemon juice
or vinegar diluted with one-half to an equal
bulk of water.
1206. Blonde or Flaxen Hair Dye.
Mix in 10 ounces distilled water, 1 ounce ace-
tate of iron, 1 ounce nitrate of silver, and 2
ounces nitrate of bismuth ; moisten the hair
with this mixture, and, after an hour, touch it
with a mixture of equal parts of sulphide of
potassium and distilled water.
1207. Blonde Hair Dye. Another
method is by moistening the hair with a mix-
ture of 2 ounces protochloride of tin and 3
ounces hydrated lime. An hour after, use the
potassium solution as in last receipt.
1208. Golden Yellow Hair Dye. A
solution of bichloride of tin, sufficiently diluted,
followed by a mordant of hydrosulphuret of
ammonia (sec No. 1203), gives a rich golden
yellow tint to very light hair, and a golden
brown to darker hair, owing to the formation
of bisulphuret of tin.
1209. Bich Yellow Hair Dye. A so-
lution of acetate or nitrate of lead, followed
by a mordant of yellow chromate of potash,
gives a brilliant rich golden yellow. If want-
ed warmer or deeper toned, a few drops of so-
lution of diacetate of lead (Goulard's extract)
should be added to the acetate solution.
A solution of pure amiotto obtained by boil-
ing it in water slightly alkalized with carbon-
ate of soda, or with salt of tartar, gives a
golden yellow or flame yellow, according to
its strength, to very pale hair, and correspond-
ing tones to darker hair. A previous mordant
of alum-water deepens it, and a subsequent
washing with water soured with lemon juice
or vinegar reddens it or turns it on the
orange.
1210. Brilliant Yellow Hair Dye. A
solution of a neutral salt of iron (sulphate,
acetate, or chloride), followed by a weak solu-
tion of carbonate of soda, or salt of tartar, or
lime water, gives a warm yellow or nankeen
color, which, when deep, turns on the red. In
the latter case it is apt to assume a sandy shade
on very light hair.
1211. Brown Hair Dye. A ready way
to color the hair brown is by a solution of
permanganate of potassa in the proportion of 1
troy ounce to 1 quart of water. The hair
must be first cleansed by a dilute solution of
ammonia, when it is dried by means of a tow-
el, and the solution of the permanganate ap-
plied to the hair, but not to the skin, as this
would also be colored. It dyes the hair im-
mediately, and the desired shade may be ob-
tained by applying more or less of the solu-
tion. Should the hands become stained with
it, they can be cleaned with a little dilute hy-
drochloric acid. This dye is not permanent,
but is very easily renewed with a tooth-brush.
1212. Golden Brown Hair Dye.
Brown hair may have a golden tone imparted
to it by the judicious application of any of
the yellow dyes already noticed. Light hair
may be previously dyed of a warm light
brown before applying the latter. A so-
lution of sulphate of copper (blue vitriol)
128
DEPILATORIES.
followed by a solution of ferrocyanide of po-
tassium, gives an extremely rich golden brown
or bronze brown to light hair, when the pro-
cess is expertly managed.
1213. Cautions about Applying Hair
Dyes. The application of the above dyes,
so as to produce appropriate and agreeable
shades, requires more consideration and expe-
rience than that of the black dyes. The com-
plexion, and the natural color of the hair of
the person operated on, with other attendant
circumstances, must be carefully considered
beforehand, and allowed for. Unless all these
points be attended to, the party may, on look-
ing in the mirror, suddenly find himself
strangely altered in appearance, and probably
for the worse. Hair dyes of all kinds will
only act effectively and satisfactorily on per-
fectly clean hair. The presence or the slight-
est contamination of oily or greasy matter
will arrest or greatly lessen their action, and
render it unequal in different parts. Hence
the hair, in all cases, should be first thor-
oughly washed with warm soap and water,
then rinsed with tepid water, and lastly,
wiped dry previous to their application. A
few grains of soda or of salt of tartar (carbon-
ate of potassa) added to the first water, will
facilitate its detergent action
1214. To Bleach Hair. It has been
found in the case of bleaching hair that gaseous
chlorine is the most effectual. The hair should
be cleaned for this purpose by a warm solution
of soda, and washed afterwards with water.
While moist it is put into a jar and chlorine
gas introduced, until the air in the jar looks
greenish. Allow it to stand for 24 hours, and
if necessary repeat the operation. The em-
ployment of binoxide of hydrogen has been
often recommended for this purpose, it being
in every way superior to the other agents, but
it has the drawback of being difficult to pre-
pare.
1215. Lotions to Change the Color of
the Hair. A number of lotions are exten-
sively advertised, and sold under the name of
" Hair Restorers," " Hair Rejuvenators,"
" Life for the Hair," <fcc., which purport to re-
store the color and improve the growth of the
hair. The active agent in all these prepara-
tions is lead, combined with sulphur, and this,
by frequent application, darkens the hair. In
the majority of cases, probably, a moderate
use of such a lotion would be unattended
with mischief; but it is worth remembering
that palsy has been known to be produced by
the long continued use of cosmetics contain-
ing lead. The following receipts show how
these restorers are made :
1216. Hair Coloring which is not a
Dye. Take 1 drachm lac sulphur ; sugar of
lead, 2 scruples ; glycerine, 2 ounces ; distilled
water, 6 ounces ; mix, and perfume to fancy.
Or, lac sulphur and sugar of lead, each 1
drachm; sulphate of iron (copperas), 10
grains; glycerine, 2 ounces; water, 6 ounces;
mix and perfume. Shake well before using,
and apply with a sponge every other day until
a change of color is obtained, after which one
application each week will be sufficient. The
hair must be cleansed of all greasy matter be-
fore using the above. (See No. 1213.)
1217. Magic Hair Colorer and Restor-
er. Take of sugar of lead, ^ ounce ; lac sul-
phur, 3 drachms; aqua ammonia, 1£ qunces;
glycerine, 6 ounces ; water sufficient to fill a
pint bottle; mix, and perfume to suit the
fancy. Or, take of lac sulphur and sugar of
lead, each 1 drachm ; tinctures of capsicum,
and cantharides, each i ounce ; glycerine, 2
ounces; water, 5 ounces. Apply as above.
Do not employ any greasy oils in perfuming
these preparations. (See No. 1213.)
1218. Hair Restorative. Takeldrachni
milk of sulphur, 1 drachm acetate of lead, 2
drachms muriate of soda, 2 fluid ounces gly-
cerine, 8 fluid ounces bay rum, 4 fluid ounces
Jamaica rum, and 1 pint water. Mix togeth-
er, and shake before using.
P\epilatOrieS. Preparations for
JL-/ removing superfluous hair from the
skin. The constituents of most of these are
lime, and the tersulphuret of arsenic (orpi-
ment), but the use of orpiment is dangerous,
especially in case of any abrasion of the skin.
The safest depilatory is a strong solution of
sulphuret of barium made into a paste with
powdered starch. It should be applied im-
mediately after it is mixed, and allowed to re-
main there for 5 or 10 minutes. (See Nos.
1223 to 1225.)
1220. Martin's Depilatory. Apply a
light coating of sulphuretted sulphide of cal-
cium to the part from which the hair is to be
removed ; after 10 minutes it may be washed
off, and the skin will be clean.
1221. Boudet's Depilatory. Mix 3
parts hydro-sulphuret of sodium (crystallized),
10 parts finely powdered quicklime, and 11
parts starch. It should not be applied longer
than 2 to 4 minutes. Very effective" and
safe.
1222. Chinese Depilatory. Mix 8
ounces quicklime, 1 ounce dry pearlash, and
1 ounce sulphuret of potassium ; apply as in
the last receipt.
1223. To Apply a Depilatory as a
Paste. In use, the chemical depilatories
(see Nos. 1219 to 1222) which are in the state
of powder, are made into a paste with warm
water, and immediately applied to the part,
previously shaved close, a little starch being
generally added to those which do not con-
tain it, in order to render the paste more
manageable. Sometimes soap -lye is used, in-
stead of water, to form the paste. A wooden
or bone knife should be used in preparing this
paste.
1224. To Apply a Depilatory as a
Plaster. Another mode of application is to
make the paste rather thick, spread it on a
piece of strong paper, and apply it like a
plaster. In from 5 to 10 or 15 minutes, or
sooner if much smarting occurs, the paste
should be washed off with warm water, and a
little cold cream or any simple ointment ap-
plied to the part. The' liquid depilatories are
usually thickened with a little starch powder,
before application. (See Nos. 1219 to 1222.)
1225. Cautions About Applying
Depilatories. Both classes (see Nos. 1223
and 1224) require caution in their use. They
should be applied to only a small surface at a
time, and great care should be taken to pre-
SCENTED OILS; PERFUMED OILS.
129
vent them extending to the adjacent parts.
They lose their properties unless kept entirely
excluded from the air; and no liquid must he
added to the dry ones until just before their
application, and then no more should he
mixed than is required for immediate use.
Scented Oils; Perfumed
Oils. The fixed oil that usually
forms the basis of the simple scented oils of
the perfumer, is that of. almonds, ben, or
olives ; but other bland vegetable oils are
occasionally used, particularly for inferior
qualities. In Prance, three different modes
are adopted for imparting fragrance to these
oils.
1227. Perfumed Oils by the Addi-
tion of Essential Oils, or Alcoholic Es-
sences. By the simple addition of a sufficient
quantity of the essential oil of the plant, or of
the concentrated alcoholic essence of the
substance, if it does not furnish an oil. fol-
lowed by agitation; the whole being then
allowed to repose for a few days, and, if any
sediment falls (which should not be the case
if the ingredients are pure), the clear portion
decanted or poured off into another bottle.
In the case of alcoholic essences, it is better
that the fixed oil should be gently warmed
by placing the bottle or vessel (a well-tinned
bottle or can with a suitable mouth and neck
for corking, is the best and most convenient
for the purpose,) for a short time in a water-
bath, before adding them, and then, after
tightly and firmly securing with a cork, to
agitate it until cold or nearly so. In general,
1 to 1£ drachms of a pure essential oil, or 3 to
4 fluid drachms of a concentrated essence, is
sufficient to render 1 pint of fixed oil agreea-
bly fragrant; but in some cases, and for the
best quality, an additional £ drachm, or more,
of the one, and 1 to 2 fluid drachms of the
other, will be required, i drachm pure attar
of roses, owing to the very powerful character
of its odor, is sufficient for the purpose. Oils
of ambergris, bergamot, cassia, cinnamon,
cloves, lavender, lemons, millefleurs, musk,
neroli, nutmeg, orange-flowers, roses, and
all other similar scented oils, may be thus
made. The above are chiefly employed as
hair cosmetics, with, in most cases, trifling
additions of other essential oils or essences,
to modify and improve their odor. Some of
them are also colored. (Cooley.)
1228. Perfumed Oils by Infusion.
"Dry substances, after being reduced to coarse
powder (but free from dust), or sliced very
small ; flowers or petals, after being carefully
selected, picked from the stems and other
scentless portions, and pulled to pieces ; and
soft, unctuous, and resinous matters, as
ambergris, rnusk, civet, resins, and balsams,
after. being rubbed to a paste with a little of
the oil (either with or without the addition of
about twice or thrice their weight of clean
siliceous sand or powdered glass, to facilitate
the reduction), are digested in the fixed oil,
for an hour or two, in a covered vessel, at
a gentle heat obtained bj means of a water-
bath, frequent stirring or agitation being em-
ployed all the time. The vessel is then
removed from the bath, and set aside (for
flowers) until the next day, or (for other sub-
stances) for 5 to 7 days, to settle, when the
clear portion is carefully decanted into a clean
bottle, or bottles. W"ith ambergris, civet,
musk, and vanilla, the digestion, with fre-
quent agitation, is usually continued for at
least 3 weeks ; and exposure of the vessel in
the sun, or in some equally -warm situation, is
generally substituted for the heat of a water-
bath. When flowers are employed, the free
oil is allowed to drain off, and the remainder
is obtained by the action of a press. The two
portions being mixed, fresh flowers are added
to the oil, and the whole process is repeated ;
and this again, with fresh flowers, 5 or 6
times, or oftener, until the oil is sufficiently
fragrant." (Coolcy.) For the extraction of
Derfume from rose leaves, from scented woods,
from bark, from gums, there appears to be
nothing better than glycerine, and this use of
it is constantly on the increase, as the most
delicate odors are perfectly preserved in it.
1229. Perfumed Oils by Enfleurage.
A series of shallow iron frames, adapted for
piling on each other, and fitting close together,
being provided, a piece of white, spongy cot-
ton-cloth is stretched upon each, and is then
freely moistened with oil of almonds, olives,
or ben. On the cloth is next laid a thin layer
of the fresh-plucked flowers, and each frame,
as thus covered, is placed on the preceding
one, until a compact pile of them is raised.
In 24 to 30 hours the flowers are replaced by
fresh ones ; and this is repeated every day, or
every other day, until 7 or 8 different lots of
flowers have been consumed, or the oil has
become sufficiently charged with their odor.
The cotton-cloths are then carefully collected
and submitted to powerful pressure, and the
expressed oil which flows from them is placed
aside in corked bottles or jars, to settle. After
some time it becomes perfectly clear, and is
then ready to be decanted into other bottles
for store or sale. Sometimes trays with per-
forated bottoms, on which are laid thin layers
of cotton -wool slightly moistened with the
oil, are substituted for the frames and cotton-
cloth above referred to. Sometimes, also,
sheep's wool or cotton wool impregnated with
oil, is stratified with flowers in a large earthen
vessel, and this, after being closely covered
up, is kept for 10 or 12 hours gently heated
by means of a water-bath. The next day the
old flowers are replaced by fresh ones, and
the whole process repeated again and again, as
often as necessary. The oil is finally obtained
by pressure from the wool, as before. "When
only a moderate degree of aroma is required
in the oil, the flowers may be crushed in a
mortar or a mill, with one-half their weight
of blanched sweet almonds, and the next day,
or the second day after, according to the
weather, the mass, after being slightly wanned,
may be submitted to the press. After about
a week's repose, the upper portion, which is
the perfumed oil, may be decanted, and, if
necessary, filtered. This plan is occasionally
adopted in this country for "Oil of Roses,"
and a few other flowers, intended for the
hair. ( Cooley. )
1230. To Perfume Hair Oils. The
mixtures of essential oils, and other odorous
substances, used in the preparation of the
perfumed spirits, will furnish examples which
ISO
SCENTED OILS; PERFUMED OILS.
may be followed in scenting hair oils and po-
mades, and from these can be framed other
combinations as the fancy may suggest. (See
Nos. 1243 and 1261.)
1231. Colorless Hair Oils. In prepar-
ing colorless or white hair oils, blanched
fixed oil, and new and colorless, or nearly
colorless, essential oils and essences only are
employed.
1232. Colored Hair Oils. The colored
oila derive their hues from the fixed oil of
which they are prepared being tinged before
the scent is added. In each case the colored
oil should be allowed to clarify itself by re-
pose in a closed vessel and a warm situation
(60 to 70° Pahr.) before being decanted for
further treatment. It is also better to pass it
through a piece of coarse muslin, to remove
floating particles ; and, in some cases, it may
be necessary to filter it, to render it quite
brilliant — a quality which it should always
possess.
1233. To Color Hair Oil Bed or
Crimson. A red and crimson tinge may be
given by steeping, for 2 or 3 days, a little
alkanet-root (say 2 or 3 drachms) in each pint
of the oil. By warming the oil, the time re-
quired for obtaining the desired tinge may be
reduced to 1 or 2 hours.
1234. To Color Hair Oil Yellow or
Orange. A yellow and orange tinge may be
given by rubbing up a little annotto with a
portion of the oil whilst hot, and then adding
it to the rest at a gentle heat ; or, more simply,
by adding a little bright palm oil to it whilst
warm.
1235. To Color Hair Oils Green. A
green tinge may be given by steeping a little
green parsley, or spinach-leaves, or lavender,
in the oil for a few days, in the cold ; or by
dissolving 2 or 3 drachms of gum-guaiacum in
each pint of it, by the aid of heat.
1236. Oil of Musk ; or Huile Mus-
quee. Take 2 avoirdupois drachms grain-
musk; ambergris, 1 drachm; oil (almond,
olive, or ben), 1 Imperial pint; proceed by
infusion. (See No. 1228.) Some makers add
about 20 or 30 drops oil of lavender (English),
10 drops oil of cloves, and 5 or 6 drops oil of
cassia, with the musk. A second quality is
made by working over the same ingredients
with J pint of fresh oil.
1237. Oil of Ambergris and Musk;
or Hujle Royale. Take 4 drachms amber-
gris ; grain-musk, 1 drachm ; oil of lavender
(English), 20 drops ; oil of cassia, oil of cloves,
011 of nutmeg, and neroli, each 10 drops; and
proceed by infusion. (See No. 1228.) Yery
fine. The ingredients may be worked over a
second time, as with oil of musk.
1238. Oil of Storax. Take 10 to 12
drachms pure liquid storax ; oil of nutmeg,
12 to 15 drops ; ambergris, 5 or 6 grains ; oil
(almond, olive, or ben), 1 Imperial pint; by
infusion. (See No. 1228.) Highly fragrant.
Used in the same way as oil of balsam of Peru.
1239. Oil of Vanilla; or Huile a la
Vanille. Take 2k ounces avoirdupois finest
vanilla in powder ; oil of bergamot, 1 Imperial
fluid drachm ; attar of roses, 15 drops ; amber-
gris, 3 grains; oil (almond or olive), 14 pints;
by infusion. (See No. 1228.) Yery fragrant.
For the simple oil, the bergamot, attar, and
ambergris, are omitted.
1 240. Oil of Ambergris ; Huile d' Am-
bergris, or Huile a PAmbre. Take of finest
ambergris, 4 to 6 drachms avoirdupois ; and
oil (almond, olive, or ben), 1 Imperial pint;
and proceed by infusion. (See No. 1228.) A
second quality is made by working the resid-
uum with £ pint of fresh oil.
1241. Oil of Balsam of Peru. Take h
avoirdupois ounce pure balsam of Peru, and
hot oil of almonds, 4 Imperial pint; agitate
them together until perfectly mixed, and for
a short time afterwards ; then set the bottle
aside, and in a few days decant the clear por-
tion. Oil of nutmeg, 20 or 30 drops, is com-
monly added to increase its action. Used to
scent other oils and fats ; also, by itself, to
improve and restore the hair, for which it is
in high repute among many persons.
1242. Oil of Benzoin. Take finest gum
benzoin, 1 outce avoirdupois, and oil of al-
monds, 1 Imperial pint ; and proceed by infu-
sion. (See No. 1228.) Used to convey the
scent of benzoin to other oils; and also to
prevent rapcidity.
1243. Mixed Essential Oils, or Mixed
Scents. The following are used as extem-
poraneous acent for smelling bottles, hair oil,
pomades, esprits, <fcc.; for which purpose one
or other of them is commonly kept at hand
by the druggists. 1 ounce of any one of
them, added to a pint of rectified spirit, pro-
duces an agreeable esprit or perfume for per-
sonal use. Oil of bergamot and lemon, of
each 1 ounce; oil of lavender (English) and
pimento, of each J ounce ; mix. Or : To the
last add of oil of orange peel, 2 drachms ; oil of
cloves, 1 drachm ; mix. Or : Take oil of ber-
gamot, lemon and orange peel, of each 3
drachms ; essence de petit-grain, 2 drachms ;
oil of cloves, li drachms; oil of cassia, 1
drachm ; mix.
1244. French Huiles or Hair Oils.
The huile antique au jasmin, aux fleurs d'or-
anges, a la rose, a la tuberose, a la violette,
<fec., &c., of the French perfumers, are simply
one or other of the bland fixed oils, (almonds,
olives, or ben), strongly scented with the oils
(huiles) of the respective flowers, or some
other preparation of them. (See Nos. 1236 to
1242.)
1245. Marrow Oil. Take clarified beef-
marrow. 1^ ounces avoirdupois; oil of almonds,
k Imperial pint; melt them together, and
scent the mixture at will. Held in high re-
pute as a hair oil, by many. That of the
small stores has seldom any marrow in it, but
lard instead. The appropriate scents are the
same as for bear's grease. It is generally
tinged slightly yellow by means of a little
palm-oil or annotto.
1246. Tonquin Pomade or Oil. Mac-
erate for from 12 to 24 hours, $ pound tonquin
beans in 4 pounds melted fat or warm oil, and
strain through fine muslin; when cold the
grease will be found to have acquired a fine
odor of the beans.
1247. Vanilla Pomade or Oil. This
is prepared in the same way as for tonquin
beans, by substituting J pound of vanilla
beans.
1248. Macassar Oil. Oil of ben, 1
gallon, oil of noisette, i gallon ; strong alco-
hol, 1 quart ; attar of rose, 2 drachms ; attar
of bergamot, 3 ounces ; attar of Portugal, 2
POMATUMS OR POMADES.
131
ounces ; and tincture of musk, 3 ounces ; mix
together, digest with alkanet root (for color),
in a stoppered bottle for a week, then strain
and bottle.
1249. Cheap Hair Oils. These are
made of fixed oils (usually almond or olive
oil), gradually receding in quality, scented
with less attar, the deficiency being made up
by a mixture of oil of rhodium, rosemary, and
bergamot. A few drops of neroli, or oil of
rose geranium, or a little huile au jasmin,
with or without 2 or 3 drops oil of musk^ or
huile royale, are occasionally added to im-
prove and slightly modify the odor.
1250. Tricopherous. Castor oil, \ pint;
95 percent, alcohol, spint; tincture canthar-
ides, £ ounce ; oil of bergamot, 2 drachms.
Color a pale pink with alkanet root. (See No.
1233.)
1251. Oil for Incipient Baldness.
The commonest, and perhaps the most con-
venient and easily prepared cosmetic of the
kind, is a mixture of equal parts of tincture
of cantharides and olive oil or almond oil,
simply agitated together, and shaken before
use. A more effective and cleanly liquid pre-
paration may be made by substituting proof
spirit (or good rum) for the oil, and adding 1
to li drachms of glycerine (Price's) to each
ounce of the mixture, a corresponding increase
being made in the proportion of the tincture,
to compensate for this addition. This prepa-
ration imparts as much moisture and gloss to
the hair as the former one, and is much more
genial in its action on the scalp. Distilled
water, or rosemary water, is often substituted
for proof spirit. A still more active prepara-
tion is made of tincture of cantharides and
glycerine only.
Pomatums or Pomades.
Any scented greasy matter of appropri-
ate consistence, or any mixture of fats, used,
or intended to be used, in dressing the hair,
now commonly passes under the name of po-
inatnm or pomade. The usual basis of ordi-
nary pomatum or pomade for use in this cli-
mate, is either a mixture of 2 parts of hog's
lard and 1 part of beef suet ; or of 5 parts of
lard and 2 parts of mutton suet ; the fats be-
ing both previously carefully rendered or pre-
pared, and then melted together by a gentle
neat. The latter mixture is chiefly used for
white pomatum or pomade. Essential oil, and
other volatile matter used to scent this fat,
should be added to it and stirred up with it,
after it has somewhat cooled, but before it be-
gins to solidify, in order to prevent loss. The
unscented mixed fats form the plain pomade or
pomatum of the perfumers. (Coolci/.)
1253. To Purify Suet or Lard for
Making Pomades. Suet or lard form the
body of pomades ; and that their quality may
be unexceptionable, the rendered suet must be
subjected to a purifying process, in order to fit
it for use in perfumery. This is done by melt-
ing the rendered fat by the heat of a saline
or steam bath in an enameled iron vessel,
and adding to it, gradually, 1 ounce powdered
alum and 2 ounces chloride of sodium (pure
table salt) to every fifty pounds of fat under
treatment. • The heat is to be continued above
212° Fahr., until scum ceases to rise to the
surface, which contains all the organic and
other impurities, and must be skimmed off as
fast as it is formed. The fat is then strained
through bolting cloth into clean stone jars, and
left to cool, it is next to be spread upon a
circular stone slab, the top surface of which is
slanting from the centre, (that is, slightly coni-
cal in form), and provided with a stone roller
which is made to revolve by suitable gearing.
As the roller, or muller, revolves over the fat,
cold water is allowed to trickle upon it, and
this dissolves the saline impurities remaining in
the fat. After this the fat is heated until all
water is expelled by evaporation. "When cold,
the fat will be found to be very white and
pure, and in a condition to preserve its sweet-
ness, and suitable for use with the most deli-
cate odors.
1254. 'Method of Purifying Fat.
Take 1 cwt. of perfectly fresh grease, either of
lard or beef suet ; cut the grease into small
pieces, and pound it well in a mortar ; when
it is well crushed, wash it with water repeat-
edly, until, in fact, the water is as clear after
withdrawing the grease as before it was put
in. The grease has now to be melted over a
slow fire, adding thereto about 3 ounces crys-
tallized alum in powder, and a handful of
common salt ; now let the grease boil, but al-
low it to bubble for a few seconds only ; then
strain the grease through fine linen into a
deep pan, and allow it to stand, to clear ilself
from all impurities, for about 2 hours. The
clear grease is then again to be put into the
pan, over a bright fire, adding thereto about 3
or 4 quarts rose water, and about 5 ounces pow-
dered gum benzoin ; it is allowed to boil gent-
ly, and all scum that rises is to be removed,
until it ceases to be produced; finally the
grease is put into deep pans, and when cold
taken carefully off the sedimentary water ; it
is then fit for use, and may be kept for an in-
definite period, without change or turning
rancid. It will be observed that the principal
feature in this process is the use of benzoin.
1255. To Perfume Melted Fat. In
adding aromatics or perfumes to the melted
fat, its temperature must be adapted to their
relative degree of volatility. Essential oils
and alcoholic essences, particularly the more
delicate ones, are added at the lowest possible
temperature compatible with their perfect
union with the fat ; whilst substances like the
aromatic resins and balsams are better added
to the fat more fully liquefied, aiding their
solution and union by stirring the mass with
a wooden, bone, or porcelain knife or spatula.
"With the latter, after the union is complete,
it is often necessary to allow the mixture to
repose for a short time, and to pour it off
from the dregs before adding the essential
oils and essences, and concluding the work.
(See No. 1261.)
1256. To Finish off Pomades. In fin-
ishing off pomades two methods are adopted,
according to the appearance it is desired they
should have. Those which it is intended
should be opaque and white, should be stirred
or beaten assiduously with a knife or spatula
until the fat begins to concrete, or has acquir-
ed considerable consistence, before potting it ;
but when it is desired that they should be trans-
parent or crystalline, the clear liquid mass is
132
POMATUMS OS POMADES.
poured into the pots or bottles, previously
slightly warmed, and the whole is allowed to
cool very slowly, without being disturbed, in a
situation free from draughts of cold air. For
the ordinary pomades a mixture of lard and
suet is generally employed; for the harder ones,
suet chiefly or wholly ; or a little pure white
wax or beeswax (according to the intended
color of the product) is melted with the fat to
increase its solidity. For white pomades,
mutton suet is employed ; for others, in gen-
eral, beef suet. In those which are artificial-
ly colored, either may be used ; but beef suet
is preferable when either clearness or a crystal-
line appearance is desired. (Cooley.)
1257. Coloring Matters for Fat. It
is often desirable, as a matter of taste, to tinge
the prepared fat used for perfumery. The
process given below is applicable to all fats,
whether solid or fluid. Color may also be
imparted by the addition of pigments in pow-
der, but these are objectionable for pomade,
hair oil, and creams. The coloring matter
should be dissolved or steeped in the melting
fat before scenting it. (See No. 1232.)
1258. To Color Fat Pink. Bruise 4
ounces alkanet root for every pound of fat
used; melt the fat over a water-bath, add the
bruised alkanet, and digest for several hours.
Strain the mixture through bolting cloth, and
allow the clear fluid fat to cool. This fat,
now colored deep pink, is used as a coloring
mixture ; 1 ounce of it will be sufficient to
color 1 pound of white fat, by simply melting
them together.
1259. To Color Fat Yellow. A yel-
low coloring fat may be prepared as in the
last receipt, by using, instead of the alkanet,
1 ounce of annotto to the pound of fat.
1260. To Color Fat Green. The same
process followed in No. 1258, with fresh wal-
nut leaves, will give a green coloring fat.
1261. Essences for Scenting Poma-
tums. Millefleur — oil of lemon, 3 ounces ;
essence of ambergris, 4 ounces ; oil of cloves,
2 ounces, oil of lavender, 2 ounces. Cowslip —
essence of bergarnot, 16 ounces ; essence of
lemon, 8 ounces ; oil of cloves, 4 ounces ; oil
of orange-peel, 2 ounces; oil of jasmin, 2
drachms ; eau de bouquet, 2 ounces ; oil of
bitter almonds, 16 drops. For general use —
essence of bergamot, 16 ounces; essence of
lemon, 8 ounces ; true oil of origanum and oil
of cloves, each 2 ounces ; oil of orange-peel,
1A ounces. (See Nos. 1243 and 1255.)
1262. Pomades by Infusion. These
are prepared by digesting the odorous sub-
stances in the simple pomade (see No. 1265),
at a very gentle heat, for 2 or 3, to .8 or 10
hours, according to their nature, in the way
already noticed under "Oils" (see No. 1228);
observing to stir the mixture frequently, and
to keep the vessel covered as much as possible
during the whole time. 1 part of flowers,
carefully picked and pulled to pieces, to 3 or
4 parts of pomade, are the usual proportions.
The next day the mixture is again greatly
heated, and, after being stirred for a short
time, is thrown into a strong canvas bag,
which is then securely tied, and at once sub-
mitted to the action of a powerful press.
(This should have been previously made
moderately warm. This is effected cither by
means of a steam-jacket, or by filling it with
hot water. In the latter case, care should be
taken to perfectly free it from water before
use. ) The whole operation is then repeated,
several times, with fresh flowers, or other
bulky odorous substance, until the pomade be
sufficiently fragrant. This will require 3 to
6 times its weight in flowers. Lastly, in the
case of flowers, the pomade is liquefied in a
covered vessel, at a gentle heat, as before ;
and after sufficient repose to allow it to
deposit adhering moisture, is poured off for
stock, or is at once potted. To obtain es-
sences the fat is treated with spirit, which
combines with the essential oil, leaving the
fat with still a strong odor of the. flower.
This latter forms the French pomade. The
delicate perfume of some flowers is impaired
by heat, and the process of absorption (en-
fleuragc) is adopted. (See No. 1263.) The
mode of proceeding with the aromatic barks,
seeds, resins, balsams, &c., the duration of
the infusion, and the proportions taken, are,
for the most part, similar to those of the cor-
responding huiles or oils ; but here the first
two substances, and others of a like nature,
are only bruised, ground, or sliced very small,
and not reduced to actual powder before
digestion, as pomades, unlike oils, cannot be
freed from fine powder or dust by filtration
through fine media, or by repose in the cold.
In this way are prepared the pomades of
balsam of Peru, benzoin, cassia, cinnamon,
lavender (green), orange-blossoms, orris-root
(violet), roses (colored), storax, vanilla, and
several others, kept by the French perfumers,
and known and spoken of in this country by
their French names, as "Pomade aux Fleurs
d'Oranges," "a la Rose," "a la Vanille," (fee.
(Cooley.) Piesse proposes a simple method
by which any person can perfume pomade in
small quantities; and, if desired, prepare- per-
fumed extracts of favorite flowers. Procure
an ordinary, perfectly clean, double glue-pot,
the inner vessel capable of holding a pound of
fat. When the flowers are in bloom, put a
pound of fine lard into the inner vessel of the
slue-pot; pour sufficient boiling water into
the outer pot, and place the whole on a stove
until the lard is melted ; strain it through a
lose hair-sieve into a vessel containing cold
spring water. In order to obtain a perfectly
Inodorous grease, this process may be repeated
3 or 4 times, using each time fresh water, con-
taining a pinch each of salt and alum. Lastly
melt the purified fat and let it cool, to free it
Tom water. Next put the fat in a vessel in a
place just warm enough to keep it constantly
'iquid ; throw into it as many of the flowers
as it will receive ; every 24 hours for a week,
strain the fat from the flowers, and add fresh
ones. This repetition of fresh flowers will
jroduce a highly perfumed pomade. In this
iianner either one kind of flowers, or a mix-
ture of 2 or more kinds may be employed.
The perfumed extract may be obtained from
;he pomade by introducing the cold perfumed
'at, finely chopped, into a wide-necked bottle,
and covering it with the strongest spirits of
wine that can be obtained ; and, after closing
the bottle, let it stand for a week, when the
spirit may be strained off, and will be a per-
'uined extract of the flowers employed. The
bllowing flowers are best adapted for this
process: Rose, jasmin, orange, violet, jon-
POMATUMS OB POMADES.
133
quil, tuberose, and cassia. Piesse propose
heliotrope, but probably without sufficient
grounds.
1263. Pomades by Enfleurage. These
perfumed pomades are prepared by a simi-
lar process to that adopted for the correspond-
ing oils. (See No. 1229.) On the large scale,
a layer of simple pomade is spread, •with a
bone palette-knife, on panes of glass, to about
the thickness of a finger, and the surface is
closely stuck all over with the newly-gathered
flowers. The panes are then placed in shal-
low frames of wood, and these are closely
piled one upon another, in stacks, in a moder-
ately cool situation. In some of the great
perfumeries of France, many thousands of
these frames are employed at once. -On the
small scale, porcelain or pewter plates are
generally used instead of panes of glass, and
are inverted over each other, in pairs, so as to
fit close at the edges. In each case the
flowers are renewed daily, and the fat stirred
up and re-spread occasionally, for 1, 2, or
even 3 months, or until the pomade has be-
come sufficiently fragrant to render it of the
quality intended by the manufacturer. It is
now scraped oft' the panes or plates, into the
store-pots, and is ready for use or sale. In
this way are prepared the finest qualities of
cowslip, honeysuckle, jasmin, jonquil, may-
blossom, myrtle-blossom, narcissus, orange-
flower, tuberose, and violet pomade ; as well
as the pomades of several other delicate
flowers that readily impart their odor to fat
by simple proximity or contact. The imported
pomades of this class, like those of the last
one, are always distinguished among the per-
fumers, by their French names; as " Pomade
au Jasmin," " Pomade aux Fleurs d'Oranges,"
" Pomade a la Yiolette," <fcc. The stronger
pomades of these last two classes are chiefly
employed in the preparation of extraits and
essences, and are added to other pomades, to
impart the fragrance of the respective flowers.
The others are also used as hair cosmetics.
( Cooler/. )
1264. Mixed Pomades; Compound
Pomades. Those are prepared either by the
admixture of the different fragrant pomades
already noticed, or by the addition of judicious
combinations of the more esteemed essential
oils, essences, and other odorous substances,
to simple pomade, whilst in the liquid or
semi-liquid state. The latter is the method
almost exclusively adopted by our perfumers.
The usual fatty basis of the preceding po-
mades is one or other of the following :
1265. Plain Pomatum or Pomade.
Take 2 parts carefully rendered hog's lard, and
1 part beef-suet (see No. 1253, <f-c.), and melt
them together by a very gentle heat. The
product is of the proper consistence for tem-
perate climates. Or: Lard, 5 parts, and
mutton-suet, 2 parts. (See No. 1253.) Or:
Lard and suet equal parts.
1266. Common Pomatum. Take of
plain pomade (or fat), 1 pound, melt it at the
lowest degree of heat that will effect the ob-
ject, add of oil of bergamot and lemon, of
each 1 drachm ; stir the mixture until it be-
gins to concrete, and then pour it into the
pots or bottles. This forms the ordinary
pomatum.
1267. Rose Pomade. Melt together
and mix in a water-bath 1 pound prepared
grease and 2 ounces spermaceti ; triturate in
a mortar until it becomes white and smooth,
then add and incorporate thoroughly 3 ounces
oil of sweet almonds, ± drachm oil of roses,
and 4 drachm oil of geranium. A rose-color
is obtained by heating the oil of almonds and
adding to it 5 drachrn of alkanet, and strain-
ing it before incorporation.
1268. Pomade Millefleur. This much
esteemed pomade is strongly scented with
several perfumes of the kind noticed below,
so proportioned to each other that none pre-
dominate. The following are common exam-
ples; but the scents, within certain limits,
may be varied at will : — Take of plain pomade,
1J pounds avoirdupois; oil of lemon, 1^ Impe-
rial fluid drachms; -oil of lavender '(English),
balsam of Peru, and essence royale, of each
1 fluid drachm; oil of cassia, oil of cloves,
and essence de petit-grain, of each % fluid
drachm. Or, plain pomade, 1 pound, and es-
sence or extrait de millefleurs, 4 to 5 fluid
drachms.
1269. Peruvian Pomade. Take i
ounce each good washed lard, and clarified
beef suit; balsam of Peru, 4 ounce; mix as
before, add & fluid drachm oil of nutmeg, and
pour it into pots or dumpy, wide-mouthed
phials. Dr. Copland adds a little oil of laven-
der. In high repute as a hair-restorer.
1270. Philocome. This compound is
made without heat. Equal parts of purified
beef-marrow, oils of noisettes and sweet al-
monds are thoroughly mixed in a marble
mortar, and the whole is then perfumed by
the addition of a sufficient quantity of a mix-
ture of extracts of rose, acacia, jasmin, or-
ange-flower and tuberose.
1271. Vanilla Pomatum. Take of
plain pomade 1 pound avoirdupois; melt and
add 4 or 5 Imperial fluid drachms finest es-
sence of vanilla ; attar of roses, 8 or 10 drops,
as before. Very fine. The plain pomade may
be previously slightly tinged with annotto.
1272. East India Pomatum ; Pomade
des Indes; or Pomade d'Orient. Take
beef-suet, £ pound avoirdupois; lard, 3 pound;
pure bright beeswax, 2 ounces; finest annotto,
1 drachm; gum-benzoin in coarse powder, f
ounce ; and grain-inusk, 6 to 8 grains ; digest
in a covered vessel set in a water-bath, with
frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 hours. After re-
pose, decant the clear portion, add of oil of
lemon, 1 Imperial fluid drachm ; oil of laven-
der (English), i fluid drachm; oils of cassia,
cloves and verbena, each 10 or 12 drops ; and
stir the mass until it has somewhat cooled.
Lastly, pour it into pots or bottles, and let it
ool very slowly, and undisturbed. Yery fra-
grant.
1273. Transparent Pomade. Take of
best transparent soap, 1 3 drachms; 95 per
cent, alcohol, 2i ounces. Dissolve the soap
in the alcohol by heat, and add it suddenly to /
a quart of hot castor oil ; have perfume ready /
to put in at once, and pour in warm bottles.
Another very superior article is prepared in
the following way : Fatty oil of almonds, 24
pounds; spermaceti, k pound; oil of lemon, 3
ounces. The spermaceti is melted in a water-
bath, the oils are then added, and the heat
kept up until a uniform mass is obtained, in
which no floating particles of spermaceti can
134
POMATUMS OR POMADES.
be distinguished. The pomade is then poured
into glasses ; if it is desired to obtain this po-
made crystallized, the glasses must be heated
beforehand, and cooled down tfery slowly.
1274. Crystallized Pomade or Poma-
tum. Take of oil of almonds or olives, 1
pint; J pound spermaceti (best, pure); melt
them together by a gentle heat, add scent at
will, and whilst sufficiently warm to be clear,
pour it into warm glass bottles, and allow it
to cool very slowly, and without disturbance.
Some persons add 1 drachm camphor. It is
usually preferred uncolored. If tinged at all,
it must be only very faintly so, and with sub-
stances that will not cause opacity.
1275. Pomade Divine. Take of refined
beef-marrow, 1 pound avoirdupois ; cypress-
wood (rasped), orris root (in coarse powder),
liquid styrax, of each 1 ounce; cinnamon
(powdered, but not dusty), i ounce; cloves
(well bruised), nutmegs (grated), of each J
ounce ; digest, by the heat of a water-bath, in
a covered vessel, for 5 or 6 hours, and then
strain through flannel. Very fine, and much
esteemed for the hair, and also as an occasional
skin-cosmetic.
1276. Castor Oil Pomade; Palma-
Christi Pomatum. Take of castor oil, 1
pound avoirdupois; pure white wax, 4 ounces;
melt them together, and then add of oil of
bergamot, 2£ drachms; oil of lavender (Eng-
lish), £ drachm; essence royale, 10 or 12 drops;
stir the mixture whilst cooling.
1277. Bear's Grease. The fat of the
bear has long been highly esteemed for pro-
moting the growth of human hair, but with-
out sufficient reason, since experience shows
that it possesses no superiority over the fats
ordinarily employed by the perfumers. In-
deed, if we may regard the somewhat rank
smell of genuine bear's grease as an indication
of its quality, it must be inferior to them as
a hair cosmetic; besides which, it is much
more costly. The greater portion of the so-
called bear's grease now sold is a factitious
article, and is prepared by the following for-
mula : —
1278. Imitation Bear's Grease. Take
of washed hog's lard (dry), 1J pounds avoirdu-
pois ; melt it by the heat of a water-bath, add
of balsam of Peru, 2 drachms; flowers of
benzoin and palm oil (bright), of each 1
drachm ; stir vigorously for a few minutes, to
promote solution. Then remove the pan from
the bath, and, after repose for a short time,
pour off the clear portion from the sediment,
and stir the liquid mass until it begins to
cool.
1 279. Pomade for Incipient Baldness.
Melt over a water-bath, 12 ounces pure veal
grease, 5 ounces nerval balsam, 5 ounces nut-
meg butter, and 6| ounces oil of almonds;
triturate in a mortar until thoroughly mixed ;
then add 10 drops croton oil, and incorporate.
Next dissolve 3£ ounces subcarbonate of soda
in 1 ounce each of alcohol and distilled water;
incorporate this with the pomade and perfume
to taste.
1280. Cazenave's Pomade. Prepared
beef-inarrow, 4 ounces (avoirdupois) ; tincture
of cantharides, -J fluid ounce (Imperial); and
cinnamon coarsely powdered, \ ounce; melt
them together by the heat of a water-bath ;
stir until the spirit in the tincture has evapo-
rated, decant the clear portion, and again stir
until the mass concretes. It is cheaper and
more convenient to omit the powdered cin-
namon, and to strongly scent it with oil of
cinnamon (or of cassia), after the removal of
the vessel from the bath. Some scent it with
the oils of origanum and bergamot; and
others employ the oils of nutmeg and laven-
der for the purpose. Recommended in weak
hair and remediable baldness. It is ordered
to be used night and morning ; the head being
washed with soap and water, and afterwards
with salt and water, and wiped dry, each time
before applying it, or at least once a day.
1281. Tar Pomade. Dr. Dauvergne ex-
tolled in unmeasured terms the virtue of
vegetable tar in failing hair and baldness.
His formula is as follows : — 6J troy ounces
lard; 5 drachms Norwegian tar ; 3^ drachms
each butter of nutmegs and gum-benzoin ; 5
drachms fiovarenti balm ; 5 drachms baume
de commander; 1 ounce essence of patchouli;
and 3 grains musk ; mix. This formula ap-
pears unnecessarily and absurdly complicated.
We have no hesitation in stating that the
substitution of 3 to 5 drachms English oil of
lavender, and 2 drachms essence of musk or
essence royale, for the last four articles, would
disguise the smell of the tar quite as well,
without impairing the efficacy of the prepara-
tion.
1282. Dupuytren's Pomade. Take 12
avoirdupois ounces prepared beef-marrow ;
melt by a gentle heat, add baume nerval, 4
ounces; 3 ounces each balsam of Peru and
oil of almonds; and mix thoroughly. Then
add alcoholic extract of cantharides, 36 grains,
dissolved in 3 Imperial fluid drachms recti-
fied spirit; stir the mass until it concretes.
This is the original formula for this celebrated
pomade; but, in serious cases, Dupuytren
was in the habit of doubling, or even tripling
the proportion of the extract of cantharides
without altering that of the other ingredients.
The product is a genial stimulant and rubefa-
cient, and, not undeservedly, has long been
held in high esteem as a hair-cosmetic, acting
by medicating the scalp.
1283. Soubeiran's Pomade. Take of
oil of almonds, \ ounce ; disulphate of quinine,
1 drachm ; triturate them together in a warm
wedgwood ware mortar until thoroughly
united ; then add of prepared beef-marrow,
\\ ounces; and continue the trituration until
the mass is cold. Scent may be added.
Recommended for strengthening and restoring
the hair.
1284. Pomade Contre 1'Alopecie,
to Cure Baldness. Fresh lemon juice, 1
drachm; extract of bark (by cold water), 2
drachms ; marrow, 2 ounces ; tincture of can-
tharides, 1 drachm; oil of lemon, 20 drops;
oil of bergamot, 10 drops ; mix. First wash
the head with soap and water, with a little
eau de Cologne, then rub it dry. Next morn-
ing rub in a small lump of pomade, and re-
peat it daily. In 4 or 5 weeks the cure of
baldness is effected.
1285. New French Remedy for
Baldness. Croton oil, one of the last French
remedies for baldness, is employed by simply
adding it to oil or pomade, and stirring or
agitating the two together until admixture
or solution be complete. The formula adopt-
TOOTH POWDERS.
135
ed by the eminent French physician who in-
troduced this remedy, and who speaks, in the
most confident and enthusiastic way, of the
success attending its use, is — take of croton
oil, 12 drops (minims) ; oil of almonds, 4
Troy drachms; mix. A little is to be well
rubbed on the scalp twice a day. Soft down,
we are assured, appears in three weeks. Mr.
Cooley says : "I have tried a number of ex-
periments with croton oil, thus used, in partial
loss of hair and baldness, and am compelled
to bear testimony to its efficacy in several ap-
parently hopeless cases, in which even can-
tharidine had failed. Soft hair, resembling
down, did begin to appear in from 3 to 4
weeks, and continued to grow and increase in
strength for some time. It was, however,
only in about one-third of these cases that this
down subsequently increased in stiffness and
quantity so as to well cover the part, and to
deserve the name of hair, in the popular sense
of the word." (See No.' 1286.)
1286. Caution about Strong Hair
Cosmetics. Although the stronger hair cos-
metics are, as a rule, perfectly safe when ap-
plied according to the directions given, and
the chief inconvenience that may arise, even
from their too free or injudicious use, will be
only temporary irritation, perhaps accom-
panied or followed by slight desquamation of
the cuticle, or by a few unimportant pustules
which will pass off in two or three days, yet
there are cases in which their application
would be unwise, and liable to produce more
serious consequences. Thus, persons of a
nervous temperament, with a highly irritable
skin, and bad habit of body, persons liable to
attacks of erysipelas, or to swollen glands
behind the ears, or to swellings or tumors in
the upper part of the neck behind, or to erup-
tive or other attacks of the scalp, and the
like, should not have recourse to them. In
other cases, and, indeed, in all cases, it is wise
to use them very sparingly, or in a diluted
state at first, .and thus, as it were, feel our
way, and be able to judge from experience
the strength that can be employed, without
inconvenience, to produce the desired effect.
(See Nos. 1177, fc., 1279, fa., and 1285.)
1287. Hungarian Pomade for the
Moustache. Melt by a gentle heat h pound
gum-arabic, and i pound of oil soap, in 1 pint
rose water, then add 1 pound white wax, con-
stantly stirring; when of a uniform consist-
ency, add 1 ounce attar of bergamot, and |
drachm attar of thyme, for perfume. If re-
quired to be brown, color it with tube-burnt
amber ; or for black, use tube ivory-black.
Tooth. Powders ; Denti-
frices ; Pondres pour
leS DentS ; &C. These preparations
should be compounded of materials which,
while cleaning the teeth without injury to the
enamel, will also be anti-acid, anti-scorbutic,
and tonic in their action upon the gums.
Cooley says : " Great care should be taken to
finely pulverize all the dry ingredients, and to
reduce the harder and gritty ones to the state
of impalpable powder, either by patient levi-
gation or trituration, or by elutriation. (See
Nos. 25, 31, and 14.) To ensure the perfect
mixture of the ingredients, they should be
stirred together until they form an apparently
homogeneous powder, which should then be
passed or rubbed through a fine gauze-sieve.
Those which contain volatile or perishable
substances, or which, like charcoal, are affected
by contact with the air, should be put up iu
dumpy, wide-mouthed bottles, and kept close-
ly corked." "Tooth powders are nearly all
compound powders. The only simple powder
in common use as a dentifrice is powdered
charcoal. Powdered bicarbonate of soda,
cream of tartar, &c., are also employed,
though less frequently." The following list
includes some of the best tooth-powders in
common use, as well as several advertised
nostrums and named powders of the stores.
By omitting the honey and spirit, the formula?
given for tooth pastes furnish others for tooth
powders ; and vice versa. Thus, the example
given under each will increase the number of
the other ; and both will suggest to the reader
other formulae.
1289. Poudre Detersive Dentifrice.
Willow charcoal and white sugar in impalpa-
ble powder, each 8 ounces ; calasaya bark in
impalpable powder, 4 ounces ; mix thoroughly
in a mortar, sift through the finest bolting
cloth, and perfume with a mixture of attar of
mint, 2 drachms ; attar of cinnamon, 1 ounce ;
and tincture of amber, •£ ounce.
1290. Camphorated Chalk. Precipi-
tated carbonate of lime (chalk), 1 pound ;
powdered orris root, 3£ pounds; powdered
camphor, J pound; reduce the camphor to
fine powder by triturating it in a mortar with
a little alcohol; then add the other ingredients,
and when the mixture is complete, sift through
the finest bolting cloth. (See No. 28.)
1291. Precipitated Chalk. This is
prepared by adding a solution of carbonate of
soda to a solution of chloride of calcium (both
cold), as long as a precipitate forms. This
last is well washed with pure water, and
dried out of the dust, as the last. The refuse
sulphate of lime of the soda-water makers,
which is poisonous in quantity, is often sold
for it by the druggists. Pure chalk is wholly
soluble in vinegar, and in dilute acetic, hydro-
chloric, and nitric acid, with effervescence.
Sulphate of lime is insoluble in these fluids.
1292. To make Prepared Chalk.
Rub 1 pound chalk with sufficient water,
added gradually, to make it a smooth cream ;
then stir this into a large quantity of water,
after the coarser particles have settled decant
the milky fluid into another vessel, and allow
the chalk to settle ; decant the clear water,
and dry the sediment.
1293. To Purify Hartshorn. Burn
pieces of harts' horns until perfectly white ;
then grind them, and purify in the same
manner as chalk. (Sec No. 1292.)
1294. Lardner's Tooth Powder. Take
of powdered charcoal (recent), 1 ounce ; pre-
pared chalk (see No. 1292), 3 ounces; mix,
and keep it from the air. A simple, but good
tooth powder, known also as Lardner's Pre-
pared Charcoal.
1295. Miahle's Rational Dentifrice.
Take of sugar of milk, 3 ounces ; tannin (tftn-
nic acid), 3 drachms; red lake, 1 drachm;
oil of mint and oil of aniseed, of each 7 or 8
136
TOOTH
drops; neroli, 4 or 5 drops; mix. Very
serviceable in foul, lax, or bleeding gums,
loose or rotten teeth, &c. As a tooth powder
it is improved by the addition of 1 ounce each
of burnt hartshorn and cuttle-fish bone.
1296. Deschamp's Dentifrice for Re-
moving the Yellow Color from Teeth.
Take of dry hypochlorite of lime, k drachm ;
red coral, 2 drachms ; triturate well and mix
thoroughly. This powder is employed in the
following manner: a new brush is slightly
moistened, then dipped in the powder and ap-
plied to the teeth. According to Deschamp,
a few days' use of this powder will produce a
marked alteration in the appearance of the
the teeth, which will acquire a white color.
1297. An Excellent Dentifrice. Pre-
cipitated chalk (see No. 1291), 1 pound; pow-
dered borax, \ pound; powdered rnyrrh, 4
ounces ; powdered orris, 4 ounces. Mix, and
sift through finest bolting cloth. (See No. 28.)
1298. Morfit's Dentifrice. Powdered
willow charcoal, 4 ounces; chinehoua bark
and sugar of milk, in powders, each 1 pound ;
old transparent soap, in powder, 4 ounces;
mix in a marble mortar, sift through the finest
bolting cloth (see No. 28), and perfume with
attar of orange-flower, 1 ounce.
1299. Grosvenor's Tooth Powder.
Take of red coral, 6 ounces ; prepared oyster-
shells, 5 ounces ; orris root, 1 ounce ; oil of
rhodium, 4 or 5 drops ; mix. This is the origi-
nal formula. Equal parts of prepared shells,
rose-pink, and cuttle-fish bone, are now gen-
erally substituted for the coral. It is also sold
as coral dentifrice and coral tooth powder.
They are all favorites in the fashionable
•world.
1300. Violet Tooth Powder. Take of
precipitated chalk, 6 ounces ; cuttle-fish bone,
3 ounces; rose-pink (bright), 2i ounces; orris
root, 1$ ounces ; essence of violets (orris), \
fluid drachm ; indigo (pure, to strike a violet
tint), a sufficient quantity ; mix. A favorite
dentifrice among ladies.
1301. Areca Nut Tooth Powder.
Take of areca nut charcoal, 5 ounces ; cuttle-
fish bone, 2 ounces ; areca nuts (raw ), 1 ounce
mix. About h drachm each of cloves auc
cassia are usually added, but it is better with-
out any such addition. Areca nut charcoal
in fine powder, is often sold under this name
This powder cannot be excelled. (See No
1302.)
1302. Areca Nut Charcoal is prepared
and kept by only a few houses ; four-fifths o
that sold by the druggists is spurious. Th<
genuine powder is heavier and harder thai
common charcoal, and has a peculiar ap
pearance and feel, when pressed with the fin
gers, which is readily distinguishable.
1303. Pearl Dentifrice; Pearl Tooth
Powder. Take of white marble-dust, '"
ounces; cuttle-fish bone, 1 ounce; smalt
(finest), 1 drachm ; essence de petit-grain, 10
to 12 drops; mix. A favorite with ladies whi
have white, healthy teeth. Precipitated chall
or heavy carbonate of magnesia is commonb
substituted for the marble-dust, but the qual
ity of the product suffers in all but color.
1304. Pelletier's duinine Dentifrice
Take of red coral, 3 ounces; myrrh, 1 drachm
disulphate of quinine, 15 grains; scent a
will ; mix. Recommended as a tonic for the
eeth and gums. Prepared oyster-shell ia
jommonly substituted for the coral, and a little
red bole added to color it.
Toothpastes; Tooth Elec-
tuaries; Pates pourles
DentS. These may consist of any of the
substances ordinarily used as dentifrices, re-
duced to the state of iupalpable powder, and
>eaten up with sufficient honey (liquefied by
a gentle heat), syrup, or capillaire, to give
;hem the form of a smooth and moderately
stiff" paste or electuary, a sufficient quantity
of aromatics being usually added, as .it were,
to "embalm and perfume the mouth." Honey
of roses is often, and conserve of roses some-
;imes, used for those in which their odor and
color are suitable. A little rectified spirit is a
useful addition, as tending to preserve them,
and promote their action. A little eau de Co-
ogne or lavender water is often employed,
with the same intention. They are usually
put up in porcelain or ornamental glazed earth-
mware pots, furnished with closely fitting
;overs, to preserve their contents from the
air. The mixed powders should be passed
through a very fine gauze-sieve, before adding
the honey, and the paste should not be potted
until the day following that on which it is
made. (See No. 1288.)
1306. Ward's Tooth Paste. Take of
prepared chalk (see No. 1292), 2 ounces :
myrrh, rhatany root, and cuttle-fish bone,
each, i ounce ; orris root, % ounce ; honey, 3
ounces. A very useful dentifrice in foul,
spongy, and scorbutic gums, loose and rotten
teeth, &c. This is also known as Zeiter's An-
ti-scorbutic Dentifrice.
1307. Areca Nut Charcoal Tooth
Paste. Areca nut charcoal (recent, in fine
powder), beaten up with pure honey or capil-
laire. Aromatics, though commonly added,
do not improve its efficacy. (Sec No. 1302.)
1308. Areca Nut Tooth Paste. Take
of recently burnt areca-nut charcoal, in fine
powder (sec No. 1302), 5 parts ; raw or un-
burnt areca nuts, 1 part; honey, liquefied by a
gentle heat, and allowed to cool, sufficient to
make them into a stiff paste, adding gradual-
ly, for each ounce of the mixture, about 1
fluid drachm rectified spirit, holding in solu-
tion oil of cassia and oil of cloves, of each
10 or 12 drops. The next day beat up the
mass again, adding, if necessary, a few drops
of proof spirit, or of eau de rose or orange-
flower water, to give it a proper consistence,
and at once put it into pots. A very excellent
preparation.
1309. Vanilla Tooth Paste. Take of
the finest vanilla, 1 drachm ; cloves, 5 drachm;
lump sugar and cuttle-fish bone, of each £
ounce ; white marble-dust, 1 ounce ; mix, trit-
urate them to an inpalpablc powder, and then
beat them to a paste with about 2 ounces
syrup of saffron. The product is much es-
teemed for rapidly whitening the teethyind
deodorizing the breath. 5 or G drops ot es-
sence of ambergris or musk, dissolved in 1
fluid drachm of rectified spirit, are often add-
ed, and improve it.
TOOTH AND MOUTH WASHES,
137
1310. Peruvian Bark Tooth Paste.
This paste is made by adding 1| or 2 drachms
of Peruvian bark, in very fine powder, to the
last receipt. It is a useful tonic in spouginess,
foulness, and scurvy of the gums. (See No.
1318.)
1311. Soap Tooth Paste. Take of Cas-
tile soap (air-dried, in fine powder), and cuttle-
fish bone, of each 2 ounces ; honey, 4 or 5
ounces ; aromatics or perfume at will, with or
without the addition of a little rectified spirit.
A very excellent preparation, superior to all the
other pastes for cleaning the teeth and remov-
ing tartar and animalcule from them, but in-
ferior in blanching and preservative qualities
to areca nut charcoal paste. A pink or rose
color may be given it by adding 1 drachm of
finely powdered cochineal, or a fluid drachm
or two of the tincture. It is commonly or-
dered in books to be made with honey of roses,
but the alkali of the soap spoils the color of
this article. The above preparation is also
known under the names of Spanish Dentifrice,
and Castilian Tooth Cream.
1312. Violet Tooth Paste. Take of
prepared chalk, 3 ounces ; cuttle-fish bone and
white sugar (powdered), of each, 2 ounces;
orris root (powdered), 1 ounce; smalts, 2 to 3
drachms ; mix with sufficient syrup of violets
to make a paste. A fashionable tooth-paste,
highly esteemed for its power of cleaning the
teeth, and its delicate color and odor..
1313. Odontine. There are several
dentifrices advertised under this name, two
or three of which have acquired a very
large sale in the fashionable world. That of
an eminent perfumery house appears to have
the following composition : — Cuttle-fish bone,
Castile soap and red coral, equal parts ; color
with tincture of cochineal and mix with honey
sufficient to make a paste, and essential oils to
aromatize, a sufficient quantity of each.
1314. Pellitier's Odontine is said to
consist of pulverized sepia-bone (cuttle-fish
bone), with a little butter of cacao, beaten
up with honey and aromatized or scented with
essential oils.
1315. Magic Tooth Paste. Take of
white marble-dust, 2 ounces ; pumice-stone in
impalpable powder, 1£ ounces; rose-pink, £
ounce ; attar of roses, 7 or 8 drops ; mix as
before with sufficient honey to make a paste.
A favorite nostrum for rapidly cleaning and
whitening the teeth, but one not adapted for
free or freqi^ent use.
1316. Charcoal Tooth Paste. Take of
chlorate of potassa iu very fine powder, 1
drachm ; finely powdered charcoal, 2 ounces ;
honey (best raw, cold), 1A ounces; sufficient
mint water to flavor ; form a paste as before.
A rather unchemical mixture, esteemed, par-
ticularly by smokers, for deodorising the teeth
and breath.
1317. To Prepare Charcoal as a Den-
tifrice. To prepare charcoal of the highest
quality, as a dentifrice, requires considerable
skill and care. The substance, whether wood
or nut, should not be in larger than one inch
pieces; the carbonization should be effected
in covered crucibles, at a low red heat — in no
case exceeding a dull cherry red, — and the
whole should be cooled but of contact with the
air. On opening the crucible, only those pieces
should be selected for use which are properly
burnt, and have a uniform dark color and a
dull surface. If the heat employed be much
higher than that named, the charcoal acquires
a brilliant surface, and is greatly deteriorated
in quality. The pieces selected should be
kept in close vessels for further use or opera-
tion ; any exposure to the air weakens its
power of absorption.
1318. Peruvian Tooth Paste. This is
formed by adding about H to 2 drachms of
Peruvian bark, in very fine powder, to every
ounce of the dry ingredients of any simple
tooth paste, before beating them up with
honey or syrup. A useful tonic for tender,
spongy, foul, or scorbutic gums, and said to
fix loose teeth. A little powdered myrrh is
sometimes added.
1319. Quinine Tooth Paste. Take red
coral, 3 ounces; cuttle-fish bone, 1 ounce;
disulphate of quinine, £ drachm ; mix, tritu-
rate to very fine powder, add honey (white),
4 ounces ; and a few drops attar of roses, or
neroli, dissolved in rectified spirit, 3 fluid
drachms ; and beat the whole to a paste. A
little powdered myrrh (1 to 3 drachms) is
sometimes added. A very fashionable and
popular article. Use, &c., the same as Peru-
vian paste.
1320. Opiate Tooth Paste. Honey,
powdered orris, and precipitated chalk (see No.
1291), each k pound ; rose pink, 2 drachms.
Rub into paste with simple syrup, and per-
fume with oils of cloves, nutmeg, and rose,
each £ ounce.
1321. Patey's Orris Tooth Paste.
Take 1 pound Pans white, £ pound rose pink,
3 ounces orris root ; alum, 3 ounce ; oil cloves
and nutmegs, each 1 drachm. TJse honey
enough to form a paste.
1322. Dr. King's Tooth Paste. Pre-^
pared chalk (sec No. 129^), 1 part ; powdered
Peruvian bark, 1 part ; powdered old "Windsor
soap, 1 part. Mix with equal parts of the
tinctures of rhatany and myrrh ; oil of check-
erberry to flavor. This paste is a fine pre-
paration for soft, spongy gums and loose teeth.
Tooth and Mouth Wash-
6S. These are used to rinse the mouth,
and particularly the teeth and gums, a few
drops, more or less, of them being added to
about a wine-glassful of water for the purpose.
In some cases their action is promoted by the
use of the tooth-brush.
1324. Eau Botot. Tincture of cedar
wood, 1 pint ; tincture of myrrh and rhatany,
each 4 ounces ; oil of peppermint and rose,
each 10 drops. Mix.
1325. Violet Mouth Wash. Tincture
of orris, essence of rose, and alcohol, each J
pint ; oil of almonds, 5 drops. Mix.
1326. Mexican Toeth "Wash. Take of
pulverized orris root, 1 ounce ; tonqua beans,
1 ounce ; Peruvian bark, £ ounce ; oak bark, i
ounce; alcohol, 1 pint; water, 1 pint; let the
above stand for 12 days, and filter ; color with
alkanet root. An elegant tooth wash.
1327. Balm of Thousand Flowers.
Take of white Castile soap, 2 ounces ; honey,
4 ounces ; water, 12 ounces ; alcohol, 4 ounces;
melt the Castile soap and honey in the alcohol
138
FUMIGATING PASTILS.
and water with a gentle heat. Flavor with
oil of rose and wintergreen. Used as a denti
frice.
1328. Wash to Harden the Gums
Take & pint of Jamaica spirits, £ tea-spoonfu
each powdered aluin and saltpetre pulverized
and 1 ounce of pulverized myrrh. Mix.
1329. Cologne Tooth Wash. Eau de
Cologne, 1 quart ; tincture of myrrh, 4 ounces
Mix.
1330. Sozodont. Take of salts of tartar
(carbonate of potassa), i ounce; honey, <
ounces; alcohol, 2 ounces ; water, 10 ounces
oil wintergreen and oil rose, sufficient to
flavor. An elegant dentifrice.
1331. Cleveland's Tooth Wash. Tinc-
tures of myrrh, Peruvian baric, aiid gentian
root, each 1 fluid ounce; aqua ammonia, 1
drachm ; pure water, i pint ; tincture oj
wintergreen, or any flavor to suit ; mix. This
is a fine wash for the mouth, gums, and teeth.
1332. Myrrh Tooth Wash; Kirk-
land's Tooth Lotion. Take of tincture oi
myrrh, 1 ounce ; water, 2 ounces ; mucilage,
i ounce ; agitate them well together, and again
each time before use. As a wash in rotten
and loose teeth, foul, spongy, and ulcerated
gums, fetid breath, &c., it is often very
serviceable where there is a scorbutic taint.
1333. Myrrh and Borax Mouth
Wash. Rub well together in. a mortar, 1
ounce each of borax and honey ; then gradu-
ally add 1 quart spirit of wine (not above
proof), and add 1 ounce each of gum myrrh
and red saunders wood. Macerate for 14
days, and filter. This is an excellent wash
for the gums and mouth.
1334. To Cleanse the Spaces Be-
tween the Teeth. Some dentists recom-
mend silk floss for cleaning the spaces between
teeth, but we know from experience, that
No. 8 gum rings are superior. They are much
more convenient in every respect.
1335. Wash to Beautify the Teeth.
Dissolve 2 ounces borax in 3 pounds boiling
water, and before it is cold add 1 tea-spoonful
spirits of camphor, and bottle for use. A
table-spoonful of this mixture, mixed with an
equal quantity of tepid water, and applied
daily with a soft brush, preserves and beauti-
fies the teeth, extirpates all tartarous adhe-
sion, arrests decay, induces a healthy action
in the gums, and makes the teeth pearly
white.
1336. Cachpu Aromatise. These
popular pastilles for perfuming the breath arc
thus made : Dissolve 3& ounces extract of
liquorice in 4 ounces water, by the heat of a
water bath, and add pulverized gum-arabic, \
ounce; and Bengal catechu in powder, 1
ounce. Evaporate to the consistence of an
extract, and then mix in thoroughly, pow
dered mastic, charcoal, cascarilla, and orris
root, each 5 drachm. When the mass has
been reduced to the proper consistence, it is
to be removed from the fire, treated with attar
of peppermint, 30 drops ; tinctures of amber-
gris and musk, 5 drops ; and then poured out
xipon an oiled slab, and rolled to a very thin
sheet. After cooling, blotting paper is pressed
upon it to absorb any adhering oil, and the
surfaces ar^ moistened with water, and
covered with silver leaf. When dry it is to
be divided into small bits of the size of a lentil.
T^umigatang Pastils; In-
•*- Cense Pastilles. These are
small masses essentially composed of pow-
dered charcoal and aromatic substances that
emit fragrant fumes during combustion, with
the addition of sufficient nitre or saltpetre to
cause them to slowly consume away, without
flame, when kindled. Their common form ia
that of a small cone with a triangular or
tripod base, of about \ to 1 inch in height,
and about k inch diameter at the larger part.
This form is most simply and conveniently
given them by pressing the mass, whilst soft,
into a mould of lead or porcelain. The dry
ingredients should be first reduced to fine
powder, and the balsams and essential oils
(if any) being added, the whole should be
thoroughly and perfectly incorporated, after
which the mixture should be beaten to the
consistence of a stiff ductile mass or dough
with the liquid ordered for the purpose.
When powdered gum is one of the ingredients,
the mass should be beaten up with water;
but otherwise mucilage must be employed.
Gum-tragacanth, owing to its greater thicken-
ing and binding powers, is here generally pre-
ferred to gum-arabic. The charcoal of the
light woods, as the linden, willow, and alder,
make the best pastils ; that of the first being
most esteemed for this purpose in France.
The following receipts are among the best
that can be made, and will serve as examples
of these articles, from •which the operator will
be able to devise others :
1338. Dr. Paris's Fumigating Pastils.
Pulverize £ pound benzoin, £ pound cascarilla,
1J- ounces myrrh, and 1-j- pounds charcoal;
mix them through a sieve ; then add f ounce
each of attars of nutmegs and of cloves ; dis-
solve 2 ounces of nitre in sufficient mucilage
of tragacanth to make the whole into a stiff
paste •, beat well in a mortar, make into pas-
tils, and dry.
1339. Perfumers' Fumigating Pas-
tils. Take of gum benzoin, 2 ounces (avoir-
dupois); olibanum (in tears), 14 ounces;
storax (in tears), 1 ounce ; cascariila and gum
tragacanth, of each £ ounce ; nitre, 2 ounces ;
charcoal, 1£ pounds ; mix, and beat them up
with water or rose water.
1340. Piesse's Fumigating Pastils.
Dissolve f ounce nitre in 5 pint rose water ;
mix this with £ pound willow charcoal, and
dry it thoroughly in a warm place. When
the nitrated charcoal is perfectly dry, pour
upon it a mixture of £ drachm each of the
attars of thyme, caraway, rose, lavender,
sloves, and santal ; then stir in 6 ounces
)enzoic acid (flowers of benzoin) ; mix thor-
oughly through a sieve, then beat in a mortar
with sufficient mucilage to bind together.
Make into pastils, and dry.
1 341 . Basis for French Pastils. Take
of charcoal, la pounds avoirdupois : nitre, 2
mnces ; gum-tragacantb, 1 ounce ; mix in
:he dry state. It is used as a basis for the
bllowing French pastils, as well as many
others : —
1342. Pastilles aux Fleurs d'Oranges.
To each pound of Nos. 1341 or 1339, add of
orange powder (genuine), 2£ ounces avoirdu-
>ois ; neroli, 1 Imperial fluid drachm ; and
" eat up the mass with eau de flours d'oranges.
FUMIGATING PASTILS.
139
1343. Pastilles a la Rose. To each
pound of N"os. 1341 or 1342, add of pale rose
powder, 3 ounces avoirdupois; essence of
roses, 2 Imperial fluid drachms ; and beat up
the mass with can de rose.
1344. Pastilles a la Vanille. To each
pound of Nos. 1339 or 1341 (usually the first),
add of vanilla (in fine powder), 2 ounces av-
oirdupois ; cloves (in fine powder), h ounce ;
essence of vanilla, i Imperial fluid ounce ;
oil of cloves, oil of cassia, of each i fluid
drachm ; and beat up the mass with cinnamon
water.
1345. Pastils of Every Variety. The
products of the preceding formulae are of ex-
cellent quality. They may be varied, to please
the fancy of the maker, by the omission of
some of their aromatic ingredients, or by the
addition or substitution of others. Cheaper
articles are made by simply increasing the
proportion of the charcoal and saltpetre.
Good burning qualities depend greatly on the
completeness of the mixture, and the moder-
ate compactness of the mass. If they burn
too slowly, a little more saltpetre may be
added ; if too fast, the quantity of saltpetre
should be slightly lessened. Musk and civet,
though often ordered in books as ingredients
in pastils, should be avoided, as they give out
a disagreeable odor during combustion. Am-
bergris is also unsuited for an ingredient in
them.
1346. Incense. Storax, 2i ounces ; ben-
zoin, 12 ounces ; musk 15 grains ; burnt sugar,
i ounce; frankincense, 2j ounces; gum-tra-
facanth, li ounces; rose-water sufficient to
>rm a mass ; to be divided into small tablets.
1347. Incense. Powdered cascarilla, 2
ounces ; myrrh, storax, benzoin, burgundy
pitch, each 1 ounce ; mix. Or :
1348. Fine Incense. Take of olibanum
(true), 7 parts; gum benzoin, 2 parts; mix.
Or : To the last, add of cascarilla 1 part. The
preceding, placed on a hot iron plate, or burned
m a censer, were formerly used to perfume
apartments. The incense used in the rites of
the Roman Catholic Church, and in the tem-
ples of India, consists wholly or chiefly of
olibanum.
1349. Preserved Flowers and Herbs.
Flowers, herbs, and other like vegetable sub-
stances, are now generally preserved, for dis-
tillation, by means of common salt. The
process simply consists in intimately mixing
the flowers, &c., with about £ their weight of
good dry salt, and ramming down the mixture
as tightly as possible, in strong casks or jars.
The casks or jars are then placed in the cellar,
or other cold place, and covered with boards,
on which heavy weights are put, to keep the
mass tight and close. In this state they may
be preserved from season to season, or even
for two or three years. The flowers, &c.,
should be recently gathered, and free from
dew or moisture ; and the salt should be quite
dry, to ensure which it may be exposed for 2
or 3 hours in an oven. The above is the
method now generally followed, by our man-
ufacturing perfumers and wholesale druggists,
for preserving fresh aromatic vegetable sub-
stances for subsequent distillation. It is
found that the odor of distilled waters, oils,
&c.t obtained from flowers, &c., thus pre-
served, is superior to that of those from either
the recent or dried vegetables ; whilst the
products keep better, and are quite free from
the peculiar rawness found in those from
fresh herbs and flowers, and which nothing
but age, or redistillation, will remove.
1350. To Scent Tobacco. Fragrance
may bo imparted to tobacco, by mixing with
it, while slightly damp, a little cascarilla,
either in very fine shreds or recently powder-
ed ; or by a like addition of any of the sub-
stances noticed under fumigating pastils (see
No. 1339) of which the odor is appropriate to
the purpose. Cigars may be perfumed by
moistening them externally with concentrated
tincture of cascarilla, or tincture of benzoin
or storax, or a mixture of them ; or a minute
portion of the powders, shred roots, or woods,
may be done up with the bundle of leaves
that form the centre of the cigar. The so-
called anti-choleraic and disinfecting cigars
are scented with camphor, cascarilla, and
benzoin.
1351. Scented or Aromatic Candles.
These are prepared by introducing a very
small quantity of any appropriate aromatic
into the material (fat, wax, or wick) of which
they are made, whilst it is in the liquid state.
Camphor, gum benzoin, balsam of Peru, cas-
carilla, essential oils, &c., are generally the
substances selected. Care must be taken not
to overdo it, as then the candles will burn
smoky and give little light.
1352. To Make Snuff Scents. Of the
substances used, singly and combined, to scent
snuff, the following may be mentioned as the
principal: — tonqua beans, and their oil or
essence; ambergris, musk, civet, and their
essences.
1353. To Scent Snuff. A sufficient
quantity of the powder, essence, or oil, hav-
ing been well mixed with a little snuff, the
perfumed mixture is added to the whole
quantity of snuff to be scented, and the mass
well stirred up and turned over. It is lastly
passed or rubbed through a sieve, to ensure
the perfect diffusion of the scent through the
whole mass.
1354. To Restore the Odor of Musk.
Genuine musk frequently becomes nearly in-
odorous by keeping, but its perfume is restored
by exposing it to the fumes of ammonia, or
by moistening it with ammonia water.
1355. Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish
Skin, is merely highly-perfumed leather.
Take of oil of rose, neroli, and santal, each 4
ounce; oil of lavender, verbena, bergamot,
each | ounce ; oil of cloves and cinnamon,
each 2 drachms ; in this dissolve 2 ounces
gum benzoin. In this steep good pieces of
waste leather for a day or two, and dry it
over a line. Prepare a paste by rubbing in
a mortar, 1 drachm of civet with 1 drachm of
grain musk, and enough gum-tragacanth
mucilage to give a proper consistence. The
leather is cut up into pieces about 4 inches
square ; two of these are pasted together with
the above paste, placed between 2 pieces of
paper, weighted or pressed until dry. It may
then be inclosed in silk or satin. It gives off
its odor for years ; is much used for perfuming
paper, envelopes, &c.; for which purpose 1 or
2 pieces of the perfumed leather, kept in the
drawer or desk containing the uaper, will
impart to it a fine and durable perfume.
14,0
SYRUPS.
SVTHpS. Syrups are solutions of
sugar more or less strong according to
the object for which they are used. In the
preparation of syrups, if care be taken to em-
ploy the best refined sugar, and either distilled
water or filtered rain water, they will bo
rendered much less liable to spontaneous
decomposition, and will be perfectly trans-
parent, without the trouble of clarification.
1357. Clarification of Sugar for
Syrups. "When inferior sugar is employed,
clarification is always necessary. This is
best done by dissolving the sugar in the water
or fruit juices cold, and then beating up a
little of the cold syrup with some white of
egg, and 1 or 2 ounces of cold water, until the
mixture froths well ; this must be added to
the syrup in the boiler, and the whole whisked
up to a good froth ; heat should now be ap-
plied, and the scum which forms removed
from time to time with a clean skimmer. As
soon as the syrup begins to slightly simmer
it must be removed from the fire, and allowed
to stand until it has cooled a little, when it
should be again skimmed, if necessary, and
then passed through a clean flannel. When
vegetable infusions or solutions enter into the
composition of syrups, they should be ren-
dered perfectly transparent, by filtration or
clarification, before being added to the sugar.
1358. Filters for Syrups. Syrups are
usually filtered, on the large scale, by passing
them through creased bag filters; on the
small scale, conical flannel bags are usually
adopted. Thick syrups filter with difficulty,
hence it is a good plan to dilute them before
filtering, and' afterwards evaporate them to
the required consistency. For small quantities
clarification involves less trouble than filtra-
tion. (See No. 1357.)
1359. To make a
Take a square piece of
flannel or Canton flan-
nel, fold it diagonally,
and sew two of the
corresponding edges to-
gether with an over-lap
seam, leaving the other
two edges open ; then
fold the open edge over,
sufficiently to make the
opening level. (See Fig.
1.) This fold gives a
considerable degree of
stiffness to the open
end, preventing the filter in some measure
from collapsing. Professor Parrish, in his book
on Practical Pharmacy,
recommends the use of a
conical wire frame (see
Fig. 2) to support the fil-
ter. The frame is made to
fit into the top of a suita-
ble tin bucket, being sup-
ported by a riin or flange
around the top of the
frame, projecting sufii- m 2
ciently to rest on the edge
of the bucket. The filter must fit the frame.
1360. Quantity of Sugar Used in
Making Syrups. The proper quantity o
sugar for syrups will, in general, be found t(
be"2 pounds avoirdupois to every pint of wa
Conical Filter.
er or thin aqueous fluid. These proportions
illow for the water that is lost by evaporation
Luring the process, and are those best calcu-
ated to produce a syrup of the proper consist-
ence, and possessing good keeping qualities.
?hey closely correspond to those recomrnend-
5(1 by Guibourt for the production of a perfect
yrup, which, he says, consists of 30 parts
,ugar to 10 parts water. To make highly
rausparent syrups the sugar should be m a
-.ingle lump, and by preference taken from the
Bottom or broad end of the loaf; as, when
;aken from the smaller end, or if it be pow-
lered or bruised, the syrup will be more or
ess cloudy.
1361. Amount of Heat to be Em-
ployed in Making Syrups. In the prep-
aration of syrups it is of great importance to
employ as little heat as possible, as a solution
of sugar, even when kept at the temperature
>f boiling water, undergoes slow decomposi-
ion. The best plan is to pour the water
cold) over the sugar, and to allow the two
io lie together for a few hours, in a covered
vessel, occasionally stirring, and then to ap-
}ly a gentle heat, preferably that of steam or
i water-bath, to finish the solution. Some
persons (falsely) deem a syrup ill prepared
mless it has been allowed to boil well ; but if
this method be adopted, the ebullition should
je only of the gentlest kind (simmering), and
;hould bo checked after the lapse of one or
,wo minutes. When it is necessary to thicken
j, syrup by boiling, a few fragments of glass
should bo introduced, in order to lower the
boiling point. In boiling syrups, if they ap-
pear likely to boil over, a little oil, or rubbing
the edge of the pan with soap, will prevent it.
Syrups arc judged by the manufacturer to bo
sufficiently boiled, when some taken up in a
spoon pours out like oil ; or, a drop cooled on
the thumb nail gives a proper thread when
touched. (Sec No. 1368.) When a thin skin
appears on blowing upon the syrup, it is
judged to be completely saturated. These
rude tests often lead to errors, which might be
easily prevented by employing the proper
proportions, or determining the specific
gravity.
1362. Table of Specific Gravities of
Syrups.
The degrees of Baume here given are those
of his heavy saccharometer.
Fig. 1.
Sugar
in 100 parts.
Specific
Gravity.
Degrees
Baume.
0
1.000 '
0°
5
1.020
3
10
1.040
6
15
1.062
8
20
1.081
11
25 .
1.104
13.5
30
1.128
16.3
35
1.152
19
40
1.177
21.6
45
1.204
24.5
50
1.230
27
55
1.257
29.5
60
1.284
32
67
1.321
35
The latter density is about the syrupus of
the pharmacopoeias; that of the IT. S. Ph. has a
sp. grav. 1.317 ; that of the British Ph. is 1.330.
SYRUPS.
1363. To Determine the Density of
Syrup. A fluid ounce of saturated syrup
weighs 577 £ grains; a gallon weighs 13|
pounds avoirdupois; its specific gravity is
1.319 to 1.321, or 35° Baume; its boiling point
is 221° Pah., and its density at the tempera-
ture of 212° is 1.260. to 1.261, or 30° Baume.
The syrups prepared with the juices of fruits
mark about 2° or 3° more on Baum6's scale
than the other syrups. (Coolcy.) According
to Ure, the decimal part of the number denot-
ing the specific gravity of a syrup, multiplied
by 26, gives the number of pounds of sugar it
contains per gallon, very nearly.
1364. To Preserve Syrups. The pre-
servation of syrups, as well as of all saccharine
solutions, is best promoted by keeping them
in a moderately cool, but not a very cold place.
Let syrups be kept in vessels well closed, and
in a situation where the temperature never
rises above 55° Pah. They are better kept in
small than in large bottles, as the longer a
bottle lasts, the more frequently it will be
opened, and, consequently, the more it will
be exposed to the air. By bottling syrups
whilst boiling hot, and immediately corking
down and tying the bottles over with blad-
der, perfectly air-tight, they may be preserved,
even at a summer heat, for years, without
fermenting or losing their transparency.
1365. To Prevent Syrup from Candy-
ing. The candying or crystallization of
syrup, unless it be over-saturated with sugar,
may bo prevented by the addition of a little
acetic or citric acid (2 or 3 drachms per gal-
lon) ; confectioners add a little cream of tartar
to the sugar, to prevent granulation.
1366. To Prevent Syrup from Fer-
menting. The fermentation of syrups may
be effectually prevented by the addition of a
little sulphite of potassa or of lime. A cele-
brated Prench chemist recommends the addi-
tion of about 3 to 4 per cent, sugar of rnilk,
with the same intention. Fermenting syrups
may be immediately restored by exposing the
vessel containing them to the temperature of
boiling water. The addition of a little spirit
is also good.
1367. To Bleach Syrup. Syrups may
be decolored by agitation with, or filtration
through, animal charcoal.
1368. Degrees of Boiling Sugar.
In preparing 'sugar for candies, <fcc., the con
fectioner requires different degrees of boiling
in order to bring the sugar to the proper
state for the various articles he prepares.
Well clarified and perfectly transparent syrup
is boiled until a skimmer dipped into it, and a
portion touched between the forefinger and
thumb, on opening them, is drawn into a
small thread which crystallizes and breaks.
This is called a weak candy height.
If boiled again, it will draw into a larger
string, and if bladders may be blown with the
mouth through the drippings from the ladle,
it has acquired the second degree, and is
called bloom sugar.
After still further boiling, it arrives at the
state called feathered sugar. To determine
this, dip the skimmer and shake it over the
pan, then give it a sudden flirt or jerk, and the
sugar will fly off like feathers.
The next degree is that of crackled sugar, in
which state the sugar that hangs to a stick
dipped into it, and put directly into cold wa-
ter, is not dissolved off, but turns hard and
snaps.
The last stage of boiling reduces it to cara-
mel sugar, and is proved by dipping a stick
into the sugar and then into cold water, when,
on the moment it touches the water, it will
snap like glass. It has now arrived at a full
candy height.
Throughout the boiling, the fire must not
be too fierce, as it will discolor the syrup.
The best safeguard against this is the use of
steam heat. Color may be given to the
candy by adding the coloring matter to the
syrup before boiling it. Flavoring essences
must be added when the process is nearly
complete.
1369. To Make Syrups for the Man-
ufacture of Cordials and Liquors. Take
1 pint of water to every 2 pounds of sugar
used ; this proportion will make a fine syrup,
about 32® Baum6, but the manufacturer often
requires weaker syrups when preparing infe-
rior cordials, and the easiest method of ascer-
taining the proper point of concentration is
by the use of that variety of Baum6's hy-
drometer, called a saccharometer. Beat up
the whites of 2 eggs (if you are clarifying
about 10 pounds of sugar, or mix in this pro-
portion), until it is very frothy, and then mix
in with the rest.
1370. Plain Syrup. Put into a very
clean copper, 100 pounds loaf sugar and 3
gallons water; take the white of 12 good
eggs, whisk them up to a froth in a pan, and
put them into a copper before the fire is light-
ed ; stir them well in the sugar, make a good
fire, and let the mixture be still. As it comes
toward boiling, the scurn will rise ; be par-
ticular not to let it bubble or boil, but simmer ;
as soon as the scum is seen to break through
the edge of the copper, damp the fire, and
take off the first scum ; then stir it up and
let it simmer ; keep skimming it until it be-
comes clear and bright, and the scum as white
as milk ; then draw your fire, and take it out
of the copper, and it will be fit for use. The
quantity thus made will be 10 gallons.
1371. Gum Syrup. Dissolve 20 pounds
best clear white gum-arabic in 4 gallons water
nearly boiling hot; take 60 pounds sugar,
melt and clarify it with 1 gallon water, add
the gum solution, and boil for 2 minutes.
1372. Raspberry Syrup. This syrup
is sometimes used to give a vinous body and
flavor to brandy. It is made of 2 pints filtered
raspberry juice, and 4J pounds sugar. Select
the fruit, either white or red. Having picked
them over, mash them in a pan, which put in
a warm place until fermentation has com-
menced. Let it stand for, about 3 days. All
mucilaginous fruits require this, or else they
would jelly when bottled. N"ow filter the
juice through a close flannel bag, or blotting-
paper, and add sugar in the proportion men-
tioned above ; this had better be powdered.
Place the syrup on'the fire, and as it heats
skim it carefully, but do not let it boil ; or
mix it in a glass vessel or earthenware jar,
and' place in a pan of water on the fire.
(This is simply a water-bath.) When the
syrup is dissolved, so that when you dip
your fore-finger in it and apply it to the ball
of your thumb, and then separate the thumb
SYRUPS.
and finger, the fine thread of syrup reaches
from each without breaking, take it off; strain
through a cloth; bottle when cold; cover
with tissue paper dipped in brandy, and tie
down with a bladder until wanted for use.
1373. Imitation Raspberry Syrup.
Dissolve 50 pounds white sugar in 10 gallons
water; then make an infusion of £ pound
powdered orris root in 5 gallon boiling water,
in a covered vessel, stirring occasionally as it
cools, and when cold, filter through flannel ;
stir this infusion into the syrup; then stir in
i pound tartaric acid previously dissolved in 1
quart water. Color the mixture with J to ^
gallon cherry juice, using more or less, as re-
quired to produce the desired color. This
produces a splendid imitation of raspberry
syrup at a comparatively trifling cost.
1374. Parrish's Strawberry Syrup.
Take 4 quarts fresh fruit ; express the juice,
and strain; acid water until it measures 4
pints. Dissolve 8 pounds raw sugar in this
by the aid of heat; raise it to the boiling
point, and strain. If it is to be kept till the
following season, it should be poured, while
hot, into dry bottles, filled to the neck, and
securely corked. This furnishes a key for the
treatment of the whole family of fruit juices.
1375. Lemon Syrup. Take 5 gallons
lemon juice, 1 ounce best oil of lemons dis-
solved in k pint of alcohol ; or the rinds of 16
lemons rubbed with sugar to extract the es-
sential oil; dissolve 80 pounds of sugar in
the juice, and boil for 2 minutes ; skim, then
strain.
1376. Orgeat Syrup. Take 10 pounds
sweet almonds, 4 pounds bitter almonds;
cover them with boiling hot water ; let them
stand till nearly cold, and peel them by press-
ing through your fingers ; beat them in a
stone or brass mortar to a very fine paste with
some sugar, adding water slowly ; press
through a linen cloth, so as to get 5 gallons
of a liquid resembling rich milk ; dissolve in
this liquid 80 pounds sugar; boil up once,
and add 1 pint orange-flower water; then
strain.
1377. Arrack Punch Syrup. Take
53£ pounds sugar ; 3J- gallons water. Boil
up well, then add 1£ gallons lemon juice, and
stir till the liquid is clear ; pour it into a clean
tub, and, when nearly cool, add 5 gallons Ba-
tavia arrack, then filter.
1378. Syrup of Coffee. Take 10 pounds
best Java coffee, fresh roasted and ground,
and 6 gallons boiling water. Let it stand,
• well covered, till cool ; strain and press ; next
dissolve in this infusion 80 pounds sugar; boil
and skim for 2 minutes, and then strain.
1379. Cinnamon Syrup. Take 1 ounce
oil of Ceylon cinnamon, rubbed and dried up
with carbonate of magnesia in a mortar, so as
to make it a powder ; put it in a filter bag,
and pour 5 gallons water on it ; pour the wa-
ter over and over till it runs clear; get in
this way 5 gallons clear high-flavored water;
dissolve 80 pounds of sugar in the flavored
water, and boil for 2 minutes ; then skim and
strain.
1380. Sirop Capillaire. Maidenhair
Syrup. Take 1 pound maidenhair herb, and
5$- gallons boiling water. Macerate till cold ;
strain without pressing, so as to get 5 gallons;
take the whites of 3 eggs beaten to froth, and
mix them with the infusion; keep back a
quart of the liquid ; then dissolve and boil in
the above 80 pounds sugar by a good heat ;
when the scum rises, put m a little from the
quart of cold liquid, and this will make the
scum settle ; let it raise and settle 3 times ;
then skim, and when perfectly clear add £
pint orange-flower water ; then boil once up
again and strain.
1381. Cherry Syrup. Take 5 gallons
cherry juice; let it ferment a few days; dis-
solve and boil 80 pounds of sugar ; when
clear, skim and strain.
1382. Syrup of Orange Peel. Re-
duce 2 ounces dried orange peel to coarse
powder, put it in a small glass percolator, and
pour deodorized alcohol slowly on it till 6
fluid ounces of tincture have passed : evapo-
rate this spontaneously to 2 fluid ounces ;
triturate this with k ounce carbonate of mag-
nesia, 1 ounce sugar and -J a pint water
gradually added; pour this on a filter, and
when it ceases to pass, add water till a pint of
filtrate is obtained ; to this add 2-J pounds
sugar ; dissolve with a gentle heat, and strain
if necessary.
1383. Punch Syrup. Digest 8 ounces
fresh lemon peel cut in small pieces and
bruised, in 12 ounces Jamaica rum for 3 days,
and strain. Mix 28 ounces strained lemon
juice with 18 ounces rum ; allow it to settle,
and filter through paper. Dissolve 5 pounds
powdered white sugar in 42 ounces rum at a
gentle heat, and when cool, mix all the liquids
together. This is in no way inferior to the
most celebrated European punch syrups.
Syrups for Soda or Min-
eral Waters. The following
is a collection of well approved receipts for
flavoring mineral waters, selected principally
from the "Druggist's Circular and Chemical
Gazette." Most of the syrups not made from
fruits may have a little gum-arabic added, in
order to produce a rich froth when the soda
water is added.
1385. Simple Syrup. To 8 pounds
finest white sugar, add 2 quarts water and the
whites of 2 eggs ; stir until all the sugar is
dissolved ; simmer for 2 or 3 minutes ; skim
well, and strain through a fine flannel bag.
The following syrups for soda water may be
produced by employing the above syrup as a
basis. A variety of other syrups may be made
in the same way by using the artificial fruit
essences. (See No. 1045, also last receipt.)
1386. Simple Syrup. White sugar, 10
pounds ; water, 1 gallon ; isinglass (best), J
ounce (or, the white of an egg). Dissolve
the isinglass in hot water, and add it to the
hot syrup. The syrup is to be made with
gentle heat, and then strained.
1387. Lemon Syrup. Add to simple
syrup, when cold, 20 drops fresh oil of lemon
and A ounce citric acid (previously dissolved
in 3 ounces water) to each gallon. Mix by
shaking well in a bottle, then add 4 ounces
gum solution, made by dissolving 2 ounces
fine white gum-arabic in 2 ounces warm
water.
SYSUPS.
14.3
1388. Lemon Syrup. Grate off the
yellow rind of lemons, and beat it up with a
sufficient quantity of granulated sugar. Ex-
press the lemon juice, add 1 pint water to
each pint of juice and 3i pounds granulated
sugar, including that rubbed up with the rind ;
warm until the sugar is dissolved, and strain.
1389. Sarsaparilla Syrup. To 1 gal-
lon simple syrup add 10 drops oil of anise, 20
drops oil of wiutergreen, 20 drops oil of sassa-
fras, and 6 ounces caramel, or coloring. Before
the oils are added to the syrup, they should be
cut by grinding them in a mortar, with as
much sugar as they will moisten, or mixed
with a small quantity of strong alcohol.
1390. SarsapariUa Syrup. Take oil
of wintergreen, 10 drops; oil of anise, 10
drops ; oil of sassafras. 10 drops ; fluid extract
of sarsaparilla, 2 ounces; simple syrup, 5
pints ; powdered extract of liquorice, k ounce ;
mix well.
1391. Parrish's Syrup of Sarsaparilla
for Mineral Waters. Take simple syrup,
4 pints; compound syrup of sarsaparilla, 4 fluid
ounces; caramel, li ounces; oil of winter-
green, 6 drops ; oil of sassafras, 6 drops ; mix.
1392. Ginger Syrup. Bruised Jamaica
ginger, 2 ounces; boiling water, 1 pint;
macerate for 4 hours ; add fine white sugar, 2
pounds, "and strain through a fine flannel bag.
Ginger syrup may also be made by adding 2
ounces extract of ginger to 1 gallon simple
syrup.
1393. Ginger Syrup. Tincture of
ginger, 2 fluid ounces ; simple syrup, 4 pints ;
mix.
1394. Vanilla Syrup. Vanilla, 6
drachms ; boiling water, 4£ pints ; sugar, 4
pounds avoirdupois. Reduce the vanilla to
fine powder by trituration with a portion of
the sugar ; boil this with water for 2 hours in
a covered vessel, then strain.
1395. Vanilla Syrup. Fluid extract
of vanilla, 1 ounce; citric acid, £ ounce;
simple syrup, 1 gallon; rub the acid with
some. of the syrup, add the extract of vanilla,
and mix.
1396. Wild Cherry Syrup. Steep 4
ounces wild cherry bark, well bruised, in 1
pint cold water, for 36 hours; press out the
infusion; let it stand till clear; decant, and
add li pounds fine white sugar; mix and
strain.
1397. Wild Cherry Syrup. Moisten
5 ounces wild cherry bark, in coarse powder,
with water, and let it stand for 24 hours in a
close vessel. Then pack it firmly in a perco-
lator, and pour water upon it until 1 pint of
fluid is obtained. To this add 28 ounces sugar.
1398. Strawberry Syrup. Take fresh
strawberries and inclose them in a coarse bag ;
press out the juice, and to each quart add 1
pint water and 6 pounds white sugar ; dissolve
by raising it to the boiling point, and strain;
bottle and cork hot, and keep in a cool place.
1399. Strawberry Syrup. Take fresh
strawberries, 5 quarts ; white sugar, 12 pounds ;
water, 1 pint. Sprinkle some of the sugar over
the fruit in layers, and allow the whole to
stand for several hours ; express the juice and
strain, washing out the pulp with water;
add the remainder of sugar and water, bring
the fluid to the point of boiling, and then
strain. This will keep for a long time.
1400. Strawberry Syrup. Strawberry
juice, 1 pint ; simple syrup, 3 pints ; solution
of citric acid (see Fruit Acid), 2 drachms;
mix.
1401. Fruit Acid (used in some of the
syrups). Citric acid, 4 ounces; water, 8
ounces.
1402. Strawberry Syrup Without
the Fruit. Add to 1 gallon simple syrup, 2,
tea-spoonfuls essence of strawberry, and j'
ounce tartaric acid. Color with coloring
made as follows : Boil 1 ounce cochineal with
i tea-spoonful of cream of tartar. Strain.
1403. Raspberry Syrup. Make as
directed for strawberry syrup, either with the
fruit or the essence. The flavor of this syrup
is improved by using 1 pint currants to 5 of
raspberries.
1404. Blackberry Syrup. Make as
directed for straw berry, and add to each quart
1 ounce of the best French brandy.
1405. Pineapple Syrup. Take a con-
venient number of pineapples, pare and mash
them in a marble or porcelain mortar, with a
small quantity of sugar ; express the juice,
and for each quart take li pints water and 6
pounds fine sugar ; boil the sugar and water,
then add the juice ; remove from the fire, and
skim and strain. Or make it with the es-
sence, as directed for strawberry. (See No.
1402.)
1406. Pineapple Syrup. Oil of pine-
apple, 1 drachm ; tartaric acid, 1 drachm ;
simple syrup, 6 pints ; mix. Or : Take 1 gal-
lon expressed pineapple juice; sugar, 15
pounds; fruit acid (see No. 1401), 2 ounces;
mix.
1407. Wintergreen Syrup. Oil of
wintergreen, 25 drops ; simple syrup, 5 pints ;
sufficient burnt sugar to color (see No. 694);
mix.
1408. Maple Syrup. Take maple
sugar, 4 pounds ; water, 2 pints.
1409. Chocolate Syrup. Mix 8 ounces
chocolate in 2 pints water, and stir thoroughly
over a slow fire. Strain, and add 4 pounds
white sugar.
1410. Orange Syrup. Take a con-
venient number of fresh and ripe oranges, grate
off the outside yellow peel ; cut the oranges
and express the juice ; and to each quart add
1 pint water and 6 pounds sugar, previously
well mixed with the grated peel. Dissolve by
gentle heat, then strain.
1411. Pear Syrup. Make as directed
for pineapple syrup, or use the essence of pear,
by adding to each gallon of simple syrup 2
tea-spoonfuls essence of pear and i ounce of
tartaric acid.
1412. Apple Syrup. Make as directed
for pineapple syrup ; or with the appropriate
fruit essence aud acid, as above.
1413. Banana Syrup. Make as directed
for pineapple syrup ; or with the appropriate
fruit essence, as before directed. (SeeNo. 1402.)
Or: Take oil of banana, 2 drachms; tartaric
acid, 1 drachm ; simple syrup, 6 pints ; mix.
1414. Grape Syrup. Brandy, i pint;
spirits of lemon, J- ounce; tincture of red
saunders, 2 ounces; simple syrup, 1 gallon.
Mix.
1415. Orgeat Syrup. Take 3 ounces
sweet almonds and ^ ounce bitter almonds ;
gum-arabic in powder, i ounce; sugar in
ALCOHOL,
powder, 3 ounces. Bub together in a mortar
adding water from time to time, until th
mixture measures 1 quart. Strain through ;
cloth, and mix with 1 gallon of simple syrup
1416. Imitation Orgeat Syrup. Cream
syrup, 1 pint; vanilla syrup, 1 pint; oil o
bitter almonds, 4 drops. Or: About 2 drachm
imitation cream syrup (sec No. 1430) are t<
be mixed with 2 ounces simple syrup and
flavored with bitter almond and orange-nowe:
waters.
1417. Orange-Flower Syrup. Addtc
1 gallon simple syrup h ounce extract of or
ange flowers.
1418. Coffee Syrup. Coflee, roasted, J
pound; boiling water, 1 gallon. Enough i
filtered to make i gallon of the infusion, to
which add granulated sugar, 7 pounds.
1419. Nectar Syrup. Strawberry syrup,
•£ pint ; Madeira wine, 1 ounce ; orgeat syrup^
i pint. • Mix.
1420. Nectar Syrup. Vanilla syrup, 5
pints; pineapple syrup, 1 pint; strawberry,
raspberry, or lemon syrup, 2 pints. Mix.
1421. Sherbet Syrup. Yanilla syrup,
3 pints; pineapple syrup, 1 pint; lemon
syrup, 1 pint. Mix.
1422. Ambrosia Syrup. Raspberry
Byrup, 2 pints; vanilla syrup, 2 pints; Hock
wine, 4 ounces. Mix.
1423. Hock and Claret Syrup. Hock
or claret wine, 1 pint ; simple syrup, 2 pints.
Mix.
1424. Solferino Syrup. Brandy, 1
pint ; simple syrup, 2 pints. Mix.
1425. Cream Syrups. These are pre-
pared by mixing highly flavored syrups with
fresh cream. As this latter does not keep
well, it is a more economical plan to make a
simple cream syrup in suitable quantities, and
to add a portion of it to the flavored syrup as
required. This prevents the loss of different
flavored syrups by spoiling, and allows of the
cream being used for any flavored syrup.
1426. Simple Cream Syrup. Mix to-
gether thoroughly 1 pound powdered sugar
with 1 pint fresh cream. Keep it in pint bot-
tles for use.
1427. Taylor's Cream Syrup. Fresh
cream, i pint; fresh milk, & pint; powdered
sugar, 1 pound. Mix by shaking, and keep
in a cool place. The addition of a few grains
of bicarbonate of soda will for some time re-
tard souring.
1428. Hubbell's Cream Syrup. This
is prepared with If pounds sugar to 1 pint of
cream.
1429. Cream Syrup. Take of fresh
cream, 1 pint; fresh milk, 1 pint; fine pow-
dered sugar, 3 pounds; beat the sugar with
the milk and the whites of 2 eggs, then mix
with the cream. Flavor with vanilla, lemon,
or strawberry. Keep in a cool place, well
bottled.
1430. Imitation Cream Syrup. Make
an emulsion with 3 fluid ounces fresh oil of
sweet almonds, 2 ounces powdered gum-ara-
bic, and 9 ounces water ; then dissolve 1 pound
white sugar by a gentle heat, strain, and
when cool, add the whites of 2 eggs. It
should be put up in small bottles, well corked,
in a cool place. This is not only an excellent
imitation and substitute for cream syrup, but
will keep well for a considerable time.
1431. Cream Syrup. Take cf fresh
unskimmed milk, 1 pint; sugar, 2 pounds,
Troy. Dissolve by shaking in a bottle, add £
of this to J of any of the fruit syrups ; or, for
vanilla cream, add about a table-spoonful of
fluid extract of vanilla to 1 pint.
1432. Vanilla Cream Syrup. Fluid
extract of vanilla, 1 ounce ; simple syrup, 3
pints; cream (or condensed milk), 1 pint.
May be colored with carmine.
1433. Coffee Cream Syrup. Coflee
syrup, 2 pints ; Cream, 1 pint.
1434. Nectar Cream Syrup. This is
a mixture of 3 parts vanilla syrup, 1 part
pineapple syrup, 1 part lemon syrup, and 1
part simple cream syrup.
AlCOllOl. Alcohol is a light, trans-
JL~jLparent, colorless, volatile, inflammable
fluid; mixes in all proportions with water,
with evolution of heat and condensation of
the mixture, but some hours elapse before the
union is complete. It dissolves resins, essen-
tial oils (see No. 940), camphor, bitumen,
soaps, sugar, the alkaloids, wax, spermaceti,
and various other substances. Boils at 172°,
and in a vacuum at 56° Fahr.; curdles milk ;
coagulates albumen, and separates both starch
and gum from their mucilages ; uncongealable
jy cold; powerfully antiseptic to animal or
vegetable substances immersed in it; with
acids it forms ethers. Its evaporation, like that
of ether, produces intense cold. By undergoing
the acetic fermentation it is converted into
vinegar. Dilute alcohol may be procured by
the ordinary process of distillation, from all
'ermented liquors ; when drawn from wine, as
n France, it is called brandy ; when from rice,
as in the East Indies, it is called arrack or
toddy; when from grain or malt, as in the
Jnited States or Great Britain, it is called
whiskey, and when from molasses or the juice
of the sugar-cane, as in the "West Indies, it is
;alled rum.
"Whiskey is the spirit from which alcohol is
usually obtained in this country.
By distilling a hundred gallons of whiskey,
)etween 50 and 60 gallons of alcohol are re-
ceived in the condenser of a specific gravity
jf 0.835. By a second distillation, taking
mre to collect only the first portions, and
cautiously managing the heat so as not to
allow it to rise to the temperature of boiling
water, alcohol may be obtained of a specific
gravity of 0.825, which is the lightest spirit
;hat can be received by ordinary distillation.
At this stage it contains 11 per cent, of wa-
er and some small portions of fusel oil.
The best alcohol is that manufactured under
Attwood's patent process, in which manganic
icid is used to destroy the fusel oil and other
oreign substances. This alcohol withstands
he tests of nitrate of silver and sulphuric
acid remarkably well. (Sec No. 1444.)
The high wine, or rectified spirit, distilled
and rectified in the United States, and often
old as French pure spirit, is free from all
.eleterious substances, and nearly scentless,
ts strength is usually from 84 to 95 per cent.
Sec Nns. 53, #c.)
1436. Proof Spirit contains 52£ per cent.
iy volume of pure alcohol; has a specific
ALCOHOL.
gravity of .920 at 60° Fahr.; and is no more
than a mixture of 49 parts by -weight pare
alcohol with 51 parts water. This is the
strength of the proof spirit usually employed
by perfumers, and for medicinal purposes;
but by law (see No. 58), proof spirit is equal
parts by volume of absolute alcohol and dis-
tilled water, having a specific gravity of .933.
1437. Dilute Alcohol. Alcohol dilutum
( U. S. Ph.) consists of equal measures of offi-
cinal alcohol and water; it contains 39 per
cent, by weight, or 46.33 per cent, by volume,
of pure or absolute alcohol, and has a specific
gravity of .941, equal to 19° of Baum6's light
hydrometer.
1438. Alcohol. Officinal alcohol ( U. S.
Ph.) contains 85 per cent, by weight, or 89 per
cent, by volume, of pure alcohol ; its specific
gravity is .835, or 38.45° Baume.
1439. Stronger Alcohol. Alcohol for-
tius ( U. S. Ph.) has 92 per cent, by weight, or
94.65 per cent, by volume, of pure alcohol ;
and a specific gravity of .817, or about 42°
Baume.
1440. Amylic Alcohol. A peculiar
oily, nearly colorless acrid liquid, known also
as Fusel oil, obtained by distilling fermented
grain or potatoes, by continuing the process
after the* ordinary spirit has ceased to come
over. Its specific gravity is .818, and its boil-
ing point 268° to 272° Fahr. ( U. S. Ph.)
1441. Absolute Alcohol. To procure
absolute or anhydrous alcohol, take the bladder
of an ox or calf, soak it for some time in
water, then inflate it and carefully free it
from the attached fat and vessels ; this must
be done on both sides. After it is again
inflated and dried, smear over the outer sur-
face twice, and the inner surface four times,
with a solution of isinglass. Then nearly fill
it with the spirit to be concentrated, leaving
only a small space vacant ; it is then to be
securely fastened, and suspended in a warm
situation, at a temperature of about 122°
Fahr., over a sand bath, or in the neighbor-
hood of an oven or fire. In six to twelve
hours, if the heat be. properly conducted, the
spirit will be concentrated, and in a little
time longer may be rendered
nearly free from water (an-
hydrous) or of the strength
of 97 or 98 per cent.
This alcohol will be suffi-
ciently pure for all the com-
mon purposes of the man-
ufacturers, and is an excel-
lent spirit for making var-
nishes, <fec.
The same bladder will
serve more than one hun-
dred times; and in fact a
common bladder, thorough-
ly cleansed from fat, and
washed and dried, may be
used without any further
preparation. The bladder
should be kept very nearly
full, or else a portion of the
spirit will escape through
the empty part. To pre-
vent this accident, a bottle
with a double neck, of the shape represented
in the engraving, may be employed. By this
means the bladder may be kept always full.
A, A bottle with two necks, the upper
furnished with a ground-glass stopper.
B, Loop of cord to hang up the apparatus.
C, Bladder containing spirit, rilled by
means of the bottle, A.
D, Neck of bladder accurately secured to
the lower neck of the bottle, A.
After the first or second time of using the
bladder, it gives alcohol sufficiently pure for
most experimental purposes. Before hanging
the apparatus up, it is better to enclose and
suspend it in a coarse netting, which will pre-
vent any accident arising from the strain on
the neck of the bladder. Should weaker spirit
than that directed in the preceding formula
be used, to procure alcohol by either method, it
must be previously concentrated, or the ope-
ration repeated a second time.
Absolute alcohol is used to dissolve resins
by the varnish maker ; essential oils, by the
perfumer; pyroxyline (gum cotton), by the
photographer; and by the pharmaceutist to
prepare tinctures and for many other pur-
poses.
1442. Chemical Method of Procuring
Absolute Alcohol. Take 1 gallon of the
alcohol of commerce ; throw 1 pound freshly
made chloride of calcium into the alcohol, and.
as Boon as it is dissolved, distill off 7 pints and
5 fluid ounces. Or, take of rectified spirit 1
imperial pint; lime, 18 ounces; break the lime
into small fragments, mix with the alcohol in
a retort properly connected, and expose the
mixture to a gentle heat until the lime begins
to slake; then withdraw the heat until the
slaking is finished. Now raise the heat gently
and distill off 17 fluid ounces. Alcohol thus
obtained will have a density, when the ope-
ration is carefully managed, of 0.796.
1443. To increase the Strength of
Common. Alcohol. Take a pint of common
spirits, and put it into a bottle which it will
only fill about i full. Add to it £ ounce
pearlash or salt of tartar, powdered as much
as it can be without occasioning any great
loss of its heat. Shake the mixture frequent-
ly for about half an hour, before which time
a considerable sediment, like phlegm, will be
separatedfromthe spirits, and will appear along
with the undissolved pearlash or salt at the
bottom of the bottle. Then pour the spirit off
into another bottle, being careful to bring
none of the sediment or salt along with it.
For this purpose an instrument called a
separating funnel is well adapted. To the
quantity just poured off add •£ ounce pearlash,
powderea and heated as before, and repeat
the same treatment. Continue to do this as
often as necessary, till little or no sediment
forms ; when this is the case, 1 ounce of alum,
powdered and made hot, but not burned, must
be put into the spirits, and suffered to remain
some hours, the bottle being frequently shaken
during the time ; after which the spirit, when
poured off, will be found free from all impu-
rities, and equal to the best rectified spirits
of wine.
1444. To Test the Purity of Alcohol.
The presence of water may be detected by
its specific gravity. Fusel oil may be de-
tected by adding a little of a solution of
nitrate of silver to the alcohol. Dissolve 10
grains nitrate of silver in 1 ounce of pure dis-
tilled water. Then take half a tumblerful of
ALCOHOL.
the suspected liquor and drop into it 25
drops of the above solution; and if the
liquid should contain any grain oil, it will
assume the form of a black powder and
float on the surface. The action of this test
is not always immediate, for it is sometimes
necessary to wait from 1 to 30 hours when
testing a sample of alcohol which has been
well rectified, before any evidence of the oil or
Eowder can be perceived floating on the
quid, and even then it is necessary to expose
the glass to a strong light before the powder
can be discovered.
For detecting fusel oil in alcohol, Mr. E. N.
Kent finds pure sulphuric acid the best test.
Half fill a test tube with the spirit to be
tested, then fill up slowly with pure concen-
trated sulphuric acid. Pure spirit remains
colorless; impure spirit becomes colored in
proportion to the amount of fusel oil present.
1 per cent, of wood spirit (wood naphtha) in
alcohol, will cause it to turn yellow or brown
with the addition of caustic potassa. Pure
alcohol is neutral to test paper; should be
colorless; will evaporate entirely by heat;
retains its transparency when combined with
water or ether ; tastes and smells vinous.
1445. To Free Alcohol from Fusel
Oil. This may be effected by digesting the
alcohol with charcoal. By Schaefier's method
the alcohol is filtered through alternate layers
of sand, wood-charcoal, boiled wheat, and
broken oyster shells ; this removes all other
impurities as well. The fusel oil can be ex-
tracted from small quantities of alcohol, by
adding a few drops of olive oil to the spirit,
agitating thoroughly in a bottle, and, after
settling, decanting. The olive oil dissolves
and retains the fusel oil.
1446. To Deodorise Whiskey or Al-
cohol and free it from Fusel Oil. To the
barrel of liquor add abeut a gallon (or more)
of water saturated with chlorine; stir up
thoroughly, and let it rest for 12 hours. Then
saturate with chalk; add another gallon of
water, and distill.
1447. To Filter Alcohol. The follow-
ing method of filtering alcohol, or its solutions,
is said to be very satisfactory, and is used ex-
tensively in North Germany, where it consti-
tutes one of the secrets of the trade. Clean,
unsized paper (Swedish filtering paper is the
best), is torn into shreds and stirred into the
liquid to be clarified. The whole is then
strained through a flannel bag, when the re-
sulting liquid will be found to possess the
utmost clearness and limpidity. A filter may
also be made by spreading thin paper pulp
evenly upon stretched flannel or woolen cloth.
"When dry, the cloth so coated will be found
to give better results than the felts, etc., com-
monly employed as filters. (See Nos. 714 and
811.)
1448. To Test the Strength of Alco-
hol. Alcohol dissolves chloroform, so that
when a mixture of alcohol and water is shaken
up with chloroform, the alcohol and chloroform
unite, leaving the water separate. On this
fact Basile Rakowitsch, of the Imperial
Russian Navy, has founded his invention.
The instrument he uses is a graduated glass
tube into which a measured quantity of
chloroform is poured, and to this is added a
given quantity of the liquid to be tested;
these are well mixed together and then left to
subside ; the chloroform takes up the alcohol
and leaves the water, which, being lighter
than the chloroform, will float on the top ;
and the quantity of water that has been mixed
with the spirit will be at once seen.
1449. Arithmetical Rules for the
Treatment of Alcohol. The following
excellent rules, derived from various sources,
contain, and will yield to the manufacturer,
much information of a very useful character.
1450. To Ascertain the Cost of any
Quantity of Alcohol at any Degree or
Percentage of Strength Above or Be-
low Proof. Alcohol is always bought and
sold at so much above or below proof. To
ascertain the price of a quantity of alcohol,
add the percentage over proof, or deduct the
percentage under proof, and multiply by the
price per gallon. Thus : what will 40 gallons
of alcohol, 25 per cent, over proof, cost at 28
cents proof? We first find 25 per cent, of 40,
which is 10 ; we then add that number to 40,
the number of gallons, and we get 50 ; we
then multiply 50 by 28, the price per gallon
proof, and get $14.00, or 35 cents per gallon.
Again, what will 40 gallons alcohol, 25 per
cent under proof, cost, at 28 cents per gallon
proof? Again, we find that 25 per cent, of 40
is 10 ; we then deduct 10 from 40, this leaves
us 30; by multiplying 30 by 28 we get $8.40,
or 21 cents per gallon.
1451. To Ascertain How Much Wa-
ter Should be Added to Spirits, to Re-
duce it from a Given Degree of Strength
to a Lower Degree or Percentage of
Strength. The manufacturer may some-
times find it necessary to reduce or increase
the strength of spirit, according as circum-
stances may require. To accomplish, this,
we give the following rules, which will be
found useful to the dealer : multiply the num-
ber of gallons by the actual degree of strength
of the spirit, and divide the amount by the
degree ol strength sought to be obtained, and
from the answer subtract 100; the amount
thus obtained will show the quantity of water
to be added to the spirit in order to reduce it
to the degree sought. For example : suppose
you have 100 gallons of spirit at 80° by
Tralles' hydrometer, and wish to reduce it to
50° or proof. Multiply 100 by 80, and divide
the amount by 50, then from the answer sub-
tract 100 ; this will show that 60 gallons of
water must be added to the spirit in order to
reduce it to 50° Tralles', or proof.
Thus, 100 gallons
Multiplied by 80
Divided by 50)8000(160
Deduct ' 100
60
1452. To Ascertain the Quantity of
Pure or Absolute Alcohol in any Given
Amount of Liquor. The quantity of alco-
hol contained in any amount of liquor is
readily ascertained after testing the strength
with Tralles' hydrometer at 60° Fahr., by
simply multiplying the figures expressing the
quantity of liquor, by the ascertained strength ;
for example : a barrel of brandy containing 32
gallons, 60° strong at 60° Fah., contains 19£
gallons pure alcohol. Rule. — Multiply the
ALCOHOL.
'14,7
number of gallons by the ascertained degrees
of strength, and divide by 100. Thus :
32 gallons,
60° Tralles' at 60° Fahr.
19.20, or 191- gallons pure alcohol.
1453. To Ascertain the Number- of
Gallons at any Required Number Below
Proof, in any Given Number of Proof
Gallons. Multiply the given number ol
proof gallons by 100, and then divide the pro-
duct tbus obtained by a number found by
deducting the required number of degrees be-
low proof from 100. The quotient •will be
the answer. For example : How many gal-
lons, 25 below proof, are there in 35 gallons
proof?
100 35 gallons proof,
25 B. P. 100
75 )3500(46f gallons 25 below proof.
We thus see by the above example that 35
gallons proof spirit is equal to 46f gallons 25
below proof.
1454. To Increase the Strength of a
Spirit from any Degree to a Higher
given Degree, or Percentage. To in-
crease the degree of strength of a spirit, multi-
ply the number of gallons by the actual degree
of strength of the spirit, and divide by the
degree of strength sought to be obtained.
For example: suppose you have 100 gallons
of spirit at proof, or 50° by Tralles' hydrom-
eter, and wish to increase its strength to 80°.
Multiply 100 gallons by 50 and divide by 80 ;
the answer will give you the number of gal-
lons of spirit, 625, to be added to the 100 gal-
lons in spirit in order to increase its volume to
80° by Tralles' hydrometer.
Thus, 100
50
80)5000
62.4, or 62i
1455. To Reduce Spirit a Given
Number Above Proof to a Required
Number Below Proof, by the Addition
of Water. Multiply the number of gallons
of spirit by the sum of the given degree above
proof and the required degree below proof,
and divide the product by a number to be
found by subtracting the required proof from
100. The quotient will give the number of
gallons of water to be added.
Suppose you want to reduce 40 gallons
spirit 20 above proof to' 10 below proof,
how much water must be added to accom-
plish the result ?
100 40 gallons.
Required proof, 10 30
90)1,200(13J gals, water.
It will thus be seen that, to reduce 40 gal-
lons spirit 20 above proof to 10 below proof, it
will be necessary to add 13$- gallons of water,
makiug 53J- gallons in all.
1456. To Reduce High Proof Spirit
to a Required Lower Proof, by the Ad-
dition of Water. First multiply the num-
ber of gallons by a number expressing the
difference in degrees of strength between the
given proof of the spirit to be reduced and the
required degree, or proof, to which it is to be
reduced. Divide the product thus ascertained
by a number to be found by adding the re-
quired proof to 100.
Suppose you desire to reduce 72 gallons
spirit at 30 above proof to 10 above proof,
how much water must you add ?
30, given strength.
10, required strength.
20, difference.
Required strength, 10 72, No. of gals.
100 20, difference.
110)1,440(13^ gals.
Thus it will be seen that, to reduce 72 gal-
lons spirit at 30 above proof to 10 above
proof, it is necessary to add 13-jV gallons of
water, making about 85 gallons in all.
1457. To Reduce Spirit of a Given
Number Above Proof to a Required
Number Below Proof, by the Substitu-
tion of Water for Spirit. Deduct the num-
ber below proof from 100, and multiply the
number of gallons by the remainder. Then
add the number which the given liquor is
above proof to 100. and divide the above pro-
duct by the number thus obtained. The
quotient, deducted from the original number
of high proof gallons, will give the answer
required. All small fractions may be rejected.
Suppose you want to reduce a cask of 40
gallons spirit at 20 above proof to 10 h«l"~
proof.
100
10
Multiply 90
by 40
To 100 add 20=120)3,600(30
Original number of gallons, 40
Deduct quotieot, 30
Answer, 10 gallons.
Thus it will be seen that 10 gallons should
be removed, and their place supplied with
water, in order to make the mixture equal to
10 degrees below proof.
1458. To Reduce Spirit of a Given
Number Above Proof to Proof Spirit,
by the Substitution of Water for Spirit.
Multiply the number of gallons by 100, then
add the number which the spirit is above
proof to 100, and divide the above product by
the number thus obtained ; subtract the quo-
tient from the number expressing the original
quantity of spirit, and the answer will give
the number of gallons to be removed from
the spirit and replaced with water, in order to
reduce the high proof spirit down to proof.
Suppose you want to reduce a cask of 24
gallons of spirit 20 above proof to proof spirit.
Above proof, 20 24
100 100
120)2,400(20
Original quantity 24
20
Answer, 4
It will be seen by the above example that
4 gallons have to be taken from the spirit
and the same quantity of water added, to re-
duce it to proof.
148
ESSENTIAL OILS.
1459. To Baise Spirit of a Given
Number Under Proof to a Required
Strength Above Proof, by the Substitu-
tion of High Proof Spirit. Multiply the
number of gallons by the number expressing
the difference in degrees of strength between
the high proof spirit to be added and the re-
quired degree to which it is to be raised.
Divide the product thus found by a number
to be obtained by adding the given number
below proof to the number the high spirit is
above proof; then subtract the quotient from
the original number of gallons, and the re-
mainder will show the quantity of low spirit
to be removed and its place supplied by the
addition of the same quantity of high proof
spirit.
Suppose you desire to raise a cask of 40
gallons at 10 below proof to 15 above proof,
by means of spirit 40 above proof:
40 40 A. p. 40 number of gals.
15 10 B. B. 25 multiplied by diff.
Diff. 25 50 )1000(20
40 gals, original quantity to be raised.
20 deduct quotient.
20 answer.
The above example shows that 20 gallons
should be taken from the low proof spirit,
and the sume quantity of spirit added at 40
above proof, to raise it to 15 above proof.
1460. To Raise Spirit of a Given
Number Below Proof to Proof Spirit,
by the Substitution of High Proof
Spirit. Multiply the number of gallons by
the number which the high proof spirit is above
proof, divide the product by a number to be
found by adding the given number the spirit
is below proof to the number the high spirit
is above proof; subtract the quotient from the
original number of gallons, and the remainder
will show the quantity of low proof spirit to
be removed, and its place to be supplied by
the addition of high proof spirit.
Suppose you desire to raise a cask of 40
gallons at 5 below proof, to proof, by means
of spirit 35 degrees above proof.
35 A. p. 40 number of gallons.
5 B. p. 35 above proof.
40 )1400(35 quotient.
40 gallons, -,
35 quotient,
5 answer.
It will thus be seen that 5 gallons should
be taken from the low proof spirit, and the
same quantity of spirit added at 35 above
proof, in order to raise it to proof strength.
1461. To Raise Spirit of a Given
Number Above Proof to a Still Higher
Degree of Strength, by the Addition of
High Proof Spirit. First multiply the
number of gallons by a number expressing the
difference in degrees of strength between the
given proof of the spirit to be raised, and the
required degree to which it is to be raised.
Divide the product thus ascertained, by a
number to be found by subtracting the differ-
ence in degrees between the spirit to be raised
and the high proof spirit employed to raise
it. The quotient will show the number of
gallons of a higher proof which must be added.
Suppose you desire to raise a cask of 35
gallons spirit 15 above proof to 20 above proof,
by the addition of spirit 30 above proof.
20 required proof,
15. given proof,
5 'difference.
From 30 35 number of gallons.
Subtract 15 5 multiplied by difference.
15 )175(11? answer.
1462. To Reduce Low Proof Spirit
to a Still Lower Proof, by the Addition
of Water. First multiply the number of
gallons by the difference in degrees of strength
between the given proof of the spirit to be
reduced, and the required proof to which it is
to be reduced. Divide the product by a num-
ber ascertained by subtracting the given proof
from 100, and the quotient will give the num-
ber of gallons of water to be added.
Suppose you want to reduce 40 gallons
spirit 10 below proof, to 15 below proof.
Eequired proof 15
Given proof 10
Difference 5
100 40 gallons
10 given proof 5 difference
• 90 )200(2$ gals, water
1463. To Raise a Low Proof Spirit
to a Higher Required Proof by the Ad-
dition of High Proof Spirit. Multiply
the number of gallons by a number express-
ing the difference in degrees of strength be-
tween the given proof of the spirit to be
raised, and the required proof to which it is
to be raised. Divide the product thus ascer-
tained by the sum of the given proof, and the
high proof spirit to be added, and the quotient
will give the answer.
Suppose you desire to raise 40 gallons spirit
15 below proof to 10 below proof with spirit
10 above proof.
Given proof 15
Required proof 10
Difference 5
Given proof 15
High proof 10
40 gallons
5 difference
25 )200(8 gals, answer.
Essential Oils; Volatile
Oils. The essential or volatile oils
are an extensive and important class of bodies
derived from the vegetable kingdom, and
found in almost every part of the larger num-
ber of the plants which produce them, except
the cotyledons of the seeds, which, in general,
form the exclusive repository of the fixed
oils. It is the volatile oils which confer upon
flowers, leaves, fruit, seeds, roots, barks, and
woods, their peculiar and characteristic odors ;
but among these they are not equally dis-
tributed in the same individual, and are oft.en
altogether absent from some of them. To
them we are indebted for our most delightful
perfumes, and our choicest aromatic* and
spices. All of them, when perfectly pure, are
ESSENTIAL OILS.
149
colorless; though, before rectification, nearly
the whole of them have a pale yellow tint,
and some of them are brown, blue, or green.
They mix in all proportions with the fixed
oils, dissolve freely in both alcohol and ether,
and are sparingly soluble in water,* forming
perfumed or medicated waters. (See Nos. 1080,
<fc. ) Their boiling point usually ranges be-
tween 310° and 325° Fahr., and is always con-
siderably higher than water. They resist
saponification and (excepting oil of cloves)
do not combine with the salifiable bases.
Their density fluctuates a little on either side
of water. The lightest oil is that of citrons
(specific gravity 0.847), and the heaviest, that
of sassafras (specific gravity 1.096). When
cooled sufficiently they all soldify. The com-
mon temperature of the atmosphere is suffi-
cient for this with some of them, as the oils oi
roses and aniseed ; whilst others require to be
cooled below the freezing point of water be-
fore they assume the solid form. By exposure
to the air they rapidly absorb oxygen, and
become partially converted into resin. This
is the cause of the deposit that usually forms
in them (especially in the expressed oil oi
orange) when kept in an imperfectly stopped
bottle. (Coolcy.)
1465. To Obtain Essential Oils. All
essential oils which are more or less volatile
can be obtained from substances by distilling
the articles along with an equal weight (some
use a larger proportion) of water; but some
substances that give out their oil with diffi-
culty, are first soaked for 24 hours in twice
their weight of water, to each gallon of which
1 pound of common salt has been added, by
which its boiling point is raised, and conse-
quently the oil comes over more easily. In
such cases a quick fire is used, and when one
half the water has come over, it is returned
into the still, and this is repeated until the
distilled water ceases to come over mixed
with oil. The heat of steam or a salt water
bath should be preferably employed ; but if a
naked fire be used, the still should be deep
and narrow, by which means the bottom will
be more perfectly covered when the quantity
of water becomes small, and burning prevent-
ed. When the distilled water is to be repeat-
edly poured back on the ingredients, a very
convenient plan is to so arrange the apparatus
that, after the water has separated from the
Fig. 1.
oil, it shall flow back again into the still, by
which much time and trouble will be saved.
The separation of the oil and water is effect-
ed by allowing the mixed liquids to drop into
a Florentine receiver (see Fig. 1), when the
oil is lighter than water, by which means the
latter accumulates at a, and the water flows
over by the spout, &. The essential oil is ob-
tained in this manner from the following:
Anise, caraway, wormseed, cubebs, fennel,
pennyroyal, juniper, lavender, lemon, cinna-
mon, peppermint, spearmint, horsemint, ori-
ganum, pimento, rosemary, savine, sassafras,
valerian, <fec. The empyreumatic oil of to-
bacco is obtained by introducing the dry
leaves in coarse powder into a green glass re-
tort, heating it in a sand-bath to a dull red
heat. Separate the oily liquid from the wa-
tery portion as it comes over, and keep for
use. (See No. 46.) The same receiver may
be employed for oils heavier than water, by
reversing the arrangement ; but a glass sepa-
rator (see Fig. 2) will be found more con-
Fig. 2.
venient. In this case the oil accumulates at
the bottom of the vessel, and may be drawn
off by the cock. The oil of cloves and other
heavy essential oils are obtained by macera-
ting 5 pounds coarsely powdered material for
48 hours in 10 pounds water containing 1
pound salt ; and distilling until the product is
no longer milky. After the oil has deposited,
the remaining water is again distilled, and
this repeated until all the oil has been extract-
ed from the water. After 10 days, the oil
is cleaned and clarified by filtering. The es-
sential oil of cloves, cinnamon, rhodium-wood,
sandal, calamus, aloes, <fcc., are thus obtained.
That of bitter almonds and of mustard are ob-
tained by making a thin paste of the material
with water ; and, after 24 hours' maceration,
distilling by steam-bath. The essential oils
of lemons, oranges, and some other fruits,
are chiefly obtained by submitting the yellow
rind to powerful pressure; but iu this way
they are not so white, nor do they keep so
well as when distilled. Volatile oils should
be kept in well-closed and nearly full bottles,
in the dark, and opened as seldom as possible,
as by age and frequent exposure they become
resinous. The process of distillation should
be done as rapidly as possible, and the light
oils collected soon after its separation from
the water.
1466. Special Directions for Distill-
ing Essential Oils. Substances yielding
volatile oils are generally distilled with water,
the proportion of which varies with each.
15O
ESSENTIAL OILS.
article, but under all circumstances niust be
sufficient to prevent the substance from burn-
ing before the whole of the oil has passed
over. To prevent the risk of burning, it has
been recommended to suspend the substance
to bo distilled in a basket, or a bag of wire-
work, in the water, so as not to touch the bot-
tom or sides of the alembic ; or to place the
substance on a perforated shelf in the upper
j part of the alembic above the surface of the
water. Some substances, such as mustard,
bitter almonds, &c., which are mixed to a
paste with water, are distilled by the action
of a current of steam heated to the necessary
degree and admitted into the bottom of the
alembic. An excess above what is necessary
acts injuriously by holding some of the oil in
solution after the mixed vapors are condensed ;
on the other hand, if too small a quantity be
employed, besides the danger of burning, the
whole of the oil will not be distilled. Dried
plants require more water than the fresh and
succulent.
The form of the alembic has an influence
over the quantity of water distilled, which de-
pends more upon the extent of surface than
the amount of liquid ; by employing a high
and uaiTow vessel the disadvantage of an ex-
cess of water is much obviated.
The temperature should bo equable, and'
regulated so as not to exceed the required de-
gree of heat; and, as some oils are more
volatile than others, an appropriate tempera-
ture must be obtained and sustained ; the use
of a higher temperature than is necessary be-
ing injurious. Any degree of heat can be
steadily applied by the use of a bath, either of
water or of some solution (weaker or stronger
as required) of which the boiling point is
known. (Sec No. 7.)
The more volatile oils pass freely with the
steam into the neck of the receiver, but some
that are less volatile are apt to condense in
the head, and return into the body of the
still ; for ' these a still should be employed
with a large and low head, having a rim or
gutter inside, in which the oil maybe received
as it condenses, and thence led into the neck
of the condensing tube (sec No. 1077), which
is better straight than coiled, for convenience
in cleaning, as the alembic and all its appur-
tenances must be perfectly clean before distill-
ing each kind of essential oil.
Certain flowers, such as orange flowers and
roses, yield little or no oil when dry, and
must be preserved fresh, either with salt, or
by means of glycerine, to keep them in condi-
tion for distilling their oils. (See No. 1349.)
The most of the aromatic herbs are usually
distilled while fresh, although it is thought by
some that they yield a larger product when
moderately dried. Dried substances require,
previous to distillation, to be thoroughly
macerated with water ; and to facilitate this
end, should be prepared by slicing, rasping,
bruising, or other appropriate means. Some-
times the proportion of oil in the substance
employed is so small that it is wholly dis-
solved in the water distilled, even though the
smallest necessary quantity of water has
been employed in the alembic. In this case
the distilled solution must be redistilled
several times with fresh quantities of the
substance, until more oil passes over than the
water will dissolve. This process is called
I cohobation.
1467. Millon's Method of Obtaining
Essential Oils. The flowers are placed in
a percolating apparatus (see No. 41) and then
ether oi> sulphide of carbon is poured over
them. After leaving the flowers in contact
for 15 minutes the liquid is drawn off' and
a fresh supply added and drawn off' in a
similar manner. This completely dissolves
all the essential oil of the flowers, leaving
them quite scentless. The liquid is next dis-
tilled, and the ether or sulphide of carbon, be-
ing volatile at a much lower temperature than
the fragrant principle, is drawn over alone,
and leaves a residue containing all the per-
fume of the flower. This residue, more or
less solid, is exposed to the heat of the sun
until it loses the unpleasant smell of the
solvent used. No degree of natural heat is
capable of altering the perfume or turning it
rancid. The product has a much finer odor
than essential oil prepared by any other
system.
1468. Cognac Oil. Oil of cognac is
prepared by dissolving the fusel oil of brandy
marc in strong rectified spirit, and then adding
a sufficient quantity of concentrated sulphuric
acid to form a sulphate ; alcohol and excess
of acid are removed by washing the newly
formed compound with water. To 100 pounds
marc add \ pound sulphuric acid ; the oil is
generally formed towards the end of the dis-
tillation, and is found floating in blackish drops
on the surface of the distillate. According
to a distinguished French chemist, this oil is
a compound of potato oil and oenanthic ether.
1469. Oil of Apple. Mix cautiously 1
part fusel oil, 3 parts sulphuric acid, and 2
parts water. Dissolve 2£ parts bichromate of
potash in 4| parts water, introduce this- into
a large tubulated retort, and gradually add the
former liquid, so that the boiling continues very
slowly. The distillate, which is principally
valerianic acid, is saturated with carbonate of
soda, and evaporated to dryness. Take of
the valerianate of soda, thus formed, 1£ parts ;
fusel oil, 1 part ; sulphuric acid, 1 part ; mix
cautiously, heat by a water-bath, and mix
with water; the impure valeriauate of amy-
loxide will separate. It is washed several
times with water, then with a solution of car-
bonate of soda, and finally with water. This
is dissolved in from G to 8 parts of water.
1470. Oil of Jargonelle Pear. This is
made from the heavy fusel oil which comes
over last in distillation. To purify the fusel
oil, wash it with soda and water, and distill
between 254° and 284° Fahr. Of this take 1
pound; glacial acetic acid, 1 pound; sulphuric
acid, i pound. Digest for sonic hours at 254°.
The ether separates upon the addition of wa-
ter, and is purified by washing with soda and
water. Mixed with Vff part acetic ether, and
7 parts of deodorized alcohol, it gives the es-
sence of pears.
1471. Oil of duince — Pelargonic
Ether — is made from oil of rue by treating
it with double its volume of dilute nitric acid,
heating the mixture until it begins to boil.
After some time two layers are seen. The
lower one is separated with a pipette, and
freed from nitric acid by evaporation in a
chloride of zinc bath; it is then filtered,
ESSENTIAL OILS.
151
mixed with deodorized alcohol, and digested
at a gentle hfeat until the fruity odor is noticed.
This ether seems identical with the ethereal
oil of wine, which gives the bouquet. It is
sometimes sold as oil of cognac.
1472. To Restore tlie Fragrance of
Oil of Lemon. There are several oils that,
by absorption of oxygen from the air, will be-
come camphorated, grow turbid, deposit a
residue, generally called stearopten, and lose
more or less of their flavor, instead of which
they acquire the odor of turpentine. Those
oils that are free from oxygen are chiefly sub-
ject to these changes, and it -is therefore
necessary to keep them in full bottles, well
stoppered, and in a cool place. "When they have
deteriorated in the way indicated, they may be
improved, but can never be restored to their
original quality. Many means have been
proposed for this purpose, but the one now
generally employed in France is to shake the
oil with warm water several times, letting it
settle, and drawing it off by means of a
syphon; it may lastly be filtered either through
paper or linen.
1473. To Keep Oil of Lemon Fra-
grant. To every pound of oil, 1 ounce alco-
hol is to be added and well mixed ; then 1
ounce water is put with it, which again with-
draws the alcohol from the oil, and collects
at the bottom of the bottle as dilute alcohol,
where it should be permitted to remain until
the oil has been used, with, perhaps, an occa-
sional shake-up when the bottle has been
opened. Oil of lemon treated in this manner
has been kept fresh and fragrant for over a
year. Oil of orange may be treated in the
same manner with excellent effect.
1474. To Purify Essential Oils that
have Deteriorated from Age. The method
most commonly pursued is by redistillation,
mixing them first with water, and sometimes
with alkali. There are, however, other pro-
cesses that have been recommended, which
are believed to be equally as efficacious, and
at the same time more simple. M. Curieux
proposes to submit them to the action of a
solution of borax with animal black. The
solution of borax is mixed with the animal
charcoal to form a thin consistency ; the oil
is then added and agitated for a quarter of an
hour. At the end of that time the borax
mixture is found adhering to the sides of the
bottle, while the oil flows limpid. The oil of
lavender, neroli, and peppermint, M. Curieux
had restored or purified in this manner. Mr.
Charles Bullock, of Philadelphia, has found
that permanganate of potash is admirably
adapted to the purpose of the restoration of
resinified essential oils. A large can of oil of
lemon having become unsaleable, he agitated
a solution of the potash with the oil for a
length of time, then decanted, mixed with
fresh water, and warmed gently, till the oil
floated perfectly clear on the surface. The
solution of the permanganate was in the pro-
portion of 1 ounce of the salt to 8 ounces of
water. This quantity was enough for 4 pounds
of the oil.
1475. To Detect the Presence of
Fatty Oil and Resins in Essential Oils.
The presence of fatty oil, resin, or spermaceti,
may be readily detected by placing a single
drop of the suspected oil on a piece of white
paper, and exposing it for a short time to
heat. If the oil under examination be pure,
it will entirely evaporate ; but if it be adul-
terated with one of these substances, a greasy
or translucent spot will be left on the paper.
These substances also remain undissolved
when the oil is agitated with three or four
times its volume of strong rectified spirit.
1476. To Detect the Presence of Al-
cohol in Essential Oils. The presence of
alcohol or rectified spirit may be detected by
agitation with the oil a few small fragments
of dried chloride of calcium. These will re-
main unaltered if the oil be pure, but will
dissolve in one containing alcohol, and the re-
sulting solution will form a distinct stratum
at the bottom of the vessel. The milkiness
and loss of volume, when such an oil is agi-
tated with a little water, is another test of the
presence of spirit. A more delicate test of
the presence of alcohol in an essential oil
than the preceding, is effected by potassium.
Place 12 drops of the oil on a perfectly dry
watch-glass, and put a piece of potassium,
the size of an ordinary pin's head, in the mid-
dle of it. If the potassium remains unchanged
for 12 or 15 minutes, no alcohol is present;
bnt if it disappears after 5 minutes, the oil
contains at least 4 per cent, of alcohol ; if it
disappears in less than 1 minute, it proves the
presence of not less than 25 per cent, of alco-
hol. This species of adulteration is very com-
mon. It is a very general practice of the
druggists to add strong rectified spirit to
their essential oils, to render them transparent,
especially in cold weather. Oil of cassia and
oil of cinnamon are nearly always so treated
by them.
1477. To Detect the Admixture of
one Essential Oil with Another. The
admixture of an inferior essential oil with an-
other more costly, is readily detected by a
connoisseur or expert, by placing a drop or
two on a piece of clean blotting-paper, shak-
ing it in the air, and smelling it occasionally.
The difference of the odor at the beginning
and towards the end of the evaporation will
show the adulteration, especially if the adul-
terant be oil of turpentine. This last may also
be detected by remaining undissolved when
the oil is agitated with about thrice its volume
of strong rectified spirit. Highly rectified oil
of turpentine is very largely used to adulter-
ate the stronger scented essential oils. For-
eign oil of lavender and oil of peppermint, for
example, are usually compounds of 1 ounce
of the genuine oil with 9 ounces of oil of
turpentine. Even American and English oil
of peppermint are adulterated with J part rec-
tified spirit, besides a considerable quantity of
oil of spearmint, and often turpentine.
1478. To Detect the Adulteration
of a Heavy Oil with a Light One. The
adulteration of a heavy oil with a light one
may be detected by agitating the suppected
sample with water, when, in general, the two
will separate and form distinct layers.
1479. To Test the Purity of Essen-
tial Oil of Almonds. Essential oil of
almonds is very generally adulterated with
cheaper oils, particularly nitrobenzole (arti-
ficial oil of bitter almonds), and in nearly
every case with alcohol or rectified spirit.
The pure oil, when mixed with oil of vitriol,
FIXED OILS AND FATS.
turns of a clear crimson-red color, without
visible decomposition: — mixed with alcoholic
solution of poiassa, crystals are eliminated : —
iodine dissolves only partially and slowly in
it, without further visible results: — cliromate
of potassa does not affect it: — nitric acid of
the specific gravity 1.42 causes no immediate
reaction, but crystals of benzoic acid begin to
form in 3 or 4 days ; if only 7 or 8 per cent.
of alcohol be present, violent effervescence
speedily commences, and colored nitrous
fumes are evolved. Nitric acid of specific
gravity 1.5 produces the same effects in a
marked degree, even when the smallest quan-
tity only of alcohol is present. The specific
gravity of the pure oil, when recent, is
never less than 1.052; and when old, never
greater than 1.081 ; that of trade averages
about 1.075. Nitrobenzole has the specific
gravity 1.209, and its boiling point is 415°
Fahr., or fully 100° higher than that of es-
sential oil of almonds.
1480. To Test the Purity of Oil of
Bergamot. Oil of bergamot is very fre-
quently adulterated with rectified spirit, or
with the oil of lemon, orange peel, and tur-
pentine. These may be detected in the way
previously noticed. (See JVo. 1476, <fc.) The
Eresence of the foreign oils, particularly the
ist, lessens its solubility in rectified spirit.
The pure oil is freely soluble in liquor of
potassa, forming a clear solution. Its specific
gravity is .875 to .885.
148*1. To Test the Purity of Oil of
Cinnamon. The common adulterants are
highly rectified spirit and oil of cassia. When
pure, its specific gravity is 1.035. Oil of
cassia, of which the specific gravity is 1.071
to 1.073, and when old, even 1.078 to 1.090,
increases it; but before trying it, it must be
tested for spirit, which has a contrary effect.
1482. To Test the Purity of Oil of
Lavender. Alcohol is here also the common
adulterant. The finest quality — that from the
flowers, has specific gravity .877 to .905. The
lightest is esteemed the best. Santaline is
insoluble, or very nearly so, in the pure oil,
but is freely soluble in that adulterated with
alcohol. The presence of oil of turpentine,
and other inferior oils, may be detected by
the blotting-paper test, noticed above. (See
No. 1475.
1483. To Test the Purity of Oil of
Neroli. This is the oil of orange flowers,
and is commonly adulterated with alcohol, or
with the oil of orange leaf (essence de petit-
grain), and generally with both. The presence
of the first is easily determined (see No. 1476) ;
that of the second only by comparing the odor
of a drop of the suspected oil, placed on a
piece of paper, with a drop of pure neroli
(similarly treated.
1484. To Test the Purity of Otto of
Hoses. Cooley says : " The common adult-
erants are the oils of rhodium, sandal wood,
and geranium, with camphor, and occasionally
with spermaceti, to give the spurious article
the usual crystalline appearance. Pure
otto has a bland, sweet taste ; if it be bitter,
it contains oil of rhodium or sandal wood ; if
it be pungent or bite the palate, it contains
either oil of geranium or camphor, and most
probably both; if it imparts an unctuous
sensation to the palate, or if it leaves a greasy
stain on paper, it contains spermaceti. A single
drop of pure otto of roses exposed for some
hours under a bell-glass, in the cold, to the va-
por of a few grains of iodine, remains white,
and continues so on subsequent exposure to
the air. A sample adulterated with foreign
oil, on the contrary, becomes yellow or yellow-
ish-brown, and continues subsequently to dark-
en, until it becomes of a deep brown color, or
even perfectly black, according to the extent
of the adulteration. A single drop of pure
otto placed on a watch glass with one drop
of concentrated sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol),
and stirred with a glass rod, retains the purity
of its color and odor ; but a sample adulterated
with other oil becomes more or less brown,
and evolves peculiar odors — that from oil of
geranium being strong and disagreeable ; that
from oil of rhodium being increased and ren-
dered unctuous and cubeb-like; that from
camphor, characteristic and combined with
acidity ; that from spermaceti, unctuous and
clearly perceptible." Dr. R. Baur, of Constan-
tinople, has had the opportunity of preparing
a standard otto of rose on the spot, and was
also in a position such as scarcely any other
chemist ever was for investigating the whole
subject. He says that pure otto gives, with
iodine and with iodide of potassium and
starch, the same reactions as when it is mixed
with geranium oil, and even those with pure
geranium oil are hardly different. He further
says that many attempts have been made to
discover some chemical reaction which would
reveal the falsification of otto with geranium
oil, but hitherto mostly in vain.
1485. To Test the Purity of Oil of
Cloves. Oil of cloves is frequently adulter-
ated with inferior essential oils, but when
pure it exhibits the following results : When
shaken with pure liquor of ammonia, it coag-
ulates, and crystallizes after fusion by a gentle
heat: Treated with an alcoholic solution of
potassa, it congeals into a crystalline mass,
with total loss of its odor: A solution of
cliromate of potassa converts it into brown
flakes, whilst the salt loses its yellow color.
1486. To Test the Purity of Oil of
Rue. This oil is nearly always adulterated.
When pure, it forms a clear solution with
rectified spirit ; Iodine dissolves in it slowly,
without apparent reaction beyond a darkening
and a slight increase in viscidity : It is un-
affected by a solution of chr ornate of potassa ;
Nitric acid very slowly changes it into a
greenish yellow liquid balsam.
Fixed Oils and Fats. These
are compounds of carbon, hydrogen,
and oxygen (hydrocarbons), obtained from
the organic kingdom, and chiefly distinguished
by their insipidity, unctuosity, insolubility in
water, and being' lighter than that fluid.
Olive oil, obtained from the vegetable, and
spermaceti oil, from the animal kingdom, may
be taken as types of the rest. The fixed oils
are chiefly found in the fruit and seeds of
plants, and in thin membranous cells in
various parts of the bodies of animals. Some
of these oils are solid at ordinary temperatures;
as palm oil, cocoanut oil, &c. ; but the majori-
FIXED OILS AND FATS.
153
ty are fluid, except when considerably cooled,
when they separate into two portions: the
one solid, consisting mostly of stearine, and
the other liquid, consisting chiefly of oleine.
Nearly all the fixed oils, when freely exposed
to the air, absorb oxygen, and either gradually
harden, or become rancid. The former are
termed drying oils, and are used by painters ;
the latter are used in cookery, for machinery,
lamps, <fec. The fixed oils, except where
otherwise directed, are obtained from the
bruised or ground fruit or seed, by means of
powerful pressure, in screw or hydraulic
presses, and are either allowed to clarify them-
selves by subsidence, or are filtered. Another
method is by boiling the bruised seed in wa-
ter, and skimming off the oil as it rises to the
surface. This is the plan adopted for castor
011 in the West Indies. The specific gravities
of the fixed oils range between 0.865 and
0.970. (Cooley.)
1488. Davidson's Process of Deodor-
izing1 Putrid Whale Oil. This cheap
method of purification consists in the employ-
ment of chloride of lime, the quantity depend-
ing ou the degree of putrefaction of the whale
oil. In general 1 pound is sufficient for 112
pounds oil ; but if it is in a state of great
putrefaction, there may be 1£ or 2 pounds re-
quired. With 1 pound chloride of lime about
12 times the quantity of water must be em-
ployed. The chloride is bruised in a mortar,
and the water added by degrees till it forms a
soft and liquid paste, and afterwards by the
addition of the remainder of the water it takes
the consistency of cream. This is to be mixed
with the oil and often cajef ally stirred. After
some hours 1 pound sulphuric acid, diluted
with 20 or 30 times its bulk of water, is poured
on the mixture, and the whole brought to a
boil over a moderate fire, and stirred con-
tinually until drops of oil run off at the end
of the stirring pole. It is then left for some
hours for the oil to precipitate, and the acidu-
lated water is drawn off. A common cast-iron
boiler, with sheets of lead at the bottom, is the
best for the purpose, or a copper or iron vessel
may be used when the quantity of acid is not
too great. The chloride of lime must not be
bruised in a copper or iron mortar. «
1489. To Restore Rancid Oil and
Fat. Rancid oil and fat may be recovered by
agitating them, at a gentle heat, with fresh-
burnt and coarsely-powdered charcoal (which
has been thoroughly freed from dust by sift-
ing and fanning), followed by filtration
through flannel; or by simple filtration
through charcoal in bags of Canton flannel,
according to the common method.
1490. To Restore Rancid Fat or Oil.
Another method is to thoroughly wash them
with hot water, frequently renewed, or to
blow steam through them, until the desired
effect be produced. Air freely employed for
some .time, instead of steam, succeeds ad-
mirably with many oils, and its use has the
advantage of not introducing moisture into
the article. Another method is to boil oil or
fat, for 15 to 30 minutes, with a little water
and calcined magnesia.
1491. To Prevent Oils and Fats from
Becoming Rancid. The tendency of oils
and fats to become rancid may bo prevented,
or greatly retarded, by artificial means. One
of the simplest methods is to dissolve about
2 percent, of gum-benzoin (in fine powder),
or about one per cent, benzoic acid, in the
oil or fat, by the aid of a gentle heat. This
addition renders oils, pomades, ointments, <fec.,
peculiarly soothing to an irritable or highly
sensitive skin. It should be done before the
addition of the scents. "When the prepara-
tions are intended for exportation to hot cli-
mates, the percentage of the gum or acid
should be somewhat increased. This is the
plan generally adopted by the manufacturing
perfumers and druggists. In the wholesale
trade, carefully rendered lard, suet, &c. ; sim-
ple pomades and oils, so prepared, are now
common articles of stock and sale.
1492. An Excellent Preventive of
Rancidity in Oils, &c. Nitric ether, or its
alcoholic solution (sweet spirits of nitre), is
highly recommended as a most effective pre-
ventive of rancidity. It is- said that a few
drops of the ether will effect this object, and
will even remove the disagreeable odor of
rancidity when present. Oil so treated, after
being heated to remove the alcohol, when the
solution has been used, is quite bright, clear,
and scentless, if it were originally so. Pop-
lar-buds, crushed and digested at a gentle
heat, in oil or fat, will also remove, or greatly
retard, its tendency to become rancid. Fatty
bodies in a globular state may be kept a long
time without becoming rancid. This pecu-
liar state can be imparted to fatty matters by
melting them at 130° Fahr. and adding a
small quantity of yolk of egg, or bile, or al-
buminous substances, or best, a solution of
alkali (composed of 5 to 10 parts for every
100 of oil), at the same temperature. The
whole is then agitated for some time to bring
the fatty matter into a globular condition.
1493. To PreventFats and Oils from
Becoming Rancid. Heat the oil or melted
fat for a few minutes with powdered slippery-
elm bark, in the proportion of 1 drachm of
the powder to one pound of fat. The bark
shrinks and gradually subsides, after which
the fat is poured off. It communicates an
odor like that of the hickory-nut. Butter
thus treated has been kept unchanged for a
year.
1494. To Purify Vegetable Oil for
Use in Lamps. To 100 pounds oil add 25
ounces alum, dissolved in 9 pounds of boiling
water. After stirring it about half an hour,
add 15 ounces nitric acid, still continuing to
stir it. Let it stand 48 hours, when the fine
oil will swim on the surface, and then draw it
off. Such oil is used all over Continental
Europe, and an equal quantity yields double
the light of whale and fish-oil, without its
offensive odor
1 49 5 . Bancroft's Process for Refining
Lubricating Oils. Mr. Bancroft's process
for refining common olive oil, lard oil, &c.,
for lubricating purposes, is to agitate them
with from 3 5 to 8 per cent, caustic soda lye,
of 1.2 specific gravity. If, on trial of a small
quantity, the lye be found to settle clear at
the bottom, enough has been added. The
oil is allowed to rest for 24 hours, for the
soapy matter to subside ; the supernatant oil
is then filtered. (See JNro. 1551.) Another
plan of purifying oils is to agitate them with
a strong solution of common salt.
154r
FIXED OILS AND FATS.
1496. Calvert's Tests for the Purity
of Oils. In the use of the following tests,
the result of a series of experiments by Mr.
F. G. Calvert, he recommends especial care
in the preparation of the reagents used for
testing, not only as regards their exact
strength and purity, but also in following
strictly the prescribed method of using them,
carefully noting the time required for their
action and effects to become apparent.
1497. Calvert's Caustic Soda Test
for Oils. A solution of caustic soda, specific
gravity 1.340, is useful to distinguish fish
from other animal and vegetable oils, owing
to the distinct red color which the fish OH
assumes ; the presence of 1 per cent, of fish oil
will be detected by the test. Add one vol-
ume of the test to 5 volumes of the oil, well
mixed, and heated to the boiling point.
Hempseed oil acquires a brown-j'ellow color,
and becomes so thick as to entirely lose its
fluidity. Linseed oil assumes a much bright-
er yellow color, and remains fluid. India
nut oil, gallipoli oil, and pale rape oils, be-
come a solid white mass in 5 minutes, while
the other oils remain fluid.
1498. Calvert's Sulphuric Acid Tests
for Oils. I. Sulphuric acid of specific grav-
ity 1.475 will detect oils adulterated with
hempseed and Unseed oils to the amount of
10 per cent. Fish oil may be detected to the
amount of 1 per cent, by the red color it as-
sumes, this being noticed more particularly
when the fish oil is allowed to separate by
standing. To apply the test agitate 1 vol-
ume with 5 volumes of the oil, and allow the
mixture to stand for fifteen minutes.
II. For the detection of hemp, linseed,
fish, gallipoli, and French nut oils, 1 volume
of sulphuric acid of specific gravity 1.530,
agitated with 5 volumes of oil, and the mix-
ture allowed to stand for 5 minutes. Under
this test the above mentioned oils alone as-
sume a decided coloration.
III. Sulphuric acid of specific gravity
1.635, used similar to the preceding, and the
effects noted after standing 2 minutes, affords
a test under which the colorations are dis-
tinct and well marked, and will detect 10 per
cent, of rapeseed oil in olive oil, of lard oil in
poppy oil, of French nut oil in olive oil, and
of fish oil in neat' s foot oil.
A stronger acid than this carbonizes the oils
and destroys the coloration.
1499. Calvert's Nitric Acid Tests for
Oils. The successive application of nitric
acid of specific gravity 1.330, and of a solu-
tion of caustic soda of specific gravity 1.340,
can be successfully applied to detect the fol-
lowing very frequent cases of adulteration :
I. Gallipoli oil with fish oils ; the former
assumes no distinct color with the acid, and
gives with soda a mass of fibrous consistency,
while fish oils are colored red, and become
^mucilaginous with the alkali.
II. Castor oil with poppy oil ; the former,
if adulterated, acquires a reddish tinge, and
the mass with the alkali loses much of its
fibrous appearance.
III. Jiapcsccd oil with French nut oil;
under the nitric acid test the former, if adul-
terated, assumes a reddish tinge, more or less
intense, which alkali increases, and renders
the semi-saponified mass more fibrous.
1500. To Test the Purity of Olive
Oil. Cooley says: When pure olive oil is
shaken in a phial only half filled, the bead
or bubbles formed very rapidly disappear,
but with the adulterated oil they remain
much longer before they burst. If olive
oil contains i part of poppy oil, part of
it remains liquid at 36° Fahr., its prop-
er freezing temperature; and if it con-
tains £ of poppy oil, it does not solidify at
all, unless cooled much below the freezing
point of water. Pure olive oil well agitated for
some time with ^ of its volume of nitnc solu-
tion of mercury, becomes quite solid in 3 or
4 hours, without any separation of liquid oil.
(The mercurial solution is made by dissolving
1 ounce mercury in 2 fluid ounces 1£ drachms
nitric acid specific gravity 1.500.) According
to M. Boudet, 1 grain of hyponitrous acid
(hyponitric?) mixed with 3 grains of nitric
acid, will cause the perfect solidification of
200 grains of pure olive oil in 75 to 78 min-
utes.
1501. To Test the Purity of Castor
OIL Castor oil is frequently adulterated
with rape oil; but this maybe detected by
its not dissolving in strong alcohol, and also
by its less density. Pure castor oil is soluble
in an equal weight of alcohol specific gravity
0.820.
1502. To Refine Olive Oil. Olive oil
intended for huiles antiques (see No. 1244)
and other like uses, is commonly refined by
violently agitating it in glass or stoneware,
with about 1 i to 2 per cent, of its weight of
concentrated sulphuric acid. This renders it
opaque, and causes if to assume a greenish
color. After about 2 weeks' repose, it depos-
its much coloring matter, and is then found
to have acquired greater fluidity, to have be-
come much paler, to be more emollient and
glossy as a lubricator, and to burn with great-
er brilliancy. The clear portion is now de-
canted, well washed with steam or hot water,
and, after sufficient repose in a close vessel,
at a temperature about 60° Fahr., again de-
canted, and, if necessary, filtered through
Canton flannel or bibulous paper. This plan
is also applied to other fixed oils, and an-
swers well for most of the recently express-
ed vegetable oils.
1503. To Purify and Sweeten Castor
Oil. The American Journal of Pharmacy
gives the following receipt for this purpose :
Take 1000 parts of the oil, 25 parts purified
bone-black, 10 parts calcined magnesia. Mix
them carefully in a convenient vessel of glass
or tinned iron, and let it stand during 3 days,
with occasional agitation, and filter through
paper or felt. (Sec No. lf.04).
1504. To Bleach the Vegetable Oils.
According to Cooley, almond, ben, castor,
colza, linseed, nut, olive, poppy, rape, teel,
and other like vegetable oils, are readily
bleached by exposure, in glass bottles, to the
light. For this purpose, 2-quart to 4-quart
pale green glass or blue glass bottles filled
with the oil, and covered with white gallipots
inverted over them, are suitably placed, a
small distance apart, on the roofs of houses
or sheds, or in any other suitable position,
fully exposed to the sun during the greater
portion of the day, or at all events to the
south-east and south. 14 to 21 days' exposure
FIXED OILS AND FATS.
155
to the sun, in clear weather, during summer,
is usually sufficient to decolor castor oil and
almond oil ; but 4, 5, or even 6 weeks, is com-
monly required to render linseed oil very pale.
This is the common plan adopted by the
wholesale druggists to whiten their castor oil,
by some of the perfumers for their almond oil
and olive oil, and by the oilmen for their pale
linseed oil for artists. A better plan, however,
when this method is adopted, is to cork the
bottles loosely air-tight, but not firmly down,
when the sun has been on them two or three
hours, and whilst they are still heated with it.
In this way the oil suffers less from the ex-
posure than by the loose gallipot system in
common use. Almond, olive, and the other
sweet oils, thus treated, are apt to lose some
of their blandness, and to acquire a slight
sulphurous smell, and smoky flavor, whilst
castor oil loses its original blandness, and as-
sumes the strong, nauseous flavor characteris-
tic of the white castor oil of the stores. These
qualities may be removed by agitation with a
little fresh animal charcoal, dry freshly pre-
pared alumina, or calcined magnesia, and sub-
sequent filtration; or, what is even better,
though more troublesome, by well washing
the oil with hot water, and subsequent repose
out of contact with the air, and subsequent
decautation. (See No. 1503.)
1505. To Bleach Vegetable Oils.
Another method pursued for bleaching oils is
as follows : The oil is placed in a porcelain,
stoneware, or well-tinned vessel, along with
some dry filtering powder, 1 to 2 pounds to
each gallon of the oil, or some dry and re-
cently prepared hydrated alumina (k to -J
pound per gallon of oil ; but much less is
often sufficient if the article be of proper
quality) ; and the heat of steam or boiling
water being applied, is vigorously stirred,
wifli a clean wooden or stoneware spatula,
for about an hour. It is then thrown into a
Canton flannel oil-bag, and filtered, in the
usual manner, observing to return the run-
nings until they become quite white and clear.
This is the way perfumers and wholesale
druggists usually prepare their white almond
oil, white olive oil, and white oil of 6en. For-
merly fresh burnt animal charcoal was chiefly
used for the purpose, and is still so employed
by some houses ; but the other substances
answer better and are more convenient.
( Cooley. )
1 506. To Bleach Vegetable Oils. The
oils referred to in iM o. 1504, as well as all other
oils and fats, may be rendered perfectly color-
less by agitating them with a little chromic
acid; or, what is cheaper and more convenient,
with a mixed solution of bichromate of po-
tassa and sufficient sulphuric acid to seize on
the alkali of the bichromate and to liberate
its chromic acid. 1 to 2 drachms of the bi-
chromate, mixed with 3 times its weight of oil
of vitriol (previously diluted with about twice
its volume of water, and allowed to cool), is
ordinarily sufficient, when skillfully used, to
Eerfectly bleach 2 or 3 pints of oil. It should
e added gradually to the oil, with continued
violent agitation, and this should be kept up
for some considerable time after the last por-
tion is added. The mixture must be made in
a vessel of glass, porcelain, stoneware, or
wood, and nothing metallic must touch it.
In some cases a few drops of strong nitric
acid (diluted with about twice its bulk of
water), if added towards the end of the agi-
tation, will facilitate the process; or, with
colza, linseed, nut, and rape oil, instead of
the diluted nitric acid, a few drops of hydro-
chloric acid without dilution. After the final
agitation, the oil must be allowed to repose at
a temperature of about 60° Fahr. "When it
has settled, the clear portion should be de-
canted, thoroughly washed with hot water,
again allowed to repose for some time, and
then finally decanted for use. If necessary,
it may lastly be filtered. (Cooley.)
1507. Berlandt's Method of Bleach-
ing Fixed Oils. Shake strongly for some
minutes, 300 parts of the oil with 40 parts
water containing 1 part permanganate of
potassa; allow the mixture to stand in a warm
place for some hours, and then filter. This
renders the oil colorless.
1508. Dieterich's Method of Bleach-
ing Fixed Oils. Dissolve 2^ pounds (avoir-
dupois) permanganate of potassa in 31 i quarts
water, in a wooden tub haying a faucet in
its bottom. Stir into the mixture 52£ quarts
of the oil to be bleached, and keep all well
stirred for 2 days. Then add 21 quarts boil-
ing water and 11 pounds commercial hydro-
chloric acid, and keep the whole stirred for 2
days longer. Draw off the acid water, and
wash the oil repeatedly with boiling water
until all acid is removed from it.
1 509. Engelhardt's Method of Bleach-
ing Palm Ou. Heat 1000 parts by weight
palm oil in an iron vessel to about 143° Fahr.,
and let it stand all night, sustaining the tem-
perature. Next day pour it off into a clean
vessel and let it cool down to about 100°.
Meanwhile, dissolve 15 parts bichromate of
potash in 45 parts boiling water ; when the
solution has cooled a little, pour into it 60
parts hydrochloric acid. Add this mixture to
the palm oil, stirring quickly, and in about 5
minutes it will assume a sombre green color;
by continued stirring the oil gradually clari-
fies and becomes quite limpid. It should
become quite white after washing it with
warm water; but if not entirely colorless, the
operation must be repeated, using £ part
bichromate of potash, and 1 part hydrochloric
acid. This is a quick method, and Eugelhardt
claims that it produces better results than the
means usually employed. (See No. 537.)
1510. To Bleach Cotton Seed Oil.
Use 1 gallon English caustic soda, in a solu-
tion of about 40° Baume, to about 20 gallons
crude oil. The oil, previous to being mixed
with the solution, must be heated to about
90° Fahr. Stir constantly while adding the
cold solution. If the oil is not now sufficiently
light, add more of the solution to bring it to
a light yellow or straw color.
1511. Keyer's Process for Purifying
Oils. The process of M. Keyer, which is
applicable to all oils, has given excellent re-
sults in a manufactory of rape seed oil. Into
1000 parts by weight of oil, put a mixture of
G parts solution of ammonia and 6 parts wa-
ter, and agitate the barrel well until the alkali
is perfectly mixed, which may be done in 15
minutes. The barrel is then sealed hermeti-
cally, and, after 3 clays' repose, the oil is
decanted and filtered. The residue is used
156
FIXED OILS AND FATS.
for the manufacture of soap. Oil thus worked
contains no trace of acid, and the mucilag-
inous impurities are destroyed or precipitated.
1512. Liebig's Method of Obtaining
Non-poisonous Oil of Almonds. Agitate
the crude distilled oil with binoxide of mer-
cury in slight excess ; and, after a few days'
contact, rectify the oil from a little fresh bin-
oxide of mercury. The product is quite pure,
if properly managed, as the hydrocyanic acid
(the poisonous principle) of the oil, unites
with the binoxide to form a bicyanide of
mercury.
1513. Neat's-foot or Trotter Oil.
Obtained by boiling neat's-foot, tripe, etc.,
in water. It is a coarse animal oil, very
emollient, and much used to soften leather.
1514. To Refine Neat's-foot Oil. Put
a quart of the oil with £ pound bright lead
shavings, and i pound quicklime pounded,
into a glass bottle, let it stand in the sun. and
light for 2 or 3 weeks, then put the oil and
lime into a saucepan with i pound washing
soda, boil gently 15 minutes, then set in the
coldest place possible till the next day, when
it will be found congealed; place it into a
filter of white blotting paper, place a clean
glass bottle under the filter, and you will get
the finest oil, suitable for the most delicate
machinery. Any one requiring a little nice
oil would do well to try this in preference to
buying it ready done. It must be kept per-
fectly cold while filtering, or the soda will go
through.
1515. Hirzel's Method of Preserving
Animal Fats. Mix 14 pounds of recently
melted fat with 5 drachms salt and 15 grains
alum in fine powder; heat until a scum is
formed on the surface ; remove the scum, and
when the clear fat is cool, wash and knead it
in water, frequently changing the water, so
as to remove all the salt ; then evaporate the
water at a heat insufficient to injure the fat.
1516. To Preserve Animal Fats for
a Long Time. The following mode of ben-
zoating all kinds of animal fats will be
found the most effectual for preserving them
for a long time. Make a saturated solu-
tion of gum benzoin in alcohol by simple
heat, allow the liquid to settle oiear, then
strain and mix with equal parts of fresh castor
oil. Of this mixture add 4 ounces to each
gallon of fat or ointment while warm. The
proportion of the solution of benzoin may be
increased for pomades, as it forms, by its aro-
matic odor, an excellent basis for perfumes.
The ben/oatic fat should not be kept in tin,
but in well-covered jars. Steam-rendered
lard, or that treated with salt and alum,
should be carefully re-melted in a water-bath,
to allow all the water to settle so as to pour
off the pure fat. In preparing ointment and
pomades it is important that the wax should
be first melted, and the oil or fat warmed
before adding to the wax. This precaution,
which will save much time and trouble, is
often neglected by young beginners. (See
Nos. 1253 and 1254.)
1517. Boillot's Process for Purify-
ing Fats. Melt 2| pounds avoirdupois of
the fat with 2 quarts lime-water; stir act-
ively over the fire for 2 or 3 hours, and cool.
Then press in flannel and allow it to stand a
day or two to harden. By melting it with
acidulated water to remove the excess of
lime, a hard fat .results, suitable for making
candles.
1518. Hog's Lard. This is obtained,
like the rest of the animal fats, from the raw
lard, by chopping it fine, or rather rolling it
out, to break the cells in which the fat is
lodged, and then melting the fat in a water-
bath, or other gentle heat, and straining it
while warm. Some boil them in water ; but
the fats thus obtained are apt to grow rank
much sooner than when melted by themselves.
(See No. 525.)
1519. To Try out Lard. This should
be done in the open air. Set a large kettle
over a fire, in some sheltered place, on a still
day. It will cook much quicker in large
quantities. Put into the kettle while the lard
is cold, a little saleratus, say 1 table-spoonful
to every 20 pounds; stir almost constantly
when nearly done till the scraps are brown
and crisp, or until the steam ceases to rise ;
then there is no danger of its moulding;
strain out into pans, and the first will be
ready to empty into crocks when the last is
strained.
1520. To Detect Water in Lard.
The presence of water is very easily detected
by merely melting the lard, when the water
collects at the bottom of the vessel as a dis-
tinct layer. The weight and volume of lard
can be greatly increased by the incorporation
of water with it ; and purchasers of a pound
of lard will frequently find thai; they have
paid the price of the lard for as much as 4
ounces of water. Lard is also adulterated
with from 2 to 5 per cent, of milk of lime
(slacked lime mixed to a milky consistence
with water) ; this gives the lard a beautifully
white appearance, and also allows of 25 per
cent, of water being stirred into it . While
cooling.
1521. Benzoated Lard. Take benzoin
in coarse powder, 1 ounce; fresh lard, 1
pound. Heat together for 2 or 3 hours in a
water-bath, and then strain.
1522. To Bleach Lard. Lard maybe
bleached by applying a mixture of bichromate
of potassa and muriatic acid, in minute pro-
portions, to the fat. (See Nos. 1509 and 1523,
also No. 537.)
1 523. To Bleach and Harden Tallow.
In a copper boiler, put •£ gallon water, and 100
pounds rendered tallow ; melt over a slow
fire, and add, while stirring, 1 pound of oil of
vitriol, previously diluted with 12 of water;
afterwards, i pound bichromate of potassa, in
powder ; and lastly, 13 pints water, after
which the fire is suffered to go down, when
the tallow will collect on the surface of the
dark green liquid, from which it is separated.
It is then of a fine white, slightly greenish
color, and possesses a considerable degree of
hardness. (See No. 1509.)
1524. Factitious or Imitation Sper-
maceti. White spermaceti, 10 parts ; sonor-
ous cake stearine, 20 parts; potato starch,
5 parts; mucilage, 1 part. Melt the first three
and unite well, then let the mass cool to the
consistence of dough ; turn it out on an oiled
marble or lead slab, and roll it into a cake ;
next sprinkle a little mucilage on it, double
it, and roll again; repeat the process as often
as required ; lastly allow it to cool. If it has
PETROLEUM, Oil CRUDE COAL OIL
157
been properly managed, it will flake when
broken up, and resemble spermaceti.
1525. Extraction of Fat from Bones.
A process has been adopted abroad for ex-
tracting oil and tat from bones and other
animal refuse, by digesting it in a closed and
heated vessel with benzole or similar hydro-
carbon. After a few hours the liquid is drawn
off, the hydrocarbon separated by distillation,
and the oil is left ready for use. The bones
may then be used for the manufacture of gela-
tine. This is very similar to a method lately
proposed of obtaining oil from oleaginous
seeds, but in this latter case, as would proba-
bly be preferable in the former, bisulphide of
carbon is the menstruum employed.
Petroleum, or Crude Coal
Oil. The name of petroleum is now
applied to all the native liquid substances
which have a bituminous character. It con-
sists, therefore, of an inflammable and more
or less volatile oily substance, ranging in color
and appearance from a yellowish white, trans-
parent fluid, to a brown or almost black,
opaque viscid mass. The former used to be
called naphtha, but this name is now given to
any oil of this description, whether native, or
distilled from & darker grade of petroleum.
The latter is the form iu which the bulk of the
petroleum is found in America; and this,
when exposed to the air, gradually passes into
asphaltum, or solid bitumen.
1527. To Purify Petroleum. Tank-
shaped stills of a capacity of 500 to 2500 bar-
rels are filled with crude oil, and heat applied
by furnaces beneath them, causing vapors to
arise, which are carried forward through pipes
immersed in water, and condensed into a
liquid, which runs out at the end of the pipe.
The first product is gasoline, a very light
hydrocarbon, marking as high as 83° and
as low as 75° of Baume"'s coal oil hydrom-
eter. The heat is then somewhat increased,
and the next product obtained is called
naphtha, benzine (not benzole), which marks
from 75° to 63° Baum6; and, when com-
bined, will average about 67°. The heat be-
ing allowed to increase further, produces dis-
tillate, or crude burning oil. This passes over
until about 8 or 10 per cent, of the original
quantity contained in the still remains, which
is called residuum or tar, and may be redistilled
for the purpose of obtaining paraffine and
lubricating oil. Paraffine is a fatty material,
resembling sperm in appearance. The distil-
late or crude burning oil is converted into or-
dinary kerosene by a process of purification.
For this purpose it is placed in a tank, where
it is violently agitated by forcing air through
it, and while thus agitated, 14- to 2 per cent,
sulphuric acid is added, after which the agita-
tion is continued 15 to 30 minutes. The oil is
then allowed to settle, when the acid and im-
purities are drawn from the bottom. The oil
is then washed, first with water and then
with caustic soda, by which means the re-
maining impurities are removed, and any acid
remaining in the oil is neutralized. It is then
taken to shallow bleaching tanks, where it is
exposed to light and air, and allowed to settle;
it is next heated by means of a coil of steam
pipe running through it, to expel all gaseous
vapors which will ignite at a temperature be-
low 110° Fahr. The oil is now called a fire
test oil, and is ready to be barreled and sent
to market.
1528. To Clarify Coal Oil. Place in a
close vessel 100 pounds crude coal oil, 25
quarts water, 1 pound chloride of lime, 1 pound
soda, and i pound oxide of manganese. The
mixture is violently agitated, and allowed to
rest for 24 hours, when the clear oil is decant-
ed and distilled. The 100 pounds coal oil are
to be mixed with 25 pounds resin oil ; this is
one of the principal points in the manipula-
tion ; it removes the gummy parts from the
oil, and renders them inodorous. The distil-
lation spoken of may terminate the process, or
the oils may be distilled before they are de-
fecated and precipitated.
1529. To Decolorize Kerosene Oil.
Kerosene oil is decolorized by stirring it up
with 1 or 2 per cent, of oil of vitriol, which
will carbonize the coloring matter, then with
some milk of lime or some other caustic
alkali, settling, and redistilling. The latter
appears to be indispensable.
1530. Why Kerosene or Coal Oils
Explode. No oil is explosive in and of
itself; it is only when the vapor arising there-
from becomes mixed in the proper proportions
with air, that it will explode. There should be
no inflammable vapor from any oil used for
burning in lamps at ordinary temperature. A
volatile oil is unfit for the purpose of illumi-
nation.
1531. To Test Kerosene or Coal Oil.
Burning oil is often adulterated with heavy
oil, or with benzine. The adulteration with
the former is shown by dimness of the flame
after having burned for some time, accom-
panied by a charring of the wick. The latter
may be readily detected by means of a ther-
mometer, a little warm water, and a table-
spoonful of the oil. Fill the cup with warm
water, the temperature of which is to be
brought to 110° Fahr. Pour the oil on the
water; apply flame to the floating oil by
match or otherwise. If the oil is unsafe it
will take fire, and its use in the lamp is
dangerous, for it is liable to explode. But if
the oil is safe and good it will not take fire.
All persons who sell kerosene that will not
stand the fire test at 110° are liable to prose-
cution.
1532. To Extinguish the Flame of
Petroleum or Benzine. Water, unless in
overwhelming quantity, will not extinguish
the flame of petroleum or benzine. It may,
however, be speedily smothered by a woolen
cloth or carpet, or a wet muslin or linen cloth,
or earth or sand being thrown over it. These
act by excluding the air, without which com-
bustion cannot be maintained.
1533. To Deodorize Benzine. Shake
repeatedly with plumbate of soda (oxide of
lead dissolved in caustic soda), and rectify.
The following plan is said to be better : Shako
repeatedly with fresh portions of metallic
quicksilver ; let stand for 2 days, and rectify.
1534. To Manage Kerosene Lamps.
These are so much used that a few hints on
their management will no doubt be accepta-
ble. There are very few common illumina-
158
L UBRICA TORS.
ting substancss that produce a light as bril-
liant and steady as kerosene oil, but its full
brilliancy is rarely attained, through want of
attention to certain requisite points in its
management. By following the directions
here given, the greatest amount of light will be
obtained, combined with economy in the con-
sumption of the oil. The wick, oil, lamp, and
all its appurtenances, must be perfectly clean.
The chimney must be not only clean, but clear
and bright. The wick must be trimmed ex-
actly square, across the wick -tube, and not
over the curved top of the cupola used to
spread the flame ; after trimming, raise the
wick, and cut off the extreme corners or
points. A wick cannot be trimmed well with
dull scissors ; the sharper the scissors, the bet-
ter the shape of the flame. These hints, sim-
ple as they appear, are greatly disregarded,
and the consequence is a flame dull, yellow,
and apt to smoke. The burners made with
an immovable cupola, and straight, cylindrical
chimneys, require especial care in trimming ;
the wick has to be raised above the cupola,
and has therefore no support when being
trimmed. A kerosene lamp, with the wick
turned down, so as to make a small flame,
should not be placed in a sleeping room at
night. A wick made of felt is greatly supe-
rior in every way to the common cotton wicks.
1535. To Keep Kerosene Lamps
from Getting Greasy. The upper part of
a kerosene oil lamp, after standing for a short
time, frequently gets oily, from the condensa-
tion of the vapor of the oil. This will be
greatly, if not entirely prevented, by taking
a piece of felt and cutting a hole in it so as to
fit exactly around the socket into which the
burner is screwed ; trim the felt off so as to
leave a rim about £ inch wide, and place this
felt ring on the socket.
1536. To Cement the Socket on a
Kerosene Lamp. The socket of a kerosene
lamp, into which the burner is screwed, fre-
quently becomes loose or comes off. To fas-
ten this, take the socket off, pick out the old
cement, and wash it with hot soap and wa-
ter, with a little soda, to remove all trace of
grease. Empty the lamp, and wash it in the
same manner, especially the lip or neck which
fits into the socket. Next take a cork which
fits (not too tight) into the socket ; grease it
slightly, and screw it into the socket (the
eome way the burner is screwed in), until
the end of the cork is nearly level with the
bottom of the socket; this will leave a circu-
lar trench to receive the cement. Take the
best plaster of Paris, mix it quickly as thick
as it will flow, fill the trench in the socket,
reverse the lamp, and press the lip of the glass
firmly into the socket until the edge of the
socket fits closely to the glass. This opera-
tion must be done quickly, before the plaster
has had time to set. Let the whole remain
about 12 hours in a warm place before using.
Then unscrew the cork and scrape off any
adhering plaster. (See No. 2260.)
1 537. To Clean Vessels Used to Con-
tain Kerosene. "Wash the vessel with thin
milk of lime, which forms an emulsion with
the petroleum, and removes every trace of it,
and by washing a second time with milk of
lime and a very small quantity of chloride of
lime, and allowing the liquid to remain in it
about an hour, and then using it with cold
water, even the smell may be so completely
removed as to render the vessel thus cleansed
fit for keeping beer in. At the same time the
external surface of the vessel is to be washed
with a rag dipped in the same substance. If
the milk'of lime be used warm, instead of
cold, the operation is rendered much shorter.
If particles of thickened petroleum adhere to
the glass after the first washing, these can be
removed by washing with fine sand, or by
other mechanical means.
1538. To Clean Kerosene Lamps.
"Wash the lamp inside and out thoroughly
with hot soap and water, and a little washing
soda. When clean, rinse repeatedly so as to
leave no trace of soap; let it drain till dry.
P TlTDriCSltOrS. Compounds to les-
I J sen the friction in machinery, and to
prevent the bearings from rusting. Lubrica-
tors must possess a certain amount of co-
hesive and adhesive attraction. But they
must also have the power to retain their
cohesion and fluidity under the action of
moderate heat, heavy pressure, and contact
with metals and air. The oxygen of the air
attacks many kinds of oils, rendering some
acid and others resinous ; and moreover some
oils of mineral extraction are contaminated
with acids, used in their rectification, which at-
tack metallic surfaces, the oxides of the metals
thus produced increasing friction mechani-
cally. The oxides of metals have the power
of saponifying vegetable and animal oils, and
no doubt this combination often takes place
when oils of this kind are used on rusty .bear-
ings. The soaps formed by the union of the
saponifiable parts of oils with metallic oxides
are hard and insoluble, and are, therefore,
much less perfect lubricators than the oils
themselves. Some oils, more particularly
those extracted from petroleum, are volatile,
and evaporate as soon as journals become
slightly heated. Oils possessing these de-
fects are unfit for purposes of general lubrica-
tion. Probably nothing else has ever been
discovered that possesses in so high a degree
all the properties desirable in a lubricator as
good, pure sperm oil. There have been, how-
ever, some close approximations to it in oils
extracted from petroleum. Many of the lat-
ter are, nevertheless, very inferior. Some ex-
cellent lubricating oils are also obtained from
various seeds. The olive and the castor bean
furnish oils very good for lubrication. Olive
oil is, however, too expensive for general ap-
plication to this purpose. (See No. 1495.)
1540. Sperm Oil as a Lubricator for
Heavy Machinery. The superiority of
winter sperm oil has been fully established
by experiments made during 14 months, on
the car and locomotive axles of a leading line
of railroad ; these went to prove that when
using mineral, animal or fish oils, it required
from 100 to 400 per cent, more of these oils
to keep the temperature of the journals below
100° Fahr. than when winter sperm oil was
employed ; and in no instance could the pres-
sure on the car-shaft be raised to 8,000 pounds
with any other oil. It was also established
WATERPROOFING.
159
that uiider various velocities, the amount of
this oil consumed ia lubrication decreased in
almost the same ratio as the velocity ; and
as the velocity and the requisite amount of
oil was diminished, the pressure could be in-
creased without any increased consumption
of oil.
1541. Booth's Axle Grease. This pop-
ular axle grease is made as follows : Dissolve
i pound common soda in 1 gallon water, add
3 pounds tallow and six pounds palm oil (or
10 pounds of palm oil only). Heat them to-
gether to 200° or 210° Fahr.; mix, and keep
the mixture constantly stirred till the compo-
sition is cooled down to 60° or 70°.
1542. Thin Axle Grease. A thinner
composition than the last is made with &
pound soda, 1 gallon water, 1 gallon rape oil,
and J pound tallow, or palm oil.
1543. French Idard for Lubrication.
The French compound, called liard, is thus
made : Into 50 parts of finest rape oil put
1 part of caoutchouc, cut small. Apply heat
until it is nearly all dissolved.
1544. Bavarian Anti-Friction Com-
position. This composition has been em-
ployed in Munich with success and economy
to diminish friction in machinery. It consists of
10i parts pure hog's lard melted with 2 parts
finely pulverized and sifted plumbago. The
lard is first to be melted over a moderate fire,
then the plumbago is thoroughly mixed in, a
handful at a time, with a wooden spoon, and
stirred until the mixture is of a uniform com-
position. This is applied in its cold state with
a brush to the pivots, the cogs of the wheels,
&c., and seldom more than once in 24 hours.
It was found that this composition replaced
satisfactorily the oil, tallow and tar used in
certain iron- works, and saved about four-fifths
of the cost of those articles.
1545. Lubricator for Wagon Axles.
Tallow, 8 pounds; palm oil, 10 pounds; and
plumbago, 1 pound, make a good lubricator
for wagon axles. A mixture of glycerine
and plumbago makes a fine liquid lubricator.
1546. Mankettrick's Lubricating
Compound. 4 pounds caoutchouc dissolved
in spirits of tm-peutine, 10 pounds common
soda, 1 pound glue dissolved in 10 gallons wa-
ter, 10 gallons of oil thoroughly incorporated
by assiduous stirring, adding the caoutchouc
last.
1547. Anti- Attrition Grease. Grind
together blacklead with four times its weight
of lard or tallow. This is used to lessen
friction in machinery, and to prevent iron
rusting. It was once a patent article. Cam-
phor is sometimes added, 7 pounds to the
cwt.
1548. Anti-Friction Grease. Boil
together If cwt. tallow with li cwt. palm
oil. When boiling point is reached, allow it
to cool to blood-heat, stirring it meanwhile,
then strain through a sieveinto^a solution
of $ cwt. soda in 3 gallons water, mixing it
well. The above is for summer. For winter,
11 cwt. tallow to If cwt. palm oil. Spring
and autumn, li tallow, li palm oil.
1549. Watchmakers' Oil. Prepared
by placing a strip of clean lead in a small
white glass bottle filled with olive oil, and ex-
posing it to the sun's rays at a window for
some time, till a curdy matter ceases to de-
posit, and the oil has become quite limpid and
colorless. Used for fine work ; does not get
thick by age. (See No. 1551.) Or: — expose
the finest porpoise oil to the lowest natural
temperature attainable. It will separate into
two portions, a thick, solid mass at the bot-
tom, and a thin, oily supernatant liquid. This
is to be poured off while at the low tempera-
ture named, and is then fit for use. Delicate
clocks and watches are now lubricated with
glycerine.
1550. To Prepare Oleine for Watch-
makers' Use. Oleine is the liquid portion
of oil and fat; by saponilication it yields
oleic acid. Almond or olive oil is agitated in
a stout bottle with 7 or 8 times its weight of
strong alcohol specific gravity .793, at nearly
the boiling point, until the whole is dissolved ;
the solution is allowed to cool, after which the
clear fluid is decanted from the stearine which
has been deposited, and after filtration, the
spirit is removed by distillation at a gentle
heat. By exposure "at a very low temperature
it deposits any remaining stearine, and then
becomes pure.
1551. To Refine Oil for Fine Mechan-
ism. Refined oil for fine mechanism can be
prepared by putting zinc and lead shavings, in
equal parts, into good Florence olive oil, and
placing in a cool place till the oil becomes
colorless. (See No. 1495.)
Waterproofing. Numerous
plans have been invented for ren-
dering cloth and felting waterproof: the best
methods adopted are given in Ihe following
receipts :
1553. Waterproof Porous Cloth. A
porous waterproof cloth is the best for outer
garments during wet weather, for those whose
duties or labor causes them to perspire freely.
The best way for preparing such cloth is by
the process adopted for the tunics of the
French soldiers during the Crimean war. It
is as follows : Take 2J pounds alum and dis-
solve in 10 gallons boiling water ; then in a
separate vessel dissolve the same quantity
sugar of lead in 10 gallons of water, and mix
the two solutions. The cloth is now well han-
dled in this liquid, until every part of it is
penetrated ; then it is squeezed and dried in
the air, or in a warm apartment, then washed
in cold water and dried again, when it is fit for
use. If necessary, the cloth may be dippedin
the liquid and dried twice before being wash-
ed. The liquor appears curdled when the
alum and lead solutions are mixed together.
This is the result of double decomposition,
the sulphate of lead, which is an insolu-
ble salt, being formed. The sulphate of
lead is taken up in the pores of the
cloth, and it is unaffected by rains or
moisture, and yet it does not render the
cloth air-tight. Such cloth is also partially
non-inflammable. A solution of alum itself
will render cloth, prepared as described, par-
tially waterproof, but it is not so good as the
sulphate of lead. Such cloth — cotton or wool-
en— sheds rain like the feathers on the back
of a duck.
1554. To Waterproof Tweed Cloaks.
Dissolve 4 pound alum in two quarts boiling
160
WA TER PROOFING.
water, and pour the solution into a vessel
containing 2 gallons cold spring water.
Immerse the garment in this vessel, and let
it remain 24 hours. Dissolve i pound sugar
of lead in 2 quarts of boiling water, and pour
the solution into another vessel containing 2
gallons of cold spring water. Take the gar-
ment from the first vessel, gently wring or
press it, and immerse it in the second vessel.
Let it remain 6 hours, gently wring it, and
hang it in the shade to dry. This receipt has
been tried, and found to answer admirably.
It is very similar to the last, but only half the
quantity of sugar of lead is used, and the
cloth is immersed in the solutions separately.
1555. Cooley's Method of Making
Cloth Waterproof. This is a simple, but
perfectly successful method of rendering
cloth waterproof without being, at the same
time, airproof. Spread the cloth on any
smooth surface, and rub the wrong side with
a lump of bees' wax (perfectly pure and free
from grease), until the surface presents a
slight, but uniform, white or grayish appear-
ance. If this be done carefully and thor-
oughly, a lighted candle may be blown out
through the cloth, if coarse ; and yet a piece
of the same, placed across an inverted hat,
may have several glassfulls of water poured
into the hollow formed by it, without any of
the liquid passing through ; pressure or fric-
tion will alone make it do so.
1556. French Waterproof Felting.
This composition, heretofore regarded as a
secret in France, has been adopted for use in
the French navy. The information regard-
ing this material was furnished by Mr. Parent
to the "Journal of Applied Chemistry." The
inoxidizable compound for waterproof is made
thus : 106i parts, by weight, India rubber, 175
parts finely sifted sawdust, 10 parts powdered
sulphur, 25 parts slacked lime, 125 parts sul-
phate of alumina, 125 parts sulphate of iron,
10 parts hemp tow. To mix the above, use
heated cylinders, so as to obtain a very
homogeneous paste, which is made into thin
cakes, and afterward divide into small pieces
to be dissolved. To dissolve this substance,
take 4J pounds spirits of turpentine, benzine,
(common is preferable), petroleum, or sul-
phuret of carbon, to 2i pounds of the mixture.
It must be stirred 5 or 6 times during 24
hours, at the end of which time the mass will
be thoroughly dissolved. The solution is then
spread on the fabrics or articles to be preserv-
ed, by means of rollers, knives, or spatulas,
adapted to the purpose. Apply as many
coats as may be necessary, and then let it dry.
As soon as the fabric is dry, it is passed un-
der pasteboard laminating rollers, in order to
give a lustre to the surface. The fabric is
then rolled up on a hollow iron pipe, which is
covered with cloth to prevent it sticking to
the iron, and the whole placed in a copper
'pipe, with a perforated lid or cover ; steam is
[then introduced at a pressure of 4 atmo-
spheres, which pressure is maintained for 1
hour, at the end of which time the operation
is ended. If it be desired to give these im-
permeable covers a black color, a solution of
sulphate of iron, nut-gall and logwood is ap-
plied with a brush.
1557. To Make Waterproof Joint
Closers. Caps or joint closers can be made of
about the same materials as the above by ob-
serving the following proportions: Dissolve
21£ parts, by weight, of India rubber, in suf-
ficient benzine; then mix with it 15 parts
sawdust, 2 parts sulphur, 3 parts red lead, and
5 parts each of alum, slacked lime, and hemp
tow, adding benzine to make the whole into
a paste. For closing the joints on steam en-
gines, hydraulic pumps, &c.
1558. To Bender Articles Water-
proof. A patent has recently been taken
out in Paris for a method of rendering paper,
cloth, cork, sponge, and other porous sub-
stances waterproof, as well as articles manu-
factured from these materials, including bank-
notes, envelopes, gloves, clothing, paper col-
lars, umbrellas, labels, &c. The process con-
sists in dissolving parafBne, cut up in small
slices, in pure naphtha or benzine, entirely free
from fat or oil. The solution is to be made
in a vessel with a glass stopper, and is to be
shaken repeatedly until the result is accom-
plished. An excess of paraffine should be
used, so as to make sure of having a perfectly
saturated solution. The articles to be treat-
ed are immersed in this for a time, according
to the thickness or porosity of the tissue, and
arranged to secure either a complete satura-
tion or the penetration of the liquid to
any required depth. After removal, the
articles are to be dried by the appli-
cation of heat, or in the air. The solvent
evaporates, leaving the paper or other sub-
stance saturated with paraffine impermeabla
to water, and capable of resisting the action
of acids. Articles of dress, such as paper
collars and wristbands, should be subjected to
the action of a flat-iron or heated cylinder, in
order to give them a high degree of polish.
The applications of this process are manifold,
and new ones are constantly suggesting {hem-
selves.
1559. Balard's Waterproofing for
Clothing. Balard recommends the applica-
tion of acetate of alumina for the purpose of
rendering clothing impervious to water. The
cloth is to be immersed in a mixture of solu-
tions of acetate of lead and sulphate of alum-
ina; by mutual decomposition of the salts,
acetate of alumina is produced on the cloth,
and when the goods are dried, basic acetate
of alumina adheres to the fibre, and thus pro-
tects it from the action of moisture. The
process is particularly recommended for mili-
tary goods.
1560. Berlin Waterproof Cloth. A
firm in Berlin has for some years furnished a
completely waterproof cloth, the process for
making which has been kept a secret. It is
now stated, however, that the method con-
sists, in all probability, in saturating the cloth
at first with a solution of sulphate of alum-
ina and of copper, and then immersing it in
a bath of water-glass and a solution of resin
soap. The object of the copper seems to be
to prevent the cloth from rotting or stiffening
more perfectly than can be done by the alum-
ina alone. ( Sec No. 1561.)
1561. To Waterproof Linen, Canvas,
&c. Three baths arc prepared as follows :
The first, by dissolving 1 part neutral sul-
phate of alumina (concentrated alum cake)
in 10 parts cold water. For the second, boil
1 part light resin, 1 part soda crystals and 10
HONEY.
161
parts water, till the soda is dissolved ; add
part common salt, to separate the water and
collect the soap ; dissolve this soap with an
equal amount of good palm-oil soap in 30
parts water. This soap bath must be used
hot. The third bath consists of water only.
Soak the fabric thoroughly in the first, or
alum bath ; next pass it through the soap
bath ; and lastly, rinse in the water. (See No.
1560.)
1562. Metallic Soap. Metallic soap
in linseed oil is highly recommended for coat-
ing canvas for wagon covers, tents, <fec., as
being not only impermeable to moisture, but
remaining pliable for a long time without
breaking. It can be made with little expense,
as follows : Soft soap is to be dissolved in hot
water, and a solution of copperas (sulphate
of iron) added. The sulphuric acid com-
bines with the potash of the soap, and the
oxide of iron is precipitated with the fatty
acid as insoluble iron soap. This is washed
and dried, and mixed with linseed oil.
The addition of dissolved India rubber to the
oil greatly improves the paint.
1563. To Bender Canvas Fire and
Waterproof. Tents, awnings, canvas, <fcc.,
may be made fireproof as well as waterproof,
by immersion in soluble glass diluted with
boiling water to 25° Baume". Before thor-
oughly dry, immerse in a solution of sulphate
of alumina (alum cake) and sulphate of cop*
per (blue vitriol), Ipart of each to 10 parts of
water ; then dry the fabric slowly in the air.
1564. Fireproofing Fabrics. A solu-
tion of 3 parts borax and 2£ parts sulphate of
magnesia in 20 parts water is recommended.
Or a mixture of sulphate of ammonia and
sulphate of lime. Soluble glass is applicable
to rendering wood and theatrical decorations
less inflammable.
HOH6V. The sweet substance ex-
tracted by the bee from the juices of
the nectaries of flowers, and deposited in the
cells of wax forming the honey-comb. Pure
honey consists of a syrup of uncrystallizable
sugar and crystalline saccharine grains, re-
sembling grape sugar. Virgin honey is that
which flows spontaneously from the comb;
ordinary honey, that obtained by heat and
pressure.
1566. To Purify Honey. Take of
honey, 8 pounds ; water, 16 pounds ; heat in
a tin vessel to 212° Fahr. (not to boiling) for
1 hour ; then set aside over night. Mix with
fresh coarsely powdered charcoal, 2 ounces
Troy, and strain through flannel, then evapo-
rate in a steam bath, at about 175° Fahr., to
the proper consistence.
Hoffmann dilutes the honey with water,
adds solution of tannin as long as precipitation
takes place, heats to 212°, strains and evapo-
rates as before.
Mohr and Eebling have an unfavorable
opinion of charcoal, and recommend tannin or
powdered galls.
Strauss, of St. Petersburg, likewise removes
an excess of tannin by means of gelatin.
1567. Rebling's Method of Purify-
ing Honey. One half ounce of honey and
i ounce water are mixed with -J- grain pow-
dered galls, heated to boiling, and then mixed
with sufficient lime-water to neutralize the
acid. For the best honey it takes 2 drachms.
This is merely a preliminary test to determine
the necessary quantity of lime-water. A floc-
culent precipitate takes place, which readily
separates, leaving the honey perfectly clear
and of a very pale yellow color, like that of
an old Bhine wine ; the strained liquor must
be perfectly neutral. From the quantity of
lime-water necessary, the quantity of the
whole lot of honey is calculated, and is then
treated as follows : 1 pound avoirdupois each
of honey and water are heated, 4 grains pow-
dered galls are added ; the whole well stirred,
heated to boiling, and the whole quantity of
lime-water added at once. The fire is imme-
diately slackened and after a few minutes the
honey, when sufficiently clear, is strained ; if
still acid, reheating and an addition of more
lime-water will be necessary. It is to be
evaporated as above.
1568. Vogel's Method of Purifying
Honey. Vogel's method is to beat 5 pounds
honey with the white of 1 egg till it froths,
and then add water to make it of the consist-
ence of syrup; it is next boiled until the
white of egg can be skimmed off. Pour it
into an upright vessel into which a faucet has
been inserted near the bottom, and let it set-
tle for some weeks — when the pure honey
may be drawn off through the faucet.
1569. To Clarify Honey. Melt the
honey in a water-bath, remove the scum, and
pour off the clear. Less agreeable than raw
honey, but not so apt to ferment and gripe.
1570. Siller's Method of Clarifying
Honey. Any quantity of honey is dissolved
in an equal part, by weight, of water. The
liquid is allowed to boil up 4 or 6 times with-
out skimming ; it is then removed from the
fire, and after being cooled, brought on several
strong linen strainers, stretched horizontally,
and covered with a layer of clean and well-
washed sand an inch in depth. When the
solution has passed through the strainers, it
is found to be of the color of clear white wine;
the sand being allowed to remain on the
strainers, is rinsed with cold water, and the
whole of the liquor is finally evaporated to the
thickness of syrup.
1571. To Clarify Honey. Dissolve
the honey in water, add 1£ pounds animal
charcoal to every 28 pounds of honey, gently
simmer for 15 minutes, add a little chalk to
saturate excess of acid, if required ; strain or
clarify, and evaporate. Observe. — Honey
acquires a darker color if heated in copper or
iron vessels; the above processes should
therefore be conducted in earthen or well-
tinned copper pans.
1572. Shute's Artificial Honey. Soft
water, 6 pounds ; pure best honey, 3 pounds ;
white moist sugar, 20 pounds ; cream of tar-
tar, 80 grains; essence of roses, 24 drops.
Mix the above in a brass kettle, boil over a
harcoal fire 5 minutes, take it off, add the
whites of 2 eggs well beaten ; when almost
cold, add 2 pounds more honey. A decoction
of slippery elm will improve the honey if it
be added while cooling, but it will ferment in
warm weather and rise to the surface.
1573. Cuba Honey. Good brown sugar,
11 pounds; water, 1 quart; old bee honey in
162
BEES' WAX.
the comb, 2 pounds ; cream of tartar, 50
grains ; gum-arabic, 1 ounce ; oil of pepper-
mint, 5 drops; oil of rose. 2 drops. Mix and
boil 2 or 3 minutes and remove from the fire.
Have ready, strained, 1 quart water in which
a table-spoonful of pulverized slippery elm bark
has stood sufficiently long to make it ropy and
thick like honey. Mix this into the kettle
with egg well beat up. Skim well in a few
minutes, and when a little cool add 2 pounds
nice strained bees' honey, and then strain the
whole, and you will have not only an article
which looks and tastes like honey, but which
possesses all its medical properties. (The
slippery elm will ferment in warm weather
and rise to the surface.)
1574. Artificial Honey. Take 10
pounds Havana sugar, 4 pounds water, 40
grains cream of tartar, 10 drops essence of
peppermint, and 3 pounds honey; first dissolve
the sugar in the water over a slow fire, and
take off the scum. Then dissolve the cream
of tartar in a little warm water, and add, with
some stirring; then add the honey, heated to
a boiling point ; then add the essence of pep-
permint; stir for a few moments, and let it-
stand until cold, when it will be ready for
use.
1575. Excellent Honey. Take 5 pounds
good common sugar, 2 pounds water, gradu-
ally bring to a boil, skimming well; when
cool, add 1 pound bees' honey and 4 drops of
peppermint. If you desire a better article
use white sugar and i pound less water and i
pound more honey.
1576. To Test the Purity of Honey.
Honey is frequently adulterated with molasses,
potato-sugar syrup, starch, wheat flower, and
water. The molasses may be detected by
the color and odor ; the potato-sugar syrup,
by boiling a sample of the honey for a short
time in water containing 2 or 3 per cent, of
caustic potassa ; if the liquid remains color-
less it is pure ; but if it turns brown, more or
less, it is adulterated according to the quan-
tity of syrup present. The starch, by the honey
not forming a nearly clear solution with cold
water, and striking a blue color with iodine.
When it contains wheat flour and is heated,
it at first liquefies, but on cooling it becomes
solid and tough. "Water is added to honey to
increase its bulk. Its presence may be sus-
pected from the greater thinness of the liquid.
Bees' "Wax. . The substance which
forms the cells of bees; obtained by
melting the comb in water after the honey
has been removed, straining the liquid mass,
remelting the defecated portion, and casting
into cakes. Bees' wax, when pure, has neither
taste nor smell ; it melts at about 157° Fahr.,
and is of a specific gravity of .966. It burns
without smoke or disagreeable odor. It is in-
soluble in water, but soluble in all proportions
in the fixed and volatile oils, bisulphide of car-
bon, and benzine. Its complete solution in
these substances demonstrates its freedom
from fecula, sulphur, sawdust, or bone dust,
which have been found in the wax of com-
merce, sometimes amounting to 60 per cent,
of the whole weight. The abundance and low
price of paraffine have made this substance
one of the principal articles used in the falsifi-
cation of wax, and perhaps of all others it is
the least objectionable, being without marked
physiological effect upon the system.
1578. To Bleach Wax. Pure white
wax is obtained from the ordinary bees' wax
by exposure to the influence of the sun and
weather. The wax is sliced into thin flakes,
and laid on sacking or coarse cloth, stretched
on frames, resting on posts to raise them from
the ground. The wax is turned over fre-
quently, and occasionally sprinkled with soft
water, if there be not dew and rain sufficient
to moisten it. The wax should be bleached
in about 4 weeks. If, on breaking the flakes,
the wax still appears yellow inside, it is ne-
cessary to melt it again, and flake and expose
it a second time, or even oftener, before it be-
comes thoroughly bleached. The time re-
quired being mainly dependent on the state of
the weather. There is a preliminary process,
by which, it is claimed, much time is saved in
the subsequent bleaching; this consists in
passing melted wax and steam through long
pipes, so as to expose the wax as much as
possible to the action of the steam; thence
into a pan heated by a steam bath, where it
is stirred thoroughly with water and then al-
lowed to settle. The whole operation is re-
peated a second and third time, and the wax
as then in a condition to be more readily
bleached.
1570. To Bleach Wax. Wax cannot
be bleached with chemicals; if any other
agent but sunshine is employed, part of its
properties will be destroyed, and it is genuine
wax no longer. Chlorine will whiten, but at
the same time greatly injure it. The chlorine
is retained, and forms, on combustion, muriatic
acid.
1580. French Method of Bleaching
Bees' Wax. The wax is melted in copper
vessels, and, after complete liquefaction, is
agitated with 8 ounces ol pulverized cream of
tartar for each 100 pounds. After some
minutes' agitation it is allowed to deposit its
impurities, and is drawn into a wooden vessel
and allowed to deposit a further amount of
foreign substance— <lirt, sand, bees, etc. — and,
while still liquid, is drawn upon a little roller
partly immersed in water, to which a regular
rotation is given — thus producing thin sheets
or ribbons of wax, which may be detached
from the roller, being now ready for the pro-
cess of bleaching. This is accomplished by
the exposure of the yellow scales and ribbons,
upon cloths, to the direct rays of the sun and
the dew, for several days, during which time
the wax completely loses its color. It is,
however, in practice impossible to bleach the
wax at a single operation, as the effect takes
place only on the surface, and, as the ribbons
have a certain thickness, it is necessary to
melt them anew, and having repeated the
operation of granulating, it is submitted to a
second exposure. The wax thus bleached is
melted, and cast into discs of 1 to 2 ounces
weight, and forms the cera alba of the Phar-
macopoeia.
1581. Italian Method of Bleaching
Bees' Wax. The yellow wax is first melted
in a kettle, and then is dipped out into a long
tin vessel that will hold 2 or 3 gallons, and
BEES' WAX.
163
Which has a row of small holes, about the
diameter of a knitting-needle, in the bottom.
This vessel is fixed over a cylinder of wood 2
feet in length and 15 inches in diameter,
•which is made to revolve like a grindstone, in
one end of a trough of water 2^- feet in width,
10 to 15 feet in length, and 1 foot in depth.
' As the melted wax falls in small streams on
this wet revolving cylinder, it flattens out in-
to a thin ribbon and floats off toward the
other end of the trough of water. It is then
dipped out with a skimmer (that may be
made of osier twigs), spread on a table (with
a top made of small willow rods, covered with
a clean white cloth), and then exposed in this
way to the sun until bleached.
1582. To Detect Spermaceti in Wax.
The presence of spermaceti in what is sold as
virgin wax, is shown by its reduced melting
point, its bending before it breaks, and by its
flavor when chewed.
1583. To Detect Japanese Wax in
Bees' Wax. According to Hager, this is de-
termined by their different behavior in a con-
centrated solution of borax, at the boiling
point. Bees' wax is totally insoluble in such
a solution, while Japanese wax dissolves, and
on cooling forms a milky white, gelatinous
mass. From a mixture of the two the latter
is dissolved out, carrying with it a portion of
the former, while another portion rises and
congeals on the surface.
1584. To Refine Bees' Wax. Crude
wax, especially that imported, is generally
loaded with dirt, bees, and other foreign mat-
ter. To free it from these substances, it un-
dergoes the operation of refining. This is
done by melting the wax along with about 3
per cent, of water in a bright copper boiler,
preferably heated by steam, and after the
whole is perfectly liquid, and has boiled for a
few minutes, withdrawing the heat, and
sprinkling over its surface a little oil of vitriol,
in the proportion of about 3 or 4 fluid ounces
to every 100 pounds of wax. This operation
should be conducted with great care and cir-
cumspection ; as, if done carelessly, the melted
wax will froth up, and boil over the sides of
the pan. The acid should also be well scat-
tered over the whole surface. The melted wax
is next covered over, and left for some hours
to settle, or till it becomes sufficiently cool to
be drawn off into the moulds. It is then very
gently skimmed with a hot ladle, and bailed
or decanted into basins, where it is left to
cool. Great care must be taken not to disturb
the sediment. "When no more clear wax can
be drawn off, the remainder in the melting
pan is allowed to cool, and the cake or foot,
as it is called, is taken out, and the impurities
(mostly bees) scraped from its under surface.
The remaining portion is usually reserved for
a second operation, but, if required, may be at
once melted, and strained through canvas
into a mould. The great art in the above
process is to produce a wax which shall at
once be bright or semi- translucent in thin
pieces, and good colored. The former is best
insured by allowing the melted mass to settle
well, and by carefully skimming and decant-
ing the clear portion without disturbing the
sediment. It should also not be poured into
the moulds too warm, as, in that case, it is
apt to separate, and the resulting cakes to be
streaky, or of different shades of color. It
should also be allowed to cool very slowly.
"When cooled rapidly, especially if a current of
air fall upon its surface, it is apt to crack and
form cakes full of fissures. Some persons
who are very nice about their wax, have the
cakes polished with a stiff brush when quite
cold and hard. It is necessary to have the
cans, ladles, and skimmers used in the above
process kept quite hot, as without this precau-
tion the wax cools, and accumulates upon
them in such quantity as to render them in-
convenient, and often quite useless, without
being constantly scraped out.
1585. To Refine Wax. Another method
of refining crude wax, and which produces a
very bright article, is to melt it with about 1
Eer cent, of concentrated nitric acid, in a
irge earthen or stoneware vessel, heated by
steam or a salt-water bath, and to continue
the boiling till nitrous fumes cease to be
evolved, after which the whole is allowed to
settle, and treated as before.
1586. To Color Bees' Wax. Much of
the imported wax has a pale dirty color,
which renders it, no matter how pure, objec-
tionable to the retail purchaser. Such wax
undergoes the operation of coloring. This is
done as follows : — A small quantity of the
best roll annotto, cut into slices (i pound,
more or less, to 1 cwt. wax, depending on the
paleness of the latter), is put into a clean
boiler with about a gallon of water, and
boiled for some time, or till it is perfectly dis-
solved, when a few ladlefuls of the melted
wax are added, and the boiling continued till
the wax has taken up all the color, or till the
water is mostly evaporated. The portion of
wax thus treated has now a deep orange color,
and is added in quantity as required to the
remainder of the melted wax in the larger
boiler, till the proper shade of color is produced
when cold, observing to well mix the whole,
and to cool a little now and then to ascertain
when enough has been added. The copper
must be then brought to a boil, and treated
with vitriol, &c., as before. (See No. 1584.)
1587. To Color Bees' Wax. Another
method is to add bright palm oil to the wax
till it gets sufficient color; but this plan is
objectionable from the quantity required for
the purpose being often so large as to injure
the quality of the wax; besides which the
color produced is inferior, and less transparent
and permanent.
1588. Factitious, or Imitation Bees'
Wax. Yellow resin, 16 pounds ; hard mut-
ton suet or stearine, 8 pounds ; palm oil, 2^
pounds ; melt together.
II. As last, but substitute turmeric, 1 pound,
for the palm oil.
III. Best annotto, 6 ounces, or sufficient to
color ; water, 1 gallon ; boil till dissolved, add
hard mutton suet or stearine, 35 pounds ; yel-
low resin, 70 pounds ; boil with constant agi-
tation till perfectly mixed and of a proper
color, and as soon as it begins to thicken,
pour it out into basins to cool. "When cold
rub each cake over with a little potato starch.
Used instead of wax in ointments by farriers.
1589. Braconot's Method of Making
Artificial Wax. Any animal grease or
tallow is liquefied by oil of turpentine, and
poured into small round boxes lined with felt
CHEESE.
in the inside, with a number of small holes
bored in the sides and the bottom. From
these little boxes the liquid is pressed out
gradually, but sufficiently to get rid of the
turpentine oil and all the fluidity. The firm
mass remaining must be washed a long time
in water, to take away the smell of the oil of
turpentine, and then kept fluid for several
hours with animal charcoal freshly prepared
and afterwards filtered whilst boiling. "W"hen
cooled, it is a substance beautifully white,
half transparent, dry, brittle, and free from
taste or smell ; and will mix well with chlo-
rine or muriatic acid, or with £ of wax to give
it the necessary suppleness. In this state
the mass can be made into candles not to be
distinguished from wax lights. The turpen-
tine is separated from the other oil, and
evaporated by means of distillation; and this
oil, when purified and whitened with animal
charcoal, is of great service in the preparation
of a soap extremely well adapted for the trade
and for household purposes. This animal oil,
when saponified with potash, and then by
means of the sulphuric acidulated soda often
contained in the mother lye, can be changed
into a hard soda soap. There is also a sul-
phate of potash, much in demand in the alum
works, to be obtained from it.
1590. Modeling Wax. This is made
of white wax, which is melted and mixed
with lard to make it malleable. In working
it, the tools and the board or stone are moist-
ened with water, to prevent its adhering ; it
may be colored to any desirable tint with dry
color.
1 591 . Wax for Polishing Floors. To
prepare this, 12i pounds yellow wax, rasped,
are stirred into a hot solution of 6 pounds good
pearl-ash, in rain water. Keeping the mixture
well stirred while boiling, it is first quiet, but
soon commences to froth ; and when the effer-
vescence ceases, heat is stopped, and there
are added to the mixture, while still stirring,
6 pounds dry yellow ochre. It may then be
poured into tin cans or boxes, and hardens on
cooling. When wanted for use, a poxind of it
is diffused in 5 pints boiling hot water, and
the mixture well stirred, applied while still
hot to the 'floor by means of a paint-brush.
It dries in a few hours, after which the floor
is to be polished with a large floor-brush
and afterwards wiped with a coarse woolen
cloth. A coat of this paint will last six
months.
. The materials employed in
making cheese are milk and rennet. The
milk may be of any kind, from the poorest
skimmed milk to that rich in cream, according
to the quality of the cheese required. The
poorest kind of cheese is made from the
former, and the finer from the latter, to which
additional cream is frequently added. The
materials being ready, the greater portion of
the milk is put into a large tub, and the re- :
mainder sufficiently heated to raise the whole j
quantity to the temperature of new milk.
The whole is then whisked together, the rennet
(sec No. 1595) added, and the tub covered
over. It is now allowed to stand until com-
pletely turned, when the curd is struck down
several times with the skimming-dish, after
which it is allowed to subside. The vat
covered with cheese-cloth is next placed on a
horse or ladder over the tub, and filled with
curd by means of the skimmer ; the curd is
pressed down with the hands, and more added
as it sinks. This process is repeated until
the curd rises to about 2 inches above the
edge. The cheese thus partially separated
from the whey is now placed in a clean tub,
and a proper quantity of salt added, or the
salt is added to it without removing it from
the vat, after which a board is placed over
and under it, and pressure applied for 2 or 3
hours. The cheese is next turned out and
surrounded by a fresh cheese-cloth, and pres-
sure again applied for 8 or 10 hours, when it
is commonly removed from the press, salted
all over, and pressed again for 15 to 20 hours.
The quality of the cheese especially depends
on this part of the process, as, if any of the
whey be left in the cheese, it will not keep,
but will rapidly become bad flavored. Before
placing it in the press the last time, the
edges should be pared smooth and sightly.
It now only remains to wash the outside of
the cheese in warm whey or water, wipe it
dry, color it with annotto, and place it in a
cool place to mature or ripen.
1 593. To Collect the Curd in Making
Cheese. There are several methods adopted
of collecting the curd, and as the flavor of
the cheese varies accordingly, it is as well to
notice them. One way is to break the curd
early, and to remove the whey as soon as
possible; another plan is to gather it with
the hands very gently towards the sides of
the tub, letting the whey run off through the
fingers until it becomes cleared, and .ladling
it off as it collects. A third method i's to re-
move it as quickly as possible with the curd-
skimmer. Of these the second plan is said to
be the best, as it preserves the oily particles,
many of which are lost by the other methods.
1594. To Make Cream Cheese. This
is made either of the " strippings" (the last
of the milk drawn from the cow at each milk-
ing), or of a mixture of milk and cream. It
is usually made up into small pieces, and a
gentle pressure, as that of a 2 or 4 pound
weight, applied to press out the whey. After
twelve hours, it is placed upon a board or
wooden trencher, and turned every day, until
dry. In about three weeks it will be ripe.
Nothing but raw cream, turned with a little
rennet (see No. 1595) is employed, when a
very rich cheese is wanted. A little salt is
generally added, and frequently a little pow-
dered lump sugar. The vats employed for
cream cheeses are usually square, and of small
size.
1595. Rennet. The stomach of the
calf, freed from the outer skin, fat, and use-
less membrane, is washed, treated with either
brine or dry salt for, a few hours, and then
stretched out upon a stick and hung up to
dry. It is employed for curdling milk. A
piece of the requisite size is cut off and soaked
for some hours in whey or water, after which
the whole is added to the milk slightly
warmed, or, if necessary, heated to about
120° Fahr. In a short time the milk sepa-
rates into a white curd, and a yellowish fluid
PRESERVATIVES.
165
called whey. 2 square inches from a good
rennet are sufficient for a cheese of 60 pounds.
1596. Essence of Rennet. Knead to-
§ ether 12 ounces fresh rennet cut small, and
ounces common salt ; leave the mixture for
5 or 6 weeks in a cool place ; then add 18
ounces water, and 2 ounces good rum or
proof spirit. Digest for 24 hours ; filter, and
color with a little burnt sugar. 2 or 3 tea-
spoonfuls will curdle a quart of milk.
1597. Condensed Milk. There is no
difficulty in manufacturing condensed milk,
and the process consists only in careful evap-
oration, addition of sugar, and sealing up of
the article. The evaporation should be con-
ducted in a vacuum, to prevent the milk from
becoming brown and acquiring a bitter taste.
It is best to stir it constantly, or the skin of
coagulated casein at the top will prevent
quick evaporation. When sufficiently thick
or condensed it is mixed with J its weight of
granulated sugar, stirred well, filled in tins,
and soldered up.
Preservatives. These consist
of such substances or methods as are
employed for preventing decay in fruits, meat,
and other perishable matter; together with
valuable antiseptics.
1599. To Dry Fresh Meat. Cut the
flesh into slices from 2 to 6 ounces in weight,
immerse a small portion at a time in boiling
water for 5 or 6 minutes, using only just
water enough to cover the meat, and adding
fresh water only to keep the liquor up to its
original quantity. Lay the meat to dry on
open trellis-work in a drying stove, keeping
the temperature at about 122° Pahr. In
about two days the meat will be completely
dry, having lost about f- its weight. Add a lit-
tle salt and spice, especially coriander, to the
liquor or soup in which the meat was im-
mersed, and then evaporate it to a gelatinous
consistence. "When the flesh is perfectly dry,
dip it, piece by piece, in the gelatinous mat-
ter liquefied by a gentle heat, and replace it
in the stove to dry, repeating this varnishing
and drying 2 or 3 times, so- as to get the coat-
ing uniformly thick. Meat thus dried will
keep good for a year.
1600. To Smoke Meat. This process
consists in exposing meat, previously salted,
to wood-smoke, in an apartment (usually
called a smoke-house), into which the smoke
is admitted by flues at the bottom of the side
walls. The meat absorbs the pyroligneous
acid of the smoke, and gets dried at the same
time. It may be protected from soot by rub-
bing over with bran, or wrapping in a cloth.
The smoke from oak or beech wood is prefera-
ble ; and the smoking is better slow and gen-
tle than rapid and powerful ; the latter plan
being too often adopted from motives of
economy. Hams thus prepared, as is often
the case, are ham merely on the surface, and
corned pork inside. This process is some-
times imitated by immersing the meat
for a few hours in diluted pyrolygneous acid,
but it is apt to harden or toughen the meat.
1601. Smoking Fluid. One drop of
creosote in a pint of water imparts a smoky
flavor to fish or meat dipped into it for a few
minutes.
1602. To Dry-Salt and Pickle Meat.
This is best performed by well rubbing the
meat with a mixture of salt, 2 pounds ; salt-
petre, 2 ounces; and moist sugar 1^ ounces,
till every crevice is thoroughly penetrated,
after which it should be set aside till the next
day, when it should be covered with fresh salt
in such parts as require it. It may then be
advantageously placed in any proper vessel,
and subjected to pressure, adding a little fresh
salt as necessary, and turning it daily till suf-
ficiently cured. When the brine as it forms
is allowed to drain from the meat, the process
is called dry-salting; but when, on the con-
trary, it is allowed to remain on it, the arti-
cle is said to be wet-salted. On the small
scale, the latter is most conveniently performed
by rubbing the meat with salt, &c., as above,
and after it has lain a few hours, putting it
into a pickle formed by dissolving 4 pounds
salt, £ or 1 pound sugar, and 2 ounces salt-
petre in 2 gallons water. This pickling liquor
gets weaker by use, and should therefore be
occasionally boiled down a little and skimmed,
at the same time adding some more of the
dry ingredients.
1603. Pickle to Give Meat a Bed
Color. Mix brown sugar, bay salt, com-
mon salt, each 2 pounds; saltpetre, 8 ounces;
water, 2 gallons; this pickle gives meat a
fine red color, while the sugar renders it mild
and of excellent flavor. Large quantities
are to be managed by the above proportions.
1604. To Salt Meat by Injection.
The sooner meat is salted after being killed,
the better, as it then possesses considerable
absorbent power, which it gradually loses by
age. On this property is based the process of
M. Gannel for the preservation of animals
intended for food in a fresh state. This opera-
tion consists in injecting a solution of chlor-
ide of aluminum at 10C Baume", into the car-
otid, by means of a syphon, as soon as the
blood ceases to flow from the slaughtered ani-
mal, both extremities of the jugular vein
being previously tied. 9 to 12 quarts of the
solution are sufficient for an ox. When the
animal has been well bled, and the injection
skillfully performed, it is scarcely perceptible
that the animal has undergone any prepara-
tion. The injected animal is cut up in the
usual way ; and when intended to be eaten
within 2 or 3 weeks, merely requires to be
hung up in a dry situation free from flies;
but if it is to be kept for a longer period, it is
directed to be washed with a mixed solution
of common salt and chloride of aluminum at
10° Baume, and then simply dried and packed
in clean air-tight barrels, and kept in a cool,
dry place. If the air cannot be perfectly ex-
cluded, it should be packed in dry salt, not
for the purpose of preserving it, but to pre-
vent the meat from becoming musty from ex-
posure and the action of moisture. Meat pre-
served by this process may be kept for several
years, and merely requires soaking for 24
hours in water, for the purpose of swelling its
pores, to give it the appearance and taste of •
fresh meat, fit either for roasting or boiling.
1605. Pelouze's Process of Preserv-
ing Meat. The meat is to be cut up into
pieces of convenient size, and subjected to
166
PRESERVATIVES.
an atmosphere of carbonic oxide under pres-
sure. After this a current of dry air is passed
over the meat, so as to carry off all the mois-
ture, aud this being accomplished, a solution
either of salt or saltpetre, or much diluted
carbolic acid, is to be brought into contact
•with it, and the mass then sealed up in a
tight vessel.
1606. To Cure Hams. Cover the bot-
tom of the cask with coarse salt, lay on the
hams with the smooth or skin side down,
sprinkle over fine salt, then another layer of
hams, and so continue until the cask is full.
This ought to be of the larger kind. A cask
holding 64 gallons is small enough, and it
would be better if it held 120 gallons. Make a
brine in the following proportions : 6 gallons
water, 9 pounds salt, 4 pounds brown sugar,
3 ounces saltpetre, 1 ounce saleratus. Scald
and skim, and when cold pour the brine into
the cask until the hams are completely cov-
ered. The hams should remain in this pickle
at least three months, and a little longer time
would do them no harm. A handful each of
mace aud cloves scattered in the brine will
greatly improve the flavor of the meat.
1607. To Cure Beef and Pork. To
each gallon of water add 1£ pounds salt,
•J pound sugar, £ ounce saltpetre, and -J- ounce
potash. Let these be boiled together until
all the dirt from the sugar rises to the top and
is skimmed off. Then throw it into a tub to
cool, and when cold, pour it over the beef or
pork, to remain the usual time, say 4 or 5
weeks. The meat must be well covered with
pickle, and should not be put down for at
least 2 days after killing, during which time
it should be slightly sprinkled with powdered
saltpetre, which removes all the surface
blood, <fec., leaving the meat fresh and clean.
Some omit boiling the pickle, and find it to
answer well, though the operation of boil-
ing purifies the pickle by throwing off the
dirt always to be found in salt and sugar.
Ham cured in this manner may be smoked as
usual, and will be found excellent. This re-
ceipt has been tried with complete satisfac-
tion.
1608. Brine or Pickle for Pork, &c.
Brown sugar, bay salt, common salt, of each
2 pounds; saltpetre, i pound ; water, 1 gallon.
Boil gently and remove the scum. Another
meat pickle is made with 12 pounds salt,
2 pounds sugar or molasses, k pound nitre, and
sufficient water to dissolve it. To cure hams,
mix 5 ounces nitre with 8 ounces coarse sugar ;
rub it on the ham, and in 24 hours rub in 2
pounds salt, and in two weeks 2 pounds more.
The above is for a ham of 20 pounds ; it
should lie in the salt a month or 5 weeks.
1609. Liebig's Extract of Meat. Cut
the lean of fresh-killed meat very small, put
it into 8 times its weight of cold water, and
heat it gradually to the boiling point. When
it has boiled for a few minutes, strain it
through a cloth, and evaporate the liquor
gently by water-bath to a soft mass. 2 pounds
meat yield 1 ounce extract. Fat must be
carefully excluded, or it will not keep.
1610. To Preserve Meat with Vine-
gar. This may be done either by washing
the meat, drying and laying in strong vinegar ;
or by being boiled in the vinegar, leaving it in
the vinegar until cold, and 'then set aside in a
ool cellar, where it will keep sound for severai
months.
1611. To Can Meat. Remove the
bones from fresh meat, parboil the flesh, put
it into a clean tin can, and fill up with rich
seasoned soup ; solder on the lid, pierced with
a very small hole. Next put the tin into a
bath of brine and heat until the steam issues
from the hole ; then solder up and at the same
time remove the can from the bath. In a
short time the pressure of the air will induce
a slight concavity of the top and bottom of
the can. If the process has been successfully
Eerformed, this concavity will be permanent ;
ut if, at any future time, the concavity has
ceased, or the ends become slightly convex,
it is a sure sign that the meat has become
putrid. The system of canning has been in
later years applied to preserving fresh fruits
and vegetables, and is done on substantially
the same principles, namely, filling the can
with steam, and hermetically sealing before
the steam condenses. (See No. 1634.)
1612. To Keep Meat Fresh. Place
the meat on a wooden support (or suspend it)
in a close vessel, on the bottom of which some
strong acetic acid has been poured. In this
way it may be kept fresh for a considerable
time.
1613. Preservation of Hams. Most
grocers, dealers in hams, and others, who are
particular in their meat, usually take the pre-
caution to case each one, after it is smoked, in
canvas, for the purpose of defending it from
the attacks of a little insect, the dermestes
lardarius, which, by laying its eggs in it, soon
fills it with its larvee, or maggots. This
troublesome and expensive process may be al-
together superseded by the use of pyroligneous
acid. "With a painter's brush, dipped in the
liquid, one man, in the course of a day", may
effectually secure two hundred hams from
all danger. Care should be taken to insinuate
the liquid into all the cracks, <fec., of the un-
der surface. This method is especially adapt-
ed to the preservation of hams in hot climates.
1614. To Make Carbolic Acid Paper
for Preserving Meats. Carbolic acid paper,
which is now much used for packing fresh
meats, for the purpose of preserving them
against spoiling, is made by melting 5 parts
stearine at ^, gentle heat, and then stirring in
thoroughly 2 parts carbolic acid ; after which
5 parts melted paraffine are to be added. The
whole is to be well stirred together until it
cools; after which it is melted and applied
with a brush to the paper, in quires, in the
same way as in preparing the waxed paper so
much used in Europe for wrapping various
articles. (See Nos. 1936 and 1938.)
1615. To Preserve Fish Fresh with
Sugar. A method adopted in Portugal for
preserving fish consists in cleaning and sprink-
ling sugar over the interior, keeping the fish
in a horizontal position, so that the sugar may
penetrate as much as possible. It is said that
fish prepared in this way can be kept com-
pletely fresh for a long time, the savor being
as perfect as if recently caught. Salmon thus
treated before salting and smoking possess a
much more agreeable taste ; a table- spoonful
of sugar being sufficient for a five-pound fish.
1616. Aseptin. A substance called
aseptiu has recently been introduced into
PRESERVATIVES.
167
trade by a Swedish dealer as a preservative
material for milk, meat, etc. This is said to
be simply boracic acid, or borax ; the double
aseptin consisting of two parts of borax to
one part of alum. Putrefaction is said to be
prevented by the addition of this preparation,
but mouldiness in animal substances is not.
Although a very short time has elapsed since
aseptin has been brought into notice, thousands
of pounds are now sold almost daily in Scan-
dinavia and Germany.
1617. Sportsman's Beef. Take a fine
round of beef, 4 ounces saltpetre, £ ounce all-
spice, rub it well on the beef, and let it stand
24 hours ; then rub in as much common salt
as will salt it. Lay it by 12 days, turning it
every day ; then put it into a pan, such as large
pies are baked in, with 3 or 4 pounds beef-
suet, some under, some over. Cover it with
a thick crust, and bake it for 6 hours. It will
keep for 2 months, and most excellent it is.
1618. Preservation of Meat. By re-
peatedly immersing the meat in hydrochloric
acid, subsequently drying, it is sufficiently
cured to keep for a considerable time. "When
required for use, the acid must be neutralized
by a little carbonate of soda, by which it will
be salted. The strength of the hydrochloric
acid must be determined by experiment.
1619. To Keep Dead Poultry, &c.,
Fresh. Dead birds may be preserved in a
fresh state for some time by removing the in-
testines, wiping the inside out quite dry with
a towel, and then flouring them. A piece of
blotting paper, on which one or two drops of
creosote have been placed, is now to be put
inside them, and a similarly prepared piece of
paper tied round them. They should then be
hung up in a cool dry place, free from the at-
tacks of flies or vermin, and will be found to
keep much longer than without undergoing
this process. (See No. 1614.)
1620. To Preserve or Cure Butter.
Melt the butter in well glazed earthen pans,
at a heat not exceeding 180° Fahr. in a water
bath, and keep it heated, skimming it from
time to time, until the butter becomes quite
transparent, then pour off the clear into an-
other vessel, and cool it as quickly as possible
by surrounding it with cold water or ice.
The above is the method of preserving butter
employed by the Tartars who supply the Con-
stantinople market, and in this state it may
be preserved perfectly fresh for 6 months, if
kept in a close vessel and a cool place. This
plan received the approval of Thenard, as well
as Mr. Eaton ; the latter states that butter
melted by the Tartar method, and then salted
by ours, will keep good and fine-tasted for 2
years. Any of the following methods of salt-
ing may be adopted.
1621. To Preserve Butter by Salt-
ing. Mix well together 1 ounce each salt-
petre and white sugar, and 2 ounces best salt,
all in very fine powder, then add 1 ounce of
this mixture to every pound of butter, and
thoroughly incorporate them together. The
butter thus prepared is then to be tightly
pressed into clean glazed earthenware vessels,
so as to have no vacant spaces. This butter
does not taste well before it has stood for 2 or
3 weeks, after which it acquires a rich marrow
flavor, which no other butter ever possesses.
Any good well-made fresh butter, free from
butter-milk, will succeed by this method, but
the application of it to butter clarified by the
Tartar plan, as described above, produces an
article that will keep longer good than butter
cured by any other process yet discovered.
1622. To Preserve Butter by Salt-
ing. Take fresh butter, 16 pounds; salt, 1
pound. Or : Fresh butter, 18 pounds ; salt, 1
pound; saltpetre, 1J ounces; honey or fine
brown sugar, 2 ounces. Proceed as in the
last receipt.
1623. To Preserve Butter from the
Air. The best method to preserve butter
from the air, is to fill the pots to within an
inch of the top, and to lay on it common
coarse-grained salt, to the depth of £ or £•
inch, and then to cover the pot up with any
flat article that may be convenient. The salt,
by long keeping, will run to brine, and form a
layer on the top of the butter, which will
effectually keep out the air, and may at any
time be very easily removed by turning the
pot on one side.
1624. To Preserve Butter Sweet.
To every 20 pounds of butter take 3 pounds
salt, 1 pound loaf sugar, J pound pulverized
saltpetre ; mix, and put a layer of butter
about 8 inches thick, then sprinkle on a light
covering of the above preparation alternately,
until your cask is full. Pack in air-tight casks.
Butter packed in this way will keep sweet for
2 or 3 years.
1625. To Restore Rancid Butter.
Kancid butter may be restored by melting it
in a water-bath with some fresh-burnt and
coarsely powdered animal charcoal (which "has
been thoroughly freed from dust by sifting) and
straining it through clean flannel. A better
and less troublesoute method is to well wash
the butter, first with good new milk, and next
with cold spring water. Butyric acid, on the
presence of which rancidity depends, is freely
soluble in fresh milk.
1626. To Improve Strong Butter.
This operation is extremely simple and prac-
ticable ; it consists in beating the butter in a
sufficient quantity of water, in which put 25
to 30 drops chloride of lime to 2 pounds of
butter. After having mixed it till all its parts
are in contact with the water, it may be left
in it for 1 or 2 hours, afterwards withdrawn,
and washed in fresh water. The chloride of
lime, having nothing injurious in it, can with
safety be augmented ; but it will generally be
found that 12 to 14 drops to a pound of butter
are sufficient. Butter, the taste and odor of
which were insupportable, has been sweetened
by this simple means. "We have tried the
above receipt, and find that the chloride re-
moves the rancid taste of the butter, making
it suitable for cooking, but scarcely purified
enough for table use.
1627. To Preserve Milk. The follow-
ing receipt appears in Cosmos: "To every
liter (about 1 quart) of unskimmed milk,
previously poured into a well-annealed glass
bottle, add 40 centigrammes (about 6 grains)
of bicarbonate of soda. Place the bottle
(which must be well corked) containing the
milk for about 4 hours in a water-bath, heated
to 194° Fahr. On being taken out, the bottle
is to be varnished over with tar ; and in that
state the milk contained in it will keep sound
and sweet for several weeks."
168
PRESERVA TIVES.
1628. To Keep Milk Sweet. A tea-
spoonful of fine salt or horse-radish in a pan
of milk will keep it sweet for several days.
Milk can be kept a year or more as sweet as
when taken from the cow by the following
method : Procure bottles, which must be per-
fectly clean, sweet, and dry; draw the milk
from the cow into the bottles, and as they are
filled, immediately cork them well, and fasten
the cork with pack-thread or wire. Then
spread a little straw in the bottom of a boiler,
on which place the bottles, with straw be-
tween them, until the boiler contains a suffi-
cient quantity. Fill it up with cold water,
and as soon as it begins to boil, draw the fire
and let the whole cool gradually. When
quite cold, take out the bottles and pack them
in sawdust in hampers, and stow them away
in the coolest part of the house.
1629. Preservation of Eggs. When
newly laid, eggs are almost perfectly full,
but the shell is porous, and the watery por-
tion of its contents begins to evaporate through
its pores the moment it is exposed to the air,
so that the eggs become lighter every day.
To preserve the interior of the egg in its
natural state, it is necessary to seal up the
pores of the shell air-tight. This may be
done by dipping them in melted suet, olive
oil, milk of lime, solution of gum-arabic, or
covering them with any air-proof varnish.
They are then packed in bran, oats, meal, salt,
ashes, or charcoal powder.
1630. To Preserve Eggs. Yegetable
oils, more especially linseed, simply rubbed
on to the egg, hinders any alteration for a
sufficiently long period, and presents a very
simple and efficacious method. "We believe
that two coatings of collodion should preserve
eggs better than any other method that has
yet been suggested. Or perhaps a single
coating of paraffine might be equally effective.
1631. To Distinguish. Good Eggs.
To ascertain whether an egg is good or bad,
hold it up to the light. A good egg is trans-
lucent, but a bad one is perfectly opaque ; the
difference is as easily perceived as that be-
tween a blue egg and a white one.
1632. To Preserve by Alcohol.
Strong alcoholic liquors are used to prevent
decomposition in both vegetable and animal
bodies. They penetrate the substances, com-
bine with its juices, and as the organic 'tissues
have less attraction for the spirituous mixture,
it escapes ; and the tissues themselves shrink
and harden in the same way as when salted.
Alcohol also obstructs change by seizing upon
the oxygen in the atmosphere, in virtue of its
superior attraction for that gas, thus prevent-
ing it from acting upon the substance to be
preserved.
1633. German Soup Tablets. Reinsch
gives the following receipt for making the
soup tablets so much in use in the German
army during the late war : Take 11 parts by
weight of good suet, melt it an iron pan, and
make it very hot, so as to become brown;
add, while keeping the fat stirred, 18 parts
rye meal, and continue heating and stirring so
as to make the mass brown ; add then 4 parts
dried salt and 2 parts coarsely pulverized
caraway seed. The mixture is then poured
into tin pans somewhat like those used for
making chocolate into cakes. The cakes
have the appearance of chocolate, and are
chiefly intended for the use of soldiers while
in the field. A quantity of about 1 ounce of
this preparation is sufficient to yield, when
boiled with some water, a ration of good soup,
and, in case of need, the cakes, being agreea-
ble to the taste, may be eaten raw.
1634. To Can Fresh Fruit. Procure
a sufficient number of tin cans of suitable size,
fill them quite full with the fruit, and solder
them securely. Next pierce a small pin-hole
in the top of each can, to allow the air to be
expelled ; place the cans in a boiler as deep as
the cans are high, pour boiling water into the
boiler until within £ inch of the top of the
cans; keep the water hot over a moderate
fire, but not boiling, until the air ceases to
escape from the cans, and then seal tl\e air
holes with solder before removing the cans
from the water. The cans should then be
taken out, wiped dry, and allowed to cool;
when cold, if the cans have been closed per-
fectly air-tight, the vacuum inside will cause
the top and bottom of the cans to become
concave or hollowed inwards. (See No. 1611.)
Tomatoes are also kept fresh in this manner.
1635. To Insure Success in Canning
Fruit. Select fresh fruit that is perfectly
ripe; but, at the same time, perfectly sound.
One unsound berry may injure all in contact
with it.
The boiling water poured into the boiler
will be considerably cooled by contact with
the cans ; care must be taken not to let the
water return to the boil while the cans are in
it; and yet it must become hot enough to
expel the air from the cans.
The surest way to attain the desired object
is to keep the bulb of a thermometer in the
water. A heat of 200° to 208° Fahr. wiU
answer best, but it must never exceed- the
latter degree. To ascertain when all the air
possible has been expelled, put one drop of
hot water on the air hole ; the cessation or
absence of air bubbles passing through it will
denote that the cans are ready for final sealing.
1636. ' To Can Berries. Peaches, ap-
ples, pears, plums, &c., can be kept perfectly
fresh in tin cans in the manner described in
No. 1634, and will retain their fresh flavor
almost, if not entirely, intact. Kaspberries,
strawberries, <fec., are kept in better condition
by adding | pound white sugar to each pound
of fruit, letting them come to the boil, and
then filling the cans quite full, soldering the
lid of the can immediately. The hot fruit
will, to all intents, expel the air from the can.
No water should be used with fruits, except
in cases where a little is necessary to dissolve
the sugar, as it tends to render them insipid.
Most vegetables can be kept in cans in this
way, omitting the sugar, and scalding them in
water sufficient to cover them.
1637. To Expel the Air from Cans.
Air, by heating, expands many times its own
bulk ; consequently, if you take a jar and
cover it tightly with the1 exception of a hole
the size of a pin through the cover, and set it
in boiling water, as air expands 20 times its
bulk by heating, it is obvious that ^ of the air
pases out through the pin hole in the cover ;
now drop a little sealing wax or solder over
the pin hole and you have but ?\j of the air
in the jar that was in it before heating it. Of
PRESERVATIVES.
169
course the fruit and syrup, if put into the
jar cold, displaces most of the air; but putting
cloudy and stormy days, they can be brought
into the house, and set against the side of the
it in as hot as it can be, and filling as full as room near the stove or fire-place,
possible, expels the air to all intents and pur- j 1641. To Keep Apples and Pears
poses. Cans managed in this way, when ! Fresh. Gather the fruit during a dry day,
made of sheet metal, frequently collapse from and put it at once into earthen glazed pans,
deep enough to contain two or three layers of
fruit, and each pan having a tightly-fitting
lid. If the fruit sweats, the exudation dries
on the fruit's surface, and helps to keep in
the moisture and flavor. The cover helps to do
the same, and to exclude the light. Keep the
pans in a dry, cool place, and never wipe the
outside atmospheric pressure as they cool ofl
showing that the exhaustion was complete
even more so than needed.
1638. To Keep Fruit Fresh in Jars
Use only self-sealing glass jars. Put into i
porcelain-lined preserving kettle, enough t<
fill 2 quart jars ; sprinkle on sugar, £ pound
place over a slow fire and heat through, no
boiled. While the fruit is being heated, kee]
the jars filled with moderately hot water. As
soon as the fruit is ready, empty the wate
from the jars, fill to the brim with fruit, am
seal immediately. As it cools a vacuum is
formed, which prevents bursting. In this
way every kind of fruit will retain its flavor
Sometimes a thick leathery mould forms on
the top — if so, all the better. The plan o
keeping the jars full of hot water is merely to
prevent the danger of cracking when the hot
fruit is inserted. Some prefer to set the bottles
full of cool water in a boiler of water anc
heating all together gradually ; but the other
way is much simpler and equally effective.
1639. To Can Peaches by the Cold
Process. Pare and halve the peaches
Pack them as closely as possible in a can
without any sugar. "When the can is full,
pour in sufficient pure cold water to fill al
the interstices between the peaches, and reach
the brim of the can. Let it stand long enough
for the water to soak into all the crevices —
say six hours — then pour in water to replace
what has sunk away. Seal up the can, and
all is done. Canned in this way, peaches re-
tain all their freshness and flavor. There wil]
not be enough water in them to render them
insipid. If preferred, a cold syrup could be
used instead of pure water, but the peaches
taste most natural without any sweetening.
1640. To Dry Apples, Pears and
other Fruits. Have a frame made in the
following manner: — Two strips of board 7
feet long, 2 or 2£ inches wide — two strips 3
feet long, 1£ inches wide, the whole f of an
inch thick ; nail the long strips across the
ends of the short ones, and it makes a frame
7 by 3 feet, which is a convenient size for all
Purposes. On one of the long strips, nails are
riven 3 inches apart, extending from one end
to the other. After the apples are pared,
they are quartered and cored, and with a
needle and twine, or stout thread, strung into
lengths long enough to reach twice across the
frame; the ends of the twine are then tied
together, and the strings hung on the nails
across the frame. The apples will soon dry
so that the strings can be doubled on the nails,
and fresh ones put on, or the whole of them
removed and others put in their place. As
fast as the apples become sufficiently dry they
can be taken from the strings, and the same
strings used to dry more on. If large apples
are used to dry, they can be cut in smaller
pieces. Pears and quinces, and other fruits
that can be strung, may be dried in this way.
In pleasant weather the frames can be set
out of doors against the side of the building,
or any other support, and at night, or on
fruit until required for dessert. Pears may
be kept in the same way, but require careful
and constant watching.
1642. To Keep Fruit Fresh. After
they have been allowed to lay on the shelves
in the fruit-room, and sweat, they should be
wiped dry, and packed in boxes with dry saw-
dust enough to exclude the air from them.
The saw-dust from resinous woods should not
be used. If they were packed in dry sand,
they would keep equally, and perhaps better ;
but the objection is that it is very difficult to
clean them from sand, and therefore they
always eat gritty when so kept.
1643. Preservation of Fruit in Gly-
cerine. Glycerine of purest quality has
been recommended for the preservation of
fruits; previous to eating which, the glycerine
should be removed by immersing the fruit in
water.
1644. To Restore and Improve Mus-
ty Flour. Carbonate of magnesia, 3 parts ;
flour, 760 parts. Mix and use the flour in the
usual way. This will not only greatly im-
prove bad flour, but the bread will be much
lighter, more wholesome, and keep longer
than when alum is used.
1645. To Keep Game. Newly ground
coffee, sprinkled over game, will keep it sweet
and fresh for several days. Clean the game ;
that is, wipe off the blood, cover the wounded
parts with absorbent paper, wrap up the
heads, and then sprinkle ground coffee over
and amongst the feathers or fur, as the case
may be ; pack up carefully, and the game
will be preserved fresh and sweet in the most
unfavorable weather. Game sent open and
^oose, cannot, of course, be treated in this
manner; but all game packed in boxes or
lampers may be deodorized as described. A
;ea-spoonful of coffee is enough for a brace of
jirds ; and in this proportion for more or for
.arger game.
1646. To Preserve with Creosote.
Creosote, a pungent compound existing in
iommon smoke, and which starts the tears
when the smoke enters the eyes, is a powerful
antiseptic, or preventer of putrefaction. It
s employed to preserve animal substances,
ither by washing it over them or by irnmers-
ng them in its aqueous solution. A few
Irops in a saucer, or on a piece of spongy
>aper, if placed in a larder, will effectually
[rive away insects, and make the meat keep
everal days longer than otherwise. By all
he modes in which creosote has hitherto
>een employed in preserving meat, it has ac-
uired a disagreeable taste and smell. This
may be obviated by placing a small plate con-
aining a little creosote immediately under
ach piece of meat as it hangs in the larder,
170
SOLUTIONS FOB ANATOMICAL PREPARATIONS.
and covering them both over with a cloth. A
small quantity added to brine or vinegar if
commonly employed to impart a smoky flavor
to meat and fish, and its solution in acetic acic
is used to give the flavor of Scotch whiskey
to plain spirit. The preservative effect o:
smoke-drying is partially due to creosote
which gives to the meat its peculiar smoky
taste, and partly to desiccation.
1647. To Test Creosote. A large pro-
portion of ordinary creosote is simply car-
bolic acid; but the pure creosote, which
constitutes the peculiar smell of smoke, is
quite a different substance, and may be dis-
tinguished from the false by its behavior with
collodion. A mixture of this latter with
carbolic acid gives a gelatinous precipitate
while with true creosote the collodion remains
clear. Dr. Hager gives another test : To a
weak solution of iron, a few drops of ammonia
are added, until the precipitate which origi-
nally forms is dissolved. Carbolic acid com-
municates a blue or violet tinge to the solu-
tion, while genuine creosote gives a green
color, afterward turning to brown.
1648. Charcoal as an Antiseptic. It
is well known that charcoal possesses extra-
ordinary powers in checking decomposition,
as well as in deodorizing animal substances
which have already begun to undergo change.
Meat, either before or after it is cooked, may be
preserved for a considerable time, even in warm
weather, by being placed in the centre of a
clean earthenware vessel, and closely sur-
rounded with pieces of common charcoal. To
prevent the flies from "blowing" the meat,
the vessel ought to be covered with wire-
gauze. Putrid water is immediately deprived
of its bad smell by charcoal. When meat,
fish, <fec., from intense heat or long keeping,
are likely to pass into a state of corruption, a
simple mode of keeping them sound and
healthful is by putting a few pieces of char-
coal, each labout the size of an egg, into the
pot or saucepan wherein the fish or flesh is to
be boiled.
1649. Caution About Charcoal. It
must be recollected that in all cases, to exer-
cise its highest powers as a disinfectant,
deodorizer, and bleacher, charcoal should be
both fresh-burnt and fresh-powdered, and
carefully preserved out of contact with the
air, until about to be employed. Exposed to
the 'air, it rapidly loses its valuable qualities.
1650. To Prevent Water From Pu-
trefying1. Keep it in an iron vessel, or
immerse fragments of iron in it. Distilled
water should be kept in stoppered glass
bottles.
olutions for Anatomical
Preparations. These antisep-
tic fluids are used for preserving anatomical
preparations, objects of natural history, &c.,
by immersing them therein, or by injection
into the veins and arteries, arresting putrefac-
tion, and preventing decay. Those containing
corrosive sublimate (bichloride of mercury)
are apt to render animal substances very hard.
1652. Creosote Antiseptic Solution.
Nearly saturate water with sulphurous acid,
and add a little creosote.
1653. Chloride of Tin Antiseptic So-
lution. Dissolve 4 parts chloride of tin in
100 parts water containing 3 parts muriatic
(hydrochloric) acid.
1654. Antiseptic Solution of Ammo-
nia. Mix 1 part, by weight, strong liquor of
ammonia, with 3 parts water and 3 parts rec-
tified spirit. Or : — 1 part sal ammoniac and
10 or 11 parts water; for the muscular parts of
animals. A solution of 1 part sulphate of
zinc in about 20 parts water may also be used
for the same purpose.
1655. Babington's Antiseptic Solu-
tion. 1 part of wood naphtha to 7 parts
water. "Wood naphtha undiluted serves for
injection.
1656. Burnett's Antiseptic Solution.
1 pound chloride of zinc in 1 gallon water. The
substance is immersed in this for 2 to 4 days,
and then dried in the air.
1657. Gannal's Antiseptic Mixture.
Dissolve k pound each alum and table salt,
and J pound saltpetre, in 1 gallon water.
1658. Beboulet's Antiseptic. For
pathological specimens. Dissolve 1 part
nitre (saltpetre), 2 parts alum, and 4 parts
chloride of lime in 16 to 20 parts water. To
be afterwards diluted according to circum-
stances.
1659. Thwaites' Fluid. Mix 1 ounce
spirit of wine with creosote sufficient to satu-
rate it; rub up with chalk to form a thin
paste, and mix gradually with 16 ounces water.
To this may be added an equal quantity of
water saturated with camphor.
1660. Simple Creosote Solution. Dis-
solve 1 drachm creosote in 1 drachm pyrolig-
neous acid, and mix gradually with 1 pint cold
water.
1661. Passini's Solution. For blood-
globules, nerves, and white tissues generally.
Chloride of mercury, 1 part ; chloride of so-
dium, 2 parts; glycerine, 13 parts; distilled
water, 113 parts.
1662. Preservative Fluids for Micro-
scopic Objects. Canada balsam, spirit and
water, glycerine solution of gelatine, saturated
solutions of alum, chloride of zinc, and chloride
of calcium, are all used to preserve microscopic
objects.
1 663. Solution for Preserving1 Feath-
ers. Dissolve 16 grains strychnine in 1 pint
rectified spirit.
1664. Corrosive Sublimate Antiseptic
Solution. Dissolve 1 part corrosive subli-
mate (bichloride of mercury), and 3 parts
chloride of sodium (table salt), in 100 parts
water containing 2 parts muriatic (hydro-
hloric) acid.
1665. G-oadby's Antiseptic Solutions.
2 ounces bay salt, 1 ounce alum, 1 grain
Bichloride of mercury (corrosive sublimate),
and 1 pint of water. This is good for ordi-
nary purposes. But for tender tissues, or
where there is a tendency to mouldiuess,
double the proportions of corrosive sublimate
and of water. For subjects containing car-
jonate of lime, double the proportion of bay
salt, and omit the alum.
Or : — i pound bay salt, 10 grains arsenious
acid, and 1 pint water ; adding 1 grain corro-
sive sublimate when there is any tendency to
softening in the parts of the subject. These
are excellent antiseptic solutions.
TO PRESERVE WOOD.
171
1666. Embalming. Mix together 5
pounds dry sulphate of alumina, 1 quart warm
water, and 100 grains arsenious acid. Inject
3 or 4 quarts of this mixture into all the ves-
sels of the human body. This applies as well
to all animals, birds, fishes, &c. This process
supersedes the old and revolting mode, and
has been introduced into the great anatomical
schools of Paris.
1667. Preparation for Stuffing Birds
and Animals. Camphor, 1 ounce ; corrosive
sublimate, 1 ounce ; alum, -£• ounce ; sulphur,
1 ounce ; all finely powdered and mixed.
1668. Antiseptic for Preserving
Birds and Animals. The simplest means
of preserving anatomical and pathological
preparations is the use of the following solu-
tion : Saturated solution of alum, 100 parts ;
saltpetre, 2 parts. The article to be preserved
is immersed in the solution, when it becomes
decolorized ; but in a few days the color re-
turns, when it is taken out of the solution,
and kept in a saturated solution of alum and
water only.
1669. Becceur's Arsenical Soap.
Camphor, 5 drachms; arsenic, 4 ounces;
white soap, 4 ounces ; carbonate of potash, 12
ounces; air-slaked lime, 4 ounces; make a
stiff paste with a little water. Used for pre-
paring the skins of birds and other small
animals.
1 670. Becoeur's Fluid Arsenical Soap.
This is prepared as follows : — Cut 1 pound
soap into thin slices, put it with a little
water into a pot upon the fire, stirring fre-
quently with a wooden spoon until dissolved;
add 6 ounces carbonate of potassa and 2
ounces chalk. Then take it off the fire, and
add 1 pound arsenious acid, stirring it in
thoroughly ; lastly, pound 3 ounces camphor
in a mortar with a little alcohol, and incorpo-
rate it with the rest of the ingredients. This
makes a composition of a consistence of paste.
When required for use, dissolve 2 ounces in a
pint of alcohol, and apply with a brush.
1671. Laurent's Antiseptic Soap.
Place i ounce powdered soap in a bottle with
2 drachms each of arsenite of potassa, sul-
phate of alumina, and pulverized camphor;
pour upon them 6 ounces alcohol, and allow
them to stand 24 hours. "When thoroughly
combined, add 3 drops oil of thyme, and cork
the bottle carefolly.
1672. Beconi's Arsenical Soap. Ar-
senious acid, 32 ounces; carbonate of potassa,
12 ounces; camphor, 5 ounces; white soap,
32 ounces ; powdered lime, 8 ounces. Eeduce
each to a powder, and mix. Used as a pre-
servative for specimens of natural history
against the attacks of insects.
1673. Carbolic Acid as a Preserva-
tive. Reference has been made in some of
the scientific journals to experiments upon
carbolic acid as a means of preserving objects
of natural history, and the anticipation has
been indulged in by many that this powerful
agent may be able to replace all the ordinary
methods of taxidermy. This, however, is a
very great mistake, since it can be used to
a small extent only in the preparation of en-
tire bodies of animals that are to be preserved
dry — because the process of desiccation will
inevitably proceed until the original form of
the animal is entirely lost. For many purposes,
however, carbolic acid has proved of much value
as a preservative, and its uses are increasing.
Thus, diluted with about 50 times its bulk of
water, it forms a capital substitute for alcohol
in preserving fish and other objects; and, in
fact, the larger fish, such as rays, sharks, etc.,
can be kept much better by its aid than even
by means of alcohol. Added in small quan-
tity to very weak spirit, it very materially
increases its preservative strength.
1674. Carbolic Acid as a Temporary
Preservative. Although carbolic acid can-
not be used as a substitute for the usual
methods in setting up birds and mammals, it
can be employed to very great advantage in
keeping them fresh until they can be properly
skinned. An experiment of this kind was
once made by Dr. Totten, of New York, who
prepared a solution of 1 drachm of carbolic
acid, Ik ounces each of glycerine and dilute
alcohol, and injected it into the mouth, the
rectum, and under the skin of a large cormo-
rant. The bird was kept on board ship until
it reached New York, a period of about two
months after its capture, and was then sent to
a taxidermist, who found it to be in perfect
condition, and who was able to mount it as
satisfactorily as if it had been but just killed.
1675. Von Vetter's Process for the
Preservation of Anatomical Specimens.
Add to 7 parts of glycerine at 22° Baume,
1 part raw brown sugar and k part nitre, till
a slight deposit is formed at the bottom of the
vessel. The portion required to be preserved
is then immersed (dried or not dried) and left
in the mixture for a time proportional to its
dimensions; a hand, for example, should re-
main eight days in the liquid; when it is
taken out it is as stiff as a piece of wood, but
if it be suspended in a dry and warm place
the muscles and articulation recover their
suppleness.
1676. Preserving Insects. A good
way to render insects durable is to perforate
their bodies once or twice with a long pin
dipped in a strong solution of corrosive subli-
mate. If you have cases full, clean the in-
sects and cases as thoroughly as possible,
paint the inside of the cases over with a brush
dipped into a solution of the sublimate, and
after putting a few pieces of camphor at the
bottom of the case, fix the lid on, and paste a
strip of paper over the crevices.
To Preserve Wood. The
following receipts for preserving timber
from decay have been obtained fi'om various
sources, and are the results of careful experi-
ment by scientific experts.
1678. To Prevent the Splitting of
Logs and Planks. Logs and planks split
at the ends because the exposed surface dries
faster than the inside. Saturate muriatic acid
with lime, and apply like whitewash to the
ends. The chloride of calcium formed attracts
moisture from the air and prevents the split-
ting. Tobacconists' signs, and other wooden
images, have usually a hole bored through
their centre, from top to bottom ; this in a
great measure prevents the outer surface from
cracking, by allowing the wood to dry and
shrink more uniformly.
172
MIXTURES FOR FREEZING.
1679. To Preserve Timber from
Decay and Dry-Rot. The best way to
preserve timber exposed to the action of the
weather is to force into the pores of well-sea-
soned wood as much carbolic acid, or creosote,
as possible. This soon resinifies, and most
effectually prevents the timber from dry-rot
and decay. On a large scale, as for railway
sleepers, expensive appliances are needed ;
but for barns or outbuildings it may be applied
to considerable advantage by the use of a
paint brush.
1680. Solution to Preserve Wood.
With every 25 gallons of water required, mix
5 pounds chloride of zinc. Wood steeped in
this solution will effectually resist dry-rot.
1681. To Kyanize Wood or Cordage.
Immerse the wood or cordage in a solution of
50 or 60 parts water and 1 part corrosive
sublimate. This preserves it from decay, and
renders wood tough and more difficult to split.
1682. To Preserve and Harden
Wood. Wood steeped in a solution of cop-
peras becomes harder and more indestructible.
1683. German Receipt for Coating
Wood with a Substance as Hard as
Stone. Melt together 40 parts chalk, 50
resin, and 4 linseed oil; to this should be
added 1 part oxide of copper, and afterwards
1 part sulphuric acid. This last ingredient
must be added carefully. The mixture, while
hot, is applied with a brush, and forms, when
dry, a varnish as hard as stone. This is an
excellent application to protect posts, tubs,
or other wooden articles which are set in the
earth.
1684. To Preserve Wood Under Wa-
ter. Wood impregnated with creosote oil
has been found to resist effectually the ravages
of the teredo worm; this worm being the
cause of decay by honey-combing the entire
substance of the wood. In Germany chloride
of zinc is used for this purpose, the timber be-
ing placed in boilers, partly exhausted of
air, and the vapor of chlorine thus driven in-
to it. These remedies are recommended by
a committee of practical experts, appointed by
the Academy of Sciences in Holland to ascer-
tain the best means for preserving timber un-
der water.
1685. Preservation of Wood. Ar-
mand Muller has instituted some interesting
experiments upon this subject, and arrives at
the conclusion that the phosphate of baryta,
formed by the mutual decomposition of phos-
phate of soda and chloride of barium, in the
pores of the wood, is one of the best preservative
agents available to chemists. Soak the wood
5 days in a 7 per cent, solution of phosphate
of soda, and after drying, suspend in a 13 per
cent solution of chloride of barium for 7
days. It is believed that wood thus prepared
will withstand the action of moisture better
than with any other preparation. The chief
obstacle to the use of such chemicals is in
their cost.
1686. To Petrify Wooden Objects.
Take equal quantities of gem-salt, rock-alum,
white vinegar, chalk and pebbles, powdered.
Mix all these ingredients; ebullition will ensue.
After it has ceased, throw some wooden ob-
jects into this liquid, and let them soak for 4
or 5 days, at the end of which time they will
be transformed into petrifactions.
Mixtures for Freezing;
WltllOUt Ice. In the fof-
lowmg table, the water should not be warmer
than 30° Fahrenheit.
Mixtures.
Nitrate of Ammonia, 1
Water 1
Muriate of Ammonia. . 5
Nitrate of Potash 5
Water 16
Muriate of Ammonia.. 5
Nitrate of Potash 5
Sulphate of Soda 8
Water ie
Sulphate of Soda
Diluted Nitric Acid. . . .
Nitrate of Ammonia..
Carbonate of Soda. . . ,
Water . . .
Phosphate of Soda..
Dilute Nitric Acid...
Sulphate of Soda
Hydrochloric Acid
Sulphate of Soda 5
Diluted Sulphuric Acid, 4
Sulphate of Soda 6
Muriate of Ammonia. . 4
Nitrate of Potash 2
Diluted Nitric Acid.... 4
Sulphate of Soda
Nitrate of Ammonia. . .
Diluted Nitric Acid.... 4
Fahrenheit Degrees
Thermometer of Cold
Sinks from Produced
• 50° to 4° 46°
>°to 10° 40°
50° to 4° 46*
J 50° to— 3°... 53*
I 60° to —7° 57'
| 60° to— 12° 62*
| 50° toO° 60°
| 60° to 3° 47°
50° to —10° 60*
60° to —14° 64*
1688.
Table of Freezing Mixtures
with Snow.
Fahr
ihtlt Degrees
Mixtures. Thermometer of Cold
Sinks from Produced
Snow 3 parts. ) ~v , „„„ „.
Diluted Sulphuric Acid, 2 " J *"
Snow 8
Muriatic Acid 5
Snow 7
Dilute Nitric Acid 4
Snow 4
Muriate of Lime 5
Snow 2
Crys'd Muriate of Lime, 3
Snow 3
Potash 4
32° to —27°.
32° to —30°.
32" to —40°.
\ 32° to— 60° 82*
| 32° to— 51° 83°
1 689. Freezing Mixtures with Pound-
ed Ice or Snow. The following mixtures
reduce the temperature down to a certain
degree of cold, irrespective of the tempera-
ture of the materials at mixing.
Fahr. Ther-
Snow, or Pounded Ice 2 parts. ]
Muriate of Soda 1 " ]
Snow, or Pounded Ice 6
Muriate of Soda 2
Muriate of Ammonia. 1
Snow, or Pounded Ice, 24
Muriate of Soda 10
Muriate of Ammonia 6
Nitrate of Potash 5
Snow, or Pounded Ice 12
Muriate of Soda 6
Nitrate of Ammonia 5
Snow, or Pounded Ice 2
Common Table Salt, or Kock Salt. . 1
1690. Metallic Freezing Mixture.
An .interesting experiment may be made by
melting together 59 parts tin, 103 i lead, and
183 bismuth. If this be finely rasped or
powdered, and introduced into 108 parts, by
weight, of quicksilver, a thermometer im-
mersed in the mixture will sink to nearly 3°
Fahr. ; and water placed in a thin test-tube,
+ .,
lo
to — 12°
to —25*
t
DISINFECTANTS.
173
and allowed to remain for a few minutes in
this bath, will be completely frozen.
1691. How to Keep Ice in Summer.
No refrigerator or ice-box will prevent, or even
retard the melting of the ice, which does noi
combine the following conditions: It mus
have double sides, bottom, and lid, with the
space between the two casings filled with
some non-conducting substance, in order to
exclude the external temperature ; and the
inner lid or cover should be practically, if noi
hermetically, air-tight, in furtherance of the
same result. If external air enters, it wil
bring its own temperature with it. There
should be also a drainage-pipe at the bottom
to carry off, instantaneously, every drop 01
water formed by the melting of the ice, and
this pipe should either be fitted with a trap or
curved in such a manner as to prevent the
cold air from escaping. It is even more indis-
pensable to carry off every drop of the water
than it is to exclude the air — a view not
generally entertained by consumers of the
article, but which, according to experiments
made, seems to be fully demonstrated. Thus,
on exposing a piece of ice weighing, say 25
pounds, to the air, at a temperature of 75°, but
so placed that it is perfectly drained, it will be
found to have scarcely disappeared at the end
of 24 hours. Wrap the same piece in 3 or 4
thicknesses of blanket or flannel, and place it
in a small tub exposed to the same tempera-
ture, and as the water filters through the
blanket, the ice will stand in its own water, and
will be all dissolved in 5 or 6 hours. Wrap
the same piece of ice carefully in a blanket,
and place it on a grating, or on four crossed
sticks, so that no water can accumulate under-
neath, and at the end of 3 or even 4 days it
will not have entirely melted.
Disinfectants are substances
which absorb, neutralize or destroy
putrescent effluvia and miasmata, and thus
remove the causes of infection. The princi-
pal disinfectants are chlorine, the chlorides
(hypochlorites) of lime and soda, chloride of
zinc, charcoal, carbolic acid, the fumes of
nitric, nitrous, and sulphurous acids, and ven-
tilation. The clothing, bedding, &c., of pa-
tients laboring under contagious diseases,
may be effectually disinfected by exposing to
a temperature of about that of boiling water.
Neither the texture nor color of textile fabrics
is injured evert by a heat of 250° Fahr. It
is a practice at some of the poorhouses to
bake the clothes of the paupers who have the
itch, or are infested with vermin. Quicklime
rapidly absorbs carbonic acid, sulphuretted
hydrogen, and several other noxious gases,
and is therefore commonly used as a wash for
the walls of buildings. Acetic acid, camphor,
fragrant pastils, cascarilla, and other similar
substances, are frequently burnt or volatilized
by heat, for the purpose of disguising un-
pleasant odors. The chlorides as well as the
sulphates of iron and lime have the property
of rapidly destroying noxious . effluvia. A
quantity of either of these sulphates thrown
into a cesspool, for instance, will in a few
hours remove the fetid smell.
1693. Metropolitan Disinfecting
Fluid. The Board of Health of the city of
New York have recommended a disinfecting
fluid composed of sesquichloride of iron,
chloride of manganese, chlorine, and car-
bolic acid. The sesquichloride of iron has
been found by experiment to deodorize more
effectually than chloride of lime, sulphate of
zinc, or other disinfectants. It is therefore
recommended as an important constituent of
any disinfectant. Sesquichloride of iron is
prepared by dissolving the hydrated sesquiox-
ide of iron in muriatic acid ; to this is added
10 per cent, of carbolic acid. This forms the
fluid in a concentrated form, and is largely
diluted with water at the time of using. All
night scavengers are compelled by the Board
of Health of New York to use it. Its effects
are compound. The iron checks fermenta-
tion, and the chlorine acts as an oxidizing
agent. Its carbolic acid also aids in arresting
decomposition and fermentation, and the
whole combination, therefore, by its chemical
action, decomposes the sulphuretted hy-
drogen.
1694. To Disinfect Stables and
Slaughter-Houses. Dr. Letherby, Health
officer of the city of London, says in a recent
report on the subject, that the best disinfect-
ant for stables and slaughter-houses is a
mixed chloride and hypochlprite of zinc, and
it has the advantage of mixing freely with
the liquid matters of the slaughter-house, and
not tainting the meat with any unpleasant
odors ; and it is also applicable to the disin-
fection of houses in place of chloride of lime,
which it much resembles in its chemical na-
ture and mode of action.
1695. Burnett's Disinfecting Fluid.
A solution of chloride of zinc, made by dis-
solving zinc in commercial muriatic acid to
saturation, and known as Sir William Bur-
nett's Disinfecting Fluid, has been found
most useful as a purifying agent, and in re-
moving and destroying contagion. In puri-
fying sick rooms or crowded places the solu-
tion should be moistened by means of a piece
of flannel cloth, about 3 or 4 feet square,
attached to a long rod and waved through the
air for 10 minutes at a time; in addition to
which the floor should be mopped or sprinkled
over with the same dilute solution, if neces-
sary, several times a day, and a small quantity
put into the close-stools and bed-pans. The
water-closets should also be cleansed with it,
and 2 gallons occasionally thrown down each.
When floors and woodwork are washed with
;he solution, the use of soap or soda should
avoided immediately before or after its ap-
plication; and whitewashing should not be
applied to any part recently washed or
sprinkled with it.
1696. To Purify a Sick Chamber.
The nitrous acid vapor, so invaluable as a dis-
infectant in contagious fevers, is obtained by
decomposing nitre by means of heated sulphur-
"c acid, in the following manner : Put \ ounce
sulphuric acid in a crucible glass or china cup
and warm it over a lamp or in heated sand,
adding to it from time to time a little nitre.
Several of these vessels must be placed in the
sick chamber and in the neighboring apart- *
ments and passages, at a distance of 20 feet
or more from each other, according to the
174,
DISINFECTANTS.
height of the ceiling and the virulence of the j and makes it drinkahle. A tea-spoonful to a
contagion. As an evidence of the value of I hogshead is generally enough, but if added
this method of disinfection it may be men-
tioned that Dr. Carmichael Smyth, of London,
by whom it was originally practiced, received
from Parliament a premium of £5,000 for his
discovery.
1697. Hyponitrous Acid as a Disin-
fectant. A special commission was ap-
pointed by the Academy of Sciences at Paris,
to study the different means of disinfecting
those localities which, during the siege, had
been appropriated to persons afflicted with
contagious diseases. Its report furnishes
some useful guides to the selection and the
application of disinfectants. It was agreed
that the very first place among destructive
agents which can attack and destroy infec-
tious germs, should be assigned to hyponi-
trous acid. Great precaution should be exer-
cised, however, by those employing the very
dangerous nitrous vapors.
1698. Carbolic Acid as
ant. The French
1697) also reported that carbolic acid is much
more easily applied, is less dangerous and ex-
pensive than hyponitrous acid, and seems to
a Disinfect-
commission (see No.
offer guarantees of quite equal
founded on experimental evidence.
efficacy,
It is best
employed by mixing with sand or sawdust in
the proportion of 1 part by weight of acid,
and 3 parts of the inert material. The mix-
ture is placed in earthen pots. Carbolic acid,
diluted with 25 to 30 times its weight of
water, has been found useful in sprinkling
daily the floors and the bedding of sick cham-
bers. It has been stated by M. Devergie,
that water containing only the 4 ^ 0 part of
its weight of carbolic acid sufficed for the
disinfection of a dead-house during the hot-
test weather, when it contained from 6 to 7
bodies.
1699. Collins' Disinfecting Powder.
Mix 2 parts dry chloride of lime with 1 of
burnt alum. To be set in shallow dishes in
rooms, &c., with or without the addition of
Ellerman's Deodorizing Fluid.
water.
1700.
This consists chiefly of perchlorides and chlor-
ides of iron and manganese. In a report ad-
dressed to the Metropolitan Board of "Works
of London in 1859, Drs. Hoffman and Prank-
land stated that the perchloride of iron was
the cheapest and most efficient deodorizer that
could be applied to sewage; £ gallon deodor-
ized 7500 gallons. 1 bushel lime, or 3 pounds
chloride of lime, would do the same.
1701. Condy's Solution. A saturated
solution of permanganate of potassa is one
of the most efficient and elegant of all disin-
fectants. A tea- spoonful in a soup-plate of
water, exposed in a room, quickly removes
any offensive smell; when the pink color
disappears more must be added. It has been
used to remove the smell of bilge- water and
guano from ships. A word as to economy :
One ounce of the crystallized salt costs about
as much as a pound of the crude, which is
just as good for deodorizing purposes. The
crude gives a greenish solution, which, even
while cold, but more rapidly and completely
upon boiling, passes into the deep red so
characteristic of the permanganate, and is
fit for use. It speedily cleanses foul water
until the water acquires a permanent faint
tinge, we are certain that injurious organic
matter has been destroyed. Then, as Condy
suggests, if a piece of clean stick be put into
the liquid, or if a little tea or coffee be added,
the pink color will disappear, and the water
will be fit for use. The very small amount of
potassa remaining in the solution could not
possibly do any harm, as it would not amount
to ]^0 part of a grain to the gallon.
1702. Siret's Compound. Sulphate
of iron, 20 pounds; sulphate of zinc, 3£
pounds; wood or peat charcoal, 1 pound ;
sulphate of lime, 26£ pounds ; mix and form
into balls. To be placed in cesspools, &c.,
to deodorize them. M. Siret has subsequently
modified this compound thus: Sulphate of
iron, 100 parts; sulphate of zinc, 50; tan or
oak-bark powder, 40 ; tar, 5 ; and oil, 5 parts.
1703. Ledoyen's Solution. This is a
solution of nitrate of lead, and contains
about 20 ounces of the salt in a gallon. The
specific gravity should be 1.40." A similar
compound may be made by mixing 13£ ounces
litharge with 6 pints water, and adding 12
ounces nitric acid at 1.38 specific gravity
(or 8 ounces at 1.50) and digesting at a gen-
tle heat till the solution is complete.
1704. Chloride of Lime as a Disin-
fectant. It is a great purifier. 1 pound
requires 3 gallons of water; use the clear
solution. To purify rooms, sprinkle on the
floor, and, if needful, on the bed-linen. In-
fected clothes should be dipped in it and
wrung out, just before they are washed. It
purifies night commodes, water-closets, &c.
It may also be used in its pure state. For
butcher stalls, fish markets, slaughter houses,
sinks, and wherever there are offensive putrid
gases, sprinkle it about, and in a few days the
smell will pass away. If a cat, rat, or mouse,
dies about the house, and sends forth an offen-
sive gas, place some chloride of lime in an open
vessel near the place where the nuisance is,
and it will soon purify the atmosphere. The
presence of chloride of lime in a room causes
iron or steel to rust rapidly. Articles of that
material should therefore be removed during
the use of this disinfectant.
1705. Precautions to be Observed
Before Entering a Sick Boom, particu-
larly where there is Fever.
Never enter fasting; if it is inconvenient
to take refreshment of the ordinary kind, ob-
tain a glass of wine and a cracker.
Do not stand between the patient and the
door, if possible. Avoid sitting on or touch-
ing the bed-clothes as much as possible, and
do not inhale the patient's breath. The hands
should always be washed in clean water, if
the patient has fever, before leaving the room
to touch other people or things.
After visiting a fever patient, <fcc., change
the dress, if possible. As soon as the fever
is over, and the patient is convalescent,
the dress which has been used by the nurse or
attendant should be destroyed if there are
no means of fumigation at hand, or it must
be boiled in water to which carbolic acid has
been added. The same treatment must be
applied to the bed-clothes, <fcc., which have
been used.
BLEACHING.
175
1706. Onions as a Disinfectant.
Onions placed in the room where there is
small-pox will blister, and decompose with
great rapidity ; besides this, they will prevenl
the spread of the disease. As a disinfectanl
they have no equal, when properly used ; bul
keep them out of the stomach.
1707. To Prevent Infection. Let
communication with the sick by actual con-
tact be as far as possible avoided. Let the
patient be lightly covered with the bed-clothes
his chamber freed from all unnecessary articles
of furniture, and kept perfectly clean; the
sheets and body linens frequently changed
and removed from the sick room, as well as
all substances producing, or likely to produce,
any smell ; and above all things let the cham-
ber and the adjoining apartments and passages
be completely and freely ventilated by open-
ing opposite doors and windows ; for although
contagion may be carried by the air, it be-
comes inert when, instead of being concen-
trated, it is sufficiently diffused.
1708. Special Preservative Against
Infection. In a lecture delivered in the
Royal Institution, Professor Tyndall proved,
by a series of interesting experiments, that the
surest filter in a contagious atmosphere is
cotton wool. " If a physician," said the Pro-
fessor, "wishes to holdback from the lungs
of his patient, or from his own, the germs by
which contagious disease is said to be propa-
fated, he will employ a cotton wool respirator,
n the crowded dwellings of the London poor,
where the isolation of the sick is difficult, if
not impossible, the noxious air around the
patient may by this simple means be restored
to practical purity. Thus filtered, attendants
may breathe the air unharmed, for it is ex-
ceedingly probable that the germs which
lodge in th'e air-passages, and which, at their
leisure, can work their way across the mucous
membrane, are those which sow in the body
epidemic disease. If this be so, such disease
may be warded off by filters of cotton wool."
1709. To Diffuse a Fragrant Odor.
A few drops of oil of sandal wood dropped on
a hot shovel, will diffuse a most agreeable
balsamic perfume through the room.
1710. Simple Mode of Purifying
Water. A table-spoonful of pulverized alum
sprinkled into a hogshead of water (the water
stirred at the same time) will, after a few
hours, by precipitating to the bottom the im-
pure particles, so purify it that it will be
found to possess nearly all the freshness and
clearness of the finest spring- water. A pail-
ful, containing 4 gallons, may be purified by a
single tea-spoonful of the alum.
1711. To Test the Impurity of the
Atmosphere. A simple method of ascer-
taining the presence of impurity (carbonic
acid) in the atmosphere, is to nearly fill a glass
tumbler with lime-water, and to place it in
any convenient position, as on the mantel-
piece of a room. The rapidity with which a
pellicle forms on its surface, or the water be-
comes cloudy, corresponds to the amount of
the carbonic acid present in the atmosphere
that surrounds it. A little moist carbonate of
lead put on a plate or saucer, and exposed in
the same way, will turn black, should any
sulphuretted hydrogen be contained in the air.
This is a delicate test for that destructive gas.
1712. To Purify Water in a Cistern.
2 ounces of permanganate of potassa thrown
in a cistern will render the foulest water sweet
and pure. (See No. 1701.)
1713. To Purify Dirty Water. Since,
in dry seasons, any water may be of high
value, at least for cattle drinking, M. Meunier
advises to place, in a large-sized cask, a false
bottom perforated with some holes ; and to '
put on that bottom, first, clean pebbles, next,
well washed sand, then a layer of coarsely
granulated charcoal, and over all this a piece
of canvas. The water, even that standing in
shallow ditches after a shower of rain, may bo
poured into this filter, and thus become avail-
able for cattle-drinking, though it may not be
quite clear.
TD leaching. Tinder this head are
" * included general receipts for bleaching
and decolorizing. The methods employed
for special purposes, such as bleaching fabrics
for dyeing, removing stains, &c., will be found
in their proper places by reference to the in-
dex.
171 5. To Bleach Cotton Pure White.
Boil for 3 hours in water containing 1 gill
to the gallon of either caustic potassa or caus-
tic soda ; wash well from the lye, then lay
the yarn or fabric to steep for 4 or 5 hours in
cold water containing 1 pint of bleaching
liquor (see No. 104) to the gallon; then lift
out and steep for an hour in a sour of 1 wine-
glassful of sulphuric acid to the gallon of
water; lift, and wash well; then boil for 2
hours in a caustic lye, half the strength of the
first ; wash from this, and steep again for 4
hours in the bleaching liquor ; wash from this
and steep again for 1 hour in a clean sour,
made in the same manner as the first; wash
well from this, and dry. A little smalt blue
is put into the last washing water to clear
the white.
1716. To Bleach Wool. The first kind
of bleaching to which wool is subjected, is to
free it from grease. This operation is called
scouring. In manufactories, it is generally
performed by an ammoniacal lye, formed of
5 measures of river water and 1 of stale urine ;
the wool is immersed for about 20 minutes in
a bath of this mixture heated to about 130°
Fahr; it is then taken out, suffered to drain,
and rinsed in running water. This manipula-
tion softens the wool, and gives it the first
degree of whiteness. It is then repeated a
second, and even a third time ; after which
the wool is fit to be employed. In some
places, scouring is performed with water
slightly impregnated with soap ; and indeed,
for valuable articles, this process is preferable;
but it is too expensive for articles of less
value. Bisulphide of carbon and benzine
aave been employed in cleansing wool. The
'at may be saved by distilling off the solvent,
which may be used over and over again.
(See No. 439.) Sulphurous acid gas unites
very easily with water ; and in this combina-
tion it may be employed for bleaching wool
and silk.
1717. Sulphuration. The process by
which silk, cotton, woolen, and straw goods,
176
BLEACHING.
&c., are bleached or decolored by exposure t
the fumes of burning sulphur. This is effectei
in a close chamber of a size proportioned to th
scale on which the operation is conducted
and supplied with only just sufficient air t(
keep up the slow combustion of the sulphur
the fumes of which are sulphurous acid
(See Nos. 360 and 364.)
1718. To Prepare Sulphurous Acic
for Bleaching. Sulphurous acid is used
either as gas or in solution in water, which
dissolves 50 times its volume of the gas. In
the former case sulphur is burned in a close
room in which the stuffs (moistened) ar<
hung; for small articles a barrel with a lid
answers well. 2 exposures, of 24 hours each
suffice for wool. (See No. 360.) To get
solution of sulphurous acid, the cheapest anc
best plan is to heat in a glass retort 12 ounces
sulphuric acid and 2 ounces sulphur. The
gas, which comes off quietly, is collected in
a large glass bottle partially filled with water
or, better, a series of bottles so connected
together that the gas must pass successively
through the water contained in each.
1719. A New Wash for Wool and
Silk. Instead of using the fumes of sul-
phur, M. Frezon proposes the following mix-
ture: 4 pounds oxalic acid, 4 pounds table
salt, 200 quarts water. The goods are laid in
this mixture for an hour. They are then gen-
erally well bleached, and only require to be
thoroughly rinsed and washed. For bleach-
ing straw it is best to soak the goods in caus-
tic soda and afterwards to make use of chlor-
ide of lime or Javelle water. (See Index.)
The excess of chlorine is afterwards to be re-
moved by hyposulphite of soda, called anti-
chlor.
1720. To Bleach Straw Bonnets.
Get a deep box, air-tight, if possible ; place
at the bottom a stone, on the stone a flat
piece of iron red hot, or a pan of charcoal,
on which scatter powdered brimstone;
close the lid, and let the bonnet remain
a night. There should be hooks on the
box, on which to hang the bonnets. (See last
receipt.)
1721. To Bleach Sponge. Sponge
may be bleached almost snow-white by repe-
titions of the following process : Soak it in
diluted muriatic acid 10 or 12 hours, then wash
it with water and immerse in a solution of
hyposulphate of soda to which a small quan-
tity of diluted muriatic acid has been added.
"Wash and dry it.
1722. Blanched Sponge. Soak the
sponges for several days in cold water, renew-
ing the water and squeezing the sponges occa-
sionally. Then wash them in warm water,
and place them in cold water to which a little
muriatic acid has been added. Next day take
them out and wash them thoroughly in soft
water; then immerse them in an aqueous
sulphurous acid (specific gravity 1.034) for a
week. They are afterwards washed in plenty
of water, squeezed, and allowed to dry in the
air.
1723. To Bleach Lac. Dissolve the
lac in a boiling lye of pearlash or caustic pot-
ash, filter it and pass chlorine through the
solution until all the lac is precipitated. Col-
lect the precipitate, wash well in hot water,
and finally twist into sticks, and throw them
into cold water to harden. Lac thus purified
is used to make pale varnishes and the more
delicate tints of colored sealing-wax. Shel-
lac bleached by this method is liable to stain
furniture inlaid with brass. The following
process is free from this objection, and has
the additional advantage of being much
cheaper:
1724. To Bleach Shellac with Ani-
mal Charcoal Any quantity of yellow shel-
lac, previously broken in small pieces, is con-
veyed into a flask, alcohol of .830 specific grav-
ity poured upon it, and the whole heated on
a stove, or, in the summer, in the suri, until
the shellac is dissolved; upon this so much
coarsely powdered animal charcoal is added
to the solution that the whole forms a thin
paste ; the flask is closed, not quite air-tight,
and left so for some time exposed to the sun;
and in 8 to 14 days a small sample is filtered,
sufficient to ascertain whether it has ac-
quired a light yellowish brown color, and
whether it yields a clear, pure polish, on light
colored woods. If this be the case, it is fil-
tered through coarse blotting paper, for which
purpose it is best to employ a tin funnel with
double sides, similar to those employed in
filtering spirituous solutions of soaps, opodel-
doc, &c. The portion which first passes
through the filter may be preserved separate-
ly, and used as a ground or first polish.
Then some more spirit is poured over the
charcoal upon the filter, and the solution
used as a last coating. The solution of shel-
lac purified by animal charcoal has a brown
yellow color, but it is perfectly clear and
transparent; when diluted with alcohol, the
color is so slight that it may be used in this
state for polishing perfectly white wood, such
as maple, pine, &c., without the wood acquir-
"ng the least tint of yellow.
1725. To Bleach Gutta Percha. Dis-
solve 1 part gutta percha in 20 parts hot ben-
zole, shake the solution with -fa part freshly
calcined plaster, and set aside, with occasional
agitation, for 2 days. The clear pale brownish-
•ellow liquid is then decanted into another
essel containing double its bulk of alcohol
brtius (see No. 1439), when the gutta percha
will be precipitated in the form of a brilliantly
white tenacious mass, which is pounded to-
gether in a mortar, and rolled into cylindrical
iticks.
1726. Bleaching Woolen Bags. These
i,re most effectually bleached by the applica-
ion of sulphurous acid. Of course, in many
nstances, the color of the rags, supposing the
ame to be dyed or printed goods, will be also
lestroyed. Chlorine cannot be used for this
jurpose, because it causes woolen and silk
abrics to become yellow, and impairs the
trength of the fibre, by entering into chemi-
al combination with the wool, silk, and other
imilar substances of animal origin; as, for
n stance, sponge, animal gut, isinglass, <fec.,
11 of which, if requiring bleaching, are
leached by sulphurous 'acid.
1727. New Method of Bleaching
Teathers. This process is an entirely new-
y-discovered one, whereby the feathers of
istriches and other birds may be bleached,
iven if these feathers are naturally black or
ark gray colored. The feathers are placed
or from 3 to 4 hours in a tepid dilute solution
VINEGAR.
of bichromate of potassa, to which, cautiously,
some nitric acid has been added. After this
lapse of time the feathers will be found to
have assumed a greenish hue, owing to the
oxide of chromium precipitated on the sub-
stance ; in order to remove this, the feathers
are placed in a dilute solution of sulphurous
acid in water, whereby the feathers become
perfectly white and bleached. Care is to be
taken that the solution of bichromate be not
made too strong, and especially that not too
much nitric acid be used, which would cause
an irremovable yellow color.
1728. Table Showing; the Number of
Parts of a Weak Bleaching Liquor, Re-
quired to be added to 1 Part Bleaching
Liquor of 6° Twaddell, to Produce a
Liquor of a given Strength. According
to Mr. Crum, the strength of liquor for bleach-
ing cotton should be less than 1° Twaddell ;
the following table enables an operator to in-
crease the strength of a weak bleaching liquor
with a great degree of accuracy. The left
hand column gives the strength of the weak
kquor, expressed in -fa parts of 1°. At the
head of the other columns stands the degree
of strength required, and under these headings
will be found the number of parts of weak
liquor required to be added to 1 part of a
liquor of 6° Twaddell, to produce the required
strength of the mixture. (See No. 68.)
Strength of
Sample.
Strength Required.
A°
A°
A°
^
Water.
8 parts
11 parts
17 parts
23 "
23 parts
35 "
A
11 "
17 "
35 "
71 "
&
13| "
23 "
71 "
A
17 "
35 "
A
23 "
71 "
A
35 "
A
71 "
1729. Properties of Charcoal. This
article, when fresh, possesses the property of
taking lime and other saline matter from
syrups and other aqueous solutions, especially
organic ones, at the same time that it decolors
them. As a decolorizer and deodorizer, ani-
mal charcoal (prepared from bones) is vastly
superior to vegetable charcoal. Charcoal
should be fresh burnt and fresh powdered and
preserved from contact with the air. Unless
these precautions be observed it rapidly loses
its valuable -qualities. (See No. 1752.)
1730. Aluminized Charcoal. This is
recommended by Dr. Stenhouse as a cheap
and very efficient decolorizing agent. Dis-
solve in water 54 parts of the sulphate of
alumina of commerce, and mix with 92J parts
finely powdered wood charcoal. When the
charcoal is saturated, evaporate to«dryness,
and heat to redness in covered Hessian cruci-
bles till the water and acid are dissipated.
The charcoal contains just 7 5 per cent, of
anhydrous alumina.
1731. Charcoal from Coal-Tar. Heat
gently in an iron pot till it melts, 1 pound
coal-tar pitch. Add 2 pounds fluid coal-tar,
and mix. Stir in 7 pounds hydrate of lime in
very fine powder. The thick mass is now
roasted, stirring all the time till it is reduced
to a fine powder. It is then ignited in a
covered crucible till all the vegetable matter
is carbonized. The charcoal, when cold, is
digested with dilute hydrochloric acid, and
finally washed with water in a filter, and
dried. Dr. Stenhouse recommends this as an
admirable form for decolorization. For such
liquids as decoction of logwood it is four times
as efficient as animal charcoal.
Vlliegar. Yinegar is dilute acetic
acid more or less mixed with gum,
sugar, and other vegetable matter. It can be
made from any liquid which is susceptible of
the vinous fermentation. In this country it
is made chiefly from cider and alcoholic li-
quors; in England, from malt liquors and
molasses; in wine growing countries, from
inferior or damaged wine. The cultivation of
the vine is gradually gaining importance in
this country, and it seems more than probable
that, at no distant time, vinegar will be made
here largely from wine.
1733. To Make Vinegar by the Ger-
man, or Quick Method. Many methods
have been invented to produce vinegar ; but
that known as the "German, or quick method,"
has superseded all others, and is now in gen-
eral use in the United States. By this pro-
cess (which is very simple) tune and labor
are both greatly abridged, and a very fine ar-
ticle is produced. The method will be found
embodied in the five following receipts :
1734. How to Make a Vinegar Gen-
erator. The construction of a vinegar gene-
rator is very simple. A is a tub, 8 feet in
height, 3 feet in diameter at the bottom, and
3i feet in diameter at the top, with a cover,
E, of which one part, G, is movable, in order
to permit the liquid to be poured in when ne-
cessary. B is a shelf or false bottom perforated
with a number of holes £ of an inch in dia-
meter, placed about 8 inches from the top of
the generator, at which place a stout hoop
must be nailed to support it. When this false
bottom is placed in the generator, it should
be packed carefully on the sides with cotton
batting, so as to prevent the liquid from es-
caping at any place except through the holes.
The shelf or false bottom has also four J inch
holes, in which are inserted 4 open reed tubes
as air vents, each having its ends projecting
above and below the shelf, the upper ends
projecting at least li inches below the top
cover, E, and the other ends penetrating the
contents of the generator. 0 C is a horizontal
row of holes at about 18 inches from the bot-
tom of the generator, equidistant, and -J an
inch in diameter, bored in about every other
stave, and in a vertical or slanting direction
from the outside downward inside. There is
also a hole for the insertion of the thermome-
ter, 6 inches below the false top ; this hole
should slant from the outside, downward in-
side. The holes are bored in this manner to
prevent the vinegar from running out. It is
essential to the success of the process that a
current of air should pass through the tub.
178
VINEGAE.
In order to establish this circulation, the
above holes are made, and the air enters by
them, and passes out through the tubes in the
false bottom above. Some parties insert a
perforated false bottom about 2 inches below
the slanting ventila-
tion-holes, to support
the shavings, leaving
the portion of the tub
below free ; others
E refer a similar false
ottom about 2 inch-
es above the holes, in
order to prevent the
shavings from coming
in contact with the
holes and obstructing
the ventilation. D is a stop-cock, or faucet,
6 inches from the bottom of the generator,
the discharging capacity of which must be
controlled by the size of the generator. Never
draw off the vinegar below this faucet.
1735. How to Pack a Vinegar Gene-
rator. Having made the generator, the next
part of the process of making vinegar consists
in packing or charging it ; this is done in the
following manner: Take pieces of beech
board about 18 inches in length (maple or
basswood boards will do, but not as well as
beech), and plane thick, heavy shavings from
the edge ; the shavings should curl and roll
up, or they must be rolled up and tied. Next
cut clean corn-cobs into pieces 1 i or 2 inches
long. The shavings and corn-cobs must be
thoroughly soaked in water ; or, what is still
better, boiled in vinegar. Fill the tub half
full with the corn-cobs, and let the cobs re-
main in the tub just as they are thrown there,
without further arrangement. Then fill up
the balance of the generator with the beech
shavings and arrange them so that those
which touch the upper false bottom are more
strongly pressed than the rest, as the degree
of pressure should increase as you pack from
the bottom to the top of the generator. The
generator being filled, the false bottom must
be fitted in and rest level upon the shavings,
and great care must be taken not to have the
air-tubes stopped up, or the cobs packed too
solid in the vicinity of the slanting holes.
The shavings or cobs may be loosened at the
thermometer and ventilating-holes, by means
of a stick thrust therein. The generator may
I also be entirely packed with beech shavings
I or entirely with cobs ; the latter, however, are
inferior, as they soon rot and become worth-
less. Beech chips are preferred to shavings
by some vinegar manufacturers.
1736. Mode of Acetifying Shavings.
The next step in the process of manufactur-
ing vinegar consists in acetifying the shavings
and cobs; and this is accomplished in the fol-
lowing manner: Preserre a temperature of
between 75° and 85° Fahr., and pour over the
shavings and cobs, every hour, a mixture of 2
gallons vinegar and J gallon common whiskey
(this liquid should first be heated, to hasten
fermentation), until there are 10 gallons in the
generator above the faucet, but not more.
Muspratt recommends a standard liquor, both
for the acetificatiou of the shavings and for
generating of vinegar. It consists of GO gal-
lons 60 per cent, whiskey, and 37 gallons beer
or malt wort. A mixture of 5 gallons of the
above mixtures with 40 or 50 of weak vinegar,
acetifies still quicker than the standard mix-
ture used alone. Draw off from the generator
every hour 2 gallons, and add it again at the
top; continue this until the fermentation
commences ; this usually begins at the top of
the generator in the course of 4 or 5 days.
The contact of the air with the minutely di-
vided liquid promotes the acetification, which
consists essentially in the oxidation of the
alcohol. As the oxygen is absorbed, the tem-
perature of the liquor rises to 100° or 105°,
and when the thermometer indicates that
temperature when placed through the opening
in the cover, the generator is ready, and in
proper condition for the manufacturer. Pay
special attention to the fermentation, for that
is the principal point to be observed. It is
scarcely necessary to say that the vinegar
used for acetifying the shavings should be
pure, or at all events free from the mineral
acids. It is well known that essential oils, or
a mere trace of wood- vinegar, arrest acetifi-
cation; consequently the vinegar must also
be free from pyroligneous acid. After the
acetification occurs, proceed as follows :
1737. Mode of Manufacturing Vine-
gar. Keep the vinegar room at a temperature
of from 75° to 85° Fahr., and maintain the
temperature of the generators at 95° to 100°.
Then make up a mixture or wash composed of
the following ingredients : 3 gallons common
whiskey; 4 gallons manufactured vinegar; 33
gallons pure water. Muspratt uses 15 or 20
gallons of his standard liquor (see last receipt),
diluted with GO gallons soft water. The water,
if not clear, must be filtered through charcoal.
Draw off' every hour 4 gallons of vinegar from
each generator, and pour in at the top 4 gallons
of the above wash, with an additional quart for
waste in manufacturing ; and pour the vinegar
into another generator as soon as it is drawn.
Vinegar is thus made by being passed only
once or twice through the shavings, according
to the quality and degree of strength required.
Keep a large tank to 'hold the vinegar when
made, aiad put k gallon of molasses into it
every day until you get a bed 2 or 3 inches
thick. The molasses will improve the vine-
gar and give it a fine color. This is the
quickest process which has yet been obtained
for manufacturing large quantities, and the
vinegar made in this way finds ready sale.
VINEGAR.
179
1 738. Useful Hints to Those Making
Vinegar by the Quick Method. The
success of the whole process of making vine-
gar by the German, or quick method, depends
almost entirely upon the free circulation of
air throughout the generator. It sometimes
happens that the vinegar, when it comes from
the generator, is not perfectly clear and trans-
parent; to remedy this, some manufacturers
" use two false bottoms to each generator, and
have a bed of white sand, 15 inches deep,
upon the lower one. The sand will have to
be packed in before the chips are, as follows :
First cover the false bottom with flannel, to
prevent the sand from coming through the
holes, then put in a layer of sand 5 inches
deep, cover this with two thicknesses of flan-
nel, and then another layer of sand; repeat
this again, and then pack in the chips as al-
ready directed. This will produce an article
of a fine color, and will pass for a fine wine-
vinegar if colored. Persons who are skeptical
about this way of making vinegar may test it
at a trifling expense on a small scale by
experimenting with a keg arranged on the
same principle as the generators. Those who
desire to go into the business extensively, can
have a series of generators. They may be
arranged one above the other, and connected
from floor to floor by gutta percha tubes, and
thus vinegar may be made by passing once
through three generators, instead of two or
three times through one generator.
1739. To Make Vinegar Quickly.
Take a cask or hogshead with the head out,
and a faucet near the bottom ; fill it with beech
shavings prepared as in No. 1735 ; or, instead
of shavings, the casks may be filled with corn-
cobs or beech chips ; over these lay a coffee
sack, and cover it with fine shavings, to keep
the heat in. Next throw some good vinegar
on the shavings, and let it soak in for a few
hours ; then draw it off through the faucet
and throw it on to the shavings again, repeat-
ing this until the shavings are thoroughly
soured, and adding each time 1 quart of high
wiues to the vinegar before throwing it back
on the shavings ; this addition prevents the
vinegar from becoming flat by the absorption
of the acid by the shavings. Then mix 1 gal-
lon 90 per cent, high wines, and 1 quart mo-
lasses, with 14 gallons river water ; pour it
upon the shavings ; draw it oft' and put it on
the shavings again 2 or 3 times a day until
sour. By usin» several casks, sufficient vine-
gar may be made at a time to put into barrels.
Sour ale, or the rinsings of sugar hogsheads,
may be poured on the shavings and turned
into good vinegar in this way. It is better
for the fluid to be weak at first, adding the
molasses or other material being converted in-
to vinegar, by degrees during the successive
drawings. By following this plan, the
strength of the vinegar may be gradually
increased to almost any degree.
1740. To Make Good Cider Vinegar.
Take 10 gallons apple juice fresh from the
press, and suffer it to ferment fully, which
may be in about 2 weeks, or sooner if the
•weather is warm ; and then add 8 gallons like
juice, new, for producing a second fermenta-
tion ; in 2 weeks more add another like new
quantity, for producing a third fermentation.
This third fermentation is material. Now
stop the bunghole with an empty bottle, with
the neck downward, and expose it to the sun
for some time. When the vinegar is come,
draw off one-half into a vinegar cask, and set
it in a cool place above ground, for use when
clear. "With the other half in the first cask,
proceed to make more vinegar in the same
•way. Thus one cask is to make in, the other
to use from. When making the vinegar, let
there be a moderate degree of heat, and free
access of external air. The process is hasten-
ed by adding to the cider, when you have it,
a quantity of the mother of vinegar, as it is
called — a whitish, ropy coagulum, of a muci-
laginous appearance, which is formed in the
vinegar and acts as a ferment. The strength
of vinegar depends on the amount of sugar or
starchy matter to be utimately converted into
acetic acid.
1741. To Make Alcohol Vinegar.
The following is the German method of ma-
king acetic acid, and is excellent and simple :
In a bell glass or tall glass case, arrange
shelves a few inches apart, one above another,
on which place small flat dishes of earthen-
ware or wood ; then fill these dishes with alco-
hol, and suspend over each, in small trays or
capsules, a portion of the black powder of
platina (see Platinum-Black) ; hang strips of
porous paper in the case, with their bottom
edges immersed in the spirit to promote evap-
oration. Set the apparatus in a light place at
a temperature of from 68° to 86° Fahr., for
which purpose the sunshine will be found
convenient. In a short time the formation of
vinegar will commence, and the condensed
acid vapors will be seen trickling down the
sides of the glass, and collecting at the bot-
tom, whence it may be removed once or twice
a day. "We shall find that during this process,
produced by the mutual action of the platina
and the vapor of alcohol, there will be an in-
crease of temperature, which will continue till
all the oxygen contained in the air enclosed in
the case is consumed, when the acetification
will stop ; the case must then be opened for a
short time, to admit of a fresh supply of air, ,
when the operation will commence again.
1742. Artus' Process for the Manu-
facture of Vinegar. Dr. Artus has dis-
covered a process for making vinegar from
alcohol, which he says has proved entirely
satisfactory. There is a very general com-
plaint that the oxidation of spirits of wine in
the vinegar process is far from complete, and
that the results are not equal either in quality
or quantity to what ought to be expected from
the materials employed. His plan is as fol- j
lows : Take h ounce dry bichloride of pla-
tinum, and dissolve it in 5 pounds alcohol;
with this liquid moisten 3 pounds wood char-
coal broken in pieces the size of a hazel-nut ;
heat these in a covered crucible, and after-
wards put them in the bottom of a vinegar
vat. Here the platinum in its finely divided
spongy state absorbs and condenses large
quantities of oxygen from the air, by which
alcohol is rapidly oxidized. When the char-
coal has been in use for 5 weeks it should be
again heated in a covered crucible.
1743. To Improve Alcohol Vinegar.
Vinegar made from pure alcohol and water
does not possess the flavor of wine or cider
vinegar, and is therefore inferior to them for
180
VIXE&AE.
table use ; but a little acetic ether added to it
renders it agreeable. Eaw spirits containing
some fusel oil produce a more pleasantly
flavored vinegar than refined spirits ; hence
a few drops of fusel oil added to rectified
spirits, in making the wash for vinegar, im-
proves its aroma. A little oil of cloves or
butyric ether added in the same manner im-
proves its flavor. A very small quantity of
cider vinegar gives a large quantity of whiskey
vinegar a pleasant flavor. An infusion of
chicory is sometimes added to high wine vine-
gar, to give it the color of cider vinegar.
1 744. To Keep Up a Constant Supply
of Cheap Vinegar. A supply of vinegar
can be kept constantly on hand by retailers in
the following manner: Before a barrel is quite
sold out, fill up the barrel with 1 gallon mo-
lasses to every 11 gallons soft water. This
mixture will become good vinegar in about 3
weeks — and can be treated in its turn in the
same way. "VThere less than a barrel a week
is used, 3 barrels thus treated and used in ro-
tation, will be sufficient to keep up a perpetual
supply. If the barrels stand on end, there
must be a hole made in the top, protected
with gauze to keep out, insects. If standing
on the side, the bunghole must be left open
and similarly protected.
1745. To Make Vinegar in Three
Weeks. Mix in the following proportions :
1 quart molasses, 1 pint yeast to 3 gallons
warm rain water. Put the mixture into a keg
or barrel with the bunghole open, but protect-
ed with gauze against insects.
1746. ' Distilled Vinegar. Put 1 gal-
lon vinegar in a retort ; and distill by a sand-
bath, 7 pints. This should produce a vinegar
of specific gravity 1.0065. The use of a lead
or pewter worm must be avoided, as it renders
the product cloudy and poisonous.
1747. To Make Vinegar from Sugar.
An excellent domestic vinegar may be made
by dissolving 1J pounds sugar to each gallon
water used, with J pint good yeast. If the
heat of the mixture be maintained at 70° to
80° Fahr., acetification will set in, so that in 2 or
3 days it may be racked off from the sediment
into a cask ; it then receives the addition of 1
ounce cream of tartar, and 1 ounce crushed
raisins; when completely free from sweet
taste, it should be bottled and corked closely.
The juice of currants, gooseberries, and many
other fruits, and of beets, may be thus made
into vinegar, either alone or in combination
with syrup. Vinegar made in this manner
keeps better than that made from malt liquors.
1748. Tests for Vinegar. The methods
of testing the strength of vinegar are given
under the head of Acetimetry. The following
tests of purity will be found useful:
Paper written on or smeared with pure vine-
far, is not charred when strongly warmed
efore the fire; if it is, the vinegar contains
fully 2 per cent, of sulphuric acid.
Dip a small porcelain capsule or china cup
into a solution of i ounce sugar in 15 ounces
•water, and then heat the capsule to a tempera-
ture of 212° Fahr. A drop of vinegar let
fall on it will not be materially discolored if
pure; it will turn a dark brown or black, if
the vinegar contains only 3^5 part of sulphuric
acid; the presence of roW of sulphuric acid
will cause the spot to turn an olive green ; a
less proportion will produce a pale green color.
Chloride of barium testifies the presence of
the same acid by forming a heavy white pre-
cipitate; each grain of this precipitate, after
being dried and 'gently ignited, represents
.344 grain of dry sulphuric acid; and if the
precipitate from 1000 grains of vinegar exceed
2£ grains, it contains an undue proportion of
sulphuric acid.
If a solution of nitrate of silver gives a
cloudy white precipitate, hydrochloric acid is
present.
If, after the addition of 2 or 3 grains carbon-
ate of potash, and evaporation of the sample
to dryness, the residuum deflagrates when
ignited, the sample contains nitric acid.
1749. To Strengthen Weak Vinegar.
If in pickles, turn it off, heat it scalding hot,
put it in the pickles, and when lukewarm,
put in a small piece of alum the size of a
filbert, and a brown paper 4 inches square, wet
with molasses. If it does not grow sharp in
2 weeks it is past recovery, and must be
thrown away. Or, freeze it and remove the
ice which forms on the surface. The water
of the vinegar alone freezes, leaving the acetic
acid in solution in the remaining water.
1750. To Determine the Strength of
Vinegar. The hydrometer is not to be
much relied on in testing the strength of vine-
gar. The simplest test is to take a fragment
of fine marble, weigh it and suspend it by a
thread in a known measure of vinegar until all
action ceases and the liquid has no longer a
sour taste. Take out the marble, wash and
dry it, and note the loss of weight it has
sustained. & of this is real (hydrated) acetic
acid. An ounce of good vinegar should sat-
urate from 30 to 32 grains of pure and dry
carbonate of soda; such vinegar contains
about 5 per cent, of anhydrous (absolute)
acetic acid. Vinegar above 30 per cent, of
real acid will dissolve the essential oils and
camphor. The strength of vinegar may also
be ascertained in the same way as any other
acid (see Nos. 69 and 78); but vinegar manu-
facturers designate the strength of their pro-
ducts by the number of grains of pure car-
bonate of potassa required to neutralize 1
fluid ounce of the vinegar tested. Thus, if 1
fluid ounce of a sample of vinegar requires 16
grains of carbonate of potassa to neutralize
it, the vinegar is said to be of a strength of
16 grains.
1751. To Deprive Vinegar and Other
Vegetable Liquids of their Color. To
take away the color of vinegar, 2 pints red
wine vinegar, cold, are mixed with 1£ ounces
bone-charcoal (prepared as directed in the
next receipt) in a glass vessel. Shake this
mixture from time to time, and in 2 or 3
days the color completely disappears. "When
the process is to be performed in the large
way, throw the charcoal into a cask of vine-
gar, which must be stirred from time to time.
The highest colored red wine-s treated in the
same manner become perfectly limpid. Ivory-
black possesses the same property as bone-
black. Filtering through charcoal will pro-
duce the same result.
1752. To Prepare Animal Charcoal
to Decolorize Vinegar and other Vege-
table Liquids. Fill a crucible with the
most compact parts of ox and sheep bones,
SAUCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES.
181
lute the cover, carefully leaving only a small
opening at the top, place the crucible on a
forge fire, and heat it gradually till red ; when
the flame from the oily and gelatinous parts
has ceased, diminish the opening and sud-
denly raise the fire ; when cold, reduce the
charcoal to fine powder. (See No. 1729.)
Sauces, Catsups, and Pic-
kles. The following receipts are
given to illustrate the methods employed in
preparing a number of well known condi-
ments. This department of our work might
have been greatly extended, but it was not
thought advisable to occupy space with par-
ticulars that may be found in any of the pop-
ular treatises on cookery:
1754. Soy. The pure article is imported
from China, but an excellent substitute may
be prepared by boiling 1 gallon of the seeds
of Dolichos soja (if this cannot be had, haricot
or kidney beans will answer) in sufficient
water until soft; add 1 gallon bruised wheat,
and keep in a warm place for 24 hours ; then
add 1 gallon salt, and 2 gallons water, and
keep for 2 or 3 months in a tightly bunged
stone jar; after which, press out the liquor.
1755. Epicurean Sauce. Indian soy,
2 ounces ; walnut catsup, mushroom catsup,
each 8 ounces ; port wine, 2 ounces ; bruised
white pepper, | ounce; shallots, 3 ounces;
cayenne, J ounce ; cloves, £ ounce. Macerate
for L4 days in a warm place, strain, and add
white wine vinegar to make up a pint.
1 756. Kitchener's Sauce Superlative.
Port wine, and mushroom catsup, of each 1
pint; walnut or other pickle liquor, £ pint;
pounded anchovies, 4 ounces ; fresh lemon-
peel cut thin, sliced shallots, and scraped
horseradish, of each 1 ounce ; allspice and
black pepper, of each £ ounce; cayenne, I
drachm; curry powder, 3 drachms; celery
seed, 1 drachm; put them in to a wide-mouth-
ed bottle, stop it close, shake daily for 2
weeks, and strain ; % pint soy may be added.
1757. To Make Quin Sauce. Mix
together 2 gallons walnut catsup, 2 gallons
mushroom catsup, 1 gallon soy, 1 pound gar-
lic, and 6 pounds sprats. Boil for 15 minutes,
strain and bottle.
1758. To Make Harvey's Sauce.
Take 48 parts Quin sauce, 16 parts soy, and 1
part cayenne.
1759. Worcestershire Sauce. Mix to-
gether 1£ gallons white wine vinegar, 1 gal-
lon walnut catsup, 1 gallon mushroom catsup,
\ gallon Madeira wine, ^ gallon Canton soy,
2£ pounds moist sugar, 19 ounces salt, 3
ounces powdered capsicum, Is ounces each of
pimento and coriander, 1£ ounces chutney, i
ounce each of cloves, mace and cinnamon,
and 6| drachms ass.afo3tida dissolved in 1 pint
brandy 20 above proof. Boil 2 pounds hog's
liver for 12 hours in 1 gallon of water, adding
water as required to keep up the quantity;
then mix the boiled liver thoroughly with the
water ; strain it through a coarse sieve. Add
this to the sauce.
1760. Indian Curry. The true Indian
curry is said to be thus made: Coriander
seed, 6 drachms ; turmeric 5 scruples ; fresh
ginger, 4 5 drachms; cummin seeds, 18 grains;
black pepper, 54 grains; poppy seed, 94 grains ;
garlic, 2 heads ; cinnamon, 1 scruple ; carda-
mom, 5 seeds ; 8 cloves, 1 or 2 chillies ; half a
cocoa-nut grated; all but the last to be ground
on a stone.
1761. Italian Tamara. Coriander seed,
cloves, and cinnamon, of each 8 ounces;
anise and fennel seeds, of each 4 pounds ; mix.
1762. Bengal Chutney. Chillies, ij
pounds ; unripe mangoes (or apples), 1 pound ;
red tamarinds, 2 pounds ; sugar candy, 1
pound ; fresh ginger root, l| pounds ; garlic, £
to Ik pounds; sultana raisins, 1$ pounds; fine
salt, 1 pound; and 5 bottles of the best vinegar;
soak the chillies for 1 hour in the vinegar,
then grind all with a stone and muller to a
paste.
1763. Kitchener's Essence of Soup
Herbs. Take of lemon thyme, winter savory,
sweet marjoram, and sweet basil, of each 1
ounce; grated lemon peel and eschalots, of
each i ounce ; bruised celery seed, J ounce ;
proof spirit, 1 pint. Digest for 10 to 14 days.
A superior flavoring essence for soups, gravies,
seasonings, &c.
1764. Essence of Savory Spices.
Take of ground black pepper, 4 ounces ; pow-
dered turmeric, 3 drachms ; ground coriander
seeds, 1£ drachms; oil of pimento, 1-J fluid
drachms ; oil of nutmeg, oil of cloves, oil of
cassia, and oil of caraway, of each i drachm ;
alcohol, 1 pint. Digest with agitation for 2
weeks.
1765. Tincture of Savory Spices.
Take of black pepper, 1£ ounces ; allspice, 5
drachms ; nutmegs and burnt sugar, of each
J ounce ; ground cloves, cassia, coriander and
caraway seeds, of each 1 drachm; proof spirit,
1 pint. Digest with agitation for 2 weeks ;
press and filter. Used for flavoring. When
made with alcohol and double the above
weight of spices it makes an essence of savory
spices.
1766. Cautions in the Preparation of
Catsups, &c. In preparing catsups, pickles,
<fec., vessels of earthenware, stoneware or
well-tinned copper pans should alone be
used, as salt, vegetable juices and vinegar rap-
idly coiTode copper, and render the results
poisonous. Nothing in the shape of copper,
lead, or pewter should be allowed to come in
contact with them at any time. Even a plated
copper spoon left in a bottle of catsup for some
time will render its contents poisonous. Un-
pleasant and even dangerous attacks of vom-
iting, colic, and diarrhoaa have resulted from
neglect of these precautions.
1767. Mushroom Catsup. Lay alter-
nate layers of mushrooms and salt in an
earthenware pan, using "4 pound of salt to
each 2 quarts of mushrooms. After 6 hours,
break them into pieces, and set in a cool place
for 3 days, stirring every morning. Next
strain, and to every quart of the juice add k
ounce each allspice and ginger, h tea-spoonful
powdered mace, and 1 tea-spoonful cayenne
pepper. Put it into a closely covered stone
jar, set in a pan of boiling water, and boil
briskly for 5 hours ; then empty it into a por-
celain lined kettle and simmer gently for k
hour; let it stand over night. in a cool place
to settle. Decant the clear liquor and cork
tightly in bottles filled to the mouth. It is
182
SAUCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES.
better to seal the corks and tie down with
bladder, and to use small bottles, as it soon
spoils when exposed to the air.
1768. Tomato Catsup. Take 1 peck
Tipe tomatoes, cut a slit in them, and put
them into a porcelain lined kettle. Boil until
the pulp is dissolved ; strain and press, first
through a, cullender, then through a hair-sieve;
then boil for 5 hours with 1 ounce salt, 1 ounce
mace, 1 table- spoonful black pepper, 1 tea-
spoonful, cayenne, 1 table-spoonful powdered
cloves, 7 of ground mustard, and 1 of celery
seed ; this last tied in a thin muslin bag ; stir
frequently, especially during the last hour;
turn it into a stone jar to cool; and, when
cold, add 1 pint strong vinegar; take out the
bag of celery seed, and bottle. Seal the corks,
and keep in a dark cool place.
1769. Tomato Catsup. Cut £ bushel
tomatoes to pieces, and boil them in their own
liquor until soft ; strain and press through a
hair-sieve to separate the skins and seeds;
boil down to a thick pulp, stirring all the
time ; then add G ounces salt, 6 drachms all-
spice, 1 ounce 5£ drachms yellow mustard, 3
ounces black pepper, 6 drachms cloves, 3
drachms mace, 2 drachms cayenne pep-
per, and 1 gallon vinegar. The spices must
all be ground fine before using them. Let
the whole boil up twice, and, when cool,
bottle.
1770. Walnut Catsup. Take young,
tender walnuts, prick them in several places,
bruise them with a wooden billet, and place
in a jar with sufficient water to cover them,
adding a handful of salt for every 25 walnuts ;
stir them twice a day for 14 days ; then drain
off the liquor into a saucepan. Cover the
walnuts with boiling vinegar, crush to a pulp
and strain through a cullender into the liquor
in the saucepan. Add, for every 2 quarts, 2
ounces each black pepper and ginger, 1 ounce
each cloves and nutmeg pounded fine, a pinch
of cayenne, a shallot minced fine, and a
thimbleful of celery seed tied in a muslin
bag. Boil all together for an hour, and, when
cold, bottle. In the above manner an ex-
cellent catsup may be made from butternuts.
1771. Tarragon Vinegar. Put fresh
tarragon leaves into a stone jar, and pour on
them a sufficient quantity of the best wine
vinegar to cover them. Set the jar in a warm
place for 14 days ; then strain through a jelly
bag. In the same way may be made cider-
flower, basil, green mini, and Burnct vinegars.
1772. Cress and Celery Vinegars are
made with a ounce of the bruised seed to a
quart of vinegar.
1773. Horseradish Vinegar, with 3
ounces of the scraped root, 1 ounce of minced
shallots, 1 drachm cayenne, to 1 quart vinegar.
1774. Garlic Vinegar is made with 2
ounces minced garlic to 1 quart wine vinegar.
1775. Shallot Vinegar in the same
manner, using challots instead of garlic.
1776. Chili Vinegar, with 50 chillies
(peppers) cut or bruised (or £ ounce cayenne
pepper), to 1 pint of the best vinegar ; digest
for 14 days, strain, and keep in half-pint
bottles.
, 1777. Camp Vinegars. Take 12
chopped anchovies, 2 cloves of garlic minced,
1 drachm cayenne, 2 ounces soy, 4 ounces
walnut catsup, and 1 pint best vinegar ; digest
for 1 month, and strain. Or : Vinegar, 1
quart ; walnut catsup, 1 pint ; mushroom cat-
iup, 3 table-spoonfuls ; garlic, 4 heads ;
cayenne, 4 ounce; soy, 2 table-spoonfuls;
port wine, 2 glasses; 3 anchovies, and 1
table-spoonful of salt ; put them into a bottle,
shake daily for a month, and decant.
1778. Curry Vinegar. Infuse 3 ounces
urry powder in 1 quart vinegar, near the fire,
for 3 days.
1779. Superfine Raspberry Vine-
gar. Pour 1 quart vinegar on 1 quart rasp-
berries ; the next day press and strain the juice
upon another quart of the fruit, and repeat
this every day for 6 days. Then add 1 pound
white sugar to every pint of the vinegar, and
put it into a jar, which must be placed in a
pot of boiling water to be scalded through.
1780. Fine Raspberry Vinegar.
Bruised ripe raspberries and white wine vine-
gar, of each 3 pints ; macerate 24 hours, press,
strain, and to each pint add white sugar, 1
pound ; boil, skim, cool, and to each pint add
brandy, 2 ounces. In a similar way may be
made Strau-berry Vinegar and Cherry Vinegar.
1781. Raspberry Vinegar. Macerate
2 pounds fresh raspberries with 1 pint best
vinegar for 14 days, and strain: or, to 1 quart
of juice add 2 ounces strong acetic acid or
enough to render it sufficiently acid.
1 782. Raspberry Vinegar from Rasp-
berry Syrup. Mix together 2 pints rasp-
berry syrup and •£ fluid ounce acetic acid.
Added to iced water according to taste, this
is one of the most delightful of refrigerant
drinks.
1783. Eschalot Wine. Bruised shallots,
3 ounces ; sherry wine, 1 pint ; infuse for 10
days; 1 ounce scraped horseradish and 1
drachm thin lemon-peel may be added. Dr.
Kitchener says this is the most elegant prepa-
ration of the onion tribe. "Wines of several
herbs may be made in the same proportion as
the vinegars.
1784. Table Mustard. Mix 8 spoon-
fuls of flour of mustard with 2 of salt and 9
of water. Mix to a smooth paste, add 6
spoonfuls more water, and mix.
1785. Le Normand's Superior Table
Mustard. Take of best flour of mustard, 2
pounds; fresh . parsley, chervil, celery, and
tarragon, of each $ ounce ; garlic, 1 cloVe; 12
salt anchovies (all well chopped); grind well
together, add of salt, 1 ounce ; grape juice or
sugar sufficient to sweeten, with sufficient
water to form the mass into a thinuish paste
by trituration in a mortar. "When put into
pots, a red-hot poker is to be thrust into each,
and a little vinegar afterwards poured upon
the surface.
1786. Soyer's Table Mustard. Steep
mustard seed in twice its bulk of distilled
vinegar for 8 days; grind to a paste, and put
it into pots, thrusting a red-hot poker into
each.
1787. Moutarde a 1'Estragon. Gently
dry 1 pound black mustard seed : then pow-
der it fine, and mix it with 2 ounces salt, and
sufficient tarragon vinegar to make a paste.
In a similar way are prepared several other
mustards, by employing vinegars flavored
with the respective substances, or walnut or
mushroom catsup, or the liquors of the richer
pickles, in proportions to suit the taste.
SAUCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES.
183
1788. Moutarde Superbe. Take o
salt, \h pounds; scraped horseradish, 1 pound
garlic, 2 cloves; boiling vinegar, 2 gallons
macerate in a covered vessel for 24 hours
strain, and add of flour of mustard a sufficien
quantity.
1789. To Make Cayenne Pepper
This is prepared from the pods of the Chili or
bird-pepper. The ripe pods, dried in the sun
are placed in layers with wheaten flour in a
dish or tray, and exposed in a stove room o
half cold oven until perfectly dry ; they are
then removed from the flour and ground tc
fine powder ; to every ounce of this powder
15 ounces wheaten flour are added, and made
into a dough with a little tepid water and a
tea-spoonful of yeast ; after fermentation ib
well set up, the dough is cut into small pieces
and baked in a slow oven until perfectly hare
and brittle. It is then beaten or ground to
powder, and forms cayenne pepper.
1790. Pickles. In making pickles, use
none but the best cider vinegar. Never keep
pickles in glazed earthenware, but in glass or
hard stoneware, and well covered with vine-
gar. They should be examined every month
or two, and soft pieces removed. If there if
much tendency to soften, it is advisable to
strain off the vinegar, add to each gallon a
cupful of sugar, boil it, and return it to the
pickle jar while hot. The occasional addition
of a little sugar keeps pickles good, and im-
proves them. Spices in pickles should be used
whole, slightly bruised, but preferably not
ground ; if ground, they should be tied up in
thin muslin bags. Most pickles, if well kept,
improve with age, by the vinegar losing its
raw taste, and the flavor of the spices, &c.,
improving and blending. (See No. 1766.)
1791. Spiced Vinegar for Pickles
Generally. Braise in a mortar 2 ounces
black pepper, 1 ounce ginger, £ ounce allspice,
and 1 ounce salt. If a hotter pickle is desired,
add 5 drachm cayenne, or a few capsicums.
For walnuts add also 1 ounce shallots. Put
these in a stone jar, with a quart of vinegar,
and cover them with a bladder wetted with
the pickle, and over this a piece of leather.
Set the jar near the fire for 3 days, shaking it
3 times a day ; then pour it on the walnuts or
other vegetables. To save time, it is usual to
simmer the -vinegar gently with the spices,
which is best done in an enameled sauce-
pan. For walnuts it is used hot; for cabbage,
<fcc., cold.
1792. Pickled Cauliflower. These
should bo sliced, and salted for 2 or 3 days,
then drained, and spread upon a dry cloth be-
fore the fire for 24 hours ; after which they
are put into a jar, and covered with spiced
vinegar. Dr. Kitchener says that if vegeta-
bles are put into cold salt and water (J
pound salt to 1 quart water) and gradually
heated to a boiling heat, it answers the same
purpose as letting them lie some days in salt.
1793. Pickled Cucumbers. Gherkins.
Small cucumbers, but not too young, are
wiped clean with a dry cloth, put into a jar,
and boiling vinegar, with a handful of salt,
poured on them. Boil up the vinegar every
3 days, and pour it on them till they become
green ; then add ginger and pepper, arid tie
them up close for use. Or cover them with
salt and water (as above) in a stone jar, cover
this and set them on the hearth before the
fire for 2 or 3 days, till they turn yellow; then
put away the water, and cover them with hot
vinegar, set them near the fire, and keep them
hot for 8 or 10 days, till they become green ;
then pour off the vinegar, cover them with
hot spiced vinegar, and keep them close.
Haifa dozen peppers improve ajar of cucum-
bers, as the heat of the former is absorbed by
the latter.
1794. Pickled Onions. Let them lie
in strong salt and water for 2 weeks; then
take them out and peel them; put them in
fresh salt and water for 2 weeks more ; take
them out, wash them clean, and let them lie
in fresh water all night. Next day place them
on a cloth to drain ; then put them in a jar,
and pour over them hot spiced vinegar. If
you wish them of a nice color, use white
vinegar.
1795. Pickled Onions. Peel small sil-
ver button onions, and throw them into a
stew-pan of boiling water; as soon as they
look clear, take them out with a strainer-ladle,
place them on a folded cloth covered with
another, and when quite dry put them into a
jar and cover them with hot spiced vinegar.
(See No. 1791.) When quite cold, bung them
down, and cover with bladder wetted with the
pickle.
1796. Pickled Peppers. Soak 'fresh
hard peppers in salt and water for 9 days, in
a warm place, changing the brine every day.
Then put them into cold vinegar. If the
pickles are not required very hot, take out
the seeds from the greater portion of the pep-
pers.
1797. Beetroot Pickles. Simmer the
roots till 3 parts done (from H to 2| hours);
then take them out, peel and cut them in thin
slices. Put them into a jar, and pour on
sufficient cold spiced vinegar (see No. 1791)
to cover them.
1798. Pickled Walnuts. Take 100
young walnuts, lay them in. salt and water for
2 or 3 days, changing the water every day.
(If required to be soon ready for use, pierce
each walnut with a larding pin, that the pickle
may penetrate.) Wipe them with a soft
cloth, and lay them on a folded cloth for
some hours. "Then put them in a jar, and
pour on sufficient hot spiced vinegar (see No.
L791) to cover them. Or they may be al-
owed to simmer gently in strong vinegar,
then put into a jar with a handful of niustard
seed, 1 ounce ginger, 4 ounce mace, 1 ounce
allspice, 2 heads of garlic, and 2 split nutmegs,
and pour on them sufficient boiling vinegar to
cover them. Dr. Kitchener recommends the
walnuts to be gently simmered with the brine,
,hen laid on a cloth for a day or two, till they
turn black, put into ajar, and hot spiced vine-
ar poured on them.
1799. Pickled White Cabbage. Cut
white cabbage into thin slices, put it into an
jarthen pan, sprinkle with salt, and let it lie
"or 2 days ; then drain and spread it out before
he fire for some hours ; put it into a stone jar,
md add sufficient white vinegar, or pale white
rinegar, to cover, with a little mace and a few
white pepper-corns.
1800. Pickled Red Cabbage. Kemove *
he outer leaves and stalks, and cut the cab-
jage in quarters, then shred them into a cul-
TEAST.
lender, and sprinkle with salt ; next day drain,
put them into a jar, and pour on sufficient
cold spiced vinegar to cover them. (See No.
1791.) Others hang up the cabbage for a few
days to dry, then shred the leaves, and put
them in layers in a jar with a little salt, pep-
per, and ginger, and fill up with cold vinegar.
Others use vinegar without spice.
1801. Pickled Nasturtiums, French
Beans, and other small green vegetables, are
made in the same manner as directed for
gherkins. (See No. 1793.)
1802. Pickled Mushrooms. Clean
the mushrooms with water and flannel, throw
them into boiling salt and water in a stewpan,
and boil for a few minutes. Drain them in a
cullender, and spread out on a linen cloth,
covering them with another. Put into bottles
with a blade or two of mace, and fill up with
white vinegar, pouring some melted mutton
fat on the top, if intended to be kept long.
1803. Pickled Tomatoes. Tomatoes
are pickled in the same manner as cucumbers.
(See No. 1793.)
1804. Imitation Pickled Mangoes.
Large cucumbers, or small melons, are split
so that a marrow-spoon may be introduced,
and the seeds scooped out; they are then par-
boiled in brine strong enough to float an egg,
dried on a cloth before the fire, filled with
mustard seed and a clove of garlic, and then
covered with spiced vinegar. (See No. 1791.)
Keal mangoes are pickled in the same way.
1805. Piccalilli, Indian, or Mixed
Pickle. To each gallon strong vinegar put
4 ounces curry powder, 4 ounces good flour of
mustard, 3 ounces bruised ginger, 2 ounces
turmeric, 8 ounces skimmed shallots, and 2
ounces garlic, the last two slightly baked, J
pound salt and 2 drachms cayenne pepper.
Digest these near the fire, as directed in N"o.
1791 for spiced vinegar. Put into a jar, gher-
kins, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button
onions, cauliflower, celery, French beans, nas-
turtiums, capsicums, large cucumbers, and
small melons. AH except the capsicums to
be parboiled in salt and water, drained, and
dried on a cloth before the fire. The melons
and large cucumbers to be prepared as direct-
ed in last receipt for mangoes. Pour on them
the above pickle.
1806. Mixed Pickle. Take 1 pound
ginger-root and $ pound garlic (both pre-
viously^alted and dried), 2 gallons vinegar, 3
ounce turmeric, and £ pound long pepper.
Digest together for 2 or 3 days near the fire
in a stone jar ; or gently simmer them in a
pipkin or enameled saucepan. Then put in
almost any vegetables -except red cabbage and
walnuts, all previously salted and dried.
Yeast. Teast is either the froth or
the deposit of fermenting worts, accord-
ing to the character of the fermentation. Ac-
cording to Liebig, yeast is a substance in a
state of putrefaction or fermentation, the
atoms of which are in a continual motion, and
this condition it communicates by contact, to
fermentable substances. Liidersdorfl7 con-
siders yeast an organic body, acting on the
sugar contained in the saccharine solution,
and not by mere contact and communication
of its own condition. This view receives
considerable support by examination of its
particles by a microscope, and also from its
fermenting power being destroyed by tritura-
tion or strong pressure. Cooley believes both
views to a certain extent correct, and that the
atoms in a state of continual motion or change,
referred to by Liebig, are developed by the
organs of vital yeast, when in contact with
sugar under circumstances favorable to fer-
mentation.
1 808. Preparation of Brewers' Yeast.
To do this, 72 pounds unkilned malt and a
handful of hops are gradually stirred in a
clean tub containing 7 gallons water of 170°
Fahr.; and to this 5 5 gallons water of 200° are
added. The tub is then covered tightly and
left quiet for 1 hour. Supposing this to be
done at 6 P. M., the whole is left undisturbed
till 7 o'clock next morning, when it must be
cooled rapidly, which is done by setting in
cans filled with cold water. When the tem-
perature of the mash has reached 70°, the tub
is covered again and left during the day till 6
P. M.; at this time 1| gallons fresh beer yeast
are to be stirred in. In 12 hours pierce a hole
in the layer formed by the husks of the rnalt,
and dip 3& gallons of the liquor beneath, then
stir the whole up and dip If gallons from it
(husks and liquor). This is the mother-barm,
from which you can generate yeast all the
year round in using it in the way described
instead of the ordinary beer leaven. To the
remainder in the tub add 5 gallons wort of
90°. (see No. 858), and make use of it in within
2 hours. The mother-yeast also must be
used the same day for fermenting another
portion.
1809. Yeast for Hot Climates. Boil
2 ounces of the best hops in 4 quarts 'water
for % hour ; strain it, and let the liquor cool
down to new milk warmth. Then put in a
small handful of salt and 2 pound brown sugar;
beat up 1 pound best flour with some of the
liquor, and mix all well together. The third
day add 3 pounds potatoes boiled and mashed,
and let it stand until the next day. Then
strain, and it is ready for use. Stir frequently
while making, and keep near a fire. Before
using, stir well ; it will keep 2 or 3 months in
a cool place. This yeast is very strong ; half
the usual quantity necessary for a baking is
sufficient. This yeast may be kept in a tem-
perature as high as 104° Fahr.
1810. To Prepare Yeast without a
Ferment. Common wheat flour is to be
mixed with water into a thick paste, and
kept, slightly covered, in a moderately warm
place, for some time. About the third day
it begins to emit a little gas, and to exhale a
disagreeable, sour odor, like stale milk ; after
the lapse of a few days, that is, about the
sixth or seventh day, the smell changes, much
gas is evolved, accompanied by a distinct and
agreeable vinous odor, and it is then in a
state to excite the vinous fermentation. A
quantity of wort is next to be prepared, and
boiled with hops, in the same manner as in
ihe brewing of beer (sec No. 858), and when
ooled to 90° or 100° Fahr., the decomposed
dough, thoroughly mixed with tepid water, is
to be added, and the whole kept in a warm
situation. After the lapse of a few hours,
THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
185
active fermentation takes place, carbonic acid
is disengaged, and when the action is complete,
and the liquor clear, a large quantity of yeast,
of excellent quality, is found at the bottom of
the vessel.
1811. To Make Yeast without a Fer-
ment. Boil J peck malt in 3 pints water ;
pour off 2 pints, and keep it in a warm place
For 30 hours ; add 4 pints of a similar decoc-
tion, stir it well in, again ferment, and repeat
this addition of 4 pints until a sufficient quan-
tity of yeast is obtained ; 10 pints will yield
yeast sufficient for a brewing of 40 gallons; it
is preferable to brewers' yeast, particularly
when used for raising doush.
1812. To Make Good Yeast without
Ferment. Put 2 ounces best hops into 9
pints cold water; boil ^ hour, strain while
hot, and add 2 ounces fine table salt and J
pound sugar. "When the mixture becomes
blood-warm, put 1 pound sifted flour into a
large basin, make a well in the centre with
the hand, add the liquor by degrees, stirring
with a spoon until the whole is thoroughly
incorporated. Let it stand for 2 days in a
warm place, stirring it 3 or 4 times a day;
then boil and mash finely 3 pounds good po-
tatoes, and mix them in. After standing 1
day more, there should be a heavy dark scum
on the surface. Stir it thoroughly, strain
through a sieve or cullender, put it into a
stone jar, cork and tie down firmly, and keep
in a cool cellar. This is a self-fermenting
yeast, improves by keepingif not left uncorked,
and will not make sour bread.
1813. To Make Yeast with a Fer-
ment. Mix 2 quarts water with wheat flour,
to the consistence of thick gruel ; boil it gently
for ^ hour, and when almost cold, stir into it
k pound sugar and 4 spoonfuls good yeast.
Put the whole in a large jug or earthen vessel,
with a narrow top, and place it before the fire,
so that it may, by a moderate heat, ferment.
The fermentation will throw up a thin liquor,
which pour off and throw away; keep the
remainder for use (in a cool place) in a. bottle,
or jug tied over. The same quantity of this
as of common yeast will suffice to bake or
brew with. 4 spoonfuls of this yeast will
municate a most disagreeable taste to bread.
This may be derived from an excess of hops.
To rectify this, mix with the yeast a consider-
able quantity of water, and set it by to rest
for some hours, when the thickest part will
fall, to the bottom. Pour off the water,
which will have extracted part of the bitter
Erinciple, and use only the stiff portion that
as fallen to the bottom. But yeast sometimes
acquires a bitter taste from keeping, which is
quite independent of that derived from the
hops. To remedy this, throw into the yeast
a few clean coals freshly taken from the fire,
but allowed to cool a little on the surface.
The operation appears to depend in principle
upon the power of freshly burnt charcoal to
absorb gases and remove offensive odors.
1817. Baking Powder. This is chiefly
employed as a substitute for yeast. 1 or 2
tea-spoonfuls are mixed with the dry flour
and other ingredients, which are then made
into a dough, as quickly as possible, with cold
water, and at once baked or boiled, as the case
may be. By the addition of about £ drachm
turmeric powder to each pound of baking
powder, it is converted into egg powder.
These preparations should be kept in well
corked bottles or tins, to prevent absorption
of moisture.
1818. To Make Baking Powder.
Powder and thoroughly dry separately, by
gentle heat, ^ pound tartaric acid, £ pound
pure bicarbonate of soda, and £ pound potato
farina; mix them in a dry room, pass the
mixture through a sieve, and at once put into
packages, observing to press it hard, and to
cover it with tinfoil or close-made paper, and
to preserve it as much as possible from air and
moisture. Or : Mix and pack, as just described,
£ pound tartaric acid, | pound alum, £ pound
pure bicarbonate of soda, 1 pound farina, and
3 ounces sesquicarbonate of ammonia. Or : 5
pounds tartaric acid, 8 pounds pure sesqui-
carbonate of soda, and 16 pounds farina. In
using, 1 or 2 tea-spoonfuls are mixed with the
dry flour, which is then made up quickly with
cold water, and baked immediately. Any
other flour or starch may be used instead of
the potato flour.
make a fresh quantity as before, and the stock
may be always kept up, by fermenting the
new with the remainder of the former quantity.
1814. Patent Yeast. Simmer 6 ounces
hops in 3 gallons water for 3 hours ; strain it,
and in 10 minutes stir in \ peck ground malt.
5fext re-boil the hops in water, and add the j The aim of the following receipts is to afford
liquor to the mash already made, which must j information for the treatment of ornamental
Receipts for the Flower
and Kitchen G-arden.
be well stirred up, covered over, and left for 4
hours ; then drain off the wort, and when
cooled down to 90° Fahr., set it to work with
1 pint yeast (patent is best) ; after standing
for 20 to' 24 hours, take off the scum, strain it
through a coarse hair sieve, and it is ready for
use. 1 pint is said to be enough for 1 bushel
of bread.
1815. To Preserve Yeast.
Ordinary
beer yeast may be kept fresh and fit for use
for several months, by placing it in a close
canvas bag, and gently squeezing out the
moisture in a screw press till the remaining
matter becomes as stiff as clay, in which state
it must be preserved in close vessels.
1816. To Remedy Bitterness in
Yeast. Yeast is often so bitter as to com-
in-door plants, and for the general requirements
and improvement of the flower and kitchen
garden, without entering into the principles of
either agriculture or horticulture.
1820. To Dissolve Bones for Ma-
nure. Break the bones into small pieces, or
pulverize them, if the means are available;
put them into a hole in the ground, or, prefer-
ably, a stone tank. Pour upon them about
40 pounds oil of vitriol to 100 pounds boues.
Work the mixture with long wooden poles
until the mass is uniform. Allow it to re-
main 24 hours, by which time it will be per-
fectly dry. A couple of shovelfuls added
daily to a dung-heap will form a fine compost.
Bones may also be dissolved by filling an
old barrel with alternate layers of wood ashes
186
THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
and fresh bones, slightly wetting from time to
time with hot water. This is a more econom-
ical plan than by the use of sulphuric acid,
and is said to make a more soluble compound.
1821. Composts for Improving the
Soil. Composts are mixtures of several
earths, or earthy substances, or dungs, either
for the improvement of the general soil under
cultivation, or for the culture of particular
plants. In respect to composts for the soil of
the garden, their quality must depend upon
that of the natural soil ; if this bo light, loose,
or sandy, it may be assisted by heavy loams,
clays, etc., from ponds and ditches, cleanings
of sewers, etc. On the other hand, heavy
clayey and all stubborn soils may be assisted
by light composts of sandy earth, drift, and
sea-sand, the shovelings of turnpike roads,
the cleansing of streets, all kinds of ashes,
rotten tanners' bark, rotten wood, sawdust,
and other similar light opening materials that
can be most conveniently procured.
1822. To Prepare Composts. The
preparation necessary for heavy and light
composts for general enrichment, and of the
above different earths, consists in collecting
each soil in the compost ground, in separate
ridges of 3 or 4 feet broad, and as high, turn-
ing them every G weeks or 2 months for a year
or a year and a half before they are used.
Peat earth, being generally procured in the
state of turf full of the roots and tops of heath,
requires 2 or 3 years to rot ; but after it has
lain 1 year it may be sifted, and what passes
through a small sieve will be found fit for use.
Some nurserymen use both these loams and
peats as soon as procured, and find them
answer perfectly for most plants ; but for
delicate flowers, and especially bulbs, and all
florists' flowers, and for all composts in which
manures enter, not less than 1 year ought to be
allowed for decomposition and sweetening.
1823. Universal Composts. The pre-
paration of many separate kinds of composts
may be obviated by the general use of the
following mixture : Fibrous peat, 1 part ; leaf-
mould, 2 parts ; thoroughly rotted dung, 1
part ; light kazelly loam, 4 parts ; and 1 part
sharp sand. There is scarcely any flowering
plant but will grow well in such a mixture,
and if peat is not to be had, an additional part
of leaf-mould may take its place.
1824. Liquid Manure. The principal
materials now used for liquid manures are to
be used in the following proportions for all or-
dinary purposes : Guano, dissolve CO pounds
weight in 10 gallons water, and of this strong
solution, add 5 ounces to 10 gallons of water
for use. Sheep's-dung, 1 peck to 30 gallons.
Sulphate of ammonia, 1£ ounces to every
gallon.
1825. Liquid Guano to Hasten the
Blowing1 of Flowers. To hasten the blow-
ing of flowers the following liquid has been
used with great advantage: Sulphate or
nitrate of ammonia, 4 ounces; nitrate of
potash, 2 ounces ; sugar, 1 ounce ; hot water,
1 pint ; dissolve and keep it in a well-corked
bottle. For use, put 8 or 10 drops of this
liquid into the water of a hyacinth-glass or
jar for bulbous -rooted plants, changing the
water every 10 or 12 days. For flowering
plants in pots, a few drops must be added to
the water employed to moisten them.
1826. Artificial Manure for Clover.
Mix together 10 parts each sulphate of am-
monia, common salt, and oil of vitriol; 15
parts chloride of potassium ; 17 parts each
gypsum (plaster of Paris) and sulphate of
potassa; 20 parts saltpetre; 25 parts crude
Epsom salt (sulphate of magnesia) ; and 33
parts sulphate of soda (Glauber salts.)
1827. Artificial Manure for Wheat,
Turnips, or Grass. Take 28 pounds crude
potash, 1 cwt. common salt, 2 cwt. each bone
dust and gypsum (plaster of Paris), and 15
bushels wood ashes. Mix them together.
1828. Artificial Guano. Mix 11 pounds
dry sulphate of soda (Glauber salts) with 28
pounds wood ashes ; 84 pounds common salt ;
112 pounds crude sulphate of ammonia ; and
7 bushels bone dust.
1829. Fertilizing Powder. To 18
parts very fine bone dust add 1 part each
gypsum (plaster of Paris) and sulphate of
ammonia. The seed should be steeped in
the drainings from a dunghill ; and alter be-
ing drained, but while still wet, should be
sprinkled with the powder and then dried.
1830. Phosphate for Manuring.
Macerate for some days, with frequent stir-
ring, 2 parts crushed bones in 1 part oil of vit-
riol and 3 parts water. This forms a super-
Shosphate of lime, which, mixed with water,
ry earth, or sand, forms an excellent manure.
1831. How to Select and Manage
Cuttings. The choice of cuttings should ue
made from the side shoots of trees and plants,
and, when possible, from such as recline
towards the ground, observing to leave a little
wood of a former year or season's growth
attached to them, as such are found to take
root more readily than when they are wholly
composed of new wood. The time to take
cuttings is as soon as the sap gets into full
motion. Before setting them they should be
cut across, just below an eye or joint, with as
smooth a section as possible, observing not to
injure the bud. The superfluous leaves may
be removed, but a sufficient number should be
left on for the purposes of vegetation. The
practice of removing all or nearly all of the
leaves of cuttings is injudicious. In some
cases leaves alone will strike root. In the
case of tubular stalked plants, it is said to be
advantageous to insert both ends into the soil,
each of which will take root, and may then bo
divided, when two plants will be produced
instead of one. An equable temperature, a
moist atmosphere, a shady situation, and
a moderate supply of water, arc the princi-
pal requisites to induce speedy rooting. Ex-
cess of any of these is prejudicial. When the
size of the cuttings' admits, it is better to
place them under a hand or bell glass, which
will preserve a constant degree of heat, and
prevent evaporation from the surface of the
leaves, which is the most common cause of
their dying, especially in hot, dry weather.
"What the degree of heat ought to be is deci-
ded by the degree of heat requisite for the
mother plant. Most species of the erica,
dahlia, and geranium, strike better when sup-
plied with rather more heat than is requisite
for the growth of these plants in green-houses.
Cuttings of the myrtle tribe, camellias, and
most other plants, require rather less heat
than the plants in their growing state.
THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
187
1832. To Insert Cuttings. Cuttings,
if inserted in a mere mass of earth, will hard-
ly throw out roots, while, if inserted at the
side of the pot so as to touch the pot in then-
whole length, they seldom fail to become
rooted plants. The art is to place them to
touch the bottom of the pot ; they are then
to be plunged in a bark or hot-bed and kept
moist.
1833. The Color of Flowers Changed
by Charcoal. A horticulturist in England
purchased a rose-bush full of promising buds
— the flowers, however, were of a faded hue.
He covered the earth in the pot about an
inch thick with pulverized charcoal, and was
surprised, some days afterward, to find the
blooms of a fine lively rose color. He then
. tried the powdered charcoal upon petunias,
and found, that both the white and violet col-
ored flowers were equally sensitive to its ac-
tion. It always gave great vigor to the red
or violet color of the flowers, and the white
petunias became veined with red or violet
tints ; the violets became covered with irreg-
ular spots of a bluish or almost black tint.
Many persons who admired them thought
they were choice new varieties from the seed.
Yellow flowers appear to be insensible to the
influence of charcoal.
1834. To Turn White Flowers Red.
The juice of the Yirginian pokeweed sprin-
kled on the white hyacinth will turn it red.
The same effect is produced on many other
white flowers.
1835. To Preserve Cut Flowers.
Place a vase containing the cut flowers in the
centre of a flat dish, into which a little water
has been poured ; invert a bell glass over the
vase, so that the rim of the glass is covered
by the water, thus forming an air-tight cham-
ber. The air surrounding the flowers will be
constantly moist, and will remain so as long
as the supply of water in the dish is kept un-
dhuinished. We recommend those who love
to see plenty of fresh flowers in their sitting-
rooms in dry weather, to adopt this plan.
The experiment can bo tried by inverting a
tumbler over a rose-bud in a saucer of water.
If some charcoal has been previously steeped
in the water, or a small piece of camphor dis-
solved, it will greatly assist in keeping the
flowers fresh. Yiolets may be preserved for a
long time by sticking them with short stems
into a glass dish filled with damp silver-sand,
and then inverting a tumbler over them.
1836. To Preserve Flowers. Flowers
may be preserved for many months by dip-
ping tham carefully, as soon as gathered, in
perfectly limpid gum water; after allowing
them to drain for 2 or 3 minutes, arrange them
in a vase. The gum forms a complete coating
on the stems and petals, and preserves their
shape and color long after they have become
dry.
1837. Preservation of Flowers with
their Natural Colors. The mode in which
the operation is effected is this : A vessel
with a movable cover and bottom is provided,
and having removed the cover from it, a piece
of metallic gauze of moderate fineness is
fixed over it, and the cover replaced. A
quantity of sand is then taken, sufficient to
fill the vessel, and passed through a sieve into
an iron pot, where it is. heated, with the addi-
tion of a small quantity of stearine, carefully
stirred, so as to thoroughly mix the ingredi-
ents. The quantity of stearine to be added is
at the rate of £ pound to 100 pounds of sand.
Care must be taken not to add too much
stearine, as it would sink to the bottom and
injure the flowers. The vessel, with its cover
on and the gauze beneath it, is then turned
upside down, and, the bottom being removed,
the flowers to be operated upon are carefully
placed on the gauze and the sand gently
poured in, so as to cover the flowers entirely,
the leaves being thus prevented from touch-
ing each other. The vessel is then put into a
hot place, such, for instance, as the top of a
baker's oven, where it is left for 18 hours.
The flowers thus become dried, and they re-
tain their natural colors. The vessel still re-
maining bottom upwards, the lid is taken off,
and the sand runs away through the gauze,
leaving the flowers uninjured.
1838. To Preserve Flowers in Wa-
ter. Mix a little saltpetre or carbonate of
soda with water, and it will preserve the
flowers for 2 weeks.
1839. To Restore Faded Flowers.
Faded flowers may be generally restored by
immersing them half-way up their stems in
very hot water, and allowing them to remain
in it until it cools, or they have recovered.
They must then be removed, the coddled por-
tion of the stems cut off, and placed in clean
cold water. In this way a great number of
faded flowers may be restored, but there are
some of the more delicate kinds on which it
proves useless.
1 840. To Raise Hyacinths in Winter.
Put the bulbs in glasses or earth, and set them
in a dark closet to sprout. If in glasses, the
water should not be higher than 1 inch below
the bulb, until the roots have reached the wa-
ter, when the glasses may be filled up, a piece
of charcoal put in the water, and the plants
set in the sun to grow.
1841. Soot Water for Roses. Put
the soot obtained from the pipe or chimney
of a wood fire, into a pitcher, and pour hot
water upon it. "When cool, use the liquid oc-
casionally to water the rose plants. Its effects
are extraordinary in strengthening the growth
of the plants and flowers.
1842. To Make Hydrangea Flowers
Blue. If they are grown in a tolerably
strong maiden loam, which contains a portion
of oxide of iron, the flowers will become blue
without further trouble ; but they will require
to be potted in this said compost, and con-
tinually grown in the same, from the cutting
pot, to ensure their flowers coming blue. If
the soil itself will not make the flower blue,
they should be watered with a solution of
alum for some time previous to flowering.
The solution may bo made by mixing at the
rate of 1 ounce alum to a gallon of rain water. .
The plants should bo struck from small cut-
tings of the soft wood, from February till
May, that are required to flower in those
mouths the following year. They should bo
potted in time enough for their roots to fill
them before winter. It is advisable to flower
them the following spring in the pots, allow-
ing the plants to produce only one cluster of
flowers each, and taking off all the suckers and
side shoots to strike for flowering the follow-
188
THE FLOWEE AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
ing spring, as old plants cannot be depended
upon to produce blue flowers. If £ part of
iron filings be mixed with the earth in which
the plant is grown, it will frequently, although
not always, change from its original pink
cofor to a light blue. A cutting, however,
taken from the plant thus changed, and grown
without iron filing, reverts to its previous
color.
1843. To Prevent Damping or Fog-
ging Off. Cuttings in heat, and seedlings
pricked out, are very liable to damp off, if in
a confined air, with too much moisture. The
best mode of treatment is, as soon as evidences
of damping appear, to give more air, and in-
crease the temperature 5 degrees, and, at the
same time, to sprinkle the surface of the soil
with a mixture of silver-sand and powdered
peat, crumbled to the fineness of snuff.
1844. To Remedy American Blight.
Take -J- peck quicklime, £ pound flowers of
sulphur, and J pound lampblack. Mix with
boiling water, enough to form a thick paint.
"With this, in the winter, when the leaves are
off, paint the branches, having first removed
all loose bark. In doing this, be sure to re-
move the soil from the bottom of the stem to
the main roots, and paint all the nuderground
part. February is a good time for this. If
one application is not sufficient, repeat. Use
the paint warm. When this has become dry,
the trees should be looked over, and all cracks
and holes stopped with well worked clay, and
after frost the clay-stoppings should be dressed
again, to close any cracks1 that may occur.
1 845 . To D estroy Aphides, and Other
Insects on Plants. Take of quassia chips, 3 £
ounces ; larkspur seed, 5 drachms ; boil these
together in 7 pints water until the decoction
is reduced to 5 pints. When the liquid is cooled
it is to be strained, and used with a watering-
pot or syringe, as may be most convenient.
This is a most excellent method of destroying
insects on plants, without injury to the latter.
It is recommended by the highest authorities.
1846. Blight on Fruit Trees, Hoses,
and Fruit Bushes. When winter dressings
have failed, and the pests appear in spring to
such an extent as to endanger the crop, pro-
cure a quantity of ammoniacal liquor from
the gas-works, and to every pailful of the li-
quor add 6 of water, and boil as soon as pos-
sible in a large copper. Apply this in the
evening, hot, with a syringe, drenching every
part of the trees, and letting not a leaf escape.
It should be used as hot as can be borne by
placing the hand in it, and thrown with as
much force as possible into all the crevices in
the bark, on the under sides of the leaves, and
splashed vigorously against the wall on which
espaliers are trained. It may be used also for
roses and fruit bushes, with the most certain
benefit. Two days after give another syring-
ing with plain warm water. To clean the
copper in which the mixture is prepared, fill
it with water, throw in a shovel of cinder
ashes and a pound of soda, and let it boil for
half an hour.
1 847. To Prevent Ants from Inj uring
Fruit Trees. Make a line of gas-tar round
the stem of the tree, or if it be trained on a
wal], make a horizontal line near the ground,
on the wall, and one round the stem; this
will prevent ants from ascending.
1848. To Destroy Black Ants. Boil
4 ounces quassia chips in 1 gallon water, for
10 minutes, and add 4 ounces soft soap. • This
is excellent to destroy black ants. Or:
Sprinkle pulverized borax over the plants or
places infested by these vermin. (See No.
1909.)
1849. To Prevent Mildew on Trees.
The best preventive against mildew is to keep
the plant subject to it occasionally syringed
with a decoction of elder leaves, which will
prevent the fungus growing on them.
1 850. To Remove Mildew from Roses,
Pelargoniums, Etc. Mildew has been suc-
cessfully removed from roses and pelargon-
iums, by dissolving 1 ounce nitre to 1 gallon
water, and watering the plants with it occa-
sionally ; another way is to wash the diseased
parts with a decoction of elder leaves,. But
the most effectual remedy is flowers of sul-
phur dusted over the foliage, by means of a
dredging-box with very fine holes.
1851. To Remove Green Fly. Choose
a still evening, and let the plants be quite dry.
Arrange them together in a close place ; put
into an iron pan, or a flower-pot, a few red-hot
cinders that do not smoke, upon which lay
the tobacco or tobacco-paper; a cloud of
smoke will soon arise. When the frame is
well filled with smoke, remove the pan, and
be exceedingly careful that the tobacco does
not break out into a flame.
1852. To Fumigate Plants with To-
bacco Smoke. There are various modes of
employing the smoke of tobacco for the de-
struction of insect pests in plant houses, but
the best is as follows : — According to the size
of the place to be fumigated provide one or
more pieces of cast-iron 1 inch thick and 3
inches of surface. Make these red-ho.t and
place each in a large-sized pot ; and on them
as much tobacco as may be considered neces-
sary to completely fill the house with smoke.
An ordinary eight-light house will require 3
heaters, and 1 pound of tobacco, divided into
3 equal parts. If the tobacco is previously
soaked in a strong solution of saltpetre, its
ignition is more rapid and complete, and a less
quantity suffices.
1853. To Drive Worms out of Pots.
Securely cork up all the drainage holes in the
pot, and then flood it for several hours with
clear lirne-wate r.
1854. To Destroy Green Fly. Syr-
inge the plants with tobacco water. One part
ammoniacal liquor from the gas-works, mixed
with 5 or more parts of water, according to
its strength, will also destroy the insects.
1855. "Wash to Prevent Cattle from
Barking Trees. Take f cow-dung and J
lime; mix with a little water, to the consist-
ency of thick lime-wash, and lay this on the
stems of the trees as far as the cattle can
reach.
1856. To Prevent Grub in Oni9ns.
Make some strong lime-water, add to it as
much soot as will make it into a thin paint,
and water the crop with it the moment the
maggot appears. This soot mixture is so stim-
ulating a manure that it should always be
used to increase the weight of the crop.
House-slops mixed with lime and soot would
be still more powerful, both to destroy mag-
got and improve the plant ; but unless rain
THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GAUD EN.
189
followed immediately, it would be advisable
to drench the ground with pure water the day
after application. Ground intended for a crop
of large onions should be prepared in the au-
tumn, and after being dug over, should be
watered with a mixture of sulphuric acid anc
water, made so strong as to burn the tongue.
This will destroy every animal in the soil, anc
the winter rains will wash it away entirely
before spring.
1857. To Prevent Attacks of Bed
Spider. In cases where the infested plant;
can be well syringed, a few times repeating
this operation will cause them to disappear.
"When this cannot be resorted to with safety,
the flues or pipes may be washed over with
sulphur, and should be kept warm to raise an
effluvia in the house, which will soon eradi-
cate these pests. If a little soft soap is
mixed with the water to syringe with, it will
prove obnoxious to many other insects as well
as red spider, and will not injure the foliage oi
the plant, providing the plants are not syr-
inged when the scorching hot sun is upon
them.
1858. To Kill Thrips on Cucumbers
and Melon Plants. To kill thrips on cu-
cumbers and melon plants, they should be
syringed with tobacco water, and a little sul-
phur added, or with a decoction of elder
leaves ; either of these repeated a few times
will suffice ; or the infested parts may' be
dusted over .with flowers of sulphur, and al-
lowed to remain on for 3 or 4 days, when it
should be washed off thoroughly with a
syringe. (See No. 1850.)
1859. To Destroy Maggot in Roses.
A bushel of uuslacked lime in powder, £
pound sulphur also in powder; mix these
well whilst dry, then add water to make it
about as thick as molasses, and boil for 1 hour;
then add just enough soot, moistened to the
same consistence, to darken the color; lay
this on with a brush all over, stock and head,
in the latter part of March.
1860. To Destroy Moss on Fruit
Trees. Every second year fruit trees should
be well scrubbed with a scrubbing brush
dipped in strong brine, so as to moisten every
part of the bark of the stem and branches.
This not only destroys the moss, but in-
sects of all kinds, and is beneficial to all trees,
whereas applications of lime choke up the
respiratory pores, and sometimes produce
canker.
1861. To Remove Moss on Gravel
"Walks. This may be kept down by the use
of a broom made of wire; if the wire is made
of iron the broom should be well dried and
dipped in oil before and after being used.
1862. To Protect Lettuce and Straw-
berry Beds from. Snails. If the beds are
surrounded by a slate or board edging, made
to stand 5 inches above the ground, and occa-
sionally coated with a paste made of train
oil and soot, it will form a barrier over which
Bnails will not pass.
1863. To Prove Cucumber and Melon
Seed. When the fruit is first cut, the seed
should be put into a bowl of water, and that
which swims on the surface is worthless •; the
good will sink to the bottom. This can only
be depended upon at the time the fruit is first
cut j if the seed has been dried and kept for
any length of time, it will probably all .swim,
though it has not lost its vegetating proper-
ties.
1864. To Clean1 Cucumber and Melon
Seed. Take all the seeds that sink in water
and put them into a hair sieve ; pour some
warm water over them that has been heated
to 90° or 95° Fahr., and then rub the seeds
about in the sieve. The warm water will di-
vest them of the glutinous matter, and it
may be easily rubbed off them through the
sieve, ufter which they may be laid to dry.
Cucumber and melon seeds will vegetate after
they have been kept for years.
1865. To KiU Moss on Lawns. Water
the lawn with a weak solution of arnmouiacal
liquor (see No. 1854) ; 1 gallon of this liquor
is sufficient to mix with 4 gallons of water,
and should be put on with a rose water-pot.
It will cause the grass to look brown after-
wards for a while, but it will become green
again. Another way is to procure some very
fine siftings of coal-ashes, and sow them
all over the parts where moss abounds. It
will only be requisite to sow them very thinly,!
and if done just before a shower of rain, so
much the better, as the rain will wash it in ;
this will kill the moss without injuring the
grass. The presence of mos^ indicates that
the soil is exhausted, and a top-dressing of
nitrate of soda or soot will be found beneficial.j
If the grass is made to thrive, it will always
choke the moss. (See No. 1876.)
1866. To Kill Moss on Meadow Land.,
The mossy parts of- the meadow should be
well manured with good well-rotted stable
dung in the autumn ; and, if practicable, the
grass should be fed off the following spring,
with sheep. Nitrate of soda sown on the,
mossy parts of the field will also kill the-
moss, and is an excellent manure for the grass ;i
but this should not be sown at the rate of
more than 1£ cwt. per acre. (
1867. To Kill Docks, Dandelions, etc.
Cut the tops off in the spring or summer
time, and pour some gas-tar, or sprinkle
some salt on the wound. Either of these
will kill the root, by eating to the very ex-
tremity.
1868. To Destroy Burdocks. Cut
lose to the ground with a sharp hoe, and
apply a few drops of kerosene. The plant so'
treated will never appear again.
1869. To Prevent the Growth of
Weeds in Garden Walks. A weak solu-
lon of carbolic acid applied with a watering-
to garden walks will be an effectual mode
)f preventing the growth of weeds. The so-
ution should not be stronger than 1 part pure
carbolic acid to 1000 to 2000 parts water.
Pure carbolic acid is a virulent poison. "When
applied in too strong a solution, larger plants
nay suffer ; very weak solutions destroy only
very small plants and animals, as parasites,
miasma. Even flies and mosquitoes avoid its
odor and may be driven away by it.
1870. To Destroy Thistles, Grass,
and Weeds, in Gravel Walks. Sow
ioarse salt upon the plants ; the thistles
should be first cut to the ground, and the
resh roots be covered with the salt. The
refuse article from the beef, pork, or salt
ish barrel is quite good enough, and may be
employed for this purpose.
190
THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
1871. Cleanliness for Plants. Fre-
quently the cause of the languidness of plants
in. rooms, arises from "want of care in cleans-
ing the leaves. Plants breathe by their
leaves, which should be kept perfectly clean
otherwise their respiration is interfered with
*The mere watering of the roots is not enough
Plants also perspire by their leaves, and any
accumulation of dirt and dust retards this
useful function. Plants also feed by their
leaves, by absorbing the carbonic acid of the
atmosphere; and, to speak familiarly, dirt
destroys both their appetite and digestion.
Let any one examine a sickly plant, long kept
in a sitting-room, or draw a piece of white
linen or leather over the surface of the leaves,
and he will probably discover the cause of the
plant's drooping.
1872. To Keep Cucumbers Fresh.
"When the cucumbers are at their best they
should be cut, and laid in a box made just to
fit them, and then bury the box in some dry
sand, covering it over to the depth of a foot.
There should not be any hay or moss put with
them in the box, as it will cause them to turn
yellow. If laid in the box without hay or
moss, their color and bloom may be preserved
for two weeks to look as fresh as the day they
^ere cut. Melons may also be kept in 'the
same way.
1873. To Cure Gumming in Fruit
Trees. The place where the gum accumu-
lates should bo well washed and cleaned, and
then stopped well up with a paste made of
horse-dung, clay and tar. This will prevent
the accumulation of the gum, and will assist
the wound in healing over.
1874. To Prevent the Bottoms of
Plant Sticks Rotting. Dip the bottoms of
the plant sticks (as far as they are inserted
into the ground) into hot asphalt three or
four times, until the asphalt is the -fa of an
inch thickness on them; this will preserve
them a long time. Those that have not the
convenience of dipping them in asphalt, may
substitute tar, and they will endure nearly as
long as those that have been asphalted.
1875. To Destroy Weeds and Worms
in Gravel Walks. Lay a coat of salt all
over the walk, and then water it, using a rose
water-pot ; but this should not be done where
there is a box edging, or it will kill that like-
wise. "Where the edging is turf, slate, or tiles,
there is nothing to fear.
1876. To Destroy Worms in Lawns,
Grass Plots, etc. Mix at the rate of 10
pounds slacked lime to 30 gallons water ; stir
it up well together, and then let it stand for 2
or 3 days, in which time pour it off the sedi-
ment, and water the lawn with it by means
of a rose water-pot ; this will fetch the worms
out on the top of the ground, and they will
require to be swept up with a broom and car-
ried away. The best time to do this is in damp
weather, as the worms are then nearer the
surface; and the lawn should be rolled the
evening previous, which will not only assist
in bringing the worms nearer the surface, but
will fill up all the holes they have forsaken.
The following night they will again open the
holes in which they lie, and thereby afford
the water greater facility to reach them the
next day without wasting much by its soak-
ing into forsaken holes. Diluted ammoniacal
liquor will answer the same purpose, but it
will make the grass look brown for some time
afterwards. (See No. 1865.)
1877. Composition for Wounds on
Hose-Bushes. Take 5 parts black pitch, 1
part each resin, tailow, and bees' wax ; these
should be mixed in a small pipkin, and dis-
solved over a slow fire. Apply it to the
wounds with a brush, and it will heal them,
as well as prevent their dying back.
1878. Bleeding in Vines. Work to-
gether 1 part calcined oyster-shells beaten to
fine powder in a mortar, and 3 parts cheese,
until they form a sort of paste. This mixture
is to be forced into the pores of the wood
where bleeding takes place, by means of the
thumb and finger. A second application is
sometimes necessary. (See Nos. 1880 and
1881.)
1879. Composition for Healing
Wounds in Trees. Take 3 parts pounded
chalk and 1 part common vegetable tar ; mix
thoroughly, and boil them with a low heat
till ihe composition becomes of the consistency
of bees' wax ; it may be preserved for use in
this state for any length of time. If chalk
cannot conveniently be got, dry brick-dust
may be substituted. . After the broken or
decayed limb has been sawed off, the whole
of the saw-cut must be very carefully pared
away, and the rough edges of the bark, in
particular, must be made quite smooth ; the
doing of this properly is of great consequence;
then lay on the above composition hot, about
the thickness of half a dollar, over the wound-
ed place, and over the edges of the surround-
ing bark; it should be spread with a hot
trowel.
1880. New Grafting Wax. Melt 1
pound resin over a slow fire, add 1 ounce beef
tallow, and stir with a perfectly dry stick or
piece of wire. "When somewhat cooled, add 1
table-spoonful spirits of turpentine, and lastly
5 ounces of 95 per cent, alcohol in small quan-
tities, stirring the mass constantly. Should
the alcohol cause it to lump, warm again
until it melts. Keep in a bottle. Lay it on
in a very thin coat with a brush. In a room
of moderate temperature, the wax should be
of the consistence of molasses. Should it
prove thicker, thin it down with alcohol. It
is always ready for use, is never affected by
heat or cold, and heals up wounds hermeti-
cally.
1881. Grafting Wax. Take 4 ounces
pitch, 4 ounces resin, 2 ounces hogs' lard, and
2 ounces bees' wax; put them all together into
a pipkin, and dissolve them over a slow fire,
and it will form an excellent grafting wax.
By spreading some of this mixture on paper
it makes the grafting paper. The French
make very good grafting wax by mixing to-
gether equal quantities of bees' wax and resin,
and adding as much tallow as will cause it to
dissolve at a low temperature. For an appli-
;ation where limbs ha've been removed in
pruning, nothing is better than coal tar.
1882. Grafting Clay. Take strong ad-
iesive loam or clay, and knead it till of the
onsistency of soft soap. Take also some
lorse droppings, and nrb through a riddle of
lalf-inch mesh. Mix the two ingredients
with fresh cow-dung, all in equal parts, to
a uniform consistency. "When grafting, the
THE EXTERMINATION OF VERMIN
operator should have at hand some finely-
riddled ashes, into which the hands should be
dipped to prevent the clay from adhering, and
enable him to give the whole a neat finish.
1883. To Propagate Marsh Plants.
The best plan is by means of a stone trough
6 inches to a foot deep, and of any convenient
length and breadth, \vith a hole for a tap at
one corner. This is to be treated as a flower-
pot; the bottom being covered with small
stones, and the trough filled up with a com-
post of peat and light loam. The surface is
then covered with any description of light
moss that can be got, and watered till the
whole is saturated to the brim.
1884. To Prepare Seeds for Expor-
tation. Seeds intended for exportation
should not be gathered until they have be-
come perfectly ripe ; they should then be laid
in a stove, or exposed in the sun to dry, as
getting them perfectly dry is the principal
point. They may be packed in bags, papers,
or boxes. If they are kept dry, they will bear
a voyage of many months, without injury to
their vegetating properties.
1885. To Prepare Nails for Wall-
Trees. These should be of cast iron if they
can be obtained. Before using, they should
be heated red-hot, and then thrown into cold
linseed oil. This gives them a varnish which
preserves them from rusting, and prevents the
mortar of the wall from sticking to them
when they are drawn.
1886. Method of Covering a Bank
of Earth With Grass. To cover a steep
' bank quickly with grass the following method
is recommended by a German Horticultural
Association: For each square rod to be planted,
take i pound lawn grass seed, and mix it in-
timately and thoroughly with about 6 solid
feet of good dry garden earth and loam. This
is placed in a tub, and to it liquid manure,
diluted with about §• of water, is added and
well stirred in, so as to bring the whole to the
consistency of mortar. The slope is to be
cleaned off and made perfectly smooth, and
then well watered, after which the paste just
mentioned is to bo applied with a trowel, and
made as even and thin as possible. Should
it crack by exposure to the air, it is to be
again watered and smoothed up day by day,
until the grass makes its appearance, which
will be in 1 or 2 weeks, and the whole declivity
will soon be covered by a close carpet of green.
1887. Substitute for Glass for Hot-
Houses. Apply, with a common painter's
brush, boiled oil, or Canadian balsam, diluted
with oil of turpentine, to the surface of white
muslin previously stretched out and fastened
in the position it is intended to occupy.
1888. To Preserve Potatoes and Other
Hoots. These are preserved in different
ways, according to the object in view. Tube-
rous roots, as those of the dahlia, peeonia,
tuberose, etc., intended to be planted in the
succeeding spring, arc preserved through the
•\Tinter in dry earth, in a temperature rather
under than above what is natural to them.
So may the bulbous roots of commerce, as
hyacinths, tulips, onions, etc.; but, for conve-
nience, these are kept either loose, in cool dry
shelves or lofts, or the finer sorts in papers,
till the season of planting. Roots of all kinds
may be preserved in an ice-house till the re-
turn of the natural crop. After stuffing the
interstices with straw, and covering the sur-
face of the ice with the same material, place
on it boxes, casks, baskets, etc., and fill them
with turnips, carrots, beet roots, and, in par-
ticular, potatoes. By the cold of the place,
vegetation is so much suspended that all these
articles may be thus kept fresh and uninjured
till they give place to another crop inits natural
season.
1889. To Dry Boots. They should be
rubbed in water to get rid of the dirt and also
some of the mucous substance that would
otherwise render them mouldy ; the larger are
then to be cut, split, or peeled, but in most
aromatic roots, the odor residing in the bark,
they must not be peeled ; they are then to bs
spread on sieves or hurdles, and dried in a
heat of about 120° Fahr., either on the top of
an oven, in a stove, or a steam closet, taking
care to shake them occasionally, to change the
surface exposed to the air. Thick and juicy
roots, as rhubarb, briony, peony, water-lily,
etc., are cut in slices, strung upon a thread,
and hung in a heat of about 90° to 100°.
Squills are scaled, threaded, aud dried around
the pipe of a stove, or in a hot closet. Rhu-
barb should be washed, to separate that mucous
principle which would otherwise render it
black and soft when powdered. Potatoes are
cut in slices and dried.
1890. To Transplant Large Shade
Trees. In the autumn, before the frost
comes on, dig a trench around the tree and
cut the roots, but not too near the tree. Re-
move the tree through the winter, when the
ground is frozen. Raise it up with the frozen
earth adhering to the roots. The whole mass
is easily raised with levers on to a strong sled,
and can then be drawn erect by means of
oxen or horses. Trees from 20 to 30 feet high
can be moved by this method, and they will
grow in the spring.
1 89 1 . To Brain Land in Level Places,
sink a well down to the first porous stratum.
The water from the upper soil will flow readily
into the well, especially if drain pipes or tiles
be laid in its direction.
HThe Extermination of
-*- "Vermin. The following compara-
tively few receipts and directions for destroy-
ing, trapping and driving away insects and
vermin of all kinds, have been selected as the
most efficacious, from a large amount of infor-
mation on the subject.
1893. To Catch Hats. Coyer a common
barrel with stiff, stout paper, tying the edge
round the barrel ; place a board so that the
rats may have easy access to the top ; sprinkle
cheese parings or other feed for the rats on
the paper for several days, until they begin to
think that they have a right to their daily
rations from this source; then place in the
bottom of the barrel a piece of rock about 6
or 7 inches high, filling with water until only
enough of it projects above the water for one
rat to lodge upon. Now replace the paper,
first cutting a cross in the middle, and the first
rat that comes on the ban-el top goes through
into the water, and climbs on the rock. The
192
THE EXTERMINATION OF VERMIN.
paper comes back to its original position, and
the second rat follows the first. Then begins
a fight for the possession of the dry place on
the stone, the noise of which attracts the
others, who share the same fate.
1894. Rat Trap. Fill a barrel about
half full of water. Make the cover i inch
smaller all around than the inside of the top
of the barrel. Drive a nail or wire on each
side of the cover, exactly opposite each other,
as a pivot, and fit in the barrel, so that a light
weight will readily tip the cover. Put the
bait on top, in a firm way, and place an
empty barrel or box near by. This is a simple,
but excellent trap.
1895. Bait to Catch Rats and Mice.
If a drop of oil of rhodium be poured upon
some bait in a common or wire spring trap,
and the trap be set in an infested locality, in
a short time the cage will be found occupied
by vermin. Rats and mice possess a great
liking for the oil, and will risk anything to
obtain it.
1896. To Catch Muskrats. Take a
steel trap with a single spring, set it Ik inches
under water, hang part of a sweet apple over
the foot plate, and chain the trap to a stake or
rush. The reason why the trap should be set
under water is that when the muskrat sees
the apple he will jump for it ; when he comes
down he gets his paws in the trap.
1897. Rat Poison. Kecent experiments
have shown that squills is an excellent poison
for rats. The powder should be mixed with
some fatty substance, and spread upon slices
of bread. The pulp of onions is also good.
Eats are very fond of either.
1 898. To Drive Rats from a Building.
Dissolve 2 ounces glue, 2 ounces tincture of
assafcetida, and 2 ounces potash in water, and
add \ ounce phosphorus to the mixture. Then
in a wire cage trap, baited with corn meal
scented with oil of anise, catch two or three
rats ; if they are very numerous, more will
be necessary ; singe the hair partly off these
in such a way as to hurt them as little as pos-
sible, then give them a slight coating with
the above mixture, heated warm; let them
loose into their holes, and there will be no
more trouble with the rats for mouths to
come. This mixture will last 2 years. Or :
Take chloride of lime, and scatter it dry all
around, and into their holes, and wherever
they haunt, and they will leave at once.
1899. Phosphorus Paste for Ver-
min. Introduce 1 drachm phosphorus into
a Florence flask, and pour over it 1 ounce
rectified spirit. Immerse the flask in ho1
water until the phosphorus is melted, then
put a well-fitting cork into the mouth o:
the flask, and shake briskly until cold. The
phosphorus is now reduced to a finely dividec
state. This, after pouring off the spirit, is to
be mixed in a mortar with 1 k ounces lard,
ounces flour and 1^ ounces brown sugar, pre-
viously mixed together, are now added, anc
the whole made into a paste with a little
water. Cheese may be substituted for sugar
when the paste is intended for rats or mice
There is said to be no danger whatever o:
spontaneous ignition, either during or after
the preparation of this paste.
1900. An Insect Killer and Destroyer
of Noxious Animals. The bisxilphide o
carbon seems to be useful in certain cases,
when it may be applied without inconvenience
to the human species. In an atmosphere con-
taining ^V of its volume, it has, according to
Cloe'z, a very rapid action on the animal or-
ganism, more rapidly, apparently, upon rats,
rabbits, <fcc., than upon birds and frogs. Cloez
ntroduced If ounces bisulphide in a culvert,
nd found within 20 yards from the place some
[0 dead rats.
1901. To Exterminate Cockroaches.
Borax is one of the best of roach extennina-
x>rs. There is something peculiar, either in
,he smell or touch of borax, which is certain
death to them. They will flee in terror from
t, and never appear again where it has once
)een placed. It has also the great advantage
of being perfectly harmless to human beings ;
lence there is no danger from poisoning. The
)orax should be pulverized and sprinkled
around the infested places.
1902. To Kill Cockroaches and Cro-
x>n Bugs. Boil 1 ounce poke-root in 1 pint
water until the strength is extracted; mix
the decoction with molasses and spread it in
jlates in the kitchen or other apartments
which are infested by these insects. Paris
*reen sprinkled around the apartments will
also exterminate them ; but should be used
with caution, as it is very poisonous.
1903. To Destroy Bed-bugs. Rub
the bedsteads in the joints with equal parts of
spirits of turpentine and kerosene oil, and the
racks of the surbase in rooms where there
are many. Filling up all the cracks with hard
soap is an excellent remedy. March and
April are the months when bedsteads should
be examined to kill all the eggs.
1904. To Destroy Bed-bugs in Paper-
ed Rooms. Clean the paint of the room
thoroughly, and set in the centre of the room
a dish containing 4 ounces of brimstone.
Light it and close the room as tight as possi-
ble, stopping the keyhole of the door with pa-
per, to keep the fumes of the brimstone in the
room. Let it remain for 3 or 4 hours, then .
open the windows and air thoroughly. The
brimstone will be found to have also bleached
the paint if it was a yellowish white.
1905. Bed-bug Poison. Mix together
2 ounces camphor, 4 ounces spirits of turpen-
tine, 1 ounce corrosive sublimate, and 1 pint
alcohol.
1906. To Kill Bed-bugs. Benzine or
gasoline will kill these pests as fast as they
can be reached. By using a spring-bottom
oiler, the fluid may be forced into cracks and
crevices more thoroughly than by any other
means. As this fluid is highly inflammable,
contact with fire must be avoided. The room
should be well aired and ventilated afterwards,
until the gas passes away. (Sec No. 346. )
1907. To Exterminate Bed-bugs.
"Wash the article infested with a weak solu-
tion of chloride of zinc. This is an effectual
banisher of these pests.
1908. Benzine as an Insect Destroyer.
A mixture of 10 parts benzine, 5 parts soap,
and 85 parts water, has been very successful-
ly used to destroy the parasites which infest
dogs. It has also been used with good results
in veterinary practice, as an application in
certain diseases of the skin ; and thus diluted,
is found to answer better than when used pure.
PREPARED PAPER.
193
1909. To Disperse Black Ants. A
few leaves of green wormwood, scattered
among the haunts of these troublesome in-
sects, is said to be effectual in dislodging them.
(See No. 1848.)
1910. To Exterminate Bed Ants.
Grease a plate with lard, and set it where
these insects abound. They prefer lard to any-
thing else, and will forsake sugar for it. Place
a few sticks around the plate for the ants to
climb up on. Occasionally turn the plate bot-
tom up over the fire, and the ants will fall in
with the melting lard. Reset the plate, and
in a short time you will catch them all. Pow-
dered borax sprinkled around the infested
places will exterminate both red and black
ants. (See No. 1901.)
1911. To Kill Flies. Beat up the yolk
of an egg with a table-spoonful each of mo-
lasses and black pepper finely ground ; set it
about in shallow plates and the flies will be
rapidly killed. A sweetened infusion of
quassia will answer the same purpose. Dis-
solve 1 drachm extract of quassia m a gill of
water, mix with £ gill molasses and pour the
mixture on a flat dish where the flies have
access. The quassia acts on them like a nar-
cotic.
1912. Fly Poison. Boil i ounce small
chips of quassia in 1 pint water ; add 4 ounces
molasses. Flies drink this with avidity, and
are soon destroyed by it.
1913. To Banish Fleas. The oil of
pennyroyal will certainly drive them off; but
a cheaper method, where the herb flourishes,
is to dip dogs and cats into a decoction of it
once a week. Mow the herb and scatter it
in the beds of the pigs once a mouth. "Where
the herb cannot be got, the oil may be pro-
cured. In this case, saturate strings with it
and tie them around the necks of dogs and
cats, pour a little on the back and about the
ears of hogs, which you can do while they are
feeding, without touching them. By repeat-
ing these applications every 12 or 15 days, the
fleas will leave the animals. Strings saturated
with the oil of pennyroyal, and tied around
the neck and tail of horses, will drive off lice ;
the strings should be saturated once a day.
1914. To Exterminate Fleas. Sprinkle
chamomile flowers in the beds, and the fleas
will leave.
1915. An Excellent Flea Trap. If
you should happen to have the consciousness
of having a flea about your person, you have
but to introduce, before getting into bed, a
piece of new flannel between the sheets, and
you may depend on finding yourself forsaken
for tiie flannel.
1916. To Prevent the Attacks of
Gnats. The best preventive against gnats,
as well as the best cure for their stings, is
camphor.
1917. To Clear a Room of Mosqui-
toes. Take of gum camphor a piece about £
the size of an egg, and evaporate it by placing
it in a tin vessel, and holding it over a lamp
or candle, taking care that it does not ignite.
The smoke will soon fill the room, and expel
the mosquitoes.
1918. To Keep Away Mosquitoes.
Dip a piece of sponge or flannel in camphor-
ated spirits, and make it fast to the top
of the bedstead. A decoction of pennyroyal,
or some of the bruised leaves, rubbed on the
exposed parts, will effectually keep off those
troublesome insects.
1919. To Destroy Vermin in Child-
ren's Heads. Take 1 ounce each vinegar
and stavesacre, i ounce each honey and sul-
phur, and 2 ounces sweet oil. Make into a
liniment, and rub the head with it. Insects
are immediately suffocated by benzine. Those
sometimes found in the heads of human be-
ings are destroyed by it at once, without any
inconvenient result being perceived. It has
been employed very successfully in banish-
ing the insects which infest domestic animals,
etc. (See No. 1906.) The use of larkspur
seed for the destruction of the insects infest-
ing the human head is a time-honored appli-
cation among country people — beds of the
plant being cultivated frequently for the ex-
press purpose of furnishing material for the
decoction. The efficiency of this remedy
seems to depend on the presence of the alka-
loid called delphine, which appears to be a
poison especially fatal to insects.
1920. To Destroy Body Vermin.
Apply stavesacre ointment or red precipitate.
1921. To Clean Canary Birds. These
pretty things are often covered with lice, and
may be effectually relieved of them by placing
a clean white cloth over their cage at night.
In the morning it will be covered with small
red spots, so small as hardly to be seen,
except by the aid of a glass ; these are the
lice, a source of great annoyance to the birds.
1922. Lice on Poultry. If infested
with lice, damp the skin under the feathers
with water, then sprinkle a little sulphur on
the skin. If the bird be covered with insects
or parasites, they will all disappear in the
course of 12 hours.
1923. Tp Drive Flies from Stables.
Scatter chloride of lime on a board in a stable,
to remove all kinds of flies, but more especial-
ly biting flies. Sprinkling beds of vegetables
with even a weak solution, effectually pre-
serves them from caterpillars, slugs, <fcc. A
paste of 1 part powdered chloride of lime and
^ part of some fatty matter placed in a narrow
band round the trunk of the tree, prevents in-
sects from creeping up it. Even rats, mice,
cockroaches, and crickets flee from it.
1924. To Keep Flies from Horses.
Procure a bunch of smartweed, and bruise it
to cause the juice to exude. Rub the animal
thoroughly with the bunch of bruised weed,
especially on the legs, neck, and ears. Neither
flies or other insects will trouble him for 24
hours. The process should be repeated eveiy
day. A very convenient way of using it, is
to make a strong infusion by boiling the weed
a few minutes in water. When cold it can be
conveniently applied with a sponge or brush.
Smartweed is found growing in every section
of the country, usually on wet ground near
highways.
Prepared Paper. Paper fre-
quently requires some special prepara-
tion to fit it for many purposes for which
it would be useless in its original state. The
following methods of preparing paper will bo
found useful, and in some cases indispensable,
for reference.
194:
PREPARED PAPER.
1926. To Make Transfer Paper. To
prepare transfer paper, take some thin post
or tissue paper, rub the surface well with
black lead, vermilion, red chalk, or any color-
ing matter; wipe this preparation well off
with a piece of clean rag, and it will be ready
for use.
1927. To Make Tracing Paper with
Petroleum. Saturate ordinary writing paper
with petroleum by means ofSa brush, then
wipe it off until it is dry. This makes a
tracing paper equal to the manufactured
article, for all ordinary purposes. It was
discovered by Mr. Hansel/ an architect at
jS"eustadt.
1928. To Make Tracing Paper with
Benzine. If paper be damped with pure
and fresh distilled benzine, it at once assumes
a transparency, and permits of the tracing be-
ing made, and of ink or water colors being
used on its surface without any running.
The paper resumes its opacity as the benzine
evaporates, and if the drawing is not then
completed, the requisite portion of the paper
must be again damped with benzine. This
new discovery of the properties of benzine
will prove of great service to many branches
of the art profession, in allowing the use of
stiff' paper where formerly only a slight tissue
could be used.
1929. To Make Transparent or Tra-
cing Paper. Dissolve a piece of white bees'
wax, about the size of a walnut, in •£ pint
spirits of turpentine ; then having procured
some very fine white, woven tissue paper, lay
it on a clean board, and, with a soft brush
dipped in this liquid, go over one side, and
then turn it over and apply it to the other ;
hang it up in a place free from dust to dry.
It will be ready for use in a few days. Some
add a small quantity of resin, or use resin in-
stead of wax.
1930. To Make Tracing Paper. Lay
open a quire of paper, of large size, and apply
with a clean sash tool a coat of varnish, made
of equal parts of Canada balsam and oil of
turpentine, to the upper surface of the first
sheet, then hang it on a line, and repeat the
operation on fresh sheets until the proper
quantity is finished. If not sufficiently trans-
parent, a second coat of varnish may be ap-
plied as soon as the first has become quite
dry.
1931. Iridescent Paper. Boil in wa-
ter, 8 parts nut-galls, 5 parts sulphate of iron,
4 parts each sal ammoniac and sulphate of in-
digo, and £ part gum-arabic. "Wash the paper
in this decoction, and then expose it to am-
monia.
1932. To Powder Glass. Heat the
glass red-hot, throw it into cold water ; dry,
and pulverize it, coarse or fine as required, in
an iron mortar. It is used to filter acids ; is
glued upon paper or muslin for polishing ; also
to rub down corns upon the feet, after they
have well soaked and dried.
1933. To Make Glass Paper or Cloth.
Powder the glass (that with a greenish hue
is the best), and sift it through a very fine
wire sieve, to separate the finest portion of
the powder ; this is for the smoothest degree
of glass paper; sift the remainder successively
through sieves gradually increasing in coarse-
ness, to suit the different degrees of the glass
paper required; keep the result of each sifting
separate. Then smooth on both sides, with
pumice stone, any good tough paper, and
tack it on a board ; a tolerably fine quality
of muslin is far preferable to paper. If large
sheets are used it is better to glue the edges
on a frame (similar to a small quilting frame),
and when dry, damp the paper or muslin and
stretch it, in the same manner as the muslin
is strained for sized roller blinds. Give the
surface a coating of strong glue size, and im-
mediately dust the glass of the required fine-
ness equally and thoroughly all over, using
the same sieve that was used to separate it
from the rest of the powdered glass. "When
dry, throw off the surplus glass for future use.
1934. To Make Stone Paper. As, in
cleaning wood-work,, particularly pine and
other soft woods, one process is sometimes
found to answer better than another, we may
describe the manner of manufacturing a stone
paper, which, in some cases, will be preferred
to sand paper, as it produces a good face, and
is less liable to scratch the work. Having
prepared the paper as described in the last re-
ceipt, take a quantity of powdered pumice
stone, and sift it over the paper through a
sieve of moderate fineness. "When the sur-
face has hardened, repeat the process till a
tolerably thick coat has been formed upon the
paper, which, when dry, will be fit for use.
1 935. To Make Emery Paper or Cloth.
This is prepared in precisely the same man-
ner as glass paper (see No. 1933), using
emery instead of glass.
1936. Phenyl Paper. This article
would be useful for packing meat and other
substances liable to decay. (See No. 1614.)
It can be prepared by fusing 5 parts stearic
acid at a gentle heat, mixing well with 2
parts carbolic acid and 5 parts melted- paraf-
fine, and stirring until the whole has become
solid, and applying it to paper in the same
manner as waxed paper is made. (See No.
1938.)
1937. Solvent for Silk, Paper, Sec.
The ammonio-oxide of copper is a solvent for
silk, paper, and the cellular tissue of plants.
If its action be limited to a few moments it
converts the surfaces into a gelatinous mass.
1938. To Make Waxed Paper. Take
cartridge or other paper, place it on a hot
iron and rub it with bees' wax, or make a so-
lution of the wax in turpentine, and apply it
with a brush. It is generally prepared on a
large scale by taking a quire of paper and
opening it flat upon a table, and then going
over it quickly with a very hot smoothing-iron,
against which is held a piece of wax, which,
melting, runs down upon the paper and is
absorbed by it. A little practice will soon
determine the amount of wax that should be
melted off from time to time. When the
upper sheet is saturated it is taken off, and
the one below is treated in a similar manner.
Any excess of wax applied in the first instance
readily penetrates through to the lower layers.
Useful for making water or air-proof pipes,
for chemical experiments, also for tying up
the necks of bottles, covering preserve jars,
and for enveloping tobacco and other substan-
ces that require to be kept from the air, re-
placing generally tin-foil and similar sub-
stances.
PREPARED PAPER.
195
1939. To Make Oiled Paper. Brush
sheets of paper over with boiled oil, ill which
dissolve a little shellac carefully over a slow
fire, and suspend them on a line until dry.
"Waterproof. Employed to tie over pots and
jars, and to wrap up paste blacking, &c.
1940. Oiled Paper as a Substitute for
Oiled Silk. Boiled linseed oil is reboiled
with litharge, acetate of lead, sulphate of
zinc, and burnt umber, an ounce of each to a
gallon. The sheet of paper being laid on a
square board, it is well covered with this
mixture. The first sheet is covered on both
sides ; the second, placed on this, receives one
coating ; and so on to 20 or 50. Separate and
hang up to dry.
1941. To Make Paper Fire and Wa-
terproof. Take 26 ounces alum, and 4
ounces white soap, and dissolve them in a
quart of water; into another vessel dissolve
2 ounces gum-arabic and 1 ounce glue, in the
same quantity of water as the former, and
add the two solutions together, which is now
to be kept warm, and the paper intended to
be made waterproof dipped into it, passed
between rollers, and dried ; or, without the use
of rollers, the paper may be suspended until
it has perfectly dripped, and then dried. The
alum, soap, glue, and gum, form a kind of
artificial leather, which protects the surface
of the paper from the action of water, and
also renders it somewhat fireproof. A second
immersion makes it still better.
1942. To Make Fireproof Paper.
Take a solution of alum and dip the paper
into it, then throw it over a line to dry. This
is suitable to all sorts of paper, whether plain
or colored, as well as textile fabrics. Try a
slip of the paper in the flame of a candle, and
if not sufficiently prepared, dip and try it a
second time.
1943. To Make Fireproof Paper.
Newspapers may be rendered fireproof by
dipping into a solution of soluble glass of 25°
Baurne ; next neutralizing the alkali by dilu-
ted muriatic acid of 10° Baume while hot,
and drying by the atmosphere. Fire cannot
then destroy the texture of the paper.
1944. To Make Paper Waterproof.
Melt in 10 pints hot water, 30 ounces glue,
gelatine or size, and 3 ounces gum-arabic. In
another 30 pints hot water, melt 20 ounces
soap and 4 .pounds alum; mix both liquids
together in one pot. This constitutes compo-
sition No. 1. In another pot heat •£ gallon
benzole and 1 gallon paraffine, and melt in it
24 ounces resin ; let it boil until it attains a
moderate degree of consistency. To these
materials, resin, oil, and copal or mastic var-
nish may, in some cases, be added. This is
composition No. 2. First dip the article to be
waterproof into the composition No. 1 in a
heated state, and then dry it. Next apply
composition No. 2, in a cooled state, with a
brush, or in any other convenient manner.
1945. Papier-Mache. A plastic mate-
rial, formed of cuttings of white or brown
paper, boiled in water, beaten to a paste in a
mortar, and then mixed with a solution of
gum-arabic in size, to give tenacity. It is
variously manufactured by being pressed into
oiled moulds, afterwards dried, covered with
a mixture of size and lamp-black, or other-
wise ornamented, and varnished.
1946. To Detect the Presence of
Plaster in Paper. Calcine the paper in a
close vessel, and dilute the residue with vine-
gar, in a silver spoon ; if sulphuretted hydro-
gen is disengaged, which blackens the spoon,
the presence of a sulphate (plaster) will be
shown. This adulteration has lately become
very common among the paper-makers, with
the view of increasing the weight.
1947. To Detect Woody Fibre in
Paper. The paper is touched with ordinary
strong nitric acid. If wood fibre is present
the paper will be colored brown, especially on
warming.
1948. Magic Copying Paper. To
make black paper, take lamp-black mixed
with cold lard. Eed paper — Venetian red
mixed with lard. Blue paper — Prussian blue
mixed with lard. Green paper — chrome green
mixed with lard. The above ingredients to
be mixed to the consistency of thick paste,
and applied to the paper with a rag. Then
take a flannel rag, and rub until all the color
ceases coming off. These sheets, alternated
with writing paper and written on with a
solid pen, produce 2 or 3 copies of a letter at
once.
1949. Manifold Copying Process.
This is a method patented by Mr. Underwood,
of London, for taking copies of writing by
pressure ; . by this means as many as twenty
copies or more of a letter or other writing can
be obtained.
The copying paper is prepared by being
wetted with a solution of 200 grains of the
yellow or neutral chromate of potash in 1 gal-
lon of distilled water. This paper can be
used immediately, or may be dried, and
damped with water when required for use.
The copying ink to be used for the original
writing must be made by dissolving (in a
water-bath) about 6 pounds pure extract of
logwood in 1 gallon distilled water.
Damp 6 sheets of the prepared paper, and
remove all superfluous moisture with good
blotting paper, place the original writing on
the upper sheet, and put in the copying-press
for about half a minute; then remove the
original and substitute in its place 6 more
damp sheets of the paper, and press for a
quarter of an hour. Then take the original
again and lay it on the top of 5 more damped
sheets of the paper, and press for about two
minutes ; finally remove the original, and in its
place put 3 more sheets of the paper, then
press for a quarter of an hour. This process
will give twenty copies. If more than twenty
copies are to be made, the writing of the
original should, before the ink is quite dry, be
dusted over with a powder composed of 5
parts extract of logwood, 1 part powdered
gum-arabic, and 1 part powdered gum-traga-
canth.
1950. Process for Copying Very Old
Writings. Niepec St. Victor gives a new-
process for copying very old writings. Ordi-
nary copying paper is used, but is wetted with
a thin solution of glucose or honey instead
of water. On coming out of the press the
paper is exposed to strong ammonia, which"
brings out very clearly lines otherwise almost
illegible.
1951. To Prepare Paper for Varnish-
ing. To prevent the absorption of varnish,
196
PREPARED PAPER.
and injury to any color or design on the pa-
per, it is necessary to first give it 2 or 3 coats
of size. The best size for white or delicate
colors is made by dissolving a little isinglass
in boiling water, or by boiling some clean
Earchment cuttings until they form a clear so-
ition; then strain through a piece of clean
muslin. It may be applied with a clean soft
paint-brush, the first coat, especially, very
lightly. The best brush for this purpose is
the kind used by varnishers for giving the
finishing flow coats of varnish, wide, flat and
soft ; or, where there is much danger of injur-
ing a design, and the paper article will allow
of it, it is a good plan for the first coat, to
pour the solution into a wide, flat dish, and
pass the paper through it once, and back
again, and then hang it up to dry. For less
delicate purposes, a little light-colored glue,
soaked over night in enough water to cover it,
and then dissolved by heat, adding hot water
enough to dilute it sufficiently, will make an
excellent sizing.
1952. To Size Paper. The paper must
be passed or steeped in a mixture of glue and
alum water. For transparent or semi-trans-
parent paper, a mixture of starch, or dextrine
and alum.
1953. Albuminous Size. Beat up the
white of an egg with twice its bulk of cold
water, until well incorporated. Used as a
varnish for leather binding and kid gloves;
also to size drawing paper.
1954. Pounce. Powdered gum sanda-
rac generally passes under this name; it is
used to prepare parchment for writing on, and
to prevent ink from spreading on paper after
erasure. Powdered cuttle-fish bone is occa-
sionally used in the same way. Packers rub
the surface of porous and greasy wood with a
pounce consisting of whiting or powdered
resin, to make it bear the ink. The colored
powders (usually ultramarine) used by pat-
tern drawers, for sprinkling over pricked pa-
pers, are also called pounce.
1955. Lithographic Paper. In order
to prevent the ink tracings or design from ad-
hering to and sinking into the paper, which
would render a perfect transfer to the stone
impossible, the surface of the paper requires
proper preparation.
1956. To Prepare Lithographic Pa-
per. Lay on the paper 3 successive coats of
sheep-foot jelly, 1 layer of cold white starch,
and 1 layer of gamboge. The first layer is
applied with a sponge dipped in a hot solu-
tion of the jelly, thinly, but very evenly, over
the whole surface ; the next 2 coats are laid
on in succession, each previous coat being first
allowed to dry. The layer of starch, and then
the coat of gamboge, are each applied with a
sponge in the same way as the jelly. "When
the paper is dry it must be smoothed by pass-
ing it through the lithographic press; the
smoother it becomes, the better. The trans-
fer of traces from the gamboge surface of
paper thus prepared is perfect.
The gamboge must be dissolved the same
day it is used, as it becomes oily by standing.
The starch should be a day old, and the skin
removed from its surface.
1957. Lithographic Paper. Take
rather strong, unsized paper, and cover it
with a varnish composed of 120 parts starch,
40 parts gum-arabic and 20 parts alum. Make
a moderate paste of the starch by boiling,
dissolve the gum and alum separately, and
then mix all together. "When well mixed,
apply hot with a flat, smooth brush, to the
leaves of paper. Then dry and smooth by
passing under the scraper of the lithographic
press.
1958. Bernard and Delarne's Litho-
graphic Crayons. Melt 4 parts pure white
wax over a slow fire; stir m by degrees 2
parts gum lac, broken into small pieces; next
mix in 2 parts dried soap (made of tallow and
soda), reduced to fine shavings ; then stir in
1 part oil copal varnish into which 1 part
lampblack has been previously ground. Con-
tinue to heat and stir until the paste has ac-
quired a proper consistence, which can be
ascertained by forming a crayon with it in a
mould, and allowing it to become cold. The
mould should be first wiped with a greased
rag.
Lasteyrie adopts a somewhat different for-
mula for his crayons : Dried white tallow
soap, 6 parts; white wax, 6 parts; lampblack,
1 part. The soap and tallow are to be put
into a small goblet and covered up. "When
the whole is thoroughly fused by heat, and
no clots remain, the black is gradually sprin-
kled in with careful stirring.
1959. Rouget's Method of Preserv-
ing Pencil Drawings. This invention con-
sists in fixing drawings, tracings, or sketches,
by directly projecting on these latter any suit-
able adhesive liquid reduced to a fine spray,
or in what is commonly called the atomized or
pulverized state, by causing the liquid to pass
rapidly under pressure through one or more
capillary tubes or openings. By this method
the defects of the transudation process are
entirely done away with, besides which the
operation is executed in less time, and may
be performed at once by the artist without
the slightest difficulty. For the fixing liquid,
any colorless, or nearly colorless liquid, which
allows of being atomized, and which, after
becoming dry, causes the particles of the
charcoal, or other drawing materials made use
of, to adhere sufficiently firmly to the paper
or other drawing surface, may serve for the
purpose. Thus, for instance, a liquid which
has given the most satisfactory results is ob-
tained by adding to a solution of 3 ounces
white sugar candy and 2 ounces white shellac,
in about 2 pints spirits of wine, a decoction
of about 1 ounce fucus crispus (Irish moss)
in 1 pint distilled water.
1960. To Fix Pencil or Chalk Draw-
ings. Lay the drawing on its face, stretch it
tightly on a board with drawing pins, and
give the back 2 or 3 coats of a solution of 5
parts isinglass, or gum-arabic, in 12 parts
water, using a varnisher's flow brush, and
allowing each coat to dry before laying on the
next. "When dry, turn the drawing over, face
upwards, and give it 1 or 2 coats in the same
manner. This will usually be sufficient to
fix the drawing, but the addition of 1 or 2
coats of a solution of 4 parts Canada balsam,
in 5 parts turpentine, will afford still further
protection.
1 961 . To Fix Pencil or Crayon Draw-
ings. A convenient method of fixing pencil
or crayon drawings consists in moistening the
PEEPAEED PAPER.
197
back of the sheet with a solution of bleached
shellac in alcohol, care being taken not to
have the solution either too concentrated or
too thin, but such as will flow readily on the
Eaper, making it transparent when moist, and
javing no spots behind on evaporation. In
this way the drawings will become perma-
nently fixed, and may afterward be painted in
water- colors so as to produce a very excellent
effect.
1962. To Fix Pencil Drawings. A
simple method, and sufficient for general*pur-
poses, is to put into a large flat dish, a mixture
of equal parts milk and water. The back of
the drawing should be floated over the surface
of the milk and water once or twice, according
to the thickness of the paper, sufficient to
wet it through, but not enough to allow any
of the liquid to run on the surface of the
drawing. Pin it on a line to dry. Some pre-
fer using pure milk.
1963. To Take Creases out of Draw-
ing Paper or Engravings. Lay the paper
or engraving, face downwards, on a sheet
of smooth, unsized white paper; cover it
with another sheet of the same, very slight-
ly damped, and iron with a moderately warm
flat iron.
1964. To Make Parchment Trans-
parent. Soak a thin skin of parchment in a
strong lye of wood ashes, often wringing it
out till you find it becomes transparent ; then
strain it on a frame, and let it dry. This will
be much improved if, after it is dry, it receives
a coat, on both sides, of clear mastic varnish,
diluted with spirits of turpentine.
1965. To Make Artificial Parchment.
De la Kue's patent. Strong unsized paper is
immersed for a few seconds in oil of vitriol,
diluted with half its volume of water. It is
then washed in pure water or weak ammonia
water. It strongly resembles animal parch-
ment, and is used for the same purposes.
The acid solution must be exactly of the
strength indicated, and not warmer than the
surrounding atmosphere.
1966. To Paste Parchment Paper.
Thick, smooth paper does not generally hold
long when pasted together or on wood. This
difficulty is easily overcome. If the surface
of that part of the paper which is to be joined
be first moistened with alcohol or brandy, and
the glue or paste then be applied, the union
will be perfect. A piece of very thin paper
inserted between the surfaces of the parch-
ment paper will also make a firm joint. Glue
or paste should be used, as gum-arabic will not
answer.
1 967. New Method of Making Parch-
ment Paper. An improved method of pre-
paring this substance, consists in using the
commercial oil of vitriol in an undiluted state.
The paper is first passed through a solution of
alum, and thoroughly dried, previous to its
immersion, thus preventing any undue action
of the corrosive principle of the vitriol. After
the application of the acid, the paper is passed
into a vat of water, and then through an alka-
line bath, to be again washed. Written and
printed paper may undergo this improved pro-
cess without materially affecting the clearness
and distinctness of the letters, and the paper
retains all its qualities, even after being wetted
several times in succession, while paper pre-
pared in the usual manner loses, to a great
extent, its pliancy, and becomes hard and
stiff.
1968. Papyrine. Dip white unsized
paper for i a minute in strong sulphuric acid,
and afterwards in water containing a little
ammonia. When dried it has the toughness
and appearance of parchment.
1969. To Color Parchment. The only
color given to parchment is green. Boil 8
parts cream of tartar and 30 parts crystallized
verdigris, in 500 parts water ; when this solu-
tion is cold, pour into it 4 parts nitric acid.
Moisten the parchment with a brush, and then
apply the above liquid evenly over its surface.
The necessary surface finish is given with
white of eggs, or mucilage of gum-arabic.
1970. Composition for Drawing
Crayons. Take 6 parts shellac, 4 parts
spirit of wine, 2 parts turpentine, 12 parts of
coloring powder, such as Prussian blue, orpi-
ment, white lead, vermilion, &c., and 12 parts
clay. The clay must be thoroughly washed,
passed through a hair sieve and dried ; it is
then well incorporated by trituration with the
shellac (previously dissolved in the spirits of
wine), the turpentine and the coloring pig-
ment. The doughy mass is pressed in proper
moulds so as to acquire the desired shape, and
then dried by stove heat.
1971. Charcoal Crayons. Saw the
finest-grained, softest, and blackest pieces of
charcoal, into slips of the size required, put
them into a pipkin of melted wax, and allow
them to macerate over a slow fire for half 3n
hour, then take them out and lay them on
blotting-paper to dry. The above process
may also be employed for red and black chalk.
Drawings made with these cravons are very
permanent, and if warmed slightly on the
wrong side, the lines will adhere and become
as durable as ink. These crayons may also
be made by simply shaping the charcoal with
a knife. Willow charcoal should be used for
this purpose.
1972. To Clean Engravings. Secure
the engraving with drawing pins on a smooth
board, and cover it thinly with common salt,
finely powdered ; pour and squeeze lemon
juice upon this salt, so as to dissolve a con-
siderable portion of it. N"ow elevate one end
of the board, that it may form an angle of
about 45° with the horizon. Pour lastly on
the engraving boiling water from a tea-kettle,
until the salt and lemon juice be all washed
off; the engraving will then appear perfectly
clean, and free from stains. It must be dried
gradually, on the same board, or on some
smooth surface. (See Nos. 411, ^c.)
1973. To Clean Printed Paper and
Picture Prints. Septimus Piesse gives the
following receipt for that purpose : Fasten
the paper to a board with button drawing
pins, then wash it with water in which is
dissolved an ounce of carbonate of ammonia
to every pint of water. This do with care,
employing a camePs-hair brush for the pur-
pose. Then rinse the paper well with plenty
of fresh water. When dry, repeat the same
process for the reverse side of the paper.
;N"ow wet the paper with water made sour
with white vinegar. Finally wet the paper
with water containing a little bleaching pow-
der, and again rinse with clean water; then
198
IVOET, ALABASTER, ETC.
iron.
1985.
dry it by exposure to air and sunshine. It ! ployed for woolens, after being freed from dirt
will become white, excepting where printed. "--1 1™t -1-1 '-"
To stiffen the print give it a coat of parchment
size. Most valuable prints have been thus
restored.
1974. To Transfer Engravings to
Paper. Place the engraving a few seconds
over the vapor of iodine. Dip a slip of white
paper in a weak solution of starch, and, when
dry, in a weak solution of oil of vitriol. When
again dry, lay a slip upon the engraving, and
place both for a few minutes under a press.
The engraving will be reproduced in all its
delicacy and finish.
1975. To Print Engravings on Plas-
ter. Cover the engraved plate with ink, and
polish its surface in the usual way ; then put
a wall of paper round it, and, when com-
pleted, pour in some finely-powdered plaster
of Paris mixed in water; jerk the plate re-
peatedly, to allow the air bubbles to fly up-
wards, and let it stand 1 hour ; then take the
cast off the plate, and a very perfect impres-
sion will be the result.
1976. Hydrographic Paper. This is
a name given to paper so prepared, that, when
written upon with water, or some other color-
less fluid, instead of ink, the characters will
become visible.
1977. To Write Black Characters
with Water. Thoroughly dry and reduce
to a very fine powder a mixture of 4 parts
nut-galls, and 1 part calcined sulphate of iron ;
rub it over the surface of the paper, then
forcing it into the pores by powerful pressure ;
brush off the loose portion, and a pen dipped
in water will write black.
1978. To Write Blue
Characters
with Water. Prepare the paper with a
mixture of sesquisulphate of iron and ferrocy-
anide of potassium, by the same method as
the last receipt. Write with water as before,
and the characters will appear blue.
1979. To Produce Brown Writing
with Water. Instead of the sulphate of
iron in the last receipt, use sulphate of cop-
per ; and characters written with watgr will
be reddish-brown.
1980. To Write Blue with a Cotorless
Fluid. Wet the paper with a solution of
ferrocyanide of potassium, and dry it again ;
write on it with a pen dipped in a solution of
sesquisulphate of iron, and the writing will
be blue.
Ivory, Alabaster, &c. The
folllowing receipts relate to the manipu-
lation of ivory, bone, alabaster, meerschaum,
horn, tortoise-shell, pearl, and marble.
1982. To Color or Dye Ivory or Bone.
With regard to dyeing ivory, it may in gen-
eral be observed, that the colors penetrate
better before the surface is polished than after-
wards. Should any dark spots appear, they
may be cleared up by rubbing them with
chalk ; after which the ivory should be dyed
once more, to produce a perfect uniformity of
shade. On taking it out of the boiling hot
dye bath, it should be plunged immediately
into cold water, to prevent the chance of fis-
sures being caused by the heat. Ivory may
be dyed by any of the ordinary methods em-
and grease ; but more quickly as follows :
1983. To Dye Ivory Black. The
ivory, being well washed in an alkaline lye, is
steeped in a weak neutral solution of nitrate
of silver, and then exposed to the light, or
dried and dipped into a weak solution of hy-
drosulphuret of ammonia.
1984. To Dye Ivory Deep Black. A
still finer and deeper black may be obtained
by boiling the ivory for some time in a strain-
ed decoction of logwood, and then steeping it
in a solution of red sulphate, or red acetate of
To Dye Ivory Red. Make an
infusion of cochineal in water of ammonia,
then immerse the pieces therein, having pre-
viously soaked them for a few minutes in wa-
ter very slightly acidulated with aquafortis.
1986. 'Fine Bed Dye for Ivory. A
beautiful red color may be imparted to ivory
thus : Take 4 parts, by weight, picric acid,
and dissolve in 250 parts boiling water ; add,
after cooling, 8 parts liquid ammonia. Dis-
solve also 2 parts crystallized fuchsine (ma-
genta) in 45 parts alcohol, dilute with 375
parts hot water, and next add 50 parts ammo-
nia. As soon as the red color of the magenta
solution has disappeared, the two solutions
are mixed together. Ivory and bone should
be placed in very weak nitric or hydrochloric
acids before being immersed in the ammonia-
cal liquid ; wood cannot be dyed by this li-
quid unless it has been previously painted
over with paste made from flour. When to
the ammoniacal liquid some gelatine solution
be added, it may serve as a red ink which
does not attack steel pens. By varying the
proportions of the magenta and picric acid,
the tints obtained may be varied from a bluish
red to a bright orange-red. The colors do not
appear until the ammonia is evaporated.
1987. To Dye Ivory Blue. Steep it in
a weak solution of sulphate of indigo which
has been nearly neutralized with salt of tartar;
or in a solution of Prussian blue. A. still bet-
ter plan is to steep in the dyer's green indigo
vat ; or, insert the ivory for 15 to 20 minutes
in diluted muriatic acid (•£ ounce of acid for 1
pound of water, having the taste of a good
vinegar), and from this acidulated water trans-
fer the ivory into a more or less concentrated
solution of indigo-carmine (soluble indigo),
and keep it in that solution until the ivory
has assumed a uniform blue color ; then dry
and polish.
1988. To Dye Ivory Purple. Steep
in a weak neutral solution of terchloride of
gold, and then expose it to the light. Or,
soak the ivory in a solution of sal ammoniac
into 4 times its weight of nitrons acid.
1989. To Dye Ivory Green. Dissolve
verdigris in vinegar, and steep the pieces
therein for a short time, observing to use a
glass or stoneware vessel ; or in a solution of
verdigris, 2 parts, and sal ammoniac, 1 part, in
soft water; or, dye the ivory blue by the
third receipt for that purpose, and then insert
in a solution of picric acid, as prescribed for
the dark lemon color. (See No. 1991.)
1990. To Dye Ivory Yellow. Steep
the ivory in a bath of neutral chromate of
potash, and afterwards in a boiling solution of
acetate of lead.
IVORY, ALABASTEE, ETC.
199
Or : Steep the pieces for 24 hours in a solu
tion of sugar of lead, then take them out, anc
when dry, immerse them in a solution of chro
mate of potassa.
Or : Dissolve as much of the best orpinien
in water of ammonia or hartshorn as it wil.
take up, then steep the pieces therein for some
hours ; lastly, take them out and dry them
when they will turn yellow.
1991. To Dye Ivory Dark Lemon,
Dissolve J ounce picric acid in •£ ounce boiling
water. Dilute -J- ounce strong sulphuric acic
with J ounce hot water, by pouring the acic
gradually into the water. Insert the ivory in
the acidulated water, turn it around repeated
ly, in order to admit the acid to all parts, re-
move the ivory from the fluid and dry it
Then insert the dried ivory in the boiling so-
lution of picric acid, turn it also around, anc
leave it in the solution until all parts appear
of a uniform yellow color. Then remove i1
from the solution of picric acid, dry, and pol-
ish the ivory with soap water and finely levi-
gated chalk. After the polishing the ivory
possesses a permanent dark lemon-yellow
color.
1992. To Dye Ivory Violet. Dye red,
and afterwards blue ; or place the ivory in a
highly-diluted solution of tin, and boil in the
logwood bath.
1993. • Aniline Dyes for Ivory. Any
of these colors give a hne and permanent col-
or to ivory by immersion.
1994. To Make Ivory Flexible. Ivory
is rendered flexible by immersion in a solution
of pure phosphoric acid (specific gravity 1.13)
until it loses, or partially loses its opacity,
when it is washed in clean cold water, and
dried. In this state it is as flexible as leather,
but gradually hardens by exposure to dry air.
Immersion in hot water, however, restores its
softness and pliancy. The following method
may also be employed : Put the ivory to
soak in 3 ounces nitric acid mixed with 15
ounces water. In 3 or 4 days the ivory will be
soft.
1995. To Dye Ivory when Softened.
If it is desired to dye ivory when thus soften-
ed, dissolve, in spirits of wine, such color as
may be desired to use. "When the spirits of
wine is sufficiently tinged with the color,
plunge in the ivory, and leave it there till it is
dyed to suit.
'1996. To Harden Ivory. To harden
ivory after it has been softened, wrap it up in
a sheet of white paper, cover it with dry, de-
crepitated salt, and lay it by for 24 hours,
when it will be restored to its original hard-
ness.
1997. To Bleach. Ivory. Ivory is
whitened or bleached by rubbing it with fine-
ly powdered pumice-stone and water, and ex-
posing it to the sun whilst still moist, under
a glass shade, to prevent desiccation and the
occurrence of cracks; observing to repeat
the process until a proper effect is produced.
Ivory may also be bleached by immersion for
a short time in water holding a little sulphur-
ous acid, chloride of lime, or chlorine in solu-
tion; or by exposure to the fumes of burning
sulphur, largely diluted with air. In many
cases where, as in piano keys, the ivory can-
not be removed, the polishing process will be
found partially successful.
1998. To Restore Yellow Ivory to
its Original Whiteness. A thin lime-
paste is prepared in a pot, and heated over a
stove; the ivory is placed in this and left
until white, when it is taken out, dried, and
polished.
1999. To Bleach Articles made of
Ivory. This process is recommended by Dr.
J. Artus. The objects made of this substance
are first placed into a solution containing 11£
ounces carbonate of soda in crystals, and 45f
ounces water. After having been left in this
fluid for 2 days, the iyory objects are well
washed in pure water, and then immersed into
a solution composed of 17 ounces sulphite of
soda, and 45£ ounces water, and kept therein
for 5 or 6 days, after which time there is
added to the liquid, yet containing the ivory
objects, 1 ounce hydrochloric acid diluted
with 5i ounces water. After the acid has
been added, the vessel (glass or porcelain)
containing the liquid and ivory should be
covered and left . standing for from 24 to 36
hours, after which time the ivory is taken out,
washed in clean water, and dried. The quan-
tities of ingredients herein specified suffice for
22-J- ounces of ivory,
2000. To Polish Ivory. If ivory be
polished with putty-powder and water, by
means of a rubber made of hat, it will in a
short time produce a fine gloss. Or, set the
ivory in the turner's wheel, and, after having
worked it, take some rushes and pumice-stone,
mix a subtle powder with water, and rub till
it becomes perfectly smooth ; then heat it by
turning it over a piece of linen or sheepskin,
and when hot rub it with a little whitening
diluted with olive oil; then rub it with a little
dry whitening alone, and finally with a piece
of soft white rag, and the ivory will look re-
markably white.
2001. Fluid for Marking; Ivory.
Take nitrate of silver, 2 parts ; nitric acid, 1
part ; water, 7 parts ; mix.
2002. Etching Fluid for Ivory. Take
of diluted sulphuric acid and diluted muriatic
acid, equal parts. Mix.
2003. Etching Varnish for Ivory.
White wax, 2 parts ; tears of mastic, 2 parts.
Mix.
2004. To Etch on Ivory. Cover the
ivory to be etched with a thin coating of bees'
wax, then trace the figure you desire to pre-
sent through the wax. Pour aver it a strong
solution of nitrate of silver. Let it remain a
sufficient length of time, then remove it, with
he wax, by washing in warm water. The
design will be left in dark lines on the ivory.
2005. To Gild Ivory. Immerse it in a
solution of nitro-muriate of gold, and then,
while yet damp, expose it to hydrogen gas.
"Wash it afterwards in clean water. Another
)lan of gilding ivory is by immersing it in a
resh solution of protosulphate of iron, and
afterwards in a solution of chloride of gold.
2006. To Silver Ivory. Immerse the
vory in a weak solution of nitrate of silver,
and let it remain till the solution has given it
a deep yellow color ; then take it out and im-
merse it in clear water, and expose it in the
water to the rays of the sun. In about 3
lours the ivory acquires a black color ; but the
"(lack surface, on being rubbed, soon becomes
handed to a brilliant silver.
200
IVORY, ALABASTER, ETC.
2007. To Clean Ivory Ornaments.
"When ivory ornaments get yellow or dusky-
looking, wash them well in soap and water
with a small brush, to clean the carvings, and
place them, while wet, in full sunshine ; wet
them for 2 or 3 days, several times a day, with
soajry water, still keeping them in the sun;
then wash them again, and they will be beau-
tifully white.
2008. Bone for Ornamental Pur-
poses is treated in a similar way to ivory,
but less carefully, owing to its inferior value.
The bones of living animals may be dyed by
mixing madder with their food. The bones
of young pigeons may thus be tinged of a
rose color in 24 hours, and of a deep scarlet in
3 or 4 days ; but the bones of adult animals
take fully 2 weeks to acquire a rose color.
The bones nearest the heart become tinged
soonest. In the same way logwood and the
extract of logwood will tinge the bones of
young pigeons purple.
2009. Ivory Size or Jelly. The dust
or shavings (ivory dust, ivory shavings) of the
turner, form a beautiful size or jelly when
boiled in water.
2010. Artificial Ivory for Photo-
graphy. Tablets for photography are made
by mingling finely pulverized sulphate of
baryta or heavy spar with gelatine or albumen,
compressing'the product into sheets and dry-
ing it.
2011. Artificial Ivory. The process
by which the most successful imitation of
natural ivory is obtained appears to consist in
dissolving either india-rubber or gutta-percha
in chloroform, passing chlorine through the
solution until it has acquired a light yellow
tint, next washing well with alcohol, then
adding, in fine powder, either sulphate of
baryta, sulphate of lime, sulphate of lead,
alumina, or chalk, in quantity proportioned to
the desired density and tint, kneading well,
and finally subjecting to heavy pressure. A
very tough product, capable of taking a very
high polish, is obtainable in this way.
2012. Horn. For practical purposes,
the horns of the goat and sheep are preferred
for their whiteness and transparency.
2013. To Dye Horn. Horn is dyed
with the same dyes, and in the same manner,
as ivory. (See Nos. 1982, <fc.)
2014. To Prepare Horn. Horn is
softened by sawing it into plates or sherets,
and then exposing it to powerful pressure
between hot iron plates. Before pressing,
the pith has to be removed, and the texture
softened, first by soaking for some days, and
then boiling in water.
2015. To Unite Horn. The surfaces
and edges of pieces of horn may be united or
cemented together by softening by the heat
of boiling water, then placing the parts in
contact under strong pressure in a vise, and
again exposing to the heat of boiling water.
2016. ToDyeor Stain Horn Tortoise-
shell Color. The horn to be dyed must be
first pressed into proper plates, scales, or
other flat form, and the following mixture
prepared: Take of quicklime 2 parts, and
litharge 1 part ; temper them together to the
consistence of a soft paste, with soap lye.
Put this paste over all the parts of the horn,
except such as are proper to be left transpar-
ent, in order to give it a near resemblance to
the tortoise-shell. The horn must remain in
this manner covered with the paste till it is
thoroughly dry; when, the paste being brushed
off, the horn will be found partly opaque and
partly transparent, in the manner of tortoise-
shell, and, when put over a foil of Dutch gold
metal, will be scarcely distinguishable from it.
It requires some degree of fancy and judg-
ment to dispose of the paste in such a man-
ner as to form a variety of transparent parts,
of different magnitudes and figures, to look
like the effect of nature ; and it will be an
improvement to add semi-transparent parts,
which may be done by mixing whiting with
some of the paste, to weaken its operation in
particular places, by which spots of a reddish-
brown will be produced, which, if properly
interspersed, especially on the edges of the
dark parts, will greatly increase the beauty of
the work, and its similitude to real tortoise-
shell.
2017. To Stain Horn in Imitation
of Tortoise-shell. Mix an equal quantity of
quicklime and red lead with strong soap lees,
lay it on the horn with a small brush, in imi-
tation of the mottle of tortoise-shell; when
dry, repeat it two or three times.
2018. To Join or Weld Tortoise-shell
or Horn. Provide a pair of pincers or
tongs, constructed so as to reach 4 inches
beyond the rivet ; then have the tortoise-shell
filed clean to a lap-joint, carefully observing
that there is no grease about it; wet the
joint with water, apply the pincers hot, fol-
lowing them with water, and the shell will be
joined as if it were one piece. The heat must
not be so great as to burn the shell, therefore
try it first on a piece of white paper.
2019. To Polish Tortoise-Shell or
Horn. Having scraped the work perfectly
smooth and level, nib it with very fine sand-
paper or Dutch rushes; repeat the rubbing
with a bit of felt dipped in very finely pow-
dered charcoal with water, and, lastly, with
rotten-stone or putty-powder ; and finish with
a piece of soft wash-leather, damped with a
little sweet oil ; or, still better, rub it with sub-
nitrate of bismuth by the palm of the hand.
2020. Alabaster. Oriental alabaster is
a substance of a pure, semi-translucent white-
ness, occasionally found variegated with un-
dulating veins of yellow, red and brown.
The common alabaster, usually met with in
ornaments &c., is made of gypsum (plaster of
Paris), and prepared so as to imitate the gen-
uine. The following receipts are for the
gypsum imitation, and not the real alabaster.
By using any of the hardening processes,
beautiful imitations of marble may be pro-
duced, but they require great care and skill.
2021. To Engrave or Etch on Imita-
tion Alabaster. Cover every part of the
surface, except those portions to be etched,
with a solution of 1 part white wax in 4 parts
oil of turpentine, thickening with a little finely
powdered white lead; immerse the cast in
water for from 20 to 50 hours, according to
the effect desired. Then wash off the cover-
ing solution with oil of turpentine, and brush
over carefully the etched parts with powdered
gypsum (plaster of Paris). The etching is
produced by the solvent action of the water
on the gypsum.
IVORY, ALABASTER, ETC.
201
2022. To Harden Alabaster. Expose
the unpolished articles for from 12 to 24 hours
to a heat about equal to that of a baker's
oven ; withdraw from the heat, and when con-
siderably cooled, immerse them for from 2 to 5
minutes in pure river water. The operation
may be repeated a second time, and 3 or 4 days
are" allowed to elapse before polishing them.
A weak solution of alum in water may be
substituted for the river water.
2023. To Dress Plaster of Paris with
"Wax in Imitation of Alabaster. Dip the
cast or model, previously warmed, and sus-
pended by a fine silken cord or wire into the
purest white wax, melted in any suitable ves-
sel. The operation should be repeated until
the liquid wax begins to rest unabsorbed on
the surface of the plaster, when the article
must be placed aside (suspended) until the
next day, when it may be polished with a
clean brush. None but the hardest, purest,
and whitest wax will do for the above purpose.
That commonly sold is mixed with spermaceti,
stearine, or tallow, and not unfrequently with
Japanese wax and potato starch. (See No.
1582J
2024. To Bender Plaster Figures
Durable. First thoroughly dry the plaster
figure in a warm dry atmosphere ; place it in
a vessel and cover it with the clearest linseed
oil, just warm. After 12 hours, take it out,
drain, and let it dry in a place free from dust.
"When dry it will look like wax, and can be
washed without injury.
2025. To Harden Plaster. Mix up
the plaster of Paris with a weak solution of
gum arabic (1 ounce to 1 pint of water); or,
for common purposes, a weak solution of size.
This not only renders the plaster harder, but
gives the surface a pleasing smoothness.
2026. To Harden Imitation Alabas-
ter with Alum. Suspend the article by a
fine silken cord or wire in a strong and per-
fectly clear solution of alum, letting it remain
until the alum crystallizes on the surface ;
then polish with a wet cloth.
2027. To Make Hard Plaster of
Paris. Mix with weak alum water, instead
of water, for casting ; or, a solution of 1£ or
2 ounces of gum-arabic to the pint of water;
or, for common purposes, a weak solution of
size may be used.
2028. To Harden Plaster with Sul-
phate of Potassa. If equal parts of com-
mon calcined plaster of Paris and of sulphate
of potassa be mixed together, they will harden
in a moment with less than an equivalent
weight of water ; so much so, indeed, that the
mixture cannot be poured out of the vessel.
If, however, 1 part of each of the salts and 2
of water be used, they form a mass which can-
not be poured out, and the surface of which
will be found coated with a crust of sulphate
of potash. The rapidity of hardening, there-
fore, can be made to vary with the percentage
of water, the mass solidifying even if 6 parts
of water be used.
2029. To Stain or Color Alabaster.
This is effected by mixing with the water
used for working the gypsum, any of the or-
dinary pigments or colored solutions that are
not decomposed by contact with sulphate or
carbonate of lime. A little sienna in very
fine powder, or ground with water, imparts a
good color for busts, medallions, &c. For
rough and architectural purposes, the colors
are commonly added to a solution of clear
size, which is then made into a paste with
plaster. In this manner colored stucco of
great hardness and durability is produced.
Objects formed from the solid alabaster may
be stained in the same way, and with the
same materials, as marble. (See Nos. 2036, <f c.)
2030. To Polish Alabaster. The ob-
ject, received in the rough state from the
hands of the sculptor or turner, is rubbed
with finely-powdered pumice-stone, or dried
shave-grass (equisetum) and water, and after-
wards with a paste formed of finely-powdered
and sifted slacked lime and water. The rough
polish thus produced is then brought up and
finished off by friction with finely-powdered
talc, or French chalk, until a satiny lustre is
produced.
2031. To Prevent Expansion or
Shrinkage in Casting Plaster. Use lime
water instead of plain water to mix the plaster
of Paris, i an ounce of sulphate of potassa
dissolved in each quart of water will have the
same effect, but weakens the plaster.
2032. To Make Artificial Marble
for Paper Weights or other Fancy
Articles. Soak plaster of Paris in a solution
of alum; bake it in an oven, and then grind it
to a powder. In using, mix it with water,
and to produce the clouds and veins, stir in
any dry color you wish; this will become
very hard, and is susceptible of a high polish.
2033. To Polish Mother-of-Pearl. Go
over it with pumice stone, finely powdered
(first washed to separate the impurities and
dirt), with which you may polish it very
smooth ; then apply putty powder as directed
for ivory, and it will produce a fine gloss
and a good color. (See No. 2000.)
2034. To Clean Alabaster. Soap well
and wash with hot water. If stained, apply
fuller's earth, pipe- clay, or whiting, for 3 or 4
hours, then wash off. If very dirty and
stained, first wash with aquafortis diluted
with water. Or : Take ground pumice stone
of the finest quality, and mix it up with ver-
juice ; let it stand for 2 hours, then dip in a
sponge and rub the alabaster with it; wash
with a linen cloth and fresh water, and dry
with clean linen rags. Any kind of marble
may be done in the same manner.
2035. To Polish Marble. With a
Eiece of very fine sandstone, rub the slab
ackward and forward; using very fine sand
and water, till the marble appears equally
rough, and not in scratches; next use a finer
stone and finer sand, till its surface appears
equally gone over; then, with fine emery-
powder and a piece of felt or old hat wrapped
round a weight, rub it till all the marks left
by the former process are worked out, and it
appears with a comparative gloss on its sur-
face. Afterward finish the polish with putty
powder and fine clean rags. As soon as the
face appears of a good gloss, do not put any
more powder on the rags, but rub it well, and
in a short time it will have a fine polish. De-
fects may also be brought up with tripoli, fol-
lowed by putty powder; both being used
along with water.
2036. To Dye or Stain Marble.
Marble may be stained or dyed of various
202
PYROTECHNY.
colors by applying their solutions to the stone
made sufficiently hot to make the liquid just
simmer on the surface. Success in the appli-
cation of the colors requires considerable ex-
perience. By their skillful use a pleasing
effect, both of color and grain, may be pro-
duced. The folio-wing are the substances
usually employed for this purpose :
2037. Blue Stain for Marble. Tinc-
ture or solution of litmus, or an alkaline solu-
tion oT indigo. (See No. 2036.)
2038. " Brown Stain for Marble.
Tincture of logwood. (See No. 2036.)
2039. Crimson Stain for Marble.
A solution of alkanet root in oil of turpentine.
(See No. 2036.)
2040. Flesh Color Stain for Marble.
"Wax tinged with alkanet root, and applied to
the marble hot enough to melt it. (See No.
2036.)
2041. Gold Color Stain for Marble.
A mixture of equal parts of white vitriol, sal
ammoniac, and verdigris, all in fine powder,
carefully applied. (See No. 2036.)
2042. Green Stain for Marble. An
alkaline solution or tincture of sap green, or
wax strongly colored with verdigris, or stain
the stone first blue, and then yellow. (See
No. 2036.)
2043. Bed Stain for Marble. Tincture
of dragon's blood, alkanet root, or cochineal.
(See No. 2036.)
2044. Yellow Stain for Marble.
Tincture of gamboge, turmeric, or saffron.
(See No. 2036.)
2045. Acids Injurious to Marble.
Marble being a carbonate of lime, and the two
substances not having a very great affinity,
care should be taken in the use of marble
furniture and ornaments, as tables, mantels,
statuary, etc. Acids of any kind will more or
less affect marble, and they should not be al-
lowed to touch it. The slabs on which acids
are allowed to stand soon lose their polish,
and are liable to a degree of disintegration
which impairs their beauty. Fruits, sauces,
vinegar, etc., should not be allowed to come
in contact with a marble-topped table or
shelf. .
2046. To Polish Meerschaum. The
dust of meerschaum is the best article for this
purpose.
2047. Artificial Meerschaum. Arti-
ficial meerschaum may be made by immersing
carbonate of magnesia in a warm solution of
silicate of soda or potash for some time, or by
precipitating from a solution of epsom salts
by means of the silicates.
PyrOtechny. This is the art of
making fireworks. The three principal
materials employed in this art are charcoal,
saltpetre, and sulphur, combined with filings of
iron, steel, copper or zinc, or with resin, cam-
phor, lycopodium and other substances, to
impart color, or to modify the effect and dura-
tion of the combustion. Gunpowder is used,
either in grain, half crushed, or meal (finely,
ground), as circumstances may require. Iron
filings give red and bright spots. Copper
filings give a greenish tint to flame ; those of
zinc, a fine blue color ; sulphuret of antimony
gives a less greenish blue than the zinc, but
with much smoke; amber, resin and common
salt afford a yellow fire. Lycopodium burns
with a rose color and a magnificent flame, &c.
2049. The Leading Fireworks. The
leading simple fireworks are rockets, lioman
candles, flowerpots or gerbs, mines, and their
adaptations or varieties ; quick fires of differ-
ent kinds and colors in cases, such as golden
rain, spur fire, &c.; slow fires in cases and pots,
as blue lights, B.engal lights, &c. These form
the fundamental principles of all pyrotechnic
display. The endless variety of their combi-
nations in the shape of vertical and horizontal
wheels and "set pieces," requires considerable
fertility of invention and mechanical ingenuity,
combined with a thorough practical knowledge
of the nature of firework compositions, and
the appropriate means of displaying them to
the best advantage. The weights used in the
following receipts are avoirdupois.
2050. To Make Plain Rockets. Tho
cases are made of stout cartridge paper, rolled
on a rod whose thickness is equal to the de-
sired diameter of the bore. The rod is slightly
tapering, to allow of its easier withdrawal
after the case is rolled and pasted. The
narrower end of the case is choked ; that is,
a neck is made in it, similar to the neck of a
phial. (See No. 2053,) The composition
(see No. 2054) is next rammed tightly into
the case (see No. 2052), which is supported by
a closely fitting mould during this operation,
finishing with a small charge of gunpowder
to explode when the rocket goes out. The
top of the case is then stopped with clay and
a conical cap fastened on, to decrease the
resistance of the air in its upward flight; and
the bottom or choked end of the case is fur-
nished with priming and touch-paper. ' The
whole is secured to the end of a willow stick,
to direct its course through the air.
2051. To Make Display Rockets.
Sockets whose discharge ends in display, are
furnished with an extra case, called the pot,
about £ the length of the rocket ; its inside
diameter is the same as the outside diameter
of the rocket case, over which it is glued
firmly, and takes the place of the conical cap.
The garniture, consisting of stars, serpents,
&c., as the case may be (see No. 2055), is in-
serted in the pot and connected with the
charge in the rocket case by a quick match.
(See Ne. 2060.) The whole is finished with
the clay and cap, the same as the head of a
simple rocket.
2052. To Charge Rocket Cases. In
charging rocket cases, in order to increase
the rapidity of its discharge a wire is some-
times inserted through the centre of the
charge, the rammer being constructed with a
small bore through its length, to receive this
wire when ramming the charge. This wire is
withdrawn when the charge is complete, and
the space it has left is filled with a quick
match (see No. 2060), which thus sets fire to
the entire charge at once. This central space
is called the soul of the rocket, and the adop-
tion of this arrangement is necessary for
large rockets, especially those having heavy
pots.
2053. To Choke Firework Cases. A
short cylindrical piece of wood, of the same
PTEOTECHNT.
203
diameter as the thin end of the rod used for
rolling a case, is furnished with a wire, the
thickness of which must be the same as the
desired bore of the choke. The end of the
c
rod has a hole bored in it to receive this wire
loosely. A is the rod on which the case is to
be rolled ; C the cap of the same diameter as
the end of the rod, having the wire inserted
firmly in its axis. The rod is bored, as the
dotted lines at B denote, to receive the wire.
The outside dotted lines indicate a case on
the rod, choked at 1ST. This is effected by
stretching a piece of strong cord, a single
turn of which is passed round the case at "
compressing it firmly and leaving a bore of
the same size as the wire between the rod and
the cap. In rolling a case to be choked, the
paper should be used in pieces, each piece
wide enough to make about 3 thicknesses
when rolled over the rod, and the choking
done after each piece is rolled. When finish-
ed, the rod is withdrawn from the mouth of
the case, and the cap and wire from the other
end.
2054. Composition for Rockets. For
2 ounce rockets : — Mix 54£ parts nitre (salt-
petre), 18 parts sulphur, and 27£ of charcoal,
all in fine powder. Sift through lawn. For
4 ounce rockets : — 64 parts nitre, 16 parts sul-
phur, and 20 parts charcoal. For 8 ounce to 1
pound rockets : — 62f parts nitre, 15f parts sul-
phur, and 21£ parts charcoal. For rockets f
inch in diameter : — 16 parts nitre, 4 parts sul-
phur, and 7 parts charcoal. For rockets 1£
inches in diameter use 1 part more nitre, and
for still larger rockets, another additional part
nitre. By using 1 part less charcoal, and
adding respectively 3, 4, and 5 parts fine steel
filings, the above are converted into brilliant
fires; or, by using coarse iron filings, and
still less charcoal, they become Chinese -fire.
2055. Chinese Fire for Sky Rockets.
If I inch or under, nitre, 16 parts ; charcoal,
4 parts; sulphur, 8 parts; cast-iron borings,
4 parts. Mix. Or : I£ over 1 inch and under
2 inches bore, nitre 16 parts ; charcoal, 4 parts;
sulphur, 4 parts ; iron borings, 5 parts. Mix.
2056. Golden Rain. Mealed powder, 4
ounces; saltpetre, 1 pound; sulphur, 4 ounces;
brass filings, 1 ounce; sawdust, 2J ounces;
glass powder, 6 drachms.
2057. Silver Rain. Mealed powder, 2
ounces; saltpetre, 4 ounces; sulphur, 1 ounce;
steel dust, f ounce.
2058. Trailed Stars for Rockets and
Roman Candles. Saltpetre, 4 ounces; sul-
phur, 6 ouuces ; sulphate of antimony, 2 oun-
ces ; resin, 4 ounces. With sparks. Mealed
powder, 1 ounce; saltpetre, 1 ounce; camphor,
2 ounces. Other receipts for stars suitable
for rocket garniture will be found under the
head of " Colored Fires."* (See No. 2065, <fc.)
2059. To Prepare Touch. Paper.
Soak unglazed paper in a solution of nitre in
vinegar or water. The stronger the solution,
the faster will it burn. A good plan is to dip
it in a weak solution, dry it, try it, and if it
burns too slowly, make the solution stronger
and dip it again to make it burn faster.
206p. To Make Quick Match. Quick
match is made by immersing lamp-wifck in a
solution of saltpetre with mesfl powder, wind-
ing it on a frame, and afterwards dusting with
meal powder. To 28 ounces cotton, take salt-
petre, 1 pound; alcohol, 2 quarts; water, 3
quarts; solution of isinglass (1 ounce to the
pint), 3 gallons ; mealed powder, 10 pounds.
2061. Inextinguishable Match. Take
4 parts dry nitre, 2 gunpowder, 2 charcoal,
and 1 sulphur, and mix them ; then ram the
compound into paper cases 9 inches in length
and of the thickness of a common quill.
When this composition is inflamed, rain will
not extinguish it; the burning end of the
match must be cut off to stay the fire.
2062. To Make Roman Candles. The
cases for Eoman candles are not choked, but
well secured at the bottom with clay. A
small charge of gunpowder is first intro-
duced, then a star, followed by a charge of
composition (see No. 2063) ; these are gently
rammed down, and the same routine of gun-
powder, star, and composition, is repeated
until the case is full. Lastly, prime and close
with touch paper. The stars are flat cylinders
of a paste composition, cut to fit the bore of
the case, and having a hole bored in their cen-
tre to .allow the fire to pass through to the
charge behind them. The stars which are
nearest to the mouth of the case should fit a
little tightly, and gradually a little more loose-
ly as they are further from the mouth. The
charges of powder behind them should also
decrease by degrees as their position is fur-
ther from the mouth of the case. It is also
advisable to put a loose wad of one thickness
of paper, with a hole in the centre, between
each star and the gunpowder behind it.
2063. Composition for Roman Can-
dles. Mix i pound meal-powder, 2i pounds
saltpetre, and -J pound each sulphur and glass
dust.
2064. Colored Stars may be made by
using any of the receipts for colored fires,
with a solution of isinglass, \ ounce ; cam-
phor, i ounce ; and alcohol, f- ounce. Make
into cylindrical cakes of the requisite size,
punch a hole in the centre of each, roll in
gunpowder, and dry in the sun.
2065. Colored Fires. Great care is
necessary in the preparation of these com-
bustibles. The ingredients should be sepa-
rately reduced to powder and sifted ; then put
into well-corked, wide-mouthed bottles until
the time for mixing them for use. Colored
fires deteriorate rapidly by keeping, and are
nearly all dangerously inflammable; they
should, therefore, be mixed as soon as possi-
ble before using them. The ingredients
should be pure and perfectly dry ; uniformly
powdered, but not so fine as to be dusty.
Xitrate of strontia, alum, carbonate of soda,
and other crystals, should be gently heated in
an iron pan until they lose their water of
crystallization and crumble into dry powder.
(8f6 Drying, No. 3842.) Chlorate of potas-
sa must be very cautiously handled, as it ex-
plodes by moderate friction. The requisite
quantity of each ingredient should be weighed
and placed on a clean sheet of white paper,
and mixed lightly with a bone knife; they
may then be more thoroughly mixed \>y sift-
ing through a fine wire serve.
204,
PYEOTECHNY.
2066. Colored Fires for Illuminations.
Pack the compounds lightly into small cups
or pans.
2067. Cqlored Fires for Stars, &c.
The compounds may be put into small pill-
boxes, with a little priming and a quick match
(see No. 2060) attached to each. If kept,
they should be put where no damage can hap-
pen in case of their catching fire.
2068. To Make Colored Fires. The
following receipts for the preparation of these
effective aids in pyrotechnic and dramatic
display, are among the very best that are
known. These fires have in some theatres
been assisted, if not superseded, by the calcium
light ; color being communicated by passing
the rays of light through colored glass. The
unpleasant smell of colored fires is avoided,
and the effects can be prolonged at pleasure,
instead of lasting merely a few moments.
2069. Blue Fire. Mix 2 parts realgar
(red arsenic), 3 parts charcoal, 5 parts chlorate
of potassa, 13 parts sulphur, and 77 parts
nitrate of baryta.
2070. Bird's Blue Fire. 1 part char-
coal, 1 part orpiment (yellow sulphuret of
arsenic), 16 parts black sulphuret of antimo-
ny, 48 parts nitre, and 64 parts sulphur.
2071. Bengal, or Blue Signal Light,
used at Sea. 1 part tersulphide of antimo-
ny, 2 parts sulphur, and 6 parts dry nitre.
( See JVo. 2065.)
2072. Bengal Lights. Braunschweizer
recommends the following mixtures as not
producing injurious fumes: For red lights:
9 parts nitrate of strontia, 3 parts shellac, 1£
parts chlorate of potassa. For green : 9 parts
nitrate of baryta, 3 parts of shellac, li parts
chlorate of potassa. For blue : 8 parts am-
moniacal sulphate of copper, 6 parts chlorate
of potassa, 1 part of shellac.
2073. Blue Fire for Stage Effect.
15 parts of sulphur, 15 parts sulphate of po-
tassa, 15 parts animonio-sulphate of copper,
27 parts nitre, and 28 parts chlorate of potassa.
The blue is made darker or lighter by increas-
ing or diminishing tne potassa and copper in-
gredients. This is Marchand's preparation.
2074. Marsh's Blue Fire. Mix 7
parts sulphate of copper, 24 sulphur, and 69
parts chlorate of potassa.
2075. Marsh's Crimson Fire for Pots.
Mix 17 parts chlorate of potassa, 23 willow
charcoal, 90 parts sulphur, and 270 parts
nitrate of strontia.
2076. Marsh's Crimson Fire for
Stars and Boxes. Mix 17 parts charcoal,
22 parts sulphuret of antimony, 69 chlorate
of potassa, 72 parts sulphur, and 220 parts
nitrate of strontia.
2077. Marchand's Purple Crimson
Fire. Mix 16 parts sulphur, 23 parts dry
chalk, 61 parts chlorate of potassa.
2078. Green Fire for Ghost Scenes.
Equal parts charcoal and nitrate of baryta.
2079. Brilliant Green Fire. A mag-
nificent green fire can be prepared by mixing
8 parts chlorate of thallium, 2 parts calomel,
and 1 part resin.
2080. Green Fire. Take 2 parts metallic
arsenic, 3 parts charcoal, 5 parts chlorate of
p:»tassa, 13 parts sulphur, 77 parts nitrate of
baryta. This is a beautiful fire, particularly
when burnt before a reflector of glass or metal.
2081. Marchand's Green Fire. Mix
10 parts boracic acid, 17 sulphur, and 73
parts chlorate of potassa.
2082. Green Fire for Theatrical
Tableaux. Take 18 parts chlorate of potassa,
22 parts sulphur, 60 parts nitrate of baryta.
2083. Light Green Fire. Mix 16
parts sulphur, 24 carbonate of baryta, 60 parts
chlorate of potassa.
2084. Green Fire for Pots or Stars.
Take 7 parts charcoal, 7 sulphuret of arsenic,
42 parts sulphur, 93 parts chlorate of potassa,
250 parts nitrate of baryta.
2085. Lilac Fire for Pans. Take 6
parts black oxide of copper, 20 dry chalk, 25
parts sulphur, 49 parts chlorate of potassa.
2086. Lilac Fire for Stars. Take 3
parts black oxide of copper, 22 parts dried
chalk, 25 parts sulphur, 50 chlorate of potassa.
2087. Bed Fire. Mix 16 parts sul-
phur, 23 parts carbonate of strontia, 61 parts
chlorate of potassa.
2088. Red Fire for Stage Effect.
Mix 20 parts chlorate of potassa, 24 sulphur,
56 parts nitrate of strontia.
2089. Orange Bed Fire. Take 14
parts sulphur, 34 chalk, 52 parts chlorate of
potassa.
2090. Purple Bed Fire. Sulphur, 16
parts, 23 parts chalk, 61 parts chlorate of
potassa.
2091. Purple Fire. Take 1 part each
of lampblack, red arsenic, and nitre ; 2 parts
sulphur, 5 parts chlorate of potassa, and 16
parts fused nitrate of strontia.
2092. Pink Fire for the Stage. Mix 1
part charcoal, 20 chalk, 20 parts sulphur, 27
parts chlorate of potassa, 32 parts nitre.
2093. Bose Colored Fire. Take 16
parts sulphur, 23 dried chloride of calcium, 61
parts chlorate of potassa.
2094. Pale Violet Fire. Take 14
parts sulphur, 16 parts alum, 16 carbonate of
potassa, 54 parts chlorate of potassa.
2095. Dark Violet Fire. Take 12
parts alum, 12 parts carbonate of potassa, 16
parts sulphur, 60 parts chlorate of potassa.
2096. White Fire for Theatres. Take
2 parts charcoal, 22 sulphur, 76 parts nitre.
2097. White Fire for Pans or Stars.
Take 60 parts nitre, 20 parts sulphur, 10 black
antimony, 4 parts powdered camphor, 6 parts
meal powder.
2098. Marsh's White Fire for Pans.
Take 25 parts gunpowder, 36 zinc filings, 46
parts sulphur, 93 parts nitre.
2099. Yellow Fire. Take 16 parts sul-
phur, 23 parts dried (See No. 2065) carbonate of
soda, 61 chlorate of potassa.
2100. Marsh's Yellow Fire. Mix 12
parts charcoal, 149 parts dry (see No. 2065)
nitrate of soda, 39 parts sulphur.
2101. Fire-eating Ghosts. Pour some
strong warm spirits into a flat dish, sprinkle
some salt into it, and set it on fire on a table
in a perfectly dark room, taking care to pro-
tect the table from injury. Persons standing
round the table will appear of a deathly
pallor, and by eating raisins dipped in the
burning spirit, will appear to eat fire. Shut-
ting the mouth quickly on the burning raisins,
extinguishes them instantly.
2102. Port Fire. The port fire used
for cannon is composed of 3 parts nitre, 2
PYEOTECSNT.
2O5
sulphur, and 1 gunpowder, well mixed and
rammed into cases. These are also useful for
igniting fireworks.
2103. Signal Lights. Such lights are
generally composed ofsulphur and nitre, with
a small quantity of metallic sulphuret. Mix
600 grains nitre, 2 sulphur, and 100 yellow
sulphuret of arsenic, and ram it into a conical
paper case. "When touched with a red-hot
iron it deflagrates rapidly with a brilliant
white light. The sulphuret of antimony may
be substituted for that of arsenic.
2104. Indian White Fire Signal.
Dry (see No. 2065) nitre, 24 parts; sulphur,
7 parts ; powdered charcoal, 1 ; or instead oi
the charcoal, 2 parts red sulphuret of arsenic.
Mix them intimately in an iron vessel, and
ram the mixture into thick paper cylinders of
about 3 inches in length by 1 in diameter.
These are kept in a dry place, and when one
is required to be used, it is set on end, and a
piece of red-hot charcoal placed upon it.
2105. Iron Sand for Fireworks.
Used to give corruscations in fireworks, is far
better than iron or steel-filings. It is made
by beating cast steel or iron into small pieces
on an anvil. These are sifted into 4 sizes, the
smallest for the smallest pieces, and vice
versa. The corruscations produced by these
are exceedingly brilliant. The sand should
be kept in a dry place in a well-closed bottle,
as any rust damages it. Fireworks containing
it should not be made very long before using.
2106. Open Fires. The following arti-
cle and receipts for open fires are by Professor
Ferrurn, and we quote them from the "Amer-
ican Druggists' Circular" :
Among the many receipts for open fires, but
few deserve to be recommended, and these
have been selected. The white and red fires
only show a clear, distinct color. The green
is generally pale, and shows off only when
burnt after a red. A pure blue is very diffi-
cult to obtain. The following should be ob-
served as general rules : The ingredients for
the fires are dried singly at a slightly elevated
temperature, finely powdered, and preserved
in well-stoppered bottles, until required for
use The mixing of the ingredients is best
performed on a sheet of paper by means of a
card, and should be done very carefully so as
to ensure a complete mixture. Sifting is in
most cases admissible, while triturating in
a mortar is above all to be avoided. After
mixing, the powder is piled in small heaps in
open vessels, for which purpose small flower-
pots or flower-pot dishes are well adapted.
On top of these several piles, some gunpow-
der is placed to facilitate the lighting. The
vessels should be arranged in such a manner
that the flame may illuminate the intended
object without being seen by the spectators.
The distribution of the material into a greater
or less number of dishes is governed by cir-
cumstances. A great number of small flames
from a certain quantity of mixture generally
give a more intense, but so much shorter-
lived light than the same quantity distributed
in larger portions; beyond a certain limit,
however, even that intensity is not materially
heightened by a few more lights. If the fire
is to continue for some time, it must further
bo considered that large quantities of the mix-
ture form a correspondingly greater amount
of slags, which greatly mar the effect. It is,
therefore, best in such cases to burn off a num-
ber of small charges successively.
2107. White Fire. The foUowing mix-
ture we recommend as the very best for white
lights, being unsurpassed in brilliancy and
power by any other :
Saltpetre, 18 parts; sulphur, 10 parts;
black sulphuret of antimony, 3 parts ; burnt
lime, 4 parts. The sulphur is used in the
form of flowers previously dried ; the lime is
not to be slacked, but must be finely powder-
ed ; it must be fresh, and be powdered imme-
diately before use. All other mixtures for
white fires have either a, bluish tinge or con-
tain deleterious ingredients, which render
them at least unsuitable for indoor use. Of
the latter class we will mention only one:
Saltpetre, 12 parts; sulphur, 4 parts; sul-
phite of tin, 1 part. Two other mixtures de-
serve mention, though not equal to the last :
I. Saltpetre, 48 parts; sulphur, 13J parts;
sulphide of sodium, 74 parts; and
II. Saltpetre, 64 parts ; sulphur, 21 parts ;
gunpowder, 15 parts.
2108. Blue Fire. The only mixture to
be relied on, though the light is not purely blue,
but bluish white, is the following : Saltpetre,
12 parts ; sulphur, 4 parts ; black sulphuret of
antimony, 1 part.
2109. Red Fire. The following mix-
ture is the best in use ; its composition may
be altered by various admixtures :
I. Nitrate of strontia, 13 parts ; sulphur, 1
part ; powder dust, 1 part. The latter ingre-
dient is prepa'red from fine gunpowder, rubbed
up carefully in a mortar and then sifted
through a hair sieve. Another receipt is :
II. Nitrate of strontia, 24 parts; chlorate
of potassa, 16 parts; stearine, 4 parts; powder-
ed charcoal, 1 part. In using chlorate of potas-
sa the precautions given in No. 2124 must be
strictly observed, and all pounding and rub-
bing avoided.
III. Nitrate of strontia, 20 parts; chlorate
of potassa, 4 parts ; sulphur, 5 parts ; black
sulphuret of antimony, 2 parts; powdered
charcoal, 1 part. Gives a very, strong light.
The nitrate of strontia for these fires, as the
ingredients for all others, must be well, but
arefully dried. (See No. 2065.;
2110. Yellow Fire. This color, which
is very little used, is produced by the follow-
ing mixture : Nitrate of soda, 48 parts ; sul-
phur, 16 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony,
4 parts ; powdered charcoal, 1 part.
2111. Green Fires. The coloring in-
gredients for these lights are the salts of ba-
ryta. The color is generally not very deep.
I, Nitrate of baryta, 45 parts ; sulphur, 10
parts ; chlorate of potassa, 20 parts ; calomel,
i parts ; lampblack, 1 part.
II. -Nitrate of baryta, 60 parts; chlorate
of potassa, 18 parts ; sulphur, 22 parts.
III. Chlorate of baryta, 3 parts ; sulphur,
1 part.
IT. Chlorate of baryta, 24 parts ; stearin,
3 parts ; sugar of milk, 1 part.
V. Chlorate of baryta, 3 parts; sugar of
milk, 1 part.
2112. Colored Lights. "We derive the
receipts for these from the same source as the
open fires. (See No. 2106.) Colored lights
are formed by filling cylinders of thin writing
206
EXPLOSIVES.
paper of about an inch in diameter with the
mixtures. The length of the cylinder deter-
mines the duration of the light. The mix-
tures may be moistened and pounded into the
cylinder with a wooden rod; after drying,
they will then be hard enough to allow of the
removal of the paper, and may be further
strengthened by being dipped in or painted
over with mucilage of gum-arabic. The cyl-
inders, when finished, are tied to the upper end
of sticks fastened in the ground in a vertical
position. The mixtures vary essentially from
those used for colored fires.
2113. White Lights. Saltpetre, 4
parts ; sulphur, 1 part ; black sulphuret of
antimony, 1'part.
2114. Yellow Lights. I. Black sul-
phuret of antimony, 2 parts ; chlorate of po-
tassa, 4 parts; sulphur, 2 parts; oxalate of
soda, 1 part.
II. Saltpetre, 140 parts; sulphur, 45 parts;
oxalate of soda, 30 parts ; lampblack, 1 part.
2115. Green Lights. I. Chlorate of
baryta, 2 parts; nitrate of baryta, 3 parts;
sulphur, 1 part.
II. Chlorate of potassa, 20 parts; nitrate
of baryta, 21 parts; sulphur, 11 parts.
2116. Red Lights. Nitrate of strontia,
25 parts ; chlorate, of potassa, 15 parts ; sul-
phur, 13 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony,
4 parts ; mastich, 1 part.
2117. Pink Lights. Chlorate of potas-
sa, 12 parts ; saltpetre,.5 parts ; sugar of milk,
4 parts ; lycopodium, 1 part ; oxalate of stron-
tia, 1 part.
2118. Blue Lights. Chlorate of potas-
sa, 3 parts; sulphur, 1 part; ammoniated
copper, 1 part.
2119. Colored Lights without Sul-
phur— For Indoor Illuminations. These
are used for the purpose of lighting up tab-
leaux vivants, and for private theatricals.
2120. White Light. Chlorate of po-
tassa, 12 parts; saltpetre, 4 parts; sugar of
milk, 4 parts ; lycopodium, 1 part ; carbonate
of baryta, 1 part.
2121. Yellow Light. Chlorate of po-
tassa, 6 parts •:( or nitrate of baryta 10 party);
saltpetre, 6 parts ; oxalate of soda, 5 parts ;
powdered shellac, 3 parts.
2122. Green Light. Only after yellow
or rod lights. Chlorate of potassa, 2 parts ;
nitrate of baryta, 1 part ; sugar of milk, 1
part.
2123. Red Light. Nitrate of strontia,
12 parts ; chlorate of potassa, 8 parts ; sugar
of milk, 1 part ; stearine, 2 parts.
21 24. Caution in the Use of Chlorate
of Potassa. This substance should never
be kept in admixture with any inflammable
matter, especially sulphur or phosphorus, as
they explode with terrific violence by the
most trivial causes, and not unfrequently spon-
taneously. All pounding and rubbing must
be avoided.
2125. Paper for Producing Flashes
of Colored Light. Soak unsized paper for
ten minutes in a mixture of 4 parts, by mea-
sure, oil of vitriol, and 5 parts strong fuming
nitric acid ; wash out thoroughly in warm dis-
tilled water, and dry it thoroughly at a gentle
heat. The paper thus prepared is similar in
its properties to gun cotton, and a small
pellet of it, lighted at one point at a flame,
and then thrown into the air, will produce a
brilliant flash, and leave no perceptible ash.
The color is given by saturating the gun-paper
in the one of the solutions given below, and
then drying it.
A solution of chlorate of strontium makes
the flash a bright crimson. Chlorate of barium,
green. Mtrate of potassium, violet. Chlor-
ate of copper, blue. Any one of the foregoing
chlorates may be prepared by mixing a warm
solution of the corresponding chloride with an
equivalent quantity of a warm solution of
chlorate of potassa; the precipitate formed
will be chloride of potassium, and the clear
liquid, poured off, will be the desired chlorate,
to be used for saturating the gun-paper.
2126. Japanese Matches. Lampblack,
5 parts ; sulphur, 11 parts ; gunpowder, from
26 to 30 parts, this last proportion varying
with the quality of the powder. Grind very
fine, and make the material into a paste with
alcohol; form it into dice, with a knife or
spatula, about 4 inch square ; let them dry
rather gradually on a warm mantel-piece, not
too near a fire. "When dry, fix one of the lit-
tle squares in a small cleft made at the end of
a stalk of broom-corn. Light the material at
a caudle, hold the stem downward, and await
the result. After the first blazing off, a ball
of molten lava will form, from which the
curious corruscations will soon appear.
2127. Japanese Firework Mixture.
Finely pulverized nitrate of potassa, 70 parts;
washed flowers of sulphur, 30 parts; powdered
lycopodium, 12 parts; best and very light
lampblack, 8 parts. From li to 2 grains of
this powder are sufficient for use packed in
strips of suitable paper.
2128. Colored Flames. The flame of
alcohol may bo colored by mixing certain salts
with the spirit. A green color is given by
muriate of copper, or boracic acid. lied, by
nitrate of strontian, nitrate of iron, or nitrate
of lime. Yellow, by nitrate of soda, &c.
2129. Greek Fire. True Greek fire is
simply a solid, highly combustible composi-
tion, consisting of sulphur and phosphorus
dissolved in the bisulphide of carbon, to which
occasionally some mineral oil is added, with
the view 01 increasing its incendiary powers.
When the liquid is thrown on any surface ex-
posed to the air the solvent evaporates, leav-
ing a film of the phosphorus or sulphide of
phosphorus, which then inflames sponta-
neously. The proper mode of extinguishing
such a fire is to throw damp sand, ashes, saw-
dust, lime, or any powder, wet sacking or
carpeting, in short, any material which will
exclude the air from the fire. N"o attempt
should be made to remove the covering for
some time after the flame has been extin-
guished. The place should afterward be thor-
oughly washed by a powerful jet of water
forced upon it.
,V6S. This is a general
I Jterm for all substances which explode
with violence. Some of these, as gunpowder,
gun-cotton, &c., explode by being brought
into contact with fire. Others, to which the
term of Fulminates is applied, explode with
violence by slight heat, friction, or concussion.
EXPLOSIVES.
207
2131. Fulminating1 Antimony. Grind
well together 100 parts of dried tartar emetic,
and 3 parts of lampblack, or charcoal powder;
then take a crucible capable of holding 3
ounces of water, and having ground its edge
smooth, and rubbed the inside with powdered
charcoal, £ fill it with the above mixture,
cover it with a layer of charcoal powder, and
lute on the cover. Expose it for 3 hours to
a strong heat in a reverberatory furnace, and,
when taken out, let it stand to cool for 6 or 7
hours before removing its contents, to prevent
an explosion. The crucible being now opened,
the contents must be hastily transferred, with-
out breaking, to a Avide-inouthed stoppered
phial, when, after some time, it will crumble
down into a powder of itself. Or : Triturate
together, very carefully, 100 parts antimony,
75 parts carburetted (roasted to blackness)
cream of tartar, and 12 parts lampblack ; pre-
serve it in phials. When the above processes
are properly conducted, the resulting powders
fulminate violently on contact with water.
It is to the presence of the very inflammable
metal potassium that they owe this property.
Another compound, made with BO parts of
carburetted cream of tartar, 120 bismuth, and
1 of nitre, treated as above, contains an alloy
very rich in potassium. A piece the size of a
pea introduced into a mass of gunpowder ex-
plodes it on being thrown into water.
2132. Fulminating Gold. Dissolve
gold in aqua regia (made by dissolving 4
ounces sal ammoniac in 12 or 16 ounces nitric
acid), and precipitate with a solution of car-
bonate of potassa. Fulminating gold should
be made in very small quantities at a time, to
avoid risk, as without great care it explodes
with extreme violence. This is caused by the
slightest friction or sudden increase of heat.
Its fulminating property may be destroyed by
boiling it in pearlash lye, or oil of vitriol;
and by heating the powder after washing it in
water, pure gold will be obtained.
2133. Fulminating Silver. Digest ox-
ide of silver (recently precipitated, and dried
by pressure between bibulous paper) in con-
centrated liquor of ammonia for 12 or 15
hours, pour off the liquid, and cautiously dry
the black powder in the air. The decanted
ammonia, when gently heated, yields, on
cooling, small crystals, which possess a still
more formidable power of detonation, and
will scarcely bear touching, even while under
the liquid. This compound is exploded by
the slightest friction or percussion, and should
therefore be only made in very small quanti-
ties at a time, and handled with great caution.
Its explosive powers are tremendous ; in fact,
it can hardly be handled with safety, even in
the moist state. Many frightful accidents
have happened from the spontaneous explo-
sion of this substance. At most 1 or 2 grains
can be exploded with safety at one time.
2134. Fulminating * Mercury. Dis-
solve by a gentle heat 100 parts, by weight,
of mercury in 100 parts nitric acid of specific
gravity 1.4 ; and when the solution has ac-
quired a temperature of 130° Fahr., slowly
pour it through a glass funnel tube- into 830
parts alcohol of specific gravity .830. As
soon as the effervescence is over and white
fumes cease to rise, filter it through double
paper, wash with cold water, and dry by
steam (not hotter than 212°) or hot water.
This is the formula of Dr. Ure, and said to be
the cheapest and safest. If parts by measure
be adopted, the above proportions will be, for
100 parts, by measure, of mercury, 740 parts
niti'ic acid, and 830 parts alcohol.
2135. Fulminating Copper. Digest
copper, in powder or filings, with fulminate of
mercury or of silver, and a little water. It
forms soluble green crystals that explode with
a green flame.
2136. Fulminating Powder. Powder
separately 3 parts nitre, 2 parts dry (sec No.
2065) carbonate of potash, and 1 flowers of
sulphur ; mix them together carefully. If 20
grains of this compound are slowly heated on
a shovel over the fire, it melts and becomes
brown, exploding with a loud report.
2137. New Explosive Compound.
B. G. Amend has observed that glycerine
mixed with crystallized permanganate of potas-
sa in a mortar spontaneously deflagrates.
2138. Priming for Percussion Caps.
To make this compound 100 grains of fulmin-
ating mercury are triturated with a wooden
muller on marble, with 30 grains of water and
60 grains of gunpowder. This is sufficient for
400 caps. Dr. TJre recommends a solution of
gum mastich in turpentine as a medium for
attaching the fulminate to the cap.
2139. Percussion Pellets. Mix equal
parts of the chlorate of potassa and sulphuret
of antimony with liquid gum, so as to form a
paste. When dry it may be formed into pel-
lets, and used as percussion powder for guns.
This composition, placed on the ends of splints
dipped in sulphur, produces friction matches.
This mixture may also be employed for per-
cussion caps, only without the gum ; the two
substances, mixed together dry, are forced
into the caps, and a drop of varnish deposited
on the inside surface of each. A mixture of
the fulminate of mercury, chlorate of potassa,
and sulphur, however, is more commonly
used for lining percussion caps.
2140. To Make Gunpowder. Pulver-.
ize separately, 76 parts nitrate of potassa, 11
sulphur, and" 13 freshly burned charcoal, and
mix them with a little water, so as to form a
cake when rolled out on a board. This is then
dried on a clean sheet of paper placed in a
warm situation, and afterwards crumbled into
grains. It will form un glazed gunpowder.
The pulverized ingredients, thoroughly mixed,
without the addition of any water, constitute
what is called meal powder ; this may also be
made by pulverizing grained gunpowder very
cautiously in a mortar, or with a muller.
(Sec Porphyrization, No. 25.)
2141. To Prepare Gun-Cotton. The
simplest way consists in immersing, for a few
seconds, well-carded cotton in a mixture of
equal parts, by volume, of oil of vitriol of
specific gravity 1.845, and nitric acid of spe-
cific gravity of 1.500. The cotton, when well
saturated, is to be removed and squeezed to
repel the excess of acid, and then well wash-
ed in clean cold water, until the water no
longer reddens litmus paper. It is then dried
at a heat not exceeding 212°. A lower tem-
perature is still safer. The cotton thus pre-
pared explodes well, but does not dissolve
easily in ether. TJlider Collodion will be
found other preparations of Gun-Cotton.
208
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
2142. Nitroglycerine. This is an oily,
colorless liquid, with a specific gravity of 1.60.
It has no smell, but a taste which at first is
sweet, but soon becomes pungent, like pepper;
is soluble in ether and methylic alcohol, but |
not in water, but the presence of water di-
minishes the risk of explosion. It begins to
evaporate at 365° Fahr. It has been found
that pure nitro-glycerine, dropped upon a thor-
oughly red hot iron, assumes a spheroidal state
and flashes off into vapor in the same way as
gunpowder; but if the iron is not red hot,
only hot enough to cause the nitro-glycerine
to boil suddenly, a frightful explosion takes
place. The explosion of a single drop in this
manner will cause serious damage. This dan-
gerous compound requires most careful hand-
ling, a slight shock sometimes exploding it.
2143. To Prepare Nitro-glycerine.
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid at 50° Baume
with 200 parts sulphuric acid; when cool, add
38 parts glycerine slowly, allowing it to
trickle down the sides of the vessel. The
glycerine will remain on the surface for hours
without mixing. Stir the glycerine and acids
with a glass rod for 10 seconds, pour it into
20 times its volume of water, and the nitro-
glycerine will be instantly precipitated to the
extent of 76 parts, or double the amount of
glycerine employed. It must be repeatedly
washed with water, and then saturated with
bicarbonate of soda or lime.
2144. Blasting Powders. Neither
fresh nor salt water has any injurious effect
on blasting powders; they need only to be
dried to regain their explosive character.
Their emitting but little smoke renders them
useful in underground operations, and their
explosive force is eight times that of gun-
powder. They explode with extreme facility,
either by contact with a strong acid, a slight
elevation of temperature, or the slightest fric-
tion. In preparing them, therefore, excessive
precaution is necessary, especially in mixing
the ingredients. A straw, slightly wetted
with oil of vitriol, applied to a small heap of the
powder, will cause instantaneous explosion.
2145. To Make Blasting Powder.
Reduce separately to powder, 2 parts chlorate
of potassa and 1 part red sulphuret of arsenic;
mix very lightly together. Or: — Powder
separately, 5 parts chlorate of potassa, 2 parts
red sulphuret of arsenic, and 1 part ferrocyan-
ide of potassium (prussiate of potassa) ; mix
carefully. Or: — Mix carefully, as before,
after having separately reduced to powder,
equal parts chlorate of potassa and ferrocyanide
of potassium.
2146. Parlor or Congreve Matches.
Dissolve 16 parts gum-arabic in the least pos-
sible quantity of water, and mix with it 9
parts phosphorus in powder (sec No. 2696) ;
then add 14 parts nitre (saltpetre), and 16
parts of either vermilion (red sulphuret of
mercury), or binoxide (black oxide) of man-
ganese, and form the whole into a paste. Dip
the matches into this paste, and then let them
dry. "When quite dry they are to be dipped
into a very dilute copal or lac varnish, and
again dried; by this means they are less likely
to suffer from damp weather.
2147. Cheap Parlor Matches. A
cheaper paste for dipping may be made by
soaking 6 parts glue for 24 hours in a little
water, and liquefied by rubbing in a heated
mortar; 4 parts phosphorus are next added
at a heat not exceeding 150° Fahr.; then add
10 parts finely powdered saltpetre ; and lastly
5 parts red lead and 2 parts smalts are mixed
in, the whole being formed into a uniform
paste. The matches are dipped, dried, var-
nished, and dried again, as before.
2148. To Make Matches Without
Sulphur. To obviate the use of sulphur for
igniting the wood of the match, the ends of
the matches are first slightly charred by nib-
bing them against a red hot iron plate, and
then dipped into as much white wax, melted
in a suitable vessel, as will cover the bottom
about i inch in depth. Or they may be
dipped into camphorated spirit. Or into a
solution of 1 ounce Yenice turpentine and i
ounce camphor, in J pint oil of turpentine,
with a little gum-benzoin and cascarilla by
way of perfume. After any of the above
preparations the matches are ready for dip-
ping in the phosphorus paste.
2149. Substitute for Lucifer Matches.
The dangers arising from the universal adop-
tion of the common lucifer match have in-
duced chemists to seek a substitute for it. M.
Peltzer has recently proposed a compound
which is obtained m the shape of a violet
powder, by mixing together equal volumes of
solutions of sulphate of copper, one of which
is supersaturated with ammonia, and the
other with hyposulphite of soda. A mixture
of chlorate of potash and the above powder
will catch fire by percussion or rubbing; it
burns like gunpowder, and leaves a black
residue. M. Viederbold proposes a mixture
of hyposulphite of lead, or baryta, or chlorate
of potash, for matches without phosphorus.
The only inconvenience of this compound is
that it attracts moisture too easily.
2150. Mixtures for Matches. For
sulphur dips : Phosphorus, 3 parts ; glue, 6
parts ; sand, 1 part ; incorporated below 100°
Fahr., with 10 parts of water. Or, phospho-
rus, 5 parts ; fine sand, 4 parts ; red ochre, 1
part (or, ultramarine), £ part; gum-arabic, 5
parts, in 6 pints of water (or, 4 parts of glue
in 9 parts or water). For stearine dips : Phos-
phorus, 3 parts; brown oxide of lead, 2 parts;
turpentine, | part, softened in 3 parts water.
Instead of the brown oxide, 2 parts of red
lead stirred up with i part of nitric acid may
be used.
Cements and Uniting
^-"^ Bod.i6S. In the preparation of ce-
ments and all substances intended to produce
close adhesion, whether in a semi-fluid or
pasty state, freedom from dirt and grease is a
most essential and necessary condition. Quite
as much depends upon the manner in which a
cement is applied as upon the cement itself.
The best cement that ever was compounded
would prove entirely worthless if improperly
applied. The preparations given below will
be found to answer every reasonable demand;
and if prop"erly prepared and used strictly ac-
cording to the directions laid down, will sel-
dom fail to form a union as strong, if not
stronger than the substances joined. The
first point that demands attention, is to bring
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES
209
the cement itself into intimate contact with
the surface to be united. This end is best
reached, when using hot cements, by making
the edges to be joined at least as hot as the
cement when applied, or as nearly so as can
be done without injury to the substance; in
eorne cases it is even preferable to melt the
cement on the heated edges. Another very
important point is to use as little cement as
possible. "WTien the surfaces are separated by
a large mass of cement, we have to depend
upon the strength of the cement itself, and
not upon its adhesion to the surfaces which it
is used to join ; and, in general, cements are
comparatively brittle. Sealing-wax is a very
good agent for uniting mefeal to glass or stone,
provided the masses to be united are made so
hot as to fuse the cement ; but if the cement
is applied to them while they are cold, it will
not stick at all. This fact is well known to
venders of cement for uniting earthenware.
By heating two pieces, so that they will fuse
shellac, they are able to join them so that
they will rather break at any other part than
along the line of union. But although people
constantly see the operation performed, and
buy liberally of the cement, it will be found
in nine cases out of ten the cement proves
worthless in their hands, simply because they
do not know how to use it. They are afraid
to heat a delicate glass or porcelain vessel to
a sufficient degree, and they are apt to use too
much of the material, and the result is a fail-
ure ; the cement is consequently deemed
good for nothing. The great obstacles to the
junction of any two surfaces are air and dirt.
The former is universally present, the latter is
due to accident or carelessness. All surfaces
are covered with a thin adhering layer of air
which it is difficult to remove, and unless this
is displaced, the cement cannot adhere to the
surface to which it is applied, simply because
it cannot come into contact with it. The
most efficient agent in displacing this adher-
ing air is heat. Metals warmed to a point a
little above 200° become instantly and com-
pletely wet when immersed in water. Hence,
for cements that are used in a fused condition,
heat is the most efficient means of bring-
ing them in contact with the surfaces to
which they are to be applied. In the case of
glue, the adhesion is best attained by moder-
ate pressure and friction.
2152. Armenian or Jeweler's Ce-
ment. The following is a receipt for a
strong cement used by some oriental nations,
for the purpose of attaching precious stones
to metallic surfaces : Take 6 pieces of gum
mastic, the size of a pea, and dissolve them
in the smallest possible quantity of 95 per
cent, alcohol. Soften some isinglass in wa-
ter (though none of the water must be used),
and saturate strong brandy with it till you
have 2 ounces of glue ; then rub in 2 small
pieces of gum ammoniac. Mix the two pre-
parations at a heat. Keep well stoppered.
Set the bottle in hot water before using. It
is said by the Turks that this preparation will
unite two metallic surfaces, even of polished
steel.
2153. Keller's Armenian Cement for
Glass, China, &c. Soak 2 drachms cut
isinglass in 2 ounces water for 24 hours ; boil
down to 1 ounce ; add 1 ounce spirit of wine,
and strain through linen. Mix this, while hot,
with a solution of 1 drachm mastic in 1 ounce
rectified spirit, and triturate thoroughly with
| drachm powdered gum ammoniac.
2154. Tire's Diamond Cement. Take
1 ounce isinglass and 6 ounces distilled water;
boil down to 3 ounces ; add 1£ ounces recti-
fied spirit. Boil for 2 minutes, strain, and
add, while hot, h ounce of a milky emulsion
of ammoniac, and 5 drachms tincture of gum
mastic.
2155. Chinese Cement. Take of or-
ange shellac, bruised, 4 ounces ; highly recti-
fied spirit of wine, 3 ounces. Set the mixture
in a warm place, frequently shaking it till the
shellac is dissolved. Wood naphtha may be
substituted for the spirit of wine, but the un-
pleasant smell of the naphtha is some objec-
tion.
2156. To Mend Broken Glass. A
much better process for mending broken
glass, china and earthenware with shellac,
than heating them, is to dissolve the shellac
in alcohol to about the consistence of molasses,
and with a thin splinter of wood or pencil-
brush touch the edges of the broken ware. In
a short time it sets without any heating, which
is often inconvenient. It will stand every
contingency but a heat equal to boiling
water.
2157. To Mend Crockery Ware.
One of the strongest cements and easiest ap-
plied for this purpose is lime and the white
of an egg. To use it, take a sufficient quan-
tity of the egg to mend one article at a time,
shave off a quantity of lime, and mix thor-
oughly. Apply quickly to the edges and
place firmly together, when it will very soon
become set and strong. Mix but a small
quantity at once, as it hardens very soon, so
that it cannot be used. Calcined plaster of
Paris would answer the same purpose.
2158. Badigeon. A cement used by
operatives and artists to fill up holes and
cover defects in their work. Statuaries use a
mixture of plaster and free-stone for this pur-
pose ; carpenters, a mixture of sawdust and
glue, or of whiting and glue ; coopers use a
mixture of tallow and chalk. The same
name is given to a stone colored mixture used
for the fronts of houses, and said to be com-
posed of wood-dust and lime slacked together,
stone-powder, and a little umber or sienna,
mixed up with alum water to the consistence
of paint.
2159. Japanese Cement. Intimately
mix the best powdered rice with a little cold
water, then gradually add boiling water until
a proper consistence is acquired, being par-
ticularly careful to keep it well stirred all the
time ; lastly, it must be boiled for one minute
in a clean sauce-pan or earthen pipkin. This
glue is beautifully white and almost transpar-
ent, for which reason it is well adapted for
fancy paper work, which requires a strong
and colorless cement.
2160. Curd Cement. Add i pint vine-
gar to | pint skimmed milk. Mix the curd
with the whites of 5 eggs well beaten, and
sufficient powdered quick-lime sifted in with
constant stirring, so as to form a paste. It
resists water, and a moderate degree of heat,
and is useful for joining small pieces of marble
or alabaster.
210
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
2161. To Make a Cement that will
Resist Benzine and Petroleum. It has
quite recently been discovered that gelatine
mixed with glycerine yields a compound li-
quid when hot, but which solidifies on cooling,
and forms a tough, elastic substance, having
much the appearance and characteristics of
India rubber. The two substances united
form a mixture entirely and absolutely insol-
uble in petroleum or benzine, and the great
problem of making casks impervious to these
fluids is at once solved by brushing or paint-
ing them on the inside with the compound.
This is also used for printers' rollers and for
buffers of stamps, as benzine or petroleum
will clean them when dirty in the most perfect
manner and in an incredibly short space of
time. "Water must not be used with this com-
pound.
2162. Cement to Resist Petroleum.
A cement peculiarly adapted to stand petro-
leum or any of its distillates is made by boil-
ing 3 parts resin with 1 caustic soda and 5
water. This forms a resin soap which is after-
ward mixed with half its weight of plaster of
Paris, zinc white, white lead, or precipitated
chalk. The plaster hardens in about 40 min-
utes.
2163. Cement for Aquaria. Mix 3
pounds well dried Venetian red (finely pow-
dered) with 1 pound oxide of iron, and add as
much boiling oil as will reduce it to a stiff
paste.
2164. Cement for Marine Aquaria.
Take 10 parts by measure litharge, 10 parts
plaster of Paris, 10 parts dry white sand, 1
part finely powdered resin, and mix them,
when wanted for use, into a pretty stiff putty
with boiled linseed oil. This will stick to
wood, stone, metal, or glass, and hardens
under water. It is also good for marine aqua-
ria, as it resists the action of salt water. It is
better not to use the tank until 3 days after it
has been cemented.
2165. Water Cement. Manganese is
found to be a valuable ingredient in water ce-
ments. 4 parts gray clay are to be mixed
with 6 parts black oxide of manganese, and
about 90 parts good lime stone reduced to
fine powder, the whole to be calcined to expel
the carbonic acid ; when well calcined and
cooled, to be worked into the consistence of
a stiff paste, with 60 parts washed sand.
2166. Cement for Glass Syringes.
Take resin, 2 parts; gutta percha, 1 part;
melt together over a slow fire, apply hot, and
trim with a hot knife.
2167. Quickly-Setting Bust Joint
Cement. Make into a paste with water 1
part by weight sal ammoniac in powder, 2
parts flower of sulphur, and 80 parts iron
borings.
2168. Slowly-Setting Bust Joint Ce-
ment. Make into a paste with water, 2 parts
eal ammoniac, 1 part flower of sulphur, and
200 parts iron borings. This cement is better
than the last if the joint is not required for
immediate use.
2169. Bed Lead Cement for Face
Joints. Mix 1 part each white and red lead
with linseed oil to the proper consistence.
2170. Singer's Cement for Electrical
Machines and Galvanic Troughs. Melt
together 5 pounds resin., and 1 pound bees'
wax, and stir in 1 pound red ochre (highly
dried, and still warm), with 4 ounces Paris
plaster, continuing the heat a little above 212°
and stirring constantly till all frothing ceases.
Or, (for troughs), resin, 6 pounds ; dried red
ochre, 1 pound; calcined plaster of Paris, i
pound ; linseed oil, £ pound.
2171. Cement for Bopms. M. Sarel,
of Paris, has made an invention which is pro-
nounced better than plaster of Paris for coat-
ing the walls and ceilings of rooms. A coat
of oxide of zinc, mixed with size, made up
like a wash, is first laid on, and over that a
coat of chloride of zinc applied, prepared in
the same way as the first wash. The oxide
and chloride effect an immediate combination,
and form a kind of cement, smooth and pol-
ished as glass, and possessing the advantages
of oil paint without its disadvantages of smell.
2172. Coppersmith's or Blood Ce-
ment. Bullock's blood thickened with finely
powdered quicklime makes a good cement to
secure the edges and rivets of copper boilers,
to mend leaks from joints, &c. It must be
used as soon as mixed, as it rapidly gets hard.
It is extremely cheap and very durable, and
is suited for many purposes where a strong
cement is required.
2173. Pew's Composition for Cover-
ing Buildings. Take the hardest and purest
limestone (white marble is to be preferred),
free from sand, clay, or other matter ; calcine
it in a reverberatory furnace, pulverize, and
pass it through a sieve. 1 part, by weight, is
to be mixed with 2 parts clay well baked and
similarly pulverized, conducting the whole
operation with great care. This forms the
first powder. The second is to be made of 1
part calcined and pulverized gypsum, to
which is added 2 parts clay, baked and pul-
verized. These two powders are to* be com-
bined, and intimately incorporated, so as to
form a perfect mixture. When it is to be
used, mix it with about a fourth part of its
weight of water, added gradually, stirring the
mass well the whole time, until it forms a
thick paste, in which state it is to be spread
like mortar upon the desired surface. It be-
comes in time as hard as stone, allows no
moisture to penetrate, and is not cracked by
heat. "When well prepared it will last any
length of time. "When in its plastic or soft
state, it may be colored of any desired tint.
2174. Hard Hydraulic Cement. A
cement which is said to have been used with
great success in covering terraces, lining ba-
sins, cementing stones, etc., resisting the fil-
tration of water, and so hard that it scratches
iron, is formed of 63 parts well-burned brick,
and 7 parts litharge, pulverized and moistened
with linseed oil. Moisten the surfaces to
which it is to be applied.
2175. Universal Cement. Dissolve 2
ounces mastic in just enough 95 per cent, al-
cohol to effect a solution. Then soak 2
ounces isinglass, or fish-glue until it is thor-
oughly softened. Dissolve the isinglass in
proof spirits sufficient to form a strong glue,
and then add 1 ounce finely pulverized gum am-
moniac. "Warm the two mixtures together
over a slow fire, and when they are thorough-
ly mixed, bottle and hermetically seal them.
This cement becomes perfectly dry in 12 or
15 hours. "When the cement is to be used,
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
211
the bottle should be heated in a water bath to
liquefy it; the fragments to be cementec
should also be heated before joining them,
and, as a matter of course, the surfaces we!
cleaned. Glass, crockery, &c., restored by
the above cement, are as solid as before hav-
i ing been mended, and the seams are scarcely
I risible.
2176. To Cement Amber. Amber is
joined or mended by smearing the surface?
with boiled linseed oil, and strongly pressing
them together, at the same time holding them
over a charcoal fire or heating them in any
other way that will not injure the amber.
2177. To Cement Alabaster and Plas-
ter. Ornaments of alabaster or plaster may
be joined together by means of a little white
of egg, thickened with finely-powdered quick-
lime, or by a mixture of newly-baked and
finely-powdered plaster of Paris, mixed up
with the least possible quantity of water.
2178. Mending Plaster Models. Wax
and resin, or shellac varnish, is recommended
for the above purpose. Dr. Chaim suggests
the use of liquid silex. "Wet the two surfaces
with it, and allow a few moments to dry. It
will be found very useful in cases of accident
to a cast.
2179. Waterproof Mastic Cement.
Mix together 1 part red lead to 5 parts ground
lime, and 5 parts sharp sand, with boiled oil.
Or : 1 part red lead to 5 whiting and 10 sharp
sand mixed with boiled oil.
2180. Marble Workers' Cement.
Flower of sulphur, 1 part ; hydrochlorate of
ammonia, 2 parts ; iron filings, 16 parts. The
above substances must be reduced to a pow-
der, and securely preserved in closely stop-
ped vessels. "When the cement is to be em-
ployed, take 20 parts very fine iron filings,
add 1 part of the above powder, mix them
together with enough water to form a man-
ageable paste. This paste solidifies in 20
days and becomes as hard as iron.
2181. Masons' Cement for Coating
the Insides of Cisterns. Take equal parts
of quicklime, pulverized baked bricks, and
wood ashes. Thoroughly mix the above sub-
stances, and dilute with sufficient olive oil to
form a manageable paste. This cement imme-
diately hardens in the air, and never cracks
beneath the water.
2182. Colored Cements. Professor
Boettger prepares cement of different colors
and great hardness by mixing various bases
with soluble glass. Soluble soda glass of 33°
Baume is to be thoroughly stirred and mixed
with fine chalk, and the coloring matter (see
12 following receipts} well incorporated. In
the course of 6 or 8 hours a hard cement will
set, which is capable of a great variety of
uses. As soluble glass can be kept on hand
in liquid form, and the chalk and coloring
matters are permanent and cheap, the colored
cements can be readily prepared when wanted,
and the material can be kept in stock, ready
for use, at but little expense. Boettger re-
commeuds the following coloring matters :
2183. Black Cement. "Well sifted sul-
phide of antimony, mixed with soluble glass
and chalk (see No. 2182), gives a black mass,
which, after solidifying, can be polished or
burnished with agate, and then possesses a
fine metallic lustre.
2184. Grey-Black Cement. Fine iron
dust, mixed as in No. 2182, gives a grey-black
cement.
2185. Grey Cement. Zinc dust. This,
used as in No. 2182, makes a grey mass, ex-
ceedingly hard, which, on polishing, exhibits
a brilliant metallic lustre of zinc, so that
broken or defective zinc castings may be
mended and restored by a cement that might
be called a cold zinc casting. It adheres firm-
ly to metal, stone, and wood.
2186. Bright Green Cement. Carbon-
ate of copper, used according to No. 2182,
gives a bright green cement.
2187. Dark Green Cement. Sesqui-
oxide of chromium, mixed as in No. 2182,
gives a dark green cement.
2188. Blue Cement. Thenard's blue,
used as in No. 2182, makes a blue cement.
2189. Yellow Cement. Litharge, with
soluble glass, <fcc., see No. 2182, gives a yel-
low cement.
2190. Bright Bed Cement. Cinnabar,
used as directed in No. 2182, makes a bright
red cement.
2191. Violet Bed Cement. Carmine,
used as in No. 2182, yields a violet red cement.
2192. White Cement. The soluble
glass with fine chalk alone (see No. 2182)
gives a white cement of great beauty and
hardness.
2193. Black Cement. Sulphide of an-
timony and iron dust, in equal proportions,
stirred in with soluble glass (see No. 2182),
afford an exceedingly firm black cement.
2194. Dark Grey Cement. Zinc dust
and iron in equal proportions, used as in No.
2182, yield a hard dark grey cement.
2195. Portland Cement. Portland ce-
ment is formed of clay and limestone, gener-
ally containing some silica, the properties of
which may vary without injury to the ce-
ment. The proportion of clay may also vary
from 19 to 25 per cent, without detriment.
The only necessary condition for the forma-
tion of a good artificial Portland cement, is
an intimate and homogeneous mixture of car-
bonate of lime and clay, the proportion of
clay being as above stated. The materials
are raised to a white heat in kilns of the prop-
er form, so that they are almost vitrified.
After the calcination all pulverulent and scor-
ified portions are carefully pricked out and
thrown away. The remainder is then finely
ground and becomes ready for use. The
amount of water which enters into combina-
tion with it in mixing is about .366 by weight.
It sets slowly, from 12 to 18 hours being re-
quired. Made into a thin solution like
whitewash, this cement gives woodwork all
the appearance of having been painted and
sanded. Piles of stone may be set together
with common mortar, and then the whole
washed over with this cement, making it look
like one immense rock of grey sandstone.
For temporary use a flour-barrel may have
the hoops nailed, and the inside washed with
a little Portland cement, and it will do for a
year or more to hold water. Boards nailed
;ogether, and washed with it, make good hot-
water tanks. Its water-resisting properties
make it useful for a variety of purposes.
2196. Mastic Cements, or Pierre Ar-
;ificielle. Boettger says that these cements
212
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
are mixtures of 100 parts each of sand, lime-
stone, and litharge, with 7 parts linseed oil.
These ingredients, carefully mixed and well
worked together, will have the consistency of
moist sand, and at first but little coherence.
When pressed, however, the mixture gradual-
ly acquires the hardness of ordinary sand-
stone, and in six months time will emit sparks
when struck with steel. The binding agents
in such cements are the litharge and oil, the
sand giving the body, and limestone or chalk
filling up the interstices.
2197. Coarse Stuff for Plastering.
Coarse stuff, or lime and hair, as it is some-
times called, is prepared in the same way as
common mortar, with the addition of hair
procured from the tanner, which must be well
mixed with the mortar by means of a three-
pronged rake, until the hair is equally dis-
tributed throughout the composition. The
mortar should be first formed, and when the
lime and sand have been thoroughly mixed,
the hair should be added by degrees, and the
whole so thoroughly united that the hair shall
appear to be equally distributed throughout.
2198. Fine Stuff for Plastering. This
is made by slacking lime with a small portion
of water, after which sufficient water is added
to give it the consistence of cream. It is
then allowed to settle for some time, and the
superfluous water is poured off, and the sedi-
ment suffered to remain till evaporation re-
duces it to a proper thickness for use. For
some kinds of work it is necessary to add a
small portion of hair.
2199. Stucco for Inside of Walls.
This stucco consists of 3 parts fine stuff (see
No. 2198) and 1 part fine washed sand. Those
parts of interior walls which are intended to
be painted are finished with this stucco. In
using this material, great care must be taken
that the surface be perfectly level, and to
secure this it must be well worked with a
floating tool or wooden trowel. This is done
by sprinkling a little water occasionally on
the stucco, and rubbing it in a circular direction
with the float, till the surface has attained a
high gloss. The durability of the work much
depends upon how it is done, for if not
thoroughly worked it is apt to crack.
2200. Gauge Stuff. This is chiefly
used for mouldings and cornices which are
run or formed with a wooden mould. It con-
sists of about £ plaster of Paris, mixed grad-
ually with $ fine stuff. (See No. 2198.)
When the work is required to set very expe-
ditiously, the proportion of plaster of Paris is
increased. It is often necessary that the
plaster to be used should have the property
of setting immediately it is laid on, and in all
such cases gauge stuff is used, and conse-
quently it is extensively employed for cement-
i ing ornaments to walls or ceilings, as well as
for casting the ornaments themselves.
2201. Higgins' Stucco. To 15 pounds
best stone lime add 14 pounds bone ashes,
finely powdered, and about 95 pounds clean,
washed sand, quite dry, either coarse or fine,
according to the nature of the work in hand.
These ingredients must be intimately mixed,
and kept from the air till wanted. When re-
quired for use, it must be mixed up into a
proper consistence for working with lime wa-
ter, and used as speedily as possible.
2202. Durable Composition for Or-
naments. This is frequently used, instead
of plaster of Paris, for the ornamental parts of
buildings, as it is more durable, and becomes
in time as hard as stone itself. It is of great
use in the execution of the decorative parts
of architecture, and also in the finishings of
picture frames, being a cheaper method than
carving, by nearly 80 per cent. It is made as
follows: 2 pounds best whitening, 1 pound glue,
and i pound linseed oil are heated together,
the composition being continually stirred until
the different substances are thoroughly incor-
porated. Let the compound cool, and then lay
it on a stone covered with powdered whiten-
ing, and heat it well until it becomes of a
tough and firm consistence. It may then be
Eut by for use, covered with wet cloths to
eep it fresh. When wanted for use it must
be cut into pieces adapted to the size of the
mould, into which it is forced by a screw
press. The ornament, or cornice, is fixed to
the frame or wall with glue, or with white
lead.
2203. Roman Cement. Calcine 3 parts
of any ordinary clay, and mix it with 2 parts
lime ; grind it to powder, and calcine again.
This makes a beautiful cement, improperly
called Koman, since the preparation was en-
tirely unknown to the Romans.
2204. New Plastic Material. A beau-
tiful plastic substance can be prepared by
mixing collodion with phosphate of lime.
The phosphate should be pure, or the color of
the compound will be unsatisfactory. On
setting, the mass is found to be hard and sus-
ceptible of a very fine polish. The material
can be used extensively, applied in modes that
will suggest themselves to any intelligent
artist, to high class decoration. . «<• ,.
2205. Concrete. A compact mass,
composed of pebbles, lime, and sand, em-
ployed in the foundations of buildings. The
best proportions are 60 parts of coarse pebbles,
25 of rough sand, and 15 of lime ; others re-
commend 80 parts pebbles, 40 parts river sand,
and only 10 parts lime. The pebbles should
not exceed about i pound each in weight.
Abb6 Moigno, in his valuable scientific journal,
" Les Mondes," relates his personal experience
with a concrete formed of fine wrought and
cast iron filings and Portland cement. The
Abbe states that a cement made thus is hard
enough to resist any attempts to fracture it.
As he states that the iron filings are to replace
the sand usually put into the mixture, we
presume that the relative quantities are to be
similar.
2206. Concrete Floors and "Walks.
Compost for barn and kitchen floors : — After
the ground on which the floor is intended to
be made is leveled, let it be covered to the
thickness of 3 or 4 inches with stones, broken
small, and well rammed down; upon which
let there be run, about Ik inches above the
stones, 1 part by measure calcined ferruginous
marl, and 2 parts coarse sand and fine gravel,
mixed to a thin consistence with water. Be-
fore this coating has become thoroughly set,
lay upon it a coat of calcined marl, mixed
with an equal part of fine sand, 1 to li inches
thick, leveled to an even surface. The addi-
tion of blood will render this compost harder.
The calcined marl mentioned above is the
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
213
Portland cement of commerce. (See No
2195.)
2207. Concrete Gravel "Walk. Dig
away the earth to the depth of about 5 inches
then lay a bottom of pebbles, ramming them
well down with a paving rammer. Sweep
them off as clean as possible with a broom
and cover the surface thinly with hot coal tar
Now put on a coat of smaller gravel (thefirsl
bed of pebbles should be as large as goose,
eggs), previously dipped in hot coal tar,
drained, and rolled in coal ashes, with an
intermixture of fine gravel, and roll it down
as thoroughly as possible. Let the roller run
slowly, and let a boy follow it with a hoe tc
scrape off all adhering gravel. Next put on a
coat of fine gravel or sand, and coal tar, with
some coal ashes, to complete the surface, and
roll again as thoroughly as possible; the
more rolling the better. It will take some
weeks to harden, but makes a splendid hard
surface which sheds water like a roof. Do
not use too much tar. It is only necessary
to use enough to make the ingredients cohere
under pressure, and a little is better than too
much. Such a surface will last in a farmyard
a great while.
2208. Cheap Concrete Flooring. Mix
3 bushels coal ashes from a blacksmith's shop
with 2 bushels gas lime, and then add suffi-
cient gas tar to make a stiff mortar. If the
ammoniacal liquor has been separated from the
tar, its place must be supplied by adding wa-
ter till the tar is thin enough for use. For
stables and cattle sheds, the mortar can be
laid down with a spade, and fine sharp sand
or gravel sifted over it ; then roll well, and
you will have a good concrete floor. It will
take a few days to get thoroughly hard, even
in dry weather ; but it will be a good piece of
work, if carefully done. Autumn is the best
time for laying this kind of pavement.
2209. Keene's Marble Cement. This
is made of baked gypsum or plaster of Paris,
steeped in a saturated solution of alum, and
then recalcined and reduced to powder. For
use, it is mixed with "water, as ordinary
plaster of Paris. This cement has been most
extensively applied as a stucco ; but the finer
qualities (when colored by the simple process
of infusing mineral colors in the water with
which the cement powder is finally mixed for
working), being susceptible of a high degree
of polish, produce beautiful imitations of
mosaic, and other inlaid marbles, scagliola,
<fcc. The cement is not adapted to hydraulic
purposes, nor for exposure to the weather, but
has been used as a stucco for internal decora-
tions, and from its extreme hardness is very
durable. A pleasing tint is given to this
cement by adding a little solution of green
copperas to the alum liquor.
2210. Parker's Cement. This valuable
cement is made of the nodules of indurated and
slightly ferruginous marl, called by mineral-
ogists septaria, and also of some other species
of argillaceous limestone. These are burned in
conical kilns, with pit coal, in a similar way
to other limestone, care being taken to avoid
the use of too much heat, as, if the pieces un-
dergo the slightest degree of fusion, even on
the surface, they will be unfit to form the
cement. After being properly roasted, the
calx is reduced to a very fine powder by
grinding, and immediately packed in barrels,
to keep it from the air and moisture. It is
tempered with water to a proper consistence,
and applied at once, as it soon hardens, and
will not bear being again softened down with
water. For foundations and cornices exposed
to the weather, it is usually mixed with an
equal quantity of clean angular sand ; for use
as a common mortar, with about twice as
much sand ; for coating walls exposed to cold
and wet, the common proportions are 3 of
sand to 2 of cement, and for walls exposed to
extreme dryness or heat, about 2k or 3 of sand
to 1 of cement; for facing cistern work, water
frontages, &c., nothing but cement and water
should be employed. This cement, under the
name of compo, or Eoman cement, is much
employed for facing houses, water-cisterns,
setting the foundations of large edifices, <fcc.
It is perhaps the best of all cements for
stucco.
2211. Pollack's Cement for Iron and
Stone. This cement takes some little time
to dry, but turns almost as hard as stone, and
is fire and water-proof. For mending cracks
in stone or cast-iron ware, where iron filings
cannot be had, it is invaluable. Take litharge
and red lead, equal parts, mix thoroughly and
make into a paste with concentrated glycerine
to the consistency of soft putty ; fill the crack
and smear a thin layer on both sides of the
casting so as to completely cover the fracture.
This layer can be rubbed off if necessary when
nearly dry by an old knife or chisel. M.
Pollack has used it to fasten the different
portions of a fly-wheel with great success;
while, when placed between stones, and once
hardened, it is easier to break the stone than
the joint.
2212. Cement from Furnace Slag.
Furnace slag can be made to furnish an excel-
lent cement by selecting such portions of it as
are readily dissolved in dilute hydrochloric
acid. On subjecting it to the action of the
acid, silica is thrown down, which is afterward
to be washed, dried, and pulverized. One
part of this is next to be mixed with 9 parts
powdered slag and the necessary quantity of
slacked lime. This matter soon hardens, and
rivals the best cement in its durability.
2213. Zeiodite. This substance is made
by mixing 20 to 30 parts roll sulphur with 24
parts powdered glue or pumice, which forms
a mass as hard as stone that resists the action
of water and the strongest acids. Prof. E.
Boettger recommends it, therefore, for making
water-tight and air-tight cells for galvanic
batteries.
2214. Cement for Closing Cracks in
Stoves, etc. A useful cement for closing
up cracks in stove plates, stove doors, etc., is
prepared by mixing finely-pulverized iron,
such as can be procured at the druggists, with
liquid water-glass, to a thick paste, and then
coating the cracks with it. The hotter the
ire then becomes, the more does the cement
melt and combine with its metallic ingredi-
ents, and the more completely will the crack
jecome closed.
2215. Cement for Fastening Iron to
Stone. A cement for fastening iron to stone,
which becomes nearly as hard as the stone
tself, consists of 6 parts Portland cement, 1
mrt powdered lime, not slacked, 2 parts sand,
314.
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
and 1 part slacked lime, mixed with water to
the proper consistency, the stone and iron
both being previously dampened. In 48 hours
it will have set firmly.
2216. Strong Cement for Iron. To
4 or 5 parts clay, thoroughly dried and pulver-
ized, add 2 parts iron filings free from oxide,
1 part peroxide of manganese, ^ part of sea
salt, and £ part borax. Mingle thoroughly,
and render as fine as possible ; then reduce to
a thick paste with the necessary quantity of
water, mixing thoroughly. It must be used
immediately. After application, it should be
exposed to warmth, gradually increasing al-
most to white^ heat. This cement is very
hard, and presents complete resistance alike
to a red heat and boiling water.
2217. Cement for Iron. An excellent
cement is made by mixing equal parts of
sifted peroxide of manganese and well-pulver-
ized zinc white, adding a sufficient quantity of
commercial soluble glass to form a thin paste.
This mixture, when used immediately, forms
a cement quite equal in hardness and resistance
to that given in the last receipt.
2218. Cement for Uniting Stone,
Derbyshire Spar, etc. Melt together 4
ounces resin, i, ounce wax, and about an
ounce finely-sifted plaster of Paris. The
articles to be joined should be well cleaned,
then made hot enough to melt the cement, and
the pieces pressed together very closely, so as
to leave as little as possible of the composition
between the joints. This is a general rule
with all cements, as the thinner the stratum
of cement interposed the firmer it will hold.
2219. Cheap Artificial Building
Stone. A large number of houses have been
constructed in Paris, for workmen, of the fol-
lowing materials : 100 parts plaster of Paris,
10 parts hydraulic lime, 5 parts liquid glue,
and 500 parts cold water, are intimately mixed
and poured into moulds of any desired size
and shape ; and in half an hour the form can
be removed. The stones are then exposed in
the open air for 2 weeks, until they are thor-
oughly dry. Artificial stone thus prepared,
has the ring and hardness of the native rock ;
and, where the materials are abundant, is said
to be 25 per cent, cheaper than quarried stone.
2220. Simple and Useful Cement.
Alum and plaster of Paris, well mixed in wa-
ter and used in the liquid state, form a hard
composition and also a useful cement.
2221. Cement for Fastening Instru-
ments in Handles. A material for fasten-
ing knives or forks into their handles, when
they have become loosened by use, is a much-
needed article. The best cement for this pur-
pose consists of 1 pound resin and 8 ounces
sulphur, which are to be melted together and
either kept in bars or reduced to powder. 1
part of the powder is to be mixed with ^ a
part of iron filings, fine sand, or brick-dust,
and the cavity of the handle is then to be filled
with this mixture. The stem of the knife or
fork is then to be heated and inserted into the
cavity ; and when cold it will be found firmly
fixed in its place.
2222. Cement for Fastening Iron
to Stone. Glycerine and litharge stirred to
a paste, hardens rapidly, and makes a suitable
cement for iron upon iron, for two stone sur-
faces, and especially for fastening iron to
stone. The cement is insoluble, and is not
attacked by strong acids.
2223. Vegetable Cement. A good
vegetable cement may be prepared by mixing
gum-arabic with nitrate of lime. The latter
is prepared by dissolving an excess of marble
in nitric acid, and filtering. The filtered so-
lution will contain 33.3 per cent, nitrate of
lime, which may be dried by evaporation.
For the cement, take 2 parts by weight of the
nitrate of lime, 20 parts pulverized gum-
arabic, and 25 parts water. The mixture
can be further diluted to adapt it to the uses
to which it is to be applied. In the manufac-
ture of artificial stone, a cement of a similar
character has been found to serve a good pur-
pose. Something of the kind is used in the
Frear stone, but in the Beton-Coignet no ad-
ditional binding material is found necessary.
2224. Cement for Leaky House
Hoofs. Take 4 pounds resin, 1 pint linseed
oil, 2 ounces red lead, and stir in pulverized
sand until the proper consistency is secured,
and apply it warm. This cement 'becomes
hard and yet possesses considerable elasticity,
and is durable and waterproof.
2225. Engineer's Cement. Mix ground
white lead with as much powdered red lead
as will make it of the consistence of putty.
This cement is employed by engineers and
others to make metallic joints. A washer of
hemp, yarn, or canvas, smeared with the ce-
ment, is placed in the joint, which is then
screwed up tight. It dries as hard as stone.
This cement answers well for joining broken
stones, however large. Cisterns built of
square stones, put together, while dry, with
this cement, will never leak or require repair.
It is only necessary to use it for an inch or
two next the water; the rest of the joint
may be filled with good mortar. It is* better,
however, to use it for the whole joint. (See
No. 21G9.)
2226. Plumbers' Cement. Melt 1
pound black resin, then stir in 1 to 2 pounds
brick-dust. Sometimes a little tallow is
added.
2227. Red Cement. The red cement
used for uniting glass to metals is made by
melting 5 parts black resin with 1 part yellow
wax, and then stirring in gradually 1 part red
ochre or Venetian red, in fine powder, and
previously well dried, This cement requires
to be melted before use, and it adheres better
if the objects to which it is applied are
warmed.
2228. Turners' Cement. Melt togeth-
er bees' wax, 1 ounce ; resin, J ounce ; and
pitch, i ounce ; stir in the mixture some very
fine brick-dust to give it a body. If too soft,
add more resin; if too hard, more wax.
When nearly cold, make it up into cakes or
rolls for use. Used for fastening wood on a
turner's chuck.
2229. Temporary Cement for Opti-
cians, Jewelers, &c, A temporary cement
to fix optical glasses, stones, jewelry, &c., on
stocks or handles for the purpose of painting,
repairing, or ornamenting, is made by melting
together at a good heat, 2 ounces resin, 1
drachm wax, and 2 ounces whitening; with
this applied to the article when heated, a se-
cure hold may be obtained, unfixed at plea-
sure by heat.
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
215
2230. Cement for Fixing Metal to
Leather. "Wash the metal in hot gelatine,
steep the leather in hot gall-nut infusion, and
unite while hot.
2231. Cement for Fixing Metal to
Marble, Stone, or Wood. Mix together 4
parts carpenters' glue and 1 part Yenice tur-
pentine.
2232. Cement for Coating Acid
Troughs. Melt together 1 part pitch, 1 part
resin, and 1 part plaster of Paris (perfectly
dry.)
2233. To Cement Cloth to Polished
Metal. Cloth can be cemented to polished
iron shafts, hy first giving them a coat of best
white lead paint ; this being dried hard, coat
with best Russian glue, dissolved in water
containing a little vinegar or acetic acid.
2234. Cement for Gas Retorts. Anew
cement, especially adapted to the retorts of
gas-works, is very warmly recommended in a
German gas-light journal. It consists of fine-
ly-powdered barytes and a soluble water-glass ;
or the barytes and a solution of borax. The
joints are to be coated several times with this
cement, by means of a brush. The addition
of two-thirds of a part of clay improves the
cement, and the retorts will then stand a red
heat very well. Instead of the water-glass,
a solution of borax may be used, or even fine-
ly powdered white glass.
2235. Use of Silicate of Potassa in
Strengthening Fossil Skeletons. A very
judicious application of the silicate of potassa
(liquid glass) has been lately made at the
Museum of Jfatural History of Paris, in re-
pairing a great many fossil skeletons which
had been disjointed and broken by the shells
bursting in this Palace of Science. The solu-
tions have been first used diluted to about 30°
Baurne, and afterwards of a higher degree of
concentration. The adherence of the broken
or separated pieces is brought together by ap-
plying with a brush some of the solution of
the silicate of potassa on the parts to be
joined, then they are left to dry, and the joint
is hardly visible ; and the joined part is far
stronger than the remainder of the bone. Very
delicate and porous anatomical pieces, as skel-
etons of birds, insects, etc.. can be dipped re-
peatedly in more diluted solutions^ and thus
be rendered very hard and tenacious.
2236. Transparent Cement for Lenses,
&c. It is frequently found necessary to ce-
ment together two surfaces of transparent
glass, without destroying or injuring their
transparency ; this is especially the case in
compound lenses. The best cement for effect-
ing the union is Canada balsam, which, if too
thick, should be thinned with a little turpen-
tine, benzole, or ether. It is of importance
that no air bubbles be present. In order to
cement together the two parts of an achro-
matic lens (this consists of a double convex
lens fitting exactly into the concavity of
a plano-concave lens), having thoroughly
cleaned the surfaces to be brought in contact,
lay the glass, previously made warm, on a ta-
ble suitably covered to prevent the under sur-
face from being scratched. By means of a
peg of wood or otherwise, convey a drop of
the balsam to the centre of the lens, and then
gently lower down upon it the lens to be ce-
mented to it, also previously made slightly
warm. Now apply a slight pressure, and the
dark disc in the centre, indicative of optical
contact, will rapidly increase in size, until at
last the balsam reaches the margin and begins
to ooze out at the edges, if the balsam be
present in excess, as it should be. By
means of a piece of soft string passed cross-
wise over the lenses, tie the two together, and
place them in a stove, an oven, or before a
fire, for a short time, until the balsam at the
edges shall have become hard and dry. Let
the string then be removed and the lens freed
from all external traces of balsam by means
of benzole or ether. The above directions,
modified to suit circumstances, apply to tho
cementation of transparencies or opal pic-
tures ; also to the varnishing of magic lan-
tern slides, and the protection of any transpa-
rent surfaces from the air.
2237. Cement for Chemical Glasses.
Mix equal parts of wheat flour, finely-pow-
dered Yenice glass, pulverized chalk, and a
small quantity of brick-dust, finely ground;
these ingredients, with a little scraped lint,
are to be mixed and ground up with the white
of eggs ; it must then be spread upon pieces
of fine linen cloth, and applied to the crack of
the glasses, and allowed to get thoroughly
dry before the glasses are put to the fire.
2238. Hermetical Sealing for Bottles.
Gelatine mixed with glycerine yields a com-
pound, liquid when hot, but becoming solid
by cooling, at the same time retaining much
elasticity. Bottles may be hermetically
sealed by dipping their necks into the liquid'
mixture, and repeating the operation until the
cap attains any thickness required.
2239. Cement to Seal Bottles Con-
taining Volatile Liquids. Chemists and
others know well the difficulty of keeping vol-
atile liquids. Bottles of ether, for example,
are shipped for India, and when they arrive
are found to be more than half empty. The
remedy with exporters is a luting of melted
sulphur, which is difficult to apply and hard to
remove. A new cement, easily prepared and
applied, and which is said to prevent the es-
cape of the most volatile liquids, is composed
of very finely ground litharge and concen-
trated glycerine, and is merely painted around
the cork or stopper. It quickly dries and be-
comes extremely hard, but can be easily
scraped off with a knife when it is necessary
to open the bottle.
2240. Cement for Sealing Corks in
Bottles. Take an equal quantity of resin
and bees' wax, melt them together, then put
in an almost equal bulk of finely-powdered
red chalk, add a small quantity of ueatsfoot
oil, let the whole boil 1 minute, then take it
from the fire and stir it well ; if too thick,
add a little more oil.
2241. Cement for Sealing the Corks
in Bottles. Melt together i pound sealing-
wax, the same quantity of resin, and 2 ounces
bees' wax. "When it froths stir it with a tal-
low caudle. As soon as it melts dip the
mouths of the corked bottles in it.
2242. Painters' Putty. Putty is made
of common whitening, pounded very fine,
and mixed with linseed oil till it becomes
about the thickness of dough.
2243. Quick Hardening Putty. A
putty of starch and chloride of zinc hardens
216
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
quickly, and lasts for months, as a stopper of
holes in metals.
2244. Cement to Stop Flaws or
Cracks in "Wood of any Color. Put any
quantity of fine sawdust, of the same wood
the work is made with, into an earthen pan,
and pour boiling water on it, stir it well, and
let it remain for a week or ten days, occasion-
ally stirring it ; then boil it for some time,
and it will be of the consistence of pulp or
paste ; put it into a coarse cloth, and squeeze
all the moisture from it. Keep for use, aud,
when wanted, mix a sufficient quantity of thin
glue to make it into a paste ; rub it well into
the cracks, or fill up the holes in the work
with it. When quite hard and dry, clean the
work off, and, if carefully done, the imperfec-
tion will be scarcely discernible.
2245. Cement for Cloth, Leather, or
Belting. Take ale, 1 pint ; best Eussia isin-
glass, 2 ounces; put them into a common
glue kettle and boil until the isinglass is dis-
solved ; then add 4 ounces best glue, and dis-
solve it with the other; then slowly add 1£
ounces boiled linseed oil, stirring all the time
while adding and until well mixed. When
cold it will resemble India rubber. To use
this, dissolve what is needed in a suitable
quantity of ale to the consistence of thick
glue. It is applicable for leather, for harness,
bands for machinery, cloth belts for cracker
machines for bakers, &c., &c. If for leather,
shave off as if for sewing, apply the cement
with a brush while hot, laying a weight to
keep each joint firmly for 6 to 10 hours, or
over night.
2246. Cement for Leather Belting.
Take of common glue and American isinglass,
equal parts ; place them, in a glue-pot and add
water sufficient to just cover the whole. Let
it soak 10 hours, then bring the whole to a
boiling heat, and add pure tannin until the
whole becomes ropey or appears like the white
of eggs. Apply it warm. Buff the grain
off the leather where it is to be cemented;
rub the joint surfaces solidly together, let it
dry a few hours, and it is ready for use ; and, if
properly put together, it will not need rivet-
ing, as the cement is nearly of the same -na-
ture as the leather itself. We know of no ce-
ment better either for emery wheels or emery
belts than the best glue. In an experience of
fifteen years we never found anything supe-
rior.
2247. Gutta-Percha Cement. This
highly recommended cement is made by melt-
ing together, in an iron pan, 2 parts common
pitch and 1 part gutta-percha, stirring them
well together until thoroughly incorporated,
and then pouring the liquid into cold water.
When cold it is black, solid, and elastic ; but
it softens with heat, and at 100° Fahr. is a
thin fluid. It may be used as a soft paste, or
in the liquid state, and answers an excellent
purpose in cementing metal, glass, porcelain,
ivory, &c. It may be used instead of putty
for glazing windows.
2248. To Dissolve India Rubber for
Cement, &c. India rubber dissolves readily
in rectified sulphuric ether, which has been
washed with water to remove alcohol and
acidity; also in chloroform. These make
odorless solutions, but are too expensive for
general use. The gum dissolves easily in
bisulphuret of carbon; or a mixture of 94
parts bisulphuret of carbon and 6 parts abso-
lute alcohol; also in caoutchoucine. (See No.
2249.) These dissolve the gum rapidly in the
cold, and leave it unaltered on evaporation ;
they have a disagreeable odor, but they leave
the India rubber in better condition than most
other solvents. Oil of turpentine, rendered
pyrogenous by absorbing it with bricks of
porous ware, and distilling it without water,
and treating the product in the same way, is
also used for this purpose. It is stated that
the solution on evaporation does not leave the
caoutchouc in a sticky state. Another method
is to agitate oil of turpentine repeatedly with
a mixture of equal weights of .sulphuric acid
and water; and afterwards expose it to the
sun for some time. Benzole, rectified mineral
or coal tar naphtha, and oil of turpentine re-
duce the gum slowly by long digestion and
trituration, with heat, forming a glutinous
jelly which dries slowly, and leaves the gum,
when dry, very much reduced in hardness and
elasticity. The fats and fixed oils combine
readily with India rubber by boiling, forming
a permanently glutinous paste. (See No.
2947.) India rubber is rendered more readily
soluble by first digesting it with a solution of
carbonate of soda, or water of ammonia.
2249. Caoutchoucine. Pure India rub-
ber, cut into small lumps, is thrown into a
cast-iron still, connected with a well-cooled
worm tub, and heat is applied until the ther-
mometer ranges about 600° Fahr., when noth-
ing is left in the still but dirt and charcoal.
The dark colored fetid oil which has distilled
over is next rectified with one third its weight
of water, once or oftener, until it is colorless;
it is then highly volatile and of .680 specific
gravity. The product is then shaken up with
nitro-muriatic acid, or chlorine, in the propor-
tion of J pint of acid to each gallon of the
liquid. This is the lightest fluid known, and
yet its vapor is the heaviest of gases. Mixed
with alcohol, it dissolves all the resins, espe-
cially copal and India rubber, at the common
temperature of the air ; and it speedily evapo-
rates, leaving them in a solid state. It mixes*
with the oils in all proportions ; and has been
used for making Tarnishes, and for liquefying
oil paints, instead of turpentine. It is very
volatile, arid must be kept in close vessels.
2250. Cement for Uniting Sheet Gutta-
Percha to Silk, &c. Gutta-percha, 40 pounds;
caoutchouc, 3 pounds ; shellac, 3 pounds ;
Canada balsam, or Venice turpentine, 14
pounds; liquid storax, 35 pounds; gum mastic,
4 pounds; oxide of lead, 1 pound. Mix as di-
rected in the next receipt.
2251. Cement for Uniting Sheet
Gutta-Percha to Leather. For uniting
sheet gutta-percha to leather, as soles of shoes,
etc. Gutta-percha, 50 pounds; Venice turpen-
tine, 40 pounds ; shellac, 4 pounds ; caout-
chouc, 1 pound ; liquid storax, 5 pounds. In
making the cement, ,the Venice turpentine
should be first heated ; then the gutta-percha
and the shellac should be added ; the order in
which the other materials are added is not
important. Care should be taken to incorpor-
ate them thoroughly, and the heat should be
regulated, so as not to burn the mixture.
2252. Transparent Cement. Dissolve
75 parts India rubber in 60 parts of chloro-
LUTE.
217
form, and add to the solution 15 parts of
gum mastich.
2253. How to Fasten Rubber to
Wood and Metal. As rubber plates and
rings are now a-days almost exclusively used
for making connections between steam and
other pipes and apparatus, much annoyance
is often experienced by the impossibility or
imperfectness of an air-tight connection. This
is obviated entirely by employing a cement
which fastens equally well to the rubber and
to the metal or wood. Such cement is pre-
pared by a solution of shellac in ammonia.
This is best made by soaking pulverized gum-
shellac in ten times its weight of strong am-
monia, when a slimy mass is obtained, which,
in three to four weeks, will become liquid
without the use of hot water. This softens
the rubber, and becomes, after volatilization
of the ammonia, hard and impermeable to
gases and fluids.
2254. Marine Cement for Uniting
Leather to Gutta-Percha. This will unite
leather to gutta-percha, and is impervious to
damp. It is made by dissolving by the aid of
heat, 1 part India rubber in naphtha, and,
when melted, adding 2 parts shellac, and
melting until mixed. Pour it while hot on
metal plates to cool. When required for use,
melt, and apply with a brush. This cement
does not adhere very well to vulcanised rub-
ber, and the joint is always weak.
2255. Cement to Unite India Rubber.
Take 16 parts gutta-percha, 4 parts India rub-
ber, 2 parts common caulkers' pitch, 1 part
linseed oil. The ingredients are melted to-
gether, and used hot. It will unite leather
or rubber that has not been vulcanized.
2256. Gutta-Percha Cement for Fas-
tening' Leather. Dissolve a quantity of
gutta-percha in chloroform in quantity to
make a fluid of honey-like consistence.
"When spread it will dry in a few moments.
Heat the surfaces at a fire or gas flame until
softened, and apply them together. Small
Eatches of leather can be thus cemented on
oots, etc., so as almost to defy detection,
and some shoemakers employ it with great
success for this purpose. It is waterproof,
and will answer almost anywhere unless ex-
posed to heat, which softens it.
2257. Caoutchouc Cement is made as
follows : — Gutta-percha, 3 parts ; virgin India
rubber (caoutchouc), 1 part (both cut small);
pyrogenous oil of turpentine, or bisulphuret
of carbon, 8 parts ; mix in a close vessel, and
dissolve by the heat of hot water. This
cement should be gently heated before being
used.
2258. Cement to Mend India Rubber
Shoes. A solution of caoutchouc, or virgin
India rubber, for repairing India rubber shoes,
is prepared in the following manner : Cut 2
pounds caoutchouc into thin, small slices;
put them in a vessel of tinned sheet-iron and
pour over 12 to 14 pounds of sulphide of car-
bon. For the promotion of solution, place
the vessel in another containing water pre-
viously heated up to about 86° Fahr. The
solution will take place promptly, but the
fluid will thicken very soon, and thus render
the application difficult, if not impossible.
In order to prevent this thickening, a solution
of caoutchouc and resin in spirits of turpen-
tine must be added to the solution of caout-
chouc in sulphide of carbon, and in such
quantity that the mixture obtains the consist-
ency of a thin paste. The solution of caout-
chouc and resin in spirit of turpentine should
be prepared as follows : Cut 1 pound of caout-
chouc into thin, small slices; heat in a suita-
ble vessel over a moderate coal fire, until the
caoutchouc becomes fluid ; then add £ pound
powdered resin, and melt both materials at a
moderate heat. "When these materials are
perfectly fluid, then gradually add 3 or 4
pounds spirit of turpentine in small portions,
and stir well. By the addition of the last
solution, the rapid thickening and hardening
of the compound will be prevented, and a
mixture obtained fully answering the purpose
of glueing together rubber surfaces, etc.
2259. To Fasten Chamois and Other
Leather to Iron and Steel. Dr. Carl W.
Heinischen, of Dresden, gives the following
receipt for the above purpose : Spread over
the metal a thin, hot solution of good glue ;
soak the leather with a warm solution of
gall-nuts before placing on the metal, and
leave to dry under an even pressure. If fas-
tened in this manner it is impossible to sepa-
rate the leather from the metal without tear-
ing it.
2260. Cement for Petroleum Lamps.
A cement particularly adapted for attaching
the brass work to petroleum lamps, is made
by Puscher, by boiling 3 parts resin with 1 of
caustic soda and 5 of water. The composition
is then mixed with half its weight of plaster
of Paris, and sets firmly in half to three-
quarters of an hour. It is said to be of great
adhesive power, not permeable to petroleum,
a low conductor of heat, and but superficially
attacked by hot water. Zinc white, white
lead, or precipitated chalk may be substituted
for plaster, but hardens more slowly.
2261. Cement for Attaching Metal
Letters to Plate Glass. Copal varnish, 16
parts; drying oil, 6 parts; turpentine, and
oil of turpentine, of each 3 parts ; liquefied
glue (made with the least possible quantity
of water), 5 parts. Melt together in a water-
bath, and add fresh slacked lime (perfectly
dry and in very fine powder), 10 parts.
2262. Cement for Metal and Glass.
Mix 2 ounces of a thick solution of glue with
1 ounce linseed oil varnish, or £ ounce Venice
turpentine ; boil them together, stirring them
until they mix as thoroughly as possible.
The pieces cemented should be tied together
for 2 or 3 days. This cement will firmly at-
tach any metallic substance to glass or porce-
lain. (See last receipt.)
[" TltS. A composition employed to se-
I * cure the joints of chemical vessels, or
as a covering to protect them from the vio-
lence of the fire. For the joints of vessels,
as stills, <fec., not exposed to a heat much
higher than 212° Fahr., linseed meal, either
alone or mixed with an equal weight of whit-
ing, and made into a stiff paste with water,
may be employed. Ground almond cake,
from which the oil has been pressed, may also
be used for the same purpose. For the joints
of small vessels, as tubes, &c., especially of
218
FLOUR PASTE.
glass or earthenware, small rings of India | few grains of corrosive sublimate, or a little
rubber slipped over and tied above and below ! carbolic acid, or bisulphite of lime (especially
the joint, are very convenient substitutes for the first and second), will prevent injects
lutes, and have the advantage of lasting a f-
long time, and bearing uninjured the heat at
which oil of vitriol boils.
2264. Lute for Stills. A very useful
lute is formed by beating the white of an egg
thoroughly with an equal quantity of water,
and mixing it with some slacked lime in the
state of fine powder, so as to form a thin paste.
This must be spread immediately on strips of
muslin, and applied to the cracks or joints
intended to be luted. It soon hardens, ad-
heres strongly, and will bear a heat approach-
ing to redness without injury. A leak in this
lute is readily stopped by the application of a
fresh portion. Solution of glue, or any liquid
albuminous matter, may be used in place of
the white of eggs.
2265. Lemery's
Lute for Stills or
Retorts. Lemery used the following lute
for stopping retorts, etc. : Pine flour and fine
lime, of each 1 ounce; potter's earth, i ounce;
make a moist paste of these with white of
egg, well beaten up with a little water ; this
will be found to stop exceedingly close.
2266. Boyle's Lute for Retorts, &c.
Boyle recommends, on experience, the follow-
ing for the same purpose: Some good fine
quicklime and scrapings of cheese, pounded
in a mortar, with as much water as will bring
the mixture to soft paste ; then spread on a
piece of linen rag, and apply it as occasion
Useful Lute. A useful lute is
requires.
2267.
made by spreading a solution of glue on strips
of cloth, and coating them, after they are ap-
plied, with drying oil.
2268. Lute for Joining Crucibles.
For joining crucibles to be exposed to a
strong heat, a mixture of fine clay and ground
bricks, mixed up with water, or preferably
with a solution of borax, answers well for
most purposes.
2269. Fire Lute. As a coating for ves-
sels, to preserve them from injury from ex-
posure to the fire, nothing is better than a
mixture of ordinary pipe-clay and horse dung,
made into a paste with water. This compo-
sition is used by the pipe-makers, and will
stand unharmed the extreme heat of their
kiln for 24 hours. It is applied by spreading
it on paper.
2270. Lute to Protect Glass Vessels.
The following composition will enable glass
vessels to sustain an incredible degree of heat :
Take fragments of porcelain, pulverize, and
sift them well, and add an equal quantity of
fine clay, previously softened with as much of
a saturated solution of muriate of soda as is
requisite to give the whole a proper consist-
ence. Apply a thin and uniform coat of this
composition to the glass vessels, and allow it
to dry slowly before they are put into the fire.
F
Paste. The best paste for
general purposes is simply wheat flour
beaten into cold water to perfect smoothness,
and the whole just brought to a boil, while
being constantly stirred to prevent burning.
The addition of a few drops of creosote, or a
from attacking it, and preserve it (in covered
vessels) for years. Should it get too hard it
may be softened with water.
2272. Paper Hangers' Paste. Beat
up 4 pounds of good white wheat flour in cold
water — enough to form a stiff batter (sifting
the flour first) ; beat it well, to take out all
lumps ; then add enough cold water to make
it the consistence of pudding batter; add
about 2 ounces of well pounded alum. Be
sure and have plenty of boiling water ready ;
take it quite boiling from the fire, and pour
gently and quickly over the batter, stirring
rapidly at the same time ; and when it is ob-
served to swell and lose the white color of
the flour, it is cooked and ready. This will
make about £ of a pail of solid paste ; do not
use it while hot ; allow it to cool and it will
go further; about a pint of cold water may be
put over the top of it, to prevent it skinning;
before using, thin this with cold water to
spread easily and quickly under the brush.
This paste will keep a long while without fer-
menting, when it is useless ; mould on the top
does not hurt it ; remove it, the remainder is
good. (See No. 2273.)
2273. Strongly Adhering Paste.
Where great adhesiveness is required, such as
papering over varnished paper or painted
walls, it will be necessary to add \ an ounce
of finely powdered resin to each •£ gallon of
the batter in the last receipt. As the resin
does not dissolve so readily, set the pan con-
taining the ingredients over a moderate fire,
constantly stirring until it boils and thickens,
and a short time after put out to cool. Re-
duce the paste with thin gum-arabic water.
In hanging "flock" papers with crimson in
them, omit the alum, as it will injure the
color.
2274. To Make a Fine Paste. A
solution of 2i ounces gum-arabic in 2 quarts
warm water, is thickened to a paste with
wheat flour; to this is added a solution of
alum and sugar of lead, H ounces each in wa-
ter ; the mixture is heated and stirred about
to boil, and is then cooled. It may be
thinned, if necessary, with a gum solution.
2275. To Make Paste for Laying
Cloth, or Leather on Table Tops. To 1
pint best wheaten flour add resin, very finely
powdered, about 2 large spoonfuls ; of alum,
1 spoonful, in powder ; mix them all well to-
gether, put them into a pan, and add by de-
grees soft or rain water, carefully stirring it
till it is of the consistence of thinuish cream ;
put it into a saucepan over a clear fire, keep-
ing it constantly stirred, that it may not get
lumpy. "When it is of a stiff" consistence, so
that the spoon will stand upright in it, it is
done enough. Be careful to stir it well from
the bottom, for it will bum if not well at-
tended to. Empty it out into a pan and
cover it over till cold, to prevent a skin form-
ing on the top, which would make it lumpy.
This paste is very superior for the purpose,
and adhesive.
2276. To Paste Leather or Cloth
on Table Tops. To use paste in the last
receipt, for cloth or baize, spread the paste
evenly and smoothly on the top of the table,
GLUE.
219
and lay your cloth on it, pressing and smooth-
ing it with a flat piece of wood ; let it remain
till dry ; then trim the edges close to the
cross-banding. If you cut it close at first,
it will, in drying, shrink and look bad where
it meets the banding all around. If" used for
leather, the leather must be first previously
dampened, and then the paste spread over it ;
next lay it on the table, and nib it smooth
and level with a linen cloth, and cut the edges
close to the banding with a short knife.
Some lay their table-covers with glue instead
of paste, and for cloth perhaps it is the best
method ; but for leather it is not proper, as
glue is apt to run through. In using it for
cloth, great care must be taken that the glue is
not too thin, and that the cloth be well rubbed
down with a thick piece of wood made hot at
the fire, for the glue soon chills. You may,
by this method, cut off the edges close to the
border at once.
Gllie. The hotter the glue, the more
force it will exert in keeping the two
parts glued together; therefore, in all large
and long joints the glue should be applied
immediately after boiling. Glue loses much
of its strength by frequent re-melting ; that
glue, therefore, which is newly made, is much
preferable to that which has been re-boiled.
In melting ordinary glue in the double vessel
containing water, it is an excellent method to
add salt to the water in the outer vessel. It
will not boil then, until heated considerably
above the ordinary boiling point ; the conse-
quence is, the heat is retained, instead of
passing off by evaporation, and when the wa-
ter boils, the glue will be found to be thor-
ougly and evenly melted.
2278. To Prevent Glue from Crack-
ing. Glue is often found to crack in very dry
localities, particularly when the objects glued
together are not in close contact, but have a
thin layer of glue between them ; in which
case they sometimes fall apart. Yery thin
layers of glue are not only exceedingly hard,
but also more or less brittle when extremely
dry ; and, therefore,, to prevent this dry and
consequent brittle condition, the addition of a
very small quantity of glycerine will accom-
plish the desired end. The quantity of glycer-
ine must be modified according to circum-
stances.
2279. To Make a Very Strong Glue.
An ounce of the best isinglass may be dis-
solved, by the application of a moderate heat,
in a pint of water. Take this solution and
strain it through a piece of cloth, and add to
it a proportionate quantity of the best glue,
which has been previously soaked in water
for about 24 hours, and a gill of vinegar.
After the whole of the materials have been
brought into a solution, let it once boil up,
and strain off the impurities. This glue is
well adapted for any work which requires par-
ticular strength, and where the joints them-
selves do not contribute towards the combi-
nation of the work ; or in small fillets and
mouldings, and carved patterns that are to be
held on the surface by the glue.
2280. A Strong Glue that will Re-
sist Moisture. Dissolve gum-saudarac and
mastich, of. each i ounce, in J pint spirits of
wine, to which add i ounce clear turpentine ;
now take strong glue, or that in which isinglass
has been dissolved; then, putting the gums
into a double glue-pot, add by degrees the glue,
constantly stirring it over the fire till the
whole is well incorporated ; strain it through a
cloth, and it is ready for use. It^ may now
be returned to the glue-pot, and | ounce very
finely-powdered glass added ; use it quite hot.
2281. To Make Tungstic Glue. Tungs-
tic glue is prepared by mixing a thick solution
of glue with tungstate of soda, and hydro-
chloric acid, by means of which a compound
of tungstic acid and glue is precipitated,
which, at a temperature of 86° to 104° Pahr.,
is sufficiently elastic to admit of being drawn
out into very • thin sheets. On cooling, this
mass becomes solid and brittle, and on being
heated is again soft and plastic. This new
compound, it is said, can be used for all the
purposes to which hard rubber is adapted.
2282. To Keep Glue from Souring.
If a little muriatic acid be put into glue
when it is dissolved, ready for use, it will re-
tain the glue in the same condition for a long
time. It will neither dry up nor ferment.
Liquid glue is made in this way, and sold in
bottles. The use of a small portion of sugar
of lead will also prevent fermentation.
2283. To Prepare Glue for Ready TJse.
To any quantity of glue use common whiskey
instead of water. Put both together in a bot-
tle, cork it tight, and set it for 3 or 4 days,
when it will be fit for use without the applica-
tion of heat. Glue thus prepared will keep
for years, and is at all times fit for use, except
in very cold weather, when it should be set in
warm water before using. To obviate the dif-
ficulty of the stopper getting tight by the glue
drying in the mouth of the vessel, use a tin
vessel with the cover fitting tight on the out-
side, to prevent the escape of the spirit by
evaporation. A strong solution of isinglass
made in the same manner is an excellent ce-
ment for leather.
2284. Liquid Glue. The preparation
of liquid glue is based upon the property of
the concentrated acid of vinegar and diluted
nitric acid to dissolve the gelatine without
destroying its cohesive qualities. Dumouiin
has given the following receipt :
2285. Dumoulin's Liquid and Unal-
terable Glue. Take a wide-mouthed bottle,
and dissolve in it 8 ounces best glue in k pint
water, by setting it in a vessel of water, and
heating until dissolved. Then add slowly 2£
ounces strong aqua fortis (nitric acid) 36°
Baume, stirring all the while. Effervescence
takes place under generation of nitrous gas.
"When all the acid has been added, the liquid
is allowed to cool. Keep it well corked, and
it will be ready for use at any moment. This
preparation does not gelatinize, nor undergo
putrefaction or fermentation. It is applicable
for many domestic uses, such as mending
china, repairing cabinet work, <fcc.
2286. Russian Liquid Glue. This is
prepared by softening 100 parts best Kussian
glue in 100 parts warm water, and then add-
ing slowly from 5& to 6 parts aquafortis, and
finally 6 parts powdered sulphate of lead.
The latter is used in order to impart to it a
white color.
220
GLUE.
2287. Pale Liquid Glue. Dissolve in a
glass vessel 100 parts pale "steam glue" in
double its weight of water, and add 12 parts
aqua fortis as directed in Dumoulin's receipt.
(See No. 2285.)
2288. Dark Liquid Glue. Put 100
parts dark " steam glue " and 140 parts water
in a wide-mouthed glass bottle, and dissolve
the glue in the water, then add slowly 16 parts
aqua fortis, stirring all the while. "When all
the acid is added, the liquid is allowed to cool.
Cork well. This liquid glue exhibits a great-
er cohesive force than that prepared after Du-
moulin's receipt. (See No. 2285.) However,
still better kinds of liquid glue or mucilage
are obtained by dissolving gelatine or dextrine
in acetic acid and alcohol.
2289. Good Liquid Glue. Fill a glass
jar with broken-up glue of best quality, then
fill it with acetic acid. Keep it in hot water
for a few hours, until the glue is all melted,
and you will have an excellent glue always
ready.
2290. Glue which Stands Moisture
Without Softening. Dissolve, in about 8
fluid ounces of strong methylated spirit, % an
ounce each of sandaracand mastich; next, add
i an ounce of turpentine. This solution is
then added to a hot, thick solution of glue to
which isinglass has been added, and is next
filtered, while hot, through cloth or a good
sieve. (See No. 2280.)
2291. Marine or Waterproof Glue.
Take of gum shellac 3 parts, caoutchouc
(India-rubber), 1 part, by weight. Dissolve
the caoutchouc and shellac in separate vessels,
in ether free from alcohol (see No. 2248), ap-
plying a gentle heat. When thoroughly dis-
solved, mix the two solutions, and keep in a
bottle tightly stoppered. This glue resists the
action ot water, both hot and cold, and most
of the acids and alkalies. Pieces of wood,
leather or other substances, joined together
by it, will part at any other point than at the
joint thus made. If the glue be thinned by
the admixture of ether, and applied as a var-
nish to leather, along the seams where it is
sewed together, it renders the joint or seam
water-tight, and almost impossible to separate.
2292. Isinglass Glue. Dissolve isin-
glass in water and strain through coarse linen,
and then add a little spirits of wine. Evapo-
rate it to such a consistency that when cold it
will be dry and hard. This will hold stronger
than common glue, and is much preferred.
2293. India-Rubber Glue for Photo-
graphers and Bookbinders. A. most val-
uable glue for photographers, and extensively
used by first-class bookbinders, is made from
bottle India rubber. This must be dissolved
in highly rectified spirits of turpentine ; the
highly rectified spirit extracts every particle of
grease, which is of the greatest consequence.
2294. Braconnot's Glue of Caseine.
Dissolve caseine in a strong solution of bicar-
bonate of soda.
2295. Wagner's Glue of Caseine.
Dissolve caseine in a cold saturated solution
of borax. Superior to gum, and may take
the place of glue in many cases. May be
used for the backs of adhesive tickets.
2296. To Glue a Joint. In general,
nothing more is necessary to glue a joint, after
the joint is made perfectly straight, than to
glue both edges while the glue is quite hot,
and rub them lengthwise until it has nearly
set. When the wood is spongy, or sucks up
the glue, another method must be adopted —
one which strengthens the joint, while it does
away with the necessity of using the glue too
thick, which should always be avoided; for
the less glue there is in contact with the joints,
provided they touch, the better; and when
the glue is thick, it chills quickly, and cannot
be well rubbed out from between the joints.
The method to which we refer is, to rub the
joints on the edge with a piece of soft chalk,
and, wiping it so as to take off any lumps,
glue it in the usual manner ; and it will be
found, when the wood is porous, to hold much
faster than if used without chalking.
2297. To Glue on Ivory Veneers. To
glue on ivory veneers, take 2 parts pulverized
gum-arabic and 1 part calomel, and add wa-
ter sufficient to make a paste.
2298. Excellent Liquid Glue. Take
of best white glue, 16 ounces ; white lead,
dry, 4 ounces ; rain water, 2 pints ; alcohol, 4
ounces. With constant stirring dissolve the
glue and lead in the water by means of a wa-
ter-bath. Add the alcohol and continue the
heat for a few minutes. Lastly pour into
bottles while it is still hot. This is said to be
superior to " Spaulding's liquid glue."
2299. Glycerine Paste for Office Use.
Glycerine paste for office use may be prepared
by dissolving 1 ounce gum-arabic and 2
drachms of glycerine in 3 ounces boiling
water.
2300. Government Postage Stamp
Mucilage. The substance used lor gumming
stamps is made as follows. Gum dextrine, 2
parts ; acetic acid, 1 part ; water, 5 parts.
Dissolve in a water-bath, and add alcohol, 1
part.
2301. Mucilage for Labels. Macerate
5 parts good glue in 18 to 20 parts water for a
day, and to the liquid add 9 parts rock candy
and 3 parts gum-arabic. The mixture can be
brushed upon paper while lukewarm; it keeps
well, does not stick together, and, when moist-
ened, adheres firmly to bottles.
2302. Mucilage for Soda or Seltzer
Water Bottles. For the labels of soda or
seltzer water bottles it is well to prepare a
paste of good rye flour and glue to which lin-
seed oil varnish and turpentine have been
added in the proportion of | an ounce of each
to the pound. Labels prepared in the latter
way do not fall off in damp cellars.
2303. Very Strong Liquid Glue. To
make this, put 3 parts glue in 8 parts cold wa-
ter, and let them stand for several hours to
soften the glue ; then add 3 part muriatic acid
and J part sulphate of zinc, and heat the mix-
ture to 185° Fahr., for 10 or 12 hours. The
mixture remains liquid after cooling, and is
said to be very useful for sticking wood, crock-
ery, and glass together.
2304. Good Mucilage. For household
purposes this may be made by mixing 3 ounces
gum-arabic, 3 ounces distilled vinegar, with 1
ounce white sugar. Instead of the distilled
vinegar, 1 part acetic acid and 5 parts water
may be substituted.
2305. To Prevent Mould in Mucilage.
Solutions of gum-arabic are very liable to be-
come mouldy; and while the introduction of
SEALING-WAX.
221
creosote, corrosive sublimate, etc., frequently
used to remedy this evil, is objectionable on
account of the danger of poisoning, according
to the "Industrie Blatter, "sulphate of quinine
is a complete protection against mould, a very
small quantity of it being sufficient to prevent
gum mucilage from spoiling. It is quite pos-
sible that writing ink might be protected, by
the same application, from a like difficulty.
The use of ammonia for the same purpose is
also recommended.
2306. Elastic Glue which does not
spoil is obtained as follows : Good common
glue is dissolved in water, on the water-bath,
and the water evaporated down to a mass of
thick consistence, to which a quantity of gly-
cerine, equal in weight with the glue, is added,
after which the heating is continued until all
the water has been driven off, when the mass
is poured out into moulds, or on a marble slab.
This mixture answers for stamps, printers'
rolls, galvano-plastic copies, etc.
2307. Sweet Mouth Glue. Sweet
glue, for ready use by moistening with the
tongue, is made in the same way as elastic
glue, substituting, however, the same quantity
of powdered sugar for the glycerine.
2308. Portable Glue or Bank-Note
Cement. Boil 1 pound best glue, strain it
very clear ; boil also 4 ounces isinglass ; put
it into a double glue-pot, with i pound fine
brown sugar, and boil it pretty thick; then
pour it into plates or moulds. When cold,
you may cut and dry them for the pocket.
This glue is very useful to draughtsmen,
architects, <fcc., as it immediately dilutes in
warm water, and fastens the paper without the
process of damping; or, it may be used by soft-
ening it in the mouth, and applying it to the
paper.
2309. To Make Mucilage that will
Adhere to Glass or Polished Surfaces.
"We all know the difficulty of causing labels
and similar objects to stick to glass or highly
varnished articles exposed to the continued
drying action of a very warm room. The gum
or paste dries up and cracks, causing the label
to fall off. One or two drops of glycerine in
a small bottle of mucilage will entirely pre-
vent this result. Too much glycerine must
not be added, or the cement will fail to harden
at all.
2310. Mucilage of Tragacanth.
Triturate 1 drachm powdered gum tragacanth
in a mortar with 6 drachms glycerine ; add by
degrees, with constant trituration, 10 fluid
ounces water. This will produce a mucilage
at once, without the objectionable air-bubbles
incidental to agitation.
2311. Mucilage of Tragacanth.
Macerate 1 ounce tragacanth in 1 pint boiling
water for 24 hours. Then triturate until
smooth and uniform, and press through linen.
If pretty firm this paste keeps well without the
addition of an antiseptic, although a little
acetic acid or 'creosote will more effectually
prevent fermentation.
O ealing- Wax.
kj receipts for fine wa
All the following
receipts~'for fine wax produce superfine
by employing the best qualities of the ingredi-
ents; and extra superfine or scented by adding
1 per cent, of balsam of Peru or liquid storax
to the ingredients when considerably cooled.
The fancy kinds are commonly scented with a
little essence of musk or ambergris, or any of
the more fragrant essential oils. The addition
of a little camphor, or spirit of wine, makes
sealing-wax burn easier. Sealing-wax con-
taining resin, or too much turpentine, runs
into thin drops at the flame of the candle.
2313. Fine Red Sealing-Wax. Melt
cautiously 4 ounces very pale shellac in a
bright copper pan over a clear charcoal fire, at
the lowest degree of heat that will be neces-
sary to melt it; when melted, stir in 1J ounces
Yenice turpentine (previously warmed), fol-
lowed by 3 ounces vermilion. The heat must
be neither too much nor too little, but just
sufficient to allow a most thorough mixing of
the different ingredients. "When this is ac-
complished, the fluid mass is discharged into
metallic moulds and left to cool. For the
purpose of melting the shellac more easily,
some add to the same a little alcohol. Or : 3
pounds shellac, 1J pounds Venice turpentine,
and 2 pounds finest cinnabar, mixed in the
same manner as the preceding.
2314. To Produce a Polish on Seal-
ing-Wax. After the above process the
sticks of sealing-wax have no polish. To
produce this they have to be heated again
on the surface. For this purpose they are
put in other moulds, made of polished steel,
which are engraved with the desired orna-
ments. These moulds are heated only just
sufficient to melt the sealing-wax on the
surface, by which operation the sticks obtain
a beautiful glossy appearance. The heat-
ing of the moulds to stamp the mark of the
manufacturer can be readily performed with a
spirit lamp.
2315. Common Bed Sealing-Wax.
Melt together 4 pounds resin and 2 pounds
shellac; mix in, as in the last receipt, Ik
pounds each of Venice turpentine and red lead.
2316. Fine Black Sealing-Wax.
Take 60 parts shellac, 30 parts finely-powdered
ivory black, and 20 parts Venice turpentine ;
mixed as in No. 2313.
2317. Common Black Sealing- Wax.
Mix together (see No. 2313) 6 pounds resin, 2
pounds each shellac and Venice turpentine,
and sufficient lampblack to color.
2318. Gold Colored Sealing-Wax.
This is made by stirring gold colored mica
spangles into the melted resins just before they
begin to cool. Or : By taking finely pulver-
ized gold-leaf (see No. 25) or metal powder,
and stirring them into the sealing-wax in-
stead of the colors. A common kind is made
as follows : 6 parts shellac, 2 white resin, 1
silver leaves.
2319. Marbled Sealing-Wax is made
by mixing different kinds of sealing-wax to-
gether just as they begin to solidify.
2320. Yellow Sealing-Wax. Mix to-
gether 4 ounces pale shellac, 1J ounces resin,
2 ounces Venice turpentine, and f ounce
King's yellow (sulphuret of arsenic, or
orpiment).
2321. Light Brown Sealing- Wax.
Take 7 i ounces shellac and 4 ounces Venice
turpentine; and color with 1 ounce brown
ochre and | ounce cinnabar (red stilphuret of
mercury or vermilion).
222
BOILER INCRUSTATIONS.
2322. Blue Sealing-Wax. Take 16
parts mastic, 4 turpentine, 8 mountain-blue,
3 burned selenite. The mountain-blue turns
green by the heat of melting the mixture ;
therefore it is better to use fine indigo, or very
fine Prussian blue ; but in that case the shel-
lac must be particularly light-colored.
2323. Dark Blue Sealing-Wax. Mix
7 ounces fine shellac, 3 ounces Yenice turpen-
tine, 1 ounce resin, and 1 ounce mineral blue.
2324. Green Sealing-Wax. Mix 4
ounces shellac, 2 ounces Venice turpentine, 1J
ounces resin, i ounce King's yellow (see No.
2320), and J ounce mineral blue. Or: 24
parts shellac. 12 mastic, 4 turpentine, 6 verdi-
gris ; colored with a mixture of yellow and
indigo.
2325. To Make Perfumed Sealing-
Wax. Any fine sealing-wax may be per-
fumed by mixing 1 per cent, of balsam of
Peru, or liquid storax, to the ingredients when
considerably cooled. A little essence of musk
or ambergris will serve the same purpose.
The addition of a little camphor or spirit of
wine makes sealing-wax melt easier.
2326. To Improve the Appearance
of Common Sealing-Wax. To make com-
mon sealing-wax appear to better advantage,
the sticks, being still soft, are dipped in the
powder of a better quality, and then super-
ficially melted, so as to produce a thin coating.
2327. Soft Sealing-Wax for Diplo-
mas. Take 16 parts yellow wax, 3 turpen-
tine, 1 olive oil ; after it is melted, the cinna-
bar, or other coloring matter, is stirred in the
compound.
2328. To Take Proof-Impressions of
Seals and Stamps. For this purpose the
very best sealing-wax is melted as usual by a
flame, and carefully worked on the surface to
which it is applied, until perfectly even ; the
stamp is then firmly and evenly pressed into
it. The flame of a spirit lamp is preferable,
having no tendency to blacken the wax. A
beautiful dead appearance is given to the im-
pression by dusting the stamp, before using
it, with a finely-powdered pigment of the
same color as the wax ; thus, for vermilion
sealing-wax, powdered vermilion, &c.
Boiler Incrustations, in
a lengthy article on the subject, which
appeared in the " Scientific American," Pro-
fessor Chandler gives the substances referred
to in the four following receipts, as having
been recommended by practical men, for the
purpose of preventing incrustations in boilers:
2330. Wood Chips, Bark, &c., as a
Preventive of Incrustation. Catechu,
nut-galls, oak bark, shavings and sawdust, tan
bark, tormentilla root, mahogany, logwood,
£tc. These substances all contain more or less
tannic acid, associated with soluble extractive
and coloring matters. "When they are intro-
duced into the boiler, the soluble constituents
&re dissolved by the water, and basic tannate
of lime is formed, which separates as a loose
deposit, and does not adhere to the sides of
the boiler. It is preferable to use the aqueous
extract, as sawdust, chips, etc., are liable to
find their way into the cocks and tubes, al-
though they act mechanically, receiving in-
crustations which would otherwise fasten
themselves on the sides of the boiler. In
selecting one of these substances, the princi-
pal object is to secure the largest quantity of
tannic acid and soluble extractive matter for
the lowest price. Some of these substances
are said to be very effective, £ pound of
catechu being sufficient for 100 cubic feet
of water. From 4 to 6 pounds of oak chips
have been recommended per horse power, or i
bushel mahogany chips for every 10 horse
power.
2331. Mucilaginous Substances as
Preventives. Potatoes, starch, bran, linseed
meal, gum, dextrine, Irish moss, slippery elm,
marshmallow root, glue, etc. These substances
form, sooner or later, a slimy liquid in the
boiler, which prevents more or less completely
the settling and hardening of the deposits.
Some of them may even hold the lime and
magnesia in solution. Potatoes have been
used for many years, wherever steam engines
are employed; half a peck or a peck are
thrown into the boiler weekly. Linseed meal
mixed with chopped straw was employed on
a German railway, a peck at a time being in-
troduced into each boiler. Some writers
object to these organic substances, on the
ground that they are liable to cause frothing.
2332. Saccharine Matter as Prevent-
ives. Sugar, molasses, corn or potato
syrup. Both cane and grape sugar form
soluble compounds with lime salts, and con-
sequently prevent their separation as incrust-
ations. One engineer found that 10 pounds
of brown sugar protected his boiler lor two
months ; another, that 6 pounds of corn starch
syrup had a similar effect. Another used
molasses with success, introducing a gallon at
a time.
2333. Fatty Substances as Prevent-
ives. One writer used whale oil to prevent
incrustations, 2 or 3 gallons at a time. Others
smear the inside of the boiler with various
mixtures of a fatty character. Stearine,
mixed with wood ashes, charcoal and tar, has
been recommended, or tallow, with soap and
charcoal diluted with oil or tar, or tallow and
graphite. This plan could not well be applied
to a locomotive boiler with its numerous
tubes, even though it should prove effective
in cylinder boilers.
2334. Anti-Incrustation Powders,
&c., for Boilers. Regarding incrustation
powders in use, Professor Chandler makes
the following suggestions and recommenda-
tions: Incrustation powders, bearing gener-
ally the names of their proprietors, are ex-
tensively advertised and sold ; they are either
worthless or are sold at such extravagant
prices as to make their use extremely ill-advis-
ed. I have examined several of them. Those
which are at all valuable consist of one or
more of the substances already mentioned,
and the only novel result of their use is the
payment of many times the commercial value
for a fair article. One which is put up in tin
boxes, containing about one pound, at $2.50
each, contains carbonate of lime, 95.35 parts ;
carbonate of magnesia, 0.67 parts ; and oxide
of iron, 4.15 parts. It differs little from some
of the incrustations in composition, and is of
no value whatever. Another contains log-
wood, 75.00 parts ; chloride of ammonia,
GLASS.
223
15.00 parts ; chloride of barium, 10.00 parts.
This is a very good article, but at the price
for which it is sold it cannot be used in quanti
ties sufficient to produce much effect. In
fact, chloride of barium is too expensive to b
used in this country at all.
2335. To Guard Against Incrusta-
tion in Boilers. Professor Chandler recom
mends the following precautions : The use o
the purest waters that can be obtained, rain
water wherever possible. Frequent use of the
blow-off cock. That the boilers never be
emptied while there is fire enough to harden
the deposit. Frequent washing out. Exper
iments on the efficacy of zinc, lime-water
carbonate of soda, carbonate of baryta, chlor
ide of ammonium, some substance containing
tannic acid, linseed meal, and the electro
magnetic inductor.
2336. Management of the Water to
Prevent Boiler Incrustation. Blowing
off. The frequent blowing off of -small quan-
tities of water, say a few gallons at a time, is
undoubtedly one of the most effective anc
simple methods for removing sediments and
preventing their hardening on the sides of the
boiler. The water entering the boiler should
be directed in such a way as to sweep the
loose particles toward the blow-off cocks, thai
when these are open they may be carried oul
with the water. This bio wing off should take
place at least two or three times daily, per-
haps much oftener.
2337. Incrustation in Boilers. The on-
ly effectual remedy is to blow out frequently.
Blow out once a week at least ten per cent, ol
the water in the boilers. It should be done
while the water is at rest, that is, before start-
ing in the feed water. A practical engineer
says : Our boilers were badly incrusted. We
loosened the scale with chisels and kerosene
oil, and after running them a year as above,
they came out as clean and bright as could be.
2338. Scale in Boilers. A practical
engineer recommends the following : Get some
cow or ox feet, just as they are cut off in the
slaughter house, put them in a wire net fine
enough to detain the small bones from getting
from the boiler into the blow-off pipe. Use 5
of the feet to a 6-horse power boiler, and no
further trouble with scale in the boilers will
be experienced. They must be replaced
every two or three months, according to the
quality of the water. They do not make the
water foam.
GlciSS. This is a compound of silica (sil-
icic acid) with the oxide of an alkaline
metal, obtained by fusion. In its usual form it
is brittle, transparent, non-crystalline, insolu-
ble, and fusible; but it sometimes exhibits oth-
er qualities. The principle of its production is
very simple, although skill and experience are
necessary to insure excellence. Silica (com-
monly under the form of sand) is heated with
carbonate of potassa or soda and slaked lime
or oxide of lead, until the mixture fuses and
combination takes place. When the mass be-
comes perfectly limpid and free from air bub-
bles, it is allowed to cool until it assumes the
peculiar tenacious condition for working.
1 The fusion is performed in large crucibles of
refractory fire-clay ; in making lead glass, the
crucible is covered with a dome, and an open-
ing left in the side, through which the mate-
rials are put in and the melted glass with-
drawn. Carbonates and other crystalline
matter used in glass making, require to be dry.
(See No. 2065.) Certain mineral oxides give
glass a variety of color, sometimes of a very
undesirable kind. Should the paste contain
traces of iron, instead of producing white
glass there will be only the common bottle-
glass ; and if the iron be in larger proportions,
the dark green shade will be the result. On
the contrary, add a certain quantity of oxide
of lead to a pure base of potash, and the
beautiful crystal glass is formed; a still larger
dose, and the diamond paste, with its wonder-
fully dispersive power, will deceive many an
unpracticed eye.
2340. Peligot's Bohemian Tube Glass.
The component parts of this glass are 7LJ-
parts quartz, 20 parts dry (see No. 2065) car-
bonate of potassa (or its equivalent), 8-J- parts
quicklime, and a little manganese. It is very
intractable and difficult to melt, but the addi-
tion of a very small quantity of borax, boracic
acid, or arsenious acid, causes it to flow into
a glass of great brilliancy and hardness, and
capable of being wrought at the highest heat
of the ordinary furnace.
2341. Bottle Glass. Dry Glauber salts,
11 pounds ; soaper salts, 12 pounds ; it bushel
of waste soap ashes; sand, 56 pounds; glass
skimmings, 22 pounds; green broken glass, 1
cwt.; basalt, .25 pounds. This mixture af-
fords a dark green glass. Or : Yellow or
white sand, 100 parts ; kelp, 30 to 40 parts ;
lixiviated wood ashes, from 160 to 170 parts ;
fresh wood ashes, 30 to 40 parts ; potter's
clay, 80 to 100 parts ; cullet, or broken glass,
100 parts. If basalt be used, the proportion
of kelp may be diminished.
2342. Broad, or Green "Window Glass.
Dry Glauber salts, 11 pounds ; soaper salts,
10 pounds; i bushel of lixiviated soap waste;
50 pounds of sand; 22 pounds of glass-pot
skimmings ; 1 cwt. of broken green glass.
2343. Crown, or White Window
Glass. Pure sand, 100 parts ; dry sulphate
of soda, 50 parts ; dry quicklime, in powder,
17 to 20 parts ; charcoal, 4 parts. The pro-
duct is white and good.
2344. Bohemian Crown Glass. Pure
silicious sand, 63 parts; potash, 22 parts;
iime, 12 parts ; oxide of manganese, 1 part.
2345. Nearly White Table Glass.
Take 20 pounds potashes, 11 pounds dry
Glauber salts, 16 pounds soaper salt, 55 pounds
sand, and 140 pounds cullet or broken glass
of the same kind. Or : 100 parts sand, 235
celp, 60 wood ashes, 1£ manganese, 100 bro-
£en glass.
2346. White Table Glass. Fuse to-
gether 40 pounds potashes, 11 chalk, 76 sand,
E part manganese, 95 white cullet. Or : 50
parts purified potashes, 100 sand, 20 chalk,
and 2 saltpetre.
2347. Crystal Glass. Take 60 parts pu-
rified potashes, 120 sand, 24 chalk, 2 saltpetre,
2 arsenious acid, ~fa part manganese. Or :
'urified pearlashes, 70 parts; 120 white sand;
10 saltpetre; i part arsenious acid; and J
part manganese. Or : 67 parts sand, 23 puri
224:
GLASS.
part
fied pearlashes, 10 sifted slacked lime,
manganese, 5 to 8 red lead.
2348. Clear Crystal Glass. White
sand, 15 parts ; red lead, 10 parts ; refined
ashes, 4 parts ; nitre, 1 part ; arsenious acid
and manganese, of each a very little.
2349. Vienna Plate Glass. Sand, 100
parts ; calcined sulphate of soda, 50 parts ;
lime, 20 parts; charcoal, 2f parts.
2350. Plate Glass. Pure sand, 40
parts ; dry carbonate of soda, 26i parts ;
lime, 4 parts; nitre, li parts; broken plate
glass, 25 parts.
2351. French Plate Glass. White
quartz sand and cullet (old glass), of each
300 parts ; dry carbonate of soda, 100 parts ;
slacked lime, 43 parts. Or: Pure sand, 72
parts ; refined soda, 45 parts ; quicklime, 48
parts ; nitre, 2-J- parts ; cullet (old glass), 45
parts.
2352. Table of Proportions of the Materials Used for Making Lead Glass,
the Numbers Increasing with the Quality.
Silica.
Crystal.
Common Flint.
Optical.
Paste to imitate
Diamonds, &c.
1.
ft.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
100
10
35
13
100
30
33
10
100
42
33
15
100
45
35
100
48
16
8
100
66
26
7
100
70
40
3
100
80 to 85
35 to 40
2 to 3
100
100
23
.7
100
100
23
1.3
1.8
100
133
13
100
154
56
6.3
100
160
20
20
Oxide of Lead
Potash, purified
Saltpetre .. .......
Carbonate of Lime
Borax *
It has been suggested that the oxide, or
other salt of thallium, substituted for the lead,
makes a paste of greater brilliancy and dis-
persive powers for optical purposes, and for
imitation gems.
2353. Ingredients for Coloring Paste
to Imitate Gems. The following propor-
tions must be added to 1000 parts of paste
No. 12 in the above table of lead glass.
2354. For Topaz. Antimony glass, 40
parts; and 1 part gold purple (purple of cassius.
see Nos. 2720 to 2723.)
2355. For Ruby. A ruby color is given
by 25 parts oxide of manganese.
2356. For Amethyst. Oxide of manga-
nese, 8 parts ; £ part gold purple (see Nos. 2720
to 2723), and 5 parts oxide of cobalt.
2357. For Garnet. Antimony glass,
500 parts ; 4 parts oxide of manganese, and 4
parts gold purple. (See Nos. 2720 to 2723.)
2358. For Sapphire. Take 15 parts
oxide of cobalt.
2359. For Aqua Marine. Take 7 parts
antimony glass, f part oxide of cobalt.
2360. For Emerald. Take 8 parts ox-
ide of copper, £ part oxide of chrome.
2361. To Stain or Color Glass. Dif-
ferent colors are given to glass by the addition
of metallic oxides. Thus, for amethyst, oxide
of manganese is used ; for 'blue, oxide of co-
balt; for brown, oxide of iron; for green,
black oxide of copper; for purple, oxide of
gold ; for ruby red, suboxide of copper ; for
white, oxide of tin ; for yellow, oxide of silver,
<tc. These substances are either added to the
melted contents of the glass-pot, as in prepar-
ing artificial gems (see No. 2419), or are ap-
plied in a thin layer to the surface of the
object, which is then heated until the coloring
compound fuses as in enameling. (See No.
2378.)
2362. French Glass Used for Light-
Houses. The special composition of the
crown glass used for the light apparatus for
light-houses was, until quite recently, kept a
secret by the manufacturers of Saint Gobain,
in France, and some firms in Birmingham,
which had the monopoly of this branch of
trade. From the researches of David M.
Henderson, C. E., we are able to furnish the
composition of both. The French glass is
composed of silicic acid, 72.1 parts; soda, 12.2
parts; and lime, 15.7 parts; including some
traces of alumina and oxide of iron.
2363. English Light-House Glass.
In Birmingham it is made from 560 pounds
French sand, 203 pounds carbonate of soda,
63 pounds lime, 28 pounds nitrate of soda,
and 3 pounds arsenious acid. The best qual-
ities of this glass are at present produced in
the Siemens furnace.
2364. Liquid Spectroscopes. The use
of transparent liquids, such as bisulphide of
carbon, for the manufacture of lenses, is mak-
ing rapid progress on the ground of economy ;
large pieces of glass, free from flaw and blem-
ish, being difficult to obtain, and expensive.
PoggeudorfFs "Annalen" calls attention to
possible disturbances of the accuracy of liquid
prisms, the lines in the spectrum varying with
the temperature. The divergence, owing to
changes of heat and cold, of the lines of solid
prisms, is quite insignificant. A glass prism,
heated in the sun and then removed to the
shade, was observed to possess an increased
refractive power as it cooled, while a bisul-
phide prism exhibited a reversed result. These
facts point out the importance of the use of the
thermometer in conjunction with the spectro-
scope, and also show that there is room for
great improvement in the manufacture of
glass for optical purposes.
2365. Prismatic Diamond Crystals
for Windows. A hot solution of sulphate
of magnesia, and a clear solution of gum-ara-
bic, mixed together. Lay it on hot. For a
margin or for figures, wipe off the part you
wish to remain clear with a wet towel.
2366. To Drill Glass. Wet an ordinary
drill with petroleum or benzine ; turpentine
will answer, but not so well ; it will then bore
common glass nearly as rapidly as steel. If
it is intended to bore through, the glass should
be first countersunk on each side with a drill
dressed off so as to form a very flat three-
sided pyramid. Flint and plate-glass are very
difficult to bore. It has been recently ascer-
tained that dilute sulphuric acid is much more
ENAMELS.
225
effective, -with less -wear of the tool, than oil
of turpentine. It is stated that at Berlin,
glass castings for pump barrels etc., are drilled,
planed and bored like iron ones, and in the
same lathes and machines, by the aid of sul-
phuric acid.
2367. To Cut Glass Round or Oval
Without a Diamond. Scratch the glass
around the shape you desire with the corner
of a file or graver ; then, having bent a piece
of wire to the same shape, heat it red hot and
lay it upon the scratch, sink the glass into
cold water just deep enough for the water to
come almost on a level with its upper surface.
2368. To Break Glass in any Required
Way. Dip a piece of worsted thread in
spirits of turpentine, wrap it round the glass
in the direction required to be broken, and
then set fire to the thread, or apply a red hot
wire round the glass ; if it does not immediate-
ly crack, throw cold water on it while the
wire remains hot. By this means glass ves-
sels that have been broken may often be fash-
ioned and rendered useful for a variety of pur-
poses.
2369. To Break a Glass Bottle or
Jar Across its Circumference. Place the
bottle in a vessel of water, to the height where
it is designed to break >it; also fill the bottle
to the same level. Ifow pour coal oil inside
and out on the water ; cut a ring of paper,
fitting the bottle. Saturate with alcohol or
benzine, so that it touches the oil. Pour,
also, some inside the bottle. Set on fire; the
cold water prevents the glass from heating
below its surface, while the expansion caused
by the heat will break the vessel on the water
line.
2370. Glass of Antimony. Roast pow-
dered antimony in a shallow vessel over a
gentle fire, until it turns whitish gray, and
ceases to emit fumes at a red heat ; then heat
it in a crucible until it fuses into a brownish
red glass. If calcined too much, a little more
antimony must be added to make it run well.
2371. Writing on Glass. This may
be done with a piece of French chalk, or
crayons prepared for the purpose; or even
with a common pen held nearly perpendicular.
India ink, or, when the article will be exposed
to damp, shellac varnish, thickened with a
little vermilion or lampblack, for red or black
color, is best adapted for the purpose. Com-
mon ink is not sufficiently opaque.
2372. To Imitate Ground Glass. A
ready way of imitating ground glass is to dis-
solve Epsom salts in beer, and apply with a
brush. As it dries it crystallizes.
2373. To Make Prince Rupert's
Drops. Prince Rupert's drops are made by
letting drops of melted glass fall into cold wa-
ter ; the drops assume by that means an oval
form, with a tail or neck resembling a retort.
They possess this singular property, that if a
small portion of the tail is broken off, the
whole bursts into powder, with an explosion,
and a considerable shock is communicated to
the hand that grasps it.
2374. To Etch on Glass. Etching with
hydrofluoric acid on plate glass is practiced
now to a very considerable extent, the French
manufacturers especially producing splendid
ornamental effects by this process. The
drawings to be imitated or etched on the glass
are first made on stone or plate and then
printed on unsized paper with an ink consist-
ing principally of a solution of asphalturn in
oil of turpentine made with the aid of heat, to
which some substance is added which shows
a more or less crystalline structure on cooling,
as stearic acid, spermaceti, naphthaline, par-
affme. This mixture is strained and rapidly
cooled with constant stirring ; it is the only
kind of coating which thoroughly resists the
action of the corrosive acid. The printed pa-
per is laid flat with the blank side on water,
to which from 10 to 25 per cent, of muriatic
acid has been added, and as soon as the lines
show signs of softening the negative printing
is transferred to the glass by a slight pressure;
when the paper is removed, the picture will
adhere to the glass, and this is afterwards ex-
posed to the fluoric vapors in leaden troughs.
2375. To Etch or Write on Glass. A
writer in Dingler's "Polytechnisches Journal"
recommends a solution of fluoride of ammo-
nium, which can be used with an ordinary
quill, and on drying leaves a distinct line.
2376. To Engrave on Glass. To en-
grave on glass, fluoric acid is used, either in
the liquid state or in vapor. This acid is kept
in metal bottles, and requires very careful
handling. The glass must be warmed, and
coated with wax, or engravers' cement, and
the writing or design traced through the wax
with a pointed instrument. The liquid fluoric
acid is poured on it, and left to act on the un-
covered portions of the glass ; or pour some
of the acid in a small lead pan, which place
in a still larger vessel filled with sand ; heat
the sand and place the glass object over the
gas liberated from the heated acid, and it will
soon be found to be beautifully etched. Great
care must be taken when this is going on, for
the gas, as well as the acid, is of a very dele-
terious character. The same effect may be
produced by the use of fluorspar, powdered
and made into a paste with oil of vitriol, laid
over the prepared surface, and covered with
lead-foil or tea-lead ; or bruised fluorspar is
put in a wedgwood evaporating basin, with
sufficient oil of vitriol to form a thin paste,
and the prepared glass laid over the basin, so
that the vapors may act on the portions from
which the wax has been removed.
2377. Glass of Borax. Calcine borax
with a strong heat till the water of crystalli-
zation is expelled, and the salt fuses into a
clear glass.
Eliamels. A species of vitreous
varnish, colored by means of metallic
oxides (see No. 2393) and applied in a thin
stratum to brightly polished metallic surfaces
(copper or gold), on which it is fused by the
flame of a blowpipe, or by the heat of a small
furnace. The basis of all enamels is a highly
transparent and fusible glass, called frit, flux,
or paste.
2379. Base Frit or Flux for Enamels.
The precise qualities of the products of the
following processes depend greatly upon the
duration and degree of heat entployed. By
increasing the quantity of sand, glass, or flux,
the enamel is rendered more fusible, and the
opacity and whiteness is increased by the addi-
226
ENAMELS.
tion of oxide of tin. The use of borax should
be avoided, or used very sparingly, as it is
apt to make the enamel effloresce and lose
color.
I. Red lead, 16 parts; calcined borax, 3
parts; powdered flint glass, 12 parts; pow-
dered flints, 4 parts; fuse in a Hessian crucible
for 12 hours, then pour it out into water, and
reduce it to a powder in a biscuit-ware (unglaz-
ed porcelain) mortar.
II. Powdered flints, 10 parts; nitre and
white arsenic, of each 1 part as last.
III. Flint glass, 3 ounces; red lead, 1 ounce;
as last.
IT. Eed lead, 18 parts ; borax (not calcin-
ed), 11 parts ; flint glass, 16 parts ; as last.
T. Ffint glass, 6 parts; flux No. II, above,
4 parts; red lead, 8 parts; as last.
YI. Tin, 2 to 5 parts ; lead, 10 parts ; cal-
cine in an iron pot at a dull cherry-red heat,
and scrape off the oxide as it forms, observing
to obtain it quite tree from undecomposed
metal ; when enough of the dross is obtained,
reduce it to fine powder by grinding and elu-
triation (see No. 14), then mix 4 parts of this
powder with an equal weight of pure sand or
powdered flints, and 1 of sea-salt, or other
alkaline matter; fuse the mixture in a Hessian
crucible, and proceed as before. The best
proportions of the tin and lead, for all ordinary
purposes, are about 3 of the former to 10 of
the latter. The calcined mixed oxides are
commonly called calcine.
YII. Lead and tin, equal parts ; calcine as
above ; and take of the mixed oxides, or cal-
cine (see preceding receipt) and ground flints,
of each 1 part ; pure subcarbonate of potash,
2 parts; as before.
YIII. Lead, 30 parts; tin, 33 parts; calcine
as before, then mix 50 parts of the calcine
with an equal weight of flints, in powder, and
1 pound of salts of tartar ; as before. A fine
dead white enamel.
2380. Black Enamels. I. Pure clay,
3 parts ; protoxide of iron, 1 part ; mix and
fuse. A fine black.
II. Calcined iron (protoxide), 12 parts; ox-
ide of cobalt, 1 part ; mix, and add an equal
weight of white flux. (See No. 2396.)
III. Peroxide of manganese, 3 parts; zaffre,
1 part ; mix and add it as required to white
flux. Zaffre is crude oxide of cobalt.
2381. Blue Enamels. Either of the
white fluxes colored with oxide of cobalt.
II. Sand, red lead, and nitre, of each 10
parts ; flint glass or ground flints, 20 parts ;
oxide of cobalt, 1 part, more or less, the quan-
tity depending on the depth of color required.
2382. Brown Enamels. I. Red lead
and calcined iron, of each 1 part ; antimony,
litharge, and sand, of each 2 parts; mix and
add it in any required proportion to a flux,
according to the color desired. A little oxide
of cobalt or zaffre is frequently added, and
alters the shade of brown.
II. Manganese, 5 parts; red lead, 16 parts;
flint powder, 8 parts ; mix.
III. Manganese, 9 parts ; red lead, 34 parts ;
flint powder, 16 parts.
2383. Green Enamels. I. Flux, 2
pounds ; black oxide of copper, 1 ounce ; red
oxide of iron, ^ drachm ; mix.
II. As above, but use the red oxide of cop-
per. Less decisive.
III. Copper dust and litharge, of each 2
ounces ; nitre, 1 ounce ; sand, 4 ounces ; flux,
as much as required.
IY. Add oxide of chrome to a sufficient
quantity of flux to produce the desired
shade ; when well managed the color is su-
perb, and will stand a very great heat ; but in
careless hands, it frequently turns on the
dead-leaf tinge.
Y. Transparent flux, 5 ounces ; black oxide
of copper, 2 scruples ; oxide of chrome, 2
grains. Resembles the emerald.
YI. Mix blue and yellow enamel in the re-
quired proportions.
2384. Olive Enamels. Good blue en-
amel, 2 parts ; black and yellow enamels, of
each Ipart; mix. (Sec Brown Enamels.)
2385. Orange Enamels. I. Red lead,
12 parts ; red sulphate of iron and oxide of
antimony, of each 1 part ; flint powder, 3
parts; calcine, powder, and melt with flux, 50
parts.
II. Red lead, 12 parts ; oxide of antimony,
4 parts ; flint powder, 3 parts ; red sulphate of
iron, 1 part ; calcine, then add flux, 5 parts to
every 2 parts of this mixture.
2386. Purple Enamels. I. Flux col-
ored with oxide of gold, purple precipitate of
cassius (see Nos. 2720 to 2723), or peroxide
of manganese.
II. Sulphur, nitre, vitriol, antimony, and
oxide of tin, of each 1 pound ; red lead, 60
pounds ; mix and fuse, cool and powder ; add
rose copper, 19 ounces ; zaffre, 1 ounce ; cro-
cus martis, 1£ ounces; borax, 3 ounces; and 1
pound of a compound formed of gold, silver,
and mercury; fuse, stirring the melted mass
with a copper rod all the time, then place it
in crucibles, and submit them to the action of
a reverberatory furnace for 24 hours. This is
said to be the purple enamel used in the mo-
saic pictures of St. Peter's at Rome.
2387. Dark Bed Enamel. Sulphate
of iron (calcined dark), 1 part; a mixture of
6 parts of flux IY. (in No. 2379) and 1 of
colcothar, 3 parts.
2388. Light Bed Enamel. Red sul-
phate of iron, 2 parts; flux I (in No. 2379) 6
parts ; white lead, 3 parts. Light red.
2389. Bed Enamel. Paste or flux col-
ored with the red or protoxide of copper.
Should the color pass into the green or brown,
from the partial peroxidizement of the copper,
from the heat being raised too high, the red
color may be restored by the addition of any
carbonaceous matter, as tallow, or charcoal.
2390. Beautiful Bed Enamel. The
most beautiful and costly red, inclining to the
purple tinge, is produced by tinging glass or
flux with the oxide or salts of gold, or with
the purple precipitate of cassius (see Nos.
2720 to 2723), which consists of gold and tin.
In the hands of the skillful artist, any of
these substances produce shades of red of the
most exquisite hue ; when most perfect, the
enamel comes from the fire quite colorless,
and afterwards receives its rich hue from the
flame of the blow-pipe.
2391. Bose Colored Enamels. Pur-
ple enamel, or its elements, 3 parts ; flux, 90
parts; mix, and add silver-leaf or oxide of
silver, 1 part or less.
2392. Transparent Enamels. Either
of the first five fluxes in Xo. 2379.
GLAZES.
227
2393. Violet Enamels. Saline or alka-
line frits or fluxes colored with small quanti-
ties of peroxide of manganese. As the color
depends on the metal being at the maximum
of oxidation, contact with all substances that
would abstract any of its oxygen should be
avoided. The same remarks apply to other
> metallic oxides.
2394. Yellow Enamels. Superior yel-
low enamels are less easily produced than most
other colors ; they require but little flux, and
that mostly of a metallic nature. I. Eedlead,
8 ounces ; oxide of antimony and tin, calcined
together, each 1 ounce; mix, and add flux
IV. (in No. 2379), 15 ounces ; mix and fuse.
By varying the proportion of the ingredients,
various shades may be produced.
II. Lead, tin ashes, litharge, antimony, and
sand, each 1 ounce ; nitre, 4 ounces ; mix, fuse,
and powder, and add the product to any
quantity of flux, according to the color re-
quired.
III. Flux fused with oxide of lead, and a
little red oxide of iron.
IT. Pure oxide of silver added to the me-
tallic fluxes. The salts of silver are also
used, but are difficult to manage. If a thin
film of oxide of silver be spread over the sur-
face of the enamel to be colored, exposed to a
moderate heat, then withdrawn, and the film
of reduced silver on the surface removed, the
part under will be found tinged of a fine yel-
low.
2395. Bright Yellow Enamel. White
oxide of antimony, alum, and sal ammoniac,
each 1 part ; pure carbonate 'of lead, 1 to 3
parts, as required, all in powder; mix, and ex-
pose to a heat sufficiently high to decompose
the sal ammoniac.
2396. Dead- White Enamel. For white
enamel, the articles must be perfectly free
from foreign admixture, as this would impart
a color. When well managed, either of the
following forms will produce a paste that will
rival the opal. Calcine (from 2 parts of tin
and 1 part of lead calcined together), 1 part ;
fine crystal or frit, 2 parts; a very trifling
quantity of manganese ; powder, mix, melt,
and pour the fused mass into clean water ;
dry, powder, and again fuse, and repeat the
whole process 3 or 4 times, observing to avoid
contamination with smoke, dirt, or oxide of
iron.
2397. Fine White Enamel. "Washed
diaphoretic antimony, 1 part ; fine glass (per-
fectly free from lead), 3 parts ; mix, and pro-
ceed as before.
2398. To Make Black Enamel for
Gold or Silver. Melt together in a crucible,
1 part, by weight, of silver, 5 parts copper, 7
parts lead, and 5 parts muriate of ammonia.
Add to this mixture twice its quantity of pul-
verized sulphur, covering the crucible imme-
diately. Let it calcine until the excess of
sulphur has passed off. Then pound the com-
pound to coarse powder and make it into a
paste with a solution of muriate of ammonia.
This is the black enamel used for jewelry.
2399. To Black Enamel Gold or Sil-
ver. Place some of the enamel paste, as pre-
pared in the preceding receipt, on the article
to be enameled ; hold it over a spirit lamp
until the enamel melts and flows upon it. It
may then be smoothed and polished.
2400. Black or Enameled Copper.
The beautiful enameled surface possessed by
paintings on copper, may be produced, on a
black ground, by the following process : Clean
the copper with sand and sulphuric acid, and
then apply the following mixture : 2 parts
white arsenic, 4 parts hydrochloric acid, 1 sul-
phuric acid, and 24 water.
2401. Enamel for Labels, Signboards,
etc. The fine enamels of trade are generally
prepared by fusing at high temperatures,
silica, oxide of tin, and oxide of lead, and
spreading the mixture over the surface of a
sheet of copper, gold, or platinum. The ob-
jections to these enamels are, in the first place
their high cost, and secondly the impossibility
of giving them a perfectly flat surface. Mr.
B. Duchemin has advantageously replaced
them by the following economical and efficient
compound :
2402. Duchemin's Enamel for Labels,
etc. Arsenic, 30 parts by weight ; saltpetre,
30 parts; silica (fine sand), 90 parts; litharge,
250 parts. This is spread on plates of glass
of the required shape and size, care being
taken, however, that the kind of glass em-
ployed be not inferior in point of fusibility to
the enamel. Enameled glass prepared from
the above substances may be drawn or written
on as readily as if it were paper, and in less
time than one minute the writing may be
rendered indelible by simply heating the plate
in a small open furnace or muffle. Drawings,
autographs, legal acts, public documents, his-
torical tacts and dates of importance, labels
for horticultural purposes or destined for out-
of-door exposure, coffin plates, signboards,
show-case signs, etc., may thus be cheaply
made, which will resist atmospheric influences
for ages. First-class photographs, either pos-
itives or negatives, may be taken on such en-
amels without collodion. (See Photographs
on Enamel.)
2403. Enamel for Iron Hollow Ware.
The enamel of iron hollow ware is made of
powdered flints, ground with calcined borax,
fine clay, and a little feldspar. This mixture
is made into a paste with water and brushed
over the pots after they have been scoured
with diluted sulphuric acid and rinsed clean
with water. While still moist they are
dusted over with a glaze composed of feldspar,
carbonate of sodium, borax, and a little oxide
of tin. Thus prepared, the pots are gradually
dried and then the glaze is fired or fused under
a muffle at a bright red heat. Oxide of lead,
although increasing the fusibility of the glaze,
impairs its efficiency, as it will not resist the
action of acids in cooking.
G1&Z6S. Glazes must be reduced to
a very fine powder. For use they are
ground with water to a very thin paste or
smooth cream, into which the articles, pre-
viously baked to the state called " biscuit,"
are then dropped; they are afterwards exposed
to a sufficient heat in the kiln to fuse the
glaze. Another method of applying them is
to immerse the biscuit in water for a minute
or so, and then to sprinkle the dry powder
over the moistened surface.
228
ARTIFICIAL GEMS.
2405. White Glazing. Prepare an in-
timate mixture of 4 parts massicot (see Index),
2 parts tin ashes, 3 of crystal glass fragments,
and £ part sea salt. The mixture is suffered
to melt in earthenware vessels, when the li-
quid flux may be made use of.
2406. Yellow Glazing. Take equal
parts of massicot, red lead, and sulphuret of
antimony. Calcine the mixture and reduce it
again to powder, add then 2 parts of pure
sand and Ik parts of salt. Melt the whole.
2407. Green Glazing. Sand, 2 parts;
3 parts massicot, 1 part of salt and copper
scales, according to the shade to be produced.
The mixture is melted as directed above.
2408. Violet Glazing. Massicot, 1 part ;
3 parts sand, 1 of smalt, and £ part black oxide
of manganese.
2409. Blue Glazing. White sand and
massicot, equal parts, £ part of blue smalt.
2410. Black Glazing. Black oxide of
manganese, 2 parts; 1 of smalt, 1| of burned
quartz, and H massicot.
2411. Brown Glazing. Take 1 part bro-
ken green bottle glass, 1 of manganese, and 2
parts lead glass.
2412. Glaze without Lead. Common
earthenware is glazed with a composition con-
taining lead, on which account it is unfit for
many purposes. The following glaze has been
proposed, among others, as a substitute : 100
parts washed sand, 80 parts purified potash,
10 of nitre, and 20 of slacked lime, all well
mixed, and heated in a black-lead crucible, in
a reverberatory furnace, till the mass flows
into a clear glass. It is then to be reduced to
powder. The goods to be^ slightly burnt,
dipped in water, and sprinkled with the pow-
der.
2413. Glaze for Porcelain. Feldspar,
27 parts; borax, 18 parts; Lynn sand, 4 parts;
nitre, 3 parts ; soda, 3 parts ; Cornwall china-
clay, 3 parts. Melt together to form a frit,
and reduce it to a powder with 3 parts calcined
borax.
2414. Metallic Lustres for Pottery.
The appearance of a lustrous metallic surface
is given to vessels of stoneware, <fcc., by ap-
plying the lustre over an easily-fusible glaze
to the outer surface of the vessel, after which
adhesure is produced by exposing it to a slight
degree of heat. They are then polished with
cotton or leather. The principal lustres are
given in the following receipts :
2415. Gold Lustre. Dissolve 1 drachm
grain-gold in f ounce aqua-regia, add 6 grains
metallic tin to the solution. When dissolved,
pour it gradually, with constant stirring, into
a mixture of i drachm balsam of sulphur,
(sec Index), and 20 grains oil of turpentine.
When the mass begins to stiffen, an additional
\ drachm oil of turpentine must be added and
well mixed in. More gold deepens and bright-
ens the lustre ; more tin turns it on the violet
or purple. Applied as in No. 2414.
2416. Iron Lustre. This is a mixture
of muriate of iron and spirit of tar. Used ac-
cording to No. 2414.
2417. Platinum Lustre. To bichloride
of platinum (a solution of platina in aqua-
regia), is added drop by drop a mixture of
spirit of tar and balsam of sulphur in equal
proportions, until by a trial the composition is
found to give the required result. This gives
the appearance of polished steel. (See No
2414.)
2418. Silver Lustre. Reduce ammonio-
chloride of platinum to an impalpable powder;
grind it to the requisite consistence with a
little spirit of tar, and apply with a brush as
directed in No. 2414.
Artificial GremS. These consist
jL"\_of vitreous compounds made in imita-
tion of gems and precious stones. Like en-
amels, the artificial gems have for their basis
a very fusible, highly transparent and bril-
liant dense glass, which is known under the
name of frit, paste, strass, mayence base,
&c., and which, in its state of greatest excel-
lence, consitutes the artificial diamond. As
the strass or base enters largely into the man-
ufacture of imitation gems, we give the meth-
od for making it first. It is absolutely ne-
cessary, to ensure success in the following re-
ceipts, that the substances employed be per-
fectly free from impurities, particularly those
of a mineral nature. Litharge, oxide of lead,
and carbonate of lead especially, must be
entirely free from oxide of tin, as the smallest
particle of this imparts inilkiness to the paste.
All the ingredients must be separately re-
duced to powder; and, after being mixed,
sifted through lawn. For the finer kinds of
mock diamonds, rock crystal should alone be
employed; when sand is used, the purest
white variety should be selected, and be
washed thoroughly, first with muriatic acid
and then with water, to remove any traces of
earthy matter. Much of the minute detail in
making artificial gems can onlybe acquired
by experience. The fusion must be carefully
conducted and continuous, and the meltecl
mass allowed to cool very slowly, after having
been left in the fire for 24 to 30 hours at
least. Hessian crucibles are preferred for this
purpose, and the heat of an ordinary porce-
lain kiln is usually sufficient; but a small
wind-furnace, devoted exclusively to the pur-
pose, is in general more convenient. It is
found that the more tranquil, continuous and
uniform the fusion, the denser and clearer is
the paste, and the greater its refractive pow-
er and beauty. All the colored vitreous com-
pounds noticed as enamels (sec No. 2378, <f c. )
may be worked up in this way into ornament-
al stones. It may be further observed that
the beauty of pastes or imitation gems, and
especially the brilliancy of mock diamonds, is
greatly dependent on the cutting, setting up,
and the skillful arrangement of the foil or tin-
sel behind them. (Sec ENAMELS, No. 2378,
<fc.; FOILS, No. 2447, <J-c.)
2420. Diamond Paste, or Strass.
Litharge, 20 parts; silica, 12 parts; nitre and
borax, each 4 parts ; white arsenic, 2 parts ; '
powder mix, fuse in a crucible, pour the
melted mass into water, separate any reduced
lead, and again powder and re-melt.
2421. Mayence Base, or Strass. Sili-
ca (quartz, flint or rock crystal _), 8 ounces;
salt of tartar, 24 ounces ; mix, bake, cool,
wash with dilute nitric acid, a7Kl afterwards
with water; dry, powder, add 12 ounces pure
carbonate of lead, and to every 12 ounces of
ARTIFICIAL GEMS.
229
the mixture add borax, 1 ounce ; triturate iu
a porcelain mortar, melt in a clean crucible,
and pour the fused compound into cold water;
dry, powder, and repeat the process a second
and a third time in a clean crucible, observing
to separate any revived lead. To the third
frit add nitre, 5 drachms, and again melt.
Yery brilliant. Or: Carbonate of lead, 8 oun-
ces; powdered borax, 2 ounces; rock crystal,
3 ounces ; manganese, £ grain ; mix, and pro-
ceed as last.
2432. Patent Base for Artificial
Gems. The base of these genis, as patented
by the Superintendent of the Royal Porcelain
"Works at Berlin, is a flux obtained by melting
together 6 drachms carbonate of soda, 2
drachms burnt borax, 1 drachm saltpetre, 3
drachms minium, and li ounces purest white
sand.
2423. Loysel's Strass or Paste. Pure
silex (flint or quartz), 100 parts; red oxide of
lead (minium), 150 parts; calcined potash, 30
to 35 parts ; calcined borax, 10 parts ; arseni-
ous acid, 1 part. This produces a paste which
has great brilliancy and refractive and dispers-
ive powers, and also a similar specific gravity
to the oriental diamond. It fuses at a moder-
ate heat, and acquires the greatest brilliancy
when re-melted, and kept for 2 or 3 days in a
fused state, in order to expel the superabund-
ant alkali, and perfect the refining.
2424. Fontanier's Base for Artificial
Gems. Mix together 8 ounces pure silica
and 24 ounces salt of tartar ; bake, cool, wash
with dilute nitric acid, and afterwards with
water ; dry, powder, add 12 ounces pure car-
bonate of lead, and to every 12 ounces of the
mixture add borax, 1 ounce ; triturate in a
porcelain mortar, melt in a clean crucible, and
pour the fused compound into cold water;
dry, powder, and repeat the process a second
and a third time in a clean crucible, observing
to separate any revived lead. To the third
frit add nitre, 5 drachms, and again melt.
The product is perfectly limpid and extremely
brilliant.
2425. Doualt-Wieland's Paste or
Strass. Rock crystal, 4056 grains ; minium,
6300 grains ; potash, 2154 grains ; borax, 276
grains; arsenic, 12 grains. Or: Sand, 3600
grains ; pure carbonate of lead, 8508 grains :
potash, 1260 grains; borax, 360 grains; ar-
senic, 12 grains.
2426. Lancon's Paste or Strass. Li-
tharge, 100 grains ; silex, 75 grains ; white
tartar or potash, 10 grains.
2427. Bed Cornelian. Strass, 2 pounds;
glass of antimony, 1 pound ; calcined perox-
ide of iron (rouge), 2 ounces ; manganese, 1
drachm.
2428. White Cornelian. Strass, 2
pounds ; washed yellow ochre, 2 drachms ;
calcined bones, 1 ounce.
2429. Oriental Garnet or Carbuncle.
Fuse 512 grains paste, 256 grains glass of an-
timony, 2 grains purple of cassius, and 2
grains oxide of manganese. Or: 359 grains
paste, 178 grains glass of antimony, and 2
grains oxide of manganese.
2430. Vinegar Garnet. Take 2 pounds
paste, 1 pound glass of antimony, and 2 ounce
oxide of iron.
2431. Opal. Take 1 ounce paste, 10
grains horn silver, 2 grains calcined magnetic
ore, 26 grains calcined bones. Or : 10 pounds
paste, and i pound calcined bones.
2432. Ruby. Take 40 parts paste, and
1 part oxide of manganese. Or: 1 part topaz
paste that has turned out opaque, and 8 parts
strass ; fuse for 30 hours, cool, and fuse small
pieces before a blow-pipe. Or: 8 ounces strass,
84 grains each precipitate of cassius (see Nos.
2720 to 2723), peroxide of iron, golden sul-
phuret of antimony, and manganese calcined
with nitre ; add 1 ounce or more of rock crys-
tal. Or : 1 pound paste and 3 drachms pur-
ple of cassius. Or : 4 ounces paste, 4 ounces
glass of antimony, and £ drachm purple of
cassius ; this turns on the orange.
2433. Sapphire. Fuse 1152 parts paste
and 68 parts oxide of cobalt for 30 hours in a
luted Hessian crucible. Or: 8 ounces paste
and 49 grains oxide of cobalt. A little man-
ganese may be added to this last receipt.
2434. Topaz. Melt 98 grains paste
and 1 grain calcined peroxide of iron. Or :
1008 grains paste, 43 grains glass of anti-
mony, and 1 grain purple of cassius. (See
Nos. 2720 to 2723.)
2435. Turquois. Take 10 pounds blue
paste, $ pound calcined bones.
2436. Yellow Diamond. Take 1 ounce
strass, and 10 grains glass of antimony. Or:
1 ounce strass and 24 grains chloride of silver.
2437. Chrysolite. Strass, 5 pounds;
calcined peroxide of iron, 3 to 4 drachms.
2438. Eagle Marine. Paste of strass,
10 pounds ; copper highly calcined with sul-
phur (copper-stain), 3 ounces; zaff're, 1 scruple.
2439. Emerald. Lancon's paste (sec
No. 2426), 9612 grains ; acetate of copper, 72
grains; peroxide of iron, li grains. Or: Dou-
ault-~Wieland paste (see No. 2425), 4608 grains;
green oxide of copper, 42 grains; oxide of
chrome, 2 grains. Or : Paste, 1 ounce ; glass
of antimony, 20 grains; oxide of cobalt, 3
grains. Or: Paste, 15 ounces; carbonate of
copper, 1 drachin ; glass of antimony, 6 grains.
2440. Lapis Lazuli. Paste, 10 pounds ;
calcined horn or bones, 12 ounces ; oxides of
cobalt and manganese, of each, \ ounce ; mix.
The golden veins are produced by painting
them on with a mixture of gold powder,
borax, and gum water, and gently heating till
the borax fluxes.
2441 . Amethyst. Take 500 grains paste,
3 grains oxide of manganese, and 2 grains ox-
ide of cobalt. Or: 4608 grains paste, 36
grains oxide of manganese, 24 grains oxide of
cobalt, and 1 grain purple of cassuis. (See
Nos. 2720 to 2723.) Or: 9216 grains paste,
15 to 24 grains oxide of manganese, and 1
grain oxide of cobalt.
2442. Aqua Marina, or Beryl. Take
3200 grains paste, 20 grains glass of antimony,
and 1 grain oxide of cobalt. Or: 2304 grains
paste, 16 grains glass of antimony, and 1
grain oxide of cobalt.
2443. Aventurine, or Gold Stone.
Fuse 10 grains scales of iron, 50 grains paste,
and 5. grains protoxide of copper, until the
copper is reduced to metallic form, then allow j
the mass to cool very slowly, so that the
minute crystals of metal become equally dif-
fused through it. By substituting oxide of
chromium for the protoxide of copper, the
stone appears brown, filled with minute gold
spangles ; or by using a less quantity of the
FOILS.
chromium, a greenish gray stone, filled with
green spangles, is produced.
2444. Parisian Diamonds. These
beautiful imitations of the gem are merely
fused oxide of tin. It is a pity that their bril-
liancy is not permanent, as they become quite
dull in time.
2445. Boettger's Artificial Rubies.
Moisten recently precipitated and well washed
hydrate of alumina, with a few drops of neu-
tral chromate of potassa, and kneaded so that
the mass assumes a scarcely perceptible tinge;
then roll it out into small sticks, about the
thickness of a finger, and dry them slowly,
filling up any cracks that may occur in drying
with fresh hydrate of alumina. When per-
fectly dry, warm a stick a little, and bring a
portion into the end of the flame of a com-
pound (oxyhydrogen) blow-pipe. In a few
minutes several minute balls form, of such in-
tense hardness as to scratch quartz, glass, and
granite. These, however, when cut and pol-
ished, appear slightly opaque.
2446. Boettger's Artificial Emerald.
This is made in the same manner as his rubies,
by employing nitrate of nickel instead of the
chromate of potassa. The same plan, substi-
tuting oxide of chromium for chromate of
potassa, will produce gems of considerable
hardness and beauty, though slightly opaque;
which may, however, be lessened by the addi-
tion of a very little silica.
Foils. These are leaves of polished
metal, put under stones or pastes, to
heighten the effect. Foils were formerly
made of copper, tinned copper, tin, and sil-
vered copper, but the latter is used for superior
work at the present day. There are two
descriptions of foils employed, viz.: white, for
diamonds and mock diamonds, and colored, for
the colored gems. The latter are prepared by
varnishing the former. By their judicious use
the color of a stone may be often modified.
Thus, by placing a yellow foil under a green
stone that turns too much on the blue, or a
red one turning too much on the crimson, the
hues will be brightened. By the skillful use
of the following varnishes, good imitations of
the gems may be cheaply made from transpa-
rent white glass or paste, and when applied to
foils set under colored pastes, (factitious
gems), a superior effect may be produced.
The colors must be reduced to the finest state
possible by patient grinding, as without this
precaution, transparent and beautiful shades
cannot bo formed. The palest and cleanest
mastich, and lac dissolved in alcohol, and also
the palest and quickest drying oil, should
alone be employed, when these substances
are ordered. In every case the colors must
be laid on the foils with a broad soft brush,
and the operation should be performed, if
possible, at once, as no part should be crossed,
or twice gone over while wet. •*
2448. White or Common Foil. This
is made by coating a plate of copper with a
layer of silver, and then rolling it into sheets
in the flatting mill. The foil is then highly
polished or varnished.
2449. Colored Foils. These are made
by coloring the preceding foil, highly polished,
with certain transparent solutions or varnishes.
The following produce beautiful colored ef-
fects, when judiciously employed.
2450. Blue Foil. Prussian blue, ground
with pale, quick-drying oil. Used to deepen
the color of sapphires. It may be diluted
with oil.
2451. Green Foil. Pale shellac, dis-
solved in alcohol (lacquer), and tinged green
by dissolving verdigris or acetate of copper in
it. Or: Sesquiferrocyanuret of iron and
bichromate of potassa, of each £ ounce; grind
them with a stone and muller to a fine powder,
add gum mastich (clean and also in fine pow-
der), 2 ounces ; grind again, add a little py-
roxilic spirit, and again grind until the mass
becomes homogeneous and of a fine transpa-
rent green; the beauty increases with the
length of the grinding. The predominance of
the bichromate turns it on the yellowish
green ; that of the salt of iron, on the bluish
green. For use it is to be thinned with
pyroxilic spirit. This is used for emeralds.
It may be brightened by adding a little yellow
varnish.
2452. Yellow Foil. Yarious shades
of yellow may be produced by tinging a weak
alcoholic solution of shellac or mastich, by
digesting turmeric, annotto, saffron, or soco-
trine aloes therein. The former is the bright-
est and most fit for topazes. Or : Digest hay
saffron in 5 or 6 times its weight of boiling
water, until the latter becomes sufficiently
colored ; filter, and add a little solution of gum
or isinglass. "When dry, a coating of spirit
varnish should be applied.
2453. Red Foil. Carmine dissolved in
spirits of hartshorn, or a weak solution of salt
of tartar, and gum added as above.
2454. Garnet Foil. Dragon's blood
dissolved in rectified spirit of wine. (See No.
2449.)
2455. Vinegar Garnet Foil. White
foil (see No. 2449) varnished with orange lake
finely tempered with shellac varnish.
2456. Amethyst Foil. Lake and
Prussian blue, ground fine in pale drying oil.
2457. Eagle Marine Foil. Verdigris
tempered in shellac varnish (alcoholic), with
a little Prussian blue. With this varnish
white foil. (See No. 2449.)
2458. Ruby Foil. Lake or carmine,
ground in isinglass. Or : Lake ground in
shellac varnish. Used when the color turns
on the purple. Or : Bright lake ground in
oil ; used when the color turns on the scarlet
or orange. Either of these are applied to"
white foil. (See No. 2449.)
2459. To Make an Imitation Dia-
mond more Brilliant. Cover the inside of
the socket in which the stone or paste is to
be set with tin foil, by means of a little stiff
gum or size ; when dry, polish the surface, .
heat the socket, fill it with warm quicksilver,
let it rest for 2 or 3 minutes, after which pour
it but and gently fit in the stone; lastly, well
close the work round the stone, to prevent
the alloy being shaken out. Or: Coat the
bottom of the stone with a film of real silver,
by precipitating it from a solution of the nitrate
in spirits of ammonia, by means of the oils of
cassia and cloves. (See SILVERING GLASS.)
Both these methods vastly increase the bril-
liancy both of real and factitious gerus.
INKS.
231
Writing inks might be included
under the general term of liquid coloring
matters, were it not. that they require to have
the special characteristics of brilliance, per-
manence, and some degree of indestructibility,
combined with perfect fluidity, in order to
fulfill the objects for which they are generally
used. Printing and lithographic and other
inks are also included under this heading.
2461. Black Ink. According to the
most accurate experiments on the preparation
of black ink, it appears that the quantity of
sulphate of iron should not exceed ^ "part of
that of the galls, by which an excess of color-
ing matter, which is necessary for the dura-
bility of the black, is preserved in the liquid.
Gain, by shielding the writing from the action
of ths air, tends to preserve the color, but if
much is employed, the ink flows badly from
quill pens, and scarcely at all from steel pens.
The latter require a very limpid ink. The ad-
dition of sugar increases the flowing property
of ink, but makes it dry more slowly, and fre-
quently passes into vinegar, when it acts in-
juriously on the pen. Vinegar, for a like
reason, is not, calculated for the fluid ingredi-
ent. The best blue galls should alone be em-
ployed in making ink. Sumach, logwood,
and oak bark, are frequently substituted for
galls in the preparation of common ink.
When such is the case, only about one-sixth
or one-seventh of their weight of copperas
should be employed.
2482. To Prevent Ink from Mould-
ing. The addition of a few bruised cloves, or
a little oil of cloves, or, still better, a few
drops of creosote, will effectually prevent any
tendency to mouldiness in ink.
2483. Fine Black Ink. Aleppo galls
(well bruised), 4 ounces ; clean soft water, I
quart ; macerate in a clean corked bottle for
10 days, or even longer, with frequent agita-
tion; then add 1J ounces gum-arabic (dis-
solved in a wine-glassful of water) ; lump
sugar i ounce ; mix well, and afterwards
further add Ik ounces sulphate of iron (green
copperas) crushed small, agitate occasionally
for 2 or 3 days, when the ink may be decanted
for use ; but it is better if left to digest together
for 2 or 3 weeks. "When time is an object,
the whole of the ingredients may be at once
put into a bottle, and the latter agitated
daily, until the ink is made ; and boiling wa-
ter instead of cold water may be employed.
The above will make 1 quart of beautiful ink,
writing pale at first, but soon turning intense-
ly black.
2484. Cooley's Superior Black Ink.
Bruised Aleppo nut-galls, 12 pounds ; water,
6 gallons ; boil in a copper vessel for 1 hour,
adding water to make up for the portion lost
by evaporation; strain and again boil, the galls
with water, 4 gallons, for A hour, strain off the
liquor and boil a third time with water, 2£
gallons, and strain ; mix the several liquors,
and while still hot add green copperas (sul-
phate of iron) coarsely powdered, 4 pounds;
gum-arabic bruised small, 3£ pounds; agitate
until dissolved, and, when settled, strain
through a hair sieve, and keep it in a bunged-
up cask for use. This will produce 12 gallons,
very fine and durable.
This ink, and that in ISTo. 2463, are good.
Cooler recommends them very highly. He
says that they are very durable and limpid,
and will bear dilution with nearly an equal
bulk of water, and still be superior in quality
to ordinary inks. Of the latter ink he says
that he has writing that was executed with
this kind of ink upwards of 60 years ago,
which still possesses a good color.
2465. Black Ink. Campeachy logwood
chips, 3 pounds ; bruised galls, 9 pounds; boil
in water, and to the mixed liquors add gum-
arabic and green copperas, of each 4 pounds ;
to produce IQk gallons of ink. Quality very
good, but inferior to the above.
2466. Asiatic Black Ink. Logwood
shavings and powdered galls, of each 2 pounds ;
green vitriol, 1 pound ; gum, 4 pound ; pome-
granate bark, J pound ; water, 1 gallon ; in-
fuse 14 days with frequent agitation, or boil as
directed in last receipt. This ink writes pale,
but flows well from the pen, and soon turns
black.
2467. Good Black Ink. Bruised galls,
2 pounds ; logwood, green copperas, and gum,
of each 1 pound ; water, 6 gallons ; boil the
whole of the ingredients in the water for lit
hours, and straiu5 gallons. Good, but not fine.
2468. Common Black Ink. Bruised
galls, 1 pound ; logwood, 2 pounds ; common
gum, £ pound ; green copperas, | pound ; wa-
ter, 5 gallons ; boil. Common, but fit for or-
dinary purposes. •
2469. Exchequer Ink. Bruised galls,
40 pounds; gum, 10 pounds; green sulphate
of iron, 9 pounds ; soft water, 45 gallons ;
macerate for 3 weeks, employing frequent agi-
tation. This ink will endure for centuries.
2470. Black Steel Pen Ink. A black
ink, not corroding steel peris, and neutral, may
be prepared by digesting in an open vessel, 42
ounces coarsely-powdered nut-galls, 15 ounces
gum Senegal, 18 ounces sulphate of iron (free
from copper), 3 drachms aqua ammonia, 24
ounces alcohol, and IB quarts distilled or rain
water. Continue the digestion until the fluid
has assumed a deep black color.
2471. Glycerine Ink. Take copperas,
4 ounces ; nut-galls, 12 ounces ; logwood, 8
ounces ; vinegar, 8 ounces ; gum-arabic, 1
ounce; glycerine, -Jounce; water, 48 ounces;
all the solid substances are to be pulverized
and boiled for an hour together ; they are then
set to cool, strained through a flannel bag,
and after that filtered through a folded filter.
A drop of oil of cloves is added, the whole
well shaken and filled into bottles. This ink
will copy well.
2472. Dr. Tire's Ink. For 12 gallons
of ink take 12 pounds bruised galls, 5 pounds
gum, 5 pounds green sulphate of iron, and. 12
gallons rain water. Boil the galls with 9
gallons of the water for 3 hours, adding fresh
water to supply that lost in vapor ; let the
decoction settle, and draw off the clear liquor.
Add to it the gum previously dissolved in Ik
gallons of water ; dissolve the green vitriol
separately inl£ gallons of water, and mix the
whole.
2473. Japan Ink. Aleppo galls, £
pound ; logwood chips and copperas, each 4
ounces ; gum-arabic, 3 ounces ; stigar, 1
ounce ; blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), and
sugar candy, each k ounce. Boil the galls and
logwood in 6 quarts water till reduced one-half;
strain ; add the other ingredient^. Stir until
INKS.
dissolved. Clear and bottle. If it does not
shine enough, add more gum ; also a few
cloves, to prevent mould.
2474. Ink Powder. For an ink pow-
der take 1 pound nut-galls, 7 ounces copperas,
and 7 ounces gum-arabic. Pulverize and mix.
This amount of ink powder will make 1 gal-
lon of good black ink. Two or three pow-
dered cloves should be mixed with each pound
of powder, to prevent moulding.
2475. Permanence of Ink. The great
difficulty with all iron inks is the precipitation
which will take place, after a longer or shorter
time, and which manufacturers have tried to
obviate by substituting other materials. All
inks, however, the basis of which is not tan-
nate and gallate of iron, are not black imme-
diately, and consequently not so agreeable to
the eye when using them. The alizarine or
rather indigo inks have a greenish, the chromi-
um inks a reddish hue, and are not better
adapted to withstand chemical agents than
iron inks are.
2476. To Keep Ink from Thickening.
The only way to keep writing ink thin with
which we are acquainted is to protect it from
the atmosphere. The air not only evaporates
it, but oxidizes it rvnd renders it thick. Those
ink-stands whichhave a tapering funnel in the
mouth will preserve the ink in its normal
state much longer than the ordinary kind, be-
cause less of the surface is exposed.
2477. "Writing Fluids. The very gen-
eral use of steel pens has caused a correspond-
ing demand for easy flowing inks, many of
which have been of late years introduced un-
der the title of "writing fluids," or "steel
pen ink." These are mostly prepared from
galls in the preceding manner, but a less
quantity of gum is employed. The blue
writing fluids, which either maintain their
color or turn black by exposure, are prepared
from the ferrocyanide of potassium (prussiate
of potassa), or from indigo.
2478. Beautiful Blue "Writing Fluid.
Dissolve basic or soluble Prussian blue in
pure water. This is the most permauent
and beautiful ink known. It is not affected
by the addition of alcohol, but is immediately
precipitated by saline matter. The precipi-
tate, however, still possesses the property of
dissolving in pure water.
2479. To Test Prussian Blue. Pure
Prussian blue feels light in the hand ; adheres
to the tongue ; has a lively dark blue color,
and gives a smooth deep trace. It should not
effervesce with acids, as when adulterated
with chalk; nor become pasty with boiling
water, as when adulterated with starch.
Prussian blue, rendered inferior in its color by
an admixture of free oxide of iron, may be im-
proved by digestion in dilute sulphuric or mu-
riatic acid, washing and drying. Its relative
richness in the real ferroprussiate of iron may
be estimated by the quantity of potash or
soda which a given quantity of it requires to
destroy its blue color.
2480. Blue "Writing Fluid. Dissolve
the soluble ferrocyanide of potassium and
iron in pure water. Kesembles ]STo. 2478, but
is precipitated from its solution by alcohol.
2481. Stephens' Patent Blue Ink.
Mr. Stephens? process. Take Prussian blue,
(either of commerce, or the pure chemical
combination of sesquioxide of iron with ferro-
cyanide of potassium), put it into any earthen
vessel, and pour upon it as much strong
hydrochloric, nitric, or sulphuric acid as will
cover it (if sulphuric acid is used it must bo
diluted with an equal bulk of water) ; after
standing 48 hours or more, add plenty of wa-
ter, stirring it thoroughly, to remove the salts
of iron; let it stand till all color has subsided,
then draw off the clear liquid with a syphon ;
add fresh water, and repeat the washing until
feiTocyauide of potassium ceases to produce a
blue precipitate, and the water drawn off
ceases to redden blue litmus paper, then filter
the product. This treatment extracts much
of the iron from the Prussian blue, and takes
away its liability to precipitate by longstand-
ing. Next add and carefully mix 1 part
oxalic acid to every 6 parts of Prussian blue;
then dilute, by degrees, with water sufficient
to make the blue ink any desired tint. The
influences of air and dampness have a ten-
dency to destroy the color of manuscript
written with black ink, while the same influ-
ences tend to deepen and increase the color
of the Prussian blue ink, This ink is only
affected by continued exposure to light, which
makes it fade in some degree; but it com-
pletely recovers its original depth of color by
being put in a dark place.
2482. Mohr's Blue "Writing Fluid.
Triturate to a perfectly smooth paste, 6 parts
pure Prussian blue, and 1 part oxalic acid,
with a little water; then dilute with sufficient
soft water to make it fluid.
2483. Bunge's Black "Writing Fluid.
This is a cheap and good ink, and resists ordi-
nary destructive agents well. It is perfectly
liquid, scarcely thickens by age, deposits no
sediment, and does not corrode steel pens.
Digest 4 pound logwood in fine'chips for 12
hours in 3 pints boiling water; then simmer
down gently to 1 quart, carefully avoiding
dust, grease, and smoke. "When cold, decant
the decoction, and dissolve in it by agitation
20 grains yellow chromate of potash ; it will
then be fit for use.
2484. Shellac Ink, or Coathupe's
"Writing Fluid. To 18 ounces water add 1
ounce powdered borax and 2 ounces bruised
shellac, and boil them iu a covered vessel,
stirring them occasionally till dissolved. Fil-
ter, when cold, through coarse filtering paper;
add 1 ounce mucilage; boil for a few minutes,
adding sufficient finely-powdered indigo and
lampblack to color it. Leave the mixture
for 2 or 3 hours for the coarser particles to
subside ; pour it off from the dregs, and bottle
it for use.
2485. Arnold's "Writing Fluid. Ar-
nold's writing fluid is a mixture of sulphate
of indigo and ordinary ink. It flows freely
from the pen and at last becomes very black.
On account of the large quantity of acid it
contains, it is very destructive to steel pens,
and for this evil we 'know of no cure.
2486. Blue Fluid for Making Blue-
Black "Writing Ink. Prussian blue in fine
powder, 1 ounce placed iu a common phial,
and concentrated hydrochloric acid, 2 ounces,
poured over it. Effervescence ensues, aud the
mixture soon assumes the consistence of a
thin paste. After 24 hours it may bo diluted
with 8 or 9 ounces of water, aud preserved in
INKS.
233
a glass bottle. The intensity of this color
may be lessened by water. It forms an excel-
lent blue writing fluid.
2487. Fine Writing Fluid. Dissolve
ceruleo- sulphate of potassa or ammonia (sol-
uble indigo) in hot water, and when cold
decant the clear. It is an intense blue, and
dries nearly black; is perfectly incorrosive,
and very permanent and easy flowing. It
may be thickened with gum water, or diluted
with pure rain water, as required.
2498. Beade's Patent Blue Writing
Fluid. Prepare a solution of iodide of iron,
from iodine, iron, and water ; add to the solu-
tion half as much iodine as first used. Pour
this solution into a semi-saturated solution
of ferroprussiate of potash, containing nearly
as much of the salt as the whole weight of
iodine. Collect the precipitate, wash it, and
finally dissolve it in water, to form the blue
ink. The solution from which the precipitate
is separated, evaporated to dryness, and the
residue fused, re-dissolved, and crystallized,
yields pure iodide of potassa.
2439. Indelible Writing Fluid. To
good gall ink, add a strong solution of fine
soluble Prussian blue in distilled water. This
addition makes the ink which was previously
proof against alkalies, equally proof against
acids, aud forms a writing fluid which cannot
be erased from paper by any common method
of fraudulent obliteration without the destruc-
tion of the paper. This ink writes greenish
blue, but afterwards turns intensely black.
2499. Precautions in Making Wri-
ting Fluids. All the preceding receipts for
writing fluids, under proper management,
produce excellent products. Care must be
taken in all cases that the ingredients be pure,
and unless this precaution is attended to, suc-
cess is doubtful. Either of the preceding blue
fluids may be used as indelible ink to mark
linen, and will be found very permanent, pro-
vided the part be first moistened with alum
water and dried.
2491. Gold Ink. Gold ink is prepared
in the following way : Genuine gold leaf is
rubbed with honey on a plate of agate or
ground glass by means of a flat pestle, until
the whole presents a uniform mass, in which
no distinct particles of gold can be recognized.
(See No. 2517.) This mass is carefully re-
move! into a vessel with water, which will
dissolve the honey, and leave the gold in an
extremely disintegrated state behind. The
water has, according to the size of the vessel,
to be removed twice or three times, when all
the saccharine matter will have been washed
away. The remaining gold is then mixed
with a sufficient quantity of a solution of gum-
arabic, shaken well, and is ready for use.
(Sse Nr). 2518.) The writing is to be rubbed,
after drying, with a flat piece of ivory, when
it will present the lustre of pure gold.
2492. Silver Ink. Silver ink is prepar-
e:l in the same way, from silver leaf, as the
g->lil in last receipt.
2493. Gold Labels on Glass Bottles.
Tn:3 finely divided gold, prepared as in No.
2491, is distributed in a solution of gum damar
in naphtha, and the writing is to be done with
this fluid by means of a brush. If the solu-
tion should become too thick in course of time,
a little naphtha is added and well shaken,
when the gold paint will be ready for use
again. The gum damar in drying will cover
the written lines with a kind of varnish that
will protect the gold from the action of acids
or alkalies.
2494. Purple Ink, or King of Purples.
Infuse 12 pounds campeachy logwood in 12
gallons water; provide a funnel at the bot-
tom of which a sponge has been placed ; pour
the infusion through a strainer made of coarse
flannel into the funnel, and thence on to 1
pound hydrate or acetate of copper (verdigris) ;
then add immediately 14 pounds alum ; and
for each 17 gallons of the liquid, add 4 pounds
gum-arabic or Senegal ; let these remain 3 or
4 days and a beautiful purple will be produced.
2495. Green Ink. Boil 2 parts acetate
of copper and 1 part bitartrate of potassa in 8
Earts water, until the solution is reduced to
alf the bulk ; filter through a cloth, and,
when cool, bottle.
2496. Green Ink. Dissolve 180 grains
bichromate of potassa in 1 fluid ounce of wa-
ter ; add, while warm, £ ounce spirit of wine ;
then decompose the mixture with concentra-
ted sulphuric acid, until it assumes a brown
color ; evaporate this liquor until its quantity
is reduced to one-half; dilute it with 2 ounces
distilled water ; filter it, add i ounce alcohol,
followed by a few drops strong sulphuric acid ;
it is now allowed to rest, and after a time it
assumes a beautiful green color. After the
addition of a small quantity of gum-arabic, it
is ready for use.
2497. Violet. Magenta, and Solferino
Ink. Inks of these, and such other bright
aniline colors may be made as follows : Mix
1 drachm of the proper aniline color with li
ounces alcohol (see No. 2578) in a glass or en-
ameled iron vessel ; let it stand for 3 hours.
Then add 13 ounces distilled water, and subject
the whole to a gentle heat until the alcohol has
evaporated, that is, until no odor of alcohol
is perceptible; then add 4 drachms gum-arabic
dissolved in 3 ounces water. Mix and strain.
As the aniline colors of commerce vary a
great deal in quality, the amount of dilution
must vary with the sample used, and the
shade determined by trial.
2498. Heusler's Bed Ink. Take 2
ounces best Brazil wood, ^ ounce pulverized
alum, k ounce crystals of bitartrate of potassa,
and 16 ounces distilled water ; boil down to
one half, and strain. Then dissolve in it i
ounce gum-arabic, and add 1£ drachms coch-
ineal dissolved in 1^ ounces alcohol of spe-
cific gravity .839.
2499. Brilliant Bed Ink. Brazil wood,
2 ounces ; muriate of tin, i drachm ; gum-
arabic, 1 drachm ; boil down in 32 ounces wa-
ter to one half, and strain.
2500. Good Bed Ink. Ground Brazil
wood, 8 ounces ; vinegar, 10 pints ; macerate
for 4 or 5 days ; boil in a tinned-copper vessel
to one half, then add roche alum, 8 ounces;
and gum, 3 ounces ; dissolve.
2501. Buchner's Carmine Ink. Pure
carmine, 12 grains ; water of ammonia, 3
ounces ; dissolve, then add powdered gum, 18
grains ; & drachm of powdered drop lake may
be substituted for the carmine where expense
is an object. This makes a superb carmine ink.
2502. Fine Bed Ink. Cochineal, in
powder, 1 ounce; hot water, ^ pint; digest,
234:
INKS.
and when quite cold, add spirit of hartshorn,
I pint ; or liquor of ammonia, 1 ounce ; dilute
with 3 or 4 ounces of water ; macerate for a
few days longer, then decant the clear. The
color of this is very fine.
2503. Redwood's Bed Ink. Guaran-
cine and liquor of ammonia, of each 1 ounce:
distilled water (cold), 1 pint; triturate to-
gether in a mortar, filter, and dissolve in the
solution gum-arabic i ounce. (Cooley.)
2504. To Restore Writing Effaced
with. Chlorine. Expose it to the vapor of
sulphuret of ammonia, or dip it into a solution
of the sulphuret. Or: Ferrocyanide of po-
tassa, 5 parts ; water, 85 parts. Dissolve, and
immerse the paper in the fluid, then slightly
acidulate the solution with sulphuric or hydro-
chloric acid. The method found to answer
best has been to spread the ferrocyanide thin
with a feather or a bit of stick cut to a blunt
point. Though the ferrocyanide should occa-
sion no sensible change of color, yet the mo-
ment the acid comes upon it, every trace of a
letter turns at once to a fine blue, which soon
acquires its full intensity, and is beyond com-
parison stronger than the color of the original
trace. If, then, the corner of a bit of blotting
paper be carefully and dexterously applied
near the letters, so as to imbibe the superflu-
ous liquor, the staining of the parchment may
be in a great measure avoided ; for it is this
superfluous liquor which, absorbing part of
the coloring matters from the letters, becomes
a dye to whatever it touches. Care must be
taken not to bring the blotting-paper in con-
tact with the letters, because the coloring
matter is soft whilst wet, and may easily be
rubbed off. The acid chiefly employed is the
muriatic; but both the sulphuric and nitric
succeed very well. They should be so far
diluted as not to be liable to corrode the
Sarchment, after which the degree of strength
oes not seem to be a matter of much nicety.
2505. To make New Writing Look
Old. Take 1 drachm saffron, and infuse it
into k pint ink, and warm it over a gentle fire,
and it will cause whatever is written with it
to turn yellow, and appear as if of many
years' standing.
2506. To Write on Greasy Paper or
Parchment. Put to a bullock's gall 1 hand-
ful of salt, and J pint vinegar, stir it until it is
mixed well ; when the paper or parchment is
greasy, put 1 drop of the gall into the ink,
and the difficulty will be instantly obviated.
2507. To Remove Ink Blotches from
Writing. "When ink blotches have been
formed over writing which it is desired to
decipher, we are advised to brush off" the
spot carefully with a weak solution of oxalic
acid by means of a camel's-hair pencil. In
this way layer after layer of the superincum-
bent ink will be removed, and finally the
writing itself will, in most cases, come to
view. This is especially possible where some
considerable interval has elapsed between the
two applications of ink. As soon as the let-
ters are visible the brushing should be con-
tinued for a time with clean water, so as to
arrest the tendency of the acid solution to
make a further change in the ink.
2508. Redwood's Indelible Marking
Ink. Dissolve 1 ounce nitrate of silver and
1£ ounces crystallized carbonate of soda in
separate portions of distilled water, and mix
the solutions; collect the resulting precipitate
on a filter, wash it thoroughly with distilled
water, and introduce it, while still moist, into
a wedgwood-ware mortar; add 8 scruples
tartaric acid, and triturate the whole until ef-
fervescence has ceased ; next add sufficient
ammonia to dissolve the tartrate of silver;
mix in 4 fluid drachms archil, 4 drachms
white sugar, and 12 drachms finely-powdered
gum-arabic; then add sufficient distilled water
to make 6 ounces of the mixture. This ink
fulfills all the conditions that a marking ink
should possess : It flows freely from the pen
without running or blotting ; it does not re-
quire a very stronger long continued heat to
develop it; when developed it is perfectly
black ; and it does not injure the texture of the
finest fabric.
2509. Indelible Ink. The linen is first
moistened with a fluid consisting of a mix-
ture of 2 parts carbonate of soda in crystals,
2 parts gum-arabic, 8 parts water, and then
dried. When quite dry, it is rubbed with a
glass or smooth pebble to render it as smooth
as possible, so that it may be easier to write
upon. The composition of the ink itself is as
follows : If parts nitrate of silver, 16 parts
distilled water, 2 parts gum-arabic, and £ part
sap green. The nitrate of silver is first dis-
solved in the distilled water, and the gum-ara-
bic and sap green are subsquently added. It
is necessary to write with a quill peri, all me-
tallic pens except gold ones decomposing the
ink. It is a good plan to trace the letters on
the linen with a pencil before writing them.
This and the four following receipts are by
Dr. Eeiman, who says that they have all been
thoroughly well tried, and found effectual.
2510. Fine Marking Ink. Marking
linen is most conveniently effected by using
a small stiff brush and a small copper plate
with perforations corresponding to the letters
required. This stencil plate is laid upon the
linen, and the ink is rubbed into the cut-out
spaces with the brush. The following ink is
of service for marking linen with a stencil
plate : 2 parts nitrate of silver, 4 parts dis-
tilled water, 2£ parts gum-arabic, 3 parts
carbonate of soda crystals, 5 parts liquid am-
monia. The best way to prepare the ink is to
first dissolve the nitrate of silver in the liquid
ammonia, and the gum-arabic and soda in the
distilled water. The two solutions are then
mixed together and slightly warmed, when
the whole mixture becomes brown. A few
drops of a solution of magenta makes the ink
somewhat more distinct. When this method
is used, the linen requires no previous pre-
paration.
2511. Aniline Marking Ink. Dissolve
8-J- grains bichloride of copper in 30 grains
distilled water, then add 10 grains common
salt, and 9-J- grains liquid ammonia. A solu-
tion of. 30 grains hydrochlorate of aniline in
20 grains distilled water is then added to 20
grains of a solution of gum-arabic (contain-
ing 2 parts water, 1 part gum-arabic)/ and
lastly 10 grains of glycerine. 4 parts of the
aniline solution thus prepared are mixed with
1 part of the copper solution. The liquid
which results has a green appearance, and
may be at once employed for marking linen,
since it invariably becomes black after a few
INKS.
235
days. A steel pen may be employed as well
as a quill. If it is desirable not to wait so
long for the appearance of the black color, a
hot iron may be passed over the writing when
the ink is dry, or the linen may be held over
the flame of a spirit lamp, or over a hot plate,
or hot water, when the black tint will readily
appear. It is a good plan to put the linen,
when marked, into a tepid solution of soap,
which has the effect of bringing out a fine
bluish tint. The ink must be so limpid that
it is able to permeate the tissue of the linen,
so that the marks appear on both sides. It is
advisable to mix the solutions together, only
when the ink has to be used. It is perfectly
indelible, and so easy to write with that the
finest devices may be drawn with it. This
ink has the advantage of being cheaper than
the ink prepared from nitrate of silver. It
has also another advantage over the latter
salt, viz. : that it is chemically indelible.
2512. Purple Marking Ink. A purple
marking ink can be prepared by mixing 1 part
bichloride of platinum with 16 parts distilled
water. The place where the letters have to be
written must be moistened with a solution of
3 parts carbonate of soda, 3 parts gum-arabic,
and 12 parts water. The spot is then dried
and made smooth. After the letters have
been written with the platinum ink and be-
come dry, the linen is moistened with a solu-
tion of 1 part chloride of tin in 4 parts distilled
water, when an intense and beautiful purple-
red color makes its appearance.
2513. Cheap Brown Marking Ink.
A very cheap brown marking ink may be pre-
pared from 4 parts acetate of manganese dis-
solved in 12 parts water. The place on the
linen where the marks have to be made must
be previously moistened with the following
solution : 1 part yellow prussiate of potash,
h part gum-arabic, 3 parts water. The linen,
having been saturated with the above solution,
is dried, and afterwards marked with the
manganese solution. On the letters becoming
dry, the following solution is spread over the
spot with a brush : 4 parts carbonate of pot-
ash, 10 parts water. The letters then become
brown, and their color cannot be removed by
alkalies, nor by acids, with the exception of
dilute hydrochloric acid.
2514. Carbon Ink. Genuine Indian ink
rubbed down with good black ink until it will
flow easily from a pen. This ink resists chlor-
ine, and oxalic acid.
2515. Indian or Chinese Ink. The
pure article can only be obtained from China.
A good imitation may be made with ivory
black, ground to an impalpable powder, made
into a paste with weak gum-arabic water,
perfumed with a few drops of essence of niusk
and half as much essence of ambergris, and
then formed into cakes. (See No. 2716.)
2516. Perpetual Ink for Tombstones,
&C. Equal parts of Trinidad asphaltum and
oil of turpentine. Use in a melted state to
fill in the letters and devices on tombstones, &c.
"Without actual violence it will last as long as
the stone.
2517. To Pulverize Gold and Silver
Leaf. This is effected by grinding upon a
porphyry slab, with a muller, gold or silver'
leaves with white honey, until they are re-
duced to the finest possible state of division.
Then wash the honey thoroughly from the
powdered metal and mix with gum water.
(Sec also No. 25.)
2518. Liquid Gold, for Vellum, &c.
Take gold leaf and grind it with gum water;
then add a small quantity of bichloride of
mercury, and bottle for use.
2519. Liquid Silver, for Vellum, &c.
Take silver leaf and grind it with gurn- water
or glaire of egg.
2520. Copying Ink. The virtue of
copying ink consists in its non-drying pro-
perty. This property may be given to any
ordinary ink by the addition of sugar. Lately,
however, glycerine has b'een substituted for
sugar, and is decidedly to be preferred. A
good copying ink may be made from common
violet writing ink, by the addition of 6 parts
glycerine to 8 parts of the ink. Using only
5 parts glycerine to 8 of the ink, it will copy
well in fifteen minutes after it has been used.
"With fine white copying paper the ink will
copy well without the use of a press.
2521. Ink for Marking Packages.
Take lampblack and mix thoroughly with suf-
ficient turpentine to make it thin enough to
flow from the brush. Powdered ultramarine,
instead of lampblack, makes a fine blue mark-
ing mixture for the same purpose.
2522. Ink for Marking Packages.
An excellent and very cheap ink is made by
mixing J ounce bichloride of potassa and 4
ounces extract of logwood in a stone jar or
demijohn, with 2 gallons of hot water. Shake
well and let it stand for about 2 weeks,
shaking occasionally.
2523. Permanent Ink for Writing
in Relief on Zinc. Bichloride of platinum,
dry, 1 part; gum-arabic, 1 part; distilled wa-
ter, 10 parts. The letters traced upon zinc
with this solution turn black immediately.
The black characters resist the action of weak
acids, of rain, or of the elements in general,
and the liquid is thus adapted for marking
signs, labels, or tags which are liable to ex-
posure. To bring out the letters in relief,
immerse the zinc tag in a weak acid for a few
moments. The writing is not attacked while
the metal is dissolved away.
2524. Ink for Zinc Labels. Take 1
drachm of verdigris, 1 drachm sal ammoniac
powder, and £ drachm lampblack, and mix
them with 10 drachms water ; and this will
form an indelible ink for writing on zinc.
2525. To Write on Silver with a
Black that will Never Go Off. Take
burnt lead and pulverize it. Incorporate it
next with sulphur and vinegar, to the consist-
ency of a paint, and write with it on any
silver plate. Let it dry, then present it to
the fire so as to heat the work a little, and it
is completed.
2526. Indestructible Inks. Employed
for writing the labels on bottles containing
strong acids and alkaline solutions. They are
capable of resisting the action of iodine,
chlorine, alkaline lyes and acids, as well as
operations of dyeing and bleaching, besides
being an excellent and cheap material for
marking linen, as nothing will remove them
without destroying the fabric.
2527. Hausmann's Indestructible
Ink. Mix 1 part genuine Trinidad asphaltum
with 4 parts oil of turpentine ; color with a
236
INKS.
sufficiency of plumbago, for black, or vermilion
for red ink.
2528. Close's Indestructible Ink.
Mix 25 grains powdered cobalt and '200 grains
oil of lavender by a gentle heat ; color with 3
grains lampblack and 1 grain indigo, both in
fine powder. If a red color is required, omit
the lampblack and indigo and add sufficient
vermilion to make the mixture a good color.
2529. Indestructible "Writing Ink.
Shellac, 4 parts ; borax, 2 parts ; soft water,
36 parts ; boil in a close vessel till dissolved ;
then filter, and take of gum-arabic, 2 parts ;
soft water, 4 parts. Dissolve, and mix the
two solutions together, and boil for 5 minutes
as before, occasionally stirring to promote
their union ; when cold, add a sufficient quan-
tity of finely powdered indigo and lampblack
to color ; lastly, let it stand for 2 or 3 hours,
until the coarser powder has subsided, and
bottle for use. Use this fluid with a clean
pen, and keep it in glass or earthen inkstands,
as many substances will decompose it while
in the liquid state. "When dry it will resist
the action of water, oil, turpentine, alcohol,
diluted sulphuric acid, diluted hydrochloric
acid, oxalic acid, chlorine, and the caustic
alkalies and alkaline earths.
2530. Simple Carbon Ink. Dissolve
30 grains of sugar in 30 grains of water, to
which add a few drops of concentrated sul-
phuric acid. Upon heating this mixture the
sugar becomes carbonized by the acid, and
when applied to the paper it leaves a coating
of carbon which cannot be washed off. This
stain is rendered more perfect by the decom-
posing action of the ink itself upon the paper,
and thus resists the action of chemical agents.
2531. Drawing Ink. A very black
and indelible drawing ink may be made by
dissolving shellac in a hot water solution of
borax, and rubbing up in this solution a fine
quality of Indian ink. After using, dip the
drawing pen in alcohol, and wipe dry to keep
it clean and bright. (See No. 2514.)
2532. Permanent Ink for Use with
Stamps or Type. Mix equal parts black
oxide of manganese and hydrate of potash,
heat to redness, and rub with an equal quan-
tity of smooth white clay into a paste, water
being added for the purpose. Or : Sulphate
of manganese, 2 drachms; lampblack, 1
drachm ; powdered loaf sugar, 4 drachms ;
rubbed into paste with water. After stamp-
ing, dry the linen and wash well in water.
2533. Sympathetic, or Invisible Inks,
for Secret Writing. These are colorless
inks which require the aid of heat or some
other agency to develop the characters written
with them. Their use has been rendered
specially practical since the recent introduc-
tion of the postal correspondence cards in
England and elsewhere. By previous ar-
rangement between correspondents, the re-
ceiver of a card only needs some visible sign
on the card to identify the writer or sender ;
this will at once suggest the means to be em-
ployed to develop the particular ink the re-
ceiver's correspondent has agreed to use.
2534. Black Sympathetic Inks.
"Writing with a solution of sugar of lead will
be turned black by moistening the paper with
sulphide of potassium.
If nitrate of silver be used, the writing will
become black by dipping the paper in a solu-
tion of ammonia.
Chloride of mercury will turn black when
wetted with chloride of tin.
A weak infusion of galls is turned black by
sulphate of iron (copperas).
Reversing the above, writing with copperas
turns black by moistening with infusion of
galls.
2535. Blue Sympathetic Inks.
"Writing with copperas turns blue if wetted
with a solution of prussiate of potassa.
Nitrate of cobalt turns blue on being wetted
with a weak solution of oxalic acid.
Bice water or a solution of boiled starch
turns blue in a solution of iodine in weak
spirit.
2536. Brown Sympathetic Ink. A
diluted solution of nitrate of silver turns
brown by exposure to the sunlight.
2537. Yellow Sympathetic Ink.
Chloride of antimony, used as the ink, will be-
come yellow by moistening with a decoction
of galls.
2538. Green Sympathetic Ink. Ar-
seniate of copper, washed over with nitrate
of copper, turns a beautiful green.
2539. Purple Sympathetic Ink.
Purple is produced by using chloride of gold,
and soaking in chloride of tin.
2540. Sympathetic Inks Developed
by Heat. There are a number of colorless
substances that may be used as inks, which
are developed by the application of heat only.
Sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac, mixed
in equal parts, will become yellow if exposed
to the fire.
Onion juice has the same property as the
above mixture.
Lemon juice, a very weak solution of either
aquafortis, oil of vitriol, common salt, 'or salt-
petre, will turn yellow or brown on exposure
to the fire.
A weak solution of chloride of cobalt and
chloride of nickel is turned a beautiful green
by heat.
A solution of chloride or nitro-muriate of
cobalt, turns green when heated, and disap-
pears again on cooling.
A dilute solution of chloride of copper be-
comes a fine yellow at a moderate heat, and
disappears on cooling.
A solution of acetate of cobalt, with a little
nitrate added to it, turns rose-colored by heat,
and disappears again when cold.
These last, which disappear again on cool-
ing, are the best sympathetic inks for pur-
poses of correspondence, as the others are
more or less indelible when once developed.
2541 . Hoe's Composition for Printing
Ink Hollers. This consists of glue and mo-
lasses, the proportions varying from 8 pounds
of glue in summer to 4 pounds in winter, for
each gallon of molasses. The glue should
bo placed for -J an hour in a bucket, covered
with water, then pour the water off and allow
the glue to soften. Put it into a kettle and
heat it until thoroughly melted ; if too thick,
a little water may be added. Lastly, the mo-
lasses is stirred in and well mixed with the
glue. "When properly prepared, an hour's
boiling will be sufficient, as too much boiling
is apt to candy the molasses. Pour into a
clean mould well oiled with a swab.
ANILINE COLORS.
237
2542. To Clean Ink Hollers. Roller
should not be washed immediately after use,
as they will become dry and skinny, but
they may be washed i hour before using again.
In cleaning a new roller, a little oil rubbed
over it will loosen the ink, and it should be
scraped clean with the back of a knife ; it
should be cleaned this way for about a week,
when lye may be used. N"ew rollers are
often spoiled by washing too soon with lye.
2543. Black Printing Ink. Boil
gallons old clear linseed oil to the consistence
of a thick varnish ; whilst hot, add to it, dur-
ing constant stirring, first 6 pounds powdered
resin, and next If pounds dry brown soap
shavings ; then mix in it 2J- ounces indigo
blue, 2£ ounces Paris blue, and 5 pounds best
lampblack. After standing for a week it
should be ground.
2544. Black or Colored Printing Ink.
Balsam copaiba, 9 ounces ; lampblack, 3 oun-
ces; Paris blue, 1J- ounces; Indian red, |
ounoo ; dry resin soap, 3 ounces. These will
produce a superior black ink. By employing
white soap instead of yellow, and a sufficiency
of some coloring pigment instead of the black,
blue, and red mixture, a good colored ink will
be obtained.
2545. New Ink for Printers. A new
ink for printers has been invented by Professor
Artus, and Mr. Fleckstein, a master-printer
at Lichtenhain, which ink is said to be a com-
plete success. The composition of it is as
follows: Tenetian turpentine, 4£ ounces;
fluid soap, 5 ounces; rectified oleine, 2 ounces;
burnt soot, 3 ounces ; Paris blue (ferrocyanic
acid), -J ounce; oxalic acid, £ ounce; distilled
water, i ounce. The mixing process of this
new, beautiful, and cheap ink is described as
follows : Gradually warm the turpentine and
the oleine together ; put the soap on a marble
plate, and gradually add, continually rubbing,
the mixture of turpentine and oleine ; when
well mixed, add the burnt soot, which must
first be well powdered and sifted; then add the
Paris blue, dissolved in the oxalic acid, con-
tinually rubbing the composition on the stone,
the Paris blue and the oxalic acid having
been mixed before with water in the above
given proportions. A solution of soda in
water is sufficient to thoroughly cleanse the
type.
2546. Indelible Printing Ink. Mix 1
pound varnish (such as is used for ordinary
printing ink), 1 pound black sulphuret of
mercury, 1 ounce nitrate of silver, 1 ounce
sulphate of iron, 2 table-spoonfuls lampblack.
Thoroughly grind together, adding enough
turpentine to reduce to the requisite consist-
ency.
2547. Lithographic Ink. Grind to-
gether 8 parts mastich, in tears, and 12 parts
shellac ; dissolve carefully by heat in 1 part
Venice turpentine ; after the mixture is taken
from the fire, mix in 16 parts wax and 6 parts
tallow; then add, by stirring, 6 parts hard tal-
low soap in shavings, and finally incorporate
in the mass 4 parts lampblack. Heat and stir
until thoroughly mixed; let it cool a little, and
pour it out on tables, and when cold, cut into
square rods.
2548. Lithographic Transfer Ink.
Melt together 8 parts white wax and 2 parts
white soap ; and, before they become hot
enough to take fire, stir in by degrees suffi-
cient lampblack to make the mixture black ;
then allow the whole to burn for 30 seconds ;
when the flame is extinguished, add, a little
at a time, 2 parts shellac, stirring it in con-
stantly ; put the vessel on the fire again until
the mass is kindled, or nearly so. Put out the
flame and allow it to cool a little, and then run
it into the moulds. Ink thus made will make
as fine or coarse lines as are desired, and its
traces will remain unchanged for years before
being transferred. When suet enters into the
composition of lithographic crayons, it does
not keep long, and requires immediate trans-
ferring to the stone.
2549. Lithographic Ink. M. Lasteyrie
states that, after having tried a great many
combinations, he gives the preference to the
following: — Dry tallow soap, mastich in tears,
and common soda in fine powder, of each 30
parts; shellac, 150 parts; lampblack, 12 parts;
mix as last. Used for writing on lithographic
stones.
2550. To Test the Quality of Litho-
graphic Ink. Lithographic ink of good
quality ought to be susceptible of forming an
emulsion so attenuated that it may appear to
be dissolved when rubbed upon a hard body
in distilled or river water. It should be flow-
ing in the pen, not spreading on the stone ;
capable of forming delicate traces, and very
black, to show its delineations. The most es-
sential quality of the ink is to sink well 'into
the stone, so as to reproduce the most delicate
outlines of the drawing, and to afford a great
many impressions. It must, therefore, be
able to resist the acid with which the stone is
moistened in the preparation, without letting
any of its greasy matter escape.
2551. Durable Autographic Ink.
"White wax, 8 ounces ; and white soap, 2 to 3
ounces; melt; when well combined add lamp-
black, 1 ounce; mix well, and heat it strongly;
then add shellac, 2 ounces; again heat it
strongly ; stir well together, cool a little, and
pour it out. With this ink lines may be
drawn of the finest to the fullest class with-
out danger of its spreading, and the copy may
be kept for years before being transferred.
This mk is employed for writing on litho-
graphic paper, and is prepared for use by rub-
bing down with a little water in a saucer, in
the same way as common water-color cakes
or Indian ink. In winter this should be done
near a fire, or the saucer should be placed over
a basin containing a little warm water. It
may then be used with either a steel pen or a
camel's-hair pencil.
Aniline Colors. Aniline is a
JC\_ liquid of a color varying from yellow to
dark brown. The commercial article is never
chemically pure, being a mixture of pure ani-
line, toluidine, and odorine. Its boiling point
ranges from 356° to 482° Fahr. If aniline boils
at a lower temperature than 356°, it contains
too much /odorine, and is, therefore, of poor
quality. It is obtained by conversion from
uitro-benzole, a preparation of the benzole ob-
tained from coal tar (not from petroleum). In
preparing nitro-benzole on a large scale, 12
238
ANILINE COLORS.
parts benzole are mixed with 13 parts fuming
nitric acid, and 8 parts oil of vitriol, in a cast
iron apparatus. The character of the product
depends greatly on the purity of the benzole,
and also on the management of the reaction.
The conversion of nitro-benzole into aniline is,
by Be"champs' process, performed in iron tanks,
heated by steam, and provided with stirrers,
and a still-head to collect the distillates. The
tank or still is charged with 100 parts nitro-
benzole, 150 clean wrought iron filings, 100
water, and 150 acetic acid; when these are
mixed spontaneous heat is evolved, which
causes some of the liquid to pass into the con-
densers, whence it is returned to the tank.
As the heat is not sufficient for the complete
conversion of the nitro-benzole, steam is intro-
duced after a time, and the stirring and steam-
ing is continued until no more nitro-benzole
appears in the distilled vapor. At this point
the temperature is increased, and, if necessary,
aided by direct fire, to cause complete distilla-
tion of the aniline which has formed, and which
passes off with water, and separates from it on
standing, as the heavier stratum. The aniline
used for the various colors is taken of different
composition and boiling-point. A. W. Hof-
mann has shown that a mixture of an equiva-
lent of aniline and two of toluidine produces
the largest yield of rosaniline (fuchsine). The
substance used for this manufacture begins to
boil at about 347°, and as the heat increases to
390° 80 per cent, will have distilled over.
Aniline blue and purple require an oil which
begins to boil at 374°, and at 392° haslostonly
60 per cent. Evidently with these properties
it contains less aniline than the preceding one.
The changes which these bases undergo when
converted into dyes or compounds of rosani-
line, are brought about by the partial destruc-
tion of a portion of them.
2553. Rosaniline, or Fuchsine. The
principal methods for the manufacture of fuch-
sine employ arsenic acid, the reaction being
brought about in a cast iron still with mova-
ble head, connected with a condenser, and
provided with a manhole, and also a place for
a thermometer. This still sits in a jacket con-
taining a hot bath of palm-oil, which keeps it
at a temperature of from 320° to 356° Fahr. A
charge consists of 100 parts aniline and 200
parts arsenic acid, and the reaction is ordina-
rily completed in about 6 hours, sometimes in
5, but at others only in 12 hours, during which
time the temperature is carefully regulated.
Assays are taken from time to time, and the
completion of the process is known by the
pure bronze color of the sample. The fused
mass is transferred to a tank, in which, after
cooling, it is broken up, and at once treated
with water and steam. The base fuchsine
(rosaniline) dissolves, leaving behind the resin-
ous products of the reaction ; the arsenic acid
is separated by the addition of milk of lime.
The filtered solution, after proper concentration,
deposits, on cooling, fine crystals of fuchsine,
as do also the first mother liquors. An infe-
rior quality of fuchsine is obtained by adding a
portion of salt, varying in quantity.
2554. Aniline Blue. Aniline blue re-
sults from various processes. The one most
commonly used at present is that of Girard and
De Laire, made by heating fuchsine with fluid
aniline. The original process produced a blue
with a reddish tinge ; but by the addition of
some organic substances, acetic acid, and me-
thylic alcohol, pure blue is obtained. It is dis-
tinguished from all other blues by not appear-
ing green in candle light. The various
shades of purple to blue and violet are made
from fuchsine by Hofmann's method (see No.
2608), heating 1 part fuchsine and 2 iodide of
ethyl with 2 parts alcohol in a closed vessel at
212° for variable lengths of time ; the blue re-
sulting from longest exposure.
2555. Aniline Green. Aniline green is
produced from a solution of sulphate of rosani-
line in dilute sulphuric acid and some alde-
hyde, which is heated till its color has changed
to dark green. Addition of a solution of hy-
posulphite of soda separates the color.
2556. Aniline Green. Several of the
aniline greens occurring in the market are apt
to undergo spontaneous destruction, some-
times in less than a day. The following is a
formula which any one may make : 4 parts of
pure fuchsine or rosaniline are dissolved in 6
parts water and 16 parts aldehyde (see next
receipt), and are heated at 212° Fahr., until a
drop of the mixture imparts to water acidula-
ted slightly with sulphuric acid a clear blue
color, when it is ready to be poured into aboil-
ing solution of hyposulphite of soda, which is
being stirred. A fine green precipitate forms,
and a grayish one, which latter must be kept
separate. The green is mordanted principally
with acetate of alumina.
2557. To Prepare Aldehyde. Alde-
hyde is made by filling a tubulated glass re-
tort, altogether to one-third full, with 32 parts
absolute alcohol, 30 parts bichromate of po-
tassa, and, without previous cooling, a mixture
of 35 parts oil of vitriol, and 30 of water, in small
portions, through a safety-tube in tbe tubus.
After one-half of the latter has been intro-
duced, the rnixture commences to boil and al-
dehyde begins to distill over, the remainder of
the said mixture being added through the
tubulus as required. No further purification
is needed.
2558. To Make Aniline Colors Solu-
ble in Water. The aniline colors insoluble
in water may, according to Dr. Zinsman, be
rendered soluble in the following way: — A
solution of gelatine in acetic acid of about the
consistence of syrup is first made, and the
aniline color in fine powder is gradually added,
stirring all the time so as to obtain a homo-
geneous paste. The mixture is then to be heat-
ed over a water-bath to the temperature of
boiling water, and kept at that heat for some
time. Colors in this state, if a very clear gel-
atine is employed, will be applicable to many
decorative purposes. Bookbinders, paper-
stainers, and printers will find them useful.
They may also, it is said, be used to color con-
fectionery and soaps. Before they are used
for confectionery, however, it will be well to
make sure that no arsenic is present.
2559. Injurious Effects of Impure
Alcohol upon Aniline Colors. Dr. Till-
manns has examined several varieties of al-
cohol, and tested the effects upon aniline
colors. -The most sensitive among these, for
impure alcohol, is aniline purple (phenyl-
rosaniline). It appears that cmpyreumatic
substances, aldehyde, the peculiar fusel oils due
to the substances used in the manufacture of
ANILINE COLORS.
239
the alcohol, affect the aniline colors when dis-
solved in such alcohols and boiled therewith.
The best test for the purity of an alcohol is to
dissolve in it 1 per cent, of perfectly pure
caustic potassa, and to heat the solution; it
should only acquire a bright yellow color.
Another test is to dissolve 1 part of the aniline
Eurple alluded to in 50 parts of the alcohol to
e tested, and to heat the fluid for some time.
If, after half an hour's heating, no change is
observed, the quality of the alcohol is good;
but if the latter is not pure enough, the mix-
ture soon becomes turbid, and assumes a red
color. Another test is to make two solution
of the color of the same strength (1 in 50), one
with alcohol of known purity, and the other
with the suspected alcohol, and then compare
the intensity and shade of the solutions. Al-
dehyde is often present in alcohol, especially
if it has been purified by means of charcoal.
2560. To Test the Quality of Aniline
Colors. A good and practical way of testing
the merits of aniline colors is to have, and
keep on hand, a standard and measure of com-
parison, a sample whose value and coloring
power hag been ascertained by actual practice.
If a new supply of dye stuff is to be tested,
weigh out equal quantities of the standard col-
oring matter and of the one to be tested (say
10 to 30 grains); dissolve them, using the
same quantity of alcohol and water, in vessels
of as nearly as possible equal size; intro-
duce in each an equal quantity of white wool ;
place them on a water bath; raise the
temperature gradually, and after sufficient
time has elapsed, take the two pieces out, dry
them carefully, and compare them. That
which has been dyed with the best dye, will,
of course, show the fullest, brightest, and
clearest color. Instead of testing on skeins of
wool, Mr. Shuttleworth recommends small
squares of white merino or cashmere, as af-
fording a more even surface, and a greater
mass of color. A known weight of the dye
should be dissolved in alcohol and added to
the bath of warm water, with the necessary
mordants. A square of cloth of known weight
— say 10 grains — is immersed in the bath, and,
after a stated time, removed. The strength
and shade of the color can thus be compared
with previous samples, dyed under like condi-
tions. It is a good plan to paste these squares,
by one edge, in a blank book, noting anything
worthy of remark on the margin. The colors
are thus preserved from the action of the light,
and will be found very useful for reference.
2561. Test for Sugar in Aniline
Dyes. Aniline blue and aniline green have
been found adulterated with a considerable
quantity of sugar. Mr. Joly, of Brussels, has
also found this to be the case with red aniline
colors, such as fuchsine, rubine, &c., the adul-
teration amounting in some cases to as much
as 50 per cent. The amount of sugar present
can be ascertained by treating a sample of the
suspected dye with absolute alcohol ; or, still
better, with a mixture of alcohol and ether ;
the sugar will remain undissolved.
2562. To Remove Sugar from Ani-
line Dyes. If it be found by the test given
in No. 2561, that an aniline color has been
adulterated with sugar, this may be removed
by repeatedly washing the color with cold
water, which will dissolve the sugar.
2563. General Directions for the TJse
of Aniline Dyes. It is impossible to u;.:c
any dye, successfully, without due regard to
cleanliness. This is, perhaps, more particu-
larly the case with the anilines. The slightest
trace of a foreign substance will often mate-
rially alter the shade. Earthen or enameled
vessels should be used whenever practicable.
Iron is generally to be avoided, if for no other
reason than that it is difficult to say when it
is really clean. Woolen and silken goods,
before being dyed, should be thoroughly
washed in soap and water, and then carefully
rinsed in clean rain water. Cotton requires a
previous mordanting before it can be dyed
with anilines, as vegetable fibre possesses no
affinity for the colors. The preparation gen-
erally consists in treatment by sumac, or
stannate of soda, and subsequently by sul-
phuric acid ; special directions will be given
in those cases requiring particular treatment.
Old fabrics which were dyed before, may be
freed from color by previous boiling for an
hour in strong soapsuds. The spirit used
should be pure, and especially free from alde-
hyde ; methyl spirit does not appear to injure
some of the dyes: Spirit containing shellac
turns roseiue of a bluish color.
2564. To Distinguish Aniline from
Other Dyes. Aniline colors, for dyeing pur-
poses, are now used to such an extent through-
out the country as almost to exclude all others,
on account of their brilliancy and cheapness.
They are, however, liable to lose in appearance
by bright sunlight, and in lustre by the arti-
ficial light of gas or candles. It is, therefore,
desirable to have a ready means by which
they can be recognized. This is all the more
necessary, as arsenic acid is generally em-
ployed in their preparation ; and a cloth that
has been dyed with an aniline color containing
it may have absorbed a considerable quantity
of that dangerous article. The readiest way
for its detection is to boil the flannel, or what-
ever other cloth it may be, with a solution of
caustic soda or potassa, and, after filtering
the fluid from the residue, neutralizing it with
hydrochloric acid. If the cloth has been
dyed with an aniline color, the fluid will show
a coloration. Most of the aniline dyes may
also be extracted by boiling alcohol, which
process, perhaps, can be performed in less
time than the other.
2565. To Remove Aniline Colors.
There are various ways proposed to remove
aniline colors, the following being the simplest
and most practical. Goods dyed with aniline
colors may easily be rendered white by the
use of zinc gray; the metallic zinc contained
in this powder reduces the colors, forming
soluble colorless products. To apply the
principle, triturate 100 grains zinc gray with
50 grains mucilage marking 20° Baurn6, until
the mixture is homogeneous ; incorporate
with this 20 grains of a solution of hyposul-
phite of soda marking 20° Baum6, apply this
mixture directly to the goods, let it dry and
vaporize. After this operation it is best to
wash the goods with water slightly acidulated
with hydrochloric acid. Cotton goods may
be bleached by chlorine or bleaching liquor,
but this is not applicable to other than cotton
fabrics.
Another simple method consists in digest-
ANILINE COLOES
ing the fabrics for a sufficient length of time
in 90 per cent, alcohol, which usually com-
pletes the decolorization in a short space of
time. The same alcohol can be used several
times in succession, and can afterward be puri-
fied by rectification or redistillation, so as to
involve but little loss. The work is best done
in a well-covered copper kettle, which is to be
set in boiling water. A little hydrochloric
acid may be added if the articles are not too
delicate, thereby increasing the solubility of
the aniline colors.
If all other methods fail, cyanide of po-
tassium is absolutely certain. A stone vessel
is to be selected, in which a small quantity of
cyanide of potassium is to be introduced, and
solved until the solution shows 2° Bamn6 ;
for the wool the mordanting bath should be
at a boiling heat, and the goods should also
be placed in a warm bath of tannin 90° Fahr.
for half an hour. In dyeing, a hot solution of
the color must be used, to which should be
added, in the case of the cotton, some chloride
of zinc, and, in the case of the wool, a certain
amount of tannin solution.
2569.
Cotton.
To Dye Aniline Opal Blue on
To mordant the aniline color known
as opal blue upon cotton it is recommended
to rinse the goods, after bleaching, in a dilute
solution of soda crystals, to neutralize the
acid of bleaching, then to pass them into a
hot water poured upon it, so as to make a so-
lution of 1° to 1° Baume. The whole is to
be stirred well with a long and strong glass 2
hot bath of soap, in which oil exists in emul-
"
sion in these proportions: "Water, 100 liters (211
pints); soap, 8 kilos (21£ pounds troy); oil,
"
rod, and the operation conducted in the open
air, so that no harm may result from the con-
densation of the vapor. The fabric in question,
previously well cleaned, is now placed in the
vessel, and pushed under the liquid with the
glass rod, and the top of the vessel laid on.
It is advisable to keep the solution warm, by
immersing the stone vessel in a wooden tub
properly supplied with steam or hot water.
kilos (5£ pounds troy). "Wring them out,
dry, and pass them into a solution of acetate
of alumina of about 4° or 5° Baum6, wring
out, dry, and rinse in hot water. Finally dye
in a solution of opal blue to which acetic acid
has been added. The temperature of the dye
bath should be 75° to 90° Fahr. Binse and
dry.
2570. Difficulty in Dyeing Cotton with
Aniline. This difficulty consists in the ir-
After a short time the lid should be removed [ regularity of intensity of color when the ani-
by taking it off at the end of a long handle,
allowing the vapors to pass off before the
operator comes near. By means of the glass
rod the cloth is to be lifted, and if not entirely
white, is to be replaced and the process con-
line colors are applied. This effect is attri-
buted to the unequal oxidation of the tin salts
applied before dipping the goods into the dye
bath ; in using these colors, avoid the use of
the tin salts, which have little or no beneficial
tinned still longer. "When finished the cloth | effect on the results in any case ; and dip the
is to be transferred by means of the glass rod
to a large vessel containing hot water, and
stirred around for a time, then removed and
rinsed off. The solution of the cyanide of
Eotassium can be used several times without
>sing its power. Cyanide of potassium is a
deadly poison ; contact with any sore or cut
is extremely dangerous, and inhaling its va-
por is sudden death.
2566. To Remove Stains of Aniline
from the Hands. The best way to remove
such stains from the hands is to either wash
them with strong alcohol, or what perhaps is
more effectual, to wash them with a little
bleaching powder, and finally with alcohol.
2567. Phosphate of Lime as a Mor-
dant. A rather thick syrupy solution of phos-
phate of lime (bone-ash) in hydrochloric acid
having been recently recommended as a mor-
dant to be used after a previous sumaching
of the goods, Dr. Reimann states that, accord-
ing to his researches, the phosphate of lime
solution is altogether superfluous for aniline
dyes, since a sumaching with 4 pounds
sumach to 20 pounds cotton is of itself a
sufficient mordanting to fix aniline colors ex-
cellently. The application of the phosphate
of lime solution as a mordant for cochineal
colors upon cotton he also considers as quite
New Mordant Applicable to
useless.
2568.
Aniline Colors. For this purpose the oxide
of zinc, in accordance with a patent taken out
in France by MM. Biot and Thisau, may be
used for mordanting aniline blue upon cotton,
or the iodine green upon wool. The mordant-
ing is effected by simply immersing the goods
for some hours in a bath of cold water, in
which chloride or acetate of zinc has been dis-
goods into the dye bath, after treating with
infusion of nut-galls or sumach. If tin must
be used, the best salt of that metal is the bi-
chloride.
2571. Aniline Black. "When a salt of
aniline in solution is exposed to the action
of certain oxydizers, as salts of copper,
chlorate, and bichromate of potassa, it yields
a black dye, of such depth that ordinary gall
or madder blacks appear gray or green in
comparison. The fastness of this color, its
resistance to the action of acids, alkalies,
soaps, and sunlight, render it of great import-
ance to manufacturers, and make it one of
the great achievements of late years.
2572. Aniline Black for Dyeing.
According to Mr. Kochliu, aniline black is
produced as follpws : "Water, 20 to 30 parts ;
chlorate of potassa, 1 part; sal ammoniac, 1
part; chloride of copper, 1 part; aniline, hy-
drochloric acid,
mixed together.
of each 1 part, previously
Several other formulae for
ly-
sly
producing aniline blacks have been devised
for dyeing purposes. It is essential in each
of them, and always, that the preparation
shall be acid, and the more acid it is, the
more rapid is the production of the blacks.
The action, of course, if it be excessive, will
be likely to injure the fibre of the fabric.
2573. Aniline Black on Wool. For
2 pounds of wool, a bath is prepared of "20
quarts water, 3 ounces permanganate of
potassa, 4J ounces sulphate of magnesia.
The use of sulphate of magnesia has for its
object, to prevent the formation of caustic
alkali, and has already been proposed by
Tessio du Mothay. The wool is impregnated
with this solution, and left in it until the fluid
has become colorless, or nearly so, whereby it
ANILINE COLORS.
24:1
is colored dark-brown and covered with brown
oxide of manganese. This process takes place
easily in the cold, but it is best to dissolve
the permanganate in hot water. The wool is
now pressed out, and, without washing, con-
veyed into a bath of 12 ounces commercial
aniline oil, 21 ounces commercial hydrochloric
acid, and 8 quarts water, where it is moved
about in the cold ; it attains here directly a
dark green-black color. It is pressed out
again, washed in water containing a little
soda, and treated with a weak solution of
i ounce bichromate of potassa in 10 quarts
water. The color becomes now dark black,
when the wool is washed with water and
dried.
2574. Persoz's Aniline Black for
Wool or Silk. Steep the silk or wool for 1
hour at a boiling heat, in a bath consisting of
5 grammes (77 grains) bichromate of potassa,
3 grammes (46 grains) sulphate of copper,
and 2 grammes (31 grains) oil of vitriol, for
each litre (2^ pints) of water used. It is then
thoroughly washed, and afterward passed
through a solotion of oxalate of aniline mark-
ing 1° to 2° Baum6, in which it at once as-
sumes a black color. In case the fabric con-
tains a vegetable fibre, the first bath must be
replaced by a series of baths resulting in
chromate of lead. This is effected by succes-
sive passages through a solution of nitrate or
acetate of lead, then through a hot one of
sulphate of soda; and lastly through a cold
bath of from 5 to 20 grammes (77 to 300 grains)
bichromate of potash to the litre (2-tV pints)
of water.
2575. To Prepare Magenta for Dye-
ing. This color, which is also called rosein,
fuchsine, and aniline red, is the best known of
the series. It is better adapted for the pre-
paration of a liquid dye than any other. In
the hands of the amateur it can be used with
economy, and the results obtained are gener-
ally satisfactory. It is readily soluble in alco-
hol, and to some extent in water. The latter
property is taken advantage of by dyers, the
dye bath being prepared directly from the
crystals. It is, however, preferable to use
alcohol for dissolving the color, as the solu-
bility in water is not always the same with
different samples. To 1 pound of. the crystals
add 2£ gallons of spirit .8200 specific gravity.
The solution may be conveniently made in an
ordinary 5-gallon tin. Agitate frequently,
and add 2£ gallons of hot water. This pro-
duct will be suitable for sale as a liquid dye,
but for dyers' use, where a large quantity of
water is admissable, 1£ gallons of spirit will
be found sufficient. It is sometimes necessary
to filter before using.
2576. To Dye Silk or Wool Magenta.
Sufficient water to cover, without difficulty,
the fabric to be dyed, is brought to a temper-
ature of about 170° Fahr. ; a sufficient quan-
tity of the dye is added, and followed by the
immersion of the goods, which should be
moved about to prevent streaks. About half
an hour's immersion is sufficient. Half an
ounce of the crystals should give a fair shade
to 10 pounds of wool. A bath of soap-suds is
sometimes employed instead of water, and by
the use of alkali, brighter, but perhaps less
permanent colors are produced. Acids render
the shade dull and bluish.
2577. To Dye Cotton Magenta.
Place the cotton in a bath of sumach (1 pound
sumach to 10 pounds cotton) for 2 hours.
Wring out, and dye in the same manner as
wool. (See previous receipt.) A brighter
shade is given by dissolving £ ounce soap in
hot water, letting the solution cool to 90°,
adding 2£ ounces olive oil, and mixing with
tepid water. In this 5 pounds of cotton may
be worked for about 5 minutes. A bath con-
taining i pound sumach and 1 ounce tin
crystals is next prepared, through which the
cotton should be passed, wrung out, and
finally dyed in a bath of magenta and pure
water.
2578. Aniline Cerise and Safranine.
These colors resemble magenta in appearance,
and appear to be varieties of that substance.
They are readily soluble in alcohol, and more
or less so in water. The colors produced are
similar to those obtained from safnower, but
possess greater vivacity and permanence. The
shades are exceedingly delicate and beautiful,
inclining to pink with a shade of yellow. The
dye bath is prepared, and the fabric dyed, in
the same manner as magenta. (See Nos.
2575, <fe.)»
2579. To Dye Aniline Yellow. This
color is slightly soluble in water, and for
dyers' use may be used directly for the pre-
paration of the dye bath. It is, however,
preferably prepared in a liquid state, by dis-
solving 1 pound of dye in 2 gallons of alcohol.
(See No. 2575.) Without any addition to the
dye bath very good yellows may be produced,
but the color is much improved and bright-
ened by a trace of sulphuric acid. The
temperature of the bath should be under
200° Pahr.
2580. Schiflfs Aniline Yellow. This
matter, according to Schiff, is easily prepared
by means of hydrated antimonic or stannic
acid. Stannate of soda or other alkaline anti-
moniate or stannate is to be pounded with
half its weight of aniline to a clear pulpy
consistence, then hydrochloric acid is added
till the acid reaction takes place. It is then
shaken up, and the scarlet color removed by
etherized alcohol, the mass being, of course,
previously dried. After proper purification it
is allowed to evaporate spontaneously, and in
this way are formed flakes of a hydrochlorate,
having for base a red coloring matter, which
must not be confounded with rosaniline.
When this hydrochlorate is decomposed by
alkalies, deep yellow flakes are deposited,
which again become red in presence of acids.
By impregnating silk or wool with this red
color, and then passing it into a hot solution
of carbonate of soda, a beautiful yellow tint
is developed, similar to the yellow of picric
acid, and which M. Schiff claims to possess
considerable stability.
2581. To Dye with Aniline Crimson.
A solid dye, belonging to the same series as
the preceding, is sold as crimson, but it does
not appear to differ very materially from ma-
;enta, giving shades with a trifle less blue.
t is applied in the same manner as magenta.
(See Nos. 2575, SfC.} Much better colors are
obtained by the use of aniline yellow (see No.
2579) and magenta. The former may be ap-
plied in the manner indicated for that color,
and the fabric so dyed must be passed through
24=2
ANILINE COLORS.
a bath of magenta until the required shade is
produced. By mixing the liquid yellow and
m&genta dyes in a bath of soap-suds, nearly
every shade from magenta to orange may be
obtained. This will be found a satisfactory
method for amateurs.
2582. To Prepare Aniline Scaxlet
Dye. To produce this color, aniline scarlet
dye may be used. Neither this nor coralline
is adapted for amateur use, as great exactness
is required in compounding the dye bath.
For the use of amateurs, aniline yellow and
magenta, as indicated for crimson (see No.
2581) is recommended. To produce scarlet
the yellow should predominate, or the bath
may be rendered slightly sour by sulphuric
acid. Aniline scarlet dissolves easily in wa-
ter, and the bath may be made directly from
the eolid substance. A liquid dye may be
made, if desired, by dissolving 1 pound scarlet
in 4 gallons water and 1 gallon alcohol.
2583. To Dye with Aniline Scarlet.
Add to the bath containing the dye, an excess
of alum and cream of tartar ; neutralize care-
fully by carbonate of soda — the exact point
may be known by the liquid changing from a
yellowish to a pinkish red.
2584. To Dye Aniline Scarlet. For
every 40 pounds of goods, dissolve 5 pounds
white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) at 180° Fahr.,
place the goods into this bath for 10 minutes,
then add the color, prepared by boiling for a few
minutes, 1 pound aniline scarlet in 3 gallons
water, stirring the same continually. This
solution has to be filtered before being added
to the bath. The goods remain in the latter
for 15 minutes, when they have become
browned, and must be boiled for another half
hour in the same bath, after the addition of
sal ammoniac. The more of this is added the
redder the shade will become.
2585. To Prepare Coralline Dye.
Dissolve 1 pound coralline in li gallons alco-
hol specific gravity .8200, by the aid of heat ;
mix the solution with 7£ gallons boiling wa-
ter, and re-dissolve the precipitated dye by
the cautious addition of water of ammonia.
2586. To Dye with Coralline. Add
the color prepared as in No. 2585, to the dye
bath, and neutrallize with acetic acid. The
exact point is indicated by the pink color of
the solution changing to an orange red. Im-
merse the goods, and, when the required color
is obtained, remove and wash in a bath of
soap-suds.
2587. Water-Glass as a Solvent of
Coralline. Dissolve coralline in a boiling
mixture of 1 part concentrated water-glass
(silicate of soda or potassa of the consistency
of a thick syrup), and 4 parts water, and, after
cooling, apply this solution as a paint for
wood (white woods containing little or no
tannic acid are preferable), paper, toys, artifi-
cial flower tissues, &c., to all of which ma-
terials this solution of coralline imparts a
beautiful carmine red tint.
2588. Preparation of Innoxious Cor-
alline. M. Guyot states that coralline is fre-
quently poisonous, because the rosolic acid,
used to obtain it, contains phenol (carbolic
acid), and this dangerous quality in the pro-
duct can only be avoided by using the exact
proportions necessary, in manufacturing the
compounds.
2589. To Prepare Aniline Brown for
Dyeing. This color may be used as a liquid
dye, and for this purpose 1 pound of the brown
may be dissolved in 2 gallons of spirit specific
gravity 8200.
2590. To Dye with Aniline Brown.
Add a sufficient quantity of the dye, prepared
according to the previous receipt, to the dye
bath, and immerse the fabric. "Wool possesses
a very strong affinity for this color, and no
mordant is required. A snuff brown, more or
less deep, is produced.
2591. To Prepare Bismarck Brown
for Dyeing. Mix together 1 pound Bis-
marck, 5 pounds water, and £ pound sulphuric
acid. This paste dissolves easily in hot water
and may be used directly for dyeing. A li-
quid dye may be prepared by making the bulk
of the above mixture to 2 gallons with alcohol.
2592. To Dye Wool Bismarck Brown.
Bender the bath, prepared as in No. 2591, sour
with sulphuric acid ; add a quantity of sulphate
of soda, immerse the wool, and add the color
by small portions, keeping the temperature
under 212° Fahr. Very interesting shades
may be developed by combining the color with
indigo paste or picric acid. (See No. 2601.)
2593,. To Dye Cotton Bismarck
Brown. Cotton requires mordanting with
sumach and acetate of alumina, and is dyed in
a bath under 100° Fahr., prepared according
to No. 2591. By the use of bichromate of pot-
ash redder shades may be obtained. The usual
color inclines to cinnamon.
2594. To Dye with Vesuvine. This
aniline color is prepared and used in the same
manner as magenta. (See No. 2575, etc.)
2595. To Dye with Aurine. Dissolve
1 pound aurine in 2 gallons alcohol specific
gravity .8200. This color is used .principally
for silk. Dye in a bath containing a trace of
sulphuric acid. By combining with magenta
(see No. 2575), very bright colors are produced.
2596. To Dye with Palatine Orange.
The palatine orange dye is prepared in a sim-
ilar manner to magenta. (See No. 2575.) Een-
der the bath slightly acid by bichloride of tin,
and dye at the boiling point. A very fast, but
not very brilliant orange is produced. The
color may be combined with magenta or indigo
paste.
2597. To Dye with Phosphine.
Phosphine is treated in the same way as pala-
tine, omitting the sulphuric acid, and substi-
tuting a trace of carbonate of soda; or jjse a
soap bath.
2598. To Dye Silk with Aniline
Green. Iodine green, or night green, dis-
solves easily in warm water. For a liquid
dye, 1 pound may be dissolved in 1 gallon al-
cohol, and mixed with 2 gallons of water con-
taining 1 ounce sulphuric acid. This color is
almost always a failure in the hands of the
amateur, and is not recommended. For silk,
no addition to the dye bath is required, the
temperature being kept under 180° Fahr.
2599. To Dye Wool with Aniline
Green. For wool, prepare two baths, one
containing the dissolved dye and a quantity of
carbonate of soda, or borax. In this the wool
is placed, and the temperature raised to 212°
Fahr. A grayish green shade is produced,
which must be brightened and fixed in a sec-
ond bath of water at 100° Fahr., to which
ANILINE COLORS.
24:3
some acetic acid has been added. Cotton re-
quires preparation by sumach. (See No. 2577.)
2600. To Dye with Iodine Green.
Mis 3 pounds of iodine green paste well with
about 2$ pounds of cold water ; then add suc-
cessively, 1 pound acetic acid 8° Baum6, 80
pounds water of a temperature of 140° Fahr,
and 2 pounds liquor ammonia, stirring the
mixture well all the while, and filtering it
before use. Bring the dye bath to the boil-
ing point ; put in as much of the solution as is
necessary for the shade required, and dye for
half an hour, letting the bath cool off in the
meantime. Then have a second water bath
of 140° Fahr. ready, prepared as follows, viz. :
For every 20 pounds of wool, add £ pound sul-
phuric acid 66° Baum6, and -J pound per-
chloride of tin crystals, the latter previously
dissolved in an equal quantity of water. Take
the goods from the first bath, without washing,
into the second bath, turn them in it for 15
minutes, and the green will develop vividly.
For yellowish tints, shade off with picric acid
(see No. 2601), which must be added to the
second bath and dyed quickly. By this
method, 1 pound of iodine green paste will
dye 12 pounds of wool a medium shade. Pre-
serve the first bath, inasmuch as one-third of
the dye remains in it, which circumstance is
important in renewing the bath, which will,
consequently, require one-third less dye-stuff
when making it for the second lot.
2601. To Dye with Picric Acid. Dis-
solve 1 pound picric acid in 1 gallon of alcohol
specific gravity .8200. The dye bath requires
no addition, or special precaution. This color
is used to produce shades of lemon and canary
which cannot be attained by the aniline yellow
or phosphine. Its chief use is for dyeing
green. For this purpose pass the fabric
through a bath containing sulphuric acid and
alum, adding, after thorough immersion, a
sufficient quantity of solution of picric acid
and indigo extract (see No. 99) to produce the
desired shade.
2602. To Dye with Aniline Blue. To
100 pounds of fabric dissolve 1£ pounds of ani-
line blue in 3 quarts hot alcohol; strain
through a filter, and add it to a bath of 130°
Fahr., also 10 pounds Glauber's salts and 5
pounds acetic acid. Enter the goods, and
handle them well for 20 minutes ; next heat it
slowly to 200° Fahr. ; then add 5 pounds sul-
phuric acid diluted with water. Let the whole
boil 20 minutes longer, then rinse and dry.
If the aniline be added in two or three propor-
tions during the process of coloring, it will
facilitate the evenness of the color. The blue,
or red shade of blue, is governed by the kind
of aniline used, as, there is a variety in the
market. Hard and close-wove fabrics, such
as braid, ought to be prepared in a boiling solu-
tion of 10 pounds sulphuric acid and 2 pounds
tartaric acid before coloring with the aniline,
as this will make the fabric more susceptible
to the color. Blues soluble in water color
more easily than those which have to be dis-
solved in alcohol.
2603. To Dye Silk or Wool with Ani-
line Blue. In this manner are used the va-
rieties of aniline blues known as Bleu de Lyon,
Pure Blue. Red Blue, and all others soluble in
alcohol, into a stone jar fitted with a cover,
through which a hole is made to admit a stick
for stirring, putl pound of the dye, 5 gallons al-
cohol specific gravity .8200, and 2 ounces sul-
phuric acid; apply the heat of a water bath
and stir frequently. After allowing the mix-
ture to cool, filter, and treat any undissolved
residue with fresh alcohol until complete so-
lution is effected. From 5 to 8 gallons will be
required. The dye bath for wool should be
rendered sour by sulphuric acid. Tin crystals
may be used, in quantity equal to about ^
the weight of the wool, to improve the viva-
city of the shade. The bath should be brought
to the boiling point. For silk, prepare a soap
bath, add the color, and put in the goods.
"When dyed sufficiently, pass through a bath
acidulated with sulphuric acid.
2604. To Dye Cotton with Aniline
Blue. Cotton is prepared as for magenta
(see No. 2577), and dyed in an acid bath as for
wool. (See No. 2603.)
2605. To Dye with Aniline Water-
Blue. This color is quite soluble in water,
and will answer well for preparing a liquid
dye; 1 pound may be dissolved in a mixture
of 1 gallon alcohol and 4 gallons water. Dyers
dissolve the powder in the dye bath. The dye
is used in the same way as Blende Lyon. (See
No. 2603.)
2606. To Dye with Alkali Blue and
Nicholson's Blue. Dissolve 1 pound of the
dye in 10 gallons boiling water. Add this, by
small portions, to the dye bath, which should
be rendered alkaline by borax. The fabric
should be well worked about between each
addition of the color ; the temperature must
be kept under 212° Fahr. If the right pro-
portion of borax has been used the goods will
show but little color when removed from the
bath. To develop this, wash with water and
pass through a bath containing sulphuric acid.
2607. To Dye with Aniline Violet
and Purple. The various aniline purples
known as Parme, Violet de Fuchsin, Victoria
Violet, and Amaranth, are used in the same
manner as Bleu de Lyon (see No. 2603), omit-
ting the sulphuric acid. Acidulate the bath by
sulphuric acid, or use sulphate of soda ; both
these substances render the shade bluish.
Dye at 212°. To give a fair middle shade to
10 pounds of wool, a quantity of solution
equal to -J- to f ounce of the solid dye will be
required. The color of the dyed fabric is im-
proved by washing in soap and water, and
then passing through a bath soured by sul-
phuric acid. According to Mr. Hirsch, cotton
is treated as follows: Prepare the goods for
fuchsine, and turn them over a few times in a
tepid solution of 2£ ounces crystallized per-
chloride of tin, for every 10 pounds of goods.
Kemove the latter, add as much violet solu-
tion as the shade requires, dye for a quarter of
an hour, wring well, and dry. Washing in a
solution of alum and starch will render the
color more solid.
2608. To Dye with Hoffman's Purple.
The dye is prepared as other purples. (See
No. 2607.) Some authorities maintain that
this color does not require the addition of acid
to the dye bath, but the color is apt to rub
off when dyed in this manner. A trace of
tartar, or of tartaric, oxalic, or any vegetable
acid may be used with advantage ; but min-
eral acids are to be particularly avoided. The
bath should be kept at a boiling temperature.
24=4=
LIQUID COLORS.
2609. To Dye Woolens Blue with
Aniline. To the water in the vat sulphuric
acid is added in sufficient quantity to cause it
to taste as acid as vinegar ; it is then brought
to boiling, and kept so for 10 minutes ; some
blue aniline liquor is then added with stirring;
the goods are submerged, and kept under
while boiling until the water has lost its
color; after which they are removed, fresh
liquor is added, and the process continued
until the desired color has been given, the wa-
ter being kept constantly at a boil. (See No.
333.)
2610. To Dye Silk Blue with. Aniline.
Silk is steeped first for an hour in lukewarm
water, acidulated with sulphuric acid, as for
woolens in the last receipt, and the color must
be added in 4 to 5 small portions, raising the
temperature gradually to boiling, and contin-
uing it at that, when a good color has been
obtained, for some 5 to 10 minutes. The old
bath is then replaced by fresh water, which is
acidified with sulphuric acid, and in which
the silk is boiled for 10 minutes ; after which
it is thoroughly washed in water and then in
suds, afterwards again in water, then once
more drawn through acidulated water, and
lastly through water alone. (See No. 333.)
2611. To Dye Silks or Woolens Vio-
let or Purple with Aniline. Yiolets and
purples are produced on wool in the same
manner as the blue ; on silk the same method
is used likewise, but the water must only be
heated short of boiling. (See Nos. 315 and
316.)
2612. Jacobson's Method of Com-
bining Fat and Oil with Aniline Bed.
The following process is given for this purpose
by Dr. E. Jacobson. First separate rosan-
iline from commercial fuchsine by heating
with soda or digestion with ammonia ; wash
and dry it. An oleate or stearate of rosani-
line is next obtained by adding the rosaniline
to oleic acid or melted stearic acid as long as
it will dissolve, or by putting them together
in equivalent proportions. An excess of oleic
acid must be avoided when the compound is
required for a varnish, as it delays the drying.
Oleate or stearate of rosaniline easily dissolves
in fats or oils, and colors these an intense red.
If it is wanted for a linseed oil varnish, the
linseed oil must be free from lead. The com-
pound must be kept from the fire, or it soon
turns blue, probably by the reducing action
of the fatty acids. The best red color is ob-
tained in linseed oil varnish. Stearine with
oleate or stearate of rosaniline appears a blu-
ish red. Paraffine appears to act as a reduc-
ing agent with the compounds of fatty acids
and aniline, and changes to a dirty violet
color; the mixture then is inapplicable to the
coloring of parafiine or stearine candles. The
f oleate or stearate of rosaniline is a good color-
ing agent for hair oil or pomatum, but, from
the instability of the color, seems inapplicable
for oil painting.
2613. Dyeing with Fuchsine on Wool
or Silk. Fuchsine (the crystals of acetate of
rosaniline), or .the solution, is mixed with cold
water for silk, or in water of 130° to 140°
Fahr. for wool, which temperature is kept up.
For silk, a few drops of acetic acid are also
added. The strength of the dye regulates
the quantity which is required. The goods
are merely immersed in the bath until they
have taken up sufficient of the color ; it is not
always advisable to work them about while in
the bath.
Colors for Various
J— I PTirpOSeS. These receipts in-. ;
elude the preparation and appliance of such
liquid colors as are used to tinge or impart
color to matter generally. Their particular
uses and appliances are specified in the receipt
given for each preparation. In addition to
those here given, a number of other receipts
for coloring matter have been necessarily in-
cluded under the respective headings of the
special objects for which they are used,
and will be readily found by consulting the
index.
2615. Soluble Prussian Blue. Add
a solution of protosulphate of iron to a solution
of prussiate of potash, and expose the precipi-
tate to the air till it becomes blue, and wash it
till the soluble salts are washed away. By
continuing the washing, the blue itself dis-
solves, forming a deep blue solution, which
may be evaporated without decomposition.
Or, add a solution of persulphate of iron to a
solution of ferroprussiate of potash, keeping
the latter in excess; wash the precipitate
until it begins to dissolve, and dry it. (See
No. 2488 for another method.)
2616. Chemique, or Chexnic Blue.
Sulphate of Indigo. To 7 or 8 parts of oil of
vitriol, in a glass or earthen vessel, placed in
cold water, add gradually 1 part of fine indigo
in powder, stirring the mixture at each addi-
tion with a glass rod or piece of tobacco-pipe.
Cover the vessel for 24 hours, then dilute with
an equal weight of water. Sometimes it is
sold without diluting. The German fuming
acid answers best, 4 or 5 parts of it being suf-
ficient for 1 of indigo. For dyeing silk, <fecv
carbonate of potash, soda, or ammonia, is
added, to neutralize the acid, taking care not
to add it in excess. (See Nos. 98 and 4791.)
2617. Liefchild's Patent Blue for
Linen. Mix 4 parts Chinese blue, 1 of Turn-
bull's blue, and 1 of oxalic acid ; gradually add
boiling water until the whole is dissolved, and
lastly 4 parts of sulphate of indigo. The lat-
ter is made with 1 part indigo, and 4 sulphuric
acid, neutralized with carbonate of ammonia.
2618. Blue for Linen. The ordinary
kinds of cake blue consist of indigo and starch.
2619. Solvents for Indigo. Indigo will
dissolve in Yenice turpentine heatM to its
boiling point, or in boiling parafiine. with the
same blue color as the solution of sulphuric
acid; and in petroleum it forms a carmine so-
lution, while in spermaceti it produces a car-
mine-violet, and in stearic acid a blue color.
2620. Bluing for Clothes. Take 1
ounce of soft Prussian blue, powder it and put
in a bottle with !• quart of clear rain water,
and add J ounce of oxalic acid. A tea-spoonful
is sufficient for a large washing.
2621. Purified Annotto. To a boiling
solution of pearlash add as much annotto as it
will dissolve. "When cold, decant the clear
solution, and neutralize with diluted sulphuric
acid, avoiding any excess. "Wash the precipi-
tate with a little cold water, and dry it.
LIQUID COLORS.
24,5
2622. Solution of Annotto. Boil equal
weights of annotto and pearlask with, water,
and dilute to the required color.
2623. Cochineal Coloring. Take 1
ounce each powered cochineal, carbonate of
potash, bitartrate of potash, and alum; boil
these in a glazed vessel with 7 ounces water
and 1 ounce spirit of wine, until effervescence
ceases (about 10 minutes). In this liquid dis-
solve an equal weight of refined sugar by
means of sufficient heat, and set aside for use.
This coloring remains bright for any length of
time, does not throw down any precipitate,
and is almost unalterable by contact with
either acids or alkalies, which is no small ad-
vantage. Dickson's coloring has some disad-
vantages in the large quantity of spirit and the
delicacy of the ammonia tint. The first would
have a tendency to cause a cloudy appearance
in bright jellies and other preparations con-
taining gelatine, and the ammonia color would
be liable to be completely changed when
brought in contact with lemon juice, baked
pears, and other acids met with in the many
culinary purposes for which the article is
largely used.
2624. Dickson's Cochineal Coloring.
Mix together 2 ounces spirit of wine and 6
ounces water. In 3 ounces of this mixture in-
fuse 1 ounce powdered cochineal for 15 min-
utes, in a flask heated to nearly boiling point.
Pour the infusion into another vessel, and re-
peat the process with 3 ounces more of the
mixed spirit and water ; and a third time, with
the remaining 2 ounces. Let the liquid stand
till cold, when some fatty matter will rise to
the surface ; filter, adding spirit and water, up
to eight fluid ounces. Lastly, add sufficient
strong water of ammonia to change the infu-
sion to the desired tint. The coloring is thus
prepared without carbonate of potash, alum,
etc., and is free from the objections that at-
tach to the coloring obtained by the aid of
those substances. (See last receipt.) These
objections are: — 1st, the coloring matter is
thrown down as a lake, and after some time
forms a layer at the bottom of the containing
vessel, requiring the addition of ammonia to
re-dissolve and keep it in solution ; and — 2d,
it does not keep well. On the other hand, the
advantages of Dickson's preparation are : — 1st,
the coloring-matter remains in solution, and
— 2d, it keeps well, and has no unpleasant
odor.
2625. Cochineal Coloring. Macerate
1 ounce best carmine in 6 ounces strong solu-
tion of ammonia, until it is dissolved. Heat
gently to drive off excess of ammonia, taking
care not to carry it too far, so as to precipitate
the carmine. Put into a quart wine bottle,
and add 4 ounces rectified spirit and 3 pounds
white sugar. Pill up with warm water, and
shake until the sugar is dissolved. This is a
splendid coloring.
2626. Black Lustre Color for Paper,
Cloth, or Wood.. Dr. Kielrneyer gives a re-
ceipt which is adapted for either paper, cloth,
or porous wood. He states thatit stands well,'
is very supple, and has no tendency to get
sticky. To prepare it, boil together 8 pounds
glue, previously dissolved in 10 pounds water ;
1 pound potato starch, dissolved in 5i pounds
water; 5£ pounds campeachy extract of 6°
Baume ; 1 pound 2 ounces green vitriol, and
8£ pounds brown glycerine. "When thoroughly
mixed, remove the pot from the fire, and con-
tinue to stir until the liquid is cold. If the
paiut be desired thicker or thinner, the amount
of starch and glue must be varied as well as
the other materials, or the lustre will suffer.
2627. Black Produced by the Mixture
of Colorless Liquids. One of the most in-
teresting phenomena in the operations of
chemistry occurs in the decomposition of sul-
phate of iron by gallic acid. Into a wine-glass,
containing the infusion of galls, pour a solution
of the sulphate of iron. The gallic acid, from
its superior elective affinity to the iron, de-
taches it from its former combination with the
sulphuric acid, and in a short time these two
fluids, previously colorless, become intensely
black. To make this black fluid into ink,
nothing but a little gum is required, to retard
the precipitation of the coloring matter.
2628. To Make Liquid Blue. Put
into a bottle 1 ounce pure Prussian blue, in
fine powder, and pour upon it 2 ounces con-
centrated hydrochloric acid. Effervescence
ensues, and the mixture soon assumes the
consistence of a thin paste. Leave it for 24
hours, and then dilute with 8 or 9 ounces
water, and bottle it. The whole may be
further diluted with a quart of water and still
retain' a sufficiently dark color for washing
muslins, etc. The common blue writing fluid
is thus prepared.
2629. Carmine Purple. The dye re-
cently invented, and known as carmine purple,
is obtained by the solution of uric acid in
nitric acid, care being taken to prevent boil-
ing over and too great an increase of temper-
ature. The mixture should remain standing
quietly for some days, after which a thick,
pasty, or doughy substance is obtained, which
is to be treated with warm water, filtered, and
the residuum again treated with warm water.
The filtered liquid possesses a reddish or yel-
lowish color, resulting from the organic sub-
stances decomposed by the nitric acid. It is
next to be evaporated in a large enameled
iron vessel, but not heated to the boiling
point, which would destroy the rnurexide
(carmine purple) produced. After the liquid
has been evaporated to a syrupy consistency,
and has assumed a beautiful brownish-red or
violet color, it is to be allowed to cool. The
entire quantity of the liquid should never be
evaporated at one time, nor heated to the boil-
ing point.
2630. To Color with Alkanet Boot.
Anchusa Tinctoria gives a fine red tinge to
oils, fats, wax, turpentine, spirits, essences,
etc., and is used to color hair oil, pomatums,
ointments, varnishes, etc. The spirituous so-
lution stains marble of a deep red ; wax tinged
with alkanet and applied to warm marble,
leaves a fresh color.
2631. To Color with Mallow or Malva
Flowers. The mallow or rnalva flower is a
native of Europe, growing abundantly on
waste grounds and by the waysides. It isi
also sometimes cultivated in this country.,)
This flower, which gives a beautiful color to
water, is used for coloring port and claret
wines, and it is considered one of the best ar-
ticles that can be employed for that purpose.
Weigh 2 pounds, and steep the red petals in
cold water for 5 or 6 hours. Tartaric acid
LIQUID COLORS.
mixed with the mallow gives a bright red I the coloring of toilet soap. Of all the agents
color, and salt of tartar (carbonate of potassa)
a deep purple red.
2632. To Purify Caramel. The cara-
mel of commerce is spirit coloring, or a solu-
tion of burnt sugar in water. (See No. 694.)
In this state it is mixed with variable quanti-
ties of undecomposed sugar and certain bitter
compounds. To render it quite pure, it should
be dissolved iu water, filtered, and alcohol
added until it ceases to produce a precipitate.
The caramel is thus thrown down, while the
impurities remain in solution. Pure caramel
is a black or dark brown powder, soluble in
water, to which it gives a rich sepia tint; it is
insoluble in alcohol, and incapable of ferment-
ation.
2633. Blue Dye from Molybdenum.
According to late experiments by Professor
Boettger, based upon some previous researches
of Dr. Schonn, if molybdic acid be dissolved
to saturation in concentrated sulphuric acid
with heat, an uncolored clear fluid is obtained,
forming a double acid of sulphuric and molyb-
dic acid. If a little of this double acid be
placed in a porcelain dish and heated till it
begins to throw off white vapors, and then a
certain quantity of absolute alcohol be gradu-
ally added, a beautiful blue color is developed,
as if by magic, by means of which silk can be
dyed without the use of any mordant.
2634. Mordants. Substances employed
to fix the coloring matters of dye-stuffs on
organic fibres, and to give them brilliancy and
permanency. This they effect, either by their
strong affinity for the fibre and the dye matter,
serving as a bond of union between the two,
or by uniting with, and rendering insoluble,
the dye contained in the pores of the fibre.
The principal mordants are alum, and the
oxides of iron or tin. (See No. 93.)
2635. To Color Butter. Pureannotto,
when properly prepared, is very successfully
used for imparting a good color to fall and
winter butter. (See No. 2621.) Annotto of
course adds nothing to the flavor or quality
of butter, but as the pure article, when thus
employed for coloring, is quite harmless, there
can be no serious objection to its use. In
coloring butter with annotto it is important
that a prime article be used, and to have it
prepared so that it shall be free from sedi-
ment and adulteration.
2636. To Color Pickles and Sweet-
meats Green. A beautiful green color, en-
tirely destitute of any poisonous qualities, may
be made by dissolving 5 grains saffron in J
ounce distilled water, and in another vessel
dissolving 4 grains indigo carmine in \ ounce
distilled water. After shaking each up thor-
oughly they are allowed to stand for 24 hours,
and on being mixed together at the expiration
of that time a fine green solution is obtained,
capable of coloring 5 pounds of sugar.
2637. Chameleon Mineral. Mix equal
weights of black oxide of manganese and
pure potash, and heat them in a crucible.
Keep the compound in closely-stoppered bot-
tles. A solution of it in water passes through
Various shades of color from green to red.
2638. Cadmium Yellow Color for
Soap. The chemical works of Sobering, in
Berlin, have introduced two shades of sulphide
of cadmium, a lemon and orange yellow, for
thus far tried to give a lively yellow color to
soap, sulphide of cadmium (cadmium yellow)
has proved the most permanent. Age and
sunlight do not affect the color, and the quan-
tity required is exceedingly small.
'2639. To Color Soap Yellow with
Cadmium. The cadmium yellow (see above)
is rubbed up with oil, and added to the soap
under constant stirring. The color is not dis-
solved in the soap, but suspended in it, and
much depends upon careful mixing.
2640. Liquid Colors. The following,
when thickened with a little gum, are used as
inks for writing, as colors to tint maps, foils, pa-
per, artificial flowers, &c., and to paint on
velvet. Some of them are very beautiful. It
must be observed, however, that those made
with strong spirit do not mix well with gum,
unless dilutee! with water.
2641. Liquid Blue. Dissolve litmus in
water, and add £ of spirit of wine. Or, dilute
Saxon blue or sulphate of indigo with water.
If required for delicate work, neutralize the
acid with chalk. Or, to an aqueous infusion of
litmus add a few drops of vinegar till it turns
full blue.
2642. Liquid Purple. Steep litmus in
water, and strain. Or, add a little alum to a
strained decoction of logwood. Or, add a solu-
tion of carmine (red) to a little blue solution
of litmus or Saxon blue.
2643. Liquid Green. Dissolve crystal-
lized verdigris in water. Or, dissolve sap
green in water, and add a little alum. Or, add
a little salt of tartar to a blue or purple solu-
tion of litmus, till it turns green. Or, dissolve
equal parts of crystallized verdigris and cream
of tartar in water, and add a little gum-arabic.
Used as an ink for writing.
2644. Liquid Yellow. Disso'lve gam-
boge in water, and add a little gum-arabic and
alum. Used for ink, to stain paper, color
maps, &c. Or, dissolve gamboge in equal
parts of proof spirit and water. Golden col-
ored. Or, steep French berries in hot water,
strain, and add a little gum and alum. Or,
steep turmeric, round zedoary, gamboge, or
annotto, in spirits of wine. Or, dissolve an-
notto in a weak lye of subcarbonate of soda
or potash. The above are used by artificial
florists.
2645. Liquid Red. Macerate ground
Brazil in vinegar, boil a few minutes, strain,
and add a little alum and gum. Or, add vine-
gar to an infusion of litmus till it turns red.
Or, boil or infuse powdered cochineal in water;
strain, and add a little alum and gum. Or,
dissolve carmine in liquor of ammonia, or iu.
weak carbonate of potash water ; the former
is superb. (See No. 2623, <fc.)
2646. To Tint Maps or Architects'
Plans. Maps, paper, or architects' plans may
be tinted with any of the simple liquid colors
just mentioned. To prevent the colors sink-
ing and spreading, which they will usually do
on common paper, the latter should be wetted
2 or 3 times with a sponge dipped in alum
water (3 or 4 ounces to the pint), or a solu-
tion of white size ; observing to dry it care-
fully after each coat. This will tend to give
lustre and beauty to the colors. The colors
themselves should also be thickened with
gum. Before varnishing maps after coloring
LIQUID COLORS.
24=7
them, 2 or 3 coats of clean size should be ap-
plied with a brush.
2647. Sizing for Prints or Engravings
to be Colored. Dissolve 4 ounces finest
pale glue, and 4 ounces white curd soap, in 3
pints boiling water ; add 2 ounces powdered
alum. "Used for sizing prints and engravings
before coloring them.
2648. Druggists' Show Colors. These
are bright and perfectly transparent liquid
colors, employed by druggists in ornamental
bottles for purposes of display, forming an at-
tractive and distinctive ornament of a drug
store window. It has for a long time been
tried to render the beautiful colors of per-
manganates more permanent. They are liable
to decompose under the influence of light and
atmospheric dust, and no way has as yet been
discovered to obviate this difficulty. Many
druggists have proposed to fill the bottles in
their windows with solutions of aniline colors,
but even these have to be renewed from time
to time. Neutral metallic salts, that have
neither tendency to oxydize nor to reduce, are
best employed for this purpose. The receipts
here given are among the very best and most
used for this purpose. The mixtures require
careful filtration through powdered glass in a
glass funnel. It will be found desirable to
make a little more liquid color than is actually
required, to replace the loss occasioned by a
second filtration (performed in the same man-
ner as the first), which will probably be ne-
cessary after exposure for a few weeks to the
light : as any addition of water after filtra-
tion, to make up the deficiency, tends to
weaken the color and detract from its bright-
ness. Druggists' show-bottles are now made
of colored glass, and filled with pure water.
These are just as effective as the white glass
bottles filled with colored waters, and obvious-
ly involve much less trouble.
2649. Amber. Digest 1 part dragon's
blood, coarsely powdered, in 4 parts oil of
vitriol ; when completely dissolved, dilute
with distilled or soft water to the desired
shade, and filter. (See No. 2648.)
2650. Indigo Blue. Dissolve indigo in
sulphuric acid, and dilute with pure water to
the required shade of color; filter as directed
in No. 2648.
2651. Blue. Dissolve 2 ounces sulphate
of copper in k ounce oil of vitriol and 1 pint
of pure water ; filter as in No. 2648.
2652. Prussian Blue. Dissolve pure
Prussian blue in slightly diluted oxalic or
muriatic (hydrochloric) acid ; add water to
bring the color to the desired shade, and filter.
(Sec'No. 2648.)
2853. Pink. To a solution of chloride
or nitrate of cobalt in water, add sufficient
sesquicarbonate of ammonia to dissolve the
precipitate at first formed. Filter as in No.
2648. Or : "Wash 1 ounce madder in cold wa-
ter; digest it, with agitation, for 24 hours in
3 pints water containing 4 ounces sesqui-
carbonato of ammonia; then dilute with water
to the desired shade, and filter as above.
2654. Purple. To an infusion of log-
wood, add sufficient carbonate of ammonia or
of potassa to make the color. Filter as direct-
ed in No. 2648. Or : To an infusion of coch-
ineal, add sufficient sulphate of indigo, nearly
neutralized with chalk. Filter as above.
2655. Red. Dissolve carmine in aqua
ammonia and dilute with water to the desired
shade ; filter as in No. 2648. Or : Dissolve
madder lake in a solution of sesquicarbonate
of ammonia, and dilute with water ; filter as
above.
2656. Violet. Dissolve nitrate of cobalt
in a solution of sesquicarbonate of ammonia ;
add sufficient arnrnonio- sulphate of copper to
produce the color. Filter as in No. 2648.
2657. Yellow. Dissolve £ pound sesqui-
oxideof iron (rust of iron), in 1 quart muriatic
(hydrochloric) acid; dilute with water, and
filter. (See No. 2648.) Or: Dissolve chro-
mate or bichromate of potash in distilled wa-
ter ; or equal parts of either the above and of
nitre (saltpetre) dissolved in water, and fil-
tered as above.
2658. Crimson. To 1 ounce alkanet root
add 1 pint oil of turpentine. Filter as direct-
ed in No. 2648. This is used chiefly for
lamps.
2659. Green. Dissolve 2 ounces blue
vitriol (sulphate of copper) in 1 pint water;
add sufficient bichromate of potassa to turn
the liquid green. Or : A solution of 2 ounces
blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), and 4 ounces
chloride of sodium, in 1 pint of water. Or :
A solution of distilled verdigris, in acetic acid,
and diluted with water. Or : Dissolve blue
vitriol in water as above, and add nitric acid
till it turns green. All these must be filtered
as directed in No. 2648.
2660. Lilac. Dissolve crude oxide of
cobalt in nitric or muriatic (hydrochloric)
acid ; add sesquicarbonate of ammonia, in ex-
cess ; afterwards sufficient ammonio-sulphate
of copper to produce the color required.
Filter. (See No. 2648.)
2661. Olive. Dissolve equal parts by
weight of sulphate of iron, and oil of vitriol,
in water ; add sufficient nitrate of copper to
produce the color. Filter as in No. 2648.
2662. Orange. A solution of bichro-
mate of potassa in water, either with or with-
out the addition of some hydrochloric or
sulphuric acid. Or : Dissolve gamboge or
annotto in liquor of potassa; dilute with
water and add a little spirit. Filter these as
directed in No. 2648.
2663. Sea Green. To 1 gallon water
add acetate of copper, 4 drachms ; and acetic
acid, 4 ounces.
2664. Pea Green. To 1 gallon water
add nickel, 2 drachms; acetic acid, 1. ounce;
and bichromate of potash, k drachm. Or : To
1 gallon diluted alcohol, add sulphate of cop-
per and common salt, of each 2 ounces.
2665. Light Blue. To 1 gallon of wa-
ter add sulphate of copper, 16 ounces.
2666. Light Green. Sulphate of cop-
per (re-crystallized), muriatic acid (free from
iron), water, alcohol, of each a sufficient
quantity.
2667. Violet to Purple. To the green
acid solution of sulphate of chromium add
strong solution of ammonia, and filter as
directed in No. 2648.
2668. Yellow. Bichromate of potassa,
acid, water, of each a sufficient
muriatic
quantity.
2669.
1 ounce.
Bright Red. Cochineal, ground,
Boil with 1 pint of water, replacing
that which evaporates. Towards the close
PIGMENTS.
add cream tartar, £ ounce ; alum, 1 ounce ;
and when cold, oil of vitriol, 1 ounce, mixed
with £ pint of water.
2670. Purple to Pink. Fuchsine dilu-
ted with spirit, as desired.
2671. Magenta, Solferino, Water of
the Nile, and other bright colors may be ob-
tained by mixing the various aniline or tar
colors with water as directed in No. 2497.
2672. To Prevent Show Colors
Freezing. It will be sufficient to bring the
solution to a strength of about 15 to 20 per
cent, of alcohol. Naturally the liquids must
be very dilute as regards the solids, so as to
suffer no precipitation of any saline matter by
cold or spirits. Acetate of copper, with or
without ammonia, a dilute solution of iodine
in iodide of potassium, nitrate of cobalt, etc.,
are not acted on by weak alcohol. "We be-
lieve that glycerine may be mixed with water
for this purpose, but whether it possesses
any superiority over alcohol we have not been
able to ascertain. The bottles in all cases
must have sufficient space left over the fluids
to allow for expansion.
Pigments. These are substances
employed as coloring matter in mixing
paints, <fcc. The following receipts furnish
the method of preparing the pigments and
other coloring matters in general use, and
their special appliances.
2674. Turnbull's Prussian Blue.
Ferricyanide (red prussiate) of potassium, 10
ounces; solution protosulphate of iron, 1
pint; water, 3 pints. Dissolve the ferricyanide
of potassium in part of water, and add the so-
lution, gradually, to the solution of protosul-
phate of iron previously diluted with the re-
mainder of the water, stirring the mixture
during the addition. Then filter the liquid,
and wash the precipitate on the filter with
boiling water until the washings pass nearly
tasteless. Lastly, dry it, and rub it into fine
powder. It may also be made by adding
protosulphate of iron to a mixture of yellow
prussiate of potash, chloride of soda, and hy-
drochloric acid. This, mixed with water,
makes an excellent bluing.
2675. Prussian Blue. Percyanide,
ferrocyanide, or ferroprussiate of iron. Com-
mercial Prussian blue is made by adding to a
solution of prussiate of potash (or of prussiate
cake), a solution of 2 parts alum and 1 part
sulphate of iron, washing the precipitate re-
peatedly with water to which a little muriatic
acid has been added, and exposing it to the
air till it assumes a deep blue color. A purer
kind is made by adding a solution of persul-
phate or perchloride of iron to a solution of
pure ferroprussiate of potash. (See No.
2674.)
2676. Action of Prussia Acid on Iron
Solutions. The Germans call prussic acid
blausaure, because it produces a blue precipit-
ate in certain iron solutions; but the folio-wing
experiment undoubtedly proves that the pi'us-
sic acid does not produce the color of that
precipitate, since it can be made just as well
without it. Prepare a saturated solution of
green vitriol in water. Take f parts of the
above solution and treat it with nitric and
sulphuric acids, until it is changed into the
sulphate of peroxide of iron. Mix this with
the remaining ? of the first solution, then add
very gradually (to avoid its becoming heated)
concentrated sulphuric acid, until a precipitate
is formed. The result will be a beautiful blue
precipitate, equal to Prussian blue. If water
is added, the precipitate is dissolved and the
color destroyed ; but if the precipitate is
separated from the acid and rubbed with
phosphate of soda, we obtain a beautiful
blue phosphate of iron, which will resist the
action of water. la all these cases the acids,
which possess no color, are by no means the
cause of the blue color, but favor only the
production of it, by depriving the mixed
hydrates of protoxide and peroxide of iron
of certain equivalents of water, and likewise
by preventing the same from entering into a
higher state of oxidation in the atmosphere.
2677. To Make Carmine by the
Langlois Process. Boiling river water, 4
gallons; cochineal in powder, 1 pound; boil
for 10 minutes, then add £ ounce carbonate
soda, dissolved in 1 pound water ; boil again
for | an hour ; cool, add f ounce alum in fine
powder, agitato rapidly until it be dissolved,
then let it stand for 20 minutes, after which
carefully decant into another vessel. The
white of 2 eggs, dissolved in 1 pint water, is
now to be added, and the whole well agitated ;
apply heat until the liquor be clarified, then
draw it off, and allow it to repose for -J an
hour, or longer, when the clear portion must
be decanted, and the carmine that has been
deposited at the bottom collected, and placed
upon a filter to drain. "When it has acquired
the consistence of a paste, remove it from the
filter with an ivory or silver knife, and finish
the drying upon shallow plates, covered with
silver paper.
2678. To Make Carmine by Cenette's
Process. The following is the method em-
ployed by Madame Cenette : Finest cochineal,
reduced to powder, 2 pounds ; pure river wa-
ter, boiling hot, 15 gallons ; boil for 2 hours,
then add refined saltpetre, bruised, 3 ounces;
boil for 3 minutes longer, and add 4 ounces
of salts of sorrel (binoxalate of potassa).
Boil for 10 minutes longer, then remove the
heat, and allow the liquor to settle for 4 hours,
when it must be decanted with a syphon into
shallow plates, and set aside for 3 weeks. At
the end of this time, the film of mould formed
on the surface must be dexterously and care-
fully removed, without breaking it or disturb-
ing the liquid portion. The latter must be
now removed with a syphon, and the remain-
ing moisture drained off, or sucked up with
a pipette. The carmine which is left behind
must be dried in the shade, and will be found
to possess extraordinary lustre and beauty.
2679. To Revive or Brighten Car-
mine. "We may brighten ordinary carmine
and obtain a very fine and clear pigment, by
dissolving it in water of ammonia. For this
purpose leave ammonia upon carmine in the
heat of the sun till its color is extracted and
the liquor has got a fine red tinge. It must
then be drawn off and precipitated by acetic
acid and alcohol, next washed with alcohol,
and dried. Liquid carmine is a solution of
carmine in ammonia.
PIGMENTS.
24,9
2680. Adulteration of Cochineal.
Genuine cochineal has a specific gravity of
1.25; it is commonly increased in •weight by
slightly moistening it with gum water, and
then rouncing it in a bag, first with sulphate
of baryta, and then with finely powdered
bone-black. In this way its specific gravity
is raised to 1.35, by introducing about 12 per
cent, of useless matter.
2681. Kirchoff's Method of Making
Vermilion. This is said to yield vermilion
equal to the Chinese. Rub in a porcelain
dish 100 parts mercury with 23 parts flowers
of sulphur, moistening the mixture with a
solotion of caustic potash. Next treat it with
53 parts hydrate of potash, mixed with an
equal weight of water; warm it up and tritur-
ate it again. The water must be replaced as
it evaporates, and the operation continued for
2 hours. The whole is now to be evaporated
to a thin paste, during constant trituration,
and the heat removed the moment the color
is of a good tint. Even a few seconds too
much or too little will injure the result.
"When cold, the mass is washed with a solution
of potash, and afterwards with pure water,
and finally dried.
2682. To Preserve Vermilion. It is a
fact well known to artists that the splendidly
bright color of vermilion (cinnabar, sulphide
of mercury ) has a tendency, especially if it
has been mixed with white lead, to become
blackish brown and very dark-colored in a
comparatively short time. This tendency is
altogether obviated if, previous to being
mixed with oil, it is thoroughly and intimately
mingled with flowers of sulphur, in the pro-
portion of 1 part sulphur to 8 parts vermilion.
2683. Carthamine or Safflower Lake.
Wash safflower till the water comes off color-
less; mix it with water holding 15 percent,
of carbonate of soda in solution, so as to form.
a thick paste; leave it for several hours, then
press out the red liquid, and nearly neutralize
it with acetic acid. !N"ext put cotton into it,
and add successive small portions of acetic
acid, so as to prevent the liquid becoming
alkaline. In 24 hours take out the cotton,
wash it, and digest it for half an hour in wa-
ter holding 5 per cent, of crystallized carbon-
ate of soda in solution. Immediately on re-
moving the cotton, supersaturate the liquid
with citric acid, and collect the precipitate,
which must be repeatedly washed in cold wa-
ter. For pink saucers the liquid is allowed to
deposit in the saucers. Mixed with the
scrapings of French chalk it constitutes rouge.
2684. Lakes are also obtained from
Brazil-wood and madder, by adding alum to a
concentrated decoction of the former, or to a
cold infusion of the latter (made by triturating
the madder, inclosed in a bag, with the water),
and afterwards sufficient subcarbonate of pot-
ash or soda to throw down the alumina in com-
bination with the coloring matter. The pre-
cipitate is to be washed and dried. A little
solution of tin added with the alum improves
the color. Lakes may be obtained from most
vegetable coloring matters by means of alum
and an alkaline carbonate. Yellow lake is
made from French or Persian berries, by boil-
ing them in water with a little soda or potash,
and adding alum to the strained liquor as long
as a precipitate is thrown down. Or by
| boiling weld, or quercitron bark, in water,
and adding alum and chalk in a pasty state.
2685. Rose Pink. Boil 6 pounds
Brazil-wood and- 2 pounds peach-wood in
water, with J pound alum, and pour the
strained decoction on 20 pounds sifted whi-
tening.
2686. Sap Green. The expressed juice
of buckthorn berries (and sometimes of other
species of rhamnus, and also of privet berries)
is allowed to settle, and the clear liquid evan-
orated to dryness. A little gum-arabic is
sometimes added to the juice.
2687. Azure Blue, or Smalts. The com-
mon qualities are made by fusing zaffre (roasted
cobalt ore calcined with siliceous sand) with
potash. A finer quality is obtained by pre-
cipitating a solution of sulphate of cobalt,
by a solution of silicate of potash. Another
cobalt blue is obtained by adding a solution
of phosphate of soda to a solution of nitrate of
cobalt, and mixing the precipitate, washed,
but not dried, with 8 times its weight of fresh
hydrated alumina. When dry, heat it to a
cherry red. It is permanent, but has little
body. If ground too fine it loses its beautiful
tint. It can be employed in fresco and sili-
cious painting. It is not affected by sulphur-
etted hydrogen.
2688. Blue Verditer. It is generally
stated to be made by adding chalk to a solu-
tion of nitrate of copper produced in the pro-
cess of refining silver ; but Mr. Phillips did
not succeed in making it by this means, and
found no lime in the best samples. This
pigment is acted upon by suphurretted hydro-
gen; it should not be used in oil, and though
more stable in water, it is hardly a pigment
for high art work. Certain blues are made
from the natural blue basic carbonate of cop-
per, and from malachite, but they have no
interest for the artist.
2689. New Blue. Mix equal parts of
common arseniate of copper (see Mineral
Green, No. 2711), and neutral arseniate of
potash, fuse by heat in a large crucible, then
add to the fused salt £ its weight of nitre.
Effervescence takes place, and the salt be-
comes blue. Cool, pulverize, and wash.
2690. Cobalt Blue. Thenard's blue is
made by precipitating a soluble cobalt salt
with a solution of alum, and heating the pre-
cipitate. "When well made, it is a good per-
manent color, useful in oil and water. It can
also be employed in fresco and silicious paint-
ing. It is, however, somewjiat affected by
light, losing its brilliancy slightly.
2691. Eisner's Preparation of Zinc
Green. Sprinkle with water a mrxture of 5
parts oxide of zinc and 1 part of sulphate of
cobalt, dry the pulp thus obtained, then heat
to redness. A deep green powder is obtained.
If 10 parts oxide of zinc, and 1 part sulphate
of cobalt be employed, the product is grass
green in color ; the same color, only lighter,
is obtained when the latter proportion of zinc
oxide is again doubled. These colors, es-
pecially the latter, may replace to advantage
Schweinfurt green; they apply well on a
coating of lime.
2692. Bistre. This is a brown color
which is used in water-color painting. It is
prepared from the root of beech-wood by
washing away the soluble parts with water.
25 O
PIGMENTS.
The insoluble residue is mixed with gum wa-
ter and formed into cakes.
2693. White Lead. This pigment,
which enters largely into the composition of
various colored paints, is carbonate of lead,
obtained by suspending rolls of thin sheet lead
over malt vinegar or pyroligneous acid in close
vessels, the evaporation of the acid being in-
duced and sustained by the heat of a steam-
bath or other appliances.
2694. Test for White Lead. Commer-
cial carbonate of lead is never quite pure, being
commonly adulterated with sulphate of baryta,
(heavy spar), and sometimes with chalk. The
former may be detected by its insolubility in
dilute nitric acid, and the latter by the nitric
solution yielding awhite precipitate with oxalic
or sulphuric acid, or oxalate of ammonia, after
having been treated with sulphuretted hy-
drogen, or a hydrosulphuret, to throw down
the lead. (Cooley.)
2695. Simple Test for White Lead.
Take a piece ot firm, close-grained charcoal,
and, near one end of it, scoop out a cavity
about ^ inch in diameter and J inch in depth.
Place in the cavity a sample of the lead to be
tested, about the size of a small pea, and apply
to it continuously the blue or hottest part of
the flame of a blow-pipe; if the sample be
strictly pure, it will in a very short time, say
in 2 minutes, be reduced to metallic lead, leav-
ing no residue ; but if adulterated to the ex-
tent of 10 per cent, only with oxide of zinc,
sulphate of baryta, whiting or any other car-
bonate of lime (which substances are now*the
only adulterations used), or if it be composed
entirely of these materials, as is sometimes the
case with cheap lead, it cannot be reduced, but
will remain on the charcoal an infusible mass.
Itis well, after bio wing upon the sample, say for
J a minute, by which time the oil will be burned
off, to loosen the sample from the charcoal
with a knife blade or spatula, in order that
the flame may pass under as well as over and
against it. "VVith proper care the lead will
run into one button, instead of scattering over
the charcoal, and this is the reason why
the cavity above mentioned is necessary. A
common stearine candle or a lard oil lamp
furnishes the best flame for use of the blow-
pipe ; the flame of a coal oil lamp should not
be used.
2696. Zinc White (oxide of zinc) is a
permanent pigment; is not affected by sul-
phuretted hydrogen ; does not form soap with
oils and fats, therefore it retains its opacity ;
does not decompose other pigments, and if
used with proper vehicles retains its white-
ness. It is the best and safest white that can
be used. It is most durable in silicious paint-
ing, as it forms chemical compounds with pot-
ash and silica.
• 2697. Sulphate of Baryta, called bary-
tes and constant white, is yery_ permanent, of
a bluish tint ; has no body in oil, but is a good
white in fresco, silicious, and water-color
painting. Chemically it has no action on
other colors, and is not itself affected by any
ordinary destructive agent. It is a natural
product, called heavy spar.
2698. PfundheUer's Method of Ob-
taining Barytes White. For each 100
pounds of wool, 3 pounds alum, 1 pound cream
of tartar, and 2 pounds sulphuric acid are to
be combined with £ ounce of soluble iodine
violet, and the wool immersed in the solution
at a temperature of 122° Pahr., and stirred
round for an hour at this temperature. An-
other bath is to be made in the meantime, in
a fresh kettle, with 3 pounds chloride of ba-
rium, and the whole immersed in this, and
kept at a temperature of 122° Fahr., for two
hours. By this process the sulphate of bary-
tes, the most beautiful of whites, will bo
thrown down in the fibre of the wool, which
has been saturated in the first bath with the
sulphuric acid, and it will gain about eighteen
per cent, in weight.
2699. Cremnitz White, a beautiful
white, with less body than ordinary white
lead ; it is, doubtless, made by precipitation ;
it, like ordinary white lead, decomposes sul-
phides, and is decomposed by sulphuretted
hydrogen.
2700. Cadmium Yellow, Bed, etc.
These are sulphides of cadmium, and, when
well prepared, are very stable; they can be
used in fresco and silicious painting. It is
mentioned elsewhere that cadmium sulphide
decomposes emerald green. (See No. 2712.)
It is not safe to use it with lead pigments, un-
less it has been most carefully prepared ; and
here, inasmuch as decomposition may, take
place, and lead sulphide, which is black, be
formed, it is better to avoid the mixture ; no
such mixture can occur in fresco or silicious
painting, and it would be well if there were
no chance of its occurring in any other style
of painting, by the banishment of white lead
from the nst of artists' pigments. No other
salts of cadmium are important as pigments.
2701. Green Oxide of Chromium.
This oxide is perfectly stable, and, as so many
tints of it can be obtained, including the beau-
tiful vividian, it can be used in all vehicles, and
is perfectly permanent in fresco and tdlicious
painting. Other chromium compounds are
used in painting ; the chromates of lead have
already been treated of. Chromate of barytes
is a good, safe pigment; it is used under" the
name of lemon yellow. It is permanent in
fresco and silicious painting. The chromates
generally are unstable colors, and, as there are
so many other good yellows, they should not
be used as pigments.
2702. The Ochres are earths colored by
oxide of iron. The natural color of these
earths is yellow, but by burning they get
darker, and some become red. Indian red,
red ochre, light red, etc., are all earths with
more or less of the oxide of iron in them. All
the ochres are permanent and stable if they
have been well prepared. They may be used
safely in every style of painting.
2703. Colcothar is also an oxide of iron ;
it is very permanent, and generally useful as a
pigment. It can be ^obtained of different
tints. It is, however, especially useful in
fresco and silicious painting.
2704. Venetian Bed, as now prepared,
is an iron red ; but, whether from adulteration
or not, it contains lime; and, as it is made
from the sulphate of iron, sulphate of lime
gets formed, and this prevents its employment
in silicious pain ting, for with silicate of potas-h
a silicate of lime is immediately formed, and
it becomes hard and lumpy. It may be used
in oil, water, and fresco.
PIGMENTS.
251
2705. Chrome Yellow. To a solution
of bichromate of potash, add a solution of
nitrate of lead as long as a precipitate
forms. 'Wash the precipitate, and dry it with
a gentle heat. An inferior kind is said to be
made by 4 pounds pure white lead, 1 pound
bichromate of potash, and 20 pounds water,
and boiling till the water becomes colorless.
Or 75 parts of precipitated sulphate of lead
may be acted on by 25 parts of a hot solution
of neutral chromate of potash. A mixed pro-
duct of chromate and sulphate of lead is thus
obtained, which is said to cover as well as
the pure chrome, and is much cheaper. (Riot. )
2706. Chrome Red. Melt saltpetre
in a crucible heated to dull redness, and
add chrome yellow, by small portions, till no
more red fumes arise. Allow the mixture to
settle, then pour off the melted salt from the
heavy sediment, and wash the latter with
water, which should be quickly poured off,
and dry the pigment. The liquefied salt
poured off contains chromate of potash, and
is reserved for making chrome yellow.
2707. Orange Chrome is chrome yel-
low acted on by an alkali, which deprives it
of part of the chromic acid. All the chromes
are chromates of lead, and are therefore liable
to be blackened by sulphuretted hydrogen.
When used with oil, they may, with care, re-
tain their color for a long time, the oxidized
oil protecting them from the action of sul-
phuretted hydrogen. They cannot be used
in silicious, fresco, or any other method of
water painting. They are destroyed by alka-
lies ; they should never be used with Prussian
blue or kindred colors. On the whole, it
would be as well for artists to reject them, as
better and safer pigments can be employed
for the same purpose as they are.
2708. Aureolin Yellow. An excellent
pigment in every respect. It is a double
nitrate of potassium and cobalt. It is not
acted upon by lime or by potash ; it is, there-
fore, a good pigment for fresco and sili-
cious painting. It may be used with safety
in oil and in water. Sulphuretted hydrogen
does not affect it, and it is permanent when
submitted to the severest tests. It is not
affected by admixture with other colors.
2709. Naples Yellow. Mix 12 parts
metallic antimony, 8 parts red lead, and 4
oxide of zinc, and calcine in a reverberatory
furnace. The mixed oxides are rubbed to-
gether, fused, and the fused mass elutriated
into a fine powder. (Dr. Ure.) M. Guimel
recommends 1 part well-washed antimoniate
of potash to be ground into a paste with 2
parts red lead, and the powder exposed to a
red heat for 4 or 5 hours, keeping the heat
moderate. This is a good pigment, and may
safely be used with oil.
2710. Brunswick Green. Pour a
saturated solution of muriate of ammonia
over copper filings in a close vessel placed
in a warm situation ; add more of the solution
from time to time till 3 parts of the muriate
have been used to 2 of copper. After stand-
ing for a few weeks the pigment is separated
from the unoxidized copper by washing
through a sieve. It is then to be well washed,
and dried slowly in the shade. It is often
reduced with white lead ; some samples con-
tain arsenic.
2711. Mineral Green, Scheele's Green,
or Arsenite of Copper. Dissolve 11 ounces
white arsenic and 2 pounds carbonate of pot-
ash, by heat, in a gallon of water. Dissolve
also 2 pounds sulphate of copper in 3 gallons
water. Filter each solution separately, and
add the former gradually to the latter as long
as it occasions a precipitate. "Wash the pre-
cipitate, drain it, and dry it.
2712. Emerald Green. Mix 10 parts
nuro verdigris with sufficient boiling water to
form a soft pulp, and strain this through a
sieve. Dissolve 9 or 10 parts white arsenic in
100 parts boiling water, and, whilst boiling,
let the verdigris pulp be gradually added, con-
stantly stirring the mixture till the precipitate
becomes a heavy granular powder. It is, on
the whole, a permanent color. It should not
be used with cadmium yellow, as that is a
sulphide, and with it forms sulphide of copper,
which is brown. It is a good oil pigment
when properly used ; it has but little body.
It answers well in water-color painting ; it
cannot, however, be used in fresco or silicious
painting.
2713. Green without Arsenic. Dis-
solve 48 pounds sulphate of copper and 2
pounds bichromate of potash in water, and
add to the clear solution 2 pounds pearlash
and 1 pound chalk.
2714. Rininann's Green Pigment.
Dissolve together in sufficient water 1 part
sulphate of cobalt and 3 sulphate of zinc ;
precipitate with carbonate of soda, wash the
precipitate, and calcine it. It is a permanent
color.
2715. Chrome Green. A mixture of
chrome yellow and Prussian blue. (See No.
2707.)
2716. Black for Miniature Painters.
Take camphor, and set it on fire, and collect
the soot by means of a saucer or paper funnel
inverted over it. This black, mixed with
gum-arabic, is far superior to most India-ink.
2717. To Make Lampblack. This
can be prepared on a small scale in the fol-
lowing manner: Suspend over a lamp a
conical funnel of tin plate, having above it a
pipe to convey from the apartment the smoke
which escapes from the lamp. Large mush-
room-like concretions of a very black carbon-
aceous matter, and exceedingly light, will be
formed at the summit of the cone, and must
be collected from time to time. This black
may be rendered less oily and drier by calcin-
ation in close vessels. The funnel should be
united to the pipe, which conveys off the
smoke, by means of wire, because solder
would be melted by the flame of the lamp.
2718. Indian Bed, or Crocus. This is
made from jeweler's rouge, by subjecting the
scarlet calcined sesquioxide of iron to a fur-
ther calcination at a very intense heat. It is
then known as purple brown.
2719. Ivory-Black. Burn shavings
and waste pieces of ivory in a covered crucible,
till no more smoke issues. Cover it closely
while cooling. It should be afterwards
washed with diluted muriatic acid, then with
water till no longer acid, dried, and again
heated in a covered crucible. It is of a deeper
color than bone-black, and is used as a pig-
ment, a tooth powder, and to decolorize
syrups and other liquids.
DRYING OILS AND DRYERS.
2720. To Make Purple of Cassius.
This is a verifiable pigment, which, stains
glass and porcelain a beautiful red or purple
hue. Its preparation is one of great nicety,
and is liable to fail even in the most experi-
enced hands. Mix together separate solutions
of 1 part crystallized protochloride of tin, and
2 parts crystallized perchloride of tin; this
mixture, added to a solution of 1 part crystal-
lized chloride of gold, makes a beautiful pur-
ple colored precipitate, which should imme-
diately be washed, filtered, and dried. An
excess of the protochloride produces a blue,
yellow, or greenish tinge ; the perchloride in
excess gives a red or violet cast.
2721. French Purple of Cassius.
This is similar in preparation to the last re-
ceipt, but differs in one ingredient employed,
substituting perchloride of iron for the per-
chloride of tin. This purple keeps in the air
unaltered for a long time.
2722. Purple of Cassius. To a moder-
ately dilute solution of sesquichloride of iron,
add a solution of protochlonde of tin, until the
mixture becomes green, and dilute the mix-
ture with an equal bulk of water. Next pre-
pare a solution of terchloride of gold, as neu-
tral as possible, in the proportion of 1 part
* gold in 360 parts water ; then add the tin so-
lution, with constant stirring, as long as any
precipitate is produced. "Wash the precipitate
as quickly as possible by decantation, and dry
at a gentle heat.
2723. Buisson's Preparation of Pur-
ple of Cassius. Two solutions of tin are re-
quired. The first consists of a neutral solu-
tion of 1 part tin in nitric acid. The second is
made by dissolving 2 parts tin in a mixture
of 1 part hydrochloric acid with 3 parts nitric
acid; a little heat may be cautiously applied
towards the end of this process, to present
any protoxide of tin from remaining in the
solution.
Next dissolve 7 parts gold in an aqua-regia
composed of 6 parts hydrochloric acid and 1
part nitric acid ; and mix the solution at once
with 3500 parts water; then add the whole of
the second tin solution, subsequently adding by
degrees the first tin solution, ceasing the mo-
ment the right color is obtained. Too little
will produce a violet color ; too much, a brown.
"Wash the precipitate very quickly, and dry.
"When dry it appears brown.
2724. Improved Vehicles for Col-
ors. One measure of saturated solution of
borax, with 4 of linseed oil. The pigment
may be ground with the oil or the mixture.
Or, a solution of shellac with borax, as in
making Coathupe's ink. (See No. 2484.)
2725. Improved Vehicles for Water
Colors. "Water colors, mixed with gelatine,
and afterwards fixed by washing with a solu-
tion of alum, or; curd of milk, washed and
pressed, then dried on fine net, and when re-
quired for use, mixed with water and the col-
oring matter.
Drying Oils and Dryers.
All the fixed oils have an attraction
more or less powerful for oxygen; and, by
exposure to the air, they either become hard
and resinous or sour and rancid. Those
•which exhibit the first property in a marked
degree, as the oils of linseed, poppy, rape, and
walnut, are called drying oils, and are used as
vehicles for colors in painting. The dry-
ing property of oils is greatly increased by
boiling them, either alone or with litharge,
sugar of lead, etc., when the product forms
the boiled oil or drying oil of commerce. The
litharge and sulphate of lead employed for
this purpose, maybe again used, after washing
them in hot water, to remove adhering muci-
lage. "When paints are mixed with raw oil,
as is frequently the case in house painting, the
drying quality is obtained by the addition of
compositions called dryers. These are gener-
ally made from Japan varnish, sugar of lead,
litharge, etc., and are necessary in such paints
as are preferably prepared without boiled oil.
2727. Dark Colored Boiled Oil. Sim-
mer with frequent stirring, 1 gallon of linseed
oil, with £ pound powdered litharge, until a
skin begins to form ; then remove the scum,
and when it has become cold and has settled,
decant the clear portions. This is for house
painters' use.
2728. Pale Boiled Oil. Boil 1 quart
linseed oil, and 2 ounces powdered white vit-
riol (sulphate of zinc), with 1 quart water,
until the water has all evaporated ; settle and
decant as in the last receipt.
2729. Very Pale Drying Oil. Mix 2
ounces finely powdered litharge, or dry sul-
phate of lead, with 1 pint pale linseed or nut
oil; agitate frequently for 10 days, then set
the bottle in the sun or in a warm place to set-
tle. "When clear, decant it.
2730. Colorless Drying Oil for Paint.
Take 5 gallons water, heat it to the boiling
point in a vessel 'holding 15 gallons ; when
about to boil add 5 gallons linseed oil and 1
pound red lead. Keep it constantly boiling
and stirred up for 2 hours over a'slow fire.
If not constantly stirred the lead will sink to
the bottom and cause the oil to spatter. It
is then taken from the fire and left to settle,
when it will be found that the oil is clear and
colorless.
2731. Mulder's Colorless Drying Oil.
Boil linseed oil for two hours with 3 per cent,
of red lead ; filter it, and expose it to the sun-
shine in large shallow vessels, with a glass
covering, frequently removing the cover to re-
new the air.
2732. To Make Boiled Oil Clear and
Bright. There is often a difficulty in obtain-
ing the oils brigh t after boiling or heating them
with the lead solutions. The best way on a
small scale is either to filter the boiled oil
through coarse woolen filtering paper, or to
expose it in a bottle for some time to the sun
or in a warm place. In larger quantities, the
oil may be filtered through Canton flannel
bags.
2733. Artists' Drying Oil. Mix nut
or pale linseed oil with about an equal measure
of snow or powdered ice, and keep it for 2
months at a freezing temperature.
2734. Boiled Oil Specially Adapted
for Zinc Paint. Mix 1 part binoxide of
manganese, in coarse powder, but not dusty,
with 10 partsnut or linseed oil; keep it gently
heated and frequently stirred for about 30
hours, or until the oil begins to turn reddish.
The oil thus prepared will also answer for any
paint.
HOUSE PAINTING.
253
2735. New Drying Oil without Boil-
ing. Mix with old linseed oil (the older the
better), 2 per cent, of its weight of manganese
borate (this salt is readily prepared by precip-
jtatinga solution of sulphateof manganese with
a solution of borax, wash the precipitate, and
dry it either at the ordinary temperature of
the air or at 100°), and heat this mixture on a
water-bath ; or, if you have to work with large
quantities, with a steam-bath to 100°, or at
most 110°; you thus obtain a very excellent,
light-colored, rapidly drying oil; by keeping
the mixture stirred, that is to say, by always
exposing fresh portions to air, the drying prop-
erty of the oil is greatly promoted. The ra-
pidity of the drying of the oil after it has been
mixed with parnt, on surfaces besmeared there-
with, does not simply depend upon the drying
property of the oil, but, in a very great mea-
sure, upon the state of the atmosphere — viz.,
whether dry or moist, hot or cold — the direct
action of sunlight, and the state of the surfaces
on which the paint is brought. Keally gen-
uine boiled linseed oil, if well prepared, leaves
nothing to be desired as regards rapidity of
drying, but it is retarded by various substan-
ces which are added in practice, among which,
especially, oil of turpentine is injurious.
2736. Dryers for Dark-Colored
Paints. This is prepared by grinding the best
litharge to a paste with drying oil. A small
portion is beaten up with the paint, when
mixing with oil and turpentine for use.
2737. Dryers for Light-Colored
Paints. Sulphate of zinc, or sugar of lead,
mixed with drying oil, and used in the same
way as the litharge in the last receipt. /
2738. Dryers for White Paint. Mix
1 pound each sulphate of zinc and sugar of
lead, with 2 pounds pure white (carbonate of)
lead, and apply as in the last receipts.
2739. Patent Dryer. Mix the following
ingredients to a paste with linseed oil : 15
pounds dry sulphate of zinc, 4 pounds sugar of
lead, and 7 pounds litharge. The mixture
should be passed 3 or 4 times through a paint
mill. "When a tin of this is in use, the surface
should be always smoothed down level, and
kept covered with a thin layer of linseed oil.
2740. Dryer for Zinc 'White. Mix to-
gether thoroughly 10 parts each sulphate of
manganese, acetate of manganese, and sulphate
of zinc, with 14f parts zinc white. An addi-
tion of 2 or 3 per cent, of this dryer to zinc
white oil paint will make it dry hard.
2741. To Make Japan Dryer. Into 1
gallon linseed oil, put f pound gum shellac;
i pound each litharge, burned umber, and red
lead; and 6 ounces sugar of lead. Boil together
for 4 hours, or until all the ingredients are dis-
solved. Remove from the fire and add 1 gal-
lon spirits of turpentine.
2742. Cheap Japan Dryer. Mix to-
gether 4 gallons pure linseed oil; 4 pounds
each litharge and red lead; and 2 pounds pow-
dered raw umber. Boil slowly for 2 hours,
add by degrees 7£ pounds shellac, and boil £
hour longer; when well mixed, add by degrees
1 pound powdered sulphate of zinc, and when
nearly cold mix in thoroughly 7 gallons spirits
of turpentine.
2743. To Make Paint Dry Quickly.
To make paint dry quickly use a large propor-
tion of Japan varnish in mixing.
2744. Massicot. Yellow protoxide of
lead. The dross that forms on melted lead
exposed to a current of air, roasted until it
acquires a uniform yellow color. Used as a
pigment, and in glazing. ( Cooley).
House Painting. The follow-
ing directions are obtained from a
thoroughly practical source, and will be found
useful both to the amateur and the workman.
2746. Priming. The same paint is used
for the first coat in outside and inside work ;
it should be as thick as will work conveniently,
and requires only litharge for dryers. The
paint should not be laid on too thickly, and
well worked in with the brush.
2747. Priming for Iron Work. This
must be oil color laid on a surface freed from
rust. For paper and canvas, a coat of size
takes the place of priming, as paint rots these
materials.
2748. Puttying. This consists in filling
up all nail-heads and cracks with putty, by a
putty knife ; and should always be done after
priming.
2749. Second Coat for Outside Work.
Mix the paint with raw oil, as thick as it can
be used freely. Cover the surface, work it
across to even it, and finish longways with
long, light sweeps of the brush.
2750. Third Coat for Outside Work.
The paint should be mixed with oil, a little
thinner than for the second coat ; laid on very
evenly, and not too thickly, and finished as
smooth as possible.
2751. Second Coat for Inside Work.
The paint for this coat should be mixed with
raw oil and turpentine, about equal parts, and
be as thick as will work freely ; laid on thinly
and well crossed and finished to prepare a
smooth surface, with as few ridges as possible,
for the next coat.
2752. Third Coat for Inside Work.
Mix the paint thinner than for the last coat,
using but little oil, and more turpentine ; laid
on thinly and well finished, so as to leave no
brush marks.
2753. Fourth Coat or Flatting for
Inside Work. The paint is mixed with
turpentine only, and thin enough to spread or
flow even, before it sets ; lay on evenly and
quickly, brushing lengthways only, and finish-
ing up as the work proceeds, as this paint sets
quickly, and spots touched up afterwards are
apt to be glossy.
2754. Drawn Flatting for a Fourth
Coat. The oil in which the white lead or
other paint is ground, is drawn out by mixing
with turpentine, allowing the paint to settle,
and then pouring on0 the liquid; repeating
the operation with fresh turpentine till the oil
has been completely washed out. This makes
a better color, without gloss, and easily flow-
ing. As it sets very quickly it must be ap-
plied thickly, evenly, and quickly, with closed
doors and windows, to avoid a draught.
2755. When to Apply Paint. Paint,*
to last long, should be put on early in winter
or spring, when it is cold and no dust flying.
Paint put on in cold weather forms a body or
coat upon the surface of the wood that be-
254
HOUSE PAINTING.
comes hard and resists weather, or an edged
tool even, like slate.
2756. General Directions for House
Painting. Oil paint dries with a gloss, tur-
pentine makes a dead surface ; and, in nsiug
paints containing both oil and turpentine, the
gloss will be less as the proportion of oil is
diminished. Paint requires more dryer in cold
than in hot weather, but is more durable in out-
side work if applied in cold weather. Suc-
cessive coats of paint should have at least a
day intervene between them for drying. Dark
colors should have a glossy finish. Before
commencing to paint, the surface must be
perfectly dry. The paint must be thoroughly
mixed, both before commencing and during
the progress of the work; if this is neglected,
the heavy ingredients are apt to settle, leav-
ing a larger proportion of oil and turpentine
on the surface.
2757. Painter's Size. Stir a small
quantity of litharge and red lead into some
boiled oil ; let it stand, shaking frequently
until bleached ; then bottle. Kaw oil makes
a slower drying size.
2758. Best Painter's Size. Heat raw
oil in a pan till it emits a black smoke ; set it
on fire, and, after burning for a few minutes,
cover the pan over to put out the blaze; pour
the oil while warm into a bottle in which
some pulverized red lead and litharge have
been introduced. Stand the bottle in a warm
place for two weeks, shaking often. It will
then be ready to decant and bottle.
2759. To Paint Zinc. A difficulty is
often experienced in causing oil colors to ad-
here to sheet zinc. Boettger recommends the
employment of a mordant, so to speak, of the
following composition: 1 part chloride of
copper, 1 of nitrate of copper, and 1 of sal-am-
moniac are to be dissolved in 64 parts of water,
to which solution is to be added 1 part of
commercial hydrochloric acid. The sheets of
zinc are to be brushed over with this liquid,
which gives them a deep black .color ; in the
course of from 12 to 24 hours they become
dry, and to their now dirty gray surface a
coat of any oil color will firmly adhere. Some
sheets of zinc prepared in this way, and after-
wards painted, have been found to withstand
all the changes of winter and summer.
2760. Polish White. This is made by
grindingdry zinc-white with white varnish,nnd
affords a beautiful glossy finish, to be laid on
after the second coat. A more perfect surface
may be obtained by covering the second coat
with several other coats of hard drying paint,
mixed with turpentine, Japan and litharge ;
then rubbing down with pumice-stone, fol-
lowed by a coat of polish white, and finished
with a flow coat of white varnish containing
a little zinc-white. Although this requires
more time and trouble, the result will fully
compensate for it. It is necessary to remark
that when the last coat is to be glossy, the
previous coat must be flat or dead; and a flat
coat for finishing should be preceded by a
somewhat glossy coat.
2761. To Mix Oil Colors. In mixing
different colored paints to produce any desired
tint, it is best to have the principal ingredient
thick, and add to it the other paints thinner.
In the following table of the combinations of
colors required to produce a required tint,
the first named color is the principal ingre-
dient, and the others follow in the order of
their importance. Thus, in mixing a lime-
stone tint, white is the principal ingredient,
and red the color of which least is needed,
<fec. The exact proportions of each depending
on the shade of color required.
2762. Table of Compound Colors,
Showing the Simple Colors which
Produce them.
Buff "White, Yellow Ochre, Ked
Chestnut Eed, Black, Yellow
Chocolate Eaw Umber, Eed, Black
Claret Eed, Umber, Black
Copper Eed, Yellow, Black
Dove "White, Termilion, Blue, Yellow
Drab "White, Yellow Ochre, Eed, Black
Fawn White, Yellow, Eed
Flesh "White, Yellow Ochre, Vermilion
Freestone.. Eed, Black, Yellow Ochre, "White
French Gray.. ..White, Prussian Blue, Lake
Gray White Lead, Black
Gold White, Stone Ochre, Eed
Green Bronze .. Chrome Green, Black, Yellow
Do Pea White, Chrome Green
Lemon White, Chrome Yellow
Limestone. -White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Eed
Olive Yellow, Blue, Black, White
Orange Yellow, Eed
Peach White, Vermilion
Pearl White, Black, Blue
Pink White, Vermilion, Lake
Purple Violet, with more Eed and White
Eose White, Madder Lake
Sandstone ..White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Eed
Snuff Yellow, Vandyke Brown
Violet.. . -Eed, Blue, White. (See No. 2761.)
2763. To Prepare Whitewashed
Walls for Painting. If there should be
any cracks in the plastering, and the wash be
sound around the cracks, plaster of Paris is
the best thing to fill them with, as it hardens
quickly, does not shrink, and leaves the sur-
lace level with the wall. If the plaster of
Paris sets before it can be worked, wet it
with vinegar. The stronger the acid, the
slower it will set. If cracks be filled with
putty, and the wall be painted in gloss color,
the streaks of putty are very apt to be flat
(no gloss), and if painted in flat color, the
streaks are quite sure to have a gloss. These
streaks, of course, will spoil the fccauty of the
work, but do not affect its durability. When
filled with plaster of Pads the reversion of
gloss never appears, if done as directed below.
If the cracks be only in the wash, the latter
is loosening from the wall ; and if it has not
begun to scale, it soon will, and all attempts
to fasten it on and paint it will be total loss.
If it be loose enough to scrape off, scrape the
wall, taking care not to gouge into the original
wall. If not loose enough, let it alone until
it is. If the wash be thin, solid, and even, it
can be painted to look and wear well. When
the surface is lumpy, rub the lumps off with
a sandstone, or a brick. After a wall has
been prepared, as in either of above cases, or
if a wall that has never been washed is to
be painted, size it with 2 coats of glue size (3
ounces glue to 1 gallon water). (See No.
2815.) Be sure the glue is all dissolved before
using any of it. Let the first coat dry before
the second coat is put on.
HOUSE PAINTING.
255
2764. To Paint Whitewashed Walls.
"When the second coat of glue size (see No.
27613) is dry, paint as? follows: Mix the first
coat of paint in the pi-oportion of 1 gallon raw
linseed oil to 15 pounds white lead, ground in
oil, and 1 gill of dryer. Second coat : 1 gal-
lon raw linseed oil, 25 pounds white lead
ground in oil, and \ gill dryer. (The lead
should be the best.) Then finish either in
gloss or flat color, the same as if it were wood
work with one good coat of priming. Shade
all the coats of paint, as near as you can, to
the color you wish to finish in. Mix the
third and fourth coats the same as the first,
that is, about the same thickness for a gloss
finish, and a little thinner for a flat, finish.
2765. Flexible Paint for Canvas.
Dissolve 2£ pounds good yellow soap, cut in
slices, in 1 i gallons boiling water ; grind the
solution while hot with 140 pounds good oil
paint.
2766. Durable Black Paint for Out-
Door Work. Grind powdered charcoal in
linseed oil, with sufficient litharge as drier;
thin for use with well-boiled linseed oil.
2767. Green Paint for Out-Door
Work. Add to the black paint, made ac-
cording to the last receipt, sufficient yellow
ochre to make the shade of green required.
This is preferable for garden work, to the
bright green paint generally used, as it does
not fade.
2768. Paint for Iron Work. There is
no production for iron work so efficacious as
well boiled linseed oil, properly laid on. The
iron should be first well cleaned and freed
from all rust and dirt ; the oil should be of
the best quality, and well boiled, without
litharge or any dryer being added. The iron
should be painted over with this, but the oil
must be laid on as bare as possible, and on this
fact depends in a great measure the success
of the application ; for if there be too thick a
coat of oil put upon the work, it will skin
over, be liable to blister, and scarcely ever
get hard ; but if iron be painted with three
coats of oil, and only so much put on each
coat as can be made to cover it by hard
brushing, we will guarantee that the same
will preserve the iron from the atmosphere
for a much longer time than any other process
of painting. If a dark coloring matter be
necessary, we prefer burnt umber to any
other pigment as a stain ; it is a good hard
dryer, and has many other good properties,
and mixes well with the oil without injuring it.
2769. Painting in Milk. In conse-
quence of the injury which has often resulted
to sick and weakly persons from the smell of
common paint, the following method of paint-
ing with milk has been adopted by some
workmen, which, for the interior of buildings,
besides being as free as distemper from any
offensive odor, is said to be nearly equal to
oil-painting in body and durability. Take 4
gallon skimmed milk, 6 ounces lime newly
slacked, 4 ounces poppy, linseed, or nut oil,
and 3 pounds Spanish white. Put the lime
into an earthen vessel or clean bucket, and
having poured on it a sufficient quantity of
milk to make it about the thickness of cream,
add the oil in small quantities at a time, stir-
ring the mixture with a wooden spatula.
Then put in the rest of the milk, and after-
wards the Spanish white. It is, in general,
indifferent which of the oils above mentioned
you use ; but, for pure white, oil of poppy is
the best. The oil in this composition, being
dissolved by the lime, wholly disappears;
and, uniting with the whole of the other in-
gredients, forms a kind of calcareous soap. In
putting in the Spanish white, be careful that it :
is finely powdered and strewed gently over
the surface of the mixture. It then, by de-
grees, imbibes the liquid and sinks to the
bottom. Milk skimmed in summer is often
found to be curdled ; but this is of no conse-
quence in the present preparation, as its com-
bining with the lime soon restores it to its
fluid state. But it must on no account be
sour ; because in that case it would, by uni-
ting with the lime, form an earthy salt, which
could not resist any degree of dampness in
the air.
2770. To Make Paint without Oil or
Lead. "Whiting, 5 pounds; skimmed milk,
2 quarts ; fresh slacked lime, 2 ounces. Put
the lime into a stone- ware vessel, pour upon
it a sufficient quantity of the milk to make a
mixture resembling cream; the balance of
the milk is then to be added ; and lastly the
whiting is to be crumbled upon the surface of
the fluid, in which it gradually sinks. At
this period it must be well stirred in, or ground
as you would other paint, and it is fit for use.
There may be added any coloring matter that
suits the fancy, to be applied in the same man-
ner as other paints, and in a few hours it will
become perfectly dry. Another coat may theii
be added, and so on until the work is done.
This paint is of great tenacity, bears rubbing
with a coarse cloth, has little smell, even
when wet, and when dry is inodorous. It
also possesses the merit of cheapness, the
above quantity being sufficient for 57 yards.
2771. Paint for Old Weather-Board-
ing, or Boat Bottoms. Take 5 gallons
boiled linseed oil, 4 gpllons raw oil, 1 gallon
benzine, and 80 pounds Kocky Mountain
vermilion.
2772. Fireproof Paint. Take a quan-
tity of the best quicklime, and slack with wa-
ter in a covered vessel ; when the slacking is
complete, water or skim milk, or a mixture
of both, should be added to the lime, and
mixed up to the consistency of cream ; then
there must be added, at the rate of 20 pounds
alum, 15 pounds potash, and 1 bushel salt to
every 100 gallons of creamy liquor. If the
paint is required to be white, 6 pounds plaster
of Paris, or the same quantity of fine white
clay, is to be added to the above propor-
tions of the other ingredients. All these
ingredients being mingled, the mixture must
then be strained through a fine sieve, and
afterwards ground in a color mill. "When,
roofs are to be covered, or when crumbling
brick walls are to be coated, fine white sand
is mixed with the paint, in the proportion
of 1 pound sand to 10 gallons of paint; this
addition being made with a view of giving the
ingredients a binding or petrifying quality.'
This paint should always be applied in a hot
state, and in very cold weather precautions
are necessary to keep it from freezing. Three
coats of this paint are deemed, in most cases,
sufficient. Any color may be obtained by
adding the usual pigments to the composition.
256
HOUSE PAINTING.
2773. To Paint an Old House. Take
3 gallons water and 1 pint flax seed ; boil £
hour; take it off and add water enough to
make 4 gallons ; let it stand to settle ; pour
off the water in a pail, and put in enough of
Spanish white to make it as thick as white-
wash ; then add ^ pint linseed oil ; stir it
well and apply with a brush. If the whiting
does not mix readily, add more water. Flax
seed, having the nature of oil, is better than
glue, and will not wash off as readily.
2774. Paint for Boilers. The best
paint for boilers is asphaltum dissolved in
spirits of turpentine over a gentle fire. Pul-
verize the asphaltum and dissolve as much
as will be taken up by the turpentine. If
pure it will last.
2775. To Reduce Paint Skins to Oil.
Dissolve i pound sal-soda in 1 gallon rain
water. The skins that dry upon the top of
paint which has been left standing for any
length of titne, may be made fit for use again
by covering them with the sal-soda water and
soaking them therein for a couple of days;
then heat them, adding oil to reduce the mix-
ture to a proper consistence for painting, and
strain.
2776. To Remove the Smell of New
Paint. Hay sprinkled with a little chloride
of lime, and left for an hour in a closed room,
will remove the smell of new paint.
2777. To Kill Knots before Painting.
A mixture of glue size and red lead ; or shel-
lac dissolved in alcohol and mixed with red
lead ; or gutta-percha dissolved in ether ; will,
either of them, make a good coating for knots,
but will not stand the sunshine, which will
draw the pitch through the paint. The best
method is to cover the knot with oil size, and
lay a leaf of silver over it.
'2778. To Kill Grease Spots Before
Painting. "Wash over smoky or greasy parts
with saltpetre, or very thin lime whitewash.
If soap-suds are used, they must be washed
off thoroughly, as they prevent the paint from
drying hard.
2779. To Make a Sticky Painted Sur-
face Hard. Rub it well in. with a brush,
with Japan and turpentine mixed together.
2780. To Prepare Plastered Walls for
Painting. Plastered and hard finished walls
must have a coating of glue size before paint-
ing. (See No. 2815.)
2781. To Economize Paint. Save all
the^skins, cleanings and scrapings of the paint
pots, and wipings out of the brushes; these,
boiled up in oil, make a cheap and durable
coating for outside work. (See No. 2775.)
2782. To Remove Smalt from Old
Signs. Spread over it, potash dissolved in
water, and then scrape the smalt off. If the
potash stands too long before scraping, it may
soak into the wood ; and paint afterwards put
on will not dry well.
2783. To Remove Putty from Glass.
Dip a small brush in nitric or mmiatic acid,
and with it paint over the dry putty that ad-
heres to the broken glasses and frames qf the
windows. After an hour's interval the putty
will have become so soft as to be easily re-
movable.
2784. To Soften Putty in Window
Frames. To soften putty in window frames,
so that the glass may be taken out without
breakage or cutting, take 1 pound American
pearlash, 3 pounds quick stone lime, slack the
lime in water, then add the pearlash, and
make the whole about the consistence of paint.
Apply it to both sides of the glass, and let it
remain for 12 hours, when the putty will be
so softened that the glass may be taken out of
the frame without being cut, and with the
greatest facilitv. (See No. 2786.)
2785. To Remove Hard Putty. This
may be effected with a paste of caustic potassa,
prepared by mixing the caustic alkali, or even
carbonate of potash or soda, with equal parts
of freshly burnt quicklime, which has pre-
viously been sprinkled with water, so as to
cause it to fall into powder. This mixture is
then made with water to a paste, and spread
on the putty to be softened. Where one ap-
plication is not sufficient, it is repeated. In
order to prevent the paste from drying too
quickly, it is well to mix it with less water,
adding some soft-soap.
2786. For Removing Old Putty. For
removing hard putty from a window- sash,
take a square piece of iron, make the same
red-hot, and run it along the putty till it gets
soft. The putty will peel off without injuring
the wood-work. Concentrated lye made of
lime and alkali will affect the wood and make
it rot quicker. (See No. 2784.)
2787. To Remove Paint from Old
Work. To destroy paint on old doors, etc.,
lay the mixture in receipt Jfo. 2784 over
the whole body of the work which is re-
quired to be cleaned, with an old brush (as it
will spoil a new one); let it remain for 12 or
14 hours, when the paint can be easily scraped
off. These two receipts have been used by a
practical painter and glazier for years.
2788. To Remove Paint from Wopd.
"Where it is necessary to remove paint entire-
ly, this is generally done by scraping; an-
other way is to soften the paint by passing a
flat flame over a portion of the surface at a
time, and it can be scraped off easily while
hot; but the method most recommended is
to lay on a thick coating or plaster of fresh
slacked lime mixed with soda ; next day, wash
it off with water, and it will remove the paint,
leaving the surface clean.
2789. To Remove Paint from Stone.
A correspondent of the London Builder, hav-
ing to clean a pulpit and sedilia in which the
carving and tracery were almost filled up with
successive coats of paint, was informed that
common washing-soda, dissolved in boiling
water, and applied hot, would remove it. He
found that 3 pounds of soda to a gallon of
water, laid on with a common paint-brush,
answered the purpose admirably, softening the
paint in a short time, so that it was easily re-
moved with a stiff scrubbing-brush ; after-
ward, on adding a few ounces of potash to the
solution, it softened more readily than with
soda only. The stone in both cases was a
fine freestone.
2790. To Soften Hard Putty. Break
the putty in lumps of the size of a hen's egg,
add a small portion of linseed oil, and water
sufficient to cover the putty ; boil this in an
iron vessel for about 10 minutes, and stir it
when hot. The oil will mix with the putt}-.
Then pour the water off, and it will be like
fresh made.
KALSOMINE AND WHITEWASH.
257
2791. To Clean Old Paint Cans,
Buckets, etc. This can be thoroughly doiie
with hot, strong lye.
2792. To Pencil or Point Brick Work.
The upright as well as the horizontal lines
should be drawn with a straight edge, as the
least want of uniformity spoils the appearance
of the brick work. White lead mixed with
turpentine, and thick enough to set firm, is
the best for this purpose.
Kalsomine and White-
"WclSll. The following receipts in-
clude the methods of preparing and applying
white and other coatings on walls, etc., as
well as the preparatory treatment of the sur-
face to which they are to be applied, and other
useful information.
2794. To Prepare Kalsomine. Kalso-
mine is composed of zinc white mixed with
water and glue sizing. The surface to which
it is applied must be clean and smooth. For
ceilings, mix 4 pound glue with 15 pounds
zinc; for walls, 1 pound glue with 15 pound*
zinc. The glue, the night before its use,
should be soaked in water,~aud in the morning
liquefied on the fire. It Ls difficult to prepare
or apply kalsomino; few painters can do so
successfully. Paris white is often made use
of for it, but it is not the gsnuine article.
(See next receipt.) The kalsouiining mixture
may be colored to almost any required tint by
mixing appropriate coloring matter with it.
2795. To Kalsomine Walls. In case
the wall of a large room, say 13 by 20 feet
square, is to be kalsomiued with two coats, it
will require about J p:mnd light-colored glue
and 5 or 6 pounds Paris white. (See last re-
ceipt.) Soak the glue over night, in a tin ves-
sel containing about a quart of warm water.
If the kalsomine is to ba applied the next day,
add a pint more of clean water to the glue, and
set the tin vessel containing the glue into a
kettle of boiling water over the fire, and con-
tinue to stir the glue until it is well dissolved
and quite thin. If the gluo pail bo placed in
a kettle of boiling water, the gluo will not be
scorched. Then, after putting the Paris white
into a largo water pail, pour on hot water, and
stir it until the liquid appsars like thick milk.
Now mingle thi glue liquid with the whiting,
stir it thoroughly, and apply it to the wall
with a whitewash-brush, or with a largo paint-
brush. It is of little consequence what kind
of an instrument i i employed in laying on the
kalsomino, provided the liquid is spread
sm >othly. Expensive brushes, made express-
ly for kalsomiuing, may bo obtained at brush
faatories, and at soma drug and hardware
store?. But a good whitewash-brush, having
long and thick hair, will do very well. In
case t!i3 liquid is so thick that it will not flow
from tho brush so as to make smooth work,
aid a little more hot water. "When applying
tho kalsomiue, stir it frequently. Dip the
brush often, and only so deep in the liquid as
to take as much a 5 the hair will retain with-
out letting larga drop •, fall to the floor If too
much g!u3 ba added, the kalsomiue cannot be
laid on smoothly, and will be liable to Track.
The aim should bo to apply a thin layer of siz-
ing that cannot be brushed off with a broom
or dry cloth. A thin coat will not crack.
2796. Whitewash for Out-Door Use.
Take a clean water-tight barrel, or other suit-
able cask, and put into it £ bushel lime.
Slack it by pouring boiling water over it, and
in sufficient quantity to cover 5 inches deep,
stirring it briskly till thoroughly slacked.
When slacking has been effected, dissolve in
water and add 2 pounds sulphate of zinc and
1 of common salt. These will cause the wash
to harden and prevent it from cracking, which
gives an unseemly appearance to the work.
If desirable, a beautiful cream color may be
communicated to the above wash, by adding
3 pounds yellow ochre. This wash may be
applied with a common whitewash-brush, and
will be found much superior, both in appear-
ance and durability, to common whitewash.
2797. Treasury Department White-
wash. This receipt for whitewashing, sent
out by the Lighthouse Board of the Treasury
Department, lias been found, by experience,
to answer on wood, brick and stone, nearly as
well as oil paint, and is much cheaper. Slack
i bushel unslacked lime "with boiling water,
keeping it covered during the process. Strain
it, and add a peck of salt, dissolved in warm
water; 3 pounds ground rice put in boiling
water, and boiled to a thin paste; i pound
powdered Spanish whiting, and a pound of
clear glue, dissolved in warm water; mix
these well together, and let the mixture stand
for several days. Keep the wash thus pre-
pared in a kettle or portable furnace, and,
when used, put it on as hot as possible, with
painters' or whitewash-brushes.
2798. To Color Whitewash. Coloring
matter may be put in and made of any shade.
Spanish brown stirred in will make red pink,
more or less deep according to the quantity.
A delicate tinge of this is very pretty for in-
side walls. Finely pulverized common clay,
well mixed with Spanish brown, make a red-
dish stone color. Yellow ochre stirred in
makes yellow wash, but chrome goes further,
and makes a color generally esteemed prettier.
In all these cases the darkness of the shades
of course is determined by the quantity of
coloring used. It is difficult to make rules,
because tastes are different ; it would be best
to try experiments on a shingle and let it dry.
Green must not be mixed with lime. The
lime destroys the color, and the color has an
effect on tho whitewash, which makes it crack
and peel. "When walls have been badly
smoked, and you wish to have them a clean
white, it is well to squeeze indigo plentifully
through a bag into the water you use, before
it is stirred in the whole mixture.
2799. Zinc Whitewash. Mix oxide of
zinc with common size, and apply it with a
whitewash-brush to the ceiling. After this,
apply in the same manner a wash of chloride
of zinc, which will combine with the oxide
to form a smooth cement with a shining sur-
face.
2800. A Fine Whitewash for Walls.
Soak i pound of glue over night in tepid wa-
ter. The next day put it into a tin vessel
with a quart of water, set the vessel in a
kettle of water over a fire, keep it there till
it boil«, and then stir until the glue is dissolv-
ed, ^ext put from 6 to 8 pounds Paris white
258
PAPER HANGING.
into another vessel, add hot water, and stir
until it has the appearance of milk of lime.
Add the sizing, stir well, and apply in the or-
dinary way, while still warm. Except on
very dark and smoky walls and ceilings, a
single coat is sufficient. It is nearly equal in
brilliancy to zinc-white (a far more expensive
article), and is very highly recommended by
those who have used it. Paris white is sul-
phate of baryta, and may be found at any
drug or paint store.
2801. Fire-Proof Whitewash. Make
ordinary whitewash and add 1 part silicate of
soda (or potash) to every 5 parts of the white-
wash.- (See No. 2816.)
2802. Whitewash for Outside Work.
Take of good quicklime £ a bushel, slack in
the usual manner and add 1 pound common
salt, £ pound sulphate of zinc (white vitriol),
and 1 gallon sweet milk. The salt and the
white vitriol should be dissolved before they
are added, when the whole should be thor-
oughly mixed with sufficient water to give the
proper consistency. The sooner the mixture
is then applied the better.
2803. Whitewash for Fences or Out-
Buildings. Slack the lime in boiling water,
and to 3 gallons ordinary whitewash add 1
pint molasses and 1 pint table salt. Stir the
mxiture frequently while putting it on. Two
thin coats are sufficient.
2804. To Mix Whitewash. Pour boil-
ing water on unslacked lime, and stir it occa-
sionally while it is slacking, as it will make
the paste smoother. To 1 peck of lime add
a quart of salt and £ ounce of indigo dis-
solved in water, or the same quantity of
Prussian blue finely powdered; add water
to make it the proper thickness to put on a
wall. 1 pound soap will give gloss.
2805. To Keep Whitewash. Keep
the lime covered with water and in a tub
which has a cover, to prevent dust or dirt
from falling in. If the water evaporates the
lime is useless, but if kept covered it will be
good as long as any remains.
2806. To Whiten Smoked Walls. A
method of cleaning and whitening smoked
walls consists, in the first place, of rubbing
off all the black, loose dirt upon them, by
means of a broom, and then washing them
down with a strong soda lye, which is to be
afterward removed by means of water to
which a little hydrochloric acid has been
added. "When the walls are dry a thin coat-
ing of lime, with the addition of a solution of
alum, is to be applied. After this has be-
come perfectly dry the walls are to be kalso-
mined or coated with a solution of glue and
chalk.
2807. To Color, and Prevent White-
wash Rubbing Off. Alum is one of the
best additions to make whitewash of lime
which will not rub off. When powdered
chalk is used glue water is also good, but
would not do for outside work exposed to
much rain. Nothing is easier than to give it
any desired color by small quantities of lamp-
black, brown sienna, ochre, or other coloring
material.
2808. To Paper Whitewashed Walls.
The following method is simple, sure, and in-
expensive: Make flour starch as you would
for starching calico clothes, aud, with a white-
wash-brush, wet the wall you wish to paper,
with the starch ; let it dry ; then, when you
wish to apply the paper, wet the wall and
paper both with the starch, and apply the pa-
per. "Walls have been papered in this way
that have been whitewashed 10 or even 20
years successively, and the paper has never
failed to stick. "WTien you wish to re-paper
the wall, with the brush wet the paper with
clear water, and it will come off readily. (See
No. 2811.)
2809. Bed Wash for Bricks. To re-
move the green that gathers on bricks, pour
over the bricks boiling water in which any
vegetables (not greasy) have been boiled.
Do this for a few days successively, and the
green will disappear. For the red wash melt
1 ounce of glue in a gallon of water ; while
hot, put in a piece of alum the size of an egg,
•J pound Venetian red, and 1 pound Spanish
brown. Try a little on the bricks, let it dry,
and if too light add more red and brown ; if
too dark, put in more water. This receipt
was contributed by a person who has used it
for 20 years with perfect success.
Paper Hanging, in cities,
this is either a trade by itself, or is
carried on as an adjunct to the painter's trade.
In rural districts, however, there are many
housekeepers who do this work for them-
selves. The following receipts are given for
the guidance of housekeepers.
2811. To Prepare a Wall for Paper-
ing. A new unwhitewashed wall will ab-
sorb the paste so rapidly that, before* drying,
there will be left too little body of paste on
the surface to hold the paper. A coating of
good glue size, made by dissolving i pound
of glue in a gallon of water (see No. 2815), or
a coating of good paste, put on and allowed
to dry before the paper is hung, will provide
for this difficulty. If the wall be white-
washed, it should be scratched with a stiff
brush, to remove every particle of loose lime
from the surface; after which it should be
thoroughly swept down with a broom, and
coated with the glue size or thin paste. (See
No. 2808.)
2812. Utensils for Paper Hanging.
A long table of thin boards cleated together
and placed on wooden horses, such as are
used by carpenters, a pair of sharp shears —
with long blades, if possible — a whitewash-
brush, a pail for paste, and a yard of cotton
cloth, are the implements required. The
table or board platform should be level on its
upper surface to facilitate the distribution of
the paste. The latter should be free from
lumps, and should be laid on as evenly as
possible. It should be made of good sweet
rye or wheat flour, beaten smooth in cold wa-
ter before boiling, and should not be allowed
to boil more than a minute or two, but should
be raised to the boiling point slowly, being
continually stirred till it is taken from the
fire. (See No. 2272.)
2813. To Prepare Paper for Hang-
ing. Inexpert hands often find difficulty in
hanging the lengths of paper so as to make
the patterns match. Fo general directions
SOLUBLE GLASS.
259
can be given for this, but a little study at the
outset will often save cutting to waste, and
other difficulties. In this matter, as in others,
it is wise to " first be sure you are right, then
go ahead." As soon as the proper way to cut
the paper is decided upon, a whole roll, or
more, may be cut at once, and the pieces laid,
printed side downwards, upon the table,
weights being placed upon the ends to prevent
curling. The paste should then be applied
to the back of the uppermost piece, as expe-
ditiously as possible, as the longer the time
employed in this part of the operation, the
more tender will the paper get, and the more
difficult it will be to hang it properly. About
one-quarter of the length should be turned up
at the bottom of the strip before hanging ;
as, without this, the bottom is apt to stick to
the wall before the upper part of the strip
can be adjusted. If the paper is very thick,
both ends must be folded over, so as to meet
in the middle. Besides being more conve-
nient for handling, this allows the paper to
soften, without the paste getting dry.
2814. To Apply Paper to "Walls.
The upper end of the piece should then be
taken by the corners, and the operator, step-
ping upon a bench or step-ladder, should
barely stick the piece at the top, and in such
a manner that the edge shall coincide with
the piece previously hung ; this can be done
by sighting down the trimmed edge of the
piece, while it is held in the hands. The
cloth should now be held in a loose bunch,
and the paper smoothed with it from top to
bottom, care being taken to work out all air
from under the paper, which, if not thorough-
ly done, will give it a very unsightly blistered
appearance. If any air remains under a part
of the strip after it has been hung, a hole
must be pricked through the paper with a
pin, to allow of its escape. A soft flat whisk-
brash (such as is used for brushing clothes) is
better for smoothing the paper than a cloth.
After the top is secured so that the pattern
matches, brush once down the centre of the
strip as far as the paste is exposed. Then
carefully unfold the bottom of the strip, brush
down the centre, and smooth the whole by
brushing from the centre to the edges, right
and left, all the way down, finishing with one
sweep down the trimmed edge, to ensure a
perfect join. A moist cloth should be always
at hand to keep the figures clean and free
from color. If the wall be uneven or crooked,
as is often the case in old houses, it will be
difficult to avoid wrinkles, but they can be
mostly got rid of by cutting the paper and
allowing the cut edges to lap over each other,
in places where there would otherwise be a
wrinkle. By following these directions the
most inexperienced will be able to do a
reasonably tidy piece of work, but of course
a high degree of skill is only secured by
practice.
2815. To Make Glue Sizing. Break
up the glue into small pieces, put it in a
vessel with sufficient cold water to just cover
it; let it soak over night, and in the morning
the glue will be soft enough to melt readily
with a moderate heat, or- in a water-bath.
Add water to reduce to the desired con-
sistency. This must be applied as directed
in the foregoing receipts.
Soluble GrlaSS. This is a combi-
nation of silica with an alkali, soluble in
boiling water, yielding a fine, transparent,
semi-elastic varnish. When made according
to Liernen's or Kuhlman's method, under in-
creased pressure and heat, it is unaffected by
cold water, and the object painted or covered
by the same can only be deprived of its coat-
ing by undergoing the same heat and pressure
as was required to prepare the original solu-
tion. Soluble glass prepared from potash is
usually called silicate of potash ; that from
soda being silicate of soda. The most ex-
tensive use which is made, at present, of solu-
ble glass produced after the other methods, is
for the adulteration of soap ; in fact, such a
preparation is a kind of soap, in which the
expensive fatty acids are replaced by the cheap
silicic acid or sand ; but it is a bad soap, very
caustic, as the silicic acid but veiy imperfectly
neutralizes the alkali. Another use of water
glass is that of hardening cements, mortar,
etc., so as .to render them impermeable by
water.
2817. Fuchs' Soluble Potash Glass.
A mixture of 15 parts pulverized quartz, or
pure quartz sand, 10 parts of well purified
potash, and 1 part powdered charcoal, may be
conveniently employed. These ingredients
are to be well mixed and exposed to a strong
heat in a fire-proof melting-pot for 5 or 6
hours, until the whole fuses uniformly and
steadily ; 'as much heat is required as is ne-
cessary to melt common glass. The melted
mass is then taken out by means of an iron
spoon, and the melting-pot immediately re-
filled with a fresh quantity. (At this stage
of the process it is said by another authority,
that, by pulverizing and exposing it to the air,
it will absorb acidity, and by degrees the for-
eign salts will, after frequent agitation and
stirring, be completely separated, particularly
after pouring over the mass some cold water,
which dissolves them, but not the soluble
glass. ) It is then broken up, pulverized, and
dissolved in about 5 parts of boiling water,
by introducing it in small portions into an iron
vessel and constantly stirring the liquid, re-
placing the water as it evaporates, by adding
hot water from time to time, and continuing
to boil for 3 or 4 hours, until the whole is dis-
solved— a slimy deposit excepted — and until
a pellicle begins to form on the surface of the
liquid, which indicates that the solution is in
a state of great concentration ; it disappears,
however, when the liquid is stirred ; and the
boiling may then be continued for a short
time, in order to obtain the solution in the
proper state of concentration, when it has a
specific gravity of from 1.24 to 1.25 (about
28° Baum6). In this state it is sufficiently
liquid to be used in many operations; in some
instances it will be necessary to dilute it with
more or less water. "When evaporated to a
syrupy consistence, it can be employed with
advantage in but few cases. Very frequently
it is found contaminated with a little sulphide
of potassium, and it becomes necessary to add
a little oxide of copper or copper scales to-
wards the end of the boiling, which liberates
a small quantity of potash, but which renders
it rather more suitable for many practical pur-
poses than otherwise. If it is desirable, how-;
ever, to have a water-glass which is entirely
260
TO DYE WOOD.
neutral, it requires to be boiled with freshly-
precipitated silica as long as any silica is dis-
solved.
2818. Fuchs1 Soluble Soda Glass.
This i.s prepared iu the same way as the potash
glass (see No. 2817), with the exception that
a smaller proportion of soda is required. A
mixture of 45 parts by weight of quartz, 23
parts dry carbonate of soda, and 3 parts char-
coal, may bo employed. The mixture fuses
somewhat easier than potash glass.
2819. Buchner's Soluble Soda Glass.
Take 100 parts quartz, 60 parts dry sulphate
of soda, and 15 to 20 parts charcoal. This is
said to be cheaper than that made with car-
bonate of soda, and is prepared in the same
manner. By the addition of some copper
scales to the mixture the sulphur will be sep-
arated. Another method is proposed by dis-
solving the fine silex in caustic soda lye.
Knhlinan employs the powdered flint, which
is dissolved in an iron caldron under a pres-
sure of 7 to 8 atmospheres of steam. Liebig
has 'recommended infusorial earth in place of
sand, on account of its being readily soluble
in caustic lye ; and ho proposes to use 120
parts of the earth to 75 parts of caustic soda,
from which 240 parts of silica jelly may be
obtained. His mode is to calcine the earth so
as to become white, and passing it through a
sieve. The lye he prepares from 75 ounces of
calcined soda, dissolved in 5 times the quan-
tity of boiling water, and then treated by 56
ounces of dry slacked lime ; this lye is con-
centrated by boiling down to 48° Baum6 ; in
this boiling lye 120 ounces of the prepared in-
fusorial earth are added by degrees, which
are readily dissolved, leaving scarcely any
sediment. It has then to undergo several
operations for making it suitable for use, such
as treating again with lime-water, boiling it
and separating any precipitate, which by con-
tinued boiling forms into balls, and which can
then be removed from the liquid. This clear
liquid is then evaporated to the consistency
of syrup ; it forms a jelly slightly colored,
feels dry and not sticky, and is readily soluble
in boiling water. The difference between
potash and soda soluble glass is not material ;
the first may be preferred in whitewashing
with plaster of Paris, while the soda glass is
more fluidly divisible.
2820. ' To Distinguish Potash and
Soda Soluble Glass. By adding i volume
of rectified alcohol to a concentrated solution
of soluble potash glass, a gelatinous precipi-
tate is formed, which, in a few days, is de-
posited at the bottom of the vessel in a solid
mass. The addition of alcohol to soluble soda
glass converts it into a gelatinous mass, but
affords no precipitate.
2821 . To Make Wood Incombustible.
The application of soluble glass to wood ren-
' ders it almost incombustible.
2822. Double Soluble Glass. A mix-
ture of 3 parts by measure of concentrated
potash soluble glass, and 2 parts concentrated
soda glass, produce a double water-glass which
will answer all practical purposes.
The following preparation is also recom-
mended by Fuchs, as being much easier to
fuse. Take 100 parts quartz, 28 parts purified
potash, 22 parts neutral dry carbonate of soda,
• and 6 parts powdered charcoal.
2823. Soluble Glass for Stereo-Chro-
mic Painting. Soluble glass for the use of
stereo-chromic painting is obtained by fusing
3 parts of pure carbonate of soda and 2 parts
of powdered quartz, from which a concentrated
solution is prepared, 1 part of which is then
added to 4 parts of a concentrated and fully
saturated solution of potash-glass solution, by
which there is a more condensed amount of ;
silica with the alkalies; this solution has "'
been found to work well for paint. Siemens'
patent for the manufacture of soluble glass
consists in the production of a liquid quartz
by digesting the eand or quartz in a steam-
boiler tightly closed and at a temperature
corresponding to 4 or 5 atmospheres, with the
common caustic alkalies, which are in this
way capacitated to dissolve from 3 to 4 times
the weight of silica to a thin liquid. Experi-
ence has taught that the soluble glass made
in the old way, with an excess of alkali, can-
not stand the influence of the atmosphere
when used as a paint. The soda washes out,
and leaves the silex in a pulverized condition,
so that it soon disappears. When, however,
a closed boiler is used, according to Kuhlman's
or Siemens' method, and a pressure of 7 or 8
atmospheres, which corresponds with a tem-
perature of some 120° above the boiling point
of water, the solvent qualities of the latter
are increased to such an extent as to enable it
to dissolve a glass containing J to ^ the amount
of potash or soda.
TO Dye WOOd. Dyeing wood is
mostly applied for giving color to ve-
neers, while staining is more generally had re-
course to, to give the desired color to an article
after it has been manufactured. Iu the one
case, the color should penetrate throughout,
while in the latter the surface is all that is es-
sential. After the veneers are cut, they should
be allowed to lie in a trough of water for 4 or
5 days before being put into the copper ; as?
the water brings out abundance of slimy mat-
ter, which, if not thus removed, would prevent
the wood taking a good color. After this pu-
rifying process, the veneers should bo dried in
the open air for at least 12 hours. They are
then ready for the copper. By this simple
method, the color will strike much quicker,
and -be of n brighter hue. It would also add
to the quality of the colors, if, after the ve-
neers have boiled a few hours, they are taken
out, dried in the air, and again immersed in
the coloring copper. Always dry veneers in
the open air, for fire invariably injures tho
colors. (Sec Noa. 2837, etc.)
2825. Fine Black Dye for Wood. Put
6 pounds chip logwood into the copper, with
as many veneers as.it will conveniently hold,
without pressing too tight ; fill it with water,
and let it boil slowly for about 3 hours ; then
add i pound powdered verdigris, i pound cop-
peras, and 4 ounces bruised nut-galls ; fill tho
copper up with vinegar as the water evapo-
rates; let it boil gently 2 hours each day till
the wood is dyed through.
2826. Fine Yellow Dye for Wood.
Reduce 4 pounds of barberry root by sawing,
to dust, which put in a copper or brass trough;
TO DYE WOOD.
261
add 4 ounces turmeric and 4 gallons water,
then put in as many white holly veneers as
the liquor will cover ; boil them together for
3 hours, often turning them ; when "cool, add
2 ounces aquafortis, and the dye will strike
through much sooner.
2827. Bright Yellow Dye for Wood.
To every gallon of water necessary to cover
the veneers, add 1 pound French berries ; boil
the veneers till the color has penetrated
through ; add some brightening liquid (see
next receipt) to the infusion of the French
berries, and let the veneers remain for 2 or 3
hours, and the color will be very bright.
2828. Liquid For Brightening and
Setting Colors. To every pint of strong
aquafortis, add 1 ounce grain tin, and a piece
of sal-ammoniac the size of a walnut ; set it
by to dissolve, shake the bottle round with
the cork out, from time to time : in the course
of 2 or 3 days it will be fit for use. This will
be found an admirable liquid to add to any
color, as it not only brightens it, but renders
it less likely to fade from exposure to the air.
2829. Fine Blue Dye for Wood. Into
a clean glass bottle put 1 pound oil of vitriol,
and 4 ounces best indigo pounded in a mortar
(take care to set the bottle in a basin or earth-
en glazed pan, as it will effervesce), put the
veneers into a copper or stone trougli ; fill it
rather more than $• with water, and add as
much of the vitriol and indigo (stirring it
about) as will make a fine blue, which you
may know by trying it with a piece of white
paper or wood ; let the veneers remain till the
dye has struck through. The color will be
much improved if the solution of indigo in
vitriol be kept a few weeks before using it.
The color will also strike better if the veneers
be boiled in plain water till completely soaked
through, and left for a few hours to dry par-
tially, previous to immersing them in the dve.
2830. Bright Green Dye for Wood.
Proceed as in either of the previous receipts to
produce a yellow; but instead of adding
aquafortis or the brightening liquid, add as
much vitriolated indigo (see last receipt) as
will produce the desired color.
2831. Bright Bed Dye for Wood. To
2 pounds genuine Brazil dust, add 4 gallons
water ; put in as many veneers as the liquor
will cover ; boil them for 3 hours ; then add 2
ounces alum, and 2 ounces aquafortis, and
keep it lukewarm until it has struck through.
2832. Bed Dye for Wood. To every
pound of logwood chips, add 2 gallons water;
put in the veneers, and boil as in the last;
then add a sufficient quantity of the brighten-
ing liquid (see No. 2828), till the color is of a
satisfactory tint ; keep the whole as warm as
you can bear your finger in it, till the color
has sufficiently penetrated. The logwood
chips should be picked from all foreign sub-
stances with which it generally abounds, as
bark, dirt, &c.; and it is always best when
fresh cut, which may be known by its ap-
pearing of a bright red color ; for if stale, it
will look brown, and not yield so much color-
ing matter.
2833. Bose Colored Dye for Wood.
Monier produces a fine pink or rose-color on
wood of cellulose, especially that of the ivory
nut, by immersing it first in a solution of
iodide of potassium, 1£ ounces per pint of
water, in which it remains for several hours,
when it is placed in a bath of corrosive subli-
mate, 135 grains to the pint. When properly
dyed it is washed and varnished over. Wo
should think that less poisonous materials
might be found to answer tho same purpose.
2834. Bright Purple Dye for Wood.
Boil 2 pounds logwood, cither in chips or pow-
der, in 4 gallons water, with the veneers ; after
boiling till the color is well struck in, add by
degrees vitriolated indigo (sec No. 2829), till
the purple is of the shade required, which
may be known by trying it with a piece of
paper ; let it then boil for 1 hour, and keep the
liquid in a milk- warm state till the color has
penetrated the veneer. This method, when
properly managed, will produce a brilliant
purple.
2835. Orange Dye for Wood. Let the
veneers be dyed by either of tho methods
given for a fine deep yellow (sec Nos. 2826
and 2827), and while they are still wet and
saturated with the dye, transfer them to tho
bright red dye (see No. 2821), till the color
penetrates equally throughout.
2836. Silver-Gray Dye for Wood.
Expose any quantity ot old iron, or, what is
better, the borings of gun-barrels, &c., in any
convenient vessel, and from time to time
sprinkle them with muriatic acid, diluted in
4 times its quantity of water, till they are
very thickly covered with rust ; then to every
6 pounds add 1 gallon of water in which has
been dissolved 2 ounces salt of tartar (car-
bonate of potassa) ; lay the veneers in the
copper, and cover them with this liquid ; let
it boil for 2 or 3 hours till well soaked, then
to every gallon of liquor add 4 pound of
green copperas, and keep the whole at a
moderate temperature till the dye has suffi-
ciently penetrated.
2837. To Dye Veneers. Some manu-
facturers of Germany, who had been sup-
plied from Paris with veneers, colored through-
out their mass, were necessitated by the late
war to produce them themselves. Mr. Pus-
cher states that experiments made in this
direction gave in the beginning colors fixed
only on the outside, while the inside was un-
touched, until the veneers were soaked for 24
hours in a solution of caustic soda containing
10 per cent, of soda, and boiled therein for £
hour; after washing them with sufficient wa-
ter to remove the alkali, they may be dyed
throughout their mass. This treatment with
soda effects a general disintegration of the
wood, whereby it becomes, in the moist state,
elastic and leather-like, and ready to absorb
the color ; it must then, after dyeing, be dried
between sheets of paper and subjected to pres-
sure to retain its shape.
2838. To Dye Veneers Black. Te-
neers treated as in last receipt and left for 24
hours in a hot decoction of logwood (1 part
logwood to 3 water), removing them after j
the lapse of that time, and, after drying them
superficially, putting them into a hot solution
of copperas (1 part copperas to 30 water),
will, alter 24 hours, become beautifully and
completely dyed black.
2839. To Dye Veneers Yellow. A
solution of 1 part picric acid in 60 water,
with the addition of so much ammonia as to
become perceptible to the smell, dyes veneers
262
TO STAIN WOOD.
yellow, which color is not in the least affected
by subsequent varnishing. Before dyeing,
the veneers require the preparatory treatment
given in No. 2837.
2840. To Dye Veneers Rose-Color.
Coralline dissolved in hot water, to which a
little caustic soda and one-fifth of its volume
of soluble glass has been added, produces
rose-colors of different shades, dependent on
the amount of coralline taken. (See No.
2837.)
2841. To Dye Veneers Silver-Gray.
The only color which veneers will take up,
without previous treatment of soda, is silver-
gray, produced by soaking them for a day in a
solution of 1 part copperas to 100 parts water.
'O Stain Wood. Staining
wood is altogether a different process
from dyeing it, and requires no preparation
before the stain be applied. In preparing the
stain, but little trouble is required; and,
generally speaking, its application differs very
little from that of painting. "When carefully
done, and properly varnished, staining has a
very beautiful appearance, and is much less
likely to meet with injury than japanning.
2843. Black Stain for Immediate
Use. Boil i pound chip logwood in 2 quarts
water, add 1 ounce pearlash, and apply it hot
to the work with a brush. Then take 4
pound logwood, boil it as before in 2 quarts
water, and add $ ounce verdigris and i ounce
green copperas ; strain it off, put in £ pound
rusty steel filings; with this, go over the
work a second time.
2844. To Stain Wood Like Ebony.
Take a solution of sulphate of iron (green
copperas), and wash the wood over with it
2 or 3 times; let it dry, and apply 2 or 3 coats
of a strong hot decoction of logwood ; wipe
the wood, when dry, with a sponge and wa-
ter, and polish with linseed oil.
2845. To Stain Wood Light Mahog-
any Color. Brush over the surface with
diluted nitrous acid, and when dry apply the
following, with a soft brush : dragon's blood,
4 ounces; common soda, 1 ounce ; spirit of
wine, 3 pints. Let it stand in a warm place,
shake it frequently, and then strain. Kepeat
the application until the proper color is
obtained.
2846. To Stain Dark Mahogany
Color. Boil •$• pound madder and 2 ounces
logwood in 1 gallon water; then brush the
wood well over with the hot liquid. "When
dry, go over the whole with a solution of 2
drachms pearlash in 1 quart water.
2847. To Stain Mahogany Color.
Pure Socotrine aloes, 1 ounce; dragon's
blood, £ ounce ; rectified spirit, 1 pint ; dis-
solve, and apply 2 or 3 coats to the surface of
the wood ; finish off with wax or oil tinged
with alkanet. Or : "Wash over the wood with
strong aquafortis, and when dry, apply a coat
of the above varnish ; polish as last. • Or :
Logwood, 2 ounces; madder, 8 ounces; fustic,
1 ounce ; water, 1 gallon ; boil 2 hours, and
apply it several times to the wood boiling
hot; when dry, slightly brush it over with a
solution of pearlash, 1 ounce, in water, 1
quart ; dry and polish as before. Or : Log-
wood, 1 part ; water, 8 parts. Make a decoc-
tion and apply it to the wood ; when dry,
give it 2 or 3 coats of the following varnish :
dragon's blood, 1 part; spirits of wine, 20
parts. Mix.
2848. Beech-wood Mahogany. Dis-
solve 2 ounces dragon's blood and 1 ounce
aloes in 1 quart rectified spirit of wine, and
apply it to the surface of the wood previ-
ously well polished. Or : "Wash over the sur-
face of the wood with aquafortis, and when
thoroughly dry give it a coat of the above
varnish. Or : Boil 1 pound logwood chips in
2 quarts water, and add 2 handfuls of walnut
peel ; boil again, then strain, and add 1 pint
good vinegar ; apply as above.
2849. Artificial Mahogany. The
following method of giving any species of
wood of a close grain the appearance of ma-
hogany in texture, density, and polish, is said
to be practiced in France with success. The
surface is planed smooth, and the wood is
then rubbed with a solution of nitrous acid ;
1 ounce dragon's blood is dissolved in nearly
a pint of spirits of wine ; this, and -J- ounce
carbonate of soda, are then to be mixed to-
gether and filtered, and the liquid in this
thin state is to be laid on with a soft brush.
This pro/jess is to be repeated, and in a short
interval afterwards the wood possesses the
external appearance of mahogany. "When
the polish diminishes in brilliancy, it may be
restored by the use of a little cold-drawn
linseed oil.
2850. Fine Black Stain. Boil 1
pound logwood in 4 quarts water, add a
double handful of walnut-peel or shells ; boil
it up again, take out the chips, add' 1 pint
best vinegar, and it will be fit for use ; apply
it boiling hot. This will be improved by
applying a hot solution of green copperas
dissolved in water (an ounce to a quart),
over the first stain.
2851. To Imitate B-osewood. Boil J
pound logwood in 3 pints water till it is of a
very dark red; add h ounce salt of tartar
(carbonate of potassa). "While boiling hot,
stain the wood with 2 or 3 coats, taking care
that it is nearly dry between each ; then, with
a stiff flat brush, such as is used by the paint-
ers for graining, form streaks with the black
stain above named (see last receipt), which,
if carefully executed, will be very nearly the
appearance of dark rosewood; or, the black
streaks may be put in with a camel's hair pen-
cil, dipped in a solution of copperas and verdi-
gris in a decoction of logwood. A handy brush
for the purpose may be made out of a flat
brush, such as is used for varnishing ; cut the
sharp points off, and make the edges irregular,
by cutting out a few hairs here and there, and
you will have a tool which will accurately
imitate the grain.
2852. To Imitate Rosewood. Stain
with the black stain (see No. 2850) ; and
when dry, with a brush dipped in the bright-
ening liquid (see No. 2828), form red veins, in
imitation of the grain of rosewood, which
will produce a beautiful effect.
2853. New Stain for Wood. Per-
manganate of potassa is recommended as a
rapid and excellent stain for wood. A solu-
tion of it spread upon pear or cherry wood,
VARNISH.
263
for a few minutes, leaves a permanent dark
brown color, which, after careful washing,
drying, and oiling, assumes a reddish tint upon
being polished.
2854. Stolzel's Method of Staining
Wood Brown. Dr. Stolzel adds another to
the many receipts already given for staining
wood of a brown color. First of all paint
over the wood with a solution made by
boiling 1 part of catechu (Cutch or Gambier)
with 30 parts water and a little soda. This is
allowed to dry in the air, and the wood is
then painted over with another solution made
of 1 part bichromate of potash and 30 parts
water. By a little difference in the mode of
treatment, aud by varying the strength of the
solutions, various shades of color may be
given with these materials, which will be
permanent and tend to preserve the wood.
2855. To Darken Light Mahogany.
"When furniture is repaired, it frequently
happens that the old wood cannot be matched,
and therefore the work presents a patched ap-
pearance. To prevent this, wash the pieces
introduced, with soap-lees, or dissolve quick-
lime in water, and use in the same manner;
but be careful not to let either be too strong,
or it will make the wood too dark ; it is best,
therefore, to use it rather weak at first, and,
if not dark enough, repeat the process till the
wood is sufficiently darkened.
2856. Bed Stain for Bedsteads and
Common Chairs. Archil will produce a
very good stain of itself, when used cold ; but
if, after 1 or 2 coats being applied and suffered
to get almost dry, it is brushed over with a hot
solution of pearlash in water, it will improve
the color.
2857. To Improve the Color of any
Stain. Mix in a bottle 1 ounce of nitric
acid, i tea-spoonful muriatic acid, J ounce
grain tin, and 2 ounces rain water. Mix it at
least 2 days before using, and keep the bottle
well corked.
2858. To Stain Musical Instruments
and Fancy Boxes. Fancy work necessitates
the employment of brighter colors than those
used for furniture ; we therefore give the fol-
lowing receipts for preparing and applying
those most commonly employed for such pur-
poses.
2859. Fine Crimson Stain. Boil 1
pound good Brazil dust in 3 quarts water for
an hour; strain it, and add i ounce cochineal;
boil it again gently for i an hour, and it will
be fit for use. If required of a more scarlet
tint, boil 4 ounce saffron in 1 quart of water
for an hour, and pass over the work previous
to the red stain.
2860. Fine Green Stain. To 3 pints
strongest vinegar, add 4 ounces best verdigris
pounded fine, 4 ounce sap green, and £ ounce
indigo. Distilled vinegar, or verjuice, improves
the color.
2861. Purple Stain. To 1 pound good
chip logwood, put 3 quarts water; boil it well
for an hour ; then add 4 ounces pearlash, and
2 ounces pounded indigo.
2862. Fine Blue Stain. Into 1 pound
oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) in a clean glass
* phial, put 4 ounces indigo, and proceed as
above directed in dyeing purple.
2863. Bright Yellow Stain. Wood
need not be stained yellow, as a small piece
of aloes put into the varnish will have the de-
sired effect.
2864. Fine Black Stain. As a general
thing, when black is required in musical in-
struments, it is produced by japanning; the
work being well prepared with size and lamp-
black, apply the black japan (see No. 2322),
after which, varnish and polish. But as a
black stain is sometimes required for finger-
boards, bridges, and flutes, proceed as directed
in staining (see No. 2850); the wood, how-
ever, ought to be either pear, apple, or box-
wood; the latter is preferable; and if it be
rubbed over, when dry, with a rag or flannel
dipped in hot oil, it will give it a gloss equal
to ebony.
2865. To Stain Boxwood Brown.
Hold the work to the fire, that it may receive
a gentle warmth; then take aquafortis, and
with a feather pass over- the work until it
changes to a fine brown (always keeping it
near the fire) ; then oil and polish it.
2866. Cane Staining. By the following
simple process, canes and similar sticks may
be stained a rich brown: Dissolve a few
grains sulphate of manganese in sufficient
water to take it up ; moisten the surface of
the cane with it, and hold it over the flame of
a spirit lamp close enough to scorch it. By
care, the whole surface may be brought to a
uniform rich brown, or beautifully variegated
by heating some parts more than others; thus
varying the color from white to the deepest
black. The color will appear dull at first;
but, on oiling it with raw linseed oil, and rub-
bing it with a smooth piece of hard wood, it
will be beautifully developed. Give the cane
no other finish, unless it be another oiling some
days after the first.
Varilisll. Tarnishes may be con-
veniently divided into two kinds, viz.,
spirit and oil varnishes. Concentrated alcohol
is used as the solvent in the former, aud fixed
or volatile oils, or mixtures of the two, for tho
latter. The specific gravity of alcohol for the '
purpose of making varnishes should not bo
greater than 0.820 (that is, not below about
93 per cent). Camphor is often dissolved in
it to increase its solvent powers. The oil of
turpentine, which is the essential oil chiefly
employed, should be pure and colorless. Pale
drying linseed oil is the fixed oil generally
used for varnishes, but poppy and nut oil aro
also occasionally employed. Among the sub-
stances employed in the manufacture of var-
nishes are turpentine, copal, mastich, lac,
elemi, sandarach, anime, and amber, to impart
body and lustre; benzoin to impart scent;
gamboge, turmeric, saffron, annotto, and
Socotrine aloes, to give a yellow color ; dra-
gon's blood to give a red tinge ; asphaltum to
give a black color and body ; caoutchouc to
inpart body, toughness, and elasticity. Var-
nish constitutes a distinct branch of manufac-
ture, and many of them can be advantageously
or safely made only on the large scale on
premises adapted for the purpose.
2868. Preparation of Linseed Oil for
Making Oil Varnishes. In the manufacture
of oil varnishes, one of the most important
264:
OIL VAENISEES.
points is the use of good drying oil. Linseed
oil for this purpose should be pale, limpid,
brilliant, scarcely odorous, and mellow and
sweet to the taste. 100 gallons of such oil
arc put into an iron or copper boiler capable
of holding 150 gallons, and gradually heated
to a gentle simmer for 2 hours, to expel mois-
ture; the scum is then carefully removed, and
14 pounds scale litharge, 12 pounds red lead,
and 8 pounds powdered umber (all carefully
dried and free from moisture), are gradually
sprinkled in; the whole is then kept well
stirred, to prevent the dryers sinking to the
bottom, und the boiling is continued at a
gentle heat, for 3 hours longer; the fire is
next withdrawn, and, iu 24 to 36 hours, the
scum is carefully removed, and the clear oil
decanted from the bottom. This forms the
best boiled or drying oil.
2869. Clarified Oil for Varnish. When
boiled oil is used for making varnish, and a
still further clarifying is deemed advisable, it
is placed in a copper pan holding from 80 to
100 gallons, and heat gradually applied till
the scum rises, after removing which the oil
is allowed to boil for about 2 hours, when it is
dosed with calcined magnesia, in the propor-
tion of an ounce to every 4 gallons of oil, but
added by degrees and with occasional stirring*.
This being completed, the oil is again boiled
briskly for about an hour, and then, the fur-
nace being drawn, allowed to cool. When
the temperature is sufficiently reduced, it is
removed to leaden cisterns, where it is stored
till fit for use.
2870. Clarified Linseed Oil for Var-
nishes. Heat in a copper boiler 50 gallons
of linseed oil to 280° Fahr.; add 2i pounds of
calcined white vitriol, and keep the oil at the
above temperature for i hour ; then remove
it from the fire, and in 24 hours decant the
clear oil, which should stand for a few weeks
before it is used for varnish.
2871. Wilks? Refined Linseed Oil. In
236 gallons oil pour 6 pounds oil of vitriol,
and stir them together for 3 hours ; then add
6 pounds fullers' earth, well mixed with 14
'pounds hot lime, and stir for 3 hours. Put
the oil into a copper boiler, with an equal
quantity of water, and boil for 3 hours ; then
extinguish the fire, and when the materials
are cold draw off the water, and let the oil
stand to settle for a few weeks before using.
2872. Boiled Oil for Varnishes. Mix
100 gallons linseed oil and 7 pounds calcined
white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) in fine powder,
in a clean copper boiler; heat it to 285° Fahr.,
and keep it at that temperature for at least an
hour, constantly stirring it; then allow it to
cool; in 24 hours decant the clear portion,
and in 3 or 4 weeks rack it for use.
2873. Cautions Respecting the Ma-
king of Varnish. As heat in many cases is
necessaiy to dissolve the gums used in ma-
king varnish, the best way, when practicable,
is to use a sand-bath, which is simply placing
the vessel containing the varnish, in another
filled with sand and placed on the fire. This
will generally be sufficient to prevent the
spirits catching fire ; but to avoid such an ac-
cident (which not unfrequently happens), it
will be best to take a vessel sufficiently large
to prevent any danger of spilling its contents ;
indeed, the vessel should never be more than
two-thirds filled. However, a piece of board
sufficiently large to cover the top of the ves-
sel should always be at hand in case the spirits
should take fire ; as also a wet wrapper, in
case it should be spilled, as water itself thrown
on would only increase the mischief. The
person who attends the varnish-pot should
have his hands covered with gloves, and, if
they are made of leather, and rather damp, it
will effectually prevent injury. These cau-
tions should be well observed, or shocking
personal injury may result from their neglect.
In the city, it is hardly worth while to make
varnish, unless in large quantities, as there
are many stores where it may be had very
good, and at a fair price ; but in the country,
where the freight is an object, and you can-
not depend upon the genuineness of the article,
it is necessary to be known by the practical
mechanic how to make it ; when it is avail-
able, it is best to purchase it. The varnish
generally sold for varnishing furniture is white
hard varnish.
Oil VarnislieS. These, the most
durable and lustrous of varnishes, .are
composed of a mixture of resin, oil, and spirit
of turpentine. The oils most frequently em-
ployed are linseed and walnut; the resins
chiefly used are copal and amber, and some
other gums. The drying power of the oil hav-
ing been increased by litharge, red lead, or by
sulphate of lead, and a judicious selection of
copal having been made, it is necessary, ac-
cording to Booth, to bear in mind the following
facts before proceeding to the manufacture of
varnish: 1. That varnish is not a solution,
but an intimate mixture of resin with boiled
oil and spirit of turpentine. 2. That the
resin must be completely fused previous to
the addition of the boiled or prepared oil. 3.
That the oil must be heated from 250° to 300°.
4. That the spirit of turpentine must be add-
ed gradually, and in a thin stream, while the
mixture of oil and resm is still hot. 5. That
the varnish be made in dry weather, otherwise
moisture is absorbed, and its transparency and
drying quality impaired. Of late years it has
been practically demonstrated that not only is
there no necessity for boiling the oil and gum
after incorporation, but that the produce is
equally good if the turpentine be added just
before the mixture becomes too cold to permit
of a perfect amalgamation. In fact, it is now
acknowledged that the oil need not be raised
to a higher temperature than that at which
the gum employed fuses, and that when the
two are mixed the lowest possible degree of
heat which will insure their incorporation, is
sufficient to secure all the results desired. By
this method a large quantity of the turpentine
formerly lost in evaporation is saved, and
there is, moreover, less risk of fire. The heat-
ing vessel must be of copper, of a capacity at
least one-third more gallons than the mixture
to bo introduced into it, with a riveted and
not a soldered bottom. To promote the ad-
mixture of the copal with the hot oil, the co-
pal— carefully selected and of nearly uniform
fusibility — is separately heated with contin-
uous stirring over a moderate charcoal fire
kept constantly supplied with fuel, without
OIL VARNISHES.
disturbing the kettle until the completion of
the mixture with the oil. If the copal is melt-
ed in the' hot oil, the resulting varnish i.-; more
colored a'nd less drying. There is, however,
great care required in fusing the copal by it-
self; for if the heat is too much prolonged,
the resin becomes pitchy, and gives an inferior
varnish. Constant stirring is requisite to pre-
vent adhesion to the sides and bottom of the
vessel, and consequent scorching. The pieces
of copal should bo of uniform fusibility ; the
different varieties, therefore, should not be
fused together, for that which melts first is
apt to scorch before the more refractory are
fused. If it is desired to mix different varie-
ties, they should be fused separately and then
mixed in fluid state. When the resin is thor-
oughly melted, the hot oil is to be ladled in
gradually during constant stirring. To deter-
mine when sufficient oil has been added, a
drop must be now and then taken out and
cooled upon a glass plate. If, on cooling, it is
limpid and wax-like, penetrable with the
nail without cracking, the proportion of oil is
sufficient ; if, however, it is hard and brittle,
more oil is required. Sorno resins absorb
more oil than others. The spirits of turpen-
tine should bo heated, and added in a thin
stream to the oil and resin while still hot.
Care must bo taken not to add the turpentine
while the mixture is too hot, as too much of
the turpentine will bo lost by evaporation;
but if the mixture gets too cool it becomes
sticky, the addition of turpentine must be
stopped, and it must be replaced over the fire
and heated gradually up to G00°. Limpidity
is thus restored, and, upon removal from the
fire, sufficient turpentine should bo added to
impart the proper consistence ; but this extra
heating injures the quality of the varnish.
2875. Common Oil 'Varnish. Eesin,
3 pounds; drying oil, i gallon; melt to-
gether, and add, when removed from the fire,
2 quarts warm oil of turpentine.
2876. Oil Copal Varnish. Pale hard
copal, 2 pounds ; fuse, add hot drying oil, 1
pint; boil as before directed, and thin with
011 of turpentine, 3 pints, more or less, as
found necessary. Very pale. Dries hard in
12 to 24 hours.
2877. Best Pale Carriage Varnish.
Pale African copal, 8 pounds ,~ fuse, and add
clarified linseed oil, 2J- gallons ; boil till very
stringy, then add dried copperas and litharge,
of each £ pound ; boil as before directed, thin
with oil of turpentine, 5£ gallons; mix while
hot with the following varnish, aad immedi-
ately strain the mixture into a covered vessel :
Gum anime, 8 pounds ; clarified linseed oil,
2i gallons ; dried sugar of lead and litharge,
of each i pound ; boil as before, thin with oil
of turpentine, 5£ gallons, and mix it while
hot with the last varnish as' above directed.
Dries in 4 hours in summer and G in winter.
Used for the wheels, springs, and carnage
parts of coaches and other vehicles, and by
house painters, decorators, <tc., who want a
strong, quick-drying, and durable varnish.
2878. Ordinary Carriage Varnish.
Sorted gum anirno, 8 pounds ; clarified oil, 3
gallons ; litharge, 5 ounces ; dried and pow-
dered sugar of lead and white copperas, of
each 4 ounces ; boil as last, and thin with oil
of turpentine, 5i gallons.
2879. Amber Varnish. Amber, 1
pound; pale boiled oil, 10 ounces ; turpentine,
1 pint. Render the amber, placed in an iron
pot, semi-liquid by heat; then add the oil,
mix, remove it from the fire, and, when cooled
a little, stir in the turpentine. Or: To the
amber, melted as above, add 2 ounces of
shellac, and proceed as before. This varnish
is rather dark, but remarkably tough. The
first form is the best. It is used for the sairfo
purposes as copal varnish, and forms an ex-
cellent article for covering wood, or any
other substance not of a white or very pale
color. It dries -well, and is very hard and
durable.
2880. Black Amber Varnish. Am-
ber, 1 pound ; boiled oil, ^ pint ; powdered
asphaltum, G ounces; oil of turpentine, 1
pint. Melt the amber, as before described,
then add the asphaltum, previously mixed
with the cold oil, and afterwards heated very
hot; mix well, remove the vessel from tho
fire, and, when cooled a little, add 'the turpen-
tine, also made warm. Each of the above
two varnishes should be reduced to a proper
consistence with more turpentine if it bo
required. The last form produces the beauti-
ful black varnish used by the coachmakers.
Some manufacturers omit tho whole or part
of the asphaltum, and use the same quantity
of clear black resin instead, in which case tho
color is brought up by lampblack reduced to
an impalpable powder, or previously ground
very fine with a little boiled oil. The varnish
made in this way lacks, however, that rich-
ness, brilliancy, and depth of blackness im-
parted by asphaltum.
2881. Pale Amber Varnish. Amber,
pale and transparent, G pounds ; fuse, add hot
clarified linseed oil, 2 gallons; boil till it
strings strongly, cool a little, and add oil of
turpentine, 4 gallons. Pale as copal varnish ;
soon becomes very hard, and is the most
durable of oil varnishes; but requires time
before it is fit for polishing. "When wanted
to dry and harden quicker, drying oil may be
substituted for linseed, or dryers may be
added during the boiling.
2882. Tough Amber Varnish. Am-
ber, 1 pound; melt, add Scio turpentine, i
pound; transparent white resin, 2 ounces;
hot linseed oil, 1 pint ; and afterwards suffi-
cient oil of turpentine as above. Very tough.
2883. Hard Amber Varnish. Melted
amber, 4 ounces ; hot boiled oil, 1 quart ; as
before.
2884. Very Pale Amber Varnish.
Very pale and transparent amber, 4 ounces ;
clarified linseed oil and oil of turpentine, of
each 1 pint; as before. Amber varnish is
suited for all purposes where a very hard and
durable oil varnish is required. Tho paler
kind is superior to copal varnish, and is often
mixed with the latter to increase its hardness
and durability.
2885. Varnish for "Waterproof Goods.
Let k pound of India-rubber, in small pieces,
soften in £ pound of oil of turpentine, then
add 2 pounds boiled oil, and let tho whole
boil for 2 hours over a slow coal fire. "When
dissolved, add again 6 pounds boiled linseed
oil and 1 pound litharge, and boil until an
even liquid is obtained. It is applied warm,
and forms a waterproof coating.
266
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
2886. India-Rubber Oil Varnish.
Take 4 ounces India-rubber in fine shavings,
•dissolve in a covered jar by means of a sand-
bath, in 2 pounds of crude benzole, and then
mix with 4 pounds hot linseed oil varnish,
and -J pound oil of turpentine. Dries well.
2887. India-Rubber Oil Varnish.
Cut up 1 pound India-rubber into small pieces
and diffuse in -J- pound sulphuric ether, which
is done by digestion in a glass flask on a
sand-bath. Then add 1 pound pale linseed
oil varnish, previously heated, and after
settling, 1 pound oil of turpentine, also
heated beforehand. Filter, while yet warm,
into bottles. Dries slowly.
2888. Gutta-Percha Oil Varnish.
Clean i pound gutta-percha in. warm water
from adhering impurities, dry well, dissolve
in 1 pound of rectified resin oil, and add 2
pounds linseed oil varnish, boiling hot. Yery
suitable to prevent metals from oxidation.
2889. Champagnat's India-Rubber
Varnish. In a wide-mouthed glass bottle,
digest 2 ounces India-rubber in fine shavings,
with 1 pound oil of turpentine, during 2 days,
without shaking, then stir up with a wooden
spatula. Add another pound oil of turpen-
tine, and digest, with frequent agitation,
until all is dissolved. Then mix Ik pounds
of this solution with 2 pounds of verv white
copal oil varnish, and li pounds well boiled
linseed oil ; shake and digest in a sand-bath,
until they hav« united in a good varnish.
For morocco leather.
2890. Flexible Varnish. Melt 1 pound
of resin, and add gradually i pound India-
rubber in very fine shavings, and stir until
cold. Then heat again, slowly, add 1 pound
linseed oil varnish, neated, and filter.
2891. Flexible Varnish. Dissolve 1
pound of gum damar, and i pound India-
rubber in very small pieces, in 1 pound oil of
turpentine, by means of a water-bath. Add
1 pound hot oil varnish and filter.
2892. Hair Varnish. Dissolve 1 part
of clippings of pigs' bristles, or of horse-hair,
in 10 parts of drying linseed oil by heat.
Fibrous materials (cotton, flax, silk, <fcc.),
imbued with the varnish and dried, are used
as a substitute for hair-cloth.
2893. Cabinet Varnish. Fuse 7 pounds
African copal, and pour on it 4 pints hot
clarified linseed oil ; in 3 or 4 minutes, if it
feels stringy, take it out of the building,
where there is no fire near, and when it has
cooled to 150° mix in 3 gallons oil of turpen-
tine of the same temperature, or sufficient to
bring it to a due consistence.
2894. Bessemer's Varnish for Me-
tallic Paint. This is made with 8 pounds
copal, 2£ gallons drying oil, and 25 gallons
oil of turpentine. These are made into a
varnish nearly as directed for Cabinet Tar-
nish (see No. 2893); and afterwards mixed
with a gallon of slacked lime and left for 3
days to settle. The clear portion is then
drawn off, and 5 parts of varnish mixed with
4 parts of bronze powder.
2895. Mahogany Varnish. Sorted
gum anime, 8 pounds; clarified oil, 3 gallons ;
litharge and powdered dried sugar of lead, of
each i pound; boil till it strings well, then
cool a little, thin with oil of turpentine, 5^
gallons, and strain.
2896. Italian Varnish. Boil Scio tur-
pentine till brittle; powder, and dissolve in
oil of turpentine. Or: Canada balsam and
clear white resin, of each 6 ounces; oil of
turpentine, 1 quart, dissolved. Used for prints,
engravings, &c.
2897. Varnish for Printers' Ink. To
every 10 pounds clarified linseed oil add 5
pounds clear black resin, and •£ pound oil of
turpentine. It is then ready for mixing with
lampblack or other coloring matter. A twelfth
part of Canada balsam is sometimes added for
the finer parts.
2898. Varnish for Frames for Hot
Beds. Mix 4 ounces pulverized white cheese,
2 ounces slacked lime, and 4 ounces boiled lin-
seed oil. Mix, and acid 4 ounces each whites
and yolks of eggs, and liquefy the mixture by
heat. This curious mixture is said to produce
a pliable and transparent varnish.
2899. Brunswick Black. Foreign
asphaltum, 45 pounds ; drying oiL 6 gallons ;
and litharge, G pounds. Boil for 2 hours, then
add dark gum-amber (fused), 8 pounds; hot
linseed oil, 2 gallons. Boil for 2 hours longer,
or until a little of the mass, when cooled,
may be rolled into pills. Then withdraw the
heat, and afterwards thin down with 25 gal-
lons oil of turpentine. Used for iron-work,
&G.
2900. Black Varnish for Iron- Work.
Asphaltum, 48 pounds, fuse; add boiled oil,
10 gallons ; red lead and litharge, of each 7
pounds ; dried and powdered white copperas,
3 pounds. Boil for 2 hours ; then add dark
gum amber (fused), 8 pounds; hot linseed
oil, 2 gallons ; boil for two hours, proceeding
as in the last receipt, thinning down with oil
of turpentine, 30 gallons. Used for the'samo
purposes as Brunswick black.
2901. Colored Oil Varnishes. Oil var-
nishes are colored by grinding with them the
most transparent colors, as distilled verdigris
for green, <fcc. Spirit varnishes are also colored
with dragon's blood, gamboge, &c. (See No.
2867.)
2902. Varnish for Grates. To 2
pounds common asphaltum, fused in an iron
pot, add 1 pint hot boiled linseed oil; mix well
and boil for some time. "When partially cooled
add 2 quarts oil of turpentine. If too thick,
add turpentine. Apply with an ordinary paint
brush.
Opirit Varnislies. The spirit
fr^Jl employed for making spirit varnishes
should not be less than 95 per cent. In pre-
paring and using them, they should be kept
at a distance from a candle or other flame.
Respecting the gums (resins) employed, it
may be useful to mention that shellac is ren-
dered more soluble by being powdered and
exposed for a long time to the air (sec No.
290G); sandarach gives hardness to varnishes;
mastich gives a gloss to a solution of other
gums; benzoin still more, but its color is
objectionable; anime readily dissolves, tut
renders the varnish long in drying ; copal and
amber are scarcely soluble iu spirit, but are
rendered partially'so by other gums, and also
by being previously fused by heat. (Sec No.
28G7.) Shellac gives a durable varnish, objec-
tionable only en account cf its color, which
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
267
may be rendered paler by charcoal. (Beasley.\
(See No. 1723, ^-c.) In the preparation o
spirit varnishes, care should be taken to pre-
vent the evaporation of the alcohol as much
as possible, and also to preserve the portion
that evaporates. On the small scale, spirit
varnishes are best made by maceration in
close bottles. In order to prevent the agglu-
tination of the resin, it is often advantageously
mixed with clear silicious sand, or pouudec
glass, by which the surface is much increased,
and the solvent power of the menstruum pro-
moted. The tendency of a spirit varnish to
chill or give a rough surface may be destroyed
by adding to the varnish a little gum sanda-
rach, oil of lavender or concentrated ammonia.
2904. To Dissolve Copal in Spirit.
Take the copal and expose it in a vessel
formed like a cullender to the front of a fire,
and receive the drops of melted gum in a
basin of cold water ; then dry them well in a
temperature of about 95° Pahr. By treating
copal in this way it acquires the property ol
dissolving in alcohol.
2905. Copal Varnish. Take 1 ounce
copal and -J an ounce shellac ; powder them
well, and put them into a bottle or jar con-
taining 1 quart spirits of wine. Place the
mixture in a warm place, and shake it occa-
sionally, until the gums are completely dis-
solved ; and, when strained, the varnish will
be iit for use. The above is the simplest, and
therefore the most usual method of making
common copal varnish ; but it may be pre-
pared in a variety of ways, where particular
uses may be required.
2906. To Dissolve Gum Shellac.
Everybody who has ever to deal with bleached
gum shellac knows the difficulties and the
loss of time attending its solution. To obviate
this, the gum is broken into small pieces and
macerated in a stoppered bottle with ether ;
after swelling up sufficiently, the excess of
ether is poured off, when it will dissolve quite
readily in alcohol. (See No. 2903.)
2907. Copal Varnish. Take 3 ounces
copal, melt by a gentle heat, and drop it into
water (see No. 2904) ; then dry it and powder
it fine. Place a bottle containing 1 pint oil
of turpentine in a water-bath, and add the
powdered copal to the turpentine in small por-
tions at a time ; in a few days decant the
clear. Dries slowly, but is very pale and
durable, and is used for pictures, <fcc. In
making this varnish, it frequently happens
that the gum will not melt as readily as it
ought, which, in general, is owing to the
turpentine not being sufficiently rectified;
but, when that is good, it will always succeed.
It is best also to let the turpentine be exposed
for some time in the sun, in a corked bottle,
that the watery particles may be gradually
dissipated. The bottle should not be stopped
quite tight.
2908. Copal Varnish, according to
Professor Boettger should be made by first dis-
solving 1 part by weight of camphor, in 12
parts ether; when the camphor is dissolved,
4 parts best copal resin, previously reduced
to an impalpable powder, are added to the
ethereal camphor solution placed in a well-
stoppered bottle. As soon as the copal ap-
pears to be partly dissolved, and has become
swollen, 4 parts strong alcohol, or methylated
spirits, and J part oil of turpentine are added,
and, after shaking the mixture and letting it
stand for a few hours longer, a thoroughly
good copal varnish is obtained.
2909. Common Turpentine Varnish.
This is merely clear pale resin dissolved in
oil of turpentine; usually 5 pounds resin to 7
pounds of turpentine.
2910. Crystal Varnish. Picked mas-
tich, 4 ounces; rectified spirit, 1 pint; animal
charcoal, 1 ounce. Digest and filter.
2911. Mastich Picture Varnish. Very
pale and picked gum mastich, 5 pounds;
glass pounded as small as barley, and well
washed and dried, 2£ pounds; rectified tur-
pentine, 2 gallons ; put them into a clean 4
gallon stone or tin bottle, bung down securely,
and keep rolling it backwards and forwards
pretty smartly on a counter or any other solid
place, for at least 4 hours ; when, if the gum
is all dissolved, the varnish may be decanted,
strained through muslin into another bottle,
and allowed to settle. It should be kept
for 6 or 9 months before use, as it thereby
gets both tougher and clearer. Very fine.
2912. Mastich Varnish. Mastich, 8
pounds; turpentine, 4 gallons; dissolve by a
gentle heat,' and add pale turpentine varnisk, J
gallon.
2913. Best Mastich Varnish. Gum
mastich, 6 ounces ; oil of turpentine 1 quart ;
dissolve. Mastich varnish is used for pictures,
&c.; when good, it is tough, hard, brilliant,
and colorless.
2914. Varnish for Paintings. Take
mastich, 6 ounces ; pure turpentine, $ ounce ;
camphor, 2 drachms ; spirits of turpentine, 19
ounces ; add first the camphor to the turpen-
tine ; the mixture is made in a water-bath ;
when the solution is effected, add the mastich
and the spirits of turpentine near the end of
the operation ; filter through a cotton cloth.
2915. Tingry's Essence Varnish.
Mastich in powder, 12 ounces; pure turpen-
tine, 1 k ounces ; camphor, i ounce ; powdered
glass, 5 ounces ; rectified oil of turpentine, 1
quart.
2916. White Toy Varnish. Tender
opal, 7-J- ounces ; camphor, 1 ounce ; alcohol
of 95 per cent., 1 quart ; dissolve, then add
mastich, 2 ounces; Venice turpentine, 1
ounce; dissolve and strain. Very white,
drying, and capable of being polished when
hard. Used for toys.
2917. White Varnish. Sandarach, 8
ounces; mastich, 2 ounces; Canada balsam, 4
ounces; alcohol, 1 quart. Used on paper,
wood, or linen.
2918. Best White Hard Varnish.
Eectified spirits of wine, 1 quart ; gum sanda-
rach, 10 ounces ; gum mastich, 2 ounces ; gum
anime, £ ounce'; dissolve these in a clean can,
or bottle, in a warm place, frequently shaking
t. "When the gum is dissolved, strain it
through a lawn sieve, and it is fit for use.
2919. Mordant, or Transfer Varnish.
Mastich in tears, 6£ ounces ; resin, 12£ ounces;
jale Venice turpentine (genuine) and sand-
arach, of each 25 ounces; alcohol, 5 pints;
lissolve as before. Used for fixing engrav-
ngs or lithographs on wood, and for gilding,
silvering, <fcc. (Sec No. 2928.)
2920. Map Varnish is prepared by
)ulverizing 1 ounce sandarach, £ ounce mas-
268
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
tich, k ounce elemi, dissolving them in £ ounce
of Yenice turpentine, and adding to it, a solu-
tion of 4 ounces shellac, and 3 ounces oil of
lavender, in 12 ounces alcohol. (See No.
2935.)
2921. Canada Varnish. Clear balsam
of Canada, 4 ounces; camphene, 8 ounces;
warm gently, and shake together till dissolved.
For maps, drawings, &c., they are first sized
over with a solution of isinglass, taking care
that every part is covered; when dry, the
varnish is brushed over it.
2922. Collodion Varnish. The addition
of l»part castor oil to 32 parts collodion, makes
a good varnish; it dries rapidly and does not
penetrate the paper. This varnish will do
very well for coating maps, lists, labels, etc.,
and it will keep for years. If, after a repeat-
ed coating, white spots should appear, moist-
en them with ether, and they will vanish in-
etantly.
2923. Varnish to Imitate the Chinese.
Put 4 ounces powdered gum-lac, with a piece
of camphor about the size of a hazelnut, into
a strong bottle, with 1 pound good spirits of
wine. Shake the bottle from time to time,
and set it over some hot embers to mix for 24
hours, if it be in winter ; in summer time it
may be exposed to the sun. Pass the whole
through a fine cloth, and throw away what
remains upon it. Let it settle for 24 hours ;
separate gently the clear part in the upper
part of the bottle, and put into another phial ;
the remains will serve for the first layers or
coatings.
2924. Varnish for Drawings and
Lithographs. Take of dextrine, 2 parts;
alcohol, i part; water, 2 parts. These should
be prepared previously with 2 or 3 coats of
thin starch or rice boiled and strained through
a cloth. (See No. 2927.)
2925. To Purify Dextrine. Eager
gives a method for rendering dextrine pure, or
at least freer from foreign odor and taste.
For this purpose he dissolves 10 parts of good
dextrine, with stirring, in 18 of cold distilled
water, allows the mixture to stand for some
days, decants and strains it from the sediment.
The clear liquid is then to be mixed with
once and a half to twice its volume of alcohol
fortius (see No. 1439) ; after some hours the
liquor is separated from the pasty mass, which
is then once more dissolved in a small quanti-
ty of water, and spread on glass or porcelain
to dry at a temperature not exceeding 140°
Fahr.
2926. Le Blond's Varnish. Keep 4
pounds balsam of copaiba warm in a sand or
water bath, and add 16 ounces copal (previ-
ously fused and coarsely powdered), by single
ounces, daily, and stir it frequently. "When
dissolved add a little Ohio turpentine.
2927. De Sylvestre's Dextrine Var-
nish. Dextrine, 2 parts ; water, 6 parts :
rectified spirit, 1 part. (Sec No. 2924.)
2928. Transfer Varnish. For trans-
ferring and fixing engravings or lithographs
on wood, and for gilding, silvering, etc. Dis-
solve 4 ounces mastich (in tears), and 4 oun-
ces sandarach, in 1* pints rectified spirit; add
k pint pure Canada balsam. (See No. 2919.)
2929. To Dissolve Amber. There is
no difficulty in dissolving amber in chloroform,
but people are apt to think they fail, from the
circumstance that it is only partially soluble.
Take some broken amber, reduce to a coarse
powder, and place in a bottle with rather more
than enough chloroform to cover them well ;
shake often, and in a few days, by pouring a
drop or two of the clear liquid on a glass plate,
a varnish of good body, which gives a strong
glaze, may be obtained. Or an amber varnish
may bo made as follows : Take of amber, 3
ounces; benzole, 50 ounces; heat the amber
in a closed vessel to a temperature of about
570° Fahr. "When it begins to soften and
swell, emitting white fumes, then dissolve in
the benzole.
2930. Amber Varnish for Photo-
graphs. Dissolve 3 to 4 grains amber in 1
ounce chloroform. (See No. 2929.)
2931. Brilliant Amber Spirit Var-
nish. Fused amber, 4 ounces ; sandarach
and mastich, of each 4 ounces ; highly rectified
spirit, 1 quart. Expose to the heat of a sand-
bath, with occasional agitation, till dissolved.
(The amber is fused in a close copper vessel,
having a funnel-shaped projection, which
passes through the bottom of the furnace by
which the vessel is heated.)
2932. Hare's Colorless Varnish for
Photographs. Dissolve shellac by heat in
8 parts of water and 1 of pearlash. Precipi-
tate by chlorine, and dissolve in rectified
spirit. ( See JVwf. 2933 to 2935.)
2933. Bookbinders' and Colorless
Varnish. Mr. A. Schmidt gives the follow-
ing directions for making these and several
other beautiful varnishes: For 1 pound
good shellac take 4 ounces crystallized car-
bonate of soda, and 1 h gallons water ; put the
whole in a clean iron or copper vessel of dou-
ble the capacity, and, under constant stirring,
bring it to boiling over a slow fire. The shel-
lac will dissolve, and, if it is intended to make
colorless French varnish (see No. 2935), the
solution has to be run through a woolen cloth.
For brown bookbinders' varnish, or a colorless
varnish for maps, photographs, etc., the solu-
tion has to boil for about an hour longer, but
only simmering, and then to cool very slowly
without stirring; better let it stand over
night, and let the firo go out under it. In the
morning a wax-like substance will be found
on the surface of the solution, and the other
impurities of the shellac as a deposit on the
bottom of the vessel. The solution is like-
wise to be run through a woolen cloth and
then to be filtered. (See No. 2934.) To make a
transparent brown varnish — bookbinders' var-
nish— this filtered solution has to be precipita-
ted with diluted sulphuric acid (1 part acid to
20 parts water), the precipitate collected on a
coarse muslin cloth, and washed out with cold
clear water till it runs through without taste.
(See No. 24.) Then fill a stone or wooden ves-
sel with boiling water, and throw the precipi-
tate in it; it will directly soften and stick to-
gether; this half mass has to bo kneaded in the
hands, doubled tip, melted, and drawn out till
it assumes a fine silky lustre, then drawn out
to the desired thickness in sticks, like candy,
and it is then ready for solution. To make
the BOOKBINDERS' VARNISH, dissolve 1 part
of the precipitate in 2i parts 95 per cent, al-
cohol. To make the COLORLESS VARNISH,
dissolve 1 part of the precipitate in the same
quantity of alcohol. Add 1£ drachms oil of
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
lavender to each pint. The colorless varnish
will look like whey, but more transparent.
2934. Filter for Shellac. To make a
filter for shellac, take a small wooden keg, re-
move the top and bottom, and fasten to one
side a piece of muslin ; on the muslin bring
about 4 inches fine, washed sand, and on top
of the sand a layer of clean straw; then
pour the solution into the filter and let it
run through. Should the first portion run
through be not perfectly clear, like red French
wine, it has to be brought back to the filter.
"When nothing more will rim through, pour
some clean water on the filter to wash the re-
maining solution out.
2935. French Transparent Colorless
Varnish. To make white French trauspa-
rent colorless varnish for maps, the solution
(sec No. 2933) has to be bleached. The
bleaching fluid is made as follows, and the
proportions are for 1 pound of shellac: Take 1
pound good English chloride of lime, dissolve
it in 14 pounds cold water, triturating the
lumps well ; let it subside, and decant the clear
fluid ; add 7 pounds of water to the residue,
and, when subsided, add the clear liquor to
the other ; precipitate this liquor with a solu-
tion of carbonate of soda, let the carbonate of
lime settle, and decant the clear chloride of
soda; wash the sediment out with water, and
add the clear liquid to the former, put it in a
high stone jar, and give it a rotary motion
with a wooden stick, pouring in at the same
time very diluted sulphuric acid, till it as-
sumes a greenish color and a smell of chlorine
is perceptible. Then add some of this liquid
to the solution to be bleached, under constant
stirring, till all the color is gone. French
polish will look like milk. Then precipitate
with dilute sulphuric acid, exactly as the solu-
tion for bookbinders' varnish, and treat the
precipitate in the same manner, in hot water.
(See No. 2933.) All iron must be carefully
avoided as soon as tho chlorine liquor is add-
ed. Dissolve 1 pint of tho above m 3 pints of
95 per cent, alcohol, and do not add any oil
of lavender, as in No. 2933. For photographs
this solution is too strong ; 1 part of bleached
shellac to G parts alcohol will answer. For
maps the solution should not be applied im-
mediately to the paper, but the latter should
first receive a coat of boiled and strained
starch.
2936. Wax Varnish, or Milk of
Wax. Pure white wax, 1 pound ; melt
with as gentle a heat as possible, and warm
spirit of wine (90 per cent.), 1 pint; mix per-
fectly, and pour the liquid out upon a cold
porphyry slab ; nest grind it with a muller to
a perfectly smooth paste, with the addition
of more spirit as required; put tho paste into
a marble mortar, make an emulsion with 3£
pints gradually added, and strain through
umsliu. Used as a varnish for paintings;
when dry, a hot iron is passed over it, or heat
is otherwise evenly applied, so as to fuse it,
and render it transparent: when quite cold it
is polished with a clean linen cloth. The most
protective of all varnishes. Many ancient
Saintings owe their freshness at tho present
av to this varnish.
2937. Wax Varnish for Furniture.
Wax, 3 ounces; oil of turpentine, 1 quart;
dissolve by a gentle heat. Used for furniture.
2938. Varnish for Paper Hangings,
Maps, Prints, &c. Take of genuine pale
Canada- balsam and rectified oil of turpentine,
equal parts, and mix thoroughly. Give tho
articles 2 coats of size before varnishing.
2939. Varnish for Card- Work, Bas-
kets, &c. Take black, red, or any other
colored sealing-wax, according to fancy ; .
break it into small pieces, and add enough
rectified or methylated spirit to cover it ; let
the vessel stand near the fire for 2 days until
it is quite dissolved. Give the article 2 coats
of size before varnishing. The size is made
by dissolving parchment cuttings in boiling
water. This i.$ a most useful varnish for fret-
work, card- work, baskets, <fec.
2940. Water Lac Varnish. Palo
shellac, 5 ounces; borax, 1 ounce; water,!
pint; digest at nearly the boiling point, until
dissolved ; then strain. Equal to the more
costly spirit varnish for many purposes ; it is
an excellent vehicle for water colors, inks,
&c. ; when dry it is waterproof.
2941. Transparent Green Varnish.
A beautifully transparent green varnish is
made by taking a small quantity of "Chinese
blue," with about twice the amount of finely
powdered chromato of potash, and stirring
these in copal varnish thinned with turpen-
tine. A thorough grinding of this mixture
must bo made for tho purpose of intimately
incorporating tho ingredients, as otherwise it
will not be transparent. A preponderance of
chromate of potash gives a yellowish shado
to the green, and a deficiency increases tho
amount of blue. This varnish, thus colored,
produces a very striking effect in japanned
goods, paper-hangings, etc., and can be made
very cheaply.
2942. Aniline Transparent Var-
nishes. The aniline colors are particularly
well adapted for tho manufacture of transpa-
rent lacs, which possess great intensity even
in very thin films, and are hence very suita-
ble for coloring glass or mica. The process
recommended by F. Springmuhl is to pro
pare separately an alcoholic solution of
bleached shellac or saudarach, and a concen-
trated alcoholic solution of the coloring mat-
ter, which last is added to the lac before using
it; the glass or mica to bo coated being slight
ly warmed. Colored films of great beauty
may also bcobtained, according to Springmuhl,
from colored solutions of gun cotton in other,
the coloring matter being here dissolved m
alcohol and ether. The collodion film has its
elasticity greatly increased by the addition of
some turpentine oil ; and when applied cold,
can be removed entire. Tho colored films
may now bo cut into any pattern, and again
attached to transparent objects.
2943. Aniline Black Varnish. An
aniline black varnish, of •recent Parisian
production, is tho following : Dissolve CJ
drachms avoirdupois of aniline blue, If
drachms of fuchsine, and 4.} drachms t:f
naphthaline yellow, m 1 quart alcohol. Tho
whole is dissolved by agitation in less than 12
hours. One application renders au object
ebony black ; the varnish can bo filtered, and
will never deposit afterwards.
2944. Transparent Varnish for
Prints and Pictures. Dilute i pound
Venice turpentine with a gill, or thereabouts,
27O
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
of spirits of wine. If too thick, a little more
of the latter ; if not enough, a little more of
the former ; so that it is brought to the con-
sistence of milk. Lay 1 coat of this on the
right side of the print, and, when dry, it will
shine like glass. If it is not satisfactory, lay
on another coat.
2945. To Make the Design of a
Print Appear in Gold. After having
laid on both sides of the print one coat of the
varnish described in JSTo. 2944, in order to
make it transparent,, let it dry a little while ;
then, before it is quite dry, lay some gold in
leaves on the wrong side of the print, pressing
it gently on with a cotton pad. By these
means, all parts where these leaves have been
laid will appear like massive gold on the
right side. When this is all thoroughly dry,
lay on the right side of it one coat of the
varnish described above, and it will then be
as good as any crown glass. A pasteboard
may be put behind the print, to support it
better in its frame.
2946. Clear Gutta-Percha Solution.
Cut gutta-percha into thin strips and put it in
a glass bottle, and add as much chloroform as
makes a thick paste. This paste is then
placed in very hot water, and kneaded with
the fingers. After considerable manipulation
the gutta-percha loses much of its color, and
if this process is repeated, becomes very near-
ly colorless, having only a pale straw tint.
A chloroform solution may then be made of
any strength, which is useful for many pur-
poses— when thin, as a substitute for court
plaster, and when thick, as a stopping for
decayed teeth.
2947. Solvents for India-B-ubber
and Gutta-Percha to Make Flexible
Varnish. Rubber does not dissolve easily
enough to give a varnish by simply placing
it in a bottle with the solvent. Sulphuric
ether is one of its regular solvents, but then
it must be pure rectified ether, and not the
mixture of ether and alcohol which is sold for
ether in many drug stores. It also must be
pure rubber, and not the sulphur-vulcanized
article. The pure rubber must be cut into
small pieces, soaked in the ether in a warm
place for about 24 hours until they are swollen
up, and then it must be kneaded in a mortar.
In such a way rubber varnishes may be made
even with common benzine. "When treated
with hot benzole (from coal tar, not benzine
from petroleum), it swells to 30 times its
former bulk ; and if then triturated with a
pestle, and pressed through a sieve, it affords
a homogeneous varnish, which being applied
by a flat edge of metal or wood to cloth, pre-
pares it for forming waterproof cloth. Chloro-
form and the bisulphuret of carbon dissolve
India-rubber and gutta-percha in the cold.
Turpentine disintegrates and dissolves India-
rubber and gutta-percha when hot. The
fixed oils also readily dissolve them with the
aid of heat. When India-rubber remains
sticky after working it, it is a proof that the
temperature was too high, or that too much
turpentine was used in the solutions or var-
nishes; turpentine rubber varnish has natu-
rally a tendency to dry sticky ; benzole or the
fixed oils are better. (See No. 2248.)
2948. Flexible Varnish for Balloons,
etc. Digest cold, 1-J- ounces India-rubber,
cut small, in 1 pint of either chloroform, sul-
phuric ether (washed), or bisulphuret of car-
bon. This dries as soon as laid on.
2949. India-Rubber Varnish. Digest
in a closed vessel, at a gentle heat, 1 ounce
India-rubber shavings in 1 pint of rectified
mineral naphtha, or benzole; then strain it.
This dries very badly, and never gets perfect-
ly hard.
2950. Tough India-Rubber Varnish.
Dissolve by heat 1 ounce India-rubber in 1
quart of drying oil. This dries very tough in
about 48 hours.
2951. Flexible Varnish. Boil 3 ounces
dried white copperas, 3 ounces sugar of lead,
and 8 ounces litharge, in 1 gallon linseed oil ;
stir constantly until it strings well, then cool
slowly and decant the clear portion. If too
thick, thin with quick-drying linseed oil.
2952. Colpin's India-Bubber Varnish.
India-rubber in small pieces, washed and
dried, are fused for 3 hours in a close vessel,
on a gradually heated sand-bath. On remov-
ing from the sand-bath, open the vessel and
stir for 10 minutes, then close again, and re-
peat the fusion on the following day, until
small globules appear on the surface." Then
strain through a wire sieve.
2953. Metallic Varnish, or Var-
nisher's Amalgam. Melt 4 ounces grain tin
(see Index) with 1 ounce bismuth ; add 1
ounce quicksilver, and stir till cold; then grind
it very fine with white of egg or varnish, and
apply this metallic varnish to the figure to be
coated.
2954. Varnish for Gun Barrels. The
varnish used for gun barrels, after they are
bronzed, is made by dissolving 1 ounce of
shellac and 1 or 2 drachms of dragon's blood
in a quart of alcohol, and filtering the solu-
tion through blotting paper into a bottle,
which must be kept closely corked. This
varnish, being laid on the barrel, and become
perfectly dry, must be rubbed with a bur-
nisher to render it smooth and glossy.
2955. Submarine Varnish. Resin, 2
parts; galipot, 2 parts ; essence of turpentine,
40 parts. Melt the above, and add, in the
form of very fine powder, and well mixed,
sulphide of copper, 18 parts ; regulus of anti-
mony, 2 parts. This varnish is said to pro-
tect wood from worms, and to prevent the ad-
herence of barnacles and parasites to the bot-
tom of ships. It also preserves iron from ox-
idation.
2956. Varnish for Iron. The following
is a method given by M. "Weiszkopf, of pro-
ducing upon iron a durable black shining var-
nish: Take oil of turpentine, add to it, drop
by drop, and while stirring, strong sulphuric
acid, until a syrupy precipitate is quite formed,
and no more of it is produced on further ad-
dition of a drop of acid. The liquid is now
repeatedly washed away with water, every
time renewed after a good stirring, until the
water does not exhibit any more acid reaction
on being tested with blue litmus paper. The
precipitate is next brought upon a cloth filter,
and, after all the water has run off, the syrupy
mass is fit for use. This thickish deposit is
painted over the iron with a brush ; if it hap-
pens to be too stiff, it is previously diluted
with some oil of turpentine. Immediately
after the iron has been so painted, the paint
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
271
is burnt in by a gentle heat, and, after cool-
ing, the black surface is rubbed over with a
piece of woolen stuff dipped in, and moistened
with linseed oil. According to "Weiszkopf,
this varnish is not a simple covering of the
surface, but it is chemically combined with
the metal, and does not, therefore, wear or
peel off the iron, as is the case with other
paints and varnishes.
2957. Brilliant French Varnish for
Boots and Shoes. Take £ of a pint spirits
of wine ; 5 pints white wine ; ^ pound pow-
dered gum Senegal ; 6 ounces loaf sugar ; 2
ounces powdered galls; 4 ounces green cop-
peras. Dissolve the sugar and gum in the
wine. When dissolved, strain; then put it
on a slow fire, being careful not to let it boil.
In this state put in the galls, copperas, and
the alcohol, stirring it well for five minutes.
Then remove from the fire, and, when nearly
cool, strain through flannel, and bottle for
use. It is applied with a pencil brush. If
not sufficiently black, a little sulphate of iron,
and half a pint of a strong decoction of log-
wood, may be added, with ^ ounce pearl-
ash.
2958. Varnish for Fastening1 the
Leather on Top Rollers in Factories.
Dissolve 2£ ounces of gum-arabic in water
and a like amount of isinglass dissolved in
brandy, and it is fit for use.
2959. Varnish for Engraving on
Glass. "Wax, 1 ounce; mastich, i ounce; as-
phaltum, J ounce; turpentine, i drachm.
2960. Etchinff Varnishes. White
wax, 2 ounces; aspnaltum, 2 ounces. Melt
the wax in a clean pipkin, add the asphaltum
in powder, and boil to a proper consistence.
Pour it into warm water, and form it into
balls, which must be kneaded, and put into
taffeta for use. Or: white wax, 2 ounces; Bur-
gundy pitch, J ounce; black pitch, -J ounce.
Melt together, aud add by degrees 2 ounces
powdered asphaltum, and boil it till a drop
cooled on a plate becomes brittle.
2961. Etching Fluid for Copper.
Aquafortis, 2 ounces ; water, 5 ounces. Mix.
2962. Callot's Eau Forte for Fine
Touches. Dissolve 4 parts each of verdi-
gris, alum, sea salt, and sal ammoniac, in 8
parts vinegar ; add 16 parts water, boil for a
minute, and let it cool.
2963. Etching Fluid for Steel. Io-
dine, 1 ounce ; iron filings, ± drachm ; water,
4 ounces. Digest till the iron is dissolved.
Or: pyroligneous acid, 4 parts by measure;
alcohol, 1 part. Mix, and add 1 part double
aquafortis (specific gravity 1.28). Apply it
from 1£ to 15 minutes.
2964. To Make Colored Prints Re-
semble Oil Paintings. Take of Canada
balsam, 1 ounce ; spirit of turpentine, 2 oun-
ces ; mix them together. Before this com-
position is applied, the drawing or print
should be sized with a solution of isinglass in
water, and, when dry, the varnish should be
applied with a camel's-hair brush.
2965. To Varnish Drawings, or any
Kind of Paper or Card Work. Dissolve
1 ounce best isinglass in about 1 pint water,
by simmering it over the fire ; strain it
through fine muslin, and keep it for use. Try
the size on a piece of paper moderately warm.
If it glistens, it is too thick, and requires more
water; if it soaks into the paper, it is too
thin, and needs more isinglass ; it should
merely dull the surface. Then give the
drawing 2 or 3 coats, letting it dry between
each, being careful (particularly in the first
coat) to bear very lightly on the brush
(which should be a flat camel's-hair), from
which the size should flow freely ; otherwise,
the drawing may be damaged. Then take the
best mastich varnish, and with it give at least
3 coats. This is the method used by many
eminent artists, and is found superior to any
that has been tried.
2966. Varnish for Shoes. Put £
pound gum shellac, broken up in small pieces,
into a quart bottle or jug, cover it with
alcohol, cork it tight, and put it on a shelf in
a warm place ; shake it well several times a
day, then add a piece of camphor as large as
a hen's egg, shake it well, and in a few hours
shake it again and add 1 ounce lampblack.
If the alcohol is good it will all be dissolved in
2 days ; then shake and use. if it gets too
thick, add alcohol, pour out 2 or 3 tea-spoon-
fuls in a saucer, and apply it with a small
paint brush. If the materials are all good it
will dry in about 5 minutes, giving a gloss
equal to patent leather, and will be removed
only by wearing it off. The advantage of
this preparation over others is, it does- not
strike into the leather and make it hard, but
remains on the surface, and yet excludes the
water almost perfectly. The same prepara-
tion is admirable for harness, and does not
soil when touched, as is usually the case with
lampblack preparations.
2967. Varnish for Harness. Take
95 per cent, alcohol, 1 gallon; white pine
turpentine, !$• pounds; gum shellac, li
pounds; Yenice turpentine, 1 gill. Let these
stand in a jug in the sun or by a stove until
the gums are dissolved, then add sweet oil, 1
gill ; and lampblack, 2 ounces ; rub the lamp-
black first with a little of the varnish. This
varnish is better than the old style, from the
fact that its polish is as good, and it does not
crack when the harness is twisted or knocked
about.
2968. Flexible Japan Black for
Leather. Burnt umber, 8 ounces; true
asphaltum, 3 or 4 ounces ; boiled linseed oil,
1 gallon; grind the umber with a little of the
oil ; add it to the asphaltum, previously dis-
solved in a small quantity of the oil by heat ;
mix, add the remainder of the oil ; boil, cool,
and thin with a sufficient quantity of oil of
turpentine.
2969. Inflexible Japan Black for
Leather. Shellac, 1 ounce ; wood naphtha,
4 ounces ; lampblack to color; dissolve.
2970. Varnish or Enamel for Coating
the Insides of Casks. A new application
of charcoal has recently been made in Eng-
land for the manufacture of a permanent
enamel, or varnish for coating the insides of
casks. The charcoal, which is made from the
wood of Salix Alba (white willow), is reduced
tova very fine powder, and mixed with proper
proportions of shellac and methylated spirit.
When ready for use it is laid on with a brush,
and the' inside of the cask is fired, so as to
remove the spirit and leave only the lining of
charcoal and shellac ; it is then coated again
and fired a second time, after which it is
272
VARNISHING.
allowed to stand a short time before being
used. This composition is said to form a
perfect enamel, and, while it prevents any
chance of leakage, it preserves the casks in an
extraordinary manner. It answers admirably
for beer and acids, and is largely adopted by
some of our principal brewers.
The art of applying
V varnishes to*various surfaces. -This
.requires experience and care, both in the
selection of appropriate varnishes, and in the
manner of applying them.
2972. To Finish Walnut Wood for
Varnishing. Mix, with good whiting, such
colors as will produce as near as possible the
color of the wood to be filled. This mixture
to be dry. Then give the wood a good coat
of oil, and sprinkle the mixture over the work
until it is pretty well covered ; then, with a
soft rag or other soft substance, rub this in
well. Wipe off all superfluous material. Let
* *-*• This mode is
regular coat. This must be done as quickly
as 'possible; and yet not quickly enough to
cause the varnish to foam or bubble as it
leaves the brush, always taking care not to
pass the brush twice over the same place, if it
can possibly be avoided. Let it stand to dry in
a moderately warm place, that the varnish
may not chill. Varnish must always be ap-
plied in a moderately warm room, where the
air is dry and free from dust ; and care must
be taken never to apply a second coat until
the former one has become quite dry. It re-
quires practice to find out how much varnish
to take in the brash. Enough must be left
on an upright surface to ensure a perfect
coating ; but too much will settle downwards
before it sets and make unsightly ridges as it
dries. On a horizontal surface, a trifle more
varnish can be applied than on an upright
one, but not much more ; as a too thick coat-
ing, even if it cannot ran, will dry neither
hard nor smooth. After giving the work
about 6 or 7 coats, let it get quite hard
(which you will prove by pressing your
knuckles on it; if it leave a mark, it is not
hard enough) ; then, with the first three
dry thoroughly, and varnish,
far superior to sizing.
2973. Finishing Walnut. For filling
walnut wood, there arc many compounds in | you mean to polish, in order to take out all
use, several of them under patentsj that the streaks or partial lumps made by the
fingers of the hand, rub the varnish until it
chafes, and proceed over that part of the work
which discolors the wood the least, and at the
same time produces a fine finish, is the most
simple of them all, being nothing but fine rye
flour mixed with boiled oil, Japan and turpen-
tine, ground fine in a paint mill, and slightly
colored with burnt umber.
2974. To Varnish Walnut Furniture.
In dressing over old furniture, the first thing
to be done is to wash it over with lime, or
soda and water, to remove all effects of grease
from sweaty hands, which will prevent var-
nish from flowing freely or hardening well.
If the work requires refilling, rye flour, wheat
flour, corn starch, or Paris white, ground fine
in oil and turpentine, will do ; but 1 or 2 coats
of shellac should be laid on and rubbed
smooth before applying the varnish. "Work
finished in oil, without varnish, should be
filled with a harder substance than starch.
Some use white wax reduced in turpentine ;
but what is better is a compound of equal
parts, by weight, of whiting, plaster of Paris,
pumice stone, and litharge, to which may bo
added a little French yellow, asphaltum, van-
dyke brown, and terra di Sienna. Mix with
1 part Japan, 2 of boiled oil, and 3 of turpen-
tine. Grind fine in a mill. Lay the filling
on with a brash, rub it in well, let it set 20
minutes, then rub off clean. Let it harden 2
or 3 days, then rub smooth, and, if required,
repeat the process. When the filling is satis-
factory, finish with linseed oil, put oil with a
brush ; wipe off, and rub to a polish with fine
cotton ; finish with a silk handkerchief, or
any fine fabric. "When the furniture is
cleaned and filled, proceed as directed in the
next receipt.
2975. To Varnish Furniture. "When
the work is quite clean, fill up all knots or
blemishes with cement of the same color.
See that the brush is clean, and free from
loose hairs ; then dip it in the tarnish, stroke
it along the wire raised across the top of the
varnish pot, and give tho work a thin and
brush; then give it another coat, and let it
stand a day or two to harden. The best
vessel for holding varnish is sold at color
shops, called a varnish pan. It is constructed
of tin, with a false bottom ; the interval be-
tween the two bottoms is filled with sand,
which, being heated over the fire, keeps the
varnish fluid, and it flows more readily from
the brush. There is a tin handle to it, and
the false bottom slopes from one end to the
other, which causes the varnish to run to one
end. It has also a wire fixed across the top,
to wipe the brush against.
2976. To Polish Varnished Surfaces.
To give the highest degree of lustre to varnish
after it is laid on, as well as to remove the
marks of tho brash, it undergoes the operation
of polishing. This is performed by first rub-
bing it with very finely powdered pumice
stone and water ; afterwards, patiently, with
an oiled rag and Tripoli until the required
polish is produced. The surface is then
cleaned off with soft linen cloths, cleared of
all greasiness with powdered starch, and then
rubbed bright with the palm of the hand.
2977. To Keep Brushes in Order.
The brushes used for varnishing are either
flat in tin, or round, tied firm to the handle,
and made cither of cainePs-hair or very fine
bristles. Oil varnishes are
brushes of fine bristles ; lac
applied with
varnishes
flowed on with camel's-hair brushes. It is
necessary to be very careful in cleaning them
after being used ; for, if laid by with the var-
nish in them, they aro soon spoiled. There-
fore, after using, wash them well in spirits of
wine or turpentine, according to the nature of
the varnish ; after which they may be washed
out with hot water and soap, when they will
bo as good as new, and last a great while
with care. The spirits that are used for
cleaning may be used to mix with vnrni^h for
tho more common purposes, or the brashes
may be cleaned merely with boiling water
POLISHING.
273
yellow soap.
2978. To
Restore Furniture. An
containing a little washing soda, and strong : stone, free from stony particles, and cut the
way of the fibres, rub the wood in the direc-
tion of the grain, keeping it moist with water.
Let the work dry; then wet it again, and
the grain will be much smoother, and will not
raise so much. Repeat the process, and the
surface will become perfectly smooth, and the
experienced cabinet-maker informs us that
the best preparation for cleaning picture
frames and restoring furniture, especially that
somewhat marred or scratched, is a mixture
of three parts of linseed oil and one part texture of the wood much hardened. If this
spirits of turpentine. It not only covers the
disfigured surface, but restores wood to its
original color, and leaves a lustre upon the
surface. Put on with a woolen cloth, and
when dry, rub with woolen.
Polishing.
work depend
enough, particularly
all so'ft. A good gh
The beauty of cabinet-
work depends upon the care with
which it is finished. Some clean off with
scraping and rubbing with glass paper. This
should be done in all cases ; but it is not
where the grain is at
ass-paper also is essen-
tial. (See No. 1933.) A polish should then
be added. But, unless the varnish for cab-
inet-work be very clear and bright, it will
give a dingy shade to all light-colored woods.
This should, therefore, be a previous care.
Again, some workmen polish with rotten
stone, others with putty-powder, and others
with common whiting and water ; but Tripoli
will be found to answer the best.
2980. To Polish Varnish is certainly a
tedious process, and considered by many as a
matter of difficulty. Put 2 ounces powdered
Tripoli into an earthen pot or basin, with
water sufficient to cover it ; then, with a piece
of fine flannel four times doubled, laid over a
piece of cork rubber, proceed to polish the
varnish, always wetting it well with the
Tripoli and water. It will be known when the
process is complete by wiping a part of the
work with a sponge, and observing whether
there is a fair and even gloss. Clean off with
a bit of mutton-suet and fine flour. Be care-
ful not to rub the work too hard, or longer
than is necessary to make the face perfectly
smooth and even.
2981. The French Method of Polish-
ing. With a piece of fine pumice-stone, and
water, pass regularly over the work with the
grain until the rising of the grain is down;
then, with powdered Tripoli and boiled lin-
seed oil, polish the work to a bright face.
This will be a very superior polish, but it re-
quires considerable time.
2982. To Polish Brass Ornaments
Inlaid in Wood. The brass-work must
first be filed very even with a smooth file;
then, having mixed some very finely pow-
dered Tripoli with linseed oil, polish the work
with a rubber made from a piece of old hat or
felt, as you would polish varnish, until the
desired effect is produced. If the work be
ebony, or black rosewood, take some elder-
coal, powdered very fine, and apply it dry
after you have done with the Tripoli. It will
increase the beauty of the polish.
2983. To Clean Soft Mahogany or
other Porous Wood. After scraping and
sand-papering in the usual manner, take a
sponge and well wet the surface, to raise the
grain ; then, with a piece of fine pumice-
does not succeed to satisfaction, the surface
may be improved by using the pumice-stone
with cold-drawn linseed oil, proceeding iri
the same manner as with water. This will be
found to give a most beautiful as well as a
d&rable face to the work, which may then bo
polished or varnished.
2984. To Clean and Finish Mahog-
any Work. Scrape and saud-paper the work
as smooth as possible ; go over every part with
a brush dipped in furniture oil, and let it re-
main all night ; have ready the powder of the
finest red brick, which tie up in a cotton
stocking, and sift equally over the work the
next morning, and, with a leaden or iron
weight in a piece of carpet, rub it well the
way of the grain, backward and forward, till
it has a good gloss. If not sufficient, or if the
grain appears at all rough, repeat the pro-
cess. Be careful not to put too much of the
brick-dust, as it should not be rubbed dry,
but rather as a paste upon the cloth. When
the surface is perfectly smooth, clean it off
with a rubber of carpet and fine mahogany
saw-dust. This process will give a good
gloss, and make a surface that will improve
by wear.
2985. To Clean and Polish Old Fur-
niture. Take a quart of stale beer or vine-
gar, put a handful of common salt and a
table-spoonful of muriatic acid into it, and
boil it for 15 minutes ; it may be kept in a
bottle, and wanned when wanted for use.
Having previously washed the furniture with
soft hot water, to get the dirt off, wash it care-
fully with the above mixture; then polish,
according to the directions, with any of the
foregoing polishes.
2986. Mixture for Cleaning Furni-
ture. Cold-drawn linseed oil, 1 quart; spirit
sint each; butter
2 ounces ; spirit of
turpentine, \ pint. This mixture requires to
be well shaken before it is used. A little of
it is then to be poured upon a rubber, which
must be well applied to the surface of the fur-
niture ; several applications will be necessary
for new furniture, or for such as had previous-
ly been French polished or rubbed with bees'
wax.
2987. Furniture Polish. Dissolve 4
ounces best shellac in 2 pints 95 per cent, al-
cohol; add to this 2 pints linseed oil, and 1
pint spirits of turpentine ; when mixed, add
4 ounces sulphuric ether, and 4 ounces am-
monia water ; mix thoroughly. Shake when
used, and apply with a sponge lightly. This
is an excellent article, especially where the
varnish has become old and tarnished.
2988. Polishing Paste. Take 3 ounces
white wax, i ounce Castile soap, 1 gill tur-
pentine. Shave the wax and soap very fine
and put the wax to the turpentine; let it
stand 24 hours ; then boil the soap in 1 gill
water, and add to the wax and turpentine.
This has been highly recommended.
of wine, and vinegar,
(terchloride) of antimony,
274:
FRENCH POLISHING.
2989. Furniture Polish. Bees' wax, J
pound ; alkanet root, J ounce ; melt together
in a pipkin until the former is well colored.
Then add linseed oil, and spirits of turpentine,
of each £ gill; strain through a piece of coarse
muslin.
2990. Furniture Paste. Turpentine, 1
pint; alkanet root, Bounce; digest until suf-
ficiently colored, then add bees' wax, scraped
small, 4 ounces ; put the vessel into hot wa-
ter and stir until dissolved. If wanted pale,
the alkanet may be omitted.
2991. Composition for Soft or Light
Mahogany. Boil together cold-drawn 1m-
seed oil, and as much alkanet root as it will
cover, and to every pint of oil add 1 ounce of
the best rose pink. "When all the color is ex-
tracted, strain it off, and to every pint add |
gill spirits of turpentine. This will be a very
superior composition for soft and light ma-
hogany.
2992. To Wax Furniture. In waxing,
it is of great importance to make the coating
as thin as possible, in order that the veins of
the wood may be distinctly seen. The follow-
ing preparation is the best for performing this
operation: Put 2 ounces white and yellow
wax over a moderate fire, in a very clean ves-
sel, and, when it is quite melted, add 4 ounces
best spirits of turpentine. Stir the whole
until it is entirely cool, and you will have a
Eomade fit for waxing furniture, which must
e rubbed over it according to the usual
method. The oil soon penetrates the pores of
the wood, brings out the color of it, causes
the wax to adhere better, and produces a lustre
equal to that of varnish, without being subject
to any of its inconveniences. The polish may
be renewed at any time by rubbing it with a
piece of fine cork.
Tprench Polishing. The
JL. method of varnishing furniture by means
of rubbing it on the surface of the wood, is of
comparatively modern date. To put on a
hard face, which shall not be so liable to
scratch as varnish, and yet appear equally
fine, the French polish was introduced. Below
we give a full direction of the process, and
also the various preparations of the different
compositions necessary.
2994. To French Polish. The varnish
being prepared (shellac), the article to be
polished being finished off as smoothly as
possible with glass paper, and the rubber
being made as directed below, proceed to the
operation as follows : — The varnish, in a nar-
row-necked bottle, is to be applied to the
middle of the flat face of the rubber, by laying
the rubber on the mouth of the bottle and
shaking up the varnish once, as by this means
the rubber will imbibe the proper quantity to
varnish a considerable extent of surface. The
rubber is then to be enclosed in a soft linen
cloth, doubled, the rest of the Qloth being
gathered up at the back of the rubber to form
a handle, if oisten the face of the linen with
a little raw linseed oil, applied with the finger
to the middle of it. Place the work opposite
the light, pass the rubber quickly and lightly
over its surface uniformly in small circular
strokes, until the varnish becomes dry, or
nearly so ; again charge the rubber as before
with varnish (omitting the oil), and repeat
the rubbing, until three coats are laid on,
when a little oil may be applied to the rubber,
and two coats more given to it. Proceed in
this way until the varriish has acquired some
thickness ; then wet the inside of the linen
cloth, before applying the varnish, with alco-
hol, or wood naphtha, and rub quickly, lightly,
and uniformly, the whole surface. Lastly,
wet the linen cloth with a little oil and
alcohol without varnish, and rub as before till
dry. Each coat is to be rubbed until the rag
appears dry ; and too much varnish must not
be put on the rag at a time. Be also very
particular in letting the rags be very clean
and soft, as the polish depends, in a great
measure, on the care taken in keeping it
clean and free from dust during the operation.
If the work be porous, or the grain coarse, it
will be necessary to give it a coat of clear size
previous to commencing with the polish; and,
when dry, gently go over it with very fine
glass paper. The size will fill up the pores,
and prevent the waste of the polish, by being
absorbed into the wood, and be also a saving
of considerable time in the operation.
2995. To Make a French Polish
Rubber. Roll up a strip of thick woolen
cloth which has been torn off, so as to form a
soft elastic edge. It should form a coil, from
1 to 3 inches in diameter, according to the
size of the work. This rubber is to be secure-
ly bound with thread, to prevent it from un-
coiling when it is used.
2996. Best French Polish. Shellac,
3 parts; gum mastich, 1 part; gum sandarach,
1 part ; spirits of wine, 40 parts ; the mastich
and sandarach must first be dissolved in the
spirits of wine, and then the shellac ; the pro-
cess may be performed by putting them into
a bottle loosely corked, arid placing it in a
vessel of water heated to a little below 173°
Fahr., or the boiling point of spirits of wine,
until the solution be effected ; the clear solu-
tion may be poured off into another bottle for
use. Various receipts for the French polish
have been published, in which ingredients are
inserted that are insoluble in spirits of wine,
and therefore useless ; and others contain in-
gredients that are soluble in water, so as to
render the mixture more easily injured.
2997. Common French Polish. A
solution of shellac in wood naphtha, (pyrox-
ilic spirit). (See No. 2999.)
2998. Mastich French Polish. Pale
shellac, 3 pounds ; mastich, 6 ounces ; 90 per
cent alcohol, 3 quarts. (See next receipt.)
2999. Sandarach French Polish.
Shellac, 2 pounds; mastich and sandarach
(both in powder), of each 1 ounce; copal var-
nish, 12 ounces; alcohol, 1 gallon. All the
above are made in the cold by frequently stir-
ring or shaking the ingredients together in a
well-closed bottle or other vessel. French
polish is used without filtering.
3000. True French Polish. To 1 pint
spirits of wine add i ounce each gum copal
and sandarach, and 1 ounce shellac. Let
the gums be well bruised, and sifted through
a piece of muslin. Put the spirits and the
gums together in a vessel that can be closely
corked ; place them near a warm stove, and
TO ENAMEL WOOD-WORK.
275
frequently shake them. In 2 or 3 days they
will be dissolved. Strain the mixture through
a piece of muslin, and keep it tight corked for
use.
3001. French Polish. To 1 pint spirits
of wine add i ounce gum shellac, the same
quantity gum lac, and J ounce gum saudarach;
put these ingredients into a stone bottle near
a fire, frequently shaking it ; when the vari-
ous gums are dissolved it is fit for use.
3002. French Polish. Take 2 ounces
wood naphtha, k ounce best shellac, 1 drachm
gum benzoin; crush the gums, mix them with
the naphtha in a bottle; shake them frequent-
ly till dissolved; it is then ready for use. This
is the clear polish. Take a little cotton wool,
apply a little of the polish to it, cover it
tightly with a linen rag, to which apply a
drop of linseed oil, to prevent it from sticking
to the wood ; use your rubber gently, polish-
ing from a centre in a circular manner ; finish
with a drop of spirits of wine on a clean rub-
ber, which will extract the oil.
3003. To Stain or Color French Pol-
ish. "Wood may be stained or grained any
color or design, by mixing it with the polish,
or dipping the rubber in the color (finely
powdered), at the time you apply the polish.
(See Xo. 3002.) To produce a red, dip the
cotton into dragon's blood (finely powdered),
immediately applying the polish ; then cover
with the linen, and polish. For yellow, use
the best chrome yellow. For blue, ultra-
marine blue, or indigo. For black, ivory or
lampblack, <fec. Graining is produced by
touching or streaking the wood with the color,
as above, in irregular lines or marks, and in
such shapes as the fancy may suggest, then
finishing it with a coat of clear polish.
3004. "Water-Proof Polish. Take 1
pint spirits of wine, 2 ounces gum-benzoin,
i ounce gum sandarach, and i ounce gum
anime ; these must be put into a stoppered
bottle, and placed either in a sand-bath or in
hot water till dissolved ; then strain the mix-
ture, and, after adding about J gill best
clear poppy oil, shake it well up, and put it
by for use.
'3005. Bright Polish. 1 pint spirits of
wine to 2 ounces gum benzoin and i ounce
gum-sandarach, put in a glass bottle corked,
and placed in a sand-bath or hot water until
you find all the gum dissolved, will make a
beautiful clear polish for Tunbridgeware
goods, tea-caddies, &c. It must be shaken
from time to time, and, when all dissolved,
strained through a fine muslin sieve, and
bottled for use.
3006. Prepared Spirits for Finishing
Polish. This preparation is useful for finish-
ing after any of the foregoing receipts, as it
adds to the lustre and durability, as well as
removing every defect, of the other polishes ;
and it gives the surface a most brilliant ap-
peai'ance. Take ^ pint best rectified spirits
of wine, 2 drachms shellac, and 2 drachms
gum-benzoin. Put these ingredients in a
bottle, and keep it in a warm place till the
gum is all dissolved, shaking it frequently ;
when cold, add 2 tea-spoonfuls of the best
flear white poppy oil ; shake them well to-
gether, and it is fit for use. This preparation
is used in the same manner as the foregoing
polishes ; but, in order to remove all dull
places, the pressure in rubbing may be in-
creased.
3007. Strong Polish. To be used in
the carved parts of cabinet-work with a brush,
as in standards, pillars, claws, &c. Dissolve
2 ounces seed lac and 2 ounces white resin in
1 pint spirits of wine. This varnish or polish
must be laid on warm, and if the work can bo
warmed also, it will be so much the better ;
at any rate, moisture and dampness must be
avoided.
3008. How to Give Black Walnut a
Dark Dead Smooth Surface. Take as-
phaltum, pulverize it, place it in a jar or
bottle, pour over it about twice its bulk of
turpentine or benzole, put it in a warm place,
and shake it from time to time. AVhen dis-
solved, strain it and apply it to the wood with
a cloth or stiff brush. If it should make too
dark a stain, thin it with turpentine or ben-
zole. This will dry in a few hours. If it is
desired to bring out the grain still more,
apply a mixture of boiled oil and turpentine ;
this is better than oil alone. Put no oil with
the asphaltum mixture, as it will dry very
slowly. "When the oil is dry the wood can be
polished with the following : Shellac varnish,
of the usual consistency, 2 parts ; boiled oil,
1 part. Shake it well before using. Apply
it to the wood by putting a few drops on a
cloth and rubbing briskly on the wood for a
few moments. This polish works well on old
varnished furniture.
3009. Polish for Turners' Work.
Dissolve sandarach in spirits of wine in the
proportion of 1 ounce sandarach to -J- pint of
spirits ; next shave bees' wax, 1 ounce, and
dissolve it in a sufficient quantity of spirits of
turpentine to make it into a paste ; add the
former mixture by degrees to it ; then with a
woolen cloth apply it to the work while it is
in motion in the lathe, and with a soft linen
rag polish it. It will appear as if highly
varnished.
To Enamel Wood-Work.
This is a process for creating an artifi-
cial, glossy surface of any color on wood, very
durable, and highly ornamental. It consists
of three distinct, successive operations ; first,
the colored coating or surface; next, the
preparation of the surface for polishing ; and
finally, polishing.
3011. To Prepare the Filling-up
Color for Enameling Wood. The filling-
up color, which forms the body of the enamel,
is of the greatest importance to the ultimate
success of the work. Of this material there
are several kinds manufactured — black, brown,
and yellow, for coach painters, japanners, and
others ; but for use in interior decoration it
is preferable to use the white lead filling, as,
by adding the necessary staining colors (which
do not affect the properties of the enamel),
a solid body of color is formed, of the same
tint, or nearly so, as that with which the
work is required to be finished, thus doing
away with the objections which maybe urged
against the black or dark-colored filling. It
is evident that if work which has to be
finished white, or with very light tints of
color, be filled up with dark-colored filling,
276
TO ENAMEL WOOD-WORE.
the number of coats of paiut required to ob-
scure or kill the dark color will be so many
that there will be danger of the work becom-
ing rough and uneven in parts. The white
lead should be ground stiff m turpentine, and
about one-fourth part of the ordinary white
lead, ground in oil added to it, in order to
prevent the enamel cracking, which it has a
tendency to do, except there be some little oil
mixed with it. A sufficient quantity of
polishing copal or best carriage varnish should
now be added to bind it so that it will rub
down easily, which fact cannot be properly
ascertained except by actual trial, inasmuch
as the drying properties of varnishes vary,
and other causes influence the matter. If
there be too much varnish in the stuff the
work will be exceedingly difficult to cut
down, and if too little, it is apt to break up
in rubbing, so that it is always the safest
plan to try the enamel color before commenc-
ing anything important.
3012. To Lay the Color on Enameled
Wood. The color, being properly mixed,
should be laid on the work in the ordinary
manner, using it rather freely. It may be as
well to state here that no filling should be
put upon new work without the same having
had 2 or 3 coats of ordinary oil paint, nor on
old work without its having one coat. This
gives a foundation for the filling. Successive
coats of the filling should now be laid on the
work until there is a sufficient thickness to
cut down to a level surface. One day should
intervene between each coat, in order to allow
it to harden in some degree. When a suffi-
cient number of coats are put on (which num-
ber will, of course, depend upon the state of
"the work to be filled up), it should stand for
2 or 3 weeks, until it is thoroughly hard ; it
will then be ready for cutting down, which is
to be done with a felt rubber, ground pumice
stone, and water.
3013. To Prepare the Rubber for
Enameling Wood. The felt used should
be such as the sculptors use for polishing
marble, which varies in thickness from £ to \
an inch, and about 3 inches square. This
should be fastened with resinous gum to
square pieces of wood of the same size, but 1
inch thick, so as to give a good hold for the
hand in using. These pieces of wood, covered
with felt, may be made of any size or shape
to fit molded surfaces or other inequalities.
3014. To Prepare the Pumice Stone
for Enameling Wood. The pumice stone
to be used should be of different degrees of
fineness, and should be carefully selected, so
as to be sure that it is free from any gritty
substance. It is sold ready ground," but in
situations where it cannot be conveniently
got, it may be prepared from the lump, by
grinding or crushing with a stone and muller,
and then passed through fine sieves or mus-
lin; by using these of different degrees of
texture the ground pumice may bo produced
of different degrees of fineness. Unless great
care bo exercised in this matter, it will be
found that particles of grit will be mixed with
it, which make deep scratches on the work,
thus causing endless trouble and annoyance,
besides spoiling the work. The greatest care
is also required in keeping the felt clean and
free from grit. Many workmen are careless
in this matter, and, when working, set down
the felt on the step-ladder or floor, thus allow-
ing particles of sand or grit to get upon it.
3015. To Cut Down or Prepare the
Surface for Polishing. In cutting down,
it is best to use a piece of soft lump pumice
stone to take off the rough parts. The work
should then be wet with a sponge ; the felt
must first be soaked in water, then dipped
into the powdered pumice, and the work
rubbed with it, keeping it moderately wet,
and rubbing with a circular motion, not
straight up and down and across, and with a
light touch, using only just as much pressure
as will cause the pumice to bite, which will
be very clearly felt while the hand is in mo-
tion. Care and patience are required to do
this properly, for if the pressure be too great
it forces the pumice into the body of the filling
color, and scratches it instead of cutting or
grinding it fairly down. No hurry will avail
in doing this work, it must have its time ;
hurry only defeats the end in view, and
often causes much unnecessary labor. A
scratch, caused by want of care and too much
haste, will often throw the work ba«k for
days, and involve the cost and labor of refill-
ing. In practice the purpose is best answered
by using the pumice stone, the coarser kind
first, then the medium, and finishing with the
finest last. It will be found advantageous to
let a day elapse between the rubbing, for
when the surface is cut down the filling will
in all cases be softer underneath, and if it be
allowed to stand for a day, the newly exposed
surface gets harder, and of course rubs down
better. The pumice stone should be well
washed off the work occasionally, in order to
see what progress is being made, and if it re-
quire more rubbing or not. If, after the first
rubbing, the surface bo found not sufficiently
filled up, it may have one or more additional
coats of filling before much labor has been
spent upon it.
3016. To Polish the Filling. When
sufficiently rubbed down with the pumice
stone — that is to say, when it has been cut
down to a fine, level, and uniform surface,
(see No. 3015), the work should stand for a
day or two to harden. It will now depend en-
tirely upon the work, as to whether it must
be polished upon the filling, or whether it will
have to be varnished and polished. If the
filling be of the right color, and of one uni-
form tint, it is best to bo finished in this state,
because it will have a surface and texture
which cannot bo got by any other means.
Finished in this state it has all the uniformity
of surface and evidence of finish, without
that appearance of varnish which is so ob-
jectionable. After it has stood a day or two,
the work must be polished in this way :
Take a clean felt and rotten stone, either in
oil or water, and with this nib the work as
before, until the polish begins to appear; then
take a boss ( i. c. a ball of cotton wool in-
closed in fine silk), put the rotten stone upon
this and keep rubbing with the circular mo-
tion until the polish is uniform and equal all
over. The rotten stone must now bo carefully
cleaned off; if it bo in oil, clean off with f.iie
flour; if in water, with sponge and wash-
leather and water, taking care not to scratch.
A clean damp chamois or wadi-leathor will
JAPANNING.
277
now bo required, which must be held ia the
left hand, leaving the right perfectly at liberty.
Now use the ball of the right hand, press
gently upon the panel, and draw it forwards
or towards you. If this be done properly, it
will bring up a clear polish upon the work.
The hand should be kept slightly damp by
drawing it across the leather almost every
time the hand is drawn forward. If this be
done effectually, a rustling sound will bo pro-
duced while the hand is in motion ; if this be
so, the polish will be sure to follow. The
polish thus produced on the filling alone will
have a beautiful soft appearance ; but if the
work has to be finished with a brilliant lustre,
and to a high degree of polish, proceed as fol-
lows:
3017. To Finish Wood with, a Bril-
liant Polish. After being cut down with
the pumice and felt as directed ia Xo 3015,
the filling has to be coated with two or more
coats of the best polishing copal varnish, hav-
ing a quantity of the best tube flake white;
this should be mixed with the varnish in suffi-
cient quantity to form a creamy mixture,
with which the work must be coated — one,
two, or three coats, as may be desirable. This
should stand for 3 or 4 weeks, until it becomes
hard; for the harder it is the better it will pol-
ish. It must then be cut down with felt and
the finest ground pumice stone in water, and
polished with the rotten stone, as before de-
scribed. By this means a bright and brilliant
polish may be obtained, of a very enduring
nature. The same process will of course an-
swer for all varnished imitations of woods
and marbles, and all work which will admit
of the application of oil varnishes.
J a/panniHg is a kind of varnishing
or lacquering, practiced in perfection by
the Japanese, whence the name. The only
difference between varnishing and japanning
is that after the application of every coat of
color or varnish, the object so varnished is
placed in an oven or chamber called a stove,
at as high a temperature as can safely be em-
ployed without injuring the articles or causing
the varnish to blister or run.
3019. To Prepare Metal for Japan-
ning. Metal requires no other preparation
than cleaning with turpentine, to free it from
grease or oil, unless the latter should happen
to be linseed oil, in which case the cleaning is
generally dispensed with, and the articles are
placed in the stove and heated until the oil is
baked quite hard.
3020. To Prepare Wood for Japan-
ning. Wood that is intended to be used for
the best japanned work, requires to be thor-
oughly dried before it is made up, otherwise
it will be subject to all the evils of shrinking,
warping, and splitting, when exposed to the
heat of the stove. To avoid those evils, the
wood, after having been well seasoned in the
usual manner, by exposure to the air, is sawn
out nearly to the required forms, and baked
for several days in the japanner's stove, the
heat of which is gradually increased; and the
wood is afterwards worked up into chairs,
tables, trays, and similar articles, which are
afterwards again exposed to the heat of the
stove, and any cracks or other imperfections,
that may be thus rendered apparent, are care-
fully stopped with putty or white lead before
the japanning is commenced.
3021. To Prepare the Ground for
Japanning. For black japanned work, the
ground is first prepared with a coating of
black, made by mixing dross ivory black to a
proper consistence with dark colored anlmc
varnish, as this gives a blacker surface than
could be produced by japan alone. If the
surface is required to be polished, five or six
coats of japan are necessary to give sufficient
body to prevent the japan from being rubbed
through in polishing.
3022. To Make Black Japan Varnish.
Melt together 50 pounds Isfaplcs asphaltum
and 8 pounds dark gum anime, and boil for 2
hours in 12 gallons linseed oil; then melt 10
pounds dark gum amber, and boil it with 2
gallons linseed oil ; add this to the other, with
a sufficient quantity of dryers, and boil for 2
hours longer, or until a little of the mass,
when cooled, may be rolled into pills ; then
withdraw the heat, and afterwards thin down
with 30 gallons oil of turpentine. This is ex-
cellent for either wood or metals.
3023. Flexible Black Japan Varnish.
A good black japan is made ot burnt umber,
4 ounces; true asphaltum, 2 ounces: and
boiled oil, 2 quarts. • Dissolve the asphaltum
at first in a little oil, using a moderate heat ;
then add the umber, ground in oil, and lastly,
the rest of the oil, and incorporate thoroughly.
Thin with turpentine. It is a flexible japan,
and may be used on metal work which requires
to be bent somewhat.
3024. Colored Japan. For colored
works no japan is used, but they are painted
with ordinary painters' colors, ground with
Unseed oil or turpentine, and mixed with
aniine varnish ; and the work is dried in the
oven in the same manner as the black japan.
To protect the colors, and give brilliancy and
durability to the surface, the work is after-
wards varnished with copal or anime varnish,
made without dryers. 2 or 3 coats of varnish
suffice for ordinary works, and 5 or 6 for the
best works that are polished. Very pale
varnish is of course required for light colors.
Ornamental devices are painted on the ob-
jects in the "usual manner, after the general
color of the ground has been laid on. The
colors are dried in the stove, and the work is
finally varnished and polished just the same
as plain colors, but more carefully.
3025. Transparent Japan Varnish.
Oil turpentine, 8 ounces; oil lavender, 6
ounces; camphor, 1 drachm; bruised copal,
2 ounces ; dissolve. Used for tin, &c. Quick
drying copal varnish is usually substituted.
3026. To Color Japan Varnish. The
above is a transparent japan, but by the fol-
lowing modifications any or all of the various
colors may be made from it. It is indispen-
sable that the colors be ground to an im-
palpable powder before mixing with the var-
nish, and should then be thoroughly ground
with the varnish, otherwise it is preferable to
apply the color first as a paint, and varnish
afterwards with the above transparent japan.
Previous to varnishing a painted surface, it
should be cut down with pulverized pumice-
stone, &c., as directed in No. 1486.
278
INDIA JAPANNING
3027. To Color Japan Blue. Indigo
and Prussian blue, both finely pulverized, of
each % ounce ; spirits of turpentine, 1 pint.
Mix well and strain. Or use verditer glazed
•with Prussian blue or smalt; mis -with the
varnish in TSo. 3025.
3028. To Color Japan Red. Yer-
milion makes a fine scarlet, but its appearance
in japanned work is much improved by glazing
it with a thin coat of lake, or even rose pink.
Or : Take spirits of turpentine, i pint ; add
cochineal, \ ounce; let stand 15 hours, and
strain. Add to the transparent varnish (see
No. 3025) to suit the fancy.
3029. To Color Japan Yellow.
King's yellow, turpeth mineral (subsulphate
of mercury), and Dutch pink, all form very
bright yellows, and the latter is very cheap.
Seed lac varnish assimilates with yellow very
well ; and when they are required verv bright,
an improvement may be effected by infusing
turmeric in the varnish which covers the
ground. Or: Take 1 ounce of pulverized root
of curcuma and stir of it into 1 pint of the
transparent varnish (see No. 3025) until the
color pleases you ; let stand a few hours, and
strain.
3030 To Color Japan Green. Dis-
tilled verdigris laid on a ground of leaf gold
produces the brightest of all greens; other
greens may be formed by mixing King's yel-
low and bright Prussian blue, or turpeth
mineral and Prussian blue, or Dutch pink and
verdigris. Mix with varnish. (See Nos. 3025
and 1421.)
3031. To Color Japan Orange. Mix
a little red with yellow until the desired color
is obtained; and add to transparent japan.
(See No. 3025.)
3032. To Color Japan White. White
grounds are obtained with greater difficulty
than any other. One of the bfist is prepared
by grinding up flock-white, or zinc-white,
with £ of its weight of starch, and drying it ;
it is then tempered, like the other colors,
using the mastich varnish for common uses ;
and that of the best copal for the finest.
3033. To Color Japan Pink. Mix
sufficient red (see No. 2028) with transparent
varnish (see No. 3025) to give the desired tint
of pink.
3034. To Color Japan Purple. Mix
red and blue together, and add to the varnish.
(See No. 3025.)
3035. To Color Japan Violet. A
violet japan may be obtained by mixing
purple (see No. 3034), and white (see No.
3032), with transparent japan (see No. 3025.)
3036. To Color Japan Brown. For
brown japanned works, the clear japan alone
is used as the ground, or umber is mixed with
the japan to give the required tint, and the
work is afterwards dried in the oven, in the
same manner as black japan.
3037. To Japan Old Tea-Trays.
First clean them thoroughly with soap and
water and a little rotten-stone ; then dry
them by wiping and exposure at the fire.
Now get some good copal varnish, mix with
it some bronze powder, and apply with a
brush to the denuded parts, after which sei
the tea-tray in an oven, at a heat of 212° to
300°, until the varnish is dry. Two coats
will make it equal to new.
India Japanning. The great
peculiarity in the Indian method is
he embossing, or raising the figures, &c.,
above the surface or ground, and the metallic
or bronze-like hue of the several designs ; the
grotesque appearance of the several orna-
nents, whether figures, landscapes, or what-
ever other designs they are embellished with,
jeing so totally different from every principle
of perspective, and so opposite to every idea
we have of correct drawing. JSTothing but
,he study of Chinese models themselves will
enable the workmen to imitate, with any de-
gree of precision, their several characteristics.
3039. Ground for Chinese Japan.
Mix any quantity of the finest whiting to the
consistency of paint, with isinglass size ; lay
on your wood 2 or 3 coats, observing to put it
on evenly and smoothly, and not too thick ;
.et it dry ; then rub it gently with a soft rag
and water till the surface is quite level and
polished; if a small portion of honey is added
;o the mixture, it will render it less liable to
crack or peel off. If the ground is to be
jlack, which is most usual, give it a coat or
;wo of the black japan mentioned in the com-
mon method of japanning (see No. 3022), and
it is prepared for the figures, (fee.
3040. Plaster Ground for Chinese
Japan. Mix fine plaster of Paris with sizo
not too thick, and apply it quickly, for it soon
srets hard. Two coats, in most instances, will
Be sufficient. After it is quite dry, polish it
with fine glass paper, and rub it with a wet
soft cloth ; then give it 2 or 3 coats of drying
linseed oil, or as much as it will soak up.
"When dry, it is ready for japanning.
3041. To Trace Designs on -tho
Ground. Having drawn the figures on a
piece of white paper either with ink or pencil,
rub the back of it with fine chalk or whiting,
and shake all the loose powder off; lay it on
the ground, and trace or go over every part
of the outline with the end of a blunt bodkin,
or other similar instrument; you will then
have a sketch in faint outline on your ground.
Then proceed to put in the figures, &c., with
any desired color, or bronze them.
3042. To Raise Figures on the
Work. Prepare a mixture of whiting and
size (some prefer the whites of eggs), of a
consistency to flow freely from the pencil,
the hairs of which must be rather long. Be-
gin with a figure, or other part — but do not
do too much at a time — and trace the outline
correctly, with a free hand ; then take a piece
of stick pointed at the cud, dip it into the
composition, and fill up the inside of the out-
line. Continue to put more of tho mixture
on till it is raised sufficiently above the sur-
face. Let it got quite dry, and then polish it
with a small cauiel's-hair pencil and clean
water, so as to make it perfectly smooth and
level. Care must bo taken in this process,
that the composition is not too thin, or it will
spread beyond tho bounds of the outline, but
just so thick as to drop from the stick. Some
mix with tho whiting a portion of flake- white,
or dry white-lead. This is an improvement,
and for very particular work should be
adopted.
3043. To Japan Wprk-Boxes and
Fancy Articles. There is a very pretty
method of ornamenting boxes, cabinets, &c.,
LA CQUEBS.
279
so that the figures appear of the color of the j to keep a concentrated solution of each color-
wood, and the ground black or colored ; this, ing ingredient ready, so that it may at any
by many, is produced by first tracing out the j time be added to produce any desired tint,
pattern, and then pricking in those parts i Lacquer should always stand till it is quite
which shall appear as the ground, cither ^~~ •— *— *Al
black or any color at fancy. This is a very
tedious process, and even when finished with
the greatest care, will not appear regular or
well defined in the pattern. The following
method will be found very expeditious, and
at the same time very correct ; it is but little
known, and, as such, will to the practical
japanner be the more acceptable. It may
also be applied to many other purposes than
here alluded to. The following preparation
is necessary, and may be termed the stopping
out mixture ; it is made by dissolving the
best white bees' wax in spirits of turpentine
till it is of the consistency of varnish. Keep
this mixture in a bottle, and, when wanted
for use, mix sufficient for your present pur-
pose with white lead in powder, or flake
white, to give it a body — but not too thick,
only so that it will flow freely from the brush.
Having traced the design, go over those
parts which are to remain of the color of the
wood, and let it dry; then mix ivory-black
(or other color as may be required), in very
fine powder, with parchment or isinglass size,
and go evenly and smoothly over every part
of the work. It will now appear wholly
black, or of whatever color that was mixed
with the size. Let the whole get thoroughly
dry ; then, with a stiff brush dipped in plain
spirits of turpentine, rub the whole of the strong to take off the dirt ; wash it afterwards
work well, and those parts that have been
gone over with the stopping-out mixture,
will come off, leaving tha black or other color
perfect. It will then appear as if the work
had been pricked in, but much sharper, and
will, if carefully done, have a beautiful effect.
You have now nothing more to do than var-
nish the work, as usual, and polish it as
directed in K"os. 2979, &c. To finish the work
in the manner of Indian japan, give it 8 or
10 coats of varnish, so that it will bear pol-
ishing.
3044.
Sealing- Wax Varnish. For
fancy work, this has of late years been much
used, and, if well applied and the wax good,
will be a very good imitation of India japan.
The method of making the varnish or japan
is very easy, being simply reducing the wax
to a coarse powder, and pouring the best
spirits of wine on it in a bottle, and letting it
gradually dissolve without heat, shaking the
bottle occasionally till it is all dissolved. A
2 ounce stick of the best wax will be enough
for i pint of spirits. Much depends on the
goodness of the sealing-wax, and the color of
the varnish may be varied by using different-
ly colored wax. The finest vermilion seal-
ing-wax makes the best varnish, the other
colors not flowing quite as well ; white seal-
ing-wax is very apt to clot when drying. As
this varnish dries very quickly, it should not
be made until it is wanted for use.
£LCCJ/U6rS. Lacquers are used upon
polished metals and wood to impart the
appearance of gold. As they are wanted of
different depths and shades of color, it is. best
fine, before it is used.
3046. To Lacquer Brass Work. If
the work is old, clean it first, according to the
directions hereafter given ; but if new, it will
merely require to be freed from dust, and
rubbed with a piece of wash-leather, to make
it as bright as possible. Put the work on a
hot iron plate (or upon the top of the stove),
till it is moderately heated, but not too hot,
or it will blister the lacquer; then, according
to the color desired, take of the following
preparations, and, making it warm, lay hold
of the work with a pair of pincers or "pliers,
and with a soft brush apply the lacquer, being
careful not to rub it on, but stroke the brush
gently one way, and place the work on the
hot plate again till the varnish is hard ; but
do not let it remain too long. Experience
will best tell you when it should be removed.
Some, indeed, do not place it on the stove or
plate a second time. If it should not be quite
covered, you may repeat it carefully ; and, if
pains be taken with the lacquer, it will look
equal to metal gilt.
3047. To Clean Old Brass Work for
Lacquering
ashes, whicl
Make a strong lye of wood-
may be strengthened by soap-
lees; put in the brass- work, and the lacquer
will soon come off; then have ready a mix-
ture of aquafortis and water, sufficiently
in clean water, and lacquer it with such of
the following compositions as may be most
suitable to the work.
3048. To Make Gold Lacquer for
Brass. Rectified spirits of wine, -j- pint;
mix •& pound of seed-lac, picked clean, and
clear of all pieces (as upon that depends the
beauty of the lacquer) with the spirits of
wine ; keep them in a warm place, and shake
them repeatedly. When the seed-lac is quite
dissolved, it is fit for use.
3049. Gold Lacquer. Put into a clean
four gallon tin, 1 pound ground turmeric, 1$
ounces powdered gamboge, 3£ ounces pow-
dered gum-sandarach, i pound shellac, and 2
gallons spirits of wine. ' After being agitated,
dissolved, and strained, add 1 pint of turpen-
tine varnish, well mixed.
3050. Gold Colored Lacquer for
Watch Keys, Etc. Seed-lac, 6 ounces;
amber, 2 ounces ; gamboge, 2 ounces ; extract
of red sandal wood in water, 24 grains ; dra-
gon's blood, GO grains; oriental saffron, 36
grains; pounded glass, 4 ounces; pure alco-
hol, 36 ounces. The seed-lac, amber, gam-
boge, and dragon's blood must be pounded
very fine on porphyry or clean marble, and
mixed with the pounded glass. Over this
mixture is poured the tincture formed by in-
fusing the saffron and the extract of sandal
wood in the alcohol for 24 hours. Metal ar-
ticles that are to be covered with this varnish
are heated, and, if they are of a kind to admit
of it, are immersed in packets. The tint of
the varnish may bo varied in any degree re-
quired, by altering the proportions of the col-
oring quantities according to circumstances.
3051. Deep Gold Lacquer. Seed-lac, 3
ounces ; turmeric, 1 ounce ; dragon's blood, J
280
LA CQUERS.
ounce; alcohol, 1 pint. Digest for a week,
frequently shaking, decant and filter. Deep
gold colored.
3052. Dark Gold Colored Lacquer.
Strongest alcohol, 4 ounces ; Spanish annotto,
8 grains ; powdered turmeric, 2 drachms ; red
saunders, 12 grains. Infuse and add shellac,
etc., as to the pale tin lacquer (see No. 3058),
and when dissolved add 30 drops of spirits of
turpentine.
3053. Gold Lacquer. Ground turmeric,
1 pound ; gamboge, 1£ ounces ; gum sand-
arach, 3& pounds ; shellac £ pound ; all in pow-
der; rectified spirit of wine, 2 gallons. Dis-
solve, strain, and add turpentine varnish, 1
pint.
3054. Brass Lacquer. Take 8 ounces
shellac, 2 ounces sandarach, 2 ounces annotto,
i ounce dragon's blood resin, 1 gallon of
spirits of wine. The article to be lacquered
should be heated slightly, and the lacquer
applied by means of a soft camel's-hair brush.
3055. Pale Brass Lacquer. Take 2
gallons spirits of wine, 3 ounces cape aloes
cut small, 1 pound fine pale shellac, 1 ounce
gamboge cut small. Digest for a week,
shake frequently, decant and filter.
3056. Lacquer for Bronzed Dipped
Work. A lacquer for bronzed dipped work
may be made thus : Alcohol, 12 gallons ; seed-
lac, 9 pounds ; turmeric, 1 pound to the gal-
lon ; Spanish saffron, 4 ounces. The saffron
may be omitted if the lacquer is to be very
light.
3057. Lacquer for Tin Plate. Best
alcohol, 8 ounces ; turmeric, 4 drachms ; hay
saffron, 2 scruples; dragon's blood, 4 scru-
ples; red saunders, 1 scruple; shellac, 1
ounce; gum sandarach, 2 drachms; gum
mastich, 2 drachms; Canada balsam, 2
drachms ; when dissolved, add spirits of tur-
pentine, 80 drops.
3058. Pale Tin Lacquer. Strongest
alcohol, 4 ounces; powdered turmeric, 2
drachms; hay saffron, 1 scruple; dragon's
blood in powder, 2 scruples; red sanders, i
scruple. Infuse this mixture in the cold for
48 hours, pour off the clear, and strain the
rest; then add powdered shellac, ^ ounce;
sandarach, 1 drachm; mastich, 1 drachm;
Canada balsam, 1 drachm. Dissolve this in
the cold by frequent agitation, laying the
bottle on its side, to present a greater surface
to the alcohol. When dissolved, add 40 drops
of spirits of turpentine.
3059. Iron Lacquer. Take 12 parts
amber, 12 parts turpentine, 2 parts resin, 2
parts asphaltum, 6 parts drying oil. Or, 3
pounds asphaltum, h pound shellac, 1 gallon
turpentine.
3060. Bed Lacquer. Take 2 gallons
spirits of wine, 1 pound dragon's blood, 3
pounds Spanish annotto, 44 pounds gum san-
darach, 2 pints turpentine. Made as pale brass
lacquer.
3061. Red Lacquer. Spanish annotto,
3 pounds; dragon's blood, 1 pound; gum
sandarach, 3£ pounds; rectified spirit, 2 gal-
lons; turpentine varnish, 1 quart. Dissolve and
mix as the last.
3062. Lacquer for Philosophical In-
struments. Gamboge, li ounces; gum san-
darach, 4 ounces; gum elemi, 4 ounces; best
dragon's blood, 2 ounces; terra merita, 1£
ounces; oriental saffron, -1 grains; seed-lac,
2 ounces ; pounded glass, G ounces ; pure al-
cohol, forty ounces. The dragon's blood, gurn
elemi, seed-lac, and gamboge, are all pounded
and mixed with the glass. Over them is
poured tho tincture obtained by infusing the
saffron and terra merita in tho alcohol for 24
hours. This tincture, before being poured
over tho dragon's blood, etc., should bo strain-
ed through a piece of clean linen cloth, and
strongly squeezed. If tho dragon's blood
gives too high a color, the quantity may be
lessened according to circumstances. *Tho
same is tho case with tho other coloring mat-
ters. In choosing the terra merita, select
that which is sound and compact. This lac-
quer has a very good effect when applied to
many cast or moulded articles used iu orna-
menting furniture, tho irregularity of surface
of which would render it difficult, if not im-
possible, to polish in tho ordinary manner.
3063. To Make Lacquer' of Various
Tints. Put 4 ounces best gum gamboge
into 32 ounces spirits oi turpentine ; 4 ounces
dragon's blood into the same quantity of
spirits of turpentine as the gamboge, and 1
ounce annotto into 8 ounces of the same
spirits. Tho 3 mixtures should be made in
different vessels. They should then be kept
for about two weeks in a warm place, and as
much exposed to tho sun as possible. At the
end of that time they will be fit for use ; and
any desired tints may be obtained by making
a composition from them, with such propor-
tions of each liquor as tho nature of the color
desired will point out.
3064. Durable and Lustrous Black
Coating' for Metals. The bottom of a
cylindrical iron pot, which should be about
18 inches in height, is covered half an inch
with powdered bituminous coal; a grate is
then put in and tho pot filled with the articles
to be varnished. Articles of cast iron, iron
wire, brass, zinc, steel, tinned iron, &c., may
be subjected to the same treatment. The
cover is then put on and the pot heated over
a coke fire under a well-drawing chimney.
In the beginning the moisture only evaporates,
but soon the coking commences, and deep
brown vapors escape, which irritate the throat.
"When the bottom of the pot has been heated
for 15 minutes to a dull red heat, the coal has
been mostly converted into coke ; the pot ia
then removed from tho fire, and after standing
10 minutes opened for evaporation, all the
articles will be found covered with tho above
described coating. This lacquer is not cnly
a protection against oxidation of metals, but
will stand also a considerable heat, only dis-
appearing at beginning redness, and therefore
its useful application for ovens and furnaces.
The coating produced is thin, lustrous, and
cannot easily be scratched. Fine iron ware
articles, such as sieves, are in this manner
coated with remarkable evenness, which can-
not be accomplished in any other way. Ar-
ticles made of tin, or soldered, cannot bo sub-
jected to this process, as they would fuse.
Smaller articles, like hooks and eyes, receive
this coating by heating them together with
small pieces of bituminous coal in a cylindrical
sheet iron drum like that used for roasting
coffee, until they present tho desired lustrous
black appearance.
PRESERVATION OF LEATHER.
281
Preservation of Leather.
The extreme heat to which most men
and women expose boots and shoes during
winter deprives leather of its vitality, render-
ing it liable to break and crack. Patent
leather particularly is often destroyed in this
manner. "When leather becomes so warm
as to give off the smell of leather, it is
singed. Next to the singeing caused by fire
heat, is the heat and dampness caused by the
covering of rubber. Close rubber shoes de-
stroy the strength of leather. The practice
of washing harness in warm water and with
soap is very damaging. If a coat of oil is put
011 immediately after washhig, the damage is
repaired. No harness is ever so soiled that a
damp sponge will not remove the dirt ; but,
even whemthe sponge is applied, it is always
useful to add a slight coat of oil by the use of
another sponge. All varnishes, and all black-
ing containing the properties of varnish should
be avoided. Ignorant and indolent hostlers
are apt to use such substances on their har-
ness as will give the most immediate effect,
and these, as a general thing, are most de-
structive to the leather.
3066. To Restore the Lustre of
Leather. When harness loses its lustre and
turns brown, which almost any leather will
do after long exposure to the air, the harness
should be given a new coat of grain black.
Before using this grain black, the grain sur-
face should be well washed with potash wa-
ter until all the grease is killed, and after the
application of the grain black, oil and tallow
should be applied to the surface. This will
not only fasten the color, but make the
leather flexible. Harness which is grained
can be cleaned with kerosene or spirits of tur-
pentine.
3067. To Restore Softness to Leather.
To restore the softness and pliancy of leather
which has become hard by having been wet,
apply neat's foot oil and rub it in. Castor oil
is a good substitute for neat's foot oil for soft-
ening leather belts, boots and harness. But
the best oil for harness, is 1 quart neat's foot
oli, 4 ounces beefs tallow, and 3 table-spoon-
fuls lampblack ; add 4 ounces bees' wax for
use in summer weather.
3088. To Restore the Lustre of Mo-
rocco. The lustre of Morocco is restored by
a varnishing with the white of an egg. Apply
with a sponge.
3069. To Make Boots Waterproof.
Beef tallow, 4 ouuces; resin, 1 ounce; bees'
wax, 1 ounce; melt together. Add, when
cold, a quantity of neat's foot oil equal to the
mass. Apply with a rag, warming the boots
before a fire, to the soles as well as tippers,
and rub in well with the hand. Two applica-
tions will make the boots thoroughly water-
proof and still keep them soft. We, however,
do not approve of such preparations, as the
feet generally perspire more than any other
portions of the body, and any waterproof
preparations applied to boots prevent the
perspiration from escaping, and keep the feet
wet and cold. The New England fishermen
preserve their boots waterproof by this meth-
od, which, it is said, has been in use among
them above 100 vears.
3070. To Make Boots Water-Tight.
In a pint of best winter-strained lard oil, dis-
solve a piece of paraffiiie the size of a hickory
nut, aiding the solution with a gentle heat,
say 130° or 140° Fahr. The readiest way to
get pure paraffine is to take a piece of paraffine
candle. Rub this solution on your boots
about once a mouth ; they can be blacked in
the meantime. If the oil should make the
leather too stiff, decrease the proportion of
paraffine, and vice versa. "A gentleman who
has tried this says : — I have used this for 8
years past, and boots have lasted me two
winters, the uppers always remaining soft,
and never cracking. I have tried bees' wax,
resin, tar, etc., but never found any other pre-
paration half so good.
3071. Sportsmen's Waterproof Com-
position for Boots. Dissolve by heat 1
ounce pure bottle India-rubber shavings in 1
quart neat's foot oil, and add 2 ounces tallow.
This makes a fine waterproof composition
for boots, and is recommended to sportsmen.
3072. Polish for Patent Leather
Goods. Take 5 pound molasses or sugar, 1
ounce gum-arabic, and 2 pounds ivory black ;
boil them well together, then let the vessel
stand until quite cooled, and the contents are
settled; after which, bottle off'. This is an
excellent reviver, and may be used as a black-
ing in the ordinary way, no brushes for polish-
ing being required.
3073. Glycerine Composition for
Leather. As is well known, glycerine has
found extensive application in tanning, as it
has been discovered that it adds materially to
the elasticity and strength of the leather.
Especially has it been found of great value in
protecting leather bands of machinery from
cracking and drying. The partially tanned
leather is immersed for considerable time in
a bath of glycerine, by which the pores are
filled and such an elasticity and softness is
imparted that objects manufactured from it
are much less liable to break. In order to
prepare a neutral gutta-percha composition
with glycerine, take 3 to 4 pounds lampblack,
\ pound burnt bones (burnt ivory), cover up
in a suitable vessel with 5 pounds glycerine
and 5 pounds common syrup, and stir well
until the whole is intimately mixed and free
from lumps. 4 or 5 ounces of gutta-percha,
finely cut, are to be put into a kettle, and
after melting must be mixed with 20 ounces
of sweet oil and dissolved, and 2 ounces of
stearine added. "WhiJe still warm the gutta-
percha solution must be incorporated with
the syrup and lampblack, and after this is
done, 10 ounces of Senegal gum dissolved in
li pounds of water is also added. In order
to impart an agreeable odor to the mass a
small quantity of rosemary or lavender oil
may be introduced. In using, the glycerine
gutta-percha paste must be diluted with 3 or
4 parts of water. It gives a fine lustre, and,
as it contains no acid, it does not injure the
leather, but makes it soft and elastic and adds
very much to its durability.
3074. To Preserve 'and Clean Har-
ness. In the first place, subject the harness
to 1 or 2 coats (as the leather may need) of
lampblack and castor oil, warmed sufficient-
ly to make it penetrate the leather readily.
Then make about 2 quarts of warm soap-suds,
and with a spouge wash the harness. "When
dry, rub it over with a mixture of oil and tal-
BOOT AND SHOE BLACKING.
low, equal parts, with sufficient lampblack to
give it color ; or, what is better, Prussian blue,
which gives it a new and fresh look. This
compound should be applied sparingly and
well rubbed in, which can be quickly done
and will leave a smooth and clean surface.
3075. Harness Polish. Take 2 ounces
mutton suet, 6 ounces bees' wax, 6 ounces
powdered sugar candy, 2 ounces soft soap, and
1 ounce indigo or lampblack. Dissolve the
soap in J pint of water ; then add the other
ingredients; melt and mix together; add a
gill of turpentine. Lay it on the harness
with a sponge, and polish off with a brush.
3076. To Clean Leather. Uncolored
leather may be cleaned by applying a solution
of oxalic acid with a sponge. Dissolve in
warm water.
3077. To Take Oil Out of Leather.
Use strong (F. F. F. F.) aqua ammonia,
which will take oil out without injury to the
leather. It must be used 2 or 3 times in
order to get it all out. First use it and let the
leather stand until more comes out, and ap-
ply again. This is the only thing that will
take it out and not hurt the leather.
3078. Dubbing for Leather. Mix 2
pounds black resin, 1 pound tallow with 1
gallon train oil.
3079. Jet ^or Harness and Boots.
Dissolve 3 sticks of the best black sealing-
wax in ^ pint spirits of wine ; keep in a
glass bottle, and shake well previous to use.
Applied with a soft sponge. This gives the
leather a fine black surface, which, however,
is apt to crack more or less.
3080. Shoemakers' Black. A solu-
tion of green copperas (sulphate of iron) in
about 12 times its weight in water. It is
used to black leather which has been tanned
with bark or other astringent matter, and to
the edges of the soles etc., with a feather or
brush.
3081. Harness Liquid Blacking.
Dissolve by heat, 4 ounces glue or gelatine
and 3 ounces gum arabic in f pint water ; add
7 ounces molasses and 5 ounces ivory black in
very fine powder ; gently evaporate until of a
proper consistence when cold, stirring all the
time. Keep in corked bottles.
3082. Harness Waterproof Paste
Blacking. Melt together 2 ounces mutton
suet and 6 ounces bees' wax; add 6 ounces
sugar candy, 2 ounces soft soap, 24 ounces
lampblack, and i ounce indigo in fine pow-
der; when thoroughly mixed add i pint of
oil of turpentine ; put into pots or tins.
3083. Harness Waterproof Cake
Blacking. Melt 1 pound bees' wax, 1 ounce
Prussian blue ground in 2 ounces linseed oil,
i pound ivory black, 3 ounces oil of turpen-
tine and 1 ounce copal varnish ; mix well to-
gether and form into cakes whilst warm.
3084. Harness Waterproof Blacking.
Mix the same ingredients as in the last re-
ceipt, and while hot add 4 ounces soft soap
and 6 ounces more oil of turpentine ; put the
paste into pots or tins. None of the above
blackings will injure the leather.
3085. To Apply Harness Blacking.
Spread a very little of the blacking evenly on
the surface of the leather, and polish by gen-
tle friction with a brush or an old handker-
chief. Paste blacking is thinned with water.
Boot and Shoe Blacking.
The manipulations required for paste
and liquid blacking are the same, the differ-
ence in the two being the quantity of liquid
added. Thus, by diluting paste blacking
with water or beer bottoms, it may be con-
verted into liquid blacking of a similar quality,
and, by using less fluid matter, the ingredients
of liquid blacking will produce paste blacking.
One thing must, however, be observed, and
that is, that the ivory-black used for liquid
blacking must be reduced to a much finer
powder than for paste blacking, as, if this be
not attended too,.it will settle to the bottom,
and be with difficulty diffused again through
the liquid. For those persons who do not
like the use of blacking containing oil of
vitriol, the first of the forms gi^fen below,
either for paste or liquid, may be adopted.
The vitriol, however, greatly contributes to
promote the shining properties of the black-
ing, and in small quantities is not so injurious
to the leather as has been falsely represented,
as it wholly unites itself to the lime of the
phosphate contained in the ivory-black, and
is thus partly neutralized. This is the reason
why lampblack should never be employed
for blacking, as it has no earthy base to ab-
sorb or neutralize the acid, which would then
prove very hurtful to the leather. Oil of
vitriol is now employed in the manufacture of
all the most celebrated shining blackings.
The addition of white of eggs, isinglass, gum-
arabic, and similar articles to blacking, always
proves injurious, as they tend to stiffen the
leather and to make it crack.
3087. Liquid Blacking. Ivory-black,
in fine powder, 1 pound ; molasses, f po'und ;
sweet oil, 2 ounces ; beer and vinegar, of each
1 pint. Kub together the first three until the
oil be perfectly killed, then add the beer and
vinegar.
3088. Fine Liquid Blacking. Ivory-
black and molasses, of each 1 pound ; sweet
oil and oil of vitriol, of each £ pound. Mix
the first three as before, then gradually add
the vitriol, diluted with thrice its weight of
water; mix well, and let it stand for 3 hours,
when it may be reduced to a proper consist-
ence with water or sour beer.
3089. Liquid Jet Blacking. Ivory-
black and molasses, of each J pound ; oil of
vitriol, 1 ounce ; sweet oil, 2 ounces ; sour
beer, 1 pint ; finish as last receipt.
3090. Good Liquid Blacking. Ivory-
black, 7 pounds ; molasses, 6 pounds ; sweet
oil, 1 pound ; oil of vitriol, £ pound ; sufficient
water; finish as in Isro. 3088.
3091. Liquid Blacking. Ivory-black,
3 cwt. ; crude molasses, 2 cwt. ; linseed oil,
3 gallons ; oil of vitriol, 20 pounds ; sufficient
water to finish as in No. 3088.
3092. Bryant and James' Patent
Liquid Blacking. 18 ounces caoutchouc-
are to be dissolved in about 9 pounds hot
rape oil. To this solution 60 pounds of fine
ivory-black and 45 pounds molasses are to be
added, along with 1 pound finely -ground
gum-arabic, previously dissolved in 20 gallons
vinegar. These mixed ingredients are to be
finely triturated in a paint-mill till the mix-
j ture becomes perfectly smooth. To this
varnish 12 pounds sulphuric acid are to be
' now added in small successive quantities,
METHOD OF MARBLING BOOKS.
283
with powerful stirring for half an hour ; a
the end of which time 3 pounds of finely
ground gum-arabic are added ; after whici
the stirring is repeated half an hour ever
day for 14 days longer, when the liquid black
ing is ready for use.
3093. Paste Blacking1. Molasses,
pound ; ivory-black, 1£ pounds ; sweet oil, $
ounces ; rub together as before (see No. 3088)
then add a little lemon juice or strong vine
gar.
3094. Brilliant Paste Blacking
Ivory-black, 2 pounds; molasses, 1 pound
olive oil and oil of vitriol, of each J pound
sufficient water, as before.
3095. Fine Paste Blacking. Ivory
black, 28 pounds; molasses, 21 pounds
common oil, 1 quart; oil of vitriol, 3 pounds
sufficient water, as before.
3096. Fine Oil Paste Blacking
Ivory-black, 3 cwt. ; common molasses, 2
cwt. ; linseed oil and vinegar bottoms, o
each 3 gallons ; oil of vitriol, 28 pounds
sufficient water, mix as before.
3097. Oil Paste Blacking. Ivory
black, 2 pounds ; molasses, 4 or 5 ounces
oil of vitriol, 2 ounces ; tanners' oil, 5 ounces
(if this cannot be obtained, then use 4 ounces
best tallow) ; gum-arabic, 1 ounce. Mix the
011 and vitriol together, and let it stand 24
hours ; dissolve the gum in a cupful of warm
water; then add 3 table-spoonfuls of best
vinegar; heat it and mix with the oil, &c.,
and then add the ivory-black, molasses, and
white of 2 eggs.
3098. Real Japan Paste Blacking.
Take 3 ounces ivory-black, 2 ounces coarse
sugar, 1 ounce sulphuric acid, 1 ounce muri-
atic acid, 1 lemon, 1 table-spoonful sweet oil,
and 1 pint vinegar. First mix the ivory-
black and sweet oil together, then the lemon
and sugar, with a little vinegar to qualify the
blacking ; then add the sulphuric and muri-
atic acids, and mix them all well together.
The sugar, oil, and vinegar, prevent the acids
from injuring the leather, and add to the
lustre of the blacking.
3099. Bryant and James' Patent Paste
Blacking. In making the paste blacking,
the patentees prescribe the same quantity of
India-rubber oil, ivory-black, molasses, and
gum-arabic as in their liquid blacking, the
latter being dissolved in only 12 pounds vine-
gar. These ingredients are to be well mixed,
and then ground together in a mill till they
form a perfectly smooth paste. To this paste
12 pounds sulphuric acid are to be added in
small quantities at a time, with powerful
stirring, which is to be continued k hour after
the last portion of the acid has been intro-
duced. Ready for use in 7 days.
3100. New Blacking. The lustrous
qualities of blacking are frequently derived
from ingredients which are most deleterious
and destructive to leather. Herr Artus
publishes a new formula, and claims several
advantages for it, to which we may add its
cheapness and accessibility. 3 or 4 pounds
vegetable black, 1£ pounds ivory-black, 5
pounds molasses, and 5 pounds glycerine,
mixed thoroughly together. 6 ounces gutta-
percha, cut in small pieces, are then melted,
and when fluid, 20 ounces olive oil are added,
and subsequently, 2 ounces stearine. The
second mixture, while quite hot, is stirred in-
to the first ; and then a further addition of
10 ounces gum Senegal, dissolved' in about 3
quarts water, is added. This compound is
the stock ; for use, it should be diluted with
about 3 times its quantity of warm water.
3101. Day and Martin's Blacking.
According to Mr. W". C. pay, the method of
making the famous " Day and Martin's Black-
ing "is as follows: Bone-black in a state of
powder, is mixed with sperm oil until the
two are thoroughly incorporated. Sugar or
molasses is then mixed with a small portion
of vinegar and added to the mass. Oil of
vitriol is next addled, and when all efferves-
cence has ceased, more vinegar is poured in
until the mixture is of a proper consistency.
This constitutes the liquid blacking of the
above-named manufacturers.
Method of Marbling
Books. This is performed by
laying the color on the edges with a brush,
or by means of a wooden trough and gum-
water as follows : — Provide a wooden trough,
2 inches deep, 6 inches wide, and the length
of a super-royal sheet ; boil in a brass or cop-
per pan any quantity of linseed and water
until a thick mucilage is formed; strain it
into the trough, and "let it cool ; then grind
on a marble slab any of the following colors
in small beer. For —
Blue, Prussian blue or indigo.
Bed, rose-pink, vermilion, or drop lake.
Yellow, King's yellow, yellow ochre, <fcc.
White, flake white.
Black, ivory or burnt lampblack.
Brown, umber, burnt umber, Vandyke
brown, sienna, burnt sienna; black mixed
with yellow and red, also makes brown.
Green, blue and yellow mixed.
Orange, red and yellow mixed.
Purple, red and blue mixed.
For each color you must have two cups,
one for the color after grinding, the other to
mix it with ox-gall, which must be used to
thin the colors at discretion. If top much
iall is used, the color will spread; when
ihey keep their place on the surface of the
;rough, when moved with a quill, they are fit
'or use. All things being in readiness, the
colors are successively sprinkled on the sur-
?ace of the mucilage in the trough with a
jrush, and are waved or drawn about with a
quill or stick, according to taste. "When the
design is thus formed, the book, tied tightly
Between cutting-boards of the same size., is
ightly pressed with its edge on the surface of
;he liquid pattern, and then withdrawn and
dried; the covers may be marbled in the
same way, only letting the liquid colors run
over them. The film of color in the trough
may be as thin as possible, and if any remains
after the marbling, it may be taken off by ap-
plying paper to it before you prepare for
marbling again.
3103. Blue Sprinkle for Bookbinders.
Strong sulphuric acid, 8 ounces ; Spanish in-
igo, powdered, 2 . ounces. Mix in a bottle
hat will hold a quart, and place it in a water-
)ath to promote solution. For use, dilute a
ittle to the required color in a teacup.
284:
METHOD OF MARBLING BOOKS.
3104. Blue Marble for Books, &c.
Color the edges with King's yellow, and when
dry tie the book between boards. Throw on
blue spots in the gum trough, wave them
with the iron pin, and a^ply the edges
thereon.
3105. Brown Color for Marbling or
Sprinkling Books. Logwood chips, 1 part ;
annotto, 1 part; boil in water, 6 parts. If too
light, add a piece of copperas about the size
of a pea. Or : Umber, any quantity. Grind
it on a slab with ox-gall and a little lamp-
black. Dilute with ale.
3106. Gold Sprinkle for Books. Put
into a marble mortar i ounce pure honey and
1 book of gold leaf; rub them well together
until they are very fine, add | pint of clear
water, and mix them well together. "When
the water clears, pour it off, and put in more,
till the honey is all extracted, and nothing re-
mains but the gold. Mix 1 grain corrosive
sublimate in a tea-spoonful spirits of wine,
and when dissolved, put the same, together
with a little gum water, to the gold, and bot-
tle it close for use. The edges of the book
may be sprinkled or colored very dark, with
green, blue, or purple, and lastly with the
gold liquid, in small or large spots, very regu-
lar, shaking the bottle before using. Burnish
the edges when dry, and cover them with
paper to prevent the dust falling thereon.
This sprinkle will have a most beautiful ap-
pearance on extra work ; ladies may use it
for ornamenting their fancy work, by putting
it on with a pen or camel's hair brush, and
when dry burnishing it with a dog's tooth.
3107. Marble for Leather Book-
Covers. "Wash the cover and glair it, take a
sponge charged with water, having the book
between wands, and drop the water from the
sponge on the different parts of the cover;
sprinkle very fine with vinegar black, then
with brown, and lastly with vitriol water.
Observe to sprinkle on the colors immediately
after each other, and to wash the cover over
with a clean sponge and water.
3108. Chinese Edge for Books.
Color the edge with light liquid blue and dry ;
then take a sponge charged with vermilion,
and dab on spots according to fancy; next
throw on rice, and finish the edge with dark
liquid blue. Color light blue on different
parts of the edge with a sponge : do the same
where there are vacancies with yellow and
Brazil red ; dry and dab on a little vermilion
in spots; then throw on rice, and finish with
a bold sprinkle of dark blue. Burnish.
3109. Wax Marble for Leather
Book-Covers, &c. This marbling must be
done on the fore edge, before the back of the
book is rounded, or becomes round, when in
boards, and finished on the head and foot.
Take bees' wax and dissolve it over the fire in
an earthen vessel; take quills stripped of
their feathers, and tie them together ; dip the
quill-tops in the wax, and spot the edge, with
large and small spots ; take a sponge charged
with blue, green, or red, and smear over the
edge : when done, dash off the wax, and it
will be marbled. This will be useful for
stationery work, or for folios and quartos.
3110. Yellow Egyptian Marble for
Leather Book-Covers. Boil quercitron
bark with water and a little powdered alum,
over a slow fire, until it is a good strong yel-
low. Pour the liquid into a broad vessel,
sufficiently large to contain the cover when
extended. Before the liquid is cool, take the
dry cover, and lay the grain side flat on the
color ; press it lightly that the whole may re-
ceive the liquid ; let it soak some time, and
then take it from the vessel. The book must
be covered in the usual manner, and permitted
to dry from the fire. Glair the book ; when
dry, place it between the wands; take a
sponge and water, and press large spots there-
on; dip a quill-top into the vinegar black,
with it touch the water on the cover in differ-
ent parts, which will have a fine effect when
managed with care. Let it stand a few min-
utes, then take off the water with a clean
sponge.
3111. Green Egyptian Marble for
Leather Book-Covers. Color the teover
in a large vessel, as mentioned before, with
Scott's liquid blue ; when done, put it into a
vessel of clear water for an hour. Take it out
and press out the water, then cover the book.
Glair the cover; when dry, place it between
wands, and drop weak potash water from a
sponge thereon; dip the quill-top into the
strong black, and touch the water with it.
This must be repeated till you have a good
black. "When-dry, clear it with a sponge and
water.
3112. B-ed Egyptian Marble for
Leather Book-Covers. Boil Brazil dust in
rain-water on a slow fire, with a little pow-
dered alum and a few drops of solution of
tin, till a good color is produced. Dip a piece
of calf leather into the liquid, and you may
ascertain the color wanted. If too ligh,t, let
it boil till it is reduced to one half of the quan-
tity ; take it from the fire, add a few more
drops of the solution of tin, and pour it into a
large vessel. Put the dry cover on the liquid,
and let it remain for a quarter of an hour,
then press out the water. Color it over with
a sponge and the quercitron bark water, and
cover the book. Glair the cover, place it be-
tween wands, dash on water with a brush,
also potash water ; and, lastly, finish it with
the strong vinegar black, with the quill-top.
Observe that too much black is not put on ;
the intention of the marble is to show the red
as transparently as possible.
3113. Green Marble for Leather
Book-Covers. The edge must be marbled
with a good bright gree'n only. "When the
color is prepared with the ox-gall, and ready
for use, a few drops of sweet oil must be
mixed therein, the color thrown on with a
brush, in large spots, till the gum is perfectly
covered. The oil will make a light edge
round each spot, and have a good effect.
Blue, green, and brown maybe also used sep-
arately in like manner. Sheets of paper may
be done, having a trough large enough, and
the sheets damped as for printing, before
marbling. Spirits of turpentine may be
sprinkled on the colors, which will make
white spots.
3114. Binders' Thread Marble. Yel-
low the edge ; when dry, cut pieces of thick
thread over the edge, which will fall on differ-
ent parts irregularly ; give it a fine dark sprin-
kle, and shake off' the thread. This produces
a nea-t marbled appearance.
PHOTOGRAPHY.
285
3115. Rice Marble, for Leather
Book-Covers. Color the cover with spirits
of wine and turmeric, then place on rice iu a
regular manner ; throw on a very fine sprinkle
of copperas water till the cover is nearly
black, and let it remain till dry. The cover
may be spotted with the red liquid or potash
water, very freely, before tho rice is thrown
off the boards.
3116. Orange Color for Marbling or
Sprinkling Books. Ground Brazil wood, 1G
parts; annotto, 4 parts; alum, sugar, and
gum-arabic, each 1 part ; water, 70 parts. Boil,
strain, and bottle.
3117. Tree Marble, for Leather
Book-Covers. A marble iu the form of
trees may bo done by bending the boards a
little on tho centre, using the same method
as the common marble, having tho cover pre-
viously prepared. The end of a candle may
be rubbed on different parts of the boards,
which will form knots.
3118. Vinegar Black for Book-
binders. Steep iron filings or rusty iron in
good vinegar for two or three days, then
strain off the liquor.
3119. To Sprinkle Books. Take a
stiff brush made of hogs' bristles, perfectly
clean, dip it in the color; squeeze out the
superfluous liquid; then rub a folding-stick
across tho brush, and a fine sprinkle will fall
on the edge of the book, which should be
previously screwed tight in the cutting-press.
Kepeat the operation until the color is thrown
equally on every part of tho leaves. The
brush should be held in the left hand, and the
stick in tho right.
3120. Chinese Marble for Leather
Book-Covers. Color tho cover of tho book
dark brown, and when dry put it into the cut-
ting-press, with the boards perfectly flat;
mix whiting and water of a thick consistence
and throw it on, in spots or streaks, some
largo and some small, which must remain till
dry. Spot or sprinkle the cover with liquid
blue, and lastly throw on large spots of liquid
red. Tho colors must be dry before washing
off the whiting.
3121. Orange Sprinkle for Books.
Color the edge with King's yellow, mixed in
weak gum-water, then sprinkle with vermilion
mixed in the same manner.
3122. Purple Sprinkle for Book-
binders. Logwood chips, 4 parts ; pow-
dered alum, 1 part; soft water, 24 parts.
Boil until reduced to 1G parts, and bottle for
use. Or: Brazil dust (fine), and mix it with
potash water for use.
3123. Soap Marble for Books. This
is applicable for marbling stationery, book
edges, or sheets of paper for ladies' fancy
work. Grind, on a marble slab, Prussian
blua, with water, and a little brown soap, to
a fine pliable consistence, that it may be
thrown on with a small brush. Grind King's
yellow in tho same manner, with water and
white soap. When green is intended for
tho ground color, grind it with brown soap,
and King's yellow with white soap. Lake
may be used for a ground color, and Prussian
blue ground with white soap ; brown umber
for a ground color, and flake- white ground
with white soap. Any color of a light sub-
stance may be ground for marbling.
3124. Spotted Marble for Books.
After the fore-edge of the book is cut, let it
remain in the press, and throw on linseeds in
a regular manner; sprinkle the edge with any
dark color, till the white paper is covered,
then shake off the seeds. Various colors may
be used. The edge may be colored with
yellow or red before throwing on tho seeds
and sprinkling with blue. The seeds will
make a fine fancy edge when placed very
thick on different parts, with a lew slightly
thrown on the spaces between.
3125. Brown Sprinkle for Leather
Book-Covers. Pearlash or potash, 1 part;
soft water, 4 parts. Dissolve and strain.
3126. Bed Sprinkle for Binders.
Brazil wood (ground), 4 parts; alum, 1 part;
vinegar, 4 parts ; water, 4 parts. Boil until
reduced to 7 parts, then add a small quantity
of loaf-sugar and gum. Bottle for use.
3127. Black Sprinkle for Leather
Book-Covers. Green copperas, 1 part ; soft
water, hot, 6 parts. Dissolve.
PllOtOgraphy. Photography is
based upon the law or principle that
sunlight decomposes certain combinations of
the salts of silver. For instance, if a piece of
paper is first dipped into a solution of chloride
of sodium (common table salt,) and then,
when dried, floated on a solution of nitrate of
silver, it will, upon being brought to tho
light, begin to darken, and finally assume an
absolute black. It will be seen that if any
opaque or semi-opaque body is interposed be-
tween the light and the paper, that portion
which is so protected from the action of tho
light remains white, and thus impresses upon
the paper, in a negative condition, the form
or figure of the article so used.
The entire matter embraced in NQS. 3123
to 3154 is contributed by the eminent
photographer, Mr. Geo. G. Rockwood, of
New York.
3129. To Make a Photograph "With-
out a Camera. Tho art of photography
has many interesting and useful applications
other than portraiture, one of the simplest
and most beautiful of which we here present.
It can be applied to the copying of laces,
drawings, leaves, or anything of a transparent
or translucent nature. It is proposed to first
describe the manipulations, and then give the
formulae.
3130. Papier Saxe for Photography.
Tho best is the papier saxe, an article made
expressly for photography, and may be ob-
tained from any dealer in photographic ma-
terials. It is sold in sheets about 18 by 22
inches. Tho smooth side can be easily select-
ed, and upon that side the print should be
made. Cut tho paper into the sizes most
convenient for the stylo of picture desired,
and prepare the salting solution as follows :
3131. Salting Solution for Photo-
graphic Paper. Mix together pure water,
16 ounces ; chloride of ammonium or of
sodium, ICO grains. Take enough of this to
cover a shallow dish of porcelain to the depth
of £ inch or more, and then immerse the
paper, one sheet at a time. "When a half
dozen are in, turn them all over, and take
286
PHOTOGRAPHY.
them out one by one, in the order ia which
they were immersed, and hang them up
separately to dry.
3132. Albumenized Paper for Pho-
tography. Albumenized paper, such as is
used for ordinary portraiture in the galleries,
is always ready prepared for silvering. It is
much the finest and sharpest in its results,
and will usually be adopted; but the most
artistic effects will be produced by the use of
plain papier saxe. Paper, in either of these
forms, prepared with chloride (salt) will keep
indefinitely.
3133. Silver Solution, to Sensatize
Paper. The weather being propitious for
printing (a clear, bright sunlight is preferable),
the salted or albumenized paper is taken into
a darkened room to be rendered sensitive by
the silver solution. Make about the same
quantity of this as of the salting solution, by
using, in the following proportions : Pure wa-
ter, 1 ounce ; nitrate of silver (in crystals), 60
grains. "When thoroughly dissolved, pour
the solution into a flat porcelain dish, and
carefully remove all bubbles, &c.
3134. To Make the Paper Sensitive.
Having prepared the silver solution as above
directed, take the paper by opposite corners,
smooth side down if plain paper, glazed side
if albumeuized; lower one corner on to the
solution, and steadily lower the rest to the
surface of the solution, so that the air is com-
pletely driven out, and the entire surface ex-
posed to the action of the silver. Be very
careful that the solution does not get on the
back of the paper. Plain paper (papier saxe)
should float 2 minutes ; albumenized, 3
minutes. Carefully raise the sheet from the
solution, and hang up to dry in a perfectly
dark room. It is best to proceed with the
printing as soon as the paper is dry. Addi-
tional brilliancy and sensitiveness is imparted
to the paper by exposing it, after it is thor-
oughly dry, to the fumes of ammonia. This
may be done by hanging it up with a clip or
pin in a close box, in which is a small dish
containing aqua ammonia F.F.F. This fum-
ing process may be dispensed with, yet the
prints are much more uniform when treated
with the ammonia.
3135. To Copy an Object. Having
prepared, in a dark room, a sheet of paper as
above, lay it upon a piece of glass; place
upon the glass a leaf as translucent as can be
found, and then above it, to hold it in place,
another piece of glass, and at each corner a
clip, or a common spring clothes-pin. Now
expose the plates so arranged, leaf side np, to
the sun's rays. The paper will at once begin
to darken, and in from 5 to 10 minutes, except
under the leaf, be entirely black. If the
plates are now taken into a dark room* and
separated, the image of the leaf, with all its
delicate tracery and beautiful lines, will be
found upon the paper, white, with black back-
ground. It would be well to put under the
sensitive paper a few thicknesses of soft paper,
or black cotton velvet. It serves as a pad or
cushion, and tends to press the paper up into
a closer contact with the inequalities of the
leaf, lace, or object used as a negative or
cliche". Small printing frames can be pur-
chased at a moderate sum, which will enable
the experimenter to examine the progress of
the work and ascertain when the print is
sufficiently exposed to the action of the light.
The exposure should continue until the image
is much darker than intended when finished,
as the after processes of toning and fixing
reduce or bleach the pictures very considera-
bly. As tie prints are taken out of the frame,
mit them away in the dark again, until ready
tor the toning bath.
3136. To Prepare a Picture for
Toning and Fixing. It will now be
necessary to tone and fix the picture, in order
that the image be rendered permanent. The
first processes to soak the print in a dish of
clear water for a few minutes, and thus wash
off the free nitrate of silver remaining upon
the surface of the paper. A half hour's soak-
ing, with one or tv.'o changes of the water,
will effect this so that it is ready for the ton-
ing bath.
3137. To Prepare a Toning Bath.
Chloride of gold is sold in bottles containing
15 grains. Dissolve this in 30 drachms of
water, add a drop of hydrochloric acid, and
preserve it as a stock solution in a bottle ;
mark this gold solution. Make in another
bottle a saturated solution of washing soda,
also as a stock solution; mark it as such:
Soda solution. "When the prints have been
washed as before directed, and are ready for
toning, mix 1 drachm of the gold solution
with 1 ounce of water, according to formula.
Pour into a tray, and drop in a small piece of
blue litmus paper ; it will become red. Ren-
der the bath alkaline by adding from the soda
solution, drop by drop, until the paper begins
to change blue again. It is better to prepare
the toning bath during the day, while the
printing is being done, as the bath seems to
work with more smoothness and uniformity.
It may be used, however, so soon as mixed.
3138. To Tone a Picture. The print
is now taken by two corners and immersed in
the gold or toning bath.' At first the print
will begin to bleach, and turn a warm red
color, which soon changes into a beautiful
warm black. Put in the prints one by one,
keeping them separated or constantly in gen-
tle motion, when the changes already spoken
of will occur. When a deep purple or warm
black is obtained, remove them to a basin of
clean water, and rinse them until all are toned,
when they are ready for immersion in a fixing
bath, to render them permanent.
PHOTOGRAPHY.
287
3139. To Prepare a Fixing Bath.
Take water, 6 ounces ; hyposulphite of soda,
1 ounce. This solution dissolves from the
paper all of the chloride of silver that has not
been acted upon by>the light, but does not in-
jure the picture or image. The usual time
for leaving the print in this bath is about 15
minutes. If the print is held up to transmit-
ted light before it is placed in this solution, it
will appear quite opaque .and cloudy in what
should be the clear parts of the picture.
After the print has been in the bath the
proper time this will disappear, and the print
have a clear, translucent effect. The print
should now be washed in 2 or 3 waters, and
left to soak in a dish of water all night. In
the morning it can be hung up to dry, and
then mounted, as the taste of the experiment-
er may suggest. If the saving of time is an
object, the print, after coming from the fixing
bath, can be rinsed in water and passed
through a common clothes-wringer a few
times, each time being dipped in clean water,
when the print will be found to be perfectly
washed. "When properly fixed, as already
described, they are to be washed, and finally
mounted on card or bristol board. The best
paste for this purpose is common laundry
starch.
3140. Precautions to be Observed in
Making1 a Picture. When directions are
given to prepare and keep the sensitive paper
in a dark room, it should, of course, be under-
stood that daylight only is to be excluded ;
gas or candle light will do no harm. A window
closely covered with yellow paper completely
filters the light of all actinic or chemical
power, and consequently will do no harm.
Be careful that not a drop of the fixing solu-
•tion gets into the gold or toning bath. After
the final process of fixing, take the greatest
care that the prints do not again come into
contact with the hyposulphite of soda. Soda
is good — indispensable in its place, but ex-
ceedingly harmful out of its place. So keep
all the dishes and fingers free from it. In all
of the manipulations, observe the most perfect
neatness. Handle the prints with the tips of
your fingers, and always with deliberation
and care. If the silver solution grows weak
by use — a mealy look to the prints indicates
it — add a few grains of nitrate of silver. If
by use it turns a dark wine color, and the
paper is not white when dry, set the solution
m clear sunlight for a day or two and it will
clear. Filter before using again. The soda
(fixing) bath should not be used more than 2
or 3 times. "Where prints are only occasion-
ally made, a fresh bath should be made each
time of printing. The gold (toning) bath
works quicker when warmed to about blood
heat, Prints will then tone in from 2 to 6
minutes. Prints on plain paper will tone
quicker than on albumenized. If prints are
undertoned they will present a warm brown
appearance ; if toned too much, a cold steel
color. A little experience will soon indicate
the precise amount of toning required.
3141. To Remove Nitrate of Silver
Stains. An inevitable consequence of prac-
ticing this process will be stains on the hands
and clothing from the nitrate of silver.
Moisten the spots with tincture of iodine, and
then with a saturated solution of hyposul-
phite of soda. Cyanide of potassium acts
more energetically, but is a very chmgerous
poison, and is not recommended.
3142. The Photographic Negative
or Clich6. In number 3128 we have sta-
ted the general principles of the photographic
art; that it was based upon the fact that
solar light decomposes certain combinations
of the salts of silver ; that in proportion or to
the extent that such sensitive surface is ex-
posed to the action of light, so is the depth of
the stain or intensity of the image upon the
prepared paper. Now if we should cut from
an opaque or black piece of paper, any form
or figure — an old fashioned silhouette would be
a familiar illustration — and place it upon the
silvered paper, the precise image or form cut
in the paper would, upon removal, be found
upon the paper; the paper remaining white
under the figure leaf or " theorem," while the
parts exposed to the light have turned black.
In place of this figure, science has given us
the Photographic Negative or Cliche. A
negative is an image produced upon glass by
a camera (an improved form of the old cam-
era obscura) and derives its name from the
fact that the image is reversed or negative by
transmitted light (looking through it), the
lights appearing dark, and the dark parts
light. The chemicals used to produce it are
also combinations of the salts of silver, but
are so sensitive to the action of light, that
they are decomposed instantaneously by ex-
posure. The formulae will follow a descrip-
tion of the process.
3143. To Make a Photographic
Negative. In a room illuminated only by a
feeble gas or candle light, .or by such daylight
as is filtered of its chemical power through
a sheet of yellow glass, a glass plate is care-
fully flowed with collodion. (See No. 3149.)
"When the plate has been evenly covered, the
excess is quickly but deliberately returned to
the bottle, and the plate gently and slowly
swayed from side to side until the collodion is
set, or when the surface is tacky to the touch.
It is then placed on a dipper, and, with a
steady, continuous motion, immersed, collo-
dion side upwards, in the silver bath. (See
No. 3150.) If the plate is stopped in its de-
scent into the bath, a check or line will show
across its face. In 3 to 5 minutes, depending
upon temperature, etc., the plate is coated,
or, in other words, the chemicals in the collo-
dion have united with the nitrate of silver,
forming the sensitive surface or coating, If
not coated sufficiently the surface will appear
greasy; in this case the plate must be returned
to the bath until the film appears perfectly
smooth. "While this is being done it is sup-
posed that the operator has adjusted the
camera upon the object to be photographed
by focussing his lens. This is clone by turn-
ing the lens in and out, or from and towards
the ground glass of the camera, until the
point is ascertained which gives the sharpest
image upon the ground glass. All being
ready, the operator returns to the dark room
for his sensitive plate. This is placed in a
"holder," and the ground glass being re-
moved, the holder is substituted in its place.
The slide or cover to the holder is now with-
drawn and the sensitive plate exposed to the
action of the image of light thrown upon it by
288
PHOTOGRAPHY.
the lens. After an exposure of 15 to 60 sec-
onds, depending so much upon the intensity
of the light that it can only be ascertained by
experience, the slide is replaced in the holder
and the plate taken to the dark room for de-
velopment.
3144. To Develop a Negative. This
is done by removing the plate from the hold-
er, and, holding the plate in a horizontal po-
•sition, flowing it with the developing solu-
tion. (See No. 3151.) If properly timed or
exposed, the image begins to appear. When
the details of the drapery, if a portrait, ap-
pear and the solution seems to have lost its
power, the plate is thoroughly washed under
a stream of clean water. If the image is suf-
ficiently strong and vigorous, it is " cleared"
by placing the plate in the fixing bath, and
that portion of the film not acted upon by the
light is dissolved away, leaving the image
upon the glass. After a thorough washing
in water, the plate is put in a rack to dry,
after which it is slightly warmed and var-
nished.
3145. To Varnish a Negative. The
varnish (see No. 3153) is flowed on and off'
precisely as with the collodion. (See No.
3143.) It should be again slightly wanned
to prevent the varnish from chilling or bloom-
ing. When dry, which will be in 5 to 10
minutes, the negative is ready for use as de-
scribed in Nos. 3135, <fcc., using the negative
instead of the leaf. Should the image have
evidence of full exposure by the existence of
all the proper detail, and yet want vigor or
intensity, this may be imparted, before var-
nishing, by re-development.
3146. To He-develop a Negative.
This is done by pouring upon the plate about
1 ounce of the pyrogallic acid solution to
which has been added 5 or 6 drops of the sil-
ver solution designated for that purpose. (See
No. 3152.)
3147. Glass for Photography. For
portraiture and ordinary landscape photo-
graphy, the best qualities of picture or win-
dow glass will suffice. There is an article
sold by dealers in photographic materials,
known as photographic or negative glass,
which is selected for the purpose and cut into
the regular sizes used in the art, viz., stereo-
scopic, "quarter" size, "half" size, "four-
four" <fcc., the latter being 6iX&J inches and
the other sizes fractional parts, as their names
suggest. For microscopic and scientific ex-
periments, plate glass would be preferable.
A quality known as " three quarter white "
plate, and only of the thickness of ordinary
single thick window glass, has all the requi-
sites for exact photography. "When it is pro-
posed to print photographs upon glass, for
magic lanterns or transparencies, plate glass is
absolutely essential.
3148. To Prepare Glass for Photo-
graphy. All new glass should be placed for
a few minutes in a strong solution of com-
mercial nitric acid (say 1 ounce nitric acid to
3 ounces water), and then thoroughly washed
in clean water. While wet, pour upon the
glass a solution consisting of white of egg, 1
ounce ; water, 20 ounces ; drain off into a
separate bottle, or clean, filter, and set up in a
rack to dry. The albumen and water solution,
before using, should be very thoroughly beaten
together. After the froth has subsided, filter
the solution through a clean sponge, two or
three thicknesses of linen, or, still better, fil-
tering paper. The solution above named will
coat more plates than an amateur would be
likely to use. Use fresh eggs and a newly
made solution whenever coating plates. The
plates so prepared will keep indefinitely.
3149. Collodion for Photography.
Collodion is the vehicle by which the photo-
graphic chemicals are united upon the surfaco
of the glass and the sensitive coating pro-
duced. It is made by dissolving in equal of
nearly equal proportions of sulphuric ethet
and alcohol, gun cotton or pyroxylino together
with certain salts of potassium, cadmium,
ammonium, &c., in proportions named in the
formulae. Many formulae are published for
this article to which great value is attached,
some supposing that to its peculiar composi-
tion belong the principal causes of failure 01
success. This is only in a degree true. In-
ferior or carelessly prepared chemicals used in
any stage of the process impair results. The
writer has fixed as a general principle in the
preparation of collodion the proportion of 1
grain of the exciting salts (in each ounce of
collodion), to every 10 grains of silver in the
bath. To illustrate : If the silver bath solu-
tion is at 50°, or, more definitely, 50 grains of
silver to each ounce of water, we would make
the collodion so as to contain in each ounce
of collodion 5 grains of the various salts of
cadmium, ammonium, etc.; or another way of
putting it, the bath should be ten times as
strong as the collodion. The sensitizing salts
should be selected with a special reference to
the peculiarities of the light or subjects. It
can be made under one formula to cover
almost all emergencies ; yet special kinds of
work for extremes of light or shadow can be
improved by varying the combinations of the
exciting or sensitizing salts. For portraiture
in a room of evenly diffused light the iodide
of cadmium as the principal excitant gives
softness and delicacy to the image. Thus :
I. Take of sulphuric ether, 1 ounce; 95 per
cent, alcohol, 1 ounce ; gun cotton, 6 grains ;
iodide of cadmium, 4 grains ; bromide of cad-
mium, 2 grains.
II. Sulphuric ether, 1 ounce ; alcohol, 1
ounce ; gun cotton, 6 grains ; iodide of cad-
mium, 3-J grains; bromide of potassium. 2-J-
grains.
These two formula? give the utmost deli-
cacy and transparency to the shadows, and
work with rapidity, when preserving their
proper relations to the silver bath solution, of
which we speak in the proper place. If more
brightness is desired to the image, instead of
the iodide of cadmium put the fame quantity
of iodide of ammonium. If still greater con-
trasts arc required, use iodide of potassium in
place of cither the cadmium or potassium.
The latter is favorable for copying engravings,
maps, plans, <tc., in which strong contrasts
of white and black are desirable. It is well
to prepare from all these formula; and then
modify results by mixiug them together as
the subjects or light may demand. Farther
combinations may be suggested ; under a
feeble light, or where there are large masses of
shadow, reduce the amount of the iodide Fait
one grain and increase the bromide one grain.
PHOTOGRAPHY.
289
IN COMBINING THE INGREDIENTS, measure j with normal collodion of the usual deserip-
out the required quantity of alcohol, and to tion, and when the film has set perfectly, but
it add the gun cotton and such of the exciting has not become completely dry, the pictures,
salts as dissolve in alcohol, and lastly the I which have previously been trimmed and
ether. Shake until all are thoroughly dis- finished, are dipped rapidly into alcohol, and
solved, and put aside over night to settle
When clear, decant into the flowing or coating
bottle for use. Such of the excitants as do
not dissolve in alcohol should be dissolved in
as small a quantity of water as is possible and
added to the alcohol, &c., a little at a time, and
quickly shaken.
3150. Silver Bath. Make a solution in
the proportion of GO grains nitrate of silver to
1 ounce water. Test the solution with litmus
paper, and if slightly alkaline, or neutral, add
nitric acid to produce a faint red reaction to
the paper. The best method is to add a few
drops of chemically pure nitric acid to an
ounce of water, and add this solution to the
silver bath a very few drops at a time. Then
coat a plate with collodion and let it remain
in the bath all night. The freshly made col-
lodion can be used for this purpose, and thus
both collodion and silver solution or bath be
made ready for work at the same time.
3151. Developing Solution. This
may be made in stock solution of the simple
applied without delay to the plates. The
prints are pressed and rubbed down with
smooth writing paper, and the operation of
mounting is proceeded with as soon as the
backs of the pictures have become white; or,
in other words, as soon as the alcohol has
again evaporated. The cardboard should be
allowed to remain in water for at least half an
hour previously to its being employed for
mounting. The more rapidly the pictures are
applied and pressed upon the collodion sur-
face, the more beautiful will be the finished
result.
3156. Photographic Impressions
With Fuchsine. A piece of linen goods
colored with fuchsine, and dried, was exposed
to the light under a photographic negative,
when the image of the plate became visible
on the goods, the picture looking greyish and
faded where the lights were strongest. Still
the picture was rather weak, and the goods
were soaked for 2 days in a bath of sulphate of
copper, when the picture was found to be
sulphate of iron and water, and then reduced | more developed. After several rinsings in
in strength and made ready for use each day.
For the stock solution take water, 16 ounces ;
sulphate of iron, 4 ounces. Dissolve and fil-
ter. "When wanted for use, take stock solu-
tion, 1 ounce ; water, 4 ounces ; acetic acid
(No. 8), i ounce. The addition of about £ tapioca paper, which is very useful for copy-
ing photographs by artificial light, 200
ounce alcohol to the above formula often faci-
litates the smooth flowing of the solution on
the plate. It is particularly essential when
the bath has been in long use and is "satu-
rated" with ether and alcohol from the plates.
3152. Re-developing Solution, for
adding vigor and intensity to the negative, is
made of water, 1 ounce ;
grain ; citric acid, 1 grain.
pyrogallic acid, 1
Pour into a small
beaker or cupping glass about 1 ounce of this
solution, and add, by means of a pipette, 5 or
6 drops of a solution of 20 grains nitrate of
silver dissolved in 1 ounce water. Imme-
diately flow this solution over the plate, occa-
sionally returning the solution to the little
beaker glass. As soon as the solution begins
to assume a wine color, it is acting with vigor
on the negative and should be closely watched,
that the negative does not become too intense.
When sufficiently dense, throw away the solu-
tion and thoroughly wash both the negative
and the glass. The latter should always bo
kept perfectly clean and free from any deposit
from the re-developing solutions.
3153. Negative Varnish of excellent
quality can always be secured at the dealers
in photographic materials. In an emergency
common shellac varnish, somewhat thinned
down with alcohol, and filtered through cotton,
will answer the purpose. (See No. 2935.)
3154. The Causes of Failure would
almost require a chapter by themselves; a long
experience convinces us that nine out of every
ten failures occur from a want of care, the
presence of dirt, negligence. One cannot be
over-nice, careful or cleanly — the best results
always rewarding the most painstaking.
3155. To Enamel Cameo Pictures.
Ordinary well polished glass plates are coated
water, and two days' exposure on the grass,
the rest of the goods were bleached white,
leaving the picture of a pure violet tint on a
white background.
3157. Tapioca Paper. To prepare
grammes (6J Troy ounces) of tapioca are
soaked for 2 days in an equal weight of wa-
ter ; 10 litres (about 21 pints) of water are
added, and afterwards, for every litre (quart)
of liquid, 10 grammes (154 grains) iodide of
potassium, 30 grammes (463 grains) chloride of
potassium, 1 gramme (15£ grains) bromide of
potassium, are dissolved, and the whole
boiled for 10 minutes, allowed to stand for a
day, and decanted and filtered through fine
linen. The paper is immersed, 12 or 20 sheets
at a time — or can be floated upon it — for 15
to 20 minutes ; it is then hung up to dry in a
dark room. If it has assumed a dark color,
that is of no consequence, as it disappears in
the silver bath. This is to be prepared in the
proportion of 1 ounce nitrate of silver, 50 to
60 grains of citric acid in 30 ounces of water.
The time of exposure varies from 10 seconds
to 25 minutes, according to the picture to be
copied and the actinic force of the light.
3158. To Recover Gold and Silver
from Photographic Solutions. The
silver and gold waste that result from photo-
graphic operations are be^t collected in a
large bottle or jar, together with anything
else that might contain either of the two
metals. "When the bottle is nearly full, pour
a little hydrochloric acid and a solution of
green sulphate of iron (copperas) into it,
and let it stand on a warm place until the
supernatant liquid appears perfectly clear.
Add then a few drops more of the hydrochloric
acid and iron solution, and observe whether a
fresh precipitate forms or not. In the latter
case, draw the clear liquid off by means of
a syphon, and reserve the residue. If the
bottle has become partially filled in course of
29O
PHOTOGEAPHY.
time with insoluble chloride of silver and
metallic gold, place the residue on a filter,
wash it with very dilute acid, and, lastly,
with water. After drying, it is to be mixed
with several times its weight of dry carbonate
of soda, the whole conveyed to a crucible, and
the latter heated to a bright red heat, and
kept there for about 10 minutes. After taking
the crucible out of the fire, and allowing it to
grow cold, it is broken, the button of the
alloy of gold and silver cleaned, and heated in
a suitable vessel with dilute nitric acid, which
will dissolve all the silver, as nitrate of silver,
and leave the gold in a finely divided state.
This is dissolved by nitro-hydrochloric acid
(aqua regia). It is hardly necessary to say
that, for photographic purposes, both solutions
must be evaporated in a water-bath until the
excess of acid has been volatilized, when they
may be diluted with a sufficient amount of
water, and used. (See No. 3166.)
3159. Simple Method of Copying
Drawings, Etc. Silvered albumen paper,
after being washed, may be conveniently
used for copying negatives as well as posi-
tives. It keeps for weeks, and becomes
sensitive to light only after exposure to the
vapors of aqua ammonia, technically termed
smoking with ammonia. Dr. H. Yogel has
greatly simplified the latter process by substi-
tuting for the liquid ammonia the powder of
carbonate of ammonia. He thoroughly im-
pregnates a piece of felt or cloth with this
powder, and lays it under the silvered sheet,
separated from it by a piece of blotting-paper.
He places the silvered paper, with the sub-
stratum of carbonate of ammonia and the
drawing on top, between two plates of glass,
and, exposing it to the light of the window,
obtains a copy quite distinct in all its details.
The copy obtained is, of course, in white lines
upon black ground. Such photographs re-
quire to be treated with soda when intended
for long preservation.
3160. Lea's Solution for Cleaning
Photographic Glasses. "Water, 1 pint;
sulphuric acid, k ounce ; bichromate potash,
J ounce. The glass plates, varnished or
otherwise, are left, say 10 or 12 hours, or as
much longer as desired, in this solution, and
then rinsed in clean water, and wiped or
rubbed dry with soft white paper. This pre-
paration is by Mr. Carey Lea, of Philadelphia,
and is said to be the best in use. It quickly
removes silver stains from the skin without
any of the attendant dangers of the cyanide
of potassium.
3161. "Wenderoth's Photographic
Varnish. Nearly all photographic varnishes
reduce the intensity of the negative. Mr. F.
A. Wenderoth, of Philadelphia, states that if
a thin solution of1 gum-arabic is applied to the
negative after fixing and before drying, the
varnish will not affect the intensity. This is
a very simple and useful remedy. Mr. "Wen-
deroth also states that he has long practiced
the covering of photographic paper prints
upon both sides with collodion varnish, and
finds it a complete preservative of the picture.
Nearly all photographs will fade away in a
few years unless thus protected.
3162. Collodion Varnish for Photo-
graphic Prints. A very effective and
agreeable polish is communicated to card or
cabinet prints, etc., simply by coating them
with a glutinous plain collodion, made as
follows : Alcohol, 3 ounces ; ether, 4 ounces ;
pyroxyliue, 42 grains. Dissolve and filter in
the i\sual manner. The prints are first cut
to the proper size and floated on the reverse
side upon clean water until they lie perfectly
flat ; then take one print at a time and place
it on a piece of glass of the same size as itself,
moist side downwards ; it easily adheres to
the glass. Let the excess of water drain off,
and remove all moisture from the picture
surface ; now coat it with the collodion and
let it drain in the usual way, then dry it be-
fore the fire or in any manner which is most
convenient. This polish is not so flagrant on
the one hand as the so-called enamel surface,
nor so dead as an ordinary albumen print that
has undergone all the operations up to the
mounting.
3163. Preservation of Photographs.
H. Cooper, Jr., of England, gives the follow-
ing formula for a preservative varnish which
is stated to be an entire protection against
fading : 1 drachm gum damar dissolved in 1
ounce benzole. 1 drachm paraffine, dissolved
in 1 ounce benzole. Mix 4 parts of the
paraffine solution with 1 part of the damar
solution. Photographic prints covered with
this varnish are impermeable to water. A
solution of the paraffine only will do ; but it
is better with the gum damar.
3164. Everlasting Photographs on
Enamel. First-class photographs, either
negatives or positives, may be taken on
Duchemin's enamel (see No. 2402) without
collodion, by using bitumen, or citrate of
iron, or perchloride of iron and tartaric acid,
or bichromate, or any other salt. A' good
solution for this purpose is, water, 100 parts
by weight ; gum, 4 parts : honey, 1 part ;
pulverized bichromate of potash, 3 parts
Filter the liquid, spread it over the enamel,
and let it rest, after which, expose it to the
camera. Develop the image by brushing
over it the following powder : Oxide of cobalt,
180 parts by weight ; black oxide of iron, 90
parts; red lead, 100 parts; sand, 30 parts.
Decompose the bichromate by immersion in a
bath formed of water, 100 parts by weight ;
hydrochloric acid, 5 parts. Wash it in clean
water and dry it ; and lastly, vitrefy the proof
on a clean piece of cast iron, the surface of
which has been previously chalked. One
minute will suffice for indelibly fixing and
glazing the photograph, which must be care-
fully and slowly allowed to cool. Photo-
graphs on enamel of any size, taken in this
manner, are perfectly unalterable under all
atmospheric conditions, and may consequently
and aptly be called everlasting photographs.
3165. Searing's Process for Photo-
graphing on Wood for Engraving.
The block on which the picture is to be made
is first dampened with water, then whitened
with enamel rubbed from the surface of good
enameled visiting cards. Rub gently, re-
moving only the enamel, after which it is
brushed smooth with a moderately stiff brush,
from right to left and up and down, making a
smooth, even, and very thin surface. Allow
this to dry, after which it is flowed with a
solution of albumen, made with the white of
1 egg and 16 ounces of water, dried by heat
PHOTOGRAPHY.
291
Now coafl and
or allowed to dry spontaneously,
it with another albumen solution made as
follows: "White of 1 egg: water, 4 ounces;
chloride of ammonia, 40 grains. Beat the
whole to a thick froth. Allow to subside,
then decant or filter through a fine sponge
placed in a glass funnel. Pour a sufficient
quantity on one corner of the block to cover
it, when spread around with the aid of a £ or
£ glass. (using the edge). Allow the surplus
solution to drain back into the bottle. Dry
this by a gentle heat. Next flow on, in the
dark room, solution No. 3, prepared as fol-
lows: Ether, 1 ounce; alcohol, 1 ounce;
gun-cotton, 8 grains ; nitrate of silver, 30
grains ; dissolve in as small a quantity of wa-
ter as possible, and allow to settle for a few
days, protected from the light. Again dry
the block by gentle heat. It is now ready for
exposure under the negative. A porcelain
printing-frame, or any other suitable method,
may be used to print it. After printing,
solution No. 3 is removed from the surface of
the block by dissolving in ether and alcohol,
assisted by rubbing gently with a soft sponge.
The picture can now be toned and fixed in
the ordinary way, or fixed and toned at one
operation, by the hypo and gold bath. After
being allowed to dry, it is ready for the
engraver.
3166. To Recover Silver from Photo-
graphic Waste. To obtain the silver from
a photographic bath, or from the rejected
photographs and clippings, is a most im-
portant measure of economy in the art. The
bath should bo filtered, and a solution of
common salt added ; this precipitates chloride
of silver, which is to be collected on a filter,
dried, and washed; then the metallic silver
may be obtained from it by the action of
metallic zinc, a strip of which being placed in
the pulpy mass, will combine with the
chloride, and leave the silver in a spongy
mass of a gray color ; after washing, this may
be dissolved in nitric acid and crystallized.
Another process is to mix tho chloride with
nitrate of potassa and fuse in a crucible — the
silver is thus obtained in a button. The
papers must be incinerated, the ashes collect-
ed and treated with nitric acid and heat;
diluted with water, and filtered ; it is now
an impure solution of silver, to be treated in
the same way as the bath. (See No. 3158.)
3167. To Clean off Collodion Pic-
tures. A tuft of cotton dipped in methylic
alcohol, and rubbed over tho surface of the
picture, will remove it entirely, whether var-
nished or not.
3168. Paper for Photography. The
paper used for photography may be the finest
satin post paper, of uniform texture, free
from the maker's mark, specks, and all im-
perfections. The papers must be prepared by
candle-light, and kept in tho dark till used.
3169. Simple Nitrated Paper. This
is merely paper brushed over with a strong
solution of nitrate of silver. In brushing
over the paper it must not be crossed. Its
sensitiveness is increased by using spirits of
wine instead of water. This paper only
requires washing in water to fix the drawing.
3170. Muriated Paper. The paper is
first soaked in solution of common salt,
pressed with a linen cloth or blotting-paper,
dried. It is then brushed over on one
side (which should be marked near the edge)
with the solution of nitrate of silver, and
dried at the fire. The stronger the solution,
the more sensitive the paper. If the barytic
solution (see No. 3181) be used instead of
common salt, richer shades of color are ob-
tained. A solution of 10 grains sal ammoniac
in 1 ounce water gives a very sensitive paper.
A due proportion must be observed in the
silver and salt solutions, as follows :
Sensitive paper for the camera, use 50
grains common salt to 1 ounce water ; and
120 grains nitrate of silver to 1 ounce water.
Or: 60 grains of the nitrate with 40 grains
muriate of ammonia, and 4 ounces water.
Or: 100 grains nitrate with the barytic solu-
tion. (See No. 3181.)
Less sensitive, for copying engravings,
botanical and entomological specimens, <fec.
The salt solution to contain 25 grains salt to
1 ounce water. The silver solution 90 grains
in 1 ounce water.
Forcopying lace-work, feathers, patterns, &c.
The salt solution, 20 grains ; the silver solu-
tion, 40 grains to 1 ounce. To fix the draw-
ing on these papers, they must be first washed
in lukewarm water, then dipped twice in
solution of hyposulphite of soda (1 ounce to 1
pint), then in pure water, and dried.
3171. Iodized Paper. Brush over the
paper on one side (which should be marked)
with strong solution of nitrate of silver (100
grains to 1 ounce); then dip it in solution of
iodide of potassium (25 grains to 1 ounce) ;
wash it in distilled water, drain, and dry it.
3172. Bromide Paper. Soak the paper
in solution of bromide oi potassium (40 grains
to 1 ounce) ; then brush it over with strong
solution of nitrate of silver, and dry in the
dark.
3173. Chromatype Paper. Simple
chromatype paper is prepared as follows :
Soak the paper in the simple solution (see No.
3182), and dry it at a brisk fire. To fix the
drawing, careful immersion in warm water is
all that is required. • It is not sufficiently
sensitive for the camera.
For COMPOUND CHROMATYPE PAPER.
"Wash the paper with the compound solution
(see No. 3182), and dry it. After the paper
has been exposed to the sun with the article
to be copied superposed upon it, it is washed
over in the dark with a solution of nitrate of
silver of moderate strength. A vivid picture
makes its appearance, which is sufficiently
fixed by washing in pure water. For copying
engravings, &c. Another method is to brush
writing paper over with a solution of 1 drachm
of sulphate of copper in 1 ounce of water;
and when dry, with a strong but not saturated
solution of bichromate of potash.
3174. Cyanotype Paper. Brash the
paper over with a solution of amrnonio-citrate
of iron. Expose the paper in the usual way,
then wash it over with a solution of ferro-
cyanide of potassium.
3175. Crysotype Paper. "Wash the
paper with solution of arumonio-citrate of
iron, dry it, and afterwards brush it over with
a solution of ferrocyanide of potassium. Dry
it in a dark room. The image is brought out
by brushing it over with a neutral solution of
gold or of silver.
292
METALS.
3176. Calotype Paper. The paper is
saturated in 1 ounce water, containing 20
grains iodide of potassium, and dried. Then
made sensitive by soaking in 1 ounce distilled
water containing 20 grains nitrate of silver
and i drachm glacial acetic acid, and dried in
a dark room.
3177. Instantaneous Positive Paper.
Mix 6 drachms of a saturated solution of
bichloride of mercury with 1 pint distilled wa-
ter. Float the paper on this solution in a
flat dish. Dry it ; take into a dark place lit
by a candle with a yellow glass, and render it
sensitive by a solution of 38 grains nitrate of
silver to 1 ounce water. To print, expose to
a perpendicular light from 2 to 10 seconds in
summer, about 1 minute in winter; then
immediately cover with a black cloth. The
image, at first very feeble, is developed by
this solution ; sulphate of iron, 15 grains ;
glacial acetic acid, 25 grains ; distilled water,
1 ounce. The deepening of tint must be
watched, and arrested at the proper moment.
Then wash, and fix with hyposulphite.
3178. Albumenized Paper for Posi-
tive Printing. "White of egg, and water,
equal parts ; iodide of potassium or chloride
of sodium, 5 grains to 1 ounce water (or bro-
mide of potassium, 20 grains). Coat the paper
with this solution. Dry. Immerse in the
dark in bath of 120 grains nitrate of silver to
1 ounce water. Dry again. This is exposed
with the negative over it, for 10 to 15 minutes.
3179. Prepared Wax Paper. Make
a strong size by digesting 25 parts gelatine,
50 of linseed, and 150 of rice flour, in 2000 to
3000 parts hot water. Filter through a cloth.
Take of this size, when cold, 1000 parts by
weight, and dissolve in it sugar of milk, 50
parts: iodide of potassium, 35; bromide of
potassium, 5 parts.
3180. Artificial Ivory for Photo-
graphers. Sheets or tablets of gelatine or
glue are immersed in a solution of alumina.
"When entirely penetrated by the alumina, the
slabs are to be removed, dried, and polished
like ivory. (Mayall.)
3181. Barytic Photographic Solution.
Dissolve 35 grains chloride of barium in 2
ounces distilled water.
3182. Chromate Photographic Solu-
tions. Simple chromatc solution is a sat-
urated solution of bichromate of potash ; a
little sulphate of indigo being sometimes add-
ed to vary the color.
The compound chromate solution consists
of 10 grains bichromate of potash, and 20
grains sulphate of copper, dissolved in 1 ounce
distilled water.
3183. Hydriodate of Iron and Bary-
tes Photographic Solution. Hydriodate
of barytes, 40 grains; water, 1 ounce; pure
sulphate of iron, 5 grams; mix, filter, add a
' drop or two diluted sulphuric acid, and when
settled decant the clear liquor for use.
3184. Hardwich's Gold Toning Bath
for Positive Printing. Pure chloride of
gold, 1 grain; hyposulphite of soda, 1 to 3
grains; hydrochloric acid, 4 minims; water, 4
ounces.
3185. May all's Method of Cleaning
Photographic Glasses. Shake up together
30 parts alcohol, 10 parts strong liquid am-
monia, 40 parts water, and 30 parts fine Tri-
poli. The plates are to be rubbed hard and
evenly with balls of cotton-wool dipped in
the mixture. "When dry, rub again with a
clean ball of cotton, and dust off the back
and edges with a clean hog's-hair brash.
Metals. Metals are elementary or
undecompounded bodies, which are
distinguished by their weight, lustre, fusibility,
power of conducting heat, electricity, &c.
(see Nos. 3349 to 3357 inclusive), and the
numerous compounds which they furnish by
combination with one another, and with other
bodies. "When their solutions are decomposed
by a galvanic current, the metals always ap-
pear at the electro-negative surface, and are
hence termed electro-positive bodies.
3187. Assaying. The method of de-
termining the quantity of pure gold and silver
in the alloys of these metals. -This art re-
quires great skill and experience in its per-
formance; and, from the costliness of the
precious metals, is of the utmost importance.
A downward draught furnace of any shape
and size may be employed, provided it will
afford a sufficient heat, and allow the intro-
duction of the muffle. The muffle is a pot
made of clay, and furnished with an opening
at its end, to admit the introduction of the
cupels, and to allow of inspection, of the pro-
cess. It is placed on the muffle-plate, by
which it is introduced into the furnace. The
cupel is a sort of shallow crucible, made of
bone ashes or burnt bones. At the British
mint the cupels are made of the calcined cores
of ox-horns. The powder is slightly moisten-
ed with water, and a circular steel mould is
filled therewith, and after being pressed down
tight, is finished off with a rammer, having a
convex face of polished steel, which is struck
forcibly with a mallet, until the mass becomes
sufficiently hard and adherent. The cupel is
then carefully removed, and exposed in the
air to dry, which usually takes from 14 to 21
days. The muffle, with the cupels properly
arranged, being placed in tho furnace, the lat-
ter is filled up with charcoal, and lighted at
the top by placing a few pieces, heated to
whiteness, on last. "When the cupels have
been exposed for half an hour, and have be-
come white by heat, the lead is put into thorn
by means of a pair of tongs, and as soon as
this becomes thoroughly red and circulating,
as it is called, the metal to be assayed, wrap-
ped in a small piece of paper, is added, and
the fire kept up strongly until the metal enters
the lead, and circulates well, when the heat
may be slightly diminished, and so regulated
that the assay shall appear convex and ardent,
while the cupel is less red — that the undula-
tions shall circulate in all directions, and that
the middle of the metal shall appear smooth,
surrounded with a small circle of litharge,
which is being continually absorbed by the
cupel. This treatment must be continued
until the metal becomes bright and shining,
or is t-aid to "lighten ;" after which certain
prismatic colors, or rainbow hues, suddenly
flash across the globules, and undulate and
cross each other, and the latter metal soon
after appears very brilliant and clear, and at
length becomes fixed and solid. This is called
GOLD.
293
the "brightening," and shows that the separa-
tion is ended. In conducting this process, all
the materials used must be accurately weigh-
ed, especially the weight of the alloy before
cupellation, and the resulting button of pure
metal. The difference gives the quantity of
alloy. The preceding general description of
the process of cupellation will render the fol-
lowing articles intelligible, without again en-
tering into the minutiae of the operation. An
assay is thought to be good when the bead is
of a round form, with its upper surface bril-
liant, its lower one granular and dead- white,
and when it separates readily from the cupel.
"When the surface of the bead is dull and flat,
it shows that too much heat has been em-
ployed ; and if the metal be silver, some may
have been lost in the process, by fuming or
absorption. "When the bead is spongy, and
of various colors, and scales of litharge still
remain on the cupel, and the metal adheres
strongly to the latter, too little heat has been
used, and the button still retains some lead.
To remedy this, the heat should be raised, and
a little powdered charcoal, or a few small
pieces of paper, thrown into the cupel, until
the metal again begins to circulate freely. It
is necessary that the lead employed in the
process of cupellation should be perfectly
pure. It ought, therefore, to bo procured by
reducing refined litharge. (Cooley.)
3188. Puscher's Solution for Coloring
Metals. This is a new method of giving
metals a durable colored coating, and can be
executed quickly and cheaply. To prepare
the solution dissolve 1£ ounces hyposulphite
of soda in 1 pound water, and add 1 h ounces
acetate of lead dissolved in k pound of water.
"When this clear solution is heated to 190° to
210° Fahr., it decomposes slowly, and precip-
itates sulphide of lead in brown flocks. If
metal is now immersed in it a part of the sul-
phide of lead is deposited thereon, and accord-
ing to the length of time and consequent
thickness of the deposited sulphide of lead,
the various and beautiful lustre colors are pro-
duced. In 5 minutes there may be imparted
to brass articles a color varying from a beau-
tiful gold to a copper red ; then carmine red ;
then dark, then light aniline blue, to a blue
white, like sulphide of lead; and at last a
reddish white, according to the length of time
they remain in the solution used. The colors
possess the most beautiful lustre, and if the
articles to be colored have been previously
thoroughly cleaned by means of acids and
alkalies, they adhere so firmly that they may
be operated upon by the polishing steel. To
produce an even coloring, the articles to be
colored must be evenly heated.
Iron treated with this solution takes a steel
blue color; zinc, a brown color; in the case
of copper objects the first gold color does not
appear ; lead and zinc are entirely indifferent.
If, instead of the acetate of lead, an equal
weight of sulphuric acid be added to the hypo-
sulphite of soda, and the process earned on
as before, the brass is covered with a very
beautiful red, which is followed by a green,
and changes finally to a splendid brown with
green and red iris-glitter ; this last is a very
durable coating, and may find special atten-
tion in manufactures. (See No. 3313.)
Yery beautiful niarbleized designs can be
produced by using a lead solution thickened
with gum tragacanth on brass which has
been heated to 210° Fahr., and afterwards
treated by the usual solution of sulphide of
lead. The solution may be used several
times, and is not liable to spontaneous change.
Gold.. The most marked properties of
metallic gold are its ductility, malleabil-
ity, and insolubility in all menstrua, except
aqua regia and aqueous chlorine, and its slight
affinity for oxygen. Native gold has a spe-
cific gravity of 13.3 to 17.7 ; pure gold, about
19.3; its greatest density is 19.5. Its fu-
sing point is 2016° Fahr. It is characterized
by its yellow color, its insolubility in nitric
acid, and ready solution in nitromuriatic acid
(aqua regia), forming a yellow liquid that
stains the skin purple.
3190. Assay of Gold by the Use of
Touch-Stones. "When it is desired to as-
certain the fineness of small quantities of
gold, as in jewelry, <fcc., touch-needles and
stones are employed. The former are made
in sets, containing gold of different fineness
and differently alloyed with copper and sil-
ver. Pieces of black pottery form excellent
touch-stones. The mode of using them is to
mark the stone with the sample under exam-
ination, and to compare its appearance, hard
ness, <fcc., with that produced by one or more
of the needles. "When the two are similar,
the quality is considered to be the same.
They are then further examined by moisten-
ing the stroke with aquafortis when red hot,
when the appearances resulting from oxida
tion, etc., differ according to the nature and
quantity of the alloy.
3191. Assay of Gold by Cupellation.
This process is divided into five operations.
Cupellation. Either 6 or 12 grains of the
alloy is the weight usually taken for the assay,
to which is added 16 parts of lead for every 1
part of copper that it is presumed to contain,
though considerably more lead may be used
when the sample does not contain any silver ;
but if the reverse be the case, an excess of
lead would tend to the loss of the latter
metal, which ought not to be separated until
the operation of parting. When silver is
present an additional allowance of lead, equal
to i*a of its weight, is made on that account.
"When, however, the quantity of silver is
small, or is not required to be estimated, it
becomes of little consequence what weight of
lead is employed, so long as enough be used
to carry off the base metals, fit the same time
that the quantity is not too large for the
cupel. The sample is then submitted to cu-
pellation. This process does not require so
much care for gold as silver, as none of this
metal is absorbed by the cupel, or lost by
evaporation, and i.t will safely bear the high-
st heat of the furnace without injury. In
other respects the operation may be conduct-
ed in exactly the same manner as for silver.
(See No. 3206.)
Quartation. After gold has passed thp
cupel, it may still retain either of the other
perfect metals, particularly silver. To re-
move the latter it undergoes the operations
of quartation and parting. Quartatiou is
294,
GOLD.
performed by adding 3 parts of silver to one
of the cupelled sample, and fusing them to-
gether, by which the gold is reduced to one
fourth of the mass, or even less; hence the
name. In this state nitric acid will dissolve
out the silver, which brings us to the next
operation. In many cases the operation of
quartation is performed conjointly with that
of cupellation.
Parting. The alloy of gold and silver
formed by quartation is next hammered or
rolled out into a thin strip or leaf, curled up
into a spiral form, and submitted to the ac-
tion of nitric acid, specific gravity 1.3, dilu-
ted with half its weight of water ; this being
poured off, another quantity of acid, of about
1.26, and undiluted, may be employed. In
each case the acid should be boiled upon the
alloy for about a quarter of an hour. In the
first case the quantity of fluid should be about
2£ ounces, and in the second li ounces. The
second part of the operation of parting is
called the reprise. If the acid be used too
strong it leaves the gold in a state of powder,
otherwise the metal preserves its form
throughout the process of parting. It is next
carefully collected, washed, and dried.
Annealing. The sample of pure gold has
now only to be annealed, which is done by
putting it into a small porous crucible, and
heating it to redness in the muffle.
Weighing. The pure gold is next accurate-
ly weighed. This weight doubled (if 12
grains are under assay), or quadrupled (if 6
grains), gives the number of carats fine of the
alloy examined, without calculation. The
loss of weight by cupellation gives the
amount of copper in the sample; that after
parting, the amount of silver, deducting, of
course, the weight of silver used in the pro-
cess, which is called the witness. "When
the sample contains but very little gold, the
dry method of assaying cannot be depended
on, and chemical analysis must be had re-
course to. (Cooley.)
3192. Assay of Gold by Chemical
Analysis. The richness of gold in any sub-
stance, whether liquid or solid, especially
where the quantity is small, is most easily
obtained by chemical analysis. The gold is
thrown down from its sohition by adding a
solution of protosulphate of iron ; the precip-
itate, after being washed, dried and gently
heated, may be weighed as pure gold.
If 100 grains of the substance or liquid
under test be taken for examination, the
weight in grains of the dried precipitate will
give the percentage of gold contained in the
sample.
3193. To Obtain Gold Chemically
Pure. Dissolve gold in nitromuriatic acid
(a mixture of 1 part nitric acid with 2 parts
muriatic acid, and called aquaregia); by add-
ing to the gold solution a solution of proto-
sulphate of iron, the pure gold is precipitated
in the form of a brown powder, which should
be thoroughly washed to free it from acid,
and then dried. In this form it is ready to
mix by fusion with other metals ; or the pow-
der can be reduced to solid metallic form by
melting in a crucible, with a charcoal fire,
sprinkling occasionally into the crucible a
little saltpetre and potash as a flux. The
gold will form a button at the bottom.
3194. Grain Gold. Cupelled gold, 1
part ; silver, 3 parts ; melt and pour in a small
stream into water; dissolve out the silver
with nitric acid, and heat the grains to red-
ness. Used to make preparations of gold.
3195. Liquid Gold. Agitate ether
with a solution of terchloride of gold for some
time, allow it to repose, and decant the su-
pernatant portion. • Naphtha and essential
oils possess the same property as ether, of
taking gold from its solutions. This liquid
was formerly held in great esteem as a cor-
dial medicine. It is now only employed for
writing on steel, gilding, &c. As it dries,
it leaves a coating of pure gold. (See No.
3585.)
3196. To Make Watch Hands Bed.
Mix to a paste over a lamp, 1 ounce carmine,
1 ounce chloride of silver, and k ounce tinners'
japan. Put some of the paste on the hands,
and lay them face upwards on a sheet of cop-
per, holding it over a spirit lamp until the de-
sired color appears on them.
3197. French Method for Coloring
Gold. A solution is made of 2 parts nitre,
1 part Roman alum, and 1 of sea salt. The
jewels or articles of gold are kept in the solu-
tion at a boiling point for from 15 to 25 min-
utes ; and then washed in water. The surface
of the gold is dull, but perfectly uniform, and
ready for burnishing.
3198. To Color Gold. Take 1 part
salt, 1 part alum, and 2 parts saltpetre ; each
material to be well pounded separately in a
•mortar; put them into an iron pot with J
pint water, and heat slowly over a fire: boil
gently and stir with an iron rod until it rises.
It is then ready for the reception of the ar-
ticles to be colored, which must be not less
than 18 carat fine. They are suspended in
the color by 18 carat wire, and kept in motion
till the liquid begins to sink, then taken out
and dipped in aquafortis pickle. The color
liquid will rise again, and then another dip,
and sometimes two, may be necessary to give
the articles the proper color. This process of
coloring is no more than taking from the sur-
face the inferior metals, leaving a thin coating
of pure gold ; its application should not be
too long continued, as it also dissolves a
small portion of the gold.
3199. Gold Coloring Solution. Take
1 ounce nitrate of soda, and i ounce chloride
of sodium, and dissolve in a slight excess of
warm water, afterwards adding to the solu-
tion about 5 drachms hydrochloric acid.
The solution should be kept boiling while the
work is in it.
3200. To Clean Gold after it is
Soldered. Put it through the same process
as silver (see No. 3222), but, instead of alum-
water, boil it in wine and sal-ammoniac.
3201. To Restore the Color of Gold
after Soldering. Boil the gold, after sol-
dering, in diluted oil of vitriol ; rinse in clean
water, polish with Tripoli mixed in oil (sweet
oil is best), wash and gloss with crocus on a
clean cloth.
3202. To Clean Gold. Dissolve a
little muriate of ammonia in urine; boil your
soiled gold therein, and it will become clean
and brilliant.
3203. To Clean Gold Ornaments.
Gold ornaments may also be thoroughly
SILVEE.
295
cleaned by immersion for a few seconds in a
weak solution of ammonia. Then wash with
soap and water.
3201. Polishing Powder for Gold
Articles. Dr. \V. Hofrnan has analyzed a
polishing powder sold by gold -workers in
Germany, which always commands a very
high price, and hence, it may be inferred, is
well adapted for the purpose. He found it to
be a very simple composition, being, a mix-
ture of about 70 per cent, sesquioxide of iron
(iron rust) and 30 per cent, sal-ammoniac.
To prepare it, protochloride of iron, obtained
by dissolving iron in hydrochloric acid, is
treated with liquid ammonia until a precipi-
tate is no longer formed. The precipitate is
collected on a filter, and, without washing, is
dried at such a temperature that the adhering
sal-ammoniac shall not be volatilized. The
protoxide of iron precipitate at first becomes
charged with sesquioxide.
SilVGI*. This metal has a very white
color, a high degree of lustre, is exceed-
ingly malleable and ductile, and the best con-
ductor of heat and electricity known. It is
procured from its ores chiefly by amalgama-
tion and cupellation. Its specific gravity is
10.474, and melting-point 1873° Fahr., or
bright redness. It is soluble in nitric acid,
and in sulphuric acid by the aid of heat. Its
surface is rapidly tarnished by sulphuretted
hydrogen, and by the fumes of sulphur.
3203. Assay of Silver by Cupellation.
The assay pound (usually 12 or 20 grains for
silver) of the alloy for examination is accu-
rately weighed, and then wrapped in a small
piece of paper ready to undergo the process
of cupellation. (See No. 3191.) The quan-
tity of lead used is not uniform, but depends
on the nature of the alloy. It should be 16
times the weight of the copper presumed to
be present in the sample. This, however,
cannot bo accurately ascertained, though an
experienced assayer is generally able to guess
very nearly the amount. If too much lead
be used, the button obtained by cupellation
will be too small, owing to some of the silver
being absorbed by the cupel ; and if too little
be used, the button will come out too large,
from still containing some copper. The im-
portance of justly proportioning the lead to
the quantity of copper present in the alloy,
cannot bo too much insisted on. (Cooley),
3207. Assay of Silver by Chemical
Analysis. Dissolve 10 grains of the alloy
in 100 grains of nitric acid, specific gravity
1.23, by the aid of heat; the solution being
made in a tall stoppered glass tube, furnished
with a foot; then place it in a very delicate
balance, which must be brought into an exact
state of equilibrium, and add the test solution
(see No. 3203) gradually and cautiously, until
the whole of the silver bo thrown down ; but
the utmost care must be taken not to exceed
this point. The number of grains now re-
quired to restore the equilibrium of the scales
give^ the exact quantity of pure silver present
in 1000 parts of the sample. The addition of
th3 test liquor to the solution requires the
utmost exactness. After each addition the
stopper should be placed in the tube, and the
latter violently agitated for a short time, when
the liquor will rapidly clear and enable it to
be seen when the operation is concluded. AVe
must then, as a check, add a small quantity
of a solution of nitrate of silver to the liquor
in the tube, after having first carefully taken
the weight. If too much of the test liquor
has been added, this will produce a fresh pre-
cipitate, and the assay cannot then be de-
pended on. Instead of weighing the quantity
of test liquor used, a tube graduated into
100 parts, and holding 1000 grains, may bo
used instead, every division of which required
to throw down the silver, will represent the
Tl0th of a grain. The tube being filled to the
0, is ready for use, and from being graduated
downward the quantity poured out may at
once bo read oif. Generally speaking, how-
ever, measuring does not admit of the same
accuracy as weighing. The termination of
the operation is clearly marked, when, on
adding a minute quantity of the test liquor
to the silver solution, no cloudiness occurs.
3208. Test Solution for Assaying Sil-
ver. Dissolve 54£ grains pure sea-salt (see
No. 3209) in 22 ounces 320f grains (avoirdu-
pois) distilled water. Filter and keep in a
stoppered bottle for use.
3209. Pure Sea-Salt. Boil together
for a few minutes, in a glass vessel, a solution
of salt with a little pure bicarbonate of soda ;
filter; add muriatic acid until the liquor be
neutral to litmus and turmeric paper ; then
evaporate and crystallize.
3210. To Extract Silver from Lead.
This is easily done in a small way by melting
the mixed metals by a strong heat in the open
air.. The lead will be converted into litharge,
and the silver will sink to the bottom of the
crucible. On a large scale, the silver is ex-
tracted from the lead by the oxidation of tho
lead into a reverberatory furnace of a particu-
lar construction. A shallow vessel, called a
cupel, is filled with ashes, well packed and
pounded down, and a cavity cut out for tho
reception of the nozzle of a bellows, through
which air is forcibly driven. "When the fire is
lighted and the lead is in a state of fusion
from tho reverberation of the flame, the blast
from the bellows is made to play forcibly on
the surface, and m a short time a crust of
oxide of lead or litharge is formed and driven
off to the side of the cupel opposite^ to the
mouth of the bellows, where a shallow aper-
ture is made for it to pass over; another crust
of litharge is formed and driven off, and this
is repeated until nearly all the lead has been
scorified and blown aside. The complete
separation of the lead is indicated by the ap-
pearance of a brilliant lustre on the convex
surface of the melted mass in the cupel, which
is occasioned by tho removal of the last crust
of litharge which covered the silver. If the
silver thus abstracted is not sufficiently pure,
it is further refined in a reverberatory furnace,
being placed in a cupel lined with bone ashes
and exposed to an intense heat, so that the
lead which escaped oxidation by the first
process is converted into litharge, and is
absorbed by the ashes of the cupel.
3211. Test for Metallic Silver. The
compounds of silver, mixed with carbonate of
soda, and exposed on charcoal to the inner
flame of a blow-pipe, afford white, brilliant,
296
SILVER.
and ductile metallic globules, without any
incmstation of the charcoal. (See also As-
saying.)
3212. To Obtain Pure Silver. Pure
silver is obtained by placing a copper rod in a
solution of nitrate of silver, digesting the
precipitate in caustic ammonia, and washing
with water; or by boiling recently precipitated
and still moist chloride of silver in a bright
iron vessel along wi th water. ( See No. 3536. )
3213. Solvent for Silver. Kitro-
sulphuric acid. Dissolve 1 part nitre in 10
parts oil of vitriol. Used for dissolving the
silver from plated goods, &c. It dissolves
silver at a temperature below 200°, and
scarcely acts upon copper, lead, and iron, un-
less diluted. (See Nos. 3716, 3720, and 3721.)
The silver is precipitated from the solution,
after moderately diluting it, by common salt,
and the chloride reduced as directed in Kos.
3214 and 3215.
3214. To Purify and Reduce Silver.
Silver, as used in 'the arts and coinage, is al-
loyed with a portion of copper. To purify it,
dissolve the metal in nitric acid slightly dilu-
ted, and add common salt, which throws down
the whole of the silver in the form of chloride.
To reduce it into a metallic- state several
methods are used. The chloride must be re-
peatedly washed with distilled water, and
placed in a zinc cup ; a little diluted sulphuric
acid being added, the chloride is soon reduced.
The silver, when thoroughly washed, is quite
pure. In the absence of a zinc cup, a porce-
lain cup containing a zinc plate may be used.
The process is expedited by warming the cup.
(See No. 3536.)
3215. To Purify and Reduce Silver.
Proceed as above, and digest the washed
chloride -frith pure copper and -ammonia.
The quantity of ammonia need not be suffi-
cient to dissolve the chloride. Leave the
mixture for a day, then wash the silver thor-
oughly. Or: Boil the washed and moist
chloride in solution of pure potash, adding a
little sugar ; when washed it is quite pure.
3216. Peale's Method of Obtaining
Pure Silver from its Solutions. By
adding in excess, a saturated solution of com-
mon salt to the solution of nitrate of silver,
the metal is thrown down, as an insoluble
salt, the chloride of silver. The precipitate
must then be carefully washed until it is en-
tirely freed from the presence of nitric acid.
Granulated zinc must then be added to the
chloride, and stirred through the mass. The
finer the zinc has been granulated, the more
rapid will be the reduction. Dilute sulphuric
acid must also be added, and the whole stirred
until the reduction is complete, which will
bo known by the entire disappearance of the
white chloride, and its conversion into a grey
powder. A new set of affinities takes place
with great rapidity in this combination, and
the chlorine is liberated from the silver, which
takes its metallic form, as above stated, in the
appearance of a grey powder. The zinc,
having been added in excess, must now be
removed by the addition of dilute sulphuric
acid ; after all action has ceased, the solution
of zinc must be decanted, or drawn off with a
syphon, and the silver washed until free from
acidulous matter, after which it may be dried
by pressure, or the simple application of heat
in a pan over the fire, when it will be ready
for melting, with the usual fluxes, or re-solu-
tion with nitric acid. This process is rapid
and easy; is not subject to loss; it will yield,
in the terms of trade, pure silver, of a quality
from 994 to 998 thousandths fine, and is there-
fore well adapted to the preparation of pure
nitrate of silver for the use of photographers
and all others who need a reliable article.
3217. Silver Dust. Take silver, dis-
solve it in slightly diluted nitric acid, and
precipitate it with slips of bright copper;
wash the powder in spirits, and dry it. Or:
An exceedingly fine silver dust may be ob-
tained by boiling recently precipitated chloride
of silver with water acid'ulated with sulphuric
acid, and zinc.
3218. To Frost Polished Silver. To
produce a frosted surface on polished silver,
use cyanide of potassium with a brush. The
silver should not be handled during the pro-
cess, but held with pliers made of lance-
wood or boxwood. The proportion should
be 1 ounce dissolved in % pint of water. It is
very poisonous.
3219. To Oxidize Silver. A very
beautiful effect is produced upon the surface
of silver articles, technically termed oxidizing,
which gives the surface an appearance of pol-
ished steel. This can be easily effected by
taking a little chloride of platinum, prepared
as described in the next receipt, heating the
solution and applying it to the silver when an
oxidized surface is required, and allowing the
solution to dry upon the silver. The darkness
of the color produced varies according to the
strength of the platinum solution, from a
light steel gray to nearly black. The effect of
this process, when combined with what is
termed dead work, is very pretty, and may be
easily applied to medals, giving scope for the
exercise of taste. The high appreciation in
which ornaments in oxidized silver are now
held, render a notice of the process followed
interesting. There are two distinct shades in
use — one produced by chloride, which has a
brownish tint, and the other by sulphur,
which has a blueish-black tint. To produce
the former, it is only necessary to wash the
article with a solution of sal-ammoniac ; a
much more beautiful tint may, however, be
obtained by employing a solution composed
of equal parts of sulphate of copper and sal-
ammoniac in vinegar. The fine black tint
may be produced by a slightly warm solution
of sulphuret of potassium or sodium. (Dr.
Ellsner.)
3220. To Prepare Nitro-Muriate
(Chloride) of Platinum. The nitro-muriate
of platinum is easily prepared : Take 1 part
nitric acid, and 2 parts hydrochloric (muriatic)
acid ; mix together and add a little platinum ;
keep the whole at or near a boiling heat ; the
metal is then dissolved, forming the solution
required.
3221. To Make a Silver Tree. Dis-
solve 20 grains nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce
of water in a phial, and add £ drachm pure
mercury. Arrange the zinc as for the lead
tree. Very brilliant and beautiful.
3222. To Clean Silver after it is Sol-
dered. Make it just red hot, and let it cool;
then boil it in alum water, in an earthen
vessel, and it will be as clean as when new.
SILVER
297
3223. Belgian Burnishing Powder. 3229. Plate Cleaning Powder. For
A burnishing powder in use in Belgium is j cleaning silver and plated articles, <fcc. Mix J
.composed of | pound fine chalk, 3 ounces pound jeweler's rouge with £ pound .prepared
pipe clay, 2 ounces white lead, f ounce mag- chalk. Or : i pound levigated putty powder,
nesia (carbonate), and the same quantity of k pound burnt hartshorn, 1 pound prepared
jeweler's rouge. chalk, and 1 ounce rose-pink.
3224. To Protect Silver-Ware from j 3230. To Clean Silver. To clean sil-
Tarnishing. The loss of silver which re- 1 ver, mix 2 tea-spoonfuls of ammonia in a
suits from the impregnation of our atmosphere quart of^hot soap-suds. Put in the silver-
with sulphur compounds, especially where
gas is burned, is very great. Silversmiths
may thank one of their confraternity — Mr.
Strolberger, of Munich — for a happy thought.
He seems to have tried various plans to save
his silver, if possible. He covered his goods
with a clear white varnish, but found that it
soon turned yellow in the window, and spoiled
the look of his wares. Then he tried water-
glass (solution of silicate of potash), but this
did not answer. He tried some other solu-
tions, to no purpose ; but at last he hit upon
the expedient of coating his goods over with
a thin coating of collodion, which he found
to answer periectly. No more loss of silver,
and no longer incessant labor in keeping it
clean. The plan he adopts is this : He first
warms the articles to be coated, and then
paints them over carefully with a thinnish
collodion diluted with alcohol, using a wide
soft brush for the purpose. Generally, he
eays, it is not advisable to do them over more
than once. Silver goods, he tells us, protected
in this way, have been exposed in his window
more than a year, and are as bright as ever,
while others unprotected have become perfect-
ly black in a few months.
3225. To Prevent Coins and Small
Ornaments from Tarnishing. All orna-
ments, whether gold or silver, can be kept
from tarnishing if they are carefully covered
from the air in box- wood sawdust, which will
also dry them after being washed. The tarnish
on silver-ware is most often due to sulphur.
A gentleman who wears a silver watch finds
that it is tarnished from the sulphur fumes of
the rubber ring which holds together his ferry
tickets. Sulphur fumes enough get into the
air to account for all ordinary cases of tar-
nishing.
3226. To Clean Silver.
Immerse for
half an hour the silver article into a solution
made of 1 gallon water, 1 pound hyposulphite
of soda, 8 ounces muriate of ammonia. 4 oun-
ces liquid ammonia, and 4 ounces cyanide of
potassium; but, as the latter substance is
poisonous, it can be dispensed with if neces-
sary. The article, being taken out of the
solution, is washed, and rubbed with a wash
leather.
3227. To Clean Silver Plate. Fill a
large saucepan with water; put into it 1
ounce carbonate of potash and i pound whi-
ting. Now put in all the spoons, forks, and
small plate, and boil them for 20 minutes ;
after which take the saucepan off the fire and
allow the liquor to become cold ; then take
each piece out and polish with soft leather.
A soft brush must be used to clean the em-
bossed and engraved parts.
3228. Plate Boiling Powder. Mix
equal parts of cream of tartar, common salt,
and alum. A little of this powder, added to
the water in which silver-plate is boiled, gives
to it a silvery whiteness.
ware and wash it, using an old nail-brush or
tooth-brush for the purpose.
3231. To Clean Silver and Silver
Plated Articles. Boil 1 ounce finely pow-
dered and calcined hartshorn in 1 quart water,
and while on the fire, insert the articles, as
many as the vessel will hold ; leaye them in
a short time, then take them out, and dry
them over a fire ; when all the articles have
been thus treated, piit into the solution clean
woolen rags ; when they are saturated, hang
them up to dry. These will be excellent for
polishing the silver, as well as for cleaning
brass door-knobs, &c.
3232. To Preserve the Polish on
Silver. "Wash it twice a week (if in daily
use) with soft soap and hot water, and polish
with Canton flannel. (See next receipt.)
3233. To Clean Silver Ornaments.
Boil them in soft soap and water for five
minutes ; then put them in a basin with the
same hot soap and water, and scrub them
gently with a very soft brush while hot ; then
rinse and dry with a linen rag. Heat a piece
of common unglazed earthenware, or a piece
of brick or tile in the fire ; take it off, and
place the ornaments upon it for the purpose
of drying them, and causing every particle of
moisture to evaporate; as the moisture,
which otherwise would remain on the silver,
will cause it to tarnish, or assume a greenish
hue.
3234. To Clean Silver. Moisten
some finely powdered whiting or Paris white
with spirits of hartshorn, rub the silver into
it, let it dry, then rub it off with a soft cloth
and polish it with chamois leather. Some
kinds of silver soap keep silver looking nicely,
but many of them are chemical compounds
that injure the silver.
3235. To Clean Silver Plate. Whit-
ing finely powdered and moistened with a
little sweet oil is excellent to clean silver.
Let the mixture dry on, then rub it off with a
soft linen cloth and polish with chamois
leather. This gives silver a beautiful white
appearance, and if well done the silver will
keep clean a long time.
3236. To Remove Ink Stains from
Silver. The tops and other portions of
silver inkstands frequently become deeply
discolored with ink, which is difficult to re-
move by ordinary means. It may, however,
be completely eradicated by making a little
chloride of lime into a paste with water, and
rubbing it upon the stains.
3237. To Remove Dark Stains from
Silver. A certain remedy for the most in-
veterate stains that are sometimes to be seen
on teaspoons and other silver ware, is to pour
a little sulphuric acid into a saucer, wet with
it a soft linen rag, and rub it on the blackened
silver till the stain disappears. Then coat
the articles with whiting finely powdered and
sifted, and mixed with whiskey or spirits of
298
COPPER.
wine. 'When the whiting has dried on, and
rested a quarter of an hour or more, wipe it
with a silk handkerchief, and polish with a
soft buckskin.
3238. To Remove Egg Stains from
Spoons. To remove the stains on spoons,
caused by using them for boiled eggs, take a
little common salt moist between the thumb
and finger, and briskly rub the stain, which
will soon disappear. Then wash.
3239. To Clean Gold, Silver, and Cop-
per Coin for Numismatic Collections.
Make a weak solution of cyanide of potassium
and bathe the coin in it for 2 or 3 seconds, then
immediately wash it with a very fine brush, in
soap-suds ; .rinse in clean cold water, and dry
in boxwood saw dust. This receipt is partic-
ularly good for fine proof corns. Be careful
not to let the coins remain in the solution
longer than the time specified, otherwise they
may have a frosted appearance. (See No.
2167.) As the cyanide of potassium is a very
deadly poison, great care must be taken by
the operator not to use it unless his hands are
entirely free from scratches. This solution
may also be used for cleaning fine copper
coins, but care must be taken not to use the
mixture that has previously been employed
for cleaning silver, or a coating of the latter
metal may be the consequence. (See Nos.
3224 and 3225.)
Silver coins are often covered with a dense
green oxide. To remove this they should be
steeped for 10 minutes in a solution of am-
monia, then immersed in water and wiped
with a soft towel ; if necessary, a fresh
quantity of the solution may be applied.
Copper coin may be cleaned by immersing in
pure sweet oil and wiping dry with a soft
rag.
Copper. This metal is found in the
metallic state, and in combination with
oxygen, sulphur, acids, and other minerals,
and in the organic kingdom, in the ashes of
plants, and in the blood of animals. The
copper of commerce is principally prepared
from copper pyrites, a mixed sulphuret of
iron and copper, found in Cornwall and other
parts of the world. Copper is only prepared
from its ores on the large scale. The copper
pyrites are first roasted, and then smelted, by
which process coarse metal is produced ; this
is again submitted to calcination and smelt-
ing, when fine metal is obtained. It after-
wards undergoes the process of refining and
toughening. This metal is malleable and
ductile. It has a specific gravity of 8.8 to
8.9, fuses at about 2000° Pahr., and volatilizes
at higher temperatures. It is easily soluble
in nitric acid, and is attacked more or less
rapidly by acids in general. It forms numer-
ous compounds, all of which are more or less
poisonous. Exposure to a damp atmosphere
produces on its surface a green colored oxide,
known as verdigris. Copper may be readily
alloyed with other metals, except iron and
lead, with which it unites with difficulty.
3241. Test for the Quantity of Copper
in a Compound. The quantity of copper
present in any compound may be estimated
by throwing it down from its solution by pure
potassa, after which it must be carefully
collected, washed, dried, ignited, and weighed.
This will give the quantity of the oxide from
which its equivalent of metallic copper may
be calculated; every 5 parts of the former
being nearly equal to 4 of the latter; or, more
accurately, every 39.7 parts are equal to 31.7
of pure metallic copper. Copper may also be
precipitated at once in the metallic state, by
immersing a piece of polished steel into the
solution ; but this method will not give very
accurate results.
3242. To Separate Lead from Cop-
per. Copper may be separated from lead by
adding sulphuric acid to the nitric solution,
and evaporating to dryness, when water
digested on the residuum will dissolve out
the sulphate of copper, but leave the sulphate
of lead behind. From this solution the oxide
of copper may be thrown down as before.
3243. To Separate Zinc from Copper.
Copper may be separated from zinc by sul-
phuretted hydrogen, which will throw down a
sulphuret of copper, which may be dissolved
in nitric acid, and treated as in last receipt.
3244. To Separate Tin from Copper.
Digest in nitric acid ; the copper will be dis-
solved, but the tin will remain in an insoluble
peroxide.
3245. To Separate Silver from Cop-
per. Digest, in a state of filings or powder,
in a solution of chloride of zinc, which dis-
solves the copper and leaves the silver un-
changed.
3246. To Separate Copper from its
Alloys. Copper may be separated in abso-
lute purity from antimony, arsenic, bismuth,
lead, iron, <fcc., as it exists in bell-metal, brass,
bronze, and other commercial alloys, by
fusing, for about half an hour, in a crucible,
10 parts of the metal with 1 part each of cop-
per scales (black oxide), and bottle glass.
The pure copper is found at the bottom of
the crucible, whilst the other metals or impuri-
ties are either volatilized or dissolved in the
flux.
3247. Copper in Fine Powder. A
solution of sulphate of copper is heated to the
boiling-point, and precipitated with sublima-
ted zinc. (See No. 30.) The precipitated cop-
per is then separated from the adherent zinc
by diluted sulphuric acid, and dried by expo-
sure to a moderate temperature.
3248. Reduction of Copper in Fine
Powder. M. Schiff gives the following pro-
cess for obtaining copper in a state of fine
division: A saturated solution of sulphate of
copper, together with some crystals of the
salt, are introduced into a bottle or flask, and
agitated with some granulated zinc. The
zinc displaces the copper from its solution,
fresh sulphate dissolving as the action goes
on, until the whole is exhausted. Heat is
disengaged during the operation. The pre-
cipitated copper must be washed and dried
as rapidly as possible, to prevent oxidation.
3249.v Feather-Shot Copper. Melted
copper, poured in a small stream into cold
water. It forms small pieces, with a feathered
edge, hence the name. It is used to make
solution of copper.
3250. Welding Copper. A compound
of 358 parts phosphate of soda and 124 parts
boracic acid is prepared^ and is used when the
LEAD.
299
metal is at a dull red heat ; the heat is then
increased till the metal becomes of a cherry
red color, and the latter is at once hammered.
A hammer of wood is recommended for this
purpose, as the metal is liable to soften at a
high heat; and the hammer should be used
cautiously. All scale and carbonaceous mat-
ter must be removed from the surface of the
copper, as the success of the welding depends
on the formation of an easily fusible phosphate
of copper, which would be reduced to a phos-
phide by the presence of carbon.
3251. To Prevent the Corrosion of
Copper and Other Metals. The best
means of preventing corrosion of metals is to
dip the articles first into a very dilute nitric
acid, immerse them afterwards in linseed oil,
and allow the excess of oil to drain off. By
this process metals are effectually prevented
from rust or oxidation.
3252. To Clean Coppers and Tins.
These are cleaned with a mixture of rotten
stone, soft soap, and oil of turpentine, mixed
to the consistency of stiff putty. The stone
should be powdered very fine and sifted ; and
a quantity of the mixture may be made
sufficient to last for a long while. The
articles should first be washed with hot wa-
ter, to remove grease. Then a little of the
above mixture, mixed with water, should be
rubbed over the metal ; then rub off briskly,
with dry clean rag or leather, and a beautiful
polish will be obtained. When tins are much
blackened by the fire they should be scoured
with soap, water, and fine sand.
L68LQ. Lead is only prepared on the
large scale. It is usually extracted from
galena, a natural sulphuret of lead, by roast-
ing the ore in a reverberatory furnace, and
afterwards smelting it along with coal and
lime. Its specific gravity, in a state of abso-
lute purity, is 11.38 to 11.44, but ordinary
lead seldom exceeds 11.35. It melts at about
612° Fahr., and when very slowly cooled,
crystallizes in octohedrons. It is malleable
and ductile, but devoid of elasticity. Lead is
not dissolved by muriatic, sulphuric, or the
vegetable acids, unless by free contact with
air, and then very slowly: but nitric acid
rapidly oxidizes it, forming a solution of ni-
trate of lead. Pure water, put into a leaden
vessel, and exposed to the air, soon corrodes
it, and dissolves the newly-formed oxide ; but
river and spring water exert no such influ-
ence, the carbonates and sulphates in such
water destroying its solvent power. Lead
may be alloyed with most metals, except
those which differ greatly from it in specific
gravity and melting point. It has a strong
affinity for gold and silver, and is therefore
employed to separate those metals, by cupel-
latiou, from other metals and minerals.
3254. Cautions on the Use of Lead
for Cisterns, &c. Ordinary water, which
abounds in mineral salts, may be safely kept
in leaden cisterns ; but distilled and rain
water, and water that contains scarcely any
saline matter, speedily corrode, and dissolve
a portion of lead, when kept in vessels of that
metal. When, however, leaden cisterns have
iron or zinc fastenings or braces, a galvanic
action is set up, the preservative power of
saline matter ceases, and the water speedily
becomes contaminated with lead. Water con-
taining free carbonic acid also acts on lead;
and this is the reason why the water of some ;
springs, kept in leaden cisterns, or raised by
leaden pumps, possesses unwholesome proper-
ties. Free carbonic acid is evolved during the
fermentation or decay of vegetable matter,
and hence "the propriety of preventing the
leaves of trees falling into water-cisterns
formed of lead.
3255. To Test the Richness of Lead
Ores. Lead ores, or galena, may be tested in
different ways. The wet way is as follows :
Digest 100 grains of the ore in sufficient nitric
acid diluted with a little water, apply heat to
expel any excess of acid, and largely dilute
the remainder with distilled water. Next
add dilute hydrochloric acid, by drops, as
long as it occasions a precipitate, and filter
the whole, after being moderately heated,
upon a small paper filter. Treat the filtered
liquid with a stream of sulphuretted hydro-
gen; collect the black precipitate, wash it,
and digest it in strong nitric acid ; when en-
tirely dissolved, precipitate the lead with
sulphuric acid dropped in it, evaporate the
precipitate to dryuess, the excess of sulphu-
ric acid being expelled by a rather strong heat
applied towards the end. The dry mass
should be washed, dried, and exposed to slight
ignition in a porcelain crucible. The resulting
dry sulphate is equal to .68 per cent, of its
weight in lead.
3256. To Find the Percentage of
Lead in Lead Ores. This can be done by
applying the test in the wet way (see No.
3255), and multiplying the weight of the pro-
duct obtained in grains by .68. It may also
be found in the dry way, as follows : Plunge
a conical wrought iron crucible into a blast
furnace, raised to as high a heat as possible ;
when the crucible has become of a dull red
heat, introduce into it 1000 grains galena
(lead ore) reduced to powder, and stir it
gently with a piece of stiff iron wire flattened
at the end. This wire must never be suffered
to get red hot. To prevent the ore from adher-
ing, after 3 or 4 minutes, cover up the cruci-
ble; and when at a full cherry-red heat, add 2
or 3 spoonfuls of reducing flux (see No. 3464),
and bring to a full white heat; in 12 to 15
minutes, after having scraped down the
scoria, etc., from the sides of the crucible,
into the melted mass, the crucible should be
removed from the fire, and the contents tilted
into a small brass mould, observing to run
out the metal free from scoria, by raking the
latter back with a piece of green wood. The
scoria is then reheated in the crucible with i
spoonful of flux, and this second reduction
added to the first. The weight in grains of
the metal obtained, divided by 10, gives the
percentage of metallic lead in the sample of
ore.
3257. To Make a Lead Tree. Dissolve
1 ounce sugar of lead (acetate of lead) in 1J
pints distilled water; add a few drops of
acetic acid; place the liquid in a clear white
glass bottle and suspend a piece of zinc in it
by means of a fine thread secured to the cork.
3OO
IE ON.
Iron. Iron is only prepared on the
large scale. It is obtained by smelting
the ore along with coke and a flux (either
limestone or clay). The crude iron thus ob-
tained is run into moulds, and then consti-
tutes cast iron or pig iron. By the subse-
quent process of refining, (puddling, welding,)
it is converted into soft iron or wrought iron.
The properties and uses of iron are too well
known to require description. Its applica-
tions in almost every branch of human indus-
try are almost infinite. It is remarkably
ductile, and possesses great tenacity, but it is
less malleable than many of the other metals.
Its specific gravity is 7.788, and melts at
about 2700° Fahr. It is the hardest of all of
the malleable and ductile metals, and when
. combined with carbon or silica (steel), ad-
mits of being tempered to almost any degree
of hardness or elasticity. Metallic iron is
distinguished by being attracted by the mag-
net; by being dissolved by dilute muriatic
and sulphuric acids, with solution of hydro-
gen gas, recognized by its inflammability; and
the solution exhibits the usual reactions of
protoxide of iron. (Cooley.) Iron does not
alloy easily with other metals, principally on
account of its high melting point. It is easily
attacked by acids, and requires protection
from the air, to prevent oxidization or rust-
ing.
3259. To Estimate the Percentage of
Iron in Ores. Prepare a crucible of refrac-
tory clay by pressing into it successive layers
of moistened powdered charcoal until full and
solid; clear out a cavity by removing the
central portion. Take 200 grains of the
powdered ore, and mix it with the same
weight of dry slacked lime, and 50 grains char-
coal ; if necessary a litte carbonate of soda
may be used with very refractory ores; in-
troduce this mixtiire into the crucible and
lute it up. Expose the crucible to a moderate
heat until the contents of the crucible are
dry, then apply, and maintain for half an
hour the full heat of a blast furnace. Then
remove the crucible, tap it steadily on the
edge of the furnace, so as to bring the metal-
lic portion of its contents together at the bot-
tom; and, when cool, break the crucible
open. The iron will be found in a clean but-
ton at the bottom of the slag. Clean the iron
with a scratch brush, and weigh it. Its weight,
divided by 2, will give the percentage of rich-
ness of the ore under examination.
3260. To Distinguish Wrought and
Cast Iron from Steel. Eisner produces a
bright surface by polishing or filing, and ap-
plies a drop of nitric acid, which is allowed
to remain there for one or two minutes, and
is then washed off with water. The spot
will then look a pale ashy gray on wrought
iron, a brownish black on steel, a deep black
on cast iron. It is the carbon present in va-
rious proportions which produces the differ-
ence in appearance.
3261. To Impart to Cast Iron the
Appearance of Bronze. The article to be
so treated is first cleaned with great care, and
then coated with a uniform film of some veg-
etable oil ; this done, it is exposed in a fur-
nace to the action of a high temperature,
which, however, must not be strong enough
to carbonize the oil. In this way the cast
iron absorbs oxygen at the moment the oil is
decomposed, and there is formed at the sur-
face a thin coat of brown oxide, which ad-
heres very strongly to the metal, and will
admit of a high polish, giving it quite the ap-
pearance of the finest bronze.
3262. Brown Tint for Iron and Steel.
Dissolve in 4 parts of water, 2 parts crystal-
lized chloride of iron, 2 parts chloride of anti-
mony, and 1 part gallic acid, and apply the
solution with a sponge or cloth to the. article,
and dry it in the air. Repeat this any number
of times according the depth of color which
it is desired to produce. Wash with water,
and dry, and finally rub the articles over with
boiled linseed oil. The metal thus receives
a brown tint and resists moisture. The
chloride of antimony should be as little acid
as possible.
3263. To Blue Gun Barrels. Apply
nitric acid and let it eat into the iron a little ;
then the latter will be covered with 'a thin
film of oxide. Clean the barrel, oil, and bur-
nish.
3264. To Ornament Gun Barrels. A
very pretty appearance is given to gun bar-
rels by treating them with dilute nitric acid
and vinegar, to which has been added sul-
phate of copper. The metallic copper is de-
posited irregularly over the iron surface.
Wash, oil, and rub well with a hard brush.
3265. Iron Filings. The only way to
obtain them pure, is to act on a piece of soft
iron with a file.
3266. To Remove Bust from Iron.
We have never seen any iron so badly scaled
or incrusted with oxide, that it could not* be
cleaned with a solution of 1 part sulphuric
acid in 10 parts water. Paradoxical as it may
seem, strong sulphuric acid will not attack
iron with anything like the energy of a solu-
tion of the same. On withdrawing the arti-
cles from the acid solution they should be
dipped in a bath of hot lime water, and held
there till they become so heated that they
will dry immediately when taken out. Then,
if they are rubbed with dry bran or sawdust,
there will be an almost chemically clean sur-
face left, to which zinc will adhere readily.
3267. To Keep Polished Iron Work
Bright. Common resin melted with a little
galhpoli oil and spirits of turpentine has been
found to answer very well for preserving pol-
ished iron work bright. The proportions
should be such .is to form a coating which
will adhere firmly, not chip off, and yet admit
of being easily detached by cautious scra-
ping.
3268. To Protect Iron from Oxidiza-
tion. Among the many processes and pre-
parations for preserving iron from the action
of the atmosphere, the following will be
found the most efficient in all cases where
gatvanization is impracticable ; and, being
unaffected by sea water, it is especially appli-
cable to the bottoms of iron ships, and marine'
work generally : Sulphur, 17 pounds ; caustio
potash lye of 36° Baume, 5 pounds ; and cop-
per filings, 1 pound. To be heated until the
copper and sulphur dissolve. Heat, in another
vessel, tallow, 750 pounds, and turpentine,
150 pounds, until the tallow is liquefied. Thw
compositions are to be mixed and stirred
STEEL.
301
together while hot, and may be laid on to the
iron, in the same way as paint.
3269. To Protect Iron from Bust.
A mastic or covering for this purpose, propos-
pd by M. Zeni, is as follows: Mix 80 parts
pounded brick, passed through a silk sieve,
with 20 parts litharge; the whole is then
rubbed up by the muller with linseed oil, so
as to form a'thick paint, which may be diluted
with spirits of turpentine. Before it is ap-
plied the iron should be well cleaned. From
an experience of 2 years upon locks exposed
to the air, and watered daily with salt water,
after being covered with 2 coats of this mastic,
the good effects of it have been thoroughly
proved.
3270. To Prevent the Decay of Iron
Bailings. Every one must have noticed the
destructive combination of lead and iron,
from railings being fixed in stone with the
former metal. The reason for this is, that
the oxygen of the atmosphere keeps up a
galvanic action between the two metals.
This waste may be prevented by substituting
zinc for lead, in which case the galvanic influ-
ence would be inverted; the whole of its
action would fall on the zinc; the one remain-
ing uninjured, the other nearly so. Paint
formed of the oxide of zinc, for the same
reason preserves iron exposed to the atmo-
sphere infinitely better than the ordinary paint
composed of the oxide of lead.
3271. To Scour Cast Iron, Zinc, or
Brass. Cast iron, zinc, and brass surfaces
can bo scoured with great economy of labor,
time and material, by using either glycerine,
steariue, naphthaline, or creosote, mixed with
dilute sulphuric acid.
3272. To Clean Steel and Iron. Make
1 ounce soft soap and 2 ounces emery into a
paste ; rub it on the article with wash-leather
and it will have a brilliant polish. Kerosene
oil will also clean steel.
Ste6l. The addition of a small quan-
tity of carbon greatly increases the hard-
ness and tenacity ot iron, and converts it into
steel. The amount of carbon to be added,
should be just that which will produce the
maximum of hardness and toughness, without
rendering it brittle; ordinary steel contains
about 1 per cent, of carbon ; hard steel 1.6 to
1.7 per cent. The percentage of carbon in
English steel is estimated by Berthier to be
1.87. It melts at about 2500° Fahr.
3274. To Convert Iron into Steel.
This is usually done by the process of cement-
ation, producing what is termed blistered
steel. At the bottom of a trough about 2 feet
square and 14 feet long, usually formed of
fire clay, is placed a layer, about 2 inches
thick, of a cement composed of 10 parts char-
coal and 1 part ashes and common salt; upon
this is laid a tier of thin iron bars about $
inch apart; between and over them, a layer
of cement is spread, then a second row of bars,
and so on, alternately, until the trough is
nearly full ; lastly a layer of cement covered
with moist sand and a close cover of fire-tiles,
so as to exclude the air. The trough is ex-
posed to the heat of a coal fire, until a full
red heat, about 2000° Fahr., is obtained and
kept up steadily for about 7 days. A hole is
left in the end of the trough, to allow of a bar
being drawn out for examination. "When a
bar, on being withdrawn and broken, has ac-
quired a crystalline texture, the metal is al-
lowed to cool down gradually, some days
being allowed for this, and the charge, when
cool, withdrawn from the trough. The bars
will be found covered with large blisters,
hence the name of the process, and increased
about rJtf in weight. The steel is now suffi-
ciently good for files and coarser tools, but
for finer instruments, several varieties of finer
steel are required. (Makins).
3275. To Make Shear-Steel. This is
produced by cutting up bars of blistered steel,
into lengths of 30 inches, and binding them
in bundles of 8 or 9 by a ring of steel, a rod
being fixed for a handle. These are brought
to a welding heat, and welded together under
a tilt hammer. The binding ring is then re-
moved; and, after reheating, the mass is
forged solid, and extended into a bar. In
cases where this operation is repeated, the
steel is called double-shear steel. (Makins. )
3276. To Make Cast-Steel. Cast-steel
is the best variety for all fine cutting tools.
This is a mixture of scraps of different va-
rieties of blistered steel, collected together in a
good refractory clay crucible ; upon this a
cover is luted, and it is exposed to an intense
heat in a blast furnace for 3 or 4 hours. The
contents are then run into moulds. After
being subjected to the blows of a tilt-hammer,
the cast steel is ready for use. (Makins).
3277. Steel Made from Iron Scraps.
Take iron scraps in small pieces, put 40 pounds
in a crucible, with 8 ounces charcoal, and 4
ounces black oxide of manganese ; expose the
whole li hours to a high heat, and run into
moulds.
3278. To Blue Steel. The mode em-
ployed in blueing steel is merely to subject it
to heat. The dark blue is produced at a tem-
perature of 600°, the full blue at 500°, and the
blue at 550°. The steel must be finely polish-
ed on its surface, and then exposed to a uni-
form degree of heat. Accordingly, there are
three ways of coloring : first, by a flame pro-
ducing no soot, as spirit of wine ; secondly,
by a hot plate of iron ; and thirdly, by wood
ashes. As a very regular degree of heat ia
necessary, wood ashes for fine work bear the
preference. The work must be covered over
with them, and carefully watched ; when the
color is sufficiently heightened, the work is
perfect. This color is occasionally taken off
.with a very dilute muriatic acid.
3279. 'To Blue Small Steel Articles.
Make a box of sheet iron, fill it with sand,
and subject it to a great heat. The articles
to be blued must be finished and well polished.
Immerse the articles in the sand, keeping
watch of them until they are of the right
color, when they should be taken out, and im-
mersed in oil.
3280. To Make Edge-Tools from
Cast-Steel and Iron. This method consists
in fixing a clean piece of wrought iron, brought
to a welding heat, in the centre of a mould,
and then pouring in melted steel, so as entirely
to envelop the iron; and then forging the
mass into the shape required.
302
STEEL.
3281. To Remove Scale from Steel.
Scale may be removed from steel articles by
pickling in water with a little sulphuric acid
in it, and when the scale is loosened, brushing
with sand and a stiff brush.
3282. To Restore Burnt Cast-Steel.
Take li pounds borax, J pound sal-ammoniac,
i pound prussiate of potash, 1 ounce resin.
Pound the above fine, add a gill each of water
and alcohol. Put in an iron kettle, and boil
until it becomes a paste. Do not boil too
long, or it will become hard on cooling.
3283. To Anneal Steel. For a small quan-
tity. Heat the steel to a cherry red in a char-
coal fire, then bury it in sawdust, in an iron
boz, covering the sawdust with ashes. Let
it stay until cold. For a larger quantity, and
when it is required to be very soft, pack the
steel with cast-iron (lathe or planer) chips in
an iron box, as follows : Having at least i or
£ inch in depth of chips in the bottom of box,
put in a layer of steel, then more chips to fill
spaces between the steel, and also the i or f
inch space between the sides of box and steel,
then more steel ; and, lastly, at least 1 inch
in depth of chips, well rammed down on top
of the steel. Heat to and keep at a red heat
for from 2 to 4 hours. Do not disturb the box
until cold.
3284. Engraving Mixture for "Wri-
ting on Steel. Sulphate of copper, 1 ounce ;
sal-ammoniac, i ounce ; pulverize separately,
adding a little vermilion to color it, and mix
with Ik ounces vinegar. Rub the steel with
soft soap and write with a clean hard pen,
without a slit, dipped in the mixture.
3285. Tempering Tools. The steel is
generally first hardened by heating it to a
cherry red, and then plunging it into cold wa-
ter. Afterward the temper is drawn by mod-
erately heating the steel again. Different de-
grees of hardness are required for different
purposes.
For very pale straw color, 430°, for lancets.
A shade of darker yellow, 450°, for razors
and surgical instruments.
Darker straw yellow, 470°, for pen-knives.
Still darker yellow, 490°, chisel for cutting
iron.
Brown yellow, 500°, axes and plane-irons.
Yellow, slightly tinged with purple, 520°,
table-knives and watch-springs.
3286. To Temper Drills. Heat the
best steel to a cherry red, and hammer until
nearly cold, forming the end. in tp the requisite
flattened shape, then heat it again to a cherry
red, and plunge it into a lump of resin or into
quicksilver. A solution of cyanide of po-
tassium in rain water is sometimes used for the
tempering plunge bath, but it is not as good as
quicksilver or resin.
3287. To Temper Gravers. These
may be tempered in the same way as drills ;
or the red hot instrument may be pressed
into a piece of lead, in which a hole about £
an inch deep has been cut to receive the
graver; the lead melting around and en-
closing it will give it an excellent temper.
3288. To Temper Spiral Springs.
Heat to a cherry red in a charcoal fire, and
harden in oil. To temper, blaze off the oil 3
times, the same as for flat springs.
3289. To Temper Old Files. Grind
out the cuttings on one side, until a bright
surface is obtained ; then damp the surface
with a little oil, and lay the file on a piece of
red-hot iron, bright side upwards. In about
a minute the bright surface will begin to turn
yellow; and when the yellow has deepened
to about the color of straw, plunge in cold
water.
3290. To Make Polished Steel Straw
Color or Blue. The surface of polished
steel acquires a pale straw color at 460°
Fahr., and a uniform deep blue at 580° Fahr.
3291. To Temper Mill Picks. After
working the steel carefully, prepare a bath
of lead heated to the boiling point, which will
be indicated by a slight agitation of the sur-
face. In it place the end of tine pick to the
depth of li inches, until heated to the tem-
perature of the lead, then plunge immediately
in clear cold water. The temper will be just
right, if the bath is at the temperature re-
quired. The principal requisities in making
mill picks are: First, get good steel. Second,
work it at a low heat; most blacksmiths in-
jure steel by overheating. Third, heat for
tempering without direct exposure to the fire.
The lead bath acts merely as protection against
the heat, which is almost always too great to
temper well.
3292. Bath for Hardening Mill Picks.
Take 2 gallons rain water, 1 ounce corrosive
sublimate, 1 of sal-ammoniac, 1 of saltpetre,
1^ pints rock salt. The picks should be heat-
ed to a cherry red, and cooled in the bath.
The salt gives hardness, and the other ingre-
dients toughness to the steel ; and they will
not break, if they are left without drawing the
temper.
329.3. Composition for Tempering
Cast-Steel Mill Picks. To 3 gallons of
water, add 3 ounces each nitric acid, spirits of
hartshorn, sulphate of zinc, sal-ammoniac,
and alum; 6 ounces salt, with a double hand-
ful of hoof-parings ; the steel to be heated a
dark cherry red. It must be kept corked
tight to prevent evaporation.
3294. Tempering Steel. Mr. N. P.
Ames, late of Chicopee, Mass., after expend-
ing much time and money in experiments,
found that the most successful means of tem-
pering swords and cutlasses that would stand
the United States Government test, was by
heating in a charcoal fire, hardening in pure
spring water, and drawing the temper in
charcoal flame. (See No. 3285.)
3295. To Straighten Hardened Steel.
To straighten a piece of steel already harden-
ed and tempered, heat it lightly, not enough
to draw the temper, and you may straighten
it on an anvil with a hammer, if really not
dead cold. It is best, however, to straighten
it between the centres of a lathe, if a turned
article, or on a block of wood with a mallet.
"Warm, it yields readily to the blows of the
mallet, but cold, it would break like glass.
3296. To Restore the Power of
Horseshoe Magnets. To restore horseshoe
magnets that have lost their power from dis-
use, proceed as with new ones. Place the
poles of the magnet to be charged, against
the poles of another, making opposite poles
meet. Then draw a piece of soft iron, placed
at right angles upon the magnet to be charged,
from the poles to the bend. Do this a number
of times on each side of the magnet. If the
STEEL.
SOS
magnet is of good steel, this produces a max-
imum power. It is the method of Jacobi,
and is considered one of the best.
3297. Case-Hardening is the operation
of giving a surface of steel to pieces of iron,
by which they are rendered capable of receiv-
ing great external hardness, while the interior
portion retains all the toughness of good
wrought-iron. This is accomplished by heat-
ing the iron in contact with animal carbon, in
close vessels. George Edo says: — The articles
intended to be case-hardened are put into the
box with animal carbon, and the box made
air-tight by luting it with clay. They are
then placed in the fire and kept at a light red
heat for any length of time, according to the
depth required. In half an hcrur after the
box and its contents have been heated quite
through, the hardness will scarcely be the
thickness of a half dime; in an hour, double;
and so forth, till the desired depth is acquired.
The box is then taken from the fire, and the
contents emptied into pure cold water. They
can then be taken out of the water and dried
(to keep them from rusting), by riddling them
in a sieve with some dry saw-dust ; and they
are then ready for polishing. Case-hardening
is a superficial conversion of iron into steel.
It is not always merely for economy that iron
is case-hardened, but for a multitude of things
it is preferable to steel, and answers the pur-
pose better. Delicate articles, to keep from
blistering while heating, may be dipped into
a powder of burnt leather, or bones, or other
coaly animal matter.
3298. To Case-Harden with Charcoal.
The goods, finished in every respect but pol-
ishing, are put into an iron box, and covered
with animal or vegetable charcoal, and ce-
mented at a red heat, for a period varying
with the size and description of the articles
operated on.
3299. Moxon's Method of Case-Hard-
ening. Cow's horn or hoof is to be baked
or thoroughly dried, and pulverized, in order
that more may bo got into the box with the
articles. Or bones reduced to dust answer the
same purpose. To this add an equal quantity
of bay salt; mix them with stale chamber-
lye, or white wine vinegar; cover the iron
with this mixture, and bed it in the same in
loam, or enclose it in an iron box ; lay it on
the hearth of the forge to dry and harden ;
then put it into the fire, and blow till the
lump has a blood-red heat, and no higher,
lest the mixture be burnt too much. Take
the iron out, and immerse it in water.
3300. To Case-Harden. Make a paste
with a concentrated solution of prussiate of
potash and loam, and coat the iron therewith ;
then expose it to a strong red heat, and when
it has fallen to a dull red, plunge the whole
into cold water.
330 1 . To Case-Harden Polished Iron.
The iron, previously polished and finished, is
to be heated to a bright red and rubbed or
sprinkled over with prussiate of potash. As
soon as the prussiate appears to be decompos-
ed and dissipated, plunge the article into cold
water. "WTien the process of case-hardening
has been well conducted, the surface of the
metal proves sufficiently hard to resist a file.
The last two plans are a great improvement
upon the common method. By the applica-
tion of the prussiate, as in the last receipt,
any part of a piece of iron may be case-hard-
ened, without interfering with the rest.
3302. Improved Process of Harden-
ing Steel. Articles manufactured of steel
for the purposes of cutting, are, almost with-
out an exception, taken from the forger to the
hardener without undergoing any interme-
diate process ; and such is the accustomed
routine, that the mischief arising has escaped
observation. The act of forging produces a
strong scale or coating, which is spread over
the whole of the blade ; this scale or coating
is unequal in substance, varying in proportion
to the degree of heat communicated to the
steel in forging ; it is almost impenetrable to
the action of water when immersed for the
purpose of hardening. Hence it is that dif-
ferent degrees of hardness prevail in nearly
every razor manufactured ; this is evidently a
positive defect; and so long as it continues to
exist, great difference of temper must exist
likewise. Instead, therefore, of hardening
the blade from the anvil, let it be passed im-
mediately from the hands of the forger to the
grinder ; a slight application of the stone will
remove the whole of the scale or coating, and
the razor will then be properly prepared to
undergo the operation of hardening with ad-
vantage. It is plain that steel in this state
heats in the fire with greater regularity, and
that, when immersed, becomes equally hard
from one extremity to the other. To this may
be added, that, as the lowest possible heat at
which steel becomes hard is indubitably the
best, the mode here recommended will be
found the only one by which the process of
hardening can be effected with a less portion
of fire than is, or can be, required in any other
way. These observations are decisive, and
will, in all probability, tend to establish in
general use what cannot but be regarded as a
very important improvement in the manufac-
turing of edge steel instruments.
3303. To Case-Harden Small Articles
of Iron. Fuse together, in an iron vessel
or crucible, 1 part prussiate of potash and 10
parts common salt, and allow the article to
remain in the liquid 30 minutes, then put them
in cold water and they will be case-hardened.
3304. To Clean a Shot Gun. Wrap
clean tow around the cleaning rod; then take
a bucket of tepid water — soap-suds if procura-
ble— and run the rod up and down the barrel
briskly until the water is quite black. Change
the water until it runs quite clear through
the. nipple; pour clean tepid water down
the barrel, and rub dry with fresh clean tow ;
run a little sweet oil on tow down the barrel
for use. To clean the stock, rub it with lin-
seed oil. If boiling hot water is used the
barrel will dry sooner, and no fear need be
apprehended of its injuring the temper of a
fine gun. Some sportsmen use boiling vine-
gar, but we cannot recommend this method.
The reason hot water does not injure the gun,
is that boiling water is only 212° Fahr., and
the gun was heated to 450° to give it its
proper temper.
3305. Grease for Anointing Gun-
Barrels on the Sea-Shore. It is said that
an ointment made of corrosive sublimate and
lard will prove an effectual protection against
the rusting of gun-barrels on the sea-shore.
ZINC— TIN.
3306. To Protect Polished Steel (fl
from Rust. Nothing is equal to pure
paraffme for preserving the polished surface
of iron and steel from oxidation. The par-
affine should be warmed, rubbed on, and
then wiped off with a woolen rag. It will
not change the color, whether bright or blue,
and will protect the surface better than any
varnish.
3307. To Protect Polished Metal
from Rust. Take 10 pounds gutta-percha,
20 pounds mutton suet, 30 pounds beef suet,
2 gallons neats' foot oil, and 1 gallon rape oil.
Melt together until thoroughly dissolved and
mixed, and color with a small portion of rose
pink ; oil of thyme or other perfuming matter
may be added. When cold the composition
is to be rubbed on the surface of bright steel,
iron, brass, or other metal, requiring protec-
tion from rust.
3308. To Remove Rust from Steel.
Rust may bo removed from steel by immers-
ing the article in kerosene oil for a few days.
The rust will become so much loosened that
it may easily be rubbed off. By this simple
method badly rusted knives and forks may be
made to present a tolerable appearance, but
for new goods there is no way to remove rust
from metal but by getting below it, or renew-
ing the surface. Where it is not deep-seated,
emery paper will do, but if long standing the
goods must be refinished.
3309. New Mode of Removing Rust.
Plunge the article in a bath of 1 pint hydro-
chloric (muriatic) acid diluted with 1 quart
water. Leave it there 24 hours; then take it
out and rub well with a scrubbing-brush. The
oxide will come off like dirt under the action
of soap. Should any still remain, as is likely,
in the corroded parts, return the metal to the
bath for a few hours more, and repeat the
scrubbing. The metal will present the ap-
pearance of dull lead. It must then be well
washed in plain water several times, and
thoroughly dried before a fire. Lastly, a
little rubbing with oil and fine emery powder
will restore the polish. Should oil or grease
have mingled with the rust, it will be neces-
sary to remove it by a hot solution of soda
before submitting the metal to the acid. This
last attacks the rust alone, without injuring
the steel ; but the washing in plain water is
all-important, as, after the process, the metal
will absorb oxygen from the atmosphere freely
if any trace of the acid be allowed to remain.
Z1HC. Zinc is a blueish white metal,
having a specific gravity of 6.8 to 7.2 ;
tough when cold, ductile and malleable at
from 250° to 300° Fahr., brittle and easily
pulverized at 500°; fuses at 773°, and sub-
limes unchanged at a white heat, in close
vessels. It is scarcely affected by exposure
to air and moisture ; hence its general use in
the arts for the manufacture of vessels of
capacity, tubing, &c., that require lightness
aud durability. Acids, even diluted, attack
zinc rapidly. It is also soluble in caustic
alkalies. Heated to whiteness, 941° Fahr.,
in contact with the air, it burns with great
brilliancy, and is converted into oxide,
owers of zinc). It is very soluble in dilute
sulphuric and muriatic acid, with the evolu-
tion of hydrogen gas. The salts of zinc are
colorless.
Commercial zinc is never pure, and is ob-
tained from the native sulphuret (zinc blende)
or carbonate (calamine), by roasting those .
ores, and distilling them along with carbon-
aceous matter in a covered earthen crucible,
having its bottom connected with an iron
tube which terminates over a vessel of water
situated beneath the furnace. The first por-
tion that passes over contains cadmium and
arsenic, and is indicated by what is technically
called the brown blaze; but when the metallic
vapor begins to burn with a blueish white
flame, or the Hue blaze commences, the
volatilized metal is collected. Zinc may be
alloyed with most of the metals. ( Cooley. )
3311. Purification of Zinc. Granulate
zinc by melting, and pouring it, while very
hot, into a deep vessel filled with water. Place
the granulated zinc in a Hessian crucible, in
alternate layers, with one-fourth its weight
of nitre, with an excess of nitre at the top.
Cover the crucible, and secure the lid ; then
apply heat. "When deflagration takes place,
remove from the fire, separate the dross, and
run the zinc into an ingot mould. It is quite
free from arsenic.
3312. To Granulate Zinc. Granulated
zinc is obtained by pouring the molten metal
into a warm mortar and triturating vigorously,
with an iron pestle, until it solidifies. (See
No. 3311.)
3313. To Color Metals. Make a .solu-
tion of 4 ounces hyposulphite of soda in 1J
pints of water, and add a solution of 1 ouu«e
acetate of lead in the same quantity of water.
Articles to be colored are placed in the mix-
ture, which is then gradually heated to a
boiling point. The effect of this solution is
to give iron the effect of blue steel, zinc be-
comes bronze, and copper or brass becomes
successively yellowish red, scarlet, deep blue,
blueish white, and finally white with a tinge
of rose. This solution has no effect on lead
or tin. By replacing the acetate of lead in
the solution with sulphate of copper, brass
becomes of a fine rosy tint, then green, and
finally, of an iridescent brown color. Zinc
does not color in this solution, it throws down
a precipitate of brown sulphuret of copper ;
but if boiled in a solution containing both
lead and copper, it becomes covered with a
black crust, which may be improved by a thin
coating of wax. (See No. 3188.)
Till. This metal approaches silver in
whiteness and lustre. When pure, it
is very malleable ; is harder, than lead ; melts
at 442° Fahr., and volatilizes at a white heat.
Its specific gravity is 7.29 to 7.31. This met-
al is decomposed by nitric, sulphuric, and
muriatic acids; and may be combined and
alloyed with most of the useful metals. Tin
occurs in nature in the state of the oxide, and
sometimes as sulphuret (tin pyrites.) In
Cornwall, England, it is found under the name
of tin- stone, associated with copper ore, in
the slate or granite rocks ; and as an alluvial
deposit (stream tin) in the beds of rivers.
A pure article of tin comes from Banca. The
metal is obtained from the ore, first reduced
to powder in stamping mills, washed to re-
move earthy matter, and then roasted to
expel arsenic and sulphur ; it is then deoxi-
dized or reduced by smelting with about £ its
weight of powdered culm (a kind of coal
found in "Wales), and a little slacked lime ; it
is next refined by liquation (see No. 21), fol-
lowed by a second smelting of the purer por-
tion ; it is then, while in a state of fusion,
stirred with billets of green wood, allowed to
settle, and cast into moulds. The product is
termed refined or block-tin. Tin produces a
peculiar crackling noise when bent ; in this
manner pure tin foil may be distinguished
from the so-called tin foil in general use,
which consists of lead with a tin surface only.
3315. Tests for the Purity of Tin.
It is almost entirely dissolved by hydrochloric
acid, yielding a colorless solution of muriate
(chloride) of tin. If it contains arsenic,
brownish-black flocks will be separated dur-
ing the solution, and arseniuretted hydrogen
evolved. The presence of other metals in tin
may be detected by treating the muriate of
tin solution with nitric acid, specific gravity
1.16, first in the cold, and afterwards with
heat, until all the tin is precipitated in an
insoluble peroxide ; the decanted acid solu-
tion from pure tin leaves no residuum on
evaporation. If there be a residuum, and
dilution with water occasions a heavy white
precipitate, the tin contained bismuth. If,
after dilution, the addition of a solution of
sulphate of ammonia or of soda produces a
white precipitate, the tin contained lead. If
red prussiate of potash gives a blue precipitate,
it contained iron; and if the clear liquid
leaves a residuum on evaporation, it contained
copper.
3316. Grain Tin. This is made from
block tin. The blocks are heated until they
become brittle, and then allowed to fall from
a considerable height, by which they are bro-
ken into small fragments, which constitute
grain tin, or tin in tears.
3317. Tin Powder or Filings. Melt
grain tin (see No. 3316) in an iron vessel, pour
it in an earthen-ware mortar heated a little
above its melting point, and triturate brisk-
ly as the metal cools ; lastly, sift the product,
and repeat the process with what remains in
the sieve. Powdered tin is also prepared by
filing and rasping.
3318. Powdered Tin. Take Cornish
grain tin ; melt it, and pour it into a wooden
box, well rubbed on the inside with whiting
or chalk ; close the cover, and continue shak-
ing it violently until the tin is reduced to
powder ; then wash it in clean water, and
dry it immediately.
3319. To Make Feathered Tin. The
object of feathering is to bring the tin into a
state of minute subdivision, which permits it
to be much more rapidly dissolved in acids.
Procure an iron ladle having a capacity of
about 12 fluid ounces, and a wooden or stone-
ware vessel containing 2 or 3 gallons of cold
water. About 1 pound of pure bar tin, free
from lead, is to be cut into pieces of about 2
inches in length, and melted in the ladle.
"When melted, pour the tin in a very small
NICKEL. 3Q5
stream, from a height of about 3 feet, into the
cold water. The ladle should be moved
around in a small circle, when pouring, for if
the whole of the melted tin strikes the water
at one point, it will cool in lumps, and re-
quire remelting. The feathered tin is to be
preserved in wooden boxes, the bottoms of
which are perforated with small holes; or,
what is better, kept in unglazed stoneware
flower-pots. Solutions of tin containing iron
or copper, or their salts, are unfit for dyeing
bright reds. (See Nos. 107, ^-c.)
3320. Moire Metallique, or Crystal-
lized Tin. A method of ornamenting the
surface of tin plate by acids. The plates are
washed with an alkaline solution, then in
water, heated, and sponged or sprinkled with
the acid solution. The appearance varies
with the degree of heat and the nature and
strength of the acids employed. The plates,
after the application of the acids, are plunged
into water, slightly acidulated, dried, and
covered with white or colored varnishes. The
following are some of the acid mixtures used :
nitre-muriatic acid, in different degrees of di-
lution ; sulphuric acid, with 5 parts of water,
1 part of sulphuric acid, 2 of muriatic acid,
and 8 of water; a strong solution of nitric
acid; 1 part nitric acid, 2 sulphuric, and 18
of water. A solution of potash is also used.
3321. Frosted Tin. A frosted appear-
ance may be given to sheet tin by a wash of
bichloride of tin.
3322. To Make a Tin Tree. Dissolve
3 drachms muriate (chloride) of tin in 1 pint
distilled water, adding 10 or 15 drops nitric
acid ; and suspend a small rod of clean zinc in
a phial containing the above solution.
Nickel. A white, hard, malleable,
magnetic metal, capable of receiving
the lustre of silver. Its specific gravity, when
hammered, is about 8.82. Nickel is very in-
fusible. Muriatic and sulphuric acid act on
it with difficulty unless mixed with nitric
acid, but it is freely soluble in the latter.
Nickel does not oxidize or tarnish at the or-
dinary temperature. It alloys well with cop-
per, tin, zinc, etc. It is obtained as Tollows :
Roast the powdered ore first by itself and
then with charcoal powder, till all the arsenic
is expelled, and a garlic odor ceases to be
evolved ; mix the residuum with 3 parts sulphur
and 1 part potash ; melt in a crucible with a
gentle heat, cool, edulcorate with water, dis-
solve in sulphuric acid mixed with a little
nitric acid, precipitate with carbonate of pot-
ash, wash, dry, mix the precipitate with
powdered charcoal, and reduce it by heat.
For chemical purposes pure nickel is best ob-
tained by moderately heating its oxalate in
a covered crucible, lined with charcoal. The
salts of nickel in the anhydrous state are for
the most part yellow ; when hydrated, green,
and furnishing pale green solutions. Nickel
is found present in meteoric iron, and is
strongly magnetic, but loses this property
when heated to 350° Fahr. It is chiefly
employed in the manufacture of German sil-
ver. Sulphate of nickel is used medicinally,
with soothing and soporific effects.
306
HER C UB T—AL UMIN UM.
Merciiry or Quicksilver
This is a neavy liquid metal, possess
ing a nearly silver- white color, and a brillian
metallic lustre. The principal sources of thi
metal at the present time are the mines of Idria
in Carniola, and Almaden in Spain, where i
exists under the form of cinnabar, from which
the pure metal is obtained by distilling tha
ore with lime or iron filings in iron retorts, by
which the sulphur it contains is seized ant
retained, while the mercury rises in the stat(
of vapor, and is condensed in suitable receiv
ers. Its specific gravity, when pure, i
13.5; it solidifies at —39° (39° below zero.
Fahr., and when solid is ductile, malleable
and tenacious ; boils at 662° Fahr., but vol-
atilizes slowly at the ordinary temperature
of the atmosphere, and when mixed with
water at from 140° to 160°, it is volatilized in
considerable quantities. It unites with oxy-
gen, forming two oxides; and with chlorine
forming calomel and corrosive sublimate:,
with the metals it forms amalgams, combin-
ing, however, with difficulty with iron, nickel,
platinum, and some other less importanl
metals. Its oxides form salts with the acids.
The only acids that act on metallic mercury
are the sulphuric and nitric ; but for this pur-
pose the former must be heated.
3325. Test for the Purity of Mercury.
Metallic mercury may be known by its vola-
tility; and when, in a finely divided or pul-
verulent state, by the microscope, or by stain-
ing a piece of copper white when rubbed on
it, or when heated beneath it. It is totally
dissipated by heat, and dissolved by diluted
nitric acid, but is insoluble in boiling muriatic
acid. The acid poured off, and allowed to
cool, is neither colored, nor yields a precipi
tate with sulphuretted hydrogen. A globule
moved about on a sheet of paper yields no
trail ; pure sulphuric acid agitated with it (in
the cold) evaporates when heated, without
leaving any residuum.
3326. To Purify Mercury. Mercury,
as imported, is usually very pure. It may be
prepared for medical purposes by putting 6
parts into a retort and distilling off 4 parts.
The whole of the mercury may, however, be
safely drawn over. The product is to be agi-
tated and boiled with 2 fluid drachms hydro-
chloric acid and 1 fluid ounce water for each
pound of the metal; then washed with pure
water, and dried by heat. A strong earthen-
ware or iron retort, with a low neck or tube
dipping into a basin of water, may be used for
this purpose.
3327. To Purify Mercury. One of the
quickest and best means of purifying mercury
is to agitate it with a concentrated solution of
nitrate of mercury, at a heat of 104° Fahr.,
then wash it with distilled water, and dry
by passing several times through clean, dry
chamois leather.
3328. To Purify Mercury. Distill equal
parts of mercury and iron filings in an iron
retort, into a vessel containing water.
3329. To Purify Mercury. The fol-
lowing simple method of purifying quicksilver
is bv Dr. Miller : Put the quicksilver into a
bottle capable of containing 4 times its
quantity, add a little powdered loaf sugar,
and stopper the bottle; shake it vigorously
for a few minutes, then open the bottle and
blow fresh air into it with a pair of bellows.
Eepeat this 3 or 4 times, and filter the mix-
ture through a cone of smooth writing paper
having its apex pierced with a fine pin. The
sugar is left behind in the filter with the
oxides of any other metals present, and a
small quantity of mercury in a state of minute
division.
This is the metallic
base of alumina, which is the plastic
principle of certain kinds of clay. The color
of aluminum is white, inclining to blue ; it is
very malleable, and ductile. Its specific grav-
ity is only about 2.60 ; its melting point not
less than 1000° Fahr. It is the most sonorous
of _ all metals. It is thus obtained: — Make a
thick paste of alumina, powdered charcoal,
sugar, and oil, and heat it in a covered cruci-
ble until all the organic matter is destroyed ;
then transfer the product to a porcelain tube,
and connect the one end with another tube
containing dried chloride of calcium, and the
other end with a small tubulated receiver.
Then expose the porcelain tube to the heat of
a small oblong furnace, and, having connected
the chloride of calcium tube with a vessel dis-
engaging chlorine, pass the gas through the
apparatus, at the same time raising the heat of
the tube to redness. In 1 or 2 hours, or as
soon as the tube becomes choked, the whole
must be allowed to cool, and taken to pieces,
and the sesquichloride of aluminum thus
formed collected. Then place 9 or 10 pieces
of potassium, of about the size of peas, in a
platina crucible, and upon them an equal
number of similar pieces of the sesquichloride
of alumina, formed as above; the cover is now
to be put on and secured in its place with a
wire, and the heat of a spirit lamp cautiously
applied, until the spontaneous incandescence
or the matter ceases. "When cold, throw the
crucible into a large vessel of cold water, agi-
tate and collect the gray powder deposited,
and again wash it well and dry it. This gray
powder consists of small metallic scales, re-
sembling platina. It is not acted on by cold
water, but is dissolved by the alkalies and
some of the acids. Heated to redness, it
catches fire and burns with great rapidity in
;he air, and in oxygen gas, with intense bril-
iancy. The powder, blown upon the flame
of a candle, displays an immense number of
inflamed points of great splendor.
3331. TS Polish Aluminum. The
iubstances generally employed for polishing
aluminum are of no utility. Mouray recom-
mends the use of an emulsion of equal parts
of rum and olive oil, made by shaking these
iquids together in a bottle. When the bur-
nishing stone is used, the peculiar black streaks
irst appearing should not cause vexation,
since they do not injure the metal in the least,
and may be removed with a woolen rag. The
objects in question may also be brightened in
)otash lye, in which case, however, care must
>e taken not to make use of too strong a lye.
?or cleaning purposes, benzole has been found
>est. Objects of aluminum can be electro-
)lated without the least difficulty, and Mouray
ucceeded in imparting to them a bright, white
PLATINUM— ANTIMONY.
307
lustre in passing them successively through a
weak bath of hydrofluoric acid and aqua fortis.
The effect thus obtained is said to be really
surprising.
3332. To Frost Aluminum. The
metal is piunged into a solution of caustic
potash. The surface, becoming frosted, does
not tarnish on exposure to the air.
PlatinilHl — also called platina — is
the heaviest substance but one (see No.
47) known, having a specific gravity of fully
21, which may be raised to about 21.5 by
hammering. It is whiter than iron, harder
than silver, infusible in the hottest furnace,
and melts only before the compound blow-
pipe at a heat of about 3080° Fahr. On this
account it is valuable for making capsules
&c., intended to resist strong heat. Platinum
undergoes no change by exposure to air and
moisture, or the strongest heat of a smith's
forge, and is not attacked by any of the pure
acids, but is dissolved by chlorine and nitro-
muriatic acid (aqua regia), though with more
difficulty than gold. Spongy and powdered
platinum possess the remarkable property of
causing the union of oxygen and hydrogen
gases. It is chiefly imported from South
America, but is also found in the Ural Moun-
tains of Russia, in Ceylon, and a few other
places. Platinum, when alloyed with silver,
is soluble in nitric acid ; the pure metal is dis-
solved by aqua regia, and is more or less at-
tacked by caustic alkali, nitre, phosphorus,
&c., with heat. Platinum is precipitated from
its solutions by deoxidizing substances under
the form of a black powder, which has the
power of absorbing oxygen, and again impart-
ing it to combustible substances, and thus
causing their oxidation. In this way alcohol
and pyroxilic spirit may be converted into
acetic and formic acids, &c. (See No. 1741,
also A cetic Acid. ) ( Cooley. )
3334. To Purify Platinum. The na-
tive alloy (crude platinum) is acted upon, as
far as possible, with nitro-muriatic acid, con-
taining an excess of muriatic acid, and slight-
ly diluted with water. The solution is preci-
pitated by the addition of sal-ammoniac,
which throws down nearly the whole of the
platinum in the state of an ammonio-chloride,
which is washed with a little cold water,
dried, and heated to redness ; the product is
spongy metallic platinum. This is made into
a thin uniform paste with water, pressed in a
brass mould, to squeeze out the water and
render the mass sufficiently solid to bear hand-
ling. It is then dried, carefully heated to
whiteness, and hammered or pressed in the
heated state ; after this treatment it may be
rolled into plates or worked into any desired
shape. (Cooley).
3335. Platinated Asbestos. Dip as-
bestos in a solution of chloride of platinum,
and heat it to redness. It causes the inflam-
mation of hydrogen in the same manner as
sponge platinum.
3336. Spongy Platinum. Dissolve
separately crude bichloride of platinum, and
hydrochlorate of ammonia in proof spirit;
add the one solution to the other as long as a
precipitate falls; this is collected, and, while
still moist, formed into little balls or pieces,
which are then dried, and gradually heated to
redness.
3337. Spongy Platinum. Dissolve
platinum, by the aid of heat, in a mixture of
three parts nitric and 5 parts muriatic acid,
avoiding great excess of acid. To this solu-
tion add a strong solution of muriate of am-
monia; collect the resulting precipitate on a
filter, and, when nearly dry, form it into a
mass of the shape desired for the sponge.
Heat this to whiteness on charcoal, with a
blow-pipe or otherwise, and the platinum re-
mains in the spongy state. Its characteristic
properties may be restored, when lost, by
simply heating it to redness.
3338. Platinum-Black. Platina Mohr.
This is platinum in a finely divided state, and
is obtained thus : — Add to a solution of bi-
chloride of platinum, an excess of carbonate
of soda, and a quantity of sugar. Boil until
the precipitate which forms becomes, after a
little while, perfectly black, and the superna-
tant liquid colorless ; filter the powder, wash,
and dry it by a gentle heat. Another method
is by melting platina ore with twice its weight
of zinc, powdering, digesting first in dilute sul-
phuric acid, and next in dilute nitric acid, to
remove the zinc, assisting the action of the
menstruum by heat; it is then digested in
potash lye, and lastly in pure water, after
which it is carefully dried. Platinum-black
possesses the property of condensing gases,
more especially oxygen, into its pores, and
afterwards yielding it to various oxidizable
substances. If some of it be mixed with al-
cohol into a paste, and spread on a watch
glass, pure acetic acid is given off, and affords
a ready means of diffusing the odor of vinegar
in an apartment. (See No. 1741.)
This is a bluish-white,
lustrous, semi-crystalline, extremely
brittle metal, of about 6.7 specific gravity;
imparts brittleness to alloys ; inflammable at
high temperature ; melts just under redness,
810° Fahr., fumes, boils, and volatilizes at a
white heat, and when suddenly exposed to
the air, inflames and is converted into teroxide
of antimony, which is deposited in beautiful
crystals. Antimony dissolves in hot hy-
drochloric acid, forming terchloride of anti-
mony ; nitric acid converts it into antimonio
acid. This metal is obtained principally from
France and Germany. Gold, when exposed
to the vapors of antimony, loses its ductility
and malleability, and becomes as brittle as
antimony itself.
3340. Tests for Antimony. An acid
solution of antimony gives, in combination
with sulphuretted hydrogen, an orange-red
precipitate, sparingly soluble in ammonia,
but readily soluble in pure potassa and alka-
line sulphurets. Hydrosulphuret of ammonia
throws down from the acid solution an
orange-red precipitate, readily soluble in ex-
cess of the precipitant, if the latter contain
sulphur in excess ; and the liquor containing
the re-dissolved precipitate gives a yellow or
orange-yellow precipitate on the addition of
308
BISMUTH— ALLOTS.
an acid. Ammonia, and potassa, and their
carbonates (excepting in solutions of tartar
emetic) give a bulky white precipitate ; that
from ammonia being insoluble in excess of the
precipitant; that from potassa readily so;
while those from the carbonate are only solu-
ble on the application of heat.
3341. To Estimate the Purity of
Antimony. Treat pulverized antimony
•with nitric acid ; this oxidizes the antimony,
and leaves it in an insoluble state, whilst it
dissolves the other metals. Collect the oxide
on a filter, wash, dry, ignite, and weigh it.
This weight, multiplied by .843, gives the
weight of pure metal in the sample examined.
If this has been previously weighed, the per-
centage of pure metal is easily arrived at.
3342. To Obtain Metallic Antimony.
Mix together 16 parts sulphuret of antimony
and 6 parts cream of tartar, both in powder ;
put the mixture, in small quantities at a time,
into a vessel heated to redness; when reaction
ceases, fuse the mass, and, after 15 minutes,
pour it out and separate the metal from the
slag. The product is nearly pure.
Or : Equal parts of protoxide of antimony
and bitartrate of potassa (cream of tartar) ;
mix and fuse as above, and pour the metal
into small conical moulds.
Or : 8 parts sulphuret of antimony, 6 parts
cream of tartar, and 3 parts nitre. Treated as
above.
Or : 2 parts sulphuret of antimony and 1
part iron filings ; calcine at a strong heat in a
covered crucible.
3343. To Obtain Commercial Anti-
mony. Fuse together 100 parts sulphuret of
antimony, 40 parts metallic iron, and 10 parts
dry crude sulphate of soda. This produces
from 60 to 65 parts of antimony, besides the
scorise or ash, which is also valuable.
acid ; add caustic potash in excess, and the
xides of bismuth and lead will be precipitated,
rat the lead oxide will be at once re-dissolved
>y the alkali. The oxide of bismuth can then
>e separated by filtration, washed, and igni-
ed. (Makins.) »
B ism. Tltll. This metal is principal-
ly prepared in Germany, and, as im-
ported, generally contains both arsenic and
copper. It is a crystalline metal, very brittle,
of a reddish white color ; melts at about 500°
Pahr., volatilizes at a strong heat, and the
fumes form crystalline scales (flowers of bis-
muth). It burns when strongly heated in
the air, and has a specific gravity of about
9.8. The addition of bismuth to other metals
lowers their melting point in an extraordi-
nary manner, making it a useful ingredient in
the composition of type-metal and solders
(-See No. 3499, etc.)
3345. To Purify Bismuth. Dissolve
crude bismuth in nitric acid, and concentrate
the solution by evaporation. Then pour the
clear solution into a large bulk of distillec
r water, and a white powder (sub-nitrate of bis
muth) will be precipitated. Collect the precip
itate and digest it for a time in a little caustic
potash, to dissolve away any arsenious acids
that may be present ; next wash and dry the
sub-nitrate ; heat it with about -^ its weigh
of charcoal in an earthen crucible, and thi
pure bismuth will be found at the bottom o
the crucible. (Makins.)
3346. To Separate Bismuth from
Lead. Dissolve the mixed metal in nitric
Combinations of the metals
with each other obtained by fusion.
"When mercury is one of the component metals,
the compound is termed an amalgam. (See
No. 3532.) Most of the metals unite with
each other by fusion or amalgamation, and
acquire new properties. Thus : copper alloy-
ed with zinc, becomes brass, and possesses a
different density, hardness, and color to either
of its constituents. No general rules for the
manufacture of alloys applicable to each can
>e given; but it may be remarked that, in
uniting metals differing greatly in their melt-
ng points, the least fusible should be melted
first, and the others added, one at a time, in
iheir order of fusibility, the most fusible
metal being the last to be added ; also that,
Before the addition of each succeeding metal,
the temperature of the already, fused mass
should be reduced to the lowest point at which
t will remain fluid, or as near as possible to
;he fusing point of the metal to be next intro-
duced, so that it may not evaporate or be
oxidized, and thus cause the compound to bo
mperfect. This is a general rule, to be ap-
plied in most cases; but there are exceptions.
For instance: gold will easily dissolve in
melted tin; and platinum in many mefals.
[f platinum were first melted, and zinc, for
instance, added, the temperature necessary to
obtain the fusion of platinum would be suffi-
cient to volatilize the zinc. The mixture is
usually effected under a flux, or some material
that will prevent evaporation and exposure to
the atmosphere. Thus : in melting lead and
tin together, in forming solder, resin or tallow
is thrown upon the surface ; in tinning cop-
per, the surface is rubbed with sal-ammoniac ;
and in combining some metals, powdered
charcoal is used for the same purpose. (See
No. 3470.) As we have already said, most of
the alloys are prepared by simply fusing the
metals together; but if there be a considerable
difference in their specific gravities, the heav-
ier very generally subsides, and the lower
part of the mass thus differs in composition
from the upper. This may be in a great
measure prevented by agitating the alloy till
it solidifies, but this is not always convenient.
Thus, in stereotype plates, which are cast ver-
tically, the upper side usually contains more
antimony than the other. Asa general rule,
the substances (elements) of nature unite
together in fixed and definite atomic propor-
tions, thereby forming new compounds. Met-
als unite with non-metallic bodies, and obey
the same general law; but metals, when
united with metals, appear to form an excep-
tion, though much doubt exists on the subject.
They seem to mix in any proportion, and are
thereby modified, possessing thereafter prop-
erties which fit them for many purposes in
commerce and art. These compounds, being
considered at present non-chemical bodies, are
ALLOYS.
309
classed together under the French term of al-
loys. Alloys are generally more fusible than
the least fusible of the component metals ;
but are often harder and more brittle than the
hardest and most brittle of the component
metals. With some exceptions, the ductility
and tenacity of an alloy is less than that of its
inetals.
3348. Table of the Principal Alloys of Copper. This table of the alloys of copper
is from Dr. Ure. The bronze for statues is the composition used by Keller Brothers, the
celebrated brass founders.
Copper.
Zinc.
Tin.
Nickel.
Antimony
Lead.
87.000
13.000
97.000
3.000
Bronze for statues ................
91.400
5.530
1.700
1.370
for medals ............
90.000
10.000
for cannon . ...........
90.000
10.000
78.000
22.000
for gilding ........ ......
82.257
17.481
0.238
0024
80.000
16.500
2.500
1000
Speculum metal ....................
66.000
34.000
Brass for sheet ... ..............
84.700
15.300
Gilding metal ....
73.730
26.270
Prince's metal .....................
75.000
25.000
n <t
50.000
50.000
Dutch metal .
84.700
15.300
English wire .. ....
70.290
29.260
0.170
0280
Mosaic gold ... ...
66.000
34.000
Gun metal for bearings, stocks, &c
Muntz's metal ...... .............
90.300
60.000
9.670
40.000
0.030
Good yellow brass
66.000
34.000
Babbitt's metal for bushing
8.300
83.400
8.300
Bell metal for large bells . -
.80.000
20.000
Britannia metal
1.000
2.000
81.000
16.000
Nickel silver, English
60.000
17.800
22.200
" " Parisian ...... ....
50.000
13.600
19.300
German silver .. ....
50.000
25.000
25.000
Pinchbeck
80.200
20.000
3349. Properties of Metals. The
metals form part of the elements of nature,
are undecompounded bodies, and distinguish-
ed from the other elements by their lustre,
weight, <fcc.
3350. Table Showing, in their Order,
the Comparative Properties of Metals.
Order of Malle-
Order of (
Drder of Brittle-
ability.
Ductility.
ness.
Gold,
Gold,
Antimony,
Silver,
Silver,
Arsenic,
Copper,
Platinum,
Bismuth,
Tin,
Iron,
Chromium,
Cadmium,
Copper,
Cobalt,
Platinum,
Zinc,
Manganese,
Lead,
Tin,
Molybdenum,
Zinc,
Lead,
Tellurium,
Iron,
Nickel,
Titanium.
Nickel,
Palladium,
Tungsten,
Palladium,
Cadmium,
Uranium,
Potassium,
Khodium,
Order of Heat Order of Elec-
Order of Tenacity.
Conducting
trical Conduct-
Power.
ing Power.
Iron, 1,000
Gold,
Copper,
Copper, 550
Platinum, 494
Platinum,
Silver,
Gold,
Silver,
Silver, 349
Copper,
Zinc,
Gold, 273
Iron,
Platinum.
Zinc, 199
Zinc,
Iron,
Tin, 63
Tin,
Tin,
Lead, 50
Lead,
Lead,
Mercury,
Potassium.
3351. Lustre is so characteristic as to
have formed the common expression "me-
tallic lustre."
3352. Weight is also a rough distinguish-
ing characteristic.
3353. Fusibility is a property common
to all metals. Before some metals are ren-
dered fluid by heat, they become pasty ; such
is an indication of malleability. The follow-
ing table gives the degrees (Fahr.) of heat at
which metals fuse :
Tin 442°
Bismuth 497°
Lead 612°
Zinc 773°
Antimony 810°
Silver. 1,873°
Copper 1,990°
Gold 2,010°
Iron ( Cast) 2,78G°
Nickel 2,800° (about)
Manganese 3,000° (about)
3354. Malleability, or the property of
being beaten out into thin plates without
cracking or breaking, is common to several
metals.
3355. Ductility is also a property found
in some metals. It is allied to malleability, •
and often confounded with it. It is the prop-
erty of being drawn into wire.
3356. Tenacity, or the resistance of
being pulled asunder by the force of tension,
varies exceedingly in metals.
3357. Brittleness, resulting from hard-
ness, is a property also met with ; and where
the brittleness is not extreme, hardness is in
favor where subjected to compression.
31O
ALLOTS.
3358. How to Make Brass. This use-
ful alloy of copper and zinc is now generally
made by plunging the copper in slips into the
zinc melted in the usual manner. The former
metal rapidly combines with the fluid mass,
and the addition is continued until an alloy is
formed somewhat difficult of fusion, when the
remainder of the copper is at once added.
The brass thus formed is broken into pieces
and remelted under charcoal, and a proper ad-
dition of either zinc or copper made to bring
it up to the color and quality desired. Small
quantities of brass may be made by melting
the copper and zinc separately, pouring them
together and stirring vigorously. (See Cop-
per Flux, No. 3470.) It is then poured into
moulds of granite. Before being submitted
to the rolling press for reduction to thin
plates, it has to undergo the operation of
annealing. lu the receipts which follow, it
•will be seen that the larger the proportion of
copper, the darker the color, the greater the
density, and, to a certain extent, the tough-
ness, of the alloy. Zinc lessens the weight
and color. Tin gives it hardness and grain,
and lead toughens it and renders it fitter for
working. An application of these principles
will serve as a guide for the metals and
proportions to be used to produce a brass of
any description required.
3359. Fine Light Yellow Brass.
Melt together 2 parts copper and 1 part zinc.
3360. Bright Yellow Malleable
Brass. Melt together 7 parts copper and
3 parts zinc.
3361. Deep Yellow Malleable Brass.
Melt together £ parts copper and 1 part zinc.
3362. Brass Malleable whilst Hot.
Melt together 3 parts copper and 2 parts zinc.
3363. Bed Brass. Melt together 5
parts copper and 1 part zinc. As much as 10
parts of copper to 1 part zinc may be used,
the color being a deeper red for every addi-
tional part of copper employed.
3364. Brass for Buttons. Copper, 8
parts, and zinc 5 parts. This is the Birming-
ham platin.
3365. Pale Brass for Buttons, &c.
Melt together 16 parts fine light yellow brass
(see No. 3359), 2 parts zinc, and 1 part tin.
3366. Common Pale Brass. Melt to-
gether 25 parts copper, 20 parts zinc, 3 parts
lead, and 2 parts tin.
3367. Fine Pale Brass for Castings.
Melt together 15 parts copper, 9 parts zinc
and 4 parts tin. This is rather brittle.
3368. Dark Brass for Castings. Melt
together 90 parts copper, 7 parts zinc, 2 parts
tin, and 1 part lead. The color will be stil
deeper by using 2 parts less of zinc, and 1 part
more each of copper and tin.
3369. Pale Brass for Gilding. Melt
together copper, 64 parts; 32 parts zinc, 3
parts lead, and 1 part tin.
3370. Bed Brass for Gilding. Melt
together 82 parts copper, 18 parts zinc, 3 parti
tin, and 1 part lead.
3371. Brass for Solder. Melt together
12 parts fine yellow brass (see No. 3359), 6
parts zinc, and 1 part tin. Used for ordinary
brazing.
3372. Pale Brass for Turning. Mel
together 98 parts fine brass (see No. 3359)
and 2 parts lead.
3373. Bed Brass for Turning. Melt
;ogether 65 parts copper, 33 parts zinc, 2 parts
ead.
3374. Bed Brass for Wire. Melt to-
gether 72 parts copper and 28 parts zinc,
n'operly annealed.
3375. Pale Brass for Wire. Melt to-
jether 64 parts copper, 34 parts zinc, and 2
mrts lead.
3376. To Make Brass which Ex-
pands by Heat Equally with Iron. It is
lifficult to make a permanent joint between f
jrass and iron, on account of their unequal '
3xpansion by heat. In a recent issue of the
ournal of " Applied Chemistry," a new alloy
.s given, for which the inventor claims an ex-
pansion by heat so nearly similar to that of
.ron, as to allow of a union between them,
which, for all practical purposes, is perma-
nent. This consists of a mixture of 79 parts
opper, 15 parts zinc, and 6 parts tin.
3377. To Harden Brass. Brass is
tempered or hardened by rolling or hammer-
ing ; consequently, if any object is to be made
of tempered brass, the hardening must be
done before working it into the required
ihapc.
3378. To Soften Brass. Heat it to a
cherry red, and plunge it into water.
3379. To Cover Brass with Beautiful
Lustre Colors. Dissolve 1 ounce cream of
tartar in 1 quart boiling water ; then add k
ounce protochloride of tin dissolved in 4 oun-
ces cold water. Next heat the whole to boil-
ing, and decant the clear solution from a
trifling precipitate, and pour, under continual
stirring, into a solution of 3 ounces hyposul-
phate of soda in -J pint water, then heat again
to boiling, and filter from the separated sul-
phur. This solution produces on brass the
various lustre colors, depending on the length
of time during which the articles are allowed
to remain in it. The colors at first will be
light to dark gold yellow, passing through all
the tints of red to an iridescent brown. A
similar series of colors is produced by sulphide
of copper and lead, which, however, are not
remarkable for their stability; whether this
defect will be obviated by the use of the tin
solution, experience and time alone can show.
3380. To Put a Black Finish on Brass
Instruments. Make a strong solution of
nitrate of silver in one dish, and of nitrate of
copper*in another. Mix the two together,
and plunge the brass in it. Now heat the
brass evenly till the required degree of dead
blackness is obtained. This is the method of
producing the beautiful dead black so much
admired in optical instruments, and which
was so long kept a secret by the French.
3381. To Frost Watch Movements.
Mix together 1 ounce each muriatic acid, ni-
tric acid, and common salt ; immerse the arti-
cle, as far as it is to be frosted, in the mixture
for a short time; then immerse it, so as just
to cover it, in sour beer, and scour it under
the beer with a brush made of fine brass wire
(a scratch brush); wash it in water, and after-
wards in alcohol. The surface is then ready
to gild or silver-plate if desired.
3382. To Color Brass. Although no
alloy presents a more agreeable appearance
to the eye than brass when it is in a high
state of polish, yet the facility with which it
ALLOTS.
311
tarnishes has rendered it necessary to color or
bronze it, especially in those instances where
its use exposes it to the liability of being fre-
quently handled. The following receipts are
from a reliable German source, and are said
to possess a high degree of permanence. (See
Nos. 3771, rf-c.)
3383. To Give Brass an Orange Tint.
An orange tint, inclining to gold, is produced
by first polishing the brass and then plunging
it for a few seconds into a neutral solution ol
crystallized acetate of copper, care being taken
that the solution is completely destitute of
all free acid, and possesses a warm tempera-
ture.
3384. To Color Brass Grey-Green.
Dipped into a bath of copper, the brass being
first polished, as in last receipt, the resulting
tint is a grayish green.
3385. To Color Brass Violet. A beau-
tiful violet is obtained by immersing the pol-
ished brass for a single instant in a solution of
chloride of antimony, and rubbing it with a
stick covered with cotton. The temperature
of the brass at the time the operation is in
progress has a great influence upon the beauty
and delicacy of the tint; in this instance it
should be heated to a degree so as just to be
tolerable to the touch.
3386. To Give Brass a Moire Ap-
pearance. A moire appearance, vastly su-
perior to that usually seen, is produced by
boiling the object in a solutibn of sulphate of
copper. According to the proportions ob-
served between the zinc and the copper in the
composition of the brass, so will the tints ob-
tained vary. In many instances it requires
the employment of a slight degree of friction,
with a resinous or waxy varnish, to bring out
the wavy appearance characteristic of moire",
which is also singularly enhanced by drop-
ping a few iron nails into the bath.
3387. Black Lacquer for Brass.
There are two methods of procuring a black
lacquer upon the surface of brass. The one
usually employed for optical and scientific
instruments consists in first polishing the
object with Tripoli, then washing it with a
mixture composed of 1 part nitrate of tin and
2 parts chloride of gold, and, after allowing
this wash to remain for nearly a quarter of
an hour, wiping it off with a linen cloth.
An excess of acid increases the intensity of
the tint.
By another method copper turnings are dis-
solved in nitric acid until the acid is saturated :
the. objects are cleaned, immersed in the solu-
tion, and subsequently heated moderately
over a charcoal fire. This process must be
repeated in order to produce a black color, as
the first trial only gires a deep green, and
the finishing touch is to polish with olive oil.
3388. To Give Brass an English
Look. Much pains are taken to give brass
objects an English look. For this purpose
they are first heated to redness, and then dip-
ped in a weak solution of sulphuric acid.
Afterwards they are immersed in dilute nitric
acid, thoroughly washed in water, and dried
in sawdust. To effect a uniformity in the
color they are plunged into a bath consisting
of 2 parts nitric acid and 1 part rain water,
where they are suffered to remain for several
minutes. Should the color not be free from
spots and patches, the operation must be
repeated until the desired effect is produced.
3389. To Clean Brass. Brass and cop-
per are best cleaned with sweet oil and Tripoli,
powdered bath-brick, rotten stone, or red
brick-dust, rubbed on with flannel and polish-
ed with leather. Vitriol and muriatic acid
make brass and copper very bright, but they
very soon tarnish, and consequently require
more frequent cleaning. A strong lye of roche-
aluni and water will also improve brass. A
solution of oxalio acid rubbed over tarnished
brass with a cotton rag, soon removes the
tarnish, rendering the metal bright. The acid
must be washed off with water, and the brass
rubbed with whitening in powder and soft
leather. When acids are employed for re-
moving the oxide from brass, the metal must
be thoroughly washed afterwards, or it will
tarnish in a few minutes after being exposed
to the air.
3390. To Give a Golden Color to
Brass. A mixture of muriatic acid and
alum dissolved in water imparts a golden
color to brass articles that are steeped in it for
a few seconds.
3391. Paste to Clean Brass. Soft
soap, 2 ounces; rotten-stone, 4 ounces; beat
them to a paste. Or: Rotten stone made
into a paste with sweet oil. • Or: Eotten-stone,
4 ounces; oxalic acid, 1 ounce; sweet oil, Ik
ounces ; turpentine enough to make a paste..
The first and last are best applied with a little
water. The second, with a little spirits of
turpentine, or sweet oil. Both require fric-
tion with soft leather.
3392. To Clean Brass Inlaid Work.
Mix Tripoli and linseed oil, and dip into it a
rubber made of a piece of an old hat, with
which polish the work and rub off with clean
soft leather. If the wood be ebony or rose-
wood, polish it with a little finely powdered
elder ashes ; or make a paste of rotten-stone,
a little starch, sweet oil, and oxalic acid,
mixed with water. The ornaments of a French
clock are, however, best cleaned with bread-
crumb, carefully rubbed, so as not to spoil
the wood-work. Ormolu candlesticks, lamps,
and branches, may be cleaned with soap and
water. They will bear more cleaning than
lacquered articles, which are spoiled by fre-
quent rubbing, or by acids or strong alkalies.
3393. Solutions to Clean Brass.
Finely powdered sal-ammoniac;, water to
moisten. Or : Roche alum, 1 part ; water, 16
parts. Mix. The articles to be cleaned must
be made warm, then rubbed with either of the
above mixtures and finished with fine Tripoli.
This process will give them the brilliancy of
gold.
3394. Solution for Cleaning Brass
Chains. Mix together 1 ounce sulphuric
acid, J ounce nitric acid, \ drachm saltpetre,
and 1 ounce rain water, and allow the solu-
tion to repose a few hours. Pass the article
to be cleaned rapidly through the solution,
and immediately wash it thoroughly with rain
water. Dry in sawdust. This process will
make old and discolored chains look as good
as new.
3395. To Clean Very Dirty Brass.
Rub some bichromate of potassa fine, pour
over it about twice the bulk of sulphuric acid,
and mix this with an equal quantity of water.
312
ALLOTS.
"Wash immediately in plenty of water, wipe
it, and rub perfectly dry, and polish with pow-
By this
be made
method the
immediately
dered rotten-stone,
dirtiest brass may
bright,
3396. To Give Brass Ornaments a
Fine Color. Brass ornaments, when not
gilt or lacquered, may be cleansed, and a fine
color given to them, by two simple processes.
The first is to beat sal-ammoniac into a fine
powder, then to moisten it with soft water,
rubbing it on the ornaments, which must be
afterwards rubbed dry with bran and whiting.
The second is to wash the brass work with
roche alum boiled to a strong lye, in the
proportion of 1 ounce to 1 pint; when dry,
it must be rubbed with fine Tripoli. Either of
these processes will give to brass the brilliancy
of gold.
3397.
Counterfeit Gold. Fuse together
8 parts platinum, 5 parts pure copper, 2 parts
pure zinc, 4 parts tin, and 3 parts pure lead,
using saltpetre, sal-ammoniac, and powdered
charcoal as fluxes. This compound metal
strongly resembles gold in appearance, and
resists many of the tests used for gold.
3398. Hard Gold. A mixture of 7 parts
gold and 1 part copper appears to afford the
maximum of hardness.
3399. Coin Gold.
Melt together with
saltpetre and sal-ammoniac, 22 grains pure
" pure copper. The later
oyed with 2 grains of
a mixture of 1 part silver and 2 parts copper.
gold with 2 grains of pure copp
American coin is alloyed wit
nearly equal silver in whiteness and suscepti-
bility of receiving a high polish, while they
surpass it in hardness and durability. The
mixture of the metals is effected in the same
way as is given for making alloy*. (See No.
3347.) The receipts here given are from the
highest authorities, or are the results of
actual analysis of the finest commercial sam-
ples.
341O.
German Silver for Boiling.
Nickel and zinc, each 1 part ; copper, 2 parts.
Yery fine. Or: nickel, 25 parts; zinc, 20
parts ; copper, 60 parts. Used for rolling.
3411. German Silver for Castings.
Nickel and zinc, each 20 parts; copper, 60
parts; lead, 3 parts. For castings. Or, to
either of the above add 2 to 3 per cent, of white
sheet iron.
3412. Genuine German Silver. Cop-
parts; zinc, 25i
This resembles the
per, 40^- parts; nickel,
parts; iron, 2k parts.
genuine German silver made from the ore
of Hildburghausen, as well as Pakfong, as
analyzed by Dr. Fyfe, and is equal to the best
Chinese sample.
3413. Pelouze's German Silver.
Equal parts of copper and nickel. Said to be
superior to any of the alloys containing zinc.
2 parts of copper to 1 part of nickel make the
alloy more malleable, though not so white.
3414. Chinese White Copper. This
consists of 30 parts copper, 36 parts nickel,
and 34 parts zinc.
3415. Pakfong, or White Copper
The copper used for alloying gold must be I from China. This is composed of 41 parts
pure, otherwise the mixture will be brittle.
3400. To Make Eighteen Carat Gold.
Pure gold, 18 parts, is alloyed with 4 parts
pure copper and 2 parts silver. Or: 194
parts com gold, 3 parts copper, and Ik parts
silver.
3401. To Make Sixteen Carat Gold.
Sixteen parts pure gold are mixed with 5k
parts copper, and 24 parts silver. Or: 17
parts corn gold, 5 parts copper, and 2 parts
silver.
3402. To Make Twelve Carat Gold.
Coin gold, 75 parts ; further alloyed with 40
parts copper, and 22 parts silver, make a com-
bination of good appearance, which stands
acid tests well.
3403. To Make Four Carat Gold. A
good useful metal for cheap rings, &c., which
will not blacken the finger, is made by mix-
ing 4 parts gold with 2 parts silver, and 18
parts copper.
3404. To Make
Green Gold. Pure
gold, 19 parts, and 5 parts pure silver, com-
bine to form an alloy of a beautiful green
shade, very effective for foliated designs in
Pivots for Artificial Teeth.
An alloy of platinum and silver is used for
this purpose.
3406. Chaudet's Springs for Arti-
ficial Teeth. Equal parts of copper, silver,
jewelry.
3405.
and palladium.
3407. Hard Silver.
An alloy of 5 parts
silver and 1 part copper forms the hardest alloy
of these metals.
3408. French Coin Silver.
This con-
sists of 9 parts silver and 1 part copper.
3409. German Silver. This is a well-
known alloy, the finer varieties of which
copper, 32 parts nickel, 2£ parts iron, and !
parts zinc. The Chinese Pakfong is said to
be prepared from native ore. It is silvery
white, takes a high polish, very sonorous,
malleable both cold and at a dull red heat,
and may be rolled into leaves or drawn into
wire.
3416. White Spoon Metal. This is
the alloy sold as German plate. Melt to-
gether 55 parts copper, 24 parts nickel, 16
parts zinc, 3 parts tin, and 2 parts iron. This
is a useful alloy.
3417. Britannia Metal. Plate brass, 4
ounces ; tin, 4 ounces ; when fused add 4
ounces each of bismuth and antimony. This
composition is added at discretion to melted
tin.
3418. To Clean Britannia Ware.
Britannia ware should be first washed with a
woolen cloth and sweet oil, then washed in
water and suds, and rubbed with soft leather
and whiting. Thus treated, it will retain its
beauty to the last. Britannia ware may also
be cleaned in the same way as copper, in No.
3252.
3419. Type Metal. Lead, 3 parts ; anti-
mony, 1 part ; melted together. Small types
are usually made of a harder composition than
large ones. A good stereotype metal is said
to be made of lead, 9 parts ; antimony, 2 parts ;
bismuth, 1 part. This alloy expands as it
cools, and consequently brings out a fine im-
pression.
3420. Bismuth and Lead. Lead, 2
parts to bismuth, 1 part, gives an alloy which
dilates powerfully at the time of cooling.
This property makes it extremely suitable to
all castings in which the greatest sharpness
and finish are desirable.
ALLOTS.
313
3421. Tin and Zinc. Tin and zinc, of
each 1 part, i.s almost as tenacious as brass,
and ineics at 900° Fahrenheit.
3422. Pewter. Tin, 100 parts ; antimony,
8 parts ; copper, 4 parts ; and bismuth, 1 part,
constitute the compound commonly called
pewter.
3423. Alloys of Steel. Steel is success-
fully alloyed with other metals, improving its
qualities for some purposes. -^ part of silver
adds immensely to the hardness of steel, and
yet increases its tenacity, -rftr Part °f plati-
num, though not forming so hard an alloy as
the silver and steel, gives a very great degree
of toughness. Rhodium, palladium, iridium,
and osmium make steel very hard, but their
use, from their cost, is confined mainly to the
experimental laboratory. Platinum, in its
malleable state, may be cut •with a knife ; but
with steel it forms an alloy not to be touched
with a file.
3424. Iron, Copper, and Zinc. An al-
loy consisting of 10 parts cast iron, 10 copper,
and 80 zinc, does not adhere to the mould in
casting, and it is of a beautiful lustre when
filed and polished. The least fusible metals
are melted first, and the zinc last, in making
it.
3425. Ormolu, or Mosaic Gold. Cop-
per and zinc, equal parts ; melt together at the
lowest possible temperature at which copper
will fuse, and stir so as to produce a perfect
admixture of the metals ; then add gradually,
small portions of zinc at a time, until the alloy
acquires the proper color, which is perfectly
white, while in the melted state. It must
then be at once cast into figured moulds.
This alloy should contain from 52 to 55 per
cent, of zinc.
3426. White Metal. Lead, 10 ounces ;
bismuth, 6 ounces; and antimony, 4 drachms;
or, 2 pounds antimony, 8 ounces brass, and 10
ounces tin.
3427. French Alloy for Forks and
Spoons. This is a beautiful white metal,
very hard, and taking a fine polish. It is
composed of 69.8 parts of copper, 19.8 parts
nickel, 5.5 of zinc, and 4.7 of cadmium.
3428. French Silver. The new French
silver is apparently an improvement on the
old-fashioned German silver, and it is stated to
be applicable to all the purposes to which or-
dinary commercial silver is applicable. It is
composed of copper, 56 per cent., nickel, 40.64,
tungsten, 2.0, aluminum, 0.56. It is a white,
ductile, malleable, tenacious, sonorous alloy;
its specific gravity is nine-tenths that of sil-
ver, its metallic lustre superior to that of sil-
ver, and its fusibility less, probably on account
of the tungsten it contains.
3429. The Alloys of Aluminum. Wo
have to distinguish between alloys in which
the aluminum predominates and such ones in
which the other metals outweigh the latter.
Those impart to the aluminum new proper-
ties. Iron and copper do not act injuriously
if the admixture is not considerable. In re-
gard to toughness, the union of 7 per cent, of
iron can scarcely be distinguished from pure
aluminum. Both metals easily combine with
each other. Commercial aluminum mostly
contains iron; it remains ductile with as
much as 10 per cent, of copper, and when
containing only half as much, it may be
worked still easier. If alloyed with small
quantities of zinc, tin, gold, or silver, the
metal is rendered hard and more brilliant, but
remains ductile. Especially recommended is
the alloy consisting of 97 per cent, of alum-
inum, and 3 per cent of zinc. The alloy with
7 per cent, of tin can be worked well, but does
not take a very fine polish, and cannot be
cast, since a more fusible alloy with a large
proportion of tin is separated. Aluminum
and lead do not unite. The composition with
3 per cent, of silver and 97 of aluminum pos-
sesses a beautiful color, and in equal parts
they yield an alloy of the hardness of bronze.
The union of 99 per cent, of aluminum and 1
of gold is, though hard, still ductile ; its color
is that of green gold. 'With 10 per cent, of
gold, the composition is rendered crystalline.
In combining aluminum with copper, the lat-
ter must be melted first, and the former added
gradually in small portions at a time. A com-
bination of 10 parts aluminum and 90 parts
copper produces a fine aluminum bronze,
which, however, is brittle after the first mix-
ing ; it increases in strength and tenacity only
after successive fusions, but with the loss,
each time, of a little aluminum. This bronze
may be forged at a dull red heat without pre-
senting flaws or cracks. Like copper, it is
rendered more ductile by being heated and
plunged into cold water.
3430. Copper and Aluminum for
Journals. The most important alloy of
aluminum is that composed of 90 per cent, of
copper and 10 per cent, of aluminum. It pos-
sesses a pale gold color, a hardness surpassing
that of bronze, is susceptible ,of taking a fine
polish, and is easier forged than soft iron.
This alloy has found a ready market, and, if
less costly, would replace red and yellow
brass. Its hardness and tenacity render it
peculiarly adapted for the journals and bear-
ings of machinery. Christofle, of Paris, who
uses it for a journal for a polishing disk,
found that it lasted six times longer than or-
dinary journals — that is, 18 months. There
were 2200 revolutions made per minute. It
is further stated, on good authority, that a
journal of this new bronze, which was em-
ployed for the axle of a sewing machine, mak-
ing 240 revolutions per minute, did excellent
service for 1 year without indicating the least
deficiency. Journals of ordinary bronze do
not, as is well known, last over 5 months.
"When more than 10 per cent, of aluminum
enters into the composition of the bronze, the
alloy gradually becomes weaker and less mal-
leable, and at length so brittle that it is easily
pounded in a mortar.
3431. Oroide, or Artificial Gold. This
material is manufactured largely in the United
States into imitation jewelry and other arti-
cles, scarcely distinguishable from gold, ex-
cept by the inferior gravity ; and it is a mat-
ter of surprise to almost any one to learn that
it does not contain a single grain of the pre-
cious metal. It is made by taking 100 parts of
pure copper, 17 of pure tin, 6 of magnesia, 9
of tartar of commerce, 3.6 of sal-ammoniac,
and 1.6 of unslacked lime. The copper is first
melted, and the other substances (excepting
the tin) added, a little at a time, and the
whole well stirred for 30 minutes, so as to
produce a perfect mixture, when the tin is
ALLOYS.
thrown in and stirred round until melted.
The crucible is then covered, and the fusion
kept up for 25 minutes, and the scum taken
off, when the substance is ready for use. It
is malleable and ductile, and can be worked
in any form, even into leaves like gold. The
alloy may also be made by substituting gran-
ulated zinc for tin, but it will not retain its
brilliancy so long as when tin is employed.
3432. Talmi Gold. A beautiful gold-
colored alloy, sold under the above name,
gives, on analysis: copper, 86.4; zinc, 12.2;
tin, 1.1 ; iron, 0.3. The presence of the iron
was probably accidental.
3433. Yellow Dipping Metal. Melt
together 2 parts brass, 1 part copper, with a
little old brass, and Jounce tin to every pound
of copper. This alloy is almost of the color,
etc., of gold coin.
3434. Alloy of the Standard Mea-
sure used by Government. This is com-
posed of copper, 576 parts ; tip, 59 ; yellow
brass (22 copper to 1 of zinc), 48 parts.
3435. Dentists' Tin Alloys for Moulds.
The gold plates on which artificial teeth are
fastened, are fashioned to fit exactly to the
mouth by being hammered between a mould
and die, cast from a plaster model of the
mouth. The plaster model is obtained from
a mould of wax, pressed while soft into the
cavities of the mouth, and allowed to harden.
Duplicate moulds and dies are necessary, at
different stages of the hammering, in order to
obtain a perfectly fitting plate. The neces-
sary characteristics of the metals used for the
moulds and dies are fusibility, hardness, or
toughness, and,fespecially for the moulds, a
freedom from shrinkage in cooling. The
metal usually employed for the dies consists
of 8 parts tin, 1 part lead, and 1 part bismuth.
This compound is much harder than tin, melts
at a lower heat, shrinks little, or practically
none, in casting; is tough and strong. It
melts at about 330° Fahr. Although gener-
ally a harder and less fusible metal is used
for the first swaging, this alloy is particularly
convenient for taking duplicate dies for finish-
ing. Its tenacity adapts it for cases of partial
sets representing the teeth. The mould or
counter-die metal is made by adding to 1 part
of this mixture 6 parts of lead. The result is
harder than lead, and does not yield like it
under the blow^ presenting a resistance suffi-
cient to drive the plate up well against the
die. Its shrinkage is but slight ; it melts at
from 450° to 460°. It is designed for use
when the dipping process is resorted to. This
consists in pouring the melted metal into an
appropriately shaped vessel or mould, and
pressing the plaster model into the metal
before the moment of congelation. If used at
the point of congelation, the plaster cast may
be employed without previous baking ; other-
wise it should be baked to expel its water of
crystallization.
3436. Hard Tin Alloys for Dentists'
Moulds. The following formula affords a
highly useful alloy, where toughness as well
as hardness is essential : tin, 16 parts ; anti-
mony, 1 part; zinc, 1 part. This alloy is
much harder than the preceding die metal,
and equals it in tenacity, being suited for any
kind of die ; it requires a higher temperature
to melt it, but it melts sooner than tin, or
than the mould-metal mentioned in the pre-
ceding receipt, from a matrix of which a die
may be taken by it with safety. It affords,
in sand, a perfect die, does not shrink, and,
whether poured into a sand or metal mould,
comes out with a smooth, bright face. It is
the best combination of these three metals
for the purpose. But when dies are made of
it from sand moulds, and a more fusible metal
is needed for taking counter-dies or moulds
from them, it may be had by a combination
of 5 parts lead, 2 bismuth, and 1 tin ; or, 5
parts lead, 3 to 4 bismuth, and 1 tin afford
a still more fusible compound, although harder.
3437. Copper Alloys for Dentists'
Moulds. A very hard and most valuable
alloy for general use may be had by a mixture
of tin, 12 parts ; antimony, 2 parts ; copper,
1 part. It is not much inferior to zinc in
hardness, casts without sensible shrinkage,
and makes a perfect and very handsome die,
bright and smooth. It is less fusible than the
hard tin die metal in last receipt, but may be
used for taking dies from the mould-metal
mentioned in ifo. 3435; but, as it melts at
nearly the same temperature, this requires
care. It will be found of value in connection
with lead moulds made by dipping. (See No.
3435.) It is rather brittle for dies for partial
sets representing the teeth, as these are liable
to break on removing from the matrix; but it
is abundantly strong enough for swaging pur-
poses. In combining these metals (which
may be done in an ordinary charcoal furnace,
as it is by no means necessary to raise the
heat to the melting point of copper), place
the copper in a crucible and bring it to a red
heat, then pour in the tin and antimony,
melted, and cover the whole with charcoal
dust, to prevent oxidation. The copper will
soon liquefy, or dissolve, as it were, combining
perfectly with the other metals, without fur-
ther elevation of temperature. To guard
better against volatilization of antimony,
which takes place at a high red heat, it is
well enough to add to the copper but half the
tin at first, and when these are combined, add
the antimony, and then the remaining tin.
This also enables one to conduct the second
melting in a larger crucible, or, indeed, in an
iron ladle. It is best to let the melted mass
cool down some, before pouring it from the
crucible, as, if poured out at too high a heat,
the alloy oxidizes. A larger proportion of
antimony and zinc increases the hardness of
the metal, but with a tendency to imperfect
castings. If tin be used in larger quantit}T,
the alloy is, of course, softer, and it shrinks
when cast. The relative proportion of zinc
and antimony, in respect to each other, may
be somewhat varied, without material modi-
fication of the qualities of the compound ; but,
for the best results, the sum of these two met-
als should hold to the quantity of tin em-
ployed the ratio of about 1 to 8. For fluidity,
an excess of antimony over copper appears to
be requisite. For non-shrinkage, the joint
amount of antimony and copper should be to
the quantity of tin as about 1 to 4; as, for
example, 8 parts tin, 1 antimony, 1 copper;
or, 10 tin, l|- antimony, 1 copper ; or, 12 tin,
2 antimony, 1 copper. For taking counter-
dies or moulds from dies of the last named
alloys, a suitable metal, fusible at about 380°
ALLOYS.
315
Fahr., is had by a mixture of 3 parts lead, 1
part bismuth, and not over -pin part tin. It
is wonderful how small a quantity of tin
serves to improve the alloys of lead and bis-
muth, giving them a white, clear lustre,
preventing oxidation, promoting fusibility — in
short, producing almost a new metal.
3438. Cadinium Alloys for Dentists'
Moulds. By the use of cadmium we may
produce still harder alloys than any of the
preceding, possessing in an equal degree eveVy
other desirable quality.
1 part of antimony, 1
Thus, 10 parts of tin,
of copper, and 1 of
cadmium, produce a compound which has
about the hardness of zinc : it casts perfectly,
and is nearly all that could be desired, • except
that, like the copper die metals, it is rather
brittle for certain castings. (See No. 3437.)
Substituted for copper in these connections,
cadmium appears to confer greater hardness
and toughness, and, up to a certain point, pro-
motes fusibility. 9 parts of tin, 1 part of an-
timony, and 1 part cadmium, furnish a very
of tin have been added, the heat should be
reduced to a dull red, to prevent oxidation ;
then add the remainder of the metal as above.
Tn melting the composition, it is better to
keep a small quantity of powdered charcoal
on the surface of the metal. The above com-
position is called hardening. For lining the
boxes, take 1 pound of tnis hardening and
melt it with 2 pounds of Banca tin, which
produces the lining metal for use. Thus, the
proportions for lining metal are 4 pounds
copper, 8 pounds regulus of antimony, and 96
pounds Banca tin.
3446. Gongs and Cymbals. The secret
method employed by the Chinese /or working
the hard brittle bronze used for making gongs
and cymbals, seems to be solved by the fact
that the bronze of which these instruments are
made, consisting of copper alloyed with about
20 per cent, of tin, and almost as brittle as
glass at ordinary temperatures, becomes as
malleable as soft iron, if worked at a dull red
heat. This discovery was recently made in
the
hard and tough metal of a compact, homo- Paris, by M.M. Julien and Champion,
geneous structure, which casts without .shrink- \ result of experiments at the Paris Mint.
age, forming a perfect die with a smooth,
bright face,
point of tin.
It melts at about the melting
In the employment of cadmium,
care must be taken not to subject it to a heat
high enough to volatilize it. To avoid this
danger, it is best to unite the other metals
first, and then add the cadmium at a heat
barely sufficient to melt it. The great objec-
tion to this metal is its expensiveness.
3439. Alloy of Nickel and Copper.
A mixture of 1 part nickel and 2 parts copper
produces a grayish-white metal, tenacious,
ductile, and moderately fusible.
3440. Alloys of "Platinum and Cop-
per. A compound of 1 part platinum and 4
parts copper is of a yellow-pink color, hard,
ductile, and susceptible of a fine polish.
An alloy of 3 parts platinum and 2 parts
copper is nearly white, very hard, and brittle.
3441. French Bell Metal. The metal
used in France for hand-bells, clock bells <fcc.,
is made of 55 to GO parts copper, 30 to 40
parts tin, and 10 to 15 parts zinc.
3442. Bed Tombac. Put into a cruci-
ble 5£ pounds copper; when fused add £
pound zinc ; these metals will combine, form-
ing an alloy of a reddish color, but possessing
more lustre than copper, and also greater
durability.
3443. White Tombac. When copper
is combined with arsenic, by melting them
together in a close crucible, and covering the
surface with common salt, to prevent oxida-
tion, a white brittle alloy is formed.
3444. Speculum Metal for Tele-
scopes. Melt 7 pounds of copper, and when
fused add 3 pounds zinc and 4 pounds tin.
These metals will combine to form a beautiful
alloy of great lustre, and of a light yellow
color, fitted to be made into specula for tele-
scopes. Mr. Mudge used only copper and
grain tin, in the proportion of 2 pounds of
the former to 14^ ounces of the latter.
3445. Babbitt's Anti- Attrition Metal.
Melt 4 pounds copper, add by de'grees 12
pounds best quality Banca tin, 8 pounds
regulus of antimony, and 12 pounds more tin
while the composition is in a melted state.
After the copper is melted and 4 or 5 pounds j of copper, 4 of zinc, and 1 of tin, has ."been
3447. Phosphorus Bronzes. A great
advance has lately been made in the con-
struction of bronzes, by the addition of a small
percentage of phosphorus, although the pre-
cise function of this substance has not been
hitherto well understood. According to Levi
and Kunzel, however, one cause of the in-
feriority in bronze consists in the constant
presence of traces of tin in the state of an
oxide, which acts mechanically by separating
the molecules of the alloy, thus interposing
a substance which in itself has no tenacity.
The addition of phosphorus reduces this
oxide, and renders the alloy much more per-
fect, improving its color, its tenacity, and all
its physical properties. The grain of its
fracture resembles more that of steel, its
elasticity is much augmented, and its resist-
ance to pressure sometimes more than
doubled. Its durability is greater, and, when
melted, it is of greater fluidity, and fills the
mould iu its finest details.
3448. Fontainemoreau's Bronzes.
There is a kind of bronze known as Fontaine-
moreau's bronze, in which zinc predominates.
It is said to answer well for chill moulding,
that is, 'for pouring in metal moulds, by which
method it is rendered very homogeneous.
The crystalline nature of the zinc is entirely
changed by the addition of a small proportion
of copper, iron, &c. The alloy is hard, close-
grained, and resembles steel. Moreover, it is
easier to file than either zinc or copper. The
following table presents the proportions in
use :
Zinc.
Copper.
Cast Iron.
Lead.
90
8
1
1
91
8
0
1
92
8
0
0
92
7
1
0
97
2*
i
0
97
3 0
0
99 £
0
^
0
99
1
o
0
3449. TJse of Petroleum in Turning
Metals. A bronze composed of seven parts
316
FLUXES.
found to be so hard as to be difficult to work,
and yet of considerable value in certain ways
when worked. Tarious methods have been
attempted, aiming at effecting a ready work-
ing of this alloy, and M. Bechstein has recent-
ly, by soaking the alloy in petroleum, attained
this desirable end.
3450. To Clean Bronze. It was ob-
served in Berlin that those parts of a bronze
statue which were much handled by the
public retained a good surface, and this led to
the conclusion that fat had something to do
with it. An experiment was therefore tried
for some years with four bronzes. One, says
our authority — Chambers' Journal — was coat-
ed every day with oil, and wiped with a cloth ;
another was washed every day with water;
the third was similarly washed, but was
oiled twice a year; and the fourth was left
untouched. The first looked beautifully;
the third, which had been oiled twice a year,
was passable ; the second looked dead ; and
the fourth was dull and black.
3451. Engestroom Tutania. Melt
together 4 parts copper, 8 parts regulus of
antimony, and 1 part bismuth. "WTien added
to 100 parts of tin, this compound will be
ready for use.
3452. Tutenag. Melt together 8 parts
of copper, 5 parts of zinc, and 3 parts of
nickel.
3453. Kustitien's Metal for Tinning.
To 1 pound of malleable iron, at a white
heat, add 5 ounces regulus of antimony, and
24 pounds of the purest Molucca tin. This
alloy polishes without the blue tint, and is
free from lead or arsenic.
3454. Expansion Metal. Melt together
9 parts of lead, 2 parts of antimony, and 1
part bismuth.
3455. Fluid Alloy of Sodium and
Potassium. If 4 parts sodium are mixed
with 2£ potassium, the alloy will have exactly
the appearance and consistency of mercury,
remaining liquid at the ordinary temperature
of the air.
3456. Fusible Alloys. Bismuth, 8
parts; lead, 5 parts; tin, 3 parts; melt to-
gether. Melts below 212° Fahr. Or: Bis-
muth, 2 parts; lead, 5 parts; tin, 3 parts.
Melts in boiling water. Or : Lead, 3 parts ;
tin, 2 parts ; bismuth, 5 parts ; mix. Melts
at 197° Fahr. The above are used to make
toy-spoons, to surprise children by their
melting in hot tea or coffee; and to form
pencils for writing on asses' skin, or paper
prepared by rubbing burnt hartshorn into it.
The last may be employed as an anatomical
injection, by adding (after removing it from
the fire), 1 part quicksilver (warm). Liquid
at 172°; solid at 140° Fahr.
3457. Wood's Patent Fusible Metal
melts between 150° and 160° Fahr. It con-
sists of 3 parts cadmium, 4 tin, 8 lead, and 15
bismuth. It has a brilliant metallic lustre,
and does not tarnish readily.
3458. The Most Fusible Alloy.
There is an alloy of bismuth, tin, and lead,
which, from its very low melting point, is called
fusible metal. (See No. 3457). Dr. YonHauer
has found, however, that the addition of
cadmium to the alloys of the above mentioned
metals reduces their melting point still lower.
An alloy of 4 volumes cadmium, with 5
volumes each tin, lead, and bismuth, is quite
liquid at 150° Fahr. In parts by weight, the
above would be 224 parts cadmium, 517i
lead, 295 tin, and 1050 bismuth. (See No.
52). An alloy of 3 volumes of cadmium
with 4 each of tin, lead, and bismuth, fuses at
153^° Fahr, and an alloy of 1 equivalent of
cadmium with two equivalents each of these
three other metals, at 155^°, which is also
the fusing point of an alloy of 1 part each of all
the four metals. Dr. von Hauer made these
alloys by fusing their ingredients in a covered
porcelain crucible at the lowest practicable
temperature. They all become pasty at lower
temperatures than those given above; the
temperatures quoted are those at which the
alloys are perfectly fluid. It should be added
that, unfortunately, all these alloys very
rapidly oxidize when placed in water.
3459. Table of Alloys of Tin and
Lead and their Melting Heats.
Tin.
Lead.
Bismuth.
Fahr.
1
25
0
558°
1
10
0
541
1
5
0
511
1
3
0
482
1
2
0
441
1
1
0
370
H
1
0
334
2
1
0
340
3
n
0
356
4
i
0
365
5
i
0
378
6
i
0
381
4
4
1
320
3
3
1
310
2
2
1
292 •
1
1
1
254
1
2
2
236
5
3
3
202
3
5
8
197
This term is applied to sub-
stances of easy fusibility, which are
added to others more refractory, to promote
their fusion. Various fluxes are given in
other portions of this work (see Soldering and
Enamels'), but the principal fluxes are the fol-
lowing :
3461. Black Flux. Cream of tartar, 2
parts; nitre, 1 part; powder, mix, and defla-
grate by small quantities at a time, in a red
hot crucible. This is merely carbonate of
potash, mixed with charcoal in a finely-divi-
ded state. It is used for smelting metallic
ores, and exercises a reducing action, as well
as promoting the fusion. (See No. 11.)
3462. White, or Cornish Refining
Flux. Cream of tartar and nitre, equal parts;
deflagrate as last.
3463. Morveau's Reducing Flux.
Powdered glass (free from lead), 8 parts ;
calcined borax and charcoal, each 1 part ; all
in fine powder, and triturated together thor-
oughly. Used as black flux. (See No. 3461.)
3464. Flux for Reducing Lead Ore.
Take 6 parts red argol, 4 parts nitre, 2 parts
borax, and 1 part fluorspar; pulverize well
and mix thoroughly.
SOLDERING AND WELDING.
317
3465. Cornish Reducing Flux. Crude
tartar, 10 parts; nitre, 4 parts; borax, 3 parts.
Mix as the last.
3466. Crude Flux. Same as Hack flux,
(see No. 3461), omitting the deflagration.
TTsed for reducing. (See No. 26.)
3467. Liebig's Flux. Carbonate of
soda (dry, see No. 2065), and cyanide of po-
tassium, 1 part each. Used for reducing ar-
senious acid.
3468. Fresenius' Flux. Carbonate of
potassa (dry), (see No. 2065), 3 parts; cya-
nide of potassium, 1 part. For the arsenical
compounds.
3469. Christison's Flux for Arsenic.
Carbonate of soda, (crystallized), 8 parts;
charcoal (in fine powder), 1 part ; mixture is
gradually to be heated to redness.
3470. Flux for Copper. Sal-enixum
(the refuse from aquafortis), to be obtained
at most of the chemical works at a trifling
cost, is strongly recommended by Larkin as a
general flux for copper foundings, particular-
ly where large masses of copper have to be
melted prior to adding the tin and zinc.
Nothing is equal to it. This, with char-
coal, surpasses everything else.
3471. Various Fluxes. Borax, tartar,
nitre, sal-ammoniac, common salt, limestone,
glass, fluorspar, resin, and several other sub-
stances are used as fluxes in fusing metals,
and soldering. On the large scale crude tar-
tar is employed. (See No. 3472.)
Ooldering and Welding.
k-J Soldering is the art of uniting the sur-
faces of metals by partial fusion, and the in-
sertion of an alloy between the edges, which
is called solder, it being more fusible than the
metals which it unites. Solders are distin-
fuished as hard and soft, according to their
ifficulty of fusion. Hard solders usually
melt only at a red heat, but soft solders fuse
at lower temperatures. In order to join me-
tals, it is obvious that a solder must be used
that melts at a lower temperature than the
metals to be joined ; but it may also be ne-
cessary that it approach as nearly as possible
to them in point of hardness ; and occasional-
ly, as is especially the case with jewelry,
similarity of color is an object. The heat
requisite for soldering small articles, such as
jewelry, etc., is usually obtained by employ-
ing a common blowpipe ; as by its use a sud-
den heat may be concentrated on a small
point. Where a larger surface has to be
heated, the flame of a spirit lamp is used.
For brazing, or uniting larger objects with
hard solder, a furnace, or, if necessary, a forge,
may be employed. In working tin plates,
the solder is applied and fused by n heated
copper tool called a soldering-iron. The sur-
faces of parts to be joined by soldering must
be perfectly clean; and in order to ensure
this, as well as to counteract the oxidization
which most metals undergo when heated, a
flux is used (see No. 3479), which neutralizes
or removes these otherwise serious impedi-
ments, securing a firm joint.
3473. To Make Soldering Fluid for
Soft Solder. Into muriatic acid put small
pieces of zinc until all bubbling ceases ; some
add 1 ounce sal-ammoniac to each pound of
the liquid.
3474. Neutral Soldering Fluid. Dis-
solve zinc in muriatic acid as above, then
warm the solution and add sufficient oxide or
carbonate of tin in powder to neutralize it.
This prevents the fluid from corroding the
seams.
3475. Soldering Liquid. Soldering
liquid is made by taking hydrochloric acid,
J pint ; granulated tin, 1£ ounce ; dissolve
and add some common solder and hydrochlo-
rate of ammonia.
3476. Flux for Soldering. For com-
mon purposes powdered resin is generally
used. Stearic acid, obtained from the candle
factories, makes a good flux for fine tin work.
3477. Flux for Soldering Iron or
Steel. Dissolve chloride of zinc in alcohol.
3478. Flux for Soldering Steel. This
answers perfectly when the fracture is an old
one. To a saturated solution of zinc in 1
pint muriatic acid, add 4 ounces pulverized
sal-ammoniac ; boil it for 10 minutes ; put it,
when cold, in a well corked bottle. The boil-
ing must be done in a copper vessel.
3479. Soft Soldering. The solder is an
alloy of 2 parts tin to 1 part lead, fusible at
340C Fahr.; or, for cheapness, the proportion
is sometimes 3 to 2, fusible at 334°. This
substance is applied with a hot copper tool
called a soldering-iron, or by blowpipe flame.
Heat, however, causes the edges of the metal
to oxidize; therefore the edges are covered
with a substance having a strong attraction
for oxygen, and disposing the metal to unite
to the solder at a low temperature. Such
substances are called fluxes, and are chiefly
borax, resin, sal-ammoniac, muriate of zinc,
Venice turpentine, tallow, or oil.
3480. Flux for Soldering Brass. For
brass or other similar alloy, resin, sal-ammo-
niac, and muriate of zinc are the proper fluxes.
Should the work be heavy and thick, the sol-
dering requires to be done over a charcoal
fire in order to keep the tool heated within
proper limits. It is as well to tin the surfaces
before soldering; in some cases simply dip-
ping into a pot of melted solder effects the
purpose, but the dip must be done instantly
to be effective.
3481. Flux for Soldering Zinc. Zinc
is difficult to solder, from the fact that it is
apt to withdraw the tin from the soldering
bolt, zinc and copper having a stronger affin-
ity for each other than tin and copper. The
proper flux is muriate of zinc, made by dis-
solving small bits of zinc or zinc drops in
muriatic acid mixed with an equal bulk of
water.
3482. Flux for Soldering Tin and
Lead. Tin and lead require resin or oil as
the flux.
3483. Flux for Soldering Pewter.
Pewter requires a flux of oil, and may, in ad-
dition to the soldering-iron process, bo solder-
ed by a current of heated air.
3484. Flux for Soldering Britannia
Metal. Britannia metal should nave muriate
of zinc for a flux, and be soldered by the
blowpipe.
3485. To Solder Iron. Iron requires the
surfaces to be tinned over before being sol-
dered; the method is given in No. 3515.
318
SOLDERING AND WELDING.
3486. To Soft Solder Small Articles.
Join together the parts to be soldered, first
moistening them with soldering fluid (see No.
3473), lay a small piece of solder over the
joint and apply heat, either over a spirit
flame, or by means of the blowpipe, as the
case may be. The heat should be withdrawn
at the moment of fusion, otherwise the solder
may become brittle.
3487. To Soft Solder Smooth Sur-
faces. "Where two smooth surfaces are to be
joined, moisten the surfaces with soldering
fluid (see No. 3473), and lay a piece of tin foil
between them, press them together closely,
and apply heat sufficient to fuse the tin foil.
3488. Hard Soldering or Brazing.
The alloy used in hard soldering is generally
made of equal parts of copper and zinc ; much
of the zinc, however, is lost in the process, so
that the real proportion is not equal parts.
The alloy is heated over a charcoal fire, and
broken to granulations in an iron mortar. A
different proportion is used for soldering cop-
per and iron, viz. : 3 zinc to 1 copper. The
commercial name is "spelter solder."
3489. Flux for Spelter Solder. The
flux employed for spelter solder is borax,
which can either be used separately, or mixed,
by rubbing to a cream, or mixed with the
solder in a very little water.
3490. To Hard Solder. When the
work is cleaned, bound, fluxed, and speltered,
the whole is subjected to a clear charcoal or
coke fire ; or, what is now becoming far more
general, convenient, cleanly, and manageable,
a bellows blowpipe. The air passes from a
bellows propelled by the foot through A
(See Engraving.) The gas passes through B,
and the flame can be directed to any point,
on account of its being hinged at C C. The
flame can be extended by using several stands,
or by constructing several burners on one
stand. The heat is much greater than from
charcoal, can be regulated at pleasure, and
kept at the same temperature for any given
time. In the process of hard soldering, the
water should be driven off by gentle neat ;
the fusion of the flux soon follows ; a glassy
substance appears after the froth, which, in
its turn, is replaced by the alloy in red liquid
form ; the blue flame from the ignited zino
informs the operator that the solder now fuses,
so that, as soon as the work is flushed with
solder, it must be withdrawn, allowed to set,
and cooled in water.
3491. To Make Sclder. The mixture
of the metals is performed by melting them
together in the same manner as for alloys
(see No. 3347), with the aid of a flux. The
metals employed should be pure, especially
silver, as silver coin makes the solder too
hard.
3492. Solder for Gold. Take 12 parts
pure gold, 2 parts pure silver, and 2 parts
copper.
3493.' Solder for Silver. Take 5 parts
pure silver — not silver coin— 6 parts brass,
and 2 parts zinc. Or, 2 parts silver, 1 part
common pins. This is an easy flowing solder.
Use a gas jet to solder with.
3494. Hard Solder. Take 2 parts cop-
per and 1 part zinc. Or, equal parts of copper
and zinc. (See No. 3488.)
3495. Solder for Silver. Take 19
parts fine silver, 1 part copper, and 10 parts
brass.
3496. Silver Solder. Melt together 34
parts, by weight, silver coin, and 5 parts cop-
per ; after cooling a little, drop into the mix-
ture 4 parts zinc, then heat again.
3497. Fine Silver Solder. Melt in a
clean crucible, 19 parts pure silver, 10 parts
brass, and 1 part copper ; add a small piece of
borax as a flux.
3498. Solder for Copper. Same as
hard soldering. (See No. 3488.)
3499. Solder for Tin. Take 4 parts
pewter, 1 part tin, and 1 part bismuth. Use
powdered resin when soldering.
3500. Fine Soft Solder. Take 2 parts
tin and 1 part lead. Used for soldering tin
plates, and tinning copper. Add resin as a
flux when melting.
3501. Very Soft Solder. Equal parts
of tin, lead, and bismuth.
3502. Solder for Pewter. Take 2
parts tin, 1 part each of lead and bismuth.
3503. Glaziers' Solder. Take 3 parts
lead and 1 part tin. This melts at 500° Fahr.
3504. Solder Fusible in Boiling "Wa-
ter. Take 1 part tin, 1 part lead, and 2 parts
bismuth.
3505. Plumbers' Solder. Take 1 part
bismuth, 5 parts lead, and 3 parts tin.
3506. Solder for Lead. Take 2 parts
lead and 1 part tin. This is good, if, when a
small quantity is poured on a table, little
bright spots rise as it cools. "When soldering
with this, use powdered resin.
3507. Brass Solder. Take 12 parts
brass, 6 parts zinc, and 1 part tin.
3508. Strong Brass Solder. Take 3
parts brass and 1 part zinc.
3509. To Solder Fine Brass Work.
Wet the parts with a strong solution of sal-
ammoniac, apply tin foil between them, and
heat no more than is necessary to fuse the
tin.
3510. To Solder Iron. Apply good
tough brass (see No. 3358) with borax mixed
with water to the consistence of cream. (See
No. 3488.)
3511. Solder for Joining Steel. This is
better than the usual brass solder, for uniting
SOLDERING AND WELDING.
319
cast-steel, &c., as it fuses at a lower tempera-
ture; and, being whiter in appearance, renders
the seams less observable. Take 19 parts, by
weight, fine silver ; 1 part copper, and 2 parts
brass ; melt them under a coat of charcoal
dust.
3512. Brass Solder for Brazing Iron
or Steel. Thin plates of brass are to be
melted between the pieces that are to be join-
ed. If the work be very fine — as when two
leaves of a broken saw are to be brazed
together — cover it with pulverized borax, dis-
solved in water, that it may incorporate with
some brass powder which is added to it ; the
piece must be then exposed to the fire with-
out touching the coals, and heatdfl till the
brass is seen to run.
3513. To Solder Ferrules for Tool
Handles, &c. Take the ferrule, lap round
the jointing a small piece of brass wire, then
just wet the ferrule, scatter ground borax on
the joining, put it on the end of a wire, and
hold it in the fire till the brass fuses. It will
fill up the joining, and form a perfect solder.
It may afterwards be turned in the lathe.
3514. To Tin Iron for Soldering, &c.
Drop zinc shavings into muriatic (nydro-
chloric) acid, until it will dissolve no more;
then add J its bulk of soft water. Iron, how-
ever rusty, will be cleansed by this solution,
and receive from it a sufficient coating of
zinc for solder to adhere to. (See No. 3642.)
3515. To Solder Grey Cast-Iron.
First dip the castings in alcohol, after which,
sprinkle muriate of ammonia (sal-ammoniac)
over the surface to be soldered. Then hold
the casting over a charcoal fire till the sal-
ammoniac begins to smoke, then dip it into
melted tin (not solder). This prepares the
metal for soldering, which can then be done
in the ordinary way.
3516. Solder for Iron. Fuse together
67 parts copper and 33 parts zinc. Or : 60
parts copper and 40 parts zinc.
3517. Hard Solder for Copper or
Brass. Take 13 parts copper and 1 part zinc.
Or : 7 copper, 3 zinc and 2 tin.
3518. Solder for Brass in General.
Take 4 parts of scraps of the metal to be sol-
dered, and 1 part zinc.
3519. To Make Solder-Drops. Melt
the solder, and pour it in a steady stream of
about -J- inch in diameter, from a height of 2
or 3 inches, into cold water ; taking care that
the solder, at the time of pouring, is no hotter
than is just necessary for fluidity.
3520. Aluminum Solder. Mouray
employs five different solders, being different
proportions of zinc, copper, and aluminum.
The copper is melted first, the aluminum is
then added in 3 or 4 portions ; when the whole
is melted, it is stirred with an iron rod. The
crucible is then withdrawn from the fire, the
zinc gradually stirred into the mass, and the
whole poured into ingot shaped moulds, pre-
viously wiped out with benzine. The parts
given in the following proportions are by
weight.
1. — 80 parts zinc, 8 parts copper, 12 parts aluminum.
2.— 85 " " 6 " "9 "
3.— 88 " » 5 " "7 "
4.— 90 " " 4 " "6 "
5 94 " " 2 •• "4 ••
3521. To Solder Aluminum. The
selection of either of the above solders de-
pends upon the nature of the object. In
order to quicken its fusion on the metal, a
mixture of 3 parts balsam of copaiba and 1
part Venice turpentine is made use of; other-
wise the operation is performed in exactly the
same manner as in the brazing of other met-
als. The aluminum solder is spread without
delay on the previously heated surfaces to be
fastened together. In heating, the blue gas(
flame or the turpentine blast lamp is em-'
ployed. The more and oftener the solder is
spread over the surface, the better it is.
3522. Aluminum Solder. If soft sol-
der is fused with one-half, one-fourth, or one^
eighth of its weight of zinc amalgam (to be
made by dissolving zinc in mercury, see No.
3539), a more or less hard and easily-fusible
solder is obtained, which may be used to
solder aluminum to itself or to other metals.
3523. Welding Powder for Iron and
Steel. For welding iron and steel a compo-
sition has lately been patented in Belgium,
consisting of iron filings, 40 parts ; borax, 20
parts ; balsam of copaiba, or some other resin-
ous oil, -2 ; and sal-ammoniac, 3 parts. They
are mixed, heated, and pulverized. The pro-
cess of welding is much the same as usual.
The surfaces to be welded are powdered with
the composition, and then brought to a
cherry-red heat, at which the powder melts,
when the portions to be united are taken from
the fire and joined. If the pieces to be welded
are too large to be both introduced at the same
time into the forge, one can be first heated
with the welding powder to a cherry-red
heat, and the others afterwards to a white
heat, after which the welding may be effected.
3524. "Welding Composition for Cast
Steel. Take borax, 10 parts ; sal-ammoniac,
1 part ; grind or pound them roughly together,
then fuse them in a metal pot over a clear fire,
taking care to continue the heat until all
spume has disappeared from the surface.
When the liquid appears clear, the composi-
tion is ready to be poured out to cool and con-
crete; afterwards, being ground to a fine
powder, it is ready for use. To use this com-
position, the steel to be welded is first
raised to a bright yellow heat, it is then dip-
ped among the welding powder, and again
placed in the fire, until it attains the same
degree of heat as before; it is then ready to be
placed under the hammer.
3525. Welding Powder. For iron or
steel, or both together, calcine and pulverize
together 100 parts iron or steel filings, 10 sal-
ammoniac, 6 borax, 5 balsam copaiba. One
of the pieces is to be heated red, carefully
cleaned of scale, the composition is to be
spread upon it, and the other piece applied
at a white heat and welded with the hammer.
3526. Welding Composition. Fuse
borax with ~fa its weight saT-ammouiac, cool,
pulverize, and mix with an equal weight of
quicklime, when it is to be sprinkled on the
red hot iron and the latter replaced in the
fire.
3527. Welding Composition. Take 15
parts borax, 2 of sal-ammoniac, and 2 of prus-
siate of potash. Being dissolved in water, the
water should be gradually evaporated at a low
temperature.
3528. Welding Composition. Mix 10
parts borax with 1 part sal-ammoniac; fuse
320
AMALGAMS.
the mixture, and pour it on an iron plate.
When cold, pulverize it, and mix it with an
equal weight of quicklime, sprinkle it on iron
heated to redness, and replace it in the fire.
It may be welded below the usual heat.
3529. Compound for Welding Steel.
The following composition is said to be su-
perior to borax for welding steel. Mix
coarsely powdered borax with a thin paste of
Prussian blue; then let it dry. The combi-
nation seems to be a rational one.
3530. Antimonoid. A welding powder,
named antimonoid, has been in use for some
time past in Germany, and found to be of
great efficiency. The" formula for its prepara-
tion has, until lately, been kept a secret; it
consists of 4 parts iron turnings, 3 parts
borax, 2 parts borate of iron, and 1 of water.
3531. Fluxes for Soldering and "Weld-
ing.
For Iron or steel Borax or sal-ammoniac.
Tinned iron Resin or chloride of zinc.
Copper and brass Sal-ammoniac or chloride
Zinc Chloride of zinc, [of zinc.
Lead Tallow or resin.
Lead and tin pipes Resin and sweet oil.
Amalgams. Substances formed
by mixing quicksilver with another
metal. Alloys containing quicksilver. Mer-
cury unites with most of the metals by mere
contact, forming amalgams. These are em-
ployed for various purposes in the arts, as
silvering, gilding, coating mirrors, «fec.
3533. Amalgam of Gold for Gilding
Brass, Copper, &c. Place one part grain
or leaf gold in a small iron saucepan or ladle,
perfectly clean, then add 8 parts mercury, and
apply a'gentle heat, when the gold will dis-
solve; agitate the mixture for one minute
with a smooth iron stirrer, and pour it out on
a clean plate or stone slab. When cold it is
ready for use.
3534. To Gild with Gold Amalgam.
For gilding brass, copper, <fec. The metal to
be gilded is first rubbed over with a solution
of nitrate of mercury, and then covered with
a very thin film of the amalgam. On heat
being applied, the mercury volatilizes, leaving
the gold behind. A much less proportion of
gold is often employed than the above, where
a very thin and cheap gilding is required, as,
by increasing the quantity of the mercury, the
precious metal may be extended over a much
larger surface. (See No. 3394.)
3535. Amalgam of Silver for Silver-
ing Metals. Prepare in the same way as
amalgam of gold, but substitute silver instead
of gold. (See No. 3533.)
3536. To Obtain Pure Silver in
Powder. The best process to obtain pure
silver in powder, is by adding copper to a
dilute solution of silver in nitric acid, until all
action ceases. The silver is precipitated in a
fine powder. Before using the silver powder
to prepare amalgam, it must be thoroughly
washed until the water ceases to have any
acid taste, or litmus paper is unchanged by
it. (See Nos. 3212, ^-c.) The silver In this
form, besides being necessarily purer, amal-
gamates more readily with the quicksilver.
3537. To Make a Solution of Silver.
Dissolve a silver coin in slightly diluted nitric
acid. Mexican coin is preferable, because it
is purer. (See .Yo. 3213.)
3538. Amalgam for Silvering the
Insides of Convex Mirrors, Glass
Globes, &c. Lead and tin, of each 2 ounces ;
bismuth, 2 ounces ; mercury, 4 ounces. Add
the mercury to the rest in a melted state and
remove from the fire ; mix well with an iron
rod. This amalgam melts at a low heat, and
is employed for silvering the insides of hollow
glass vessels, globes, convex mirrors, <fec.
The glass, being well cleaned, is carefully
warmed, and the amalgam, rendered fluid by
heat, is then poured in, and the vessel turned
round and round, so that the metal may be
brought !n contact with every part of the
glass which it is desired to cover. At a cer-
tain temperature this amalgam readily ad-
heres to glass. (See Nos. 3545, and 3614.)
3539. To Make Zinc Amalgam for
Electrical Machines. Melt 2 ounces zinc
in a ladle, remove from the fire, and stir into
it 5 ounces mercury previously heated. Stir
till cold, and then powder it. Keep it in a
tightly corked bottle.
3540. Improved Electric Amalgam.
It is well known that a deposit of moisture
greatly interferes with the action of electrical
machines, experiments often wholly failing
from this cause, especially in the winter
season. Mr. F. Dietlen, of Klagenfurt, has
devised a method by which he obviates this
difficulty, consisting simply in a modification
of the amalgamation of the rubber cushion.
For this purpose he pours petroleum over
zinc filings, and adds an equal quantity of
mercury (though an excess of mercury facili-
tates the process). The mixture is then
brought, by working together in a mortar, to
the condition of a homogeneous paste, and
pressed between a double cloth. A soft mass
is thus obtained, which, however, soon hard-
ens; but which, being finely pulverized and
mixed with a proper quantity of grease, is
spread upon the rubber cushion. This makes
the surface quite glossy, and, when the glass
disk has previously been wiped with a piece
of cotton slightly impregnated with petroleum
or benzine, will develop electricity abund-
antly, even in damp localities where the
usual arrangement fans.
3541. Boettger's Amalgam for
Electrical Machines. Boettger recom-
mends a mixture of 2 parts (by weight) of
pure zinc, while melted, to be mixed with 1
part of mercury. This should be kept in
pieces in a well-stoppered flask, and is said to
be superior to the amalgam made of 2 parts
mercury, 1 zinc, and 1 tin.
3542. Tin Amalgam. Amalgam of
tin forms readily by introducing the solid
metal into the mercury. In this way hexag-
onal crystalline formations have been ob-
served ; there is always a decided contraction
in bulk. The hard amalgam of tin obtained
by passing the liquid amalgam through fine
leather, then drying, and afterwards rubbing
under water, forms one of the plastic cements
for filling teeth. (See No. 3553). It hardens
within a few days, and is, besides, used for
hermetically closing glass tubes. Mixed with
a little silver amalgam it is a less plastic mass
and requires a little more mercury, but it
hardens much sooner.
AMALGAMS.
321
3543. Copper Amalgam. Copper
amalgam is best obtained by first precipitat-
ing metallic copper in a fine state of division
from a solution of 3 ounces of blue vitriol in a
quart of water mixed with an ounce of oil of
vitriol, by means of clean wrought iron ;
then, after washing it thoroughly with hot
water, moistening the powder with a solution
of proto-nitrate of mercury, and finally in-
corporating it under water in a mortar with
the required quantity of mercury. This
amalgam, like the hard amalgam of tin, has
the property of being softened and rendered
plastic by mere trituration with a pestle.
The proportions are generally 3 parts of cop-
per to 7 of mercury.
3544. Tin and Cadmium Amalgam.
Similar properties to tin and copper amalgams
belong to the compound amalgam of tin. and
cadmium, which are fused together in the
proportion of 2 to 1 and mixed with wanned
mercury in excess, which latter is removed
by pressure when cold. (See No. 3549.)
3545. Amalgam for Silvering Glass
Ornaments. The silver coating of glass
beads and thoso large sized glass ornaments
now in fashion, is produced by shaking within
them an amalgam composed of 8 parts bis-
muth, 5 of lead, 3 of tin, and from 7 to 9
parts of mercury. (See No. 3538.) A mix
turo of 2 parts each tin and bismuth and 1 of
mercury, when powdered, is used for painting
as imitation silver bronzes.
3546. Amalgams of the Alkaline
Metals. The amalgams of the alkaline
metals are remarkable for their hardness,
though the metals sodium and potassium
themselves are quite soft at the ordinary
temperature. One per cent, of sodium in
mercury produces an amalgam which is
liquid, but still quite thick, and i per cent,
of potassium renders the mercury still more
so. A very hard compound is that consisting
of 200 parts of mercury, 10 of potassium, and
1 of sodium. By means of the alkaline amal-
gams, most other mercurial alloys may be
produced, by introducing them into the solu-
tion of other metals. Zinc amalgam is like-
wise used for the purpose.
3547. Amalgam of Fusible Metal.
Fusible metal forms an amalgam with ^ of
its weight of mercury, which fuses far below
the boiling point of water; cadmium increases
the fusibility still more. A mixed amalgam
for injecting anatomical preparations, which is
hard at ordinary temperature, but becomes
soft at 150°, and fuses at 176° Fahr., consists
of 20 parts of bismuth, 12 of lead, 7 of tin,
and 4 of mercury. (See Nos. 3456, ^-c.)
3548. Amalgam for Varnishing
Plaster Casts. Melt together 1 part each
tin and bismuth, and stir in thoroughly 1 part
mercury. When cool, pound the amalgam
with white of egg, forming a metallic paint
which may be laid on with a brush.
3549. Evans' Tooth Amalgam. Take
of pure grain tin, 2 parts; cadmium and
bees' wax, of each 1 part ; melt them together
in a porcelain crucible at a heat not exceed-
ing 600° Fahr., and cast the alloy so as to
form a small ingot, which, when cold, must
be reduced to filings. For use, a small
quantity of these filings is formed into an
amalgam with quicksilver, the excess of the
latter is squeezed out through a piece of
chamois leather, and the amalgam at once
applied to the tooth. (See No. 3550.) This
cement is recommended by Mr. Evans as very
durable and unobjectionable. Its color is
intermediate between that of silver and tin,
but it is said not to darken so readily as the
simple amalgams of those metals. (See No.
3544.)
3550. Dentists' Amalgam, or Gold
Stopping. The dentists, in preparing and
using this, commonly proceed as follows : A
little pure grain-gold is heated in a bright
iron ladle (or capsule), and enough pure
mercury added to render it of a doughy con-
sistence at the temperature of hot water.
When it has become cold, the excess of mer-
cury, if any, is removed by pressure in a piece
of chamois leather. In using it, a little of
the amalgam, as hot as can be borne, is
kneaded in the hand, and at once pressed
into the cavity of the tooth, where it gradual-
ly hardens. It is an excellent and durable
stopping, and is, perhaps, preferable to all
others, except the diamond tooth cement (see
Index) for filling up cracks and cavities in the
enamel, particularly of the front teeth, on
account of its color and the ease of its appli-
cation.
3551. Dentists' A-ma.1gfl.Tn of Silver
is used in the same way as the last ; but its
color is less natural, and is apt to be blackened
by the sulphur in the secretions of the mouth
and the food. (See No. 3535.)
3552. Dentists' Amalgams of Tin
and Zinc are also employed as tooth cement,
but are inferior in color to, darken sooner,
and possess less durability, than that of
silver.
3553. Alloy for Filling Teeth. An
alloy, which is sold in commerce in the shape
of large, almost white filings, shows upon
analysis the following composition : Tin, 611 ;
silver, 388; copper, 1. The alloy is to bo
amalgamated before use by warming it in a
spoon with a little mercury. The combina-
tion takes place rapidly, and the amalgam,
while still warm, is pressed in a piece of soft
leather, whereby the excess of mercury is re-
moved. It is now far preferable to the cele-
brated copper amalgam, as it retains its white
color in the mouth, while the other turns
dark. The hardness is a little less th.au that
of the copper amalgam. (See No. 3542.)
3554. To Becover the Silver Alloy
from Dentists' Amalgam. The silver
alloy may be easily obtained from scraps of
dentists' "amalgam in the following manner:
Provide 2 crucibles of different sizes, so that
the smaller one, inverted, will rest a little way
within the larger. Make a hole, about i inch
in diameter, in the bottom of the smalle^ to
provide a vent for the mercurial vapors.
Place the pieces of amalgam in the larger
crucible, invert the smaller one into it, Into
them, and fasten them firmly together with
steel wire. Place the whole, as soon as the
luting is dry, into a blast furnace, and in a
short time the mercury will all have passed
off in vapor, when the crucible may be set
aside to cool, and the alloy will be found in a
button at the bottom. As some portion of
the tin in the alloy has been lost in the opera-
tion, the button should be remelted in a clean
322
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
open crucible, with the addition of a little
pure tin. This will now be ready to make
again into amalgam as occasion requires.
3555. B.uhmkorf's Amalgamating
Fluid. Dissolve by heat 2 parts by weight
of mercury in 1 part aqua regia; when dis-
solved, add 10 parts hydrochloric acid. A
worn-out zinc will be amalgamated in a few
seconds by immersion in this fluid.
, Silvering, &c.
ln this department we give processes for
gilding and silvering wood, metals, paper, and
glass ; together with a number of receipts for
coating various metals with other metallic
deposits.
3557. Implements for Gilding on
Wood. A sufficient quantity of leaf-gold,
which is of two sorts — deep gold, and pale, or
lemon gold. The former is the best ; the lat-
ter very useful, and may occasionally be intro-
duced for variety or effect.
A gilder's cushion; an oblong piece of
wood, covered with rough calf-skin, stuffed
with flannel several times doubled, with a
border of parchment, about 4 inches deep at
one end, to prevent the air blowing the leaves
about when placed on the cushion.
A gilding knife, with a straight and very
smooth edge, sharp enough to cut the gold,
but not sufficiently so to cut the cushion. It
must be perfectly clean, or the gold leaf will
adhere to it.
Several camel's-hair pencils of assorted sizes;
and tips, made of a few long camel's hairs put
between two cards, in the same manner as
hairs are put into tin cases for brushes, thus
making a flat brush with a very few hairs.
A burnisher, which is a crooked piece of
agate set in a long wooden handle.
3558. Burnished Gilding. This style
of gilding is adapted for fine work, such as
picture frames and other fancy furniture.
We shall endeavor to give the necessary in-
structions, in the following receipts, to those
who wish to undertake this kind of work,
and with care and practice they may perform
the operation successfully.
3559. To Make Size for Preparing
Picture Frames and Other Wood Work
for Gilding. To i pound parchment shav-
ings, or cuttings of white leather, afld 3 quarts
water, and boil it in a proper vessel till re-
duced to nearly half the quantity; then take it
off the fire, and strain it through a sieve. Be
careful, in the boiling, to keep it well stirred,
and do not let it burn.
3560. To Prepare or Whiten Picture
Frames or Wood Work. First, with the
above size alone, and boiling-hot, go over the
frames in every part: then mix a sufficient
quantity of whiting with size, to the consist-
ency of thick cream, with which go over every
part of the frame 6 or 7 times, carefully
letting each coat dry before proceeding with
the next; this will produce a white ground,
nearly or quite ^ inch in thickness. The size
must not be too thick, and, when mixed with
the whiting, should not be put on as hot as
the first coat is by itself. It will be better
to separate the dirty or coarse parts of the
whiting by straining it through a sieve.
3561. To Clean and Polish Frames.
"When the prepared frames are quite dry,
clean arid polish them. To do this, wet a
small piece at a time, and, with a smooth, fine
piece of cloth, dipped in water, rub the part
till all the inequalities are removed , and for
those parts where the fingers will not enter,
as the mouldings, <fec., wind the wet cloth
round a piece of wood, and by this means
make the surface all equally smooth and
even. Where there is carved work, &c., it
will sometimes be necessary to bring the
mouldings to their original sharpness by
means of chisels, gouges, &c., as the prepara-
tion will be apt to fill up all the finer parts of
the work, which must be thus restored. It is
sometimes the practice, after polishing, to go
over the work once with fine yellow or Roman
ochre.
3562. To Make Gold Size for Frames.
Grind fine sal-ammoniac well with a muller
and stone; scrape into it a little beef-suet,
and grind all well together ; after which mix
in with a pallet knife a small proportion
of parchment size with a double proportion of
water.
3563. Gold Size for Picture Frames.
Grind a lump of tobacco pipe clay into a very
stiff paste with thin size; add a small quantity
of red ochre and fine black lead, ground very
fine, and temper the whole with a small piece
of tallow.
3564. To Prepare Picture Frames for
Gilding. Take a small cup or pipkin, into
which put as much gold size as you judge suf-
ficient for the work in hand ; add parchment
size till it will just flow from the brush; when
quite hot, pass over your work with ar very
soft brush, taking care not to put the first
coat too thick ; let it dry, and repeat it two
or three times more, and, when quite dry,
brush the whole with a stiff brush, to remove
any roughness. The work is now ready for
applying the gold. The parchment size
should be of such a consistence, when cold,
as the common jelly sold in the stores ; for if
too thick it will be apt to chip, and if too thin
it will not have sufficient body.
3565. To Apply Gold Leaf to Picture
Frames and Other Wood Work. This is
the most difficult part of the operation, and
requires some practice ; but, with a little cau-
tion and attention, it may be easily perform-
ed. Turn the gold out of the book onto the
cushion, a leaf at a time ; then, passing tho
gilding-knife under a leaf, bring it into a con-
venient part of the cushion for cutting it into
the size of the pieces required ; breathe gently
on tho centre of the leaf, and it will lay fiat
on the cushion ; then cut it to the proper sizo
by sawing it gently with the knife till divided.
Place the work in -a position nearly horizon-
tal, and, with a long-haired camcl's-hair pencil
dipped in water (or with a small quantity of
brandy in the water), go over as much of it as
the piece of gold is to coyer; then take up
the gold from the cushion with the tip ;
drawing it over the forehead or cheek will
damp it sufficiently to adhere to the gold,
which must then carefully be transferred to
its place on the work, and, gently breathing
on it, it will adhere; but take care that tho
part to which it is applied is sufficiently wet ;
indeed, it must be floating, or the gold will
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
323
be apt to crack. Proceed in this manner by a
little at a time, and do not attempt to cover
too much at once. Be careful, in proceeding
with the work, if any flaws or cracks appear,
to take a corresponding piece of gold, and ap-
with putty powder, till it is smooth as glass.
It must then be varnished over with fine lac
varnish several times, applying a slight degree
of heat after each coat. This may be done
by holding a hot iron near it till the varnish
ply it immediately ; sometimes, also, it will has flowed smooth and even over the surface.
be necessary, when the gold does not appear
to adhere sufficiently, to draw a pencil quite
filled with water close to the edge of the gold,
so that the water may run underneath it.
3566. To Burnish Gold. "When the
work is covered with gold, set it by to dry ;
it will be ready to burnish in about eight or
ten hours; but this will depend on the
warmth of the room or state of the air.
"When it is ready, those parts which are to be
burnished must be dusted with a soft brush,
and, wiping the burnisher with a piece of soft
wash-leather (quite dry), begin to burnish
about an inch or two in length at a time, tak-
ing care not to lean too hard, but with a
gentle and quick motion apply the tool till it
is equally bright all over.
3567. Matting, or Dead Gold.
Those
parts of the work which look dull from not
being burnished, are now to be matted, that
is, are to be made to look like dead gold ; for
if left in its natural state it will have a shi-
ning appearance, which must be thus rectified.
Grind some vermilion, or yellow ochre, very
fine, and mix a very small portion either with
the parchment size or with the white of an
egg, and with a very soft brush lay it even
and smooth on the parts intended to look
dull ; if well done, it will add greatly to the
beauty of the work. The work must be well
cleared of superfluous gold, by means of a soft
brush (a hat brush answers the purpose well),
previous to burnishing or matting.
3568. To Finish Gilding. It is now
only necessary to touch the parts in the hol-
lows with a composition made by -grinding
vermilion, gamboge, and red lead, very fine,
with oil of turpentine, and applying it care-
fully with a small brush in the parts required,
and inserting suitable bits of gold leaf with a
camel's-hair brush. Sometimes the finishing
is done by means of shell-gold, which is the
best method ; it should be diluted with gum-
arabic, and applied with a small brush.
3569. To Make Shell- Gold. Take any
quantity of leaf- gold, and grind it, with a
small portion of honey, to a fine powder ; add
a little gum-arabic and sugar candy, with a
little water, and mix it well together ; put it
in a shell to dry until wanted.
3570. Oil Gilding is that which is de-
signed for out-door work, to stand the weather
and wash, and is performed with oil and var-
nish. Where the object is to give a high
finish, paint the work with a color composed
of the finest white lead and yellow ochre, in
such proportions that the color shall be as
near as possible to the color of the gold to be
employed, mixed with oil (not boiled), and
turpentine, till of the consistence of thin
paint ; this to be laid on evenly, and allowed
to dry thoroughly, then repeat it for 5 or even
more coats, till it is perceived that the grain
or roughness of the object to be gilt is entire-
ly hidden. When the last coat is dry it must
be rubbed perfectly smooth, first with pumice
stone, and finished with a piece of woolen
cloth and finely pounded pumice ; and lastly,
When the last coat of varnish is quite hard it
must be polished ; this is done by putting on
a horse-hair glove, and rubbing the surface
with this first, then with Tripoli, applied with
a piece of wet woolen cloth ; and lastly, by
wet putty powder, first applied with woolen
cloth, then with the bare hand, till it is as
bright as glass. It must then be varnished
over with a thin coat (the thinner the better)
of gold size, and when sufficiently dry the
gold is to be applied, beginning at the part
that is dryest. When gilt, it is to be allowed
to remain for two or three days, and then
brushed over lightly with a camel's-hair brush
to remove superfluous gold. It is next to be
varnished with spirit varnish, applying heat
as before, then varnished with copal varnish
two or three times, allowing it to become
perfectly hard between each coat ; after the
last coat of varnish it is finished by polishing,
first with Tripoli, applied with a soft cloth and
water, and then with the bare hand and a lit-
tle oil, and wiped dry.
3571. Oil Size for Gilding. Grind cal-
cined red ochre with the best and oldest dry-
ing oil, and mix with it a little oil of turpen-
tine when used. When the work is to bo
gilded, first give it a coat of parchment size ;
then apply the above size where requisite,
either in patterns or letters, and let it remain,
till, by touching it with the finger, it feels
just sticky; then apply the gold leaf, and dab
it on with a piece ol cotton ; in about an hour
wash off the superfluous gold with sponge
and water, and when dry, varnish it with
copal varnish.
3572. Water Size. Water size (for
burnished gilding) is parchment size ground
with yellow ochre.
3573. To Prevent the Adhesion of
Gold Leaf. Painters and decorators will
find the following plan a good one to simplify
a most troublesome part of their work : A
small piece of ball liquorice, dissolved in
water, applied with a flat camel's-hair brush
to the place intended to be left ungilt, will
prevent the leaf adhering. The solution must
be weak. Made thick and gummy, it is very
useful to protect ornamental parts of work
that is to bo repainted.
3574. To Gild the Edges of Books
and Paper. The gold applied to the edges
of books, <fcc., is in the same state as for va-
rious ornamental purposes, namely, an ex-
tremely thin leaf. Before the case or cover
of the book is quite finished, the volume is
struck forcibly against the back, so as to make
the fore-edge flat instead of concave. It is
then placed in a press, with the exposed edge
uppermost. The edge is scraped smooth
with a piece of steel, and is coated with a
mixture of red chalk and water. The gold is
blown out from small books, and spread on a
leather cushion, where it is cut to the proper
size by a smooth-edged knife. A camel's-hair
pencil is dipped into white of egg mixed with
water, and with this the partially dry edge of
the book is moistened ; the gold is then taken
324:
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
up on a tip brush, and applied to the moist-
ened edge, to which it instantly adheres.
"When all the three edges have been gilt in
this way, and allowed to remain a very few
minutes, take a burnisher formed of a very
smooth piece of hard stone (usually blood-
stone), and rub the gold very forcibly,
which gives the gold a high degree of polish.
3575. Gilding1 on Glass. Mix powder-
ed gold (see No. 2617) with thick gum-arabic
and powdered borax. "With this trace the de-
sign on the glass, and then bake it in a hot
oven. Thus the gum is burnt, and the borax
is vitrified, at the same time the gold is fixed
on the glass.
Monograms and names may thus be gilded
on glass or china.
3576. To Gild with Dutch Metal.
The imitation of gold or silver leaf known as
Dutch metal is much used for common pur-
poses. The article to be gilded is prepared
with a coating of oil size, on which the metal
is laid. The sizing is not allowed to dry
quite so long as for gold or silver leaf; the
metal being laid on as soon as the size has set
sufficiently not to smear. Metal is not han-
dled with a gilding cushion and tip ; but the
books, with the metal in them, are cut into
pieces of the requisite shape, with a pair of
shears or scissors, and the metal leaf laid on
the sizing direct from the portions of the
book ; after which it is pressed close by means
of a roller covered with flannel, and finally
brushed over the same as gold leaf, being
careful to brush with and not against the
overlap. "White Dutch metal, nicely managed,
and flowed over with shellac spirit varnish
(colored with gamboge), makes a very good,
cheap, and durable substitute for gold leaf.
3577. Grecian Gilding. Dissolve equal
parts of sal-ammoniac and corrosive subli-
mate in nitric acid, and a solution of gold is
to be made with the above mixture as a sol-
vent; after slight concentration, the liquid is
applied to the surface of silver, which im-
mediately becomes black, but, on being heat-
ed, exhibits a rich gilded surface.
3578. Japanners' Gilding. The sur-
face is covered with oil size thinned with
spirits of turpentine, and gold in powder
(sec No. 2517) is gently dabbed on with a puff
of wash-leather. This gives the appearance
of frosted gold. A coating of varnish is next
given, followed by a gentle heat in the stove.
3579. Leaf Gilding. This term is
commonly applied to the gilding of paper,
vellum, <fcc., by applying leaf gold to the
surface previously prepared with a coating of
gum water, size, or white of egg. It may be
burnished with an agate.
3580. To Make Oil Gold Size. This
is usually made from the sediment which
collects at the bottom of the pot or dish m
' which painters wash their brushes, thoroughly
ground and stained.
3581. Oil Gilding. The surface is pre-
pared or primed with a coat of white lead
in drying oil ; then follow 2, 3, or 4 coats of
calcined white lead ground in linseed oil and
turpentine, with an interval of at least 24
hours between each coat, which must be
carefully smoothed off with pumice-stone or
shave grass. The gold size (see No. 3580) is
next applied. "When the gold size coat is
sufficiently dry, the gold leaf is applied and
pressed on with a wad or soft brush. After
a few days for hardening, a coat of spirit var-
nish is applied, and the surface passed cautious-
ly and evenly over a chafing dish of charcoal.
For indoor work, it is finished off with a coat
of pale oil varnish.
3582. To Gild Poliphed Metal. Pol-
ished silver, copper, brass, <fec., may be gild-
ed by the direct application of gold leaf to
the surface heated to a bluish tint, pressing
it on gently and carefully with the burnisher.
This process is repeated until the proper
thickness and tone is attained. Then it is
polished with the burnisher and colored at the
stove.
3583. Gold Tracing on Metal.
"Writing or any device in gold may be made
on polished steel or iron, by tracing on the
surface with a camel-hair pencil, using an
ethereal solution of gold. The ether evaporat-
ing leaves a coating of gold, which may then
be polished. (See No. 3585.)
3584. Water Gilding. This process
involves several distinct operations, and can
only be performed successfully by those who
have learned the art practically.
3585. Ethereal Solution of Gold for
Gilding on Steel. This process answers
equally well for either gold or platina. Dis-
solve any quantity of gold or platina in nitro-
muriatic acid (aqua regia), until no further
effervescence is occasioned by the application
._. , of heat. (See No. 3588.) Evaporate the
the solution of gold or platina, thus formed, to
dryness, in a gentle heat (it will then be freed
from all excess of acid, which is essential),
and redissolve the dry mass in as little .water
as possible; next take a separating funnel
or pipette (see No. 0000), fill it about one-
fourth with the liquid, and the other three
parts must be filled with the very best sul-
phuric ether. If this be rightly managed, the
two liquids will not mix. Then place the
tube in a horizontal position, and gently turn
it round with the finger and thumb. The
ether will very soon be impregnated with the
gold or platina, which may be known by its
changing" its color; replace it in a perpendicu-
lar position, and let it rest for 24 hours,
having first stopped up the upper orifice frith
a cork. The liquid will then be divided into
two parts — the darkest coloring being under-
neath. To separate them, take out the cork
and let the dark liquid flow put ; when it has
disappeared, stop the tube immediately with
the cork, and what remains in the tube is fit
for use, and may be called gilding liquid.
Let it be put into a bottle, and tightly corked.
The muriate of gold or platiua, formed by
digesting these metals in nitro-muriatic acid,
must be entirely free from all excess of acid,
because it will otherwise act too forcibly on
the steel, and cause the coating of gold to
peel off. Pure gold must be employed ; the
ether must not be shaken with the muriate of
gold, as is advised by some, for it will then
be sure to contain acid ; but if the two
liquids be brought continually into contact by
the motion described, the affinity between
ether and gold is so strong as to overcome the
obstacle of gravity, and it will hold the gold
in solution. The ethereal solution may also
be concentrated by gentle evaporation.
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
3586. To Gild Steel. Pour some of
the ethereal solution of gold into a wine-glass,
and dip into it the blade of a new penknife,
lancet, or razor; withdraw the instrument,
and allow the ether to evaporate ; the blade
will then be found covered witk a beautiful
coat of gold. The blade may be moistened
with a clean rag, or a small piece of very dry
sponge dipped into the ether, and the same
effect will be produced. (See No. 3585.)
3587. Elkington's Patent, or Anglo-
German Gilding. The articles, after being
perfectly cleaned from scale or grease, and
receiving a proper face, are to be suspended
on wires, dipped into the gilding liquid (see
No. 3588) boiling hot, and moved about there-
in, when, in from a few seconds to a minute,
depending on the newness and strength of
the liquid, the requisite coating of gold will
be deposited on them. By a little practice
the time to withdraw the articles is readily
known ; the duration of the immersion re-
quired to produce any given effect gradually
increases as the liquid weakens by use.
"When properly gilded, the articles are with-
drawn from the solution of gold, washed in
clean water, and dried ; after which they un-
dergo the usual operation of coloring, <fcc. A
dead appearance is produced by the applica-
tion to the articles of a weak solution of
nitrate of mercury previously to the immer-
sion ; or the deadening may be given by ap-
plying a solution of the nitrate to the gilded
surface and then expelling the mercury by
heat.
3588. Elkington's Patent Gilding
Liquid. Fine gold, 5 ounces (troy); uitro-
muriatic acid (aqua regia), 52 ounces (avoir-
dupois) ; dissolve by heat, and continue the
heat until red or yellow vapors cease to be
evolved ; decant the clear liquid into a suita-
ble vessel; add distilled water, 4 gallons;
pure bicarbonate of potassa, 20 pounds ; and
boil for 2 hours. The nitro-muriatic acid is
made with pure nitric acid (specific gravity
1.45), 21 ounces; pure muriatic acid (specific
gravity 1.15), 17 ounces; and distilled water,
14 ounces.
3589. Gilding by Immersion. Dis-
solve teroxide or terchloride of gold in a solu-
tion of pyrophosphate of soda, and dip the
article to be gilt in it.
3590. Gilding and Silvering by
Amalgams. For these processes see Nos.
3532 to 3538.
3591. Gold Plating Powder. Wash
thoroughly J ounce chloride of gold; then
add it to a solution of 2 ounces cyanide of
potassium in a pint of clean rain water;
shake well, and let it stand until the chloride
is dissolved. Add 1 pound prepared Spanish
whiting, expose to the air till dry, and then
put away in a tight vessel for use.
3592. To Apply Gold Plating Pow-
der. Make some gold plating powder into a
paste with water, and rub it on the surface of
•the article with a piece of chamois skin or
cotton flannel. The surface of the article
should be thoroughly cleansed before apply-
ing the platiug powder.
3593. Gilding Paste. Metallic sur-
faces are gilt by rubbing on the following
mixture : Terchloride of gold, 36 parts ; dis-
solve in pure water, 36 parts, and mix with
a solution of cyanide of potassium, 60 parts,
in nure water, "80 parts ; shake well, and set
by for 15 minutes, then filter. This liquid is
thickened with a powder composed of pre-
pared chalk, 100 parts; cream of tartar, 5
parts.
3594. Fire Gilding. This was exten-
sively done before the discovery of the art of
electroplating. Many a piece of beautiful
workmanship has come down to us from an-
cient Home and Greece, gilded, and probably
in the same way as we do it now, under the
name of fire-gilding. It requires more gold,
the coating being thicker, and is therefore more
expensive ; but it will last longer, and is the
more convenient way for gilding coins and
small articles. Clean the silver piece, by
means of a brush and a little ammonia water,
until the surface is evenly bright and shows
no tarnish. Take a small piece of gold and
dissolve it in about 4 times its volume of me-
tallic mercury, which will in a short time be
accomplished and an amalgam formed. (See
Nos. 3533 and 3534.) Put a little of this amal-
gam on a piece of dry cloth, and rub the sil-
ver piece with it on all sides; then place it on
a clean stone in a furnace, and heat to the
beginning of redness. After cooling it must
be cleaned again with a brush and a little
cream of tartar, when it will be found beauti-
fully and lastingly gilded.
3595. To Remove the Gilding from
Old China. The following method id recom-
mended for removing the remains of gilding
from old china : Take soft water, 8 parts by
measure ; nitric acid, 8 parts ; common salt, 4
parts; sal-ammoniac, 1 part. Let it boil, put
the china into it, and rub with a stiff brush.
3596. Wernicke's Method of Gilding
Glass. The following are the ingredients re-
quired : 1st. Solution of gold. Pure gold,
free from silver, is dissolved in aqua regia, the
solution evaporated, and the residue taken up
with water, so that 120 cubic centimeters
(1 gill) contain 1 gramme (15.4 grains) of
gold. 2d. Solution of sodic hydrate (which
need not be absolutely pure) of 1.06 specific
gravity. 3d. Keduciug liquid. 50 grammes
(771^ grains) sulphuric acid (monohydrate),
40 grammes (G17 grains) alcohol, 35 grammes
(53D grains) water, and 50 grammes powdered
manganic peroxide, are distilled into 50
grammes of water until the bulk of the latter
is doubled — 10 grammes (154 grains) cane-
sugar, inverted by dissolving in 70 cubic cen-
timeters (-£$ gill) water, and belling with k
gramme, (7-J- grains) nitric acid ot specific
gravity 1.34. The distilled liquid, the invert-
ed sugar, and 100 cubic centimeters (T% gill)
alcohol are mixed together, and the mixture
diluted to 500 cubic centimeters (l-jV pints).
In using these solutions, 1 volume of the sodic
hydrate solution is mixed with 4 volumes of
the gold solution, and to this mixture is added
from 1.35 to 1.30 volume of the reducing
liquid. The object to be gilded is placed on
the top of the solution, having the surface in-
tended to be coated turned downwards.
The temperature of the bath should be below
140° Fahr.
3597. Boettger's Method of Gilding
Glass. Boettger has modified Wernicke's
process for throwing down gold on glass as
follows: He prepares the soda solution by
326
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
dissolving 6 grammes (92^ grains) caustic
soda in 100 cubic centimeters (ffa gill) water;
the reducing fluid, to be made when washed,
by dissolving 2 grammes (31 grains) common
starch-sugar (glucose) in 24 grammes (370
grains) distilled water, and adding 24 cubic
centimeters (£ gill) alcohol of 80 per cent., 24
cubic centimeters aldehyde of .870 specific
gravity : neutral solution of chloride of gold,
1 gramme (15.4 grains) of gold in 1,200 cubic
centimeters (2£ pints) water. Four volumes
of the gold solution are mixed in a suitable
vessel with one volume soda solution and 1.16
volumes of the reducing liquid, and the liquid
rapidly poured into the hollow glass globe to
be plated. Five minutes is sufficient to insure
the deposit of a thin film of gold, but it is bet-
ter to allow more time. Flat plates of glass
can be laid upon the surface of the liquid, as
in the silvering process ; the surfaces of the
glass should be carefully cleaned with soda
and alcohol, and not with acids. The greater
part of the gold is thrown down in flocculi,
and can be recovered for subsequent use — the
amount deposited upon the glass being very
small. The mirrors are to be well washed
and dried in the air. "Where the baths are
heated, the deposition of gold takes place
more rapidly, but not so fine ; it is better to
keep the temperature below 140° Fahr, and
to allow the metal coating to form slowly.
3598. Upton's Gold Detergent.
Quicklime, 1 ounce ; sprinkle with a little hot
water to slack it, then gradually add 1 pint
boiling water, so as to form a milk ; dissolve 2
ounces pearlash in 1-J- pints boiling water; mix
the two solutions, cover up, agitate occasion-
ally for an hour, allow it to settle, decant the
clear, put it into fiat half-pint bottles, and
cork them down well. It is used to clean
gilding, &c., either alone or diluted with
water. It is applied with a soft sponge, and
then washed off with clean water. It is es-
sentially a weak solution of potassa, and may
be extemporaneously prepared by diluting
liquor of potassa with about 5 times its volume
of water.
3599. Gruene's Method of Gilding
and Silvering Silk. By a formula publish-
ed by Gruene, for silvering or gilding silk, the
silk is to be soaked with a 5 per cent, solu-
tion of iodide of potassium, and dried ; then
(in non-actinic light, see No. 3140), dipped in
a 5 per cent, solution of nitrate of silver, con-
taining a few drops of nitric acid, and well
drained; next exposed for a few minutes to
sunlight, and then dipped in a 2 per cent, so-
lution of sulphate of iron. It immediately be-
comes gray, from reduction of metallic silver,
and, after washing and drying, only requires
burnishing in order to acquire the metallic
lustre. By repeating this treatment, varied,
however, by adding a little free iodine to the
solution of iodide of potassium, the silver do-
posit becomes stronger. By laying the silver-
ed silk in a very weak solution of chloride of
gold, the silver becomes chloride, and gold is
deposited ; and by then removing the chloride
of silver by a solution of hyposulphite of soda,
washing, drying, and burnishing, the appear-
ance of gilding is produced, if the deposit of
metal be sufficiently thick. The purest chem-
icals must bo used in all gilding processes, in
order to secure satisfactory results.
3600. Silvering' Powder. Employed
for silver coating dial plates, statuettes, and
other articles of copper, and covering the worn
parts of plated goods, previously well cleaned,
by friction. They are made into a paste with
a little water, for use.
3601. To Make Silvering Powder.
Kub together to a fine powder 20 grains fine
silver dust (see No. 3217), 30 grains alum, 1
drachm common salt, and 3 drachms cream of
tartar ; 35 grains of nitrate of silver may be
substituted for the silver dust. Or : Dissolve
chloride of silver in a solution of hyposulphite
of soda, and make into a paste with levigated
burnt hartshorn or bone dust ; dry and pow-
der it. Or: mix 1 ounce silver dust, 4 ounces
each of common salt and sal-ammoniac, and
J ounce corrosive sublimate. In using the last,
copper utensils are previously boiled with tar-
tar and alum, and rubbed with this paste,
then made red-hot, afterwards polished.
Lastly : A good silvering powder may be
made as follows : dissolve chloride of silver in
a solution of hyposulphite of soda, and mix
this with prepared hartshorn or other suitable
powder.
3602. Novargent. This is said to con-
sist of a solution of fresh precipitate chloride
of silver in hyposulphite of soda (or, accord-
ing to the Pharmaceutical Journal, of oxide
of silver in cyanide of potassium), mixed
with prepared chalk.
3603. Silvering Paste. Nitrate of sil-
ver, 1 part; cyanide of potassium (Liebig's), 3
parts ; water sufficient to form a thick paste.
Apply it with a rag. A bath for the same
purpose is made by dissolving 100 parts of
sulphite of soda, and 15 of nitrate of silver,
in water, and dipping the article to be silvered
into it.
3604. Silvering Solution. Prepare a
solution of 1 part cyanide of potassium in 6
parts water ; add it to a concentrated aqueous
solution of nitrate of silver (free from acid)
until the precipitate is redissolved. Mix this
solution with fine chalk, and apply after pre-
vious cleaning of the objects.
3605. Non-poisonous Silvering Fluid.
Nitrate of silver, 80 parts; dissolve in distilled
water, 36 parts; add sal-ammoniac, 40 parts;
hyposulphite of soda, 160 parts; and lastly,
whiting, 160 parts. Apply in the usual way.
3606. Silver Plating Fluid. Dissolve
1 ounce crystals of nitrate of silver in 12 oun-
ces soft water. Then dissolve in the water 2
ounces cyanide of potassium. Shake the
whole together and let it stand till it becomes
clear. Have ready some half-ounce phials,
and fill them half full of Paris white, or fine
whiting, and then fill up the bottles with the
liquid, and it is ready for use. The whiting
docs not increase the coating power ; it only
helps to clean the articles, and to save the sil-
ver fluid by half filling the bottles. This is
the preparation commonly vended by ped-
dlers.
3607. Silver Solution for Plating*
Copper, Brass, and German Silver. Cut
into small pieces a twenty-five cent piece,
and put it into an earthen vessel with £ ounce
nitric acid. Put the vessel into warm water,
uncovered, until it dissolves. Add i gill of
water and 1 tea-spoonful of fine salt, and let it
settle. Drain off and repeat, adding water to
, SILVERING, ETC.
327
the sediment until the acid taste is all out of
the water. Add finally about 1 pint of \vater
to the sediment, and 4 scruples cyanide of po-
tassium. Put into the solution a piece of
zinc about 2 inches long, 1 wide, and -J- in
thickness. After cleaning, immerse the article
to be plated in the solution about half a min-
ute, letting it rest on the zinc. "Wipe off with
a dry cloth and repeat once. Polish with
buckskin. The thickness of plate can be in-
creased by repeating.
3608. Silvering Hooks and Eyes. A
patent has been granted in Bavaria, for the
following method of silvering hooks and eyes
made of iron ware. The articles, are suspend-
ed in dilute sulphuric acid until the iron
shows a clean bright surface. After rinsing
in pure water, they are placed in a bath of a
mixed solution of sulphate of zinc, sulphate of
copper and cyanide of potassium, and there
remain until they receive a bright coating of
brass. Lastly, they are transferred to a bath
of nitrate of "silver, cyanide of potassium and
sulphate of soda, in which they quickly receive
a coating of silver.
3609. To Plate Common Copper
Buttons. Mix 2 ounces chloride of silver, 1
ounce corrosive sublimate, 3 pounds table salt,
and 3 pounds sulphate of zinc, with water, into
a paste. The buttons are cleaned, smeared
over with the mixture, and exposed to a mod-
erate degree of heat, which is afterwards raised
nearly to redness, to expel the mercury which
has united with the silver from the corrosive
sublimate. The silvered surface is then
cleaned and burnished.
3610. Simple Process for Silvering1.
This is an improved process for silvering cop-
per, brass, and other alloys, by means of a so-
lution of silver in cyanide of potassium; the
diiference from the usual method consists in
the use of zinc-filings, with which the objects
are coated ; when the silvering solution is ap-
plied, an immediate deposition of a much
more durable character taking place. The
filings are easily removed by rinsing in water,
and may be used repeatedly for the same pur-
pose. Metallic iron may be coated with cop-
per in the same manner, by substituting for
the silver a solution of copper in cyanide; and
over this copper deposit a coating of silver
may be applied.
3611. Cold Silvering. Mix 1 part
chloride of silver with 3 parts pearlash, Ik
parts common salt, and 1 part whiting, and
rub the mixture on the surface of brass or
copper (previously well cleansed), by means
of a piece of soft leather or a cork moistened
with water and dipped into the powder. 1
part precipitated silver powder, mixed with 2
parts each cream of tartar and common salt,
may also be used in the same way. When
properly silvered, the metal should be well
washed in hot water slightly alkalized, and
then wiped dry.
3612. Spencer's Method of Silvering
Wood. The first operation is to take strong
alcohol or spirits of turpentine in a glass ves-
sel, and add to it a piece of phosphorus (a
common corked phial will answer the pur-
pose); the vessel must now be placed in hot
water for a few minutes, and occasionally
shaken ; by this means the alcohol will take
about 3 per cent, of its bulk of phosphorus.
N"ext procure a weak solution of nitrate of
silver, place it in a flat dish or saucer; the face
of the wood must now be dipped in this solu-
tion, and let it remain a few minutes to allow
capillary attraction to draw it into the wood.
This operation being performed, a small por-
tion of the solution of phosphorus must be
placed in a capsule or watch-glass, and this
placed on a sand-bath, that it may gradually
evaporate. The wood must now be held with
its surface over the vapor, and an immediate
change takes place ; the nitrate of silver is de-
composed, and gives place to metallic silver.
"When the material to be acted on is not very
large, fasten it to the top of a bell-glass re-
ceiver with a bit of pitch or cement, and place
this over the capsule on the sand-bath ; the
phosphorus vapor is by this means equally
diffused, and not dissipated. A solution of
phosphorus in sulphuric ether also answers;
and a solution of gold (chloride) may be used.
This elegant process, as applied to wood and
those substances which may be wetted with
the solution of nitrate of silver, answers per-
fectly; but it is obviously limited in its appli-
cation to those substances which will absorb
an aqueous solution.
3613. Silvering Glass. Two distinct
methods are adopted for this purpose. The
one falsely called silvering, consists of the ap-
plication of a layer of an amalgam of tin, or
similar alloy, to the surface of the glass (see
No. 3614), the other is a coating of real sil-
ver, precipitated from a solution of that metal.
(See Nos. 3615, <?-c.)
3614. To Silver Looking-Glasses.
This is usually done by coating the glass with
an amalgam. For this purpose a large, per-
fectly flat stone table is provided ; upon it is
evenly spread a sheet of tin foil without crack
or flaw; this is covered uniformly to the'
depth of -J- inch with clean mercury. The
plate of glass, perfectly cleansed from all
grease and impurity, is floated on to the mer-
cury carefully, so as to exclude all air bubbles.
It is then pressed down by loading it with
weights in order to press out all the mercury
which remains fluid, which is received in a
gutter around the stone. After about 24
hours it is raised gently upon its edge, and in
a few weeks it is ready to frame. It is said
to be desirable to have the lower end of the
glass, from which the mercury was drained,
at the bottom of the frame. To convex and
concave mirrors the amalgamated foil is ap-
plied by means of accurately fitting plaster
moulds. The interior of globes is silvered by
introducing a liquid 'amalgam, and turning
about the globe till every part is covered
with it, (See Nos. 3538 and 3545.)
3615. To Silver Glass. An easy and
economical process. Mix 90 parts by measure
of a solution of Rochelle salts at 1.50 specific
gravity, with 900 parts distilled water, and
boil them in a flask ; drop in carefully 20 parts
of a solution of nitrate of silver specific grav-
ity 1.18, and boil again. This solution can
be bottled and kept for any length of time.
Another fluid has to be prepared by adding
ammonia to a solution of nitrate of silver
until the precipitate is entirely dissolved ; fil-
tering and diluting 1 part of it with 100 parts
of water. For use, put equal parts of the two
preparations in a suitable vessel, clean the
328
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
glass well (see No. 3621), and immerse it in
the mixture until sufficiently coated. The
coating of silver should be protected -with a
coat of lac varnish.
3616. Drayton's Process for Silvering
Glass. Mr. Drayton mixes 1 ounce nitrate
of silver, 3 ounces water, 1 ounce liquid am-
monia, and 3 ounces spirit of wine, and filters
the solution after it has stood 3 or 4 hours.
To every ounce of the solution he adds £
ounce sugar (grape sugar if possible), dissolv-
ed in equal quantities of water and alcohol.
The surface to be silvered is covered with this
liquid at a temperature of 160° Fahr., main-
tained till the deposition of silver is complete.
When quite dry, the coated surface is covered
with mastic varnish. Other substances be-
sides sugar occasion the deposition of silver
from the ammoniacal solution ; as oil of cas-
sia, oil of cloves, and oth*er essential oils, al-
dehyde, <fec. Unger recommends a strong al-
coholic solution of tannin. He had accident-
ally mixed in a dish a small quantity of a
thick alcoholic solution of tannin with an
equally small quantity of a strong solution of
nitrate of silver ; and in the course of a short
time he found the dish coated with a thin,
brilliant, and uniform layer of metallic silver.
He directly repeated the experiment, and met
with the same result again and again. He
next proceeded to evaporate the liquid to dry-
ness by placing the dish on the surface of
•warm sand. As soon as it was completely
dry, the coating was found to be so fast on
the porcelain that it required the point of a
sharp penknife to scrape it off. He also suc-
ceeded in producing a brilliant metallic coat-
ing from a saturated solution of sulphate of
copper by the same solution of tannin.
3617. Pettijean's Process of Silver-
ing Glass. Two solutions are to be pre-
pared. The first is composed of 26k drachms
nitrate of silver and 2 ounces aqua am-
monia, dissolved in 1 pint of distilled water.
After filtration this liquor is diluted with 16
times its volume of distilled water, and, drop
by drop, a solution of 116J grains of tartaric
acid is added.
The second is prepared in the same manner,
but with a double quantity of tartaric acid.
As these solutions are rapidly reduced, pre-
pare in the morning the liquors to be used
during the day. Before silvering, the glass is
perfectly cleaned, first with chalk and a fine
cloth, then with a bung and a little of the
first solution. It is then rubbed dry with a
piece of chamois leather. (See No. 3621.)
The glass, laid horizontally upon a table of
cast iron, at a perfect level, is heated (by
means of a cast iron water- bath beneath) to
113° Fahr., an India-rubber roller dipped in
distilled water is next passed over its surface,
and then its surface is covered with K"o. 1
solution. The deposit of silver commences
in about 10 minutes, and is completed in
about 15 minutes afterwards. The glass is
then tilted up so as to allow the liquor to run
off, and rinsed with water rather more than
lukewarm to carry away the non-adherent
powder. It is then restored to its horizontal
position and covered with solution No. 2.
In a quarter of an hour the deposit is com-
pleted. The next thing is to wash the plate
as before, and dry it, after which it only re-
mains to polish and burnish the film of silver
deposited, in order to make it perfectly
smooth, and give closeness to the grain. To
cover a three-feet square of glass requires 5
pints of liquor. The deposit is, therefore,
about 1^ drachms to every 9 square feet. To
preserve the coating of silver from sulphura-
tion and rubbing, it is covered with a paint
made with 1 pound of lead pigment, 1-j-
ounces of drying oil, and 5i ounces of spirits
of turpentine. Liebig has produced the same
result by depositing on the silver a coating of
galvano-plastic copper, but the advantages
resulting from the greatest solidity of the
deposit scarcely compensate for the practical
inconveniences of the process.
3618. To Silver Specula and Other
Glass Surfaces. Make a solution of am-
rnonio-nitrate of silver, of the strength of
three grains to the ounce. Eender it very
slightly turbid by excess of nitrate of silver,
and then filter it. Just before using, add to
each ounce of the foregoing solution 2£ grains
of Rochello salts. Having scrupulously
cleaned the glass intended to be silvered
(see No. 3621), place it in a convenient vessel
about one inch from the bottom, supported
on three little cones of white wax. The
glass plate may be suspended; but in that
case there is more difficulty in avoiding vibra-
tion, the absence of which is essential to
success. Expose to a northern light, or any
other subdued light, and in about two hours
the deposit 'of silver will be sufficiently
thick. It must now be carefully removed,
washed, and dried. When the surface next
the glass is to be used as the reflector, the
glass side should be cleaned by nitric acid if
the state of its surface, after the silvering, so
require ; and the silvered side should receive
a protecting coating of a good tough black
varnish.
3619. Liebig's Process for Silvering
Glass Mirrors. The process of silvering
glass generally rests on the reduction of
metallic silver from a solution by means of
glucose or some other organic substance. By
Liebig's method the deposit of silver is pro-
duced by the action of a mixture consisting of
GO parts by measure of a silver solution, and
10 parts of a reducing solution, this latter
previously diluted with 250 to 300 pails wa-
ter. The components of the silver solution
are: 140 parts of a solution containing 10 per
cent, of nitrate of silver ; 100 parts cf a solu-
tion of nitrate of ammonia (free from chlorine)
of 1.115 specific gravity (or a solution of sul-
phate of ammonia of specific gravity 1.105-
1.106;) lastly, 750 parts of caustic soda lye of
specific gravity 1.050. In case sulphate of
ammonia is used, its solution must bo added
to the silver solution, not as in the case of
nitrate. The reducing solution consists of 1
part by measure of sugar, liquor and 1 part
of copper liquor. '
The sugar liquor is prepared by dissolving
50 grammes (771 i grains) white sugar in wa-
ter to a thin syrup, kept for 1 hour at a boil-
ing heat with 3/tf grammes (48 grains) tartaric
acid ; the solution is then diluted to measure
500 cubic centimeters (I fa pints).
The copper liquor consists of a solution of
2-fW'T grammes (44 grains) dry tartrate of
copper in water, by the aid of a caustic soda
GILDING, SILVERING. ETC.
329
solution added by drops until the blue salt is
dissolved; the whole is then diluted with
•water to measure 500 cubic centimeters (l-j^
pints).
The glasses to be silvered, if for mirrors,
are placed upright on their edge in the silver-
ing tank and held together in pairs by clamps;
when for optical purposes, they are held in a
horizontal position, just touching the surface
of the fluid. In cold seasons the temperature
must be kept at 68° to 84° Fahr. The
quantity of silver necessary for a square yard
of surface is from 46 to 54 grains.
3620. Bird's Process for Silvering
Mirrors or Specula. The mirror or specu-
lum to be silvered is first cleaned (see No.
3621), and then suspended, face downwards,
in a silver bath prepared thus: A large flat
shallow vessel of glass or porcelain is provided,
to contain the solution. 750 grains nitrate of
silver are dissolved in 6 ounces distilled wa-
ter, and to this is added pure liquid ammonia,
drop by drop, until the precipitate which is
thrown down is redissolved. 2 ounces caustic
potash are dissolved in 50 ounces, bv measure,
of rain water; and 15 ounces of this solution
are added to the ammoniacal solution, when
a brown-black precipitate will be produced.
Ammonia is again added, drop by drop, until
this precipitate is just redissolved ; and 29
ounces of distilled water are then added to
the whole. To this mixture is again added,
drop by drop, stirring with a glass rod, .a
strong solution of nitrate of silver, until a
precipitate, which does not redissolve, begins
to be formed. Previous to immersing the
speculum, 1 part, by weight, of powdered
milk sugar to 10 parts, by measure, of distilled
water, must be prepared in a separate vessel,
and filtered until a clear solution is obtained.
Then, to 10 parts, by measure, of the silvering
solution, must be added 1 part, by measure, of
the milk sugar solution, and, finally, 50
ounces of the compound solution will be
sufficient to silver a speculum 9 inches in dia-
meter. To facilitate 'the suspending, a circu-
lar block of wood is very firmly cemented to
the back of the speculum with marine glue or
pitch, and three pins inserted at equal dis-
tances round the margin, to which strings
may be fastened. On lowering it into the
bath, care must be taken that no air bubbles
intervene, that the speculum be not deeper in
the liquid than half its thickness, and that a
depth of 2 inches, at least, intervene between
the face of the speculum and the bottom of
the vessel. In 10 minutes after immersion a
metallic film will be seen forming on the
glass, and in an hour or two a compact silver
coating will be laid over the whole surface.
The speculum should remain in the bath for
4 hours, by which time the process is com-
pleted ; it is then carefully removed, copious-
ly washed with distilled water, and placed on
its edge to dry. It is then'ready for polishing.
(See No. 362'2.)
3621. To Clean the Surface of Glass
for Silvering. As the success of the silver-
ing process depends greatly on the glass sur-
face being made chemically clean previous to
immersion in the bath, the utmost pains must
be taken to accomplish this object. The sur-
face is first covered with thick whiting cream,
free from grit, which, when dry, ia rubbed off
with the purest cotton wool. The surface is
then wetted entirely with dilute nitric acid,
and afterwards thoroughly washed with dis-
tilled water poured over it ; and, last of all,
the piece of coated glass is suspended in a
flat vessel containing alcohol, where it re-
mains until the bath is ready to receive it.
3622. To Polish a- Silvered Surface
on Glass. To accomplish this, rub the sur-
face gently, first with a clean pad of fine cot-
ton wool, and afterwards with a similar pad
covered over with cotton velvet, which has
been charged with fine rouge. The surface
will, under this treatment, acquire a polish of
intense brilliancy, quite free from any scratches.
3623. To Silver Glass for the Reflec-
tors of Telescopes. The solutions employ-
ed are four in number, and they require some
cai'e in their first preparation ; but once made
they are always ready, and can be used with
great rapidity and certainty for depositing a
lustrous, mirror-like surface of silver on a
piece of glass of any desired shape or curva-
ture:—
Solution No. 1 is prepared by dissolving 1
part, by weight, of nitrate of silver, in 10 parts
of distilled water.
Solution No. 2 consists of an aqueous solu-
tion of. pure ammonia, having a density of
13.3° Baume'.
Solution No. 3 consists of 4 parts of pure
caustic soda in 100 of distilled water.
Solution No. 4 is made by dissolving 12£
parts of the best white loaf sugar in 100 parts
distilled water. To this add 1 part, by mea-
sure, of nitric acid, boil for 20 minutes, in
order to invert or alter the molecular arrange-
ment of the particles of the sugar, and then
add water to increase the volume to 500 parts
by measure, and finally add 50 parts alcohol.
These solutions will remain unchanged for
a long time. When required for use, prepare
a silvering liquid by pouring into a flask 12
parts, by measure, of the silver solution, No.
1 ; 8 parts, by measure, of the ammoniacal so-
lution, No. 2 ; then 20 parts of the soda solu-
tion, No. 3; and, lastly, add 60 parts of distill-
ed water, in order to make up the volume to
100. If the proportions have been properly
observed, the liquid so prepared will be per-
fectly clear, but will be rendered turbid by the
smallest addition of nitrate of silver solution.
It must be allowed to remain without disturb-
ance for 24 hours, to permit the floating par-
ticles to settle. The clear liquid decanted
from the sediment will then be ready for use.
The surface of the glass which has to be
silvered must be well cleaned with a tuft of
cotton and a few drops of nitric acid, and then
washed with distilled water. (See No. 3621.)
Drain it, and support it on the surface of the
silvering bath, which is composed of the above
described silvering liquid, with the addition of
Tff or iV its volume of the sugar solution,
No. 4. The surface to be silvered, should, by
preference, bo at the upper part of the liquid,
so that the silver may be deposited on it from
below upward. There are two advantages in
this — first, the deposit is finer and more even:
and, second, there is no danger of floating
particles of dust settling on the surface. It
is, however, scarcely necessary to say that
silver will be deposited upon every part of the
glass which is under the surface of the liquid,
330
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
as well as upon the sides and bottom ' of the j put in a closely stoppered bottle until the
vessel ; so that, as a matter of economy, as moment of using.
little as possible of the back of the glass
should be exposed to the action of the liquid.
The action seems to be more rapid in the
light than in darkness. Under the influence
of diffused light the liquid becomes yellow,
then brown, and in a few minutes the whole
of the exposed surface of the glass will be
covered with a fine deposit of silver. In
about a quarter of an hour the thickness of
the metallic coating will be Sufficient to bear
the subsequent operations without injury ; it
must then be washed with plenty of water,
and rested by one corner on several thick-
nesses of blotting-paper to dry spontaneously.
The surface will now be covered with a thin
whitish veil, which may be readily removed
by gentle friction with chamois leather; it
may afterwards be polished with jewelers'
rouge, when a perfectly brilliant surface will
be produced. (See No. 3622.)
3624. To Repair the Silvering of
Looking-Glasses. The repairing of the sil-
vering on the backs of looking-glasses has
hitherto been considered a very difficult
operation. A new and very simple method,
however, has been described before the Poly-
technic Society of Leipsic. It is as follows :
Clean the bare portion of the glass by rubbing
it gently with fine cotton, taking care to re-
move any trace of dust and grease. If this
cleaning be not done very carefully, defects
will appear around the place repaired. "With
the point of your knife cut upon the back of
another looking-glass around a portion of the
silvering of the required form, but a little
larger. Upon it place a small drop of mer-
cury ; a drop the size of a pin's head will be
sufficient for a surface equal to the size of the
nail. The mercury spreads immediately, pen-
etrates the amalgam to where it was cut off
with the knife, and the required piece may
now be lifted and removed to the place to be
repaired. This is the most difficult part of the
operation. Then press lightly the renewed
portion with cotton ; it hardens almost imme-
diately, and the glass presents the same ap-
pearance as a new one.
3625. To Repair a Damaged Mirror.
Pour upon a sheet of tin foil about 3 drachms
of quicksilver to the square foot of foil. Rub
smartly with a piece of buckskin until the foil
becomes brilliant. Lay the glass upon a flat
table, face downwards ; place the foil upon
the damaged portion of the glass ; lay a sheet
of paper over the foil, and place upon it a
block of wood or a piece of marble with a
perfectly flat surface; put upon it sufficient
weight to press it down tight ; let it remain
in this position a few hours. The foil will
adhere to the glass.
3626. Process for Silvering Animal,
Vegetable, or Mineral Substances. This
process is founded upon the electro-chemical
action exercised by certain liquors in which
the objects to be silvered are plunged. The
method of preparing these liquors is as fol-
lows:
Liquor No. 1. — Take 2 parts by weight of
caustic lime, 5 of sugar of milk or grape
sugar, 2 of gallic acid, and make of them a
mixture in 650 parts of distilled water ; filter,
protect from the air as much as possible, and
Liquor No. 2. — Dissolve 20 parts nitrate of
silver in 20 parts solution of ammonia, and
add to this solution 650 parts distilled water.
When it is intended to operate, the two pre-
ceding liquors are mixed in equal quantities,
and, after having been well agitated, filtered.
As the solution of ammonia of commerce has
not always the same degree of concentration,
it would be better, perhaps, to dissolve the
nitrate of silver destined for the liquor No. 2,
first in distilled water, then mix the solution
with liquor No. 1, and then add ammonia in
quantity only just sufficient to entirely clear
the mixture. The deposition of silver can be
accelerated by the employment of heat; in
this case, the temperature depends upon the
nature of the objects to be submitted to the
operation. The method of employing the
above liquors in silvering the surfaces of dif-
ferent materials is given in the following six
receipts:
3627. To Silver Silk, Woolen, Cotton,
Etc. When it is intended to silver silk,
woolen, cotton, etc., commence by washing
the substance clean ; this clone, immerse it for
a moment in the saturated solution of gallic
acid; then withdraw it to plunge it for a
second in another solution composed of 20
parts nitrate of silver to 1000 parts distilled
water. These alternate immersions are con-
tinued, until the substance from being dark
becomes of a brilliant tint; after that it is
plunged in a bath composed of a mixture of
the two liquors, Nos. 1 and 2. (See No. 3626.)
When it is completely silvered, it is withdrawn
and boiled in a solution of salt of tartar (car-
bonate of potassa)in water, and there remains
nothing more to be done but a last washiug
and drying.
3628. To Silver Bone, Horn, Paper,
Etc. Bone, horn, wood, paper, etc., are sil-
vered in the same way (see No. 3627) with
this difference, however, that, in the place of
the alternate immersions above indicated, the
objects to be silvered are operated upon with
a brush or pencil dipped alternately in the
gallic acid solution and in that of nitrate of
silver. The silvered surfaces are then washed
with distilled water, dried by free air and
heat.
3629. To Silver Leather. For leather
tanned with sumach, in the place of nitrate of
silver (see No. 3627) the chloride mixed with a
few drops of rosemary oil may be employed
with advantage. The silvered surface is
then washed and dried as directed in last re-
ceipt.
3630. To Silver Stucco and Pottery.
Stucco and pottery may be silvered by the
same process as No. 3628, but before being
submitted to the operation they should be
covered with a coat of stearine or varnish.
3631. To Silver Glass, Crystal, or
Porcelain. To silver glass, crj-stal, or porce-
lain, commence by washing thoroughly (see
No. 3621) the object with distilled water, and
with alcohol, and then operate as has been
said with the mixture. (See No. 3626.) Ob-
jects with a plane surface should be placed in
a horizontal position, and the liquor poured
upon them. (See Nos. 3618,
When
mirrors are to be silvered, the plates of glass
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
331
may be disposed in a vertical position ; place
them two and two face against face, in troughs
of gutta perch a, taking care to prevent all
contact with the sides ; then fill with the li-
quid. Precipitation of silver commences in a
quarter of an hour, and at the end of a few
hours the operation is finished. "When dry,
coat the silvered surface with varnish.
3632. To Silver the Metals. Com-
mence by cleansing them with nitric acid;
rub them afterwards with a mixture of cyan-
ide of potassium and powdered silver ; then,
after washing with water, they are plunged
alternately into the liquors Nos. 1 and 2 (see
No. 3626), until they appear sufficiently sil-
vered. If working with iron, it should be
first immersed in a solution of sulphate of
copper. The process which has been de-
scribed presents above all others the advan-
tage of very solid results, and of employing
chemical agents of low price.
3633. To Coat Copper Plates with
Brass. Expose the plates, heated sufficient-
ly, to the fumes of zinc. Zinc boils and is
vaporized by heating it to a white heat.
3634. To Coat the Inside of Copper
Vessels with Brass. Dissolve 1 part zinc
amalgam (see No. 3539) in 2 parts muriatic
acid ; add 1 part argol (crude tartar), and add
sufficient water to fill the vessel ; then boil it
in the vessel.
3635. To Deposit Copper upon Cast
Iron. The pieces of cast iron are first
placed in a bath made of 50 parts hydro-
chloric acid, specific gravity 1.105, and 1
part nitric acid ; next, in a second bath, com-
posed of 10 parts nitric acid, 10 parts of
chloride of copper, dissolved in 80 parts of the
same hydrochloric acid as just alluded to.
The objects are rubbed with a woolen rag and
a soft brush, next washed with water, and
again immersed until the desired thickness of
copper is deposited. "When it is desired to
give the appearance of bronze, the copper sur-
face is rubbed with a mixture of 4 parts sal-
ammoniac and 1 part each oxalic and acetic
acids dissolved in 30 parts water.
3636. Graeger's Process for Covering
Iron and Steel with Copper without a
Battery. The objects are first well cleaned,
and then painted over with a solution of
protochloride of tin, and immediately after-
ward with an ammoniacal solution of sulphate
of copper. The layer of copper thus produced
adheres so firmly to the iron or steel, that the
different objects can be rubbed and polished
with fine chalk without injuring the deposit.
The tin solution is prepared with 1 part
crystallized chloride of tin, 2 parts water, and
2 parts hydrochloric acid. The copper solu-
tion, with 1 part sulphate of copper, 16 parts
water, adding ammonia sufficient to rcdis-
solve the precipitate first thrown down by it.
Zinc and galvanized iron can bo treated, ac-
cording to Boettger, directly by the copper
solution, without using the tin salt. The
above process may be found useful by gilders,
and for various ornamental purposes.
3637. Weil's Process for Coating
Iron with Copper. This process yields a
coating of copper of great brightness and
strong cohesion. The object, whether of
cast or wrought iron, is freed from rust by
immersion for from 5 to 10 minutes in water
containing 2 per cent, of muriatic acid, and
subsequent scrubbing for ± hour with a wire
brush and sand, then washing in water until
all traces of acid are removed. It is then
covered with zinc wire in spiral turns of
about 6 inches from each other, which also
serves as a means of suspension. The bath
consists of a solution of 8 parts caustic soda
in 100 parts water, of which 11 quarts are
mixed with 50 ounces Eochelle salts and 12£
ounces sulphate of copper, making a liquid of
a density equal to 19° Baum6. It retains its
activity as long as the copper is kept replaced,
and deposition from it proceeds with great
regularity. The material of the vessel is
best when made of wood, lined with gutta-
percha, and covered with a wooden lid. When
the coating is of sufficient thickness, the ob-
ject is removed from the bath, first washed
with water slightly acidified with sulphuric
acid, and then with pure water until the dis-
appearance of all traces of acid ; after this it
passes into a drying room heated to 132°
Pahr. The bronzing, when required, is ob-
tained by a bath of sulphide of sodium, or by
means of the same bath as above, somewhat
modified, that is, by increasing the proportion
of copper to a threefold, in which case the
bath no longer deposits copper, but, to all ap-
pearances, bronze. By reducing the points of
contact between the iron and wire, though
retaining the spiral turns at uniform distances,
the deposit gradually assumes a number of
colors in the following series, viz.: orange,
silver-white, pale yellow, golden yellow, car-
mine, green, brown, and dark bronze. As soon
as the desired color is attained, the object is
washed in warm water, and again dried at 132°.
Between each subsequent change of color is an
interval of about 5 minutes. The reaction is
more decided when the alkaline reaction of
the bath is stronger. For indoor work or
ornaments the time of immersion may vary
from 3 to 72 hours; . for outdoor objects a
much longer time would be necessary.
3638. To Tin Iron Pots and other
Domestic Articles. The articles are clean-
ed with sand, and, if necessary, with acid, and
put then in a bath, prepared with 1 ounce
cream of tartar, 1 ounce tin salt (protochloride
of tin), id quarts water. This bath must be
kept at a temperature of 190° Fahr., in a
stoneware or wooden tank. Bits of metallic
zinc are put into and between the different
pieces. When the coat of tin is considered
thick enough, the articles are taken out of
the fluid, washed with water, and dried.
3639. To Tin by the Moist Way.
Make a solution of 1 part protochloride of
tin in 10 parts water, to which add a solution
of 2 parts of caustic soda in 20 parts water;
the mixture becomes turbid, but this does not
affect the tinning operation, which is effected
by heating the objects to be tinned in this
fluid, care being taken, at the same time, to
place in the liquid a piece of perforated block
tin plate, and to stir up the fluid during, the
tinning with a rod of zinc.
3640. To Tin Iron Without the Aid
of Heat. To 105 quarts water are added Gg
pounds rye meal ; this mixture is boiled for
30 minutes, and next filtered through cloth ;
to the clear but thickish liquid are added 233
pounds pyrophosphate of soda, 37| pounds
332
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
protochloride of tin in crystals (so-called tin
salt), 147-J- pounds neutral protochloride of
tin, 3i to 4 ounces sulphuric acid ; this liquid
is placed in well made wooden troughs, and
serves more specially for the tinning of iron
and steel wire (previously polished) for the
use of carding machines. When, instead of
the two salts of tin just named, cyanide of
silver and cyanide of potassium are taken, the
iron is perfectly silvered.
3641. To Cleanse Iron for Tinning.
The metal must be cleansed by immersion in
an acid solution ; for new metal, this solution
should be sulphuric acid and water, but for
old metal, muriatic acid and water; next
scour with sand, and cleanse well with water.
3642. To Tin Iron. First cleanse as
above, then heat the article just hot enough
to melt the tin, rub the surface over with a
piece of sal-ammoniac, and sprinkle some of
the sal-ammoniac in powder over it ; then ap-
ply the tin and wipe it over evenly with a
piece of tow.
3643. Cold Tinning. Rub pure tin-
foil and quicksilver together until the amal-
gam becomes soft and fusible, clean the sur-
face to be tinned with spirits of salt (hydro-
chloric acid), and, while moist, rub the amal-
gam on, and then evaporate the quicksilver
by heat.
3644. Stolba's Method of Tinning
Copper, Brass, and Iron in the Cold, and
without Apparatus. The object to be
coated with tin must be entirely free from
oxide or rust. It must be carefully cleaned,
and care be taken that no grease spots arc
left ; it makes no difference whether the ob-
ject be cleaned mechanically or chemically.
Two preparations are requisite for the purpose
of tinning. Zinc powder — the best is that pre-
pared artificially by melting zinc and pouring
it into an iron mortar. (See No. 3312.) It
can be easily pulverized immediately after
solidification; it should be about as fine as
writing sand. A solution of protocliloride of
tin, containing 5 to 10 per cent., to which as
much pulverized cream of tartar must be
added as will go on the point of a knife.
The object to be tinned is moistened with
the tin solution, after which it is rubbed hard
with the zino powder. The tinning appears
at once. The tin salt is decomposed by the
zinc, metallic tin being deposited. "When the
object tinned is polished brass or copper, it
appears as beautiful as if silvered, and retains
its lustre for a long time. This method may
be used in a laboratory to preserve iron,
steel, and copper apparatus from rust; and
would become of great importance if the tin-
ning could be made as thick as in the dry
way, but this has not as yet been accom-
plished.
3645. To Tin Copper Tubes. W.
"Wollweber recommends for still-worms cop-
per tubes tinned inside in the following man-
ner : To a solution of Kochelle salts a solution
of salts of tin is added ; a precipitate of stan-
nous tartrate is formed, which is washed and
then dissolved in caustic lye. The copper
tube, which has first been rinsed with sul-
phuric acid and then washed, is then filled
with the alkaline solution, warmed a little,
and touched with a tin rod, which causes the
deposition of a coat of metallic tin.
3646. To Tin a Worn Copper Kettle.
A thick coating may be obtained by preparing
a tinning solution of zinc dissolved in muri-
atic acid, making the solution as thick or
heavily charged with zinc as possible, adding
a little sal-ammoniac. Clean the inside of
the kettle, place it in a charcoal fire until a
piece of block tin placed inside melts, then
rub the melted tin with some of the tinning
solution, quickly on the copper surface, by
means of a ball of oakum and a little pow-
dered resin; the tin will readily adhere.
"Wrought iron and steel may be tinned in the
same manner.
3647. To Tin a Copper Vessel. Boil
the copper vessel with a solution of stannate
of potassa mixed with tin borings, or boil
with tin filings and caustic alkali or cream of
tartar. In a few minutes a layer of pure tin
will be firmly attached.
3648. To Tin Cast Copper or Brass.
Make a saturated solution of oxide of tin (tin
putty), in potash lye ; add to the solution
some tin filings or shavings ; make it as hot
as possible; then introduce the brass or cop-
per and it will be tinned in a few seconds.
3649. To Galvanize Iron. The differ-
ence between galvanized plates, so-called, and
"sheet-tin," is, that the latter is sheet-iron
covered with a thin coating of block-tin, while
the former is sheet-iron covered with a thin
coating of zinc. To effect the latter result,
the iron plates are first immersed in a cleans-
ing bath of equal parts of sulphuric or muri-
atic acid and water, used warm. (Sec No.
3266.) They are then scrubbed with emery
or sand, to clean them thoroughly and detach
all scales, if any are left ; after which they are
immersed in a preparing bath of equal parts
of saturated solutions of chloride of zinc and
chloride of ammonium, from which bath they
are directly transferred to the fluid metallic
bath, consisting of 20 chemical equivalents of
zinc to 1 of mercury ; or, by weight, 640
pounds of zinc to 10G of mercury, to which
are added from 5 to 6 ounces of sodium. As
soon as the iron has attained the temperature
of this hot fluid bath, which is only 680°
Fahr., it may bo removed, aud will then be
found thoroughly coated with zinc. Care
must be taken not to leave the plates too long
immersed in this bath, as its affinity for
iron is such that they may become dissolved.
This is the case with thin plates of wrought-
iron, which, even when i inch thick, may be
dissolved in a few seconds. It is safe, there-
fore, to let the bath previously act on some
wrought-iron, so that it dissolves a portion of
it, in order to satisfy its inconveniently great
affinity for this metal.
3650. To Zinc or Galvanize Grey
Iron Castings. Cleanse the articles in an
ordinary chafing mill, which consists of a
barrel revolving on its axis containing sand ;
when the sand is all removed, take them out
and heat one by one, plunging, while hot, in a
liquid composed as follows : 10 pounds hydro-
chloric acid, and sufficient sheet zinc to make
a saturated solution. (See No. 3473.) In
making this solution, when the evolution of
gas has ceased, add muriate, or preferably
sulphate of ammonia, 1 pound, and let it
stand until dissolved. The castings should
be so hot that when dipped into this solution,
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
333
and instantly removed, they -will immediately
dry, leaving the surface crystallized like
frost-work on a window pane. Next plunge
them while hot, but perfectly dry, into a bath
of melted zinc, previously skimming the oxide
on the surface away, and throwing thereon a
small amount of powdered sal-ammoniac.
If the articles arc very small, inclose them in
a wrought-iron basket on a pole, and lower
them into the metal. 'When this is done,
shake off the superfluous metal, and cast them
into a vessel of water to prevent them from
adhering when the zinc solidifies.
3651. To Zinc Copper or Brass Ves-
sels. Boil the vessel in a solution of chloride
of zinc, adding a quantity of zinc turnings to
the solution.
3652. Boettger's Process for Coating
Copper and Brass with. Zinc by a Wet
Process. Place zinc in grains or powder in
a non-metallic vessel, and cover the zinc with
a concentrated solution of sal-ammoniac ;
warm to ebullition, and introduce into the
mixture the objects of copper or of brass
which it is desired to coat, after having pro-
perly cleansed them. After a few minutes,
the object will bo covered with a brilliant,
firmly adhering deposit of zinc. (See No. 3312. )
3653. To Coat Copper with Zinc.
To granulate the zinc, a clean surface of cop-
per may bo coated with zinc by placing the
two metals in contact in a solution of caustic
soda or potash. (See Fig. I., No. 3665.) In
the cold the deposit of zinc takes place slowly,
but at 100° it is effected rapidly.
3654. Purcher's Method of Coating
Zinc with Iron. Dissolve 5 ounces pure
sulphate of iron, and 3 ounces sal-ammoniac,
in 5 pounds of boiling water, and immediately
immerse the objects to bo treated. After from
1 or 2 minutes the loose black deposit is re-
moved by brushing it off with water. The
principal effect of this operation is a perfect
cleaning of the surface. The immersion in
the hot iron solution is then repeated, with
the difference that the objects, wheii taken out,
are heated, without rinsing, over a pan of live
coals as long as the ammoniacal vapors arc
evolved. "When, after several immersions,
the coating is considered thick enough, it is
polished by brushing, and will ever afterward
be a perfect protection against oxidation. It
imparts a fine black lustre to the coated sur-
faces.
3655. Process for Covering Articles
of Zinc with Copper or Brass by One
Immersion. To give zinc a coat of copper
or brass for the purpose of a subsequent sil-
vering or gilding, the following solutions arc
used : For copper alone, a solution of sulphate
of copper, saturated at the common tempera-
ture, is mixed with a solution of cyanide of
potassium, adding as much of the latter as is
necessary to redissolve the precipitate thrown
down at first. The prussic acid disengaged
during this operation must be carried off by
a draught or flue. When the mixture is clear,
-fo or £ of its volume of water of ammonia is
added, and then diluted with water to a den-
sity of 8° Baum6. For brass, sulphate of cop-
per and sulphate of zinc are used in equal pro-
portion, and prepared as before. 2 parts sul-
phate of zinc and 1 of sulphate of copper give
a bright brass coating. Previous to their dip-
ping, the articles of zinc are rubbed off thor-
oughly with finely-powdered pumice-stone
and rinsed in water, after which they are
placed in the bath and remain there for 24
hours. After that time they are again
rinsed in water and simply wiped off. The
copper or brass covering has a very bright
look, as if polished, and adheres perfectly.
The thickness of the coat may be increased
afterwards by the aid of a battery.
3656. Dullo's Method of "Platinizing
Glass. This is recommended to prevent
fusing cf the thin end of a glass tube used
for a blowpipe. In drawing out the end of
the tube, leave the diameter slightly larger
than is necessary ; then roughen the narrow
end with a file. Dip in a solution of bi-
chloride of platinum, containing 5 per cent, of
the metal; remove excess of the drop, and
heat cautiously till the glass acquires a me-
tallic appearance. Repeat this 4 or 5 times.
3657. Boettger's Method of Platiniz-
ing Glass. Pour rosemary oil upon the dry
chloride of platinum in a porcelain dish, and
knead it well until all parts are moistened;
then rub this up with 5 times its weight of
lavender oil, and leave the liquid a short time
to clarify. The objects to be platinized are to
be thinly coated with the above preparation
and afterwards heated for a few minutes in a
muffle or over a Bunsen burner.
3658. Platinising Copper, Yellow
Metal, and Brass. In order to obtain a
platinizing fluid capable of platinizing copper,
yellow metal, and brass, add to a moderately
concentrated solution of chloride of platinum,
finely powdered carbonate of soda, until effer-
vescence ceases ; next some glucose, and after-
wards just so much common salt as will cause
a whitish-colored precipitate. When it is de-
sired to apply this mixture for platinizing, the
objects to bo treated are placed in a vessel
made of zinc and perforated with holes ; the
vessel is then placed, with its contents, for a
few seconds in the mixture thus described,
which, just previous to using, should be heat-
ed to 140° Fahr. On being removed from the
zinc vessel, the objects are to bo washed with
water and dried in sawdust.
3659. Stolba's Method of Nickel
Plating. Into the plating vessel — which
may bo of porcelain, but preferably of copper
— i3 placed a concentrated solution of chlonde
of zinc, which is then diluted with from 1 to 2
volumes of water, and heated to boiling. If
any precipitate separates, it is to bo redissolv-
ed by adding a faw drops of hydrochloric acid.
As much powdered zinc as can be taken on
the point of a knife is thrown in, by which
the vessel becomes covered internally with a
coating of zinc. The nickel salt — for which
purpose cither the chloride or sulphate may
be used — is then added until the liquid is dis-
tinctly green ; and tho articles to be plated,
previously thoroughly cleaned, are introduced,
together with some zinc fragments. Tho
boiling is continued for 15 minutes, when tho
coating of nickel 1.3 completed, and the process
is finished. Tho articles are well washed with
water and cleaned with chalk. If a thicker
coating be desired, the operation may be re-
peated. Professor Stolba found that copper
vessels thus plated were scarcely tarnished
after several months' use in the laboratory.
334,
ELECTEOTYPING.
EleCtrOtyplng. This is a pro-
cess for depositing a coating of metal
on objects, metallic or otherwise, by the
agency of a current of galvanic electricity.
Before entering into any description of the
methods employed, it will be necessary to
give some indispensable preliminary direc-
tions, in order that the whole matter may be
more clearly understood. The matter is main-
ly derived from the 4th edition of Napier's
Manual of Electro-Metallurgy.
3661. Solution of Copper for Electro-
typing. Crush fine sulphate of copper in
crystals, and expose to the air for some time.
This oxidizes any iron that may be present.
Stir the sulphate of copper into pure cold
water, until the water will dissolve no more ;
then let it settle, and decant the clear solu-
tion ; add to it about one-fourth its quantity
of water, and it is ready for use.
3662. To Amalgamate Zinc. Immerse
a plate or strip of zinc of the required size in
diluted sulphuric acid, for a few moments ;
then rub quicksilver over the surface. When-
ever the surface of the amalgamated zinc em-
ployed in a battery begins to blacken and
lose its quicksilver coating, the zinc must be
taken out of the acid cell and amalgamated
again.
3663. To Keep the Zinc Plates of a
Smee's Battery Constantly Amalgam-
ated. The trouole of renewing the coating
of amalgam on the zinc plates may be obvia-
ted by a very simple contrivance. Cover the
bottom of the cell with quicksilver, and let
the zinc plates be long enough to dip into it.
The silver plate must bo a little shorter than
the zinc plates, so that it will not touch the
mercury. By this arangement the zinc plates
draw up the mercury as fast as it is worn off
by the action of the acid.
3664. Decomposing Cell. This is a
vessel of suitable shape and dimensions, con-
taining the plating or electrotyping solution ;
and is usually furnished with appliances over
it for suspending and sustaining in their pro-
per position the negative electrodes or arti-
cles to receive the metallic coating, and their
corresponding positive electrodes, or plates of
metal, which serve to complete the electric
circuit, and whoso decomposition serves to
keep up the strength of the solution. The
positive electrode must always be of the same
metal as that which the solution contains.
3665 . The Principles of the Galvanic
Battery Explained. If a piece of ordinary
metallic zinc be put into dilute sulphuric acid,
it is speedily acted upon by the acid, and
hydrogen gas is at the same time evolved
from its surface. If the zinc be taken out,
and a little mercury be rubbed over its sur-
face, an amalgamation takes place between the
two metals, and the plate becomes of a beauti-
ful bright silver appearance. If the zinc thus
amalgamated be again put into the dilute acid,
there is no action, for the mercury retains the
zinc with sufficient force to protect it from the
acid. If a piece of copper be immersed along
with the zinc, and the two metals be made to
touch each other, a particular influence is in-
duced among the three elements, zinc, copper,
and acid ; and the acid again acts upon the
zinc as if no mercury was upon it, but the
hydrogen is now seen to escape from the sur-
face of the copper ; this action will go on as
long as the two metals are kept in contact.
Or if, instead of causing the two metals to
touch, a wire be attached to each, and their
opposite ends are placed in a little dilute acid
in another vessel, the same action will take
place between the zinc and copper as when
they were in contact; but in this instance,
the ends of the two wires which dip into the
vessel containing acid will undergo a change ;
the one attached to the zinc will give off
a quantity of hydrogen gas, while the one
attached to the copper, supposing it to be
also copper, will rapidly dissolve.
Figure 1. Eepresents the zinc and copper,
placed in dilute sulphuric acid, brought into
contact ; in this experiment, gas will be seen
escaping from the copper.
Mg.2.
Fig. 3.
Figure 2. Zinc and copper, placed in dilute
acid, and wires attached, which, when con-
nected, will exhibit the same effects as in the
first case.
Figure 3. Shows the wires connected by
means of a liquid, such as acid and water,
sulphate of copper, etc., contained in a wine-
glass.
The copper and zinc, c and z, with the acid
in the first vessel, figure 3, constitute a battery
of one pair. The wine-glass in which the
wires are placed, is termed the decomposing
cell (see jYo. 3GG4), and is the receptacle or
vessel in which the process of electroplating
is effected. The above description will give
a tolerably clear idea of the principles of a
simple galvanic battery. Different kinds of
batteries are only different modifications or
applications of the same principles, and have
each their special excellence; but for electro-
plating, Smee's battery is the one usually
adopted.
3666. To Construct a Cheap Gal-
vanic Battery. Take a gallon stone jar,
and place a sheet-zinc cylinder therein, and
inside that a porous cup (a porous flower-pot
with a cork fitted in the hole will answer
after a fashion). Inside the porous cup place
a piece of sheet copper. Use a solution of
common salt next the zinc, and a solution of
sulphate of copper next the copper in the
porous cup, if a strong current be desired.
The liquids inside and outside the porous cup
should stand at the same level. Dilute sul-
phuric acid (1 part acid to 10 water) makes a
very constant, but weaker current.
3667. Description of a Smee's Bat-
tery. This apparatus consists of a vessel
containing a mixture of about 15 or 20 (Mor-
fit gives only 7) parts water to 1 part sul-
phuric acid, provided with a strip of baked
and varnished wood, long enough to stand
across the edge of the vessel, and grooved
lengthways underneath, to receive the edge of
ELECTROTYPING.
a silver plate, to which a short wire is at-
tauiied and connected through a hole in the
wood with a screw cap on the upper side of
the wood. Two plates of zinc are arranged,
one on each side of the strip of wood, and
secured by a screw clamp, the upper part of
which is also fitted with a screw cap. The
object of the screw caps is to receive and
secure the wires connecting with the decom-
posing cell. The zinc plates must first be
coated with amalgam {see No. 3662, also No.
3663) ; and the silver plate must be covered
with a coating of platina.
(See No. 3670.) The ar-
rangement of the parts
will be seen in the cut.
"When two or more cells
are used in combination,
forming a compound bat-
tery, the silver plate of
the first cell is connected
by a wire with the zinc
plates of the second ; the
silver plate of the second
cell is connected with the
zinc of the third cell; the
silver of the third with
the zinc of the fourth,
and so on through any number of cells.
The two wires connecting the battery with
the decomposing trough are attached, one to
the zinc plates of the first cell, and the other
to the silver plate of the last cell. In fact,
the zinc pole of the first, and silver pole of the
last cell, really constitute the battery, the in-
termediate cells each furnishing an additional
quota, as it were, of intensity, to the galvanic
current.
The wire connected with the zinc (or posi-
tive') plates is called the negative pole or
cathode ; and the wire connected to the
silver (or negative) plate is called the positive
pole or anode. The material used for con-
necting wires is usually copper, and should be
clean and bright, and in order to insure per-
fection of contact, the ends of the wire may
be amalgamated by dipping, first in a solu-
tion of nitrate of mercury, and then in metal-
lic mercury.
3668. Improved Liquid for the Gal-
vanic Battery. Mr. Yictor Barjon's new
battery liquid is made by mixing a solution
of bichromate of potash with a little lime,
and with sulphuric acid. He puts 2 pounds
bichromate of potash into a gallon of boiling
water, and lets the solution cool down to 68°,
and adds 2 ounces of lime. After stirring, he
adds sulphuric acid until the gravity reaches
35° Baume". Then, having stirred the whole,
he lets it stand for 24 hours, when it is ready
for use.
3669. Electrotyping by the Single
Cell Process. This is an adaptation of
Daniell's cell to the purposes of electrotyping,
and dispenses with any separate decomposing
cell ; in fact it is a galvanic battery and a de-
composing cell combined in one, and is useful,
for small objects, from its simplicity. About
J- fill a large jar (a preserve jar without any
neck is best), with a solution of sulphate of
copper (see No. 3661) ; insert in this a small
tubular porous vessel of about the same
height as the jar (these porous tubes can be
found at any store where chemical apparatus
is sold), and pour into it a mixture of 21 parts
water and 1 part sulphuric acid, until the
diluted acid in the porous tube stands at the
same level as the sulphate of copper solution
outside it. To one end of a piece of copper
wire fasten a strip of amalgamated zinc (see
No. 3662), which is to be inserted in the
porous tube ; to the other end of the wire
attach the object to be eleotrotyped, properly
prepared (see No. 3689), and place it in the
copper solution, with its face parallel to the
zinc plate, and about J an inch from the side
of the porous tube. In about 24 hours the
deposit of copper will be of about the thick-
ness of a card, and may be taken off. "When
not in use, the zinc should be taken out,
washed and dried ; and when in use must on
no account touch the bottom or any other
part of the porous tube. It is a good plan to
give the wire one twist round a stick of wood,
laid across the top of the tube, so as to sus-
pend and support the zinc. A few crystals of
sulphate of copper, enclosed in a piece of
lawn or net, should be hung from the edge of
the vessel just below the surface of the copper
solution, to replace the copper that deposits
on the object being electrotyped, and prevent
the solution from becoming weaker.
3670. To Coat Silver with Platina.
This is effected by the one cell process, sub-
stituting for the sulphate of copper solution,
water acidulated with sulphuric acid, and con-
taining a little chloride of platinum. The
silver is first roughened on the surface by ap-
plying strong nitric acid, and washed ; it is
then attached to the end of the wire leading
from the zinc plate in the porous cell, and im-
mersed in the platinum solution exactly as if
it were a medal to be electrotyped, until the
surface is covered with a dark and granular
deposit.
3671. Electrotyping with a Battery.
For this purpose a Smee's battery (see No.
3667) is usually employed, in connection with
a decomposing cell. (See No. 3664.) As the
method for electrotyping, or coating with
copper, is substantially the same as for other
metals, a description of the first will suffice.
The decomposing cell being charged with a
solution of sulphate of copper (see No. 3661),
the object, duly prepared (see No. 3689), to be
electrotyped, is properly secured in position,
and connected with the cathode or wire lead-
ing from the zinc plates of the battery. To
the anode or wire leading from the silver
plate, a positive electrode, consisting of a
piece of the same metal as the solution con-
tains (in this case, copper), is attached, and
immersed in the solution, face to face with
the object to be electrotyped ; as the copper
from the solution is precipitated on the ob-
ject, the piece of copper is dissolved, and thus
keeps up the strength of the solution. Any
number of objects may be electrotyped in the
same decomposing cell, provided that each is
connected with the zinc pole of the .battery,
and hangs facing a positive electrode. The
usual arrangement for this purpose consists of
a water-tight trough of suitable size and
shape (usually oblong), to contain the copper
or other metallic solution, and is provided
with metal bars, long enough to reach the
length of the trough and rest on the upper
edge at each end; the bars rest on dry
336
ELECTROTYPING.
varnished blocks of -wood, and are laid pa-
rallel to each other at a distance of 3 or more
inches apart, according as the space between
them is required. Plates of copper of nearly
the same length as the trough are suspended
from the bars, and submerged in the solution
parallel with them. These bars, and conse-
quently the copper plates (which constitute
continuous positive electrodes) are connected
with copper wire or ribbons to the anode, or
silver pole of the battery. Alternately be-
tween these bars, other bars are placed, exact-
ly similarly arranged, but having small pro-
jections or buttons on one of their sides, to
which the objects to be electrotyped are
secured by a wire, and suspended in the solu-
tion, face to face with its corresponding cop-
per plate. These latter bars are connnected
with the cathode or zinc pole of the battery.
It will thus be evident that each contiguous
pair of bars are mutually positive and nega-
tive electrodes, and the objects on the one
must closely face the copper plate on the
other. The accompanying cut will give some
idea of the arrangement of one pair of bars.
B B is the bar connected by the wire S
with the silver pole of the battery, and sup-
porting a plate of copper suspended in the
trough. In the cut, the copper is supposed
to be transparent, in order that the objects to
be electrotyped, suspended from the bar A A,
may be visible ; they are supposed to be be-
hind and closely facing the copper plate.
The bar A A is connected by the wire Z to
the zinc pole of the battery.
3672. To Obtain a Copper Mould of
a Coin. A fine copper wire must be put
round the edge of the coin and fastened by
twisting. Then cover the back part, and the
wire, upon which the deposit is not required,
with bees' wax or tallow, or, what is better,
imbed the back of the coin in gutta percha.
the surface moistened with sweet oil, by a
camel's-hair pencil, and then cleaned off by a
silk cloth, till the surface appears dry ; or, in-
stead of oil, the surface may be brushed over
with black lead, which will impart to it a
bronze appearance. The use of the oil or
black lead is to prevent the deposit adhering
to the face of the coin. The coin is now ready
to bo subjected to the single cell process (see
No. 3G69J, by which means a perfect counter-
part or mould of the coin is obtained. This
mould may next be treated exactly as de-
scribed for obtaining it from the original coin,
.and the deposit from it will be a fac-simile
of one side of the coin. With care, any num-
ber of duplicates may be taken from this
mould, if it be properly coated.
3673. Coating for Copper Moulds.
Take a gill of rectified spirits of turpentine,
and add to it about the size of an ordinary
pea of bees' wax. "When this is dissolved, wet
over the surface of the mould with it, and
then allow it to dry : the mould is then ready
to put into the solution. Medals taken from
moulds so prepared retain their beautifully
bright color for a long time. But when fine
line engravings are to be coated, the little
wax dissolved in the turpentine may be ob-
jectionable; so also is black lead, for both
have a tendency to fill up the fine lines. In
this case, let the turpentine wash be wiped
off with a silk handkerchief, instead of drying
it ; but for ordinary medals this objection
will scarcely apply.
3674. Preparation of Wax for Taking
Moulds. Whether the bees' wax have stearinc
in it or not, it is best to prepare it in the fol-
lowing manner: Put some common virgin
wax into an earthenware pot or pipkin, and
place it over a slow fire ; and when it is all
melted, stir into it a little white lead (flako
white), or black lead (plumbago), say about 1
ounce white lead to the pound of wax ; this
mixture tends to prevent the mould from
cracking in the cooling, and from floating in
the solution ; the mixture should be re-melted
two or three times before using it for the first
time. Resin has been recommended as a
i mixture with wax ; mixtures of which, in
various proportions, have been used with suc-
cess ; but when often used, decomposition or
some change takes place, which makes, the
mixture granular and flexible, rendering it
less useful for taking moulds. When resin is
used, the mixture, when first melted, should
be boiled, or nearly so, and kept at that heat
until effervescence ceases; it is then to be
poured out upon a flat plate to cool, after
which it may be used as described.
3675. To Take Moulds in Wax. The
medal to be copied must be brushed over
with a little sweet oil : a soft brush, called a
painter's sash tool, suits this purpose well :
care must be taken to brush the oil well into
all parts of the medal, after which the super-
fluous oil must be wiped off with a piece of
cotton or cotton wool. If the medal has a
bright polished surface, very little oil is re-
quired, but if the surface be matted or dead,
it requires more care with the oil. A slip of
card-board or tin is now bound round the
edge of the medal, the edge of which slip
should rise about one-fourth of an inch higher
than the highest part on the face of the
medal. This done, hold the medal with its
rim a little sloping, then pour the wax in the
lowest portion, and gently bring it level, so
that the melted wax may •gradually flow over ;
this will prevent the formation of air-bubbles.
Care must be taken not to pour the wax on
too hot, as that is one gjeat cause of failure in
getting good moulds ; it should be poured on
just as it is beginning to set in the dish. As
soon as the composition poured on the medal
is set (becomes solid), undo the rim, for if it
was allowed to remain on till the wax became
perfectly cool, the wax would adhere to it,
and would be liable to crack from shrinking.
ELECTROTTPING.
337
Pnt the medal and wax in a cool place, and
in about an hour the two will separate easily.
When they adhere, the cause is either that
too little oil has been used, or that the wax
3678. To Take Moulds of Plaster
from Plaster Models. When a plaster
mould is to be taken, the face of the model is
prepared differently to that described, in order
to prevent the adhesion of the two plasters
The best substance for this purpose is a mix-
was poured on too hot.
3676. To Take "Wax Moulds from . ,
Plaster. If the object from which the mould | ture of soft soap and tallow, universally used
is to be taken, which we assume to be a j by potters for preparing their moulds, and
medal, be composed of plaster of Paris, and called by them lacquer. It is prepared in the
the mould is to be taken in wax, the first following manner : k pound soft soap is put
operation is to prepare the plaster medal, into 3 pints clean water, which are set on a
mf_ i ?ii i? j •! -L i~ .. — A \* — , "• ** al *- •*--*-! 1 -xi !
Some boiled linseed oil, such as is used by
house painters, is to be laid over the surface
of the medal with a camePs-hair pencil, and
continued until it is perfectly saturated, which
is known by the plaster ceasing to absorb
any more of the oil. This operation succeeds
best when the medal is heated a little. The
medal should now be laid aside till the oil
completely dries, when the plaster will be
found to be quite hard, and haying the ap-
pearance of polished marble; it is, conse-
quently, fit to be used for taking the wax
mould," which is done in the same manner as
we have described for taking a wax mould
from a metallic medal. (See No. 3675.)
Many prefer saturating the medal with wa-
ter. This is best done by placing the medal
back down in the water, but not allowing it
to flow over the face ; the water rises, by capil-
lary attraction, to the surface of the medal,
rendering the face damp without being wet.
The rim being now tied on the plaster medal,
the melted wax is poured upon it. This
method is equally good, but liability to fail-
ures is much greater, caused generally by the
wax being too hot. The plaster medal may
be saturated with skimmed milk and then
dried ; by repeating this twice, the plaster as-
sumes on the surface an appearance like mar-
ble, and may be used for taking wax moulds.
3677. To Take Moulds in Plaster.
If a plaster of Paris mould is to be taken from
the metallic medal, the preparation of the
medal is the same as described in No. 3676 ;
and when so prepared with the rim of card-
board or tin, get a basin with as much water
in it as will be sufficient to make a proper
sized mould (a very little experience will
enable the operator to know this), then take
the finest plaster of Paris and sprinkle it into
the water, stirring it till the mixture becomes
of the consistence of thick cream ; then pour
a small portion upon the face of the medal,
and, with a brush similar to that used for oil-
ing it, gently brush the plaster into every
part of the surface, which will prevent the
formation of air-bubbles; then pour on the
remainder of the plaster till it rises to the
edge of the rim : if the plaster is good, it will
be ready for taking off in an hour. The
mould is then to be placed before a fire, or in
an oven, until quite dry, after which it is to
be placed, back downwards, in a shallow ves-
sel containing melted wax, not of sufficient
depth to flow over the face of the mould, al-
lowing the whole to remain over a slow fire
until the wax has penetrated the plaster, and
appears upon the face. Having removed it to
a cool place to harden, it will soon be ready
for electrotyping. Glycerine affords an ex-
cellent coating for the interior of plaster
moulds, to prevent the melted wax
adhering to the inside of the mould.
from
clear fire, and kept in agitation by stirring ;
when the mixture begins to boil, add from 1
to 1| ounces tallow, and keep boiling till it is
reduced in bulk to about 2 pints, when it is
ready for use. The surface of the medal
must be washed over with this lacquer, allow-
ing it to absorb as much as it can, when it
assumes the appearance of polished marble ;
it is now prepared with a nm of paper, and
the mould taken as directed for taking plaster
moulds. (See No. 3677.) "When hardened,
they will separate easily. "Wetting the p] aster
model with a solution of soap before taking
the cast will do, or, if the plaster model has
been saturated with oil or milk, it has only to
be moistened with sweet oil the same as a
metal model.
3679. To Take Moulds of Fusible
Alloy from Plaster Models. If a mould
of fusible metal be required from a plaster
model, the plaster may be saturated either
with boiled oil (see No. 3676), or the soap
and tallow lacquer (see No. 3678), and the
mould taken in the same manner as from a
metallic medal. (See No. 3677.)
3680. Copper Moulds from Plaster.
Many electro-metallurgists prefer taking a
mould in copper when the medal is of plaster
of Paris. This is done by the electrotype
process (see No. 3671); the plaster model is
saturated with wax over a slow fire, as
already detailed, and then prepared for taking
an electrotype in the usual manner (See No.
3672, ^-c.) "We need hardly mention that the
model in this case is destroyed ; but, not-
withstanding, in the case of plaster models,
to take a copper mould is the most preferable,
as it may be repaired in case of slight defect,
and it may be used over and over again with-
out deterioration. "When an electrotype is
required of a model that is undercut, or of a
bust or figure, the process which we have
described will not answer, as the mould can-
not separate from the model. In such cir-
cumstances the general method of proceeding
is to part the mould in separate pieces, and
then join these together. The material used
for this purpose is plaster of Paris. The
operation, however, to be well done, requires
a person of considerable experience.
3681. To Take Moulds in Gutta-.
Percha. Gutta-percha, as a material for
moulding, serves the purpose most admirably.
The method adopted for taking moulds is to
heat the gutta-percha in boiling water, or in a
chamber heated to the temperature of boiling
water, which makes it soft and pliable. The
medal is fitted with a metallic nm, or placed
in the bottom of a metal saucer with a cylin-
drical rim a little larger than the medal ; the
medal being placed back down, a quantity of
gutta-percha is pressed into the saucer, and as
much added as will cause it to stand above
338
ELECT HOTYPING.
the edge of the rim. It is now placed in a
common copying-press and kept under pres-
sure until it is quite cold and hard. The im-
pressions taken this way are generally very
fine. When the medal is not deep cut a less
pressure may suffice, but when the pressure
is too little the impression Trill be blunt.
Gutta-percha takes a coating of black lead
readily, and the deposit goes over it easily.
A mixture of gutta-percha and marine glue
has been recommended for moulds as superior
to gutta-percha alone. This method of mould-
ing by pressure is adopted, in principle, by
printers, for making electrotype plates from
type and engravings, employing sheets of
prepared wax, at a temperature which gives
it the proper consistency.
3682. To Mould the Face of a Person
in Wax. Take 1 pound new wax, J pound
resin, melt them at a slow fire, let them cool
till you can endure some of it on your hand
without burning it; then, having oiled the
face with olive oil, and covered the hair of
the eye-lids and eye-brows with paste, with a
brush nimbly cover the face about the thick-
ness of a quarter of a dollar, being careful not
to stop the nostrils, and that the person does
not close his eyes firmly enough to wrinkle
his face, because that will render the face de-
formed. Take the wax ofi7 gently, and
strengthen it with clay on the back, that it
may not give way. After this manner you
may cast all sorts of faces; laughing, weeping,
or wry faces ; also fruits or anything else, di-
viding the mould into two pieces with a warm
knife ; then fortify them with clay and join
them together.
3683. To Mould Figures in Paste.
Take the crumbs of a new drawn white loaf,
mould it until it becomes as close as wax,
and very pliable ; beat it, and roll it with a
rolling-pin, as fine and as far as it will go ;
then apply it to the figure to be moulded; dry
it in a stove, and it will be very hard ; and to
preserve it from vermin, you may mix a little
powder of aloes with it.
3684. Composition for Taking Moulds
of Medals, &c. Melt together equal parts
of spermaceti, stearine or hard tallow, and
white wax. Or : Mix together by melting, £
pound black resin, i pound hard tallow, and
6 ounces bees' wax. This last is more adapted
for coarse work, such as architectural orna-
ments, <fcc., and is poured on the object to be
copied (previously oiled) in a melted state.
Articles in plaster of Paris must be first
soaked in water, observing that none remains
on the surface so as to interfere with the de-
sign.
3685. To Make and Use Elastic
Moulding. The process patented by Mr.
Parks for taking a mould of any kind of model
in one piece, is excellently adapted for the
electrotypist. The material is composed of
glue and molasses. 12 pounds glue are steeped
for several hours in as much water as will
moisten it thoroughly; this is put into a me-
tallic vessel, which is placed in a hot bath of
boiling water. When the glue falls into a
fluid state, 3 pounds of molasses are added,
and the whole is well mixed by stirring.
Suppose, now, that the mould of a small bust
is wanted, a cylindrical vessel is chosen so
deep that the bust may stand in it an inch or
so under the edge. The inside of this vessel
is oiled, a piece of stout paper is pasted on
the bottom of the bust to prevent the fluid
mixture from going inside, and if it is com-
posed of plaster, sa»d is put inside to prevent
it from floating. It is next completely
drenched in oil and placed upright in the ves-
sel. This done, the melted mixture of glue
and molasses is poured in till the bust is sub-
merged to the depth of an inch. The whole
must stand for at least 24 hours, till it is per-
fectly cool throughout — after which it is taken
out by inverting the vessel upon a table, when,
of course, the bottom of the bust is presented
bare. The mould is now cut by means of a
sharp knife, from the bottom up the back of
the bust to the front of the head. It is next
held open by the operator, when an assistant
lifts out the bust and the mould is allowed to
re-close. A piece of brown paper is tied round
it to keep it firm. The operator has now a
complete mould of the bust in one piece; but
he cannot treat it like wax moulds, as its sub-
stance is soluble in water, and would be de-
stroyed if put into the solution. A mixture
of wax and resin, with occasionally a littlo
suet, is melted and allowed to stand till it is
on the point of setting, when it is poured
carefully into the mould and left to cool. The
mould is then untied and opened up as before ;
the wax bust is taken out, and the mould
may be tied up for other casts. Besides wax
and resin, there are several other mixtures
used' — deer's fat is preferable to common suet,
stearine, etc. The object is to get a mixture
that takes a good cast and becomes solid at a
heat less than that which would melt the
mould.
3686. To Take Moulds of Figures.
If the model or figure be composed of plaster
of Paris, a mould is often taken in copper by
deposition. The figure is saturated with wax
(see No. 3688), and copper deposited upon it
sufficiently thick to bear handling without
damage when taken from the model. The
figure with the copper deposit is carefully
sawn in two, and then boiled in water, by
which the plaster is softened and easily sepa-
rated from the copper, which now serves as
the mould in which the deposit is to be made.
It is prepared in the same way as we have de-
scribed for depositing in copper moulds. (See
No. 3672.) When the deposit is made suffi-
ciently thick, the copper mould is peeled off,
and the two halves of the figure soldered to-
gether. The copper moulds which are de-
posited upon the wax models taken in the
elastic moulding are often treated in the same
manner; but more generally these moulds
are used for depositing silver or gold into
them, to obtain fac-similes of the object in
these metals, in which case the copper moulds
are dissolved off" by acids.
3687. To Coat Figures with Copper.
When plaster busts or figures are wanted in
copper, the usual way is to prepare the figure
with wax (see No. 3688) and to coat it over
with a thin deposit of copper, letting the cop-
per remain. Some operators, when it can be
done, remove the plaster and wash over the
inside with an alloy of tin and lead melted.
In this case the copper must previously be
cleaned by washing first in a solution of pot-
ash, and then with chloride of zinc. The lat-
ELECTROTYPING.
339
ter mode will cause the alloy to adhere to the
copper and giro it strength. In either of
these cases the deposit must not bo very thick,
or it will throw the figures out of proportion,
such as the features of a bust, etc. Any
slight roughness of deposit may bo easily
smoothed down by means of fine emery or
glass paper. (Sec No. 1935.)
3688. To Prepare a Plaster Cast for
Electrotyping. First dry the plaster cast
in the oven thoroughly, then get equal parts
of bees' wax and common resin, melt them
together, and boil the cast until it will not
absorb any more ; when cold, get some good
black lead and cover the cast entirely, not
#hick, but a bright surface. (Sec No. 3G89.)
3889. To Prepare Non-Metallic
Moulds to Receive Deposit. "Were any
of the plaster or wax moulds, described above,
attached to the zinc and immersed in the cop-
per solution in the same manner as described
iu N"o. 3369, no deposit would bo obtained,
because neither the plaster nor the wax is a
conductor of electricity. Some substance
must now be applied to the surface in order
to give it conducting power. There are seve-
ral ways of communicating this property, but
the best and most simple for the articles iinder
consideration is to apply common black lead
(carburet of iron) in tho following manner:
A copper wire is put round the edge of the
medal, or, if wax moulds are used, a thin slip
of copper may be inserted into the edgo of
the mould — or, being slightly heated and laid
upon tho back, the two will adhere. A fine
brush is now taken (a small hat brush is very
suitable) and dipped into fine black lead, and
brushed over the surface of tho metal. The
brushing is to be continued until all the face
round to the wire upon tho edge, or slip of
copper forming connection, has a complete
metallic lustre. A bright polish is neces-
sary to obtain a quick and good deposit.
In brushing on the black lead, care should
be taken not to allow any to go upon the
back or beyond tho copper connection, or the
deposit will follow it, and so cause a loss of
copper, and make the mould more difficult to
separate from tho deposit; being, as it were,
incased. "When the face of tho mould is
properly black-leaded, tho copper wire con-
nected with it is attached to tho zinc plate in
tho porous cell, and the mould immersed in
the copper solution ; the deposit will immedi-
ately begin upon the copper connection, and
will soon spread over every part, completely
covering the black-lead surface. "When the
deposit is considered sufficiently thick for re-
moving— which, in ordinary circumstances,
will require from 1 to 3 days — the medal is
taken out of tho solution, and washed in cold
water, and tho connection is taken off. If
the deposit has not gone far over tho edgo of
the mould, the two may bo separated by a
gentle pull ; if otherwise, the superfluous
deposit must be eased off, and if care be taken
the wax may bo fit to use over again; but
when the mould is plaster of Paris, however
well it may be saturated with wax, it is sel-
dom in a condition to use again. If the
plaster mould be large and thick, it is advisa-
ble to coat the back with wax or tallow,
which is done by brushing it over with either
substance in a melted state ; the mould, being
cold, will not absorb the wax or tallow ; hence
it may be recovered again. Tho sulphate of
copper possesses so penetrating a quality that
if tho slightest imperfection occurs in tho
saturation of tho mould by wax, tho solution
will penetrate through it, and the copper
will be deposited upon the face of the object
adhering to tho plaster, giving to the metal
a rough, matted appearance, and seriously in-
juring it.
8699. To Use Metal Moulds. The
mould in fusible alloy does not require to bo
black-leaded, but the surface to be electro-
typed must be prepared with turpentine, &c.,
(see No. 3673), and the back and edgo must
bo protected by a coating of wax or other
non-conducting material ; it may bo connect-
ed with tho zinc pole by putting a wire round
its edgo previous to laying on the non-con-
ducting substance, such as tallow or wax,
which should also cover the wire. Or a slip
of copper or wire may be laid upon the back,
and fastened by a drop or two of sealing-wax;
the back is then coated, but care must be
taken that tho wax does not get between tho
connection and the medal, which will prevent
deposit. Tho deposit on this mould goes on
instantaneously. "When sufficiently thick, it
may bo taken off in the same manner as from
the wax mould. These moulds may be used
several times, if care be taken not to heat
them, as they easily melt. The medals ob-
tained from metallic moulds prepared with
the turpentine solution have a bright surface,
which is not liable to change easily, but if tho
mould has been prepared with oil or composed
of wax or plaster, the metal will either bo
dark, or will very easily tarnish. For tho
means of preserving them by bronzing see
Nos. 3771, $c.
3691. Precautions on Putting the
Moulds into a Solution. In putting
moulds into the copper solution, tho operator
is often annoyed by small globules of air ad-
hering to tho surface, which either prevent
the deposit taking place upon these parts, or,
when they are very minute, permit tho de-
posit to grow over them — causing small
hollows in the mould, which give a very ugly
appearance to the face of tho medal. To
obviate this, give tho mould, when newly put
into the solution, two or three shakes, or give
tho wire attached to it, while tho mould is in
the solution, a smart tap with a key or knife,
or anything convenient; but the most certain
means wo havo tried, is to moisten tho sur-
face with alcohol just previous to putting it
into the copper solution. A little practice in
these manipulations will soon enable the
operator to avoid these annoyances.
3692. Electrotyping on Large Ob-
jects. When busts or figures, whether of
wax or plaster of Paris, are to bo coated with
copper, with no other conducting surface than
black-lead, it is attended with considerable
difficulty to the inexperienced electrotyper.
Tho deposit grows over all the prominent
parts, leaving hollow places, such as armpits,
neck, etc., without any deposit; and when
once missed, it requires 3onsiderable manage-
ment to get these parts coated, as the coated
parts give a sufficient passage for the current
of electricity. It is recommended by some
electrotypists to take out tho bust, and coat
340
ELECTROPLATING.
the parts deposited upon the wax, to prevent
any further deposit on them ; but this practice
is not good, especially with plaster of Paris,
for an electrotype ought never to be taken
out till finished. Sometimes the resistance
of the hollow parts is occasioned by the solu-
tion becoming exhausted from its position in
regard to the positive pole. In this case a
change of position effects a remedy. It may
be remarked that when a bust or any large
surface having hollow parts upon it, is to be
electrotyped, as many copper connections as
possible ought to be made between these
parts and the zinc of the battery. Let the
connections with the hollow parts be made
with the finest wire which can be had,
and let the zinc plate in the cell have a
large surface compared to the surface of the
figure, and the battery be of considerable in-
tensity; if attention is paid to these condi-
tions, the most intricate figures and busts
may be covered over in a few hours. Care
has to be observed in taking off the connec-
tions from the deposit, or the operator may
tear off a portion of the deposit ; if the wires
used are fine, they should be cut off close to
the deposited surface.
3693. To Coat Busts and Figures.
Busts and figures, and other complicated
works of art, which cannot be perfectly coated
with black-lead, may be covered by a film of
silver or gold, which serves as a conducting
medium to the copper. This is effected by a
solution of phosphorus in sulphuret of carbon.
The solution ot phosphorus is prepared by
adding to each pound of that substance 15
pounds bisulphuret of carbon, and then thor-
oughly agitating the mixture ; this solution
is applicable to various uses, and, amongst
others, to obtaining deposits of metal upon
non-metallic substances, either by combining
it with the substances on which it is to be
deposited, as in the case of wax, or by coating
the surface thereof. Any of the known pre-
parations of wax may be treated in this way,
but the one preferred is composed of from (;
to 8 ounces of the solution, 5 pounds wax, and
5 pounds deer's fat, melted together at a low
heat, on account of the inflammable nature o1
the phosphorus. The composition thus ob-
tained is acted upon by an electrotyping solu-
tion as readily as if it were coated with the
black-lead.
3694. To Gild or Silver-Plate Flow-
ers, &c. If the solution of phosphorus (see
No. 3693) is to be applied to the surface of the
article, an addition is made to it of 1 pounc
wax or tallow, 1 pint spirits of turpentine,
and 2 ounces pure India-rubber (dissolved
with 1 pound asphalt, in bisulphuret of car-
bon), for every pound phosphorus contained
in the solution. The wax and tallow being
first melted, the solution of India-rubber anc
' asphalt is stirred in ; then the turpentine, anc
after that the solution of phosphorus is added
The solution prepared in this manner is ap
plied to the surfaces of non-metallic sub
stances, such as wood, flowers, etc., by im
mersion or brushing ; the article is then im
mersed in a dilute solution of nitrate of silver
or chloride of gold ; in a few minutes the sur
face is covered with a fine film of metal
sufficient to ensure a deposit of any requirec
thickness on the article being connected with
any of the electrical apparatus at present em-
)loyed for coating articles with metal. The
solution intended to be used is prepared by
dissolving 4 ounces silver in nitric acid, and
afterwards diluting the same with 12 gallons
water ; the gold solution is formed by dissolv-
ng 1 ounce gold in nitre-muriatic acid (aqua
regia), and then diluting it with 10 gallons
water. The solutions of silver and gold, pre-
pared as above, will last for a long time, and
serve for a great many articles. When it is
convenient it is best to use both solutions.
The connecting wire should first be attached
;o the article to be coated, before being dipped
into the phosphorus solution, but connected
at such parts as will not hurt the appearancdp
of the object by leaving a mark when it is
taken off. Care should be taken not to touch
the article with the hands after it is dipped
into the solution. The object supported by
the connections is immersed in the phosphorus
solution, where it remains for two or three
minutes. "When taken out it is dipped into
the silver solution, and, as soon as the surface
becomes black, having the appearance of a
piece of black china, it is to be dipped several
times in distilled water, and then immersed
in the solution of gold about three minutes ;
the surface takes a bronze tinge by the re-
duction of the gold. It is next washed in
distilled water by merely dipping, not by
throwing water upon it. The wire connection
is now attached to the zinc of the battery,
and then the article put into the copper solu-
tion, and in a few minutes the article is coated
over with a deposit of copper. A thin cppper
surface may thus be given to small busts or
figures without sensibly distorting the features.
3695. Electrotyping on "Wood. Dip
the wood in melted wax, then brush over
with black-lead until polished ; insert a wire of
copper, and see that it is also covered with the
plumbago, and in contact with that already
on the wood; now attach to the pole of the
battery, and immerse in the solution of sul-
phate of copper. The battery should not be
too strong.
The foregoing
• J matter refers to electrotyping, that is,
copper-coating, by galvanism. Electroplating,
or coating with silver, is conducted in a simi-
lar manner to electrotyping as far as general
principles and manipulation are concerned,
but differs in the solutions used, as well as in
the preparation of the objects to be electro-
plated.
3697. To Prepare Cyanide of Silver.
First dissolve 1 ounce pure silver in 2 ounces
nitric acid and 2 ounpcs hot water, after
which further dilute with 1 quart hot water.
The propriety of diluting the nitrate of silver
before precipitating by the cyanide of po-
tassium arises from the fact that the salts of
potash and soda (such as the nitrates, chlor-
ides, and sulphates), when in strong solution,
dissolve small quantities of the silver salt,
and thus cause a loss, which is prevented by
previous dilution with water. The nitric r.cid
used must be free from hydrochloric (muri-
atic) acid; to a small quantity of the acid add
a few drops of solution of nitrate of silver •,
ELECTEOPLA TING.
if it gives a milky white precipitate, it con-
tains muriatic acid, and should be rejected.
Then dissolve 5 ounces cyanide of potassium
in 1 quart water. Add this by degrees to the
silver solution until the whole of the silver it
precipitated, which may be tested thus : Stir
the mixture and allow it to settle ; then drop
into the clear liquid a very smaH quantity of
the second preparation, from the end of a glass
rod ; if the clear liquid is rendered turbid, it
is a proof that the whole of the silver is not
separated ; but if the liquid remains un-
changed, it shows that the silver is entirely
separated. The clear liquid is then to be
poured off, and the precipitate, which is cyan-
ide of silver, washed at least 4 times in hot
water, dried and bottled for use. The use
and handling of cyanide of potassium requires
great caution, as 11 grains of it are sufficient
to kill a grown person. The fumes thrown
off while dissolving the silver in nitric acid
are also highly deleterious, and must not be
inhaled ; it is better, therefore, not to dissolve
silver in a close room.
3698. To Make Silver Solution. The
solution of silver used for plating consists of
cyanide of silver dissolved in potassium, add-
ing a solution of cyanide of potassium to the
cyanide of silver until it is all dissolved. The
resulting solution constitutes the cyanide of
potassium and silver, and forms the plating
solution. It ought to be filtered previous to
using, as there is always formed a black sedi-
ment, composed of iron, silver, and cyanogen,
which, if left in the solution, would fall upon
the surface of the article receiving the deposit,
and make it rough. The sediment, however,
must not be thrown away, as it contains sil-
ver. The cyanide of potassium, used to dis-
solve the cyanide of silver, may be so diluted
that the plating solution, when formed, shall
contain 1 ounce of silver in the gallon ; of
course the proportion of silver may be larger
or smaller, but that given is best for plating.
In dissolving 100 ounces of silver, the follow-
ing proportions of each ingredient are those
which have been found in practice to be the
best. Take 7 pounds of the best nitric acid,
and 61 ounces of cyanide of potassium, of the
average quality; this quantity will precipitate
the 100 ounces of silver dissolved in the acid
solution. After this is washed, take 62 oun-
ces more of cyanide of potassium, the solution
of which will dissolve the precipitate; this
being done, the plating solution is then form-
ed. Of course these proportions will \iary
according to the difference in the quality of
the materials ; but they will serve to give an
idea of the cost of the silver solution prepared
in this manner.
3699. To Dissolve Cyanide of Silver
in Yellow Prussiate of Potash. Dissolve
the cyanide of silver by yellow prussiato of
potash (ferrocyanido of potassium), 3 pounds
of which are required to dissolve 1 ounce of
silver. This forms an excellent plating solu-
tion, and yields a beautiful surface of silver.
It must have a weak battery power, and con-
sequently the silver is very soft. The posi-
tive electrode does not dissolve in this solution ;
there is formed upon its surface a white scaly
crust, which drops off and falls to the bottom;
and the solution soon becomes exhausted of
silver, and will need to be renewed.
3700. Solution Made with Oxide of
Silver. A good silver solution for electro-
plating white metal and brass is made by dis-
solving 1 part oxide of silver in 8 parts cyanide
of potassium and 64 parts warm water. Ox-
ide of silver is made by precipitating a solu-
tion of the nitrate by a dissolved alkali like
potassa or baryta.
3701. To Make Silver Solution by
the Battery. The best and cheapest
method of making up the silver solution is by
the battery, which saves all expense of acids
and the labor of precipitation. To prepare a
silver solution which is intended to have an
ounce of silver to the gallon, dissolve 123
ounces cyanide of potassium in 100 gallons
water; get one or two flat porous vessels,
submerge them in this solution to within half
an inch of the rim, and fill them to the same
height with the solution ; in these porous
vessels place small plates or sheets of iron or
copper, and connect them with the zinc pole
of a battery; in the solution outside the
shallow vessels place a sheet or sheets of
silver connected with the silver pole of the
battery. This arrangement being made at
night, a,nd the power employed being a
Smee's .battery of 6 cells, the zincs 7 inches
square, it will be found in the morning
that there will bo dissolved 60 to 80 ounces
of silver from the sheets. The solution is now
ready for use; and by observing that the
articles to be plated have less surface than
the silver plate forming the positive electrode,
for the first two days, the solution will then
have the proper quantity of silver in it. Oc-
casionally a little silver is found in the
porous cell; it is therefore not advisable to
throw away the solution in them without
first testing it for silver, which is done by
adding a little muriatic acid to it. The ama-
teur electrotypist may, from this description,
make-up a small quantity of solution for sil-
vering his medals or figures. For example, a
half-ounce of silver to the gallon of solution
will do very well; a small quantity may bo
prepared in little more than an hour. As the
cyanide of potassium dissolves silver without
the aid of a battery, a plating liquor may be
formed by merely allowing a piece of silver to
steep in this solution for a few days ; but this
is tedious and uncertain, although for small
operations, arid where porous vessels are not
convenient, it will serve the purpose.
3702. To Recover Silver from Solu-
tion. When a silver solution gets out of
order, and cannot bo rendered fit for use
again, the silver may bo recovered by adding
to the solution any acid that will neutralize
the alkali; if nitric or sulphuric acid be used,
the silver precipitates as cyanide, but if hydro-
chloric acid be used, the" silver will be pre-
cipitated as a chloride; in cither case the
solution should be diluted, or a portion of the
precipitate will bo redissolved. The precipi-
tate is allowed to deposit, the clear liquor de-
canted, and the vessel filled with water to
wash the precipitate, which is afterwards col-
lected upon a filter and dried, and then mixed
with twice its weight cf carbonate of potash,
and fused in a Hessian crucible for 15 min-
utes, or until the fused fluid ceases to ef
fervesce. On removing the crucible, and
pouring the whole into an iron ladle, when
342
ELECTROPLATING.
cool the silver will bo found in the metallic
state at the bottom of the ladle. In these
operations, when pouring the acid into the
cyanide solution, great care must be taken
not to inhale the fumes given off, which are
very abundant and poisonous. The operation
should bo done in the open air, and even then
it is bad. Instead of throwing down the
silver by an acid, it is better to evaporate the
solution to dryness, and to fuse the product
as described ; in which case the cyanide is an
excellent reducing flux, requiring no addition
of carbonate of potash, and saves the necessity
of evolving poisonous fumes.
3703. Test for Free Cyanide of Po-
tassium, in Solutions. If wo dissolve a
small quantity of sulphate of copper and add
to it an excess of ammonia, there is produced
a deep blue color. Cyanide of potassium will
destroy the blue color, in a nxed chemical
proportion. To obtain this proportion, take
ten grains of pure cyanide of potassium amd
dissolve in water ; then take a certain quan-
tity, say 100 grains, of sulphate of copper, and
convert it into ammoniuret, the whole meas-
uring a given quantity, and pour from an
alkalimeter this blue liquor into the cyanide
of potassium till it ceases to destroy the color,
then mark the number of graduations required,
and that amount of copper solution will rep-
resent 10 grains cyanide of potassium — a
quantitative test will thus be got for the full
cyanide of potassium in the solution, and
should bo used as follows : Say that the color
of GO graduations of the blue solution was de-
stroyed by the 10 grains of cyanide of potas-
sium ; then, to test the quantity of free cyanide
of potassium in the plating solution, take 60
graduations of the blue liquor in any conve-
nient vessel, and add to it from an alkalimeter
the plating solution, till the color of the blue
liquor is destroyed, then note the quantity
which contains 10 grains free cyanide, from
which the quantity in the whole solution may
be calculated.
3704. Test for the Quantity of Free
Cyanide of Potassium, in Solutions. It
has been already mentioned that the cyanide
of silver, as it forms upon the surface of the
silver plate, is dissolved by the cyanide of
potassium. This renders it necessary to have
always in the solution free cyanide of po-
tassium. "Were we to use the pure crystalline
salt of cyanide of potassium and silver, dis-
solved in water, without any free cyanide of
potassium, we should not obtain a deposit be-
yond a momentary blush, as the silver plate
or electrode would get an instantaneous coat-
ing of cyanide of silver, and this not being
dissolved, the current would stop. The
quantity of free cyanide of potassium required
in the solution varies according to the
amount of silver that is present, and the
rapidity of the deposition. If there be too
little of it, the deposit will go on slowly ; if
there be too much, the silver plate will be dis-
solved in greater proportion than the quantity
deposited, and the solution will consequently
get stronger. The proportion we have found
best is about half by weight of free cyanide of
potassium to the quantity of silver in solu-
tion; thus, if the solution contains 2 ounces
of silver to the gallon, it should have 1 ounce
of free cyanide of potassium per gallon. This
is known by taking some nitrate of silver,
dissolving it in distilled water and placing it
in a common alkalimeter (see No. 82), gradu-
ated into 100 parts. The proportion of the
nitrate of silver in the solution is to be such
that every two graduations of the solution
should contain 1 grain. A given quantity of
tho plating solution is now taken — say 1
ounce by measure, and the test solution of
nitrate of silver is added to it by degrees, so
long as the precipitate formed is redissolved.
When this ceases tho number of graduations
is then noted, and tho following equation
gives the quantity of free cyanide. Every
175 nitrate of silver are equal to 130 cyaiiido
of potassium in solution. Suppose 20 gradu-
ations were taken, equal to 10 grains nitrate
of silver, then 175 : 130 : : 10 : 7.4 grains free
cyanide of potassium. This, multiplied by
160, tho number of fluid ounces per gallon,
will make about 2i ounces. We have taken
2 graduations to 1 grain of nitrate of silver,
that tho solution may be considerably dilute
and less liable to error. The following table
is calculated at a half grain nitrate of silver to
the graduation, and will be a guide to the
student or workman. The quantity of solu-
tion tested is 1 ounce by measure.
Number of
graduations used.
Frcocyanido per gallon.
oz.
dwt.
gr-
1
0
2
13
2
0
5
3
3
0
7
16
4
0
10
6
5
0
12
19
6
0
15
9
7
0
17
22
8
1
0
13
9
1
3
1
10
1
5
12
11
1
8
5
12
1
10
19
13
1
13
8
14
1
15
22
15
1
18
11
16
2
1
2
17
a
3
14
18
2
6
2
19
2
8
11
20
2
11
0
3705. To Cleanse Articles for Electro-
plating. Articles that are to be plated are
first boiled in an alkaline lye, to free them from
grease, then washed from the ]yc, and dipped
into dilute nitric acid, which removes any
oxide that may be formed upon the surface ;
they arc afterwards brushed over with a bard
brush and fine sand. (See No. 3381.) The
alkaline lye should be in a caustic state, which
is easily effected by boiling tho carbonated
alkali with slacked lime, until, on the addition
of a little acid to a small drop of the solution,
no effervescence occurs. (See No. 101.) The
lime is then allowed to settle, and the clear
liquor is fit for use. The lye should have
about ^ pound soda-ash, or pearl-ash, to the
gallon of water. The nitric acid, into which
the article is dipped, may be diluted to nuch
an extent that it will merely act upon the
metal. Any old acid will do for this purpose.
In large factories the acid used for dipping
ELECTROPLA TING.
343
before plating is generally afterwards em-
ployed for the above purpose of cleaning.
3706. To Prepare Articles for the
Decomposing Cell. The article being thor-
oughly cleaned and dried, has a copper wire
attached to it, either by twisting it round the
article or putting it through any open part of
it, to maintain it in suspension. It is then
dipped into nitric acid as quickly as possible,
and washed through water, and then immersed
in the decomposing cell containing silver solu-
tion, suspending it by the wire which con-
nects with the zinc pole of the battery. The
nitric acid generally used and found best for
dipping has a specific gravity 1.518, and con-
tains 10 per cent, sulphuric acid. The article
is instantaneously coated with silver, and
ought to be taken out after a few seconds and
well brushed. On a largo scale, brushes of
brass wire attached to a lathe are used for this
purpose ; but a hard hair brush with a little
fine sand will do for small work. This brush-
ing is used in case any particle of foreign
matter may be still on the surface. It is then
replaced in the solution, and in the course of
a few hours a coating of the thickness of
tissue paper is deposited on it, having the
beautiful matted appearance of dead silver.
Any thickness of silver may be given to a
plate by continuing the operation a proper
length of time. 1J to li ounces of silver to
the square foot of surface will give an excel-
lent plate about the thickness of ordinary
writing paper. "We may remark that, in de-
positing silver from the solution, a weak
battery may be used ; though when the bat-
tery is weak the silver deposited is soft, but if
used as strong as the solution will allow, the
silver will be equal in hardness to rolled or
hammered silver. If the battery is stronger
than the solution will stand, or the article
very small compared to the size of the plate
of silver forming the positive electrode, the
silver will be deposited as a powder. Gas
should never be seen escaping from either
pole; and the surface of the article should
always correspond as nearly as possible with
that of the positive electrode, otherwise the
deposit runs the risk of not being good; it
requires more care, and the solution is apt to
be altered in strength, because if the positive
electrode be large compared with the negative,
the solution will become stronger in silver,
while if smaller in proportion the solution
will become exhausted of silver.
3707. To Silver-plate Large Articles
(such as those plated in factories), it is not
always sufficient to dip them in nitric acid;
wash and immerse them iu the solution, in
order to effect a perfect adhesion of the two
metals. To secure this, a small portion of
quicksilver is dissolved in nitric acid, and a
little of this solution is added to water, in
sufficient quantity to enable it to give a white
silvery tint to a piece of copper when dipped
into it; the article then, whether made of
copper, brass, or German silver, after being
dipped in the nitric acid and washed, is dip-
ped into the nitrate of mercury solution till
the surface is white; it is then well washed
by plunging it into two separate vessels con-
taining clean water, and finally put into the
plating solution. This secures perfect adhe-
sion of the metals. One ounce of quicksilver
thus dissolved will do for a long time, though
the liquor is used every day. When the
mercury in this solution is exhausted, it is
liable to turn the article black upon being
dipped into it; this must be avoided, as in
that case it also causes the deposited metal to
strip off.
3708. To Preserve the Dead, Matted
Appearance of Silver after Electropla-
ting. If it is desired to preserve the surface
in this condition, the article must be taken
out of the electroplating solution, care being
taken not to touch it by the hand, and im-
mersed in boiling distilled water for a few
minutes. On being withdrawn, sufficient heat
has been imparted to the metal to dry it in-
stantly. If it is a medal, it ought to be put
in an air-tight frame immediately, or if a
figure, it may be at once placed under a glass
shade, as a very few days' exposure to the air
tarnishes it, by the formation of snlphuret of
silver, especially in a room where there is fire
or gas.
3709. To Remove the Chalky Ap-
pearance of Silver after. Plating. When
articles are taken out of the electroplating
solution they are swilled in water, and then
put into boiling water. They are afterwards
put into hot sawdust, which dries them per-
fectly. Their color is chalk-white. They are
generally weighed before being scratch-
brushed ; that is, brushed with fine wire
brushes (see Nos. 3381 and 3706), and old ale,
beer, or water containing in solution a little
gum, glue, or sugar, but the amateur may
use a hard hair brush. It may be afterwards
burnished according to the usual method of
burnishing, by rubbing the surface with con-
siderable pressure with polished steel or the
mineral termed bloodstone. Although this
operation does not displace any of the silver,
still, in taking off 'the chalky appearance,
there is a slight loss of weight. The appear-
ance after scratching is that of bright metallic
silver.
3710. To Increase the Brightness of
the Deposit. A little sulphuret of carbon
added to the plating solution prevents the
chalky appearance, and gives the deposit the
appearance of metallic silver; the reaction
which takes place in this mixture is not yet
understood. The best method of applying the
sulphuret of carbon is to put one or two oun-
es into a largo bottle, then fill it with strong
silver solution having an excess of cyanide of
potassium, and let it repose for several days,
shaking it occasionally. ' A little of this sil-
ver solution is added, as required, to this pla-
ting solution, which will givo the articles plated
the same appearance as if scratched. It is
also found that the presence of sulphuret of
carbon prevents the solution from going out
of order ; indeed, we have seen a solution that
lias been constantly working from two to
three years, while, generally, they were sub-
ject to go out of order for a time, in less than
one year — although, after standing a time,
they would recover — but these are curious re-
actions not yet investigated.
3711. To Insure Success in the Elec-
troplating Process. Iu order to insure
success iu silver-plating upon metals and me-
tallic alloys, two solutions of silver are re-
quisite ; the first, to whiten or fix the silver
34=4=
ELECTROPLATING.
to such metals as iron, steel, britannia metal,
and German silver ; the second, to finish the
work, as any amount of pure silver can be de-
posited from the second solution.
3712. First, or Whitening Solution.
Dissolve 2£ troy pounds cyanide of potassium,
8 ounces carbonate of soda, and 5 ounces
cyanide of silver in 1 gallon rain or distilled
water. This solution should be used with a
compound battery of 3 to 10 pairs, according
to the size of the work to be platad. The use
of this solution will insure the adhesion of sil-
ver to all kinds of brass, bronze, type metal,
&c., without employing mercury, the frequent
use of which is injurious to the health of the
operator.
3713. Second, or Finishing Solution.
Dissolve 4£ troy ounces cyanide of potassium,
and H ounces cyanide of silver, in 1 gallon
rain or distilled water. This solution should
be used with one large cell of Smee's battery,
observing that the silver plate is placed as
near the surface of the articles to be plated as
possible.
3714. Boettger>s Test for the Silver
on Silver-Plated Metals. The test fluid
consists of a saturated solution of bichromate
of potassa in nitric acid, specific gravity 1.2.
Any dirt or varnish having been removed by
strong alcohol from the metallic surface to be
tested, a drop of the test fluid is applied to it
by means of a glass rod, and immediately
afterwards washed off with some cold water.
If pure silver is present (as regards silver
coins, these are left in contact with the test
fluid for a greater length of time), there will
appear clearly a blood-red colored mark
(chromate of silver). Upon German silver
the test liquid appears brown, but after wash-
ing with water the blood-red colored mark
does not appear ; the so-called britannia-metal
is colored black ; on platinum no action is vis-
ible ; metallic surfaces coated with an amal-
gam of mercury yield a reddish speck, which,
however, is entirely washed off by water; on
lead and bismuth the test liquid forms a yel-
low-colored precipitate; zinc and tin are
both strongly acted upon by this test liquid,
which, as regards the former metal, is en-
tirely removed by water, while, as regards
the latter, the test liquid is colored brown-
ish, and addition of water produces a yellow
precipitate which somewhat adheres to the
tin.
3715. Plating on Iron or Steel. Take
2 quarts rain water, dissolve 2 pounds cyanide
of potassium, and filter. In order to plate
steel or iron, dip it into pure sulphuric acid
for one minute, then clean with pumice stone,
and brush; rinse, and hang in solution of
cyanide of potassium for three minutes, or
until it becomes white; then hang in silver
solution until plated heavv enough. (See No.
3698.)
3716. Taking Silver from Copper,
Etc. First by stripping or dissolving it off;
this is done by putting into a stoneware or
copper pan some strong sulphuric acid (vit-
riol), to which a little nitrate of potassa is
added; the article is laid into this solution,
which will dissolve the silver without materi-
ally affecting the copper ; nitrate of potassa
is added by degrees, as occasion requires ; and
if the action is slow a little heat is applied to
the vessel. The silver being removed, the
article is well washed and then passed through
the potash solution, and finished for plating.
When the sulphuric acid becomes saturated
with silver it is diluted, and the sSver is pre-
cipitated by a solution of common salt ; the
chloride of silver formed is collected and fused
in a crucible with carbonate of potash, when
the silver is. obtained in a metallic state, as a
knob or button. The crucible should not be
over two-thirds full, and should be kept in fu-
sion till effervescence ceases. The crucible is
then removed from the fire, and, when cool, it
is broken. (See No. 3702.) The article thus
stripped by acids often shows a little rough-
ness, not from the effects of the acid, but be-
cause the copper under the silver has not
been polished ; it is therefore a necessary
practice in the electroplating factories to pol-
ish the articles before plating. This is done
by means of a circular brush, more or less
hard as required, fixed upon a lathe, and a thin
paste made of oil and pumice-stone ground as
fine as flour. By this process the surface of
any article can be smoothed and polished ;
but a little experience is required to ensure
success, and enable the operator to polish the
surface equally without leaving brush marks.
After this the article must be cleaned in pot-
ash before it is plated.
3717. To Recover Silver from Copper.
Instead of stripping off the silver by means
of acid, as in No. 3716, it is a more common
and preferable mode to brush off the silver
by the operation just described. In this case
the brushings must be collected, dried,. and
burned; this may be done in an iron pan.
keeping it at a red heat until all carbonaceous
matters are consumed ; the remainder is fused
with carbonate of soda or potash, when the
silver is obtained, in combination with a little
copper.
3718. Cyanide of Silver and Potas-
sium, its Decomposition During the
Plating Process. The silver salt in the
plating solution is a true double salt, being,
as already described, a compound of 1 equi-
valent of cyanide of silver, and 1 of cj-am'de of
potassium — two distinct salts. In the decom-
position of the silver solution by the electric
current, the former, cyanide of silver, is alone
affected: the silver is deposited, and the
cyanogen passes to the positive plate or elec-
trode. The cyanide of potassium is therefore
set at liberty upon the surface of the article
receiving the silver deposit, and its solution,
being specifically lighter than the general
mass of the plating solution, rise# to the top ;
this causes a current to take place along the
face of the article being plated. If the article
has a fiat surface, suppose that of a waiter or
tray, upon which a prominence exists, as a
mounting round the edge, it will cause lines
and ridges from the bottom to the top.
Newly formed solutions are most subject to
produce this annoyance.
3719. Dead Silvering for Medals.
The perfect smoothness whicn a medal gene-
rally possesses on the surface, renders it very
difficult to obtain a coating of dead silver
upon it, having the beautiful silky lustre
which characterizes that kind of work, except
by giving it a very thick coating of silver,
which takes away the sharpness of the im-
ELECTRO-GILDING.
345
pression. This dead appearance can be easily
obtained by putting the medal, previous to
silvering, in a solution of copper, and deposit-
ing upon it, by means of a weak current, a
mere blush of copper, which gives the face of
the medal that beautiful crystalline richness
that deposited copper is known to give. The
medal is then to be washed from the copper
solution, and immediately to i>e put into the
silver solution. A very slight coating of sil-
ver will suffice to give the dead frosty lustre so
much admired, and in general so difficult to
obtftin.
3720. To Recover Silver from Old
Plated Goods. Oil of vitriol, together with
5 per cent, of nitrate of soda, is heated in a
cast-iron boiler, or a stoneware pan, to 212°
Fahr. The silver-plated clippings are placed
in a sheet-iron bucket or cullender, which is
fastened to a pulley that it may be moved
about in the acid. As soon as the silver is
removed, the cullender is raised, allowed to
drain, then immersed in cold water and emp-
tied, to be again used in the same manner.
When the acid bath is fresh, the desilvering
proceeds very rapidly, and even with heavy
plated ware takes but a few minutes; with
the gradual saturation of the bath more time
is required, and it is readily perceived when
the acid must be renewed. The small amount
of acid solution adhering to the copper, pre-
cipitates its silver when brought into the wa-
ter. To obtain its complete removal, the
clippings, when raised from the desilveriug
bath, and before immersion in water, may be
dipped into a second bath prepared in the
same manner, which is afterwards to be used
in place of the first. The saturated bath, on
cooling, congeals to a crystalline semi-fluid
mass of sulphate of copper and of soda. The
silver is removed by chloride of sodium (com-
mon salt) which is added in small portions at
a time, while the solution is yet warm. The
chloride of silver separates readily, and is
washed and reduced in the usual manner. The
acid solution contains but a very small por-
tion of copper, hardly enough to pay for re-
covering.
3721. To Recover Silver from Cop-
per. This process is applied to recover the
silver from the plated metal, which has been
rolled down for buttons, toys, etc., without
destroying any large portion of the copper.
For this purpose, a dissolving solution is com-
posed of 3 pounds oil of vitriol, 1£ ounces
nitre, and 1 pound water. The plated metal
is boiled in it till the silver is dissolved, and
then the silver is recovered by throwing com-
mon salt into the solution. (See No. 3214.)
3722. Test Fluid for Silver-Plated
Goods. For this purpose a testing fluid is
prepared by adding pure nitric acid to pow-
dered red chromate of potash, and mixing them
in such a manner that a part of the latter
remains in suspension, the whole being kept
well stirred during the mixing. Equal parts
by weight of each may be taken. The nitric
must be quite free from hydrochloric acid, and
have the proper degree of concentration, be-
ing neither too fuming nor too dilute ; it
should have a specific gravity between 1.20
and 1.25. When the mixture has been pre-
pared for a few hours, and been stirred several
times, the reddish-colored .liquid is poured off
from the residue and kept in a stoppered
bottle.
3723. To Test Silver-Plated Goods.
The ordinary and very accurate method of
testing of silver is founded upon the insolu-
bility of chloride of silver in dilute acids and
in water. This otherwise satisfactory test is,
however, difficult to carry out when an article
is very thinly plated. A drop of the test
liquid (see last receipt) is then brought in
contact with the metal to be tested, and im-
mediately washed off again with water. If
a visible blood-red spot remains, silver is
present. This method requires only the fol-
lowing precautions: The metallic surface
must have been quite cleansed from grease or
varnish with spirits of wine — water must be
poured over the treated surface before judging
of the color, as that of the testing fluid is
altered by the metal, and the red precipitate
is not distinctly visible until the colored
liquid has been washed off. The red spot can
afterwards be very easily removed with the
finger. By this method the slightest trace of
silver in an alloy may be ascertained. "When
an article is suspected to be only thinly plated,
a very minute drop of the testing fluid should
be used. With no other metal or alloy does
this red spot, so characteristic of silver, ap-
pear; in some cases the testing fluid only
corrodes the surface of the metal, whilst in
others colored precipitates are formed, which,
however, cannot be confounded with those of
silver. German silver brought into contact
with the testing fluid affords no red spot after
being washed. The spot will, however, have
been strongly corroded. Britannia metal
yields a black spot; zinc is strongly corroded;
platinum is not attacked ; lead gives a yellow
precipitate; tin is strongly affected by the
fluid ; when the brownish-colored testing
fluid is washed off, a yellow precipitate is per-
ceived, which adheres tightly to the metal ;
copper is strongly attacked, a tarnished sur-
face of this metal is brightened by the action
of the acid.
EleCtrO-Gilding. The opera-
tion of gilding, or covering other met-
als with a coating of gold by the battery, is
performed in the same manner as electro-
plating, with the exception of a few practical
modifications.
3725. To Prepare Chloride of Gold.
Dissolve 1 part gold in 3 parts nitro-hydro-
chloric acid (aqua regia) ; evaporate until
vapors of chlorine begin' to be disengaged,
then set the solution aside to crystallize.
Aqua regia consists of 1 part nitric acid and
2 parts (both by measure) muriatic (hydro-
chloric) acid.
If aqua ammonia be added to a solution of
gold in aqua regia, it precipitates a reddish-
yellow deposit, which may be collected,
washed, and dried. This is the ammoniuret
of gold, and must be handled and prepared
with great caution, it being the fulminate of
gold.
3726. To Prepare a Solution of Gold.
Add a solution of cyanide of potassium to a
solution of chloride of gold (see No. 3725)
until all the precipitate is redissolved ; but
this gives chloride of potassium in the solu-
346
ELECTRO-GILDING.
tion, -which is not good. In the preparation
of the solution by this means there are some
interesting reactions. As the chloride of
gold has always an excess of acid, the addi-
tion of cyanide of potassium causes violent
effervescence, and no precipitate of gold takes
place until all the free acid is neutralized,
•which causes a considerable loss to the
cyanide of potassium. There is always
formed in this deposition a quantity of am-
monia and carbonic acid, from the deposition
of the cyanato of potash ; and if the chloride
of gold bo recently prepared, and hot, there is
often formed some aurate of ammonia (ful-
minate of gold), which precipitates with the
cyanide of gold. "Were this precipitate to be
collected and dried, it would explode when
slightly heated. By previously diluting the
chloride of gold, or using it cold, this com-
pound is not formed. After the free acid
is neutralized by the potash, further addition
of the cyanide of potassium precipitates the
gold as cyanide of gold, having a light yellow
color; but as this is slightly soluble in am-
monia and some of the alkaline salts, it is not
advisable to wash the precipitate, lest there
be a loss of gold. Cyanide of potassium is
generally added until the precipitate is redis-
solved ; consequently much impurity is formed
in the solution, namely, nitrate and carbonate
of potash with chloride of potassium and
ammonia. Notwithstanding, this solution
works very well for a short time, and it is
very good for operations on a small scale.
3727. To Prepare Cyanide of Gold.
Dissolve 1 ounce of fine gold in 28 penny-
weights nitric acid and 2 ounces muriatic
acid, and add 1 quart hot water. Precipitate
with the second preparation used for cyanide
of silver (see No. 3697), and proceed in the
same manner.
3728. To Prepare a Solution of Gold.
Dissolve 4 troy ounces cyanide of potassium
and 1 ounce cyanide of gold in 1 gallon rain
or distilled water. This solution is to be used
"•it about, 00^ Fahr., with a battery of at least
two cells. Gold can be deposited, of various
shades to suit the taste, by adding to the gold
solution a small quantity of the cyanides of
silver, copper, or zinc, and a few drops of
hydrosulphnret of ammonia.
3729. To Prepare a Gold Solution
by the Battery Process. To prepare a
gallon of gold solution, dissolve 4 ounces
cyanide of potassium in 1 gallon water, and
heat the solution to 1CO° Fahr. ; now take a
small porous cell and fill it with this cyanide
solution, and place it inside the gallon of solu-
tion ; into this cell is put a small plate of iron
or copper, and attached by a wire to the zinc
polo of a battery. A piece of gold is placed
into the largo solution, facing the plate in the
Eorous cell, and attached to the silver of the
attery. The whole is allowed to remain in
action until the gold, which is to be taken out
from time to tirno and weighed, has lost the
quantity required in solution. By this means
a solution of any strength can bo made, ac-
cording to the time allowed. The solution in
the porous cell, unless the action has con-
tinued long, will have no gold, and may be
thrown away. Half an hour will suffice for a
small quantity of solution — of course any
quantity of solution may be made up by the
same means. For all the operations of gilding
by the cyanide solution, it must be heated to
at least 130° Fahr. The articles to be gilt
are cleaned in the way described for silver
(see No. 3705), but are not dipped into nitric
acid previous to being put into the gold solu-
tion. 3 or four minutes is sufficient time to
gild any small article. After the articles are
cleaned and dried they are weighed, and,
when gilt, they are weighed again; thus
the quantity of gold deposited is ascer-
tained. Any convenient means may be
adopted for heating the solution. The 'one
generally adopted h to put a stoneware pan
containing the solution into an iron or tin-
plate vessel filled with water, which is kept
at the boiling point either by being placed
upon a hot plate or over gas. The hotter the
solution the less battery power is required.
Generally a battery of 3 or 4 cells is used for
gilding, and the solution is kept at 130° to
150° Fahr. But 1 cell will answer if the solu-
is heated to 200°.
3730. Process of Electro-Gilding.
The process of gilding is generally performed
upon silver articles. The method of proceed-
ing is as follows : When the articles are
cleaned as described in No. 3705, they are
weighed, and well scratched with wire brush-
es, which cleanse away any tarnish from the
surface, and prevents the formation of air-
bubbles. They are then kept m clean water
until it is convenient to immerse them in the
gold solution. One immersion is then given,
which merely imparts a blush of gold ; they
are taken out and again brushed ; they- are
then put back into the solution and kept
there for 3 or 4 minutes, which will be suffi-
cient if the solution and battery are in good
condition ; but the length of time necessarily
depends on these two conditions, which must
be studied and regulated by the operator.
3731. To Electro-Gild Iron, Tin, and
Lead. Iron, tin, and lead are very difficult
to gild direct ; they therefore generally have
a thin coating of copper deposited upon them
by the cyanide of copper solution (see Nos.
3754 and 3755), tmd immediately put into the
gilding solution.
3732. Conditions Required in Electro-
Gilding1. The gilding solution generally
contains from one-half to an ounce of gold in
the gallon, but for covering small articles,
such as medals, for tinging daguerreotypes,
gilding rings, thimbles, etc., a weaker solution
will do. The solution should be sufficient
in quantity to . gild the articles at once, so
that it should not have to be done bit by bit;
for when there is a part in tho solution and a
part out, there will generally be a line mark
at the point touching tho surface of the solu-
tion. Tho rapidity with which metals are
acted upon at tho surface line cf tho solution
is remarkable. If tho positive electrode is
not wholly immersed in the solution, it will,
in a short time, bq cut through at the surface
of the water, a:3 if cut by a knife. This is
also the case in silver, copper, and other solu-
tions.
3733. To Maintain the Strength of
the Gold Solution. As the gold solution
evaporates by being hot, distilled water must
from time to time be added. The water
should always be added when the operation
ELECTRO-GILDING.
34=7
of gilding is over, not when it is about to be
commenced, or the solution will not give so
satisfactory a result. "When the gilding opera-
tion is continued successively for several days,
the water should be added at night. To ob-
tain a deposit of a good color, much depends
upon the state of the solution and battery ; it
is therefore necessary that strict attention be
paid to these, and the more so as the gold so-
lution is very liable to change if the size of
the article receiving the deposit is not the
same as that of the positive electrode plate.
The result of a series of observations and ex-
periments, continued daily throughout a
period of nine months, showed that in five
instances only the deposit was exactly equal
to the quantity dissolved from the positive
plate. In many cases the difference did not
exceed 3 per cent., though occasionally it rose
to 50 per cent. The average difference, how-
ever, was 25 per cent. In some cases double
the quantity dissolved was deposited, in
others the reverse occurred — both resulting
from alterations made in the respective pro-
cesses ; for in these experiments, the state of
tb,e solution and the relative sizes of the neg-
ative and positive electrodes were varied, as
far as practicable. The most simple method
of keeping a constant register of the state of
the solution is to weigh the gold electrode
before putting it into the solution ; and, when
taking it out, to compare the loss with the
amount deposited. A little allowance, how-
ever, must be made for small portions of
metal dissolved in the solution, from the arti-
cles that are gilt, which, when gilding is per-
formed daily, is considerable in a year. A
constant control can thus be exercised over
the solution, to which there will have to be
added from time to time a little cyanide of
potassium, a simple test of requirement being
that the gold positive electrode should always
come out clean, for if it has a film or crust it
is a certain indication that the solution is de-
ficient of cyanide of potassium. Care must
be taken to distinguish this crust, which is
occasionally dark-green or black, from a black
appearance, which the gold electrode will take
when very small in comparison to the article
being gilt, and which is caused by the ten-
dency to evolve gas. In this case an addition
of cyanide of potassium would increase the
evil. The black appearance from the ten-
dency to the escape of gas has a slimy ap-
pearance. This generally takes place when
the solution is nearly exhausted of gold, of
which fact this appearance, taken conjointly
with the relative sizes of the electrodes, is a
sure guide.
3734. To Regulate the Color of the
Gilding1. The gold upon the gilt article, on
coming out of the solution, should be of a dark
yellow color, approaching to brown; but this,
when scratched (sec No. 3709), will yield a
beautifully rich deep gold. If the color is
blackish it ought not to bo finished, for it will
never either brush or burnish a good color.
If the batteiy is too strong, and gas is given
off from the article, the color will be black ;
if the solution is too cold, or the battery
rather weak, the gold will be light-colored ;
so that every variety of shade may be impart-
ed. A very rich dead gold may be made by
adding ammoniuret of gold (see No. 3725) to
the solution just as the articles are being put
in ; or, what is better, add some sulphuret of
carbon in the same way as for silver solutions
(see No. 3710), which affects the color and
appearance of the gold in the same way as it
does the silver.
3735. To Improve the Color of Gild-
ing1. A defective colored gilding may be im-
proved by the help of the following mixture:
3 parts nitrate of potassa (saltpetre), IB parts
alum, 1| parts sulphate of zinc, and 1£ parts
common salt, are put into a small quantity of
water, to form a sort of paste, which is put
upon the articles to be colored; these are
then placed upon an iron plate over a clear
fire, so that they will attain nearly to a black
heat, when they are suddenly plunged into
cold water. This gives them a beautiful high
color. Different hues may be had by a varia-
tion in the mixture.
3736. To Electro-gild with Bed
Gold. Gold having the red color of 14 carat
gold may be deposited by the battery in the
following manner: Prepare a solution of
cyanide of copper by adding cyanide of potas-
sium to a solution of sulphate of copper until
the precipitate at first thrown down is redis-
solved. Add to this a solution of cyanide of
gold (see No. 3727) in sufficient quantity to
give, on trial, the desired color of gold de-
posit. "When using this solution, the positive
electrode plate should be of gold of the same
color as that desired to be deposited.
3737. Practical Suggestions in Elec-
j tro-gilding. According to the amount of
' gold deposited, so will be its durability. A
few grains will serve to give a gold color to a
very large surface, but it will not last. This
proves, however, that the process may be
used for the most inferior quality of gilding.
Gold thinly laid upon silver will be of a light
color, because of the property of gold to
transmit light. The solution for gilding sil-
ver should be made very hot, but for copper
it should be at its minimum heat. A
mere blush may be sufficient for articles not
subjected to wear; but on watch cases, pencil
cases, chains, and the like, a good coating
should bo given. An ordinary sized watch
case should have from 20 grains to a penny-
weight ; a mere coloring will be sufficient for
the inside, but the outside should have as
much as possible. A watch case thus gilt,
for ordinary wear, will last five or six years
without becoming bare. Small silver chains
should have 12 grains ; pencil cases of ordin-
ary size should have from three to five grains ;
a thimble from 1 to 2 grains. These sugges-
tions will serve as a guide to amateur gilders,
many of whom, having imparted only a color
to their pencil cases, feel disappointed upon
seeing them speedily become bare; hence
arises much of the obloquy thrown upon the
process.
3738. To Deposit Copper, Silver, or
Gold by the Battery on Paper and other
Fibrous Material. The whole question is
to make the paper a good conductor of elec-
tricity without coating it with a material
which may peel off. One of the best methods
is to take a solution of nitrate of silver, pour
in liquid ammonia till the precipitate at first
formed is entirely dissolved again, and place
the paper, silk, or muslin for one or two hours
34,3
ELECTRO-GILDING.
in this solution. After taking it out and dry-
ing well, it is exposed to a current of hydrogen
gas, by which operation the silver is reduced
to a metallic state, and the material becomes
so good a conductor of electricity that it may
be electroplated with copper, silver, or gold, in
the usual manner.
3739. To Dissolve Gold from Gilt
Articles. Before regilding articles which
are partly covered with gold, or when the
gilding is imperfect, and the articles require
regilding, the gold should be removed from
them by putting them into strong nitric acid ;
and when the articles have been placed in the
acid, by adding some common salt, not in so-
lution, but in crystals. By this method gold
may be dissolved from any metal, even from
iron, without injuring it in the least. After
coming out of the acid, the articles must be
polished. The best method, however, is to
brash off the gold as described for silver (see
No. 3706), which gives the polish at the same
time.
3740. To Recover Gold from its Acid
Solution. When the acid has become satu-
rated by the gold that has been dissolved in it,
or when it ceases to dissolve the gold rapidly,
it is diluted with several times its bulk of
water, and then soda or potash added till the
greater portion of the acid is neutralized. A
solution of sulphate of iron (copperas) is then
added, so long as a precipitate is formed ;
when this settles down it is carefully collected
upon a paper filter, washed and "dried, and
then fused in a crucible with a little borax and
common salt, when the gold is found as a
button at the bottom of the crucible. "When
the gold is brushed off, the brushings are
burned at a red heat, and the residue fused
with carbonate of soda and a little borax ; in
this case, the gold will not be pure, and will
have to be refined.
3741. To Separate Gold from Gilt
Copper or Silver. Take a solution of borax
in water, apply to the gilt surface, and
sprinkle over it some finely powdered sul-
phur; make the article red hot, and quench it
in water; then scrape off the gold, and re-
cover it by means of lead. (See No. 3191.)
3742. To Becover Gold from Gilt
Articles. Gold may be stripped from arti-
cles that have been gilt by placing them in
strong nitric acid, in which some salt has
been previously dissolved. "When a number
of articles have been stripped in the solution,
it begins to work slowly, and it is time then to
abandon it, and use a new one. The gold may
then be recovered from the old solution, by
evaporating it to dryness, and fusing the resi-
duum with a small piece of soda or potash,
the gold being fused into a button. The addi-
tion of a little saltpetre will tend to make the
refining process more complete. As there is
Borne trouble connected with this process, it is
scarcely worth adopting where very small
quantities of gold are concerned. In such a
case it is a better plan to suspend the article,
from which the gold is to be removed, in the
gilding bath, in the place of the anode, when
gilding another article.
3743. Electro-Gilding Without a
Battery. Dissolve 9 parts terchloride of
gold in 1000 to 2000 parts pure water ; then
add 360 parts bicarbonate of potassa, and boil
for two hours. The metallic article, if not
copper, is covered with a film of copper sim-
ultaneously with its being immersed into the
boiling gilding liquor, by placing a piece of
sheet-copper along with it. As soon as a de-
posit of copper is observed, the piece of cop-
per is taken out, and the liquor continued
boiling until a deep yellow color is obtained.
The article is then taken out, washed off with
water, and rubbed with a metallic brush.
"When the liquor has again become clear by
settling and decanting, it is again heated to
boiling, the article immersed, while the piece
of copper is moved about in the fluid without
touching the other. The same operation may
be renewed ad libitum, until the desired thick-
ness of gold is obtained.
3744. Plating and Gilding Without
a Battery. "Watts gives the following very
useful solution of silver or gold for plating or
gilding without the aid of a battery : Take 1
ounce nitrate of silver, dissolved in 1 quart
distilled or rain water. "When thoroughly
dissolved, throw in a few crystals of hypo-
sulphite of soda, which will at first form a
brown precipitate, but which eventually be-
comes redissolved if sufficient hyposulphite
has been employed. A slight excess of this
salt must, however, be added. The solution
thus formed may be used for coating small
articles of steel, brass, or German silver, by
simply dipping a sponge in the solution and
rubbing it over the surface of the article to be
coated ; the silver becomes so firmly attached
to the steel (when the solution has been care-
fully made) that it is removed with considera-
ble difficulty. A solution of gold may be made
in the same way, and applied as described.
A concentrated solution of either gold or sil-
ver, thus made, may be used for coating parts
of articles which have stripped or blistered,
by applying it with a camel-hair pencil to the
part, and touching the spot at the same time
with a thin clean strip of zinc.
3745. To Distinguish Gold from its
Imitations. The ordinary method of test-
ing gold by the touchstone is founded upon
the insolubility of this metal in nitric acid. If
a mark be made on the touchstone with the
article under examination, the gold is not dis-
solved by this acid, whereas golden colored
alloys of inferior value are dissolved and dis-
appear immediately. "When articles are very
thinly gilded, tbs detection of the gold in
this manner is uncertain, in which case the
following method may bo used with advan-
tage. (See No. 3190.)
3746. Test Fluid for Gilded Arti-
cles. A little carbonate of copper is put into
a test-tube, and to this is added, drop by
drop, pure hydrochloric acid, till the blue
powder has dissolved to a clear green fluid,
occasionally warming it over a spirit lamp.
This concentrated solution of chloride of cop-
per is diluted for use with from 10 to 11
times its volume of distilled water.
3747. To Test Gilded Articles.- Be-
fore testing, the metallic surface must be well
cleaned. This can be done effectually by
brushing it for a minute or two with a little
spirits of wine, or, better, with absolute al-
cohol. The surface having dried, a little of
the testing fluid (see last receipt) is dropped
on and allowed to remain in contact for about
ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS.
a minute. The fluid is then removed by
means of a small pipette, and the surface of
the metal completely dried -with bibulous
paper ; if no dark spot be then visible, the ar-
ticle is coated with pure gold. If the metallic
surface is but lightly gilded, a very slight
blackening is sometimes remarked, which
may throw a doubt upon the result. In such
a case, to make quite certain, a little of the
surface may be scraped off, and then the test-
ing fluid again applied. If a dark spot is then
perceived, the article may be considered as
very thinly gilded.
T^lectroplating with. Va-
-J--JriO11S MetalS. The following
receipts furnish the means of coating objects
with tin, zinc, brass, German silver, and other
metals.
3749. To Electroplate Copper, Brass,
or German Silver, with Aluminum,
take equal measures of sulphuric acid and
water, or take 1 measure each sulphuric and
hydrochloric acids and 2 measures water ; add
to the water a small quantity of pipe-clay, in
the proportion of 5 or 10 grains by weight to
every ounce by measure of water (or k ounce
to the pint). Rub the clay with the water until
the two are perfectly mixed, then add the acid
to the clay solution, and boil the mixture in a
covered glass vessel 1 hour. Allow the liquid
to settle, take the clear, supernatant solution,
while hot, and immerse in it an earthen por-
ous cell, containing a mixture of one measure
of sulphuric acid and ten measures of water,
together with a rod or plate of amalgamated
zinc; take a small Smee's battery of 3 or 4
cells, and connect its positive pole by a wire
with the piece of zinc in the porous cell.
Having perfectly cleaned the surface of the
article to be coated, connect it by a wire with
the negative pole of the battery, and immerse
it in the hot clay solution; immediately
abundance of gas will be evolved from the
whole of the immersed surface of the article,
and in a few minutes, if the size of the article
is adapted to the quantity of the current of
electricity passing through it, a fine white de-
posit of aluminum will appear all over the
surface. It may then be taken out, washed
quickly in clean water, and wiped dry, and
polished ; but if a thicker coating is required,
it must be taken out when the deposit
becomes dull in appearance, washed, dried,
polished, find reimmersed; and this must be
repeated at intervals, as often as it becomes
dull, until the required thickness is obtained.
"With small articles it is not absolutely neces-
sary that a separate battery be employed, as
the article to be coated may be connected, as
in the one cell method (see No. 3669), by a
wire with the piece of zinc in the porous cell,
and immersed in the outer liquid, when it will
receive a deposit, but more slowly than when
a battery is employed.
3750. To Electroplate with Tin. Tin
is easily deposited from a solution of proto-
chloride of tin. If the two poles or electrodes
be kept about 2 inches apart, a most beautiful
phenomenon may be observed. The decom-
position of the solution is so rapid that it
shoots .out from the negative electrode like
feelers, towards the positive, which it reaches
in a few seconds. The space between the
poles seems like a mass of crystallized threads,
and the electric current passes through them
without affecting further decomposition. So
tender are these metallic threads that when
lifted out of the solution they fall upon the
plate like cobweb. Seen through a glass they
exhibit a beautiful crystalline structure. Tin
may also be deposited from its solution in
caustic potash or soda.
3751. Galvanic Tinning. M. Mais-
trasse-Dupr6, it appears, had been commis-
sioned by the French government to apply,
by galvanic means, tin upon divers objects
which had been made of so-called galvanized
iron — that is, iron covered with zinc. To this
purpose he applied galvanic elements made of
copper and zinc plates, the length of which is
48 inches, the width 28 inches, placed in a
leaden trough and separated and isolated by
means of wooden partitions. The copper
sheet was immersed in a mixture of equal
parts of acetate of lead and common salt, and
the zinc element was placed in weak sulphuric
acid, specific gravity 1.060. This battery re-
mains in constant action and working order
for 8 days, at an outlay of only 2 francs.
When the objects which are galvanically
tinned are afterwards heated to the melting
point of tin, the goodness and durability of
hot-tinned materials is thus obtained. Copper
thus tinned (galvanically), and afterwards
heated, is superficially converted into bell
metal, while the method of tinning galvan-
ically has the great advantage over the old
method, that it can be applied to objects to
which the method of tinning in ordinary use
is not applicable.
3752. To Electroplate with Brass.
Brass can be deposited when the solution is
composed of 1 part sulphate of copper in 4
parts hot water, 8 parts sulphate of zinc in 16
parts of hot water, 18 parts cyanide of potas-
sium in 36 parts of hot water. These are
mixed, and 250 parts of water added. Instead
of a copper positive electrode plate, one of
brass is necessary ; the solution is required to
be kept nearly boiling, and a powerful battery
to be used.
3753. To Prepare Cyanides of Cop-
per and Zinc. For copper, dissolve 1 ounce
of sulphate of copper in 1 pint of hot water.
For zinc, dissolve 1 ounce of the sulphate of
zinc in 1 pint of hot water, and proceed the
same as for cyanide of silver. (See No. 3697.)
3754. Cyanide Solution of Copper
or Zinc. Dissolve 8 ounces (troy)' cyanide
of potassium, and 3 ounces cyanide of copper
or zinc in 1 gallon of rain or distilled water.
They should be used at about 160° Fahr.;
with a compound battery of 3 to 12 cells.
3755. Cyanide Solution of Copper.
To prepare copper solutions by means of
cyanide of potassium, for covering iron and
other positive metals, there are several meth-
ods, but the method adopted in manufacturing
purposes is as follows : To a solution of sul-
phate of copper, add a solution of ferrocyanide
of potassium (yellow prussiate of potassa),
so long as a precipitate continues to be form-
ed ; this is allowed to settle, and, the clear
liquor being decanted, the vessel is filled with
350
ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS.
water, and when the precipitate settles, the
liquor is again decanted, and these -washings
are repeated until the sulphate of potash is
•washed quite out. This is known by adding
a little chloride of barium to a small quantity
of the washings ; if no white precipitate is
formed by this test, the precipitate is suffi-
ciently washed. A solution of cyanide of
potassium is now added to this precipitate
until it is dissolved, during which process the
solution becomes warm by the chemical reac-
tion that takes place. The solution is filtered,
and allowed to repose all night. If the solu-
tion of cyanide of potassium that is used is
strong, the greater portion of the ferrocj'anide
of potassium crystallizes in the solution, and
may be collected and preserved for use again.
If the solution of cyanide of potassium used
to dissolve the precipitate is dilute, it will be
necessary to condense the liqnor by evapora-
tion, to obtain the yellow prussiate in crys-
tals ; the remaining solution is the coppering
solution. Should it not be convenient to
separate the yellow prussiate by crystalliza-
tion, the presence of that salt in the solution
docs not interfere with its power of depositing
copper.
3756. To Prepare Iron for Coating
with Copper. When it is required to cover
an iron article with copper, it is first steeped
in hot caustic potash or soda, to remove any
grease or oil. Being washed from that, it
is placed for a short time in dilute sulplraric
acid, consisting of about 1 part of acid to 1G
parts water, which removes any oxide that may
exist. It is then washed in water, and scoured
with sand till the surface is perfectly clean,
and finally attached to the battery, and im-
mersed in the cyanide solution. (See No.
3755.) All this must be done with dispatch,
so as to prevent the iron combining with
oxygen. An immersion of five minutes' dura-
tion in the cyanide solution is sufficient to
deposit upon the iron a film of copper. But
it is necessary to the complete protection of
the iron, that it should have a tolerably thick
coating ; and, as the cyanide process is expen-
sive, it is preferable, when the iron has re-
ceived a film of copper by the cyanide solu-
tion, to take it out, wash it in water, and
attach it to a single cell or weak battery, and
put it into a solution of sulphate of copper,
if there is any part not sufficiently covered
with copper by the cyanide solution, the sul-
phate will make these parts of a dark color,
which a touch of the finger will remove.
"When such is the case, the article must be
taken out, scoured, and put again into the
cyanide solution till perfectly covered. A
little practice will render this very easy. The
sulphate solution, when used for covering iron,
should be prepared by adding to it by degrees
a little caustic soda, so long as the precipitate
formed is redissolved. This neutralizes a
great portion of the sulphuric acid, and thus
the iron is not so readily acted upon.
3757. To Coat Iron with Zinc. In
covering iron with zinc, the precautions ne-
cessary for copper are not required; zinc being
the positive metal, acids have a stronger
affinity for it than for iron, and therefore an
acid solution may be used. The solution gen-
erally used is the sulphate, used in the same
way as sulphate of copper. (See No. 3661.)
3758. Test for Galvanized Iron.
TVhen zinc is deposited on iron by galvanic
agency, it should form a chemical combination
with the iron, and not be merely attached
thereto. It is proposed by Mr. T. Bruce
"Wan-en, of England, to use this fact for prac-
tically testing the efficiency of the galvanrza-
tion. If mercury be poured over the surface,
the zinc that is only locally attached will
form an amalgam with the mercury. Mr.
"Wan-en also uses this as a quantitative test, to
verify the amount of zinc in combination with
the iron.
3759. To Make a Cyanide Solution
of Brass. Dissolve 1 pound (troy) cyanide
of potassium, 2 ounces cyanide of copper, and
1 ounce cyanide of zinc, in 1 gallon rain or
distilled water ; then add 2 ounces muriate of
ammonia. This solution is to be used at
160° Fahr. on smooth work, with a compound
battery of 3 to 12 cells.
3 760. Electroplating with Platinum.
This metal has never tyet been successfully
deposited as a protecting coating to other
metals. A solution may be made by dissolv-
ing it in a mixture of nitric and muriatic
acids, the same as is employed in dissolving
gold ; but heat must be applied. The solu-
tion is then evaporated to dryness, and to the
remaining mass is added a solution of cyanide
of potassium ; next, it must be slightly heated
for a short time, and then filtered. This solu-
tion, evaporated, yields beautiful crystals of
cyanide of platinum and potassium ; but it is
unnecessary to crystallize the salt. A very
weak batteiy power is required to deposrt the
metal; the solution should be heated to 100°.
Great care must be taken to obtain a fine
metallic deposit ; indeed, the operator may
not succeed once in twenty times in getting
more than a mere coloring of metal over the
surface, and that not very adhesive. The
causes of the difficulty arc probably these :
the platinum used as an electrode is not acted
upon ; the quantity of salt in solution is very
little; it requires a particular battery strength
to give a good deposit, and the slightest
strength beyond this gives a black deposit;
so that, were the proper relations obtained,
whenever there is any deposit, the relations
of battery and solution are changed, and the
black pulverulent deposit follows.
3761. Electroplating with Palladium.
Palladium is a metal very easily deposited.
The solution is prepared by dissolving the
metal in nitro-muriatic acid, and evaporating
the solution nearly to dryness ; then adding
cyanide of potassium till the whole is dis-
solved; the solution is then filtered and ready
for use. The cyanide of potassium holds a
large quantity of this metal in solution, and
the electrode is acted upon while the deposit
is proceeding. Articles covered with this
metal assume the appearance of the metal ;
but so far as wo are aware, it has not j'et
been applied to any practical purpose. It
requires rather a thick deposit to protect
metals from the action of acids, which is,
probably, the only use it can be applied to.
3762. Electroplating with Nickel.
Nickel is very easily deposited, and may be
prepared for this purpose by dissolving it in
nitric acid, then adding cyanide of potassium
to precipitate the metal ; after which the pre-
ELECTROPLATING WITH VAEIOUS METALS.
351
cipitate is washed and dissolved by the ad-
dition of more cyanide of potassium. Or the
nitrate solution may be precipitated by car-
bonate of potash ; this should be well washed,
and then dissolved in cyanide of potassium; a
proportion of carbonate of potash will be in
the solution, which has not been found to be
detrimental. The metal is very easily depos-
ited ; it yields a color approaching to silver,
which is not liable to tarnish on exposure to
the air. A coating of this metal would be
very useful for covering common work, such
as gasaliers, and other gas-fittings, and even
common plate. The great difficulty experi-
enced is to obtain a positive electrode : the
metal is very difficult to fuse, and so brittle
that we have never been able to obtain either
a plate or a sheet of it. Could this difficulty
be easily overcome, the application of nickel
to the coating of other metals would' be ex-
tensive, and the property of not being liable
to tarnish would make it eminently useful for
all general purposes.
3763. Nagel's Method of Electroplat-
ing with Nickel. A process devised by Mr.
Nagol, of Hamburg, for coating iron, steel,
and other oxidizable metals with an electro
deposit of nickel or cobalt, consists in taking
4 parts, by weight, of pure sulphate of the
protoxide of nickel by crystallization, and 2
parts, by weight, of pure ammonia, so as to
form a double salt, which is then dissolved in
60 parts of distilled water, and 12 parts of am-
moniacal solution of the specific gravity of
, .903 added. The electro deposit is effected
by an ordinary galvanic current, using a
platinum positive pole, 4&e^j»ol»t'~~
-iee*-Faar. The strength of
the galvanic current is regulated according to
the number of objects to be coated.
3764. To Protect Steel from Rusting.
It has been found by experiment that au elec-
tro-deposited coating of nickel protects the
surface of polished steel completely from rust.
Swords, knives, and other articles of steel
liable to exposure, may be coated with nickel
without materially altering the color of the
metal.
3765. To Protect Copper and Brass.
Copper and brass are equally well protected
by nickel (see No. 3764), but, of course, with
change of color on the surface. The nickel
facing, when buruished, has a whiter color
than polished steel, but not as white as silver,
being nearer in appearance to platinum.
3766. Nagel's Method of Electroplat-
ing Metal with Cobalt. For coating with
cobalt, 13d parts, by weight, of pure sulphate
of cobalt, are combined with 69 parts of pure
ammonia, to form a double salt, which is then
dissolved in 1000 parts of distilled water, and
120 parts of amrnouiacal solution, of the same
specific gravity as before, are added. The
process of deposition with cobalt is the same
as with nickel. (See No. 3763.)
3767. To Electroplate with Silicium.
In the following manner, a coating of silicium
can be obtained direct from silica : Take the
following proportions : £ o'once, by measure,
of hydrofluoric acid, £ ounce hydrochloric
acid, and 40 or 50 grains either of precipitated
silica, or of fine white sand (the former dis-
solves most freely), and boil the whole together
for a few minutes, until no more silica is dis-
solved. Use this solution exactly in the same
manner as the clay solution (see No. 3767),
and a fine white deposit of metallic silicium.
will be obtained, provided that the size of the
article is adapted to the quantity of the elec-
tric current. Common red sand, or, indeed,
any kind of silicious stone, finely powdered,
may be used in place of the white sand, and
with equal success, if it be previously boiled
in hydrochloric acid, to remove the red oxido
of iron or other impurities. In depositing
both aluminum and silicium, it is necessary to
well saturate the acid with the solid ingre-
dients by boiling, otherwise very little deposit
of metal will be obtained.
3768. To Prepare a Brass Solution.
For each gallon of water used to make the so-
lution, take 1 pound carbonate of ammonia, 1
pound cyanide of potassium, 2 ounces cyanide
of copper, and 1 ounce cyanide of zinc. This
constitutes the solution for the decomposing
cell. It may bo prepared, also, from the above
proportions of carbonate of ammonia and
cyanide of potassium, by immersing in it a
large sheet of brass of the desired quality,
ana making it the anode or positive electrode
of a powerful galvanic battery or magneto-
electric machine ; and making a small piece of
metal the cathode or negative electrode, from
which hydrogen must be freely evolved. This
operation is continued till . the solution has
taken up a sufficient quantity of the bras", to
produce a regnline deposit.
3769. To Electroplate with Brass.
The solution (see No. 3768) may be used cold ;
but it is desirable, in many cases, to heat it
(according to the nature of the articles to
be deposited upon) to 212° Fahr. For
wrought or fancy work, about 150° Fahr.
will give excellent results. The galvanic bat-
tery, or magneto-electric machine, must be
capable of evolving hydrogen freely from the
cathode or negative electrode, or article at-
tached thereto. It is preferred to have a large
anode or positive electrode, as this favors tho
evolution of hydrogen. The article or articles
treated as before described will immediately
become coated with brass. By continuing
the process, any desired thickness may be ob-
tained. Should the copper have a tendency
to come down in a greater proportion than is
desired, which may be known by the deposit
assuming too red an appearance, it is correct-
ed by the addition of carbonate of ammonia,
or by a reduction of temperature, when the
solution is heated. Should the zinc have a
tendency to come down in too great a propor-
tion, which may be seen by the deposit being
too pale in its appearance, this is corrected by
the addition of cyanide of potassium or by an
increase of temperature.
3770. To Electroplate with German
Silver. The alloy, German silver, is deposit-
ed by means of a solution consisting of car-
bonate of ammonia and cyanide of potassium
(in the proportions given above for the brass),
and cyanides or other compounds of nickel,
copper, and zinc, in the requisite proportions
to constitute German silver. It is, however,
preferred to make the solution by means of
the galvanic battery or magneto-electric
machine, as above described for brass. Should
the copper of the German silver come down
in too great a proportion, this is corrected by
352
BEONZING,
adding carbonate of ammonia, which brings
down the zinc more freely ; and should it be
necessary to bring down the copper in greater
quantity, cyanide of potassium is added —
such treatment being similar to that of the
brass before described.
Bronzing. This is the process
of giving a bronze-like or an antique
metallic appearance to the surface of copper,
brass, and other metals. This is generally
effected by the action of some substance
which combines with and changes the nature
of the surface of the metal. The application
of powdered bronzing substances, made to
adhere by sizing, <tc., to the surface of other
material than metal, such as wood, plaster,
«fec., is termed surface bronzing. (See Nos.
3382, <fc.)
3772. Brown Bronzes for Medals,
&C. Take a wine-glass of water, and add to
it 4 or 5 drops nitric acid ; with this solution
wet the medal (which ought to have been
previously well cleaned from oil or grease)
and then allow it to dry ; when dry impart
to it a gradual and equable heat, by which
the surface will be darkened in proportion to
the heat applied.
3773. Bronzing with. Crocus. Make
a thin paste of crocus and water; lay this
paste on the face of the medal, which must
then be put into an oven, or laid on an iron
plate over a slow fire ; when the paste is per-
fectly reduced to powder, brush it off and lay
on another coating ; at the same time quicken
the fire, taking care that the additional heat
is uniform ; as soon as the second application
of paste is thoroughly dried, brush it off.
The medal being now effectually secured
from grease, which often occasions failures in
bronzing, coat it a third time, but add to the
strength of the fire, and sustain the heat for
a considerable time ; a little experience will
soon finable the operator to decide when the
medal may be withdrawn ; the third coating
being removed, the surface will present a
beautiful brown bronze. If the bronze is
deemed too light the process can be repeated.
3774. Bronzing with Black-Lead.
After the medal has been well cleaned from
wax or grease, by washing it in a little
caustic alkali, brush some black-lead over
the face of it, and then heat it in the same
way as described in ISTo. 3773 for crocus ; or a
thin paste of black-lead may be used, and the
processes already referred to be repeated until
the desired brown tint is obtained. In this
kind of bronze a little hematitic iron ore,
which has an unctuous feel, may be brushed
over the face of the bronze, by which a
beautiful lustre is imparted to it, and a con-
siderable variety in the shade may be ob-
tained. In the brown bronzes the copper is
slightly oxidized on the surface.
3775. Plumbago Bronze. This bronze
is obtained by brushing the surface of the
medal with plumbago, then placing it on a
clear fire till it is made too hot to be touched,
and applying a plate brush so soon as it ceases
to be hot enough to burn the brush. A few
strokes of the brush will produce a dark
brown polish, approaching black, but entirely
distinct from the well known appearance of
black-lead. If the same operation is per-
formed on a medal that has been kept some
days, or upon one that has been polished, a
different, but very brilliant tint is produced.
The color is between red and brown. The
richness of color thus produced is by many
preferred to the true dark brown.
3776. Chinese Bronze. Take 2 ounces
each verdigris and vermilion ; 5 ounces each
alum and sal-ammoniac, all in fine powder,
and sufficient vinegar to make a paste ; then
spread it over the surface of the copper, pre-
viously well cleaned and brightened ; uni-
formly warm the article by the fire, and after-
wards well wash and dry it, when, if the tint
be not deep enough, the process may be re-
peated. The addition of a little sulphate of
copper' inclines the color to a chestnut
brown; and a little borax to a yellowish
brown. Much employed by the Chinese for
copper tea-urns.
3777. Carbonate of Iron Bronze.
Beautiful tints arc produced by using plate-
powder or rouge. After moistening with wa-
ter, it is applied and treated in precisely the
same manner as the plumbago. (See No.
3775.)
3778. Black Bronzes. A very dark
colored bronze may be obtained by using a
little sulphuretted alkali (sulphuret of am-
monia is best). The face of the medal is
washed over with the solution, which should
be dilute, and the medal dried at a gentle
heat, and afterwards polished wh-h ft hard
hair brush. Sulphuretted hydrogen gas is
sometimes employed to give this black bronze,
but the effect of it is not so good, and the gas
is very deleterious when breathed. In these
bronzes the surface of the copper is converted
into a sulphuret.
3779. German Method of Bronzing
Brass Black. There are two methods of
procuring a black lacquer upon the surface of
brass. The one which is that usually em-
ployed for optical and scientific instruments,
consists in first polishing the object with
Tripoli, then washing it with a mixture com-
posed of 1 part nitrate of tin and 2 parts
chloride of gold, and, after allowing this wash
to remain on for about 12 or 15 minutes,
wiping it off with a linen cloth. An excess
of acid increases the intensity of the tint. In
the other method, copper turnings are dis-
solved iu nitric acid until the acid is satura-
ted ; the objects are immersed in the solution,
cleaned, and subsequently Seated moderately
over a charcoal fire. This process must be
repeated in order to produce a black color, as
the first trial only gives a deep green ; when
the desired color is attained, the finishing
touch is given by polishing with olive oil.
3780. Black Bronzes. Many metallic
solutions, such as weak acid solutions of
platinum, gold, palladium, antimony, etc.,
will impart a dark color to the surface of
medals when they are dipped into them. The
medal, after being dipped into the metallic so-
lution, is to be well washed and brushed. In
such bronzes the metals contained in the so-
lution are precipitated upon the face of the
copper medal, which effect is accompanied
by a partial solution of the copper.
BRONZING.
353
3781. Green Bronzes for Figures
and Busts. Green bronzes require a little
more time than those already described.
They depend upon the formation of an
acetate, carbonate, or other green salt of cop-
per upon the surface of the medal. Steeping
for some days in a strong solution of common
salt will give a partial bronzing which is very
beautiful, and, if washed in water and allowed
to dry slowly, is very permanent. Sal am-
moniac may 'bo substituted for common salt.
Even a strong solution of sugar, alone, or
with a little acetic or oxalic acid, will produce
a green bronze ; so also will exposure to the
fumes of dilute acetic acid, to weak fumes
of hydrochloric acid, and to several other
vapors. A dilute solution of ammonia al-
lowed to dry upon the copper surface will
leave a green tint, but not very permanent.
3782. Bronzing with Bleaching
Powder. Electrotypes may be bronzed
green, having the appearance of ancient
bronze, by a very simple process. Take a
small portion of bleaching powder (chloride of
lime), place it in the bottom of a dry vessel,
and suspend the medal over it, and cover the
vessel ; in a short time the medal will acquire
a green coating, the depth of which may be
regulated by the quantity of bleaching pow-
der used, or the time that the medal is
suspended in its fumes ; of course, any sort of
vessel, or any means by which the electro-
type may be exposed to the furnes of the
powder, will answer the purpose; a few
grains of the powder is all that is required.
According as the medal is clean or tarnished,
dry or wet, when suspended, different tints,
with different degrees of adhesion, will be ob-
tained.
3783. Fine Green Bronze. Dissolve
2 ounces verdigris and 1 ounce sal-ammoniac
in 1 pint vinegar, and dilute the mixture
with water until it tastes but slightly metallic,
when it must 'bo boiled for a few minutes,
and filtered for use. Copper medals, &c., pre-
viously thoroughly cleaned from grease and
dirt, are to bo steeped in the liquor at the
boiling point, until the desired effect is pro-
duced. Care must bo taken not to keep them
in the solution too long. "When taken out,
they should be carefully washed in hot water,
and well dried. Gives an antique appearance.
3784. To Bronze Brass Orange,
Greenish Grey and Violet Tint. An
orange tint, inclining to gold, is produced by
first polishing the brass, and then plunging it
for a few seconds into a neutral solution of
crystallized acetate of copper, care being
taken that the solution is completely destitute
of all free acid, and possesses a warm temper-
ature. Dipped into a bath of copper, the
resulting tint is a greyish green, while a beau-
tiful violet is obtained by immersing it for a
single instant in a solution of chloride of an-
timony, and rubbing it with a stick covered
with cotton. The temperature of the brass
at the time the operation is ia progress has a
great influence upon tho beauty and delicacy
of the tint ; in the last instance it should be
heated to a degree so as just to bo tolerable to
the touch.
3785. Moire Bronze. A moire appear-
ance, vastly superior to that usually seen, is
produced by boiling tho object in a solution
of sulphate of copper. According to the pro-
portions observed between the zinc and tho
copper in the composition of the brass article,
so will the tints obtained vary. In many in-
stances it requires the employment of a slight
degree of friction with a resinous or waxy
varnish, to bring out the wavy appearance
characteristic of moire, which is also singular-
ly enhanced by dropping a few iron nails into
the bath.
3786. French Bronze. An eminent
Parisian sculptor makes use of a mixture of
£ ounce sal-ammoniac, k ounce common salt,
1 ounce spirits of hartshorn, and 1 imperial
quart of vinegar. A good result will also be
obtained by substituting an additional & ounce
sal-ammoniac, instead of the spirits of harts-
horn. The piece of metal, being well cleaned,
is to be rubbed with one of these solutions,
and then dried by friction with a clean brush.
If tho hue be found too pale at the end of 2
or 3 days, the operation may be repeated. It
is found to be more advantageous to operate
in the sunshine than in the shade.
3787. To Bronze Copper with Sul-
phur. When objects made of copper are
immersed in melted sulphur mixed with lamp-
black, the objects so treated obtain the ap-
pearance of bronze, and can be polished with-
out losing that aspect.
3788. Antique Bronze. Dissolve 1
ounce sal-ammoniac, 3 ounces cream of tar-
tar, and 6 ounces common salt, in 1 pint hot
water ; then add 2 ounces nitrate of copper,
dissolved in i pint water; mix well, and apply
it repeatedly to the article, placed in a damp
situation, by means of a b'rush moistened
therewith. This produces a very antique
effect.
3789. Antique Bronze. Hub the medal
with a solution of sulphuret of potassium,
then dry. This produces the appearance of
antique bronze very exactly.
3790. Bronzing Liquids for Tin Cast-
ings. Wash them over, after being well
cleaned and wiped, with a solution of 1 part
sulphate of iron, and 1 part sulphate of cop-
per, in 20 parts water ; afterwards with a so-
lution of 4 parts verdigris in 11 of distilled
yinegar ; leave for an hour to dry, and then
polish with a soft brush and crocus.
3791. To Bronze Iron Castings.
Iron castings may be bronzed by thorough
cleaning (see No. 3G41) and subsequent im-
mersion in a solution of sulphate of copper,
when they acquire a coat of the latter metal.
They must be then washed in water.
3792. Surface Bronzing. This term is
applied to tho process of imparting to tho
surfaces of figures of wood, plaster of Paris,
<fec., a metallic appearance. This is done by
first giving them a coat of oil or sizo varnish,
and when this is nearly dry, applying with a
dabbcr of cotton or a camel-hair pencil, any
of tho metallic bronze powders ; or the pow-
der may bo placed in a little bag of muslin,
and dusted over the surface, and afterwards
finished off with a wad of linen. Tho surface
must be afterwards varnished.
3793. To Bronze Paper. Paper is
bronzed by mixing the powders up with a
little gum and water,' and afterwards burnish-
ing. The paper used should contain sufficient
sizing not to absorb the gum.
354: BRONZING.
3794. Beautiful Bed Bronze Powder.
Mix together sulphate of copper, 100 parts ;
carbonate of soda, 60 parts ; apply heat until
they unite into a mass, then cool, powder, and
add copper filings, 15 parts; well mix, and
keep them at a white heat for 20 minutes,
then cool, powder, wash thoroughly with
water, and dry.
3795. Gold Colored Bronze Powder.
Yerdigris, 8 ounces ; .tutty powder, 4 ounces ;
borax and nitre, each 2 ounces ; bichloride of
mercury, J ounce; make them into a paste
with oil, and fuse them together. Used in
japanning as a gold color. Or : Grind Dutch
foil or pure gold leaf to an impalpable powder.
(See Nos. 2491 and 2517.)
3796. Silver White Bronze Powder.
Melt together 1 ounce each bismuth and tin,
then add 1 ounce running quicksilver; cool
and powder.
3797. Graham's Quick Bronzing Li-
quids. The following 19 receipts are prepara-
tions for bronzing brass, copper, and zinc, by
simple immersion. Their action is imme-
diate.
3798. Black or Brown Bronzing for
Brass, Copper, or Zinc. Dissolvo 5
drachms nitrate of iron in 1 pint water. Or : 5
drachms perchloride of iron in 1 pint water.
A black may also be obtained from 10 ounces
muriate of arsenic in 2 pints permuriate of
iron, and 1 pint water.
3799. Brown or Red Bronzing for
Brass. "Dissolve 16 drachms nitrate of iron,
and 16 drachms hyposulphite of soda, in 1 pint
water. Or : 1 drachm nitric acid may be sub-
stituted for the nitrate of iron.
3800. Bed-Brown Bronzing for Brass.
Dissolve 1 ounce nitrate of copper, and 1
ounce oxalic acid, in 1 pint water, brought
to the boil, and then cooled. Or: 1 pint
solution of ferrocyanide .of potassium and 3
drachms nitric acid. This latter is slow in
action, taking an hour to produce good re-
sults.
3801. Dark Brown Bronzing for
Brass. Mix 1 ounce cyanide of potassium,
and 4 drachms nitric acid, with 1 pint water.
3802. Bed Bronzing for Brass. Mix
30 grains tersulphite of arsenic, 6 drachms so-
lution of pearl ash, and 1 pint water.
3803. Orange Bronzing for Brass.
Mix 1 drachm potash solution of sulphur with
1 pint water.
3804. Olive Green Bronzing for
Brass. Dissolvo 1 pint permuriate of iron, in
2 pints water.
3805. Slate-Colored Bronzing for
Brass. Dissolve 2 drachms sulphocyanide
of potassium, and 5 drachms perchloride of
iron, in 1 pint water.
3806. Blue Bronzing for Brass. Mix
20 drachms hyposulphite of soda with 1 pint
water.
3807. Steel-Grey Bronzing for Brass,
or Copper. Mix 1 ounce muriate of arsenic
with 1 pint water, and use at a heat not less
than 180° Fahr.
3808. Dark Drab Bronzing for Cop-
per. This is prepared by adding 2 drachms
sulphocyanide of potassium to the mixture
given in No. 3807. Or : mix 1 ounce sulphate
of copper, 1 ounce hyposulphite of soda, 2
drachms hydrochloric acid, and 1 pint water.
3809. Bright Bed Bronzing for Cop-
per. Mix 2 drachms sulphide of antimony,
and 1 ounce pearlash, in 1 pint water.
3810. Dark Bed Bronzing for Cop-
per. Dissolve 1 drachm sulphur, and 1 ounce
pearlash, in 1 pint water.
3811. Dark Grey Bronzing for Zinc.
Mix 1 drachm protochloride of tin, and 1
drachm sulphocyanide of potassium, with 1
pint water. Or : Dissolve 1 drachm each sul-
phate of copper and muriate of iron, in 2 pints
water. A similar effect may be obtained by
mixing muriate of lead with water to the con-
sistency of cream.
3812. Green-Grey Bronzing for Zinc.
Dissolve i drachm muriate of iron in 1 pint
water.
3813. Bed Bronzing for Zinc. Use
garancine (madder-red) infusion boiling hot.
3814. Copper-Colored Bronzing for
Zinc. Agitate the articles in a solution of 8
drachms sulphate of copper, and 8 drachms
hyposulphite of soda, in 1 pint water.
3815. Copper-Colored Bronzing for
Zinc Plates. Make a solution of 4 drachms
sulphate of copper, and 4 drachms pearlash, in
pint water. Immerse the zinc plate in it,
connected at one end with a plate of copper,
as represented in Fig. I, No. 3665. This, it
will be seen, induces a galvanic current, and
is electroplating on a small scale.
3816. Purple Bronzing for Zinc. Im-
merse in a boiling infusion of logwood.
3817. Larkin's Bronzing Fluids for
Alloys of a Silvery-Grey Color. Mr.
Larkin states that, for the purpose of render-
ing alloys which are of a silvery-grey color,
perfectly suitable as substitutes for copper,
bronze, brass, and other metals, the color
proper to tho metals which they are intended
to substitute is imparted to them by means
of any solution of copper. The hydro-
chlorate of copper is found to answer best,
and is employed as directed in'the five follow-
ing receipts.
3818. Directions for Using Larkin's
Bronzing Fluids. In cither of these meth-
ods of coloring, a solution of sal-ammoniac
may be substituted for the liquid ammonia.
The quantities of each ingredient have not
been stated, as these depend upon the nature
of the alloy, the shade or hue desired, and the
durability required. The bluish-bronze color
may be superaddcd to the red or copper color,
whereby a beautiful light color is produced on
the prominent parts of the article bronzed, or on
the parts from which the blackish-bronze color
may have been nibbed off. These new alloys
may be used as substitutes for various metals
now in general use, such as iron, lead, tin, or
copper, in pipes and tubes; and bronze, brass,
and copper, in machinery and manufactories,
as well as for most of tho other purposes for
which more expensive metals are employed.
3819. Blackish Bronze Coloring.
For giving silvery-grey alloys a blackish-
bronze color, they are treated with a solution
of hydrochlorate of copper diluted with a con-
siderable quantity of water, and a small quan-
tity of nitric acid may be added.
3820. Lead or Copper Coloring. To
impart a lead or copper color, add to the so-
lution of hydrochlorate of copper, liquid am-
monia and a little acetic acid. The salt
CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS.
355
of copper may be dissolved in the liquid am-
monia.
3821. Antique Bronze Coloring. To
impart a brass or antique bronze color, either
of the three following means may be adopt-
ed : — A solution of copper, with some acetic
acid. Or : — The means before described for
copper color, with a largo proportion of liquid
ammonia. Or : — "Water acidulated with nitric
acid, by which beautiful bluish shades may
be produced. It must be observed, however,
this last process can only be properly employ-
ed on the alloys which contain a portion of
copper.
3822.
Drab Bronze for Brass. Brass
obtains a very beautiful drab bronze by being
worked in moulders' damp sand for a short
time and brushed up.
3823. To Make
Plaster Casts, &c.
Bronze Powder for
To a solution of soda-
soap in linseed oil, cleared by straining, add
a mixture of 4 pints sulphate of copper solu-
tion, and 1 pint sulphate of iron solution,
which precipitates a metallic soap of a pecu-
liar bronza hue; wash with cold water, strain,
and dry to powder.
3824. To Bronze Plaster Casts, &c.
The powdered soap of the last receipt is thus
applied : Boil 3 pounds pure linseed oil with
12 ounces finely powdered litharge; strain
through a coarse canvas cloth, and allow to
stand until clear ; 15 ounces of this soap var-
nish, mixed with 12 ounces metallic soap
powder (see last receipt], and 5 ounces fine
white wax, are to be melted together at a
gentle heat in a porcelain basin, by means of
a water-bath, and allowed to remain for a
time in a melted state to expel any moisture
that it may contain ; it is then applied with a
brush to the surface of the plaster previously
heated to 200° Pahr., being careful to lay it
on smoothly, and without filling up any small
indentations of the plaster design. Place it
for a few days in a cool place; and, as soon
as the smell of the soap varnish has gone off,
rub the surface over with cotton wool, or fine
linen rag, and variegated with a few streaks
of metal powder or shell gold. Small ob-
jects may be dipped in the melted mixture,
and exposed to the heat of a fire till thor-
oughly penetrated and evenly coated with it.
3825. To Make Bronzing for Wood.
Grind separately to a fine powder, Prussian
blue, chrome yellow, raw umber, lampblack,
and clay, and mix in such proportions as will
produce a desired dark green hue ; then mix
with moderately strong glue size.
3826. To Bronze Wood. First coat
the clean wood with a mixture of size and
lampblack ; then apply two coats of the green
colored sizing in the last receipt; and lastly
with bronza powcLer, such as powdered Dutch
foil, mosaic gold, &c., laid on with a brush.
Finish with a thin solution of Castile soap ;
and, when dry, rub with a soft woolen cloth.
3827. To Bronze Porcelain, Stone-
ware, and Composition Picture Frames.
A bronzing process, applicable to porcelain,
stoneware, and composition picture and look-
ing-glass frames is performed as follows : The
articles are first done over with a thin solution
of water-glass (see No. 2816) by the aid of a
soft brush. Bronze powder is then dusted on,
by a few gentle taps. The article is next
heated, to dry the silicate, and the bronze be-
comes firmly attached. Probably, in the caso
of porcelain, biscuit, or stoneware, some
chemical union of the silicate will take piace,
but in other cases the water-glass will only
tend to make the bronze powder adhere
to the surface. After the heating, the bronze
may be polished or burnished with agate
Browning for Gun Barrels.
: : Mix equal parts of butter of antimony
sweet oil, and apply the mixture to the
tools.
3828.
Mix 1 ounce each aqua-fortis and sweet spirits
of nitre; 4 ounces powdered blue vitriol; 2
ounces tincture of iron, and water, 1£ pints;
agitate until dissolved.
Or: Blue vitriol and sweet spirits of nitre,
of each 1 ounce; water, 1 pint; dissolve as
last.
Or
and
iron previously warmed.
3829. To Brown Gun Barrels. The
gun barrel to be browned must be first pol-
ished and then rubbed with whiting to remove
all oily matter. Its two ends should be stop-
ped with wooden rods, which serve as handles,
and the touch-hole filled with wax. Then rub
on the solution (see last receipt) with a linen
rag or sponge till the whole surface is equally
moistened. Let it remain till the next day,
then rub it off with a stiff brush. The liquid
may be again applied until a proper color is
produced. When this is the case, wash in
pearlash water, and afterwards in clean water,
and then polish, either with the burnisher or
with bees' wax ; or apply a coat of shellac
varnish. (See No. 2954.)
Manipulations.
Some of the "operations employed in
the preparation and use of chemicals have al-
ready been given at the commencement of this
book (see No. 1); but, as the work progressed,
it was deemed advisable, for the pake of
greater precision, to add further directions for
special manipulations, and descriptions of in-
dispensable apparatus.
3831. Separating Funnels. These are
glass funnels furnished with a stop-cock, and
are used for separating mixed fluids of differ-
ent densities. The mixed liquid is poured in-
Fig.l.
Fig. 2.
to the funnel, and, after sufficient time haa
been allowed for the heavier liquid to settle,
it can be drawn off by opening the stop-cock,
and any excess not adherent is knocked off! closing it immediately after the heavy liquid
356
CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS.
has passed. Fig. 1 represents a separating
funnel, such as is used for ordinary purposes ;
but for separating a mixed liquid containing
ether or other volatile fluid, a funnel, closed
•with a stopper similar in construction to Fig.
2, is employed to prevent evaporation while
the heavier liquid is settling. For very small
quantities a pipette (see No. 3832) is the best
instrument.
3832. Pipettes. These are glass instru-
ments used for measuring liquids in drops,
and so constructed that the flow of the liquid
from them is under the complete control of
the operator. They may be made in
any form which may be suggested to
adapt them to special purposes; but
pipettes for general use are usually
constructed as follows : Fig. 1 is an
ordinary pipette, and consists of a small
cylinder of glass with an upper and
lower tube, the lower end terminating
in a fine orifice for the discharge of
the fluid, and the upper end adapted
for the finger or thumb, by which the
outward flow can be instantly arrested.
This is filled by the suction of the
mouth. Fig. 2 is made on the same
principle, having a fine orifice (6), and
a thumb-hole (a), but fitted with a
mouth and stopper on the upper side,
for convenience of filling, or insert- j^g j
ing a measured quantity of liquid. The
lower side being flat, to allow of the instru-
ment being laid down without risk of waste
of contents.
Fig. 2.
A pipette affords also a ready means of
separating two liquids, too small in quanti-
ty to allow of separation by decantation or
other methods usually employed. To this
end, the upper or lower stratum of the mixed
liquids (oil and water, for instance), may be
drawn by the mouth into the pipette ; or the
whole may be sucked into the pipette, and
the lower stratum allowed to flow out.
Graduated pipettes of various forms, espe-
cially useful in acidimetry, <fcc., will bo found
described in No. 82. These instruments are
also useful, and in many cases indispensable,
in conducting delicate tests.
3833. Goniometer. An instrument
used for measuring the angles of cr3Tstals.
The only accurate and simple instrument of
this kind is the reflective goniometer invented
by Dr. Wollaston.
, 3834. To Filter Vegetable Juices.
These should be allowed to deposit their lecu-
Ipus matter before filtration. The supernatant
liquid will often be found quite clear ; when
this is not the case, filtration will be necessary
through coarse filtering paper. (See No. 17.)
Some vegetable juices can bo made clear
Bimply by heating them to 180° to 200° Fahr.,
by which their albumen becomes coagulated.
Others admit of clarification in the same
manner as syrups. (See No. 1357.) Many of
these, again, such as hemlock, henbane, aco-
nite, <fcc., are greatly injured by heat, and
must be filtered or decanted after repose.
3835. To Filter Vegetable Infusions.
In many instances vegetable infusions and
decoctions may be clarified by defecation and
decautatiou of the clear liquid. A convenient
method of straining, when that is necessary,
is by securing the corners of a square piece of
flannel to a frame, which can be laid over the
mouth of a pan ; or by laying the flannel
across the mouth of a coarse hair-sieve. Con-
centrated infusions and decoctions, being
usually weak tinctures, may be filtered as
tinctures. (See No. 17.) Yiscid vegetable
solutions may be clarified (see No. 1357); or
may be made to filter rapidly by the addition
of acetic, sulphuric, or other strong acid.
3836. To Filter Corrosive Liquids.
Strong acids, <fec., are filtered through pow-
dered glass or siliceous sand, supported on
pebbles in the throat of a glass funnel, or
through asbestos placed in the .same manner.
3837. To Filter Precipitates. When
filtration is employed to separate precipitated
matter from the solution in which it is sus-
pended, the filtering medium should be such
that the powder may be easily reclaimed from
it with as little loss as possible. Linen or
smooth bibulous paper are the best for this
purpose. A camel-hair pencil should be used,
if needed, in preference to a knife, to remove
adhering powder from a filter, and the pre-
cipitate should be first washed down the
sides of the filter by a small stream of water,
so as to collect the most of it to one spot at
the bottom.
The first runnings in filtration should al-
ways be returned to the filter.
3838. Bunsen's Method of Rapid
Filtration. A great deal of time is frequent-
ly lost in washing precipitates, by having to
wait for the liquid to pass through a filter.
Bunseu's improvement consists in fixing the
filtering funnel air-tight, by means of a per-
forated cork in the neck of a bottle which
has an opening connected with the receiver
of an air-pump. By exhausting the air in the
bottle, the liquid will run faster through the
filter in propertion to the diminution of the
pressure in the bottle. Comparative experi-
ments, some made according to the old, and
others according to the new method, showing
that the filtration, washing, and drying of a
precipitate, which took 7 hours by the old
plan, could be performed, by filtration into
an exhausted bottle, in 13 minutes.
3839. Filtering Powders. In many
cases a liquid will not readily become trans-
parent by simply passing through the filter ;
hence has arisen the use of filtering powders,
substances which rapidly choke up the pores
of the media in a sufficient degree to make
the fluid pass clear. These powders should
not be in too fine a state of division, nor used
in largo quantities, as they then wholly choke
up the filter, and absorb a largo quantity of
the liquid. For some liquids these sub-
stances are employed for the purpose of
decoloring or whitening them. In such cases,
it is preferable first to pass the fluid through
a layer of the substance in coarse powder,
from which it will run but slightly contami-
nated into the filters : or, if the substance be
mixed with the whole body of the liquid, to
CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS.
357
pass it through some coarser medium, to re-
move the cruder portion, before allowing it to
run into the filter. Fuller's earth, pipe clay,
or potter's clay, washed, dried without heat,
and reduced to coarse powder, aro used to
filter and bleach oils.
Fullers earth or clay, 1 part, and 2 parts
fine silicious sand, first separately washed and
drained, then mixed together and dried, con-
stitutes a filtering powder well adapted for
glutinous oils.
Granulated animal charcoal, sifted and
fanned free from dust, is used to filter and
bleach syrups and vegetable solutions.
Carbonate of magnesia and powdered glass,
or pumice stone, aro used for filtering weak
alcoholic solutions of essential oils, and in the
preparation of perfumed waters. (See Nos.
976, 1029, 10SO, and 1081.)
3840. Self-Feeding Filter. It is usu-
ally a matter of more or less importance in
filtration, that the filter should be kept full.
To effect this requires unremitting attention,
which, when the filtration occupies a consid-
erable time, is at least tedious. By the use
of a simple apparatus, this is avoided, and
filtration will continue, without any personal
attention, until tho operation i;; complete. A
bottle or jar, of sufficient capacity to contain
the liquid to bo filtered, ia placed in a conve-
nient position, above tho level of tho filter
(see illustration); through the cork, which
must fit air-tirjht, aro inserted two bent tubes ;
one end of tho tube & niuct reach nearly to
the bottom of tho jar, the other end descend-
ing deep into tho filter; tho tube a terminates
at one end ju<;t below tho cork of tho jar, the
outer cud being adjusted in tho filter at the
height which it i.3 desired that tho liquid shall
be kept at in tho filter. Tho apparatus is set
in working order by racking tho liquid into
the tube 6, so as to £".1 it. Tho liquid will
continue to flow until it.3 surface in tho filter
rises sufficiently to reach to and close tho end
of the tube a, cutting off' tho ingress of air
into the bottle, and thus stopping the farther
flow, until, by tho falling of tho filtrate into
the vessel placed to receive it, tho liquid in
the filter again sinks below the tube a, and
allows the flow to be resumed until again,
stopped as before. (See No. 17, Fig. G.)
3841. Chemical Washing. When pre-
cipitation takes place, the deposit requires to
undergo edulcoration, or cleansing from tho
liquid from which it was precipitated. "With
heavy and bulky precipitates, this is dono by
repeated washing, and, after the deposit has
again settled, dccautation of tho supernatant
liquid (see No. 3847); but when the powder
is light, and separates with less facility from
tho liquid, tho washing is better performed by
a continuous stream of water passing through
a filter on which tho precipitate has been pre-
viously collected. The apparatus employed
for a self-feeding filter (see No. 3840) is ad-
mirably adapted for this purpose. Lixiviation,
or the separation of soluble matter from an
insoluble powder, can bo performed in the
same way. (See Nos. 14, 23, and 32.)
3842. Chemical Drying. In order to
deprive chemical substances of water or moist-
ure, tho simplest means is evaporation. This
may be performed either by merely exposure
in open shallow vessels to the natural action of
a dry atmosphere, called spontaneous evapora-
tion; or by tho application of heat, either di-
rectly or by a water-bath, &c. (see No. 1£) ;
this is not always advisable or necessary, as
some substances undergo change by heat, and
must be dried by other means. By enclosing
the substance to bo dried in a box or drying-
chamber in which is placed an open vessel
containing strong sulphuric acid or chlorido
of calcium, the strong affinity for water that
these substances possess* keeps tho air per-
fectly dry, and absorbs the moisture from it as
fast as the water evaporates from tho material
which is being dried. The water of crystal-
line bodies is usually driven out by exposing
the crystals in a capsule or evaporating dish
to heat, only just sufficient being applied to
effect the purpose. Some crystals part with
their water of crystallization spontaneously
by exposure to tho air, crumbling into pow-
der; such crystals aro called efflorescent, to
distinguish them from those deliquescent crys-
talline bodies which spontaneously liquefy or
dissolve in their own water of crystallization.
Others will yield their water in an artificially
dried atmosphere, as above stated; while
many have sufficient affinity for water to re-
tain it until driven off by heat, more or less
intense. Crystalline substances which have
been deprived of tho water of crystallization,
that is, have undergone desiccation, aro said
to bo dry.
3843. Decarbonization. This operation
is performed on cast iron, to convert it into
steel or soft iron. Tho articles to bo decar-
bonized aro packed in finely-powdered hema-
tite, or native oxide of iron, to which iron
filings aro often added, and exposed for some
time to a strong red heat, by which the excess
of carbon is abstracted or burnt out. Tho
process somewhat resembles annealing or
cementation.
3844. Decoloration. Tho blanching or
loss of tho natural color of any substance.
Syrups, and many animal, vegetable, and
saline solutions, are decolored or whitened by
agitation with animal charcoal, and subse-
quent subsidence or filtration. Many fluids
ACIDS.
rapidly lose their natural color by exposure
to light, especially the direct rays of the sun.
In this way, castor, nut, poppy, and several
other oils are whitened. Fish oils are par-
tially deodorized and decolored by filtration
through animal charcoal. (See No. 3839.)
By the joint action of light, air, and moisture,
cottons and linens are commonly bleached.
The peculiar way in which light produces
this effect has never been satisfactorily ex-
plained. The decoloration of textile fabrics
and solid bodies, generally, is called bleach-
ing.
3845. Defecation. In chemistry, the
separation of a liquid from its Ices, dregs, or
impurities. This is usually performed by
subsidence and decantation, and is commonly
applied to the purification of saline solutions,
on the large scale, in preference to filtration,
than which it is both more expeditious and
inexpensive.
3846. Neutralization. The admixture
of an alkali or base with an acid in such pro-
portions that neither shall predominate. A
neutral compound neither turns turmeric pa-
per brown, nor litmus paper red. The 'term
saturation is also applied to complete neutral-
ization (see No. 27) ; but saturation has two
distinct meanings; chemically, it denotes that
a given alkali has been neutralized completely
by an acid, or vice versa. Pharmaceutically,
it implies that a given solvent is charged to
its utmost capacity with an active ingredient;
this point is, however, so difficult to determine,
that the term is scarcely ever applied accu-
rately.
3847. Edulcoration. The affusion of
water on any substance for the purpose of
removing the portion soluble in that fluid.
Edulcoration is usually performed by agitating
or triturating the article with water, and re-
moving the latter after subsidence, by decan-
tation or filtration. It is the method com-
monly adopted to purify precipitates and other
powders which are insoluble m water.
3848. Rectification. A second distilla-
tion of a fluid, for the purpose of rendering it
purer. In rectifying alcohol containing wa-
ter, the distillation is conducted at a tempera-
ture high enough to evaporate the alcohol and
cause it to distill over into the receiver, but
not high enough to boil the water, the greater
part of which, therefore, remains behind in
the body of the still. It is difficult to obtain
an anhydrous product without employing
some agent having a strong affinity for water.
3849. Calcination. The separation or
expulsion, by heat, of volatile from fixed
matter. By this means crystalline salts arc
obtained in a dry or anhydrous form, by de-
priving them of their water of crystallization ;
in this particular, the process is similar to
desiccation. (See No. 12.) Calcination is
also employed for tho ignition of silica, &c.,
in order to render it more easily reducible to
fragments or powder.
The operation of calcining is conducted on
tho small scale in platinum spoons or cruci-
bles, and heat applied by tho flame of a spirit
lamp, or other appropriate means. 'When
large quantities of matter are calcined, metal
or earthenware crucibles and tho heat of a
furnace are employed. Charcoal is thus ob-
tained from wood, bone-black from bones, <fec.
3850. Ignition. The heating of a sub-
stance to redness. It is especially resorted
to for the calcination of a substance at a
high degree of heat. (See No. 3849.)
3851. To Bend Glass Tubes. Small
glass tubes may be bent over the flame of a
spirit lamp ; for larger tubes, the heat of a
blow-pipe flame is necessary. The tube
should be heated to a dull red about an inch
either way beyond the point of curvature, by
revolving it in the flamo; as soon, as the glass
begins to yield, bend tho tube very gradually
until curved as desired. Stopping' one end of
tho tube, and blowing into the other while
bending it, will prevent wrinkling or collaps-
ing at the point of curvature. It requires
some tact to bend a tube, with an even curve
and without collapsing its sides; and it is
recommended by an experienced chemist to
use a Bunsen burner, having the extremity
flattened out so as to give a short and thin,
but broad flame, something like the flame of
an ordinary gas burner. Tho tube is placed
in this flame and turned around until a good
heat is given to the tube; it is then withdrawn
from the flame and bent, when it does so with
a perfect curve and no collapse on the sides of
the tube. Of course this is only intended for
the smaller tubes, but a tube of one-third of
an inch and more can be thus bent very
readily.
3852. To Find the Dry Weight of a
Pulp or Moist Precipitate. Pulps or pre-
cipitates, such as the metallic colors, chrome
yellow, white lead, <fcc., are of different con-
sistence at the top from what they are at or
near the bottom of the vessel in which they
are contained ; and the actual weight of the
precipitate in the dry state can therefore not
be arrived at by merely taking a sample from
top or bottom, but, in most cases, only guessed
at. "When, however, the specific gravity of
such a precipitate in its dry state is known, as
well as that of the surrounding liquid, the
operation of obtaining the accurate dry
weight of the same while in pulp can be re-
duced to the simple manipulation of weighing
it in a vessel. Find the weight of a vessel
full of the pulp ; then weigh the same vessel
full of tho same liquid that tho pulp is moist-
ened with, aud note down the difference be-
tween the weights. Next divide this differ-
ence of weight by the difference between the
specific gravities of the pulp and the liquid ;
lastly add this quotient to the difference of
weight already noted down, and the sum will
be the dry weight of tho pulp.
An acid in chemistry is any
electro-negative compound, capable of
combining in definite proportions with bases
to form salts. Most of the liquid acids pos-
sess a sour taste, and redden litmus paper.
Tho acids have been variously classed by dif-
ferent writers, as into organic and inorganic ;
metallic and non-metallic; oxygen acids, hy-
drogen acids, and acids destitute of cither of
these elements; the names being applied ac-
cording to tho kingdom of nature, or class of
bodies to which the radical belonged, or after
tho clement which was presumed to be the
A CTDS.
359
acidifying principle. Acids are in various j
forms ; some are gaseous, as carbonic acid ; !
some are liquid, as nitric and acetic acid;
others are solid, as citric and oxalic acid ;
others again under peculiar conditions assume
more than one of these forms. Acids, which
are soluble or liquid, are corrosive, and more
or less poisonous when concentrated. They
change vegetable blues to red and neutralize
the effects of alkalies on vegetable blues and
yellows. Most of the acids are soluble in
water in all proportions ; they neutralize the
alkalies, effervesce with the carbonates, and
combine with the bases generally, forming
compounds called salts. The methods for es-
timating the strength or neutralizing power
of acids, as well as the strength of their so-
lutions, will be found under ACIDIMETRY, No.
78. The names of the acids end either in
-icor -ous; the former being given to that con-
taining the larger portion of the electro-nega-
tive element, or oxygen, and the latter to
that containing the smaller quantity. ' As
sulphuric acid, an acid of sulphur, containing
3 atoms of oxygen; sulphurous acid, another
sulphur acid, containing only 2 atoms of oxy-
gen. "When a base forms more than 2 acid
compounds with oxygen, the Greek preposi-
tion hypo is added to that containing the
smaller portion, as hyposulphuric and hypo-
sulphurous acids. The prepositions per, hyper,
and the syllable ox;/ are also prefixed to the
names of acids when it is intended to denote
an increase of oxygen, as hypernitrous acid,
perchloric acid, oxymuriatic acid, <fec. The
prefix hydro to the name of an acid denotes
that the acid combination is with hydrogen,
and not with oxygen. All tho strong liquid
acids should be kept in glass bottles, furnished
with perfectly tight ground-glass stoppers;
glass vessels should be used in measuring
them, and they should be dispensed in stop-
pered vials. Fluoric acid must be kept in a
bottle made of lead, silver, platinum, or pure
gutta-percha, as it acts readily on glass. In
the combination of acids with bases to form
salts, distinctive terminations are employed to
denote the kind of acid present. The name
of a salt of an acid ending in -ic, terminates in
-ate ; thus, sulphate of soda, formed from sul-
phuric acid and soda. The name of a salt of
an acid ending in -oit-s, terminates in -ite ; as
sulphite of lime, formed from sulphurous acid
and lime. The names of compounds formed
by the union of non-metallic elements, and
certain other bodies, with the metals or with
each other, terminate in -ide or -urct ; thus,
sulphide or sulphuret of silver, formed of sil-
ver aud sulphur. (Cooley.) In accordance
with the scope of this work it has been found
advisable to omit a number of acids, both
simple aud compound, of limited practical
use ; the selection being confined to acids of
more general utility and adaptation to practi-
cal purposes.
3854. Sulphuric Acid. This is a color-
less, odorless acid, and highly corrosive
liquid, formed by the union of 1 equivalent of
sulphur and 3 of oxygen. It is immediately
colored by contact with organic matter. It
attracts water so rapidly from the atmosphere,
when freely exposed to it, as to absorb j
its weight in 24 hours; and, under continued
exposure, will absorb 6 times its weight.
When 4 parts water arc suddenly mixed with
1 part sulphuric acid, the temperature of the
mixture rises to about 300° Fahr. Whilst 4
parts pounded ice mixed with 1 part acid,
sinks the thermometer to some degrees below-
zero. Sulphuric acid boils and distills over at
620° Fahr., and freezes at about 20° below
zero. The salts formed by the union* of
sulphuric acid with a base are called SUL-
PHATES.
3855. To Obtain Commercial Sul-
phuric Acid. This is commonly called oil
of vitriol, aud has a specific gravity not less
than 1.840, nor more than 1.845. It was first
obtained by the distillation of green vitriol
(sulphate of iron), but it is now made by bring-
ing tho fumes of sulphurous acid (see No.
3865) into contact with those evolved from a
mixture of nitre and oil of vitriol, so that the
former becomes oxidized at the expense of the
latter. This process is conducted in a series
of leaden chambers, having a little water on
the floor, to absorb the acid, and so arranged
as to prevent the loss of gas. As soon as the
water is found to have acquired a specific
gravity of 1.350 to 1.450, it is drawn off, and
concentrated (see No. 8) in leaden boilers to
a density of 1.G59 to 1.700; after which it ia
further concentrated in green glass or platinum
retorts until the specific gravity reaches 1.842
to 1.844. "When cold, the clear acid is put
into carboys (large globular bottles of green
glass) packed securely with straw in strong
wooden cases, the neck being left exposed
for convenience in obtaining the acid without
unpacking.
3856. Anhydrous Sulphuric Acid.
Anhydrous or dry sulphuric acid is obtai-ned
by heating ISTordhausen acid (see No. 3858) in
a glass retort connected with a well-cooled
receiver.
It is also prepared in the following manner:
2 parts strongest oil of vitriol are gradually
added to 3 parts anhydrous phosphoric acid,
contained in retort surrounded by a freezing
mixture ; when the compound has become
brown, the retort is removed from the freezing
bath and connected with a receiver which
takes its place in the freezing mixture; a
gentle heat is applied to the retort, when
white vapors pass over and condense in the
receiver under the form of beautiful silky
crystals. The product equals in weight that
of the phosphorus originally employed. The
addition of a few drops of water to these
crystals produces a dangerous explosion.
They deliquesce rapidly and fuino in the air ;
introduced into water, they hiss like red-hot
iron. They melt at 66° Fahr., and boil at
about 1050°, and do not redden dry litmus
paper.
3857. Dilute Sulphuric Acid. The
officinal strength of this acid, according to
the IT. S. Pharmacopeia, is thus obtained :
Take 2 troy ounces sulphuric acid ; add
gradually to it 14 fluid ounces distilled water;
filter through paper, and pass sufficient dis-
tilled water through tho filter to make the
diluted acid measure 1 pint. The specific
gravity of this mixture is 1.082. The officinal
strength of the British Pharmacopoeia is
somewhat greater; sufficient distilled water
is added to 1350 grains sulphuric acid, so that,
after it has been shaken and cooled down to
360
ACIDS.
The
60° Fahr., it measures 1 imperial pint,
specific gravity of this is 1.094.
3858. Nordhausen Sulphuric Acid.
This is also known as fuming sulphuric acid.
It is a brown, oily liquid, which fumes in the
air, is intensely corrosive, and has a specific
gravity of about 1.900, and is chiefly used for
dissolving indigo. It is prepared by distilling
calcined sulphate of iron (green vitriol) in an
earthen retort.
3859. Table Showing the Percentage
of Liquid and Dry Sulphuric Acid in
Dilute Acid at Different Densities.
Liquid.
Sp. Gr.
Dry.
Liquid.
Sp. Gr.
Dry.
100
1.8485
81.54
50
1.3884
40.77
99
1.8475
80.72
49
1.3788
39.95
98
1.8460
79.90
48
1.3697
39.14
97
1.8439
79.09
47
1.3612
38.32
96
1.8410
78.28
46
1.3530
37.51
95
1.8376
77.46
45
1.3440
36.69
94
1.8336
76.65
44
1.3345
35.88
93
1.8290
75.83
43
1.3255
35.06
92
1.8233
75.02
42
1.3165
34.25
91
1.8179
74.20
41
1.3080
33.43
90
1.8115
73.39
40
1.2999
32.61
89
1.8043
72.57
39
1.2913
31.80
88
1.7962
71.75
38
1.2826
30.98
87
1.7870
70.94
37
1.2740
30.17
86
1.7774
70.12
36
1.2654
29.35
85
1.7G73
69.31
35
1.2572
28.54
84
1.7570
68.49
34
1.2490
27.72
83
1.7465
67.68
33
1.2409
26.91
82
1.7360
66.86
32
1.2334
26.09
81
1.7245
66.05
31
1.22GO
25.28
80
1.7120
G5.23
• 30
1.2184
24.46
79
1.6993
64.42
29
1.2108
23.65
78
1.G870
63.GO
28
1.2032
22.83
77
1.6750
62.78
27
1.1956
22.01
76
1.6630
61.97
26
1.1876
21.20
75
1.6520
61.15
25
1.1792
20.38
74
1.6415
G0.34
24
1.1706
19.57
73
1.6321
59.52
23
1.1G26
18.75
72
1.G204
58.71
22
1.1549
17.94
71
1.6090
57.89
21
1.1480
17.12
70
1.5975
57.08
20
1.1410
16.31
69
1.5868
5G.2G
19
1.1330
15.49
68
1.5760
55.45
18
1.1246
14.68
67
1.5648
54.63
17
1.11G5
13.86
66
1.5503
53.82
16
1.1090
13.05
65
1.5390
53.00
15
1.1019
12.23
64
1.5280
52.18
14
1.0953
11.60
63
1.5170
51.37
13
1.0887
10.41
62
1.5066
50.55
12
1.0809
9.78
61
1.49GO
49.74
11
1.0743
8.97
60
1.48GO
48.92
10
1.0682
8.15
59
1.4760
48.11
9
1.0614
7.34
58
1.4G60
47.29
8
1.0544
G.52
57
1.4560
46.48
7
1.0477
5.71
56
1.44GO
45.66
6
1.0405
4.89
55
1.4360
44.85
5
1.0336
4.08
54
1.4265
44.03
4
1.0268
3.2G
53
1.4170
43.22
3
1.0206
2.44G
52
1.4073
42.40
2
1.0140
1.63
51
1.3977
41,58
1
1.0074
0.8154
3860. To Purify Oil of Vitriol. Com-
mercial sulphuric acid frequently contains
nitrous acid, arsenic, and saline matter.
These impurities must be removed iu order to
obtain the acid in any high degree of purity.
Nitrous acid is removed by adding about
li grains sugar to each fluid ounce of the
sulphuric acid, heated to neariy its boiling
point, and continuing the heat until the dark
color at first produced disappears, when it
should bo distilled. Another method is by
adding £ to i of 1 per cent, of sulphate of
ammonia to the acid, and heating to ebullition
for a few minutes. In this way tho most
impure acid may be rendered absolutely free
from nitric acid and nitrous oxide.
Arsenic can be got rid of by adding a littlo
sulphuret of barium, or of copper foil, to the
acid, agitating the mixture well, and, after
repose, decanting or distilling it.
Saline matter may be removed by simply
redistilling (rectification.) The distillation
is best conducted on the small scale, in a
glass retort containing a few platinum chips,
heated by a sand-bath or gas flame, rejecting
the first $ fluid ounce that comes over.
3861. Test for Nitric Acid in Sul-
phuric Acid. Place iu a -watch glass a
small portion pure and concentrated sulphuric
acid at a density of 1.84; then pour, drop by
drop, half the quantity of a solution of sulphate
of aniline, prepared by mixing commercial
aniline with diluted sulphuric acid. A glass
rod is dipped in the liquid to bo tested, and
then stirred in the contents of the watch
glass ; from time to time the experimenter
should blow slowly on the agitated liquid;
if the liquid thus stirred contains traces of
nitric acid, circular lines of a deep red are
soon visible, coloring the whole liquid to a
pink. On adding a very small quantity of
nitric acid to the mixture, the liquid becomes
of a carmine color ; the addition of a single
drop of very dilute nitric acid renders the
liquid a deep red, and afterwards a dead red.
3862. To Remove Nitric Acid from
Sulphuric Acid. Diluted sulphuric acid
may be deprived of any small quantity of
nitric acid it may contain, by shaking it up
for a few minutes with a little powdered
(freshly burned) charcoal, and afterwards
filtering it. This will not answer for concen-
trated sulphuric acid ; nitric acid is separated
from it with great difficulty, and only by very
protracted methods.
3863. To Decolorize Sulphuric Acid.
Acid which has become brown by exposure
may be decolorized by heating it gently ; the
carbon of the organic substances is thus con-
verted into carbonic acid.
3864. Sulphurous Acid. This acid is
used to bleach silks, woolens, <tc., (see No.
171G), and to remove vegetable stains and
iron-moulds from linen. For these purposes
it is prepared from sawdust, or any other
refuse carbonaceous matter. The salts formed
by tho combination of sulphurous acid with a
base are called SULPHITES. (See Nos. 1717
and 1718.)
3865. To Obtain Sulphurous Acid.
In the gaseous form this acid is freely evolved
by burning sulphur in air or in dry oxygen.
It is also given off during the digestion of
metals in hot sulphuric acid. "When charcoal,
wood, or cork chips, or sawdust are digested
iu hot sulphuric acid, a mixture of sulphurous
and carbonic acids is obtained, which is used
for bleaching and cleansing purposes.
3866. Pure Gaseous Sulphurous
Acid. This is evolved during the action of
sulphuric acid on mercury or clippings of
ACIDS.
copper. It is also obtained pure by
in a glass retort, a mixture of 100 parts black
oxide of manganese, and 12 or 14 parts sul-
phur. The gas evolved should be collected in
a receiver over mercury.
3867. Sulphurous Acid Solution.
The gas obtained according to the last method
is to be passed through water, which is capa-
disi-
ble of dissolving or absorbing 30 times its
bulk of the gas. To avoid waste in preparing
the solution, the xtnabsorbed gas which es-
capes from the water is usually again passed
through water, and the same arrangement re-
peated through a series of vessels of water so
long as any gas escapes undissolved.
3868. Pure Sulphurous Acid. In
order to prepare sulphurous acid from sul-
phuric acid aud charcoal, it is better to em-
ploy an acid of .74 per cent., or 1.825 specific
gravity. If we take a stronger acid, a part of
it is entirely deoxidized to sulphur, and if
weaker acid be employed, sulphuretted hy-
drogen is evolved. To obtain absolutely pure
sulphurous acid, it is well to put sulphite of
lead and coarse charcoal in the wash bottle.
With these precautions, it is possible to ob-
tain pure sulphurous acid from sulphuric
acid and charcoal.
3869. Pure Liquid Sulphurous Acid.
This can only be obtained bypassing the pure
dry gas through a glass tube surrounded by a
powerful freezing mixture. The specific
gravity of the pure liquid gas is 1.45; its
boiling point is 14° Fahr., and causes intense
cold by its evaporation.
3870. Hydrosulphuric Acid, also
Called Sulphuretted Hydrogen. When
sulphur acts upon paraffino at a temperature a
little above the melting point of sulphur, hy-
drosulphuric acid gas is evolved in large
quantities, and this method may be advan-
tageously used for its generation in the la-
boratory. A flask, holding about a pound of
the material, is fitted with a tube bent at
right angles, about \ inch bore and 12 to 18
inches long, containing cotton wool, and to
this is attached the small tube for precipita-
tion. The production of gas may be stopped
by removing the heat. Heavy parafBne oil,
stearic acid, or suet, may be used as a substi-
tute for parafSne.
3871. Nitro-Sulphuric Acid. Dissolve
1 part nitre in 9 parts sulphuric acid. This is
used to separate the silver from the copper
and solder of old plated goods. At about
200° Fahr. it readily dissolves silver, but
scarcely acts on copper, lead, or tin, unless
diluted, or assisted by a much higher tempera-
ture.
3872. Nitric Acid. There are five com-
pounds of nitrogen and oxygen. The union
of 1 equivalent of nitrogen with 1 of oxygen
produces nitrous oxide, or laughing gas; with
2 oxygen, nitric oxide; with 3 oxygen, ni-
trous acid; with 4 oxygen, hyponitric acid;
and with 5 equivalents of oxygen, nitric acid.
Pure liquid nitric acid is colorless, highly cor-
rosive, and possesses powerful acid properties.
It is employed in assaying, to dye silk and
woolens yellow, and to form various salts. In
medicine, it is used as a caustic, &c. The
officinal strength of nitric acid of the U. S.
and British pharmacopoeias has a specific
gravity of 1.42, and boils at 250° Fahr.
heating Nitric acid of less density than 1.42 parts
with water and becomes stronger at lower
temperatures; but acid of higher specific
gravity is weakened by exposure to heat. It
freezes when exposed to extreme cold. It
rapidly oxidizes the metals, and unites with
them and the other bases, forming salts
called NITRATES. Two strengths of this acid
occur in the arts, known as double and sin-
gle aqua-fortis. Double aqua-fortis has usually
a specific gravity of 1.36, and single, or ordin-
ary aqua-fortis (.29, Both are frequently sold
at lower strengths. This can easily be ascer-
tained by acidimetry. (See No. 78.)
3873. To Obtain Nitric Acid. The
usual method adopted for obtaining this acid
is to add to nitrate of potassa in coarse pow-
der, contained in a glass retort, an equal
weight of strong sulphuric acid, poured in
through a funnel, so as not to wet the neck of
the retort. The materials should not exceed
two-thirds of the capacity of the retort. A
moderate heat is at first applied, increasing as
the materials begin to thicken. Red vapors
will at first arise and pass over into the re-
ceiver; these will disappear in the course of
the distillation, but subsequently renewed,
showing that the process is completed. The
pale yellow acid thus obtained may be ren-
dered colorless, if desired, by heating it gently
in a retort.
3874. To Purify Nitric Acid. The
nitric acid of commerce frequently contains
chlorine, muriatic and sulphuric acids, and
sometimes iodine, from which it may be puri-
fied by the addition of a little nitrate of sil-
ver, as long as it produces any cloudiness, and,
after repose, decanting the clear acid, and
rectifying it at a heat under 212° Fahr. A
perfectly colorless product may be obtained,
by introducing a small portion of pure black
oxide of manganese into the retort. Nitric
acid may also be purified by rectification at a
gentle heat, rejecting the first liquid that
comes over, receiving the middle portion as
genuine acid, and leaving a residuum in the
retort. Another method is to agitate it with
a little red-lead before rectification.
3875. Tests for Nitric Acid. It stains
the skin yellow. "When mixed with a little
muriatic acid or sal-ammoniac, it acquires the
power of dissolving gold leaf. When mixed
with dilute sulphuric acid, and poured on a
few fragments of zinc or iron in a tube, the
evolved gas burns with a greenish white
flame. Substitute alcohol for zinc in the last
test. Morphia, brucia, and strychnia give it
a red color, which is heightened by ammonia
in excess. When placed in a tube, and a so-
lution of protosulphate of iron cautiously add-
ed, a dark color is developed at the line of
junction, which is distinctly visible when only
¥Toinr Part °f nitric acid is present. When
mixed with a weak solution of sulphate of in-
digo, and heated, the color is destroyed.
3876. Dilute Nitric Acid. Mix 3 troy
ounces nitric acid specific gravity 1.42 in a
glass vessel with sufficient distilled water to
make the dilute acid measure 1 pint. The
specific gravity of officinal dilute nitric acid is
1.068, IT. S. Dis.
3877. Fuming; Nitric Acid. The red
fuming nitrous or nitric acid of commerce is
simply nitric acid loaded with nitrous or hy-
362
ACIDS.
ponitric acid. It may be thus prepared : Put
into an iron or stoneware pot, nitre or nitrate
of soda, add rather more than half its weight
of strong sulphuric acid, and lute on a stone-
ware head. The vapor is conducted into a
series of two-necked stoneware vessels, con-
taining each & of their capacity of water.
The acid is usually obtained of the density of
about 1.45. It is colored with nitrous acid
gas, forming what is commonly, but improp-
erly, termed nitrous acid. By gently heating
the colored acid in a retort, the nitrous acid is
driven off, and the acid remains nearly
colorless, usually of the density of 1.38 to
1.42.
3878. Tire's Table of Percentage of
Nitric Acid. This table is useful for finding
the strength of dilute acids.
Specific
Gravity.
Liq.
Acid
in 100.
Dry Acid
in 100.
Specific
Gravity.
Liq.
Acid
in 100.
Dry Acid
in 100.
1.5000
100
79.700
1.2947
50
39.850
1.4980
99
78.903
1.2887
49
39.053
1.4960
98
78.106
1.2826
48
38.256
1.4940
97
77.309
1.2765
47
37.459
1.4910
96
76.512
1.2705
46
36.662
1.4880
95
75.715
1.2644
45
35.865
1.4850
94
74.918
1.2583
44
35.068
1.4820
93
74.121
1.2523
43
34.271
1.4790
92
73.324
1.2462
42
33.474
1.4760
91
72.527
1.2402
41
32.677
1.4730
90
71.730
1.2341
40
31.880
1.4700
89
70.933
1.2277
39
31.083
1.4670
88
70.136
1.2212
38
30.286
1.4640
87
69.339
1.2148
37
29.489
1.4600
86
68.542
1.2084
36
28.692
1.4570
85
67.745
1.2019
35
27.895
1.4530
84
66.948
1.1958
34
27.098
1.4500
83
66.155
1.1895
33
26.301
1.4460
82
65.354
1.1833
32
25.504
1.4424
81
64.557
1.1770
31
24.707
1.4385
80
63.760
1.1709
30
23.900
1.4346
79
62.963
1.1648
29
23.113
1.4306
78
62.166
1.1587
28
22.316
1.4269
77
61.369
1.1526
27
21.519
1.4228
76
60.572
1.1465
26
20.722
1.4189
75
59.755
1.1403
25
19.925
1.4147
74
58.978
1.1345
24
19.128
1.4107
73
58.181
1.1286
23
18.331
1.4065
72
57.384
1.1227
22
17.534
1.4023
71
56.587
1.1168
21
16.737
1.3978
70
55.790
1.1109
20
15.940
1.3945
69
54.993
1.1051
19
15.143
1.3882
68
54.196
1.0993
18
14.346
1.3833
67
53.399
1.0935
17
13.549
1.3783
66
52.602
1.0878
16
12.752
1.3732
65
51.805
1.0821
15
11.955
1.3681
64
51.068
1.0764
14
11.158
1.3630
63
50.211
1.0708
13
10.361
1.3579
62
49.414
1.0651
12
9.564
1.3529
61
48.617
1.0595
11
8.767
1.3477
60
47.820
1.0540
10
7.970
1.3427
59
47.023
1.0485
9
7.173
1.3376
58
46.226
1.0430
8
6.376
1.3323
57
45.429
1.0375
7
5.579
1.3270
56
44.632
1.0320
6
4.782
1.3216
55
43.835
1.0267
5
3.985
1.3163
54
43.03B
1.0212
4
3. 188
1.3110
53
42.241
1.0159
3
2.391
1.3056
52
41.444
1.0106
2
1.594
1.3001
51
40.647
1.0053
1
0.797
3879. Nitre-Muriatic Acid. Aqua
regia. This is used in the arts, chiefly as a
solvent for gold. By the mutual action of
nitric and muriatic acids a compound of
chlorine, nitrogen, and oxygen is formed.
The best proportions and strength of the acids
are variously stated. Colorless nitric acid
must be used. Elkington employs 21 parts
of nitric acid, specific gravity 1.45; 17 parts
of muriatic acid 1.15 specific gravity; and 14
parts of water. This dissolves 5 parts of
gold. (See No. 3588.) According to Cooley
this acid is prepared by mixing 1 part by
measure nitric acid and 2 parts hydrochloric
acid. The mixture should be kept in a bottle
in a cold and dark place. (See No. 3193.)
"With a base, this compound acid forms a
NITRO-MURIATE.
3880. Dyer's Aqua-Fortis. Another
mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acids,
known as Dyer's aqua-fortis, is used by dyers,
as it dissolves tin without oxidizing it. Mix
10 pounds colorless nitric acid, specific gravity
1.17, with 1 pound hydrochloric acid 1.19.
3881. Dilute Nitrp-Muriatic Acid.
Mix \\ troy ounces nitric acid, and 2n troy
ounces muriatic acid in a pint bottle. Shake
occasionally during 24 hours, and add dis-
tilled water to make up to 1 pint. Keep in a
cool place, protected from the light. ( U. S.
Ph. )
3882. Muriatic or Hydrochloric Acid.
Pure muriatic acid is a colorless invisible gas,
having a pungent odor and an acid taste, and
fuming on coming into contact with air. It is
irrespirable and uninflammable. Its specific
gravity is 1.2695. Under a pressure of 40
atmospheres it is liquid. "Water at 40° Pahr.
absorbs 480 times its volume of this gas, and
acquires the specific gravity 1.2109. One
cubic inch of water at 69° Fahr. absorbs 418
cubic inches, and the specific gravity becomes
1.1958. The aqueous solution of the gas con-
stitutes the liquid form of the acid. The
combinations of muriatic acid with a base are
MURIATES, or IIYDROCHLORATES.
3883. To Obtain Muriatic Acid. The
acid solution in water is thus obtained : In-
troduce 48 ounces (avoirdupois) dried chloride
of sodium into a fia.sk capable of containing
an imperial gallon. Pour 44 fluid ounces sul-
phuric acid slowly into 32 fluid ounces water;
and, when cool, add the mixture to the chlor-
ide of sodium in the flask. Connect the flask,
by corks and a glass tube, with a three-necked
wash-bottle, furnished with a safety tube, and
containing 4 ounces water. Apply heat to
the flask, conduct the disengaged gas through
the wash-bottle, and thence, by means of a
glass tube, into another bottle containing £0
fluid ounces distilled water, the end of the
tube dipping about 4 inch below the surface.
Continue the process until the product mea-
sures 66 fluid ounces, or' till the liquid has
acquired a specific gravity of 1.16. The bot-
tle must be kept cool during the process.
The muriatic acid of commerce is now
chiefly obtained from the manufacturers of car-
bonate of soda, who procure it as a secondary
product. "When, however, it is directly pre-
pared from sea-salt, an iron or stoneware
boiler, set in brickwork over an open fire,
furnished with a stoneware head, and con-
nected with a series of capacious double-
necked stoneware bottles, usually constitutes
the distillatory and condensing apparatus.
ACIDS.
363
3884. Gregory's Method of Obtain-
ing Pure Muriatic Acid. Put into a ma-
trass 6 parts, by weight, of purified salt, and
10 ounces oil of vitriol previously diluted
with 4 of water, and cooled. Fix in the ma-
trass a tube twice bent at right angles and
having a bulb blown on the descending limb.
Into a bottle surrounded with ice and water
introduce distilled water equal in weight to
the salt employed, and let the bent tube dip-J-
of an inch into the water. Apply a gentle
heat of a sand-bath to the matrass as long as
In about 2 hours the opera-
acid conies over.
3886.
tion will be finished. The water is increased
§• in bulk, and converted into hydrochloric
acid of 1.14 or 1.15 specific gravity. To pro-
cure it of 1.21 specific gravity, employ part
of this acid during the first half of a similar
operation, and it will be speedily saturated.
Phillips says a perfectly colorless acid may be
obtained from the commercial sulphuric acid
and common salt.
3885. Dilute Muriatic Acid. Mix 4
troy ounces muriatic acid with sufficient dis-
tilled water to make a pint. The specific grav-
ity of the diluted acid is 1.038. ( U. S. Ph.)
Ure's Table of Percentage of Chlorine and Muriatic Acid Gas in Liquid
Muriatic Acid.
Acid
of 1.20
in 100.
Specific
Gravity.
Chlorine
Muriatic
Gas.
j Acid
of 1.20
in 100.
Specific
Gravity.
Chlorine
Muriatic
Gas.
Acid
of 1.20
in 100.
Specific
Gravity.
Chlorine
Muriatic
Gas.
100
1.2000
39.675
40.777
66
1.1328
26.186
26.913
32
1.0637
12.697
13.049
99
1.1982
39.278
40.369
65
1.1308
25.789
26.505
31
1.0617
12.300
12.641
98
1.1964
38.882
39.961
64
1.1287
25.392
26.098
30
1.0597
11.903
12.233
97
1.1946
38.485
39.554
63
1.1267
24.996
25.690
29
1.0577
11.506
11.825
98
1.1928
38.089
39.146
62
1.1247
24.599
25.282
28
1.0557
11.109
11.418
95
1.1910
37.692
38.738
61
1.1226
24.202
24.874
27
1.0537
10.712
11.010
94
1.1893
37.296
38.330
60
1.1206
23.805
24.466
26
1.0517
10.316
10.602
93
1.1875
36.900
37.923
59
1.1185
23.408
24.058
25
1.0497
9.919
10.194
92
1.1857
36.503
37.516
58
1.1164
23.012
23.650
24
1.0477
9.522
9.786
91
1.1846
36.107
37.108
57
1.1143
22.615
23.242
23
1.0457
9.126
9.379
90
1.1822
35.707
36.700
56
1.1123
22.218
22.834
22
1.0437
8.729
8.971
89
1.1802
35.310
36.292
55
1.1102
21.822
22.426
21
1.0417
8.332
8.563
88
1.1782
34.913
35.884
54
1.1082
21.425
22.019
20
1.0397
7.935
8.155
87
1.1762
34.517
35.476
53
1.10G1
21.028
21.611
19
1.0377
7.538
7.747
86
1.1741
34.121
35.068
52
1.1041
20.632
21.203
18
1.0357
7.141
7.340
85
1.1721
33.724
34.660
51
1.1020
20.235
20.796
17
1.0337
6.745
6.932
84
1.1701
33.328
34.252
50
1.1000
19.837
20.388
16
1.0318
6.348
6.524
83
1.1681
32.931
33.845
49
1.0980
19.440
19.980
15
1.0298
5.951
6.116
82
1.1661
32.535
33.437
48
1.0960
19.044
19.572
14
1.0279
5.554
5.709
81
1.1641
32.136
33.029
47
1.0939
18.647
19.165
13
1.0259
5.158
5.301
80
1.1620
31.746
32.621
46
1.0919
18.250
18.757
12
1.0239
4.762
4.893
79
1.1599
31.343
32.213
45
1.0899
17.854
18.349
11
1.0220
4.365
4.486
78
1.1578
30.946
31.805
44
1.0879
17.457
17.941
10
1.0200
3.968
4.078
77
1.1557
30.550
31.398
43
1.0859
17.060
17.534
9
1.0180
3.571
3.670
76
1.1536
30.153
30.990
42
1.0838
16.664
17.126
8
1.0160
3.174
3.262
75
1.1515
29.755
30.582
41
1.0818
16.267
16.718
7
1.0140
2.778
2.854
74
1.1494
29.361
30.174
40
1.0798
15.870
16.310
6
1.0120
2.381
2.447
73
1.1473
28.964
29.767
39
1.0778
15.474
15.902
5
1.0100
1.984
2.039
72
1.1452
28.567
29.359
38
1-0758
15.077
15.494
4
1.0080
1.588
1.631
71
1.1431
28.171
28.951
37
1.0738
14.680
15.087
3
1.0060
1.191
1.224
70
1.1410
27.772
28.544
36
1.0718
14.284
14.679
2
1.0040
0.795
0.816
69
1.1389
27.376
28.136
35
1.0397
13.887
14.271
1
1.0020
0.397
0.408
63 1.1369
26.979
27.728
34
1.0677
13.490
13.863
67 1.1349
26.583
27.321
33
1.0657
13.094
13.456
3837. Tests for Muriatic Acid. When
a glass rod, dipped in liquor of ammonia, is
held near it, it gives off white fumes. "With
nitrate of silver it gives a white, cloudy preci-
pitate, insoluble in nitric acid, freely soluble
m liquor of ammonia, and blackened by ex-
posure to the light.
3888. To Purify Muriatic Acid.
Commercial muriatic acid may be purified by
diluting it with an equal weight of water,
gently heating it in a retort, and receiving the
evolved gas into a fresh quantity of pure wa-
ter. Iodine and arsenic may be removed by
agitating it for a few minutes with some small
pieces of bright copper foil previously to recti-
fication.
3889. Acetic Acid. This is the well-
known acid principle of vinegar. It is one of
the common products of fermentation, of the
oxygenation of alcohol, and of the destructive
distillation of wood and other vegetable mat-
ter. The officinal strength of acetic acid
adopted by the tJ. S. Pharmacopeia has a
specific gravity of 1.047. Special methods
for testing the strength of acetic acid are given
under Acetimetry, No 69. "With bases this
acid forms ACETATES.
Commercial acetic acid is principally manu-
factured on the Large scale from acetate of
soda, which yields a sufficiently strong and
pure acid for commercial purposes, without
the trouble of rectification. In this process,
shallow copper vessels formed without rivets
or solder in those parts exposed to the action
of the acid, are employed for the purpose of
the distillation. A coil of drawn copper pipe,
heated by steam, having a pressure of 30 to
35 pounds to the inch, traverses the bottom of
the apparatus. The refrigeratory consists of
well cooled earthenware vessels, and the
364
ACIDS,
adopter or pipe connecting the still -with the { of sulphuric acid and water, and, -when cold
receivers is also of the same materials. Stills pour it on the acetate and sulphate, previously
of earthenware are also frequently employed,
and even worms and condensers of silver are
sometimes used. The crystalline acetate of
soda is placed in the still, and 35 to 36 parts
of strong oil of vitriol are added to every 100
parts or the acetate of soda, and the whole
stirred together with a wooden spatula. The
head of the still is then luted on and the dis-
tillation commenced. This produces an acid
of a specific gravity of about 1.050, and, after
being agitated with a little animal charcoal,
and passed through a prepared muslin filter,
is ready for sale. Some manufacturers add a
little acetic ether to it. By this process 4
pounds of acetic acid of the strength above
mentioned is obtained for every 3 pounds of
the acetate of soda employed. (See No.
1741.)
3890. Dilute Acetic Acid. The TJ. S.
Pharmacopoeia directs 1 pint acetic acid to be
mixed with 7 pints distilled water, producing
an acid of specific gravity 1.00(5 ; 100 grains of
dilute acetic acid saturate 7.6 grains bicarbon-
ate of potassa.
3891. To
Obtain Pure Glacial or
Hydrated Acetic Acid. Place 30 parts
dry and finely powdered pure acetate of soda
in a capacious retort, and pour on it 97 parts
pure sulphuric acid. The heat developed by
the action of the ingredients will cause one-
eighth of the acetic acid to pass over. The
retort may then be placed in a sand bath until
the contents become quite liquid. The pro-
duct, carefully rectified, yields 2 parts of pure
acid containing only 20 per cent, of water.
By exposing the latter portion, which comes
over in a closed vessel, to a temperature below
40° Fahr., crystals of hydrated (glacial) acetic
acid will be deposited. The liquid portion
being then poured off, the crystals are again
melted and re-crystallized by cooling. These
last crystals, separated from the liquid, are
perfectly pure.
3892. To Obtain Glacial or Hydrated
Acetic Acid Without Distillation. The
acid may also be obtained without resorting to
distillation, thus: Place 100 parts powdered
acetate of soda (pure commercial) in a hard-
glazed stoneware or glass pan ; pour 35 or 36
parts concentrated sulphuric acid gradually
into the pan, so that the acid may flow under
the powder, and as little heat as possible be
generated by the operation. In furtherance of
this necessary end, the process is best conduct-
ed in a cool apartment, and the pan kept
well cooled. The whole must now be covered
and allowed to stand for some hours, when
crystalline grains of sulphate of soda will be
found covering the inside of the vessel, and
hydrated acetic acid, partly liquid and partly
in crystals, in the upper portion. The tem-
perature must then be raised just sufficiently
to liquefy the crystals of acetic acid, the fluid
poured off, and a very small quantity of pure
acetate of lime added gradually/ until it
yields no trace of sulphuric acid on evap-
oration. After repose it may be decanted for
use.
3893. To Obtain Pure Acetic Acid.
Triturate together 10 parts crystallized neutral
acetate of lead, and 3 parts effloresced (dry)
sulphate of soda; mix together 2i parts each
placed in a retort; then distill to dryness in
a sand bath. The acid that comes over in
the distillation by this process is very pure, and
may be used as' a test acid for chemical an-
alyses.
3894. To Obtain Anhydrous Acetic
Acid. This is acetic acid free from water,
as it exists in dry acetates. Mix, in a gla^s
retort, well-fused acetate of potassa with half
its weight of chloride of benzoyle ; apply a
gentle heat, collect the liquid that distills
over, and rectify it carefully. Hot water add-
ed to this resolves it into hydrated or glacial
acetic acid.
3895. Camphorated Acetic Acid.
Pulverize 1 ounce camphor in 1 fluid drachm
rectified spirit, and dissolve in 10 fluid ounces
strong acetic acid. This is fragrant and re-
freshing, and used as an embrocation in rheu-
matism and neuralgia, and as a fumigation in
fever, <fcc.
3896. To Obtain Strong Acetic Acid
from Vinegar. Expose the vinegar to the
action of a freezing mixture, or place in the
air in very cold weather ; the water separates
and becomes ice, and the strong acid remain-
ing fluid may be drained from it. (See No.
1749.)
3897. Mohr's Table of the Specific
Gravity of Acetic Acid at Various
strengths. The following table, drawn up
by M. Mohr, exhibits the specific gravity of
acetic acid of almost every strength.
Per cent,
of Glacial
Acid.
Sp. Gr.
Per cent,
of Glacial
Acid.
Sp. Gr.
Per cent,
of Glacial
Acid.
Sp. Gr.
100
1.0635
67
1.069
34
1.045
99
1.0635
66
1.069
33
1.044
98
1.067
65
1.068
32
1.0424
97
1.0680
64
1.068
31
1.041
96
1.009
63
1.068
30
1.040
95
1.070
62
1.067
29
1.039
94
1.0706
61
1.067
28
1.038
93
1.0708
CO
1.067
27
1.036
92
1.0716
59
1.066
26
1.035
91
1.0721
58
1.086
25
1.034
90
1.0730
57
1.065
24
1.033
89
1.0730
56
1.064
23
1.032
88
1.0730
55
1.064
22
1.031
87
1.0730
54
1.033
21
1.029
86
1.0730
53
1.063
20
1027
85
1.0730
52
1.062
19
1.026
84
1.0730
51
1.061
18
1.025
83
1.0730
50
1.060
17
1.024
82
1.0730
49
1.059
16
1.023
81
1.0732
48
1.058
15
1.022
80
1.0735
47
1.056
14
1.020
79
1.0732
46
1.055
13
1.018
78
1.0732
45
1.055
12
1.017
77
1.073
44
1.054
11
1.016
76
1.072
43
1.053
10
1.015
75
1.072
42
1.052
9
1.013
74
1.072
41
1.0515
8
1.012
73
1.071
40
1.0513
7
1.010
72
1.071
39
1.050
6
1.C08
71
1.071
38
1.049
5
1.C067
70
1.070
37
1.048
4
1.C065
69
1.070
36
1.047
3
1.C04
68
1.070
35
1.046
2
1.002
1
1.001
ACIDS.
365
3898. To Concentrate Acetic Acid.
Acid containing 20 per cent, of water may be
deprived of a good deal of its superfluous
water by standing over dry sulphate of soda.
It may then be used either with or without
distillation. Acetic acid of ordinary strength
may be concentrated to any degree of rectifi-
cation once or oftener from dry acetate of po-
tassa or soda, rejecting the first and last por-
tions that come over. The same acetate may
be used repeatedly. The heat em ployed must
not exceed 500- to 570° Fahr. Pure hydrated
acetic acid liquefies above 62° Fahr.; at 50° to
55° it crystallizes in brilliant, colorless, trans-
parent needles and plates; at 40° it is a crys-
talline solid. Free acetic acid reddens litmus
paper, and may bo recognized by its odor and
volatility.
3899. Tests for the Purity of Acetic
Acid. By heat it escapes entirely in vapor.
Either nitrate of silver or chloride of barium
being added to it, will produce uo precipitate.
"When a thin plate of silver is digested in it,
and hydrochloric acid subsequently dropped
in, no precipitate is formed. Its color is un-
changed by the addition of hydrosulphuric
acid, or ammonia, or by ferrocyanido of potas-
sium added after the ammonia. Tho presence
of sulphuric acid is indicated by a white pre-
cipitate being formed on the addition of a lit-
tle peroxide of lead.
3900. Oxalic Acid. This consists of
colorless crystals, possessing considerable vol-
atility, and a strong, sour taste; when ex-
posed to a very dry atmosphere they effloresce
slightly. Oxalic acid sublimes at 180° Fahr.,
and melts at 280° ; is soluble in about nine
times its weight of cold, and in its own weight
of boiling water; soluble also, but in a less
degree, in alcohol. It has a strong affinity
for lime, and is therefore a good test for its
presence, by yielding a precipitate insoluble
in excess of the acid. With the bases, oxalic
acid forms OXALATES.
3901. To Obtain Oxalic Acid. Lie-
big proposes : Nitric acid (specific gravity
1.42), 5 parts; water, 10 parts; mix, add
sugar, or preferably potato starch, 1 part, and
digest by a gentle heat as long as gaseous
products are evolved ; evaporate and crystal-
lize, dry the crystals, redissolvo in the small-
est possible quantity of boiling water, and
crystallize; 12 parts of potato starch yield
5 of acid. The mother water, treated with
more nitric acid, and again warmed, will
yield a second crop of crystals ; and this
should be repeated till the solution is ex-
hausted.
Schlesiuger gives the following method :
Sugar 4 parts (dried at 257° Fahr.); nitric
acid (specific gravity 1.38) 33 parts; the mix-
ture, as soon as the evolution of gas ceases, is
to be boiled down to one-sixth its original
volume, and allowed to crystallize. The
whole process may be executed in 2 hours,
and yields of beautifully crystallized oxalic
acid from 56 to 60 per cent, of the sugar em-
ployed.
On the large scale, the first part of the pro-
cess is usually conducted in salt-glazed stone-
ware pipkins, about two-thirds filled and set
in a water-bath ; but on the small scale a
glass retort or capsule may be used. The
evaporation should be preferably conducted
by steam. The evolved nitrous vapors are
usually allowed to escape, but if conveyed
into a chamber filled with cold damp air, and
containing a little water, they will absorb
oxygen, and be recondensed into fuming
nitric acid. In England an equivalent pro-
portion of molasses is usually substituted for
sugar. Another process consists in first con-
verting potato fecula into grape sugar with
sulphuric acid, and then decomposing tho
sugar thus obtained by nitric acid, in tho
usual way. Dr. Ure recommends the use of
a little sulphuric acid along with the nitrio
acid, which, he says, contributes to increase
the product; 15 pounds of sugar yielding
fully 17 pounds of crystallized oxalic acid.
3902. Dale's Process for Obtaining
Oxalic Acid. At present much of the oxalic
acid of commerce is obtained by heating saw-
dust with a mixture of 2 parts caustic soda
with 1 part caustic potassa. A watery solution
of the mixed alkalies is evaporated to specific
gravity 1.35, and then mixed with sawdust
to a paste. This is heated on iron plates to
400° Fahr., and kept at that temperature for 1
or 2 hours, with constant stilling ; the heat is
continued until the mass is quite dry, but not
charred. It now contains 28 to 30 per cent,
of oxalic acid combined with the alkalies. By
washing the powder on a filter with a solution
of carbonate of soda, all traces of potassa are
washed out. Tho oxalate of soda is convert-
ed, by heated milk of lime, into oxalate of
lime, and the resulting oxalate of lime is
treated with sulphuric acid, leaving a solu-
tion of oxalic acid ready to be evaporated into
crystals. Two pounds of sawdust yield 1
pound oxalic acid.
3903. Chemically Pure Oxalic Acid.
Chemically pure oxalic acid is best prepared
by precipitating a solution of binoxalate of
potash with acetate of lead, washing tho pre-
cipitate with water, and decomposing it, while
still moist, with dilute sulphuric acid or sul-
phuretted hydrogen. Filter and evaporate
gently, so that crystals may form as it cools.
3904. To Distinguish Oxalic Acid
from Epsom Salts. Oxalic acid has occa-
sionally been mistaken for Epsom salts, with
fatal results. They may be easily distinguish-
ed. Epsom salts taste extremely bitter and
nauseous; oxalic acid tastes extremely sour.
It is pafer to taste a weak solution in apply-
ing this test. Epsoni salts, dissolved in water
and mixed with carbonate of soda, or carbo-
nate of potash, turn milky, and, after a time, a
white sediment subsides; oxalic acid, mixed
with carbonate of soda or carbonate of potash,
effervesces, and the liquid, in a few seconds,
becomes transparent.
3905. Gallic Acid. When pure, gallic
acid forms small, feathery, and nearly color-
less crystals, which have a beautiful silky
lustre. Commercial gallic acid has usually a
palo yellow color, soluble in both water and
alcohol. Its aqueous solution decomposes by
exposure to the air. It blackens the salts of
iron. Dissolved in hot oil of vitriol, it forms
a deep, rich, red solution, which, when thrown
into water, drops the gallic acid, deprived of
some of its water. Gallic acid forms GAL-
LATES with the bases.
3906. To Obtain Gallic Acid. Mix 36
troy ounces nut-gall, in fine powder, with suf-
366
ACIDS.
ficient distilled water to make a thin paste ;
expose the mixture to the air in a shallow
glass or porcelain vessel, in a warm place, for
a month, occasionally stirring with a glass
rod, and adding sufficient distilled water to
preserve the original consistence. Then press
out the water, boil the residue in 8 pints dis-
tilled water for a few minutes, and filter while
hot through purified animal charcoal. (See
No. 1752). Set aside to crystallize, and dry
the crystals on bibulous paper. If not suffi-
ciently free from color, dissolve the crystals
in boiling distilled water, filter through a
fresh portion of the charcoal, and crystallize
again. (U. S. Ph.)
3907. To Obtain Gallic Acid from
Tannin. Add a strong aqueous solution of
tanuio acid (tannin) to sulphuric acid, as long
as a precipitate falls; collect the powder,
wash, and dissolve it by the aid of heat in
diluted sulphuric acid; boil for a few min-
utes, cool, and collect the crystals of gallic
acid which will form in considerable quantity.
3908. To Distinguish Gallic Acid
from Tannic Acid. Gallic acid does not
affect solutions of gelatine, the protosalts of
iron, or. the salts of the alkaloids; but it pro-
duces a black precipitate with the sesquisalts
of iron, which disappears when the liquid is
heated.
3909. Pyrogallic Acid. This acid, is
formed in white, shining scales, inodorous,
very bitter; soluble in water, alcohol, and
ether ; fusible at 239° Fahr., and subliming at
410°. When quite pure, it has no action on
litmus paper. It is used in photography.
A solution of the crude acid mixed with a
little alcohol imparts a fine brown color to
the hair, but stains the skin also.
3910. To Obtain Pyrogallic Acid.
It may be prepared by heating gallic acid
(previously dried at 212° Fahr.) in a glass
retort, by means of a chloride of zinc bath, to
410°, when the pure acid sublimes, and forms
in crystals on the neck of the retort, and in
the receiver, which should be kept well
cooled.
3911. Tannic Acid? also called Tannin.
Pure tannic acid is solid, uncrystallizable,
white, or slightly yellow ; strongly astringent,
but without bitterness ; very soluble in wa-
ter, less so in alcohol and ether, and insoluble
in fixed or volatile oils. Its solution reddens
litmus. "With the bases tannic acid forms
TANNATES.
Among the incoinpatibles of tannin are the
alkaloids of opium, and it is altogether una-
voidable that if solutions of them are brought
together, a precipitate will form of tannates ;
also, if the preparation of opium contain
siffron, as in acetum opii and Sydeuham's
laudanum, this will cause a further precipita-
tion of the extractive of saflfron. (See No.
3908.)
3912. To Obtain Tannic Acid. Ex-
pose nut-gall in fine powder to a damp atmo-
sphere for 24 hours, then mix it with suffi-
cient ether, previously washed with water, to
form a soft paste. Set this aside, closely
covered, for G hours ; then envelope it quickly
in a close canvas cloth, and obtain the liquid
portion by pressing powerfully between tinned
plates. Reduce the resulting cake to powder,
mix it with sufficient ethe- shaken with -rV
its bulk of water, to form again a soft paste,
and express as before. Mix the liquids, and
evaporate spontaneously to a syrupy consist-
ence; then spread it on glass or tinned
plates, and dry quickly in a drying closet.
Put the dry residue in a well-stopped bottle.
3913. Carbonic Acid. An acid com-
pound, formed by the union of carbon with
oxygen, sometimes called choke-damp. A
colorless gas possessing a pungent odor and
acidulous taste, rapidly absorbed by water,
forming liquid carbonic acid. The agreeable
pungency of ale, beer, porter, wine, &c., is in
a great measure owing to the presence of
carbonic acid, which they lose on exposure to
the air, and then become fiat and stale.
Spring and well water contain carbonic acid,
and water that has been boiled has an insipid
taste, from its absence. Under a pressure of
36 atmospheres at 32° Fahr. it becomes
fluid, and on the pressure being removed,
congeal?-, from the cold produced by its rapid
evaporation. It has been estimated that the
temperature falls to 180° in this experiment.
Carbonic acid gas is destructive to life, and
extinguishes combustion. An atmosphere con-
taining more than its natural quantity (about
•nj\nj), is unfit for respiration. The air of wells,
cellars, brewers' vats, &c., is frequently con-
taminated with this gas (choke-damp) ; hence
the necessity of the old plan of letting down
a burning candle before venturing in. If the
candle will not burn, man cannot breathe
there. "With the bases, this acid forms CAR-
BONATES.
3914. To Obtain Carbonic Aoid.
Dilute muriatic acid with 4 limes its weight
of water, then pour it upon fragments of
marble, previously placed in a tubulated re-
tort. Carbonic acid gas will be rapidly
evolved, and may either be collected in the
mercurial pneumatic trough, or applied to
immediate use. "When wanted perfectly dry,
it must be passed over dried chloride of cal-
cium, or through concentrated oil of vitriol.
This is the most convenient way of procuring
the gas on the small scale, or in the labora-
tory. Or: Dilute oil of vitriol with 3 or 4
times its weight of water, then pour it on
whiting placed in a suitable vessel, and apply
agitation. This is the plan adopted on the
large scale by the soda water makers. (See
No. 718.)
3915. Tests for Carbonic Acid. It
reddens litmus paper, extinguishes the flame
of a burning taper, and forms a white pre-
cipitate in aqueous solutions of lime and
baryta, which is soluble in acetic acid. By
the last test, a very small quantity of this
gas may be easily detected in the atmosphere
of rooms, <fec.
3916. Carbolic Acid, also called
Phenol, Phonic acid, and hydrate of Plicnyle.
It consists of long, colorless prismatic crys-
tals, which melt at about 90° Fahr. into an
oily liquid resembling creosote. The ciystals
deliquesce in moist air, forming a sort of
hydrate, which boils at 370° and has a specific
gravity of 1.0G5. Heated with ammonia, it
yields aniline and water ; and nitric acid con-
verts it into picric acid. Commercial creosote
consists principally of hydrated carbolic acid,
but is easily distinguishable from it, as carbolic
acid coagulates collodion, creosote does not.
A CIDS.
367
It has come into prominent notice as an effi-
cient disinfectant.
3917. To Obtain Carbolic Acid. This
is obtained from that portion of coal-tar
which distills over between 300° and 400°
Fahr.; this, when mixed with a hot concen-
trated solution of hydrate of potassa, is re-
solved, on the addition of water, into a light
oil and a heavier alkaline liquid. By separat-
ing the latter, and neutralizing it with
muriatic acid, impure carbolic acid will float
on tbe surface in the form of a light oil. If
this be distilled from dried chloride of cal-
cium to separate the water, and the distillate
be exposed to a low temperature, carbolic
acid congeals in a colorless deliquescent crys-
talline mass, which may be separated from
the liquid by pressure in bibulous paper. At
95° Fahr. the crystals melt and constitute the
liquid carbolic acid. The introduction of a
crystal of carbolic acid into the acid to be
congealed, greatly facilitates its crystalliza-
tion.
3918.
Tests for the Purity of Carbolic
Acid. If it becomes browu under the in-
fluence of light and air it is impure.
Put 1 fluid drachm of the liquid acid in a
bottle with ^ pint warm water, and shake oc-
casionally for half an hour; the amount of
oily residue will indicate the measure of adul-
teration.
Mix 1 part caustic soda with 10 parts of the
acid, and shake them well together. Any
uudissolved residue is impurity.
3919. To Remove the Odor from Car-
bolic Acid. It may be interesting to know
of a method which will entirely remove this
odor, substituting for it a delicate trace of
gerauium leaves, which may, perhaps, be im-
proved upon by adding a few drops of that
oil. The process, as recently published by
Professor Church, consists in pouring 1 pound
of the best carbolic acid of commerce (the
white crystallized) into 2 gallons cold distilled
water, taking care not to permit the whole of
the acid to enter into solution. "With a good
sample, if, after shaking repeatedly at inter-
vals, between 2 and 3 ounces of the acid re-
main at the bottom of the vessel used, this
will be a sufficient residue to hold and contain
all the impurities ; with bad samples, less wa-
ter must be used, and more acid. The watery
solution is to be syphoned off, and filtered, if
necessary, through fine filtering paper, till
perfectly clear. It is then placed in a tall
cylinder, and pure powdered common salt
added, with constant agitation, till it no longer
dissolves. On standing for a time, the greater
part of the carbolic acid will be found floating
as a yellow oily layer on the top of the saline
liquor, and merely requires to be removed to
be ready for use. As it contains 5 per cent,
or more of water, it does not generally crys-
tallize, but it may be made to do so by distill-
ing it from a little lime. The portion col-
lected has, at ordinary temperatures, and up
t.) 333° Fahr., scarcely any odor save a faint
one resembling that of geranium leaves. The
additio'.i of about 4 drops per fluid ounce of
the French oil of geranium will still further
mask the slight odor of the acid, and has an
additional advantage
crystallized product.
of liquefying the pure
The pure acid may be
a gargle, or in 25 parts of water for painting
the throat, or in 50 parts for the carbolic
spray. By this process it becomes sufficiently
deodorized for toilet purposes.
3920. Phosphoric Acid. This acid, in
its pure or anhydrous state, can only be ob-
tained by the direct combination of its ele-
ments, phosphorus and oxygen, 1 equivalent
of phosphorus combining with 5 of oxygen.
It consists of a white, flaky, extremely deli-
quescent powder, which, when fused and
cooled, assumes a vitreous appearance. It is
capable of assuming three separate conditions
in combination with water as a base; the
union of 1 equivalent of anhydrous acid with
1 equivalent of water produces monobasic or
glacial phosphoric acid, called also metaphos-
phoric acid ; 1 equivalent of anhydrous acid,
with 2 of water, gives bibasic or pyrophos-
plioric acid; 1 of anhydrous acid with 3 of
water forms tribasic, or commercial phos-
phoric acid. This last is the common form of
the acid. These three forms of the acid are
not pure phosphoric acid in different degrees
of dilution, as they have distinguishing char-
acteristics. Monobasic phosphoric acid coa-
gulates albumen, and gives white gelatinous
uncrystallizable precipitates with the soluble
salts of baryta, lime, and silver; the bibasic
does not coagulate albumen, and makes, when
neutralized only, a white precipitate with
nitrate of silver ; the tribasic does not affect
albumen, and, when neutralized, throws down
a yellow precipitate (phosphate of silver) from
nitrate of silver. Tribasic phosphoric acid
is the usual form under which phosphoric
acid combines with the bases to form PHOS-
PHATES.
3921. To Obtain Phosphoric Acid.
This is obtained by heating nitric acid in a
tubulated retort connected with a receiver;
small fragments of phosphorus are dropped
into the acid, singly and at intervals. As
soon as the phosphorus is dissolved, the heat
is increased, and the undecomposed acid dis-
tilled off. The residuum is then evaporated
to a syrupy consistence, and forms the phos-
phoric acid of commerce.
3922. To Obtain Hydrated or Glacial
Phosphoric Acid. Phosphoric acid (see
last receipt) is gradually heated to redness in
a platinum crucible, and the glacial acid ob-
tained by evaporation. Solid hydrated or
glacial phosphoric acid contains 89 per cent.
It is
sub-
stance, very soluble in water, yielding a solu-
tion exhibiting powerful acid properties. Its
concentrated solution has nearly the samo
properties as the solid acid ; its dilute solution
is not poisonous, and does not precipitate
albumen. (Coolcy.)
3923. Anhydrous Phosphoric Acid.
This is evolved by burning phosphorus in a
stream of dry air, or under a bell-jar, copious-
ly supplied with dry air. The product is
anhydrous phosphoric acid in snow-like flakes.
These must be collected immediately, and put
into a warm, dry, well-stoppered bottle. A
few seconds' exposure to the air causes the
anhydrous acid to deliquesce into a syrupy
liquid, its attraction for water being intense.
Its anhydrous state cannot be restored after
of real acid, and 11 per cent, of water,
a highly deliquescent, glassy-looking
dissolved in 230 parts of water, and used as I deliquescence or solution.
368
ACIDS.
3924. Dilute Phosphoric Acid. Mix
5 troy ounces nitric acid with ^ piut distilled
water in a porcelain capsule of the capacity
of 2 pints; add 6 drachms phosphorus and
invert over it a glass- funnel of such dimen-
sions that its rini may rest on the inside of
the capsule, near the surface of the liquid.
Place the capsule on a sand-bath, and apply
a moderate heat until the phosphorus is dis-
solved, and red vapors cease to rise. If the
reaction becomes too violent, add a little dis-
tilled water ; and if the red vapors cease to
be evolved before the phosphorus is all dis-
solved, gradually add nitric acid (diluted as
before) until the solution is effected. Remove
the funnel, continue the heat until the excess
of nitric acid is driven off, and a syrupy liquid,
free from odor and weighing 2 troy ounces,
remains. Mix this, when cold, with sufficient
distilled water to measure 20 fluid ounces, and
filter through paper.
Or: Dissolve 1 troy ounce glacial phos-
phoric acid in 3 fluid ounces distilled water ;
add 40 grains nitric acid, boil to a syrupy li-
quid, free from the odor of nitric acid, add dis-
tilled water to make np to 12£ fluid ounces,
and filter.
3925. Tests for the Purity of Phos-
phoric Acid. The TJ. S. Pharmacopeia
directs that an aqueous solution of the acid
should yield no precipitate with sulphuretted
hydrogen, showing the absence of metals ; it
should cause a white precipitate with chloride
of barium, soluble in excess of acid; and,
with an excess of ammonia, should cause only
a slight turbidness, proving the almost total
absence of earthy salts. If the presence
of arsenic is denoted by the tests for that
metal, it may be separated by boiling with
muriatic acid, so as to convert the arsenic
into a volatile chloride, which would escape
with vapors of the muriatic acid.
3926. Test for the Presence of Phos-
phoric Acid. Hydrochloric acid is added to
the solution to acid reaction, and afterwards
1 or 2 drops of a concentrated solution of ses-
quichloride of iron; a solution of acetate of
potassa is next added in excess, when a floc-
culent white precipitate (sesqui-phosphate of
iron) will bo found if phosphoric acid was
present in any form or combination in the
original liquor. Arsenious acid, if present,
should be removed by sulphuretted hydrogen
before applyiug the test. (Cooley.)
3927. Phosphorous Acid. This is pre-
pared by burning phosphorus under a bell-
glass with a very limited supply of air.
White and pulverulent. It is a powerful de-
oxidizing agent. With the bases it unites to
form PHOSPHITES.
3928. Hypophosphoric Acid. A
name erroneously given oy M. Dulong to a
mixture of phosphoric and phosphorous acids.
(Cooley.)
3929. Tartaric Acid. Tartaric acid
forms inodorous, sour, scarcely transparent
prisms, soluble in 2 parts of water at GO0,
and its own weight of boiling water. It
contains about 9g of combined water, fuses at
220° Fahr., boils at 280° ; and, at about 400°,
after losing i of its water, is converted into
tartralic acid. "With the bases it forms salts
called TARTRATES. Tartaric acid is chiefly em-
ployed in calico printing, and in medicine, as
a substitute for citric acid and lemon juice,
for the preparation of cooling drinks and saline
draughts.
3930. To Obtain Tartaric Acid. On
the small scale it is prepared as follows : Dis-
solve 4 pounds cream of tartar in 2 gallons
boiling water; add gradually 12 ounces 7
drachms chalk ; and, when the effervescence
ceases, add another like portion of chalk, dis-
solved in 2GA fluid ounces muriatic acid, dilu-
ted with 4 pints water ; collect the precipitated
tartrate of lime, and well wash it with water,
then boil it for 15 minutes in 8 pints 1 fluid
ounce dilute sulphuric acid; next filter, evap-
orate to the density 1.38, and set it aside to
crystallize. The crystals must be dissolved
and crystallized a second and a third time.
On the largo scale, the decomposition of the
tartar is usually effected in a copper boiler,
and that of the tartrate of lime in a leaden
cistern. This part of the process is often per-
formed by mere digestion for a few days, with-
out the application of heat. Leaden or stone-
ware vessels are used as crystallizers. Good
cream of tartar requires 26 per cant, of chalk,-
and 28.5 per cent, of dry chloride of calcium
for its perfect decomposition. Dry tartrate of
lime requires 75 per cent, of oil of vitriol to
liberate the whole of the tartaric acid. A
very slight excess of sulphuric acid may be
advantageously employed. Some manufac-
turers bleach the colored solution of the first
crystals by treating it with animal charcoal ;
but for this purpose the latter substance
should be first purified by digesting it in mu-
riatic acid, and afterwards by edulcorating it
with water, and exposing it to a dull red' heat
in a covered vessel. The general manage-
ment of this manufacture resembles that of
citric acid. (Cooley.)
3931. To Detect Tartaric Acid in
Citric Acid. Citric acid is sometimes adul-
terated with tartaric acid. This is readily de-
tected by adding a solution of carbonate of
potassa to a solution of the suspected acid ; if
tartaric acid be present, a crystalline precipit-
ate of bitartate of potassa (cream of tartar)
will bo found. A more delicate test is to di-
gest the suspected acid with hydrated sesqui-
oxide of iron in a test tube, and afterwards to
raise the heat slowly to the boiling point ; al-
lowing the excess of oxide to subside, decant
the clear liquid, and evaporate it to a syrupy
consistence. If the citnc acid was pure, the
liquid remains clear and of a fine red color;
the presence of only 1 per cent, of tartaric
acid renders it cloudy, and deposits tartrate of
the sesquioxidc. ( U. S. Dis. )
3932. Citric Acid. This is an agree-
able acid, cooling and antiseptic ; 20 grains of
citric acid are equivalent to 5 fluid drachms
lemon juice. "When used for making saline
draughts, it is preferable to use bicarbonate of
potassa as the neutralizing alkali. Their re-
spective saturating equivalents will be found
in lu>s. 80 and 81. "With the bases it forms
CITRATES.
3933. To Prepare Citric Acid. Add
4;j ounces chalk by degrees to 4 pints lemon
juice, heated, and mix; set by, that the pow-
der may precipitate ; afterwards pour oft' the
supernatant liquor. "Wash the precipitated
citrate of lime frequently with warm water;
then pour upon it 27£ fluid ounces diluted sul-
ACIDS.
369
phuric acid and 2 pints distilled "water, and
boil for 15 minutes ; press the liquor strongly
through a linen cloth, and filter it. Evapor-
ate the filtered liquor with a gentle heat, and
set it aside that crystals may lorni. To obtain
the crystals pure, dissolve them in water a
second and a third time ; filter each solution,
evaporate, and set it apart to crystallize. The
preparation of citric acid has become an im-
portant branch of chemical manufacture, from
the large consumption of this article in va-
rious operations in the arts. In conducting
this process some little expertness and care
are necessary to ensure success. The chalk
employed should be dry, and in fine powder,
and be added to the juice until it be perfectly
neutralized, and the quantity consumed must
be exactly noted. The precipitated citrate of
lime should be well washed with water, and
the sulphuric acid diluted with 6 or 8 times
its weight of water, poured upon it while still
warm, and thoroughly mixed with it. The
agitation must be occasionally renewed for 8 or
10 hours, when the dilute citric acid must be
poured off, and the residuum of sulphate of
lime thoroughly washed with warm water,
and the washings added to the dilute acid.
The latter must then be poured off from the
impurities that may have been deposited, and
evaporated in a leaden boiler, over the naked
fire, until it acquires a specific gravity of 1.13,
when the process must be continued at a
lower temperature until a pellicle appears
upon the surface, This part of the process
requires great attention and judgment, as, if
not properly conducted, the whole batch may
be carbonized and spoiled. At this point the
evaporation must be stopped, and the concen-
trated solution emptied into warm and 'clean
crystallizing vessels, set in a dry apartment,
where the thermometer does not fall below
temperate. At the end of 4 days the crystals
will be ready to remove from the pans, when
they must be well drained, redissolved in as
little water possible, and, after being allowed
to stand for a few hours to deposit impurities,
again evaporated and crystallized. When the
process has been well managed, the acid of
the second crystallization will usually be suffi-
ciently pure ; but if this be not the case, a
third, or even a fourth crystallization must bo
had recourse to. The mother liquors from
the several pans are collected together, and,
by evaporation, yield a second or third crop
of crystals obtained by evaporation as before.
Citric acid crystallizes with great case, but in
some cases, where all the citrate of lime has
not undergone decomposition by the sul-
phuric acid, a little of that salt is taken up
by the free citric acid, and materially ob-
structs the crystallization. This is best
avoided by exactly apportioning the quantity
of the sulphuric acid to that of the chalk
used, always remembering that it requires a
quantity of liquid sulphuric acid, containing
exactly 40 parts of dry acid, to decompose 50
parts of carbonate of lime. Commercial sul-
phuric acid is usually of the specific gravity
of 1.845; it will therefore take exactly 49
pounds of this acid for 50 pounds of chalk.
In practice it is found that a very slight ex-
cess of sulphuric acid is better than leaving
any citrate of lime undecomposed. The first
crop of crystals is called " brown citric acid/'
and is much used by the calico printers.
Sometimes a little nitric acid is added to the
solution of the colored crystals, for the pur-
pose of whitening them, but in this way a
minute quantity of oxalic acid is formed.
Good lemon juice yields fully 5 per cent, of
lemon acid, or 2 gallons yield about 1 pound
of crystals. If the imported citrate of lime
be used, a given quantity must be heated to
redness, and then weighed, when the percent-
age of lime present will be ascertained;
every 28 pounds of which will require 49
pounds of sulphuric acid of 1.845 (or a corres-
ponding quantity containing exactly 40 parts
of dry acid) for its complete decomposition.
3934. Tests for the Purity of Citric
Acid. "WTien pure, it does not yield a crys-
talline precipitate when added in excess to a
solution of carbonate of potassa ; such a pre-
cipitate indicates the presence of tartaric acid.
It is entirely soluble in water, and what is
thrown down by acetate of lead from this so-
lution, is entirely soluble in dilute nitric acid.
N"o salt of potassa, except the tartrate, yields
a precipitate with the aqueous solution. It is
entirely decomposed by heat ; added sparingly
to cold lime water, it does not render it tur-
bid, and when a few drops of a solution of
citric acid are added to lime water, a clear
liquid results, which, when heated, deposits a
white powder, soluble in acids without ef-
fervescence.
3935. Arsenious Acid. This is the
arsenic or white arsenic of commerce, im-
ported chiefly from Germany, also manufac-
tured in quantity in Cornwall, England. It
consists or large, glassy, colorless or yellowish-
white, semi-transparent cakes or porcelain-
like masses, which soon become opaque on
their exterior, and sometimes friable and
pulverulent. The transparent arsenic is
found to be more than three times as soluble
in water at 55° Fahr. than the opaque. In
taste it is slightly sweetish, with a slight
acidity and astringency, not perceived until
some minutes after being swallowed, hence
its dangerous character as a poison. Crude
arsenic is obtained, as a collateral product,
during the smelting' of cobalt ores. Pure
arsenic is obtained from the crude, by a
second sublimation in cast-iron vessels. The
arsenic, as imported, has usually been thus
purified; and, unless otherwise adulterated, j
is sufficiently pure for general purposes. It ,
is sometimes kept in fine powder, and in this
state is occasionally found adulterated with
powdered lime or chalk ; it is, therefore, bet-
ter to purchase it in the lump. The salts of
arsenious acid are called ARSENITES.
3936. Self -Detecting Arsenious
Acid. By adding a small quantity of any of
the following substances to ordinary white
arsenic, the mixture changes color when
mixed with liquids. This is proposed as a
method of preventing mistake in the use of
this poisonous article.
The addition of a small quantity of a mix-
ture of dry calomel and quicklime to the
arsenic turns black when mixed with a liquid.
A mixture of thoroughly dry sulphate of
iron and ferrocyanido of potassium turns it
blue.
Dry sulphate of iron and dry sulphate of
soda turns green.
370
ACIDS.
3937. Tests for the Presence of Ar-
senious Acid. A weak solution of ani-
monio-acetate of copper added to a solution
of white arsenic (arsenious acid) throws
down a grass green precipitate of arsenite of
copper (Scheele's green) This precipitate,
after being washed, is soluble in nitric acid,
and in ammonia; is turned a brownish-red
by a solution of sulphuretted hydrogen,
blood-red by ferrocyanide of potassium, and
yellow by nitrate of silver.
Arsenious acid in solution throws down a
yellow precipitate of arsenite of silver from
a solution of ammonio-nitrate of silver.
There arc a number of delicate tests em-
ployed for detecting the presence of arsenic
m organic matter, such as the contents of
the stomach or other viscera, all more or less
involving the preparation of the matter before
applying the tests, and requiring the manipu-
lation of an experienced analytical chemist.
A very susceptible test, and recommended by
Cooley for its simplicity, is as follows : A so-
lution of the suspected matter is strongly
acidulated with muriatic acid in the pro-
portion of 1 part muriatic acid to from 5 to 9
parts of the solution; this is boiled in a
porcelain or glass vessel containing bright
and clean metallic copper in the form of
sheet, gauze, or wire. In about 15 minutes, if
the solution be weak, or less, if strong,
presence of arsenic will be noted by the
characteristic iron-gray film of arsenic de-
posited on the surface of the copper. The
copper, having been carefully washed and
dned, may bo cut into small pieces and heated
in a test tube over a spirit lamp, when the
metallic arsenic is volatilized, and will be con-
densed either in metallic form or in crystals
of arsenious acid. This is known as Eensch's
test
3938. Arsenic Acid. An acid formed
by the combination of metallic arsenic with
oxygen. It is sour, reddens litmus, and
forms salts with the bases, which arc termed
ARSENIATES. By careful evaporation it may
be obtained under the form of small grains,
but usually has the consistence of syrup, be-
ing very deliquescent.
3939. To Obtain Arsenic Acid. Pour
6 parts of strong nitric acid on 1 part of white
arsenic (arsenious acid) in a glass vessel, and
distill until the solution acquires the consist-
ence of a syrup, then transfer it into a
platina crucible, and expose it for some time
to a faint dull red heat, to expel the nitric
acid. The addition of a little muriatic acid
facilitates the process.
3940. Tests for the Presenfce of Ar-
senic Acid. Sulphuretted hydrogen gives
a yellow precipitate ; nitrate of silver adde(3
to the solution of an arseniate gives a pre-
cipitate of a brick red color ; nitrate of lead
gives a white one, and the salts of copper a
uluish colored one. Pure lump sugar dis-
solved in an aqueous solution of arsenic acid,
becomes in a few hours of a reddish color, anc
afterwards of a magnificent purple. For
some test purposes it will be advisable to adc
sulphurous acid to the suspected liquor, anc
boil it for a short time, when the arsenic acid
will be reduced to arsenious acid, in which
stato it will be susceptible of more delicate
tests. (See No. 3937.)
3941. Manganesic Acid — also called
'crmanganic acid — may be obtained by mix-
ug 8 parts of binoxide of manganese with 7
>arts of chlorate of potassa, both in fine pow-
ler, adding 10 parts of hydrate of potassa,
dissolved in a small quantity of water, evap-
irating to dryness, powdering, exposing the
>owder to a low red heat in a platinum cruci-
)le, dissolving the mass in a large quantity of
water, decanting, evaporating, and crystalliz-
ng. These crystals are permanganate of po-
tassa, from which the acid may be obtained
by conversion into permanganate of baryta,
and by careful decomposition by dilute sul-
phuric acid. (Gregory.) It has a fine red
lolor, bleaches, and is rapidly decomposed by
organic matter. It unites with some of the
jases to form PERMANGANATES.
3942. Benzoic Acid. This is also
called flowers of benzoin or benjamin. It has
;he form of white crystalline needles of a
silky lustre, possessing an agreeable odor.
Benzoic acid fuses at 230° Fahr., is volatile
when heated, dissolves sparingly in cold wa-
ter, with less difficulty in boiling water, and
very freely in alcohol. Its salts are called
BENZOATES.
3943. To Obtain Benzoic Acid. Put
oarsely triturated benzoin into an iron pot
with a flat bottom, whose diameter is from 8
to 9 inches; the benzoin forming therein a
layer of from 1 to 2 inches in depth. The
open end of the pot is then to be covered with
a sheet of soft and loose blotting-paper, which
must bo attached to the rim with paste. A
cone, formed with strong and thick .paper,
(cartridge paper), is then to be capped over
the top of the pot, including the blotting
paper; and this is also to be attached with
paste and string. The apparatus, thus pre-
pared, should then bo placed on the sand-
bath, and exposed from 4 to 6 hours to a
gentle heat. After this lapse of time, it may
be removed from the sand-bath, inverted, and
the string detached, when beautiful white
needles, of a silky lustre, possessing the
agreeable odor of benzoic acid, will bo found
in the paper cone.
3944. To Obtain Anhydrous Benzoic
Acid. Add oxychloride of phosphorus to an
excess of beuzoate of soda ; agitate together,
and wash the mixture with boiling water.
The anhydrous benzoic acid sinks like a
heavy oil, and crystallizes on cooling.
3945. Chromic Acid. This consists of
acicular crystals of a crimson-red color and
an acid metallic taste, deliquescent, and very
soluble in water, forming an orange-yellow
solution. With the bases this acid forms
CHROMATES. Chromate of lead forms the
pigment known as chrome-yellow.
3946. To Obtain Chromic Acid. Take
10 measures of a saturated cold solution of
bichromate of potassa, mix with it 15 mea-
sures sulphuric acid, and allow the mixture to
cool. The chromic acid is deposited in crys-
tals, which, after decanting the mother liquid,
are placed on a tile to drain, covered with a
bell glass.
3947. Hydrocyanic Acid. This is also
called prussic acid, and consists of a thin,
colorless, and volatile liquid, having a strong
odor of peach kernels. It boils at 79° Fahr.
and solidifies at 45°; its specific gravity is
A CIDS.
371
.7058. It constitutes one of the most deadly
poisons known. Its salts are HYDROCYAN-
ATES and METALLIC CYANIDES. Prussic acid,
even when dilute, is very liable to sponta-
neous decomposition, and this speedily- occurs
when it is exposed to the light. To promote
its preservation, it is usual to surround the
bottles containing it with thick purple paper,
and to keep them inverted in an obscure sit-
uation. The addition of a very small quan-
tity of muriatic acid renders it much less
liable to change, and is generally made by
manufacturers for that purpose.
3948. To Obtain Anhydrous Prussic
Acid. Pure crystallized ferrocyanide of po-
tassium, 15 parts ; water and sulphuric acid.
of each 9 parts ; distill in a glass retort into a
well-cooled receiver, containing chloride of
calcium in coarse fragments, 5 parts; stop
the process as soon as the chloride in the re-
ceiver is perfectly covered by the distilled
fluid, and decant the acid into a bottle fur-
nished with a good stopper. Keep it in the
dark, with the bottle inverted.
3949. Dilute Prussic Acid. Mix 41
grains muriatic acid with 1 fluid ounce dis-
tilled water, add 50| grains cyanide of silver,
and shake together in a well stopped phial.
When the precipitate has subsided, pour off the
clear dilute acid and keep for use. (See No.
3947.) (U. S. Ph.)
3950. Tests for the Presence of Prus-
sic Acid. It is distinguished by a strong
odor of bitter almonds.
Neutralized by potash, and tested with a
solution of sulphate or tincture of iron, it
gives a blue precipitate, or one turning blue
on the addition of dilute sulphuric or muriatic
acid. This test may be applied by spreading
a single drop of solution of potassa over the
bottom of a white saucer or porcelain capsule,
and inverting it over another vessel of the
same size containing the matter under exam-
ination. After 2 to 5 minutes remove the
upper capsule ; add to the potassa upon it, a
single drop of a solution of sulphate or tinc-
ture of iron, and expose it to the air for a few
seconds. Next add 1 or 2 drops of dilute
sulphuric acid, when a blue color will bo de-
veloped if hydrocyanic acid is present in the
matter tested.
Nitrate of silver gives a white clotty pre-
cipitate, soluble in boiling nitric acid; and
which, when dried and heated in a test tube,
evolves fumes of cyanogen, which burn with
a violet or bluish colored flame. A watch
glass, moistened with this test and inverted
over matter containing hydrocyanic acid, be-
comes opaque and white from the formation
of cyanide of silver.
Liebig's test is considered the most delicate.
Moisten a watch- gkiss or porcelain capsule
with 1 or 2 drops of yellow hydrosulphuret of
ammonia ; invert it over the matter as before,
and after a few miuutes dry it with a gentle
heat. A glass rod dipped in a solution of a
persalt or sesquisalt of iron, drawn over the
glass, will form a blood-red streak if the
smallest quantity of hydrocyanic acid is pres-
ent. (Coolei/.)
3951. Test for the Strength of Prus-
sic Acid. For estimating the strength of
the commercial acid the following plan, pro-
posed by Dr. Ure, will be found very exact !
and convenient. To 100 grains, or any other
convenient quantity of the acid contained in
a small phial, add in succession, small quan-
tities of the peroxide of mercury in fine
powder, till it ceases to bo dissolved on agita-
tion. The weight of the red precipitate taken
up being divided by 4, gives a quotient repre-
senting the quantity of real prussic acid
present. By weighing out beforehand, on a
piece of paper or a watch-glass, 40 or 50 grains
of the peroxide, the residual weight of it
shows at once the quantity expended. The
operation may be always completed in five
minutes, for the red precipitate dissolves as
rapidly in the dilute prussic acid, with the aid
of slight agitation, as sugar dissolves in wa-
ter. Should the presence of muriatic acid be
suspected, then the difference in the volatility
of prussiate and muriate of ammonia may be
had recourse to with advantage; the former
exhaling at a very gentle heat, the latter re-
quiring a subliming temperature of about
300° Fahr. After adding ammonia in slight
excess to the prussic acid, if we evaporate to
dryness at a heat of 212°, wo may infer from
the residuary sal-ammoniac the quantity of
muriatic acid present. Every grain of sal-
ammoniac corresponds to .6822 grains of mu-
riatic acid.
3952. Cyanic Acid. A compound of
cyanogen and oxygen only known in its
hydrated state in combination with 1 equiva-
lent of water. It combines with bases to
form CYANATES. "When in contact with wa-
ter for a few hours it suffers decomposition,
and is converted into bicarbonate of ammonia.
It cannot be preserved for any length of time,
as it soon passes spontaneously into a white,
opaque, solid mass, to which the name of
cyamelide has been given, which may be re-
converted into cyanic acid by distillation. It
reddens litmus strongly.
3953. To Obtain Cyanic Acid. Distill
dry cyanuric acid, or cyamelide, in a retort,
and collect the product in a well-cooled re-
ceiver. It is also formed when cyanogen
is transmitted over carbonate of potassa
heated to redness ; a cyanate of potassa re-
sults.
Or : Pass a current of sulphuretted hydro-
gen gas through water in which cyanate of
silver is diffused. The sulphuretted hydro-
gen must not be passed so long as to decom-
pose all the cyanate of silver; for then the
cyanic acid is converted into other products
by the excess of the sulphuretted hydrogen.
3954. Hydroferridcyanic Acid.
This is sometimes written liydroferricyanic
acid, and is a compound of ferridcyanogen
and hydrogen. With the oxides of metals
this acid forms FERRIDCYANIDES ; the ferrid-
cyanide of potassium is the red prussiate of
potash used in the arts.
3955. To Obtain Hydroferridcyanic
Acid. Prepared by decomposing recently
precipitated ferridcyanide of lead by sul-
phuretted by hydrogen, or by sulphuric acid
carefully added. A yellow solution is thus
obtained, which yields a deep brown powder
when evaporated by heat, or yellow Crystals
by spontaneous evaporation.
3956. Hydroferrocyanic Acid. A
peculiar compound of cyanogen, hydrogen,
and iron, discovered by M. Po'rret, and called
It consists of
white crystal*, soluble in
Arid. It maybe
mfliuVsolutiou
out of contact with tbe
muriatic add added in excuw. Themix-
tur« is th«u agitated with afittfe ether, which
tcparatot the add; the latter is collected by
iteration, and dried.
I Lactic Acid. This is a limpid.
fiquid, colorless or of a paw wine
color, with a slight odor and very sour taste,
R is feund m sour milk, and coma other ani-
malftaH^ and msev««al vegetable jukes. **K
penally in that of beet-root. It unites with
U^tefenaiACTAtm.
To Ofctam Lactic Arid.
of
3M4. Perchloric Acid. A eotatfes*
Kqttid oT about IM speeifi* gravity, whieh
fumes sfichtly in tk* air, attract moisture*
and distills unchanged at about 39F Fahr.
With bases it forms pntcauv
396S. To Obtain Perchloric Arid.
To finely powdered perchlorate of potass*
n a retort,, add about £ its weight
^j sulphuric add, previously diluted
an equal weight of water. At about
vapors of pwhlonci add pass
ov^er and condense in the receiver. (tVMwy.)
US* organic matter should be used as a lute
forthejointsofthei
balk;
.
aod filter, and On* satwate it
Tbk coBTHta tb« krtic
Kfiltend anla aad]»e-
cnttated bToxafie Mid, vbidkfbravs dowu
•oahteof Inteand »tsfn» tbe hetia and.
cal is agam fiitercd, and tbe filtrate
of a solatia* of netfe and, containing
Sext nnautaata tha solution to a
, and treat it with alcohol,
and and precipitates all tbe
The solution bfinalrr filtered
and the lactic and obtained pura by d»
affthe alcohol (F.&XK*,)
• •••i** ••» . _ » _».» *riiK «
strictly fcudri.
of hydrogen and tnorine. Its
name time at a low beat,
it is converted into ptarmmuKe or Jf*m*ri€
•na; and when quickly distilled, it yields
«K»* while fumark add isj ~'
s." The wefl known mineral. jUwr-
*rm*, is a ftaoude cf calcium. Fluoric and
readily dissolves glass and sttka, hence it is
t lead, saver, platinum,, or
it a a*
in
exposed to tbe air. and
u
fhwr-gaarwith twice its weight ofotfof vitriol
m a leaden, or better, a liver alembic, the
pipe of whkh fits into a bottle of the
matt-rial, •iiwnilai with lee. But as it is
ly reauired in a diluted state, water
ia weight to the spar may be put into
the receiver. Grant care must be taken, as
the arid, both in 3a gnawua and Bquid farm,
Chloric Arid. This is a yellow
ish fiquid, tmnltiug fike nitric add; it eete
fire to paper or other dry organic matter. It
BacouqMandofn^knnttanil«xyg«n,and in
908SL To Obtain Ghloric Arid. Bn-
aatro cttoeate of baryta in 16 times its weigh
of water; thmattdiratesciphnrieadd until
all the baryta be precipitated as sulphate.
"I by
eraputatian to a tbia, ofly onmamtanf < ,
Bquid add with oU of vitriol at
a gentle heat, crystals of perchloric arid will
be deposited on the neek of the retort and in
the receiver. These crystals fuse at 113?
and are very dehquescent. (Jtoatik.)
ft. Butyric Acid. A thin, colorless,
Squid, soluble la water and alcohol;
fie gravity .963; boils at SB^Puhr. It
maybe procured from thebutyrate of mag-
aesm by adding a little sulphuric add in quan-
tity not quite snffident to decompose the whole
of the butyrate used; filter and distill the
dear liquor, when the product will be butyric
and, from which, the water may be removed
b£ chloride of calcium. It forms teferafe*
nth some of the bases, f »Sw .«•. lCJ*.i
3907. Malic Arid. Mafic and it rery
soluble in water, sfightry defiquescent, has a
pleasant acidulous taste, and, when neutral-
•Me add, MAIXJLTCS. Take the juke of the
fruit of the mountain ash, inunediatety after
it baa tanned red, but still unripe; heat it to
the boiling point, skim, filter, nearly neu-
•e with ammonia, and predpitate with
a solution of 1 part of acetate of lead to every
irts of juke; filter, and again predpitate
nitrate of lead; allow the whole to stand
until it forms a mass of crystals, then well
wvh. dry. powder, suspend in water, and de-
nse by a current of sulphuretted hydro-
gen; again filter, nentrafixe with ammonia,
decolor with animal charcoal, a second time
predpitate with nitrate of lead, and decom-
the resulting nitrate cf lead fay nlphur-
lastiy, filter, evaporate and
tadtfcr.) Mr. Everett
of the leafstalks of ,
as a source of mafic add. One
of this juke contains
grs. of dry mafic and. The stalks snoura
be peeled before preeang out the juke, as the
cuticle contains much color. Everett's pro-
eossis as follows: Meutrafiae with hydrate of
fin*, boil, filter, precipitate with nitrate of
tend, aUov it to stand for a few hours, boil,
cool, filter, decompose the precipitate with
sulphuric add. avoiding excess, throw down
the excess of lead from tbe supernatant por-
tion with sulphuretted hydrogen, evaporate,
and erystalfiae. Mafic add is also obtained
from the juke of apples and several other
sorts of fruit.
ALKALIES
3968. lod:.-. A.rl/1 I
I 9*j gen,
ItH
lofiod-
with the
very soluble in
i with inflammable bod-
ies fike the nitrates and chlorates,
9009. To Obtain IbdJe Acid, Bis-
solve iodate of
••denote excess, boa for
the ssintion aside to erystaffiie.
Or: Iodine,! part
ted) nitric acid, 4 parts; BOX, awl apply a
' beatnntfltbVeolorofthe ~
• :~--^
,
the rasidunm in the open air at »
of about SiP Fahr. When, by attracting
meisfame, ft has acquired the r oueisf fur e of «
•Trap, pot it into a place
tme-js higher and the air drier, when/in a
Put
few dars, rery fine white crystals of
boidal shape win form,
Mr. JL CoonelFi method is as foDows
50 grains of iodine into a large, tall
addl ounce of faring nitric add, boO,
as flie *^''w sublimes and eondensas on the
of the flask, continually wash it
with the add. Continue this
i of the iodine rents
: -.- :;-.-: - -.-. .-..-.-... :
dish, and eraporate to
and again evaporate titt afi the mtrous add is
3970. Hydriodie Acid. Thsisi
pound of iodine and hydrogen. In gs
form it is colorless, fumes m the air, i
rery soluble in water. In liquid form,
strong, it is rety fiaMe to change, and
be kept in wefl stoppered bottles. In
nation with bases it forms HTDDOOATES.
be easily formed by
j the add wnh tbeoxidesorhydn
of the bases, or mute economically, by act
on the bases in water, with iodine. When the
hydriodates are deprired of their water, they
are true uwnns; that is,
tions with iodine. (See 3T0. £5l)
3971. To Obtain Hydriodie
a little
„.
by driodie •adwffl be erotod,
— ~~ —
wai he formed.
in a retort, 9
, when
: acid wfll he evolred.
3972. Dilute Hydriodie Acid.
1 troy ounce iodine in fine powder. Mix 90
r: - "-• ' :' "._ .- .-.-i--. ~ '.:. '
tflled water in a tall
bottle, and pass into
P^fit^» »fiA f*m n»fil tt»m color of the
entirely dimpptsn, and a turbid liquid re-
mains, tfext, jsaduallr add the
the
.: :. :.: :.-i
eobrless, and decant it into a
ichitmust nearly fin ; boO it un-
to m off the odor of hydmnm-
fhprie arid, and filter thrnnch
I:--.: .-
-
bring the filtered liquid to 6
JEeep it in a weD-stoppend bottle.
BLJ
±\_ thepropertrof msjludiiii
«Mmtam« with them m fixed
low tormerie paper brown.
aflraBrs ara soda, potassa,
first has heencaued the
the regetable, and tike und the
alkali; bet time distinetion is now
Sooa and notnssa hare also been
fixed alkafea, from their pi imimi an lathe
fire. The alkanes are i
second
The salts of the alkafies, both
bonated, are generally fieety
The methods for ascertamms; thei
f and their sohrtiont wit be
Alkafimetry, Vo. 83L
3974. Potanrnv Pare potash (n
Mash of commerce, which is an im**:
mate of pursasaX is tibe oride of
ttoeevrs in two forms, mmkpanms and Iw-
term potmA •pplin to the
3975.
puM*
CIH lustre, an
hmni nm
obtained bythei
hotdtTair. ^
89Ff&. Hydrate of Potauan* Hydxated
or eamfHe pottm, when perfectly pure, m
white, soHdJjnpysomhjte inV«ter anaia at
cohoL rery defiauescent* and eorjmsire. To
•tamper
feumWi
Pour Om
cold, put it
374
ALKALIES.
3981. Ammonia. Pure ammonia is an
incondensable colorless gas, possessing great
pungency and acridness, and powerful alka-
fine^properties. "Water readily absorbs about
500 times its volume of this substance, and in
this state forms strong liquid ammonia,
which, when much more dilute, is popularly
known as spirits of hartshorn, or water of
ammonia. As usually met with in the form
of a semi-crystalline whitish mass, commonly
called smelling salts, it is combined with car-
bonic acid and water, forming a sesquicar-
bonate of this base. According to the theory
of Berzelius, ammonia should be the oxide of
ammonium, a supposed but undiscovered
metal. Its presence can always be detected
by its pungent odor.
3982. To Obtain Ammonia. Mix un-
slacked lime with an equal weight of sal-am-
moniac, both dry and in fine powder ; intro-
duce the mixture into a glass retort, and join
the beak by a collar of India-rubber to a glass
tube about 18 inches long, which must lie
horizontally, and have its beak beut up ready
to be placed under a glass jar, on the shelf of
a mercurial pneumatic trough. Heat being
applied by means of a spirit-lamp, and the air
contained in the apparatus having been ex-
pelled, the gas may be collected for use.
Ammonia cannot be dried by means of chlo-
ride of calcium.
3983. Litbia. This is the oxide of lith-
ium ; is caustic, alkaline, and sparingly solu-
ble in water. One of its most remarkable
properties is its power of corroding platinum.
In the form of the hydrate it is white and
translucent, does not deliquesce, but absorbs
carbonic acid and becomes opaque. It is to
be obtained from various minerals, and is also
found in some mineral waters ; among which
is that of the Gettysburg spring. Pure lithia
may be obtained by decomposing sulphate of
lithia by acetate of baryta, and by expelling
the acetic acid from the filtered solution by
heat.
3984. Tests for Lithia. It colors the
flame of alcohol containing it a carmine red.
It is distinguished from potassa and soda by
its phosphate and carbonate being only spar-
ingly soluble in water; from baryta, strontia,
and lime, by forming cry stallizable and soluble
salts with sulphuric or oxalic acid ; and from
magnesia, by the solution of its carbonate ex-
hibiting an alkaline reaction.
3985. Baryta. This alkaline earth is
the oxide of barium, and is found abundantly
in the form of native sulphate and carbonate
of baryta. "With the acids it forms salts
which are all more or less white ; except the
Bulphate, they are soluble in water, or in
dilute muriatic acid, and are extremely poi-
sonous.
3986. To Obtain Pure Baryta. Ignite
pure crystallized nitrate of baryta in a capa-
cious porcelain crucible, until red vapors
cease to be evolved. This forms a grayish
white mass or powder, which, on the, addition
of water, slacks like lime, but with the evolu-
tion of more heat.
3987. To Obtain Hydrated Baryta.
It may be precipitated from a solution of
either nitrate or chloride of barium, by adding
to it a solution of pure potassa or soda, col-
lecting and drying the precipitate.
It is obtained in crystals, by boiling a
strong solution of sulphuret 01 barium with
successive portions of black oxide (protoxide)
of copper, until it ceases to give a black pre-
cipitate with a salt of lead. The liquid, after
filtration, yields crystals of hydrate of baryta
on cooling.
3988. Test for Baryta. Its solutions
give an immediate clear white precipitate
with dilute sulphuric acid, which is insoluble
in both acids and alkalies.
3989. Strontia. An alkaline earth, the
oxide of a metal called strontium. It greatly
resembles baryta. Hydrate of strontia is
freely soluble in boiling water, and the satura-
ted solution deposits crystals on co'oling. The
solution exhibits an alkaline reaction, and,
like baryta, is precipitated white by sulphuric
acid and the alkaline sulphates and carbon-
ates. It is distinguished from baryta by its
inferior solubility and by its soluble salts giv-
ing a red tinge to flame, while the salts of
baryta impart a yellow tinge. The salts of
strontia may all be prepared by dissolving the
native carbonate in the respective acids. The
nitrate is the only one met with in com-
merce, and is employed to form colored fire-
works.
3990. Magnesia. An alkaline earth,
the oxide of the metal magnesium, in the form
of a very light, white, odorless and tasteless
powder, almost insoluble in cold and boiling
water. It slowly absorbs carbonic acid from
the atmosphere. "With the acids it forms
salts, most of which may be made by tho
direct solution of the earth, or its hydrajte or
carbonate. It dissolves in hydrochloric acid
without effervescence. Neither bicarbonate
of potassa nor chloride of barium throws
down anything from the solution. It turns
turmeric paper brown when moistened.
3991. To Obtain Magnesia. Export
carbonate of magnesia iu a crucible to a full
red heat for 2 hours, or till the powder sus-
pended in water does not effervesce on tho
addition of muriatic acid. On the large scale,
covered crucibles, made of porous earthen-
ware, ai'e employed as the containing vessels,
and tho heat is applied by placing them ill a
sort of furnace or oven heated with coke.
3992. Test for Magnesia. Magnesia
is precipitated as a bulky white hydrate, by
pure alkalies; and as a bulky white carbonate,
by the carbonates of potassa and soda. Both
the above precipitates dissolve in nitric and
muriatic acid, forming salts which are very
deliquescent, and soluble in alcohol.
Solutions of magnesian salts are not preci-
pitated by the alkaline sulphates or sulphuric
acid, nor, when very dilute, by oxalate of
ammonia. By these tests it may be distin-
guished and separated .from lime. These
tests distinguish it from the other earths, and
its insolubility in alkaline solutions marks its
difference from alumina.
3993. Lime. A highly acrid, alkaline
and caustic earth, less insoluble in cold than
in hot water. It is the oxide of calcium.
When heated to a high degree, it becomes in-
tensely luminous, and is well known in use as
the calcium light.
3994. To Obtain Lime. Lime, or quick-
lime, is obtained by exposing limestone, or
chalk, which are carbonates of lime, to a red
ALKALOIDS.
heat. Shell-lime is got in the same manner
from the shells of the oyster and other shell-
fish. "When sprinkled with water, heat is gen-
erated, and the lime, combining with the water,
crumbles down into a powder, which is hy-
drate of lime, or slacked lime.
3995. Tests for Lime. The alkaline
carbonates, phosphates, oxalates, and sul-
phates, occasion white precipitates in solutions
of lime. The precipitates occasioned by the
first three tests are soluble in dilute nitric or
muriatic acid ; that by the last is insoluble in
those menstrua, but soluble in solution of
salt, and not reprecipitated by dilute sulphuric
acid.
Oxalate of ammonia or potassa is the most
delicate test of lime. If the substance under
examination be a solid, dissolve it in muriatic
acid, filter, evaporate to dryness, redissolve
in water, and test as above. All the soluble
salts of lime tinge the flame of alcohol of an
orange color, but this may be confounded
with the color produced by the salts of
strontia.
Substances of a vegeta-
^t*. ble origin, analogous to the alkaline
bases, iu which the medicinal activity of the
plants iii which they are found appear to re-
side. ( Cooleij. ) Among the natural organic
bases, or alkaloids, the following are the
principal, as enumerated by Professor Fownes.
3997. Morphine or Morphia. This is
the chief active principle of opium. The
morphia of commerce is a white crystalline
powder; but when crystallized in alcohol,
forms brilliant, prismatic, transparent, and
colorless crystals, which turn nitric acid red.
In powder, unlike strychnine, it is fusible
without decomposition, and strongly decom-
poses iodic acid. It is insoluble in ether,
scarcely soluble in water, and freely soluble
in alcohol. Potassa and ammonia precipi-
tate morphia from the solutions of its salts.
3998. To Find the Percentage of
Morphia in Opium. An excellent process
for ascertaining the quality of opium is to
boil au infusion of 100 grains opium with 25
grains quicklime, made into a milk with wa-
ter; to filter while hot, saturate with a dilute
hydrochloric acid, and to precipitate the
morphia by ammonia. After expelling any
excess of ammonia by heat, the precipitate is
collected, dried, and weighed; the weight in
grains will nearly represent the percentage of
morphia in the opium.
3999. Narcotine. An alkaloid found
in the insoluble portion of opium, and forms
small, colorless, brilliant crystals, which give
to nitric acid an orange tint.
4000. Codeine, or Codeia. Obtained
from hydrochlorate of morphia, in colorless,
transparent, eight-sided crystals, which do not
color nitric acid red.
4001. Thebaine, or Paramorphine.
This is also obtained from opium iu colorless
needles like those of narcotine. It does not
color nitric acid red, and is much less soluble
in water thau codeine.
4002. Cinchonine, or Cinchonia. This
is the active principle of Peruvian bark, con-
tained in the largest quantity in the pale bark.
It crystallizes in small, brilliant, transparent,
375
four-sided prisms, insoluble in ether. Cin-
chonicine and tinchonidine aro other varie-
ties of this alkaloid.
4003. Quinine, or Quinia. This is also
obtained from Peruvian bark, being found
in largest quantity in the yellow variety of
the bark. It crystallizes in small white nee-
dles. It may be distinguished from cinchonine
by the form of its crystals, and its solubility
in ether.
4004. Quinoidine, or Amorphous Quinine,
is a yellow or brown resinous mass, identical
in composition with quinine. Quinicine and
quinidinc are also varieties of quinine. (See
Nos. 4025, <fc.)
4005. Strychnine, or Strychnia. This
is an alkaloid contained in nux vomica, and
some other vegetable substances. Crystal-
lizes in small, brilliant, eight-sided crystals,
insoluble in absolute alcohol, and slightly
soluble in water. It suffers decomposition
on fusing, and does not decompose iodic
acid ; it may be thus distinguished from mor-
phine.
4006. Brucine, or Brucia. Is ob-
tained from the same sources as strychnine,
and resembles it in many respects, but is
readily soluble in all strengths of alcohol, and
insoluble in water. Brucine turns nitric acid
red, which becomes violet on the addition of
protochloride of tin.
4007. Veratrine, or Veratria. The
alkaloid principle of cevadilla seeds, and of
white hellebore. "When pure, it is a white
powder ; but as usually met with, the powder
is yellowish or greenish-white, insoluble in
water.
4008. Colchicine. Extracted from the
seeds of the common meadow saffron ; has
similar properties to veratrine, but is crystal-
line, and soluble in water.
4009. Harmaline. A substance form-
ing yellowish prismatic crystals, obtained
from the Peganum Harmala, a plant abound-
ing in southern Eussia. By oxidation it
yields Harmine, a fine red dye-stuff, also pos-
sessing basic properties.
4010. Theine, or Caffeine. This is an
alkaloid principle extracted from tea, coffee,
Paraguay tea, <fec. It forms in tufts of white
silky needles.
4011. Theobromine. A white crystal-
line powder obtained from the cacao-nuts
from which chocolate is prepared. Its proper-
ties are somewhat similar to theine.
4012. Xanthine. A white powder,
which may be obtained from guanine, which
it resembles in its properties. It dissolves
easily in ammonia or potash.
4013. Creatine. This alkaloid, called
by some Icreatine, is a crystallizable substance
obtained from the juice of the muscular fibre
of animals. It forms brilliant, colorless pris-
matic crystals. Creatine is a neutral body
combining with neither acids nor alkalies.
By the action of strong acids it is converted
into creatinine, a powerful organic base,
with a strong alkaline reaction, and forming
crystallizable salts with acids. Creatine, treat-
ed by boiling with a solution of baryta, pro-
duces Sarcosine.
4014. Sarcine. This base is a constitu-
ent of the flesh of animals. It forms in
delicate white microscopic needles, soluble
376
ALKALOIDS.
with difficulty iu cold "water, easily in boiling
water. It is obtained from the same source
as creatine. (See No. 4013.)
4015. Guanine. A base obtained from
guano. It is a colorless, crystalline powder,
insoluble in water, alcohol, ether or ammonia.
By treating guanine with muriatic acid and
chlorate of potassium, guanidine is obtained
in colorless crystals, readily soluble in water
and alcohol.
Guanine, Sarcine, and Xanthine greatly re-
semble one another.
4016. Berberine. An alkaloid crystal-
lizing in fine yellow needles slightly soluble
in water, extracted from Barberry root.
4017. Pipeline. An alcoholic extract
of pepper forming colorless or yellowish crys-
tals. Insoluble in water.
4018. Conine, or Conia. An alkaloid ex-
tract of hemlock, in the form of a volatile,
oily liquid. It evolves an odor of hemlock
on being moistened with a solution of po-
tassa.
4019. Nicotine, or Nicotia. This is
also a volatile, oily, acrid liquid, soluble in
water, ether, alcohol, and oils. Nicotine,
moistened with a solution of potassa, evolves
a strong odor of tobacco.
4020. Sparteine. An alkaloid obtained
from broom, also a volatile, oily liquid.
Conine, nicotine, and sparteine are similar in
character, being very poisonous, possessing
strong alkaline reaction, and forming crystal-
liable salts with the acids.
4021. Salicine. A white, crystalline
substance, found in the bark and leaves of
several kinds of poplar and willow ; but most
abundantly in the white willow and the as-
pen. It is obtained by the careful evapora-
tion of an infusion in cold water.
4022. To Obtain Alkaloids. Some of
these substances require special processes for
extracting them from the substances in which
they are found, but the following methods
will apply for general purposes :
"When the base is insoluble in water, non-
volatile, and existing in the plant in an insol-
uble form. Boil or macerate the bruised
plant in water acidulated with muriatic acid,
niter, neutralize the acid with an alkali, (am-
monia, lime, or magnesia), and collect the
precipitate, which must be purified by reso-
lution in dilute acid, digestion with tiuimal
charcoal, and subsequent crystallization or
precipitation by an alkali ; or the first precip-
itate may bo purified by dissolving it repeat-
edly in alcohol.
When the base is insoluble in water, and
non-volatile, but existing in the plant in a
soluble state. Boil or macerate in hot water
as before ; filter and precipitate by adding an
alkali ; purify as last.
When the base is soluble in water, and
non-volatile. Make an infusion with a dilute
acid (muriatic); concentrate by a gentle
heat ; treat the liquor with potassa and
ether (conjointly) ; decant and evaporate.
When the base is both soluble iu water and
volatile. The vegetable or its extract may
be mixed with potassa and distilled; the
product, neutralized with oxalic or sulphuric
acid, carefully evaporated to dryuess, and
digested in alcohol, and this solution agitated
with potassa and ether; the ethereal solu-
tion thus formed, if carefully evaporated,
leaves the base nearly pure. It may be
further purified by cautious distillation.
4023. Tests for Distinguishing Al-
kaloids. Perchloride of gold is a decisive
test of certain vegetable alkalies. The follow-
ing are the colors of the precipitates which it
produces with the salts of the annexed alkalies
dissolved in water ; quinine, buff-colored ;
cinchonine, sulphur-yellow; morphine, yel-
low, then bluish, and lastly, violet; in this
last state the gold is reduced, and the precip-
itate is insoluble in water, alcohol, the caustic
alkalies, aud sulphuric, nitric, or hydrochloric
acids; brucine, milk, coffee, and then choco-
late-brown ; strychnine, canary -yellow ; rara-
trine, slightly greenish-yellow. All these
precipitates, with the exception mentioned,
are very soluble in alcohol, insoluble in ether,
and slightly soluble in water. Among the
reactions of chloride of gold, there are two
which appear to be especially important:
they are those which occur with morphine
and brucine; these are sufficiently marked to
prevent these alkalies from being mistaken for
each other, and also yield pretty good char-
acteristics for distinguishing brucine from
strychnine.
4024. Alkaloids Detected by Picric
Acid. Eager has found that this acid pre-
cipitates various alkaloids from their solu-
tions, such as brucine, strychnine, veratrine,
quinine, cinchonine, and some alkaloids of
opiurn. Morphine and atropine, however, are
precipitated only from neutral and concentra-
ted solutions, and the precipitate dissolves
pretty easily in water. Glucosides, casein,
and pseudo-morphine resist the action of the
picric acid.
4025. Quinometry. The method of
estimating the quantity of quinine in cinchona
bark and the salts obtained from it. • The
following tests give very accurate results in
examining the bark ; and the salts are tested
in the same way, but the result is not quite
so accurate, as it includes any quinidinc (sec
No. 4028) that may be present in the quinine ;
and makes, therefore, the apparent richness
of the sample greater than it really is.
(Cooley.)
4026. Test for the Strength of Qui-
nine. Make a decoction of 100 grains of bark
in 2 fluid ounces distilled water ; filter, and
precipitate with a sufficient quantity of a con-
centrated solution of carbonate of soda. Heat
the fluid until the precipitate is dissolved ;
and when cold, dry aud weigh it. It should
weigh 2 grains or more, and dissolve entirely
in a solution of oxalic acid. To render the
result strictly accurate, the bark should be
exhausted with ether, and the mixed solu-
tions evaporated. Salts, of quinine may be
tested in the Fame manner. (Cooley.)
4027. Test for the Percentage of
Quinine in Bark, &c. Exhaust 100 grains
of bark with acidulated water; filter the so-
lution, and render it alkaline with liquor of
potassa; next agitate it with about $ its
volume of chloroform, and allow it to repose
a short time ; the chloroform, ho-lding the al-
kaloid in solution, sinks to the bottom of the
vessel in a distinct stratum, from which the
supernataut liquid must be separated by de-
cantation ; the chloroformic solution, either
GAS.
377
at once or after being washed with a little
cold water, is allowed to evaporate, and the
weight of the residuum in grains gives the
percentage of richness of the sample. Ether
may be used instead of chloroform, but the
ethereal solution will form the upper stratum
instead of the lower. This test is also appli-
cable to the salts of quinine, but with restric-
tions referred to in Ko. 4025. (Rcbourdain.)
4028. Quinidine. An alkaloid found in
quinia which has been prepared by precipita-
tion. It is distinguished from quinine by
not striking a green color when treated with
chlorine followed by ammonia, as quinine
does. In medicinal character its powers are
comparatively feeble. It is present in nearly
all the ordinary sulphate (disulphate) of
quinine as sold, either through careless pre-
paration or wilful adulteration, and is not de-
tected by, and consequently included in, the
results of the usual tests for quinine. (See
Nos. 4025, ^-c.) Cinchonine is another fee-
bler alkaloid also found in quinia.
4029. Tire's Test for the Presence
of ftuinidine or Cinchonine in Quinine.
This test is applicable to quinine salts gener-
ally, but more especially refers to the sul-
phate (disulphate) of quinine. Place 10 grains
of the salt into a strong test tube, furnished
with a tightly-fitting cork ; add 10 drops of a
miKturo of 1 part sulphuric acid and 5 parts
water, and 15 drops water, accelerating so-
lution by a gentle heat. When dissolved and
entirely cooled, add 60 drops officinal sul-
phuric ether with 20 drops spirits of am-
monia, close the test tube with the thumb,
and shake it well ; cork the tube closely and
shake gently from time to time, so that the
bubbles of air may readily enter the layer of
ether. If the salt be free from, or contain no
greater proportion than 10 per cent, of quini-
dine, it will be entirely dissolved; while on
the surface of contact between the two strata
of fluid, the mechanical impurities only will
be separated. Prom this it appears that 10
grains of the salt may contain 1 grain of
quiuidiue, and still a complete solution take
place ; but, in this case, the quinidine will
shortly begin to crystallize in a layer of ether.
If more than 10 per cent, of quinidine be
present, there will be found an insoluble pre-
cipitate between the strata of the fluid. If
this be quinidine, it will be dissolved by the
addition of ether, while Cinchonine (see
No. 4002) will be unaffected.
Gas. A general term applied to all
aeriform or permanently elastic fluids,
excepting the compound of oxygen and nitro-
gen constituting the atmosphere, which is
distinguished from the other gaseous bodies
by the name of air. (Sec No. 4072.) Gases
for chemical purposes arc usually generated
in a bottle of glass or other appropriate ma-
terial ; or, where the application of heat is
necessary, in a retort. A connecting tube of
convenient shape is fitted air-tight into the
neck or beak of the generating vessels,
through which the gas is led into receiving
vessels. These are usually bottles, with ac-
curately fitting stoppers.
4031. Pne.umatic Trough. A vessel
j or tank nearly filled with water, provided
with a shelf placed 1 or 2 inches below the
surface. The receiving bottles are first im-
mersed in and filled with the water and then
! placed neck downwards on the shelf, which
is furnished with holes to allow of the passage
of the gas into the receivers from the connect-
ing tube, the end of which is brought imme-
diately under one of the holes. For gases
which are easily absorbed by water, mercury
or some other fluid is necessary in place of
the water. As the gas ascends into the re-
ceiving bottle, the water is displaced ; when
full, and the gas begins to escape, the bottle
should be closed with a greased stopper, and
removed from the trough.
4032. To Find the Weight of a Gas.
Multiply the specific gravity of the gas by
309£ (the weight in grains of 1000 cubic inches
of air), the product will be the weight of 1000
cubic inches of the gas.
4033. To Prevent the Escape of Gas
from India-Rubber Tubing. India-rub-
ber tubing is slightly permeable to gas. The
amount which escapes through the walls of
the tube is very small ; but it may be advis-
able sometimes to render an escape impossi-
ble. This can be done by giving the tubing a
thin coating of a varnish made by dissolving
1* parts molasses and 2 parts gum-arabic in
7 parts of white wine and 3£ parts strong al-
cohol. The molasses and gum must first be
dissolved in the white wine, and the alcohol
must be aclded very slowly, constantly stir-
ring the mixture, or the gum will be thrown
down.
4034. Oxygen. An elementary gas,
colorless, tasteless, odorless, and incombusti-
ble, having a specific gravity of about 1.057.
Oxygen enters largely into the composition of
all nature ; being a constituent part of the at-
mosphere (see No. 4072), upon which it confers
the power of supporting life and combustion ;
and water, present more or less through the
whole world, contains about 88 per cent, by
weight, or 33 per cent, by volume, of oxygen ;
it constitutes also a portion of the majority
of the mineral bodies that form the bulk of
our globe. It is a powerful supporter of com-
bustion, and its presence is essential to the
existence of animal and vegetable life. Oxy-
gen unites with certain other bodies in fixed
proportions to form a class of acids distin-
guished as oxygen acids or oxacids. (See
No. 3853.)
4035. To Obtain Oxygen Gas. Heat
in a retort or flask, finely powdered chlorate
of potassa, mixed with about one-fourth its
weight of black oxide of manganese. The
gas must be collected by attaching a tube to
the flask, and passed into a receiving bottle
in a pneumatic trough. (See No. 4031.)
Or : Take chloride of potassa, or red oxide
of mercury, expose it to the heat of a spirit-
lamp, in a suitable vessel, and collect the
gas.
4036. Oxygen Gas from Bleaching
Powder. Oxygen gas can be readily pre-
pared by boiling bleaching powder (hypo-
chlorite of lime) and nitrate of cobalt in a
flask. Make a clear solution of the powder in
water, put it into any convenient flask pro-
vided with a perforated cork and tube, and
378
GAS.
pour in a few drops of a solution of nitrate or
chloride of cobalt, and set it to boil. The
gas, as it is evolved, is collected in a receiving
bottle. (See No. 4031.)
4037. To Obtain Oxygen "Without
Heat. According to M. Boettger, oxygen
can be obtained in a very pure state by em-
ploying binoxide of barium and peroxide of
lead. Take equal parts of these substances
and pour on •weak nitric acid; the reaction
commences immediately, and the gas can be
collected as usual over cold water. (See No.
4031.)
4038. Pure Oxygen for Inhalation.
Eliot recommends for the preparation of oxy-
gen gas, to be used in medicine, the employ-
ment of a mixture of equal parts of peroxide
of barium and peroxide of lead. By pouring
dilute nitric acid upon these salts, there is a
violent effervescence and a copious evolution
of pure oxygen gas. For greater security,
the gas may be afterwards washed in water.
As very little heat is necessary, the operation
can be performed in any stout bottle, thus
dispensing with the usual retorts. For great
purity, the first portion of gas that evolves
should be allowed to escape, as it contains
the air which was in the apparatus.
4039. To Obtain Oxygen on the
Large Scale. Nitre is exposed to a dull red
heat in an iron retort or gun barrel ; 1 pound
of nitre thus yields about 1200 cubic inches
of oxygen, slightly contaminated with nitro-
gen. (Ure.)
4040. Tests for Oxygen. It is distin-
guished from other gases by yielding nothing
but pure water when mixed with twice its
volume of hydrogen and exploded, or when a
jet of hydrogen is burned in it. A recently
extinguished taper, with the wick still red
hot, instantly inflames when plunged into
this gas. A small spiral piece of iron wire,
ignited at the point and suddenly plunged
into a jar of oxygen, bums with great bril-
liancy and rapidity.
4041. Hydrogen. A gaseous element,
colorless, combustible, and the lightest of
ponderable bodies, its specific gravity being
only .06935. It is a constituent part (about
12 per cent, by weight, and 67 per cent, by
volume) of water. According to Dumas, "it
is a gaseous metal, as mercury is a liquid met-
al." It forms an ingredient in all bodies that
possess the power of burning with flame ; it
burns with a pale blue flame, and, in combi-
nation with carbon, constitutes the illuminat-
ing gas in general use. In contact with
spongy platinum it inflames spontaneously ;
and, from its extreme lightness, is the best
means employed for inflating balloons. It is
one of the most useful elements in the ma-
terial world. Hydrogen forms, with other
bodies, a class of acids called hydrogen acids
or hydracids. (See No. 3853.)
4042. To Obtain Hydrogen Gas.
Hydrogen gas is readily procured by pouring
on fragments of zinc, in a glass bottle, or
flask with a bent tube, or retort, some diluted
sulphuric acid ( 1 measure of strong acid to 5
of water). It may be collected over water.
If zinc be not at hand, fine iron wire, or the
turnings or filings of iron, may be substituted
for it. To procure gas of great purity, dis-
tilled zinc must be used, and it is advisable to
lass the gas first through alcohol, and then
;hrough a concentrated solution of pure po-
;assa. Care must be taken that all the air has
jeen driven out of each vessel before any
ight is applied, or an explosion will ensue.
4043. Cheap Method of Obtaining
Hydrogen. Take quicklime, slack it, let it
ool and crumble into a dry hydrate ; then
mix it with charcoal, coke, or peat, and heat
in a retort. The hydrate of lime (slacked lime)
nves up the water that was used in slacking
t, and becomes quicklime. The water is de-
iomposed into hydrogen and carbonic acid, and
;hese two gases can be separated by passing
them through water, or the carbonic acid may
be economized by employing it in the manu-
facture of bicarbonates. The quicklime can
be again slacked and used as often as required.
4044. Hydrogen Gas for Balloons.
For this purpose hydrogen may be obtained
by pouring slightly diluted muriatic acid upon
an equal weight of zinc, in a covered vessel
having a small tap or stop-cock in the top for
filling the balloons. The vessel should be
made of lead, to prevent corrosion.
4045 . To Estimate the Buoyant Pow-
er of Balloons. It will take about 12 cu-
bic feet of the hydrogen gas, used for infla-
ting balloons to balance or suspend 1 pound
in the air. The, rule used for balloons is as
follows: The specific gravity of the gas com-
pared with the air is .0693 ; 1 cubic foot of
air weighs 527.04 grains, the cubic foot of gas
weighs 36.93 grains ; and therefore there are
527.04-36.93=490.11 grains difference between
the air and gas, in one cubic foot. Multiply
this difference by the number of cubic feet in
the balloon, and divide by 7,000. This will
give the capacity or buoyancy of the balloon,
in pounds ; then subtract the weight of the
balloon and car.
4046. For Obtaining Hydrogen in
Quantities. Place iron wire in a gun- bar-
rel, or a porcelain tube, open at both ends, to
one of which attach a retort containing
water, and to the other a bent tube, connect-
ed with a pneumatic trough. The gun-barrel
must now be heated to redness, and the water
in the retort brought into a state of brisk
ebullition, when the vapor will be decompos-
ed, the oxygen being absorbed by the iron,
and the hydrogen escaping into the gas re-
ceiver. The gas evolved may be purified, if
desired, by passing it through alcohol, <fec.
( See No. 4042.)
4047. Tests For Hydrogen. Hydro-
gen is recognized by its combustibility ; by the
pale color of its flame ; by producing water
only when burnt in air or oxygen ; by extin-
guishing the flame of other bodies ; and by
exploding when mixed with half its weight of
oxygen and fired. ( Coole.y.)
4048. Carburetted Hydrogen. There
are two leading gaseous compounds of carbon
and hydrogen, known as carburetted hjTdro-
gen, and distinguished as light and heavy.
The light carburetted hydrogen is often abun-
dantly disengaged in coal mines, and called
methane, and fire damp. It consists of 2
equivalents of hydrogen and 1 of carbon, and
burns with a yellowish flame. This gas also
escapes in bubbles from the mud on the bot-
tom of stagnant pools, combined with car-
bonic acid, from which it may be freed by
GAS.
379
passing through milk of lime, or a solution
of caustic potassa. ( Cooley. ) It has a spe-
cific gravity of about .559. ( Foivnes.)
Heavy carburetted hydrogen is a combina-
tion of 2 equivalents of carbon and 2 of hydro-
gen ( 4 carbon and 4 hydrogen — Booth ), and
burns with a white luminous flame ; it is a
little lighter than air, having a specific gravity
of .981. It is also called Ethine.
4049. To Obtain Light Carburetted
Hydrogen. When 2 parts crystallized ace-
tate of soda, 2 parts dry hydrate of potassa,
and 3 parts powdered quicklime, are strongly
heated in a flask or retort, this gas is abund-
antly evolved, and may be collected over
water. (See No. 4031.)
4050. To Obtain Heavy Carburetted
Hydrogen. Heavy carburetted hydrogen is
prepared by heating in a retort 1 part of alco-
hol with 6 or 7 of oil of vitriol until it black-
ens, and conducting the mixed gases through
milk of lime, which retains the sulphurous
acid ; and afterwards through oil of vitriol,
which absorbs water, ether, and alcohol. This
may also be prepared by passing the vapor
of boiling alcohol through a mixture of 10
parts oil of vitriol and 3 parts water, heated
to ebullition (320° to 330° Fahr.), and purify-
ing the vapor as before.
4051. Olefiant Gas. A name given to
heavy carburetted hydrogen, arising from its
producing, in combination with chlorine, an
oily -looking liquid. It is the presence of this
gas which gives the illuminating power to
coal-gas, which is a combination of light,
heavy, and other hydrocarbons.
4052. Sulphuretted Hydrogen. A
compound of hydrogen and sulphur ; a color-
less gas, possessing a powerful odor of rotten
eggs ; specific gravity 1.171 ; it is absorbed by
water, forming liquid sulphuretted hydrogen,
or hydrosulphuric acid. It is a powerful poi-
son. Being considerably denser than air, it
may be poured from its generating bottle into
cavities, a scheme successfully employed by
M. Thenard to destory rats in their holes, a
method equally applicable to other vermin.
It forms saline compounds with the alkalies,
and the earths termed HYDROSULPHATES or
HYDROSTTLPHURETS, and it precipitates metallic
sulphurets from solutions of most of the niet-
als ; hence its value as a test. Air containing
Tnr&orr part of pure hydrogen will sensibly
blacken a piece of white paper, moistened
with a solution of acetate of lead. Sulphu-
retted hydrogen is the active ingredient in the
sulphurous mineral waters.
4053. To Obtain Sulphuretted Hy-
drogen. Mix together 2 parts of iron filings
with 1 of sulphur into a thin pap with water,
and heat it gently in an iron vessel. Combi-
nation takes place with the evolution of
heat forming sulphuret of iron. Cover it till
cold. On this compound, contained in a glass
bottle, or other suitable apparatus, pour sul-
phuric acid previously diluted with 7 parts of
water. If more acid bo afterwards required,
dilute the strong acid with only 4 of water.
The resulting gas is absorbed by water, and
is therefore collected, in preference, over
mercury. This is the plan commonly adopted
in the laboratory.
To obtain it pure, mix 1 part finely powder-
ed tersulphuret of antimony, and 5 parts
strong muriatic acid, in a small glass retort or
flask : apply the heat of a spirit lamp, and-
collect the gas over mercury. (See JVo. 4031.)
4054. Tests for Sulphuretted Hy-
drogen. Sulphuretted hydrogen may be re-
cognized by the odor, and by its blackening
moist carbonate of lead, and tarnishing sil-
ver, and also by its precipitating arsenious
acid yellow, tartar emetic orange, and the
salts of lead black.
4055. Phosphuretted Hydrogen. This
is a gaseous combination of phosphorus and
hydrogen; colorless, very fetid, slightly solu-
ble in water, and burns with a white flame.
It has a specific gravity of 1.24.
4056. To Obtain Phosphuretted Hy-
drogen. The pure gas may be evolved by
gently heating hydrated phosphorus acid in a
small retort, and collecting it by a pneumatic
trough. (See No 4031.)
The spontaneously inflammable variety of
this gas is made by boiling phosphorus with
solution of potash in a small retort, the beak
of which is kept under water : as each bubble
of gas rises from the water, it inflames, and
forms a ring of white smoke, which dilates as
it ascends. The spontaneous inflammability
of the gas, when mixed with atmospheric air
or oxygen, renders caution necessary in its
preparation.
4057. Nitrogen or Azote. An ele-
mentary gaseous body. Pure nitrogen is a
colorless, odorless, tasteless gas, neither com-
bustible nor capable of supporting combustion
or respiration. It is neutral to test paper,
does not affect lime water, and is only slightly
absorbed by pure water. Liebig places its
specific gravity at 0.9722, Berzelius at 0.976.
4058. Tests for Nitrogen. It is rec-
ognized by its purely negative qualities, and
by its forming nitric acid when mixed with
oxygen, and exposed to the electric spark ;
or when a jet of hydrogen is burnt in the
mixed gases. (Cooley.)
4059. To Obtain Nitrogen. Atmos-
pheric air may be made to yield an unlimited
supply of nitrogen, by exposing it to the ac-
tion of substances which combine with its
oxygen. By burning a small piece of phos-
phorus, placed on a capsule floating on the
water in a pneumatic trough, under aT large
bell-glass, and allowing it to stand over the
water a few hours, nearly pure nitrogen is ob-
tained, which may be further purified by agi-
tating it with solution of pure potassa. It
may be dried by passing it through concentra-
ted oil of vitriol.
Nitrogen may be evolved by passing chlor-
ine gas into a solution of pure ammonia, and
drying, as before, through sulphuric acid.
Another plan, well recommended, is to
heat bichromate of ammonia in a retort.
The evolved nitrogen ia deprived of all aque-
ous vapor by sulphuric acid as above, or by
letting it stand over fused chloride of cal-
cium.
4060. Protoxide of Nitrogen. This
gas is also called nitrous oxide, and u largely
used by inhalation, under the name of laugh-
ing gas, to produce insensibility to pain. It
is colorless, possesses an agreeable odor, and
a sweetish taste. At 45° Fahr., and under a
pressure of £0 atmospheres, it is liquid. Its
specific gravity J3 1.5241 ; it supports combus-
380
GAS.
tion, and is absorbed by water. Its most re-
markable property is its action on the system
when inspired. A few deep inspirations are
usually succeeded by a pleasing state of ex-
citement, and a strong propensity to laughter
and muscular exertion, which soon subside,
without being followed by languor or depres-
sion. Its effects, however, vary with different
constitutions.
4061. To Prepare Laughing1 Gas.
Evaporate a solution of nitrate of ammonia
until a drop of the fused mass placed on a
cold plate instantly solidifies ; cool, break the
lump into pieces, and place it in a stoppered
bottle. For use, a portion is introduced into
a glass retort, and heat applied by means of a
spirit lamp. As soon as the heat reaches 480°
Fahr., protoxide of nitrogen is evolved, and
may bo collected in bladders, gas bags, a gaso-
meter, or in the pneumatic trough over warm
water. (See No. 4031.) Should white fumes
appear within the retort after the evolution of
the gas has commenced, the heat should bo
lowered, as, when heated to about G00°, ni-
trate of ammonia explodes with violence.
Nitrous oxide may also be made in the same
way from crystallized nitrate of ammonia, or
by exposing nitric oxide for some days over
iron filings, but it requires great care in its
preparation.
4062. Test for Pure Laughing Gas.
"When pure, it is colorless, has an agreeable
odor, and does not affect a solution ol nitrate
of silver.
4063. Carbonic Acid. An invisible
acidulous gas, formed by the union cf 1
equivalent cf carbon with 2 of oxygen, having
a specific gravity of 1.524, and highly soluble
in water. Its general properties and the
methods of obtaining it will bo found in Nos.
3193, &c. The application cf this gas to the
purposes cf wine-making, &c., is given in
No. 718. The methods for obtaining carbonic
acid pas arc given in N"o. 3914.
4064. Carbonic Oxide. A colorless,
neutral gas, formed cf equal equivalents of
carbon and oxygen, and has a specific gravity
of .913. It burns with a pale blue flame,
and is even more poisonous than carbonic
acid.
4065. To Obtain Carbonic Oxide.
Carbonic oxide may be obtained irora carbonic
acid gas by passing the latter over fragments
of charcoal heated to redness in a tube cf por-
celain cr iron.
Also, by treating binoxalato cf potassa
with 5 or G times its weight cf oil cf vitriol
in a glass retort, at a gentle heat.
Equal weights cf chalk (or carbonate of
soda) and iron filings (or charcoal), strongly
heated in an iron retort or gun barrel, will
evolve the gas rapidly.
"Whichever way the gas io evolved, it must
be passed first through a caustic alkaline so-
lution or milk of lirno, to deprive it of car-
bonic acid, and next over dried chloride of
calcium, to deprive it of moisture. It maybe
collected either over mercury or water, as the
latter absorbs but very little.
4066. Sulphurous Acid. This is a
gaseous combination of 1 equivalent cf sulphur
and 2 of oxygen, having a specific gravity of
1.45, and very soluble "in water, which will
absorb 30 times its volume of the gas. Its
properties, preparation, and application to the
arts, will be found in N" os. 3864, &c.
4067. Ammonia. A highly pungent
gas formed by the union of 1 equivalent of
nitrogen with three of hydrogen. Its specific
gravity is .589. (See Nos. 3981, <f c. ) Double
salts of ammonia are sometimes called AM-
MONIURETS. Thus, sulphate or nitrate of cop-
per precipitated in solution by ammonia, and
the precipitate redissolved by an excess of
ammonia, may be called ammoniurets of
copper, but more correctly ammonio-sulphate,
or ammonio-nitrate of copper.
4068. Hydrochloric Acid. A gaseous
acid formed of equal equivalents of hydrogen
and chlorine. (See Nos. 3882, <fc.)
4069. Chlorine. An elementary gas,
of a yellowish green color, a pungent, suffo-
cating odor, and an astringent taste. Its spe-
cific gravity is 2.47. Under a pressure of 4
atmospheres it condenses into a yellow limpid
liquid. Its most remarkable properties are its
power of destroying almost all animal and
vegetable color, and the putrid odor of decom-
posing organic matter. It has a very strong
attraction for metals. "With bases chlorine
forms CHLORIDES or CHLORTJRETS. (See No.
3853.)
4070. To Obtain Chlorine. This gas
is obtained, for laboratory use, &c., by mixing
together in a glass flask or retort, strong
muriatic acid with half of its weight cf finely-
powdered peroxide of manganese. Or : Pour
common muriatic acid, diluted with an equal
weight of water, upon half its weight of
chloride cf lime. Chlorine gas is immediately
evolved even in the cold, but much more
rapidly on the application cf a gentle heat.
This gas must bo collected in clean dry bot-
tles by displacement. The tube conducting
the gas must reach to the bottom of the bot-
tle, when the chlorine, being heavier than the
air, will displace the latter, without mixing
with it. The bottle is known to bo full by
the gas overflowing the mouth, which is
easily perceived by its green color. The bot-
tle must now be closed up with an accurately
fitting stopper, previously greased, and an
empty one put ia its place, which is subse-
quently treated in like manner. To free the
gas entirely from muriatic acid, it may bo
passed through water; and to render it dry,
it may bo passed over dry chloride cf calcium.
Chlorine gas may also bo collected over a
saturated solution cf common salt in the
pneumatic trough, if the presence cf moist-
ure be no objection. (See JVo. 40C1.)
4071. Tests for Chlorine. This gas is
readily distinguished frcin other gases by its
color, odor, and bleaching properties. Its
aqueous solution dissolves gold leaf, and in-
stantly blackens a piece cf silver plunged into
it. It rapidly destroys the color of iodide of
starch, solution of indigo, litmus, and turmeric.
A simple method of detecting free chlorine is
to hold a rod, dipped in water of ammonia,
over it, when white fumes of sal-ammoniac
will be formed ; this, coupled with the prop-
erty of bleaching colors, may, in most cases,
bo taken as evidence of the presence of this
substance.
4072. Air. The air or atmosphere
which surrounds the earth is a mixture (not,
combination — Foicnes) of 77 parts by weight
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
381
(or 79.19 parts by measure) of nitrogen, and
23 parts by weight (or 20.81 by measure) of
oxygen. It usually contains also a variable
amount of moisture, a very small proportion
of carbonic acid, a trace of ammonia, and
sometimes of carburetted hydrogen; these
last are found incidentally iu the air, in a
variable degree. It is the standard in the
comparative or specific gravity of gaseous
bodies. (Sec No. 47.) At 60° Fahr., and
with the barometer at 30 inches, 100 cubic
inches of air weigh 30.935 grains ; and water
(the standard of specific gravity for fluids)
weighs just 816 times as much as air.
4073. Tests for Pure Air. A simple
method of ascertaining the presence of im-
purity (carbonic acid) in the atmosphere, is to
nearly fill a glass tumbler with limewater, and
to place it in any convenient position, as on
the mantelpiece of a room. The rapidity
with which a pellicle forms on its surface, or
the water becomes cloudy, corresponds to the
amount of the carbonic acid present in the
atmosphere that surrounds it.
A little moist carbonate of lead put on a
plate or saucer, and exposed in the same way,
will turn black, should any sulphuretted hy-
drogen be contained in the air. This is a very
delicate test for that destructive gas.
Miscellaneous Chemi-
cals. It is proposed, in this place,
to give a concise description of the chemical
compounds referred to in the various depart-
ments of this book. A complete list of chem-
icals would not bo necessary for the scope of
the work, which is a purely practical one ;
such information only is therefore given as is
deemed necessary to render the whole thor-
oughly intelligible, and as complete as possi-
ble. A considerable number of them are in-
serted, for the sake of clearness, in connec-
tion with the process or special purpose for
which their use is directed. These will be
found in their proper place by reference to the
INDEX.
4075. Chloride of Gold. Gold unites
with chlorine under two different proportions,
and are distinguished as the protochloridc and
the terchloride of gold.
The terchloride of gold, or auric chloride,
consists of 3 equivalents of chlorine and 1 of
gold, and is obtained by dissolving 1 part gold
in 3 parts nitro-muriatic acid (aqua-regia) ;
evaporate until vapors of chlorine begin to
be disengaged, and then set the solution
aside to crystallize. It forms orange-red
crystalline needles, or ruby-red prism'atic crys-
tals; is deliquescent, and soluble in water,
ether., and alcohol, forming a deep yellow solu-
tion. (Cooley.)
The protochloridc of gold, or aurous chlor-
ide, consists of 1 equivalent each of chlorine
and gold, and is obtained by evaporating the
terchloride to dryness and exposing it to a
heat of 4CO° (440° Fownes) Fahr., until
chlorine ceases to be evolved. It forms a
yellowish-white mass, insoluble in water; but
it is decomposed by water, slowly when cold,
and rapidly by the aid of heat, into metallic
gold and terchloride of gold. (Cooley.)
4076. Tests for the Presence of Gold
in Solutions. Protosulphate of iron gives
a brown precipitate, which acquires a metal-
lic lustre when rubbed.
Proto'chloride of tin (preferably containing
a little perchloride) gives a violet, purple, or
blackish precipitate, insoluble in muriatic
acid.
Sulphuretted hydrogen and hydrosulphuret
of ammonia give a black precipitate, insoluble
in simple acids.
Ammonia gives a reddish-yellow precipitate
(fulminating gold) with tolerably concentrated
solutions, either at once, or on boiling the li-
quid.
Liquor of potassa gives, with neutral solu-
tions of gold, a similar precipitate to that
formed by ammonia, insoluble in excess.
4077. Fused Nitrate of Silver. Take
3 ounces refined silver, 2 fluid ounces nitric
acid, and 5 fluid ounces distilled water ; mix
in a glass flask and apply a gentle heat until
the metal is dissolved. Transfer the solution
to a porcelain capsule or crucible, decanting
it off a heavy black powder which appears at
the bottom of the flask ; evaporate the solu-
tion to dryness ; raise the heat, in a dark room,
until the mass liquefies, then pour it into
hinged brass or iron moulds furnished with
cylindrical cavities of the size of a goose-quill.
Keep the product, which is Lunar Caustic,
or fused nitrate of silver, in well stopped
bottles, impervious to the light.
Crystallized (or crystals of) Nitrate of Sil-
ver is obtained by dissolving grain silver
(see No. 3217) in nitric acid diluted with twice
its weight of water ; evaporating the solu-
tion until it will crystallize on cooling very
slowly. (See No. 3213.)
4078. Oxide of Silver. Dissolve 2
parts nitrate of silver, and 1 part hydrate of
potassa, each separately, in distilled water;
mix the solution, and, after frequent agitation
during an hour, collect and wash the precipi-
tate, and dry it by a gentle heat iu the shade.
This is more strictly the protoxide of silver,
and is in the form of a pale brown powder.
4079. To Reduce Solid Silver from
its Chloride. Mix together the dry chloride
of silver iu J its weight of powdered black
resin; heat moderately in a crucible until the
flame ceases to have a greenish blue color ;
then increase the heat suddenly until the sil-
ver fuses into a button at the bottom of the
crucible. Some parties recommend an ad-
dition of a little powdered calcined borax,
sprinkled on the surface before increasing the
heat. (See No. 3214.)
4080. To Prepare Nitrate of Silver
from an Alloy of Silver and Copper.
Palm's method. "When it is desired to pre-
pare nitrate of silver from silver containing
copper — coins for example — filter the nitric
acid solution, dissolve the alloy in nitric acid,
evaporate it nearly to the consistence of oil,
not to dryness, and add to a part of this con-
centrated metallic solution, £ part of nitric
acid free from chlorine. The silver salt pre-
cipitates in the form of crystals and the cop-
per remains in the solution. Wash the pre-
cipitate 2 or 3 times with concentrated nitric
acid, and evaporate to dryness. The more
concentrated the nitric acid, the more com-
pletely is the silver salt precipitated ; an acid
382
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
of 1 .250 specific gravity is sufficient, however,
to separate completely the two metals. (See
No. 3216.)
4081. Sulphate of Silver. Prepared
by dissolving silver in sulphuric acid contain-
ing one-tenth of nitric acid ; or by precipita-
ting a solution of the nitrate by another of
sulphate of soda. It dissolves in 80 parts of
hot water, and falls in small needles as the so-
lution cools. ( Cooley). According to Fownes
it dissolves in 88 parts boiling water.
4082. Sulphuret of Silver. A greyish-
black substance prepared by passing sulphu-
retted hydrogen gas through a solution of ni-
trate of silver. It may also be obtained by
melting sulphur and silver together.
4083. Tests for Silver in Solution.
Silver is entirely soluble in diluted nitric
acid. This solution, treated with an excess
of muriate of soda, gives a white precipitate
entirely soluble in ammonia water, and a fluid
which is not aifected by sulphuretted hydro-
gen. The nitric solution of silver also gives
a white curdy precipitate (chloride of silver)
with muriatic acid, soluble in ammonia and
insoluble in nitric acid, and blackened by ex-
posure to light. It gives white precipitates
with solutions of the alkaline carbonates, oxa-
lates, and prussiates. It gives yellow preci-
pitates with the alkaline arsenites and phos-
phates. "With the arseniates, red precipitates.
"With the fixed alkalies, brown precipitates.
"With sulphuretted hydrogen, a black powder.
With phosphorus and metallic copper or zinc,
A precipitate consisting of pure silver.
4084. Chloride of Platinum. The
commercial chloride of platinum is the bi-
chloride, formed by dissolving platinum in
nitro-muriatic acid (aqua-regia), and evapo-
rating the solution to dryness at a gentle heat.
It is reddish-brown, deliquescent, and very
soluble in water and in alcohol, yielding
orange-colored solutions. ( Cooley. ) (See No.
3220.)
4085. Protochloride of Platinum.
This is formed by exposing the dried and pow-
dered bichloride (see No. 4084) for some time
to a temperature of 450° Fahr. It is a green-
ish-grey, powder, insoluble in water, but sol-
uble in muriatic acid.
4086. Ammonio-Chloride of Plati-
num. A solution of sal-ammoniac is added
to a strong solution of bichloride of platinum
(see No 4084), avoiding excess; the precipitate
is collected on a filter, washed with a little
weak alcohol, and dried at a heat not exceed-
ing 180° Fahr. It consists of minute, trans-
parent, yellow crystals, very feebly soluble
in water, less so in dilute alcohol, and in-
soluble in acids. By heating to redness, it is
converted into spongy platinum. (See No.
3336.)
4087. Tests for Solutions of Plati-
num. Sulphuretted hydrogen throws down
from neutral and acid solutions of platinum,
a blackish-brown precipitate, which is only
formed after a time in the cold, but imme-
diately on heating the liquid. Sal-ammoniac
and chloride of potassium give yellow crys-
talline precipitates, insoluble in acids, but
soluble in excess of the precipitant, upon the
application of heat, and decomposable by heat,
with production of spongy platinum. Am-
monia and potassa also give similar precipi-
tates in solutions previously acidulated with
hydrochloric acid. (Cooley}.
4088. Subacetate of Copper. A green
or bluish-green powder, better known as ver-
digris. This may be made by spreading the
marc of grapes, or pieces of cloth dipped in
crude acetic acid, upon plates of copper,
with exposure to the air for several weeks.
(Fownes.)
4089. Binacetate of Copper. Verdi-
gris, dissolved in vinegar with the aid of heat,
forms dark green or blue crystals of binacetate
of copper. This is the commercial acetate of
copper.
4090. Ammonio-Sulphate of Copper.
A dark blue pulverulent substance, formed by
nibbing together 1 ounce sulphate of coppper
and \ ounce sesquicarbonate of ammonia,
until carbonic acid ceases to be evolved ; then
drying the product, wrapped in bibulous paper,
in the air.
4091. Nitrate of Copper. This con-
sists of deep blue, very deliquescent crystals,
obtained by dissolving pure copper in dilute
nitric acid. (See No. 97.)
4092. Protoxide of Copper— also
known as Made oxide of copper — may be
formed by calcining metallic copper, nitrate
of copper, or the hydrate, thrown down from
solutions of the salts of copper by means of
pure potassa. This preparation was formerly
called the deutoxide of copper. It is not
changed by heat, but readily gives out its
oxygen when heated with combustible mat-
ter; hence its general use in organic analysis
for supplying oxygen. It communicates a
beautiful green color to glass and enamels.
4093. Sulphite of Copper. To a con-
centrated solution of bisulphite of potash add
a cold solution of sulphate of copper, filter,
and heat gently.
4094. Suboxide of Copper. This is
the red oxide of copper, obtained by heating
together in a covered crucible 4 parts copper
filings, and 5 parts black oxide of copper.
(See No. 4092.) Or: Mix 100 parts sulphate
of copper with 57 parts carbonate of soda,
(both in crystals), and fuse them at a gentle
heat; cool, pulverize, add 25 parts fine copper
filings, ram the mixture into a crucible, cover
it over, and expose it for 20 minutes to a white
heat. It consists of a superb red powder
with a metallic lustre. It is used as a pig-
ment and a bronze, and as a stain for glass
and enamel, to which it gives a rich red color.
Heat converts it into the black oxide. "With
ammonia it forms a colorless solution, which
rapidly becomes blue from the action of the
air. (Cooley.)
4095. Peroxide of Copper. An oxide
formed by the action of peroxide of hydrogen
water on the hydrated black oxide.
4096. Sulphate of Copper. The blue
vitriol of commerce is obtained from the na-
tive sulphuret of copper (copper pyrites).
Pure sulphate of copper is made by the direct
solution of the metal, or preferably, of its
oxide or carbonate, in sulphuric acid. It con-
sists of fine blue crystals, slightly efflorescent
in the air. By heat it loses its water of crys-
tallization and crumbles into a white powder.
(See No. 120.)
4097. Chloride of Copper. Dissolve
black oxide of copper in muriatic acid ; evap-
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
383
orate and crystallize. It forms green, deli-
quescent crystals, soluble in alcohol, the flame
of which if turns green ; exposed to a heat
ander 400° Fahr. it becomes anhydrous, as-
suming the form of a yellow powder.
4098. Ferrocyanide of Copper. Call-
ed also Prussiate of Copper. Precipitate a
solution of a salt of copper (sulphate of cop-
per, for instance,) with another of yellow
prussiate of potash ; collect the powder, wash
it with water, and dry. Has a beautiful red-
dish-brown color, and is sometimes used as a
pigment.
4099. Tests for Copper Solutions. The
solutions of copper possess a blue or green
color, which they retain, even when considera-
bly diluted with water.
"With caustic potassa they givo a light blue
bulky precipitate, turning blackish-brown or
black on boiling the liquid.
Ammonia and carbonate of ammonia pro-
duce a bluish- white precipitate, soluble in
excess of ammonia, yielding a rich deep blue
solution.
The carbonates of potassa give a similar
precipitate to the last, but insoluble in excess
of the precipitate.
FeiTocyanide of potassium gives a reddish-
brown precipitate. Sulphuretted hydrogen
and hydrosulphuret of ammonia give a black-
ish-brown or black one.
A polished rod of iron, on inmersion in an
acidulated solution, quickly becomes coated
with metallic copper.
4100. Delicate Test for Iron and
Copper. The alcohol tincture of logwood
will produce a blue or bluish-black tint in
water which has been run through iron or
copper pipes, when neither tincture of galls,
sulphocyanide, nor the ferrid and ferrocyan-
ides of potassium show any reaction.
4101. Acetate of Lead. Acetate of
lead should be completely soluble in distilled
water, and when the lead is exactly precipi-
tated with dilute sulphuric acid, or by sulphu-
retted hydrogen, the clear supernatant liquid
should be wholly volatilized by heat without
residue. Sulphuric acid poured on acetate of
lead evolves acetic vapors. Acetate of lead
is powerfully astringent. Take 4 pounds 2
ounces oxide of lead (litharge), acetic acid
(specific gravity 1.048), and distilled water, of
each 4 pints ; mix the fluids, add the oxide,
dissolved by a gantle heat, strain, evaporate,
and crystallize. On the largo scale it is usu-
ally prepared by gradually sprinkling oxide of
lead into strong vinegar, heated in a copper
boiler rendered negative-electric by having a
large flat piece of leat soldered within it, con-
stant stirring being employed until the acid is
saturated, when the mother liquors of a
former process ma3r be added, the whole
heated to the boiling point, allowed to settle
till cold, decanted, evaporated to about the
specific gravity 1.236 or 1.2G7, and then run
into salt-glazed stoneware vessels to crystal-
lize. The best proportions are, finely pow-
dered litharge 13 parts, and acetic acid speci-
fic gravity 1.0482 to 1.0484, 23 parts. These
ingredients should produce about 38i parts of
crystallized sugar of lead. A very slight ex-
cess of acid should be preserved in the liquid
during the boiling and crystallization, to pre-
vent the formation of any basic acetate,
which would impede the formation of regular
crystals.
4102. Chloride of Lead. This is a
white crystalline powder, called also muriate
of lead. Precipitate a solution of 19 ounces
acetate of lead in 3 pints boiling distilled
water, with a solution of 6 ounces chloride of
sodium in 1 pint boiling water ; when cold,
wash and dry the precipitate. It may bo ob-
tained in brilliant colorless needle-shaped crys-
tals, by dissolving finely powdered litharge
in boiling dilute hydrochloric acid. Filter
while hot, and the crystals form on cooling.
4103. Iodide of Lead. Acetato of lead,
9 ounces; water, G pints; dissolve; iodide of
potassium (pure), 7 ounces ; water, 2 pints ; dis-
solve. Add the latter solution to the former,
wash and dry the precipitate, and keep it from
the light. Or : Iodide of potassium and ni-
tate of lead, of each 1 ounce ; dissolve each
separately in £ pint of water, mix, collect the
precipitate in a muslin or linen filter, and wash
it with water ; then boil it in 3 gallons water,
soured with pyrolignepus (acetic) acid, 3- fluid
ounces ; let the solution settle (still keeping
the liquid near the boiling point), and decant
the clear ; as the water cools, the iodide will
subside in brilliant golden yellow lamellae, or
minute crystals.
The latter is the best process, as any ad-
hering oxide of lead is dissolved out by the
acid. (Coolcy).
4104. Chromate of Lead. To a fil-
tered solution of acetate or nitrate of load,
add a filtered sohition of chromate of potassa,
as long as a precipitate forms, which is col-
lected, washed with water, and dried. This
forms chrome-yellow. (See No. 2705.)
4105. Bichromate of Lead. Boil pure
carbonate of lead with chromato of potassa in
excess, until it assumes a proper red color;
then wash it with pure water, and dry it in
the shade. This is the pigment known as
chrome-red. (Sec No. 2706.)
4106. Litharge. Litharge is an oxide
of lead prepared by scraping off the dross that
forms on the surface of melted lead exposed
to a current of air (dross of lead), and heating
it to a full red, to melt out any undecornposed
metal. The fused oxide in cooling forms a
yellow or reddish semi-crystalline mass, which
readily separates into scales; these, when
ground, constitute the powdered litharge of
commerce. Litharge is also prepared by ex-
posing red lead to a heat sufficiently high to
iuso it, and English litharge is obtained as a
secondary product by liquefaction, from ar-
gentiferous lead ore. The litharge of com-
merce is distinguished by its color into lith-
arge of gold, which is dark colored and im-
pure, and litharge of silver, which is purer,
and p_aler colored, the dark color of the for-
mer is chiefly owing to the presence cf red
lead. In grinding litharge, about 1 pound of
olive oil is usually added to each 1 cwt., to
prevent dust. Litharge is employed in phar-
macy, to make plasters and several other
preparations of lead ; by painters as a dryer
for oils, and for various other purposes in the
arts.
4107. Nitrate of Lead. Litharge, 4i
ounces; diluted nitric acid, 1 pint; dissolve
by a gentle heat, and set the solution aside to
crystallize. Employed as external application
384,
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
in cutaneous affections, &c. A very weak so-
lution is an excellent remedy for chapped
hands, &c.
4108. Tests for the Presence of Lead
in its Solutions. The presence of lead in
solutions may be recognized by the effects
produced by the following reagents :
The addition of sulphuretted hydrogen,
hydrosulphurot of ammonia, or the alkaline
Bulphurets, to a solution containing lead, give
black precipitates, insoluble in cold dilute
acids, alkalies, alkaline sulphurets, and cyanide
of potassium.
Caustic potassa or soda gives a white pre-
cipitate, soluble in excess of the precipitant.
Ammonia throws down a white precipitate,
insoluble in excess, from all the solutions of
lead salts, except that of the acetate.
Dilute sulphuric acid, in excess, also solu-
tions of the sulphates, give a white precipitate,
insoluble in dilute nitric acid, but soluble in a
solution- of potassa.
Chromate of potassa gives a yellow precip-
itate,-whose soluble qualities are the same as
that from sulphuric acid last mentioned.
Iodide of potassium gives a yellow precipi-
tate, soluble in acetic acid, a solution of po-
tassa, alcohol, and boiling water; from boiling
water it is deposited in small, brilliant, gold-
en-yellow scales, as the liquid cools. (See
also Nos. 2694, <tc.)
4109. To Prepare Chloride of Zinc.
Dilute 1 pint hydrochloric acid with 1 quart
water, add to it 7 ounces zinc in small pieces ;
when the effervescence is nearly finished, ap-
ply heat until bubbles cease to be evolved;
decant the clear and evaporate to dryness.
Fuse the product in a lightly covered crucible,
by a red heat ; pour it out on a flat, smooth
stone, and, when cold, break it into small
pieces, and preserve it in a well-stoppered
bottle.
4110. Ammonio-Chloride of Zinc.
By dissolving 68 parts chloride of zinc and
54 parts sal-ammoniac, a crystallizable salt
is formed, which dissolves oxides of copper
and of iron, and is useful in tinning or zincing
thcso metals.
4111. Chloride of Zinc. Dissolve 2|
troy ounces zinc in small pieces, in sufficient
muriatic acid; strain the solution, add 60
grains nitric acid, and evaporate to dryness.
Dissolve the mass in 5 fluid ounces water, add
60 grains chalk, and let the mixture stand for
24 hours; then filter, and evaporate to dry-
ness. Lastly, fuse the dry mass, pour it out
on a flat stone, and, when it has congealed,
break the mass in pieces and keep in a well-
stoppered bottle. (U. S. Disp.)
41 12. Precipitated Carbonate of Zinc.
Take 12 troy ounces each sulphate of zinc
and carbonate of soda ; dissolve each separate-
ly in 4 pints water; mix the solutions and let
the powder subside ; pour off the liquid, wash
the precipitate with hot water until the wash-
ings are nearly tasteless, and dry with a gen-
tle heat. (U. S. Ph.)
4113. Tutty Powder. Impure oxide
of zinc. It is a substance which collects in
the chimneys of the furnaces in which the
ores of zinc are smelted.
4114. To Prepare Pure Sulphate of
Zinc. Mix 4 ounces laminated or granulated
Bine with 3 fluid ounces oil of vitriol, and 1
pint water, in a porcelain capsule, and when
gas ceases to be evolved, boil for 10 minutes,
filter through muslin, and evaporate to dry-
ness ; next dissolve it in 1 pint water, agitate
this solution frequently during 6 hours with $
ounce prepared chalk, and niter it; add to
the filtered solution 1 fluid draclrtn each com-
mercial nitric acid and dilute sulphuric acid ;
evaporate the mixture until a pellicle forms
on the surface, and set it aside to crystallize ;
dry the crystals on bibulous paper without
heat, and preserve them in a bottle. The
mother liquor will yield more crystals by
further evaporation. This substance is als
known as tvhite vitriol.
4115. Cyanide of Zinc. Add a solution
of cyanide ol potassium to a solution of pure
sulphate of zinc; wash and dry the precip-
itate.
4116. Flowers of Zinc. This is ob-
tained by the rapid combustion of zinc in a
deep crucible, placed sideways in a furnace,
so that the flowers (oxide of zinc) may be col-
lected as they form.
4117. Oxide of Zinc. Place carbonate
of zinc in a covered clay crucible, and expose
to a very low red heat, until a portion taken
from the centre of the mass ceases to effer-
vesce on being dropped into dilute sulphuric
acid. This is the commercial zinc-white.
4118. Tests for the Solutions of Zinc.
The solutions of zinc are precipitated white by
the pure alkalies and carbonate of ammonia,
but are completely redissolved by excess of
the precipitant. The carbonates of petassa
and soda give a permanent white precipitate
of carbonate of zinc. Hydrosulphuret of
ammonia also gives a white precipitate, and
so does sulphuretted hydrogen when the solu-
tion is quite neutral. Prussiate of potash
gives a gelatinous white, or bluish-white pre-
cipitate.
4119. Protoxide of Tin. Usually
termed oxide of tin. Precipitate a solution
of protochlorido of tin with carbonate of po-
tassa, wash and dry the powder at a heat
under 166° Fahr., with as little exposure to
the air as possible. It is a white or greyish-
white powder, soluble in acids and in the
pure fixed alkalies. If it be heated in an atmo-
sphere cf carbonic acid it loses its water and
changes to a dense black powder, which is
anhydrous protoxide. (Coolcy.)
4120. Sesquioxide of Tin. A grey,
slimy precipitate, soluble in muriatic acid,
and in ammonia, obtained by mixing fresh,
moist hydratcd peroxide of iron with a solu-
tion of the neutral protochloride of tin.
(Fuchs).
4121. Binoxide or Peroxide of Tin.
Obtained by adding potassa, or an alkaline
carbonate, to a solution of pcrchloride of tin.
This substance is also known as Stannic acid;
hence, its compounds with alkalies are some-
times called GTAK^ATES. It is soluble in acids,
and in pure alkalies. If grain tin be heated
in a test tube with nitric acid, the tin is con-
verted, with evolution of yellow fumes, into a
white powder, peroxide of tin. The nitric
acid will convert the tin into an oxide, but it
cannot combine with the oxide produced.
(Stockhardt.) From this it appears that
nitrate of tin is a misnomer.
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
385
4122. Tin or Polishers' Putty. Melt
tin with rather more thau an equal quantity
of lead, then rapidly raise the heat till the
mixture is red hot; the tin will then be
thrown off in dross, which should be removed
as it forms. This dross is the peroxide of tin,
or tin putty ; the dross may be calcined until
it becomes whitish, and then reduced to
powder.
4123. Protochloride of Tin. Muriate
of tin is obtained by distilling a mixture of
chloride of mercury and tin in fine powder.
It is grey, solid, resin-like, fusible, and volatile.
( Coolei/. )
4124. Perchloride of Tin. Called also
Bichloride and Permuriate of Tin. The pure
bichloride is obtained by heating the proto-
chloride in chlorine gas, or by distilling a
mixture of 8 parts of grain tin with 24 parts
of corrosive sublimate, when a very volatile,
colorless liquid comes over, which was form-
erly called Libavius1 fuming liquor. A solu-
tion of the bichloride or permuriate of tin is
obtained by dissolving tin in nitromuriatic
acid. This solution is much used by dyers,
under the name of Spirits of Tin, Dyers'
Spirits, &c. (See Nos. 107, <fc.) For this
purpose, the acid is best made by mixing 2
parts of muriatic acid with 1 part each of
nitric acid and water, all by measure. (Lie-
big). The tin should be added by degrees,
one portion being allowed to dissolve before
adding another ; as, without this precaution,
the action is apt to become violent, the tem-
perature rise, and peroxide of tin to bo depos-
ited. (See No. 108.) A process which has
been highly recommended, is to prepare a
simple solution of the protochloride, and to
convert it into the bichloride, either by the
addition of nitric acid and a gentle heat, or
by passing chlorine through it.
4125. Tests for the Salts of Tin.
The salts of tin are characterized by the fol-
lowing general properties: Ferroprussiate of
potash gives a white precipitate. Hydrosul-
phuret of potash, a brown-black with the
protoxide, and a golden-yellow with the per-
oxide. Galls do not affect the solutions of
these salts. Corrosive sublimate occasions a
black precipitate with the protoxide salts ; a
white with the peroxide. A plate of lead
frequently throws down metallic tin, or its
oxide, from the saline solutions. Chloride of
gold gives, with the protoxide solutions, the
purple precipitate of Cassius. Chloride of
platinum occasions an orange precipitate with
the protoxide salts. (Cooley.) •
4126. Ethiops of Antimony. Trit-
urate together 3 parts sulphuret cf antimony,
and 2 parts black sulphuret of mercury.
4127. Flowers of Antimony. Throw
powdered sulphuret of antimony, by spoon-
fuls, into an ignited tubulated retort that has
a short and very wide neck, until as many
flowers collect in the receiver as are required.
The argentine flowers are thus prepared:
Keep metallic antimony melted in a vessel,
freely exposed to the air, and furnished with
a cool place for the flowers to rest upon ; col-
lect the flowers as deposited. According to
Berzelius, these are sesquioxide of mercury.
4128. Liver of Antimony. Melt
together 1 part sulphuret of antimony,
and 2 parts dry carbonate of soda (or
potash), and heat until it acquires a proper
color; then cool and powder it. Crocus of
antimony is sometimes sold for the above, but
the latter is prepared by deflagrating equal
parts of antimony and saltpetre (nitrate of
potassa), a small portion at a time, and the
fused mass, separated from the dross, reduced
to fine powder. (Cooley.)
4129. Potassio-Tartrate of Anti-
mony. Commercial Tartar Emetic. Take 2
troy ounces oxide of antimony, and 2i troy
ounces bitartrate of potassa, both in very fine
powder; mix them together, and add them
to 18 fluid ounces boiling distilled water in a
glass vessel. Boil-for 1 hour, filter while hot,
and set aside to crystallize. Dry the crystals,
and keep in a well-stoppered bottle. By
further evaporation the mother-water will
yield more crystals, which should be purified
by a second crystallization. ( U. S. Ph. )
4130. Oxide of Antimony. Insert 4
troy ounces sulphuret of antimony in very
fine powder into a quart flask ; add 18 troy
ounces muriatic acid, and digest in a sand-
b'ath until effervescence ceases. Then remove
the bath and add 600 grains nitric acid, and
when nitrous fumes cease to be given off, and
the liquid has grown cold, add it to £ pint
water, and filter. Pour the filtrate gradually
into 12 pints water, constantly stirring, and
wash the precipitate twice by decantation,
using each time spirits water; drain it through
muslin, and then wash it with water until tie
washings cease to have an acid reaction.
Add li fluid ounces water of ammonia, and,
after standing 2 hours, filter through wet
muslin, and wash with distilled water as long
as the washings form a precipitate with nitrate
of silver. Then dry with a gentle heat on
bibulous paper. (U. S. Ph.) A greyish-
white powder, insoluble in water, soluble in
muriatic and tartaric acids.
4131. Butter of Antimony. The li-
quid chloride of antimony, commercially
known by this name, is usually made by dis-
solving crude or roasted black antimony in
muriatic acid with the addition of a little
nitric acid. It usually contains pernitrate of
iron.
4132. Sulphuret of Antimony. The
black sulphuret (tcrsulphuret) of antimony is
prepared from commercial sulphuret of anti-
mony or by elutriation, in the same manner
as directed for prepared chalk. (See No'. 1292.)
The commercial sidphuret is obtained from
the native gray antimony ore by fusion ; this
separates the sulphuret from the less fusible
earthy matter; it is then run into cakes.
(Cooley.)
Mixtures of an acidulated menstruum or sy-
rup with a sulphuret cf antimonj^, are apt to
disengage sulphuretted hydrogen, when there
is much of them, if kept in a warm room.
The rule should bo to prepare as small a
quantity as possible, and to keep the bottle
cool. (Eymael.)
4133. Penta-Sulphuret of Antimony.
Called also golden sulphuret of antimony.
Boil together for some hours 72 parts tersul-
phuret of antimony, 68 parts dry carbonate of
soda, 52 parts fresh hydrate .of lime, and 13
parts sulphur ; filter, evaporate, and crystal-
lize. Redissolve the crystals (Schlippe's salt),
add dilute sulphuric acid, collect the goldea
386
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
floculent precipitate, wash it with, cold dis-
tilled water, and diy with a gentle heat.
(Liebig.)
4134. Nitrate of Bismuth. The neu-
tral nitrate is made from 2 ounces pure bis-
muth broken into fragments, dissolved by
heat in 6 ounces nitric acid, adding more acid,
if necessary, to effect entire solution. Add to
the solution half its volume of distilled water,
filter through powdered glass, and crystallize
by evaporation. (Cooley.)
4135. Subnitrate of Bismuth. This
\3 also called trisnitrate of bismuth, magistery
of bismuth, and pearl white. It is insoluble in
water, but freely soluble in nitric acid. Dis-
solve 2 ounces bismuth in 3 fluid ounces ni-
tric acid, previously diluted with 2 fluid oun-
ces distilled water; then add 3 quarts cold
water, and allow the white precipitate to sub-
eide. Afterwards decant the clear liquor,
wash the powder, and dry it by a gentle heat.
(Br. Ph.)
4136. Oxide of Bismuth. The anhy-
drous oxide is made by exposing the nitrate
or subnitrate to gentle ignition in a crucible.
This is a straw-yellow colored powder. The
hydrated oxide is a rich-looking white pow-
der, obtained thus: Dissolve 2 pounds bis-
muth in 2J pounds nitric acid, and drop it
gradually into a solution of 3 pounds carbon-
ate of potassa in twice it weight of water,
rendered caustic by previous treatment with
quicklime (see No. 101); wash the precipitate
well with cold water.
4137. Tests for the Salts of Bismuth.
Tin, copper, iron, and zinc throw down bis-
muth from its solutions in the metallic state.
If a salt of bismuth bo heated with carbonate
of soda by the flame of a blowpipe, a bead of
the metal, surrounded by a crust of yellow
oxide, is obtained. The brittleness of the
bead under the hammer distinguishes it from
lead. The salts of bismuth are mostly devoid
of color ; some are soluble, others insoluble.
The soluble salts redden litmus paper ; and,
when the solution contains but little free acid,
and is largely diluted with water, a subsalt,
more or less soluble, is deposited. This pro-
perty of forming subsalts is very characteristic.
(Makins.)
4138.
S reparation is usually known as" calomel.
oil, by means of a sand-bath, 24 troy ounces
mercury with 30 troy ounces sulphuric acid,
until a dry white mass is left. Kub this,
when cold, with 24 ounces mercury in an
earthenware mortar until thoroughly mixed ;
add 18 troy ounces chloride of sodium, tritu-
rate until the globules of mercury cease to
appear, and sublime the mixture. Reduce
the sublimate to a very fine powder and wash
it with boiling distilled water until the wash-
ings afford no precipitate with water of am-
monia, and dry it. ( U. 8. Ph.)
4139. Bichloride of Mercury. The
corrosive sublimate of the drug stores. Boil
24 troy ounces mercury in 36 troy ounces sul-
phuric acid, by means of a sand-bath. When
cold, rub the dry white mass with 18 troy
ounces chloride of sodium in an earthenware
mortar; then sublime with a gentle heat.
Chloride of Mercury. This
( U. S. Ph.)
4140. White Precipitate.
This is the
ammonio-ckloride of mercury, and is prepared
by dissolving, with heat, 6 ounces bichloride
of mercury (corrosive sublimate) in 3 quarts
distilled water; when cool, add 8 fluid oun-
ces liquor of ammonia, frequently shaking it.
"Wash the precipitate with water, and dry it.
It is used to make an ointment for skin dis-
eases ; also to destroy small vermin.
4141. Red Precipitate. lied oxide or
binoxide of mercury is now used in medicine
as an escharotic, also to induce salivation.
Dissolve 4 ounces bichloride of mercury in
6 pints water ; add 28 fluid ounces liquor of
ammonia; wash the precipitate in distilled
water, and dry by a gentle heat.
4142. Chloride of Mercury and Am-
monia. This is obtained by triturating to-
gether equal parts of bichloride of mercury
and sal-ammoniac. This addition of sal-am-
moniac renders the corrosive sublimate more
soluble in water, for use in lotions and injec-
tions.
4143. Black Precipitate. Protoxide
of mercury is obtained by agitating together
1 ounce calomel with 1 gallon lime-water; de-
canting the clear liquid after subsidence, and
washing the sediment with distilled water,
after which it is dried on bibulous paper.
4144. Protonitrate of Mercury. Mix
together in a wide-bottomed glass vessel,
equal parts of quicksilver and nitric acid
(specific gravity 1.32); after digestion for 24
hours in a cool place, remove the crystals that
have formed, wash them with a little nitric
acid, drain them, and keep from the air in a
stoppered bottle. (Paris Codex.)
4145. Tests for the Salts of Mercury.
The salts of mercury are all volatilized at a
dull red heat — give a white precipitate with
prussiate of potash, a black one with sul-
phuretted hydrogen and hydrosulphurets, an
orange-yellow one with gallic acid, and with
a plate of polished copper, a white coat of
metallic mercury.
Solutions of the protosalts of mercury yield
a grey or black precipitate with alkalies, a
yellowish or greenish-yellow one with iodide
of potassium, a white one with muriate of
soda.
Solutions of the persalts of mercury yield
with caustic alkalies, yellowish or red preci-
pitates; with alkaline carbonates, a brick-red
one ; with iodide of potassium, a scarlet one.
4146. Sulphate of Iron. Commercial
sulphate of iron is known also as Copperas,
Green Vitriol, Shoemakers' Slack, &c. For
medicinal purposes it requires some prepara-
tion : Mix 1 fluid ounce sulphuric acid with
4 pints water ; add 4 pounds commercial sul-
phate of iron, and 1 ounce iron wire ; digest
with heat and occasional agitation until the
sulphate is dissolved ; strain while hot, and
set aside so that crystals may form ; evaporate
the mother-liquor for more crystals, and dry
the whole. (Cooley.)
4147. Sulphuret of Iron. Mix to-
gether 4 parts sublimed sulphur, and 7 parts
iron filings. Heat in a crucible in a common
fire till the mixture begins to glow ; then re-
move the crucible from the fire, and cover it
up until the reaction is at an end and the
whole has become cold.
4148. Bisulphuret of Iron. This is
found in large quantities in mineral form, and
is known as Iron pyrites. It may also be ob-
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
387
tained by projecting a mixture of 5 parts sul-
phur, and 4 parts iron filings, into a red-hot
crucible, excluding the air as much as possi-
ble. It melts easily, and takes sharp casts,
and may be colored red with vermilion.
4149. Hydrated Protosulphuret of
Iron. This is a black, insoluble substance,
rapidly decomposed by exposure to the air. A
neutral solution of protosulphate of iron made
with recently boiled or distilled water, is pre-
cipitated by adding a solution of hydrosul-
phuret of ammonia, or of sulphuret of potas-
sium. Collect the precipitate on a filter,
wash it as quickly as possible with recently
boiled water, squeeze in a linen cloth, and
preserve in its pasty state under water.
This preparation of iron is proposed by
Mialhe as an antidote to the salts of arsenic,
antimony, bismuth, lead, mercury, &c., and
to arsenious acid, more especially to white
arsenic and corrosive sublimate. On contact
with the latter substance it is instantly con-
verted into protochloride of iron and sul-
phuret of mercury, two comparatively inert
substances.
4150. Hydrated Persulphuret of
Iron. Prepared by adding, very gradually,
a diluted solution of sulphured cf potassium, or
of hydrosulphuret of ammonia, to a neutral
solution of persulphate of iron, collecting, &c.,
the precipitate, in the same way as in hydra-
ted protosulphuret of iron. Bouchardat and
Sandras recommend this persulphurct as a
substitute for the protosulphuret, to which,
they say, it is preferable.
4151. Protoxide of Iron. Dry protox-
ide of iron is a black powder ; in its hydrated
state it is white, and when exposed to the air
rapidly absorbs oxygen, assuming first a grey-
ish-green color, and then a brownish-red,
which u much brightened by exposure to a
red heat, at the same time that its solubility
in acids is considerably lessened. The salts of
protoxide of iron have a greenish color, but
yield nearly colorless solutions, except when
concentrated. The white hydrate b precipi-
tated from solutions of the protosalts of iron
by the pure alkalies. (Coolcy.)
4152. Tests for Solutions of the Salts
of Protoxide of Iron. When acidulated
they are not precipitated by sulphuretted hy-
drogan ; even neutral solutions with weak
acids are incompletely precipitated; whilst
alkaline solutions are precipitated of a black
color.
Neutral solutions arc precipitated black by
hydrosulphuret of ammonia.
Ammonia and potassa give a greenish- white
precipitate, gradually becoming green, and
then brown ia the air. The presence of amrno-
niacal salts interferes with these tests.
Perrocyanidc of potassium (yellow prussiate
of potash) gives a nearly white precipitate,
becoming gradually blue in the ah", and im-
mediately so on the addition of a little weak
nitric acid or chlorine water.
Ferridcyanido of potassium (red prussiate
of potash, produces a rich deep blue precipi-
tate, insoluble in muriatic acid. In highly
dilute solutions the effect is only a deep blu-
ish-green coloration.
Aurochloride of sodium gives a purple pre-
cipitate ; and phosphate of soda a blue one.
Cochineal freed from fat by ether, and then
digested in water (or very weak spirit), gives
a solution which is colored violet by the pro-
tosalts of iron.
4153. Anhydrous Sosquiqxide of
Iron. A pure anhydrous sesquioxide is ob-
tained by precipitating a solution of sesqui-
sulphate or sesquichloride of iron with am-
monia in excess, and washing, drying, and
igniting the resulting hydrated peroxide.
4154. Jewelers' Rouge. The best
jewelers' rouge is prepared by calcining the
precipitated peroxide of iron (see No. 4153)
until it becomes scarlet. The rust of iron
contains some combined water, and is more
soluble than the oxide prepared by calcina-
tion ; but it is less soluble than that recently
precipitated from its solution in an acid. This
is also called Colcothar, Crocus, or Crocus
Mortis.
4155. Hydrated Sesquioxide of Iron.
Take 4 ounces sulphate of iron; 3£ fluid oun-
ces oil of vitriol ; water, 1 quart ; mix, dis-
solve, and boil, then gradually add 9 fluid
drachms nitric acid; stirring well and boil-
ing for a minute or two after each addition,
until the liquor yields a yellowish-brown pre-
cipitate with ammonia, when it must be fil-
tered and precipitated with 3£ ounces strong
liquor of ammonia, rapidly added and well
mixed in; collect, wash well with water,
drain on a calico filter, and dry at a heat not
exceeding 180° Fahr. When intended as an
antidote for arsenic it should not be dried, but
kept in the moist or gelatinous state. It
should be kept in a well-stoppered bottle filled
with recently distilled or boned water. This
preparation is also called hydrated peroxide of
iron.
4156. Peroxide of Iron. Peroxide, or
sesquioxido of iron, is a brownish-red powder,
known as the red oxide or rust of iron ; in its
hydrated form it ia very soluble in acids, but
less so when anhydrous. The salts of perox-
ide of iron have for the most part a reddish-
yellow color, and redden blue litmus paper.
(Cooley.)
4157. Tests for the Solutions of the
Salts of Peroxide of Iron. Sulphuretted
hydrogen throws down a black precipitate
from alkaline solutions.
Hydrosulphuret of ammonia does the same
with neutral solutions; in very dilute solu-
tions the precipitate is blackish-green; the
precipitate in both cases being soluble in
muriatic and acetic acids.
Ammonia and potassa produce bulky red-
dish-brown precipitates insoluble in excess of
the precipitant.
Ferrocyanide of potassium (yellow prussiate
of potash) gives a rich blue precipitate, in-
soluble in muriatic acid, and readily decom-
posed by potassa.
Ferridcyanide of potassium (red prussiate
of potash) deepens the color, but does not
give a blue precipitate, as it does with the
protoxide. (Sec No. 4152.)
Sulphocyanide of potassium gives an in-
tense ruby-red color to neutral or acid solu-
tions ; this is the most sensitive test known.
Meconic acid and the meconiates also give a
red color.
A tincture or infusion of galls strikes a
black color; and phosphate of soda throws
down a white precipitate.
388
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4158. To Obtain Pure Oxalate of
Iron. Togel recommends the precipitation
of a solution of an ordinary protosulphato of
iron by oxalic acid. The filtered solutions
exclude all insoluble matter, and the precipi-
tated oxalate needs but sufficient washing and
drying to obtain the oxalate ef iron in a state
of 'purity and of constant composition. This
ealt gently heated, -with exposure to the air,
takes fire, or may be kindled, and then con-
tinues to burn until the whole becomes con-
verted into impalpable peroxide of iron. This
cheap, rapid, and perfect method of obtaining
a perfect oxide of iron, free from all grit and
eminently fitted for all the finer polishing
purposes, had led to the use of this article for
polishing the finest optical glasses. By heating
the product to a higher temperature, a much
harder substance may be obtained, useful
rather for grinding than for polishing pur-
poses. By adding salts of alumina, chro-
mium and other similar salts to the iron solu-
tion, wo may obtain in the final result — using
sufficient heat — products nearly, if net quite,
equal to emery, and of extraordinary fine-
ness.
4159. Acetate of Iron. Dissolve 20
ounces sulphate of iron in 7 ounces strong
sulphuric acid, and heat in a porcelain dish
nearly to boiling. Then add gradually 10
ounces strong nitric acid; and, when action
ceases, while still hot, add sufficient ammonia
to precipitate all the iron as sesquioxidc.
Collect this on a linen cloth, and wash with
water until the washings taste no longer
saline. While still moist, put the sesquioxide
into a bottle with sufficient strong acetic acid
to dissolve it.
Twenty ounces of sulphate of iron contain
4 ounces iron; hence, if sufficient water bo
added to make the acetate up to CO ounces, the
solution of acetate of iron thus obtained
will contain 8 per cent, of iron.
4160. Citrate of Iron. This salt is
easily formed by digesting iron filings or wire
with citric acid, and evaporating the solution
as quickly as possible out of contact with the
air. It presents the appearance of a white
powder, nearly insoluble in water, and rapidly
passing to a higher state of oxidation by ex-
posure to the air. Its taste is highly metallic.
It is usually administered in the form cf pills,
mixed with gum or syrup, to prevent prema-
ture decomposition.
4161. Iodide of Iron. Mix together 6
ounces iodine, 2 ounces iron filings, and 4h
pints water ; boil in a sand-bath until the li-
quid turns to a pale green, filter, wash the
residue with a little water, and evaporate the
mixed liquors in an iron vessel, at 212°, to
dryness, and immediately put the iodide into
well-stoppered bottles. A great deal has been
written and said about the preparation of
iodide cf iron, but there is in reality very
little difficulty in the process. As soon as
iodine and iron arc mixed together under wa-
ter, much heat is evolved, and if too much
water bo not used, the combination is soon
completed, and the liquor merely requires to
bo evaporated to dryness, out of contact with
the air, at a heat not exceeding 212°. This is
most cheaply and easily performed by em-
ploying a glass flask, with a thin broad bot-
tom and narrow mouth, by which means the
evolved steam will exclude air from the vessel.
The whole of the uncombined water may be
known to be evaporated when vapor ceases
to condense on a piece of cold glass held over
the mouth of the flask ; a piece of moistened
starch paper occasionally applied in the same
way will indicate whether free iodine be
evolved; should such be the case, the heat
should bo immediately lessened. "When the
evaporation is completed, the mouth of the
flask should be stopped up by laying a piece
cf sheet India-rubber on it, and over that a
flat weight; the flask must be then removed,
and, when cold, broken to pieces, the iodide
weighed, and put into dry and warm stoppered
wide-mouthed glass phials, which must be
immediately closed, tied over with bladder,
and the stoppers dipped into melted wax.
4162. Ammonio - Citrate of Iron.
Take 12^ ounces carbonate of soda, and 12
ounces sulphate of iron ; dissolve each sepa-
rately in C pints boiling distilled water. Mix
the solutions whilo hot, and allow the precip-
itate to subside. Decant the liquor, and, after
washing the precipitate frequently with
water, drain it. Then add to it 6 ounces
citric acid in powder, and dissolve the mix-
ture by a gentle heat. "When cool, add 9 fluid
ounces liquor of ammonia of specific gravity
.960. It must then be filtered, gently evap-
orated to the consistence of syrup, and spread
verv thinly on warm sheets of glass to dry,
which it will rapidly do, if exposed in an atmo-
sphere of warm dry air, and may then be easily
detached from the glass, in thin scales of
great brilliancy and beauty. Only a gentle
heat must be employed, not exceeding that of
a water-bath. This is the method cf produc-
ing those beautiful transparent ruby-colored
scales which are so much admired. It must
be kept in well-stopped bottles.
4163. Saccharine Carbonate of Iron.
A sweet-tasted greenish mass or po'wder. It
is one cf the best of the chalybeates in doses
of 5 to 10 grains. "When pure it should be
easily soluble in hydrochloric acid with brisk
effervescence. Take 4 ounces sulphate of
iron, and 4J ounces carbonate of soda; dis-
solve each separately in. 1 quart boiling water.
Mix the solutions while hot ; and, after allow-
ing time for subsidence, collect the precipitate,
wash it frequently with water, and drain.
Then add 2 ounces sugar previously dis-
solved in 2 fluid ounces water, evaporate over
a water-bath to dryness, and keep in a well-
stopped bottle.
4164. Carburet of Iron. Plumbago, or
black-lead, ia the native carburet cf iron. To
purify it for chemical use, heat it to redness
with caustic potassa in a covered crucible,
then wash it well with water, boil it in nitric
acid and in nitre-muriatic acid (aqua regia) ;
again wash ifc ill water, dry it,- and expose
at a, white heat to a stream cf dry chlorine
gas. Lastly, wash it with water and again
heat it to dull redness. (Dumas.)
4165. Chloride of Iron. The muriate
or protocliloridc cf iron is obtained by dissolv-
ing iron filings or scales in hydrochloric acid,
and crystallizing by evaporation. It forma
soluble green crystals, and is sometimes
called liydrated cliloridc of iron. The above
is not quite pure, but to obtain a pure white
crystalline protochloride, transmit dry hydro-
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
389
chloric acid gas over iron heated to redness
This is volatile at a high temperature. (See
No. 117.)
4166. Pel-chloride of Iron. The per-
muriate or sesquichloride of iron is obtained
by dissolving sesquioxide or rust of iron in
hydrochloric acid, evaporating to the consist-
ence of syrup, and crystallizing. It forms
red crystals, not quite pure. The pure per-
chloride is formed by passing chlorine over
heated iron. This is soluble in •water, alcohol,
and ether, very deliquescent and corrosive,
and is dissipated by a heat a little above
212° Fahr. (Cooley.) Perchloride of iron
should not be given in mixtures containing
medicated syrups or gum-arabic, since the
latter, as •well as all substances containing
tannin, which is the case with those syrups,
are incompatible •with ferric salts. The pro-
per menstruum is simple sugared water; it
is also necessary to keep these mixtures from
the light, on account of the chemical reduc-
tion produced by the latter. (Eymael.)
4167. Ferrocyanide of Iron. This is
pure Prussian blue. Dissolve 9 troy ounces
ferrocyanide of potassium in 2 pints water,
and add it gradually, -with stirring, to 1 pint
of the solution of tersulphate of iron previous-
ly diluted with 1 pint water. Filter the mix-
ture, and wash the precipitate on tho filter
with boiling water until tho washings pass
nearly tasteless. Lastly dry it and rub it
into powder. ( U. S. Ph.)
4168. Solution of Tersulphate of
Iron. Take 2^ troy ounces sulphuric acid,
and If troy ounces nitric acid ; mix them with
i pint water in a largo capsule, heat to the
boiling point, and add 12 troy ounces sulphate
of iron in coarse powder, 3 ounces at a time,
stirring after each addition till effervescence
ceases. Continue tho heat until tho solution
acquires a reddish-brown color, and is free
from nitrous odor. "When, nearly cold add
water to make it up to li pints. ( U. S. Ph.)
4169. Ferridcyanide of Iron. This is
better known as Turnbull's Prussian blue.
(See No. 2674.)
4170. Tannate of Iron. Dissolve 1
part of tannin in 150 of boiling water ; add 9
parts hydrated sesquioxide of iron, freshly
precipitated, washed, and dried in tho water-
bath; evaporate gently to one half; filter,
then add 1 part sugar, evaporate to dryness,
and keep in a close vessel. Or : 1 part sesqui-
oxide of iron and 2 of tannic acid evaporated
to dryness with 3 part:? alcohol.
4171. Nitrate of Iron. Tho protoni-
trate of iron is obtained by dissolving proto-
sulphuret of iron in dilute nitric acid in the
cold, and evaporating the solution in a vac-
uum. It forms small green crystals, very
soluble, and liable to oxidation.
4172. _Pernitrate of Iron. A deep
red liquid ' formed by digesting nitric acid
diluted with about half its weight of water
on the sesquioxide of iron. It is also prepared
from the metal. (See No. 116.)
4173. Oxide of Manganese. There
are, according to Cooley, seven distinct com-
pounds of oxygen and manganese, but the
only one directly employed in the arts is the
black oxide (Mnoxide or deutoxide) of man-
ganese. It is a very plentiful mineral produc-
tion, and is found in great abundance in many
parts of Europe. The manganese of com-
merce is prepared by washing, to remove the
earthy matter, and grinding in mills. The
blackest samples are esteemed the best. It is
chiefly used to supply oxygen gas, and in the
manufacture of glass and chlorine ; in dye-
ing, and to form the salts of manganese.
4174. Chloride of Nickel. Neutralize
muriatic acid with oxide (protoxide) of nickel,
and evaporate gently ; small green crystals of
chloride (muriate) of nickel. If these crystals
are pure, they are rendered yellow and anhy-
drous by heat ; if cobalt be present the salt
retains a green tint.
4175. Protoxide of Nickel. The pro-
toxide (oxide) of nickel is obtained in an
anhydrous form by heating oxalate of nickel
to redness in an open vessel. The hydrated
oxide is an ash-grey powder formed by pre-
cipitating the oxalate of nickel with caustic
potassa.
4176. Peroxide of Nickel. The
peroxide (sesquioxide) is obtained by pass-
ing chlorine through water holding the hy-
drated oxide in suspension.
4177. Sulphate of Nickel. By neu-
tralizing the protoxide of nickel with dilute
sulphuric acid, green prismatic crystals of
sulphate of nickel are obtained.
4178. Oxalate of Nickel. This is a
pale bluish-green precipitate formed by adding
a strong solution of oxalic acid to a like solu-
tion of sulphate of nickel.
41 79. Tests for Solutions of the Salts
of Nickel. Caustic alkalies give a pale-green
precipitate, insoluble in excess of the precipi-
tant, but soluble in a solution of carbonate of
ammonia, yielding a greenish-blue liquid.
Ferrocyanide of potassium gives a greenish-
white precipitate. Sulphuretted hydrogen
occasions no change in solutions of nickel
containing free mineral acid ; but with alka-
line solutions gives a black precipitate.
4180. Acetate of Potassa. Mix together
26 fluid ounces acetic acid with 12 fluid ounces
distilled water; add gradually 1 pound or
more, until saturation, of carbonate of po-
tassa ; filter, and evaporate, by a sand-bath, to
dryuess.
4181. Carbonate of Potassa. This is
also known under the name Salt of Tartar,
and Salt of Wormwood. The crude carbonate
is obtained by lixiviating (see No. 23) wood
ashes, evaporating the solution to dryness,
and fusing in iron pots for several hours.
This constitutes the potash of commerce.
Another method ofpreparation is to transfer
tho product of the first evaporation to an oven
furnace so constructed that the flamo is
made to play over the alkaline mass, kept
constantly stirred with an iron rod. The
ignition 13 continued until the impurities are
burned out, and tho mass becomes of a blu-
ish-white ; this is commercial pearlash. Tho
TJ. S. Pharmacoposia directs, for general pur-
poses, tho impure carbonate to be dissolved
in water, filtered, and evaporated until it '
thickens, and then granulated in the manner
directed for tho pure carbonate.
4182. Pure Carbonate of Potassa.
Put 12 troy ounces bicarbonate of potassa, in
coarse powder, into a large iron crucible ; heat
gradually until the water of crystallization is
driven off, then raise the heat to redness and
390
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
maintain it at that heat for 30 minutes. When
cool, dissolve it in distilled water, filter, and
evaporate over a gentle fire until it thickens,
then remove it from the fire and stir it con-
stantly with an iron spatula until it granu-
lates. (U.S. Ph.)
4183. Bicarbonate of Potassa. Dis-
solve 48 ounces carbonate of potassa in 10
pints distilled water ; pass carbonic acid gas
through the solution to saturation (the gas
may be evolved from chalk by diluted oil oi
vitriol). Filter, and evaporate, that crystals
may form, at a heat not exceeding 160° Fahr. ;
decant the clear, and dry the crystals. ( U.
S. Ph.)
4184. Chlorate of Potassa. Transmit
chlorine gas through a moderately strong and
warm solution of pure caustic potassa, or its
carbonate, until the alkali be completely neu-
tralized, then boil for a few minutes, gently
evaporate until a pellicle forms on the surface,
and set it aside, where it will cool very slowly.
Crystals of the chlorate will form as the liquor
cools, and must be collected, carefully washed
with a little ice-cold water, and purified by
re-solution and crystallization; the product
is pure chlorate of potassa. The mother
liquor, which contains much chloride potas-
sium, by evaporation will yield more crys-
tals, less pure than the former, or it may be
saved for a future operation. This salt crys-
tallizes in four and six-sided pearly scales;
dissolves in 16 parts of water at 60°, and in
2k parts at 212°. At about 450° it undergoes
the igneous fusion, and on increasing the heat
almost to redness, effervescence ensues, and
fully 39 per cent, of pure oxygen gas is given
off and the residue becomes changed into chlo-
ride of potassium. "When mixed with in-
flammable substances, and triturated, heated,
or subjected to a smart blow, it explodes with
great violence. It also fulminates when
thrown into strong acids. (See No. 2124.)
(Cooley.)
4185. Perchlorate of Potassa. To
concentrated sulphuric acid, gently warmed
in an open vessel, add, in small portions at a
time, an equal weight of well-dried and finely
powered chloride of potassa. The bisulphate
of potassa formed, is washed off with a little
cold water, and the remaining perchloride of
potassa dissolved in boiling water and crys-
tallized.
4186. Chromate of Potassa. The
yellow chromate of potash of commerce is
only prepared on the large scale from the
crude chrome ore, and is the common source
of nearly all the other compounds of chromium.
The ore, freed as much as possible from its im-
purities, is ground to powder in a mill, and
mixed with i or £ of its weight of bruised
nitre, and in this state exposed to a powerful
heat for several hours, on the hearth of a
reverberatory furnace, during which time it i:3
frequently stirred up with iron rods. The
calcined matter is next raked out and lixi-
viated with hot water. A beautiful yellow-
colored solution results, which is evaporated
briskly over a naked fire, when the chromate
of potash falls down under the form of a gran-
ular yellow salt, which is removed from time
to time with a ladle, and thrown into a wooden
vessel, furnished with a bottom full of holes,
called the draining-box, where it is left to
drain and dry. In this state it forms the
commercial chromate of potash. By a second
solution and crystallization, it may be obtained
in larger and more regular crystals. ( Cooley. )
4187. Bichromate of Potassa. The
red chromate of potash is obtained from a
concentrated solution of the yellow chromate,
by adding sulphuric (or, still better, acetic)
acid in quantity equal to half that required
for the neutralization of the salt. (See No.
83.) The liquid is then concentrated by evapo-
ration, and slowly cooled, so that crystals may
form.
4188. Substitute for Bichromate of
Potassa. One of the German scientific jour-
nals calls attention to the fact that for many
purposes, such as for dyeing wool black,
Glauber's salt and sulphuric acid can be eco-
nomically substituted for bichromate of po-
tassa. It gives the following recipe for dyeing
100 pounds of loose wool — namely, 6 pounds
sulphate of soda, 2 pounds sulphuric acid, and
2 Bounds sulphate of copper, which are to be
boiled together for an hour, and colored with
40 to 50 pounds logwood, and 1 pound sul-
phate of copper, and finally colored black by
means of a little sulphate o'f iron. The black
thus obtained is pronounced to be beautiful,
cheap, and easily spun, remaining loose and
soft.
4189. Nitrite of Potassa. It is ob-
tained mixed with a little nitre and potash by
heating nitre to redness. To purify the
residuum, dissolve it in boiling water, set
aside for 24 hours, pour off the liquid from
the deposited nitre, neutralize the free alkali
with acetic acid, and add twice its volume of
alcohol. In a few hours more, nitre crystalli-
zes, and the liquid separates into two layers ;
the upper is alcoholic solution of acetate of
potash, the lower is solution of nitrate of
potash, which may be evaporated to dryness,
or kept in solution. (Bcasley.)
Or, pass nitrous acid gas, formed by acting:
on 1 part of starch with 10 of nitric acid,
through a solution of caustic potash, specific'
gravity 1.38, until it becomes acid ; then add'
a little caustic potash, so as to render it dis-
tinctly alkaline. It may then be kept in the
liquid form, or evaporated to dryness. ( Cor en-
winder. )
4190. Permanganate of Potassa.
This consists of slender, prismatic crystals,,
of a dark-purple color, inodorous, and of a-
sweetish, astringent taste. It is a powerful
disinfectant, and oxidizing agent, from the
'acility with which it parts with its oxygen,
tt has been found useful in medicine in various
ways, and forms an excellent, though unstable
lair dye. (See No. 1211.) It may be ob-
tained by mixing 8 parts of peroxide of
manganese with 7 parts chlorate of potassa,
joth in fine powder, adding 10 parts of hydrate
of potassa, dissolved in a small quantity of
water, evaporating to dryness, powdering,
exposing the powder to a low red heat in
a plantinum crucible, dissolving the mass in a
arge quantity of water, decanting, evapora-
ting, and crystallizing. These crystals are per-
manganate of potassa. The PERMANGANATES
or basic compounds of permanganic (manga-
nesic) acid are all marked "by their rapid
decomposition when in contact with organic
matter. (Cooley.)
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
391
4191. Tests for Permanganate of
Potassa. A very dilute solution has a
rose-color, free from green tinge, and is in-
stantly decolorized by arsenite of potassa,
with the formation of a brown precipitate.
( U. S. Ph.) Dissolve 44 grains granulated
sulphate of iron in 2 fluid drachms dilute
sulphuric acid ; the solution should completely
decolorize 5 grains of the permanganate dis-
solved in water. (Br. Ph.)
4192. Hydrate of Potassa. This is
also known under the name of caustic potash.
Liquor of potassa, 1 gallon ; evaporate in a
clean iron vessel over the fire until the ebulli-
tion being finished, the hydrate of potassa
liquefies ; pour this into proper moulds. A
pale greyish or bluish solid, very soluble in
water and alcohol.. It should be totally
soluble in alcohol. Its solution should be
scarcely affected by the nitrates of baryta and
silver. It is chiefly used as a caustic, and in
chemistry. (Cooley.)
4193. Potassa with Lime. Rub to-
gether, in a warm mortar, 1 ounce each of
hydrate of potassa and quicklime, and keep
the powder from the air in a well- stopped
bottle. This is a caustic, but less manageable
than either nitrate of silver (lunar caustic.)
or hydrate of potassa (caustic potash.)
4194. Nitrate of Potassa. Called also
nitre and saltpetre. This salt is spontaneously
generated in the soil, owing to the action of
the atmosphere, and crystallizes upon its sur-
face in various parts of the world, especially
in the East Indies. It is also produced artifi-
cially by exposing a mixture of calcareous
soil and animal matter to the atmosphere,
when nitrate of lime is slowly formed, and is
extracted by lixiviation. The liquid is then
decomposed by adding carbonate of potash,
by which carbonate of lime is precipitated
and nitrate of potash remains in solution.
4195. To Purify Nitre. Nitre or salt-
petre is purified for medicinal use in the fol-
lowing manner : Dissolve 4 pounds commercial
nitre in 1 quart boiling distilled water ; with-
draw the heat, and stir constantly as it cools.
The minute crystals, thus obtained, are to be
drained, and washed in a glass or earthenware
percolator, with cold distilled water, until the
washings cease to give a precipitate with a so-
lution of nitrate of silver. The contents of
the percolator are then to be withdrawn and
dried in an oven. (Cooley.)
4196. Tartrate of Potassa. Dissolve
8 ounces carbonate of potash in 2 quarts
distilled water ; whilst boiling hot, add gradu-
ally 1 pound, more or less, of bitartrate of
potassa (cream of tartar) in fine powder,
until the solution is neutralized, or ceases
to change the color of either blue or red-
dened litmus paper. Filter through muslin,
and evaporate until a pellicle forms on the
surface ; then set it aside to crystallize. After
12 hours, collect the crystals, dry them on
bibulous paper, and keep preserved from the
air.
4197. Bitartrate of Potassa. This is
well known under the name of cream of tar-
tar, and is found deposited as a crust on the
sides of the casks and vats used for the fer-
mentation of grape juice. The deposit from
white wine is white tartar; that from red
wine is red tartar, or argol. It is purified by
boiling it in water, and crystallizing; it is
then again dissolved in boiling water, and
decolorized with charcoal (see No. 1729), an'l
aluminous clay ; the resulting clear liquid is
allowed to cool slowly, forming crystals of
the cream of tartar of commerce.
4198. Bromide of Potassium. Put 1
troy ounce iron filings into 1J pints distilled
water; add 2 troy ounces bromine, stirring
frequently during 30 minutes; heat gently
until the liquid assumes a greenish color, and
add gradually 2£ troy ounces pure carbonate
of potassa (previously dissolved in 1} pints
distilled water), until it ceases to produce a
precipitate; continue the heat for 30 minutes,
then filter. Wash the precipitate with 1 pint
boiling distilled water, and filter. Mix the
filtered liquids, and crystallize by evaporation.
Dry the crystals on bibulous paper and keep
them in a well-stoppered bottle. ( U. S. Ph.)
4199. Chloride of Potassium. This is
obtained from the mother liquor after making
chlorate of potassa (see No. 4184), by evap-
orating it to dryness, and heating it to a dull
redness ; it is then dissolved in water, puri-
fied by defecation and crystallized by evap-
oration.
4200. Ferridcyanide of Potassium.
This is the red prussiate of potash, and is ob-
tained from a solution of 1 part ferrocyanide
of potassium in 16 parts cold water, by pass-
ing chlorine gas slowly through it, with con-
stant agitation, until the liquid appears of a
reddish green color, and ceases to give a blue
precipitate, or even a blue tinge, to a solution
of a sesquisalt of iron, an excess of chlorine
being carefully avoided. The liquor is then
evaporated till a pellicle forms on the surface,
filtered while hot, and set aside to cool ; the
crystals are again dissolved and crystallized.
( Cooley. )
4201. Ferrocyanide of Potassium.
This yellow prussiate of potash is the prus-
siate of potash of commerce. It is obtained
by exposing 10 parts potash or pearlash ; 10
parts coke, cinders, or coal ; and 5 parts iron
turnings, all in coarse powder, to a full red
heat in an open crucible, stirring occasionally
until small jets of purple flame are no longer
seen. "When cool, the soluble matter is dis-
solved out of it, the solution filtered, evapo-
rated, and crystallized. The crystals ob-
tained are redissolved in hot water and cooled
very slowly, forming large yellow crystals of
the ferrocyanide of potassium of commerce.
In order to obtain a pure article, fuse efflo-
resced commercial prussiate of potash in a
glass vessel, dissolve the fused mass in water,
neutralize any excess of alkali with acetic
acid, and precipitate the salt with strong al-
cohol ; wash the precipitate with a little weak
alcohol, redissolve it in water, and crystallize.
(Cooley.)
4202. Cyanide (Cyanuret) of Potas-
sium. Mix thoroughly 8 ounces of dry ferro-
cyanide of potassium and 3 ounces dry car-
bonate of potassa ; throw the mixture into a
deep red-hot earthen crucible, the heat being
sustained until effervescence ceases, and the
fluid portion of the mass becomes colorless;
after a few minutes' rest, to allow the contents
to settle, the clear portion is poured from the
heavy black sediment at the bottom on a
clean marble slab ; and, while yet warm, bro-
392
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
ken up and placed in •well-closed bottles.
When pure, this salt is colorless and odorless,
its crystals are cubic or octahedral, and are
anhydrous. If it effervesces with acids, it
contains- carbonate of potassa. If it be yellow,
it contains iron. (Liebig.)
4203. Iodide of Potassium. This im-
portant medicinal compound is obtained in
various ways. The United States Phar-
macopoeia gives the following formula for
its preparation : To 6 troy ounces potassa,
dissolved in 3 pints boiling distilled water,
add gradually finely powdered iodine, stirr-
ing after each addition until the solution be-
comes colorless, and continue the addition
until the liquid remains slightly colored from
excess of iodine. (This will require about 16
troy ounces of iodine.) Evaporate the solu-
tion to dryness, stirring in 2 troy ounces fine-
ly powdered charcoal towards the close of the
operation, so that it may be intimately mixed
with the dried salt. Rub this to powder, and
heat it to dull redness in an iron crucible,
maintaining that temperature for 15 minutes.
After it has cooled, dissolve out the saline
matter with distilled water, filter the solution,
evaporate, and set it aside to crystallize. An
additional quantity of crystals may bo ob-
tained from the mother water by further eva-
poration.
A solution of iodide of potassium keeps
decidedly better when there is neither plain
nor aromatic syrup or sugar in it. "W"hen
gargles of honey of roses, with alum and
water, have a black color, though that of
honey be of the proper shade, this is owing to
the presence of iron iu the alum, which is by
no means a rare occurrence.
4204. Sulphuret of Potassium. Rub
together 1 ounce sublimed sulphur, and 2
ounces dry carbonate of potassa; heat it
gradually in a covered crucible until it ceases
to swell and is completely melted. Pour the
liquid on to a marble slab, and, when cold,
break the mass into pieces, and keep in well-
stopped bottle of green glass. ( U. 8. Ph. )
4205. Sulphocyanide of Potassium.
Take 3 parts cyanide of potassium, and 1 part
sulphur ; digest them for some time in 6 parts
water, then add 3 parts more water; filter,
evaporate, and crystallize. It forms long,
slender, colorless prisms, which arc anhy-
drous, deliquescent, and fusible; very solu-
ble in water and in alcohol, and not poison-
ous.
4206. Acetate of Soda. This is pre-
pared from carbonate of soda, by the same
method- directed for acetate of potassa (sec
No. 4180), except that the resulting solution
is evaporated to a pellicle, and set aside to
crystallize.
4207. Sulphate 9f Soda. Also called
Glauber's salt. This is usually obtained by
dissolving 2 pounds of the chloride of sodium
left after the distillation of muriatic acid (see
No. 3883) in 1 quart of boiling water ; the so-
lution is next neutralized with carbonate of
lime evaporated, and crystallized. It is sol-
uble in cold water, its solubility decreasing
as the temperature of the water is raised;
insoluble in alcohol, and fuses when heated.
4208. Carbonate of Soda. The car-
bonate of soda of commerce is either pre-
pared by lixiviating the ashes of sea- weed, or
from sulphate of soda. The ashes of marine
plants have been long an article of commerce,
under the names of barilla, barilla ashes, kelp,
blanquette, &c., but the carbonate made from
them is of a very impure description. That
made from the siilphate is much purer, and,
when the process is well managed, merely
contains a trace of sulphuric acid. The sul-
phate of soda is mixed with an equal weight
of chalk and about half its weight of coal,
each being previously ground to powder, and
the mixture is exposed to a great heat in a re-
verberatory furnace, and during the calcina-
tion is frequently stirred with a long iron rod.
The dark grey product usually contains about
22 or 23 per cent, of carbonate of soda. This
is now lixiviated with tepid water, and the
solution, after defecation, evaporated to dry-
ness, mixed with a little sawdust, and roasted
in a reverberatory furnace at a heat not ex-
ceeding 700° Fahr., until all the sulphur is
expelled. The product now receives the
name of soda-ash, or soda-salt, and contains
about C0$ of alkali. It may bo purified by
solution in water, defecation, evaporation,
and crystallization ; it then becomes commer-
cial crystallized carbonate of soda, consisting
of large transparent crystals, which effloresce
by exposure to the air, crumbling into a
white dry powder. The carbonate used in
medicine is prepared from the commercial
crystals by dissolving, filtering, and careful
crystallization.
4209. Bicarbonate of Soda. This may
be prepared from a solution of carbonate of
soda treated in the same manner as for bicar-
bonate of potassa. (See No. 4183.) Tile U.
S. Pharmacopoeia directs carbonate of soda in
small pieces to be enclosed in a box (having
an air-tight lid, and an inner bottom perfora-
ted with holes), and thus subjected, until sat-
urated, to a stream of carbonic acid gas
previously passed through water.
Cooley recommends the following process :
Mix together 1 part carbonate of soda with
2 parts dried carbonate of soda, both in pow-
der, and surround them with an atmosphere
of carbonic acid pas, under pressure. Let the
action go on till no more gas is absorbed,
which will generally occupy 10 to 14 hours,
according to the pressure employed, then re-
move the salt and dry it at a heat not above
120° Fahr.
4210. Phosphate of Soda. Mix 10
pounds powdered bone ashes with 44 fluid
ounces sulphuric acid ; add gradually 6 pints
water, and digest for 3 days, replacing the
water which evaporates; then add 6 pints
boiling water, strain through linen, and wash
the residue on the filter with boiling water.
Mix the liquors, and, after defecation, decant
and evaporate to 6 pints ; let the impurities
again settle, and neutralize the clear fluid,
heated to boiling, with a solution of carbonate
of soda in slight excess ; crystals will be de-
posited as the solution cools, and by suc-
cessively evaporating, adding a little soda to
the mother liquor till it is feebly alkaline, and
cooling, more crystals may be obtained.
Keep it in closed vessels. (Ed. Ph.)
4211. Hyposulphite of Soda. Mix
together 1 pound dried carbonate of soda and
10 ounces flowers of sulphur, and slowly heat
the powder in a porcelain dish until the sul-
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
393
phur melts ; stir freely, to expose it to the at-
mosphere, until the incandescence flags, then
dissolve the mass in water, and immediately
boil the filtered liquid with some flowers of
sulphur ; lastly, carefully concentrate the so-
lution for crystallization. ( Coolcy. )
It may also be prepare! by dissolving 8 parts
carbonate of soda in 16 parts water; add 1
part sublimed sulphur, and pass sulphurous
acid gas, in excess, into the solution ; boil the
liquid in a glass matrass for a few minutes,
filter, gently evaporate the filtrate to -J- its
volume, and set it aside in a cool place to crys-
tallize. (Paris Codex.)
4212. Tungstate of Soda. This is
formed by dissolving tungstic acid in a con-
centrated solution of pure soda. Tungstic
acid is a yellow powder obtained by digesting
native tungstate of lime, finely powdered, in
nitric acid. It forms TXJNGSTATES with metals
and bases.
4213. Potassio-Tartrate of Soda.
Known in commerce as Seignettc's or Eochclle
salt. Dissolve 12 ounces carbonate of soda
in 2 quarts boiling water ; add gradually 16
ounces bitartrate of potassa in fine powder.
Strain, evaporate to a pellicle or crust (see No.
9), and set it aside to crystallize. The mother
liquor may be further evaporated for a second
supply of crystals. (Coolcy.) Tho U. S.
Pharmacopoeia adopts the same method, but
directs 5 pints of boiling water to be used.
4214. Bromide of Sodium. This is
now employed to a great extent instead of
bromide of potassium; it is more active than
the latter, is more quickly absorbed, and more
regularly eliminated. To prepare it pure and
in large quantities the following method is
recommended : Bromide of ammonium is de-
composed by an equivalent quantity of caustic
or carbonate of soda, which, of course, must
be free from sulphuric and hydrochloric acids.
The solution yields, after evaporation, small
cubes of anhydrous bromide of sodium.
4215. Chloride of Sodium. This is a
muriate of soda, or common table salt, and is
largely obtained by the evaporation of sea
water, or from the water of salt springs. It
dissolves in about 2i parts of water at GO0
Fahr.; u insoluble in pure alcohol; fuses at a
red heat; and at a higher temperature becomes
volatile.
4216. Iodide of Sodium. This is ob-
tained from soda in the same manner as iodide
of potassium. (See No. 4203.)
4217. Nitro-Prusside of Sodium. To
213 parts of powdered ferroprussiate of potash,
in a porceliain basin, add 4CO parts of nitric
acid of 1.42 density (or 337£ parts at 1.50).
adding all the acid at once. "When dissolved,
transfer to a bolt-head, and digest in a water-
bath until the solution precipitates salts of
protoxide of iron cf a slato color. Neutral-
ize, when cold, with a cold solution cf car-
bonate of soda; theii boil, and separate the
precipitate by filtration. Evaporate the liquid
again, filter, and allow the nitrates of potash
and soda to crystallize out. Evaporate the
liquid again, and remove the prismatic crys-
tals of nitro-prussido as they form. They
may be dissolved in water and recrystallized
by cooling.
4218. Acetate of Ammonia. Mix to-
gether equal parts of sal-ammoniac and ace-
tate of potassa, and distill ; binacetate of
ammonia passes over into the receiver, as an
oily liquid, which, on cooling, forms a radiated
crystalline mass. By passing dry aminoniacal
gas into this salt, melted by a gentle heat, it
is transformed into the neutral acetate, and
becomes solid and inodorous.
Or : By saturating strong acetic acid with
ammonia, and evaporating over sulphuric acid
in vacuo, crystals of acetate of ammonia may
be obtained. Tery soluble both in alcohol
and water, and very deliquescent.
4219. Carbonate of Ammonia. The
Neutral Carbonate is prepared by mixing
equal parts sal-ammoniac, powdered and well
dried, and dried carbonate of soda, and sub-
liming, by a gradually increased heat, from
an earthen retort into a refrigerated receiver.
4220. Sesquicarbonate of Ammonia.
This is the commercial carbonate of ammo-
nia, and is prepared as follows; Sal-ammo-
niac, or pure commercial sulphate of ammo-
nia, and chalk, equal parts, both dry and in
powder. Mix and sublime from an iron pot,
into a long earthen or leaden receiver, well
cooled. The receiver is usually fitted with a
moveable lead cover, secured by a water-joint,
and has an open lead pipe in the bottom, to
allow the liquid products of the distillation to
drain off into a second receiver. "When made
of the impure sulphate of ammonia, it must
be re-sublimed in iron pots, furnished with
leaden heads kept cool. A little water is
commonly introduced into the subliming pots,
to render the product translucent. The heat
is usually applied by means of a common
furnace, but a steam or water bath is prefera-
ble, as the temperature required for this pur-
pose does not exceed 200° Fahr.
4221. Bicarbonate of Ammonia. Tho
commercial carbonate reduced to fine powder,
and exposed to the air for 24 hours, becomes
a bicarbonate spontaneously. It can also
be obtained bypassing a stream of carbonic
acid gas through a solution of the sesquicar-
bonate until saturated, and drying the crystals
which form without heat.
4222. Muriate of Ammonia. Also
called sal-ammoniac and hydrochloratc of am-
monia. This substance was formerly prepared
in Egypt by the sublimation of the soot from
camels' dung, which yields from $ to J its
weight. The sal-ammoniac of commerce is
now wholly prepared at the great chemical
works, and never by the small consumer, by
whom it is merely occasionally refined or
purified. The crude ammoniacal salt of the
gas-works is placed in iron pots, lined with
clay, and a leaden dome or head adapted, and
heat applied until the whole has sublimed.
"When the crude salt is a sulphate, it is mixed
with a sufficient quantity of muriate of soda
before sublimation, and the sal-ammoniac is
formed by the double decomposition of the
ingredients. The preparation of sal-ammo-
niac from bone-spirit salt is nearly similar.
The sal-ammoniac of commerce is found under
the form of large hemispherical, cup-like cakes
or masses, having a semi-crystalline texture,
and varying in weight from 100 to 1000
pounds. It forms a clear and colorless solu-
tion with water, and wholly volatilizes by
heat. Mixed with lime or caustic potassa, it
evolves the pungent odor of ammonia; it
394=
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
gives a white curdy precipitate "with nitrate of
silver. The sal-ainrnoniac of commerce is
generally sufficiently pure for all the purposes
of the arts, but when wanted of greater purity,
it may be broken into pieces and re-sublimed
from "an earthenware vessel into a large re-
ceiver of earthenware or glass, in which state
it is known as "flowers of sal-ammoniac,"
from being in fine powder. Chemically pure
hydrochlorate of ammonia may be prepared
by adding the pure carbonate of ammonia
to dilute hydrochloric acid until saturated.
(Cooley.)
4223. Sulphate of Ammonia. The
commercial sulpnate is obtained by saturating
with weak oil of vitriol the ammoniacal
liquor of the gas-works, or bone-spirit. For
medicinal purposes it is prepared by satura-
ting dilute sulphuric acid with sesquicarbon-
ate of ammonia in slight excess ; it is then
filtered, evaporated by a gentle heat, and crys-
tallized.
4224. Murexide. This is ik.& purpurate
of ammonia, and consists of iridescent crys-
tals, which reflect a beautiful green color, but
transmit an equally fine reddish-purple color.
It is obtained from alloxan, a substance
formed by the action of nitric acid on uric
acid.
4225. Iodide of Ammonium. Place
a portion of iodine in a flask with a little wa-
ter ; add to it a solution of hydrosulphuret of
ammonia, until the mixture loses its red
color, and is turbid from the separation of
sulphur; by shaking the flask, the most of
the sulphur will form into a mass. Pour off
the liquid, and boil it until all odor of sul-
phuretted hydrogen and of ammonia is lost.
Then filter it, and evaporate it, constantly
stirring, over a flame, until it becomes pasty,
and then in a water-bath until it forms a dry
salt. (U. S. Dis.)
4226. Sulphocyanide of Ammonium.
Saturate 2 parts of common water of ammo-
nia (specific gravity 0.950) with sulphuretted
hydrogen ; and add (5 parts of the same am-
monia. To this mixture add 2 parts of sul-
phur, and the product of the distillation of 6
parts of prussiato of potash, 3 of sulphuric
acid, and 18 of water. Digest till the sulphur
is no longer acted on, and the liquid becomes
yellow. Boil the liquid till it becomes color-
less, filter, evaporate, and crystallize.
4227. Bromide of Ammonium. For
the preparation of bromide of ammonium,
bromine is added very gradually to diluted
ammonia. The ensuing reaction produces
much heat, which may cause ammonia and
bromine to volatilize with the escaping nitro-
gen. The combination, therefore, is effected
'm a "Wolffe's apparatus, which will condense
and retain both perfectly. The evaporation
of the fluid is also best done in an iron retort
connected with a stoneware receiver, in which
ammonia and some bromide of ammonium are
condensed.
4228. Sulphuret of Ammonium.
Usually called hydrosulphuret of ammonia.
This is prepared from strong liquor of ammo-
nia, by saturating it with sulphuretted hydro-
gen gas, and then adding a second portion of
liquor of ammonia, equal in strength and
quantity to that first used. Keep it in well-
stoppered bottles. (See No. 1203.)
4229. Manganate of Baryta. The
manganate of baryta, and of other alkalies,
is formed by igniting the nitrate of the alka-
lies with peroxide of manganese, with excess
of air, and dissolving in water. (Booth.)
4230. Nitrate of Baryta. It is pre-
pared in the same manner as muriate of
baryta (see No. 4234), substituting pure nitric
acid for the muriatic acid.
4231. Sulphate of Baryta. This
occurs as a native mineral, and is white, if
pure. It occasionally contains iron, which
may be removed by washing first with dilute
sulphuric acid, and afterwards with pure wa-
ter. (See No. 2697.)
4232. Acetate of Baryta. Dilute
acetic acid neutralized with carbonate of
baryta, and evaporated to form crystals.
4233. Carbonate of Baryta. A heavy
white powder found in the crude state abun-
dantly in nature, and sufficiently pure for
general purposes. The pure carbonate may
be precipitated from a solution of chloride of
barium by the addition of any pure alkaline
carbonate, washing and drying the product.
(Cooley.)
4234. Chloride of Barium. Also
called Muriate of Baryta. Mix gradually 10
ounces carbonate of baryta in small pieces,
with -J- pint muriatic acid diluted with 1 quart
distilled water; evaporate to a pellicle or
crust (see No. 9), and set aside to crystallize.
4235. Protoxide of Barium. This is
the oxide of barium or baryta. (See No.
4236. Peroxide of Barium. The per-
oxide or binoxide is prepared from pure baryta,
heated to a full rod heat in a porcelain tube, and
exposed to a stream of pure dry oxygen gas.
Instead of baryta, its nitrate may be used,
but the nitrous fumes must be 'allowed to
pass off entirely before applying the oxygen.
4237. Sulphuret of Barium. Calcine
and reduce to powder 2 pounds sulphate of
baryta, mix it with 4 ounces finely powdered
charcoal ; submit the mixture for 3 hours to
a low white heat in a covered crucible. When
cool, powder, and boil for 5 minutes in 5
pints water; decant the clear, and repeat
the operation with 3 pints more water ; unite
the liquors, and crystallize by cooling.
4238. Carbonate of Lithia. Precipi-
tate a solution of sulphate of lithia, by a
strong solution of sesquicarbonate of ammo-
nia; collect tho precipitate, drain and press it,
wash it with a little rectified spirit, and dry it.
Dissolve in boiling water, and crystallize by
slow evaporation.
4239. Sulphate of Lithia. Finely
powdered petalite, 1 part ; fluorspar, 2 parts ;
mix, add oil of vitriol, 10 parts, and heat the
mixture as long as acid vapors are evolved.
The residuum must bo dissolved in pure water
of ammonia, boiled, filtered, the solution
evaporated to dryness, and tho dry mass
heated to redness. The matter left is pure
sulphate of lithia. (Bcrzelius.)
Petalite or Spondumene is a mineral found
in various parts of Europe, also in Massa-
chusetts and Connecticut. (Sooth.)
4240. Carbonate of Magnesia. There
are two simple carbonates or magnesia, the
heavy and the light.
The heavy carbonate is prepared from a
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
395
saturated solution of sulphate of magnesia, 1
part by measure; water, 3 parts; heat to the
boiling point, then add cold saturated solu-
tion of carbonate of soda, 1 part; boil, with
constant agitation, till effervescence ceases,
then add boiling water, 100 parts, agitate well,
decant off the clear liquid, drain, and wash the
precipitate with hot water, in a linen cloth,
and finish the drying by heating it in an iron
pot.
The light carbonate is obtained from 4
pounds sulphate of magnesia, and 4 pounds
9 ounces carbonate of soda, each separately
dissolved in 2 gallons water. Mix and boil
the liquors, constantly stirring for 15 minutes ;
after subsidence, decant the clear, wash the
precipitate with boiling water, and dry it.
The carbonate of magnesia of commerce is
usually made up into cakes or dice, while
drying, or is permitted to drain and dry in
masses, which are then cut into shapes with
a thin knife. It is powdered by rubbing it
through a wire sieve. (Cooley.)
4241. Sulphate of Magnesia. This is
the well-known Epsom salts of commerce,
called after the saline springs of Epsom, in
England, from the waters of which it was
originally obtained. It is prepared on the
large scale from Dolomite, or magnesian lime-
stone. Heat the mineral with sufficient
dilute sulphuric acid to convert all its car-
bonate into sulphate of lime, wash out all
the sulphate ot magnesia with hot water,
and, after defecation, evaporate and crys-
tallize.
Or, from bittern. Boil the residual liquor,
or mother-water of sea-salt, for some hours,
skim, and decant the clear, then concentrate
by evaporation, and run the solution into
wooden coolers; in 1 or 2 days \ part of
Epsom salts will have crystallized out. This
is called singles. By re-solution in water,
and re-crystallization, doubles, or Epsom salts,
fit for the market, are obtained.
4242. Sulphuret of Magnesia. The
sulphide, or sulphuret, is prepared by fusing
together, in a covered crucible, 5 parts cal-
cined magnesia and 4 parts sulphur.
4243. Chloride of Magnesium. Dis-
solve magnesia in muriatic acid, evaporate to
dryness, add an equal weight of muriate of
ammonia, project the mixture into a red hot
platinum crucible, and continue the heat until
tranquil fusion is attained. Pour out the
fused mass on to a clean stone ; and, when
solid, break it into pieces, and transfer to a
warm, dry bottle. (Cooley.)
Or: Dissolve magnesia in muriatic acid;
evaporate to a specific gravity of 1.384; and
put it, while hot, into a wide-mouthed flask
to crystallize. (Paris Codex.) This chloride
of magnesium is also called hydrochlorate or
muriate of magnesia.
4244. Acetate of Lime. Neutralize
acetic acid with prepared chalk (see No. 1292),
filter the solution, evaporate by a gentle heat,
and allow to crystallize.
4245. Chloride of Lime — called also
hypochlorite and oxymnriate of lime, bleaching
powder, and chlorinated lime — is seldom, if
ever, made on the small scale, as it can be
purchased of the large manufacturer of better
quality and cheaper than it could possibly be
made by the druggist. On the large scale the
chlorine is generated in leaden vessels, heated
by steam, and the gas, after passing through
water, is conveyed by a leaden tube into an
apartment built of silicious sandstone, and ar-
ranged with shelves or trays, containing
fresh-slacked lime, placed one above another
about an inch asunder. The process must be
continued for 4 days to produce a good article
of chloride of lime. During this time the
lime is occasionally agitated by means of iron
rakes, the handles of which pass through
boxes of lime placed in the walls of the cham-
ber, which act as valves.
4246. Chloride of Calcium. Known
also as muriate of lime. From the strong af-
finity this salt has for water, it is much used
for drying gases and absorbing the water
from ethereal and oily liquids, in organic
analyses. For this purpose it is used in the
dry state. In its hydrous or crystallized
form, it is much used in the preparation of
freezing mixtures with snow. In this case,
the evaporation need only be conducted so far
that the whole becomes a solid mass on re-
moval from the fire. For both this and the
last-mentioned use it is reduced to powder.
It is also much used as a test for sulphuric
acid, with which it produces a white precipi-
tate insoluble in nitric acid ; in the rectifica-
tion of alcohol, and for forming a water-bath
with a high boiling point. As a medicine, it
has been given in some scrofulous and gland-
ular diseases, and has also been used as a
bath in the same cases.
4247. To Prepare Chloride of Cal-
cium. To hydrochloric acid, diluted with an
equal weight of water, add powdered chalk
or white marble, in small fragments, until ef-
fervescence entirely ceases, and the liquid no
longer reddens litmus paper. Filter, evapo-
rate to one-half, and set it aside to crystallize.
Then collect the crystals, dry them by pres-
sure between bibulous paper, and keep in a
stoppered bottle. The mother-liquid will
yield more crystals by further evaporation.
4248. Hyposulphite of Lime. Slack
5 ounces lime with enough water to make 4
pints, boil up with 10 ounces of flowers of sul-
phur, and pass into the solution sulphurous
acid gas (free from carbonic acid) until it has
become colorless. Then filter and evaporate
to crystallization, at a temperature not exceed-
ing 140° Fahrenheit. Another way to prepare
this salt is to mix 44 ounces (by weight) of a
solution of fused chloride of calcium of 1.238
specific gravity, with a warm solution of 25
ounces hyposulphite of soda in 30 ounces
water ; evaporate to 38 ounces, and pour off,
while warm, from the crystals of chloride of
sodium ; then allow to crystallize, and purify
the crystals by re-solution.
4249. Cobalt. A metal found in ores
associated with arsenic and other metals ; also
present in meteoric iron. It is white, brittle,
and does not change in the air ; has a high
melting point, and is strongly magnetic.
Specific gravity 8.5. (Cooley.)
4250. Nitrate of Cobalt. This may be
obtained by dissolving metallic cobalt in
nitric acid, and collecting the crystals. These
crystals are ready soluble in water ; of a red
color; deliquescent, and melt below 212°
Fahr. At a higher heat, nitrous fumes are
given off, and peroxide of cobalt remains.
396
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4251. Chloride of Cobalt. Dissolve
carbonate of cobalt iu muriatic acid ; the so-
lution deposits rose-colored crystals on stand-
ing, -which contain water. By evaporating
the solution, anhydrous blue crystals of the
chloride are obtained. (Coolcy.)
4252. Carbonate of Cobalt. This is
precipitated from a solution of nitrate of co-
balt, by carbonate of potassa, producing a
pale peach-colored powder, soluble in acids.
( Cooley. )
4253. Acetate of Cobalt.' The acetate
is obtained by dissolving carbonate of cobalt
in acetic acid. Acetate of cobalt forms a sym-
pathetic ink. (See No. 2540.)
4254. Manganese. A hard, brittle,
greyish-white metal, very easily oxidized,
fuses with difficulty, unaffected by cold water,
but dissolving freely in dilute sulphuric acid,
evolving hydrogen gas. It has a specific
gravity of 8.013. It is obtained by calci-
nation in a crucible, at a strong heat, of 10
parts by weight of an oxide of manganese,
made into a paste with oil, and combined with
1 part calcined borax.
4255. Peroxide of Manganese. The
"black oxide is the only oxide of manganese that
is directly employed in the arts. It is a plen-
tiful mineral production in a crude state ; and
is purified by grinding the native mineral or
pyrolusite in mills, and removing the earthy
matter by washing.
esteemed the best.
4256. Alum.
The blackest samples are
The alum of commerce is
4260. Butyrine. An oily fluid obtained
from butter. Keep clarified butter in a por-
celain vessel, at a heat of 66°, for some days ;
carefully collect the oily portion which sepa-
rates, and agitate it with an equal weight of
absolute alcohol for 24 hours, then pour off
the clear and evaporate, treat the oily residu-
um with a little carbonate of magnesia to re-
move any free acid, and wash off the butyrate
of magnesia thus formed with water ; next
heat the remaining fatty matter in .alcohol,
filter, and evciporate, to obtain the butyrine.
4261. Bromine. A dark reddish-colored
liquid, having an odor resembling chlorine.
It freezes at — 4°,boils at about 135° Fahr., is
very soluble in ether, less so in alcohol, and
only slightly so in water. "With hydrogen it
forms hydrobromic acid, and, with the bases,
compounds called BROMIDES or HVDROBRO-
MATES. It is obtained as follows : A current of
chlorine is passed through the uncrystallizable
residuum of sea-water, called bittern, which
then assumes an orange tint, in consequence
of bromine being set free from its combinations;
sulphuric ether is then agitated with it, and
the mixture allowed to stand until the ethereal
portion, holding the bromine in solution, floats
upon the surface. -By decanting, and evap-
orating the ether, a crude bromine may be
obtained at once. To get it pure, the ethereal
solution iscarefully decanted, and agitated with
a solution of potassa, by which means bro-
mide of potassium and bromate of potash are
formed. The whole is next evaporated to dry-
a sulphate of alumina and potassa, obtained by i ness, and submitted to a dull red heat; the
lixiviation (see No. 23) from crude alum ore,
or scliist. It is obtained in large crystals,
slightly efflorescent. It is applied in the arts
to a great variety of purposes. "When deprived
of its water of crystallization by heat, it be-
comes burnt or dried alum. Pure red or roche
alum was originally imported from Italy, where
it is found in a native state. This has a red-
dish tinge, which extends more or less through
the crystals.
4257. Hydrate of Alumina.
Dissolve
alum in G times its weight of boiling water,
add a solution of carbonate of potassa, in
Blight excess, agitate the mixture for a few
minutes, and then allow it to repose. After
a time, pour the clear supernatant liquor from
the precipitate or sediment, and wash the
latter three or four times with tepid distilled
or soft water. Next collect the precipitate
on a fine calico filter, and again wash it with
tepid water. "When it has drained, press it
between bibulous paper, and, lastly, dry it
either without heat, or at a temperature not
higher than 120° to 130° Fahr. The product
is a soft white powder. (Cooley.)
4258. Acetate of Alumina. Add a solu-
tion of acetate of baryta to another of sul-
phate of alumina, and filter. Or, add 5 parts
alum to 6 parts sugar of lead, each being first
dissolved separately in hot water, and allowed
to cool before mixing ; decant the clear liquor.
The pure acetate is made from pure hydrate
of alumina, by digesting it in cold, strong
acetic acid, until the latter is saturated. By
spontaneous evaporation long transparent
crystals form.
4259. Sulphate of Alumina. Saturate
dilute sulphuric acid with hydrate of alumina ;
evaporate and crystallize.
residuum is then powdered, mixed with pure
peroxide of manganese, and placed in a reto'rt;
sulphuric acid, diluted with half its weight of
water, is now poured in. Eed vapors imme-
diately arise, and condense into drops of bro-
mine, and are collected by plunging the neck
of the retort to the bottom of a small receiver
containing cold water. The bromine forms a
stratum beneath the water, and may be col-
lected nnd further purified by distillation from
dry chloride of calcium. (Cooley.)
4262. Iodide of Cadmuim. This is
prepared by mixing iodine and cadmuim filings
in a moist state. This is freely soluble in
water or alcohol, and may be crystallized by
evaporation from ether solution, in large
white transparent crystals. ( U. S. Disp.}
4263. Bromide of Cadmium. This is
made from cadmium filings and bromine, in
the same manner as the iodide of cadmium
from iodine. It consists of long, white, efflo-
rescent, crystalline needles.
4264. 'Hydriodate of Quinine. To a
concentrated solution of neutral sulphate of
quinine, add, drop by drop, a concentrated
solution of iodide of potassium; dry the preci-
pitate in the shade; or, heat the liquid nearly
to the boiling point, and allow it to crystal-
lize.
4265. Sulphate of Quinine. This is
the disulphate of quinia. Boil ^8 troy ounces
coarsely powdered yellow cinchona, in 13
pints of water containing 1£ troy ounces mu-
riatic acid, and strain through muslin. Boil
the residue twice successively with the same
quantity of water and acid as before, and
strain. Mix the decoctions, and, while the
liquid is hot, gradually add 5 troy ounces
finely powdered lime, previously mixed with
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
397
2 pints of water, stirring constantly until the
quinia is completely precipitated. Wash the
precipitate with distilled water; and, having
pressed, dried, and powdered it, digest it in
boiling alcohol. Pour off the liquid, and
repeat the digestion several times until the
alcohol is no longer rendered bitter. Mix the
liquids, and distill off the alcohol until a brown
viscid mass remains. Transfer it to a suitable
vessel, and pour upon it 4 pints distilled
water ; and, having heated the mixture to the
boiling point, add as much sulphuric acid as
may be necessary to dissolve the quinia.
Then add 1£ troy ounces animal charcoal, boil
for 2 minutes, filter while hot, and set it aside
to crystallize. Should the liquid before filtra-
tion bo entirely neutral, acidulate it very
slightly with sulphuric acid ; should it, on the
contrary, change the color of litmus paper to
a bright red, add more charcoal. Separate
the crystals from the liquid, dissolve them
in boiling distilled water slightly acidulated
with sulphuric acid, add a little animal char-
coal, filter the solution, d"nd set it aside to
crystallize. Lastly dry the crystals on bibu-
lous paper with a gentle heat, and keep them
in a well- stopped bottle. The mother- water
may be made to yield an additional quantity
of sulphate of quinia by precipitating the
quinia with water of ammonia, and treating
the precipitate with distilled water, sulphuric
acid, and animal charcoal, as before. (U. 8.
Ph.) "When pure it forms light, delicate,
white needles. It is entirely soluble iu hot
water, and more readily so when an acid is
present. Precipitated by ammonia, the re-
siduary liquid, after evaporation, should not
taste of sugar. By a gentle heat it loses 8 or
10 per cent, of water. It is wholly consumed
by heat. If chlorine bo first added, and then
ammonia, it becomes green. A solution of 10
grains in 1 fluid ounce distilled water, and 2
or 3 drops of sulphuric acid, if decomposed by
a solution of \ ounce carbonate of soda, in
two waters, and heated till the precipitate
shrinks and fuses, yields on cooling a solid
mass, which, when dry, weighs 7.4 grains,
and in powder dissolves entirely in a solution
of oxalic acid.
4266. Tests for the Purity of Sul-
phate of Quinine. This salt is frequently
adulterated with starch, magnesia, gum,
sugar, <fec. The first three remain undissolved
when the salt is digested in spirit ; the fourth
is dissolved out by cold water, and the last
may be detected by precipitating the quinine
by liquor of potassa, and dissolving the pre-
cipitate in boiling alcohol; cinchona crystal-
lizes out as the solution cools, but the qui-
nine remains iu the mother liquor. (Coolcy.)
Dr. Stonelen proposes a test for the presence
of salicino in sulphate of quinine. He em-
ploys three kinds of sulphuric acid — viz. : the
fuming, pure concentrated acid, free from
arsenic and nitric acid; ordinary concentrated
sulphuric acid of commerce, containing a
trace of nitric acid; and, lastly, sulphuric
acid, to which, purposely, nitric acid had been
added. "Watch glasses having been placed on
a sheet of white paper, and a drop or two of
the acids above referred to (each in a separate
glass) having been poured therein, a few crys-
tals of sulphate of quinine are put on the
acid; if pure, there is no coloration; but, even
with 1 per cent, of salicine, the two first-
named acids cause a distinct red coloration,
which does not ensue with the acid containing
nitric acid. This latter acid is not even col-
ored by pure salicine.
4267. Acetate of Morphia. The
acetate of morphia of commerce is usually in
the form of a whitish powder, and is prepared
by the mere evaporation of the solution to
dryness by a gentle heat. During the process
a portion of the acetic acid is dissipated, and
hence this preparation is seldom perfectly
soluble in water, unless it be slightly acidula-
ted with acetic acid. It is prepared by dis-
solving G drachms morphia in 3 fluid drachms
acetic acid specific gravity 1.048, diluted with
4 fluid ounces distilled water; evaporate
gently, and crystallize. 100 measures of a
solution of 10 grains in i fluid ounce water,
and 5 minims of acetic acid, heated to 212°,
and decomposed by a very slight excess of
ammonia, yield by agitation a precipitate,
which, in 24 hours, occupies 15| measures o£
the liquid.
4268. Opium. The juice obtained by
cutting the unripe fruit of the white poppy,
and hardened by exposure to the air. It
yields several alkaloids, tho principal of which
is morphine. The best opium, comes from
Smyrna, in Turkey. Sometimes the com-
mercial article is found adulterated with
various substances in order to increase its
weight.
4269. To Test the Strength of Opium.
Take 25 grains quicklime made into a milk
with water, boil in this 100 grains opium, and
filter the solution while hot; saturate the
filtrate with dilute hydrochloric acid, and
then precipitate tho morphia by the addition
of liquor of ammonia, any excess of the latter
being expelled by heat. Collect tho precipi-
tate, dry, and weigh it ; tho weight in grama
will represent the percentage of morphia in
the sample of opium tested. (CouerZc.)
4270. To Test the Purity of Opium.
Macerate 100 grains opium for 24 hours in 2
fluid ounces water; filter and express tho
residue ; then precipitate with a solution of -J
ounce carbonate of soda in 2 fluid ounces cold
water; gently heat tho precipitate until it
fuses, then cool and weigh it. It should
weigh at least 10 grains; and, when pow-
dered, bo entirely soluble in a solution of
oxalic acid.
4271. Chloroform. A thin, .colorless
liquid, of agre'eable ethereal odor, and sweetish
but slightly acrid taste. Its specific gravity
(water standard) is 1.49, and the specific
gravity of its vapor (air standard) is 4.2. It
kindles with difficulty, burning with a green-
ish flame, and gives a dull, sinoky-j'cllow
color to tho flame of alcohol. It occupies a
prominent place among the ancesthetics (sub-
stances used to produce insensibility to pain
by inhaling them), but has in later times
been, to a certain extent, superseded by
nitrous oxide. (See No. 40GO.) Externally
applied, it is refrigerant, soothing, and allays
pam. It neither reddens nor bleaches litmus
paper.
4272. To Obtain Chloroform. This is
prepared on the largo scale, by mixing, in a
capacious retort or still, 4 pounds chloride of
lime, 12 pounds water, and 12 fluid ounces
398
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
rectified alcohol ; distill cautiously as long as
a dense liquid is produced, which sinks in and
separates from the water with which it passes
over. Separate the lower stratum of chloro-
form from the water, agitate it with a little
sulphuric acid, and distill it by the heat of
a water-bath from carbonate of baryta.
(Dumas.)
4273. To Obtain Pure Chloroform.
Place in a capacious still 3 gallons water and
30 fluid ounces rectified spirfy and raise the
temperature to 100° Fahr. Add 10 pounds
chlorinated lime (slacked lime saturated with
chlorine gas), and 5 pounds slacked lime,
mixing thoroughly. Apply heat, which must
be withdrawn as soon as distillation has com-
menced, and distill 50 ounces ; agitate it with
$ gallon water, and allow the crude chloroform
to settle. Separate and wash the chloroform
with 3 fluid ounces distilled water, repeating
this operation 3 times, each time with fresh
distilled water. Next agitate the chloroform
• for 5 minutes with an equal volume of sul-
phuric acid ; when settled, transfer the upper
stratum to a flask containing 2 ounces chloride
of calcium in small pieces, and i ounce per-
fectly dry slacked lime. Agitate thoroughly,
and, after an hour, distill the pure chloroform
over a water-bath. Keep in a well-stoppered
bottle, in a cool place. The U. S. Dispensato-
ry has transferred this from the British Phar-
macopoaia, consequently avoirdupois weight
and Imperial measure are adopted.
4274. To Purify Commercial Chloro-
form. To 102 troy ounces commercial
chloroform add 17 troy ounces sulphuric acid,
occasionally shaking during 24 hours. Sepa-
rate the lighter liquid and mix it with 6 fluid
drachms stronger alcohol. Then add 2 troy
ounces carbonate of potassa, previously heat-
ed to redness, and rubbed into powder while
warm. Agitate thoroughly and distill to dry-
ness. Keep the distilled liquid in well-stop-
ped bottles. (U. S. Ph.)
4275. Tests for the Purity of Chloro-
form. Its specific gravity should not be
less than 1.490, nor more than 1.494; and
should boil at 140° Fahr. When dropped
into water, it sinks in transparent globules
without milkiness. When mixed in a bottle
with an equal bulk of sulphuric acid, it should
produce no warmth ; and after standing for 24
hours, neither liquid should be discolored, or,
at most, a faint yellow tinge imparted to the
lower or acid stratum; moro discoloration
than this would denote the presence of em-
pyreumatic oily matter. "When evaporated
on a porcelain plate, it leaves behind a slight-
ly aromatic odor, but free from pungency.
4276. Chloral. Chloral is an oily li-
quid, possessing an ethereal smell ; it is solu-
ble in alcohol, ether, and water, but its solu-
tion in the latter rapidly changes into a semi-
solid crystalline mass of hydrate of chloral,
soluble in a larger quantity of water. Chloral
boils at 202°, and has a specific gravity of
1.502.
4277. To Obtain Chloral. Place an-
hydrous alcohol in a tubulated retort, and
pass dry chlorine gas through it, at first in
the cold, but afterwards with the application
of a gentle heat. As soon as the chlorine
passes undecomposed through the liquor at
the boiling temperature, the process is com-
plete. On cooling, the liquid in the retort
solidifies, forming a crystalline mass of hydra-
ted chloral. This must be melted by gentle
heat, and agitated with thrice its volume of
oil of vitriol, when, on increasing the heat a
little, an oily stratum of impure chloral will
rise to the surface. This must be removed,
boiled for some time, to drive off' some free
hydrochloric acid and alcohol, and next dis-
tilled with an equal volume of oil of vitriol ;
lastly, it must be rectified from finely-pow-
dered quicklime, stopping the process as soon
as the surface of the lime becomes dry. The
chlorine is best introduced by a tube inserted
into the tubulature of the retort, and a long
tube, bent upwards, should be connected with
the beak to convey away the hydrochloric
acid gas extricated, and to allow the volatil-
ized alcohol and chloral to condense and flow
back into the retort.
4278. To Purify Hydrate of Chloral.
There is perhaps scarcely a liquid in which
chloral hydrate is insoluble at ordinary tem-
perature; four parts of it dissolve gradually
in one part of water, the solution crystallizes
at 32° Fahr., but not in well-formed crystals.
Alcohol and ether dissolve it to such an ex-
tent that it likewise does not crystallize well
on evaporating these solvents ; absolute al-
cohol must be excluded, because it combines
with chloral. Chloroform and benzole are
well adapted for recrystallization, but the
first is too dear, and the last cannot be entire-
ly removed from the crystals. The same
holds good for most other liquid solvents, but
uniformly satisfactory results are obtained
with bisulphide of carbon ; 45 parts of it dis-
solve at 60° to 65° Fahr., but 1 part chloral
hydrate; it precipitates ethereal and alcoholic
solutions of the latter. But at temperatures
below the boiling of bisulphide of carbon, 4
to 5 parts of it are sufficient for dissolving 1
part chloral hydrate. If allowed to cool
slowly, beautiful crystals, often an inch in
length, are obtained, easily collected, and
readily freed from the last traces of the sol-
vent by exposing them in thin layers to the
air. (Fliickiger.)
4279. Sulphuric Ether — also called
oxide of ethyl — is a colorless, transparent,
very limpid fluid, having a penetrating and
agreeable smell and a burning taste.
4280. To Obtain Sulphuric Ether.
Put 2 pounds rectified spirit into a glass re-
tort, and add 2 pounds sulphuric acid ; place
the retort on a sand-bath, and apply heat so
that the liquor may boil as quickly as possi-
ble, and the ether pass into a receiver cooled
by ice or water; continue to distill until a
heavier fluid begins to pass over ; then lower
the heat, add another pound of spirit, and
distill as before. Mix the distilled liquors to-
? ether, pour off the supernatant portion, add
ounce carbonate of potassa (previously igni-
ted), and agitate occasionally for one hour;
finally, distill the ether from a large retort,
and keep it in a well-stoppered bottle. This
ether should have a specific gravity of .750.
It is recommended to mix only a portion of
the alcohol at first with the acid, and as soon
as it reaches boiling point (about 280° Fahr.),
add the remainder only fast enough to re-
place the fluid as it distills over ; also not to
allow the heat to exceed 286°.
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
399
Another method is, to heat the sulphuric
acid to 280°, and then introduce the alcohol
in a fine stream, by means of a tube with a
fine lower orifice, introduced through a cork
fitted to the mouth of the retort; a ther-
mometer being adjusted in a similar manner,
BO that its bulb is immersed in the contents
of the retort. By this means the danger of the
heat rising above 236° is obviated.
4281. Stronger Ether. Officinal JEther
Fortior. Take 3 pints each of ether and water ;
shake them thoroughly together in a bottle ;
and, when the water has subsided, separate
the ether from it, and agitate it well with 1
troy ounce each of chloride of calcium and
lime, both in fine powder. After standing for
24 hours, decant the ether into a retort, with
a Liebig's condenser, connected with a receiver
surrounded by ice-cold water, and distill
pints stronger ether, which should be of a
specific gravity not exceeding .728.
4282. To Purify Ether. Ordinary ether
is purified by first agitating it with 2 or 3 times
its volume of distilled water containing a few
grains of carbonate of potassa, or a few drops
of milk of lime ; and, after decantation, again
agitated with a like quantity of water only.
This may be used for inhalations. The washed
ether is afterwards digested on chloride of cal-
cium to deprive it of retained moisture.
4283. Cautions About Ether. The
vapor of ether is very inflammable, and when
mixed with atmospheric air it forms a vio-
lently explosive mixture. The density of
, this vapor is 2.586, that of air being 1, hence
it rapidly sinks, and frequently accumulates
in the lower parts of buildings, especially cel-
lars which are badly ventilated. Every crack,
every joint in the floors of rooms, the space
bene'ath doors, <fec., offer a road for the pass-
age of this vapor, which, though invisible, as
surely runs out of every orifice, and finds its
level, as a stream of water would do. The
only remedy is thorough ventilation. Many
serious accidents have arisen from this cause ;
a light carried where such vapor is present
causes an explosion.
4284. Ozone Ether. By agitating ether
in a flask with binoxide of barium, adding
gradually perfectly pure and very dilute
hydrochloric acid, occasionally cooling and
subsequently allowing the ether to settle,
we obtain a liquid which has been recom-
mended as a disinfecting, bleaching, and
cleansing agent, and as a test for chromic
acid, which it instantly turns indigo blue.
According to Boettger, this does not contain
ozone, but binoxide of hydrogen, which is
equivalent to it.
4285. Tests for the Purity of Ether.
Pure ether should be neutral to test paper;
vaporke totally when exposed to the air ;
when shaken in a graduated tube with half its
volume of a concentrated solution of chloride
of calcium, its volume should not be lessened ;
water should dissolve only -rV its volume of
ether, and remain transparent. Dry carbon-
ate of potassa or tannin shaken with ether in
a test-tube will become moist or form a syrupy
solution, in case any water is present. The
presence of alcohol is shown by shaking the
ether with water, its solubility in water being
the greater in direct proportion to the quan-
tity of alcohol which it contains.
Spec. Grav.
Per cent.
Spec. Grav.
Per cent.
0.7198
100
.7673
65
.7246
95
.7636
60
.7293
90
.7701
55
.7343
85
.7772
50
.7397
80
.7840
45
.7455
75
.7880
40
.7514
70
4286. To Find the Percentage of
Ether in a Mixture of Ether and Al-
cohol. By ascertaining the specific gravity
at 60° Fahr. of a mixture of ether and alcohol,
the following table will give the percentage
of absolute ether contained in the mixture :
TABLE OF PERCENTAGE OP ETHER.
4287. Nitric Ether. Take 50 parts nitric
acid, specific gravity 1.375, dissolve in it 2 or
3 parts nitrate of urea, and add 50 parts alco-
hol. Distill until $ of the whole has passed
over ; agitate the distillate with a little water
to separate the ether, and preserve the heavier
portion. It has a specific gravity of 1.112;
its vapor is explosive when strongly heated,
consequently great care is necessary in the
distillation, to keep the heat down to the low-
est working point, and to distill only small
quantities at a time. ( Millon. ) ( See directions
for Sulphuric Ether, in No. 4280.)
4288. Nitrous Ether. Nitrous or hypo-
nitrous ether has a pale yellow color, boils at
62° Fahr. ; at 60° its specific gravity is .947 ;
it is very volatile. Take starch, 1 part ; nitric
acid, specific gravity 1.30, 10 parts ; alcohol of
85 per cent., 2 parts ; water, 1 part ; introduce
the starch and acid into a capacious retort
connected with a wide tube 2 or 3 feet long,
bent at right angles, and terminating near the
bottom of a two-necked bottle, containing the
alcohol and water mixed together, and sur-
rounded with a freezing mixture or very cold
water. The other neck of the bottle must be
connected by a wide and long glass tube, with
a good refrigerator or condenser. The heat of
a water-bath must be cautiously applied to
the retort, when pure hyponitrous acid will be
set free, and, passing into the alcohol, will form
hyponitrite of oxide of ethyl (ether), which
will distill in a gentle stream. The tube con-
necting the retort and bottle must be cooled
by means of a rag or moist paper, wetted from
time to time with ice-cold water ; for if the
tube and the alcohol be not carefully cooled,
the latter becomes spontaneously hot, and
boils violently, when the product is vitiated.
This process is very productive and economi-
cal, and yields perfectly pure hyponitrous
ether. (Licbig.)
4289. Sweet Spirit of Nitre. This is
an alcoholic solution of nitrous ether. The
mixture should have, according to the U. S.
Pharmacopoeia, a specific gravity of .837. It
becomes acid by age.
4290. Hydrochloric Ether. This is
the chloride of ethyl, and is distilled in a
retort, from rectified spirit of wine saturated
with dry hydrochloric acid gas. (Thenard
directs equal volumes of concentrated hydro-
chloric acid and absolute alcohol.) The re-
tort is connected with a "Wolffe's apparatus,
the first bottle of which should be two-thirds
full of tepid water (70U to 75° Fahr.), and the
4rOO
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
remainder surrounded with salt and ice. To
render it perfectly anhydrous, it must be
digested on a few fragments of fused chloride
of calcium. (Cooley.)
4291. Acetic Ether. This is a color-
less fluid, and bears a considerable resem-
blance to sulphuric ether, of which it is
strictly an acetate. Liebig assigns it a speci-
fic gravity of .89 at 60° Fahr., dissolving in 7
times its bulk of water ; lire gives it a specific
gravity of .866 at 45°, dissolving in 8 parts
water. It is decomposed by alkalies and
strong acids. (Cooley.) It is also called
acetate of ethyl.
4292. To Obtain Acetic Ether. Mix
together 3 parts acetate of potassa (or an
equivalent quantity of acetate of soda (see No.
80), 3 parts 85 per cent, alcohol, and 2 parts
strongest oil of vitriol. Distill them in a
glass retort or earthenware still, connected
with a well-cooled receiver ; agitate the pro-
duct with a little water, to remove undecom-
posed alcohol, then digest it with a little chalk,
to remove acidity, and afterwards with fused
chloride of calcium, to absorb water. Lastly,
rectify by a gentle heat. (Fownes.)
4293. To Prepare Butyric Ether.
This is the pine-apple oil of commerce ; and,
largely diluted with rectified spirit, is the
pine-apple essence used for flavoring. It is
prepared from crude butyric acid saponified
with caustic potassa, and the resulting soap
distilled along with alcohol and oil of vitriol.
It is sparingly soluble in water, very soluble
in alcohol ; boils at 230°. It is also called
butyrate of ethyl.
4294. Benzole Ether. A colorless oily
liquid, slightly heavier than water, aromatic
in taste and odor. It boils at 410° Fahr. It
is prepared as follows: Take 4 parts 90 per
cent, alcohol, 2 parts crystallized benzoic acid,
and 1 part concentrated muriatic acid ; distill
them together, and, as soon as the product
turns milky when mixed with water, change
the receiver and collect the subsequent distil-
late ; add water to it, decant the ether from
the surface of the water, and boil it with
water and a little oxide of lead (to separate
the benzoic acid) ; lastly, free it from water
by allowing it to stand over chloride of
calcium. Benzoic ether is also called benzo-
ate of ethyl.
4295. Formic Ether — also called for-
miate of ethyl, is a limpid, aromatic fluid,
lighter than water; soluble in 10 parts of
that fluid ; has a specific gravity of .915, and
boils at 130° Fahr. To obtain it, mix in a
retort, with a well-cooled receiver, 7 parts
dry formiate of soda, 10 parts oil of vitriol,
and 6 parts 90 per cent, alcohol. The greater
part will distill over by the heat spontaneous-
ly developed, after which the heat of a water-
bath may be applied. Purify it by agitation,
first with milk of lime, and afterwards with
chloride of calcium. ( Cooley. )
4296. (Enanthic Ether— named also
cenanthylate of ethyl, and pelargonic ether
(see No. 1471) — is colorless, and has a power-
ful intoxicating vinous odor. Its specific
gravity is .862, and boils at 480° Fahr. It is
obtained towards the end of the distillation
of fermented liquors, especially wines, and
purified by agitation with a weak solution of
carbonate of potassa. (Cooley.) This ether
has the odor of quince, and dissolved in a due
proportion of alcohol, forms quince essence.
4297. Chloric Ether. This is synony-
mous with chloroform. Medicinal chloric
ether consists of 1 part chloroform in 8 parts
rectified spirit.
4298. Ethyl. This is a colorless, in-
flammable gas, of a specific gravity a little
over 2 (air standard). Under a pressure of
2J atmospheres, at 37.5 Fahr., it assumes the
form of a colorless ethereal liquid. It forms
the basis of ether, which is oxide of ethyl;
and of alcohol, which is the hydrated oxide
of ethyl ; its usefulness lays chiefly in its com-
pounds with acids. The following are the
principal ones in use, and will serve as a guide
for the preparation of most of the others.
4299. Acetate of Ethyl. Heat together
in a retort, 3 parts acetate of potassium, 3
parts strong alcohol, and 2 parts oil' of vitriol.
The distilled product is mixed with water to
separate the alcohol; digested first with a
little chalk, and afterwards with fused
chloride of calcium; lastly, it is rectified.
A fragrant, limpid liquid, having a density of
.890, and boiling at 165° Fahr. (Fownes.)
4300. Valerianate of Ethyl. Pass
dry hydrochloric acid gas through an alcoholic
solution of valerianic acid. Its odor resembles
butyric ether.
4301. Amyl. This is the basis of the
fusel oil compounds; fusel oil being the
oxide of amyl. It is a colorless, ethereal
liquid, boiling at 311° Fahr. Like ethyl, its
acid compounds are most used. (See No.
1440.)
4302. Acetate of Amyl. Mix together
1 part fusel oil and 2 parts dry acetate of po-
tassa (potassium — Fownes) ; add 1 part con-
centrated sulphuric acid, and distill. Purify
the distillate by washing it with a dilute solu-
tion of potassa, and again distill it from dry
chloride of calcium. (Cooley.) Acetate of
amyl, diluted with alcohol, forms the essence
of Jargonelle or Bergamo t pear.
4303. Valerianate of Amyl. Mix
carefully 4 parts fusel oil with 4 parts sul-
phuric acid ; when cold, add 5 parts valerianic
acid. "Warm the mixture for a few minutes
in a water-bath, then mix it with a little
water, which causes the ether to separate.
Purify this by washing it with water, and a
weak solution of carbonate of soda. An al-
coholic solution of valerianate of amyl consti-
tutes apple essence.
4304. Methyl. This is the basis of me-
thylic alcohol or pyroxylic spirit, forming
compounds with the acids, analogous to those
of ethyl.
4305. Valerianic Acid. A volatile,
fatty acid, obtained by distilling valerian root
along with water, and Acting on the pro-
duct with caustic potassa, when valerian-
ate of potassa is formed, and a volatile oil is
separated; by evaporating to dryness, the
latter is dissipated, and the dry mixture,
treated with dilute sulphuric acid and distilled,
yields an aqueous solution of valerianic acid.
By careful redistillation it may be deprived
of water. Valerianic acid may also be pro-
duced artificially, by heating fused potassa
along with the oil of potato, or com spirit,
when valerianate of potassa is obtained, the
acid of which is identical in all respects with
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
•4O1
that obtained from the root of valerian.
(Liebig.) It is colorless, limpid, oleaginous;
boils at 270° Fahr.; soluble in alcohol and
ether, and in 30 parts of water ; smells strongly
of valerian ; with the bases it forms salts
called VALERI ANATES, most of which are solu-
ble.
4306. Succinic acid. This is obtained
by mixing coarsely powdered amber with an
equal weight of sand, and distilling it by a
gradually increased heat ; the product is puri-
fied by pressing it between bibulous paper, to
remove the oil, and then subliming it. It
forms colorless, inodorous crystalline scales,
soluble in 5 parts cold or 2i parts boiling
water ; is fusible and volatile without decom-
position. ( Cooley. )
4307. Aldehyd-Ammonia. Take sul-
phuric acid, 6 parts ; water, 4 parts ; alcohol of
80 per cent., 4 parts ; peroxide of manganese
in fine powder, 6 parts. Dilute the acid with
the water, then carefully add the alcohol, and
next the manganese ; agitate and distill with
a gentle heat, from a spacious retort into a
receiver surrounded with ice, and connected
with the former perfectly air-tight. "When 6
parts have distilled, re-distill this portion
from its own weight of dried chloride of cal-
cuim until 3 parts have come over, which
must be again rectified in the same manner,
until 1 i parts of liquid are obtained in the
receiver. This liquid must then be mixed
with an equal bulk of ether, and the mixture
saturated with dry ammoniacal gas ; brilliant
colorless prismatic crystals will form, which,
after washing with ether and drying, are pure
aldehyd-ammonia. It smells like turpentine ;
melts at 160° Fahr. ; volatilizes, unchanged,
at 212°; decomposed by exposure to the air;
soluble in most menstrua except ether.
4308. Aldehyde. Dissolve 8 parts
aldehyd-ammonia in 8 parts water ; place the
solution in a retort, and add 7 parts sulphuric
acid, diluted with about half its weight of
water ; then distill as directed in last receipt.
Rectify the product twice from its own weight
of dried muriate of lime, at a heat not exceed-
ing 86° Fahr. It is an ethereous liquid, boil-
ing at 72° ; neutral, inflammable, mixed with
water, alcohol, and ether; decomposed by ex-
posure to the air, into liquid acetic acid;
spoils by age.
4309. Sulphuret of Carbon. A color-
less, pungent, fetid liquid, exceedingly vola-
tile and combustible. It exceeds all substan-
ces in refractive power. In dispersive power
it exceeds all fluid substances except oil of
cassia. It produces intense cold by its evapo-
ration. A spirit thermometer, having its bulb
covered with cotton, if dipped into this fluid
and suspended in the air, rapidly sinks from
60° to 0°, and if put into the receiver of an
air-pump it will fall to — 81°. Mercury may
be readily frozen in this way.
4310. To Prepare Sulphuret of Car-
bon. Heat together in a close vessel 5 parts
bisulphuret of iron, and 1 part well dried
charcoal ; or transmit the vapor of sulphur
over fragments of charcoal heated to redness
in a porcelain tube. In either case the result-
ing compound should be carried off as soon as
formed, by means of a glass tube plunged
into pounded ice, beneath which it will col-
lect. It may be afterwards freed from adher-
[ ing moisture and sulphur by distilling it at a
low temperature from chloride of calcium.
4311. Bisulphide or Bisulphuret of
Carbon. This is used in the arts as a sol-
vent for India-rubber, gutta percha, &c. To
procure it, Mulder recommends the following
process as the most convenient. Provide an
iron bottle (a quicksilver bottle answers very
well), and make a second opening into it. To
one opening adapt a copper tube bent twice
at right angles; and to the other a straight
tube dipping into the bottle. Having nearly
filled the bottle with pieces of charcoal (re-
cently heated to redness), and having screwed
on the bent and straight tubes, place the
bottle in a furnace, closing the mouth of the
latter with a stone or clay cover in two pieces,
hollowed in the centre so as to fit the upper
part of the bottle, and defend it from the
action of the fire. Connect the curved tube
with a "Wolffe's bottle half-filled with water,
and placed in a freezing mixture ; and when
the iron bottle is sufficiently heated, introduce
by the straight tube fragments of sulphur,
and immediately close the mouth of the tube
with a plug. The bisulphuret, as it comes
over, falls to the bottom of the water. Sepa-
rate it from the water, and distill over dry
chloride of calcium.
4312. Terpine. Leave oil of turpentine
for a long time in contact with a mixture of
nitric acid and alcohol. Crystals of terpine
form. By boiling an aqueous solution of ter-
pine with a small quantity of sulphuric or
other acid, terpinole is formed, and may be
separated by distillation. It has the odor of
hyacinths.
4313. Sugar Resin. Mix 16 parts strong
sulphuric acid with 8 of the strongest nitric
acid ; when cooled to 70° Fahr., stir in 1 part
of finely-powdered sugar. In a few seconds,
when the sugar has become pasty, take
it out of the acid and plunge it into cold
water. Add more sugar to the acid, and
proceed as before. "Wash the resinous matter
carefully, and dissolve it in alcohol or ether.
Evaporate the solution with a gentle heat.
It is very combustible. Its solution may be
used to render gunpowder, lucifer matches,
<fec., waterproof.
4314. Aluminized Charcoal. This is
recommended by Dr. Stenhouse as a cheap
and very efficient decolorizing agent. Dis-
solve in water 54 parts of the sulphate of
alumina of commerce, and mix with 92£ parts
of finely powdered wood charcoal. "When the
charcoal is saturated, evaporate to dryness,
and heat to redness in covered Hessian cruci-
bles till the water and acid are dissipated.
The charcoal contains just 7-J per cent, of
anhydrous alumina.
4315. Styrol. Mix 20 parts of storax
with 7 of carbonate of soda, and put them
into a retort with water, and apply heat. A
limpid fluid distills, which becomes, when
heated to a certain point, a transparent solid.
4316. Turpentine. An oleo-resin flow-
ing from the trunk, after removing the bark
of the pitch or swamp pine. It is viscid,
transparent, and of the consistence of honey.
4317. Oil of Turpentine. Oil or
spirits of turpentine is obtained by distilling
crude turpentine along with water. The re<
mainder left in the still after distillation is
402
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
resin. It congeals at 14°, arid boils at 312°
Fahr. ; its specific gravity is about 870°. It
is very inflammable, and becomes resinous by
exposure to the air. When purified, by
redistilling with 3 or 4 times its volume of
water, it produces the camphene of com-
merce.
4318. Venice Turpentine. A liquid
resin which exudes from the larch tree. The
Venice turpentine usually met with is a fac-
titious article composed of 2 gallons oil of
turpentine added to 48 pounds melted black
resin. (Cooley.)
4319. To Purify Turpentine. How-
ever carefully the oil of turpentine may have
been distilled, it always leaves, after evapora-
tion, a disagreeable odor, firmly adhering to
the goods that have been treated with it.
The same is the case with benzine and the
lighter petroleum oils. This may be ob-
viated, according to Bremer, by distillation
over tannin. Articles treated with oil of
turpentine that has been distilled in this
way, are heated to 150° Fahr., when they
lose every trace of odor. Bremer adds that
this preparation is less inflammable, cheaper,
and more agreeable to the workman than ben-
zine.
4320. Benzine. This is the name given
in the United States to one of the products
distilled from petroleum, having a specific
gravity of about .73, or 65° of Baume's light
hydrometer. (See No. 1527.) It has not yet
been frozen, and is dangerously volatile at
all temperatures. (See No. 346.) Benzine
scarcely attacks asphaltum or pitch, and
cannot (like benzole), be converted by nitric
acid into nitro-benzole. It is consequently
useless for the preparation of aniline. Ben-
zine consists of about 84 per cent, carbon and
16 per cent, hydrogen. (See No. 440.)
4321. Benzole. In 1825, Faraday dis-
covered a peculiar liquid which was deposited
by condensation by ordinary coal-gas, and
gave it the name of bicarburet of hydrogen.
Some years afterwards Mitscherlich, of Berlin,
obtained the same liquid from benzoic acid,
and proposed for it the name of benzine.
Faraday objected to this name, as too similar
to the distinctive names of the alkaloids, as
strychnine, morphine, &c., and decided to call
it benzole. The French, however, adhered to
Mitseherlich'a name, and continue to call it
benzine, causing considerable confusion; as
benzole, from, coal-tar, is a different liquid
from benzine, obtained from petroleum. (See
No. 1527.) Benzole has a specific gravity of
.85, and freezes at 37° Fahr; it dissolves as-
phaltum or pitch rapidly, is volatile at all
temperatures, but less so than benzine. Ben-
zole can be converted by nitric acid into nitro-
benzole, and, by further treatment, into ani-
line. (See No. 2552.) It contains about
92.5 per cent, of carbon, and 7.5 per cent, of
hydrogen.
4322. Nitro-Benzole. A yellowish,
oily fluid, insoluble in water; boils at 415°
Fahr., and has a specific gravity of 1.209;
known also as essence of mirbane. The
method of preparing it is as follows : Place 10
parts fuming nitric acid in a tubulated retort
capable of holding 3 times the quantity ; ap-
ply heat sufficient to produce gentle ebullition.
Insert a glass tube through the upper neck of
the retort, and through it introduce by de-
grees, a drop at a time, benzole (not benzine,
see No. 4321), so long as nitrous vapors are
evolved ; the liquid which passes into the re-
ceiver being poured back from time to time
into the retort. When the red vapors have
ceased to rise, distill off the excess of benzole,
if any, from the acid. Then pour the contents
remaining in the retort into 120 to 150 parts
cold water, and let it stand for a few days,
when the nitro-benzole will be found separa-
ted at the lower part of the vessel. Pecant
the upper stratum of acid, wash the nitro-
benzole with water, and keep it in stoppered
bottles. This substance is used as & factitious
oil of bitter almonds, being, although poison-
ous, far less so than the prussic acid of which
the real article consists. (Hager.)
4323. Urea. A crystalline, colorless,
transparent substance, consisting of cyanate
of ammonia. Fresh urine, gently evaporated
to the consistence of a syrup, is to be treated
with its own volume of nitric acid at 24 deg. ;
the mixture is to be shaken and immersed in
an ice-bath to solidify the crystals of nitrate
of urea; these are washed with ice-cold
water, drained, and pressed between sheets of
blotting paper. When they are thus separa-
ted from foreign matters, they are to be dis-
solved in water to which subcarbonate of pot-
ash is added, whereby the nitric acid is taken
up, and the urea set at liberty. This new
liquor is evaporated at a gentle heat, nearly
to dryness ; the residue is treated with pure
alcohol, which only dissolves the urea ; the so-
lution is concentrated, and the urea crystal-
fees. ( Tlienard. )
Or: Mix 28 parts of perfectly dry ferro-
cyanide of potassium with 14 parts of black
oxide of manganese, both pure and in fine
powder; then place them on a smooth iron
plate, and heat them to a dull red, over a
charcoal fire. When the mass begins to burn,
it must be frequently stirred ; after which
cool and dissolve in cold water, filter, an& add
20J parts of dry sulphate of ammonia, and
decant the clear from the precipitated sul-
phate of potassa. Concentrate at a heat be-
low 212°, again decant, evaporate to dryness,
and digest in boiling alcohol of 80g ; crystals
of urea will be deposited as the solution cools.
(Liebig.)
4324. Nitrate of TJrea. This may be
prepared as in last receipt from urea ; or by
saturating the artificial urea (Liebig's prepa-
ration) with nitric acid.
4325. Stearine. The solid portion of
fats which is insoluble in cold alcohol. Pure
strained mutton suet is melted in a glass flask
with 7 or 8 times its weight of ether, and the
solution allowed to cool ; the soft pasty mass
is then transferred to a cloth, and is strongly
pressed, as rapidly as possible, to avoid evap-
oration; the solid portion is then dissolved
again in ether, and the solution allowed to
crystallize. The product is nearly pure.
4326. Iodine. A chemical element
found both in the animal, vegetablet and
mineral kingdoms, but exists in greatest
abundance in sea-weed. It is principally
manufactured from the mother-waters of kelp.
Iodine is usually met with under the form of
semi-crystalline lumps, having a metallic
lustre, or friable scales, somewhat resembling
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4:03
gunpowder. It has a greyish-black color, a
hot, acrid taste, and a disagreeable odor not
much unlike that of chlorine. It fuses at
225° Fahr., volatilizes slowly at ordinary tem-
peratures, boils at 347°, and when mixed with
water rapidly rises along with its vapor at
212°. It dissolves in 7000 parts of water, and
freely in alcohol and ether. It may be crys-
tallized in large rhomboidal plates, by expos-
ing to the air a solution of it in hydriodic acid.
Iodine, like chlorine, has an extensive range
of affinity ; with the salifiable bases it forms
compounds termed IODIDES, IODTTRETS, or HY-
DRIODATES ; and it destroys vegetable colors.
4327. To Obtain Iodine. Saturate the
residual liquor of the manufacture of soap
from kelp (or other iodine lye) of a specific
gravity of 1.374, heated to 230° Fahr., with
sulphuric acid diluted with half its weight
of water ; cool, decant the clear, strain, and
to every 12 fluid ounces add 1000 grains of
black oxide of manganese, in powder; put
the mixture into a glass globe, or matrass
with a wide neck, over which invert another
glass globe, and apply heat with a charcoal
fire ; iodine will sublime very copiously, and
condense in the upper vessel, which, as soon
as warm, should be replaced by another ; and
the two globes thus applied in succession as
long as violet vapor arises. It may be
washed out of the globes with a little cold wa-
ter. A thin disc of wood, having a hole in its
centre, should be placed over the shoulder of
the matrass, to prevent the heat from acting
on the globular receiver. On the large scale,
a leaden still may be employed, and receivers
of stoneware economically substituted for
glass ones. The top of the leaden still is usu-
ally furnished with a moveable stopper, bv
which the process may be watched, and addi-
tions of manganese or sulphuric acid made, if
required. The addition of the sulphuric acid
should be made in a wooden or stoneware
basin or trough. To render the iodine pure,
it should be dried as much as possible, and
then resublimed in a glass or stoneware ves-
sel. (Urc.)
Or : Extract all the soluble part of kelp by
water, and crystallize the soda by evapora-
tion ; to the mother-lye add oil of vitriol in
excess, and boil the liquid, then strain it to
separate some sulphur, and mix the filtered
liquor with as much manganese as there was
oil of vitriol : on applying heat, the iodine
sublimes in the form of greyish-black scales,
with a metallic lustre. The boiling is con-
ducted in a leaden vessel ; and a cylindrical
leaden still with a very short head, and con-
nected with 2 or 3 large globular glass rceiv-
ers, is used for the subliming apparatus. Care
must be taken to watch the process, and pre-
vent the neck of the still becoming choked
with condensed iodine. ( Coolcy. )
4328. To Dissolve Iodine in Cod
Liver Oil. To effect this it is best to tritu-
rate the iodine with half its weight of iodide
of potassium, and to add gradually the oil so
as to form a uniform mixture. After standing
for a few hours all the iodide will be found at
the bottom of the flask, leaving the iodine in
perfect solution, the oil having but little of
its taste. (Eymael.)
4329. Tests for Iodine. Free iodine
may be recognized by — The violet color
of its vapor. — Striking a blue color with
starch ; this test is so delicate that water
containing only TtreWrr Par^ °f iodine acquires
a perceptible blue tinge on the addition of
starch. — Nitrate of silver causes a white pre-
cipitate in solutions containing iodine. — It
strikes a blue color with opium and narceine.
Iodine in combination, as it exists in iodic
acid and the iodates, does not strike a blue
color with starch, without the addition of
some deoxydizing agent, as sulphurous acid
or morphia; and as it exists in the iodides,
not uutil the base is saturated with an acid
(as the sulphuric or nitric), when iodine being
set free, immediately reacts upon the starch.
An excess of either acid or alkali destroys the
action of the test. By mixing the liquid con-
taining the iodine with the starch and sul-
phuric acid, and lightly pouring thereon a
small quantity of aqueous chlorine, a very
visible blue zone will be developed at the line
of contact. (Balard.) Solutions containing
iodates yield, with nitrate of silver, a white
precipitate, soluble in ammonia ; the iodides,
under the same circumstances, give a pale
yellowish precipitate with nitrate of silver,
scarcely soluble in ammonia ; a bright yellow
one with acetate of lead ; and a scarlet one
with bichloride of mercury. The iodates
deflagrate when thrown on burning coals,
but the iodides do not. The iodates may
also be tested as iodides, by first heating
them to redness, by which they lose their
oxygen, and are converted into iodides.
4330. Kelp. The alkaline ashes obtained
by burning various kinds of sea- weed.
4331. Galipot. A French term for thai,
portion of turpentine which concretes on the
trunk of the tree when wounded, and is re-
moved during the winter.
4332. Phosphorus. Phosphorus is a
pale yellow, semi-transparent, and highly com-
bustible solid; specific gravity 1.77 (water
standard) ; melts at 108° Fahr., and unites
with oxygen, forming acids, and with the
metals, forming PHOSPHIDES or PHOSPHURETS.
It is soluble in ether, naphtha, and the oils.
From its great inflammability it can only be
safely kept under water. In commerce it is
always packed in tin cylinders, soldered air-
tight. It is a powerful corrosive poison. The
specific gravity of its vapor is 4.327 (air
standard).
4333. To Obtain Phosphorus. Ground
bone-ash, 12 parts; water, 24 parts; mix to a
pap in a large tub, and add in a slender stream
(still stirring) oil of vitriol, 8 parts ; work well
together, adding more water if required ; in
24 hours thin with water, agitate well, and, if
convenient, heat the mixture in a leaden pan,
and as soon as the paste has lost its granular
character, transfer it into a series of tall casks ;
largely dilute with water, and, after settling,
decant the clear portion; wash the residue
well with water, mix the clear liquids, and
evaporate in a copper or lead pan, till the
calcareous deposit (gypsum) becomes consid-
erable, then cool, decant the clear, and drain
the sediment on a filter ; evaporate the clear
liquid to the consistence of honey (say to 4
parts), add 1 part of powdered charcoal, and
evaporate to dryness in an iron pot, or till the
bottom of the latter becomes red hot ; the dry
mixture, when cold, is put into earthen retorts
4,04,
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
well covered with luting and properly dried,
and heat is applied sideways rather than at
the bottom, by means of an air furnace. The
beak of the retort is connected with a copper
tube, the other end of which is made to dip
about i inch beneath the surface of lukewarm
water placed in a trough or wide-mouthed
bottle. The distilled product is purified by
squeezing it through chamois leather under
warm water, and is then moulded for sale by
melting it iinder water heated to about 145°
Fahr., plunging the wider end of a slightly
tapering but straight glass tube into the
water, sucking this up to the top of the glass,
so as to warm and wet it, next immersing the
end into the liquid phosphorus, and sucking it
up to any desired height. The bottom of the
tube being now closed with the finger, it is
withdrawn, and transferred to a pan of cold
water to congeal the phosphorus, which will
then commonly fall out, or may be easily ex-
pelled by pressure with a piece of wire. Keep
it in places where neither light nor heat has
access, in phials filled with cold water which
has been boiled, to expel all air, and enclose
the phials in opaque cases.
4334. Baldwin's Phosphorus. Heat
nitrate of lime till it melts ; keep it fused for
10 minutes, and pour it into a heated iron
ladle. When cool, break it into pieces, and
keep it in a closely-stoppered bottle. After
exposure to the sun's rays, it emits a white
light in the dark.
4335. Canton's Phosphorus. Put cal-
test tube by the heat of hot water, or add a
larger quantity to some oil of lavender, in
which it will dissolve spontaneously. Keep
in a close phial.
4340. Pyrophorus. This is a term
given to substances which inflate spontane-
ously when exposed to the air. "When a small
quantity of any of the powders given below
is exposed to the air, it rapidly becomes hot
and inflames. Their action is quicker in a
damp atmosphere, or by the moisture of the
breath.
4341. Homberg's Pyrophorus. Stir
equal parts of alum and brown sugar (or 3
parts alum and 1 part wheat flour) in an
iron ladle over the fire until dry ; then put it
into an earthen or coated glass phial, and keep
it at a red heat so long as flame is emitted ;
it must then be carefully stopped up and
cooled.
4342. Hare's Pyrophorus. Lampblack,
3 parts; burnt alum, 4 parts; carbonate of
potash, 8 parts ; as above.
4343. Gray Lussac's Pyrophorus.
Sulphate of potash, 9 parts ; calcined lamp-
black, 5 parts ; as last.
4344. Goebel's Pyrophorus. Heat
tartrate of lead red hot in a glass tube, and
then hermetically seal it.
4345. Dextrine or Starch Gum.
Heat 4 gallons water in a water-bath to be-
tween 77° and 86° Fahr.; stir in li or 2
pounds finely ground malt ; raise the temper-
ature to 140°, add 10 pounds potato or other
cined oyster shells in layers, alternately with starch ; mix all thoroughly, raise the heat to
sulphur, and heat strongly in a covered cruci-
ble for an hour. This is also luminous in the
dark after exposure to the sun.
4336. Phosphorus Bottles. Put 12
grains phosphorus with i ounce olive oil in
a 1 ounce phial ; and place it, loosely corked, in
a basin of hot water ; as soon as the phospho-
rus is melted, remove the phial, cork it se-
curely, and agitate it until nearly cold. On
being uncorked it emits sufficient light in the
dark to see the time by a watch, and will
retain this property for some years if not too
frequently employed.
4337. To Coat Phosphorus with Cop-
per. Dr. Siewert, of Halle, suggests a
method by which the sticks can be kept, even
in the light, without undergoing deteriora-
tion. For this purpose, he takes advantage
of the well-known property of phosphorus to
reduce some metals from their solutions. The
sticks of phosphorus are put into a cold satu-
rated solution of the sulphate of copper.
Presently they become coated with a deposit
of metallic copper, and in this state resemble
copper rods. They can now be removed to a
bottle containing water, and will keep for
years. When a stick is wanted for any pur-
pose, on removing the metallic film, and scra-
ping" off a black deposit underneath it, the
phosphorus will be found to have retained its
translucency, as if it had been freshly cast.
4338. To Reduce Phosphorus to
Powder. Melt the phosphorus in a phial
containing some fresh urine, or a solution of
pure urea, by the heat of hot water, and agi-
tate until cold. Rectified spirit may be
used instead of urine or urea. (Sec No. 1899.)
4339. Phosphorescent Oil. Dissolve
1 grain phosphorus in 1 ounce olive oil in a
r : Mix 500 parts potato starch with 1500
s of cold distilled water and 8 parts of
158°, and keep it between that and 167C for
20 or 30 minutes. When the liquor becomes
thin, instantly raise the heat to the boiling
point, to prevent the formation of sugar.
Strain the liquor, and evaporate it to dryness,
as the dextrine will not keep long in a 'liquid
form. Another method is to boil solution of
starch with a few drops of sulphuric acid, fil-
ter the solution, and add alcohol to throw
down the dextrine.
Or:
parts
pure oxalic acid; place this mixture in a suit-
able vessel on a water-bath, and heat until a
small sample tested with iodine solution does
not produce the reaction of starch. "When
this is found to be the case, immediately re-
move the vessel from the water-bath, and
neutralize the liquid with pure carbonate of
lime. After having been left standing for a
couple of days the liquor is filtered, and the
clear filtrate evaporated upon a water-bath
until the mass has become quite a pa.*tc,
which is removed by a spatula, and, having
been made into a thin cake, is placed upon
paper and further dried in a warm place ; 2*0
parts of pure dextrine are thus obtained. (See
No. 2925.)
4346. Albumen. A substance which
enters largely into the composition of animal
bodies. It is scarcely soluble in water, but
dissolves readily by adding to the water a
small portion of caustic soda or potassa.
White of egg is a solution of albumen.
4347. To Make Albumen. Expose
the strained white of egg, or the serum of
bullock's blood in a thin stratum, to a current
of dry air, until it hardens into a solid trans-
parent substance.
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4:05
Or : Agitate strained -white of egg with 10
or 12 times its bulk of alcohol, and collect
the flocculent precipitate on a muslin filter.
Dry it at a temperature not over 120° Fahr.
4348. Tests for Albumen. A solution
of bichloride i>f mercury dropped into a fluid
containing albumen, occasions a white preci-
pitate. Tannin or tincture of galls gives a
yellow, pitchy precipitate.
4349. Sulphur. Sulphur or brimstone
is usually of a pale yellow color ; melts to a
clear, thin fluid, and volatile at about 232°
Fahr., when it inflames spontaneously in the
open air, and burns with a bluish flame. It
is insoluble in water and in alcohol ; soluble in
turpentine and fat oils, and freely so in bisul-
phuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa.
"With oxygen it forms sulphuric and sulphur-
ous acids, and with the metals it combines as
SULPHURETS or SULPHIDES. Its specific gravity
is from 1.982 to 2.045 (water standard). The
specific gravity of its vapor is 6.648 (air
standard).
4350. Amorphous or Brown Sul-
phur. Prepared Irom sublimed sulphur by
melting it, increasing the heat to 320° Fahr.,
and continuing it at that temperature for about
30 minutes, or until it becomes brown and
viscid ; it is then poured into water. It is
now ductile like wax, may be easily moulded,
and when cooled does not again become fluid
below 600° Fahr.
4351. Precipitated Sulphur. Sub-
limed sulphur, 1 part; dry slacked lime, 2 parts;
water, 25 parts ; boil for 2 or 3 hours, dilute
with 25 parts more water, filter, precipitate
by muriatic acid, and drain ; well wash, and
dry the precipitate. Resembles sublimed sul-
phur in its general properties, but is much
paler, and in a finer state of division.
4352. To Purify Precipitated Sul-
phur. The precipitated sulphur of the shops
contains about two-thirds of its weight of sul-
phate of lime (plaster of Paris), owing to the
substitution of sulphuric for muriatic acid in
its preparation. This fraud is detected by
heating a little of the suspected sample in an
iron spoon or shovel, when the sulphur is
volatilized, and leaves behind the sulphate
of lime, which, when mixed with water and
gently dried, gives "the amount of the adul-
teration. A still simpler plan is to dissolve
out the sulphur with a little hot oil of turpen-
tine or liquor of potassa.
4353. Roll Sulphur. Crude sulphur,
purified by melting and skimming it, is
poured into cylindrical moulds. Common
roll sulphur freqiiently contains from 3 to 7
per cent, of yellow arsenic.
4354. Sublimed Sulphur. Sometimes
called Flowers of Sulphur. This is prepared
by subliming sulphur in iron vessels. For
medical purposes it is well washed with
water and dried by a gentle heat. (Cooley.)
An aqueous solution of pure anhydrous car-
bonate of soda will dissolve an appreciable
quantity of flowers of sulphur, by digesting
for 10 hours at 212° Fahr. (Pole.)
4355. Sulphur Vivum. Crude native
sulphur, or blach sulphur, is of a grey or mouse-
colored powder. The same names are given
to the residuum in the subliming pots, after
the preparation of flowers of sulphur ; it gen-
erally contains arsenic.
4356. Tersulphuret of Arsenic. The
tersulphuret or tcrsulphide of arsenic is a fine
golden yellow substance in lumps or powder.
It is found, ready formed, m nature, or is pre-
pared artificially by sublimation from arseni-
ous acid and sulphur. The artificial sul-
phuret, King's Yellow, often contains 80 to 90
per cent, of white arsenic.
4357. Camphor. The camphor of com-
merce is a natural production. It is princi-
pally extracted from the laurel camphor tree,
but it is also found in several other members
of the vegetable kingdom. It is a white, semi-
crystalline solid, very volatile at common
temperatures ; soluble in alcohol, ether, oils,
and acetic acid, and slightly but sufficiently
so in water to impart its characteristic smell
and taste. The Chinese and Japanese extract
the camphor by cutting the wood into small
pieces, and boiling it with water in iron ves-
sels— which are covered with large earthen
capitals or domes — lined with rice straw.
As the water boils, the camphor is volatilized
along with the steam, and condenses on the
straw, under the form of greyish granulations.
In this state it is collected and transported to
Europe, when it undergoes the process of re-
fining into white camphor. To refine it, 100
parts of crude camphor are mixed with 2
parts each of quicklime and animal charcoal,
and placed in a thin globular glass vessel
sunk in a sand-bath. The heat is then cau-
tiously applied, and the vessel gradually and
carefully raised out of the sand as the sub-
limation goes on. When this is completed,
the whole is allowed to cool. If the process
be conducted too slowly, or at a heat under
375° Fahr., the product will be flaky, and con-
sequently unsaleable, without remelting or
subliming.
4358. To Pulverize Camphor. Cam-
phor may be beaten in a mortar for some
time, without being reduced to powder, but
if it be first broken with the pestle, and then
sprinkled with a few drops of spirit of wine,
it may be readily pulverized. By adding
water to an alcoholic or ethereal solution of
camphor, it is precipitated under the form of
an impalpable powder of exquisite whiteness,
which may be collected and spontaneously
dried on a filter; the addition of a minute
quantity of carbonate of magnesia to the
water (say 1 drachm for each 16 ounces of
camphor), before mixing it with the camphor
solution, will prevent the powdered camphor
from hardening again after drying.
4359. Glycerine. This is a sweet, syrupy
liquid, formed during the saponification of oils
and fats. Its various uses will be found em-
bodied in their respective receipts.
4360. To Obtain Commercial Gly-
cerine. The sweet stearine liquor of the
stearine manufacturers is used for this pur-
pose. The lime contained in it is precipitated
by a stream of carbonic acid gas, or by a solu-
tion of carbonate of soda, carefully avoiding
adding the latter in excess ; the liquor thus
obtained is then boiled a little, filtered, and
evaporated to a syrupy consistence. Glycer-
ine is also obtained from the water and wash-
ings left in the manufacture of lead or litharge
plaster, by mixing them together, filtering,
and submitting them to the action of a
stream of sulphuretted hydrogen, which pre-
406
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
cipitates the lead; the clear liquid, after
settling, is decanted, filtered, and evapora-
ted to the consistence of syrup, in a -water-
bath.
4361. Solvent Power of Glycerine.
Klever gives the following parts of various
chemicals soluble in 100 parts glycerine.
PABTS.
Arsenious acid 20
Arsenic acid 20
Benzoic acid 10
Boracicacid 10
Oxalicacid 15
Tannicacid 50
Alum 40
Carbonate of ammonia 20
Muriate of ammonia 20
Tartrate of antimony and potassa 5.50
Atropia 3
Sulphate of atropia 33
Chloride of barium 10
Brucia 2.25
Sulphide of calcium 5
Quinine 50
Sulphate of quinine 6.70
Tannate of quinia 25
Acetate of copper 10
Sulphate of copper 30
Tartrate of iron and potassa 8
Lactate of iron 16
Sulphate of iron 25
Corrosive sublimate 7.50
Cyanide of mercury 27
Iodine 1.90
Morphia 45
Acetate of morphia 20
Muriate of morphia 20
Phosphorus 20
Acetate of lead 20
Arseniate of potassa 50
Chlorate of potassa 3.50
Bromide of potassium 25
Cyanide of potassium 32
Iodide of potassium 40
Arseniate of soda 50
Bicarbonate of soda 8
Borate of soda 60
Carbonate of soda 98
Chlorate of soda 20
Sulphur 10
Strychnia 25
Nitrate of strychnia 4
Sulphate of strychnia 22.50
Urea 50
Veratria 1
Chloride of zinc 50
Iodide of zinc 40
Sulphate of zinc 35
4362. To Purify Glycerine. Commer-
cial glycerine is rendered pure by diluting it
with water ; it is then decolored with a little
animal charcoal (see No. 1729), filtered, and
evaporated to the consistence of a thin syrup,
after which it is further evaporated in a
vacuum, or over sulphuric acid, until it ac-
quires a specific gravity of 1.265.
4363. To Purify Glycerine. Bottles
sent out from wholesale and manufacturing
houses, labeled, "Pure Glycerine," do not
always contain what their labels declare.
Some samples called pure are rich in lead,
others contain chlorine, most are diluted with
water, and the best is generally acid. It is
necessary, therefore, to purify even the best
samples by digesting them for several days
with powdered chalk, allowing the latter to
subside, and decanting. (Schacht.)
4364. Tests for the Purity of Glycer-
ine. Pure glycerine has a neutral reaction,
and on evaporation in a porcelain dish leaves
only a very slight carbonaceous crust, while
the impure has a much greater percentage of
coaly matter. The pure article does not be-
come brown when treated, drop by drop, with
concentrated sulphuric acid, even after several
hours ; the impure becomes brown even when
but slightly adulterated. Pure glycerine,
treated with pure nitric acid and a solution of
nitrate of silver, does not become cloudy,
while the impure exhibits a decidedly milky
appearance. Sometimes the impure article
becomes blackened with the sulphide of am-
monium. Oxalatc of ammonia produces a
black clouding ; lime-water sometimes causes
a milky discoloration. Pure glycerine, how-
ever, constantly remains perfectly uncolored,
and clear as water, the impure becoming col-
ored to a greater or less extent. If a few
drops are rubbed between the fingers, pure
glycerine causes no fatty smell ; the contrary
is,, the case with the impure, especially if a few
drops of dilute sulphuric acid be introduced.
(Roller.) (See No. 1151.)
4365. Gelatine. Animal jelly obtained
by heat from the organic tissue of the bones,
tendons, and ligaments, the cellular tissue, the
skin, and the serous membranes in contact
with water. Glue and size are coarse varie-
ties of this substance, prepared from hoofs,
hides, skins, <fec.; and isinglass is a purer .kind,
prepared from the air-bladders and some other
membranes of fish. Gelatine is insoluble in
cold water, but dissolves with greater or less
readiness on the application of heat, forming
a tremulous and transparent jelly on cool-
ing. It is insoluble in alcohol or ether, and
is decomposed by strong alkali or acid.
4366. To Obtain Gelatine from Bones.
The bones of good meat form most excellent
materials for making soups and gravies, as is
well known to every good cook. In France,
soup is extensively made by dissolving bruised
bones in a steam heat of 2 or 3 days' continu-
ance, and also by dissolving out the earthy
part by digestion in weak muriatic acid, when
a lump of gelatine is obtained, which, after
being well washed with water, will dissolve
by boiling, and is equal to isinglass for all the
purposes of making soups find jellies. Proust
has recommended the following process for
making bone gelatines : Crash the bones
small, then boil them for 15 minutes in a ket-
tle of water, cool, and skim the fat off, which
is fit for all common purposes. The bones
are then ground, and boiled in 8 to 10 times
their weight of water, of. which that already
used must form a part, until evaporated to
one-half, when a very nutritious jelly is ob-
tained. A copper vessel should not be used,
as the jelly acts upon this metal. An iron
digester is the most suitable. The bones of
boiled meat are nearly as productive as those
of fresh meat, but roasted meat bones scarcely
afford any jelly.
4367. Bone Gelatine. The bones are
boiled to remove the fat, then digested in di-
luted muriatic acid till the earthy matter of
the bone is dissolved. The gelatine, which
TESTS OR REAGENTS.
407
retains the form of the bone, is washed in a
stream of water, plunged in hot water, and
again in cold, to remove all remains of acid,
and sometimes put into a solution of carbonate
of soda. "When well washed, it is dried on
open baskets or nets. By steeping the raw
gelatine in cold water, dissolving it in boiling
water, evaporating the jelly, and cutting it
into tablets, it may be dried and preserved in
that form.
4368. Nelson's Patent Gelatine. This
is made from cuttings of the hides of cattle,
and skins of calves. These, freed from hair,
flesh, fat, <fcc., are washed and scoured, then
macerated for 10 days in a lye of caustic soda,
and afterwards placed in covered vessels at a
temperature of 60° to 70° Pahr. until they
become tender ; then washed from the alkali,
exposed to the vapor of burning sulphur until
they become sensibly acid, dissolved in earthen
vessels heated to 150°, strained, put jpto
settling vessels heated to 100° or 120° for
nine hours, the clear liquor drawn off and
poured on the cooling slabs to the depth of £
an inch. When cold, the jelly is cut in
pieces, washed till free from acid, redissolved
at 85°, poured on slabs, cut up, and dried on
nets.
4369. Gelatine Wafers. Dissolve fine
glue or isinglass in water, so that the solution,
when cold, may be consistent. Pour it hot
on a plate of glass (previously warmed with
steam and slightly greased), fitted in a metal-
lic frame whose edges are just as high as the
wafers should be thick. Lay on the surface a
Becond glass plate, also hot and greased, so as
to touch every point of the gelatine while
resting on the edges of the frame. By its
pressure the thin cake is rendered uniform.
When the glass plates have cooled, the gela-
tine will be solid, and may be removed. It is
cut into discs of different sizes by means of
proper punches.
4370. Tests for Gelatine. Gelatine
dissolved in water is recognized by forming a
jelly on cooling ; it is precipitated by alcohol;
corrosive sublimate throws down a whitish,
flocculent precipitate; a solution of tannin,
or an infusion of galls, gives a curdy, yellow-
ish-white precipitate, which, on being stirred,
coheres into an elastic mass, insoluble in wa-
ter, and, when dry, assumes the appearance of
over-tanned leather.
4371. Asbestos. A natural substance,
resembling flax, capable of withstanding un-
changed a considerable degree of heat; it
may, therefore, be cleansed or purified by fire.
It is also called Amianthus.
TestS Or Reagents. These are
substances employed to determine the
name or character of any other substance, or
to detect its presence in compounds. They
are used in both the solid and fluid state ;
generally the latter, when they are known
as liquid tests. Their application as reagents
is called testing. . For this purpose they are
commonly added drop by drop to the liquid
to be tested, contained in a test-tube or test-
glass. A simple way of employing them is to
place a few drops or a small portion of the
liquid or substance for examination on a slip
of common white glass, and to add to them a
drop of the test liquid. By placing the glass
over a sheet of white paper, the effect will be
rendered more perceptible.
A number of tests, not included here, refer-
ring to substances which hold a prominent
place in some special process, have been in-
troduced in immediate connection with the
description of those substances, and will be
found in the index under the head of the arti-
cle to be tested.
4373. Test for Chicory in Coffee.
Place a spoonful of ground coffee gently on
the surface of a glass of cold water. The
pure coffee will float for some time, and
scarcely color the water ; the chicory, if any
be present, rapidly absorbs the water and sinks
to the bottom, communicating a deep reddish-
brown tint as it falls.
Or a spoonful of ground coffee may be
placed in a small bottle of cold water, and
shaken for a moment ; if the sample of coffee
is pure, it will rise to the surface and hardly
tinge the water, whilst if the coffee is adul-
terated with chicory, the latter will fall to
the bottom and color the water as before. A
similar coloration of the water will be pro-
duced, however, if the coffee be adulterated
with burnt sugar, which is the basis of the so-
called "coffee essences or extracts."
.4374. To Test Tea. Pure China tea ia
not turned black by being put into water im-
pregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas,
nor does it tinge spirit of hartshorn blue.
The infusion is amber-colored, and is not
reddened by adding a few drops of oil of vitriol
to it.
4375. To Detect Copper in Liquids.
Spirit of hartshorn turns them blue. There-
fore tea has not been dried on copper if an
infusion of it is not turned blue by this mix-
ture. Cider, being passed through brass
pots, is detected by this experiment.
4376. To Detect Watered Milk. The
cheapest and easiest method of adulterating
milk is by adding water, and we may readily
ascertain the exact extent of adulteration by
the following plan. If a glass tube, divided
into 100 parts, be filled with milk and left
standing ior 24 hours, the cream will rise to
the upper part of the tube, and occupy from
11 to 13 divisions, if the milk is genuine.
4377. To Detect Chalk in Milk. Di-
lute the milk with water ; the chalk, if there be
any, will settle to the bottom in an hour or
two ; put to the sediment an acid, vinegar for
instance, and if effervescence take place it is
chalk.
4378. To Detect Mineral Substances
in Flour. The presence of a mineral adul-
teration of flour or meal may bo readily de-
tected. A small quantity of the suspected
flour is shaken up in a glass tube with chloro-
form. All mineral adulterations will collect
at the bottom, while the flour will float on
the liquid.
4379. How to Know Good Flour.
"When flour is genuine or of the best kind, it
holds together in a mass when squeezed by the
hand, and shows the impressions of the fin-
gers, and even of the marks of the skin, much
longer than when it is bad or adulterated;
and the dough made with it is very gluey,
4:08
TESTS OR REAGENTS.
ductile, and elastic, easy to be kneaded ; and
may be flattened and drawn in every direc-
tion without breaking.
4380. To Detect Adulterations in
Sugar. Sugar is largely adulterated. Pure
cane and beet sugars may be known by their
solutions bending the luminous rays in cir-
cumpolarization to the right, whereas grape
and fecula sugars bend it to the left. Pure
cane sugar boiled in a solution of caustic po-
tassa remains colorless, but if starch sugar is
present the liquid turns brown. A filtered
solution of 33 grains cane or beet sugar in 1
ounce water, mixed with 3 grains pure caustic
potassa, and then agitated with li grains sul-
phate of copper in a close vessel, remains
clear, even after the lapse of several days;
but if starch sugar is present, a red precipi-
tate is formed after some time, and if present
in considerable quantity, the copper will be
•wholly converted into oxide within 24 hours;
the solution first turns blue or green, and then
entirely loses its color. Of late years moist
sugar has been largely adulterated with the
sweet waste liquor (solution of glycerine,) of
the stearine manufactories; but this fraud
may be detected by its inferior sweetness,
and by its moist and dirty appearance.
4381. Test for Starch. The old and
familiar test for starch is the blue color which
free iodine produces when brought in contact
with it ; but this is not the only reagent J>y
means of which we can detect the presence of
starch in combination with similar bodies.
Bromine is nearly as good as iodine, and
tannin is said, in some instances, to be better.
A solution of 50 grains tannin in \ pint dis-
tilled water will answer for making the test.
A drop of this tannin solution will cause a
precipitate in extremely dilute solutions of
starch; the precipitate dissolves when
warmed and reappears when the solution
cools ; and where the starch paste is old, the
reaction is said to be more sensitive than
that of iodine.
4382. To Test Arrow-Boot. Genuine
arrow-root is odorless and tasteless, and pro-
duces a sort of crackling noise when pressed
or rubbed, and emits no peculiar odor when
mixed with muriatic acid. Stirred up in a
mortar with double its weight of a mixture of
equal parts of aqua-fortis -and water, it does
not become gelatinous and adhesive in less
than 15 minutes.
4383. To Detect Arsenic in Colored
Paper. Take a fragment of the paper and
put it into a solution of ammonia. If arsenic
be present the liquid will assume a bluish
color. In case a further test is required, pour
a little of the ammoniacal solution on crystals
of nitrate of silver, and arsenic, if present,
will show itself by leaving a yellow deposit
on the crystals. As arsenic is used in coloring
all qualities of paper, from the cheapest to
the costliest, a knowledge of this test will be
of service. v
4384. To Detect Gum Arabic in Gum
Tragacanth. Make the gum into a clear
mucilage, and filter carefully ; pour strong al-
cohol upon it, and if it retains its solubility
and transparency, no gum arabic is present,
but if it becomes opaque, or deposits a pow-
der at the bottom, it contains gum arabic or
some similar substance.
4385. To Test Slates. The test of a
superior slate is its ability to remain unbro-
ken, after being made red hot in a furnace
and suddenly immersed in cold water while
at that heat.
4386. To Test Silver or Gold. For
testing gold or silver, slightly wet the metal
and rub gently with lunar caustic. If gen-
uine gold or silver the mark will be faint ; but
if an inferior metal it will be quite black.
4387. To Test Mushrooms, The fol-
lowing are said to be tests of the wholesome-
ness of mushrooms : Sprinkle a little salt on
the spongy part or gills of the sample to be
tried : if they turn yellow, they are poison-
ous ; if black, they are wholesome.
False mushrooms have a warty cap, or else
fragments of membrane adhering to the upper
surface ; are heavy, and emerge from a vulva
or bag ; they grow in tufts or clusters in
wqpds, on the stumps of trees, &c. ; whereas
the true mushrooms grow in pastures.
False mushrooms have an astringent,
styptic, and disagreeable taste; when cut
they turn blue ; they are moist on the surface,
and are generally of a rose or orange color.
The gills of the true mushroom are of a
pinky red, changing to a liver color ; the flesh
is white ; the stem is white, solid, and cylin-
drical.
Introduce a silver spoon, or an onion, into
a vessel in which mushrooms are seething ; if,
on taking either of them out, they assume a
dark, discolored appearance, the circumstance
denotes the presence of poison existing among
them; if, on the other hand, the metal or
onion, on being withdrawn from the liquor,
wears its natural appearance, the fruit may
be regarded as genuine, and of the right
sort.
Eub the upper skin with a gold ring or any
piece of gold : the part rubbed will turn yel-
low if it is a poisonous fungus.
4388. To Test the Hardness of
Water. Hard water contains more or less
carbonate of lime ; the presence of this sub-
stance in waters is tested thus : Soap, or a so-
lution of soap in proof spirit, mixes easily and
perfectly withjn<re water, but is curdled and
precipitated in water containing carbonates,
chlorides, or sulphates. The degree of hard-
ness of water depends on the amount of car-
bonate of lime held in it in solution, and is
ascertained as follows : Dissolve 1 drachm
finest white soap in 1 pint proof spirit ; so ad-
just the strength (if not already so) that ex-
actly 32 measures are required to be added to
100 measures of the standard solution of
chloride of calcium (see No. 4786), before a
lather can be produced. Every measure of
this test solution of soap and alcohol, which is
required to produce the same effect on 100
measures of a sample of hard water, represents
^ grain of carbonate of lime or -J° of hardness ;
2 measures equal 1° of hardness or 1 grain of
carbonate per gallon, &c.
4389. To Test the Purity of Borax.
Its strength is best ascertained by the quanti-
ty of sulphuric acid required to neutralize a
given weight of borax. (See Alkalimetry.)
The impurities in borax are common salt and
alum, which are mixed with it to lower the
value.
Common salt may be detected by a solution
TESTS OR REAGENTS.
409
of the borax in hot water yielding with nitrate
of silver a curdy white precipitate which is
soluble in ammonia; this must be distin-
guished from the white pulverulent precipitate
of borate of silver which will be thrown down
from pure borax.
The presence of alum is determined by
addition of ammonia water to a solution of
the borax giving a bulky white precipitate.
4390. To Test the Purity of Musk.
Musk is often largely adulterated with dried
blood, the presence of which may be detected
by the inferiority of the .odor; by an assay
for the iron contained in the blood ; or by
microscopic examination. The ashes left
after burning pure musk are neither red nor
yellow, but grey, and should not exceed 6 per
cent, of the amount burned.
4391. To Test the Purity of Amber-
gris. From the high price of the genuine
ambergris, it is very frequently adulterated.
When quite pure and of the best quality it is
nearly wholly soluble in hot alcohol and
ether, and yields about 85 per cent, of the
odorous principle (ambrehie). It is also
easily punctured with a heated needle, and on
withdrawing it not only should the odor be
immediately evolved, but the needle should
come out clean, without anything adhering
to it.
4392. To Test Diamonds. If you
have a doubtful stone, put it into a leaden or
platinum cup, with some powdered fluor-spar
and a little oil of vitriol; warm the vessel
over some lighted charcoal, in a fireplace, or
wherever there is a strong draught to carry
away the noxious vapors that will be copi-
ously evolved. "WTien these vapors have
ceased rising let the whole cool, and then stir
the mixture with a glass rod to fish out the
diamond. If you find it intact it is a genuine
stone ; but if it is false it will be corroded by
the hydrofluoric acid that has been generated
around it. A small paste diamond would dis-
appear altogether under the treatment. This
test is given by Massimo Levi, an Italian
chemist.
4393. Test for the Presence of Blood.
Gunning has discovered in acetate of zinc a
reagent that precipitates the slightest traces
of the coloring matter of blood from solutions,
even where the liquids are so dilute as to be
colorless. Blood washed from the hands in a
pail of water can readily be detected in this
way. The flocculent precipitate thrown
down by acetate of zinc must be washed by
decautation, and finally collected on a watch-
glass, and allowed to dry, when the micro-
scope will readily reveal crystals if any blood
be present. (Sec No. 6415.)
4394. Test for the Presence of a Free
Acid. Dissolve chloride of silver in just suf-
ficient ammonia to make a clear solution. If
a little of the test be added to ordinary sprirfg
water, the carbonic acid present in the latter
will neutralize the ammonia and precipitate
the chloride. The above forms a good lec-
ture experiment, the test being a very delicate
one.
4395. Permanganate of Potassa as a
Test for Organic Matter. As a test for
organic matter in air and water, its accuracy
has been called in question, on the ground
that it does not attack all kinds of organic
matter with equal facility — some, as starch,
resisting its action for a long time. It must
be admitted, however, that it is, at present,
the only practical test that we have, and cer-
tainly shows very rapidly and clearly the
presence of hurtful organic matter in water
or in air. It can be applied by any one, it
being only necessary to use a weak solution ;
the disappearance of the color indicates the
presence of organic matter. In time of epi-
demics, such as cholera or dysentery, this
test might be of much value in singling out
the contaminated from the pure water. It is,
perhaps, well also to recall the fact that this
test forms the readiest means of purifying
foul water.
4396. Trommer's Test for the Pres-
ence of Sugar in Urine. Put some of the
suspected urine into a large test-tube, and
add a few drops of solution of sulphate of
copper, then sufficient solution of potash to
render it strongly alkaline. If sugar be pres-
ent, the precipitated oxide redissolves into a
blue liquid, and on boiling red oxide of copper
is precipitated. "White merino that has been
wet with a solution of bichloride of tin is said
to form a ready test for sugar in urine, &c.
A portion wet with the suspected liquor, and
exposed to 260° to 300° of heat, becomes
blackened if sugar is present.
4397. Quantitative Test for Sugar in
TJrine. Dissolve 400 grains pure crystallized
sulphate of copper in 1600 grains of distilled
water; add this gradually to a solution of
1600 grains neutral tartrate of potash in a
little water mixed with 6000 or 7000 grains
solution of caustic soda of 1.12 specific grav-
ity. Add water to make up the whole 11,544
grain measures. 1000 grain measures are
equivalent to 5 grains of grape sugar.
4398. Pettenkofer's Test for Bile in
Urine, &c. Put a small quantity of the sus-
pected liquid into a test-tube, and add to it,
drop by drop, strong sulphuric acid till it be-
comes warm, taking care not to raise the
temperature above 122° Pahr. Then add
from 2 to 5 drops of syrup, made with 5 parts
sugar to 4 of water, and shake the mixture.
If the liquid contain bile, a violet coloration
is observed. Acetic acid, and those substan-
ces which are converted into sugar by sul-
phuric acid, may be substituted for sugar.
4399. To Detect Sulphur in Coal-Gas.
The presence of sulphur in coal-gas can be
proved in the following simple manner :
Let a platinum basin be filled with a pint
of water, and the basin be heated over a
spirit lamp until all the liquid has evaporated ;
the basin will be found to be coated on the
outside, where it has been struck by the flame,
with a dirty, greasy looking substance, which,
on being washed off with pure distilled water,
and tested, proves to be sulphuric acid. The
glass chimneys used with Argand gas-burners
soon become coated over internally with a
white substance, which, on being washed off
with distilled water, will be found to be, on
testing, sulphate of ammonia. The glass
panes of a room wherein gas is burned for
a few evenings consecutively, will, when rub-
bed with the fingers of a clean hand, impart
to it a substance which, on the hand being
rinsed in distilled water, will yield a precipi
tate of sulphate, of baryta with chloride o/.
4rlO
TEST PAPERS.
barium, and a brick-red precipitate with po-
tassio-iodide of mercury.
4400. Test for Benzole. For distin-
guishing genuine benzole, or that made of
coal tar, from that prepared from petroleum.
Brandberg recommends us to place a small
piece of pitch in a testing tube, and pour
over it some of the substance to be examined.
The genuine will immediately dissolve the
pitch to a tar-like mass, while that derived
from petroleum will scarcely be colored. (See
Nos. 4320 and 4321.)
4401. To Detect Cotton in Linen.
Unravel a piece of the fabric, both warp and
weft, and plunge it into a solution of aniline
and fuchsine. This will dye the whole red.
Take it out, wash it, and while moist dip into
ammonia ; the cotton threads will lose their
color, while the linen will remain red. (See
No 296, <fc.)
4402. Hahnemann's Test for Lead in
Wine. Take 1 ounce quick-lime, 1$ ounces
flowers of sulphur; heat in a covered crucible
for 5 or 6 minutes; take 2 drachms of this
compound Cwhich is sulphuret of lime), 2
drachms tartaric acid; powder, mix, and
Bhake in a stoppered bottle with a pint of
water ; let it settle, pour off the clear liquid,
and add li ounces tartaric acid. The above
test will throw down the least quantity of
lead from wines, as a very sensible black pre-
cipitate.
4403. Paris Test for Lead in Wine.
Expose equal parts of sulphur and powdered
oyster shells to a white heat for 15 minutes,
and, when cold, add an equal quantity of
cream of tartar ; these are to be put into a
strong bottle, with common water, to boil for
an hour, and the solution is afterwards to be
decanted into ounce phials, adding 20 drops
muriatic acid to each. Both the above tests
will throw down the least quantity of lead from
wines, as a very senible black precipitate.
As iron might be accidentally contained in
the wine, the muriatic acid is added, to pre-
vent the precipitation of that metal. This
acts in the same manner as Hahnemann's test.
(See No. 4402.)
4404. To Distinguish Artificially
Colored Wines. As the real coloring mat-
ter of wine is of difficult solubility in water
free from tartaric acid, Blume proposes to
make this fact of practical use in testing the
purity of wine. A crumb of bread saturated
in the supposed wine is placed in a plate of
water ; if artificially colored, the water soon
partakes of the color; but if natural, a slight
opalescence only will be perceptible after a
quarter of an hour.
4405. To Detect Logwood in Wine.
M. Lapeyrnere, having observed that b.83rna-
tine, the coloring principle of logwood, gives
a sky-blue color in the presence of salts of
copper, proposes the following test for log-
wood in wines: Paper is saturated with a
strong solution of neutral acetate of copper,
and dried. A strip of this is dipped into the
suspected liquor, and, after removal, the ad-
hering drops are made to move to and fro
over the paper, which is finally to bo care-
fully dried. If the wine contain logwood, the
paper will assume a violet-blue color; but
if the wine possess its natural coloring mat-
ter the paper will have a grey tint.
4406. To Detect Artificial Coloring
in Wine. TJse, as test liquid, a solution of
potash and a solution of liquid ammonia and
potash.
If the wine is colored by the coloring
matter of the grape, potash changes the red
color to a bottle green or brownish-green ; am-
monia changes the color to brownish-green or
greenish-brown; a solution of alum to which
some potash has been added gives a dirty
grey precipitate.
If the wine is artificially colored, potash
gives the following colored precipitates :
Dwarf elder, mulberry, or beet root give a
violet precipitate ; pokeweed berries, a yellow;
Indian wood, a violet red; pernambuco, a
red ; litmus, a violet blue ; orchil or cudbear,
a dirty lees color.
Or : Pour into the wine to be tested a so-
lution of alum, and precipitate the alumina it
contains, by adding potash, and the precipi-
tates will have the same characteristic colors
as above.
4407. Test for Bum. Dr. Wiederbold
proposes the following method for distinguish-
ing between true rum and the factitious
liquid sold under this name : Mix a little of
the rum to bo tested with about a third of its
bulk of sulphuric acid, and allow the mixture
to stand. If the rum is genuine its peculiar
odor remains after the liquid has cooled, and
even after 24 hours' contact may still be dis-
tinguished. If, on the contrary, the rum is
not genuine, contact with sulphuric acid
promptly and entirely deprives it of all its
aroma.
Test Papers. These consist of
paper which has been wetted thorough-
ly and uniformly with a solution of some ap-
propriate substance, dried and cut into conve-
nient strips, and is used to test, by its change
of color, the presence of some other substance
known to produce that change. This is
effected by dipping a strip of the proper
test paper into, or wetting it with, the liquor
to be tested, and the effect noted.
4409. Brazil-wood Test Paper. Made
by preparing the paper with a decoction of
Brazil-wood. Alkalies turn it purple or violet ;
strong acids, red.
4410. Buckthorn Test Paper. From
a decoction of the berries; is reddened by
acids.
441 1 . Cherry-juice Test Paper. From
the juice of cherries ; has the r.anio properties
as buckthorn paper.
4412. Dahlia Test Paper. Made from
an infusion of the petals of the violet dahlia
(georgina purpurea); alkalies turn it green;
acids, red ; strong caustic alkalies turn it
yellow. This is a very delicate test paper.
The juice of elderberries will make a similar
test paper.
4413. Indigo Test Paper. From a
solution of indigo ; loses its color in contact
with chlorine.
4414. Iodide of Potassium Test
Paper. From a solutian of it in distilled
water ; turned blue by an acidulated solution
of starch.
FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS.
4,11
4415. Starch and Iodine Test Paper.
Prepared by mixing starch paste with iodide
of potassium ; turned blue by chlorine, ozone,
and the mineral acids, and by the air contain-
ing them.
4416. Lead Test Paper. From a solu-
tion of either acetate or diacetate of lead;
used as a test for sulphuretted hydrogen and
hydrosulphuret of ammonia, which turn it
black.
4417. Blue Litmus Test Paper. Trit-
urate 1 ounce litmus in a wedgwood-ware
mortar with 3 or 4 fluid ounces boiling water ;
put the mixture into a flask, and add more
boiling water until the liquid measures fully
•J- pint ; agitate it frequently until cold, then
filter it ; divide the filtered fluid into 2 equal
portions, stir one portion with a glass rod
dipped into very dilute sulphuric acid, repeat-
ing this until the liquid begins to be very
slightly tinged red, then add the other portion
and mix them thoroughly. Prepare the paper
with this infusion. Acids turn it red ; alka-
lies, green. The neutral salts of most of the
heavy metallic oxides redden this as well as
the other blue test papers that are affected by
acids.
4418. Red Litmus Paper. Treat the
whole of a blue infusion, made as above, with
the rod dipped in dilute sulphuric acid until
it turns distinctly red. Alkalies, alkaline
earths, and their sulphurets, restore its blue
color; alkaline carbonates and the soluble
borates produce the same effect. Red litmus
paper may also be made by holding a strip
of the blue litmus paper over a jar into which
2 or 3 drops of muriatic (hydrochloric) acid
have been thrown.
4419. Mallow Test Paper. From an
infusion of the purple flowers of tho common
mallow.
4420. Manganese Test Paper. From
a solution of sulphate of manganese ; turns
black by contact with ozone.
4421. Rhubarb Test Paper. From a
strong infusion of the powdered root ; alkalies
turn it brown, but boracic acid and its salts
do not affect it.
4422. Rose Test Paper. Made with a
strong infusion of the petals of the red rose ;
alkalies turn it a bright green.
4423. Starch Test Paper. From a
cold decoction of starch ; free iodine turns it
blue.
4424. Sulphate of Iron Test Paper.
Made with a solution of tho protosulphato ;
as a test for hydrocyanic acid and the soluble
cyanides.
4425. Turmeric Test Paper. Pre-
pared with a decoction of 2 ounces turmeric
to 1 pint water ; is turned brown by alkalies,
and by boracic acid and the soluble borates.
4426. Cabbage Test Paper. Make a
strong infusion of red cabbage leaves, strain
it, and evaporate it by a gentle heat till con-
siderably reduced. Then dip tho paper in it
and dry it in tho air. (This paper is of a
greyish color ; alkalies change it to green,
acids to red. It is a very delicate test; if
rendered slightly green by an alkali, carbonic
acid will restore the color.)
4427. Alkanet Test Paper. The red
principle of the alkanet root (Anchusa tinc-
toria, L.) is, as is well known, a most sensi-
tive reagent for alkalies and acids ; it is used
for the preparation of test paper, and is pre-
pared like litmus paper, by saturating un-
sized paper with a solution of the alkanet red.
This is obtained by extracting dry alkanet
root with ether ; the filtered liquid is ready
for use. The blue paper may be obtained
from the red one by dipping it in an aqueous
solution of carbonate of soda of specific grav-
ity 1.5. A paper, answering for both alka-
line and acid test, may bo prepared by
dividing tho ethereal solution of alkanet red
into two equal parts ; to one is added, drop
by drop, a watery solution of carbonate of
soda, until tho red just has changed to a dis-
tinct blue hue ; then both liquids are mixed
and used for the preparation of the paper.
This, when dried, has to be kept in tightly
closed bottles.
4428. Test Paper from Hollyhock
Flowers. Some years ago Prof. Aiken, of
the University of Maryland, proposed paper
stained with an infusion of the petals, as a sub-
stitute for litmus paper. His althrea paper is
purplish-blue when dry; acids impart a car-
mine hue, which is turned to bluish-green by
alkalies, the neutral tint being purplish-blue ; it
is superior in intensity of reaction to turmeric,
and quite equal to litmus, and is not affected
by light, as is the case with the latter. Tho
alkaline reaction is produced in natural or
atmospheric waters ; and the presence of ni-
trites, which change the red paper to purple,
is indicated in greater dilution than with io-
dide starch.
4429. Ozonometer. This name has
been given to paper prepared with a mixed
solution of starch and iodide of potassium.
It is white, but is turned blue by ozonized air
when exposed to it in a slightly moistened
state. This test is sufficiently delicate to
detect the presence of ozone in the atmo-
sphere.
"ppactitious Mineral Wa-
-*- terS. These are the imitations of
different celebrated springs, whose waters
have more or less medicinal properties ; they
are prepared by adding to pure water the in-
gredients which the original spring water is
found, by chemical analysis, to contain. Un-
der this class are also included tho ordinary
aerated or carbonated waters, which are known
as soda waters. The majority, whether plain
or medical, are charged with carbonic acid gas
by the powerful apparatus employed by man-
ufacturers of soda waters (see No. 718) ; the
gas being evolved by the action of weak sul-
ghuric acid on marble chalk, whiting, &c.
ome few obtain their carbonic acid gas by
the action of an acid and an alkali introduced
into tho bottle, and instantly corked. Tho
quantity of gas introduced is usually abouf, 5
times tho volume of the liquid. In making
chalybeate and sulphuretted water, the water
should be previously boiled, to expel all air
from it.
4431. Simple Aerated Water. Car-
bonic acid gas water. Water charged with
five or more volumes of carbonic acid gas, by
means of a suitable apparatus. (See No. 718.)
FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS.
4432. Alkaline Aerated Waters.
Aerated soda and potash waters should be
made by dissolving 1 drachm of the carbon-
ated alkali in each pint of water, and charging
it strongly with carbonic acid gas. The soda
water usually offered for sale contains little
or no soda.
4433. Aerated Magnesia "Water.
This is a solution of magnesia of various
strengths, charged with carbonic acid gas in
the same manner as other aerated waters.
4434. Murray's Fluid Magnesia may
be thus made: To a boiling solution of 16
ounces sulphate of magnesia in 6 pints water,
add a solution of 19 ounces crystallized car-
bonate of soda in the same quantity of water;
boil the mixture till gas ceases to escape, stir-
ring constantly; then set it aside to settle;
pour off the liquid, and wash the precipitate
on a cotton or linen cloth, with warm water,
till the latter passes tasteless. Mix the pre-
cipitate, without drying it, with a gallon of
water, and force carbonic acid gas into it
under strong pressure, till a complete solution
is effected. The Eau Magnesienne of the
French Codex is about a third of this strength;
and some fluid magnesias prepared in this
country are not much stronger. Dinneford's
preparation is similar to the above.
4435. Carbonated Lime- Water — Car-
rara Water. Lime-water (prepared from
lime made by calcining Carrara marble) is
supersaturated, by strong pressure, with car-
bonic acid, so that the carbonate of lime at _
first thrown down is redissolved. It contains ounces
8 grains carbonate of lime in 10 fluid ounces
water.
4436. Aerated Lithia Water. This
may be conveniently made from the fresh pre-
cipitated carbonate, dissolved in carbonated
water, as directed for fluid magnesia. Its
antacid and antilithic properties are found
useful.
4437. Baden Water. Muriate of mag-
nesia, 2 grains ; muriate of lime, 40 grains ;
muriate of iron, ± grain (or 3 minims of the
tincture); muriate of soda, 30 grains; sul-
phate of soda, 10 grains; carbonate of soda,
1 grain ; water, 1 pint ; carbonic acid gas, 5
volumes.
4438. Carlsbad Water. Dissolve 8
grains of muriate of lime, 1 drop of tincture
of sesquichloride of iron, 50 grains of sulphate
of soda, 60 grains of carbonate of soda, 8
grains of muriate of soda, in one pound of
water.
4439. Carlsbad Water. Muriate of
lime, 8 grains ; tincture of muriate of iron, 1
drop ; sulphate of soda, 50 grains ; carbonate
of soda, 60 grains; muriate of soda, 8 grains;
carbonated water, 1 pint.
4440. Congress Water. Take com-
mon salt, 7£ ounces; hydrate of soda, 23
grains; bicarbonate of soda, 20 grains; and
calcined magnesia, 1 ounce. Add the above
ingredients to 10 gallons of water, and charge
with gas.
4441. Eger Water. Carbonate of soda,
5 grains ; sulphate of soda, 4 scruples ; muri-
ate of soda, 10 grains ; sulphate of magnesia,
3 grains; muriate of lime, 5 grains; carbonated
water, 1 pint.
Or it may be made without apparatus thus:
Bicarbonate of soda, 30 grains; muriate of
soda, 8 grains ; sulphate of magnesia, 3 grains;
water, 1 pint ; dissolve and add 1 scruple dry
bisulphate of soda, and close the bottle imme-
diately.
4442. Ems Water. Carbonate of soda,
2 scruples ; sulphate of potash, 1 grain ; sul-
phate of magnesia, 5 grains; muriate of soda,
10 grains ; muriate of lime, 3 grains ; carbon-
ated water, 1 pint.
4443. Kissingen Water. Mix together
bicarbonate of soda, 1 drachm; carbonate of
lime, 8 scruples; precipitated carbonate of
iron, 2 scruples; common salt, 8 ounces;
muriate of ammonia, 4 grains; sulphate of
soda, 8 scruples; sulphate of magnesia, 2
ounces ; phosphate of soda, 13 grains ; phos-
phate of lime, 8 scruples. Add water, £ gal-
lon. Let it stand half a day, filter, add car-
bonate of magnesia, 10 scruples, and 10 gallons
water. Lastly, charge with gas by means of
the usual apparatus. (See No. 718.)
4411. Marienbad Water. Carbonate
of soda, 2 scruples; sulphate of soda, 96 grains;
sulphate of magnesia, 8 grains; muriate of
soda, 15 grains ; muriate of lime, 10 grains ;
carbonated water, 1 pint.
Or, bicarbonate of soda, 50 grams ; sulphate
of soda, 1 drachm; muriate of soda, 15 grains;
sulphate of magnesia, 10 grains ; dissolve in
1 pint water, add 25 grains dry bisulphate of
soda, and cork immediately.
4445. Marienbad Purging Salts. Bi-
carbonate of soda, 5 ounces; dried sulphate
of soda, 12 ounces ; dry muriate of soda, 1£
ounces ; sulphate of magnesia, dried, 2 oun-
ces; dried bisulphate of soda, 2£ ounces.
Mix the salts, previously dried, separately,
and keep them carefully from the air.
4446. Pullna Water. Sulphate of
soda, 4 drachms; sulphate of magnesia, 4
drachms ; muriate of lime, 15 grains ; muriate
of magnesia (dry), 1 scruple; muriate of soda,
1 scruple; bicarbonate of soda, 10 grains;
water slightly carbonated, 1 pint. One ' of
the most active of the purgative saline wa-
ters, and deserving of wider popularity.
It may be prepared without apparatus aa
follows : Bicarbonate of soda, 50 grains ; sul-
phate of magnesia, 4 drachms; sulphate of
soda, 3 drachms ; muriate of soda, 1 scruple ;
dissolve in 1 pint of water; add, lastly, 2
scruples bisulphate of soda, and close the bot-
tle immediately.
4447. Salts for Making Pullna Wa-
ter. Dry bicarbonate of soda, 1 ounce ; sul-
phate of soda, 2 ounces; sulphate of magnesia, '
1£ ounces; muriate of soda, 2 drachms; tar-
taric acid, f ounce (or rather, bisulphate of
soda, 1 ounce). All the ingredients must be
previously dried.
4448. Pyrmont Water. Carbonate of
lime, 12 grains; crystallized carbonate of soda,
31 grains; sulphate of soda in crystals, 7J
grains ; sulphate of lime, 14 grains ; sulphate
of magnesia, 20 grains ; sulphate of iron, 2
grains ; chloride of sodium, 2 grains ; chloride
of magnesium, 4 grains; chloride of mangan-
ese, -Ja grain ; water, 2 pints ; carbonic acid,
5 volumes. Dissolve the sulphate of iron in
part of the water ; dissolve the other soluble
salts in the remainder of the water, add the
insoluble salts to the solution, and charge it
with the carbonic acid. Mix the two solutions
in a bottle, and cork it immediately.
FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS.
4=13
4449 Seidlitz Water. This is usually
imitated by strongly aerating a solution of 2
drachms sulphate of magnesia in 1 pint of
water. It is also made with 4, G, and 8
drachms of the salts to 1 pint of water, ac-
cording to the strength required.
4450. Seidlitz Powders. The common
Seidlitz powders do not resemble the water.
A closer imitation would be made by using
effloresced sulphate of magnesia instead of
the potassio-tartrate of soda. A still more
exact compound will be the following: Efflor-
esced sulphate of magnesia, 2 ounces ; bicar-
bonate of soda, | ounce; dry bisulphate of
soda, 4- ounce ; mix, and keep in a close bot-
tle.
4451. Seidlitz Powders. Mix. together
thoroughly 1 troy ounce bicarbonate of soda,
and 3 troy ounces Rochelle salt, both in fine
powder, and divide into 12 equal parts. Di-
vide 420 grains tartaric acid also into 12 equal
parts. Put up the parts, severally, of the
mixture and of the acid in separate papers,
each kind of a distinctive color. ( U. S. Ph.}
The alkaline mixture is usually put up in
blue, and the acid in white papers.
4452. Seidschutz Water. Sulphate of
magnesia, 3 drachms; muriate of lime, nitrate
of lime, bicarbonate of soda, of each 8 grains ;
sulphate of potash, 5 grains ; aerated water, 1
pint.
4453. Seltzer or Selters Water. The
seltzer water, as commonly sold, is prepared
as follows : Prepare a solution of fused chlor-
ide of calcium, 1 part in 9 of water (specific
gravity should be 1.088 to 1.089) ; a solution
of calcined carbonate of soda, 1 part in 10 of
water (specific gravity 1.105) ; a solution of
chloride of magnesium, by dissolving calcined
magnesia at the rate of 20 grains in dilute
hydrochloric acid to make 1 fluid ounce of
saturation (specific gravity 1.08G); lastly,
a solution of dry sulphate of soda in 10 parts
water (specific gravity 1.092). These solu-
tions are mixed with water in the following
proportions : Solution of carbonate of soda,
1000 grains ; solution of chloride of calcium,
200 grains ; solution of chloride of magne-
sium, 150 grains ; solution of sulphate of soda,
20 grains ; added to 250 to 300 ounces (troy)
of water, afterwards to be charged with car-
bonic acid.
4454. Seltzer Water. Muriate of lime
and muriate of magnesia, of- each 4 grains;
dissolve these in a small quantity of water,
and add it to a similar solution of 8 graiuy
bicarbonate of soda, 20 grains muriate of soda,
and 2 grains phosphate of soda ; mix, and add
& solution of J of a grain sulphate of iron;
put the mixed solution into a 20-ouuce bottle,
and fill up with aerated water. An imitation
of seltzer water is also made by putting into
a stone seltzer bottle, filled with water, 2
drachuas bicarbonate of soda and 2 drachms
citric acid in crystals, corking the bottle im-
mediately.
4455. Vichy Water. Sulphate of po-
tassa, 2 drachms ; sulphate of soda, 4 scruples;
phosphate of soda, 25 grains ; common salt, 6
drachms ; bicarbonate of soda, 5J ounces ; car-
bonate of ammonia, 10 grains. Mix. Add
water, ^ gallon. Let it stand half a day;
filter, add 10 gallons water, and charge with
gas.
4456. Vichy Water. Bicarbonate of
soda, 1 drachm ; muriate of soda, 2 grains ;
sulphate of soda, 8 grains ; sulphate of mag-
nesia, 3 grains ; tincture of muriate of iron, 2
drops; aerated water, 1 pint. Dorvault di-
rects 75 grains of bicarbonate of soda, 4
grains of chloride of sodium, £ grain sulphate
of iron, 10 grains sulphate of soda, and 3
grains sulphate of magnesia, to a pint of
water. By adding 45 grains (or less) of
citric acid, an effervescing water is obtained.
4457. Vichy Water. Soubeiran, rely-
ing on the analysis of Longchamps, imitates
Vichy water by the following combination :
Bicarbonate of soda, 135 grains; chloride of
sodium, 2£ grains; crystallized chloride of
calcium, 12 grains; sulphate of soda, 11^
grains ; sulphate of magnesia, 3f grains ; tar-
trate of iron and potash •&• grain ; water, 2-jV
pints; carbonic acid, 305 cubic inches (10£
pints). Dissolve the salts of soda and iron in
part of the water, dissolve and add the sul-
phate of magnesia, and then the chloride of
calcium in the remaining water. Charge
now with the carbonic acid gas under pres-
sure.
4458. Vichy Salts. Bicarbonate of
soda, li ounces; muriate of soda, 15 grains;
effloresced sulphate of soda, 1 drachm ; efflo-
resced sulphate of magnesia, 1 scruple ; dry
tartarized sulphate of iron, 1 grain; dry tar-
taric acid, 1 ounce (or dry bisulphate of soda);
mix the powders, previously dried, and keep
them in a close bottle.
4459. Sea- Water. Muriate of soda, 4
ounces ; sulphate of soda, 2 ounces ; muriate
of lime, i ounce; muriate of magnesia, 1
ounce; iodide of potassium, 4 grains; bromide
of potassium, 2 grains; water, 1 gallon. A
common substitute for sea- water as a bath is
made by dissolving 5 or 6 ounces of common
salt in a gallon of water.
4460. Dry Salt to Imitate Sea- Wa-
ter. The following mixture of dry salts may
be kept for the immediate production of a
good imitation of sea-water. Chloride of
sodium (that obtained from evaporating sea-
water and not recrystallized, in preference),
85 ounces; effloresced sulphate of soda, 15
ounces ; dry muriate of lime, 4 ounces ; dry
muriate of magnesia, 16 ounces; iodide of po-
tassium, 2 drachms ; bromide of potassium, 1
grain. Mix and keep dry. Put 5 or 6 ounces
to a gallon of water.
4461. Balaruc Water. Muriate of
soda, 1 ounce; muriate of lime. 1 ounce;
muriate of magnesia, £ ounce; sulphate of
soda, 3 drachms; bicarbonate of soda, 2
drachms ; bromide of potassium, 1 grain ;
water, 1 gallon. Chiefly used for baths.
4462. Simple Sulphuretted Waters.
Pass sulphuretted hydrogen into cold water
(previously deprived of air by boiling, and
cooled in a close vessel), till it ceases to be ab-
sorbed.
4463. Aix-la-Chapelle Water. Bi-
carbonate of soda, 12 grains ; muriate of soda,
25 grains ; muriate of lime, 3 grains ; sulphate
of soda, 8 grains ; simple sulphuretted water,
2k ounces; water slightly carbonated, 17 1
ounces.
4464. Bareges Water. (Cauterets,
Bagneres de Luchon, Bonnes St. Sauveur,
may be made in the same manner. ) Crystal-
MEDICINAL TINCTURES.
lized hydrosulphate of soda, crystallized car-
bonate of soda, and chloride of sodium, of
each 2k grains ; water (free from air), 1 pint.
A stronger solution for adding to baths is thus
made : Crystallized hydrosulphate of soda,
crystallized carbonate of soda, and muriate of
soda, of each 2 ounces ; water, 10 ounces ;
dissolve. To be added to a common bath at
the time of using.
4465. Naples "Water. Crystallized car-
bonate of soda, 15 grains ; fluid magnesia,
1 ounce ; simple sulphuretted water, 2
ounces; aerated water, 16 ounces. Intro-
duce the sulphuretted water into the bottle
last.
4466. Harrogate "Water. Chloride of
sodium, 100 grains; muriate of lime, 10
grains ; muriate of magnesia, 6 grains ; bi-
carbonate of soda, 2 grains ; water, l&J
ounces. Dissolve and add simple sulphu-
retted water, 1£ ounces.
4467. Simple Chalybeate "Water.
"Water, freed from air by boiling, 1 pint;
sulphate of iron, i grain.
4468. Aerated Chalybeate "Water.
Sulphate of iron, 1 grain ; carbonate of soda,
4 grains ; water, deprived of air and charged
with carbonic acid gas, 1 pint. Dr. Pereira
recommends 10 grams each of sulphate of
iron and bicarbonate of soda to be taken in a
bottle of ordinary soda-water. This is equiv-
alent to 4 grains of carbonate of iron.
4469. Brighton Chalybeate. Sulphate
of iron, muriate of soda, muriate of lime, of
each 2 grains ; carbonate of soda, 3 grains ;
carbonated water, 1 pint.
4470. Bussang Water. Dissolve from
1 to £ grain of sulphate of iron, 2 or 3 grains
carbonate of soda, 1 grain sulphate of magne-
sia, and 1 of muriate of soda, in a pint of
aerated water. Forges, Provins, and other
similar waters can be imitated in the same
manner.
4471. Mont d'Or "Water. Bicarbonate
of soda, 70 grains ; sulphate of iron, £ grain ;
muriate of soda, 12 grains ; sulphate of soda,
£ grain; muriate of lime, 4 grains; muriate
of magnesia, 2 grains ; aerated water, 1 pint.
(See No. 4431.)
4472. Passy Water. Sulphate of iron,
2 grains ; muriate of soda, 3 grains ; carbon-
ate of soda, 4 grains ; muriate of magnesia, 2
grains ; aerated water, 1 pint.
4473. Pyrmont Water. Sulphate of
magnesia, 20 grains ; muriate of magnesia, 4
grains ; muriate of soda, 2 grains ; bicarbon-
ate of soda, 16 grains; sulphate of iron, 2
grains ; Carrara water, 1 pint. (Sec No. 4435.)
4474. Mialhe's Aerated Chalybeate
Water. Water, 1 pint ; citric acid, 1 drachm ;
citrate of iron, 15 grains ; dissolve, and add
75 grains bicarbonate of soda.
4475. Trousseau's Martial Aerated
Water. Potassio-tartrate of iron, 10 grains ;
artificial Seltzer water, 1 pint.
4476. Bouchardat's Gaseous Purga-
tive. Phosphate of soda, 1^- ounces ; carbon-
ated water, 1 pint.
4477. Mialhe's loduretted Gaseous
Water. Iodide of potassium, 15 grains;
bicarbonate of soda, 75 grains; water, 1
Eint; dissolve, and add sulphuric acid di-
ated with its weight of water, 75 grains.
Cork immediately.
4478. Dupasquier's Gaseous Water
of Iodide of Iron. Solution of iodide of
iron (containing 10 per cent, of dry iodide),
30 grains ; syrup of gam, 2£ ounces ; aerated
water, 17£ ounces.
Medicinal Tinctures.
These are solutions of the active
principles of bodies, obtained by digesting
them in alcohol more or less dilute. Ethereal
tinctures are similar solutions prepared with
ether. (SecNos. 35, <fc.) Where percolation
is resorted to in the preparation of tinctures,
the directions laid down in No. 41 should be
carefully followed to ensure success.
4480. Tincture of Assafetida. Mace-
rate 4 troy ounces assafetida in 2 pints al-
cohol for 2 weeks, and filter through paper.
(U. S.Ph.)
4481. Tincture of Aconite Leaf.
Take 4 troy ounces recently dried aconite leaf
in fine powder ; moisten with 2 fluid ounces
diluted alcohol ; pack it firmly in a conical
percolator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol
sufficient to displace 2 pints of tincture.
(U. S.Ph.)
4482. Tincture of Aconite Boot.
Take 12 troy ounces aconite root in fine pow-
der; moisten with 6 fluid ounces alcohol;
pack it firmly in a cylindrical precolator, and
gradually pour alcohol upon it until 2 pints
of tincture arc obtained. ( U. S. Ph.)
4483. Tincture of Arnica. Take 6
troy ounces tincture of arnica ; mix 1 i pints
alcohol and $ pint water ; moisten the arnica
slightly with this mixture, and braise it
thoroughly in a mortar. Then pack it firmly
in a cylindrical percolator, and pour upon it
first the remainder of the mixture, and after-
wards sufficient diluted alcohol to make the
tincture measure 2 pints. ( U. S. Ph.)
4484. Tincture of Belladonna. Moist-
en 4 troy ounces recently dried belladonna
leaf, in fine powder, with 2 fluid ounces dilu-
ted alcohol ; pack it firmly in a conical per-
colator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained.
( U. S. Ph.)
4485. Tincture of Hemp. Dissolve
360 grains purified extract of hemp in 1 pint
alcohol, and filter through paper. ( U. S.
Ph.)
4486. Tincture of Capsicum. Moist-
en 1 troy ounce capsicum, in fine powder,
with i fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack it in a
conical percolator, and gradually pour diluted
alcohol upon it until 2 pints of tincture are ob-
tained. (U. S. Ph.)
4487. Tincture of Cinchona. Moisten
6 troy ounces yellow cinchona, in moderately
fine powder, with 2 fluid ounces diluted alco-
hol ; pack it firmly in a glass percolator and
displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tinc-
ture. (U. S. Ph.)
4488. Compound Tincture of Cin-
chona. Take 4 troy ounces red cinchona, 3
troy ounces bitter orange peel, 6 drachms
serpentaria (Vinginia snakeroot), 3 drachms
red saunders, all in moderately fine powder ;
and 3 drachms saffron in moderately coarse
powder. Mix the powders, moisten with 4
MEDICINAL TINCTURES.
415
fluid ounces diluted alcohol, pack it firmly in
'a glass percolator, and displace, -with diluted
alcohol, 2£ pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.}
4489. Tincture of Hemlock. Moisten
4 troy ounces recently dried hemlock, in fine
powder, with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol ;
pack it firmly in a conical percolator, and
fradually pour diluted alcohol upon it until
pints of tincture are obtained. ( U. S. Ph.)
4490. Tincture of Digitalis. Moisten
4 troy ounces recently dried digitalis (fox
glove), in fine powder, with 2 fluid ounces
diluted alcohol ; pack it firmly in a conical
percolator, and displace, with diluted alcohol,
2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.}
4491. Tincture of Iodine. Dissolve 1
ounce iodine in 1 pint alcohol. ( U. S. Ph. )
Tincture of iodine may be readily prepared
by placing the iodine in a glass funnel, having
previously filled the neck with broken glass,
and pouring on the alcohol as it passes
through. To prevent evaporation, cover the
funnel with a close-fitting glass top. Spirits
of camphor may also be speedily made in this
way.
4492. Tincture of Turkey-Corn.
Take 3 ounces powdered Turkey-corn root
(corydalis) and make 1 pint tincture by mace-
ration or displacement with diluted alcohol.
(Am. Dis.)
4493. Tincture of Yellow Jasmine
(Gelseminum). Cut into small pieces 8
ounces of the fresh root of yellow jasmine
(gelseminum); macerate for 14 days in 2 pints
. diluted alcohol, express and filter. This forms
a saturated tincture. (Am. Dis.)
4494. Universal Tincture. Bruise the
following ingredients and digest for several
days in 18 ounces brandy : 10 drachms aloes ;
8 drachms each white agaric, rhubarb root,
zedoary root, gentian root, galanga root, gum
myrrh, and molasses electuary ; 2 drachms
saffron, and 4 ounces sugar. Express and
filter.
4495. Compound Tincture of Black
Pepper. This is prepared with 30 parts
capsicums ; 40 parts black pepper ; 15 parts
each grains of paradise, cinnamon, ginger,
and calamus ; 15 parts by measure acetate of
potassa, and 60 parts alcohol.
4496. Tincture of American Helle-
bore. Moisten 16 troy ounces American
Hellebore (veratrum yiride), in moderately
fine powder, with 4 fluid ounces alcohol.
Pack it firmly in a cylindrical percolator,
and displace, with alcohol, 2 pints of tinc-
ture. (U. S. Ph.)
4497. Compound Tincture of Dew-
berry. Take 4 ounces Dewberry (rabus
trivialis) root, i ounce powdered Aleppo
galls, 3 drachms powdered cinnamon, 10
grains powdered capsicum, 1 drachm pow-
dered cloves, and -J- ounce gum kino. Digest
for 14 days in 2 pints best brandy. Filter, and
add 1 ounce tincture of opium, 1 ounce essence
of peppermint, and 1 pint white sugar. Dose,
1 tea-spoonful for an adult.
4498. Tincture of Skunk-Cabbage.
Take 3 ounces skunk-cabbage root in powder,
and 1 pint diluted alcohol. Make a tincture
by maceration, or displace 1 pint from a per-
colator. (Am. Dis.)
4499. Tincture of Stramonium. Make
1 pint of tincture from 2 ounces bruised stra-
monium seed and diluted alcohol. ( Am. Dis.)
4500. Tincture of Monesia. Take 1
part extract of monesia, 6 parts alcohol, and
14 parts water. Mix and filter. (Am. Dis.)
4501. Tincture of St. John's Wort.
Macerate for 14 days 5 ounces blossoms of St.
John's wort, in 1 pint alcohol. Express and
filter. (Am. Dis.)
4502. Compound Tincture of Kino.
Take 4 drachms each powdered opium, gum
kino, and cochineal ; 3 drachms each camphor
and cloves ; and 4 drachms aromatic spirits of
ammonia. Macerate in 4 pints dilute alcohol.
Express and filter.
4503. Camphorated Tincture of Soap.
There has been some difficulty in preparing
this liniment as directed in the dispensatory,
on account of its coagulating. The following
formula makes a tincture which remains fluid
at all temperatures. Take 4 ounces castile
soap, 2 ounces camphor, £ ounce oil of rose-
mary, 16 ounces water, and 20 ounces 95 per
cent, alcohol.
4504. Tincture of Chloride of Iron.
Introduce 3 troy ounces of iron wire, cut into
pieces, into a flask of the capacity of 2 pints ;
pour upon it 11 troy ounces muriatic acid, and
allow the mixture to stand until effervescence
has ceased. Then heat it to the boiling point,
decant the liquid from the undissolved iron,
filter it through paper, and, having rinsed the
flask with a little boiling distilled water, add
this to it through the filter. Pour the filtrate
into a 4-pint capsule, add 6£ troy ounces
muriatic acid ; and, having heated the mixture
nearly to the boiling point, add li troy ounces
nitric acid. "When effervescence has ceased,
drop in nitric acid, constantly stirring, until it
no longer produces effervescence. Lastly,
when the liquid is cold, add sufficient distilled
water to make it measure 1 pint, and mix it
with 3 pints alcohol. ( U. S. Ph.)
4505. Tincture of Guaiac. Reduce 6
troy ounces guaiac to a moderately coarse
powder, mix it with an equal bulk of dry sand,
pack the mixture moderately in a conical per-
colator ; and, having covered it with a layer
of sand, gradually pour alcohol upon it until
2 pints of tincture are obtained. ( U. S. Ph.)
4506. Tincture of Black Hellebore.
Moisten 4 troy ounces black hellebore in
moderately fine powder, with 1 fluid ounce
diluted alcohol. Pack it in a cylindrical per-
colator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained.
(U. S. Ph.)
4507. Tincture of Mandrake (Podo-
phyllin). Make 1 pint of tincture from 3
ounces mandrake-root in powder, with alcohol,
either by maceration or percolation. (Am.
4508. Tincture of Queen's Boot
(Stillingia). Take 3 ounces queen's root,
bruised and cut into small pieces, and make '
1 pint with diluted alcohol, either by macera-
tion or displacement. (Am. Dis.)
4509. Tincture of Leopard's Bane
(Arnica Flowers). Macerate 2 ounces
arnica flowers in 1 pint dilute alcohol ; or
put the arnica-flowers in a percolator, and
with diluted alcohol displace 1 pint. (Am.
Dis.)
4510. Tincture of Hops. Moisten 5
troy ounces hops, in moderately coarse pow-
4:16
MEDICINAL TINCTURES.
der, with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol.
Pack it very firmly in a cylindrical percolator,
and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of
tincture. (U. S. Ph.)
4511. Tincture of Henbane. Moisten
4 troy ounces henbane leaf, in fine powder,
with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol. Pack it
firmly in a conical percolator, and gradually
pour diluted alcohol upon it until 2 pints of
•tincture are obtained. ( U. S. Ph.)
4512. Tincture of Kino. Reduce 6
drachms kino to fine powder. Mix the pow-
dered kino thoroughly with an equal bulk of
dry sand ; introduce the mixture into a coni-
cal glass percolator, and displace i pint of
tincture, using a menstruum composed of 2
parts alcohol and 1 part water. ( U. S. Ph.)
4513. Tincture of Lobelia. Moisten 4
troy ounces lobelia, in fine powder, with 2
fluid ounces diluted alcohol ; pack it firmly
in a conical percolator, and displace, with di-
luted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.)
4514. Tincture of Cimicifuga Race-
mosa (Black Cohosh, or Black Snake-
Root). Black cohosh root, in fine powder,
4 troy ounces ; alcohol, 1 pint. Make 1 pint
of tincture by maceration or displacement.
(Am. Dis.)
4515. Norwood's Tincture of Vera-
trum Viride (American Hellebore).
Macerate 8 ounces of the recently dried,
coarsely powdered root, in 16 ounces of al-
cohol for 14 days ; express and filter through
paper. (Am. Dis.)
4516. Tincture of Chiretta. Macerate
2i ounces (avoirdupois) chiretta, cut small
and bruised, in 15 Imperial fluid ounces recti-
fied spirit, for 48 hours. Then transfer to a
percolator, pouring on 5 additional fluid oun-
ces rectified spirit; press the residuum, and
filter ; lastly, add rectified spirit to make up
to 1 Imperial pint. (B. Ph.)
4517. Tincture of Ergot. Take 5
ounces (avoirdupois) ergot, and proceed in
the same manner as for tincture of chiretta.
(B. Ph.)
4518. Tincture of Blue-Flag. Macer-
ate 3 ounces powdered blue-flag in 1 pint al-
cohol ; or, make 1 pint by percolation. (Am.
Dis.)
4519. Tincture of Lupulin. Pack 4
troy ounces lupulin in a narrow cylindrical
percolator, and gradually pour alcohol upon
it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained. ( U.
S. Ph.)
4520. Tincture of Nux Vomica. Di-
gest with a gentle heat, 8 troy ounces finely
powdered nux-vomica in 1 pint alcohol, for
24 hours in a close vessel. Then transfer the
mixture to a cylindrical percolator, and grad-
ually pour alcohol upon it until 2 pints of
tincture are obtained. (U. S. Ph.)
4521. Tincture of Tobacco. Take a
convenient quantity of the expressed juice of
fresh- gathered tobacco leaves; mix it with an
equal quantity of rectified spirits, and filter
the mixture. This tincture, diluted with half
its weight of spirits of nitric ether, is a speci-
fic for cramps or spasms of the bladder. For
this purpose it is administered in doses of 10
to 20 drops, at intervals of about 2 hours.
4522. Tincture of Rhubarb. Mix to-
gether 3 troy ounces rhubarb in moderately
coarse powder, and £ troy ounce cardamom
in moderately fine powder; moisten with 1
fluid ounce diluted alcohol, pack moderately"
in a conical percolator, and displace, with di-
luted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.)
4523. Tincture of Rhubarb .and
Senna. Eeduce to a moderately coarse pow-
der, 1 troy ounce rhubarb, 2 drachms senna, 2
drachms red saunders, 1 drachm each corian-
der and fennel, k drachm each saffron and
liquorice, and 6 troy ounces raisins deprived
of their seeds. Macerate for 14 days in 3
pints diluted alcohol, and filter through paper.
(U. S. Ph.)
4524. Tincture of Bloodroot. Moisten
troy ounces bloodroot (sanguinaria), in
moderately fine powder, with 1 fluid ounce
diluted alcohol ; pack it in a conical percola-
tor, and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints
of tincture. (U. S. Ph.)
4525. Tincture of Serpentaria. Moist-
en 4 troy ounces serpentaria (Virginia snake-
root), in moderately fine powder, in I fluid
ounce diluted alcohol. Pack it in a conical
percolator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained.
(U. S. Ph.)
4526. Tincture of Valerian. This is
obtained in the same manner as the tincture
of serpentaria. (See last formula.) (U.S.
Ph.)
4527. Camphorated Tincture of Opium.
(Paregoric Elixir). This is a camphorated
tincture of opium. Macerate 1 drachm each
powdered opium and benzbic acid, 1 fluid
drachm oil of anise, 2 ounces clarified honey,
and 2 scruples camphor, in 2 pints diluted
alcohol for 7 days, and filter through paper.
(U.S. Ph.)
4528. Gummings' Quick Method of
Making Paregoric. Take pulverized opium,
1 drachm ; camphor gum, 2 scruples ; benzoic
acid, 1 drachm ; oil of aniseed, 1 fluid drachm ;
clarified honey, 2 ounces ; hot water and alco-
hol, 1 pint each. Dissolve the camphor and
oil of aniseed in the alcohol ; triturate the
powdered opium in a mortar with some of the
hot water for about 10 minutes, filter, and
pass the remaining water through the dregs.
To the fluid obtained add the alcoholic solu-
tion of oil and camphor, and dissolve finally
the honey and benzoic acid in the mixture.
By passing this once more through the pul-
verized opium, the latter will become perfectly
exhausted. The addition of 10 grains of santal
gives the preparation a beautiful rich tint.
4529. Tincture of Opium. (Lauda-
num). Macerate 2£ ounces opium, in mode-
rately fine powder, in 1 pint water for 3 days,
with frequent agitation. Add 1 pint alcohol,
and macerate for 3 days longer. Percolate,
and displace 2 pints tincture by adding dilute
alcohol in the percolator. ( U. S. Ph. )
4530. Ammoniated Tincture of
Opium. Digest 6 drachms benzoic acid,
6 drachms hay saffron, 4 drachms sliced
opium, and 1 drachm oil of aniseed, in 1
quart spirit of ammonia for a week, and
filter. Stimulant, an ti- spasmodic, and ano-
dyne. Dose, 20 to 80 drops.
'4531. Squibb's Compound Tincture
of Opium. This mixture is composed of
tincture of opium, tincture of capsicum,
spirit of camphor, each 1 fluid ounce; puri-
fied chloroform, 3 fluid drachms ; and a suffi-
MEDICINAL TINCTURES.
cient quantity of stronger alcohol to make | alcohol, pack it moderately in a conical per-
the whole measure 5 fluid ounces. Bach colator, and displace, with alcohol, 2 pints of
fluid drachm, or tea-spoonful, contains about
100 drops, consisting of 12 minims of each of
the first three ingredients, and 4i minims or
18 drops of chloroform. Dose, for persons
over 18 years of age, a tea-spoonful ; 2 to 6,
ten to thirty drops ; infants, one to ten drops,
according to age. In time of epidemic cholera
or diarrhea, when any person has two move-
ments of the bowels more than natural within
the twenty-four hours, the second one should
be followed by a dose of this mixture; the
dose to be repeated after every movement
that follows. If the movements increase in
frequency or in copiousness after the second
dose of the medicine has been taken, a physi-
cian should be sent for at once, and a double
dose be taken after each movement, until he
arrives. Immediately after taking the first
dose, the person should go to bed, and remain
there for twelve hours after the diarrhea has
entirely ceased.
4532. Compound Tincture of Pellitory.
Take of bruised pellitory, 4 drachms ; cam-
phor, 3 drachms ; oil of cloves, 2 drachms ;
powdered opium, 1 drachm; rectified spirit,
6 fluid ounces ; digest for 8 days. The pro-
duct is a most serviceable form of toothache-
drops.
4533. Ethereo-alcoholic Tincture of
Pellitory for Tooth and Face-ache. Take
of bruised pellitory, 1 ounce ; pure ether, 2
fluid ounces ; strongest rectified spirit, 3 fluid
the tincture. This tincture may also be pre-
pared by maceration for 14 days with 2 pints
alcohol, and filtering through paper. ( U. S.
Ph.)
4539. Tincture of Cantharides. Moist-
en 1 troy ounce cautharides, in fine powder,
with i fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack it in
a conical percolator, and displace, with dilu-
ted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph. )
4540. Tincture of Cardamom. Moist-
en 4 troy ounces cardamom, in fine powder,
with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol ; pack it
firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and dis-
place, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4541. Tincture
of Castor. Macerate
2 troy ounces bruised castor for 7 days in 2
pints alcohol; express, and filter through
paper.
4542. Acetous Tincture of Valerian.
Valerian root, bruised, 4 ounces ; acetie acid,
li ounces; diluted alcohol, li pints. Digest
for 10 days in a closed vessel, and then filter.
The tincture, as thus prepared, is of a beauti-
ful red color with the predominating smell of
the valerian — taste bitter and slightly astring-
ent; may be given in doses of a dessert spoon-
ful every 3 hours.
4543. Dover's Tincture. Pulverized
ipecacuanha and opium, of each 8 grains ; di-
luted alcohol, 1 fluid ounce. Macerate for 14
days and filter ; or macerate 6 hours and dis-
ounces ; digest them together in a stoppered j place 1 fluid ounce with diluted alcohol, 1
bottle, in a cool place, for a week, with fre-
quent agitation, then express the tincture, but
avoid filtration. Some persons use equal parts
of ether and spirit, but the product does not
then keep so well. An excellent remedy for
tooth-ache and face-ache, often giving almost
immediate relief in the former case.
4534. Decoction of Balm of Gilead.
For the decoction, simmer 1 ounce of the
buds in a quart of soft water, down to half a
pint. Take a wine-glassful or more, when the
cough is troublesome.
4535. Tincture of Balm of Gilead.
Infuse 2 ounces of the buds in a quart of
good rum, and 4 ounces of sugar. Digest for
4 days. Take 2 or 3 tea-spoonfuls at a time.
It greatly relieves cough, pains in the chest,
and other pulmonary affections. The tincture
and decoction form excellent remedies for
cough, asthma, wheezing, &c.
4536. Tincture of Prickly-ash Ber-
ries. Macerate 8 ounces prickly-ash berries
(Xanthoxylum) for 14 days in 2 pints diluted
alcohol ; or, displace 2 ounces of tincture by
percolation. This tincture possesses all the
virtues of the berries. In cholera, the dose is
from i to 1 fluid ounce, repeated as often as
required ; in ordinary cases from 1 to 4 fluid
drachms, given in water. (Am. Dis.)
4537. Tincture of Aloes. Take 1 troy
ounce socotrine aloes in fine powder, and 3
troy ounces liquorice; macerate for 14 days
in & pint alcohol and 1 5 pints distilled water,
anil filter through paper. ( U. S. Ph.)
4538. Tincture of Aloes and Myrrh.
Take 3 troy ounces each socotrine aloes and
myrrh, both in moderately fine powder; 1
troy ounce saffron in moderately coarse pow-
der ; mix together, moisten with 2 fluid ounces
fluid drachm ; equivalent to 10 grains Do-
ver's powder. Used in combination with spirit
of Mindereras effervescing draught, and other
anti-febrile remedies in liquid form.
4544. Sweet Tincture of Bed Bark
(Cinchona). Red cinchona bark, in fine pow-
der, 4 troy ounces ; strong alcohol and syrup,
sufficient quantity ; dilute alcohol (alcohol 3
parts to 1 part water), 1£ fluid drachms.
Moisten the cinchona with the dilute alcohol,
and pack in a glass funnel, in the neck of
which sufficient tow (free from tar) has been
placed, to act as a filter; cover the surface
with a piece of perforated paper, and pour on
alcohol previously mixed with an equal vol-
ume of syrup until it has reached the tow and
the surface of the powder is covered ; cork the
neck of the funnel and allow it to macerate 48
hours; then remove the cork and continue
the percolation with equal parts of alcohol
and syrup, mixed, until 16 fluid ounces have
been obtained.
4545. Sweet Tincture of Rhubarb.
Take of rhubarb, bruised, and liquorice root,
bruised, of each 2 ounces; aniseed, bruised,
and sugar, of each 1 ounce ; diluted alcohol,
2 pints. Macerate for 14 days, express, and
filter.
4546.
Aqueous Tincture of Rhubarb:
Take of alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb, 3
fluid ounces. (See No. 4591.) Neutral carbon-
ate of potassa, 240 grains; cinnamon water, 4
troy ounces; dissolve the carbonate in the
cinnamon water ; add the fluid extract, and
then sufficient water to make the whole weigh
14 troy ounces. The above is an improve-
ment on the preparation in the Prussian Ph.,
but are in officinal proportions, and yield a
strictly officinal result.
4:18
FLUID EXTRACTS.
4547. Tincture of Catechu. Take
troy ounces catechu, and 2 troy ounces cin-
namon, both in moderately coarse powder.
Mix, and moisten with 1 fluid ounce diluted
alcohol ; pack it into a conical glass percola-
tor, and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints
of tincture. (U. S. Ph.)
4548. Tincture of Cinnamon. Mix 2
measures alcohol with 1 of water; moisten 3
troy ounces finely powdered cinnamon with 1
fluid ounce of the mixture ; pack it in a coni-
cal percolator, and displace with the mixture
2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.)
4549. Tincture of Colchicum. Moist-
en 4 troy ounces colchicum seed, in moder-
ately fine powder, with 1 fluid ounce diluted
alcohol; pack it in a cylindrical percolator,
and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of
the tincture. (U. S. Ph.)
4550. Tincture of Columbo. moisten
4 troy ounces columbo, in moderately one
powder, and percolate 2 pints tincture in the
same manner as the colchicum in last formula.
(U. 8. Ph.)
4551. Tincture of Cubeb. Percolate 2
pints tincture from 4 troy ounces cubeb, fol-
lowing the formula laid down for colchicum.
(See No. 4549. ) (U.S. Ph. )
4552. Tincture of Tar. Macerate 2
ounces tar in 16 ounces alcohol, until dis-
solved.
4553. Hamilton's Tincture of Dog-
Wood. Bark of dogwood, 1 ounce ; rectified
spirit, 12 fluid ounces; mix, macerate for 14
days, and filter.
4554. Tincture of Colocynth. Colo-
cynth, 8 parts ; star anise, 1 part ; alcohol, 96
parts. Macerate for 3 days, and filter. Dose,
15 to 20 drops.
4555. Compound Tincture of Squills
and Benzoin. This is also known as Wedel's
Elixir. Take of squills, orris root, and ele-
campane, each 25 drachms ; liquorice root, 2
drachms ; aniseed and myrrh, of each 4 scru-
ples ; saffron, 18 grains ; dilute alcohol, 22
fluid ounces. Macerate for 15 days, express
and filter. Dose, 40 to 60 drops, in catarrh,
asthma, <fec.
4556. "Wood's Tincture of Kino. Kino
in fine powder, 1£ ounces; alcohol (.835), 8
fluid ounces ; water, 4 fluid ounces ; glycerine,
4 fluid ounces. Mix the alcohol, water, and
flycerine together, and, having mixed the
ino with an equal bulk of clean sand, intro-
duce in a percolator and pour on the men-
struum. This menstruum seems to thorough-
ly exhaust the drug of its astringent principle,
and also makes a nice-looking preparation
that will not deteriorate by exposure.
4557. Compound Tincture of Kino.
This is made in the same way as other tinc-
tures (see No. 35), with the following ingre-
dients : 1 drachm each powdered opium, kino,
and cochineal ; 1^ drachms each camphor and
cloves ; 1 fluid ounce aromatic spirit of am-
monia, and 1 pint alcohol.
4558. Tincture of Ginger. Moisten 8
troy ounces ginger, in fine powder, with 2
fluid ounces alcohol ; pack it firmly in a cylin-
drical percolator, and displace, with alcohol, 2
pints of tincture. (U. S. Ph.)
4559. Tincture of Jalap. Mix 2 mea-
sures alcohol with 1 water; moisten 6 troy
ounces jalap, in fine powder, with 2 fluid oun-
ces of the mixture ; pack it moderately in a
cylindrical percolator, and displace with the
mixture 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.)
4560. Tincture of Myrrh. Take 3
troy ounces myrrh in moderately coarse pow-
der ; press it moderately into a conical perco-
lator, and displace with alcohol 2 pints of
tincture. (U. S. Ph.)
4561. Tincture of Nutgall. Moisten 4
troy ounces nutgall, in moderately fine pow-
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack
it in a glass percolator, and displace, with
diluted alcohol, 2 pints tincture. ( U. S. Ph.)
4562. Tincture of Quassia. Moisten 2
troy ounces quassia, in moderately fine pow-
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol ; pack
it in a percolator and displace, with diluted
alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.)
4563. Tincture of Bhatany. Moisten
6 troy ounces rhatany, in moderately fine
powder, with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol ;
pack it in a cylindrical glass percolator, and
displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tinc-
ture. (U. S. Ph.)
4564. Tincture of Squill. Moisten 4
troy ounces squill, in moderately coarse pow-
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack
it in a conical percolator, and displace, with
diluted alcohol, 2 pints tincture. ( U. S. Ph. )
4565. Tincture of Stramonium. Take
4 troy ounces stramonium seed, in moderately
fine powder, and percolate 2 pints of tincture
in the same manner as the squill in the last
formula. (U. S. Ph.)
4566. Tincture of Tolu. Macerate 3
troy ounces balsam of tolu in 2 pints alcohol
until it is dissolved ; then filter. ( U. S. Ph.)
4567. Compound Tincture of Benzoin.
Macerate 3 troy ounces benzoin, •£ troy ounce
socotrine aloes, both in coarse powder, and 2
troy ounces storax, for 14 days in 2 pints alco-
hol; filter through paper. (U. S. Ph.)
4568. Compound Tincture of Carda-
mom. Take 6 drachms cardamom, 2 drachms
caraway, 5 drachms cinnamon, 1 drachm coch-
ineal, all in moderately fine powder ; mix to-
gether, and moisten with k fluid ounce diluted
alcohol ; pack it in a cylindrical percolator,
and displace, with diluted alcohol, 6 fluid
ounces of tincture. Lastly mix this with
2 troy ounces clarified honey, and filter
through paper. ( U. S. Ph. )
4569. Compound Tincture of Gentian.
Mix together 2 troy ounces gentian, 1 troy
ounce bitter orange peel, h troy ounce carda-
mom, all in fine powder ; moisten with 1£
fluid ounces diluted alcohol ; pack it in a con-
ical percolator, and displace, with diluted
alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.)
4570. Compound Tincture of Iodine.
Dissolve -J troy ounce iodine and 1 of iodide
of potassium in 1 pint alcohol. ( U. S. Ph.)
Flllid Extracts. This form of
medicinal extracts was inte-oduced into
the United States Pharmacopoeia in 1850, for
the first time as a distinct class of prepara-
tions. Their distinctive character is the concen-
tration of the active ingredients of a substance
into a small bulk and in liquid form. Their
advantages consist in greater convenience of
administration, and in the fact that, not having
FLUID EXTRACTS.
been subjected to excessive evaporation, the
active principles they contain are less liable
to have suffered injury by heat. - The main
difficulty lies in their liquid form increasing
the liability to undergo spontaneous decom-
position ; this is counteracted in some cases
by the addition of sugar, in others by alcohol,
and in others again by a mixture of both.
Some .fluid extracts have a tendency to de-
posit matter when combined with sugar, ren-
dering the extract turbid or cloudy in appear-
ance; instead of sugar, Mr. Alfred B. Taylor
has proposed the use of glycerine, which,
while it has the same preservative influence,
possesses the property of dissolving the mat-
ter which would be deposited by the use of
sugar. Fluid extracts are obtained by perco-
lation, and the menstruum used is alcohol or
alcohol and water, the proportions of each
depending on the nature of the substance to
be extracted. The price of alcohol has greatly
increased since 1860, and a regard to economy
has probably, in some cases, induced devia-
tions in officinal preparations. This point
will probably receive -due consideration at
the next revision of the Pharmacopeia.
4572. Grahame's Method of Perco-
lation. Professor Grahame, of the Maryland
College of Pharmacy, has proposed a modifi-
cation of the displacement process which may
be thus stated : Reduce the substance, by
contusion, to a powder which will pass through
a sieve of 40 meshes to the linear inch (if of
close texture a sieve of 60 meshes is to be
preferred) ; now add just sufficient of the
menstruum to dampen the powder without
wholly destroying its mobility ; this usually
requires about one-fourth as much menstruum
as of the powder. Transfer to a glass funnel
with a plug of cotton in the neck, and pack it
with little or much pressure, according to its
tenacity or disposition to adhere (more firmly
when alcohol or ether is the menstruum than
when water is to be used) ; if the particles of
the moistened powder move freely on each
other, the packing should be with as much
force as a glass vessel will bear, the whole of
the powder being introduced at once, and
packed with a pestle or packing-stick. The
whole quantity of the menstruum may now
be poured on, or to the capacity of the funnel,
and the process allowed to proceed to comple-
tion, without in any case repassing the first
portions of the liquid. By this process, if
carefully followed, very concentrated solutions
are obtained. Indeed, most of the fluid ex-
tracts may be completed with little or no
evaporation.
4573. Procter's Classified Formula
for Making Fluid Extracts. In order to
obtain as great a uniformity in the preparation
of fluid extracts as the nature of the various
drugs would permit, the following practical
classification was drawn up by Professor
William Procter, Jr., and submitted to the
American Pharmaceutical Association, by
whom the matter had been entrusted to him
for investigation. In order to economize
space, we give it in a somewhat condensed
form. The paramount object in obtaining
the fluid extract of a drug, is to extract, as far
as possible, all the valuable ingredients; to
condense them to some uniform standard
strength, so that, for instance, each fluid
ounce of the extract should contain the vir-
tues of, and represent 1 ounce of the drug;
and to leave the fluid in the best possible con-
dition for retaining in solution the active
principles of the drug. The process of perco-
lation is adopted, as best adapted to effect the
desired objects, and admitting a greater de-
gree of accuracy than that of maceration.
Glass funnels answer a good purpose, but
cylindrical percolators may be employed. In
either case, if the powder has been properly
compacted, the menstruum, when added, pass-
es very deliberately, by drops, and it will be
found that the proportion of the percolate
which is directed to be reserved will contain
nearly all of the most valuable parts of the
drug. In this way the action of the heat and
air is entirely prevented on the most import-
ant part of the extracted matter, and where
volatile oils are concerned this fact is particu-
larly important. The ingredients are first re-
duced to a powder; and, in order to ensure
the required result, different degrees of fine-
ness are recommended, suitable to the degree
of solubility and other natural peculiarities of
the various drugs employed. This end is at-
tained by sifting the powder through sieves
containing a certain number of meshes to the
linear inch. A sieve of 40 meshes to the inch
will produce a powder designated as No.
40, <fec.
A new class of oleo-resinous fluid extracts
has been suggested, in which the stronger
aromatics have been introduced, such as
cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, <fcc., and which
possess, for certain uses, very desirable advan-
tages from their concentration. The number
of oleo-resins has been considerably increased,
on the ground that they represent their re-
spective sources more completely and in
smaller bulks than in any other form of fluid
or semi-fluid extracts. On account of their
superior strength, they should occupy a dis-
tinct position under the name of " Olco-resins,"
to distinguish them more particularly from all
those preparations which go by the name of
fluid extracts.
4574. Class No. 1, of Classified Fluid
Extracts. The following substances are to
be reduced to a powder of No. 60 degree of
fineness ; with the exception of Buchu, which
should be in No. 40 powder.
Aconite Leaves.
Belladonna Leaves.
Buchu.
Digitalis (Fox glove).
Henbane Leaves.
Matico.
Thorn-Apple (Stramonium).
Valerian.
The menstruum employed is 2 pints alco-
hol diluted with 1 pint water. Moisten 16
troy ounces of the powdered drug evenly with
4 fluid ounces of the diluted alcohol ; pack it
firmly in a percolator, cover the surface of the
powder with a disc of cloth (muslin, linen,
lint, or any insoluble porous tissue, to prevent
the disturbance of the powder) ; then pour on
the menstruum gradually, so as to displace 3
pints ; reserve the first 12 fluid ounces, and
evaporate the remainder on a water-bath at
150° Fahr., to 4 fluid ounces ; mix this with
the reserved tincture ; and, after standing 24
hours, filter through paper. The alcoholic
strength of these extracts is nearly 50 per
cent.
4575. Class No. 2, of Classified Fluid
Extracts. The drugs included under this
4:20
FLUID EXTRACTS.
class should also be in at least No. 60 pow-
der. Ipecacuanha and jalap may be reduced
to dust with advantage. The fluid to be
used is alcohol having a specific gravity of
.835.
Aconite Root.
Black Snakeroot (Cimici-
fuga, or Black Cohosh).
Black Hellebore.
Ipecacuanha.
Jalap.
May-apple Root (Podo-
phyllum or Maudrake).
BloodRoot (Sanguinaria).
American Hellebore (Ver-
atrumviride).
Colchicum Root.
Columbo.
Chiretta.
Boneset (Eupatorium).
Moisten 16 troy ounces of the drug with 6
fluid ounces of the alcohol ; displace 3 pints
as directed in class 1, reserving the first 4
pint of percolate ; distill the remainder until
reduced to £ pint, and, while hot, mix the dis-
tillate with the reserved tincture. After
standing 24 hours, filter through paper.
4576. Class No. 3, of Classified Fluid
Extracts. The substances included under
this class require to be used in No. 50 pow-
der ; except columbo, No. 40 ; and squill, on
account of its gummy nature, No. 30. The
extract of colchicum deposits, by standing, a
whitish sediment, which is believed to be in
no wise connected with the activity of the
preparation ; it is recommended to allow this
deposit to form before proceeding to filtra-
tion. Dilute alcohol is employed for making
these extracts.
Gentian.
Squill (Scilla).
Seneka.
Virginia Snake Root (Ser-
pentaria).
Moisten 16 troy ounces of the substance
with 4 fluid ounces dilute alcohol, percolate 3
pints, as in class 1, reserving the first 12 fluid
ounces, evaporate the remainder to 4 fluid
ounces by a water-bath at 150° Fahr. ; mix
with the reserved tincture; and, after 24
hours, filter.
4577. Class No. 4, of Classified
Fluid Extracts. This class consists of sac-
charine fluid extracts, the sugar being intro-
duced as a preservative agent. A decided
advantage is gained by adding the sugar to
the extract before the completion of the evap-
oration ; in some cases it might bo better to
add the sugar previous to any evaporation.
The fluid extracts of pipsissewa, bittersweet,
pomegranate, pink-root, and sarsaparilla,
fully represent the several drugs ; and, com-
bined with 3 times their bulk of simiple syrup,
afford syrups of the ordinary strength. The
menstruum used in these preparations is di-
lute alcohol ; and the drags are to bo reduced
to No. 50 powder, except galls, which should
bo No. 40.
Yellow Peruvian Bark
(Cinchona Calisaya).
Pipsissewa (Chimaphila).
Bittersweet (Dulcamara).
Galls.
Crauesbill (Geranium).
Bark
Pom egranate-root
(Granatum).
Blackberry Boot (Rubus).
SarsaparUla.
Pink Root (Spigelia).
Bearberry Leaves (Uva
Ursi).
Moisten 1C troy ounces of the powdered drug
with i pint dilute alcohol ; let it stand 30
minutes, then percolate as directed for class 1,
until 3 pints have passed through ; evaporate
at a moderate heat on a water-bath to 1 pint ;
add 10 ounces sugar, evaporate to 1 pint, and
strain while hot.
4578. Class No. 5, of Classified Fluid
Extracts. The extracts obtained by this
process are termed acetic fluid extracts. The
Orris Root, (Iris Floren-
tina).
Myrrh.
Pellitory Root (Pyreth-
rum).
Allspice (Pimento).
Prickly Ash Bark (Xan-
thoxylum).
acetic acid is introduced to control the ten-
dency to decomposition, caused by the exist-
ence, in the drugs treated in this manner, of a
salt consisting of an alkaloid and an organic
acid. The fluid used is a mixture of i fluid
ounce acetic acid and 3 pints diluted alcohol ;
and the drugs should be reduced to a No. 60
powder.
Ergot. Lobelia Leaves. Hemlock (Conium).
Moisten 16 troy ounces of the powder with
£pint of the acetic mixture; pack it in a con-
ical percolator, and displace 3 pints, reserving
the first 12 fluid ounces, using dilute alcohol
during the last part of the percolation. Evap-
orate the latter percolate to 4 fluid ounces,
at a temperature not exceeding 150° Fahr.;
mix this with the reserved tincture, and fil-
ter through paper.
4579. Class No. 6, of Classified Fluid
Extracts. Under this division are placed
oleoresinous fluid extracts. (See No. 4573.)
The menstruum employed is deodorized alco-
hol, and the drugs are used in No. 50 powder ;
except canella, Ceylon cinnamon, elecampane,
and orris root, used in No. 60, and myrrh in
No. 30 powder.
Capsicum.
Canella.
Cardamom.
Cloves (Caryophyllum).
Ceylon Cinnamon.
Cubebs.
Elecampane (Inula).
Lupulin.
The oleoresin of the above substances are
to be obtained by percolation, and distilling
off the alcohol.
This process of obtaining the oleoresins was
modified before adoption in the U. S. Ph!, by
substituting ether for deodorized alcohol as
the menstruum employed. The five following
oleoresins are officinal preparations.
4580. Oleoresin of Capsicum. Take
12 troy ounces capsicum in fine powder, press
it firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and grad-
ually pour ether on it sufficient to displace 24
fluid ounces. Recover from this, by distilla-
tion on a water-bath, 18 fluid ounces of ether,
and expose the residue in a capsule until the
remaining ether has evaporated ; lastly, re-
move, by straining, the fatty matter which
separates on standing, and keep the oleoresin in
a well stopped bottle. ( U. S. Ph).
4581. Oleoresin of Cubebs. Moderate-
ly press 12 troy ounces cubebs in fine pow-
der into a cylindrical percolator, and treat
by the same process as the capsicum in the
last formula. ( U. S. Ph).
4582. Oleoresin of Lupulin. Press 12
troy ounces lupulin into a narrow cylindrical
percolator, and displace with ether 30 fluid
ounces; complete the process by distillation
and subsequent evaporation in the same way
as for capsicum. (See No. 4580.) (U. jS.
Ph).
4583. Oleoresin of Black Pepper.
Treat 12 troy ounces black pepper in fine
powder, by ethereal percolation and distilla-
tion, in the same manner as laid down in No.
4580 ; expose the residue after distillation in a
capsule, until the remaining ether has evap-
orated and the deposition of piperin in cryr,-
tals has ceased. Lastly, separate the oleoi es-
in from the piperin by expression through a
muslin strainer, and keep in a well -stopped
bottle. ( U. S. Ph).
FLUID EXTRACTS.
4584. Oleoresin of Ginger. Take 12
troy ounces ginger in line powder, press it
firmly into a cylindrical percolator, and pour
upon it 12 fluid ounces stronger ether; con-
tinue the percolation with alcohol sufficient
to displace 12 fluid ounces in all. Recover
from this, by distillation cm a water-bath, 9
fluid ounces ether, and expose the residue in
a capsule until the volatile part has evaporated.
Lastly, keep the oleoresin in a well- stoppered
battle. (17. S. Ph.)
4585. Oleoresin of Male Fern. Pack
closely 2 pounds avoirdupois, male fern, in
coarse powder in a percolator ; displace with
4 imperial pints ether, or until it passes color-
less. Let the ether evaporate on a water-
bath, or recover it by distillation, and pre-
serve the oily extract. (Br. Ph.) This prep-
aration by its character decidedly belongs to
the oleoresius ; it has long been known and
much used in Europe, under the name of oil
of fern, in the treatment of the tapeworm.
It is believed to have all the vermifugal pow-
ers of the malo fern, and may be given in •£
fluid drachm doses. ( U. S. Dis.)
4586. Fluid Extract of Rhubarb and
Potassa. Grind or coarsely bruise 2 pounds
avoirdupois best India rhubarb, 1 pound cassia
or cinnamon, and 1 pound golden seal ; mace-
rate for 24 hours or more in 1 gallon good
French brandy; express strongly, and add 1
fluid drachm 'oil of peppermint previously
dissolved in a little 90 per cent, alcohol.
Break up the compressed residue, and per-
colate with warm water until exhausted.
Evaporate this solution to 4 pints, and, while
warm (not too hot), dissolve in it 2 pounds
bicarbonate of potassa, and 3 pounds refined
sugar ; evaporate, if necessary, to the quan-
tity that the first macerated tincture lacks of
1£ gallons. Lastly mix the two together. It
is used for the same purposes as the compound
powder of rhubarb, 2 fluid drachms of the
extract being equivalent to 1 drachm of the
powder. (Am. Dis.) A simple alkaline ex
tract of rhubarb is given in No. 4591.
4587. Fluid Extract of Stillingia.
Cut fresh root of Stillingia, 16 troy ounces,
into small pieces ; cover with alcohol, and
digest for 24 hours. Then transfer to a per-
colator, and pack it so as to run slowly ; add
alcohol gradually, returning the first that
passes until it runs clear. Reserve the first
12 fluid ounces percolated ; then continue the
percolation, with diluted alcohol, until the
residuum is nearly exhausted ; add 8 ounces
white sugar to this dilute percolate, and evap-
orate by moderate heat to 4 fluid ounces.
Add to this the reserved tincture, and 1 fluid
drachm oil of caraway, and make 1 pint fluid
extract. The dose is from 2 to 5 drops.
4588. Fluid Extract of Yarrow.
Take of yarrow (the recently dried herb)
in coarse powder, 8 ounces ; dilute alcohol (2
parts 95 per cent, alcohol and 1 part water),
a sufficient quantity. Pour over the powdered
herb 4 ounces of the diluted alcohol, and work
through with the hands until thoroughly
moistened ; allow it to stand in a covered
jar for 24 hours. Pack closely in a funnel or
other displacer and proceed to displace until
24 fluid ounces are obtained, which, if per-
formed with proper care, will exhaust the
herb, as tested, by tasting the droppings.
The resulting liquid should be exposed in a
shallow dish (in summer to a draught of air
under an open window, in winter on a shelf
near the top of the room), and allowed to
evaporate spontaneously until it measures 16
fluid ounces; 30 cr 40 grains bicarbonate of
potassa in powder may then be added, which
retains the extractive in solution, and clears
the liquid without interfering with its proper-
ties. The* evaporation of this fluid extract
may be continued, if desired, with a very gen-
tle heat (in a water-bath) until reduced to
the consistence of an ordinary extract. The
result in either case, fluid or solid, possesses
in a marked degree the sensible and other pro-
perties of the herb, each tea-spoonful repre-
senting 30 grains of the herb.
4589. Procter's Fluid Extract of
Wild Cherry Bark. Take of wild cherry
bark, 24 ounces; sweet almonds, 3 ounces;
and pure granulated sugar, 36 ounces. Mace-
rate the powdered bark in 2 pints of 83 per
cent, alcohol for 8 hours, introduce it into a
percolator, and pour alcohol on it until 5
pints have passed, observing to regulate the
passage of the liquid by a cork or stop-cock.
Introduce the tincture into a capsule (or still,
if the alcohol is to be regained), and evapo-
rate it to a syrupy consistence; add i pint
water, and again evaporate until all the alco-
hol is removed. Beat the almonds, without
bleaching, into a smooth paste with a little of
the water, and then sufficient to make the
emulsion measure 1£ pints, and pour it into a
quart bottle, previously containing the solu-
tion of the extract of bark; cork it securely
and agitate occasionally for 24 hours, so as to
give time for the decomposition of the atuyg-
daline. The mixture is then to be quickly
expressed and filtered into a bottle containing
the sugar. "Water should be added to the
dregs and they again expressed till sufficient
liquor is obtained to make the fluid extract
measure 3 pints. The proportion of sugar,
though less than that in syrup, is sufficient to
preserve the preparation, aided by the presence
of hydrocyanic acid.
4590. Parrish's Compound Fluid Ex-
tract of Buchu. Take of buchu, in coarse
powder, 12 ounces ; alcohol, 3 pints ; water, 6
pints, or sufficient. Treat the leaves by ma-
ceration and displacement, first with a por-
tion of the alcohol, and then with the remain-
der mixed with the water; evaporate the
resulting liquid with a gentle heat to 3 pints,
and add 2^- pounds sugar. Continue the heat
till it is dissolved, and, after removing from
the fire, add oil of cubebs, oil of juniper, of
each 1 fluid drachm ; spirit of nitric ether, 12
fluid ounces, previously mixed. Stir to-
gether.
4591. Alkaline Fluid Extract of
Rhubarb. Take of fluid extract of rhubarb
(by repercolation), 1 fluid ounce; neutral
carbonate of potassa, 80 grains ; water, 1 fluid
ounce. Dissolve the carbonate in the water;
to this add the fluid extract, and let the mix-
ture repose 6 to 12 hours ; then strain
through muslin, and filter, if desirable. The
alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb can bo mixed
with water in any proportion, affording a per-
fectly clear and transparent liquid of a deep
red color. Another alkaline fluid extract of
rhubarb will be found in N"o. 4586.
4=22
FLUID EXTRACTS.
4592. Moore's Fluid Estract of Cimi-
cifuga Bacemosa (Black Cohosh or
Black Snakeroot.) Take of ciruicifuga, in
No. 50 powder, 16 ounces, troy; alcohol 95
per cent., diluted alcohol, of each a sufficient
quantity. Moisten the root with the alcohol,
pack closely in the displacer, and pour on al-
cohol gradually until 8 fluid ounces have
passed through, which reserve in a covered
vessel to prevent evaporation, then proceed
with dilute alcohol until the root is thor-
oughly exhausted. Evaporate over a water-
bath until all the alcohol is driven off; set it
aside to cool, that the resinous portion ex-
tracted may be deposited, which separate and
add to the alcoholic portion first obtained;
then proceed with the evaporation until re-
duced to 8 fluid ounces, and mix the two pro-
ducts ; allow it to stand 48 hours, and then
filter. (See No. 4575.)
4593. Compound Fluid Extract of
Squills. This is alcoholic, in which 3 parts
alcohol are diluted with 1 part water. Take
of squills and seneka, each 16 ounces troy, re-
duced to a moderately coarse powder. Moist-
en with about 12 ounces of the liquid, and
pack firmly in a conical percolator ; cover the
surface with a cloth and pour on of the same
menstruum until 6 pints have slowly passed,
reserving carefully the first 24 ounces. Evap-
orate the remainder in a water-bath at 150°
Fahr., until reduced to 8 fluid ounces. Mix
it with the reserved tincture, and, after stand-
ing, with occasional agitation, for 24 hours,
filter, dropping sufficient of the menstruum
on the filter to make the whole measure 2
pints. Hive Syrup may now be prepared
from this extract by taking : compound fluid
extract of squills, 4 fluid ounces ; tartar emet-
ic, 24 grains ; simple syrup, 20 fluid ounces ;
hot water, £ fluid ounce. Dissolve the tartar
emetic in the water, and mix with the other
ingredients.
4594. Procter's Fluid Extract of
Hops. Take hops in coarse powder, 16 troy
ounces. Mix in 4 ounces dilute alcohol ; pack
it in a conical percolator, cover the surface
with cloth, and add dilute alcohol until 3 pints
of tincture have slowly passed, carefully re-
serving the first 12 ounces. Evaporate the
remainder of the tincture in a water-bath still
to 4 fluid ounces, mix it with the reserved
tincture, agitate occasionally during 24 hours,
and filter, dropping sufficient dilute alcohol
on the filter to make the measure of a pint.
4595. Procter's Fluid Extract of
Liquorice. Take of Calabria liquorice, 8
troy ounces ; and sugar in coarse powder, 10
troy ounces. Bruise the liquorice till it is re-
duced to pieces the size of a pea, enclose it
in a gauze cloth, suspend it in a pint vessel,
cover it with cold water, let it stand 12
hours (if in summer in a cool place), pour off
the dense solution, renew the water, and again
macerate and decant. Mix the two liquids,
evaporate to 12 fluid ounces, dissolve in it the
sugar, and again, evaporate until the measure
of 1 pint is obtained.
4596. Grahaxne's Fluid Extract of
Burdock. Take of burdock, in No. 50 pow-
der, 16 ounces; dilute alcohol (alcohol
parts, water 7 parts), a sufficient quantity.
Dampen the powder with the menstruum and
pack it in a suitable glass displacer ; having
covered the surface with a piece of muslin or
perforated paper, pour on the menstruum,
and continue the percolation to exhaustion,
reserving li ounces of the first runnings, evap-
orate the remainder over a water-bath until
reduced to 9 fluid ounces, to which add 4
ounces sugar and dissolve. Strain, if neces-
sary, and add the reserved portion. The dose
of the extract is one tea-spoonful, representing
80 grains of the root. Burdock is one of the
best vegetable alteratives, or blood depurents,
and it is believed that this fluid extract might
be advantageously substituted for that of sar-
saparilla, as a more efficient and reliable
alterative, or at least as a valuable addition
to it. t
4597. Fluid Extract of Chamomile.
Take of fresh chamomile flowers, 1 pound;
alcohol of specific gravity .871. Moisten the
chamomile in coarse powder, with the alcohol,
then pack in a percolator, and cover with the
alcohol ; digest 6 days, and draw off 12 oun-
ces, which set aside. Continue the displace-
ment with diluted alcohol, until it is freely
exhausted of its bitterness, which evaporate
in a vacuum to 4 fluid ounces. Mix and fiter.
1 drachm of this preparation represents 60
grains of chamomile flowers, which is usually
given in doses of 20 grains, 'as a tonic, to 1
drachm, as an antiperiodic — making the dose
for like cases from 20 minims to 1 fluid
drachm.
4598. Fluid Extract of Seneka. The
formula for making this extract will be found
in No. 4576, but seneka yields its active prin-
ciples so easily and entirely, that an extract
of it may be obtained of standard strength
without evaporation. If a convenient quan-
tity of seneka in No. 50 powder be divided
into 3 equal parts, and repercolated with 85
per cent, alcohol, an extract will be obtained,
each fluid ounce of which will represent a
troy ounce of the root.
4599. Fluid Extract of Ipecacuanha.
Moisten 16 troy ounces ipecacuanha in fine
powder with 6 fluid ounces alcohol ; press it
firmly into a conical percolator, and displace 3
pints of tincture, or until the ipecacuanha is
exhausted. Distill the tincture over a water-
bath until the residue is of a syrupy consist-
ence. Mix with 1 fluid ounce acetic acid
and 10 fluid ounces water; boil until reduced
to -J- pint, and the resinous matter has separa-
ted. Filter when cold, and add water through
the filter to make the filtrate up to -J pint.
Mix with k pint alcohol. ( U. S. Ph.)
It is affirmed that syrup made from extract
prepared according to the above formula is
apt to become cloudy. It is proposed to
avoid this result by dividing ipecacuanha in '
No. 50 powder into 3 parts, and obtaining
the extract by repercolation in the same man-
ner as the seneka in No. 4598.
4600. Fluid Extract of Sumach.
Take 4 pints 76 per cent, alcohol, and 1 pound
of the recently dried bark of Khus Glabrum
(sumach) in coarse powder. Moisten the
powdered bark with sufficient alcohol and let
it macerate for 24 hours, then percolate with
the remainder of the alcohol, returning tha
first that passes until it runs clear. Reserve
the first 4 clear fluid ounces of tincture, evap-
orate the remainder to 4 fluid ounces, and
set aside. Then percolate the residuum near-
MEDICINAL ESSENCES.
423
ly to exhaustion with hot water, evaporate
this aqueous solution to £ pint, then add to
it 4 ounces white sugar, evaporate to 8 fluid
ounces, and, while warm, mix it with the re-
served 8 ounces of tincture to make 1 pint of
fluid extract. ( Am. Dis.)
46pl. Fluid Extract of Scullcap.
This is prepared from 1 pound of the dried
leaves of scullcap (scutellaria) in precisely
the same manner as directed for fluid extract
of sumach in preceding receipt. (Am. Dis.)
4602. Fluid Extract of Life-Root is
obtained from 1 pound recently dried life-root
(senecio aureus) in the same manner as
the sumach in No. 4GOO. (Am. Dis.)
4603. Fluid Extract of Senna and
Jalap. Take 6 pints 76 per cent, alcohol.
Mix together 1 pound senna and ^ pound
jalap root, both in coarse powder; moisten
them with some of the alcohol, and macerate
for 24 hours. Transfer to a percolator and
displace with the remainder of the alcohol ;
reserve the first 6 fluid ounces ; evaporate the
remainder to 6 fluid ounces and set also aside.
Nearly exhaust the residuum with diluted
alcohol and evaporate it to 12 fluid ounces ;
add 8 ounces white sugar; again evaporate
to 12 fluid ounces, and, while warm, add 6
drachms carbonate of potassa, 40 minims oil
of cloves dissolved in li fluid drachms Hoff-
man's anodyne, and the 12 ounces reserved
extract, making altogether li pints fluid ex-
tract. (Am. Dis.)
4604. Fluid Extract of Blessed This-
tle. Take 16 troy ounces blessed thistle
(carduus benedictus) in No. 40 powder,
dampen it with about 6 ounces dilute alcohol,
and pack it in a suitable glass percolator;
having covered the surface with a piece of
muslin or a layer of clean sand (which is more
convenient), displace with dilute alcohol.
"When 1 pint of liquid shall have passed, put
it aside in a warm place for spontaneous
evaporation until reduced to 10 fluid ounces.
Continue the percolation with diluted alcohol
until 2 more pints of liquid have passed ; to
these add 6 ounces sugar and reduce by evap-
oration over a water-bath to 6 fluid ounces,
adding, while still hot, the 10 orihces of con-
centrated tincture; on cooling, the mixture
becomes slightly turbid, but by the addition
of a few drops of alcohol the resinous matter
is redissolved, making a dark brown fluid
extract which may be filtered if necessary.
4605. Fluid Extract of Cinchona.
Take cinchona (calisaya) in powder, 8 troy
ounces ; simple (officinal) syrup, 4 fluid oun-
ces ; glycerine, 4 fluid ounces ; alcohol, -con-
centrated and diluted, a sufficient quantity.
Moisten the cinchona with 6 fluid ounces of
diluted alcohol ; allow it to stand in a covered
jar for three hours, and then transfer it to a
cylindrical percolator. Pack it firmly, and
gradually pour upon it diluted alcohol, until
12 fluid ounces of the tincture have been
obtained. Set this aside, and continue the
percolation with dilute alcohol, until the cin-
chona is thoroughly exhausted. To the last
percolate add the syrup and glycerine, and
evaporate by means of a water-bath to about
10 flui*d ounces. To this add the reserve
tincture, and continue the evaporation to 14
fluid ounces. Remove from the water-bath,
and, when nearly cold, add sufficient alcohol to
make the whole measure 16 fluid ounces.
Each pint of the fluid extract contains nearly
2£ ounces of alcohol. (See No. 4577.)
4606. Fluid Extract of Pareira. Di-
gest for 24 hours 1 pound pareira root, in
coarse powder, in 1 pint boiling distilled wa-
ter ; then pack it in a percolator, and displace
1 gallon, or until the pareira root is exhausted.
Evaporate over a water-bath to 13 fluid oun-
ces; when cold add 3 fluid ounces rectified
spirit, and filter through paper. This is the
officinal formula of the British Pharmacopoeia,
consequently avoirdupois weight and imperial
measure are to be used in preparing it. The
dose consists of 1 to 2 fluid drachms.
4607. Moore's Fluid Extract of Va-
nilla. Take 8 troy ounces vanilla, and an
equal weight of crushed loaf sugar. Slit the
pods from end to end with a knife ; then take
them in small bundles, held tightly between
the fingers, and cut them transve'rsely into
very small pieces. Of these, beat small por-
tions at a time in an iron mortar, with a little
of the sugar, until reduced to a damp powder,
which must be rubbed with the hand through
a No. 20 sieve; any coarse particles which
will not pass through the sieve must be re-
turned to the mortar, and, with fresh portions
of vanilla and sugar, again treated as before.
This is to be continued until the whole is re-
duced to a No. 20 powder. This is then to
be mixed with 5 pints of a mixture of 3 parts
alcohol and 1 part water, and the whole intro-
duced into a 1-gallon stone jug, which must be
tightly corked. The jug is then placed in a
water-bath, resting upon folds of paper, and
the mixture digested for 2 hours at a tempera-
ture of from 160° to 170° Fahr. The upper
part of the jug must be kept cool (to prevent
the undue expansion of vapor), by wrapping
around it a towel or other cloth kept saturated
by having cold water squeezed upon it from
a sponge every 15 or 20 minutes. The jug
should also be removed from the bath after
each application of the water, and its contents
well shaken, keeping the hand upon the cork
to prevent its expulsion, and perhaps conse-
quent loss of material. When the digestion
has been completed, and the mixture has
cooled, it is to be expressed through muslin.
Pack the residue, previously rubbed with the
hands to a uniform condition, firmly in a glass
funnel prepared for percolation, and gradually
pour upon it first the expressed liquid, and
when this has all disappeared from the sur-
face, continue the percolation with a mixture
of 3 parts alcohol and 1 part water, until 8
pints of percolate are obtained.
Medicinal Essences. The
usual rule for making essences, is to
mix 1 ounce of the essential oil with 1 quart
of alcohol ; although much is sold that con-
tains only £ ounce, and even i ounce of the
oil to the quart. A strong essence would
consist of 1 ounce of oil to 1 pint of alcohol ;
from 10 to 30 drops of this would make a
dose.
4609. To Color Medicinal Essences.
Essence of peppermint is generally colored
with tincture of turmeric ; essence of cinna-
4:24=
MEDICINAL ESSENCES.
mon with tincture of red sandal wood ; win-
tergreen with tincture of kino. The best way
of coloring an essence is to steep for 12 hours
the green leaf or other substance from which
the oil is made, and then filter. The coloring
is merely a matter of appearance ; the essences
are just as good without it.
4610. Essence of Peppermint. Oil
of peppermint, 1 ounce; herb peppermint, £
ounce; spirit of wine, 1 pint. Digest for a
week, or until sufficiently colored. Palish-
green, and very strong of the peppermint.
Essence of peppermint is not conceived to be
good by the ignorant unless it has a pale tint
of green, which they presume is a proof of its
being genuine. The most harmless way is to
steep a little of the green peppermint in the
spirit for this purpose (as above), or if this is
not at hand, a little parsley will do equally as
well, and in fact improve the flavor.
4611. Essence of Camphor, also
called Liquor of Camphor; Concentra-
ted Tincture of Camphor; Camphor-
Drops. Dissolve 4£ drachms (avoirdupois)
clear camphor, in 1 imperial pint rectified
spirit. This forms the ordinary essence of
camphor and the best spirit of camphor of the
stores. Added to 15 times its bulk of pure
cold water, it forms (by agitation) a transpa-
rent solution exactly resembling the camphor-
julep, camphor-water, or camphor-mixture
used in medicine, and which, either alone or
with a little more water, forms an excellent
wash for the teeth and mouth, as noticed else-
where. (See No. 1335.)
Dissolve 1 avoirdupois ounce camphor in 10
ounces rectified spirit. This forms the Con-
centrated Essence of Camphor of the druggists.
10 or 12 drops added to 1 fluid ounce of pure
cold water form the transparent camphor-
julep or camphor-water before noticed.
4612. Essence of Coltsfoot. Balsam
of tolu, 1 ounce ; compound tincture of ben-
zoin and rectified spirit of wine, of each 2
ounces ; dissolve.
4813. Essence of Cliamomile. Es-
sential oil of chamomile, h ounce to 1 ounce ;
spirit of wine, 1 pint; mix. "White. Or:
Gentian root, sliced or bruised, 1 pound ; dried
orange peel, £ pound ; spirit of wine, 1 gallon;
essential oil of chamomile, 5 ounces ; macerate
a week. Slightly colored. Some persons
use k pound of quassia wood, instead of the
gentian and orange peel. Both the above are
stomachic and tonic.
4614. Essence of Spearmint. 1
ounce of essential oil to 1 pint of spirit of
wine tinged green. Process, use, and dose,
the same as essence of peppermint. (See
No. 4G10.)
4615. Bitter Essence. Wormwood, 4
parts; gentian root, bitter orange peel, and
messed thistle, of each 1 part; alcohol, 45
parts; digest for a week. Dose, h drachm to
2 drachms, combined with mixtures. Tonic
and stomachic.
4616. Essence of Beef. Chop fine 1
pound lean beef, place it with J pint of water
in a bottle which they will only half fill, and
agitate violently for half an hour ; then throw
the whole on a sieve, and receive the liquid
in a jug. Next, boil the undissolved portion
in 1 pint of water for 20 minutes ; strain, and
mix the decoction with the cold infusion;
evaporate the liquid to the consistence of
thin syrup, adding spice, salt, &c., to suit the
taste, and pour the essence, while boiling hot,
into bottles (see next receipt), or jars, or (still
better) tin cans, which must be closed up air-
tight, and kept in a cool place. (See No. 1634.)
4617. To Fill Glass Bottles with
Boiling Liquid. If boiling liquid be poured
into cold bottles, there is a groat risk of the
bottle breaking, involving probably the loss
of the contents. To prevent this,'stand the
bottles in a wide pan with sufficient cool
water to reach nearly to the top of the bot-
tles ; pour sufficient water in each bottle to
prevent it floating, and then let the water in
the pan be brought gradually to a boil. As
each bottle is to be filled, take it out of the
pan, empty the water out of it, and fill it im-
mediately.
4618. Ellis's Essence of Beef. Take
lean beef, sliced thin, sufficient to fill the body
of a porter bottle; cork it loosely, and place it
in a pot of cold water, attaching the neck by
means of a string to the handle of the pot ;
boil for 1| or 2 hours, then decant the liquid
and skim it. This can be seasoned and packed
as in receipt No. 4616.
4619. Concentrated Essence of Gin-
ger. Unbleached, well-bruised Jamaica gin-
ger, 4 ounces; rectified spirit of wine, 1 pint;
digest for 2 weeks, press and filter.
4620. Oxley's Concentrated Essence
of Jamaica Ginger. The same as the preced-
ing, with the addition of a very small quantity
of essence of cayenne.
4621. Very Strong Concentrated. Es-
sence of Ginger. Bruised unbleached
Jamaica ginger, 12 pounds ; rectified spirit of
wine, '2k gallons; digest 14 days, press, strain,
and reduce the essence by distillation to 1
gallon ; cool and filter. This produces a
most beautiful article. It is at once inexpen-
sive and easily performed, as the spirit distill-
ed off may be used with advantage for pre-
paring the common tincture of ginger, and
several other articles; 2 ounces of this essence
are regarded as equivalent to 3 ounces of the
finest ginger. A single drop swallowed will
almost produce suffocation.
4622. Concentrated Essence of Gin-
ger. Ginger and animal charcoal, both in
coarse powder, equal parts ; add enough rec-
tified spirits of wine to perfectly moisten
them, and after 24 hours put the mass into a
percolator, return the first runnings 2 or 3
times, then change the receiver, and pour on
spirit gradually as required, and at intervals,
until as much essence is obtained as there was
ginger employed. Quality excellent. The
mass remaining in the percolator may be
treated with fresh spirit until exhausted, and
the tincture so obtained may be advantage-
ously employed, instead of spirit, in making
more essence with fresh ginger. The last por-
tion of spirit in the mass may be obtained by
adding a little water. (See Percolation, No.
41.)
4623. Concentrated Essence of Gua-
iacum. Guaiacurn shavings, from which the
dust has been sifted, 3 cwt. Exhaust the
wood by boiling with water, as in preparing
an extract, using as little of that fluid as is
absolutely necessary ; evaporate to exactly
If gallons ; let it stand until cold, stirring it
MEDICATED SYEUPS.
4:25
all the time to prevent the deposit of resinous
matter; put the whole into a bottle; add
spirit of wine, 5 pints ; agitate repeatedly for
a week, then allow it to settle for 7 or 8 days,
and decant the clear into another bottle.
This preparation is frequently substituted for
guaiacum shavings in the preparation of com-
pound decoction of sarsaparilla. 1 pint of
this essence is considered equivalent to 19
pounds of guaiacum in substance.
4624. Essence of Quinine. Take dilute
sulphate of quinine, 1 drachm ; rectified spirit,
1 fluid ounce; mix, add of dilute sulphuric
acid (specific gravity 1.087 to 1.090), i fluid
drachm (or less, on no account more), and
agitate it thoroughly until solution is com-
plete. A few drops added to water form an
excellent wash for foul, spongy, and tender
gums, loose teeth, &c. ; also for weak hair.
4629. Easton's Syrup of Phosphate
of Iron, Quinine, and Strychnine. Take
of phosphate of iron, 192 grains; phosphate
of quinia, or quinia prepared as directed in No.
46'27, 96 grains; strychnia (in crystals), 3
grains ; water, 7 fluid drachms ; syrupy phos-
phoric acid (specific gravity 1.5), 9 fluid
drachms; syrup, 10 fluid ounces. Eub the
phosphate of iron with 5 drachms of the wa-
ter in a glass mortar, dissolve the strychnia
and quinia in the acid, previously mixed with
the remaining 2 drachms of water ; mix and
filter into the syrup. Each fluid drachm con-
tains 2 grains of phosphate of iron, 1 grain of
phosphate of quinine, and ^ part of a grain
of strychnine.
In "this formula avoirdupois weight and
Imperial measure are adopted.
4630. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron
and Strychnine may be prepared in the same
manner as the last, omitting the phosphate of
quinine.
4631. Phosphate of Iron. Dissolve 3
ounces sulphate of iron in 2 pints boiling dis-
tilled water, dissolve also 1 ounce acetate of
soda and 2£ ounces phosphate of soda in
another 2 pints boiling distilled water. Mix
the 2 solutions, filter the precipitate through
muslin, wash it with hot distilled water till
the washings no longer form a precipitate
with chloride of barium. Dry at a heat not
exceeding 120° Fahr. (Br. Ph).
4632. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron.
Phosphate of iron, 96 grains ; water, 9 fluid
s ; syrupy phosphoric acid (specific i drachms ; syrupy phosphoric acid (specific
1.5), 5 fluid drachms; syrup, 10 fluid gravity 1.5), 7 fluid drachms; syrup, 10 fluid
ounces. Kub the phosphate of iron with the
water in a glass mortar, add the phosphoric
acid, and filter the mixture into the syrup.
Medicated Syrups.
is a concentrated solution o
Syrup
is a concentrated "'solution of sugar in
watery fluids. If made with pure water, it is
termed syrup or simple syrup. "Where the
water contains one or more medicinal agents,
it is called medicated syrup. Full informa-
tion as to preparation, &c., will be found in
Jfos. 1356, <fcc.
4626. Syrup of Phosphate of Zinc.
Phosphate of zinc, 192 grains ; water, 11 fluid
drachms
gravity
ounces. Kub the phosphate with the water,
add the acid, and filter into the syrup. Each
fluid drachm contains 2 grains of zinc phos-
phate and about 18 minims of dilute phos-
phoric acid. In this formula, avoirdupois
weight and Imperial measure are adopted.
4627. Syrup of Phosphate of Quinine.
Take .of phosphate of quinia, 96 grains ; wa-
ter, 13 i fluid drachms; syrupy phosphoric
acid (specific gravity 1.5), 24 fluid drachms;
syrup, 10 fluid drachms. Mix the acid with
the water, add the quinia. and filter into the
syrup. Each fluid drachm contains 1 grain
of * phosphate of quinine and acid equal to
about 10 minims of the dilute phosphoric
acid.
The same weight of quinia, prepared by
precipitating an acidulated solution of the
disulphate by solution of ammonia, collecting,
washing, and drying at 100° Fahr., may be
used, in the absence of the phosphate. In
this formula avoirdupois weight and Imperial
measure are intended.
As thus prepared, it contains the same pro-
portion of iron, about 2 minims less of the
dilute acid (25 instead of 27), and rather more
sugar than when prepared according to the
British Pharmacopeia. The phosphate of
iron is made by the Br. Ph. process, and dried
at a temperature not exceeding 100° Fahr.
The specimens found in the ordinary course
of trade are not readily soluble in the acid.
This want of solubility is believed to be due
to the length of time they have been kept
before sale, as the best results have been ob-
tained with the phosphate only a few days
old. In this formula avoirdupois weight and
Imperial measure are adopted.
4633. Syrup of Phosphate of Man-
ganese may be prepared in a similar man-
ner with the following ingredients : Phos-
phate of manganese, 96 grains ; water, 9 fluid
drachms; syrupy phosphoric acid (specific
4628. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron gravity 1.5), 9 fluid drachms; syrup, 10 fluid
with Quinine. Take of phosphate of iron
192 grains ; phosphate of quinia, 96 grains ;
water, 7 fluid drachms; syrupy phosphoric
acid (specific gravity 1.5), 9 fluid drachms;
syrup, 10 fluid ounces. Rub the powders
with the water, add the acid, and filter into
the syrup. Each fluid drachm contains 2
grains' of phosphate of iron and 1 grain of
phosphate of quinine. In the absence of the
phosphate of quinia, the same weight of
quinia may be prepared as directed in No.
4627.
In this formula avoirdupois weight and
Imperial measure are adopted.
ounces. Strength, 1 grain phosphate of man-
ganese, and acid equal to about 25 minims of
the dilute phosphoric acid in each fluid
drachm. The phosphate of manganese is
made in the same manner as the phosphate
of iron, substituting sulphate of manganese
for the sulphate of iron. In this formula
avoirdupois weight and Imperial measure are
intended.
4634. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron
with Manganese. Phosphate of iron, 72
grains ; phosphate of manganese, 48 grains ;
water, 8 fluid drachms; syrupy phosphoric
acid, 8 fluid drachms ; syrup, 10 fluid ounces.
MEDICATED SYKUPS.
Rub the powders with the water, add the acid,
and filter into the syrup. Each fluid drachm
contains f grain phosphate of iron, -J- grain
phosphate of manganese, and acid equal to
about 30 minims of the dilute phosphoric acid,
B. Ph. Avoirdupois weight and Imperial
measure are understood in the above formula.
4635. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron
and Lime. Take of phosphate of iron, 96
grains; phosphate of lime, 192 grains ; water,
8 fluid drachms; syrupy phosphoric acid,
(specific gravity 1.5), 8 fluid drachms ; syrup,
10 fluid ounces. Mix the powders with the
water in a glass mortar, add the acid, and filter
into the syrup. Each fluid drachm contains
1 grain of phosphate of iron, 2 grains of phos-
phate of lime, and an amount of acid equal to
about 30 minims of the dilute phosphoric acid,
B. Ph. The phosphate of lime is made by
precipitation from solutions of chloride of cal-
cium and phosphate of soda, and dried at
100° Fahr., and should not be kept too long
before use. In this formula avoirdupois
weight and Imperial measure are adopted.
4636. Dufand's Syrup of Phosphate
of Lime. Take of precipitated phosphate of
lime, 128 grains ; glacial phosphoric acid, 240
grains; sugar, in coarse powder, 7i ounces;
distilled water, 4 fluid ounces ; essence of
lemon, 12 drops. Mix the phosphate of lime
with the water in a porcelain capsule, over a
spirit or gas lamp, or in a sand-bath; add
gradually the phosphoric acid until the whole
of the phosphate of lime is dissolved. To this
solution add sufficient water to compensate
for the evaporation, then dissolve the sugar
by a gentle heat, and, when perfectly cold,
add the essence of lemon. The syrup ol
phosphate of lime, thus prepared, is colorless,
transparent, of an acid taste, and contains
two grains of the phosphate of lime, anc
nearly four grains of phosphoric acid to each
tea-spoonful. "WTien diluted it forms a phos-
phoric lemonade, not unpleasant to the taste.
Dose, a tea-spoonful.
4637. Wiegand's Syrup of Phos-
phate of Lime. Dissolve 1 ounce precipita-
ted phosphate of lime in 1 fluid ounce water
by means of 4 fluid drachms muriatic acid
filter, and add 6£ fluid ounces water; then
add 12 fluid ounces sugar, and strain. Dose
a tea-spoonful. This preparation is not so
acid as Durand's, which is thought to be an
advantage in some cases.
4638. Syrup of Rhubarb. The offici
nal method of preparing the fluid extract o
rhubarb employed for the syrnp involves
much concentration by evaporation, and re
suits in an unsightly preparation, and liabl<
to an objectional resinous precipitation. Bi
a modified process a fluid extract of rhubarb
equal to the officinal in strength, is first ob
tained by repercolating rhubarb, in moderate
ly fine powder, with a mixture of 3 parti
officinal alcohol and 1 part water. Thi:
menstruum exhausts rhubarb completelj
with the greatest facility. To make th
syrup, take of this fluid extract, 3 fluid oun
ces ; sugar, 28 troy ounces ; water, a sufficien
quantity. Add the fluid extract to 12 fluic
ounces of water, filter, make up the filtrate to
the measure of a pint by adding water
through the filter, and dissolve in it the sugar
with the aid of a gentle heat, and strain
hrough muslin. The result is splendid. An
jqual product is obtained by mixing the offi-
iinal fluid extract with water, letting it re-
ose some hours, filtering, and then complet-
ng as above.
4639. Syrup of Rhubarb and Sen-
la. Digest for 14 days 6 ounces each
)ruised rhubarb root and senna leaves, and
.i ounces cardamom seeds, in 6 pints dilute
alcohol; filter, and evaporate to 3 pints.
Mix 12 ounces of this with syrup made of 2
)ounds sugar evaporated to 1 k pints, and mix
vhile hot. This produces a syrup of 30°
Baume", which will not ferment.
4640. Stewart's Simple Syrup of
Rhubarb. Macerate 6 ounces bruised rhu-
barb in 4 ounces dilute alcohol ; press and
filter, and evaporate to 2 pints. Mix 8 fluid
ounces of this tincture with 28 fluid ounces
iimple syrup.
4641. Procter's Compound Syrup of
Hypophosphites. Take of hypophosphite
of lime, 256 grains ; hyposulphite of soda, 192
strains; hyposulphite of potassa, 128 grains ;
hyposulphate ot iron (recently precipitated),
96 grains ; white sugar, 9 ounces ; extract of
vanilla, k ounce. Dissolve the salts of lime,
soda, and potassa, in six ounces of water ; put
the iron salt in a mortar and gradually add a
solution of hypophosphorus acid till it is dis-
solved. To this add the solution of the other
salts, after it has been rendered slightly acid-
ulous with the same acid, and then water, till
the whole measures 12 fluid ounces. Dissolve
in this the sugar, with heat, and flavor with
the vanilla. "Without flavoring, this syrwp is
not unpleasant.
4642. Hypophosphite of Iron. Hy-
pophosphite of iron is obtained when 128
grains of hypophosphite of soda, dissolved in
2 ounces of water, are decomposed with a
slight excess of solution of persulphate of
iron, and the white precipitate well washed
on a filter with water.
4643. Parrish's Compound Syrup of
Hypophosphites. Take of hypophosphite
of lime, 1^ ounces ; hypophosphite of soda, £
ounce ; hypophosphito of potassa, i ounce ;
cane sugar, 1 pound, troy; hot water, 20
fluid ounces; orange water, 1 fluid ounce.
Make a solution of the mixed salts in the hot
water, filter through paper, dissolve the sugar
in the solution by the aid of heat; strain, and
add the orange-flower water. Dose, a tea-
spoonful, containing nearly five grains of the
mixed salts.
4644. Compound Syrup of Phosphate
of Iron. Dissolve 10 drachms protosulphate
of iron in 2 fluid ounces boiling water; also
dissolve 12 drachms phosphate of soda in 4
fluid ounces boiling water ; mix the solutions
and wash the precipitated, phosphate of iron
till the washings are tasteless. Dissolve 12
drachms phosphate of lime in 4 fluid ounces
boiling water with sufficient muriatic acid to
make a clear solution, precipitate it with
water of ammonia, and wash the precipitate.
To these two precipitates add 20 drachms
glacial phosphoric acid dissolved in water;
when clear add 2 scruples carbonate of soda,
and 1 drachm carbonate of potassa. Next
add sufficient muriatic acid to dissolve the
precipitate ; and lastly 2 drachms powdered
cochineal mixed with 3 pounds (troy) sugar ;
MEDICATED SYRUPS.
4,27
apply heat, and, when the syrup is formed,
strain. It is a question whether a simple
syrup of phosphate of iron is not equally effi-
cacious with Professor Parrish's more compli-
cated preparation given above, and known as
Parrish's Chemical Food. Each tea-spoonful
contains 1 grain phosphate of iron, 2i grains
phosphate of lime, with smaller quantities
of the alkaline phosphates, all in perfect so-
lution.
4645. Chemical Food. This is pre-
pared by the same formula as Professor Par-
rish's (see No. 4644), omitting the cochineal
and muriatic acid, and with this modification
was adopted, as well as the two following
receipts, by the Newark Pharmaceutical As-
sociation.
4646. Compound Syrup of Hypo-
phosphites and Iron. Dissolve 256 grains
each of the hypophosphites of soda, lime, and
potassa, and 126 grains hypophosphite of
iron, in 12 ounces water, by means of a
water-bath. Filter, and add sufficient water
to make up for the . evaporation. Add 18
ounces sugar by gentle heat, to make 21 fluid
ounces syrup. Each fluid ounce contains 12
grains each of the hypophosphites of soda,
lime, and potassa, and 6 grains hypophosphite
of iron. (Newark P. A.)
4647. Compound Syrup of Hypo-
phosphites. Prepared by the same formula
as the last, omitting the iron. (Newark
P. A.)
4648. Aitken's Syrup of Iron, Quinia,
and Strychnia. Dissolve 5 drachms sul-
phate of iron in 1 ounce of boiling water, and
1 ounce phosphate of soda in 2 ounces of the
same. Mix the solutions and wash the pre-
cipitates on strainers until the washings are
tasteless ; dissolve 192 grains sulphate of
quinia with sufficient sulphuric acid in 2 oun-
ces of water, precipitate the clear solution by
a very slight excess of water of ammonia, col-
lect and carefully wash it. Dissolve both
precipitates, and also 6 grains strychnia, in 14
ounces dilute phosphoric acid, then add 14
ounces white sugar, and dissolve the whole
without heat. This syrup contains about one
grain of phosphate of strychnia in each
drachm. The dose might therefore be about
a tea-spoonful 3 times a day. It is perfectly
miscible with water, has a strongly styptic
and chalybeate taste, and an after-taste of
quinia. It is employed mainly as a prepara-
tive to the use of cod-liver oil, and in certain
cases as a concomitant to this food substitute
in scrofulous diseases, in cases of delicate
children, with equal parts of the phosphatic
syrup known as chemical food.
4649. Santonate of Soda. Put into a
flask, 2 ounces santoninic acid, 4 fluid ounces
pure caustic soda lye, and 12 fluid ounces dis-
tilled water. Heat the flask in a sand-bath
or over a stove to 70° or 80° Fahr., until the
santonine solution is complete ; which usually
requires about half an hour; then remove
from the fire, and, when cold, it is convenient-
ly evaporated.
4650. Syrup of Santonate of Soda.
Roil 18 fluid ounces syrup until it marks 32°
Baura6 ; let it cool a few minutes, then add
30 grains santonate of soda dissolved in 1
ounce distilled water. You obtain 18 fluid
ounces of a transparent syrup, without a bit-
ter taste, of 35° when cold. Each fluid
ounce contains one grain of santonine. This
syrup is an excellent vermifuge.
4651. Syrup of Ipecacuanha. Mix 2
fluid ounces officinal fluid extract of ipecacu-
anha with 30 fluid ounces syrup. ( U. S. Pli}.
This syrup is said to become cloudy occasion-
ally, and the following preparation claims to
be free from this objection.
Moisten 2 troy ounces ipecacuanha with 1
fluid ounce diluted alcohol, and let it stand
for 24 hours. Then transfer it to a conical
percolator, and gradually pour upon it diluted
alcohol until 1 pint of tincture has passed.
Evaporate this by means of a water-bath to
6 fluid ounces, add 10 fluid ounces warm wa-
ter, and, having rubbed it thoroughly with 45
grains carbonate of magnesia, in a mortar,
filter, and add sufficient warm water through
the filter to make the filtrate measure 1 pint ;
then add 29 troy ounces sugar, and dissolve it
with the aid of a gentle heat, and, having
strained the hot syrup, add sufficient warm
water, through the strainer, to make it mea-
sure 2 pints when cold.
The same advantages are claimed for a
syrup made in the following manner : — To 2
fluid ounces of the fluid extract made by re-
percolation, add 2 fluid ounces water and
heat the mixture to the boiling point ; then
add 12 fluid ounces water, filter, and pour
sufficient water through the filter to make the
liquid measure 1 pint ; in this dissolve 28 troy
ounces sugar with the aid of heat, and strain
through muslin. Both preparations will be
perfectly clear, beautiful, and identical in
strength and appearance, the latter possessing
the natural odor and taste of ipecacuanha in
an eminent degree.
4652. Compound Syrup of Squills.
Take 4 troy ounces squill in N"o. 30 powder,
and the same of seneka in N~o. 50 powder,
mix them together, moisten with \ pint di-
luted alcohol, and allow it to stand for an
hour. Then transfer it to a conical percola-
tor and pour diluted alcohol upon it until 3
pints of tincture have passed. Boil this for
a few minutes, evaporate it by means of a wa-
ter-bath to 1 pint, add 6 fluid ounces of boil-
ing water, rub the liquid with 1 troy ounce
carbonate of mangnesia in a mortar till thor-
oughly mixed, filter, and. add through the fil-
ter sufficient warm water to make the filtrate
measure 22 fluid ounces. Dissolve 42 troy
ounces sugar in the filtered liquid, and,
having heated the solution to the boiling
point, strain it while hot. Then dissolve 48
grains tartrate of antimony and potassa in the
solution while still hot, aud add sufficient
boiling water, through the strainer, to make
it measure 3 pints when cold. Lastly, mix
the whole thoroughly together. The above
process is similar to that laid down in the U.
S. Ph., except in the addition of magnesia
before filtration, this being considered an im-
provement, as the gummy nature of the squills
renders filtration unsatisfactory without it.
This syrup may also be prepared from the
fluid extracts of squill and of seneka, by mix-
ing 4 fluid ounces of each, evaporating the
mixture by means of a sand-bath to a syrupy
consistence ; triturating this with the carbonate
of magnesia, and proceeding precisely as in
the above formula.
4,28
MEDICATED SYKUPS.
4653. Syrup of Ether. The combina-
tion of sulphuric ether with simple syrup, as
usually prepared, is very unsatisfactory,
whether for use alone, or mixed with other
ingredients; a portion of the ether always
separates and floats on the surface of the mix-
ture, bringing with it also somo impurities of
the syrup. In pouring out a portion from
the bottle containing it, the floating layer of
ether and scum will come first, unless these
be again mixed in by agitating the bottle.
The following improvement is taken from
the Paris Codex : Provide a bottle which has
a small neck inserted in the side close to the
bottom (see illustration); this, as well as the
upper neck, should
have a closely-fitting
cork. The bottle must
be of a size to contain
1 pint simple syrup
and 1 ounce sulphuric
ether. Insert these in
it and shake well 3 or
4 times a day for 6
days; after which, if
allowed to repose, a
thin film of ether will
rise and float on the
surface of the syrup,
separated from it by a
layer of scum. The
syrup, which is now saturated with ether, can
be drawn through the lower neck, as required;
it will be perfectly free from impurity, and
no further separation of ether will take
place.
4654. Compound Syrup of Black
Cohosh. Macerate 2 ounces black cohosh
(black snake-root), 1 ounce seneka root, i
ounce liquorice root, and •£ ounce ipecacuanha
root in dilute alcohol for 24 hours ; then
transfer to a percolator and run through two
pints; evaporate the excess of alcohol by a
water-bath, and convert into a syrup with
sufficient quantity of sugar; lastly, treat 2
ounces wild cherry bark with half a pint
of cold water, which add to the syrup pre-
viously cooled.
4655. Compound Syrup of Sarsa-
parilla. Reduce the following to moderately
coarse powder, adopting the troy ounce
throughout : 24 ounces sarsaparilla, 3 ounces
guaiacum wood, 2 ounces each pale rose,
senna, and liquorice root. Mix with 3 pints
diluted alcohol, and allow the mixture to
stand for 24 hours. Transfer to a cylindrical
percolator, and displace 10 pints with diluted
alcohol. Evaporate by a water-bath to 4
pints ; filter, and add 96 ounces coarsely
powdered sugar by the aid of heat, and strain
while hot. Lastly take 5 minims each of the
oils of sassafras and anise ; and 3 minims oil
of gaultheria ; rub these oils with a small
portion of the solution, and mix them
thoroughly with the remainder. (U. S. Ph.)
4656. Scovill's Compound Syrup of
Sarsaparilla. Take 8 ounces each sarsa-
parilla, burdock root and yellow dock; G oun-
ces stillingia root (queen's root), 2 ounces
turkey pea, 4 ounces false bitter-sweet, 3
ounces dandelion root, 3 ounces juniper ber-
ries, 1 ounce prickly-ash berries, 2 ounces
guaiacum wood, and 9 ounces bamboo briar
root. Coarsely bruise the above ingredients,
and moisten them with alcohol. Let them
stand 2 or 3 days, then put them in a steam
displacement apparatus, and pass through the
vapor of 3 pints strong alcohol. Continue
the displacement with the steam of water till
the strength is exhausted ; set aside the 3
pints of tincture which first passed, and evap-
orate the remaining decoctions to 1 quart;
mix this with the tincture, add 3 quarts
sugar-house syrup, and, when cold, add 1J
ounces iodide of potassium.
4657. Osborne's Syrup. This is one
of the most valuable preparations that can be
made for children. Simmer 11^ drachms
each, rhubarb root, anise seed, and liquorice
root, in 45 ounces boiling water over a slow
fire till reduced to two-thirds. Then make a
syrup with 4J troy pounds white sugar, add
2 •$§• drachms each manna and compound
tincture of opium (paregoric), and 225 grains
salt of tartar. In warm weather, add a wine-
glass of French brandy.
4658. Syrup of Seneka. Evaporate 4
fluid ounces of the fluid extract (see No. 4598)
by means of a sand or water-bath to a syrupy
liquid, triturate this with £ ounce carbonate
magnesia, and gradually add 8 fluid ounces
of water, constantly stirring; filter, and
add sufficient water, through the filter, to
make the liquid measure 8 fluid ounces, then
dissolve in it 16 troy ounces sugar, with the
aid of heat, and strain through muslin while
hot. The product, for its permanence and
elegant appearance, cannot be surpassed. To
prepare this syrup directly from a fluid ex-
tract by merely mixing that with simple syrup,
would render the preparation uncommonly
thin, and introduce an excessively large pro-
portion of alcohol, which would be an un-
questionable and serious objection.
4659. Compound Chloroform Syrup.
This formula for an anodyne containing
chloroform will remain combined and mix
readily with either spirit or water. Macerate
for 2 or 3 days 16 grains resin of cannabis, 2
grains capsicum, and 8 drops oil of pepper-
mint in 4 drachms chloroform and li drachms
ether ; filter the product. To about 1 ounce
syrup add -J- drachm each of water and per-
chloric acid, and dissolve in this by a water-
bath, 16 grains muriate of morphia; when
cold add 96 minims Scheele's hydrocyanic
acid, add to this the filtrate first made, and
syrup sufficient to make the whole up to 4
ounces.
4660. Syrup of Chloride of Iron.
Place in a flask 437 £ grains sulphate of iron,
5 grains sulphate of soda and 10 minims di-
lute sulphuric acid with li fluid ounces syrup
previously heated to nearly boiling point, and
continue the heat until a ferrous sulphate so-
lution is effected. In another flask place 386
grains chloride of barium, i fluid ounce syrup,
and 1 fluid ounce water, and apply heat until
dissolved. Pour the two solutions together
and mix thoroughly by agitation for a few
minutes, and throw the whole upon a paper
filter in a glass funnel, arranged in such a
manner that it may be kept hot. "When the
ferrous chloride has filtered through, test a
small quantity with a drop of solution of fer-
rous sulphate ; if a white precipitate occur.*, a
few more grains of sulphate of iron must be
added and refiltered; then add the hydro.
MEDICATED SYEUPS.
429
chloric acid and fill into 4-ounce vials for
further use. This syrup contains the same
amount of metallic iron, minim for minim, as
the tincture of chloride of iron of the U. S.
Pharmacopoeia.
4661. Syrup of Lactate of Iron.
Dissolve 1 drachin lactate of iron in 6 fluid
ounces boiling water, and add 12 drachms
sugar. Dose, 2 to 4 tea-spoonfuls.
4662. Syrup of Bark and Chloride of
Iron. Take 1 pint of the saccharine tinc-
ture of red bark, add to this 160 minims each
syrup of chloride of iron and hydrochloric
acid. This contains 120 grains of red bark
and 10 drops of syrup chloride iron to eacli
fluid ounce. If it be desirable to mix in any
other proportion, add one measure of hydro-
chloric acid for each measure of syrup of
chloride of iron. This is a deep red, clear
tincture, rather pleasantly bitter; if any
doubt exists as to whether it has blackened,
add dilute alcohol to a small quantity, until it
becomes transparent enough to observe it
thoroughly.
4683. Lahache's Syrup of Iodide of
Potassium and Iron. Take of iodide of
potassium, 308 grains; iodide of iron (in so-
lution 1 to 3), 230 grains ; orange-flower
water, 462 grains ; simple syrup (concentra-
ted), 33i fluid ounces ; dissolve the iodide of
potassium in the orange-flower water, add the
other solution and incorporate the syrup.
Preserve it cool and free from light.
4664. Syrup of Tannate of Iron.
Citrate of iron, 2£ drachms dissolved in 1 ounce
diluted acetic acid, is added to 12 ounces sim-
ple syrup, 3 ounces raspberry syrup, and 1
drachm extract of galls rubbed up with a por-
tion of the syrup.
4665. Phillip's Syrup of Sesquichlor-
ide of Iron. Dissolve 286 grains sesquioxide
of iron in 1200 grains hydrochloric acid and 2
ounces water. Filter, and add 16 ounces
simple syrup. Dose, a tea-spoonful.
4666! Syrup of Lactucarium. Tritu-
rate 1 troy ounce lactucarium to powder, and
heat it with 8 fluid ounces water to the boiling
point; maintain the temperature for a few
moments, then strain by wringing through
muslin; add to the strained liquid gradually,
and with constant trituration, 120 grains car-
bonate of magnesia; filter through paper,
pouring sufficient water through the filter to
make the filtrate measure 8 fluid ounces, in
which dissolve 14 troy ounces sugar with
heat, and strain through muslin. This makes
an excellent syrup and of fine appearance.
4887. French Syrup of Balsam of
Copaiba. Triturate 2£ drachms calcined
magnesia with the yolk of 4 eggs; thoroughly
mix with this 5i ounces balsam copaiba, and
add 104 ounces simple syrup. This prepara-
tion keeps well.
4688. French Syrup of Santonin.
Dissolve 55£ grains santonin in a little
alcohol, add it to 16 troy ounces boiling
simple syrup. The strength of the syrup will
be about 3 grains to the ounce.
4669. Moore's Syrup of Tar. Take
of tar (strained), 1 ounce (troy); pulverized
sugar (refined), 12 ounces; carbonate of mag-
nesia, 3 ounces, rubbed to powder on a sieve;
alcohol, 2 fluid ounces. Mix the alcohol with
6 fluid ounces of water, rub the tar in a mor-
tar of sufficient capacity with 1 ounce of the
sugar, and then with the carbonate of magne-
sia, gradually added, until the whole is re-
duced to a uniform, pulverulent mixture. To
this gradually add, with constant trituration,
which should be continued for 15 or 20 min-
utes, 4 fluid ounces of the mixture of alcohol
and water; then strain with strong expres-
sion. Return the residue to the mortar, and
again triturate, first with 1 ounce of the sugar
and then with the remaining 4 fluid ounces of
the mixture of alcohol and water, gradually
added, as before ; finally strain and strongly-
express, and then reduce the dregs by tritura-
tion to a smooth and uniform condition, and
pack firmly in a glass funnel prepared for
percolation, and adjusted to the neck of a
graduated bottle containing the remainder of
the sugar, and pour upon this the expressed
liquid ; and when it has all disappeared from
the surface, continue the percolation with
water until the whole measures 1 pint. Agi-
tate occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved,
and strain if necessary. Dose from a dessert
to a table-spoonful. The strained tar, such as
is usually sold in gallon cans, answers well for
this purpose, but when it is not at hand the
crude tar may be dissolved in a small quan-
tity of ether, and strained, and the ether
allowed to evaporate spontaneously.
4670. Syrup of Capsicum. Take of
cayenne pepper m fine powder, 2 drachms ;
carbonate of magnesia, 1 drachm; sugar, in
coarse powder, 14 ounces, troy. Rub the
cayenne pepper first with the "carbonate of
mangnesia and sugar, and then with 1 fluid
ounce of alcohol, and slowly pour in water
until 6 fluid ounces have been added. The
whole is then to be transferred to a proper
filter ; and when the liquor has ceased to pass,
pour on water until 9 fluid ounces of filtered
liquor are obtained. To this add the remain-
der of the sugar, and by a gentle heat form a
pint of syrup. Made in this manner syrup of
capiscum is a pungent yellowish-brown syrup,
each tea-spoonful of which contains nearly 2
grains of cayenne pepper
4671. Syrup of Valerianate of Am-
monia. Take of valeriauic acid, 2 fluid
drachms ; dilute alcohol, i fluid ounce. Sat-
urate the valerianic acid with carbonate of
ammonia, having previously mixed it with
the diluted alcohol, then add the syrup
sufficient to make i pint. Dose, a fluid
drachm containing 2 grains of the valerianate.
4672. Syrup of Stillingia (Queen's
Root). Take of queen's root, 3 pounds;
prickly-ash berries, 1£ pounds ; refined sugar,
18 pounds. Grind and mix the articles
together; place the whole 4i pounds in a
convenient vessel, cover them with alco-
hol of 76 per cent., and macerate for three
days. Then transfer the whole to a displace-
ment apparatus, and gradually add alcohol
until 5 pints of the alcoholic tincture have
been obtained, which retain and set aside.
Then continue the percolation with water
until the liquor passes almost tasteless, add
the sugar to it, and evaporate by gentle heat
until 13 pints are obtained, to which add the
reserved 5 pints of alcoholic tincture, and
make 18 pints of syrup. It may be flavored
with a sufficient quantity of the essence of
sassafras if required. (Am. Dis).
4,30
MEDICATED SYEUPS.
4673. Compound Syrup of Stillingia the syrup, while hot, through a damp cotton-
Queen's Root). Take queen's root and flannel bag. This forms a beautiful, clear
root of turkey corn, of each 2 pounds ; blue : syrup, free from, turbidness, possessing a de-
flag-root, elder flowers, and pipsissewa leaves, ! coded taste of the balsam, with most of its
of each 1 pound ; coriander seed and prickly- medicinal virtues.
ash berries of each -J- pound. Grind and mix
the articles together; place the whole 8
4678. Syrup of Chamomile. Take of
fluid extract of cnamomile, 4 ounces ; syrup,
pounds in a convenient vessel, cover them ! 12 ounces. Mix with the syrup moderately
with alcohol of 76 per cent., and macerate for j warm, and strain through flannel. The pre-
three days. Then convey the whole to a i paration is as clear as that made from the
displacement apparatus, and gradually add j flowers, with the convenience of being made
alcohol until 4 pints of the alcoholic tincture j at will. The dose is one-fourth that of the
have been obtained, which retain and set i fluid extract, or from 2 to 4 drachms,
aside. Then continue the percolation with i 4679. Syrup of Hydrate of Chloral,
water, and of this second solution reserve so j Mix together 2 scruples hydrate of chloral, 1
much as contains a sensible amount of spirit, ! drachm water, and 7 drachms simple syrup.
and distill or evaporate the alcohol from it.
Continue the displacement by water until the
solution obtained is almost tasteless, and boil
down this weaker infusion until, when added
to the second solution after the evaporation
of its alcohol, it will make 24 pints. To
these two solutions combined, add 24 pounds
of refined sugar and dissolve it by heat, care-
fully removing any scum which arises as it
comes to the point of boiling; and if it ex-
ceeds 28 pints, evaporate to that point with
constant stirring. Then remove from the
fire, and, when nearly cold, add the 4 pints of
reserved alcoholic tincture, and make 4 gal-
lons of syrup, each pint of which will be
equal to 4 oxtnces of the ingredients in medi-
cinal virtue. (Am. Dis.)
4674. German Syrup of Rhubarb.
4680. Syrup of Citric Acid. Dis-
solve 60 grains citric acid in fine powder in
sufficient warm or hot water, and add the so-
lution to 16 fluid ounces syrup containing 30
minims spirits of lemon, shaking them all to-
gether until thoroughly mixed. Syrup made
according to this formula has a better appear-
ance, and retains its brilliance and flavor
longer than that prepared according to the
U. S. Pharmacopoeia.
4681. Compound Syrup of Hemlock.
Bruise well 2 ounces each of water hemlock
(Phellandrium aquaticum) seeds, queen's-root
(stillingia silvatica), and red Peruvian bark.
Simmer them with 2 pints boiling water for
20 minutes; and, when cold, strain. Then
evaporate to 1 pint, add 2 pounds white
sugar, dissolve with a gentle heat, removing
Take of alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb, 3 i any scum that may arise, and strain the mix-
fluid ounces (sec No. 4591) ; oil of cinnamon, ture while hot. Dose : 1 to 3 drachms 3 or 4
3 minims; sugar, 36 troy ounces. Mix the
oil of cinnamon with the fluid extract, then
add sufficient water to make the whole mix-
ture weigh 20 troy ounces; in this dissolve
times daily.
4682. Cadet's Compound Syrup of
Ipecacuanha. Mix 2 ounces each syrup of
ipecacuanha and syrup of poppies, 1 ounce
the sugar with the aid of heat, and strain, i syrup of orange flowers, and li oxymel of
The above formula for syrup of rhubarb, of ! squill. 2 tea-spoonfuls constitute a dose in
the Prussian pharmacopoeia, is in officinal pro-
portions, and yields a strictly officinal result.
4675. Alkaline Syrup Rhubarb.
Take of alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb, 6
fluid ounces (see No. 4591); oil of cinnamon,
3 minims; sugar, 36 troy ounces. Mix the
oil of cinnamon with the fluid extract ; then
add sufficient water to make the whole mix-
ture weigh 20 troy ounces; in this dissolve
the sugar, with the aid of heat, and strain.
4676. Syrup of Guaiac. Decidedly
the most agreeable manner of administering
guaiac in liquid form, so far as tried, is that
of a syrup prepared as follows : Take of
guaiac, 1 ounce ; solution of potassa, ^ fluid
ounce ; sugar, 14 ounces, troy. Macerate the
guaiac in the solution of potassa mixed with
2 fluid ounces of water for 2 or 3 days ; then
Eercolate with water till 8 fluid ounces of
quid are obtained, in which dissolve the
Procter's Syrup of Tolu. Bal-
sugar.
4677.
sam of tolu and carbonate" of magnesia, of
each, ^ ounce ; alcohol, 1 fluid ounce ; refined
sugar, 2i pounds. Triturate the balsam of
tolu and carbonate of magnesia together with
1 ounce of the sugar, gradually adding the
alcohol, and then water enough to make the
whole measure 12 fluid ounces. Filter, add
water enough to make 1 pint of filtrate, to
which add the rest of the sugar, and dissolve
by a very gentle heat. If required, strain
whooping-cough.
4683. Compound Syrup of Yellow-
dock. Grind and mix together 2 pounds yel-
low-dock root (rum ex), 1 pound bark of false
bitter-sweet root, £ pound American ivy bark,
and -J- pound figwort. Cover them with 76 per
cent, alcohol, and let them stand for 2 days.
Then displace through a percolator with hot
water 2 pints extract, which reserve. Con-
tinue the percolation with hot water, and re-
serve so much of this second solution as con-
tains a sensible amount of spirit, distill the
alcohol from it, and set it also aside. Continue
the displacement with hot water until near
exhaustion, and boil down this until, when
mixed with the second solution, the two com-
bined will make 12 pints. To the mixture of
these two add 16 pounds refined sugar ; dis-
solve by heat, carefully removing the scum,
evaporate to 14 pints. "WTien nearly cold add
the 2 pints first reserved alcoholic tincture,
making in all 2 gallons syrup. Each pint
will contain the virtue of 4 ounces of the ingre-
dients. (Am. Dis.)
4684. Corvisart's Syrup of Pepsine.
Heat 15 parts by weight of syrup of cherries
to 70° or 75° Fahr.; mix with 1 part starchy
pepsine, and, after 30 minutes, filter.
4685. Goddard's Aromatic Black-
berry Syrup. Make a syrup of the follow-
ing ingredients : 2 pints blackberry juice, 1
pound sugar, 1 pint brandy, 6 nutmegs
OXTM EL — ELIXIRS.
431
grated, | ounce bruised cinnamon, 2 drachms
cloves, and 2 drachms allspice. The astrin-
gent properties of blackberry juice adapt it,
particular/ in combination with carminatives,
to the treatment of bowel complaints.
4686. Compound Syrup of Assafoe-
tida. The disagreeable smell and taste of
assafcetida prevents to a great extent the
general use of this valuable drug. Mr.
Bambo, in the Journal of Pharmacy, proposes
the following recipe, which unites the pro-
perties of assafoetida with those of wild cherry,
and is free from above objections. Take 1
ounce assafoetida and 2 ounces carbonate of
magnesia; rub these together, gradually add-
ing 1 pint infusion of wild cherry bark, and
filter. Transfer the filtrate to a bottle, and
dissolve in it by agitation 24 ounces white
sugar. This preparation resembles the syrup
of wild cherry in appearance.
4687. Syrup of Milk. Evaporate, with
constant stirring, 6 pounds of skimmed milk
to 3 pounds; add 4£ pounds of sugar; dis-
solve with a gentle heat, and strain. It may
be flavored with the addition of 1 ounce of
cherry-laurel water. Milk may be preserved
by first heating it, and, when cold, charging
it with carbonic acid gas.
4688. Grimault's Syrup of Horse-
radish. Hager gives the following direc-
tions: 50 parts each of fresh scurvy-grass,
buckbean, and watercress, 60 parts of horse-
radish, 40 of fresh orange berries, are infused
with 3 parts of cinnamon in 50 parts white
wine, and, after a day, expressed; 250 parts
sugar are dissolved in the filtrate.
4689. Grimault's lodinized Syrup
of Horseradish. This contains 10 parts
iodine, and 5 parts iodine of potassium, in
8000 parts of the above syrup of horseradish.
Oxymel. An acidulous syrup made
of honey and vinegar. The ingredients
in an oxymel should preferably be of such
character, and in such proportions, as to pro-
duce a mixture of the proper consistence with-
out further evaporation.
4691. Simple Oxymel. Liquefy by
heat 40 ounces (avoirdupois) clarified honey,
and mix it with 5 imperial fluid ounces each
acetic acid and distilled water. (Br. Ph.)
4692. Oxymel of Squills. Mix to-
§ ether 1 imperial pint vinegar of squills and
pounds (avoirdupois) clarified honey. Evap-
orate in a water-bath until it attains, when
cold, a specific gravity of 1.32. (Br. Ph.)
4693. Clarified Honey. Melt a con-
venient quantity of honey by means of a wa-
ter-bath, and then remove the scum. ( U. S.
Ph.)
4694. Honey of Hoses. Moisten 2
troy ounces red rose, in moderately fine pow-
der, with % fluid ounce diluted alcohol ; pack
it firmly in a conical glass percolator, and
displace 6 fluid drachms with diluted alcohol.
Reserve this, and percolate ij pint more; evap-
orate this last by a water-bath to 10 fluid
drachms, add the reserved liquid, and mix with
25 troy ounces clarified honey. (U. S. Ph.)
Added to water, it makes au elegant astrin-
gent wash and gargle for foul aud tender gums,
sore mouth, sore throat, relaxed uvula, &c.
4695. Honey of Borax. Mix together
60 grains borate of soda in fine powder and 1
troy ounce clarified honey. (U. S. Ph.) A
common application in sore gums, mouth, and
lips, in thrush, salivation, <tc.; also for sore
nipples, excoriations, &c., a little being ap-
plied ou the tip of the finger. Diluted with
water it forms an excellent skin and mouth
wash or lotion.
4696. Honey of Violets. Take of ex
pressed juice of violets (clear), 1 fluid ounce ;
clarified honey, 2 ounces ; mix without heat
in a glasi vessel. Used chiefly as a mouth
wash, to perfume the breath, as honey of
roses.
Elixirs. A tincture with more than
one base; or a compound of various
medicinal substances held in solution by alco-
hol in some form. Under elixirs are included
medicated wines, mixtures, <fec.
4698. Elixir of Calisaya Bark: Re-
duce to a moderate powder, 8 ounces Calisaya
bark ; 4 ounces each orange peel, cinnamon,
and coriander seed ; i ounce each anise seed,
caraway seed, and cardamoms. Percolate the
above ingredients with 4 pints alcohol diluted
with 12 pints water, and add 2 pints simple
syrup.
4699. Ferro-phosphorated Elixir of
Calisaya Bark. The percolate obtained in
the last receipt, without the syrup, should be
digested with fresh hydrated oxide of iron;
this is obtained from the solution of tincture
of chloride of iron (prepared according to the
formula of the U. S. Pharmacopoeia, before
the alcohol is added), 8 ounces of which solu-
tion, precipitated by sufficient ammonia, fur-
nish the requisite quantity of hydrated oxide
of iron. After standing for 12 to 24 hours,
with frequent shaking, test a small quantity
with a few drops of tincture of iron; if it
blackens with this test, more hydrated oxide
must be added, until all the cincho-tannic
acid is removed, which would otherwise
blacken the iron salt hereafter to be added.
When the oxide of iron test ceases to blacken,
filter the mixture. After which add 2 pints
simple syrup, and 2 ounces pyrophosphate of
iron dissolved in the least possible quantity
of water. Lastly, after standing for 12 hours,
filter the whole. This produces a beautifully
clear and pale colored ferro-phosphorate of
Calisaya bark of an agreeable taste, and free
from all blackness.
4700. Ferro-phosphorated Elixir of
Calisaya Bark and Bismuth. This pre-
paration is made according to the last formula,
with the addition of 2 ounces citrate of bis-
muth, dissolved in a sufficiency of equal parts
of water and liquor of ammonia at a gentle
heat. The bismuth solution is added to the
elixir at the same time as the pyrophosphatei
of iron, and the mixture filtered.
4701. Elixir of Calisaya Bark and
Bismuth. This may be prepared in the
same manner as the ferro-phosph orated elixir
(see fro. 4669) ; substituting, in the place of
the pyrophosphate of iron, 2 ounces citrate of
bismuth, dissolved as directed in No. 4700.
4702. Elixir of Peruvian Bark and
Protoxide of Iron. Take 4 ounces Calisaya
bark, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 drachm caraway
4:32
ELIXIRS.
seed, and 6 ounces orange peel. Reduce
them to coarse powder and percolate with 1£
pints each of alcohol and water. N"ext dis-
solve 4 ounces carbonate of iron in 4 ounces
muriatic acid and 2 ounces nitric acid ; dilute
the solution with 8 ounces water, and filter ;
precipitate with sufficient liquor of ammonia,
and wash the precipitate. Digest the wet
precipitate with the percolated tincture for 24
hours, with occasional shaking. This must
then be tested with a few drops of tincture of
iron, for any cincho-tannic acid that may be
left. (See No. 4699.) When all the acid has
been removed, filter, and add 2i pints simple
syrup, and caramel to color ; lastly, for every
fluid ounce add 3 grains pure crystallized sul-
phuret of iron. /This is said to be an ex-
cellent imitation of N"ichol's preparation cf
Peruvian bark.
4703. Squibb's Liquor of Iodide of
Iron. Take of iodine, a ounces ; iron- wire,
5 drachms; sugar, 12 ounces. Make this
sugar into syrup by boiling it up with 8 fluid
ounces distilled water, and filtering through
paper into a flask marked at the point up to
which it holds 20 fluid ounces. Meanwhile
shake the iodine and iron with 3 fluid ounces
water in a small flask until a clear green
liquid results. Add to this a small portion of
the syrup, and filter the whole through a new
filter into the syrup, keeping but a small por-
tion of the solution in the filter at a time.
Drain, but do not wash the filter ; and, final-
ly, add to the liquid in the bottle enough dis-
tilled water to make u^ 20 fluid ounces.
Shake it well, and keep it in small bottles,
filled and well stoppered. •
4704. Physic's Bitter Wine of Iron.
Take of iron filings, 3 ounces ; ginger, bruis-
ed, gentian, bruised, each, 1 ounce; orange-
peel, bruised, i ounce ; strong old cider, 1
pint. Macerate in a bottle loosely corked,
for 2 weeks or longer, then express and filter
for use. A reaction occurs between the iron
filings and the acid of the cider, resulting in
the formation of malate, and perhaps some
acetate of protoxide of iron, with the evolu-
tion of hydrogen gas, which swells up the in-
gredients, and requires that the maceration
should be conducted in a bottle of twice the
capacity of the ingredients. This preparation
has a dark, almost black color, very bitter
aromatic taste, and is a good, though not
an elegant chalybeate, in the dose of a tea-
spoonful.
4705. Hubbell's "Wine of Iron. Take
citrate (of magnetic oxide) of iron, 128
grains ; precipitated extract of Calisaya bark,
256 grains. (See next receipt.) White wine
(sherry), 1 pint; curacoa (the best), C£ fluid
ounces. Dissolve the precipitated extract of
bark in the wine by aid of a sufficient quanti-
ty of citric acid, then add the citrate of iron,
filter the solution, and add to it the curacoa,
and mit. The peculiarities of this prepara-
tion are, that it consists of iron and cinchona,
and yet is free from any inky taste or appear-
ance, is perfectly transparent, of a light
brown color not very different from that of
sherry wine, and a bitter, not disagreeable
taste. The label claims for it the presence of
citrate of the magnetic oxide of iron, as the
ferruginous ingredient. The doso of this pre-
paration is a tea-spoonful.
4706. Hubbell's Precipitated Extract
of Calisaya Bark. The precipitated extract
of bark employed by Mr. Hubbell is not the
commercial extract, nor yet that of Wetherill,
nor of Ellis, but is made by himself, by a
process based on that of Mr. Herring, of Lon-
don, for the manufacture of quinine. Any
quantity of Calisaya bark is treated with a so-
lution of caustic soda (2 parts to 100 of
water), until it has removed the coloring mat-
ter, kinic and tannic acids, and extractive
matters. The residue is washed with water,
dried, and extracted with alcohol till exhaust-
ed, and the alcohol distilled off so as to obtain
an extract. The extract consists almost
wholly of quinia and cinchonia, and is free
from tannin, and, though not soluble in wine
alone, becomes so by aid of citric acid.
4707. Shinn's Bitter Wine of Iron.
Take of sulphate of cinchona, 6 drachms;
sulphate of quiuia, 2 drachms ; citrate of iron,
4 ounces ; citric acid, 1 ounce ; sherry wine,
4 pints; alcohol, 1 pint; orange syrup, 1
pint. Dissolve the sulphates and citric acid
m 1£ pints of hot water, and the citrate of
iron in i pint of the same ; mix the solutions,
and add the other ingredients.
4708. Aromatic Wine of Iron. Di-
gest 1 ounce iron filings for 2 or 3 days in 3
fluid ounces lemon juice ; add ^ ounce each
bruised gentian and cinnamon, and 16 ounces
Rhenish (or sherry) wine. After 24 hours de-
cant and filter. Gentian contains no tannin,
and will not blacken the iron in the solution.
4709. To Prevent Sediment in Pre-
parations of Peruvian Bark. The forma-
tion of a sediment in this and other simple
preparations of Peruvian bark may be avoided
by displacing or digesting its powder first
with a solution of soda which will extract the
tannin, kinovin, <fec. ; after washing off the
last traces of the alkali by means of water,
the alcoholic or vinous tincture may then be
prepared as usual, and will remain clear, be-
cause free from the principles extracted by
the alkaline solution. The alkaloids of the
bark do not dissolve in weak mineral alkalies.
4710. Cottereau's Wine of Cinchonia
is made as follows : Dissolve 24 grains sul-
phate of cinchonia in 2 pints Madeira wine,
and filter. Dose, 1 to 4 ounces.
4711. Wine of Calisaya Bark. Di-
gest 1 part powdered Peruvian bark in 12 parts
white wine for 24 hours, and filter. A similar
preparation may be made of 20 parts of red
wine and 1 part extract of Peruvian bark.
4712. Aromatic Mixture of Iron.
Take Peruvian bark in powder, 1 ounce ; co-
lumba root in coarse powder, 3 drachms;
bruised cloves, 2 drachms; filings of iron,
separated by a magnet, h ounce ; digest
for 3 days with occasional agitation in a
covered vessel, with as much peppermint
water as will give 12 ounces of a filtered pro-
duct, and then add compound tincture of car-
damoms, 3 fluid ounces, and tincture of
orange peel, 2 fluid drachms. This mixture
should bo kept in a well-stoppered bottle.
Properties, tonic, and valuable in various
states of debility ; dose from i to 2 fluid
ounces.
4713. Procter's Rennet Wine. Take
of fresh rennets (about 3), 24 troy ounces ;
chloride of sodium, 3 ounces ; alcohol, 6 fluid
ELIXIRS.
4,33
ounces; white wine, 16 fluid ounces. "Wash
the rennets in water until perfectly clean, cut
them up, and macerate them for 14 days with
frequent agitation in the wine, then add the
alcohol, and filter for use. Dose, 1 tea-spoon-
ful immediately after eating.
4714. Wine of Wild Cherry Bark.
Professor Parrish gives the following formula
in his " Elements of Pharmacy." Alcoholic
extract (from 24 ounces) of wild cherry bark,
5J ounces ; sweet almonds, 3 ounces ; water, 1
pint; and cherry wine, 2 pints. Beat the
almonds with the water to a paste, rub down
the extract with i pint of the wine, and mix
the two liquids in a bottle of the capacity of
3 pints, stop it closely, and permit it to stand
for 3 days, with occasional agitation; then
add the remainder of the wine, allow it to
stand a week, and filter. By this mode of
proceeding, opportunity is afforded for the
development of the hydrocyanic acid before
the menstruum is made so alcoholic as to re-
tard the reaction which favors its formation.
Thus made, wine of wild cherry bark is a
transparent, wine-red liquid, having an as-
tringent bitter-almond taste and odor. The
dose of this preparation as a tonic and sedative
is a tea-spoonful.
471 5. Ferrated Wine of Wild Cherry.
Exhaust 12 ounces bruised wild cherry bark
of its tonic principles with alcohol, and care-
fully evaporate the alcoholic tincture so as to
expel the alcohol ; add G ounces water and -J-
ounce hydrated sesquioxide of iron. Mace-
rate this with occasional agitation for G hours,
and filter into a bottle containing an emulsion
of 2 ounces sweet almonds in G ounces water.
"When reaction has ceased, filter again, and
add 12 ounces white sugar, and for every
ounce thus prepared, add 24 grains citrate of
iron, previously dissolved in water sufficient
to make the whole fluid extract measure 24
fluid ounces. The addition of iron to the bit-
ter principle and hydrocyanic acid of the sim-
ple extract of wild cherry should render it
much more efficient as a tonic, and greatly
add to the value of the preparation.
4716. Ferrated Elixir of Wild Cherry.
Take of fluid extract of wild cherry bark, 4
fluid ounces ; curacoa cordial, 11 fluid ouuces ;
pyrophosphate of iron, 25G grains ; boiling
water, 1 fluid ounce. Mix the fluid extract
with the curapoa cordial. Dissolve the pyro-
phosphate of iron in the boiling water, and
mix all together. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times
daily.
4717. Elixir de Garus. Digest 2 parts
by weight each of aloes and myrrh, and 1 part
Spanish saffron, in 24 parts of GO per cent,
alcohol, and 2 of diluted sulphuric acid.
Filter.
Or : Digest for some hours 3 parts by
weight each of aloes and myrrh, and 2 parts
each of nutmegs and cloves, in 576 parts rec-
tified spirit diluted with an equal weight of
water. Then add 864 parts orange-flower
syrup, 192 parts orange-flower water and 2
each of cochineal and Spanish saffron. Filter.
Dose of either of the above preparations. 1
tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times a day. (Prussian
Ph.)
4718. Elixir of Pepsine. Dissolve 1
part by weight starchy pepsine in 8 parts wa-
ter ; filter tlie solution, and add 3 parts elixir
of garus and 4 parts syrup of cherries. Dose,
1, 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls twice during the
meals.
4719. Corvisart's Elixir of Pepsine.
Saturate 1 part by weight starchy pepsino
with 15 parts elixir of garus. Macerate fof
half an hour in a covered vessel, and filter
through wetted paper. Dose, 1 table-spoonful
before or during meals.
4720. Mialhe's Elixir of Pepsine.
Macerate 1 part by weight of starchy pepsiue,
and 5 parts sugar, in 2 parts proof spirit, 9
parts white wine, and 4 parts water, until the
sugar is dissolved ; then filter. Dose, 1 table-
spoonful before or during meals. This has aa
agreeable taste.
4721. French Pepsine Wine. This is
prepared by macerating starchy pepsine in 20
times its weight of white wine.
4722. Wine of Beef and Iron. Dis-
solve 1 ounce Liebig's extract of meat in 4
ounces water and -J drachm bruised allspice;
after standing 10 hours add 16 ounces sherry
wine and 2 ounces syrup. Then dissolve 96
grains citrate of iron in 2 ounces water. Mix,
filter, and add water to make the whole 24
fluid ounces. Each ounce contains 1 ounce
fresh beef and 4 grains citrate of iron. Dose,
1 table- spoonful. This and the 6 following
formula) have been adopted by the Newark
Pharmaceutical Association.
4723. Nutritive Wine. This is pre-
pared in the same manner as the last receipt,
omitting the citrate of iron. (Neicark P. A.)
4724. Elixir of Pepsine, Bismuth, and
Strychnia. Triturate 256 grains Hawley's
pepsine with 2 ounces glycerine in 4 ounces
water; dissolve 64 grains citrate of bismuth, 2
ounces orange-flower water, and add to the
pepsine ; then add 2 ounces deodorized alcohol,
4 ounces orange-flower water, 2 ounces syrup,
and lastly 1 grain strychnia dissolved in a
few drops acetic. Each fluid ounce contains :
pepsine, 1G grains; citrate of bismuth, 4 grains ;
strychnia, ^ grain. (Newark P. A.)
4725. Ferro-Phosphorated Elixir of
Gentian. Take 1 drachm each coriander
and mace ; 1 ounce orange peel, 1 ounce gen-
tian root. Keduce to powder and percolate
with a mixture of 4 ounces deodorized alco-
hol, 4 ounces water, and 2 ounces orange-
flower water ; displace 10 ounces, dissolve in
it 256 grains pyrophosphate of iron, add 6
ounces syrup, and filter. Each fluid ounce
represents 16 grains pyrophosphate of iron
and 30 grains gentian. (Newark P. A.)
4726. Wine of Pepsine. Triturate 160
grains Hawley's pepsino in 4 ounces sherry
wino and 1 drachm dilute muriatic acid;
pour this on a filter and pass 12 ounces more
sherry wine through it. Each fluid ounce
contains 10 grains pepsine. (Newark P. A.)
4727. Aromatic Elixir. Take '4
drachms orange peel, 2 drachms coriander
seed, 2a drachms angelica seed, and 1 drachm
cochineal. Pulverize and percolate with 12
ounces deodorized alcohol and 10 ounces wa-
ter. Add 5 ounces glycerine and 6 ounces
syrup, to make 2 pints. This is a pleasant
vehicle for administering nauseous remedies.
(Newark P. A.)
4728. Elixir of Valerianate of Am-
monia. Dissolve 96 grains valerianate of
ammonia in 4 ounces water, and add it to a
4,34
ELIXIES.
mixture composed of 6 drachms syrup of! then add the other ingredients, with a sufB-
orange peel, 2 drachms tincture of prickly • cieut quantity of caramel to impart a brown-
ash, and i ounce each of fluid extract ofjish shade to the mixture, and filter through
vanilla and compound tincture of cardamoms, paper.
Each drachm contains 2 grains valerianate of 4735. McMunn's Elixir of Opium.
The following receipt is said to have been
found among the effects of the late Dr. Chil-
ton : Take 5 pounds of Turkey opium, cut iu
small pieces and dried, and put it into a large
strong glass jar with a wide mouth, and pour
on it sulphuric ether enough to a little more
than cover it; then stop the jar tight with a
glass stopper, to prevent its evaporation ; set it
away in a cool place, and stir it daily with a
ammonia.
4729.
Elixir of Taraxacum. Take of
taraxacum root, G ounces (or fluid extract of
taraxacum, 6 ounces) ; liquorice root, 1 ounce;
simple syrup, 2^ pints. The dry ingredients
must be reduced to a suitable degree of fine-
ness for percolation. Moisten the powder
with 6 ounces alcohol diluted with twice its
bulk of water, then pack in a conical perco-
lator and pour on of the alcohol and water
mixture until 6i pints are obtained, then add
the syrup and mix them.
4730. Chloroform
Elixir. Take li
ounces each chloroform, tincture of opium,
tincture of camphor, and aromatic spirit of
ammonia; 20 drops oil of cinnamon, and 2
ounces brandy. This is an excellent mixture
for colic. Dose, h fluid drachm.
4731. Mynsicht's Elixir of Vitriol.
This elixir is also known by the name of acid
aromatic tincture. Take cinnamon, 2 ounces;
lesser cardamoms, cloves, galanga root, and
ginger, of each i ounce ; sulphuric acid (spe-
cific gravity 1.845), 1 drachm; rectified spirit,
(specific gravity .897 to .900), 2 pounds. Mix
the acid and spirit, and pour them on the
other ingredients reduced to a coarse powder;
macerate for 8 days in a close vessel, with
frequent agitation, then press it out and strain.
It should be of a brownish-red color. (Prus- owin
sian Ph.) Another formula directs as follows:
Take sweet flag root, and galanga root, of
each 1 ounce ; ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and
nutmeg, of each 3 drachms ; lemon peel, 4
drachms; white sugar, 3 ounces; proof spirit,
2 pounds; dilute sulphuric acid, 3 ounces.
Macerate for 6 days, then press and filter, so
as to make 27 ounces. (Austrian Ph.)
Elixir of Valerianate of Am-
Extract of valerian, 2 scruples;
4732.
monia.
fluid extract of valerian, 2 fluid drachms ; wa-
ter, 7 fluid ounces. Dissolve the extract in
the fluid extract and water, filter, and add
valerianate of ammonia, 2 drachms ; orange-
flower water and simple syrup, of each \
fluid ounce. Dose, a tea-spoonful.
4733. Goddard's Elixir of Valerianate
of Ammonia. Yalerianic acid (from the
root), 6 fluid drachms ; carbonic acid water, 8
fluid ounces; red Cura9oa cordial, 20 fluid
ounces ; orange-flower water, 8 fluid ounces ;
mucilage of gum-arabic, 2 fluid ounces. Sat-
urate the valerianic acid with sufficient car-
bonate of ammonia diluted with the carbonic
acid water, then add it to the flavoring ingre-
dients and mucilage, and filter. Dose, a tea-
spoonful.
4734. Moore's Elixir of Valerianate
of Ammonia. Take of valerianic acid, 1
fluid ounce ; distilled water, 24 fluid ounces ;
inodorous alcohol, 12 fluid ounces; simple
syrup, 12 fluid ounces; peach water, 8 fluid
ounces ; saturated tincture of red saunders, 4
fluid drachms; saturated tincture of recent
orange peel, 1 fluid ounce ; oil of bitter al-
monds, 5 minims ; and oil of sweet orange, 20
minims. Mix the valerianic acid and the
distilled water, and a sufficient quantity of
carbonate of ammonia to saturate the acid ;
p
stick, so that all the lumps may be broken.
At the end of a week drain off" the ether, and
again pour on as much more, and repeat stir-
ring it every day for a week longer, when it
may be drained off' as before. Then stop the
jar tight, and lay it down on its side, so that
all the ether that accumulates near its mouth
may be drained off, and repeat doing so until
the opium is all dry. Then expose it to the
open air for a few days. The sulphuric ether
extracts from the opium the narcotine which
is its most deleterious principle, and also de-
prives it of its peculiar noxious odor, so that
the elixir will not smell of it thereafter. Now
to free the opium of the smell of the ether,
and to extract its valuable medicinal principles,
boil it in water, as follows : Pour into a tin
boiler 4 gallons pure soft water, and when hot
(but not boiling), put in the opium, when a
great ebullition will take place,
it boi
ing to the evaporation of the ether.
>oil 10 or 12 minutes, occasionally
which is
Then let
stirring
it, so that the lumps of opium may be all
broken and dissolved. Then set it away till
the next day, when it should be strained
through a cloth strainer, and if there be not
4 gallons of the solution, pour on the residue
of opium boiling water enough to make that
quantity when it is strained and clear. "When
in the state of watery solution, it is better to
be kept in stone crocks that will hold about
2 or 3 gallons each, and in a cool place ; after
standing 5 or G days the clear solution should
be carefully dipped off into a large tin can.
The skimmings and dregs should be strained,
and when clear put with the other. To this 4
gallons of watery solution, add 5| gallons al-
cohol and stir the mixture thoroughly ; then
cover the can tight, so as to prevent evapora-
tion. After standing a few days, the clear
elixir may be carefully dipped off into another
can, and the dregs at the bottom strained,
and, when clear, poured into the other. After
standing undisturbed for a few weeks it will
be fit to use. It will be equivalent to lauda-
num, both in its strength and the size of its
dose.
4736. Compound Elixir of Taraxa-
cum. As prepared by Mr. Candidus for Dr.
Cochran, of Mobile. Reduce the following
ingredients to a moderately fine powder : 6
ounces taraxacum root, 4 ounces wild cherry
bark, 1 ounce gentian root, 2 ounces orange
peel, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 ounce coriander seed,
2 drachms each anise, caraway and cardamom
seeds, and 1 ounce liquorice root. Dilute suffi-
cient alcohol with twice its bulk of water, ar.d
moisten the powdered ingredients with ft
ounces of it, pack in a conical percolator^ and
displace 6£ pints with the diluted alcohol.
ELIXIRS.
435
A 'in to this 2k pints simple syrup. Dose,
from | to 1 ounce. This elixir is an excellent
vehicle for quinine, the taste of which it com-
pletely destroys.
4737. Squibb's Ammonio-PyTOphos-
phate of Iron. Take of pyrophosphate of
soda, 4 parts by weight; solution of tersulphate
of iron, 8 parts; citric acid, 2f parts; water of
ammonia, 6| parts. Dissolve the pyrophos-
phate of soda ( which is prepared by first drying
and then calcining common phosphate of soda)
in 60 parts water by means of heat ; cool the
solution to 50° Fahr. and filter it into a bottle
of the capacity of 250 parts. Then add the so-
lution of tersulphate of iron (see No. 4816),
shake the mixture well, fill the bottle up with
water, again agitate it, and set it aside for 24
hours to settle. Decant the clear liquid from
the precipitate by means of a syphon, and re-
peat the washing and decantation twice. Then
pour the precipitate upon a strainer, drain it
for 24 hours and transfer to a tarred porcelain
basin. Upon the citric acid, contained in a
suitable vessel, pour the solution of ammonia,
a little at a time, with constant stirring, till
the crystals are dissolved and the acid accu-
rately saturated. Then add this solution to
the precipitate in the basin, and apply heat.
Stir the mixture constantly till perfectly dis-
solved, and evaporate the solution to 24 parts;
then filter through paper. Finally pour the
solution upon plates, dry the salt by a mod-
erate heat, and keep it in well-closed bottles.
The yield is a little more than 7£ parts. The
salt is deliquescent, in the form of pale yellow-
ish green scales.
4738. Ammonio-Ferric Alum. This
elegant styptic remedy has recently been
much prescribed, especially in leucorrhoea; it is
made as follows : Take of crystallized protosul-
phate of iron, 8 ounces; sulphuric acid, 7 fluid
drachms; nitric acid, li fluid ounces; sulphate
of ammonia, 18 drachms. Boil the sulphate
of iron in 2 pints water and add to it the sul-
phuric acid ; when dissolved, add the nitric
acid gradually, boiling for a minute or two
after each addition, until the nitric acid ceases
to produce a black color; boil violently, to
separate deutoxide of nitrogen, and reduce
the liquid to about one half, then add the sul-
phate of ammonia and a little sulphuric acid
and set it aside to crystallize. "Wash the crys-
tals thoroughly in a little cold water to which
a small portion of sulphuric acid has been
added. This salt is in elegant violet-tinted
crystals. Its peculiar merit consists in its
marked astringency without the stimulating
properties of some of this class of salts. It
is easily assimilated when taken internally.
Dose, 3 to 6 grains, and while it controls
excessive discharges, is often useful in cor-
recting their cause. Though called an alum,
this salt contains no alumina ; it is similar to
the double sulphate of potassa and iron,
which is called iron alum, but is more
soluble.
4739. Concentrated Infusion of
Roses. Rose petals or leaves, 3 pounds;
boiling water, 2 gallons ; infuse 2 hours, with
constant agitation, then press out the liquor
in a very clean tincture press, strain through
flannel or a hair sieve, add diluted sulphuric
acid, 24 fluid ounces, agitate well, and filter
through paper supported on coarse muslin;
lastly, add 6 pounds finest white sugar broken
up into small lumps, but perfectly free from
dust and dirt. When dissolved, put the in-
fusion into clean, stoppered green glass bot-
tles, and keep it from the light in a cool place.
Product very superior.
Or : Take rose leaves, acid, and cold water,
as last, mix, and infuse for 48 hours in a
clean, covered, earthenware vessel, then press
out the liquid with the hands, filter, and add
the sugar as before. Product very tine, and,
keeps well. In employing the first formula,
care should be taken that the utensils be per-
fectly clean, especially the press, and earthen-
ware glazed with lead should be avoided.
The pressing should also be conducted as
rapidly as possible, to avoid the color being
injured by the iron, though clean iron does
not readily injure infusion of roses before the
addition of the acid. Should not the infusion
filter quite clear through paper, the addition
of the whites of 2 or 3 eggs, diluted with 2 or
3 ounces of water, followed by violent agita-
tion of the liquid for a few minutes, and re-
pose for 1 or 2 hours, will usually render it
fine, when it may either be decanted or fil-
tered should it reqxvire it. It will now pass
rapidly through ordinary filtering paper, and
at once ran clear.
4740. Elixir of Vitriol. Called also
aromatic sulphuric acid. In order that elixir
of vitriol may be miscible with water without
precipitation, aromatics of an oleo-resinous
nature cannot be used. Add gradually 3
troy ounces sulphuric acid to £ pint alcohol,
and pour 1 fluid ounce boiling water on 2
drachms red rose leaves ; when both liquids
have become cool, add 1 fluid ounce fluid ex-
tract of orange-peel, and add alcohol enough
to make the whole up to 18 fluid ounces.
Mix and filter. Elixir of vitriol thus prepared
has a pleasant aromatic odor and flavor, and
the beautiful red color of the rose leaves,
heightened by the presence of the acid. It is
miscible with water without turbidity, and a
specimen, after long keeping, has deposited
but a trace of sediment.
4741. Alcoholized Sulphuric Acid.
To 3 parts rectified spirits, add, very gradually,
1 part sulphuric acid. It is usually colored
by letting it stand over a little cochineal.
Its properties are internally refrigerant, ex-
ternally caustic. As a refrigerant, it is
administered in doses of -J- fluid drachm to 1
pint water.
4742. Cantharidal Collodion. Take 8
troy ounces finely powdered cantharides,
press it firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and
pour on it 1£ pints stronger ether. When 15
fluid ounces have passed, set the liquid aside
in a close vessel, and continue percolation
with stronger alcohol until £ pint more liquid
is obtained. Set this last aside to evaporate
spontaneously until reduced to 1 fluid ounce ;
then mix it with the reserved liquid. Next
add 100 grains dry collodion cotton (see next
receipt), and agitate until dissolved. ( U. S.
Ph.)
4743. To Prepare Gun Cotton for
Collodion. To 10 troy ounces nitrate of po-
tassa, add 154 troy ounces sulphuric acid, and
stir until uniformly mixed. When cooled
below 122° Fahr., add i troy ounce cotton,
freed from impurities, stirring with a glass
4:36
MEDICATED WATERS.
rod ; cover the vessel closely, and, after stand-
ing 24 hours, transfer the cotton to a larger
vessel, and wash it, first with cold water until
the washings cease to have an acid taste, and
then wash with boiling water. Press it as
dry as possible with the hand, pack it tightly
in a conical percolator, and pour on it
stronger alcohol until the remaining water is
displaced. Lastly, press it as dry as possible
with the hand. The cotton thus prepared,
and dried at a temperature of 212°, weighs
336 grains.
4744. To Prepare Collodion. Mix 21
fluid ounces stronger ether with 6 fluid oun-
ces stronger alcohol in a suitable bottle, add
the quantity of moist prepared cotton (as pre-
pared in the preceding receipt), and shake
occasionally until dissolved.
4745. Morphia Collodion. Collodion,
30 parts; muriate of morphia, 1 part. Ap-
plied to the affected parts in obstinate neu-
ralgia.
4746. To Administer Hydrate of
Chloral. Physicians should prescribe only
the crystals, and should be very certain that
thej- are pure. The taste of hydrate of chloral
is quite unpleasant, but orange-juice com-
pletely covers it, and so does peppermint
water or essence of peppermint. If taken in
aqueous solution, let the patient be directed
to suck the juice of an orange immediately
after swallowing the dose, or mix with the
solution a little peppermint water, with syrup
of tolu. The following is a good formula:
Take chloral hydrate, 1 drachm ; peppermint
water, \ ounce; syrup tolu, 4 ounce; water,
2 ounces. Dose, from -J- ounce to 2 ounces, as
may be required. The mixture should not be
prepared in large quantities, nor be kept for
any length of time.
4747. Improved Formula for Chalk
Mixture. To obviate unpleasant and dan-
gerous souring of chalk mixture as commonly
prepared, glycerine may be substituted for the
sugar, according to the following formula:
Take of prepared chalk and glycerine, of each
| ounce ; pure gum acacia, 2 drachms ; cinna-
mon water and pure water, of each 4 ounces.
Rub well together until thoroughly mixed.
This mixture will keep during a whole sum-
mer. The glycerine exerts a positively sooth-
ing effect upon the bowels, as well as in some
degree arresting fermentation.
4748. Phosphorated Ether. Dissolve
2 grains phosphorus in ^ drachm oil of pepper-
mint ; when dissolved add sulphuric ether, \
fluid ounce ; mix well. Dose, 2 to 6 drops.
This was recommended by Augustin in epi-
lepsy, paralysis, and other like nervous affec-
tions.
4749. Compound Spirit of Ether.
This preparation is known by the name of
Hoffmann's Anodyne, and consists of £ pint
ether, 1 pint alcohol, and G fluid drachms
ethereal oil.
4750. Moore's Extract of Black Co-
hosh. Moisten black cohosh root (black
snake-root, or cimicifuga racemosa) in No. SO
powder, with 95 per cent, alcohol, and pack
closely in a displacer ; add gradually more of
the alcohol until the resinous portion is ex-
hausted ; evaporate the alcoholic portion to
dryness, powder the product and pass it
through a fine sieve. Proceed to displace
with diluted alcohol (1 part alcohol to' 2 of
water) until the root is perfectly exhausted,
evaporate the resulting product over a water-
bath until it is of nearly the required consist-
ence of a good extract, then mix the pow-
dered resinous portion, while the fluid is still
warm, and stir constantly until cold. In this
way the resin is intimately and smoothly
mixed with the extractive portion ; is much
more readily rubbed down with aqueous solu-
tions, and contains all the active ingredients
of the root ; but, however carefully prepared,
change of temperature is liable to separate the
resin more or less from the extract.
4751. Procter's Alcoholic Extract of
Arnica. Take arnica flowers, 12 ounces,
troy; alcohol, 3 pints; water, 1 pint. Mix
the alcohol and water, and pour 2 pints of the
mixture over the arnica, previously finely
bruised. Allow it to stand for 48 hours, pack
it firmly in a percolator, and pour on the re-
mainder of the mixture until 3 pints are ob-
tained. Evaporate this tincture in a water-
bath (or still) till reduced to a soft resinous
extract.
4752. Medicated Oils. These are pre-
pared by infusion or decoction. The bruised
ingredients are either simply digested in 2 to
4 times their weight of olive oil for some
days, or they are gently boiled in it until
they become dry and crisp, care being taken
that the heat towards the end of the process
is not greater than that of boiling water. As
soon as either process is complete, the oil is
allowed to drain from the ingredients, which
may be, if necessary, submitted to the action
of a press. The product is usually strained
through flannel or a hair sieve while still
warm, and, after standing a week or 10 days
to settle, the clear portion is decanted from
the dregs. Green plants are usually employed
for this purpose, but in many cases the dried
plants, reduced to powder, and digested for 6
or 8 hours in the oil at the heat of hot water,
with frequent agitation, yield a much more
valuable product. These oils are nearly all
employed as external applications only.
The oil is obtained from the following, in
the green state : Balsam apple, the seeds
first taken out; belladonna leaves; elder
flowers; fox glove leaves; garden night-
shade leaves ; fox glove leaves ; garlic ; hem-
lock leaves ; henbane leaves ; juniper berries,
crushed ; white lilies ; poison oak leaves ;
roses, the petals of the flowers ; fresh rue ; St.
John's wort flowers ; fresh tobacco leaves.
Others are used dry, and reduced to pow-
der, such as: Cantharides (Spanish flies); cap-
sicums; dried chamomile flowers; fenugreek
seeds; marsh-mallow root; mudar bark;
opium ; pellitory root ; black pepper, <fec.
Medicated Waters. These
are aqueous solutions of different sub-
stances for medicinal and other purposes.
The methods of preparing them generally
require special arrangements to dissolve the
oils, <frc.. otherwise insoluble in water. (See
No. 1070, <fe.)
4754. Camphor Water. Pulverize 120
grains camphor iu a mortar with 40 minims
SOLUTIONS.
4:37
alcohol; triturate it first with £ troy ounce
carbonate of magnesia, then with 2 pints dis-
tilled water, added gradually. Filter through
paper. (U. S. Ph.)
4755. Bitter Almond Water. Rub 16
minims oil of bitter almonds with 1 drachm
carbonate of magnesia, adding 2 pints wa-
ter gradually. Filter through paper. ( U. S.
Ph.)
4756. Cinnamon "Water. Treat k
fluid drachm oil of cinnamon in the same
manner as in the last receipt. Or, by distilling
18 troy ounces coarsely powdered cinnamon
in 16 pints water, preserving only the first 8
pints of the distillate. ( U. S. Ph.)
4757. Fennel Water. Treat h fluid
draahin oil of fennel in the same way as last
receipt. Or, by distillation from fennel in
coarse powder. ( U. S. Ph.)
4758. Peppermint Water. Same as
last, using 3 fluid drachm oil of peppermint,
or 13 troy ounces peppermint. ( U. S. Pit.)
4759. Spearmint Water. Same as
last, from oil of spearmint.
4760. Lime Water. Take of lime, 2
ounces ; distilled water, 2 quarts. Slack the
lime with a little of the water ; pour on the
remainder of the water and stir - them to-
gether; then immediately cover the vessel
and let it rest for 4 hours. Keep the solution,
with the undissolved lime, in glass-stoppered
bottles, and when wanted for use, pour off
the clear liquor. It ij an anti-acid tonic, kills
worms, and frees the bowels from slimy and
morbific matter. It promotes digestion; it is
valuable in looseness, scrofula, diabetes, and
whites. Mixed with a decoction of Peruvian
bark, it wonderfully strengthens the debilita-
ted, and those threatened with atrophy.
4761. Lobelia Water. Lobelia leaves
and capsules, or powder, 1 ounce ; boiling
water, 4 pint; brandy, J pint. Infuse a week
Good for sore and inflamed eyes, erysipelas,
ringworms, &c.
4762. Fever Drink. The juice of a
lemon ; cream of tartar, 1 tea-spoonful ; wa-
ter, 1 pint. Sweeten with loaf sugar. "When
the patient is thirsty, let him drink freely.
4763. Saline Mixture. Take fresh
lemon juice, 1 5 ounces; carbonate of potassa,
1 drachm ; white sugar, 3 drachms ; pure wa-
ter, 12 ounces; essence of peppermint, 30
drops. Mix. A tea-cupful to be taken often
in inflammatory fevers and sore throat.
4764. Tar Water. Take of tar, 2 pints;
water, 1 gallon. Mix, by stirring them with
a wooden rod for a quarter of an hour, and,
after the tar has subsided, strain the liquor,
and keep it in well-corked-phials. Tar-water
should have the color of white wine, and an
empyreumatic taste. It is frequently used
as a remedy in chronic bronchitis. It acts as
a stimulant, raising the pulse and increasing
the discharge by the skin and kidneys. It
may be drunk to the extent of a pint or two
in the course of a day.
4765. Tar Water. M. Magnes Lahens
suggests a method of preparing this water,
which is more expeditious and convenieni
than the plan commonly followed. He mixes
the tar with sand, previously washed anc
dried, throws the mixture into a percolator,
and shakes the instrument gently to secure
proper adjustment of the mixture. Water i
;hen poured on, the first part of the filtrate is
rejected, and the latter portion is kept for use.
Be uses £ ounce tar and 26 ounces of sand to
obtain 2 pints of the medicated water, which
orresponds in strength with that of the Paris
codex.
4766. Camphor Water. Take J ounce
of camphor and enclose it with a glass marble
in a muslin bag; put this into a wide-mouthed
bottle, such a one as is used for preserved
fruit. Now fill up the bottle with water that
bas boiled a few minutes and has been allowed
to become cold. The glass marble is used to
keep the camphor from floating, which it
otherwise would do. After about 3 days tho
water will become saturated with the camphor,
and may bo poured off as required. A wine-
glassful is a dose. It is very useful as an
anti-spasmodic in hysteric and nervous affec-
tions.
4767. Barley Water. Wash away with
cold water all extraneous matter from 2 oun-
ces pearl barley ; then boil for a short time in
J pint water, throw this away, and boil the
parboiled barley in 4 pints water down to 2
pints, and strain.
4768. Distilled Water. Take 10 gal-
lons of spring water; distill it, rejecting the
first quart that comes over, and preserving
the next 8 gallons of the remainder.
SollltiOIlS. In pharmacy, a solution
consists of water in which a certain
fixed quantity of a soluble substance has
been dissolved. (Sec No. 29).
4770. Solution of Acetate of Mor-
phia. Mix 4 drachms acetate of morphia
with 15 drops acetic acid, 1 pint distilled wa-
ter, and h pint proof spirit. Dose, from 5 to
20 drops."
4771. Solution of Sulphate of Mor-
phia. Dissolve 1 grain sulphate of morphia
in 1 fluid ounce distilled water. Dose, 1 tea-
spoonful, used in the same cases as opium
4772. Compound Solution of Alum.
Rub together 1 ounce each alum and sulphate
of zinc; dissolve in 3 pints boiling water. If
necessary, filter. This is detergent and
astringent, and is used as a lotion for old ulcers,
excoriations <fcc.; and, largely diluted with wa-
ter, as an eye-wash and injection.
4773. Solution of Ammonio-Nitrate
of Silver. Dissolve 44 grains pure crystal-
lized nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce distilled
water; add gradually ammonia water until
the precipitate at first thrown down is very
nearly, but not entirely, redissolved. This
solution is used as a test for arsenious acid,
in combination with which it forms a yellow
precipitate, arsenite of silver.
4774. Solution of Chloride of Bar-
ium. Dissolve 1 drachm chloride of barium
in 1 fluid ounce water, and filter tho solution.
Dose, 5 drops, gradually increased to 10 or 12
drops, 2 or 3 times a day, for scrofula, scir-
rhous affections, and worms. Is used external-
ly, largely diluted, as a lotion in scrofulous oph-
thalmia f also as a test for sulphuric acid and
the soluble sulphates, in contact with which it
makes a heavy white precipitate, insoluble
in either hydrochloric or nitric acid. It is
438
SOL UTIONS.
said to detect the presence of TtruTro- part of
sulphuric acid.
4775. Solution of Diacetate of Lead
— sometimes called Extract of Lead. Boil 27
ounces acetate of lead, and 16 ounces finely
powdered litharge, in 3 quarts water for i an
hour, constantly stirring; then add sufficient
distilled water to make up 3 quarts. If re-
quired, filter, and keep in a closed vessel.
This solution is almost the same in strength
and preparation as the solution ofsubacetate
of lead of the TJ. S. Pharmacopeia.
4776. Goulard's Water or Lotion.
Mix Is fluid drachms diacetate of lead with 2
fluid drachms proof spirits and 1 pint distilled
water. This lotion is sedative, refrigerant,
and astringent. This is the dilute solution of
diacetate (or subacetate) of lead.
4777. Donovan's Arsenic and Mer-
cury Solution. Triturate 6 grains finely
powdered pure arsenic, 16 grains pure mer-
cury, and 50 \ grains pure iodine, with \
fluid drachm alcohol, until dry ; then add
gradually 8 fluid ounces water, triturating
constantly ; heat the mixture in a flask until
it begins to boil, and, when cold and filtered,
add sufficient water to make up to 8 fluid
ounces 6 fluid drachms. Dose 10 to 30 drops,
2 or 3 times a day, soon after a meal, for scaly
skin diseases.
4778. Standard Solution of Chloride
of Calcium. Dissolve carefully 2 grains
pure carbonate of lirno in a little pure hydro-
chloric acid; evaporate the solution to dry-
ness, and dissolve the residuum in 1 pint pure
water. This forms the standard solution of
16° of hardness. 1 measure of this solution
mixed with 15 of water constitutes a solution
of 1° of hardness ; 2 measures of it with 14 of
water make a solution of 2° of hardness &c.
This solution is the standard used in testing
the hardness of water.
4779. Solution of Iodide of Potas-
sium. Dissolve 10 grains iodide of potas-
sium and 5 grains iodine in 1 pint water.
Dose, 2 to 6 grains in the usual case where
iodine is employed.
4780. Solution of Chloride of Cal-
cium. Dissolve 4 ounces fused (or 8 ounces
crystallized) chloride of calcium, in 12 ounces
wator, and filter. Dose from 10 drops to 2
drachms, far scrofulous tumors, &c.; also
used as a tcvt for sulphuric acid, in contact
with which i t throws down a white precipi-
tate insoluble in nitric acid.
4781. Solution of Sulphate of Mor-
phia. Dissolve 16 grains sulphate of mor-
phia in 4 drops dilute sulphuric acid, 1 fluid
ounce water, and 1 fl»id drachm rectified
spirit. Dose, 5 to 10 drops.
4782. Solution of Nitrate of Baryta.
Dissolve 4 grains nitrate of baryta in 80
grains water. This is used in the same man-
ner as chloride of barium (sec No. 4774) for
testing sulphuric acid, with the same results.
4783. Solution of Nitrate of Silver.
Dissolve 1 drachm crystals of nitrate of silver
in 1 fluid ounce distilled water. It must be
protected from the action of light. This is.
employed as a test for soluble chlorides, any
of which, slightly acidulated with nitric acid,
will give a white, curdy precipitate (chloride
of silver) when brought m contact with dilu-
ted nitrate of silver.
4784. Liquor of Potassa; Solution
of Potash; Soft-Soap Lye. Take 1 gallon
boiling 'distilled water; use sufficient of this to
slack 8 ounces recently burnt lime in an
earthen vessel ; in the remainder of the wa-
ter dissolve 15 ounces carbonate of potassa,
and add the slacked lime. Cork the mixture
closely in a vessel, and shake it frequently un-
til cold, then allow it to settle and decant the
clear liquid into clean, well-stoppered green-
glass bottles. Liquor of potassa is antacid,
diuretic, and resolvent. In indigestion, acid
eructations, heartburn, &c., it may be taken
with great benefit. It neutralizes the acid,
and counteracts the morbid tendency of the
stomach to acid secretion. Dose, 10 drops,
gradually increased to 40. It is powerfully
poisonous, and should be greatly diluted in
anything not acidulous. When pure, it does
not effervesce with acids, nor give a precipi-
tate with lime-water, or with a solution of
oxalate of ammonia. (See No. 101).
4785. Liquor of Soda; Solution of
Soda ; Soda Lye ; Hard-Soap Lye ; &c.
The proportions are, crystallized caibonate of
soda, 32 ounces (troy) ; recent quicklime, 9
ounces (troy); boiling water, 1 gallon; the
lime being slacked with a little of the water.
The product is stated to have specific gravity
1.081, and to contain about 5 per cent, of
pure caustic soda. The process by which
the above is made is similar to that noticed
under " Liquor of Potassa." The test of its
purity, and uses, are also the same. (Sec Nos.
4784 and 102.)
4786. Solution of Chloride of Lime.
This solution, usually called bleaching liquor,
is prepared of 1 part chloride of lime to 10
parts of distilled water (both by weight).
That is, 2 ounces to the pint, or 1 pound to
the gallon. This is the ordinary strength of
that of the shops; but in that which is sold
as Concentrated Solution of Chloride of Lime,
the proportions are usually 3 parts of the
chloride to 20 of water. That is, 1-J- pounds
per gallon. The British Pharmacopoeia di-
rects the chloride to be triturated with the
water iu a wedgwood-ware or porcelain mor-
tar, and having transferred the whole to a
stoppered bottle, to be well shaken, several
times, for the space of 3 hours ; lastly, the
solution is to bo filtered through muslin, and
preserved in a stoppered bottle. The specific
gravity of that of the Pharmacopoeia is 1.035.
n the large scale, the ingredients are usually
placed in a carboy, or a stone-ware bottle,
which they will only f or £ fill, and, after
being corked or bunged close, agitated fre-
quently for a day or two. A cork or bung
of bees'-wax or gutta-percha should be used
for the purpose, unless the vessel is a stop-
pered one. Alter repose for 2 or 3 days, the
clear portion is decanted through a funnel
choked with crushed glass into bottles. The
last should be closely corked (preferably stop-
pered), and kept in a cool and dark place.
Nothing metallic should be allowed to conic
in contact with it. (See No. 104.) A better
plan of filtering the above is as follows : The
neck of the funnel should be choked with
some fragments of broken glass, over which
a layer of smaller ones should be placed, and,
over all, a thick layer of coarsely powdered
This is all the filtration necessary, and
SOLUTIONS.
439
is much superior to that ordered in the Phar-
macopoeia, as the contact with the muslin,
and the longer exposure, weaken the solution.
The U. S. Pharmacopeia directs the solution
of chloride of liine to be prepared by mixing
12 troy ounces muriatic acid with 3 pint dis-
tilled water ; gradually adding 6 troy ounces
marble in small pieces. Towards the close of
the effervesence, apply a gentle heat, and,
Then the action has ceased, pour off the
c'iear liquid, and evaporate to dryness. Dis-
so'.ve the residue in H times its \veight of
distilled water, and filter through paper.
4787. Solution of Chloride of Potash.
This solution is also known as Javetle's Bleach-
ing Liquid ; Eau do Javelle, &c. This is best
maae by passing gaseous chlorine into a solu-
tion of 1 part of carbonate of potash in 10
parts of water, until the gas ceases to be
absorbed. It may also bo made by adding
a solut'on of carbonate of potash to a solution
of chloride of lime, with agitation, as long as
a precipitate forms ; the liquid being after-
wards decanted or filtered. These processes
are precisely similar to that for the soda solu-
tion, an squivalent portion of carbonate of
potash be.ng used. (Sec No$. 4788, tfc.)
4788. Solution of Chloride of Soda.
Also variously called Solution of Chlorinated
Soda; Sohtion of Ht/pochlorite of Soda;
Labarraque's Disinfecting Fluid; Eau dc
Labarraque. Take of crystallized carbonate
of soda, 12 ounces avoirdupois ; distilled wa-
ter, 1 Impe-ial quart; dissolve, and pass
through the solution the chlorine evolved
from a mixtv.ro of common salt, 4 ounces ;
binoxide of n_anganese, 3 ounces ; sulphuric
acid, 2k fluid ounces, previously diluted with
3 fluid ounces water, heated in a retort to-
gether, and the gas purified by passing through
a wash bottle containing 5 ounces water, be-
fore it enters the soda solution.
4789. Solution of Chloride of Soda.
To a solution of chloride of lime (formed of
chloride of lime, i pound ; water, 3 pints),
add a solution t.f carbonate of soda (formed
of carbonate of soda, crystallized, 7 ounces ;
water, 1 pint), and, after agitation for about
10 minutes, decant or filter, and preserve the
filtrate in a well-stoppered bottle, and in a
cool and dark place. This is the formula of
the Dublin Pharmacopoeia, and often more
convenient than tlie preceding one. A writer
in Boettger's Jfotizblatt recommends that in
preparing this solution from chloride of lime,
bicarbonate of soda be used in place of sal-
soda. There is no question but that the pre-
cipitate will bo much less bulky, and more of
the liquid will be recovered in a concentrated
form by decantation.
4790. Solution of Ammonio-Sul-
phate of Copper. Dissolve 1 drachm of
the arnmonio-sulphate in 1 pint water, and
filter. This is stimulant and detergent. Ap-
plied as a lotion to indolent ulcers ; and,
largely diluted, to remove specks on the
cornea. Also used as a test for arsenical
compounds, with which it throws down a
green precipitate.
4791. Solution of Indigo. Place a
stone- ware vessel containing 8 parts oil of
vitriol iu a tub of very cold water ; add 1 part
fine powdered indigo very gradually, to pre-
vent the mixture from heating. The mixture
should be stirred occasionally with a glass
rod ; and, when the solution is complete,
allow it to repose for 48 hours. Then dilute
with twice its weight of soft water, n elding
this also very gradually, to prevent heating.
This precaution is necessary to prevent partial
decomposition of the indigo, which would
result in the formation of sulphurous acid
and indigo green. This is the sulphate of
indigo or liquid Vine of trade. This solution
is preferably prepared by using 5 parts fuming
sulphuric acid instead of the 8 parts oil of
vitriol. (See No. 98.)
4792. Solution of Carbonate of Am-
monia. This is prepared by dissolving 1
part sublimed carbonate of ammonia in 3
parts water, and adding 1 part ammonia-
water. Used in chemical analyses, and as
a very delicate test for the presence of lime,
from a solution of which it forms a white pre-
cipitate soluble in nitric or hydrochloric acid.
4793. Solution of Sulphuretted Hy-
drogen. Pass sulphuretted hydrogen gas
through cold distilled water, recently boiled,
until it will absorb no more. Keep in small
bottles securely stoppered.
4794. Solution of Santonin. The in-
solubility of santonin in water impairs its
utility as a vermifuge. "Water, cold or warm,
takes up the merest trace. Chloroform, ab-
solute alcohol, the strongest acetic acid, tur-
pentine, hot olive oil, and hot glycerine, are
the only simple fluids that dissolve any ap-
preciable quantity. But it separates from the
oil and glycerine on cooling ; and water add-
ed to the other solutions produces the same
result. By the use of the following formula,
however, a useful and effective solution may
be obtained. Put 20 grains bicarbonate of
soda and 3 ounces distilled water into a flask;
keep the liquid near the boiling point and
add 12 grains santonin, finely powdered,
about 2 grains at a time, until the whole has
dissolved. Solution is effected in about half
an hour, during which time the water is re-
duced to 2 ounces, or, if not, may bo reduced
to that bulk, when 1 ounce will contain a full
dose — 6 grains of santonin. The solution is
bright and permanent,., strongly alkaline, free
from odor and taste, except that of carbon-
ate cf soda. Carefully neutralized with acetic
acid, an equally bright and permanent solu-
tion is formed. Both may be diluted to any
extent, with hot or cold water without impair-
ing the solution of santonin. The whole,
or nearly the whole, of the santonin is pre-
cipitated in its original form of colorless
rectangular plates, with bevelled edges, im-
mediately by mineral acids, and after some
hours by excess of acetic acid.
4795. Miscible Copaiba. Mix trans-
parent balsam of copaiba with half its volume
of strong liquid of potassa of double strength.
Different samples often require slightly dif-
ferent quantities of the solution of potassa; it
is therefore best to mix them gradually and
cautiously together. Should the mixture bo
opaque, a little more of one or other of tho
ingredients, as the case may be, will render
it clear. No heat should be used. This arti-
cle is miscible with water, with which it
forms a kind of milk ; and, from containing
all the volatile oil of the copaiba, is a very
valuable preparation. Its activity is con-
4:4:0
SOLUTIONS.
sidered equal to the balsam itself, and is
given in similar doses.
4796. Solution of Permanganate of
Potassa. M. Leconte prepares this solution
in the following manner : Caustic potassa, 6
drachms; chlorate of potassa, 5 drachms;
binoxide of manganese, 5 drachms. Dissolve
the caustic potassa and the chlorate in a small
quantity of water, and add the manganese ;
get rid of the water by evaporation, stir-
ring constantly, and calcine the dry mass to a
dark red for an hour in an untinned iron cup ;
allow to cool, and add a quart of plain water.
Then boil for 5 minutes in a china capsule,
and you will obtain a fluid of a slightly pur-
plish tint; decant the solution, and wash the
residue with such a quantity of water as to
make altogether 2 quarts. When filtering is
thought necessary, the liquid should be pass-
ed, not through paper, but through very
fine sand. For dressing foul wounds, or for
injection, use 1 drachm of this solution to
from 3 drachms to 5 of spring water.
4797. Reveil's Solution of Perman-
ganate of Potassa. The officinal solution
of the British pharmacopoeia consists of 80
grains of the permanganate dissolved in 1 im-
perial pint distilled water. This is about 1
part by weight to 110 parts water. M. Reveil
recommends a standard solution of 10 parts
permanganate to 90 of water, so that the so-
lution contains 10 per cent, of permanganate.
This latter strength is endorsed by the U. S.
Dispensatory, which also recommends extreme
cleanliness in its preparation and use, and of
the bottles containing it, as organic matter
more or less neutralizes its disinfecting and
cleansing powers. The same authority orders
the pencil or brush used for its application to
be made of amianthus, or asbestos, in order to
ensure its fullest effects. (See No. 1701.)
4798. Directions for Using Perman-
ganate of Potassa. Ecveil's standard so-
lution (sec No. 4797) may bo used at its full
strength for dressing cancerous sores and
ulcers, applied with a pencil made of asbestos,
or sprinkled over a dressing of the same ma-
terial. For simple wounds or for injections,
J fluid ounce of the solution may be diluted
•with 1 pint of water. 'For gangrenous wounds
and scrofulous ulcers, or as a, gargle in un-
healthy ulcers of the mouth and throat, 1
fluid ounce to a pint of water. For a gargle
in croup and diphtheria, or as a wash for the
hands after dissecting, 2 fluid ounces to the
pint. A dose administered internally may
consist of 10 to 30 drops of the standard solu-
tion. (U. S. Disp.)
4799. Aceto-Carbolic Solution. Acet-
ic acid (pyroligncous) 8°, 20 parts; pure
carbolic acid, 5 parts ; water, 75 parts. Mix
the two acids and add the water. The acetic
acid favors penetration through the epidermis.
For tinea, apply the liquid once a day over
the diseased parts by means of a brush. For
scabies, sponge all the parts. Tho clothes,
&c., of the affected individual should also be
treated with the liquid. (Lcmairc.)
4800. Solution of Carbolic Acid in
"Water. To obtain uniform solution, it is
better to slack the carbolic acid with four
times^its bulk of hot water, and then to add a
sufficiency of cold water ; or the carbolic acid
may be first mingled with alcohol, which
causes more ready solubilitj-, before the addi-
tion of cold water. "Water will not dissolve
more than one-twentieth of its bulk of carbolic
acid.
4801. Frank's Specific Solution of
Copaiba. Boil 2 parts balsam of copaiba, 3
parts liquor of potassa, and 7 parts water to-
gether for 2 or 3 minutes ; put the mixture
into a separator, and let it stand for 5 or 6
days; then draw it off' from the bottom,
avoiding the upper stratum of oil, and add to
the clear liquid 1 part sweet spirits of nitre,
perfectly free from acid ; should it turn milky,
a very little liquor of potassa will usually
brighten it; but if it does not, place it in a
clean separator, and let it stand, closely cov-
ered, for a few days, then draw it off from
the bottom as before, and it will bo perfectly
transparent.
4802. Mackenzie's Solution of Ni-
trate of Silver. This is used for sponging
the throat and fauces, for affections <f thoso
parts. Dissolve 20 grains nitrate of /silver in
1 fluid ounce distilled water.
4803. Solution of Hydrosulphuret of
Ammonia. Saturate strong water of ammo-
nia with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, then add
a second portion of water of amm.mia, equal
to that first used, and put into welt-stoppered
bottles.
4804. Fowler's Solution ; Solution of
Arsenite of Potassa. Boil 64 grains ar-
fienious acid (in small pieces), and 64 grains
bicarbonate of potassa, in 12 fluid ounces
water, until the acid is entirely dissolved.
"When cold, add h fluid ount-e compound
spirit of lavender, and sufficient distilled
water to make the whole mixture measure a
pint. (U. S. Pit.)
4805. Solution of Citrate of Mag-
nesia. Crystallized citric add, o7 drachms ;
water, 268 drachms; carbonate of magnesia,
22 drachms. Dissolve the acid in the water,
and mix the magnesia with it under constant
stirring; filter, and add to the filtrate so
much water as to bring tie weight of the
whole to 40 ounces. To prepare the lemon-
ado, take of aromatized .simple syrup, 4
ounces ; pulverized citric acid, 48 grains ; bi-
carbonate of soda, 64 grains. Fill into bot-
tles of suitable size, add water and so much
of the magnesia solution as is required, and
cork and tie immediately. Keep in a cool
place. This solution contains 80 grains of
citrate of magnesia to the ounce of fluid.
4806. Parisel's Solution of Citrate of
Magnesia. M. Parisel recommends the fol-
lowing method of preparing this article,
which ho has followed during two years, as
being both simple and effectual : Take of
powdered and well dried citric acid, 20 parts
by weight; carbonate of magnesia, 12 parts;
mix accurately, and enclose the powder in a
slightly warmed and well-dried bottle, which
invist be kept well stopped. The mixture
thus made is rapidly dissolved in three times
its weight of water at the ordinary tempera-
ture; and, if the water bo pure, the solution
in a few minutes becomes perfectly transpar-
ent, without any precipitate. The isalt pro-
serves its solubility for a long time.
4807. Solution of Tartrate of Soda-
Take of carbonate of soda, If pounds; tartarin
acid, 1J pounds; crushed sugar, 2 pound*;
LOTIONS.
hot water, 2 gallons. Dissolve the soda in Ik
gallons of the water; the sugar in 1 quart;
and the acid in 1 quart. "When all have dis-
solved and cooled down, add the acid slowly
to the soda solution, and mix with the sugar.
Filter into strong 12-ounce bottles, to each of
which must be added a few drops of strong
essence of lemon, arid 35 grains of bicarbonate
of soda. Cork immediately and tie or wire
the bottles; will keep for any length of time.
This is considered a good substitute for solu-
ton of citrate of magnesia.
4808. Solution of Citrate of Potassa.
Take of citric acid, i ounce, troy ; bicarbonate
of potassa, 330 grains; water, £ pint. Dis-
solve the acid and bicarbonate in the water,
and strain the solution through muslin. ( U. S.
Ph.)
4809. Effervescing Citrate of Mag-
nesia. Take of citric acid, dried and pow-
dered, 7 parts ; heavy carbonate of magnesia,
5 parts ; mix, and preserve in well-corked
bottles.
4810. Effervescing Citrate of Mag-
nesia. Take of powdered citric acid, *Z\
ounces ; powdered sugar, 8 ounces ; mix and
triturate to a fine powder, and drive off the
water of crystallization by the heat of a
water-bath. Add citrate of magnesia (pre-
pared by fusion), 4 ounces; oil of lemon, 10
drops ; and mix immediately ; then add bi-
carbonate of soda, 3 ounces ; and again tritu-
rate until the whole forms a fine powder,
which must be preserved in well-stoppered
bottles. From 1 to 3 table-spoonfuls, mixed
in a tumbler of water, furnishes an efferves-
cing draught, in which the uudissolved por-
tion is so nicely suspended that it can be
taken without inconvenience.
4811. Effervescing Citrate of Mag-
nesia. Take of crystallized citric acid, 20
grains; carbonate of magnesia, 14 grains;
mix in a tumbler of cold water and drink the
mixture whilst effervescing.
48 1 2. Solution of Citrate of Bismuth.
Put 2 ounces pure sub-nitrate of bismuth into
a porcelain dish, add 1450 grains nitric acid of
specific gravity 1.44 ; heat over a spirit lamp
until the bismuth is dissolved ; then add one
fluid ounce water, and let stand until cold;
then gradually add water, constantly stirring
with a glass rod, until a further addition pro-
duces milkiness, or until the whole measures
1£ pints. Filter and set aside.
Next, dissolve 3 ounces citric acid in lj
pints water, and exactly neutralize the acid
with carbonate of soda dissolved iu water. It
is important that there shall be no excess of
soda, as the resulting citrate of bismuth would
be contaminated with the oxide after decom-
position. Put the bismuth solution in a suit-
able vessel, and add, stirring constantly with
a glass rod, sufficient of the solution citrate
soda exactly to decompose ; the precise quan-
tity is known to have been added, when,
after placing the whole upon a cloth filter,
the washings, after having been suffered to
run awhile until clear, first, fail to precipitate
bismuth when dropped into water, and, sec-
ond, show no precipitate upon the addition of
a few drops of ternitrate of bismuth, a small
quantity of which should be reserved for this
purpose. When the liquid portion has mostly
passed, pour water upon the filter until thor-
oughly washed from nitrate of soda, or until
the water passes tasteless; then, after drain-
ing, transfer to bibulous paper, and dry by
gentle heat.
~ 4813. Bartlett's Preparation of Citrate
of Bismuth. Dissolve 1 troy ounce sub-
carbonate of bismuth in 720 grains nitric
acid ; after effervescence has ceased, gradual-
ly introduce 1 £ fluid ounces distilled water ;
add to this slowly, and with constant stirring,
a solution of GOO grains citrate of potassa in 2
pints distilled water. Nitrate of potassa and
citrate of bismuth are formed; the latter, being
insoluble, is precipitated, and, being thorough-
ly washed with distilled watei', may be dried
on bibulous paper with a gentle heat.
4814. Solution of Citrate of Bismuth
and Ammonia. Rub some citrate of bis-
muth with sufficient distilled water to reduce
it to a uniform pasty consistence, and add
cautiously, with constant trituration, strong
water of ammonia until a solution is obtained,
observing to avoid an excess of ammonia.
Filter the liquid through paper, returning
the first portions that pass, should they be
turbid.
4815. Solution of Citrate of Iron.
Dilute 1 pint of solution of tersulphate of
iron with 2 pints distilled water ; precipitate
with water of ammonia in slight excess, con-
stantly stirring. Transfer the precipitate to
a muslin strainer, and wash it with water
until the washings are nearly tasteless. Drain
it, and put half of it in a porcelain capsule on
a water-bath heated to 150° Fahr., add 5|
troy ounces citric acid in coarse powder, and
stir until the precipitate is nearly dissolved ;
then add sufficient of the reserved precipitate
to fully saturate the acid. Lastly, filter the
liquid, evaporate it at a temperature not over
150° Fahr., until it measures a pint. ( U. S.
Dis.}
4816. Styptic Solution of Perchloride
of Iron. Mix together 12 fluid ounces mu-
riatic acid and 5 fluid ounces water ; pour the
mixture, a small portion at a time, on 2 oxm-
ces avoirdupois of iron wire ; aiding the com-
plete solution of the wire by a gentle heat.
Add 6 fluid drachms nitric 'acid, previously
mixed with 2 ounces water; and evaporate
the whole to 5 fluid ounces. Lastly, add wa-
ter sufficient to make the whole up to 10 fluid
ounces. ( U. S. Dis.)
LotiOIlS. Solutions of medicinal
tmbstances in water/ employed for ex-
ternal application. They may be made of
any soluble medicaments that are capable of
exerting their action by contact with the skin.
Lotions have been divided into classes, as
sedative, anodyne, stimulant, &c. Sedative
and refrigerant lotions are commonly em-
ployed to allay inflammation ; anodyne and
narcotic lotions to relieve pain ; stimulant lo-
tions to assist the ripening of tumors, <fcc.;
detergent lotions to clean foul ulcers, &c.;
repellant and resolvent lotions to disperse
tumors, remove eruptions, &c. Lotions are
usually applied by wetting a piece of linen
with them, and keeping it on the part affected,
;r by moistening the part with the fingers
442
LOTIONS.
previously dipped into them. Lotions are
more agreeable if made with rose water. A
number of these preparations are here given,
and others will be found by referring to the
index, under their respective headings.
4818. Lotion of Nitric Acid. Mix to-
gether 2 drachms dilute nitric acid and 1 pint
water. This lotion is stimulating and cleans-
ing. It is very useful when applied to foul
and foetid ulcers; it is likewise of considerable
value inulceration of the bone and threatened
inflammation. It was the favorite lotion of
Sir Astley Cooper in cases of unhealthy ul-
cerations requiring the application of a stimu-
lant.
4819. Anodyne Lotion. Crude opium,
2 drachms; warm water, 1 pint. Eub the
opium for a few minutes in a mortar with a
little of the warm water, then pour in the re-
mainder of the water and mix them well.
This is an excellent wash for painful and irri-
table ulcers and swellings.
4820. Astringent Lotion. Sulphate
of zinc, 2 drachms ; water, 1 pint ; camphor-
ated spirit of wine, 2 drachms; mixed to-
gether. This is an excellent lotion for piles,
used night and morning.
4821. Compound Alum Lotion. A de-
tergent and astringent lotion for old ulcers,
chilblains, excoriations, <tc., and, largely dilu-
ted, as an eye-wash and injection. Dissolve 1
ounce each of alum and sulphate of zinc
in 3 pints boiling water ; filter, if necessary.
4822. Camphorated Lotion. Diluted
solution of diacetate of lead, 8 fluid ounces ;
spirit of camphor, 2 drachms ; mix, and shake
well. Kefrigerant and anodyne. Employed in
erysipelatous inflammations, bums, contu-
sions, sprains, excoriations, <fec.
4823. Spackman's Lotion for In-
flamed Parts. Mix 1 drachm tincture of
myrrh; 3 drachms tincture of camphor; 1
ounce rectified spirits of wine; 1 drachm
Goulard's extract; 1 ounce solution of sul-
phate of morphia; 2 ounces tincture of arnica,
and 4 ounces water.
4824. Lotion of Acetate of Lead.
Dissolve sugar of lead, J ounce avoirdupois,
in distilled or soft water, 1 Imperial pint.
Sometimes 'a little vinegar is added, a like
quantity of water being omitted. Used in
excoriations, burns, sprains, contusions, &c. ;
also as an occasional cosmetic wash by per-
sons troubled with eruptions.
4825. Preventive Lotions. These are
washes intended to» prevent infection from
personal contact with those laboring under
contagious diseases. Most of the nostrums
of this character 'are mere weak solutions of
chloride of lime, corrosive sublimate, potassa,
or acetate or diacetato of lead. (See No.
4830.)
4826. Lotion of Muriate of Ammonia.
Dissolve sal-ammoniac in coarse powder, 1
to 4 drachms (avoirdupois), in water, 1 Im-
perial pint. A useful wash in itch, old ulcers,
tender feet, sweaty feet and hands, swelled
joints, &c.
4827. Strong Lotion of Hydrochlorate
of Ammonia. Dissolve sal-ammoniac, 1 to
2 avoirdupois ounces, in water, 1 Imperial
pint. In bruises and contusions, extravasa-
tions, glandular swellings and indurations,
chilblains, &c., when the skin is not broken.
Tinegar is often substituted for the whole or
a part of the water, and sometimes i or £
part of rectified spirit, or some brandy or rum
is added.
4828. Lotion of Muriatic Acid. Mix
hydrochloric acid (specific gravity 1.16), 1
fluid ounce, with water, 19 fluid ounces. For
unbroken chilblains. Diluted with an equal
bulk of water, it forms a useful lotion in lepra
and other scaly skin diseases.
4829. Lotion of Nitrate of Silver.
Dissolve crystallized nitrate of silver, 1 to 2
drachms avoirdupois; concentrated nitric acid,
20 drops; in distilled water, 1 ounce. Used
as a liquid caustic to destroy corns and warts.
4830. Lotion of Chloride of Lime.
Take of chloride of lime (best, fresh), £ ounce
avoirdupois ; pure water, 1 Imperial pint ;
mix in a bottle, and agitate, occasionally, for
2 or 3 hours ; after repose, filter the clear por-
tion through a piece of calico that has been
previously moistened with water, and preserve
the filtrate in a stoppered bottle.
4831. Lotion of Chloride of Soda.
As the last, but substituting chloride of soda
for chloride of lime. Or : Take of chloride of
lime, \ ounce avoirdupois ; water, £ Imperial
pint; mix, &c., as before; then add of crys-
tallized carbonate of soda, 3i drachms; pre-
viously dissolved in water, J pint; agitate the
whole for 12 or 15 minutes, and filter, &c., as
before.
4832. Lotion of Chloride of Potassa.
As the last, but substituting 3 drachms dry
carbonate of potassa for the carbonate of
soda.
4833. Lotion of Prussic Acid. Mix
medicinal prussic acid, 5 fluid drachm, with
rectified spirit, 1 fluid ounce, and distilled
water, 2 fluid ounces ; cover the bottle with
thick purple paper, and keep it in the shade.
Recommended by Dr. Elliotson as a lotion to
moisten the face both before and after shaving,
as being very soothing to an irritable skin. It
is poisonous.
4834. Sulphuretted Lotion. Dissolve
sulphuret of potassium, 1 drachm avoirdupois,
in distilled water, 1 pint Imperial. Used to
render the skin soft, white, and smooth, par-
ticularly when there is a tendency to slight
eruptions of a pustular or vesicular character.
The addition of ^ to 1 ounce of glycerine im-
proves it for present use.
4835. Carbolic Acid Lotion. Dissolve
5 grains carbolic acid in crystals, in 1 ounce
water. As a lotion for foul ulcers, carbun-
cles, scabies, and lepra.
4836. Carbolic Acid Lotion for Burns.
Mix 1 drachm liquid carbolic acid with 3 oun-
ces linseed oil and 3 ounces lime-water.
4837. Lotion of Arnica for Bruises,
Sprains, Burns, &c. .Take 1 ounce of
arnica flowers dried, and put them in a
wide-mouthed bottle ; pour just enough
scalding water over them to moisten them,
and afterwards about 1 or 1£ pints spirits of
wine. In case of a bum or bruise, &c., wet a
cloth in the arnica and lay it on the part af-
fected. Renew the application occasionally,
and the pain will soon be removed.
4838. Balm of Gilead Lotion. Balm-
gilead buds, bottled up in new rum, are very
healing to fresh cuts or wounds. An excel-
lent preparation to have in the house.
LINIMENTS.
4:4:3
4839. Glycerine Lotion for Irritation
of the Skin. Mix 1 ounce of glycerine with
1 pint water. It allays itching and removes
dryness, &c., in various skin diseases. With
the addition of 2 or 3 drachms of borax, it
removes chaps from the lips, hands, and nip-
ples.
4840. Startin's Glycerine Lotion to
Allay Irritation. Take 5 drachm trisnitrate
of bismuth ; 1 fluid drachm tincture of fox-
flove ; 1 fluid drachm dilute nitric acid ; 4
rachrns glycerine ; and & fluid ounces rose-
water. To allay the irritation in itch and
some other skin diseases.
4841. Glycerine Lotion for Burns,
Scalds, &c. Take 1 ounce glycerine, 2
ounces thick mucilage (gum-arabic dissolved
in water), and 7 ounces lime water. For
burns, scalds, chaps, excoriations, &c.
4842. Startin's Glycerine Lotion for
Bruises, &c. Triturate together 1 ounce
glycerine, 1 drachm extract of belladonna,
and 3 ounces soap liniment. (See No. 4869.)
For bruises, sprains, and swelled joints; also
gouty, neuralgic, and rheumatic pains.
4843. Evaporating Lotions. These
lotions are soothing and refrigerant if allowed
to evaporate by free exposure ; and stimulant,
if the evaporation is prevented by covering
the part with the hand, or a piece of oiled
silk. They are useful applications in nervous
headaches, restlessness, irritability of the skin,
<fec. Mix 1£ fluid ounces each of sulphuric
ether, rectified spirit, and solution of acetate
of ammonia, with 3£ fluid ounces rose-water.
A simple evaporating lotion may be made
with 1 part rectified spirit, and 4 to 6 parts
water.
4844. Camphorated Evaporating
Lotion. Dissolve k drachm camphor in 4
ounces rectified spirit and & ounce elder
flowers ; digest 24 hours and strain. This
is a good calming lotion.
4845. Tar Lotion. Quicklime, 6 ounces ;
water, 48 ounces ; slack, add tar 4 ounces, and
boil to one half. This liquid consists of a
solution of pyrolignite of lime and pyroge-
nous oil and resin. It may be advantageously
employed in various chronic skin diseases,
especially those affecting the heads of chil-
dren.
4846. Lotion of Galls. Bruised galls.
2 drachms; boiling water, 1 pint; infuse an
hour, and strain. Astringent. An excellent
application to sore nipples, or to strengthen
them before suckling; spirit of wine, 3 oun-
ces, may be advantageously added, and a like
portion of water omitted.
4847. Mercurial Lotion; or Black
Wash. Calomel, 1 drachm; lime water, 1
pint ; mix, and shako well. These are the
usual proportions. The bottle should be well
shaken before the lotion is applied. Black
wash is a favorite application to all kinds oi
syphilitic sores.
4848. Yellow Lotion or Wash, Some-
times called Bed Wash. Corrosive subli-
mate (in powder), £ drachm ; lime water,
pint ; mix, and shake well. It should be well
shaken before use. A common application to
syphilitic and scrofulous sores.
4849. Lotion of Belladonna. Extract
of deadly night-shade, 1 drachm ; diluted solu-
tion of diacetate of lead, 1 pint; dissolve.
Applied to tumors and glandular enlarge-
ments.
4850. Cazenaye's Antipsoric Lotion.
Sulphuret of potassium, 1 drachm ; soft soap
re), 2 drachms ; water, 8 ounces ; dissolve.
An excellent remedy for the itch. It leaves
but little smell behind, and does not soil the
[inen.
4851. Iodine Lotion. Tincture of io-
dine, i fluid ounce; iodide of iron, 12 grain;;;
chloride of antimony, i ounce. Mix for a
wash. It is a remedy for corns. Apply
with a small brush. Or: Iodine, li grains;
spirits of wine, 3 tea-spoonfuls. Dissolve, and
add 1 pint of water. A most excellent wash
for scrofulous sores.
4852. Disinfecting Lotion. Liquor
of common salt, 1 fluid ounce ; water, | pint ;
Or: Chloride of lime, 3 drachms; water, 1 pint;
dissolve. Both are good washes for i'oul
ulcers, the itch, the teeth, to sweeten the
breath and ' remove the smell of tobacco
smoke, and for various similar purposes.
4853. Valuable Lotion for Wounds,
&c. Camphor, 5 drachms, cut into small
pieces, and dissolved in half a pint of spirits of
wine in a closely corked bottle ; when fully
dissolved, add i pint of ox-gall and 60 drops
of laudanum. Shake it well, and bottle for
use. This has been a patent medicine, and
is very efficacious in the cure of fresh wounds,
cuts, bruises, swellings, sores, and inflamed
and pained parts.
4854. Lotion for Mange. Corrosive
sublimate, J ounce ; spirits ot salt (muriatic
acid), i ounce ; water, 1 quart. Or : Cor-
rosive sublimate, 1 drachm; sal-ammoniac, $
ounce; water, 1 pint Or: To the last add
strong decoction of white hellebore, \ pint.
Used for mange in horses, cattle, and dogs,
when sulphur ointment fails.
4855. Lotion for Galls. Vinegar and
spirit of wine, of each 4 ounces; sugar of lead,
\ ounce ; water, i pint; mix. Or: Soap lini-
ment and solution of acetate of ammonia,
equal parts. Or : Sal-ammoniac, 1 ounce ;
muriatic acid, 3 drachma ; water, 1 pint. Used
by farriers for saddle-galls or warbles.
4856. Lotion of Chlorate of Potassa.
— sometimes called Cosmetic Solution of Po-
tassa— for bad breath. Dissolve powdered
chlorate of potassa, & ounce, in distilled wa-
ter, 12 ounces, and rose-water, 2& ounces.
Used as a wash in foul mouth, gums, <fcc.,
particularly where there is a scorbutic or sy-
philitic taint; also extensively by smokers,
to deodorize the breath. Its daily use is said
to give a rich healthy hue to the gums and
lips.
BllimeiltS. A semi-fluid oint-
ment or soapy application for painful
joints, swellings, burns, &c. The term is also
occasionally extended to various spirituous
and stimulating external applications. "When
they are of a thinner consistency they arc-
called embrocations, although this distinc-
tion is not always observed. Liniments aro
generally applied by friction with the hand
or fingers, or with some substance, such as a
piece of flannel, capable of producing some
amount of irritation of the skin. Sometimes
a piece of linen rag dipped in them is simply
4:4:4:
LINIMENTS.
laid on the part. The greater number of
cerates and ointments may be converted into
liniments by reducing their substance with
almond or olive oil,, or oil of turpentine.
Besides those here given, others will be
found in the index under their proper heads.
4858. Good Samaritan, or Immediate
Relief from Pain. Take 2 quarts of 95 per-
cent, alcohol, and add to it the following
articles : Oils of sassafras, hemlock, spirits of
turpentine, balsam of fir, chloroform, and tinc-
ture of catechu and guaiacum, of each 1
ounce ; oil of origanum, 2 ounces ; oil of win-
tergreen, k ounce, and gum camphor, £ ounce.
The above is a noble liniment, and may be
successfully employed in rheumatism, braises,
neuralgia, sprains, headache, burns, and spinal
affections.
4859. Hemlock Liniment. Oil of
hemlock, -J ounce ; camphor, in gum, i
ounce ; opium, J ounce ; spirits of wine, 1
pint. Mix. It is a first-rate, rubefacient in
inflammatory rheumatism, gout, quinsy, in-
flamed breast, white swellings, <fec.
4860. Morphia Liniment. An ex-
cellent anodyne, which often allays pain
when other means have failed. Put 3 grains
pure morphia into a mortar ; add gradually,
during trituration, 1 fluid ounce warm oil of
almonds ; when the morphia is dissolved, add
1 ounce camphor liniment. (Sec No. 4880).
4861. Magic Liniment. Alcohol, 1
quart ; gum camphor, 4 ounces ; turpentine, 2
ounces; oil of origanum, 2 ounces; sweet oil,
1 ounce. For cuts or calks in horses or cattle
in winter it has no equal ; but it must be ap-
plied often. For human flesh use twice the
amount of alcohol, and no liniment will be
found superior to it.
4862. Spirits of Camphor. The gum
resin camphor readily dissolves in alcohol,
forming spirits of camphor. About 2 ounces
camphor are generally dissolved in about 1
pint spirits. It is used as an external appli-
cation for sprains, local pains, and stitches.
It is applied by rubbing with the hand upon
the painful part. To secure the full benefit
of the application, the part should be after-
wards covered with a piece of flannel of suit-
able size, more or less wetted with the
spirits, and the whole covered with oil silk
tor the purpose of restraining evaporation.
4863. Camphorated Oil. This is a
Camphor liniment. The proportions are the
same as in the preceding formula, substituting
olive oil for the alcohol, and exposing the ma-
terials to a moderate heat. As an external
stimulaut application it is even more powerful
than the spirits ; and to obtain its full influ-
ence, the part treated should be also covered
with flannel and oil silk. It forms a valuable
liniment in chronic rheumatism, and other
painful affections, and is specially valuable as
a counter-irritant in sore or inflamed throats,
and diseased bowels.
4864. Arnica Liniment. Add to 1 pint
sweet oil, 2 table-spoonfuls tincture of arnica;
or the leaves may be heated in the oil over a
slow fire. Good for wounds, stifi' joints, rheu-
matism, and all injuries.
4865. London Liniment. Take chlo-
roform, olive oil, and aqua-ammonia, of each
1 ounce ; acetate of morphia, 10 grains. Mix,
and use as other liniments. Very valuable.
4866. Valuable Embrocation. Take
•£ ounce camphor, cut it into small pieces, and
dissolve it in k pint spirits of wine in a closely
corked bottle; when completely dissolved,
add 1 pint ox-gall (which can be had of any
butcher), and about 40 or GO drops laudanum ;
shake it well and bottle it for use. Apply lint
dipped into it.
4867. Hungarian Counter-irritant
Liniment. Macerate for a week 1 drachm
powdered cantharides, 1 drachm sliced garlic,
4 drachms each camphor, bruised mustard
seed, and black pepper, in 6 fluid ounces
strong vinegar and 12 fluid ounces rectified
spirit ; then filter.
4868. Liniment for Wounds. In 1
quart alcohol dissolve 1 ounce each saltpetre
and gum camphor, and 1 table-spoonful of
salt. "When dissolved the liniment is ready
for use, and is a magical remedy.
4869. Steer's Opodeldoc, or Soap
Liniment. "White castile soap, cut small, 2
jounds; camphor, 5 ounces ; oil of rosemary,
[ ounce ; oil of origanum, 2 ounces ; rectified
spirit, 1 gallon ; dissolve in a corked bottle by
;he heat of a water-bath; and when consider-
ably cool, strain, then add liquor of ammonia,
11 ounces; immediately put it in bottles, cork
lose, and tie over with bladder. It will be
very fine, solid and transparent, when cold.
4870. Liquid Opodeldoc. Take 2 oun-
;es castile soap shavings, and dissolve it in 1
quart alcohol, with gentle heat, then add 1
ounce camphor, i ounce oil rosemary, and 2
ounces spirits hartshorn.
4871. Belladonna Liniment for Skin
Diseases. Take 4 drachms extract of bella-
donna, 1 ounce glycerine, and 6 ounces soap
liniment. (See No. 48G9.) For rheumatism,
neuralgia, painful swellings, <fec.
4872. Black Oils. Best alcohol, tinc-
ture of arnica, British oil, and oil of tar, of
each 2 ounces; and slowly add sulphuric acid,
i ounce. Extensively used as a liniment,
Sarticularly in cases where there is much in-
animation.
4873. Factitious Oil of Spike. Oil of
turpentine, 3 pints ; oil of lavender, 1 pint ;
mix. Used by enamelers to mix their colors
in. Or : Oil of turpentine, 1 gallon ; Barba-
does tar, 4 ounces; alkanct root, 2 ounces;
digest a week. Used as a liniment for horses.
4874. Liniment of Cantharides. Pow-
dered Spanish flies, 1 drachm ; oil of turpen-
tine, 1 fluid ounce ; digest 2 hours and filter.
Or: Tincture of cantharides and soap liniment
(see No. 48G9), equal parts; mix. Both the
above are irritant and stimulant, but should
be used cautiously, lest they produce stran-
gury.
4875. Hydrochloric Acid Liniment.
Take of olive oil, £ Imperial pint; pure sper-
maceti and camphor, of each 5 ounce
avoirdupois ; balsam of Peru, £ ounce ; mix
by a gentle heat, add £ fluid ounce hydro-
chloric acid, and stir until quite cold. An
excellent friction for chilblains before they
break. The balsam of Peru may be omitted
if the cost be an object.
4876. Compound Chloroform Lini-
ment. This is composed of 1 ounce each
chloroform, ether, spirit of camphor, and laud-
anum, and | ounce tincture of cayenne pepper.
For rheumatic pains.
LINIMENTS.
4:4.5
4877. Petroleum Liniment. Mix to-
gether 1 ounce petroleum. £ ounce camphor,
and ^ drachm alcohol.
4878. Opium Liniment. Mix 2 ounces
laudanum with 6 ounces soap liniment. (See
No. 4869.) It constitutes an excellent sooth-
ing application in rheumatism, sprains, and
'other painful affections.
4879. Belladonna Liniment for Lead
Colic. Take 40 grains extract of belladonna, 1
drachm rectified ether, and 2 fluid ounces
cherry-laurel water. As a friction to the
abdomen in lead colic.
4880. Compound Camphor Liniment,
or Essence for Headache. Take of cam-
phor, 2J ounces avoirdupois ; oil of lavender,
1 fluid drachm ; rectified spirit, 15 fluid oun-
ces ; dissolve, then add of liquor of ammonia
(specific gravity .882-.880), 5 fluid ounces,
and shake them until mixed. It is powerfully
stimulant, rubefacient, and counter-irritant.
A piece of folded linen wetted with it applied
to the part, and then covered with a towel,
and pressed with the hand, or covered with a
piece of oiled silk, will generally relieve su-
perficial pains.
4881. Liniment Volatile, or Magic
Pain Killer. Spirit of hartshorn, 1 ounce ;
olive oil, 1£ ounces ; cayenne pepper, 2
drachms; laudanum, 2 drachms; 1 table-
spoonful of salt and 2 of brandy. Shake well
in a bottle. Rub the affected part with it,
apply afterwards a rag saturated with it. It
removes pains and swellings. It is a magic
remt'dv.
4882. Instantaneous Pain Killer.
Another and even more instant cure of pain
is made as follows : Take aqua-ammonia, sul-
phuric ether, and alcohol, equal parts, and
applv over the pain.
4883. Chilblain Liniment. Take 1
ounce of camphorated spirit, \ ounce of the
liquor of subacetate of lead. Mix and apply
3 or 4 times a day. This is Sir Astley Cooper's
prescription, and a very efficacious remedy
for chilblains.
4884. Rheumatic Liniment. Tincture
of cayenne, oil of turpentine, olive oil, hem-
lock oil, gum camphor, sassafras oil, tincture
of prickly ash, of each 1 ounce ; powdered
capsicum, or cayenne, 1 ounce ; spirit of wine,
2 quarts ; vinegar, 1 quart ; ammonia, 1
quart ; add 2 ounces gum camphor. Mix,
put in a vessel, and stir occasionally till
mixed and dissolved. This is a magic liniment,
soon giving ease in rheumatic pains, gout,
neuralgia, sprains, &c., &c. It seldom or
never fails. "Good Samaritan" is also an
excellent remedy for rheumatism. (Sec No.
4858.) Bathe the parts affected freely,
and wet a piece of flannel and bind on the
parts.
4885. Good Liniment for Rheumat-
ics. Take 1 gill each of alcohol, beefs gall,
spirits of turpentine and sweet oil, and 4 oun-
ces gum camphor. Put them all in a bottle
and shake it up ; use it 2 or 3 times a day, a
tea-spoonful at a time. Apply it to the parts
affected, before the fire. It is good, also,
for frost-bites.
4836. Liniment for Old Rheumatic
Pains. A powerful liniment for old rheu-
matic pains, especially when affecting the
loins, is the following : Camphorated oil and
spirits of turpentine, of each 2 parts ; water
of ammonia, 1 part ; laudanum, 1 part ; to be
well shaken together.
4887. Gebhard's Liniment for Sprains
and Bruises. Mix together 2 ounces each
oil of spike and British oil ; 1 pint tanner's
oil ; i pint spirits of turpentine ; put it into
an iron or copper kettle placed over a fire, and
carefully stir in i ounce sulphuric acid.
"When the whole becomes quite hot, cool and
bottle. This is an excellent liniment for all
kinds of sprains and bruises, and for horses or
cattle it cannot be surpassed.
4888. Stimulating' Liniment. Cay-
enne, li ounces; salt, 1 table-spoonful;
spirits of wine, 2 ounces ; camphor, A ounce ;
spirits of turpentine, J pint. Bottle, and
shake now and then during one day. Then add
^ pint vinegar. It is excellent for sponging
the body in cases of pain, debility, inflam-
mation, rheumatism, gout, sore throat, numb-
ness, neuralgia, &c.
4889. Embrocation for Bruises. Pour
upon 2 ounces carbonate of ammonia (smell-
ing salts) as much distilled vinegar as will
dissolve it, then add 1£ pints common recti-
fied spirit, and shako the whole together in a
bottle. It is a good remedy for sprains and
bruises.
4890. Cajeput Liniment. Mix to-
gether? ounces soap liniment (see No. 4869),
^ ounce camphor, and 1 ounce oil of cajeput.
4891. Caiitharid.es Liniment for Chil-
blains. Mix together 2 ounces soap lini-
ment and 1 ounce tincture of Spanish flies.
Apply at intervals during the day.
4892. Compound Mustard Liniment.
Take of oil of mustard, 1 fluid drachm ; ether-
eal extract of mezereon, 40 grains; camphor,
120 grains; castor-oil, 5 fluid drachms; alco-
hol, 4 fluid ounces; dissolve the extract of
mezereon and camphor in the alcohol, and
add the oil of mustard and castor-oil.
4893. Nerve and Bone Liniment.
Take 1 ounce spirits of turpentine, i pint
brandy, and 1 gill neat's-foot oil. Simmer
over a fire till mixed ; then put it into bottles
for use.
4894. Mustard Oil Ointment. Crude
mustard-seed oil, 16 fluid ounces; ethereal
oil of mustard, 30 drops; water of ammonia, 4
fluid ounces, or a sufficient quantity to form
into a soap. Mix and bottle in broad-mouthed
phials containing about 2 ounces.
4895. "Wonderful Ointment. The fol-
lowing liniment is good for all sprains, bruises,
lameness, <fec. : Mix together 2 ounces oil of
spike; 2 ounces origanum; 2 ounces hem-
lock; 2 ounces wormwood; 4 ounces sweet
oil; 2 ounces spirit of ammonia; 2 ounces
gum camphor; 2 ounces spirits turpentine.
Add 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol, mix well to-
gether, and bottle tight. This is an un-
cqualed horse liniment, and, by omitting the
turpentine, it constitutes one of the best
liniments ever made for human ailments,
such as rheumatism, sprains, <fcc.
4896. Horse Embrocation. Take -j-
ounce each of oil of spike, oil of monarda
(horsemiut), and strong ammonia water; £
ounce acetate of opium, 1 ounce chloroform,
2 ounces tincture of camphor, 1 ounce oil of
origanum, and 2 ounces oil of camphor.
This is said to be an excellent preparation.
PILLS.
Pills. This form of medicine is par-
ticularly adapted for administering nau-
seous substances, and such as operate in small
doses. Extracts may be made into pills either
alone or with the addition of any simple pow- i
der, as that of liquorice, to increase their con-
sistence. Powders are usually beaten np
with syrup, mucilage, conserve of roses, or
extract of liquorice. Castile soap is frequent-
ly used for substances that are not decomposed
by alkalies. When the mixed ingredients are
made into a mass, it should be preserved in a
bladder placed in a covered stone pot, and
occasionally moistened with a little spirit, or
spirit and water, to prevent it getting hard.
In all cases the dry ingredients should be re-
duced to fine powder, and the whole beaten
into a uniform mass of a proper consistenc
for rolling into pills. This is effected by roll
ing it on a slab into a convenient thickness
and dividing into pieces of the requisitt
weight, lastly rolling them between the thuml
and finger, to give them a globular form. A
pill machine is usually employed for dividing
the roll and shaping the pills. In ordinarj
cases, rolling the pills in carbonate of magne
sia or powdered starch is usually adopted, to
prevent them sticking together while moist
For other pills not under this heading, see
Index.
4898. To Sugar-coat Pills. To sugar-
coat, place the pills dry and smooth in a rounc
copper pan or porcelain dish. In another pan
dissolve white sugar in water in the same pro-
portion as for making simple syrup; and, when
dissolved, slowly evaporate the syrup until il
feathers ; that is, when a small portion taken
out with a ladle and drawn up between two
fingers forms a thread. The pan with the
pills is next suspended over a slow fire, a lit-
tle fine flour is sprinkled over them, and imme-
diately after a spoonful of the syrup is poured
on, or enough to cover. The pan is now kept
swinging or moving over the fire, care being
taken not to burn the sugar by too much
heat, until it is reduced to a fine dust. Then
more sugar is added, and the swinging and
drying continued until a coat of sufficient
thickness is obtained.
4899. To Silver or Gild Pills. Pills
are gilded and silvered by rolling them be-
tween the fingers slightly moistened with
mucilage, and then shaking them up in a
small gallipot covered with a piece of paper,
along with a little gold or silver leaf, or a lit-
tle powdered gold or silver.
4900. Aloes Pills. Make 1 ounce aloes
and 1 ounce soap into a mass with water.
Divide into 240 pills.
4901. Aloes and Assafcetida Pills.
Take k ounce each powdered aloes, a^saftetida,
and soap, made into a mass with water. Di-
vide into 180 pills.
4902. Aloes and Myrrh Pills. Mix; 1
ounce aloes, k ounce myrrh, and f ounce
saffron, with sufficient syrup to make a mass.
This is sufficient for 240 pills.
4903. Assafcetida Pills. Mix into a
mass with water J ounce assafoatida and i
ounce soap. Make into 120 pills.
4904. Sulphate of Quinine Pills. Mix
J ounce sulphate of quinine with 1 drachm
powdered gum-arabic, and make into a mass
with honey. To make 240 pills, each of which
will contain 1 grain of quinine.
4905. Quinia Pills for Chronic In-
termittent Fever. Mix 20 grains sulphate
of (juinia. 2 grains powdered opium, and 5
minims oleo-resin of pepper, with sufficient
syrup of gum-arabic to make a mass. Make
into 20 pills. Dose, 2 pills every hour in the
morning of an expected chill.
4906. Alterative Pills. Take 24 grains
blue mass, 3 grains pulverized opium, and 3
grains powdered ipecacuanha. Make into 24
pills.
4907. Vegetable Anti-bilious Pills.
Take 54 grains pulverized compound extract
of colocynth, and 6 grains podophyllin (ex-
tract of may-apple or mandrake root). Make
into 24 pills.
4908. Anti-chill Pills. Take 20 grains
chinoidine, 40 grains ferrocyanuret of iron, 20
grains oil of black pepper, and 1 grain arsenic.
Make up into 20 pills.
4909. Aperient Pills.' Take 8 grains
nux-vomica, 12 grains extract of henbane,
and 48 grains compound extract of colocynth.
Make into 24 pills.
4910. Diuretic Pills. Take 40 grains
powdered castile soap, 40 grains dry carbonate
of soda, and 20 drops oil of juniper. Make
into 20 pills.
4911. Gonorrhea Pills. Take 48 grains
powdered cubcbs, 24 grains solid balsam of
cepaiba (powdered), 12 grains sulphate of
iron, and '36 grains Yenice turpentine. Make
into 24 pills.
4912. Mandrake Mercurial Pills.
Take 6 grains podophyllin (extract of man-
drake or may apple), and 48 grains blue pill,
ake into^ pills.
4913. 'Podophyllin, Aloes, and Iron
Pills. Take 3 grains podophyllin, 15 grains
socotrine aloes, 15 grains extract of nux-
vomica, _ 45 grains dry sulphate of iron, l"0
drops oil of cloves, and sufficient syrup of
gum-arabic to make into a mass. Divide into
30 pills, Dose, 1 pill immediately before each
meal. A good remedy for indigestion, with
lostiveness.
4914. Opium Pills. Mix 2 drachms
opium and 24 grains soap with water, to make
120 pills.
4915. Iodide of Iron Pills. Mix 1
drachm sulphate of iron, 4 scruples iodide
of potassium, 10 grains tragacanth, and J
drachm sugar with syrup. Make into 40
pills.
4916. Compound Iron Pills. Triturate
.ogethcr 2 drachms myrrh and 1 drachm car-
bonate of soda ; then add 1 drachm sulphate
>f iron, and make up with syrup into 80 pills.
4917. Compound Cathartic Pills. Take
_ ounce compound extract of colocynth, 3
drachms extract of jalap, 3 drachms mild
chloride of mercury, and 2 scruples gamboge;
mix with water to make 180 pills.
4918. Copaiba Pills. Mix 2 ounces
copaiba with 1 drachm fresh magnesia ; set it
side to dry, and, when the mass is of proper
Consistency, make into 200 pills.
4919. Mercurial Pills. These are com-
monly known as blue pills. Eub 1 ounce mer-
cury with 1$ ounces confection of roses;
add i ounce liquorice root, and divide into 480
OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES.
4:4,7
4920. Calomel Pills. Mix i ounce
mild chloride of mercury with 1 drachm pow-
dered gum-arabic. Make up with syrup, into
240 pills.
4921. Compound Galbanum Pills. 6
drachms myrrh, and 2 drachms assafoetida,
mixed with sufficient syrup. Make 240 pills.
4922. Rhubarb Pills. Mix 3 drachms
powdered rhubarb and 1 drachm soap with
water to make GO pills.
4923. Compound Rhubarb Pills.
Form into a mass with sufficient water, 1
ounce rhubarb, 6 drachms aloes, i ounce
myrrh, and i fluid drachm oil of peppermint.
Divide into 240 pills.
4924. Compound Pills of Squill. Mix
1 drachm powdered squill, 2 drachms ammo-
niac, and 2 drachms ginger, with 3 drachms
soap. Make up with syrup into 120 pills.
4925. Compound Storax Pills. Take
6 drachms of storax, 2 drachms of powdered
opium, and 2 drachms of saffron ; work up to
the proper consistency of a pill mass. Dose,
from 5 to 10 grains.
4926. Sulphur Pills. The following
formula furnish a convenient and neat method
of administering sulphur when this useful
medicine is required to be given as an altera-
tive in chronic rheumatism and certain dis-
eases of the skin : Take sulphur, 42 grains ;
castile soap, 18 grains. Mix and divide into 12
pills. 1 to 3 pills for a dose, morning and
night. Or : Take sulphur and acetate of po-
tassa, of each 24 grains. Make up with suffi-
cient confection of roses into 12 pills. 1 or
2 twice a day in scorbutic and scrofulous
cases, and when sulphur generally is indicated.
4927. Sulphite of Soda Pills. Dr.
Polli, who introduced the sulphites to the
notice of the medical profession in certain
blood diseases, recommends the following
formula : Take powdered sulphite of soda, 36
grains; powdered ginger, 12 grains. Make
up with mucilage into 12 pills. Dose, 1 to 3
soon after eating. These are given when the
stomach is foul, and the food ferments and
becomes putrescent. The sulphite of magne-
sia, Dr. Polli says, is better for this purpose
than sulphite of soda. Sulphur obtained by
decomposing precipitated sulphide of copper,
called brotvn sulphur, is stated by Dr. J. Han-
non, an English Physician, to be a most
powerful remedy against gout and rheuma-
tism.
4928. Pepsine and Iron Pills. Mix
together 2 drachms 34 grains starchy pepsine,
and half that weight of iodide of iron in
crystals, with sufficient syrup to make 100
pills. Cover them with 2£ drachms reduced
iron, and finish with sugar-coating.
4929. Compound Taraxacum Pills.
Take -J drachm extract of taraxacum, and 10
grains blue pill. Make into 10 pills. Dose, 1
pill three times a day, in dropsy with disease
of the liver.
4930. Pills of Iodide of Iron. Mix h
troy ounce iodine with 1 fluid ounce water in
a thin glass bottle ; add 2 drachms iron wire
in small pieces, and shake together until a
clear green solution is formed. Mix 1 troy
ounce sugar, i troy ounce marshmallow, 1
drachm gum-arabic, and 1 drachm reduced
iron, all in fine powder, in a porcelain capsule.
Filter upon them, through a small filter, first
the green solution, heated, and afterwards 2
fluid drachms water. Evaporate over a water-
bath with constant stirring, to a mass, and
divide it into 300 pills. Dissolve GO grains
balsam of tolu in 1 fluid drachm ether, shako
the pills in the solution until uniformly coated,
and place them on a plate, occasionally stir-
ring them until dry. Keep in a well stop-
pered bottle. (U. S. PJi.) The iodide of iron
pills, as ordinarily prepared, crumble by time
and exposure ; but, made according to the
above formula, they will undergo no change.
This is the plan proposed by Prof. Procter in
imitation of Blancard's Pills. (U. S. Dis.)
Ointments, Salves, and
Cerates. Ointments are unc-
tuous preparations, that merely differ from
cerates in consistence, being made and used
in a similar manner. Their solidity should
not exceed that of good butter, at the ordi-
nary temperature of the atmosphere. When
the active ingredients are pulverulent substan-
ces, nothing can be more suitable to form the
mass of the ointment than good lard, free
from salt ; but when they are fluid, or semi-
fluid, prepared suet, or a mixture of suet and
lard, will be necessary to give a proper con-
sistence to the compound; in some few in-
stances wax is ordered for this purpose.
Glycerine is now frequently prescribed in
ointments, and is difficult to mix. Suppose
it be ordered with zinc ointment, as is often
the case, do not use ready-made zinc ointment,
but weigh the proper quantity of oxide, rub
the glycerine with it, and then add the lard.
This makes a good smooth ointment which
does not; separate. Of course, the same plan
can be adopted svith any other powder. If
there be no powder, melt the ointment, but
do not let it get too hot, and beat the glycer-
ine in and stir till cold ; it then mixes much
better ; but still, if there be a large proportion
of glycerine, it will separate after a time.
(See No. 5009, ^-c.) Unctuous preparations
may be prevented from getting rancid, by dis-
solving in the fat a little gum-benzoin or ben-
zoic acid. The term cerate is applied to those
unguents which contain wax. A number of
these preparations are given here, and others
will be found, by referring to the Index, under
their respective headings.
4932. Simple Cerate. Melt together
8 ounces lard, and 4 ounces white wax, stir-
ring constantly until cold. ( U. S. Pli.)
4933. Spermaceti Cerate. Melt to-
gether 2 ounces spermaceti, 8 ounces white
wax, and 1 pint warm olive oil, and stir assi-
duously until cold. This is used as a soft
cooling dressing. As soon as the materials
are melted, they should be moved from the
fire, strained into a clean vessel, and stirred
until cold. To facilitate the cooling, the ves-
sel may be placed in cold water or a current
of cold air. This will render the product
both whiter and finer than when allowed to
cool by itself. The operation of melting
should be performed in a water-bath. On
the large scale lard or suet is substituted for
oil, by which means less wax is required.
The following is a good form where a cheap
4,4:8
OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES.
article is -wanted : Clarified mutton suet, Si-
pounds ; vrhito wax and spermaceti, of each 4
pounds. As above.
4934. Chilblain Ointment. Take of
gall-nuts, in very fine powder, 1 drachm
avoirdnpcis ; spermaceti cerato (see No.
4933), 7 drachms ; mix, add pnro glycerine,
2 drachms, and rub the -whole to a uniform
mass. An excellent application to obstinate
broken chilblains, particularly -when used as a
dressing. "When the parts are very painful, 1
ounce of compound ointment of galls may bo
advantageously substituted for the galls and
cerato ordered above. (Sec No. C003.)
4935. Family Salve. Take the root of
fellow dock and dandelion, equal parts ; add
good proportion of celandine and plantain.
Extract the juices by steeping or pressing.
Strain carefully, and simmer the liquid with
sweet crearn, or fresh butter and mutton
tallow, or sweet oil and mutton tallow.
Simmer together until no appearance of the
liquid remains. Before it is quite cold, put
it into boxes. This is one of the most sooth-
ing and healing preparations for burns, scalds,
cuts, and sores of every every description.
4936. Salve for All Wounds. Take 1
pound hog's lard, 3 ounces white lead, 3 oun-
ces red lead, 3 ounces bees'-wax, 2 ounces
black resin, and 4 ounces common turpentine ;
all these ingredients must bo put together in
a pan, and boil £ of an hour ; the turpentine
to be put in just before it is done enough, and
give it a gentle boil afterwards. This is an
excellent cure for burns, sores, or ulcers, as it
first draws, then heals afterwards ; it is excel-
lent fjr all wounds.
4937. Lard Ointment. Melt 2 pounds
pure lard, add 3 fluid ounces rose-water, and
beat them well together while hot. When
cold, separate the congealed fat from the
wator. This is simple lard ointment.
4938. Savine Ointment. Savine tops,
dried and in fine powder, 1 drachm ; ointment
of white wax (?imple ointment), 7 drachms;
mix by trituration.
4939. Simple Ointment of White
Wax. Olive oil, 5i fluid ounces; white
•wax, 2 ounces ; melted together and stirred
•while cooling.
4940. Spermaceti Ointment. Melt
together 5 ounces spermaceti, 14 drachms
•white wax, and about 1 pint olive oil. The
article commonly sold as spermaceti oint-
ment is composed of 1 pound spermaceti, k
pound white wax, and from 3 to 6 pounds
pure lard.
4941. Camphor Ointment. Camphor,
finely powdered, 1 ounce; lard, 2 ounces.
Mix. It is designed to ripen indolent tumors.
4942. Compound Iodine Ointment.
Mix 1 drachm iodide of potassium in very
fine powder, with 2 ounces lard ; then add i
drachm iodine dissolved in 1 fluid drachm
rectified spirit.
Fresh lard cannot always bo got, and as
^ng as simple cerate is directed to be made
with white wax, an already rancid body, it
happens very often that an ointment of
iodide of potassium gets yellow, instead of
being perfectly white. A few grains of hy-
posulphite- of soda dissolved in a little water,
added to such ointment, will havo the effect
of turning it snow-white.
4943. Compound Belladonna Oint-
ment. Mix 1 drachm fresh extract of bel-
ladonna with 7 drachms of compound iodine
ointment. (See No. 4942.) For dispersing
glandular tumors, &c., which it is not desira-
ble to mature.
4944. Ammoniacal Ointment. Melt
1 ounce each of suet and lard, in a strong
wide-mouthed bottle; add 2 ounces liquor of
ammonia of specific gravity .923, and close
the bottle immediately. Then mix, by sha-
king the bottle, until the contents harden.
The fat should not bo heated any more than
is sufficient to melt it, to prevent unneces-
sary loss of ammonia.
4945. Catechu Ointment for Tropical
Climates. An astringent ointment may be
prepared, which is not likely to become soon
rancid, as is the case with ointments made
with fat. Melt 4 ounces resin in 4 pint olive
oil ; add 1 ounce alum and 3 ounces catechu,
both finely powdered.
4946. Stramonium Ointment. Mash
bushel of green stramonium, or jimson
leaves, to a pulp (this is best done by mash-
ing a few leaves at a time), put the pulp in
an iron kettle over a slow fire. Add 2|
pounds fresh lard, and simmer to a crisp.
Strain and box for use. Or: Take extract of
stramonium, 1 drachm; lard, 1 ounce, and mix
by trituration. This ointment is excellent
for strengthening broken limbs after the
bones have healed. It is also good for skin
diseases, painful piles, ulcers, burns and
as it scalds. It is probably the best ointment that
can be kept in a family for general use. .
4947. Mercurial or Citrine Oint-
ment. Dissolve by gentle heat, 4 ounces
mercury (quicksilver) in 70 fluid drachms ni-
tric acid cf specific gravity 1.5; add the liquid
to 15 ounces lard and 32 fluid ounces olive
oil ; stir together, increasing the heat until tho
mixture froths. Keep it in air-tight earthen-
ware or glass vessels.
4948. Mild Mercurial Ointment.
This is made by mixing 1 pound mercurial
ointment with 2 pounds lard.
4949. Magnetic Adeps. This is a pre-
pared fat used tor making mercurial ointment,
as it will reduce 30 to 40 times its -weight of
quicksilver to salve. It is made by pouring
melted lard, in a small stream, into cold water,
placing the thin fragments thus obtained in a
sieve covered with paper, or other suitable
apparatus, and exposing it to the air for 3 or
4 months.
4950. Ointment of Iodide of Sulphur.
Reduce 30 grains iodide of sulphur to a fine
powder, rub it with a small portion taken
from 1 trey ounce lard, then add the remain-
der of tho ounce of lard, and mix them
thoroughly. (U. S. Ph.) .
4951. Ointment of Borax. This is
also called Pomade de Toscanic. Take of
borax in very fine powder, 1 drachm avoir-
dupois; spermaceti ointment, 1 ounce; mix
by trituration. lu excoriations, chaps, <fec.
It also forms an excellent lip-salve. A drop
of neroli, or \ drop of otto of roses, renders it
more agreeable.
4952. Glycerinated Ointment of
Borax. To the borax ointment, as prepared
in the foregoing receipt, add 1 drachm avoir-
dupois pure glycerine, using a slightly
OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES.
44.9
warmorl mortar for the mixture. This is a
very ellective ointment.
4953. Ointment of Creosote, or Creo-
sote Pomade. Take of creosote, 1 fluid
drachm; spermaceti ointment {see No. 4940),
1 ounce avoirdupois ; triturate them together
in a slightly warmed mortar until perfectly
united, and subsequently until nearly cold.
It is used as a dressing for scalds and burns,
chilblains, &c. It is very useful in ringworm
and some other skin diseases ; also as a fric-
tion in facial neuralgia or tic-douloureux.
4954. Ointment for the Itch. The
usual treatment of itch has been noticed
elsewhere, and various lotions, ointments and
pomades, of more or less value in its treat-
ment, will be found under the names of their
leading ingredients. Here are two additional
formula} :
4955. French Hospital Itch Oint-
ment. Take of chloride of lime, 1 drachm
avoirdupois ; rectified spirit. 2 fluid drachms;
rub them together, add i fluid ounce sweet-
oil; soft-soap, 2 ounces ayiordupois; oil of
lemon, ^ fluid drachm; mix perfectly, and
then further add common salt and sulphur, of
each 1 ounce. Cheap, very effective, and
much less offensive than sulphur ointment.
4956. Stavesacre Ointment. Melt to-
gether 1 ounce powdered stavesacre (staphis-
agria), and 3 ounces lard; digest for 3 or 4
hours, and strain. A cleanly remedy for
itch, and for destroying body vermin.
4957. Ointment for Baker's Itch.
Mix well together! ounce ointment of nitrate
of mercury (sec No. 4947), and 1 ounce palm
oil.
4958. Venice Turpentine Ointment.
Yenice turpentine, 2 ounces; tar, 1 ounce;
butter, 4 ounces. Simmer until they are well
mixed. This is very good for scald-head,
ringworm, &c. First wash the head well
with soap and water, and then apply the
ointment.
4959. Brown Ointment. Extract of
henbane, 1 drachm ; yellow wax, i ounce ;
red precipitate, 2 A drachms; pure zinc, pow-
dered, 1J drachms; fresh butter, 3 ounces.
Melt and mix, and add li drachms camphor
dissolved in olive oil. This ointment is good
for ringworm, all cutaneous eruptions, for
ulcers, sore lips, itch, chronic ophthalmia, &c.
4960. Tar Ointment. Tar and mutton
suet, equal parts ; melt together, and stir till
cold. This is an excellent remedy for scald-
head and ringworm.
4961. Tobacco Ointment. Fresh to-
bacco leaves, chopped small, 1 ounce ; lard, 1
pound; boil till crisp, and strain through lime.
U sed for ringworm, irritable ulcers, and other
diseases of the skin. It should be used with
caution.
4962. Salt Rheum Ointment. Mix in
an earthen vessel, 1 ounce aqua-fortis, with 1
ounce quicksilver; when effervescence has
ceased, incorporate with it 1 pound lard and
1 ounce dissolved hard soap ; then work
into the mixture 1 ounce prepared chalk
and i table- spoonful spirits of turpentine.
4963. Magnetic Ointment. Lard, rai-
sins cut in pieces, and fine-cut tobacco, equal
weights ; simmer well together, then strain
and press out all from the dregs. This is an
excellent ointment for salt-rheum and other
skin diseases. It is also good for piles, bruis-
es, and cuts.
4964. Basilicon Ointment. Take 10
ounces resin, 4 ounces yellow wax, and 16
ounces lard; melt them together, strain
through muslin, and stir constantly until
cool. This is the resin ointment of the U. S.
Pharmacopoeia. The British officinal pre-
paration contains only 8 ounces resin, and
substitutes simple ointment for the lard.
4965. Yellow Basilicon Ointment.
Yellow wax, 8 ounces; burgundy pitch, 3
ounces ; Venice turpentine, 4 ounces; linseed
oil, 10 ounces. First melt the resin, to
which add the wax and the burgundy pitch.
When the whole is melted, remove from the
fire, and slowly put in the oil, stirring well
till it is cold. For healing cuts, abscesses, &c.
4966. Black Basilicon Ointment.
Black basilicon, yellow wax, and yellow
resin, 10 ounces ; common pitch, 5 ounces.
Melt as before, and add 10 ounces linseed oil
when taken from the fire.
4967. Green Basilicon Ointment.
Yellow wax and yellow resin, of each 3 oun-
ces ; Yenice turpentine, 6 ounces ; powdered
verdigris, 1 ounce ; lard, 6 ounces. Melt first
the resin, <fcc., as before. Yery efficacious in
healing cuts, abscesses, and local affections
of any kind.
4968. Saturnine Cerate. Powdered
acetate of lead, 2 drachms ; white wax, 2 oun-
ces ; olive oil, £ pint. Melt the wax in the
oil, and add gradually the acetate of lead,
separately rubbed down with a portion of the
oil reserved for that purpose.
4969. Hemlock Salve. Hemlock oint-
ment, 12 ounces; spermaceti, 2 ounces;
white wax, 3 ounces ; melt the last two, then
add them to the first, softened by a gentle
heat. Used for inveterate cancerous, scrofu-
lous, and other sores.
4970. Green Stick Salve. According to
the American Dispensatory, this is prepared by
taking white gum turpentine, bayberry wax,
of each 2 ounces ; melt together, strain, and
stir till cold ; adding olive oil will give it the
consistence of an ointment.
4971. Black, or Healing Salve.
Olive oil, 1 pint; common resin, i ounce;
bees'-wax, \ ounce ; Yenice turpentine, J
ounce. Melt, raising the oil nearly to the
boiling point ; then gradually add 2 or 3 oun-<
ces powdered red lead while on the fire ; do
not burn it; boil slowly till it becomes a
dark brown ; remove from the fire, and add 1
drachm powdered camphor when it is nearly
cold. This is a first-rate healing salve, supe-
rior to most; is wonderful in burns, scalds,
scrofulous, fistulous, and all other ulcers.
Spread on linen, and renew daily.
4972. Bed Salve. Red salve, 1 pound ;
bees'-wax and resin, of each 2 ounces ; linseed
and sweet oils, of each 3 table-spoonfuls;
spirits of turpentine, 1 tea-spoonful ; melt all,
except the first and last, together, then stir
in the lead and stir until cool, adding the
turpentine. Good for all inflamed sores.
4973. Green Salve. White pine tur-
pentine and lard, \ pound each; honey and
bees'-wax, £ pound each ; melt all together
and stir in k ounce of very finely pulverized
verdigris. This ointment cannot be surpassed
when used for deep wounds. It prevents
450
OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES.
Eroud flesh from forming, and keeps up a
ealthy discharge.
4974. Green Ointment. Take prepared
Bubacetate of copper, £ drachm; ointment of
white wax {see No. 4939), 7£ drachms. Trit-
urate the subacetato of copper with the oint-
ment until they are intimately mixed. A
mild caustic, applied to venereal ulcers of the
mouth and tonsils, and to the ulcerated sore
throat of scarletina.
4975. Cod-JLiyer Oil Ointment. Melt
together 1 part white wax, 1 part spermaceti,
and 7 parts pale cod-liver oil. Used for
ophthalmia, scrofulous sores, rheumatism, stiff
joints, and some skin diseases, including ring-
worm. Scented with oil of nutmeg and bal-
sam of Peru it forms an excellent pomade for
strengthening and restoring the hair.
4976. Ointment for Old Sores. Ked
precipitate, 4 ounce ; sugar of lead, 4 ounce ;
burnt alum, 1 ounce; white vitriol, J ounce
or a little less ; all to bo very finely pulver-
ized; have mutton tallow made warm, 4
pound; stir all in, and stir until cool. Good.
4977. Bitter-Sweet Ointment. Bark
of bitter-sweet root, 2 ounces ; cover with
spirits of wine, and add, unsalted butter, 8
ounces. Simmer and strain. Excellent for
swelled breasts, tumors, ulcers, &c. It may
be applied twice a day.
4978. Astringent Ointment. Tritu-
rate 14 drachms powdered catechu with 2
fluid drachms boiling water; add, gradually,
1J ounces spermaceti ointment, continuing
the trituration until the mass concretes. This
is an excellent dressing for sores and ulcers,
especially during hot weather.
4979." Neuralgia Ointment. Take 2
drachms each of cyanide of potassium, and
chloroform, and make into a salve with 1
ounce lard, for external application.
4980. Ointment of Lead. Take of
olive oil, 4 pint; white wax, 2 ounces; sugar
of lead, 3 drachms. Let the sugar of lead,
reduced to a fine powder, be nibbed with
some of the oil, and added to the other in-
gredients, previously melted together, stirring
them till quite cold. This cooling astringent
ointment may be used in all cases where the
intention is to dry and skin over the part, in
scalding, &c.
4981. Zinc Ointment. Mix 1 ounce
^oxide of zinc and 6 ounces lard. This is
"astringent, desiccative, and stimulant; an
excellent and useful application for burns,
excoriations, and skin diseases attended by
discharges.
4982. Chloroform Ointment for Neu-
ralgic Pains. Mix 1 drachm chloroform
with 1 ounce spermaceti ointment. (See No.
4933.) This should be kept in a wide-
mouthed, stoppered phial.
4983. Belladonna Anodyne Oint-
ment. Mix 3 drachms fresh and good extract
of belladonna, 4 drachm powdered opium,
and 3 drachms lard. For neuralgia, <fcc., ap-
ply with friction for 6 to 8 minutes.
4984. Aconitine Ointment. Aconitine,
16 grains; alcohol, 12 drops; olive oil, 4
drachm ; lard, 1 ounce. Rub the aconitine
with the spirit, then add the oil by drops, and,
after it is thoroughly mixed, pour in the lard
rendered nearly liquid by heat ; stir well
until cold. A small portion is applied by the
tips of the fingers and gentle friction, in neu-
ralgic and rheumatic affections, &c.
4985. Ointment for Sore Nipples.
Glycerine, rose-water, and tannin, equal
weights, rubbed together into an ointment,
is very highly recommended for sore or
racked nipples.
4986. Tannin Ointment for Piles.
Tannin, 2 drachms ; water, 2 fluid drachms ;
triturate together, and add lard, 14 drachms.
An excellent application for piles.
4987. Spackman's Pile Ointment.
Mix together 14 ounces carbonate of load; 6
grains sulphate of morphia ; 1 ounce stramo-
nium ointment (see No. 4946) ; and sufficient
olive oil to make into a salve.
4988. Ointment for Piles. Triturate
8 grains morphia in 1 ounce melted sperma-
ceti ointment (see No. 4940), until the mor-
phia is dissolved; then add 14 drachms of
galls in impalpable powder, 12 to 15 drops es-
sential oil of almonds, and stir until the mass
is cool.
4989. Pile Salve. Take 1 scruple pow-
dered opium, 2 scruples flour of sulphur, and
1 ounce of simple cerate. (See No. 4932.)
Keep the affected parts well anointed. Be
prudent in your diet.
4990. Salve for Sore Breasts. Take 1
pound tobacco, 1 pound spikenard, 4 pound
of cumfrey, and boil them in 3 quarts cham-
ber-lye till almost dry; squeeze out the juice,
add to it pitch and bees'-wax, and simmer it
over a moderate heat to the consistence of
salve. Apply it to the part affected.
4991. Iodide of Lead Ointment. An
ointment of iodide of lead composed" of 4
parts iodide of lead, 4 parts chloride of ammo-
nium, and 50 of lard, is either of a yellow or
white color, according to the manner in which
these ingredients are brought together. "When
rubbed together dry, the color of the mixture
is yellow ; but when the chloride of ammo-
nium, in order to facilitate the mixing, is first
liquefied in a small quantity of water before
being added to the iodide of lead, the yellow
color of the latter disappears, owing to the
formation of two colorless salts, the chloride
of lead and iodide of ammonium. It is well
in cases like these to adhere strictly to the
directions of the prescription. (Eymael.)
4992. Ingall's lodoform Ointment.
Dissolve 4 drachm iodoform in sufficient rec-
tified alcohol, and make into an ointment
with 7£ drachms lard. lodoform is exten-
sively and successfully used in the treatment
of syphilitic ulcers and rupia. The above
formula is the one adopted by Dr. Ingalls,
attending surgeon of the Boston city hospital.
4993. Carbolic Cerate. Melt together
5 ounces lard, and 24 ounces white wax ; add
4 ounce balsam of fir, and when it begins to
cool, stir in 4 ounce carbolic acid. The addi-
tion of balsam fir to this preparation corrects
the disagreeable odor of the acid, and renders
it slightly adhesive, which is quite desirable
when used as a dressing for burns, old sores,
&c. (See No. 4996.)
4994. Ointment of Tannate of Man-
ganese. Mix 3 grains tannate of manganese
with 1 troy ounce cold cream. {Sec No. 1125.)
This is a good application for bad wounds.
4995. Tartar Emetic Ointment. Take
2 drachms potassio-tartrate of antimony, and
OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CEEATES.
rub it well into 1 ounce lard. This will pro-
duce an eruption on the skin very similar to
small-pox in appearance.
4996. Carbolic Salve. There are differ-
ent formulae recommended for this salve, con-
taining different amounts of carbolic acid;
the character of the disease will determine
which to use. The carbolic acid employed is
the crystallized article, sold in bottles, and
taken out by warming the latter in hot water,
or the fluid resulting from the crystals, which
are melted in warm weather, or are dissolved
by absorbing a little water, when the bottles
are not perfectly stoppered.
I. Take carbolic acid, k fluid drachm, and
lard, 1 ounce. Triturate together in a porce-
lain mortar.
II. Take carbolic acid, 1 fluid drachm, and
lard, 3 ounces. Melt the lard at a gentle heat,
add the carbolic acid, and triturate until the
mixture is cold.
III. Take carbolic acid, 1 fluid drachm,
and ointment of white wax (see No. 4939),
7 drachms. Prepare as No. II. (See No.
499:5.)
4997. Cerate of Sayine. Moisten 3
troy ounces savine in fine powder with
ether; pack it firmly in a cylindrical per-
colator, and displace with ether until the
percolate passes nearly colorless. Evaporate
' spontaneously to the consistence of syrup,
add it to 12 troy ounces resin cerate softened
by a gentle heat, and mix thoroughly.
4998. Sulphur Ointment. Mix to-
gether 1 ounce sublimed sulphur and 2 ounces
lard.
4999. Itch Ointment. Washed sul-
phur, 1 i ounces ; chloride of lime, 2 drachms ;
hog's lard, 4 ounces. Mix and make into an
ointment.
5000. Cucumber Ointment. Take of
oil of sweet almonds, 7 fluid ounces; sper-
maceti, 18 drachms ; white wax, 5 drachms ;
glycerine, 1 fluid ounce ; green cucumbers, 4
pounds. Cut the cucumbers in small pieces,
mash them in a wedgwood mortar, let them
macerate in their own liquor for 12 hours,
express and strain ; melt the almond oil,
spermaceti, and wax together, by means
of a water-bath ; add to it the strained
liquor, stirring constantly so as to incorporate
the whole together. Set aside in a cool place
(an ice-chest preferred) till it becomes hard,
then beat with a wooden spoon, so as to sep-
arate the watery portion of the cucumbers
from the ointment ; pour off the liquor thus
obtained, and mix the glycerine with the
ointment without the aid of heat, by work-
ing it with the hands until it becomes thor-
oughly incorporated. Put up in 4-ounce
jars, cover with a layer of rose-water, and
set aside in a cool place.
5001. Foot-Rot Ointment. Lard and
Venice turpentine, 4 ounces of each ; melt
and add 1 ounce blue vitriol. Good for cows
or sheep.
5002. Cracked Hoof Ointment. Tar
and tallow, equal parts melted together.
5003. Compound Resin Cerate. Melt
together 12 tro_f ounces each of resin, suet,
and yellow wax ; 6 troy ounces turpentine,
and "7 troy ounces flax-seed oil. Strain
through muslin, and stir constantly till cool.
( U. S. Ph.) This preparation, also known as
Deshler's Salve, should be kept well protected
from the air, as it is liable to become tough
by exposure. ( U. S. Dis. )
5004. Egyptiacum Salve. Take l.V
ounces verdigris, 1£ ounces alum, -J- ounce
sulphate of copper, fa ounce corrosive sub!;
mate, all in powder; boil over a slow fir;;
with 2i ounces vinegar and £ pound honey
until of a proper consistence. Stir up well
before using.
5005. Egyptian Ointment. A deter-
gent application for foul ulcers, &c. Mix by
heat and agitation, 10 parts verdigris, 1 part
calcined ,alum, 14 parts strong vinegar, and
32 parts thick purified honey.
5006. Compound Gall Ointment.
Eub together 6 drachms very finely pow-
dered gall-nuts, li drachms powdered opium,
and 6 ounces lard.
5007. German Black Salve. Lard,
24 parts ; white oxide of zinc and Peruvian
balsam, of each 3 parts; nitrate of silver,
finely pulverized, 1 part. This formula is
taken from the Hamburg Pharmacopoeia.
5008. To Keep Ointment from Be-
coming Rancid. About 2 per cent, of
finely powdered gum benzoin, or a less
quantity of benzoic acid dissolved in the
fatty matter by heat, will greatly retard,
if not wholly prevent, the ointment from
turning rancid.
5009. Schacht's Glycerine of Starch,
or Plasma. The use ol fatty matter as the
vehicle for drugs in preparing ointments and
cerates is sometimes open to objection. The
remedies introduced are frequently insoluble
in fat, which consequently acts to a certain
extent in defending the skin from, instead of
facilitating the perfect action of the remedy.
Aqueous remedies are difficult to mix with
fat without soap or some otherwise needless
addition. Another strong objection is the
tendency of fatty matter to become rancid
in contact with the skin. Mr. G. F. Schacht
proposes a substitute consisting of 1 fluid
ounce pure glycerine and 70 grains starch
powder. These are mixed while cold, and
then gradually heated to about 240° Fahr.,
constantly stirring ; he gives this preparation
the name of plasma. This constitutes a basis
whose consistence is good, and does not vary
with changes of temperature ; it is soluble in
water, and may consequently be removed
from tender surfaces with the greatest ease ;
it dissolves and thoroughly mingles with all
materials that are soluble in water, and there-
fore presents such remedies in the condition
most favorable for absorption ; and, lastly, it
is not liable to rancidity. "With plasma sub-
stituted for fat, may be produced preparations
corresponding to most of the cerates and oint-
ments of the Pharmacopoeia, but free from
the special objections before alluded to. The
plasma should be kept in a closely corked
bottle. The following plasmas are proposed
by Mr. Schacht as improvements on the corre-
sponding ointments of the Pharmacopoeia.
5010. Schacht's C antharides Plasma.
Evaporate the decoction of Spanish flies to an
extract, and mix with the plasma, using the
same proportions as laid down for cantharides
ointment. (See No. 5017. )
5011. Schacht's Mercurial Plasma.
Mix 14 drachms starch with 6 fluid ounces
POULTICES.
452
glycerine, gradually adding 12 ounces mercury,
and stirring till the globules disappear. Then
add 6 fluid ounces glycerine, and heat to 240°
Pahr., constantly stirring.
5012. Schacht's Glycerinated Nitrate
of Mercury. Take 1 drachm terbasic ni-
trate of mercury, and 1 ounce plasma.
5013. Schacht's Glycerinated Iodide
of Potassium. Dissolve 2 drachms iodide
of potassium in 2 fluid ounces glycerine;
add 140 grains starch, and heat to 240° Fahr.
5014. Schacht's Glycerinated Petro-
leum. Rub 1 drachm petroleum with 70
grains starch until quite smooth, then add
gradually 1 fluid ounce glycerine.
5015. Glycerinated Iodine. This is
recommended for loss of voice, and is com-
posed of 16 grains of iodine in 1 ounce inodor-
ous glycerine. The addition of starch to this
is not advisable, as it would convert the iodine
into iodide of starch.
5016. Narcotic Glycerole, for external
use, applied on lint. Take 1 part aqueous
extract of opium, 4 parts extract of bella-
donna, and 60 parts glycerine.
5017. Cantharides Ointment. Infuse
for 12 hours 1 ounce avoirdupois of canthar-
ides in 6 imperial fluid ounces olive oil in a
covered vessel. Place the vessel in boiling
water for 15 minutes, press through muslin,
and add 1 ounce melted yellow wax, stirring
constantly till cool. (Br. Ph.)
PO1lltiC6S. External applications,
used to promote suppuration, allay pain
and inflammation, resolve tumors, &c. They
are generally prepared with substances capa-
ble of absorbing much water, and assuming a
pulpy consistence, so as to admit of their
application to any surface, however irregular.
Their curative action principally depends on
the liquids with which they are moistened
and the heat retained by the mass. The ad-
dition of a little lard, olive oil, or, still better,
glycerine, to a poultice, promotes emollienl
action and retards hardening. A fold or two
of lint dipped in hot water, either simple or
medicated, and covered with a thin sheet o:
gutta-percha, or India-rubber cloth, to prevenl
evaporation, may often be conveniently em-
ployed instead of a poultice. Spongio-piline
(see No. 5039) is still better for this purpose
than lint. The following are the principa
poultices, but others may be found by referring
to the Index.
5019. Bread Poultice. Take stale
bread in pruinbs, pour boiling water over it
and boil till soft, stirring it well ; then take ii
from the fire, and gradually stir in a little
glycerine or sweet oil, so as to render the
poultice pliable when applied.
5020. Slippery Elm Poultice. Take
a sufficient quantity of pulverized slippery
elm bark ; stir it in hot or warm milk anc
water, to the consistence of a poultice. This
is a most efficacious poultice; is of almost
universal application, and removes inflamma
tion sooner than any other. If tincture o
myrrh be added, it is valuable in boils, ulcers
carbuncles, &c.
5021. Mustard Poultice. Take equal
>arts of ground mustard and ground flax-seed,
ind mix them thoroughly together, with
>arely enough of water to make them of the
hickness of common paste. To prevent
sticking, a little glycerine or sweet oil is to
)e added. The addition of bread crumbs
serves to diminish, that of a little vinegar to
ncrease the irritating power of the mustard.
5022. Strong Mustard Poultice. Mix
the best English ground mustard with strong
vinegar; spread it on a piece of book or
tarleton muslin, to prevent its adhesion to the
skin. Wet the part first with vinegar, and
apply the poultice.
5023. Linseed Poultice. Take of lin-
seefi, powdered, 4 ounces ; hot water, & pint.
Gradually sprinkle the powder into, and stir
well with a spoon. This is good and conve-
nient for many cases. It is preferable to the
bread and milk poultice so much in use, as it
is not so liable to become brittle and hard
when dry. It is very useful in carbuncle,
obstinate inflammation, &c.
5024. Carrot Poultice. Take of boiled
carrots, bruised, 1 pound; flour, 1 ounce; liut-
ter, i ounce. Mix them with a sufficient
quantity of hot water to form a pulp. This
will be found a valuable application in ulcera-
ted sores and swellings, scrofulous sores of an
irritable kind, and many other inveterate ul-
cers.
5025. Poultice for Sprains and Bruis-
es. Carbonate ammonia, 2 ounces ; vinegar,
2 pints ; proof spirits, 3 pints. Mix the am-
monia and vinegar; when the effervescence
ceases, add the spirit. For inflammation of
the joints, of some standing, mix with ani-
seed meal, and use as a poultice twice a day.
It is also valuable for sprains, bruises, and
other injuries.
5026. Charcoal Poultice. Linseed meal,
\ pound ; charcoal powder, 2 ounces ; hot wa-
ter, sufficient to give it the necessary consist-
ence. Or: Soak 2 ounces bread in i pint
boiling water; add to this, by degrees, 10
drachms linseed meal; and, afterwards, 2
drachms powdered fresh charcoal ; then sprin-
kle 1 drachm powdered charcoal on the sur-
face of the poultice. This poultice is highly
antiseptic ; that is to say, it has great power
in cleansing ulcers and correcting a tendency
to mortification. The power is derived from
the charcoal, which is remarkable for its puri-
fying energy. It should be frequently re-
newed. Dr. Bird, in his work on the medical
uses of charcoal, gives numerous proofs of the
efficacy of this application. Besides purify-
ing and healing, it conteracts the offensive
smell arising from putrid sores.
5027. Yeast Poultice. Take of milk,
blood- warm, 1 pint; 'yeast, 1 gill. Stir in
fine slippery elm bark, to form a poultice.
This is a good antiseptic and refrigerant poul-
tice. Applied to gangrenous ulcers, it is
more efficacious than any others; it sooner
arrests mortification, used with proper auxili-
aries. It is also very serviceable in other
species of inflammation.
5028. Indian Turnip Poultice. Take
of the tops and roots of Indian turnip, if
green; if dry, the roots only; simmer in wa-
ter, and add slippery elm bark sufficient to
form a poultice. This poultice is used in the
PLASTERS.
453
treatment of scrofula with the best effect. It
is superior to every other poultice in scrofula,
in a state of swelling and inflammation.
5029. Potato Poultice. Boil the com-
mon potato, mash or bruise soft, and then stir
in finely pulverized slippery elm bark. This
poultice has been used with success in oph-
thalmia (inflammation of the eyes) of an acute
character, when other means have failed.
5030. Goulard's Poultice. It is thus
made: Take Ik drachms extract of lead
(solution of acetate of lead) ; rectified spirit
of wine, 2 ounces ; water, 12 ounces ; bread-
crumb, sufficient to make the whole into a
proper consistence. This poultice is an excel-
lent application to reduce swelling and inflam-
mation, and to allay irritation.
5031. Lobelia Poultice. Linseed meal,
i ounce ; slippery elm, 1 ounce ; powdered
lobelia, li ounces; ginger, 1 ounce; whiskey
sufficient to make it. Good for all inflamed
parts, as the side in pleurisy, liver complaints,
rheumatism, lumbago.
5032. Poultice for a Fester. Boil
bread in lees of strong beer ; apply the poul-
tice in the general manner. This has saved
many a limb from amputation.
5033. Alum Poultice. Take of alum,
in fine powder, 1 drachm avoirdupois, and
the white of 2 eggs ; shake them together
until they coagulate. Formerly much used
in broken chilblains, chaps, sore nipples,
chronic inflammation of the eyes, .<fcc., ap-
plied on linen, and covered with a piece of
fine muslin.
5034. Hemlock Poultice. Make a
poultice of 4^ ounces linseed meal in \ pint
boiling water ; spread on its surface 1 ounce
extract of hemlock softened with a little hot
water. This is an anodyne application for
irritable and painful cancerous, scrofulous,
and syphilitic sores, tumors, &c.
5035. Gout Poultice. Dissolve 6
drachms balm of Mecca in 16 ounces rectified
spirit ; next digest for 48 hours, 1 ounce each
of red cinchona bark, sarsaparilla, and sage,
and i ounce saffron, in 32 ounces rectified
spirits ; filter this, mix it with the solution of
balm of Mecca, and add twice their weight of
lime-water. Sprinkle 2 fluid ounces on the
surface of a hot linseed meal poultice, large
enough to surround the affected part.
5036. Soap Poultice. Dissolve 1 ounce
scraped or sliced white soap in j pint boiling
water, and mix with sufficient bread to make
a poultice. This is good for scalds and
burns.
5037. Vinegar Poultice. Soak bread
in vinegar and apply cold; for bruises, ex-
travasations, black-eyes, &c.
5038. Chlorinated Poultice. Mix
gradually 4£ ounces linseed meal with G fluid
ounces boiling water ; add 2 fluid ounces of a
solution of chlorinated soda (chloride of so-
dium), applied to foul ulcers, &c.
5039. Spongio-piline. This is the
name of a very ingenious contrivance, recent-
ly introduced abroad, which may bo used
either as a poultice or as a means of fomenta-
tion. It consists of wool and small particles
of sponge, apparently felted together, and
attached to a skin of India-rubber. It is
about half an inch in thickness. It will be
found of great value and convenience for
either of the purposes referred to. It retains
heat for a considerable time, and vinegar,
laudanum, camphor, hartshorn, etc., can be,
by its means, placed on the skin, accompani-
ed by heat and moisture, much more readily,
and with greater cleanliness, than by means
of ordinary poultices.
Pl&SterS. External applications that
possess sufficient consistence not to
adhere to the fingers when cold, but which
become soft and adhesive at the temperature
of the human body. Plasters are chiefly
composed of unctuous substances united to
metallic oxides, or to powders, wax, or resin.
They are usually formed whilst warm, into -J-
pound rolls about 8 or 9 inches long, and
wrapped in paper. "When required for use, a
little is melted off the roll by means of a
heated iron spatula, and spread upon leather,
linen, or silk. The less adhesive plasters,
when spread, are usually surrounded with a
margin of resin plaster, to cause them to
adhere. In the preparation of plasters, the
heat of a water-bath, or steam, should be
alone employed.
5041. To Spread Plasters. In spread-
ing plasters convenience requires and neat-
ness demands an uncoated marginal edge.
This is usually secured by pasting strips of
paper along the edges of the skin or other
material used, and removing them after the
spreading of the plaster is affected. It is
just here that a practical difficulty frequently
arises. The paper edges are liable, from dry-
ing of the paste, to adhere so strongly that
either paper or skin will give way upon an
attempt at their removal ; the application of
water will then be necessary to soften the
attachment, and the final results may be ex-
pected to present a daubed and uncleanly
aspect. This difficulty may be entirely
avoided by applying to the paste brush a
little glycerine before the adjustment of the
marginal strips. (Ebert).
5042. To Prevent Plasters from
Adhering to Paper. It is recommended
to dust the latter over with powdered Trench
chalk. If a piece of thin paper, moistened
with olive oil and then wiped dry, be laid
over a plaster, it will prevent adhesion to the
wrapping paper.
5043. Litharge, Lead, or Diachylon
Plaster. Take 5 pounds litharge in very
fine powder, 1 gallon olive oil, and 1 quart
water. Or : 5 ounces litharge, 12 fluid ounces
olive oil, and 8 fluid ounces water. Unless
the oil is fully 2J- times the weight of the
litharge, the plaster soon gets hard and non-
adhesive. Put the water and litharge into a
perfectly clean and well polished tinned cop-
per or copper pan, mix them together with a
spatula, add the oil, and boil, stirring con-
stantly until the plaster is sufficiently hard
when thoroughly cold. This process usually
occupies from 4 to 5 hours. The operation
may be completed in from 20 to 30 minutes
by adding to the litharge and water £ pint
colorless vinegar, for each pouud of litharge
employed, previous to adding the oil.
5044. Mahy's White Lead Plaster.
Boil together 1 pound pure carbonate of lead,
PLASTEP.S.
32 fluid ounces olive oil, and sufficient -water,
constantly stirring until perfectly incorpora-
ted ; then add 4 ounces yellow wax, and 1|
pounds lead plaster; when these are melted,
and the mass somewhat cooled, stir in 9
ounces powdered orris root. This is an appli-
cation much used for inflamed and excoriated
surfaces, bed-sores, burns, &c.
5045. Deschamp's Plaster. Fasten a
piece of fine muslin, linen, or silk, to a flat
board ; give it a thin coating of smooth,
strained flour paste. "When dry, apply 2 coats
of colorless gelatine, made into size with
warm water. This is said to be superior to
the ordinary court plaster.
5046. Adhesive Resin Plaster. Eesin
plaster, spread upon muslin, forms the well-
known Strapping or adhesive plaster, so ex-
tensively used for protecting raw surfaces,
supporting parts, dressing ulcers, retaining
the lips of recent cuts and wounds in contact,
&c. It is gently stimulant, and is thought to
assist the healing process ; it is also employed
as a basis for other plasters. Mix by a mod-
erate heat, 1 ounce resin with 5 ounces
litharge plaster. (566^0.5043.) Or: 4 ounces
resin, and 2 ounces powdered castile soap,
with 2 pounds litharge plaster.
5047. Cancer Plaster. "White oak-
bark, 4 ounces ; bruise it well, and add urine
sufficient to cover it. Infuse four days, boil
it till it becomes as thick as molasses. Add
2 ounces honey and 2 ounces strained tur-
pentine gum. To make this plaster caustic,
add 2 drachms white vitriol. Spread on soft
leather or linen. It may be applied to all
kinds of ulcers and white swellings. For can-
cers it is invaluable.
5048. Anodyne Plaster. Melt an
ounce of adhesive plaster, or diachylon (see
No. 5043), and, whilst cooling, add a drachm
of powdered opium, and the same quantity of
camphor, previously dissolved in a small
quantity of olive oil. Spread on leather.
This soon relieves an acute local pain. Or:
Powdered opium, \ ounce ; resin of the spruce
fir, powdered, 3 ounces ; lead plaster, 1 pound.
Melt the plaster and resin together, then add
the opium and mix the whole. Useful for
rheumatic pains.
5049. Strengthening Plaster. Lith-
arge plaster, 24 parts; white resin, 6 parts; yel-
low wax and olive oil, of each 3 parts ; red
oxide of iron, 8 parts. Let the oxide be rub-
bed with the oil, the other ingredients added,
melted, and mix the whole well together.
This is an excellent plaster for relaxation of
the muscles and weakness of the joints arising
from sprains and bruises. The plaster spread
over leather should be cut into strips 2 inches
wide, and strapped firmly round the joints,
5050. Cough Plaster. Castile soap, 1
ounce ; lead plaster, 2 drachms ; sal-ammoniac,
1 drachm. Melt the soap and lead plaster to-
gether, and add the ammoniac when the mi x-
ture is nearly cold. This plaster must be
applied to the chest immediately after it is
spread, and must be renewed every 24 hours.
It is often of great service in whooping-cough
and coughs of an asthmatic character.
5051. Resolvent Plaster. Purified
ammoniac, 1 pound; purified mercury, 3
ounces; sulphuretted oil, 1 fluid drachm. The
mercury must be rubbed with the sulphuret-
ted oil till the globules disappear, and the
ammoniac, previously melted, added gradually,
and the whole mixed together. This plaster
has great efficacy in promoting the absorption
of glandular swellings and indolent tumors.
It is of much use also as an application to
corns and bunions. It can be obtained from
the apothecary, and is usually known as the
plaster of ammoniac and mercury.
5052. Burgundy Pitch Plaster. Melt
together 2 pounds strained burgundy pitch,
1 pound prepared frankincense, and 4 ounces
each yellow resin and bees'-wax : add 2 fluid
ounces each olive oil and water, and 1 ounce
expressed oil of nutmeg; stir constantly until
eAraporated to a proper consistence.
5053. Blister or Cantharides Plas-
ter. Molt together 7* ounces each yellow
wax and suet ; 6 ounces lard, and 3 ounces
resin; when mixed, remove from the fire, and,
a little before they concrete, sprinkle in and
mix thoroughly 1 pound very finely pow-
dered cantharides.
5054. Strong Blistering, or Canthari-
des Plaster. Mix at a heat below 212°
Fahr., 4£ ounces Venice turpentine, 3 ounces
each of burgundy pitch and cantharides, 1
ounce bees'-wax, 4 ounce finely powdered
verdigris, and 2 drachms each of powdered
mustard and black pepper.
5055. Warm Plaster. For this plas-
ter, take 1 part of blistering plaster, and of
burgundy pitch 14 parts ; mix them by means
of a moderate heat. This plaster is stimu-
lant, slightly irritating the skin, and is of use
in ordinary coughs and whooping-cough,
sciatica, and other local pains. *
5056. Homoeopathic Mustard Plas-
ter. For chronic inflammation, colds, sore
throats, inflammations of the lungs, liver, and
bowels, sprains, &c. Take 1 part by measure
of mustard ; 5 parts flour ; and 5 of Indian
meal. Mix the mustard in a little hot water,
and, when smooth, add about 2 parts boiling
water, and when all is dissolved stir in the
flour, and then the meal, thoroughly ; adding
more boiling water if necessary. Spread on a
thick cloth double folded, to retain heat and
moisture. Cover with mosquito netting, or
lace, and nothing closer, sew around the
edges, apply to the painful spot ; fasten with
bandages, and wear till dry, or for 24 hours,
and then put on a fresh one. Continue to
renew these for 1 or 2 weeks. When the skin
becomes too tender, add 1 more spoonful of
flour and meal each. "When these plasters
can no longer be borne, use powdered ginger
instead of mustard, and then finish with plain
Indian meal poultice alone. (Leggctt.)
5057. The Best Mustard Plaster.
Take a piece of waste linen, and, if crumpled,
iron it smooth ; or paper will do. Procure a
small quantity of black mustard seed, and
bruise it to a coarse powder, in a pestle and
mortar or otherwise. Spread over the linen a
thin solution of gum, and sprinkle the powder
equally over it. Dry in a warm place. "When
wanted, plasters may be cut of any size or
shape ; and when applied should be momen-
tarily dipped in tepid water, and tied over the
affected part with a bandage. These plasters
are more simple, cleanly, and effective than
the ordinary mustard poultices. This pre-
paration may be had at the drug stores,
GARGLES.
455
made in 3 different strengths, No. 1 being
the most powerful.
5058. Court Plaster. This plaster
is merely a kind of varnished silk, and its
manufacture is very easy. Bruise a sufficient
quantity of isinglass, and let it soak in a little
warm water for 24 hours ; expose it to heat
over the fire till the greater part of the water
is dissipated, and supply its place by proof
spirits of wine, which will combine with the
isinglass. Strain the whole through a piece
of open linen, taking care that the consistence
of the mixture shall be such that, when cool,
it may form a trembling jelly. Extend a
piece of black or flesh-colored silk on a
wooden frame, and fix it in that position by
means of tacks or twine. Then apply the
isinglass (after it has been rendered liquid by
a gentle heat) to the silk with a brush of fine
hair (badgers' is the best). As soon as this
first coating is dried, which will not be long,
apply a second; and afterwards, if the article
is to be very superior, a third. When the
whole is dry, cover it with two or three coat-
ings of the balsam of Peru. This is the
genuine court plaster. It is pliable, and
never breaks, which is far from being the case
with spurious articles sold under that name.
5059. De Rheims' Healing Paper.
Make a strong tincture of capsicum-pods by
steeping them for several days, in a warm
place, in twice their weight of rectified spirits
of wine. Dissolve gum-arabic in water to
about the consistency of molasses. Add to
this an equal quantity of the tincture, stirring
it together with a small brush or a large
camei's-hair pencil, until they are well incor-
porated. The mixture will be cloudy and
opaque. Take sheets of silk or tissue-paper;
give them with the brush a coat of the mix-
ture; let them dry, and then give another;
let that dry, and, if the surface is shining,
there is enough of the peppered gum ; if
not, give a third coat. This paper, applied
in the same way as court plaster to chil-
blains that are not broken, and burns that
are not blistered, speedily relieves the itching
and the pain. It acts like a charm, and
effects a rapid cure. The same with cuts and
discolored bruises. It likewise allays rheu-
matic pains in the joints. Its great value is
that, besides acting as ordinary sticking-plas-
ter, it abates suffering and hastens the process
of healing.
5060. Cooley's Corn Plaster. In a
piece of card, cut a round hole the size of the
central portion of the corn ; lay the card on a
piece of adhesive plaster, and warm the spot
of plaster exposed by the hole in the card, by
holding a hot iron near it for a second or
two; then remove the card and sprinkle some
finely powdered nitrate of silver on the warm
spot of the plaster. "When cold, shake off the
loose powder, and apply to the corn. Two
or three applications seldom fail to cure.
5061. Carbolic Plaster. Carbolic gly-
cerine, 34 parts by weight ; prepared chalk,
94 parts. Mix well by kneading, and enclose
in closely-stoppered jars.
5062. Irritating Plaster. Boil to-
gether 1 pound tar, J ounce burgundy pitch,
1 ounce white pine turpentine, and 2 ounces
resin. Finely powder 1 ounce each man-
drake root, blood root, poke root, and Indian
turnip. Stir these into the melted tar, &c.,
before it cools. This plaster, spread on mus-
lin and renewed daily, will raise a sore, which
is to be wiped with a dry cloth, to remove
matter, <fec. The sore must not be wetted.
This is a powerful counter-irritant, for re-
moving internal pains, and in other cases
where an irritating plaster is necessary.
&I*gleS are simple remedies well
adapted to domestic practice in sore
throats of various kinds. According to the
nature of the ingredients of which they are
made, they allay irritation and inflammation,
invigorate the membrane lining the mouth
and throat, and promote suppuration. The
particular purpose for which they are required
ought to l)e kept in view in their preparation.
5064. Potassa Gargle for Sore
Throat. Strong sage tea, 1 pint ; strained
honey, 2 table-spoonfuls ; chlorate of potassa,
1 tea-spoonful ; mix and use as often as ne-
cessary, being careful to shake before using.
Also poultice the throat with hops and warm
vinegar. Brewers' yeast substituted for the
chlorate of potassa makes a very effectual
gargle.
5065. Gargle for Sore Throat. Yery
strong sage tea, k pint ; strained honey, com-
mon salt, and strong vinegar, of each 2 table-
spoonfuls ; cayenne (pulverized), 1 rounding
tea-spoonful ; steeping the cayenne with the
sage, strain, mix, and bottle for use, gargling
from four to a dozen times daily, according to
the severity of the case.
5066. Carbolic Acid Gargle. Used as
a gargle for sore throat, attended with foul
breath. Take 2 grains of the crystals to 1 ounce
of water.
5067. Gargle for Ulcerated Sore
Throat. Water, ^ pint; decoction of Peru-
vian bark, £ pint : sulphate of zinc, 1 drachm.
Mix.
5068. Gargle for Inflammation of the
Throat. Purified nitre, 2 drachms; barley
water, 7 ounces ; acetate of honey, 7 drachms ;
mix the ingredients. To be used frequently.
5069. Gargle for General Domestic
TJse in Sore Throat. Take 3 tea-spoonfuls
vinegar, 2 tea-spoonfuls tincture of myrrh, 2
of honey, a glass of port wine, and 3 or 4 wine-
glasses of warm water; mix all these ingredi-
ents, and the gargle is ready for use. A de-
coction of the leaves of the black currant
may, with good effect, be added instead of
the warm water. This makes both a pleasant
and most useful gargle.
5070. Mucilaginous Gargle for In-
flamed Throat. Tincture of myrrh, 3
drachin:; ; mucilage of gum-arabic, 7 ounces.
Mix. This gargle is of use in defending the
parts when the saliva is of an acrid character.
5071. Gargle for Threatened Mortifi-
cation of the Throat. Tincture of capsi-
cum, 6 drachms ; honey of roses, 3 drachms ;
infusion of roses, A pint. Mix. Or : Tincture
of capsicum, G drachms ; infusion of Peruvian
bark, 5 ounces ; port wine, 3 ounces. Mix.
5072. Gargle to Promote Suppura-
tion. Barley water and infusion of linseed.
This gargle is to be used warm. It must be
4,56
CAUSTICS— EUBE FA CIE NTS — BALSAMS.
kept in view that this mild gargle acts by
softening the parts of the throat, and hasten-
ing the suppuration by its heat; and it is
requisite, therefore, that the temperature of
the gargle be kept up.
5073. Carbolized Gargle for Diphthe-
ria, Tonsilitis, &c. Carbolic acid, '20 min-
ims ; acetic acid, £ drachm; honey, 2 fluid
ounces ; tincture of myrrh, 2 fluid drachms ;
water, 6 fluid ounces. The carbolic and acetic
acids to be well shaken together before the
other ingredients are added. (Charles Sedg-
Subtances that corrode
or destroy the texture of the skin and
organized bodies. Their action is commonly
called burning. The principal caustics em-
ployed by surgeons are nitrate of silver,
caustic potassa, sulphate of copper, red oxide
of mercury, and the nitric and acetic acids.
5075. Vegetable Caustic. Burn oak
or beech wood to ashes. Make a lye from
them, and simmer it till it becomes rather
thicker than cream ; the evaporation may be
continued in the sun. Spread on leather when
used. It is valuable in cancers, fistulas, scrof-
ulous and indolent ulcers, where there is proud
flesh.
5076. Medicated Lint. Dissolve 20 to
30 grains nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce dis-
tilled water ; saturate \ ounce of dry lint with
the solution, and expose it in a saucer to the
light and air until it becomes black and dry.
5077. Iodine Paint; Iodine Caustic.
Take of iodide of potassium, \ ounce avoirdu-
pois; iodine, J ounce; proof- spirit, 3 ounces;
dissolve by agitation. Used as a paint in
cases in which it is desired to apply iodine, in
a strong form, locally ; also as a caustic for
corns, warts, «fec. (Soubeiran.) The tincture
of iodine of the Pharmacopoeia is, however,
more generally employed ; but it is only of
about one-third the strength of the above.
5078. To Prevent Iodine from Stain-
ing. By adding a few drops of liquid carbolic
acid to the iodine tincture, the latter will not
stain. According to Dr. Bogs, of the Indian
Service, carbolic acid also renders the efficacy
of tincture of iodine more certain. He re-
commends the following formula, whenever
injections of the latter are indicated: Alco-
holic tincture of iodine, 45 drops ; pure liquid
carbolic acid, 6 drops ; glycerine, 1 ounce ;
distilled water, 5 ounces. In blennorrhoea
and leucorrhoea, this mixture is said to be su-
perior to tar-water.
5079. Caustic for Corns. Take oi
liquid terehloride of antimony and tincture oJ
iodine, of each 2 drachms avoirdupois ; prot-
iodide of iron, 7 grains ; mix, and preserve it
in a well-stoppered phial. Applied, with care.
Two to four applications are said to effect a
cure.
5080. Convenient Vehicle for the
Application of Nitrate of Silver. At
University College Hospital (London) they
have adopted the plan of dissolving nitrate
of silver in nitrous ether; it can then be
spread with a camel's-hair brush over a sur-
face, and the ether immediately evaporates.
RTlbefacientS. Substances or
agents, which, when applied for a cer-
tain time to the skin, occasion a redness and
ncrease of heat without blistering. They
act as counter-irritants. Mustard or pow-
dered ginger, made into a paste with water,
lartshorn and oil, and ether or alcohol (when
,heir evaporation is prevented), are among
,his class of remedies.
5082. Counter-irritants. Substances
applied to the surface of the body to establish
a secondary morbid action, with the view of
relieving one already existing. Those best
mown are blisters, mustard poultices, harts-
lom aud oil, and liniment of ammonia.
5083. Blistering Tissue. These blis-
tering compositions are superior to the com-
mon cantharides blisters, from their greater
leanliness, efficiency, and case of application,
and their being less liable to produce excess-
ive irritation.
5084. Strong Blistering Tissue.
Powdered cantharides is exhausted with sul-
phuric ether by percolation (see No. 41), and
;ho resulting tincture reduced to the consist-
:nce of molasses by distillation ; the extract
is then mixed with twice its weight of yellow
wax, melted by a very gentle heat, and spread
on waxed cloth.
5085. Blistering Tissue. Digest 3
drachms powdered cautharides in 1 ounce
ther for a day or two; decant and add 4
drachms sandarach, 2 drachms mastic, -J-
drachm turpentine, and 10 or 12 drops oil of
lavender ; mix and spread as above.
5086. Blistering Tissue. Mix 2. parts
acetic extract of cantharides, and 1 part
each of resin cerate and bees'-wax; use as
before.
5087. Blistering Plaster. Infuse 3
drachms powdered cantharides in 4 ounces
acetic ether for 8 days ; decant and evaporate
as in 'No. C084; then add 4 drachms resin,
and spread on court plaster. •
5088. Management of Blisters.
Spread the plaster thinly on paper, or linen,
and rub over it a few drops of olive oil. In
this way the blister acts speedily, and with
less irritation than usual.
5089. To Camphorate Blisters. M.
Deschamps d'Avallon has suggested, when it
is desirable to camphorate a blister, it may be
readily accomplished by dropping on its sur-
face a few drops of a saturated solution of
camphor in chloroform, made by adding
2 parts of the latter to 4 of the former.
B2llS8lHlS. Balsams are semi-liquid
resinous substances, having for the
most part the consistence of honey. Some,
however, are solid, and the greater number
harden by exposure to the air and age. They
are generally aromatic, soluble iu alcohol,
partly soluble in ether, and not at all so in
water. Their usual constituents are resin
and benzoic acid, mixed with a large portion
of aromatic essential oil. Some of the sub-
stances falsely called balsams contain no ben-
zoic acid, as the balsam of copaiba, &c. ; and
many preparations, from the presumption
that they possess balsamic qualities, have also
received this name.
BALSAMS.
4:57
5001. Friar's Balsam, or Jesuit's
Drops. Take gum benzoin, 6 ounces;
straiued storax, 2 ounces; pulverized aloes
and inyrrh, each i ounce; balsam Peru, 1
ounce ; balsam tolu, 2 ounces ; extract of
liquorice, 2 ounces ; alcohol, 2 quarts. Let it
stand for 2 weeks, with occasional agitation,
and filter the whole through paper. A good
application for wounds and cuts ; and as such
was very effectual in the hands of the old
friars. Internally, it is stimulant, expector-
ant, and anti-spasmodic, and is useful in
asthma, catarrh, consumption, and lan-
guid circulation. Dose, k a drachm on loaf
sugar.
5092. Balsam of Horehound. Dis-
solve 2 ounces each extract of horehound
and extract of liquorice, in i pint hot water ;
when cold, add | pint paregoric, 6 ounces
oxymel of squills, 2 ounces tincture of ben-
zoin, and 10 ounces honey. Mix well and
strain through flannel. Dose for an adult, 5
to Ik tea-spoonfuls, accompanied by a dose or
two of aperient medicine.
5093. Balsam of Honey.
Balsam of
tolu, 1 ounce; gum storax, 1 drachm; puri-
fied opium, 15 grains; best honey, 4 ounces;
rectified spirits of wine, 1 pint. Digest them
together for a week, and strain the liquor.
This prescription is of great use in colds and
habitual coughs, unaccompanied by feverish
symptoms. The dose is from 1 'to 3 tea-
spoonfuls occasionally.
5094. Balsam Riga. Young shoots of
fir (collected in March), 2 pounds ; rectified
spirit and water, of each 5 pints. Bruise the
fir-shoots and macerate in the spirit and water
for 3 or 4 days, then distill 1 gallon. Or : Mix
together rectified spirit, 8 ounces ; oil of ju-
niper and compound tincture of benzoin, of
each 1 ounce ; agitate well and filter. Stim-
ulant and diuretic ; also used for sprains and
mix. As a pectoral in coughs and colds.
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful.
5098. Anodyne Balsam. Take of
white soap, 1 ounce; opium, unprepared, 2
drachms; rectified spirit of wine, 9 ounces;
digest them together by a gentle heat for 3
days ; then strain off the liquor, and add to it
3 drachms of camphor. This balsam is of
service in violent sprains and rheumatic com-
plaints, when not attended with inflamma-
tion. It must bo rubbed with a warm hand
on the part affected, or a linen rag moistened
with it, and renewed every third hour till
the pain abates.
5099. Balsam of Turpentine. Melt
by a gentle heat black resin, 1 pound ; remove
the vessel from the fire and add oil of turpen-
tine, 1 pint.
5100. Canada Balsam. This balsam
is the product of the Canadian balsam fir, a
tree of very common growth in Canada and
the State of Maine. When fresh, it has the
consistence of thin honey, an agreeable odor,
an acid taste, and a pale yellow color, nearly
white. It should be perfectly transparent,
and soluble in rectified oil of turpentine, with
which it forms a beautiful glassy and color-
less varnish, which is much used for preparing
a semi-transparent copying-paper. A facti-
tious kind is sold, but is wholly deficient of
some of the properties of the genuine balsam.
5101. Factitious Canada Balsam.
Dissolve 3 pounds of clear yellow resin in 1
gallon of oil of turpentine ; then add i pint of
pale linseed oil, and -J- ounce each of essence
of lemon and oil of rosemary.
5102. Factitious Balsam of Tolu.
Dissolve orange shellac and gum benzoin, of
each 1 pound, in coarse powder ; in rectified
spirit, 5 pounds (in a close vessel) ; filter and
distill off' the spirit until the residuum has a
proper consistence, then add a few drops of
the oils of cassia and nutmeg, dissolved in a
little essence of vanilla. Or : Take of balsam
of tolu, 4 ounces; white resin, 16 ounces;
sheep's suet, 1£ ounces, or sufficient to make
it soft enough, according to climate or season.
5103. To Detect Factitious Balsam
of Tolu. The genuine balsam is perfectly
soluble in alcohol, forming a transparent so-
lution. By exposure to the air it becomes hard
and brittle. It is frequently adulterated, in
which case it has a weaker smell, is less solu-
ble in alcohol, and the tincture formed with
that fluid is opaque.
5104. Factitious Balsam of Copaiba.
Powdered gum benzoin, 4 ounces; castor oil,
1 gallon; yellow resin, 3 pounds; balsam 01
Canada, 2 pounds ; oil of juniper, 2 ounces ;
oil of savine, 1 ounce ; essences of orange and
lemon, of each i ounce. Melt the resin, then
add a little of the castor oil and the powdered
benzoin, and withdraw the heat; when well
mixed add the remainder of the castor oil,
and, when nearly cold, the essences; mix
well, and filter through a Canton flannel bag,
adding a little coarsely powdered charcoal.
5105. Imitation Balsam of Copaiba.
Balsam of Canada, 8 pounds ; yellow resin, 3
pounds ; castor oil, 3 pounds ; oil of juniper,
J ounce ; essential oil of almonds, 15 drops ;
oil of savine, 20 drops. As above.
tolu and compound tincture of benzoin, of 5106. Reduced Balsam of Copaiba.
each 2 ounces ; rectified spirit, 4 ounces ; I Balsam of copaiba, 4 pounds ; castor oil, 3
bruises.
5095. Glycerine Balsam.
This is de-
signed to whiten and soften the skin,. remove
roughness, chaps, chilblains, and irritations
from common causes. Take pure white wax,
1 ounce; spermaceti, 2 ounces; oil of al-
monds, 9 ounces. Melt together by a moder-
ate heat in a glazed earthenware vessel, and
add pure glycerine, 3 ounces ; balsam of Peru,
i ounce. The mixture is to be stirred until
nearly cold, and then poured into pots. In-
attar of rose may be employed.
5096. Universal Wound
Balsam.
Gum benzoin, in powder, 6 ounces ; balsam of
tolu, in powder, 3 ounces ; gum storax, 2
ounces ; frankincense, in powder, 2 ounces ;
gum vnyrrh, in powder, 2 ounces ; socotrine
aloes, in powder, 3 ounces ; alcohol, 1 gallon.
Mix them all together and put them in a
digester, and give them a gentle heat for 3 or
4 days ; then strain. 30 or 40 drops on a
lump of sugar may be taken at any time, for
flatulency or pain at the stomach ; and in old
age, where nature requires stimulation. This
valuable remedy should be kept in every fam-
ily ready for use; it cannot be surpassed as an
application for cuts and recent wounds, and is
equally good for man or animals.
5097. Pectoral Balsam. Tincture of
4,58
TONICS.
pounds; mis. Or: Balsam of copaiba, 7
pounds ; castor oil, 4 pounds ; yellow resin, 2
pounds. Or: Equal parts of balsam of co-
paiba and balsam of Canada mixed together.
Or : To the last add 2 pounds of Venice tur-
pentine. Or : Balsams of Canada and copaiba,
and nut or castor oil, equal parts. Or: Co-
paiba, 7 pounds; nut oil, 3 pounds; yellow
resin, 2 pounds ; balsam of Canada, 1 pound.
The above are the forms for the reduction of
copaiba balsam, that have from time to time
been circulated in the drug trade. For the
mode of distinguishing such compounds from
the pure balsam, see next receipt.
5107. To Detect Factitious or Re-
duced Balsam Copaiba. Chevallier recom-
mends the following test: Place a drop of the
balsam on a piece of unsized -paper, and heat
it until all the essential oil be expelled; it
should then form a semi-transparent, well-
defined spot; but if the balsam has been
adulterated with a fat oil, it will be surrounded
by an oily areola. According to Blanche, the
pure balsam, when shaken with liquid ammo-
nia specific gravity .965, becomes clear and
transparent in a few moments. Vigne says :
2k parts pure balsam with 1 part liquor of
ammonia, form a transparent mixture, which
may be heated to 212° without becoming
opaque. Boiled with 50 times its weight of
water for 1 hour, it should lose at least half its
weight.
Dr. Hager recommends the following sim-
ple mode as very reliable for detecting adulter-
ation of copaiba balsam with turpentine oil : 5
or 6 drops of water and about 1 drachm of the
balsam are mixed in a small porcelain dish
with as much litharge as will make a thin
ointment. This mass, at the common sum-
mer temperature, exhales the characteristic
odor of oil of turpentine, even if the balsam
is adulterated with only 10 per cent, of the oil.
5108. Factitious Balsam of Peru.
Balsam of tolu, 1 pound; gum benzoin,
pounds ; liquid storax, 1 ounce; sufficient
rectified spirit. The gum benzoin in coarse
powder is dissolved in a little of the spirit,
and then mixed up with the balsam of tolu
and storax, adding as much spirit as is neces-
sary to reduce it to a proper consistence.
5109. Reduced Balsam of Peru.
Balsam of Peru, 3 pounds ; balsam of tolu, 2
pounds; rectified spirit enough to reduce it to
a proper consistence. As above. Or: Bal-
sam of Peru, 3 pounds; gum benzoin dis-
solved in the least quantity of spirit possible
1 pound. As above.
5110. To Detect Factitious or Re-
duced Balsam of Peru. Genuine balsam
of Peru should possess the following charac-
teristics: It should have a consistence anc
appearance resembling molasses, and an aro
matic odor between that of benzoin and va
nilla. It should be entirely soluble in alcohol
It should undergo no diminution in volume
when agitated with water. 1000 parts of the
balsam should saturate exactly 75 grains o'
pure crystallized carbonate of soda. Its speci
ric gravity should not bo less than 1.150, no
more than 1.160.
5111. Factitious Balm of Gilead
Also called Baumc dc la Mecquc. Gun:
benzoin, 1 pound ; resin, 4 pounds ; oil lemon
rosemary, caraway, of each 4 ounces; alcohol,
efficient quantity, till of proper consistence.
)r : 4 ounces gum benzoin may be dissolved
jy heat in 1 pound Canada balsam, and to
the mixture, when cold, J ounce each of the
oils of rosemary, lemon, and cassia, added.
5112. Hoffmann's Life Balsam, found
n Continental Pharmacopoeias under the name
Mistura oleoso-balsamica, and other titles, is
>repared as follows : Take 1 fluid ounce each
)f the oils of lavender, cloves, cinnamon,
thyme, lemon peel, and mace ; 3 fluid ounces
each oil of berganiot and balsam Peru ; and 5
nuts alcohol. The oils and balsam are grad-
ually added to the alcohol,, the whole well
shaken and allowed to rest for a few days in a
cool place, when it is filtered and ready for
use. Different European Pharmacopoeias vary
from each other somewhat in the proportion
of the oils.
5113. Nervine Balsam or Baume
Nerval. Expressed oil of mace, and pre-
pared ox-marrow, of each 4 ounces melted
together ; oil of rosemary, 2 drachms ; oil of
cloves, 1 drachm ; camphor, 1 drachm ; bal-
sam of tolu, 2 drachms; the last two dissolved
in rectified spirit, 4 fluid drachms; and the
whole stirred till cold.
5114. Balsam of Sulphur. Boil to-
gether in a vessel, tightly covered, 1 part flow-
ers of sulphur and 4 parts olive oil, until
they assume the consistence of a thick bal-
sam..
5115. Balm of Rakasiri. Oil of rose-
mary dissolved in common gin.
5116. Balsam de Malta. Gum benzoin,
2 ounces; gum aloes, 1 ounce; alcohol, 2 pints.
Mix.
r^OHlCS. Medicines that increase the
JL tone of the muscular fibre, and impart
vigor to the system. The principal mineral
tonics are iron, zinc, copper, silver, arsenic,
bismuth, mercury, and the mineral acids. The
principal vegetable tonics are cinchona or
Peruvian bark, cinchonine, quinine, the vege-
table bitters, and some of the aromatics. Of
the above, iron, bark, and its preparations, and
the aromatic bitters, are those generally em-
ployed, and which prove most genial to the
constitution.
5118. Stomachic Elixir. Pare off the
thin yellow rinds cf 6 large oranges, and put
them in a quart bottle with 1 ounce gentian
root, scraped and sliced, and £ drachm cochi-
neal. Pour over these ingredients a pint of
brandy ; shake the bottle well several times
during that and the following day; let it
stand 2 days more to settle, and clear it off
into bottles for use. Take 1 or 2 tea-spoonfuls
morning and afternoon, in a glass of wine or
in a cup of tea. This elegant preparation is
a most valuable tonic.
5119. Stomachic Elixir. Gentian root,
2 ounces ; bitter oranges, sliced, 1 ounce; Yir-
ginia snake-root, £ ounce. Bruise, and infuse
for 4 days in 1 pint of brandy ; then add 1
pint of water. A wine-glassful to be -taken
occasionally. Good for flatulency, indigestion,
want of appetite, &c.
5120. Tonic Infusion. Gentian root,
sliced, k ounce; dried orange peel, bruit-ed,
coriander seeds, bruised, of each 1 drachm ;
ANODYNES — DIAPHORETICS.
4,59
boiling •water, 12 ounces. Macerate for an
hour in a lightly covered vessel, and strain
the liquor. This infusion is often most bene-
ficially employed in general debility, chronic
fout, indigestion, and other ailments. The
ose is from 1 to 2 ounces taken 3 or 4 times
a day.
5121. Infusion of Calumba. Calumba
root, 1 drachm ; boiling water, £ pint. Mace-
rate for 4 hours and strain, adding afterwards
£ ounce of spirit of cinnamon. The dose is
Ik or 2 ounces. It is an excellent tonic, and
is held in high esteem by many eminent phy-
sicians, who employ it in the latter stage of
diarrhffia, bilious intermittent fever, and puer-
peral fever. It is also a good preparation for
allaying the nausea and vomiting which often
accompany pregnancy.
5122. Orange Tonic. Orange peel, 1
ounce ; chamonnle flowers, 1J ounces, and a
little ginger. Put in 1 pint of boiling water.
Add k a wine-glassful of brandy. Take a
wine-glassful at a time.
5 1 23. Spackman's Tonic and Nervine
Mixture. Take A drachm sulphate of quinine,
6-? grains tannin, 1 ounce ginger syrup, 6
drachms fluid extract of valerian, and 2
drachms compound tincture of cardamoms.
Dose, a tea-spoonful 4 times a day.
5124 Tonic Aromatic Mixture. Di-
gest in a cfose vessel for 3 days, agitating
frequently, 1 ounce powdered pale cinchona
bark, 3 drachms powdered caluinba root, 2
drachms bruised cloves, and k ounce iron
filings in 16 fluid ounces peppermint water ;
strain, and add 3 fluid ounces compound
tincture of cardamoms, and 3 fluid drachms
tincture of orange peel. Dose, 1 or 2 table-
spoonfuls or more, 3 or 4 times a day.
5125. Tonic Pills. Extract of gentian,
2 scruples ; sulphate of iron, 16 grains ; sul-
phate of quinine, 10 grains. Mix, and form
into pills. Take 1 pill'three times a day.
5126. Tonic Tincture. Peruvian bark,
bruised, Ik ounces; orange peel, bruised, 1
ounce ; brandy, or proof spirit, 1 pint. Infuse
10 days ; shake the bottle every day. Pour
off the liquor, and strain. Take a tea-spoon-
ful in a wine-glassful of water twice a day,
when you feel languid.
5127. Decoction of Red or Peruvian
Bark. Bruised red bark, 1 ounce ; water, 1
pint. Boil for 10 minutes in a covered vessel,
and strain the liquor while hot.
5128. Infusion of Red or Peruvian
Bark. Red bark, bruised, 1 ounce ; boiling
water, 1 pint. Macerate for 2 hours in a cov-
ered vessel, and strain. This is of great use
in convalescence from acute diseases. It con-
tains a considerable amount of the febrifuge
and strengthening qualities of the quinine.
5129. Dr. Thompson's Bitters. Bal-
inony bark, 1 part ; poplar bark, 5 parts. Boil
in water sufficient to strain 24 gallons of
water from a pound of the bark, to which
add sugar, 3£ pounds ; nerve powder, 2k oun-
ces; while hot, strain, and add best Malaga
wine, 3& gallons ; tincture of meadow-fern, 1
quart. A less quantity may be made by
observing the proper proportions. Dose, from
half to a wine-glassful twice a day. These
bitters are excellent. They are sure to correct
the bile, and create an appetite by giving tone
to the digestive powers.
Medicines which allay
pain. Some act by actually assuaging
pain ; others by inducing sleep ; a third class
give ease by stupefying the senses, or lessen-
ing the susceptibility to pain. Among the
principal anodynes are opium, morphia, cam-
phor, ether, chloroform, nitrous oxide or
laughing gas, <fec.
5131. Anodyne Powder. Opium, k
ounce ; camphor, 3 drachms ; valerian, 1
ounce; cayenne pepper, 1 ounce. Put the
opium and camphor into a close bag; place it
on the oven top to harden. Powder and mix.
Take J tea-spoonful at a time. Most valua-
ble in colic, cramp, and severe pains.
5132. Anodyne Substitute for Opium.
Take 2k drachms each tincture of lupuline
(hops), and tincture of henbane; 5 drachms
camphor water. A tea- spoonful of the mix-
ture may be given every 2 hours in cases
where opium cannot be administered.
5133. Anodyne Cigars. The leaves of
the belladonna (deadly nightshade), 4 parts,
moistened with 1 part tincture of opium, dried
and made into cigarettes of 1 drachm each ;
or the leaves alone, without the addition of
opium, form an effective anodyne in trouble-
some coughs, tooth-ache, sore throat, &c.
Diaphoreti.CS. Medicines that
increase the perspiration. Those that
produce this effect in a powerful degree are
generally called sudorifics. The principal
diaphoretics are warm diluents, as gruel, tea,
barley-water, &e. ; salts of the alkalies, as the
citrates of potassa and soda, acetate and car-
bonate of ammonia, sal-ammoniac, nitre, &c. ;
preparations of antimony, as tartar emetic,
antimonial powder, &c. ; also Dover's powder,
opium, camphor, ipecacuanha, alcohol, wine,
&c. The use of diaphoretics is indicated in
most diseases accompanied by fever and a
dry skin.
5135. Balm Tea. Balm leaves, 1 ounce ;
fine sugar, 1 spoonful ; lemon juice, 1 ounce ;
infused in a pint of boiling water for 20 min-
utes. This forms a useful drink in colds or
fevers. Or it may be made just like common
tea, without the lemon. Let the patient
drink it frequently, especially the last thing
at night, and keep himself warm during the
perspiration.
5136. Herb Drink for Fevers. Infuse
1 ounce each of bairn, elder-flowers, marsh-
mallow, spearmint, and arnica-flowers, with -J-
ounce anise-seed, in boiling water.
5137. Fever Mixture. Mix 2 scruples
nitrate of potash with 3 drachms sweet spirits
of nitre, 3 ounces solution of acetate of am-
monia, 4£ ounces camphor water, and 2
drachms lemon syrup. Dose for an adult,
2 table-spoonfuls every 4 hours. Children in
proportion. • This mixture is excellent whero
the fever affects the head.
5138. Infusion to Produce Sweating.
Infuse 1 ounce pleurisy root for 30 minutes in
li pints water. A tea-spoonful taken warm
as often as the stomach will bear it.
5139. Boneset Tea. Infuse 1 ounce
boneset in 1 pint boiling water for 30 minutes.
4=60
DIURETICS— ELECTUARIES.
A wine-glassful as hot as possible every half
hour will produce a profuse perspiration.
5140. Blessed Thistle Tea. The
leaves of the blessed thistle prepared and
administered in the same "way as boneset (see
last receipt), but not sufficient to produce
nausea, "will have a similar effect.
5141. Febrifuge Wine. The follow-
ing mixture is highly recommended for fever
and ague: quinine, 25 grains; water, 1 pint;
Epsom salts, 2 ounces; brandy, 1 gill; sul-
phuric acid, 12 drops ; loaf sugar, 2 ounces.
Color with tincture of red saunders. Take a
wine-glassful three times a day.
5142. Sweating Drops. Take of cam-
phor, saffron, ipecacuanha, opium, and Yir-
ginia snake-root, i ounce each; Holland
gin, li pints ; infuse 2 or 3 days. A wonder-
fully efficacious cure for fever and ague, after
suitable evacuants. Dr. Beach says he finds
this the best medicine for fever and ague of
any with which he is acquainted. In two
cases this tincture removed the paroxysms
where other remedies failed.
5143. Spirit of Minder erus, or So-
lution of Acetate of Ammonia. Take of
diluted acetic acid, 2 pints; carbonate of
ammonia, in powder, a sufficient quantity.
Add the carbonate of ammonia gradually to
the acid, until it is saturated. This is a valu-
able diaphoretic, and is much employed in
fevers and inflammatory diseases.
5144. Houseleek for Fevers. It is
nsed as a cooling application to sores, ulcers,
&c. The juice mixed with cream is good for
inflammation of the eyes, and erysipelas.
Taken inwardly it is good for fevers, cooling
them down wonderfully. First give a pur-
gative to cleanse the stomach and bowels;
then bruise the houseleek ; adding to the juice
its weight in fine sugar to form a syrup. A
table-spoonful every 2 hours. Drink balm or
catnip tea. This receipt is worth gold.
5145. Sudorific, or Fever Powder.
Crawley root, 1 ounce ; lobelia herb, \ ounce ;
pleurisy root, 1 ounce ; skunk cabbage, ^
ounce. Powder, and mix them together.
Dose, from J to i tea-spoonful every one
hour and a half till perspiration is produced.
It may be given in balm or common tea. In
fevers, inflammations, influenza, and colds,
this powder is invaluable. It subdues irrita-
tion, corrects the pulse, improves respiration,
and promotes sound natural sleep. It is sure,
if properly administered, to arrest a fever.
Keep it in a bottle, well corked.
Di"U.retiCS. Medicines which pro-
mote the secretion of urine. The prin-
cipal diuretics are aqueous fluids, which act
by increasing the watery portion of the blood,
and certain substances which promote the
secretion of urine, by stimulating the kid-
neys. Among the former may be classed
nearly all aqueous liquids, as most of them
produce diuresis, if the skin be kept cool.
Among the latter may be mentioned the ni-
trate, acetate, and bitartrate of potassa ; oils
of juniper, turpentine, cajeput, and copaiba ;
dilute spirit and sweet spirits of nitre; decoc-
tion of common broom, &c.
5147. Diuretic Drops. Tincture of
kino, 4 ounce ; balsam of copaiba, spirits of
turpentine, of each 1 ounce ; sweet spirits of
nitre, 2 ounces ; queen of the meadow, 1
ounce. Mix, and add 1 scruple of camphor.
Take nearly a tea-spoonful in mucilage.
Most valuable for scalding urine, inflamma-
tion of the kidneys, <fec.
5148. Diuretic Infusion. Parsley
seeds, i ounce ; cleavers, £ ounce ; burdock
seeds, £ ounce ; coolwort, £ ounce ; spearmint,
^ ounce ; juniper berries, £ ounce ; linseed, i
ounce; gum arabic, J ounce. Pour upon
these 2 quarts boiling water ; infuse 2 or 3
hours, covering the vessel. Strain, and add
i pint of best gin, 4 ounces of honey, and 3
table-spoonfuls of slippery elm. This is a
most valuable diuretic; it is cooling, allays
all urinary affections, gravel, scalding of
urine, and causes an easy and sufficient flow
of the same.
5149. Diuretic Pills. Calcined Mag-
nesia, 1 drachm; solidified copaiba, 2 ounces;
extract of cubebs, 1 ounce ; oil of turpentine,
4 drops ; oil of juniper, 6 drops ; form into
3-grain pills. Take 1 or 2 a few times a day.
A sovereign remedy for diseases of the kid-
neys, bladder, urethra, gravel, whites, and ve-
nereal complaints.
5150. Buchu Leaves. They are diu-
retic and tonic, and a most valuable remedy
in rheumatism, irritable bladder, gravel, stric-
ture, <fec. They are given in infusion and
tincture. Infuse ^ ounce of leaves in i pint
of boiling water, for 3 or 4 hours. A wine-
glassful for a dose 2 or 3 times a day ; or
from 1 drachm to -J- ounce of the tincture.'
5151. Compound Spirit of Juniper.
Stimulant and diuretic, administered in doses
of 2 to 4 drachms. This spirit, when mixed
with 2 or 3 times its weight of proof spirit,
makes a fair imitation of Holland gin. Take
15 ounces bruised juniper berries, 2 ounces
each of bruised caraway and fennel, 1 gallon
proof spirit, and about 1 quart water. Distill
1 gallon. The wholesale preparation is a
solution of 2 drachms oil of juniper, J drachm
each of the oils of caraway and sweet fennel,
in 5 quarts proof spirit. If not clear, filter
through magnesia.
EleCtliarieS. These are chiefly
mixtures of vegetable substances com-
bined with syrup or honey, so as to be of a
moderate consistence, neither liquid nor solid.
The object of such preparations is to secure a
vehicle by which medicines may be adminis-
tered, so that their taste may be covered
by the mixture with which they are com-
bined.
5153. Aperient Electuary. Cream of
tartar, 1 ounce ; milk of sulphur, 1 ounce ;
sub-borate of soda, 2k drachms; syrup of
ginger, of sufficient quantity to give the re-
quired consistence. The dose is 1 or 2 tea-
spoonfuls at bedtime. This will be found a
mild and excellent laxative, and often is of
great use in uterine obstructions.
5154. Lenitive Electuary. The mode
of preparing this electuary is the following:
Take of the best senna leaves reduced to a
FOMENTATIONS — ALTERATIVES — EMETICS.
fine powder, 4 ounces; pulp of prunes, 1
pound ; pulp of cassia, J pound ; pulp of tam-
arinds, 3 ounces ; molasses, 1$ pints ; essential
oil of caraway, 2 drachms. Boil the pulps
with the molasses to the consistence of honey,
add the senna, and when the mixture is
pearly cold, add the oil of caraway, and,
lastly, mix the compound thoroughly. This
preparation is a mild aperient, suited to consti-
pation from whatever cause. It is admir-
ably suited to children and delicate persons.
United with an equal quantity of flowers of
sulphur, it is an admirable remedy for piles.
Dose, from 1 to 3 tea-spoonfuls at bed-time.
Fomentations, in domestic
practice hot fomentations are, although
a simple, yet a very useful remedy for allay-
ing pain, relieving irritation, relaxing and
removing spasms, and inducing not only
local, but even general perspiration. Cloths
dipped in very hot water, wrung out and in-
stantly applied on the seat of the pain, will be
frequently of very great service. But in
some cases it adds to the efficacy of the appli-
cation to employ substances possessing medi-
cal properties in addition to the mere applica-
tion of heat. In every process of fomentation
there should be two flannels, each ("say) three
yards long, with the ends sewed together, to
admit of the boiling water being wrung out
of them, and the one flannel should be got
ready whilst the other is applied.
5156. Anodyne Fomentation. White
poppy heads, 3 ounces; elder flowers, k
ounce ; water, 3 pints. Boil until the liquor
is reduced to §• of its original quantity, and
strain it; 2 or 3 tea-spoonfuls tincture of
opium or laudanum, and 30 drops tincture of
cayenne, may in some cases be added to it.
This fomentation relaxes spasm, and relieves
acute pain.
5157. Fomentation for Ordinary Oc-
casions. Dried mallows, 1 ounce ; chauio-
mile flowers, dried, k ounce; water, 1 pint.
Boil for i hour, and strain the liquor.
5158. Strengthening Fomentation.
Decoction of oak bark, 2 pints; alum, 3
drachms. Mix. This is a powerful astrin-
gent, and often of great use when applied
to weak parts.
5159. Arnica Fomentation. Flowers
of arnica, 2 ounces ; rue leaves, 1 ounce ;
boiling water sufficient to strain 6 fluid oun-
ces of infusion after an hour's maceration at
nearly boiling temperature. Used in contu-
sions, especially as an application to black
eyes.
5160. Stimulating Fomentation.
Cayenne pepper, 3 ounces ; mustard seed
just bruised, 2 ounces; whiskey, 2 quarts.
vSirnmer all together a few minutes. Excel-
lent external application in cholera, paralysis,
palsy, rheumatism, &c. A less quantity
may be made.
Alteratives. Medicines which effect
.A\^ some alteration in the nature or the
quality of the vital action, and occasion a
change in the habit or constitution, establish-
ing the healthy functions of the body with-
out producing any sensible evacuation by
)erspiration, vomiting, or purging. The pre-
parations of mercury and iodine, when pro-
perly administered, are among the most
isefnl and generally employed alteratives.
5162. Alterative Pills. Lobelia seeds,
2 drachms ; mandrake, 2 drachms ; blue flag,
2 drachms ; blood root, 2 drachms ; cayenne
pepper, 1 drachm ; gum guiacum, 2 drachms ;
extract of dandelion, 6 drachms ; oil of pep-
permint, 3 or 4 drops ; simple syrup to form
'nto pills. Dose, 2 pills twice or thrice a day.
These pills are of great service in bilious and
iver complaints, diseased joints, boils, car-
auncles, cutaneous eruptions, scrofula, syph-
ilis, <fec.
5163. Alterative Syrup. Tincture of
cayenne, J ounce ; tincture of lobelia and
tincture of myrrh, of each 2 ounces ; molasses,
i pound. Mfx. A tea-spoonful 2 or 3 times
a day. Noted for its effectual cure of cuta-
neous sores, boils, indigestion, and some
chronic complaints.
5164. Dandelion Alterative. A use-
ful alterative medicine, especially in cases
where the function of the liver is at fault.
Dose, fluid extract of dandelion, a dessert-
spoonful, twice daily, with or without a little
water.
5165. Blood Maker and Purifier.
Mix k ounce sulphate of manganese with 1
pint water. Dose, a wine-glassful 3 times a
day. This can be used in the place of iron
tonic, or in connection with it.
5166. Pancoast's Alterative and
Tonic Pills. 1 scruple extract of Ignatia
amara (the bean of St. Ignatius), li drachms
bromide of potassa, h drachm saccharine car-
bonate of iron, 1 scruple piperine, and 1 scru-
ple extract of henbane. Make into 60 pills,
and take 2, fifteen minutes after each meal.
Emeti.CS. Medicines which induce '
vomiting. The principal emetics are
ipecacuanha and tartarized antimony, and
their preparations ; and the sulphates of zinc
and copper. Ipecacuanha is usually adminis-
tered in substance or infused in wine. The
use of tartar emetic and antimonial wine is
generally followed by nausea, relaxation of
muscular power and of the circulation. Sul-
phate of zinc acts promptly and energetically,
and its effects cease as soon as ejected from
the stomach ; hence it is employed to eject
poison. Sulphate of copper is more violent
and disagreeable, and its intense metallic
taste is a great objection to its use. The
operation of emetics is powerfully promoted
by drinking copiously of diluents, especially
of warm or tepid water. This latter is itself
an emetic when taken in quantity. Its use
prevents, in a great degree, excessive straining
accompanying vomiting.
5168. Emetic Mixture. Ipecacuanha
wine, k ounce ; water, 1 ounce ; simple syrup,
i ounce. Mix. For a child, 20 drops or
more, every quarter of an hour until vomit-
ing ensues. An adult may take from •£ to 1
ounce.
5169. Eclectic Emetic Powder. Ipe-
cacuanha and lobelia, of each 2 ounces ; blood
4,62
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
root, 1 ounce. Powder, and mix well. Take
half a tea-spoonful every 20 minutes till it
operates.
5170. Simple Emetic. Half a glass of
•warm water, 1 heaping tea-spoonful of salt,
and another of mustard. These materials
are usually to be had at a moment's notice,
and form a very efficient emetic.
Patent and Proprietary
Medicines. The following re-
ceipts embrace a variety of domestic, popu-
lar, and proprietary remedies, and include
many compounds which, without being pro-
prietary, are better known by the names of
the practitioners who have brought them into
prominent notice than by any other title. A
variety of articles not included in this place
are noticed along with other preparations of
the class to which they belong, or under the
names of their proprietors.
5172. Dolby's Carminative. Take
oils of caraway, fennel, and peppermint, each
10 drops ; rub them up with 10 ounces white
sugar aud 5 ounces carbonate or lump mag-
nesia, then add 1J drachms sal-tartar and 2
ounces laudanum. Mix with 3£ pints of wa-
ter.
5173. Kitchener's Peristaltic Persua-
ders. Turkey rhubarb, in powder, 2
drachms ; oil of caraway, 10 drops ; simple
syrup, 1 drachm by weight; mix, and divide
into 40 pills. Dose, 2, 3, or more. From 2
to 4 will generally produce one additional
motion within 12 hours. The best time to
take them is early in the morning.
5174. Barclay's Antibilious Pills.
Extract of colocynth, 2 drachms ; extract of
jalap, 1 drachin ; almond soap, li drachms;
guiacum, 3 drachms; tartarized antimony, 8
grains ; oil of juniper, 4 drops ; oil of cara-
way, 4 drops ; oil of rosemary, 4 drops.
5175. Lee's Antibilious Pills. Take
pulverized jalap, aloes, and rhubarb, each
ounce ; calomel, 3 drachms ; pulverized gam-
boge, 1 drachm ; form the whole into a mass
with shavings of castile soap and syrup ; then
make into pills.
5176. Dover's Powder. Ipecacuanha,
in powder, 1 drachm ; powdered opium, 1
drachm; powdered saltpetre, 1 ounce. All
well mixed. Dose, from 8 to 20 grains.
The TJ. S. Pharmacopoeia directs 1 ounce
sulphate of potassa instead of the saltpetre
(nitrate of potassa) ; in other respects the
formula is the same as the above.
5177. Thompson's "Number Six."
Gum myrrh, 1 pound ; golden seal, 4 ounces ;
put these into a jug, shake several times a
day for 8 days, when it is fit for use. This is
a stimulant and tonic.
5 1 78. Thompson's Composition Pow-
der. Take bayberry, 8 ounces ; ginger, 8
ounces; poplar bark, 4 ounces; white oak
bark, 4 ounces ; cayenne pepper, 3£ ounces ;
cloves, h ounce. Powder and mix intimately.
Dissolve a tea-spoonful in a cup of boiling
water, sweetened. Valuable to remove colds,
influenza, fever, relax, pain in the bowels,
cold extremities. As a sudorific, or for re-
moving morbific matter, the cause of disease,
it is invaluable. "When taken, the patient
should go to bed, and make use of any of
the various appliances for promoting perspi-
ration.
5179. Thompson's Hot Drops. Gum
myrrh, 2 ounces ; cayenne pepper, l| drachms ;
spirit of wine. 1 pint. Put in a bottle, and
shake several times a day for a week. Tako
a tea-spoonful or more in a little warm tea.
It is a fine remedy for rheumatism. It will
relieve the headache by taking a dose, bathing
the head with it, and snuffing it up the nose.
It is good for bruises, sprains, swollen joints
and old sores, <fec., <tc.
5180. Anderson's Scott's Pills. Bar-
badoes aloes, 24 ounces ; colocynth, 1 ounce ;
gamboge, 1 ounce ; Spanish soap, 4 ounces ;
oil of anise, £ ounce ; water, a sufficient
quantity. To be made into 3-grain pills.
5181. Marshall Hall's Dinner Pills.
Take of powdered Barbadoes aloes, soap, and
powdered extract of liquorice, of each equal
parts. Make a mass with molasses, and form
into pills of 4 grains 'each.
5182. White's Gout Pills. Take of
calomel, powdered socotrine aloes, powdered
ipecacuanha, and acetic extract of colchi-
cum, of each 1 drachm. Make a mass with
syrup, and form into 60 pills.
5183. Abernethy's Pills. Take of
powdered socotrine aloes, 48 grains ; pow-
dered ipecacuanha, 20 grains ; extract of
henbane, 48 grains ; blue pill mass, 24
grains. Make a mass with water, and form
into 24 pills.
5184. Triplex Pills. Take of pow-
dered socotriue aloes, 2 ounces ; powdered
scammony, 1 ounce; blue pill mass, 2 oun-
ces ; oil of caraway, 3 drachms. Make a
mass with syrup, and form into pills of 5
grains each.
5185. Peter's Pills. Aloes, jalap, gam-
boge, and scammony, of each 2 drachms ;
calomel, 1 drachm.
5186. Walter's Indian Vegetable
Pills. Socotriue aloes, 1 pound ; powdered
gamboge, 6 ounces; compound extract of
colocynth, castile soap, and Aleppo scam-
mony, of each 3 ounces ; extract of butter-
nut, 2 ounces ; African cayenne, i ounce ;
oil of cloves, 1 drachm. Mix and make into
4-grain pills.
5187. Becquerel's Gout Pills. Mix
together 106 grains sulphate of quinine, 15|
grains extract of digitalis (fox-glove), and
38£ grains of colchicum seeds. Make into
50 pills. Dose, from 1 to 3 daily for several
days in succession.
5188. Health Pills. Pillsalutis. Take
2 drachms socotrine aloes, 1 drachm extract
of henbane, 16 grains extract of nux-vomica,
and 10 grains powdered ipecacuanha. Mix,
and make into 60 pills.
5189. Leake's Pill of Health. Pitt
salutaria. Take 2 drachms calomel, 2
drachms precipitated sulphuret of antimony,
\ ounce powdered gum guiacum, and \ ounce
molasses. Mix, and make into 240 pills.
5190. Thomas' Colocynth and Man-
drake Pills. Take k drachm compound ex-
tract of colocynth, and 3 grains resin of podo-
phyllin. Mix, and make into 12 pills. Dose,
2 at bed-time.
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
463
5191. Farrish's Aloes and Mandrake
Pills, Take 24 grains aloin, 12 grains resin
of podophyllin, and 4 minims oleo-resin of
ginger. Mix, and make into 24 pills. Dose,
as a laxative, 1 pill ; as a purgative, 2 or 3
pills.
5192. Chirayta Pills and Mixture.
Dr. Keece's pills. Extract of chirayta (chi-
retta), 2 drachms ; dried soda, 20 grains ; gin-
ger, 15 grains ; mix, and divide into 30 pills.
Two twice a day. Mixture : Infusion of
chirayta, 8 ounces ; subcarbonate of soda, 1
drachm ; 2 table-spoonfuls 3 times a day.
5193. Bateman's Pectoral Drops.
Compound spirit of aniseed, 16 fluid ounces ;
opium, 1 drachm ; camphor, 1 drachm ; oil of
fennel, 20 drops ; cochineal, 2 drachms.
Or : Proof spirit, 4 gallons ; red saunders, 2
ounces ; digest 24 hours, filter, and add pow-
dered opium, 2 ounces ; camphor, 2 ounces ;
catechu, 2 ounces; oil of aniseed, 4 fluid
drachms; digest for 10 days. (Philadelphia
College of Pharmacy.) The old wine gallon is
here intended.
5194. Glutton's Febrifuge Spirit.
The original formula is : oil of sulphur by the
bell, oil of vitriol and sea salt, of each 1
ounce ; rectified spirit, 3 ounces ; mix, digest
for a month, and distill to dryness.
5195. Glutton's Febrifuge Tincture.
Febrifuge spirit, 8 fluid ounces; angelica
root, serpentary, cardamom seed, of each 1£
drachms; digest and strain. "Water acidula-
ted with these, and sweetened to the taste,
forms a cooling diuretic and diaphoretic julep.
Though never admitted into the Pharma-
copoeia, these preparations are favorites with
some practitioners.
5196. Lartigue's Gout Pills. Com-
pound extract of colocynth, 20 grains; ex-
tract of colchicum, GO grains ; extract of
opium, 1 grain ; mix, and divide into 18 pills.
Dose, one or more, according to their purga-
tive effect.
5197. Baillie's Pills. Compound ex-
tract of colocyuth, Ik drachms; extract of
aloes, li drachms; castile soap, i drachm;
oil of cloves, 15 drops. Make into 38 pills.
3 at bed-time occasionally.
5198. Marseilles Vinegar. Also call-
ed vinalgre de quatre voleurs, or thieves' vine-
gar. Dried tops of large and small wormwood,
rosemary, sage, mint, rue, lavender-flowers,
of each 2 ounces ; calamus root, cinnamon,
cloves, nutmeg, garlic, of each J ounce;
camphor, k ounce; concentrated acetic acid,
2 ouuces ; strong vinegar, 8 pounds. Mace-
rate the herbs, &c., in the vinegar for 2
weeks, strain, press, and add the camphor
dissolved in the acetic acid. It is said that
this medicated vinegar was invented by
four thieves of Marseilles, who successfully
employed it as a disinfectant during a visita-
tion of pestilence.
5199. Collier's Wine of Guinine. Take
disulphato of quinine, 18 grains ; citric acid,
15 grains ; sound orange wine, 1 bottle, or 24
fluid ounces.
5200. Chlorodyne. The composition
of this well known secret remedy has excited
much attention among chemists ; many for-
mulae have been published, but it is difficult
to determine which of them approaches near-
est to the chlorodyne of J. Collis Browne, its
originator. There can be no doubt about tae
three important ingredients, chloroform, mor-
phia, and hydrocyanic acid, nor can there be
about oil of peppermint and molasses. The
question is whether anything else exists in
the compound. Hitherto, of the formulae ',
which have been published, two — one by Dr.
Ogden, the other by Mr. Squire — have at-
tracted most attention. The difference be-
tween these lay essentially in the presence of
Indian hemp and capsicum as indicated by
Ogden, their absence in the formula given by
Squire. But besides this, the proportion of
morphia, as given by the two authorities,
differed greatly. Mr. Edward Smith has re-
cently investigated the question, and pub-
lished the result in the London Pharmaceuti-
cal Journal. He puts the composition of
chlorodyne as follows : Mix together 4 fluid
drachms chloroform, 20 grains muriate of
morphia, 2 fluid drachms rectified ether, 8
minims oil of peppermint, 4 fluid drachms di-
luted hydrocyanic acid, 6 fluid drachms
tincture of capsicum, 1 fluid ounce acacia
mixture, and add 4 fluid ounces molasses.
This does not give as dark a compound as the
original, because the latter contains caramel;
but as this has no medicinal or other value,
he omits it, making up to the required
volume with the molasses. Mr. Smith thinks
there is no Indian hemp, because the alcoholic
extract is soluble in water ; but then there is
capsicum, as, after the chlorofonn and ether
(which also give pungency to the mixture)
have been distilled off, the substance left
behind has a hot, peppery taste. He seems to
have taken much pains with the analysis.
5201. Ogden' s Chlorodyne. The fol-
lowing receipt will furnish a preparation hav-
ing the pharmaceutical properties of chloro-
dyne, according to Dr. Ogdeii : To 8 grains
muriate of morphia and £ fluid drachm water,
add 20 drops perchloric acid of 25° Baume,
and heat until a clear solution is obtained ;
then add £ fluid ounce molasses, previously
warmed to render it fluid ; heat the mixture
and agitate well. TVhen cold, add 1£ fluid
drachms chloroform, 12 drops hydrocyanic
acid, 1 fluid drachm tincture of Indian hemp,
2 drops oil of peppermint, and 1 drop oleo-
resin of capsicum. Mix thoroughly.
5202. Groves' Chlorodyne. The fol-
lowing is an improvement by Mr. Groves, on
the receipt of Dr. Ogden. Take chloroform, 4
drachms; ether, 1£ drachms; oil of pepper-
mint, 8 drops; resin of Indian hemp, 16 grains;
capsicum, 2 grains ; macerate for 2 or 3 days,
and filter. Then dissolve hydrochlorate of
morphia, 16 grains, in 1 ounce of syrup ; add
perchloric acid and water, i drachm each,
assisting the solution by a water-bath ; then,
when cold, add hydrocyanic acid (Scheelc's),
96 drops. Mix the solutions.
5203. Squire's Chlorodyne. Dissolve
8 grains muriate of morphia, and 16 minims
oil of peppermint, in 4 ounces rectified spirit ;
add 4 ounces chloroform and 1 ounce ether ;
next dissolve 2£ ounces extract of liquorice in
17 * ounces syrup, and add 4 ounces molasses.
Mix these 2 solutions together, and add 2
ounces prussic acid.
5204. Chandler's Chlorodyne. Take
8 grains muriate of morphia, i drachm fluid
extract of cannabis indica, 10 drops oil of
4:64=
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES:
peppermint, 15 drops tincture of capsicum, 2
drachms chloroform, and 1 ounce each of 98
per cent, alcohol and pure glycerine. Dose,
10 to 30 drops in a wine-glass of water every
3 hours. This preparation is of a clear green-
ish color.
5205. Horsley's Chlorodyne. The
following formula is the result of an analysis
made by Mr. Horsley. Burnt sugar, 1
drachm; muriate of morphia, i grain; dis-
tilled water, 2 drachms ; .oil of peppermint, 6
minims; dilute prussic acid, 5 minims; tinc-
ture of capsicum, 7 minims ; and chloroform, 1
drachm. Mix. It must be observed that the
water is perhaps an error, as it will not mix
with the chloroform, which will be found on
the bottom of the bottle.
5206. Chlorodyne. Mix together i
fluid ounce chloroform, 90 minims sulphuric
ether, 8 drops oil of peppermint, 8 drops
resin of Indian hemp (cannabis Indica), and
2 drops capsicum; shake the mixture occa-
sionally and allow it to stand for a few days.
Dissolve 16 grains muriate of morphia, by
heat, in 2 drachms water ; when cold, add 65
minims Scheele's hydrocyanic acid, 1 fluid
drachm perchloric acid, and 2 fluid ounces
molasses. Add this gradually to the first
mixture, and then add sufficient molasses
to make the whole measure 4 fluid ounces.
Dose, 30 minims.
5207. Chlorodyne. Mix together 6
fluid drachms chloroform, 1 fluid drachm chlo-
ric ether, i fluid drachm tincture of cayenne
pepper, 2 drops oil of peppermint, 8 grains
muriate of morphia, 24 drops dilute hydro-
cyanic acid, 20 drops perchloric acid, 1 fluid
drachm tincture of Indian hemp, and 1 fluid
drachm molasses. Dose, 20 drops, as a sopo-
rific ; 30 drops to 1 fluid drachm, as an ano-
dyne in cholera or violent paroxysms of
pain. (Cooley.)
5208. Eau M6dicinale d'Husson. It
is prepared, according to Dr. "Williams, from
the juice of colchicum flower with half the
quantity of brandy; mix, and, after standing
a few days, decant into small bottles. But it
was more probably made from the root, ai
prescribed in the followiog formulae :
Dry colchicum, 60 parts; in sherry, 125
parts. 20 drops for a dose. (Paris Codex.)
4 ounces of the fresh root, sliced, macerated
in •} pint of proof spirit. ( Want.)
5209. Bates' Anodyne Balsam. Soap
liniment, 2 parts ; tincture of opium, 1 part.
5210. Delamott's Golden Drops. Mu-
riato of iron, 1 ounce; spirit of sulphuric
ether, 7 ounces ; dissolve and expose to sun-
shine in a closely-stopped bottle till it become
divested of color.
5211. Gregory's Powder. Calcinec
magnesia, 2| ounces; powdered Turkey rhu-
barb, 1 ounce ; powdered ginger, % ounce,
Mix. The above is Dr. Gregory's formula
Some receipts add powdered chamoinile
Rhubarb, 1 ounce; ginger, J ounce; powderet
chamomile, h ounce; magnesia, 2 ounces
Mix. Some druggists prepare it with the
heavy carbonate of magnesia, instead of the
calcined. (Sec No. 5414.)
5212. Black Draught. Infusion o
senna, 10 drachms ; sulphate of magnesia,
drachms; syrup of ginger, 1 drachm; aro
matic spirit of ammonia, 20 drops.
5213. Standert's Bed Mixture. Car-
)onate of magnesia, 4 drachms; powdered
rhubarb, 2 drachms; tincture of rhubarb, li
ounces ; tincture of opium, 1 drachm ; oil oi
aniseed, 24 drops ; essence of peppermint, 30
drops; water, li pints; mix. A popular
emedy for bowel complaints in the west of
England.
5214. Graves' Gout Preventive.
Orange peel, 2 ounces; rhubarb, 1 ounce; hiera
ticra, 2 'ounces; brandy, 1 quart. Digest for
a week.
5215. Elixir of Bromide of Sodium.
Prepare this like elixir of bromide of potas-
sium, substituting bromide of sodium for
jromide of potassium, and omitting the color.
5216. Bacher's Tonic Pills. Alkaline
xtract of black hellebore, 2 drachms ; extract
of myrrh, 2 drachms ; powder of holy this-
tle, 1 drachm; mix, and divide into 4-grain
pills.
5217. Dafiy's Elixir. This is similar
to the compound tincture of senna ; but dif-
"erent makers have their peculiar formulae.
The following is one of them. Avoirdupois
weight seems to be intended. Senna leaves,
f pounds; jalap, aniseed, caraway seed, of
:ach 20 ounces; rectified spirit, 18 pints;
sugar, 5 pounds. Infuse the senna 2 or 3
times in sufficient boiling water to yield, when
strained with pressure, 4 gallons in the whole.
Add to this the tincture made with jalap and
seeds digested with the spirit for a week.
Pour off the clear liquor and add the sugar
and brandy coloring if required.
5218. McLean's Neuralgic Liniment.
Mix together 4 grains extract of belladonna,
6 fluid ounces ammonia water, i fluid ounce
oil of turpentine, i fluid ounce olive oil, and
2 fluid ounces tincture of opium. Apply dur-
ing the paroxysms.
5219. Hayes' Pile Liniment. Melt 1
pint lard to the consistence of honey ; stir in
briskly 1 ounce muriatic acid until thoroughly
incorporated; and add 1 ounce tincture of
opium, 2 ounces oil of turpentine, and 2
drachms camphor.
5220. Graham's Neuralgic Liniment.
Mix together 1 fluid ounce chloroform, 2 fluid
drachms oil of cajcput, In ounces camphor, 12
grains veratrine, and 1£ fluid ounces tincture of
aconite root.
5221. Mexican Mustang Liniment.
Take 2 fluid ounces petroleum, 1 fluid ounce
ammonia water, and 1 fluid drachm brandy.
Mix.
5222. Heyle's Horse Embrocation.
Mix together 1 ounce oil of spike, 1 ounce
ammonia water, 2 ounces oil of camphor, i
ounce oil of origanum, i ounce tincture of
opium, 1 ounce spirits of turpentine, and 2
ounces olive oil.
5223. Barrell's Indian Liniment. Al-
cohol, 1 quart ; tincture of capsicum, 1 ounce ;
oils of origanum, sassafras, pennyroyal, hem-*
lock, of each A ounce, and mix.
5224. Allen's Nerve and Bone Lini-
ment. Take oil of origanum, oil of rose-
mary, oil of amber, oil of hemlock, of each 4
ounces; spirits of turpentine, 2 gallons;
linseed oil, 3 gallons. Mix, and color with
anchusa root.
5225. Glycerine Jelly. Used as an
application to chaps and roughened parts of
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
465
the skin. It may be made of pare glycerine
thickened with tragacanth powder and scented
with otto of roses. An imitation may be pre-
pared in the folio wing manner: Mix \ drachm
good soft soap intimately with 2 drachms
purified honey ; gradually add 5 ounces pale
olive oil, stirring without intermission until
all is taken up. Care must be taken not to
mix in the oil too fast. Finally perfume as
desired.
5226. Glycerine Paste. A stiff glutin-
ous compound, recommended by Dr. Tilt as a
basis for plaster. It is made by boiling 100
or 150 grains common starch in 1 ounce of
glycerine. This is similar to Schacht's plasma.
(See No. 5009.)
5227. King's Cordial. Dissolve in k
pint of proof spirits, Ik drachms each of the
oils of caraway and cinnamon; extract the
stones from 3 pounds of black cherries, and
mash the fruit in a pan; grate 1 nutmeg;
take 2 quarts of Madeira wine, 2 quarts of
brandy, and 1 gallon of syrup; mix all to-
gether, and color with red saunders wood.
5228. Squire's Elixir. Opium, 1 ounce;
camphor. 1 ounce; spirit of aniseed (com-
pound), 4 pints ; tincture of serpentaria, 1
pint; water, 4 pints; tincture of ginger, i
ounce. Some receipts add a little aurum mus-
ivum.
5229. Ward's Essence for the Head-
ache. Spirit of wine, 2 pounds ; roche alum
in fine powder, 2 ounces ; camphor, 4 ounces ;
essence of lemon, i ounce; strong water of
ammonia, 4 ounces; stop the bottle close,
and shake it daily for 3 or 4 days.
5230. Henry's Magnesia. A solution
of Epsom salts is precipitated by one of car-
bonate of potash in the cold ; the precipitate
is well washed, rose water being used for the
last washing; it is then made up while drying
into large or small cubes.
5231. Hill's Balsam of Honey. Bal-
sam of tolu, 2 ounces; styrax, 2 drachms;
opium, \ drachm; honey, 8 ounces; spirit of
wine, 32 fluid ounces.
5232. Battley's Senna Powder. Senna
leaves heated until they become light in color,
reduced to powder, and mixed with some fine-
ly powdered charcoal.
5233. Munro's Cough Medicine.
drachms paregoric with 2 drachms sulphuric
ether and 2 drachms of tincture of tolu.
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful in some warm water.
5234. Griffin's Tincture for Coughs.
Oil of caraway and anise, each 2 drachms;
saffron, | ounce; benzole acid, f ounce;
opium, 5 drachms ; camphor, 4 ounce ; spirit,
6 ounces; honey, 6 ounces. When mixed and
dissolved, color with burnt sugar.
5235. Derbyshire's Patent Embroca-
tion for Preventing Sea-Sickness. Boil
2 ounces opium, 2 drachms extract of hen-
bane, 10 grains mace, and 2 ounces mottled
soap, in 3 pints of water for \ hour. "When
'cold, add 1 quart of rectified spirit and 3
drachms spirit of ammonia.
5236. Papier Fayard et Blayn. This
g reparation is now made officinal in the Paris
odex, under the name of Papier (lit Chimique.
Heat 200 parts olive oil in a capacious dish
over an open fire, until vapors begin to be
given off. Then add gradually, with stirring,
100 parts finely powdered minium (red lead).
As soon as the first effervescence is over,
;ontinue to stir and heat the mixture until it
aegins again to effervesce. Then remove
?rom the fire and stir rapidly, to remove the
white scum on the surface, and at once add
6 parts white wax. This is applied to paper
or muslin with a sponge or brush.
Before spreading on the paper or muslin, it
must have been prepared a week earlier with
the following varnish, to make it impenetra-
ble : olive oU, 100 parts, and garlic, 10 parts,
are heated together over the open fire until
the moisture of the latter is dispelled and
they turn a brown color, after which they are
strained. To this mixture are added 80 parts
oil of turpentine, 40 parts subcarbonate of
iron, and 15 parts carbonate of lead (white
lead) in oil. It is also laid on with a brush
or sponge.
5237. Papier Fayard. Gout paper. Eu-
phorbium, 3 drachms ; cantharides, 6 drachms;
powdered and digested with 4 ounces alcohol;
and 3 drachms Venice turpentine added to
the strained tincture. Fine paper is dipped
into it and dried in the air. Mohr directs 4
drachms cantharides and 1 drachm euphor-
bium to be digested in 5 ounces of highly
rectified spirit; filter, and add 1^ ounces
Venice turpentine previously liquefied with 2
ounces resin. To be spread on the paper
while warm.
5238. Papier Epispastique de V6e.
This is of three strengths, distinguished by
the colors white, green, and red. The com-
position is made by boiling cantharides for an
hour with water, and lard, green ointment, or
lard colored with alkanet ; adding white wax
to the strained fats, and spreading on paper,
silk, or linen. No. 1 is made with 10 ounces
cantharides to 4 pounds of lard ; No. 2 of 1
pound flies to 8 pounds of green ointment ;
and No. 3 of 1J pounds to 8 pounds of
colored lard ; and to each are added 2 pounds
of white wax.
5239. Bateman's Itch Ointment.
Carbonate of potassa, i ounce ; red sulphuret
of mercury, 1 drachm ; hog's lard and flowers
of sulphur, each 11 ounces; bergamot, 30
drops ; rose water, 1 ounce. Mix the potassa
and powders with a little of the lard, and rub
them well together ; then add the remainder
of the lard, previously softened by heat, after-
wards add the rose water, gently warmed.
Stir till cold.
5240. Smith's Itch Ointment. Flow-
ers of sulphur, 2 ounces ; sulphate of zinc, 2
drachms ; powdered hellebore, 4 drachms ;
soft soap, 4 ounces ; lard, 8 ounces. Mix.
5241. Wiegand's Tetter Ointment.
Powder and mix 2 drachms submuriate of
mercury (calomel) with 1 drachm acetate of
lead, and k drachm red precipitate. Make 42
grains of the above powder into an ointment
with 2 drachms of lard or simple cerate.
5242. Wiegand's Tetter Salve. Take
8 grains of the powder in the last receipt,
mix with 20 drops glycerine, 5 grains pow-
dered camphor, \ ounce simple cerate, and 2
drops oil of lemon.
5243. Bailey's Itch Ointment. Sweet
oil, 1 pound ; suet, 1 pound ; root .alkanet, 2
ounces. Melt and macerate until sufficiently
colored, then add powdered nitre,. 3 ounces;
powdered alum, 3 ounces ; powdered sulphate
466
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
of zinc, 3 ounces; powdered vermilion, to
color; oil of aniseed, oil of spike, and oil of
origanum to perfume.
5244. Beddoe's Pills, for gravel, &c.
Carbonate of soda, dried without heat, 1
drachm ; soap, 4 scruples ; oil of juniper, 10
drops ; syrup of ginger, sufficient quantity for
30 pills.
5245. Mathieu's Vermifuge. Tin fil-
ings, 1 ounce ; fern root, £ ounce ; worm-seed,
i ounce; resinous extract of jalap, 1 drachm;
sulphate of potassa. 1 drachm ; honey to form
an electuary. A tea-spoonful every 3 hours
for 2 days; then substitute the following:
jalap, 2 scruples ; sulphate of potassa, 2 scru-
ples; scammony, 1 scruple; gamboge, 10
grains; made into an electuary with honey,
and given in the same dose.
5246. Swaim's Vermifuge. "Worm-
seed, 2 ounces; valerian, rhubarb, pink-root,
white agaric, of each H ounces ; boil in suffi-
cient water to yield 3 quarts of decoction,
and add to it 30 drops oil of tansy, and 45
drops oil of cloves, dissolved in a quart of
rectified spirits. Dose, 1 table-spoonful at
night.
5247. Calvetti's Manna Lemonade.
Dissolve 1 ounce pure mannite in 10 ounces
boiling water, and add sufficient lemon juice
to flavor. To be drunk cold or iced. Man-
nite is a peculiar saccharine principle obtained
in crystalline form from manna.
5248. Bond's Compound Mixture ol
Iron. Take 1J drachms gum myrrh in tears,
6 drops oil of wiutergreen, 2 drops oil of nut-
meg, 2 scruples carbonate of potash, 1 ounce
loaf sugar, £ drachm sulphate of iron, and 7
ounces distilled water. Rub down the myrrh
with the oils, add gradually a portion of the
water, making a milk of myrrh ; then add the
potash and sugar. Dissolve the iron in the
remainder of the water, and mix the two mix-
tures by trituration. To be bottled and wel"
corked directly.
5249. Mialhe's Syrup for Hoarseness.
Take 15 parts syrup of gum-arabic, 5 parts
syrup of tolu, 5 parts maiden-hair, 1 pan
nitrate of potassa, and 1 part cherry-laure'
water. Dose, a table-spoonful in a cup o
sweet balm tea, in short draughts.
5250. Dewees' Carminative. Take \
drachm carbonate of magnesia, 1 drachm
loaf sugar, GO drops tincture of assafsetida, 20
drops tincture of opium, and 1 fluid ounce
water. Dissolve the sugar in half the water
add this to the tinctures previously mixed ii
the bottle. Rub the magnesia with the re
mainder of the water ; then mix together th<
two preparations. Direct the mixture to b<
shaken before used.
5251. Golden Tincture. Take 3 part:
sulphuric ether, 2 parts acetated tincture o
opium, and 1 part compound spirit of lav
endcr.
5252. Golden Tincture. Sulphuri
ether, 1 ounce; laudanum, 1 ounce; chloro
form, i ounce ; alcohol, 1 ounce. Mix. Thi
preparation is extensively used by the German
physicians. Dose, from 3 to 30 drops, accord
ing to circumstances. It makes an excellen
local application in neuralgia and other pain
ful affections.
5253. Napoleon's Pectoral Pills
Ipecacuanha, 30 grains j powdered squills
and ammoniac, of each 40 grains; mucilage
o mix ; divide into 24 pills. It is said that
he above was a favorite remedy with the first
Smperor of Prance for difficulty of breathing,
Bronchitis, and various affections of the
rgans of respiration. Dose, 2 pills night and
morning.
5254. Gedding's Piles Ointment.
Carbonate of lead, 4 drachms ; sulphate of
morphia, 15 grains; stramonium ointment, 1
ounce ; olive oil, sufficient to make into an
ointment.
5255. Ditchett's Remedy for Piles.
permaceti ointment, 8 ounces; powdered
alls, 1 ounce; powdered opium, 1 drachm;
solution of diacetate of lead, 1£ ounces. Mix
well.
5256. Brown's Bronchial Troches.
Take 1 pound pulverized extract of liquorice,
LJ pounds pulverized sugar, 4 ounces pulver-
zed cubebs, 4 ounces pulverized gum-arabic,
and 1 ounce pulverized extract of conium
(hemlock). Mix.
5257. Roche's Embrocation, or
Whooping Cough Liniment. Olive oil,
8 ounces ; oil of amber, 4 ounces ; oil of
cloves, a sufficient quantity to give it a strong
scent. Mix. Rubbed on the chest it stimu-
lates the skin ; it is useful in general for the
coughs of children ; in whooping-cough, how-
ever, it ought not to be used for the first ten
days of the disease. This liniment is under-
stood to be the same as the celebrated embro-
cation of Roche.
5258. Dupuytren's Pills. Take 120
grains powdered guaiacum, 4 grains corrosive
chloride of mercury (corrosive sublimate),
and 5 grains powdered opium ; make into 40
pills.
5259. Anodyne Necklaces. Beads
formed of the root of henbane, and used as
necklaces, to allay the pain of teething.
5260. Digestive, or Live-long Candy.
Powdered rhubarb, 60 grains ; heavy magne-
sia, 1 ounce ; bicarbonate of soda, 1 drachm ;
finely-powdered ginger, 20 grains ; cinnamon
powder, 15 grains; powdered white sugar, 2
ounces ; mucilago of tragacanth, sufficient
quantity ; beat together and divide into
square, flat cakes of 20 grains each.
5261. Cholagogue. Quinine, 20 grains ;
Peruvian bark, 1 ounce ; rhubarb, 1 ounce ;
sulphuric acid, 15 or 20 drops, or 1 scruple
tartaric acid; brandy, 1 gill, and water to
make 1 pint. Dose, 2 spoonfuls every 2 hours
in absence of fever.
5262. Malone's Mixture for a Cough
or Cold. Take 1 tea-cupful of flaxseed, soak
all night. In the morning put in a kettle 2
quarts water, 1 handful of liquorice root (split
up), i pound good raisins (cut in half). Boil
them until the strength is thorough^ ex-
tracted, then add the flaxseed, which has
been previously soaked. Let all boil about
half an hour more, watching and stirring,
that the mixture may not burn. Then strain
and add lemon-juice and sugar to taste. Take
any quantity, cold, through the day, and half
a thimbleful, warm, at night. The above is a
most excellent receipt.
5263. Chapman's Copaiba Mixture.
Make a mixture of £ ounce copaiba, £ fluid
ounce sweet spirits of nitre, 2 drachms pow-
dered acacia, 1 drachm sugar, 4 fluid ounces
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
467
distilled water, 2 fluid drachms compound
spirit of lavender, and 1 fluid drachm tincture
of opium. Dose, a table-spoonful 3 times a
day. A specific remedy for gonorrhoea.
5264. Morton's Copaiba Mixture.
Take i ounce each copaiba and powdered cu-
bebs, 2 drachms each acacia and sugar, 7 fluid
ounces water, and -j- fluid ounce camphorated
tincture of opium. Make into a mixture.
Dose, a table-spoonful every 3 hours. An
efficacious remedy for obstinate gonorrhoea.
5265. Jackson's Pectoral Syrup.
Macerate 1 drachm sassafras pith and 1
ounce acacia in 1 pint water for 12 hours;
add 21 ounces sugar, dissolve the sugar in it
without heat, filter, and then add 8 grains
muriate of morphia. Dose, 1 tea-spoonful
every 3 hours.
5266. Ayer's Wild Cherry Expecto-
rant. Mix together 3 grains acetate of mor-
phia, 2 fluid drachms tincture of blood-root,
3 fluid drachms each antimonial wine and
ipecacuanha wine, and 3 fluid ounces syrup
of wild cherry bark. Dose, 1 tea-spoonful in
catarrh, bronchitis, and influenza.
5267. Ayer's Cherry Pectoral. The
following receipt is said to be somewhat near
to, if not exactly identical with the receipt after
which this well known article is compounded :
Take of syrup of wild cherry, 6 drachms ;
syrup of squills, 3 drachms; tincture of
blood-root, 2 drachms; sweet spirits of nitre,
2 drachms ; antimonial wine, 3 drachms ;
wine of ipecacuanha, 3 drachms ; simple
syrup, 1J ounces; acetate of morphine, 2
grains. Mix, and add oil of bitter almonds,
2 drops ; dissolved in alcohol, 1 drachm.
5268. Donovan's Mixture of Cyanide
of Potassium. Mix together 1 grain cya-
nide of potassium, 3j fluid ounces distilled
water, and £ fluid ounce lemon syrup. Dose,
a table-spoonful every 2 hours. Useful to
check vomiting, and allay cough ; and, in
much smaller doses, for whooping cough in
children.
5269. Renault's Pectoral Paste.
Flowers of mallow, flowers of cudweed,
flowers of coltsfoot, and flowers of red
P°PP.V> 1 ounce of each ; boil in a quart
of water, strain, then add 30 ounces of gum-
arabic, 20 ounces of white sugar, and 2
drachms tincture of tolu ; dissolve, strain,
and evaporate to the proper consistence.
5270. Dennis* Patent Anti-spasmod-
ic Tincture. Take 1 ounce each tincture
of scullcap, valerian, myrrh, and capsicum;
2 ounces tincture of lobelia; a little soda;
and sufficient water.
5271. Goitre Jelly. Better known,
perhaps, under the French name GcUe pour
le Goitre. Dissolve 1 ounce white soap in 2£
ounces of proof spirit by a gentle heat ; and
add to it, while still warm, a warm solution of
5 drachms iodido of potassium in 2£ ounces
proof spirit. A few drops of any fragrant
and essential oil may be added.
5272. Mettauer's Aperient Solution.
Take of socotrino aloes, 2i ounces; super-
carbonate of soda, 6 drachms; water, 4 pints;
compound spirits of lavender, 2 ounces.
After digesting 14 days, the clear liquor
may be either decanted or allowed to re-
main. Age is said to improve both the pow-
ers and taste of the solution. The common
dose is 1 drachm, which may be increased, if
necessary, to an ounce. It is recommended as
a valuable remedy in most forms of constipa-
tion, taken soon after meals.
5273. Coxe's Hive Syrup. Put 1
ounce each squills and Seneca snake-root into
1 pint water ; boil down to one-half and strain.
Then add ^ pound clarified honey containing
12 grains tartrate of antimony. Dose for a
child, 10 drops to 1 tea-spoonful, according to
age. An excellent remedy for croup.
5274. Bateman's Sulphur "Wash.
Break 1 ounce sulphur, and pour over it 1
quart of boiling water; allow it to infuse for
12 or 14 hours, and apply it to the face 2
or 3 times a day, for a few weeks. This ap-
plication is equally useful in removing that
roughness of the skin which generally suc-
ceeds pimples.
5275. Allcock's Porous Plaster.
The only difference between this plaster and
ordinary adhesive plasters is, that rubber is
used in the place of lead plaster. It is a good
addition, and very generally recognized by
makers of adhesive plasters. Take rubber, 1
pound ; pitch, i pound ; thus, i poimd ; and
capsicum, 30 grains. The plaster, as offered
for sale, is spread upon muslin or linen, in
which small holes have been punched out,
allowing vent for perspiration, and affording
increased flexibility. These plasters adhere
very firmly, frequently requiring the applica-
tion of heat (by means of a hot towel or
warm flat-iron), for their removal. The skin
may be cleansed after the removal of tho
plaster, by rubbing with sweet oil, until the
remains of the plaster are dissolved ; wiping
it off, and washing with warm water and soap.
5276. Poor Man's Plaster. Take
bees'- wax, 1 ounce ; tar, 3 ounces ; resin, 3
ounces. To be melted together and spread
on paper or muslin.
5277. Universal Plaster. A plaster
is officinal in several of the European Phar-
macopeias, under different names, which ap-
pears to be identical with Keyser's Universal
Plaster, which is sold extensively in this
country as a nostrum. The following is the
formula of the Prussian Pharmacopoeia: Take
of red-lead, in ve^ fine powder, 8 ounces ;
olive oil, 16 ounces. Boil them in a proper
vessel with constant agitation until the whole
has assumed a blackish-brown color, then
add yellow wax, 4 ounces ; and after this
has been melted and well mixed, add 2
drachms camphor, previously dissolved in a
little olive oil. Pour it out into suitable
boxes, or into paper capsules, to be cut into
square cakes when cold.
5278. Devil Plaster. Cases of severe
wounds are said to have healed without sup-
puration after 17 or more days by the use of
this plaster. It has also been successfully
applied to fractures and tumors. Take 15
drachms black pitch, 15 drachms dry resin,
2h drachms dried earth-worms in powder, 8
drachms essential oil of turpentine, and 1
scruple crude alum. Mix well. This plaster
was much used by an old surgeon of Morello,
and by his sons, for the cure of wounds with-
out the loss of substance. The composition,
which they kept secret, is now published to
the world by M. Escorihuela. He obtained
the secret from one of the heirs.
468
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
5279. "Wallace's Pills. Take socotrine
aloes, scammony, arid soap, all in powder,
blue mass and compound extract of colocynth,
1 scruple each, to make 20 pills.
5280. Canada Liniment. Take water
of ammonia, olive oil, oil of turpentine, and
alcohol, of each 1 ounce ; oil of peppermint, i
ounce. Mix.
5281. St. John Long's Liniment.
"White and yolk of 1 egg; oil of turpentine, 6
ounces ; acetic acid, 1 ounce ; oil of lemon,
12 drops ; and rose-water, 5 ounces. Mix.
5282. Brodie's Liniment. Take of sul-
phuric acid, 1 drachm; olive oil and oil of
turpentine, of each 1 ounce. Add the acid
gradually to the olive oil, stirring it in a mor-
tar ; when cool, add the oil of turpentine and
mix.
5283. Good Old Samaritan Liniment.
Mix together 2 gallons alcohol, 12 ounces oil
origanum, 4 ounces oil hemlock, and 2 oun-
ces each of oil of cedar, balsam of fir, spear-
mint, balsam of life (see No. 5112), oil of
sassafras, oil of wintergreen, spirits of turpen-
tine, and sulphuric ether. Mix.
5284. Physic's Issue Ointment.
Powdered cantharides, ^ ounce ; rose water, 2
fluid ounces; tartar emetic, 15 grains. Apply
heat and evaporate the rose-water one-half;
strain, and add olive oil, 3 ounces; white wax,
li ounces; spermaceti, 1 ounce. Mix, and
apply a gentfo heat until all the water has
been driven off. When the manipulations
have been conducted with care, the cerate is
light in color.
5285. Beach's Black Plaster or Heal-
ing Salve. Take of olive oil, 3 quarts;
common resin, 3 ounces; bees'-wax, 3 ounces.
Melt these articles together, and raise the oil
almost to boiling heat; then gradually add of
pulverized red lead 2h pounds, if in the sum-
mer; if in the winter, J pound less. In a
short time after the lead is taken up by the
oil, and the mixture becomes brown or a shi-
ning black, remove from the fire, and, when
nearly cold, add i ounce pulverized camphor.
5286. M'KenzLe's Ointment. Powder-
ed sulphate of zinc, 4 ounces; liquid storax, 1
ounce; melted lard, 16 ounces. Mix by means
of heat and triturate over a water-bath for
about an hour. A useful application for tetter
and scald-head. Apply night and morning,
first washing the part with Castile soap and
warm water.
5287. Conklin's Salve. Take resin, 12
ounces ; bees'-wax, mutton suet, and tallow,
of each 1 ounce. Melt together, strain the
mixture through muslin, and work into rolls
in a bath of cold water.
5288. Newell's Compound Tar Oint-
ment. Lard and mutton suet, of each 12
ounces; tar, 6 ounces; bees'-wax, 3 ounces;
powdered black hellebore, 4 drachms; melt
and strain, then add flowers of sulphur, 4
ounces. Used for tetters, salt rheum, itch, <fcc.
5289. Turner's Cerate. Take of sweet
oil, 2 pounds ; yellow wax, carbonate of zinc,
powdered, of each 1 pound. Mix at a low
heat.
5290. Allison's Tobacco Ointment for
Gathered Breasts. Tobacco leaves (fresh
and sliced'), 10 ounces ; dilute acetic acid, 4
pints; basilicon ointment (see No. 4964), 13
ounces. Boil the tobacco in the acid, strain
and evaporate the decoction over a warm bath
to 4 fluid ounces; add this to the basilicon
ointment, heated, and stir the whole together
until cold. Apply spread upon linen or soft
kid skin.
5291 . Allison's Acetated Ointment of
Tobacco. Tobacco leaves, sliced, 10 ounces ;
cider vinegar (or officinal dilute acetic acid), 4
pints; basilicon ointment (see No. 4964), 13
ounces. Boil the tobacco in vinegar to 1 pint,
strain, reduce in a water-bath to 6 fluid oun-
ces, and add this fluid extract to the melted
ointment, stirring constantly till it is cool.
A fine remedy for gathered breasts.
5292. Parrish's Compound Ointment
of Tobacco. Basilicon ointment (see No.
4964), 13 ounces troy ; powdered camphor, 29
drachms; extract of belladonna, 2 ounces;
fluid extract of tobacco (made as in the above
formula), 6 ounces. Dissolve the extract of
belladonna in the fluid extract of tobacco and
add to the melted ointment, in which^ the
camphor should be previously dissolved. Stir
constantly till cool. Dr. Parrish has stated,
in the New Jersey Medical Keporter, that he
uses this ointment in nearly every case of
mammary abscess, with entire satisfaction.
5293. Mege's Rheumatic Ointment.
Take 160 parts lard, 6 parts each of the ex-
tracts of opium, belladonna, and cinchona, 7
parts ammonia water.
5294. Mitchell's Ointment of Three.
Mix together equal parts of tar ointment,
sulphur ointment, and red oxide of mercury
ointment.
5295. Berthold's Chilblain Wash, Boil
for 15 minutes 1J ounces bruised nut-galls in
i pint water, and strain. Apply to the chil-
blains 2 or 3 times a day. Tannic acid dis-
solved in glycerine has a very similar effect,
but in a neater form for application.
5296. Lapis Divinus. This preparation,
called also cuprum aluminatum, is the picrre
divine of the French codex. It is made by
mixing in powder, 3 ounces each of sulphate
of copper, nitrate of potassa, and alum ; heat-
ing the mixture in a crucible so as to produce
watery fusion; then mixing in 1 drachm pow-
dered camphor ; and finally pouring out the
whole on an oiled stone to congeal. The mass,
when cold, is broken into pieces, and kept in
a well-stopped bottle. "WTien this preparation
is used as an eye lotion, a filtered solution is
made, of the average strength of 30 grains to
a pint of water.
5297. Lapis Miraculosus. Fuse to-
gether sulphate of copper, 3 parts; sulphate
of iron, 6 parts; verdigris and alum, of each 1
part; sal-ammoniac, i part. It is used for ul-
cers only.
5298. Biett's Solution. This is a solu-
i tion of 1 grain of arseniate (not arseuite) of
ammonia in 1 troy ounce of water. It is not
as safe a preparation as either Fowler's or
! Pearson's solution, owing to the ready decora-
' position of the ammonia salt.
5299. Pearson's Arsenical Solution.
This is an aqueous solution of arsenite of soda,
; containing 1 grain of the salt in a fluid
! ounce.
5300. Sampson's New York Pills.
The li grain pills consist of powdered coca,
25; extract of coca, 30; powdered iron, 35
parts.
PATENT AND PEOPEIETAET MEDICINES.
469
5301. Oil of Stone. Take crude Amer- 1
lean petroleum, and Barbadoes petroleum,
of each 2 pints ; oil of turpentine, 6 pints.
5302. Chelsea Pensioner. Take pow-
dered rhubarb, 2 drachms ; creain of tartar, 1
ounce ; guaiacum, 1 drachm ; sulphur, 2 oun-
ces ; 1 nutmeg grated fine ; clarified honey,
16 ounces. Mix. Dose, 2 tea-spoonfuls night
and morning. A very good remedy for chronic
rheumatism.
5303. Indian Cathartic Pills. Keduce
to a fine powder, 1 ounce each aloes and
gamboge ; J ounce each mandrake, blood-root,
and myrrh; 1£ drachms camphor {see No.
4358) and cayenne ; with 4 ounces ginger.
Mix thoroughly and make into ordinary-sized
pills with thick mucilage. Dose, 2 to 4 pills.
5304. Turlington's Balsam is much
like the compound tincture of benzoin of the
Pharmacopoeia of the TJ. S., though it is some-
what more complicated. To make it, take
benzoin, 12 ounces; liquid storax, 4 ounces;
balsam of Peru, 2 ounces ; myrrh and aloes,
each 1 ounce ; balsam of tolu and extract of
liquorice, each 4 ounces ; angelica root, J
ounce ; alcohol, 8 pints. Digest for 10 days,
and strain.
5305. Thibault's Balsam. Myrrh,
aloes, and dragon's blood, of each 1 drachm ;
flowers of Samt John's wort, 1 handful;
spirit of wine, | pint; Canada balsam, 1
ounce. Digest the flowers in the spirit for 3
days, then express the liquor and dissolve the
other ingredients therein. To heal cuts and
wounds, and to sto^ bleeding. Internally
diuretic, in doses of 1 to 2 tea-spoonfuls;
given in gonorrhoea.
5306. Locatelle's Balsam. Yellow
resin, olive oil, and Venice turpentine, of each
1 pound ; shavings of red saunders wood, 1
ounce. Boil to the consistence of a thin
ointment, and strain.
Or : Yellow wax, 4 ounces ; olive oil and
Venice turpentine, of each 1 pound ; alkanet
root, 2 ounces ; as last. Used as a pectoral
in coughs and colds. Dose, £ to 1 tea-spoon-
ful mixed with the same quantity of conserve
5307. Bell's Gargle. Take of pure
borax, 2 drachms ; yeast and honey, of each
k ounce ; boiling water, 7 ounces. Mix.
5308. Mrs. Wheeler's Nursing Syrup.
Mix together 35 ounces sugar, 4 ounces lime-
water, -j ounce aqueous extract of podophyl-
lin, 4 ounces fluid extract of poppy, and 1
drachm oil of anise in 2 ounces rectified spirit.
The aqueous extract of podophyllin is of the
same strength as the ordinary fluid extracts,
16 troy ounces to the pint. The above syrup
will be found to contain about 2 drops fluid
extract of poppy in each tea-spoonful.
5309. Mrs'. Wheeler's Worm Confec-
tion. Triturate to a fine powder, 1 drachm
mild chloride of mercury and 10 drachn*s
sugar; add 25 ounces sugar and 6 drachms
santonin; mix all together and make into 360
tablets. Each tablet will therefore contain
-£ grain of calomel and 1 grain santonin.
5310. Brodie's Decoction of Pareira
Brava. Take £ ounce bruised pareira root,
and 3 pints boiling water ; boil down gently
to 1 pint, and filter. Dose, 1 wine-glassful
every 2 hours. An excellent remedy for
chronic inflammation of the bladder.
5311. Hufeland's Diuretic Drops.
Take £ fluid drachm oil of juniper, and 3 fluid
drachms each sweet spirits of nitre and
tincture of digitalis. Dose, 30 drops every 3
hours.
5312. Stephens' Infusion of Cayenne
Pepper and Salt. Macerate | ounce pow-
dered cayenne pepper, and 1 drachm chloride
of sodium (table salt) for 1 hour in 8 fluid
ounces each boiling vinegar and boiling water.
Filter. Dose, 1 table-spoonful every 2 hours.
This has been administered with great success
in malignant scarlet fever ; used both inter-
nally and as a gargle.
5313. Magendie's Acid Solution of
Veratria. Dissolve 1 grain veratria in 2
fluid ounces distilled water and 5 drops aro-
matic sulphuric acid. Dose, 1 tea-spoonful,
in gouty affections.
5314. Ryan's Gleet Powder. Take 2
scruples powdered ergot, 1 ounce powdered
cubebs, £ drachm powdered cinnamon, and 1
drachm sugar. Make into 8 powders. Dose,
1 powder 3 times a day, for leucorrhcea and
gleet.
5315. Channing's Mixture. Dissolve
3£ grains iodide of potassium in 1 fluid ounce
distilled water; then add 4i grains red iodide
of mercury. Dose, from 2 to 5 drops, in cases
of secondary symptoms, and obstinate skin
diseases.
5316. Thomas's Cathartic Pills.
Take J drachm compound extract of colo-
cynth, and 3 grains resin of podophyllin.
Make into 12 pills. Dose, 1 or 2 at bed-time.
1 pill acts as a laxative; 3 as a free pur-
gative.
5317. Parrish's Cathartic Pills. Take
24 grains aloin, 12 grains resin of podophyllin,
and 4 minims oleo-resin of ginger. Make
into 24 pills. Dose, the same as directed in
the last receipt.
5318. Becquerel's Anti-Gout Pills.
Take 2 drachms sulphate of quinine, 15 grains
alcoholic extract of digitalis, and 2 scruples
acetic extract of colchicum. Make into 50
pills. Dose, 1 pill every 3 hours.
5319. Butternut Pills. Take £
drachm extract of butternut, 1 scruple pow-
dered jalap and 10 grains soap. Make into
15 pills. Dose, 3 pills, and, if these do not
operate, administer 2 more. Butternut is
highly recommended as a cathartic in fevers,
dysentery, &c.
5320. Chapman's Peristaltic Persua-
ders. Take 1 drachm powdered rhubarb, 10
grains powdered ipecacuanha, and 10 drops
oil of caraway. Make up with sufficient pow-
dered acacia into 20 pills. Dose, 2 pills at
bed-time, in obstinate constipation.
5321. Composition Powder. Finely
pulverize 2 pounds bayberry bark, 1 pound
hemlock bark, 1 pound ginger, 2 ounces cay-
enne pepper, and 2 ounces cloves. Mix them
together. This is an excellent remedy for
weak stomach, dyspepsia, <fec. Put i tea-
spoonful of the mixture with a tea-spoonful
of sugar into a cup of boiling water. After
standing for a few moments, drink the con-
tents.
5322. lie Grqs's Itch Ointment. Take
of iodide of potassium, 4 drachm avoirdupois ;
lard, 1 ounce ; mix. Cleanly harmless, and
effective.
4.7O
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
5323. Stokes' Liniment. The formula
here given for this preparation is the one
adopted by the Maryland College of Phar-
macy, and is believed to be as originally pre-
scribed by Dr. Stokes. Take 3 fluid ounces
oil of turpentine, -J- fluid ounce strong acetic
acid, the yolk of 1 egg, 3 fluid ounces rose-
water, and 1 fluid drachm oil of lemon.
5324. Mother's Cordial. Take 4 oun-
ces each of starwprt (helonias dioica), high
cranberry bark (viburnum opulus), and blue
cohosh (caulophyllum thalictroides), and 1
pound of partridge-berry (niitchella repens).
Bruise or grind the ingredients, and macerate
for 3 days with enough strong alcohol to
cover ; then displace from them with more
alcohol 3 pints of tincture, which are set
aside, and the ingredients exhausted with hot
water until it passes tasteless. Add 2 pounds
sugar and evaporate with a gentle heat to 5
pints ; then mix with the 3 pints of tincture
and flavor with sassafras.
5325. Wyndham's Pills. Gamboge, 3
ounces; aloes, 2 ounces; Castile soap, 1
ounce ; nitre, k ounce ; extract of cow-
parsnip, 1 ounce. In pills of 5 grains each.
(Lee.)
5326. Anderson's Pills. Barbadoes
aloes, 24 ounces ; soap, 4 ounces ; colocynth,
1 ounce ; gamboge, 1 ounce ; oil of aniseed, k
fluid ounce. Mix, and divide into pills of 3
grains each.
5327. Morrison's Pills. No. 1 consists
of equal parts of aloes arid cream of tartar ;
No. 2 consists of 2 parts of gamboge, 3 of
aloes, 1 of colocynth, and 4 of cream of tartar,
made into pills with syrup.
5328. Ayer's Sarsaparilla. Take 3
fluid ounces each of alcohol, fluid extracts of
sarsaparilla and of stillingia; 2 fluid ounces
each fluid extracts of yellow-dock and of
podophyllin ; 1 ounce sugar, 90 grains iodide
of potassium, and 10 grains iodide of iron.
This is from a receipt given by Dr. Ayer him-
self.
5329. Henderson's Lotion for Corns.
Take tincture of iodine, -J- ounce ; iodide of
iron, 12 grains; chloride of antimony,
ounce. Pare the corn, and apply with a
camel's-hair pencil. This lotion has been
much commended for destroying corns.
5330. Velpeau's Black Caustic. Tri-
turate in a porcelain mortar 1 ounce' powdered
liquorice root, and add sulphuric acid in small
quantities until a mass is obtained neither
too hard nor too liquid. This preparation
forms a well-marked hard black scab.
5331. Jarave Spanish. Pour 4 gallons
of boiling water on 2 pounds Eio $"egro sarsa-
parilla, 8 ounces powdered guaiacum bark, 4
ounces each of rasped guaiacum wood, anise
seed, and liquorice root, 2 ounces of bark of
mezereon root, 2 pounds of molasses, and 12
bruised cloves. Shake it thrice a day, and
keep it in a warm place. "When fermentation
has set in, it is fit for use. Dose, a small
tumblerful.
5332. Bouyer's Syrop de Lait lodique.
Take cow's milk 200 parts; cane sugar, GO
parts; iodide of potassium, £ part; and a
Uttle soda. Mix, and evaporate to 100 parts.
5333. Cephalic Snuff. Dried asarabacca
leaves, 3 parts; marjoram, 1 part; lavender
flowers, 1 part ; rub together to a powder.
5334. Boeli's Cephalic Snuff consists
of 2 drachms valerian, 2 drachms snuff, 3
drops oil of lavender, 3 drops oil of marjoram;
mix. This is said to relieve the eyes as well
as the head.
5335. Badway's Beady Belief, ac-
cording to Peckolt, is an ethereal tincture of
capsicum, with alcohol and camphor.
5336. Badway's Benovating Besolv-
ent. A vinous tincture of ginger and carda-
mom, sweetened with sugar. (Hager and
Jacobsen.}
5337. Swedish Essence of Life is
made in this country, under various names.
As usually made by apothecaries, it is a tinc-
ture prepared from 4 parts aloes, 1 each of
agaric, rhubarb, zedoary, gentian, myrrh, and
theriac, with 100 to 120 parts dilute alcohol.
The medicine manufacturers usually substi-
tute cheaper articles for the high-priced
saffron and rhubarb. (See No. 5365.)
5338. Walker's Jesuits' Drops. Bal-
sam of copaiba, 6 ounces; gum guaiacum, 1
ounce; Chio turpentine, \ ounce ; subcarbonate
of potash, ^ ounce ; cochineal, 1 drachm ; rec-
tified spirit, 1 quart.
5339. Molinari's Bemedy for Sea-
Sickness. Digest for 12 hours in If Imperial
pints of wine vinegar, -J- ounce each of rue,
thyme, mint, rosemary, absinthe, turmeric,
and green walnut rind; \ ounce annatto; •§•
ounce pearlash; and 1 poppy -head. After
digestion boil for half an hour; then strain
through linen ; in this decoction are moistened
or dipped some 4 or 5 strips of filtering paper
7 or 8 inches long, and then dried ; upon one
side of these strips some light stuff is fastened
by the corners and some loose wadding placed
inside. Strings are next fastened to the band-
age and it is then tied around the body so as
to cover the region of the heart. This pre-
ventive of sea-sickness has been patented in
England.
5340. Bedwood's Nervine Balsam.
Melt together 4 ounces oil of mace and 4
ounces beef marrow. Dissolve in 4 drachms
alcohol, 2 drachms each oil of rosemary and
balsam of tolu, and 1 drachm each of camphor
and oil of cloves. Mix all together. A good
liniment in rheumatism.
5341 . Chaussier's Obstetric Ointment.
Extract belladonna, 2 -drachms; water and
lard, each 2 drachms. Mix well.
5342. Dutch Drops, or Haerlem
Drops. There is considerable difference in
the ingredients and quality of these long-cele-
brated drops ; but the most common prepara-
tion, perhaps, is made according to the follow-
ing formula : Take balsam of turpentine, 2
ounces; oil of turpentine, 10 ounces. Mix.
The following is also one of the imitations of
it made in this country : , Linseed oil, 1 quart ;
resin, 2 pounds ; sulphur, 1 pound ; boil to-
gether over a slow fire ; when combined re-
move from the fire, and add 1 pint oil of tur-
pentine, and 50 drops liquor of ammonia ; stir
well together and bottle. The genuine drops
are the residuum of the rectification of oil of
turpentine. Dutch drops are of course stimu-
lant and diuretic in their therapeutical effects;
but they have been regarded by the common
people as possessed of many other virtues, and
have been much applied to wounds and other
external injuries of the surface.
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
4,71
5343. Russia Salve. Take equal parts
of yellow wax and sweet oil, melt slowly,
carefully stirring; when cooling, stir in a small
quantity of glycerine. Good for all kinds of
wounds, &c.
5344. James' Oil of Gladness. Take
oil of hemlock, 1 ounce ; linseed oil, 1 quart.
5345. Green Mountain Salve. Take
2 pounds resin, i pound Burgundy pitch, i
pound bees'-wax, J pound mutton tallow;
melt them slowly. "When not too warm, add
1 ounce oil hemlock, 1 ounce balsam fir, 1
ounce oil origanum, 1 ounce oil of red cedar,
1 ounce Venice turpentine, 1 ounce oil worm-
wood, £ ounce verdigris. The verdigris must
be very finely pulverized and mixed with the
oils, then add as above and work all in cold
water until cold enough to roll. This salve
has no equal for rheumatic pains or weakness
in the side, back, shoulders, or any place where
pain may locate itself. "Where the skin is
broken, as in ulcers, bruises, <fcc., use without
the verdigris.
5346. Keating's Cough Lozenges.
These are said to be composed of lactucariurn,
2 drachms ; ipecacuanha, 1 drachm ; squills,
£ drachm ; extract of liquorice, 2 drachms ;
sugar, 6 ounces. Made into a mass with
mucilage of tragacanth, and divided into
20-grain lozenges.
5347. Milburn's Mixture. Precipita-
ted prepared chalk, loaf sugar, and gum-ara-
bic, of each 2 drachms ; green mint water, 4i
ounces ; laudanum, 10 minims ; spirits of
lavender, 2 drachms; simple syrup, li oun-
ces ; tincture of kino, 1 ounce. Mix. Useful
in loose bowels in children, and can be given
to them after each evacuation, regardless of
number. Dose, from i to 1 table-spoonful.
Shake the mixture well each time before
using it.
5348. Bicord's Aromatic "Wine. Take
rue, sage, hyssop, lavender, absinth, rose-
leaves, thyme, and elder flowers, of each 4
ounces. Digest for 2 weeks in 9 pints claret.
Then add tannic acid, alum, wine of opium,
of each 9 ounces.
5349. Beyran's Wash. Dissolve chlo-
ride of zinc in 100 times its weight of pure
water. This solution is used as a wash for
chancres, and spontaneously or artificially
opened buboes that . are extending both in
size and depth, and show no signs of cicatri-
zation. It is applied twice a day by means
of lint moistened with it. As soon as the vi-
tality of the parts becomes favorably modi-
fied, Dr. Beyran replaces this wash by Ricord's
wine of cinchona or aromatic wine. (See No.
5348.)
5350. Charta Epispastica. "White
wax, 4 parts; spermaceti, Ik parts; olive
oil, 2 parts ; resin, f parts ; Canada balsam,
J part ; cantharides in powder, 1 part ; dis-
tilled water, 6 parts. Digest all the ingredi-
ents excepting the Canada balsam in a water-
bath for 2 hours, stirring them constantly ;
then strain, and separate the plaster from the
watery liquid. Mix the Canada balsam with
the plaster melted in a shallow vessel, and
pass slips of paper over the surface of the hot
liquid, so that one surface of the paper shall
receive a thin coating of plaster.
5351. Brodum's Nervous Cordial.
Take equal parts of iron wine, compound
sprits of lavender, tinctures of calumba,
gentian, cinchona, and cardamoms.
5352. Atkinson's Infant Preserva-
tive. Carbonate of magnesia, 6 drachms ;
white sugar, 2 ounces ; oil of aniseed, 20
drops ; spirit of sal- volatile, 2^ drachms ;
laudanum, 1 drachm ; syrup of saffron, 1
ounce ; caraway water to make a pint.
5353. Boyle's Fuming Liquor. Take
quicklime and sulphur, each 3 parts. Tritur-
ate together, adding water sufficient to form
a paste, and incorporate 7 parts sulphate of
ammonia dissolved in water; let the whole
stand, then decant, wash the residuum, rub-
bing it with a small portion of water, unite
the solutions, and filter. This is the sulphu-
retted hydrosulpliatc of ammonia, and is used
in medicine as a powerful alterative in consti-
tutional diseases.
5354. Hall's Solution of Strychnia.
Take pure crystals of strychnia, 16 grains ;
water and alcohol, of each 7i ounces; acetic
acid and compound tincture of cardamoms,
of each i ounce. Mix for solution. Dose, 20 to
30 drops, once or twice a day.
5355. Flemming's Solution of Strych-
nia. Take of strychnia, 2 grains ; distilled
water, 5 fluid drachms ; muriatic acid, 1 drop,
or sufficient to dissolve the strychnia. Dis-
solve by trituration, and add diluted alcohol
enough to make 10 fluid drachms. Dose, in
the beginning, 10 minims.
5356. Brandish's Alkaline Tincture
of Rhubarb. Coarsely powdered rhubarb, 1
ounce; Braudish's alkaline solution, 32 fluid
ounces. The original formula directs only &
ounce rhubarb, but as smaller doses than
were given by Dr. Brandish are now usually
prescribed, the quantity of rhubarb is here
increased. Or an alkaline infusion of rhubarb
may be made by pouring boiling water, 8
parts, on rhubarb, 3 parts, and carbonate of
potash, 1 part.
5357. Brandish's Alkaline Solution,
or Caustic Alkali. American pearl-ashes,
6 pounds; quicklime, 2 pounds; wood ashes
prepared by burning the branches of the ash,
2 pounds ; boiling water, 6 gallons ; slack the
lime, add the rest of the water and the pearl-
ashes, and lastly stir in the wood-ashes ; let
it stand in a covered vessel for 24 hours, and
decant. To each pint add 1 drop of true oil
of juniper berries. Keep it in stoppered
bottles of green glass. The common liquor
of potassa is usually sold for the above solu-
tion.
5358. Coating for Pills. Durden
recommends collodion as a covering for pills ;
others, a solution of gutta percha in chloro-
form; but the ready solubility of these
materials in the stomach may be questioned.
Blanchard uses balsam Of tolu dissolved in
ether. Baildon recommends chloroform in-
stead of ether for dissolving the balsam.
5359. Garrot's Covering for Pills.
Soak 1 ounce purified gelatine in 2 or 3
drachms water; keep it liquefied in a salt-
water bath. The pills are stuck on long pins,
and dipped in the solution; when cold the
pins are withdrawn, after being heated by a
small flame, which melts the gelatine and
closes the hole. *
5360. Bochet's Syrup. Compound
syrup of sarsaparilla, with senna, and 1 per
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
cent, of iodide of potassium. Used for scrofu-
lous affections.
5361. Betton's British Oil. Oil of
turpentine, 8 ounces ; Barbadoes tar, 4 oun-
ces ; oil of rosemary, 4 drachms ; mix.
5362. British Oil, or Oil of Stone.
Take oils of turpentine and linseed, each 8
ounces ; oils of amber and juniper, each 4 oun-
ces. Barbadoes tar, 3 ounces ; seneca (petro-
leum) oil, 1 ounce. Mix. This is an excel-
lent application to cuts and bruises, swellings
and sores of almost any description whatever.
5363. Cochrane's Cough Medicine.
This consists of an acidulated syrup of
poppies.
5364. Godfrey's Cordial. The Phil-
adelphia College of "Pharmacy, to prevent the
mischief arising from the different strength of
this compound, directs it to be prepared as
follows : Dissolve 2k ounces carbonate of
potash in 26 pints of water, add 16 pints mo-
lasses; heat together over a gentle fire till
they simmer, remove the scum, and, when
sufficiently cool, add k ounce oil of sassafras
dissolved in 2 pints of rectified spirit, and 24
fluid ounces of tincture of opium, previously
mixed. It contains about 16 minims of laud-
anum, or rather more than 1 grain of opium
in each fluid ounce.
5365. Baume de Vie. Socotrine aloes,
2 drachms ; rhubarb, 6 drachms ; saffron, 2
drachms ; liquorice root, 1 ounce ; proof
spirit, 8 ounces. Digest for 8 days and filter.
The original Swedish form is this : Aloes, 9
drachms ; rhubarb, gentian, zedoary, saffron,
theriaca, agaric, of each 1 drachm; proof
spirit, 2 pints. (See No. 5337.)
5366. Jozeau's Copahine-mege. The
intention of M. Jozeau m devising this form
of copaiba was to furnish an article that the
stomach would be more able to digest than
the crude article. To this end he proposed to
himself to oxidize the copaiba, which he ac-
complishes by mixing nitric acid with it. The
essential oil is acted on, and hyponitrous acid
gas escapes into the atmosphere. The copai-
ba thus treated is then washed with water,
until it no longer reddens litmus paper, and
one-tenth part of cubebs in fine powder are
added to it, the same proportion of carbonate
of soda, and one-sixteenth part of calcined
magnesia. The mixture is allowed to stand
until it is quite solidified, and in that state it i
made into small masses, which are then care-
fully covered with sugar.
5367. Ford's Balsam of Horehound
is said to be prepared according to the follow-
ing formula : horehound herb, 3£ pounds ;
liquorice root, 3£ pounds; water, 8 pints.
Infuse for 12 hours, then strain off 6 pints, to
which add camphor, 10 drachms ; opium and
benzoin, of each 1 ounce ; dried squills, 2
ounces ; oil of aniseed, 1 ounce ; proof spirit,
12 pints. Macerate for 1 week, then add
honey, 3| pounds. Mix and strain.
5368. Holloway's Ointment. Take
butter, 12 ounces ; bees'-wax, 4 ounces; yellow
resin, 3 ounces. Melt, and add vinegar of
cantharides, 1 ounce. (See No. 1178.) Evap-
orate and add Canada balsam, 1 ounce ; oil of
mace, | drachm ; balsam Peru, 15 drops.
5369.* Holloway's Pills. Take aloes,
4 parts; myrrh, jalap, and ginger, of each
2 parts. Mucilage to mix.
5370. Sydenham's Laudanum. Ac-
ording to t£e Paris Codex this is prepared
as follows : opium, 2 ounces ; saffron, 1 ounce ;
bruised cinnamon and bruised cloves, each 1
drachm ; sherry wine, 1 pint. Mix and mace-
rate for 15 days and filter. Twenty drops are
iqual to one grain of opium.
5371. Riegler's Fever Tincture. Take
of aloes, k ounce ; camphor, 4 scruples ; orange
peel and elecampane root, of each 8 ounces.
Bruise and digest with 10 pints alcohol (80
per cent.) for 8 days. Then express, add
12 ounces dilute sulphuric acid, 6 ounces sul-
phate of quinine, and li ounces Sydenham's
laudanum. (See last receipt.) After the use
of a purgative or emetic if required, 2 drachms
of this tincture are given 3 hours before the
paroxysm is expected, with short diet. On
the seventh, fourteenth, and eighteenth
day, after the last attack, the same dose is
given. This remedy fails only in very excep-
tional cases. It is in use in the Austrian mil-
itary hospitals.
5372. Kitridge's Salve. Make a de-
coction in rain water of li pounds each bitter-
sweet root and sweet elder root ; k pound
each hop vines, hop leaves, and garden plan-
tain tops, with i pound of the root of the last
named plant, and i ounce plug tobacco.
Strain, and press through a thick cloth, and
evaporate to i pint. Then mix with 1 pound
sweet butter and 1 ounce each resin and bees'-
wax. Heat gently until the water has all evap-
orated. This is a good curative salve for sores
on the human body as well as on animals.
5373. Thirlault's Glycero-pomade of
Iodide of Potassium. Melt glycerine (of
28° to 30° Baume), 100 parts ; powdered ani-
mal soap, 50 parts, powdered iodide of po-
tassium, 130 parts ; in a warm bath ; then
pour out into a warm porcelain mortar, and
triturate well for J hour. Then flavor with 2
parts oil of bitter almonds.
5374. Elixir of Bromide of Ammo-
nium. Prepared from bromide of ammonium
as in No. 5449, without the coloring.
5375. Patent Dysentery Cordial.
Take of rhubarb, catechu, and camphor,
2 parts each; laudanum, 4 parts; and a,
little oil of anise. Dose, 15 to 60 drops
after each operation.
5376. Whitwith's Bed Drops. Take
oil of thyme, 4 drachms ; tincture of myrrh,
2 ounces ; tincture of camphor, 2 drachms ;
compound spirits of lavender, 2 ounces ; alco-
hol, 8 ounces. Mix. Dose, 25 drops in some
suitable vehicle, two, three, or four times a
day. This is the original receipt, but it has
been varied in many ways.
5377. George's Myrrhine. Glycerine,
38 parts ; myrrh, 7 parts ; arrow-root, 5 parts ;
chalk, 54 parts ; oil of cinnamon, 1 part. For
the preservation of the teeth.
5378. Kirkland's Neutral Cerate.
Mix together 4 ounces litharge plaster, 1J
drachms acetate of lead, and 2 ounces each
olive oil, precipitated chalk, and acetic acid.
5379. Hufeland's Zinc Cerate. For
sore nipples, ulcerations of the breast, &c.
Mix 15 grains each oxide of zinc and lycopo-
dium, with \ ounce simple cerate and about
h ounce of spermaceti cerate.
5380. Deschamps' Fuligokali Oint-
ment. This ointment has been considerably
PATENT AND PEOPKIETARY MEDICINES.
4:73
used in obstinate chronic diseases of the skin
as a detersive, resolvent, and stimulant appli-
cation, and is made by taking of fuligokali,
16 to 30 parts (sec next- receipt) ; lard, 1
ounce. Rub together.
5381. To Obtain Fuligokali. Take of
potassa, 20 parts ; bright soot, 100 parts ; wa-
ter, sufficient ; boil for an hour, cool, dilute
with water, evaporate to dryness, and keep in
well-stoppered bottles.
5382. Hooper's Female Pills. Take 1
drachm dry sulphate of iron, 15 grains pow-
dered jalap, 1 drachm powdered aloes and cin-
namon, and 8 grains myrrh. Mix with syrup,
and make into 30 pills. Dose, 2 or 3 at bed-
time for several nights in succession. They
purge smartly, and act beneficially as an em-
meuagogue. According to a recent analysis,
the iron is in a peroxidized state ; probably the
sulphate is partially calcined. The Philadel-
phia College of Pharmacy gives the following
formula : Barbadoes aloes, 8 ounces ; dried
sulphate of iron, 9£ drachms ; extract of black
hellebore, 2 ounces ; myrrh and soap, each 2
ounces ; cauella, 1 ounce ; ginger, 1 ounce ;
water sufficient to form a mass. Divide into
pills of 2J grains each.
5383. Nuremberg Plaster. Mix 8
ounces red lead with 1 pound olive oil, and
expose to a heat until the mixture becomes
brown or blackish ; add £ ounce resin, Ik oun-
ces yellow wax, and 2 drachms camphor. The
red lead should not be added to the oil until
so far heated as to scorch a feather dipped
into it.
5384. Green Coloring Powder. Mix
together 1 part indigo and 10 parts curcuma
root, and reduce to a fine powder. (Hager.)
5385. Green Oil. Digest for 2 days,
with frequent agitation, 1 part green coloring
powder (see last receipt} in 20 parts olive oil.
Decant the clear, and filter. Keep in glass
bottles carefully stopped. Or: Boil 1 part
fresh plantain in 8 parts olive oil, until crisp ;
press and filter. (Hagcr.)
Either of these will produce an oil whose
appearance is identical with the oil of hen-
bane, and is probably sometimes sold for it.
5386. Plunket's Ointment for Cancer.
"White arsenic, sulphur, powdered flowers of
lesser spearwort and stinking chamomile, lev-
igated together, and formed into a paste with
white of egg.
5387. Hope's Camphor Mixture. Take
4 ounces camphor watei', 30 drops fuming
nitric acid, and 20 to 40 drops tincture of
opium. Dose, a table-spoonful every 2 hours.
5388. Murphy's Carminative. Take
£ pint tincture of valerian, 10 fluid drachms
acetated tincture of opium, 128 grains pulver-
ized camphor, 248 grains carbonate of potassa,
2 ounces carbonate of magnesia, 40 minims
each oil of anise and oil of mint, and li pints
water. Dose for an infant, 20 to 25 drops.
This is said to be an improvement on Dewees'
carminative. (See No. 5435.)
5389. Eisenmann's Opiated Wine of
Colchicum. This consists of a mixture of 6
parts wine of colchicum seed and 1 part wine
of opium.
5390. Pierlot's Solution of Valerian-
ate of Ammonia. Dissolve 3 scruples ex-
tract of valerian in 7 fluid ounces spring wa-
ter; add 3 fluid drachms fluid extract of vale-
rian, and filter; then add 2 drachms valerianate
of ammonia, 6 fluid drachms orange-flower
water, and 6 fluid drachms simple syrup.
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times a day.
5391. Brandreth's Pills. According
to Dr. Hager's analysis, these consist of 10
grains extract of may-apple, 30 grains poke
berry juice, 10 grains saffron, 10 grains pow-
dered may apple root, 15 grains powdered
cloves, and 3 drops oil of peppermint. This
is made into 30 pills with powdered liquorice
root.
5392. Foucher's Dressing for Wounds.
Dissolve 2 drachms chlorate of potassa in 4
fluid ounces glycerine, and add 2i ounces al-
cohol. This forms a cle"ar liquid which is
readily absorbed by linen, and does not soil
the clothing. It keeps the dressings moist for
24 hours, is easily washed off with lukewarm
water, and is well adapted for soft granula-
tions.
5393. Atler's Nipple Wash. Take
£ drachm powdered gum-arabic, 10 grains
borate of soda, and 1 drachm tincture of
myrrh.
5394. Beach's Neutralizing Cordial.
Mix together 1 ounce coarsely powdered Tur-
key rhubarb, k ounce peppermint leaves, and
1 ounce bicarbonate of potash. Put the ma-
terials in a stone jar, and add 1 pint boiling
water ; let it stand till cold, and then add i
pint best brandy and i pound loaf sugar.
Digest for a day or two, and strain through
flannel. Bottle for use.
5395. Hager's Vermin Ointment.
Mix together 12 parts sulphate of quinine,
2 parts muriatic acid, and 200 parts lard.
5396. Mayes' Substitute for Osgood's
Indian Cholagogue. Dr. Mayes, of Mayes-
ville, S. C., gives the following receipt, which
he declares to be very similar to, if not iden-
tically the same, in taste, smell and effects, as
Osgood's Indian cholagogue. Take 2 drachms
sulphate of quinine ; 1 drachm Tildens' fluid
extract of leptandra ; 4 ounces saturated tinc-
ture of queens' root ; 3 drachms Tilden's ex-
tract of podophyllin (may-apple); 10 drops
each of oil of sassafras and oil of wintergreen ;
and sufficient best New Orleans molasses to
make the whole up to 8 ounces. This mixture
to be well shaken up before a dose is mea-
sured; as the quinine (not being dissolved)
will settle to the bottom of the bottle. The
dose for adults is from 1 to 3 tea-spoonfuls 3
times a day. The dose is, however, a matter
dependent entirely upon the nature of the
case ; and may be less or more, according to
circumstances. It usually requires at least
one 8-ounce bottle of the mixture to insure a
permanent cure. "When Tilden's fluid ex-
tracts cannot be had, saturated tinctures may
be used, but in increased quantities; say
rather more than double the quantity given
of the fluid extract. In order, then, to preserve
the due balance, the mixture must be made to
measure 10 ounces, and a corresponding in-
crease of dose must be made.
5397. Norris's Soda Mint. Soda mint,
so much employed as an antacid and carmina-
tive for over-fed infants and dyspeptics, was
originally a favorite prescription of Dr. Geo.
Morris. His formula was the following : Mix
together \ ounce bicarbonate of soda, 1 ounce
aromatic spirits of ammonia, and 1 pint pep-
4,74,
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
penmnt water. Dose, from a dessert-spoonful
to a table- spoonful for adults; from k to 1
tea- spoonful for infants.
5398. Foy's Muriatic Acid Chilblain
Lotion. Muriatic a6id, 1 part; water, 16
parts. To be used occasionally as a wash.
5399. Foy's Sulphuric Acid Chilblain
Liniment. Sulphuric acid, 2 drachms; olive
oil, 2k ounces; and oil of turpentine, 1 ounce.
Mix. Applied with gentle friction where the
skin is not broken.
5400. Balsam of Peru Liniment for
Chilblains. Balsam of Peru, £ drachm;
muriatic ether, 2 drachms ; and laudanum, 2
drachms. To be used as a friction.
5401. Gassicourt's Turpentine Chil-
blain Lotion. Oil of turpentine, 4 parts;
sulphuric acid, 1 part ; olive oil, 10 parts. To
be applied to the affected part night and morn-
ing.
5402. Saunders' Petroleum Chilblain
Embrocation. Mix together petroleum, ^
ounce ; alcohol, £ ounce.
5403. Radius' Camphor Chilblain
Ointment. Lard, suet, oil of bayberries, and
wax, of each k ounce. Melt together and add
camphor, 1 drachm.
5404. Compound Creosote Ointment
for Chilblains. Creosote, 10 drops ; solution
of subacetate of lead, 10 drops; extract of
opium, li grains; lard, 1 ounce.
5405. Deschamps' Pastils for Bad
Breath. Take of dry hypochlorite of lime,
2 drachms; sugar, 8k ounces; starch, 8
drachms; gum tragacanth, 1 drachm; and
carmine, 2k grains. The pastils should be
made so as to weigh about 2k grains ; 5 or 6
may be taken in the space of 2 hours. By
employing starch in the preparation of the
lozenges, Deschamps wishes to prevent the
yellow color which they would otherwise as-
sume.
5406. Soubeiran's Lotion of Vera-
tria. Take 15 grains veratria, dissolve it in
sufficient dilute muriatic acid, and add 5
drachms glycerine.
5407. Noble's Tonic Elixir. Take 1
ounce each of rhubarb root, orange peel, and
caraway (or fennel) seed; percolate with 1
pint brandy. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times a
day, after each meal.
5408. Delioux's Wine for Rheuma-
tism, Gout, and Neuralgia. Take 5 parts
tincture of colchicum seed, 2 parts tincture of
aconite leaves, 1 part tincture of fox-glove,
and 200 parts white wine. Dose to com-
mence with, k table- spoonful 3 times a day.
5409. Ludlam's Specific. Take 2
drachms extract of rhatauy, 1 drachm alum,
1 ounce cubebs, all in powder ; 1 fluid ounce
balsam of capaiba, and sufficient carbonate of
magnesia. Dose, a small piece every 3 or 4
hours.
5410. Davis' Pain Killer. This pre-
paration is said to be prepared as follows :
Take 20 pounds powdered guaiac, 2 pounds
camphor, 6 pounds powdered cayenne pepper,
1 pound caustic liquor of ammonia, and \
Sound powdered opium ; digest these ingre-
ients in 32 gallons alcohol for 2 weeks, and
filter.
5411. Hunter's Red Drop. Triturate
in a glass mortar, 10 grains corrosive sublim-
ate in 12 drops muriatic acid, aud add gradu-
ally I fluid ounce compound spirit of laven-
der. Dose, 5 to 20 drops in wine. A power-
ful alterative in syphilitic diseases, and will
not salivate.
5412. Battley's Sedative Solution of
Opium. Take 6 ounces sliced opium, \\
ounces bruised nutmegs, k ounce Spanish saf-
fron, and 4 pounds verjuice. Boil together,
and add 4 drachms yeast ; let the whole fer-
ment 6 weeks, in a warm place. Decant, fil-
ter, and bottle ; add a little sugar to each bot-
tle. One drop of this sedative is equivalent
to 3 drops of black drop.
5413. Nimmo's Solution of Croton
Oil. Mix together \ drachm alcoholic solu-
tion of croton oil, 2 drachms each simple
syrup and guaiac mucilage, and k ounce dis-
tilled water. This quantity constitutes a
dose; a little milk to be swallowed before
and after.
The alcoholic solution referred to is formed
by adding 8 drops croton oil to 1 fluid ounce
rectified spirit of wine (90 per cent.)
5414. Gregory's Powder. Mix to-
gether 6 drachms calcined magnesia, 3
drachms powdered rhubarb, and 1 drachm
powdered ginger. (Sec No. 5211.)
5415. Remoussin's Anti-Syphilitic
Gargle. Take 1 ounce of a decoction of
black nightshade and hemlock, and 3 grains
bichloride of mercury.
5416. Ricord and Favrot's Capsules
of Copaiba. Take 270 grammes (4167
grains J balsam of copaiba, 60 grammes (926
grains) neutral pepsin, 12 grammes (185
grains) subnitrate of bismuth, and 18. gram-
mes (277^ grains) calcined magnesia. This
is sufficient for 600 gelatine capsules. Dose,
from 15 to 18 capsules a day.
5417. Ricord and Favrot's Capsules
of Copaiba and Tar. Take 220 grammes
(3395| grains) balsam of copaiba, 20 gram-
mes (308£ grains) Norwegian tar, and 15
grammes (23H grains) calcined magnesia.
To make 400 gelatine capsules. Dose, 15
every day.
5418. Hamburg Tea. This formula
for Hamburger Thee is given by Hager. Mix
together 8 parts senna leaves, 4 parts manna,
and 1 part coriander.
5419. Persian Balsam. This is also
known under the names of Traumatic Elixir,
Balm of the Innocents, and Baume du Com-
mandcur. Digest 1 ounce angelica root and
2 ounces St. John's wort, for 8 days in 5
pints 80 per cent, alcohol. Strain, and digest
with 1 ounce each gum myrrh and gum
olibanum. Then add 6 ounces each balsam
of tolu and gum benzoin ; macerate for 2
weeks ; then filter.
5420. Grahame's Elixir of Bismuth.
Dissolve 10 minims oil of orange flowers, 1
drop oil of cinnamon, 1 drop oil of cloves,
and 2 drops oil of anise, in li fluid drachms
deodorized alcohol; add 2 fluid drachms
syrup, and shake the mixture well. Dissolve
136 grains aminonio-citrate of bismuth in 2
fluid ounces distilled water and li fluid
ounces rose-water, adding sufficient aquu am-
monia to produce a perfect solution, Mix
the two solutions, add 1| fluid ounces alcohol,
and, after standing for a short time, filter un-
til perfectly clear ; if not bright, add about
2 fluid drachms more alcohol. This is a fiiio
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
preparation, each tea-spoonful containing
about 2 grains of bismuth salt.
5421. Lugol's Iodine Solution. This
consists of 1 part iodine dissolved in 2 parts
iodide of potassium and 20 parts water. The
solution of this strength is the one generally
understood as Lugol's solution.
5422. Iodine Solution for External
Use. Lugol devised two other solutions of
different degrees of strength from the one
given in No. 5421. As follows :
Rubefacient solution, containing 1 part io-
dine to 2 parts iodide of potassium and 12
parts water.
Caustic solution, consisting of 1 part iodine,
1 part iodide of potassium, and 2 parts water.
5423. Camphorated Dover's Powder.
Pulverize 5 drachms camphor with ether,
add 5 drachms prepared chalk, 5 drachms
pulverized liquorice, and 17 grains sulphate
of morphine. Dose, from 1 to 10 grains,
used in all kinds of fevers, and as an ano-
dyne.
5424. Davis' Neutralising Cordial.
Take 8 ounces rhubarb, 2 ounces each saf-
fron, cardamoms, nutmeg, and carbonate of
soda; 2 pounds white sugar, and 2 ounces
essence of peppermint, •with sufficient brandy
and water to make up to 2 pints. Dose, 1 to
2 tea-spoonfuls.
5425. German Tea for the Chest.
The compound known as German Brust-Thee
is composed of the following ingredients, cut
up small and mixed together : Take 4 ounces
marsh-mallow root. 1& ounces liquorice-root,
i ounce Florentine orris root, 2 ounces colt's
foot leaves ; 1 ounce each red poppy flowers,
mullein flowers, and star anise seed.
5426. Frey's Vermifuge. Take 1
ounce castor oil, 1 ounce aromatic syrup of
rhubarb, 30 drops oil of Baltimore wormseed,
and 5 drops croton oil.
5427. Velpeau's Erysipelas Lotion.
Dissolve 1 ounce sulphate of iron in 1 pint
water. Apply to the part affected every 2 or
3 hours.
5428. Procter's Vermifuge. To expel
stomach worms from young children. Mix
16 grains santonin with 2 fluid ounces fluid
extract of pink-root and senna. Dose, for a
child 2 years old, 1 tea-spoonful night and
moming, until purging takes place.
5429. Laurence's Hemorrhage Solu-
tion. Dissolve 2 drachms chloride of iron in
1 fluid ounce water. Apply with a brush,
to prevent gangrene and arrest hornorrhage.
5430. Laurence's Styptic Solution.
If the solid perchloride of iron be kept in a
bottle, a small portion deliquesces after a
time, forming a thick brown liquid. This,
applied to a bleeding surface by means of a
brush of spun glass, arrests the flow of blood
almost immediately.
5431. Monsel's Styptic Solution.
This consists of a solution of subsulphate of
iron, and is applicable for the same purpose
as Laurence's hemorrhage solution. (See No.
5429.) The preparation of the solution of
subsulphate of iron is thus given in the U. S.
Ph. Mix 510 grains sulphuric acid and 780
grains nitric acid with \ pint distilled water ;
heat to the boiling point, and add, k part
at a time, 12 troy ounces sulphate of iron, in
coarse powder, stirring after each addition
until effervescence ceases. Boil the solution
until nitrous vapors are no longer perceptible,
and the color assumes a deep ruby tint.
When nearly cold, add sufficient distilled
water to make up to 12 fluid ounces.
5432. Patterson's Emulsion of Pump-
kin-Seeds. This is a good preparation lor
expelling tape-worms. Take 2 ounces pump-
kin seeds, peel and pound to a paste with 1
ounce sugar; then add by degrees 8 fluid
ounces water. The whole to be taken in 2 or
3 draughts, at short intervals, fasting. Dr.
H. S. Patterson has prescribed this repeatedly
with success.
5433. left's Dental Anaesthetic. Mix
1 fluid ounce each tincture of aconite root,
purified chloroform, and alcohol, with 6
grains morphia. Used to diminish the pain
in extracting teeth, by applying two plugs of
cotton, moistened with the liquid, to the
gums around the tooth for 1 or 2 minutes. It
must not be swallowed.
5434. Parrish's Quinine Pills. Place
20 grains sulphate of quinia on a slab, drop
upon it 15 minims aromatic sulphuric acid,
triturating it with a bone spatula until it
becomes a thick paste. Then divide rapidly
into the required number of pills. A 3-grain
pill made in this manner will not be incon-
veniently large.
5435. Grimault's Matico Injection.
The matico injection, used by Grimault, of
Paris, for gonorrhoea, is prepared, according
to Bjoerklund, by dissolving 4 grains sulphate
of copper in 8 ounces infusion of matico. The
8 ounces of infusion are made from k ounce
matico.
5436. Storm's Specific. Take 2 ounces
sweet spirits of nitre, li drachms oil of cu-
bebs, 2 ounces balsam of copaiba, 1 drachm
oil of turpentine, 20 drops oil of cinnamon,
3 ounces mucilage of gum-arabic, and suffi-
cient tincture of cochineal to color. This
preparation is preferred by many to the cap-
sules.
5437. Milhau's Emulsion of Cod-
Liver Oil. Take 1 fluid ounce syrup con-
taining sufficient saccharate of lime to repre-
sent 6 grains of the hydrate of lime ; 5 fluid
ounces water, 9 fluid ounces cod-liver oil, and
6 drops essential oil of almonds. Make into
an emulsion.
5438. Bumstead's Opium Injection
for Gonorrhoea. An injection, composed of
1 scruple extract of opium, 1 fluid ounce gly-
cerine and 3 fluid ounces water, passed into
the urethra after every passage of urine,
affords relief in local pain, and diminution of
discharge.
5439. Eicord's Gonorrhoea Injection.
Take 20 grains each sulphate of zinc and ace-
tate of lead, and 4 fluid ounces rose-water.
The bottle to be well shaken before using.
5440. Condy's Fluid. Dissolve J
drachm permanganate of potassa in 1 pint
water. This is an excellent lotion for burns,
ulcers, and suppurating surfaces, relieving the
pain and removing the fetid odor.
5441. Dewees' Tincture of Guaiacum.
Digest for a few days 4 ounces powdered
gum-guaiac, li drachms carbonate of soda
(or of potassa), and 1 ounce powdered allspice,
in 1 pint dilute alcohol, Add 1 or 2 drachms
volatile spirit of ammonia to every 4 ounces
4:76
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
of the tincture. To be administered in doses
of 1 tea-spoonful in a little sweetened milk,
or in sherry wine, morning, noon and night,
in cases of suppressed menses. This is an ex-
cellent and well-tried remedy.
5442. Powell's Cough Balsam. Mix
together 2 drachms syrup of tolu, 1 ounce
paregoric elixir, and 2 ounces liquorice juice.
5443. Steer's Opodeldoc. I. Kectified
spirit, 1 quart ; castile soap, 5 ounces ; cam-
phor, 2i ounces; oil of rosemary, 2i drachms;
oil of origanum, 5 drachms; weaker ammo-
nia, 4 ounces ; digest till dissolved, and pour
while warm into wide-mouthed bottles.
II. Kectified spirits, 8 pints; white soap,
20 ounces ; camphor, 8 ounces ; water of am-
monia, 4 ounces ; oil of rosemary, 1 ounce ;
oil of horsemint, 1 ounce; dissolve the soap
in the spirit by a gentle heat, and add the
other ingredients. Bottle whilst warm.
5444. Folk's Antacrid Tincture.
This alterative has been found a valuable
remedy in secondary syphilis and other dis-
orders. Macerate for 7 days 1 ounce powdered
guaiac, 1 ounce Canadian balsam, and 2 fluid
drachms oil of sassafras, in 8 fluid ounces al-
cohol. Filter, and add 1 scruple corrosive
sublimate. Dose, 20 drops in wine or sweet-
ened water, night and morning.
5445. Hufeland's Pectoral Elixir.
Take 3 parts saffron, 4 parts each benzoin,
myrrh, gum-ammoniac, aniseseed, and puri-
fied liquorice-juice; 8 parts each sneezewort
root, Florentine orris-root, and squill-bulbs;
macerate for a week in 93 parts rectified
spirit, stirring frequently, then filter.
5446. Hufeland's Aperient Elixir.
Eeduce to coarse powder 4 parts each of aloes,
myrrh, and gum-guaiacum ; add 4 parts
bruised rhubarb-root, 2 parts bruised saffron,
8 parts carbonate of potassa, 8 parts muriate
of ammonia, 48 parts spirit of horse-radish
root, and 144 parts distilled water. Macerate
the ingredients for a few days, frequently
stirring, then filter. (Hager.)
5447. Hufeland's Anticatarrh Elixir.
Take 60 parts extract of blessed-thistle, 20
parts extract of bitter-sweet, dissolve them in
480 parts fennel water and 60 parts bitter-
almond water. Dose, 60 drops 4 times a day.
(Eager.')
5448. Meyer's Water of Life. Take
18 parts fresh myrtle-berries, 12 parts orange-
peel, 8 parts cinnamon, 2 parts galanga-root,
2 parts zedoary-root, and 1 part cardamoms.
Reduce them by braising and cutting, and di-
gest them for 3 days with frequent agitation,
in 600 parts rectified spirit and 680 parts water;
then strain with pressure, and let it settle;
decant the clear, filter it, and add 120 parts
white sugar. (Hager.)
5449. Elixir of Bromide of Potassi-
um. Dissolve 1 ounce bromide of potassium
and 1 ounce sugar in 1 pint simple elixir ; add
20 minims solution of oil of orange and 10
minims of solution of oil of bitter almonds,
and filter; color with cochineal color. The
officinal formula for preparing bromide of po-
tassium is given in No. 4198.
5450. Hufeland's Infant Powder.
Take 2 ounces valerian root ; 3 ounces orris
root; 1 ounce aniseed; 2 drachms saffron, all
in powder, and 2 ounces carbonate of mag-
nesia.
5451. Granville's Counter-irritant
Lotions. These consist of three ingredients,
viz. : strong water of ammonia (specific grav-
ity .872) more than 3 times the strength of
officinal liquor ammonia; of spirit of rose-
mary, made by infusing 2 pounds of the fresh
tops of rosemary in 8 pints alcohol for 24
hours, and distilling 7 pints ; and of spirit of
camphor, composed of 4 ounces camphor dis-
solved in 2 pints alcohol.
The lotion is prepared of two different
strengths ; the milder lotion consists of 4
drachms of the ammonia, 3 drachms of the
spirit of rosemary, and 1 drachm of the cam-
phor spirit.
The stronger lotion contains 5 drachms of
the ammonia, 2 of the spirit of rosemary, and
1 of the camphor. The milder is generally
sufficient to produce full vesication in from 3
to 10 minutes. The stronger is seldom used
except in apoplexy, and to produce cauteriza-
tion.
5452. Startin's Borax and Glycerine
Lotion. For sore lips, chapped hands, &c.
Take 5 drachm borax, % fluid ounce glycerine,
and 7k fluid ounces rose-water.
5453. Brainard's Solution for Exter-
nal Use. Dissolve 16 grains lactate of iron
in'2 fluid drachms distilled water.
5454. Birch's Pills for Habitual Con-
stipation. Take \ drachm alcoholic extract
of rhubarb, 24 grains extract of taraxacum,
and 2 grains sulphate of quinine. Mix to-
gether and make into 12 pills. One to be
taken either on rising in the morning or at
dinner time, or even at both periods when
the constipation is very obstinate. This is a
very gentle stomachic and tonic evacuant,
particularly useful for the delicate.
5455. Da Costa's Chronic Constipa-
tion Pill. Take 1 grain podophyllin, 1 grain
extract belladonna, 5 grains capsicum, and 20
grains powdered rhubarb; mix and divide
into 20 pills. One pill to be taken 3 times a
day.
5456. Birch's Constipation Pill.
Take 12 i grains compound extract of colo-
cynth and 40 grains extract of henbane.
Mix and divide into 20 pills. This is an ex-
cellent pill for occasional use, especially for
constipation in old age.
5457. Ricord's Copaiba and Pepsine
Pills. Take 11 £ drachms balsam of copaiba,
2k drachms neutral pepsine, 31 grains nitrate
of bismuth, and 46 grains calcined magnesia.
Divide into 100 capsules. Administer 15 to
18 daily.
5458. lame Juice and Glycerine.
Lime (or lemon) juice, k pint. Heat in a
porcelain mortar to near the boiling point,
and add gradually rose water, elder-flower
water, and rectified spirit, of each 2 ounces.
Agitate the whole well together. After 24
hours' repose, decant or filter through calico
or muslin, then add pure glycerine, 2i
ounces; oil of lemons, k drachm. Again
agitate them together for some time, and by
careful manipulation you will have a some-
what milky liquid ; but it should be quite
free from any coarse floating matter or sedi-
ment.
5459. Boudault's Pepsine Pills. Mix
2 drachms and 34 grains starchy pepsine,
with sufficient powdered tragacanth to make
PATENT AND PEOPRIETAEY MEDICINES.
477
HO pills. Dose, 3 pills before and 3 after
each meal, and sometimes 3 during the
meal.
5460. Hogg's Pepsine Pills. Mix 2
drachms 34 grains starchy pepsine, 1 drachm
17 grains nitrate of bismuth, and 38i grains
lactic acid. Make into 100 pills, and coat
with sugar and balsam of tolu. Dose, 4 to 12
pills 1 hour after meals.
5461. Angelot's Remedy for Ulcera-
ted Gums. Take of hypochlorite of lime,
from 10 to 25 grains; mucilage of gum-ara-
bic, 1& to 4 drachms; syrup of orange peel,
li to 2 drachms. Mix thoroughly. This
mixture is employed as a lotion to the ulcera-
ted gums.
5462. Angelot's Pastils for Bad
Breath. These preparations are better adapt-
ed than liquids for carrying on the person.
Take of hypochlorite of lime, 7 drachms;
sugar flavored with vanilla, 3 drachms ; gum-
arabic, 5 drachms. The pastils are made so
as to weigh from 10 to 11 grains. 2 or 3
of these pastils are sufficient to remove
from the breath the disagreeable odor pro-
duced by tobacco smoke. The pastils thus
prepared have a grey color and become quite
hard.
If pastils of whiter color are required the
following substances are employed : Take of
dry hypochlorite of lime, 20 grains ; pulver-
ized sugar, 1 ounce; gum tragacanth, 16
grains. The hypochlorite of lime is tritura-
ted in a glass mortar, and a small quantity of
water is poured upouit ; it is then left to repose,
decanted, and a second quantity of water
added ; the two liquids are filtered, and the gum
and sugar added so as to form a paste. This
is divided into pastils weighing from 12 to 16
grains. If it is desired to aromatize the
paste, 1 or 2 drops of any essential oil may be
added to the sugar and gum before the paste
is formed.
5463. Santonin Lozenges. Take 5
troy ounces white sugar in powder, £ troy
ounce fine starch, 10 grains finely powdered
tragacanth ; the whole well mixed with the
white of 5 eggs previously beaten to a dense
froth ; place in a porcelain dish over the wa-
ter-bath, and, with constant stirring, keep at a
temperature not exceeding 100° Fahr. until
a sample taken from the mixture no longer
runs from the spatula. An intimate mixture
of 50 grains powdered santonin and 100
grains powdered sugar is incorporated with
the mass, and the whole, by means of a syr-
inge, formed into 100 lozenges, each contain-
ing \ grain of santonin. They are depos-
ited on smooth or waxed paper, and when
hard are to be placed between cotton-wadding
and protected from the light.
5464. duesneville's Ferruginous Pow-
der. Bicarbonate of soda, 4 parts; tartaric
acid, 7 parts ; pure sulphate of iron, 4 parts ;
sugar, 8 parts. Powder each fine, then mix
and keep the powder in a well-corked bottle.
Dose, 1 spoonful in 6 or 7 ounces of sweet-
ened water.
5465. Tronchin's Cough Syrup.
Powdered gum-arabic, 8 ounces ; precipitated
sulphuret of antimony, 4 scruples ; anise, 4
scruples ; extract of liquorice, 2 ounces ; ex-
tract of opium, 12 grains ; white sugar, 2
pounds. Mix, and form lozenges of 6 grains,
one of which is to be taken occasionally in
catarrh and bronchial affections.
5466. Pierquin's Cough Syrup.
Kermes mineral, 2 grains ; gum-arabic, 1
drachm ; syrup, 5 ounces. Mix. A spoonful
occasionally when expectoration is difficult.
5467. Kermes Mineral. Dissolve 23
troy ounces carbonate of soda in 16 pints
boiling water ; add 1 troy ounce finely pow-
dered sulphuret of antimony, and boil for an
hour. Filter rapidly into a warm earthen
vessel, cover closely and cool slowly. After
24 hours decant the fluid, drain the precipi-
tate on a filter, wash it with cold water (pre-
viously boiled), and dry without heat. Keep
in a well-stopped bottle, protected from the
light. ( U. S. Pli.) This is the oxysulpnuret
of antimony.
5468. Rousseau's Laudanum. Dis-
solve 12 ounces white honey in 3 pounds
warm water, and set it aside in a warm place.
"When fermentation begins add to it a solution
of 4 ounces selected opium in 12 ounces wa-
ter. Let the mixture stand for a month at a
temperature of 86° Fahr. ; then strain, filter,
and evaporate to 10 ounces; finally strain
and add 4k ounces proof alcohol. Seven
drops of this preparation contain about 1 grain
of opium.
5469. Bonnamy's Dentifrice. Take
prepared chalk, 1 part; burned hartshorn, 1
part; hydrate of alumina, 1 part; perfume
with oil of cinnamon. This is an excellent
dentifrice.
5470. Extract of Milk. Condensed
milk is thus prepared : Take 10,000 parts fresh
cows' milk, 50 parts white sugar, and 2 parts
pure carbonate of soda. Place them in a por-
celain vessel, and, with constant stirring, eva-
porate to the consistence of a thick extract,
either in a vacuum or by the heat of a vapor
bath of 140° to 160° Fahr. One part of the
extract will represent 10 parts of fresh milk.
(Hager.)
5471. Milk Powder. Take 10,000 parts
fresh cows' milk, 2 parts dry caustic potassa,
and 2 parts borax. Evaporate these in a
vacuum to about 2000 parts. Then mix in
thoroughly 50 parts precipitated phosphate of
lime, 15 parts table salt, 100 parts powdered
gum-arabic, and 200 parts powdered sugar.
Evaporate the whole to a dry powder at a
heat of 95° to 110° Fahr. (Hager.)
5472. Schwarz's Liniment for Scalds
and Burns. Take 16 parts linseed oil, 8
parts white of egg, and 1 part tincture of
opium; mix them thoroughly by trituration
with 2 parts acetate of lead. Spread upon
lint and apply to the wound. (Hager.}
5473. Hungarian Liniment. Pulverize
5 parts cantharides, 20 parts each mustard
seed, black pepper, and camphor; macerate
for 2 days in 200 parts wine vinegar, then add
400 parts rectified spirits. Strain with pres-
sure, and filter. (Hager.)
5474. Eland's Ferruginous Pills.
Take equal weights of sulphate of iron and
carbonate of potassa ; make into a mass with
mucilage of tragacanth and powdered liquorice
root.
5475. Castillon's Powders. Take 1
drachm each sago, jalap, and tragacanth, all
in powder; 1 scruple prepared oyster shell,
and sufficient cochineal to color. Boil 1
478
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
drachm of this mixture in a pint of milk, and
use the decoction as a diet m chronic bowel
affections.
5476. Goulard's Cerate. This is the
same preparation as the cerate of subacetate
of lead of the U. S. Pharmacopoeia. Mix 4
troy ounces melted white wax with 7 troy
ounces olive oil. When it begins to thicken,
gradually pour in 2| fluid ounces solution of
subacetate of lead, stirring constantly with a
wooden spatula until cool. Then mix in 30
grains camphor dissolved in 1 fluid ounce olive
Gondret's Ammoniacal Oint-
ment. Take 32 parts lard and 2 parts oil of
oil.
5477.
sweet almonds,
heat, and pour
mouthed bottle.
Melt together by a gentle
the mixture into a wide-
Add 17 parts of a solution of
ammonia of 25° Baume", and mix thorough-
ly until cold. Keep it in a cool place, and
in a bottle with an accurately fitting stopper.
It will vesicate, or raise a blister under the
skin in 10 minutes if properly prepared.
M
edical Receipts. The scope
_ of this work does not allow of the
insertion of much beyond general and speci-
fic remedies for ailments of e very-day occur-
rence; it being understood that, in all serious
cases, the guidance of a physician is indispen-
of iodine, and let it diy ; after which apply a
little citrine ointment. ( See No. 4947.) When
the eruption is on an exposed part, a wash
composed of 1 drachm corrosive sublimate, 2
scruples white vitriol (sulphate of zinc), 3
drachms sal-ammoniac, 2 drachms salt, and 3
ounces sugar of lead, mixed with 1 pint soft
water, may be used alternately with the tinc-
ture of iodine.
5483. Salt Rheum from Photographic
Chemicals. Make a salve by steeping
queen of the meadow root over a slow heat in
fresh hog's lard for from 2 to 6 hours — the
longer the more powerful the salve. Apply
this to the eruptions as often as convenient,
and in a short time there will be a decided
improvement and a cure will be effected in
from 1 to 6 weeks. If the stomach or blood
should seem out of order, take "Winchester's
hypophosphites of lime and soda. Use this
medicine and no other, as it acts without fail
and to the point, not being in any way inju-
rious. Avoid using either iron or mercury, as
they do no good and are very apt to do in-
jury. Where the disease is not hereditary a
cure will be effected in a short time ; where it
has become a chronic difficulty the cure will
be slower. When buying the root, ask for
queen of the meadow root. Be careful not
to get queen's root, commonly called stil-
lingia, many druggists not knowing the differ-
ence.
5484. Baker's Itch. This disease is of
common occurrence on the hands of bakers ;
sable. Advice and directions are given for hence the vulgar name. The treatment is as
the treatment of some severe cases requiring
prompt action, that may be followed with
benefit until the arrival of the doctor. No
particular school of medicine is adhered to,
the efficacy of each receipt being the primary
consideration in inserting it. The list includes
many popular and domestic remedies, together
with prescriptions of celebrated and leading
physicians.
5479. To Cure Prairie or Seven
Years' Itch. Use plenty of castile soap and
water, and afterwards freely apply iodide of
sulphur ointment; or take any given quantity
of simple sulphur ointment and color it to a
light-brown or chocolate color with the sub-
carbonate of iron, and perfume it. Apply
this freely ; and, if the case is severe, admin-
ister mild alteratives in conjunction with the
outward application.
5480. Sulphur Bath. The bath may
be prepared either by adding 1 ounce sul-
phuret of potassium for every 10 or- 12 gallons
of water used, or 1 ounce sulphuret of cal-
cium for every 15 gallons of water. The sul-
phur bath is a powerful remedy in every de-
scription of skin disease. Leprosy (the most
obstinate of all) has been completely cured
by it ; the common itch requires only 1 or 2
applications to eradicate it; all scurfy and
moist skin affections, &c., speedily yield to its
influence.
5481.
Benzine for Itch. Benzine, it is
said, will effect a cure for scabies in the course
of half an hour, after which the patient
should take a warm bath for 30 minutes. This
has been highly recommended.
5482. To Cure Salt Rheum. Wash
the part affected with castile soap and water,
dry with a soft cloth ; then wet with tincture
follows : Frequent ablution in warm' water,
keeping the bowels open with saline purga-
tives, and the nightly use of the ointment
given in No. 4957 will generally effect a cure.
Salt food should be avoided as much as possi-
ble, as well as keeping the hands covered with
dough and flour ; the latter being the cause of
the disease.
5485. Remedy for Tetter, Ring-
worm, and Scald-Head. Take 1 pound
simple cerate; sulphuric acid, J pound; mix
together, and it will be ready for use.
5486. Remedy for the Tetter. Dis-
solve 1 ounce sulphuret of potash in 1 quart
of cold soft water; put it into a bottle and
keep it tightly corked. Bathe the eruption 5
or 6 times a day, with a sponge dipped ma lit-
tle of this solution. If the
cold weather, repeat the treatment
an excellent remedy.
5487. Remedy for Barber's Itch and
Tetter. A simple and effectual cure. Moist-
en the part affected with saliva (spittle) and
rub it over thoroughly three times a day with
the ashes of a good Havana segar. Simple as
this remedy may appear, it has cured the
most obstinate cases. '
5488. To Cure Ring-worm. To 1
part sulphuric acid, add 16 to 20 parts water.
Use a brush or feather, and apply it to the
parts night and morning. A few dressings
will generally cure. If the solution is too
strong, dilute it with more water ; and if the
irritation is excessive, rub on a little oil or
other softening application ; but always avoid
tetter reappear ii
eatment. This i
soap.
5489.
Cure for Ring-worm. Wash
the head with soft-soap every morning, and
apply the following lotion every night: 1
MEDICAL .RECEIPTS.
4:79
drachm, sub-carbonate of soda, dissolved in £
pint of vinegar.
5490. To Cure Pimples and other
Eruptions of the Skin. Never tamper
with any breakiug-out on the skin ; even
though it be a single red spot, do not apply
to it so simple a thing as water, hot or cold,
but let it alone, and omit a meal or two ; if it
•ices not abate, consult a physician. If one
is not at hand, then live on half allowance
until it disappears.
5491. Glyconine, or Glycerine Var-
nish for Cutaneous Affections. Take
yolk of egg, 4 parts by weight; rub in a
mortar with 5 parts glycerine. Applied to
the skin it forms a varnish which effectually
excludes the air, and prevents its irritating
effects. It is unalterable (a specimen having
laid exposed to the air for 3 years unchanged),
and is quickly removed by water. These
properties render it serviceable for erysipelas
and cutaneous affections, of which it allays
the action. It is also very valuable for sooth-
ing the irritation resulting from burns.
5492. Cure for Eruptions of the Skin.
Take 2 ounces rasped sarsaparilla root, li
ounces solanum dulcamara (bitter-sweet, or
woody nightshade), li ounces mezereon
bark, i ounce rasped guaiacum wood, and i
ounce sassafras bark. Pour on these 1 quart
boiling water, let it stand 24 hours, and then
boil away slowly to 1^ pints; press, strain,
and add 2 nounds sugar and 1 ounce diluted
spirits of wine. Take a wine-glassful 3 times
a day with 1 grain precipitated gulphurct of
antimony.
5493. Treatment of Sprains. The
great remedy is rest; when severe, rest for
days, to save weeks; the best treatment is
warm fomentations at the time of accident, to
prevent or reduce the swelling and pain, and
arnica, applied by means of rags, to prevent
pain and give strength to the part. The
tincture of arnica is the preparation used. If
the skin is not broken, about 20 to 30 drops,
or even, in severe cases, 60 drops may bo add-
ed to a wine-glassful of water. If the skin is
broken, or any abrasion is present, the
strength of the tincture must bo considerably
reduced ; from 5 to 10 drops will then be suf-
ficient, and if any redness or inflammation
occurs in or about the sprain, in consequence
of using the lotion, leave it off at once and
use only cold water. A firm bandage will be
useful to support the part. "Walking should,
for a considerable time, be only sparingly in-
dulged in after a severe sprain.
5494. Remedy for a Sprain or Bruise.
"Wormwood boiled in vinegar, and applied
hot, with enough cloths wrapped around to
keep the sprain moist. This is an invaluable
remedy.
5495. Sprains of the Wrist and
Ankle. As soon as possible after the acci-
dent, get a muslin bandage 1 or 2 yards long,
and 2 or 3 inches wide ; wet it in cold water,
and roll it smoothly and firmly around the in-
jured part. Keep the limb at rest, exposed
to the air, and continually damp with cold
water. The sooner after the accident the
bandage is applied, the less pain and swelling
there will be ; but if pain becomes excessive,
care must be taken to slightly loosen the ban-
dage.
5496. Sprains of the Muscles of the
Back. Take of Canada turpentine, A ounce ;
soap liniment, 6 ounces; and 1 drachm of
laudanum. Mix, and rub well in before a hot
fire.
5497. Sprain in the Back. The first
thing is rest; take night and morning 15 or
20 drops of the balsam of copaiba. If the
part is inflamed, apply cold water cloths.
Let the bowels be kept gently open by aperi-
ents. "When the inflammation is gone, rub
the part with stimulating liniment. (See No.
4888.)
5498. Treatment of Scratches. Do
not neglect them. "Wash them in cold water;
close them as much as you can, and cover
with diachylon plaster. If there is inflamma-
tion, apply a bread poultice, or one of slippery
elm.
5499. To Extract Splinters. Thorns
and splinters finding their way under the
skin frequently give considerable pain, and,
unless extracted, the annoyance may be very
great, as inflammation will in all probability
ensue, which is the process nature adopts for
getting rid of the cause of irritation. If the
splinter or thorn cannot be immediately ex-
tracted, for which purpose a needle will be
found in most cases a sufficient surgical in-
strument, linen dipped in hot water ought
to be bound around the place, or the part may
be bathed in hot water. In the event of in-
flammation, which may probably issue on the
production of an ulcer, the steam of hot water
should be applied, and afterwards a poultice
of bread and milk.
5500. Treatment of Cuts. The divi-
ded parts should be drawn close together, and
held so with small pieces of strapping or ad-
hesive plaster stretched across the wound, or
by the application of collodion. If the part
be covered with blood, it should be first wiped
off with a sponge. "When the wound is large,
and the parts much exposed, a good method
ia to sew it up. The application of a little
creosote will generally stop local bleeding, pro-
vided it be applied to tho clean extremities of
the wounded vessels. A good way is to place
a piece of lint, moistened with creosote, on
the wound previously wiped clean, or to pour
a drop or two of that liquid upon it. Friar's
balsam, quick-drying copal varnish, tincture
of galls, copperas water, black ink, &G., are
popular remedies applied in the same way.
A bit of the fur plucked from a black beaver
hat is an excellent remedy to stop the bleed-
ing from a cut produced by the razor in shav-
ing. For light cuts with a knife, or any
sharp instrument, the Eiga balsam usually
stops the bleeding immediately. (See Lock-
jaw. )
5501. Artificial Skin for Cuts, &c.
A small quantity of collodion applied with a
brush to a cut or wound will produce a per-
fect artificial covering which is more elastic
than plaster, and sufficiently insoluble in cold
water.
5502. Traumaticine, or Water-proof
Covering for Wounds. This article is
simply a solution of white and dry pure
unmanufactured gutta-percha in bisulphuret
of carbon. Dropped on a wound or raw sur-
face, it almost instantly forms a pliable, wa-
ter-proof, and air-tight defensive covering to
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
the part resembling, in appearance, gold-
beater's skin. The fetid odor of the bisul-
phuret is lost in a few seconds. Chloroform,
which has an agreeable odor, may be use 'I as
the solvent, but is very much more expensive
than the bisulphuret of carbon.
5503. Treatment of Bed-Sores. Re-
move the excessive discharge by gently press-
ing the part with a bit of cotton wadding ;
then paint the sore over with prepared collo-
dion (see No. 4744), using a soft camel-hair
pencil. The application may bo repeated
daily, and when it has well dried place a
bit of soft lint or cotton wadding over the
part for protection.
5504. Detergents. Deterge means to
cleanse. Detergents remove unwholesome
matters adhering to and obstructing the
vessels; usually applied to foul ulcers, &c.,
as tincture of myrrh, honey, alum, water,
turpentine, &c.
5505. Treatment of Ulcers. An ulcer
is an injury done to the flesh, from which
issues matter, or some kind of discharge, with
more or less pain and inflammation. The
common ulcer should be kept clean and cool,
and protected from the atmosphere, especially
in frosty or cold weather. It should be wash-
ed now and then with warm soap-water. Put
upon it a little lint, wet occasionally with
salt and water, and put over it the black
salve. (See No. 4971.) Perhaps the best
dressing is the saturnine cerate. (See No.
4968.) Poultices made of the oak bark or
sumach bark may be used alternately.
5506. Treatment of Severe Ulcers.
Sometimes ulcers are very irritable, tender,
and painful, and discharge a thin acrid fluid.
They should be steamed every night with a
bitter decoction, and occasionally washed
with an infusion of chamomile flowers, or
a strong decoction of wild cherry bark, with
a little spirit. Apply a poultice of slippery
elm, mixed with a strong decoction of poplar
bark, and a trifle of salt. Repeat as required.
If the ulcer or ulcers are indolent, steam as
before, and apply the cancer plaster (see No.
5047,) with only a trifle of the white vitriol
mixed with it; or, sprinkle the ulcer with
powdered blood-root. Sometimes ulcers be-
come very much inflamed, and assume a livici
color ; they are covered with small vesicles
or blisters, as in mortification. "Wash the
ulcer with tincture of myrrh, and apply a
poultice made of charcoal, yeast, slippery
elm, ginger, and a minute portion of tincture
of cayenne. Bear it as long as possible
Then apply the saturnine cerate. (See No
4968.)
5507. Beach's Remedy for Ulcers.
The following is recommended by Dr. Beach
Take sweet clover tops and stalks, burdock
leaves, and parsley, a handful of each ; ge
the strength out by boiling ; strain, and add '.
pound of resin and J pound of fresh butter
simmer until of a proper consistence. A cole
water cloth constantly applied is a good rem
cdy. Put a little cerate on the ulcer previ
ously. Attend to the general health by
cleansing the stomach and bowels, and then
giving tonics.
5508. To Disinfect and Deodorize
Foul Ulcers. Permanganate of potassc
disinfects rapidly the most fetid ulcers, in
he proportion of 2 scruples of the 'salt to
ounces of water as a lotion or injection.
'he most favorable method is to cover the
wound with lint soaked with that substance,
and to place above this a layer of raw cotton,
he latter having the property of filtering the
air, and to retain the germs which determine
utrid fermentation. In cancers of the womb
t is necessary to repeat the injections several
imes a day,
5509. Ulcers in the Mouth. If the
ulcers are not of a syphilitic origin, a local
wash of carbolic acid or permanganate of
iotassa will speedily cure them ; say 1 part of
,cid or permanganate to 100 of water. If
hey are, however, syphilitic, the wash of
jarbolic acid, perhaps 2 or 3 times as strong,
n combination with internal treatment, will
)e found beneficial ; the wash may be used 3
imes a day.
5510. Treatment of Running1 Sores
on the Legs. Wash them in brandy, and
apply elder leaves, changing twice a day.
Dhis will dry up all the sores, though the
egs were like a honey-comb. Or, poultice
them with rotten apples. But take also a
rarge once or twice every week.
5511. Fine Clay as a Dressing to
Sores. Dr. Schreber, of Leipdc, recom-
mends the use of clay as the most energetic,
most innocent, simple, and economical of
palliative applications to surfaces yielding
oul and moist discharges. He moreover
;onsiders that it has a specific action in ac-
3elerating the cure. Clay softened down in
water, and freed from all gritty particles, is
laid, layer by layer, over the affected part.
If it becomes dry and falls off, fresh layers are
applied to the cleansed surface. The irrita-
ting secretion is rapidly absorbed by the clay,
and the contact of air prevented. The cure
thus goes on rapidly. This clay ointment
has a decisive action in cases of fetid pers-
Eiration of the feet or armpits. A single
lyer applied in the morning will destroy
all odor in the day. It remains a long
time supple, and the pieces which fall off in
fine powder produce no inconvenience.
(Brit. Med. Journ.) "We can corroborate Dr.
Schreber's observations, having used fine
clay poultices for several years, chiefly,
however, in cases of local inflammation re-
quiring the application of cold. Bags wet in
water, or Goulard water, so rapidly become
dry and hot that the benefit from the cold
application is completely lost. There is no
dirt when the clay is enveloped in a piece of
fine linen, and is not too fluid in consistence.
(Braitliwaitc.')
5512. Treatment of Burns. In regard
to the treatment of bums there is a great di-
versity of opinion, scarcely any two surgeons
agreeing as to the remedies. All of them are
doubtless valuable, but there is one which
has a great reputation (namely, carron oil,
see No. 5513). The great objection to it is
its offensive odor, rendering an entire hospi-
tal ward disagreeable. In all cases of burns
and scalds, it is necessary to observe that, if
fever should ensue, laxative medicines ought
to be given; as castor oil, or salts and senna.
5513. Carron Oil. This is composed
of equal parts linseed oil and limewater, and
should be well shaken before using.
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
481
5514. Treatment of Recent Burns.
When recently inflicted, nothing tends more
decidedly to soothe or deaden the suffering
than cold water; the burnt part should,
therefore, be immediately placed in cold wa-
ter, or thin cloths dipped in cold water should
be applied and frequently renewe£ over the
injured surface. After the lapse of a short
time, when the cold fails to relieve, rags dip-
ped in carron oil (see No. 5513). are, to be
substituted for the water, care being taken
to keep the rags moist with the oily mixture
until the burn heals ; this is the main point
in the treatment ; the rag or linen must not
be removed or changed. The carron oil may
be applied from the first if it is at hand ; but,
cold water being nearly always to be had,
will be found very grateful until assistance
arrives. ' A large bottle of carron oil should
be kept in every nursery cupboard, or in
every house, in a place easy of access, a large
label being affixed to it, with plain direc-
tions.
5515. Treatment of Superficial
Burns. When the burn is very superficial,
simply inflaming or vesicating the part, cov-
ering it up with flour, and then placing a
layer of cotton over it, so as to exclude the
air, makes a very comfortable dressing. An-
other method consists in applying cold wa-
ter; and another, warm water covered with
oiled silk and a bandage. Glyconine or gly-
cerine varnish (see No. 5491) is also a valua-
ble remedy. Lard, deprived of salt, and sim-
ple cerate, make pleasant applications.
5516. Gross' Treatment of Burns.
The profession is indebted to Prof. Gross for
the introduction of white lead and linseed oil
in the treatment of burns. It is one of the
very best applications which can be used,
effectually excluding the air, and being
always grateful to the patient. In all cases,
no matter whether merely the skin or the
deeper structures are involved, white lead,
rubbed up with linseed oil to the consistence
of paste or paint, and placed on with a brush,
will be found productive of great relief.
There does not appear to be any risk from
the constitutional influence of the lead,
though it has been suggested, to counteract
any tendency of this kind, that the patient
should take occasionally a little sulphate of
magnesia.
5517. Burns and Scalds. Every family
should have a preparation of flaxseed oil,
chalk, and vinegar, about the consistency of
thick paint, constantly on hand for burns and
scalds. A noted retired physician states that
he has used it in hospital and private practice
for the past forty years, and believes that no
application can compare with it, as regards
relief of pain and curative results.
5518. Remedy for Scalding. Apply a
poultice of slippery elm bark and milk, and,
when the inflammation has left, apply black
salve. (See No. 4971.) For very slight burns,
the black salve alone will cure. The slippery
elm poultice is a sovereign remedy, and has
effected the greatest cures. Dr. Beach relates
a case of severe scalding, in which a poultice
of slippery elm bark and olive oil alone very
soon arrested the inflammation and acute
sufferings of the patient, to the astonishment
wf all who witnessed the cure.
5519. Remedy for Scalded Mouth.
In cases of scalding the mouth with hot li-
quids, gargle with a solution of borax, and
then hold in the mouth a mucilage of slippery
elm, swallowing it slowly, if the throat also
has been scalded ; the slippery elm bark may
be mixed with olive oil. Some recommend
soap liniment, but the latter must not be swal-
lowed.
5520. To Cure Slight Burns. When a
burn is only trifling, and causes no blister, it is
sufficient to apply a compress of several folds
of soft linen upon it, dipped in cold water in
which has been dissolved a little carbonate of
soda; to be renewed every 15 minutes until the
pain is removed. Dr. Tissot says, in cases of
blisters, beat up an egg with 2 table-spoonfuls
olive oil or linseed oil, spread it on soft linen,
and apply it to the affected part. For very
slight burns or scalds, the black salve alone is
sufficient to remove the pain and inflamma-
tion. (Sec No. 4971.) If the skn is not
broken, cover the part with a layer of flour
or starch, place cotton wool over it, or a
linen rag, and bind it over lightly. If a
blister has been burst or cut, use a cerate.
5521. Carbolic Acid for Burns or
Scalds. The best application in cases of
burns or scalds is a mixture of 1 part of car-
bolic acid to 8 of olive oil. Lint or linen rags
are to be saturated in the lotion, and spread
smoothly over the burned part, which should
then be covered with oiled silk or gutta-percha
tissue, to exclude the air. The dressing may
be left on from 2 to 3 days, and should then
be reapplied, exposing the burn as short a
time as possible to the air.
5522. Oil of Brown Paper. Dip a
piece of thick brown paper into the best
salad oil. Set the paper on fire upon a plate,
and the oil that drops from it is a good remedy
for burns.
5523. Treatment of Burns and Dis-
colorations Caused by Gunpowder. Dr.
Davies, in a recent number of the London
Lancet, states that he has found the following
treatment most successful: Smear the scorch-
ed surface with glycerine, by means of a
feather, then apply cotton wadding; lastly,
cover with oil silk. In one case the discolora-
tion was very great, the patient looking more
like a mummy than a living being. It entirely
subsided in a month by the above treatment.
5524. Nature of Rheumatism. Kheu-
matism is a diseased condition of the fibrous
and muscular tissues, chiefly affecting the
larger joints; the heart and diaphragm are
also liable to be affected by it. It is a pro-
moting cause of heart disease. The principal
forms of rheumatism are these: When the
joints about the back and loins arc affected
the complaint is known as lumbago ; pains
in the hip joints are designated sciatica.
5525. Causes of Rheumatism. The
causes of rheumatism are various. Vicissi-
tudes of temperature are the most common ;
occupying a damp bed for a single night is
sufficient to engender the disease. Such per-
sons as blacksmiths, who are exposed to
severe changes of temperature, are generally
victims to the complaint. Miners and per-
sons employed in smelting-furnaces are often
severe sufferers. There is likewise a hered-
itary tendency to the malady, 'which a
4:82
slight cold will develop. Kheumatism
proceeds from a vitiated condition of the
blood. A hereditary taint in the circulating
fluid may be developed by a slight cold, but
more commonly the blood becomes vitiated
through mal-assimilation and a faulty diges-
tive action. The precise principle of the
poison engendered has not yet been fully
ascertained. It is generally believed to be
lactic acid.
5526. Premonitory Symptoms of
Rheumatism. An attack of rheumatism is
imminent when a stiffness is felt in the joints,
combined with a dryness of the skin and a
burning thirst. The variety of the complaint
of which these signs are the precursors is
termed acute. The other variety is chronic
rheumatism. The latter may be described as
an aggravated condition of the former, though
some persons not only describe them as
quite distinct, but introduce a variety be-
tween them.
5527. Treatment of Rheumatism.
In the early stages, when there is much thirst,
a refreshing saline drink will be beneficial;
cold water may be freely allowed, but acid
drinks must not be given without consulting
the doctor, as they may not agree with his
medicines. A correspondent of the Medical
Circular vouches for the relief ho has expe-
rienced in the liberal use of lime (or lemon)
juice, while laboring under the paroxysms of
rheumatism. By persistent use of the above
simple acid for the space of 3 days, avoiding
all stimulating liquids, the most confirmed
rheumatism will, he says, relax, and the tone
of the muscular and nervous system will be
restored to its usual character.
5528. Local Remedies for Rheuma-
tism. Unless anything else is ordered, cot-
ton-wadding wrapped around the swollen
joints, and covered with oil silk, will be found
grateful ; a kind of local vapor bath is pro-
duced by it. If this is not agreeable, rags
may be dipped in a saturated solution of
nitre in water, and applied, care being taken
to keep them moist ; oiled silk should be ap-
plied round these as well.
5529. Treatment of Chronic Rheu-
matism. "When rheumatism becomes chronic,
the general health, particularly the diet in
connection with the digestive powers, must
be attended to with great care. The attacks
often arise from pure debility, and will then
be best cured by tonics and good food.
5530. Simple Remedy for Rheuma-
tism. Bathe the parts affected with water
in which potatoes have been boiled, as hot as
can be borne, just before going to bed ; by the
next morning the pain will be much relieved,
if not removed. One application of this sim-
ple remedy has cured the most obstinate
rheumatic pains.
5531. Dover's Rheumatic Pow-
der. Ipecacuanha powder, and purified
opium, of each 1 part ; sulphate of potassa,
8 parts; triturate them together to a fine
powder. Be very careful to reduce the opium,
and intimately mix with the rest. This pow-
der is recommended by Dr. Dover as an
effectual remedy for rheumatism. The dose
is from 2 to 5 grains, repeated. Avoid much
drinking after taking it, or it might act as an
emotic.
RECEIPTS.
5532. Remedy for Rheumatism.
Take 3 ounce each black cohosh root, golden
seal, and nerve powder ; 1 pint of ruin. Mix.
Dose, i table-spoonful 3 times a day. The
most obstinate cases of rheumatism have
yielded to the above simple remedy.
5533. Speedy Cure for Rheumatism.
Dr. K. H. 'Boyd states that he cures inflam-
matory rheumatism in from 3 to 7 days by
the following method : Give first a full emetio
dose of tartar emetic (li to 2 grains), and
when this hag operated, 5 drops laudanum
and 5 drops tincture of colchicum, every 3
or 4 hours, and a tea-spoonful of a half- pint
mixture, containing 4 drachms acetate of po-
tassa, every hour. When the patient becomes
very hungry, and is quite free from pain,
having fasted several days, ho allows 2 table-
spoonfuls of milk or 1 oyster 3 times a day,
increasing the quantity gradually each day.
5534. Remedy for Inflammatory
Rheumatism. Gelseminum, administered
in doses of 5 to 30 drops, is a very serviceable
remedy. The dose should be repeated at in-
tervals until the pain and inflammation .dis-
appear.
5535. Rheumatic Alterative. Mace-
rate for 3 or 4 days i ounce each colchicum
seed and black cohosh root, both well bruised,
in 1 pint best rye whiskey. A dessert-spoon-
ful 3 times a day, before meals, has been
found a valuable remedy in chronic rheuma-
tism.
5536. Indian Remedy for Rheuma-
tism. Macerate the following ingredients
for a few days in 1 quart rye whiskey f 1 ounce
bark of wahoo root, 1 ounce blood root, 2
ounces black cohosh root, £ ounce swamp
hellebore, 1 ounce prickly ash bark, and 1
ounce poke root cut fine. Dose, 1 tea-spoon-
ful every 3 or 4 hours, increasing the dose as
the stomach will bear it.
5537. Spanish Cure for Chronic and
Syphilitic Rheumatism. Take 4 ounces
sarsaparilla, 1 ounce rasped guaiacum wood,
2 ounces extract of sarsaparilla, i ounce crude
antimony. Tie them in a linen rag with 10
drachms English walnut hulls (or black wal-
nut), and boil in 3 pints water down to 2 pints ;
strain. Dose, a wine-glassful every hour.
5538. Jackson's Cure for Chronic
Rheumatism. 1 drachm cajeput oil ; %
ounce syrup of myrrh; 3J ounces syrup of
gum-arabic. Dose, 1 tea-spoonful 3 times a
day.
5539. Caution to Painters. Painters
should seldom wash their hands in turpentine,
as the practice, if persisted in, will lead to the
most serious results, even to the loss of power
in the wrist joints. It has a tendency to en-
largo the finger joints, renders the hands
more sensitive to cold in winter, and lays the
foundation of rheumatism.
5540. Rheumatic Decoction. Virginia
snake-root, 1 drachm ; sarsaparilla in powder,
6 drachms; burdock seed, 2 drachms; poke
root, 2 drachms; wine-pine bark, 2 drachms;
cayenne pepper, \ drachm. Powder them,
and add 3 quarts of water. Boil down to 2
quarts. A cupful 2 or 3 times a day. It is
most valuable in chronic rheumatism.
5541. Lumbago. It is a species of
chronic rheumatism, which affects the muscles
of the lower part of the back, causing great
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
483
pain and stiffness. The patient can scarcely
stir without having the most piercing pain.
It may be confined to one side, or affect the
loins generally. Its attacks are generally
sudden, immediately after or in stooping, or
rising from bed. Lumbago is connected with
derangement of the stomach, bowels, and kid-
neys.
5542. Remedy for Lumbago. Recti-
fied oil of turpentine, 25 drops; sulphuric
ether, 1 scruple; mucilage of gum-arabic, 3
drachms ; syrup of poppies, 1 drachm ; rose-
water, li ounces; make into a draught; take
at bed-time.
5543. Remedy for a Weak Back.
Take a beefs gall, pour it into 1 pint alcohol,
and bathe frequently.
5544. Remedy for Neuralgia. A
remedy said to be efficacious consists in apply-
ing bruised horse-radish to the wrist on the
side of the body where the pain is.
5545. Excellent Remedy for Neural-
gia. A remedy, which is sometimes instan-
taneously successful, is mixing equal parts of
sweet oil, spirits of hartshorn, and chloroform ;
shake it well, and before time is allowed for
its particles to separate, wet a bit of rag or
lint, place it on the painful spot for about a
minute, or less if relieved sooner, but hold a
handkerchief on the lint, so as to confine the
volatile ingredients ; if kept on too long, the
skin may be taken off.
5546. Effective Cure for Neuralgia.
Apply a blister of Spanish flies, and let it re-
main until it draws the skin red (not longer);
then take it off, and apply a morphine powder.
This is often very effectual.
5547. Jackson's Neuralgia Remedy.
Llix Ik drachms iodide of potassa, 15 grains
Milphate of quinine, 1 ounce ginger syrup,
and 2A ounces water. Dose, a table-spoonful
every 3 hours.
5548. Whitlow, or Felon. The severity
of the inflammation in whitlow varies consid-
erably ; there is the mild form, which gener-
ally yields to fomentation with hot water
cloths or poultices; and if matter forms, if
relieved by the lancet, it speedily heals ; but
there is a much more formidable affection, in
which the deep textures of the finger are in-
volved, accompanied by severe pain, throb-
bing, and much redness, heat, and swelling.
This form is only to be relieved by free and
early incisions with the lancet; for if this be
neglected, the bones will become affected, and
will be destroyed. It would therefore be ad-
visable to submit the finger to the inspection
of a surgeon when it does not easily yield to
fomentations or a poultice.
5549. Treatment of Whitlow. Steam
the whole hand with bitter herbs for 30 or 40
minutes ; bathe it frequently in strong hot lye
water. The steaming must not be dispensed
with. Or: Immerse the diseased finger in
strong lye as long and as hot as can be borne
several times a day. Apply a poultice of lin-
seed and slippery elm, with a little salt and
brandy. % The formation of matter is indi-
cated by a small white spot in the center of
the swelling. When this appears, open it
with the point of a large needle or probe, that
the matter may escape. Repeat if necessary.
If proud flesh appears, apply the vegetable
caustic or chloride of potassium, diluted. A
poultice of powdered hops is very effectual to
relieve pain. Apply the black salve (see No.
4971), to heal it. Attend to the general health,
by giving aperients, tonics, and nutritious
cooling diet.
5550. Simple Cure for a Felon. As
soon as the parts begin to swell get the tinc-
ture of lobelia, and wrap the part affected
with cloth saturated thoroughly with the tinc-
ture, and the felon is dead. An old physician
says that he has known it to cure in scores
of cases, and it never fails if applied in sea-
son.
5551. Bone Felon. The following re
ceipt for the cure of bone felon is given by
that high authority, the London Lancet: As
soon as the disease is felt, put directly over
the spot a blister of Spanish fly, about the size
of the thumb nail, and let it remain for 6
hours, at the expiration of which time, direct-
ly under the surface of the blister may be
seen the felon, which can be instantly taken
out with the point of a needle or a lancet.
5552. To Cure Felons. Stir J tea-
spoonful water into 1 ounce Venice turpentine
with a rough stick until the mixture appears
like granulated honey. "Wrap a good coating
of it round the finger with a cloth. If the
felon is only recent, the pain will be removed
in 6 hours.
5553. Treatment of Boils. "When
these appear, suppuration should be promoted
by poultices of bread and linseed meal, to
which a little glycerine or fat or oil may be
added, to prevent their getting hard. When
poultices are inconvenient, exposure to the
vapor of hot water, or the application of
stimulating plasters, may be adopted instead.
When sufficiently ripe, the boil should be
opened with a lancet, the matter evacuated,
and the wound dressed with a little simple
ointment spread on a piece of clean lint or
linen. The diet may be full and liberal until
the maturation of the tumor and the discharge
of the matter, when it should be lessened,
and the bowels opened by some saline purga-
tives, as salts or cream of tartar. When
there is a disposition in the constitution to
the formation of boils, the bowels should be
kept regular, and tonics, as bark or steel, ta-
ken, with the frequent use of sea-bathing, if
possible.
5554. Carbuncle. A carbuncle is a
species of boil, but larger, and much more
painful. It shows debility in the constitution.
Carbuncles are very dangerous, and medical
advice should at once be obtained.
5555. Astringents. Substances that
constrict the animal fibre, and coagulate albu-
men. When employed to check bleeding,
they are called styptics. The principal vege-
table astringents are catechu, kino, galls, and
oak bark; the principal mineral astringents
are sulphate of iron, nitrate of silver, chloride
of zinc, sulphate of copper, acetate of lead, <tc.
5556. To Stop Bleeding. If a man is
wounded so that blood flows, that flow is
either regular or by jets or spirts. If it flows
regularly, a vein has been wounded, and a
string should be bound tightly around below
the wounded part, that is, beyond it from the
heart. If the blood comes out by leaps or
jets, an artery has been severed, and the person
may bleed to death in a ft w minutes ; to pro-
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
vent which, apply the cord above the wound,
that is, between the wound and the heart. In
ease a string or cord is not at hand, tie the
two opposite corners of a handkerchief around
the limb, put a stick between, and turn it
round until the handkerchief is twisted suffi-
ciently tight to stop the bleeding, and keep it
BO until a physician can be had. This appli-
ance is called a tourniquet.
5557. To Stop the Bleeding from
Leeches. Make a ball of cotton about the
size of a pea ; put this pellet of cotton or lint
upon the wound ; press it down firmly ; keep
up the pressure for a quarter of an hour. Ee-
move the finger cautiously, taking care to let
the pellet remain.
5558. Pancoast's Styptic. Take car-
bonate of potash, 1 drachm ; castile soap, 2
drachms ; alcohol, 4 ounces. Mix. This styp-
tic has been found preferable to the persulphate
of iron in many of the minor cases of hemor-
rhage, inasmuch as it leaves the surface of
the stump in a healthy condition, and does
not produce the thick incrustation so often
objectionable after the application of the iron.
5559. Styptic Collodion. This is made
by uniting equal parts of collodion and chlor-
ide of iron. It is recommended for erysipelas.
5560. Ehrle's New Preparation of
Cotton for Stanching1 Hemorrhage.
American cotton of the best quality should
be cleansed by boiling it for an hour in a weak
solution of soda (about 4 per cent.), then re-
peatedly washed in cold water, pressed out,
and dried. By this process it will be perfectly
cleansed and adapted to more ready absorp-
tion. After this it should be steeped once or
twice, according to the degree of strength
required, in liquid perchloride of iron, diluted
with $• water, pressed, and thoroughly dried
in the air — neither in the sun nor by the fire —
then lightly pulled out. The cotton so pre-
pared will be of a yellowish-brown color. It
must be kept very dry, as it is affected by the
damp.
5561. Styptic Paper. A mode for
carrying about chloride of iron as a ready
styptic has been invented in Paris, which con-
sists in dipping paper in a decoction of 1
pound benzoin and 1 pound alum in 4 gallons
water, which has been kept boiling for 4
hours, with renewal and skimming. The pa-
per is left in the filtered solution for some time
until saturated ; it is then dried, and painted
over with a neutral solution of perchloride of
iron ; this is then dried, folded, and wrapped
in an impervious cover.
5562. New Styptic Collodion. Collo-
dion, 100 parts; carbolic acid, 10 parts; pure
tannin, 5 parts ; benzoic acid, 5 parts. Agi-
tate until the mixture is complete. This pre-
paration, which has a brown color, leaves on
evaporation a pellicle exactly similar to that
of ordinary collodion. It adheres strongly to
the tissues, and effects the instantaneous co-
agulation of blood and albumen. Tannin ef-
fects a consistent coagulation of the blood,
whilst benzoic acid has a cicatrizing action on
the tissues.
5563. Spitting of Blood. In cases of
spitting of blood, it is often difficult to deter-
mine whether it proceeds from the internal
surface of the mouth, from the throat, from
the stomach, or fro» the lungs. "When the
blood is of a florid or frothy appearance, and
brought up with more or less coughing, pre-
ceded by a short tickling cough, a saltish
taste, anxiety, and tightness across the chest,
its source is the lungs. The blood proceeding
from the lungs is usually of a florid color, and
mixed with a little frothy mucous only. It
may be distinguished from bleeding from the
stomach, by its being raised by hacking or
coughing, and by its florid and frothy appear-
ance; that from the stomach is vomited in
considerable quantities, and is of a dark
color.
5564. Treatment for Spitting of
Blood. Moderate the discharge of blood by
avoiding whatever tends to irritate the body
and increase the action of the heart. A low
diet should be strictly observed, and external
heat and bodily exercise avoided ; the air of
the room should be cool, and the drink
(which should consist chiefly of barley-water,
acidulated with lemon-juice), taken cold, and
the patient not suffered to exert his voice.
After the operation of a little gentle aperient
medicine, as lenitive electuary, or an infusion
of senna, with a little cream of tartar dis-
solved in it, take 10 drops of laudanum and
10 drops of elixir of vitriol in half a cupful of
cold water. If there is no cough, the lauda-
num may be omitted. A little salt and water
given will often check spitting of blood, when
it comes on. Put the feet in warm water,
and give as above, the elixir of vitriol, <tc.
Give also ipecacuanha powder in small doses
of from 1 to 2 grains every 4 hours.
5565. Bleeding from the Nose.' This
may be «aused by violence, or may arise
from an impoverished state of the blood.
"When it occurs in persons of middle age it ia
more serious, as it is then often a symptom
of some other disease. The bleeding can
generally be stopped by making the patient
raise both his arms above his head, and hold
them there for some time. Sponging with
cold or iced water to the forehead and face,
or applying a towel wet with cold water be-
tween the shoulders, will, in most cases, suc-
ceed. The application of a strong solution of
alum or iron-alum to the inside of the nostrils,
or plugging the nostrils with lint or cotton
wool soaked in the solution, m«ay be necessary
if the bleeding is profuse. The health of per-
sons subject to these attacks should be im-
proved by nutritious diet, animal food, with
potatoes, water-cresses, and fruit. The fol-
lowing prescription may be relied on : Tinc-
ture of steel, 2 drachms; dilute muriatic acid,
1 drachm ; syrup of orange peel, 1 ounce ;
infusion of calumba, 7 ounces. Mix. For a
child, 1 table-spoonful in a wine-glass of water
before meals; for an adult the dose may be
increased.
5566. To Stop Bleeding at the Nose.
Placing a small roll of paper or muslin
above the front teeth, under the upper lip,
and pressing hard on the same, will arrest
bleeding from the nose, checking the pas-
sage of blood through the arteries leading to
the nose.
5567. Astringent for Leech-Bites.
Dissolve 1 part of crystallized perchloride of
iron in 6 parts of collodion very gradually.
A drop or two of the product forms an ad-
mirable styptic.
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
485
5568. Antispasmodics. Medicines
that allay spasms and other pains. Bark,
opium, camphor, ether, musk, castor, assa-
fetida. valerian, and chalybeates, are anti-
spasmodics.
5569. Nervines — sometimes called
neurotics — are substances or agents •which re-
lieve disorders of the nerves. Antispasmod-
ics, chalybeates, and vegetable tonics belong
to this class.
5570. Treatment of Nervousness.
The cure of nervousness is best effected by
restoring the healthy action of the stomach
and bowels, and by the use of proper exercise,
especially in the open air. The stomach
should not be overloaded with indigestible
food, and the bowels should be occasionally
relieved by the use of some mild aperient.
Abernethy's injunction to a nervous and dys-
peptic lady, " Dismiss your servants, madam,
and make your own beds," should be recollect-
ed by all as a proof of the importance that
eminent surgeon attached to exercise. 'Va-
lerian is a medicine of great use in nervous
disorders, hysteria, lowness of spirits, restless-
ness, and diseases of the bladder, <fcc. The
common dose is from a scruple to a drachm,
in powder; and in infusion from 1 to 2
drachms. Its unpleasant flavor may be neu-
tralized by the addition of mace. Assafoetida
is also recommended. Take assafoetida, 1£
drachms; water, 6 fluid ounces. Dose, 1 to
3 table-spoonfuls thrice or ofteuer, daily. But
there is no remedy for nervous disorders of
every kind, comparable to the proper and
constant use of magnetic electricity.
5571. Nerve Powder. Take 1 ounce
each of scullcap, valerian and catnip ; and cay-
enne, 1 drachm ; coriander seeds, \ ounce.
Pulverize, and mix. Take 1 tea-spoonful in a
cupful of boiling water, leaving room for milk
and sugar. Eepeat according to the symp-
toms. This powder tranquillizes the most
irritable nerves without debilitating and dead-
ening their sensibility. It greatly strengthens
the nerves.
5572. Nervous Mixture. Liquid car-
bonate of ammonia, h drachm; compound
tincture of cardamom, i ounce ; oil of laven-
der, 8 drops ; mint water, 3 ounces ; mix,
and take in two or three doses. It is inval-
uable.
5573. Nervous Pill. Assafoetida, ex-
tract of hops, carbonate of ammonia, of each
1 ounce ; . extract of valerian, 20 grains. Dis-
solve the first two ingredients over the fire,
then take off, and add the others ; mix well,
and with a few drops of the oil of lavender,
and a little powdered liquorice, form into
pills. Dose, 1 or 2 once or twice a day.
Valuable in all nervous and hysterical dis-
orders.
5574. Nervous Tincture. Compound
tincture of bark, 2 ounces; ammoniated tinc-
ture of valerian, Ik ounces; compound tincture
of aloes, k ounce. Mix. Good for general
weakness, low spirits, and nervous irritabil-
ity. Two tea-spoonfuls twice a day. (See
No. 5570.)
5575. Mixture of Valerian and Car-
bonate of Ammonia. An excellent remedy
for nervous headache and depression of spirits.
Mix 3 drops oil of valerian and 10 grains car-
bonate of ammonia with Ik fluid ounces
cinnamon water and i fluid ounce syrup.
One-half to be taken every 4 hours.
5576. Remedy for Spasms. Take of
acetate of morphia, 1 grain ; spirit of sal- vola-
tile and sulphuric ether, of each 1 fluid ounce ;
camphor julep, 4 fluid ounces. Mix. It
should be kept closely corked, in a cool place,
and should be well shaken before use. Dose,
1 tea-spoonful in a glassful of cold water or
wine, as required.
5577. Hypochondriasis, or Low
Spirits. Hypochondriacs, low spirits, or
" blues," is a peculiar state of the mind, ac-
companied with indigestion. The principal
objects of treatment are, to remove the indi-
gestion, to strengthen the body, and to en-
liven the spirits; and one of the best plans
with which we are acquainted for this is
constant exercise and change of place, with a
warm bath about thrice a week ; early hours,
regular meals, and pleasant conversation ; the
bowels being at the same time carefully reg-
ulated by the occasional use of a mild pill,
and the stomach strengthened -by some appro-
priate tonic medicine.
5578. To Dissolve Quinine. Sulphate
of quinine (sometimes called simply quinine)
when forming a part of a fluid mixture, must
be dissolved in sulphuric acid before com-
pounding with the other ingredients. In
most of the fluid receipts which contain qui-
nine, a small quantity of the acid is prescribed
solely for this purpose ; it should be added to
the quinine drop by drop, and only sufficient
used to make a perfect solution.
5579. Remedy for Fever and Ague.
Peruvian bark, 2 ounces; wild-cherrv tree
bark, 1 ounce ; cinnamon, 1 drachm, all pul-
verized ; capsicum, 1 tea-spoonful ; sulphur, 1
ounce ; port wine, 2 quarts. Let stand a day
or two. Always buy the Peruvian bark and
pulverize it, as most ready pulverized articles
are adulterated. This is the reason why more
»cures are not performed by it. Dose, a wine-
glassful every 2 or 3 hours in the day until
broken ; then 2 or 3 a day until all is used.
This mixture will be found an infallible cure
for intermittent fever and fever and ague. It
removes the disease when all other means fail,
and may be used by those who object to qui-
nine.
5580. Cure for Ague. To 5 tea-spoon-
fuls water, add 50 drops tincture of gelsemi-
num and 10 grains quinine. Shake well before
using. Administer 1 tea-spoonful in a wine-
glass of sugar water every 2 hours. This
medicine has a tendency to affect the head
and vision, and produce physical prostration.
"When these symptoms become developed,
cease the doses, and the effects will pass
off, leaving the patient completely restored.
These directions must be adhered to, as gel-
seminum, administered after its effects have
become apparent, may be attended with
serious consequences. (See No. 5578.) This
is an excellent remedy.
5581. Dr. Krieder's Ague Pills. Take
20 grains quinine, 10 grains Dover's powder,
(see No. 5176), 10 grains sub-carbonate of
iron ; mix with molasses or mucilage of gum-
arabic, and divide into 20 pills. Dose, 2 each
hour, commencing 5 hours before the chill
should set in. Then take one night and morn-
ing until all are taken. (See No. 5584.)
486
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5582. Quinine Mixture for Children.
For small children nothing is better than 5 or
6 grains dissolved (see No. 5578) quinine in
a Bounce vial, 1 table-spoonful of white sugar,
then fill with water. Dose, 1 table-spoonful
as above.
5583. Caution in the Use of Quinine.
In all cases where quinine is to be adminis-
tered, first give a cathartic to cleanse the
stomach and bowels.
5584. Ague Mixture. Dissolve 20 grains
quinine, mix it with 1 pint diluted gin or
port-wine, and add 10 grains Dover's pow-
der (see No. 5176), and 10 grains sub-carbon-
ate of iron. Dose, a wine-g}ass each hour
until the ague is broken, and then 2 or 3 times
a day till the whole has been used. This is
receipt No. 5581, in a liquid form. It may be
used when the pills are objectionable.
5585. Remedy for Cold in the Head.
Pollion, of Prance, recommends the inhaling
of hartshorn for curing colds in the head. The
inhalation by the nose he recommends 7 or 8
times in 5 minutes. Spirits of camphor may
be used in the same manner with beneficial
results.
5586. Catarrh. There is perhaps no
complaint so common as catarrh, or cold in
the head ; it occurs both in winter and sum-
mer; and it is generally said that a summer
cold is more difficult to get rid of than a win-
ter one. The attack sets in with pains in the
limbs and back, lassitude, and a sense of
tightness across the forehead, repeated sneez-
ing, watery and inflamed eyes, and increased
discharge from the nose ; sometimes there is
inflammation of the throat and tonsils, and
an eruption of vesicles about the lips.
5587. To Cure Catarrh. Remedies
without number have been recommended for
catarrh, but few are better than the old-fash-
ioned plan — putting the feet into hot water,
giving 10 grains of Dover's powder (see No.
5176) a hot drink, and plenty of blankets,
5588. Brown Mixture. Take powder-
ed extract of liquorice and powdered gum-
arabic, of each 2 drachms ; hot water, 4 fluid
ounces ; mix, and add spirit of nitrous ether,
1 fluid drachm; antimonial wine, 2 fluid
drachms ; and tincture of opium, 40 minims.
A table-spoonful for a dose. This is an ex-
cellent remedy in the early stages of catarrh ;
it is the well-known compound liquorice mix-
ture of the Pharmacopoeia.
5589. Flaxseed Tea. Macerate 1
ounce flaxseed and £ ounce braised liquorice
root in 1 pint boiling water for 2 hours, in a
lightly closed vessel ; filter, and add 1 fluid
ounce lemon juice. This is a good drink in
cases of catarrh.
5590. To Believe a Cough. The
troublesome cough caused by an accumula-
tion of phlegm in the throat, especially in the
morning, experienced mostly by persons
affected with chronic catarrh, can be relieved
instantly by taking a tea-spoonful of the fol-
lowing mixture, which has also the advantage
of being harmless to the stomach, rather im-
proving the appetite. Put into an 8-ounce
phial, i ounce muriate of ammonia and |
ounce pulverized gum-liquorice ; fill the phial
nearly full with hot water, and shake thor-
oughly, to prevent the liquorice from becom-
ing solid; shake also before using.
5591. Hay Fever. This very peculiar
disease appears generally as a severe attack of
catarrh, with asthmatic symptoms super-
added. The lining membrane of the eyes,
nose, throat, and lungs is all more or less
affected. The patient suffers from head-
ache, sometimes severe, sneezing, irritation of
the nose and throat, with a dry harassing
cough. The asthmatic attacks come on gen-
erally towards evening, and last from 1 to 3
hours, causing great distress. Hay fever is
not a very common complaint, and only at-
tacks those persons who, from some peculiar-
ity of constitution, are susceptible to the
causes producing it. It is supposed to be
caused by the inhalation of the pungent
aroma of spring grass and hay, but the in-
halation of the powder of ipecacuanha will
also produce it in certain individuals. In
places where the rose is largely cultivated,
similar attacks sometimes occur; it is then
called rose fever or rose catarrh.
5592. Treatment of Hay Fever.
The best treatment for hay fever is change of
air, to the sea-side if possible. During the
attacks, antispasmodics, such as sal-volatile,
ether, or an emetic, if the patient is able
to bear it, inhalations of hot steam medicated
with creosote, carbolic acid, or turpentine,
will be found useful. When the attack
passes off the general health should be im-
proved by tonics, diet, <tc.
5593. Asthma. This disease is well
known. It manifests itself in temporary fits
i of difficult breathing, is accompanied with
' wheezing, cough, a sense of suffocation, and
constriction of the chest. The causes are,
hereditary predisposition; cold and moist
atmosphere ; sudden changes of temperature ;
intense study ; suppression of long accus-
tomed evacuations ; certain fevers ; irritation
of the air cells of the lungs; irritation of the
stomach, &c. When this disease is attended
with expectoration, it is called humoral
asthma; and when there is no discharge it
is named dry asthma. It is remarkable that
what will excite the disease in one patient
will often prove a means of relieving it in
another.
5594. To Alleviate Asthma. For
moderating the asthmatic paroxysm, no
agent is more valuable in many cases than
tobacco. A pipe often acts as a charm, and
enables the patient to sleep and forget his
troubles. In others, the wearing of a gauze
veil over the face quite prevents the effects of
the evil. It is most important to see that the
bowels bo freely opened at the commence-
ment of an attack.
5595. Expectorants. Medicines that
promote the secretion of the tracheal and
bronchial mucus. According to Dr. Good,
true expectorants are those medicines which
rather promote the separation of the viscid
phlegm with which the bronchia? are loaded,
than simply soften and dilute it ; though
these are also treated as expectorants by
many writers. Numerous articles of the ma-
teria medica have been denominated expecto-
rants, of which the following are the princi-
pal : Tartarized antimony, ipecacuanha,
squills, garlic, assafetida, ammoniacnm, the
oily resins, the balsams of tolu and Peru,
benzoin, styrax, benzole acid, the fumes of
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
4:87
vinegar, tar, and of many of the volatile oils,
and the smoke of tobacco and stramonium.
Chlorine and ammoniacal gases have also been
called expectorants. Medicines of this class
are commonly employed in pulmonary com-
plaints and affections of the air-tubes, at-
tended by a vitiated state of the mucus, or
an imperfect performance of the natural func-
tions of the secretory vessels. (Cooley.) Of
all classes of the materia medica, none are
more uncertain in their action than expecto-
rants. ( Pereira.) The act of ejecting matter
from the chest is called expectoration.
5596. Bronchitis. An inflammation of
the mucous lining of the bronchia, or smaller
ramifications of the windpipe. In its milder
form it is commonly called a cold on the
chest. The usual symptoms are hoarseness,
dry cough, a slight degree of fever, followed
by expectoration of mucus, at first thin, and
afterwards thick and copious. In the severer
forms there is more fever, cough, and oppres-
sion at the chest, &c. The generality of cases
of bronchitis yield to small and repeated
doses of ipecacuanha and antimonial diapho-
retics, at the same time adopting a light diet,
and keeping the bowels open with mild pur-
gatives.
5597. How to Cure a Cold. Dr. G.
Johnson, Professor of Medicine in King's
College, London, in a recent lecture gives the
following cure for a cold : On the whole, the
plan which combines the greatest degree of
efficiency with universal applicability, con-
sists in the use of a simple hot-air bath, which
the patient can have in his own bed-room.
All that is required is a tin spirit lamp, with
a sufficiently largo wick, and holding suffi-
cient spirit to burn for half an hour. The
patient sits undressed in a chair with a lamp
between his feet, rather than under the chair,
care being taken to avoid setting fire to the
blankets, of which an attendant takes two
or three, and folds them around the patient
from his neck to the floor, so as to inclose
him and the lamp, the hot air from which
passes freely around the body. In from a
quarter to half an hour there is usually a free
perspiration, which may be kept up for a
time by getting into bed between hot blan-
kets. Headache, pain in the limbs, and other
premonitory indications of a severe cold, may
be entirely removed in the course of half an
hour by the action of the hot-air bath.
Another simple and efficient mode of excit-
ing the action of the skin consists in wrapping
the undressed patient in a sheet wrung out of
warm water, then over this folding two or
three blankets. The patient may remain
thus packed for an hour or two, until free
perspiration has been excited.
5598. Cough Pill. Extract of hyoscy-
arnus. balm of gilead buds, with pulverized ipe-
cacuanha or lobelia, and balsam of fir, of each.
•± ounce ; oil of anise a few drops, to form into
common sized pills. Dose, 1 or 2 pills, 3 or
4 times daily. Dr. Beach says he endeavored
for more than 25 years to obtain a medicine
to fulfill the indications which arc effected in
this cough pill, particularly for ordinary colds
and coughs ; and this admirably answers the
intention, excelling all others. It allays the
irritation of the mucus membrane, the bron-
chial tubes, and the lungs, and will be found
exceedingly valuable in deep-seated coughs
and all diseases of the chest.
5 599. To Cure a Troublesome Cough.
2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of linseed, n small
bunch of horehound ; boil to a jelly, and
strain. Add k pound sugar candy, J pound
honey, -J- pound loaf sugar. First boil tho
horehound in 1 quart water, then add the
strained linseed and the other articles. Sim-
mer for 2 hours. "When cold, add of chloro-
dyne, 3 table-spoonfuls. Bottle it and cork
tight. A sinalf quantity of spirits of wino or
brandy to keep it. "When the cough is trou-
blesome, take a table-spoonful. This is an
excellent remedy.
5600. Pulmonary Syrup. Blood-root,
boneset, slippery elm bark, coltsfoot, elecam-
pane, of each 2 ounces ; white root, spikenard
root, of each 4 ounces ; comfrey root, poplar
bark, of each 1 ounce ; lobelia, horehound,
snake-root, of each -J ounce. Pour upon
them 2 quarts of boiling water ; stir well,
add 1 pound molasses, and, when cool, 1 quart
Holland gin. It is one of the best remedies
for asthma, coughs, hoarseness, &c. A table-
spoonful every hour, or a wine-glassful 3
times a day.
5601. Pulmonary Balsam. Hore-
hound plant, comfrey root, blood root, ele-
campane root, wild cherry bark, spikenard
root, penny-royal plant, of each 4 ounces.
Pour 3 quarts boiling water upon them ; in-
fuse for 3 hours ; then heat the water again,
and pour it upon the plants to infuse 5 or 6
hours. Sweeten with sugar candy. It is
very serviceable in diseases of the lungs,
chronic coughs ; it removes constriction of
the chest by promoting expectoration. Take
half a small tea-cupful 3 or 4 times a day, or
often er if necessary.
5302. Blood-Boot Syrup. Bruised
blood-root, 2£ ounces ; lobelia, J ounce ; white
sugar, 1£ ounces; water, li pints; gently
simmer half an hour, till it thickens; when
cool, add a tea-spoonful of paregoric elixir.
Take a table-spoonful occasionally ; for a child,
a tea-spoonful or less. This syrup is very
valuable in chest complaints, bronchial affec-
tions, coughs, and difficult breathing.
5603. Cough Syrup. Tincture of lo-
belia, 1 ounce ; Iceland moss, 2 ounces ; white
poppy capsules, bruised, 2 ounces ; pearl bar-
ley, 2 table-spoonfuls; water, 2 quarts; mo-
lasses, 2 ounces. Boil down to 3 pints, and
strain. Dissolve in it from 4 to 8 ounces of
sugar candy. It effectually allays a tickling
cough. A table-spoonful when the cough is
troublesome. It does not constipate, like
laudanum and paregoric.
5604. Cough. Remedy. Take lobelia
herb, horehound, boneset, of each 1 ounce;
comfrey root, spikenard, St. Johns' wort,
poppy capsules, of each \ ounce. Infuse in 3
pints boiling water for 3 hours. Strain and
add J pound loaf sugar boiled to a syrup.
Add a wine-glassful of best rum. A table-
spoonful is a dose. This is a valuable receipt
for cough, hoarseness, <tc.
5605. To Cure a Cold with a Cough.
Make a decoction of the leaves of the pine
tree, and sweeten with loaf sugar. Drink it
freely, warm, before going to bed, and cold,
through the day. It is a certain cure in a
short time.
4:88
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5606. Inhalation of Cubebs and Car-
bolic Acid. Mix together £ fluid ounce tinc-
ture of cubebs and 20 drops liquid carbolic
acid. Add the mixture to J pint hot water in
an inhaler, and use every 3 or 4 hours, taking
full respirations. A very efficient remedy in
dry cough.
5607. Cough. Mixture. Take muriate
of morphia, % grain ; glycerine, 2 fluid ounces.
Mix. Dose, a tea-spoonful when the cough is
troublesome.
5608. Treatment for Ulcerated Sore
Throat. Chlorate of potassa, in cases of
putrid ulcerated sore throat, has been used
with the most decisive success. Its internal
application more effectually allays thirst and
abates fever than any other medicine; and,
when applied as a gargle to inflamed or ulcer-
ated sore throats, it has been found to disperse
the inflammation and cleanse the ulcers more
effectually than the infusion of rose-leaves
with sulphuric acid, the gargle generally re-
sorted to in those cases. The chlorate of po-
tassa may be given in the dose of from 20 to
30 grains in a half glass of water, 3 or 4 times
a day. For the purpose of gargling the
throat, 4 drachms of the chlorate may be
added to k pint of water. (See No. 5637.)
5609. Bell's Gargle for Syphilitic
Sore Throat. Mix together 2 grams corro-
sive sublimate; 1 ounce rectified spirits of
wine ; 3 ounces tincture of Peruvian bark, and
1 ounce each honey of roses and tincture of
myrrh.
5610. Atlee's Cough Mixture. 2
grains acetate of morphia; 1 drachm each
tincture of belladonna and tincture of nux-
vornica ; 3 drachms each antimonial wine and
syrup of ipecacuanha root; 1 ounce fluid ex-
tract of wild cherry bark, and 2 ounces syrup
of balsam of tolu. A tea-spoonful 4 times a
day relieves chronic or hacking cough.
5611. Hope's Cough Mixture. 2 oun-
ces ammonia mixture; 5 ounces camphor
mixture ; 1 drachin tincture of digitalis (fox-
glove); ^ ounce each sweet spirits of nitre
and syrup of poppies ; 2 drachms solution of
sulphate of morphia. A table-spoonful of
this mixture is to be taken 4 times a day.
5612. Treatment of Consumption.
It seems at first sight as superfluous to state
that in a disease of debility like consumption,
patients should breathe pure air, as that they
should have good nourishing food, but it is
not so. Theoretically, the value of pure air
is accepted; but practically it is universally
neglected. Healthful respiration has yet to
be applied not only to every-day life, but in
the treatment of disease. In ill health, and
particularly diseases of the respiratory organs,
the dictates of science and common sense are
grossly outraged. If those persons who have
consumption, or who have an inclination to it,
would spend an hour every day in breathing
pure air to the fullest extent to which their
lungs are capable of taking it in, they would
do more to prevent and cure this disease
than it is possible to do by medication.
5613. Inhalation of Tar for Consump-
tion. Mix together 16 ounces liquid tar and
1 fluid ounce liquor of potassa ; boil them for
a few minutes in the open air; then let it sim-
mer gently in an iron vessel over a spirit or
other lamp in the chamber of the patient.
This may, at first, excite a disposition to cough,
but in a short time allays it; and removes any
tendency to it.
5614. Syrup of Blood-root. 1 ounce
blood-root, J ounce aniseseed, and \ ounco
liquorice boiled in 2 pints water down to a
pint, and then mixed with 4 ounces honey.
This is highly recommended in consumptive
cases attended with dyspeptic symptoms.
5615. Blood-root for Consumption.
25 to 40 drops saturated tincture of 'blood-
root, taken 2 or 3 times a day, afford great
relief.
5616. Cigars for Pulmonary Con-
sumption. Dissolve 1 part arseniate of soda
in 30 parts water. Dip white unsized paper
into the solution and form into small rolls, 3
or 4 inches long. In pulmonary consump-
tion inhale 4 or 5 whiffs as many times a day.
5617. Goddard's Cure for Loss of
Voice. Wet bibulous paper with a solution
of 1 part arseuite of potash in 25 parts water ;
dry and roll strips of 3 inches by 1 inch into
cigarettes. The smoke to be inhaled, 8 or 10
inspirations, 3 times a day. In connection
with this use -fa grain ammoniated mercury
mixed with 10 drachms powdered sugar, ap-
Ely a little to the throat with the end of the
nger. This is an excellent remedy.
5618. To Cure Hoarseness. Saturated
solution of iodine, 20 drops; alcohol, 1 ounce;
5 drops of the above on a lump of loaf sugar
every two hours will be found invaluable.
5619. Cigars for Hoarseness, Asthma,
&c. Soak thick unsized paper in a solution
of saltpetre, and dry. Then brush over, with
tincture of cascarilla ; and, when nearly dry,
with compound tincture of benzoin. In about
half an hour, cut it into pieces 1£ by 4 inches,
and roll into cigarettes. Excellent for hoarse-
ness, loss of voice, and asthma.
5620. Remedy for a Sudden Hoarse-
ness. Mix 1 tea-spoonful of sweet spirits of
nitre in a wine-glassful of water. This may
be taken 2 or 3 times a day.
5621. To Prevent Hoarseness. A
celebrated singer state.} that the greatest
benefit is derivable from taking, during 5 or 6
days, twice a day, 5 or 6 drops of nitric acid
in a glass of sugared water. If from use the
acid loses its efficacy, the dose may be in-
creased to 10 or 12 drops.
5622. Snuffles. A troublesome com-
plaint, to infants especially. The mucous
membrane of the nose, through the taking of
cold, being much swollen, the child is no
longer able to breathe through its nose, as it
was accustomed to do, but is compelled to
breathe through the mouth. The difficult
breathings are attended by a peculiar snuffling
noise, which, in sleep, becomes a regular loud
snore. It often interferes with its sucking at
the breast ; as soon as it seizes the nipple a
threatening suffocation compels it to desist.
While this complaint lasts the child may be
partially fed with the spoon; give it a very mild
purgative ; bathe its legs frequently in warm
water. Eub the nose with tallow, and apply
a slippery elm poultice mixed with cream.
5623. Influenza Mixture. Mix i ounce
paregoric elixir, 1 ounce syrup of squills, and
2 drachms antimonial wine, with 6 ounces
water. A tea-spoonful every 15 minutes until
relieved.
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
<189
5624. Treatment of Asthma. Be-
lief is often obtaiued by smoking a pipe of
tobacco. To a person unaccustomed to smok-
ing, a pipe of latakia, or other mild descrip-
tion of tobacco ; this soon produces exhaus-
tion, while, directly the feeling of nausea
comes on, the attack ceases. This remedy is
often very useful in preventing an attack
when one is impending. Stronger tobacco
should be used by inveterate smokers. The
fumes of burning filtering or blotting-paper,
which has been soaked in a saturated solution
of nitre, and dried, afford much relief in some
cases (see No. 5619); and, lastly, there are
instances where palliation is soonest obtained
from a stimulant, as a glass of whiskey or
brandy toddy, or a cup of very strong coffee.
A mustard poultice over the front of the
chest is often effective. Sometimes an attack
may bo arrested by taking off the patient's
coat and vest, and exposing his back to the
heat of a good fire. (See No. 5764.)
5625. Croup. This is a dangerous
disease. It is common to infancy, and rarely
occurs to adults. It is an inflammation of
the larynx, trachea, and contiguous tissues.
It derives its name from the peculiar sound of
the voice and breathing, being of a whistling
or crowing character, owing to a contraction
of the glottis. It generally commences with
a common cold and catarrh, hoarseness,
cough, and increased difficulty of breathing,
and the crowing already spoken of. It de-
mands prompt treatment.
5626. Treatment of Croup. The great
object is to diminish the inflammation and
irritation, and to relax the spasmodic state
of the muscles in the parts diseased. The
vessels in those parts are overcharged with
blood, by an imperfect action of the exhalants.
Place the feet in warm water, and give an
emetic. (See No. 5169.) After bathing, rub
the legs and feet well with flannel. Then
give a vapor bath, if the patient can bear it.
Repeat the process, if needful. The perspira-
tion will be greater by applying to the feet
and each side hot bricks, and wrapped in
flannel saturated with vinegar and a little
water. At the same time give an aperient,
to produce a free action on the bowels. Ap-
ply this tincture to the throat, viz.: -J- tea-
spoonful of cayenne pepper, nearly a cupful
of vinegar; simmer 10 minutes, and strain.
This tincture may be diluted with warm
water, according to the strength of the pa-
tient. Rub it well on the throat for 5 or 10
minutes ; and next saturate a flannel with it,
and apply it to the throat. This application
tends to relieve the internally congested
blood-vessels. Repeat the application as
necessary. Mustard plasters may be applied
to the feet, the upper part of the chest, and
between the shoulders alternately. Even a
large sponge dipped in as hot water as the
hand can bear, squeezed half dry, and re-
newed before it is cool, is of great advantage.
It has been recommended to steep hops in
hot vinegar, and the patient to inhale the
vapor. Keep the atmosphere of the room
at a regular temperature. Aid the perspi-
ration by warm drinks, as balm tea, &c.
5627. Remedy for Croup. Turpentine
is a sovereign remedy for croup. Saturate
a piece of flannel with it, and place the flan-
nel on the throat and chest, and in very
severe cases 3 to 5 drops on a lump of sugar
may be taken inwardly. Every family should
have a bottle of turpentine on hand.
5628. To Prevent a Return of Croup.
To prevent a return of this disorder, keep the
child warm, avoid wet feet, cold, damp,
easterly winds, &c. Children whose constitu-
tions dispose them to croup ought to have
their diet properly regulated, and be kept
from all crude, raw, and trashy fruits.
5629. Mumps. This is a specific con-
tagious inflammatory affection of the salivary
glands, especially the largest, situated below
the car. It begins with slight feverish symp-
toms, with pain and swelling, extending from
beneath the ear along the neck to the chin.
The attack generally reaches its height in 4
days and then declines. The treatment is
very simple — a mild diet, gentle laxatives, oc-
casional hot fomentations, and wearing a
piece of flannel around the throat.
5630. Quinsy. Inflammation of the
tonsils, or common inflammatory sore throat,
commences with a slight feverish attack, with
considerable pain and swelling of the tonsils,
causing some difficulty in swallowing ; as the
attack advances these symptoms become more
intense,- there is headache, thirst, a painful
sense of tension, and acute darting pains in
the ears. The attack is generally brought on
by exposure to cold, and lasts from 5 to 7
days, when it subsides naturally, or an ab-
scess may form in the tonsil and burst, or the
tonsil may remain enlarged, the inflammation
subsiding.
5631. Treatment of Quinsy. The
patient should remain in a warm room, the
diet chiefly milk and good broths, some cool-
ing laxative and diaphoretic medicine may be
given ; but the greatest relief will be found in
the frequent inhalation of the steam of hot
water through an inhaler, or in the old-fash-
ioned way, through the spout of a teapot.
Relief will also be experienced from the fol-
lowing treatment : Roast 3 or 4 large onions.
Peel them quickly, and beat them flat with a
rolling-pin. Immediately place them in a
thin muslin bag that will reach from ear to
ear, and about 3 inches deep. Apply it
speedily as warm as possible to the throat.
Keep it on day and night, changing it when
the strength of the onion appears to be ex-
hausted, and substituting fresh ones. Flannel
must be worn around the neck after the poul-
tice is removed.
5632. Treatment of "Whooping-
cough.. The attack generally begins as a
common cold, with slight feverish symptoms.
In 8 or 10 days the fever partially subsides,1
and the child gets attacks of convulsive
coughing, accompanied by the peculiar whoop
which gives the disease its name. The num-
ber of attacks varies from 1 or 2 to 10, or even
15 in the 24 hours, according to the severity/
of the disease. The child should be kept in a
warm room. He ought to be clothed in flan-
nel ; his diet should be light and nourishing,
such as fish, milk, light puddings, and new-laid,
eggs. The following prescription is strongly
recommended by Dr. Yaleutine Mott: Hy-
drocyanic acid, 6 drops; extract of belladonna,
2 grains; paregoric elixir, 3 drachms; syrup
of balsam of tolu, 1 ounce; and water, 3 oun-
-490
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
ces. Mix. 1 tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times daily.
When the severity of the disease has passed
off, change of air will be found most useful;
and if the child has become debilitated, tonics,
with nutritious diet, should be given. This
disease being very infectious, great care
should be taken to prevent communication of
any kind with houses where there are children
who have not already had whooping-cough.
5633. Syrup for Whooping-Cough.
Onions and garlics, sliced, of each 1 gill; stew
them in 1 gill sweet oil, in a covered dish, to
obtain the juices ; then strain and add honey,
1 gill; paregoric and spirits of camphor, of
each k ounce; bottle and cork tight for use.
Dose, for a child of 2 or 3 years, 1 tea-spoonful
3 or 4 times daily, or whenever the cough is
troublesome, increasing or lessening, accord-
ing to age.
5634. Atiee's Cure for Whooping-
Cough. Take 1 drachm each powdered
cochineal and strong aqua-ammonia; 1 ounce
rectified spirits of wine. Mix. Dose for a
child one year old, 10 drops in sweetened
water 3 times a day.
5635. Cure for Whooping Cough.
Pure carbonate of potassa, 1 scruple ; coch-
ineal, 1 grain ; dissolve in G ounces of water
sweetened with sugar. Dose for a child four
years old, 1 tea-spoonful 3 times a day, to be
taken before meals. This is an excellent
remedy.
5636. Treatment of Diphtheria.
Make two small bags to reach from ear to
ear, and fill them with wood-ashes and salt ;
dip them in hot water, and wring them out
so that they will not drip, and apply them to
the throat ; cover up the whole with a flannel
cloth, and change them as often as they be-
come cool, until the throat becomes irritated,
near blistering. For children it is necessary
to put flannel cloths between tho ashes and
the throat, to prevent blistering. When the
ashes have been on a sufficient time, take a
wet flannel cloth and rub it With castile soap
until it is covered with a thick lather ; dip it
in hot Avater, and apply it to the throat, and
change as they cool ; at the same time use a
gargle made of 1 tea-spoonful each of cayenne
pepper, salt, and molasses, in a tea-cupful of
hot water, and when cool, add J as much
cider vinegar, and gargle every 15 minutes,
until the patient requires sleep. A gargle
made of castile soap is good to bo used part
of the time.
5637. Remedy for Diphtheria. Per-
manganate of potassa has been administered
(with great success in cases of diphtheria.
The proportions used for external use are 1
drachm of tho permanganate to a pint of wa-
ter ; the dose for internal use, 1 tea-spoonful
of a solution of 1 drachm in 1£ pints water.
(U. S. Dis.)
5638. Remedy for Diphtheria. A
gentleman who has administered the follow-
ing remedy for diphtheria, says that it has
always proved effectual : Take a tobacco
Eipe, place a live coal in the bowl, drop a
ttle tar iipon the coal, and let the patient
draw smoke into the mouth, and discharge it
through the nostrils. The remedy is safe and
simple.
5639. Roche's Remedy for Diphthe-
ria. M. Roche recommends the following
mode of treatment. The false membranes
are first freely cauterized with lunar caustic,
and injections then made every hour against
the fauces with a solution of common salt,
the strength of the solution being such as not
to create nausea. Chlorate of potassa may be
also given internally ; and tincture of iodine
as a local application ; but M. Roche considers
that the irrigations with the solution of com-
mon salt are the chief agents in the case.
5640. Stiff Neck. Occasionally an at-
tack is severe, and confinement to the house
or bed, with wrapping up of the neck with
cotton- wadding or flannel, together with at-
tention to the state of the digestive powers,
is necessary. The diet in these cases must be
regulated, and an aperient, such as the leni-
tive electuary (see No. 5154), or castor oil,
taken if required by the state of the bowels.
If the stiffness be obstinate in its duration, it
had better be rubbed with camphorated oil, or
some other appropriate liniment.
5641. Anthelmintics. Medicines that
destroy worms. Among the principal au-
thelmintics are santonin (worm-seed), calo-
mel, tin powder, castor oil, oil of turpentine,
cowhage, pinkroot, male-fern, and gamboge.
A good plan for removing worms from chil-
dren, is to give 3 to 5 grains of calomel in
sugar, over-night, and a dose of castor oil the
next morning. The motions should be ob-
served, and if worms be found, the same
treatment may be followed once a week, un-
til they are wholly removed.
5642. Worms. The worms found in
the human body are mostly the ascaridfes, the
thread worm, infesting the lower intestine,
causing much itching and irritation about the
anus. The teres, or long round worms, are
generally seated in the small intestines, and
stomach. The symptoms denoting the ex-
istence of worms are common to the different
species, viz.: indigestion, with a variable
appetite ; foul tongue ; offensive breath ; hard,
full, and tense belly, with occasional gripings
and pains about the navel ; heat and itching
sensation in the rectum and about the anus ;
the eyes heavy and dull ; itching of the nose ;
short dry cough ; grinding of the teeth ; and
starting during sleep, attended often with a
slow fever.
5643. Dr. Freeman's Vermifuge
Oil. Oil of worm-seed, J ounce ; oil of tur-
pentine, 2 drachms; castor oil, 1£ ounces;
pink root, i ounce ; hydrastin, 10 grains ; syrup
of peppermint, \ ounce. Dose, for a child 10
years old, a tea-spoonful 3 times a day, 1
hour before each meal; if it purges too freely,
give it less often. This is an excellent ver-
mifuge, and never fails to expel worms when
administered for that purpose. "Where no
worms are present, it answers the purpose of
a tonic, correcting the condition of the mucous
membrane of the stomach and bowels, and
operating as a mild cathartic.
5644. Spackman's Worm Syrup.
Take k ounce pink root ; 2 drachms rhubarb
root; 1 drachm worm-seed; £ drachm sa-
vine leaves ; 2 drachms Colombo root, and
1 drachm cardamom seeds. Infuse these in-
gredients in i pint boiling water in a covered
vessel ; when cool, add | pint molasses and
a table-spoonful brandy. Dose for a child 1
! year old, 2 tea-spoonfuls 3 times a day.
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
4,91
5645. Remedy for Worms. Take 6
grains santonin ; 2 grains powdered gamboge ;
3 grains calomel; and 12 grains powdered
white sugar. Make into 6 powders. Give 1
powder 3 times a day for a child one year old,
and a dose of castor oil the day after taking
the powders.
5646. Oil of Worm-seed Mixture.
Take 1A fluid drachms oil of worm-seed, 3
ounces castor oil, and 10 drops oil of anise ;
mix them together, and add 1 fluid ounce
aromatic syrup of rhubarb. Shake well
before using. Dose for a child of 2 years,
1 tea-spoonful night and morning.
564*7. A Simple and Safe Vermifuge.
Powdered rust of iron is a good vermifuge.
It expels the worms and strengthens the con-
stitution. To a child 6 years old from 10 to
40 grains may be given. An adult may take
i ounce or more. It may be given in mo-
lasses or in beer. Dr. Rush says that he
knows of no safer and more certain remedy
than this simple preparation of iron. It
should always be followed by an aperient.
5648. Worm Pills. Ethereal extract
of male-fern, 30 drops ; extract of dandelion,
1 drachm ; powdered gum enough to mako 30
pills. Dose, from 6 to 20 ; followed half an hour
later by a strong dose of castor oil.
5649. Tape-Worm. The common
male-fern root is a certain remedy for the
tape-worm. 2 or 3 drachma of the powdered
root to be taken in the morning, no supper
having been taken the night before. It gen-
erally sickens a little. A brisk purgative is
to be given a few hours after, which some-
times brings off the worm entire ; if not, the
same course must be followed at due inter-
vals. For the success of this remedy, the
root should be recently gathered; as, after
being kept long in the stores, its activity is
diminished or destroyed.
5650. Bowler's Treatment of Tape-
Worm. Dr. Dowler expelled a tape-worm
135 feet long by prescribing the continued
use of eim-bark. He ordered the bark to be
chewed and swallowed in moderate quan-
tities.
5651. Beach's Treatment of Tape-
Worm. Dr. Beach effectually cured a
patient who had been tormented with a tape-
worm for 25 years. His treatment was as
follows : Cowhage stripped from the pod, a
small tea-spoonful 3 times a day ; to be taken,
fasting, in a little arrow-root jelly ; then oc-
casionally a purgative of mandrake. In con-
nection with this, eat freely of garlic and
fine common salt. This treatment is to be
continued until the tape-worm is killed or so
sickened that it will lose its hold on the bow-
els, when it will be expelled entire. "When
once the tape- worm begins to pass the bow-
els, care must be taken not to break it off,
for it will then grow again ; it has this pe-
culiar property.
5652. Diarrhea. The following excel-
lent remarks on this disease are extracted
from Dr. Hall's Journal of Health : Cholera
is nothing more than exaggerated diarrhea.
It may be well for travelers to know that the
first, the most important, and the most indis-
pensable item in the arrest and cure of loose-
ness of the bowels, is absolute quietude on a
bed ; nature herself always prompts this by
disinclining us to locomotion. The next thing
is, to eat nothing but common rice, parched
like coffee, and then boiled, and taken with a
little salt and butter. Drink little or no liquid
of any kind. Bits of ice may be eaten and
swallowed at will. Every step taken in diar-
rhea, every spoonful of liquid, only aggra-
vates the disease. If locomotion is compul-
sory, the misfortune of the necessity may be
lessened by having a stout piece of woolen
flannel bound tightly round the abdomen, so
as to be doubled in front, and kept well in its
place. In the practice of many years, we
have never failed to notice a gratifying result
to follow these observances.
5653. Velpeau's Remedy for Diar-
rhea and Cholera Morbus. Take 1 ounce
each tincture of opium, paregoric elixir, and
tincture of rhubarb ; 10 drachms essence of
peppermint ; and 6 drachms tincture of cap-
sicum. This is the original receipt for this
celebrated remedy. Dose for an adult, a tea-
spoonful in i a wine-glass sweetened wa-
ter; and, if required, half a dose after each
loose evacuation.
5654. Diarrhea Tincture. Compound
tincture of myrrh, (3 ounces ; tincture of rhu-
barb, and spirits of lavender, of each 5 oun-
ces; tincture of opium, 3 ounces; oils of
anise and cinnamon, with gum camphor and
tartaric acid, of each J- ounce. Mix. Dose,
1 tea-spoonful in a little warm water sweeten-
ed with loaf sugar ; repeat after each passage.
This is a magic remedy.
5655. Chlorodyne Mixture. Shake
together 2£ fluid drachms each chlorodyne and
rectified spirit ; add 1 fluid ounce syrup, and
shake again well ; then add a little at a time,
with brisk agitation, 4 fluid ounces distilled
water and 3 fluid drachms mucilage. Dose,
1 to 2 table-spoonfuls in diarrhea, cholera, &c.
Shake well before using.
5656. Goddard's Diarrhea Remedy.
Dr. Paul Goddard gives the following remedy:
Take •} ounce tincture of catechu, 2 drachms
each tincture of opium and tincture of cam-
phor, and 1 drachm aromatic spirits of ammo-
nia. 40 drops every hour will afford speedy
relief.
5657. Remedy for Diarrhea. Tinc-
ture of opium, spirits of camphor, essence of
peppermint, ethereal tincture of capiscum, of
each h ounce ; syrup of kino, 1 ounce ; neu-
tralizing cordial, 2 ounces (see JVb. 5GGG);
brandy, 2 ounces. Mix. Dose, one table-
spoonful, may be given every twenty minutes
if the case is urgent. In dysentery give 1
table-spoonful 3 times a day. This is an ex-
cellent remedy.
5658. Blackberry Cordial. To 1 quart
blackberry juice, add 1 pound white sugar, 1
table-spoonful each cloves, allspice, cinna-
mon, and nutmeg. Boil all together 15 min-
utes, add a wine-glass of whiskey, brandy, or
rum. Bottle while hot, cork tight and seal.
This is almost a specific in diarrhea. Dose is
1 wine-glassful for an adult, half that quanti-
ty for a child ; will often cure diarrhea. It
can be taken 3 or 4 times a day if the case is
severe.
5659. Remedy for Summer Com-
plaint. A tea made of the seeds of the sun-
flower, roasted like coffee berries, is an ad-
mirable remedy for all species of summer
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
4:92
complaint, i pint of the seed is sufficient.
It should be remembered, however, that se-
rious results often follow the too sudden stop-
page of diarrhea by astringents, and with this,
as all remedies of a similar nature, caution
should be used.
5660. Remedy for Bilious Diarrhea.
Infuse i ounce Angostura bark for 2 hours in 1
pint boiling water, and strain ; is a remedy for
bilious diarrhea, especially in southern lati-
tudes.
5661. Treatment of Diarrhea in In-
fants. Dr. Smith recommends the following
prescriptions, if the bowels are rather loose,
with dark, slimy, offensive stools. Tincture
of opium, 8 minims ; castor oil, 1 drachm ;
syrup of ginger and mucilage of acacia, each
1 ounce. A tea-spoonful 3 times daily. In
the screaming fits, accompanied by constipa-
tion, this combination of castor-oil with laud-
anum is very valuable. (Med. News. )
5662. Treatment of Cholera. The
following excellent directions are given for
the treatment of cholera by Dr. Pratt : For
the stage of diarrhea. This may come on
insidiously, painless, and hence not alarming,
but should be met promptly. The remedy is
the cholera mixture, so called, consisting- of
equal parts of laudanum, tincture of rhubarb,
and spirits of camphor. Begin with 30 drops,
taken clear and unmixed, with a little sugar
placed in the mouth afterward. Kepeat the
dose after every evacuation, increasing it if
the case becomes urgent to 60 drops (a tea-
spoonful), or 90 drops if necessary. If the
diarrhea is not controlled by this means, an
injection of from 30 to 90 drops laudanum, in
a table-spoonful of starch, will prove a valua-
ble help. This may be often repeated. If
the diarrhea ceases, do not entirely intermit
the medicine, but give in gradually diminish-
ed doses, every 1 or 2 hours, for a period of
12 or even 24 hours.
5663. Treatment for the Vomiting
Stage. Dr. Pratt's remedy is laudanum,
tincture of capsicum, tincture of ginger, and
tincture of cardamom seeds, equal parts ; to
be given from 40 to 60 drops undiluted, and
followed by sugar, after every fit of vomiting;
taking care to give it as soon as the fit ceases,
when it will be more likely to be retained.
An excellent assistant to this is a large mus-
tard poultice applied to the abdomen.
5664. Treatment for the Stage of
Malignancy. According to Dr. Pratt, the
only remedy is stimulants, especially brandy,
which must be given with great freedom,
from 2 to 4 tea-spoonfuls every half or even
quarter hour, till heat returns, and pulse and
sensibility of extremities are restored. It is
always to be given undiluted. Alcohol, or
other spirits, will answer the purpose, if
brandy is not to be had. It will be necessary
to combine with this, artificial heat, bottles
of hot water to the body and extremities,
friction of the limbs (which no one need fear
to apply), and mustard, perhaps, to the feet
and hands, stomach and limbs. Kerncmber
that boldness, to the verge of rashness, is bet-
ter than excess of caution, and that no dan-
ger is to be apprehended from any of these
remedies so long as the symptoms for which
they are given are uncontrolled. The use of
cold water must be strictly forbidden, except
merely to gargle the throat; a very small
quantity, swallowed, will bring on the diar-
rhea after it has been stopped for hours. A
little water of gum-arabic may be allowed, a
tea-spoonful at a time ; or, perhaps, lumps of
ice might be taken with safety. For the
typhoid fever, which often follows an attack,
chamomile or sage tea, and diaphoretic (see
No. 5134) treatment, will be all that is need-
ed, beside a moderate use of stimulants, for
convalescence.
5665. Cholera Preventive. A Bur-
gundy-pitch plaster worn over the region of
the stomach during the prevalence of the
disease. It should be warmed a little before
it is put on, the person standing erect when
it is applied, so that the plaster shall not in-
terfere with the motions of the body. It is
asserted that a British regiment supplied
with such plasters lost only five men dur-
ing a severe visitation of cholera, and these had
refused to wear then. The efficacy of this
preventive is also corroborated by other well-
authenticated evidence.
5666. Neutralizing Mixture. Pow-
dered rhubarb, 3 scruples; saleratus, or
crude bicarbonate of potash, 3 scruples ; pow-
dered peppermint plant, 3 scruples ; boiling
water, i pint; decoction of aniseed, | pint.
Mix. Strain, sweeten with sugar, and add
3 table-spoonfuls of brandy. Take, 1 or 2
table-spoonfuls as often as the symptoms re-
quire it. For children, a less dose. Very
valuable in cholera, bowel complaints of chil-
dren, laxity of the bowels, flux, &c.
5667. Spackman's Cholera Mixture.
Take 1 ounce gum camphor ; 2 ounces gum
kino ; £ ounce gum catechu ; 2 ounces
ground cinnamon ; 1 ounce ground cloves ;
2 drachms African capsicums. Moisten these
with brandy and digest for 48 hours. Dis-
place (see No. 41) 18 ounces ; then add 20
drachms tincture of opium and 1 ounce
chloroform. Dose for an adult, 60 drops after
every passage.
5668. Brown's Cholera Mixture.
Mix together 1 ounce essence of Jamaica gin-
ger; 2 ounces each camphorated tincture of
opium and aromatic spirits of ammonia ; and
1 ounce spirits of camphor. Dose, a tea-
spooonful every hour.
5669. Troth's Cholera Mixture. Di-
gest for 10 days 1 ounce each opium, cam-
phor, oil of cloves, and African capsicums,
in 1 pint Hoffman's anodyne (see No. 4749) ;
administer 20 to 40 drops every 2 hours.
5670. Austrian Cholera Specific.
Take 20 grains sulphuric acid specific gravity
1.500; 15 grains each sugar and gum; dis-
tilled water sufficient to make the whole
weigh exactly 1 ounce, 1 table-spoonful of
the above mixture is to be taken in water on
the first appearance of premonitory symptoms,
followed by the free use of ice-cold water. A
second dose k an hour after is generally suffi-
cient to arrest the disease, but occasionally 4
or 5 doses are required. A table-spoonful in
a pint of cold water may afterwards be drunk
as often as desired. W"hen collapse sets in,
double doses are to be given, and repeated
after every attack of vomiting, until the sick-
ness and cramp abate. After which, the doses
are to be repeated until 5 or 6 doses are re-
tained by the stomach. Quiet sleep or drow-
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
4,93
siness should not be interfered with. The
free use of cold water or acidulated water is
to be allowed until perspiration sets in Und
the warmth of the body returns. The use of
warm drinks, wine, spirits, <fcc., are to be
carefully avoided as so much poison. The
above was adopted by the Austrian Govern-
ment in 1849, after 18 years' successful trial.
5671. Homoeopathic Cholera Pre-
ventive. Dissolve 1 drachm camphor in 6
drachms rectified spirit, and preserve it in a
well-corked bottle. Dose, 2 drops on a lump
of sugar 2 or 3 times a day.
5672. Homoeopathic Cholera Remedy.
Repeat the dose of the mixture in foregoing
receipt every 10 or 15 minutes, followed by
draughts of ice-cold water until the symp-
toms abate.
5673. Use of Calomel in Cholera.
"When cholera is prevailing, a single large,
thin, painless, weakening action of the bowels
may be cholera beguu, and the business man
should start for home in. a vehicle instantly,
calling on his physician on his way, and take
him home with him ; or, if he cannot be found
immediately, get into bed as soon as possible,
dress up warm, eat ice if thirsty, bind a thick
warm flannel tightly around the abdomen,
and wait for his doctor's arrival. A physician
should be called always on the instant of an
attack, hut when it is impossible to procure
his services within an hour, 10 or 20 grains of
calomel should bo taken in pill or powder, as
a means of stopping the discharges, and of
thus arresting the disease, until the physician
arrives. Calomel is generally easy to be pro-
cured, will remain on the stomach, from its
heaviness, when even cold water is ejected as
soon as swallowed, and is the most certain of
all medicines known to stimulate the liver to
action, this want of action being the funda-
mental cause of the disease. (Hall.)
5674. Cholera Tincture. Tinctures of
rhubarb, cayenne, opium, and spirits of cam-
phor, with essence of peppermint, equal parts
of each, and each as strong as can be made.
Dose, from 5 to 30 drops, or even to 60, and
repeat until relief is obtained, every 5 to 30
minutes. Many lives have been saved by the
timely use of this valuable medicine.
5675. Treatment of Dysentery. A
slight attack will often yield to the employ-
ment of a dose of castor oil ; warm fomenta-
tions or mustard poultices being applied over
the belly ; the patient being confined to bed,
and only allowed to partake of food the most
simple in its nature, that is, farinaceous food,
cream, or milk (with one-third of lime-water,
if requisite), thin broths, <fec. Perfect rest in
the horizontal posture is almost essential.
A warm bath for 20 minutes, or a shorter
time if the patient feels faint, will often give
great relief. Stimulants should be forbidden
in mild cases; but where the patient is be-
coming weakened by the disease, port wine,
as the best stimulant in these cases, may be
given in beef-tea, or alone. And the rule of
uttle and often may be strictly observed.
Early treatment is most important in dysen-
tery, and therefore the medical man should be
sent for without loss of time, in case the
simple means recommended are ineffectual.
5676. Indian Cure for Dysentery.
In diseases of this kind, the Indians use the
root and leaves of the blackberry bush, a de-
coction of which in hot water, well boiled
down, is taken in doses of a gill before each
meal, and before retiring to bed. It is an al-
most infallible cure.
5677. Simple Remedy for Dysentery.
The following simple remedy has been known
to cure the most obstinate and malignant
forms of dysentery when all the ordinary
methods were ineffectual : Take hot water, 1
gill; vinegar, k pint; mix; then continue to
add common salt as long as it will be dissolved,
stirring and irritating it freely and frequently.
Give for an adult 1 table-spoonful every hour
until the bloody discharges cease, or until it
operates freely on the bowels. The patient
must remain in bed.
5678. Antacids. Medicines that neu-
tralize the acid of the stomach, and thus tend
to remove heartburn, dyspepsia, and diarrhea.
The principal antacids are the carbonates of
potassa, soda, ammonia, lime, and magnesia.
Ammonia is the most powerful, and when
the acidity is conjoined with nausea and faint-
ness, is the best; when great irritability of
the coats of the stomach exist, potash is pre-
ferable; when accompanied with diarrhea,
carbonate of lime (prepared chalk); and
when with costiveness, magnesia. The dose
of the carbonates of potassa and soda in pow-
der is half a tea-spoonful; of chalk, a tea-
spoonful; of magnesia, a dessert-spoonful; and
of carbonate of ammonia, 10 grains, or <i tea-
spoonful of the solution. All these are taken
in water.
5679. Dyspepsia. If a man wishes to
get rid of dyspepsia, he must give his stomach
and brain less to do. It will be of no service
to follow any particular regimen — to live on
chaff bread or any such stuff— to weigh his
food, etc., so long as the brain is in a constant
state of excitement. Let that have proper
rest, and the stomach will perform its func-
tions. But if he pass 10 or 12 hours a day in
his office or counting-room, and take no ex-
ercise, his stomach will inevitably become
paralyzed ; and if he puts nothing into it but
a cracker a day, it will not digest it. In
many cases it is the brain that is the primary
cause. Give that delicate organ some rest.
Leave your business behind you when you go
to your home. Do not sit down to your din-
ner with your brows knit, and your mind
absorbed in casting up interest accounts.
Never abridge the usual hours of sleep. Take
more or less of exercise in the open air every
day. Allow yourself some innocent recrea-
tion. Eat moderately, slowly, and of just
what you please. If any particular dish dis-
agrees with you, however, never touch it or
look at it. Do not imagine that you must
live on rye bread or oat meal porridge; a
reasonable quantity of nutritious food is es-
sential to the mind as well as the body.
Above all, banish all thoughts of the subject.
If you have any treatises on dyspepsia,
domestic medicines, etc., put them directly
out of your reach. If you are constantly
talking and thinking about dyspepsia, you
will surely have it. Endeavor to forget that
you have a stomach. Keep a clear conscience;
live temperately, regularly, cleanly ; be indus-
trious, too, but avoid excess in that, as in all
1 other things.
494.
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5680. Artificial Digestion. A London
physician, Dr. Marcet, has announced a pro-
cess by -which natural digestion is imitated by
artificial means, and solid food may thereby
be prepared for invalids. Dr. Marcet takes 58
grains muriatic acid having a specific gravity
of 1.1496; 15 grains of pepsin — the organic
principle procured from the stomach of a pig
or other animal. Diluted in a pint of water
and added to a nouiid of raw meat, the -whole
is allowed to simmer over a -water-bath at
about the temperature of the body, 98° Fahr.
When the meat is by this means sufficiently
broken up, it is strained, and tSe acid neutral-
ized by 81 grains of bicarbonate of soda. The
product is of a most agreeable character,
easily digested and vastly more nutritious
than beef tea. "Where pepsin cannot be ob-
tained, the doctor has found strips of calves'
stomach answer very well.
5681. Dick's Cure for Dyspepsia.
Mix together i ounce bicarbonate of soda; 2
drachms aromatic spirits of ammonia; 6
drachms compound tincture of gentian; 6
drachms tincture of henbane; 2 drachms tinc-
ture of ginger; 3 drops creosote; £ ounce
ginger syrup, and 3 ounces water. A table-
spoonful taken after each meal will cause a
speedy cure.
5682. Dick's Dyspepsia Pills. Make
the following ingredients into 40 pills : 2
scruples each compound extract of colocynth,
and compound rhubarb pill (see No. 4923) ; 1
scruple blue mass (sec No. 4919) ; 55 grains
soap ; 1 drachm extract henbane ; 3 drops oil
of cloves. Take 2 pills at bed-time.
5683. Spackman's Anti-Dyspeptic
Pills. Make into a mass, 6 drachms 24 grains
powdered aloes; 3 drachms 20 grains each
gamboge, scammony, and compound extract of
colocynth ; 96 grains soap ; 15 drops each oil
of caraway and. oil of anise; with 1 drachm
water. Divide the mass into 16 parts, and
make each part into 24 pills ; 384 pills alto-
gether. A dose consists of 3 pills.
5684. Absorbents are medicines admin-
istered to counteract acidity in the stomach or
intestinal canal. In most cases, emetics and
aperients are given previous to their being
taken; they are carbonate of ammonia, in
doses of from 5 grains to 1 scruple ; liquor of
ammonia, 10 to 20 drops; aromatic spirit of
ammonia, 20 to 30 drops ; lime water, 2 oun-
ces to h pint; magnesia, calcined, 20 to 40
grains ; carbonate of magnesia, % to 2 drachms ;
carbonate of potassa, 10 grains to i drachm ;
carbonate of soda, 10 grains to -J- drachm;
soda water, \ pint. (See No. 5678.)
5685. To Correct Acidity of the
Stomach. The neutralizing mixture (see No.
5666) is very effectual in curing this disorder.
Or, 10 grains of calumba, powdered, and 10
grams of magnesia, well mixed. Magnesia
and a little finely powdered chalk will be of
great service.
5686. Remedy for Acidity of Stom-
ach. This is a common symptom of weak or
disordered digestion, and should bo treated
with small doses 3 or 4 times daily of the car-
bonate or bicarbonate of potassa, soda, or
ammonia ; or of sal- volatile or ammonia wa-
ter, to which some tonic bitter may be added.
Diet should be light and nutritious, with as
much out-door exercise as possible. The
bowels should be kept regular by the occa-
sional use of some mild aperient.
5687. Carminatives. Medicines that
allay flatulency and spasmodic pains. Among
the principal carminatives are aniseed, cara-
way-seed, cardamoms, cassia, cinnamon, gin-
ger, peppermint and the peppers; including
ardent spirits and most aromatic essences and
tinctures.
5688. Flatulency in Children. It
often arises from a mother's impure milk;
when it is so she must take the neutralizing
mixture (see No. 5666) ; and if not effectual,
administer it to the infant. Also foment the
stomach with warm brandy and water, to
which add a little salt. Give also the carmin-
ative drops. (See No. 5689.)
5689. Carminative Drops, for expelling
wind. Angelica, 2 ounces; lady's slipper, 1
ounce ; sweet flag, J ounce ; anise, 1 ounce);
fennel seed, i ounce; catnip flowers, 1 ounce;
mother- wort, 1 ounce; pleurisy root, 2 oun-
ces. Infuse in a pint of spirits of wine for 3
or 4 days, often shaking, keeping it in a warm
place ; then add a pint of water and a table-
spoonful of tincture of cayenne. Excellent
in flatulency, colic, nervous affections, pro-
moting perspiration and refreshing sleep.
5690. Heartburn. Anxiety and pain
about the region of the stomach, generally
attended by a sense of gnawing and heat;
hence called heartburn. Faintness, nausea,
and eructation of a thin, acidulous, watery
liquid, especially iu the morning, are common
symptoms of this complaint. The usual
causes of heartburn are excess in eating or
drinking, the use of improper food, and seden-
tary habits. A good remedy is a tea-spoonful
of carbonate of magnesia, or carbonate, of
soda, in a glass of peppermint or cinnamon
water, to which a little powdered ginger may
be added with advantage. This dose may be
taken 2 or 3 times daily nntil the disease is
removed. Articles of food that easily under-
go fermentation should at the same time be
avoided, and a dry diet had recourse to as
much as possible. Soda-water, toast and wa-
ter, and weak spirits and water, are the most
suitable beverages in this complaint.
5691. To Cure Water-Brash. When
there is a tendency to confined bowels, some
aperient must bo administered occasionally un-
til proper dieting, <fec., renders it unnecessary.
Fluid magnesia, or the lenitive electuary (see
No. 5154), will probably be all that is neces-
sary. The diet must bo carefully attended to
in all cases ; and as the disorder often arises
from the use of innutritious or unwholesome
food, the adoption of a more varied and gener-
ous diet, including a sufficient proportion of
meat, is essential to the permanent success of
any remedy.
5692. 'Treatment of Colic. Let it be
remembered that colic may occur as the pre-
lude to an inflammatory attack ; and that if
neglected or unskillfully treated, such ten-
dency is very considerably increased. In the
treatment of colic, very great advantage re-
sults from the external application of warmth;
hot fomentations, bags of hot salt or bran, or
flannel wrung out of turpentine, or mustard
poultices, should be diligently employed.
While these means arc being used, a dose of
laxative medicine should be administered;
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
495
for, as fa tlie great majority of cases of colic
the pain depends on some obstruction in the
bowels — very likely on the presence in them
of some deleterious and indigestible food, &c.
— it is of essential importance that free pas-
sage should be obtained as speedily as possible.
A full dose (li ounces) castor oil, is a safe and
good medicine for the purpose ; to be repeated
in 2 or 3 hours if there has been no action of
the bowels. If the medical man has arrived
meanwhile, he will very likely order some
stronger medicine, as, if the oil has not acted,
steps must be taken to clear the bowels as
soon as possible. If the pain is very severe,
a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, or a little
cayenne pepper may bo added to the oil or
taken after it. "When free action of the bow-
els is obtained, the pain soon ceases. After
such attacks great caution is requisite in the
matter of diet for some time ; only the plain-
est and most digestible food being taken.
5693. Treatment of Lead or Painters'
Colic. In caees of colic arising from poison-
ing by lead, called lead colic, so often expe-
rienced by plumbers, painters, "workers in shot
towers, &c., the great object is to obtain free
action of the bowels, as in common colic ;
and medical assistance should be obtained at
once. Of course every care should be taken
to prevent any further entrance of lead into
the system. In order to obviate the occur-
rence of lead-poisoning in those who are of
necessity exposed in a greater or less degree
to its influence, frequent ablutions of the
hands and surface of the body should be
practiced; "while sulphuric acid lemonade
should be used as a beverage.
5694. Fainting Fits. If a person faints,
let him be placed on his back until he comes
to. Do nothing else. Ho has fainted be-
cause the heart has stopped beating. It will
come to of itself as soon as nature desires it,
and it will be easier to propel the blood in a
horizontal direction, when lying down, than
perpendicularly to the head, chest, and arms,
when sitting up. And yet the very first
effort of bystanders when a person is observ-
ed to have fainted, is to place him on a chair,
or lift up his head. (Hall). If the patient
be a female, place her on her back, with the
' head low, loosen all clothes about the neck
and chest, sprinkle cold water on the face,
and apply smelling salts to the nostrils.
~When the patient can swallow, give some
cold water, with 20 or 30 drops of sal- volatile,
or a little brandy.
5695. Fits. If a person falls in a fit, let
him remain on the ground, provided his face
be pale ; for should it be fainting or tempo-
rary suspension of the heart's action, you
may cause death by raising him upright, or
by bleeding ; but if the face "be red or dark
colored, raise him on his seat, throw cold wa-
ter on his head immediately, and send for a
surgeon, and get a vein opened, or fatal pres-
sure on the brain may ensue.
5696. Cure for Cramps. Mix 2
drachms chloroform, 1 drachm oil of cam-
phor, 6 drachms mucilage of gum-arabic, and
I i grains acetate of morphia. Dose, 40 drops
every 2 hours.
5697. Remedy for Dropsy and Liver
Affections. Mix 8 ounces infusion of dan-
delion (taraxacum) ; i ounce extract of dan-
delion; 2 drachms carbonate of soda; 6
drachms tartrate of potassa ; 8 drachms tinc-
ture of rhubarb; li ounces tincture of henbane.
Dose, a table-spoonful every 2 hours.
5698. Cure for Liver Complaint.
Take £ ounce each extract of taraxacum
(dandelion) and tartrato of potassa ; 45 grains
carbonate of soda ; i ounce sweet tincture of
rhubarb, and 6 ounces spring water. Dose,
a tea-spoonful 3 times a day.
5699. Remedy for Liver Complaint.
Mix k ounce each fluid extract of rhubarb
and of senna with 4 ounces water. Then
add k ounce extract of taraxacum ; 3 drachms
acetate of potassa ; h ounce compound tinc-
ture of gentian ; and 1 drachm muriatic ether.
Dose, a table-spoonful 3 times a day.
5700. Dandelion Pills. Take 30 grains
extract of dandelion, and 6 grains calomel;
make into 10 pills. 2 taken 3 times a day are
a useful remedy for dropsy in the belly aris-
ing from disorder of the liver. (See No.
5697.)
5701. Infusion of Dandelion. Steep
2 ounces bruised dandelion root in 1 pint boil-
ing water. After 24 hours strain. 2 table-
spoonfuls 4 times a day is a remedy for dropsy.
(See No. 5697.)
5702. Sick Headache. This usually
proceeds from acidity and overloading the
stomach. "WTien it is not from improper eat-
ing, all that is necessary is to soak the feet in
hot water for 15 minutes, drink some warm
herb tea, retire to bed, and take a good sweat
for about an hour. This will give relief. If
the trouble arises from over-eating, relief may
bo obtained by taking an emetic. (See No.
5169.)
5703. Periodical Sick Headache.
Those who are afflicted periodically with
sick headache, accompanied with nausea and
sometimes with vomiting, may obtain relief
by soaking the feet in hot water, and using
the emetic directed in No. 5169. This treat-
ment should be followed by taking the lenitive
electuary. (See No. 5154.)
5704. Wervous Headache may bo re-
lieved by using one of the evaporating lotions.
(See No. 4843.) An application of the " Good
Samaritan " is also very effectual. (See No.
4858.) Any of the remedies under tho head
of neuralgia are also recommended for severe
attacks. (Sec Nos. 5544, <f-c.)
5705. To Relieve Nervous Headache.
From 10 to 20 drops sal-volatile (aqua ammo-
nia) in i wine-glass of water will frequently
give relief; a dose of 10 drops, and repeated
at intervals of 10 minutes, seldom fails.
5706. Remedy for Sick Headache.
It is stated that 2 tea-spoonfuls of finely pow-
dered charcoal, drank in half a tumbler of
water, will give immediate relief to tho sick
headache, when caused, as in most cases it is,
by too much acid on the stomach. This rem-
edy has been highly recommended. (Sec also
Antacids, No. 5678.)
5707. Bisulphide of Carbon a Reme-
dy for Headache. Dr. Keunion thus de-
scribes the mode of application of this rem-
edy : A small quantity of the solution (about
2 drachms) is poured upon cotton-wool, with
which a small wide-mouthed glass-stoppered
bottle is half filled. This, of course, absorbs
the fluid ; and, when the remedy has to be
496
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
used, the mouth of the bottle is to be applied
closely (so that none of the volatile vapor may
escape) to the temple, or behind the ear, or as
near as possible to the seat of pain, and so
held for from 3 to 5 minutes. After it has
been applied for a minute or two, a sensation
is felt as if several leeches were biting the
part; and, after a lapse of a few minutes
more, the smarting and pain become rather
severe, but subside almost immediately after
the removal of the bottle. The effect of this
application is generally immediate. (British
Med. Journ.)
5708. Simple Remedy for Piles.
Take fresh white pine pitch in pills, from
12 to 20 a day, and sit in a tub of cold water
4 or 5 times a day, 30 minutes each time, for
a month. A very obstinate case of piles was
cured by this treatment.
5709. Internal Remedy for Piles.
Pulverize in a mortar and mix thoroughly,
1 ounce each of cream of tartar, jalap, senna,
flowers of sulphur, and golden seal, and i
ounce saltpetre. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times
a day.
5710. External Remedy for Piles. Boil
some of the inner bark of white oak in water,
and strain ; evaporate to a thick extract. To
J pint of this extract, add \ pint of oil ren-
dered from old, strong bacon. Simmer to-
gether till mixed, and let it cool. Apply with
the finger inside the rectum every night and
until cured.
5711. Persulphate of Iron for Piles.
An ointment made of \ drachm persulphate
of iron, and 1 ounce simple salve, has been
found especially beneficial in cases of ulcera-
ted hemorrhoid. Dr. Geo. S. Cartwright de-
scribes a case of hemorrhoid in which there
was an external tumor of the size of a large
pea, protruding, at certain times, to the size
of a walnut. He applied lead water freely to
the part, with an application of this salve
before the patient retired at night, and the
effect was almost immediate, relieving the
pain and cauterizing the part. The effect of
this salve is permanent. The same physician
occasionally uses the ointment with double
the above proportion of the persulphate.
5712. Treatment for Irregular Men-
struation, or Monthly Flow. Where the
flow is absent, or irregular. The treatment
of cases of this kind should embrace every
Eossible means of improving the general
ealth, particularly the enjoyment of pure air,
and the use of the shower or hip-bath ; mode-
rate exercise, especially on horseback ; with a
wholesome nutritious diet. The medical
treatment must not be trifled with, as it re-
quires considerable watching; it should
therefore be earned out under the eye of a
skillful physician. "When the slightest ap-
pearance of menstruation takes place, the
patient should bo kept as quiet as possible ;
and, in order to encourage the flow, recourse
should be had to the use of the warm hip-
bath ; indeed, very frequently it will be
found that a hot hip-bath, containing a hand-
ful of the flowers of mustard, used every
night for the week preceding the regular
time for the flow to appear, and accompanied
by a good rubbing with a rough towel of the
hips and lower part of the front of the body
will greatly assist in bringing on the flow.
5713. Treatment for Interrupted or
Suppressed Menstruation. The same
suggestions in the way of treatment apply as
n No. 5712. "When interruption has taken
)lace suddenly, recourse should be had to the
warm hip-bath, bed, and some warm drink,
such as sherry and water, or a little brandy,
or hot ginger water. When cessation for
one or more periods has occurred, then it is
specially important to favor, as much as pos-
sible, its restoration by attention to those
particulars of general treatment already ad-
verted to.
5714. Treatment of Excessive Men-
struation. Those who are liable to this
'orm of irregular menstruation should be
;areful in their diet, choosing a plain and nu-
tritious one. They should attend to the
function of the bowels, and maintain a hor-
izontal posture from the time when the dis-
charge commences till its cessation. In ad-
dition, if the discharge, besides being copious,
is continuous, recurring over and over again,
it is necessary to have recourse to powerful
remedies. "When the discharge is so profuse
as rapidly to reduce the patient's strength,
still more, if by it, as has happened some-
times, life be brought into peril, local means
of arresting bleeding must also be adopted;
foremost among these is the application of
cold — cold cloths placed over the lower part
of the body, and to the groins. Injections of
cold water may further be employed if the
nurse or relatives are skilled in the use of the
injecting instrument, but not otherwise.
5715. Difficult or Painful Menstrua-
tion. The most common form of this com-
plaint is ranged under the head of neuralgia,
for the violent pain with which it is accom-
panied bears a close resemblance to neuralgic
pains experienced in other parts of the body.
In such, if the affection is of long standing,
the nervous system generally has probably
sympathized, and headache, with hysteria
and many other distressing symptoms, ac-
company the menstrual disorder. Many
cases of this nature are connected with
marked constitutional derangement, more
particularly with gout and rheumatism. For
the relief to the extreme pain which accom-
panies the complaint, soothing remedies
are rendered indispensable, and the most
Suitable niedical ones will be prescribed by
the medical attendant. In his absence, or
conjoined to the medicines, the warm hip-
bath may be tried, followed by the application
of mustard poultices, or flannel wrung out
of hot water and sprinkled with turpentine,
over the lower part of the back. In the gen-
eral treatment, the greatest attention must
be paid to diet and regimen.
5716. Remedy for Suppressed Men-
struation. Make into 12 pills, 12 grains
sulphate of iron, 6 grains powdered aloes, and
12 grains white turpentine. Dose, 1 at bed-
time. (See No. 5441.;
5717. Ashwell's Injection for Ob-
structed Menstruation. Mix 1 to 2 fluid
drachms liquor of ammonia with 1 pint of
milk ; use thrice daily, commencing with the
least quantity of ammonia.
5718. Injection for Obstructed Men-
struation. Take 1 fluid drachm liquor of
ammonia, 1 ounce mucilage, and 9 fluid oun-
MEDJCAL RECEIPTS.
497
ces water ; use in the same way as the last
receipt.
5719. Pills for Suppressed Menstru-
ation. Take dried sulphate of iron, 1 scru-
ple ; powdered aloes, 2 scruples ; powdered
cloves,' 5 grains ; Venice turpentine, sufficient
to make a mass, and divide into 20 pills. One
pill 3 times a day.
5720. To Relieve Vomiting During
Pregnancy. Mix 2 ounces sweet tincture of
rhubarb, and 1 ounce compound tincture of
gentian. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times a day.
5721. To Cure Vomiting in Preg-
nancy. Mix 1 drachm carbonate of magne-
sia, i ounce tincture of Colombo, 5i ounces
peppermint water. Take a table-spoonful 3
times a day.
5722. Citric Acid in After-pains. Dr.
J. B. Chagnon recommends citric acid for the
pains following labor, and declares that it has
never failed in his hands. lie gives 5 grains
in 2 or 3 ounces of water every 5 hours. It
acts as a nervine, and as a preventive of in-
flammation.
5723. Pills to Remove Obstructions
in Females. Aloes and lobelia, 1 drachm
each ; black cohosh, gum myrrh, tansy, uni-
corn root, 1 ounce each ; cayenne, J ounce.
Mix, and form into pills with solution of gum.
These pills remove female obstructions, and
are good for headaches, lowness of spirits,
nervousness, and sallowness of the skin.
5724. 'Female Regulating Pills.
Aloes, red oxido of iron, white turpentine,
1 ounce each. Melt the turpentine, and
strain ; mix well ; form into pills with muci-
lage. Take 2 or 3 per day.
5725. Alum Injection for Leucor-
rhcea. Compound solution of alum, G
drachms ; water, 1 quart. Mix, and use
it lukewarm.
5726. Lead Injection for Leucbr-
rhoea. Sugar of lead, GO grains ; water, 1
quart. Mix.
5727. Catechu Injection for Leu-
corrhcea. Catechu, 1 drachm ; myrrh, 1
drachm ; lime-water, 12 ounces. Mix, and
dilute with water.
5728. Caustic Injection for Leucor-
rhcea. titrate of silver, 35 grains ; water, 1
quart. Mix.
5729. Zinc Injection for Leucor-
rhcea. Sulphate of zinc, 40 grains ; water,
1 quart. Mix.
5730. To Cure Sore Nipples. This
painful affection of the breast, especially so
during the period of nursing, may be cured
as follows : Arrest the bleeding by a slight
application of compound tincture of henzoin,
carefully dry the parts with a soft muslin
handkerchief; apply a solution of gutta-
percha, so as to completely surround the
nipple and cover all abrasions, giving it three
or four coatings, allowing each to dry thor-
oughly before repeating the application. Du-
ring the act of suction, a boxwood shield,
with calf s teat, should bo used, and in the
course of a few days all will be well. The
solution of gutta-percha is prepared by dis-
solving 1 drachm gutta percha in a bottle
containing 3 drachms chloroform. The film
rapidly formed by the evaporation of the
chloroform is firm, elastic, and harmless, and,
should it rub off, is very easily replaced. The
almost painless nature of the treatment, the
effectual protection from the contact of tho
air and irritation of the infant's mouth re-
commend it strongly to general use.
5731. Harjand's Gonorrhoea Cure.
Mix together li ounces powdered cubebs ; k
ounce balsam copaiba; -J- ounce powdered
gum-arabic ; and 3 ounces cinnamon water.
A table-spoonful of the mixture to be taken
at intervals 8 times a day.
5732. Harland's Gonorrhoea Injec-
tion. Mix 2 scruples Armenian bole, and 10
grains sulphate of zinc, with 4 ounces water.
Inject 3 or 4 times a day.
5733. Goddard's Gonorrhoea Mixture.
Take 2 drachms oil of cubebs; i ounce bal-
sam of copaiba ; 1 ounce each syrup of tolu
and syrup of poppy; 2 drachms strong liquor
of potassa ; 1 drachm oil of juniper ; and 2^-
ounces peppermint water. A table-spoonful 3
times a day.
5734. Goddard's Gonorrhoea Injec-
tion. Mix 3 drachms solution of iodide of
iron with 4 ounces spring water. Apply with
a syringe 3 times a day.
5735. Spackman's Copaiba Mixture.
Mix together 2 drachms syrup of gum-arabic ;
i ounce balsam of copaiba; 24 drops oil or
cubebs ; 1 ounce syrup of balsam of tolu ; i
ounce each sweet spirits of nitre and com-
pound tincture of opium ; 20 drops tincture
of opium; 3 drops oil of lavender, and 3
drachms compound spirits of lavender. Dose,
a table-spoonful 3 times a day.
5736. Permanganate " of Potassa in
Gonorrhoea. Dr. John G. Rich has em-
ployed this remedy with great success. Ho
begins the treatment with a purgative, and
then uses as an injection, 3 times a day, 6
grains of permanganate of potassa dissolved in
1 ounce water.
5737. To Apply Caustic to the Ure-
thra. A weak solution of nitrate of silver
(2 or 3 grains in 1 ounce rose-water), may bo
used as an injection twice a day. Some pre-
fer a stronger solution of 10 grains to tho
ounce, injected every 2 or 3 days. It may bo
also administered as an ointment of 10 to £0
grains to tho ounce, smeared on a bougie and
introduced into the urethra. This is perhaps
better for severer cases of gonorrhoea; tho in-
jections answering the purpose for milder cases,
and gleet.
5738. Ricord's Gonorrhoea Injection.
Mix 15 grains each sulphate of zinc and acetate
of lead, with 6i ounces rose-water. Inject 3
times. a day.
5739. Cure for Nocturnal Emissions.
Mix 50 grains bromide of potassa with 25
grains each aromatic powder and whito
sugar. Make up into 12 powders, 1 to be
taken 2 or 3 times a day.
5740. Remedy for Difficulty in Uri-
nating. Mix together 1 scruple each oil of
turpentine, extract of henbane, and soap.
Make it into 12 pills, and administer 1 pill 3
times a day.
5741 . To Relieve Spasm of the Blad-
der. To relieve the spasm, place the patient
in a hot bath immediately, and keep him there,
supplying fresh hot Water when required,
until he is relieved, or he becomes at all faint
or fatigued. Then put him into a bed which
has previously been well warmed, and keep
498
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
hot cloths, hot salt, hot bran, or hot tins ap-
plied, to prevent a return of the pain if possi-
ble ; and as the medical treatment is of great
consequence, lose no time in summoning the
medical man.
5742. Remedy for Disease of the
Kidneys. Boil 1 ounce pareira brava in
3 pints of water until it is only 1 pint. Dose,
a wine-glassful 3 times a day.
5743. Remedy for Incontinence of
Urine. Put 4 drops tincture of aconite root
in a tumbler of water. Dose, a tea-spoonful
every hour until relieved.
5744. Remedy for Nocturnal Incon-
tinence of Urine. Nocturnal incontinence
of urine has been treated successfully by ad-
ministering from 15 to 20 minims of tincture
of belladonna 3 times daily.
5745. Remedy for Incontinence of
Urine of Old People. The continued use
of 1 to 6 drops tincture of iodine daily has
proved a successful remedy.
5746. Remedy for * Spermatorrhoea.
Gelseminum, £ grain ; lupuliu, 3 grains. To be
taken each night on retiring. Gradually di-
minish the dose as the patient shows signs of
improvement.
5747. Belladonna as a Remedy for
Typhoid Fever. Dr. B. Kelly, of Dublin,
has met with great success in the use of bel-
ladonna in typhoid fever. Within 24 hours
after the first dose, he found delirium, <fec.,
vanish, succeeded by calm, natural sleep,
clearness of intellect, and complete repose of
the system, accompanied by regular evacua-
tions. Dr. Lewis S. Pilcher, of the U. S.
Navy, reports equally successful results from
the use of this drug. The amount and fre-
quency of the dose will probably be under-
stood by every physician, as the authorities
above quoted do not specify these points.
5748. Remedy for Festering1 Wounds
and Cancers. Professor Boettger recom-
mends gun cotton, saturated with a solution
of permanganate of potassa, put up in the
form of a poultice, and held over an open
wound by a bandage, as the best disinfectant
for bad odors that can bo conveniently ap-
plied. The strength of the solution of per-
manganate, best adapted for the purpose, is 1
;art, by weight, of the dry permanganate, in
00 parts water. Ordinary cotton cannot be
taken, as it readily decomposes, but gun cot-
ton is permanent, and not liable to explosion
when in a moist state.
5749. Treatment for Measles. In the
treatment of the ordinary cases of measles
occurring in children otherwise than delicate,
little is necessary beyond attention to the
temperature of the room, the amount of the
bed-clothes, preventing the access of too
strong a light, which affects the eyes, <fcc.
Great care should be taken that draughts of
cold air are avoided, lest they might prove
the cause of increase in the chest complaint,
which generally attends the attack; and,
while the room is not overheated, it must not,
for the same reason, be allowed to be cool.
It must be remembered that in measles, as in
all fevers accompanied by an eruption, the
patient will require a more abundant supply
of blankets, «fec., before the eruption appears,
than after it. Indeed, afterwards, he gener-
ally desires light clothing. The room should
be well ventilated ; all excrements and dirty
linen immediately removed. Disinfectants
should be used. The sense of heat and dry-
ness of the body, sometimes most distressing
to the patient, can be much alleviated by
washing the surface with soap and tepid
water; too great exposure being avoided by
one part of the body being cleansed, dried,
and covered, before the rest is exposed. The
feeling of tension of the hands and feet can be
relieved by rubbing these parts with some
greasy matter, such as lard or simple salve.
All sources of annoyance or irritation, all
noises, should be avoided, and thus sleep is
promoted, a condition which most materially
affects the welfare of the patient, sleep lessen-
ing the fever and increasing the appetite.
Food, light and nutritious, such as arrowroot,
gruel, good beef-tea, milk, chicken, or veal
broth, plain wine, jellies, &c., should be
given at the usual hours. The quantity
should be moderate, great care being taken
that the digestion be not impaired by too
large a quantity being taken. Should the
patient be very weak, the food must be ad-
ministered in small quantities at frequently
repeated intervals. There is no stimulant so
important as food. The prospect of recovery
in all fevers is very greatly if not mainly de-
pendent on the power of digesting and assim-
ilating food possessed by the patient. The
bowels should be moved by a mild laxative,
such as the lenitive electuary (see No. 5154),
effervescing magnesia, or castor oil ; and, so
as to produce a little perspiration, a small
dose (for a child. atea-?poonful), of mindt?renis
spirit (see No. 5143), in a little water, may lie
given at intervals of 2 or 3 hours. If the
rash is long in appearing, or shows a disposi-
tion to disappear, the development of the
eruption may be secured by placing the child
in a warm bath; if the child appears sunk
and the pulse be feeble, a little warm wine
and water may be administered. In ordinary
cases, the early appearance of the eruption
will be favored by administering a dose of
sulphur (a small tea-spoonful for a child, in
milk); and if there be much hoarseness, and
croupy character of the breathing and cough,
it will be expedient to apply a hot sponge
over the throat. (See No. 5620.) With the
appearance of the eruption, these symptoms
usually decline. Measles not unfrequently
terminate in an attack of bowel complaint;
this may be slight, and if so, will not require
any medicinal treatment ; indeed, it is salu-
tary, but, on the other hand, when severe,
and occurring in a delicate child, prompt
means for arresting it must be adopted (such
as are mentioned under the head of Diarrhea.
(See No. 5G52, ^-c.) If there be often-repeated
sickness, food of the very blandest nature,
pounded raw meat (the fat and gristle being
removed before pounding), beef-tea, uncooked
white of egg diluted with water, barley
water, &c., should be given in small quanti-
ties, and be very frequently repeated. Thirst,
and the consequent restlessness, must be al-
layed by drinks. Large draughts should be
prohibited, as they tend to impair the diges-
tion, and sometimes cause diarrhea; small
quantities, swallowed slowly, or ice to suck,
are sufficient to allay thirst, and also prove
grateful to the patient. The patient, however,
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
499
must be rJlowed to take larger quantities of
fluids than in health, as an increased quantity
is required by the system during the existence
of fever. Acid, or acid and bitter drinks are
generally found to lessen thirst to a greater
degree than mere water, and are, moreover,
grateful to the patent. Lemonade with very
little sugar, or raspberry vinegar and water,
will be found useful. Stimulants are admin-
istered to support the strength of the patient.
This they do in a great measure by promoting
digestion, and by also directly increasing the
force of the heart's action. The administra-
tion and quantity of stimulants given cannot
bo regulated by the condition of the patient.
Medical ad vice" is particularly necessary here.
Various complications are apt to take place,
RO that, if possible, advice should be had
early in the day. If no advice is at hand,
the symptoms must bo treated according
to the directions given under the particular
heads.
5750. Scarlet Fever. The preliminary
treatment for this disease is very similar to
that for measles. Give the patient a gentle
cathartic, and keep very warm in bed until the
eruption appears. (See No. 5749.) The after-
treatment consists of administering a gargle
every 15 minutes, when the patient is awake.
Make a gargle of 2 table-spoonfuls each
brewer's yeast and strained honey, mixed
with 1 pint strong sage tea, and alternate it
with the potassa gargle. (See No. 5034.)
Keep the skin of tho patient moist by wash-
ing all over, at least 3 times a day, with a so-
lution of saleratus aud water as hot as it can
be borne ; after each washiug grease tho pa-
tient all over thoroughly, with a piece of 1'at
bacon. Great care must be taken to prevent
the patient from catching cold iu every stage
of the disease, and the same cautions about
ventilation, warmth, diet, <fcc., given under
tho head of measles, must also be observed
in the treatment of scarlet fever. The patient
must not be exposed to any great or sudden
changes of temperature, even 3 weeks after
convalescence, as a relapse might bo the con-
sequence.
5751. Preliminary Treatment of
Scarlatina and Measles. The preliminary
treatment is simple : from k gram calomel,
for children, to 5 grains for adults, should be
placed on the tongue and swallowed. About
an hour after, the first dose of the amYnonia
(.?ee next receipt) is to be given, aud repeated
every 3 or 4 hours, as long as the disorder
takes a favorable course. If the disorder in-
creases in violence, the medicine must be
given every 2 hours, or every hour, or some-
times even more frequently, till the graver
symptoms are subdued. This medicine has
been found to possess similar powers over
diphtheria.
5752. Treatment of Scarlatina and
Measles. Dr. Witt states that sesquicarbon-
ate of ammonia is an antidote to scarlatina
and measles. The dose in these complaints
varies from 3 to 10 grains, according to the
age of tho patient, given at longer or shorter
intervals, according to the mildness or sever-
ity of the attack. The suitable dose dissolved
in as small a quantity of cold water as will
admit of its being swallowed with as many
grains of loaf sugar, merely to make it palata-
ble, is all that is required. Any admixture
with other medicines, as salines, bark, «fcc.,
and all acidulous drinks, are to be avoided. .
5753. Preventive of Scarlet Fever.
Belladonna has been found to render persons
unsusceptible to the fever, in places where it
is raging. It is to be given in extract, s!<j-
grain morning and evening.
5754. Bexnedy for Dropsy in Scarla-
tina. Mix together lj drachms acetate of
potassa; 6 grains extract of foxglove; 2
drachms vinegar of squill ; 6 drachms syrup
of ginger ; and 2 ounces water. Dose, 1 tea-
spoonful every 3 hours.
5755. Atlee's Scarlet Fever Remedy.
^ ounce each chlorate of potassa and hydro-
chloric acid, and i ounce spring water.
Dose, 10 drops in a wine-glassful of cold wa-
ter every 2 hours.
5756. Intermittent Fever Pills.
Take 10 to 12 grains white oxide of arsenic ;
1 drachm muriate of ammonia, and 12 grains
gum opium. Make into 04 pills. Dose, 1 to
be taken morning, noon and night, with or
without fever.
5757. Intermittent Fever Mixture.
Take 5 grains tannin, 1G grains .sulphate of
quinine, 1 ounce syrup of ginger, and A ounce
cinnamon water. Take 1 tea-spoonful every
hour, in the absence of the fever..
5758. Treatment of Small-Pox.
Advice should always be obtained as soon as
the earliest symptoms appear; often the
only symptom understood by the parents or
friends is the eruption.. la the absence of
advice, the simpler cases of small-pox, un-
attended by much eruption, scarcely require
any further treatment than confinement of
tho patient to bed, aclminstering at tho
commencement a dose of aperient medicine,
such as effervescing magnesia (see No, 4805,
<ji'C.,) or castor oil, <tc., and, .until tho erup-
tion appears, of a f:;w doses of mindererus
spirit (see No. 5143), to promote perspiration.
In the more severe cases there are individual
symptoms of an unfavorable nature not un-
likely to be developed, and these must be met
by appropriate treatment. The imperfect
filling of the pustules is generally accom-
panied by a low form of fever, requiring tho
use of stimulants, wine or brandy; these
must, of course, be administered with great
caution. In all stages, if tho patient present
a sunken look, and the pulse be feeble, the
necessity for stimulants is indicated. By
giving them with caution is meant that only
just sufficient to keep tip the vital powers
should bo given.
5759. To Prevent Pitting in Small-
Pox. Tho following has been f;;und very
effectual : The application consists of a solu-
tion of india-rubber in chloroform, which is
painted with a camel-hair pencil over tho sur-
face of the skin, where exposed, when the
eruption has become fully developed. TFhen
the chloroform has evaporated, which it very
readily does, there is left a thin elastic film
of india-rubber over the face. This the pa-
tient feels to be rather comfortable, as it re-
moves itching and all irritation; and, what
is more important, pitting, once BO common,
is thoroughly prevented by the application.
In making the solution, the india-rulilicr
must be cut into small pieces, and chloroform
5OO
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
added till it is dissolved. Gutta-percha has
been tried, but has not answered, on account
of its non-elasticity. Should any of the solu-
tion, from some cause, be torn off, apply the
solution as before.
5760. Dr. George's Treatment to
Prevent Pitting in Small-Pox. Dr.
George recommends the following treatment :
Firstly, from the commencement of the dis-
ease cover the whole body, face and all, with
calamine, shaken through a common pepper-
box, taking care that the powder does not
remain in masses. The inflammation, on
each pustule is by these applications much
lessened, a point of great consequence. Sec-
ondly, sprinkle about 1 ounce powdered cam-
phor every 2 or 3 nights between the tinder
sheet and blanket, the -whole length of the
body, putting more about the shoulders and
neck. The relief obtained by this, few "would
credit until they had had experience. Third-
lv, in the advanced stage of the disease,
should hardened incrustations have formed,
they may be removed, and without much
pain too ; for in one case every portion of
the cuticle was removed from the whole face,
forehead, and even eyelids, the calamine ap-
Elied, and in a few days the cuticle was
srmed again without a blemish.
5761. Calamine. Kative carbonate of
zinc. It is prepared and purified for medi-
cinal purposes by heating to redness, and
pulverizing it, afterwards reducing it to an
impalpable powder in the same manner as
directed for prepared chalk. (See No.
1292.)
5762. To Remove Pitting and Old
Pock-Marks. To remove pitting and old
pock-marks, simple oil, pomade, or ointment,
medicated with crotou-oil, and of a strength
just sufficient to raise a very slight pustular
eruption, is probably the safest and most
effective and convenient of all the prepara-
tions that are employed for the purpose. It
has for some years been successfully employ-
ed in France and has there received medical
approval. Dr. Cooley says he has seen it
sxicceed to admiration, when every other
method has failed. It should be applied at
intervals extending over several weeks, as
the feelings, experience, and convenience of
the party concerned may indicate, due care
and caution being observed the wholo time.
5763. Treatment of an Attack of
Apoplexy. Loosen the clothes, especially
those about the neck and throat, and send at
once for a physician. Meanwhile, remove
the patient into a cool, well-ventilated room,
raise the head above the level of the body,
and apply cold to the head, either by means
of rags dipped in water, never allowing them
to become warm, or by ice in a bladder, «tc.
The diet will require great care when the
patient is reviving. Only very small quanti-
ties of milk, beef-tea, &c., must be given
until ho is able to digest more. Supposing
the patient to recover from the fit, great care
will be afterwards required to prevent a
second attack. Strong medicines, great ex-
citement, or much mental occupation are to
be avoided. The diet ought to be light, but
nutritious; milk is useful, taken to the extent
of 1£ or 2 pints in the day ; and, as a rule, no
spirits or wine should be allowed.
5764. Remedy for Shortness of
Breath. Take spirits of ether, 1 ounce, and
camphor, 12 grains. Make a solution, of
which take a tea-spoonful during the parox-
ysm. This is usually found to afford in-
stantaneous relief in difficult breathing, de-
pending on internal disease and other causes,
where the patient, from a quick and very
laborious breathing, is obliged to be in an
erect posture.
5765. To Relieve Shortness of Breath.
Take J ounce powder of elecampane root, £
ounce powder of liquorice, as much flower of
brimstone and powder of aniseed, and 2 oun-
ces sugar-candy powdered. Make all into
pills, with a sufficient quantity of tar; take 4
large pills when going to rest. This is an in-
comparable medicine for asthma.
5766. Palpitation of the Heart.
Soda water, either the usual carbonated wa-
ter, or prepared from effervescing soda pow-
ders, frequently gives instant relief in an at-
tack of palpitation of the heart.
5767. To Relieve Palpitation of the
Heart. Take 40 drops tincture of digitalis
(fox-glove) ; 20 drops tincture of aconite ; 2
drachms tincture of henbane ; 6 drachms
camphor- water. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times
a day.
5768. Biliousness. Persons subject to
bilious attacks should be particularly careful
to guard against excess in eating and drink-
ing, and should especially avoid those articles
of food which, from experience, they find to
disagree with them. A mutton chop under-
cooked is an excellent article for the b'reak-
fast or lunch of a bilious patient; and mutton
or beef, either broiled or roasted, so that the
gravy be retained, is better for dinner than
many articles apparently more delicate.
Beer and porter should be particularly avoid-
ed, as well as puddings and most articles of
pastiy, as they are very indigestible. Hard
cheese, butter, unripe fruit, and especially
beans, peas, and nuts, are also objectionable.
An attack of bile may frequently be prevent-
ed by the use of a saline purgative, and it
may generally be removed by a blue pill, fol-
lowed with a mild purgative.
5769. To Remove Tumors. To re-
move tumors, Dr. Simpson, of Edinburgh, in-
troduces a hollow acupuncture needle, or very
fine trocar (a surgical instrument in the
form of a fine hollow needle) into their tis-
sue, and injects a few drops of some irritant
liquid, such as a solution of chloride of zinc,
perchloride of iron, or creosote. The effect
has been to destroy the vitality of the tu-
mors so treated, and they have been separa-
ted. A similar plan has been adopted in
Paris by M. Maisonneuye. He had slender
stylets made of a paste composed of flour,
water, and chloride of zinc. These are
baked. A puncture is made in the tumor,
the caustic stylet is inserted, broken off, and
left. Several malignant tumors have been
successfully treated in this manner, and in
some cases a healthy granulating surface
was left, after the separation of tumors which
had been destroyed in this manner.
5770. Treatment of Rupture. Enp-
ture is generally caused by a strain or an
accident, and should be attended to by a sur-
geon as soon as possible. Meanwhile the
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
501
patient must bo iaid upon a sofa or bed with
his hips and legs slightly raised, so as to give
him ease and to place the rapture in the
most favorable position for being restored to
its proper place. If the patient is faint, sup-
port him by giving wine and •water, or sal-
volatile, or a little broth, but do not over-stim-
ulate him. In other respects he must be kept
perfectly quiet.
5771. To Believe Lockjaw. Let any
one who has an attack of lockjaw take a
small quantity of spirits of turpentine, warm
it, and pour it on the wound, no matter
where the wound is, or what its nature is,
and relief will follow in less than 1 minute.
Nothing better can be applied to a severe cut
or bruise than cold turpentine; it will give
certain relief almost instantly.
5772. Cure for Cancer. The use of
clover tea is said to effect speedy and effectual
cures of cancer, even in its most malignant
form, and of long standing. The red clover
is used ; the tops are boiled in water, and the
tea is used externally and internally. About
a quart a day should be administered internal-
ly, and the tea should be used as a wash twice
everv day.
5773. Remedy for Scrofula. Put 1
ounce aqua-1'ortis in a bowl or saucer; drop
in it 2 copper cents; when the effervescence
ceases, add 2 ounces strong vinegar. The
fluid will be of a dark green color. It should
and will smart. If too severe, dilute it with
a little rain-water. Apply it to the sore,
morning and evening, by a soft brush or a
rag. Before applying it, wash the sore with
water. This receipt comes well recommended
for curing old sores and other scrofulous erup-
tions.
5774. Anti-Scrofulous Mixture. Mix
30 drops tincture of bichloride of gold1; 40
drops tincture of iodine; 1 fluid drachm tinc-
ture of gentian; 7 fluid drachms simple syrup,
and 5 fluid ounces rose-water. Dose, a des-
sert-spoonful 3 or 4 times daily, in a wine-
glassful of water, observing to shake well
before pouring out the liquid.
5775. White Swelling. This is a very
painful disease ; it more frequently affects the
knee than any other joint; sometimes the
hip, ankle, and elbow. At first a severe pain
is felt penetrating the joint, or only one par-
ticular part of the joint. The least motion
aggravates the pain. It soon begins to swell
considerably, and suppuration takes place.
Matter is discharged from several openings or
ulcers, the bones are affected; and if the dis-
ease is not arrested the life of the patient is
endangered.
5776. Treatment of White Swelling.
Attend to the stomach and bowels, giving an
emetic and an aperient, if needed ; to be fol-
lowed by bitter tonics occasionally, giving the
alterative syrup (see No. 51G3), diluted when
first taken; or a decoction of sarsaparilla,
sassafras, guaiacum, queen's delight, unicorn
root, cleavers, and prickly ash berries, of each
1 ounce. Simmer in a covered pan with 2
quarts water down to 3 pints. Sweeten. A
dessert-spoonful 3 or 4 times a day. Steam
the part with bitter herbs, and now and then
give a vapor bath to the whole body. After
steaming the affected part, rub the limb
with the rheumatic liquid. (See No. 4684.)
5777. Beach's Cure for White Swell-
ing. Oil of hemlock, oil of sassafras, gum
camphor, tincture of opium, £ ounce each, and
a pint of spirits of wine. "When dissolved
and properly mixed, bathe the part with it
frequently. Then apply an oatmeal and bran
poultice, mixed with a little finely powdered
charcoal, salt, and cayenne pepper. If the
pain is great, sprinkle on the poultice J ounce
laudanum. Keep it on as long as possible, and
then steam.
5778. To Believe Sea-Sickness. Take
camphorated spirit, sal-volatile, and Hoffman's
anodyne, a few drops of each, mixed in a
small quantity of water, or upon a email lump
of sugar. This often relieves when other
prescriptions fail.
5779. To Prevent Sea-Sickness. The
neutralizing mixture (see No. 5GGG) is a good
preventive. So is a tea-spoonful of bicarbon-
ate of soda in i pint of water. Take an
aperient before a voyage. One of the best
means of counteracting the tendency to sea-
sickness, is to keep a horizontal position. A
little chloroform has lately been suggested as
a good remedy. 5 to 10 drops on a piece of
lump sugar.
57Sp. Treatment of Debility. This
arises from a diseased action of the stomach;
the occasional use of mild aperients, fol-
lowed by bitters and tonics, is the best treat-
ment. TVhen, from a general laxity of the
solids, and there are no symptoms of fever,
nor a tendency of the blood to the head, a
course of iron tonics will prove advantageous.
Either of the following may be adopted for
this purpose: Pure sulphate of iron, 1 drachm;
extract of gentian and powdered ginger, of
each 1-J- drachms ; beat together into a mass,
and divide into 120 pills, 1 to be taken morn-
ing, noon, and night. Or : Sulphate of iron,
and powdered myrrh, of each 1 drachm ; sul-
phate of quinine, i drachm; conserve of roses,
sufficient to form a pill mass. Divide into 120
pills, administered as the last.
5781. Remedy for Sick Stomach and
Vomiting. Mix 24 drops creosote, 1 drachm
each white sugar and gum-arabic, with 3
ounces water. Administer a tea-spoonful
every 2 hours, until vomiting ceases.
5782. Sunstroke. This is a sudden
prostration due to long exposure to great heat,
especially when much fatigued or exhausted.
It commonly happens from nndue exposure
to the sun's rays in summer, but the same
effects have been produced in a baker from
great heat of the hake-room. It begins with
pain in the head, or dizziness, quickly followed
by loss of consciousness and complete prostra-
tion. Sometimes, however, the attack is as
sudden as a stroke of apoplexy. The head 13
often burning hot, the face dark and swollen,
the breathing labored and snoring, and the
extremities cold.
5783. Treatment of Sunstroke. Take
the patient at once to a cool and shady place,
but don't carry him far to a house or hospital.
Loosen the clothes thoroughly about his neck
and waist. Lay him down with the head a
little raised. Apply wet cloths to the head,
and mustard or turpentine to the calves of the
legs and the soles of the feet. Give a little
weak whiskey and water if he can swallow.
Meanwhile let some one go for the doctor.
5O2
MEDICAL RECEIPTS
Toil cannot safely do more "without his ad-
vice.
5784. Precautions Against Night-
mare. Avoid all exciting causes, as too
much abstruse thinking, lato and heavy sup-
pers, food difficult of digestion, cold feet, cos-
tiveness, and flatulence.
5785. To Prevent the Nightmare.
To prevent the nightmare, mix together 10
grains carbonate of soda; 3 drachms com-
pound tincture of cardamoms ; 1 drachm sim-
ple syrup, and 1 ounce peppermint water.
Kepeat for several nights in succession ; after-
wards use for a few weeks the tonic aromatic
mixture. (See JVo. 5124.) Also a little cay-
enne in scullcap tea wfli prevent an attack.
Those who are habitually subject to night-
mare should not sleep in a room alone, but
have some person near them, to arouse them
when attacked with it. A person is most lia-
ble to nightmare "when sleeping on his back ;
ia fact, it rarely occurs in any other posture.
Those subject to it should therefore avoid
sleeping in a bed which is hollow in the centre,
as this induces tho sleeper to lay on his back.
The bed should bo level and not too soft, and
the pillow moderate in thickness, so that the
head is not raised too high.
5788. To Restrain
Perspiration.
Spring water, 2 ounces; diluted sulphuric
acid, 40 drops ; compound spirits of lavender,
2 drachms; take a tablc-spoonfnl twice a
day.
5787. Remedy for Night Sweats of
Consumption. M. Guyot recommends as
particularly useful, in the sweats of consump-
tion, the phosphate of lime in quantities of
from k to li drachms in tho day. In a small
proportion of cases it may be inert; but in the
majority it will diminish or quite remove the
trouble.
57S8. Treatment for Night-Sweats
in Consumption. Powdered boras, 65
drachms; washed sulphur, 1 ounce; sub-
nitrate of bismuth, li drachms; divide into
40 powders, 1 to be given every 2 hours (12 a
day). 4 to 5 days of treatment will suspend
or diminish this troublesome and exhaust-
ing symptom, and give much relief to tho pa-
Dis-
tient.
5789. To Relieve Night-Sweats.
solve 15 grains sulphate of quinine in ^ ounce
essence of tansy, J ounce alcohol, J ounce
water, and 30 drops muriatic acid. A tea-
spoonful taken 2 or 3 times during the day
and at bed-time. In connection with this
remedy, cold sago tea is recommended to be
used freely as a drink.
5790. Squinting. It is well known
that in infancy there is not unfrcqueutly a
tendency to s'quint ; this often passes away as
the child increases in ago; but it sometimes
becomes quite a fixed habit, requiring a surgi-
cal operation for its permanent cure. A means
of rendering this operation unnecessary by
curing tho tendency in early life has been
suggested, which is worthy of trial. A pair
of spectacles is procured without any glasses
in them. One of the orifices opposite the eye
that squints is to be filled with thin horn V>r
with ground glass, and in tho centre of the
horn or glass is to be made a small hole. It
is obvious that to see with the squinting eye
:*-:.. j» A. \ t_ • i ^ A _ i _ . v_ _i • i ^
through the orifice in the centre. He will
thus acquire the habit of looking forward
towards an object, instead of looking to tto
right or left hand of it. It is not at all im-
probable that the slight squint, which in in-
fancy is apparently only a habit, may be reme-
died by this means.
5791. Treatment of Styes. A stye is
a small boil which projects from the eyelid,
much inflamed, and very painful. The appli-
cation of ice to tho part will sometimes check
it in the beginning. Apply a poultice of lin-
seed meal, or bread and milk, and take at the
same time an aperient. If the stye is ripe,
puncture it, and then apply spermaceti oint-
ment.
5792. To Treat a Black Eye. This is
usually caused by a blow. If attended with
inflammation and pain, wash the eye often
with very warm water, in which is dissolved
a little carbonate of soda,; or with equal parts
of tincture of opium and .water. If the pain
bo acute, foment with a decotion of stramo-
nium leaves, simmered in spirits. "Wash the
eye, and bind on the leaves; often repeat.
Perhaps tho best application is a poultice of
slippery elm bark. Mix with milk and put it
To Cure a Black Eye. To re-
on warm.
5793.
move tho discoloration of the eye, bind on a
poultice made of the root of Solomon's seal.
Culpepper says it is available for bruises,
falls, or blows, to dispel the congealed blood,
and to take away tho pains, and the black and
blue marks that remain after the hurt. , The
root may be washed, the dark-colored ' skin
carefully cut off, then scraped like horse-
radish, and applied direct to the eye in the
way of a poultice, cold. A tingling sen-
sation is tho consequence ; when this sen-
sation ceases, another fresh application should
be made, and repeated until the whole dis-
coloration is absorbed. It is often found suffi-
cient to apply the scraped root at bed-time to
tho closed eye, when the blackness has dis-
appeared by the morning. Or: Moisten with
tepid water, and then with a piece of lint ap-
ply pure extract of lead ; continue to keep
the lint wet with the extract for a couple of
hours. Leeches ought not to be used. A
lotion often used by surgeons with advantage
is prepared thus : Take nitrate of potassa and
sal-ammonia, each 1 part; water, 48 parts;
vinegar, 4 parts. The part bruised to be kept
wet with this by means of a bandage.
5794. To Remove Dirt or Foreign
Particles from the Eye. Take a hog's
bristle, double so as to form a loop. Lift the
eyelid and gently insert the loop up over tho
ball, which will occasion no disagreeable feel-
ing. Xow close the lid down upon the bris-
tle, which may now be withdrawn. The dirt
will surely be upon the bristle. M. Renard,
in the case of small movable bodies which
become entangled beneath the upper eyelid,
recommends the following simple process :
Take hold of the upper eyelid near its angle.-1,
with the forefinger and thumb of each hand,
draw it gently forwards and as low down as
possible over the lower eyelid, and retain it in
this position for about a minute, taking caro
to prevent the tears from flowing out. When,
0 .. . at the end of this time, you allow the eyelid
it is necessary for tho child to look directly | to resume its place, a flood of tears washes
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
out the foreign body, which will be found ad- 1 5801. Anodyne Eye- water. Solution,
hering to, or near to, the lower eyelid. If of acetate of ammonia, 2 ounces; distilled
lime gets into the eyes, a few drops of vinegar
and water will dissolve and remove it. Al-
mond or (dive oil will do away with any hot
fluid that may reach the eye.
5795. To Expel Insects, Dirt, &c.,
from the Eye. The first thing to be done
when a mote or spark gets into your eye, is to
pull down the lower part of the eyelid, and
with a handkerchief in your hand blow your
nose violently at the same moment. This
will frequently expel the mote without further
trouble. A mote will, in many cases, come
out of itself, by immediately holding your
eye wide open in a cup or glass filled" to the
brim with clear cold water.
5796. To Extract Particles of Iron
or Steel from the Eye. A particle cf iron
or steel may be extracted from the eye by
holding near it a powerful magnet.
5797. Eye- Waters. Eye-waters should
be perfectly clear, and free from any floating
matter, however trifling. To secure this, it is
in general necessary either to filter them
through bibulous paper,. or a piece of clean,
fine muslin, or to carefully decant them after
sufficient repose to allow the impurities to
subside. When pure distilled water is used
in their preparation, only some of them will
require filtering. In using eye- waters, a little
of the liquid should be poured into a clean
cup, gallipot, or glass, or into the clean palm
of the left hand, when the eye should bo
water, hot, C ounces ; soft extract of opium,
10 grains. Dissolve the opium in the hot wa-
ter, strain through fine muslin, and add tho
solution of the acetate of ammonia. This
application frequently affords great relief
from the pain and irritation accompanying
inflammation.
5802. Eye-water for Specks on the
Eye. Oxymuriate of mercury, 5 grain; best
rose-water, 4 ounces. This solution is of
much use in removing the indolent inflam-
mation and the white specks which an acuto
inflammation of the eyes frequently leaves
after it.
5803. Bates' Eye-water. Dissolve in 4
fluid ounces boiling water, 15 grains dry sul-
phate of copper (sec No. 5797), and 4 grains
camphor. When cold, add water to make it
4 pints, and filter. Good in purulent oph-
thalmia.
5804. Goulard's Eye-water. Solution
diacetate of lead, 10 drops; rose or elder-
flower water, G fluid ounces. Mix. Good in
inflammatory stage of ophthalmia.
5305. Wash for Removing Particles
of Iron or Zinc from the Eye. Muriatic
acid, 20 drops ; mucilage, 1 drachm ; mix with
2 fluid ounces rose-water.
5806. To Allay Temporary Irritation
or Weakness in the Eye. Temporary in-
flammation, produced by cold or external
causes, 13 rapidly allayed by frequently bath-
thoroughly wetted with it, either by means of ing the eye with lukewarm milk and water,
small piece of clean sponge or soft white
rag, or the clean tips of the fingers of the
right hand. In all cases it is advisable to
bathe or wash the e3res in tepid water, and to
wipe them dry, before tho application of the
eye-water; and, in most cases, this is abso-
lutely necessary to insure benefit from their
use. In the preparation of eye-waters, sub-
stances of crystalline formation are better
when used dry, that is, deprived of their wa-
ter of crystallization. (Sec No. 2035.) .
5798. Astringent Eye-water. Take
of sulphate of zinc, 20 grains ; distilled water,
i pint ; dissolve. An excellent astringent
eye-water, in chronic as well as ordinary
ophthalmia, as soon as the inflammatory
symptoms subside; also in weak, lax, wa-
tery, irritable eyes, &c. If there bo much
pain and irritability, 5 or 6 grains of acetate
of morphia, or 2 fluid drachms of wine of
opium, may be added.
5799. Eye-water for Weak Eyes.
Take & ounce rock salt and 1 ounce of dry
sulphate of zinc ; simmer in a perfectly clean
covered porcelain vessel with 3 pints of water
until all are dissolved ; strain through thick
muslin, add 1 ounce of rose-water ; bottle and
cork it tight. To use it, mix 1 tea-spoonful
of rain-water, with 1 of eye-water, and bathe
the eyes, if weak, frequently. If it smarts
too much, add more water; if not enough,
make it a little stronger by adding more eye-
water. This is an admirable wash for weak
eyes. It cannot be excelled.
5800. Wash for Inflamed Eyes. Take
10 drops extract of lead (the liquor of acetate
of lead); distilled vinegar, 2 drachm;;; distill-
ed water, 4 ounces. This is an excellent wash
for inflamed eyes.
or rose-water ; applied either with a linen rag
or by means of an eye-glass. A poultice of
tea-leaves (the wet leaves left in the tea-pot)
is also an excellent remedy. Probably tho
best remedy of all is to put a table-spoonful
of salt in a basin of water (say £ gallon),
immerse the face in this twice a day, opening
the eyes under the water, and using fresh
salt and water every day. Tho eyes should
under no circumstance be rubbed, as that will
increase the irritation.
5807. Atropine Paper.
Green tissue
paper imbued with a solution of sulphate of
atropia, so that a piece one-fifth of an inch
square contains as much as a drop of a solu-
tion 2 grains to 1 ounce of water. The paper
is hung up and turned about while drying. A
piece of the size named will dilate tho pupil if
placed on the sclerotic, and the lids closed over
it and tied with a handkerchief.
5808. Belladonna Mixture for Cata-
ract. Triturate together 1 drachm each ex-
tract of belladonna and glycerine. Used for
dilating the pupil of the eye in cataract, by
anointing the eyebrow and temple.
5809. Taylor's B-emedy for Deafness.
Digest 2 ounces bruised garlic in 1 pound oil
of almonds for a week, and strain. A drop
poured into the ear is effective in temporary
deafness.
5810.
Treatment of Earache. M.
Emile Duval says that he has, in person, found
relief iu. severe earache, after other means had
been tried in vain, from the use of a mixture
of equal parts of chloroform and laudanum;
a little being introduced on a piece of cotton.
The first effect produced is a sensation of
cold; then there is numbness, followed by
scarcely perceptible pain and refreshing sleep.
60-1-
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5811. Cure for the Earache. Take a
small piece of cotton batting or cotton wool,
make a depression in the centre with the fin-
ger, and fill it up with as much ground pepper
as will rest on a five-cent piece ; gather it into
a ball and tie it up ; dip the ball into sweet
oil and insert it in the ear, covering the latter
with cotton wool, and use a bandage or cap
to retain it in its place. Almost instant relief
will be experienced, and the application is so
gentle that an infant will not be injured by it,
but experience relief, as well as adults. 1
part laudanum and 6 parts sweet oil dropped
in the ear is also very effectual.
5812. Simple Cure for Earache. Take
a common tobacco-pipe, place a wad of cotton
in the bowl, drop upon it 8 or 10 drops of
chloroform, and cover with another wad of
cotton ; place the stem to the affected ear,
then blow into the bowl, and in many cases
the pain will cease almost immediately.
5813. Remedy for Inflammation of
the Ear. Swelling and redness, attended
with throbbing, indicates it. If caused by
accumulation of wax, syringe the ear forcibly
with tepid water. If by cold, a poultice of
warm hops, soaking the feet. If the pain is
great, 1 drop laudanum and 2 drops sweet oil
of almonds dropped into the ear 3 times a day,
or juice of onions and laudanum. A slice of
onion, toasted and tied on hot outside the ear,
Is a good remedy for earache in children, and
often effective with adults. If very severe, a
mustard poultice can be held behind the ear.
If the stomach is out of order use an emetic.
If no relief comes, call a physician.
5814. Remedy for Temporary Deaf-
ness. If deaf from hardened wax in the ear,
a mixture of sassafras oil, 10 drops ; glycerine,
1 fluid drachm; olive oil, ^ fluid ounce, mixed,
may be dropped into the ear every day. If
deaf from other causes, go to the physician.
5815. Cure for Temporary Deafness.
Inject warm water into the ear by means of a
proper syringe, the head being placed with
that side upwards during the operation.
5816. To Destroy Insects in the Ear.
Insects may be destroyed by pouring a spoon-
ful of warm olive oil, or camphorated oil, into
the ear over night, retaining it there until the
next morning by means of a piece of cotton
wool, when it may be washed out with a little
mild soap and warm water.
5817. To Cure Habitual Drunken-
ness. The following singular means of cur-
ing habitual drunkenness is employed by Dr.
Schreiber, a Kussian physician: It consists in
confining the drunkard in a room, and in fur-
nishing him at discretion with his favorite
spirit diluted with §- of water ; as much wine
beer, and coffee as he desires, but containing
•J of spirit; all the food — the bread, meat, anc
the vegetables steeped in spirit and water.
The poor patient is continually drunk. On
the fifth day of this treatment he has an ex-
treme disgust for spirit ; he earnestly request?
other diet ; but his desire must not bo yielded
to, until ho no longer desires to cat or drink
he is then certainly cured of his love of drink
He acquires such a disgust for brandy, or other
epirits, that he is ready to vomit at the very
Bisrht of it.
5818. Tonic After Drinking to Excess
Mix together 5 grains sulphate cf quinine ; 10
drops aromatic sulphuric acid ; i ounce com-
pound tincture of gentian; 2 drachms com-
>ound tincture of cardamoms ; IJr ounces gin-
rer syrup; and 2 ounces water. A table-
spoonful administered 3 times a day will
remove the prostrating effects of drinking to
excess.
5819. Remedy for Chafing. Stout per-
ons suffer greatly, cspecialiy in warm weath-
\v, from chafing. We know of nothing' better
;han a wash of alum dissolved in water, and
applied with a linen or cotton rag.
5820. Lotion for Bed-Sores. To 1
;able-spoonful of powdered alum put 1 teacup-
?ul of whiskey and bathe the sore part several
;imes a day.
5821. To Relieve Irritation in Bed-
Sores. Apply to the sores the white of an
egg, well beaten, and mixed with spirits of
wine.
5822. To Prevent and Cure Chapped
Hands. Wash the hands with fine soap;
and before removing the soap, scrub the hands
with a table-spoonful of Indian meal, rinsing
thoroughly with soft tepid water, using a lit-
tle meal each time except the last ; wipe the
hands perfectly dry; then rinse them in a very
little water containing a tea-spoonful of pure
glycerine, rubbing the hands together until
the water has evaporated. This is an excel-
lent remedy, but the glycerine must be pure,
or it will irritate instead of healing.
5823. Treatment of the Nails. The
nails should be kept clean by the daily use of
the nail-brush and soap and water. After
wiping the hands, but while they are still' soft
from the action of the water, gently push back
the skin which is apt to grow over the nails,
which will not only keep them neatly round-
ed, but will prevent the skin cracking around
their roots (hang-nails), and becoming sore.
The points of the nails should be pared at
least once a week; biting them should be
avoided.
5824. To Remove Warts. A daily
application of either of the three following
remedies is effective in dispersing warts:
Touch the wart with a little nitrate of silver
(lunar caustic); or with nitric acid or aro-
matic vinegar. The lunar caustic produces a
black, and the nitric acid a yellow stain, which
passes off in a short time; the vinegar scarce-
ly discolors the skin. Sparks of frictional
electricity, repeated daily, by applying the
warts to the conductor of an electrical ma-
chine, have been also successfully employed
as a cure for these troublesome and unsightly
excrescences.
5825. Wart or Corn Powder. Ivy-
leaves dried and ground to fine powder. A
popular and useful remedy for warts and soft
corns. The part having been moistened with
strong vinegar, a pinch of the powder is
sprinkled on it, and then bound on with a
strip of rag. This is sometimes called cos-
metic vegetable caustic. A mixture of equal
parts of saviue and verdigris also make an effi-
cacious wart powder.
5826. To Remove Moles. Croton oil,
under the form of pomade or ointment, and
potassio-tartrate of antimony (tartar emetic),
under the form of paste or plaster, have each
recently been successfully employed for the
removal of ordinary moles and birth-marks.
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5O5
The following is the mode of using the latter
adopted by au eminent French surgeon : Take
tartar emetic iu impalpable powder, 15 grains;
soap plaster, 1 drachm ; and beat them to a
paste. Apply this paste to nearly a line in
thickness (not more), and cover the whole
with strips of gummed paper. Iu 4 or 5 days
eruption or suppuration will set in, and, in a
few days after, leave, iu place of the birth-
mark, only a very slight scar. Croton oil
ointment effects the same, but less completely
unless repeated, by producing a pustular erup-
tion, which, however, does not permanently
mark the skin. (See No. 57G2.)
5827. Ingrowing Toe Nails. This
most painful of the diseases of the nails is
caused by the improper manner of cutting the
nail (generally of the great toe), and then
wearing a short, badly-made shoe. The nail
beginning to grow too long, and rather wide
at the corners, is trimmed around the corner,
which gives temporary relief. But it then
begins to grow wider in the side where it was
cut off; and, as the shoe presses the flesh
against the corner, the nail cuts more and
more into the raw flesh, which becomes ex-
cessively tender and irritable. If this state
continue long the toe becomes more and more
painful aud ulcerated, and proud-flesh sprouts
up from the sorest points. "Walking greatly
increases the suffering, till positive rest be-
comes indispensable.
5828. Treatment of Ingrowing Toe
Nails. Begin the effort at cure by simple
application to the tender part of a small quan-
tity of perchloride of iron. It is found in
drag stores in a fluid form, though sometimes
in powder. There is immediately a moderate
sensation of pain, constriction or burning. In
a few minutes the tender surface is felt to be
dried up, tanned or mummified, and it ceases
t.) be painful. Tho patient, who before could
not put his foot to the floor, now finds that he
can walk upon it without pain. By permit-
ting the hardened, wood-like flesh to remain
for 2 or 3 weeks, it can be easily removed by
soaking the foot in warm water. A new and
healthy structure is found firm and solid,
below. If thereafter the nails be no more cut
around the corners or sides, but always curved
in across the front end, they will in future
grow only forwards ; and by wearing a shoe
of reasonably good size and shape, all further
trouble will be avoided.
5829. To Prevent the Nail Growing
into the Toe. If the nail of your toe be
hard, aud apt to grow round, and into the
corners of your toe, take a piece of broken
glass and scrape the top very thin; do this
whenever you cut your nails, and, by constant
use, it makes the corners fly up and grow
flat, so that it i.s impossible they should give
you any pain. Do not fail to try this.
5830. Remedy for Blistered Feet
from Long Walking. Kub the feet, at
g.iing to bed, witli spirits, mixed with tallow
dropped from a lighted candle into the pahn of
the hand.
5831. Method of Preventing Cold
Feet at Bed-time. Draw off your stockings
just before undressing, and rub your ankles
and feet well with your hand, as hard as you
can bear the pressure, for 5 or 10 minutes,
and you will never have to complain of cold
feet in bed. It is hardly conceivable what a
pleasurable glow this diffuses. Frequent
washing of the feet, and rubbing them thor-
oughly dry with a linen cloth or flannel, is
very useful.
5832. Chilblain. This i.i an inflamma-
tory swelling, of a purple or lead color, pro-
duced by the action of cold. Children, espe-
cially those of a scrofulous habit, and elderly
persons, are generally most liable to chil-
blains. Tho common cause is holding the
hands or feet to the fire, after exposure to
cold. The sudden change of temperature
partially destroys the vitality, and prevents
the proper flow of blood through the part.
As chilblain is only another name for a lan-
guid circulation iu the part affected, indicated
by a congested skin, or a low form of inflam-
mation, the value of most of the following
receipts will be apparent when it is noticed
that they are all calculated to act as stimulants
of the blood-vessels, and thus promote the
motion of the partially stagnant blood which
gives rise to the heat and itching that are so
distressing. (See No. 5006.)
5833. Remedy for Broken Chilblains.
Mix together 4 fluid ounces collodion, 1| fluid
ounces Venice turpentine, and 1 fluid ounce
castor oil.
5834. Zinc "Wash for Chilblains. Dis-
solve 1 ounce sulphate of zinc in 1 pint water.
Apply several times a day.
5835. Chilblain Lotion,. Dissolve 1
ounce muriate of ammonia in i pint cider
vinegar, and apply frequently, i pint alco-
hol may be added to this lotion with good
effects.
5836. Petroleum Liniment for Chil-
blains. Nothing appears of such uniform
utility for allaying the inflammatory irrita-
tion, as the ordinary petroleum or kerosene
oil.
5837. To Cure Chilblains. M. W. E.
Schaller says that the fluid concentrated
chloride of iron is an unfailing remedy for
chilblains, its application to them for a single
day effecting a cure. It may also be used
with advantage for frost-bites.
5838. Remedy for Severe Chilblains.
From 10 to GO grains nitrate of silver dis-
solved in 1 fluid ounce water has been some-
times found useful after other applications
had appeared of no benefit. Tincture of
cantharides, to stimulate almost to blistering,
has also been used in the more intractable
forms of the disease. The tincture of capsi-
cum has been presented as a specific in this
disease.
5839. Chilblain Balm. Boil together
10 fluid ounces olive oil, 2 fluid ounces Venice
turpentine, and 1 ounce yellow wax; strain,
and while still warm add, constantly stirring,
2k drachms balsam of Peru, and 9 grains
camphor.
Another formula for making this balm adds
i ounce alkauet root, but employs i drachm
less of the balsam of Peru. This is applied
by being spread on a soft cloth and laid on the
part affected.
5840. Chilblain Liniment. Mix to-
gether 1 fluid ounce rectified oil of turpentine,
15 drops sulphuric acid, and 2 ounces olive
oil. This, rubbed gently on the chilblains
twice a day, is generally very effective.
506
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5841. To Cure Chilblains. The follow-
ing remedy was published by order of the
Wirtemberg government. Mutton tallow and
lard, of each f pound avoirdupois ; melt in an
iron vessel and add hydrated oxide of iron,
2 ounces; stirring continually with an iron
spoon, until the mass is of u uniform black
color ; then let it cool, and add Venice turpen-
tine, 2 ounces ; and Armenian bole, 1 ounce ;
oil of bergamot, 1 drachm ; rub up the bole
•with a little olive oil before putting it in.
Apply several times daily by putting it upon
lint or linen. It heals the worst cases in a
few days.
5842. Russian Remedy for Chil-
blains. Slices of the rind of fully-ripe cu-
cumbers, dried with the soft parts attached.
Previous to use they are softened by soaking
them in warm water, and are then bound on
the sore parts with the inner side next them,
and left on all night. This treatment is said
to be adopted for both broken and unbroken
chilblains.
5843. Remedy for Itching Feet from
Frost-bites. Take hydrochloric acid, 1
ounce ; rain, water. 7 ounces ; wash the feet
with it 2 or 3 times daily, or wet the socks
with the preparation until relieved.
5844. To Cure Slight Frost-bites.
The remedy for this is long-continued friction
with the hands or cold flannel, avoiding the
fire or even a heated apartment.
5845. To Correct an Offensive Smell
in the Feet. Bathe them in a weak solu-
tion of permanganate of potassa ; 1 scruple of
the salt to 8 ounces of water. (See No. 1701.)
5846. Powder for Absorbing Excess-
ive Perspiration of the Feet. Mix to-
gether 7 ounces carbonate of magnesia, 2
ounces powdered calcined alum, 7 ounces
orris root, and i drachm powdered cloves.
5847. Corns. Corns are entirely owing
to continued pressure, such as wearing small
boots or shoes. At first they are the produc-
tion of the outer skin only, but by gradually
thickening they at length come to be connect-
ed with the true skin beneath, and even with
the subjacent muscles. (See Nos. 5079 and
50GO.)
5848. To Prevent Corns. Prevention
is better than cure. Wear woolen stockings,
and see that there is no local and permanent
pressure on auy part of the foot.
5849. To Cure Corns. If a cure be
requisite, soak the corn for i hour in a solu-
tion of soda, and pare as close as possible ;
then apply a plaster of the following ingredi-
ents : Take of purified ammonia and yellow
wax, of each 2 ounces ; and acetate of copper,
6 drachms. Melt the first two ingredients
together, and, after removing them from the
fire, add the acetate of copper just before they
grow cold. Spread this ointment on a piece
of soft leather or on linen, and apply it to the
corn, removing it in two weeks.
5850. To Cure Soft Corns. The soft
corn occurs between tbe toes, and is produced
in the same manner as the common corn ; but
in consequence of the moisture existing in
this situation, tho thickened scarf-skin be-
comes saturated, and remains permanently
soft. The soft corn is best relieved by cutting
away the thick skin with a pair of scissors,
avoiding to wound the flesh ; then touching it
with a drop of Friar's balsam, and
habitually a piece of cotton wool between tLo
toes, changing the cotton daily. Tincture of
arnica, applied on a piece of cotton wool, is
also said to be an excellent remedy.
5851. To Cure Soft Corns. Dip a
piece of linen rag in turpentine and wrap
round the toe on which the corn is situated,
night and morning. The relief will be almost
immediate, and in a few days the corn will
disappear.
5852. To Believe Hard Corns. Bind
them up at night with arnica, to relieve the
pain. During the day, occasionally moisten
the stocking over the corn with arnica, if tho
shoe is not large enough to allow the corn
being bound up with a piece of linen rag.
5853. Remedy for Corns. Soak tho
feet well in warm water, then with a sharp
instrument pare off as much of the corn
as can be done without pain, and bind up the
part affected, with a piece of linen or muslin
thoroughly saturated with sperm oil, or, what
is better, the oil which floats upon the surface
of the pickle of herring or mackerel. After
3 or 4 days tho dressing may be removed, and
the remaining dead cuticle removed by scrap-
ing, when the new skin will be fouud of a soft
and healthy texture and less liable to the for-
mation of a new corn than before.
5854. To Relieve Corns. Take a
lemon, cut off a small piece, then nick it so
as to let in the toe with the corn, tie this on
at night, so that it cannot move, and in tho
morning you will find that, with a blunt knife,
you may remove a considerable portion of the
corn. Make two or three applications, and
great relief will be the result.
5855. Remedy for Corns. Tho pain
occasioned by corns may be greatly alleviated
by the following preparation : Into a 1-ounce
phial put 2 drachms of muriatic acid and 6
drachms of rose-water. "With this mixture
wet the corns night and morning for 3 dcnys.
Soak the feet every evening in warm water
without soap. Put one-third of the acid into
the water, and, with a little picking, the com
will be dissolved.
5856. Liquid Solvent for Corns;
Corn Solvent. A saturated solution of salt
of tartar or pearlash. It is commonly obtained
by exposing the article, contained in a jar or
wide-mouthed bottle, in a damp place, until it
forms an oil-like liquid.
5857. To Cure Bunions. A bunion is
a swelling on the ball of the great toe, and is
the result of pressure and irritation by fric-
tion. The treatment for corns applies also to
bunions ; but, in consequence ot the greater
extension of the disease, the cure is more
tedious. "When a bunion is forming it may be
stopped by poulticing 'and carefully opening it
with a lancet.
5858. To Cure a Corn on the Sole of
the Foot. A corn on the sole of the foot is
usually difficult to cure, as the weight of tho
body causes a constant pressure on it. Tho
application of an ordinary corn-plaster, with a
hole in the centre, will relieve the pressure
from the corn, but it causes an inequality
under the foot, which is not only uncomforta-
ble, but likely to produce other corns. The
following method never fails : Out a piece of
stout cardboard (or thin binders' board) to fit
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
507
inside the sole of the boot. This should be
large enough in every way to prevent it shift-
ing under the foot in walking. Xcxt cut a
round hole in this inner sole, exactly where
the corn rests, the hole being rather larger
than the corn. This arrangement relieves the
corn from pressure and allows of its rapid
cure, at the same time affording instant relief
and freedom in walking.
5859. To Cure a Disagreeable Breath.
This most disagreeable Infliction may be alle-
viated or cured by one or other of tho follow-
ing remedies, provided that tho tselh do not
require a dentist's assistance. Chlorine wa-
ter, as supplied by a good chemist, a table-
spoonfnl to half a tumbler of water, to be
used as a wash and gargle for the mouth ; no
harm will be done if a few drops are accident-
ally swallowed in so doing. Charcoal in tea-
spoonful doses of tho powder, or as charcoal
biscuits, or the use of prepared chalk as a
tooth-powder. A frequent causo of foul
breath is a torpidity of some of the excre-
tory organs, such as the skin, kidneys, bow-
els, liver, lungs. "When these cease perform-
ing their functions one of the others will be
called upon to perform an extra office. In
this way, when the bowels or skin become
affected, the lungs, being an excretory organ,
will be called upon to throw off an additional
waste from the system. If so, tho breath
becomes tainted. Should the foul breath be
depending upon tho stomach, it must be cor-
rected by some skillful physician.
5860. Remedy for Bad Breath. Take
of dry hypochlorite of lime, o drachms ; dis-
tilled water, 2 ounces troy. Triturate the
hypochlorite of lime in a glass pestle and
mortar; when the hypochlorito has been thor-
oughly pulverized add a portion of the distill-
ed water ; allow the mixture to rest until the
liquid has become transparent ; then decant ;
add a second portion of water, triturate and
allow to rest, again decant ; this process is
repeated a third time. Tho three liquids
which have been decanted are then mixed,
and 2 troy ounces of 85 per cent, alcohol, and
4 drops oil of roses or some other essential oil
are added. Tho solution thus prepared may
be employed to remove the fetid odor which
is given off by the gums — an odor often due
to the diseased condition of tho tisanes. To
employ it, £ tea-spoonful is poured into a tum-
blerful of water, and the gums are washed
with the mixture, employing for tho purpose
a sponge-brush. The same preparation may
be employed to remove the odor of tobacco,
rinsing the mouth several times with water
to which has been added a tea-spoonful of the
liquid. Inasmuch as the odor of tho essential
oil is gradually diminished in time, said dimi-
nution taking place at the expense of the
chlorine of tho hypochlorite, it is suggested
that this inconvenience may be obviated by
preparing the solution with water and the
hypochlorito of lime, and keeping it in one
bottle, while the aromatic alcoholic solution
(prepared of 2 ounces of 85 per cent, alcohol
and 4 drops of essential oil) is preserved in
another, both being well stoppered. "When it
is desired to use the liquids, a half tea-spoon-
ful of each of the solutions is poured into a
glass of water, which is then employed as
described above.
5861. Remedy for Bad Breath. Take
5 to 10 drops hydrochloric acid in half a tum-
bler of spring water, a little lemon juice, and
loaf sugar rubbed on lemon peel to flavor it to
suit the palate. Let this mixture be taken 3
times a day for a month or six weeks, and, if
useful, then continued occasionally. It is »
pleasant refrigerant and tonic draught.
5862. Remedy for Bad Breath. Bad
or foul breath will be removed by taking a tea-
spoonful of the following mixture after each
meal : 1 ounce liquor of potassa, 1 ounce
chloride of soda, li ounces phosphate of
soda, and 3 ounces water.
5863. Bad Breath from Constipation.
"When, the breath is affected by constipation of
the bowels, the following mixture will -be
useful: Take 4 drachms Epsom salts, 8
drachms tincture of columba, 6 ounces in-
fusion of roses; well shake the phial each
time you take the draught, which should be
every other morning for a month or six
weeks, a wine-glassful each time.
5864. To Remove the Smell of
Onions from the Breath. Parsley eaten
with vinegar will remove the unpleasant
effects of eating onions.
5865. To Correct the Odor of Decay-
ed Teeth. To correct the odor of decayed
teeth, 2 drops of a concentrated solution of
permanganate of potash may be used in a
glass of water as a wash, or a few drops of a
weak solution may be introduced m the
cavity of the tooth on a small piece of cot-
ton. (See No. 1701.)
5866. To Preserve the Teeth and
Gums. The teeth should be washed night
and morning, a moderately small and soft
brush being used ; after the morning ablution
pour on a second tooth-brush, slightly
damped, a little of the following lotion : car-
bolic acid, 20 drops; spirit of wine, 2 drachms;
distilled water, 6 ounces. After using this
lotion for a short time the gums become
firmer and less tender, and impurity of the
breath (which is most commonly caused by
bad teeth) will be removed. It is a great
mistake to use hard tooth-brushes, or to brush
the teeth until the gums bleed. (See Nos.
1288, <fc.
5867. Magnetic Pain-Killer for
Acute Pain and Toothache. Thin is one
of the very best receipts for relieving
acute pain and toothache. Laudanum, 1
drachm ; gum camphor, 4 drachms ; oil of
cloves, h drachm ; oil of lavender, 1 drachm ;
add these to 1 ounce alcohol, 6 drachms sul-
phuric ether, and 5 fluid drachms chloroform.
Apply with lint; or, for toothache, rub on tho
gums, and upon the face against the tooth.
5868. Blake's Cure for the Tooth-
ache. Take alum, reduced to an impalpable
powder, 2 drachms ; spirits of nitric ether, 7
drachms. Mix, and apply them to the tooth.
This is said to be an infallible cuwj for all
kinds of toothache unless the disease is con-
nected with rheumatism.
5869. Chloral for Toothache. Dr.
Pago recommends chloral hydrate as a local
application in cases of toothache. A few
grains of the solid hydrate introduced into
the cavity of the tooth upon the point of a
quill speedily dissolves there; and in the
course of a few minutes, during which a not
508
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
unpleasant warm sensation is experienced,
the pain is either deadened, or, more often,
effectually allayed. A second or third ap-
plication may be resorted to if necessary.
(BriU Med. Journ.)
5870. To Cure Toothache. To 1 drachm
flexible collodion add 2 drachms carbolic acid.
A gelatinous mass is precipitated, a small
portion of which inserted into the cavity of
an aching tooth invariably gives immediate
relief.
5871. Chlorate of Potassa as a Cure
for Toothache. According to the experi-
ence of eminent dentists, chlorate of potassa
affords quick relief in toothache. If the hol-
low tooth is in the lower jaw, a small crystal
of this salt may be put m the cavity ; but
perhaps it is more advisable to use a solution
of 1 part of the potassa in 20 of water.
5872. Paste for Toothache. Take of
root-bark of pellitory, 1 drachm ; muriate of
morphia, 5 grains ; triturate until reduced to
fine powder, then add, finest honey, 3
drachms ; oil of cloves (or of cajeput), 20
drops; concentrated tincture of pellitory,
a sufficient quantity to form the whole into' a
smooth paste. Very effective.
5873. Cure for Toothache. Take
equal parts of burnt alum and salt. Saturate
a piece of cotton, cover with the mixture, and
put in the tooth. Or saturate a small bit of
clean cotton wool with a strong solution of
ammonia, and apply it immediately to the
affected tooth. Immediate relief will be ex-
perienced.
5874. Perry's Essence for the Tooth-
ache. A concentrated tincture of pellitory
made with about equal parts of ether and
rectified spirit largely charged with camphor.
Though a nostrum, it is an excellent prepara-
tion. (See No. 4532.)
5875. Pieste's Toothache Essence.
This is laudanum mixed •with about twice its
volume of liquor of ammonia specific gravity
.930. Applied on lint, like other toothache
drops, it often rapidly relieves the pain.
5876. Cottereau's Odontalgic
Es-
sence. A nearly saturated ethereal solu-
tion of camphor, mixed with -^ to -j1/ its vol-
ume of liquor of ammonia (specific gravity
.880 to 882). A very useful preparation.
5877. To Kill the Nerve of a Hollow
Tooth. Take i drachm white oxide of ar-
senic; 1 drachm sulphate of morphia; mix
with a little creosote, and apply to the cavity
of the tooth, previously cleansed.
5878. Tooth Cements. These are pre-
parations for filling up cavities, cracks, &c
in defective teeth, the object being either to
restore or preserve them, or to cure or pre-
vent toothache. (See Nos. 3549, &c.)
5879. Diamond Tooth Cement.
Take of anhydrous phosphoric acid in fine
powder, 12 grains; pure caustic lime, fresh
burnt, and in fine powder, 13 grains ; mix
them rapidly, by trituration, in a porcelain or
wedgwood- ware mortar, and apply the pow-
der, in the dry state, as quickly as possible,
as it soon becomes moist. The powder, after
being well pressed in the crack or cavity of
The compound that results from the combi-
nation of the ingredients almost exactly re-
sembles the natural earthy matter of the
teeth, and is, therefore, unobjectionable. Its
color closely resembles, and will soon become
that of the teeth to which it is applied, pro-
vided they possess ordinary whiteness. To
cause it at once to imitate the color of the
teeth, the mixture may be rendered slightly
grey by adding to it a mere trace of carbon.
This may be done by holding the pestle, used
to mix the powders, over the flame of a can-
dle or lamp, for an instant. A faint yellow-
ish shade may be given to it by a trace of
sulphuret of cadmium or a little yellow ochre ;
and a faint shade of red or flesh-color by a
trace of jeweler's rouge or peroxide of iron, or
a very little light-red (burnt yellow-ochre).
This stopping, from its composition and other
qualities, is, perhaps, superior to all others;
but, except in the case of hollow teeth, its
use requires some degree of skill and expert-
ness, which is, however, readily acquired.
5880.
Teeth.
Gutta-Percha Stopping for
This is pure, uncolored, native
gutta-percha. A small piece is softened in
hot water, and at once applied. It answers
well for filling hollow teeth with central
cavities, and is efficient and durable.
5881. White Gutta-Percha. The
Journal of Applied Chemistry gives the fol-
lowing method of preparing this, for dentists'
use and for other purposes. 4 ounces of pure
gutta-percha are digested with 5 pounds of
methyl-chloroform until the solution, is thin
enough to pass through filtering paper. It is
then filtered (an additional pound of chloro-
form will facilitate this), and should then be
clear and nearly colorless. Alcohol is now
added in sufficient quantity to precipitate the
gutta-percha in a voluminous white mass,
which is washed with alc»hol, pressed in a
cloth, and dried in the air. It must finally be
boiled in water in a porcelain vessel for half
an hour, and, while still hot, rolled into sticks.
The chloroform can be separated from the
alcohol by adding water, and the alcohol
recovered bv distillation. (See No. 1725.)
5882. How to Fill or Plug Teeth.
One of the most important points to attend
to in filling or stopping teeth, is that each
tooth must be thoroughly cleaned out, and
wiped perfectly dry, before inserting or ap-
plying the cement, of whatever kind it be.
Without careful attention to this matter, the
cement will not adhere, or will soon become
loose, and drop out or off, and the operation
prove a failure. "When a defective tooth is
conveniently situated it may often be stopped
by the party himself, by the exercise of a
little skill and care, particularly if it be a hol-
low one with a clearly defined central cavity.
When the reverse is the case, it is generally
necessary that the operator should be a sec-
ond party. A hollow tooth with a central
and nearly circular hole in it may, in general,
be effectively filled with a plug of dry soft
wood, or of bone or ivory. If the hole be
not round, it may be made BO. Such stop-
ping will often last for years.
the tooth, is smoothed off with the finger 5883. To Remove Tattoo Marks from
moistened with a drop of water. It soon ac- the Skin. Inquiry is frequently made for
quires great hardness, is white, very durable, method? for the successful removal of tattoo
aiid does not become discolored by age. i marks in the skin. "While these are generally
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
509
asserted to be indelible, if produced by the
insertion of some carbonaceous matter, a cor-
respondent of the Chemical News says that
the marks disappeared by being first well
rubbed with a salve of pure acetic acid and
lard, then with a solution of potash, and
finally with hydrochloric acid.
5884. To' Remove Freckles. If the
exact cause of freckles were known, a remedy
for them might be found. A chemist in Mo-
ravia, observing the bleaching effect of mer-
curial preparations, inferred that the growth
of a local parasitical fungus was the cause of
the discoloration of the skin, which extended
and ripened its spores in the warmer season.
Knowing that sulpho-carbolate of zinc is a
deadly enemy to all parasitic vegetation (it-
self not beiug otherwise injurious), he applied
this salt for" the purpose of removing the
freckles. The compound consists of 2 parts
of sulpho-carbolate of zinc, 25 parts of dis-
tilled glycerine, 25 parts of rose-water, and 5
parts of scented alcohol, and is to be applied
twice daily for from half an hour to an hour,
then washed off with cold water. Protection
against the sun by veiling and other means is
recommended, and in addition, for persons of
pale complexion, some mild preparation of
iron.
5885. To Remove Liver-spots. These
are well-defined, brownish blotches on the
skin, and generally appear on the forehead.
Notwithstanding their name, they do not
always proceed from the liver alone, but usu-
ally .from soino derangement or unhealthy
state of the internal organs. In the first
place, the general health must bo thoroughly
cared for, in order to have a fair prospect of
success in any external local application. A
pomade composed of 20 grains of sulphate of
zinc and 1 ounce elder-flower ointment should
be applied over-night to the spot, entirely
within its limits, and not on the surrounding
skin. In the morning wash it off with white
castile soap and water, and bathe it repeated-
ly during the day with a lotion composed of
30 grains citric acid and -J- pint infusion of
roses. The spots should yield to this treat-
ment in about 2 weeks, and their recurrence
may be prevented by a regular use of borax
and glvcerine lotion. (Sec No. 4839.)
5886. To Remove Birth-marks. Mix
together, with frequent agitation, 1 part pure
carbonate of potash, 4 parts rose-water, 2
parts Hoffmann's Life Balsam (sec No. 5112),
and 2 parts distilled water. Apply to the
mark twice a day, shaking the bottle well
before using. (Hagcr.) (See No. 582G.)
5887. To Disguise the Taste of Med-
icines. Instead of attempting to flavor the
medicine, or to remove the disagreeable taste
from the mouth after taking the medicine, it
is far more efficacious to prepare the mouth
beforehand with some strong aromatic flavor,
such as orange or lemon peel, or cachou aro-
matise. (See No. 1336.) In preparing the
mouth for bitters, liquorice is the only sweet
that should be used, all others creating a pe-
culiarly disagreeable compound taste.
5888. To Disguise the Taste of Cas-
tor Oil. Castor or cod-liver oil may be taken
with porter by pouring a little in the bottom
of the glass, and then a little on top of the
oil, but the best method of covering the nau-
seous flavor is to put a table-spoonful of
strained orange-juice in a wine-glass, pour
the castor oil into the centre of the juice, and
then squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice upob
the top of the oil, and rub some of the juice
on the edge of the glass.
5889. French Method of Administer-
ing' Castor Oil to Children. Pour the oil
into a pan over a moderate fire ; break an egg
into it, and stir up ; when it is done, add a
little salt or sugar, or some currant jelly.
The sick child will eat it agreeably, and never
discover the disguise.
5890. To Destroy the Taste of Cas-
tor Oil. A good way is to beat the castor
oil with the white of an egg until both are
thoroughly mixed. ,
5891. To Disguise the Taste of Epsom
Salts. Peppermint water almost prevents
the nauseous taste of Epsom salts ; a strong
solution of extract of liquorice covers the
disagreeable taste of aloes; milk, that of
Peruvian bark ; and cloves, that of senna.
5892. Agreeable Mode of Taking
Senna. Dr. Liuthner says that senna leaves
(1 or 2 drachms to 1 or 2 cups of water)
should be allowed to infuse all night in cold
water. "With the strained infusion coffee is
prepared next morning, as if with water ; and
an aperient which does not taste of senna,
and does not cause griping, is thus produced.
5893. Restoration of Persons Appa-
rently Dead from Drowning. The follow-
ing rules for the restoration ot persons appa-
rently dead from drowning, are given by Pro-
fessor Benjamin Howard, of this city, and
sanctioned by the Metropolitan Board cf
Health of the City of New York.
I. Unless in danger of freezing, never move
the patient from the spot where first rescued,
nor allow bystanders to screen off the fresh
air, but instantly wipe clean the mouth and
nostrils, rip and remove all clothing to a little
below the waist, rapidly rub and dry the
exposed part, and give two quick, smarting
slaps on the stomach with your open hand.
If this docs not succeed immediately, proceed
according to the following rules to perform
artificial breathing :
II. Turn the patient on his face, a largo
bundle of tightly rolled clothing being placed
beneath his stomach, and press heavily over it
upon the spine for half a minute.
III. Turn the patient quickly again on his
back ; the roll of clothing being so placed
beneath it as to make the short ribs bulge
prominently forward, and raise them a little
higher than the level of the mouth. Let
some bystander hold the tip of the tongue out
cf one corner of the mouth with a dry hand-
kerchief, and hold both hands of the patient
together, the arms being stretched forcibly
back above the head.
IT. Kneel astride the patient's hips, and
with your hands resting on his stomach,
spread out your fingers so that you can grasp
the waist about the short ribs. Now throw
all your weight steadily forward upon your
hands, while you at the same time squeeze
the ribs deeply, as if you wished to force
everything in the chest upwards out of the
mouth. Continue this while you can slowly
count — one — two — three ; then suddenly let
go, with a final push, which springs you back
510
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
to your first kneeling position. Remain erect
upon your knees while you can count — one —
two ; then throw your weight forward again
is before, repeating the entire motions — at
first about 4 or 5 times a minute, increasing
the rate gradually to about 15 times a minute,
and continuing with the same regularity of
time and motion as is observed in the natural
breathing which you are imitating.
V. Continue this treatment, though appa-
rently unsuccessful, for 2 hours, until the pa-
tient begins to breathe ; and for a while after
this, help biin by well-timed pressure to
deepen his fi rst gasps into full, deep breaths ;
while the friction of the limbs, which should,
if possible, have been kept up during the
entire process, is now further increased.
VI. As soon as the breathing has become
perfectly natural, strip the patient rapidly and
completely. Wrap him m blankets only.
Put him in bed in a room comfortably warm,
but with a free circulation of fresh air, and,
except for the administration of internal treat-
ment, let him have perfect rest. Give him a
little hot bnandy and water, or other stimu-
lant at hand, every 10 or 15 minutes for the
first hour, and as often thereafter as may
seem expedient.
5394. Abstinence as a Cure for Dis-
ease. Disease may often be cured by absti-
nence from all food, especially if the disorders
have been produced by luxurious living and
repletion. The latter overtaxes nature, and
it rebels against such treatment. Indigestion,
giddiness, headache, mental depression, &c.,
are often the effects of greediness in meat and
drink. Omitting one, two, or three meals,
allows the system to rest, to regain strength,
and allows the clogged organs to dispose of
their burdens. The practice of drug-taking
to cleanse the stomach, though it may give
the needed relief, always weakens the system,
while abstinence often secures the same result,
and yet does no injury.
5895. Antidotes for Poison. It need
hardly be said that medical assistance must
be sent for at once ; but, meanwhile, as it is
of the greatest importance to administer some
aid as soon as possible, the subjoined direc-
tions may be followed. "When any poisonous
or other hurtful thing has been swallowed,
take instantly half a glass of water — cold, not
hot — put into it a heaping tea-spoonful of salt,
and another of ground mustard; stir it rapidly
3 or 4 times ; if there is no salt at hand, use
mustard alone ; catch the patient by the nose
and toss it down. The reason for using cold
water is that, in the hurry, the water may be
hotter than thought for, and may scald the
throat, causing eventual, if not instant death.
The salt and mustard make the speediest
emetic known, and are almost everywhere to
be had in a moment. It brings up the con-
tents of the stomach more or less complete-
ly. And for fear that some remnant may be
loft, administer a cupful of strong coffee, and
then the white of 2 or 3 raw eggs, either first,
aa may be the quickest had, because these are
two domestic articles which are found in
every house, and nullify the effects of a
greater number of virulent poisons than per-
haps any other articles known. (HaH.)
5896. Treatment in Cases of Poison-
ing. Dr. Hall Bays : "Whatever is done must
be done quickly. The instant a person is
known to have swallowed poison by design or
accident, give water to drink, cold or warm,
as fast as possible, a gallon or more at a time,
and, as fast as vomited, drink more ; tepid wa-
ter is best, as it opens the pores of the skin
and promotes vomiting, and thus gives the
speediest cure to the poisonous article. If
pains begin to be felt in the bowels, it shows
that part at least of the poison has passed
downwards; then large and repeated injec-
tions of tepid water should bo given, the
object in both cases being to dilute the poison
as quickly and as largely as possible. Do not
wait for warm water — take that which is
nearest at hand, cold or warm, for every
second <;f time saved is of immense import-
ance; at the same time send instantly fora
physician, and as soon as he conies turn the
case into his hands, telling him what you have
done. This simple fact cannot be too widely
published ; it is not meant to say that drink-
ing a gallon or two of simple water will cure
every case of poisoning; but it will cure many,
and benefits all by its rapidly diluting quality.
(Journal of Health.} A short summary of
the antidotes resorted to in reference to partic-
ular poisons is given below. They should, of
course, be administered as speedily as possible.
5897. Antidotes for Acid Poisons.
Hydrochloric acid; nitric acid; oxalic acid
(often mistaken for Epsom salts) ; acetic acid.
For this form of poison, give quickly large
draughts of chalk, whiting, magnesia, or soap
and water, about as thick as cream ; followed
by albuminous diluents, such as milk, and
white of egg mixed with water. Or, if these
cannot be procured at once, warm water;
and promote voir.itiug by the emetic recom-
mended in Is"o. C325.
5898. Antidotes for Arsenic. The
first endeavor, incases of poisoning by arsenic,
should bo to remove, if possible, the poison
from the stomach; for this purpose strong
emetics or the stomach-pump should be had
recourse to, after which the hydrated peroxide
of iron in a dose thirty times greater than that
of the poison may be administered. (See No.
4155.)
5899. Antidotes for Baryta in all its
Forms. Sulphate of magnesia (Epsom
salts), sulphate of soda (Glauber's salts), or
any alkaline cr earthy sulphate.
5900. Antidotes for Antimony, or
Tartar Emetic. Administer large doses of
warm water to induce vomiting (see No. C896) ;
give the powder of Peruvian bark, and, as
soon as it can be prepared, the infusion of
bark, which decomposes the tartar emetic.
5901. Antidotes for Alkalies, Soda,
Potash, Ammonia, &c. Vinegar and
lemon-juice are the best antidotes for potash,
and all other alkaline poisons. A glassful of
water, mixed with a table-spoonful of vinegar
or lemon-juice, should be given frequently;
and in defect of these, simple water, in such
quantities as to cause vomiting. Emetics,
and other irritating means, are to be avoided.
Olive oil may also be administered.
5902. Antidotes for Corrosive Sub-
limate, or Calomel. The white of eggs
beaten up with cold water is the best antidote
for these. If eggs are not at once to be bad,
milk may be used with great success. Warm
MEDICAL EECEITTS.
511
water should be given afterwards, to induce
vomiting, also free purging in most instances.
5903. Antidote for Corrosive Subli-
mate. In case of poisoning by corrosive
sublimate, if a dose of the hydrated protosul-
phuret of iron (see No. 4149) bo administered
it instantly renders tho poison innocuous.
This antidote is almost useless unless taken
•within 15 or 20 minutes after swallowing the
poison.
5904. Antidotes for Verdigris and
Sulphate of Copper. The treatment 13 j
the same as for corrosive sublimate. (Sec
No. 5902.)
5905. Antidotes for Nitrate of Silver.
Same as for corrosive sublimate (nee No. \
5902), -with copious draughts of -warm -water
and salt. (Sec No. 5895.)
5906. Antidote for Phosphorus.
Same as for corrosive sublimate. , (See No.
5902. ) Phosphorus is tho principal ingredient
used in tho manufacture of matches.
5907. Antidote for Sulphate of Zinc.
Solution of carbonate of soda; also cream,
butter, and chalk, are good antidotes for sul-
phate of zinc (white vitriol). Give "water
after tho antidotes.
5908. Antidotes for Lead. Litharge,
red lead, white lead, sugar of lead, and
Goulard's extract. In the first stage, or the
irritant form of injury, administer sulphate of
magnesia, potash, or soda. The phosphate of
soda is a good antidote. "When palsy super-
venes, the regimen must bo regulated care-
fully.
5909. Antidotes for Opium and its
Preparations. Emetics of tho sulphate of
zinc, 5 drachm or 2 scruples ; the stomach
pump, or injections of tartar emetic, must be
employed to bring away the poison. Tho
patient should be constantly roused by drag-
ging about the floor, throwing cold \vater in
the face, and giving ammonia, assafoetida, and
strong coffee.
5910. New Antidote for Opium. In
a case of accidental poisoning by a:i overdose
of morphia, tho administration of 13 drops of
Norwood's tincture of green hellebore was
followed by a complete cure. Tho narcotic
had obtained such mastery over tho unfortu-
nate patient that tho pupils of the eyes had
contracted, and the jaws had to bo forced
open to give the medicine, which was mixed
with 2 ounces of brandy. All appearance
of poisonous effects had vanished in an hour.
5911. Antidotes for Prussic Acid.
Small quantities of ammonia water diluted
with 10 or 12 parts of water; also tho fumes
inhaled. Tho joint administration of carbon-
ate of potash and sulphate of iron. This has
been lately very strongly recommended.
Cold affusion should bo adopted in all cases,
and is almost of itself a certain cure, if em-
ployed before the convulsive stago is over:
and it is often successful even during the
stage of insensibility and paralysis. Artificial
respiration should also bo attempted. Un-
fortunately, the poisonous action of prussic
acid is so rapid that life is usually extinct
before antidotes can be applied. (See No. 5913.)
5912. Antidotes for Strychnia and
Nux-vomica. Evacuate the stomach with
the stomach pump or emetics. (See No.
581)0.) No antidote is known.
5913. Antidotes for Carbonic Acid
Gas. When asphyxia from the inhalation of
carbonic acid gas occurs, the patient should
bo immediately removed into the open air,
and placed upon his back with the head
slightly raised. Cold water should be dashed
over the body, hot water applied to the feet,
and ammonia to tho nostrils. Brandy and wa-
ter, and other stimulants, may bo adminis-
tered. Friction on the surface of the body is
also recommended. If the patient has ceased
to breathe, artificial respiration should be at-
tempted. This may be done by pressing
down the ribs, forcing up the dinphragm,
and then suddenly withdrawing the pres-
sure. (See No. 5893, Rule V.)
5914. Antidotes for Poisonous Mush-
rooms. The best antidote to poisonous
mushrooms is tannin, or an infusion or de-
coction of galls. A strong emetic should also
be given to remove them from the stomach.
5915. Antidote for Carbolic Acid.
Dr. Grace Calvert state;? that the best anti-
dote after the stomach pump is large doses of
olivp or almond oil, with a little castor oil.
Oil is a solvent, and consequently a diluent
of carbolic acid, and may be used to stop tho
corrosive effect of the acid when the action
on the skin is too violent. Dr. Huseinann, of
Gottingen, suggests, for counteracting its
effects on the stomach, a new preparation
which he calls calcaria saccharata (saccha-
rate of lime), prepared by dissolving 16
parts refined sugar in 40 parts water, and
adding 5 parts slacked lime. Digest the mix-
ture for 3 days, stir occasionally, filter, and
evaporate to dryness.
5916. Antidote for Poisoning by
Chlorine. Chlorine gas is an irritative
poison, and tho best antidotes are said to bo
ammoniacal gas, or tho vapor of warm water,
of wine, or of ether. The effects of chlorine
have been known to pass off in tho open air ;
leaving, in a certain instance, a violent cough,
which disappeared in a few hours.
5917. Hodgen's Simple Stomach
Pump. Attach 4 feet of india-rubber tubing
to a stomach tube, fill both with water by
simply dipping it in tho liquid, end first, then
compressing the clastic tube between tho
thumb and finger to keep the fluid from run-
ning out, introduce the stomach tube down
tho throat of the patient, lower the outer end
of tho elastic tube, and the contents of tho
stomach pour out as readily as if from an open
vessel, tho rubber tube acting as a syphon.
"WTien tho fluid ceases to flow, dip tho outer
end of tho tube beneath the surface of the
water, elevate the vessel containing it above
tho level of the patient's mouth, and the stom-
ach is soon filled ; lower again the outer end
of tho tube and the stomach is emptied. This
can, of course, be repeated as often as is ne-
cessary. The advantages claimed for this
simple contrivance are, that it is of speedy
and easy application, has no valves to become
obstructed or deranged, and is far less expen-
sive than a stomach pump.
5918. Cure for Ulcers Caused by
Cyanide of Potassium. This substance is
used in electroplating and other arts, and
sometimes occasions ulcers on the hands. Pro-
tosulphate of iron in fine powder, ground in
raw linseed oil, is recommended by a prac-
512
MEDICAL EECEIPTS.
tical man, as the most effectual application
for relieving the pain and healing the sores.
5919. Treatment for Hydrophobia.
First dose, 1 ounce elecampane root, boiled in
1 pint milk until reduced to i pint. Second
dose (to be taken 2 days after the first), Ik
ounces elecampane root in 1 pint of milk,
boiled as the first. Third dose, the same as
the second (to be taken 2 days after) ; in all,
3 doses. Mr. J. "W. "Woolston, a respectable
eitizen of Philadelphia, vouches for the above
receipt. He says : "I have known of its being
tried in one case, and no inconvenience has
been felt. A friend of mine, of whom I
obtained the receipt, knew of 20 instances
where it was successfully given." Wo give
the above for what it is worth, but we have
no great faith in it.
5920. Cure for Hydrophobia. Cut
out completely the wounded part before the
poison can be absorbed. It is recommended,
m order .to do this quickly and thoroughly,
that a stick bo whittled to a shape resembling
a dog's tooth, and inserted in the wound. This
supports the part, and renders the cutting
more easy and certain. This should be fol-
lowed by cauterization, either by the use
of a hot iron, or some strong caustic substance.
6921. To Remove the Virus in Hy-
drophobia. Suck the bitten part well, spit-
ting out the fluid obtained from the wound ;
then apply some strong nitric acid, or lunar
caustic, and bind the part up as tightly as the
patient can bear it. Only one cauterization is
needed.
5922. Youatt's Cure for Hydrophobia.
Touatt (the great horse doctor) says he has
been bitten eight or ten times and always
cured himself by rubbing nitrate of silver in
the wound. It should be applied as soon
after the accident as may be. In 6 weeks the
virus is disseminated through the system and
then hope is gone.
5923. Preventive of Hydrophobia.
The production of profuse perspiration is
sometimes of great use in preventing the bad
effects of a bite, so it should be tried.
5 924. Bibron's Antidote to the Poison
of the Rattlesnake. Iodide of potassium, 4
grains; corrosive sublimate, 2 grains; bromine,
5 drachms. 10 drops of this mixture, diluted
with 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls of brandy, wine,
or whiskey, constitute a dose, to be repeated
if necessary. It must be kept in glass-stop-
pered phials, well secured, as the air will af-
fect it. The saltst may, in case of emergency,
be first dissolved in a little water, before add-
ing the bromine, as this dissolves them very
slowly. This is a valuable remedy. Dr.
Hammond, in speaking of the remedy, says
that during a recent expedition to the Kocky
Mountains, he had frequent opportunities to
test its efficiency. The results were satisfac-
tory, and he thinks that, when taken in time, it
may be entirely depended upon in the poison-
ous wounds of the rattlesnake.
5925. To Extract the Poison from a
Rattlesnake Bite. The most direct and
efficient means of counteracting the absorp-
tion of the poison i.j suction, and this is most
effectually done by exhausting a cupping-
glass over the wo'und. The cupping-glass
must be applied as soon after the injury as
possible, and kept exhausted until all danger
has passed. It has been proved that the bites
of vipers, both on man and animals, were ren-
dered entirely harmless by the application of
these glasses.
5926. Cure for Snake Bites. As many
as 8000 persons die annually in British India
and Burmah, from the effects of snake bites.
The Inspector of Police to the Bengal Govern-
ment reports that of 939 cases in which am-
monia was freely administered,. 702 victims
have recovered, and in the cured instances,
the remedy was not administered till about 34
hours after the attack, on the average. In the
fatal cases, the corresponding duration of time
was 4J hours.
5927. To Cure the Stings of Hornets,
Wasps, Bees, and Spiders. Swelling may
instantly be arrested by an application of
equal parts common salt and bicarbonate of
soda, dissolved in warm water, and well rub-
bed in on the place bitten or stung. (See also
No. 5929.)
5928. Cure for Stings of Wasps, &c.
Rub the part affected with a mixture of 1 part
spirits of hartshorn and 2 parts olive oil.
5929. To Cure the Bites of Insects.
Dissolve 1 ounce borax in 1 pint water that
has been boiled and allowed to cool. Instead
of plain water, distilled rose-water, elder, or
orange-flower water is more pleasant. The
bites are to be dabbed with the solution as
long as there is any irritation. For bees' or
wasps' stings the borax solution may be made
of twice the above strength.
5930. To Cure Poisoning by Poison
Ivy, Oak, or Sumach. Bathe the poi-
soned part thoroughly with hot water, without
soap. "WTaen dry, paint the place liberally, 2
to 4 times a day, with a feather dipped in
strong tincture of lobelia. Avoid bringing
the tincture in contact with any fresh wound
or excoriation.
5931. Remedy for Poison Ivy, &c.
In some cases, where lobelia (see hist receipt)
does not succeed quickly, an application, in a
similar manner, of fluid extract of gelseminum
sempervirens (yellow jessamine) will rarely
fail to cure. Both of these are excellent
remedies, generally acting like magic.
5932. Remarks on Poison Ivy, &c.
Poison ivy, etc., act very differently upon
different people. Some people are entirely
proof against its effects, and can, with im-
punity, rub it on without any ill effect.
Others are poisoned by simple contact with
clothing that has touched it. This difference
of susceptibility to the poison seems to apply
equally to the remedies, as what will cure one
person 'has little or no effect on another.
5933. Applications for Poison Ivy.
Various applications have been used for tne
same purpose ; bathing the parts with a decoc-
tion of hemlock boughs, or of oak leaves; or
with a table-spoonful of copperas (sulphate of
iron) in a small tea-cupful of boiling water ;
or painting over with fresh lime-water; or
rubbing wet salt on the poisoned part ; or
bathing the parts affected freely with spirit of
nitre. If the blisters bo broken, so as to
allow the nitre to penetrate, more than a sin-
gle application is rarely necessary. It will
scarcely be possible to fail in finding, in one
or other of the remedies here given, a means
of cure suited to the party affected.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
Tables of Weights, Mea-
sures, &C. The following tables
have been compiled for the purpose of aiding
the reader to determine with facility, the
relative values of different weights and mea-
sures ; and to furnish in a convenient group a
mass of valuable information that would
otherwise have to be sought for in a number
of volumes not easy of access. Most of the
tables have been made expressly for this
work, and all of them have been carefully
recalculated, revised, and corrected by a com-
petent mathematician.
5935. Avoirdupois "Weight is em-
ployed for weighing all goods, except those
for which Troy or Apothecaries weight are
used. The ton is subdivided into hundred-
weights, quarters, pounds, ounces, and
drachms. (See No. 6031.') Some goods are
sold by the hundred-weight of 100 pounds,
instead of the hundred-weight (cwt.) of 112
pounds; a ton composed of 20 hundreds
would then contain only 2000 pounds. The
pound avoirdupois consists of 7000 Troy
grains. The drachm avoirdupois is therefore
27.34375 Troy grains. The standard avoirdu-
pois pound of the United States is the weight
of 27.7015 cubic inches of distilled water, at
39.83° Fahr., the barometer being at 30 inches.
Ton. Cwt. Qrs. Lbs. Oz. Dr.
1 = 20 = 80 = 2,240 = 35,840 = 573,440
1=4= 112 = 1,792 = 28,672
1 = 28 = 448 = 7,168
1 = 16 = 256
1 = 16
Equivalents of Avoirdupois
in Troy Weight.
Lbs. Oz.
5936.
Avoirdupois.
ITon
1 Cwt.
IQr.
1 Lb.
1 Oz.
IDr.
5937.
Dwt. Grains.
2922
146
34
1
= I
13
6
6
11
18
1
8
16
16 '
16
5*
3H
Value of Avoirdupois Weight
in Apothecaries Measure.
/? /3 TTJ?
1 po.und = 15 2 53.3622
1 ounce = 7 40.8351
5938. Value of Avoirdupois in Apo-
thecaries Weight.
Avoirdupois. Apothecaries.
ft § 3 3
1 pound =1 2 4 2
1 ounce = 70
1 drachm = 1
In the new British Pharmacopoeia the weights
are expressed in pounds, ounces, and grains
avoirdupois. (See No. 6031.)
Gr.
0
17*
5939. Decimal Equivalents of Ibs., qrs., and cwt.
qrs. Ibs. cwt.
qrs. Ibs. cwt.
qrs. Ibs. cwt.
qrs. Ibs. cwt.
0 0£=.0044
1 0=.25
2 0=.5
3 0=.75
0 1 .0089
1 1 .2589
2 1 .5089
3 1 .7589
0 2 .0178
1 2 .2678
2 2 .5178
3 2 .7678
0 3 .0268
1 3 .2768
2 3 .5268
3 3 .7768
0 4 .0357
1 4 .2857
2 4 .5357
3 4 .7857
0 5 .0446
1 5 .2946
2 5 .5446
3 5 .7946
0 6 .0535
1 6 .3035
2 6 .5535
3 6 .8035
0 7 .0625
1 7 .3125
2 7 .5625
3 7 .8125
0 8 .0714
1 8 .3214
2 8 .5714
3 8 .8214
0 9 .0803
1 9 .3303
2 9 .5803
3 9 .8303
0 10 .0892
1 10 .3392
2 10 .5892
3 10 .8392
0 11 .0982
1 11 .3482
2 11 .5982
3 11 .8482
0 12 .1071
1 12 .3571
2 12 .6077
3 12 .8571
0 13 .1160
1 13 .3660
2 13 .6160
3 13 .8660
0 14 .125
1 14 .375
2 14 .625
3 14 .875
0 15 .1339
1 15 .3839
2 15 .6339
3 15 .8839
0 16 .1429
1 16 .3929
2 16 .6429
3 16 .8929
0 17 .1518
1 17 .4018
2 17 .6518
3 17 .9018
0 18 .1607
1 18 .4107
2 18 .6607
3 18 .9107
0 19 .1696
1 19 .4196
2 19 .6696
3 19 .9-196
0 20 .1786
1 20 .4286
2 20 .6786
3 20 .9286
0 21 .1875
1 21 .4375
2 21 .6875
3 21 .9375
0 22 .1964
1 22 .4464
2 22 .6964
3 22 .9464
0 23 .2054
1 23 .4554
2 23 .7054
3 23 .9554
0 24 .2143
1 24 .4643
2 24 .7143
3 24 .9643
0 25 .2232
1 25 .4732
2 25 .7232
3 25 .9732
0 26 .2321
1 26 .4821
2 26 .7321
3 26 .9821
0 27 .2411
1 27 .4911
2 27 .7411
3 27 .9911
5940. Decimal Equivalents of Pounds and Ounces.
OZ.
Ib.
OZ.
Ib.
OZ.
Ib.
OZ.
Ib.
OZ.
Ib.
1
.015625
3
.1875
6*
.40625
10
.625
13i
.84375
*
.03125
81
.21875
7
.4375
10i
.65625
14
.875
1
.046875
4
.25
7h
.46875
11
.6875
14*
.90625
1
.0625
4*
.28125
8
.5
111
.71875
15
.9375
H
.09375
5
.3125
8£
.53125
12
.75
15i
.96875
2
.125
5*
.34375
9 -
.5625
12i
.78125
16
1.
24
.15625
6
.375
9k
.59375
13
.8125
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
5941. Avoirdupois Weight Expressed
in Grains.
Avoirdupois. Grams.
1 Ton = 1,015,938.84 = 1.016 Milliers
1 Cwt. = 50,796.94 = 5.080 Myriagrams
1 Quarter = 12,699.23 = 1.270 Myriagrams
1 Pound = 453.54 = 4.535 Hectograms
1 Ounce = 28.34 =2.834 Dekagrams
1 Drachm = 1.77
5942. Troy Weight is used by jewelers
for weighing gold, silver, platina, and all
precious stones except the diamond; and is
the weight adopted by the mint. The pound
Troy contains 5.760 grains.
Found. Ounces. Pennyweights. Grains.
1 = 12 = 240 = 5760
1 = 20 = 480
1 = 24
1
5943. Diamond Weight. Diamonds
are weighed by a separate method ; the carat,
equivalent to 3.2 grains Troy, is thus subdi-
vided.
Carat. Grains. Parts. Troy Grains.
1 = 4 = 16 = 3.2
1 = 4 = .8
1 = .2
5944. Troy Weight Compared with
Avoirdupois.
Troy. Avoirdupois.
Oz. Dr.
1 Pound = 13 2.65
1 Ounce = 1 1.55
1 Dwt. = 0.877
5945. Equivalents of Troy in Apothe-
caries Weight.
Troy. Apothecaries.
ft 1 3 3 <*•
1 Pound = 1 0 0 0 0
1 Ounce = 1000
1 Dwt. = 14
1 Grain = 1
5946. Troy Weight Expressed in
Grams.
Troy. Grams.
1 Pound = 373.202, or 3.732 Hectograms
1 Ounce = 31.100, or 3.110 Dekagrams
1 Dwt. = 1.555
1 Grain = .0648, or 6.48 Centigrams.
5947. Approximate Values of Troy
in Metrical Weight.
Troy
•weight. Weight. Measure.
32 oz. = 1 kilogramme, = 1 litre.
16 oz. = }£lrilog. = 600 grams, = .500
4 oz. = 125 grams, = .125
1 oz. = 32 grams, = .32
1 dr'm. = 4 grams, = .4
15 grains = Igram, = .1 cubic
centimetre.
\yx gr'ns = 1 decigram.
5948. Assayer's Gold Weights. The
richness or purity of gold is expressed in
carats. Pure gold is spoken of as containing
24 carats, of 12 grains each ; and any sample
containing 12, 18, 22, or any other number ol
parts of pure gold, in 24 parts, is said to be o:
so many carats fine. In the process of assay-
ing gold, the real quantity taken is very
small, generally 6 or 12 grains; and this is
termed the " assay pound." It is nominally
subdivided into 24 carats, and each carat into
4 assay grains, and each grain into quarters
"When the assay pound is only 6 grains, the
quarter of the assay grain will only weigh the
^ of a grain; hence the most accurate system
of weighing must be adopted.
5949. Assayer's Silver Weights. The
richness or purity of silver is either expressed
n pennyweights or roW In the first
;ase, it is supposed that the mass of silver to
>e examined consists of 12 equal parts, called
)ennyweight,s ; so that if an ingot weighs an
>unce, each of the parts will be iV of an
ounce. Hence, if the mass of silver be pure,
t is called silver of 12 pennyweights; if it
ontain -jV of its weight of alloy, it is called
silver of 11 pennyweights; if -&• of its
weight be alloy, it is called silver of 10 penny-
weights; and so on in proportion for other
qualities. It must be observed here, that
;he assayers give the name pennyweight to a
weight equal to 24 real grains, which must
not be confounded with their ideal weights.
The assayer's grains are called fine grains.
An ingot of fine silver, or silver of 12 penny-
weights, contains, then, 288 fine grains; if
,his ingot contain -y^s of alloy, it is said
o be silver of 11 pennyweights and 23 grains;
f it contain ^ir °f &Uoy, it is said to be
[1 pennyweights, 20 grains, <fec. The purity
of silver is now more frequently expressed in
, which admits of greater accuracy.
5950. Table for Converting Troy into
Avoirdupois Weight.
Troy Avoirdupois
Troy Avoirdupois
Ounce*. OnnceH. Grains.
Ounces. Ounces. Grains.
1 = 1 42i
7 = 7 297i
2 = 2 85
8 = 8 340
3 = 3 127 i
9 = 9 382i
4 = 4 170
10 = 10 425
5 = 5 212i
11 = 12 30
6 = 6 255
12 = 13 72*
175 Troy ounces are eq
Troy. Avoirdupois.
ual to 192 avoirdupois.
Troy. Avoirdupois.
ft, ft, Oz. Gr.
ft, ft, Oz. Gr.
1 = 0 13 72h
18 = 14 12 430
2 = 1 10 145
19 = 15 10 65
3 = 27 217i
20 = 16 7 137 i
4 = 3 4 290
30 = 24 10 425
5 = 41 362i
40 = 32 14 275
6 = 4 14 435
50 = 41 2 125
7 = 5 12 70
60 = 49 5 4124
8 = 69 1424
70 = 57 9 262J
9 = 7 6 215
80 = 65 13 112i
10 = 8 3 287i
90 = 74 0 400
11 = 9 0 360
100 = 82 4 250
12 = 9 13 432i
175 = 144 0 0
13 = 10 11 67^
200 = 164 9 62i
14 =11 8 140
300 = 246 13 312i
15 = 12 5 212i
400 = 329 2 125
16 =13 2 285
500 = 411 6 375
17 = 13 15 357 i
1000 = 822 13 3124
5951. Apothecaries Weight is a sub-
division of the Troy pound into ounces,
drachms, scruples, and grains. It is used in
compounding medicines, and is the officinal
standard of the U. S. Pharmacopeia,
ft, § 3 3 Grs.
1 = 12 = 96 = 288 = 5760
1 = 8 = 24 = 480
1 = 3 = 60
1 = 20
1
5952. Apothecaries Weight Compared
with Avoirdupois Weight.
Apothecaries.
1 Pound
1 Ounce
1 Drachm
1 Scruple
Avoirdupois.
Oz.
13
1
Dr.
2.65
1.55
2.19
0.73
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
515
5953. Apothecaries Weight Compared
with Troy Weight.
Apothecaries. Troy.
Lb. Oz. Dwt. Gr.
1 Pound = 1000
1 Ounce = 100
1 Drachm = 2 12
1 Scruple = 20
5954. Value of Apothecaries Weight
in Apothecaries Measure.
Weight fl fZ m
1 Pound = 12 5 7.2238
1 Ounce =10 25.6020
1 Drachm =01 3.2002
1 Scruple =00 21.0667
1 Grain =00 1.0533
5955. Apothecaries Weight Expressed
in Grams.
1 Pound = 3.732 Hectograms
1 Ounce = 3.110 Dekagrams
1 Drachm = 3.887 Grams
1 Scruple = 1.296 "
1 Grain = 6.4 Centigrams.
5956. Apothecaries, or Wine Mea-
sure, is the gallon of liquid measure divided
into pints, fluid ounces, fluid drachms, and
minims. The minim being equivalent to one
drop of -water. The symbols or abbreviations
used in this table •will be found explained in
No. 5964. In all the tables of comparison be-
tween apothecaries measure and avoirdupois or
other weights, the basis assumed is the weight
of a cubic inch of water at a temperature of
39.83° Fahr., the barometer being at 30
inches, and is equivalent to 252.693 Troy
grains. A grain measure is the capacity or
bulk of a grain of water weighed at its maxi-
mum density ; a grain measure of any fluid,
therefore, weighs more or less than a grain,
according as its specific gravity is greater or
less than water at standard temperature.
Cong. 0. f% fZ W. Cubic Inches.
1 = 8 = 128 = 1024 = 61440 = 231
1 = 16 = 128 = 7680 = 28.875
1 = 8 = 480 = 1.8047
1 = 60 = .2256
1 = ,0376
5957. Graduated
Fluid Measures. Fluids
are measured by means of
glass vessels having a grad-
uated scale engraved on
their sides. These are of
different capacities, to mea-
sure 8 ounces, 2 ounces, 1
ounce and 1 drachm re-
spectively; the scale of
each being graduated to re-
present the aliquot parts
of their respective capaci-
ties.
No. 1 represents an 8-ounce measure ; the
figures on the left of the graduated scale de-
note ounces, and those on the right, drachms ;
the first ounce being divided into quarters of
2 drachms each. No. 2 is a 2-ounce measure,
the first half-ounce being divided into
drachms. Nos. 3 and 4 are 1 ounce and 1
drachm measures respectively ; the former is
graduated in drachms, the first of which is
divided into halves ; the latter is marked in
divisions of 5 minims each.
5958. Relative Value ofTJ. S. Apothe-
caries and British Imperial Measure.
(See No, 6031.)
U. S. Imperial Measure.
Apothecaries
Measure. pints.
1 Gallon — .83311 Imp. Gallon, or 6
1 Pint - .83311 " Pint, or
1 Fl.Oz. — 1.04139 " Fl.Oz., or
1 Fl.Dr. — 1.04139 " Fl.Dr., or
1 Minim — 1.04139 " Minim, or
5959. Apothecaries Measure Expressed
in Litres.
Fl.dr. Minims.
2 22.85
6 17.86
0 19.87
1 2.48
1.04
1 Gallon
1 Pint =
1 Fluid ounce =
1 Fluid drachm =
1 Minim =
5960.
3.78515 Litres.
4.73143 Decilitres
2.95715 Centilitres
3.69644 Miffllitres
.06160 «
Value of Apothecaries Measure
in Avoirdupois Weight.
1 Gallon = 8.332698 Pounds
1 Pint = 1.041587 Pounds
1 Fluid Ounce = 1.041587 Ounces
5961. Value of Apothecaries Measure
in Troy Weight.
Apothecaries
Measure.
1 Gallon =
1 Pint =
1 Fluid Ounce =
1 Fluid Drachm =
1 Minim =
5962.
Troy Weight.
Lbs. Oz. Dwt. Grains.
10 1 10 8.88
133 19.11
18 23.69
2 8.96
.95
Value of Apothecaries Measure
in Apothecaries Weight.
Measure. ft f 3 3 Grains Grains
1 Gallon = 10 1 4 0 8.88 = 58328.886
1 Pint =1311 11.11 = 7291.1107
1 Fluid ounce = 71 15.69 = 455.6944
1 Fluid drachm = 2 16.96 = 56.9618
1 Minim .9493
5963. Miscellaneous Measures and
their Equivalents.
Tea-spoonful about 1 fl. drachm.
Dessert " 2 "
Table " 4 "
"Wine-glassful 2 fl. ounces.
Tea-cupful 4 "
Breakfast-cupful 8 "
Tumblerful 8 "
Thimbleful £. fl. drachm.
Pinch (of leaves and flowers) 1 dr. (Trov).
Handful 10
5964. Signs and Abbreviations Used
in Medical Prescriptions.
$ Recipe Take
aa Ana Of each
ft Libra Pound
? TJncia Ounce
3 Drachma Drachm
3 Scrupulus Scruple
Cong Congius Gallon
0 Octarius Pint
/5 Fluid Uncia Fluid Ounce
fZ Fluid Drachma Fluid Drachm
nj? Minimum Minim
Chart.... Chartula Small paper
Coch Cochlear ..Spoonful
I
516
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
Collyr. . . Collyrium Eye-water
Decot . . . Decoctum Decoction
Ft Fiat Make
Garg Gargarysma Gargle
Gr Granum Grain
Gtt Gutta Drop
Haust. . . Haustus Draught
Infus.. ..Infusum Infusion
M Misce Mix
Mass Massa Mass
Mist Mistura Mixture
Pulv Pulvis Powder
Q. S Quantum Sufficit. Sufficient Quantity
S Signa Write
S. S Semis Half
5965. Strength of Doses at Different
Ages. The following gradations for doses of
medicines apportioned to the age of the
patient were originally drawn up by Gaubius.
Under k year -fa of a full dose.
'IT
" 2 years
" 3
" 4
" 7
" 14
" 20
Above 21 the full dose.
" 63
" 77
" 100
Dr. Young gives the following simple for-
mula: For children under 12 years, the doses
of most medicines must be diminished in the
proportion of the age to the age increased by
12. Thus, at 2 years, the dose will be 4- of
that for an adult, viz :
2
2 + 12=|
Sex, temperament, constitutional strength,
and the habits and idiosyncrasies of individ-
uals, must be taken into account. Nor does
the same rule apply to all medicines. Calo-
mel, for instance, is generally borne better by
children than by adults ; while opium affect
them more powerfully, and requires the dose
to be diminished considerably below that in-
dicated above.
5966. Liquid Measure. This is used
for all liquids which are sold by measure. The
United States Government standard gallon,
adopted by the Treasury Department in 1832,
has a capacity of 231 cubic inches, and con-
tains 58,372.2 troy grains of distilled water,
at 39.83° Fahr., the temperature of its max-
imum density.
Gal. Quarts. Pints. Gills. Cubic Inches.
1 = 4 = 8 = 32 = 231
8 = 57.75
4 = 28.875
1 = 7.2175
A Barrel contains 31 \ gallons.
A Tierce " 42
A Puncheon " 2 tierces, or 84
A Hogshead " 2 barrels, or 63
A Pipe " 2 hogsheads, or 126
A Tun " 2 pipes, or 252
5967. Liquid Measure Compared
with Apothecaries Measure. The gallon
and pint are the same in both measures. A
liquid gill contains 4 fluid ounces, or 32 fluid
drachms, or 1920 minims.
5968. Relative Value of TJ. S. Liquid
Measure in English Imperial Measure.
U. States. Imperial. Quart. Pint. Gill.
1 Gallon = .83311 gal., or 3 0 2.66
1 Quart = .83311 qt., or 1 2.66
1 Pint = .83311 pt., or 3.33
1 Gill = .83311 gill, or 0.83
5969. Liquid Measure Expressed in
Litres.
1 Gallon = 3.785148 Litres
1 Quart = 9.46287 Decilitres
iPint = 4.73143 "
1 Gill = 1.18286 "
5970. Dry Measure. The "Winchester
bushel, formerly used in England, contained
2150.42 cubic inches ; this was superseded in
1826 by the Imperial bushel of 2218.192
inches, or 80 pounds of distilled water at 62°
Fahr., and the barometer at 30 inches. In
the United States, the "Winchester bushel of
2150.42 inches has been generally adopted,
which holds 77.627413 pounds of distilled
water at 39.83° Fahr., the temperature of its
maximum density, and 30 inches barometric
pressure. In New York the bushel is de-
clared to contain 80 pounds distilled water at
its maximum density, under the mean pres-
sure of the atmosphere at the level of the
sea. This would make the New York bushel
contain 2216.128 cubic inches, somewhat less
than the Imperial bushel, owing to the differ-
ent standard of temperature of the water.
The "small measure" used in the markets
should contain 2 quarts, or £ peck.
Capacity In
Quarter. Bushels. Pecks. Quarts. pints. Cubic Indies.
1 = 8 = 32 = 256 = 512 = 17203.36
1 = 4 = 32 = 64 = 2150.42
1 = 8 = 16 = 537.605
1 = 2 = 67.200
1 = 33.600
5971. Dry Measure expressed in Litres.
1 Bushel = 35.23661 Litres
IPeck = 8.80915 "
1 Quart = 1.10114 "
IPint = .55057 "
5972. Relative Value of United States
Dry Measure and Imperial Dry Measure.
United States. Imperial. Bush.
1 Quarter = .96945 quarter, or 7
1 Bushel = .96945 bushel, or
Imperial
, pints.
3 0 .36
3 1 6.04
IPeck =.96945 peck, or 1 7.51
1 Quart = .24236 gallon, or 1.94
IPint =.96945 pint, or .97
5973. Weight of a Barrel of Various
Articles. Some things which are sold by
weight or measure are also sold by the Barrel,
the quantity being different for different arti-
cles. The weights are here given. For rice,
GOO pounds. Flour, 196 pounds. Powder, 25
pounds. Corn, as bought and sold in Ken-
tucky, Tennessee, <fcc., 5 bushels of shelled
corn. As bought and sold at New Orleans, a
flour-barrel full of ears. Potatoes, as sold in
New York, a barrel contains 2£ bushels. Pork,
a barrel is 200 pounds, distinguished in quality
by "clear," "mess," "prime." A barrel of
beef is tho Fame weight.
5974. Weight of a Bushel of Various
Commodities. The term bushel is also ap-
plied to a certain arbitrary weight varying
with different articles. "Wheat, beans, pota-
toes, and clover seed, GO pounds to the bushel.
Corn, rye, flax-seed, and onions, 56 pounds.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
517
Corn on the cob, 70 pounds. Buckwheat, 52
pounds. Barley, 48 pounds. Hemp seed, 44
pounds. Timothy seed, 45 pounds. Castor
beans, 46 pounds. Oats, 35 pounds. Bran,
20 pounds. Blue grass seed, 14 pounds.
5979. Decimal Equi
Parts of
Parts of
Decimals. an Inch.
.03125 = &
.06250 = A-
yalents of Fractional
an Inch.
Parts o:
Decimals. an Inch
.53125 = H
.56250 = A
5975. Lineal or Long Measure. The
.09375 =
1 O
.59375 =
ift
32
standard of linear measurements, by which
.12500 =
1
.62500 =
= ¥
all measures of capacity are also regulated, is
derived from the length of a pendulum vibra-
.15625 =
.18750 =
A
X
.65625 =
.68750 =
= H
ting seconds in a vacuum. This, in the lati-
.21875 = 3^
.71875 =
tude of London, is equal to 39.1393 inches,
.25000 = 4-
.75000 = £
and in the City Hall of New York, 39.1012
.28125 =
A
.78125 = M
inches.
.31250 =
.81250 = -Ji
By scientific persons, parts of an inch are
.34375 = ||
.84375 = f|
represented by a decimal fraction, but for me-
chanical purposes the inch is divided into a
.37500 = }
.40625 = i*
.87500 = I
.90625 = H
half, quarters and eighths.
.43750 =
A
.93750 = j£
Mile. Furlongs. Kods. Yards. Feet. Inches.
1 = 8 = 320 = 1760 = 5280 = 63360
.46875 =
r.nflOO —
%
.96875 = fi
1 = 40 = 220 = 660 = 7920
1 C.J IfJJL 1QU
.Ol/Vl/V — J
5980. Pendulum Measure. 6 point:?
i = G<j — ID «5 — iJO
= 1 line. 12 lines = 1 inch.
I = 3 = 36
1 — — 1 0
5981. Shoemakers' Measures. No. 1
5976. Long Measure Expressed in
is 4i inches iu length, and every succeeding
number is J inch. There are 28 divisions, in
Metres.
Metres.
two series of numbers, viz.: from 1 to 13 am
1 Mile = 1609.30634 = 1.609 Kilometres
1 Furlong = 201.16329 = 2.012 Hectometres
1 to 15.
5982. Square or Superficial Measure.
Acre Roods poles Yards Feet liu-hes
1 Rod = 5.02908 = 5.029 Metres
1 Yard = .91438 = 9.144 Decimetres
1 Foot = .30479 = 3.048 Decimetres
1 = 4 = 160 = 4,840 = 43,560 = 6,272,640
1 = 40 = 1,210 = 10,890 = 1,568,160
1 = 304- = 2724- = 39.204
1 Inch = .02539 = 2.539 Centimetres
1 =
9 =
1,296
5977. Compara-
5978. Value of
1 =
144
tive Scale of Inches
in French Metres.
Inches and Feet in
French Metres.
5983. Square Measure in Square Metres.
1 Acre = 4046.66700 sq. metres = 40.46667 Ares
Inches. Millimetres.
T h
1 Rood = 1011.66675 —
10.11667
«
100
i — .00317
IPole ==
25.29167 =
25.29167 Centaree
4
j3g = .00475
1 Yard — .oooua —
1 Foot = .09289 ==
.83609 "
9.289 Milliares
4 = .00635
1 Inch = .000645 =
.0645
••
T ' "
:
fi. = .00794
5984. Government Land Measure.
•
- 90
£ = .00952
A Township — 36 sections, each a mile square.
¥ "
:
ft = .01111
A Section — 640 acres. A Quarter
Section,
k = .01269
half a mile square — 160 acres. An
Eighth
_!
~ SO
ft = .01428
Section,
half a
mile long, north and south,
*
| = .01586
and a quarter
of a mile wide — 80 acres. A
-
H = -01745
Sixteenth Section, a quarter of a mile square
£ = .01904
— 40 acres. The Sections are all numbered
*
I —
if = .02063
one to thirty-six, commencing at the northeast
* --
1 = .02221
corner, thus:
._
|£ = .02379
N $t 1 N E
* -
:
1 = .02539
6
5
4
3
2
1
-
- GO
2 = .05079
8 K
- 50
3 = .07619
4 = .10159
5-== .12699
7
8
9
10
11
12
• —
- ••--—
6 = .15239
;
7 = .17779
t '
• *
8 = .20319
18
17
16*
15
14
13
- 40
9 = .22859
i -
-
10 == .25399
•
- —
11 = .547939
19
20
21
22
23
24
i ..
: 30
12 = .30479
* .
Feet.
2 = .60958
..
:
3 — .91438
30
29
28
27
26
25
•
:
4 = 1.21916
- ao
5 = 1.52395
Sr -
:
6 = 1.82874
31
32
33
34
35
36
- —
7 = 2.13353
i -
- 10
8 = 2.43832
90 ~ i • ' 1 1
The
Sections are all divided in quarters,
*-
:
= x. 74311
10 = 3.04791
which are named by the cardinal points, as in
section 1. The quarters are divided in the
• -
11 = o.oO«<U
same wav.
0 .
H o
12 = 3.65750
•School Section.
518 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
5985. Decimal Equivalents of the Divisions of a Foot.
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
.08333
.16666
.25
.33333
.41666
.5
.58333
.66666
.75
.83333
.91666
116
.00521
.08854
.17187
.25521
.33854
.42187
.50521
.58854
.67187
.75521
.83854
.92187
i
.01041
.09374
.17707
.26041
.34374
.42707
.51041
.59374
.67707
.76041
.84374 .92708
l\
.01562
.09895
.18228
.26562
.34895
.43228
.51562
.59895
.68228
.76562
.84895
.93229
.02083
.10416
.18750
.27083
.35416
.43759
.52083
.60416
.68750
.77083
.85416
.93750
,1
.02604
.10937
.19270
.27604
.35937
.44270
.52604
.60937
.69270
.77604 .85937
.94270
|
.03125
.11458
.19791
.28125
.36458
.44791
.53125
.61458
.69791
.78125
.86458
.94791
ft
.03646
.11979
.20312
.28646
.36979
.45312
.53646
.61979
.70312
.78646
.86979
.95312
}
.04166
.12500
.20832
.29166
.37500
.45833
.54166
.62500
.70832
.79166
.87500
.95833
A
.04687
.13020
.21353
.29687
.38020
.46354
.54687
.63020
.71353
.79687
.88020
.96354
f
.05208
.13541
.21874
.30208
.38541
.46875
.55208
.63541
.71874
.80208
.88541
.96875
-U
.05729
.14062
.22395
.30729
.39062
.47395
.55729
.64062
.72395
.80729
.89062
.97395
f
.06250
.14583
.22916
.31250
.39583
.47916
.56250
.64583
.72916
.81250
.89583
.97916
ri
.06771
.15104
.23437
.31771
.40104
.48437
.56771
.65104
.73437
.81771
.90104
.98437
I
.07292
.15625
.23958
.32292
.40625
.48958
.57292
.65625
.73958
.82292
.90625
.98958
tt
.07813
.16146
.24479
.32813
.41146
.49479
.57813
.66146
.74479
.82813
.91146
.99479
To use the above table — suppose it is re-
quired to find what decimal of a foot is equiv-
alent to 8 inches — look for the column headed
8, and the figures at the top of that column,
.66666, is the decimal required. Again, to find
the decimal of a foot equal to 5f inches, look
in the column under figure 5, run the finger
down that column until it is level with the
£ (marked on the left side of the table); the
figures .47916 give the decimal required.
5986. To Find the Square Feet in
Boards. Multiply the decimal in the table,
corresponding to the width of the board, by
the length of the board in feet.
Breadth
in Inches.
Area of a
Lineal Foot.
Breadth
in Inches.
Area of a
Lineal Foot.
i
.0208
6±
.5208
k
.0417
6i
.5416
1
.0625
6|
.5625
1
.0834
7
.5833
li
.1042
7i
.6042
Ik
.125
7i
.625
li
.1459
7|
.6458
2
.1667
8
.6667
2i
.1875
8f
.6875
2i
.2084
8i
.7084
2|
.2292
8i
.7292
3
.25
9
.75
3i
.2708
9i
.7708
3i
.2916
9i
•7917
3*
.3125
9f
.8125
4
.3334
10
.8334
4*
.3542
io±
.8542
4i
.375
10i
.875
44
.3958
10J
.8959
5
.4167
11
.9167
5i
.4375
Hi
.9375
5i
.4583
11*
.9583
5f
.4792
iif
.9792
6
.5
Example. To find the square feet in a
board 14 i feet long and 9J inches wide.
The decimal in the table opposite 9J inches
is .7708
Multiply by 14i
30832
7708
3854
Answer
Or about
11.1766 feet,
Hi feet.
5987. To Find the Square Surface or
Area of a Circle. Square the radius (half
the diameter), and multiply that by 3.14159;
for small calculations 3| is nearly the same as
3.14159. Thus, to find the area of a circle
whose diameter is 8 feet: The radius is 4
feet, this squared is 16 ; then 16 times 3.14159
is 50.265 square feet. If the diameter is 8
inches, the area would be 50.265 square inches.
5988. Table Showing the Square
Inches Contained in a Circle from Ten
to Seventy-Three Inches in Diameter.
Diameter
Square
Diameter
Square
of Circle.
Inches.
of Circle.
Inches.
10
78.54
42
1388.59
11
95.03
43
1452.20
12
113.10
44
1520.53
13
132.73
45
1590.43
14
153.94
46
1661.91
15
176.71
47
1735.00
16
201.06
48
1809.56
17
226.98
49
1885.74
18
254.47
50
1963.50
19
283.54
51
2042.82
20
314.16
52
2123.72
21
346.36
53
2206.19
22
380.13
54
2290.23
23
415.47
55
2375.83
24
452.39
56
2463.00
25
490.88
57
2551.76
26
530.93
58
2642.00
27
572.56
59
2734.00
28
615.75
60
2827.44
29
660.20
61
2922.47
30
706.86
62
3019.00
31
754.77
63
3117.25
32
804.25
64
3217.00
33
855.30
65
3318.31
34
907.92
66
3421.20
35
962.00
• 67
3526.66
36
1017.88
68
3651.69
37
1075.20
69
3739.29
38
1134.00
70
3848.46
39
1194.60
71
3959.20
40
1256.64
72
4071.51
41
1320.26
73
4185.40
The area may also be obtained by multiply-
ing the square of the diameter by .7854. This
method is deduced from the first one, and is
founded on the fact that the square of any
number is always 4 times as much as the
square of half the number. In the first
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
519
method the radius or half diameter is to be
squared, and multiplied by 3.14159; in the
second, the whole diameter is squared, "which
Avill result in just 4 times as much as the
square of the radius; the multiplier must
be therefore the fourth part of 3.14159, or
.7854.
5989. To Find the Area of a Paral-
lelogram or Square. Multiply the length
of one side by the perpendicular height.
5990. To Find the Area of a Tri-
angle. Multiply the base by £ the perpen-
dicular height. Or, to find the area from three
rides given, from the half sum of the three
rides subtract each side separately ; multiply
the half sum and the three remainders to-
gether, and the square root of the product
will be the area.
5991. To Find the Area of a Trape-
zoid. Multiply the sum of the two parallel
sides by i the perpendicular height.
5992. To Find the Area of a Sector
of a Circle. Multiply the radius of the cir-
cle by 4 the arc of the sector.
5993. To Find the Area of a Segment
of a Circle. Find the area of a sector of a
circle having the same arc, and deduct the
triangle formed between the two radii and the
chord of the arc.
5994. Cloth Measure, used for measur-
ing dry goods.
Yard. Quarters. Nails. Inches.
1 = 4 = 16 = 36
1=4=9
1 = 2*
The height of horses is measured by the
" hand" of 4 inches.
5995. Gunter's Chain. This is the
measure generally adopted in land surveying,
is 22 yards in length, and contains 100 links,
each link, consequently being 7.92 inches
long. The length of the chain was fixed at
22 yards, because a square whose side is 22
yards (1 chain) contains exactly -^ acre; in
other words, a rectangular plot of ground 1
chain in width and 10 chains in length con-
tains an acre. 80 chains make 1 mile in
length; and, consequently, a square mile
contains 640 acres. For surveying and laying
out plots and building lots, a chain of 50 feet,
or one of 25 feet (the usual frontage of a lot)
is usually employed by surveyors.
5996. Cubic or Solid Measurement.
Yard. Feet. Inches.
1 = 27 = 46,656
1 = 1,728
5997. American Cord-Wood Measure.
Timber is measured by the ton of 50 cubic
feet of round, or 40 cubic feet of hewn tim-
ber. Cord-wood is measured by the cord,
which consists of a pile 8 lineal feet long and
4 feet high ; and, as the wood is reckoned to
be 4 feet in length, contains 128 cubic feet.
A stick of cord- wood should measure 4 feet 4
inches from end to end, to compensate for the
slope or bevil of the cut, and provide for an
equivalent of 4 feet of solid wood. The con-
tents of each lineal foot of the length of the
pile is called a cord foot, and contains one-
eighth part of a cord, or 16 cubic feet. A
New York load of wood is one-third of a
cord.
A shipping ton contains 42 cubic feet.
Also, the cubic foot being considered unity,
or 1, a cylinder 1 foot in diameter and 1 foot
in length = .7854.
A sphere 1 foot in diameter = .5236.
A cone 1 foot in diameter at the base ^id
1 foot in height = .2619.
5998. Cubic Measure in Cubic Metres.
1 Yard = .76450 Cubic Metres
1 Foot = 28.31486 Cubic Decimetres
1 Inch = 16.38591 Cubic Centimetres
5999. Table of Solid Feet reduced to
Solid Inches.
> Feet. Inches.
Feet Inches.
Feet. Inches.
2= 3456
35= 60480
68=117504
3 5184
36 62208
69 119232
4 6912
37 63936
70 120960
5 8640
38 65664
71 122688
6 10368
39 67392
72 124416
7 12096
40 69120
73 126144
8 13824
41 70848
74 127872
9 15552
42 72576
75 129600
10 17280
43 74304
76 131328
11 19008
44 76032
77 133056
12 20736
45 77760
78 134784
13 22464
46 79488
79 136512
14 24192
47 81216
80 138240
15 25920
48 82944
81 139968
16 27648
49 84672
82 141696
17 29376
50 86400
83 143424
18 31104
51 88128
84 145152
19 32832
52 89956
85 146880
20 34560
53 91584
86 148608
21 36288
54 93312
87 150336
22 3&-16
55 95040
88 152064
23 39744
56 96768
89 153792
24 41472
57 98496
90 155520
25 43200
58 100224
91 157248
26 44928
59 101952
92 158976
27 46656
60 103680
93 160704
28 48384
61 105408
94 162432
29 50112
62 107136
95 164160
30 51840
63 108864
96 165888
31 53568
64 110592
97 167616
32 55296
65 112320
98 169344
33 57024
66 114048
99 171072
34 58752
67 115776
100 172800
6000. Measurement of Stone and
Brick-Work.
1 Perch, Maso
Wk feet long,
16 inches wide.
12 " high,
is' or Quarrymen's Measure.
_ ( 22 cubic feet. To be
\ measured in wall.
1(5 i feet long,
18 inches wide,
12 " _ high,
_ ( 24.75 cubic feet. To
\ be measured in pile.
1 cubic yard = 3 feet x 3 feet X 3 feet = 27
cubic feet. The cubic yard has become the
standard for all contract work of late years.
Stone walls less than 16 inches thick count
as if 16 inches thick to mason ; over 16 inches
thick, each inch additional is measured.
Number of Bricks required in Walls for each
Square Foot of Face of Wall.
Thickness of Wall.
24 inches 46
28 " 52*
12 " 22i 32 " 60
16 " 30 33 " 67J
20 " 37i 42 " 75
Cubic yard = 600 bricks in wall.
Perch (22 cubic feet) = 500 bricks in wall.
To pave 1 sq. yard on flat requires 41 bricks.
1 " edge " 68 "
Thickness of Wall.
4 inches...
520
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6001. To Find the Cubical Contents
the reason that many sticks of timber taper
of a Cylinder. Find the area of the circular
cud, as directed in No. 5987, and then multi-
suddenly, and others are unequal in diameter
when the average is taken.
ply the area by the length of the cylinder ;
the product will be the cubical content. The
same denomination of measurement must be
Diameter
Inches.
Contents.
1 foot long.
Diameter
Inches.
Contents.
1 foot long.
adhered to throughout the calculation, as, if
4.
.0872
27.5
4.12
the diameter or area is in inches, the length
5.
.137
28.
4.28
must be in inches. Thus : to find the cubical
6.
.196
28.5
4.43
content of a cylinder 8 inches in diameter
7.
.267
29
4.59
and 3 feet long ; we find in No. 5987 that the
7.5
.31
29.5
4.75
area of a circle 8 inches in diameter is 50.265
8.
.35
30.
4.91
square inches ; multiply this by 36 inches (3
Feet reduced to inches, the same denomination
8.5
9.
.39
.44
30.5
31.
5.07
5.24
as the given diameter), and the product is
9.5
.49
31.5
5.41
1809.54 cubic inches, or 1
foot, 81.54 cubic
10.
.55
32.
5.58
inches.
10.5
.60
32.5
5.76
6002. Table of Spherical Contents,
11.
.66
33.
5.94
&c. This table shows the
relative proper-
11.5
.72
33.5
6.12
tions between the diameter, surface, and
12.
.79
34.
6.31
capacity (or cubical contents) of spheres.
12.5
.85
34.5
6.49
Diameters.
Surfaces.
Capacities.
13.
.92
35.
6.68
13.5
.99
35.5
6.87
1
3.141
.523
14.
1.07
36.
7.VT
2
12i567
4.188
14.5
1.15
36.5
7.27
3
28.274
14.137
15.
1.23
37.
7.47
4
50.265
33.51
15.5
1.31
37.5
7.67
5
78.540
65.45
16.
1.40
38.
7.88
10
314.159
523.6
16.5
1.48
38.5
' 8.09
15
706.9
1767.1
17.
1.58
39.
8.30
20
1256.6
4189.
17.5
1.67
39.5
8.51
25
1963.5
8181.
18.
1.77
40.
8.73
30
2827.
14137.
18.5
1.87
40.5
8.95
40
5026.
33510.
19.
1.97
41.
9.17
6003. To Find the Cubical Contents
of Spars or Other Round Timber. If
the spar or timber were the same thickness
through its entire length, the diameter of all
parts would bo the same, and one measure-
ment would suffice to obtain the correct
diameter; its cubical contents could then be
found in the same way as for a cylinder ; but
this is hardly ever the case, as the thickness
or diameter is different in every part. If the
spar tapers regularly from one end to the
other, measure the diameter at each end, add
the two measurements together, and divide
their sum by 2; this will give the average
diameter. A piece of timber of irregular
thickness must be measured in portions,
19.5
20.
20.5
21.
21.5
22.
22.5
23.
23.5
24.
24.5
25.
25.5
26.
2G.5
27.
2.07
2.18
2.29
2.40
2.52
2.G4
2.76
2.89
3.11
3.14
3.27
3.41
3.55
3.69
3.83
3.98
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
9..61
10.08
10.555
11.044
11.541
12.049
12.566
13.095
13.635
14.186
14.747
15.320
15.904
16.499
17.104
17.720
each portion extending as far as the tapering
is regular, and the contents of the different
6004. Capacity of Cubical Boxes. A
box 1 foot and 1 inch each way, i. e., length,
portions added together to
get the contents
breadth, and depth, will contain 1 standard
of the whole. Having obtained the correct
bushel.
diameter in
inches, look for it in the next
Feet. Inches. Bushels.
table, and opposite it, in the next column to
1 1 = 1
the right, will be the contents in feet of 1
1 4i = 2
foot of timber in length ; multiply this by the
1 6f = 3
length of the timber in feet, and the result
1 8i = 4
will be the contents of the whole.
1 10^ = 5
Thus, to find the contents of a IG-foot log
1 Hi •; an 6
whose average diameter is
found to be 13|
2 4=7
(that is, 13.5) inches, we find the figures on
22 = 8
the next right hand column in the table are
23 = 9
.99 ; this means that a log 1
foot long and 13£
2 4 = 10
inches in diameter contains .99 or ^A of a
6005. Capacity of Boxes of Different
cubic foot.
Multiply this .99 by 16, the
Dimensions. A box 4 feet 7 inches long,
length of the log in feet, and we get 15.84, or
and 2 feet 4 inches in width, and 2 feet 4
about 15£ cubic feet, which is the contents oi
inches in depth, will contain 20 bushels. The
the whole log.
dimensions of a cylinder containing 1 United
About 10 per cent, should be deducted
States standard bushel are 185 inches inside
from the results given in
the table when
diameter, and 8 inches deep. A box 24 inches
toll is charged on rafts of
spars or logs, for
by 16 inches square, and 28 inches deep, will
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
521
contain a barrel, 5 bushels. A box 24
inches by 16 inches square, and 14 inches deep,
will contain a half barrel. A box 24 inches
by 11.2 inches square, and 8 inches deep, will
contain 1 bushel. A box 12 inches by 11.2
inches square, and 8 inches deep, will contain
£ bushel. A box 8 inches by 8.4 inches
square, and 8 inches deep, will contain 1 peck.
A box 8 inches by 8 inches square, and 4.2
inches deep, will contain 1 gallon. A box 7
inches by 8 inches square, and 4.8 inches
Table Shoicing the Number of Feet
deep, will contain 1 gallon. A box 4 inches
by 4 inches square, and 4.2 inches deep, will
contain 1 quart.
6006. To Find the Amount of Lum-
ber any Log will Make. Find the length
of the log in the left-hand column of the next
Table ; then on the top of the page find tho
diameter, and under the same will bo found
the quantity of lumber the log will make ; cal-
culated for any length from 10 to 25 feet, and
for any diameter from 12 to 44 inches.
of Inch-Board in a Log of Timber.
fl
Diameter in Inches.
nr*
ss
12
13
14
15
16
17
13
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
~~w
49
61
72
89
99
116
133
150
175
190
209
235
252
287
313
342
3G3
11
54
67
79
93
109
127
147
165
192
209
230
259
278
315
344
377
400
12
59
73
83
107
119
139
160
180
210
228
251
283
303
344
375
411
436
13
64
79
93
116
129
150
173
195
227
247
272
306
328
373
408
445
473
14
69
85
100
125
139
1(52
187
210
245
266
292
330
353
401
439
479
509
15
74
91
107
134
149
173
200
225
2G2
285
313
353
379
430
469
514
545
1C
79
97
114
142
159
185
213
240
280
304
334
377
404
459
500
548
582
17
84
103
122
151
168
193
227
255
297
323
355
400
429
487
531
582
618
18
89
109
129
160
178
203
240
270
315
342
376
424
454
516
562
616
654
19
93
116
136
169
183
219
253
285
332
361
397
447
480
545
594
650
692
20
98
122
143
178
193
232
267
300
350
380
418
470
505
573
625
684
728
21
103
128
150
187
208
243
280
315
368
399
439
495
530
603
656
719
764
22
108
134
157
196
218
255
293
330
385
418
4GO
518
555
631
688
753
800
23
113
140
164
205
228
266
307
345
403
437
480
542
571
659
719
787
837
24
118
146
172
214
238
278
320
3GO
420
456
501
566
603
683
750
821
873
25
123
152
179
223
248
289
333
375
438
475
",22
589
631
717
781
856
910
fl
Diameter in Inches.
0^
3 a
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
10
381
411
444
4GO
490
500
547
577
644
661
700
752
795
840
872
925
11
419
451
488
506
539
550
602
634
708
734
770
828
874
924
959
1017
12
457
493
532
552
588
600
657
692
772
801
840
903
954
L007
1046
1110
13
495
534
576
598
637
650
712
750
836
868
910
978
1033
1091
1135
1203
14
533
575
622
644
686
700
766
807
901
934
980
1053
1113
L175
1222
1295
15
571
616
66G
690
735
750
821
865
965
1001
1050
1129
1192
L259
1309
1388
10
609
657
710
736
784
800
876
923
1029
1068
1120
1204
1272
L343
1396
1480
17
647
698
755
782
833
850
931
980
1094
1134
1190
1279
1351
L427
1484
1573
18
685
739
799
828
882
900
985
1038
1158
1201
1260
1354
1431 '
L511
1571
1665
19
723
780
843
874
931
950
1040
1096
1222
1268
1330
1430
1510
1595
1658
1758
20
761
821
888
920
980
1000
1095
1152
1287
1335
1400
1505
1590 1
L679
1745
1850
21
800
863
932
966
1029
1050
1150
1210
1351
1401
1470
1580
1669 ]
L763
1833
1943
22
838
904
976
1012
1078
1100
1204
1268
1415
1468
1540
1655
1749 ]
L847
1920
2035
23
876
945
1021
1058
1127
1150
1259
1322
1480
1535
1610
1730
1828 ]
L931
2007
2128
24
914
986
1065
1104
1176
1200
1314
1380
1544
1601
1680
1806
1908 i
2015
2094
2220
25
952
1027 1109
1150
1225
1250
1369
1438
1608
1668
1750
1881
1987 '<
!099
2182
2313
6007. Measure of Time.
Lunar
Month. Weeks. Days. Hnnra. Minutes. Seconds
1 = 4 = 23 = 672 = 40,320 = 2419,200
1 = 7 = 168 = 10,080 = 604,800
1 = 24 = 1,440 = 86,400
1 = 60 = 3,600
1 = 60
The year of 365 days is divided into 12
calendar months, 7 of which have 31 days; 4
have 30 days; and 1, February, 28 clays. The
solar year consists of 365 days, 5 hours, 48
minutes, and 49 seconds; this excess over
365 days, nearly 6 hours, or J day, is allowed
to accumulate through each 4 years, and pro-
vided for every fourth, or leap year, by adding
1 day to February ; but as this is adding a
trifle too much, every 400 years one leap year
is omitted, and this occurs when the year is
divisible by 400 without remainder.
In the year 1582, the fact was observed by
Pope Gregory XIII that, in consequence of
this discrepancy not having been taken into
account since the commencement of tho Ju-
lian system (see No. 6064), the true time
exceeded the time as then reckoned by 10
days ; and therefore ordered the llth of
March to be accounted the 21st. The Pope's
edict was generally observed by the nations
subject to his authority, but the Protestant
countries continued the use of the Julian
reckoning. This gave rise to the two modes
of computation still found in Europe, called
the old style and new style. Tho latter was
adopted in. England in 1752, by making the
1st of September the 12th.
Whenever the date of the year is divisible
by 4 without remainder, February has 29
days, and that year is called Bissextile.
52;
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6008. Table Showing1 the Number of
Days from any Date in One Month to
the Same Date in any Other Month.
From To
4
i
1
I
<
£
a
•
g
1-3
f
1
£
j!
0
g
fc
1
January.
365 31
59
90
120
151 181
212
243
273
304;334
Feby
March. . .
334365
306337
2H
365
59
31
H9
61
120;150 181 212
92122 153'l84
242 273 303
214! 245 275
April
275 306 334 365
80
61
91
122153
183 214 244
May J245 ;276 304 335 365
31
61
92
123
153il84214
June
214
245273304334365
30
61
92
122
153 183
July
184
215 243 274;304 335 365
31
62
92
123153
August.
153 184!212 243 2731304 334 365
n
61
92122
Sept
122 153 181 212 242 273 303 334 365
30
61
91
October.
92 123 151 182;212|243 273 304
335 365
31
61
Nov
Dec
61
31
92120.151il81
62| 90.1211151
212242273304334
182 212 243 274 304
365
335
30
30.-
The geographical or nautical mile, accord-
ing to Brande, is equivalent to 1.153 statute
miles ; this would give 2029.3 yards to the
nautical mile, 69.18 statute miles to the de-
gree, and about 24.905 miles for the earth's
equatorial circumference. According to one
of, the very best authorities, Chambers' Ency-
| clopeedia, the nautical mile contains 2029
i yards; on this basis, a degree would measure
| about 69.17 statute miles, and the earth's cir-
cumference about 24.901 statute miles. A
great circle of the earth is an imaginary line
or belt so drawn round the earth as to divide
it into two equal parts or hemispheres ; the
equator and the ecliptic are great circles. In
navigation, sailors measure depth of sound-
ings and short distances by the fathom of 6
., 7 -w-r j f. ,-t ~ -, „ u*f» ooici DUULV uiominjc^ uy tiic imiiurtt'
Example: How many days from the 2d of fe|t and the caUe.lengtll Ofy120 fathoms.
ahvn n v\r rn T nn *)(\ t\\ d n mi or T I ,t\r\\r f*vm ' **
February to the 2d of August? Look for
February at the left hand, and August at the
top, in the angle is 181. In leap year, add
one day if February be included.
6009. Table Showing Difference
Time at 12 o'Clock (Noon) at New York.
Boston 12.12 p. M.
Quebec 12.12
Portland 12.15
London 4.55
Paris 5.05
Eome 5.45
Constantinople. 6.41
Vienna 6.00
St. Petersburg.. 6.57
Pekin, night. . .12.40 A. M.
Geographical or Nautical Mea-
sure.
Great Circle. Degrees. Leagues. Geo. Miles.
1 = 360 = 7200 = 21600
1 = 20 = 60
1 = 3
601 1. Nautical Time. The hour of the
New York 12.00 N
Buffalo 11.40 A
Cincinnati 11.18
Chicago 11.07
St. Louis 10.55
San Francisco. . 8.45
New Orleans. . .10.56
Washington 11.48
Charleston 11.36
Havana 11.25
6010.
nf
tween midnight and noon, or noon and mid-
Uw
.If.
night, are divided into 3 portions of 8 bells
•tt
M.
each, the duration of time between bells being
half an hour. During the course of each 12
hours, the same number of strokes of the bell
will necessarily be used to denote three differ-
ent hours or periods of time.
Bell. Clock-Time. Clock-Time. Clock-Time.
1 denotes 12.30 4.30 8.30
M.
2
1. 5. 9.
ja-
3
1.30 5.30 9.30
4
2. 6. 10.
5
2.30 6.30 10.30
6
3. 7. 11..
7
3.30 7.30 11.30
8
4. 8. 12.
6012. Capacity of Cisterns, &c.
Diameter
in Feet
and Inches.
Depth in
Feet and Inches.
Number
of Wine
Gallons.
Number of
Barrels.
No. of
Hhds.
No. of
Gallons in 10
Inches Depth.
2 ft.
2 ft.
45
1&
M
19
2 ft. 6 in.
2 ft. 6 in.
90
2f
1ft
30
3 ft.
3 ft.
158
5
2i
44
3 ft. 6 in.
3 ft. 6 in.
252
8
4
60
4 ft.
4 ft.
374
lltt
5f§
78
4 ft. 6 in.
4 ft. 6 in.
524
16r
m
97
5 ft.
5 ft.
732
nH
122
5 ft. 6 in.
5 ft. 6 in.
976
31
15 h
148
6 ft.
6 ft.
1267
40 |
20 i
176
6 ft. 6 in.
6 ft. 6 in.
1614
51 ££
85f*
207
7 ft.
7 ft.
2016
64
32
240
8 ft.
8 ft.
3004
952-!
47 4 a
313
8 ft. 6 in.
8 ft. 6 in.
3600
114H
353
9 ft.
9 ft.
4276
396
9 ft. 6 in.
9 ft. 6 in.
5027
159$J
f .,__
441
10 ft.
10 ft.
5868
186^1
93 j»
489
11 ft.
11 ft.
7814
248A
124^
592
12 ft.
12 ft.
10152
328*1
161 &
705
13 ft.
13 ft.
12901
409 f
S04ff
827
14 ft.
14 ft.
16111
5Hg|
255^
959
15 ft.
15 ft.
19818
629A
314*4
1101
20 ft.
20 ft.
46992
149lfi
1958
25 ft.
25 ft.
91770
2913 i
1456 f
3059
Example : Suppose you desire to ascertain
the capacity of a cistern 4 feet 6 inches in
diameter and 4 feet 6 inches in depth. Find
the diameter in the left hand column, and
directly opposite you will see that the cis-
tern will hold 524 gallons of 231 cubic inches
each, equal to 16JS barrels, or 8|§ hogsheads.
The right hand column shows the number of
gallons contained in 10 inches of depth. By
this standard you may easily increase or
diminish the capacity at pleasure. Thus, if
you wish the above cistern to hold 97 gallons
more, make it 10 inches deeper ; or 194 gal-
lons more, 20 inches deeper.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
523
Latin ]
t
HECTO
KILO
MYRIA
refix DECI
CKNTI
MTT.T.T
100 "
1000 "
10000 "
TJT of a unit
TW
i u
6013. Log Lines. 1 knot = 51.1625
feet, or 51 feet If -j- inches. 1 fathom =
5.11625 feet, or 5 feet 1£ + inches, estima-
ting a mile at 6139J feet, and using a 30"
glass. If a 28" glass is used, and eight divi-
sions, then 1 knot = 47 feet 9 -f- inches.
1 fathom = 5 feet llf inches. The line
should be about 150 fathoms long, having 10
fathoms between the chip and first knot for
stray line. Miles X .87 = knots. Knots X
1.15 = miles. Feet per minute X .01 = knots
per hour. 1 knot = 6082.66 feet; 1 statute
mile = 5280 feet.
6014. The Decimal System of
"Weights and Measures. A permissive
law has already been passed by the American
aad British governments, adopting the deci-
mal system as applied to weights and mea-
sures. It is substantially the same as the
French decimal system, and founded on units
of the same value. The multiples and sub-
divisions of the different units are the same ;
Greek prefixes being used to denote the
multiples, and Latin prefixes the fractional
parts of the units.
The Greek prefix DEKA means 10 units
The
The fundamental unit of all the decimal
weights and measures is the METRE; the
standard length of which is the ioooloooo- of a
quadrant of the earth's meridian, equivalent
to 39.371 inches. The unit of dry and liquid
measures of capacity is the LITRE, which is
the TfiW of a cubic metre, and contains
61.028 cubic inches. These figures are as
exact as a calculation involving twelve places
of decimals will bring it. The government
standard, adopted as sufficiently correct for
all practical purposes, is 61.022 cubic inches ;
this is based on a metre of 39.3685 inches,
•which would make the gram 15.432 grains.
The GRAM or unit of weight is the weight of
a cubic centimetre (Tfoj- of a metre) of water
at 39.83° Fahr., and is equivalent to 15.434
grains. For post-office purposes, the k ounce
avoirdupois is declared equivalent to 15 grams.
The ARE, or unit of surface measurement, is
the i^tf of a square metre, or 119.6 square
yards. This system of weights and measures
has not as yet come into general use, either in
America or England. Its advantages are
indisputably great for facilitating calculation
as well as establishing uniform international
standards ; but its adoption necessarily meets
with much opposition, as it overthrows not
only all the old, arbitrary units of measure-
ment, but their multiples and subdivisions
also. It seems so natural to halve and quar-
ter, and count by the dozen, that even in our
decimal currency we cannot dispense with
the half and quarter dollar and eagle ; in fact,
the advantage of our decimal currency can-
not be appreciated to its full extent until the
custom of counting by the dozen is entirely
superseded by the decade. The dozen, 12, is
divisible by 2, 3, 4, and 6 ; the decade, 10, by 2
and 5 only ; and, although this is a matter of
little moment as far as regards calculation, it
makes a great difference for practical subdi-
vision. Old rooted customs are difficult to
eradicate, but there is no doubt that the
dozen, half, and quarter, those stumbling-
blocks in the way of the decimal system, will
eventually disappear as entirely as the now
totally obsolete eighth and sixteenth of a
dollar, the Mexican shilling and sixpence.
6015. Official Standard Metre. The
following information was lately given by
Mr. Hilgard, of the United States Coast Sur-
vey, to the Journal of the Franklin Institute :
"There are, in the custody of the Treasury De-
partment, at the Office of "Weights and Mea-
sures, the following authentic copies of the
standard metre and kilogramme of France,
viz. : Metre of platinum, compared and certi-
fied by Arago ; metre of steel, compared and
certified by Silbermann; kilogramme of pla-
tinum, compared and certified by Arago;
kilogramme of brass (gilt), compared and cer-
tified by Silbermann. The length of the
metre is 39.3685 inches of the United States
standard scale, and the kilogramme is 15432.2
grains, or 2 pounds, 3 ounces, 119.7 grains
avoirdupois. There is also another metre,
the property of the American Philosophical
Society, which is one of the twelve original
metres made by the French Government, and
was brought to this country by Mr. Hassler,
the originator of the United States Coast
Survey. A comparison between this bar and
the standard of France at the Conservatory
of Arts and Trades was made by Dr. F. A. P.
Barnard, with the result that, at the tempera-
ture of melting ice, there is no appreciable
difference, by the most delicate means of
comparison, between the platinum standard
of the Conservatory and this iron metre."
The above standard metre of 39.3685 inches
would make the equatorial circumference of
the earth measure 24.854 statute miles. Bes-
sel's calculations, given in Chambers' Ency-
clopaedia, give the equatorial circumference
at 24.901 j* miles. If this measurement be
correct, the standard metre should be 39.371
inches. This difference, however, is so trifling
that it would not be appreciable for all prac-
tical purposes.
6016. Decimal Measures of Length.
Myriametre = 10,000 metres.
Kilometre = 1,000 metres.
Hectometre = 100 metres.
Dekametre = 10 metres.
Metre = 1 metre.
Decimetre ^ metre.
Centimetre T^ metre.
Millimetre y^nr metre.
6017. Value of Metric Measures of
Length in Long Measure.
Miles. Yds. Ft. Inches.
Myriametre =6 376 1 2
Kilometre = 1093 1 11
Hectometre = 109 1 1.1
Dekametre = 10 2 9.71
Metre = 10 3.371
Decimetre = 3.937
Centimetre = .394
For general purposes, or small calculations,
the following equivalents will be found suffi-
ciently accurate : 1 millimetre is equal to ^V
inch ; 1 centimetre is equal to f- inch ; 1 deci-
metre is equal to 3 -fs inches; 1 metre is
equal to 39£ inches ; &I& metre is equal to 36
inches or 1 yard.
524
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6018. Value of Metres in Inches.
Millimetre. Metre. Inches.
1 = .001 = .03937
2 = .002 = .07874
3 = .003 = .11811
4 = .004 = .15748
5 = .005 = .19685
6 = .006 = .23622
7 = .007 = .27560
8 = .008 = .31497
9 = .009 = .35434
Centimetre.
1 = .01 = .3937
2 = .02 = .7874
3 = .03 = 1.1811
4 = .64 = 1.5748
5 = .05 = 1.9685
6 = .06 = 2.3622
7 = .07 = 2.7559
8 = .08 = 3.1497
9 = .09 = 3.5434
Decimetre.
1 = .1 = 3.9371
2 = .2 = 7.8742
3 = .3 = 11.8113
4 = .4 = 15.7484
5 = .5 = 19.6855
6 = .6 = 23.6226
7 = .7 = 27.5597
8 = .8 = 31.4968
9 = .9 = 35.4339
6019. Value of Metres in Feet.
Decimetres.
Feet.
Metres. Feet.
1
sm
.328
100
2
=
.656
3
sa
.984
4
s-
1.312
• 300
5
=
1.640
_SB.
6
—
1.968
7
—
2.297
_
8
—
2.625
9
=
2.953
.52.
Hetrei
L
• 250
1
3.281
2
6.562
3
9.843
Ji.
4
—
13.124
5
16.405
-
6
7
=
19.686
22.967
-22.
200
8
—
26.248
9
=
29.529
~;
Dekan
letre. Matr
-t f\
8.
OO Q1
SO '-
1
2
= 10
= 20
— ,32. ol
= 65.62
• 150
3
= 30
= 98.43
~ :
4
= 40
= 131.24
411 '-
5
= 50
= 164.05
-
6
= 60
= 196.86
'-
7
= 70
= 229.67
'-_
8
= 80
= 262.48
_so.^
• 100
9
= 90
= 295.29
:
Hecto
metre
-
1
= 100
= 328.1
~~ :
2
= 200
= 656.2
tO ;
3
== 300
= 984.3
:
4
= 400
= 1312.4
_ ;
• BO
5
= 500
= 1640.5
:
6
= 600
= 1968.6
3» -
7
= 700
= 2296.7
8
= 800
= 2624.8
—
9
= 900
= 2952.9
(i
decimetres, the relative scale of feet will
onsist of the same figures, with the decimal
)oint removed one place to the left, to divide
)y 10, the millimetre being -^ decimetre.
3020. Decimal Measures of Capacity.
Names.
Number of
Litres.
Cubic Measure.
Kilolitre, or stere
Hectolitre
1,000
100
10
1
ion
i rtnn
1 cubic metre
i*j) cubic metre
10 cu. decimetres
1 cub. "
A, cub. "
10 cu. centimetre
1 cu. centimetre
Dekalitre
Litre
Decilitre
Centilitre
Millilitre
The foregoing scale may be used for any
other portion of the metrical system ; foi
instance, if millimetres be used instead o
The following are approximate values, cor-
rect enough for rough calculations. One
millilitre is equal to 15i grain measures of
water ; one centilitre is equal to 154 grain
measures, or 3 fluid drachms ; one decilitre is
iqual to 1,540 grain measures, or 3£ fluid
ounces; one litre is equal to 15,406 grain
measures, or 2^ pints ; one cubic centimetre
of water at its maximum density weighs 154
grains, and is $• fluid drachm.
6021. Value of Metric Measures of
Capacity in U. S. Dry Measure.
Bush. Peck. Quart. Pint.
Kilolitre = 28 1 4|
Hectolitre = 2 3 2 1.6
Dekalitre = 1 0 1.6
Litre = 1.816
Decilitre = .181
Centilitre = .018
6022. Value of Metric Measures of
Capacity in U. S. Liquid Measure.
Gals. Quarts. Pints. Giils.
Kilolitre = 264 0 1 1.6
Hectolitre = 26 1 1 1.36
Dekalitre = 221 0.136
Litre = 1 0 0.413
Decilitre = .841
Centilitre = . .084
6023. Equivalent of Metric Measures
of Capacity in U. S. Apothecaries
Measure.
Oal.
Hectolitre = 26
Dekalitre = 2
Litre =
Decilitre = ,
Centilitre =
Pint.
3
5
2
Fluid Fluid
)unce. Drachm. Minims.
5 5 20
2 1 20
1 6 32
333
2 42
6024. Value of Metric Measures of
Capacity in Imperial Dry Measure.
Bush. Pecks. Gals. Pints.
Kilolitre = 27 2 0 0.800
Hectolitre =230 0.080
Dekalitre = 2 1.608
Litre = 1.760
Decilitre = .176
6025. Value of Metric Measures of
Capacity in Imperial Liquid Measure.
Hhds. Gals. Qts. Pts. Gills.
Kilolitre = 3 31 0 0 3.5-00
Hectolitre = 22 0 0 0.320
Dekalitre = 201 2.432
Litre = 1 3.040
Decilitre = -704
6026. Decimal Measures of Surface.
A
Hectare.. 10, 000 square metres
Are 100 square metres
Centare... 1 square metre
Kqutvalcntstn
Square Mcueute.
Acres, sq. yds. Pq. ft
metres 2 2279 5.76
119 5.4
1 1.76
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
525
6027. Decimal "Weights.
Names
Number of
Grama.
Wi-Uht <>l What
quantity of Water at
maximum density.
Millier, or Touneau
Quintal. . . .
1,000,000
100,000
10,000
1,000
100
10
1
h
iAo
1 (100
1 cub. metre
1 hectolitre
10 litres
1 litre
1 decilitre
10 cu. cent're
1 cu. cent're
^ cu. cent're
10 cu. milm's
1 cu. milm'e
M yriagram
Kilogram or kilo..
Hectogram . .
Dek agram
Gram ............
Decigram
Centigram
Milligram
6028. Equivalent of Metric Weights
in Avoirdupois Weight.
Lbs. Oz. Dr.
Miilier = 2204 9 1.6
Quintal = 220 7 4.96
Myriagram = 22 0 11.69
Kilogram = 2 4.37
Hectogram = 3 8.44
Dekagram = 5.64
Gram = .56
6029. Equivalent of Metric Weights
in Troy Weight.
Lbs. Oz. Dwts. Grains.
Millier = 2677 1 19 20.
Quintal = 267 8 11 23.6
Myriagram = 26 9 5 4.77
Kilogram = 282 12.48
Hectogram = 34 6.05
Dekagram = 6 10.21
Gram = 15.43
Decigram = 1.54
Centigram = .15
6030. Equivalent of Metric Weights
in U. S. Apothecaries Weight.
Millier
Quintal
Myri agram
Kilogram
Hectogram
Dekagram
Gram
Decigram
Lbs. Oz. Dr. Scr. Grs.
2677 1 7 2 16.
267 8 4 2 7.6
26 9 2 0 4.77
2810 0.48
312 2.05
2 1 14.21
15.43
1.54
For general purposes the following values
are sufficiently correct: 1 milligram is
equal to -9V grain ; 1 centigram is equal to £
grain; 1 decigram is equal to 1£ grains; 1
gram is equal to 15£ grains; 1 dekagram
is equal to 154 grains ; 1 hectogram is
equal to 1,543 grains ; 1 kilogram is equal
to 15,432 grains.
6031. English Weights and Mea-
sures. Avoirdupois and Troy weight are
exactly the same as used in the United States,
and the tables will be found in N"os. 5935, &c.
In the new British Pharmacopoeia, the weights
are expressed in pounds, ounces, and grains,
avoirdupois ; thus superseding the Apothe-
caries weight as now in use in the United
States. The old British avoirdupois drachm
d1^ ounce or 27.344 grains) is now obsolete,
except in weighing silk. The new drachm is
i ounce.
6032. Imperial Standard Measure.
O«l. Quarts. Pints. F. Oz. F. Dr. Minims.
8 = 160 = 1280 = 76.800
2 = 40 = 320 = 19.200
1 = 20 = 160 = 9.600
1 = 8 = 480
1 = 60
The standard unit of this measure is the
gallon which is declared by statute to contain
10 pounds avoirdupois (70,000 Troy grains) of
distill^fl water at a temperature of 62° Fabr.,
the barometer being at 30 inches. The weight
of a cubic inch of water, under the foregoing
conditions, is 252.458 grains ; the capacities of
the measures are therefore as follows :
Imperial Gallon = 277.274 Cubic Inches.
Quart = 69.3185 "
" Pint = 34.65925 "
Fluid Ounce = 1.73296 "
" Drachm = .21662 "
Thus it will be seen that there is a slight
difference in weight between the English and
United States unit of capacity, viz.: The
cubic inch of water; the English being
weighed at 62° Fahr., and the United States
at 39.83°. (See No. 5935.)
6033. Imperial Measure Expressed in
Litres.
1 Gallon = 4.54339 Litres
1 Quart = 1.13585 "
1 Pint = 5.67925 Decilitres
1 Fluid Ounce = 2.83962 Centilitres
1 " Drachm = 3.54952 Millilitres
1 Minim = .05916 "
6034. Measure of Capacity for all
Liquids.
Tun. Pipes. Hhds. Bbl«. Onions. (Jnartn. pints. Gilln.
1== 2= 4 =8 = 262 = 1008 = 2016 = 8064
1 = 2 = 4 — 126 = 504 = 1008 = 4032
1 = 2 = 63 = 252 = 504 == 2016
1 = 31 >i = 126 = 252 = 1008
1 = 4 = 8 = 32
1 = 2 = 8
1 = 4
The gallon is the Imperial measure of
277.274 cubic inches ; and the gill contains 5
ounces avoirdupois of water. In addition to
the above measures, there is the Tierce of
42 gallons, and the Puncheon of 84 gallons.
6035. Comparative Value of Imperial
Measure and U. 8. Liquid Measure.
Impeiial. Unlti-d MateH. Gall. Qt. Pints. Gills.
1 Gallon = 1.20032 Gallons, or 1 0 1 2.41
1 Quart = 1.20032 Quarts, or 10 1.60
1 Pint = 1.20032 Pints, or 1 0.80
1 Gill = 1.20032 Gills, or 1.20
6036. Imperial Liquid Measure Ex-
pressed in Litres.
1 Hogshead — 2.86234 Hectolitres
1 Barrel = 1.43117 "
1 Gallon = 4.54339 Litres
1 Quart = 1.13585 "
1 Pint = 5.67925 Decilitres
1 Gill = 1.41981 "
6037. Dry or Corn Measure.
Capacity In
Quarter. Bimhels. pecks. GallAns. pinto. Cubic Inches.
1 = 8 = 32 = 64 = 512 = 17,745.536
1= 4= 8= 64= 2,218.192
1 = 2 = 16 = 554.548
1 = 8 = 277.274
1 = 34.659
The above capacities are for struck measure ;
the heaped measures contain nearly J more,
the heaped bushel containing 2815s cubic
inches.
6038. Relative Value of Imperial Dry
% Measure and United States Dry Mea-
tlnitp<l State*. Qr. Bush, peck*. Qts. Pints.
sure.
1 Quarter = 1.03151 Quarters, or 1
1 Bushel = 1.03151 Bushels, or
1 Peck as 1.03151 Pecks, or
1 Gallon =4. 12604 Quarts, or
IPint — 1.03151 Pint, or
0 0.133
1 0.016
0 0.404
4 0.252
1.031
526
6039.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
Relative Value of Imperial Measure and
Apothecaries Measure.
United States Standard
Gal.
Pint.
Fl. Oz.
Fl. Dr.
Minims.
1
Imp.
Gallon
= 1.20032
r. s.
Gallons,
or
1
1
9
5
7.66
1
n
Pint
= 1.20032
a
Pints,
or
1
3
1
38.45
1
u
Fluid Ounce
= .960256
tt
Fluid Ounces,
or
7
40.92
1
11
Fluid Drachm
= .960256
" Fluid Drachms, or
57.62
1
"
Minim
= .960256
"
Minims,
or
.96
6040. Imperial Dry Measure Expressed
in Litres.
1 Quarter = 2.90777 Hectolitres
1 Bushel = 3.63471 Dekalitres
1 Peck = 9.08677 Litres
1 Gallon = 4.54338 "
1 Pint = 5.67922 Decilitres
6041. The English Last is an English
measure of various articles. A last of soap,
ashes, herrings, and some other articles, is 2
barrels. A last of corn is 10 quarters. A last
of gun-powder, 24 barrels. A last of flax or
feathers, 1,700 pounds. A last of wool, 12
sacks.
6042. The Scotch Pint. A Scotch pint
contains 105 cubic inches, and is equal to 4
English pints. 21J Scotch pints make a far-
lot of wheat.
6043. English Wood Measures.
Wood is sold in England by the stack, skid,
quintal, billet, and bundle. A stack is 108
solid feet, and usually piled 12 feet long,
3 feet high, and 3 feet wide. A quintal of
wood is 100 Ibs. A skid is a round bundle of
sticks, 4 feet long. A one-notch skid girts 16
inches. A two-notch skid, 23 inches. A
three-notch skid, 28 inches. A four-notch
skid, 33 inches. A five-notch skid, 38 inches.
A billet of wood is a bundle of sticks 3 feet
long, and girts 7, 10, or 14 inches, and these
bundles sell by the score or hundred. A
score is 20, and comes from the count by
tally, or marks. Faggots of wood are bundles
of brush, 3 feet long, 2 feet round. A load of
faggots is 50 bundles.
6044. English Coinage. English
money is reckoned in pounds, shillings, pence
and farthings thus symboled and relatively
valued.
£.
!.
d.
f«
1
= 20
= 240 =
960
1
= 12 =
48
1
4
The farthing, or fourth part of a penny, is
always written in the form of the fraction of a
penny, one farthing being J penny, 2 farthings
\ penny, <fcc. The standard sovereign is
made of 22 carats pure gold and 2 carats
copper alloy. The coin weighs 123.274 Troy
grains; and the standard value of gold is
£3, 17, 10£ "$ Troy ounce, or £46, 14, 6 38
Troy pound. The half-sovereign, or 10 shil-
ling gold coin is of the same standard, and
half the weight and value of the sovereign.
The standard shilling is composed of 222
parts pure -silver alloyed with 18 parts copper.
The coin weighs 87 ft Troy grains ; and the
standard value is £3, 6, 0 •$) pound troy;
consequently 66 shillings weigh exactly 1
pound Troy. The crown, or 5 shilling piece,
the half-crown, value 2s, 6d, and the six
pence, are of the same standard and relative
weights.
6045. French Weights and Measures.
There are two systems of weights in use in
BI
am. Livre,
= 2 =
Once.
32 =
Gros.
256
Denier.
= 768
1 =
16 =
128
= 384
1 =
8
= 24
1
= 3
1
.8365 Grains
20.0765 *"
60.2296 "
1.1023 Ounces
1.1023 Pounds
2.2046 "
France; the systeme usucl, or .old Binary-
and the more modern Decimal system. The
former is still the most used in buying and
selling, but the decimal system is already em-
ployed for all scientific purposes.
6046. French Binary Weights. These
are more or less in common use in France,
but are gradually being superseded by the
decimal system.
French
Gros. Denier. Grains.
18,432
9,216
576
72
24
6047. French Binary Weights Com-
pared with Avoirdupois Weight. French
Apothecaries weight is the same as the above,
except that the livre contains 12 instead of 16
onces. The old French grain was equivalent
to .820 of a Troy grain, but the new French
grain (of 1812) is equal to .8365228 grains
Troy. This would make the French Binary
weight, as compared with Avoirdupois weight.
Avoirdupois.
1 French Grain =
Denier =
Gros =
Once =
Livre =
Kilogramme =
6048. French Binary Weights Com-
pared with TJ. S. Apothecaries Weight.
Lbs. Oz. Drms. Scruples. Grains.
1 French Livre (16 oz) = 1 401 9.3941
1 " " (12oz) = l 001 2.0456
1 " Once = 100 1.8371
1 " Gros = 10 0.2296
1 " Denier = 1 0.0765
1 " Grain = .8365
6049. Value of French Binary ^eights
in Troy Weight.
Lb. Oz. Dwt. Or.
1 French Livre (16 oz.) =141 5.184
1 " " (12 oz.) =100 21.888
1 " Once = 1 0 1.824
1 « Gros = 2 12.228
1 " Denier = 20.076
1 " Grain = .8365
6050. Value of French Binary Weights
in Grams.
1 French Livre (16 oz.) = 4.9957 Hectograms
1 " " (12 oz.) = 3.7468
1 " Once = 3.1223 Dekagrams
1 " Gros = 3.9028 Grams.
1 " Denier = 1.3009 "
1 " Grain = .0542 "
6051. Old French Linear Measure.
The former measures of length in France
were the
Toise =1.949 metres, or 6.3945 feet
Foot (pied) = .32484 " = 12.785 inches
Inch(pouce)= .02707 " = 1.0654 "
Line (ligne) or ^ inch = .002256 metre
The metre is equal to 3 ft. 11 lines old
French measure.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
527
6052. French. Decimal Weights and
Measures. The French Gramme, litre, metre
aiid are, are precisely the same as in the
American Decimal system. They are founded
on the same standard unit, the metre; and
therefore represent respectively the same
lengths, weights and capacity. The measures
of capacity in France are multiples and divi-
sions of the litre, which is the measure occu-
Sied by a kilogram (15434 Troy grains) of
istilled water at its greatest density. It ex-
ceeds the old Paris pinte by j^, and is equal
to 35 fluid ounces and 103 minims, or 1.7608
Imperial pints, or 61.028 English cubic inches.
4i litres make an Imperial gallon, within
about 12 /3. The following table will show
the relations between the Litre and the Impe-
rial gallon of 277.2738 cubic inches.
Litres.
Cubic Inches.
Gals.
Imperial
Pts. FL? Fl-3 Min.
Tinnr
Millilitre
.061028
16.9
TOTT
Centilitre
.61028
2
49
TV
Decilitre
6.1028
3
4
10.36
1
Litre
61.028
1
15
1
43.69
10
Dekalitre
610.28
2
1
12
1
16.9
100
Hectolitre
6102.8
22
0
1
4
49
1000
Kilolitre
61028.
220
0
16
6
40
10000
Myrialitre
610280.
2201
(or 275i bushels.)
6053. French Money. In France
money is reckoned in francs and centimes.
The centime is the -^ part of a franc, 5 cen-
times being .represented by a sou ; so that 20
sous are equivalent to a franc. The same
system of coinage is also at present in use in
Belgium, Switzerland, and Italy.
6054. Foreign Medicinal Weights.
The following are divided as our Apotheca-
ries' weight : The pound of Austria weighs
6482.42 grains; Bavaria, 5556.24; Holland,
5787.75; Lubec, 5697.09; Nuremberg (German
pound), 5522.96; Poland, 5533.25; Prussia,
5113.99; Sweden, 5498.01; Yenice (sottile),
4649.17.
The division of the following differs in the
scruple being divided into 24 grains : Bologna,
5026.32; Lucca, 5162.67; Modena, 5254.61;
Parma, 5062.35; Portugal, 5312.23; Eome,
5233.25; Spain, 5325.84; Tuscany, 5240.49;
Piedmont (Turin), 5123.49. The Naples
pound contains 5490.63 Troy grains; the ounce
contains 10 drachms ; the scruple 20 grains.
The old Paris pound was divided into 16
ounces ; the scruple into 24 grains. The
pound by which drugs are weighed in Turkey
is the Tchegy, equal to 4957 grains, and is
divided into 100 drachms, each drachm into
16 killos, and each killo into 4 grains.
The obolo is half a Spanish scruple ; 3 sili-
cua make 1 obolo, and 4 grains a silicua.
The commercial pound in several countries
differs from the pharmaceutical. The civil
pound of Bavaria and mark of Yienna are
each about 19J avoirdupois ounces. That of
Holland is the French kilogram, or 12
grains more than 2 pounds 3J ounces avoir-
dupois. The mark is half a kilogram. The
Coburg commercial pound is nearly 18 ounces
avoirdupois.
The unit of the British India system of
weights is the tola, equal to 180 Troy grains.
32 tolas are equal to 1 pound Troy. The
maund is equal to 100 Troy ounces.
6055. Foreign Money, Weights, and Measures, Compared with American.
MONEY.
LENGTH.
LIQUID.
WEIGHT.
Name
Value in
American
Name
of
Length
in
Name
Contents
Name
Ounces
Coin.
Collars,
Gold.
Mea-
sure.
Inches,
English.
Measure.
Inches.
Weight.
Avoird
England
Sovereign
4.80
Foot
12
Gallon
277J
ft, Avoird.
16.
America
Dollar
1.00
Foot
12
Gallon
231
Pound
16.
Austria
Florin
.484
Foot
12.45
Eimer
3452
Pound
19.76
Denmark
Dollar
.53
Foot
12.35
Anker
2355
Pound
17.65
France
Franc
.19
Metre
39.37
Litre
61.028
Kilogran
35.28
Holland
Florin
.40
Foot
11.14
Anker
2331
Pound
35.28
Portugal
Milreis
1.12
Foot
12.96
Almude
1040
Pound
16.19
Prussia
Dollar
.70
Foot
12.36
Ehner
4200
Pound
16.51
Russia
Rouble
.79 k
Foot
12
Yeddras
752
Pound
14.44
Spain
Dollar
1.00
Foot
11.03
Arroba
978
Pound
16.23
Sweden
Foot
12
Eimer
4794
Pound
15.
The rate of exchange varies, but the value of money is taken, reckoning silver at $1.20 per ounce.
6056. Foreign Measures.
The kanna of Sweden = nearly 2.62 litres,
or about 4 pints 12 ounces imperial.
The pott (half kanne) of Denmark = .9653
litre.
The arroba of Spain = 16.073 litres.
The alrnude of Portugal = 16.451 litres.
The barile of Naples = 43.6216 litres ; of
Rome, 58.5416 litres ; of Tuscany, 45.584 litres.
The wedro of Russia (10 stof or 30 Russian
pounds) = 12.29 litres, or 21 pints 12 ounces
124 drachms imperial.
The mass of Wurtemburg = 1.537 litres,
or about 3 pints 14| ounces imperial.
6057. Roman Money. The Romans,
like other ancient nations, at first had no
coined money, but either exchanged commo-
dities with one another, or used a certain
weight of uncoined brass, or other metal.
Hence the names which indicated certain
528 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
pieces of money, \vhen coin came to be used, i was divided into 12 parts, TJncise (ounces).
were the same as those which were used to
indicate weights.
6058. Roman Brass Coins. The first
brass coin that was used at Rome was called
As, made in the reign of Servius Tullius ; and
being stamped with the heads of oxen, sheep,
swine, &c., was called pecunia, from pecus.
Hence JE$, brass, is often
./Erarium, for treasury, &c.
ut for money;
some time after-
wards the stamp was changed, and on one
side it bore the figure of Janus ; on the
other the beak of a ship. The As originally
weighed a pound, but was gradually reduced,
and in the first Punic war, Asses were coined
of only 2 ounces in weight; in the second
Punic war, of only 1 ounce ; and in the year
of the city 563, of only half an ounce. The
other brass coins were the Sernissis, the
Triens, the Quadrans or Teruncius, and the
Sextans. The As, in value of our money,
about 1£ cents; the Semissis, half an As;
Triens, one-third; Quadrans, or Teruncius,
one-fourth ; Sextans, one-sixth.
6059. Roman Silver Coins. Silver was
first coined in the year of the city 484, five
years before the first Punic war ; the impres-
sions upon which were usually, on one side,
carriages drawn by two or four beasts, and on
the reverse, the head of Roma, with a helmet.
On some were stamped the figure of Victory.
The coins of silver were the Sestertius, Quin-
arius, Denarius, and Centussis. Sestertius,
marked L.L.S. for libra libra semis, or by
abbreviation H. S., worth 2£ Asses, or, in our
money, 3| cents; Quinarius, marked V, worth
5 Asses, 7 2 cents ; Denarius, marked X, worth
10 Asses, 15J cents ; Centussis, worth 10
Denarii, nearly $1.60.
6060. Roman Gold Coins. Gold coin
was first struck in the year of the city 546, in
the second Punic war, and called Aurens. The
stamps upon it were chiefly the images of the
Emperors. The Aureus, at first, was equal in
value to 25 Denarii, or 100 Sestertii ; or, in our
money, to $3.98. Soon afterwards it was
debased, and under the later Emperors was
worth only $3.70. Accounts were kept in
Sestertii and Sestertia. The Sestertium was
not a coin, but a shorter expression of 1000
Sestertii, or, in our money, about $40. "We
find also mentioned the Libra, containing 12
ounces of silver, worth $15, and the Talentum,
worth about $965. Besides the ordinary
coins, there were various medals struck to
commemorate important events, properly
called Medallions; for what we commonly
term Roman medals were their current money.
6061. Roman Measures of Length.
The Roman measures of length or distance
were feet, cubits, paces, stadia, and miles.
M. Yds. Ft. In.
Foot 0 0 0 12
Cubit 0016
Passus, or Pace 0 0 5 0
Stadium, or Furlong 0 208 3 0
8 Stadia, or 1000 Paces 1 0 0 0
The Roman Acre contained 240 feet in
length, and 120 in breadth, that is, 28,800
square feet.
6062. Roman Weights. The chief
weight among the Romans was the As, or
Libra, a pound, equal in English Troy weight
to 10 ounces 18 dwt. 13 grains; this Libra The Homer or Cor 75
and these Unciee into several weights of lower
denominations.
6063. Roman Measures of Capacity.
The most common measure of capacity was
the Amphora, called also Quadrantal or Cadus,
containing nearly 9 English gallons. They
had also a measure called Congius, equal to $
of an Amphora, or 1£ gallon English; and
another called Sextarius, equal to £ of the
Congius, or about 1A pints.
6064. Roman Division of Time. Rom-
ulus is said to have divided the year into 10
months, beginning with March ; Ntvma added
the other 2 mouths. When Julius Ctesar
became master of the State, he adjusted the
year according to the course of the sun, and
assigned to each month the number of days
which it still contains. This is the famous
Julian Tear, which continues in use to this day
in all Christian countries, without any varia-
tion except that of the old and new style,
occasioned by Pope Gregory, A. D. 1582. The
Romans divided their months into three parts,
by Calends, Nones, and Ides. The 1st day
was called the Calends, the 5th day the Nones,
and the 13th the Ides ; except in March, May,
Jul}', and October, when the Nones fell on
the 7th, and the Ides on the 15th. The custom
of dividing time into weeks was introduced
under the Emperors, being derived from the
Egyptians ; and the days of the week were
named from the planets, viz. : Dies Solis, Sun-
day ; Lunse, Monday ; Martis, Tuesday ; Mer-
curii, Wednesday; Jovis, Thursday; V.eneris,
Friday; Saturui, Saturday. In marking the
days, they counted backwards; thus they
called the last-day of December, Pridie Calen-
das Januarii, or the day before the Calends of
January; the 30th day they called the third
day before the Calends of January ; and so on
through the year. In leap-year the 24th and
25th days of February were both called the 6th
day before the Calends of March, and hence
this year is called Bissextilis. The day, as
with us, was divided into 12 hours, and lasted
from six o'clock in the morning till six in the
evening. The night was divided into four
watches, each consisting of three hours. The
Romans had no clocks or watches, and the
first dial is said to have been erected in Rome
so late as 447 years after the building of the
city.
6065. Scriptural Measure of Length.
M.
A Finger 0
A Hand breadth 0
A Span 0
A Cubit 0
A Fathom 0
Ezekiel's reed .0
Do. according to others 0
The Measuring Line... 0
A Stadium or Furlong. 0
Yds.
0
0
0
0
2
3
3
48
243
A Sabbath-day's Journey 1216
In. B.C.
0 2^
3 li
10 2i
9 2i
•H
0
11
11
6
0
0
0
The Eastern Mile 1 672
A Day's Journey 33 288
6066. Scriptural Liquid Measure.
Gals. Qts. Pts.
The Log 0
The Firkin or Metretes 0
TheHin 1
The Bath... 7
0}
li
0
0*
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
529
6067.
Scriptural Dry Measure.
Bush. Pks. Pts.
The Cab 0 0 2f
The Omer 0 0 5
The Seah 0 1 1
The Ephah 0 3 3i
The Lethech 4 0 0£
The Homer 8 0 li
6068. Scriptural Weights.
Lbs. Oz. Dwta. Gr.
A Shekel 0 0 9 2£
A Maneh 2 3 6 10
A Talent 113 10 1 10
6069. Scriptural Money.
$ Cts.
A Gerah 2
A Zuzah 12
A Bekah 25
A Shekel (Silver) 50
Goldeu Daric, or Dram 5 18
A Shekel of Gold 9 00
A Maueh or Mina 29 50
A Talent of Silver 1,707 00
ATalent of Gold 27,320 00
6070. Jewish. Method of Beckoning
Time. The day, reckoning from sunrise,
aud the night, reckoning from sunset, were
each divided into 12 equal parts, called the
1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, &c., hours. The first
watch was from sunset to the third hour of
the night. The second, or middle watch, was
from the third hour to the sixth. The third
watch, or cock-crowing, was from the sixth
hour to the ninth. The fourth, or morning
watch, was from the ninth hour of the night
to sunrise.
6071. Russian Money. In Russia,
money is calculated in Roubles and Kopeks,
the silver Rouble consisting of 100 Kopeks,
and equivalent to about 79£ cents of our
money.
6072. Russian Weights. The Russian
pound is 6317£ grains, or the weight of 25.019
cubic inches of water. The Pood, about 36
pounds, 13 ounces avoirdupois.
6073. Russian Lineal Measure. The
Russian foot is the same as the American.
1 Werst 500 Sashens
1 Sashen = 3 Arsheens
1 Arsheen = 2£ Feet
6074. Russian Measures of Capacity.
The Chetwert is equivalent to 5 bushels 6£
gallons imperial. The Tschetwerick, 5$ im-
perial gallons. 10 Tschetwericki make 1 Kuhl
or Sark.
The Wedro consists of 3| wine gallons, and
40 Wcjdroja make 1 Fass.
6075. Austrian Money is reckoned in
Florins and Kreutzers ; the Florin being
equivalent to about 48£ cents American.
20 Kreutzers = 1 Zwanziger
60 " =1 Florin
2 Florins = 1 Thaler
1 Ducat = 4| Florins
6076. Austrian Weights. The Aus-
trian pound is rather less than 14 pounds avoir-
dupois.
1 Sanne = 275 Pounds
1 Pound = 4Vindlinge
1 Vindlinge = 4 Unzen
1 Unze = 2 Loth
6077. Austrian Lineal Measure. The
Austrian foot measures 12£ inches ; the Nult
is equivalent to 4$ miles.
6078. Austrian Measures of Capaci-
ty. The Mutlt is 50| imperial bushels.
1 Muth = 30 Metz
1 Metz = 64 Moasel
The liquid Mass or Kanne is about 24 im-
perial pints, or 1.415 litres.
6079. Roman Money. This was reckoned
in Paoli and Bajoclii, the latter being about
equal to 1 cent American.
1 Scudo = 10 Paoli
1 Paolo = 10 Bajochi
6080. Prussian Money. The Prus-
sians count their money in Thaler s, Silber-
groschen and Pfennings.
1 Thaler = 30 Silbergroschen
1 Silbergroschen = 12 Pfennings.
The Friedrich d'or is equal to 5 Thalers 20
Silbergroschen.
6081. Prussian Weights. The Prus-
sian pound is 16i ounces avoirdupois.
. 1 Cwt. k = 110 Pounds
1 Shipping last = 400 Pounds
6082. Prussian Lineal Measure. The
Prussian foot is 12J inches English.
1 Ruthe = 12 Feet
1 Foot = 12 Inches
1 Inch = 12 Linien
1 Faden = 6 Feet
1 Mile 4| Miles English
6083. Prussian Measures of Capacity.
The Scheffel is equal to 1& bushels.
1 Wispel = 24 Scheffel
1 Scheffel = 16 Metz
The Prussian liquid quart is equivalent to
1.145 litres, or nearly 2i pints American.
6084. Money of the Netherlands is
reckoned in Guilders and Cents, the guilder
(or silver florin) being about 41 cents of our
money. The Ducat is equivalent to 5.55
guilders, and the Stuiver to 5 cents.
6085. Weights Used in the Nether-
lands. The pound is 1 pound If ounces
avoirdupois.
1 Pound = 10 Lood
1 Lood = 10 Wigtj
1 Wigtj = 10 Korrels
6086. Lineal Measure of the Nether-
lands. The ell is the same as the metre of
America.
IRoede = 10 Ells
1 Ell = fa Palm
1 Palm = 10 Duim
1 Duim = 10 Streep
1 Myl = 1000 Ells or £ mile English
6087. Dry Measure of the Nether-
lands. The Mudde contains a little more
than 2f bushels imperial.
1 Last =
1 Mudde =
1 Schepel —
1 Kop
6088.
lands,
gallons.
1 Yat = 100 Kann
1 Kann = 10 Maajtes
1 Maajte = 10 Vingerh
6089. Portuguese Money. In Portu-
gal, money is reckoned in Reis. For the
value of the coins see No. 6055
1 Yintem = 20 Reis
1 Crusado = 400 "
IMilrei = 1000 "
1 Conto de reis = 1000 Milreis
30 Mudden
10 Schepel
10 Kop
10 Maajtes
Liquid Measure of the Nether-
The Vat contains 22 ^ imperial
53O
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6090. Dutch Weights and Measures.
The following are the points in which Hol-
land differs from the rest of the Netherlands.
Dutch. English.
.1 Foot =11| Inches
1 Corn last =10 qrs. 5± "Winchester Bushels
1 Aam =41 Imperial gallons
1 Hoed = 5 Chaldrons
1 Freight last=4000 Pounds.
1 Ballast last =2000 Pounds
6091. Spanish Money. The Dollar of
Spain contains 20 Reals, and is about the same
value as the American. The coins used in
different parts of Spain are various; al-
most every Province having a different system
of coinage.
6092. Spanish Weights. The Castil-
ian Marco, is 7 ounces 3.16 dwts. Troy.
1 Marca , = 8 Onzas
1 Onza = 8 Ochaves
1 Ochave = 72 Granos
The quintal is equivalent to lOlf pounds
avoirdupois.
1 Quintal = 4 Arrobas
1 Arroba = 25 Libras
1 Quintal Macho = 6 Arrobas
Precious stones are weighed by the ounce
of 431 k Troy grains.
1 Ounce = 140 Quilates
1 Quilate = 4 Granos
6093. Spanish Lineal Measure. The
Pie equals 11£ inches, and the Legua 4J En-
glish miles.
1 Estado 2 Yaras
1 Tara = 3 Pies
6094. Spanish Dry Measure. The
Fanega is 12£ imperial gallons.
1 Cahiz = 12 Fanegas
1 Fanega = 12 Almudes
1 Almude = 4 Cuartillos
6095. Spanish Liquid Measure. The
Cantaro or Arroba Mayor contains 3 gallons
3f pints imperial ; the Arroba Menor for oil
is 2 gallons 5i pints imperial.
1 Cantaro = 8 Azumbres
1 Azumbra = 4 Cuartillos
1 Moyo = 16 Cantaros
IPipa = 27 "
1 Bota = 30 "
6096. Swedish Money. The Riksdaler
"banco is worth about 40 cents of our money,
and is divided into 48 skillings.
6097. Swedish Weights. The Skal
pound is 15 ounces avoirdupois. The Schip
pound is equivalent to 400 skal pounds. The
Mark, used in weighing gold, consists of 6
oz. 16 dwt. Troy.
6098. Swedish Lineal Measure. The
Swedish Foot is the same as ours.
1 Faam = 3 Alnar
lAlnar = 2 Feet
1 Foot = 2f Verthum
6099. Swedish Dry Measure. The
Tonn is equivalent to 4 imperial bushels.
1 Tonn = 8 Quarts
1 Quart = 4 Kappar
1 " = 7 Cans
1 Can = 8 Quarrtiers
6100. Swedish Liquid Measure. The
Fuder contains 2 pipes.
1 Fuder = 4 Oxhoofte
1 Oxhoofte = 3 Eimer
1 Eimer = 60 Stop
6101. Swiss Money is reckoned in
Francs, the franc being subdivided into 10
Batzen. The value of the franc is about 27
cents. This is the old system. (See No. 6053.)
6102. Swiss Weights.
1 Hundred-weight = 50 Kilogrammes
1 Kilogramme = 2 Pounds.
The hundred-weight is equivalent to 110J
)ounds avoirdupois ; the pound is therefore
ibout 17J ounces avoirdupois.
6103. Swiss Lineal Measure. The
Helvetian foot is equal to 11£5 inches En-
ish.
1 Stab' or Staff = 2 Ells
1 Ell =2 Feet
16,000 Feet = 1 Hour or Mile
The Swiss mile is consequently a trifle over
3 English miles.
6104. Swiss Dry Measure. The Mat-
ter is about 4 bushels 1 gallon Imperial mea-
sure.
1 Malter = 10 Viertel
1 Yiertel = 10 Immir
6105. Swiss Liquid Measure. The
Swiss Ohm contains 33 Imperial gallons.
1 Ohm = 100 Maas.
6106. Turkish Money. In Turkey,
money is reckond by the Piaster, 22 of which
are equivalent to $1.00.
1 Sequin = 100 Piasters
1 Piaster = 40 Paras
1 Para = 3 Aspers
1 Piaster (grush) = 100 Aspers.
6107. Turkish Weights. The Turkish
Chequi is 11£ ounces avoirdupois.
1 Cantaro = 44 Ok'as
1 Batman = 6 Okas
1 Oka = 4 Chequi
1 Chequi = 100 Drachmas.
6108. Turkish Lineal Measure. The
Turks use, for measuring length, the large
pik halebi, or 27 fa inches ; and the small pik
andassa of 27 j^ inches.
6109. Turkish Measures of Capacity.
The dry Killoio contains 7£ imperial gallons ;
the Fortin, 4 killows. A killow of rice
should weigh 10 okas. The liquid almud
contains If- imperial gallons.
6110. Chinese Money. The Chinese
Tael is $1.56.
1 Tael = 10 Mace
1 Mace = 10 Candarin
1 Candarin = 10 Cash
6111. Chinese Weights. The Catty is
1J pounds avoirdupois.
1 Pecul = 100 Cattys
1 Catty = 16 Taels
1 Tael = 10 Mazas
1 Maza = 10 Candarins
1 Candarin = 10 Qash.
6112. East Indian Money. In Hindo-
stan, money is reckoned in Rupees, Annas, and
Pice, the Rupee being about 45 cents of our
money.
1 Rupee = 8 Annas
1 Anna = 12 Pice
10,000 Eupees = 1 Lakh
6113. Mexican Money. The Mexican
fold dollar is worth about 96 cents United
tates coin; the Mexican silver dollar is
reckoned equal to the United States gold
dollar.
1 Doubloon = 16 Dollars
1 Dollar = 8 Reals.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
531
6114. Monte- Video Money. The Dol-
lar or Peso Corriente is equal to 80 cents
United States coin.
1 Dollar = 8 Eeales = 100 Centesimos
6115. Brazilian Money. In Brazil,
money is reckoned in Beis, 4000 of which are
equal to £1 sterling, or $4.84 United States
coin.
1 Milreis = 1000 Keis
6116. Brazilian Lineal Measure. The
Brazilian Pe or Foot is the same as the
English foot ; the Palma is equivalent to 9-J
English inches. 10 Palmas equal 1 Braca or
2f English yards. The Braca is also sub-
divided into 2 Varas and 3J Covados. The
Legoa or mile is about 4f English miles.
6117. Brazilian Weights. The weights
in ordinary use are as follows, the Quintal
being equal to 91 3 pounds avoirdupois.
1 Quintal = 4 Arrobas
1 Arroba = 32 Arratels
Gold and silver are weighed by the Marco
of 7 ounces 7f dwts Troy.
1 Marco = 8 Oncas
1 Onca = 8 Oitavas
1 Oitava = 72 Granos
Precious stones are sold by the Quilate,
equal to 4£$ dwts. Troy.
1 Oitava = 3 Escrupulos
1 Escrupulo = 3 Quilates
1 Quilate = 4 Granos
6118. Brazilian Dry Measure. The
Brazilian Mayo is equivalent to 22 i imperial
bushels.
1 Mayo = 15 Fanegas
1 Fanega = 4 Alqueires
6119. Decimal Approximations for Facilitating Calculations.
Lineal feet multiplied by .00019
am
miles.
" yards " .000568
=
>t
Square inches
" feet
.007
.111
=
square feet,
square yards.
" yards
.0002067
=
acres.
Circular inches
.00546
=
square feet.
Cylindrical inches
.0004546
an
cubic feet.
" feet
.02909
=
cubic yards.
Cubic inches
V00058
=
cubic feet.
" feet
it a
.03704
6.2321
I
cubic yards,
imperial gallons.
" inches
.003607
=
it ti
Bushels
.0476
=
cubic yards.
H
1.284
=:
cubic feet.
it
2218.2
—
cubic inches.
Cubic feet
.779
=
bushels.
Cubic inches
.00045
z=
bushels.
Pounds
.009
=
hundredweights.
Pounds
.00045
=
tons
Cylindrical feet
4.895
=
imperial gallons.
" inches
.002832
-tf
it ~ a
Cubic inches
.263
=
pounds of cast iron.
H
.281
=
' wrought do.
It
.283
=
' steel.
tt
.3225
=
copper.
II
.3037
=
brass.
it
.26
—
zinc.
it
.4103
—
lead.
it
.2636
tin.
It
.4908
=
mercury.
Cylindrical inches
.2065
=
cast iron.
.2168
=
wrought iron.
.2223
=
steel.
.2533
=
copper.
.2385
=
brass.
.2042
=
zinc.
.3223
—
lead.
.207
_r=
tin.
.3854
=
mercury.
6120. Memoranda Connected with
"Water. 1 cubic foot of water = 62.4 pounds.
1 cubic inch = .036 pounds. 1 gallon im-
perial = 10 pounds; or = 0.16 cubic feet.
1 cubic foot of water = 6.2321 imperial gal-
lons; or, approximately = 6J gallons. 1
cwt. of water = 1.8 cubic feet = 11.2 gallons.
1 ton of water = 35.9 cubic feet = 224 gal-
lons. Cubic feet of water X .557 = cwt.
approximately. Cubic feet of water x .028
= tons approximately. 1 cubic foot of sea
water = 64.14 pounds. "Weight of sea water
= weight of fresh water X 1.028.
6121. Pressure of the Atmosphere.
In engineering, the common pressure of the
atmosphere, 14.6 pounds to the square inch,
is taken as a standard of that exerted by
other elastic fluids. Thus, steam, or air con-
densed so as to exert a pressure of 30 pounds
to the square inch, is said, in round numbers,
to be of 2 atmospheres ; at 45 pounds to the
inch, 3 atmospheres, <fec.
6122. Memoranda Connected with
Light. Telocity of light 192,000 miles per
second, nearly. Decomposition of light : The
seven prismatic colors of a ray of light are
violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange,
red. Violet is the maximum chemical or
actinic color ; yellow the maximum illumina-
ting color, and red the heat color.
532
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6123. Force of the Wind.
Miles
per
Hour.
Feet
per
Minute.
Feet
per
Second.
Force in
Ibs. per
Sq. Foot
Description.
1
88
1.47
.005
Hardly perceptible.
2
3
176
264
2.93
4.4
.020)
.044 }
Just perceptible.
4
5
352
440
5.87
7.33
.079)
.123|
Gentle breeze.
10
15
880
1320
14.67
22.
.492)
1.107 }
Pleasant breeze.
20
25
1760
2200
29.3
36.6
1.970 )
3.067 )
Brisk gale.
30
85
2640
3080
44.
51.3
4.429 )
6.027 )
High wind.
40
45
3520
3960
58.6
66.
7.870)
9.900 (
Very nigh wind.
60
4400
73.3
12.304
Storm.
60
70
5280
6160
88.
102.7
17.733)
24.153}
Great storm.
80
100
7040
8800
117.3
146.6
31.490 )
49.200)
Hurricane.
6124. Velocity of Sound. In air, 1.142
feet per second. In water, 4,900 feet.
Through iron, 17,500 feet. Through copper,
10,378 feet. Through wood, 12,000 to 16,000
feet.
Distant sounds may be heard on a still
day : Human voice, 150 yards. Eifle 5,300
yards. Military band, 5,200 yards. Cannon
35,000 yards.
6125. Heat-conducting Power of
Building Materials. Conducting power of
substances, slate being 1000.
Slate 1000
Lead 5210
Flagstone 1110
Portland stone. . . 750
Chalk 564
Asphaltum 451
Oak 336
Lath and plaster.. 255
Cement..! ..200
Brick 600 to 730
Fire-brick 620
6126. Properties of the Circle. Diam-
eter X 3.14159 = circumference. Diameter
X .8862 = side of an equal square. Diameter
X .7071 = side of an inscribed square. Ka-
dius squared, X 3.14159 = area of circle.
Diameter squared, X .7854 = area of circle.
Eadius X 6.28318 = circumference. Cir-
cumference -H 3.14159 = diameter. Circum-
ference ^3^5^/ar^~~of~circTeT Diameter =
1.128-v/area of circle.
6127. To Determine the Weight of
Live Cattle. Measure in inches the girth
round the breast, just behind the shoulder-
blade, and the length of the back from the
tail to the forepart of the shoulder-blade.
Multiply the girth by the length, and divide
by 144. If the girth is less than 3 feet, mul-
tiply the quotient by 11 ; if between 3 feet
and 5 feet, multiply by 16 ; if between 5 feet
and 7 feet, multiply by 23 ; if between 7 feet
and 9 feet, multiply by 31. If the animal is
lean, deduct ^ from the result. Or: Take
the girth and length in feet, multiply the
square of the girth by the length, and multiply
the product by 3.36. The result will be the
answer in pounds. The live weight, multiplied
by .605, gives a near approximation to the net
weight.
6128. To Measure Corn in the Crib.
Corn is generally put up in cribs made of
rails, but the rule will apply to a crib of any
size or kind. Two cubic feet of good, sound,
dry corn in the ear, will make a bushel of
shelled corn. To get, then, the quantity of
shelled corn in a crib of corn in the ear, mea-
sure the length, breadth, and height of the
crib, inside of the rail; multiply the length
by the breadth, and the product by the height;
then divide the result by 2, and you have the
number of bushels of shelled corn in the crib.
In measuring the height, of course the height
of the corn is intended. And there will be
found to be a difference in measuring com in
this mode between fall and spring, because it
shrinks very much in the winter and spring,
and settles down.
6129. Percentage of Pork to Live
Weight. The following table shows the
proportion of pork to live weight of fat swine :
Live Weight in Per Cent.
Stones of 14 pounds. of Pork.
Above 40 stones 87 to 88
From 35 to 40 stones 84 to 86
" 30 to 35 ' 83 to 84
" 25to30 ' 81to82
" 20to25 ' 80
" 15 to 20 ' 77 to 78
Underl5 ' 75 to 77
6130. Measures for Housekeepers.
"Wheat flour 1 pound is 1 quart.
Indian meal 1
Butter when soft 1
Loaf sugar, broken.. 1
"Whito sugar, powd.. 1
2oz.
1 oz.
2oz.
Best brown sugar. . . 1
Eggs ............... 10 eggs are 1 pound.
Flour ............... 8 quarts" 1 peck.
Flour ........... ---- 4 pecks " 1 bushel.
16 large table-spoonfuls are ............ £ pint.
8 large table-spoonfuls are .......... ... 1 gill.
4 large table-spoonfuls are ........... .' . i gill.
2 gills are ........................... £ pint.
2 pints are ......................... 1 quart.
4 quarts are ....................... 1 gallon.
A common sized tumbler holds ........ £ pint.
A common sized wine-glass ............ i gill.
25 drops are equal to ......... 1 tea-spoonful.
6131. Sizes of Drawing Paper.
"Wove Antique .................. 52
Uncle Sam ..................... 48
Double Elephant ................ 40
Emperor ....................... 40
X31 in.
x 120 in.
X26
X60
X26
n.
in.
in.
in.
in.
Atlas ........................... 32
Colombier ....................... 33£ X 23
Elephant ....................... 27
Imperial ........................ 29 X21J in.
Super Royol .................... 27 Xl9 in.
Koyal .......................... 24 X19 in.
Medium ........................ 22 Xl8 in.
Demy ........................... 19 Xl5i in.
Cap ............................ 13 X16 in.
6132. Barometrical Rules for Prog-
nosticating the Weather. I. After a
continuance of dry weather, if the barometer
begins to fall slowly and steadily, rain will
certainly ensue; but if the fine weather has
been of long duration, the mercury may fall
for 2 or 3 days before any perceptible change
takes place, and the longer time that elapses
before rain comes, the longer the wet weather
is likely to last.
II. Conversely, if, after a great deal of
wet weather, with the barometer below its
mean height, the mercury begins to rise stead-
ily and slowly, fine weather will come, though
2 or 3 wet days may first elapse ; and the fine
weather will be the more permanent, in pro-
portion to the length of time that passes
before the perceptible change takes place.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
533
III. On either of the two foregoing suppo-
sitions, if the change immediately ensues on
the motion of the mercury, the change will
not be permanent.
IV. If the barometer rises slowly and
steadily for two days together, or more, fine
weather will come, though for those two days
it may rain incessantly, and the reverse ; but
if the barometer rises for two days or more
during rain, and then, on the appearance oi
fine weather, begins to fall again, the fine
weather will be very transient, and vice
versa.
V. A sudden fall of the barometer in
spring or autumn indicates wind; in summer,
during very hot weather, a thunder-storm
may be expected; in winter, a sudden fall
after frost of some continuance indicates a
change of wind with thaw and rain; but in a
continued frost a rise of the mercury indicates
approaching snow.
VI. No rapid fluctuations of the barometer
are to be interpreted as indicating either dry
or wet weather of any continuance ; it is only
the slow, steady, and continued rise or fall,
that is to be attended to in this respect.
VII. A rise of the mercury late in the
autumn, after a long continuance of wet and
windy weather, generally indicates a change
of wind to the northern quarters, and the ap-
proach of frost.
6133. Melting or Boiling Point of Met-
als, Liquids, &c.
D"gree»
Fahr.
3080° Platinum melts.
2786 Cast iron melts ; 2696° (Morveau).
2500 Steel melts.
2016 Gold melts (Daniell); 2200° (Kane).
1996 Copper melts (Kane); 2548° (Daniell).
1873 Silver melts (Makins) ; 2233° (Daniell).
1869 Brass melts (Daniell).
1000 Iron, bright cherry red (Poillet).
980 Iron, red heat (Daniell).
914 Zinc burns (Daniell).
810 Antimony melts.
773 Zinc melts (Daniell); 793° (Gmelin).
644 Mercury boils (Daniell); 662°( Graham).
630 Whale oil boils (Graham).
612 Lead melts (Crighton); 609° (Daniell).
600 Linseed oil boils.
560 Sulphur ignites.
545 Sulphuric acid boils (Phillips); 620°
(Graham).
476 Bismuth inelts(PMZ(ps);518°( Gmelin).
442 Tin melts.
380 Arsenious acid volatilizes.
372 Saturated solution of nitrate of ammo-
nia boils.
356 Metallic arsenic sublimes.
336 Saturated solution of acetate of potassa
boils.
320 Cane sugar melts, 320° to 400°, baking
heat of an oven.
315 Oil of turpentine boils (Kane).
304 Saturated solution of nitrate of lime
boils.
302 Etherification ends.
275 Saturated solution of carbonate of pot-
ash boils.
256 Saturated solution of acetate of soda
boils.
248 Nitric acid, specific gravity 1.42, boils.
238 Saturated solution of nitre boils.
236° Saturated solution of sal-ammoniac
boils.
226 Sulphur melts (Fowncs) ; 232° ( Turner).
220 Saturated solution of alum, carbonate
of soda, and sulphate of zinc boils.
218 Saturated solution of chloride of po-
tassa boils.
216 Saturated solution of sulphate of iron,
sulphate of copper, and nitrate of
lead boils.
213 Water begins to boil in glass (or 213£°).
212 Water boils in metal, barometer at 30
inches.
199 Milk boils.
194 Sodium melts.
185 Nitric acid, specific gravity 1.52, boils.
180 Starch dissolves in water.
176 Rectified spirit boils. Benzole distills.
173 Alcohol, specific gravity 796 to 800,
boils.
151 Bees'- wax melts (Kane); 142° (Le-
page).
150 Scalding heat. Pyroxylic spirit boils
(Scanlan).
145 Albumen coagulates.
140 Chloroform and ammonia, specific grav-
ity .945, boils.
136 Potassium melts (Daniell).
132 Acetone (pyroacetic spirit) boils (.Kane).
130 Butter melts (130° to 140°).
122 Mutton suet and styracine melts.
120 Phosphorus inflames. Friction matches
ignite.
116 Bisulphuret of carbon boils (Graham).
112 Spermaceti and stearine melt.
Ill Beef tallow melts.
110 Highest temperature of the human
body (in lockjaw).
106 Mutton tallow melts.
99 Phosphorus melts (99° to 100°).
98 Ether, specific gravity .720, boils.
Blood heat.
88 Acetous fermentation ceases. "Water
boils in a vacuum.
81 Mean temperature at the equator.
77 Vinous fermentation ends ; acetous
begins.
67 Lowest temperature of the human
body (in cholera).
65 Best temperature of a room (65° to 68).
62 Oil of anise liquefies ; congeals at 60°.
60 Mean temperature at Rome.
50^Mean temperature at London.
42 Sulphuric acid, specific gravity 1.741,
congeals (41° to 42°).
41 Mean temperature of Edinburgh.
36 Olive oil freezes.
32 Water freezes.
30 Milk freezes.
28 Vinegar freezes.
20 Strong wine freezes.
— 4 Mixture of snow and salt.
— 7 Brandy freezes.
—39 Mercury freezes (30° to 40°). (See also
Nos. 7,3353, 3459 and 1687, <f-c).
6134. Weight of Earth, Bocks, &c.
A cubic yard of sand or ground weighs about
30 cwt. Mud, 25 cwt. Marl, 26 cwt. Clay,
31 cwt. Chalk, 36 cwt. Sandstone, 39 cwt.
Shale, 40 cwt. Quartz, 41 cwt. Granite, 42
cwt. Trap, 42 cwt. Slate, 43 cwt.
To find the weight of a cubic foot of any of
he above, divide the weight of a cubic yard
534:
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASUEES, ETC.
by 27. Thus, a cubic foot of sand weighs
f ?, or 1^ cwt., equivalent to about 124 pounds.
6135. Weight of Various Minerals.
One cubic foot of water weighs at a tempera-
ture of 60° Fahrenheit, 62| pounds avoirdu-
pois. By ascertaining the specific gravity of
a substance and multiplying with 62i pounds,
the exact weight of one cubic foot is obtained.
Pounds
Avoirdupois.
Cubic foot
Bp. Or. Weighs.
Anthracite coal 1.5 94
Antimonial copper, tetrahedrite,
or grey copper 5.0 300
Antimonial silver 9.5 600
Antimony ore, grey sulphuret- . 4.5 279
Antimony rrtetal 6.5 400
Apatite, or phosphate of lime. . 3.0 186
Arsenical iron pyrites, mis-
pickel 6.0 370
Asbestos 3.0 186
Asphaltum, mineral pitch 1.0 62
Baryta sulphate 4.5 310
Baryta carbonate, witherhite. .. 4.0 248
Bismuth 9.7 600
Bituminous coal 1.5 90
Black lead, graphite 2.0 125
Black jack blende, sulphuret of
zinc 4.0 250
Bog iron ore 4.0 250
Brown haematite 4.0 250
Building stones, comprising
granite, gneiss, syenite, &c. .. 3.0 186
Calamine 3.3 190
Chromic iron 4.5 260
Copper pyrites 4.0 260
Derbyshire spar, fluor spar 3.0 186
Feldspar 3.0 190
Flint 2.5 110
Loose sand — 95
Franklinite 5.0 310
Galena 7.5 465
Gold (20 carats) 15.7 ) 1000
" (pure) 19.2$tol200
Gypsum 2.3 130
Iron — cast iron — 450
" magnetic ore 5.0 310
spathic ore.. 3.0 200
" pyrites 5.0 310
pyrrhotine, or magnetic
pyrites 4.5 280
specular ore 4.5 290
wrought — 487
Limestone, hydraulic 2.7 150
" magnesian 2.5 130
Manganese, binoxide of. 4.8 294
Malachite... 4.0 248
Mica.. 2.8 160
Novaculite, or whetstone 3.0 186
Ochre .- 3.5 217
Platinum, metal and ores 16 to 19 1116
Porcelain clay 2.0 140
Pyrites, iron 4.5 280
Quartz, pure, compact 2.6 155
" loose, angular, and round
sand — 100
Trap 3.0 186
Vitreous copper, copper glance. 5.5 341
"Wood tin, stream tin 7.0 434
Zinc, sulphide or blende 4.0 250
Zincite, red zinc ore 5.5 331
Zinc carbonate 4.4 268
Zinc silicate 3.4 200
(Feuchtwanger).
6136. Table of the Belative Hardness
and Weight of the Principal Precious
Stones, &c.
„ . , Hard- Specific
Substances. ness> G£vity.
Diamond from Ormus 20 3.7
" (pink) 19 3.4
(bluish) 19 3.3
" (yellowish) 19 3.3
" (cubic) 18 . 3.2
Ruby 17 4.2
" (pale, from Brazil) 16 3.5
Sapphire 16 3.8
Topaz 15 4.2
" (whitish) 14 3.5
" (Bohemian) 11 2.8
Ruby (spinelle) 13 3.4
Emerald 12 2.8
Garnet 12 4.4
Agate j 12 2.6
Onyx 12 2.6
Sardonyx 12 2.6
Amethyst (occidental) 11 2.7
Crystal 11 2.6
Cornelian 11 2.7
Jasper (green) 11 2.7
" (reddish yellow) 9 2.6
Schoerl 10 3.6
Tourmaline 10 3.0
Quartz 10 2.7
Opal 10 2.6
Chrysolite 10 3.7
Zeolite 8 2.1
Fluor 7 3.5
Calcareous spar 6 2.7
Gypsum 5 2.3 '
Chalk 3 2.7
Glass 2.3 : 3.62
" (plate) 2.5:2.6
" (crystal or flint) 3.0 : 3.616
6137. Weight of Hemp and Wire Hope.
HEMP.
IBON WIEE.
STEEL WIBE .
Cir-
cumfer-
ence.
Lbs.
Weight
per
Fathom
Cir-
cumfer-
ence.
Lbs.
Weight
per
Fathom.
Cir-
cumfer-
ence.
Lbs.
Weight
per
Fathom
2*
2
1
1
—
—
li
li
1
1
Si i 4
If
2
—
—
— i —
If
2i
li
U
41 i 5
If
3
—
—
— — .
2
3i
If
2
£} 7
ft
4
u
2|
— ' — .
at
4|
—
6 9
if
5
li
3
— ! —
ei
54
—
6j ! 10
2f
6
2
3i
—
—
2f
6i
24
4
7
12
21
7
si
4i
—
—
3
• 7i
—
7i
14
3*
8
2|
5
—
—
sf
81
—
—
8
16
3|
9
Si
5i
—
—
*!
10
2f
6
8k
18
3f
11
91
6*
—
—
34
12
—
9i
22
3|
13
3i
8
10
26
4
14
—
—
—
4t
15
3f
9
11
30
4|
16
—
—
—
*j
18
3i
10
12
34
4|
20
34
12
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
535
6138. Miscellaneous Statistics.
TIMBER.
SpecificGravity
Weight in Ibs.
per
Cubic Foot.
Tenacity in Ibs.
per
Square Inch.
Crushing Force
in Ibs. per
Square Inch.
Ash
.8
.69
.71
.48
.7
.6
.75
.55
.6
.8
.93
.87
.65
.45
.65
.8
.9
.98
.94
1.8
.8
.74
.90
1.000
1.028
50
43
44
30
44
37
47
34
37
50
58
54
41
28
41
50
56
61
59
112
50
46
56
62.4
64.1
17.200
11.000
15.000
11.000
12.000
13.000
20.000
9.000
16.000
17.000
10.000
12.000
11.000
15.000
8.000
Boiling Point.
173°
100
212
213
9.000
9.000
5.500
5.600
6.000
10.000
7.000
5.500
8.000
10.000
6.000
5.800
5.100
12.000
Expansion.*
.11
.07
.08
.047
Beech.
Birch
Cedar. . .
Deal, Christiana
Elm
Hornbeam. . . .
Larch
Memel
Mahogany, Spanish. .
Oak, English
Oak, Canadian . . .
Pine, red . ......
Pine, yellow
Teak, Moulmein .
Tew
MISCELLANEOUS.
Asphaltum . .
Gutta-percha . ..
India-rubber .
Ivory
FLUIDS.
Alcohol
Ether
Oil
"Water, fresh
"Water, sea.
OASES.
Water
1.
Comparative Weight
(Air being 1.)
Weight of
Cubic Foot
in Grains.
Air
.0012
.0018
.0005
.00008
.00125
1.000
1.524
.420
.069
1.103
527
800
220
43
627-
Carbonic acid
Carburetted hydrogen
Hydrogen . .. ..
Oxygen
* Expansion of fluids is calculated between 32° and 212° Fahrenheit.
6139. Weight of Copper and Lead.
Weight of a Square Foot of Copper and Lead
in pounds, from ^ to i inch in thickness.
Thickness.
Copper.
Lead.
&
1.45
1.85
A
2.90
3.70
A
4.35
5.54
5.80
7.39
n
7.26
9.24
ft
8.71
11.08
A
10.16
12.93
11.61
14.77
A
13.07
16.62
A
14.52
18.47
B
15.97
20.31
I
17.41
22.16
it
18.87
24.00
^
20.32
25.85
H
21.77
27.70
1
23.22
29.55
6140. Weight of Cast-Iron Plates.
Weight of Cast-Iron Plates, 12 inches square.
Thickness. Weight.
•| inch.. 4 Ibs. 13f oz.
J " ..9 " lOfr "
f " ..14 " 8 "
i " ..19 " 5f "
Thickness. Weight,
f inch. 24 Ibs. 2foz.
f " .29 " 0 "
f " -33 " 13f "
1 " .38 " lOf "
6141. Weighl
Weight of a Square .
pounds avoirdupois,
number on the wire
an inch ; No. 4, £ ; .
Wire Gauge. Avoir.
1 12.5
2 12.
; of Sheet Iron.
Toot of Sheet Iron in
the thickness being the
gauge. No 1 is -fg of
Vo. 11, i, <fc.
No. on pound*
Wire Gauge. Arolr.
12 4.62
13 431
3 11.
14 4
4 10.
15 3.95
5 9.
16 3
6 .^. 8.
17 -25
7 7.5
18 318
8 7.
19 1 93
9 6.
20 1 62
10 5.68
21 .. 15
11 5.
22 1 37
6142. Weight
Weight of a Square
from % to 1 inch
Thickness. Weight.
•J-inch 5 pounds,
ft ---7.5
i ....10
ft ..12.5
| ....15
A -17.5
I ....20
ft ..22.5
of Boiler Iron.
Foot of Boiler Iron,
thick, in pounds.
Thickness. Weight
f inch 25 pounds.
H --27.5
i ....30
it -.32.5
1 ....35
If ..37.5
1 ....40
536
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6143. Properties of Metals.
MET ALB.
Weight of »
Cubic Inch
in I,l>«.
Specific
Gravity.
Weight of a
Cubic Foot
In I.bs.
Tenacity
in Lbs. per
Square Inch.
Crushing
Km,-,; in I.bs
per Bq.Inch.
Melting
point.
Ftthr.
Expansion
between
32" & 212°
Con-
ducting
power.
Specific
Heat.
Aluminum
.092
.242
.35
.3
.32
.7
.3
.28
.26
.41
.49
.38
.282
.263
.253
2.56
6.7
9.82
8.4
8.5
8.89
8.95
9.
19.25
8.4
7.7
7.6
7.18
11.35
13.56
10.47
7.8
7.78
7.29
7.
160
418
605
525
531
555
559
562
1203
525
481
475
448
709
847
654
487
485
455
437
1,066
3,250
17,978
49,000
19,072
33,000
61,000
20,400
36,000
60,000
70,000
85,000
19,000
1,824
3.328
41,000
120,000
80,000
5,000
8,000
10,300
11,700
38,000
92,000
7,000
15,000
*1800°
810°
497°
1869°
1996°
2016°
2786°
612°
—39°
1873°
2500°
442°
773°
.0011
.0014
.002
.0017
.0016
.0012
.0011
.0028
.016
.0019
.0011
.0021
.0029
898
1000
347
180
973
304
363
.0507
.0288
.0949
.0298
.1100
.0293
.0330
.0557
.0514
.0927
Antimony, cast. .
Bismuth.. ....
Brass, cast
" wire.
Copper, cast -
" sheet
" wire
Gold
Gun-metal
Iron, wrought bar
" Swedish
" wire
« cast
Lead, cast.
" sheet
Mercury
Silver
Steel
" puddled
Tin
Zinc..
* Approximate; no well-authenticated experiments on Aluminum.
6144. "Weight of Bound and Square
Shafts of Wrought Iron, 1 Foot Long.
Size in
Inches.
Weight in Lbs.
Size in
Inches.
Weight in Lb«.
Bound.
Square.
Hound.
Square.
|
.042
.053
4|
59.7
76.0
\
.166
.211
5
66.2
84.3
I
.372
.474
5f
72.9
92.9
ft
.662
.843
B|
80.1
102
f
1.03
1.32
5f
87.5
111
i
1.49
1.90
6
95.3
121
i
2.03
2.58
6i
103
132
i
2.65
3.37
61
112
142
if
3.35
4.27
6|
121
154
H
4.14
5.27
7
130
165
it
5.00
6.37
7i
139
177
H
5 97
7.58
7f
149
190
if
7.00
8.90
7f
159
203
li
8.11
10.3
8
169
216
i*
9.31
11.8
8*
180
229
2
10.6
13.5
8}
191
244
2i
11.9
15.2
8f
203
258
2i
13.4
17.1
9
214
273
2|
14.9
19.0
»
227
288
si
16.5
21.1
j4
239
304
»
18.2
23.2
9f
252
320
24
20.0
25.5
10
265
337
p
21.9
27.9
10^
292
372
3
23.8
30.3
11
320
408
3±
28.0
35.6
il*
350
448
3}
32.4
41.3
12
381
486
5|
37.2
47.4
134
414
527
4
42.4
54.0
13
447
570
4*
47.8
60.9
13|
483
614
s
53.6
68.2
14
519
661
and by 3.36 ; the product "will be the weight
in pounds avoirdupois, nearly.
Square, Angled, T, Convex, or any figure
of Beam Iron. — Ascertain the area of the end
of each figure of bar, in inches, then multiply
the area by the length in feet, and that pro-
duct by 10, and divide by three ; the remain-
der will be the weight in pounds, nearly.
Square Cast Steel. — Multiply the area of
the end of the bar in inches, by the length in
feet, and that product by 3.4; the product
will be the weight in pounds, nearly.
Bound Cast Steel. — Multiply the square of
the diameter in inches, by the length in feet,
and that product by 2.67; the product will
give the weight in pounds avoirdupois, nearly.
6146. Number of Nails per Pound.
The following table shows the length of the
various sizes of nails and the number of each
in a pound :
6145. Weights of Wrought-Iron and
Steel.
Round Iron. — Multiply the square of the
diameter in inches, by the length in feet, and
by 2.63, and the product will be the weight
in pounds avoirdupois, nearly.
Square Iron. — Multiply the area of the
end of the bar in inches, by the length in feet,
Size.
Length.
Nuir/oer.
3-penny,
1 inch long,
557 per pound.
4
H
353
5
H
232
6
2
167
7
2i
141
8
21
101
10
21
98
12
3
54
20
Si
34
Spil
es
4
16
1
«
12
i
5
10
1
"6
7
'
7
5
The term "penny," designating the size of
nails, appears to mean "pound." Ten-penny
nails weighing 10 pounds per thousand, four-
penny nails 4 pounds per thousand, &c.
(Webster.) This is probably the weight the
nails were originally made ; according to the
foregoing table they have since learned econ-
omy in the material.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
537
6147. Calendar for Ascertaining on what Day of the "Week any Given Day
will Fall within the Present Century.
YEARS 1801
TO 1900.
c
e
H
j |
1
I
I
3
1
1
-w
&
CC
i
II
O
J CN
CO
CO
CO
55
s
CO
CO
CO CO
1801
1807
1818
1829
1835
1846
1857
1863
1874
1885
1891 4
I 7
7
3
5
1
3
6
2
4
7 2
1802
1813
1819
1830
1841
1847
1858
1869
1875
1886
1897 £
3
5
1 3
1803
1814
1825
1831
1842
1853
1859
1870
1881
1887
1898 (
2
2
5
7
3
5
1
4
6
2 4
1805
1811
1822
1833
1839
1850
1861
1867
1878
1889
1895 5
5
5
1
3
0
1
4
7
2
5 7
1806
1817
1823
1834
1845
1851
1862
1873
1879
1890
|
6
6
2
4
7
2
5
1
3
6 1
1809
1815
1826
1837
1843
1854
1865
1871
1882
1893
1899 '
r 3
3
6
1
4
6
2
5
7
3 5
1S10
1821
1827
1838
1849
1855
1866
1877
1883
1894
1900 3
4
4
7
2
5
7
3
6
1
4 6
To ascertain any day of the week in any
year of the present century, first look in
the table of years for the year required,
and under the months are figures which
refer to the corresponding figures at the
head of the columns of days below.
For Example : To find what day of the
week January 1 will be in the year 1873,
look in the table of years for 1873, and in
a parallel line under January is figure 3,
which directs to column 3, in which it will
be seen that January 1 will fall on Wed-
nesday.
LEAP-YEARS.
1804
1832
1860
1888 '
r 3
4
7
2
5
7
3
6
1
4 6
1808
1836
1864
1892 (
> i
2
5
7
3
5
1
4
6
2 4
1812
1840
1868
1896 I
i 6
7
3
5
1
3
6
2
4
7 2
1816
1844
1872
]
I 4
5
1
3
6
1
4
7
2
5 7
1820
1848
1876
(
> 2
3
6
1
4
6
2
5
7
3 5
1824
1852
1880
^
t 7
1
4
6
2
4
7
3
5
1 3
1828
1856
1884
i
! 5
6
2
4
7
2
5
1
3
6 1
1
2
3
4
5
6
r
Mon 1
Tues 2
Wed 3
Thur 4
Fri.. B
Tu
We
Th
Fn
Sat
Su
Mn
BS
d
ur
1
2
3
4
5
G
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
•fl
X
F
S
S
IV
T
"W
T
F
S
S
1
'ed...
hur ..
ri...
. 1
. 2
3
Thur 1
Fri 2
Fri 1
Sat 2
Sa
Si
K
Ti
W
Tl
F)
Sa
t
1
Su
Mr
Q 1
in
n 2
Sat 3
Sun 3
Mon 4
Tues 5
Wed 6
Thur . 7
on
les
ed
IUT ....
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
18
14
t
Tu
We
Th
Fn
Sal
Su
Me
Tu
We
Th
Fri
Sat
Su
es 3
d 4
ur . ... 5
6
it....
. 4
5
Sun 4
Mon 5
Tues 6
Wed 7
Sat.
Sun.
.. .. 6
7
i
n
[on. ..
. 6
7
7
Mon
Tues
Wed
Thui
Fri..
£
1
Tu
We
Th
Fri
Sat
Sui
Mn
es
d
ur
red. . .
hur . .
. 8
. 9
10
Thur 8
Fri 9
Fri 8
t
a 8
9
10
Sat 9
in
n 9
es 10
d 11
ur 12
13
Sat 10
Siin.. . . 11
Sun 10
Mon ... 11
M
Ti
W
Tl
Fl
Sa
Si
M
Ti
W
Tl
Fl
Sa
Si
M
Ti
W
Tl
Fi
Sa
Si
M
on
les
ed
mr
11
i;
1
it
12
Mon H
Tues 12
Wed 13
Thur 14
Fri 15
Sat..
H
i
13
Tues 13
Wed 14
Thur 15
Fri 16
Sat 17
Sun
...14
n
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
21)
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
T
^
T
F
S
S
M
T
•«
T
F
S
S
1
T
V
T
F
ues . . .
red...
tiur. . .
ri
..14
.15
.16
.17
14
Mon 1J
Tues 1<
Wed lf
Thur li
Fri 1!
r
t
»
»
\
Tu
We
Th
Fn
Sat
Sui
Mo
Tu
We
Th
Fri
Sat
Sui
Mo
Tu
We
Th
es
d
ur
t
a 15
Sat 16
Sun 17
in
on
les
ed
lur
1 .
10
17
18
19
20
Jl
22
23
24
25
2G
27
28
29
30
31
Me
Tu
We
Th
Fn
Sal
Su
Me
Tu
We
Th
Fri
Sal
Su
Me
Tu
n 16
es 17
d 18
UT....19
20
it .
18
Sun 18
Mon 18
Tues 19
Wed 20
Thur.... 21
Fri 22
Sat 23
Sun 24
Mon 25
Tues 26
Wed 27
in . . . .
19
Mon 19
Tues 20
Wed 21
Thur ....22
Fri 23
Sat..
Sun
2(
...21
i
n
es
d
ur
i
n
98
d
ar
[on . . .
.20
ues...
fed...
hur. .
..21
.22
.23
21
Mon 22
Tues 2;
Wed 24
Thur 2£
Fri 2t
Sat ¥
Sun 2?
Mon 2J
Tues 3£
Wed..:.. 3]
t
a 22
n 23
es 74
d 25
ur 26
27
28
in
on
ies
ed
HIT ....
•i
t
ri . . . .
it
an. .. .
on. . .
.24
. 25
.26
.27
Sat 24
Sun 25
Mon 26
Tues 27
ues...
red...
hur . .
.28
.29
.30
Wed..... 28
Thur.. ..29
Fri 30
Thur 28
Fri 29
Sat 30
a 29
n 30
es 31
in
on
ri . . . .
.31
Sat 31
Sun 31
6148. Proportions of a Beautiful
Body. The height should be exactly equal
to the distance between the tips of the middle
fingers of either hand when the arms are fully
extended. Ten times the length of the hand,
or seven and a half times the length of the
foot, or five times the diameter of the chest
from ;,ne armpit to the other, should also each
give the height of the whole body. The dis-
tance from the junction of the thighs to the
ground should be the same as from that point
to the crown of the head. The knee should
be precisely midway between the same point
and the bottom of the heel. The distance
from the elbow to the tip of the middle finger
should be the same as from the elbow to the
middle line of the breast. From the top of
the head to the level of the chin should be
the same as from the level of the chin to that
of the armpits, and from the heel to the toe.
538 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC,
6149. Loss Sustained by Different Substances in Drying.
Grains.
Dried at
Lose Grains.
100
100
100
100
100
100
100
100
Gallic Acid
Sulphate of Quinine
Arseniate of Soda
Alum
Carbonate of Soda
Phosphate of Soda
Sulphate of Soda
Carbonate of Potassa
212°
212°
300°
400°
Dull Kedness
u
u
it
9.5
14.4
40.38
47.
63.
63.
56.
16.
Grains.
Dried at
Leave Grains.
29
10
100
50
50
Oxide of Silver
Oxalate of Ceerium
Oxalate of Iron
Tartrate of Iron
Carbonate of Magnesia
Redness
it
i<
it
a
27 Metallic Silver
4.8 Oxide with Peroxide
27 Peroxide of Iron
15 Sesquioxide of Iron
22 Magnesia
6150. Table of Symbols and Equiva-
lents of Metallic Elements. The specific
gravity of the following are given at water
standard. The equivalents are multiples. of
iydrogen, which is adopted as the basis, or 1.
Symbol.
Equivalent.
Sp. Or.
U. 8. DU.
Ure.
Al
Sb
As
Ba
Bi
B
Cd
Ca
Ce
Or
Co
Ta
Cffl
Cu
D
E
G
Au
11
In
Ir
Fe
La
Pb
L
Mg
Mn
Hg
M
Ni
Nb
No
Os
Pd
Pe
Pt
K
Ro
Rb
Ru
Si
Ag
Na
Sr
Te
Tb
Tl
Th
Sn
Ti
W
U
V
Y
Zn
Zr
13.70
122.00
75.00
68.70
210.00
10.90
55.80
20.00
46.00
26.30
29.50
185.00
31.70
47.50
56.30
7.00
199.00
60.20
74.00
98.80
28.00
44.30
103.60
7.00
12.00
27.70
200.00
48.00
29.50
94.00
99.70
53.30
98.90
39.20
52.20
85.40
52.20
21.30
108.00
23.30
43.80
64.00
204.00
59.60
59.00
25.00
92.00
60.00
51.?0
30.85
32.30
33.60
13.67
129.00
75.00
68.50
213.00
11.00
56.00
20.00
46.00
26.27
29.50
123.00
32.00
48.00
6.97
98.33
98.56
28.00
104.00
7.00
12.00
26.00
200.00
48.00
29.50
99.41
53.24
99.00
39.00
52.16
85.00
52.11
21.00
108.0(
23.00
44.00
64.08
59.50
59.00
24.12
92.00
60.00
68.46
32.52
33.58
2.56
6 70
5.67
4.70
9.80
2.68
8.63
1.58
5.90
8.53
8.72
19.4
18.63
7.84
11.30
.59
1.75
8.00
13.50
8.60
8.63
10.00
11.50
21.50
.86
11.20
8.60
10.43
.97
2.54
6.30
7.29
5.28
17.20
10.15
6.91
Antimony (Stibium)
Arsenic
Barium
Bismuth
Boron
Cobalt
3olumbium (Tantalium)
Glucinium
Gold (Aurum)
Ilmenium
Indium
Iridium
Iron (Ferrum)
Lantanium
Magnesium
Hercury (Hydrargyrum)
Molybdenum
Nickel
Niobium
Norium
Palladium
Pelopium
Platinum
Potassium (Kalium)
Rhodium
Rubidium
Ruthenium
Silicon
Silver (Argentum)
Sodium (Natrium)
Strontium
Tellurium
Terbium
Thallium
Thorium
Tin (Stannum)
Titanium
Tungsten (Wolfram)
Uranium
Yttrium
Zinc
Zirconium
6151. Table of Symbols and Equiva-
lents of MTon-Metaflic Elements. The
specific gravity of these are given in their
gaseous form, air being the standard or 1.000.
The equivalents are multiples of hydrogen
which is adopted as the basis or 1.
Symbol.
Equivalent.
Specific
Gravity.
U. S. Dis.
Ure.
Bromine
Br
78.4
80.0
5.4110
Carbon
C
6.0
6.0
.8290
Chlorine
Cl
35.5
35.5
2.4530
Fluorine
Fl
18.7
19.0
1.3270
Hydrogen
H
1.0
1.0
.0692
Iodine
1
126.3
127.0
•8.7827
Nitrogen
F
14.0
14.0
.9713
Oxygen
0
8.0
8.0
1.1056
Phosphorus
P
32.0
32.0
4.2840
Selenium
Se
40.0
40.0
7.6960
Sulphur.
S
16.0
16.0
2.2140
6152. To Reduce Parts by Volume
or Measure to Parts by Weight. Multi-
ply the parts by volume or measure by the
specific gravity of the different substances ;
the result will be parts by weight.
6153. To Find the Length of the Day
or Night. To find the length of any day,
double the time of sunset. Double the hour
of sunrise will be the length of the night.
6154. To Reduce a Liquid to a Given
Density. It has been already stated in No.
52 that the actual weight of any substance
may be found by weighing an exactly equal
bulk of water, and multiplying the weight
found by the specific gravity of the substance ;
the product is the actual weight. To sim-
plify this, suppose that a liquid has a specific
gravity of 1.325 ; also that a certain bulk of
water (say any 1 measure) weighs 100 grains;
then a similar bulk (1 measure) of the sub-
stance would weigh 100X1.335 = 132.5 grains.
Now, supposing we wish to reduce the weight
of this liquid, so that 1 measure of it shall
weigh only 115.5 grains (that is, shall have a
specific gravity of 1.155), how much water,
whose specific gravity is 1.000, must be added
to it to produce this result ?
From the nature of the proposition, it fol-
lows that the bulk of the substance (1) mul-
tiplied by its specific gravity (1.325), added
to the bulk of added (unknown) water multi-
plied by its specific gravity (1.000), must be
equal to the aggregate bulk of the substance
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
539
and of the water combined, multiplied by its
required specific gravity (1.155).
Putting the above words into shape, and
assuming x to be the required bulk or quantity
of water
(1X1.325) -fOxl.OOO) = (14*0X1.155
or 1.325 -f l.OOOx — 1.155+1.155a;
by subtracting 1.155 and 1.000 a? from each
side we have
.170 = .155a;
in other words the required
bulk of water, a? = :|W = 1.097
If, as supposed above, the measure assumed
was such that it weighed 100 grains of water,
we should have to add 109^ grains of water
to 1 measure of the substance to produce a
mixture of specific gravity 1.155.
6155. Gay Lussac's Light Areometer
Reduced to Specific Gravity. This in-
strument ranges from 0° to 50°, 0° corre-
sponding with water at 59° Fahr.
6157. Gay Lussac's Alcoholmeter
Reduced to Specific Gravity. This instru-
ment exhibits the percentage of alcohol by
volume in different alcoholic mixtures at 59°
Tahr.
Degree.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Degree.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
0°
1.0000
.0095
30°
.7692
.0057
5
.9524
.0087
35
.7407
.0053
10
.9090
.0079
40
.7143
.0049
15
.8696
.0073
45
.6897
.0044
20
.8333
.0067
50
.6667
25
.8000
.0062
This table gives the specific gravity corre-
sponding to every 5 degrees of the scale. To
find the specific gravity of intermediate
degrees, the average difference between each
degree is given in the third column, each
given difference referring to the four degrees
following the degree opposite which the dif-
ference is placed. Thus : To find the specific
gravity corresponding with 33 degrees of the
scale, look in the table for the specific gravity
of the nearest lower degree given, in this
instance 30°; and we find .7692; 33° is 3°
more than 30°, hence we must deduct 3
times the given difference (.0057), or .0171;
this last deducted from .7692 = .7521, which
is the approximate specific gravity corre-
sponding to 33° of the scale.
The intermediate degrees of other areome-
ters may be determined in a similar manner.
The corresponding degrees of different areo-
meters may also be found by a comparison
with their respective specific gravities; allow-
ance being made for difference of temperature.
Information showing the practical use ol
some of the areometers will be found in iSTos
58 to 68.
6156. Gay Lussac's Heavy Areometer
Reduced to Specific Gravity. This areo-
meter ranges from 0° to 50°, 0° representing
water at 59° Fahr.
percent,
of Alcohol
by Volume.
Sp. Grav.
Diff.
Per cent,
of Alcohol
by Volume.
Sp. Grav.
Diff.
100
95
90
85
80
75
70
65
.7947
.8168
.8346
.8502
.8645
.8799
.8907
.9027
.0044
.0036
.0031
•0028
.0031
.0022
.0024
.0023
60
55
50
45
40
35
10
0
.9141
.9248
.9348
.9440
.9523
.9595
.9656
1.0000
.0021
.0020
.0018
.0016
.0014
.0002
.0034
The specific gravity of the intermediate
degrees is found as explained in No. 6155, only
,hat the difference must be added instead of
subtracted.
6158. Beck's Heavy Areometer Re-
duced to Specific Gravity. This ranges
rom 0° to 76°, 0° corresponding with water
at 54 k° Fahr.
Degree.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Degree.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
0°
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
1.0000
1.0303
1.0625
1.0968
1.1333
1.1724
1.2143
1.2592
1.3077
.0061
.0064
.0068
.0073
.0078
.0084
.0090
.0097
.0105
45°
50
55
60
65
70
75
76
1.3600
1.4167
1.4782
1.5454
1.6190
1.7000
1.7895
1.8085
.0113
.0123
.0134
.0147
.0162
.0179
The specific gravity of the intermediate
degrees is obtained as shown in No. 6155, the
differences being added instead of subtracted.
6159. Beck's Light Areometer Re-
duced to Specific Gravity. The scale on
this areometer marks from 0° to 70°, 0° rep-
resenting water at 54£° Fahr.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
0°
1.0000
.0057
40°
.8095
.0038
5
.9714
.0054
45
.7907
.0036
10
.9444
.0051
50
.7727
.0034
15
.9189
.0048
55
.7555
.0033
20
.8947
.0046
60
.7391
.0031
25
.8718
.0043
65
.7234
.0030
30
.8500
.0041
70
.7083
35
.8293
.0040
The equivalents of the intermediate degrees
may be found by the method given in No.
6155.
6160. Dutch Light Areometer Re-
duced to Specific Gravity. This areometer
ranges from 0° to 60°, 0° denoting water.
Degree.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Degree.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
0°
5
10
15
20
25
1.0000
1.0526
1.1111
1.1765
1.2500
1.3333
.0105
.0117
.0131
.0147
.0167
.0191
30°
35
40
45
50
1.4286
1.5385
1.6667
1.8182
2.0000
.0220
.0256
.0303
.0363
0°
5
10
15
20
25
30
1.0000
.9664
.9351
.9057
.8780
.8521
.8276
.0067
.0063
.0059
.0055
.0052
.0049
.0046
35°
40
45
50
55
60
.8045
.7826
.7619
.7423
.7236
.7059
.0044
.0041
.0039
.0037
.0035
The specific gravity of the intermediate
degrees is found in the same manner as in No
6155, only that the differences must be adde<
instead of subtracted.
The specific gravity of the intermediate de-
grees may be found in the same manner as
directed in No. 6155.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
61 61 . The Heavy Areometer of Brix.
This instrument is graduated from 0° to 200°,
0° denoting water at 60° Fahr.
Deg.
Sp. Or.
Diff.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
0°
1.0000
.0025
105°
1.3559
.0047
5
1,0127
.0026
110
1.3793
.0048
10
1.0-256
.0027
115
1.4035
.0050
15
1.0390
.0027
120
1.4266
.0052
20
1.0526
.0028
125
1.4545
.0054
25
1.0667
0029
130
1.4815
.0056
30
1.0811
.0029
135
1.5094
.0058
35
1.0058
.0030
140
1.5385
.0060
40
1.1111
.0031
145
1.5686
.0063
45
1.1268
.0032
150
1.6000
.0065
50
1.1429
.0033
155
1.6326
.0068
55
1.1594
.0034
160
1.6667
.0071
60
1.1765
.0035
165
1.7021
.0074
65
1.1940
.0036
170
1.7391
.0077
70
1.2121
.0037
175
1.7777
.0081
75
1.2308
.0038
180
1.8182
.0085
80
1.2500
.0039
185
1.8605
.0089
85
1.2698
.0040
190
1.9047
.0093
90
1.2900
.0042
195
1.9512
.0098
95
1.3115
.0044
200
2.0000
100
1.3333
.0045
The specific gravity of the intermediate de-
grees is obtained as in No. 6155, by adding
the differences instead of subtracting them.
6162. The Light Areometer of Brix.
This areometer is graded from 0° to 200°, 0°
corresponding with water at 60° Fahr.
Degree.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Degree.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
0°
1.0000
.0025
105°
.7921
.0016
5
.9876
.0024
110
.7843
.0015
10
.9756
.0024
115
.7767
.0015
15
.9638
.0023
120
.7692
.0015
20
.9524
.0022
125
.7619
.0014
25
.9412
.0022
130
.7547
.0014
30
.9302
.0021
135
.7477
.0014
35
.9195
.0021
140
.7407
.0014
40
.9091
.0020
145
.7339
.0013
45
.8989
.0020
150
.7273
.0013
50
.8889
.0020
155
.7207
.0013
55
.8791
.0019
160
.7143
.0013
60
.8696
.0019
165
.7080
.0012
65
.8602
.0018
170
.7018
.0012
70
.8511
.0018
175
.6957
.0012
75
.8421
.0018
180
.6897
.0012
80
.8333
.0017
185
.6838
.0012
85
.8247
.0017
190
.6780
.0011
90
.8163
.0016
195
.6723
.0011
95
.8081
.0016
200
.6667
100
.8000
.0016
To obtain the specific gravity of the inter-
mediate degrees see No. 6155.
6163. Dutch Heavy Areometer Re-
duced to Specific Gravity. The range of
this instrument is from 0° to 75°, 0° corre-
sponding with water.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
0°
1.0000
.0072
40°
1.3846
.0140
5
1.0359
.0077
45
1.4545
.0155
10
1.0746
.0083
50
1.5319
.0172
15
1.1163
.0090
55
1.6180
.0193
20
1.1613
.0098
60
1.7143
.0217
25
1.2101
.0106
65
1.8228
.0246
30
1.2631
.0116
70
1.9459
.0282
35
1.3211
.0127
75
2.0869
The specific gravity of the intermediate
degrees is easily obtained by following the
directions laid down in No. 6155, adding the
difference instead of subtracting it.
6164. Twaddel's Areometer Reduced
to Specific Gravity. The range of this
areometer or saccharometer is from 0° to
200°, 0° corresponding with water.
Degrees.
Sp. Grav.
Degrees. .
Sp. Gray.
0°
1.000
105°
1.525
5
1.025
110
1.550
10
1.050
115
1.575
15
1.075
120
1.600
20
1.100
125
1.625
25
1.125
130
1.650
30
1.150
135
1.675
35
1.175
140
1.700
40
1.200
145
1.725
45
1.225
150
1.750
50
1.250
155
1.775
55
1.275
160
1.800
60
1.300
165
1.825
65
1.325
170
1.850
70
1.350
175
1.875
75
1.375
180
1.900
80
1.400
185
1.925
85
1.425
190
1.950
90
1.450
195
1.975
95
1.475
200
2.000
100
1.500
In the above table the difference between
the degrees is .005, throughout ; the specific
gravity of the intermediate degrees. can be
found by following the method given in No.
6155, adding instead of deducting the differ-
ence. (See No. 68.)
6165. Baum6's Heavy Areometer.
This instrument marks from 0° to 75°, 0°
being water at 63|° Fahr.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
0°
1.0000
.0071
40°
1.3746
.0135
5
1.0353
.0076
45
1.4421
.0149
10
1.0731
.0081
50
1.5166
.0165
15
1.1138
.0088
55
1.5992
.0184
20
1.1578
.0095
60
1.6914
.0207
25
1.2053
.0103
65
1.7948
.0234
30
1.2569
.0112
70
1.9117
.0266
35
1.3131
.0123
75
2.0448
The specific gravity of the intermediate de-
grees can be obtained as directed in No. 6155,
adding the difference instead of subtracting.
A ready method of calculating the specific
gravity corresponding to the degrees of this
areometer, sufficiently correct for common
purposes, will be found in No. 66 ; the table
given in No. 65 is made on that principle,
and based on 1000 as • the unit representing
water, instead of 1.
6166. Baume's Light Areometer.
This areometer ranges from 10° to 60°, 10°
denoting water at 54 \G Fahr.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
Deg.
Sp. Gr.
Diff.
10°
15
20
25
30
35
1.0000
.9669
.9358
.9067
.8794
.8537
.00(56
.0062
.0058
.0055
.0051
.0049
40°
45
50
55
60
.8294
.8065
.7848
.7642
.7447
.0046
.0043
.0041
.0039
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54=1
The specific gravity of the intermediate de-
grees is found by following the directions
given in ifo. 6155. A simple method for
converting the degrees of this areometer into
specific gravity, applicable in cases where
great accuracy is not required, is given in
No. 66. A table, similar to the above, will
be found in No. 62, sufficiently accurate for
general practical purposes.
Miscellaneous Receipts.
These consist mainly of such receipts
as could not be properly included in any
division of the work ; embracing also a few
additional general receipts, whose merits de-
manded their insertion, obtained too late for
classification under their proper headings.
6168. To Prepare Skeleton Leaves.
The object in view is to destroy what may be
called the fleshy part of the leaf, as well as
the skin, leaving only the ribs or veins. The
most successful, and probably the simplest
way to do this, is to soak the leaves in rain-
water till they are decomposed. For this
purpose, when the leaves are collected, they
should bo placed in an earthenware pan or a
wooden tub, kept covered with rain-water,
and allowed to stand in the sun. In about 2
weeks time they should be examined, and if
found pulpy and decaying, will be ready for
skeletonizing, for which process some cards, a
camel's-hair brush, as well as one rather
stiff (a tooth-brush, for instance), will be
required. When all is prepared, gently float
a leaf onto a card, and with the soft brush
carefully remove the skin. Have ready a
basin of clean water, and when the skin of
one side is completely removed, reverse the
card in the water, and slip it under the leaf,
so that the other side is uppermost. Brush
this to remove the skin, when the fleshy part
will most likely come with it ; but if not, it
will readily wash out in the water. If parti-
cle.-! of the green-colored matter still adhere
to the skeleton, endeavor to remove them
with the soft brush ; but if that is of no
avail, the hard one must be used. Great care
will be necessary to avoid breaking the skele-
ton, and the hard brush should only be used
in a perpendicular direction (a sort of gentle
tapping), as any horizontal motion or brush-
ing action will infallibly break the skeleton.
Never attempt to touch the leaves or the
skeleton in this state with the fingers, as when
they are soft their own weight will often break
them. Well-grown leaves should always be
chosen, and be thoroughly examined for flaws
before soaking. Leaves containing much
tannin cannot be skeletonized by this process,
bat are generally placed in a box with a num-
ber of caddis worms, which eat away the
fleshy parts, when the skeletons can be
bleached by the method given in the next
receipt. Holly leaves must be placed in a
separate vessel, on account of their spines,
which would be apt to damage other leaves ;
they make beautiful skeletons, and are safli-
cientlv strong to be moved with the fingers.
(See No. 6170.)
6169. To Bleach Skeleton Leaves.
A good way of bleaching skeleton leaves is
to prepare a solution of chloride of lime,
which must be allowed to settle, and the
clear liquid poured into a basin, in which the
skeletons may be put by floating them off the
card. It is as well to have half a dozen
ready to bleach at once, as they require watch-
ing, and if allowed to remain in the liquid too
long will fall to pieces. From 2 to 4 hours
will generally suffice to bleach the skeleton of
all ordinary leaves, after which they should
be washed in several changes of water, and
finally left in clean water for ^ hour. After the
leaf has been sufficiently washed it should be
floated onto a card and dried as quickly as
possible, care being taken to arrange the
skeleton perfectly flat, and as near as possible
to the natural shape. This can be done with
the assistance of the soft brush. When dry
the skeleton should be perfectly white, and
may be mounted on dark backgrounds, as
black velvet or paper. (See No. 6171.)
6170. Quick Method of Preparing
Skeleton Leaves. A solution of caustic
soda is to be made by dissolving 3 ounces
washing soda in 2 pints boiling water, and
adding 1J ounces quicklime previously slack-
ed ; boil for 10 minutes, decant the clear solu-
tion, and bring it to the boil. During ebulli-
tion add the leaves ; boil briskly for about au
hour, occasionally adding hot water to supply
the place of that lost by evaporation. Take
out a leaf, put it into a vessel of water, and
rub it between the fingers under the water.
If the skin and pulpy matter separate easily,
the rest of the leaves may be removed from
the solution, and treated in the same way;
but if not, then the boiling must be continued
for some time longer. (See No. 6168.)
6171. To Bleach Skeleton Leaves.
To bleach the skeleton leaves, mix about 1
drachm chloride of lime with 1 pint water,
adding sufficient acetic acid to liberate the
chlorine. Steep the leaves in this until they
are whitened (about 10 minutes), taking care
not to let them stay in too long, as they are
apt to become brittle. Put them into clean
water, and float them out on pieces of paper.
Lastly, remove them from the paper before
they are quite dry, and place them in a book
or botanical press. They look best when
mounted on black velvet or paper. (See No.
6169.)
6172. To Stain Dried Grass. There
are few prettier ornaments, and none more
economical and lasting, than bouquets of
dried grasses, mingled with the various un-
changeable flowers. They have but one
fault ; and that is, the want of other colors
besides yellow and drab or brown. To vary
their shade, artificially, these flowers are
sometimes dyed green. This, however, is in
bad taste, and unnatural. The best effect is
produced by blending rose and red tints, to-
gether with a very little pale blue, with the
grasses and flowers, as they drv naturally.
The best means of dyeing dried leaves, flow-
ers, and grasses, is to dip them into the spirit-
uous liquid solution of the various compounds
of analine. (See Nos. 2552, $c.) Some of
these have a beautiful rose shade ; others red,
blue, orange, and purple. The depth of color
can be regulated by diluting, if necessary, the
original dyes, with spirit, down to the shade
desired. When taken out of the dye they
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
should be exposed to the air to dry off the
spirit. They then require arranging, or set-
ting into form, as, when wet, the petals and
fine filaments have a tendency to cling to-
f ether. A pink saucer, as sold by most
ruggists, will supply enough rose dye for
two ordinary bouquets. The pink saucer
yields the best rose dye by washing it off
with water and lemon juice. The analine
dyes yield the best violet, mauve, and purple
colors.
6173. Artificial Coral. Melt together
yellow resin, 4 parts ; vermilion, 1 part. This
gives a very pretty effect to glass, twigs,
raisin stalks, cinders, stones, <fcc., dipped into
the mixture and dried.
6174. To Copy Ferns. Dip them well
in common porter, and then lay them fiat
between white sheets of paper, with slight
pressure, and let them dry out.
6175. To Preserve Natural Flowers.
Dip the flowers in melted parafline, withdraw-
ing them quickly. The liquid should be only
just hot enough to maintain its fluidity, and
the flowers should be dipped one at a time,
held by the stalks and moved about for an
instant to get rid of air bubbles. Fresh-cut
flowers, free from moisture, make excellent
specimens in this way.
6176. To Collect and Preserve Speci-
mens of Plants. To form what is called the
liortus siccus, or herbarium, various methods
are employed, but the following is recom-
mended as the most simple. The articles re-
quisite for the purpose consist of a dozen
quires of smooth soft paper of a large size, 6
boards of about an inch in thickness, and 4
iron or lead weights, two of them about 30
pounds, and the two others about half that
weight, and a botanical box of tin, and of such
dimensions as shall be most convenient for the
collector. The plants to be preserved ought,
if possible, to be gathered in dry weather ;
but if the weather be wet they should be laid
out for some time on a table till partially
dried, and when the roots are taken up along
with the stems, they must be washed and then
exposed to the air for the same purpose.
6177. To Preserve Plants. Lay over
one of the boards two or three sheets of the
paper described in the last receipt. On the
uppermost sheet spread out the specimen to
bo preserved, unfolding its parts so as to give
it as natural an appearance as possible, laying
out the leaves aud flowers with particular
care. Over the specimen thus disposed of
place several sheets of paper ; on the upper-
most sheet spread out another specimen, and
so proceed till all the plants intended to be
preserved are laid down ; and having put over
the whole some more sheets of paper, place a
board over them with the weights upon it,
which may be a number of clean bricks, if
iron or lead weights cannot conveniently bo
procured. As some plants are delicate and
flexible, and others comparatively thick and
hard, the former class will require less weight
tu be placed over them, and the latter con-
siderably more.
6178. To Preserve the Color and
Shape of Plants when Drying. To pre-
serve the color of flowers when drying, the
greatest care is required in changing the
papers every second day, which papers oughj;
first to be well dried at the fire. T\7ith regard
to keeping the shape of flowers, the utmost
care and attention is necessary when arrang-
ing them on the paper ; this can be done by
having another piece <tf paper and gently lay-
ing it on part of the flower ; the part of the
flower so covered with the paper ought to
have a small book placed on it. Then begin
and lay out the other leaves of the flower,
and also press it, and so on, until each part
has had the gentle pressure necessary to keep
it in position. Let them remain so for a short
time, and then put some heavy weight on
them ; look at them next day, and change the
damp paper. Ferns may be kept for years
quite fresh in color by this simple mode of
drying. In 3 or 4 days the plants thus treated
should be taken out, together with the paper
in which they have been deposited, and laid
in fresh paper with 3 or 4 sheets between
every 2 plants, and the board aud weights laid
upon them as before. This process must be
continued till the plants are perfectly dried.
Each specimen is then to be placed on a sheet
of dry paper, along with a memorandum of
the name of the plant, the place and time at
which it was gathered, the character of the
soil from which it was taken, and any other
particulars tending to illustrate its character
and history.
6179. "To Mount Small Insects for
the Microscope. Mounting small insects
for the microscope, such as parasites and acari
from birds, beetles, <tc., may be performed by
placing the live insect on the inside of a sheet
of tolerable good note paper, folded, and when
in the act of running, closing the paper and
pressing it tightly in a book. By this means
the legs and antennae may be nicely extended,
all the expressed moisture absorbed by the
paper, and the skin left apparently unbroken.
It should be allowed to remain in the book
about 2 days, when it may be carefully re-
moved from the paper, put in a turpentine
bath, and afterwards mounted in balsam in
the usual way. (See Xo. 6180.)
6180. To Mount Microscopic Ob-
jects in Canada Balsam. "Warm the glass
slips, <fec., to a temperature just below the
boiling heat of water. If there is any doubt
of the balsam penetratiDg all the interstices
and readily adhering to the specimens, it will
be well to pour a few drops of clear turpen-
tine upon the specimens, which will greatly
facilitate the taking of the balsam ; the lat-
ter, howeVer, must not be used until the tur-
pentine has nearly evaporated. The moment
when the balsam is to be added with the best
effect can only be known by experience.
Clear old Canada balsam is the best suited for
these purposes. "When used it must also be
heated to a temperature just below boiling
water, and then poured upon the object, pre-
viously arranged upon a slip of glass. The
top slip of glass, which is usually smaller and
thinner than the under one, is now to be placed
upon it ; one end of each slip being brought
into contact first, and then the other al-
lowed to fall upon it. By this means no air-
bubbles will be enclosed. The exact quantity
of balsam must be learned by practice. Of
two faults, namely, too much or too little, the
former is to be preferred. Be careful not to
press the glasses together too hard, otherwise,
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54:3
on the removal of the pressure, the air will
enter between the glasses, and the preparation
will be spoilt. Having thus mounted the ob-
ject, it must be slowly dried in a warm situa-
tion. This will take 1 or 2 days ; after which
the slide is to be cleaned by scraping off the
surplus balsam with a strip of plate glass.
Finally, wipe it clean, using first a linen rag
moistened with turpentine, and then a piece
of dry clean leather.
6181. Marvels of tlie Microscope. A
beautiful and easily produced exhibition of
crystal formation may be seen under the
microscope as follows : Upon a slip of glass,
place a drop of liquid chloride of gold or ni-
trate of silver, with a particle of zinc in the
gold and copper in the silver. A growth of
exquisite gold or silver ferns will vegetate
under the observer's delighted eye.
6182. To Prepare a Skeleton. After
cutting off as much flesh and cartilage from
the bones as possible, boil them in water till
the remainder easily separates. The French
still further prepare their skeletons by bleach-
ing for a short time in a weak solution of
chloride of lime.
6183. Phial Barometer. Take a com-
mon phial and cut off the rim and part of the
neck with a file. This may also be effected
by means of a piece of cord passed round it,
and moved rapidly to and fro, in a sawing
direction ; the one end being held in the left
hand and the other fastened to any convenient
object, while the righthand holds and moves the
phial ; when heated, dip it suddenly into cold
water, and the part will crack off. (See Nos.
2368, ^-c.) Then nearly fill the phial with
clean water, place your finger on the mouth,
and invert it ; withdraw your finger, and sus-
pend it in this position with a piece of wire or
twine. In dry weather the under surface of
the water will be level with the neck of the
bottle, or even concave ; in damp weather, on
the contrary, a drop will appear at the mouth
and continue until it falls, and is then followed
by another in the same way.
6184. The Chemical Barometer, or
Storm Glass. Take a long narrow bottle,
such as an old-fashioned eau-de-Cologne bot-
tle, and put into it 2i drachms of camphor
and 11 drachms of spirit of wine ; when the
camphor is dissolved, which it will readily do
by slight agitation, add the following mixture:
Take water, 9 drachms; nitrate of potassa
(saltpetre), 38 grains ; and muriate of ammo-
nia (sal ammoniac), 38 grains. Dissolve these
salts in the water before mixing with the
camphorated spirit; then shake the whole
well together. Cork the bottle well, and wax
the top, but afterwards make a very small
aperture in the cork with a red-hot needle.
The bottle may then be hung up, or placed in
any stationary position. By observing the
different appearances which the materials as-
sume as the weather changes, it becomes an
excellent prognosticator of a coming storm or
of a sunny sky.
6185. To Teach a Parrot to Speak.
The quickest way is to send the bird, if possi-
ble, where there is another parrot who can
speak. They should be placed near enough to
hear, but not see each other, and the one will
soon imitate the other. A good way is to
speak to the bird at night ; just when his cage
has been covered over (which must always be
done with a woolen rug in winter) repeat over
several times in the same tone the sentence
you wish him to learn. He may not appear
to notice at first, but some day, quite unex-
pectedly, he will repeat the sentence exactly
in the same tone that he has heard it. He
should at once be rewarded with a bit of
sugar, or fruit, or any little dainty that he is
fond of. They are very quick at understand-
ing that rewards are given for obedience.
Never allow a parrot to be startled or teased,
or permit it to be fed indiscriminately by
visitors. Keep the cage extremely clean ; let
it be wiped out and fresh sand given every
day. Some birds drink very little, but they
should always be able to get a drink of fresh-
water if they wish. It is also a good plan to
let a small quantity of canary sect} be in the
seed-can ; it is possible that the morning
bread and milk may be forgotten, and the
seed will thus prevent the bird being starved.
6186. Etching Shells. This is done
by means of acid. The parts not to be acted
upon must be protected by a so-called etch-
ing-ground, which consists of a thin layer of
varnish blackened in a flame so as to see
plainly the figures afterward drawn on it. Be
careful, when doing this, to make a clear draw-
ing or writing in which the shell is exposed
at the bottom of every line, as any remaining
varnish would protect those parts, and the
writing would not be brought out. The
acid, either strong acetic, diluted nitric, or
muriatic, is then applied, and when its action
is sufficient it is washed off with water, the
varnish is rubbed off with turpentine or alco-
hol, when the drawing or lettering will ap-
pear, and look as if cut in with an engraver's
tool. The design may also be drawn with
varnish on the shell by means of a fine brush,
then the acid will dissolve the surface around
the lines drawn, and the writing will appear
in relief, the letters being elevated in place of
being sunk in as by the former process. The
latter is the more common way in which these
shells are treated. This method is applied to
many other objects ; all that is wanted being
a liquid dissolving the material to be acted
upon, and a varnish to protect some parts
from its action.
6187. To Clean Shells. Make lye by
boiling strong ashes, allow it to settle ; pour
the lye over the shells, and boil them 6 or 7
hours, or longer if they are large ; then soak,
and wash often in fresh water.
6188. To Color Shells. Dissolve a little
lac dye in a solution of chloride of tin ; and
having made the shells thoroughly clean, dip
them in this preparation until they are of tho
desired color. The dye should be first boiled,
and then allowed to stand to settle.
6189. To Keep Gold-Fish. Gold-fish
must bo kept in a vessel of sufficient capacity,
and be given fresh water every day, or at
least every other day. It is best to clean the
vessel then, by washing it inside with a cloth.
The fresh water ought to be clean, and not
too hard. It is not good to feed them, as tho
food will only serve to render the water unfit
for their existence, and if renewed every day,
the water itself furnishes them with enough
material for their sustenance. Fish kept in
this way generally perish from want of oxy-
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
gen. Anything, therefore, -which consumes it
ought to be avoided, and this is a reason for
not giving them any food. Green leaves of
living plants have an opposite effect, and they
may be kept for this purpose in fish-bowls ;
they absorb the carbonic acid in the water ex-
haled by the fish, giving off oxygen, which is
in turn taken up by the fish and reconverted
into carbonic acid.
6190. Food for Mocking-Birds. Mix
together 2 parts corn-meal, 2 parts pea-meal,
and 1 part moss-meal ; add a little melted
lard, but not sufficient to make the mixture
too greasy, and sweeten with molasses. Fry
in a frying-pan for k hour, stirring constantly,
and taking care not to let it burn ; this makes
it keep well. Put it in a covered jar. The
moss-meal is prepared by drying and grinding
the imported German moss-seed.
6191. German Paste for Feeding
Singing-Birds. Blanched sweet almonds, 1
pound; pea-meal, 2 pounds; butter, Bounces;
saffron, a few grains ; honey, a sufficient quan-
tity. Form the whole into a paste, and gran-
ulate it by pressing it through a cullender.
Some add the yolks of 2 eggs.
6192. How to See Under Water.
The Indians of North America do this by cut-
ting a hole through the ice, and then covering
or hanging a blanket, in such a manner as to
darken or exclude the direct rays of the sun,
when they are enabled to see into the water,
and discover fish at any reasonable depth.
Let any one who is anxious to prove this,
place himself under the blanket, and he will
be astonished when he beholds with what a
brilliancy everything in the fluid world is
lighted up. A correspondent of the Scientific
American says : " I once had occasion to
examine the bottom of a mill pond, for which
I constructed a float out of inch boards, suffi-
cient to buoy me up ; through the centre of
this float I cut a hole, and placed a blanket
over it, when I was enabled to clearly dis-
cover objects on the bottom, and several lost
tools were discovered and picked up. I am
satisfied that, where water is sufficiently
clear, this latter plan could be successfully
used for searching for lost bodies and arti-
cles."
6193. 19 Prepare Soap for Bubbles.
Dissolve castile soap in strong alcohol ; let it
settle, or filter, and take the clear solution,
from which evaporate the alcohol. The solid
residue is oleate of soda. To this add half
its weight of glycerine and sufficient water to
give the proper consistency. The beauty of
the experiments will compensate for all the
trouble.
6194. To Produce Large and Long-
lasting Soap-Bubbles. For the produc-
tion ol unusually large soap-bubbles that
will last for hours, and exhibit splendidly the
beautiful colors of the rainbow, a fluid may
be employed that can easily be prepared in
the following way ; Fine shavings of palm-
oil soap are shaken in a large bottle with dis-
tilled water, until a concentrated solution of
the soap is obtained ; this is filtered through
gray filtering paper, and then mixed with
about one-third its bulk of pure glycerine.
The fluid is to be shaken up before use. By
means of a small glass funnel, of two inches
diameter, connected with a tube of india-rub-
ber, soap-bubbles may be prepared with this
fluid, that will vie in beauty of color with the
rainbow itself, and which may be kept for a
long while by putting them carefully upon an
iron ring which is slightly rusty and thorough-
ly wet with the soap solution. Bubbles of
1 foot and more in diameter will keep from 5
to 10 minutes ; those of 2 or 3 inches in diam-
eter will retain their form for 10 or 12 hours.
6195. To Transfer Ornaments for
Carriages, Wagons, &c. This beautiful
art is now practiced by many painters, for
the sake of economy of time and labor. De-
calcornine pictures expressly designed for car-
riages are now sold at the leading stationers'
stores, and the amateur painter is enabled
thereby to finish a job of carriage painting in
fine style. These pictures may be stuck on,
and the dampened paper carefully removed,
leaving the picture iutact upon the panel, re-
quiring no touching with the pencil.
6196. To Apply Decalcomine Pic-
tures. The proper way to put on decalco-
mine pictures is to varnish the picture care-
fully with the prepared varnish (which can
be obtained with the pictures), with an or-
namenting pencil, being sure not to get the
varnish on the white paper. In a few min-
utes the picture will be ready to lay on the
panel, and the paper can be removed by wet-
ting it ; and when thoroughly dry, it should
be varnished like an oil painting. Bo partic-
ular to purchase only those transfer pictures
which are covered with gold leaf on the back,
for they will show plainly on any colored
surface, while the plain pictures are used only
on white or light grounds. They may be
procured at any stationery store, and the cost
is trifling.
6197. Lead for Pencils. The easiest
way of producing not only black lead, but all
sorts of pencils, is by the following process,
which combines simplicity, cheapness, and
quality. Take white or pipe clay, put it into
a tub of clear water, to soak for 12 hours,
then agitate the whole until it resembles
milk ; let it rest 2 or 3 minutes, and pour off
the supernatant milky liquor into a second
vessel ; then allow it to settle, pour off the
clear water, and dry the residue on a filter.
Then add black load in any quantity. Pow-
der it, and calcine it at a white heat in a
loosely covered crucible ; cool, and most care-
fully repulverize; then add prepared clay and
prepared plumbago, equal parts. Make into
a paste with water, and put into oiled moulds
01 the size required; dry very gradually, and
apply sufScicnt heat to give the required de-
gree of hardness — the pieces to be taken care-
fully from the moulds and placed in the
grooves of the cedar. The more clay and
heat employed, the harder the crayon ; less
clay and heat produce a contrary effect. The
moulds must be made of 4 pieces of wood,
nicely fitted together.
6198. Artificial Sea Water for Aqua-
ria. A rough imitation of sea water is
formed by mixing 100 ounces of fresh water
with 3 ounces common salt, 1 ounce Epsom
salts, 200 grains chloride of magnesium, and
40 grains chloride of potassium. Or, more
precisely, the real constitution of sea-water
may be imitated in the following manner :
Mix with 970,000 grains rain water 27,000 of
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54,5
chloride of sodium, 3600 of chloride of mag-
nesium, 750 of chloride of potassium, 29 of
bromide of magnesium, 2300 of sulphate of
magnesia, 1400 of sulphate of lime, 35 of car-
bonate of lime, 5 of iodide of sodium. These
all being finely powdered and mixed first, are
to be stirred into the water, through which a
stream of air may be caused to pass from the
bottom until the whole is dissolved. On no
account is the water to bo boiled, or even
heated. Into this water, -when clear, the
rocks and sea- weed may bo introduced. As
soon as the latter are in a flourishing state,
the animals may follow. Care must bo taken
not to have too many of these, and to remove
immediately any that die. The loss by evap-
oration is to be made up by adding clean
rain water. The aquarium, whether of fresh
or of salt water, will require occasionally arti-
ficial aeration. This may be done by simply
blowing through a glass tube which reaches
to near the bottom, or, better still, in the fol-
lowing way : Take a glass syringe which can
be easily worked. Having filled it with wa-
ter, hold it with the nozzle about 2 inches
from the surface of the water intho aquarium,
into which the contents are to be discharged
quickly, and with a sort of jerk. By this
means a multitude of small bubbles are
forced down into tho fluid. This operation
should be repeated for a considerable number
of times.
6199. To Prevent Stair Carpets from
Wearing. Stair carpets should always have
it slip of paper put under them, at and over
the edge ot every stair, which is the part
where they wear first, in order to lessen the
friction of the carpet against tho boards be-
neath. The strips should be within an inch
or two as long as the carpet i i wide and about
4 or 5 inches in breadth. A piece of old car-
pet answers better than paper if you have it.
This plan will keep a stair carpet in good
condition fyr a much longer time than with-
out it.
6200. To Make an .ffiolian Harp. Of
very thin cedar, pine, or other soft wood, make
a box 5 or 6 inches deep, 7 or 8 inches wide,
and of a length just equal to the width of the
window in which it is to bo placed. Across
the top, near each end, glue a strip of wood k
inch high and i inch thick, for bridges. Into
the ends of tho box insert wooden pins, like
those of a violin, to wind tho strings around,
two pins in each end. Make a sound-hole in
the middle of tho top, and string tho box with
small cat-gut, or bluo violin strings. Fasten-
ing one end of each string to the wooden pin
in one end of the box, and carrying it over the
bridges, wind it around tho turning-pin in the
opposite end of the box. The ends of the box
should be increased in thickness where the
wooden pins enter, by a piece of wood glued
upon the inside. Tune the strings in unison
and place the box in tho window. It is better
to have 4 strings, as described, but a harp
with a single string produces an exceedingly
sweet melody of notes, which vary with the
force of the wind.
6201. To Remove the Disagreeable
Taste from New Wooden Vessels. First
scald them with boiling water, then dissolve
some pearlash or soda in lukewarm water,
adding a little lime to it, and wash the inside
of the vessel well with the solution. After-
wards scald it well with plain hot water before
using.
6202. To Preserve Ribbons and Silks.
Ribbons and other silks should be put away
for preservation in brown paper ; the chloride
of lime used in manufacturing white paper
frequently produces discoloration. A white
satin dress should be pinned in blue paper,
with brown paper outside, sewn together at
the edges.
6203. To Make Feather Brushes.
Boil tho wing feathers of a turkey or chicken
for 5 or 10 minutes, then rinse them in tepid
water, dry them and tie them up in bunches
to use in greasing pans and for brushing egg
over tarta or yastry.
6204. Remedy for Frozen Potatoes.
In time of frost, potatoes that have been
affected thereby should be laid in a perfectly
dark place for some days after the thaw has
commenced. If thawed in open day they
rot ; but if in darkness, they do not rot ; and
they lose very little of their natural proper-
ties.
6205. To Make Fire Kindlers. Take
a quart of tar and 3 pounds of resin, melt
them, bring to a cooling temperature, mix
with as much coarse sawdust, with a little
charcoal added, as can be worked in ; spread
out while hot upon a board ; when cold, break
up into lumps of the size of a large, hickory
nut, and you have, at a small expense, kind-
ling material enough for a household for one
year. They will easily ignite from a match
and burn with a strong blaze, long enough to
start any wood that is fit to burn.
6206. To Loosen Ground Glass Stop-
pers. Sometimes the ground glass stoppers
of bottles become, from one cause or another,
fixed in the neck, and cannot be removed by
pulling or twisting. An effectual method is to
wrap a rag wet with hot water around tha
neck and let it remain a few seconds. The
heat will expand tho neck of the bottle, when
the stopper can be removed before the heat
penetrates the stopper itself. Or, wind a
string onco or twice around the neck, and,
holding tho bottle between the knees, pull
alternately on one and the other end, thus
creating friction, and consequently heat. Or
a little camphene dropped between the neck
and stopper of the bottle will often relieve the
stopper.
6207. To Remove a Glass Stopper.
The most effectual mode of removing stop-
pers, especially those of small bottles, such as
smelling-bottles, is as follows : Take a piece of
strong cord, about a yard or 4 feet in length,
double it at the middle, and tie a knot (Fig. I,
6) so as to form a loop (a) of about 4 inches
Fig. 1.
in length ; at the doubled end, bring the knot
close to one side of the stopper, and tie the
ends tightly together on the opposite side, as
at Fig. 2 (e) so as to fasten the string securely
round the neck of the stopper ; now pass one
of the ends through the loop (a), and.then tie
it firmly to the other end ; the doubled cord
546
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
is then to be placed over a bar or other sup-
port, then if the bottle is surrounded by a
cloth, to prevent accident in case of fracture,
and pulled downwards with a jerk, the force
of which is gradually increased, it will be
found that in a short time the stopper is liber-
Fig. 2.
ated. Two precautions are requisite— one is,
that the strain on both sides of the stopper
is equal ; the other, that care be taken that
when the stopper is liberated, it is not dashed
by the rebound against any hard substance,
which would cause its fracture.
6208. To Keep Up Sash Windows.
This is performed oy means of cork, in the
simplest manner, and with scarcely any ex-
pense. Bore 3 or 4 holes in the sides of the
sash, into which insert common bottle-cork,
projecting about the sixteenth part of an inch.
These will press against the window frames
along the usual groove, and by their elasticity
support the sash at any height which may be
required.
6209. How to Treat a Burning
Chimney. If it is desired to extinguish the
fire in a chimney which has been lighted by a
fire in the fireplace, shut all the doors of the
apartment so as to prevent any current of air
up the chimney, then throw a few handfuls of
common fine salt upon the fire in the grate or
Btove, which will immediately extinguish the
fire in the chimney. The philosophy of this
is, that in the process of burning the salt,
muriatic acid gas is evolved, which is aprompt
extinguisher of fire.
6210. To Prevent Glass from Crack-
ing by Sudden Heating. Probably more
articles of glass in daily use are broken by
being suddenly heated than by blows or other
acts of carelessness. Glass is a very poor con-
ductor of heat, and when hot water is poured
suddenly into a tumbler or goblet, it is almost
certain to break unless the glass itself is
quite warm. Tepid water should be first
used, or a little cold water be poured into the
glass on which the hot water may be drawn.
Lamp chimneys frequently crack when placed
upon the lighted lamp, especially if taken
from a cold room. The proper remedy is to
turn up the flame slowly or by degrees ; this
will gradually heat the glass, and prevent its
fracture.
6211. To Restore the Color of "Win-
dow Glass. Window glass constantly ex-
posed to the action of the sun and rain soon
deteriorates, as the potash or soda it contains
combines with the carbonic acid of the air. A
whitish opaqueness is the result of this action ;
and in order to restore the pane to its original
clearness, rub it with dilute muriatic acid, and
then clean with moistened whiting. It is said
that glass, in an extreme state of decomposi-
tion may be restored by this means..
6212. To Clean Discolored Glass.
Glass that appears smoky may be cleaned
by applying dilute nitric acid, when soap, tur-
pentine, alcohol, or scouring with whiting
would make no impression on it. "Water of
ammonia is also effective.
6213. To Remove a Ring from a
Swollen Finger. A thread should be
wound evenly around, beginning at the ex-
tremity of the finger, and bringing each coil
close to the preceding, until the ring be
reached. A needle is then threaded on and
passed under the ring, and the thread is care-
fully unwound from the finger. The ring
follows each coil as it is successively unrolled,
and by almost imperceptible degrees is
brought over the knuckle and removed. Care
must be taken that the thread is wound on
evenly, particularly over the swollen knuckle,
or an entanglement will occur in the unwind-
ing. A curved needle will pass under the
ring more easily than a straight one.
6214. To Prevent Gas Meters from
Freezing. Half a pint (or less) of good
glycerine is said to prevent the freezing of a
gallon of water, though at least double the
proportion is preferable in the country, what-
ever the temperature in the winter may hap-
pen to be. Water containing about 40 per
cent, of glycerine is but little inclined to
freeze. Glycerine in a pure state is perfectly
inert, and exercises no influence upon the
metals of which the meter is composed.
Whiskey, on the contrary, undergoes the acet-
ous fermentation, by which the alcohol is
converted into acetic acid, which 'corrodes
the meter, and- soon wears it out.
6215. To Prevent the Creaking of
Doors. Apply a little soap to the hinges.
Or: Take lard, soap, and black lead, equal
parts, and apply.
6216. To Keep Kerosene Oil. This
oil should be kept for use in air-tight closed
vessels. A large quantity is best .kept in a
well-corked can provided with a faucet an inch
or two from the bottom, so that the oil can
be drawn off as required, without disturbing
the sediment which usually collects on the
bottom of the vessel ; by this means the oil
will be always clear and bright. The small
cans used for filling lamps should be kept
closely corked both at the neck and spout.
If either cork be left out for a day or two, the
oil will burn dull, and cake on the wick ; this
is more especially the case when the can is
kept in a warm place.
6217. Management of Brooms. If
brooms are wetted in boiling suds once a
week, they will become very tough, will not
cut a carpet, last much longer, and always
sweep like a new broom.
6218. To Wash White Dogs. Make
a good lather of white soap with a little spirit
of turpentine ; wash the dog as quickly as
possible in this while it is warm, but not hot,
taking care not to let the soap lather get into
its eyes. Have a tub with clean tepid water
in which a little blue has been dissolved
ready; when the coat is clean dip the dog
into the blue-water and rinse out the soap.
Then rub it well in a clean sheet before a fire;
if the hair is long comb it out and brush it as
it dries. The turpentine will kill fleas unless
the dog is much infested with them.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54:7
6219. To Paint an Iron Bath Tub.
Mix the paint to a proper consistency with
best coachmakers' Japan varnish. For white
lead paint, use half turpentine and half coach-
makers' Japan. It will not darken much.
Yenetian red is best for a first coat, for any
color but white.
6220. To Raise Old Veneers. In re-
pairing old cabinets, <fcc., workmen are often
at a lo.ss to know how to get rid of those blis-
ters which appear on the surface. "We will
describe how the operation may be performed
without difficulty. First wash the surface
with boiling water, and with a coarse cloth
remove dirt or grease; then place it before
the fire; oil its surface with linseed oil, place
it again to the fire, and the heat will make
the oil penetrate quite through the veneer
and soften the glue underneath ; then, whilst
hot, raise the edge gently with a chisel, and it
will separate completely from the ground.
Be careful not to use too much force, or you
will spoil the work. If the work should get
cold during the operation, apply more oil, and
heat it again. "When you have entirely sep-
arated the veneer, wash off the glue, and pro-
ceed to lay it again as a new veneer.
6221. To Take Bruises out of Furni-
ture. "Wet the part with warm water;
double a piece of brown paper 5 or 6 times,
soak it in warm water, and lay it on the
place; apply on that a warm, but not hot,
flat iron, till the moisture is evaporated. If
the bruise be not gone, repeat the process.
After two or three applications the dent or
bruise will be raised to the surface. If the
bruise be small, merely soak it with warm
water, and hold a red-hot iron near the sur-
face, keeping the surface continually wet;
the bruise will soon disappear.
6222. To Dissolve Gum-Shellac in
Ammonia. The vessel containing the shel-
lac is put into a large vessel with hot water.
Boiling water is then poured on the gum,
after which ammonia is added slowly, but
continuously, stirring all the while with a
glass rod, until solution is effected. An ex-
cess of ammonia will color the solution
brown. After cooling, the fluid is filtered,
and may be kept in this state a long while.
6223. To Manage Water-Pipes in
"Winter. "When the frost begins to set in,
coyer the water-pipes with hay or straw bands,
twisted tight round them. Let the cisterns
and water-butts be washed out occasionally ;
this will keep the water pure and fresh. In
pumping up water into the cistern for the
water-closet, be very particular in winter
time. Let all the water be let out of the
pipe when done ; but if this is forgotten, and
it should be frozen, take a small gimlet and
bore a hole in the pipe, a little distance from
the place where it is let off, which will pre-
vent its bursting. Put a peg into the hole
when the water is let off.
6224. To Protect Lead Water-Pipes.
Dr. Schwarz, of Breslau, notes a simple
method of protecting lead pipes from the ac-
tion of water, by forming on the inside sur-
face of the pipes an insoluble sulphide of lead.
The operation, which is a very simple one,
consists in filling the pipes with a warm and
concentrated solution of sulphide of potassium
or sodium ; the solution is left in contact with
the lead for about 15 minutes, and then
poured out.
6225. Blowing Out Steam Boilers.
Steam boilers should never be blown out un-
der steam pressure. The safety valve should
first be raised until the pressure is all removed
by letting the steam escape as rapidly as pos-
sible ; then the hand hole plate or other de-
vice should be opened, and the dirt and sedi-
ment will run out with the water. If the
boiler is allowed to cool off, the dirt will set-
tle to the bottom and be fastened on by the
heat. The dirt is always on the top of the
water when there is any pressure of steam
on it.
6226. Substitute for a Corkscrew.
A convenient substitute for a corkscrew, when
the latter is not at hand, may be found in the
use of a common screw, with an attached
string to pull the cork. Or, stick two steel
forks vertically into the cork on opposite sides,
not too near the edge. Eun the blade of a
knife through the two, and give a twist.
6227. To Remove a Cork from the
Inside of a Bottle. "With a stout string
projected into the bottle, turn the bottle
around until the cork is caught in a loop of
the string, and with force pull out the cork.
6228. To Remove Starch or Rust
from Flat-Irons. To remove starch or
rust from flat-irons, have a piece of yellow
beeswax tied in a coarse cloth. "When the
iron is almost hot enough to use, but not
quite, rub it quickly with the beeswax, and
then with a clean, coarse cloth.
6229. To Prepare New Linen for
Being Embroidered. New linen may be
embroidered more easily by rubbing it over
with fine white soap ; it prevents the threads
from cracking.
6230. To Shell Beans Easily. Pour
upon the pods a quantity of scalding water
and the beans will slip very easily from the
pod. By pouring scalding water on apples,
the skin may be easily slipped off, and much
labor saved.
6231. To Improve the Wicks of
Candles. First steep the wicks in a solution
of lime-water in which saltpetre has been
dissolved. To 1 gallon water add 2 ounces
saltpetre and £ pound lime. Dry well the
wicks before using. It improves the light,
and prevents the tallow from running.
6232. Adhesive for Leather Belts.
Printers' ink is a good adhesive for leather
belts. One application will keep a leather
belt in running order for 12 mouths.
6233. Ajutage of Fountains. M.
Francois, in his work, "Art des Fontaines,"
estimates the decrease in the height of the
jet to be 1 foot below the level of the source
for every 100 yards distance. He considers
the ajutage or opening of the pipe should be
i of the size of the pipe itself. "Where pipes
are already laid down, and the power of the
head not very accurately known, it is well, by
means of a leaden nozzle, the orifice of which
may be readily increased or diminished, to
test the amount of force, so that the ajutage
may be adapted to throw the highest and
fullest jet the head is capable of.
6234. To Make Composition Orna-
ments for Picture Frames or Other
Purposes. Mix as much whiting as you.
54=3
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
think will be required for present nse with
thinnish glue, to the consistence of putty ;
and having a mould ready, rub it well all over
with sweet oil, and press your composition in
it ; take it out, and you will have a good im-
pression, which you may set by to dry ; or, if
wanted, you may, before it gets hard, apply it
to your work with thick glue, and bend it
into the form required.
6235. To Stop Leaky Skylights.
Leaky skylights may be stopped and cured
with Dutch rushes, bedded in, caulked, and
covered with good white lead. On wet mak-
ing its appearance it quickly attacks the rush,
which swells up so tight and firm that all
progress of wet and droppings is effectually
stayed.
6236. To Thicken and Strengthen
Muslin. Dip the muslin in dilute sulphuric
acid. According to Professor Calvert, of
Manchester, England, this very much in-
creases it;s thickness and strength. The cot-
ton thus prepared is technically known as
"blanket."
6237. To Develop the Inscription
on Worn Coins. By heating these gradu-
ally, the inscription will, in almost all cases,
make its appearance.
6238. To Preserve Copper Coins
and Medals from the Action of the
Air. Immerse them for a moment in melted
paraffine, and then wipe off the excess of
paraffine with a clean dry cloth.
6239. To Prepare Bladders. These
articles are prepared by cutting off the fat and
loose membranes attached to them, and wash-
ing them first in a weak solution of chloride
of lime, and afterwards in clear water; they
are then blown out and submitted to pressure
by rolling them under the arm, by which they
become considerably larger; they are next
blown quite tight, dried, and tied up in dozens
for sale. Or, dip them in warm water, dry
and rub them well in with a little glycerine ;
they will keep soft and pliable. They are
employed by druggists and oil and colormen
to tie over pots, bottles, and jars, and to con-
tain pill masses, and other similar substances.
Never buy bladders unless they are perfectly
dry and tight, as, if the reverse be the case,
they will neither keep nor prove sound.
6240. To Obtain Herbs of the Finest
Flavor. When herbs are to be kept for
flavoring dishes, it is obviously of the first
importance that they should be gathered at
the right time, and dried in the best manner.
The seasons when the various herbs have in
their fullest flavor, are as follows: Basil,
from the middle of August to the middle of
September; marjoram, (luring the month of
July ; winter savory, the latter end of July
and throughout August ; summer savory, the
same ; thyme, of various kinds, during June
and July ; mint, the latter end of June, and
during July; sage, August and September;
tarragon and burnet, June, July, and Aug-
ust; chervil, parsley, fennel, cider flowers,
and orange flowers," May, June, and July.
As the seasons vary in different localities, a
good general rule is to gather the herbs when
they first blossom. Herbs should be gathered
on a dry day, before the sun has been long
upon them. When intended for preservation,
they should be cleaned from dirt and dust,
and dried gradually upon a warm stove, or in
a Dutch oven, after which they may be tied
up in bags made of old newspaper. Or, the
leaves may be picked off, pounded in a mor-
tar, passed through a hair sieve, and the pow-
ders be preserved separately in well-stoppered
bottles.
6241. To Remove Clinker from Fire
Brick. When the fire bricks have become
covered with clinkers which have fused and
adhered, they may be cleaned by throwing
oyster or clam shells into the fire box when
the fire is very hot, and allowing the fire to
go out. The clinkers will generally cleave
off without the use of much force -the next
morning. From 2 quarts to \ peck will be
sufficient for most stoves, and the operation
can be repeated if some of the clinkers still
adhere. Salt sprinkled on clinker adhering
to fire brick will also loosen it.
6242. To Preserve Carpets. It is
very advisable iu laying down carpets at
first, to cover the floor beneath them with
large sheets of paper, so as to prevent the
dust from rising between the boards. A car-
pet lasts longer by adopting this precaution.
6243. To Prevent Injury to Kid
Gloves from Excessive Perspiration.
Persons who wear kid gloves in hot weather,
and who perspire freely, will find that injury
to the gloves will be prevented by applying
ordinary corn starch to their hands (dry)
before drawing on their gloves. Pulverized
soap-stone will answer the same purpose.
6244. The Art of Easy Shaving.
The following is the substance of the Instruc-
tions of the celebrated Mr. Mechi on this sub-
ject : Never fail to well wash your beard with
soap and cold water, and to rub it dry, im-
mediately before you apply the lather, of
which the more you use, and the thicker it is,
the easier you will shave. Never use warm
water, which makes a tender face. In cold
weather, place your razor (closed of course)
in your pocket, or under your arm, to warm
it. The moment you leave your bed (or
bath) is the best time to shave. Always
wipe your razor clean, and strop it before
putting it away; and put your shaving-brush
away with the lather on it. The razor (being
only a very fine saw) should be moved in a
sloping or sawing direction, and held nearly
flat to your face, care being taken to draw
the skin as tight as possible with the left
hand, so as to present an even surface, and to
throw out the beard.
6245. To Hone a Razor. The surface
of the hone must be perfectly level. The
razor should be held flat on the hone, and the
back never raised, or it will induce a round
or thick edge. Draw the razor from heel to
point, alternating the sides at each stroke,
and the action always against the edge.
When the edge is wiry and thin enough to
turn, strop it on a coarse strop, drawing the
edge occasionally over the thumb nail, until
the edge is smooth, then finish on a fine
strop, and the palm of the hand.
6246. Strop for Razors. There are
many kinds of razor strops formed of leather
glued on a wooden holder. These are apt, in
time, to round the edge of the razor, by allow-
ing the blade to bed itself or sink in the
leather. The best is a strip of Russia leather,
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54:9
strained as tight as a drum on a curved or
bowed piece of wood.
6247. Paste for Razors. Emery very
finely levigated (washed) in the same man-
ner as prepared chalk (see No. 1292), mixed
with lard or tallow, or a mixture of these
with neat's-foot oil. Or : equal parts of jew-
elers' rouge, black lead, and prepared suet.
6248. Pradier's Paste for Razors.
Best putty powder, 1 ounce; jewelers'
rouge, 1 ounce ; scales of iron, -J ounce ; levi-
gated Turkey stone, 3 ounces; beef suet, 1*
ounces. Or: Mix equal parts of dried sul-
phate of iron and salt, and apply a gradually
mcreased heat, in a closed vessel. Pulverize,
elutriate (see No. 14), and mix with lard or
tallow.
6249. To Strop a Razor. The practice
of pressing on the edge of a razor in stropping
soon rounds it ; the pressure should be direct-
ed to the back, which should never be raised
from the strop. If you shave from heel to
point of the razor, strop it from point to heel;
but if you begin with the point in shaving,
then strop it from heel to point. If you only
once put away your razor without stropping
it, or otherwise perfectly cleaning the edge,
you must no longer expect to shave well and
easy, the soap and damp so soon rust the fine
edge. A piece of soft plate-leather (chamois
leather) should always be kept with razors, to
wipe them with.
6250. To Sharpen a Razor. The sim-
plest method of sharpening a razor is to put it
for half an hour in water to which has been
added ^ of its weight of muriatic or sulphuric
acid, and after a few hours set it on a hone.
The acid acts as a whetstone, by corroding the
whole surface uniformly, so that nothing fur-
ther than a smooth polish is necessary.
6251. To Sharpen Edge Tools. Pro-
ceed as directed in the last receipt.
6252. To Grind Cutlery and Edge
Tools. For grinding, the stone should be
dipped in water to prevent the heating of the
tools ; and careful cutlers use oil for polishing,
instead of water, when using grindstones of
small diameter.
6253. Caution in Grinding Cutlery.
Never follow the example of the street knife-
grinder. He does much work, and cheap
work. He uses as little water as possible.
Give him a good razor or a good knife, and
he gives it back well sharpened, but a spoiled
tool, which needs to be hardened anew.
Therefore, when sharpening tools, take large
stones with much water, and make slow and
good work.
6254. To Sharpen and Set a Saw.
First, run a file along the edge of the teeth
till you see them range in a direct line ; then
lay the blade on a smooth piece of lead, or on
the end of a trying-plane, and with a square
steel punch and a hammer, give a gentle tap
on every alternate tooth. Keverse the saw
and punch the alternate teeth on the other
side, and look down the saw to see that the
teeth are all equally set. Then begin with
your file at that part of the saw nearest the
handle. To sharpen or file the teeth to a
good point, hold the file so that it makes an
angle with the saw-blade of about 30 degrees,
or $- that of a mitre angle. Then file every
other tooth to a very sharp point, sharpening
only those teeth which are set away from tho
operator. Turn the saw round, and repeat
the operation on the remaining teeth. The
file used for sharpening saws should be trian-
gular, and in fine order. A dull file will
never make a sharp saw.
6255. To File a Flat Surface. In
filing a flat surface on a piece of iron, unless
there is some skill or care used in the opera-
tion, the exterior edges are apt to be greatly
pared away, so that that part of tho surfaco
about midway between them will be the least
filed down. The work should be held in a
bench vise, in such a position that the file will
run in a horizontal direction nearly level with
the workman's elbow; but should the work bo
of a very light nature, it may be held in a
more elevated position; or, if it be very
heavy, it may be held a little lower. In filing
flat surfaces, a ' surface-plate ' is used, to en-
able the operator to finish the work with ac-
curacy. The surface-plate is a cast-iron plate
planed and carefully reduced to a true surface.
Some red lead is rubbed on this plate beforo
being used ; then this piece of work is rubbed
on the plate, and wherever the work is red-
dened it shows that that part of the work is
above the level, and has to be filed down ;
and this process of testing and filing is earned
on until tho work is reduced to a perfectly-
true surface. It saves the file to draw it back
at each stroke as lightly as possible. There
is also economy in using the files first on brass
or cast iron, and afterwards on wrought iron.
6256. Recutting Files with Acids.
There are many receipts for converting old
files into new by means of acids, and among
the latest is that recently patented by Albert
I. Ferguson, of Sharon, Pa. Tho files must
bo thoroughly cleansed in warm water con-
taining a small quantity of potash, which
readily removes any grease or dirt from them.
After the files are thus cleansed, they must be
washed with warm water and dried by arti-
ficial heat. Next, place 1 pint warm water
into a wooden vessel, and put into it as many
files as the water will cover. Then add 2
ounces blue vitriol (sulphate of copper) finely
pulverized, and 2 ounces borax, well mixed,
taking care to turn the files over, so that each
may come in contact with tho mixture. To
the above mixture now add 7 ounces sul-
phuric acid and J ounce cider vinegar, which
will cause the files to assume a red appear-
ance at first, but they will in a short time
resume their natural color. Then they must
be removed, washed in cold water, and dried
by artificial heat. "When dry, they must be
sponged with olive oil, wrapped in porous
paper, and laid aside for use.
6257. Re-Sharpening Files. A very
interesting and economical process has been
exhibited before the Societe" d'Encouragement
of Paris, by M. "Werdermann. "Well-worn
files are first carefully cleaned by means of
hot water and soda ; they are then placed in
connection with the positive pole of a battery,
in a bath composed of 40 parts sulphuric acid,
80 parts nitric acid, and 1000 parts water.
The negative pole is formed of a copper spiral
surrounding the files, but not touching them ;
the coil terminates in a wire which rises
towards the surface. This arrangement is the
result of practical experience. When the files
550
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
have been 10 minutes in the bath they are
taken out, washed, and dried, when the whole
of the hollows will be found to have been
attacked in a very sensible manner; but
should the effect not be sufficient, they are
replaced for the same period as before. Two
operations are sometimes necessary, but rare-
ly more. The files thus acted upon are, to all
appearance, like new ones, and are said to be
good for sixty hours' work.
6258. To Clean Files. The occasional
cleaning of files in the machine shop by
means of oil, heat, and the card (wire brush)
will save dollars to the owner and annoyance
to the worker.
6259. To Cut Good Steel Scrapers.
Part of the blade of a broken saw makes the
best scrapers ; but, as it is hard, it is very
difficult to cut it into the required form. The
best and most expeditious way is to mark
it out to the size wanted, and then to place
the blade or steel plate in a vise which shuts
very close, placing the mark even with the
face of the vise, and the part to be cut to
waste above, the vise. Then with a cold-
chisel, holding it close to the vise and rather
inclined upwards, begin at one end of the
steel plate, and with a sharp blow of the
hammer it will cut it. Keep going on by de-
grees, and it will with ease be cut to the shape
required ; then grind the edges of the scraper
level, and finish by rubbing it on a Turkey-
stone.
6260. Knots. It is not a very difficult
thing to tie a neat and secure knot, yet com-
paratively few persons know how to accom -
plish it. Below we give all the knots neces-
sary for ordinary purposes, with illustrations
and directions for making them.
6261. The Sheet Bend or Weaver's
Knot. This knot is usually employed by
netters, and is called by sailors " the sheet
bend." It is readily made by
bending one of the pieces of cord
into a loop (a, b, Fig. 1), which
is to be held between the finger
and thumb of the left hand ; the
other cord, c, is passed through
the loop from the further side,
then round behind the two legs
of the loop, and lastly under
itself, the loose end coming out
at d. In the smallness of its
size, and the firmness with which
the various parts grip together,
this knot surpasses every other ;
it can, moreover, be tied readily
when one of the pieces, viz., a, 6,
is exceedingly short ; in common
stout twine," less than an inch
being sufficient to form the loop.
The above method of forming it is the sim-
plest to describe, although not the most rapid
m practice ; as it may bo made in much less
time by crossing the two ends of cord (a, b,
Fig. 2) on the tip of the forefinger of the left
hand, and holding them firmly by the left
thumb, which covers the crossing; then the
part c is to be wound round tho thumb in a
loop, as shown in tho figure, and passed be-
tween the two ends, behind a and before b;
the knot is completed by turning the end b
downwards in front of d, passing it through
the loop, securing it under tho left thumb,
Fig. 1.
and tightening the whole by pulling d. As
formed in this mode, it is more rapidly made
than almost any a
other knot; and, \ ^ro
as before stated,
it excells all in
securi'ty and
compactness; so
firmly do the
various turns a JT^ ^^^d
grip each other,
that, after hav-
ing been tightly
pulled, it is very
difficult to un-
tie; this is tho ^ ' c
only drawback
to its usefulness, Fig. 2.
and in this respect it is inferior to the reef-
knot, Fig. 3, which is made in precisely the
same manner that a shoe-string is tied, only
pulling out the ends instead of leaving them
as bows.
6262. The Beef Knot. The only pre-
caution necessary in making a
reef-knot is to observe that the
two parts of each string are on
the same side of the loop ; if
they are not, tho ends (and tho
bows, if auy are formed) are at
right angles to the cords. The
knot is less secure than tho wea-
ver's kuot, and is termed by
sailors a granny-knot. Other
knots are occasionally used to
connect two cords, but it is un-
necessary to describe them, as
every useful purpose may bo
answered by those above men-
tioned.
6263. The Binding Knot.
The binding knot, (Figs. 4, 5,)
is exceedingly useful in connect-
ing broken sticks, rods, <fec., but Fig 3.
some difficulty is often experienced in fasten-
ing it at the finish ; if, however the string is
placed over tho
part to be united,
as shown in Fig.
4, and the long
end b, used to
bind around tho
rod, and finally
passed through
tho loop a, as
shown in Fig. 5,
it is readily se-
cured by pulling
d, when the loop
is drawn in, and
fastens tho end of
the cord.
6264. The
Double Half
Hitch or Clove
Hitch. For fast-
ening a cord to Fig. 5 Fig. 4.
any cylindrical object, one of the most useful
knots is tho clove hitch, which, although ex-
ceedingly simple and most easily made, is one
of the most puzzling knots to the uninitiated.
There are several modes of forming it, the
most simple being perhaps as follows : make
two loops, precisely similar in every respect.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
551
as a and b, Fig. 6, then bring 6 in front of a,
go as to make both loops correspond, and pass
them over the object to be tied, tightening
the ends ; if this is properly done, the knot
•will not slip, although surrounding a tolera-
bly smooth cylindrical object, as a pillar,
pole, <fec. This knot is employed by surgeons
in reducing dislocations of the last joint of the
thumb, and by sailors in great part of the stand-
ing rigging. The loop which is formed when
a cable is passed around a post or tree to se-
cure a vessel near shore, is fastened by what
Fig. 6.
Bailors term two half hitches, which is simply
a clove hitch made by the end of the rope
which is passed around the post or tree, and
then made to describe the clove hitch around
that part of itself which is tightly strained.
(See Fig. 7.)
Fig. 7.
6265. The Bowline. This knot is used
in slinging heavy bodies; it cannot slip, and
will never jam under the heaviest strain. It
is difficult to understand at first, but with a
little practice can be made very rapidly.
Take the fixed or standing part of the rope in
the left hand (this should be done in making
all knots), lay the free end over it, and then
by a twist of the wrist make a loop in the
Fig. S.
etanding part which shall inclose the free
end (a, Fig. 8); then carry the free end be-
hind the standing part and through the loop,
parallel with itself (b, Fig. 8). This knot
will well repay the trouble spent in learn-
ing it.
6266. How to Tie a Parcel. The tying
up of parcels in paper is an operation which
is seldom neatly performed by persons whose
occupations have not given them great facil-
ities for constant practice. Let a single knot
be made in the end of the cord, which is then
passed around the box or parcel. This knot-
ted end is now tied by a single hitch around
the middle of the cord (Fig. 9) and the whole
pulled tight. The cord itself is then carried
at right angles round the end of the parcel,
and where it crosses the transverse cord on
the bottom of the box (Fig. 10) it should, if
the parcel is heavy and requires to be firmly
secured, be passed over the cross cord, then
back underneath
it, and pulled
tightly, then over
itself; lastly, un-
der the cross cord,
and on around tho
other end of the
box. "When it
reaches the top it
must be secured
Fig. 9. foy passing it un-
der that part of the cord which runs length-
ways (a, Fig. 9), pulling it very tight, and
fastening it by two half hitches round itself.
The great cause of parcels becoming loose ia
the fact of the cord being often fastened to
one of tho trans-
verse parts (as 6,
Fig. 9), instead of
the piece running
lengthways, and in
this case it invaria-
bly becomes loose.
Tho description
may perhaps be
rendered clearer
Fig. 10. by the aid of the
figures, which exhibit tho top and bottom of
a box corded as described. The cords, how-
ever, are shown in a loose state, to allow
their arrangement to be perceived more
easily.
6267. Artificial Grindstones. Washed
silicious sand, 3 parts; shellac, 1 part; melt,
and form it into the proper shape while warm.
The fineness of tho sand must depend on the
work the stono is intended for. Powdered
emery may be substituted for sand. The
same composition is formed upon pieces of
wood, for the purpose of sharpening knives,
and cutting stones, shells, <fec.
6268. To Make an Emery Wheel
for Grinding Tools. Provide a solid wheel,
made of pine, or any other soft wood, and of
the size required for the purpose. Turn the
wheel true, and then turn rounds or hollows
in its face, to suit the tools you wish to grind,
gouges, rounds, &c. Then prepare some best
glue, and, using it hot and thin, put it on the
face of the wheel with a brush. The first coat of
glue should bo a lisht one, and when it is dry
a second one should be applied, and. as quickly
as possible, as much emery should be sifted
upon the wet surface as the glue will hold.
When this is dry another coat of glue and emery
should be applied in the same way. This will
make a wheel that will last for months, and
grind faster than anything else. No. 0 emery
is best for this purpose. (Seo last receipt.)
552
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
6269. To Cement Emery to Wood.
The following cement is wonderfully tough.
Melt together equal parts of shellac, white
resin, and carbolic acid in crystals ; add the
last after the others are melted. The effect of
the carbolic acid is surprising.
6270. Kerosene Oil for Whetstones.
Kerosene oil on whetstones is superior to any
other liquid for the purpose, as it keeps the
stone in better condition and assists the oper-
ation of sharpening.
6271. How to TJse a Grindstone. Do
not waste the stone by running it in water ;
but if you do, dp not allow it to stand in
water when not in use, as this will cause a
soft place ; it is much better to wet the stone
by dropping water on it from a pot suspended
above the stone, and stop off the water when
not in use. Do not allow the stone to get out
of order, but keep it perfectly round by use of
gas pipe, or a hacker. Clean off all greasy
tools before sharpening, as grease or oil
destroys the grit. Observe : when you get a
stone that suits your purpose, send a sample
of the grit to the dealer to select by ; a half
ounce sample is enough, and can be sent in a
letter by mail.
6272. Soap in Place of Oil on Ar-
kansas Stones. The employment of oil for
the purpose of keeping Arkansas and other
stones in proper condition for sharpening in-
struments is so general as to be almost, if not
entirely, to the exclusion of every other sub-
stance. The tendency, however, to become
gummy, and clog the surface of the stone
after it has been on a short time, and the
liability of soiling the fingers and imparting
an unpleasant odor to them, make the use of
oil objectionable. All this can be readily ob-
viated, however, by using soap in place of oil,
as follows : — Kub a piece of toilet soap and a
little water over the surface of the stone until
a thick lather is formed, and then allow this
to diy. "When occasion arises for putting an
edge on a tool, a few drops of water will moist-
en the soap and place the stone in proper con-
dition for use at once. This plan is one that
has been successfully employed for years.
6273. Drill Lubricator. In drilling
wrought iron, use 1 pound soft soap, mixed
with 1 gallon boiling water. This is a cheap
lubricator ; it insures working with great ease,
and clean cutting by the drill.
6274. To Face Oil Stones. Take a
piece of iron with even or straight face (it
ought to be planed) ; scatter a little emery 01
fine sand about as coarse as No. Ik sand
paper on the iron plate, add a little water and
rub the face of the stone, renewing the emery
or sand and water as requisite, finishing with
an adition of water without emery or sand.
This is the quickest and truest way, making
the stone perfectly straight and occupying
from 5 to 10 minutes time.
6275. To Make Plain Chocolate.
Boasted cocoa or chocolate beans or nuts are
made into paste by trituration in a heatec
mortar ; then poured into tin moulds and left
till cold. In this form it is cake chocolate
By grinding this is reduced to chocolate pow-
der. Sweetened and flavored chocolate is
made in this way : the sugar and aromatics
being added during the trituration ; the pro
portions of these used for the various kinds o
jhocolate are given below. "Vanilla, <fcc., must
be ground before adding to the paste. (See
No. 6279.)
6276. French Chocolate. Grind to-
;ether as in last receipt, 3 pounds best cacao
nuts, 1 pound refined sugar, and 2 vanilla
beans. (See No. 6279.)
6277. Spanish Aromatic Chocolate.
rind together 11 pounds Caracca nuts, 3
)ounds white sugar, 1 ounce vanilla, £ ounce
innamon, and % drachm cloves. (See No. 6279.)
6278. Spanish Almond and Vanilla
Jhocolate. Take 10 pounds Caracca nuts
and 3 pounds sugar (or 8 pounds Caracca
nuts and 2 pounds island cacao and 10 pounds
sugar), and 3 ounces vanilla. Prepare as in.
;he last receipt.
6279. To Grind Vanilla Beans. Ta-
nilla is pulverized by triturating with a little
sugar.
1280. Molasses Candy. Take 1 quart
molasses, 14 pounds brown sugar, the juice of
a large lemon and 12 drops oil of lemon ; mix
;he molasses and sugar together, butter the
inside of a kettle and put it in. Let it boil
over a moderate fire for 2 hours, then add the
lemon juice and boil % hour ; stir it often, to
prevent it from burning; when thoroughly
lone it will cease boiling ; then butter a pan
and put it in to cool ; if sufficiently done it will
be crisp and brittle, if not it will be tough and
ropy. Nuts of any kind may be added just
before it is put in the pan ; they must be well
stirred in. The candy may bo worked by
keeping the hands well covered with- flour, or
by greasing them well with butter. The
working must be done as soon as it is cool
enough to handle. It may be made of mo-
lasses only — in this case it requires longer
boiling — and other flavoring may be used in-
stead of lemon.
6281. To Make Taffee. Mix £ cup
butter with 2 of sugar, and, when well stirred
together, put it in a china lined saucepan over
the fire. Let it boil steadily and gently until,
by dropping a little on a plate and cooling it,
you find it sufficiently stiff.
6282. To Make Molasses Taffee. To
1 quart of molasses put 1 gill of cold water,
and set it over a moderate fire ; let it boil
steadily until nearly stiff enough, then add
1 table-spoonful butter and 1 tea-spoonful
brown sugar. Boil 10 minutes longer, then
pour into buttered pans.
6283. Everton Taffee. To make this
favorite and wholesome candy, take li pounds
moist sugar, 3 ounces butter, H teacups
water, and 1 lemon. Boil the sugar, butter,
water, and half the rind of the lemon together,
and when done (which will be known by
dropping into cold water, when it should be
quite crisp) let it stand aside till the boiling
has ceased, and then stir in the juice of the
lemon. Butter a dish, and pour it in about i
inch in thickness. The fire must be quick,
and the taffee stirred all the time.
6284. To Make Cream Rise. Cream
cannot rise through a great depth of milk.
Therefore, if milk is desired to retain its cream
for a time, it should be put into a deep narrow
vessel; but if it be desired to free it almost
completely of cream, it should be poured into
a broad flat dish, not much exceeding one
inch in depth.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
6285. To Clear all Kinds of Sugar.
Take a little gum arabic, and a little isin-
glass dissolved in hot -water; pour it,
when dissolved, in your sugar, when it is boil-
ing, and it will clear all the sediment to
the top of the pan, which must be skimmed
off as soon as it rises. Loaf sugar may be
cleared with the white of an egg, isinglass, or
gum arabic. A little of each will do. (See
No. 1357.)
6286. To Keep a Churn from Froth-
ing Over. Take the body of the chum and
cut a groove around the inside of the mouth,
about 3 inches from the top and f inch deep,
and then remove half the thickness of the
wood, making a shoulder all around ; then
take the cover and cut it to fit nicely inside,
and you have now done away with the
necessity for cloths, tubs, pans, &c., hereto-
fore required to save the cream flowing over.
6287. To Make French Coffee. A
French coffee pot consists of two tin vessels,
one on top of the other. In the upper one is
a strainer, and a tin plate pierced with holes.
The coffee, ground almost as fine as gun-
powder, is ponied into the strainer, and the
plate with the holes put over it. Boiling
water is then poured in and filters through
into the bottom vessel or pot. The pot should
be kept on the range or stove, a few moments,
until scalding hot, and the fluid which has
filtered through poured in at the top again,
which will extract all the flavor of the berry,
and make a cup of coffee far superior to that
boiled. Liebig says, however, that a portion
of the coffee should be kept out, thrown into
the bottom of the vessel, and there permitted
to steep, like tea. This, he says, gives the
flavor, while the infiltrated portion gives the
strength. "We have tried this experiment
with great success, and find it a vast improve-
ment over the method of simply pouring boil-
ing water on the top ; it is, moreover,
economical, because the ground coffee is ex-
hausted more completely than by simple im-
mersion in hot water. After standing a few
moments, it is as clear as spring water, and as
deep colored as claret. A still better plan, in
making coffee by the filtering method, is
thus : place the ground coffee in the filter,
cover it closely ; then pour sufficient boiling
water in the coffee-pot (not into the filter) to
cover the bottom about -J- inch. Place the
filter in the coffee-pot, and set the whole on
the stove or fire, so that the water will boil
and its steam rise and soften the coffee in the
filter. In about 5 minutes, empty out the
water, and pour boiling water through the
filter as usual. The ground coffee will bo so
thoroughly exhausted of its strength aud
aroma that it will not bear twice watering.
Coffee should never be brought in contact with
iron. Tinned coffee-pots that have been used
for some time are apt to get worn on the sur-
face, so that the iron the tin plate is made of
comes through. "When this occurs the coffee
will be bitter and black, for it attacks iron,
forming an acid very quickly. This any one
can see by putting a few drops on a case-
knife. Above all, to have good coffee, the
pot must be scrupulously clean.
6288. To Keep Suet. Suet chopped
fine and mixed with flour, if tied down tight
in a jar will keep 10 days or 2 weeks, and is
very nice to use for puddings or pastry. If
there be more suet than will be used while
fresh, throw it into a pickle made in the pro-
portion of 4 ounces salt to 1 quart cold water.
It must be freshened by laying it in fresh water
an hour or two before using it, and will then
be as nice as fresh suet. Or the suet may
be rendered down, and poured into a pan con-
taining about an inch of cold water. "When
cold, take off the suet (the impurities will
have fallen to the bottom of the water), and
pack it away in jars for future use. Do not
put in salt, if it is intended to use for frying,
as salt prevents articles from browning easily.
6289. Imitation Asses' Milk. The fol-
lowing preparations are used freely as sub-
stitutes for asses' milk, and may be adminis-
tered in cases of consumption and general de-
bility, a tea-cupful 3 or 4 times a day, either
plain or with a spoonful of rum.
Mix the whites of 2 eggs with f pint new
cow's milk, and 1 ounce sugar; add |, ounce
syrup of tolu.
6290. Factitious Asses' Milk. Boil 1
ounce hartshorn shavings to a jelly in 1 pint
water, adding 2 ounces white sugar; when
cool add 1 pint new cow's milk aud £ ounce
syrup of tolu. Used as in the last receipt.
6291. Liqueur de la Grande Chart-
reuse. According to Dr. Chevalier, this cel-
ebrated liqueur, made at the Abbey of the
name, near Grenoble, is composed of essence
of melissa citrata, 31 grains; essence of hyssop,
31 grains; essence of angelica root, 154 grains;
essence of best mint, 309 grains ; essence of
nutmeg, 31 grains; essence of "cloves, 31 grains;
and 4i"pints rectified spirits of wine, of best
quality. The liquid is artificially colored,
either with turmeric or any other suitable '
material.
6292. Doppel Kummel. To 5 gallons
94 per cent, alcohol, add 4 ounces oil of cara-
way, ^ drachm (30 drops) oil of anise, 5 drops
oil of coriander, 5 drops oil of bitter almonds,
and 10 drops oil of calamus. Add 20 gallons
French proof spirit, and 15 gallons water in
which 10 pounds white sugar have been dis-
solved. This will make 40 gallons kummel
of a strength of 36f per cent. If for cordial,
more sugar may be added.
6293r To Improve Cheap Bourbon.
Inferior Bourbon whiskey may be much im-
proved in quality by the addition of the
peach flavoring given in ISTo. 6294. From 1
to li gallons of the flavoring should be added
to 40 gallons of whiskey. This will give it a
fruity taste.
6294. Peach Flavoring for Whiskey
by a New Method. Take a 50-gallon pipe ;
at 4 or 5 inches from the bottom place a false
bottom, perforated with J-inch holes. Cover
this false bottom with a thin layer of straw,
laid uniformly ; this again covered by a thin
even layer of straw laid at right angles across
the lower layer. Then pack 10 gallons dried
peaches regularly, without pressing them;
add 5 pounds black tea evenly sprinkled over
the peaches, and cover the whole with a
cloth. Next pack 10 gallons oak sawdust
evenly, and cover it also with a cloth. Place
some pieces of lath over the cloth, with some
middle-sized stones to keep the sawdust
down. Insert a faucet in the side of the
pipe, between the bottom and the false bot-
554,
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
torn. Now add 20 gallons proof spirit, and
draw off, three times every day, 15 gallons of
the tincture, and pour it back immediately.
As the sawdust acts as a filter, the tincture
will be ready for use and bright in 10 or 15
days. If a greater quantity is required,
double the above proportions and use a gin
cask.
6295. To Improve "Wine by Electric-
ity. The process consists in plunging into
the vat containing the wine, two plates of
platinum or of silver, having attached to
them two wires of the same metal, which are
connected with the poles of an electric bat-
tery. The Bunsen and Daniell's batteries are
much used in France for this purpose. The
time necessary to transform a low grade wine
to one of an agreeable and superior quality, is
from two to three weeks, with the battery
continually working. By this method, wines
which were considered only fit for making
vinegar, are changed to such an extent that
they are used as good, and in some cases su-
perior table wines. (See No. 726.)
6296. Pharaoh's Serpents Eggs are
made in the following way: Take mercury
and dissolve it in moderately dilute nitric
acid by means of heat, taking care, however,
that there be always an excess of metallic
mercury remaining ; decant the solution, and
pour it into a solution of sulpho- cyanide of
ammonium or potassium, which may be
bought at a good drug store, or of a dealer in
chemicals. Equal weights of both will answer.
A precipitate will fall to the bottom of the
beaker or jar, which is to be collected on a
filter and washed two or three times with wa-
ter, when it is put in a warm place to dry.
Take for every pound of this material 1 ounce
gum tragacanth which has been soaked in
hot water. "When the gum is completely soft-
ened it is to be transferred to a mortar,
and the pulverized and the dried precipitate
gradually mixed with it by means of a little
water, so as to present a somewhat dry pill
mass, from which pellets of the desired size
are formed by hand, put on a piece of glass,
and dried again ; they are then ready for use.
6297. Pharaoh's Serpents Eggs. A
substitute, nearly as good as the original mer-
cury compound, and superior in not being
poisonous, is prepared in the following way :
Take bichromate of potassa, 2 parts ; nitrate
of potassa, 1 part; white sugar, 3 parts.
Pulverize each of the ingredients separately,
and then mix them thoroughly. Make small
paper cones of the desired size, and press the
mixture into them. They are now ready
for use, but must be kept from moisture and
light.
6298. Solidified Glycerine for Toilet
Use. Transparent soap, 1 ounce; water, 4
ounces ; inodorous glycerine, 24 ounces. Dis-
solve the soap in the water by heat, adding
an equal weight of glycerine. "When dis-
1 solved, add the remaining portion of glycer-
' inc, and sufficient water to make up the
weight. When nearly cold, add any suitable
perfume and pour in glass jars. It has a very
pale amber color, is transparent, melts easily
on the skin, and leaves no residue.
6299. To Remedy a Scattering Gun.
To prevent a gun from scattering, insert a
ring about half an inch in width in the nozzle
of the gun, beveling from the outer edge to
nothing at the inward. It can be fastened in
with rivets. It should be made of metal about
t^ of an inch in thickness, and be fitted very
neatly.
6300. Preservation of Stone. Doctor
Eugene Eobert, of Paris, recommends copper
salts as being the best preservatives of stone
in a damp climate. These salts prevent the
formation of lichens, to the action of which
M. Eobert attributes the destruction of stone.
This is, without doubt, true for granite, but
its efficiency for sandstone is questionable.
The latter deteriorates by exfoliation, without
the development of any vegetation.
6301. Ground Tea. A French chemist
asserts that if tea be ground like coffee before
hot water is poured upon it, it will yield near-
ly double the amount of its exhilarating qual-
ities.
6302. To Impart a Fine Flavor to
Tea. To impart a fine flavor to ordinary
tea, place rose leaves in the tea-canister, or
add one drop of the attar of roses on a piece
of soft paper to every pound of tea, and keep
the canister closely covered.
6303. To Prevent St9ves From Bust-
ing. Kerosene applied with a rag to stoves
will keep them from rusting during the sum-
mer. It is also an excellent material to apply
to all iron utensils used about a farm.
6304. To Remove Pin-Spots from
Steel. Get a small iron box with a sliding top
to it, fill it with pulverized charcoal, and im-
bed the pieces of steel in it, put in the top,
and lute with fire-clay. Heat it in a slow fire,
to a red heat, then take out and let it cool off.
6305. Remedy Against the Cracking
of Wooden Taps and Faucets. This is
best prevented by putting the taps and fau-
cets in melting paraffine, and heating them
there at a temperature of 212° Fahr., until
bubbles of air cease to escape from the wood.
The whole is then allowed to cool to about
120° Fahr., when the taps are taken from the
bath and cleaned from the adhering paraffiue
by rubbing with a dry coarse piece of cloth.
* 6306. French Composition for Wash-
ing. Dissolve 1 pound hard soap in 6 gal-
lons of water, then add £ ounce spirits of tur-
pentine and £ ounce spirits of hartshorn.
6307. Cheap Family Soap. Add to 10
quarts of water, (3 pounds of quicklime (shell
lime is best), and 6 pounds common washing
soda. Put all together and boil for half an
hour, and let it stand all night to clear. Draw
off the lye, and add to it 1 pound common
resin and 7 pounds of fat (any fat will do).
Boil this for half an hour, then let it stand till
cool, and cut into bars.
6308. To Make a Bad Yellow Soap
Good and Hard. Heat a solution of 28
pounds hyposulphite of soda in 4 gallons wa-
ter, with 250 pounds of bad yellow or brown
soap, and the result will be a good hard soap.
This is Desborough's patent.
6309. To Preserve Soap Grease.
Fill a cask half full of good strong lye and
drop all refuse grease therein. Stir up the
mixture once a week.
6310. Waterproof Starch. This is a
French patent, and consists in passing the
goods, after being properly starched, through
a bath of chloride of zinc at a temperature
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
555
of about 60° Fahr. The starch mil then
remain in the clothes after several successive
•washings.
6311. Cement to Resist Sulphuric
Acid. Melt caoutchouc by a gentle heat,
add from 6 to 8 per cent, of the weight of tal-
low, taking care to keep the mass well stir-
red ; add dry slacked lime, so as to make the
fluid mass the consistency of soft paste ; and
lastly add 20 per cent, of red lead, whereby
the mass, which otherwise remains soft, be-
comes hard and dry. This cement resists,
according to Dr. Wagner, boiling sulphuric
acid. A solution of caoutchouc in twice its
weight of raw linseed oil, aided by heating,
and the addition thereto of an equal weight
of pipe-clay, yields a plastic mass which also
resists most acids.
6312. Cement for Fixing Glass Let-
ters. A thick solution of marine glue in
wood naphtha will answer perfectly if color is
no object. But the glass must be chemically
clean, and this is not always easy. The leas't
trace of soap or grease will spoil the adhesion
of any cement. Try soda or ammonia, fol-
lowed by whiting and water, clean cloths, and
plenty of rubbing, and let the cement dry on
the letters till the surface just begins to be
" tacky" before you apply them.
6313. New Process for Rendering
Cloth Waterproof. This is a method for
rendering fabrics waterproof without destroy-
ing their ventilating qualities. Place in a
metal vessel of about 6 gallons capacity, 20
pounds sulphate of alumina cut in thin slices;
and in another similar receptacle 8 pounds
oleic acid and 6 quarts alcohol. Thoroughly
dissolve the latter compound, and stir it with
a wooden stick for 20 minutes, gradually add-
ing the sulphate of alumina. Leave the whole
for about 24 hours to settle. The oleic acid
and the spirit will then be at the surface, and
can be decanted; the remaining deposit should
be filtered through flannel, and pressed into a
cake. This can be dried by heat, and ground
to a powder. For use on silken or linen
clothes, 1£ pounds to 20 gallons of water will
be ample ; wool will not require more than 1
pound. It is as well to strain these solutions,
and the fabrics require only to be thoroughly
saturated and dried in the air.
6314. To Clarify Quills. Cut off the
small top of the quills, tie them loosely in
bundles, fix them nearly upright in a sauce-
pan of water in which a small piece of alum
has been dissolved, about the size of a walnut
of alum to a quart of water; let them boil
slowly until they become clear; add a little
turmeric or a small pinch of saffron to the
water, to give them the yellow color; dry
them in the sun. Tie paper round the feather
part of the quills, to keep them from dust.
The quantity of alum may be increased ac-
cording as you wish the quills more or less
brittle.
6315. New Glazing for Frescoes. Dr.
Vohl announces that parafHne, mixed with
benzole or Canada balsam, affords a glazing
for frescoes much superior to soluble glass.
By covering the interior of wine casks with
a film of pure white parafBne, poured in
melted, he has effectually prevented the spoil-
ing of the wine and its evaporation through
the wood.
6316. To Bend Gas Pipe. This may
be done by filling the pipe with melted resin.
When the resin hardens, bend the pipe, and it
will retain its round form. Remove the resin
by heating.
631 7. Chewing Gum is made as follows :
Take of prepared balsam of tolu, 2 ounces
(see second receipt in No. 5102) ; white sugar,
1 ounce ; oatmeal, 3 ounces. Soften the gum
in a water-bath and mix in the ingredients ;
then roll in finely-powdered sugar or flour, to
form sticks to suit. «
6318. Chewing Gum from Paramne.
This article may be made by dissolving paraf-
fine at a gentle heat in a very little olive oil
and glycerine. It is stirred on cooling, and
afterwards compressed. The amount of gly-
cerine depends on the consistency to be
desired, and must be determined by the char-
acter of the paramne employed. This latter
consists of mixtures of various carbo-hydrides,
and is by no means always of the same com-
position and properties. The glycerine will
keep it soft and make it sweet at the same
time.
6319. Boot Powder. Scraped or pow-
dered French chalk is used by bootmakers to
make new boots or shoes go on easily, by
rubbing or dusting a little of it on the inside
of the heel and instep of the boot.
6320. Electric Tissue. Steep linen or
cotton 1 hour in a mixture of 1 part strong
sulphuric acid and 3 of pure nitric acid;
squeeze out the acid, wash with water until
no sensible acidity remains, plunge it in a
weak alkaline solution, then in water, and dry.
By friction it yields a large quantity of resin-
ous electricity.
6321. To Make Modeling Clay.
Knead dry clay with glycerine instead of
water, and a mass is obtained which continues
moist and plastic for a length of time, thus
removing one of the greatest inconveniences
experienced by the modeler.
6322. To Remove Stains from Knives.
The very best way to clean a stained steel
knife is to cut a solid potato in two, dip one
of the pieces in brick-dust (such as is usually
used for knife-cleaning), and rub the blade
with it.
6323. To Prevent Ivory Knife Han-
dles from Cracking. When the blades of
knives require washing or standing in water,
it should be done in a pitcher, with water
enough to cover the blades, but not to touch
the handles ; and the water no hotter than is
absolutely necessary. Soaking the handles iu
water makes them crack.
6324. To Cleanse Goose Feathers.
Feathers arc prepared by exposing them to
the sunshine or in a stove until perfectly dry,
and then beating them to remove dust and
loose dirt. "When carelessly collected and
dirty, they may bo cleansed with lime-water ;
or, still better, with a weak solution of car-
bonate of soda, or with water containing a
little solution of chloride of lime ; after which
they are rinsed in clean water, and dried as
before. (See No. 659.) Old feathers arc puri-
fied and cleansed in tho same way.
6325. Coloring Castor Oil. Make a
strong tincture of turmeric root with strong
alcohol, and add a few drops to the oil until
you have the desired color. Rather than being
556
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
a disadvantage, it will prove a benefit, tend-
ing to prevent griping.
6326. Labels for Damp Situations.
"Write on the back of adhesive plaster. Labels
made of this substance are not affected by
damp, and adhere strongly.
6327. To Reproduce a Beautiful
"White on Flannel Goods Turned Yellow
by Age. For the restoration of old flannels
to their original color, Professor Artus recom-
mends the following method: Dissolve 2J
pounds white Marseilles soap in 75 pounds
soft water, and to the solution add, under con-
stant stirring, 1 ounce liquor ammonia. The
goods are soaked in this fluid, and afterwards
well washed with water. The object may be
accomplished, however, more quickly, by put-
ting the goods for 1 hour in a dilute solution
of bisulphite of soda, and adding, under con-
stant stirring, some dilute hydrochloric acid,
when the vessel has to be covered and the
goods left in it for 15 minutes longer. They
are then thoroughly washed in water.
6328. Sizing for Holland Linen. The
sizing or dressing employed for the Holland
used for window shades is prepared as follows :
Take 1 part crystallized carbonate of soda; 4
to 6 parts each white wax, stearine, and pure
white soap ; 20 parts carbonate of magnesia
or fine Paris white ; 40 parts potato starch,
and 160 parts fine wheat starch. Boil these
together with sufficient water to make 1600
parts altogether. A little xiltramarine is
added, if needed, to counteract the yellow
tint of the linen, which is starched with this
? reparation, passed between rollers, and dried,
t is then sprinkled with soap water, placed
in a stamping mill, and afterwards steamed
and calendered.
6329. Starch Lustre is a substance used
for washing purposes, which, when added to
starch, causes the linen to which it is applied
to assume not only a high polish, but a daz-
zling whiteness. A piece of lustre of the size
of a copper cent added to \ pound starch, and
boiled with it for 2 or 3 minutes, will produce
the best results. The starch lustre consists
of stearine, colored by a slight addition of
ultramarine blue, the essential ingredient
being the stearine ; and, with or without the
coloring matter, will be found to add very
much to the beauty of linen articles to which
it is applied. (See Nos. 497, $c.)
6330. To Clean Windows and Mir-
rors. Tie up some finely powdered whiting
in a small piece of muslin. Dab it over the
glass thoroughly ; the dirtier the glass the
more whiting will adhere to it. E"ext smear
it evenly with a damp rag, and let it remain
until perfectly dry ; then rub it off with a
leather. This is an easy, clean, and thorough
plan. If alcohol be used instead of water, it
will dry in much less time, and polishes the
glass fully better. The corners of the window-
panes should receive particular attention;
they are too often left dirty, and spoil the ap-
pearance of the window.
6331. To Wash Mirrors or Windows.
For washing finger-marks from looking-
glasses or windows, put a few drops of am-
monia on a moist rag, and make quick work
of it.
6332. Ganteine. A composition for
cleaning kid gloves; sometimes improperly
termed Saponinc. Dissolve 3 troy ounces
soap by heat in 2 ounces water, and when
nearly cold add 2 ounces javelle water and 1
drachm water of ammonia; form a paste,
whi ;h is to be rubbed over the glove with
flannel till sufficiently clean.
6333. To Clean and Preserve Brew-
ing Utensils. In cleaning them before
being put away, avoid the use of soap, or any
greasy material, and use only a brush and
scalding water, being particularly careful not
to leave any yeast or fur on the sides ; then
place them away in a clean and moderately
dry situation. Should they become tainted
or mouldy, take a strong lye of pearlash,
which spread over the bottoms of the vessels
scalding hot, and then with the broom scrub
the sides and other parts. Or: Take common
salt and spread it over the coolers, <fec., and
strew some on their wet sides, pour in scald-
ing water and scrub them with a broom. Or:
Throw some quicklime into water in the ves-
sel, and scrub over the bottom and sides with
it ; in each case well washing afterwards with
clean water. Or : "Wash well first with oil of
vitriol diluted with 8 times its weight of wa-
ter, and afterwards with clean water.
6334. To Restore the Color of an
Acid Stain on Violet Silk. Acid dropped
on violet-colored silk destroys the color ; to
restore it, brush the discolored stain with
tincture of iodine ; then, after a few seconds,
saturate the spot well with a solution of hy-
posulphite of soda, and dry gradually; the
color will bo perfectly restored.
6335. To Transfer Engravings onto
Glass. First coat the glass with copal var-
nish, then press on the picture, face down-
wards, smoothly and tightly; let it dry.
Next damp the paper slightly, and rub it off
with the finger, leaving the picture to be
looked at through the glass.
6336. To Transfer Engravings on
Wood, Stone, &c. Take a saturated alco-
holic solution of potash, pour the solution on
the engraving, and immediately remove all
the superfluous liquid by means of blotting
paper. Lay the engraving, while damp, upon
the wood or other material to which it is to
be transferred, and place it in a press. (A
copper-plate press is the best.) The trans-
fer will be obtained immediately. The engra-
ving must be immersed in clear, cold water,
after removal from the potash bath. (Orr.)
6337. How to Wash Printing Rollers.
Avoid all grit, fund, and dirt; simply use
strong ley to loosen the ink, and quickly,
with a soft sponge, wash the ley off with
water (in winter blood-warm) squeezing the
sponge dry, face up the roller, so that no
moisture remain therepn. Let it then stand
exposed to the air one hour, machine rollers
two hours, before distributing ink on its sur-
face. The time for exposure must be guided
by the state of the weather, as shorter time
will do in dry or windy weather. Be careful
to ink the roller as soon as possible after
exposure, to keep it tacky. (Sec No. 2542.)
6338. Gelatine Capsules. A strong
solution is made of 6 parts gelatine and 1 part
sugar; the extremity of a rod of bulbous
shape is oiled, and dipped into the solution;
when the rod is withdrawn it is rotated, in
order to diffuse the fluid jelly equally over its
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
557
surface ; as soon as the gelatinous film has
partially hardened, it is removed from the
mould and placed on pins furnished with
suitable heads, and fixed on a cork table.
When dry, the capsules are placed upright in
little cells made in the table to receive them,
and the liquid with which they are to be
filled is introduced by means of a small glass
tube. They are then closed by dropping
some melted gelatine on the orifice of each.
Ricord recommends that capsules containing
copaiba be coated with extract of rhatany,
which is easily done by immersing the capsule
far an instant in a mixture of 3 parts newly
prepared extract of rhatany, 1 part syrup of
moist sugar, and 1 part mucilage of gum ara-
bic, melted together in a water-bath. Cap-
sules thus prepared are said to act with greater
certainty, as well as improving the tone of
the stomach.
6339. To Remove Nitrate of Silver
Stains. A solution of iodide of potassium
will freely dissolve iodine. Silver stains
moistened for a while with this solution will
be converted into iodide of silver, which is sol-
uble iu iodide of potassium. The stains will
therefore have disappeared when the cloth,
after the foregoing treatment, is washed in
water. (See No. 385.) Perhaps the best
method of removing these stains is as follows:
The stained cloth is washed with a concentra-
ted solution of sulphate or chloride of zinc
and then touched with a piece of metallic
zinc. This same process may bo used for the
removal of ink stains in both cases without
danger to the fabric. After the color has
disappeared, they are washed first with pure
water and then with water and soap. No
visible traces of the stains are left behind.
(See No. 3141.)
6340. To Remove Nitrate of Silver
Stains from Woven Tissues. According
to M. Grimm, chloride of copper completely
removes, even from colored woven cotton
tissues, stains occasioned by nitrate of silver;
the tissue is to be afterwards washed with a
solution of hyposulphite of soda, and next
thoroughly washed with water. From white
cotton and linen tissues, nitrate of silver
stains are more readily and effectually re-
moved by applying dilute solution of perman-
ganate of potassa and hydrochloric acid, fol-
lowed by washing with hyposulphite of soda
solution, and rinsing in plenty of fresh water.
By these means the use of the highly poison-
ous cyanide of potassium is rendered unneces-
sary. (Sec Nos. 385 and 3141).
6341. To Dissolve Old Blood Stains.
Dr. Hehvig recommends a solution of iodide
of potassium in four times its weight of
water.
6342. Silk Cleaner. Mix well together
i pound soft soap, a tea-spoonful of brandy, 5
pint proof-spirit, and 5 pint water. It is to
be spread with a sponge on each side of the
silk without creasing it ; the silk is then rins-
ed out 2 or 3 times, and ironed on the wrong
side. (See No. 460.)
6343. Fluid for Removing Grease
Stains from Silk, &c. A fluid for remov-
ing greasy stains from silk, &c., may be pre-
pared by mixing 2 ounces rectified spirits of
turpentine, i ounce absolute alcohol, and
ounce sulphuric ether.
6344. To Remove the Stains of Ben-
zine. In removing grease spots from fabrics
by means of benzine or petroleum it often
happens that a colored and stained outline of
the portion moistened is left. This can be
prevented by the application of a layer of
gypsum extending a little beyond the moist-
ened region. When dry, the powder is to be
shaken and brushed off, when no trace of the
spot will remain.
6345. To Clean Silver. To clean silver
utensils, blackened by sulphuretted hydrogen,
Boettger recommends a boiling saturated solu-
tion of borax, or a solution ol caustic potash,
with some fragments of metallic zinc.
6346. To Clean a Wedgwood Mortar.
A solution of caustic potash will usually be
effectual ; this may be triturated in the mor-
tar with fine sand or powdered pumice-stone.
Sometimes sulphuric acid will serve a better
purpose. Chlorinated lime (chloride of lime)
will sometimes remove the color where it is a
stain merely.
6347. To Dye Gutta-Percha. Dissolve
1 ounce gutta-percha in chloroform, and add £
grain of pure carmine, previously mixed with
a little powdered gum and water ; then distill
off the chloroform and knead well the re-
maining gutta-percha. In the same way ul-
tramarine, ochre, oxide of chrome, <fcc., may
be used.
6348. To Clean Gutta-Percha. This
can be done by using a mixture of soap and
powdered charcoal, polishing afterwards with
a dry cloth with a little of the charcoal on it.
6349. To Dye Straw Hats Black.
The following is given as a black color for
straw hats. The quantities of material are
intended for 25 hats or bonnets. They are
kept for 2 hours in a boiling decoction of 4
pounds logwood, 1 pound sumach, and 5 oun-
ces fustic ; and afterwards dipped into a so-
lution of nitrate of iron of 4° Baume, then
well rinsed with water, and, when dry, are
painted over with a solution of lac or dex-
trine.
6350. To Dye Leather Yellow, tic-
ric acid gives a good yellow without any
mordant; it must be used in very dilute solu-
tion, and not warmer than 70° Fahr., so as
not to penetrate the leather.
6351. To Dye Leather Green. Ani-
line blue modifies picric acid to a fine green.
In dyeing the leather, the temperature of 85°
Fahr. must never be exceeded.
. 6352. To Dye Leather Green. Aniline
green is well adapted to dyeing leather, and
its application is quite simple. "Whether
used in paste or as powder, we must make a
concentrated aqueous solution. The leather
is brushed over with a solution of sulphate of
ammonia, mixed with water, the dye solution
applied at 95° Fahr., and it must be endeav-
ored, by rapid manipulation, to prevent the
dye from penetrating through the leather.
By the addition of picric acid, the blueish
shade of this dye-stuff is modified to leaf
green, and it becomes faster ; but the picrio
acid must not be added to the color solution ;
it must be applied to the leather before or
after the dyeing with aniline green. (Spring-
tnuhl.)
6353. Slating for Black-Boards. The
imitations of slate are of two kinds, real iioi-
558
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
tations, consisting of pulverized slate or
quartz rock moistened to the consistency of a
thick fluid with silicate of soda (water-glass of
commerce), and applied to the boards by
means of a brush ; or merely paints, such as
asphaltum or Grahamite dissolved in petro-
leum naphtha. The first one will produce
slates that are very similar to the natural
elates, less expensive than those, and last a
good while.
6354. Asphalt for Walks. Take 2
parts very dry lime rubbish, and 1 part coal-
ashes, also very dry, and both sifted fine. In
a dry place, on a dry day, mix them, and
leave a hole in the middle of the heap, as
bricklayers do when making mortar. Into
this pour boiling hot coal-tar ; mix, and when
as stiff as mortar put it 3 inches thick where
the walk is to be ; the ground should be dry,
and beaten smooth. Sprinkle over it coarse
sand. "When cold, pass a light roller over it ;
in a few days the walk will be solid and
waterproof.
6355. To Make Gravel Walks. The
bottom should be laid with lime-rubbish,
large flint stones, or any other hard matter,
for 8 or 10 inches, to keep weeds from grow-
ing through, and over this the gravel is to be
laid 6 or 8 inches thick. This should be laid
rounding up in the middle, by which means
the larger stones will run off to the sides, and
may be raked away ; for the gravel should
never be screened before it is laid on. It is a
common mistake to lay these walks too round,
which not only makes them uneasy to walk
upon, but takes off from their apparent
breadth. 1 inch in 5 feet is a sufficient pro-
portion for the rise in the middle ; so that a
walk 20 feet wide should be 4 inches higher
at the middle than at the edges, and so in
proportion. As soon as the gravel is laid, it
should be raked, and the large stones thrown
back again ; then the whole should be rolled
both lengthwise and crosswise ; and the per-
son who draws the roller should wear shoes
without heels, that he may make no holes, be-
cause holes made in a new walk are not easily
remedied. The walks should always be rolled
3 or 4 times 'after very hard showers, which
will bind them more firmly than could be ac-
complished by any other method.
6356. Polishing Powder for Specula.
Precipitate a dilute solution of sulphate of
iron by ammonia in excess ; wash the precip-
itate, press it in a screw press till nearly dry,
then expose it to heat until it appears of a
dull red color in the dark. (Lord Ross.)
6357. To Make a Voltaic Pile. Take
disks of copper, zinc, and woolen cloth of any
size, soak the cloth in a solution of sal-ammo-
niac, then pile them up in the following
order: Copper, zinc, cloth, and so on. The
relative position of the metals in each pair
must be observed throughout the whole series,
so that, if the pile commences with a copper
plate, it shall terminate with a zinc one.
These two extremes are called the poles.
Zinc is called the positive pole, and copper
the negative pole. The outer disks are con-
nected with copper wire, that the electric or
galvanic stream which is excited in the pile
may be conveyed to any place desired. When
the two ends of the wires are brought very
near to each other, sparks are seen to dart
from one to the other; this is a token of the
galvanic current, manifesting itself in the
same manner as the current of the electrical
machine. The larger the disks and the
greater their number, the greater is the inten-
sity of the current.
6358. To Make a Cistern. A good
cistern can be made in a solid clay soil, if
not in an exposed situation, by cementing
against the sides of the ground. Where the
ground freezes we would not recommend
such a practice, but lay a wall of cobble-
stones in a mortar of cement, and face the
wall with a thick coating of clear mortar.
Great care must be exercised to get good ce-
ment, and mix it with coarse sand. Fine
sand will not do at all. 1 part cement and 3
parts sand is the usual proportion, to be used
as soon as mixed. Every part of the wall
must be laid below the reach of the frost.
This can be done, and an iron or wooden pine
or throat lead to the surface, through whicn
the pump can pass. A cheap and excellent
cistern can be constructed of wood, in the
form of a large cask, or a tank made of pine
or cedar plank. When sunk into the ground,
and kept constantly wet, it will last for years.
A better way is to place the tank or cask in
one corner of the cellar, with a faucet in the
bottom, from which the water is easily drawn
when it is desirable to clean it out and when
water is required in the cellar. An open cis-
tern in a cellar will rarely freeze.
6359. To Purify Water. Chloride of
iron and carbonate of soda, in the proportion
of 10 parts by weight of the former salt and
26£ of the latter to a quantity of water equal
to 20,000 parts, has been found a most valua-
ble and quite innocuous means of purifying
water, even such as is otherwise quite unfit
for drinking purposes, and could not be ren-
dered fit by alum. The salts alluded to are
best previously dissolved in some pure water,
and the solutions, that of iron first, poured
into the tank containing the water intended to
be operated upon. The soda solution is not
added until after a few moments, the water
being first vigorously stirred. The soda solu-
tion having been added, the fluid is stirred
again, and then left quiet for the purpose of
allowing the very bulky and floculent sedi-
ment to deposit; this takes considerable
time — from 24 to 36 hours.
6360. Gutta-Percha Tissue. If a so-
lution of gutta-percha in chloroform be mixed
with 3 parts of ether and exposed for some
time to a temperature below 15° Fahr., the
gutta-percha will be precipitated as a white
powder, forming, when washed and dried, a
soft white mass. If some of this solution be
spread on a plate of glass, a skin is formed, re-
sembling kid-glove leather, which becomes
transparent on the application of heat. These
films are beautifully white if carefully pre-
pared, and have been employed in the manu-
facture of the finest kinds of artificial flowers.
6361. Mosaic Silver. Take 2 parts
each pure tin and purified bismuth, melt them
together by a moderate heat, and add 1 part
purified mercury. When cold reduce the
mass to a fine powder. (Eager.)
6362. Mosaic Gold. Melt 12 ounces
pure tin, by a gentle heat, add 6 ounces mer-
cury, and reduce to powder ; when cold, add
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
559
6 ources muriate of ammonia, and 7 ounces
flowers of sulphur; mix thoroughly. Place
tho compound in a glass flask, and gradually
heat to redness in a sand-bath, continuing the
heat till all white fumes cease; during this
operation bisulphuret of mercury, muriate of
tin and sal-ammoniac are sublimed, leaving
the mosaic gold at the bottom of the flask in
soft, brilliant, gold-colored flakes. Mosaic
gold, also called Aurum Musivum, is therefore
the bisulphuret of tin. (Cooley.}
6363. To Preserve Pencil and Indian
Ink Sketches. To a solution of collodion
of the consistency used by photographers,
add 2 per cent, of stearine. The drawing is
then spread on a board or plate of glass and
the collodion poured over it as in photography.
(Sec No. 3143.) It dries in 10 to 20 minutes,
and so thoroughly protects the drawing that
it may be washed without fear of injury.
6364. Golden Compound. Melt anhy-
drous tungstate of soda in a porcelain crucible,
over a spirit lamp, at a temperature not more
than sufficient to fuse it. Add small pieces of
pure tin to the melted mass, and cubes of a
golden color instantly form. The process
should not be continued too long, or they ac-
quire a purple hue.
6365. Ink for Writing on Tin Plates.
Mix together without heat, 1 part pine soot,
with 60 parts of an aqueous solution of nitrate
of copper. (Rafter.)
6366. Black Stencil Ink. Triturate
together 1 part pine soot and 2 parts Prussian
blue with a little glycerine, then add 3 parts
gum arabic, and sufficient glycerine to form a
thin paste.
6367. Factitious Beef Marrow. Mix
together, by dissolving at a gentle heat, 2
parts fresh hogs' lard and 1 part cacao
butter.
6368. To Obtain Absolute Alcohol.
A German savant has recently improved on
the well-known method employed by Men-
delejeff, for obtaining absolute alcohol.
Strong alcohol is boiled with quicklime, the
pieces of the latter projecting above the sur-
face of the liquid for •£ hour or more, with a
condenser inverted so that the liquid may re-
turn by its own gravity to the flask. The
condenser is then reversed, and the alcohol
redistilled. If the alcohol contains more
than 5 per cent, of water, the process must be
repeated 2 or 3 times. The vessel should
only be half filled with the pieces of lime, as
the rapid formation of hydrate of lime may
break it to pieces. (See No. 1442.)
6369. Bougie. A long slender instru-
ment, introduced into the urethra, oesopha-
gus, or rectum, to overcome strictures of
those canals. Add 3 parts boiled linseed oil
to 1 part melted amber, and when mixed add
1 part oil of turpentine ; spread the mixture
at 3 successive intervals upon loose spun silk
cord or web, dry in a heat of 150° Fahr., and
repeat the process until the instrument has
acquired the proper size, then polish, first
with pumice-stone, and afterwards with tripo-
li and oil. This is the original receipt of the
French Professor Pickel, and is still generally
used in Europe, slightly modified ' as fol-
lows : Add to the oil and amber, melted to-
gether as last, caoutchouc in the proportion
of 5^ of the weight of the oil employed ;
when dissolved, remove the vessel from the
fire and proceed as before.
6370. Hunter's Bougie. Boil slowly
together, until combination takes place, 2
parts yellow wax, 3 parts red lead, and 6 parts
olive oil ; strips of soft linen, rather wider at
one end than the other, are then dipped into
the composition, rolled up firmly, and finish-
ed on a polished slab.
6371. Catheters, or Hollow Bougies.
These are made of the same composition as
the ordinary bougies, but a piece of polished
metallic wire is introduced into the axis of the
silk ; or tinfoil is rolled round the wire and
the composition applied as before.
6372. Caoutchouc, or Elastic Gum
Bougies. These are made by applying an
ethereal solution of india-rubber to the silk or
foil prepared as in the foregoing methods.
"Where ether is expensive naphtha is employ-
ed, but it furnishes a very inferior product.
Sometimes slips of india-rubber previously
boiled in water, or that have had their edges
softened with ether, are wound round tho
wire or foil, and kept in their place by a piece
of tape applied over them, as in making elas-
tic tubes. They are afterwards carefully
smoothed off and polished.
6373. To Prevent Lamp Chimneys
from Cracking. Put the chimneys into a
kettle of cold water, and gradually heat it
until it boils, and then let it as gradually cool ;
the chimneys will not be broken by the ordi
nary fluctuation of the flame of the lamp.
6374. To Mend Bubber Overshoes,
&c. Rub the patch and shoe thoroughly
with sharp sand paper. Smear both with
liquid rubber 5 times, every time letting them
dry. Do this once more, and, before they
dry, apply the patch, with pressure if possi-
ble, and the boot is mended. If liquid rubber
is not obtainable, dissolve small pieces of pure
rubber (not vulcanized), in warm spirits of tur-
pentine, to the consistence of syrup.
6375. To Preserve and Restore Oil
Paintings. Many valuable paintings suffer
premature decay from the attacks of a mi-
croscopic insect of the mite class. The best
method of preventing this species of decay
is to add a few drops of creosote to the paste
and glue used to line the picture, as well as to
make a similar addition to the varnish. If it
has already commenced, the painting should
be at once carefully cleaned and relined, ob-
serving to employ a little creosote in the way
just mentioned. Paintings should be kept in
as pure an atmosphere as possible, and in a
moderately dry situation ; as it is the pres-
ence of sulphuretted hydrogen in the air that
blackens the " lights, " and causes most of
tho middle tints and shades to fade ; and it is
exposure to damp that produces mouldiness
and decay of the canvas. For this reason
valuable paintings should not be kept in
churches, nor suspended against heavy walls
of masonry, especially in badly ventilated
buildings. Excess of light, particularly the
direct rays of the sun, also acts injuriously on
paintings. The blackened lights of old pic-
tures may be instantly restored to their origi-
nal hue by touching them with deutoxide of
hydrogen, diluted with 6 or 8 times its weight
of water. The part must be afterwards washed
with a clean sponge and water.
560
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
6376. Compressed. Leather. A new
process for using the clippings and refuse from
saddlers' and shoemakers' shops is as fol
lows: The leather shavings are washed
clean, cut up fine, and soaked in water and
sulphuric acid, 1 per cent, of the acid being
sufficient. The immersion must continue till
the shavings become plastic, and the leather
then can be pressed into moulds with only a
moderate amount of pressure. It can be
rolled into thin sheets, and will be useful for
many purposes ; it will not, however, resist
moisture. A little glycerine rubbed in will
prevent its cracking.
6377. To Bender Walls Water-tight.
It is proposed by Mr. F. Eansome, of Lon-
don, to render stone and brick walls water-
proof by coating them to saturation with a
solution of silicate of soda, which is superfi-
cially decomposed by the further application
of chloride of calcium. The surface thus
obtained consists of silicate of lime, which is
perfectly insoluble, and therefore water-tight,
while it does not alter the appearance of the
wall. (See No. 2171.)
6378. To Wash Silks. No person
should ever wring or crush a piece of silk
When it is wet, because the creases thus made
will remain forever if the silk is thick and
hard. The way to wash silk is to spread it
smoothly upon a clean board, rub white soap
upon it, and brush it with a clean hard brush.
The silk nntst be rubbed until all the grease
is extracted, then the soap should be brushed
.off with clean cold water, applied to both
sides. The cleansing of silk is a very nice
operation. Most of the colors are liable to
be extracted with washing in hot suds, espe-
cially blue and green colors. A little alum,
dissolved in the last water that is brushed on
eilk, tends to prevent the colors from running.
Alcohol and camphene, mixed together, are
used for removing grease from silk.
6379. To Extinguish Fires. Dr. Clan-
ny's solution consists of 5 ounces sal-ammo-
niac to 1 gallon water. The compound used
in Phillip's Fire Annihilator is said to consist
of dried prussiate of potash, sugar, and chlor-
ate of potash.
6380. To Prevent Mouldiness. The
best preventive is any of the essential oils, as
the oil of lavender, cloves, peppermint, &c.
Eussia leather, which is scented with the tar
of the birch tree, is not subject to mouldiness,
and books bound in it will even prevent
mouldiness in other books bound in calf, near
which they happen to lie.
6381. To Keep Gum-Arabic from
Moulding. Solutions of gum-arabic soon
mould and sour, and finally lose their adhe-
sive property. It is said that sulphate of
quinine will prevent this, while it imparts no
bad odor of its own. The addition of a solu-
tion of a few crystals of this salt to gum-ara-
bic will prevent the formation of mould quite
as effectually as carbolic acid, and by analogy
it is safe to suppose that the same salt could
be used in wilting ink, mucilage, and, possibly,
glue.
6382. To Prevent the Formation of
a Crust in Tea-kettles. Keep an oyster-
shell in your tea-kettle. By attracting the
stony particles to itself, it will prevent the
formation of a crust.
6383. Bird Lime. Boil the middle bark
of the holly 7 or 8 hours in water ; drain it,
and lay it in heaps in the ground, covered
with stones, for 2 or 3 weeks, till reduced to
a mucilage. Beat this in a mortar, wash it in
rain water, and knead it till free from extra-
neous matters. Put it into earthen pots, and
in 4 or 5 days it will be fit for use. An infe-
rior kind is made by boiling linseed oil for some
hours, until it becomes a viscid paste.
6384. Substitutes for Lenses. Pro-
cure a piece of thin platinum wire, and twino
it once or twice round a pin's point, so as to
form a minute ring with a handle to it. Break
up a piece of flint glass into fragments a little
larger than mustard seed ; place one of these
pieces on the ring of wire, and hold it in the
point of the flame of a candle or gas-light.
The glass will melt and assume a complete
lens-like or globular form. Let it cool grad-
ually, and keep it for mounting. Others are
to be made in the same manner ; and if the
operation be carefully conducted but very
few will be imperfect. The smaller the drop
melted, the higher in general will be its mag-
nifying power. It may be mounted by plac-
ing it between two pieces of brass -which
have corresponding circular holes cut in them,
of such size as to hold the edge of the lens.
They are then to be cemented together. A
perfectly round glass globe filled with pure
water also makes a powerful lens.
6385. Ether Glue. An excellent liquid
glue is made by dissolving glue in nitric ether.
The ether will only dissolve a certain amount
of glue, consequently the solution cannot be
made very thick. The glue thus made is
about the consistency of molasses, and is
doubly as tenacious as that made with hot
water. If a few bits of india-rubber, cut into
scraps the size of buck-shot, be added, and
the solution be allowed to stand a few days,
being stirred frequently, it will be all the
better, and will resist dampness twice as well
as glue made with water.
6386. Brick-Dust Cement. Ordinary
brick dust, made from hard burned, finely-
pulverized bricks, and mixed with common
lime and sand, is a good substitute for hy-
draulic cement. The proportions used in
general practice are 1 part brick-dust and 1 of
lime to 2 of sand, mixed together dry, and
tempered with water in the usual way.
6387. Cement for a Crack in a Cast-
iron Pot. If the crack be in the bottom of
the pot, drill a hole at each extreme end of
the crack, to stop further cracking, plug rivet
the holes with copper, and, with fine iron fil-
ings saturated with urine, caulk the crack.
This method has been tried on oil-pots on
board whale phips with success.
6388. The Drummond Light. This
brilliant light is produced by directing a
stream of oxygen gas, passing through the
flame of a spirit lamp, upon a small ball of
quicklime of about | inch in diameter. It
gives an intense light; and, placed in the fo-
cus of a parabolic mirror, has been distinctly
seen at a distance of 60 miles.
6389. Doebereiner's Self-Igniting
Lamp. Take an ordinary fruit jar, with a
cork stopper or leaden cover; procure any
old bottle that will go into the jar, at least
two thirds as tall as the jar. Cut off the bot-
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
561
torn of the bottle either with a file or by
wrapping a piece of candle-wick soaked in
alcohol around it, burning the wick, and dip-
ping in water while hot. (See Nos. 2367, ^-c.)
A hole is cut in the cork or lead cover, to
admit the neck of the bottle and prevent it
resting on the bottom of the jar. The bottle
is closed with a cork fitted with a short glass
tube bent at right angles and drawn to a fine
opening. Some pieces of zinc are suspended
in the bottle by a wire or little basket of lead.
The jar is then filled to about one-half with
dilute sulphuric acid. The acid, coming in
contact with the zinc, generates hydrogen
gas, which escapes from the glass tube. The
mixture of air and gas being highly explo-
sive, the lamp should not be ignited until all
the air has been expelled. After the air has
escaped, a piece of spongy platinum may be
placed a little distance from the point of the
tube. The gas, impinging on the platinum,
heats it sufficiently to ignite itself. The es-
cape of gas may be cut off by slipping a rub-
ber tube closed at one end over the glass tube,
or a tube with a stop-cock may be used. As
soon as the escape of gas is cut off, its pres-
sure drives the acid out of the bottle into the
jar, and no more gas is generated. Pieces of
spongy platinum mounted on wires suitable
for this use may be obtained of dealers in
chemical apparatus. The lamp may also be
purchased complete from the same parties.
6390. Pencils for Writing on Glass.
Take 4 parts stearic acid, 3 parts mutton suet,
and 2 parts wax; melt them together and
add 6 parts red lead and 1 part purified car-
bonate of potassa, previously thoroughly
triturated together. Set the mixture aside
for an hour in a warm situation, stirring fre-
quently, then pour it into glass tubes or hol-
low reeds.
6391. Elastic Cement. Dissolve 1
drachm gutta-percha in 1 ounce or more bi-
sulphide of carbon, so as to make a fluid that
will easily pass through coarse filtering paper.
After filtering, add about 15 grains pure india-
rubber, and let it dissolve; or, when it has
become soft and gelatinous, quickly rub the
whole smooth with a palette knife on a slab.
6392. To Mend a Balloon or Gas-Bag.
Paint 4 or more coats of the varnish described
in the last receipt, around the hole in the bag,
allowing each coat to dry before the applica-
tion of the next. Treat a piece of fine strong
muslin in the same way. The last coat on
each should be pretty thick, and, when nearly
dry, apply the patch to the bag, and press
evenly and quite firmly together. "When at
last the whole is dry, press with a warm iron,
and then paint the surface of the new piece
with a coat or two of the varnish. If nicely
done, the bag will be as strong as ever.
Chloroform may be used in place of the bisul-
phide of carbon.
6393. Improvement in Ink-Erasers.
The Great Lightning Ink-Eraser may be used
instead of a knife or scraper for erasing ink,
in order to rectify a mistake or clean off a
blot without injury to the paper, leaving the
paper as clean and good to write upon as it
was before the mistake or blot was made, and
without injury to the printer's ink upon any
printed form, or the ruling upon any first-class
paper. Take of chloride of lime 1 pound,
thoroughly pulverized, and 4 quarts soft wa-
ter. The above must be thoroughly shaken
when first put together. It is required to
stand 24 hours to dissolve the chloride of
lime; then strain through a cotton cloth;
after which add a tea-spoonful of acetic acid
(No. 8 commercial) to every ounce of the
chloride of lime water. The eraser is used
by reversing the pen-holder in the hand, dip-
ping the end of the pen-holder into the fluid,
and applying it, without rubbing, to the
word, figure, or blot required to be erased.
"When the ink has disappeared, absorb the
fluid with a blotter, and the paper is imme-
diately ready to write upon again. Chloride
of lime has before been -used with acids for
the purpose as above proposed; but in all
previous processes the chloride of lime has
been mixed with acids that burn and destroy
the paper.
6394. To Preserve Clothes Pins.
Clothes pins boiled a few moments and
quickly dried, once or twice a month, become
more flexible and durable. Clothes lines will
last longer and keep in better order if occa-
sionally treated in the same way.
6395. To Fasten Loose Window
Sashes. The most convenient way to pre-
vent loose window sashes from rattling un-
pleasantly when the wind blows is to make
four one-sided buttons of wood, and screw
them to the beading which is nailed to the
casings of the window, making each button
of proper length to press the side of the sash
outwards when the end of the button is
turned down horizontally. The buttons ope-
rate like a cam. By having them of the cor-
rect length to crowd the stiles of the sash
outwards against the outer stop of the win-
dow frame, the sash will not only be held so
firmly that it cannot rattle, but the crack
which admitted dust and a current of cold
air will be closed so tightly that no window
strips will be required. The buttons should
be placed about half way between the upper
and lower end of each sash.
6396. To Detect a Counterfeit Bank
of England Note. The Bank of England
possesses no security which may not be known
by any person who will make himself ac-
quainted with the following characteristics of
the paper, the plate printing and the type print-
ing of the note. The paper is distinguished :
By its peculiar color, such as is neither sold
in the stores nor used for any other purpose.
By its thinness and transparency, qualities
which prevent any portion of the printing on
the note being washed or scratched out with-
out a hole being made. By its characteristic
feel, which consists of a singular crispnessand
toughness, owing to the fact that the bank
paper is made from new linen and cotton, not
from rags. By the peculiar wire-mark or
water-mark, which can only be produced
when the paper is in a state of pulp ; conse-
quently the forger must procure a mould, and
make his own paper, both requiring the skill
of such first-rate artisans as are not likely to
be met with in the haunts of crime. By the
three deckle or rough edges. These edges
are produced when the paper is in pulp ; two
notes being placed in the mould, and divided
lengthways, hence the top and bottom, or
long edges, are both rough. The deckle is
562
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
tho raw edge of the paper, and cannot be imi-
tated by cutting. By the strength of the pa-
per— a bank note will lift a hundred weight if
carefully adjusted. The printing is of two
kinds, type and plate; the paper is moistened
by water driven through its pores by the
pressure of the atmosphere ; 30,000 double
notes are thus moistened in the space of an
hour. The ink used is made at the bank,
from linseed oil and the charred husks and
vines of Rhenish grapes ; this gives a pecu-
liar velvety black to the mark in the left-hand
corner of the note. The notes are numbered
by a machine which cannot err; and, lastly,
are authorized by the signature of the clerk.
The bank notes are printed on the side of the
paper which receives the water mark, so that,
if the paper be split, the imprinted surface
only retains the slightest trace of that mark.
6397. To Flatten Engravings or
Paper that has been Rolled Up. To suc-
ceed in this, take a roll of paper, wall-paper for
instance, unroll a portion of it, and insert the
paper or card-board, which is to be flattened,
in such a manner that when the whole is
rolled up again, the card-board will be bent
the opposite way to which it was originally
rolled. Roll up closely and evenly, and let
it remain for about 15 minutes. If this be
carefully done, the card-board will be flatten-
ed without danger of breaking, and free from
the creases inevitably made if rolled back-
wards in the hands. If wall-paper be used,
it should be as thick as can be obtained, and
the larger the diameter of the roll, the better.
Collectors of engravings will find it worth their
while to obtain a straight roller, say 3 inches
in diameter, and 5 or 6 yards of the stout
paper sold in rolls or by the yard under the
name of "pattern paper. The cost is trifling,
and it will last for years.
6398. To Remove Water Stains from
Engravings or Paper. Fill a sufficiently
large clean vessel with pure water; dip the
engraving in, waving it backward and for-
ward until wet through. Then fasten it to a
flat board with drawing pins, and let it dry in
the sunshine.
6399. To Bleach Engravings, &c.
Old engravings, wood cuts, and all Kinds of
printed matter, that have turned yellow, are
completely restored by being immersed in
this preparation for only one minute, without
the least injury to the paper, if the precaution
is taken to thoroughly wash the article in wa-
ter containing a little hyposulphite of soda.
Undyed linen and cotton goods of all kinds,
however soiled or dirty, are rendered snowy
white in a very short time by merely placing
them in the liquid mentioned. For the pre-
paration of Javelle water, take 4 pounds bi-
carbonate of soda, and 1 pound chloride of
lime ; put the soda into a kettle over the fire,
add 1 gallon boiling water, let it boil from 10
to 15 minutes, then stir in the chloride of
lime, avoiding lumps. When cold, the liquid
can be kept in a jug ready for use. (Sec No.
4787.)
6400. To Clean Soiled Engravings.
Lay the engraving, face downwards, in a per-
fectly clean vessel, sufficiently largo to allow
the engraving to lay flat ; pour clean boiling
water upon it, and allow it to stand until the
water is cold : take it out carefully and re-
move as much of the moisture as possible
with clean blotting paper, then place the en-
graving in a press between clean white paper.
If very much soiled, a repetition of the opera-
tion may be necessary.
6401. Fine Black Hair Dye. This is
composed of two different liquids, No. 1,
called ihe-mordant, which is employed to give
permanency to the dye, and No. 2, which is
the dye itself. Take \ ounce pyrogallic acid,
6 ounces alcohol, and 18 ounces water; shake
them well together, and put the mixture in a
glass-stoppered bottle. This is the mordant,
and must be labeled Solution No. 1. To pre-
pare the dye, take 1 ounce nitrate of silver, 2
ounces a'mmonia, and 8 ounces distilled wa-
ter ; dissolve in a stoppered bottle, and mark
it Solution No. 2. This is a very fine article.
(See No. 1201.) Directions for using the
above dye may be found in No. 1202.
6402. Fire Kindlings. In France, a
very convenient and economical kindling is
made by dipping corn-cobs for about one
minute in a bath composed of 60 parts melted
resin and 40 parts tar. They are next spread
out to dry on metallic plates heated to the
temperature of boiling water. (See No. 6205.)
6403. To Convert Sized Paper into
Blotting Paper. Common paper may be
converted into blotting paper by immersing it
for a few seconds in hydrochloric acid. Some
recommend for this purpose a mixture of hy-
drochloric acid and water ; but in experiments
that have been made, the paper was immersed
in a bath of the ordinary undiluted acid,
removing it, after a few seconds, to a vessel
in which it was treated to several changes of
water.
6404. Brother's Soap Liniment. Take
of soap (genuine castile, mottled or white),
dry and in No. 12 powder, 24 troy ounces ;
camphor, 12 troy ounces; oil of rosemary, 3
fluid ounces ; water, 3 pints ; strong alcohol,
10J pints. Mix the water with half a pint of
the alcohol in a capacious vessel; add tho
soap and apply heat until solution has oc-
curred ; to this add 4 pints of alcohol. In tho
remaining 6 pints of alcohol dissolve the cam-
phor and oil; to this add the solution of soap;
mix. Let th« impurities (coloring matter of
the soap) subside, and filter. This is vastly su-
perior to the officinal process. (See No. 4869.)
6405. Coating for Black-Boards. In-
corporate flour-emery with shellac varnish,
adding sufficient lampblack to give the re-
quired color. If too thick, reduce its consis-
tency with alcohol. This varnish, applied to
the surface of wood with a camel's hair var-
nish brush, produces an excellent black fac-
ing, and may also be used for preparing
smaller writing tablets.
6406. Beautiful Black Ink. Take a
sufficient quantity of elder berries, bruise and
keep them for 3 days in an earthen vessel ;
then press out and filter the juice. To 124
pints of the filtered juice, add i oun.ee each of
sulphate of iron, and crude pyroligneous acid.
The ink that results has, when first used, a
violet color, but when dry is an indigo blue-
black. In writing, it flows easily from the
pen without gumming, and does not thicken
as soon as common ink. These are no small
advantages, and ought to recommend it for
general use. (See No. 2460.)
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
563
6407. To Mount Prints. Make a thin
size of fish glue or isinglass. Take a good
sized flat varnish brush, wet the brush with
the size just sufficiently to moisten the surface
of the print to the extent of the width of the
brush and the whole length of the print.
Commence at one side and continue in this
way until you have gone over the w"hole sur-
face. Draw the brush with a light, quick
stroke, as closely each time to the part pre-
viously wet as possible, without lapping or
going twice in one place. "When dry, go
over it again in the same way, only at right
angles to the first stroke. Let this dry, then
proceed to mount as follows : Stretch, as
tightly as it will bear, to a frame of the re-
quired size, a piece of new, smooth, fine mus-
lin or factory cloth. Kub over the whole sur-
face of this, with a good paste-brush, a suffi-
cient quantity of well-cooked paste, made of
equal parts of wheat-flour and starch, to thor-
oughly wet the cloth. Lay the print onto it,
and, covering it with a piece of clean' paper,
rub it down both back and front, until smooth
and fast. "When thoroughly dry, varnish with
white copa*l varnish.
6408. Varnish to Imitate Ground
Glass. Dissolve 90 grains sandarac and 20
grains mastic in 2 ounces washed methylated
ether, and add, in small quantities, sufficient
benzine to make it dry with a suitable grain,
too little making the varnish too transparent,
and excess making it crapy. The quantity of
benzine required depends upon its quality,
from i ounce to Ik ounces or even more; but
the best results are got with a medium qual-
ity. It is important to use pure washed
ether, free from spirit.
6409. Xylol, the New Remedy for
Small-Pox. Xylol, xyleue, or ethyl-ben-
zine, as it has been respectively called, is one
of the hydrocarbons formed from coal-tar
naphtha. It was first procured by Hugo
Miiller, but its nitro-compound had previously
been discovered by "Warren De la Rue, in
1856. Coal-tar naphtha is submitted to frac-
tional distillation until the part which boils
at 141° is separated ; this is submitted to the
action of fuming sulphuric acid, which dis-
solves the xylol and leaves the other hydro-
carbons. The xylol is then separated by
distillation from this mixture. Xylol is said
to have been used by Dr. Zuelzer, the Senior
Physician at the Charit6 Hospital at Berlin,
with great success in cases of small-pox. The
theory of its action would appear to be that
xylol is taken up by the blood, and acts as a
disinfectant. Its boiling point is variously
stated at 139° to 140°. The specimens ex-
amined by the writer generally commenced
to boil at about 135°. The specific gravity
was .866. It is said that the purity of xylol
is of importance, but there is no very ready
method for testing its purity. It should be
soluble in fuming sulphuric acid, but it is not
soluble in the ordinary sulphuric acid of the
Pharmacopoeia. It has a faint odor something
like benzole, and an aromatic taste. The
doses are 3 to 5 drops for children ; 10 to 15
drops for adults, every hour to every 3 hours.
It is quite harmless in reasonable doses. In
Berlin it is given in capsules. As *t is very
insoluble, the best method of giving it would
be in an emulsion of almonds. (Tichborne.)
6410. To Examine Wells or Chim-
neys. In case the bottom of a well needs
examining, hold a mirror in such a position as
to reflect the sun's rays in the water, so that
anything floating on the surface can then be
plainly seen. If the contents of the well are
not turbid, the smallest object on the bottom
can also be distinguished. In this way objects
dropped in wells of 60 feet in depth, and
which contained more than 20 feet of water,
have been traced and recovered. "When the
objects are small, or a minute examination of
the bottom is required, an opera-glass may be
used. If the top of the well is not exposed
to sunlight, a mirror may be placed outside,
even at a great distance, to reflect the light
over its top, where a second mirror may reflect
it downward. Letting a lamp, candle, or lan-
tern down gives by no means as successful a
result, as the light is very weak compared
with sunlight, and its glare, even when the
eyes are shaded from its direct rays, prevents
distinct vision. The method of employing
two mirrors, one outside reflecting the solar
rays in a room, and a second small mirror in
its path to reflect these rays into a dark cav-
ity, is employed by physicians, for the exam-
ination of cavities of the body ; for instance,
to explore the tympanum in the human ear,
the throat, etc. To examine a straight chim-
ney a piece of looking-glass is to be held, in-
clined at an angle of 45°, in the hole in the
chimney wall, into which the stove-pipe is to
go, or in the open fireplace. If the observer
can see the light of the sky, he will also see
the whole interior of the chimney, and any
obstruction in the same. As most chimneys
are straight, the top will be clearly visible.
6411. To Clean Furniture. Mix to-
gether 1 pint cold drawn linseed oil, 1 pint
best vinegar, and i pint spirits of wine. Dip
a soft cloth into the mixture and rub over the
furniture, and then wipe thoroughly with a
clean soft cloth. Always shake the mixture
before using. We do not know any article
for cleaning furniture equal to this. (Trent.)
6412. To Wash Ladies' Summer
Suits. Summer suits are nearly all made of
white or buff linen, piqu6, cambric or mus-
lin, and the art of preserving the new appear-
ance after washing is a matter of the greatest
importance. In the first place, the water
should be tepid, the soap should not be allow-
ed to touch the fabric ; it should be washed
and rinsed quickly, turned upon the wrong
side, and hung in the shade to dry, and when
starched (in thin-boiled, but not boiling
starch) should be folded in sheets or towels,
and ironed upon the wrong side, as soon as
possible. Linen should be washed in water
in which hay or a quart- bag of bran has been
boiled. This last will be found to answer for
starch as well, and is excellent for print
dresses of all kinds ; a handful of salt is also
very useful to set the colors of light cambrics
and dotted lawns; and a little beefs gall will
not only set, but brighten, yellow and purple
tints, and has a good effect upon green. No
soda, or other washing compound should on
any account be used.
6413. To Dissolve Wool Out of
Mixed Fabrics. Boil the rags in a mixture
of 1 part nitric acid and 10 water, or a little
stronger. The cotton fibre, after drying, can,
564:
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
be shaken out as dust in a willowing machine,
leaving the wool behind ready for dyeing.
This is the plan adopted in England and
Germany for making " extract," and is used
for mixing with wool in many manufactures.
This prepared wool, however, will be found to
have lost, to a great extent, its felting prop-
erty.
6414. Javelle Water. Many persons
keep on hand a supply of Javelle water, small
quantities of which are sufficient to render
the most soiled linen perfectly white. It is
prepared by taking 4 pounds sal- sod a to 1
pound chloride of lime in 1 gallon water. Put
the sal-soda into a vessel over the fire, add 1
gallon boiling water ; let it boil for 10 or 15
minutes, then add the chloride of lime by
throwing it, free from lumps, into the soda
water. When cold, pour into a jug or large
bottle and cork tightly. "Where it is desirable
to have a larger quantity, the following mix-
ture can be taken : Stir 5 pounds chloride of
lime into 2 pails warm water; dissolve 10
pounds glauber salt (sulphate of soda) in 1
pail water ; also 4 pounds sal-soda in 1 pail
water. The contents of the 4 pails can be
poured together and kept in any suitable
tight vessel. Such a quantity as the above
ought to last a long time, as a dipperful of it
would bleach a large quantity of linen or
other goods. The materials are cheap, and
the mixture easily made. (See No. 4787.)
6415. To Detect Blood-stains. It is
said by Professor Bloxam, of London, that a
mixture of tincture of guaiacurn and a solu-
tion of peroxide of hydrogen in ether produces
instantly, with blood or blood stains, a beau-
tiful tint of blue. He had taken a single lint
fibre, on which was a stain of blood scarcely
perceptible, that had been made twenty years
before, and he found that the test produced
immediately the characteristic blue color,
which was easily detected on a microscopic
examination. (See No. 4393.)
6416. Artificial Honey. Put 10 pounds
white sugar in 2 quarts water, and gradually
heat it, stirring it occasionally until brought
to the boiling point. Then remove from the
fire and add 1 pound real honey. "When half
cooled, add ^ pound more honey, and, when
only blood warm, add another ^ pound honey.
"When nearly cold, add 10 drops good essence
of peppermint. This makes 16 pounds in all
of a very good sweetening. Its flavor can be
varied to the liking by adding more or less
peppermint essence. (See Nos. 1572, ^-e.)
6417. Grape Champagne. Gather the
grapes when they are just turning, or about
half ripe ; pound them in a tub, and to every
quart of pounded fruit add 2 quarts water.
Let it stand in the mash-tub for 14 days, then
draw it off, and to every gallon of liquor add
3 pounds loaf sugar. When the sugar is dis-
solved, cask it ; and, after it has done work-
ing, bring it down. In 6 months it should be
bottled, and the corks tied down or wired.
This produces a domestic real champagne,
in no way inferior to the genuine imported
article.
6418. Imitation White Frontignac
Wine. Boil 18 pounds white powdered
sugar, with 6 gallons water, and the whites of
2 eggs well beaten ; then skim it, and put in
i peck elder flower from the tree that bears
white berries ; do not keep them on the fire.
"When nearly cold, stir it, and put in 6 spoon-
fuls lemon juice, 4 or 5 of yeast, and beat well
into the liquor; stir it every day; put 6
pounds -best raisins, stoned, into the cask, and
tun the wine. Stop it close, and bottle in 6
months. "When well kept, this wine is an
excellent imitation of Frontignac.
6419. Imitation Red Frontignac
Wine. This is made in the same manner,
and with the same ingredients as the white
wine (see No. 6418), except that dark elder-
flowers are used instead of white.
6420. Cure for Fever and Ague and
Intermittent Fever. Take 40 grains sul-
phate of quinine, 30 grains powdered liquor-
ice, and 10 grains gum myrrh. Make, into 40
pills. Take 2 pills every "2 hours for the first
24 hours ; 2 pills every 4 hours for the second
24 hours ; and the remainder, 1 at night on
going to bed, and 1 in the morning, first thing.
This performs an effectual cure if the direc-
tions are implicitly followed. (Trent.}
6421. To Remove Tar or Pitch from
the Skin. Mix together pulverized extract
of liquorice, and oil of aniseed to the consist-
ency of thick cream ; rub it on the part thor-
oughly with the hand, then wash off with soap
and warm soft water.
6422. To Remove Tar, &c., from
Glass. It is not easy to remove tar, pitch,
Venice turpentine, and other sticky substances
from the graduated glasses used for measuring
them. A mixture formed of the same ingre-
dients as in the last receipt, combines with
the sticky matter so completely as to allow of
the whole being rubbed off dry and clean with
a piece of cotton.
INDEX.
IN the compilation of this Index, especial pains have been taken to economize space as ranch as possible,
without impairing its usefulness for ready reference. "With this end in view, classification of items has been
largely resorted to ; so that, in many cases, a single entry will embrace several receipts, varying in number
from two or three to twenty or more.
Some discretion is, therefore, advisable in searching the Index for any desired receipt. If, for instance,
it is required to find out " How to put out a fire in a Chimney," it will naturally be found under "Chimney,"
the object to be operated upon. Again: in searching for some preparation of a compound body, "Solution
of Citrate of Magnesia," for instance, it would be found under "Citrate of Magnesia," the principal ingredi-
ent, and not under " Magnesia," which, although its base, is an entirely different substance.
Proprietary preparations and processes will be found only under the name of the inventors; thus,
"Bnimlreth's Pills" are indexed under "Brandreth," and not under the head of "Pills;" this latter heading
including only such as have no such distinctive designation. This is done to avoid needless repetition, and
thereby save space.
ABE— AC I
Abernethy's Pills 5183
Absinthe, to make 797, &c.
Absolute Alcohol, to obtain... 1441
6368.
Absorbents 5678, 5684
Abstinence as a cure for Dis-
ease 5894
Acacia-Flower Water, to distill 1072
Acetates 3889
Acetate of Alumina 4258
Acetate of Ammonia 4218
Acetate of Ammonia, Solution
of 5143
Acetate of Amyl 4302
Acetate of Baryta 4232
Acetate of Cobalt 4253
Acetate of Copper 4088
Acetate of Ethyl 4291, 4290
Acetate of Iron 4159
Acetate of Lead 4101
Acetate of Lead, Lotion of 4824
Acetate of Lead, Solution of. .4775
Acetate of Morphia 4267
Acetate of Morphia, Solution of 4770
Acetate of Potassa 4180
Acetate of Soda 4206
Acetic Acid 3889
Acetic Acid, Anhydrous 3894
Acetic Acid, Camphorated 3895
Acetic Acid, Commercial 3889
Acetic Acid, Dilute 3890
Acetic Acid, Glacial or Hydra-
ted 3891
Acetic Acid, Pure 3893
Acetic Acid, Strong, frotn Vine-
gar 3896
Acetic Acid, Table of Percent-
ages of 3897
Acetic Acid, Tests for the Pu-
- rity of 3899
Acetic Acid, Tests for the
Strength of 72, &c.
Acetic Acid, to concentrate.. 3898
Acetic Acid, "Weight of, to find 70
Acetic Ether 4201, &c.
Acetic Perfumes 1088
Acetimetry 69, &c.
Aceto-Carbolic Solution 4799
Acetous Fermentation 16, 867
Acid, Free, Test for 4394
Acid Poisons, Antidotes for... 5897
5911.
Acid Preparations of Tin 107
Acid Stains, to remove from
Garments, «tc 366, &c.
Acidiineters 82
Acidimetry 78, &c.
Acidity in Beer, to correct 8(i8
Acidity in Wine, to remedy . . . 753
ACI — ALC
Acidity in "Wine, to test 760
Acids,'see NAME OF ACID.
Acids, Cement to resist 2232
Acids, Effect of, on Colors 361
Acids, General Classification
of 3853, &c.
Acids, Precautions in Testing. 71
Acids, Table of Equivalents of. 81
Acids, to test the Strength of. . 79
Aconite Leaves, Fluid Extract
of 4574
Aconite Leaves, Tincture of. .4481
Aconite Root, Fluid Extract of. 4575
Aconite Hoot, Tincture of 4482
Aconitino Ointment 4984
Adelaide-Purple Dye for Cot-
tons 171, &c.
Adhesive for Leather Belts 6232
Adhesive ResinPlaster 5046
Adulterations, see ARTICLE
ADULTERATED.
2Eolian Harps, to construct 6200
Aerated Lemonade 906
Aerated "Waters 4430, &c.
Age, to impart apparent, to
Beer 875
Ague, Fever and, Remedies for 5579
&c., 6420.
Air, see ATMOSI>HKHE.
Aitkin's Compound Syrup of
Iron 4648
Aix-la-Chapello Water 4463
Ajutage of Fountains 6233
Alabaster 2020
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
on .
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
Cement for. ..2160, 2177
Imitation 2020
to cast 2031
to clean 2034
to dress with wax. .2023
to engrave or etch
2021
to harden 2022, 2025
to polish 2030
to render durable . . . 2024
to stain 2029
Albumen 4346
Albumen, Tests for 4348
Albumenized Paper for Photo-
graphy 3132, 3178
Albuminous Size 1953
Alcohol 1435, &c.
Alcohol, Absolute 1441, 6368
Alcohol, Amylio 1440
Alcohol, Dilute, officinal 1437
Alcohol, Officinal 1438
Alcohol, Proof 1436
A luohol. Rules for the treatment
of 144S, &c.
Alcohol, Stronger, officinal..,. 1439
ALC — ALK
Alcohol. Tables of Percentage
of 55, &c.
Alcohol, Table comparing the
Weight and Volume of 57
Alcohol, to ascertain the Costof 1450
Alcohol, to deodorize 1446
Alcohol, to dilute 1451
Alcohol, to filter 144T
Alcohol, to find the Percentage
of 1452
Alcohol, to free from Fusel Oil. 1445
Alcohol, to increase theStrength
of 1443
Alcohol, to preserve with 1632
Alcohol, to raise the proof of. . 1454
1459, &c.
Alcohol, to raise low-proof 1463
Alcohol, to reduce low-proof. . . 1462
Alcohol, to reduce the proof of 1453
1455, &c.
Alcohol, to reduce the Strength 60"
Alcohol, to test the Puritv ot. . . 1444
Alcohol, to test theStrength of 1448
Alcohol Vinegar, to improve . . . 1743
Alcohol Vinegar, to make 1741
Alcoholate of Roses 1017
Alcoholic Extracts, to prepare. 44
Alcoholic Fermentation 16
Alcoholic Solution 29
Alcoholized Sulphuric Acid... 4741
Alcohohneters, see HYDROME-
TEKS and AREOMETERS.
Alcoholmetry 53, &o.
Aldehyd-ammouia 4307
Aldehyde 2557, 4308
Ale, Bitter Balls for 870
Ale, Fining for 871
Ale, to brew 856, &c.
Ale, to clarify 873
Ale, to fine 747
Alkali-Blue Dye 2606
Alknli, Caustic, to test 584, &c.
Alkali Stains, to remove from
Garments, &c 398
Alkali Stiffening for Hats 336
Alkalies 3973, &c.
Alkalies, Effect of, on Colors.. 361
Alkalies, Table of Equivalents
of 80
Alkalies, to find the Strength of 84
Alkalimeters 82
Alkalimetry 83
Alkaline Metals, Amalgams of 3546
Alkaline Poisons, Antidotes for 5901
Alkaline Svrup of Rhubarb 4675
Alkaline Waters, Aerated 4432
Alkaloids 3996. &c.
Alkaloids, Tests to distinguish 4023
Alkaloids, to obtain 4022
566 ALK— AMA
Alkanet-Red Color 2630
AUcock's Porous Plaster 5275
Allen's Nerve and Bone Liui-
ment 5224
Allison's Tobacco Ointment.. 5290
Allspice, Essence of 952
Allspice, Essential Oil of 1465
Allspice, Fluid Extract of 4579
Alloxan 4224
Alloy, Expansion 3454
Alloy, Fluid 3455
Alloy of the Government Stan-
dard Measures 3434
Alloys 3347, &c.
Allovs for Dentists' Moulds 3435 &c.
Alloys, French, for Forks, &C..3427
Alloys, Fusible 3456
Alloys of Aluminum 3429
Alloys of Copper 3348, 3437
Alloys of Gold S398, &c.
Alloys of Lead 3419, 3426
Alloys of Quicksilver, SEE AMAL-
GAMS.
Alloys of Silver 3404, <tc.
Alloys of Steel 3423
Alloys of Tin 3421, 3426
Alloys of Tin and Lead, melting
heat of 3459
Alloys of Zinc 3424
Alloys, Test for Copper in 3241
Alloys, to separate Copper from324fi
Almond and Honey Paste 1134
Almond Extract 1033
Almond Paste 1123
Almond Paste, Bitter 1 124
Almond Soap 557, 592
Almond Water, Bitter 4755
Almonds, Bitter, Essential Oil
of 1465
Almonds, Bitter, Test for Essen-
tial Oil of 1479
Almonds, Emulsion of. ..1140, 1155
Almonds, Essence of. 943
Almonds, Oil of, non-poisonous 1512
Aloes and Assafatida Pills 4901
Aloes and Myrrh Pills 4902
Aloes and Myrrh, Tincture of. 4538
Aloes, Essential Oil of 1465
Aloes Pills 4900
Aloes, Tincture of 4537
Alpaca Dresses, to wash 485
Alteratives 5161, &c.
Alterative, Dandelion 5164
Alterative Pills 4906, 5162, 5166
Alterative, Eheumatic 5535
Alterative Syrup 5163
Alum 4256
Alum, Ammonio-ferric 4738
Alum, Lotion of, Com pound.. .4821
Alnm Plumb 114
Alum Poultice 5033
Alum, Roche 4256
Alnm, Solution of, Compound. 4772
Alum, to test 115
Alumina, Acetate of 4258
Alumina, Hydrate of 4257
Alumina, Sulphate of 4259
Aluminized Charcoal 1730
Aluminum 3330
Aluminum, Alloys of 3429
Aluminum, Solder for 3520, 3522
Aluminum, to electroplate with.3749
Aluminum, to frost -....3332
Aluminum, to polish 3331
Aluminum, to solder 3521
Amalgams 3532, &c.
Amalgam, Copper 3543
Amalgam for Anatomical Pre-
parations ;\:AI
Amalgam for Dentists 3549, &c.
Amalgam for Electrical Ma-
chines 3539, &c.
Amalgam for Silvering MirrorsSfA'
3538, 3545
Amalgam for Varnishing Plas-
ter Casts 3548
Amalgam, Gold 3533
Amalgam, Gold, to gild with.. 3534
Amalgam, Silver 3535
Amalgam, Tin 3542
Amalgam, Tin and Cadmium. .3544
Amalgam, Varnishers' 2955
Amalgam, Zinc 3339
AMA — ANI
Amalgamating Fluid 3555
Amande, Pate do, an MM 1134
Amandine, Colored 1120
Amandine, Glycerine 11 19
Amandine, to make 1117
Amandine, to use 1118
Amazon Bitters 817
Amber, Cement forv* 2176
Amber Oil -Tarnishes 2879, &c.
Amber Spirit -Varnish 2930
Amber, to dissolve 2929
Ambergris and Musk, Oil of. . .1237
Ambergris, Essence of 959, D63
Ambergris, Oil of 1227, 1240
Ambergris, Tincture of. . . 963,. 1024
Ambergris, to test 4391
Amber, Eau Royale do 994
Ambretto, Eau or Esprit do 995
Ambrette, Essence of. 968
Ambrosia Syrup 1422
American Blight on Trees, to
remedy 1844
American "Weights and Mea-
sures 59155. &e.
Amethyst, Imitation 2356, 2441
Amethyst Foil 2456
Amianthus 4371
Ammonia 3981, 4067
Ammonia, Acetate of 4218
Ammonia, Antiseptic solution
of 1654
Ammonia, Aromatic Spirit of. 1094
Ammonia, Carbonates of. .4219, &c.
Ammonia, Cyanate of 4323
Ammonia, Hydrosulphatc of. .1203
Ammonia, Hydrosulphuret of. .1203
Ammonia, Muriate of 4222
Ammonia Poison, Antidote for .5901
Ammonia, Purpuratc of 4224
Ammonia, Sulphate of 4223
Ammonia, Sulphuretted Hydro-
sulphate of ". 5353
Ammonia, to obtain 3982
Ammoniacal Eau do Lavandc.1097
Ammoniacal Lavender Water. 1098
Ammoniacal Ointment. . .4944, 5477
Ammoniated Cologne Water.. 1096
Ammoniated Perfumes 1095
Ammoniated Tinctures 35
Ammonio-chloride of Mercury .4140
Ammonio-chloride of Platinum 3334
4086
Ammonio-chloride of Zinc 4110
Ammonio-citrate of Iron 4162
Ammonio-ferric Alum 4738
Ammonio-nitratc of Silver, So-
lution of 4773
Ammonio - pyrophosphatc of
Iron 4737
Ammonio-sulphatc of Copper. .4090
Ammonio-sulphate of Copper,
Solution of 4790
Ammonium, Bromide of 4227
Ammonium, Hydrosulphuret of 4228
Ammonium, Iodide of. 4225
Ammonium, Sulphocyanide of. 422fi
Ammonium, Sulphurct of 422S
Ammoniuret of Gold 3725
Amyl 4301
Amyl, Acetate of 430'
Amyl, Valerianatc of 430S
Amylic Alcohol 1440
Anaesthetics 4271
Anaesthetic, Dental 5433
Anatomical Preparations, Am-
algam for 3547
Anatomical Preparations, Solu-
tions for 1651, &c.
Anderson's Pills 5326
Anderson's Scott's Pills 5180
Angelica Water, to distill 1071, 1073
Angelot's Gum Lotion 5461
Angelot's Pastils for the Breath 5462
Anglo-German Gilding 3587
Angostura Bitters 816
Aniline Black Varnish 2943
Aniline Colors 2552, &c.
Aniline Colors, effects of impure
Alcohol on 2559
Aniline Colors, soluble in water 2558
Aniline Colors, to remove 2565
Aniline Colors, to remove Sugar
from 2562
ANI— ANT
Aniline Colors, to test for Sugar
in 2561
Aniline Colors, to test the qual-
ity of 2560
Aniline, difficulty in Dyeing
Cotton with 2570
Aniline Dyes 332, &c., 2552, &c.
Aniline Dyes, Directions for
using 2563
Aniline Dyes for Ivory 1993
Aniline Dyes, Mordants for 2567
Aniline Dyes, to distinguish. . .25(ii
Anilino Inks 2497
Aniline Marking Ink 2511
Aniline Stains, to remove from
the Hands 2566
Aniline Varnishes, Transparent 2942
Animal Charcoal, to prepare. .1752
Animal Fats 1518, &c.
Animal Fats, Rancid, to restore 1489
Animal Fats, to preserve. 1491, 1515
Animal Fats, to purify 1517
Animal Fibre, to detect in Mix-
ed Fabrics 294
Animal Substances, to silver. . .3626
Animals, Antiseptic for pre-
serving 1668
Animals, Noxious, to destroy.. 1900
Animals, Preparation for stuff-
ing 1667
Animals, Solutions to preserve. 1651
Animals, to banish Fleas from. 1913
Animals, to embalm 1666
Anise, Essential Oil of 1465
Anise, Green, to distill... 1071, 1073
Aniseed Cordial 780
Anisette Cordial 770, 778, 802
Ankle, Sprained, treatment of 5495
Annealing 2
Annotto Dye for Cottons 1 5S)
A nnotto, Purified 2621
Annotto, Solution of. 2622
Annotto, to prepare 95
Anode of a Battery : . . . 3667
Anodynes 5X30
Anodyne Balsam 5098, 520!)
Anodyne Cigars 5133
Anodyne Fomentation 5156
Anodyne, Hoffmann's 4749
Anodyne Lotion 4817, 4819
Anddyne Necklaces 5259
Anodyne Ointment 4983
Anodyne Plaster 5048
Anodyne Powder 5131
Anodyne Substitute for Opium. 5132
Antacids 5678, 5684
Antacid Tincture 5444
Anthelmintics 5641
Anti-attrition Composition 1547
Anti-bilious Pills 5174, 4907
Anti-catarrh Elixir 5447
Anti-chill Pills 4908
Antichlor 1719
Antidotes for Poisons 5895, &c.
Anti-ferments 762, &c.
Anti-friction Compositions 1539. &c.
Antiinonoid 3530
Antimony 31339
Antimony, Antidotes for 5900
Antimony, Butter of 4131
Antimony, Chloride of. 4131
Antimony, Commercial 3343
Antimony, Ethiops of 4126
Antimony, Flowers of 4127
Antimony, Fiihn mating 2131
Antimony, Glass of 2370
Antimont, Liver of 4128
Antimony, Oxide of 4130
Antimony, Oxysulphuret of. . . .5467
Antimony, Potassio-tartrate of 4 129
Antimony, Sulphuret of. .4132, &c.
Antimony, Tests for 3340, 3341
Antimony, Metallic, to obtain. 3342
Antipsoric Lotion 4850
Antique Bronze 3788
Antiscorbutic Dentifrice 1306
Antiseptic for preserving Birds,
&c 1668
Antiseptic Solutions 1651, &c.
Antispasmodics 5568
Ants, Black, to destroy 1848
Ants, Black, to disperse 1909
Ants, Red, to exterminate 1910
ANT — ARO
ARO — AZU
BAB — BAR
567
Anfs, to keep from Trees 1847
Aperient Electuary 5153
Aperient Elixir 5446
Aperient Pills 4909
Aperient Solution 5272
Aphides on Plants, to destroy. 1845
Apoplexy, Treatment of 5763
Apothecaries' Graduated Mea-
sures 5957
Apothecaries Measure 5956
Apothecaries Measure com-
pared with Apothecaries
Weight 5962
Apothecaries Measure com-
pared with Avoirdupois
Weight 5960
Apothecaries Measure com-
pared with Imperial 5958
Apothecaries Measure com-
pared with Metrical 5959
Apothecaries Measure com-
pared with Troy Weight 5961
Apothecaries Measure, Impe-
rial 6032
Apothecaries Measure, Impe-
rial, in Litres 6033
Apothecaries Measure, Impe-
rial, in TJ. States Measure 6039
Apothecaries Weight 5951
Apothecaries Weight compared
with Apothecaries Measure. 5954
Apothecaries Weight compared
with Avoirdupois 5952
Apothecaries Weight compared
with Metrical 5955
Apothecaries Weight compared
with Troy 5953
Apple and Mulberry Wine 728
Apple Essence, Artificial 1054
Apple, Essential Oil of 1469
Apple Syrup 1412
Apple Wine 728
Apples, to can 1636
Apples, to dry 1640
Apples, to keep fresh 1641
Apples, to press, for Cider 833
Apricot Essence, Artificial 1047
Apricot Wine .• 728
Aqua Fortis 3872
Aqua Marine, Imitation. .2359, 2442
Aqua Kegia 3725, 3879
Aquaria, Artificial Sea- Water
for 6198
Aquaria, Cement for 2163, &c.
Aqueous Extracts, to prepare. 44
Aqueous Fusion 19
Aqueous Solution 29
Architects' Plans, to tint 2646
Area of various Figures, to find 5987
Areca-Nut C harcoal 1 302
Areca-Nut Tooth Paste 1307
Areca-Nut Tooth Powder 1301
Areometers, various. . .64, 6155, <fec.
Ares, compared with Square
Measure 6026
Argentine Flowers 4127
Argol 4197
Arkansas Oil Stones, see HONES.
Armenian Cement 2152
Arnica, Extract of 4751
Arnica Flowers, Liniment of. .4864
Arnica Flowers, Lotion of 4837
Arnica Flowers. Tincture of. .4509
Arnica Fomentation 5159
Arnica, Tincture of 4483
Arnold's Writing Fluid 2485
Aroma of Cordials 812
Aromatic Acid Tincture 4731
Aromatic; Bitters 826
Aromatic Blackberry Syrup.. .4685
Aromatic Candles ." 1351
Aromatic Elixir 4727
Aromatic Ginger Wine 738
Aromatic Mixture of Iron . . . .4712
Aromatic Spirit of Ammonia. 1094
Aromatic Spirits, "Distilled 941
Aromatic Sulphuric Acid 4740
Aromatic Tonic Mixture 5124
Aromatic Vinegar 1083, &c.
Aromatic Waters. Distilled . ..1070
Aromatic Waters from EssenceslOSl
Aromatic Waters from Essen-
tial Oils 1080
Aromatic Wine 5348
Aromatics, proportions of, for
Perfumed Waters 1071
Arrack 1435
Arrack, Imitation 700, &c.
Arrack -Punch Syrup 1377
Arrow-root, to test 4382
Arseniates 3938
Arsenic 3935
Arsenic Acid 3938
Arsenic Acid, Testa for 3940
Arsenic Acid, to obtain 3939
Arsenic and Mercury Solution. 4777
Arsenic, Antidotes for 5898
Arsenic, Self-detecting ..3936
Arsenic, Tersulphuret of 4356
Arsenic, Tests for 3937
Arsenic, to detect, in Colored
Paper .4383
Arsenical Soap 1669, &c.
Arsenical Solution 5298, 4804
Arsenious Acid, see ARSENIC.
Arsenitea 3935
Arsenite of Copper 2711
Arsenite of Potassa, Solution of 4804
Artificial, see ARTICLE IMITATED.
Artus' Vinegar Process 1742
Asbestos 4371
Asbestos, Platinated 3335
Aseptin for Preserving Meat. .1616
A shweU's Injection for Obstruct-
ed Menstruation 5717
Asiatic Black Ink 2466
Asphalt for Walks 6354
Assafcetida and Aloes Pills 4901
Assafostida Pills 4903
Assafoetida, Syrup of. Com-
pound 4686
Assafoetida, Tincture of 4480
Assay of Gold 3187, 3190, &c.
Assay of Silver 3187, 3206, &c.
Assa'yers' Gold Weights 5948
Assayers' Silver Weights 5949
Asses' Milk, Imitation 6289
Asthma 5593
Asthma, to alleviate 5594
Asthma, Treatment of 5624
Astringents 5555
Astringent for Leech Bites. . . .5567
Astringent Lotion 4817, 4820
Astringent Ointment 4979
Atkinson's Infant Preserva-
tive 5352
Atlee's Cough Mixture 5(510
Atlee's Scarlet-fever Remedy.. 5755
Atlee's Whooping-Cough Cure. 5634
Atler's Nipple Wash 5393
Atmosphere 4072
Atmosphere, Pressure of the.. 61 21
Atmosphere, to test the Purity
of the 1711, 4073
Atropine Paper 5807
Attar of Roses 975
Aureolin Yellow 2708
Auric Chloride 4075
Aurine Aniline Dye 2595
Aurous Chloride 4075
Austrian Cholera Specific 5670
Austrian Money 6075
Austrian Weights and Mea-
sures 6076, &c.
Autographic Ink 2551
Aventurme, Imitation 2443
Avoirdupois Weight 5935
Avoirdupois Weight compared
with Apothecaries Measure .. 5937
Avoirdupois Weight compared
with Apothecaries Weight. .5938
Avoirdupois Weight compared
with Troy. 5936
Avoirdupois Weight in Metri-
cal Weight 5941
Avoirdupois Weight, Decimal
Equivalents of 5939
Axle Grease 1541, 1545
Ayer's Cherry Pectoral 5267
Ayer's Sarsaparilla 5328
Ayer's Wild-Cherry Expector-
ant 5266
Azote, see NITHOOEN.
Azure Blue, or Smalts 2687
Azure Paste for the Skin 1114
Babbitt's Metal a348, 3445
Babington's Antiseptic Solu-
tion 1655
Bacher's Tonic Pills 5216
Back, Sprained, Treatment of. .5496
Back, Weak, Remedy for 5543
Baden Water, Aerated 4437
Badigeon 2158
Bagneres de Lnclion Water... 4464
Bailey's Itch Ointment 5243
Baillie's Pills 5197
Bain Marie 5
Bait to catch Rats, <tc 1895
Bakers' Itch, Remedy for 5484
Bakers' Itch, Ointment for 4957
Bakers' Yeast 1811, &c.
Baking Powder 1817, &c.
Balard's Waterproofing for
Clothing 1559
Balaruc Water 4461
Baldness, French Remedy for. .1285
Baldness, Oil for 1251
Baldness, Pomade for 1279, &c.
Baldness, Washes for. 1177, &c.
Baldwin's Phosphorus 41334
Balloons, Buoyant Power of 4045
Balloons, Hydrogen Gas for 4044
Balloons, to mend G392
Balloons, Varnish for 2948
Balls, Bitter, for Beer 870
Balls, Scouring 349. 374
Balls, Soap 574, &c.
Balm, Chilblain 5839
Balm of Gilead, Decoction of. .4534
Balm of Gilead. Factitious 51 11
Balm of Gilead, Lotion of 4838
Balm of Gilead, Tincture of . . .4535
Balm of Rakasiri 5115
Balm of the Innocents 5419
Balm of Thousand Flowers 1327
Balm, Spirit of, Compound 988'
Balm Tea 5] 35
Balm Water, to distill 1071, 1073
Balsams 5090, &c.
Balsam, Anodyne 5098, 5209
Balsam Apple, Oil of 4752
Balsam, Canada 5100
Balsam, Canada, Factitious 5101
Balsam for Freckles 1122
Balsam, Friar's 5091
Balsam, Glycerine 5095
Balsam, Hoffman's Life 5112
Balsam, Locatelle's 5306
Balsam, Nervine 5113, 5340
Balsam of Copaiba, Factitious 5104
Balsam of Copaiba, Reduced. . 5106
Balsam of Copaiba, Syrup of. . . 4667
Balsam of Copaiba, Test for... 5107
Balsam, Cough 5442
Balsam of Honey. . .1121, 5093, 5231
Balsam of Horehound 5092, 53(i7
Balsam of Malta 5116
Balsam of Peni, Factitious 5108
Balsam of Pent Liniment 5400
Balsam of Peru, Oil of 1241
Balsam of Peru Pomade 1262
Balsam of Peru, Reduced 5109
Balsam of Peru, Test for 51 10
Balsam of Peru, Tincture of. . . 1020
Balsam of Rnkasiri 51 15
Balsam of Sulphur 5114
Balsam of Tolu 5102
Balsam of Tolu, Test for 5103
Balsam of Tolu, Tincture of. . . 1022
Balsam of Turpentine 5099
Balsam
Balsam
Balsam
Balsam
Balsam
Balsam
Pectoral 50E7
Persian 5419
Pulmonary 5601
Riga 5094
Thibault's 5305
Turlington's 5304
Universal Wound 5096
Banana Syrup 1413
Bancroft's Process for Refining
Oils 1495
Bandoline, Rose 1195
Bank-Note Cement 2308
Bank of England Notes, to tell
Genuine 6396
Banks, to cover, with Grass. . . 1886
Barber's Itch, Remedy for 5487
Barber's Shampoo Mixture 1188
Barclay's Antibilious Pills 5174
568 BAK — BED BED — BEN
Bareges "Water ................ 4464 Beddoe's Pills ................. 5244
BariUa ........................ 4208 Beds, Garden, to Protect, from
Barium, Chloride of 4234
Barium, Oxides of 4235
BER — BLA
Berberino ..................... 4016
Bergamot, Essence of ......... 969
Snails 1862 i Bergamot, Oil of 1227
Bed-Sores, Lotion for 5820 , Bergamot, OU of, Test for 1480
999
Barium, Sulphuret of 4237 j Bed-Sores, to relieve 5821 Bergamotte, Esprit de
Bark, Essential Oil of 46 I Bed-Sores, Treatment of 5503 I Berlandt's Mode of Bleaching
Barlev Water 4767 I Bed-Tick, to clean 468 | Oils :
Barm for Making Yeast 1808 Beechwood Mahogany 2848 ; Berlin Water-Proof Cloth 1560
Barometer, Chemical 6184 Beef and Iron, Wine of 4722 Bernard and Delarue's Litho-
Barometer, Phial 6183
Barometer, Use of the 6132
Barrel, to cleanse a Foul 854
Barrel. Weight of a, of Various
Goods.... 5973
Barrel's Indian Liniment 5223
Barrels, Brandy, to plaster 695
Beef, Brine for Curing 1608 graphic Crayons 1958
Beef, Essence of 4616, &c. Berries, to can 1636
Beef, Extract of, Liebig's 1609 | Berthold's Chilblain Wash 5295
Beef Marrow, Factitious 6367
Beef, Pickle for Curing.. 1603, 1608
Beef, Sportsman's 1617
Beryl, Imitation 2442
Bessimer's Varnish for Metallic
Paint 2894
Be"ton Coignet 2223
Barrels! Cider, 'to cleanse 841 I Beef, to can 1611 1 Betton's British OU 5361
Barrels, Leaky, WaxPutty for. 696 | Beef, to cure 1607, 1618 i Beyran's Syphilitic Wash 5349
Barrels, to give an appearance
of Age to 693
Barrels, to make, tight 855, 2195
Bartlett's Citrate of Bismuth. . .4813
Beef, to dry 1599
Beef, to dry-salt or pickle 1602
Beef, to keep, fresh 1612
Barwood Dye for Cottons 154 i cess
Beef, to preserve, Pelouze's Pro-
.1605
.1610
Barwood Spirit 110
Baryta 3985
Baryta, Acetate of 4232
Baryta, Antidote for 5899
Baryta, Carbonate of 4233
Baryta, Hydrated 3987
Baryta, Manganate of 4229
Baryta, Muriate of. 4234 I Beer, Finings for 871
Beef, to preserve with Vine-
gar
Beef, to salt by Injection 1604
Beef, to smoke 1600
Beer, Acidity in, to Correct... 868
Beer, Bitter Balls for 870
Beer, Bucking
Baryta, Nitrate of 4230
Baryta, Pure 3986
Baryta, Sulphate of 2697, 4231
Bartya, Test for 3988
Barytes 2697, &c.
Barytic Photographic Solution 3181
3183
Basilicon Ointments 4964, &c.
Basil Vinegar 1771
Bases for Artificial Gems. 2421, &c.
Baskets, Varnish for 2939
Bata via Arrack, Imitation. 700, &c.
Bateman's Itch Ointment 5239
Bateman's Pectoral Drops 5193
Bateman's Sulphur Wash 5274
Bates' Anodyne Balsam 5209
Bates' Eye- Water 5803
Bath for Dyeing 93
Bath, Hot Air 5597
Baths for Manipulations 3, &c.
Baths used in Photography, see
PHOTOGRAPHY.
Bath-Tubs, Iron, to paint 6219
Battley's Senna Powder 5232
Battley's Solution of Opium . . . .5412
Baume, Degrees of, reduced to
Specific Gravity €2, 65, 66
Beer, Flatness in, to remedy. .. 878
Beer, Flavoring for 864
Beer, Foxing 880
Beer, Frosted, to recover 879
Beer, German Bouquet for 882 I Birds! Mocking, Food for
Beer, Ginger 893, &c. Birds, preparation for Stuffing.
Beer, Ginger, Powders for 902 Birds, Singing, Food for 6191
Beer, Heading for. . ;
Beer, Hot Drops for.
Bicarbonates, see CARBONATES.
Bichlorides, see CHLORIDES.
Biett's Solution ............... 5298
Biliousness, Treatment of ..... 5768
Binacetates. see ACETATES.
Binding Knot, to tie a ......... 6263
Bingham's Washing Mixture.. 480
Binoxides, see OXIDES.
Birch's Constipation Pills 5454, 5456
Birch's Acidimeter and Alkali-
meter ....................... 82
Bird Lime .................... 6383
Bird's Blue Fire ............... 2070
Bird's Mode of Silvering on
Glass ....................... 3620
Birds, Antiseptic to preserve.. 1668
Birds, Canary, to clear of Lice. 1921
™ " "--"-- *•— .» -~ 6191
1667
876
891
Birds, to embalm .............. 1666
Birthmarks, to remove ........ 5886
Beer, Lemon .................. 899 ; Bismarck-Brown Aniline Dye 2591
Beer, Mustiness in, to remedy. 877 i Bismuth ...................... 3344
Beer, Ottawa Root ............ 892 Bismuth, Caution against, as a
Beer, Root .................... 889 I Cosmetic .............. •. ____ 1111
Beer, Ropiness in, to remedy- . . 881 Bismuth, Elixir of ............. 5420
Beer, Spring, to brew ......... 883 : Bismuth, Nitrates of .......... 4134
Beer, Spruce.
<fec. ! Bismuth, Oxide of 4136
Beeri Spruce, Powders for '. 903 , Bismuth, Tests for the Salts of.4137
Beer, to brew 856, &c. i Bismuth, to purify 3345
Beer, to impart Age to 875 Bismuth, to Separate from
Beer, to ripen 874 Lead 3346
Beer, to test, for Clarification . . 872 Bissextile or Leap Tear 6064
Beer, Wahoo Root 898
Bees, Stings of, to cure 5927
Beeswax 1577
Beeswax, Imitation 1588
Beeswax, Tests for 1582
Beeswax, to bleach 1578
Baume, Specific Gravity re- | Beeswax, to color 1586
duced to Degrees of 67 ( Beeswax, to refine 1584
Banm6's Areometers 64. 6165 ] Beet-root Pickles 1797
Baum6's Hydrometers 61, 63 | Beet-roots, to preserve 1888
Baum6's Saccharometer 64 Belgian Burnishing Powder 3223
Baume de la Mecque 5111
Banme de Vie 5365
Bell Metal 3348, 3441
Belladonna, Fluid Extract of. .4574
Baume du Commandeur 5419 Belladonna Liniment 4871, 4879
Baume Nerval 5113 | Belladonna, Lotion of 4849
Bay-Rum, Cheap 1029
Bay -Rum, Imitation 1027
Bay-Rum, West Indian 1028
Beach's Black Plaster 5285
Beach's Cure for White Swell-
ing 5777
Beach's Healing Salve 5285
Beach's Neutralizing Cordial.. 5394
Beach's Remedy for Tape-
Worm 5C51
Beach's Remedy for Ulcers 5507
Bean-Flower Water, to distill 1072
Belladonna, Oil of 4752
Belladonna Ointment ... 4943, 4983
Belladonna, Tincture of 4484
Bell's Gargle 5307, 5609
Belting, Cements for joining. . .2245
Bengal Chutney 1762
Bengal Lights 2071
Benzine 1527, 4320
Benzine, Cautions about 346
Benzine, Cement to resist 2161
Benzine Insect Exterminator 1908
Benzine Stains, to remove 6344
Benzine, to Deodorize
Beans, to shell, easily 6230 , ,„
Beans, Vanilla, to grind 6279 j Benzine! to extinguish Burningi532
Bearberry Leaves, Fluid Ex- i Benzine, to purify 440
tract of 4577 ~
Bear's Grease 1277
Bear's Grease, Imitation 1278
Beaut6. Eau de 1146
Beaut6, Pomade de 1164
Beck's Areometers 6158, 6159
Beeoeur's Antiseptic Soaps 1669
Beooni's Antiseptic Soap 1672
Becquerel's Gout Pills. ..5187, 5318
Bed -Bugs, Poison for 1905
Benzoates.
3942
Benzoate of Ethyl 4294
Benzoated Lard 1521
Benzoic Acid 3942
Benzoic Acid, Anhydrous 3944
Benzoic Acid, to obtain 3943
Benzoin, Oil of 1242
Benzoin Pomade 1262
Benzoin, Tincture of 1019, 4567
Benzole 4321
Bed-Bugs, to destroy 1903, &c. j Benzole to test...-".".". .!.4400
Bistre 2692
Bisulphides and Bisulphurets,
see SCLPHDUETS.
Bites of Snakes, Insects, &c., to
cure 5924, &c.
Bitter Almond Paste ....1124
Bitter Almond Water, to 'dis-
till 107], 1073
Bitter Almonds, Essence of 943
Bitter Almonds, Essential Oil
of 1465
Bitter Almonds, Extract of 1033
Bitter Almonds, Extract of,
non-poisonous 1034
Bitter Balls for Beer 870
Bitter Essence 4615
Bittern 4261
Bittern, Brewers' 869
Bitters, Filter for 830
Bitters, made with Essences. . . 829
Bitters, General Receipts for.. 814
Bitter-Swcet, Fluid Extract of 4577
Bitter-Sweet Ointment 4977
Black Ants, to Destroy 1848
Black Ants, to Disperse 1909
Black Aniline Dyes 2571, &c.
Black-Boards, Coating for 6405
Black-Boards, Imitation Slate
for 6353
Black Bronzes 3778, 3708, 3819
Black. Brunswick 2899
Black Cement 2183, 2193
Black Characters, to write, with
Water 1977
Black Cherry Essence, Artifi-
cial... ...1050
Black Cherry Water, to dis-
till 1071, 1073
Black Cohosh, Extract of 4750
Black Cohosh, Fluid Extract of 4575
4592
BLA — BLO
BLO — BON
BON — BRA
569
Black Cohosh, Syrup of 4654
Black Cohosh, Tincture of 4514
Black Copying Paper 1926, 1948
Black Crape, to renovate 462
Black Crape, to clean 470
Black Currant Wine 728
Black Draught 5212
Black Dyes for Cottons 138, &c.
Black D ves for Cotton and Wool
mixed 288
Black Dye for Cotton Silk and
Wool mixed 291, &o.
Black Dye for Ivory 1983
Black Dye for Silk 234, &c., 304
Black Dye for Silk and Wool
mixed <. 290
Black Dye for the Hair.. 1201, &c.,
6401
Black Dye for the Hair, to use. 1202
Black Dye for Wood 2825
Black Dye for Woolens.192, 222, 303
Black Dye for Veneers 2838
Black Enamels 2380, 2398
Black Eye, to treat 5792
Black Eye, to euro 5793
Black for Miniature Painters. .2716
Black from Colorless Liquids. .2627
Black Glazing 2410
Black Inks 2461, &c., 6406
Black Lace Veils, to Wash 466
Black Lacquer for Metals 3064, 3387
Black Lead 4164
Black Lead, to bronze with . . . 3774
Black Lustre-Color for Paper,
&c 2626
Black Oils 4872
Black Pepper, Extract of . .1039
Black Pepper, Oil of 4752
Black Pigments 2716, 2719
Black Plaster 5285
Black Powder for the Hair 1103
Black Precipitate 4143
Black Reviver 458
Black Salve 4971, 5007
Black Sealing- Wax 2316
Black, Shoemaker's 3080
Black Silks, to clean 457
Black Silks, to restore 459
Black Sprinkle for Books 3127
Black Stain for Wood 2843, 2850
2864
Black Varnish, Aniline 2943
Black Varnish for Iron Work. 2900
Black, Vinegar, for Book-Bind-
ers 3118
Black Walnut, see WALNUT
Black Wash, Mercurial 4847
Blackberry Brandy 782, &c.
Blackberry Cordial 5658
Blackberry Root, Fluid Extract
.of 4577
Blackberry Syrup, Aromatic. .4685
Blackberry Syrup for Soda Wa-
ter 1404
Blackberry Wine 731
Blacking for Boots 3086, &c.
Blacking for Harness 3081, &c.
Blacking for Harness, to apply. 3085
Bladder, Spasm of the, to re-
lieve 5741
Bladders, to prepare 6239
Blake's Toothache Cure 5868
Blancard's Pills, Imitation 4930
Eland's Ferruginous Pills 5474
Blanquette 4208
Blasting Powders 2144
Bleaching, General Receipts . . 1714
Bleaching, see ARTICLE to be
bleached
Bleaching Liquor 104, 4786
Bleaching Powder 4245
Bleeding in Vines, to remedy. .1878
Bleeding, to Stop 5556, &c.
Blessed Thistle, Fluid Extract of 4604
Blessed Thistle Tea 5140
Blight on Trees, to Remedy . . 1844,
1846
Blistered Steel 3274
Blistering Plaster 5053, 5087
Blistering Tissue 5083
Blisters, Management of 5088
Blisters, to Camphorate 5089
Block Tia 3314
Blonde Hair Dye 1206 ' Bono, to silver 3628
Blonde Powder for the Hair. . .1104 I Bones of Living Animals, &c.,
Blond, White Silk, to clean... 4731 to dye the 2008
Blood Cement 2172 Bones, to dissolve for Manure. 1820
Blood Maker and Purifier 5165 Bones, to obtain Gelatine from 4366
Blood Root, Fluid Extract of. .4575 | Boneset, Fluid Extract of 4576
Blood Root for Consumption. . .5615 Boneset Tea 5139
Blood Root Syrup 5602, 5614 j Bonnamy's Dentifrice 5469
Blood Root, tincture of 4524 Bonnes St. Sauvcur Water 4464
Blood, Spitting of 5563, 5564
Blood Stains, to detect 6415
Blood Stains, to remove 6341
Blood, Test for the Presence of. 4393
Bloom of Roses 1113
Bloom Sugar 1368
Blue Aniline Dyes. . . 333, 2569, 2602
Blue Bengal Lights 2071, &c.
Blue Cement 2188
Blue Characters, to Write, with
Water 1978, 1980
Blue Copying Paper 1948
Blue Dye" for Cottons. .130, <fec., 160
Blue Dye for Feathers 325
Blue Dye for Ivory 1987
Blue Dye for Silks. . . .254, &c., 306
2610, 2633
Blue Dye for Wood 2829
Blue Dye for Woolens. 204, 217, 232
259, 2609
Blue Enamels 2381
Blue Fires 2069, 2073, 2108
Blue Flag, Tincture of 4518
Blue Fluid for making Ink 2486
Blue Foil for Gems 2450
Blue Glazing 2409
Blue Inks 2478, &c.
Blue Lights 2701, 2118
Blue Liquid Colors. .2615, &c., 2628
2641.
Blue Pigments 2674, 2687
Blue Pills 4919
Blue Sealing Wax 2322
Blue Sprinkle for Books 3103
Blue Stain for Glass 2361
Blue Stain for Marble 2037
Blue Stain for Wood 2862
Blue Stone 120
Blue Vat, to prepare a 119
Blue Verditer 2688
Blue Vitriol 120, 4096
Blue Vitriol. Antidotes for 5904
Bluing for Clothes 2617, &c.
Boards, to clean 426
Boards, to extract Ink from . . . 392
Boards, to extract Stains from . 394
Boards, to find the Content of. 5986
Boards, to scour 427
Boat-bottoms, Paint for 2771
Bochet's Syrup 5360
Body, Proportions of the Hu-
man 6148
Body Vermin, to destroy; 1920
Beeli's Cephalic Snuff 5334
Boettger's Electric Amalgam. .3541
Boettger's Imitation Gems 2445
Boettger's Method of Gilding
on Glass 3597
Boettaror's Test for Silver-plat-
ed Ware 3714
Bohemian Crown Glass 2344
Bohemian Tube Glass 2340
Boiled Oil 2727, &c.
Boiled Oil for Varnish 2872
Boiled Oil for Zinc Paint 2734
Boiled Oil, to brighten 2732
Boiler Incrustations, to pre-
vent 2329, <fec.
Boilers, Paint'for 2774
Boilers, to blow out 6225
Boiling Heat of Liquids 6, 6133
Boiling Heat of Saturated Solu-
tions 7
Boillot's Purification of Fats. .1517
Boils, Treatment of 5553
Boitard's Anisette 802
Boker's Bitters 818
Bond's Compound Mixture of
Iron 5248
Bone Fat 526
Bone Fat, to obtain 1525
Bone Fat, to purify 534
Bone Liniment 4893
Bone, to dye, see IVOKF
Bonnets, Straw, to bleach 1720
Bonnets, Straw, to clean 511
Bookbinders' India-rubber Glue 2293
Bookbinders' Marbles and Sprin-
kles 3102, &o.
Bookbinders' Varnish 2933
Bookbinders' Vinegar Black.. 31 18
Book Covers, to marble.. 3109, &c.
Book Edges, to gild 15574
Book Edges, to sprinkle. . .3102, &c.
Book Musliu, to clear-starch ... 501
Boot Powder 6319
Booth's Axle Grease 1541
Boots, Blacking for 3086, &c.
Boots, French Varnish for 2957
Boots, Jet for 3079
Boots, Sportmen's Composition
for 3071
Boots, to make, waterproof 3069
Boots, White Jean, to clean. . . 453
Boots, White Kid, to clean 454
Borate of Manganese 2735
Borax and Myrrh Mouth Wash 1333
Borax, Glass of 2377
Borax, Honey of 4695
Borax Lotion for Sore Gums.. 11 56
Borax Lotion, Glycerinated ..1157
1162, 5452.
Borax Ointment 4951
Borax Ointment, Glycerinated 4952
Borax, Test for 4389
Botot, Eau 1 324
Bottle-Green Dye for Cottons. . 166
Bottle-Green Dye for Silks. 279, &c.
Bottle-Green Dye for Woolens. 226
Bottle Cocktail 924
Bottle Wax for Sealing Corks. . 929
Bottles, Castor, to clean 433
Bottles, Cements for sealing. . .2238
Bottles, Glass for 2341
Bottles, Gold Labels for 2493
Bottles, to clean 431
Bottles, to cork 930
Bottles, to cut 2369
Bottles, to fill, with Boiling Li-
quids 4617
Bouchardat's Gaseous Purga-
tive 4476
Boudault's Pcpsine Pills 5459
Boudet's Depilatory 1221
Boudet's Test for Olive Oil 1500
Bougies 6369
Bougies, Hollow 6371, 6372
Bouquet de Millefleurs 1065
Bouquet do Rondeletia 1066
Bouquet, Eau de 992
Bouquet, Esprit dc 1002
Bouquet, German, for Beer. . . . 882
Bouquet, Jockey Club 1064
Bouquet Soap 564
Bourbon Whiskey, Imitation . . 683
Bourbon Whiskey, to improve . 6293
Bouyer's Syrop do Lait Iodique5332
Bowline Knot, to tic a 6265
Boxes, Capacity of 6004, 6005
Boxwood, to stain, brown 2865
Boyle's Fuming Liquor 5353
Boyle's Lute for Retorts 2266
Braconnot's Artificial Wax. . . .1589
Braconnot's Glue of Caseino. . .2294
Brainard's Solution 5453
Bran, Prepared, for the Hair.. 1102
Brandish's Alkaline Solution . .5357
Brandish's Alkaline Tincture of
Rhubarb 5356
Brandreth's Pills 5391
Brandy 1435
Brandy Bitters 823
Brandy, Blackberry 782, &c.
Brandy, Cherry 784, 791
Brandy, Filter for 17, 709
Brandy, Imitation 676, &c.
Brandy, Peach 785, 813
Brandy, Peppermint 787
BRI — BUI
BOL — CAL
Brandy Punch 919
Brandy Smash 925
Brass 3358, &c.
Brass, Bronzing for. 3779, 3784, 3797
Brass, Dark . . .:5368
Brass expanding equally with
Iron... 3376
Brass, Flux for soldering. 3480, 3531
Brass for Buttons 3364
Brass for Castings 3367
Brass for Gilding 33fi9
Brass for Solder 3371
Brass for Turning 3372
Brass for Wire 3375
Brass, Inlaid, to clean 3392
Brass, Inlaid, to polish 2982
Brass, Lacquers for. .3048, &c., 3387
Brass, Malleable 3360
Brass Ornaments, to color 3396
Brass, Pale . . .3365, 3369, 3372, 3375
Brass, Paste for cleaning 3391
Brass Red 3363, 3370, 3373
Brass, Sheet 3348
Brass Solder 3512
Brass, Solder for 3507 &c., 3517
Brass, Solutions for cleaning. . . 3393
Brass, to clean 3389
Brass, to clean, for lacquering. 3047
Brass, to coat Metal with 3633, <S.-c.
Brass, to coat, with Silver 3607
Brass, to coat, with Tin. .3644, 3648
Brass, to coat, with Zinc 3651
Brass, to coat Zinc with 3655
Brass, to color. 3188, 3313, 3379, 3382
&c., 3390
Brass, to electroplate on 3711
Brass, to electroplate with 3752, 3769
Brass, to frost 3381
Brass, to give an English look to 3388
Brass, to give a Moire appear-
ance 3386
Brass, to harden 3377
Brass, to lacquer 3046
Brass, to platinize 3658
Brass, to protect 3765
Brass, to put a Black Finish on 3380
Brass, to scour 3271
Brass, to soften 3378
Brass Solution, to prepare 3768
Brass, Yellow 3348, 3359
Brazilian Money 6115
Brazilian Weights and Mea-
sures 6116, &c.
Brazing or Hard Soldering 3488
Bread Poultice 5019
Breast, Sore, Salve for... 4985, 4990
5290.
Breast, Sore, Wash for 5393
Breath, Bad, Pastils for. .1336, 5405
5462.
Breath, Bad, to cure 5859, &c.
Breath, Odor of Onions in, to
correct 5864
Breath, Shortness of, remedy for 5764
Breath, Shortness of, to relieve. 5765
Brewers' Yeast 1808
Brewing 856
Brewing, Important Hints on . . 863
Brewing, Utensils for 857
Brewing Utensils, to clean 6333
Brick-dust Cement 6386
Bricks, Number required for
Paving 6000
Bricks, Number required for
Walls 6000
Bricks, Red Wash for 2809
Brickwork, Measurement of. . .6000
Brickwork, to pencil or point. .2792
Brighton Chalybeate Water ..4469
Brimstone, see ScLi'HUK.
Briony Root, to dry 1889
Bristles, to dye 662
Bristles, to stiffen 661
Britannia Metal aT48, 3417
Britannia Metal, Flux for sol-
dering 3484
Britannia Metal, to clean 3418
Britannia Metal, to electroplate
on 3711
British Oil 5361
British AVcights und Measures 6031
Brittleneea of Metals, Compara-
tive 3357
Brix's Areometers ....... 6161, 6162
Brocatelle Curtains, to clean. . . 450
Brodie's Decoction of Pareira
Brava ...................... 5310
Brodie's Liniment ............. 5282
Brodum's Nervous Cordial ..... 5351
Bromides ..................... 4261
Bromide of Ammonium ....... 4227
Bromide of Ammonium, Elixir
of ........................... 5374
Bromide of Cadmium ......... 4263
Bromide of Potassium ........ 419g
Bromide of Potassium, Elixir of 5449
Bromide of Sodium ........... 423 4
Bromide of Sodium, Elixir of. .5215
Bromide Paper, Photographic .3 172
Bromine ...................... 4261
Bronchitis, Treatment of ...... 5596
Bronze ....................... 3348
Bronze-Brown Dye for Silks. . . 245
Bronze, Fontainemoreau's ..... 3448
Bronze, Lacquer for ........... 305fi
Bronze, Phosphorus ........... 3447
Bronze, to clean ............... 3450
Bronze, to electroplate on ...... 3711
Bronzing ................. 3771, <fcc.
Bronzing Fluids, 3817, &c., 3778, &c.
3797, &c.
Bronzing for Wood ............ 3825
Bronzing on Brass. .3779, 3784, 3797
Bronzing on Copper. 3772, 3780, 3787
3807, <fec.
Bronzing on Iron Castings ____ 3791
Bronzing on Medals ...... 3772, <fcc.
Bronzing on Paper ............ 3793
Bronzing on Plaster Casts ..... 3824
Bronzing on Porcelain ........ 3827
Bronzing on Tin Castings ..... 3790
Bronzing on Zinc. . . ..... 3797, 3811
Bronzing Powders ..3794, &c., 3823
Bronzing, Surface ............. 3792
Brooms, Management of.. ..... 6217
Brown Bronzes ...... 3772, 3798, &c
Brown Aniline Dye ....... 2589, &c.
Brown Characters, to write, with
Water ....................... 1979
Brown Dye for Cotton ..... 142, &c.
Brown Dye for Cotton and Wool 289
Brown Dyo for Silks ....... 241, &c.
Brown Dye for Woolens 193,223, 305
Brown Enamels ............... 2382
Brown Glazing ................ 2411
Brown Hair-Dyes ............. 1211
Brown Marking-Ink ^ ........ 2513
Brown Mixture ............... 5588
Brown Ointment .............. 4959
Brown Sealing Wax .......... 2321
Brown Sprinkle for Bookbind-
ers ..................... 3105, 3125
Brown Stain for Boxwood ..... 2865
Brown Stain for Glass ......... 2361
Brown Stain for Marble ....... 2038
Brown Staiu for Wood . . .2853, &c.
Brown Tint for Iron and Steel. 3262
Brown Windsor Soap ......... 559
Brown's Bronchial Troches ---- 5256
Brown's Cholera Mixture ...... 5668
Brucine, or Brucia ............ 4006
Bruises in Furniture, to take
out ......................... 6221
Bruises, Liniment for ____ 4887, 4889
Bruises, Poultice for ........... 5025
Brunswick Black ............. 2899
Brunswick Green ............. 2710
Brushes, Feather, to make ..... 6203
Brushes for Varnishing ....... 2977
Brushes, Hair, to clean ........ 416
Brust Thee ................... 5425
Bryant & James' Blacking 3092, 3099
Buehner's Carmine Ink ....... 2501
Suchncr's Soluble Soda Glass. .2819
3uchu, Fluid Extract of. .4574, 4590
Buchu Leaves, Infusion and
Tincture of ................. 5150
Sucking Beer ................. 880
3uff Dye for Cottons ...... 135, &c.
3uff Dye for Silks ............ 269
3ugs, Croton, to destroy ....... 1902
3ugs. Bed, see BED-BOGS.
Building Materials, Heat Con-
ducting Power of ............ 6125
Suflding-Stone, Artificial ...... 2219
Buisson'a Purple of Cassius.. .2723
Bulbous Roots, to dry .......... 1889
Bulbous Roots, to preserve ..... 1888
Buinstead's Gonorrhoea Injec-
tion ......................... 5438
Bungs, Leaky, Wax Putty for. 696
Bunions, to cure .............. 5867
Bunsen's Rapid Filtration ..... 38:58
Burdock, Fluid Extract of ..... 4596
Burdocks, to destroy .......... 1868
Burgundy -Pitch Plaster ....... 5052
Bnrnet vinegar ............... 1771
Burnett's Antiseptic Solution.. 1656
Burnett's Disinfecting Fluid. . .1695
Burns, Blistered, to cure ...... 5520
Burns caused by Gunpowder,
to treat ..................... 5523
Burns, Liniment for ........... 5472
Bums, Recent, to cure ........ 5514
Burns, Slight, to cure .......... 5520
Bums, Superficial, to cure ..... 5515
Burns and Scalds, Treatment of 5512
Bushel, Imperial .............. 5970
Bushel, New York ............ 5970
Bushel, Weight of a, of various
Goods ....................... 5974
Bushel, Winchester ........... 5970
Bushes, Blight in, to remove. . .1846
Bushes, Insects on, to remove. .1845
Bussang Water ............... 4470
Busts, to Bronze .............. 3781
Busts, to electrotype ........... 3693
Butter of Antimony ........... 4131
Butter, Rancid, to restore ...... 1625
Butter, Strong, to improve ..... 1626
Butter, to color ................ 2635
Butter, to preserve ....... 1620, &o.
Butter, to prevent Rancidity in 1493
Butternut Pills ................ 5319
Buttons, Brass for ............. 3364
Buttons. Copper, to silver-coat. 3609
Butyrates ..................... 39fiC
Butyrate of Ethyl .............. 4293
Butyrate of Magnesia ...... , . . 4260
Butyric Acid ............. t ____ 3966
Butyric Ether ................. 4293
Butyriue ...................... 4260
Cabbage, Pickled ............. 1799
Cabinet Varnish .............. 2893
Cacao Pomade for the Lips,
&c .......................... 1136
Cachou Aromatise ............ 1336
Cadet's Syrup of Ipecacuanha. 4682
Cadmium Alloys, Dentists'. . . .34:58
Cadmium Amalgam, Dentists' 3544,
3549.
Cadmium, Bromide of ......... 4263
Cadmium, Iodide of ......... . 4262
Cadmium Red ................ 2700
Cadmium Yellow ..... ...2638,2700
Caffeine ...................... 4010
Caieput Liniment ............. 4890
Calamine ..................... 5761
Calamus, Essential Oil of ...... 1465
Calcination ................... 3849
Calcium, Chloride of .......... 4246
Calendar, Universal ........... 6147
alcium, Chloride of, to pre-
pare ........................ 4247
^nlicoes, to clean ............. 448
California Brown Dye for Silks 241
2ulifornia Champagne ........ 720
sulis:iy:i and Bismuth, Elixir
of ..................... 4700, 4701
)alisaya and Protoxide of Iron,
Elixir of .................... 4702
^alisa y;l, Elixir of ....... 4698, 4701
/alisaya, Ferrophosphorated
Elixir of ............... 4699, 4700
Cnlisaya, Fluid Extract of ..... 4577
alisaya, Precipitated Extract
of .......................... 4706
^alisaya, Wine of ............. 4711
ballot's Eau Forte, or Etching
Fluid ....................... 2962
Calomel ...................... 4138
Calomel, Antidotes for ........ 5902
'alomel Pills ................. 4920
Calomel, Use of, in Cholera ____ 5673
Jalotype Paper ............... 3170
alumba, Infusion of .......... 5121
Jalvcrt's Tests for Pure Oils.. 149(1
Jnlvctti's Manna Lemonade. . .5247
CAM — CA1J
CAR — CAT
CAT — CHA
571
Cambric, to clear-starch 501
Cainellia-Cuttings, to manage. 1831
Camp Vinegar 1777
Camphor 4357
Camphor Black 2716
Camphor Drops 4611
Camphor, Essence of 4611
Camphor Ico 1132
Camphor Julep 4611
Camphor Liniment 4880
Camphor Mixture 5387
Camphor Ointment 4941, 540:)
Camphor, Spirits of 4803
Camphor, Tincture of 4G11
Camphor, to pulverize 4358
Camphor Water. . . .4754, 47GG, 431 1
Camphorated Blisters 5089
Camphorated Chalk 1290
Camphorated Lotion. 4822, 4844
Camphorated Oil 4863
Canada Balsam - 5100
Canada Balsam, Factitious 5101
Canada Liniment 5280
Canada Varnish 2921
Canary Birds, to clear of Lico. 11)21
Cancer Ointment 5386
Cancer, Plaster for 5047
Cancer, Remedy for 5748, 5772
Candles, Aromatio 1351
Candles, Home-made 631, &c.
Candles, Lard 036
Candles, Scented 1351
Candles, Tallow for C35
Candles, Tallow, to harden 637
Candle-Wicks, to improve G231
Candle- Wicks, to make 632
Candy, Degrees of boiling Sugar
for 1368
Candy, Live-Long 5260
Candy, Molasses 6280
Candying, to prevent Syrup
from 1365
Cane Seats of Chairs, to clean. 419
Cane, Staining for 2866
Canella, Fluid Extract of 4579
Canclla Water, to distill. 1071, 1073
Canning, see ARTICLE to be canned.
Canning, to expel the Air in. . .1637
Canning, to insure Success in. 1635
Cantharidal Collodion 4742
Cantharides Liniment... 4874, 4891
Cantharides, Oil of 4752
Cantharides Ointment 5017
Cantharides Plasma 5010
Cantharides Plaster 5053
Cantharides, Tinctui-3 of 4539
Cantharides, Vinegar of 1178
Canton's Phosphorus 4335
Canvas, Flexible Paint for 2765
Canvas, to render Fireproof 1563
Canvas, to render Waterproof .1561
Caoutchouc Cement 2257
Caoutehoucine 2249
Capaccioni's process for Harden-
ing Tallow 638
Capillaire Syrup for Cordials.. .1380
Capsicum, Extract of 1040
Capsicum, Fluid Extract of 4579
Capsicum, Oil of 4752
Capsicum, Syrup of 4670
Capsicum, Tincture of 4486
Capsules, Copaiba 541(5
Capsules, Copaiba and Tar 5417
Capsules, Gelatine 6333
Caramel 694, 1368
Caramel, to purify 2632
Caraway Cordial 769, 789, 6292
Caraway, Essential Oil of 1465
Carbolic Acid 391G
Carbolic Acid, Antidote- for... 5915
Carbolic Acid as a Disinfect-
ant 1698
Carbolic Acid as a Preserva-
tive 1673
Carbolic Acid Gargle 5066
Carbolic Acid Lotion 4835
Carbolic Acid Paper 1614
Carbolic Acid Soap 581
Carbolic Acid Solution 4800
Carbolic Acid, Test for . .1647, 3918
Carbolic Acid, to deodorize 3919
Carbolic Acid, to obtain 3917
Carbolic Cerate 4903
Carbolic Plaster 50C1 | Catechu, Tincture of 4547
Carbolic Salve 4996 | Catechn, to prepare, for dyeing SO
Carbon Ink 2514, 2530 j Caterpillars, to drive away 1923
Carbon, Sulphurets of 4309, <kc
Carbonates 3913
Carbonate of Ammonia. . .4219, &c.
Carbonate of Ammonia, Solu-
tion 4792
Carbonate of Baryta 4233
Carbonate of Cobalt 4252
Carbonate of Iron, Saccharine.4163
Carbonate of Lead 2693
Carbonate of Lime Water, Aer-
ated 4435
Carbonate of Lithia 42138
Carbonate of Magnesia 4240
Carbonate of Potassa 4181, <tc.
Carbonate of Soda 4208, <fec.
Carbonate of Soda Solutions,
Table of 627
Carbonate of Zinc 4112
Carbonic Acid 3913, 4063
Carbonic Acid, Antidotes for. .5913
Carbonic Acid, Testa for 3915
Carbonic Acid, to obtain 3914
Carbonic Acid Water 4431
Carbonic Oxide 4064
Carbonic Oxide, to obtain 4065
Carbuncle 5554
Carbuncle, Imitation Gem 2429
Carburet of Iron 4164
Carburetted Hydrogen. . . .4048, <tc.
Cardamom, Fluid Extract of. . .4579
Cardamom, Tincture of. .1023, 4540
4568.
Card- Work, to varnish 2965
Card- Work, Varnish for 2939
Carlsbad Water 4438
Cannes, Eau des 988
Carminatives 5087
Carminative, Dalby's 5172
Carminative, Dewee's 5250
Carminative Drops 5689
Carminative, Murphy's 5388
Carmine Ink 2501
Carmine Purple Dye 2029
Carmine Rouge 1112
Carmine, to brighten 2679
Carmine, to make 2677
Carpets, to clean 444
Carpets, to preserve 6242
Carpets, to remove Grease from 358
Carpets, to remove Oil from... 357
Carpets, to sweep 447
Carpets, Stair, to preserve 0199
Carrara Water, Aerated 4435
Carnage Varnishes 2877
Carron Oil 5513
Carrot Poultice 5024
Carrots, to preserve 1888
Carthamine 2683
Cascarilla Water, to distill 1071,
Case Hardening 3297, &c.
Caseine Glue 2294
Casks, Leaky, Wax Putty for. 096
Casks, to clean 854
Casks, to prepare, for Cider 839, 854
Casks, Varnish for Inside of. . .2970
Cassia, Essence of 970
Cassia, Oil of 1227
Cassia Pomade 1263
Cast Iron, see IRON
Cast Iron, to coat, with Copper 3035
Cast Iron, to coat with Zinc . . . 3(550
Cast Steel, see STEEL.
Castilian Tooth-Cream 1311
Castillon's Powders 5475
Castings, Brass for 3367
Castings, German Silver for... 3411
Castor Bottles, to wash 433
Castor Oil, Coloring for 6323
Castor Oil Pomade 127G
Castor Oil, Tincture of 4541
Castor Oil, to bleach 1504
Castor Oil, to disguise the Taste
of 5888, &c.
Castor Oil, to purify 1503
Castor Oil, to test 1409, 1501
j Cataract, Mixture for 5808
I Catarrh, Treatment of 5586
! Catawba Champagne 719
Catechu Dyes for Cottons. . .147, 181
. Catechu Ointment 4945
Cathartic Pills 4917, 5303, 5316
Cathay, Creme do 1128
Catheters 6371
Cathode of a Battery 3667
Cats, to drive Fleas from 1913
Catsups 1766, &e.
Catsups, Cautions to bo observ-
ed ia making 1766
Cattle, Live, Weight of 6127
Cauliflower, Pickled 1792
Caustics 5074, &c.
Caustic Alkali 5357
Caustic Alkali, to test 584, &c.
Caustic Black 5330
Caustic for Corns 5079
Caustic Iodine 5077
Caustic Iodine Solution 5422
Caustic Lint 5076
Caustic Lve, Soapmakers'..519, 588
Caustic Lyes, Tables of 629, 630
Caustic Potash 101, 4192
Caustic Potash, to test 585
Caustic Soda 102
Caustic Soda, to test 585
Caustic, to apply, to the Ure-
thra 5737
Caustic, Vegetable 5075, 5825
Cauterets Water 4464
Cayenne Pepper 1789
Cayenne Pepper and Salt, Infu-
sion of 5312
Cazenavc's Antiseptic Lotion . . 4850
Cazenavc's Lotion of Cyanide of
Potassium 1158
Cazenavc's Pomade 1280
Ceilings, Cement for 2171
Celery, Extract of. 1043
Celery Vinegar 1772
Celsius' Thermometer 85
Cements 2151, &.c.
Cement, Colored 2182, &c.
Cement, Elastic 6391
Cement for Building Purposes. 2173
2181, G38G.
Cement fcr Cracked Iron Pots 6387
Cement for Glass Letters 6312
Cement fcr Sealing Bottles 2239
Cement, Tooth 5878, fee.
Cement to resist Sulphuric
Acid 6311
Cementation, Steel made by... 3274
Cementing, see ARTICLE to be
joined.
Cementing, General Directions
for 2151
Ccncttc's Process for Carmine. 2678
Centigrade, Fahrenheit and
Reaumur Compared 92
Centigrade Thermometer 85
Centigrade, to reduce Fahren-
heit to 87
Centigrade, to reduce Reaumur
to.
Centigrade, to reduce, to Fah-
renheit 86
Centigrade, to reduce, to Reau-
mur 90
Cephalic Snuff 3533, 3334
Cerates 4931
Cerates, see SALVES
Cerise Aniline Dye 2578
Chafing, Remedy for 5819
Chalk, Camphorated 1290
Chalk Drawings, to fix 1960
Chalk Mixture 4747
Chalk, Precipitated 1291
Chalk, Prepared : 1 292
Chalk, to detect, in Milk 4376
Chalybeate Waters. .4467, <tc., 4474
Chameleon Mineral 2637
Chamomile, Essence of 461:5
Chamomile, Fluid Extract of. .4597
Chamomile, Oil of 4752
Chamomilc, Syrup of 4678
Chamomile Water, to distill. . . 1071
1073.
Champaguat'ii India-Rubber
Varnish 2889
Champagne, Cheap 723, &c.
Champagne, Grape 6417
572 CHA — CHI
Home-Made 730
Imitation 713, &c.
Syrup for 715
to gas 718
to prepare for
Champagne
Champagne
Champagne
Champagne
Champagne . .
Charging 717
Champagne-Cider 844, &c.
Champagne-Cider, Imitation.. 847
Chandler's Chlorodyne 5204
Channing's Mixture 531
Chapped Hands, to cure 5822
Chapman's Copaiba Mixture.. 5263
Chapman's Peristaltic Persua-
ders 5320
Chaps, Borax Lotion for 1157
Charcoal, Alumenized 1730, 4314
Charcoal, Animal 1752
Charcoal, Areca-nut 1302
Charcoal as an Antiseptic 1648
Charcoal Crayons 1971
Charcoal, Caution about 1649
Charcoal Filter 17
Charcoal for Dentifrice 1317
Charcoal from Coal Tar 1731
Charcoal Poultice 5026
Charcoal, Prepared 1294
Charcoal, Properties of 1729
Charcoal, to]change the Color of
Flowers by 1833
Charcoal Tooth-Paste 1316
Charta Epispastica 5350
Chartreuse, Liqueur de la
Grande 806, 6291
Chaudet's Springs for Artificial
Teeth 3406
Chaussier's Obstetric Ointment 5341
Chauvet's Anisette 803
Cheese, to make 1592, &c.
Chelsea Pensioner 5302
Chemic 162, 2616
Chemical Drying 3842
Chemical Equivalents. . . .6150, 6151
Chemical Food '. 4645
Chemical Glasses, Cement for. .2237
Chemical Manipulations 1, 3830
Chemicals, Miscellaneous 4074
Chemical Nomenclature 3853
Chemical Soap 546
Chemical Washing 3841
Cherry Bounce 793
Cherry Brandy 784
Cherry, Currant, and Kaspberry
Wine 728
Cherry Essence, Artificial 1049
Cherry Juice 791
Cherry Laurel Lotion 1161
Cherry Laurel Water 1071,1073
Cherry Pectoral 5267
Cherry Syrup 1381
Chorry Vinegar 1780
Cherry Wine 728
Chewing Gum 6317
Chicory, Test for, in Coffee 4373
Chilblain 5832
Chilblain Liniment. 4883, 4891, 5398
Chilblain Ointment 4934, 5403
Chilblain, Remedies for. . .5833, &c.
Chilblain Wash 5295, 5398, 5401
Childbirth, Remedy for After-
pains 5722
Children's Heads, to destroy
Vermin in 1919
Chili Vinegar 1776
Chimneys, to examine 6410
Chimneys, to put out Fire in. . .6209
China-Crape Scarfs, to wash.. 465
China-Ware, see PORCELAIN.
Chinese Bronze 3776
Chinese Cement 2155
Chinese Depilatory 1222
Chinese Fire 2055
Chinese Japanning 3038
Chinese Marble for Books 3120
Chinese Money 6110
Chinese Varnish, Imitation 2923
Chinese Weights and Measures 6111
Chinese White Copper 3414
Chintz, to clean 448
Chintz, to preserve the Colors of 487
Chintz, to Wash 492
Chiretta, Fluid Extract of 4576
Chiretta Pills 5192
Chiretta, Tincture of 4516
CHL — CHB
Moral 4276
Moral, Hydrate of 4276
hloral, Hydrate of, to purify. .4278
hlorates 3962
hlorate of Potassa.4184, &c., 4856
hlorate of Potassa, Caution in
using 2124
hlorie Acid 3963
Moric Acid, to obtain 3964
Ihloric Ether 4297
Chlorides 4069
Chloride, Auric 4075
Chloride, Anrous 4075
Chloride of Antimony 4131
Chloride of Barium 4234
Chloride of Barium Solution . .4774
Chloride of Calcium 4246
Chloride of Calcium, Solution
of 4778,4780
Chloride of Cobalt 4251
Chloride of Copper 4097
Chloride of Ethyl 4290
Chloride of Gold 3725, 4075
Chloride of Iron 117, 4165
Chloride of Iron, Tincture of. .4504
Chloride of Iron, Syrup of. 4660, 4662
4665.
Chloride of Lead 4102
Chloride of Lime 4245
Chloride of Lime Disinfectant. 1704
Chloride of Lime, Lotion of . . .4830
Chloride of Lime, Solution of . .4786
Chloride of Magnesium 4243
Chloride of Mercury 4138, &c.
Chloride of Mercury, Lotion of 1145
Chloride of Mercury and Am-
monia 4142
Chloride of Nickel 4174
Chloride of Platinum 3220, 4084, &c.
Chloride of Potassa, Lotion of. 4832
Chloride of Potassa, Solution of 4787
Chloride of Potassium 4199
Chloride of Silver 3214, 3216
Chloride of Soda, Lotion of 4831
Chloride of Soda, Solution of . .4788
Chloride of Sodium 4215
Chloride of Tin 4123, 4124
Chloride of Tin, Solution of . . .1653
Chloride of Zinc 4109, 4111
Chlorinated Lime 4245
Chlorinated Poultice 5038
Chlorinated Soda, Solution of.. 4788
Chlorine 4069
Chlorine, Antidote for 5916
Chlorine, Tests for 4071
Chlorine, to obtain 4070
Chlorodyne 5200, &c.
Chlorodyne Mixture 5655
Chloroform 4271
Chloroform Elixir 4730
Chloroform Liniment 4876
Chloroform Ointment 4982
Chloroform, Pure 4273
Chloroform Syrup 4659
Chloroform, Tests for 427,r
Chloroform, to obtain 427S
Chloroform, to purify 4274
Chlorurets, see CHLORIDES.
Chocolate Dye for Cottons 14£
Chocolate, French 627f
Chocolate, Plain 6275
Chocolate, Spanish Aromatic .. 6277
Chocolate, Spanish Almond and
Vanilla 6278
Chocolate Syrup 1409
Choke Damp 3913
Cholagogue 52(il, 5396
Cholera Morbus, see DIARRHCEA.
Cholera, Preventive against. . .566
5671.
Cholera, Remedies for 5666, &c.
Cholera, Treatment of . . 5662, <fcc.
Christison's Flux for Arsenic. .3469
Chromate Photographic Solu-
tion 3182
Chromates 394J
Chromate of Lead 4104, 4105
Chromate of Potassa, Red 4187
Chromate of Potassa, Red, Sub-
stitute for 4188
Chromate of Potassa, Yellow.. 4186
Chromatype Paper 3173
Chrome Dyes for Cottons.. 183, &c.
CHR — CLA
Chrome Dyes for Woolens. 221, &o.
Chrome Green 2715
Chrome Orange 2707
Chrome Red 2706, 4105
Chrome Yellow 2705, 4104
Chromic Acid £945, 3946
Chromium, Oxide of 2701
Chrysolite, Imitation 2437
Churns, to keep, from frothing. 6286
Chutney, Bengal 1762
Cider, Antiferments for 763, &c.
Cider Barrels, to cleanse 841
Cider Champagne 844, &c.
Cider, Rules for Making 836, &c.
Cider, to bottle 843
Cider, to can 840
Cider, to clarify 842, 853
Cider, to fine 747
Cider, to imitate 847, <to.
Cider, to keep, sweet 852
Cider, to make 832
Cider, to prepare Casks for 839
Cider, to preserve 835
Cider Vinegar 1740
Cider Wine 732
Cigars, Anodyne 5133
Cigars, Anti-choleraic 1350
Cigars, Disinfecting 1350
Cigars for Hoarseness. . .5617, 5619
Cigars for Pulmonary Consump-
tion 5616
Cigars, to scent 1350
Cimicifuga Racemosa, Fluid Ex-
tract of 4575
Cimicifuga Racemosa, Tincture
of 4514
Cinchona, Fluid Extract of 4605
Cinchona, Tincture of 4487, 4544
Cinchona, Wine of 4710
Cinchonine or Cinchonia 4002
Cinchonine, Test for, in Quinine 4029
Cinnabar 2682
Cinnamon-Brown Dye for Cot-
tons •. 144
Cinnamon, Essence of 971
Cinnamon, Essential Oil of 1465
Cinnamon, Essential Oil of, Test
for 1481
Cinnamon, Extract of. 1036
Cinnamon, Oil of 1227
Cinnamon Pomade 1262
Cinnamon Soap 573
Cinnamon Syrup 1379
Cinnamon Water 4756
Circles, Properties of 6126
Circles, Segments of, Area of. . 5991
Circles, Sectors of, Area of 5992
Circles, to find the Area of 5987, 5988
Cisterns, Capacity of 6012
Cisterns, Cement for lining 2181
Cisterns, to make 6358
Cisterns, to purify Water in.. 1701
1712
Citrates 3932
Citrate of Bismuth, Solution of. 4812
Citrate of Bismuth and Ammo-
nia, Solution of 4814
Citrate of Bismuth, Preparation
of 4813
Citrate of Iron 4160
Citrate of Iron, Solution of 4815
Citrate of Magnesia, Efferves-
cing 4809, &.O.
Citrate of Magnesia, Solution
of 4805
Citrate of Potassa, Solution of. 4808
Citric Acid 3932
Citric Acid, Syrup of 4680
Citric Acid, Tests for 3934
Citric Acid, to detect Tartaric
Acid in 3931
Citric Acid, to obtain 3933
Citrine Ointment 4947
Civet, Essence of 972
Civet, Oil of 1228
Claret Punch 921
Claret-Red Dye for Woolens. ..198
308
Claret Stains, to remove 369
Claret Syrup 1423
Claret, to flavor, with Amber-
gris 964
Clarification 17
CLA — COL
COL — CON
CON — COP
573
Clarifying, see ARTICLE to be
clarified
Clay for Grafting 1882
Clay for Modeling 6321
Cleaning, &c., General Receipts
for 337, &.O.
Cleaning or Cleansing, Bee AR-
TICLE to be cleaned
Cleansing in Brewing 862
Cleveland's Tooth Wash 1331
Clinker, to remove, from Fire-
Brick 6241
Cloaks, to waterproof 1554
Close's Indestructible Ink 2528
Cloth, Cements for joining 2245
Cloth, Cotton, to bleach 125
Cloth, Cotton, to prepare for
dyeing 124
Cloth, Emery 1035
Cloth, Glass 1933
Cloth Measure 5994
Cloth, Printed, to clean 452
Cloth, Stone 1934
Cloth, to cement, to Metal 2233
Cloth, to paste, to Wood 2275
Cloth, to raise the Nap on 401
Cloth, to render, Waterproof . . 1553
6313
Clothes Pins and Lines, to pre-
serve 6394
Clothes, to fold, after drying. . . 502
Clothes, to iron 503
Clothes, to render, Waterproof 1553
Clothes, Woolen, to clean 442
Clothes, Woolen, to preserve
from Moth 654
Clove-Hitch Knot, to tie a 6264
Clover, Artificial Manure for . 1826
Cloves, Essential Oil of 1465
Cloves, Essential Oil of, Test for 1485
Cloves, Fluid Extract of 4579
Cloves, Oil of 1227
Glutton's Febrifuge Spirit 5194
Glutton's Febrifuge Tincture . .5195
Coal Oil, Crude, see PETROLECM.
Coal Oil, Refined, see KEROSENE.
Coal Tar, Charcoal from 1731
Coathupe's Ink 2484
Cobalt 4249
Cobalt, Acetate of 4253
Cobalt Blue 2690
Cobalt, Carbonate of 4252
Cobalt, Chloride of 4251
Cobalt, Nitrate of 4250
Cobalt, Peroxide of 4250
Cobalt, to electroplate with 3766
Cochineal, Adulteration of ... .2680
Cochineal Dyes for Woolens 246, <fcc.
Cochineal Liquid Coloring 2623, &c.
Cochineal Liquor 106
Cochineal Paste 106
Cochrane's Cough Medicine... 5363
Cockroaches, to drive away... 1923
Cockroaches, to exterminate ..1901
Cocktail, Bottled 924
Cocoa-NutOil 527
Cocoa-Nut Oil Soap 542, 593
Codeine, or Codeia 4000
Cod-Liver Oil, Emulsion of. . . .5437
Cod-Liver Oil Ointment 4975
Cod-Liver Oil, to dissolve Iod-
ine in .... 4328
Coffee Cream-Syrup 1433
Coffee Flavoring for Liquors. . 673
Coffee, French, to make 6287
Coffee Syrup for Cordials 1378
Coffee Syrup for Soda Water .1418
Coffee, Test for Chicory in 4373
Cognac Bitters, French 815
.Cognac Brandy, Imitation 679
Cognac, Essence of 675
Cognac Oil 1408
Cognac Oil, Test for 677
Cohobation in Distilling 1466
Coins, Ancient Roman 6057
Coins, Copper, to preserve 6238
Coins, Old, to develop Inscrip-
tions on 6237
Coins, to clean 3239
Coins, to keep from Tarnishing 3225
Coins, to take Moulds of. .3672, &c.
Colchicine 4008
Colchicum, Fluid Extract of. . .4576
Colchicum, Opiated Wine of. . .5389
Colchicum, Tincture of 4549
Colcothar 2703, 4154
Cold, to cure a 5597
Cold Cream 1125, &c.
Cold Feet, Remedy for, at Night 5831
Cold in the Head, to cure 5585
Cold with Cough, to cure 5605
Cold Silvering 3(ill
Colepress's Wine 728
Colic, Lead or Painters', to
cure 5692,5693
Collier's Wine of Quinine 5199
Collin's Disinfecting Powder. .1699
Collodion, Cantharidal 4742
Collodion, Flesh Colored 1168
Collodion for the Skin 1167
Collodion, Glyeerinated 1169
Collodion, Gun Cotton for 4743
Collodion, Morphia 4745
Collodion, Photographic 3149
Collodion Pictures, to clean off 3167
Collodion Plastic Material 2204
Collodion, Styptic 5559, 5562
Collodion, to prepare 4744
Collodion Varnish 2922
Collodion Varnish, for Photo-
graphy 3162
Colocynth 4554
Cologne, Essence of 950
Cologne Tooth-Wash 1329
Cologne Water 976, &.o.
Cologne Water, Ammoniated . 1096
Cologne Water, Concentrated. 950
Colored Amandine 1120
Colored Bronzing for Brass. . . .3783
3797, &c.
Colored Cements 2182, &c.
Colored Fires 2065, &c.
Colored Fires for Illuminations 2066
2106
Colored Fires for Indoors. 2119, &c.
Colored Fires for Stars 2067
Colored Flames 2128
Colored Flashes, Paper for mak-
ing 2125
Colored Lights 2112
Colored Muslins, to wash 486
Colored Stars 2064
Coloring for Curacoa 800
Coloring for Fats 1257
Coloring for the Hair 1215
Coloring, see ARTICLE to be col-
ored.
Colors, Aniline 2552, &c.
Colors, Effect of Acids and Alka-
lies on 361
Colors, Improved Vehicles for. 2724
Colors, Liquid 2614, &c.
Colors of Fabrics, to preserve. 487.
491
Colors, Substantive 93
Colors, to restore, by Reagents.. 362
Colors used for Marbling Books 3102
Colpin's India-Rubber Varnish 2952
Colt's Foot, Essence of 4612
Columbo, Fluid Extract of 4576
Columbo, Tincture of 4550
Combs, to clean 416
Complexion, Cosmetics for the. 1116
Composite Soap 545
Composition for Moulds 3084
Composition for Ornaments ...2202
6234.
Composition for Rockets 2054
Composition for Washing 6306
Composition for Welding. 3523, &c.
Composition for Wounds on
Trees 1877, 1879
Composition Powder for Dys-
pepsia 5321
Composts for the Soil 1821
Compound Tinctures, see TINC-
TUKES.
Concentrated Infusions 38
Concentration 8
Concrete 2205
Concrete for Floors and Walks 2206
Condensed Milk 1597, 5470
Condy's Fluid 5440
Condy 's Solution 1701
Congress Water, Aerated 4440
Congreve Matches 2146
Conine orConia 4018
Conium, Fluid Extract of 4578
Conium, Oil of 4752
Conium, Tincture of 4489
Conkkn's Salve 5287
Constipation, Pills for 5454, &c.
Consumption, Inhalation for ..5613
5616
Consumption, Pulmonary, Ci-
gars for 5616
Consumption, Remedy for Night-
sweats in 5787
Consumption, Treatment of 5612
Cooley's Black Ink 2464
Cooley's Corn Plaster 5060
Cooley's Tests for Olive Oil 1500
Cooley's Waterproofing for
Cloth 1555
Copahine-Mege 5366
Copaiba and Tar, Capsules of. .5417
Copaiba, Balsam of, Factitious 5104
Copaiba, Balsam of, Reduced. .5106
Copaiba, Balsam of, Test for . .5107
Copaiba and Pepsine Pills 5457
Copaiba, Capsules of 5416
Copaiba Mixture 5263, 5735
Copaiba Pills 4918
Copaiba Soluble in Water "4795
Copaiba, Solution of, Specific. .4801
Copal Oil- Varnish 2876
Copal Picture Varnish 2907
Copal Spirit Varnish 2905, 2907
Copal, to dissolve, in Spirit 2904
Copper 3240
Copper, Acetate of 4088, 4089
Copper, Alloys of... 3348, 3409, «kc.,
3439, 3440.
Copper, Alloys of, for Dentists. 3437
Copper Amalgam 3543
Copper, Ammonio-sulphate of. 4090
Copper, Arsenite of 2711
Copper, Cement for 2172
Copper, Chloride of 4097
Copper, Cyanide of 3753
Copper Enamel 2400
Copper, Etching Fluid for 2961
Copper, Feather-Shot 3249
Copper, Ferrocyanide of 4098
Copper, Flux for Reducing 3470
Copper, Flux for Welding 3531
Copper, Fulminating. 2135
Copper Moulds for Electrotyp-
ing 367"2, 3680
Copper Moulds, to coat . . 3673
Copper, Nitrate of 4091
Copper, Oxides of. . .4092, 4094, 4095
Copper, Prussiate of 4098
Copper, Sheet, Weight of 6139
Copper, Solder for 3498, 3517
Copper Solution for Electrotyp-
ing 3661
Copper Stains, to remove, from
Marble 516
Copper, Sulphate of 4096
Copper, Sulphite of 4093
Copper, Test for, in Compounds 3241
Copper, Tests for, in Solutions .4099
4375.
Copper, to bronze. . .3772, 3787, 3797
Copper, to clean 3252, 3389
Copper, to coat Figures with . . 3687
Copper, to coat Metals with 3635, &c.
Copper, to coat Cast Iron with. 3635
Copper, to coat Iron with 3756
Copper, to coat, with Brass 3633
3634.
Copper, to coat, with Silver. ..3607
3609.
Copper, to coat, with Tin 3644
Copper, to coat, with Zinc 3651
Copper, to coat Zinc with 3655
Copper, to color 3188, 3313
Copper, to platinize 3658
Copper, to prevent Corrosion
of 3251
Copper, to protect 3765
Copper, to reduce, to Powder. .3247
Copper, to separate, from Al-
loys 3246
Copper, to separate Lead from 3242
Copper, to separate Silver from 3245
Copper, to separate Tin from . . 3244
I Copper, to separate Zinc from. 3243
574: COP— cotr
con — cue
Copper, to weld 3250 Congh, Remedies for .5598, A-c. j
Copper White 3414, &o. Cough Syrup 5465, 5603
Copperas 4146 i Cough Tincture 5234
Convine see AUTiCLEto be copied. Cough, to relieve 5590
Copying Ink 2520 Cough, Whooping, see WHOOP-
CoDTtnff Paper 1926, 1948 ING COUGH.
Conil Irtirfcial 6173 ! Cough with Cold, to cure 5605
Coral Dentifrice 1299 ; Counterfeit Bank of England
Coralline Aniline Dye 2585 | Notes, to detect 6396
Coralline Innoxious 2588 ' Counterfeit Gold 3397
Coralline Solvent for 2587 | Counter-irritants 5082
Cord-Wood Measure 5397 Court Plaster 5058
Cordage, to Kyanize 1681 CowslipPoinade 1263
Cordial, Blackberry 5658 '• Coxe's Hive Syrup 5273
Cordial Diarrhrea 5658 Cracked-Hoof, Ointment for ... 5002
Cordial! Dysentery 5375 | Crackled Sugar 1368
Cordial, Nerve 5215 j Cramps, Cure for 5696
Cordials, Aroma of 812 Cranesbill, Fluid Extract of 4577
Cordials, Filter Bags for 811
Cordials, Finings for 807, &c.
Cordials, Syrups for 1369
Cordials, to clarify 704
Cordials, to make 767
Cordials, to make, by Distilla-
tion 796
Coriander, Extract of 1041
Coriander, Tincture of 1014
Cork to remove a, inside a Bot-
tle. 6227
Corking Bottles, Directions for 930
Corks, Cement for sealing 52238
Corks, to tie down 930
Corkscrew, Substitute for a 6226
Corn, to measure, in the Crib.. 6128
Corn Plaster 5060
Cornelian, Imitation 2427, &c.
Cornices, Stuff for making 2200
Cornish Flux 3462, 3465
Corns 5847
Corns, Caustic for 5079
Corns, Lotion for 5329
Corn Powder 5825
Corns, Remedies for 5849, <tc.
Corns, Soft, to cure 5850
Corns, to prevent £848
Corrosion, to prevent, in Metals 3251
Corrosive Liquids, to filter 3836
Corrosive Sublimate 4139
Corrosive Sublimate, Antidotes
for 5902, 5903
Corrosive Sublimate Antiseptic
Solution 1664
Corvisart's Elixir of Pcpsine. . .4719
Corvisart's Syrup of Pepsine..4G84
Cosmetic Balsam of Honey 1121
Cosmetic Gloves 1176
Cosmetic Solution of Potassa. .4856
Cosmetics for the Hair, Caution
about 1286
Cosmetics for the Skin, &c. 1116, &c.
Cottereau's Odpntalgic Essence 5876
Cottereau's Wine of Cinchonia 4710
Cotton, Aniline Dyes for. .2569, &.c.
Cotton, Difficulty in Dyeing,
with Aniline 2570
Cotton, Dyes for, see COLOII OF
DYE.
Cotton, Remarks on Dyeing. . . 321
Cotton, to bleach 1715, 1717
Cotton, to detect, in Mixed Fab-
rics i295, &c.
Cotton, to remove Mildew from 128
Cotton, to silver 3627
Cotton Cloth, to bleach 125
Cotton Cloth, to prepare, for Dye-
ing 124
Cotton Goods, Starcli for 497
Cotton Goods, to dve 131, &c.
Cotton Goods, to fix the Colors
of 491
Cotton Goods, to remove Stains
from 126, 127
Cotton-Seed Oil, to bleach 1510
Cotton Yarn, to bleach 123
Cotton Tarn, to prepare, for
Dyeing 122
Cough Balsam 5442
Cough Lozenges 5346
Couch Medicine 5233, 5363
Cough Mixture 5262, 5268, 5607, 5610
561V.
Cough Pill 5598
Cough Plaster 5050
Crape, Black, to renovate 462
Crape, China, to wash 465
Crayon Drawings, to fix ld61
Crayons, Charcoal 1971
Crayons, Composition for 1970
Crayons, Lithographic 1958
Cream Cheese 1594
Cream, Cold 1125, &c.
Cream, Glycerine 1129
Cream of Tartar 4197
Cream, Rose Glycerine 1130
Cream, Shaving 602, 604, 607
Cream, Snow 1131
Cream Syrup, Imitation 1430
Cream Syrups for Soda Water. 1425
Cream, to make, rise 6284
Creases in Drawings, &c., to
flatten 1963
Creatine 4013
Creatinine 4013
Crfime deCathay 1128
Creme do Pistache 1139
Creme de Psych6 1137
Cremnitz White .... 2G09
Creosote, Antiseptic Solution of 1C52
1660.
Creosote Ointment 4953, 5404
Creosote, to preserve Meats, &c.,
with.
.1C4C
Creosote, to test 1G47
Cress Vinegar 1772
Crickets, to drive away 1923
Crimson Aniline Dye 2581
Crimson Dye for Cottons 156
Crimson Dye for Silks 246, 251
Crimson Dye for Woolens. .195, 309
Crimson Fire 2075, 2076
Crimson Hair Oil 1233
Crimson Stain for Marble 2039
Crimson Stain for Wood 2859
Crockery, to mend 2157
Crocus, or Indian Red 2718
Crocus Bronzing 3773
Crocus Martis 4154
Croton Bugs, to destroy 1902
Croton Oil Ointment. 5762
Croton Oil, Solution of 5413
Croup, Remedy for 5627
Croup, Symptoms of 5625
Croup, to prevent Return of 5628
Croup, Treatment of 5626
Crown Glass 2343
Crucibles, Lute for 2268
Crude Coal Oil, see PETROLEUM.
Crust in Kettles, to prevent . . .6382
Crysotype Paper 3175
Crystal Glass 2347, 2352
Crystal Spirit Varnish 2910
Crystal, to silver 3631
Crystalline Window Glass 2365
Crystallization 9
Crystallized Pomade 1274
Cuba Honey 1573
Cubebs, Essential Oil of 1465
Cubebs, Fluid Extract of 4579
Cubebs, Tincture of 4551
Cubic Feet reduced to Inches .5999
Cubic or Solid Measure 5996
Cubic Measure in Metres 5998
Cucumber Ointment 5000
Cucumber Plants, to kill Thrips
on 1858
Cucumber Seeds, to clean 1864
Cucumber Seeds, to prove 1863
Cucumbers, Pickled 1793
C0C — DEC
Cucumbers, to keep fresh 1872
C ullet 2351
Culm .' 3314
Cumming's Paregoric 4528
Cupellation, Assay by 3191, 3206
Cuprum Aluminatum 5296
Cura9oa 771, 777, 799
Curapoa, Coloring for 800
Curapoa d'Hollande 776
Curd Cement 2160
Curd, to collect, for Cheese 1593
Cures, see DISEASE to be cured.
Curing, see AHTICLE to be cured.
Curious Essence 947
Curling Liquids for the Hair. . 1191
Currant Wine 728, 734
Currant, Cherry and Raspberry
Wine 728
Currant and Gooseberry Wine 728
Curry Powder, Indian 1760
Curry Vinegar 1778
Curtains, Damask, to clean 450
Cut Flowers, to preserve 1835
Cutaneous Affections, to allay
Irritation in 5491
Cutlery, Caution in Grinding.. 6253
Cutlery, to grind 6252
Cuts, Artificial Skin for 5501
Cuts, Treatment of 5500
Cuts, Waterproof Covering for 5502
Cuttings of Plants, to insert . . .1832
Cuttings of Plants, to manage . 1831
Cyamelide 3952
Cyanates 3952
Cyanatc of Ammonia 4323
Cyanic Acid 3952
Cyanic Acid, to obtain 3953
Cyanides, Metallic 3947
Cyanide of Brass Solution 3759, 3768
Cyanide of Copper 3753
Cyanide of Copper, Solution of. 3754
3755
Cyanide of Gold > 3727
Cyanide of Potassium 4202
Cyanide of Potassium, Caution
against 1160
Cyanide of Potassium, Lotion
of 1158
Cyanide of Potassium, Test for
Free, in Solutions 3703
Cyanide of Potassium, Ulcers
caused bv, to cure 5918
Cyanide ofSilver 3697
Cyanide of Silver, to dissolve .. 3699
Cyanide of Silver and Potas-
sium 3698
Cyanide of Zinc 3753, 4115
Cyanide of Zinc, Solution of. ..3754
Cyanotype Paper 3174
Cyanurcts, see CYANIDES.
Cylinders, Cubical Contents of 6001
Cymbals 3446
Da Costa's Constipation Pills. .5455
Daffy's Elixir 5217
Dahlia Cuttings, to manage. . .1831
Dahlia Roots, to preserve 1888
Dolby's Carminative 5172
Dale's Process for Oxalic Acid 3902
Damask Curtains, to clean 450
Dandelion Alterative 5164
Dandelion, Infusion of 5701
Dandelion Pills 5700
Dandelions, to kill 1867
Dark Green Dye for Cottsns. . . 163
Dauyergn6's Tar Pomade 1281
Davidson's mode of deodoriz-
ing Putrid Whale Oil 1488
Davis' Neutralizing Cordial . . .5424
Davis' Pain Killer 5410
Dawson's Patent Soap 545
Day & Martin's Blacking 3101
Day, to find the Length of the. .6153
Deafness, Remedies for ..5809, 5814
Debility, Treatment of 5780
Decalcomine Pictures, to ap-
ply ,..6195
Decantation 10
Decanters, to clean 430
Decarbonization 3843
Decayed Wine, to remedy 752
Decimal Approximations for
Calculations 6119
DEC — DIS
DIS — DRI
DRI — EAR
575
Decimal Equivalents of Feet,
Inches, &c 5979, 5985
Decimal "Weights, <fcc., see MET-
KICAL WEIGHTS.
Decoction, Rheumatic 5540
Decoctions, to prepare 34
Decoloration 3844
Decoloring, sec AUTICLK to be
decolored.
Decomposing Cell for Electro-
typing 3664
Decomposition in "Wines, Rem-
edy for 756
Decomposition in "Wines, Test
for 755
Defecation 3845
Deflagration 11
Degrees of Sugar-Boiling for
Candies 1368
Delamotte's Golden Drops 5210
De la Rue's Patent Parchment 1965
Delioux's Wine for Rheuma-
tism, &c 5408
Deliquescence 22, 3842
Dennis' Antispasmodic Tinc-
ture 5270
Density of Syrups, to determine
the 1363
Dentifrices i288, &.C., 5469
Dentists' Alloys 3435, &c.
Dentists' Amalgams 3549, &c.
Deodorizing, see ARTICLE to be
deodorized.
Depilatories 1219, &c.
Depilatories, Caution in Apply-
ing 1225
Depilatories, to apply 1223, 1224
Derbyshire Spar, Cement for . .2218
Derbyshire's Sea-Sickness Pre-
ventive 5235
De Rheims' Healing Paper 5059
Deschamp's Dentifrice 1296
Desehamp's Fuligokali Oint-
ment 5380
Deschamp's Pastils for the
Breath 5405
Deschamp's Plaster 5045
Desiccation 12, 3849
De Svlvestre's Dextrino Var-
nish 2927
Detergents 5504
Detersive Dentifrice 1289
Devil Plaster 5278
Dewberry, Tincture of 4497
De wee's Carminative 5250
De wee's Tincture of Guaiacum5441
Dextrine 4345
Dextrine, to purify 2925
Dextrine Varnish 2927
Distillation 13
Diachylon Plaster 5043
Diamond Paste 21552, 2420, &c.
Diamond Tooth Cement 5879
Diamond Weights 5943
Diamonds, Imitation 2352
Diamonds, Imitation, to make,
brilliant 2459
Diamonds, Imitation Yellow ..2436
Diamonds, Parisian 2444
Diamonds, to test 4392
Diaphoretics 5134
Diarrhoea, Bilious, Cure for 5660
Diarrhoea in Infants 5661
Diarrhoea, Remedies for . .5653, <fec.
Diarrhea, Treatment of 5652
Dick's Dyspepsia Cure 5681
Dick's Dyspepsia Pills 5682
Diekson's Cochineal Coloring. .2624
Dieterich's Mode of Bleaching
Oils 1508
Digestion 40
Digestion, Artificial 5680
Digestive Candy 5260
Digitalis, Fluid Extract of. ... .4574
Digitalis, Tincture of 4490
Dilute Alcohol, Officinal 1437
Dinneford's Fluid Magnesia. . .4434
Dinner Pills 5181
Dip Candles, to make 634
Diphtheria, Remedies for 5637, &c.
Diphtheria, Treatment of 5636
Diplomas, Wax for 2327
Disease, Cure of, by Abstinence 5894 \
Disinfectants 1692, &c.
Disinfectants for Sick Cham-
bers 1695
Disinfectants for Slaughter-
Houses 1694
Disinfectants for Stables 1694
Disinfecting Lotion 4852
Displacement, Tinctures by 41
Distillation of Cordials 796
Distillation of Essential Oils . . . 1465
Distillation of New England
Rum 931, &c.
Distillation of Perfumed Wa-
ters 1073
Distillation of Whiskey 931, &c,
Distillation with or without a
Heater 937
Distilled Aromatic Spirits 941
Distilled Perfumed Waters .... 1070
Distilled Perfumed Waters, Di-
rections for 1073
Distilled Perfumed Waters,
Practical Suggestions for 1076
Distilled Perfumed Waters,
Soubeiran's Apparatus for. . .1077
Distilled Perfumed Waters, to
prevent, from Souring 1075
Distilled Perfumed Waters, to
remove the Burnt Smell from 1074
Distilled Vinegar 1746
Distilled Water 4768
Ditchett's Remedy for Piles. . .5255
Diuretics 5146, <fcc.
Diuretic Drops 5147, 531 1
Diuretic Infusion 5148
Diuretic Pills 4910, 5149
Docks, to kill 1867
Doebereiner's Self-igniting
Lamp 6389
Doers, to banish Fleas from 1913
Dogs, White, to wash 6218
Dogwood, Tincture of. 4553
Dolomite 4241
Domestic Brandy, Imitation. . . 678
Domestic Soap Receipts... 548, <kc.
Donovan's Mixture of Cyanide
of Potassium 5268
Donovan's Solution of Arsenic
and Mercury 4777
Door-Plates, to clean 512
Doors, to prevent, from Creak-
ing C215
Doppel Kummel 7G9. 6292
Doses, Strength of, for Different
Ages 5965
Doualt Wieland's Paste for
Gems 2425
Dove-Colored Family Dyo 331
Dover's Powder 5176
Dover's Powder, Camphorated 5423
Dover's Rheumatic Powder . . .5531
Dover's Tincture 4543
Dowler's Tape- Worm Remedy. 5650
Drab Dye for Cottons 177, &c.
Drab Dye for Cotton, Silk and
Wool 293
Drab Dye for Silks 272, 310
Drab Dye for Woolens. 213, 215, 230
Drain, to, Level Land 1891
Draught, Black 5212
Drawing-Crayons, Composition
for 1970
Drawing-Ink 2531
Drawing-Paper, Sizes of 6131
Drawing-Paper, to take out
Creases in 1963
Drawings, Chalk, to fix 1960
Drawings, Crayon, to fix 19G1
Drawings, Pencil, to fix 1959
Drawings, Pencil, &c., to pro-
tect 6363
Drawings, to copy 3159
Drawings, to varnish 2965
Drawings, Varnish for 2924
Drayton's Method of Silvering
on Glass 3616
Dresses, Black, to remove Stains
from 470
Dresses, Colored, to wash 485
Dresses, Linen, &c., to wash . .6412
Dresses, to clean 460
Drills, Lubricator for ... .2366, 6273
Drills, to temper 3286
Drinking to Excess, Tonic after 5818
Drops, Carminative 5689
Drops, Diuretic 5147, 5311
Drops, Dutch 5340
Drops, French, for Scouring. . . 354
Drops, Golden 5210
Drops, Haerlem 5342
Drops, Hot 5179
Drops, Hot, for Beer 891
Drops, Jesuits' 5091, 5338
Drops, Pectoral 5193
Drops, Prince Rupert's 2373
Drops, Red 5376, 5411 i
Drops, Sweating 5142
Dropsy, Remedy for 5G97, 5754
Drowned Persons, apparently,
to restore 5893
Druggists' Show Colors. . .2G48, &c.
Druggists' Show Colors, to keep
from freezing 2672
Drummond Light, the 6388
Drunkenness, Habitual, to cure 5817
Dry, Chemically, to 3842
Dry Measure 5970
Dry Measure compared with
Imperial 5972 i
Dry Measure compared with
Metrical 5971 1
Dry Measure, Imperial 6037
Dry Measure, Imperial, com-
pared with Litres . . ' 60401
Dry Measure, Imperial, com-
pared with TJ. States 60381
Drv Rot, to preserve Timber
from 1G79
Dry Salting of Meat 1602
Dryers for Paints 2735, <fec.
Drying, Chemical .3842
Drying, Loss of Substances in . 6149
Drying Oils 2726, &c.
Dubbing for Leather 3078
Duchemin's Enamel 2402
Ductilitv of Metals 3355
Dullo's Platinized Glass 3656
Dumoulin's Liquid Glue 2285
Dupasquier's Iodide of Iron
Water 4478
Dupuytren's Pills 5258
Dupuytren's Pomade 1282
Durand's Syrup of Phosphate of
Lime 4G36
Durockereau's Cologne Water 980
Dutch Areometers 6160, 6163
Dutch Drops 5342
Dutch Metal 3348
Dutch Metal, to gild with 3576
Dutch Weights and Measures. 6090
Dyes, see ARTICLE to bo dyed
Dyes, Aniline- ..332, &.c., 2552, <fcc.
Dyes, Aniline, Directions for
using 2563
Dyes, Aniline, Mordants for. . .2567
Dyes, Aniline, Test for Sugar
in 2561
Dyes, Aniline, to distinguish ..2564
Dyes, Aniline, to remove 2565
Dyes, Aniline, to remove Sugar
from 2562
Dye-Bath 93
Dye -Woods 94
Dye -Woods, Properties of 214
Dyes, Chrome, for Cottons. 183, &c.
Dyes, Chrome, for Woolens 221, <fcc.
Dyes for the Hair. . . 1198, &c., 6401
Dyeing, Art of 93
Dyeing, see COLOR OF DYE.
Dyeing, Family Receipts for 302, &c.
Dyeing, to make Solutions for. . 121
Dyeing Veneers, Directions for 2837
Dyeing Wood, Directions for. .2824
Dyers' Aquafortis 3880
Dysentery Cordial, Patent 5375
Dysentery, Remedies for. .5676, &c.
Dysentery, Treatment of 5675
Dyspepsia, Remedies for. .5680, &c.
Dyspepsia, Treatment of 5679
Eagle-Marino Foil 2457
Eagle-Marine, Imitation 2438
Ear, Inflammation of the, Remedy
for 5813
Ear, to destroy Insects in the. .5816
Earache, Cure for 5811, <fcc.
576 EAR — ELK
Earache, Treatment of 5810
Earth, &c., Weight of 6134
Earthenware, to clean 434
East-India Pomade 1272
East-Indian Money 6112
Easton's Syrup of Phosphate of
Iron, &o 4629
Eau Botot 1324
Eau d'Ambre Royalo 99
Eau d' Ambrette 995
Eau de Beaut6 1146
Eau de Bouquet 992
Eau de Cologne 976, &c.
Ean de Cologne, Ammoniated. 1096
Eau de Cologne, Concentrated 950
Eau de Heliotrope 1003
Eau de Javelle 4787, 6414
Eau de Labarraque 4788
Eau de Lavande 989
Eau de Lavande,Ammoniacalel097
Eau de Lavande de Millefleurs 1000
Eau de Marechale 993
EaudeMelisse 988
Eaude Miel 1006
Eau des Cannes 988
Eau Forte, for Copper-Engrav-
ing 2962
Eau Magndsienne 4434
Eau Medicinale d'Husson 5208
Eau Royale 994
Ebony Stain for Wood 2844
Eclectic Emetic Powder 5169
Economical Perfumes 1026
Edge-Tools, see TOOLS.
Edulcoration 3847
Effervescing Lemonade 906
Efflorescence 3842
Eger Water, Aerated 4441
EggNogg 923
Egg Powder 1817
Eggs, to distinguish Good 1631
Eggs, to preserve 1629
Egyptiacum Salva 5004
Egyptain Marbles for Books. . .3110
Egy plain Ointment 5005
Ehrle's Styptic Cotton 5560
Eisenmann a Opiated Wine of
Colchicum 5389
Elastic Cement 6391
Elastic Glue 2306
Elastic Moulding 3G85
Elder Wine 728
Elder-Flower Vinegar 1771
Elder-Flower Water, to distill. 1072
1073
Elder-Flowers, Oil of 4752
Elecampane, Fluid Extract of. 4579
Electric Tissue 6320
Electrical Machines, Amalgam
for 3539
Electrical Machines, Cement
for 2170
Electricity, to improve Wines
by 726, 6295
Electro-gilding 3724, &c.
Electro-gilding, Conditions re-
quired in 3732
Electro-gilding on Paper, Silk,
and Fibrous Materials 3738
Electro-gilding, Practical Sug-
gestions for 3737
Electro-gilding, Process of 3730
Electro-gilding, Solutions for . .3728
3733.
Electro-gilding, to improve the
Color in 3735
Electro-gilding, to regulate the
Color in 3734
Electro-gilding with Red Gold. 3736
Electro-plating 3696, &c.
Electro-plating on Paper, Silk,
and Fibrous Materials 3738
Electro-plating, Solutions for. .3697
Electro-plating, to improve the
Deposit in 3710
Electro-plating, to insure Suc-
cess in 3711
Electro-plating, to prepare Arti-
cles for 3705
Electro-plating, to preserve a
Dead Surface in 3708
Electro-plating, to remove the
White Surface after 3709
ELE — ENA
Electro-plating with Aluminnm3749
Electro-plating with Brass 3752
3769.
Electro-plating with Cobalt 3766
Electro-plating with German
Silver 3770
Electro-plating with Nickel . . .3762
3~«3.
Electro-plating with Palladium 3761
Electro-plating with Platinum. 3760
Electro-plating with Silicium..3767
Electro-plating with Tin 3750
Electro-plating with various Met-
als 3748, <fec.
Electro-plating with Zinc 3757
Electrotyping 3660, &c.
Electrotyping on Large Ob-
iects 3692
Electrotyping on Paper, Silk,
and Fibrous Materials 3738
Electrotyping on Wood 3695
Electrotyping, Single Cell Pro-
cess for 3669
Electrotyping, to prepare Moulds
for 3672, &c.
Electrotyping with a Battery. .3671
Electuaries 5152, &c.
Electuaries, Tooth 1305, &c.
Electuary, Aperient 5153
Electuary, Lenitive 5354
Elements, Table of, and their
Chemical Equivalents 6150
Elixirs 4697, &c.
Elixir, Anti-catarrh 5447
Elixir, Aperient 5446
Elixir, Daffy's 5217
Elixir de Gams 4717
Elixir of Bismuth 5420
Elixir of Bromide of Ammoni-
um 5374
Elixir of Bromide of Potassium5449
Elixir of Bromide of Sodium . . . 5215
Elixir of Calisaya 4698, 4701
Elixir of Calisaya, Ferrophospho-
rated 4699, 4700
Elixir of Chloroform 4730
Elixir of Gentian, Ferrophospho-
rated 4725
Elixir of Opium 4735
Elixir of Pepsine 4718, <fcc., 4724
Elixir of Peruvian Bark and
Iron 4702
Elixir of Taraxacum 4729, 4736
Elixir of Valerianate of Ammo-
nia 4728, 4732, &c.
Elixir of Vitriol 4731, 4740
Elixir of Wild Cherry, Ferra-
ted 4716
Elixir, Pectoral 5445
Elixir, Squire's 5228
Elixir, Stomachic 5118, &o.
Elixir, Tonic 5407
Elixir, Traumatic 5419
Elixir V6g6tal de la Grande
Chartreuse 806, 6291
Elkington's Gilding Liquid 3588
Elkington's Patent Gilding 3587
Ellerman's Disinfecting Fluid .. 1700
Ellis'e Essence of Beef. 4618
Eisner's Zinc Green 2691
Elutriation 14
Embalming 1666
Embrocations, see LINIMENTS.
Embroidery, to prepare New
Linen for 6229
Emerald Green 2712
Emerald, Imitation. 2360, 2439, 2446
Emery Paper or Cloth 1935
Emery, to cement, to Wood . . . 6269
Emery Wheel for Grinding
Tools 6268
Emery Wheels, Cement for. ..2246
Emetics 5167, &c.
Emetic Mixture 5168
Emetic Powder, Eclectic 5169
Emetic, Simple 5170
Ems Water, Aerated 4442
Emulsions 43
Emulsion of Almonds 1140, 1155
Emulsion of Cod-Liver Oil 5437
Emulsion of Pumpkin-seeds ...5432
Enamel, Photographing on 3164
Enamel Powder for the Skin.. 1115
ENA — ESS
Enameled Wood, to Polish ...3015;
Enameling on Wood 3010, &c. '
Enameling, Rubber for 3013 1
Enamels 2378, <fcc.
Enfleuragc, Oils perfumed by.. 1229
Enfleurage, Pomade perfumed
by 1263
Engelhardt's Method of Bleach
ing Oils 1509
Engestroom Tutania 3451
Engineers' Cement 2225
English Weights and Measures C031
Engraving on Glass 2376
Engraving on Glass, Varnish
for 2959
Engravings Sizing for 2647
Engravings
Engravings
Engravings
Engravings
to bleach 6399
to clean, 1972, &c., 6400
to print, on Plaster 1975
to remove Water
Stains from 6398
Engravings, to remove Yellow
Stains from 413
Engravings, to take out Creases
in 1963
Engravings, to transfer on
Glass 6335
Engravings, to transfer on
Paper 1974
Engravings, to transfer on
Wood or Stone 6336
Engravings, to unroll and flat-
ten 6397
Epicurean Sauce 1755
Epsom Salts 4241
Epsom Salts, to disguise the
Taste of 5891
Epsom Salts, to distinguish Ox-
alic Acid from 3904
Equivalents, Chemical, of the
Elements 6150, 6151
Equivalents of Acids 81
Equivalents of Alkalies 80
Eraser, Ink t . . . 6393
Erasmus Wilson's Hair- Wash. 11 82
Ergot, Fluid Extract of 4578
Ergot, Tincture of 4517
Erica-Cuttings, to manage 1831
Erysipelas, Lotion for 5427
Eschalot Vinegar 1775
Eschalot Wine 1783
Esprits 998
Esprit d' Ambrette 995
Esprit de Bergamot 999
Esprit de Bouquet 1002
Esprit de Jasmin Odorant 1004
Esprit de Rose 1001
Essences 941 , &c.
Essence, Bitter 4615
Essence, Curious 947
Essence for Headache 5229
Essence for Scenting Pomades 1261
Essence for Toothache 5874, &c.
Essence of Almonds 943
Essence of Allspice 952
Essence of Ambergris. 959, 963, 964
Essence of Ambrette 968
Essence of Apple, Artificial . . . 1054
4303
Essence of Apricot, Artificial. . 1047
Essence of Beef 4616, 4618
Essence of Bergamot. 969
Essence of Bitter Almonds 943
Essence of Black-Cherry, Arti-
ficial 1050
Essence of Camphor 4611
Essence of Cassia 970
Essence of Chamomile 4613
Essence of Cherry, Artificial ..1049
Essence of Cinnamon 971
Essence of Civet 972
Essence of Cognac 675
Essence of Cologne 950
Essence of Coltsfoot 4612
Essence of Fleurs d'Orange 961
Essence of Frangipanni 948
Essence of Ginger 4619
Essence of Gooseberry, Artifi-
cial 1056
Essence of Grape, Artificial.. .1055
Essence of Guaiacum 4623
Essence of Lavender 973
Essence of Lemon 955
ESS — KSS
ESS — EXT .
EXT — FEN
577
Essence of Lemon, Artificial ..10."J1
Essence of Life 5337
Essence of Melon, Artificial... 1059
Essence of Mirbano 4322
Essence of Musk 050, &.c.
Essence of Musk-Seed 968
Essence cf Myrtle, Artificial ..1008
Essence of Neroli 961
Essence of Orange 950
Essence of Orange, Artificial.. 1053
Essence of Orange-Blossoms . . . 901
Essence of Orange-Flowers 951
Essence of Orange-peel 951
Essence of Orris, Artificial 949
Essence of Patchouli 9(iO, &c.
Essence of Peach, Artificial. . .1046
Essence of Peach Kernels 943
Essence of Pear, Artificial 1052, 4302
Essence of Peppermint 4G10
Essence of Pimento 952
Essence of Pine-apple 953
Essence of Pine-apple, Artifi-
cial 1060, 4293
Essence of Pouchapat 966
Essence of Quince, Artificial. .4296
Essence of Quinine 4624
Essence of Raspberry, Artifi-
cial 1057
Essence of Rennet 1596
Essence of Kondeletia 946, 1062
Essence of Roses 944, &c.
Essence of Soap 604
Essence of Soup Herbs 1763
Essence of Spearmint 4614
Essence of Spices 1764
Essence of Spruce 888
Essence of Storax or Styrax... 962
Essence of Strawberry, Artifi-
cial 1058
Essence of Tuberose 954
Essence of Vanilla 965
Essence of Violets, Artificial.. 949
Essence, Plum 1048
Essence Royale 960
Essences, Medicinal 4(i08, &c.
Essences, Medicinal, to color. .4609
Essences of Flowers 942, 974
Essences, Perfumed 940
Essential Oils 1404, &c.
Essential Oil of Aloes 1465
Essential Oil of Anise 1465
Essential Oil of Apple 1409, 4303
Essential Oil of Bark 46
Essential Oil of Bergamot Pear 4302
Essential Oil of Bitter Almondsl465
Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds,
Factitious 4322
Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds,
Non-poisonous 1512
Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds,
Test for 1479
Essential Oil of Calamus 1405
Essential Oil of Caraway 1465
Essential Oil of Cinnamon . . . .1465
Essential Oil of Cinnamon, Test
for 1481
Essential Oil of Cloves 1465
Essential Oil of Cloves, Test
for 14P5
Essential Oil of Fennel 1465
Essential Oil of Horsemint . . . .1465
Essential Oil of Jargonelle Peor,
Factitious 1470, 4302
Essential Oil of Juniper 1465
Essential Oil of Lavender 1465
Essential Oil of Lavender, Test
for.
.1482
Essential Oil of Lemon 1465
Essential Oil of Lemon, to keep!473
Essential Oil of Lemon, to re-
store 1472
Essential Oil of Mustard 1465
Essential Oil of Origanum 1465
Essential Oil of Pear, Facti-
tious 1470, 4302
Essential Oil of Pennyroval . . .1465
Essential Oil of Peppermint . . . 1465
Essential Oil of Pimento 1465
Essential Oil of Quince, Facti-
tious 1471, 4296
Essential Oilof Rhodium-Woodl465
Essential Oil of Sandal- Wood. . 1465
Essential Oil of Savine 1465
Essential Oil of Spearmint 1465
Essential Oil of yalerian 1465
Essential Oils, Millou's Method
for 1467
Essential Oils, Mixed 1243
Essential Oils, to detect Alcohol
in 1476
Essential Oils, to detect Mixtures
of 1477
Essential Oils, to detect Oil or
Resin in 1475
Essential Oils, to distill 1466
Essential Oils, to extract, from
"Wood. <fcc 46
Essential Oils, to obtain 1465
Essential Oils, to perfume Oils 1227
Essential Oils, to purify 1474
Essential Salt of Lemons 378
Etching Fluid for Copper 2961
Etching Fluid for Ivory 2002
Etching Fluid for Steel 2963
Etching on Glass 2374
Etching on Ivory 2004
Etching on Shells 0186
Etching Varnishes 2960
Etching Varnish for Glass 2959
Etching Varnish for Ivory 2003
Ether 4279, <fec.
Ether, Acetic 4291, &c.
Ether, Benzoic 4294
Ether, Butyric 4293
Ether, Cautions about 4283
Ether, Chloric 4297
Ether, Compound Spirit of 4749
Ether, Formic 4295
Ether Glue 6385
Ether, Hydrochloric 4290
Ether, Nitric 4287
Ether, Nitrous 4288
Ether, CBnanthic 4296
Ether, Ozone 4284
Ether, Pelargonic 3471, 4296
Ether, Percentage of, in Alco-
holic Mixtures 4286
Ether, Phosphorated 4748
Ether, Stronger, Officinal 4281
Ether, Sulphuric 4279, &c.
Ether, Syrup of 4653
Ether, Tests for 4285
Ether, to purify 4282
Ethereal Extracts, to prepare. . 44
Ethereal Solution of Gold 3585
Ethine 4048
Ethiops of Antimony 4126
Ethyl 4298
Ethyl, Acetate of 4299
Ethyl Benzine 6409
Ethyl, Benzoate of 4294
Ethyl, Butyrate of 4293
Ethyl, Chloride of 4290
Ethyl, Formiate of 4295
Ethyl, (Enanthylate of 4296
Ethyl, Oxide of 4279
Ethyl, V&lerianate of 4300
Evans' Tooth Amalgam 3549
Evaporating Lotions 4843
Evaporation 15, 44
Evaporation. Spontaneous 3842
Everton Taffee 6283
Excellent Dentifrice 1297
Exchequer Ink 2469
Expansion Metal 3454
Expectorants 5595
Explosives 2130, &c.
Explosive Compound, New 2137
Expression,Vegetable Juices by 45
Extermination of Vermin 1892
Extract of Almonds 1033
Extract of Arnica 4751
Extract of Bitter Almonds 1033
Extract of Bitter Almonds, Non-
poisonous 1034
Extract of Black Cohosh 4750
Extract of Black Pepper 1039
Extract of Capsicum 1040
Extract of Celery 1043
Extract of Cinnamon 1036
Extract of Coriander 1041
Extract of Ginger 1038
Extract of Indigo 99
Extract of Lead 4775
Essential Oil of Sassafras 1465 | Extract of Lemon 1031
Extract of Milk 5470
Extract of Nutmegs 1037
Extract of Orange 1033
Extract of Patchouli 1069
Extract of Roses 1035
Extract of Soup-Herbs 1044
Extract of Storax or Styrax 902
Extract of Vanilla 1049
Extracts, Flavoring 1030
Extracts, Fluid, see FLUID Ex-
TUACTS.
Extracts, to keep, from Mould-
ing 44
Extracts, to prepare 44, 1061
Extraits 1061, &o.
Extrait de Frangipanni 948
Extrait de Millefleurs 1063
Extrait do Patchouli 1069
Extrait de Rondeletia 946, 1062
Eye, Black, Treatment of. 5792, &c.
Eye, to allay Irritation in the. .5806
Eye, to expel Insects from the. 5795
Eye, to extract Steel from the. 5796
Eye, to remove Dirt from the. .5794
Eye, to remove Zinc or Iron
from the 5805
Eye Waters 5797, &.C.
Face, to mould the, in Wax . . .3688
Face-joints, Cement for 2169
Factitious, see ARTICLE imitated.
Fahrenheit, Centigrade and
Reaumur compared 99
Fahrenheit's Thermometer ... 85
Fahrenheit, to reduce Centi-
grade to 80
Fahrenheit, to reduce Reaumur
to 88
Fahrenheit, to reduce, to Centi-
grade 87
Fahrenheit, to reduce, to Reau-
mur 89
Fainting Fits, Treatment of. . . 5694
Talk's Antacid Tincture 5444
Family Salve 4935
Family Soap, to make . 549, &c, 6307
Fancy Boxes, to Stain 2858
Farina's Eau dc Cologne. . .982, 985
Fat, Rancid, to restore . . . 1489, <fec.
Fat, to color, for Pomades 1257
Fat, to deodorize, for Soap 530
Fat, to extract, from Bones 1525
Fat, to grain 532
Fat, to keep from getting Ran-
cid 531, 535, 1491, &c.
Fat, to perfume 1255
Fat, to preserve 536, 1516, 6309
Fat, to purify 1254, 1517
Faucets, Wooden, to keep from
Cracking 6305
Fawn Dyes for Cottons 146, 150, &c.
Fawn Dve for Silks 310
Feather Brushes, to make 62C3
Feather Shot Copper 3249
Feathered Sugar 1368
Feathered Tin 107, 3319
Feathers, Goose, to cleanse 6324
Feathers, Ostrich, to clean 655
Feathers, Solutions for preserv-
ing 1663
Feathers, to bleach 1727
Feathers, to cleanse, from Ani-
malFat 659
Feathers, to curl 658
Feathers, to dye 324, &c. '
Febrifuge Spirit 5194
Febrifuge Tincture 5195
Febrifuge Wine 5141
Feet, BUstered, Remedy for . . .5830
Feet, Cold, Remedy for 5831
Feet, Frosted, Remedy for 5843
Feet, Lineal, compared with
Metres 5978 ;
Feet, to absorb Perspiration in
the 5846
Feet, to correct Offensive Smell
in the 5845
Felon 5548
Felon, Bone, to cure 5551
Felon, Treatment of 5549, &c.
Felting, French Waterproof. . . 1556
Females, Pills for . . .5382, 5719, &.c.
Fences, Whitewash for 2803
578 FEN— FIE
Fennel, Essential Oil of 1465
Fennel Water 4757
Fennel Water, to distill.. 1071, 1073
Fenugreek-Seeds, Oil of 4752
Fermentation 16, 861
Fermentation, Acetous 1
Fermentation, Acetous, in Beer 867
Fermentation, Alcoholic or Vin-
Fermentation in Brewing 861
Fermentation, Mucilaginous or
Viscous 16
Fermentation of Beer, Hints on 866
Fermentation, Putrid 16
Fermentation, Saccharine 16
Fermentation, to arrest 766
Fermentation, to induce 765
Fermentation, to prevent, in
Cider 835,852
Fermented Cider 837, &c,
Fermenting, to prevent Syrup
from 1366
Ferns, to copy 6174
Ferrated Elixir of Wild-Cherry 4716
Ferrated Wine of Wild-Cherry. 4715
Ferridcyanides 3954
FerrMcyanide of Iron 4169
Ferridcyanide of Potassium . . .4200
Ferrochyazic Acid 3956
Ferrocyanides 3956
Ferrocyanide of Copper 4098
Ferroeyanide of Iron 4167
Ferrocyanide of Potassium 1 . . .4201
Ferrophosphorated Elixir of Cal-
isaya 4699, 4700
Ferrophosphorated Elixir of
Gentain 4725
Fertilizers for the Soil 1820, &c.
Fertilizing Powder 1829
Festers, Poultice for 5032
Fever and Ague, Remedies for 5579
&c., 6420.
Fever Drink 4762, 5136
Fever, Houseleek for 5144
Fever, Intermittent, Pills for.. 4904
4908.
Fever, Intermittent, Remedies
for 5756, G420
Fovcr Mixture 5137, 5757
Fovcr Powder 5145
Fovcr, Scarlet, Preventive of. .5753
Fovcr, Scarlet, Remedy for 5755
Fever, Scarlet, Treatment of.. 5750
Fever Tincture 5371
Fever, Typhoid, Remedy for.. 5747
Fig Soap C01
FigWino 729
File, to, a Flat Surface C255
Files, Old, to temper 3289
Files, to clean C258
Files, to sharpen, with Acids.. 6256
Filled Soap 538
Filter Bags for Cordials 811
Filter for Bitters 830
Filter for Brandy 709
Filter for Shellac 2934
Filter for Strong Acids cr Alka-
lies 18
Filter for Syrups 1358
Filter for Wines 714
Filter, Gun-Cotton 18
Filter, Self-feeding 17, 3840
Filter, to, Corrosive Liquids. . .3836
Filter, to, Precipitates 3837
Filter, to, Rapidly 3838
Filter, to, Vegetable Infusions 3835
Filter, to, Vegetable Juices . . .3834
Filtcrin g Paper, Qualities of .. 17
Filtering Powders 3839
Filters for Various Purposes. . . 17
Filtration 17
Finger-nails, Treatment of 5823
Finger-rings, Tight, to remove 6213
Fining for Ale or Beer 871
Fining for Cordials 807, &c.
FiningforGin 706
Fining for Spirits 703
Fining for Wines 716
Firo Annihilator 6379
Fire-Brick, to remove Clinker
from 6241
Fire-Dump 4048
Fire-Eating Ghosts 2101
FIR — FLO
Fire-Gilding 3594
Fire, Greek 2129
Fire in a Chimney, to put out 6209
Fire Kindlers, to make. . .6205, 6402
Fire Lute 2269
Fireproof Canvas 1563
Fireproof Paint 2772
Fireproof Paper 1941
Fireproof, to render various Ar-
ticles 1564
Fireproof Whitewash 2801
Fires, Colored 2065, <fec.
Fires, to extinguish 6379
Firework Cases, to make 2053
Firework Mixture, Japanese . .2127
Fireworks 2048, &c.
Fish, Gold, to keep 6189
Fish Oil, to detect 1498
Fish, to preserve, with Sugar . . 1615
Fits, Fainting 5694
Fits, Treatment of 5695
Fixed Oils 1487, &c.
Fixed Oils, Lubricating, to re-
fine 1495
Fixed Oils, Rancid, to restore . 1489
Fixed Oils, Tests for 1496, &c.
Fixed Oils, to bleach 1504, &c.
Fixed Oils, to deodorize 1488
Fixed Oils, to prevent Rancid-
ity in 1491
Fixed Oils, to purify 1511
Fixed Oils, to purify, for Lamps 1494
Flannel, Old, to bleach 507, 6327
Flannels, to wash and shrink. . 493
Flat-Irons, to clean 6228
Flatness in Beer, to remedy 878
Flatting for House-painting . . .2753
Flatulency, see CARMINATIVES.
Flavor of Almonds. 943
Flavoring Extracts 1030
Flavoring for Beer 864
Flavorings for Liquids, 664, &c.,6294
Flaxen Hair-Dye ". 1206
Flaxseed Tea 5589
Fleas, to banish 1913
Fleas, to catch 1915
Fleas, to exterminate 1914
Flemming's Solution of Strych-
nia 5355
Flesh-color Stain for Marble. .2040
Flesh-colored Collodion 11C8
Fleurs d' Orange, Essence 961
Fleurs d' Orange, Pastilles aux. 134 2
Flexible Oil -Varnishes 2800
Flexible Spirit -Varnish. . .2948, &c.
Flies, Poison for 1912
Flies, to drive from Stables 1923
Flies, to keep, from Horses 1924
Flies, to kill 1911
Flint Glass 2352
Floating Soap 568
Floors, Concrete for 2206
Floors, to clean 426
Floors, to extract Oil Stains
from 394
Floors, Wax for Polishing 1591
Florida Water 1011
Florists' Compost 1822
Flour, how to judge 4379
Flour, Musty, to improve 1644
Flour, to detect Mineral Substan-
ces in 4378
Flowers, Argentine 4127
Flower-Garden, Receipts for
the 1819, &c.
Flower-Pots, to expel Worms
from ]853
Flowers, Cut, tokcepFresh,1835&c.
Flowers, Cut, to preserve. 1836, 6175
Flowers, Essences of 942, 974
Flowers, Faded, to restore 1839
Flowers, Hydrangea, to make
Blue 1842
Flowers of Antimony 4127
Flowers of Benzoin or Benja-
min 3942
Flowers of Sulphur 4354
Flowers of Zinc 4116
Flowers, to change the Color
of. 1833,1834
Flowers, to gild, on Silver-plate 3694
Flowers, to hasten the Bloom-
ing of 1825
FLO — FLU
Flowers, to preserve, for Per-
fumery 1349
Fluid Alloy of Sodium and Po-
tassium 3455
Fluid Extracts 4571, <tc.
Fluid Extracts, Classified For-
mula} for obtaining . . . .4573, <fec.
Fluid Extract of Aconite Leaves4574
Fluid Extract of Aconite-root. 4575
Fluid Extract of Allspice (Pi-
mento) 4579
Fluid Extract of Bearberry . . . .4577
Fluid Extract of Belladonna. . . 4574
Fluid Extract of Bittersweet . .4577
Fluid Extract of Blackberry-
root 4577
Fluid Extract of Black Cohosh
(Cimieit'uga Raeemosa) .4575, 4592
Fluid Extract of Blessed-Thistle
(Carduus Benedictus) 4604
Fluid Extract of Blood-Root.. .4575
Fluid Extract of Boneset 4576
Fluid Extract of Buchu . . 4574, 4590
Fluid Extract of Burdock 4596
Fluid Extract of Calisaya 4577
Fluid Extract of Canella 4579
Fluid Extract of Capsicum 4579
Fluid Extract of Cardamom . . . 4579
Fluid Extract of Chamomile.. .4597
Fluid Extract of Chiretta 4576
Fluid Extract of Cinchona 4605
Fluid Extract of Cinnamon 4579
Fluid Extract of Cloves 4579
Fluid Extract of Colchicum ...4576
Fluid Extract of Columbo 4576
Fluid Extract of Cranesbill
(Geranium) 4577
Fluid Extract of Cubebs 4579
Fluid Extract of Elecampane. . 4579
Fluid Extract of Ergot 4578
Fluid Extract of Foxglove (Di-
gitalis) 4574
Fluid Extract of Galls 4577
Fluid Extract of Gentian- 4576
Fluid Extract of Hellebore,
American 4575
Fluid Extract of Hellebore,
Black . 4575
Fluid Extract of Hemlock (Co-
nhun) 4578
Fluid Extract of Henbane 4574
Fluid Extract of Hops 4594
Fluid Extract of Ipecacuanha .4575
Fluid Extract of Jnlap 4575
Fluid Extract of Life- root 4602
Fluid Extract of Liquorice 4595
Fluid Extract of Lobelia 4578
Fluid Extract of Lupulin 4579
Fluid Extract of Mandrake 4575
Fluid Extract of Matico 4574
Fluid Extract of May-Apple
Root 4575
Fluid Extract of Myrrh 4579
Fluid Extract of Orris-root 4579
Fluid Extract of Pnreira 4606
Fluid Extract of Pellitory-root 4579
Fluid Extract of Pink-root (Spi-
gelia) 4577
Fluid Extract of Pipsissewa. . .4577
Fluid Extract of Prickly-Ash
Bark 4579
Fluid Extract of Pomegranate-
root Bark 4577
Fluid Extract of Queen's-root
(Stillhigia) 4587
Fluid Extract of Red Bark 4605
Fluid Extract of Rhubarb, Al-
kaline 4591
Fluid Extract of Rhubarb and
Potossa 4586
Fluid Extract of Sarsaparilla . .4577
Fluid Extract of Seullcap 4601
Fluid Extract of Senna and
Jalap 4603
Fluid Extract of Seneka 4576,4598
Fluid Extrnct of Snake-root.
Black (Cimicifuga) 4575, 4592
Fluid Extract of Snake-root,
Virginia (Serpentaria) 4576
Fluid Extract of Squill. . .4576, 4593
Fluid Extract of Sumach 4600
Fluid Extract of Thorn-apple
(Stramonium) 4574
FLTJ — FRK
FUR — GAY
Fluid Extract of Valerian 4574 I French Brandy, Imitation 681
Fluid Extract of Vanilla 4607 French Bronze 3780
Fluid Extract of Wild-Cherry
Bark 4589
Fluid Extract of Yarrow 4588
Fluid Extract of Yellow-Bark . 4577
Fluid for Smoking Msats 1601
Fluid Measures, Graduated ...5957
Fluor Spar 3960
Fluoric Acid 3960
Fluoric Acid, to obtain 3961
Fluorides 3960
Fluxes 3460, &c.
Flux, Black 3461
Flux, Cornish refining 3462
Flux, Cornish reducing 3465
Flux, Crude 3466
Flux, for Arsenic 3469
Flux for Copper 3470
Flux for reducing Load Ore. . .3464
Flux for soldering Various Met-
als 3476, &c., 3531
Flux for Spelter Solder 3489
Flux for Welding Metals 3531
Flux, Fresenius' 3468
Flux, Liebig's 3467
Flux, Reducing 3463
Flux, White 3462
Foils for Imitation Gems .2447, &c.
Fomentations 5165, &c.
Fomentation, Anodyne 515(i
Fomentation, Arnica 5159
Fomentation, Ordinary 5157
Fomentation, Stimulating 5160
Fomentation, Strengthening ..5158
Fontainemoreau's Bronzes 3448
Fontanier's Base for Artificial
Gems 2424
Food. Chemical 4645
Food for Mocking Birds, 6190, 6191
Foot, Lineal, Decimal Equiva-
lents of 5985
Foot-rot in Cattle, Ointment
for 5001
Ford's Balsam of Horehound . .5367
Foreign Weights and Mea-
sures 6054, &c.
Foreign Weights, &c., com-
pared with American 6055
Forges Water 4470
Forks, French Alloy for 3427
Forks, to clean 421
Forks, to fasten Handles on . . .2221
Forks, to keep, in good order. . 422
Formiato of Ethyl 4295
Formic Ether .
.4295
Toucher's Dressing for Wounds 5392
Foundations, Concrete for 2205
Fountains, Ajutage of 6233
Fowler's Solution 4804
Foxglove, Fluid Extract of.... 4574
Foxglove. Oil of 4752
Foxglove, Tincture of 4490
Foxing Beer 880
Foy's Muriatic Acid Chilblain
Lotion 5398
Foy's Sulphuric Acid Chilblain
Liniment 5399
Frames for Hot-beds, Varnish
for 0898
Frames, Picture, to clean 2J78
Frangipanni 948
Frangipanni, Essence or Extrait
of 948
Frangipanni Soap 562
Frank's Solution of Copaiba. ..4801
Frear Stone 2323
Freckle Balsam 1122
Freckles, Lotions to remove. . .1141
1153, &c.
Freckles, Pomade to remove ..1163
Freckles, to remove 5884
Freeman's Vermifuge Oil 5643
Freezing Mixtures 1687, &e.
French Alloy for Forks, &c 3427
French Beans. Pickled 1801
French Bell-Metnl 3441
French Binary Weights 6046
French Binary Weights com-
pared with American. . . 6047, &.c.
French Binary W_eights com-
pared with Metrical 6050
French Boot Varnish 0957
French Brown Dye for Cottons 149
French Champagne, Imitation. 722
French Cherry Bounce 795
French Chocolate 6276
French Cognac Bitters, i
815
French Coffee, to make 6287
French Coin Silver 3408
French Colorless Varnish 2935
French Hospital Itch Ointment 4955
French Huiles 1244
French Liard for Lubrication. .1543
French Linear Measure, Old. ..6051
French Lip_-Salvo 1174
French Method of Bleaching
Wax 1580
French Method of Coloring
Gold.
French Methods of Waterproof-
ing 1553, 1556
French Metrical Weights, &C.6052
French Money 6053
French Nut-Oil, to detect 1498
French Pastilles 1342, &c.
French Pastilles, Basis for 1341
French Pepsine Wine 4721
French Polish 2996, &c.
French Polish, Spirits for Fin-
ishing 3006
French Polish, to color or stain, 3003
French Polish, Waterproof 3004
French Polishing 2981, 2993, &c.
French Polishing, Rubber for. .2995
French Pomades 1262
French Process for Turkey Red 189
French Silver 3428
French Syrup of Balsam of Co-
paiba 4667
French Syrup of Santonin 4668
French Washing Composition 6306
French Weights and Measures 6045
French- White Dye for Silks... 263
French- White for the Complex-
ion 1108
Frescoes, Glazing for 6315
Fresenius' Flux 3468
Fretting in Wines 757
Frey's Vermifuge 5426
Friars' Balsam 5091
Frit for Artificial Gems. .2352, 2419
Frit for Enamels 2379
Frontignac Wine, Imitation. . .6418
6419.
Frost Bites, Remedies for, 5843, &c.
Frosted Beer, to recover 879
Frothing over in Churning, to
prevent. '. 6286
Frozen Potatoes, to remedy 6204
Fruit Acid 1401
Fruit Essences, Artificial, 1045, &c.
Fruit-Stains, toremove,364, &c., 370
Fruit, to can 1634, &c.
Fruit, to dry 1640
Fruit, to keep, fresh 1638, 1642
Fruit, to preserve, in Glycerine, 1643
Fruit Trees, see TKEKS.
Fuch's Soluble Potash Glass. . .2817
Fuch's Soluble Soda Glass 2818
Fuchsinc 2553, 2G13
Fuchsine, to dye with 2613
Fuchsinc, to Photograph with, 3156
Fuligokali Ointment 5380
Fuligokali, to obtain 5381
Fulminates 2130, <tc.
Fulminating Antimony 2131
Fulminating Copper 2135
Fulminating Gold 2132
Fulminating Mercury 2134
Fulminating Powder 213G
Fulminating Silver 0133
Fnmaric Acid 3'J67
Fumigation of Plants 1352
Fumigation, Pastils for. ..1337, £c.
Fuming Liquor 5353
Fuming Sulphuric Acid H858
Furnace-Slag, Cement from 2212
Furniture, Paste for Polishing, 2988
2990.
Furniture, Polish for ..... 0987, <tc.
Furniture, to clean . .2SJ85, 2!)8(i, 64] 1
Furniture, to polish ...... 2985, 2987
Furniture, to take bruises, put of 6221
Furniture, to varnish 2974, <fcc.
Furniture, to wax 2992
Fur-skins, to tan 645, &c.
Furs, to clean 650, <fcc.
Furs, to improve G53
Furs, to preserve, from Moth. . . 654
Fusel Oil, to free Alcohol from. 1445
Fusibility of Metals 3353
Fusible Alloys 3456, 3504
Fusible Alloys, Amalgam of. ..3547
Fusible Alloys, Moulds of 3679
Fusion 19
Galbanum Pills, Compound 4921
Galena 3253
Gallates 3905
Gallic Acid 3905
Gallic Acid, from Tannin 3907
Gallic Acid, to distinguish, from
Tannic Acid 3908
Gallic Acid, to obtain 3906
GaUipoli Oil, to detect 1498
Gallipoli Oil, to test 1499
Galls, Fluid Extract of 4577
Galls in Horses, Lotion for 4855
Galls, Lotion of 4846
Galls, Ointment of 5006
Galls, Tincture of 4561
Galvanic Battery, Improved Li-
quid for 3668
Galvanic Battery, Material for
Cells 2213
Galvanic Battery, Principles of,
Explained 3665
Galvanic Battery, to amalgamate
Zinc for 3555, 3662
Galvanic Battery, toconstructa3666
Galvanic Battery, to Electro-
type with.
3671
Galvanic Battery, to keep the
Zinc Amalgamated 3663
Galvanic Tinning 3751
Galvanic Troughs, Cement for 2170
Galvanized Iron 3649
Galvanized Iron, Test for 3758
Game, to keep, fresh 1645
Gannal's Antiseptic Solution . . 1657
Ganteine 6332
Gants Cosmeiiques 1176
Garden, Receipts for the. .1819, &c.
Garden-beds, to drive Vermin
from 1923
Garden-beds to protect, from
Snails 1862
Garden -walks, see GRAVEL
WALKS.
Gargles 5063, &c.
Gargle, Anti-syphilitic 5415
Gargle, Borax und Honey 5307
Gargle, Carbolic Acid 5066
Gargle for Diphtheria, <te 5073
Gargle for Sore Throat. . .5065, &c.
Gargle for Threatened Mortifi-
cation 5071
Gargle, Mucilaginous 5070
Gargle, Potassa 5064
Gargle to promote Suppuration 5072
Garlic, Oil of 4752
Garlic Vinegar 1774
Garnet Foil 2454
Garnet, Imitation 2357, 2429
Garret's Coating for Pills 5359
Gams, Elixir do 4717
Gas 4030, &c.
Gas Bajrs, torncnd 0392
Gas, Cod, to detect Sulphur in 4399
Gas Meters, to keep, from Freez-
ing 6214
Gas Pipe, tr> bend 631G
Gas, to find the Specific Gravity
of 49
Gas, to find the Weight of 4032
Gas Tubing, India-rubber, to
make Gas-tight 4033
Gas, Weight, <tc., cf 6138
Gasoline 1 527
Gassicourt's Turpentine Lotion 5401
Gauge Stuff for Plastering 0200
Gay-Lnssac's Acidimeter 82
Gay-Lussac's Alcoholmeter .. .6157
Gay-Lussnc's Alknlimetcr .
Furniture, to restore .......... 0978 j Gay.Lussac's Areometers Cl 55, 615C
B8O GAY — GIL Grri — GLA
Gay-Lnssac's Pouret 82 ! Gilding, to burnish 2566
Gay-Lussac's Pyrophonts 4343 j Gilding, to finish 3568
Gedding's Pile Ointment 5254 [ Gilding, to mat or deaden 3567
Gelatine 4365 < Gilding, to prepare Picture
Gelatine, Bone 4367
Gelatine Capsules 6338
Gelatine from Bones 4366
Gelatine, Patent 4369
Gelatine, Tests for 4370
Gelatine Wafers 4369
G elee ponr le Goitre 5271
Gelseminum, Tincture of 4493
Gems, Artificial 2419, &c.
Gems, Comparative Weight and
Hardness of 6136
Gems, Imitation 2353
Gems, Imitation, Foils for, 2447, &c.
Gems, to cement, to Metal 2152
Gendar and Tralles Compared, 58
Gendar's Hydrometer 58
Frames for 3559, &c.
Gilding, to remove, from Old
GLA — GOL
Glauber's Salt 4207
Glaze for China and Earthen-
ware 2404, &c.
Glaze for Frescoes 6315
Glaziers' Solder . . - 3503
Gleet Powder 5314
China 3595 j Gloss-Finish on Woolens, to re-
Gilding, Water 3584 j store 469
Generator for making Vinegar, 1734 Gin, to clarify 704 ! Glue, Isin
Generator, Vinegar, to pack a, 1735
Gentian, Ferrophosphorated
Elixir of 4725
Gentian, Fluid Extract of 4576
Gentian, Tincture of 4569
Geographical Measure 6010
George s Myrrhine 5377
George's Preventive for Pitting
in Smallpox 5760
Geranium Cuttings, to manage 1831
Geranium, Fluid Extract of 4577
Gerlach's Tables of Soda Solu-
tions.
627
German Black Salve 5007
German Bouquet for Beer 882
German HardCoatingforWoodl683
German Lip Salve 1175
German Paste for feeding Sing-
ing Birds 6191
German Plate 3416
German Silver 3348, 3409, &c.
German Silver for Castings 3411
German Silver for Rolling 3410
German SUver, Genuine 3412
German Silver, Pclouze's 3413
German Silver, to coat, with Sil-
ver 3607
German Silver, to electroplate on371 1
German Silver, to electroplate
with 3770
German Soup Tablets 1633
German Syrup of Rhubarb 4675
German Tea for the Chest 5425
German Vinegar Process 1733
German Wine, to correct Acid-
ity in 753
Gherkins, Pickled 1793
Ghost Scenes, Fires for ..2078, 2101
Ghosts, Fire-eating 2101
Gilding 3556, <tc.
Gilding, Amalgam for 3533
Gilding, Brass for 3369, 3370
Gilding, Burnished 3558
Gilding by Amalgams 3590
Gilding, Electro, see ELKCTKO-
GILDING.
Gilding, Fire 3594
Gilding, Grecian 3577
Gilding, Leaf 3579
Gilding, Liquid for Cleaning. . .3598
Gilding Metal 3348
Gilding, Oil 3570, 3581
Gilding, Oil Size for 3571, 3580
Gilding on Book Edges 3574
Gilding on Flowers , .3(594
Gilding on Glass . . .3575, 3596, 3597
Gilding on Ivory 2005
Gilding on Japan-ware 3578
Gilding on Metal 3533, <tc., 3582, &c.
Gilding on Metal by Immer-
sion 3587, &c., 3743
Gilding on Metal, Solutions
for 3585, &c.
Gilding Paste 3593
Gilding on Pictnre Frames, Size
for.
.3562
Gilding on Silk 3599
Gilding on Silver 3577
Gilding on Steel 3586
Gilding on Wood 3557, &c.
Gilding on Wood, Implements
for 3557
Gilding, Water Size for 3572
Gilding with Dutch Metal 3576
Gilding without a Batterv 3743, &c.
Gilt Articles, Test Fluid for . . .3746
Gilt Articles, to dissolve the
Gold from 3739, &c.
Gilt Articles, to test 3747
Gilt Back-ground for Prints, &c,2945
Gin, Finings for 706
Gin, Imitation 697 j Glue, Elastic 2306
Gin, Stained, to clarify 708 | Glue, Ether 6385
Gin, to blanch 705 I Glue, India-rubber 2291, 2293
Gloss for the Hair 1196
Gloves, Cosmetic 1176
Gloves, Kid, to clean 439
Gloves, Kid, to preserve from
Perspiration 6243
Gloves, Kid, to remove Stains
from 438
Glue 2277, &c.
Glue, Caseine 2294
Gin, to remove Blackness from 707
Ginger Beer 893, &c.
Ginger Beer, Powders for 902
Ginger, Essence of 4619, &c.
Ginger, Extract of 1038
Ginger, Oleoresin of 4584
Ginger Pop 896
Ginger Syrup for Soda Water. 1392
Ginger, Tincture of 4558
Ginger Wine 736, &c.
Ginghams, to preserve the Colors
ofT
Girambing (Lemon Ginger-
Beer) 901
Glass, Various Kinds of . .2339, &c.
Glass, Amalgam for Silvering, . 3538
3545.
Glass, Cements for Joining . 2153,2156
2237, 2247.
Glass, Coloring for 2361
487
Glass, Discolored, to clean 6212
Glass for Photography. . .3147, 3148
Glass Bottles, to clean 431
Glass Bottles, to fill, with Boil-
ing Liquid 4617
Glass Globes, to clean 429
Glass, Ground, to imitate. 2372, 6408
Glass, Heated Suddenly, to keep
from Cracking 1G38, 6210
Glass, Lead 2352
Glass Letters, Cement for. ....6312
Glass, Light House 2362
Glass, Mucilage to adhere to ..2309
Glass of Antimony 2370
Glass ofBorax 2377
Glass Paper or Cloth 1 933
Glass, Pencils to write on 6390
Glass, Soluble, sec SOLUKLE GLASS.
Glass, Staining for 2361
Glass Stoppers, to remove 6206
Glass, Substitute for, to use in
Hot-houses 1887
Glass Syringes, Cement for 21fi6
Glass, to clean 417, 6330
Glass, to break, in any required
Shape 2368, 23(59
Glass, to clean, for Silvering. . .3621
Glass, to cut, without a Dia-
mond 21567, &c.
Glass, to drill 2306
Glass, to engravcou 2376
Glass, to etch on 2374
Glass, to gild on 3575, 3596, <fcc.
Glass, tojoiu, to Metals. 2170, 2227,
2261, 2262.
Glass, to mend 2156
Glass, to platinize 3656, 3657
Glass, to polish Silvered 3622
Glass, to pulverize 25, 1932
Glass, to remove Tar, &c.,
from.
.6422
Glass, to silver, with Amalgam 361 3
Glass, to silver, by Solutions. . .3615
&c., 3631.
Glass, totransferEngravingson6335
Glass, to write on 2371, 2375
Glass Tubes, to bend 3851
Glass, Varnish for Engravingon 2959
Glass Vessels, Lute for Protect-
ing 2270
Glass, Window, to restore the
Color of 6211
.2292
Glue, Liquid... 2284, &c., 2298, 2303
Glue, Marine 2291
Glue, Mouth 2307
Glue, Portable 2308
Glue Sizing, to make 2815
Glue, to apply 2296
Glue, to keep from Souring 2282
Glue, to prepare, for Ready Use 2283
Glue, to prevent, from Cracking 2278
Glue to resist Moisture . . . 2280, 2290
Glue, Tungstic 2281
Glue, Strong, to make 2279
Glue, Waterproof 2291
Glycerinated Lotions, see LO-
TIONS.
Glycerinated Ointments, see
OINTMENTS.
Glycerine 4359
Glycerine Amandine 1119
Glycerine Balsam 5095
Glycerine, Caution about 1 152
Glycerine, Commercial 4360
Glycerine Composition for Lea-
ther 3073
Glycerine Cream 1 129
Glycerine Cream, Rose 1130
Glycerine, Deflagrating 2137
Glycerine Ink 2471
Glycerine Jelly 5225
Glycerine Lip-Salvo 1 173
Glycerine Lotions.. 1147, &c., 1150
1153, 4839, &c.
Glycerine Paste 2299, 5226
Glycerine Regenerative Hair-
Wash
.1181
Glycerine Soap 570, 574
Glycerine, Solidified Toilet 6398
Glycerine, Solvent Power of. . . 4361
Glycerine Starch or Plasma. . 5009
Glycerine, Tests for 1151, 4364
Glycerine, to preserve Fruit in .1643
Glycerine, to purify 4362, &c.
Glycerine, use of, in Wine 725
Glycerine Varnish for the Skin 5491
Glycerinized Collodion 1169
Glycerole, Narcotic 5016
Glyconino 5491
Gnats, Protection against 1916
Goadby's Antiseptic Solution. .1665
Goebei's Pyrophorus 4344
Goddard's Aromatic Blackberry
Syrup 4685
Goddard's Cure for Loss of
Voice 5617
Goddard's Diarrhoea Remedy. .5656
Goddard's Elixir of Valerianate
of Ammonia 4733
Goddard's Gonorrhrea Reme-
dies 5733, 5734
Godfrey's Cordial 5364
Goitre Jelly 5271
Gold.
.3189
Gold, Alloys of 3398, &c.
Gold Amalgam 3533
Gold Amalgam, to gild with.. 3534
Gold, Assay of 3190, <fcc.
Gold, Assay of, Weights used in 5948
Gold, Chemically Pure 3193
Gold, Chlorides of 3725, 4075
Gold, Coin 3399
Gold Coins, to clean 3239
Gold-color Bronzing Powder. . . 3795
GOV — ORE
ORE — GUT
Gold-colored Dye for Silks 268 j Government Land Measure. . . .5984
Gold-colored Sealing Wax 2318 Government Stamp Mucilage. .2300
Gold-colored Stain for Marble. .2041
Gold-coloring for Brass 3390
Gold-coloring Solution 3199
Gold, Counterfeit or Imitation. 3397
3431, 6364.
Gold, Cyanide of 3727
Gold Detergent 3598
Gold, Different Degrees of Fine-
ness of 3400, &c.
Gold Enamel, Black 2398
Gold, Ethereal Solution of 3585
Gold Fish, to keep 6189
Gold, French Method for Color-
ing 3197
Gold, Fulminating 2132
Gold, Grain 3194
Gold, Green 3404
Gold, Hard 3398
Gold Ink 2491
Gold Labels on Glass Bottles. .2493
Gold Lace, to clean 414
Gold Lacquer for Brass, &c. . .3048
Gold Leaf, to apply 3565
Gold Leaf, to burnish 3566
Gold Leaf, to mat or deaden.. 3567
Gold Leaf, to prevent, from
adhering 3573
Gold Leaf, to pulverize 25, 2517
Gold, Liquid 2518, 3195
Gold Lustre for Pottery 2415
Gold, Mosaic 6362
Gold Plating Powder 3591
Gold Plating Powder, to apply 3592
Gold, Polishing Powder for 3204
Gold, Shell 3569
Gold Size for gilding AVood, &c,3562
3580.
Gold, Solder for 3492
Gold, Solution of, for Electro-
gilding 3726, 3728
Gold, Solution of, for Gilding
Steel 3585
Gold Sprinkle for Bookbinders. 3106
Gold-Stone, Imitation 2443
Gold, Talmi 3432
Gold, Tests for, in Solutions 4076
Gold, to clean 3202
Gold, to clean, after soldering. 3300
Gold, to color 3197, <tc.
Gold, to distinguish, from Imita-
tions 3745
Gold, to recover, from Gilt Arti-
cles 3739, 3741
Gold, to recover, from its Solu-
tions 3158, 3740
Gold, to restore the Color of 3201
Gold, to test 4386
Gold Tracingon Metal 3583
Gold Watch-Bands, to color,
Red 3196
Golden-Brown Hair Dye 1212
Golden Compound 6364
Golden Drops 5210
Golden Rain for Rockets 2056
Golden Tincture 5251
Golden- Yellow Hair Dye 1208
Gondret's Ammoniacal Oint-
ment 5477
Gongs 3446
Goniometer 3833
Gonorrhoea, Injection for. 5435, 5438
&c., 5732, &c.
Gonorrhoea, Pills for 4911
Gonorrhoea, Remedies for 5731, &c.
Good Samaritan Liniment 4858
Good Old Samaritan Liniment. 5283
Goose Feathers, to cleanse 659, 6324
Gooseberry and Currant Wine. .728
Gooseberry Essence 1056
Gooseberry Wino 728, 734, 735
Gouffe's Eau do Cologne 981
Goulard's Cerate 5476
Goulard's Extract, Antidote for 5908
Goulard's Eye-water 5804
Goulard's Poultice 5030
Goulard's Water 4776
Gowland's Lotion 1155
Graeger's Copper Coating for
Iron 3636
Grafting Clay 1882
Grafting Wax 1880
Graham's Bronzing Liquids 3797
Graham's Neuralgic Liniment. 5220
Grahame's Elixir of Bismuth. .5420
Grahame's Fluid Extract of
Burdock 4596
Grahame's Method of Percola-
tion 4572
Grain Gold 3194
Grain Measure, Apothecaries. .5956
Grain of Paradise, Tincture of. 1021
Grain Tallow 532
Grain Tallow Soap 544
Grain Tin . . 3316
Grams compared with Apothe-
caries' Weight 6030
Grams compared with Avoir-
dupois 6028
Grams compared with Cubic
Metres 6027
Grams compared with Troy. . .6029
Granulation 20
Granville's Counter-irritant Lo-
tions 5451
Grape Champagne 6417
Grape Essence, Artificial 1055
Grape Syrup 1414
Grape Wine 728, 734, 740
Grass, Artificial Manure for. . .1827
Grass, Dried, to stain 6172
Grass on Gravel Walks, to de-
stroy 1870
Grass Plots, Worms in, to de-
stroy 1876
Grass, to cover Banks with 1886
Grates, Varnish for 2902
Gravel, Pills for the 5244
Gravel Walks, Concrete for. ..2207
Gravel Walks, to destroy Grass
on 1870
Gravel Walks, to destroy Weeds
on 1870, 1875
Gravel Walks, to destroy Worms
on 1875
Gravel Walks, to make 6355
Gravel Walks, to prevent Weeds
on 1869
Gravel Walks, to remove Moss
from 1861
Gravers, to temper 3287
Graves' Gout Preventive 5214
Grease, Bear's 1277
Grease for Lubrication. . .1541, &c.
Grease, French Scouring Drops
for 354
Grease, to preserve 536, 6309
Grease, to remove, from Boards,395
Grease, to remove, from Carpets 357
Grease, to remove, from Cloth. .345
Grease, to remove, from Paper. .410
Grease, to remove, from Silk350,&c.
Grease, to remove, from Velvet. 331
Grease-Spots, to kill, before
Painting 2778
Grease-Spots, to remove. . . .344, &c.
Greasy Paper, to write on 2506
Grebe, to clean 656
Grecian Gilding on Silver 3577
Greek Fire 2129
Green and Crimson, to dye 285
Green and Pink, to dye 284
Green Aniline Dyes 2598, &c.
Green- Anise Water, to distill.. 1071
1073.
Green Bengal Lights 2072
Green Cement 2186
Green Coloring for Oils 5384
Green Copying Paper 1948
Green Dye for Cottons. 161, &c., 188
Green Dye for Feathers 326
Green Dye for Ivory 1989
Green Dye for Leather 6351
Gout Paper 5237 Green Dye for Parchment 1969
Gout, Pills for 5182, 5187, 5196, 5318 Green Dye for Silks. . .276, &c., 317
Gout, Poultice for 5035 Green Dye for Woods 2830
Gout, Preventive against 5214 | Green Dye for Woolens. . .206, &c.,
Gout, Wine for 5408! 226,318.
Green Enamels 2383
Green Fire 2078, &c., 2111
Green Fly on Plants, to remove, 1851
1854.
Green Foil for Imitation Gems. 2451
Green Glazing 2407
Green Hair-oil 1235
Green Ink 2495
Green Lights 2115, 2122
Green Marbling for Books 3111, 3113
Green Mould, to remove, from
Bricks 2809
Green Mountain Salve 5345
Green Oil 5385
Green Pigments 2691, 2701, 2710
Green Salve 4970, 4973
Green Sealing Wnx 2324
Green Stain for Glass 2361
Green Stain for Marble 2042
Green Stain for Wood 2860
Green, to color Fat 1260
Green Varnish, Transparent ..2941
Green Vitriol 4146
Gregory's Powder 5211, 5414
Gregory's Pure Muriatic Acid. 3884
Grey Cement 2184, 2194
Grey Dye for Veneers 2841
Grey Dye for Woods 2836
Griffin's Tincture for Coughs. .5234
Grimault's Matico Injection. . .5435
Grimault's Syrup of Horserad-
ish 4688,4689
Grindstones,' Artificial. . .6267, 6268
Griudstones, how to use 6271
Gross' Treatment of Burns 5516
Grosvenor's Tooth Powder 1299
Ground Glass, to imitate. 2372, 6408
Groves' Chlorodync 5202
Grub in Onions, to prevent 1856
Gruene's Gilding and Silvering'
on Silk 3599
Gunincura, Essence of 4623
Guaiacum, Tincture of ... 4505, 5441
Guaincum, Syrup of 4676
Guanidine 4015
Guanino .' 4015
Guano, Artificial 1825, 1828
Guano, Liquid 1824
Guignolet 795
Gum Arabic, to keep, from
Moulding 6381
Gum, Chewing 0317
Gum Syrup 1371
Gums, Anti-scorbutic'Dentifrice
for the .' 1306, 1310
Gums, Sore, Lotion for 1156
Gums, to preserve the 5866
Gums, Ulcerated, Lotion for. . .5461
Gums, Washes to harden the.. 1328
Gum-Tragacanth. Test for 4384
Gumming in Fruit Trees.tocure 1873
Gun, Scattering, to remedy a. .6299
Gun-Barrels to blue 3263
to brown 3828
to clean 3304
to ornament 3'264
to protect, from
Gun-Barrels
Gun-Barrels
Gun-Barrels
Gun-Barrels
Sea-air. ... '. 3305
Gun-Barrels, Varnish for 2954
Gun-Cotton 2141
Gun-Cotton Filter 18
Gun-Cotton for Collodion 4743
Gun Metal 3348
Gunpowder 2140
Gunpowder, Burns from, Treat-
ment of 5523
Gunter's Chain 5995
Gutta-Percha Cement . ..2247, 2256
Gutta-Percha, Cement to unite,
to Silk, &c 2250
Gutta-Percha, Cement to unite,
to Leather 2251
Gutta-Percha Filling for Teeth,5880
Gutta-Percha Moulds, to make,3681
Gutta-Percha Moulds, to pre-
pare, for Electrotyping 3689
Gutta-Percha Oil-varnish 2888
Gutta-Percha Solution, clear. .2946
Gutta-Percha, Solvents for 2947
Gutta-Percha Tissue 6360
Gutta-Percha, to bleach 1725
Gutta-Percha, to clean C348
Gutta-Percha, to dye C347
583 GUT— HAR
Gutta-Percha, White 5881
Gypsum, see PLASTER OF PARIS.
Haerlem Drops 5342
Hager's Vermin Ointment 5395
Hahnemann's Test for Lead in
Wine 4402
Hair, Black Powder for the 1103
Hair, Blonde Powder for the. . . 1104
Hair, Depilatoriesforremovingl219
Hair, Pomades for Strengthen-
ing the 1279, &c.
Hair, Prepared Bran for the. . . 1102
Hair, Rose Bandoline for the.. 11 95
Hair, to bleach 1214
Hair, to change the Color of. . .1215
Hair, to dry a Lady's .••. 1197
Hair Brushes and Combs, to
clean 416
Hair-Cleansing Liquids 1187
Hair-Coloring 1216
Hair-Cosmetics, Caution about, 1286
Hair-Curling Liquids 1191
Hair-Darkening Preparations .1183
Hair-Dyes 1198, &c.
Hair-Dye, Black 1201, 6401
Hair-Dye, Black, to use 1202
Hair-Dye, Blonde 1206
Hair-Dye, Brown 1211, &c.
Hair-Dye, Caution in applying. 1213
Hair-Dye, Flaxen 1206
Hair-Dye, Pyrogallic 1200
Hair-Dye, Red 1204
Hair-Dye, Walnut 1199
Hair-Dye, Yellow 1208, &c.
Hair-Dye Stains, to remove... 385
Hair-Gloss 1196
Hair-Oils, Cheap 1249
Hair-Oil, Colorless 1231
Hair-Oil for Strengthening the
Hair 1250, &c.
Hair-Oil, French 1244
Hair-Oil, to color 1232
Hair-Oil, to perfume 1230
Hair-Restorer 1217
Hair-Tonic 1180
Hair- Varnish 2892
Hair- Washes 1177, &c.
Hair- Wash, Cleansing 1187, &c.
Hair- Wash, Curling 1191
Hair- Wash, Darkening. . . 1183, &c.
Hair- Wash, Drying 1194, 1197
Hair- Wash. Restorative.. 1177, 1179
Hair- Wash, Softening 1186
Hair- Wash, Strengthening 1180
Half-Hitch Knot, Double 0264
Hall's Dinner Pills 5181
Hall's Solution of Strychnia 5354
Halls, Stone, to clean 428
Hamburg Bitters 828
Hamburg Tea 5418
Hamilton's Tincture of Dog-
wood, .' 4553
Hams, Pickle for 1603, 1(508
Hams, to cure 1606
Hams, to preserve 1613
Hams, to smoke 1600
Handles of Knives, to keep, from
Cracking 6323
Hands, Cacao Pomade forthc. .1136
Hands, Chapped, to euro 5822
Hands, to prevent, from Chap-
ping r>822
Hands, to remove Stains from
the 387, 2566, 3141
Hard and Soft Soap 520
Hard Soap, to make 520, &c., 582, &c.
Hard Soap, to pulverize ' 619
Hard Soldering 3488, &c.
Hardwich's Photographic Ton-
ing Bath 3184
Hare's Colorless Photograph
Varnish 2932
Hare's Pyrophorus 4342
Harlaud's Gonorrhoea Reme-
dies 5731, 5732
Harmalino 4009
Harmine 4009
Harness, Blacking for 3081, &c.
Harness Blacking, to apply . . .3085
Harness, Cement for Joining . .2245
Harness, ,Tct for 307!)
Harness, Polish for 3075 j
HAR — HOM
Harness, to clean 3074
Harness, to preserve, 3074
Harness, to restore the Lustre
of 3066
Harness, to soften, when Hard 3067
Harness, Varnish for 2966
Harrogate Water 4466
Hartshorn, to purify 1293
Harvey's Sauce 1758
Hat-Bfack Dye for Silks 240
Hats, Alkali Stiffening for 336
Hats, Spirit Stiffening for 335
Hats, to dye 334
Hausmann's Indestructible Ink 2527
Hay Fever, Treatment of 5591
Hayes' Pile Liniment 5219
Headache, Essence for 5229
Headache, Remedies for. .5702, &c.
Heading for Beer 876
Healing Paper 5059
Healing Salve 4971
Health Pills 5188, 5199
Heart, Palpitation of, to relieve,5766
Heartburn, Treatment of 5690
Heat, Amount of, for boiling
Syrups 1361
Heat conducting Power of Build-
ing Materials 6125
Heavy Spar 2697
Heliotrope, Eau do 1003
Hellebore, American, Fluid Ex-
tract of 4575
Hellebore, American, Tincture
of 4496, 4515
Hellebore, Black, Fluid Extract
of 4575
Hellebore, Black, Tincture of .4506
Hemlock, Fluid Extract of 4578
Hemlock Liniment 4859
Hemlock, Oil of 4752
Hemlock Poultice 5034
Hemlock Salve 4969
Hemlock, Syrup of, Compound. 4681
Hemlock, Tincture of 4489
Hemorrhage, Prepared Cotton
for 5560
Hemorrhage, Solution for. 4816, 5429
Hemorrhage, Treatment of 5556, &c.
Hemp, Tincture of 4485
Hempseed Oil, Tests for. .1497, 1498
Henbane, Fluid Extract of 4574
Henbane, Oil of 4752
Henbane, Tincture of 4511
Henderson's Lotion for Corns. .5329
Henry's Aromatic Vinegar 1086
Henry's Magnesia 5230
Herbarium, to form a 6176
Herb Drink for Fevers 5136
Herbs, Soup, Extract of 1044
Herbs, to extract Essential Oil
from 46
Herbs, to gather and dry 6240
Herbs, to preserve, for Perfum-
ery 1349
Hermetical Sealing for Bottles. 2238
Heusler's Red Ink 2498
Heyle's Horse Embrocation . . .5222
Hickory-Nut Flavoring for Li-
quors 671
Higgins' Stucco 2201
High Wine 1435
Hill's Balsam of Honey 5231
Hirzel's Mode of Preserving
Fats 1515
Hive Syrup 5273
Hoarseness, Cure for 5617, &c.
Hoarseness, Syrup for 5249
Hoarseness, to prevent 5621
Hock Syrup 1423
Hodgen's Stomnch-Pump 5917
Hoffmann's Aniline Purple 2608
Hoffmann's Anodyne 4749
Hoffmann's Life Balsam 5112
Hogg's Pepsine Pills 5460
Hog's Lard, sec LAUD.
Hogs, Live, Weight of Pork in 6129
Hogs, to drive Fleas from 1913
Holland, Weights and Measures
of 6090
Holland Linen, Sizing for 6328
Tlolloway's Ointment 5368
Holloway's Pills 5369
Ilomberg's Pyrophorus 4341
HOM — HTD
Home-Made Champagne. .730, 6417
Home-Made Soap 549, 551
Home-Made Tallow Candles. .. 631
Home-Macle Wines 727, &o.
Homoeopathic Cholera Prevent-
ive 5671
Homoeopathic Cholera Remedy 5672
Homoeopathic Mustard Plaster 5056
Hones, Lubricators for. . .6270, 6272
Hones, to face 6274
Honey 1565, &c.
Honey and Almond Paste 1134
Honey, Artificial... 1572, 1574, 6416
Honey, Balsam of 5093, 5231
Honey, Cosmetic Balsam of . . .1121
Honey, Cuba 1573
Honey of Borax 4695
Honey of Roses 4694
Honey of Violets 4696
Honey, Test for 1576
Honey, to clarify 1569, &c., 4693
Honey, to purify 1566, &c.
Honey Water 1006
Honey Wine 733
Honey-Soap, Imitation 561
Honey-Soap, to make 560
Honeysuckle Pomade 1263
Hoof, Cracked, Ointment for ..5002
Hooks and Eyes, to silver 3608
Hooper's Female Pills 5382
Hope's Camphor Mixture 5387
Hope's Cough Mixture 5611
Hops, Fluid Extract of 4594
Hops, Tincture of 4510
Horehound, Balsam of ...5092, 5367
Horn 2012
Horn, to dye 2013
Horn, to imitate Tortoiseshell
with 2016
Horn, to polish 2019
Horn, to prepare 2014
Horn, to silver 3628
Horn, to unite 2615, 2018
Hornet Stings, to cure 5927
Horsemint, Essential Oil of 1465
Horseradish, Syrup of 4688
Horseradish, Syrup of, lodin-
ized 4689
Horseradish Vinegar .1773
Horseradish Water, to distill. .1071
1073.
Horse Liniment 4896, 5222
Horses, to banish Fleas from.. 1913
Horses, to keep Flies from 1924
Horsley's Chlorodyne 5205
Hortus Siccus, to form a 6176
Hot Drops 5179
Hot Drops for Beer 891
Hot-Houses, Substitute for Glass
for 1887
House-Painting 2745, &c., 2756
House-Painting, Flatting for. .2753
House-Painting, Inside Work 2751
House-Painting, Outside Work.2749
House-Painting, Preparing for. 2746
House-Painting, when to do. ..2755
Houses, Old, to paint 2773
Hubbell's Creain Syrup 1428
Hubbell's Extract of Culisaya. .4706
Hubbell's Wine of Iron 4705
Huckleberry Wine 728
Hudson's Cold Cream 1126
Hufeland's Anti-catarrh Elixir,5447
Hufeland's Aperient Elixir 5446
Hufeland's Diuretic Drops 5311
Hufeland's Infant Powder 5450
Hufeland's Pectoral Elixir 5445
Hufeland's Zinc Cerate 5379
Huile a 1'Ambre 1240
Huile a la Vanille 1239
Huile d' Ambergris 1240
Huile Musqufe 1236
Huile Royale 1237
Huiles, French 1244
Hungarian Liniment 4867, 5473
Hungarian Pomade 1287
Hunter's Bougie 6370
Hunter's Red Drop 5411
Husson, Eau Meaicinale de...5208
Hyacinth Roots, to preserve. . . 1888
Hyacinths, to raise, in Winter 1840
Hydrangea Cuttings, to man-
age 1842
HYD— IND
INI) — INK
INK— HtO 533
Hydrangea Flowers, to make, I India-Rubber Glue . . . . 2293
Hydrate of Alumina 4257
Hydrate of Chloral 4276
Hydrate of Chloral, Syrup of. .4679
Hydrate of Chloral, to adminis
ter.
4746
Hydrate of Chloral, to purify.. 4278
Hydrate of Lime 3994
Hydrate of Phenyle 3916
Hydrate of Potassa 3976, 4192
Hydrate of Soda 3979
Hydraulic Cement 2174
Hydriodates 3970, 4326
Hydriodate of Quinine 4264
Hvdriodatc Solution for Photo-
gra
.3183
Hydriodic Acid 3970
Hydriodic Acid. Dilute 3972
Hydriodic Acid, to obtain. . . .3971
Hydrobromates, see BROMIDES.
Hy drobromic Acid 4261
Hydrochlorates, see MURIATES.
Hydrochloric Acid, see MURI-
ATIC ACID.
Hydrocyanates 3947
Hydrocyanic Acid, see Pitussic
ACID.
Hydroferridcyanic Acid 3954
Hydro ferrocyanic Acid 3956
Hydrofluorates 3960
Hydrofluoric Acid 3960
Hydrogen 4041
Hydrogen, Carburetted 4048
Hydrogen, Phosphuretted 4055
Hydrogen, Sulphuretted. 3870, 4052
Hydrogen, Tests for 4047
Hydrogen, to obtain 4042, &c.
Hydrographic Paper 1976
Hydrometers, Standard 53, &c.
Hydrometers, sec AUEOMETEKB.
Hydrophobia, Cures for.. 5920, &c.
Hydrophobia, to prevent 5923
Hydrophobia, Treatment of. ..5919
Hydrosulphate of Ammonia. . . 1203
Hydrosulphides. See HYDRO-
SOLrHORETS.
Hydrosulphuret of Ammonia.. 1203
Hydrosulphuret of Ammonia,
Solution of 4803
Jlydrosulphurct of Ammonium4228
Hydrosulphuric Acid 3870
Hydrochloric Ether 4290
Hydrochlorite of Lime. . 4245
Hypochlorite of Soda Solution 4788
Hypochondriasis, Treatment of 5577
Hyponitric Acid 3872
Hyponitrous Acid Disinfectant 1697
Hypophosphites, Compound Sy-
rup of 4643, &c.
Hypophosphito of Iron 4642
Hypophosphoric Acid 3928
Hyposulphite of Lime 4248
Hyposulphite of Soda 4211
Hyssop Water, to distill, 1071, 1073
Ice, Camphor 1132
Ice, to keep, in Summer 1691
Igneous Fusion 19
Ignition 3850
Imitations, see ARTICLE IMITATED.
Inperial Peach Brandy 786
Imperial Pop 900
Imperial Weights and Mea-
sures 6031, &c.
Implements for Gilding1 on
Wood 3557
Incense .1346, &c,
Inches Compared with Metres. 5977
Inches, Decimal Equivalents of5'.)79
Incontinence of Urine, to cure 5743
Incrustations, see BOILEII I\-
CIIU8TATIOXS.
Indelible Inks 2508, &c.
Indelible Ink Stains, to remove. 129
385, 6340.
Indelible Marking Ink 2508, &.c.
Indelible Printing Ink 2546
Indelible Writing Fluid 2489
Indestructible Inks 2526, &c.
India Japanning 3038, &c.
India Nut-oil, Test for 1497
India-Rubber Oil Varnish 2886, &c.
India-Rubber Over-shoes, to
mend 2258, 6374
India-Rubber, Solvents for 2947
India- Rubber Spirit-varnish . . 2949
2952.
India-Rubber, to dissolve 2248
India-Rubber, to join, to Wood
or Metal 2253
India-Rubber Tubing, to ren-
der, Gas-tight 4033
Indian Cathartic Pills 5303
Indian Curry Powder 1760
Indian Dysentery Cure 5676
Indian or Chinese Ink 2515
Indian Ink Sketches, to pro-
tect.
.6363
Indian Liniment 5228
Indian Pickle 1805
Indian Red 2718
Indian Remedy for Rhenmatism5536
Indian Turnip Poultice 5028
Indian Vegetable Pills 5186
Indian White Fire 2104
Indigo-Blue Dye for Yarn 130
Indigo Extract 99
Indigo, Solution of 4791
Indigo, Solvents for 2619, 3858
Indigo, Sulphate of 98, 4791
Inexhaustible Smelling Salts.. 1093
Inextinguishable Match 2061
Infant Powder 5450
Infant Preservative 5352
Infants, Diarrhoea in, to cure. 5661
5666.
Infection, to prevent 1707, 1708
Inflamed Parts, Lotion for 4823
Inflammation of the Ear, Rem-
edy for 5813
Inflammation of the Throat, see
GARGLES.
Influenza, Mixture for 5623
Infusion 37
Infusions, to prepare 38
Infusion, Diuretic 5148
Infusion of Bark 5128
Infusion of Calumba 5121
Infusion of Roses 4739
Infusion, Tonic 5120
Infusion, to perfume Oils by. . .1228
Infusion, to perfume Pomades
by 1262
Infusion to produce Sweating. 5K!8
Ingall's lodoform Ointment 4992
Inhalation of Cubebs and Car-
bolic Acid 5606
Inhalation of Tar 5G13
Injection for Gonorrhoea 5435, 5438
5439.
Injection, to salt Meat by. . . .1604
Ink 24RO, <tc, (5406
Ink, Aniline 2497, 2511
Ink Blots, to remove 2507, 6393
Ink, Colored, sec COLOR desired.
Ink, Copying 2520
Ink, Drawing 2531
Ink Eraser, Improved 6393
Ink for Hand-stamps 2532
Ink for Marking Packages. . . .2521
Ink for Tombstones 2516
Ink for Writing on Silver 2525
Ink for Writing on Tin 6365
Ink for Writing on Zinc 2523
Ink, Indelible Marking.. 2489, 2509
<tc., 2532.
Ink, Indelible, to remove Stains
of 385,6340
Ink, Indestructible 2526, <tc.
Ink, Lithographic 2547
Ink, Permanence of 2475
Ink Powder 2474
Ink, Printers' 2543
Ink, Printers', to remove 404
Ink, Stenciling 6366
Ink, Sympathetic 2533, &c.
Ink, to keep, from thickening. .2470
Ink. to prevent, from moulding 24G2
Ink, to remove, from Books... 41"
Ink, Writing 24C1, &c.
Ink-Rollers, Composition for. .2541
Ink-Rollers, to clean 2542, 6337
India-Rubber. Cement to join. 2255 j Ink-Stains on Floors, to remove 392
' Ink-Stains on Linen, <fec.. to re-
move 375, 379, 384
Ink-Stains on Mahogany, to re-
move 389, &o.
Ink-Stains on Marble, to re-
move 402, 515
Ink-Stains on Silver, to remove. 3236
Inlaid Brass, to polish 2982
Inscriptions on Old Coins, to
develop 6237
Insect Bites and Stings, to cure 5927
Insects on Plants, to destroy.. 1845
Insects, Soap to destroy 580
Insects, to destroy 1900, 1908
Insects, to mount, for the Mi-
croscope 0179
Insects, to preserve 1676
Intermittent Fever, Remedy for 5756
Invisible-Green Dye for Wool-
ens 227
lodatcs 3968
lodic Acid 3968, 3969
Iodides 3970, 4326
Iodide of Ammonium 4225
Iodide of Cadmium 4262
Iodide of Iron 4161
Iodide of Iron, Liquor of 4703
Iodide of Iron Pills 4915, 4930
Iodide of Lead 4103
Iodide of Lead Ointment 4991
Iodide of Potassium 4203
Iodide of Potassium, Glycerin-
ated 5013
Iodide of Potassium, Lotion of. 1143
1144.
Iodide of Potassium, Glycero-
Pomade of 5373
Iodide of Potassium, Solution of 4779
Iodide of Potassium, Syrup of,
with Iron 4663
Iodide of Sodium 4216
Iodide of Sulphur Ointment 4950
Iodine 4326, 4327
Iodine, Caustic 5077
Iodine, Glycerinated 5015
Iodine Green Aniline Dye 2600
Iodine Lotion 4851
Iodine Lotion, Glycerinated.. 1144
Iodine Lotion, for the Skin . . . 1143
Iodine Ointment, Com pound.. 4942
Iodine Paint 5077
Iodine, Solution of 5421'
Iodine, Tests for 4329
Iodine, Tincture of 4491
Iodine, Tincture of, Compound 4570
Iodine, to dissolve, in Cod-liver
Oil 4328
Iodine, to prevent, from Staining5078
Iodine-Stains, to remove 371
Iodized Paper for Photography 3171
lodofonn Ointment : 4992
lodurets, see IODIDES.
loduretted Gaseous Water 4477,4478
Ipecacuanha, Fluid Extract of 4575
4599.
Ipecacuanha, Syrup of 4651
Ipecacuanha, Syrup of, Com-
pound 4682
Iridescent Paper 1931
Irish Whiskey, Imitation 690
Iron 3258
Iron, Acetate of 4159
Iron, Ammonio-citratc of 4162
Iron, Ammonio-pyrophosphato
of 4737
Iron Bath-tubs, to paint 6219
Iron Beams, Weight of 6145
Iron, Boiler, Weight of 6142
Iron, Brown Tint for 3262
Iron, Carbonate of, Saccharine 4 163
Iron, Carburet of 4164
Iron, Cast, to bronzo 3261, 3791
Iron, Cast, to scour 3271
Iron, Cast, to solder 3515
Iron, Cements for 2216, <fec.
Iron, Cement to join Leather to 2259
Iron, Cement to join Stone to. .2211
2215, 2222.
Iron, Chlorides of... 117, 4165, 4166
Iron, Citrate of 4160
Iron, Composition for Welding 3523
Iron, Fcmdcyanide of 41C9
Iron, Ferrocyanide of 41CT
584:
Iron Filings .................. 3265
Iron, Flux tor Soldering. 3477, 3531
Iron, Flux for Welding ....... 3531
Iron, Hypophosphito or ....... 4642
Iron, Iodide of ................ 4161
Iron, Lacquer for ............. 3059
Iron Liquor .................. 118
Iron Lustre for Pottery ....... 2416
Iron, Mixture of, Aromatic ---- 4712
Iron, Mixture of, Compound. . .5248
Iron-Mould, to remove ..... 375, &c.
Iron-Mould, to remove, from
Marble ..................... 402
Iron, Muriates of .............. 4165
Iron, Nitrates of ..... 116, 4171, &c.
Iron Ores, Percentage of Iron in3259
Iron, Oxalate of ............... 4158
Iron, Oxides of. ..... 4151, 4153, &c.
Iron, Phosphate of ............ 4631
Iron Pills, Compound ......... 4916
Iron Plates, Weight of ....... G140
Iron, Polished, to case-harden. 3300
Iron Pyrites ................. 4148
Iron, Pyrophosphate of ........ 4737
Iron Quinia and Strychnia, Sy-
rup of ...................... 4648
Iron Railings, to preserve ---- 3270
Iron Sand for Fire works ...... 2105
Iron, Sheet, Weight of ........ 6141
Iron, Solder for .......... 3512, 3516
Iron Stains, to remove 127, 375, &c.
Iron, Sulphate of ............ , .4146
Iron, Sulphurets of ....... 4053, 4147
Iron, Tannate of .............. 4170
Iron, Test for Galvanized ..... 3758
Iron, Test for, in Solutions ____ 4100
Iron, to case-harden ...... 3297, &c.
Iron, to clean ................. 3272
Iron, to coat, with Copper 3635, &c.
3756.
Iron, to coat, with Silver. 3608, 3610
3715.
Iron, to coat, with Tin. . .3638, &c.
Iron, to coat, with Zinc.. 3649, 3757
Iron, to color ............ 3188, 3313
Iron, to convert, into Steel 3274, 3277
Iron, to distinguish, from Steel. 3260
Iron, to electro-gild on ........ 3731
Iron, to electroplate on ........ 3711
Iron, to galvanize ............. 3649
Iron, to keep, bright .......... 3267
Iron, to prepare, for Coating
with Copper ................ 3756
Iron, to prepare, for Tinning.. 3641
Jron, to prevent, from Rusting 3268
Iron, to remove Rust from ---- 3266
Iron, to solder ........... 3485, 3510
Iron, to tin, for Soldering ..... 3514
Iron, to weld .................. 3523
Iron, Varnish for ............. 2956
Iron Vessels, to tin ........... 3638
Iron, Wine of. ................ 4705
Iron, Wine of. Aromatic ...... 4708
Iron, Wine of, Bitter ____ 4704, 4707
Iron- Ware, White Enamel for. 2403
Iron- Work, Black Varnish for 2900
Iron-Work, Paint for ......... 27G8
Iron-Work, Priming for ..... -. .2747
Iron, Wrought, Weight of. . . .0144
Ironing Clothes, Directions for 503
Irritating Plaster ............. 5062
Irritation, Cazenavo's Lotion to
allay ............. 1153, 1158, &c.
Isinglass Glue .......... 2283, 2292
Isinglass for fining Wines ____ 716
Isinglass, to fmo Wines with 743
Issue Ointment ............... 5284
Italian Method of Bleaching
Wax ....................... 1581
Italian Tamara ............... 1761
Italian Varnish ............... 2896
Itch, Baker's, Remedy for ..... 5484
Itch, Benzine for the .......... 5481
Itch, Cure for the ............. 5480
Itch, Prairie, Remedy for ..... 5479
Itch, Ointment for the.. .4954, 4999
5239, 5243, 5322.
Itch, Seven Years, Remedy for 5479
Ivory, Artificial ......... 8010, 3180
Ivory Black .................. 2719
Ivory, Cement for ............. 2247
Ivory, Etching on ............ 2002
Ivory, Flexible ............... 1994
KEA — LAC
' Ivory, Marking Fluid for 2001 ! Keating's Cough Lozenges 5346
I Tyorv-Si/e 2009 "I7"""«"'" "**"«—KI« /',,,-.,..,.+ tuw i,
| Ivory, to. bleach 1997, <fec.
Ivory, to clean 2007
Ivory, to dye, see COLOR to be dyed.
Ivory, to dye, when softened. .1995
Keene's Marble Cement 2209
Keller's Armenian Cement 2153
Keller's Bronze 3348
Kelp 4208, 4330
Kermes Mineral 5467
Ivory, to gild 2005 j Kerosene, Cause of Explosion
Ivory, to polish 2000
Ivory, to silver 2006
Ivory, to whiten, when Yellow 1998
Ivory Veneers, to glue on 2297
Ivy, Poison, Remedies for 5930
Jackson's Cure for Rheuma-
tism 5538
Jackson's Neuralgia Remedy. .5547
Jackson's Pectoral Syrup. 5265
Jacobson's Red Aniline Dyes.. 2612
Jalap and Senna, Fluid Extract
of 4603
Jalap, Fluid Extract of 4575
Jalap, Tincture of 4559
Jamaica Ginger, Essence of. . .4620
Jamaica Rum, Imitation 702
James' Oil of Gladness 5344
Japan Black Varnish for Lea-
ther 2968, 29G9
Japan Blacking for Boots 3098
Japan, Chinese, Ground for 3039
Japan, Chinese, to raise Figures
on 3042
Japan, Chinese, to trace Designs
on 3041
Japan Dryer 2741
Japan, to color, Blue 3027
Japan, to color, Brown 3036
Japan, to color, Green 3030
Japan, to color, Orange 3031
Japan, to color, Pink 3033
Japan, to color, Purple 3034
Japan, to color, Red 3028
Japan, to color, Violet 3035
Japan, to color, White 3032
Japan, to color, Yellow 3029
Japan, to, Fancy Articles 3043
Japan, to pild 3578
Japan, to, Old Tea-trays 3037
Japan, to, Work Boxes 3043
Japan Varnish 3022, &c.
Japan Varnish, to color.. 3026, <fec.
Japanese Cement 2159
Japanese Firework Mixtures.. 2127
Japanese Ink 2473
Japanese Matches 2126
Japanese Wax, to detect Bees'-
waxin 1583
Japanned Waiters, to clean... 408
Japanning 3018.&C.
Japanning, India or Chinese. .3038
Japanning, to prepare Metal
for 3019
Japanning, to prepare Wood
for.
.3020
Jarave Spanish 5331
Jargonelle Pear, Essential Oil
of ..1470,4302
Jasmin, Esprit Odorant do 1004
Jasmin Pomade 1263
Javelle Water 4787, 6414
Jean Boots, White, to clean. . . 453
Jesuits' Drops 5091, 5338
Jet-Black Dye for Cottons 139
Jet-Blacking for Boots. . .3079, 3089
Jet-Blacking for Harness 3079
Jewelers' Cement 2152, 2229
Jewelers' Rouge 4154
Jockey Club Bouquet 1064
Joint Closers or Caps, Water-
proof 1557
Jonquil Pomade 1263
Joscau^ Copahinc-Mego 5366
Journals of Machinery, Alloy
for 3430
Juices, Vegetable, to obtain. . . 45
Julian Year 6064
Juniper, Compound Spirit of. . .5151
Juniper, Essential Oil of 1465
Juniper-Berry, Oil of 4752
Juniper-Berry Water 1071, 1073
Kalsomino
of.
.1530
Kerosene, Fire Test 1527
Kerosene, to clarify 1528
Kerosene, to decolorize 1529
Kerosene, to keep 6216
Kerosene, to test 1531
Kerosene Lamps, see LAMPS.
Kerosene Vessels, to clean 1537
Ketchups, see CATSUPS.
Kettles, Old Copper, to tin 3646
Kettles, to prevent Crust in. ..6382
Keyer's Process for Purifying
Oils 1511
Kid Boots, to clean 454
Kid Gloves, to clean 439
Kid Gloves, to protect, from
Perspiration 6243
Kid Gloves, to remove Stains
from 438
Kid Gloves, Old, to clean Silks
with 456
Kidneys, Diseased, to cure. . . .5742
Kindlers, Fire, to make.. 6205, 6402
King's Cordial 5227
King's Tooth Paste 1322
Kins-'a Yellow 4356
Kino, Tincture of 4512, 4556
Kino, Tincture of, Compound, .4502
4557.
Kirchoffs Vermilion 2681
Kirkland's Neutral Cerate 5378
Kirkland's Tooth Lotion 1332
Kirschenwnsser 788
Kissingen Water, Aerated 4443
Kitchen Garden Receipts 1819, &c.
Kitchener's Essence of Soup-
herbs 1763
Kitchener's Peristaltic Persua-
der 5173
Kitchener's Sauce Superlative. 1756
Kitridge's Salve 5372
Knife-Handles, to keep, from
Cracking 6323
Knives and Forks, to clean 421
Knives and Forks, to keep, in
Order 422
Knives, to fasten the Handles
on 2221
Knives, toremove Stains from 6322
Knots, various, to tie.
.6260
Knots, to kill, before Pointing. 2777
Knots for tying down Corks... 930
Knots for tying Parcels 6266
Knot, Binding 6263
Knot, Bowline 6265
Knot, Half, or Clove-hitch 6264
Knot, Reef 6262
Knot, Sheet Bend, orW caver's. 6261
Kreatine 4013
Kreatinino 4013
Kriedcr's Ague Pills 5581
Kummel, Doppel 769, 6292
Kurten's Soda Lye 589
Kustitien's Metal for Tinning 3453
Kyanize Wood or Cordage, to .1681
Labarraque's
Fluid .
Disinfecting
Labarrnque's Solution 4768
Labels, Emnnels for 2401
Labels, for Damp Situations.. .6326
Labels, Indestructible Ink for 2526
Labels, Mucilage for 2299, 2301
Labels, Zinc, Ink for 2524
Labor-Saving Soap 616
Lac Scarlet Dye for Woolens.. 200
Lac, to bleach 1723
Lac Water- vnrnish 2940
Lace, Point, to wnsh 478
Lace, Silver or Gold, to clean.. 414
Lace, Thread, to clean 473
Lace, to clear-starch 501
Lace-Veils, Black, to wnsh 466
Laeis-Vc-ilg, White, to clean... 471
Kalsomine, to prepare .."..... '.2734 I Lace, White Silk, 'to wnsh...". 473
Kalsomining. 2795 | Lacquers and Lacquering. 3045, ic.
LAC — LEA
LEA — LEN
LEN— LIN 585
Lacquer, Black, fur Brass 3387
Lacquer, to give any Tint to..3Uti3
LacUtes 3953
L:\ctu to of Iron, Svrup of 4661
Lactic Acid ". 3958
Lactic Acid, to obtain 3959
Lactucarium, Syrup of 4066
Ladies' Summer Suits, towaah.G412
Lahache's Syrup of Iodide of
Potassium and Iron 4663
Lait Virginal 1138
Lakes used for Pigments. .2083, &c.
Lamp, Self-igniting 6389
Lampblack 271"?
Lamp-Chimneys,to prevent, from
Cracking C373
Lamps, Kerosene, Cement for, .C760
Lamps, Kerosene, to cement
Sockets on 1536
Lamps, Kerosene, to clean 15?3
Lamps, Kerosene, to keep, from
getting Greasy 1535
Lamps, Kerosene, to manage.. 1534
Lamps, to purify Vegetable
Oils for 1494
Lancon's Paste for Artificial
Gems 2426
Land, Level, to drain 1891
Land Measure, Government, ..0984
Langlois' Process for Carmine. 2677
Lapis Divinus 529C
Lapis Lazuli, Imitation C440
Lapis Miraculosus 5297
Lard 525, 1518
Lard, Bcnzoated 1521
Lard, to bleach 1522, &c.
Lard, to detect Water in 1520
Lard, to purify 1253
Lard, to trv out 1519
Lard Candles, to make 636
Lard Oil, to detect, in Poppy
Oil ".1498
Lard Ointment 4937
Lardner's Prepared Charcoal. .1294
Lardncr's Tooth Powder 1294
Larkin's Bronzing Fluids 3817
Lartiguc's Gout Pills 519G
Last, English Measure 6041
Lasteyrie's Lithographic Cray-
ons 1958
Laudanum 4529, 5370, 54C8
Laughing Gas 3872, 40CO
Laughing Gas, Test for Pure. .4062
Laughing Gas, to prepare 4061
Laurence's Hemorrhage Solu-
tion 5429
Laurence's Styptic Solution ...5430
Laurent's Antiseptic Soap 1671
Lavender Dye for Cottons 174
Lavender Dye for Silks 260
Lavender, Essence of 973
Lavender, Essential Oil of 1465
Lavender, Essential Oil of, Test
for 1482
Lavender, Oil of 1227
Lavender Pomade 1262
Lavender Water.C89, <tc., 1071, 1073
Lavender Water, Ammoniacal 1098
Lawns, Printed, to preserve the
Colors of 487
Lawns, to destroy Worms in. .1876
Lawns, to kill Moss on 1865
Lead 3253
Lead, Acetate of 4101
Lead, Alloys of 3419, 3426
Lead and Tin Alloys, Melting
Point of 3459
Lead, Carbonate cf 2693
Lead, Chloride of 4102
Lead, Chromatcs of 4104, 4105
Lead, Extract of 4775
Lead, Flux for Soldering. 3482, 3531
Lead for Cisterns, Cautions
about 3254
Lead for Pencils 6197
Lead, Iodide of 4103
Lead, Muriate of 4102
Lead, Nitrate of 4107
Lead, Ointment of 4980
Lead, Oxides of 2744, 4106
Lead Plaster 5043
Lead, Sheet, Weight of 6139
Lead, Solder for 3506
Lead, Tests for, in Solutions .. 4108
Lead, Test for, in Wine. .4402, 4403
Lead, to electro-gild on 3731
Lead, to extract Silver from. . .3210
Lead, to separate Bismuth from 3346
Lead, to separate, from Copper. 3242
Lead, White 2693
Lead, White, to test 2694, &c.
Lead Colic, to cure 5693
Lead Ores, Flux for Reducing 3464
Lead Ores, to test the Richness
of 3255,3256
Lead Pipes, Flux for Soldcring3531
Lead Poisons, Antidotes for. . .5908
Lead Test Paper 4416
Lead Tree, to make a 3257
Lead Water Pipes, to protect. .6224
Leaf Gilding 3579
Leake's Pill of " realth 5189
Leaky Skylights, to stop 6235
Lea's Solution for cleaning Pho-
tographic Glasses 3160
Leather, Blacking f- r 3086, &c.
Leather, Cement for 2245, 2256
Leather, Cement to join, to Gut-
ta-percha 2254
Leather, Compressed C376
Leather, Dubbing for 3078
Leather, GlycerineComposition
for 3073
Leather, Invisible Patches on. 2256
Leather, Japan Black Varnish
for 2968,2969
Leather, Morocco, to tan 643
Leather, Patent, Polish for.... 3072
Leather, Preservation of. .3065, &c.
Leather, Russia, to tan 644
Leather, to cement Metal to. . .0230
Leather, to clean 3076
Leather, to dye 6350. &c.
Leather, to fasten, on Rollers.. 2958
Leather, to join, to Steel, &C...2259
Leather, to make, Waterproof 3069
Leather, to paste, on Wood. . .2276
Leather, to remove Oil from. . .3077
Leather, to remove Oil-stains
from 359
Leather, to restore Softness to. 3067
Leather, to restore the Lustre
of. 3066, 3068
Leather, to silver 3629
Leather Belting, Adhesive for 6232
Leather Book-covers, Marble
for 3107
Leaves, Skeleton, to bleach 6169,6171
Leaves, Skeleton, to prepare.. 6168
6170.
Le Blond's Varnish 2926
Ledoycn's Disinfecting Solutionl703
Leeches, to stop Bleeding from . 5557
5567.
Lee's Antibilious Pills 5175
Lemery's Lute for Stills or Re-
torts 2265
Leghorn Dye for Cottons 158
Le Gros' Itch Ointment 5322
Lemon Beer 899
Lemon, Essence of ... 955
Lemon Essence, Artificial 1051
Lemon Extract 1031
Lemon, Essential Oil of 1465
Lemon, Essential Oil of, to keep
Fragrant 1473
Lemon. Essential Oil of, to re-
store the Fragrance 1472
Lemon Ginger Beer 901
Lemon, Perfumed Oil of 1227
Lemon Soda Nectar 917
Lemon Syrup for Cordials 1375
Lemon Syrup for Soda- Water. 1387
Lemonade, Effervescing.. .906, &c.
Lemonade, Manna 5247
Lemonade, Plain 909
Lemonade, Portable 915
Lemonade Powders 908, 916
Lemon-Color Dye for Cottons. 185
Lemon-Color Dye for Ivory... 1991
Lemon-Juice, Glycerinated 5458
Lemon-Jnicp, Imitation 911, <fcc.
Lemon-Juice, to keep 914
Lenitive Electuary 5154
Le Nonnand's Table Mustard. 178.)
Lenses, Substitutes for 6384
Lenses, Transparent Cement
for 2236
Leopard's Bane, Tincture of. . .4509
Lettuce-Beds, to protect, from
Snails 1862
Leucorrhoea, Remedies for 5725, &c.
Level Sand, to drain 1891
Liard for Lubrication 1543
Libavius' Fuming Liquor 4 124
Lice, Body, to destroy 1920
Lice in Children's Heads, to de-
stroy 1919
Lice, to clear Canary Birds of. 1921
Lice, to clear PonltrV of 1922
Liebig's Extract of Meat 1609
Liebig's Flux 3467
Liebig's Non-poisonous Oil of
Almonds 1512
Liebig's Silvering on Glass 3619
Liefchild's Patent Blue 2617
Life Balsam, Hoffmann's 5112
Life-Root, Fluid Extract of 4602
Light, Statistics of 6122
Lights, Colored 21 12, &c.
Lightning Ink Eraser 6393
Lilac Dye for Cottons 169, 175
Lilac Dye for Feathers 327
Lilac Dye for Silks 262
Lilac Dve for Woolens 212
Lilac Fire 2085, &c.
Lilies, White, Oil of 4752
Lily of tho Valley Bouquet, Im-
itation 1067
Lime 3993
Lime, Acetate of 4244
Lime, Chloride of 4245
Lime, Chlorinated 4245
Lime, Hydrate of 3994
Lime, Hypochlorite of 4245
Lime, Hyposulphite of 4248
Lime, Milk of 1 520
Lime, Muriate of 4246
Lime, Nitrate of 2223
Lime, Oxymuriatc of 4245
Lime, Shell 3994
Lime, Tests for 3995
Lime, to obtain 3994
Lime Water 103, 4760
Lime-juice, Glycerinated 5458
Linden-Flower Water. . . . 1071, 1073
Lineal Measure 5975
Lineal Measure compared with
Metrical 5976, 5977
Lineal Measure, Old French. . .6051
Linen, Holland, Sizing for 6328
Linen, Scorched, to restore... 504
Linen, to bleach 506
Linen, to detect Cotton in 4401
Linen, to detect in Mixed Fab-
rics 296
Linen, to make Starch for 497
Linen, to prepare for Embroi-
dery 6229
Linen, to remove Fruit-stains
from 365, 370
Linen, to remove Ink-stains from 384
Linen, to remove Iron-mould
from 379, 384
Linen, to render, Waterproof. 1561
Liniments 4857, &c
Liniment, Arnica 4864
Liniment, Balsam of Peru 5400
Liniment, Belladonna 4871, 4879
Liniment, Black Oil 4872
Liniment, Cajeput 4890
Liniment, Camphor 4863
Liniment, Camphor, Compound4880
Liniment, Canada 5280
Liniment, Cantharidcs...4874, 4891
Liniment, Chloroform, Com-
pound 4876
Liniment for Chilblains. 58:«i, 5840
Liniment for Horses 4861, 4873,4887
4895, 5222.
Liniment for Scalds and Burns 5472
Liniment for Sprains and Bruis-
es 4887
Liniment for Wounds <8G8
Liniment, Good Snmaritan4858,5283
Liniment, Hemlock 4859
Liniment, Hungarian. .. .48(>7, 5473
Liniment, Hydrochloric Acid. .4875
Liniment, Indian 5223
586 LIN— LIT
Liniment, London 4865
Liniment, Magic 4861
Liniment, Mexican Mustang.. 5221
Liniment, Morphia 4860
Liniment, Mustard, Compound 489:
Liniment, Mustard-oil 489'
Liniment, Neuralgia 5218, 5220
Liniment, Nerve and Bone4893, 5224
Liniment, Opium 4878
Liniment, Petroleum 4 877, 5402, 5836
Liniment, Pile 5219
Liniment, Rheumatic 4884
Liniment, Soap.... 4869, 5443, 6404
Liniment, Stimulating 4888
Liniment, Sulphuric Acid 5399
Liniment Valuable 4866
Liniment, Volatile 488 1
Liniment, Whooping Cough ..5257
Liniment, Wonderful 4895
Linseed Oil, Boiled. : 2727, &c.
Linseed Oil, Tests for 1497
Linseed Oil, to clarify, for Var-
nish 2869
Linseed Oil, to detect 1498
Linseed Oil, to prepare, for Var-
nish 2868
Linseed Oil, Wilk's Refined. . . 2871
Linseed Poultice 5023
Lint, Medicated 5076
Lip Salve, French 1174
Lip Salve, German 1175
Lip Salve, Glycerine 1173
Lip Salve, Peruvian 1170
Lip Salve, Red 1170
Lip Salve, Rose ....1171
Lip Salve, White 1172
Lips, Cacao Pomade for 1136
Lips, Cr6me do Psych6 for 1137
Lips, Pomade Rosat for 1135
Liquation 21
Liquefaction 22
Liqueurs 767, &c.
Liqueur dcla Grande Chartreuse,
806, 6291.
Liquid Blue 4791
Liquid Boot Blacking 3086, &c.
Liquid Colors 2614, &c.
Liquid Colors for Druggists2648,&c.
Liquid ColorsforMaps,&c.,2640,&c.
Liquid Glue 2383, &c.
Liquid Gold 2518, 3195
Liquid Guano 1825
Liquid, Hair-curling 1191
Liquid Mannro 1824
Liquid Measure 5966
Liquid Measure compared with
Apothecaries' 5967
Liquid Measure compared with
Imperial 5968
Liquid Measure compared with
Metrical 5969
Liquid Measure, Imperial 6034
Liquid Measure, Imperial, com-
pared with U. States 6035
Liquid Measure, Imperial, com-
pared with Litres 6036
Liquid Silver 2519
Liquid Spectroscopes 2364
Liquids, Boiling Heat of 6, 6133
Liquids, Statistics of 6138
Liquids, to find the Specific
Gravity of 49
Liquids, to reduce, to a given
Density 6154
Liquor, Bleaching 104
Liquor, Cochineal 106
Liquor, Iron 118
Liquor of Camphor 4611
Liquor of Iodide of Iron 4703
Liquor of Potassa 4784
Liquor of Soda 4785
Liquor, Plumb Ill
Ijqnor, Red 100
Liquorice, Fluid Extract of 4595
Liquors, Flavorings for 664, &c.
Liquors for Shampooing 1189
Liquors, Imitation 663
Liquors, Syrups for 1369
Liquors, white, to blanch 705
Litharge 4106
Litharge, Antidote for 5908
Litharge Plaster 5043
Lithia 3983
LIT— LOT
Lithia, Carbonate of 4238
Lithia, Sulphate of 4239
Lithia, Tests for 3984
Lithia Water, Aerated 4436
Lithographic Crayons 1958
Lithographic Ink 2547, <fcc.
Lithographic Ink, to test 2550
Lithographic Paper 1955, &c.
Litmus Paper 4417, 4418
Litres, Value of, in Cubic Me-
tres 6020
Litres, Value of, in Apotheca-
ries Measure 6023
Litres, Value of, in Dry Mea-
sure 6021
Litres, Value of, in Imperial
Measures 6024, 6025
Litres, Value of, in Liquid Mea-
sure 6022
Live-Long Candy 5260
Liver Complaint, Remedies for . 5697
Liver of Antimony 4128
Liver Spots on the Skin, to re-
move 5885
Lixiviation 23, 3841
Lobelia, Fluid Extract of 4578
Lobelia Poultice 5031
Lobelia, Tincture of 4513
Lobelia Water 4761
Locatelle's Balsam 5306
Lockjaw, to relieve 5771
Log-Lines 6013
Logs, to find the amount of Lum-
ber in 6006
Logs, to prevent, from Splitting 1678
Logwood Blue Dye for Cottons 160
Logwood Lilac Dyes for Cot-
tons 175, <fec.
Logwood, to detect, in Wine . .4405
London Liniment 4865
London Gin, Old Tom, Imita-
tion 698
Long Measure, see LINEAL ME A-
SOUE.
Lotions 4817, &c.
Lotion, Acetate of Lead 4824
Lotion, Alum, Compound 4821
Lotion, Anodyne 4819
Lotion, Antipsoric 4850
Lotion, Arnica 4837
Lotion, Astringent 4820
Lotion, Balm of Gilead 4838
Lotion, Belladonna 4849
Lotion, Bichloride of Mercury. 1145
Lotion, Borax 1156
Lotion, Borax, Glycerinated, -.1157
1162, 5452.
Lotion, Camphorated 4822
Lotion, Camphorated Evapora-
ting 4844
Lotion, Carbolic Acid 4835, 4837
Lotion, Cherry -laurel 1161
Lotion, Chlorate of Potassa... 4856
Lotion, Chloride of Lime 4830
Lotion, Chloride of Potassa 4832
Lotion, Chloride of Soda 4831
Lotion, Counter-irritant 5451
Lotion, Cyanide of Potassium, .1158
1159.
Lotion, Disinfecting 4852
Lotion, Evaporating 4843
Lotion, Galls 4846
Lotion for Galls 4855
Lotion, for Mango 4854
Lotion, Glycerine 1147, <fcc., 4839, &c.
Lotion, Goulard's 4776
Lotion, Gowland's 1155
Lotion, Iodide of Potassium. . .1144
Lotion, Iodine 1143, 4851
Lotion, Mercurial 4847
Lotion, Muriate of Ammonia.. 4826
4827.
Lotion, Muriatic Acid. . .4828, 5398
Lotion, Nitrate of Silver 4829
Lotion, Nitric Acid 4818
Lotion, Preventive 4825
Lotion, Prussic Acid 4833
Lotion, Sulphuretted 4834
Lotion, Tar 4845
Lotion to remove Freckles 1 142
Lotion, Turpentine 540 J
Lotion, Valuable, for Wounds 4853
Lotion, Veratria 5406
LOT — MAH
Lotion, Yellow 4848
Looking-Glasses, see MmitORS.
Lome's Lye Tables 622
Loysel's Paste for Artificial
Gems 2423
Lubricating Oils, to refine 1495
Lubricators for Drills 6273
Lubricators for Hones 6270, 6272
Lubricators for Machineryl539, &c.
Lucifer Matches, Substitute for2149
Ludlam's Specific 5409
Lngol's Iodine Solution 5421
Lumbago 5541
Lumbago, Remedy for 5542
Lunar Caustic 4077
Lunar Caustic, to apply 5080
Lupulin, Fluid Extract of 4579
Lupulin, Oleoresin of 4582
Lupulin, Tincture of.. 4519
Lustre for Brass 3379
Lustre, Metallic, for Pottery.. .2414
Lustre of Metals 3351
Lustre. Starch 6329
Lutes for various purposes,2263, &c.
Lye 23
Lye, Caustic Potash, Table of. 629
Lye, Caustic Soda, Table of. . . 630
Lye, Hard-soap 4785
Lye, Home-made Caustic . . . 548, 550
Lye, Kurten's Caustic Soda. . . 589
Lye, Soapmakers' 519, 588. 610
Lye, Soda, Solution of 4785
Lye, Soft-soap 4784
Lye, Table of Strength of 623
Lye, to test 590, 621
Lye, White, for Washing 483
Macassar Oil 1248
Maceration 39
Maceration, to obtain Tinctures
by 36
Machinery, Alloy for Journals
of A . 3430
Machinery, Lubricators for 1*539, <fcc.
Mackenzie's Solution of Nitrate
of Silver 4802
McKenzie's Ointment 5286
McLean's Neuralgic Liniment. 521 8
McMunn's Elixir of Opium 4735
Madeira Wine, to fine 743
Magendie's Acid Solution of
Veratria 5313
Magenta Dye for Silk or Wool. 314
2575, &c.
Magenta Ink' 2497
Maggots on Roses, to destroy. .1859
Magic Copying Paper 1948
Magic Hair Colorer and Re-
storer 1217
Magic Liniment 4861
Magic Pain-killer 4881
Magic Tooth-paste 1315
Magistery of Bismuth 4135
Magnesia 3990, &c.
Magnesia, Butyrate of 4260
Magnesia, Carbonate of 4240
Magnesia, Citrate of, Solutions
of. ' 4805, 4809, &c.
Magnesia Filter 17
Magnesia, Henry's 5230
Magnesin, Muriate of 4434
Magnesia, Fluid 4434
Magnesia, Sulphate of 4241
Magnesia, Sulphuret of 4242
Magnesia, Test for 3992
Magnesia, to obtain 3991
Magnesienne, Eau 4434
Magnesium, Chloride of 4243
Magnetic Adeps 4949
Magnetic Ointment 4963
Magnetic Pain-killer 5867
Magnets, Horseshoe, to restore 3296
Mahogany, Artificial 2849
Mahogany, Beechwpod 2848
Mahogany, Composition for
Light 2991
Mahogany Stain for Wood 2845, &c.
Mahogany, to clean 2985, 641 1
Mahogany, to darken 2855
Mahogany, to prepare, for Pol-
ishing 2983, &c.
Mnhogany, to remove Ink from. 389
Mahogany, Varnish for. . .2893, S8'.:5
MAH — MAT
MAT — MEG
MEL — MIL 587
Hahy's White-lead Plaster. . . .5044
Malates 39G7
Male Fern, Oil of. 4585
Maleates 3967
Maleic Acid 3967
Malic Acid 3967
Malleability of Metals 3354
Malliorca d'Espagne 701, 805
Mallow Liquid Coloring 2631
Malone's Cough Mixture 52G2
Malt Liquors, Anti-ferments for 764
Malt Liquors, to brew 856, &o.
Malt Liquors, to test, for Clari-
fication 872
Malta, Balsam do 5116
Malva Liquid Coloring 2631
Mandrake, Fluid Extract of. ..4575
Mandrake Mercurial Pills 4D12
Mandrake, Tincture of 4507
Manganate of Baryta 4229
Manganese 4254
Manganese, Borate of 2735
Manganese, Oxide of 4173
Manganese, Phosphate of 4C33
Manganesic Acid 3341
Mange, Lotion for the 4854
Mangoes, Pickled, Imitation ..18041
Manifold Copying 1049
Manifold Copying Paper 1948
Manipulations, Chemical,l,&c., 3830
Mankettrick's Lubricator 1546
Manna Lemonade 5247
Mannite 5247
Manure, Artificial 1826, &c.
Manure, Liquid 1824
Manure, to dissolve Bones for.. 18CO
Maple Syrup 1408
Maps, Colors for 2G40, &c.
Maps, Varnish for.. 2920, 2935, 2938
Maraschino 772, &.C., 801
Maraschino di Zara 804
Marble, Acids injurious to 2045
Marble, Artificial 2032
Marble Cement 2209
Marble, Cement to join. . .21GO, 2180
Marble, to cement Metal to 2231
Marble, to clean 396, &c.
Marble, to dye or stain... 2036, &c.
Marble, to extractoil-stainsfrom394
401.
Marble, to polish 2035
Marble, to remove Ink or Iron-
mould from 402, 514
Marble, to remove Match-stains
from 517
Marble, to remove Stains from. 400
&.C., 514, &c.
Marble Soap 556
Marble-Workers' Cement 2180
Marbled Sealing "Wax 2319
Marbling Books, Method of. ..3102
Marchand's Crimson Fire 2077
Marchand's Green Fire 2081
ManSchal, Eau do 993
Marienbad Purging Salts 4445
Marienbad Water, Aerated . ..4444
Marine Cement 2254
Marine Glue 2201
Marking Fluid for Ivory 2001
Marking-Ink for Linen, &C.25G8, &c.
2532.
Marking-Ink for Packages 2521, <fec.
Marking-Ink, to remove, from
Linen 385, G339
Maroon Dye for Silks 253
Marrow, Factitious G3G7
Marrow Oil 1245
Marseilles Vinegar 5198
Marsh-Mallow Root, Oil of 4752
!Marsh -Plants, to propagate 1883
Marsh's Blue Fire 2074
Marsh's Crimson Fire 2075
Marsh's White Fire 2098
Marsh's Yellow Fire 2100
Martin's Depilatory 1220
Mashing for Brewing 858
Mason's Cement 2181
Massicot 2744
Mastic Cements 2179, 2196, &c.
Mastich French Polish 2998
Mastich Picture Varnish 2911
Mastich Varnish 2912, &c.
Match, Inextinguishable 2061
Match, Quick 2060
Match Stains, to remove from
Marble 517
Match, Slow 2059
Matches, Congrcvc 2146
Matches, Japanese 2126 j Melon Seeds, to prove.
Matches, Mixtures for 2150 • Melting Point of Met;
Matches, Parlor 2146
Matches, Substitute fcr 2149
Matches -without Sulphur 2148
Mathieu's Vermifuge 5245
Matico, Fluid Extract of 4574
Matico Injection. 5435
Mats, Sheepskin, to clean 420
Mats, to prepare Sheepskins for. G47
Matting, Straw, to clean 418
Mauve Dvo for Silk or Wool. . . 315
May Apple Hoot, Fluid Extract
Of. 4575
May Blossom Pomade 12G3
MayaU's Method of cleaning
Photographic Glasses 3185
Mayenco Base for Artificial
Gems 2421
Maycs' Indian Cholagoguo 5396
Mead Wine 733
Meadow-Land, to kill Mosson.l8G6
Measles, Treatment of 5749
Measure, Apothecaries 5956
Measure, Apothecaries, compared
with Apothecaries Weight.. 5962
Measure, Apothecaries, compared
with Avoirdupois 5960
Measure, Apothecaries, compared
with Litres 5959
Measure, Apothecaries, compared
with Troy 59G1
Measure, Cloth 5994
Measure, Cord-wood 5997
Measure, Cubic or Solid 5996
Measure, Dry 5970
Measure, Geographical 6010
Measure, Government Land. . .5084
Measure, Imperial Dry C037
Measure, Imperial Liquid G034
Measure, Imperial Standard . . 0032
Measure, Lineal or Long 5975
Measure, Liquid 5966
Measure, Log or Lumbcr,G003, 6006
Measure, Metrical 6014
Measure, Nautical C010
Measure of Time 6007
Measure, Pendulum 5980
Measure, Shoemakers' 5981
Measure, Square or Superficial, 5982
Measure, Stone and Brick- workGOOO
Measure, Timber 6003, 6006
Measure, Wine 5956
Measures, Foreign GOoG, &c.
Measures, Foreign, compared
with U. States 6055
Measures, Graduated,forFluids5957
Measures, Housekeepers' 6130
Measures, Miscellaneous 5%3
Meat, Liebig's Extract of 1G09
Meat, Paper for preserving 1G14
Meat, to can 1G11
Meat, to cure .
.1G06
Meat, to dry 1599
Meat, to dry-salt 1602
Meat, to keep, fresh 1G12
Meat, to pickle 1G02
Meat, to pickle, red 1G03
Meat, to preserve. . .1605, 1010, 1618
1G32.
Meat, to salt, by Injection 1G04
Meat, to smoko 1GOO
Medals, to bronze 3772, &c.
Medals, to preserve G238
Medals, to take Moulds of. 3G72,3G75
3C84.
Medical Receipts 5478, &c.
Medicated Lint 507G
Medicated Oils 4752
Medicated Soaps.Caution about 57!)
Medicated Waters 4753, &c.
Medicinal Weights, Foreign ..G054
Medicine Bottles, to clean 432
Medicines, to disguise the Tasto
of 5887
Meerschaum, Artificial 2047
Meerschaum, to polish 2046
Mege's Rheumatic Ointment.. 5293
Melilot "Water, to distill.. 1071, 1073
Melisse, Eau do 988
Melon Essence, Artificial 1059
Melon Plants, to kill Thripson.1858
Melon Seeds, to clean 1 864
18G3
;als 6133
Mending, see AUTICLE to bo
mended.
Menstruation, Difficult 5715
Menstruation, Excessive 5714
Menstruation, Irregular 5712
Menstruation, Remedies for... 5716
Menstruation, Suppressed 5713, 5716
Mercurial Lotion 4847
Mercurial Ointment 4947, &c.
Mercurial Pills 4912, 4919
Mercurial Soap 577
Mercury 3324
Mercury, Ammonio-chlorido of 4140
4142.
Mercury, Chlorides of. . . .4138, 4139
Mercury, Fulminating 2134
Mercury, Nitrate of 4144
Mercury, Oxides of 414 1, 4143
Mercury, Sulphuret of 2681, 2682
Mercury, Test for 3325
Mercury, Tests for the Salts of, 4145
Mercury, to purify 3326, &c.
Merino, to preserve tho Colors
of 487
Metal, Expansion 3454
Metals 3186
Metals, Assay of 3187, 3100, 3206
Metals, Black Lacquer for 3064
Metals, Cement to join 2247
Metals, Cement to join, to Glass 2262
Metals, Fluxes for 3471
Metals, Melting Point of 6133
MetaSs, Properties of 334S), 6143
Metals, Solutions for Coloring 3188
3197, 3313.
Metals, to cement Gems to . . .2152
Metals, to cement, to Leather. 2230
Metals, to cement, to Marble,
Stone or Wood 2231
Metals, to gild 3582, &c.
Metals, to prepare, for Japan-
ning.
.3019
Metals, to prevent Corrosion in 3251
Metals, to silver 3632
Metal Letters, to attach, to
Glass 2261
Metallic Freezing Mixture 1690
Metallic Lustres for Pottery. . .2414
Metallic Paint, Varnish for 2894
Metallic Varnish 2953
Metallic Waterproofing Soap. .1562
Meters, Gas, to keep, from
Freezing 6214
Methane 4048
Methyl 4304
Metre, Ofiicial Standard 6015
Metres compared with Lineal
Measure 6017, &c.
Metrical Measure of Capacity. 6020
Metrical Measure of Length . .6016
Metrical Measure of Surface . .6026
Metrical Weights 6027
Metrical Weights andMeasures6014
&c., C052.
MetropolitanDisinfcctingFluidlG93
Mettauer's Aperient Solution. .5272
Mexican Tooth-wash 1326
Mexican Money 6113
Mexican Mustang Liniment. . .5221
Meyer's Water of Life 5448
Mialhc's Aerated Chalybeate
Water 4474
Mialhc's Elixir of Pcpsino 4720
Mialhc's lodurettcd Gaseous
Water 4477
Mialhe's Rational Dentifrice. . .1295
Mialho's Syrup for Hoarseness. 5249
Mice, Bait for 1895
Mice, to drive away 1923
Microscope, Marvels of the 6181
Microscope, to mount Objects
for the G179, &e.
Microscopic Objects, Preserva-
tive Fluids for 1662
Milburn's Mixture 5347
Mildew on Cotton, to remove. . 128
588 MIL— MOH
Mildew on Plants, to remove.. 1B50
Mildew on Trees, to prevent.. 1849
Mildew Spots, to remove.. 381, &c.
Micl, Eaude 1006
Milhau's Emulsion of Cod- Liver
Oil S437
Milk, Asses', Imitation 0289
Milk, Condensed 1597, 5470
Milk, Extract of 5470
Milk of Wax 2936
Milk or Emulsion 43
Milk, Painting in 27G9
Milk Powder 5471
Milk Punch 918
Milk, Syrup of 4G87
Milk, to detect Chalk in 4377
Milk, to detect Water in 4376
Milk, to keep, Sweet 1028
MHk, to preserve 1027
Mill-Picks, to harden 3392
Mill-Picks, to temper 32D1
Millefleur, Bouquet do 1065
Millefleur, Essence of, for Scent-
ing Pomades 1261
Millefleur, Extrait dc 1003
Millefleur, Oilof 1227
Millefleur Pomado 1208
Millefleur Water 1005
Millon's Method of obtaining
Essential Oils 1467
Mills, Spice, to clean 423
Mindererns, Spirit of 5143
Mineral Green 2711
Mineral Substances, to silver. .3026
Mineral Waters, Factitious. . .4430
Mineral Waters, Syrups for. ..1384
Minerals, Weight of G135
Mint, Soda 5397
Mint Vinegar .1771
Mint Water, to distill. ..1071, 1073
Mirbane, Essence of -1322
Mirrors, Amalgam for... 3538, 3545
Mirrors, to clean 417, C330
Mirrors, to repair the Silvering
of 3024, &c.
Mirrors, to silver 3013, <tc.
Mitchell's Ointment of Three.. 5294
Mixed Essential Oils 1243
Mixed Fabrics, to detect Cotton
in 295
Mixed Fabrics, to detect Linen
in 296
Mixed Fabrics, to detect Silk
and Wool in 300
Mixed Fabrics, to dissolve Wool
out of 6413
Mixed Fabrics, to dye 283, &c.
Mixed Pickles 1805
Mixed Scents 1243
Mixture, Antiscrofulous 5774
Mixture, Belladonna C808
Mixture, Brown 5588
Mixture, Camphor 5387
Mixture, Cataract, for the Eye,5808
Mixture, Chalk 4747
Mixture, Chirayta 5192
Mixture, Chlorodyno 5655
Mixture, Cholera 5067, &c.
Mixture, Copaiba 5263, 5735
Mixture, Cough 5202, 5007, 5610, &c.
Mixture, Cyanide of Potassium 52C8
Mixture, Emetic 51C8
Mixture, Fever 5137
Mixture, Freezing 1087, &c.
Mixture, Influenza 5623
Mixture, Intermittent Fever ..5757
Mixture, Iron, Aromatic 4712
Mixture, Iron, Compound 5248
Mixture, Liquorice, Compound 5,"S8
Mixture, Nervous 5572
Mixture, Neutralizing 5666
Mixture, Oil of Wonnsced 5646
Mixture, Quinine 5582, 5j84
Mixture, Saline 4763
Mixture, Shampoo, 1188, &.c.
Mixture, Tonic and Nervine ..5123
Mixture, Tonic Aromatic 5124
Mixture, Washing 480
Mocking Birds, Food for 0190
Modeling Clay G321
Modeling Wax 1590
Mohr's Blue Ink 2482
Mohr's Table of Acetic Acid. .3897
MOI — MOIT
Moiro Bronze ................. 3785
Moire Metallique .............. 3320
Molasses Candy ............... 0280
Molasses Taffy ................ 0282
Moles, to remove .............. 5826
Molinari's Remedy for Sea-sick-
ness ........................ 5339
Molybdenum for Blue Dye ..... 2033
Mouesia, Tincture of. ......... 4500
Money, Austrian .............. 0075
Money, Brazilian .............. 6115
Money, Chinese ............... 6110
Money, East Indian ........... 6112
Money, English ............... 6044
Money, French ............... G053
Money, Mexican .............. 0113
Money, Monte Video ......... 0114
Money, Netherlands .......... GC84
Money, Portuguese ........... CC89
Money, Prussian .............. GC80
Money, Roman, Ancient ...... 0057
Money, Roman, Modern ....... 6079
Money, Russian ............... 6071
Money, Scriptural ............. 0069
Money, Spanish ............... G091
Money, Swedish .............. G096
Money, Swiss ................. 0101
Money, Turkish .............. 0106
Monsel's Styptic Solution ...... 5431
Mont d'Or Water, Aerated ____ 4471
Monte Vkleo, Money of ....... 6114
Monthly Flow, see MENSTRUATION.
Moore's Elixir of Valerianato
of Ammonia ................ 4734
Moore's Extract of Black Co-
hosh ................... 4502,4750
Moore's Fluid Extract of Van-
illa ................ . ........ 4607
Moore's Syrup of Tar ......... 4069
Mordants .................. C3, 2634
Mordant-Brown Dye for Cot-
tons ........................ 143
Mordant's for Aniline Colors.. 2503
2568.
Mordant Varnish ............. 2919
Moreens, to clean ............. 448
MorellaWine ................. 728
Morfit's Dentifrice ............ 1298
Morfit's Hair-tonic ............ 1180
Morocco Leather, to restore. . .30G8
Morocco Leather, to tan ....... 643
Morphia ...................... 3997
Morphia, Acetate of ........... 4267
Morphia Collodion ............ 4745
Morphia Liniment ............ 4860
Morphia, Percentage of, in
Opium ...................... 3998
Morphine, sec MoiiruiA.
Morrison's Pills ............... 5327
Mortars, Wedgwood, to clean. (1346
Morton's Copaiba Mixture . . . .5264
Morvcau's Reducing Flux ..... 34G3
Mosaic Gold ........ 3348, 3425, G3G2
Mosaic Silver ................. G3G1
Mosquitoes, to clear ar.oomof.1017
Mosquitoes, to keep away ..... 1018
Moss Meal for Birds .......... 6190
Moss on Fruit Trees, to destroy 1860
Moss on Gravel Walks, to re-
move ....................... 1861
Moss on Lawns, to kill ........ 1CG5
Moss on Meadow Land, to Idil.lGGG
Moth, to keep, from Clothing. . C54
Mother of Pearl, to polish ..... 2C03
Mother's Cordial .............. 53~4
Mottled Soap Balb ............ 570
Mould Candles, to make ....... 033
Mouldiness, to prevent (sec also
ARTICLK to be kept from)". . . .6380
Mouldings for Rooms, Stuff for. 22CO
Moulds, Composition for ...... 3G84
Moulds, Copper, Coating far . .3073
Moulds, Copper .......... 3072, 3G80
Moulds, Elastic ............... 3GS5
Moulds, Fusiblc-nllcy ......... 3679
Moulds, Gutta Percha ......... 3G81
Moulds, Metal, to uso ......... 3690
Moulds of Figures, to take ____ 3G8G
Moulds, Paste ................. 3683
Moulds, Plaster ............... 3077
Moulds, Precautions in Electro-
typing ...................... 3691
oulds, Prepared Wax for ____ 3674
Mou
MOtr — MTR
Moulds, to coat, with Metal 3G89
Moulds, to prepare, for Electro-
typing 3689, 3690
Moulds, Wax 3675, 3682
Mousseline do Laine Dresses, to
wash 485
Mousseline de Laine, to preserve
the Colors of 487
Moustache Pomade 1287
Moutardo h 1'Estragon 1787
Moutardo Superbe 1 788
Mouth Glue 2307
Mouth Washes 1323
Moxon's Case-hardening 3299
Mucilage for Labels 2301
Mucilage for Oiace use 2299
Mucilage for Polished Surfaces 2309
Mucilage for Soda Water Bot-
tles 2302
Mucilage Gargle 5070
Mucilage, Gum-arabic 2304
Mucilage, Postage-stamp 2300
Mucilage, Quince 1154
Mucilage, to prevent, from
Moulding 2305
Mucilage, Tragacanth 2310
Mucilaginous Fermentation... 16
Mudar Bark, Oil of. 4752
Mulberry and Apple Wine 728
Mulberry Wine 728
Mulder's Colorless Drying Oil. .2731
Mulled Wine with Eggs 927
Mumps, Treatment of 5629
Munro's Courrh Medicine 5233
Muntz's Metal 3348
Murexidc 4224
Muriates 3882
Muriate of Ammonia 4222
Muriate of Ammonia, Lotion of 4826
Muriate of Baryta 4234
Muriate of Iron 41G5, 4166
Muriate of Lead 4102
Muriate of Lime >.. .4246
Muriate of Magnesia 4243
Muriate of Nickel 4174
Muriate of Tin 4123, 4124
Muriatcd Photographic Paper . 3170
Muriatic Acid 3682, <fcc., 4068
Muriatic Acid, Commercial . . . 3883
Muriatic Acid, Dilute 3885
Muriatic Acid Liniment 4875
Muriatic Acid Lotion 4828, 5398
Muriatic Acid, Pure 3884
Muriatic Acid, Table of Percen-
tages of 3886
Muriatic Acid, Tests for 3887
Muriatic Acid, to obtain 3883
Muriatic Acid, to purify 3888
Murphy's Carminative 5388
Murray's Fluid Magnesia 4434
Mushroom Catsup 1767
Mushrooms, Pickled 1802
Mushrooms, Poisonous, Anti-
dotes for 5914
Mushrooms, to test 4387
Musical Instruments, to stain . .2858
Musk and Ambergris, Oil of. . .1237
Musk, Essence of 95fi, &c.
Musk, Oil of 1227, 1228, 1236
Musk Soap 571
Musk, Tincture of 1025
Musk, to restore the Odor of. . . 1354
Musk, to test 4390
Musk Seed, Essence of 968
Muskrat Skins, to tan 648
Muskrats,1 to ca:ch 1896
Muslin, Colored, to wash. . .486, 490
Muslin, to coat, with Metal 3738
Muslin, to starch 500
Muslin, to thicken and strength-
en 6236
Mustard, Essential Oil of 1465
Mustard for Table Use 1784, &c.
Mustard Liniment 4892, 4894
Mustard Plaster 5057
Mustard Plaster, Homoeopathic 5056
Mustard Poultice 5021
Mustiness in Beer, to remedy . . 877
Mustiness in Wine, to remove. 758
Mutton Suet 524
Mynsicht's Elixir of Vitriol. . . .4731
Myrrh and Aloes Pills 4902
Myrrh and Borax Mouth-wash . 1333
MYR — NIT
NIT — OH
OIL — OIL
Myrrh, Fluid Extract of 4579
Myrrh, Tincture of 4560
Myrrh Tooth-wash 1332
Myrrhine, George's 5377
Myrtle Blossom Pomade 1263
Myrtle Cuttings, to manage - . . 1831
Myrtle, Essence of, Imitation . .1068
Nagel's Cobalt-electroplating. .3766
Nagel's Nickel-electroplating. .3763
Nans, Finger, Treatment of!.. 5823
Nails, Iron, for Wall-trees 1885
Nails, Number of. to the Pound 6146
Nails, Toe. Treatment of. 5827, &.c.
Nankeen Dye for Cottons 136
Nankeen Dye for Silks 269
Nap. to raise the, on Cloth 461
Naphtha 1527
Naples Water 4465
Naples Yellow 12709
Napoleon-Blue Dye for Cottons 132
Napoleon's Pectoral Pills 5253
Narcissus Pomade 1263
Narcotic Glycerole 5016
Narcotine 3999
Nasturtiums, Pickled 1801
Nautical Measure 6010
Nautical Time 6011
Neats-Foot Oil 1513
Neats-Foot Oil, to refine 1514
Neats-Foot Oil, to test 1493
Neck, Stiff, Cure for 5640
Nectar Cream Syrup 1434
Nectar Lemon Soda 917
Nectar Syrup 1419, <fcc.
Nelson's Patent Gelatine 4368
Neroli, Essence of 961
Neroli, Oil of 1227
Neroli, Oil of, Test for 1483
Nerve and Bone Liniment4893,5224
Nerve Powder 5571
Nervines 55(19, &c.
Nervine Balsam 5113, 5340
Nervine Mixture 5123
Nervous Headache, to cure 5704, &c.
Nervous Mixture 5572
Nervous Pill 5573
Nervous Tincture 5574
Nervousness, Treatment of 5570
Netherlands, Money of the 6084
Netherlands, Weights and Mea-
sures of the 6085, &c.
Neuralgia, Liniment for. .4858,5218
5220.
Neuralgia, Ointment for. 4979, 4982
Neuralgia, Remedies for. .5544, &c.
Neuralgia, Wine for 5408
Neutral Solution 29
Neutralization 3846
Neutralizing Cordial 5394,5424
Neutralizing Mixture 566'i
New England Rum, to distill.. 931
New England Rum, Yeast for. 932
Newell's Compound Tar Oint-
ment 5288
New York Pills 5300
Nicholson's Blue Aniline Dye. .2606
Nickel 3323
Nickel, Alloys of 3410, &c., 3439
Nickel, Chloride or Muriate of. 41 74
Nickel, Oxalate of 4178
Nickel, Oxide of 4175, <fec.
Nickel, Salts of, Test for 4179
Nickel Silver 3348
Nickel, Sulphate of 4177
Nickel, to coat Metal with 3659
Nickel, to electroplate with 3762
Nicotine or Nicotia 4019
Night, to find the Length of the 6153
Nightmare.Precautions against 5784
Nightmare, to prevent 5785
Nightshade Leaves, Oil of 4752
Nightsweats, Remedy for 5787
Nights weats, to relieve.. 5788, &c.
Nimmo's Solution of Croton 0115413
Ninon de 1'Inclos, Pomade de.1163
Nipples, Sore, Lotion for 1 156
Nipples, Sore, Ointment for . . .4985
Nipples, Sore, tocure 5730
Nipple Wash 5393
Nitrates 3872
Nitrate of Baryta 4230
Nitrate of Baryta Solution 4782
Nitrate of Bismnth 4134, 41 35
Nitrate of Cobalt 4250
Nitrate of Copper 4091
Nitrate of Copper Solution 97
Nitrate of Iron 116, 4171, 4172
Nitrate of Lead 4107
Nitrate of Lime 2223
Nitrate of Mercury 4144
Nitrate of Mercury, Glycerina-
ted 5012
Nitrate of Potassa 4194
Nitrate of Silver 4077
Nitrate of Silver, Lotion of 4829
Nitrate of Silver, Antidotes for 5905
Nitrate of Silver, Caustic, to ap-
ply 5080
Nitrate of Silver from Silver Al-
loy 4080
Nitrate of Silver Solution . 4783,4802
Nitrate of Silver Stains, to re-
move 3141, 6339
Nitrate of Tin 4121
Nitrate of Urea 4323, 4324
Nitrated Photographic Paper. .3169
Nitre 4194
Nitre, Sweet Spirit of 4289
Nitre, to purify 4195
Nitric Acid 3872
Nitric Acid, Dilute 3876
Nitric Acid, Fuming 3877
Nitric Acid, Lotion of 4818
Nitric Acid, Table of Percen-
tage of 3878
Nitric Acid, Tests for 3875
Nitric Acid, Tests for, in Sul-
phuric Acid 3861
Nitric Acid, to obtain 3873
Nitric Acid, to purify 3874
Nitric Acid, to remove, from
Sulphuric Acid 3862
Nitric Ether 4287
Nitric Oxide 3872
Nitrite of Potassa 4189
Nitro-Benzole 4322
Nitrogen 4057
Nitrogen, Protoxide of 4060
Nitrogen, Test for 4058
Nitrogen, to obtain 4059
Nitro-Glycerine 2142, 2143
Nitromuriates 3879
Nitromuriate of Platinum 3220
Nitromuriatic Acid 3879
Nitromuriatic Acid, Dilute 3881
Nitroprusside of Sodium 4217
I Nitrosulphuric Acid 3871
1 Nitrous Acid 3877
Nitrous Ether 4288
Nitrous Oxide 3872, 4060
Noble's Tonic Elixir 5407
Nocturnal Emissions, to cure. .5739
5746.
Nomenclature, Chemical 3853
Nonpareil Bitters 824
Norrthausen Sulphuric Acid. . .3858
Normandy's Alkalimeter 83
Norris' Soda Mint 5397
Norwood's Tincture of Helle-
bore 4515
Nose, Bleeding from the, to stop 5565
Novargent 3602
Number Six, Thompson's 5177
Nuremberg Plaster 5383
Nut-Galls, see GALLS.
Nut-Oil, Frencli, to detect 1498,1499
Nut-Oil. India, Tests for 1497
Nutmeg, Extract of 1037
Nutmeg, Tincture of 1015
Nutmeg, Oil of 1227
Nutritive Wine 4723
Nux Vomica, Antidotes for 5912
Nus Vomica, Tincture of 4520
Oak, Poison, Remedies for 5930.&C.
Ochre 2702
Odontine 3313, 1314
I Odoriferous Water 1070
| (Enanthic Ether 4296
; fEnanthylate of Ethyl 4296
Ogden 's Chlorodyne 5201
\ Oil, Black 4872
Oil-Blacking for Boots, &c.,3087,&c.
Oil, Boiled, for Drying 2726, &c.
Oil, Boiled, for Varnish 2872
Oil, British 5361
Oil, Camphorated 4863
Oil, Carron 5513
Oil, Castor, to purify and sweet-
en 1503
Oil, Castor, to test 1501
Oil-Cloths, to clean 425
Oil-Cloths, to keep, in order 424
Oil, Coal, Crude, See PETROLEUM.
Oil, Coal, Refined, See KEROSENE.
Oil, Cocoa-nut 527
Oil Colors, to mix 2761
Oil, Cotton-seed, to bleach 1510
Oil, Drying 2726, &.o.
Oil for Incipient Baldness 1251
Oil Gilding 3570, 3581
Oil, Green 5385
Oil, Kerosene, see KEROSENE OIL.
Oil, Neats-foot 1513
Oil, Neats-foot, to refine 1514
Oil of Aloes 1465
Oil of Almonds.Non-poisonous 1512
Oil of Ambergris 1227, 1240
Oil of Ambergris and Musk . . .1237
Oil of Anise 1465
Oil of Apple 1469, 4303
Oil of Balsam Apple 4752
Oil of Balsam of Peru 1241
OilofBark 46
Oil of Belladonna 4752
Oil of Benzoin 1242
Oil of Bergainot 1227
Oil of Bergamot, Test for 1480
Oil of Bergnmot Pear 4302
Oil of Bitter Almonds 1465
Oil of Bitter Almonds, Facti-
tious 4322
Oil of Bitter Almonds, Non-poi-
sonous 1512
Oil of Bitter Almonds, Test for 1479
Oil of Brown Paper 5522
Oil of Calamus 1465
Oil of Cantharides 4752
Oil of Capsicum 4752
Oil of Caraway 1465
Oil of Cassia 1227
OilofChamomilo 4752
Oil of Cinnamon 1227, 1465
Oil of Cinnamon, Test for 1481
Oil of Civet 1228
Oil of Cloves 1227, 1465
Oil of Cloves, Test for 1485
Oil of Cognac 1468
Oil of Cognac, Test for 677
Oil of Elder-flowers 4752
Oil of Fcunel 1465
Oil of Fenugreek 4752
Oil of Foxglove 4752
Oil of Garlic 4752
Oil of Gladness 5344
Oil of Hemlock (Conium) 4752
Oil of Henbane 4752
Oil of Henbane, Imitation 5385
Oil of Horsemint 1465
Oil of Jargonelle Pear, Facti-
tious 1470, 4302
Oil of Juniper Berries... 1465, 4752
Oil of Lavender 1227, 1465
Oil of Lavender, Test for 1482
Oil of Lemon 1227, 1465
Oil of Lemon, to keep 1473
Oil of Lemon, to restore 1472
Oil of Lilies, White 4752
Oil of Male-fern 4585
Oil of Marsh-mallow Root 4752
Oil of Milleflpiir 1227
Oil of Mudar Bark 4752
Oil of Musk 1227,1236
Oil of Mustard 1465
Oil of Neroli 1227
Oil of Neroli, Test for 1483
Oil of Nightshade Leaves 4752
Oil of Niitmeg 1227
Oil of Opium 4752
Oil of Orange Flowers 1227
Oil of Origanum .1465
Oil of Pear, Factitious . . . 1470, 4302
Oil of Pellitory Root 4752
Oil of Pennyroyal 1465
Oil of Pepper 4752
Oil of Peppermint 1465
Oil of Pimento 1465
Oil of Pineapple 4293
OIL — OIN
59O
Oil cf Poison-Oak Leaves 4752
Oil cf Quince, Factitious. 1471, 4290
Oil of Rhodium-wood 1465
Oil of Rose 1227, 1329, 4752
Oil of Rose, Test for 1484
Oil of Rue 4752
Oil of St. John's Wort 4752
Oil of Sandal-wood 14G5
Oil of Sassafras 14C5
Oil of Savinc 14G5
Oil of Spearmint 14G5
Oil of Spike, Factitious 4873
Oil of Stone 5301, 53G2
Oil of Storax or Sty rax 1238
Oil of Tobacco 14G5, 4752
Oil cf Turpentine 4317
OH cf Turpentine for bleaching 510
Oil of Valerian 1405
Oil of Vanilla 1239, 1247
Oil of Vitriol 3855
Oil cf Wormsccd Mixture 5646
Oil, Olive, to refine 1502, 1551
Oil, Olive, to test 1500
Oil-Paint Stains, to remove 339
Oil Paintings, to clean 4C6, &c.
Oil Paintings, to preserve 6375
Oil Paintings, to remove tho
Varnish from 405
Oil Paintings, to restore 0375
Oil Paintings, Varnishfcr 2914, 2930
Oil, Palm 528
Oil, Palm, to bleach 537, 1509
Oil, Phosphorescent 4339
Oil Size for Gilding 3571, 3580
Oil-Stains, to remove, from
Boards 394
Oil-Stains, to remove, from Car-
pets 357
Oil-Stains, to remove, from Cot-
tons 126
Oil-Stains, to rcrnove,from Leath-
er 359
Oil-Stains, to remove, from Mar-
ble 394
Oil-Stains, to remove, from Pa-
per 359
Oil Stones, sec HONKS.
Oil, to take, out of Leather 3077
Oil, Trotter 151:)
Oil, Trotter, to refine 1514
Oil Varnishes..... 2874, &c.
Oil, Vermifuge 5G43
Oil, Watchmakers' J549, &c.
Oil, "Whale, to deodorize Putrid 1488
Oiled Paper 1930, &c.
Oils, Essential, sec ESSENTIAL OILS.
Oils, Hair, sec HAIIJ OIL.
Oils, Lubricating, to refine 1495
Oils, Medicated 4752
Oils, Pcrfnmcd 1226, &o.
Oils, Perfumed by Enticuragc..l229
Oils, Perfumed by Essences 1227
Oils, Perfumed by Infusion 1228
Oils, Rancid, to restore.. .1489, &c.
Oils, Rancidity in, to prevent.. 1401
Oils, Scented 122G
Oils, Tests fcr 1 496, &c.
Oils, to bleach 1504, &c.
Oils, to detect Admixture in.. .1477
1478.
Oils, Vegetable, to bleach. 1504, &c.
Oils, Volatile, see ESSENTIAL OILS.
Ointments 41)01, &c.
Ointments, to keep, from getting
Rancid 50C8
Ointment, Aconitinc 4984
Ointment, Ammoniacd.. 4944, 5477
Ointment, Astringent 497C
Ointment, Basilicon 4964
Ointment, Belladonna 4043, 4983
Ointment, Bitter-sweet 4977
Ointment, Black Basilicon 4DGO
Ointment, Borax 4951, 4'J52
Ointment, Brown 4'J5'J
Ointment, Camphor 4941, 5403
Ointment, Cancer 53SG
Or.itmcnt, Canthnridcs.. .5010, 5017
Ointment, Catechu 4945
Ointment, Chloroform 4C82
Ointment, Citrine 4947
Ointment, Cod-liver Oil 4975
Ointment, Creosote 4!>53, f-404
Ointment, Croton Oil 5702
Ointment, Cucumber .r>OCO
Ointment. Egyptian 5005
Ointment for Baker's Itch 4957
Ointment for Chilblains 4934
Ointment for Cracked-hoof 5002
Ointment for Foot-rot 5G01
Ointment for Issue 5284
Ointment for Itch. . .4954, 4999, 5239
5243, 5322.
Ointment for Neuralgia . .4979, 4982
Ointment for Old Sores 4976
Ointment for Piles 4986, &c.
Ointment for Salt Rheum 4962
Ointment for Sore Nipples 4985
Ointment for Vermin 5395
Ointment, Fuligokali 5380
Ointment, Gall, Compound 5006
Ointment, Glycerine 5009
Ointment, Green 4974
Ointment, Green Basilicon 4967
Ointment, Iodide of Lead 4991
Ointment, Iodide of Potassium . 501 3
Ointment, Iodide of Sulphur . .4950
Ointment, Iodine, Compound. .4942
Ointment, Iodine, Glycerinated 5015
Ointment, lodoform 4992
Ointment, Lard 4937
Ointment, Lead 4980
Ointment, Magnetic 4963
Ointment, Mercurial 4947, 5011
Ointment, Narcotic 5016
Ointment, Nitrate of Mercury .5012
Ointment, Obstetric 5341
Ointment of "Three" 5294
Ointment, Petroleum 5014
Ointment, Resin 4964
Ointment, Rheumatic 5293
Ointment, Savinc 4938
Ointment, Spermaceti 4940
Ointment, Starch, Glycerinatcd5C09
Ointment. Stavesacre 4956
Ointment, Stramonium 494G
Ointment, Sulphur 4908
Ointment, TannatcofMagnesia49!)4
Ointment, Tannin 4'J8(>
Ointment, Tar 4960, 5280
Ointment, Tcrtar-cmctic 4995
Ointment, Tobacco. .4CG I, 5290, &e.
Ointment, Venice Turpentine.. 4958
Ointment, Vermin 5395
Ointment, Wax 4939
Ointment, Wonderful 4895
Ointment, Ycllovr Basilicon ^'JG5
Ointment, Zinc 4981
Old Tom Gin, Imitation C98
Olefiant Gas 4051
Oleinc 1 550
Olcorcsius 457:5, 4579, &c.
Oleorcsin cf Elack Pepper 4583
Oleorcsin cf Capsicum 4580
Oleoresin cf Cubcbs 4581
Oleorcsin of Ginger 4584
Oleorcsin cf Lupulin 4582
Oleoresin of Malo Fern 4585
Olive-Drab Dvc fcr Cottons 178
Olive-Dye fcr'Cottons 166, &c.
Olive-Dye for Silks £81
Olive-Dye for Woolens 209, 228
Olivc-Enamcla 2384
Olive-Oil Soft-socp 605
Olive-Oil, Test fcr 1408, 1500
Olive-Oil, to rcfir.c K02
Onions as a Disinfectant 1706
Onions, Pickled 1794
Onions, to correct tho Odor of,
in the Breath 5864
Onions, to preserve 1888
Onions, to prevent Grub in 1856
Opal, Imitation 2431
Opiate Tooth-paste 1320
Opiated Wine of Colchicum . . .5389
Opium 4268
Opium, Antidotca fcr 5909
Opium, Elixir cf 4735
Opium Liniment 4878
Opium, Oil cf 4752
Opium, Percentage of Morphine
.3998
Opium Pills 4914
Opium, Solution cf 5412
Opium, Substitute fcr 51 32
Opium, Tests for 4269, 4270
Opium, Tincture of 4529
OPI — OXI
Opium, Tincture of, Ammonia-
ted 4530
Opium, Tincture of, Camphora-
ted 4527
Opium, Tincture cf, Compound 4531
Opodeldoc 46G9, 4870, 5443, &e. C404
Optical Glass 2352
Optician's Cement 2229
Ormolu 3425
Orangeade 910
Orange Aniline Dye 25SG
Orange Bitters ..." 831
Orangc-Blossom, Essence of... 9G1
Orange-Blossom Pomade 12.62
Orange-Chrome 2707
Orange-Color Bronzing 3784
Orange-Color Dye for Cottons. 159
Orange-Color Dye for Silks 271
Orange-Color Dye for "Wood. . .2835
Orange-Color Dye for Woolens. 203
Orange-Color Hair Oil 1234
Orange Enamels 2385
Orange Essence 951
Orange Essence, Artificial 1053
Orange Extract 1032
Orange Fire 2C89
Orange-Flower, Oil of 1227
Orange-Flower Pomade 12G3
Orange-Flo-wer Soap 572
Orange-Flower Syrup 1417
Orange-Flower "Water... 1009, 1071
1073.
Orange Juice, Imitation 913
Orange-Marble for Books. 3116,3121
Orangc-Pcel, Essence of 951
Orangc-Peel Flavoring 6G7
Orangc-Pcel Syrup 1382
Orange Tint for Brass 3383
Orange Tonic 5122
Orange Syrup 1410
Ores, Flux for Reducing 3464
Ores, Lead, to test the Rich-
ness of ' 3255
Ores, Iron, to test the Richness
of 3259
Organic Matter, Test for 4395
Orgeat Syrup 137G, 1415
Orgeat Syrup, Imitation 1416
Origanum, Esscnti::! Oil cf 1465
Ornaments, Composition for. . .2202
Oroide 3431
Orris, Essence of 949
Orris Powder 1101
Orris Tooth-paste 1 321
Orris-Root Flavoring 669
Orris- Root, Fluid Extract cf. . .4579
Orris-Root Pomade 3 262
Osborne's Syrup 4657
Osgood's Indian Cholagoguc,
Substitute for £396
Ostrich Feathers, to clean C55
Ottawa Root Beer &'2
Otto of Roses 975
Over-Shoes, eo mend C374
Oxacids 4034
Oxalatcs oDCO
Oxalatcof Iron 4158
Oxalate of Nickel 4178
Oxalic Acid 3000
Oxalic Acid, Pure 3903
Oxalic Acid, to distinguish,
from Epsom Salts 3904
Oxalic Acid, to obtain 3901
Ox-Gall for removing Spots 373
Ox-Gall for Washing 489
Ox-Gall Soap 552
Ox-Gall, to refine 441
Oxide, Carbonic 4064
Oxide, Nitric 3872
Oxide, Nitrous "872,4060
Oxide of Antimony 4130
Oxide of Barium 4235, 4236
Oxide of Bismuth 4136
Oxide of Chromium 2701
Oxide of Cobalt 4250
Oxide of Copper 4092, 4094, 4095
Oxide of Ethyl 4279
Oxide of Iron 4151, 4153, &c.
Oxide of Iron, Testsfor Solutions
of 4152,4157
Oxide of Lead 2744, 4 1 06
Oxide of Manganese 4173, 4255
Oxide of Mercury 4141, 4143
OX I — PAP
PAR — PEA
591
Oxide of Nickel 4175, 4176
Oxide of Nitrogen 4060
Oxide of Silver 4078
Oxide of Tin 4119, &c.
Oxide of Zinc 4117
Oxley's Essence of Ginger 4620
Oxygen 4034
Oxygen, to obtain 4033
Oxygen for Inhalation 4038
Oxygen, Tests for 4040
Oxygen, to obtain 4035, &c.
Oxymel 4G90, &c.
Oxymel of Squills 4092
Oxymel, Simple 4691
Oxymuriate of Lime 4245
Oxysulphuret of Antimony 5467
Pain-Killer....4881, 4882, 5410, 5867
Pains after Child-birth 5722
Paint, Fireproof 2772
Paint, Flexible, for Canvas 2765
Paint for Boat-bottoms 2771
Paint for Boilers 2774
Paint for Iron-work 2768
Paint for Old Houses 2773
Paint for Out-door Work. 2766, &c.
Paint for the Skin 1107
Paint for Weatherboards 2771
Paint, Table for Mixing.. .2761, &c.
Paint, to clean 435
Paint Stains, to remove from
Clothes 339, <tc.
Paint, Sticky, to harden 2779
Paint, to economize 2781
Paint, to make, dry quickly . . .2743
Paint, to remove, from Old
Work 2787
Paint, to remove, from Stone.. 278J
Paint, to remove, from Wood. .2788
Paint, to remove the Smell of. .2776
Paint, Varnished, to clean 436
Paint, when to Apply 2755
Paint without Oil or Lead 2770
Paint-Cans, to clean 2791
Paint-Skins, to reduce 2775
Painters, Caution to 5539
Painters' Colic, to cure 0693
Painters' Putty 2242
Painters' Size 2757
Painting, House 2745, &c.
Painting iu Milk 2769
Painting, to kill Grease-spots
before 2778
Painting, to kill Knots before. .2777
Painting, to prepare Walls for. 2763
2780.
Paintings, sec OIL PAINTINGS.
Pakfong 3412, 3415
Palatine-Orange Aniline Dye. .2596
Palladium, Electroplating with 3761
Palm Oil 528
Palm Oil, to bleach 537, 151)9
Palm Oil Soap 543
Palm Soap 567
Palma Christi Pomade .'. . 127C
Palpitation of the Heart, to re-
lieve 576G
Paneoast's Alterative Pills 5106
Pancoast's Styptic 5558
Paper, Albumeuized Photo-
graphic 3132, 3178
Paper, Atropino 5807
Paper, Bromide Photographic. 31 72
Paper, Calotype 3176
Paper, Chromatypc 3173
Paper, Copying 1948
Paper, Crysotype 317 j
Paper, Cyanotypo 3174
Paper, Drawing, Sizes of G131
Paper, Emery 193.)
Paper, Fancy, Cement for 2159
Paper, Fireproof 1041, &.c.
Paper for producing Flashes of
Colored Light 2125
Paper, Glass, for Polishing 1933
Paper, Hydrographio 197G
Paper, Iodized Photographic ..3171
Paper, Iridescent 1931
Paper, Lithographic 1955, &c.
Paper, Muriated Photographic 3170
Paper, Nitrated Photographic 3169
Paper, Oiled 1939
Paper, Parchment 1965
Paper, Parchment, to paste 1966
Paper, Phenyl 1936
Paper, Photographic 3168, 3177
Paper, Prepared 1925, &c.
Paper, Printed, to clean 1973
Paper, Soiled, to clean 6398, &c.
Paper, Solvent for 1937
Paper, Stone, for Polishing 1934
Paper, Styptic 5561
Paper, Tapioca Photographic .3157
Paper, Test 4408, &c.
Paper, to bronze 3793
Paper, to detect Arsenic in 4383
Paper, to detect Plaster in 1946
Paper, to detect Wood in 1947
Paper, to Electrotype, &c., on. 3738
Paper, to extract Sizing from. .6403
Paper, to gild on. . . .3574, 3579, 3738
Paper, to prepare, for Photo-
graphy 3131, &.C., 3177
Paper, to prepare, for Varnish-
ing 1951
Paper, to remove Grease from. 411
Paper, to remove Water-stains
from 6398
Paper, to silver 3628, 3738
Paper, to size 1952
Paper, to take Creases out of . .1963
Paper, to transfer Engravings
to 1974
Paper, to unroll and flatten 6397
Paper, to varnish 2965
Paper, to write on Greasy 2506
Paper, Touch, for Fireworks. .2059
Paper, Tracing 1927, &.c.
Paper, Transfer 1926
Paper, Transparent 1929
Paper, Waterproof 1941, 1944
Paper, Waxed 1938
Paper, Waxed Photographic ..3179
Paper-Hangers' Paste 2272
Paper-Hanging 2810, &c.
Paper-Hanging, Glue-sizing for 2815
Paper-Hanging on Whitewashed
Walls 2808
Paper- Hanging. Paste for 2812
Paper- Hanging, to prepare
Walls for 2811
Paper-Hanging, Utensils for. . .2812
Paper-Hanging, Varnish for... 2938
Paper-Hangings, to clean 409
Paper-Hangings, to remove
Grease from 410
Paper, Wall, to apply 2814
Paper, Wall, to prepare, for
Hanging 2813
Papier Epispastique do Veo . . . 5238
Papier Fayard 5237
Papier Fayard et Blayn 5236
Papier Mach6 1945
Papier Mach6, to clean 415
Papier Saxe 3130
Papyrine 1968
Paralfa'ne 1527
Parallelograms, Areas of 5989
Paramalic Acid 3967
Paramorphino 4001
Parcel, How to tic a 6266
Parchment, Artificial 1965
Parchment Paper 1965, &c.
Parchment Paper, to paste 1966
Parchment Size 3559
Parchment, to color 1969
Parchment, to gikl on 3579
Parchment to make, transpar-
ent .1:6-1
Parchment, to write on 2506
Paregoric 4527, 4528
Parcira, Fluid Extract of 4606
Pareira Brava, Decoction of. .5310
Parent's Method of Preserving
Wines 761
Par
Par
Par
Par
Par
Par
s' Fumigating Pastils 1333
RoumfSoap 596
s Tablet Soap 595
sel's Citrate of Magnesia. .4806
sian Diamonds 2444
sian Wash to darken the
Hair 1183
Parker's Cement 2210
Parlor Matches 2146
Parrish's Aloes and Mandrake
Pills 5191
Parrish's Cathartic Pills 5317
Parrish's Chemical Food 4644
Purrish's Cologne Water 983
Parrish's Compound Tobacco
Ointment 5292
Parrish's Fluid Extract of Bu-
chu 4590
Parrish's Quinine Pills 5434
Parrish's Sarsaparilla Syrup. . . 1391
Parrish's Strawoerry Syrup 1374
Parrish's Syrup Filter 1359
Parrish's Syrup of Hypophos-
phites. . ". 4643
Parrots, to teach, how to Speak 6185
Parts by Volume, to reduce, to
parts by Weight 6152
Passini's Antiseptic Solution.. 1661
iPassy Water, Aerated 4472
Paste, Almond 1123
Paste, Almond and Honey 1134
Paste, Azure, for the Skin 111.4
Paste, Bitter-almond 1124
Paste, Depilatory 1223
Paste, Flour 2271, &c.
Paste for Artificial Gems 2352, 2419
Paste for Cementing Leather
or Cloth' to Wood 2275
Paste for cleaning Brass 3391
Paste for Enamels 2379
Paste, Glycerine 2299, 5226
Paste for Gold-plating 3593
Paste for Paper-hanging 2272, 2812
Paste for polishing Furniture . 2988
2990.
Paste for Razor-strops 6247
Paste for Silver-plating 3603
Paste for Toothache 5872
Paste, Pectoral 5269
Paste, Phosphorus, for Vermin. 1899
Paste, Shaving 1165
Paste, to make Moulds of Fig-
ures in 3683
Pasteur's method of preserving
Wines 759
Pastilles aux Fleurs d'Orange. .1342
Pastilles a la Rose 1343
Pastilles a la Vunillp 1344
Pastils for Fumigating 1337, &c.
Pastils for the Breath. . . . 1336, 5405
5462.
Pastils of every Variety 1345
Patchouli, Essence of 966
Patchouli, Extract of 1069
Pate d'Amande an Miel 1184
Pate pour faire la Barbo 1165
Patent and Proprietary Medi-
cines 5171, &o.
Patent Base for making Artifi-
cial Gems 2422
Patent Blue Ink 2481, 2488
Patent Boot Blacking 3092, 3099, 3101
Patent Dryer 2739
Patent Gelatine 4368
Patent Leather, Polish for 3072
Patent Wash Mixture 480
Patent Yeast 1814
Patcy's Orris Tooth-paste 1321
Patterson's Emulsion of Pump-
kin-seeds 5432
Peach Brandy 785
Peach Brandy, Imitation 813
Peach-Colorell Dye for Cottons 174
Peach Essence, Artificial 1C46
Peach Flavoring for Liquors 674
6294.
Peach-Kernels, Essence of 943
Peach- Leaf Water. 1071, 1073
Peaches, to can 1636, 1 639
Peaches, to dry 1640
Peaches, to keep fresh.. 1638, 1641
Peale's Method of obtaining
pure Silver 3216
Pear Essence, Artificial 1052
Pear, Jargonelle, Essential Oil
of 1470
Pear Syrup 1411
Pears, to can 1636
Pears, to dry 1640
Pears, to keep fresh 1638, 1641
Pearlash, Commercial 4181
Pearl Dentifrice 1303
Pearl Powder for the Skin 1110
Pearl Tooth Powder 1303 '
592 PEA— PER
f
Pearl White Dye for Silks 263
Pearl White for the Skin. 1109, 4135
Pearson's Arsenical Solution.. 5299
Peau d'Espagne 1355
Pectoral Balsam 5097
Pectoral, Cherry 5267
Pectoral Drops 5193
Pectoral Elixir 5445
Pectoral Paste 5269
Pectoral Pills 5253
Pectoral Syrup 5265
Pelargonic Ether 1471 , 4296
Pelargoniums, Mildew on, to
remove 1850
Peligot's Bohemian Tube Glass 2340
Pelletier's Quinine Dentifrice. .1304
Pelletier's Odontine 1314
Pellitory, Fluid Extract of 457^
Pellitory, Oil of 4752
Pellitory, Tincture of, Com-
pound 4532
Pelouze's German Silver 3413
Pelouze's Process for preserving
Meat 1605
Pencil, to, Brick-work 2792
Pencil Drawings, to fix ... 1959, &c.
Pencil Drawings, to protect... 6363
Pencils for Writing on Glass. .6390
Pencils, Lead for 6197
Pendulum Measure 5980
Pennyroyal, Essential Oil of. . . 1465
Peony, see PCEONIA.
Pepper, Black, Extract of 1039
Pepper, Black, Oil of 4752
Pepper, Black, Tincture [of 4495
Pepper, Cayenne 1789
Pepper Vinegar 1776
Peppermint Brandy 787
Peppermint, Essence of 4610
Peppermint, Essential Oil of. . .1465
Peppermint Water 4758
Peppers, Pickled 1796
Pepsine 5680
Pepsine and Iron Pills 4928
Pepsine, Bismuth and Strych-
nia, Wine of 4724
Pepsine, Elixir of 4718, &c.
Pepsine Pills 5457, 5460
Pepsine, Syrup of 4684
Pepsine Wine 4721, 4726
Perchlorates, see CHLORATES.
Perchloric Acid 3964
Perchloric Acid, to obtain 3965
Perchloride of Iron, Solution of 4816
Perchlorides, see CHLORIDES.
Percolation 41, 4572
Percolators 41
Percussion Caps, Priming for. .2138
Percussion Pellets 2139
Perfumed Essences 940
Perfumed Oils 1226, &c.
Perfumed Oils by Eufleurage..l229
Perfumed Oils by Infusion 1228
Perfumed Oils from Essential
Oils 1227
Perfumed Powders 1099, &c.
Perfumed Sealing-wax 2325
Perfumed Spirits 940, 976, 998
Perfumed Waters 1070 &c.
Perfumed Waters, Practical
Hints for 1076
Perfumed Waters, Proportions
of Aromaticsfor 1071
Perfumed Waters, Soubeiran's
Apparatus for 1077
Pertumed Waters, to distill 1073
Perfumed Waters, to prevent,
from Souring 1075
Perfumed Waters, to remove
the Burnt Smell from 1074
Perfumers' Fumigating Pastils 1339
Perfumery, General Receipts
for 939, &c.
Perfumes, Acetic 1088
Perfumes, Ammoniated 1095
Perfumes, Economical 1026
Peristaltic Persuader Pills 5173,5320
Permanganates 3941, 4190
Permanganate of Potassa3941, 4190
Permanganate of Potassa Hair
Dye 1211
Permanganate of Potassa Solu-
tion 4796,4798
PER — PHO
Permanganate of Potassa, Tests
for 4191
Permanganic Acid 3941
Permuriates, see MURIATES.
Peroxides, see OXIDES.
Perry's Toothache Essence 5874
Persian Balsam 5419
Persoz's Aniline Black 2574
Perspiration in the Feet, to
absorb 5846
Perspiration, to preserve Kid-
Gloves from 6243
Perspiration, to remove Stains
of 505
Perspiration, to restrain 5786
Peru, Balsam of, Factitious 5108
Peru, Balsam of, Test for 5109
Peruvian Bark and Protoxide
of Iron, Elixir of 4702
Peruvian Bark, Decoction of. . .5127
Peruvian Bark, Infusion of, ... 5128
Peruvian Bark, to prevent Sedi-
ment in Preparations of 4709
Peruvian Bark Tooth-paste 1310
Peruvian Bitters 822
Peruvian Lip-salve 1170
Peruvian Pomade 1269
Peruvian Tooth-paste 1318
Petalite 4239
Peter's Pills 5185
Petrify, to, Wooden Objects.. .1686
Petroleum 1526
Petroleum, Cement to resist 2162
Petroleum for turning Metals 3449
Petroleum, Glycerinated 5014
Petroleum Liniment 4877, 5402, 5836
.1532
Petroleum, to extinguish Burn-
ing
Petroleum, to purify 1527
Pettenkofer's Test for Bile in
Urine 4398
Pettijean's Silvering on Glass. .3617
Pew s Composition 2173
Pewter 3422
Pewter, Flux for Soldering 3483
Pewter, Solder for 3502
Pfundheller's Barytes White. . .2698
Pharaoh's Serpent's Eggs. 6296, 6297
Phenic Acid 3916
Phenol or Phenyle 2588, 3916
Phenyl, Hydrate of 3916
Phenyl Paper 1936
Phials, to clean 432
Phillips' Fire Annihilator 6379
Phillips' Syrup of Sesquichloride
of Iron 4665
Philocome 1270
Philosophical Instruments, Lac-
quer for 3062
Phosphates 3920
Phosphate for Manuring 1830
Phosphate of Iron 4631
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of... 4632
4634.
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of,
with Manganese 4634
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of,
with Quinine 4628
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of,
with Quinine and Strychnine 4629
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of,
with Strychnine 4630
Phosphate of Iron and Lime,
Syrup of 4635
Phosphate of Lime 4635
Phosphate of Lime, Syrup of. . .4636
Phosphate of Manganese 4633
Phosphate of Manganese, Syrup
of
.4633
Phosphate of Quinine, Syrup of 4627
Phosphate of Soda 4210
Phosphate of Zinc, Syrup of. ..462G
Phosphides 4332
Phosphine Aniline Dye 2597
Phosphites 3927
Phosphorated Ether 4748
Phosphorescent Oil 4339
Phosphoric Acid 3920
Phosphoric Acid, Anhydrous.. 3923
Phosphoric Acid, Commercial. 3921
Phosphoric Acid, Dilute 3924
Phosphoric Acid, Glacial or Hy
PHO — PIE
Phosphoric Acid, Tests for 3925
3926.
Phosphorous Acid 3927
Phosphorus 4332, &c.
Phosphorus, Antidote for 5906
Phosphorus Bottles 4336
Phosphorus Bronzes 3447
Phosphorus Paste for Verm in. 1899
Phosphorus, to coat, with Cop-
per 4337
Phosphorus, to obtain 4333
Phosphorus, to reduce, to Pow-
der 4338
Phosphurets, see PHOSPHIDES.
Phosphuretted Hydrogen 4055
Phosphuretted Hydrogen, to ob-
tain 4056
Photographers, India-rubber
Glue for 2293
Photographic Cliches, to make 3142
Photographic Impressions with
Fuchsine 3156
Photographs, Cameo, to Enam-
el 3155
Photographs, Collodion Var-
nish for 3162
Photographs, Developing Solu-
tion for 3151, .3152
Photographs, Enamel for 2402
Photographs, Everlasting,. on
Enamel 3164
Photographs, Fixing Bath for. .3139
Photographs, Negative, Gloss
for 3147, 3148
Photographs, Negative, to de-
velop 3144, 3146
Photographs, Negative, to
make 3142
Photographs, Negative, to Var-
nish 3145
Photographs, Negative, Var-
nish for 3153
Photographs on Wood 3165
Photographs, Paper for .*. . 3168
Photographs, Papier Saxe for.. 31 30
Photographs, Preservation of. .3163
Photographs, Tapioca Paper
for 3157
Photographs, to clean Glass
for 3160,3185
Photographs, Varnish for. 2932, 2935
3161.
Photography 3128, &c.
Photography, Albumenizcd Pa-
per for 3132, 3178
Photography, Artificial Ivory
for 3180
Photography, Causes of Failure
in 3154
Photography, Collodion for. . . .3149
Photography, Ivory for 2010
Photography, Precautions in.. 3141
Photography, Silver Bath for.. 3150
Photography, Solutions for 3181, &c.
Photography, to prepare Paper
for 3131, &c., 31ti9, <fec.
Photography, Toning Bath for 3137,
3184.
Photography, Wax Paper for.. 3179
Photography without a Camera 3129
3135.
Physic's Bitter Wine of Iron. .4704
Physic's Issue Ointment 5284
Piccalilli 1805
Pickle, to, Meat 1602, &c.
Pickles, Cautions in making.. .1766
Pickles, Receipts for 1790, &c.
•ip
Pickles, Spiced Vinegar for 1791
Pickles, to color, Green 2636
Picric Acid .
Picture Frames, Ornaments
for.
drated 3922 Pierre Artificielle
.2601
6234
Picture Frames, to bronze 3827
Picture Frames, to clean 2978
Picture Frames, to gild. .3559, &c.
Picture Varnishes. . .2907, 2911, &c.
2944.
Pictures, Decalcomine, to apply 6195
Pictures, to clean 407
Pierlot's Solution of Valerianate
of Ammonia 5390
Pierquin's Cough Syrup 5466
2196
PIE — PIN
PIN — PL A
PLA — POM
593
Pierre Divine 5296
Piesse's Eau de Cologne 977
Piesse's Fumigating Pastils 1340
Piesse's Method of cleaning
Printed Paper 1973
Pieste's Toothache Essence 5875
Pig Iron 3258
Pigments 2673, &c.
Pigs, to banish Fleas from 1913
Pile, to raise the, on Velvet, &c. 463
Piles, Liniment for 5219
Piles, Ointment for.. 4986, &c., 5254
Piles, Remedies for 5708, &c.
Piles, Salve for 4989
Pills 4897, &c.
Pills, Aloes 4900
Pills, Aloes and Assafoatida . . .4901
Pills, Aloes and Mandrake 5191
Pills, Aloes and Myrrh 4902
Pills, Alterative.... 4906, 5162, 5166
Pills, Anti bilious... 4907, 5174, 5175
Pills, Anti-chill 4908
Pills, Aperient 4909
Pills, Assafcetida 4903
Pills, Blancard's, Imitation of .4930
Pills, Blue 4919
Pills, Butternut 5319
Pills, Calomel 4920
Pills, Cathartic.. 4917, 5303, 5316, &c.
Pills, Chirayta 5192
Pills, Coating for 5358, &c.
Pills, Colocynth and Mandrake 5190
Pills, Constipation 5454
Pills, Copaiba 4918
Pills, Copaiba and Pepsine 5457
Pills, Cough 5598
Pills, Dandelion 4929, 5700
Pills, Dinner 5181
Pills, Diuretic 4910, 5149
Pills, Dyspepsia 5682
Pills, Female 5382, 5719, &c.
Pills, Ferruginous 5474
Pills, Fever and Ague 5581
Pills, Galbanum, Compound ... 4921
Pills, Gonorrhoea 4911
Pills, Gout.. ..5182, 5187, 5196, 5318
Pills, Gravel 5244
Pills, Health 5188, 5189
Pills, Indian Cathartic 5303
Pills, Indian Vegetable 5186
Pills, Intermittent Fever 5756, 6420
Pills, Iodide of Iron 4915, 4930
Pills, Iron, Compound 4916
Pills, Mandrake, Mercurial 4912
Pills, Mercurial 4919
Pills, Nervous 5573
Pills, Opium 4914
Pills, Pectoral 5253
Pills, Pepsine 5459
Pills, Pepsine and Iron 4928
Pills, Peristaltic Persuader 5173
5320.
Pills, Podophyllin 4912
Pills, Podophyllin Aloes and
Iron 4913
Pills, Quinine 4904, 5434
Pills, Rhubarb 4922, 4923
Pills Salutaria 5189
Pills Salutis 5188
Pills, Squill 4924
Pills, Storax, Compound 4925
Pills, Sulphate of Quinine. 4904, &c.
Pills, Sulphite of Soda 4927
Pills, Sulphur 4926
Pills. Taraxacum 4929, 5700
PiUs| to silver or gild 4899
Pills, to sugar-coat 4898
Pills, Tonic 5125, 5166, 5216
Pills, Triplex 5184
Pills, Vermifuge 5648
Pimento, Essence of 952
Pimento, Essential Oil of 1465
Pimento, Fluid Extract of 4579
Pimples, Remedy for 5490
Pin Spots, to remove, from
Steel 6304
Pinchbeck 3348
Pineapple, Essence of, Artifi-
cial 953, 1060
Pineapple, Oil of, Artificial. . . . 4293
Pineapple Syrup 1405
Pink and Green, to dye Mixed
Fabrics 284
Pink Fire 2092
Pink Lights 2117
Pink Pigments 2685
Pink, to color Fats 1258
Pink, to dye Silks 248
Pink, to dye Woolens 201
Pink-Root, Fluid Extract of 4577
Pint, Scotch 6042
Pipes, Brandy, to plaster 695
Pipes, Gas, to bend 6316
Pipes, Glass, to bend 3851
Pipes, Rubber, to render, Gas-
tight 4033
Pipes, Water, to protect Lead-
en 6224
Pipes, Water, to manage, in
Winter 6223
Piperine 4017
Pipettes 3832
Pipsissewa, Fluid Extract of. . 4577
Pique's, French Method of Wash-
ing 490
Pique's to starch 500
Pistachio Cream 1139
Pitch, to remove from the Skin,
Glass, &c 6421
Pitch Stains, to remove 339
Plain Syrup 1370
Planks, to prevent, from Split-
ting 1678
Plants, Cleanliness needed for 1871
Plants, Compsts for 1822
Plants, Cuttings of, to insert. . .1832
Plants, Cuttings of, to select and
manage 1831, 1843
Plants, Green'Fly on,to destroy 1851
1854.
Plants, Insects on, to destroy.. 1845
1858.
Plants, Maggots on, to destroy 1859
Plants, Marsh, to propagate... 1883
Plants, Mildew on, to remove. .1850
Plants, Roots of, to keep 1889
Plants, Specimens of, to pre-
serve 6176, &c.
Plants, to prevent Damping or
Fogging off in 1843
Plants, to fumigate 1852
Plants, to protect, against Red
Spiders 1857
Plant Sticks, to keep, from
Rotting 1874
Plasma, Schacht's 5009
Plasters, Medicinal 5040, &c.
Plaster, Adhesive Resin 5046
Plaster, Anodyne 5048
Plaster, Black 5285
Plaster, Blistering 5053
Plaster, Burgundy Pitch 5052
Plaster, Cancer 5047
Plaster, Cantharides 5053, &c.
Plaster, Carbolic 5061
Plaster, Corn 5060
Plaster, Cough 5050
Plaster, Court 5058
Plaster, Depilatory 1224
Plaster, Deschamp's 5045
Plaster, Devil's 5278
Plaster, Diachylon 5043
Plaster, Healing 5059
Plaster, Irritating 5062
Plaster, Lead 5043
Plaster, Litharge 5043
Plaster, Mustard 5057
Plaster, Mustard,Homo3opathic5056
Plaster, Nuremberg 5383
Plaster, Poor Man's 5276
Plaster, Porous 5275
Plaster, Resolvent 5051
Plaster, Strengthening 5049
Plaster, to prevent, from adher-
ing to Paper 5042
Plaster, to spread 5041
Plaster, Universal 5277
Plaster, Warm 5055
Plaster, White Lead 5044
Plaster Casts, Amalgam for Var-
nishing 3548
Plaster Ground for Chinese Ja-
panning 3040
Plaster Moulds, to make. .3677, &c.
Plaster Moulds, to prepare, for
Electrotyping 3688, &c.
Plaster of Paris 2020, 4352
Plaster of Paris, Cement for. . .2177
Plaster of Paris, to bronze 3792,3823
Plaster of Paris, to cast 2031
Plaster of Paris, to color 2029
Plaster of Paris, to detect, in
Paper 1946
Plaster of Paris, to dress, with
Wax 2023
Plaster of Paris, to engrave on 2021
Plaster of Paris, to harden 2022
2025, &c.
Plaster of Paris, to polish .2030
Plaster of Paris, to print on . . .1975
Plaster of Paris, to render hard
and durable 2024
Plastered Walls, to prepare, for
Painting 2780
Plastering Stuffs and Stucco.. 2197
Plastic Material 2204
Plate Glass 2349, &c.
Plated- Ware, to clean. 512, 3227, <fcc.
Plated- Ware, to test 3722
Platina, see PLATINUM.
Platina Mohr 3338
Platinated Asbestos 3335
Plating, Electro 3696, &o.
Plating Powder, Gold 3591
Plating without a Battery 3744
Platinum 3333
Platinum, Alloys of 3423, 3440
Platinum, Ammonio-chloride of 4086
Platinum, Black 3338
Platinum, Chlorides of 3220, 4084
Platinum Lustre for Pottery.. 2417
Platinum, Nitro-muriate of 3220
Platinum, Spongy 3336
Platinum, Tests for, in Solu-
tions 4087
Platinum, to coat Copper with. 3658
Platinum, to coat Glass with. .3656
Platinum, to coat Silver with.. 3670
Platinum, to electroplate with. 3760
Platinum, to purify 3334
Plum Essence, Artificial 1048
Plum Colored Dye for Worsted,
Silk, or Cotton 320
Plumbago 4164
Plumbago Bronzing 3775
Plumbers' Cement 2226
Plumbers' Solder 3505
Plumb Spirit, for Dyeing. . .111, 112
Plums, to can 1636
Plums, to keep, fresh 1638, 1642
Plunket's Cancer Ointment 5386
Plush, to raise the Pile on 463
Pneumatic Trough 4031
Pocket-Handkerchiefs, Silk, to
wash 477
Podophyllin Pills 4912
Podophyllin Aloes and Iron
Pills 4913
Podophyllin, Tincture of 4507
Podophyllum, Fluid Extract of . 4575
Poeonia Roots, to preserve 1888
Pointing Brickwork 2792
Point Lace, to wash 478
Poison, Fly 191$
Poison in Bitter Almonds, to I
neutralize 1034
Poison Ivy, Remedies for. 5930, <fec.
Poison Oak Leaves, Oil of 4752
Poison Oak, Remedies for. 5930, &c.
Poison, Rat 1897
Poisoning, Cases of, Treatment
for 5896
Poisons, Antidotes for 5895, &c.
Polish for Furniture 2987, &c.
Polish for Harness 3075
Polish for Patent Leather 3072
Polish for Turners' Work 3009
Polish, to make 2996, &c.
Polish White 2760
Polishers' Putty 4122
Polishing 2979, &c.
Polishing, French. ..2981, 2993, &c.
Polishing Paste 2988
Polishing Powder for Gold 3204
Polishing Powder for Specula 6356
Polishing Varnished Surfaces . 2976
2980, &c.
Pollack's Cement 2211
Pomade a la Rose 1262
POM — POT
Pomade a la Vanille .......... 1262
Pomade a la Violette .......... 1263
Pomade an Jasmin ............ 1263
Pomade aux Fleurs d'Orange. .1262
1263.
Pomade, Castor Oil ............ 1276
Pomade Cacao, for the Lips and
Hands ...................... H36
Pomade, Common ........ 1265, 1266
Pomade Centre 1' Alope"oie ..... 1284
Pomade, Creosote ............. 4953
Pomade, Crystallized .......... 1274
Pomade de 'Beaut6 ............ 1164
Pomade de MiUefleur ......... 1268
Pomade de Ninon del'Enclos .1163
Pomade de V6nus ............ 1164
Pomade d'Orient ............. 1272
Pomade de Toscanie .......... 4951
Pomade des Indes ............ 1272
Pomade Divine ............... 1275
Pomade for the Moustache ---- 1287
Pomade, Palma Christi ........ 1276
Pomade, Peruvian ............ 1269
Pomade, Plain ............... 1265
Pomade Rosat for the Lips ---- 1135
Pomade, Eose ................ 1267
Pomade, Tonqnin ............. 1246
Pomade, Transparent ......... 1273
Pomade, Vanilla ......... 1247, 1271
Pomades ................. 1252, &c.
Pomades, Essences for Scenting 1261
Pomades for Incipient Bald-
ness .................... 1279, &c.
Pomades for strengthening the
Hair ................... 1279, &c.
Pomades, Mixed or Compound 1264
Pomades, Piesse's Method of
Scenting .................... 1262
Pomades, to color Fat for ...... 1257
Pomades, to finish off ......... 1256
Pomades, to perfume, by Enfleu-
rage ........................ 1263
Pomades, to perfume, by Infu-
sion ........................ 1262
Pomades, to perfume Fat for.. 1255
Pomades, to purify Fat for 1253, &c.
Pomatum, see POMADE.
Pomegranate Hoot, Fluid Ex-
tract of ..................... 4577
Poncine Soap ................. 565
Poor Man's Plaster ............ 5276
Poppy Oil, Test for ............ 1498
Poppy Oil, to detect, in Castor
OU ......................... 1499
Porcelain, Cements for. ..2153, &c,
2247.
Porcelain, Glazes for ...... 2404, &c,
Porcelain, to bronze ........... 3827
Porcelain, to gild on .......... 3575
Porcelain, to remove the Gild-
ing from .................... 3595
Porcelain, to silver ............ 3631
Pork, Weight of, in Live Hogs. 6129
Pork, to dry-salt .............. 1602
Pork, to pickle, ..... 1602, 1607, &c.
Pork, to smoke ................ 1600
Porous Cloth, to waterproof. ..1553
Porous Plaster ................ 5275
Porphyrization .............. 25, 31
Port Fire ..................... 2102
Port Wine, Imitation ......... 728
Port Wine Stains, to remove. . 369
Port Wine, tofine ............. 746
Portable Glue ................. 2308
Portable Lemonade ........... 915
Porter, Bitter Balls for ........ 870
Porter, to brew ............... 856
Porter, to fine ................. 747
Porter, to make Home-brewed, 865
I Portland Cement .............. 2195
Portuguese Weights and Mea-
sures ................... 6089, &c.
Postage Stamp Mucilage ...... 2300
Potash ........................ 3974
Potash, Caustic ........... 101, 4192
Potash, Caustic, to test ........ 584
Potash, Caustic Lyes, Table of .629
Potash, Commercial ........... 4181
Potash Lye, Home-made ...... 550
Potash Lye, Soapmakers' ..... 519
Potash Poisons, Antidotes for. 5901
Potash, Solution of ............ 4784
Potassa ....................... 3974
POT — POW
Potassa, Acetate of 4180
Potassa and Soda, Tartrate of .4213
Potassa, Anhydrous 3975
Potassa, Bichromate of, Substi-
tute for 4188
Potassa, Carbonates of 4181
Potassa, Caustic .V 3976
Potassa, Chlorates of 4184, 4185
Potassa, Chromates of... 4186, 4187
Potassa, Citrate of 4808
Potassa, Cosmetic Solution of. .4856
Potassa Gargle 5064
Potassa, Hydrate of 3976, 4192
Potassa, Nitrate of 4194
Potassa, Nitrite of 4189
Potassa, Permanganate of 3941,4190
Potassa, Prussiate of 4200
Potassa, Silicate of 2816, &c.
Potassa, Tartrates of 4196, &c.
Potassa, Tests for 3977
Potassa with Lime 4193
Potassio-Tartrate of Antimony 4129
Potassio- Tartrate of Ajitimony
Ointment 4995
Potassio-Tartrate of Soda 4213
Potassium, Bromide of. 4198
Potassium, Chlorideof 4199
Potassium, Cyanide of 4202
Potassium, Ferridcyanide of. . .4200
Potassium, Ferrocyanide of. ..4201
Potassium, Fluid Alloy of. 3455
Potassium, Iodide of 4203
Potassium, Sulphocyanide of. .4205
Potassium, Sulphuret of 4204
Potato Poultice 5029
Potatoes, Frozen, Remedy for.. 6204
Potatoes, to dry 1889
Potatoes, to preserve 1888
Pottery, Metallic Lustres for.. 2414
Pottery, to silver 3630
Pouchapat, Essence of 966
Poudre a la Vanille Brune 1105
Poudre a 1'CEUlet Comppsee. ..1106
Poudre Blonde for the Hair 1104
Poudre d'Iris 1101
Poudre Noir for the Hair 1103
Poudre pour les Dents 1288, &c.
Poultices 5018, &c.
Poultice, Alum 5033
Poultice, Bread 5019
Poultice, Carrot 5024
Poultice, Charcoal 5026
Poultice, Chlorinated 5038
Poultice for Festers 5032
Poultice for Gout 5035
Poultice for Sprains, &c 5025
Poultice, Goulard's 5030
Poultice, Hemlock 5034
Poultice, Indian Turnip 5028
Poultice, Linseed 5023
Poultice, Lobelia 5031
Poultice, Mustard 5021
Poultice, Potato 5029
Poultice, Slippery-elm 5020
Poultice, Soap 5036
Poultice, Vinegar 5037
Poultice, Teast 5027
Poultry, Dead, to keep, fresh.. 1619
Poultry, to clear, of Lice 1922
Pounce 1954
Pounds, Ounces, &c., Decimal
Equivalents of 5939, &c.
Pouret, Gay-Lussac's 82
Powder, Anodyne 5131
Powder, Baking 1817
Powder, Castillon's 5475
Powder, Dover's 5176
Powder, Dover's, Camphorated 5423
Powder, Egg 1817
Powder, Emetic 5169
Powder, Ferruginous 5464
Powder, Fertilizing 1829
Powder, Fever 5145
Powder for Boots 6319
Powder for boiling Plated-ware3228
Powder for cleaning Plated-
ware 3229
Powder for Gold-plating 3591
Powder for Silver-plating 3600
Powder, Gleet 5314
Powder, Gregory's 5211, 5414
Powder, Infant 5450
Powder, Ink 2474
POW — PRTT
Powder, Milk 5471
Powder, Nerve 5571
Powder, Polishing, for Gold. ..3204
Powder, Polishing, for Silver.. 3223
Powder, Polishing, for Specula 6356
Powder, Rheumatic 5531
Powder, Thompson's Composi-
tion 5178
Powder, Wart or Corn 5825
Powders, Anti-incrustation, for
Boilers 2334
Powders, Blasting 2144
Powders for Filtering 3839
Powders, Ginger-beer 902
Powders, Lemonade 908, 916
Powders, Perfumed, for the Skin,
1099, &c.
Powders, Spruce-beer 903
Powders for Surface-bronzing. 3794
Powders for Welding 3523, &c.
Powders, Fulminating < 2136
Powell's Cough Balsam 5442
Pradier's Razor-strop Paste . . .6248
Prairie Itch, Remedy for 5479
Precious Stones, see GEMS.
Precipitated Chalk 1291
Precipitates, Moist, to find the
Dry-weight of 3852
Precipitates, to filter 3837
Precipitation 24
Pregnancy, Remedy for After-
pains 5722
Pregnancy, to relieve Vomiting
in 5720
Preparations, Acid, of Tin 107, &c.
Preparations, Anatomical, An-
tiseptics for 1651, &o.
Preparations, Medicinal 33
Prepared Bran for the Hair 1102
Prepared Chalk 1292
Prepared Charcoal 1294
Prepared Ox-gall 373
Prepared Paper, see PAPER..
Prescriptions, Signs used in... 5964
Preservatives 1598
Preservative against Infection 1708
Preservative Fluids for Micro-
scopic Objects 1662
Preserving, see ARTICLE to be
preserved.
Preventives, see OBJECT to be
prevented.
Preventive Lotions 4825
Pricked Wine, to remedy 752
Prickly-Ash Bark, Fluid Ex-
tract of 4579
Prickly- Ash Berries, Tincture of4536
Priming for House-pain ting... 2746
Prince Rupert's Drops 2373
Prince's Metal 3348
Printer's Inks 2543, &c.
Printer's Ink, Varnish for 2897
Printer's Ink Rollers, Compo-
sition for 2541
Printer's Ink Rollers, to clean. 2542
6337.
Printing Ink, to remove 404
Prints, Colored, to look like Oil
Paintings 2964
Prints, to gild the Background
of 2945
Prints, to mount 6407
Prints, Varnish for 2938, 2944
Procter's classified Fluid Ex-
tracts 4573, &c.
Procter's 'Extract of Arnica. . .4751
Procter's Fluid Extract of Hops 4594
Procter's Fluid Extract of Li-
quorice 4595
Procter's Fluid Extract of Wild-
cherry Bark 4589
Procter's Rennet Wine 4713
Procter's Syrup of Hypophos-
phites 4641
Procter's Syrup of Tolu 4677
Procter's V ermifuge 5428
Proof Spirit 1436
Proportions of the Human Body 6148
Protochlorides, see CHLORIDES.
Protoxides, see OXIDES.
Provins Water 4470
Prune Flavoring for Liquors . . 664
Prussian Blue, 2674, &c., 4167, 4169
PRU — QTJI
QUI — RED
RED — RHTJ
595
Prussian Blue, Soluble 2615
Prussian Blue, to test 2479
Prussian Money 6080
Prussian "Weights andMeasures
6081, &c.
Prussiates 3956
Prussiate of Copper 4098
Prussiate of Potash 4200, 4201
Prussia Acid 3947
Prussic Acid, Action of, on Iron 2676
Prussia Acid, Anhydrous 3948
Prussic Acid, Antidotes for... 5911
Prussic Acid, Dilute 3949
Prussic Acid Lotion 4833
Prussic Acid, Tests for.. 3950, 3951
Psyche, Cremede 1137
Puce Dye for Cottons 169, 175
Puce Dye for Woolens 212
Puffer's Root Beer 890
Pullna Water, Aerated 4446
Pullna Water, Salts for making 4447
Pulmonary Balsam 5601
Pulmonary Syrup 5600
Pulp, to find the Dry-weight of. 3852
Pulverization 25
Pumice-Stone, to prepare, for
use 3014
Pumpkin Seeds, Emulsion of. .5432
Punch, Brandy 919
Punch, Claret 921
Punch, Milk 918
Punch, Regent 928
Punch, Rum 710
Punch Syrup for Cordials 1383
Punch, Whiskey 920
Punch, Wine 711, &c.
Purcher's Iron-coating for Zinc 3654
Purifying, see ARTICLE to be
purified.
Purple Aniline Dyes .2607, &c.,2611
Purple Dye for Cottons 171, &c.
Purple Dye for Ivory 1988
Purple Dye for Wood . 2834
Purple Dye for Woolens. . .218, 229
Purple Enamels 2386
Purple Fire 2077, 2090
Purple Ink 2494
Purple Marble for Bookbinders 3122
Purple Marking Ink 2512
Purple of Cassius 2720, &c.
Purple Stain for Glass 2361
Purple Stain for Wood 2861
Purpurate of Ammonia 4224
Puscher's Solution for coloring
Metals 3188
Putrefaction 16
Putrid Fermentation 16
Putty, Hard or Old, to remove. 2785
2786.
Putty, Hard, to soften. ..2784, 2790
Putty, Painters' 2242
Putty, Quick Hardening 2243
Putty, to remove, from Glass.. 2783
Putty, to soften, in Window
Frames 2784
Putty, Wax, for leaky Casks.. 696
Puttying in House-painting . . .2748
Pyrethrum, Fluid Extract of. .4579
Pyrmont Water, Aerated4448, 4473
Py rogaUic Acid 3909, 3910
Pyrogallic Hair-dye 1200
Pyrolusite 4255
Pyrophorus 4340, &c.
Pyrophosphate of Iron 4737
Pyrotechny 2048, &c.
Quartz, to pulverize 25
Quassia, Tincture of 4562
Queen's Root, Fluid Extract of 4587
Queen's Root, Syrup of 4672
Queen's Root, Syrup of, Com-
pound 4673
Queen's Root, Tincture of 4508
Quesneville's Ferruginous Pow-
der 5464
Quick Lime 3994
Quick Match 2060
Quicksilver, see MERCURY.
Quills, to clarify 6314
Quin Sauce 1757
Quince, Artificial Essence of. .4296
Quince, Essential Oil of, Arti-
ficial 1471
ince Mucilage 1154 I Red Dye, Aniline332, 2575, &c., 2612
luinces, to can 1634 Red Dye for Cottons 153
Quinces, to dry 1640
Quinces, to keep fresh 1638, 1641
Quinicine 4004
Quinidine * 4004,4028
Quinine or Quinia 4003
Quinine Ague Mixture. . .5582, 5584
Quinine, Amorphous 4004
Quinine, Caution in the use of. .5583
Quinine Dentifrice 1304
Quinine, Essence of 4624
Quinine, Hydriodate of 4264
Quinine, Percentage of. in Bark 4027
Quinine Pills 4904, 4905, 5434
Quinine, Sulphate of 4265
Quinine, Test for Quinidine in. 4029
Quinine, Test for Strength of. .4026
Quinine, to dissolve 5578
Quinine Toothpaste 1319
Quinine Wine 5199
Quinoidine 4004
Quinometry 4025
Quinsy, Symptoms of 5630
Quinsy, Treatment of 5631
Rabbit Skins, to cure 649
Radius' Camphor Chilblain Oint-
ment 5403
Radway 's Ready Relief 5335
Radway's Renovating Resol-
vent 5336
Rags, Woolen, to bleach 1726
Raisin Flavoring for Liquors. . 665
Raisin Wine 729
Rukusiri, Balm of 5115
Rape Oil, Test for 1497, 1499
Rape Oil, to detect, in Olive Oil 1498
Raspberries, to can 1636
Raspberry, Currant and Cherry
Wine 728
i Raspberry Essence, Artificial. .1057
Raspberry Shrub 905
Raspberry Syrup for Cordials . .1372
Raspberry Syrup for Soda Wa-
ter 1403
Raspberry Syrup, Imitation. ..1373
1403.
Raspberry Vinegar 1779, &c.
Raspberry Wine 728
Ratafia 790
Rattlesnake Poison, Antidote
for 5924, &c.
Rats, Bait for 1895
Rats, Phosphorus Paste for 1899
Rats, Poison for 1897
Rats, to catch 1893
Rats, to drive away 1898, 1923
Rats, Trap for 1894
Razors, to hone 6245
Razors, to sharpen 6250
Razors, to strop 6249
Razor-Strop, the best 6246
Razor-Strops, Paste for 6247
Reade's Blue Writing Fluid . . .2488
Reagents, to restore Colors de-
stroyed by 362
Reaumur, Fahrenheit and Cen-
tigrade compared 92
Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of
Centigrade to 91
Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of
Fahrenheitto 89
Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of,
to Centigrade 90
Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of,
to Fahrenheit 88
Reaumur's Thermometer 85
Rebling's Method of Purifying
Honey 1567
R6boulet's Antiseptic Solution . 1658
Rectification 3848
Rectified Spirits 1435
Rectifying Tub, to pack a 938
Red A'nts, to exterminate 1910
Red Bark, Tincture of 5544
Red Bengal Lights 2072
Red Bronzing Powder 3794
Red Cabbage, Pickled 1800
Red Cement 2190, 2227
Red Copying Paper 1926, 1948
Red Currant Wine 728
Red Drops 5376, 5411
Red Dye for Feathers 328
Red Dye for Ivory 1985, &c.
Red Dye for Silks 247, 250
Red Dye for Wood 2831, &c.
Red Dye for Woolens 197
Red Enamels 2388
Red Fire 2087, 2109
Red Foil for Imitation Gems. .2453
Red Frontignac Wine 6419
Red Hair-dye 1204, &c.
Red Hair-oil 1233
Red Ink 2498, &c.
Red Lacquer 3060, <fec.
Red-Lead, Antidotes for 5908
Red-Lead Cement 2169
Red Lights 2116
Red Lights for Indoors 2123
Red Lip-salve 1170
Red Liquor for Dyeing 100
Red Marble for Book-covers. . .3112
Red Pigments 2704, 2706, 2718
Red Precipitate 4141
Red Salve 4972
Red Sealing-wax 2313
Red Spider, to protect Plants
from 1857
Red Spirits for Dyeing 108
Red Sprinkle for Books 3126
Red Stain for Furniture 2856
Red Stain for Glass 2361
Red Stain for Marble 2043
Red, Turkey, French Process for
Dyeing 189
Red Wash for Bricks 2809
Red Wash, Mercurial 4848
Red Wines, to fine 745
Reduction 26
Redwood's Indelible Marking
Ink 2508
Redwood's Nervine Balsam . . .5340
Redwood's Red Ink 2503
Recce's Pills 5192
Reef Knot, to tie a 6262
Regent Punch 928
Regnault's Pectoral Paste 5269
Remedies, see COMPLAINT to be
remedied.
Remoussin's Antisyphilitic Gar-
gle 5415
Rennet 1595
Rennet, Essence of 1596
Rennet Wine 4713
Rensch's Arsenic Test 3937
Reps, Worsted, to clean 451
Resin Cerate, Compound 5003
Resin Ointment 4964
Resin Plaster, Adhesive 5046
Resin Soap 541
Resin Spots, to remove, from
Silk 338
Resin, Sugar 4313
Resin, to harden Tallow with. . 641
Resolvent Plaster 5051
Restoration after apparent
Drowning. 5893
Retorts for Distillation 13
Retorts, Gas, Cement for 2234
Retorts, Lutes for 2265, &c.
Reveil's Solution of Permangan-
ate of Potassa 4797
Rhatany, Tincture of 4563
Rheumatic Alterative 5535
Rheumatic Decoction 5540
Rheumatic Liniment 4884, &o.
Rheumatism, Causes of 5525
Rheumatism, Chronic, to cure. 5529
5537.
Rheumatism, Inflammatory, to
cure 5533, <tc.
Rheumatism, Nature of 5524
Rheumatism, Remedies for5526,&c.
Rheumatism, Syphilitic, to cure 5537
Rheumatism, Wine for 5408
Rhodium Wood,EssentialOilofl465
Rhubarb and Senna, Syrup of. .4639
Rhubarb and Senna, Tinctureof 4523
Rhubarb, Fluid Extract of, Al-
kaline 4586, 4591
Rhubarb Pills 4922
Rhubarb Pills, Compound 4923
Rhubarb, Syrup of 4638, 4640
596 RHU — ROS
Rhubarb, Syrup of, Alkaline. . .4675
Rhubarb, Syrup of, German . . .4674
Rhubarb, Tincture of 4522
Rhubarb, Tincture of, Alkaline 5356
Rhubarb, Tincture of, Aqueous 4546
Rhubarb, Tincture of, Sweet ..4545
Rhubarb Wine 734
Rhubarb-Root, to dry 1889
Ribbons, to clean 437
Ribbons, to preserve 6202
Ribbons, to restore creased 464
Ribron's Rattlesnake Antidote 5924
Rice Marble for Book-covers . .3115
Ricord & Favrot's Capsules of
Copaiba 5416
Ricord & Favrot's Capsules of
Copaiba and Tar 5417
Ricord's Aromatic "Wine 5348
Ricord's Copaiba and Pepsine
Pills 5457
Ricord's Gonorrhoea Injection. 5439
5738.
Riegler's Fever Tincture 5371
Riga Balsam 5094
Ring, to remove a tight, from
the Finger 6213
Ringworm, Remedies for. 5495, 5488
Rinmann's Green Pigment 2714
Ripe Gooseberry "Wine 735
Roaches, to drive away 1923
Roaches, to exterminate 1901
Roche Alnm 4256
Rochelle Salt 42J 3
Roche's Diptheria Remedy 5639
Roche's Embrocation 5257
Rocket Cases, to make 2050
Rockets, Chinese Fire for 2055
Rockets, Composition for charg-
ing 2054
Rockets, Display 2051
Rockets, Garniture for 2055, &c.
Rockets, Plain 2050
Rockets, to charge 2052
Rocks, &c., "Weight of 6134
Roman Candles 2062
Roman Candles, Composition
, for charging 2063
Roman Candles, Stars for. 2058,2064
Roman Cement 2203
Roman Money, Ancient 6057
Roman Money, Modern 6079
Roman Vitriol 120
Roman Weights and Measures 6057
6079.
Rondeletia, Bouquet de 1066
Rondeletia, Essence or Extrait
de 946, 1062
Roofs, Leaky, Cement for 2224
Rooms, Cement for Coating . . .2171
Root Beer 889, &c.
Roots, Bulbous, to preserve 1888
Roots, to extract Essential Oil
from 46
Roots, to dry 1889
Roots, Tuberous, to preserve . . . 1888
Rope, Weightof 6137
Ropiness in Beer, to remedy. . . 881
Ropiness in Wine, to remedy. . 749
Rosaniline 2553
Rosat, Pomade, for the Lips. . .1135
Rose Bandoline 1195
Rose, Esprit do 1001
Rose Glycerine Cream 1130
Rose Lip-salve 1171
Rose, Oil of 1227, 1229, 4752
Rose, Oil of, Test for 1484
Rose, Pastilles a la 1343
Rose Pomade 1262, 1267
Rose Soap 563
Rose Water 1008
Rose Water, to distal 1071, 1073,1079
Rose-Bushcs, Composition for
Wounds on 1877
Rose-Bushes, Insects on, to re-
move 1846
Rose-Bushes, Maggots on, to
destroy 1859
Rose-Bushes, Mildew on, to re-
move 1850
Rose-Bushes, Soot- water for... 1841
Rose-Colored Dye for Veneers. 2840
Rose-Colored Dye for Wood. . .2833
Rose-Colored Enamels 2391
Rose-Colored Fire 2093
Rose-Pink Pigment 2685
Roses Alcoholate of 1017
Roses
Attar or Otto of 975
Roses Attar of, Test for 1484
Roses Bloom of 1113
Roses Essence of 944, &c.
Roses Extractof 1035
Roses Honey of 4694
Roses Infusion of 4739
Roses Milk of 1140
Rosemary, Essential Oil of 1465
Rosewood, to imitate 2851
Rother's Soap Liniment 6404
Rouges for the Skin 1099, &c.
Rouget's Method of fixing Draw-
ings 1959
Round Soap, Paris 596
Rousseau's Laudanum 5468
Royal-Blue Dye for Cottons 133
Royal-Blue Dye for Silks 257
Royale, Eau 994
Royale, Essence 960
Rubefacients 5081, &c.
Rubefacient Solution of Iodine. 5422
Rubus, Fluid Extract of 4577
Ruby-Colored Dyes for Silks ... 253
Ruby Foil 2458
Ruby, Imitation 2355, 2432, 2445
Rue, Oil of 4752
Rue, Oil of, Test for 1486
Rugs, Hearth, to clean 445
Rugs, Sheepskin, to clean 420
Ruhmkorf's Zinc Amalgama-
ting Fluid 3555
Rules for the Treatment of Al-
cohol 1449, &c.
Rum 1435
Rum, Imitation 699, 702
Rum, New England, Distillation
of 931, &c.
Rum, New England, Mash for. 932
Rum, New England, Yeast for. 932
Rum Punch 710
Rum, Test for 4407
Runge's Black Ink 2483
Rupture, Treatment of 5770
Russia Leather 644
Russia Salve 5343
Russian Liquid Glue 2286
Russian Money 6071
Russian Remedy for Chilblains 5842
Russian Weights and Measures 6072
Rust Joint Cement 2167
Rust, to protect Iron against. . .3267
Rust, to protect Steel against. .3306
Rust, to remove.from Flat-irons 6228
Rust, to remove, from Iron 3266
Rust, to remove, from Steel 3308
Rust-Spots, to remove, from
Marble 514
Ryan's Gleet-powder' 5314
Rye Whiskey, Distillationof931,&c.
Rye Whiskey, Imitation 688
Rypophagon Soap 603
Saccharine Carbonate of Iron. .4163
Saccharine Fermentation 16
Saccharometer, Baume's64,&c.,61.r>5
Saccharometer used by Brewers 858
Sachets, Vanilla Powder for. . .1105
Sachets, Violet Powder for 1106
Safflower-Lake Pigment 2683
Safranine Aniline Dye 2578
Sage-Green Dye for Cottons. .. 165
Sage Water, to distill.. ..1071, 1073
St. John Long's Liniment 5281
St. John's Bread Flavoring for
Liquors 666
St. John's Wort, Oil of 4752
St. John's Wort, Tincture of. . .4501
Sal Ammoniac 4222
Sal Enixum 3470
Sal Soda 4208
Sal Volatile, Spirit of 1096
Salicine 4021
Salmon-Color Dye for Silks. 270, 313
Salt of Lemons, Essential 378
Salt of Tartar 4181
Salt of Wormwood 4181
Salt Rheum Ointment 4962
Salt Rheum, Remedy for 5482
Salt, Table 4215
SAL — SCB
Salt, to, Meat 1602, &c.
Salt Water, to wash in 484
Saltpetre 41<M
Saltpetre, to purify 4195
Salts, Chemical 3853
Salts, Smelling 1089, &c.,
Salves or Cerates 4931, &c.
Salve, Black, or Healing 4971
Salve, Carbolic 4993, 4996
Salvo, Egyptiacum 5004
Salve, Family ; 4935
Salve for all Wounds 4936
Salve for Sore Breasts 4990
Salvo for the Lips 1170, &c.
Salve, German Black 5007
Salve, Goulard's 5476
Salve, Green Mountain 5345
Salve, Green Stick 4970, 4973
Salve, Healing 5285
Salve, Hemlock 4969
Salve, Neutral 5378
Salve, Red 4972
Salvo, Resin, Compound 5003
Salve, Russia 5343
Salve, Saturnine 4968
Salve, Savine 4997
Salve, Simple 4932
Salve, Spermaceti 4933
Salve, Turner's
.5289
Salve, Zinc 5379
Sampson's New York Pills 5300
SandBath 4
Sand-Soap Balls 575
Sandal Wood, Essential Oil of. 1465
Sandarach French Polish 2999
Santa Cruz Rum, Imitation ... 699
Santa Cruz Sour 926
Santonato of Soda 4649
Santonate of Soda, Syrup of .. .4650
Santonin Lozenges 5463
Santonin, Solution of 4794
Santonin, Syrup of 4668
Sap Green .-..2686
Saponine 6332
Sapphire, Imitation 2358, 2433
Sarcine 4014
Sarcosine 4013
Sard's Cement 2171
Sarsaparilla, Fluid Extract of. .4577
Sarsaparilla Syrup 1391
Sarsaparilla, Syrup of, Compound
4655.
Sarsaparilla Syrup for Soda-
water 1389, &c.
Sash Windows, to keep Open .. 62(18
Sassafras, Essential Oil or 1465
Sassafras Flavoring for Liquors 670
Sassafras Water, to distill 1071,1073
Satin Shoes, White, to clean... 455
Satins, to clean 460
Saturated Solution 29
Saturated Solutions, Boiling
Heat of 7
Saturation 27, 3846
Saturnine Cerate 4968
Sauces, General Receipts for.. 1753
Saunders' Petroleum Embroca-
tion 5402
Savino Cerate 4997
Savine, Essential Oil of 1465
Savine Ointment 4938
Savon au Bouquet 564
Savory Spices, Essence of 1764
Savory Spices, Tincture of 1765
Saws, Broken, to solder 3512
Saws, to sharpen and set 6254
Scalded Mouth, Remedy for... 5519
Scalds, Liniment for 5472
Scalds, Remedies for 5517, &c.
Scalo, Wash to cleanse the 1187
Scarlatina, Remedy for 5754
Scarlatina, Treatment of. .5751, &c.
Scarlet Aniline Dye 2582, &c.
Scarlet Dye for Cottons 155
Scarlet Dye for Feathers 330
Scarlet Dye for Silks 249, 252
Scarlet Dye for Woolens 196,199,322
Scarlet Fever, Preventive
against 5753
Scarlet Fever, Remedy for 5755
Scarlet Fever, Treatment of . .5750
Scarlet Spirit for Dyeing 199
Scented Oils ...1226
SCE— SKV
SHA — SIL
SIL — SIL
597
Scents for Candles 1351
Scents for Cigars 1350
Scents for Pomades 1261
Scents for Snuff 1352
Scents for Tobacco 1350
Scents, Mixed 1243
Schachts' Glycerinated Plasmas
or Ointments 5010, <fec.
Schachts' Glycerine of Starch
or Plasma 5009
Scheele's Green 2711
Schiedam Gin, Imitation 697
Schiff s Aniline Yellow 2580
Schiffs Table of Soda Solutions 628
Schist 4256
Schlippe's Salt 4133
Schuster's Alkalimeter or Acid-
imcter 82
Schwarz's Liniment for Burns. 5472
Scorched Linen, to restore 504
Scotch Whiskey, Imitation 691
Scott's Pills, Anderson's 5180
Scouring Balls 349, 374
Scovill's Syrup of Sarsaparilla.4656
Scrapers, Steel, to Make 6259
Scratch Brush for cleaning Met-
als 3381, 3706
Scratches, Treatment of 5498
Scriptural Money 6069
Scriptural Weights and Mea-
sures 6065, &c.
Scrofula, Remedy for 5773
Scullcap, Fluid Extract of 4601
Scupperuong Champagne 721
Scurvy-Grass Water, to distill. 1071
1073.
Sea-Salt, Imitation 4460
Sea-Salt, Pure 3209
Sea-Sickness, Remedy for 5339
Sea-Sickness, to prevent. 5235, 5779
Sea-Sicknessj to relieve 5778
Sea-Water 4459
Sea-Water, Artificial, for Aqua-
ria 6198
Sealing Cements for Bottles. ..2238
Sealing- Wax 2312, &c.
Sealing- Wax, Black 2310
Sealing-Wax, Blue 23*^2
Sealing- Wax, Brown 2321
Sealing-Wax for Bottle-corks. 929
Sealing-Wax for Diplomas 2327
Sealing-Wax, Gold-colored 2318
Sealing-Wax, Green 2324
Selling- Wax, Marbled 2319
Sealing-Wax, Perfumed 2325
Sealing-Wax, Proof Impres-
sions in 2328
Sealing-Wax, Red 2313, 2315
Sealing-Wax, to improve the
Appearance of 2326
Sealing-Wax, to polish 2314
Sealing-Wax Varnish 3044
Sealing-Wax, Yellow 2320
Searing's Photography on Wood
3165.
Secret Writing, Inks for.. 2533, &c.
Seeds, Cucumber and Melon, to
clean 1864
Seeds, Cucumber and Melon, to
prove 1863
Seeds, to prepare for Exporta-
tion 1884
Seidlitz Powders 4450
Seidlitz Water 4449
Seidschutz Water, Aerated 4452
Seignette's Salt 4213
Self-Feeding Filter 17, 3840
Sellers or Seltzer Water, Aera-
ted 4453
Seneka, Fluid Extract of. 4576, 4598
Seneka, Syrup of 4658
Senna and Jalap, Fluid Extract
of 4603
Senna Powder 5232
Senna, to disguise the Taste of. 5892
Separating Funnels 3831
Serpentaria, Fluid Extract of. .4576
Serpentaria, Tincture of 4525
Sesquicarbonates, see CARBONATES.
Sesquichlorides, see CHLOUIDES.
Sesquimuriates, see MURIATES.
Sesquioxides, see OXIDES.
S«ven Years' Itch, Remedy for 54 79
Shaker Soft Soap 009
Shallot Vinegar 1775
Shampoo Mixtures 1188, &c.
Shaving 6244
Shaving Cream 602, <tc.
Shaving, Lotion after 1158, 4833
Shaving, Lotion before 4833
Shaving Paste 1165
Shaving Soap 597, 603
Shaving Wash 1161
Shavings, to Acetify, for Vine-
gar 1736
Shawls, Woolen, to wash 406
Shear Steel 3275
Sheeps1 Pelts, to tan 646
Sheepskin Mats, to clean 420
Sheepskins, to prepare, for Mats C47
Sheet-Bend Knot, to tie a G261
Sheeting, to bleach 509
Shell Gold 3569
Shell Lime 3994
Shells, to clean 6187
Shells, to color 0188
Shells, to etch on 6186
Shellac, Filter for 2934
Shellac Ink 2484
Shellac, to bleach 1723
Shellac, to dissolve, in Ammo-
nia 6222
Shellac, to dissolve, in Spirit.. 2906
Shellac Varnish 2923, 2933, &c.
Sherbet 904
Sherbet Syrup 1421
Sherry Cobbler 922
Shinn's Bitter Wine of Iron. ..4707
Shirt-Bosoms, to starch 498
Shoemakers' Black 3080,4146
Shoemakers' Measures 5981
Shoes, Varnish for 2957, 2906
Shoes, White Satin, to clean . . 455
Shortness of Breath, to relieve . 5763
Shortness of Breath, toremedy5764
Shrub, Raspberry 905
Shute's Artificial Honey 1572
Sick-Chambers, Precautions on
Entering 1705
Sick-Chambers, to perfume 1709
Sick-Chambers, to purify. 1695, &c.
Sick Headache, Remedies for. .5702
Sick Stomach, Eemedy for 5781
Sifting 28, 4573
Signal Lights 2071, 2103
Silicate of Potash 2816
Silicate of Potassa for Strength-
ening Skeletons 2235
Silicate of Soda 2816
Silicium, to electroplate with.. 3767
Silk, Acid-stained, to restore
the Color of 6334
Silk, Aniline Dyes for 2574, &c.
Silk, Black, to clean 457
Silk, Black, to restore Color of 459
Silk, Colored, to clean 448
Silk, Family Receipts for Dye-
ing 304, <fec.
Silk for Trimmings, to stiffen. 470
Silk Lace, White, to clean 472
Silk Pocket-handkerchiefs, to
wash 477
Silk, Receipts for Dyeing.. 233, <Scc.
Silk, Solvent for 1937
Silk Stockings, White, to wash. 467
Silk, to bleach 1716, 1719
Silk, to bleach, by Sulphuration 1717
Silk, to clean 437, 460, 6342
Silk, to clean, with Old Kid-
gloves 456
Silk, to distinguish, in Mixed
Fabrics 299, <tc.
Silk, to electrogild on 3738
Silk, to electroplate on 3738
Silk, to electrotype on 3738
Silk, to gild on 3599, 3738
Silk, to prepare, for Dyeing 233
Silk, to prepare, for Washing. . 474
Silk, to preserve 6202
Silk, to remove Stains and Grease
from 338, 341, 350, &c., 6343
Silk, to silver 3599, 3627, 3738
Silk, to wash 475, 6378
Siller's Method of Clarifying
Honey 1570
Silver 3205
Silver Alloy, to recover, from
Amalgam 3554
Silver, Alloys of 3404, <kc.
Silver Amalgam 3535
Silver and Potassium, Cyanide
of 3698
Silver, Assay of 3206, &c.
Silver Assay, Solution for 3208
Silver Assay, Weights used for 5949
Silver Bath for Photography.. 3150
Silver, Chloride of 3214, 3216
Silver, Chloride of, to reduce
Metallic Silver from 4079
Silver Coins, to clean 3239
Silver, Cyanide of 3697
Silver Dust 3217, 3535
Silver Enamel, Black 2398
Silver, French 3428
Silver, French Coin 3408
Silver, Fulminating 2133
Silver, German, see GERMAN SIL-
VER.
Silver, Hard 3407
Silver Ink 2492
Silver Lace, to clean 414
Silver Leaf, to pulverize 2517
Silver, Liquid 2519
Silver Lustre for Pottery 2418
Silver, Mosaic 6361
Silver, Nitrate of 4077, 4080
Silver, Oxide of 4078
Silver, Permanent Black Writ-
ing on 2525
Silver, Polished, to frost 3218
Silver, Powder for Burnishing. 3223
Silver, Powder for cleaning. . . .3229
Silver, Pure, to obtain 3212, 3216
Silver Rain for Rockets 2057
Silver, Solder for 3493, <fec.
Silver Solution 3537
Silver Solution for Electroplat-
ing 3698, &c.
Silver Solution for Photo-
graphy 3133
Silver Solutions for Silvering. .3604
Silver, Solvent for 3213
Silver Stains, to remove, from
the Hands 387, 3141
Silver Stains, to remove, from
Linen 385, ic., 6339 &c.
Silver, Sulphate of 4081
Silver, Sulphuret of. 4082
Silver, Test for 3211
Silver, Test for, in Solutions ... 4083
Silver, Test for, on Plated-ware3714
3722.
Silver, to clean. 3220, 3230, &c., 6345
Silver, to clean, after Soldering 3222
Silver, to coat, with Plat in a. . .3670
Silver, to dissolve 3537
Silver, to extract, from Lead.. 3210
Silver, to gild 3577
Silver, to keep, from Tarnish-
ing 3224, 3232
Silver, to oxidize 3219
Silver, to purify 3214
Silver, to recover, from Copper. 3716
3721.
Silver, to recover, from old Pla-
ted Ware 3720
Silver, to recover, from Solu-
tions 3158, 316fi, 3702
Silver, to reduce 3214, 4079
Silver, to remove Stains from.. 3236
Silver, to remove Chalky ap-
pearance of, after Plating . . .3709
Silver, to separate, from Copper3245
Silver, to test 438C
Silver Tree, to make a 3221
Silver 'White Bronzing Pow-
der 3796
Silvering on Bone 3623
Silvering, Cold 3611
Silvering on Cotton 3627
Silvering, Dead, for Medals . . . 3719
Silvering on Flowers 3694
Silvering on Glass by Solutions. 3615
&c., 3631.
Silvering on Glass with Amal-
gam 3613
Silvering on Horn 3628
Silvering on Iron. ..3608, 3610, 3715
Silvering on Ivory 2006
598
SIL — SNA
Silvering on Leather 3629
Silvering on Metals. 3599, &c., 3632
3744.
Silvering on Mirrors, to repair. 3624
Silvering on Paper 3628
Silvering on Porcelain 3631
Silvering on Pottery 3630
Silvering on Silk 3599, 3627
Silvering on Steel 3715
Silvering on Various Substan-
ces 3626
Silvering on Wood 3612
Silvering on "Wool 3627
Simple Cerate 4932, 4939
Simple Cream-syrup 1426
Simple Syrup for Cordials 1385
Singer's Cement 2170
Singing Birds, Paste for 6191
Sirpt's Disinfecting Compound. 1702
Sirop Capillaire 1380
Size, Albuminous 1953
Size for Engravings to be Col-
ored 2647
Size for Gilding Frames, &c. . .3562
Size for Holland Linen 6328
Size for Painters 2757
Size for Paper 1951
Size for preparing Wood for
Gilding 3559
Size, Glue 2815
Size, Ivory 2009
Size, Oil, for Gilding 3571, 3580
Size, Parchment 3559
Size, to extract the, from Paper 6403
Size, Water, for Gilding 3572
Skeleton Leaves, to bleach 6169,6171
Skeleton Leaves, to prepare 6168,6170
Skeletons, to cement and
strengthen 2235
Skeletons, to prepare 6182
Skin, Artificial, for Cuts 5501
Skin, Cosmetics for the. ..1116, &c.
Skin, Eruptions on the, to cure. 5490
Skin, Irritation of the, to allay. 5491
Skin, Lotions for the 1141, &c.
Skin, Paints, or Rouges for the 1107
Skin, Spanish, for perfuming. . . 1355
Skin, to remove Tar, &c., from
the 6421
Skin, to remove Tattoo Marks
from the 5883
Skin, Vanilla Powder for the. .1105
Skin, VioletPowderforthe 1100,1106
Skins, Fur, to tan 645
Skins, Muskrat, to tan 648
Skins, Rabbit, to cure 649
Skins, Sheep, to prepare.for Mats 647
Skins, Sheep, to tan. 646
Skins, Skunk, to deodorize 660
Skunk-Cabbage, Tincture of. . .4498
Skunk Skins, to deodorize 660
Sky-Blue Dye for Cottons 131
Sky -Blue Dye for Silks 254
Sky-Blue Dye for Woolens 204
Sky-Lights, Leaky, to stop 6235
Slag, Furnace, Cement from... 2212
Slate-Color Dye for Family Use 331
Slate-Color Dye for Silks 275
Slate-Color Dye for Woolens. . . 216
Slate, Imitation, for Black-boards
6353.
Slates, to test 4385
Slaughter Houses, Disinfectants
for 1694
Slippery -Elm Poultice 5020
Slugs, to drive away 1923
Small-Pox, to prevent Pitting in 5759
Small-Pox, to remove Pitting af-
ter 5762
Small-Pox, Treatment of 5758
Small-Pox, Xylol for 6409
Smalt, to remove, from Old Signs 2782
Smalts for Pigment 2687
Smee's Battery 3667
Bmelling Salts 1089, &c.
Smelling Salts, Inexhaustible .1093
Smith's Itch Ointment 5240
Smith's Lavender Water 990
Smoking Fluid for Meat, <fcc., . 1601
Smoking Meat, &c., Directions
for 1600
Snails, to keep, from Garden-
beds 1862
SNA — SOD
Snake Bites, Cure for 5926
Snakeroot, Black, Fluid Extract
of 4575, 4592
Snakeroot, Black, Tincture of. 4514
Snakeroot, Virginia, Fluid Ex-
tract of 4576
Snakeroot, Virginia, Tincture
of 4525
Snow Cream for the Complexion 1131
Snuff, Cephalic 5333
Snuff, Scents for 1352
Snuff, to scent 1353
Snuffles, Cure for 5622
Soap, Almond 557, 592
Soap, Arsenical 1669, &c.
Soap, Art of Making 518, <fcc.
Soap, Bad, to improve 6308
Soap Balls 574, &c.
Soap Bubbles, to prepare Soap
for 6193, &c.
Soap by the Cold Process. .582, &c.
Soap, Cadmium Yellow for Col-
oring 2638
Soap, Camphorated Tincture of 4503
Soap, Carbolic Acid 581
Soap, Caution in using Medica-
ted 579
Soap, Chemical 546
Soap, Cinnamon 573
Soap, Cocoa-nut Oil . . .542, 593, 594
Soap, Composite, Patent 545
Soap, Domestic 549, 551
Soap, Essence of 604
Soap, Fig 601
Soap, Filled 538
Soap, Floating 568
Soap, Frangipanni 562
Soap, Glycerine 570
Soap Grease, to preserve. 536, 6309
Soap, Honey 560
Soap, Honey, Imitation 561
Soap, Labor-saving 616
Soap Liniment 4869, 5443, 6404
Soap Makers' Lye 519, 588, &c.
Soap Marble for Book-covers . 3123
Soap, Mercurial 577
Soap, Metallic, for Waterproof-
ing 1562
Soap, Mottled 576
Soap, Musk 571
Soap, Olive Oil 605
Soap, Orange-flower 572
Soap, Ox-gall 552
Soap, Palm Oil 543, 567
Soap, Poncine 565
Soap Poultice 5036
Soap, Resin 541
Soap, Rose 563
Soap, Rypophagon) 603
Soap, Sand 575
Soap, Shaving 602, &.C.
Soap, Soft 521, 600, &c,
Soap, Soft, to make, Hard 615
Soap, Spermaceti 566
Soap, Sulphur 578
Soap, Tallow 539, 544, 547
Soap, Tallow Resin 540
Soap, Toilet, Various Receipts
553, &c., 595.
Soap, to analyze 620
Soap, to clarify Fat for 529
Soap, to deodorize Fat for 530
Soap, to marble 556
Soap, to perfume, &c 555
Soap, to pulverize 619
Soap, to refine, for the Toilet. . 554
Soap, to test 617, &c.
Soap Tooth Paste 1311
Soap, Transparent 569
Soap, Turpentine 613
Soap, Turpentine, to nse 614
Soap, Washing 598, 599
Soap, Whale-oil, for destroying
Insects 580
Soap, White 591, 606
Soap, Windsor 558, 559
Soda 3978
Soda, Acetate of 4206
Soda and Antimony, Tartrate
of 4129
Soda, Carbonates of 4208
Soda, Caustic 102, 3979
Soda, Caustic, to test 584, &c.
SOD — SOL
Soda, Hydrate of 3979
Soda, Hyposulphite of 4211
Soda Lye, Analysis of 621, &c.
Soda Lye, Caustic, Home-made
548, 550.
Soda Lye, Caustic,Tablesof623,630
Soda Lye, Soapmakerg' 519
Soda, Liquor of 4785
Soda Mint 5397
Soda, Phosphate of 4210
Soda Poisons, Antidotes for... 5901
Soda, Potassio-tartrate of 4213
Soda, Santonate of 4649
Soda, Silicate of 2816, &c.
Soda Soluble Glass 2818, <fec.
Soda, Solution of 4785
Soda Solutions, Tables of.. 627, 628
Soda, Sulphate of 4207
Soda, Tests for 3980
Soda, to obtain 3979
Soda, Tungstate of 4212
Soda Water, Cream Syrups for 1425
Soda Water, Syrups for.. 1384, &c.
Sodic Hydrate 3979
Sodium, Bromide of 4214
Sodium, Chloride of 4215
Sodium, Fluid Alloy of. 3455
Sodium, Iodide of 4216
Sodium, Nitro-prusside of 4217
Soft Corns, to cure 5850
Soft Sealing-wax for Diplomas. 2327
Soft Soap 521, 600, &c.
Soft Soap, to make, Hard 615
Soft Solder 3479, 3500
Soft Soldering, see SOLDERING.
Soil, Composts for the 1821
Soil, Fertilizers for the ... 1820, &c.
Solder, Aluminum 3520, 3522
Solder, Brass 3507, 3512
Solder, Brass for 3371
Solder Drops 3519
Solder for Brass 3518
Solder for Copper ,,3498; 3517
Solder for Gold.... 3492
Solder for Iron 3512, 3515, &c.
Solder for Lead 3506
Solder for Pewter 3502
Solder for Silver 3493, 3495, &c.
Solder for Steel 3511, &c.
Solder for Tin 3499
Solder, Fusible in Boiling Water3504
Solder, Glaziers' 3503
Solder, Hard 3488, 3494, 3515
Solder, Plumbers' 3505
Solder, Soft 3479, 3500
Solder, Spelter 3488
Solder, Spelter, Flux for 3489
Solder, to make 3491
Soldering 3472, &c.
Soldering, see METAL to be soldered.
Soldering, Fluids for 3473, &c.
Soldering, Fluxes for 3471, 3476,
&c., 3480, &c., 3531.
Soldering, Hard 3488, 3490
Soldering Smooth Surfaces 3487
Soldering, Soft 3479, 3486
Soldering, to clean Gold after. 3200
Soldering, to clean Silver after 3222
Solferino Ink 2497
Solferino Syrup 1424
Solid Measure, see CUBIC Measure.
Solidified Glycerine 6298
Soluble Glass 2816, &c.
Soluble Glass, Double 2822
Soluble Glass for Stereo-chromic
Painting. .' 2823
Soluble Glass, Potash 2817
Soluble Glass, Potash and Soda,
to distinguish 2820
Soluble Glass, Soda 2818, 2819
Solution 29
Solutions for Anatomical Pre-
parations 1651, &c.
Solutions for cleaning Brass. . .3393
Solutions for coloring Gold 3197. &o.
Solutions for coloring Metals.. 3188
Solutions for Dyeing 121
Solutions for Electroplating, &c.,
3698, &c., 3726, &c.
Solutions for Photographic Pa-
per 3131, 3133
Solutions for Photography 3151,3160
3181, &c.
SOL — SPI
SPI — STA
599
Solutions for preserving "Wood 1680
Solutions. Medicinal and Chem-
ical 4769, &.C.
Solutions, Saturated, Boiling
Heat of 7
Solutions, Simple, see SUBSTANCE
to be dissolved.
Solvent for India-rubber 2947
Solvent for Gutta-percha 2947
Solveut for Silk, Paper, &c.,...1937
Solvent for Silver 3213
Soot Water for Rose-bushes. . .1841
Sore Throat, Remedies for 5063, 5068
Sore Throat, Syphilitic, Gargle
for 5609
Sore Throat, Ulcerated, to treat
5067, 5608.
Sores, Bed, Lotion for 5820
Sores, Bed, to relieve 5821
Sores, Bed, Treatment of 5503
Sores, Clay Dressing for 5511
Sores, Running, see ULCERS.
Soubeiran's Apparatus for Dis-
tilling Perfumed "Waters 1077
Soubeiran's Pomade 1283
Soubeiran's Veratrine Lotion.. 5406
Sound, Velocity of 6124
Soup Herbs, Essence of 1763
Soup Herbs, Extract of 1044
Soup Tablets, German 1633
Sour for Dyeing, to make a. . . 105
Sour, Santa Cruz 926
Sour Wine, to remedy 751, 754
Soy 1754
Soyer's Table Mustard 1786
Sozodont 1330
Spackman's Anti- dyspeptic Pills
5683.
Spackman's Cholera Mixture.. 5667
Spackman's Copaiba Mixture .5735
Spackman's Lotion 4823
Spackman's Salve for Piles 4987
Spackman's Tonic Mixture 5123
Spackman's Worm Syrup 5644
Spanish Bitters 825
Spanish Chocolate 6277, 6278
Spanish Cure for Rheumatism. 5537
Spanish Dentifrice 1311
Spanish Fly, see CANTHARIDES.
Spanish Money 6091
Spanish Skin 1355
Spanish Weights and Measures 6092
Spars, to find the Content of. . .6003
Sparteinc 4020
Spasm of the Bladder, to relieve
4521, 5741.
Spasms, Remedy for 5576
Spearmint, Essence of 4614
Spearmint, Essential Oil of 1465
Specific Gravity 47
Specific Gravity of Degrees of
Areometers, &c., see NAME
of Areometer.
Specific Gravity of Gases 49
Specific Gravity of Liquids 49
Specific Gravity of Percentages
of Alcohol 59
Specific Gravity of Powders. 50, 51
Specific Gravity of Solids 48, 50
Specific Gravity of Syrups, Ta-
ble of 1362
Specific Gravity, to convert De-
grees of Baumd into 66
Specific Gravity, to convert,
into Degrees of Baume' 67
Specific Gravitv, to find the
Weight of a Body from its. . 52
Spectroscopes, Liquid 2364
Specula, Polishing Powder for. 6356
Speculum Metal 3348, 3444
Spelter Solder 3488
Spencer's Method of Silvering
on Wood 3612
Sperm Oil for Lubrication 1540
Spermaceti Cerate 4933
Spermaceti, Imitation 1524
Spermaceti Ointment 4940
Spsrmaceti Soap 566
Spermaceti Stains, to remove. 343
Spermaceti, to detect, in Wax. 1582
Sperm atorrhosa, Cure for .5739,5746
Spheres. Surface and Contents of 6002
Spice Mills, to clean 423
Spiced Vinegar for Pickles 1791 ! Stains, Fruit, to remove. 360, 364, 369
Spices, Savory, Essence of 1764 Stains, Grease, to remove, from
Spices, Savory, Tincture of 1765
Spider Bites, to cure 5927
Spiders, Red, to protect Plants
from 1857
Spigelia, Fluid Extract of 4577
Spike, Oil of, Factitious 4873
Spirit Dyes for Cottons 141
Spirit Finings 703
Spirit of Ammonia, Aromatic. 1094
Spirit of Camphor. .4491, 4611, 4862
Spirit of Ether, Compound 4749
Spirit of Juniper, Compound ..5151
Spirit of Miudererus 5143
Spirit of Sal Volatile. 1096
Spirit ofSalt 365
Spirit, Proof 1436
Spirit, Scarlet 199
Spirit Stiffening for Hats 335
Spirit Varnishes 2903, &c.
Spirits, Barwood 110
Spirits, Distilled Aromatic 941
Spirits for finishing French Pol-
ish 3006
Spirits, Perfumed 940, 976, 998
Spirits, Plumb Ill, 112
Spirits, Red 108
Spirits, Tin, for Dyeing ...107. &c.
Spirits, Yellow 109
Spirituous Extracts 44
Spitting of Blood 5563
Splinters, to extract 5499
Spondumene 4239
Sponge, to bleach 1721
Spongio-Piline 5039
Spongy Platinum 3336
Spoons, French Alloy for 3427
Spoons, White Metal for 3416
Sportsman's Beef 1617
Sportsmen's Water-proofing for
Boots 3071
Spots, to remove, see STAINS.
Spotted Marbling for Books. . .3124
Sprains, Liniment for 4858, 4887
Sprains, Poultice for. 5025
Sprains, Remedy for 5494, <fec.
Sprains, Treatment of . . .5493, 5495
Sprinkles for Books, see MARBLES.
Spring Beer, to brew 883
Springs for Artificial Teeth . . .3406
Springs, Spiral, to temper 3288
Spruce Beer ...884, <tc.
Spruce Beer Powders . . .' 903
Spruce, Essence of 1 888
Square Measure ' 5982
Square Measure Expressed in
Square Metres 5983
Square Metres, sec ARES.
Square, to find the Area of a. .5989
Squibb's Ammonio-pyrophos-
phate of Iron 4737
Squibb's Compound Tincture of
Opium 4531
Squibb's Liquor of Iodide of
Iron 4703
Squill and Benzoin, Tincture of 4555
Squill, Fluid Extract of 4576
Squill, Fluid Extract of, Com-
pound 4593
Squill, Oxymelof. 4691
Squill Pills, Compound 4924
Squill Root, to dry 1889
Squill, Syrup of, Compound ...4652
Squill, Tincture of 4564
Squinting 5790
Squire's Chlorodyne 5203
Squire's Elixir 5228
Stables, Disinfectants for 1694
Stables, to ftrive Flies from 1923
Staining-, see ARTICLE to be stained.
Staining, Wood, to improve the
Color of 2857
Stains, Spots, &c.,to remove 337,&c.
Stains, all Non-metallic, to re-
move 372
Stains, Acid, on Silk, to restore
the Color 6334
Stains, Aniline, to remove 2566
Stains, Benzine, to remove 6344
Stains, Blood, to detect 6415
Stains, Blood, to remove 6341
Stains for Wood 2842
Paper 410
Stains, Grease, to remove, from
Silk 6343
Stains, Grease, to remove, from
Woolens 345
Stains, Hair-dye, to remove. 385, 387
6339.
Stains, Indelible Ink, to remove 129
385, 6339.
Stains, Ink, to remove. 375, 379, 384
Stains, Ink, to remove, from
Books 412, 6393
Stains, Ink, to remove, from
Mahogany 389, 393
Stains, Ink, to remove, from
Silver 3236, 3238
Stains, Iodine, to remove 371
Stains, Iron, to remove, from
Cottons 127, 375, &c.
Stains, Irpn-mould,to remove. ..375
Stains, Nitrate of Silver, to re-
move 385, 387, 3141,6339
Stains, Oil, to remove, from
Boards 394, 401
Stains, Oil, to remove, from Cot-
tons 126
Stains, Oil, to remove, from
Leather 359
Stains, Oil, to remove, from Mar-
ble 394, 401
Stains, Oil, to remove, from Pa-
per 359
Stains, Perspiration, to remove 505
Stains, Prepared Ox-gall for re-
moving 373
Stains, to remove, from Black
Crape 470
Stains, to remove, from Black
Dresses 470
Stains, to remove, from Bomba-
zine 470
Stains, to remove, from Kid
Gloves 438
Stains, to remove, from Knives 6322
Stains, to remove, from Silver. 3237
Stains, to remove, from AVhite
Marble 400, 403, 514, &c.
Stains, Vegetable, to remove.. 360
Stains, Varnish, to remove 339
Stains, Water, to remove, from
Engravings 6398, 6400
Stains, Wine, to remove 360,364,369
Stains, Yellow, to remove, from
Engravings 413
Stair Carpets, to clean 445
Stair Carpets, to keep, from
Wearing 6199
Stairs, Stone, to clean 428
Standard Government Measures,
Alloy of the 3434
Standard Weights and Measures,
5934, &c.
Standert's Red Mixture 5213
Stannates 4121
Stannic Acid 4121
Starch for Colored Articles . . . 49d
Starch for Linens and Cottons. 497
Starch Gum 4345
Starch, Gum-arabic 498
Starch, How to use 497
Starch Lustre 6329
Starch, Test for 4381
Starch, to clear 501
Starch, to remove, from Flat
Irons 6228
Starch, Waterproof 6310
Stars for Rockets, &c., 2058
Startin's Borax and Glycerine
Lotion '. 5452
Startin's Glycerine Lotion 4840,4842
Stavesacre Ointment 4956
Steam Boilers, see BOILERS.
Stearine 4325
Stearine Stains, to remove 343
Steel 3273
Steel, Alloys of 3423
Steel and Iron, to make Edge-
tools of 3280
Steel, Blistered 3274
Steel, Brown Tint for 3262
Steel, Cast 3276
600 S
Steel, Cement to join Leather to 2259
Steel Composition for Welding 3523
Steel Etching Fluid for. .2963, 32)
Steel! Flux for Soldering 3477
Steel, Flux for Welding 3531
Steel Rods, Weight of 6145
Steel Scrapers, to make 6259
Steel, Shear 3275
Steel, Solder for Soil
Steel, Solution for Gilding 35£
Steel, to anneal 32t
Steel, to blue 3278
§teel, to case-harden 3297, &c.
teel, to cement Steel to 2152
Steel, to clean 3272
Steel, to coat, with Copper 3636
Steel, to convert Iron into 3274
Steel, to distinguish Iron from. 3260
Steel, to electro-plate on 3711
Steel, to gild 3582
Steel, to keep, from Rusting . . .3306
3764.
Steel, to make, Blue 3278, 3290
Steel, to make, from Iron Scraps
3277.
Steel, to make, Straw-colored .3285
3290.
Steel, to remove Pin Spots from 6304
Steel, to remove Rust from 3308
Steel, to remove Scale from . . .3281
Steel, to restore, when Burnt . .3282
Steel, to straighten 3295
Steel, to temper 3285, &c.
Steel, to weld 3523
Steer's Opodeldoc 4869, 5443
Stencil Ink, Black 6366
Stephens' Infusion of Cayenne
Pepper and Salt 5312
Stephens' Patent Blue Ink 2481
Stewart's Syrup of Rhubarb. - .4640
Still for Perfumed Waters 1073,1077
Stills for General Purposes 13
Sticks for Plants, to prevent,
from rotting 1874
Sticky Substances, to remove,
. from Glass, &c., 6422
Sticky Substances, to remove,
from the Skin 6421
Stiff Neck, Cure of 5640
Stillingia, Fluid Extract of 4587
Stillingia, Syrup of : . . .4672
Stillingia, Syrup of, Compound 4673
Stillingia, Tincture of 4508
Stills, Lute for 2264
Stimulating Fomentation 5160
Stimulating Liniment 4888
Stings of Insects, &c., to cure .5927
Stockings, White Silk, to wash 4G7
Stokes' Liniment 5323
Stolba's Method of Nickel-coat-
ing 3659
Stolba's Method of Tinning
Metal 3644
Stolzel's Brown Stain for Wood 2854
Stomach, Acidity of the, to cor-
I rect 5685
Stomach Bitters 827
Stomach Pump, Simple. 5917
Stomach, Sick, Remedy for 5781
Stomachic Elixir 5118
Stone, Artificial 2196, 2219
Stone, Blue, to make 120
Stone, Cement for 2218, 2225
Stone, Cement to join Iron to. .2211
2215.
Stone-Color Dye for Cottons... 180
Stone-Color Dye for Silks 275
Stone-Color Dye for Woolens. . 215
Stone, Measurement of 6000
Stone, Oil of 5301
Stone Paper or Cloth 1934
Stone, Preservation of 6300
Stone Stairs, to clean t 428
Stone, to cement Metal to 2215,2222
2231.
Stone, to transfer Engravings
onto 6336
Stone Ware, to bronze 3827
Stoppers, Glass, to remove 6206
Storax, Essence of 962
Storax, Oil of 1238
Storax Pills 4925
Storax Pomade..., ...12G2
STO — SUL
Storax, Tincture of. 1016
Storm Glass 6184
Storm's Specific 5436
Stoughton's Bitters 819
Stout, Bitter Balls for 870
Stout, to brew 856
Stoves, Cement to fill Cracks in 2214
Stoves, to keep, from Rusting .6303
Straining 17
Stramonium, Fluid Extract of. 4574
Stramonium Ointment 494G
Stramonium, Tincture of. 4499, 4565
Strass for Artificial Gems 2352,2419
Straw-Color Dye for Cottons 157,184
Straw-Color Dye for Silks 268
Straw-Goods, to bleach ..1717, 1719
1720.
Straw-Goods, to clean 511
Straw-Goods, to dye, Black .. .6349
Straw Matting, to clean 418
Strawberries, to can 1636
Strawberry Beds, to protect,
from Snails 1862
Strawberry Essence, Artificial 1058
Strawberry Syrup 1374
Strawberry Syrup for Soda Wa-
ter 1398
Strawberry Syrup, Imitation.. 1402
Strawberry Vinegar 1780
Strawberry Wine 728
Strengthening Fomentation... 5158
Strengthening Plaster 5049
Stronger Alcohol, Officinal 1439
Strontia 3989
Strop for Razors 6246
Strops, Razor. Paste for 6247
Strychnine or Strychnia 4005
Strychnine, Antidotes for 5912
Strychnine, Solution of 5354
Stucco 2199, 2201
Stucco, to silver 3630
Stuff, Coarse, for Plastering.. .2197
Stuff, Fine, for Plastering 2198
Stuff, Gauge, for Mouldings . . .2200
Styes, Treatment of 5791
Styptics 5555, &c.
Styptic Collodion 5559, 5562
Styptic Cotton 5560
Styptic Paper 5561
Styptic Solution ...4816, 5430, 5558
Styrax, see STORAX.
Styrol 4315
Sublimate, Corrosive 4139
Sublimate, Corrosive, Antidotes
for 5902, 5903
Sublimate, Corrosive, Antisep-
tic Solution of 1664
Sublimation 30
Submarine Varnish 2955
Substantive Colors 93
Succinic Acid 4306
Sndorifics 5134, &c.
Suet, Mutton 524
Suet, to keep 6288
Suet, to purify 1253
Sugar, Adulteration of 4380
Sugar, Clarification of 6285
Sugar, Clarification of, for Sy-
rups 1357
Sugar, Degrees of Boiling, for
Candies 1368
Sugar in Urine, Test for. 4396, 4397
Sugar of Lead, Antidotes for . 5908
Sugar of Lead, see ACETATE OF
LKAD.
Sugar, Proportions of, for Sy-
rups 1360
Sugar Resin 4313
Sugar, Test for, in Aniline 2561
Sugar, to make Vinegar from. 1747
Sugar, to remove, from Aniline 2.562
Sulphates 3854
Sulphate of Alumina 4239
Sulphate of Ammonia 4223
Sulphate of Baryta 2697, 4231
Sulphate of Copper 4096
Sulphate of Copper, Antidotes
I for 5904
Sulphate of Copper Electrotyp-
ing Solution 3661
Sulphate of Indigo 98, 4791
Sulphate 01 Iron 4146
Sulphate of Iron, Solution of . .4168
SUL — SUN
Sulphate of Lithia 4239
Sulphate of Magnesia 424 1
Sulphate of Morphia, Solution of
4771, 4781.
Sulphate of Nickel 4177
Sulphate of Quinine 4265
Sulphate of Quinine Pills 4904
Sulphate of Quinine, Tests for. 4266
Sulphate of Quinine, to dissolve 5578
Sulphate of Silver 4081
Sulphate of Soda ; 4207
Sulphate of Zinc 4114
Sulphate of Zinc, Antidote for 5907
Sulphides, see SULFHURETS.
Sulphites 3864
Sulphite of Copper 4093
Sulphite of Soda Pills 4927
Sulpho-Cyanido of Ammonium 4226
Sulpho-Cyanide of Potassium.. 4205
Sulphur 4349
Sulphur, Amorphous or Brown 4350
Sulphur, Balsam of 5114
Sulphur Bath 5480
Sulphur, Black 4355
Sulphur, Flowers of 4354
Sulphur Ointment 4998
Sulphur Pills 4926
Sulphur, Precipitated 4351
Sulphur, Precipitated, to purify 4352
Sulphur, Roll 4353
Sulphur Soap 578
Sulphur, Sublimed 4354
Sulphur, to detect, in Coal Gas 4399
Sulphur Vivum 4355
Sulphur Wash 5274
Sulphuration 1717
Sulphurets 4349
Sulphuret of Ammonia 1203
Sulphuret of Ammonium 4228
Sulphuret of Antimony. . . 4132, 4133
Sulphuret of Arsenic 4356
Sulphuret of Barium 4237
Sulphuret of Carbon 43C9, 4311
Sulphuret of Iron . . .4053, 4147, &c.
Sulphuret of Magnesia 4242
Sulphuret of Mercury 2682
Snlphurct of Potassium 4204
Sulphuret of Silver 4082
Sulphuretted Hydrogen. .3870, 4052
Sulphuretted Hydrogen, Solu-
tion of 4793
Sulphuretted Hydrogen, Tests
for 4054
Sulphuretted Hydrogen, to ob-
tain 4053
Sulphuretted Hydrosulphate of
Ammonia 5353
Sulphuretted Lotion 4834
Sulphuretted Water 4462
Sulphuric Acid 3654
Sulphuric Acid, Alcoholized.. .4741
Sulphuric Acid, Anhydrous .. .3856
Sulphuric Acid, Aromatic 4740
Sulphuric Acid, Cement to re-
sist 6311
Sulphuric Acid, Commercial.. .3855
Sulphuric Acid, Concentrated. 3858
Sulphuric Acid, Dilute 3857
Sulphuric Acid, Nordhnusen's
Fuming 3858
Sulphuric Acid, Table of Per-
centages of 3859
Sulphuric Acid, Test for Nitric
Acid in 3861
Sulphuric Acid, to decolorize.. 3863
Sulphuric Acid, to purify 3860
Sulphuric Acid, to remove Ni-
tric Acid from 3862
Sulphurous Acid.. .1718, 3864, 4066
Sulphurous Acid, to obtain... 3865
Sulphurous Acid, pure Gaseous 3866
3868.
Sulphurous Acid, pure Liquid .3869
Sulphurous Acid, Solution of.. 3867
Sultana Cold-crenm 1127
Sumach, Fluid Extract of 4600
Sumach, Remedy for Poisoning
by 5930
Summer Complaint, Rem edy for 5659
Summer Suits, Ladies', to wash 6412
Sunburns, Borax Lotion for . . . ]]57
Sunstroke 5782
Sunstroke, Treatment of 5783
StTP — SYR
TAB — TAR
6O1
Superficial Measure, see SQUARE
MEASURE.
Surface Bronzing 3792, &c.
Swaim's Vermifuge 5246
Swansdown, to clean 657
Sweating Drops 5142
Sweating in Wines 757
Sweating, Infusion to produce. 5138
Sweating, Powder to produce .5145
Swedish Essence of Life 5337
Swedish Money 6090
Swedish Weights and Measures 6007
Sweet Cider 834
Sweet Cider, Imitation 849
Sweet Spirit of Nitre 4289
Swiss Money 6101
Swiss Weights and Measures.. 6102
Sydenham's Laudanum 5370
Sympathetic Inks for Secret
Writing 2533, &c.
Sympathetic Paper for Secret
Writing 1977, &c.
Syphilitic Rheumatism, Cure
for 5537
Syphilitic Sore-throat Gargle. .5609
Syphon Filter 17, 3840
Syphon for Decantation 10
Syringes, Glass, Cement for... 2166
Syrup, Alterative 5163
Syrup, Ambrosia 1422
Syrup, Apple 1412
Syrup, Arrack Punch 1377
Syrup, Banana 1413
Syrup, Blackberry 1404
Syrup, Cherry 1381
Syrup, Chocolate 1409
Syrup, Cinnamon 1379
Syrup, Claret 1423
Syrup, Coffee 1378, 1418
Syrup, Coffee Cream 1433
Syrup, Cough 5465, 5603
Syrup, Cream 1425, &c.
Syrup, Cream, Imitation 1430
Syrup for Champagne Wines . 715
Syrup for Hoarseness 5249
Syrup for Whooping Cough... 5633
Syrup, Ginger 1392, 1393
Syrup, Grape 1414
Syrup, Gum 1371
Syrup, Hive 5273
Syrup, Hock 1423
Syrup, Lemon 1375, 1387, 1388
Syrup, Maple 1408
Syrup, Nectar 1419, 1420
Syrup, Nectar Cream 1434
Syrup, Nursing 5308
Syrup of Assafcetida, Com-
pound 4686
Syrup of Balsam of Copaiba. . .4667
Syrup of Black Cohosh, Com-
pound 4654
Syrup of Blackberry,Aromatic4685
Syrup of Blood Root 5602, 5614
Syrup of Capsicum 4670
Syrup of Chamomile 4678
Syrup of Chloride of Iron 4660,4665
Syrup of Chloride of Iron and
Bark 4662
Syrup of Chloroform, Com-
pound 4659
Syrup of Citric Acid 4680
Syrup of Ether 4653
Syrup ofGuaiac 4676
Syrup of Hemlock, Compound 4G81
Syrup of Horseradish 4688
Syrup of Horseradish, lodin-
ized 4689
Syrup of Hydrate of Chloral. . .4679
Syrup of Hypophosphites, Com-
pound 4G41, 4643, 4G4G, &c.
Syrup of Iodide of Potassium
and Iron 4663
Syrup of Ipecacuanha 4651
Syrup of Ipecacuanha, Com-
pound 4682
Syrup of Lactato of Iron 4CG1
Syrup of Lactncarium 4666
Syrup of Milk 4687
Syrup of Orange Peel 1382
Syrup of Pepsine 4684
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron . . .4632
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron,
Compound 4644
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and
Lime 4635
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and
Manganese 4634
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and
Quinine 4628
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and
Strychnine 4630
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron,
Quinine and Strychnine 4629,4648
Syrup of Phosphate of Lime. . 4636
Syrup of Phosphate of Manga-
nese 4633
Syrup of Phosphate of Quinine 4627
Syrup of Phosphate of Zinc ...4626
Syrup of Queen's Root (Stillin-
gia) 4672
Syrup of Queen's Root, Com-
pound 4673
, Syrup of Rhubarb .4638, 4640, 4674
| Syrup of Rhubarb and Senna. 4639
Syrup of Santonate of Soda. . .4650
Syrup of Santonin 4668
Syrup of Sarsaparilla, Com-
pound 4655, 4656
Syrup of Seneka 4658
Syrup of Sesquichloridc of Iron 4665
Syrup of Squills, Compound... 4652
Syrup of Tannato of Iron 4664
Syrup ofTar 4669
Syrup ofTolu 4677
Syrup of Valerianate of Ammo-
nia 4671
Syrup of Yellow Dock 4083
Syrup, Orange 1410
Syrup, Orange Flower 1417
Syrup, Orgeat 1376, 1415
Syrup, Orgeat, Imitation 1416
Syrup, Osborne's 4657
Syrup, Pear 1411
Syrup, Pineapple 1405
Syrup, Pineapple, Imitation... 1406
Syrup, Plain 1370
Syrup, Pulmonary 5600
Syrup, Punch 1383
Syrup, Raspberry 1372, 1403
Syrup, Raspberry, Imitation ..1373
1403.
Syrup, Sarsaparilla 1389, &c.
Syrup, Sherbet 1421
Syrup, Simple 1370,1385, 1386
Syrup, Solferino 1424
Syrup, Strawberry.. 1374, 1398, &c.
Syrup, Strawberry, Imitation .1402
Syrup, Vanilla 1394, 1395
Syrup, Vanilla Cream 1432
Syrup, Wild Cherry 1396, 1397
Syrup, Wintergreen 1407
Syrup, Worm 5644
Syrups, Clarification of Sugar
for 1357
Syrups, Cream, for Soda Water 1425
Syrups, Degrees of Boiling 1368
Syrups, Filters for 1358
Syrups for Cordials and Liquorsl369
Syrups for'Soda Water... 1384, &c.
Syrups, Heat required for Ma-
king 1361
Syrups, Medicated 4625, &c.
Syrups, Preparation of ... 1356, &o.
Syrups, Proportions of Sugar
for 1360
Syrups, Table of Specific Grav-
ities of 1362
Syrups, to bleach 1367
Syrups, to determine the Densi-
ty of 1363
Syrups, to preserve 1364
Syrups, to prevent, from Candy-
ing 1365
Syrups, to prevent, from Fer-
menting 1366
Table Covers, to clean 452
Table for Graduating Bleaching
Liquors 1728
Table for Mixing Oil-colors . . .2762
Table for Reducing the Strength
of Alcohol ."... 60
Table, Gerlach's, of Soda Solu-
tions 627
Table Glass, to make 2345
Table, Lorme's, of Diluted Lyes 622
Table Mustard 1784
Table of Alloys of Copper 3348
Table of Boiling Heat of Li-
quids 6, 7, 6133
Tame of Capacity of Cisterns . 6012
Table of Caustic Potash Lyes. 629
Table of Caustic Soda Lyes ... 630
Table of Chemical Equivalents
and Symbols 6150, 6151
Table of Cubical Contents 6003. &c.
Table of Differences of Time. 6009
Table of Decimal Approxima-
tions 6119
Table of Equivalents of Acids. 81
Table of Equivalents of Alka-
lies 80
Table of Melting Heat of Lead
and Tin Alloys 3459
Table of Melting Heat of Met-
als 6133
Table of Percentages of Acetic
Acid 3897
Table of Percentages of Alcohol 55
56, 57, 59.
Table of Percentages of Ether 4286
Table of Percentages of Muri-
atic Acid 3886
Table of Percentages of Nitric
Acid 3878
Table of Percentages of Sulphu-
ric Acid 3859
Table of Properties of Metals . 3350
6143.
Table of Proportions for Ma-
king Glass 2352
Table of Specific Gravities of
Various Areometrio Degrees.. 57
&c., 6155, <fcc.
Table of Specific Gravities of
Syrups 1362
Table of Spherical Contents ..6001
Table of Weight and Hardness
of Gems, &c., 6136
Table of Weight of Rocks,
Minerals, &c., 6134,6135
Tables of Decimal Equivalents 5939
5979, 5985.
Tables of Weights and Mea-
sures 5934, &c.
Table, SchifFs,ofSodaSolutions628
Tables, Statistical 6119, <fcc.
Tablet Soap, Paris .595
Taffee, Everton 6283
Taffee, Molasses 6282
Taffee, to make 6281
Talmi Gold 3432
Tallow 523
Tallow Candles, to harden 637
Tallow Candles, to make.. 631, <feo.
Tallow for Candles 635
Tallow Resin Soap 540
Tallow Soap, to make 539, 547
Tallow, to bleach 1523
Tallow, to grain 532
Tallow, to harden 638, &c., 1523
Tallow, to harden and whiten. 639
1523.
Tallow, to keep, from turning
Rancid 535
Tallow, to purify 533
Tamara, Italian 1761
Tanks, to render, Watertight .2195
Tannates 3911
Tannate of Iron 4170
Tannate of Iron, Syrup of 4664
Tannate of Manganese, Oint-
ment of 4994
Tannic Acid 3911
Tannic Acid, to distinguish
Gallic Acid from 3908
Tannic Acid, to obtain 3912
Tannin 3911
Tannin, Gallic Acid from 3907
Tannin Ointment 4986
Tanning, Receipts for 642, &c.
Tansy Water, to distill. . .1071, 1073
Tape Worm 5649
Tape Worm, to expel 5432
Tape Worm, to treat 5650
Tapestry, to clean 449
Tapioca Photographic Paper. .3157
Tar, Inhalation of, for Consump-
tion 5613
602 TAR — THK
Tar Lotion 4845
•Tar Ointment 4960
Tar Ointment, Compound. 5288
Tar Pomade 1281
Tar, Syrup of 4669
Tar, Tincture of 4552
Tar, to remove, from Glass 6422
Tar, to remove, from the Skin. 6421
Tar Water 4764
Taraxacum, Elixir of 4729, 4736
Taraxacum, see DANDELION.
Tarragon Mustard 1787
Tarragon Vinegar 1771
Tartar Emetic 4129
Tartar Emetic, Antidotes for. 5900
Tartar Emetic Ointment 4995
Tartar, Red 4197
Tartar, White 4197
TartaricAcid 3929
Tartario Acid, to detect, in Cit-
ric Acid 3931
Tartaric Acid, to obtain 3930
Tartrates 3929
Tartrate of Potassa 4196, 4197
Tartrate of Potassa and Soda. 4213
Tartrate of Soda and Antimony4129
Tartrate of Soda, Solution of. .4807
Tattoo Marks, to remove 5883
Taylor's Cream Syrup. 1427
Taylor's Remedy for Deafness. 5809
Tea, Balm 5135
Tea, Blessed Thistle 5140
Tea, Boneset 5139
Tea, Flaxseed 5589
Tea, German, for the Chest . . .5425
Tea, Hamburg 5418
Tea, to flavor C302
Tea, to increase the Strength of 6301
Tea, to test 4374
Teeth and Gums, to preserve
the 5866
Teeth, Amalgams for stopping 3549
Teeth, Artificial, Pivots for... 3405
Teeth, Artificial, Springs for.. 3406
Teeth, Decayed, to deodorize. .5865
Teeth, Electuaries for the 1305, &c.
Teeth, Pastes for the 1305, &c.
Teeth, Powders for Cleaning
the 1288, &c.
Teeth, to cleanse the Spaces be-
tween the 1334
Teeth, to fill or plug 5882
Teeth, to remove the Yellow
Color from the 1296
Teeth, "Washes forthe!323,&c.,1335
Teft's Dental Anaesthetic 5433
Tempering Steel and Tools 3285, &c.
Tenacity of Metals 3356, 6143
Terpine 4312
Tersulphates, see SULPHATES.
Tersulphides or Tersulphurets, see
S0LPHURET8.
Test Papers 4408, &c.
Test Paper, Alkanet 4427
Test Paper, Brazil- Wood 4409
Test Paper, Buckthorn 4410
Test Paper, Cabbage 4426
Test Paper, Cherry-juice 4411
Test Paper, Dahlia 4412
Test Paper, Hollyhock Flower 4428
Test Paper, Indigo 4413
Test Paper, Iodide of Potassium
4414.
Test Paper, Iodine and Starch 4415
Test Paper, Lead 4416
Test Paper, Litmus, Blue 4417
Test Paper, Litmus, Eed 4418
Test Paper, Mallow 4419
Test Paper, Manganese 4420
Test Paper, Rhubarb 4421
Test Paper, Rose 4422
Test Paper, Starch 4423
Test Paper, Starch and Iodine 4415
Test Paper, Sulphate of Iron ..4424
Test Paper, Turmeric 4425
• Testing, see AHTICLE to be tested.
Tests or Reagents ..4372, &c., 4408
Tetter Ointment 5241
Tetter, Remedy for 5485, &c.
Thebaine 4001
Thee, Brust 5425
Theine 4010
Theobromine 4011
THE — TIN
Thermometers 85, &c.
Thibault's Balsam 5305
Thirlault's Glycero-pomade of
Iodide of Potassium 5373
Thistles on Gravel Walks, to de-
stroy 1870
Thomas' Cathartic Pills 5316
Thomas' Colocynth and Man-
drake Pills 5190
Thompson's Bitters 5129
Thompson's Composition Pow-
der 5178
Thompson's Hot Drops 5179
Thompson's Number Six 5177
Thorn Apple, Fluid Extract of 4574
Thorn Apple, Tincture of 4499,4565
Thousand Flowers, Balm of . . .1327
Thread Lace, to clean 473
Thread Marble for Book Edges 3114
Thrips on Cucumber Plants, to
kill 1858
Thwaite's Antiseptic Fluid 1659
Tick, Bed, to clean 468
Timber, Feet of Inch Board in 6006
Timber, Round, Content of 6003
Timber, Statistics of 6138
Timber, to protect, from Dry
Rot 1679
Time. Ancient Jewish Division
of 6070
Time, Measure of 6007
Time, Nautical Division of 6011
Time, Roman Division of 6064
Time, Table of Differences of -6009
Tin 3314
Tin, Acid Preparations of 107
Tin, Alloys of 3421, 3426
Tin, Alloys of, for Dentists 3435
Tin, Alloys of, Melting Heat of 3459
Tin Amalgam 3542, 3544, 3549, 3552
Tin Castings, Bronzing Liquid
for 3790
Tin, Chlorides of 4123
Tin, Crystallized 3320
Tin, Feathered 107, 3319
Tin, Flux for Soldering.. 3476, 3482
Tin, Frosted. 3321
Tin, Grain 3316
Tin in Tears 3316
Tin, Ink for Writing on 6365
Tin, Lacquer for 3057
Tin, Muriates of 4123
Tin, Nitrate of 4121
Tin, Oxides of 4119, &c.
Tin Pipes, Flux for Soldering. 3531
Tin, Powdered 3317
Tin Putty 4122
Tin, Solder for 3479, 3499
Tin Spirits for Dyeing 107
Tin, Tests for Pure 3315
Tin, Tests for the Salts of 4125
Tin, to coat Copper and Brass
with 3644, <fcc.
Tin, to coat Iron with 3638, &c.
Tin, to electro-gild on 3731
Tin, to electro-plate with 3750
Tin, to separate, from Copper .3244
Tin Tree, to make a 3322
Tin Vessels, to clean 3252
Tincture, Acid Aromatic 4731
Tincture, Antacrid 5444
Tincture, Antispasmodic 5270
Tincture, Cholera 5674
Tincture, Diarrhoea 5654
Tincture, Dover's 4543
Tincture, Febrifuge 5195
Tincture, Golden 5251
Tincture, Nervous 5574
Tincture of Aconite Leaves . . .4481
Tincture of Aconite Root 4482
Tincture of Aloes 4537
Tincture of Aloes and Myrrh. .4538
Tincture of Ambergris 963, 1024
Tincture of Arnica 4483
Tincture of Arnica Flowers. . .4509
Tincture of Assafcetida 4480
Tincture of Balm of Gilead 4535
Tincture of Balsam of Peru 1020
TinctuH? of Balsam of Tolu 1022
Tincture of Belladonna 4484
Tincture of Benzoin 1019
Tincture of Benzoin, Compound 4567
Tincture of Black Cohosh 4514
TIN — TIN
Tincture of Black Pepper, Com-
pound 4495
Tincture of Bloodroot 4524
Tincture of Blue Flag 4518
Tincture of Camphor 4611
Tincture of Cantharides 4539
Tincture of Capsicum 4486
Tincture of Cardamom. . . 1023, 4540
Tincture of Cardamom, Com-
pound 4568
Tincture of Castor 4541
Tincture of Catechu 4547
Tincture of Chiretta 4516
Tincture of Chloride of Iron . . 4504
Tincture of Cimicifnga Racemo-
sa 4514
Tincture of Cinchona 4487
Tincture of Cinchona, Compound
4488.
Tincture of Cinchona, Sweet . .4544
Tincture of Cinnamon 4548
Tincture of Colchicum 4549
Tincture of Colocynth 4554
Tincture of Columbo 4550
Tincture of Conium 4489
Tincture of Coriander 1014
Tincture of Cubebs 4551
Tincture of Dewberry, Com-
pound 4497
Tincture of Digitalis 4490
Tincture of Dog- wood 4553
Tincture of Ergot 4517
Tincture of Gelseminum 4493
Tincture of Gentian, Compound4569
Tincture of Ginger 4558
Tincture of Grain of Paradise. 1021
Tincture of Guaiac 4505, 5441
Tincture of Hellebore, American
4496, 4515.
Tincture of Hellebore, Black ..4506
Tincture of Hemlock 4489
Tincture of Hemp 4485
Tincture of Henbane , .4511
Tincture of Hops 4510
Tincture of Iodine 4491
Tincture of Iodine, Compound. 4570
Tincture of Jalap 4559
Tincture of Kino 4512, 4556
Tincture of Kino, Compound ..4502
4557.
Tincture of Leopard's Bane . . .4509
Tincture of Lobelia 4513
Tincture of Lupulin 4519
Tincture of Mandrake 4507
Tincture of Monesia 4500
Tincture of Musk 1025
Tincture of Myrrh 4560
Tincture of Nut Gall. 4561
Tincture of Nutmeg 1015
Tincture of Nux Vomica 4520
Tincture of Opium 4529
Tincture of Opium, Ammonia-
ted 4530
Tincture of Opium, Camphora-
ted 4527
Tincture of Opium, Compound. 4531
Tincture of Pellitory, Compound
4532.
Tincture of Pellitory, Ethereo-
alcoholic 4533
Tincture of Podophyllin 4507
Tincture of Prickly -ash Berries4536
Tincture of Quassia. 4562
Tincture of Queen's Root 4508
Tincture of Rhatany 4563
Tincture of Rhubarb 4522
Tincture of Rhubarb, Alkaline 5356
Tincture of Rhubarb and Senna 4523
Tincture of Rhubarb, Aqueous 4546
Tiucture of Rhubarb, Sweet. . .-4545
Tincture of St. John's Wort. . .4501
Tincture of Sanguinaria 4524
Tincture of Serpentaria 4525
Tincture of Skunk-cabbage . . .4498
Tincture of Snake-root, Black .4514
Tincture of Snake-root, Virginia
4525.
Tincture of Soap,Camphorated4503
Tincture of Spices 1765
Tincture of Squill 4564
Tincture of Squill and Benzoin 4555
Tincture of Stillingia 4508
Tincture of Storax or Styrax . .1016
TIN — TEA
TRA — TUR
TTJR — VAR
603
Tinctnre of Stramonium .4499, 4565
Tincture of Tar 4552
Tincture of Tobacco 4521
Tincture of Tola 4566
Tincture of Turkey Corn 4492
Tincture of Valerian 4526, 4542
Tincture of Vanilla 1018
Tincture of Veratrum Viride..4496
4515.
Tincture of Yellow Jasmine. . .4493
Tincture, Tonic 5126
Tincture, Universal 4494
Tinctures 35
Tinctures, Ammoniated 35
Tinctures by Digestion 40
Tinctures by Infusion 36
Tinctures by Maceration 39
Tinctures by Percolation or
Displacement 41
Tinctures, Filter for 17
Tinctures, Medicinal 4479, &c.
Tinctures, Proportions oflngre-
dients for 42
Tinctures, to prepare 35
Tingry's Essence Varnish 2915
Tinning, Cold 3643
Tinning, Directions for... 3638, &c.
Tinning, Metal for 3453
Tissue, Electric 6330
Tobacco, Empyreumatic Oil of 1465
Tobacco, Oil of 4752
Tobacco Ointment.. 4961, 5290, &c.
Tobacco, Tincture of 4521
Tobacco, to fumigate Plants
with 1852
Tobacco, to scent 1350
Toddy 1435
Toe Nails, Ingrowing 5827
Toe Nails, Ingrowing, to cure. 5828
Toe Nails, Ingrowing, to pre-
vent 5829
Toilet Soap, Receiptsfor553,&c.,601
Toilet Soap, to perfume 555
Tolu, Balsam of. Factitious 5102
Tolti, Balsam of, Test for 5103
Tolu, Syrup of 4677
Tolu, Tincture of 4566
Tomato Catsup 1768
Tomato Pickles 1803
Tombac, Red 3442
Tombac, White 3443
Tomb Stones, Ink for 2516
Tonics 5117
Tonic after Drinking to excess 5818
Tonic Elixir 5118,5407
Tonic, Hair 1180
Tonic Infusion 5120
Tonic Mixture 5123
Tonic Mixture, Aromatic 5124
Tonic, Orange 5122
Tonic Pills 5125, 5166, 5216
Tonic Tincture 5126
Tonquin Oil 1246
Tonquin Pomade .*. 1246
Tools, Edge, Caution in grind-
ing 6253
Tools, Edge, to grind 6252
Tools, Edge, to make, of Steel
and Iron 3280
Tools, Edge, to sharpen 6251
Tools, Emery Wheels for grind-
"r.
Tools, to temper 3285, <fec.
Tooth Ache, Remedies for 5867, &c.
Tooth Cements 5878, cfco.
Tooth Pastes 1305, <fcc.
Tooth Powders 1288, &c.
Tooth, to kill the Nerve of a. . .5877
Tooth Washes 1323, &c.
Topaz, Imitation 2354, 2434
Tortoiseshell, Imitation 2016
Tortoiseshell, to join 2018
Tortoiseshell, to polish 2019
Touch Paper for Fireworks . . . 2059
Touch Stones for assaying Gold 31 90
Toy Varnish, Whito 2916
Tracing Paper 1927, &c.
Tragacanth, Mucilage of 2310
Tralles' and Gendar's Hydrome-
ters Compared 58
Tralles' Hydrometer 54
Tralles' Table of Percentages
of Alcohol . 59
Transfer Paper 1926
Transfer Varnish 2919
Transparent Cement 2236, 2252
Transparent Colored Varnishes2941
Transparent Enamels 2392
Transparent Paper 1929
Transparent Pomade 1273
Transparent Soap 569
Trap to catch Fleas 1915
Trap to catch Muskrats 1896
Trap to catch Rats 1894
Trapezoids, Area of 5991
Traumatic Elixir 5419
Traumaticine 5502
Trays, Old, to japan 3037
Tree Marble for Book-covers . .3117
Trees, Blight on, to remedy 1844,1846
Trees, Clay for Grafting 1882
Trees, Gumming in, to cure... 1873
Trees, Large, to transplant 1890
Trees, Mildew on, to prevent.. 1849
Trees, Moss on, to destroy 1860
Trees, to keep Cattle from 1855
Trees, to prevent Ants from in-
juring. 1847
Trees, Wall, Nails for 1885
Trees, Wax for Grafting 1880
Trees, Wounds in, to heal 1879
Triangles, Area of 5990
Tricopherous 1250
Triplex Pills 5184
Trituration 31
Trommer's Test for Sugar in
Urine 4396
Tronchin's Cough Syrup 5465
Troth's Cholera Mixture 5669
Trotter Oil 1513
Trotter Oil, to refine 1514
Trotter Oil, to test 1498
Trough, Pneumatic 4031
Troughs, Acid, Cement for Coat-
ing 2232
Troughs, Galvanic, Cement for 2170
Trousseau's Martial Aerated
Water 4475
Troy Weight 5942
Troy Weight Compared with
Apothecaries 5945
Troy Weight Compared with
Avoirdupois 5944, 5950
Troy Weight Compared with
Metrical 5946
Tuberose, Essence of 954
Tuberose Pomade: 1263
Tuberose Roots, to dry 1889
Tuberose Roots, to preserve ..1888
Tubes, Glass, to bend 3851
Tubing, Rubber, to make, Gas-
tight 4033
Tulip Roots, to preserve 1888
Tumors, to remove 5769
Tungstates 4212
Tungstate of Soda 4212
Tungstic Acid 4212
Tungstic Glue 2281
Turkey Corn, Tincture of 4492
Turkey Red, French Process for
Dycmg 189
Turkish Money 6106
Turkish Weights, &c 6107, <fcc.
Turlington's Balsam 5304
Turnbull's Prussian Blue 2674
Turner's Cement 2228
Turner's Cerate 5289
Turners' Work, to polish 3009
Turning, Brass for 3372
Turning Metals, Petroleum for 3449
Turnips, Artificial Manure for. 1827
Turnips, to preserve 1888
Turpentine 4316
Turpentine, Balsam of 5099
Turpentine, Bleaching by 510
Turpentine Lotion 5401
Turpentine, Oil or Spirit of 4317
Turpentine Ointment, Venice. 4958
Turpentine Soap 613
Turpentine, to purify 4319
Turpentine Varnish 2909
Turpentine, Venice 4318
Turpentine, Venice, to remove,
from Glass 6422
Turpentine, Venice, to remove,
from the Skin 6421
Turq nois, Imitation 2435
Tutenag 3452
Tutty Powder 4113
Twaddell's Areometer or Hy-
drometer 68, 6164
Tweed Cloaks, to waterproof . 1554
Twelvetree's Washing Fluid.. 479
Type Metal 3419
Type Metal, to electroplate on. 3711
Typhoid Fever, Remedy for ...5747
Ulcers, Clay Dressing for 5511
Ulcers, Foul, to deodorize 5508
Ulcers from Cyanide of Potas-
sium, to cure 5918
Ulcers intheLeg,Treatmentof5510
Ulcers in the Mouth, Wash for 5509
Ulcers, Remedy for 5507
Ulcers, Treatment of 5505, 5506
Unbleached Muslin, to bleach. 509
Underwood's Manifold Copying
Process 1949
Universal Calender 6147
Universal Cement 21 75
Universal Composts for the Soil 1823
Universal Plaster 5277
Universal Tincture 4494
Universal Wound Balsam 5096
Upton's Gold Detergent 3598
Urea 4323
Urea, Nitrate of. 4323, 4324
Ure's Diamond Cement 2154
Ure'slnk 2472
Ure's Table of Copper Alloys. .3348
Ure's Table of Percentage of
Muriatic Acid 3886
Ure's Table of Percentage of
Nitric Acid 3878
Ure's Test for the Strength of
Acetic Acid 76, 77
Urethra, to apply Caustic to the 5737
Urinating, Difficulty in, to rem-
edy 5740
Urine, Incontinence of, to cure 5743
Urine, Test for Bile in 4398
Ifrine, Test for Sugar in .4396, 4397
Urns, to clean 408
Utensils for Brewing 857
Utensils for Brewing, to clean
&c 6333
Utensils for Leaf- gilding 3557
Utensils for Paper-hanging .. .2812
Uva Urei, Fluid Extract of . . .4577
Uvanterin Brown Dye far Cot-
tons 145
Valerian and Carbonate of Am-
monia, Mixture of 5575
Valerian, Essential Oil of 1465
Valerian, Fluid Extract of 4574
Valerian, Tincture of 4526, 4542
Valerian Water, to distill 1071, 1073
Valerianates 4305
Valerianate of Ammonia, Elix-
ir of 4728, 4732, &c.<
Valerianate of Ammonia, Solu-
tion of 5390
Valerianate of Ammonia, Syrup
of 4671
Valerianate of Amyl 4303
Valerianate of Ethyl 4300
Valerianic Acid 4305
Valuable Liniment 4866
Valuable Lotion for Wounds . .4853
Vanilla Beans.to grind 25, 965, 6279
Vanilla and Almond Chocolate 6278
Vanilla Cream Syrup 1432
Vanilla, Essence of 965
Vanilla, Extract of 1042
Vanilla Flavoring for Liquors 668
Vanilla, Fluid Extract of 4607
Vanilla Oil 1247
Vanilla, Oil of 1239
Vanilla Pomade 1247, 12G2, 1271
Vanilla Powder for Sachets,
&c 1105
Vanilla Svrup for Soda Water 1394
Vanilla, Tincture of 1018
Vanilla Tooth Paste 1309
Vanilla Water, to distill 1071, 1073
1078.
Vanille, Pastilles a la 1344
Varnish, Amalgam, for Casts.. 3548
604r VAE— VBG
Varnish, Amber Oil 2879, &c.
"Varnish, Amber Spirit, . .2930, &o.
Varnish, Aniline Black 2943
Varnish, Aniline Colored 2942
Varnish, Bookbinders' 2933
Varnish, Cabinet 2893
Varnish, Canada 2921
Varnish, Carriage 2877, <fcc.
Varnish, Chinese, Imitation. .. 2923
Varnish, Collodion 2922
Varnish, Colored Oil 2901
Varnish, Colored Spirit 2942
Varnish, Copal Oil 2876
Varnish, Copal Spirit 2905, &c.
Varnish, Crystal Spirit 2910
Varnish, Dextrine 2927
Varnish, Etching 2959, &c.
Varnish, Flexible Spirit'.. 2948, &c.
Varnish, Flexible Oil ... .2890, 2891
Varnish for Boots and Shoes. .2957
2966.
Varnish for Card Ornaments.. 2939
2965.
Varnish for Casks, Inside of.. 2970
Varnish for Engravings, &c., .2944
2964.
Varnish for fastening Leather
on Rollers 2958
Varnish for fixing Drawings . 2924
Varnish for Grates 2902
Varnish for Gun-barrels 2954
Varnish for Harness 2967
Varnish for Hot-bed Frames. .2898
Varnish for Iron "Work. .2900, 2956
Varnish for Leather 2967, &e.
Varnish for Metallic Paint . . .2894
Varnish for Paintings... 2911, 2914
Varnish for Paper-hangings ..2933
Varnish for Photographs 2932, 3153
3161.
Varnish for Printers' Ink 2897
Varnish for "Waterproof Goods2885
Varnish, Green Transparent . .2941
Varnish, Gutta-percha 2888
Varnish, Hair 2892
Varnish, India-rubber Oil 2866, &c.
2889, &c.
Varnish, India-rubber Spirit . .2948
Varnish, Italian 2896
Varnish, Lac "Water 2940
Varnish, Mahogany 2895
Varnish, Map 2920
Varnish, Mastich 2911, &c.
Varnish, Metallic 2953
Varnish, Sealing "Wax 3044
Varnish Stains, to remove 339
Varnish, Submarine 2955
Varnish, to, Drawings,Paper,&c.,
2965.
Varnish, to, Furniture 2972, &c.
Varnish to Imitate Ground
Glass 6408
Varnish, to remove, from Paint-
ings 405
Varnish, Transfer or Mordant. 2919
2928.
Varnish, Transparent Colorless 2935
Varnish, Transparent Colored. 2942
Varnish, Turpentine Spirit 2909
Varnish, Wax 2936
Varnish, "White Spirit 2916, &c.
Varnished Paint, to clean 436
Varnished Surfaces, to polish .2976
Varnishers' Amalgam 2953
Varnishes 2867, &c.
Varnishes, Boiled Oil for . . . 2872
Varnishes, Oil 2874, &c.
Varnishes, Oil, Cautions in ma-
king 2873
Varnishes, Spirit 2903, &c.
Varnishes, to clarify Oil for 2869
Varnishes, to prepare Linseed
Oil for 2868
Varnishing 2971
Varnishing, Brushes for 2977
Varnishing, to size Paper for.. 1951
Vat, Blue, to make np a 119
Vegetable Antibilious Pills 4907
Vegetable Caustic 5075, 5825
Vegetable Cement 2223
Vegetable Fibre, to detect, in
Mixed Fabrics 294
Vegetable Infusions, to filter.. 3833
VEO — VIN
Vegetable Juices, to filter 3834
Vegetable Juices, to obtain 45
Vegetable Liquids, 'to decolor-
ize 1751
Vegetable Oils, to bleach . 1504, &c.
Vegetable Oils, to purify, for
Lamps 1494
Vegetable Stains, to remove. . . 360
Vegetable Substances, to silver 3626
Vegetables, to can 1636
Veils, Black Lace, to wash 466
Veils, "White Lace, to clean . . . 471
Vellum, see PARCHMENT.
Velpeau's Black Caustic 5330
Velpeau's Diarrhoea Remedy.. 5653
Velpeau's Erysipelas Lotion... 5427
Velvet, to raise the Pile on 463
Velvet, to remove Grease from 351
355.
Veneers, Ivory, to glue on 2297
Veneers, Old, to raise 6220
Veneers, to dye 2837, &o.
Venetian Red 2704
Venice Turpentine 4318
Venice Turpentine Ointment.. 4958
Venice Turpentine, to remove,
from Gloss 6422
Venice Turpentine, to remove,
from the Skin 6421
Venus, Pomade de 1164
Veratrine or Veratria 4007
Veratrine, Acid Solution of ...5313
Veratrine Lotion 5406
Veratrum Viride, Fluid Ex-
tract of 4575
Veratrum Viride, Tincture of .4496
4515.
Verdigris 3240
Verdigris, Antidote for 5904
Vermifuges 5245,5426,5428,5432,5643
Vermifuge Pills 5648
Vermilion, to make 2681
Vermilion, to preserve 2682
Vermin in Children's Heads, to
destroy 1919
Vermin Ointment 5395
Vermin on the Body, to destroy 1920
Vermin, Phosphorous Paste for 1899
Vermin, to exterminate. . .1892, &c.
Vessels containing Kerosene,
to clean 1537
Vessels, AVooden, to remove
the Taste of 6201
Vessels, Iron, to 'tin 3638
Vesuvine Aniline Dye 2594
Vichy Salts 4458
Vichy "Water, Aerated 4455
Vinaigre Aromalique 1087
Vinaigro de Quatre Voleurs.. .5193
Vinegar, Acetified Shavings for
Making 1736
Vinegar, Alcohol, to improve.. 1743
Vinegar, Aromatic 1083, &,c.
Vinegar, Artus' Process for . . .1742
Vinegar, Black, for Bookbind-
ers 3118
Vinegar by the Quick Method 1733
Vinegar, Distilled 1746
Vinegar for Sauces 1771, <tc.
Vinegar from Alcohol 1741
Vinegar from Cider 1740
Vinegar from Sugar 1747
Vinegar, General Directions for
making 1732, &c.
Vinegar Generator, to make a 1734
Vinegar, Hints for making 1738
Vinegar, Marseilles 5198
Vinegar of Cantharides 1178
Vinegar Poultice 5037
Vinegar, Raspberry 1779, &e.
Vinegar, Spiced, for Pickles... 1791
Vinegar, Tests for 1748
Vinegar, Thieves' 5198
Vinegar, to decolorize 3751
Vinegar, to find the Strength of
1750
Vinegar, to keep up a supply of 1744
Vinegar, to make in Three "Weeks,
1745.
Vinegar, to make quickly 1739
Vinegar. "Weak, to strengthen. 1749
Vines, Bleeding in, to remedy. 1878
Vinous Fermentation 16
TIO — "WAS
Violet Aniline Dyes 2607
Violet Cement 2191
Violet Coloring for Brass 3385
Violet Coloring for Bronze 3784
Violet Dye for Cottons 190
Violet Dye for Ivory 1992
Violet Dye for Silks 253, 262
Violet Dye for "Woolens 211, 316
Violet Enamel 2393
Violet Fire 2094
Violet Glazing 2408
Violet Ink 2497
Violet Month "Wash 1325
Violet Pomade 1263
Violet Powder 1100
Violet Silk, Acid-stained, to
restore the color of 6334
Violet Tooth-paste 1312
Violet Tooth-powder 1300
Violets, Essence of 949
Violets, Honey of 4696
Virginal, Lait 1138
Viscous Fermentation 16
Vitriol, Blue 120, 4096
Vitriol, Elixir of. 4731, 4740
Vitriol, Green 4146
Vitriol, Oil of 3855
Vitriol, Roman 120
Vitriol, White 4114
Vogel's Method of purifying
Honey 1568
Voice, Loss of, Cure for 5617
Volatile Liniment 4881
Volatile Oils, see ESSENTIAL OILS.
Voltaic Pile, to construct a 6357
Vomiting during Pregnancy,
Cure for 5721
Vomiting, Remedy for 5781
Von Vetter's Process for Pre-
serving Specimens 1675
Vulcanite, Substitute for 2281
Wafers, Gelatine , . .4369
Wagner's Glue of Caseine 2295
Wa'hoo Beer 838
Walks, Asphalt for.. 2207, &c., 6354
Walks, Gravel, See GRAVEL
Walks.
Walker's Jesuits' Drops 5338
Wall Paper, to apply, See PAPEK
HANGING.
Wall Paper, to clean 409
Wall Paper, to prepare, for
Hanging 2813
Wall Paper, to remove Grease
from 410
Wall Trees, Kails for 1885
Wallace's Pills 5279
Walls, Cement for Inside 2171
Walls, Cement for Outside 2173
Walls, Fine Whitewash for 2795
Walls, Kalsomine for 2794
Walls, Smoked, to whitewash. 2806
Walls, to paper, see PAPEK HANG-
ixo.
Walls, to render, Watertight.. 6377
Walls, Whitewashed, to paper. 2808
Walnut, Black, to give a dead
Surface to 3008
Walnut Catsup 1770
Walnut Furniture, to varnish. .2972
2974.
Walnut Hair-dye 1199
Walnut Pickle 1798
Walnut "VVood, to prepare, for
Varnishing 2972
Walter's Indian Vegetable Pills 5186
Ward's Essence for Headache 5229
Ward's Tooth Paste 1306
Warts, Powder for 5825
Warts, to remove 5824
Wash for Dry Stubborn Hair .1186
Wash for Failing Hair and
Baldness 1 177, &c.
Wash for Freckles. 1122, 1158, 1161
Wash for Shaving 1161
Wash for the Mouth nnd Teeth 1323
Wash to cleanse the Hair 1187,&c.
Wash to darken the Hair 1183, <tc.
1215, <tc.
Wash, to, in Salt Water 484
Wash to protect Trees from
Cattle 1855
WAS— WAT
WAX — WEI
WEI— WHI
605
"Washing 465, <fec. •
Washing, Chemical 32,3841
Washing Fluid 479, 481, 6306
Washing Made Easy 482
Washing Mixture 480
Washing Soap 522,598
Washing, White Lye for 483
Wasp Stings, to cure 5927 i
Watch Hands, to make, Red.. 3 196
Watch Movements, to frost . . .3381
Watchmakers' Oil 1549, &c.
Water, Barley 4767
Water Bath 5
Water, Bitter Almond 4755
Water Brash, to cure 5691
Water, Camphor. . .4611, 4754, 4766
Water Cement 2165
Water, Cinnamon 4756
Water, Cologne 976. &c.
Water, Cologne, Ammoniated.1096
Water, Cologne. Concentrated 950 ]
Water Colors, Improved Vehi-
cle for 2725
Water, Distilled 4768
Water, Fennel 4757
Water, Florida 1011, &c.
Water Gilding 3584
Water Glass 2816. &c.
Water Glass Solvent for Coral-
line 2587
Water. Honey 1007
Water, Honey, Imitation 1006
Water, how to see Under 6192
Water, Hungary 996
Water, Impure, to purify 1701,1710,
1712, C359.
Water Lac Varnish 2940
Water, Lavender 989, &c.
Water, Lavender. Ammoniacall098
Water Lily Roots, to dry If 89
Water, Lime 4760
Water, Lime, for Dyeing 103
Water, Lobelia 4761
Water, Millefleur 1005
Water of Life 5448
Water, Orange Flower 1009
Water, Peppermint 4758
Water, Rose 1008, 1079
Water Size for Gilding 3572
Water, Spearmint 4759
Water, Statistics of 6120
Water, Tar 4764
Water Pipes, to manage, in
Winter 6223
Water Pipes, to protect the In-
side Lining of 6224
Water, to prevent, from putrefy-
ing 1650
Water, to test the Hardness of 4388
Water, Vanilla 1078
Waterproof Blacking for Har-
ness 3082, &c.
Waterproof Canvas 1561
Waterproof Cements 2174, 2179
Waterproof Cloth 1553
Waterproof Covering for
Wounds 5502
Waterproof Felting 1556
Waterproof French Polish 3004
Waterproof Goods, Oil Varnish
for 2885
Waterproof Paper 1941, 1944
Waterproof Starch 6310
Waterproof, to render Boots . .3069
Waterproofing, Directions for. 1552
&c., 6313.
Waters, Medicated 4753
Waters, Perfumed by Distilla-
tion 1070, &.O.
Waters, Perfumed, Directions
for Distilling 1073
Waters, Perfumed, from Essen-
ces 1082
Waters, Perfumed, from Essen-
tial Oils 1080,1081
Waters, Perfumed, Practical
Suggestions for 1076
Waters, Perfumed, Proportions
of Arom atics for 107]
Waters, Perfumed, Soubeiran's
Apparatus for 1077
Waters, Perfumed, to prevent,
from Souring 1075
Waters, Perfumed, to remove
the Burnt Smell from 1074
Wax, Bees' 1577
Wax for Grafting 1880
Wax for Polishing Floors 1591
Wax for Sealing Bottles 929
Wax, Imitation 1588, &c.
Wax, Modeling 1590
Wax, Sealing, see SEALING WAX.
Wax, to bleach 1578, &c.
Wax, to color 1586
Wax, to. Furniture 2992
Wax, to detect Japanese Wax
in 1583
Wax, to detect Spermaceti in. 1582
Wax, to refine 1584, 1585
Was 1o test the purity of 1582, <kc.
Wax Marble for Book-covers .3109
Wax, Milk of 2936
Wax Moulds, to coat, for Elec-
trotyping 3689
Wax Moulds, to make ...3674, &c.
Wax Moulds, to make, of the
Face 3682
Wax Paper 1938
Wax Paper for Photography. .3179
Wax Putty for Leaky Casks.. 696
Wax Stains on Cloth, to remove 342
Wax Stains on Silk, to remove 341
Wax Varnish for Furniture... 2937
Wax Varnish for Paintings... 2936
Weather Boards, old, Paint for 2771
Weavers' Knot, to tie a 6261
Wedel's Elixir 4555
Wedgwood Mortars, to cleanse 6346
Weeds on Gravel Walks, to de-
stroy 1870, 1875
Weeds on Gravel Walks, to
prevent 1869
Weight and Hardness of Gems 6136
Weight, Apothecaries 5951
Weight, Apothecaries, Com-
pared with Apothecaries Mea-
sure 5954
Weight, Apothecaries, Com-
pared with Avoirdupois 5952
Weight, Apothecaries, Com-
pared with Grams 5955
Weight, Apothecaries, Com-
pared with Troy 5953
Weight, Assayers' Gold 5948
Weight, Assayers' Silver 5949
Weight, Avoirdupois 5935
Weight, Avoirdupois, Com-
pared with Apothecaries Mea-
sure 5937
Weight, Avoirdupois, Com-
pared with Apothecaries'
Weight 5938
Weight, Avoirdupois, Com-
pared with Grams 5941
Weight, Avoirdupois, Com-
pared with Troy 5936
Weight, Diamond 5943
Weight, French Binary 6046
Weight, French Binary, Com-
pared witli Apothecaries 6048
Weight, French Binary, Com-
pared with Avoirdupois 6047
Weight, French Binary, Com.
pared with Grams 6050
Weight, French Binary, Com-
pared with Troy 6049
Weight, Loss of, in Substances
by Drying 6149
Weight, Metrical 6027, 6052
Weight, Metrical, Compared
with Apothecaries 6030
Weight, Metrical, Compared
with Avoirdupois 6028
Weight, Metrical, Compared
with Troy 6029
Weight of a Barrel of Various,
Articles 5973
Weight of a Bushel of Various
Articles 5974
Weight of Copper, Sheet and
Plate 6139
Weight of Earth, Rocks, &C...6134
Weight of Fluids and Gases ..6138
Weight of Hemp or Wire Rope 61 37
Weight of Iron Bars and Rails 6145
Weight of Iron, Boiler 6142
Weight of Iron Shafting 6144
Weight of Iron Sheet C141
Weight of Iron Plates, Cast. . .6140
Weight of Lead 6139
Weight of Live Cattle 6127
Weight of Metals 6143
Weight of Nails 6146
Weight of Steel Bars 6145
Weight of Timber 6138
Weight of Various Minerals, &c.,
6135, til38.
Weight, Percentage of Pork in
Live 6129
Weight, Troy 5942
Weight, Troy, Compared with
Apothecaries 5945
Weight, Troy, Compared with
Avoirdupois 5944
Weight, Troy, Compared with
Grams 5946, 5947
Weight, Troy, to convert, into
Avoirdupois 5950
Weights and Measures. . . 5934, &c.
Weights and Measures, Aus-
trian .' 6075, &c.
Weights and Measures, Chinese 6110
Weights and Measures.Deci-
mal, see METRICAL.
Weights and Measures, Dutch 6090
Weights and Measures, Eng-
lish 6031, &c.
Weights and Measures, Foreign,
Various 6054, &c.
Weights and Measures, Foreign,
Compared with American. . .6055
Weights and Measures,French6045
Weights and Measures, Metri-
cal. 6014, &.C.
Weights and Measures, Nether-
lands 6084, <fcc,
Weights and Measures, Prus-
sian 6080, &c.
Weights and Measures.Roman 6061
Weights and Measures, Rus .
sian 6071, &c.
Weights and Measures, Scrip-
tural 6065, &c.
Weights and Measures, Span-
ish 6091
Weights and Measures, Swed-
ish 6096
Weights and Measures, Swiss. 6101
Weights and Measures, Turk-
ish 6106
Weil's Copper Coating for Iron 3637
Weld Yellow Dye for Silks 265
Welding 3250, 3472. <tc.
Welding, Fluxes for 3531
Welding Powders 3523, &.c.
Wells, to examine 6410
Wenderoth's Photographic Var-
nish 3161
Wernicke's Method of Gilding
on Glass 3596
Whale Oil, Putrid, to deodorize 1488
Whale Oil Soap for destroying
Insects 580
Wheat, Artificial Manure for.. 1827
Wheeler's Nursing Syrup 5308
Wheeler's Worm Confection. . .5309
Whetstones, See HONES.
Whiskey i435
Whiskey, Bourbon, Imitation. . . 683
Whiskej', Cheap, to improve.. .6293
Whiskey, Distillation of 931
Whiskey, Flavorings for. . 664, &c.,
6294.
Whiskey, Irish, Imitation 690
Whiskey Punch 920
Whiskey, Rye, Imitation.. 688, &c.
Whiskey, Scotch, Imitation 691
Whiskey, to deodorize 1446
Whiskey, to free, from Fusel
OU 1446
Whiskey, to give a Smoky
Flavor to 692
Whiskey, to improve, by Elec-
tricity 726, 6295
Whiskey, Mash for, to prepare 936
Whiskey, Yeast for, to prepare, 932,
934.
White Arsenic, see AKSKNIOUS
ACID.
606
WHI — WIN
•White Cabbage Pickle 1799
White Cement 2192
White Copper 3414, 3415
White Currant Wine 728
White Dye, French, for Silks.. 263
White Enamel 2396
White Enamel for Iron- Ware. 2403
White Fire 2096, 2104, 2107
White Foil for Imitation Gems,
2448.
White, French, for the Skin... 1108
White Frontignac Wine 6413
White Glazing 2405
White Jean Boots, to clean... 453
White Kid Boots, to clean 454
White Kid Gloves, see KID
GLOVES.
White Lace Veils, to clean... 471
White Lead 2693
White Lead, Antidotes for 5908
White Lead Plaster 5044
White Lead, Tests for. . . 2694, 2(>95
White Lights 2113
White Lights for Indoors 2120
White Lip Salve 1172
White Liquors, to blanch 705
White Lye for Washing 483
White Metal 3416, 3426
White, Pearl, for the Skin 1109
White Pigments 2693, &c
White Precipitate 4140
White Satin Shoes, to clean . . 455
White Silk Blond and Lace, to
wash 472
White Silk Stockings, to wash. 467
White Soap 591
White Spoon Metal 34 16
White Swelling 5775
White Swelling, Treatment of 5776
White Toilet Soap, Soft 606
White Varnish 2916
White Vitriol 41 14
White Vitriol, Antidote for... 5907
White Windsor Soap 558
White Wine, to fine 744
White, Zinc 2696
Whiten, to, Tallow 639
Whiten, to, Woolens 508
White's Gout Pills 5182
Whitewash 2793, &c.
Whitewash, Fine, for Walls . . .2800
Whitewash, Fireproof 2801
Whitewash for Fences 2803
Whitewash for Out-door Use. 2796,
2802.
Whitewash, to color 2798, 2807
Whitewash, to keep 2805
Whitewash, to mix 2804
Whitewash, to prevent, from Rub-
bing off 2807
Whitewash, to, Smoky Walls.. 2806
Whitewash, Treasury Depart-
ment 2797
Whitewash, Zinc 2799
Whitewashed Walls, to paint. .2764
Whitewashed Walls, to paper .2808
Whitewashed Walls, to prepare,
for Painting 27K
Whitlow, see FELON.
Whitwith's Red Drops 5376
Whooping Cough Liniment 5257
Whooping Cough, Remedies for
5632, &c.
Whooping Cough, Treatment of,
5632.
Whortleberry Wine 72f
Wicks, Candle, to improve 623
Wicks, Candle, to make 632
Wiegand's Syrup of Phosphate
of Lime 4637
Wiegand's Tetter Ointment... 524
Wiegand's Tetter Salve 5242
Wild-Cherry Bitters 82
Wild-Cherry, Ferrated Elixir of 47U
Wild-Cherry, Ferrated Wine of47U
Wild-Cherry, Fluid Extract of 458£
Wild-Cherry Syrup for Soda Wa-
ter ]3
Wild-Cherry, Wine of ... 4714
Wilk's Refined Linseed Oil . . .287
Wilson's Hair Wash 1185
Wind, Force of the 612f
Window Glass 234
WIN— WOO
Window Glass, to restore the
Color of 6211
Window Sas-hes, Loose, to fas-
ten 6395
Windows, Prismatic Crystals
for 2365
Windows, to clean 6330, 6331
Windows, to keep, Open 6208
Windsor Soap 558, 559
Vine, Acidity in, to remedy . . 753
\Vine, Acidity in, to test 760
Wine, Antiferments for 764
iVine, Aromatic 5348
Wine, Artificially Colored, to
detect 4404, 4406
Wine, Champagne 713, &c.
Wine Color Dye for Silks 262
Wine Color Dye for Woolens . 210
Wine, Decayed, to restore 752
Wine, Decomposition in, to
test 755
Wino, Domestic.. 713, &.C., 727, &c.
Wine, Eschalot 1783
Wine, Febrifuge 5141
Wine. Filter for 714
Wine, Fretting in 757
Wine from Fresh Fruits.. 728, &c.
Wine from Dried Fruits 729
Wine, Frontignac, Imitation.. 6418
6419.
Wine, Home-made 727, &c.
Wine, Isinglass for Fining 716
Wine, Mulled, with Eggs 927
Wine, Mustiness in, to remove 758
Wine, Nutritive 4723
Wine of Beef and Iron 4722
Wine of Calisaya 4711
Wine of Cinchonia 4710
Wine of Colchicum 5389
Wine of Iron 4705
Wine of Iron, Aromatic 4708
Wine of Iron, Bitter 4704, 4707
Wine of Pepsine 4721, 4726
Wine of Quinine 5199
Wine of Rennet 4713
Wine of Wild-cherry Bark 4714
Wine of Wild-cherry, Ferrated 47 15
Wine, Pricked, to restore 752
Wine Punch 711
Wine, Sour, to remedy 751, 754
Wine Stains, to remove... 360, 369
Wine, Sweating in 757
Wine, to decolor 748
Wine, to detect Lead in .4402, 4403
Wine, to detect Logwood in. . .4405
Wine, to fine 742, &c.
Wine, to improve, by Electric-
ity 726, 6295
Wine, to preserve 759, 761
Wine, to remedy Ropiness in. . 74t
Wine, to ripen 75C
Wine, Use of Glycerine in 725
Wintergreen Syrup 1407
Wire, Brass for 3348, 3374
Wire Rope, Weight of 613r
Wonderful Ointment 4895
Wood, Cement for Coating 2195
Wood, Cement to fill Cracks in 2244
Wood, Dyes for, to brighten
and set 2828
Wood, Enameled,to polish 3015, &c
Wood, Gold-size for Gilding on 3562
Wood, Implements for Gilding
on 355'
Wood, to bronze 3792, &c., 3825
Wood, to cement Emery to. . .6269
Wood, to cement Metal to 223
Wood, to coat with a Substance
as hard as Stone 168C
Wood, to detect, in Paper 1947
Wood, to dye 2824, &c
Wood, to electrotype on 369.r
Wood, to enamel 3010, &c
Wood, to extract Essential Oil
from 46
Wood, to gild on 3557, <fec
Wood, to harden 1682
Wood, to kyanize 168
Wood, to make, Incombustible 282:
Wood, to petrify 1681
Wood, to photograph on 3165
Wood, to prepare, for Enamel-
ing 3011, 3015
WOO — TEA
Wood, to prepare, for Gilding. 3559
iVood, to prepare, for Japan-
ning 3020
Vood, to prepare.for Polishing 2983
Vood, to preserve.. 1677, 1680, 1684
Wood, to preserve, from Dry-
rot 1679
Wood, to preserve, under Wa-
ter 1684
Wood, to prevent, from Split-
ting 1678
Wood, to silver 3612, 3627. 3628
Wood, to stain 2842, &c.
Wood, to transfer Engravings
onto 6336
Wooden Faucets, to keep, from
Cracking 6305
Wooden Vessels, to remove the
Taste from 6201
Wood's Spruce Beer 886
iVood's Tincture of Kino 4556
Woods used for Dyeing 94
Wool, New Wasli for 1 719
Wool, to bleach 1716, 1717
Wool, to dissolve, out of Mixed
Fabrics 6413
Wool, to distinguish, in Mixed
Fabrics 298, &c.
Woolen Goods, to restore the
Gloss Finish on 469
Woolen Hose, to whiten 508
Woolen Rags, to bleach 1726
Woolens, Flannels and Shawls,
to wash 493, &c.
Woolens, Aniline Dyes for 2573, &c.
Woolens, Chrome Dyes for. . . . 221
Woolens, Colored, to clean 451
Woolens, Family Receipts for
Dyeing 303, &e.
Woolens, General Receipts for
Dyeing 191, &°-
Woolens, to prepare, for Dye-
ing : — 191
Woolens, to preserve, from
Moth 654
Woolens, to remove Spots from 345
Woolens, to wash 493
Worcestershire Sauce 1759
Worm Confection 5309
Worm, Tape, see TAPE WORM.
Worms in Gravel Walks, to de-
stroy 1875
Worms in Lawns, to destroy. . 1876
Worms, Remedies for, see VEK-
MIFUGES.
Worms, Symptoms of the 5642
Worms, to expel, from Flower-
pots 1853
Wormseed, Essential Oil of 1465
Wormwood Water, to distill. .1071
1073.
Worsted Reps, to clean 451
Worsteds, to dye 303, &c.
Wounds, Dressing for < . 5392
Wounds, Festering, Cure for.. 5748
Wounds, Lotion for 4853
Wounds on Rosebushes, to heal 1877
Wounds on Trees, to heal 1879
Wrinkles in the Face, Wash for 1163
Wrist, Sprained, Treatment of 5495
Writing Effaced by Chlorine, to
restore 2504
Writing Fluids 2477, &c.
Writing, New, to make, appear "
old 2505
Writing on Glass 2371, 2375
Writing, Very Old, to copy 1959
Wrought Iron, see IRON.
Wyndham's Pills 5323
Xanthine 4013
Xanthoxylum, Fluid Extractof 4579
Xylol or Xylene 6409
Tarn, Cotton, to bleach 123
Tarn, Cotton, to prepare, for
Dyeing... 122
Tarn, Fustic-green Dye for 161
Tarn, Indigo-blue Dye for 130
Tarrow, Fluid Extract of 4588
Teast 1807, &c.
Teast, Bitterness in, to remedy. 1816
Teast, Brewers' 1808
YEA — TEL
YEL — ZIN
ZIN — ZIN
607
Toast for Hot Climates 1809
Yeast, Patent 1814
Yeast Poultice 5027
Yeast, to prepare, for Bum and
"Whiskey 932
Yeast, to prepare, with Ferment 1813
Yeast, to prepare, without Fer-
ment 1810, &c.
Yeast, to preserve 1815
Yellow Aniline Dye 2579
Yellow Cement 2189
Yellow Color, to remove, from
the Teeth 1296
Yellow Dipping Metal 3433
Yellow DOCK, Syrup of, Com-
pound 4683
Yellow Dye for Cottons 186
Yellow Dye for Feathers 329
Yellow Dye for Ivory 1990
Yellow Dye for Leather 6350
Yellow Dye for Silks. -265, &.C., 323
Yellow Dye for Veneers 2839
Yellow Dye for "Wood 2826
Yellow Dye for "Woolens. . .202, 225
Yellow Enamels 2394
Yellow Fire 2099,2110
Yellow Foil for Imitation Gems 2452
Yellow Glazing 2406
Yellow Hair-dyes 1208, &c.
Yellow Hair-oil 1234
Yellow Jasmine, Tincture of . .4493
Yellow Lights 2114
Yellow Lights for Indoors 2121
Yellow Lotion, Mercurial 4848
Yellow Marble for Book-covers 3110
Yellow Metal, to platinize 3658
Yellow.Naples 2709
Yellow Pigments... 2700, 2705, 2708
Yellow Sealing Wax 2320
Yellow Stain for Glass 2361
Yellow Stain for Marble 2044
Yellow Stain for Wood 2863
Yellow Soap, to improve 6308
Yellow Soap, to make 522
Yellow Spirits 109, 141
Yellow, to color Fat 1259
Yellow Wash, Mercurial 4848
Youatt's Cure for Hydrophobia 5922
Zeiodite 2213
Zeiter's Antiscorbutic Denti-
frice 1306
Zinc 3310
Zinc, Alloys of 3421, 3424
Zinc Amalgam for Electrical
Machines 3539
Zinc, Ammonio-Chloride of ... 4110
Zino, Carbonate of 4112
Zinc, Chloride of 4109, 4111
Zinc, Cyanide of. 3753, 4115
Zinc, Flowers of 4116-
Zinc, Flux for Soldering .3481, 3531
Zinc Green 2691
Zinc Ointment 4981
Zinc, Oxide of 4117
Zinc Paint, Boiled Oil for 2734
Zinc, Sulphate of 4114
Zinc, Tests for, in Solutions... 4118
Zinc, to amalgamate, for the
Battery 3555, 3662
Zinc, to bronze 3797, 3811
Zinc, to coat Copper or Brass
with 3651, 3653
Zinc, to coat Iron with 3649
Zinc, to coat, with Copper or
Brass 3655
Zinc, to coat, with Iron 3654
Zinc, to color 3313
Zinc, to granulate 3312
Zinc, to paint 2759
Zinc, to purify 3311
Zinc, to scour 3271
Zinc, to separate, from Copper. 3243
Zino Wash 5834
Zinc White 2696
Zino White, Dryer for 2740
Zino Whitewash 2799
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
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