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Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2007 with funding from
IVIicrosoft Corporation
http://www.arGhive.org/details/europetheearth02recluoft
THE
EARTH AND ITS INHABITANTS.
EUROPE.
BY
]&LIS:&E RECLUS.
EDITEP BY
E. G. RA VENSTEm, F. R. G. S., F. S. S., Etc.
VOL. II.
FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND.
ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS ENORAVINOS AND MAPS.
NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
1, 3, AND 5 BOND STREET.
JUN7 1956
CONTENTS.
FEANCE.
I. General Aspects. The Coc»trt and its Inhabitants 1
Gleographical Position: Geology, p. 1. Climate; Rivers, p. 7. The Prehistoric Age of
France, p. 13. The Inhabitants of France, p. 16.
n. The Pykeseeb, the Landek, and the Basin of the Garonne 23
The Pj-renecs, p. 23. ITie Landes, p. 39. The Adour, p. 46. The Garonne, p. 48.
Topography. — Pj-renees-Orientales, p. 53. Ariege, p. 65. Hauto-Garonne, p. 57. Hautcs-
Pyr^n6es, p. 69. Basses-Pyrenees, p. 62. Gers, p. 64. Tam-et-Garoune, p. 65. Lot-et-
Giaronne, p. 67. Landes, p. 67. Gironde, p. 69.
m. The Alps, the RhOxe, and the Coast op the MsDitEKBANBAN 74
General Aspects ; Jlountains, p. 74. Provence, p. 75. Maritime Alps, 78. Cottian Alps,
p. 78. The Alps of Dauphine, p. 80. The Alps of Savoy, p. 84. 'The Ehdne and other
liivers, p. 89. Coast-line and Lagoons, p. 108. Climate, p. 114.
Topography. — Aude, p. 116. Herault, p. 117. Gard, p. 119. Ardfeche, p. 122. Bouches-
du-Rhone, p. 124. Var, p. 130. Alpes-Maritimes, p. 134. Vaucluse, p. 136. Hautes-
Alpes, p. 139. Basses- Alpes, p. 140. Drdme, p. 141. Is^re, p. 142. Savoie,p. 144. Uaute-
Savoie, p. 146.
IV. The Juba and the Basin op the Saone {Fraxche-Comt6 and Buroundy) . . . 148
General Aspects ; Mountains, p. 148. Lakes and Rivers, p. 150. Inhabitants, p. 156.
Topography. — Aio, p. 157. Jura, p. 158. Doubs, p. 159. Belfort, p. 162. Haute-Safine,
p. 163. C6te-d'Or, p. 164. SaOne-et-Loire, p. 167. Rhone, p. 171.
V. The Plateau op Centkal Framob (QfivAVDAN, Vilat, Ai'veronb, Roceroue, Limovsin,
P^.RiooRn, Marche, Boprbonnais) 174
The Cevcnnes, p. 174. Mezenc and Vivarais, p. 177. Velay, p. 179. The Volcanoes of
Auvergno, p. 181. Limousin, p. 186. Forez, Beaujolais, and CharoUais, p. 188. Inha-
bitanU, p. 188.
Topography. — Ijozfcre, p. 189. Haute-Loire, p. 189. Aveyron, p. 190. Tarn, p. 191. Lot,
p. 193. Cantal, p. 194. Puy-de-l)6me, p. 196. Corr&ze, p. 197. Dordognc, p. 198.
Haute- Vienne, p. 199. Creuse, p. 200. AUier, p. 201. Loire, p. 204.
VI. Chabente and VKNoiE (Anoovmois, Saintonge, Aunis, Poitou) 206
Gteneral Aspects ; Hills, p. 206. Rivers, p. 207. The Coast, p. 208.
Topography.— Ch&Tente, p. 212. Charente-Inferieure, p. 214. Vienne, p. 218. Deux-
Si-vres, p. 219. Vendee, p. 220.
VII. The Basin op the Loire 222
General Aspects, p. 222. The Loire, p. 223.
Topography.— tiivvrc, p. 230. Cher, p. 232. Indre, p. 232. Loiret, p. 233. Loir-et-Cher,
p. 234. Euro et- Loir, p. 236. Indre-et-Loire, p. 236. Maine-et-Loire, p. 238. Sarthe,
p. 239. Mayenno, p. 242. Loire-Infcrieure, p. 242.
i^ CONTENTS.
PADS
VIII. Brittany (Bketaose) ,'„
General Aspects, p.. 246. The Coast, p. 248. Inhabitants, p. 253.
r<^r«pAy.-Morbihan, p. 256. Finistfere, p. 2.58. COtes-du-Nord, p. 261. lUe-et-
Yilaine, p. 264.
IX. The Channel Islands
Jersey, p. 266. Serk, p. 268. Guernsey, p. 268. Alderaey, p. 269.
X. LowEK Normandy and Cotentin 270
General Aspects, p. 270.
Topo^raph^.—Ui Manche, p. 272. Ome, p 275. Calvados, p. 276.
XI. The Valley of the Seine ^^^
The River Seine, p. 280. Upper Normandy, p. 287. The Coast, p. 289.
Topoyrap^iy.-Yonne, p. 290. Aube, p. 291. Haute-Mame, p. 291. Mame, p. 292. Seine-
et-Mame, p. 297. Paris, p. 299. Seine-et-Oise, p. 307. Aisne, p. 310. Oise, p. 314.
Eure, p. 314. Seine- Inf^rieure, p. 316.
Xn. Northern France (Basins of the Somme and the Scheldt; Picardy, Artois, and
Flanders) 322
General Aspects, p. 322.
Topography.— Somme, v-3Si- Pas-de-CaJais, p. 334. Nord, p. 337.
XIII. The Vosoes (Basins of the Meuse and the Moselle) 346
General Aspects, p. 345.
IbpoyrapAy.— Meuse, p. 350. Ardennes, p. 350. Vosges, p. 352. Meurthe-et-Moselle, p. 354.
XTV. Statistics of France 356
Population, p. 356. Agriculture, p. 359. Mining, p. 364. Manufactures, p. 365. Com-
merce, p. 366. Social Statistics, p. 371.
XV. Government and Administration 374
Local and Central Government, p. 374. Judicial Authorities, p. 376. Ecclesiastical
Authorities, p. 376. Education, p. 377. Army and Navy, p. 377. Finance, p. 378.
Colonies, p. 380.
Tabular Statement of Area and Population, p. 382.
France ; its Departments, Natural Regions, and Principal Communes, p. 384.
SWITZERLAND.
I. General Aspects. — The Alps 391
II. The JiRA 409
III. Glacial Period 414
IV. Rivers and Lakes 419
V. Climate, Fauna, and Flora 434
VI. The People 442
VII. Topography ' . 452
Ticino, p. 453. Valais, Vaud, p. 464. Geneva, p. 456. Fribourg, Neuchatel, p. 469.
Bern. p. 460. Solothum, p. 464. Basel, p. 465. Aargau, p. 467. Luzem, p. 471.
Schwyz, Uri, Untcrwalden, p. 469. Zug, Zvirich, p. 470. GLarus, Grisons, p. 471. St.
GaUen, p. 472. App«mzell, Thurgau, p. 473. Schaffhausen, 474.
VIII. AoRicii.TURE, Industry, and Commerce 475
IX. Government and Administration 49O
INDEX
497
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
MAPS PRINTED IN COLOURS.
PAOB
1 . France, Geological i 6. Geological Map of the Paris Basin
2. France, Political 53 6. Switzerland
3. Mont Blanc 86 | 7. Mount St. Gotthard .
4. The Volcanoes of Central France . 177 |
PAOC
301
391
484
PLATES.
The Pyrenee*, as seen firm the Terrace of the
CartleatPau .... To /ace page 2i
The Maladetta, seen from the Snnunit of the
Posets 31
Panorama of Cier and the Valley of Luchon . 56
Toulouse ...,...• 68
Peasants from the Valley of Ossau ... 62
Bayonne . . . . . . • .63
Bordeaux 69
La Pcrte dn RhOne at Bollegardc ... 89
Carcassonne 116
MarseiUes .... 124
Grenoble and the Alps of Bclludonno . .142
Mont Auxois and the Statue of Vercingotorix . 167
Lyons 171
Feasants of Auvcrgne IftB
Le Puy-en-Velay 189
Valley of Mont Dorelce-Bains . .197
Limoges ..''... To fact page 2W
Source of the Loiret 233
Chambord Castle 235
Nantes 242
Mont St. Michel 262
Paris '209
Prospect from the Terrace of St. Gtermain . 808
Bouen 317
Lalcea of Ketoumemer and Longemer 348
Nancy 864
Railway Viaduct of Morlaix .367
Le Havre 370
Mont C'orvin, or the Matterhom . 398
The Jungfrau 401
The Lake of Thun 427
Geneva 4S6
The Wellhom and the Rosenlaui Glacier . . 464
The Ijiko of the Four Cantons (Axenstrasse) . 470
LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS.
ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.
FRAUCE.
8,
9.
10.
1. The Contour of France .
2. 'ITie Historical High-roads of France
3. Lithological Map of the British Channel
4. Isothermal Lines of France
6. Linos of Eqoal Winter and Summer Tom
perature for Paris
6. Comparative Area of the Eiver Basins and
average .Surface Drainage .
7. Comparative Discharge of the Great Rivers
of France
DoL-EK- Veuchant ok "Merchants'
Table," near Locmariaker
Dispersion of the Aryans .
The Stature of Frenchmen
11. Profile of the Pyrenees .
12. Mont Canigou
13. Puy de Carlitte ....
U. Defiles of the Aude ....
18. The Isthmus between the Corhiferes and
the Ccvcnnes ....
16. The Little Pyrenees ....
17. The Maladetta
18. Mont Perdu
19. Roland's B&each ....
20. The Amphitheatre of Gavarnie .
21. Section of the Ancient Glacier of Argel&s
22. Ancient Glacier of Argelfes
23. The Basques on the French Slope of the
Pyrenees
24. View in the Lanhes
26. The Dunes and Landes in the Pays d
Bom
26 The Basin of Arcachon
27. The Slope of the Landes .
28. The Ancient Coast of the Jjandes
Successive Changes of the Bed of the Gave
ofPau
The Mouth of the Adour .
The Subterranean Course of the Garonne
32. Radiating River Courses of Gers
33. Valleys of Gers ....
34. ITie Plain of Riviere
35. The Estuary of the Gironde
36. The " Passes " of the Gironde .
37. Section of the Passes of the Gironde
38. Port-Vcndres
39. Bagneres-de-Luchon
40. The Convergent Valleys of the Garonne,
the Ariegc, and the Hers .
41. Toulouse ......
42. Canal of the Neste ....
43. Bagnere«-de-Bigorre
44. Tumuli of Ossun ....
45. Bayonne and the Mouth of the Adour
46. Roadstead of St. Jean-de-Luz .
47. The Alluvial Plain of the Garonne, the
Tarn, and the Aveyron
29.
30.
31.
PAGE
2
6
6
12
13
15
17
19
24
25
26
27
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
38
40
41
42
43
44
46
47
48
49
50
50
61
62
62
64
66
67
58
69
60
61
63
64
66
PAOK
48. Cap-Breton *><*
49. Bordeaux '^''
60. The Wine Districts of the Gironde . .71
61. The Invasion of Phylloxera, 1873-75 . 72
52. Zones of Oranges and Olives ... 76
53. The Mountains of the Moors ... 76
54. The Valley of the Arc . . • • 77
55.' The Verdon at Qu'inson ... 78
56. The Gorge, or " Clus," of the Verdon . 79
67. The Glaciers of Oisans ... 80
58. Aiguille of the Medje ... 81
69. The Glacier of La Grave ... 82
60. The "Forest" of Saou ... 84
61. Leis Mourke 85
62. Mont Blanc as seen prom Chamonix . 86
63. Ancient Lake Beds in Savoy ... 88
64. Perte du Rhone and Bellegarde . . 89
65. The Lake of Annecy .... 90
66. l"he Lake of Bourget .... 91
67. Ancient Glaciers of the Rhone and the
Isere . 93
68. Plain of La Valloire . ... 94
69. The Sorgues of Vaucluse ... 96
70. Pont d'Arc (Ardeche) . . . .96
71. Pont d'Arc 97
72. The Roman AauEiiccT over the Gard . 98
73. The Crau and the Canal of Crapponne . 99
74. The Canal of the Verdon . . . .100
75. The Delta of the Rhone . . . .101
76. The Canal of St. Louis . . .103
77. The Lagoons of Aigues-Mortes . .104
78. The Delta of the Aude . . . .105
79. Rigoles of the Canal du Midi . . .107
80. I'he Mouth of the Herault and Cap
d'Agde 108
81. Leucate and the Roadstead of Franqui . 109
82. The Lagoon of Thau . . -. .110
83. Bionomical Condition of the Littoral
Region of Herault . . . .111
84. itang de Berre • .... 112
85. The Canal of Caronto . . .113
86. The Prevailing Winds at Aigues-Mortes . 1 14
87. The Port of La NouveUe . • . .116
88. The Harbour of Cette . . . .118
89. The Protestant Congregations in tht South
of France 120
90. Beaucaire and Tarascon . . . .122
91. The Invasion of the Phylloxera . . 123
92. Marseilles 125
93. ITie Roadstead of Marseilles . . . 126
94. The Mausoleum at St. Remy . . 128
95. Kino Rene's Castle at Tarascon . . 129
96. Toulon 130
97. Hydros LSI
98. The Gulf of St. Tropez . . . .132
99. Nice 133
100. Villefranche 135
101. The Caverns of BAOussi-Roussfi . . 136
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS,
TU
no. "o*
102. Baousse-Rousse . . • . . . 137
103. Cannes and the Ides of L^rins . .138
104. AvioNON 139
106. Ck)ldeLarche HO
106. SiSTERON HI
107. Valence H3
108. Grenoble H4
109. Passes over the Alps .... 145
110. Thonon H6
111. The Jura 149
112. The Forest of Chaux . . . .150
113. The Lake of St. Point . . . .151
114. The Lake of Chalin 152
115. The Lakesof the Cluseof Nantua . . 152
116. The Lower Valley of the Ain . . .153
1 17. The Great Defile of the Doubs . . 154
118. The Falls of thb Docbs . .155
119. The Dombes in 1834 . . . .156
120. The Mountains of Morez and St. Claude . 158
121. The First Terrace of the Jura, between
Lons-le-Saunier and Salins . 160
122. Besanqon 161
123. Besan^om 162
124. Belfort 163
125. Belfokt 164
126. Vesoul . . • 165
127. The Wine District of C6te-d'0r . . 166
128. Le Crensot 168
129. Le Ckeusot 169
130. Lyons 170
131. The Environs of Lyons ..... 172
132. The Mountains of Espinouze . . 175
133. The Causse of Mijean . . . .176
134. The Defile of the Akd^che, kear
EuoMS . . . 178
135. The Hills of Coiron 179
136. Le Puy 180
137. The Ppy de l' Aiouillier, Moj»t Dorb 182
138. The Puy of .Sancy and the Lake District 183
139. The Chain of the Pay de Ddme . . 184
140. Volvic 185
141. TheMeanderingsof theLot ... 186
142. The Rapids of Lalinde . . .187
143. Roquefort 191
144. Decazeville 192
145. Clermont and Montf errand . . .195
146. Thiers 196
147. Section of the Carboniferous Strata of
St. feloy 197
148. Tayac and Les Eyzies, on the VezJre . 198
149. The Coal Measures of B^zenet . . .201
150. Vichy 202
151 St. fiticnne 203
152. The Head- Waters of the Touvre . . 207
153. The Old Coast of Vendee . . .208
164. N'oirmoutier ...... 209
165. Siltcd-up Bays on the Coast of Aunis 210
16ii. ITic Ancient Gulf of I'oitou . . .211
167. Angoulime 212
158. The Brandy Districts of Charente . . 213
159. Rochefort and the Lower Charente . .214
160. LaRochelle 215
161. La Rochblle 216
162. Aus-E.N-R* 217
FIO. FAOE
163. The Gulf of Aiguillon . . . .218
164. Les Sables-d'Olonne . . . .220
165. The Bill of the Allier . . . .223
166. The Authion 224
167. La Sologne 225
168. The Erdre 226
169. The Lake of Grand Lieu . . .227
170. La Grande Briere 228
171. PaimbcDuf 229
172. The Mouth of the Loire . . . .230
173. IjeCroisicandBatz 231
174. Orleans 283
175. Chartres 236
176. Tours 287
177. Angers 238
178. The Slate Quarries near Angers . 240
179. LeMans 241
180. Nantes 243
181. St. Nazairo 244
182. The Landes of Lanvaux . . . .247
183. Morbihan 248
184. The Peninsula of Quiberon . . .249
185. The Headland of Comouaille ... 260
186. The Bay of St. Michel . . . .252
187. Bketon Peasants 263
188. Approximate Extent of the Breton Tongue 254
189. Women of Cancale . . . .255
190. Lorient and Port-Louis .... 267
191. Concameau 269
192. Brest 260
193. Morlaix 262
194. St. Malo and St. Servan . . . .263
195. View op St. Malo 264
196. The Channel Islands . . . .267
197. The Forest of Andaine . . . .271
198. Meadows of Normandy .... 272
199. The Sinks of the Aure . . . .278
200. Cherbourg 274
201. The Beach at Granville . .276
202. Caen and the Mouth of ^Jie Ome . . 277
203. TrouvUle 278
204. The Ravincd Plateau of Upper Burgundy 281
205. The Lake Reservoir of Settons . . 282
206. The Source of the Seine . . . .283
207. The Basin of Vitry-le-Francois . . 284
208. Section of the Paris Basin . . .286
209. The Estuary of the Seine . . .286
210. The District of Bray . . . .287
211. Dales on the Coast 288
212. Cape de la HfevE 289
213. The Environs of Langres . . .292
214. Chalons and its Camp . . . .293
215. The Bifurcation of the Grand Morin at
Sezanne ...... 294
216. Reims and Epemay .... 296
217. The Cathedral of Reims . . .296
218. Fontainebleau 297
219. Paris and the Great Highways of France 298
220. The Growth of Paris . . .299
221. 'ITie Comparative Growth of London and
Paris in Popluation .... 300
222. The Areas occupied by London and Paris 301
223. Notkk-Damk 302
224. The Lolvue 303
vui
LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS.
no. "°''
22fi. The New Opbba HobBB, Paris . • 304
226. Paris and ita Aqueducts . . . .305
227. Paris and its Forts ..... 306
228. St. Germain-en-Laye . . . .308
229. Laon 310
230. St. Quentin 311
231. Compiegne 312
232. ChantUly 313
233. Les Andelys 316
234. Kouen and its Environs . .316
235. Le Havre. 317
236. The Cliffs of Eteetat . . . 318
237. Fecamp 319
238. Dieppe 320
239. The Hills of Boulogne . . . .323
240. The Estuary of the Somme . . .324
241. The Ancient Gulf of Flanders. . . 325
242. The Moeres of Dunkirk . . . .326
243. Section of the Strait of Dover . . 327
244. Strait of Dover and the Proposed Tunnel 328
245. Section of the Proposed Tunnel . . 328
346. Extent of the French and Flemish
Languages 329
247. The Coal Basin of Northern France . 330
248. PftROSJJK-SL'R-SoMMK . . . . . 331
249. Amiens .332
250. Amikss Cathbdkal 333
261. Boulogne 336
262. Calais 336
263. Valenciennes 338
254. Lille 339
266. Koubaix and Turcoing .... 340
266. The Belfby of Bekoceb . . .341
257. Gravelines 342
258. Dunkirk 343
269. Glaciers of the Vosges . . . . 3-t6
260. The Lakes of Gerardmer and Longe-
mer 347
261. Meanderings of the Meuse . 349
262. CharleviUe and ^^czi&res . . .351
263. fepinal 352
264. Nancy 356
266. Increase of Population in the Principal
Countries 367
266. Density of the Population in France 358
267. Wheat Harvests 369
268. Produce of the Vineyards .360
269. Pastures and Meadows .... 362
270. Average Value of Agricultural Produce,
with the Exception of Wine . . 363
271. The Increase of Steam Engines . . 366
272. ITie Bailroads of France . . . .367
273. Canals and NaWgable Rivers . . 368
274. The Commercial Marines of the World . 369
275. The Navigation of French Ports . . 370
276. Map exhibiting the Educational Condition
of France 372
277. View of Monaco 379
278. Comparative Areas of France and of her
Colonies 380
279. The Languages of France . . .381
pia.
280.
281.
282.
283.
284.
285.
286.
287.
288.
289.
290.
291.
292.
293.
294.
295.
296.
297.
298.
299.
300.
301.
302.
303
304.
305.
306.
307.
308.
309.
310.
311.
312.
313.
314.
316.
316.
317.
318.
319.
320.
321.
322.
323.
324.
325.
326.
327.
328.
329.
330.
331.
332
333.
334.
SWITZERLAND.
PAOE
Val Piora and the Lukmanier . . .394
Diagram showing the Slope of the Valleys
South and North of the St. Gotthard . 395
Sources of the Rhone, the Ticino, and the
Toce 396
ThelUgraben 397
The Matterhorn (Mont Cervin) . . 398
Glaciers of the Bernese Alps . . . 400
Blumlisalp Glacier .... 401
The Diablereta *02
The Windgiille *06
Piz Bemina 406
The Glaciers of Tschierva and Morteratsch 407
The Valley of Travers . . . .410
The Cluse of Undervelier . . .411
Meanderings of the Doubs at St. Ursanne 412
The Lake of Joux 413
The Catogne *16
Ancient Glaciers of Eastern Switzerland . 417
The Lake of Locarno (Lago Maggiore) . 420
The Lakes of Lugano and Como . . 421
The Aletsch Glacier 422
The Lake of Geneva . . . .424
Section of the Lake of Geneva . . 425
The Lakes of NeuchStel, Bieime, and Morat 426
The Lakes of Brienz and Thun . . 427
The Grindelwald Glacier . . . .428
The Swamps of the Linth .430
The Sources of the Rhine . . . 431
Rain Map of Switzerland . . .435
An Alpine Club Cabin .... 437
Pfaffikon Lake . . .443
The Pile Dwellings of Switzerland . . 444
Ethnographical Map of Switzerland . 447
Costumes in Uri 449
Costumes in Fribourg .... 460
Eastern Extremity of the Lake of G«neva 455
Geneva . . .... 456
The Lake of Morat 469
Bern 461
View of Bern 462
Interlaken 463
Bienne and the New Bed of the Aar . 464
Basel 468
Porrentruy 466
Confluence of the Rhine, Aar, Reuss, and
Limmat ...... 467
The Ijake of the Four Cantons . .468
The Simmenthal ..... 476
Industrial Map of Switzerland . . . 480
The Ebene Fluh 481
Passes across the Alps . . . .482
The Devil's Bridge and the Road ok
THE St. GOTTHABI) .... 483
Railways of Switzerland . 484
The Tunnel of the St. Gotthard . 485
Diagram of the Tunnels of the Simplon
and the St. Gotthard . . . .486
The Pass of Maloggia . . . .487
The Monch 488
A UNIVERSAL GEOGEAPHY.
FRANCE.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL ASPECTS.— THE COUNTRY AND ITS INHA HIT ANTS.
Geographicai, Position. — Geology.*
RANGE occupies a medium extent amongst those countries of the
world which have played a distinct part in politics and in the
history of civilisation. Smaller in area than either China, Russia,
the Brazils, or the United States, it is nevertheless far more con-
siderable than that of either Greece, Portugal, Switzerland, Holland,
or even of England, all of which have left their mark upon the march of human
history. Scarcely covering the 225th part of the habitable portion of the globe,
its dense population ha« nevertheless enabled it to play a part quite out of propor-
tion to its area.
It would be presumptuous if we claimed on behalf of France a sort of moral
hegemony amongst the nations of the world. Still, within the comparatively
small territory bounded by the Alps and Britany, by the Pyrenees and Vosges,
there have taken place events whose influence has made itself felt to the farthest
comers of the world. In arts and science France has found worthy rivals since
the beginning of this century, and there are other nations which claim to march
at the head of civilisation. But this merely proves that the area of the civilised
world has been enlarged — that there are other nations capable of giving birth to
initiatory movements. But France has at all times performed her share of this
work of human progress, and looking to the influence which her ideas have
exercised throughout the world, it would bo difficult to conceive a future history
of nations with France blotted from the map of Europe. To a very large extent
* Dufrenojr et Elie do Beaumont, " M^moires pour servir a une Description geologique de la
France."
36
2
FRANCE.
the inhabitants of France are indebted for the eminent position they hold to the
climate, the soil, and the geographical features of the country which they inhabit,
and a faithful description of these will be our task in the following pages.
It has often been said that France enjoys exceptional advantages from its
position between the Mediterranean and the open ocean. This position has made it
the intermediary between the old countries of the Mediterranean and Northern
Fig. 1. — The Cuntotjk of France.
»*««*« Acluzl lourday -^ixs i. du^maja tfJhmct.
Europe. Nowhere else in Europe is communication between the coasts of the
Mediterranean and the Atlantic equally facile. The plains of Poland and Russia
may offer fev^er obstacles to intercommunication, but the Baltic and the Black
Sea, which they unite, are remote inland seas. In Central Europe the Alps are
an obstacle to the exchange of ideas and merchandise between the North Sea and
the Adriatic, but in France great natural highways join the Atlantic and Mediter-
ranean ports and river basins. Mountainous Europe may be said to terminate at
GEOGKAPIIICAL POSITION.-GEOLOGY. 8
the foot of the Cevennes, and the great diagonals of the western portion of that
continent, viz. that drawn from Germany to the Iberian peninsula, and that
connecting Ituly with England, intersect each other within the boundaries of
France, which is thus marked out by nature as the great centre in which European
thought may be elaborated, where North and South may exchange their ideas.
The contour of France is distinguished by compactness no less than by a
certain elegance. A meridian passing through the capital connects the two
extreme points of the territoiy, dividing it into two symmetrical portions in such
a manner as to form an octagon. Oceanic alternate with land boundaries, and
these latter for the most part consist of mountain chains, which separate France
very distinctly from neighbouring countries. The principal of these natural
frontier ranges are the Pyrenees, the Alps, the Jura, the Vosges, and the
Ardennes.* We may even include amongst these bastions the granitic heights of
the Armorican peninsula, which overlook the fields of Normandy and Anjou to the
west. To these sterile hills France is probably indebted for not having been
conquered by England, for if Britany had been capable of attracting hardy
Anglo-Saxon settlers, it would have formed a link between Guyenne and
Normandy, and these provinces might then have remained for ever in the posses-
sion of the foreigner.
Curiously enough, it is the highest amongst these frontier ranges which separate
the French from nations of kindred origin, whilst the less elevated ranges consti-
tute the boundaries towurds the Germanic countries. The Pyrenees, a most
formidable barrier, hardly to be passed in winter, divide France from Spain ; the
Alps, an obstacle almost equally formidable, separate it from Italj'. But farther
north, the Jura and the Vosges, which are of comparatively small height, separate
the French from the German-speaking populations, whilst in the north-east, in the
direction of th '- ravined plateau of the Ardennes, the boundary in certain parts is
completely open and quite conventional. The frontier there has varied much in
accordance with the fortunes of war, but the two conterminous races did not
assimilate. In the south, however, had there not been the Pyrenees and the Alps,
it is to be assumed that instead of three Latin nations — French, Spaniards, and
Italians — each possessed of some special genius, there would now be but one.
France is thus doubly privileged. Its southern mountain barriers have pre-
servefl it from a premature fusion with other Latin nations, whilst in the north,
where the frontier is open, it was preserved by the natural antagonism of race, and
yet, owing to the facilities of communication, it rendered possible an extensive
commerce and an exchange of ideas. Paris, placed close to this open frontier, was
thus marke<l out by nature as the capital of the country : valleys and hills con-
verge upon it ; it is the principal seat of commerce and industrj', and whether in
peace or WJir has always held the foremost place.
The physical features of the interior of France are harmonious in their very
• Developiripnt of coast-line, not incliidinc; indentations of loss tlian three miles, 1,939 miles
(Channel (196, Atliintic S61, Mediterranean 382 miles). Devflopmcnt of land frontittrs, 1,349 miles
(Belgium 286, Luxemburg 9, Germany 199, Switzerland 24G, Itily 255, Spain 354 miles;. 'V'Ut\
circumference, 3,288 miles.
4 FRANCE.
contrasts. A granitic plateau of a triangular contour occupies the centre of the
country. In the east it is bounded by the deep valley through which flow the
Saone and the Rhone ; on the south-west it is bounded by the valley of the
Garonne, whilst its north-eastern boundary runs parallel with the Loire. The
granitic mountain of Rouergue and the heights of Morvan are attached to this
plateau-like peninsula. Porphyries and lavas have been erupted through the
grapites forming the nucleus of this plateau, and on all sides it is enveloped by
rocks of more recent age, as the bones of a human body are by flesh.
This comparison may be carried even further, and we may liken the granites
and other ancient rocks of the Alps and Pyrenees, of Poitou, Britany, and Cotentin,
of the Vosges and Ardennes, to the skeleton, whilst the sedimentary rocks depo-
sited in the valleys separating them represent the flesh.
A zone of Jurassic limestones surrounds almost completely the granitic moun-
tain mass of Central France, spreading out in the north-east along the foot of
the Vosges and Ardennes, and bounding in the north-west the peninsula of
Britany. A corresponding zone of cretaceous rocks extends along the northern
foot of the Pyrenees, from sea to sea, whilst the crystalline rock masses of the
Alps rise above the strata of Jurassic formation. The space occupied by rocks of
more recent origin than the chalk and Jurassic limestones is of small extent.
Geological formations and the relief of the soil divide France into a number of
historical and geographical regions. The elevated granitic plateau of the interior,
as well as the mountain barriers on the frontiers, must at all times have exercised a
deterrent influence upon the surrounding populations, whUst the rich and fertile
plains extending between them proved a powerful attraction. The rugged
plateaux, however, offered a secure shelter, whilst the plains were open at all times
to the incursions of enemies. Down in the valleys man struggled for the posses-
sion of the land ; in the mountains he held it securely. The historical contrast
between this barren central plateau and the surrounding lowlands is very evident.
The valley of the Rhone in the east, the basins of the Garonne and the Charente in
the west and south-west, and the huge bend of the Seine in the north, pulsate with
life, and the number of mountaineers who descended into these inviting plains has
been greater by far than that of the lowlanders who sought a home in the moun-
tains, for men, like water, always travel downhill.
The direction of the great historical highways of France has necessarily been
influenced by the configuration of the soil thus indicated. From Paris routes
radiate in all directions towards the north, the east, and the west, for there they
encounter no obstacles, but to the south of the Seine and the Loire these routes
had to accommodate themselves to the relief of the soil, and there are in reality but
two of them, viz. the great Roman road which leads across the lowest part of the
plateau of the Cote d'Or into the valley of the Rhone, and which Ctcsar followed
when he invaded Gaul ; and the great Iberian road, which passes to the west
of the central plateau. A third natural highway joins the extremities of these
two roads in the south. This latter skirts the southern slopes of the Cevennes,
and joins the Mediterranean to the basin of the Garonne. Nearly all the towns
I
I
GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION.— GEOLOGY. 5
which have played a great part in history are situated along either of these roads.
We need only instance Orleans, Blois, Tours, Poitiers, Bordeaux, Toulouse, Car-
cassonne, Narbonne, Montpellier, Nimes, Aries, Avignon, Lyons, Chalons-sur-
Saone, and Dijon. It has been noticed that the larger towns along these roads are
generally two stages apart, the intermediate stages being marked by places of less
consequence. In fact, these towns were originally merely military stages, the
distances being accommodated to the marching powers of infantry and cavalry.
Fig. 2.— The HisTnmGAi/ HicH-ROAns of Francb.
i \y \i \6 IT
Where exceptions occur, they are due to special features of the soil or to the neces-
sities of commerce. In our own daj's railways have almost annihilated space, and
towns no longer grow up at such regular intervals.
It would be interesting to ascertain the great routes of the migration of man
and animals in prehistoric times. But this is a matter of no inconsiderable diffi-
culty. Constant Provost, Delesse, and others have attempted to construct maps
exiiibiiing France during various geological epochs, but their value is merely
FRANCE.
conjectural, for, irrespectively of the uncertainty still existing with regard to the
age of certain rocks, it is almost impossible to tell to what extent the more ancient
formations have disappeared, owing to subsidence or denudation.
In the Silurian age it would appear Gaul consisted merely of an elongated
peninsula extending from where the Alps are now to modern Britany. Subse-
quently a wide strait sepirated this peninsula from a few Alpine masses, then
recently upheaved above the ocean, whilst newly formed land joined it to the
Fig. 3.— LiTHOLOOicAL Map of the British Channel, showing the Ancient Connection between
BlUTANY AND EnOLAXU.
AcooTding to Dclcssc.
4»|WE.orCi-
{rniiiiiii)iiiii:illlillllllP!|i'ill
^
.;> flz
dP
f- ^
SMiMP
ill!! if
C f^^
^y
Land.
0'f\fta/line-
Sea Bottuin
r
RocAy
'iii][i'f"i'i
Pyrenees and to England. The rocky bottom of the channel, as laid down on M.
Deles-se's lithological map, shows where the union between the two Britanie?
existed. When the liassic strata were being deposited in the gulfs of the sea, the
contours of the great plateau of Limousin and its outer fringe, consisting of the
Cevennes, the Forez, and the Morvan, were pretty much as they are now,
excepting that a deep strait intersected the southern portion. Four wide arms
of the sea separated this plateau from tlie Ardennes and Vosges, the Alps, the
Pyrenees, and Britany. The framework of modern France had thus become
CLIMATE.-RIVEHS. 7
apparent, and each subsequent formation helped to fill it up. During the
cretaceous age the central plateau was finally united on the one hand to Britany,
and on the other to the Vosges and the Ardennes : Boulonnais rose like an island
in the centre of the sea to the north. At the commencement of the tertiary
age this sea had become a gulf, the estuaries of the Garonne and the Adour had
much diminished in size, lakes were drained or filled up by alluvial deposits,
and at the time of the last glacial epoch, the date of which cannot be fixed even
approximately, the contour and relief of France were nearly what they are now.
The innumerable agencies, however, which change the surface of the land are
still at work : mountains are being washed away, lakes silted up, rivers change their
courses, extend their deltas, or enlarge their estuaries, while secular oscillations of
the land effect changes along the coast. As regards these latter an upheaval during
historic times has been distinctly traced along the Mediterranean coasts. On the
Atlantic seaboard the coast of the Landes has subsided ; to the north of the Gironde
we meet with incontestable proofs of an upheaval ; and along the British Channel
there are again indications of a subsidence, which extends through the Netherlands
as far as iJei.m irk and the southern shores of the Baltic. These slow movements
have resulted in changes which have exercised an appreciable influence upon the
march of history.
Clim ATE . — Rivers.*
There can be no doubt that the climate of France has undergone changes since the
beginning of the historical period, although it would be difficult precisely to deter-
mine their extent. The destruction of forests, the draining of swamps, and the
embankment of rivers must necessarily have affected local climates. There exist
no precise data in that respect, for exact meteorological observations are only of
recent growth, but a few general considerations prove it incontestably. Certain
plants can no longer be cultivated at the same altitude as during the Middle
Ages: olive, fig, and orange trees have retired farther south; the vine no longer
grows in Picardy and along the Channel. This retreat of certain plants, however,
may be due to our improved means of communication with countries where their
cultivation j'ields a richer harvest than under the inclement northern skies, and
we cannot therefore conclude from it that the climate of France has deteriorated
since the Middle Ages. But that changes in the climate have nevertheless taken
place is amply proved by an examination of our fossiliferous strata, from which we
learn that a sub-tropical and an arctic climate succeeded each other at intervals.
France at the present moment is divided into two climatic zones by the gra-
nitic ma.s8es of the great central plateau. The mean temperature to the north ef
that barrier varies between 50° and 54° F., whilst to the south of it it gradually
rises to oti°. The contrasts are still greater if we take into account the moistuie
of the air, rainfall, winds, and all those other meteorological phenomena which
constitute climate. We then find that the northern Atlantic slopes of France
• Doui lot, " Viiiiulions de Latitude ^t de Climat."
g FRANCE.
form a portion of Western Europe, whilst the southern Mediterranean slopes are
abnost African in their aspect.
Eastern and Western France contrast likewise, though not in so marked a
manner. The Atlantic coasts are exposed to the influence of the gulf-stream and
of warm south-westerly winds, and their temperature is more elevated than might
be concluded from their latitudes. As we proceed inland the warm Atlantic
Fig. 4. — Isothermal Lines of Fb
By M. Eenou.
;| 6l fl «l ■'! 'I 'l "l^Z/to^
b U 1-5 \6
l\ ,\ ojcfOi^.], |g V l4 TJ
current gradually loses its power, westerly winds blow less frequently, and the
mean temperature of Cherbourg is thus nearly 3° higher than that of Verdun,
in spite of its lower latitude.
But this decrease in mean temperature is not the only contrast between the
extreme west of France and the inland districts, for the seasons in these latter
present greater differences. The climate along the Atlantic coast is essentially a
maritime one, and the differences between the extremes of temperature are not
CLIMATE. -EIVEES. D
very great. In the east, where the equalising influence of the ocean is less felt,
the summers are warmer, the winters more severe than on the coast. The farther
we proceed inland the more will lines of equal winter and summer temperature
be found to diflfer. Localities in Eastern France, whose mean annual temperature
is inferior to that of localities on the coast, nevertheless enjoy a higher tempera-
ture than the latter during summer. The influence which these varying con-
Fig. 6. — Lines op Equal Wimteb and Summeb Tempeuatuke for Pahis.
y^ »i J.' *\ j\ ., / .K*'A~u i» y \* \^ \' 1
y ^^^?>'^^.
J\. %<, ,^v'tm^uiA \ /vj"''^ Jfi^f^v*^ y^'^''^^""''^ ] \">*'^(5^SSGy
y^^ji^^^-^^^^^--^-^ C^^\-"^^^£i^^ \^'
*\r^^ \^ \^^^ 't^sS.^ \,^^(.~
" ""^^S^^^^S"
■■^^^^•slN^^lIr^v^^^ O •■■''^^^^^-^v^^\1t^^^^"^^^
** •3'^^^f*'A'*''^CT /- /^"^s/^ ■•'' ^\'\^\^5t'lf'''^^^^^iiLlstL.
^^^^^yhZ ii/Cui^v/IS^k^"' V^^^ ^
" ''-'^^^^Kvm^l^^S"
••"""""■^ ^Mm^^^^^M"
o ' r^V'W''''^"?'^ r?^-^/ £\^^Vrv^''^"'^ i/^i^^^sf^^^
" « l^^Si^^%-^fe^^K^
I h^^^^^^^^^^^m^
1 f^jS-j^ I '\ u _=<r=>^'^^*^ ^vBfeft^^^Crv— -^/7 ' -'J"^^^^~\Jc^^^
--■^?''*--r--<?'*™25P^^^^ vr/^\5^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
"^^Pt^?. ->*■*'
f/ Jl », / „: n/^z-mL^i .. \J i« ij llf 1?
Meajv 2ei7tfierature' of iear, So'* F
.> i> II Jamuiry 3S°s F.
» V » Jafy 65 'U F.
ditions of temperature exercise upon vegetation is apparent, for some plants
require a comparatively high mean annual temperature, whilst olhers, like the
vine, do not suffer from frost, but require a high summer temperature.
The mean direction of the winds in France has been coTnputed by Kaemtz and
Martens at S 88" W. ; that is to .«ay, they blow up the lower valley of the Loire.
The proportions between easterly and westerly winds is as lUU to 152, that
87
10 FRANCE.
between northerly and southerly winds as 100 to 103. The preponderance of
westerly and southerly winds would be still more marked, did not the Pyrenees
oppose an obstacle to their progress. Along the Atlantic seaboard north-westerly
winds prevail, on the Channel south-westerly winds. Their direction, as a
matter of course, is modified by local causes and the configuration of the land ;
but thus much may be assumed as certain, that the atmosphere of France is being
continually renewed from the west.
In the valley of the Lower Rhone, which forms almost a world of its own as
regards climate, the direction of the winds is quite different : they blow up and
down this narrow valley, either from the Mediterranean or from the north.
Between the Spanish frontier and the Rhone, as well as to the east of that river
as far as the Hyeres, north-westerly winds predominate, whilst along the valley
of the Rhone itself the prevailing wind blows from the north, in the direction of
the Mediterranean. Thus, whilst the Atlantic slopes of France are exposed to a
preponderance of sea breezes, it is the land winds which prove victorious on the
Mediterranean slopes.
The configuration of the soil exercises as great an influence upon the distribu-
tion of the rain as it does upon the direction of the winds. The country, in that
respect, may be divided into three zones. Summer rains prevail in the north and
in the centre, as also in Germany and nearly the whole of continental Europe ;
autumn rains prevail in the west ; and on the Mediterranean slopes two rainy
seasons can be distinguished, viz. one in the beginning of the year, the other in
autumn : summer rains are rare there.
The amount of rain varies exceedingly in different localities. Along the sea it
is generally abundant ; the quantity decreases as we proceed inland, but the
mountains in the interior of the country form a second region where the pre-
cipitation is considerable, and on a map of France showing the distribution of
rainfall these mountain ranges stand out very distinctly. As a general rule the
quantity of ruin increases from west to east, and from north to south ; that is, in
the direction in which the land rises. In the south, where the air owing to
higher temperature is capable of holding a greater amount of moisture in suspen-
sion, the rain after storms sometimes descends in torrents. Upon the whole,
however, the rainfall near the Mediterranean is less than near the Atluntic, and
the air there is drier, a feature suflaciently explained by the prevalence of land
winds.
There are only three stations in France at which the annual rainfall
approaches eighty inches. These are the Pyrenees of Gavarnie, which inter-
cept the moist winds blowing from the Bay of Biscay ; the mountains of the
Tanargue, between the sources of the Ardeche and Loire ; and the Alps to the north
of Gap. On the western slopes of the mountains and on the plateau of Limousin
the rainfall exceeds forty inches. It is least in a district embracing Meaux,
Troyes, Epemay, and Compiegne, which is remote from the sea as well as from
the mountain region, is badly wooded, and consists for the most part of chalk.
At Dunkirk, likewise, it rains but little, for the winds prevailing there part with
CLIMATE.— filVERS. U
their moisture whilst passing across England. From a careful computiition made
bv M. Delesse it appears that the rainfall throughout France averages 30'3
inches.
The number of rainy days varies quite as much as the amount of rain. At
Abbeville rain fulls on 175 days in the year, at Lille on 1(J9 days, whilst
Marseilles has only 55 and Hyeres 40 rainy days. As a rule the number
of rainy days decreases as we travel towai'ds the south-east, and where
this is the case the rains are proportionately heavy. Storms, which occur
generally during summer, afflict as a rule the centre and the east of the
country, and M. Becquerel has shown that they blow ordinarily along the great
valleys.
Speaking broadly, France may be divided into seven climatic regions, of which
that of the great granitic plateau occupies the centre Britany, in the north-west,
is remarkable for its equable temperature , the northern region, named after its
principal river the Seine, is distinguished by a paucity of rain, while in the region
of the Meuse and the Vosges the extremes between cold and heat are greatest.
The three southern regions are distributed in an analogous manner. The climate
of the Gironde and of the Rhone is mild and humid; that of the Mediterranean
is changeable ; heavy rains alternate with periods of drought, and the winds
are high.*
The climate of a country is reflected to a great extent in its rivers. Unless
these are fed by glaciers or flow for considerable distances underground, they
reflect the succession of seasons very fairly. Great is the contrast between the
torrents of the Mediterranean and the rivers and rivulets of hilly Britany. On
the southern slopes of the Cevennes, scorched in turn by the sun or lashed by
showers of rain, the torrent beds, dry during the greater part of the year, are
converted after rains into mighty rivers, sweeping before them vast masses of
debris. These tcadis of Languedoc diflfer most essentially from the quiet rivulets
of Normandy and Britany, which flow steadily throughout the year, and scarcely
ever overflow their banks.
The rivers of France flow in opposite directions towards the Atlantic and the
Mediterranean. The Rhfine, rising in a glacier like the Rhine, and flowing
through a large lake, takes its course to the south. Where it traverses the plain
which formerly was merely a gulf of the sea, it receives numerous tributaries
descending from the Alps and the Cevennes, and when the alluvium brought
down by it shall have filled up the Lion Gulf, it will number amongst its affluents
aima«el^o„.. V J!"" Il'S.^!""^^ik.e,.
• Limousin fl.tinoges) .... 61 '8 — —
Britany (Bi«st) 6)-l 62-2 44-8
The Seinp (Paris) 600 64 6 379
Vosges (Nancy) 500 6.5- 1 3o-2
Gironde (Boideaux) .... 66-3 711 430
Rhflne (Lyons) 6.3-2 70 0 371
Medit-iranean (Montpellier) . 58-3 71-6 42 4
Average for FniQce .... 61 8 680 410
Me n
Direc ioa
of WinHs.
RninfilL
in.
D^ys with Seasf^ns
11 iin. of heaviest
No. Rains.
—
36
— Autumn
W.
28
208 do.
w.
20
1.54 Aut. and Sum,
8.W., N.E,
, 31
120 Summer
W.
32
160 Autumn
N.
31
110 do.
N.W.
W.
29
30
— Spring & Auc,
140 Autumn
12
FRANCE.
the Herault, Orb, Aude, and other rivers of Roussillon, for all these, as well as the
livers rising in Provence, converge upon that gulf.
On the other hand, the rivers flowing down the Atlantic slope take a divergent
course, and a line drawn through their sources is much shorter than one con-
necting their estuaries. As to Britany, it constitutes a hydrographicai region
apart; and neither its commanding position nor its excellent harbours have
countervailed the disadvantage of its lying outside the great river systems of
France.
Fig. 6.— Comparative Ak^a of River Basins and Average Surface Dhainaob.
Horizontal Scile 1 : 20,000, OCO. V.rtical Scale 1 : 50.
France^
"kKoiu
™rrr— — ---ri^j
i
f •
% 2 : 20.000.000
JS'^o
dvifhyiy Rain/ Foil
in/ Franc*'.
AveroMi SarFaet'
MhoTte-
Sane/ Gironde/
Lovre^
Formerly it was supposed that the waters discharged by large rivers like the
Loire or Seine far exceeded in amount what could be derived from the rains, and
their sources were consequently supposed to communicate with reservoirs fed by
the ocean. Bernard Palissy and Denys Papin (1669-- 72) first demonstrated the
erroneousness of this view, and careful observations have revealed the fact that
only one-third or at most one-half the rain that falls throughout France finds its
way back to the sea by means of the rivers, the remainder being absorbed by the
vegetation or evaporating.*
• River systems of France according to Delesse, Ch. Martins, Thom^ de Gamond &c : —
River.
Miles.
Somme 133
Seine 482
Vileine 143
L'lire 609
Charento 224
Gironde C16
Adour
Auile
Rhone (with Saone ")
and Doubs) )
Moselle (in France) .
Mense do.
Scheldt (Escaut, do.)
France ....
187
139
637
194
318
75
8q. m.
2,144
30,927
3,707
44,459
3,860
35,962
6,564
2,510
38,096
2,606
2,898
2,518
00,315
Average
Eainfall.
In.
25 2
24-8
27-6
27-2
33-4
32-5
39-4
27-6
37-4
29-5
2S-3
23-6
30-3
EainfiU
in Millions
^of cub. ft.
12.5,443
1,646,380
237,327
2,689,356
300,190
2,622,290
600,386
160,090
3,310,340
178,770
190,710
140,858
14,109,000
Surface
Drainage
in Millions
cf cub. ft.
63,500 (?)
772,160
223,600 (?)
1,096,700
106,000
1,312,000
247,200 (?)
71.000 (?)
1,915,430
55,660 (?)
88,290
6:t,500
6,710,000
Discharge
per Second.
Cub. ft.
2.013 (?)
24,510
3,880 (?)
31,786
3,354 (?)
41,600
7,840 (?)
2,225 (?)
63,850 (?)
1,770 (?)
2,800 (?)
2.014 (?)
212 000 (?)
THE PREHISTOBIC AGE OF FRANCE. 18
The rain which finds its way through rivers to the sea is one of the most
powerful geological agents. The ravines and valleys of the Pyrenees, the Cevennes,
the Alps, and the Jura exhibit its power of erosion : the layers of sand and mud
deposited along the banks of the Loire after floods testify to its giving birth to
new land, and at the mouths of the Rhone we may see how a river causes the
land to encroach upon the sea. The fecund soil of the Limagne, Touraine,
Agenais, and Bigorre, those gardens of France, is entirely a gift of the rivers.
The rivers, owing to the fertility of their banks, have proved the most power-
ful agents of civilisation in France, as everywhere else. In former times they
alone were available for the transport of merchandise and travellers on a
large scale, and most of the great towns grew up on their banks. Towns not
situated on navigable rivers, such as Nimes, Montpellier, Dijon, and Reims, were
mere stages on the roads connecting these river highways. Roads and railways
have to some extent deprived the rivers of the importance they enjoyed in former
times, and considerable towns have sprung up far away from them, near mines,
mineral springs, or fine scenery. St. Etienne, Le Creuzot, and Bagneres-de-
F'g- 7. — Comparative Dischakoe of the Great Rivers op Framce.
Horizontal Scale 1 ; 4,000.
Shatter Sant) Gijvndt^ Zoirv Th^mhoU^J' Franai/.
Luchon are of this class. The rivers, on the other hand, are being rendered
more useful to man from day to day. Canals are dug to connect them or to
irrigate the fields in their vicinity, embankments are thrown up to regulate them,
and their water is rendered available as a motive power. Still most of their
water is allowed to run to waste, and the day is yet apparently very distant
when they will be exhaustively utilised in the service of man.
The Prehistoric Age of Feance.*
Fkance had its inhabitants long before the events of history were placed on
record. Human bones mixed with those of animals, rude implements of peace
and war, and rudimentary works of art amply prove this. With Belgium and
the basins of the Rhine it is probably richer in these prehistoric remains than
any other country, and many caves and heaps of debris have become famous on
account of them.
Anthropologists are generally agreed that the most ancient examples of human
• Hnmv, " Piileontolouie hiimaine;" ttabriel de Morlillct, "Tableau archeoloffique de laG.iiile;"
lAiU t el Lhristy, " Keliquiuj Aquibinicie ; " Bioca, " (Jompte-rendu du Congrcs intern, de I'aris, 1867."
j^ FRANCE.
workmanship are the flint implements discovered by M. Bourgomg near Thenay,
in the vaUey of the Cher. In the tertiary age, when the contemporaries of acero-
therium and mastodon fashioned these rude implements, the aspect of France
was very different from what it is now, and there existed neither the same plants
nor the same animals.
Centuries passed away, and the men who dwelt in the plains bordering upon the
Somme and the Seine, on the plateaux of Central France, and along the foot of the
Pyrenees had learnt to fashion flint implements of a superior kind, and with these
they pursued the elephants, hippopotami, rhinoceroses, and other animals which at
that time roamed over the lands of the Gauls. At a subsequent period, when the
rhinoceros had been exterminated, when man had expelled the bears from the
caverns to dwell therein himself, and when the horse, with the mammoth, was one
of the commonest animals, these stone implements began to be fashioned in greater
variety, to serve the needs of hunters, fishing, and domestic labour. Later still,
the bones and horns of animals were made use of, and frequently the figures of
animals and even of men were engraved upon them. Artists must have lived at
that time, though their names are for ever lost to us. Ornaments and figures
which they engraved upon their stag-horns are the same in style as those met with
subsequently on the vases dating back to the age of dolmens, on the arms of the
ancient Gauls, and even on some Gallo-Roman monuments.
Once launched upon the path of invention, man never turns back. Some sort
of relapse appears to have taken place after the reindeer age, but this applies
only to the ornamentation, and may be accounted for by an inflow of immigrants
inferior in civilisation to the older inhabitants of the country. At the same time
new weapons came into use ; man had acquired the art of polishing stones, and of
making durable earthenware. Later still he learnt to cultivate the soil, and to
train domestic animals. Tiie old cave dwellings no longer sufficed for his wants,
houses arose in the plains, and solid structures of stone were erected by the men
of the neolithic age, wherein to deposit their dead. They threw up entrenchments
as a defence against enemies, and those who lived along the margins of rivers or
lakes erected their dwellings upon piles, thus securing themselves against unex-
pected attacks. In France itself these lake dwellings are scarce, but they abound
in Switzerland. No written record or tradition reaches back to that neolithic age,
but we know from the objects discovered in tombs and dwellings that bronze had
come into use. Imported from abroad, we find it applied to the most varied uses,
either cast or wrought.
A new era began with the introduction of iron, which was fashioned not only
into weapons, but also into tools of every description. Thenceforth human art and
industry took a rapid development. The numerous grave-hills scattered over the
country abound in curious objects deposited there by the relations of the defunct.
History begins to dawn, and we find ourselves in the presence of those tribes of
various races formerly known as Gauls.
There can be no doubt that the most populous districts of modern France were
also the centres of civilisation of the Celtic, Iberian, and Ligurian ancestors of the
THE PREHISTORIC AGE OF FRANCE.
16
modem French, although no traces of them have been discovered there. Their
towns have vanished, ruins have succeeded ruins, until all remains of the ancient
occupiers of the land have been reduced to dust. If we would find truces of them
we must penetrate into the woods, and into those remote p:irts of the country
where the population h.is at all times been thinly sown. The heaths of Britanv
and the plateaux of Poitou still abound in dolmens and menhirs ; in the woods of
Franche-Comte grave-hills are met with in thousands ; on the granitic soil of
Central France we may still trace the pits which formed the underground story
of the Gallic houses ; whilst the pine woods of the Landes abound in vast
trenches (cfotes), which mayhap sheltered the population of a village until it
was driven forth by invading Celts or Basques. But these dwellings, remote as
they were from the centres of civilisation, can hardly convey an idea of the con-
Fia;. 8.— Dol-ek-Vehchant, oh Merchants' Table, at Locmariaker.
dition of the population of ancient France, any more than an idea of our present
century could be obtained from the half-obliterated ruins of our out-of-the-way
hamlets.
Ever since the tertiary age the surface of France has been changing slowly
through geological agencies, and without catastrophes. We may assume, there-
fore, that the population of modern France has m its veins some of the blood of
these ancient tribes. The invading conquerors of France have become amalga-
mated with the tribes whom they found living there, and thus arose a race
resembling a trunk with thousands of roots, and known as the French " nation."
We cannot otherwise explain the astonishing variety of types met with in the
different provinces of France. As M. Andre Sanson says, " We are the intel-
lectual sons of the Aryans, but not their carnal sons."
jg FRANCE.
The most ancient human remains hitherto discovered in France date back to
the quaternary epoch, for miocene man, who wrought the tools discovered at
Thenay, has left no trace. To judge from the skulls discovered under the lava
of Denise, near the Puy en-Velay, in Auvergne, the men of that period were
loiig-skuUed, but towards the close of the age of the mammoth and the bear,
short skulls are first met with. Archaeologists are agreed that the men who dwelt
in the caverns of the Pyrenees, on the Vezere and the Aveyron, were kinsmen of
the Laps, Saraoyeds, and Eskimos. Their mode of life, their weapons and imple-
ments, and even their style of ornamentation, all appear to support that conclusion.
An invasion of barbarians destroyed the civilisation then attained, but gave birth
in the end to a new era of civilisation much superior in many respects.
The Inhabitants of France.*
The Iberians are the most ancient inhabitants of Gaul known to history. They
were kinsmen of those of Spain, who traded with Phcenicians and Greeks, and
whom the latter looked upon as aborigines. These Iberians occupied the country
between the Atlantic Ocean and the Garonne, as well as the valleys of the eastern
Pyrenees. In the west they were associated with the Ligurians of the Mediter-
ranean, and elsewhere they came into contact with Celtic or Kymric tribes.
Though Latinised, they have in a large extent their race characteristics ; they have
even retained their ancient appellation of Gascons and Basques, and near the
Pyrenees they retain their old language. Basques, Bearnais, and Gascons can
easily be distinguished from other Frenchmen ; they are full of natural grace,
supple of limb and mind, gay when at work, brave, though boastful, talkative, and
imaginative to the extent of sometimes allowing themselves to be carried beyond
the bounds of truth.
The Celts, a race quite distinct from the Iberians, occupied the country to the
north of the Garonne. Most modern Frenchmen look upon these as their veri-
table ancestors, though very little is known about them. Ancient authors can
hardly assist us in elucidating this point, for they wrote about the regions
beyond the Alps much as our ancestors wrote about Central Africa. Modern
historians, led away by false patriotism or by a rage for classification, have still
further obscured this question, which is only in recent times being cleared up by
the discovery of arras, weapons, dwellings, and human remains hidden for agea
beneath the soil.
Williams, Edwards, and Broca have shown satisfactorily, from a comparison of
skulls and bones thus discovered, that ancient Gaul was inhabited by two distinct
types of man, in addition to Iberians. The first type is met with between the
Garonne and the Seine. These Gauls, or Celts, as they were formerly called, were
small of stature, of a brown complexion, and short-skulled, wliilst the tribes in the
north-east, whether we call them Tielgn? or Kymri, were tali, fair, and long-skulled.
* A. Ilovelacque, " La Linguistique ; " Fustrf de Coiilanges, "Histoire dos Institutions pohtiques de
rAiicienne Franco;" Lafriioau, "Bull, de la 8oc. d'Anthropologie," Feb. 1868, Nov. 1874; "lievue
d' Anthropologic," tome ii. l.s;3; Saint-Rene Taillandicr, " Revue des Deux-Mondes," Dec. 1875.
THE INHABITANTS OF FRANCE.
17
Ancient authors only describe these latter, jjrobably because they were the most
warlike. The men described by Aminianus Marcellinus, like the Gauls repre-
sented by Roman and Greek sculptors, rather resemble Scandinavians, and they
were certainly not the direct ancestors of the present inhabitants of Central France.
Subjected tribes of a different type may possibly have lived amongst these Gauls of
ancient authors, and been numerically superior to them. At present the physical
type of the populations of Southern Europe prevails almost throughout France.
We can hardly assume that a slight change in the climate, brought about by time
and cultivation, should have exercised an influence sufficient to account for this
southern type. Taken as a body, the French are in reality a brown-complexioned
people, with heads round rather than oval, with eyes varj'ing between black and
Kg. 9. — PauiMisD Dispersion op the Aryan Races accordino to Ancient Authors.
pale brown ; with a stature and muscular development rather below the average,
but of strong constitutions and capable of resisting fatigue and privations.
Of these ancient Gauls there now exist only geographical names and a few
short inscriptions. To judge from these their language appears to have differed
very much from the dialects spoken in Great Britain, and to have had more affinity
with Latin. Still the Aryan nature of the language does not prove that the
people who spoke it were of Asiatic origin. Omalius d'Halloy altogether denies
that an exodus of Gauls took place from Western Asia, and the map of Aryan
migrations prep-.ircd by I'ictet, though of scientific value, cannot prove it. All we
know is that the Gauls dwelt for some time in the valley of the Danube.
There can be no doubt that we must trace the existing character of the popula-
18 FRANCE.
tion of France back to the tribes who inhabited the country anterior to the hisroric
epoch. Still we must not lose sight of the influence exercised by immigrants of
foreign races. The Phoenicians confined themselves to a few factories along the
shore of the Mediterranean, and were succeeded by the Greeks, whose colonies —
Marseilles, Nice, Agde, and others — were of sufficient importance to enable them to
exercise an appreciable influence upon the surrounding populations. Many Greek
expressions have survived to our day, and the Marseillais have no doubt reason on
their side when they boast of their Hellenic ancestors.
The Romans, however, those merciless conquerors of the Gauls, exercised a far
greater influence upon the formation of the French nation than did the Greeks.
Italian colonists, many of them old soldiers, settled in the country, and this immi-
gration, going on for six centuries, led to so considerable an infusion of Roman
blood that several towns in the south could fairly be described as daughters of
Rome, and the entire population as Gallo-Roman. These physical influences,
however, were far surpassed by moral ones. It was the Romans who introduced
the ideas and civilisation of the East, and more than all, they made Latin the
tongue of the entire country. Language is the mould of thought, and must
influence most powerfully the mind of a nation. The French, speaking a Latin
tongue, must therefore be ranged amongst the Latin races, in spite of their most
diverse origin. Though belonging geographically to the Atlantic countries rather
than to the Mediterranean ones, historically France forms a member of these latter,
more especially since Algeria has become a French colony.
Nevertheless, the barbarians, who after the fall of the Roman empire repeatedly
invaded France, whether Franks from the Rhine, Northmen, or Huns from the
plateaux of Asia, always came from the North. Scandinavian Visigoths established
themselves in the south of France, and more especially in the Narbonnaise, and
soon adapted themselves to their Gallo-Roman surroundings. The Germanic
Burgundians, who occupied Eastern France, are described by their contemporaries
as tall and strong, but at the same time good-natured. The Franks were far more
harsh towards the tribes they conquered. In the end they gave a new name to
transalpine France, and more particularly to that province of it which is known as
He de France.
M. Fustel de Coulanges does not think that those early German and Gothic
invasions sensibly affected the character of the Gallo-Roman populations. The
language and religion, social usages and political institutions, remained the same.
But though the Germans never arrived in bodies sufficiently large to change
the character of the people, their immigration continued for centuries, and in
the end their influence upon its physique became very app irent. M. Broca, in
his researches on the stature of Fi-enchmen, has shown this very clearly (see
Fig. 10).
The Normans, who settled in that portion of France now known as Normandy,
likewise influenced the type of the inhabitants of Neustria. In the south of
France " sea-kings " of quite a different kind put in an appearance. These were
the Saracens, who maintained themselves for a considerable time on the coasts of
THE INHABITANTS OF FEANCE.
19
Provence. In the eighth century, when the Berbers invaded Europe in such
overpowering numbers, these Saracens penetrated as far as the valley of the Loire,
and perhaps even to Luxeuil and Metz, and the inhabitants of Verdun are said to
have carried on a lucrative trade in slaves with them. Colonies of Saracens were
established in many parts of France, and there can be no doubt that numbers of the
Frenchmen now living in the basins of the Garonne and the Rhone are the remote
descendants of Mussvdmans.
Fig. 10. — The Stature ov Frenchmen.
ByBroca.
L^N'l.Ze ^^N?23-i2
N?i>J. 86
The departments are numhered according to the stature of their military conscripts. The small
figures indicate the exemptions granted jjer thousand on account of small stature.
Since those invasions of Xormans and Moors, the ethnical character of the popu-
lation of France has undergone no wholesale change, for the influence of English
settlers in Guyenne, of German lamquenefs and reitres who remained in the country
at the close of the religious wars, and of the Spaniards in Flanders and Franche-
Comte, has been quite of a local nature. On the other hand, the vast peaceable
immigration which has been going on for some time past is certainly bringing
about changes, and in the presence of the cosmopolitan population of some of the
20 FEANCB.
large cities, a stranger may well be puzzled to tell whether it is a Frenchman he
has before him or not. It almost appears as if a European type were gradually
coming into existence.
In the meantime the population of France has been welded into a nation, and
in certain respects this nation exhibits greater unity than any other. This
cohesion is due not so much to the existence of a centralized government, but
rather to historical events, community of interests and of language, and to the
existence of a capital which is universally acknowledged as the common national
centre.
Ancient rivalries between the provinces of France have not, however, alto-
gether disappeared. The Bretons, Basques, and Flemish have even retained their
distinct language, and the peasants of some of the more remote districts can hardly
be said to have been assimilated with the rest of the population. Throughout
France, however, these local diversities are of a very subordinate nature, the
influence of the great towns is increasing from day to day, and the landmarks
between the old provinces have almost disappeared.
Of all the inhabitants of France, those living respectively in the north and the
south difier most strikingly. This difference is accounted for by the nature of the
country, diversity of historical traditions, and the memories of struggles carried on
in a past age. In a great portion of Southern France the Proven9al and other dialects
are still the dominant tongue, and about twenty years ago French was hardly
known by the bulk of the population. But as a literary language these southern
dialects have no future, and those even who speak them often hold them in
contempt.
On looking at the map it will be found that the dialects of Southern France,
including the " langue d'oc " properly so called, Provencal, Dauphinois, Lyonnais,
Auvergnat, Limousin, Gascon, and B^arnais, occupy very nearly one-half the area
of the country. Nearly the whole basin of the Rhone, that of the Garonne, and
the upper tributaries of the Loire belong to this half, and in the direction of
Switzerland it extends even beyond the French frontier and comes into contact
with German dialects. The wide range of these southern dialects proves the former
preponderance of Southern France in the work of civilisation, but the " langue
d'oil " is at present steadily gaining ground.
Language constitutes the strongest tie between man and man. We may fairly
say that the French language, the origin of which dates back a thousand years,
gave birth to the French nation. Common woes may have engendered a sort of
fellow-feeling amongst the diverse populations of ancient Gaul; they nearly all
combined in the time of Vercingetorix against their Roman oppressors. But Gaul
was merely a geographical expression then, and modern France only dates from
the time of the epic poems of the Middle Age.
In the course of centuries this language, as well as the men who speak it,
has undergone many changes. We can hardly conceive such a thing as an
average Frenchman. Those who maintain that the national character has under-
gone no changes ever since the Gauls appeared upon the stage of history are
THE INHABITANTS OF FRANCE. 21
decidedly in the wrong. There may still exist features which recall the Gauls
of Caesar and Strabo, but can it be fairly said of modern French peasants what has
been said of the Gauls, that " they ore a people of war and uproar, running
through the world with swords in their hands, less, it appears, from avidity than
from a vague desire of seeing, knowing, and acting ? "
If we would meet a typical Frenchman, we must searcn for him in a place
offering every facility for his development. Such places are the large towns,
and more especially Paris, to which original minds fly from the stifling atmo-
sphere of small towns and villages. There the natives from every province come
into contact and amalgamate : the babbling Gascons, ever in motion ; the men
from the plateau, inured to hard work, and slow to make friends ; the people
from the Loire, with their quick eyes, lucid intellect, and well-balanced tempera-
ment ; the melancholic Breton, always living as in a dream, but full of tenacity
in all concerns of real life ; the Norman, slow-speaking, circumspect, and prudent ;
and the men from Lorraine, the Vosges, and Franche-Comt^, who are quick-
tempered and enterprising. All these Frenchmen mutually influence each other,
and evolve what may be called the general character of the French people.
It is no easy task to sit in judgment over a nation. Since the days of the
illustrious Grimm, who denied " every truly moral sentiment " to Frenchmen,
many foreigners, from envy or ignorance, have painted them in odious colours.
On the other hand, there have been writers who have sought to elevate France
above all other nations. As to French writers, they have been charged either
with being prejudiced in favour of the nation to which they belong, or with
unfairly under-estimating its merits ; and, indeed, psychology is one of the most
difficult subjects of discussion.
Speaking broadly, the character of the French exhibits a combination of
northern and southern qualities. The country itself is intermediate between the
Mediterranean and the Atlantic, and its inhabitants form a link between the
Roman civilisation of the South, and modern times. The most diverse types are
met with amongst the French, but, as a whole, they present a new type, in which
classical features are replaced by mobility of expression, one-sided energy by
varied aptitudes. As a rule Frenchmen, and more especially Frenchwomen, are
most impressionable, and they are capable of fully reflecting the ideas conceived
by other nations. It is thus that all the great movements of Europe have found
a powerful echo in France, if they did not originate there. This explains too
the universal character of the French revolutions. It was France which pro-
claimed the "Rights of Man," and posterity no doubt will praise her for it; it
is France which does not allow its progress to be stopped by matters of detail,
but always seeks for principles.
It is only natural that a nation holding the position of an intenncdiary of
ideas should be eminently sociable. A feeling of inborn goodwill attracts the
Frenchman towards his fellow-men, a spirit of equity dictates his conduct ; he
obliges by forethought and captivates by amiability. He is discreet in all things,
pleasing in dress and manners, without outraging good taste, and excels in the
22 FBANCE.
art of conversation. The Frenchwoman is in these respects even a better repre-
sentative of the national character. She is not only an excellent mother and
housewife, but possesses social qualities of the highest order. She delights by
her conversation, and constitutes the chief attraction of French society. It
seldom happens that foreigners do not enjoy themselves in France, but a French-
man scarcely ever feels perfectly happy in a foreign land, and no one feels more
cruelly than he the bitterness of exile.
The sons of Gaul are distinguished not only by quickness of comprehension
and superior reasoning powers, but they are remarkable amongst all civilised
nations for their tact and taste. For a long time they were looked up to as
the arbiters in literature, and in certain departments of art they still stand
unrivalled. Several of the neighbouring nations are indebted to them for a
development of their art industries, and Paris still remains the high school ' of
good taste.
France is a busy beehive, as is shown by the immense quantities of French
produce exported to other countries. In spite of the excessive subdivision of the
soil, the peasant landowners have converted France into one of the most productive
countries of Europe. Activity such as this not only testifies to the strength
of family ties, but also to the personal worth of the workers. Moreover, the
revivals which have succeeded each national disaster prove that the nation is still
full of vigour, and fully capable of taking its part in the great works of humanity.
But if Frenchmen have their virtues, they also have their faults. Their
sociability often degenerates into undue familiarity ; clever talkers on every
possible subject, they run the risk of becoming superficial ; men of taste and
refinement, they are apt to sacrifice vigour and originality ; too observant of
social propriety, they sometimes stifle the voice of their conscience ; members
of society or of " parties," they have not always the courage to assert their manly
independence. But in these respects how many true men do we meet with in
any nation ?
But, in spite of all, France has exercised a most powerful influence upon the
civilised world. Numerically the influence of Frenchmen grows smaller in
proportion as the area held by civilised nations extends ; but moral and intellec-
tual influences are not measured by numbers. The national life of France is
as intense as that of any of her sister nations, and her past experiences will
enable her to play an important part in the political and social evolution now
impending. But even if France were to disappear from the world's stage, there
would still remain the influence of the French language and literature. The
vigour, grace, precision, and suppleness of that language have made it one of
the most perfect vehicles of human thought. It has been propagated far beyond
the territorial limits of the nation, and millions speak it, not only in the Latin
countries, but in all other parts of the world.
-a
as
o
CHAPTER II.
THE PYRENEES, THE LANDES, AST) THE BASIN OF THE GARONNK
The Pyrenees.*
HE region of the Pyrenees constitutes a distinct and separate portion
of France, whether we look upon its geology or the history of its
inhabitants. From the very first they differed from those inhabit-
^^ ing the remainder of Gaul, and even now the Catalans of Roussillon
" and the Basques resemble in language and manners their neigh-
bours of the Iberian peninsula. But it is principally because the Pyrenees
form the northern edge of the Iberian plateau, which is geologically bounded
by the lowland of the Garonne, that they form a region apart.
The lowland referred to extends from sea to sea, and up to the tertiary epoch
was occupied by a strait connecting the Mediterranean with the Atlantic Ocean.
This ancient sea-bed has gradually been upheaved, and is traversed now by the
Aude, the Garonne, and their numerous tributary rivers, joined more than two
centuries ago by a navigable canal, affording communications between the two seas.
This Canal du Midi may be said to form the southern limit of continental Europe,
for the Pyrenees which rise beyond already belong to a world half African in its
nature.
The vast depression which separates the Pyrenees from the Cevennes is one of
the great natural high-roads of France, which, however, is far less important than
the great northern roads, which place Marseilles and Bordeaux in communication
with Paris. Still a region which can boast of towns like Bordeaux and Toulouse,
*hich enjoys a mild climate, and possesses a fecUnd soil, must exercise considerable
local influence.
The Pyrenees and the Alberes, which bound this southern region of France,
extend like a wall from sea to sea. As compared with the Alps, the geological
♦ H. Maffnan, " Materiaux pour une Etudo Btratigraphique des Pyrenees;" Companyo, "Histoire
naturc'lle dcs Pyrenocs-Oritnt.iles," 1861; De Chausonque, " Les Pyri'nees," 1854; Russell-Killotigh,
"Grandes Ascrnsions des Pyrcnf-es;" "Bulletin de la Socicte Ramond," 18(i7, 1868, 1870, 1875;
" Annuairc du Club Alpin irmu^ii," 1876 ; Colvet, "Progres rural dans les Pyrenees;" P. Raymond,
" Diet, des Basses Pyr^n^es."
24
FRANCE.
structure of these mountains is of tte simplest, and one might fancy that they had
been suddenly ejected from a fissure in the earth's crust. Its mountain masses are
not separated by low passes, as in the Alps, and there is no difficulty in tracing the
direction of the main range, which runs almost in a straight line from Cape Creus
to the lower mountains of the Basque countries.
The geological features are equally simple. Granites, apparently not of erup-
tive origin, occupy the centre of the chain, and form many of the summits of the
main range. Schists and other ancient rocks connect these crystalline masses,
whilst sedimentary strati succeed each other in regular order on both slopes, from
triassic sandstones down to the alluvial soil deposited by the rivers.
In spite of this general regularity, the chain of the Pyrenees presents p great
amount of diversity if studied in detail. About its centre, where the head-waters
of the Garonne take their rise, the main range consists of two parallel ridges joined
together by a transversal chain. The northern ridge extends to the east, and
forms the Mediterranean Pyrenees, whilst the southern stretches west towards the
Fig. 11. — Profile of the Pyrenees.
Horizontal Scale 1 : 4,C00,00O. Vertical Scale 1 : 400,000.
Bay of Biscay, and constitutes the Atlantic Pyrenees. Of these two chains the
eastern is the least elevated, and the granite there is nearly always exposed ; whilst
the more elevated summits of the western Pyrenees consist of schists and lime-
stones. This shows that denudation has been going on more actively in the
former, and in a large measure accounts for the striking contrasts in the aspect of
the two extremities of the chain, and for the great variety of landscape met with
when travelling along their northern foot from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic*
The Pyrenees rise steeply from the Mediterranean, which, at a distance of only
twenty-five miles from Cape Creus, has a depth of over 500 fathoms. Close to that
cape rises the group of Sin Pedro de Roda, resembling a detached outwork con-
nected with the frontier range of Alberes by a rugged ridge. The frontier range
named gradually increases in height from 660 to 5,000 feet, as we proceed from
Cape Cerbere to the mountains of Prats de MoUo and Campredon, and is indebted
• Lensih of Pyrenees from Cape Creus to Cape Sainte-Anne, near Hendaye, 266 niiloa: average
breadth, exeUiaive of Spanish foot-hilla, 51 miles, area occupied, 13,563 sq. miles; average height, 3,940
feet (?) ; volume, 1,050 cubic miles.
THE PYEENEES.
25
for its name to the whiteness of its barren rocks. It rises steeply on the French
side, but slopes down gently towards the south. Many roads lead across it, and
have been used from the most ancient times. Near Amelie-les-Bains a wall most
erroneously ascribed to Hannibal is pointed out ; at the Col de Pertus (951 feet)
Pompey erected a trophy in commemoration of his victories, and Visigoths, Franks,
and Moors crossed there after him. Numerous fortifications bear witness to the
strategical importance of these passes of the Alberes. Collioure in France, and
Fig. 12. — Mont Canioou.
Scale 1 ; 240,000.
fi Miles.
Rosas in Spain, defend the road along the coast. Perpignan and Figueras defend
the outlets of the defil.s, and the French fort of Bellegarde secures the important
gorge of Pertus. At the present time these passes across the eastern Pyrenees are
no longer as important as they were when the Mediterranean was the centre of the
civilised world, and must yield to the road in the west which joins Lisbon and
Madrid to Paris.*
• AUitudcs in the Albires :— Pic dos Terraes, 3,6 1 » fcpt : Col dcs Balistres, SS3 feet ; Col de Banyuis,
1,182 feet; Col do Fcrtua, 961 feet; Coustouges, 2,724 feet. Col d'Ares, 4,920 feet.
38
26
FRANCE.
Mountains of considerable elevation attach the Alberes to the main range of the
Pyrenees, which is hidden behind the bold mass of Mont Canigou (9,141 feet).
With its spurs and foot-hills this majestic summit occupies the entire area between
the upp.r valleys of the Tech and the Tet. It is perfectly isolated on three sides,
Fig. 13.— PuY DE Cakliite.
Scale 1 : 240,000.
OdOi
. 6 Miles.
and the summits which attach it to the mam chain in the south are inferior to it
in height. Its bold i)yriimid does not yield in grandeur to that of Mount Etna ;
it is seen as far as Barcelona and Montpellie'-, and the astronomer Zach even
claims to have seen its dark profile projected against the disc of the setting sun
from Marseilles, a distance of 180 miles. Until rscsntly it was held to be the
THE PYRENEES.
27
highest summit of the Pyrenees. As a trigonometrical station it offers many advan-
tages, and its slopes have proved a fertile field of exploration to botanists.
The Pyrenees, to which is attached the Canigou, form one of the most barren
and inaccessible mountain systems in the world. The passes leading across them
are mere notches, cut to a depth of 600 to 900 feet at an elevation of about 8,200
Fig. 14. — The Defiles op the Aide.
Scale 1 ; 140,000.
feet, and the mountains near them are almost devoid of individual features. Even
the Puignial (0,o42 feet) rises but little above the extended rampart formed by the
mountains. A deep depression, excavated in the granitic rocks by mountain
torrents, separates it from another mountain mass further north. This is the Col
de la Perche {'>,'.]22 feet), guarded on the French side by Moutlouis (3,<J40 feet),
and on that of Spain by Puigcerda (Puycerda, 4,074 feet), built on a knoll of
28 FRANCE.
glacial origin ; and from it flow the rivers Tet and Segre, the latter a feeder of
the Ebro. The sources of both these rivers lie on French soil, and the political
boundary has been drawn in the most arbitrary manner. Some of the mountain
valleys near the pass fairly deserve their cognomen of " paradise of botanists,"
for curious plants found nowhere else in the Pyrenees may be gathered there.
The granitic mountains to the north of the fertile district of Li Cerdagne, on
the Upper Segre, rise from a huge quadrangular plateau which gives birth to the
head streams of the Tet, Segre, Ariege, and Aude, and is separated in the west
from Andorra by the much-frequented Pass of Puymaurens (6,293 feet). The
highest of these summits is the Puy de Carlitte (9,561 feet). At its foot detached
masses of rock are piled up in chaotic confusion, covered in places with moss, but
for the most part still bare of vegetation. Lakes and lakelets are scattered over
the plateau, and amongst these the Lanoux (black lake ?), 7,068 feet, is the
largest, though by no means the most beautiful ; for its dark waters only reflect
naked rocks and snows, whilst the lakes on the lower slopes are surrounded by
verdant meadows and woods. Another lake, at the head of the Tet, emptied itself
in the ninth century, and caused a fearful inundation. The mountaineers formerly
looked upon the many lakelets scattered over the Carlitte as so many remains
of the Flood, and Xoah's ark they supposed to have stranded on the Puy de
Prigue.
The ground to the north and east of this granitic plateau descends gradually,
sometimes forming terraces intersected by bold precipices. Some of these terraces
are still covered with woods of beech-trees and firs, but elsewhere the forests have
been destroyed, and the aspect of the mountains is forbidding. As in the French
Alps, we meet with formidable defiles, or chts, excavated by mountain torrents
to a depth of many hundred feet. The most famous of these is the defile of the
Aude, which even impresses persons accustomed to mountains. If we descend from
the Baths of Carcanieres into this abyss, we almost fancy we have penetrated into
the very bowels of the earth.
Various passes lead across the spurs of Mont Carlitte. The Quillanne (5,644
feet), thus named after the town of Quillan, connects the valley of the Tet with
that of the Aude. Another pass farther east is dedicated to Jau, or Jupiter
(4,964 feet), but is hardly used now. Lower still is the Pass of St. Louis (2,254
feet), which joins the valley of the Aude to that of the Agly, and through which
the road leads from Perpignan to Carcassonne. With it the Pyrenees terminate.
for with the scarped Puy de Bugarach (4,0;i8 feet), to the north of it, begins the
region of the Corbieres, so rem irkable on account of its geological formation, its
coal beds, and bone caves, but deprived of verdure and running water, and difficult
to traverse in summer, when its bleached rocks reflect the rays of the sun. These
hills long formed the boundary between France and Spain, and the fort of Salses,
which defended the road leading along their eastern foot, as well as the ruins of
many castles, recalls the struggle for the possession of this country, which only
terminated in the seventeen:h century. Mount Alaric (1,970 feet), to the north of
them, and close to the Aude, bears witness to the still more ancient contests
THE PYRENEES.
29
between Romans and Visigoth^;. It is one of the few rem^iining links of the
transversal chain which forraer'y joined the Pyrenees to the Cevennes.
The Pyrenees of Ariege, occupying the country of the ancient Sabartes, are far
more regular in their structure than the eastern extremity of the range. From
the Pass of Puymaurens (6,3:}6 feet) to the gorge of the Garonne — a distance of
110 miles — the main chain extends without a break. Its summits, amongst
which the Pique d'Estats (10,305 feet) and the Montcalm (10,102 feet) are the
most elevated, occupy in nearly every instance the axis of this sierra. Mont
Vallier (9,312 feet), which forms so striking an object when seen from Toulouse,
is no exception to this rule. Huge blocks of weather-worn granite cover the
Fig. 16. — The I»thmi-s betweex the CokbiLues and the Ceven.nzs.
■
Scile 1 : 1,1U0,0.).1.
O"! E.ofP
western slope of this mountain. From a dist.ince tJiese look like gruzing sheep
turned into stone by some sorcerer, as the legends have it
The lakes which formerly lent a charm to this portion of the Pyrenees have
long ago been drained. Only a few swamps are now left, and near these M.
Garrigou has discovered the remains of pile dwellings dating back to the age of
polished stone implements. But even without their ancient lakes these Pyrenees,
with their simple profile, terraces, and verdant slopes, are a noble sight. They are
typicil of the entire chain, and hence the name hiron or piren, wliich in the valley
<)f the Ariege was formerly applied to a sheep-walk in the mountains, transformed
into Pyrenees, became general.
30
FRANCE.
Two lateral chains run parallel with the Pyrenees of Ariege, the most elevated
of which ramifies from Mont Carlitte, and to the north of the valley of the Upper
Ariege attains a considerable height. Its culminating point, the Peak of Tabe, or
of St. B-irthelemy (7,704 feet), stands forth prominently. The mountaineers look
upon it with dread, and on its summit may still be seen the traces of ancient
excavations made by seekers after enchanted treasure. An inferior chain, farther
north, cannot boast of summits covered with snow far into the summer, nor of the
mountain pasture, lakelets, and limpid cascades of the Pyrenees. It is monotonous
of aspect, of inconsidei-able elevation, and in parts almost resembles the walls of a
-fortress. M. Leymerie, the geologist, has named it the Little Pyrenees.
These parallel ranges belong for the most part to the cretaceous formation, and
have been pierced by the riners which descend from the snow-clad crest of the
Pyrenees. The Ariege, haying passed to the south of the range of St. Earthelemy,
Fig. 16.— The Little Pvkenees.
Scale 1 : 200,000.
o'UiW.ofPans
o'\.U
a'\:i
,;T>M^^3^
5 Hues.
the core of which consists of crystalline rocks, turns abruptly to the north, and
enters the pla.'n through the gorge of Tarascon. The Salat has excavated itself a
passage through the granite of the gorge of Ribaouto, above St. Girons. The
smaller rivers which rise on the northern slopes of the lateral chains likewise take
their courses through gorges excavated in the tertiary soil, and one amongst them,
the Arize, runs underground through the famous cavern of the Mas d'Azil (938
feet), scarcely a thousand yards in length, and passable on foot, except when the
river is in flood. On leaving this tunnel the Arize propels a few water-mills, and
lower down passes through the picturesque gorge of Sabarat.
The upper basins of the Ariege and the Salat abound in caverns. The
" galleries " of Lombrives and Niaux pierce an entire mountain to the south of
Tarascon. Equally curious is the cavern of Bedeillac, the traditional burial-place
of Roland. These caverns have proved a rich field of exploration to anthropologists
and geologists. Bones of animals now extinct, as well as traces of prehistoric
THE PYRENEES.
81
man, have been discovered in them. Until recently many of these galleries were
used as places of refuge. That of Ornoluc, near Ussat, gave shelter to several
hundred Albigenses, but the soldiers of the Inquisition built a wall across its
entrance, and they all perished, as did the Greeks in the cavern of ilelidhoni.
To the zoologist these caves of the chalk mountains of the Ariege are more
especially interesting, on account of the insects without eyes which have been
discovered within them.
The Central Pi/reneen. — The gorge of Pont-du-Roi, through which runs the
Garonne, separates the Eastern or Mediterranean from the Western or Atlantic
Fig. 17. — The Maladetta.
Scale 1 : lau.OOO.
0°i4o E.of (Jr.
3 Miles.
Pyrenees. Geologically this is the centre of the entire chain, which here consists
of metamorphic rocks. The valley of Aran forms the marked feature of this central
chain of the Pyrenees. Geographically this valley is part of the basin of the
Garonne, but politically it belongs to Spain. To the west it is bounded by the
giants of the entire range. From the hills around Bagneres-de-Luchon we are able
to admire these mountains, with their forests, pastures, snow-fields, and glaciers.
The latter resemble in every respect tho9<? of the Alps, but do not descend so inv
into the valleys.
In the " amphitheatre," or Cirque d'Oo (9,850 feet), we even meet with floating
icebergs similar to those of Spitzborgen or Greenland. Formerly the glacier of Oo
was far more extensive than it is now, and its ancient moraine, 5,900 feet lower
32
FEANCE.
than the terminal face of the existing glacier, is 4,400 yards in length, on an
average 1,640 yards wide, and 790 feet in height.
The most elevated mountains of the Pyrenees rise within the Spanish frontier.
The group of the Muladetta, or " cursed mountain," thus called on account of its
desolation,' terminates in a serrated crest, the principal " needle " of which still
bears its ancient Iberian name of Nethou (11,170 feet). This peak was first
ascended in 1842, but the region to the south of it was only revealed recently
by an Englishman, Mr. Packe, who discovered there the largest lake of the
Pyrenees, that of Gregonio, and the delightful meadows of the Malibierne. Mont
Fig. 18. — Mont Pekdc.
Scale 1 : 100,000.
2 Miles.
Posets (11,048 feet), on tne west of the valley of the Esera, rivals its neighbour in
height.. It was first ascended in 1856. From its summit may be enjoyed what is
probably the grandest panorama in the Pyrenees.
Mont Perdu, the " lost mountain," the third great mountain mass of the
Pyrenees, rises likewise on Spanish soil. It was first ascended by the illustrious
Ramond in 1802, and since then its amphitheatres or cirques have become the
haunt of tourists. The limestone pyramid of Mont Perdu rises from an irregular
plateau, cut up into terraces bounded by precipices, and dotted over by curiously
shaped masses of rock. To the west the group is bounded by the famous " Breach
of Roland " (9,197 feet), said to have been cleft by the paladin's sword (Fig. 19).
THE PYBENEES.
83
Glaciers occupy the area enclosed between the rocky precipices. That between
Mont Perdu and the crest of Estaube, to the north of it, covers an area of 1 -5
square miles, and within it is enclosed a lake, frozen almost throughout the year.
The waters descending from the plateau have excavated immense cavities,
locally called oules, or " porridge pots," but more generally known as cirques.
The largest of these amphitheatres is that of Troumouse, but the most admirable,
the glory of the Pyrenees, is that of Gavamie (Fig. 20), bounded on the one
side by a perpendicular precipice 5,500 feet in height, on the other by rocky
Fi(r. 19.— Thf Breach of Rolaxd.
terraces. A magnificent waterfall, 1,384 feet in height, plunges down from the
glaciers when the snow melts, but in winter this and the numerous minor cascades
are converted into pillars of ice, which surround the amphitheatre like a colonnade
of marble.
The granitic peaks in this portion of the range are inferior in height to those
formed of limestone. That of Neouviellc (Pic d'Aubert), the most remarkable of
the former, only attains 10,144 feet, whilst the limestone masses of Pic Long
(10,479 feet), and Campbieil to the south of it, almost equal Mont Perdu in
84
FRANCE.
elevation, and are joined in the east to the Pic d'Arbizon (9,286 feet, and other
summits looking down upon the valley of the Aura, which rival the Pic du Midi
of Bigorre (9,437 feet) in beauty. This latter is separated from the main range
by a low saddle, over which runs the road of the Tourraalet, and being thus
isolated, the prospect from its summit is one of the most magnificent, extending
from the Pic du Midi of Pau (9,463 feet) to the pyramid-shaped Mont Vallier.
Fig. 20 — The AMrjiTTHEATKE of G avahnte.
N^ouvielle and the mountains in its vicinity are covered with boulders ; and
the moraines of ancient glaciers bound the " lakelets " which fill depressions in
the valleys. These glaciers have shrunk now to small proportions, but during
the glacial epoch they covered a vast extent of country. The most important
of them occupied what is now the valley of the Gave of Pau, as far down
as Lourdes. Anciently it appears to have extended beyond Tarbes, but even
if we credit it only with the dimensions given to it by MM. Martins and
THE PYRENEES.
85
Collomb, it had a length of 33 miles, and spread over 500 square miles. It
covered the site of the modern village of Gavarnie to a height of 4,430 feet,
was 2,590 feet thick in the basin of Argeles, and 1,180 feet above the site of
Lourdes. In comparison with this gigantic river of ice, the serneilhes of
Mont Perdu and the Mabore, the glaciers descending from the dark flanks of the
Vignemale (10,795 feet), the most elevated summit of the French Pyrenees, and
the patches of ice to the east of formidable Balaitous (10,421 feet), are of
little note, for the whole of the existing glaciers of the Pyrenees hardly cover
20 square miles, and in no instance do they descend beneath 7,200 feet above
the sea-level.
To the west of the Balaitous the height of the Pyrenees decreases rapidly,
and the Pic du Midi of Pau is the last of the great granitic peaks. With the
pyramid-shaped Pic d'Anie (8,213 feet) begins the country of the Basques, who
formerly believed that mountain to be inhabited by an evil spirit. Beyond Mont
Orhy (6,618 feet) we only meet with hills traversed by numerous passes, amongst
which the " Gate " of Roncevaux (3,600 feet) is the most famous. At the saddle
Fig. 21.— Sbction of the Ancient Glacier of AKOELfeg.
Scale 1 : 50,000. Accotding to MM. Uartiiu and Collomb.
f^^A Crlacters
1 Mas.
of AMudes the political boundary turns abruptly to the north, leaving to France
only low spurs and outlying hills. One of these latter is the Rhune (2,950 feet),
or "angular rock," affording a magnificent prospect over the Bay of Biscay.
Although the difference of latitude between the two extremities of the
Pyrenees does not exceed 1°, they differ strikingly in climate and aspect. Near
the Atlantic the mountains are almost wholly covered with mould, and, where
trees are not met with, the soil is at all events thickly covered with shrubs and
furze. Towards the Mediterranean, on the other hand, the rocks are barren. In
the Western Pyrenees we might fancy ourselves in Scotland, whilst the axprcs
of Roussillon and the secnnos of Catalonia resemble the arid hills of Greece. The
granitic rocks which prevail in the cast partly account for these contrasts, but
the principal cause must be looked for in the rains. In the Basque country it
rains abundantly, near the Mediterranean hardly at nil, the boundary between the
two districts being formed by Mont Carlitte, The snow-line descends rapidly
as we proceed to the westward, and in the Mediterranean Pyrenees we meet
86
FRANCE.
neither with glaciers nor with perennial snows. The snow that fulls there soon
disappears before the rays of the sun, the winds, and a hot south wind resembling
the foe/iH of Switzerland, and locally known as autan.
Fig. 22. — The Ancient Glacier of AkgelI;s.
Scale I ; 400,000. According to C. Martins, and Ed. CoUomb
.^ Miles.
The contrast between the two slopes of the mountains is even more striking
than that between their extremities. On the French slope we meet with snow,
THE PYRENEES. 87
ice, running streams, luxuriant meadows and forests, with numerous villages
scattered over the plain ; on the opposite slope the eye alights upon naked
rocks, poor pasturage, and heaps of stone serving as human habitations. To the
mountaineers the French slope is known as bach or batch — that is, " lower " or
" shady " side ; the Spanish slope as soulane, or " sunny side." On the latter the
sun is more powerful and the rainfalls are less ; but man, by destroying the forests,
has made himself an accomplice of a hostile nature. Wild beasts are more
numerous there. The chamois (isard) abounds there; wolves are plentiful, as
likewise on the Freuch slope ; and sometimes one hears of the mischief done by
a bear. In the district of Cupsir, in Roussillon, the lynx, the genet, and the
marten are still seen, but several animals, including the stag, which were common
in the Middle Ages, have di.sappeared. A few wild goats still inhabit the valleys
of Ordesa and Malibierne, in Spain, but in France the last animal of the kind
was killed in 1825.
The geographical nomenclature of the F'rench Pyrenees is Basque and Latin,
but not Celtic, and we may conclude from this that the whole of the country was
formerly inhabited by men of Euskarian race. The ancient lunguage is still spoken,
not in the less accessible portions of the Pyrenees, but in the open valleys of
the west, where we meet likewise with gipsies, carjo/s, and cascarots living in
separate communities. There are three dialects, viz. those of Labourd, of Lower
Navarre, and of Soule. The Basque does not appear to have lost ground since
the beginning of the Middle Ages ; but what the uncouth dialect of Beam failed
to accomplish, French will no doubt succeed in, and no sooner will the Basques
have learnt to speak two languages than they will neglect that one which proves
least serviceable to them. Up to the present it was ignorance which protected
Basque against the inroads of French, for one-half of the men and two-thirds of
the women of the country are illiterate.
Thousands of Basques migrate to the neighbouring towns of Bayonne,
Bordeaux, and Toulouse in search of employment, or seek a home in the New
World, where their number is probably greater than that of those who remain
behind in the old country. Hostility to the conscription is one of the great motives
of emigration, for the Basque, though fond of adventure, is averse to military
service, and more than half the young men called out annually fail to put in an
appearance.
The Pyrenees to the east of the Pic d'Anie are inhabited by Frenchmen
and Spaniards. The crest of the mountains does not, however, constitute the
ethnological boundary, for in numerous instances the Spaniards have encroached
upon the northern slope. Various circumstances account for this. The luxuriant
pastures on the northern slopes naturally attracted the Spanish herdsmen inhabit-
ing a sterile plateau, whilst the French agriculturists preferred remaining down in
the plains. The political boundary, for the most part, conforms to ihese ethno-
logical eccentricities, and the valleys of the Bidassoa, Carlos, and Aran have
been assigned tf> Spain, though situated upon the northern slope. Nevertheless
the Pyrenees constitute one of the most pei-fect political boundaries in the world.
88
FRANCE.
Between the two railways which skirt the extremities of the chain, the one
connecting Bayonne with Madrid, the other Perpignan with Barcelona, the moun-
tains, for a space of 280 miles, are crossed only by two roads practicable for
carriages. One of these runs over the Col de la Perche, to the east of Mont
Carlitte ; the other through the Somport (" summit gate "), to the west of the
Pic du Midi of Pau. All other passes are practicable only during a part of the
year, and that for mules alone.
The distribution of centres of population in the region of the Pyrenees is
singularly regular. In the upper valleys, from the Alberes to. the Rhune, we
only meet with small villages, military stations, or wo.tering-places like Bagneres-
de-Luchon. Along a line connecting the outlets of these valleys have been
Fig. 23. — The BAsauES on the Fbench Slope of the Pyrenees.
Acooroing to Brooa.
built the secondary towns of these regions, such as Oloron, Tjourdes, Bagneres-
de-Bigorre, Montrejeau, St. Girons, Tarascon, Prades, and Ceret, where the
mountaineers procure their necessaries. Another twelve miles firther to the
north, and along a line running parallel with the former and with the crest of
the Pyrenees, we reach the more considerable towns, such as Bayonne, Pau,
Tarbes, St. Gaudens, Foix, and Perpignan, all of them situated either in the
plain or on low spurs readilj^ accessible. No mining industry has caused towns
to spring up in the very centre of the mountains, for mineral waters, forests,
and pastures constitute the sole wealth of the Pyrenees. Breeding of mules and
horses is carried on successfully in the Cerdagne and elsewhere, and the cattle of
some of the eastern valleys enjoy a certain reputation, but as a rule the
resources of the country are allowed to lie neglected, and an acre of meadow
THE LANDES. 89
land in the Pyrenees does not yield one-tenth, nay, one-twentieth, of what it is
made to yield in the Swiss Alps.
The low hills and plains to the north of the Pyrenees are covered with debris
and boulders transported thither by the ancient glaciers. These boulders diminish
in size in proportion as we travel away from the mountains. At Pamiers, Tarbes,
and Pau they are still as large as a child's head, but farther north we only meet
with small pebbles and gravel, and finally enter a region covered with clay and
sand, which heavy rains convert into mud. The quagmires of Lauraguais,
between the Hers and the Aude, and of Armagnac, between the Garonne and the
Upper Adour, have hardly their equal in France.
The Landes.
The vast plain of the Landes stretches westward of these deposits of glacial drift.
Bounded by the ocean, the Adour, the cultivated heights of Lot-et-Garonne, and
the vineyards of Bordeaux, this plain covers an area of 5,400 square miles. It
is evidently an ancient sea-bottom covered with sands of pliocene age, sometimes
to a depth of 2(J0 feet. At a short distance beneath the surface we meet with a
layer of compacted sand, formed by infiltration, and sometimes as hard as iron,
which is occasionally associated with it. This alios, as it is called, prevents the
growth of trees, and being impermeable, after rains the whole of the plain would
be converted into a swamp if rraxfcn, or drains, had not been dug to carry ofi" the
water. There are several " sinks " {enfoimoirs), the most remarkable being
that of Hucaou, on the water- shed between the Ley re and the Garonne.
Formeily, before the Landes had been drained, the Landescots, or Lanusquets,
could only traverse these sblitudcs on stilts, instruments supposed to have been
introduced from England. Mounted on his stilts, the shepherd was able to cross
swamps with impunity, and to look after his flock, a long wand serving him simul-
taneously as a balancing-rod, a weapon, and an organ of prehension. This mode
of locomotion is confined now to the more remote districts.
In the beginning of this century the value of land in this region was ridicu-
lously small, and for a few francs a shepherd might purchase all around him as far
as his voice could be beard. At the present time, however, the Landes have kept
their original aspect only in a few places. Shrubs, ferns, and golden-flowered
broom are rapidly being replaced by fields and forests of Bordeaux pines. These
trees are admirably adapted to the Landes, and have been cultivated there from the
most ancient times, trunks of them having been found beneath thick layers of turf.
In Maransin — that is, the southern portion of the Landes — the cork-oak is the
favourite tree, and near Bordeaux we meet with woods equal to any park of
Western Europe as to variety of foliage. These forests gradually prepare the soil
for agriculture, but the shepherds, wliose pastures they encroach upon, hold them
in aversion.
The dunes skirting the shore of the Atlantic formerly threatened to overwhelm
40
FRANCE.
the whole of this region, for towards the close of last century they advanced
to the east at a rate of 60 or 80 feet a year. This danger was created by man
himself, who destroyed the forests which had spontaneously taken root upon
theae hills of sand. The prevailing westerly winds then again drove the sand
inland, and it encroached upon Landes and swamps, and even overwhelmed entire
villages. The village of Lege twice retired before this invasion of sand, viz. 4,300
yards in 1480, and 3,300 yards in 16(i0. Mimizan retreated likewise, and when
Fis- 24. — ViKW IK THK Lanties.
measures were at length taken to stop the invasion of the dunes, these latter had
again approached within a few yards of its houses.
The first experiment to stop the advance of the dunes was made in the
beginning of the eighteenth century. It succeeded, but it was only after M. Bre-
montier had overcome the resistance of the inhabitants, whom he desired to enrich,
that any serious progress was made. Seven hundred and twentj^ acres were
planted between 1787 and 1793, and since then the whole of the region of the
dunes, extending from the Gironde to the Adour, and covering 222,400 acres, has
been converted into a pine forest. These plantations have exercised a happy
THE LANDES.
41
influence upon the climate, if it were only by facilitating regulation of the sheets
of water in the rear of the dunes. Swamp fevers (tnidoquines), which formerly
Fig. 26. — The Dt nes ano Landks in the Pays de Bokn.
Scale 1 : 400,000.
i* I 30-W of Tna
&'Milea.
decimated the popiihttion, hiivo disappeared, and the generul health has improved
in consequence of the increased wealth of the country.
The ponds or lagoons which extend in rear of the dunes must be looked upon
39
42
FRANCE.
as ancient bays of the sea, from whict they became separated by a bar of sand.
The salt, water which they originally contained escaped through drains, and they
became filled with fresh water. The largest of these lakes, that of Cazau, covers
15,000 acres, and its surface lies at an elevation of between 62 and 66 feet above
the sea-level, according to the season. By means of a canal running parallel
with the coast the level of this as well as of the other lakes might be lowered, and
a safe water-way obtained connecting the Garonne with the Adour.
The basin of Arcachon, about half-way between the Adour and the Gironde, is
the only lagoon which still communicates freely with the ocean, but the time is not
far distant when it too will be disconnected by a bar of sand. This ever-shifting
Fig. 26.— The Basin of Akcachon.
Scale I : 325,000.
W oTgt
bs=a Dtiilk, li> iS fttt
DeftVt to i2 i'ui-
l^f-*-w'> Sand X noi^ whujv vrwcv^r
Dqdh. opfp Ji t'ect
(hjstcr UctU
• 5 Miles.
bar, as well as the violent tides, is the great obstacle to the conversion of this
bay into a harbour of refuge, so much needed on the perilous coast of the Bay of
Biscay.
The rivers draining the littoral lakes of the Landes are turned to the south on
entering the sea, for the coast current runs in that direction, and throws up a
tongue of sand running parallel with the coast from north to south. The course
of the river being thus virtually increased to the extent of several miles, its
current grows sluggish, it performs its work of drainage less efficiently, the level
of the lakes grows higher, and they encroach upon their banks. The efforts of
engineers to remove the obstruction to the unimpeded discharge of the rivers have
THE LANDES.
48
not generally proved successful. The drainage of lakes and swamps has been
attempted, though not on the same scale as in the Netherhinds. The most
important instance is that of the 'Lake of Orx, near Bayonne, which was emptied
in 1864.
Man and nature thus combine to modify the physical aspect of the coast of the
Landes, but the submerged portion of the coast has been subjected to changes on a
much vaster scale. A sand-bank marked on charts of the last century as being
situated 15 miles to the west of the basin of Arcachon has completely disappeared.
Floating ashes and seaquakes notice<l by mariners point to the Buy of Biscay as a
seat of submarine eruptions. Thus much is certain, that the sea has been
encroaching extensively upon the land, and if we extend the slope of the Landes,
as shown in Fig. 27, it will be found that the ancient coast-line must have lain
12 miles farther to the west than the existing one.
In the time of Bremontier the sea gnawed away nearly 7 feet of the beach of
Fig. 27. — The Slope of the Landes.
The fignres express the height or depth in metres (10 m. = 32'8 feet).
Hourtin annually, and elsewhere its invasion was even more considerable, though
there were not wanting localities where the land actually gained upon the sea.
On first looking at the dunes facing the sea, it might be imagined that it is the
land which is advancing. The waves and the winds are supposed to throw
annually nearly 8,000,000 cubic yards of sand upon the beach of the Landes ;
but this sand is derived neither from the hills to the south of the Lay of Biscay,
nor from the coast of Saintonge, to the north. It is furnished by the Landes
themselves, and by the submarine plateau upon which they rise, and in its miuera-
logicul composition is identical with the pliocene formation occupying the interior
of the country.
Further proofs pointing to an encroachment of the sea are furnished by the
remains of the ancient vegetation of the country and the traces of man which
have been discovered on the narrow ledge bounding the enstern foot of the dunes.
Nowhere are these (races more conspicuous than on the beaches of La Gra\e
and Matoc, to the south of the basin of Arcachon, for we meet there with layers
of alinit, with turf-pits, and the trunks of trees still bearing the marks of axes,
with bricks and broken pottery.
44
FRANCE.
But not only is the coast being gnawed by the sea, it is also slowly subsirling,
for traces of human residence have been discovered below high-water mark. The
coast to the north of the
Fig. 28.— The Ancient Coast of the Landes. Gironde participates in this
Scale : 1,500,000. movement of subsidence,
and not only sandy beaches
have disappeared there, but
also rocks. One of the best
examples of this kind is
furnished by the rock upon
which stands the line light-
house of Cordouan, which
illuminates the entrance to
the Gironde. When Louis
de Foix erected that build-
ing at the close of the six-
teenth century, the rock
upon which it now stands
was an island sufficiently
large to admit of dwellings
for the workmen employed.
It is now completely covered
at high water, and the dis-
tance between it and the
peninsula of La Grave has
increased from 3-1 miles in
1630 to 4-3 miles. Nu-
merous villages named in
old chronicles have been
swallowed up by the .sea or
overwhelmed by the dunes
marching before it. Soulac
was an important town on
the Gironde, below Bor-
deaux, whilst the English
held the country, but the
Gothic church and the few
Walls which alone remain of
it now stand upon the shore
of the ocean, the dunes hav-
ing passed right over them
(see Fig. 35). The Gironde
itself would probably by this time have changed its bed h;id not the engineers
prevented it by the construction oi costly embankraente. Nowhere else on the
— Anctfnl^ Couat.
aoMiTes.
The figures express the hmght above the sea in metres
(10 m. = 32-8 foot).
THE ADOUE. 46
coast of France does man struggle so arduously against the assaults of the
ocean, and sometimes the issue is doubtful. Between 1818 and 1846 the Pointe
de Grave, at the mouth of the Gironde, receded 236 feet towards the south-east,
but the coast now is efficiently protected by embankments.
The Adour.
The geological history of the Lower Adour is connected with that of the Landes,
but the two Guves, with their principal tributaries and head-streams, belong to the
region of the Pyrenees.
The Adour rises between the Pic d'Arbizon and the Pic du Midi of Bigorre,
about 12 miles to the north of the crest of the Pyrenees. Though fed by abundant
rains and melting snow, the drought of summer would cause it to shrink into
a rivulet insufficient even for purposes of irrigation if it were not for the Blue
Lake {Lac Bleu), a natural reservoir, the outflow from which is regulated by
means of a submarine tunnel, and from which 71 cubic feet of water are dis-
charged every second, a quantity sufficient for irrigating the valley and
supplying the manufactories of Bagneres and Tarbes. This is a work of
our conterajMraneous engineers, but the canal of irrigation, which leaves the
river where it issues from the mountains to rejoin it 25 miles lower down,
dates back to the time of Alaric, the Visigoth. The island lying between this
canal and the river forms one huge garden, in which maize grows to a height of
15 feet.
On approaching the region of the Landes the river sweeps round to the west,
skirting the hills of Beam, the cultivated slopes of which contrast strikingly with
the desola'e plain on its right bank. At Dax, instead of flowing directly to the
sea, the Adourturns towards the mountains, and, as far as its confluence with the
Gave, winds between hills.
The volume of the Gave is superior to that of the Upper Adour, but its current
being rapid and its slope steep, the tide only a.scends for a short distance, and is
of very little service for purposes of navigation. The name Adour is therefore with
justice applied to the lower part of the river.
The Gave of Pau, in its upper valley, alternately forms cascades, flows tranquilly
along the bottom of deep ravines, or spreads out over emerald meadows contrasting
strikingly with rugged defiles. At Lourdes it leaves the mountains, but, instead of
flowing north over the plain, it abruptly turns to the west, and pierces the hills of
B«?arn, all covered with erratic blocks carried thither by the ancient glaciers
from the high mountains in the south. Below the graceful bridge of B^tharram it
winds across a plain, but at Pau it again flows amongst hills, from which it finally
emerges onlj' 12 miles above its confluence with the Gave of Ossau. Throughout
the whole of its course it retains the character of a torrent, and is useless for
purjwses of navigation.
The d<5bris piled up by glacial action at the mouths of the Pyrenean valleys
have forced the Gavcs repeatedly to change their course. The Gave of Pau
46
FRANCE.
originally flowed in the direction of Tarbes ; it then passed by way of Pontacq, and
this outlet having been blocked up by the debris deposited there, the river opened
itself a new passage through the defile of St. Pe. The bed of the Gave of
Ossau has undergone similar changes. At first it joined that of Pau near the
town of Nay ; subsequently it flowed north through the valley of Neez, and oven
now a portion of its waters finds its way to that valley through an underground
channel 5 miles in length.
Fig. 29.— Successive Changes or the Bed of the Gave op Pau.
Scde 1 : 320,000.
.i_!k2^'W*j»-«^_J!ii
0";939"K.ofCr
5 Miles.
The estuary of the Adour, below Bayonne, has undergone similar changes.
In the fourteenth century its mouth was 12 miles farther north, where the
Boudigau now enters the sea, and the geological boundary between the regions of
the Pyrenees and the Lindes must still be sought for at that spot. There are no
cliff's to the north of the Adour, but the nummulitic limestones of Biarritz extend
north, beneath the waves of the ocean, as far as a spot lying off" the " Fosse " of
THE ADOUB.
47
Capbreton, anciently an important seaport, which gave its name to the island of
Cape Breton, in North America.
The first change in the course of the river took place towards the close of the
fourteenth century, when a violent storm threw up a formidable bar, the river
Fig. 30. — Thb Mouth of the Adouii.
Scale 1 : 250,000.
FoSNf (|^.
ff/f/rr/'/y
1 Silks.
flowing along tho rear of (he dunes as far as the hamlet of Vieux-IJoucau, or " old
mouth," 22 miles to the north of Bayonne. The present channel of the river
was excavated by human hands, aided by a great flood which occurred in 1571,
and swept away the last remaining obstucles.
48
FItANOE.
The ever-shifting bar at the mouth of the Adour is justly dreaded by mariners,
and, in spite of the jetties which have been constructed, the narrow entrance. to the
river is occasionally obstructed.
The Garonne.
The Garonne rises on Spanish soil, on the southern slope of the Pyrenees. Its
head-stream, fed by the snow and ice of Pic Nethou, is swallowed up by a sink
known as Trou du Taureau ("bull's hole"), and after a subterranean course of
2^ miles, reuppeais again as a gushing spring at the Goueil de Joueou
("God's eye"). At the hill of Castelleon this head-stream of the Garonne is joined
by a second river of that name, which traverses the Spanish valley of Aran, and
when it enters French territory, at the marble defile of St. Beat, it is already a
formidable river.
The glacier-fed Pique of Luchon is the first considerable river which joins the
Fig. 31. — The Subtbrkanean Couese of the Gakonne.
I: I. 10000 0
a 3 i 5lfi]oiiieirc>
Garonne on the soil of France. Lower down it receives the Neste, which flows
through the delightful valley of Aure, and its direct northern course being stopped
by the masses of debris deposited by ancient glacial action, it turns abruptly to the
east, and flows in a huge curve around that wonderful accumulation of shino-le and
gravel traversed by the radiating courses of the Gers, the Bayse, and numerous
other rivers, all having their sources close to each other, as shown in Fig. ^2.
These rivers are gradually washing away the sediment deposited by glaciers, and
nowhere else are we better able to study the influence which the earth's rotation
exercises upun the formation of valleys. Almost without exception the western
slopes of the valleys are gentle, whilst the rivers gnaw away the foot of the hills
on the east, and a traveller who crosses over from one valley to the other in a
westerly direction ascends by a gentle slope, but descends by a steep one.
Very different from these divergent rivers are the eastern or exterior tributaries
of the Garonne, for their sources are far apart, they flow generally parallel with
the equator, and, draining vaster areas, are more voluminous. One" of them, the
Salat, is thus named on account of the brine springs near its banks. Another, the
THE GARONNE,
49
Ariege, is not named thus because it carries gold {Aurigera), for its name is
synonymous with Arega, Aregia, Ereya, and Arize, all of which simply mean
river.
Though draining a basin inferior to that of the Loire, the Garonne neverthe-
less is a more voluminous river, thanks to the greater rainfall, the geological
nature of the soil, and the snows of the Pyrenees, which feed many of its tributaries
during summer. There are no torrent beds, as on the southern slope of the
Cerennes, and the hills of Auvergne and the Pyrenees are amongst the best
watered of all France. Floods, unfortunately, occur frequently, generally in May
or June, when the snow melts and rain fulls abundantly.
At an epoch anterior to history the flow of the river was regulated by lakes,
Fig. 32. — Radiating Rivkh Courseb of Gers.
Scale 1 : 1,875,000.
3-
r
r W.ofPar,.
•^'^^
gjyjj^-jfly)Q^^y<i^jge^^j»;
4V
1
JtV
43:
^K
'A'
0*W A.olGr
o-so-
1-20E"f
Gr
one of the most important of which occupied the fertile plain of Riviere. But
these lakes have been silted up and drained, and the floods occur now very
suddenly. One of the most disastrous happened in 1875, when the river rose
40 feet above its ordinary summer level, sweeping away bridges, destroying nearly
7,000 houses, and doing damage to the extent of £3,400,000. These floods might
perhaps be prevented if forests were planted npon the hills, but to this the pastoral
inhabitants of the Pyrenees have a deep-rooted objection.
The waters of the Garonne are not employed for purposes of irrigation, as they
might be, and there exist no canals comparable with that of Alaric, in the valley
of the Adour. M. Duponchel, however, has conceived the grand project of construct-
50
FBANCB.
ing a system of canals or drains, by means of which the hills of Gers might be
levelled, and a portion of the fertile soil of which they consist spread over the
barren Landes of Gascony.*
A navigable canal, communicating with the Canal du Midi, follows the course
of the Garonne from Toulouse downwards as far as the head of the tide, whence
Fig. 33. — Valleys of Gehb.
Scale 1 : 1,150,000.
the river is navigable throughout the year. Below Bordeaux, its great commercial
port, the Garonne rapidly increases in width, and the triangular peninsula which
lies between it and its twin river, the Dordogne, is known as Entre-Deux-Mers,
with reference to the sealike expanse of these great tidal rivers. Sea-going vessels
ascend the Dordogne as far as Libourne, at the mouth of the Isle. The bore
Fig. 34. — The Plain of RivikiiE.
Scale 1 : 320,000.
1?30' W. IP.
0° 50 I f Gr
which rushes up that river is said to have become more intense since the Garonne
has been confined within narrower limits.
The united waters of the Garonne and the Dordogne form a vast estuary,
known as Gironde, varying in width between two and six miles, and dotted
• " Creation d'un sol fertile a la surface des landes de Gascogne." Montpellier, 1864.
THE GARONNE.
61
over with numerous islands. There are many mud-banks, which interfere with
navigation, but the depth of the channel is nevertheless very considerable, and at
the mouth of the river, between Royan and the Pointe de Grave, it is no less than
Fig. 3d. — The Estuary of the Girokdi.
Scale 1 : 640,000.
3"W.ofRu^«
0°39 5»W of Ci
10 Milea.
105 feet. This estuary is in reality an arm of the sea, and at Meehers, 6 miles
above its mouth, there are salt ponds and oyster beds. Cetncea and sea-fish ascend
the river with each tide, and porpoises gambol around the vessels as in the open
sea. Among these visitors from the Atlantic the maigre {Sciwna aqtiila), a singing
62
FRANCE.
fish, is one of the most curious, and the crews of many a vessel have been frightened
by the sound it emits.
The banks of the Gironde exhibit many traces of geological action still going
on. The hills on the right bank terminate in cliffs, the foot of which is continually
Fig. 36. — The "Passes" of the Gironde.
Scale 1 : 350,000.
■^?-; MtM
3° I 20' W of Paris
-^^
^j""-*>iV'r
Dep h 0- 16 feet.
16-32 feet.
over 32 feet.
, 5 MUes.
being gnawed by the waves, and several villages have disappeared there, including
Gerioset, which occupied the summit of a hill to the east of Royan, and Talmont,
which stood at the extreme point of a peninsula.
Swampy plains of recent origin, such as the " polders " of Little Flanders,
Fig. 37.— Section of the Passes of the Gikonde.
■— 'ioi:: ~
CO.
drained in the seventeenth century, and the old salt marshes of the Verdun, extend
far into the peninsula of Medoc. The culminating point of the whole of this
region, the hill of Jau or Jupiter, scarcely rises to a heij-ht of 40 feet, and a
couple of centuries ago was an island. Ancient river beds can still be traced, and
PYRENEES ORIENTALES. S8
what 18 now the Pointe de Grave was formerly an island near the northern bank
of the river.
The submarine relief is likewise undergoing continual changes, which endanger
navigation. The channel, or "pass," of the Mastelier, which was the principal
one about the middle of the eighteenth century, is now occupied by a formidable
sand-bank known as La Mauvaise. The contours of the banks and the direction
of the currents are for ever changing, and in the course of less than a century the
bank of La Mauvaise has shifted 5 miles to the west, whilst that of La Cuivre
moves in an opposite direction. Still, thanks to lighthouses, buoys, and beacons,
vessels can at all times enter the Gironde with safety, and even at low water the
depth of the northern pass is nowhere less than 40 feet. At each tide no less
than 265,000 tons of water penetrate into the estuary of the Gironde, a quantity
in comparison with which the discharge of the Garonne and Dordogne combined is
almost inappreciable, even during floods.
TOPOORAPHY.
PvRKNKES Oriextales. — This department is almost a portion of Catalonia as far
as its climate, its productions, and the language of its inhabitants are concerned, but
has formed part of France since the middle of the seventeenth century. It includes
the valleys of the Tech, the Reart, the Tet, and the Agly, all of which debouch upon
the plain of Roussillon. Each of these valleys is well watered, but, upon the
whole, naked rocks form the predominant feature of the department, which is
therefore able only to support a small population.
The valley of the Tech orVallespir — that is, " austere valley " — is the southern-
most of continental France. Its scenery is delightful, and the customs of its
Catalan inhabitants full of interest. At its head are the pastures of Costabona,
and on descending it we pass the sulphur springs of Preste, the old town of
Prats-de-Mollo (1,3:^0 inhabitants), formerly famous for its cloths; Arks (1,871
inhabitants), the commerciul centre of the valley, where rude cutlery is manu-
factured ; Ciret (3,063 inhabitants) ; and the hot sulphur springs of Amelie-les-
Bains.
Across the naked range of the Alberes, defended by the fort of Bellegarde, the
great Spanish high-road leads through the Pertus. This road is far easier than the
one leading along the coast of the Mediterranean, through CoUioure (3,446 inhabit-
ants), frequented by fishermen, and Port-Vcndres (1,910 inhabitants), which boasts
of an excellent harbour, much frequented by vessels in distress. Some wine is
exported from here, including the sort known as " rancio," which only attains
maturity after having been kept for ten years, and possesses tonic properties almost
equal to those of quinine.
The district of Aspres, which extends east of the Canigou in the direction of
the Mediterranean, is sterile, as its nnme implies, but excellent wine grows upon
its hills, and the lowlands, irrigated by the Reart, are of wonderful fertility. Ebw.
(2,463 iuhabitants), the ancient Illiberri, subsequently named Helena in honour of
64
FEXNCB.
the mother of Constantine, is the only town of importance there ; its cathedral
dates back to the eleventh century.
The most important valley of the Eastern Pyrenees is that of the Tet ; the
Col de la Perche at its head, and the roads to Perpignan, are defended by the
fortress of Monflouk, constructed by Vauban. Lying at an elevation of 5,250 feet
above the sea, the climate of this place is most rigorous. Hot mineral springs
abound in this portion of the Pyrenees, but only those of Vernei, on the northern
slope of Mont Canigou, enjoy a world-wide reputation. Iron ores, suited to the
Fig. 38. — Poht-Vendres.
Scale 1 : 16,000.
manufacture of steel, likewise abound. There are iron work.s at Ria, between
the small fortified town of Villeneuve de Conflant and Prades, but most of the
ore is exported to Germany. Prades (3,725 inhabitants), Viiiga (2,093 inhabitants).
Ilk (3,222 inhabitants), and all the villages of the Riveral, to the very gates of
Perpignan, are indebted to the fertilising water.s of the Tet for tbeir prosperity.
Ferpignan (24,379 inhabitants) is a fortress of the highest importance, for it
commands all the passes over the Pyrenees from the sea to the Pass of La Perche.
AEIEGE. 6fi
Traces of Moorish architecture may be discovered in its huge citadel, in the
Castillet, or little castle, and the " Loge," or old exchange of the Majorcans, but it
is not in other respects a fine city. Its ancient industries have declined since
Charles V. converted the town into a fortress, and its university, founded in the
fourteenth century, only exists in name. The climate, however, is delightful,
sub-tropical plants grow most vigorously, and the whole country might easily be
converted into a huge garden of acclimatization.
Wine is the great source of wealth of the country. Though ordinary roussillon
is used merely for blending the lighter wines of Central Franco, first-rate wines
are produced at Rivesdltes (6,077 inhabitants), on the Agly; at Estagel (2,678
inhabitants), higher up on the same river, and the birthplace of Arago ; and at
Salses, the Salsulae of the Romans. Most of these wines are exported through
Barcares, a port near the town of St. Laurent de la Salanque (3,990 inhabitants).
The country likewise produces olives. The tract along the coast, known as
" Salobres," is impregnated with salt, and hardly produces anything, but fair
harvests of cereals are gathered in the tract known as " Salanque," which bounds
it inland, the vine and olive being restricted to the hilly districts.
Akiege.* — This department includes the old district of Couserans, the basin of
Salat, and the county of Foix, comprising the basin of the Ariege. Nearly the
whole of it is mountainous, and the main range of the Pyrenees forms the boundary
towards Spain for a distance of 136 miles. The only plain is that of Paumiers.
The population is thin and exceedingly ignorant.
The small canton of Querigut or Donnezan, on the Upper Aude, which is only
accessible to the rest of the department by the difficult Pass of Paillers, sheltered
the fugitive Protestants after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, but is now
visited only on account of its sulphur springs at Carcnnieres. The upper valley of
the Ariege likewise attracts strangers on account of its hot springs, amongst which
those of Ax (Aquae) are the most famous. Hematite iron ores, lead, copper, and
manganese abound at Vic de 80s, in a side valley of the Ariege, but owing to the
difiiculties of access, the want of fuel, and the restrictions imposed by mediaeval
guilds, the metallurgical industry is not very important, t At Tarascoii there are
gypsum quarries, and travelling still 10 miles lower down the valley, we arrive at
Foix (5,127 inhabitants), with its famous old castle, the capital of the department.
Billow that town the Ariege passes through a series of gorges, and then enters
upon a vast alluvial plain, where stands Pamicrs (7,837 inhabitants), the most im-
portant town of the department. Lower down still is Saverdun (2,596 inhabitants).
The valley of the Hers joins that of the Ariege beyond the limits of the
department. It is one of the most charming of the Pyrenees, the pine woods of
Belesta, the intermittent spring of Fontestorbes, and the ruined castle of Montsegur
constituting some of its principal attractions, whilst Lavelanet (2,792 inhabitants)
and Mirepoix (3,102 inhabitants) are noted for their manufacture of cloth. On
• Bergig, "Description du dip. do I'Ariege;" Bordes-Pagfes, " Notice sur le Couserans ;" Astruc,
"M^m. pour I'hist. naturelle du Languedoc."
t lu 1873, C,040 tuns of cast iron, 5,046 tons of wrought iron, and 8S9 tons of steel were produced.
56
FRANCE.
the Arize, whicb flows direct to the Garonne, stands the busy little place of
Mas d'Azil {1,278 inhabitants), near which the river flows through a subterranean
channel.
The western portion of the department, ancient Couserans, is drained by the
Salat and its tributaries. The upper valleys of this region formirly constituted
as many self-governing communities, and the inhabitants, until quite recently,
Fig. 39. — BAONiRE8-l)E-LuCHOV.
Scale 1 : 215,000.
0 'I'O 21 E of Of
, 2 Miles.
retained their ancient dress and customs. In winter they leave their inhospitable
mountain homes in search of work in the more favoured plains ; and when bears
were still numerous in the Pyrenees, many of them travelled as bear-leaders.
Hot springs abound in these valleys, the most renowned being those of Aulus,
accidentally rediscovered in l8'2'-i, and deservedly popular on account of the
delights of the surrounding scenery. St. Girons (3,993 inhabitants), the capital
HAUTE-GARONNE.
67
of the district, occupies a site at the confluence of the Lez with the Salat. It
carries on a lucrative commerce with Spain, the road leading through the Port de
Salau, and boasts of various manufactures. At St. Lkicr, which was the ancient
capital, may still be seen the ruins of Roman walls and of a Gothic cathedral.
The old episcopal palace has been very appropriately converted into an asylum for
lunatics.
HAUre-GAKONKE. — This department includes portions of the ancient provinces
Fig. 40. — Thb Coxvekgent Valleyh or the Gakonne, the Ahi6oe, and the Hers.
Scale 1 : tiOO.OOO.
L
I
' 10 Milea.
of Gascony and Ijangucdnc, imd is intersected from south to north, for a distance of
1"*0 miles, by the river Garonne, which has given it a name. It extends from the
crest of the Pyrenees to the foot-hills of the central plateau of France, and thus
exhibits a great variety in its scenery, climate, and natural productions.
In the verv heart of the mountains lie^ the most famous hot spring of the
Pyrenees, that of lifi/jneres-de Luc/ion (3,982 inhabitants), the surrounding scenery
40
58
FEANCB.
of which— its glaciers, woods, and mountain gorges— forms its great attraction to all
admirers of nature. St. Gamlem (4,087 inhabitants) occupies a terrace overlook-
ing the ancient Lake of Riviere (see Fig. 34). Its neighbourhood abounds in
remains of prehis,toric man, as well as in monuments of the Gallo-Roman age.
Valentin, a busy suburb of St. Gaudens, on the Garonne, still bears the name of
the Roman emperor who founded it, and higher up on the same river may be seen
the ruins of the Roman city of Lugdunum Convenarum.
Below the gorge of St. Martory, the Salat, thus called after the brine springs
of Salies, joins the Garonne, which thence Hows through a fertile plain extending
to the neighbourhood of Toulouse. Its numerous towns and villages, amongst
Fig. 41. — Toulouse.
Scale 1 : 60,000.
0°! 55 "W of Paris
1 Mile.
which are Martres (the ancient Calagorris), Cazeren ("2,422 inhabitants), Rieur
(1,452 inhabitants), Cnrhonne (1,658 inhabitants), Auterive (1,973 inhabitants),
and Ciiiterjahc//e (819 inhabitants), present an appearance of wealth, for it is now
many years since the Garonne inundated its banks. Muret (2,509 inhabitants),
in the very centre of this plain, has become famous on account of the defeat of the
Albigenses and Aragonese in 1213, which definitively placed Toulouse in the
hands of the French.-
Villefranche (2,134 inhabitants), and the other towns of Lauraguais, to the
south-east of Toulouse, as well as Grenade (2,674 inhabitjnts). Fronton (1,402
to
o
&
o
HAUTE-GAEONNE.
69
inhabitants), and other places in the north, are mainly dependent upon agricul-
ture ; whUst VilU'tnur (2, -'367 inhabitants), on the Tarn, and Revel (3,782 inha-
bitants), have some manufactures.
Toulouae (120,208 inhabitants), the entrepot of the fertile plain of the
Garonne, is one of those cities which cannot be dispensed with. Its favourable
position for war and commerce at all times insured its prosperity, and when the
Romans captured it they discovered in a sacred pond treasure valued at 15,000
talents, or £3,000,000. This
Fig. 42. — The Canal of the Nestb.
Scale I : 320,000.
IV of Fans
prosperity is perhaps greater now
than ever it was before; but
though Toulouse has been the
capital of the Visigoths for nearly
a century (418 — 507), it carries
on no direct commercial transac-
tions with the Iberian peninsula,
but is the great intermediary be-
tween the Mediterranean and the
Atlantic. Including the suburbs,
the red-brick buildings of the
town cover an area of over 3
square miles. The town-hall or
Capitol, with its busts of illus-
trious Languedocians, occupies
the centre of the ancient city,
which was superior to the towns
of Northern France in wealth and
intelligence, until the henchmen
of the Inquisition caused its
streets to flow with blood, and in-
stilled a spirit of ferocious ortho-
doxy into the minds of its inha-
bitants, who burnt Vanini at the
stake in 1619, and in 1762 broke
the limbs of Galas, the Protestant,
upon the wheel. The church of
St. Servan, the cathedral of St.
Ktienne, and the ancient monas-
tery of St. Augustine, now converted into a museum, are amongst the most
interesting buildings of the town. The library, far inferior to what one might
expect to find in an ancient university city, occupies another old monastery.
Commerce and industry flourish. There are manufactures of paper, starch,
tobacco, and textile fabrics, as well as foundries and saw-mills. The environs are
almost bare of trees, and there exists no park deserving the name.
Hautes-Pvkknees. — This department includes the whole of ancient Bigorre,
bO
FRANCE.
with portions of adjoining districts. More than half of it is filled with high
mountains. Its principal rivers are the Neste in the east, the Adour in the
centre, and the Gave in the west. The alluvial bottom-lands are of exceeding
fertility; hot springs abound in the mountains ; there are famous marble quarries
and busy manufactories ; but the population is still far from numerous.
The valley of the Aure, or Upper Neste, is one of the most renowned of the
Pyrenees, on account of its pretty scenery and grand perspeatives. Arreau, its
capital, is merely a vill-ge, and Sarracolin is only better known because it lies at
Fig. 43. — BAGSfeuES-I)E-l5lG0RHE.
Scale 1 : 2a),0U0.
rr
6 Miles.
the head of the canal of the Neste, and boasts of marble quarries. The popula-
tion, however, is more dense than might be expected, for hamlets and homesteads
lie scattered in all directions.
The valley of Campan, on the Upper Adour, is looked upon as typical of the
beauties of nature ; but the men who inhabit it are repulsive, as most of them are
subject to wens. At its mouth lies Bafjneres-de-Bigofre (7,598 inhabitants), which
has paper and saw mills, marble works, and manufactures of fancy hosiery, these
latter giving employment to more than 2,000 women. The town is likewise the
HATJTES-PYEENfiES.
61
seat of the Soei^t^ Ramond, which has undertaken the scientific exploration of
the Pyrenees and established an observatory on the Pic du Midi of Bigorre.
Tarbes (11,080 inhabitants), the capital of the department, lies quite beyond
the hills, and from the windows of its museum an unrivalled prospect over a
Fig. 44. — The Tumuli of Osbun.
Accordi -g to Bourbier and Letrone. Scale 1 : 62,000.
1 MQe.
verdant plain, bounded by blue mountains in the distance, may be enjoyed.
There are foundries, woollen-mills, and manufactories of felt, as well as a Govern-
ment factory of small arms and a cannon foundry. The surrounding country is
famous for its breed of saddle horses. Corn and wine are the leading agricultural
productions.
g2 FRANCE.
The hilly country to the east of this smiling plain of the Adour, including the
plateau of Lannemezan, consists to a great extent of heaths. The best-known
village there is Capveni, with hot mineral springs. Heaths also occur to the west
of the Adour, and one of them, near Ossun (2,400 inhabitants), is remarkable on
account of its ancient entrenchments and tumuli.
The basin of the Gave, in the west of this department, is perhaps more
frequently visited by tourists than any other portion of the Pyrenees, and
deservedly so, for it abounds in sublime scenery and natural curiosities. Its many
thermal springs form one of its greatest attractions. The sulphurous waters of
Bareges are eflBcacious in case of wounds, those of St. Sauveur are available
against nervous disorders, but the various springs of Canterets cure almost every
disease that human flesh is heir to, and attract as many as 16,000 sufi'erers in a
single year. The mouth of the valley of the Upper Gave is commanded by the
old fortress of Loiirdes (4,577 inhabitants), become famous in our days through a
miracle-working spring near which quite a town of churches and convents has
sprung up.
Basses- Pyrknees.— This department includes Beam and the old " kingdom " of
Navarre, with the districts of Soule and Labourd in the Basque country. For the
most part it is hilly rather than mountainous, though the Pyrenees to the south
of the valleys of Ossau and Aspe still pierce the region of perennial snows. The
ravined plateau to the north of the Gave of Pan consists of glacial drift. There
are mines of iron, coal, and salt, many manufactories, and a great commercial port ;
but upon the whole this is an agricultural department, the resources of which
have not hitherto been developed as they might be. The torn/as, or heaths, which
cover 783,000 acres of the Pyrenean foot-hills, are quite capable of cultivation, but
the peasants prefer to use them as pasture ground. It is only natural, under these
circumstances, that the population should decrease.
The Gave, on entering the department, flows past the church of Bethar-
ram, an old place of pilgrimage, and then irrigates the fields of numerous
villages, the centre of which is Nay (3,093 inhabitants), which boasts of numerous
manufactures. Still following the river, we reach Pan (27,553 inhabitants), the
ancient capital of Beam. It is built upon a terrace, and owing to the mildness of
its climate has become a great resort of invalids. The terrace of its ancient castle
commands a magnificent panorama of the Pyrenees. The entertainment of visitors
is the great business of Pan, but there are also some manufactures of linen.
Morlaas, the first capital of Beam, now an inconsiderable village, lies in the
Landes, to the north-east ; and, proceeding still farther in the same direction, we
reach the castle of Montaner, one of the strongest fortresses built by Gaston
Phcebus.
Orthez (4,727 inhabitants), on the Gave, below Pau, was formerly the seat of
a university, and is noted for its ancient bridge and the donjon of the old palace
of the Dukes of Foix. There are numerous tanneries and other industrial esta-
blishments, and amongst the exports of the town figure " Bayonne hams."
The mountainous portion of the department belongs to the basin of the Gave
7i
.J
©
SB
<
-11
g
o
<
BAiJSES-PYEENEES.
68
of Oloron, the capital of which is Oloron Ste. Marie (7,223 inhabitants), at the
foot of the only Pyrenean pass available for wheeled traffic, viz. that of Somport.
There are cloth and cotton factories, and smuggling is carried on extensively.
High up in the hills, at the foot of the Pic du Midi of Pau, lie the sulphur springs
o( Eaux- Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudea, and the valley of Baretous, in the south-west,
is famous for its cattle.
In descending the Gave we successively pass through Navarreux, an old
fortress, and Saureterre. At Oraas, near the latter, and at Salies (2,494 inha-
bitants), there are salt works, now carried on by Government, but they are far less
productive than formerly.
The villages in the interior of the Basque country are remarkable only on
Fig. 45. — Bayonne and the Mouth of the Adour.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
3' 50 W. of Pari,.
rSO' W.ofGr
account of their picturesque position. At Mnuleon-Lkharre, the old capital of ,
Soule, are the ruins of a castle ; Ilrmparren (1,573 inhabitants), a very ancient
village, has shoe and cloth manufactures; the fort of St. Jean-Pied-de-Port
commands the I'ass of Roncevaux and two others. Near it is a colony of cagots,
a despised race formerly, but nevertheless intelligent, and superior in physique to
tlieir neighbours. Most writers now look upon them as descendants of the
Vi.sigoth8.
Bayonne (22,307 inhabitants), though slightly inferior to Pau in population,
is by far its superior in commerce and industry. It is a fortress, but gaily painted
houses, open squares, and fine promenades give it the appearance of an open city.
Its Gothic cathedral is one of the finest edifices in the south of France. Its
64
FRANCE.
position at the bottom of the Bay of Biscaj- and on the most frequented road
between France and Spain marks it out as a great place of commerce ; but owing to
the bar which closes the mouth of the Adour, it has not attained a position
amongst the great commercial ports of France such ms might have been expected,
and the numerous Spanish and Portuguese Jews are intent rather upon bourse
speculation than upon legitimate commerce.* As to the other harbours along the
coast of Gascony, such as Guethary and St. Jean-de-Luz, they are at present
of no commercial importance whatever. And yet the mariners from this coast
frequented America long before Columbus, though not before the Normans.
Great efforts are now being made to improve the harbour of St. Jean-de-Luz
Fig. 46. — Roadstead of St. .Tean-de-Lvz.
Scale 1 : 200,000.
W-3i
ov£r id 4- pAiJuftn^,
(3,131 inhabitants), though that town can never agaia become a great place
of commerce. Indeed, such importance as these coast towns possess is" due
entirely to their having become favourite seaside resorts ; it is this which has
transformed the village of Biarritz (3,348 inhabitants) into a cosmopolitan water-
ing-place, and is preparing a similar fate for Jlendai/e.
Gers. — This department is named after a yellowish river which traverses it
from north to s mth, and occupies the greater portion of the plateau of glacial
drift piled up at the mouths of the Upper Adour and Neste, and cut up by
torrents into numerous ridges of hills (see Fig. 32). It lies outside the usual
* In 1872 Ihure were 1,320 Jews. In 1875 1,460 vessels, of an aggregate burden of 164,321 loi-s,
entered and cleared.
TAEN-ET-GAEONNE. 66
roads of traffic, but its valleys are fertile, and a fair wine grows upon its hill-
sides.
The most fertile portion of Gers lies on the south-west, and is watered by the
Adour. Immediately to the east of this valley rises the plateau of Armagnac, the
wines of which are to a great extent converted into brandy, ranking next to
Cognac. Cazaubon (760 inhabitants), Eauze (2,062 inhabitants), Montreal (690
inhabitants), and Vic-Fezennac (3,000 inhabitants), are some of the more important'
places in Lower or Western Armagnac, separated from Upper Armagnac by the
valley of the navigable Bayse or Baise, the more important towns of which are
Condom (4,933 inhabitants) and 3Iiran(le (3,230 inhabitants), the capital of Astarac.
Auch (12,145 inhabitants), the name of which recalls the ancient Ausques or
Eskuaras who founded it, lies in the valley of ihe Gers. It is a fine town, with
one of the most majestic cathedrals of France, an immense flight of stairs, leading
to the terrace upon which it is built, and a mediaeval tower dedicated to Caesar.
Higher up in the valley lies the village of Sansan, which has become known
through the palacontological explorations of M. liartet and others. The lower
valley of the Gers is well cultivated, and the fields surrounding Fkurance
(3,737 inhabitants) and Lectoure (2,963 inhabitants) are of great fertility. The
patois spoken at the latter place is said to contain Greek words, and the rivulet
formed by the fountain of Iloundelie bears the Greek appellation of Hydrone.
The towns in the extreme east of the department are in nowise remarkable,
except for the ruins of mediaeval castles and abbeys. L'Tsle-Jounlain (2,248
inhabitants) and Lomhez, both on the Save, are the principal centres of population,
and carry on some trade in cattle and geese.
Tarn-et-Garonne. — This department, one of the smallest of France, includes
the hills of Eastern Lomagne, the alluvial valleys of the Garonne, the Tarn, and the
Aveyron, and a hill region in the north and east which forms part of Quercy and
Rouergue. Some of the soil is exceedingly fertile, and there are manufacturing
establishments at Montauban and elsewhere, but the population is nevertheless on
the decrease.
Beaumont (3,608 inhabitants), the capital of Lomagne, as well as all the places
on the left bank of Garonne, is decreasing in population, and Castel-Siivrasin
(3,547 inhabitants), on the opposite bank of the river, does so likewise, but never-
theless carries on a considerable commerce in wine and the products of the fertile
plain, too freqiiently devastated by the waters of the Garonne.
Montauban (19.790 inhabitants) stands majestically upon a lofty bluff' of the
Tarn, spanned there by a fine old bridge. Its position is a favourable one for com-
merce, but its greatness as a city passed away when it ceased to be one of the four
towns of refuge granted to the Calvinists. It gloriously withstood the armies of
Louis XIII. (1620), but twelve years later it yielded to Richelieu, and its civil
liberties and industries were annihilated. Linen and muslin, earthenware and
leather, are manufactured, but a spirit of enterprise capable of striking out new
paths is altogether wanting. The town-hall contains a fine library and a collec-
tion of paintings, many of them by Ingres, a native of the place.
41
66
FRANCE.
Moissac (5,G75 inhabitants), in the alluvial plain and near the confluence of
Garonne and Tarn, is one of the great grain markets of France, and possesses a
mediaeval church and cloisters, which contrast strangely with a modern aqueduct
and an iron railway bridge. Vaknce (VAgen (2,926 inhabitants), lower down in
the valley, is wealthy and industrious. An old house is still pointed out there
in which sat the inquisitors who condemned forty-three heretics to the stake.
Fig. 47.— The Alluvial Plain of the Garonne, the Takn, and the Aveyrhh.
Scale 1 : 320,000.
lOW.
io- E of i:.-
. 5 Miles.
The plateau to the north of the Aveyron is but thinly populated, and the only
town of any importance there is Caiissade (2,438 inhabitants). The Aveyron, on
entering the department, passes through a series of picturesque gorges, bounded by
limestone cliffs, the caverns in which have yielded numerous implements of palajo-
lithic age. -S7. Antoiiin (2,520 inhabitants), the most considerable town in that
LOT-ET-GAEONNE.— LANDES. 67
part of the country, boasts of a town-hall built in the twelfth century, and of nume-
rous private dwellings dating back to the thirteenth.
LoT-ET-G.iKONXE. — This department is named after the two rivers which effect
their junction within its limits. The hills of Lomagne form a steep escarpment
towards the vale of the Garonne, and a considerable portion of the south-west
consists of Landes, but the northern half is occupied by tertiary hills of great
fertility. As a whole, the department is one of the most productive of all France ;
its race of cattle is highly esteemed, and poverty is unknown.
Agcn (17,806 inhabitants), the capital, lies on the right bank of the Garonne,
at the foot of a hill covered with gardens and villas. It is famous for its cattle
markets and prunes, the latter grown in the valley of the Lot. Three bridges and
an aqueduct cross the river.
Descending the Garonne, we first reach Port Ste. Marie (1,699 inhabitants),
near which the valley of the Buyse joins from the south, and up which leads tliu
road to Nerac (4,975 iuhabitants), an old Roman town, with the ruins of a royal
palace. Nerac has recovered from the injury inflicted through the revocation of
the Edict of Nantes, and now carries on a considerable commerce in wine and
brandy. Higher up on the Bayse is Monvraheau (681 inhabitants), the Gascon
" head-quarters of liars, babblers, and boasters." Mezin (l,9'i9 inhabitants), which
has exported wines to London since the fourteenth century, stands on the Gelise, a
tributary of the Blayse ; and lower down, near the same river, rises the castle of
Barba»te, now converted into a factory. Farther to the north-west, beyond the
forests recently planted in the Landes, lies Cantcljaloujc (2,074 inhabitants), with a
mineral spring and some manufactures.
Aguillon (1,993 inhabitants), near the junction of the Garonne and Lot, is but
a small place. Ascending the latter river, we pass Clniiac (2,388 inhabitants),
known for its "rotten" wines, which are made from overripe grapes; Cadelmoroii
(1,028 inhabitants), Ste. Livrade (1,404 inhabitants), and Villeneitre-sur-Lot (9,681
inhabitants), a busy place, with an old abbey, now used as a prison, the ruins of
the castle of Pujols, and several merliajval buildings, including a bridge. Penue
(1,272 inhabitants), /"((we/ (2,229 inhabitants), and Boiiagiiil were known in former
times for their citadels, that at the latter place having been one of the first con-
structed to resist artiller}'.
Returning to the valley of the Garonne, we pass Tonncim (5,303 inhabitants),
entirely rebuilt since the Calvinistic wars, and Marinande (6,037 inhabitants), both
of them driving a busy trade. Le M<m d'AgenaiH (1,245 inhabitants), and Meilhan
(639 inhabitants), on the left bank of the Garonne, are mere villages. Nor are the
few towns in the north of much importance, except, perhaps, Miraniont (1,416
inhabitants), with its orchards of prune-trees.
Landes. — This department does not include the whole of the Landes of Gus-
cony, though, on the other hand, it comprises, in the south and south-east, some
of the foot-hills of the Pyrenees and of Armagnac. The resources of the depart-
ment are smnll ; there arc no extensive tracts of fertile land, nor harbours along
the coast, and the population is therefore very thinly sown.
G8
FEANCE.
Bax (9,085 inhabitants), on the Adour, is the natural centre of Chalosse, the
most fertile district of the Landes. It is an old town, with remains of Roman walls
and baths. The steam arising from its famous sulphur springs is seen from afar.
Thermal springs abound throughout the region, as at Ponillon (2o0 inhabitants),
La Gamardc, Tcrcis, and Prechacq ; rock-salt abounds ; asphalt is found in the
valley of the Luy ; and the iron in the western Landes is utilised in the forges
of Castcts (937 inhabitants). Peyrehorade (1,786 inhabitants), on the Gave, at the
head of navigation, is likewise a busy place.
Cap-Breton, in former ages one of the most famous seaports of France, has
Fig. 48.— Cap-Bketon (1872).
Scale 1 : 3»,6U.
3" |50'W.of P«ri»
li Miles.
dwindled down into a poor village, but the harbour of refuge now constructing
there may bring back some of its ancient prosperity.
St. Sever (2,2"2o inhabitants) and Aire (2,906 inhabitants), both on the Adour,
are quiet country towns, though the latter is the seat of a bishop ; but Mont-de-Marsan
(8,328 inhabitants), to the north of them, the capital of the department, is a busy com-
mercial centre, from which are exported the brandies of ViUpiienrc (1,15-5 inhabitants)
and Gabarret in Armagnac, the rosin of Iloquefort in the Landes, and the wines and
manufactured goods of Chalosse, Labrit, the ancient capital of a duchy, is now
merely a village, with the ruins of a castle built by Henri IV.
GIEONDE. 69
Some of the stations along the railway which connects Bordeaux with Bayonne
are rising into importance. lehonx has iron works, Lahotiheyre (La Bouverie) is
famous on account of its cattle fairs, and Morceux promises to become a place of
commerce. The ancient towns of the littoral region of Born, however, which were
joined formerly by a Roman road, have dwindled into insignificance. Mimizan,
the most important amongst them, attracts a certain number of seaside visitors
during the season.
GiRoxuE. — The Landes occupy fully one-half of this department, as far as the
Garonne and the estuary of the Gironde, and even extend beyond that river, but
the whole of the district known as Entre-Deux-Mers, as well as the hills of the
Fronsadais and P^rigord, is an outlying portion of the plateau of Central France.
Bordeaux, so happily situated at the mouth of the Garonne, and on the great
high-road which connects Paris with Spain, is the natural centre of the department,
and would insure it a pre-eminent position, even though its agricultural pi'oduc-
tions, its early vegetables, and wines had no existence.
Bazas (2,859 inhabitants), the ancient Novem Populana, and the seat of a univer-
sity at the time of Charlemagne, is an unimportant place now, but the tumuli, the
clotes, or remains of Gallic habitations, and the castle of Roquetaillade near it,
are full of interest to the antiquarian. The arrondissement of Bazas lies completely
within the region of the Landes, but its inhabitants have made considerable
advance in agriculture, they breed a highly esteemed race of cattle, and at Villan-
draut, in the valley of the Ciron, they grow excellent wines. The names of
Preignac, Barsac, Bomme, and Sauterne are known throughout the world, and
there are certain growths, such as Chateuu-Yquem, which are appreciated by
every connoisseur.
The towns along the Garonne and the Gironde know no other trade or industry
except what is connected with wine and agriculture. Castets, at the head of the
tide, is a busy port ; Laiigon (3,903 inhabitants) and the old city of St. Macaire
(2,252 inhabitants), opposite, are still more busy. La Iteole (3,498 inhabitants),
higher up on the river, is a purious mediaeval place. Near Monsegur, to the north-
cast, is a district formerly known as that of the scoundrels (Gavacherie), because
it was repeopled, after the great plague of 1524-25, by colonists from Poitou and
Angoumois, who were at that time very much despised by the men of Gascony.
Descending the G.4ronne, we pass Cadillac (2,257 inhabitants), with an old castle
now used as a refuge for women, and C^rons, wellknow'n on account of its quarries
and white wines. Villas and gardens tell us that we are approaching Bordeaux.
Soon we find ourselves facing the Maritime Railway station and the busy suburb
of Paludate, we pass beneath the iron railway bridge, and land at the quays of the
town. Towers rise above the multitude of houses, in front we look upon a fine
stone bridge, and beyond appear the masts of innumerable vessels filling the
crescent-shaped harbour.
Few other cities can rival this capital of Aquitania. Founded by the Celtic
Biturigcs, but peopled for the most part by Iberians, the ancient Burdigala was
already a great town during the dominion of the Romans; but of the many monu
FRANCE.
mental buildiugs which existed at that time only a few ruins remain. The Middle
A<»e8 are represented by numerous churches, one of which, that of St. Michael,
has a steeple of 350 feet in height, and a crypt with mummified corpses : the Gothic
cathedral has a belfry erected by Archbishop Pey-Berland Amongst modern
public buildings the theatre and the town-hall are the most remarkable, but it
is principally the miignificent private houses in the streets radiating from the
Place des Quinconces which impart a monumental character to the city.
The quays are far from sufficient for the hundreds of vessels which crowd the
Fig. 49. — Bordeaux.
Scale 1 : 95,000.
'° |w)-WofP>r..
O-IK'W.ofer
iMUe.
river, nor can vessels having a considerable draught lie along.side them. In order
to remedy this inconvenience capacious docks are now being constructed in the
suburb of Bacatan. But even these will not always be accessible to the larger
steamers, which are frequently compelled to discharge a portion of their cargo at
Pauillac before they are able to come up to the city. But, in spite of all these
drawbacks, Bordeaux is the third port of France, and about 1 2,000 vessels of over a
million tons burden enter annually.
The exportation of wine (28,0U0,000 gallons in 1874) is the great business of
GIRONDE.
71
Bordeaux. For centuries the wines of Bordeaux were more highly appreciated
abroad than in France itself, and as early as the thirteenth century they were
Fig. 60. — Thb Wine Dibthicts of the Gikomdb.
Scale 1 : 800,000.
Wcodt
London. It is only since the middle of last century that they have
shion throughout France. The town has dockyards and other esta-
72
FRANCE.
blishments connected with shipping, sugar refineries, potteries, foundries, steam
mills, and establishments for the preservation of provisions.
Bordeaux, between 12^6 and 1451, was virtually a free city, and an English
soldier was hardly ever seen there, except in time of war. It is only since 1789
that the town can be said to form an integral portion of France. Its local tradi-
tions, however, are strong, and its citizens are by no means ambitious to imitate
Fig. 51.— The Invasion of the Phylloxera.
Scile 1 : 460,000.
I''^'.-'I Stole of Plague in 18" J
Developemenl m 187it.
Developement in 1815
5 Miles.
Paris. They support a museum, a public library, and numerous scientific institu-
tions and educational establishments.
Not only the villages near Bordeaux, such as Begles (4,161 inhabitants), Taknce
(3,578 inhabitants), Meriynac (2,030 inhabitants), Cnudemn (3,81 6 inhabitants), and
Le Bomcat (3,226 inhabitants), but also more distant places, share in the prosperity
of the great city. Arcachon (4,934 inhabitants) is one of these, for most of its
GIEONDE. 78
•viUas have been erected for the accommodation of visitors from Bordeaux. Arca-
chon and La Teste de Buck (4,596 inhabitants), near it, are moreover famous for
their oyster parks, which in 1874 yielded 84,000,000 of these delicious molluscs,
valued at £120,000. The basin of Arcachon (see Fig. 26) likewise abounds in
fish, and leeches are bred in the surrounding swamps.
Both banks of the Garonne and Gironde, below Bordeaux, must be looked upon
as dependencies of that city. Pmtillnc (2,044 inhabitants) is the advanced port of
Bordeaux. Jje Verdon, at the mouth of the river, is a roadstead, where a hundred
vessels may sometimes be seen at anchor, waiting for the tide or a favourable
wind. The narrow slip of land below Blanquefort (2,294 inhabitants), known as
Medoc, produces annually some 2,000,000 gallons of superior wine, including such
growths as Chateau-Margaux, Chateau-Laffitte, and CLateau-Latour. The dreaded
phylloxera, which has committed such ravages in other parts of the department,
has hitherto spared the vineyards of Medoc, owing, perhaps, to the sandy nature of
the soil and the prevailing westerly winds. Lesparre (2,442 inhabitants), in the
Lower Medoc, has a curious old tower ; and Old Soiilac, at the mouth of the river,
boasts of an ancient Byzantine church, now surrounded by hotels for the accom-
modation of seaside visitors.
Blaye (3,801 inhabitants) is the chief town of that portion of the depart-
ment which lies to the east of the Gironde, defended there by Forts Pat^ and
Medoc. Blaye as well as Bourg (1,494 inhabitants), on the Dordogne, has
important quarries, but its chief trade, like that of all the towns of the valley of
the Dordogne, is in wine. The most important of these towns is Libourne (12,872
inhabitants), very favourably situated at the mouth of the Isle ; others are Sle.
Foy-h-Grunde (3,916 inhabitants) and Castillon. The " Cotes," or hill wines,
which grow to the north of the Dordogne, enjoy a high reputation, those of St.
Emilion being among the most famous. The great wine districts of the Gironde
are shown on Fig. 50. They yielded, in 1875, 116,160,000 gallons of wine, valued
at £3,000,000.
CHAPTER III.
THE ALPS, THE Rh6ne, AND THE COAST OF THE MEDITERRANEAN.
General Aspects. — Mountains.*
HEN the Phoenicians first navigated the Lion Gulf and established
their factories near the mouths of the Rhone, that portion of
France which lies at the back of the mountains sloping towards
the Mediterranean was still wrapped in mystery. At a later date,
when Greek art and poetry flourished in the Hellenic settlements
on the Mediterranean, the barbarous populations in the interior still practised
human sacrifice. The Greeks sought to civilise the tribes which surrounded them,
and the youthful Euxenos married the fair daughter of a barbarian king ; but
when the Roman succeeded to the inheritance of the Greek, the work of civilisa-
tion had made but little progress. The Roman, however, was not content with
merely holding the seaboard, and Caesar, by availing himself of the almost
unbounded resources of a wealthy empire, succeeded in conquering the whole
of Gaul.
The boundaries of Mediterranean France are not as well defined as are those
of Italy and the Iberian peninsula. True it is almost entirely enclosed by moun-
tains — by the Cevennes in the east, by the Alps in the west ; but two huge gaps
in these barriers have enabled nations and armies to overcome these (obstacles. One
of them opens out between the Pyrenees and the Cevennes, and leads into the
basin of the Garonne; the other is reached by travelling up the Rhone^ and
opens a way, on the one hand, into Burgundy and the valley of the Seine, on the
other to the Lake of Geneva and the basin of the Rhine.
The valley of the Rhone is, indeed, the great historical high-road of France.
When Rome was still the mistress of the world, it was through this valley that
her legions marched to Northern Gaul. At a subsequent date, when Rome
had fallen from her high estate, a movement in a contrary direction took place,
•Marion, " Geologie de Provence" {Hevue Scientijiqu':, 2l8t of December, 1871); Whymper,
"Scrambles amongst the Alps," 1860—69; Ladoneette, " Hautes-AIpes ; " " Annuaire dii Club Alpin-
Fran^ais;" Surell, '*:6tude snr les torrents des Hautes-Alpes ; " Ch. Lory, "Alpes de la Savoie et du
Dauphine ; " A. Favre, " Recherches geologiques sur le Mont Blanc."
GENERAL ASPECTS.— MOUNTAINS.
76
and the fair regions of Languedoc and Provence fell a prey to the power-
ful military nation which bad established itself in the north of France. This
conquest was not accomplishfed without much bloodshed, but it finally gave
France her true geographical limits, with a seaboard on the Mediterranean,
and enabled her to play the part of mediator between the North and the South.
The countries watered by the Rhone and its great tributary the Saone differ
widely as regards climate, geological formation, and inhabitants. Great are the
contrasts between Burgundy and Provence, Franche-Comte and Savoy. Never-
theless these countries, belonging to the same river basin, form a geographical
unit, and this fact is reflected in their history. Geographically this basin
consists of two regions, viz. the southern province, through which runs the
Fig. 52. — Z0NE8 OF Obanoes and Olivks.
OUofj
Oranaed
impetuous Rhone, and the departments of Central France, which are drained by
the tranquil Saone and its affluents.
Proceiire. — The coasts of Provence remind us oftentimes of Tunis or
Algeria. The promontories of limestone, porphyry, or granite, the sub-tropical
vegetation, the glittering villas embosomed in thickets of olive-trees, and the
radiant sky are the same as on the opposite coast of Africa, and it is there-
fore not without reason that naturalists include the coasts of Provence and
Southern Spain within a region which embraces likewise the African countries to
the north of the Atlas. Moreover, the most advanced group of mountains
between the Lion Gulf and Genoa, that of the Moors (2,r).'j6 feet), is quite distinct
from the Alps, and riither resembles the mountains of Corsica. This group of
granitic hills is named after the Moors or Saracens, who maintained themselves
in its recesses during the ninth and tenth centuries. There are here vast forests
of chestnut-trees, pines, and cork-trees, bHt the soil, as a rule, is sterile, and the
76
FRANCE.
number of inhabitants small. Yet, on account of its delicious climate, its orange
groves, its palms, its fine beaches and bold promontories, it is one of the most
attractive districts of all Provence. The islands of ITyeres rise to the south of
these hills, that of Porquerolles, named after the wild boars which formerly
roamed over it, being nearest to the peninsula of Giens, which was formeilj- an
island, but is now attached to the continent by a neck of laud, enclosing brackish
ponds abounding in fish.
Another small group of mountains, that of Esterel, rises to the north of the
Fig. .53. — The Mountains of thb Mours.
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valley of Argens and the Bay of Frejus, and, like that of the Moors, is completely
severed from the Alps. An old Roman road leads across these hills, which are
barren and rugged, but form a succession of porphyry and red sandstone promon-
tories, amongst which Cap Roux is one of the n est magnificent on the Mediterranean.
The mountains which ri.se immediately to the north of these two groups show
by their strike and geological formation that they, too, do not belong to the
GENERAL ASPECTS. -MOUNTAINS.
77
Alps. Amongst them are the heights of Ste. Baume (3,421 feet), which
terminate between Marseilles and Toulon in the superb promontories Bec-de-
I'Aigle, Cap Canaille (1,364 feet), and Cap Tiboulen, and the Chaine de TEtoile,
with a miniature Mount Olympus (2,605 feet). Other ranges rise to the north
of the valley of the Arc, which was a gulf of the sea at the commencement of
the tertiary epoch. The eastern extremity qf this valley forms a magnificent
amphitheatre, bounded in the north by the wooded heights of Ste. Victoire
(3,283 feet). It was here Marius destroyed the Teutonic hosts, and the A'illage
of Pourrieres recalls the Campi Putridi upon which thousands of the slain were
left to putrefy. All these limestone ranges exhibit a line more or less parallel
Fig. 64. — The Valley of the Arc and the Heights of Ste. Victoike.
Scale 1 : 240,000.
' A MUea.
with the granitic nucleus of the mountains of the Moors ; but the serrated chain
of the Alpines or Alpilles (1,614 feet), which farther east rises alove the stony
pasture lands of La Crau, already belongs to the system of the Alps, being in
reality only a prolongation of the chain of the Leberon, from which it is separated
by the valley of the Durance. A small volcano, now extinct, rises in the midst
of these hills.
The parallel ranges stretching towards the valley of the Var, in Eastern
Provence, are also ramifications of the Alps. Some of these Jurassic ranges
resemble the interior slope of a bastion ; others contrast by their barrenness with
*^he smiling gardens of the Hesperides at their feet, irrigated by the fertilising
78
FRANCE.
waters of the Siagne. The highest summit of these ranges is Mont Cheiron
(5,834 feet).
The Maritime Alps. — The promontories which are reflected in the blue
waters of Nice and Mentone, to the east of the Var, belong to the Maritime
Alps. The bold terrace of the Tete-de-Chien, or " dog's head," at Monaco, with
its steep precipices, bears a high tower dedicated to the Emperor Augustus, the
" conqueror of all the nations of the Alps," and forms a good natural boundary
between French and Italian Liguria. The political frontier between these two
countries, however, as drawn in 1860, lies farther to the east, and follows an
arbitrary direction.
The Maritime Alps extend from the Pass of Tenda in the east to the Pass of
Fii. 55. — The Vekuon at Quinson.
Larche (6,480 feet) in the north. Their most elevated summits are covered with
perennial snow. The torrents to which glaciers and numerous small lakes give
birth on the Mediterranean slope, force their way through narrow defil^es cut
through lime and sandstones. Similar gorges, or clux, are met with in the lime-
stone hills extending westward to the Durance, one of the most remarkable being
that of the river Verdon, above Quinson.*
The Cottian Alps. — Monte Viso (12,586 feet), which was looked upon for a
long time as the highest summit of the Alps, and has only recently been
ascended by Mr. Mathews, an Englishman, forms a connecting link between the
Maritime Alps and the Alps of Dauphine The geological features of these
mountains differ widely fi-oni what we meet with in other parts of the Alps.
* Hlghesl suiiimiia in Ihe Maritime Aljs : — Clapier de Pagaiin, 9,994 feet; Meicantourn, 10,391 feet.
GENEBAL ASPECTS. -MOUNTAINS.
79
Monte Viso itself consists of serpentine. Granite is met with on the Italian
slopes, but schists and limestones predominate on those of France as far as the
valley of the Durance. This district, with its gorges and piles of rock, has not
inappropriately been termed Queyras, or " land of stones."
The roads which connect the valley of the Durance and Provence with the
valley of the Po lead across these Alps of Queyras and Monte Viso, collectively
known as Cottian Alps. One of these paths crosses immediately to the north of
Monte Viso at an elevation of 9,824 feet. A tunnel, or trarersette, excavated
as long ago as the fifteenth century, renders its passage practicable at all seasons,
in spite of avalanches, mists, and storms. The Pass of Mont Genevre (6,067 feet),
Fig. 66. — The Gorge, ob " Cnjg," op thb Vkrdon.
Scile I : iRi.noo.
2 Miles.
now practicable for carriages, was first I'sed by Hannibal and his army. These
and other passes, however, are only of local impoi'tailce now, and are frequented
almost exclusively by Piemontese who cross over into France in search of work.
During the Middle Ages they were important, too, as military highways, and the
mouths of the valleys leading up to them were guarded by fortresses, some of
which are still maintained — as, for instance, Embrun (2,809 feet), Mont Dauphin,
and Brianfon (4,3;i.'} feet), on the Durance. The inhabitants of these remote
valleys might have maintained their independence if the country had not so
frequently been overrun by armies. On both slopes of the Alps they speak the
same dialect, and long befori." the Reformation they separated from the Roman
80
FRANCE.
Church. In spite of massacres we there still meet with many Waldenses, or
Vaudois, St. Veran (6,592 feet), the most elevated village in all France,
being one of their principal seats. These Waldenses were formerly distin-
guished for their superior education, and in winter as many as a thousand of
them came down to the towns of the Rhone valley, and taught the mysteries of
reading and writing in return for a miserable pittance. The establishment of
village schools has put an end to this pursuit, and many of the natives have sought
a new home in Algeria.
The Alps of Daiiphine. — Another Alpine group, that of Oisans, rises to the
west of the valley of the Durance,- which, with its southern ramification, the
Fig. 57. — The Glaciebs of Oisans.
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Champsaur, lies wholly within France, and is bounded in the north by the deep
valley of the Romanche and the Pass of Lautaret (6,792 feet), in the east and south
by tributaries of the Durance, and in the west by the Drac. This mountain
group consists of granite, encircled by Jurassic and cretaceous rock. Mont
Pelvoux (12,773 feet) is the most prominent summit of this group, but the Barro
des ferins (13,462 feet), and the Aiguille, or " needle " of Modje (l:j,078 feet), the
latter immediately to the south of the valley of the Romanche, exceed it in height.
Grlaciers cover about one-third of the area of this mountain group, and fairly rival
those of Switzerland. The most considerable amongst them, that of Mont de
Lans (5,293 feet), covers an area of 8 square miles, and when making the tour of
GENERAL ASPECTS.— MOUNTAINS.
61
the upper valley of V^n^on, passing the glacier of La Grave and the Aiguille of
Olan (12,740 feet), we walk for a distance of 35 miles over ice and snow fields.
The mo.st remarkable of these glaciers are, perhaps, those which descend from the
slopes of Mont Pelvoux and the Pointe des Arsines, and meet in the upper valley
of the Vallouise. One of them, the " Black Glacier," is covered completely with
rocks and earth so as to almost resemble a stream of mud, whilst the other, the
" White Glacier," is of dazzling whiteness, and gives birth to a torrent of bluish
water. None of these glaciers reach very far down into the valleys, and we are
Fig. S8. — Aiaun,tB op the Medjb.
not, consequently, charmed by the contrasts between verdant woods and ice, such
as delight the eye in Switzerland. Indeed, there are but few trees left in these
mountains, though there exist luxuriant pasture grounds, notably near the wealthy
village of Venose, the inhabitants of which export rare Alpine plants as far us Ilussia
and America.
A few Protestant congregations still remain, but the Waldenses, who formerly
inhabited the fine valley of Vallouise, have been wholly exterminated. The present
p(ipulation of the country is wretchedly poor, and cretinism prevails. The famous
42
82
FRANCE.
cliurch of T.a Salette stands high above the valley of the Drac, in the midst of
luxuriant pastures ; and near it, in the narrow valley of Godemar, there existed
until recently traces of a more ancient worship. In spring, when the sun first
appeared above the crest of the mountains opposite, the villagers of Andrieux used
to walk there in procession, and sacrifice pancakes in honour of the conqueror
of winter.
Chaotic masses of mountains occupy the whole of the region bounded by the
;59._The Gi.ac-iek of I.a Grave.
Durance and the Isere, and extend down into the valley of the Rhone. Going
west from Mont Pelvoux, we reach the plateau of Mutlieysine (-J, 050 feet), covered
with small lakes, pierced by crystalline mountains, and bounded by the precipices
overhanging the waters of the Ronianche and the Drac. Crossing the latter, we
reach the Quatre-Montugnes, or " four ranges," separated by affluents of the Isere,
and running parallel with the Pennine Alps. In the north, beyond the Isere, the
mountains of the Grande Chartreuse (6,847 feet) extend in the same direction, and
GENERAL ASPECTS.— MOUNTAINS. 83
in the south they are joined to the mountains of Vercors (7,695 feet), all three
having the same geological forraalion. The latter are hardly Alpine in their
character, their great heauty consisting in the contrasts afforded between open
valleys and sombre gorges through which torrents escape in picturesque cascades,
in the southern aspect of their sunny slopes, and the bold outline of some of their
rocky declivities.
The formidable Pass of Lus-la-Croix-Haute (4,920 feet) separates the Vercors
from a mountain group known as Devoluy, a name which etymologists derive from
the Latin derolutum, with reference to the immense masses of rock which have
" tumbled down " into the valleys and gorges. The base of the great Peak of
Aurouze (8,905 feet) is completely surrounded by mounds of detritus, which, seen
from afar, have the appearance of white marble buttresses. Other mountains
resemble huge piles of rocks. Of this kind are the Obiou (9,160 feet) and
Faraud, which a local legend transforms into hostile giants who hurled huge
rocks at each other. This excessive weathering of the mountains is accounted fur
by their geological composition. As a rule, strata of hard rocks alternate with
deposits of soft earth, and no sooner have rains, torrents, and frosts disintegrated
or carried away the latter than the superimposed rocks slide down into the valleys,
together with the villages which are built upon them, or tumble into fragments. To
a great extent, however, the improvidence of man is responsible for this rapid dis-
integration of the mount;iins, for it was he who destroyed the forests which
formerly covered and sheltered them. These forests, however, are gradually being
replanted.*
The mountain ranges which ramify to the south, towards the confluence of the
Rhone and the Dura:ice, resemble those just noticed in geological composition, and
present the same white rocks and barren slopes. The forest of Saou (5,223 feet)
has long since succumbed to the woodman's axe. Farther south rise the rampart-
like mountains of Lure (5,99o feet), attached by a transversal chain to the rugged
Leberon (3,690 feet), the reddish flanks of which are covered with patches of copse.
Atmospheric influences acting upon rocks possessing such difierent degrees of
resistance have resulted in some curiously grotesque formations. Thus to the
north of Forcalquier may be seen a group of mushroom-sliaped rocks known as
Le'k Mourr^, the tops of which consist of blocks of compact limestone supported
upon stalks composed of clay marl.
Farther west rises a mountain appropriately called Ventoux, or the " windy "
(6,273 feet), which, owing to its isolated position, impresses the spectator
more than its height would warrant. Its lower slopes are covered with a belt of
verdure, and an ascent to its summit affords an opportunity for studying successive
belts of vegetation. The palasontological discoveries made in this part of France
shed much light upon ancient flora and fauna. The miocene strata of the
Ventoux and Leberon abound with the remains of lions, gazelles, hipparions, and
other animals no^ extinct. The miocene gypsum near Aix, on the other bank of
the Durance, has yielded fish, insect*, plants, and even feathers of fossil birds.
* Between 1861 and 1871 234,760 acres were planted with forest in the French Alps.
84
FKANCE.
The fossil fish discovered there prove conclusively that the Mediterranean formerly
communicated with the Indian Ocean.
Thanks to an agricultural discovery of great importance, the districts of the
Ventoux and Leberon are now being rapidly planted with woods. Joseph Talon,
a poor mushroom gatherer, discovered in the beginning of this century that this
coveted fungus grew more luxuriantly in the vicinity of oaks. He quietly planted
acorns in the retired spots to which he was in the habit of resorting, and for many
years he kept his secret. It is only since 1856 that this new industry has spread,
and since that year no fewer than 148,000 acres have been planted with oak in the
department of Vaucluse alone. This department and the adjoining one of the
Basses-Alpes now supply nearly one-half the mushrooms gathered throughout
Fig. 60. — The " Forest " of Saou.
Scale 1 : 160,000.
1; 5' E. of Pans
. 2 Miles.
France, and exported under the deceptive appellation of " truffles of Perigord."
The indirect advantages which have accrued to the country through the introduc-
tion of this industry are very great, for the flinty slopes and marls which are best
suited to the growth of these mushroom oaks are not adapted to agriculture, and
the newly planted forests cannot fail to exercise a happy influence upon the
climate, and put a stop to the ravages caused by torrents.*
Tlic Alps of Saroi/. — The famous chain of Maurienne, across which lead the
principal roads that connect France with Ilalv, separates Mont Pelvoux and the
• In 1875 32,000 ewts. of mushrooms were gathe cd thrmighnut France, valued at £640,000. "Vau-
cluse yielded 8,000 owts., Iho Busscs-Alpes 7,000 cwts., and Lul 6,000 cwls.
GENERAL ASPECTS.— MOUNTAINS.
85
upper valley of the Durance from Savoy. The Romans availed themselves of the
easiest passes of that region, and on the summit of that of the Little St. Ber-
nard may be seen a cromlech which they dedicated to Jupiter, and which is still
known as the column of Joux (Jove). At a subsequent date the Pass of Mont
Cenis (6,885 feet) became the great highway between P'rance and Italy ; but the
fine carriage road which connects Lans-le-Bourg with Susa has been very little used
since 1871, in which year the great railway tunnel constructed by Messrs. Grattone,
Grandis, and Sommellier beneath the Pass of Frejus was thrown open for traffic.
That tunnel connects Modane with Bardonneche ; it has a length of 40,092 feet,
and its summit lies at an elevation of 4,380 feet above the sea-level.
The mountains of Maurienne hold an intermediate position between the fine
summits of Switzerland, with their forests and luxuriant pastures, and the arid
Fig. 61.— Lcis HourrA.
slopes of the Devoluy and the Alps of Dauphine. In some of the valleys, and
notably in that of the Arc, which constitutes the district of Maurienne proper, we
meet only with arid slopes. The ancient forests have been destroyed there, and
the upper limit of vegetation seems to have retired in consequence. Man will
have to struggle hard if he desires to reconquer the ground that has been lost
through his own improvidence.
Though very inferior in height to Mont Blanc, and even to the group of
Oisans, this chain of Maurienne, with its numerous ramifications, is of very great
importance. Vast masses of ice have accumulated in its rock-surrounded amphi-
theatres, and give rise to four considerable rivers, the Isere, the Oreo, the Stura,
and the Arc. Formerly, when these mountains were yet unexplored, it was
thought, on account of these snows, that Mont Iseran, in their centre, must attain
86
FEANCE.
a very considerable height ; But mont, in the patois of the country, simply means
" pass," and that of Iseran lies at an elevation of only 8,034 feet. The Grande
Casse (12,740 feet) and the Aiguille of Vanoise (12,675 feet) are culminating
summits on French, and Mont Paradis (13,271 feet) on Italian soil.
Valleys penetrate deeply into these mountains, and some of the more sheltered
amongst them are permanently inhabited to a height of nearly 6,000 feet. The
half-buried houses of Bonneval (5,900 feet), at the foot of Mont Iseran, are cut off
Fig. 62.— Mont Blanc as seen from Chamonix.
from the rest of the world for several months in winter, and barley and rye take
fourteen or fifteen months to ripen there. The want of pure air in these valleys,
the long and severe winter, and the deep shadows thrown by the mountains during
summer are popularly supposed to produce goitre and idiocy, which Dr. Grange
ascribes to the magnesian limestone of the country. He estimates the number of
persons suffering from goitre in Alaurionne at 30 per cent, of the total population,
and in certain localities of the Tarentuise the proportion is still higher. The long
MONT
NEW -YOViy. ,
APPLETON a- CO
GENERAL ASPECTS.— MOUNTAINS. 87
wiuters, however, enable these mountaineers to acquire some education ; and
formerly many Savoyard teachers were to be found in the towns of the Rhone
valley.
The granitic ranges to the west of Maurienne run in a direction conformable
to that of the Jura, and are intersected by the rugged gorges through which the
Isere, the Romanche, and the Arc find their way to the west. The group of the
Grandes Rousses (11,910 feet) is the highest summit here. Farther west, above
Grenoble, rises the three-peaked Belledone (9,778 feet), from the summit of which
we look down upon the verdant valley of Graisivaudan and the limestone moun-
tains which bound it on the west.
From a geological point of view the mountain mass of which Mont Blanc
(15,777 feet) is the centre is but a northern continuation of these western ranges
of Savoy. Its relief, however, marks it off very distinctly. The enormous
mass of talcose granite or protogine of which it is formed is separated by the
Passes of the Little St. Bernard (6,897 feet) and Bonhomme (8,161 feet) from
the other mountains of Savoy in the south ; sinks down steeply into the valley of
the Rhone on the north ; presents steep, glacier- covered slopes towards Italy ; and
descends more gently towards the French valley of Chamonix. At an anterior
period, when Mont Blanc was several thousand feet higher than it is now, it
formed but a single mountain mass with the Aiguilles-Rouges, now separated from
it by the valley of Chamonix.
The area occupied by Mont Blanc and its buttresses cannot compare with
certain mountains of Switzerland, nor does it give rise to any great rivers, for only
the Arveiron, or Arve, and the Dora Baltea rise on it, the one flowing to the
Rhone, the other to the To. Its glaciers and snow- fields, however, are without a
rival in Europe. They cover 104 square miles, of which 04 drain into the valley
of Chamonix. The most famous of these glaciers is the Mer de Glace, or " sea of
ice," which slides down the valley at a rate of 328 feet annually, and gives birth
to the Arve.
Discovered as it were by two Englishmen, Pococke and Wyndham, about the
middle of the eighteenth century, and ascended for the first time bj' Jacques
Balmat in 1786, Mont Blanc has since become one of the great attractions of all
admirers of nature. Chamonix (3,444 feet), at its foot, has grown into a town ot
hotels; and other villages in its vicinity, such as St. Gervais and Cormayeur
(4,067 feet), participate in the profits derived from tourists.
The mountains in Northern Savoy, which occupy the region between Mont
Blanc, the Rhone, and the Lake of Geneva, form a sort of link between the Alps and
the Jura, and from a geological point of view it is sometimes difficult to determine
of which of either of these systems a certain mountain may be assumed to form
a part. The cretaceous and Jurassic ranges generally nm from the south-west to
the north-east ; that is, parallel with the Jura. Such is the direction of the pine-
clad ranges of the Grande Chartreuse (Chamechaude, 6,847 feet), of the parallel
ridges of the Beauges (4,996 feet) to the north of Chamb^ry, and of the ranges
of Saleve (4,523 feet) and Voirons, near Geneva.
88
FRANCE.
Most of the valleys of this region are of considerable width, and not mere gorges
as in the Jura. There still exist, however, many defiles bounded by steep preci-
pices, as if they had been cut by a sword, and amongst these none are more striking
than those cut by the Rhone and its tributaries, Usses and Fier, through rocks
belonging to the lower cretaceous formations.
The transversal disposition of the mountain ranges of Western Savoy naturally
Fig. 63. — Ancient Lake Beds in Savoy.
Scale 1 : 200,000.
2 Miles.
led to the formation of numerous lakes. But most of these pent-up sheets of
water have long since disappeared, and there now exist only three of any extent,
viz. the Lakes of Annecy, Bourget, and Aiguebelette. In the valleys of the Arve,
the Giff're, and elsewhere, however, many old lake bnsins can still be traced. The
agency of water likewise accounts for the numerous caverns which pierce the
mountain sides of Savoy, as well as for frequent landslips. That of the Granier,
THE EHONE AND OTHER EIVEKS.
89
in 1248, buried a town and five villages near Chambery. Earthquakes, too, are
frequent, and may be due to subterranean strata settling down.
The Rhoxe axd other Rivers.*
Most of the heavy rain and snow which descend on the French slope of the
Alps find their way into the Rhone. Where that river leaves the Lake of Geneva
it is already of considerable size. Gliding along slowly at first, it gradually accele-
rates its course, and at the mouth of a picturesque gorge it is joined by the Arve,
fed by the glaciers of Mont Blanc. This latter, when in flood, is superior in
Fig. 64. — Pektb du Rhoxe and Belleoabde.
S'SO' Eof Op.
Scale 1 : 10,000.
volume to the Rhone, the flow of which is regulated by the Lake of Geneva.
When the snows melt in the Alps no less than 38,850 cubic feet of water are dis-
charged into that lake in the course of a minute. But this water spreads over the
• Surell. " Etude eur log torrents des HHutes-Alpes ; " Ch. Marlins. " Aigues-Mortos ; " E. DcBJardin»,
"Aper<;u historique gur It-B embouchures du Rhflne. 1866;" Adiien Germain, "Rapport tur Tetot d«
Tembouchure du KhSne en 1872 ; " Ch. Lentheric, " Lea villes mortes du golfe de Lyon."
RhOne (with SaSne
Doubs)
Audo
Orb
Hiraolt
Argnns
Var .
:)
MUes.
637
138
90
122
G3
73
Area of
BASn.
Sq. m.
DiMharge in
M.1X.
38,096 117o0
2,062
.591
1.119
1,243
880
29-43
24-53
36-;iO
(?)
39-23
Tons
Mia.
6-39
4-9
2-4
(P)
12-8
27-4?
Avenge Surface
Average lainfoU. drainage.
per sec.
16-SS
61
25(?)
60(?)
60 (P)
42(?)
In.
37
29
3d
39
31
35
In.
22
15
20 (f)
22 (:-)
19 (:-)
24(?)
90
FRANCE.
whole surface of the lake, and issues only gradually through the Rh6ne, the banks
of which, as far down as Lyons, suffer in consequence but rarely from inundations.
The Arve, on the other hand, possesses no such regulating reservoir, and frequently
carries destruction along its valley.
The Rhone, below its confluence with the Arve, crosses a district formerly
covered by the Lake of Geneva, and then penetrates into a deep gorge, bounded by
the eastern declivities of the Jura and by Mont du Vuache, or Chauinont, and
Fig. 65. — The Lake of Annecy.
Height 1,453 feet, area 10 square miles. Scale 1 : 230,000.
defended by Fort I'Ecluse, which overhangs it. The river rushes through this
gorge with great violence. At one spot it almost disappears beneath the rocks
which have tumbled down from the precipices that overhang it. This is the
" Perte du Rhone." A bridge there spans the abyss, and a short distance below it
is joined by the Valserine, passing thiough a gorge almost equally grand. The
great motive power of the river has been ingeniously utilised at that spot. A
tunnel conveys the water upon tourbine water-wheels erected in the bed of the
THE EIIOnE and OTHEK EIVEES.
91
Valserine, close to the confluence, and these wheels set in motion iron cables
communicating with the mills of Bellegarde, built several hundred feet above.
Thousands of tons of fossils are being ground there into dust, to be used as
manure.
At Bellegarde the Rhone abruptly turns to the south, flowing along the eastern
foot of the mountain chain which terminates in the Grand Colombier (5,033 feet),
overlooking the dried-up lake basin of Culoz. Within this ortion of its course
Fig. 66. — Thb Lake of Boukoet.
Height 770 feet, area 16 square miles. Seale 1 : 100,000.
Mile.
it is joined by two rivers, the Usses and the Fier. The former, having passed
beneath the famous high-level bridge of La Caille, enters the Rhone near Seyssel,
a place well known on account of its beds of asphalt. The Fier, rising in the
neighbourhood of Mont Bbmc, receives from a side valley the water discharged by
the Lake of Annecy. This lake consists of two distinct cavities or basins, and its
depth nowhere exceeds 100 feet. In many places its banks slope down gently,
a circumstance favourable to the construction of pile dwellings, the remains of
92 FRANCE.
many of which have been discovered. Elsewhere, however, they are steep, and
on the west the lake is commanded by the Semnoz (5,572 feet), or Pdgi of Savoy.
The existing emissary of this lake appears to be of artificial formation. The old
outlet took its course farther east through a swampy plain.
At Seyssel the Rhone becomes navigable, and soon afterwards spreads out in
numerous channels enclosing sand-banks and willow-covered islands. It crosses, in
fact, the bed of an ancient lake, of which the Lac du Bourget is the last remnant.
Anciently the great glaciers of the Rhone and the Isere met in this depression,
which subsequently was converted into a huge lake, fed by the Drac, the
Romanche, the Isere, and the Rhone. The glacial drift and erratic blocks, which
cover the mountain slopes to a height of 1,600 feet, sufficiently prove this. The
Lake of Bourget has been immortalised by Lamartine's verse, and although its
shores are comparatively barren, the bold grey wall of Mont du Chat reflected in
its blue waters when the sun is about to set, and its wooded peninsulas, afford
superb contrasts.
On leaving the swampy plain of Chautagne and Lavours, with its sluggish
ditches and covevs of wild duok^i, the Rhone for the last time takes its course
through a narrow gorge, overlooked in the north by the old Chartreuse of Pierrc-
Chatel, perched on the summit of an isolated limestone rock. Having received
the Guiers from the south, the river turns abruptly to the north-west, and as far as
the plain of the Ain flows along the western foot of the Jura Throughout this
portion of its course the Rhone has frequently changed its bed, and there is reason
to believe that it formerly flowed west across the shingles and gravels deposited by
ancient glaciers, and joined the Saone to the south of Lyons. The relief of
this portion of France has undergone a rapid transformation ever since these
glaciers retired from the vicinity of Lyons. In the valley of the Drac erratic
blocks are scattered over the hillsides to a height of 4,260 feet above the river,
and near Lyons up to 1,150 feet. Rock-groovings, locally known as marcs, or
mud terraces, abound throughout these hills.
Below its junction with the Ain the Rhone spreads out and forms innumerable
islands, its bed near the hills of Miribel being no less than 2 miles wide. But
soon after it loses its lacustrine character ; its waters are confined to a single bed ;
and at Lyons it joins the Saone, and thence flows majestically southwards towards
the Mediterranean.
A sail down the Rhone from Lyons is a source of great delight to the traveller.
Swiftly carried along,* he passes ever-varying scenes of beauty. Without much
swerving to the left or right, the Rhone, overcoming every obstacle, flows due
south, and Michelet aptly likens it to a " furious bull rushing from the Alps to
the sea." Rapidly do we pass black rocks and willow-clad islands, woods, crum-
bling ruins perched upon bold promontories, and populous towns. Looking up the
tributary valleys, we now and then get a peep at the distant mountains, the while
summits of the Alps on the left, the burnt-out volcanoes of Central France on the
* L<jngth of the Rhone, from the confluence with tlie Saone to the sea, 204 miles ; total fall, 532 feet,
or 32 inches per mile.
THE EHCNE AND OTHER RIVERS.
03
right. In front the powerful mass of the Ventoux gradually grows in size until it
shuts out one-half of the horizon. We are approaching a southern clime. Olive-
trees appear in the vineyards, and the rocks assume that calcined appearance
Fig. 67.— Ancbiit Glactkrs of the Rhoke and the Iii^rb.
HwUe 1 : 388,000.
lu Miles.
which is 80 characteristic of Greece and Sicily. At length the wide plain hounded
by the Cevennes and tlie foot-hills of the Alps stretches out belbre us, only a fiiW
isolated hillocks rising above it like islands.
The glacier-born Isere is the first great tributary which joins the Rhone below
M
PEANOE.
Lyons. Where it leaves the valley of Tiges it is a considerable torrent, which the
accession of the torrents of the Turentaise and of the Arc convert into a powerful
river. Formerly the Isere fed a huge lake, but now it takes its course through the
valley of Qraisivaudan, the bed of an ancient glacier river wide enough to accom-
modate a Nile or a Ganges. Formerly the Isere, when in flood, could spread itself
over this valley, but embankments now confine its bed to u uniform width of 367
feet. These embankments sufficiently protect the country on ordinary occasions,
but inundations, when they do occur now, prove all the more formidable to
Grenoble. Close to that town the Drac joins from the south, its principal tribu-
tary, the Romanche, rising in the glaciers in the west of the mountain mass of
Oisuns. In the twelfth century a landslip converted a portion of the valley of the
latter into a lake, and when the barrier broke in 1219, the freed waters carried
destruction before them, and even the inhabitants of Grenoble had to flee for their
lives. Among the smaller rivers which join the Isere lower down, the Fure is the
Fig. 68. — Plain of La Valloire.
Scale 1 : 400,000.
1 Mile.
most important. It rises in the Lake of Paladru, famous for its pile dwellings.
As to the rivers which disappear in the swallows (rii-a'oirs) of the plateau of
Bievre, and passing beneath the huge moraine of Antimont, reappear again through
the " eyes " (clairen) near St. Rambert, they flow direct to the Rhone. The
discharge of the Isere varies exceedingly according to the seasons, and, owing to
the grey tint imparted to its water bj' the triturated rocks suspended in it, can be
traced for several miles below the confluence. A few barges navigate this large
river, but the traffic is of no importance whatever.
The Drome traverses several small lakes formed in the fifteenth century by
landslips, or dapiers, but not being fed by glaciers, its volum3 varies much
according to the seasons. And the same may be said of the other rivers rising
in the foot-bills of the Alps ; they are mere torrents, almost dry in summer, but
carrying destruction before them after heavy rains.
Very different from these are the rivers which cross the fertile plains of Car-
pentras and Avignon, for they are fed from subterranean reservoirs in the lime-
THE RHONE AND OTHER RIVERS.
05
stone hills, and their springs do not dry up, even in the height of summer. Fore-
most amongst these rivers is the Sorgues of Vaucluse, which rises a considerable
river from a cavern surrounded bj' barren precipices. Flowing past a monument
dedicated to Petrarch, it debouches upon the pliin, and ramifies into numerous
canals, which carry fertility wherever they go. Formerly the plain lying between
the mountains and a range of limestone hills separating it from the Rhone valley
was covered with lakelets and swamps, but drainage works have transformed it
into a most productive district.
The proximity of the mountains of Vivarais and of the Cevennes to the western
bank of the Rhone has prevented the formation of long rivers, but the torrents
which rise in those mountains rival even the Mississippi in volume when flooded.
Fig. 69.— The Soroues of VaucLusi.
Scale 1 : -260,000.
I J- 3u' E. ulF
I 5" W h. ol Or.
2 Miles.
M. Marchegay has calculated that on the 10th of September, 1857, the Doux, the
Erieux, and the Ardeche, all of them lying within the limits of a single department,
discharged every second 494,000 cubic feet of water into the Rhone. This is more
than the discharge of the Ganges and Euphrates combined. Fortunately the floods
occurring on both sides of the Rhone valley never coincide, for the western slope of
the Alps is sheltered from the moisture-laden winds which precipitate torrents of
rain upon the Mediterranean slopes of the Cevennes. If this coincidence existed
the lower valley of the Rhone would be converted into a pestilential swamp. As
it is, the damage done by inundations sometimes amounts to millions, and in 1840
the whole of Camarguc and the plains on both banks of the Rhone were converted
into a fresh-water lake 20 miles wide.
The erosive power of these torrents is wonderfully great. The Ardeche more
U(5
FRANCE.
especially, rising seventy and more feet when in flood, has done marvels in that
respect. At one spot it has abandoned its ancient bed, forcing itself a fresh
passage through a wall of rock. This is the famous Pont d'Arc, or the " Arch," one
Fig. 70.— Pont d'Abc (Akd&che).
Scale 1 : 400,000.
1 Mile.
of the curiosities of the valley, which boasts, moreover, of columns of ba.sult and of
remarkable canons.
The valleys of the Ceze and the Gard, or Garden, likewise abound in natural
beauties. The latter disappears for a short distance between the rocks. Where it
debouches from its gorge it is spanned by a beautiful Roman aqueduct, which
formerly supplied Nimes with water. It is a work of imposing grandeur, but
the modern railway bridges and viaducts, close by, need not dread comparison
with it.
THE RHONE AND OTHER RIVERS.
97
The Durance, which joins the Rhone a short distance below Avignon, is sup-
posed by geologists to have formerly emptied itself into the Bay of Fas, to the east
of the mouths of the Rhone. Subsequently it excavated itself a passage, severing
the Leberon from the Alpines ; and this much is certain, that the cunal of the
Alpines is an ancient bed of it. The Durance, like the Isere, is a son of the Alps,
and though its head-stream, the Clairee, is not fed by glaciers, several of it.«
tributaries are. These glaciers, however, are not very extensive, and the river.
fig. 71. — Post u'Akc (ARDkciig).
Ti^j;-- ^5*- -G -J
down to its mouth, has the character of a torrent, reduced at one time to a thin
thread meandering amongst cram, or fields of shingle, at others more voluminous
than all the rivers of France together. The geological work performed bv this
river has been immense. Amongst the ancient lake beds now silted up, that
extending from Sisteron to the mouth of the Verdon is one of the most remarkable,
because of its earthy slopes of Mees, curiously carved into obelisks and pillars. In
spite of its length of 23d miles and an average discharge of 1'2,26() cubic feet per
43
98
FRANCE.
second (maximum 326,000, minimum 1,906 cubic feet), the Durance is not navi-
gable. During the Middle Ages vessels were able to proceed up to Pertuis, and we
may conclude from this that there then existed lakes or barriers in its upper course
which regulated its flow. But though not navigable, the Durance is invaluable
for purposes of irrigation. The 18,000,000 tons of mud annually carried down it
are computed by M. Herve-Mangon to contain as much assimilable nitrogen as
100,000 tons of the best guano, and as much carbon as could be supplied annually
from a forest 121,100 acres in extent. On leaving the gorge of Mirabeau, where it
is spanned by a bridge only 490 feet in length, the Durance enters upon a broad
Kg. 72. — The Roman Aqueduct ovee the Gaud.
valley, which would be scorched by the sun if it were not for the fertilising
waters derived from it.
One canal, that of Marseilles, taps it near Pertuis, and crossing the valley of
the Arc at Roquefavour on a magnificent aqueduct, irrigates the gardens of
Marseilles before entering the Mediterranean. Another canal, that of Crapponne,
leaves the river lower down, and ramifies into numerous branches. It was
excavated in the sixteenth century, and has converted the whilom barren tracts
through which it leads into one of the most productive districts of France. A third
canal skirts the Alpines on the north, and a fourth extends north in the direction
THE RHONE AND OTHER RIVERS.
99
of Carpentras. On an average these four canals absorb about 2,440 cubic feet of
water every second. Quite recently, in 1875, the Verdon, one of the principal
tributaries of the Durance, was tapped, and now supplies Aix with 210 cubic feet
of water every minute. It passes through two tunnels, the one 13,000, the other
16,000 feet in length. Several dams have been thrown across the gorges of the
Upper Durance and Verdon to regulate the floods, and the conversion of the small
Lake of Alios, near the source of the Verdon and at an elevation of 7,200 feet, into
a huge reservoir, has been talked about. Next to the huertas of Spain and the
Fig. 73. — The Crau and thb Caxal op Crapponnb.
Scale 1 : 530,000.
5 Miles.
plains of Lombardy, the valley of the Lower Durance is even now the best-irrigated
district of Europe.
By means of these canals, planned by Adam de Crappnnne, the whole of the
stony desert known as Crau might be converted into fertile land in the course of
three hundred and twenty years. This district, about 131,000 acres, is completely
covered with flints, some of them embedded in hardened mud. Six-sevenths of
these flints have been deposited by the Rhone, the remainder by the Durance. The
pudding-stones upon which they rest are of marine origin, and the Crau has
100
FRANCE.
altogether the appearance of an ancient bed of the sea. Formerly this waterless
waste was visited only by ha./les, or herdsmen, but the canals which now traverse it
are skirted by trees and cultivated fields. Some of the rain which falls upon this
tract finds its way through subterranean channels to the vicinity of the sea, and
there reappears again in plenteous springs. More than three hundred such gush
forth to the north of the lagoon of Galejon. They are known as Lcuu-ons, a name
frequently given to springs in other parts of France.
At some future time the Rhone itself may be utilised for purposes of irrigation,
more extensively than at present. This river, owing to its rapid current, is
of but little use as a navigable high-road, and since the completion of the railway
from Lyons to Marseilles the sixty-two steamers which formerly navigated it
Fig. 74. — The Canal of the Vehdon.
Scale 1 : 240.000
b-50' E. oir. Paris.
h ol ( I
' have dwindled down to six or eight. It is a pity that this great natural high-road
should be thus deserted, and works to render it navigable throughout the
year for steamers of 300 tons have actually been begun, and are to be completed
in 1882. Vessels will then be able, by making use of canals, to proceed from
Havre through the centre of France to the Mediterranean.
It has likewise been proposed to utilise the Rhone for purposes of irrigation
by carrying a huge canal along the left bank of the river from Vienne to Mornas,
where it would cross to the right bank by means of a gigantic siphon, and after
having irrigated the districts of Nimes, Montpellier, and Beziers, terminate at
Narbonne, in the basin of the Aude. The total length of this canal would amount
to 280 miles, and, besides supplying the towns and villages along it with water, it
would suffice for the irrigation of 494,000 acres.
THE RHONE AND OTHER RIVERS.
101
At Fourques (the Forks), 8 miles below the bridge of Beaucaire, the Rhone
bifurcates and its delta commences. The Little Rhone flows south-west across the
alluvial soil of the ancient Gulf of Beaucaire, whilst the Great Rhone flows straight
to the south, and constitutes the principal high-road of commerce. The former is
supposed to have been the main branch in bygone ages, and as far south as the
saline swamps near Montpellier do we meet with flints of Alpine origin, carried
thither by the river. Even during historical times the branches of the river have
undergone numerous changes. Ancient authors speak of two, three, five, or even
seven mouths ; but if we include all gratis, or minor channels, we may arrive at the
latter number even now. Plinj' enumerates three mouths, the main or Massa-
liotic branch being in the east, as at present. The western branch was known as
Oa Hispanieiise, or " Spanish arm," because it flowed in the direction of Spain ; and
Fig. 7.5. — The Delta of the Khone.
.V E-ofTaria 1
XJiofy -"^ \. ^^
y\j^ TlX _;ifc!^lKI'"2®'9'J'i .y'/Uiii^V_jJpvJk- V^'-
■V ^^r f J
^^^^^^^
\\ V ^' i( A"^
^^^^^S^^^^c^^^S ife^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^w^
^^M
0 ,p
S0>file3. .if^ n ^'^
^ 1 1
tUf^A^I^U.
k»'Z.ottrr. 1
even during the Middle Ages there existed a navigable branch which led into the
lagoon of Thau. M. Emilien Dumas has pointed out that each ramification of the
river led to corresponding changes in the coast-line. When the Rhone first
bifurcated at the Forks the beach extended to what is now the northern part of
the deltoid island of Caraargue. Since that time the fauna of the Mediterranean
has undergone some changes. The Panopwa AMrorandi, which is now found only
on the coast of Sicily, was then common on the Lion Gulf, and the Peden maximm,
at present very rare, abounded.
The delta formed by the two main branches of the river wholly consists of an
alluvial deposit of mud. It covers an area of 185,000 acres, about one-half of
which is included in the island of Camargue, dusty in summer, half drowned
in winter, and almost without inhabitants. If we may judge from the Roman
102 FRANCE.
ruins discovered there, the country was formerly more salubrious. The embank-
ments which now confine the Rhone are probubly the cause of this insalubrity, for
they prevent the drainage of the stagnant, fever-breeding pools in their rear,
besides preventing the deposition of fresh alluvium. In the northern portion of
this island there are a few fields, cutlivated by peasants who brave the fever,
besides extensive pasture grounds, roamed over by white horses, half- wild cattle,
and manaden of buffaloes [Bos hubalm), which figure on the racecourses of the
towns of Southern France. The " Little Sea," or lagoon of Vaccares, in the south,
with its fringe of marshes and tamarisk thickets, is an ancient arm of the sta, from
which it is separated now by a chain of dunes. Near it are saline tracts [san-
iouires) void of all vegetation, and rarely visited by man, but the resort of num-
berless migratory birds. Even flamingoes are occasionally seen, and the beavers
which have built their lodges in the embankments lining the Little Rhone are not
interfered with. A beautiful tree, resembling the aspen, grows on the more
elevated sites of the Camargue, and the canals that traverse its northern portion
are fringed with willows, poplars, and elms, but the forests which anciently covered
the whole of its interior have disappeared. Scarcely one-fifth of the area of the
Camargue is under cultivation now, and although the cold mistral interferes
with the success of certain plants, the delta of the Rhone might nevertheless be
converted into a region equalling in fertility the delta of the Nile. No less than
27,500,000 cubic yards of alluvial soil are annually swept into the sea, instead of
being utilised, and a bar closes all access to the river by large vessels. An artesian
well near Aigues-Mortes, in the Little Camargue, though bored to a depth of
330 feet, only passed through such alluvial soil, without reaching the solid rock.
The delta of the Rhone has gained upon the sea ever since the time of the Romans.
A watch-tower built at the mouth of the Great Rhone in 1737 now stands five
miles above it, thus showing that the annual rate of growth since that date has
amounted to 175 feet. Altogether between 80 and 120 square miles of land have
been added to the delta of the Rhone since the Gallo-Roman period.
We have seen above that the mouths of the Rhone are obstructed by bars, the
formation of which is promoted by the almost entire absence of tides, the flood
in the Lion Gulf only rising 16 inches. The embankments which have been
constructed have failed to remove the obstacles to navigation, and vessels drawing
more than 10 feet can scarcely ever venture to enter the river, even though the
wind should be favourable. In the time of the Romans Aries communicated with
the sea by a chain of lagoons and canals constructed by Marius, and hence known
as Fossw Marianw. But the canal of Aries, which replaces this ancient water-way, is
navigable only for small vessels. At length, in 1863, thanks to the persever-
ing advocacy of M. Hippolyte Pent, a ship canal 20 feet deep was constructed
between the tower of St. Louis and the Gulf of Fos. This canal leads into a huge
basin covering 31 acres, by the side of which a new commercial town is
springing into existence, and a railway will soon establish rapid communications
between this new port and the remainder of France. In spite of the vicinity of the
marshes the mortality at St. Louis is not greater than at Aries, and might be very
THE RHONE AND OTHER RIVERS.
108
mucli reduced by a proper attention to sanitary laws ; and if the place has not
prospered hitherto, this is due to the jealousies of Marseilles and of the powerful
railway company, the one dreading the loss of its monopoly, the other the develop-
ment of an important river traffic. One danger, however, threatens the prosperity
of this canal — the Gulf of Fos is gradually being silted up ; but this danger
might be removed by diverting the waters of the Great Rhone into the " Grau,"
or lagoon, of Roustan.
The changes in the course of the Little Rhone are historically as important as
those of the Great Rhone. St. Gilles, accessible now only to canal boats, was
Fig. 76 —The ('anal of St. Louis.
formerly one of the great ports of Southern France, at which most of the pilgrims
going to Palestine embarked during the twelfth century. Aigues-Mortes, lower
down on the same branch of the river, sprang into existence subsequently. But
about the middle of the sixteenth century the Little Rhone took a more easterly
course, and it now enters the sea through the Grau of Orgon, near which is the
fishing villiige of Saintes- Maries, separated by vast sands and swamps from all
other centres of population. There, as well as farther east, at the lighthouse of
Faraman, the sea is gaining upon the land.
The town of Aigues-Mortes. thus called on account of the stagnant waters
101
FRANCE.
which surround it, has frequently been cited in proof of a remarkable encroach-
ment of the sea, but erroneously in our opinion. The local guides point out the
spot at which St. Louis is said to have embarked for the. Holy Land, though it
has been proved conclusively that he did so at a point five miles to the south-west of
the town. The vessels which were to convey the crusaders cast anchor at the spot
marked A upon our plan, close to the mouth of an old canal, still known as Grau
Louis. The remains of embankments and the vestiges of a crusaders' burial-
ground enable us to trace the direction of this canal, which anciently connected
Fig. 77. — The Lagoons of Aioues-Mortes.
Scale 1 : 100.000.
i°|5o'E.nf Pans
tif#-^^^^^vW J' ' ' ?^ , , 1 hmi -^ ir^ l\ E^^
V" lo F of Gr
A A. " Foi-ei(?n " Roads'eaJ where the clusaders embarked.
B. Site of Port in thirteenth century. C. Site of Tort, thirteenth to eighteenth centaiy.
1 M le.
the town with its port at Grau Louis. Since then the lagoons have undergone
many changes, partly owing to the alluvium deposited by the Rhone and other
rivers, partly in consequence of the construction of a new canal by Louis XV.,
which enters the sea at the Grau du Roi. If any further proof were wanted in
support of the as.sertion that the sea along that part of the coast has not encroached
upon the land, it would be furnished by the existence of four lines of dunes, which
mark as many conquests of the laud over the sea. The town of Aigues-Mortes
undoubtedly occupies a site which was anciently covered by the floods of the
THE RHONE AND OTHER RIVERS.
lOS
Mediterranean. The outermost of these lines of dunes, that of Boucanet, only
supports a few tamarisks, but the innermost is covered with a forest of maritime
Fig. 78. — The Delta of the Alde.
Scale 1 : 225,iKin.
^^iH^it/H< aiti
e MUes.
pines, which impart a character of mournful grandeur to the landscape. This
Sylve Godesque, however, has been reduced to very small dimensions in our
day.
106 FRANCE.
A careful examination of this portion of the coast-line enables us to assert that
It will remain stable for centuries to come. The Little Rhone annually carries
about 5,2:32,000 cubic yards of sediment to the sea, but nearly all this is deposited
near the lighthouse of Espiguette, to the east of the Gulf of Aigues-Mortes ; and
supposing this point to continue to encroach upon the sea at its present rate, no less
than two thousand years will have to elapse before the gulf is converted into a
lagoon. The roadstead at Aigues-Mortes is, moreover, sheltered from the dangerous
south-easterly winds, and the construction of a harbour of refuge at the Grau du
Roi has consequently been advocated by competent engineers. Aigues-Mortes,
which now hardly imports anything but the oranges of Valencia and of tlie
Balearic Isles, might then become an important seaport.
The rivers which flow from the slopes of the Cevennes into the Mediterranean
may be considered as belonging geologically to the basin of the Rhone. Even the
Aude, the first river to the north of the Pyrenees, bears a certain family likeness
to the torrents of the Rhone valley, although only its northern tributaries rise in
the Cevennes. Like all other Mediterranean rivers born in these mountains, the
Aude presents all the features of a torrent, its volume fluctuating according to the
seasons between 180,000 and 106,000 cubic feet per second. On leaving the gorges
of Capsir and the forest of Sault the Aude flows due north until, below Carcassonne,
it is joined by the Fresquel, when it curves round to the east. The delta of this
river is proportionately mora extensive than that of the Rhone, for it covers 50,000
acres, and between its two arms is enclosed the ancient mountain island of La
Clape. No less than 2,224,000 cubic yards of mud are annually carried down the
river, most of which is deposited upon the inland swamps, the mountain barrier at
the mouth of the river preventing it from being carried into the sea. In the time
of St. Louis there were salt-pans on the swamp of Capestang. It is now sepa-
rated from the sea by 9 miles of solid land. The swamp of Montady has been
converted into dry land since the middle of the thirteenth century. The site of
Lake Rubrensis, which extended to the walls of Narbonne, is now occupied by
fields ; and the lagoons of Gruissan and Bages, which formerly were one, are
now separated by a strip of alluvial land.
The Canal du Midi, or Great Southern Canal, with its branches no less than
339 miles in length, accompanies the Aude during the greater part of its course.
Its supply of water is principally derived from the Alzau, Lampy, and other small
rivers rising in the Cevennes. These are intercepted by a canal (Rigole de la
Montague) leading into the lake-like reservoir of St. Ferreol, holding 6,254,000
tons of water, whence another Rigole leads down to the navigation canal. Unfor-
tunately, this great work of the seventeenth century, which connects the Rhone
with the Garonne, has fallen into the clutches of the Great Southern Railway
Company, 'and is but little used for the conveyance of merchandise.
The Orb enters the sea to the east of the Aude. It discharges its waters
through a single mouth now, that of Grande Maire having almost become oblite-
rated, and dwindles down into nn insignificant stream during summer. The Herault,
THE EHONE AND OTHER RIVERS.
107
its neighbour, and the most important river between the Aude and the Rhone, on
the other hand, is fed by plenteous sptings rising iu wild limestone gorges. The
river is navigable for sea-going vessels throughout the year as far as Agde, and
Richelieu began the construction of a breakwater at its mouth, which has never
been completed, the engineers having since then devoted the whole of their
energies to the creation of an artificial harbour at Cette.
Amongst the small rivers between the Herault and the Rhone the Lez is the
best known, because it flows past Montpellier, but the Vidourle is far more tj'pical
of the torrents descending from the Cevennes. During the dry season it does not
Fig. 79. — RiooLEs OF the Ganai, dv Midi.
Scale 1 : 820.0(10.
O' W. of P
2- E. Ill Or.
r> 7.IUe8,
even reach the Mediterranean, but when in flood its volume exceeds that of the
Seine at Paris thirty times, and the inhabitants then utilise it for irrigating the
reed-banks of the lagoon of Repausset, near Aigues-Mortes, the produce of which
is converted into manure or used for covering chairs.
The Argens is the only French river to the east of the Rhone which can
fairly claim that epithet. Like many other rivulets in that limestone region, for a
portion of its upper course it passes underground, but long before it falls into the
shallow Bay of Frejus it becomes a placid stream, maintaining a fair volume
throughout the year. There are several underground rivers along this Provencal
coast, which only rise as springs beneath the waves of the Mediterranean.
108
FRANCE.
Perhaps the most remarkable of these is the spring of Port-Miou, near Cassis,
which originates in the ancient Lakes of Aubagne and Gemenos, drained by King
Rene, and gushes forth with sufficient violence to create a veritable current.
The Var, which for a long period formed the boundary between France and
Italy, though longer than the Argens, remains a current down to its embouchure,
being reduced at one time to a mere streamlet, at others rushing down with such
violence as to overflow its embankments, though these are 2,600 feet apart.
Fig. 80.— Thb Mouth of the H^hault and Cap d'Agde.
Scale 1 : 70,000.
o-jy* /aMoTTur
I 1 Mile.
Goer S pcUhoma
Coast-link .\^d Lagoons.
The difference between the configuration of the coast on both sides of the
Rhone delta is most striking. In Provence we meet with bold cliffs and promon-
tories, whilst to the east of the river we find ourselves in the presence of a beach
formed of sand carried down from the granitic mountains in the interior of the
country. "In Provence the cliffs sink down almost precipitously into the sea,
and molluscs are found there only in a few sandj^ creeks, whilst on the coast of
Languedoc the sea deepens gradually. This difference of physical configuration
accounts to a great extent for the history of the two provinces. In the one case
COAST-LINE AND LAGOONS.
109
towns were built close upon the sea, in the other they are remote from it, and
Languedoe thus possesses the characteristics of an inland country rather than of a
maritime one.
In its details the beach of Languedoe is not without beauty. It is broken up
by mountains, hills, or masses of rock into a number of sections. One of these
Fig. 81. — Leucate ani> the Roadstfad of Fkanqci.
Sc.ile 1 : fS.OOO.
H
J
Ovtr io Fathom*
extends between the Point of Collioure and Cape Leucate ; a second sweeps round
from the latter to the Cape of Agde ; a third reaches thence to Cette ; whilst the
fourth and last stretches from Cette to the sandy flats of the Rhone delta. The
promontories afford some shelter to vessels endangered by the dreaded tempests of
the Lion Gulf, but the most secure anchorage along that coast, that of Franqui, to
110
FRANCE.
the north of the peninsula of Leucato, has not yet been converted into a port,
although possessed of special facilities for the construction of one.
With the exception of the Cape of Agde, which is an extinct volcano, the
ancient rocky islands along that coast, now joined to the mainland by alluvial
deposits, are composed of cretaceous or Jurassic limestone. The ancient crater of
Agde has been converted into a vineyard. Streams of lava extend from it in all
directions. A few minor volcanoes are near it.
The ancient coast, such as it existed before the volcano of Agde had become a
portion of the mainland, can still be traced by following the contours of the hills
Fig. 82.— The Lagoon of Thau.
. 5 MUes.
bounding the alluvial plains. Lagoons, or itangs, extend along the whole of
the coast, fiom the very foot of the Alberes ; and where no sediment-bearing rivers
flow into them, they are of considerable area and depth. That of Leucate is a case
in point. No river flows into it, but close by, at the foot of a limestone rock, rise
the remarkable springs of Salses, now known as Font-Dame and Font-Estramer,
dischargmg streams of water having nearly the same chemical composition as that
of the ocean. At the side of the Font-Estramer grows a species of reed — Phrag-
mites gigrinfea—which is not met with anywhere else in Europe.
The lagoon of Thau (Taphrus), between the volcano of Agde and the hills of
COAST-LINE AND LAGOONS.
Ill
La Gurdiole (774 feet), is the most important of all, on account of its great depth
and tlie towns which line its shores. This little sea of 18,500 acres is separated from
the Mediterranean by a narrow strip of land. A narrow chunnel, furnished with
locks, and forming the eastern termination of the Great Southern Canal, connects it
with the open sea. Another canal, nearly 40 miles in length, places it in communica-
tion with the delta of the Rhone. The lagoon is thus of considerable importance
to navigation. Its waters are as salt as those of the sea, except after heavy rains
and near the mouths of some of the rivers which enter it. A bounteous spring,
Fig. 83. — BioNOMicAL Condition op tub T.ittokal Region op HiRAutT.
The cirolss ind'citc prtrpirtionaUy to wh»t extent the mean age at death is inferior to that
throughout France.
The asterisk de.io'.es a locilit)r where the mean age is liigher than the average throughout Fi-ance.
known as the " Ahize " (abyss), rises from the bottom of the lagoon in the north,
and not far from it there is an intermittent spring which discharges fresh water
during winter, up to April, but swallows up the water of the lagoon, a phenomenon
similar to what has been noticed at Argostoli, on the i.sland of Cephalonia. The
lagoon of Thau is public property, and supplies annually £40,000 worth of
tish and shells. Oy.sters are said to have abounded in it formerly, and an old
bed has been di.scovei-ed at a distance of 500 yards from the modern beach, but an
attempt to breed oysters there has failed signally.
There can be no doubt that these lagoons might easily be drained and converted
112
FRANCE.
into fertile fields. Experiments on a small scale, which were made at Narbonne
and Vic, have been attended by the most perfect success. This is not merely a
question of converting 60,000 acres of lagoon, at present producing only fish,
willows, and reeds, into productive arable land ; it is still more important in its bear-
ings upon the salubrity of the climate. M. Regy has calculated that these swamps
shorten the lives of the people who reside near them to the extent of ten, fifteen,
and even nineteen years. More than half the children at Mireval and Vias die before
they have attained their sixth year, and strangers who settle in the country ; Imost
Fig. 84.— Etano de Bekbe.
Scale J : 320.000.
. 5 Miles.
invariably suffer from marsli fever. Those lagoons which iiro over 3 feet in
depth do not injuriously affect the health of the people who live near them, and
the mortality at Cette and other places on the lagoon of Thau is hardly greater
than in the rest of France. But when the water, owing to its shallowness, attains
a temperature of 82° F., it becomes dangerous to health. These shallow lagoons
ought, therefore, either to be suppressed, or be made to communicate freely with
the open sea. In the case of the lagoon of Mauguio the latter has already been
done, and the same treatment would prove efficatiDus with those of Vic and
COAST-LINE AND LAGOONS.
118
Frontignan ; but M. Regy is of opinion that all others, being very shallow, should
be converted into polders without loss of time.
The changes in the configuration of the lagoons have led, within the historical
period, to a displacement of the principal towns. Astruc, more than a century
ago, observed that the names of the towns on the hills were Celtic, whilst those
near the coast invariably bore Greek or Latin appellations. It may fairly be
inferred from this that the coast became habitable only at a comparatively recent
epoch. The encroachment of the land upon the sea enabled the inhabitants to
found quite a chain of new towns, including Agde, Cette, Frontignan, and Aigues-
Mortes. Maguelone, however, which formerly stood upon an island, now joined
to the mainland, appears to be of ancient foundation. It was a busy place of
commerce as long as the Saracens held it. After their expulsion by Charles
Martel it again rose from its ashes, but having become a place of refuge of the
Pig. 85. — The Caxal op Cahonte.
Scale 1 ; 8S,000.
IMilc.
Protestants, it was finally destroyed by order of Louis XIII., and there now only
remains an ancient church, forming a prominent object in the midst of the sands.
The only lagoons to the east of the Rhone which originated in the same
manner as those on the Lion Gulf are those of Valduc, Engrenier, and several
others, which formerly communicated with the sea through a channel, now closed
by a bar, and known as the lagoon of Estomac (Storaa-Limne). As to the lagoons
of Valduc and Engrenier, they are shut off from the Mediterranean altogether,
and, owing to an excess of evaporation, their level, on an average, is about
80 feet lower than that of the sea. They are miniature Caspians, and yield a con-
siderable amount of salt.
The large inland sea known as Etang de Berre is not a lagoon, but a gulf,
separated from the Mediterranean by a rocky ridge. The Romans had a port on
this gulf, but it is now only frequented by a few fishermen, and not a single town
44
114
FRANCE.
rises from its shores ; and yet, by deepening the canal of Caronte, which joins it to
the Mediterranean, this great natural harbour might be rendered accessible to the
largest vessels. If the Etang de Berre belonged to England, it would long ago
have been converted into a great commercial and naval depot. Vessels at anchor
within it are not only beyond the reach of an enemy's guns, but, being hidden by
the coast range of Estaque, they are actually out of sight. The owners of the
fisheries, or bordigues, are bound to dredge the canal of Caronte to a depth of
39 inches. "Were they to neglect doing so, it would quickly become choked,
and the Etang de Berre shut off from the sea.
Climate.*
However striking the differences between the littoral regions on both sides of the
Rhone, they enjoy the same climate, always excepting the fever-stricken neigh-
bourhoods of the swamps. This
Fig. 86.— The Prevailing Winds at Aiques-Mobtes. climate differs essentially from
what is met with in the remain-
der of France, for land winds
predominate here, whilst sea
winds prevail in all the depart-
ments beyond the Cevennes and
the wide valley of the Rhone.
The air is drier, and it rains less
frequently, though, as a rule, in
heavy showers.
No visitor to the south of
France can have failed to notice
the gusts of north-westerly wind
which blow from the Cevennes,
and are produced by local causes.
This violent wind is known as
" mistral " {mcigis traou) or
" master," and it fully deserves that epithet, for its velocity sometimes equals that
of a hurricane. Strabo tells us that this " black norther" lifted men off th«ir cars
and carried away their clothes, and in our days it has overturned railway trains.
Not a tree in the plains of Avignon and on the islands of the Rhone but exhibits
traces of its violence. The originating cause of this wind must be looked for in the
great contrast between a sandy beach scorched by the rays of the sun and a snow-clad
mountain range. The heated air above the former rises, whilst the cold mountain
air rushes down the hillsides to establish an equilibrium. The greater the
difference between the temperature of these two atmospheric strata, the greater the
violence of the wind. In the night, when the beach has cooled down by radiation,
—
H.W.
T
1.
HI.
^-
/
^:w_.
-E.
.4
'
^ _...s**\^
^
^ \..
_^
* On tiie rains in H^rault see a paper by M. Ch. Martins, in Mem. de I'Ac. de Montpellier, viii. 1872.
AUDE. 115
there is a lull, and at some distance from the land it is hardly felt at all. In
spite of the dread it inspires, the mistral is a welcome visitor, for it purifies the
air of the towns, which are not always remarkable for cleanliness.
The contrasts existing between the coast regions and the mountains, and the
winds resulting therefrom, account for the frequency of thunder-storms in the low
lands. As long as the mistral and the sea wind are not engaged in a conflict, the
clouds drift towards the mountains, and there descend in rain. But when the
mistral, blowing in the higher strata of the atmosphere, is met by the cloud-laden
sea breeze, an exchange of electricity takes place between them, and the rain
descends in torrents. As a rule tlie rainfall increases as we proceed from the coast
towards the mountains, and is most copious in autumn. There are, however,
many exceptions to this rule, and there have been years when it rained most
heavily in February, and scarcely at all in autumn. This capriciousness of the
climate appears to be reflected in the character of the " Gavaches " of the Cevennes
and the " Franciaux " of Dauphine. They, too, have their bursts of passion, but
quickly calm down, being not unlike, in this respect, to the mistral or to a
thunder-storm.
Topography.
AuDE. — This department, named after its principal river, is eminently a land
of passage, bordering upon the Mediterranean, but partly lying within the basin
of the Garonne. It is almost exclusively an agricultural country, manufactures,
existing only in the towns and in the upper valley of the Hers. Less than one-
third of its area is under cultivation, and although its vineyards are of some
importance, the population is far from dense.
Castelnaudary (7,628 inhabitants), on the water-shed between the Mediter-
ranean and the Atlantic, has played a great part during the civil wars ; but the
frequent sieges which it has undergone have prevented it from becoming a great
commercial town. Windmills now occupy the sites of its ancient forts, it is the
busiest ship-yard on the Canal du Midi, and manufactures coarse cloths, like most
other towns of that part of Languedoc. Belpvch (978 inhabitants), Ste. Colomhe,
and Chdlahre (1,792 ijihabitants), all of them to the south, on the Upper Hers,
are likewise noted for their cloths and linens.
The river Aude enters the department through the terrible gorge of Car-
canieres. Lower down it flows past Qnlllan (2,286 inhabitants), a busy place,
with saw-mills supplied with fir-trees from the forest of Sault, in the Pyrenees.
There are several noted mineral springs in the vicinity, including the sulphur
springs of Ginoks, in the south-west ; the ferruginous springs of Rennes-leH-BaiH8,
in the valley of the Sals, to the north-east ; and those of Couizn and Alet, on the
banks of the Aude. Alet was the seat of a bishop during the Middle Ages, and
its ancient episcopal pal ice still overt' iwers all its other houses. Still following
the Aude, we arrive at Limoux (6,037 inhabitants), on the white hills of which
is grown a wine known as hlanquette. Its manufactures of cloth and felt are
116
FBANCE.
of little importance now. Carcassonne (23,517 inhabitants), the capital of the
department, occupies a favourable site at the elbow of the Aude, and on the
high-road connecting the Mediterranean with the Atlantic. The mediaeval " city "
occupies a hill, and its walls and towers, erected between the fifth and the four-
teenth centuries, as well as several remarkable old buildings, still remain to it.
The lower town, however, is by far the most populous. Its fortifications have
been razed to gain space for houses and manufactures. Carcassonne, besides
manufacturing much cloth, carries on a considerable commerce with wines and
agricultural produce, and also exports the fine marbles of Cannes (1,998 inha-
bitants).
Narhonne (18,325 inhabitants), the maritime capital of the department, was
of far greater importance during the dominion of the Romans, when it boasted
Fig. 87. — The Port of La Nouvelle.
Scale 1 : 3,000.
o'|aSW.<Pan»
t' liSW«fCr.
1,000 Yards.
of 80,000 inhabitants, and of magnificent public buildings, of which only few
traces exist now. The church of St. Just is the most remarkable amongst
its mediaeval buildings. The geographical position of Narbonne is excellent,
but, owing to the silting up of the lagoons and canals, it no longer enjoys the
advantages of a maritime city. The canal which connects it with its port of
Ln Nouvelle is only navigable for fishing-smacks, and possesses no importance
whatever. The environs of the city, however, have been brought under cultivation,
and there is a busy trade in wine.
The most important towns of the arrondissement of Narbonne are Lezignan
(4,402 inhabitants), with numerous distilleries, and Sigean (3,510 inhabitants), on
a hill overlooking the lagoon and its salt works. Gniissan (2,382 inhabitants) is
hardly more than a village of salt-makers and fishermen, whilst Coursan (2,507
inhabitants), in the valley of the Aude, stands in the most fertile district of the
-.4
Zi
o
;j
S3
•H
'J
^r
HEEAULT. 117
department. Armissan, in the mountains of La Clupe, has limestone quarries
which have yielded the fossil bones of saurians and batrachians, which lived
here at an epoch when a vast lake occupied the greater portion of southern
Languedoc. The village of Size, in the defiles of the Cesse, has become famous
through its caves, in which bones and stone implements have been found. Durban,
in the hills of the Corbieres, noted for their honey, has a few coal mines.
Heratilt is one of the wealthiest departments of France. Its coal mines are
annually increasing in importance ; its lagoons are more productive than any
others along the Mediterranean ; its vineyards supply between 4,000,000 and
7,000,000 gallons of wine annually ; and railways trav.erse it in all directions.
Unfortunately the ravages of the phylloxera threaten destruction to one of the
great sources of wealth of the department. In some of the invaded districts the
peasants have taken to the cultivation of Javanese hemp, a plant said to yield
a fibre " finer than cotton, stronger than flax, and as brilliant as silk." The
density of population is about equal to the average throughout France, although
the barren mountains in the north are only thinly peopled by " Gavaches," who
leave their homes in the autumn to assist in the vintage.
The village of Minerce has given its name to the entire region drained by
the Cesse and bj' other tributaries of the Aude. The romantic spot at which the
Cesse is joined by the Brian was formerly dedicated to Minerva, and although
the heathen deity has since been superseded by St. Rustique, her name still
lives in the village and in the castle which commands it. This castle was
captured in 1210 by Simon de Montfort, who had its defenders burnt alive.
St. Pons (3,358 inhabitants), the chief town in the eastern portion of the
department, lies at the mouth of a much-frequented gap of the Cevennes. Like
its smaller neighbours, Rioh (1,121 inhabitants) and St. Chinian (2,690 inha-
bitants), it carries on the manufacture of cloth, an industry which likewise forms
the chief support of Bedarieux (7,372 inhabitants), on the Upper Orb. The latter,
however, has also cotton-mills, dye works, tanneries, paper-mills, and glass works.
Near it are the coal-pits of Gramensac (2,G32 inhabitants), yielding nearly 300,000
tons a year. Copper and argentiferous lead are found in the neighbouring hills,
and close to the town, in the valley of La Maloit, there are hot and cold springs,
similar to those of Vichy.
Biziers (36,928 inhabitants), on the Lower Orb, is one of the historical cities of
France. Its inhabitants still call themselves " Biterrois," from Bseterrae, the old
name of their town. The latter has frequently been burnt down, but has always
risen from its ashes, and is now one of the great wine and brandy marts of France.
There are scarcely any traces of Roman buildings, but amongst the mediaeval
churches is that of the Madeleine, in which took place, in 1209, an indiscriminat6
massacre of heretics, whose wives and daughters were divided amongst the
Aragonese soldiery. Of modern structures the most remarkable is the aqueduct of
the Canal du Midi.
The basin of the Herault can boast of no town the eqtial in population and
commerce to Beziers, but it abounds in factories. Lodive (10,198 inhabitants), on
118
FRANCE.
the Ergue, has huge cloth-mills, much of the wool used being grown on the neigh-
bouring plateau of Larzac and on the heaths of the Cevennes.
Clermont-F Hirault (5,685 inhabitants) and several other places lower down on
the same river are likewise engaged in the woollen manufacture. Ganges (4,345
inhabitants), on the Herault, and close to the frontier of the department, has silk
and cotton mills. The river thence passes through a picturesque gorge abounding
in natural curiosities. At Aniane (3,457 inhabitants), with its old abbey converted
into a penitentiary, and Gignac (2,653 inhabitants), with an old chapel much fre-
quented by pilgrims, we enter upon the region of vineyards. Pezenan (7,570
inhabitants), on the Lower Herault, has been known from the time of the Romans
for its excellent woollen stuffs, but it has also many vinegar works, distilleries, and
Fig. 88. — The Haubour op Cettb.
Scale 1 : 35,350.
l*n'Ja'.E of P.
cooperies, and almost monopolizes the trade in acetate of copper, a substance much
used in the manufacture of colours.
Agde (7,728 inhabitants), the natural outlet of this industrial district, might
have become a great emporium if its harbour had aflPorded better facilities. It is
more remarkable now for its black houses, built of blocks of lava, than for its com-
merce, which has deserted it in favour of the modern town of Cctte (28,152 inha-
bitants). This town stands on a channel connecting the lagoon of Thau with the
Mediterranean. It is the terminus of the Canal du Midi, and although it has not
realised the expectation of its founders, it has become one of the great ports of
France. Its exports consist mainly of salt procured from the neighbouring
lagoons, wine, coal, and ores. There are numerous factories, but not a single
GAED. 119
building of note, and owing to tlie absence of trees, the aspect of the country is far
from inviting. Marseillan (3,885 inhabitants), Meze (6,501 inhabitants), Bouzigues,
a Bshing village, and Balaruc, with hot mineral springs, lie on the lagoon of Thau,
and constitute outposts of Cette. Frontignan (2,910 inhabitants), famous for its
muscatel grown on the slopes of Gardiole, lies to the north of Cette, and is joined
to it bj' an embankment.
Montpellier (51,838 inhabitants), the most populous town of the department, the
head-quarters of the civil and military authorities, was known in Gallo-Roman
times as Sextantio, and then stood on the left bank of the Lez, on a site now
occupied by the village of Castelnau. After the destruction of this ancient town
by Charles Martel its inhabitants established themselves on the Mons Pessulanus,
on the other bank of the river. Montpellier may justly boast of its schools, its
museums and scientific collections, and its botanical gardens, the oldest in all
Europe, in which Tournefort and A. de Jussieu created their systems. Its phy-
sicians became famous in the twelfth century, thanks to the influence exercised in
Languedoc by the Moors. The names of Nostradamus, Rondelet, Bauhin, and De
Candolle are associated with its schools, and there was a time when Montpellier
rivalled Paris as a seat of learning. There is a citadel, but no enciente hems in
the town, and from the delightful walks of the Payrou the eye ranges freely over
the whole of the country from the Cevennes to the sea, and looks down upon the
noble aqueduct which conveys to this the waters of the springs of Boulidou.
Blankets, soap, and candles are manufactured, and there is a considerable trade in
wine. The town, unfortunately, has no port of its own, for the Lez is navigable
only for barges, and Palacas, at its mouth, is accessible only to fishing-smacks.
Formerly the town exported its products through Latfes, on the lagoon, or
through Maguelone, on the Mediterranean, but at present it avails itself of the
facilities afforded by Cette. Amongst the smaller towns near Montpellier may be
mentioned St. Georges d'Orqttes and Liinel (8,024 inhabitants), both of which
produce excellent wines.
Gard. — This department is named after the river Gard, or Gardon, which flows
through its centre. It extends from the Rhone to the crest of the Cevennes, and
even beyond, and borders upon the Mediterranean only for a small distance. The
natural resources of Gard are very considerable. It produces coal, iron, and salt,
as well as silk (about 5,000,000 lbs a year), but its vineyards have been almost
destroyed recently by the invasion of the phylloxera. The number of Protestants
in the department is still very considerable, for the Cevennes afforded them a place
of refuge in times of persecution. Religious animosities are not yet dead, and in
periods of political excitement they still come to the surface. Even at Niraes, where
the Protestants constitute rather more than a fourth of the population — about the
proportion throughout the department — they inhabit a separate quarter of the
town, and Meyerbeer's Huguenots has never been heard there.
Le Vigan (4,340 inhabitants), the capital of that portion of the department
which belongs to the basin of the Herault, carries on the manufacture of gloves
and silk caps, as does also its neighbour, Sumhie (1,972 inhabitants), and owns
120
FRANCE.
coal-pits and quarries of lithograptic stones. The towns in the valley of the
Vidourle and of the plains of Vaunage, which extend thence towards Niraes— such
as St. Hippohjte-k-Fort (3,9G0 inhabitants), Same (2,070 inhabitants), Sommieres
(3,588 inhabitants), and Gallargms (1,947 inhabitants)— are for the most part
inhabited by Protestants engaged in the manufacture of woollen, cotton, and silk
stuffs. Sauve is known for its wooden forks, and Gallargues, until quite recently,
prepared wrappers for Dutch cheeses by a very nasty process, happily superseded
through the discovery of aniline.
La Salle (1,934 inhabitants) and Anduze (4,2-50 inhabitants), on the Western
Garden, have some manufactures, but the great industrial centre of this portion of
Fig. 89. — The Puotertant Coxgkecations in the South of Fkance.
the Cevennes lies between Alais (16,726 inhabitants) and Grand' Comhe (5,342
inhabitants), where coal abounds, and iron works, foundries, lead and copper works,
machine shops, glass and chemical works, have sprung into existence. Another
coal-field lies to the north, in the valley of the Ceze, its centres being Besneges
(7,953 inhabitants), Rohiac (4,290 inhabitants), and St. Amhroix (3,410 inha-
bitants) . The coal won in these two districts is already competing with English
coal in the ports of the Mediterranean. Alais, moreover, is one of the great raw-
silk marts in France.*
The arrondissement of Uzes, which comprises the valleys of the Lower Ceze and
Garden, and extends in the east to the Rhone, has a few silk-mills and other manu-
• In 1875 the department produced 1,092,000 tons of coal, and 85,800 tons of pig-iron.
NIMES. 121
factories, Imt is chiefly noted for some remarkable buililings. Uzes (4,8C5 inha-
bitants) has an old cathedral ; at EemonlinH there is a ri-markuble Roman
aqueduct over the Gard ; and Pont St. Esprit (3,882 inhabitants) is famous for its
bridge over the Rhone, which is 2,756 feet in length, and was constructed
between 1*65 and 1309. liaynoh-sur-Ceze (3,868 inhabitants) is a busy place of
commerce.
Ninu'S (60,804 inhabitants), next to Marseilles and Toulon the largest town of
Southern France, lies in an arid plain far away from any navigable river. It
arose probably around the sanctuary of Nemausus, a god of the ancient Celts, to
whom the Romans likewise subsequently raised altars. Formerly, before a canal
supplied the town with water from the Rhone, the city was dependent for its water
upon a single "fountain " yielding only sixteen pints a minute, and the washer-
women then travelled every morning to the Rhone, 15 miles distant, to clean their
linen. But in spite of want of water, Nimes, owing to its being situated on the
high-road between the Rhone valley and the western shore of the Lion Gulf, has at
all times enjoyed a considerable amount of prosperity. It abounds in Roman
remains, but with the exception of a temple of the age of Augustus, now used as a
museum, and of a huge amphitheatre occasionally visited by Spanish toreros, the}'
are in ruins. Nimes is a busy manufacturing town. About the middle of last
century it was noted for its silks ; but most of its workmen are engaged now in
the production of shawls, velvet-pile carpets, and silk pocket-handkerchiefs. The
industry of the town has suffered, however, through the loss of tho American
market, and the competition of Aubusson and Beauvais, and living is no longer as
cheap there as it used to be, mainly in consequence of the destruction of the vine-
yards. Efforts are, however, being made to create fresh industries. Chinese
bamboos have been acclimatized with success, and are converted into fancy furni-
ture, which already forms an article of export to Great Britain.
Beaucaire, the ancient Ugernum (7,956 inhabitants), at the head of the Rhone
delta, and united with its sister town of Tarascon by a suspension bridge, is the
commercial port of Nimes. Raymond VI. of Toulouse did well when he built a
fort at that place in 1217, and established a fair there, which formerly attracted
as many as 300,000 strangers from Italy and every part of France. This fair is still
held annually, but it is attended by pleasure-seekers rather than merchants, and its
business transactions have declined from £1,200,000, in 1836, to £80,000 in 1874.
St. Gilles (5,705 inhabitants), on the Little Rhone, was a busy port during
the twelfth century, but the canal which connects it with the sea is only navigable
now for barges, and its streets wear an aspect of desolation. Aigues-Mories (3,167
inhabitants) is actually the onlj' maritime port of Nimes and of its wealtliy neigh-
bour Vauvert (3,935 inhabitants), but it is even more forsaken than St. Gilles. '
On looking at its crenellated walls, we might fancy ourselves transplanted to
another age. These walls, however, frequently protect the toA\-n against being
invaded by the floods of the Rhone. The inhabitants of Aigues-Mortes depend
mainly upon their fisheries, their salt works, and the cultivation of reeds, for there
is hardly any foreign commerce.
46
122
FEANCE.
Ardkche lies to the north of Gard, between the Rhone and the Cevennes, and
almost corresponds with the ancient province of Vivarais. Nearly all its rivers flow
to the Ardeche, or direct into the Rhone, but Mont Gerbier de Jones (5,092 feet),
which gives birth to the Loire, rises within its limits. Geographically the depart-
ment consists of two regions, separated by the limestone range of Coiron. The
basin of the Arde'ihe resembles Gard as to its aspect, productions, and indus-
tries, whilst the northern portion of the department, traversed by the Erieux, the
Doux, and their numerous tributaries, recalls Forez and the Lyonnais. Ardeche,
Fig. 90. — Bbaucaike and Takascon.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
.t^f^^h
I Aw ^ffabrpgues
♦ "'W'E.of Gi-
, 1 MUe.
the native country of Olivier de Serres, the agriculturist, is one of the best-culti-
vated districts of France. Even its mountain slopes are laid out in terraces, whilst
the high slopes are covered with chestnut forests. This department, too, has
suffered from the ravages of phylloxera and from disease amongst its silkworms.
Largentlere (2,374 inhabitants), the capital of the western arrondissement, has
lost every importance since its silver mines have become exhausted, and Aiibenas
(5,082 inhabitants) is at present the leading town of the valley of the Ardeche.
The neighbourhood produces much silk, and there are silk-mills, paper-mills, and
tan-yards. About 5 miles to the north of that town, and close to the extinct
AEDfiCHE.
123
volcano of Vivarais, are the mineral springs of Fah (1,785 inhabitants;, which
have recently become very popular.
Vivierg (2,053 inhabitants), on the Rhone, the ancient capital of the Vivarais,
and still the seat of a bishop, has now only a magnificent cathedral and fortifica-
tions to remind us of its days of grandeur. At Aps, a village in the valley of
the Escoutay, which debouches at Viviers, are Roman ruins, and the site has
Fig. 91. — The Invasion of the Phylloxer'.
Pla^n^ in, i66q
{■■":::■ ,i.vr.
PtoffUA in. idyi
Flagvuc in, iSj4
been identified with Alba Augusta of the Romans. Boui-ff St. Andeol (3,80(V
inhabitants), below Vivierc, has a few mills propelled by the water of the fountain
of Tournes, and Freil (1,771 inhabitants), above it, exports annually thousands of
tons of hydraulic lime.
Following the Rhone upwards, we pass the old castle of Rochemaure, and,
turning ofl" to the left, arrive at Pricas (5,932 inhabitants), the capital of the
124 FRANCE.
department, with silk unci cloth factories, tan-yards, and other manufiictures. At
Chomcrac (1,131 inhabitants), close by, there are limestone quarries, and near
the villa o-e of St. Priest most productive iron mines. The ore procured
there is conveyed to the iron works of La Voulte (3,982 inhabitants) and Lf
Poiizin (2,611 inhabitants), both on the Rhone. Again following the river, we
reach Valence, the capital of Drome, opposite to which are the magnificent ruins
of Crimol, as well as the vineyards of St. Peray (1,762 inhabitants), the growth
of which is frequently sold as " Ermitage." Tournon (4,947 inhabitants), higher
up on the river, which is there spanned by the oldest suspension bridge in France,
is close to the hill which produces veritable Ermitage.
Annonay (13,738 inhabitants), in the north of the department, is one of the
great manufacturing towns of France. Goat-skins are dressed there in vast
numbers, and felt, silk stuffs, and paper are manufactured, the motive power being
supplied by a canal fed by a huge reservoir. It was from this town that Mont-
o-olfior ascended in a balloon, and an obelisk has been erected to commemorate the
event.
Bcrt^CHES-Dr-RHoNE (" Mouths of the Rhone "). — This department comprises
the delta of the Rhone and the country to the west of it. It is the natural outlet
of the entire Rhone valley, and Marseilles, its capital, has thus become one of the
great commercial centres of the world. In other respects, however, the depart-
ment is not favoured by nature. There are extensive stony wastes, the hills are
for the most part barren, and about one-third of the area is unproductive. Irriga-
tion, however, is carried on successfully, and in addition to olives, grapes, and other
products of horticulture, the department yields salt, coals, and lignite, engages
successfully in manufactures, and carries on a most extensive commerce. These
sources of wealth account for the relative density of its population.
Marseilles (234,690 inhabitants"!, the leading commercial port of the Mediter-
ranean, has during all periods of its history maintained its pre-eminent position.
Greek and Roman authors credit the Phocians of Asia Minor with having
founded the city, though ancient remains prove that the Phrenicians preceded
them. Marseilles became in course of time the most flourishing of all Greek
colonies, and down to the present day it has preserved the municipal feelings so
characteristic of ancient Greece. Its geographical position has prevented it fi-om
becoming tlie centre of a political system, but it is nevertheless the true capital of
Southern France, and whilst Paris looks to the north and the west, Marseilles
keeps its eyes upon the soiith and the east.
Ancient Marseilles, or Massilia, occupied the hilly peninsula to the north of the
old port, which then extended farther inland, whilst the cliffs facing the sea have
been gnawed away, since the days of Caesar, to the extent of 820 feet. Its port
would have been silted up long ere this, if dredging machines were not kept
constantly at work. It now covers an area of 60 acres, its average depth being
20 feet.
The sanitary condition of Marseilles was deplorable in former times, for there
was neither water nor proper drainage. Every stranger who settled in tlie town
r
O
as
Id
a
a
H
o
Ph
a
MARSEILLES.
125
had to pass through a dangerous period of acclimatization, and the plague was a
frequent visitor. The canal, which supplies the city with the water of the
Durance, has proved a real blessing to the inhabitants, for it suffices not merely
Fipr. 92. — 5r»IISEILLKi=.
OW city in the 'ime
of Julius Cfpsnr ftnd
in the thirleentb
century.
Extent of he city in
1666
1 Mile.
Incicase up to 1S72.
for domestic purposes, but has also converted thirsty fields into productive
gardens, and supplies the manufactories of the town with a cheap motive power.
Other improvements on a vast scale have been carried out. The ancient
fortifications have fallen, and the city has expanded in every direction. New
12G
FRANCE.
docks have been opened, and tlie conBtruction of a huge breakwater is under con-
sideration. The islands of Ratonneau and Pomegue afford, however, some shelter
to vessels making for Marseilles, and it is there the quarantine has been established.
Near them, on a small island, stands the castle of If, fanious as a state prison.
The citj' has not only been pierced by huge avenues, but many buildings with
some claim to architectural merit have been erected, and the Marseillais can no
longer be reproached with concentrating all their attention upon the soap and the
oil they deal in. One of the most characteristic of these structures is the Museum
Fig. 93. — Tub RuAnsxEAi) or IMause't.i.ps.
y|l7F...r&r. S°|
ri-g'
Rsi de
d e
Ma. r s e i 1 1 e
l.thVWIf.
W V
Hey d^ndouTne- ':
af*!:-. E..»f t-mTji 3*gr
3-'i 1'
1 Mile.
of Longchamp*. The best view of the city is obtained from the tower of the
Byzantine church of Notre-Dame, which crowns the most elevated hill to the south
of Marseilles. The public promenades, including the Prado, lined with magnificent
trees and numerous villas, and the Corniche, which follows the sinuosities of the
coast, are a great ornament to the town, and afford magnificent prospects of the
harbour and the picturesque promontories which bound it.
Marseilles, besides being a great commercial town, may boast of numerous
manufactories. In its metallurgical establishments the ores imported from abroad,
and more especially lead ores, are smelted. There are huge corn and oil mills and
MAESEILLES. 127
tanneries. Provisions are preserved and salted for the use of the navy. The
manufacture of soap (1,620,000 cwts. in 1875) equals that of the whole of the
remainder of France. The sugar refineries, too, are of great importance.
The merchants of Marseilles own a fleet of 783 vessels (including 210 steamers),
measuring 194,500 tons, most of these being built at Ciotat, La Seyne, and even
at Genoa. In 1875 8,757 vessels of 2,527,200 tons burden entered the harbour,
the imports were valued at £34,781,000, and the exports at £35,485,120.
Cereals constitute the principal articles of import, and next to them cattle, cotton,
wool, and iron ores from Algeria, Spanish wines, tea, silk, petroleum, timber,
hides, guano, sugar, coflFee, and oil seeds. Unfortunately most of the vessels are
obliged to leave in ballast, for the high tariffs of the railway companies prevent
Marseilles from exporting the coal of the Cevennes and the building stones of the
Alps.
Marseilles, in spite of the competition of Brindisi and Trieste, still remains the
great intermediary for the conveyance of passengers and costly merchandise
between the north-west of Europe and the East. This superiority, however, it is
sure to lose whenever Suloniki and Constantinople become connected with the
railway systems of the rest of Europe It will then have to seek compensation
for this loss elsewhere. In this respect Algeria holds out much promise for the
future. In 1874 Marseilles imported thence 400,000 tons of ore, 200,000 tons of
com, 50,000 tons of alfa, and 1,000,000 head of cattle. At the same time it will
be necessary to develop the railway connections of this great port, which is at
present dependent upon a single line for its communication with Paris, and has no
direct intercourse at all with either Cette or Bordeaux.
The smaller towns in the neighbourhood may almost be looked upon as suburbs
of the great city. Cassis, beyond Cap Tiboulen, produces the best wine of Pro-
vence, but likewise manufactures muscatel for exportation. At Ciotat (8,104 inha-
bitants), a little farther in the same direction, are the ship-yards of the Messa-
geries Maritimes, which usually employ 3,200 workmen. Aubagne (5,087 inha-
bitants), an inland town, has cement works; whilst Auriol (2,453 inhabitants),
Roqmvaire (1,749 inhabitants), and Peypin, in the upper valley of the Iluveaume,
have coal mines, plaster works, potteries, and soap works.
Crossing the hill known as La Viste, to the north of Marseilles, we reach the
valley of the Arc, the only important town in which is Aix (23,407 inhabitants),
the residence of a sovereign during the Middle Ages. Aix, in spite of its ancient
Academy, its Court of Appeal, and an archbishop, is a decaying place. It may
carry off" the honours, but Marseilles has possessed herself of the wealth of Pro-
vence. The famous springs are no longer fashionable. The town, nevertheless, is
most interesting on account of many of its ancient buildings, including the Roman
baths of Sextius ; it carries on a considerable commerce ; and the olives grown in
its plain, irrigated by a canal derived from the Verdon, furnish an oil of world-wide
reputation. In the upper valley of the Arc, at Gardanne (2,268 inhabitants),
Fuveau (2,253 inhabitants), and Trds (2,694 inhabitants), there are coal mines
yielding above 300,000 tons annually.
12S
FEANCE.
An ancient Roman road conducts iis from Aix to Sa/ou (5,085 inhabitants), on
the margin of the Crau, the fields of which are irrigated by the canal of Crapponne,
and thence to Arks (15,503 inhabitants), after Narbonne the most ancient Roman
Fig. 94.— The Macsoieum at St. Rent.
colony on Gallic soil. The position of this town at the head of the Rhone delta
insures its prosperity. It attained the height of its power in the thirteenth cen-
tury, when its flag was seen in all the ports of the Mediterranean, but dissensions
amongst its ruling families led to its fall. The town is rich in Roman remains.
AELES.
129
including an amphitheatre, and in mediaeval buildings, and its women are famous
for their beauty and good taste. Aries carries on a considerable commerce in agri-
cultural produce, cattle, horses, and sheep. A bridge connects it with the suburb
of Trinquetailles, in the Camargue, a district formerly described as the " granary
of the Roman army," but now a region of pestiferous swamps. In this district is
the hamlet of Saintes-Maries, before the church of which stood formerly two marble
Fig. 9fi. — Ku»o Knni'a Oastlb at Tauascov.
lions, in allusion to which the neighbouring gulf is said to have been named Lion
Gulf (Golfe du Lion).
Like Arle», the neighbourhood abounds in ancient remains. At Fontci/'lle (2,237
inhabitants) there are huge artificial caverns, which served as places of sepulchre
in prehistoric times. Bciiij; on the Alpines, has an old baronial castle hewn' out
of the solid rock, and St. Reiiii/ (3,490 inhabitants), beyond that range of beauti-
fully contoured hills, boasts of a fine mausoleum of the age of Caesar.
Tiirmcoii (7,777 inhabitants), the sister city of Beaucaire, has at all times been
a great place of traffic. Up to the thirteenth century it stood upon an island, but
180
FRANCE.
when King Rene built the castle, the massive proportions of which challenge
admiration, the channel separating this island from the left bank of the river had
been filled up.
Var, most absurdly called after the river Var, which lies outside its boundaries,
might more appropriately become known as Argens, from a river flowing right
through its centre. It is a mountainous country, half of its area being covered
• Fig. 96.— Toulon.
Scale 1 : 128,000.
6-55'E.of Or.
■ 2 Miles.
with forests. The most flourishing towns lie on the coast, but those in the interior
likewise manufacture cloth, felt, paper, and earthenware,
Toulon (61,382 inhabitants) enjoys the double advantage of having an excel-
lent port and of lying on the high-road connecting France with Italy. The
excellent shelter afforded by its port has caused Toulon to be chosen as the
great naval station of France in the Mediterranean. The arsenal and dock-
yards, begun by Vauban in the seventeenth century, cover an area of 667
acres, and have cost no less than £6,400,000, although much of the work was per-
TOULON.
181
formed by convicts. Forts occupy every point of vantage, and render Toulon one
of the strongest fortresses in Europe. In commerce and industry, however, it
ranks very low, in spite of its excellent harbour, on the western side of which are
Fig. 97.— Hyekes.
Scale 1 : lOO.UOO.
^av, v ■ jn-ERKS
Badci^b Ja Badnie
. -r v*
flv^mhuuH,'
fi^lm' E . of *-i
^
o-S
3i
ci::j
2 7 ~X5
■ 1 Mile.
Ovtr SS FaihomM
the busy ship-yards of Ln Seyne (8,15'2 inhabitants), employing several thou-
sand workmen. <SV. Nazaiir (l,5;i7 inhabitants) and Bandok, to the west of Cap
Sepet, may be looked upon as outposts of Toulon : they export agricultural
182
FRANCE.
produce, and at the former of these villages there is a tunny fishery. Every town,
like every individual, appears to have its destiny. Toulon became a place
of war, but failed to attract visitors like its neighbours, Nice, Cannes, and
Mentone, although its climate is equally delightful and its environs abound in
picturesque sites.
Hyhrs (6,797 inhabitants), up to the fourteenth century, was more important
than its neighbour Toulon. The river Gapeau facilitates communication between
its fine roadstead and the fertile fields of Ctiers (3,683 inhabitants) and Sollies-
Pont ('2,239 inhabitants). It was formerly a favourite winter residence, but being
separated from the sea by salt marshes, and exposed to the mistral, it is now some-
what neglected in favour of its rivals of the Alpes-Maritimes. The gardens sur-
rounding the town produce peaches, almonds, and a great variety of exotic plants.
Fig. 98.— The C4ulf of St. Tropez.
Scale 1 : 15J.000.
S Fathoms JfPaUwms^ i7Falhi>ttu SSFalhoms.
_^.^_^^.^__— 2 Miles.
A few palm-frees flourish, and early vegetables are exported. As to the pic-
turesque islands of Hyeres — PorqueroUes, Port-Cros, and Le Titan — they support
onlj' a few inhabitants, and are scarcely ever visited.
St. Tropez (3,236 inhabitants) occupies a delightful spot near the eastern
termination of the mountains of the Moors. It exports timber, cork, and chestnuts,
supplied by the villages in its vicinity, amongst which Garde-Frdnet (1,947 inha-
bitants) enjoys some reputation as having been one of the great strongholds of the
iloors or Saracens.
The valley of the Argens, to the north of the mountains of the Moors, affords
the easiest communication between the east and west of Provence. Since the
terrible day on which the Teutonic hosts, about to cross over from the valley of
the Arc, were annihilated at Pourrieres, that valley has frequently been traversed
by armies. St. Maximin (3,150 inhabitants), near its head, is the point of con-
FEEJUS.
188
vergeuce of many roads, and the relics in its fine Gothic church formerly attracted
numerous visitors. Brignollcs (5,164 inhabitants), farther east, has tan-yards, silk-
twist factories, distilleries, and brick-kilns. Le Luc (3,148 inhabitants) and
Vidonboii (2,415 inhabitants), on the railway, are flourishing market towns.
Lorgues (3,030 inhabitants), embosomed in elms, has cloth factories, and at Drn-
(juicjiKin (8,029 inhabitants), the capital of the department, there are numerous
factories, the motive power being furnished by the Nartuby, a tributary of the
Fig. 99.— Nick.
Argens. The town itself is void of curiosities, but its neiglibourhood abounds
in picturesque sites.
FrejuH (2,791 inhabitants), the Roman Foro Juliensis, near the mouth of the
Argens, is a decayed town. lis famous port, which sheltered the fleet of Actium,
is now dry land, and the town has never been able to recover from the disasters
of war which have overtaken it. Close by, on a hill, there are Roman ruins,
which testify to its former importance, and the aqueduct which conveyed
hither the water of the Siagnole is the most considerable ruin of that class in all
France.
134 FEANCB.
Alpes-Makitimes. — The greater portion of this department was ceded by Italy
in 1860. French is spoken in the valleys of the Var and Tinee, Italian in the
basin of the Roya and as far as Nice, whilst the local dialect of that town is a
curious iumble of Provenfal French and Italian. The entertainment of visitors
is the great business of the department. Oil, wine, fruits, and scents are exported,
but upon the whole agriculture is in a very backward state.
Nice (Nizza, 46,683 inhabitants), the " Victorious," founded by the Phocians
of Marseilles in commemoration of a victory won over the Liguriaiis, is one of the
most characteristic cities of France. On a high, rocky eminence, an ancient island
now attached to the continent, may still be seen the remains of the walls of
what was formerly one of the strongest fortresses on the Mediterranean seaboard.
One quarter of the town lies in the plain to the east of that rock, but the veritable
Nice lies to the west of it, being bounded by the torrent of the Paillon, beyond
which extend the modern suburbs, with wide streets intersecting each other
at right angles. Numerous villas peep out from the verdure-clad slopes of the
surrounding hills, and cover the terrace of Cimies, upon which stood the Roman
town of Cemenelum. The climate of Nice has been extolled in all ages. The
mountains in the north shelter it against cold winds, and the temperature only
rarely descends below freezing point. At the same time Nice is exposed to violent
gusts of wind. In early spring the mistral whirls up clouds of dust ; the damp
sirocco, blowing from the south-east, produces a feeling of languor; and the
westerly winds formerly carried thither the miasmata bred in the swamps of the
Lower Var. Since these have been drained this wind has lost its danger, besides
which the plantations of eucalyptus and other trees now form a screen around the
town, which up to the beginning of last century was frequently invaded by the pest.
As we journey along the coast to the east of Nice the country becomes more
and more picturesque. Crossing the promontory bounding the Bay of Nice, we
descend to the fine roadstead of VUlcfranche (Villa Franca, ],93;5 inhabitants),
where, sheltered by the encircling cliffs, exotic plants luxuriate. We traverse the
olive groves of Beaulieu, pass through numerous railway tunnels, and reach
Mou'ico (1,200 inhabitants), perched on an isolated rock at the foot of the cliffs of
La Turbie. This, too, is an old Greek colony dedicated to Hercules. The sove-
reign rights of its prince have been respected, and he has availed himself of them
to establish a gambling hell in the delightful grounds of Monte Carlo. Roque-
hrnne is merely a village ; but Meiifoiw (6,891 inhabitants) is a town of importance,
and the rival of Nice, the " pearl of France." Lemons, oranges, and other exotic
plants grow near the shore, olives on the slopes of the hills, and pines on the
mountains which shelter the town in the north. Its houses are dotted over the
hills, and are frequently accessible only by stairs ; its climate is mild and equable.
To the east of Mentone, on Italian soil, are the famous caverns of BaouHse-Rousse,
in which human skeletons and stone and bone implements iuive been discovered.
To the west of Nice there are other favourite winter resorts. At Aiitibes (5,546
inhabitants), an old fortress, the charming promontory of La Garouppe projects
into the Mediterranean, and beyond it opens the small Bay of Juuan, where
CANNES.
185
Napoleon landed after his escape from Elba. Vallmiris ('^,956 inhabitants), the
" golden vale," lies a short distance inland. Cannes (13,519 inhabitants) lies
beyond ; its hotels and houses extending to the river Siagne. It enjoys a mild
Fig. 100. — ViLLEFRANCHE.
Scale 1 : 44,400.
i !■»•
J°i2oE.of tr.
V.S,
S.
'F'
ij.SS.
oetr SS FaJUwmg.
1 Mile.
climate, and though its vegetation is less luxuriant than that of Nice, its serene
sky and distant horizons render it a most delightful residence. The isles of Lerins
lie off its bay, the largest of them, that of Ste. Marguerite, being famous on
account of its prison-fort, from which Marshal Bazaine effected bis escape, a.s the
186 FRANCE.
"Iron Mask " had done before him. On St. Honorat are the ruins of a monas-
tery which was destroyed by the Moors in 725. Cannes, in spite of its shallow
harbour, is next to Nice the busiest seaport of French Liguria. It is the port of
Grafsse (9,673 inhabitants), lying about 10 miles inland, the vicinity of which
produces the best olives of Provence, besides roses, jasmines, and other flowers.
The manufacture of perfumery and liqueurs has one of its great centres at Grasse.
Fig. 101. — Thb Cavehnb of Baouss6-Eoi'ss£.
These seaside towns of the Alpes-Maritimes possess immense advantages as
summer resorts, and might be converted into sanatoria for the whole of France.
They are supplemented by mountain villages, such as St. Martin- Lanfosque
(1,95G inhabitants), Roquebilliere, and others, within easy reach of the coast, and
admirably suited for summer stations
VAUCLiiSE, though lying inland to the north of the Rhone delta, is essentially
one of the Mediterranean departments of France. Its western half consists of an
AVIGNON.
187
alluvial plain intersected by numerous canals, very productive, and abounding in
industrious towns.
Avignon (33,189 inhabitants), at the confluence of the Durance and Rhone,
was a prosperous town in the time of the Romans, and as an independent common-
wealth it ranked amongst the first cities of the south during the twelfth century.
The religious wars of the thirteenth century destroyed its wealth. Between 1309
and 1376 it was the residence of the popes, and from that epoch in its history date
its most striking buildings, its turreted walls, its cathedral, and its fortress-like
palace on the rock of the Doms, or " lords." From that rock we look down upon
the verdant plain, with its plantations of olive and mulberry trees, its towns and
villages, and upon the swiftly flowing waters of the Rhone, spanned here by a
Fig. 102.— BAorssfi-Rouss*.
According to M. Rtviere. Scale 1 : 3,000.
CD EarlX.
E3 Ear-lhy SlojvU
J AocAy Slojits
I CccDtrns
I Hont Brccaay
e BeartKt
^» Raiiroiut
I I hasty cJ qrand^ Rochj
lOOVauls.
suspension bridge, which replaces an old stone bridge built by the "Devil and
St. Benezet" in 1188, but destroyed by a great flood in 1669. Avignon remained
the property of the Pope until the great Revolution ; but though it abounded in
monasteries, grass grew in its streets, and industry was a stranger to it. But
since it has belonged to France it has become one of the busiest towns of the
south — spinning the silk grown in the neighbourhood, manufacturing agricultural
machinery, and colours from madder, and extending its commerce to the highest
valleys of the Alps. The department has not only suffered much from the invasion
of the phylloxera and the disease of silkworms, but its cultivation of madder is
jeopardised through the invention of aniline colours.
The towns and villages lying at the foot of the Leberon and of the hills of
46
138
FRANCE.
Vaucluse are surrounded by verdant fields. CavaiUon (3,906 inhabitants) is
environed by gardens irrigated by canals derived from the Calavon and the
Durance. L'lsle (3,795 inhabitants) and Thor (1,667 inhabitants) are supplied
with water from the fountain of Vaucluse ; Pernes (2,801 inhabitants), Monteux
(2,262 inhabitants), and Carpentras (8,127 inhabitants), have likewise their canals
of irrigation. The latter, though proverbially a dull provincial town, is in reality
Fii;. 103.- Cannes and thf Islfs of LSkins.
Scale 1 : 60,000.
F. of r..ri-.
EcheDe de 1:60000
o 5.
i Kil
2j-i!>o, OveriS'oIcUhoms.
— 1 MUe.
a bustling place, supporting a library and museum, and proud of its Roman
triumphal arch, its modern town-hall, and its aqueducts.
Orange (6,782 inhabitants), the ancient Arausio, and formerly the capital of a
county, is the rival of Carpentras in trade and industry, and boasts a Roman
amphitheatre and a triumphal arch, which are amongst the finest ruins of that
kind ia France. Vaison (3,330 inhabitants) lias a Roman bridge over the Ouveze,
HAUTES-ALPES.
139
and is partly built with tlie stones of Gallo-Roman buildings. Jlahiucene (1,610
iuhabitants) has a Roman aqueduct; BoUtne (3,168 inhabitants) has potteries,
and Valreas (4,705 inhabitants) carries on a considerable trade in raw silk. Both
these towns are surrounded by old walls. Pertuis (4,905 inhabitants), thus called
because of its situation near the gorge, or pertuis, of the Durance, has a few
factories, but the mountain region beyond it is very thinly inhabited. Ajd (4,278
inhabitants), the only town in the mountains, has sulphur mines and pits of plastic
cla}', from which its potteries are supplied.
Hautes-Alpes. — The two departments on the Upper Durance constitute the
Fig. 104. — AVIONOX AND THE PaLACE OF THE PoPFS.
poorest and most desolate district of France. Hautes-Alpcs, though enjoying the
advantage of more extensive forests and pasture grounds than its neighbour
Basses- Alpes, ranks, nevertheless, very low as to its agricultural produce; and it^
resources not being sufficient to support its population, many of the inhabitants
annually descend to the plains in search of work.
Briangon (2,321 inhabitants) defends, with its seven forts, the road over the
Mont Gen^vre, and is the most inhospitable garrison town in France. Descending
the Durance, we pass the mountain fort of Mont Dauphin and Embrtin (3,287 inha-
140
FRANCE.
bitants), likewise a fortress, the most prominent building ^vitbiu wliich is a prison.
Gap (7,249 inhabitautsj, the only large town of the department, and its capital,
lies about 6 miles to the north of the Durance. The ores and marbles which
abound near it have not hitherto been worked.
Basses- Ai.PES is a country of naked mountains, lying almost completely within
the basin of the Durance. It is the least-populated department of France, but by
planting forests its resources might be considerably developed.
Barcelonnette (1,921 inhabitants), on the Ubaye, and at the foot of the Col de
Fig. 105. — Col de Larche.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
Larche or of Argentiere, is the chief town of the most elevated arrondissement, but
otherwise insignificant. Sideron (3,768 inhabitants), lower down on the Durance,
is a picturesque town, with an old citadel. Manosque (5,162 inhabitants) enjoys a
southern climate, carries on a considerable trade in wine, oil, and fruits, works a
coal mine, and has several manufactories. It is the most important town of the
department, superior by far to Forcalquier (1,816 inhabitants), the capital of the
arrondissement within which it lies, and even to Digne (5,540 inhabitants), the
departmental capital. This latter lies on a winter torrent, the Bleonne, 2,098 feet
deOme.
Ul
above the sea, but nevertheless produces excellent fruits, which its confectioners
convert into confitures. There are likewise efficacious sulphur springs.
Colmars and Castellanne, on the Verdon, are of no importance whatever. At
Riez (Colonia Augusta Reiorum, 2,370 inhabitants) and at Valensoles (2,182 inha-
bitants), both on tributaries of that river, and at Greoulx, near its mouth, Roman
ruins have been discovered, and at the latter there are sulphur springs.
Fij-. lOi;.— SWTEBON.
Drome* has been cut out of ancient Dauphin^, and is named after a river that
flows through it towards the Rhone, which forms its western boundary. Its
climate and productions are similar to those of Ardeche, on the other side of the
Rhone ; but Drome is the more mountainous of the two.
NyoiiH (2,462 inhabitants), the capital of the southern arrondissement, lies at
the mouth of a gorge, from which a cold wind, known as pontias, blows every
* Scipion Gras, " Statisliquo minerale de la Drdme."
142 FfiAlNCE.
night. Its olive-trees perished in the cold winter of 1829, and the vineyards then
planted have recently been attacked by the phylloxera, which has likewise invaded
the lowland district of Tricastin, of which S(. Paul (1,657 inhabitants) is the
capital.
Montelmar (9,512 inhabitants), at the confluence of Jabron and Roubion, and
not far from the Rhone, carries on a brisk trade in agricultural productions and
the manufactures of the Protestant town of Dieii-le-Fit (3,072 inhabitants), on the
Upper Jabon. To the south-west of it, on the Lez, rises the sumptuous castle of
Gri(jnan, known as the residence of Madame de Sevigne.
Cre»t (4,848 inhabitants) is the most important town on ihe Drome. Its old
castle has frequently seen Protestants and political offenders within its walls. Die
(3,427 inhabitants), higher up the river, carried on considerable industry before
the revocation of the Edict of Nantes.
Litron (1,874 inhabitants) and Loriol (2,181 inhabitants), at the mouth of the
river, are indebted for their prosperity to the railway.
Valence (20,476 inhabitants) maintained its municipal liberties until the thir-
teenth century, and with its suburb, Bourg-les-Vaknce (2,574 inhabitants), is now
the seat of a considerable textile industry. Chaheuil (1,300 inhabitants), near
it, has likewise a few factories, but Romans (11,024 inhabitants), on the Isere, and
its suburb, Bourg-dc-Peage (4,151 inhabitants), are at present the great industrial
centre of the department, where cloth, silks, cottons, felt, and leather are being
manufactured.
Tain (2,381 inhabitants), on the Rhone, lies close to the granitic hill which
yields the famous "Ermitage," and an acre of which is worth £1,000. St. Vallier
(3,035 inhabitants) and the railway junction of 8t. Ratnbert are in the extreme
north of the department.
Isere, named after its principal river, was formed out of the northern portion
of the Dauphine. It is essentially a mountain country, the soil capable of cultiva-
tion being confined to its western half, descending in terraces towards the Rlione.
About half the area of the department consists of cultivated land, one-fifth of
heaths and barren rocks, and nearly the same proportion of woods. The breeding
of cattle and manufacture of cheese are carried on extensively in its Alpine portion ;
there are coal and iron mines, and even gold mines were worked not long since.
Industry is increasing, and the paper-mills are the most important of France
(produce in 1873, 105,650 cwts.).
Allevard (2,015 inhabitants) is the onlj- town in the interior of the department,
and is indebted to its sulphur springs for the position it holds. Grenoble (43,054
inhabitants), at the confluence of the Isere and Drac, occupies the centre of a mag-
nificent amphitheatre of mountains. It is the focus of much intellectual activity,
with colleges, libraries, and museums, and the seat of a considerable industry,
the manufacture of gloves alone occupying 20,000 hands in the town and the
neighbouring villages.
Vizille (3,539 inhabitants), on the Romanche, has numerous factories, but is
better known in connection with the refusal of the delegates of the towns of
O
Q
(4
0.
-a
a
H
Q
2i
O
25
O
'Jn.,
V
IsfeRE.
143
Dauphine, in July, 1788, to paj- taxes not voted by Parliament. Boiirg-d'Oisans
(1,400 inhabitants), higher up on the Romanche, is the centre of one of the finest
Alpine districts of France. The monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, in the hills
to the north of Grenoble, is famous throughout the world for its liqueur.
Fig. 107.— Valence.
Scale 1 : 75.000.
■-•l^o i^-rar.
lUile.
At Voiron (7,909 inhabitants), to the north of the elbow of the Isere, as well as
at the neighbouring villages of Rires (1,471 inliabitants) and Ln Cote St. Andri
(3,496 inhabitants) there are numerous paper-mills, steel works, and tan-yards, and
most of the peasantry engage in linen-weaving. The towns on the Isere, Tullins
(3,398 inhabitants), Vina// (1,692 inhabitants), and St. Mareellin (2,839 inha-
144
FEANCE.
bitants), are indebted for tbeir prosperity to the fertile fields whicb surround
them.
Ficnne (22,950 inhabitants), on the Rhone, was a very important place in
Roman times, but had dwindled down to 11,000 inhabitants in 1789. Since then
the population has increased rapidly, and thousands find employment in the cloth
factories, silk-mills, paper-mills, foundries, glass works, and other industrial esta-
blishments which have sprung up here, being supplied with coal from the mines of
St. Etienne. A temple, a pyraTnid, several aqueducts still in a serviceable
condition, and other ruins recall the age of the Romans. Boiirgoin (4,309 inha-
bitants, inclusive of Janion), to the north-east of Vienue, manufactures cards for
Fig. 108. — Grenodle.
Scale 1 : 60,000.
E. olGr.
t Mile.
combing flax and other articles. Near it are productive turf pits. La Tour-du-
Pin (2,731 inhabitants) is remarkable only as the capital of an arrondissement.
Savoie (Savoy). — This dejmrtment only includes a portion of the old duchy of
Savoy, ceded in 1860 to France. It consists of three geographical regions, viz.
Savoy proper, including Chambery and the Lake of Bourget ; the Tarentaise, or
valley of the Upper Isere ; and the Maurienne, or valley of the Arc. Only aboul
one-third of its area is under cultivation, but fine pasture grounds extend from the
valleys up to the barren rocks and snow-fields. Agriculture and cattle-breeding
are the principal occupations. There are a little industry and much traffic, pro-
duced by the international tunnel of Mont Cenis, but the country is nevertheless
SAVOY.
14S
incapable of supporting its population, and thousands of Savoyards annually
leave their mountain valleys in search of work, generally returning in winter with
their savings.
Chamhiry (16,486 inhabitants) is the only town worthy of the name. It boasts
of an academy and other scientific institutions, but to strangers its chief claim to
notice consists in its delightful environs. Silk-spinning is carried on there, and at
the neighbouring village of Cognin. At Chalks there is a mineral spring con-
taining iodine and bromine, but its fame is eclipsed by that of the thermal sulphur
springs at Air-len-BaiitH (2,689 inhabitants), on Lake Bourget.
Following the railway up the valleys of the Isere and the Arc, we pass
Fig. 109.— Passes over the Alps between the Gen^vrb and Col db Fbejus.
Boalel 4.S3,noo.
VISW. ofP.ri..
|6'35'\V. olGr
S Miles.
Mdntmilian, an old fortress ; St. Pierre-(fAlbirinij ; St. Jean, the capital of the
Maurienne (2,623 inhabitants) ; Modane (1,322 inhabitants), at the entrance to the
tunnel ; and LanH-le-Bounj, at the foot of the pass leading over Mont Cenis.
The Tarentaise is less sterile than the Maurienne, but the stature of its inha-
bitants is less than in any other part of Savoy, and they are supposed to be ^e
descendants of the Ceutrons, a southern tribe mentioned by ancient authors. The
principal towns are Albertrille (3,835 inhabitants) and Moutierx (1,946 inhabitants),
the latter with salt works yielding annually 3,500 cwts. of salt. Higher up, in the
fide valley of the Doron, are the sulphur springs of Brides, in the midst of mag-
nificent Alpine scenery.
146
FRANCE.
Haute-S.vvoie consists of several districts known by local names. The Oene-
vols includes that part of Savoy wliicli slopes down to the Rhone ; Faucignij com-
prehends the high Alps, traversed by the Arve, and dominated by Mont Blanc ;
while Chablau extends along the Lake of Geneva. Only one-half of the area of the
department consists of fields and pasture lands, but agriculture, the breeding of
cattle, the making of butter and cheese, and industrial pursuits suffice to support a
population more dense than that of France at large.
Thdnes (1,059 inhabitants) is the only town on the Fier which flows througli
Fig. no.— Thonon.
Scale I : 125,000.
;t°lioi: otatris
e" So'E of Or
2 Miles.
the southern portion of the department. Anncaj (10,360 inhabitants), the capital,
stands on the Thioux, a tributary of the Fier, and at the foot of the lake named
after it. It is an ancient city, carrying on the manufacture of textile fabrics, hats,
paper, and iron. Riimilhj (2,916 inhabitants), on another tributary of the Fier,
manufactures woollen stuffs ; and near Faverges (1,537 inhabitants^ there is a large
silk-mill belonging to a Lyons company. Formerly that place had iron and
copper works.
SAVOY. 147
There are no towns in the valley of the Arve. Chamonix (Charaouni, 491 inha-
bitants) is merely a village of hotels, and St. Gervais a huge bathing establishment.
At Sallanches (1,594 inhabitants) one of the finest views of Mont Blanc may be
enjoyed. At Clmes there is a school for watchmaking, and many of the inha-
bitants of Bonneville (1,842 inhabitants) and of St. Julien (1,250 inhabitants), the
latter in reality a suburb of Geneva, are engaged in watchmaking.
T/ionon (3,953 inhabitants), the capital of Chablais, occupies a magnificent site
on the banks of the Lake of Geneva, and to the west of the alluvial delta of the
Dranse. The castle of Ripaille is close to the town, whilst Erien (2,028 inha-
bitants), a favourite spa embosomed in woods of chestnut and walnut trees, lies to
the east of the Dranse. Still farther east the greyish cliffs of the Meillerie rise
boldly above the lake. Most of the houses are built of stone quarried there.
CHAPTER IV.
THE JURA AND THE BASIN OF THE SAONE.
Fkanche-Comte and Burgundy.
HE boundaries of this region of France are more or less conventional,
for though the parallel ridges of the Jura and the valley of the
Saone are well defined, there are also included in it several outlying
districts. The valley of the Saone is essentially a country of
transit. In the south it leads to the Rhone, which it joins at
Lyons ; in the north-west numerous passages through the Cote d'Or connect it
with the basin of the Seine ; in the north-east the gate of Belfort opens commu-
nication with the Rhine ; and intercourse with the Loire in the west meets with no
obstacles. The climate and vegetation of Northern and Southern France become
blended in this valley, and whilst the pine forests in the Jura are quite "northern
in their aspect, the bleached rocks of Cote d'Or, on the other side of the valley,
recall the foot-hills of the Cevennes and the Alps. Even the inhabitants, a mixture
of Celts, Ligurians, Romans, and Teutonic Burgundians, exhibit the strength and
earnestness of men of the north, in combination with the passionate temper of men
of the south.
The ranges of the Jura belong geologically to the same orographical system as
do certain mountain masses of the Dauphine and of Savoy. They at first extend in
a northerly direction, but by degrees curve round to the north-east, until they pass
over into Switzerland. The Jura, very unlike other mountain systems, consists of
a series of parallel ranges, rising from a platform sloping down towards the west
and north-west. Looked at from an elevation, they resemble a series of parallel
waves approaching a coast. Each of these ridges is intersected by one or more
transverse gorges, or clmes, and there are also coinheH, or valleys of erosion, at the
bottom of which lie sparkling lakes or rivulets.
The strata composing the Jura have been folded by exterior pressure, the ridges
being formed of anticlinal, the valleys of synclinal folds. Denudation, however,
has so much affected the surface of the country that out of one hundred and sixty
ridges there are but thirty the tops of which consi.st of Junissic limestone, this
having been carried away, exposing the lias and trias which underlie it. The
THE JURA AXD THE BASIN OF THE SAONE.
149
limestones of the Jura are rich in fossils, and even ancient atolls have been dis-
covered.
The Jura abounds in forests : that of Chaux, covering nearly 50,000 acres, lies
at the foot of the Jura, and consists principally of oaks and beeches. Firs cover
the superior slopes; and in the woods of Haute-Joux trunks 100 feet in height
and over 3 feet thick abound. The moisture of the sitmosphere, as well as the
calcareous nature of the soil, promotes the growth of grass and herbage, and
Fig. 111.— The Jira.
Scale 1 : &1.\000.
6°! 50
iOMilea.
cattle-breeding and the making of butter and cheese are carried on with much
profit. The cows of the same district always pasture together, and co-operation is
practised in the muking of cheese.
The numerous rivulets of the Jura supply motive power to a host of manufac-
tories, besides which the mountaineers engnge largely in sedentary industries, such
as watchmaking.
The emancipation of the peasantry during the French Revolution and the con-
struction of roads have wonderfully aided the material prosperity of the Jura.
150
FRANCE.
Not very long ago tliere existed no carriage roads at all, but at the present day no
less than three railroads and twenty carriage roads, soma of them misterpieces of
engineering, facilitate intercourse between the opposite slopes of the mount lins.*
Lakes and Rivers.
The lakes of the French Jura are much inferior to those of Switzerland, but
geologically they are full of interest. A few of them occupy the longitudinal
valleys ; others are bounded by the steep walls of the cluses, these being the most
picturesque ; others, again, occupy the combes referred to above.
Fig. 112— Thb Fokest of Chaux.
Scale 1 : 320,000.
J° I of Tar
3°U-fl E ofCo-
, 10 Miles.
The Ain is the most characteristic river of the Jura. Born of plenteous springs
issuing from mj'sterious caverns, the river winds through narrow defiles and
cluses, and frequently disappears between the masses of huge rocks which have
tumbled down from the surrouhding precipices. Being bounded for the most
part by two parallel ridges of the Jura, the Ain receives only a few tributaries, but
these, being the effluents of lakes, are more abundant than might be expected.
Amongst the tributaries are the emissary of the Lake of Chalin, the Bienne, and
the Oignon, rising in the Lake of Nantua. Of the numerous waterfalls of the
* Heights in the Jura: — Grande Colombier, .5,033 feet; Credo, S/AH feet; Reculet, .i.eii feet; Cret
de la Neige, d,657 feet; Pass of LaFaucille, 4,3.56 feet: Col des Verrieres, 3,084 feet.
LAKES OF THE JURA.
151
Ain that near the bridge of Poitte is one of the most considerable. It is o2
feet high, and its tumultuous waters supply the iron forges of La Suisse with
motive power. Champagnole is the only town in the narrow valley of the Ain,
which only widens out as it approaches the Rhone, near which the river winds
through the fertile and populous district of Valbonne, an ancient lake basin.
In most mountain countries the water-shed runs parallel with the mountain
ranges. Not so in the Jura, the ridges of which gradually decrease in height as
we travel north or south from the culminating summits on the frontier between
France and Switzerland. In the Jura the line which parts the waters flowing to
Fig. 11.3.— The Lake of St. Polnt.
Scale 1 : 115,791.
lilile.
the Mediterranean from those wending their way to the north runs transversely
across the whole system of ridges. Even the Doubs, which finally finds its way
to the Mediterranean, appears to have formerly flowed to the Rhine, and if a barrier
were to be placed across the defile of Ste. Ursanne it might possibly do so
again. Historically and geologically the Saone is the main artery of the valley of
the Rhone, and if its volume equalled that of the latter, its name would prevail
down to the Mediterranean. The Doubs, however, though spoken of as a tribu-
tary, is in reality the main branch of the Saone. It flows at first in a north-
westerly direction. Having traversed the Lake of St. Point, it enters the narrow
gorges of Pontarlier, where mills occupy every available spot. At the small Lake
152
FRANCE.
of Chailloxon the river reaches the Swiss froutier, which it follows for a consider-
able distance. It there gathers itself up, and then leaps over a precipice 89
feet in height, forming the famous Falls of the Doubs. The course of the river
Fig. 114.— The Lake of Chalin.
• Scale 1 : 83,000.
. 1 Wile.
is most erratic, but at length it turns abruptly to the west, piercing one chain
of the Jura after the other. Below St. Hippolyte the river turns to the north,
forcing itself a passage through the mountains of the Lomont, and approaching
Fig. HS.^The Lake.s of the Cluse of Nantua.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
E 01 Gr
W7r, "\ "f P.
1 Mile.
the gap of Bclfort, through which runs a canal connecting the Doubs with the
Rhine. Thenceforth the general course of the river is south-westerly until it joins
the Saone, but it winds about much, passing alternately between steep precipices
THE SAONE.
153
and over undulating valley plains. The course of the Loue, which is the principal
tributary of the Doubs, is almost equally erratic. At Pontarlier the Doubs in
summer was formerly swallowed up in sinks, and flowed underground. But the
mill-owners, who were much inconvenienced by this occasional disappearance, have
built walls around the mouths of these sink-holes, and the water power furnished
by the river is now available throughout the year.
Many of the tributaries of the Suone likewise flow for considerable distances
Fig. 116. — The Lower Valley op the Ain.
Scale 1 : 180,000.
, IMfle.
nnderground. Near Vesoul there are several rivulets of this kind. They reappear
again in the spring of Champdamoy, and when the subterranean channels are full
to repletion, a supplementary spring, about a mile higher, begins to flow.
The Saone rises in the chain of the Faucilles (" sickle mountains "), and having
received numerous tributaries from the Vosges and the plateau of Langres, it flows
47
154
FRANCE.
in a direction parallel to the hills which produce the famous wines of Burgundy.
The canal of Burgundy connects the Saoue with the Seine ; that of the Centre
with the Loire. The Saone, for 407 miles out of a total of 732, has a fall of only
5-67 inches a mile, and is therefore excellently suited for navigation. Below
Chalons it flows through the silted-up basin of an ancient lake, which towards the
close of the tertiary epoch extended from the foot of the Jura to the proraoutoiies
of Charollais and Beaujolais.
To the east of the Lower Saone lies the remarkable clayey plateau of the
Dombes, abounding in cavities filled with stagnant pools, and surmounted by a
few isolated hillocks locally known as poipes, or paps. Most of these pools are
of recent origin, for in the fourteenth century the greater portion of the country
was under cultivation. But feudal wars led to the desertion of entire villages, the
Fig. 117. — The Gueat Defile (Percek) of the Dodbs.
Scale 1 : 3,760,000.
channels of the rivulets became obstructed, and the stagnant waters occupied every
depression in the soil. Subsequently a peculiar system of rotation got into vogue,
which consisted in alternately inundating and draining the fields, which neverthe-
less yielded but poor harvests, whilst the fevers bred by the numerous swamps
annually decimated the population. At length, about a quarter of a century ago,
the reclamation of this forsaken part of France was taken in hand. A railway
and roads were constructed, and up to 1870 no less than half the swamps, or
25,000 acres, had been drained. The effect upon the health of the inhabitants
was almost immediate. The population in twenty years has increased 30 per
cent., and the mean age is now thirty-five years instead of twenty-five as before.
The Saoue, to the west of the plateau of the Dombes, continues its peaceable
course for some distance longer, and the peasants say with unconscious pride —
" From Villefranche to Anso— the fine.-t mile in France."
THE Sa5nE. 15b
But soon afterwards the progress of the river is stopped by a range of hills.
Fig. 118. — The Falls of the Doles.
Twisting about to the east, the Saone is swallowed up by the gorge of Rochetaill^e,
widened, it is suid, by Roman engineers, and finally joins the Rhone at Lyons.
156
FRANCE.
On an average the Saoiie disoharges 8,830 cubic feet every second, the discharge
of the Rhone at Lyons amounting to 23,000 cubic feet. The Saone is usually in
flood after the autumn and winter rains, whilst the Rhone, fed by the ice and
snow of Switzerland and Savoy, carries the greatest volume in summer, a circum-
stance most advantageous to the Lyonese.
Fig. 119— The Domhes in 1834.
Scale 1 : X60,000.
, -i Jlilta.
Inhabitants.
The men of the Jura arc the tallest of all France. The pure race of Franche-
Comte only exists on the Jurassic plateau, and is distinguished by a short trunk,
broad shoulders, long arms, and long legs. Families are numerous in the villages,
and emigration goes on steadily, Comtois being met with in every town of
France. Formerly, when Franche- Comte formed a part of the vast domains of
AIN. 157
Charles V., no less than 20,000 of them lived at Madrid, and at Rome they occu-
pied by themselves the so-called Burgundian quarter.
Powerful, silent, and circumspect, the mount-iineers of Franche-Comte have
at all times heen distinguished for their industry and their spirit of independence.
Uutil crushed by Louis XIV., wh6 conquered the country and converted its
peasants into serfs, they enjoyed the privileges of self-government, Franche-
Comte only became truly French through the Revolution, but since that time has
contributed more than its propsr share to the work achieved by the entire
nation.
Topography.
AiN. — This rectangular department, enclosed between the Rhone and Saone,
has been named after the river Ain, which runs through it from north to south.
It comprises a level region in the west, and a mountainous tract in the east. The
former includes the districts of Bresse and the Dombes, the latter abounding in
small lakes and marshes. The district of Bugey lies on the French slopes of the
Jura ; that of Gex beyond these mountains, to the north of Geneva. Agriculture,
cattle-breeding, and the manufacture of cheese are the leading occupations.
Gex (1,469 inhabitants) is but a small place, but to those who first behold it on
descending the Pass of Faucille it will for ever be identified with the marvellous
panorama of the Lake of Geneva. On that same route lies Ferney, associated with
Voltaire ; and to the north of it is Nironue, with its hydropathic establishments.
Tracing the narrow valley of the Rhone downwards from the Liike of Geneva,
we pass Collonges, the fort of L'JEcluse and Bellegarde (p. 89), and Sei/ssel, known
through its asphalt.
Belief/ (4,105 inhabitants), the old capital of Bugey, not being either on a
river or on a railway, is doomed to decay, whilst Amberieii (1,770 inhabitants), a
railway station at the mouth of the valley of the Albarine, St. Ramhert-de-Joux
(1,571 inhabitants), and Tenay (2,459 inhabitants), higher up in that valley, are
instinct with life. Naniua (2,940 inhabitants) is the onlj^ place of importance in
northern Bugey, and carries on some trade with the cheese of Valromey and the
lithographic stones of the Forest of Montreal.
Bourg (14,289 inhabitants), the old capital of Bresse, is actually the capital of
the entire department. The mausoleum of the Dukes of Savoy, built in the six-
teenth century, is its most remarkable building. Bourg is a busy mart for agri-
cultural produce. It was the birthplace of Lalande and Edgar Quinet, and Bichut
was born in a neighbouring village. Pont-de-Vnux (2,910 inhabitants), lower
down on the Reyssouze, the river of Bourg, is a small manufacturing town, the
inhabitants of which differ essentially from those of the surrounding country, and
are believed to be descended from Saracens. Tr^voux (2,217 inhabitants), the old
capital of Bresse, had its own Parliament formerly, as well as a mint, now repre-
sented by a few jewellers' shops, and is mentioned in the history of literature as
the place where the Jesuits printed their famous Dictionary and other works.
Salhonay (3,958 inhabitants) is a military camp rather than a village. It was
158
FRANCE.
here the battle of Lyons was fought in 197, which gave the dominion of the world
to Septimius Severus.
juKA. — This portion of the old Franche-Comte is occupied to the extent of one-
half by ridges of the Jura, but these are by no means the most elevated in France.
It is one of the wealthiest districts of the Jura. More than a third of its area is
covered with forests, and it has iron works and other industrial establishments.
Fig. 120. — The MouNTAms of Morez and St. CtAVDE.
Soiile 1 : 147,12.1.
2 Miles.
St. Claude (6,632 inhabitants) is a mountain town at the foot of the Pass of
La Faucille, the inhabitants of which depend on wood-carving and lapidary's
work for their existence, and export the cheese known as " Septmoncel," from a
village in the neighbourhood. The old abbey has disappeared, but on a plateau
to the north may still be traced the ruins of a Gallo-Roman city. Morez (5,375
DOUBS. 159
inhabitants), higher up in the same valley, depends solely upon its manufacture of
watches, jewellery, glasses for spectacles, &c.
Lom-k-Sannier (11,265 inhabitants), at the foot of the first terrace of the Jura,
exports the produce of its vineyards and gardens, wood and cheese procured from
the mountains, spectacles, articles in copper and iron, and textile fabrics manufac-
tured in the town. At Montmorot, close by, are brine springs yielding annually
nearly 10,000 tons of salt. Excellent building stones are quarried in the vicinity,
as also at St. Amour (1,911 inhabitants), half-way to Bourg-en-lJresse.
The terrace lying to the east of the cliffs bounding this terrace of the Jura
abounds in ancient remains. At Orgekt there are barrows and stone walls of
defence ; on the road thence to St. Claude a Roman bridge spans the Ain, and
pile dwellings have been discovered on the small Lake of Clairraiix. Voiteur and
Poligiiy (4,783 inhabitants) occupy sites analogous to that of Lons-le-Saunier,
and Poligny, like its more populous neighbour, has its vineyards, quarries,
and brine springs Arboi» (4,809 inhabitants) is noted for its wines, but the
best growths of the department are the white wines of Chateau-Chalons, below
Voiteur, and the red ones of the hills of Arsures, near Mouchard. Safins (5,577
inhabitants), in a mountain gorge and on the banks of a river, appropriately called
La Furieuse, is best known on account of its springs of brine, a portion of which
is conveyed to the salt works of Arc and Senans, In addition to wine, salt, and
cheese, Salins exports iron ore, plaster of Paris, lime, building stones, and timber.
At Champacjnoh (3,342 inhabitants), about 13 miles to the south, there are iron-
mills and manufactures of tools.
Dole (12,009 inhabitants), on the Doubs, occupies the extremity of a range of
hills, and commands an extensive plain. It was the old capital of Franche-Comt^,
the seat of a university and of a Parliament, and valiantly defended its ancient
liberties against the armies of Louis XI. It is in everj' respect a more important
place than Lons-le-Saunier, possessing not only libraries and museums, but also
numerous industrial establishments, including corn and saw mills, machine shops,
and manufactories of agricultural implements. On the Upper Doubs, at Raim and
Fraisans, there are important iron works.
Doubs. — Nearly the whole of this department drains into the Doubs. It is
essentially a mountain country, the inhabitants of which depend largely upon
watchmaking and other industries for their subsistence. Excellent " Gruyere "
is made in the upper valleys.
Potitarlier (5,163 inhabitants), the highest town on the Doubs, enjoyed its
municipal liberties until 1678. It is mainly indebted for its prosperity to its
trade with Switzerland, with which two lines of railway connect it. Near it, on a
precipitous rock, stands the fort of Joux, within the walls of which Toussaint-
Louverture, the negro patriot, perished from cold and misery. Mortenu, about
20 miles lower down, and near the famous FjIIs of the Doubs, is the centre of
French watchmaking, and a school has been established there to encourage this
important industry. The vicinity of this busy hive abounds in natural curiosities,
savage defiles, caverns, and waterfalls.
160
FRANCE.
Where the Doubs emerges from the gorges of the Jura the aspect of the coun-
try changes, and we enter upon a region of hills sloping down towards the great
gap of Belfort. All along the river, at Pont-de-Roide (2,363 inhabitants) and
Fi>. 1-21.— The Firpt Terrace of the Jura, between Lonsl^-Saunieu akb Salins.
ficnlp 1 : 2SIVnOO.
i; lip
^-^-^
3 -0
-^LE-SAULNIER^t
''r/r Chnlin **.'%
E.'" Gr.
5T.0'
Audincourt (4,258 inhabitants), factory succeeds to ftictory, until we reach MontM-
liard (7,625 inhabitants), the natural centre of this busy region, where textile
manufactures and watchmaking constitute the leading industries. Montbeliard,
up to the French Revolution, belonged to Wiirtemberg, and this circumstance
BESANCON.
161
accounts for its large Protestant population. The strong castle has been converted
into a prison, but the town, for ail that, has lost none of its ancient strategical
importance. A monument has been erected to Cuvier, the most famous of its sons.
Near it are ruins of a Roman city.
Below Montbeliard the Doubs enters a second defile, within which is situated
the small town of Bautne-les-Dames (2,497 inhabitants), thus named after a convent
occupied by ladies of noble birth, whose fare in Lent has passed into a proverb.
Btsan^on (42,808 inhabitants), the largest town in Franche-Comt(5, stands on
Fig. 122.— BE8AN90N.
Scale 1 : 45,000.
^■i^^jim^^
iHile.
one of those sites marked out by nature as a place of strength. A rock 410 feet
in height rises boldly from the narrow neck of the peninsula occupied by the town.
It is crowned by a citadel, and detached forts placed upon the surrounding hills
render Besan^on a formidable fortress even when attacked by modern artillery.
Amongst the public monuments of the town are a Roman gate, a cathedral, a
mansion built by Granvelle, the famous chancellor of Charles V., but now devoted
to the objects of the numerous scientific societies of the town. There are colleges,
a rich library, a gallery of paintings, and several museums. The town has ai all
162
FRANCE.
times been jealous of iU liberties, and only surrendered to Louis XIV. on his pro-
mising to maintain its municipal institutions. Victor Hugo, Charles Fourier, and
Proiidhon are natives of it. Watchmaking is the great industry of Besau9on :
in 1875 419,984 watches were manufactured there, and in the French Jura, and
only 2,050 in all the rest of France. But there are also important metallurgical
establishments, and iron forges are numerous on the Doubs and its tributary, the
Loue. At Miserey, to the north of the town, there are brine springs. Ontans
(3,033 inhabitants) on the Loue, is a manufacturing town, and the cherries
Fig. 123.— Bes.in^'on, as sees fuom La MoviLLkiiE.
grown in its orchards are converted into a favourite li(|ueur. Near it, in the pic-
turesque valley of the Lison, are the ruins of the Roman city of Alenia (Alaise),
where Caesar is believed to have finally overthrown the forces of the Gauls.
Belfort. — The gap between the Vosges and the Jura is defended by the
fortress of Belfort, which offered so valiunt a resist:ince to the German besiegers.
French is spoken in three out of the four cantons depending upon the town ;
German and French in the fourth, that of Delle. Belfort has lost somewhat of its
strategical importance since Metz has become a German fortress, but it still closes
one of the great gateways of France. Its citadel was built by Vauban, and other
HAUTE-SAONE.
163
fortifications of more recent date crown the surrounding heights. The only
remains of mediaeval works of defence are the " Citizens' Tower," in the town itself,
and the " Stone " of La Miotte, on the summit of a hill, occupied by one of the
modern forts. Military rule, as usual, has prevented the growth of industry, and
the only manufacturing place of the territory is Giromagiiy (3,058 inhabitants), on
the Upper Savoureuse, where there are cotton-mills.
Haute-Saone comprises nearly the whole of the upper bnsin of the Saone.
From the granitic " Ballons " of the Vosges the department slopes down towards
Fijf. 124. — BcLFOUT.
Scale 1 : 106,666.
flaoE.ofParii
6l5oE.«fCr
> 2 Miles.
the south-west. Nearly one-third of its area is wooded, and the villages are
embosomed in orchards. There are no large towns, but though agriculture is the
chief pur.suit, we. meet also with coal, iron, and salt mines, iron works, potteries,
and other industrial establishments.
HMcourt (3,402 inhabitants) is the only town in that portion of the department
which lies within the basin of the Doubs. It is mostly inhabited by Protestants
engaged in the cotton industr}'.
Lure (3,896 inhabitants), near the Ognon, the capital of the eastern arrondisse-
ment, is a place without importance, surpassed in industry by Ronchampa (1,895
164
FRANCE.
inhabitants) and Champagney (2,080 inhabitants), occupying a valley of the Vosges,
and surrounded by coal mines yielding 200,000 tons annually. Luxeuil (4,047
inhabitants), a famous watering-place, not yielding to Plombieres in the abun-
dance of its springs, lies to the north-west, in the midst of a delightful country.
Near it is Foityerolles (1,282 inhabitants), a large village embosomed in cherry
gardens.
Vesoul (9,097 inhabitants), the capital of the department, lies in the verdant
valley of the Durgeon, and being the junction of four railways, is a bustling place,
Fig. 125. — Belfoht, from the Fort La IIiotte.
though exceeded in that respect by its rival. Gray (7,34-5 inhabitants), which, in
addition to railway communications, possesses the advantage of lying upon a
navigable river, the Saone. Gray is a great corn market, and has numerous corn-
mills.
Cote-d'Or. — The department named after the range of hills producing the
famous wines of Burgundy is one of the most important countries of passage in
France, belonging partly to the basin of the Saone, and partly to those of the
Seine and the Loire. The whole of it formerly constituted a portion of the pro-
vince known as Burgundy (La Bourgogne), and consists geographically of several
cOte-d'or.
165
well-defined divisions. The granitic hills of the Morvan, with their woods, ponds,
and sparkling rivulets, form one of these. The plateau of the Auxois, farther east,
intersected by numerous deep river valleys, is another. The plateau of Langres
extends thence in the direction of the Vosges. It, too, is wooded, but the most
extensive forests are met with on the limestone plateau of Chatillonnais. The
most fertile region of the department lies to the east of the famous range known as
Cote-d'Or. The department, in addition to its wines, exports iron and marble.
On the Saone, which flows through the plain in the south-west of the depart-
ment, there are no large towns. Auxonne (4,964 inhabitants), an old fortress,
Fig: 126.— Vesoul.
Scale 1 : 50,000.
, Half a Mile.
carries on some trade in agricultural produce ; but 67. .Jemi-de-Lounc, at the
mouth of the canal of Bourgogne, and Semre (2,514 inhabitants), lower down,
exceed it in activity.
Dijon (45,607 inhabitants), the old capital of Burgundy, is most favourably
situated for commerce. The canal of Bourgogne connects it with the Saone and
the Seine, and it is the principal town on the road between Paris and Lyons. It
carries on a considerable trade in corn, possesses a variety of manufactures, and
its mustard, gingerbread, and sweetmeats enjoy a wide reputation. Dijon is one of
16G
FEANCE.
those provincial towns which have not taken Paris for their pattern. It has produced
many men of eminence — St. Bernard, Bossuet, Rameau, Guyton de Morveau,
Joutfroy, and Rude ; and its scientific establishments, its schools of art and music,
its libraries and museums, are amongst the most important of France. The old
Fig. 127. — The Wine District of Cote-u'Ou.
Scale 1 : 320,fX)0
HI .Miles.
ramparts have fallen, but there still remain many fine old churches and mansions,
which impart originality to the town. The old palace of the Dukes of Burgundy,
erected in the fifteenth century, is now used as a town-hall and museum, the
guard-chamber containing the tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless,
SAONE-ET-LOIEE, 167
and other works of art. In the old Charter- house are preserved the statues of the
prophets, the work of Claux Skitter, a sculptor of the fourteenth century. The
public park was laid out by Le Notre.
The famous white slopes of Cote-d'Or begin almost immediately to the south of
Dijon. In succession we pass here the hills of Charabertin, Chumbolle, and the
famous " clo8 " Vougeot. The best wines are produced on Oxford clay, and they
have undoubtedly influenced the temperament of the people who drink them. As
Stendhal says, " Logic alone does not suffice to make superior men ; a fiery tem-
perament, too, is requisite ; " and that temperament the wines of Burgundy are
supposed to give. Nuits (3,503 inhabitants) is the farthest point reached by the
Germans during the late war. In the monotonous plain to the east of it stands
the old abbey of Citeaux, upon which formerly depended three thousand convents
and monasteries, but which has been converted into an agricultural penitentiary.
Beaune (10,696 inhabitants), the second town of the department, the seat of a
Parliament before Dijon, and long its rival, is an interesting old town, with a
hospital built in the fifteenth century by Flemish workmen, and famous, too, on
account of its wines, Pommard, Volnay, Montrachet, and ileursault (2,550 inha-
bitants) being near it. Nolay (2,355 inhabitants), the birthplace of Carnot, is the
last place noted for its wines, for to the west of it hardly any vineyards arc met
with.
C/idtillon-sur- Seine (4,894 inhabitants), the principal town of the northern
arrondissement, was a place of some importance formerly, but its schools exist no
longer, and the manufacture of cloth is of very little note now. There exist, how-
ever, important iron works. One of these, near the village of Ste. Colombe, is
surmounted by Mont Lassois, upon which Gerard of lloussillon, one of the heroes of
romance, built himself a castle.
Commercially the valley of the Oze is far more important than that of the
Upper Seine, for the railway from Paris to Dijon runs along it, passing Mont Auxois,
upon the slope of which stands the village of Alise Ste. Reine, which has been
identified with Alesia, where Vercingetorix offered his final resistance to the legions
of Caesar. A colossal statue of the Gallic chief has been erected here, although the
learned are by no means agreed as to the site of ancient Alesia. In a side valley
close by, near the village of BusHij-le-Grand, there is a famous castle. Soon after
the Brenne and the canal of Bourgogne join from the south. At Montbard (2,427
inhabitants) the mansion in which Bufibn was bom is pointed out. Below Mont-
bard the Brenne joins the Arnian9on, and proceeding up the valley of the latter,
we reach Semiir (4,022 inhabitants), a curious old town, with a castle perched
upon a rock of granite, and an ancient Gothic church. Suulieu (3,113 inhabitants),
the ancient Sidolocus, farther south, lies upon the granitic plateau of Morvan. It
exports timber, cattle, and wine casks.
Sa6ne-et- Loire. — This department lies partly between the two navigable
rivers after which it has been named. The plain to the east of the Saone is a
continuation of that of La Bresse, and ascends gently towards the foot of the Jura.
A more varied country lies to the west of the Saone, being bounded by the hills of
168
FRANCE.
Autunais and Charollais, which form the water- shed between the Atlantic and the
Mediterranean. The wooded mountains of Morvan rise to the west of Autun, and
the valleys of Brionnuis, sloping down to the Loire, are occupied by magnificent
meadows. The department ranks high as an agricultural country, and the coal
mines around Autun have led to the creation of flourishing manufactures.
Louham (3,498 inhabitants) is the only town to the east of the Saone, the
great centres of population having sprung into existence on the banks of that
navigable river. Chalom-snr-Sadne (20,571 inhabitants) is the most important
Fig. 128.— Le Ckeusot.
Scale 1 : 23,000.
2°16B.orP.-u-iK
He If a JIUe.
town of the entire department historically, and only cedes in population to the
modern upstart, Le Creusot. Formerly a great river port, and a station of a
Roman admiriil, it is now a most important railway centre, and exports corn, iron,
and wines. There are ship-yards, and barrels in large numbers are made. Chagny
(3,950 inhabitants), on the Canal du Centre, which joins it to Chalons, has recently
developed into a busy place of traffic.
Travelling down the Saone, we pass Tonniim (4,412 inliabitanls), the birthplace
of Greuze, and reach Mucoii (16,579 inhabitants), the capital of the department.
In the upper town, formerly inhabited by priests and nobles, Lamartine was born.
LE CEEUSOT.
169
In the lower town there are manufactories and huge wine vaults, in which the
famous growths of Thorinn and Romaneche are stored. St. Laurent, a suburb
on the other side of the river, is famous on account of its fairs. The country
around M&con abounds in places of interest. Arcbteologists will seek out the
village of SoluM, where the fossil skeletons of a hundred thousand horses have been
discovered. The castles of Montceau-les-Mincs (4,375 inhabitants), Milhj, and
iS^ Point allure the admirers of Lamartine's poetry, whilst the famous abbey
of Clnny (4,007 inhabitants) must ever attract historians and artists.
Autun (11,358 inhabitants), in the north-western angle of the department, the
Augustodunum of the Romans, has fallen from its high estate, and its buildings
now hardly cover two-thirds of the area enclosed by its ancient walls. Its Roman
ruins are of small importance, some of the most interesting amongst them having
been utilised in the construction of modern buildings. The Middle Ages are
represented by the fine church of St. Lazarus, with one of the best pictures of
Fig. 129 — Le Ckeuhot.
Ingres. Mont Beuvray (2,660 feet), one of the highest summits of the Morvan,
rises about 12 miles to the west of Autun. Upon its summit may be seen
the remains of an ancient city, identified with the Bibructe of the Romans
but evidently of much older date, as is proved by cromlechs and entrenchments.
Annuallj' in May a fair is held on the summit of this mountain.
The country to the west of Autun is purely agricultural, but to the east of
that town lies one of the great manufacturing centres of France. At Epimic
(1,670 inhabitants) there are coal mines, yielding annually about 150,000 ton.«,
and bottle works. Courhrx-leit-MincH (1,597 inhabitants) produces iron, lime, and
gypsum; but the great centre of industry lies still farther south, near the old
Charbonniere. This is Le Cnmot (26,432 inhabitants). A cannon foundry,
glass works, and iron works existed there at the close of last century, but it is only
since 1837 that the place has rapidly growji into importance. Its coal mines now
extend to a depth of 1,390 feet, and their produce is utilised in innumerable iron
48
170
FRANCE.
works, forges, and locomotive workshops, a considerable portion of the iron ore and
coal consumed being imported from abroad. Other places to the south of Le
Creusot participate in its industrial prosperity. Moiitchaniii-les-Mines (3,334
inhabitants) has vast brick-kilns. Blanz;/ (1,886 inhabitants) has the most
productive coal mines of the district. Montceaii (4,375 inhabitants) has iron
mines.
Charo/ks (?,969 inhabitants), a sleepy town, is the capital of CharoUais. That
district, as well as Brionnais, adjoining it on the south-west, is engaged in the
Fig. 130.— LvoNB.
Scale 1 : 80,nno.
fattening of cattle. Chauffailles ( 1 ,993 inhabitants), in that part of the country, is
becoming of importance on account of its coal mines. Digoin (2,721 inhabitants),
on the Loire, carries on a considerable commerce. Bourhon-Lancy (1,604 inhabit-
ants) has been noted from immemorial times for its saline springs. Paroy-Je-Monial
(2,895 inhabitants) has an abbey modelled after that of Cluny, and has recently
become known through the visions of Marie Alacoque, which led to the " worship
of the Sacred Heart." *
• In 1S74 the dfpartment (iroduced 1,110,000 tons of coal. Le Creusot. in 1872, employed 15,500
persons, and produced 330,000 tons of iron and sttel, 308 locomotives, &c., valued at £6J0,0j0.
LYONS. 171
Rhone. — This department includes the slopes of the hills of Lyonnais and
Beaujolais (3,320 feet), and is bounded by the rivers Saoiie and Rhone on the east.
It is one of the smallest departments of France, but owing to its industry, the
great centre of which is Lyons, one of the wealthiest.
Lyons, or Lyon, as it is called by the French (322,6r2 inhabitants), occupies a
most favourable position at the confluence of the Saone and Rhone, and is marked
out as a natural intermediary between north and south. The surrounding heights
ofler excellent sites for forts. The great advantages of Lyons have been recognised
from the earliest times. L. Munatius Phincus planted a Roman colony upon the
height overlooking the confluence of the two rivers ; and Lugduveiisis is spoken of
by Strabo as the " heart of Gaul." It remains to this day the primatial city of all
France, and the wealthiest society for propagating the Catholic faith has its seat
there. The force of tradition still exhibits itself in the veneration with which
the Lyonese regard the hill of Fourvieres and its old church, built upon the site
of the old Forum {Fore vieux) of the Romans. Another church, that of Ainay in
the lower town, is partly constructed from the materials of the temple which sixty
tribes of Gaul constructed in honour of Augustus.
The lowest quarter of the existing city, that of Perrache, only dates from the
last century, and bears the name of the engineer who converted its site into dry
land. It sufiers more from floods than any other part of the town, and the fogs
are densest there. In it are situated the arsenal, a huge goods station, gas works,
and the docks for vessels navigating the Saone. Every one of the other quarters
of the town has a distinctive character. The centre of the town, around Place
Bellecour, is the seat of wealth and luxury. The business quarter lies at the foot
of the hill of La Croix-Rousse, itself occupied by the dwellings of the workmen.
Brotteaux, to the east of the Rhone, is inhabited by clerks and tradesmen, and
adjoins the beautiful park of T^te-d'Or. La Guillotiere, to the south of it, is a
workmen's quarter. Vaise, beyond the Rhone, abounds in manufactories. Suburbs
extend in all directions. The traces still existing of the dominion of the Romans
are limited to the remains of three aqueducts, baths, amphitheatres, and other
structures. The Palace of Arts, one of the most sumptuous buildings of modern
Lyons, abounds not only in Roman antiquities, but contains likewise a valuable
collection of paintings, a library of 70,000 volumes, and a natural history collec-
tion. The busts of celebrated men born in the town, including those of Ampere,
Bernard de Jussieu, Flandrin, Delorme, and others, have been placed within it.
The Exchange and Merchants' Hall contains an industrial museum modelled upon
that of South Kensington. Public monuments abound. Science is represented by
colleges and schools, by a public library of 180,000 volumes, and by numerous
societies, including one of agriculture, which possesses a model farm on the heiglits
of Ecully.
Lyons is one of the great industrial centres of the world. There are machine
shops, chemical works, and manufactories of paper-hangings ; but the town is most
famous for its silks. The latter industry was introduced by Italians, whom
Louis XI. encouraged to settle in the town. The revocation of the Edict of
172
FRANCE.
Nantes threatened destruction to this industry, but it survived the blow then
inflicted, and, in spite of wars and revolutions, Lyons has maintained its pre-
eminent position. In 1872 there were 120,000 looms in the department, 240,000
persons were employed in the silk industry, and the average value of silk stuffs
produced annually is estimated at nearly £20,000,000 sterling. Most of the
weavers work at their own homos, and their demeanour and character differ very
favourably from those of ordinary factory hands. At the same time the solitary
Fig. 131. — The Environs of Lyons.
Scale 3:ju,ooo
in Miles.
life which most of them lead nourishes a sjj'rit of mystical exaltation which rises
to the surface whenever there is a revolution.
Formerly nearly all the weavers lived in the tovv'n, but the manufacturers,
desirous of weakening their unions and of obtaining cheaper labour, have trans-
planted the silk industry to most of the neighbouring towns and villages. Villeur-
hanne (8,163 inhabitants), Venissieux (1,943 inhabitants), Ste. Foy (4,337 inha-
biVants), Oullitis (4,886 inhabitants), St. Gents (2,246 inhabitants), Caluire et Ctdre
(7,207 inhabitants), and Neuvilk (3,207 inhabitants) are inhabited to a large
LYONS. 178
extent bj' weavers. Nay, the great industry of Lyons extends far bej'ond the
limits of the department, for the looms of Chambery, in Savoy, work on account
of Lyonese houses.
L'Arhresle (3,091 inhabitants), to the west of the hills of Lyons, has quarries,
lime works, and, at St. Bel, almost inexhaustible deposits of pyrites, which supply
nearly all France with the material required for the manufacture of sulphur and
sulphuric acid. The village of ClunHy-les-Mines, close by, was formerly important
on account of its copper mines. Tarare (13,563 inhabitants), on the railway to
Roanne, enjoys a high reputation for its muslins and embroidery, its plush and
velvets. Amplcpim (4,047 inhabitants), Thizy (3,179 inhabitants), and Cours
(3,897 inhabitants), near it, are likewise manufacturing places.
Beavjeu (3,043 inhabitants), which gives its name to the district of Beaujolais,
Villrfranche (11,994 inhabitants), and Belleville (2,691 inhabitants), have some
manufactures, but agricultural pursuits predominate in that portion of the depart-
ment. The wines of Beaujolais enjoy a high reputation, the most famous growths
being produced on porphyritic granite.
Givors (10,856 inhabitants), on the Rhone, to the south of Lyons, is a dependency
of St. Etienne rather than of the city just named. Its iron works, glass works,
and brick-kilns are supplied with fuel from the neighbouring coal mines. The
famous wine known as Cote-Rotie grows on the slopes of sunburnt Mont Pila,
close by.
CHAPTER V.
THE PLATEAU OF CENTRAL FRANCE.
GtVADDAN, VeLAY, AuVEBONE, EoUEBOUE, LiMOUSIN, P^HIOOKD, MaRCHE, BOURBONNAIS*
The Cevennes.
HE granitic protuberance in the centre of France, whence the rivers
radiate towards the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, has not inaptly-
been called a " pole of divergence," from which the people emigrate
in all directions, and more especially towards the basin of the Seine,
within which lies the "pole of attraction." The plateau under
consideration covers an area of 3 1 ,000 square miles, and interposes a barrier 190
miles in length between the north and south of France. Its heights had to be
scaled before the people dwelling on its opposite slopes became one, and although
this national fusion was not accomplished without wars and bloodshed, it led in
the end to the common enjoyment of the blessings of civilisation.
The plateau, as a whole, slopes down gently towards the north-west, and is
bounded in the south and east by steep mountains. The Cevennes constitute the
most important portion of the semicircular chain of mountains which envelop the
plateau on the south-east, and form the water-shed between the Mediterranean and
the Atlantic. They begin with the Montagne Noir (" black mountain," 3,970 feet),
to the east of the gap of Revel, through which runs the railway connecting Castel-
naudary with Castres. The valley of the There, tributary to the Tarn, separates
these Black Mountains from the mountain rampart of Espinouze (4,198, feet),
rising almost precipitously above the valleys of the Jaur and Orb, but sloping
down gently towards the north-west. In the east this portion of the Cevennes
terminates in a savage mountain mass, wliere granites and sedimentary strata
intermingle in strange confusion, and which has been pierced in several places by
volcanic eruptions. It almost appears as if a subterranean lake of lava extended
in former times from the dome-shaped mountain of Auvergne to the shore of the
Mediterranean ; that is, along a line where the contrasts between north and south
are most striking. On one slope of the mountains we have rivulets, meadows, and
• foulett Scrope, "Volcanoes of Central France;" Rames, " Geosenie du Cantal;" A. Julb'en,
" Des Ph6nom6ne8 Glaciaire dans le Plateau Central de la France ; " Burat, " Geologie de la France."
THE CEVENNES.
175
forests ; on the otter, stony torrent beds, odoriferous herbs, and rare trees. The
contrast between the inhabitants is equally great, and the dweller in the plain,
proud of his ancient civilisation, looks with disdain upon the Gavache inhabiting
the plateau, though the latter does not yield to him in industry.
In the east of the Orb the Garrigues — thus named from the kermes oaks, or
garrus, which cover their slopes — form the southern edge of a series of lime-
stone plateaux known as causses, from the Latin caU, lime. The most southern
of these is that of Larzac (2,980 feet), but the most typical is the Causse of Mejean
(4,260 feet), a huge mass of limestone 100,000 acres in extent, and bounded on
all sides by steep precipices. There can be no doubt that these causses were
formerly continuous, though separated now by deep canons, which excite the
Pig. 132. — The Mountains op Espinouze.
Hmie 1 : 240,000.
0?»0'E. <.f Paris
6 Miles.
admiration of geologists. No running streams are met with on these limestone
"tables," the rain disappearing almost immediately beneath the surface. The
inhabitants carefully collect the rain-water in cisterns ; and in summer, when the
supply fails them, they are obliged to descend into the canons in search of it.
Springs of sparkling water abound there ; and the shrubs and trees which flourish
near them contrast most strikingly with the barren rocks around. The causses
are covered with herbage, and the inhabitants, very few in number, confine them-
selves to the cultivation of oats, barley, and potatoes. The herbage, however,
scanty as it is, supports thousands of sheep, which furnish excellent wool, and
from whose milk is manufactured the famous cheese known as Roquefort. In
winter, when these plateaux are covered with snow to the depth of several feet, and
176
FEANCE.
most of the inhabitants have deserted them, it is sometimes dangerous to cross
them.
Dolmens abound on these limestone plateaux, whilst scarcely any are met with
in the crystalline region which adjoins them. It has been concluded from this
circumstance that the ancient inhabitants of the plateau differed in origin and
religion from their neighbours. Even at the present day the dwellers on the
limestone plateau of the Lozere diflfer in many respects from the men inhabiting
the district of granitic hills which slopes down westward in the direction of the
Aveyron, and culminate in the Levezou (3,785 feet). On the one hand we have
sweet herbage, a little barley, and oats ; on the other the granitic slopes are covered
Fig. 133. — The Causse of M^jean.
Scale 1 : 315,000.
("KipfP.
WZOTS.ofC;
, SSliles.
with shrub, and rye-fields, or seyalcis, extend along their foot. The peasant of the
causses, or Caussenard, who eats bread made of barley or oats, and drinks clear
water, is tall and bony, and far stronger than his neighbour of the granitic
district, who lives upon rye and chestnuts, and drinks eider.
To the east of these Jurassic limestone plateaux lies the principal mass of the
Cevennes, surmounted by the Esperon (4,658 feet) and the superb granite dome of
Aigoual (5,141 feet). This is one of the wildest districts of France; but the bears,
stags, and wild boars which formerly inhabited its forests have disappeared, and
there now remain only wolves.
A rugged granite region, anciently known as Gevaudan, occupies the south-
eastern corner of the department of Lozere, and expands farther north into a
THE VOLCANOES C
V
15'
tttrOri
rraJid. .
«>i«T
^*v^
DrajNubyA-Vuinenrin.
Orgnite
Po^b^
Lara.
rz3
Caxbanifiero'u&
Sc
NKW -rOl
CENTRAL FRANCE.
Trwta
Clulk
Tertii
Alluvxinu
ETON ScCO
MEZENC AND VIVAEAIS. 177
dome-shaped mass of granite 116 square miles iu extent, and attaining in Mont
Finieils a height of 5,638 feet. The limestone, which to all appearance formerly
covered this plateau, has been removed by denudation. Even the crystalline rock
has been subjected to erosive action. We meet with huge blocks of granite, and
every cavity is filled up with shingle or coarse gravel. There are few villages, and
their inhabitants are very poor.
Whilst the south-eastern portion of Lozere is diversified by mountains, that
part of the department which lies to the north of the Lot is one of the most
desolate regions of all France, consisting of barren plateaux traversed by a few
spurselj' wooded granitic ridges, such as the hills of the Goulet (4,918 feet), the
forest of Mercoire (4,92-) feet), the mountains «f La Margeride (5,098 feet), and
the region derisively called " King's Palace " (4,212 feet).
Mezenc and Vivarais.
The volcanic region of Mont Mezenc and Coiron, to the east of this granitic
plateau, separates the southern Cevennes from the northern prolongation of that
mountain chain, terminating in the pyramid of Mont Pila (4,703 feet), from the
summit of which the view extends across the Rhone valley to the snowy heights of
Mont Blanc. The diversified eastern slopes of the Cevennes, with their mulberry
plantations, vineyards, and chestnut forests, contrast most strikingly with the
elongated slopes stretching towards the north and west.
The first volcanic cones are met with immediately to the north of Mont Tanargue
(4,785 feet), a buttress of the plateau of Vivarais. The southernmost of these
extinct volcanoes is that of Jaujac, the slopes of which are for the most part covered
with chestnut trees, which here, as in Italy, flourish most on disintegrated basalt.
Streams of lava extend from the old " cup," or crater, northwards into the valley
of the Lignon, which flows between clifis of basalt and granite. Lower down on
that river, where it joins the Ardeche, rises the " Gravenne " of Souillols. The
village of Thueyts, higher up in the valley of the Ardeche, stands upon a stream
of lava terminating in a magnificent range of basalt 160 feet in height. Close by
rises the regular cone of the Gravenne of Montpezat, surrounded with fields
of lava, through which the Ardeche and its tributaries have cut themselves
a passage. The crater, or cup, of Aizac (2,126 feet), which rises in solitary
grandeur in the valley of the Volane, is better known than any other of ihe
volcanoes of Lower Vivarais, owing to its proximity to the cold mineral springs
of Vals. Springs discharging mcphitic gases have been discovered farther
west.
But these six old volcanoes lying at the foot of the granitic plateau of Vivarais
are very insignificant in comparison with the volcanic mountain range which forms
the water-shed between Rhone and Loire, and in the centre of which rise the three
"teeth" of Mont Mezenc (5,755 feet), surrounded by subsidiary cones, amongst
which the Gerbier de Jones (5,124 feet) is remarkable as giving birtli to the river
Loire. The phonolithic lava of Mont Mezenc must have burst forth in a high
49
178
FRANCE.
state of fusion, for it spread rapidly over the granitic plateau, and the height of
the volcanic cones here is less than that of the Cantal and Mont Dore, although
the latter rest upon a much lower basis. Mr. Poulett Scrope even thinks that the
lava currents extended as far north as the phonolithic cones of Meygal (4,717 feet).
These lava beds would thus overspread an area of 154 square miles, their average
thickness being 390 feet. They are now for the most part clothed with forests of
Fig '34— The Ds-fii,e op the AnDErHE, near RnoMS.
o.ik and firs. Other .streams of lava flowed towards the oast, covering the trranitic
hills of Coiron (3,380 feet), and even descending into the valley of the Rhone.
This latter, since the last eruption of lava, has been scooped out to a depth of
nearly 1,000 feet, whilst the hills of Coiron, protected by their cap of lava,
offered a greater resistance to the destructive action of geological agencies ; but
they, too, are gradually being destroyed, and huge blocks of basalt sometimes
slide down into the valleys, the castle of Rochemaure being built upon one
VELAY.
179
of them. These hills, are remarkable, moreover, on account of their promon-
tories formed of columnar basalt, and resembling the castles of an ancient race of
giants.
Velay.
The deep valley of erosion scooped out by the Loire separates the volcanoes of
Mezenc from the volcanic plateau of Velay, covered with basaltic lavas vomited
from at least a hundred and fifty craters, most of which can scarcely be distin-
guished now. Streams of lava have frequently blocked up the valley of the
Fig. 136.— The Hii.ls op Coiron.
Scqle 1 ! 200.000.
Z'liDE.of Paris
> MileH.
Loire and of the AUier, but these rivers have scooped themselves out new
channels, frequently laying bare magnificent columns of basalt. One of the
grandest of these defiles is that of the Loire at Chamaliercs, excavated in
granite and basaltic lava to a depth of 980 feet. The volcanic formations in
the vicinity of Le Puy (2,050 feet) are better known than any others in this
region. They include columnar basalt, sheets of lava, and dykes. Close to the
black houses of the town the " Needle " of St. Michel, nn obeli.sk of lava, and the
rock of Corneillc ("2,484 feet), raise their heads. Beyond the dismantled walls of
Polignac, in the north-west, we reach the columns of basalt of La Denise, known
as the " Cross of Straw " and the " Organ " of Espaly. It was here M. Aymard
180
FRANCE.
discovered the fossil remains of animals which roamed over this region when the
surrounding volcanoes were yet in a state of eruption. Two human skeletons have
likewise been discovered, dating back, in all probability, to the same epoch. The
flora of the country does not appear to have changed since then. Fine garnets
and sapphires abound in the basalt of Espaly.
Around Le Puy every available spot is covered with vegetation, but the plateau
which extends thebce to the south is of grievous uniformity. It consists of a wide
Fig. 136.— Le Puy.
Scale 1 : 60,000.
Tlio EufGr
1 Mile.
plain covered with turf or stunted trees, over which are scattered the black
cones of extinct volcanoes, the hirgest amongst which, that of the wood of
L'Hopital (4,663 feet), rises but little above the general surface. A cavity pro-
duced by the escape of a prodigious bubble of gas is occupied by the Lake of
Bouchet (3,926 feet). The Jjuke of Limngne, farther north, is supposed to have
originated in the same manner ; but the old Lake of Bar (3,828 feet), now drained
and converted into a beech wood, occupied the crater of an extinct volcano.
THE VOLCANOES OF AUVEEGNE. 181
The Volcanoes of Auvergne.
A THIRD volcanic region, that of Auvergne, lies to the east of the deep valley
of the AUier and of the granitic spur of Margeride. The volcanic nature of this
region has at all times been known to the peasants living there, and many of
the mountains are called by them Peyre Arse ; that is, " burnt mountain ; " but
Guettard, in 1751, was the iirst who revealed the existence of these French
volcanoes to the world of science. The southermost volcanic group of the
Auvergne occupies the granitic plateau of Aubrac (4,825 feet), rising steeply
above the valley of the Lot, and covered for the most part with pasture grounds,
which support in summer about 30,000 cows and 40,000 sheep. Dolmens, locally
known as " fairy bowers " or " magicians' castles," are scattered over the plateau,
but the only human dwellings met with are the clusters of biiroiis inhabited
by cheese-makers. The people of this remote part of France have presor\'ed
their ancient manners, and even something of their ancient religion. On the
second Sunday of July, as in the time of Gregory of Tours, they walk in procession
to the Lake of St. Andeol, bathe in its turfy waters, and throw into it the
clothes of the sick and propitiatory oflFerings. The extinct volcanoes of Aubrac
possess no special features, but to the north of them rise the hot springs of Chaudes-
Aigues, yielding a supply of water amply sufficing for all domestic purposes as
well as for heating most of the houses in winter. The principal of these springs
has a temperature of nearly 180*^ F., and the soil in the neighbourhood is so warm
that in spite of the elevation of the town (2,130 feet), snow never remains on the
ground.
Crossing the valley of the Truyere, we reach the most considerable volcanic
group of France, that of Mont Cantal, which can fairly compare with Mount
Ktna and other great volcanoes. The various summits of the Cantal form
collectively an isolated cone 95 miles in circumference, and resting upon a
base of granite. L^p to the tertiary epoch the centre of this granitic base was
occupied in part by huge fresh-water lakes. The first eruptions took place in
the miocene age, the last and most terrible of all during the quaternary period.
The lava then ejected enveloped all the cones which existed at that time ; it over-
whelmed the forests, converting them into a thin Inyer of coal, i»nd tilled up the
valleys to a dtpth of nearly 400 feet. The old volcano probably rose to a
height of 8,200 feet, but there remain now only the shattered and worn
fragments of its semicircular ridge, the most elevated points of which are the
I'lomb du Cantal (6,0<!5 feet), the Puy Mary (5,803 feet), and the Puy Cha-
varoche (5,722 feet). Valleys, scooped out by ancient glaciers, some of which
had a length of nearly 20 miles, and by torrents, radiate in all directions
from the central heights. Those of C^re and Alagnon are connected near their
summits by the two tunnels of Lioran, which pierce the mountain at a height
of 3,870 and 3,800 feet respectively, and are traversed by a road and a rail-
way. These deep valleys lay open the geological structure of the mountain,
and exhibit beds of gravel, carboniferous sandstones, and granite, subsequently
182
FRANCE.
covered by currents of basaltic lava. The slopes of the Plomb du Cantal, and
especially those exposed to the moist westerly winds, are covered with forests of
beeches and firs. In the east the forests arc confined to the valley bottoms. The
currents of lava there form a monotonous treeless plateau known as Planeze, and
terminating in promontories of columnar basalt, upon one of which is perched
the old capital of Upper Auvergne, 8t. Flour (2,903 feet). The Alagnon separates
Fig. 137. — The Put de l'Aiguilueb, Mont Doke.
the Planeze from another basaltic plateau to the north of it, which terminates
likewise in curious columnar formations.
The basaltic plateaux of CezalHer, stretching from the Dordogne to the Allier
m the east, separate the Mont du Cantal from the most ancient and conspicuous
volcanic mass of Auvergne, that of Mont Dore. Though covering a smaller area than
its neighbour of Cantal, it is here that the highest mountain of Central France,
the Puy de Siincy (6,180 feet), raises its head, surrounded by other peaks hardly
inferior to it in altitude, such as the Puy Ferrant, the Puy de I'Aiguillier (5,076
THE VOLCANOES OF AUVERGNE.
188
feet), and the Cacadogne. No regular crater can now be traced, but one probably
exUted in the vicinity of Mont Doie (o,:]30 feet), a trachytic cone, iiciir which
the Dordogne and the Couze of Chambon take their rise. The beds of lava
descend from this mountain, often in uninterrupted sheets, until they reach and
spread themselves round its base. At a later period Mont Dore had its cap of ice,
and glaciers descended from it to a distance of 25 miles.
When the great central volcano of Mont Dore Lecanie extinct, other vents
Fig. 138.— The Put of Sanct and the Lake Distbict.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
, 1 Mill-.
opened in its vicinity, and amongst these Mont Turlaret (3,156 feel) discharged
its lavas, now covered with beeches and pines, ripht across the Viilley of the
Couze, and, by drawing up the waters of that river, led to the formation of the
Lake of Chambon (2,887 feet), the most delightful sheet of water in Auvergne,
surrounded by meadows and trees, and having several small wooded islands.
184
FRANCE.
Fig. 139.-
-The Chaiv of thr Put de Dome.
Scale 1 : 100,000.
t0^37'E IP
The plateau to the north of Mont Dore is covered with volcanic cones
of comparatively recent origin. Two of these, the Montsineyre (4,372 feet)
and the Montchal (4,628 feet), are mirrored in small lakes, the one formed by the
damming up of a rivulet, the other occupying an old crater. Amongst the many
other lakes which fill depressions of this plateau, that of Pavin (3,925 feet) is dis-
tinguished by its aspect of solemn grandeur. The inhabitants formerly dreaded
it as the seat of evil spirits, but having been
stocked with trout, it has lost its terrors..
Its depth is 308 feet, and it is fed by sub-
terranean streams.
Thermal and mineral springs abound in
this region, tbose of Mont Dore and of La
Bourboule, near the source of the Dordogne,
being the most frequented. The springs of
St. Nectaire are the best known of those
on the eastern slope, their water resembling
that of Ems. Altogether there are no less
than 200 springs, carbonate of soda asso-
ciated with chloride of sodium predominat-
ing in the hot springs, whilst the cold ones
are almost without exception charged with
carbonic acid.
A chain of volcanic puys rising from
the granitic plateau bounded by the valle3'S
of the Allier and Sioule forms the termina-
tion of the volcanic region of Central France
towards the north. Some of these puys
are dome-shaped, others have the appear-
ance of truncated cones ; and craters and
old lava currents, or cheires, can still be
distinguished. The Puy de Dome (4,805
feet), a dome-shaped mass of trachyte, is
not only the highest summit of the whole
range, but, on account of its regular
shape and commanding aspect, is the most
famous. A temple dedicated to Mercury
formerly stood upon its summit, and a
physical observatory has recently been
erected there. Immediately to the north of it lies the crater of the Little Puy de
Dome, locally known as the " Hen's Nest." The Puy do Come (4,116 feet), near
Clermont, has two distinct craters on its summits, from which broad streams of lava
have poured down into the valley of the Sioule, filling the ancient river channel for
the distance of more than a mile. The Sioule, thus dispossessed of its bed, has
worked out a fresh one between the lava and the granite of its western bank. Its
2°57' CofOr
' 4 Miles.
THE VOLCANOES OF AUVEfiGNE.
185
neighbour, the Puy de Pariou, is remarkable on account of the sharpness of the
brim of its crater. Farther north lies the dome-shaped Sarcouy, the clinkstone
of which is used in the manufacture of filters and glass. But the most curious
volcano of that region is the Puy Chopine, a dome rising from a crater formed
of scoriae, and consisting of granite placed " like the ham of a sandwich " between
layers of basalt and trachyte. The range terminates in the north with two great
volcanoes, the Puys of Louchadiere and Nugere, from both of which immense
sheets of lava extend to the east or west. At Volvic there are vast quarries,
from which the towns in the neighbourhood procure most of thc^ir building
stones.
Most of the cones to the south of the Puy de Dome have craters on their
summits. The combined lava streams of the Puys of Lassola, de la Vache,
and Vich4tel have dammed up the valley of the Veyre, forming the Lake of
Aydat (2,710 feet), upon the borders of which stood Avitacum, the residence of
Sidonius ApoUinaris. Amongst old volcanoes farther south are the Gravenoir
Fig. 140.— Volvic.
Scale 1 : 70,000.
I iMils.
(" black gravel"), thus called from the colour of its ash, and the Tazanat, the crater
of which is occupied by a lake. Near Aigueperse there is a " poison spring "
discharging carbonic acid.
Numerous traces of volcanic activity are met with between the eastern slope
of this range and the pl.iin of the Allier ; amongst others, the famous basaltic
plateau of Gergovia (2,440 feet), the ancient capital of the country, defended liy
Vercingetorix against the legions of Julius Ca;sar.
The integrity of many cones of the Auvergne is aue, according to Sir Charles
Ijyell, to the loose porous nature of the soil, which instantly absorbs all moisture,
and thus prevents the formation of rills. The water thus absorbed is discharged
lower down as bounteous springs, some of which are valued for their medicinal
properties, whilst others cover the rocky surfaces over which they flow with a
coating of calc-taff, and incrusfate all objects exposed to their action. The most
famous of these is that of St. AUyre at Clermont, which has built itself an aqueduct
250 feet in length, terminating in a superb arch thrown across the rivulet of Tire-
186
FRANCE.
taine. Lecoq and other geologists trace the existence of limestones and gypsum in
Auvergne to the action of this and other calcareous springs. They have con-
tributed, too, towards the formation of the fertile plain of the Allier known as
Limagne. This plain, during the miocene age, was a vast fresh-water lake, but
long before the volcanoes surrounding it had ceased their activity this lake had
been drained. The calcareous and other springs then deposited lime, silica, and
gypsum, but it is to a layer of volcanic ashes that Limagne is indebted for its
marvellous fecundity.
Amongst the mineral productions of the Auvergne are argentiferous lead,
which is m )8t abundant on the western slope of Mont Dome, and coal, the car-
boniferous strata extending along the western foot of the volcanoes, from Mauriac
to Moulins and Montlucon, being bedded with surprising regularity.
Fig. 141. — Tub Meandbkings of the Lot.
Scale 1 : 2ao,0uO.
—
l'°0"'P- ■ 1. .1 .1.
^^
w
^1^
lfe^^?f%^' 7^WmS''^
W
m^^
f^^
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^fc
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it
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^
^^
f\^^^3^^^&
44*
50'
B^K,,^
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^^
ll°20'E.otGr.
_
. 5 Miles.
Limousin.
The granitic platform of Auvergne penetrates like a blunt wedge between the
Jurassic and tertiary rocks in the west, and forms a series of sterile plateaux or
terraces, the most elevated of which is that of Mille Vaches ("thousand cows,"
3,228 feet), in which the Vienne, the Vezere, and the northern tributaries of the
Dordogne take their rise. The range of hills which thence extends to the west
is even less elevated. These hills and plateaux have for the most part been
robbed of their forests, and their sole covering consists of shrubs and heather, but
the valleys which pierce them are often delightfully beautiful and of great
fertility. Potter's earth abounds, and has given rise to much industry ; metallic
veins traverse the granite ; and beds of coal are met with occasionally along a line
»5
O
a
o
Id
LIMOUSIN.
187
separating the crystalline rocks from the sedimentary ones. The western prolonga-
tion of the plateau consists almost exclusively of Jurassic limestones and chalk.
The limestone region lying between Figeac, Cahors, and Montauban resembles in
every respect the causses of Aveyron (page 175), though, owing to its smaller
elevation, it enjoys a milder climate. The hilly district farther north, traversed
by the Dordogne and its tributaries, is very different in aspect. The sinuous
course of the rivers traversing these secondary strata clearly marks out the
difference between them and the granite. The Lot, flowing in a deep ravine
excavated in Jurassic limestone, abruptly twists to the right and left, whilst
Fig. 142. — The Rapids op Lalindb.
Scale 1 : 160,000.
•2 Miles.
the Dordogne and other rivers, taking their course between gentle hills, wind
about them in a more placid fiishion.
Of all the rivers rising in Central France the Dordogne is the one which for
the greatest part of its course belongs to the plateaux, differing in that respect
essentially from the Loire and the Aliier, which even in their upper course
traverse ancient lake basins. The Dordogne, on the other hand, is confined
within a narrow ravine until it debouches upon the lowlands of Aquitaine. At
Bretenoux it escapes from the region of granite, and then winds about amongst
limestone hills, its bed being frequently obstructed by rocks. One of these rapids,
that of Lalinde, occurs only a few miles above Bergerac, and even below that
188 FRANCE.
town navigation is interfered with by rapids. Though rendered navigable for a
distance of 250 miles above its tidal head for barges drawing 12 inches, the
Dordogne, owing to these rapids, is very little used as a commercial highway.
FoREZ, Beatjjolais, Charollais.
Thk surface of the granitic plateau to the east of the AUier is far more
varied than that to the west of the river, and more especially in the hills of
Forez (o,380 feet) we meet with landscape scenery quite Alpine in its character,
the bottom of the valleys being covered with meadows, and their slopes wooded.
One of the most delightful valleys of this part of France, the scene of the pastoral
plays of Honore d'Urfe, is that of the northern Lignon. Beyond this valley
porphyry enters largely into the structure of the hills, including the Bois-Xoirs, or
" black forest " (4,238 feet), and the range of La Madeleine (3,820 feet).
The wide valley of the Loire and the coal basin of St. Etienne, one of the
most productive of France, separate the heights of Forez from the ranges form-
ing the northern continuation of the Cevennes, and constituting the water-shed
between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. Granites predominate in these
ranges, but are associated with a great variety of other rocks. The heights
usually known as those of Lyonnais (3,293 feet) consist of granite and meta-
morphic rocks. The mountains of Beaujoluis (3,320 feet) are composed of lime-
stones, marls, and sandstones, pieiced by porphyries which, form picturesque
promontories along the Saone, and extend westward across the valley of the
Loire until they join the porphyries of Forez. In the hills of Charollais (2,540
feet) granite plays but a subordinate part, most of the area being occupied by
Jurassic limestones and still more recent formations abounding in fossils. There
are several coal basins, the best known amongst them being that of Le Creusot.
The Canal du Centre, which joins the Loire to the Saone, passes across a depression
in this range (1,100 feet) which completely severs the outlying porphyritic and
granitic mountains of Morvan (2,9ti0 feet) from the great ceniral plateau of
France.
Inhabitants.
Sterility of soil, an inclement climate, and remoteness from the great high-roads
of commerce sufficiently account for the sparse population of the central plateau
of France. Only the fertile plains of Limagne and of the Loire and the mining
districts can boast of a population exceeding the average of France. In the coal
basins of the Loire the population has doubled since the beginning of the century ;
but though the cattle breeders inhabiting the regions of pasturage have been
benefited by this increase, the country, nevertheless, is not capable of supporting
the whole of its children, and emigration to the more favoured regions of France
is continuing steadily. Auvergnate canvassers are met with throughout France,
and even in some of the neighbouring countries, and many of the now buildings
in Paris have been constructed by masons imported from Correze, Haute- Vienne,
and Crease. The emigration from Cantal to Spain, first called into existence by
LOZKRE.— HAUTE-LOIEE. 189
the pilgrimages to the holy shrine of Compostellu, where the monks of Aurillac
had a church, has not yet ceased. The peasants of Ytrac and Crandelles, two
villages to the west of Aurillac, are those who visit Spain most frequently, and this
familiarity with the countries lying beyond the Pyrenees is said to be reflected in
their customs, and even physique.
In former times the Auvergnates regularly returned to their homes to enjoy
the fruits of their thrift. They kept aloof from strangers when abroad, and
though honest, their love of gain supplanted all other feelings. They were
hospitable and straightforward only when dealing with their own countrymen. In
our own days, however, many Auvergnates never return (o their native home, and
become merged in the general population of modern Fj-ance.
Topography.
LozEKE — This is one of the poorest regions of France, and its popular designa-
tion 88 Gevaudan — that is, country of the Gabales — is involuntarily associated in
our mind with a barren, storm-beaten plateau. The rivers Lot and Tarn drain
most of the department into the Garonne, only a small portion of it being drained
by the Allier and the Ardeche, the former a tributary of the Loire, the latter
of the Rhone. There are profitable lead mines (produce 4-i5 tons of lead), but
hardly any industry.
Meiide (6,239 inhabitants), lying at a height of 2,4G0 feet above the sea, is
looked upon as a place of exile by the functionaries who are stationed here.
Coarse woollen stuffs are manufactured, and many strangers pass through the
town in summer on their way to the sulphur springs of Bagnols, in the valley of
the Lot. Marrejok (4,C38 inhabitants), in a side valley of the Lot, manufactures
coarse woollens. To the north of it, near the Truyere, lies Javols, the old capital
of the G^abales, and still farther north the small town of St. Albaii (1,148.
inhabitants). Florae (1,845 inhabitants), near the Tarn, and in one of the canons
bounding the Causse of Mejean, und Cahis (•584 inhabitants), near which are lead
mines, are the only places of any importance in the south, where Protestant
Camisards and the dragoons of Louis XIV. waged a bloody war. Chuteauneuf-
Randon recalls the death of Duguesclin in 1380. The principal town on the rail-
way which runs through the east of Lozere, up the valley of the Allier, is
Lauf/of/nc (3,228 inhabitants).
Halte-Loire includes the whole cf ancient Velay, together with some adjoin-
ing districts, and though much of its surface consists of sterile granitic plateaux
and sheets of lava, its population is relatively dense, for there are rainerjl
treasures, fine pastures, and manufactures of ribbons and point-lace, known as
dentel/es du Puy.
Le Piiy-en-Vela<i (19,010 inhabitants) was a great place of pilgrimage during
the Middle Ages. The houses of the old town cluster round a venerable cuthedni],
a colossal statue of the Virgin surmounts the rock of Corneille, whilst an old chapel
crowns the neighbouring Aiguille, or needle. The new town lies at the foot of
I'JO FRANCE.
these hills, and contains the Government buildings, a museum rich in local
antiquities, and several public monuments of merit. The manufacture of point
and blond lace is the great business of the town, and indeed of the entire depart-
ment. Fortunately the population is not wholly dependent upon this fluctuating
branch of industry. Cattle are bred for the Lyons market, mules are exported to the
Pyrenees, and the peasants of Velay thus come into contact with the outer world,
and they no longer ostentatiously throw their knife upon the table when entering
an inn. The neighbourhood of Le Puy abounds in natural curiosities, savage
defiles, and fields of lava. The castle of PoUgnac, with its old well, 272 feet in
depth, occupies a hill to the north-west of the town, and farther away, in the same
direction, near St. Pmilicii (1,458 inhabitants), there are numerous caverns, and
the romantic castle of Roche-Lambert, admirably described by Georges Sand.
Other caverns, formerly inhabited, lie to the south-east of Le Puy, near the old
hamlet of La Terrasse.
Yssingeaux (3,716 inhabitants), St. Dklier (2,219 inhabitants), and Monistivl
(2,299 inhabitants), in the eastern half of the department beyond the Loire, lie
within the sphere of the great manufacturing town of St. Etienne, and, in
addition or instead of lace, they manufacture ribbons, taffety, paper, cutlery, and
cotton twist.
Brioude (4,643 inhabitants), on the AUier, is the capital of the poorest arron-
dissement of the department, which nevertheless possesses considerable resources in
its argentiferous lead mines (at Paulhaguet) and coal (near Langeac, 3,530 inha-
bitants). A great part of this district formerly belonged to the famous abbey of
Chaise-Bieu.
AvEYRON is the modern representative of Le Rouergue. Its principal rivers —
Lot, Aveyron, and Tarn — discharge their waters into the Garonne. The greater
portion of the surface consists of sterile segalas, or rye-fields ; but mineral treasures
abound, and in 1875 there were produced 741, (iOO tons of coal, 75,000 tons of
iron and steel, and 2,350 tons of zinc.
Milbiu (14,^82 inhabitants;, on the Tarn, is the largest town of the department,
and some of the spirit of enterprise peculiar to the Protestants who inhabited it
until the revocation of the Edict of Nantes survives to this day, and, in addition to
agricultural produce, its inhabitants export leather gloves, dressed skins, cloth, and
silk stuffs. St. Aff'rique (5,572 inhabitants), on a tributary of the Tarn, has played as
important a part during the religious wars as Millau, and its linens and leather
enjoy a high reputation to the present day. Roquefort, a village in the neigh-
bourhood, has been famous since the eleventh centuiy for its cheese, which owes its
excellent qualities to its being placed in natural caverns of equable temperature
to " ripen." In 1876 the milk of no less than 350,000 ewes was converted into
10,000,000 lbs. of cheese. " Bastard" caverns have been excavated elsewhere in
the C^vennes, but the cheese placed in them does not acquire the properties of real
Roquefort.
Roiin (12,881 inhabitants), on the Aveyron, with a Gothic cathedra], from the
tower of which may be obtained a magnificent view of the surrounding country, is
TARN.
191
an ancient city, still enclosed within mediaeval walls, and supplied with water bj'
means of a Roman aqueduct only discovered in 1856. A most productive coal
basin lies to the north-west of that town, extending to the river Lot and beyond,
its principal centres of population being Aubin (2,472 inhabitants) and Decazeville
(5,968 inhabitants). The coal, unfortunately, is of inferior quality, but in spite of
this, iron works, forges, foundries, machine shops, and glass works have sprung
up near the mines, contrasting curiously with the ruined castles crowning the
neighbouring heights. At Cransac there are mineral springs. The coal near this
place took fire centuries ago, and still keeps burning.
ViUifranche (7,819 inhabitants) is a curious old town, charmingly situated on
the Aveyron, near the western frontier of the department. The north, including
Fig. 143. — Roquefort.
Scale 1 : 160,000.
the valleys of the Lot. the Bourdon, and the Truyere, is equally noted for its
picturesque scenery, though rarely visited. The principal towns there are St.
Geniez (3,167 inhabitant?:), in the "country of Olt," and Enpalioii (2,o80 inhabit-
ants). Conques and Bazouh are delightful villages in the valley of the Dourdou.
Tarn, the ancient Albigeois, embraces a mountainous crystalline region in the
east, and a fertile hilly region in the west, the latter a productive agricultural
district, the former more adapted for the breeding of catlle and sheep. The coal
basin of Carmau.x, yielding about 250,000 tons a year, lies within the department.
Two towns in the picturesque valley of the Cerou, which traverses the northern
portion of the department, contrast strangely with each other, the one, Camiaux
(5,384 inhabitants), having but recently grown from a small village into an impor-
192
FRANCE.
tant town, owing to its vicinity to productive coal mines ; whilst the other,
Cordes (2,115 inhabitants), perched upon its high rock, has retained all the charac-
teristics of a town of the thirteenth century.
Albi (15,874 inhabitants), the principal town on the Tarn, the birthplace of
Fig. 144. — Decazeville.
Scale 1 : 90,000. The Coal Basin is shaded.
o° i3'0.€if Pari*
tilic lie bcaumoiu
1 Kik.
J.apeyrouse, and the original seat of the Albigenses, upon which the hand of the
northern crusaders weighed heavily, abounds in curiou.s old buildings, including a
cathedral built in brick, a fortified archiepiscopul palace, and a remarkable bridge
LOT. 193
over the Tarn. Near it are many old castles. At Lescure there is an old church
said to have been built by the Albigenses, and still farther to the east a series of
rapids, known as Saut-de-Sabo, stops the navigation of the Tarn. The lower valley
of that river is noted for its fertility. Gaillac (6,099 inhabitants) was the great
centre of the wine trade during the dominion of the English, whilst L'Isle d Alhi
(1,743 inhabitants) and Habastens (3,108 inhabitants), in addition to vineyards,
have a few manufactories.
Castres ("20,520 inhabitants), the great manufacturing centre of the department,
occupies a favourable position on the Agout, which is joined here by the Thor^.
The manufacture of cloth is carried on there on a large scale, and there are also
dyeing-houses, tan-yards, paper-mills, and machine shops. Mazamct (10,770 inha-
bitants), on the Thore, has likewise grown into an important manufacturing town,
and there as well as at St. AmaiiS'Soult (2,084 inhabitants), the birthplace of
Marshal Soult, in the same valley, similar industries are carried on as at Castres.
Ascending the Agout, we pass Roquecourhe and Vahre, two manufacturing villages,
and finally reach Lacaune, where there are marble quarries and manufactories of
spurious Roquefort cheese. Lavaitr (4,937 inhabitants), the principal town on the
Lower Agout, has silk and cotton mills, whilst Graulhet (4,435 inhabitants), in a
lateral valley, engages more especially in the dressing of hides.
Soreze (1,390 inhabitants), near the southern boundary of the department, to the
south of Castres, has become famous through its college, founded in the thirteenth
century by Benedictine monks.
Lot is the old province of Quercy, and consists for the greater part of com-
paratively sterile limestone plateaux, traversed by the river after which it has been
named. Only its north-eastern portion is mountainous.
Fiffcac (5,060 inhabitants) is the natural centre of this mountain region, but
although three lines of railway connect it now with the rest of France, it has quite
preserved its mediaeval aspect. The smiling valley of the Dor ogne contrasts
most pleasantly with the barren mountain region extending to tlie north of Figeac.
It abounds, too, in historical remains. At Mnrffl (1,G17 inhabitants) there are
tumuli and mediaeval ruins, and Puy d'Issoli disputes with other places the honour
of being the site of ancient Uxellodunura. Rocamndour, in a side valley of the
Dordogne, is one of the most renowned places of pilgrimage in France, its origin,
like that of the neighbouring town of Gramnl (2,040 inhabitants), dating back to
a very remote age. At Gramat there are mineral springs and a remarkable
swallow somewhat like the " fountain of Italy," near Alatri, and known as Le
Gouffre de Bede.
Ascending the heights immediatelj' in the rear of Graraat, we find ourselves
upon the barren causse, or limestone plateau, of the Lot, the chief town of
which is Goiirdon (2,688 inhabitants). La Basfide, a poor village, was the birth-
place of Murat. The curiosities of this plateau include sinks, grave-hills, and
dolmens.
Cahorn (12,190 inhabitants), the Divona "fountain " of the ancient Gauls, is
named now after the tribe of the Cadurci, whose capital it was. It is the principal
50
194 FRANCE.
town on the Lot, and boasts of Roman ruins and remarkable mediaeval buildings,
including a cathedral and a fortitied bridge. In the time of the Romans Cahors
exported linens and mattresses ; it is now a great centre of the wine trade. The
valley of the Lot is one of the most productive wine districts of France, and from
Cajarc in the east, to Fiuj-VEteque (1,241 inhabitants) in the west, vineyard
adjoins vineyard. Castles abound in this portion of the country ; and Luzech has
been fixed upon by a scientiiic commission appointed by the late emperor as the
site of ancient Uxellodunum. Valuable deposits of phosphate of lime have been
discovered in the hills near Cahors.
Cantal, which adjoins Lot in the east, is covered with forests, barren plateaux,
and mountains. Its inhal itauts, to judge from their physique, are the purest of
Celts. The population is decreasing, for thousands leave their homes annually in
search of work, many of whom never return. The breeding of cattle and sheep
is of considerable importance, and so-called Dutch cheese is manufactured in the
filthy cabins, or burons, scattered over the plateaux.
Aurillac (10,399 inhabitants) the capital, lies at the foot of the old volcano of
Cantal, in the picturesque valley of the Jordane, which, a few miles below the
town, at Arpajon, joins the valley of the Cere. Aurillac was a place of impor-
tance as early as the ninth century. The most remarkable monument of the Middle
Ages is the old abbatial castle, which the citizens captured and partly razed to the
ground in 1233. The environs are delightful, more especially the valleys of the
Jordane and the Cere. Vic- aur- Cere, in the latter, was the capital of the barony
of Carliides during the Middle Ages, and is much frequented now for its mineral
waters. The baronial stronghold of Carkit, on a high basaltic rock to the south,
was destroyed by order of Henri IV. Maurs (1,949 inhabitants), on the road
to Figeac, has important fairs. The arrondissement of Mauriac lies wholly
within the basin of the Dordogne, and, consisting for the most part of upland
forests and pastures, is dependent upon cattle-breeding and the manufacture
of cheese. Sakrs, otherwise of no importance, is famous on account of its
peculiar race of cattle, and Mauriac (2,357 inhabitants) carries on a brisk trade
in cattle, mules, horses, and sheep, besides exporting home-made linens and
wooden ware.
The eastern slope of Cantal is inferior in natural beauties, but upon the whole
very fertile. The Planeze, an uninviting plateau, is known as the granary of
Auvergne. The rounded hills of I^a Margeride, Luguet, and Cezallier offer but
little variety, but in the valleys of the Truyere and the Alagnon we meet with
many picturesque promontories of bas:ilt. One of these is crowned by the old
city of St. Flour (4,848 inhabitants), the most widely known place of Upper
Auvergne, with potteries, manufactures of blankets and of the textile fabrics known
as maregues, but not of brazier-ware, as is popularly supposed. Miirat (2,854
inhabitants) and Massiac (1,251 inhabitants), on the line of rail which connects
Bordeaux and Lyons, enjoy a favourable position for commerce. Near Pierrefort,
an old stronghold commanding a tributary of the Truyere, lies the experimental
farm of M. Richard ; and Chavagnar, to the north of Murat, was the birthplace of
PUY-DE-EOME.
195
Lafayette. Antiquities of prehistoric age, including cave dwellings and dolmens,
abound in this part of Cantul.
PuY-DE-DoMK includes the greater portion of Lower Auvergne, and is not only
one of the largest departments of France, but the wide and fertile valley of the
Allier and its mild climate enable it to support a comparatively dense population.
Clermont (37,074 inhabitants), the capital, occupies a slightly elevated platform
rising in the midst of an amphitheatre of mountains, the most elevated of which is
the Puy, which has given its name to the department. Clermont, the Nemetum
of the Romans, was a populous town in the time of the Gallo-Komans, when its
Fig. 14.5.— Clekmoxt and Moktfekuanu.
Scale 1 : «J,000.
T:S^
5" oSE.of Cr
1 Mile.
temple of Mercury proved a great focus of attraction. The Franks, and after them
the Saracens, destroyed the town, and Philip the Fair established the royal courts
in the neighbouring Montferrand. The latter, however, lost these advantages
■when the courts of law declared Clermont to be the property of the Crown.
Montferrand, since that time, htis been deserted, and life pulsated all the more
briskly through the streets of Clermont. Most of the houses are built of black
lava, and their sombre aspect contrasts strangely with the smiling country around.
There are several remarkable buildings, including a magnificent Gothic cathedral
and the Byzantine church of Notre- Dame, near which the stone upon which sat
Pope Urban II. when presiding over the Council of Nemetum is pointed out.
196
FRANCE.
The town is noted for its semolina and other farinaceous preparations, its confec-
tionery and apricot patties. Cutlery, wooden ware, and textile fabrics are likewise
produced, and a brisk trade in agricultural products carried on. At the same time
Clermont has not forgotten that it gave birth to Pascal, and there are several fine
museums. The environs are highly interesting to geologists. An incrusting
spring rises in the suburb of St. A lyre, the thermal springs of St. Mart are
above the town, and old volcanoes and currents of lava are met with in every
direction.
Riom (10,004 inhabitants), formerly the second capital of Lower Auvergne,
occupies a site very much like that of Clermont, and is likewise built of
sombre lava. It is famous on account of its law school, and has given birth to
Fig. 146— Thiers.
(scale 1 : 40,000.
some of the most illustrious lawyers of France. The environs are delightful.
Vokic (2,265 inhabitants), which supplies Riom with building stone and water,
is commanded by the ruined castle of Tournoel, whence the eye ranges over the
verdant plains of La Limagne, and as far as the town of L'Aigiieperse (2,410
inhabitants), in the north-east, the wooded heights of Montpensier, the castles of
Effrat and Randan, and the busy little town of Marituiucs.
Thiers (11,182 inhabitants), in the vuUey of the Durolle, and suspended, as it
were, upon the steep slopes of the Hill of Besset, is mainly engaged in the manu-
facture of coarse cutlery, but there are also paper-mills, &c. Vlialetdou, the old
centre of industry in this part of the country, has dwindled down into an insignifi-
cant village, visited only for the sake of its cold mineral springs.
o
!3
CORREZE.
197
Ambert (3,8S2 inhabitants), the old capital of Livradois, is the only town in
the upper valley of the Dore, and engages in the manufacture of linen, cloth, and
paper. Arlanc (1,840 inhabitants) and several other villages in that valley
likewise manufacture coarse linens and lace. There are no towns whatever in the
hilly district lying between the valleys of the Dore and the AUier, for Billom,
which had its own mint during the Carlovingian age, and a famous school in the
thirteenth century, has dwindled down into a poor village.
iHsoire (6,089 inhabitants), the principal town on the AUier, was almost
levelled with the ground dur.ng the religious wars, and the Duke of Alen^on
erected a column inscribed " Here stood Issoire ! " The town has now recovered
from these disasters, but is principally known on account of the natural curiosities
met with in its vicinity, and more especially in the valleys of the Couze-Pavin, the
Northern Couze, and the Veyre, all of them rising in the volcanic region in the
west, and descending to the Allier. Brassar, on the AUier, close to the western
frontier of the department, has become known through its coal-fields.
Another mineral district lies in the north-west, being intersected by the valley
of the Sioule. At Pontgihaud there are argentiferous lead mines ; at St. Oermis
Fig. 147. — Section op the CABBO.NtPEuoi's Strata of St. Eloy.
coal mines ; at Meiifii deposits of tripoli ; at Chabmineuf numerous mineral springs,
cold and warm ; and at St. Eloy coal mines. The valley of the Dordogne, in
the south-west, is visited principally on account of its famous hot springs of Mont
Dore and Bouibotile, the latter being richer in arsenic than any others discovered
hitherto.
CoRUEZE lies almost wholly within the basin of the Dordogne, of which the
Correze is merely a tributary. Its eastern portion consists for the most part of
elevated granitic plateaux affording scant pasturage to herds of cattle. Uxsi/
(•2,822 inhabitants), its principal place, is known rather on account of its claiming
to be the representative of ancient Uxellodonum than for its woollen stuffs, which
are also manufactured at Mri/mac (1,570 inhabitants) and other villages, and
exported from Burt (2,298 inhabitants), on the Dordogne, here bounded by
columns of basalt. At Argentat (2,094 inhabitants) the Dordogne becomes navi-
gable for barges.
Tulle (11,038 inhabitants), on the Correze, in the centre of ihe department, is
198
FRANCE.
mainly indebted for its prosperity to its being the seat of a government small-arms
factory employing 1,500 workmen. The manufacture of the kind of lace named
after this town has ceased long ago. The neighbourhood abounds in wild gorges
and picturesque waterfalls, amongst which are those of Montane and Gimel.
Brke (9,417 inhabitants), also on the Correze, is by far the most pleasant town
of the department, its fine cathedral, ancient walls, and reddish hills presenting a
delightful ensemble. The castle of Tarenne, to the south, is the ancestral home of
the famous captain of that name.
The valley of the Vezere, which joins the Correze a few miles below Brive,
abounds in picturesque sites. Ascending it, we pass Allassac (1,338 inhabitants).
Fig 148. — Tayac and Les Eyzies, on the Vi;zfeBE.
Scale 1 : 90,000.
l»r5'E.af ap.
an ancient village; Uzerche (2,146 inhabitants), one of the towns claiming to be
the ancient Uxellodunum ; and Treigiiac (1,772 inhabitants), where the manu-
facture of arms is carried on. A stud for breeding horses has been established
close to the old castle of the Marchioness of Pompadour, in the west.
DoRDOGNE includes nearly the whole of the old province of Perigord, together
with portions of adjoining districts. The rivers which traverse it divide it into
several distinct regions. The granitic plateau of Nontronnais, in the north, is
barren ; in the south there are extensive forests, and between the Isle and the
Dordogne also heaths, now gradually being brought under cultivation. There are
HAUTE-VIENNE. 199
iron mines, iron works, and piper-mills, but Perigord no longer monopolizes the
trade in truffles.
Sarlat (4,521 inhabitants), the capital of the south-eastern arrondissement, is an
old city carrying on some export trade through Vitrac, on the Dordogne. Close
to the latter are Domme, a picturesque old village, and the mediajval castle of
Beynac. The principal places in the valley of the Vezere are Terrasson (2,586
inhabitants), Montignac (2,561 inhabitants), and Le Bitgiie (1,685 inhabitants),
which export iron, wine, and truffles. The environs of Le Bugue are famous for
their caverns, which have yielded prehistoric remains of the highest interest, and
some of the more remarkable of which are near the villages of Tayac and Les
Eyzies, on the Vezere.
Descending the Dordogne, we pass Lalinde (857 inhabitants), and reach Beryerac
(10,610 inhabitants), which exports wines, but is merely a shadow of what it was
before the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. In the vicinity there are several
mediaeval castles, including those of Montaigne, the birthplace of the famous writer
of that name.
Pirigtieiix (23,290 inhabitants), the capital of Perigord, stands on the Isle. It
abounds in Roman and mediaeval ruins, but its glory is the church of St. Front, a
huge basilica, built in the tenth century, in the purest Byzantine style. Coach-
building, the manufacture of cloth, the casting of iron, and other industries are
carried on at Perigueux, as well as a brisk commerce ; but the other towns and
villages of the valley are hardly remarkable for anything but ruins and historical
associations. Hautefort is commanded by the castle which Bertrand de Born, the
warrior and troubadour, inhabited. Thiricn (2,114 inhabitants) exports cattle and
cheese, and manufactures earthenware. The lower valley of the Isle is one of the
most productive agricultural districts of France. The most important towns there
are Mussidrtn (1,886 inhabitants) and Monfpont (1,697 inhabitants).
Brantome (1,292 inhabitants), with the ruins of an abbey ; BourdeiUes, with
two old caatlos and curious grottoes ; and Riberac (1,818 inhabitants), the capital
of the forest district known as La Double, are the principal places in the pictu-
resque and well-cultivated valley of the Dronne, which forms the boundary
between French and the Romaic dialect, known as P^rigourdin.
At Nonfron (2,378 inhabitants), in the extreme north of the department, are
forges and cutlery works, in which knives with box-wood handles and movable
copper ferrules are manufactured.
Haute- ViENNE includes a portion of Upper Limousin, and lies wholly upon a
granitic plateau, having an average elevation of 1,600 feet, and intersected by the
river Vienne and its numerous tributaries. The soil, however, is not very
favourable to agriculture, and the breeding of cattle, pigs, and horses is the chief
occupation. Chestnuts form the principal food of thousands of the population.
Excellent kaolin and potter's earth are found.
<S7. Yrieir (3,5~2 inhabitants), a town founded in the sixth century, in the
extreme south of the department, has potteries, supplied witli raw material from
the clay pits in its vicinity. The south-western portion of the department abounds
200 FEANCE.
in feudal castles, from one of which, near Chdim (1,425 inhabitants), was shot the
arrow which mortally wounded King Richard Cccur de Lion in 11!)9. Rot'lu-chouart
(1,754 inhabitants) likewise boasts of a magnificent castle, rebuilt in the fifteenth
century.
The Vienna flows past Ei/moutiers (2,228 inhabitants), St. Leonard (3,464
inhabitants), where Gay-Lussac was born, and the industrial village of Pont-de-
Noblat, and having been reinforced by the Thaurion, it washes the foot of the
prominent hill upon which rise the houses of Limoijes (55,097 inhabitants), the
most important town on the western slope of tho granitic plateau of Central
France. Originally the town owed its rapid growth to its favourable geographical
position on the high-road connecting Orleans with Bordeau.x ; but not being a
great railway centre, nor having the disposal of a navigable river, it has somewhat
lost its ancient importance. Only very few traces of Roman age exist now, but
mediaeval buildings abound, the most noteworthy being a Gothic cathedral and a
bridge. Amongst the old " rows " still existing, that of the Butchers is the most
curious, its stone houses being ornamented with wood carvings. Limoges is
famous for its ceramic industry. It no longer produces such fine enamelled
metal-work as in the Middle Ages, but several thousand workmen are now engaged
in the manufacture of china, besides which there are cotton, woollen, linen, and
paper mills.
The towns lower down on the Vienne are equally industrious. Passing the
picturesque valley of the Briance, which opens on the left, and leads to Pierre-
buffiere, the native village of Dupuytren, we reach Aixe (2,328 inhabitants), where
there are mills and tan-yards; and still lower down, St. Janien (5,736 inhabitants),
with paper and oil mills, and manufactories of china.
The north of the department is sparsely populated, but abounds in pictu-
resque scenery, notably in the valley of the Gartempe. The principal towns there
are Bellac (3,252 inhabitants) and Domt (2,322 inhabitants).
Creuse, thus named after a river flowing through a deep ravine carved into the
granitic plateau, includes the greater portion of the old province of Marche. It is
by no means a fertile country, but cattle-breeding is carried on with fair results,
and its coal mines have given rise to a certain amount of industry.
Boiirf/riiieiif (2,745 inhabitants), on the Thaurion, carries on the same industries
as Limoges, its manufactories being supplied with fuel from the neighbouring coal
mines of Bomnorean. Here are the ruins of an old priory with a Moorish tower,
in which Zi/im, a brother of Bajazet II., was kept a prisoner.
AuhtiHHOH (6,427 inhabitants) is the principal manufacturing town on the Creuse.
It is said to have been founded by the Saracens, and has been famous ever since for
its carpets, the designs for which, in the present day, are supplied from Paris.
Felletin (2,913 inhabitants), a little higher up on the same river, likewise manu-
factures carpets. The elevated table-land on both banks of the Creuse abounds in
cromlechs. Ahun (1,047 inhabitants) and Lamteix (3,617 inhabitants) are the
oentre3 of a productive coal district, which yielded 277,000 tons in 1875.
Gueret (4,973 inhabitants), on a plateau between the Creuse and the Gartempe,
O
©
ALLIEB.
901
18 the capital of the department, hut not otherwise remarkable. The whole of this
district of the old province of Marche abounds in prehistoric and mediicval remains,
the vicinity oi La Souteiraine (2,8:9 inhabitants) being especially rich in them.
BoiiHsac (990 inhabitants) is the only place of note in the valley of the Little
Creuse, and about 6 miles to the south of it, near Toulx St. Croic, may still be
traced the triple enceinte of an ancient city of the Celts.
The valleys of the Turdes and Cher, which rise in the eastern portion of the
department, delight by their verdure ; but the plateau through which they flow is
arid, and yields only a poor return to its cultivators. One of the many revolts of
the peasantry originated here, and it is supposed that the name of croquanh, by
which its participators were designated, is derived from the village of Crocq.
Chamljon (1,4;J3 inhabitants) is the principal place in the valley of the Tardes.
Near it is Evaux (I, (ill inhabitants), with sulphur and ferruginous springs.
Allif.r includes the old province of Bourbonnais, and is named after the
fine river which intersects it from north to south. The Cher crosses the western
Fig. 149. — The Coal Measuues of B^zenet (Commbnthy).
100 Yards.
portion of the department; the Loire washes its eastern boundary. There are
mountains in the south, but the greater portion of Bourbonnais lies beyond the
limits of the granitic plateau, and the valleys of the Allier and the Loire are of
considerable width. Up to the middle of this century the department was almost
wholly agricultunil, but the development of its coal and iron mines has wrought a
remarkable transformation.*
Monflugon (21,904 inhabitants), on the Cher, has quadrupled its population in
the course of a single generation, and aspires to become the Manchester of
France. The old feudal city, perched on a rock, is environed by the fine streets
of the modern town. The plate-glass manufactory of St. Gobuin is the most
considerable establishment of the town. Montluc^'on is supplied with fuel from the
neighbouring coal basin of Commentry (9,789 inhabitants), one of the most produc-
tive of all France. Near the village of Bezenet the conI seams are 45 feet in
thickness. Tlioy caught fire in 1816, and burnt until 1840, when a rivulet was
diverted from its course and soon inundated the mines. Neris (2.190 inliabitunts),
* In 1876 the deparlmcnt produced 944,600 tuns of coal and l.'0,800 tons of iron and steel.
202
FBANCB.
close to Montlucon, is the Aquae Neri of the Romans, and its hot springs still
attract many visitors.
Ebreuil (2,206 inhabitants) and St. Pourfain (3,465 inhabitants) are the
principal towns in the valley of the Sioule, which joins that of the AUier a few
miles before the town last named. Ganmt (5,042 inhabitants), on the Andelot,
another tributary of the Allier, is the capital of the whole of this district, which
abounds in Byzantine churches and castles, and enjoyed a certain reputation in
former times for its wines.
Vichi) (6,154 inhabitants), on the Allier, is one of the fashionable watering-
places of Europe, boasting of no less than 25,000 visitors a year. Some of the
Fig. 160.— Vichy.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
, 1 Mile.
springs are hot, others cold, and they all contain bicarbonate of soda. C».«p<
(5,087 inhabitants), close to Vichy, has similar springs, and the time is not far
distant when both these towns will form but one. Checked cotton stuffs are
manufactured at Vichy. The vicinity of these towns abounds in picturesque
scenery, and amongst old castles are those of Bourbon-Busset and Montgilbert.
As we descend the AUier the character of the country changes gradually until we
enter upon a broad vale, swampy in part. At a point where this vale contracts
stands Monlim (21,122 inhabitants), the capital of the department and the birth-
place of Villars. There are the ruins of the old castle of the Dukes of Bourbon-
ALLIEE.
208
nais, a fine Gothic church, and several other mediaeval huildings of interest, hut
Moulins is nevertheless a town of modern growth. Agriculture has made great
progress iu the environs, and vast tracts of heath have recently been brought
Fig. 151. — St. ^TrENNE.
Scale 1 : 60,000.
2*1 5' E of P»n»
mm
1 Mile.
under cultivation. Sourigriy (1,581 inhdbitaut^), in a side vulley whicli opens at
Moulins, is the cradle of the house of Bourbon. It was here that Adhcmur, the
head of the family, built himself a castle in the tenth century, and founded an
204 FRANCE.
abbey. In the thirteenth century the family seat was transferred to the neigh-
bouring town of Bourbon, surnamed I' ArchmnhauU (2,452 inhabitants), after one of
the dukes. This town is noted now only for its mineral springs. Lurcy-Levy
(1,665 inhabitants), to the north of it, has a manufactory of china, and forges.
La Piilisse (1,796 inhabitants), on the Bebre, is the capital of the arrondisae-
raent of the department. Above that town there are carding- mills, dye works, and
other factories, and below it, near Bert, coal mines.
Loire, with the adjoining department of Haute-Loiro, forms the easternmost
portion of the plateau, and consists of the old lake basin of the Loire, bounded on
each side by mountains of the most varied geological constitution. It includes
nearly the whole of the old province of Forez. The area capable of cultivation is
of restricted extent, but there are rich coal mines, and these account for the popu-
lation having doubled since the beginning of the century.
Feurs (2,695 inhabitants), the Roman Forus, and old capital of Forez, in spite
of its favourable geographical position on the Loire, is a decayed town. In the
Middle Ages Montbrison (5,959 inhabitants) became the capital, because it oifered
greater facilities for defence ; but in our own days St. Etienne (117,537 inha-
bitants) has become the great centre of population. The town is situated on the
Furens, a tributary of the Loire, and close to a gap in the mountains through
which runs the road connecting the river just named with the valley of the Rhone.
The coal-fields, to which the town is indebted for its prosperity, cover an area of
50,000 acres, yield over 3,000,000 tons a year, and contain 577,000,000 tons,
sufficient for 175 years' consumption at the present rate. The physiognomy of
St. fitienne resembles that of some of the manufacturing towns in the north
of England, the atmosphere is filled with coal dust, and the houses and streets
are covered with it. There are an art school and a public museum, but the most
striking objects in the town are its huge factories, amongst which those of ribbons,
lace, and small arms hold the first rank.
The towns in the vicinity of St. Etienne carry on important manufactures.
Ricamarie (3,269 inhabitants) and Le Chambon (3,928 inhabitants) have forges and
foundries; Firminy (10,010 inhabitants) manufactures steel and hardware; and
Fouillome, in the north-west, manufactures ribbons and small arms. On the road
to Lyons one manufacturing town rapidly succeeds the other. At Terrmoire
(2,856 inhabitants) the first Bessemer steel was manufactured in France; St.
Chamond (14,420 inhabitants) is noted for its lace ; Rive-de-Gier (14,518 inha-
bitants) has glass works, and machine shops in which locomotives are constructed.
Other manufacturing towns on the Gier are St. Jnlicii-m-Jarrct (4,553 inhabitants),
St. Paul-en-Jarrct (1,753 inhabitants), Grand Croix (3,434 inhabitants), and
Lorette (3,751 inhabitants).
As we descend the valley of the Loire we leave this manufacturing district
behind us, and enter an agricultural country. At St. Rambert (1,319 inha-
bitants) and Andrczieux the barges, navigating the Loire take in their cargoes
of coal. In the side valley of the Bonson, which leads to St. Bonnet- te-C/idfenu
(2,351 inhabitants), the peasants spend their leisure hours in the manufacture of
LOIBE. 806
point-lace. At Montrond the river Coise joins the Loire from the right. Ascend-
ing it, we reach St. Galmier (1,990 inhabitants), famous for its cold effervescent
springs, and higher up the small industrial town of Chazellcs-sur-Lynn (4,694
inhabitants), a dependency of Lyons, as its name implies. Roanne (21,472
inhabitants), the principal town in the north of the department, has cotton-mills,
and carries on a considerable commerce, facilitated by the navigable Ijoire and the
railways which converge upon it. Panmieres (2,'332 inhabitants), in the north-
east, engages in the manufacture of linen and embroidery.
Montbrhon (5,959 inhabitants), the old capital of the department, occupies the
summit of a volcanic hill to the west of the broad valley of tlie Loire, and offers
a curious contrast to the busy manufacturing towns on the east of that river,
Its most curious edifice is the so-called Room of Diana, ornamented with 1,500
coats of arms of the ancient nobility of Forez. Several of the old volcanoes of this
region are now surmounted by villages or the ruins of castles or abbeys. Boen
(2, "204 inhabitants), on the north-west, is the chief town of the picturesque district
of Urfe.
CHAPTER VI.
CHARENTE ANB VENDEE (ANGOUMOIS, SAINTONGE, ATJNIS, POITOTJ).
General Aspects. — Hills.
HE geographical region which forms the physical and ethnological
boundary between the basins of Loire and Garonne is only of
small extent, for it is confined to the three departments of Poitou
and the two of the Charente. But in spite of its small extent
this is one of the most interesting portions of France, whether we
look at its history or its physical geography. Its subterranean rivers and the
changes continually going on along its seaboard are full of interest. The tran-
sition from north to south is exhibited in the vegetation, and a traveller proceed-
ing from the vallej* of the Vieniie almost feels as if he breathed another atmo-
sphere. The gap between the central plateau and the heights of northern Poitou
has been fought for on many occasions by the men of the North and the South.
The Franks passed through it when warring against Aquitaine and the Visigoths ;
Christians and Moslems have struggled there for the possession of Gaul ; and the
French of the north there fought a terrible battle against the English, who held
possession of Guyenne. The Protestants here made a stand against the Catholics,
and still more recently the Vendee was the scene of a struggle between Royalists
and Republicans.
The rounded ridges which ramify from the mountains of Limousin are devoid
of almost every picturesque feature, and to a great extent consist of barren uplands,
but the valleys which intersect them delight by their transparent streams and
verdure, and on the banks of the Gironde these chalk hills terminate in bold cliffs,
equal in beauty to those on the English Channel.
Of very different aspect are the granitic hills of the Gatine, in the centre of
Poitou, uTid on the Upper Sevre of Niort. Being covered only with a thin layer
of vegetable soil, they are for the most part barren, but sparkling rivulets inter-
sect their numerous valleys. They culminate in ilont Malchus — that is, Mercury
(935 feet) — named probably after some now forgotten deity, for in this poor district
of Gaul the worship of the old gods maintained itself longer than elsewhere, and
cromlechs abound.
RIVEES.
207
The hilly district of Bocage lies to the east of the Gatine, and is charac-
terized by numerous trees, shady lanes, aud hedges. The country in the
north is wild and varied in the extreme, and its hedges and trees rendered it
eminently suited for partisan warfare as long as there existed no ready means
of communication. It was here the Vendeans resisted most obstinately the
progress of the Republican armies. In the Middle Ages a "march," or border
district, separated Poitou from Brittany. Contending armies were forbidden access
to it, and its iuhabitaats paid neither taxes nor excise dues. At the present time
this march no longer differs from the adjoining districts, and the introduction
of cattle-breeding is gradually changing the physiognomy of the country and
enriching its inhabitants. Everj' peasant proprietor keeps a cow, a pig, and a pair
Kg. 162. — ^Thi Head- Waters of the Touvke.
Scale 1 : 640,000.
10 Mile*.
of draught oxen, which he incites to labour by chanting soft and persuasive
melodies.
Rivers.
The Charente is the only large river between the Loire and the Garonne.
It rises on the granitic plateau of Limousin. At first it flows in the same direc-
tion as the Vienne, from which it is separated by a narrow ridge, but soon it
swerves abruptly round to the south-Avest, and, having pierced tlie plateau which
up till then barred its course, it enters upon a wide valley covered with pastures
and poplars. A little above Angoulfeme its crystal waters are reinforced by those
of the Touvre, one of those curious rivers which flow for a considerable portion of
their course through subterranean channels. This river is fed by the Tardoire
and the Bandiat, both of which rise on the granitic plateau of Central France,
208
FRANCE.
but almost entirely disappear whilst passing through a fissured and cavernous
limestone region. The greater portion of their water seems to find its way to
the Touvre, a river which, close to its source, sets in motion the paper-mills
of Ruelle. Engineering works have converted the Lower Charente into an
important high-road of commerce. It takes it« course through a wide valley
bounded by hills, and covered with woods or vines. The tide makes itself fell
nearly as high up as Cognac. Small coasters can ascend the Charente as far as
Suintes, a short distance below its confluence with the Seugne or Sevigne. Below
Fig. 153. — The Old Coast of Vendue, extending to Rochebonnb.
Scale 1 : 1,200,000.
Koihf-h,
to — »7,
Over JJ Fathoms
Rochefort the estuary of the river is bounded by mud-banks, and its mouth is
closed by a bar having but 2 feet of water at low ebb.
The other rivers of Saintonge and Poitou, such as the Seudre, the blue Sevro
of Niort, and the Lay, are very inferior to the Charente. The Seudre, indeed, is
hardly more than a creek, but it was the great naval station of France on the
Atlantic up to the time when the ports of Brest and Rochefort were created.
The Coast.
The geological agencies which have severed Cornwall from Armorica and reduced
Brittany to its existing dimensions have been active likewise all along the
THE COAST.
208
coast from the Loire to the Gironde. Submerged rocks extend to the west of
Oleron, of the island of Re, and of the entire coast of Vendee, and join the
island of Yen by a submarine " bridge," or isthmus, to the mainland. These
rocks are nothing else but the platform which supported the ancient coast, sup-
posed to have extended as far as the rocks of Rochebonne, 30 miles to the west
of Re.
But within this ancient coast-line we are able to discover traces of one which
has been swallowed up more recently. The island of Oleron was undoubtedly a
portion of the mainland in former times. The arm of the sea which now separates
it from the continent is hardly 1,600 feet wide at low water, and in the fourteenth
Fig. 154. — NolRMOUTIEB.
Scale 1 : 320,000.
.Slliles.
century it was narrower still. No vessel could pass it then, but a frigate might
sail through it with confidence now, if it were not for its irregular currents and
sand-banks.
The island of Re, too, ia nothing but a detached portion of the mainland, first
heard of in the eighth century. Its Jurassic limestones are of the same age as
those of the neighbouring coast, and ledges, or platiiis, of rocks extend far into
the sea, more especially near the lighthouse known as the " Whalers' Tower."
Tradition speaks of a city of Antioch which formerly stood upon the west coast of
the island, and whose houses reveal themselves occasionally to a fisherman fioating
upon the " Savage Sea " which has swallowed them up.
61
210
FRANCE.
Tlie island of Noirraoutior, on the northern coast of the Vendee, presents the
same features as that of Oleron. The narrow channel which separates it from the
mainland can he crossed dry-shod during low water. Geologically this island
no douht attaches itself to the mainland, but its separation must date back to a
very remote epoch ; for insects, a snail, and several Crustacea not known on the
mainland, are found on it ; whilst the viper, so common throughout Poitou, is
unknown there. The strait certainly was wider and deeper formerly, and no one
would have ventured to cross it up to 1766. Erosion and deposition always go
hand in hand. Thus, in the case under notice, the debris of the north-western
Fig. 155. — SiLTED-up Bays on the Coast of Aunis.
Scale I : 650,000.
portion of Noirmoutier has to a great extent been deposited in the Gulf of Le
Fain, which is gradually being silted up. Other instances of the land gaining
upon the sea have been noticed, and geologists are of opinion that they can only
be accounted for by our assuming a gradual upheaval of the land. The creek of
Aiguillon was of great extent formerly, and the Sevre debouched into a gulf of
the sea which has completely disappeared. Traces of marine erosion have been
discovered at a considerable distance inland. At St. Michel, in Herm, there are
old oyster beds at an elevation of 30 feet above the sea. The old port of Talmont,
where Henry IV. embarked his artillery, has become dry land.
The emerged lands of Rochefort and the Marennes consist of clay carried
THE COAST.
211
thither by sea, for the neighbouring hills of Saintonge are composed of limestone.
These new lands may therefore be fitly described as " gifts of the ocean."
Submerged and recently formed lands frequently exist in close proximity to
each other. Thus the isthmus which formerly joined the island of Aix to the
mainland has been washed away, and tbe towns of Montmeillan and Chatelaillon,
farther north, have disappeared beneath the waves. On the other hand, many of
tbe marshes to the south of the Charente were bays of the sea formerly, and are
still known as " ports." The old port of Brouage, of great importance during the
Middle Ages, and possibly identical with Ptolemy's Portus Santonum, is now at a
considerable distance from the sea. In this instance, however, man aided the
work of nature, for in 1586 the citizens of Rochefort sank twenty vessels laden
with stone at its mouth.
Dunes fringe nearly the whole of the coast from the Gironde to the Loire.
Those of Arverfc cover an area of 350 square miles, and rise to a height of 210 feet.
Fig. 166. — The Akcibjjt Gi'Lf of Poitou.
Scale 1 : 800.000.
They differ from those of the Landes by their richness in carbonate of lime and
shells ; but like them they march, and many a town has been overwhelmed by
them within historical times. Many of these dunes have recently been planted
with pines.
Man has taken possession of many tracts formerly invaded by the sea. The
whole of the ancient Gulf of Poitou, 150 square miles in extent, has been drained
and converted into pastures and fields. The towns and villages surrounding this
ancient gulf are built upon hillocks formerly washed by the sea. The cottiers
inhabiting the jjo/tlers never travel without a lenping pole, enabling them to
clear the ditches which separate their fields. Similar reclamations have been
made opposite to the island of Noirmoutier and elsewhere.
In former times, when salt was dearer than it is now, the inhabitants along the
coast established numerous salt-pans, which have now been deserted. These old
pans, however, can be made to yield a rich harvest of hay and herbage, but
212
FRANCE.
care must be taken to prevent the mixture of fresh with brackish water. To a
disregard of this sanitary law must be traced the endemic fevers which formerly
decimated the vicinity of Rochefort and of Marennes. It is due mainly to the
energy of M. Le Terme that this source of danger to life has been suppressed, and
since 1832 the annual death rate has been reduced Irom 48 to 27 per thousand
inhabitants.
The sea adds in more than one respect to the wealth of the inhabitants. Oyster
parks, fish-ponds, and mussel farms have been established, and the islanders collect
seaweed with which to manure their fields.
Fig. 157. — AnoodlAme.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
1 ^iUe.
Topography.
Charentk has been formed out of portions of Poitou, Marche, Saintonfre, and
Angoumois. The Charente is the principal river, but the north-western portion
forms part of the granitic plateau of Central France, and is drained by the Vienne.
The Jurassic limestone region in the north is. to a great extent covered with forests.
The cretaceous districts in the south are by far the most productive.
Coiifolens (•2,;374 inhabitants), the principal place on the Vienne, and Ruffee
(3,155 inhabitants), on the Upper Charente, are the only towns of importance in
CHAEENTE.
218
the north-western portion of the department, the latter being noted for its partridge
and truffle patties.
Angouleme (28,665 inhabitants), the capital, occupies a scarped hill on the
western bank of the Charente. Its old ramparts, now converted into public walks,
afford magnificent prospects over the surrounding country. Its position on a
great navigable river, and in the midst of a fertile country, is exceedingly favour-
able. The most prominent buildings are a cathedral of the twelfth century and a
Fig. 168. — ^The Beandt Districts of Charente.
Scale 1 : &iO.(<OU.
3''|w.»f
KViit/^flm^ r^OuivV
modern town-hall of noble proportions, which contains also the town library and a
museum. Of the dominion of the Romans there exii t but few traces. The manu-
facture of puj>er is tlie great industry of the city, the annual produce amounting to
7;j,0()0 tons, valued at nearly £400,000. The quarries in the vicinity yield an
excellent white stone, which hardens on being exposed to the air, and forms an
important article of export. On the Tonvre is a Government cannon foundry.
Amongst places in the vicinity of interest to the archa:'ologi8t are La Coiiroinw
(1,04;} inhabitants;, with a picturei-quo old abbey; St. Aniantde lioixe, y/ith. a
214
FRANCE.
Romanesque church ; the old town of Montbron (1,416 inhabitants) ; and the castle
of Rochefoucauld (2,378 inhabitants).
In its course to the west the Charente flows past Chaieaimeuf (2,691 inhabit-
ants), Jarnae (4,390 inhabitants), and Cognac (13,811 inhabitants), before entering
Saintonge. Cognac owes its great wealth to the brandy trade. The "Cham-
pagne," with its spongy soil overlying chalk, yields the best qualities of brandy,
that produced in the other district being known as Cru des Bois— that is, of the
woods— from the patches of forest still existing. All the brandies produced in the
two departments of Charente are known as Cognacs, whatever their quality.
Cognac has an old Romanesque church and the ruins of an ancient castle. In the
vicinity there exist a few remarkable cromlechs, including that of /SV. Fort.
Barbezieux (2,958 inhabitants) is the principal town in the southern part of
the department. Other places are C/iakm, Montmorean, and Aubeterre, all of them
Fig. 159. — ROCHEFOET AND THE LoWER ChABENTB.
Scale 1 : 240,000
S'',2u\«C»t'au-i»
^TWrfCr
. 5 Miles.
with old castles. St. Eutfope, a village near Montmoreau, is inhabited by a-colony
of Limousin potters, who have retained their dialect.
Chauente-Ini'kkifa:re (Lower Charente) includes nearly the whole of Sain-
tonge, with portions of Poitou and Aunis. It is divided into the hilly district of
Bocase ; the lowlands along the Giroiide and the Atlantic, still known as
" marshes," though for the greater part drained ; and the two islands of Oleron
and Re, which constitute a little world apart. It is one of the richest agi'icultural
departments of France, producing excellent vegetables and fruits, wines, and
cattle. The sea yields fish, oysters, and salt, and there is also some industry.
Commercially it is dependent upon Bordeaux. The population is decreasing.
The southern portion of the department consists of wooded hills and extensive
landes, which are gradually being brought under cultivation. Jonzac (2,446
inhabitants) and Pom (3,440 inhabitants), both on the Seugne, the latter town
CHAEENTE-INFERIEUEE.
215
having an old castle now used as town-hall, school, and pnson, are the principal
places in that part of the country.
Sainfes (11,150 inhabitants), the ancient Santones, on the Charente, is the capital
of Suintonge. A triumphal arch and a huge amphitheatre recall the Roman age.
Other remarkable buildings are the Gothic cathedral, a vast crypt in the suburb
of St. Eutrope, and a museum rich in antiquities. Saintes has potteries, with
which Bernard Palissy's name is honourably connected, and carries on a brisk
trade in brandy. Following the course of the Charente, we pass Tdillchourg, where
St. Louis defeated the English ; the castle of Crazannen, and the busy port of
Fig. 160. — La Rockellb.
Scale 1 : 30,000.
i*Vo£Pu*u
. li Miles.
St. Satinini (1,458 inhabitants), near which are famous quarries; and finally reach
Rnehefort (25,454 inhabitants), the largest town of the department, and one of the
five great military ports of France. The foundation of the town hardly dates
back two centuries. It is regularly built, has fine public gardens, but no remark-
able buildings except those connected with naval or military matters, including an
arsenal, dockyard, and huge hospital. The navigation of the Lower Charente is
intricate, but men-of-war are nevertheless able to proceed up to the town, where
tbey are safe from every hostile attack. The roadstead is dofenrled by several forts,
and well sheltered. Toiniay-Chareiite (2,20;j inhabitants), only 3 miles above
2l6
FRANCE.
Rochefort, is a commercial port, much frequented by Euglish vessels in search of
brandy.
Marenues (l,f^63 inhabitants), in the murshes to the south of Rochefort, was
famous in former times for its salt-pans, which yielded as much as 100,000 tons,
but this industry has disappeared almost entirely, and the salt-pans have been con-
verted into pasture-grounds, iish, or mussel ponds. Commerce, too, has nearly
deserted the town ; and the tower of its church, 256 feet in height, no longer servee
as a landmark to the mariner. The fattening of oysters, however, is carried on
now with considerable success here, as well as at the neighbouring La Tremblade
Fig. 161. — La Eochelle
(2,568 inhabitants), no less than 30,000,000 being sold annually. La Trem-
blade likewise attracts a few visitors, but the great seaside resort of the depart-
ment is Royan (4,198 inhabitants), at the mouth of the Gironde. A few miles
inland from that place is Satijon (2,209 inhabitants), with a Roman obelisk (Pire
Longc) 72 feet in height.
The island of Oleron has grown rich since the introduction of the vine, the
value of land having quadrupled in the course of forty years. The principal
towns on the island are St. Gcon/ra (999 inhabitants), Le Chateau (1,578 inia-
bitants), and St. Pierre (1,545 inhabitants).
CH ARENTE - INFEBIEURE.
217
La Rochelle (19,030 inhubitants) is the principal commercial port of the depart-
ment, and it8 capital. In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries the town was one
of the great ports of France, and on the eve of St. Bartholomew its Protestant
citizens forced the royal army to retire, after a siege which cost it 20,000 men.
Fifty years later Richelieu compelled the surrender of the town, after nearly the
whole of its population had died of hunger. From this disaster the place has
never completely recovered, but its citizens are still noted for their public spirit,
and there remain in it many buildings dating back to the Middle Ages. There
Pig. 162.— AK8-KN-Rfi.
are " rows " (porches) as at Chester, an old town-hall, and four huge towers, one
of which was formerly used as a lighthouse. The commerce of the town has
considerably increased since railways connect it with Paris and Bordeaux, and it
is proposed to construct docks capable of receiving trans -Atlantic steamers.
The island of Re, close to La Rochelle, supports a dense population, who
cultivate the soil, grow wine, fish, and make salt. Their wine, however, like that
of Oleron, has the flavour of the seaweed with which they manure their vine-
yards. The principal towns on the island are St. Mnrfin (2,645 inhabitants;, Ars
(1,954 inhabitants), and La Flolte (2,241 inhabitants).
218
FEANCE.
The breeding of mussels is carried on most exten^ively on the mud-banks of
the Bay of Aiguilloii, where nearly 10,000 acres are enclosed by stockades,
upon which the mussals grow in clusters. Each of these enclosures has an
opening for the admission of fish. The fishermen, when they cross these mud-
banks, rest with one knee upon a miniature wherry, and propel themselves with
the disengaged leg. This curious apparatus was invented by an Irishman named
Walton, who was shipwrecked on this coast in 1240.
Marans (3,217 inhabitants), on the Sevre, which enters the Bay of Aiguillon, is
the centre of a highly productive corn district, and carries on a considerable com-
Fig. 163. — The Gulp of Aiocillox.
Scale 1 : 125 noo.
3' 3(W<rfPari»
20 Miles.
merce. Surgeres (3,246 inhabitants) and Si. Jian (V Angihj (6,309 inhabitants) are
inland agricultural towns.
ViENNE includes the eastern half of the old provini-e of Poitou, and, in addition
to the river after which it is named, is drained by the Charente and the Dive.
It is by no means a wealthy department, and has hardly any industry.
Ctvray (2,210 inhabitants), on the Charente, is the centre of an agricultural
district. The environs abound in prehistoric remains, and at Charroux there are
llomau ruins. Crossing a height of land, we enter the picturesque valley of the
DEUX-8EVEES. 219
Clain, which is tributary to the Vienne. Passing Vivonne (1,180 inhabitants), and
leaving Lmignan (1,332 inhabitants) far on our left, we reach Poitiers (31,892
inhabitants), the capital of Poitou, perched on a plateau, and of imposing appear-
ance. Its streets are narrow and tortuous : churches and monasteries abound, the
Jesuits occupying an immense block of buildings. The Byzantine cathedral
of Notre-Dame is one of the most original edifices in France ; the baptistery,
usually called the Temple, one of the most ancient. In another church, that of
Ste. Radegonde, are shown the footprints of God Almighty. There are schools of
law and arts, but intellectual life can scarcely be said to e.'cist, nor is there much
industry. The battles of Poitiers, so called, were not fought at that place. It was
between that town and Tours, perhaps at Ste Maure, that Charles Martel annihi-
lated the army of Abd-el- Rahman in 732, whilst King John was made prisoner
by the Black Prince near the town of La Cardinerie, formerly called Maupertuis,
about 5 miles to the north of the city.
A railway connects Poitiers with the small manufacturing town of Neiivillc
(1,833 inhabitants) and with Loudun (3,986 inhabitants), the chief place in the
north-western portion of the department. Near the latter is the kistvaen of
Pierre-FoUe, 56 feet in length and 15 wide. The neighbouring castle of Moiicun-
tour recalls a defeat of the Protestants (1569).
Chdtellerault (15,244 inhabitants), on the Vienne, a few miles below its con-
fluence with the Clain, is the industrial centre of the department, where cutlery,
hardware, and small arms are manufactured. Chaurigiiy (1,911 inhabitants), on
the Upper Vienne, has valuable stone quarries and a curious old church. At
Montmorillon (4,126 inhabitants), on the Gartempe, in the extreme east of the
department, there are lime-kilns and manufactories of agricultural imple-
ments.
Deix-Sevkes has been formed out of portions of Poitou, S-iintonge, and Aunis.
Of the two rivers after which it is named, the Sevre of Niort flows direct into
the ocean ; the other is a tributary of the Loire. The hilly district of Gsitine is
not particularly well adapted for agriculture, but the breeding of horses and mules
is carried on with much success. The lowlands in the south are more fertile.
Industry is almost confined to the currying of skins and to weaving. About
one-ninth of the inhabitants are Protestants.
The level tract of country drained by the Boutonne, a tributary of the Charente,
cannot boast of large towns, for Mella, its chief place, has only 2,221 inhabitants.
It is known for its Byzantine church and for its mules. La MofJu'-St. Ileraye
(1,932 inhabitants) and St. Mfiixcnt (4,259 inhabitants), both on the Upper Sevre,
are the centres of the Protestant population of the department, and engage in the
manufacture of woollen stuff's, as well as in the breeding of horses. Niort (20,336
inhabitants), lower down on the same river, is the cajjital of the department, and
commercially as well as industrially a busy place, where the preparation of skins
and horsehair, glove-making, cotton-spinning, and the manufacture of agricultural
implements are actively carried on. The produce of its marsh gardens enjoys a
high reputation. A Gothic cathedral and the ruins of a vast castle built by the
FRANCE.
Englisn rise bigH above tbe houses lining tbe river, and pleasant walks surround
the town, which was the birthplace of Madame de Maintenon.
Parthcnay (4,212 inhabitants), the principal town on the Thouet, which flows
north to the Loire, has an old Byzantine church, and manufactures woollen stuffs.
Lower down, at Airmult, the river is spanned by an ancient bridge of eleven
arches, the oldest structure of that kind in France. Thouars (3,468 inhabitants),
still farther north, on a cliff overhanging the Thouet, has an enormous castle built
in the seventeenth century, and now used as a prison.
Bressidre (3,214 inhabitants), the capital of the northern arrondissement, has
become a great railway centre. Its huge castle, with forty-eight towers, is in
ruins, as are other buildings ; for the town suffered much during the Vendean
wars, and was captured and recaptured repeatedly.
Fig. 164.— Les Saules-u'Olonne.
Scale 1 : 62,000.
V.uW.of Paris
l°5c.'W.f Or
Vendee is named after a tributary of the Sevre of Niort, although its principal
river is the Lay. The dop irtment includes the region of granitic hills (Bocage),a
region of calcareous lowlands, and an alluvial region extending along the sea. The
islands of Yeu and Noirmoutier belong to it. Agriculture and cattle-breeding are
the principal occupations.
Fontenay-le-Comte (7,309 inhabitants), on the navigable Vendee, is an ancient
city, the inhabitants of which manufacture cloth, and carry on some commerce. At
Vouvant and Fnymoreau, in the hills, there are coal mines of no great importance.
The ancient episcopal city of Mail/rzais, on a hillock surrounded by old marshes,
lies to the south-east. Lu^oii (0,026 inhabitants) is the seat of a bishop, and has
a Gothic cathedral. A canal 10 feet deep connects it with the sea, and its export
of agricultural produce is considerable.
VENDEE. 221
Chantonnay (1,593 inhabitants) and Povzauges (1,405 inhabitants) are the only
towns in or near the valley of the Lay. Roclie-sur-Yon (9,021 inhabitants), on a
high rock on the Yon, as its name implies, was founded by Napoleon on the site
of an old castle. It possesses no attractions whatever, its importance being
entirely due to its being the seat of the departmental authorities. Until recently
it was known as Napoleon- Vendee.
Sahh's-d' Olonne (9,188 inhabitants) is the principal maritime town of the depart-
ment, and its fine beach attracts thousands of visitors during summer. The
mariners of this town are renowned for their boldness. Many of them engage in
the sardine fishery. The neighbouring country is rich in cromlechs and kistvaens,
the finest being that of Frebouchere, beyond Talmont, in the south-west. This
block of granite, supported by two rows of stones, must have been conveyed hither
from a considerable distance, but nevertheless it weighs 60 tons. Travelling north
along the coast, we pass Sf. Gilles-sur- Vie, the port of embarkation for the island of
Yeu, St. Jean de Mont, Beaiiroir-siir-Mer, and Boitin, of which only the last has
over 1,000 inhabitants. Noinnoulicr (2,080 inhabitants), on the island of the
same name, is the most populous town of this north-western corner of the depart-
ment, and carries on a brisk trade in the products of the fields.
In conclusion should be mentioned the famous windmills on the Butte-aux-
Alouettes, or Larks' Hill (758 feet), between the towns of Herbiers and Mortagne-
sur-Sevre (2,080 inhabitants), on the north-western frontier, by means of whose
arms the Royalist millers signalled the movements of the Republican troops.
CHAPTER VIT.
THE BASIN OF THE LOIRE.
General Aspects.
^^a^t^\-^ TIE vast area drained bj' the Loire belongs to three distinct regions,
iwM ^^ geologically as well as physiognomically and historically. In its
'~^" upper course the river, as .far as the " Bill" of the AUier, is shut
in by the rocks of the central plateau; in its lower course it
traverses the granitic region of Poitou and Brittany ; whilst its
middle course leads in a wide curve through the sands, clays, and marls of the
tertiary lake basin of Paris.
The river, in spite of its course of more than 600 miles, has not been powerful
enough as a geological agent to combine these three regions into a whole. Nor
is the importance of the river as a commercial highway as great as might be
expected, for, owing to its ever-changing volume, it is navigable only during a
portion of the year. Neither does the Loire coincide with any of the great his- '
torical high-roads of Europe, for its sources lie in an inaccessible mountain
region, and it discharges itself into a remote part of the Atlantic. The high-road
from Northern Europe to Spain follows the Loire from Orleans to Tours, but this
very fact proves that the river is indebted for its importance, as an international
high-road, to the position it occupies with reference to the adjoining river basins.
Touraine and the country on the Middle Loire generally have done more
towards the birth and development of the French nation than any other part of
France. Being sheltered in the south-east and west by the sterile plateau of
Central France, the hills of Morvan, and the granitic heights of Poitou, this region
was without natural defences only on its northern frontier. But in that direction
the inhabitants of Lorraine, Champagne, Picardy, and the Isle de France formed
a formidable barrier against intended invasions. It was less troubled by wars than
other parts of France, and its development consequently went on at a more rapid
• rate. The inhabitants of Touraine speak the purest " langue d'oui," and they
possess in harmonious combination the common sense and gaiety, the wit and
earnestness, which distinguish the inhabitants of other parts of France.
For many years the landscapes of Touraine were looked upon as the most
THE LOfRE.
223
charming in all France. More extensive travel has brought them somewhat into
disrepute, but if it is borne in mind that our forefathers preferred a quiet and serene
landscape to inhospitable and pathless mountains, we cannot deny the, palm to
" la belle Touraine." Verdant hills, gently undulating, bound the horizon, spark-
ling rivulets wind between elms and poplars, clumps of trees give variety to fields
and meadows, a castle peeps out from behind a screen of foliage, whilst in the
distance glitter the silvery waters of the great river. Can we imagine a land-
scape of more gentle aspect ? and was not Torquato Tasso right when he spoke of
the valley of the Loire as —
" La terra moUe e lieta e dilettosa f "
Kg. 165. — The "Bill" of the Allibr.
Scale 1 : 160,000.
2''W 0 dc Cp
, *?'
Craoe' par £fAar4i
SMilM.
The Loike.
The Loire rises in the C^vennes, and after a course of 270 miles is joined by its
twin river, the Allier, a few miles below Nevers, at the so-called " Bee," or Bill,
the volume of the Loire being but slightly superior to that of the Allier. From
its junction as far as Orleans the Loire flows to the north and north-west in the
direction of the Seine, from which it is separated by land of moderate elevation
(200 feet). Conformably to the impulsion given to its waters by the rotation of
the earth, they press upon its right bank, gnawing away the land. The right
bank, consequently, is usually steep, whilst the left is flat.
224
FRANCE.
At Orleans the Loire sweeps round to the south-west. The Loiret, which joins
it below that town, can hardly be called a tributary, for it is fed from the Loire
itself through subterranean channels. The principal rivers which enter the Loire
on the left, far below Orleans, are the Cher, the Indre, and the A^ienne, all of them
having their sources on the central plateau. Lower down still, the Maine flows
into the Loire from the north. It is formed by the junction of the Sarthe and the
Mayenne with the Loir. Each of the three head-streams traverses a distinct
geological region, whilst the united river has excavated itself a channel through
the schists of Angers, quarried for slate.
The Maine and the other tributaries of the Lower Loire, which flow through
crystalline or palaeozoic formations, join almost at right angles, whilst the rivers
Rg. 166.— The Ai thiok.
Scale 1 : 410."""
'O^ljiTV.rfGr
. 5 Miles-
winding through the tertiary formations of Orleanais and Touraine sometimes flow
for considerable distances in the same direction as the river which they are about
to join. The Cher, the Indre, and the Vienne are instances of this kind, not to
speak of minor rivers. Lateral channels, encWing willow-clad islands, form a
distinctive feature of the alluvial valley of the Loire. One of these extends for 30
miles below the confluence of the Cher; another, known as the Autbion, accom-
panies the left bank of the Loire for a distance of 40 miles.
These parallel channels, whicli extend from Blois to Ancenis, must be looked
upon as the result of the frequent inundations of the Loire. The river, when in
flood, undermines the hills bounding its valley, and thus creates lateral channels,
THE LOIRE.
225
into which its tributaries subsequently empty themselves instead of flowing direct
into the maia channel. Moreover, the immense quantity of alluvium brought
down by the river tends to the elevation of the tongues of land which separate its
tributary rivers. It has been computed that 9,000,000 cubic tons of sand are
carried past the confluence of the Loire and AUier annually, travelling down the
Fi^. 167. — La Soloone
Scale 1 : 640,0Ua
10 Miles.
river at a daily rate of 8-5 feet in summer, and of 30 feet in winter. This inces-
sant denudation and deposition explain the physical aspect of the valley of the
Loire.
If we look upon that river in summei*, when it rolls on sluggishly between
banks of sand, we can hardly conceive it possible that it should occasionally rise
twenty and more feet above its usual level, and, breaking through the embankments
52
226
FEANCE.
Fig. 168.— The Erdke.
Scale 1 : 100,000.
thrown up along it, flood the plains heyond to the extent of miles. These floods
are duo partly to the small height of the mountains from which the river is fed,
and partly to the impervious nature of the rocks which compose them. The former
prevents the formation of glaciers which could feed the river during summer ; the
latter causes the rain to run off rapidly. The volume of the river below its con-
fluence with the Allier varies, according to the seasons, between 30 and 10,000
tons a second.
Embankments for the protection of the towns and villages were thrown
up as early as the ninth century, and perhaps
earlier, and the river has not changed its bed during
the historical epoch. The embankments, however,
which lined the Loire between Orleans and Angers
up to the seventeenth century were only 10 or 12
feet in heiglit, and the floods frequently swept over
them. They have been heightened and strengthened
since that time. A double barrier, 23 feet in height,
was completed in 1783, and extends from the " Bill "
of the Allier downwards along the whole of the
^liddle Loire. These embankments suflice as a rule,
but the disastrous floods of 1841, 1856, and 1866
prove that they do not meet exceptional cases. The
river has been imprudently confined to a channel only
.^20 to 980 feet in width. When the river begins to
swell it very soon fills up this narrow channel, and
frequently overflows or breaks through the barriers
erected to confine it. As a rule the embankments on
the upper part of the river give way first. The water
then pours through them into the lateral channels of
the river, and the perils of inundation, therefore,
diminish in proportion as we descend the river, and
below the Maine they need not be dreaded at all.
There can be no doubt about the uj-gent necessity
of reconstructing the river defences, a work of no
small difficulty, as it would interfere with innumerable
conflicting private interests. The channel enclosed
between embankments must be widened so as to
enable the river, when flooded, to spread over a larger
surface ; and an interior line of dykes must be constructed to meet ordinary
freshets. In addition to this, dams should be built across the head-streams of
the Loire, in order that their water may be stored up, and its discharge regulated.
Only one dam of this kind exists as yet, above lloanne, and its eifect is satis-
factory in every respect. It is believed that if dams of this kind were to be
thrown across everv one of the valleys the Loire might be rendered navigable
during the whole of the year.
2 Miles.
THE LOIRE.
827
The aspect of the lake districts of Sologne and Brenne amply proves that the
basin of the Loire is passing through a state of geological transformation. The
plains of Sologne were formerly covered with a dense forest which absorbed the
moisture. The forests have been destroyed, and the district converted into a
region of pestilential swamps and lakes similar to theDombes, described on p. 154.
The work of draining and planting is, however, being proceeded with rapidly.
The Brenne, a similar district farther south, is likewise being drained.
In the crystalline and palaeozoic region on the Lower Loire several of the
rivers are still in a state of transition. The Erdre, for instance, which joins the
Fig. 169. — The Lake op Grand Lieu.
Scale 1 : 25J,U(X).
p^^^"T^
»?
l»WfW.OfCr
.S Miles.
lioire at Nantes, may be described as a lacustrine river. To the south of the Loire
the Lake of Grand Ijieu occupies a cavity in the granite. This hike is fed not only
by rivulets which fall into it, but also by the Loire, the level of which, at high
water, is about 3 feet higher than that of the lake. The channel which con-
nects the latter is consequently alternately an affluent and an effluent. Nay,
tradition tells us that the lake owes its existence to an irruption of the Loire, and
superstitious fishermen occasionally hear the bells of St. Herbadilla, a village now
FBAKCE.
buried beneath it. The lake covers an area of 17,000 acres, and, as its average
depth does not exceed 6 feet, it might easily be drained.
Another lake, near the mouth of the river, that of Grande Briere, is now
completely silted up. Some geologists look upon this bog as an old gulf of the
sea, with which it communicated formerly through Ptolemy's Brivates Portus.
Fig. 170.— La Grande BRiiRB.
Scale 1 : 160,000.
J4°50W nt Paris
--if l
!V; HI ^\ .)! Or
2 Miles.
whose name survives in the river Brive. In reality, however, this is a spongy
morass, similar in all respects to the bogs of Ireland, and formed in the same
manner. The peasants around it, known as " Brierons," cut about 20,000 tons of
turf annually, which is exported to all the towns of Western France, and a con-
siderable portion of which is converted into manure.
THE LOIRE.
229
The tide ascends far beyond Nantes, but the maritime estuary can be said to
begin odIv at Pellerin, about 9 miles below that town. The river thence varies
in width between 1 and 3 miles, and is obstructed by numerous ever-shifting
sand-banks and islands. Some of these latter have, in course of time, been attached
to the mainland, the most remarkable instance being that of the fete, or "head,"
upon which rises the town of Pen-Bo ("bullock's head"), called Paimboeuf in
French.
The narrows between St. Nazaire and Mindin separate the estuary from the
outer bay of the river A, bar, covered with 12 feet of water at the ebb, lies
off the mouth of this bay, the navigation of which is, moreover, obstructed by
Fig. 171 — Paimbceuf.
Scale 1 • 50.000.
t •!■«•« of P«rU
Dt^vth to > F,*t rj 'P^ is
^^^— ~— ^^^^ 1 Mile.
numerous islands and sunken rocks. The tide rises 17 feet, and the largest
vessels can consequently enter the river if they bide their time.
The northern coast of this bay has been subjected to considerable changes. In
the east, for a distance of 8 miles, the land has been washed away by the sea,
there remaining only a line of clifffi, beyond which the sea has invaded the land,
forming a va.«t gulf surrounded by shifting dunes, which in 1779 overwhelmed the
village of Escoublac. In the west an inverse process has been going on, and the
old islands of Pouliguen, Butz, and Le Croisic are now attached to the mainland,
the arm of the .sea which separated them having gradually been conveited into a
brackish swamp.
The inhabitants of Batz claim to be of Saxon or Scandinavian descent, but in
reality they do not differ from their neighbours on the plateau of Gu^rande either
in dress, customs, or language. In both districts wo meet with a number of tall,
fair, blue-eyed men. They both spoke Breton up to the close of the seventeenth
230
FRANCE.
century, a language at present restricted to a small village near Batz. The
isolation, however, in which the islanders of Batz lived for centuries gave birth to
a strong local patriotism. Their young men never looked for wives beyond their
"island," and all the inhabitants are cousins. Out of a population of 2,750
persons, nearly one-half belong to eight families, and there is one family which
can boast of 490 members. Under these circumstances family names and surnuines
do not suffice, and nearly every individual is known by some sobriquet. No ill
consequences have resulted from these consanguineous marriages, either physically
or mentally. Morally, likewise, the inhabitants of Batz enjoy a high reputation,
Fig. 172. — The Movth op the LiOIBE.
Scale 1 : 280,000.
♦• *5'W.»f Paris
I „ Z^ /ai/uaru
^^^ .. ^^ „ ci^ more.
, 6 Miles
and a local proverb says that " no bowl can be thrown in the village but stops in
front of an honest man's house."
Topography.
NiEVRE, thus named after a little river entering the Loire at Nevers, is the
modern representative of Nivernais. It is within this department that the Loire
first assumes the character which it retains throughout its middle course. The
crystalline heights of Morvan in the east are drained into the Seine. The soil is
not very fertile, but carefully cultivated. There are mineral springs, iron and coal
NIEVEE.
281
mines, clay pits, and manufactories of china, cutlery, and hardware. The iron
industry of the country dates back to a very remote age, and the remains of Gallo-
Roman forges are met with by hundreds. The population, owing to the hilly
nature of the department, is not dense. Of late years it has decreased.
Decize (3,547 inhabitants) occupies an island of the Upper Loire, and has
several iron works, supplied with coal from the neighbouring mines of La Machine
(3,091 inhabitants). Nevers ("20,601 inhabitants), the capital, occupies a favour-
able site near the junction of the Loire and AUicr, and is the centre of a busy
manufacturing district. It enjoyed some importance in the time of Julius Caesar,
but its finest edifice is the old castle of its dukes, now used as a court of justice.
The manufacture of china was introduced by the Gonzagos of Mantua, who were
proprietors of the town in the sixteenth century, and still flourishes, but the
Fig. 173. — Le Cnoisic and Batz.
Scale 1 : tSO.OOO.
1 2° 3o'\V..f Gr
21iinoil.
largest establishment is the Government arsenal for the manufacture of cannon
and artillery carriages. At Imphi/ (1,437 inhabitants), above Nevers, are iron
foundries ; at Fourchambault (5,686 inhabitants), below, iron works and a foundry ;
and at Giierigtiy (1,870 inhabitants) the Government foundry of La Chaussade. .
Travelling down the Loire we pass Pougiies, with its steel springs; the
old monastic city of Tm Clinrife (4,776 inhabitants), with an old abbey, a
" daughter " of that of Cluny, and exceedingly wealthy in the eleventh and twelfth
centuries ; Poiii/h/siir-Loire (1,939 inhabitants), with famous vineyards planted by
the monks of La Charite ; and Cosne (5,711 inhabitants).
Sf. Amniid (1,443 inhabitants), in Puisaye, at some distance from the Loire,
has potteries, while Louzy (2,560 inhabitants), to the south of it, is known for its
hardware.
232 FRANCE.
Chateau- Chilton (2,593 inhabitants), the old capital of Morvan, in the eastern
portion of the department, occupies a most picturesque site overlooking the Yonne
and the wooded heights beyond it. Descending the river just named, we reach
the'busy little town of Clamecy (4,063 inhabitants), which carries on a considerable
trade in timber.
Cher includes about one half of Berry and a small portion of Bourbonnais.
It is bounded by the Loire in the east, whilst the Cher, with its tributaries, Yevre
and Auron, traverses its western portion. The department produces corn, hemp,
and sheep, the latter noted for their fine wool. Its iron mines, yielding 274,000
tons of ore annually, are of considerable importance.
Sancet-re (2,830 inhabitants) is the only town of importance on the Loire. It
has become known through the heroic siege which its Protestant inhabitants sus-
tained in 1573. Proceeding up the Aubois, we pass Guerche (1,837 inhabitants)
and Sancoiiis (2,970 inhabitants), and following the canal of Berry, reach the valley
of Auron, the richest iron district of the department. The town of Dun- le-Roi
(4,357 inhabitants) occupies its centre.
BourgeH (31,102 inhabitants), the old capital of Berry, occupies a low site at the
confluence of the Auron with the Yevre. It is the Avaricura of the Romans, and
a councU was held here in 1225, which led to Louis VIII. taking the field against
the Albigenses. The most remarkable buildings of the town are a cathedral of the
thirteenth century ; the mansion of the silversmith, Jacques Coeur, a masterpiece
of the Renaissance, now used as a court of justice ; and the Hotel Cujas, converted
into police barracks. A vast arsenal, including a cannon foundry, a laboratory,
stores, and artillery ranges, occupies a considerable area to the east of the town.
Passing llehun (5,256 inhabitants), with its manufactories of china, and a
castle in which died Charles VII., we reach Vierzon (10,053 inhabitants), at the
confluence of the Yevre and Cher, the most important manufacturing town of the
• department, where china, glass, cutlery, textile fabrics, and agricultural machinery
are produced.
St. Amand- Mont Bond (7,719 inhabitants) is the only town of importance on
the Cher. Near it are Roman ruins, including a temple, a theatre, baths, and an
aqueduct. A castle of the Duke of Mortemart, sumptuously restored, lies to the
north of the town, in the forest of Meillant.
Indre forms a portion of the old province of Berry. The river Indre traverses
its centre, whilst its north and south are respectively drained by the Loire and the
Cher. The south of the department is occupied by granite mountains, but the
greater portion of it consists of Jurassic limestone or tertiary plains. In these
latter three districts are distinguished, viz. the Brenne, a tract abounding in ponds,
woods, and heaths ; the Bois-Chaud, a pebbly tract covered with forests ; and
the Champagne country, a limestone district, not exactly distinguished for its
fertility. The iron industry, which was of g^eat importance formerly, is declining
steadily.
Issoudun (11,293 inhabitants), the largest town in the basin of the Loire, and
one of the oldest in France, has suffered much through the revocation of the Edict
LOIEET.
283
of Nantes, but still engages in the manufacture of leather and of woollen stuffs,
drawing most of its raw materials from the surrounding country. The valley of
the Th^ls, as well as the country to the west of it as far as Vatan (2,045 inha-
bitants) and Letroux (3,293 inhabitants), abounds in prehistoric remains , and
mediaeval castles. One of these latter is at Vakngay (1,842 inhabitants), and
within its walls Napoleon confined King Ferdinand VII. of Spain.
La Chatre (4,3P4 inhabitants), on the Upper Indre, has important markets.
Near it is the village of Nohant, where Georges Sand resided. Chateauroux
(16,980 inhabitants), lower down on the Indre, and the capital of the department,
has manufactories of tobacco and army cloth. It was founded in the tenth century,
but for a long time remained inferior to the abbatial city of Beoh (2,334 inha-
Fig. 174. — OKLiAMS.
Seal" 1 : lOO.OV).
iMUe.
bitants), on the opposite bank of the river. The other towns on the Indre are
Buzf/ngak (3,470 inhabitants) and ChatiUon (2,123 inhabitants).
ArgenioH (5,003 inhabitants), on the Creuse, is an important town, having
tan-yards, cloth factories, paper-mills, and brick-kilns. Lc Blanc (4,724 inha-
bitants) has cloth factories. At Neucy St. Sepulcre (1,292 inhabitants), in a side
valley of the Creuse, there is a curious old church imitated from that of the Holy
Sepulchre at Jerusalem.
LoiRET, named after a subterranean river which rises to the surface near
Orleans, includes the greater part of old Orleanais. It occupies that portion of
France where the valleys of the Loire and the Seine approach nearest to each
other. The valley of the lioire, with its fertile fields and populous towns, traversse
the centre of the department. To the north of it lie the forest-clad hills of
Puisaye ; the Giltinais, partly wooded ; the forest of Orleans ; and the corn-fields
of Beauce. To the south of the river are the sterile sands of Sologne.
53
234 FEANCE.
Briare (3,970 inhabitants) is the first town met with on descending the Loire.
Its position at the mouth of the canal which connects the Loire with the Seine
enables it to carry on a profitable commerce. Gien (6,493 inhabitants), a few
miles lower down, has potteries. We then pass Sully (1,980 inhabitants), with an
old castle of Henri IV.'s duke ; and St. BenoH, a very important town in the
time of the Carlovingians, with the remains of an old abbey ; Chdteauneuf (2,799
inhabitants), an old residence of the Kings of France ; and Jargeau (1,558 inha-
bitants), where Joan of Arc was wounded during the siege of Orleans.
Orleans (49,896 inhabitants) is one of the great historical towns of France,
and has played a part quite out of proportion to its population. "Upon the
fate of Orleans frequently depended that of all France; the names of Cassar, Attila,
Joan of Arc, and De Guise record the sieges which it has sustained." Amongst its
ancient buildings are a tower captured by Joan of Arc during the memorable siege
of 1429 ; an old town-hall, converted into a museum ; several churches, including
a cathedral erected in the seventeenth century ; a fine town-hall of the Renaissance ;
and several noteworthy private houses. Woollen stuffs are manufactured, but the
town is prominent rather for its commerce than for its industries. The vicinity
abounds in nurseries and market gardens. Lower down on the Loire are St. Ay,
noted for its wines; Memig (3,122 inhabitants), an old town; Clery (1,225 inha-
bitants), with a church containing the tombs of Louis XL andDunois; and the
picturesque town of Beaitgency (3,901 inhabitants), frequently mentioned in mili-
tary history. Conlmiers, where a battle was fought in the last war, and Patay,
where Talbot was taken prisoner by Joan of Arc, are north of the latter.
Pithkiers (4,899 inhabitants), in Beauce, exports almond cakes and lark patties-
Passing thence through Beaune la Rolande, a place mentioned in connection with
the events of 1870, we reach Montnrgis (9,175 inhabitants), the chief place of
Gatinais, built upon several islands of the river Loing. Lorris (1,438 inhabitants),
an old town to the south-west of the latter, has become known through a code of
laws collected in the twelfth century, and for a long time in force throughout the
surrounding districts.
Loir-et-Cher is named after two rivers, which intersect its northern and
southern portions, separated by the valley of the Loire. In the north are the
corn-fields of Beauce, but the verdant hills lining the southern bank of the Loire
soon merge into the dreary plains of Sologne. About one-tenth of the area is
covered with forests, an equal area consists of heaths, and there exists but. little
manufacturing industry.
Mer (3,467 inhabitants), on the Loire, has a few vineyards. At Suhres may
be seen " sacred " stones and the remains of an ancient city ; Mrnars boasts an old
castle; and St. Denis has mineral springs similar to those of Spa. B/ois (18,188
inhabitants) is beaut fully situated upon hills overlooking the Loire. Historically
it abounds in interest. It was here the Estates of France met between 1576 and
1588, the Duke of Guise was assassinated, and Catherine de Medicis breathed her
last. The fine old castle in which these events took place has been carefully
restored. Amongst the famous children of Blois was Denys Papin, the physician,
LOIE-ET-CHER.
286
whom intolerance drove out of the country. The vicinity of Blois abounds in old
parks and castles. The old palace of Chambord, erected by Francis I., one of
the finest specimens of the Renaissance, is one of the most remarkable amongst
them. The castle of Bcaureyard, near Beuvron, is noted for its portrait gallery.
The castle of Chaumont, below Blois, surpasses all the above on account of its
picturesque site.
Romorautin (7,436 inhabitants), the principal town of the Sologne, had impor-
tant manufactories formerly, but is of little note now. On the Cher are Selles
(3,259 inhabitants); St. Aignan (2,597 inhabitants), with mills and tan-yards;
Fig. 175. — Chahtres.
Scale I : 40,000.
. 1 Mile.
ThizSe, noted for its red wines ; and Moutrichard (2,881 inhabitants), with a fine
castle. The houses of this town are constructed with a stone known as " toph of
Saumur," which is procured from the quarries of Boitrre, near the Cher.
Vcnddm-j (7,806 inhabitants), on the Loir, is the only town of note in the north
of the department. Up to the time of the Reformation it boasted of tan-yards,
woollen and glove manufactories, but its industry is nearly gone. Its fine Gothic
tower and huge castle are quite out of proportion to the number of its inhabitants.
Montoire (2,654 inhabitants), lower down on the Loir, has an old castle, and the
vicinity of both these towns abounds in Roman and prehistoric remains, including
a subterranean town, in part still inhabited.
236 FRANCE.
EuRE-ET-LoiR, named after its two principal rivers, includes the greater part
of Beauce, and is almost void of natural beauties. The western districts of Dunois,
Drouais, Thymerais, and Perche offer more varied scenery. The department is
one of the granaries of France, and famous for a line breed of horses known as
Percherons.
Chdteaudun (6,061 inhabitants), on the Loir, is the old capital of Dunois, and
boasts of an ancient castle. The other old places of note on that river are Bonneml
(2,373 inhabitants) and Cloyes (1,759 inhabitants).
Nogent-le-Rotrou (6,569 inhabitants), on the Huisne, has an old castle built by
the Counts of Perche, and manufactures textile fabrics. The villagers in the
neighbourhood engage extensively in baby-farming, and the mortality amongst
their little charges is extraordinarily large.
Chartres (20,067 inhabitants), on the Eure, the old city of the Carnutes, and
the capital of the department, has a magnificent cathedral, the two steeples of
which are visible for miles around, and several other interesting churches. The
ancient fortifications have been converted into public walks, and only one of
its fortified gates now remains. Descending the Eure, we pass Maintenon, with
an old castle. Dreiix (7,087 inhabitants), in a side valley of the Eure, is an old
seat of royalty. It contains the mausoleum of the Orleans family. In the vast
forest extending to the north of it lies the castle of Anet, which Phil'bert Delorme
built for Diana of Poitiers.
Indre-et-Loire includes nearly the whole of the old province of Touraine.
It consists of several well-marked districts, viz. the sterile tertiary plateau of
" Gatine," to the north of the Loire ; the rich alluvial tract of Varenne, between
Loire and Cher ; the elevated tract of La Champeigne, between the Cher and the
delightful valley of the Indre ; the sterile plateau of Ste. Maure, beyond the
valley ; and the cretaceous district of Veron, which extends along the Loire,
between it and the Lower Vienne.
On the Loire rise several magnificent castles, amongst which are those of
Ambohe (4,475 inhabitants), a favourite residence of the kings during the sixteenth
century; of Poc^; and of Clos-Luce, within the walls of which died Leonardo da
Vinci in 1519. Another castle equally famous rises upon an island of the Cher,
at Chenonceaux, one of the finest examples of the Renaissance, where Farmer-
General Dupin gathered around him the most famous representatives of the litera-
ture of the eighteenth century.
Tours (48,325 inhabitants) occupies a site on the narrow tongue of land lying
between the Loire and the Cher. This fine town transmits to us the name of the
old tribe of the Turones. Its Roman remains are restricted to a few remnants of
the old walls and to the foundations of an amphitheatre. The Middle Ages are
represented by a cathedr.d, the towers of St. Martin's Church, and the ruins of a
palace built by Louis XI. Amongst modern structures the fine bridge over the
Loire, which connects Tours with its suburb of St. Symphorien (2,169 inhabitants),
is the most remarkable. A statue of Descartes has been erected upon it. Tours
IB one of the most pleasant towns of France, and its librarj', museum, and scientific
INDRE-ET-LOIEE.
287
societies afford intellectual resources, but its commerce and industry are far less
than might be expected from its favourable geographical position. In the time of
Louis XI. it had a population of 80,000 souls, but its prosperity was destroyed by
the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. There are railway works, silk-mills, woollen
factories, tan-yards, and manufactories of glazed china. Candied prunes are amongst
the delicacies for which " Fat " Tours is celebrated.
Vourray (1,394 inhabitants), to the east of Tours, produces a superior wine.
Mettray (1,875 inhabitants), to the north, has a reformatory founded in 1859.
Cliateaurenaiilt (3,487 inhabitants) is the largest town in that part of the depart-
ment which lies to the north of the Loire. Its tan-yards and leather manufactures
are of considerable importance.
Descending the Loire, we pass several fine castles, including those of Lnynvn,
Vereiz, Cinq- Mars (St. Medard), and Laiigeain, the latter one of the finest examples
of the military architecture of the fifteenth century. Bourgueil (1,711 inhabitants),
Fig. 176.— TocKS.
Scale I : 260,000.
6 Miles.
on the north of the Loire, has vineyards, but the red wines grown there do not
keep,
Loches (3,689 inhabitants) is the principal town in the valley of the Indre.
In addition to a huge castle, now used as a prison, it boasts of several mediseval
buildings, including two royal castles. Montbazon and Azay-le-Rideau (1,335
inhabitants), lower down on that river, are likewise noted on acount of their old
castles.
Chiiion (4,536 inhabitants), on tho Vienne, is one of the historical towns of
France. From the time of Clovis to that of the religious wars it was one of the
most coveted fortresses. The Norman Kings of P^ngland frequently resided here,
and Charles VII. of France here assembled the Estates of his kingdom. Fearful
scenes have taken place within its walls, and a spot is still pointed out where one
hundred and fifty Jews were burnt for poisoning the wells. Rabelais was born in
the neighbourhood. Ascending the Vienne, we reach L'luk Bouchard, with
238
FEANCE.
cement works, and La Enyc, the birthplace of Descartes. At Grand Premgny,
near the latter, M. Leveille, in 1863, discovered a rich store of flint implements.
8tc. Maure (1,684 inhabitants) Hes on the steiile plateau to the north of the
Vienna. Richelieu (2,328 inhabitants), in a side valley of that river, was the birth-
place of the famous cardinal of that name. Of tlie magnificent palace which he
built himself there exist now only a few insignificant ruins.
M.^iNE-ET-LoiRE, named after the two rivers which join below Angers, includes
the most important portion of the old province of Anjou. Crystalline rocks
predominate in the east, sedimentary ones in the west, and these two zones conse-
Fig. 177. — Angers.
Scale 1 : ICO.OOO.
1 Mile,
quently diffur in their physiognomy, vegetation, systems of husbandry, and the
material used in building houses. In the east forests of some extent still exist,
but upon the whole tlie department is carefully cultivated, and wine, corn, fruit,
and cattle form important articles of export.
We begin travelling down the valley of the Loire. The first town we reaclj is
Saiimur (13,463 inhabitants), with a fine old castle, numerous church steeples, and
excellent quays along the river. The town is the seat of the great cavalry school
of the French army, almost monopolizes the manufacture of chaplets, and carries
on much trade in agricultural produce. The vicinity abounds in antiquities. The
SARTHE. 239
cromlech of Bagneux, within a mile of the town, is the finest of all Anjou. At
Doue-ln-Foidaine (3,194 inhabitants), farther to the south-east, are several other
cromlechs ; but far more famous than these are the remains of a magnificent
abbey at Fontevrault (2,651 inhabitants), now used as a house of detention.
The villages below Saumur, such as Treves, Cunault, Gennes, La Metiifre, and
St. Maur, are remarkable on account of their ruins of ecclesiastical or other old
buildings. Les Pontn-de-Ce (1,876 inhabitants), on an island, is strategically
important, as the passage of the Loire can easily be efiected here. The Authion
(see Fig. 166) joins it below that town, the principal places in its fertile valley
being Loiigue (1,876 inhabitants) and Beaufort-en-Vallee i2,680 inhabitants), both
centres of the linen industry. The best hemp of France is grown there.
A few miles below Ponts-de-C^, at La Pointe, the river Maine joins from the
north. Still travelling down the lioire, we pass Chahnnes (2,449 inhabitants) and
its coal mines ; the village of Champtoce (762 inhabitants), where Marshal Gilles
de Retz, the legendary Bluebeard, had his castle ; and the picturesque little town
of St. Florent-Ie-Vieil (958 inhabitants), with David's mausoleum of the Vendean
partisan, Bonchamps. Retracing our steps to the mouth of the Maine, we ascend
that river for 5 miles, and reach Angers (53,366 inhabitants), the capital of the
department, named after the Gallic tribe of the Andecaves, and next to Nantes
the most important town in the basin of the Lower Loire. Boulevards enclose the
old city, built around a magnificent cathedral, and suburbs stretch out beyond
them in every direction. The castle built by Louis IX. occupies the summit of a
bold rock, and there are many other medisDval buildings which impart a character
to the town. There are scientific societies and colleges, a school of art industry,
and museums, amongst which that containing a collection of the works of the
sculptor, David of Angers, is perhaps the most interesting. Comnnrci and
industry flourish. There are foundries and linen and sail-cloth manufactories. The
nurseries and market gardens in the neighbourhood are famous throughout France,
and the vineyards of Sf. Barthilemy, Rochefort, St. Georges, and Serrant enjoy a
high reputation. The slate quarries (ardoisi^res), to the east of the town, are the
most important in France, yielding about 200,000,000 slates annually.
Segre (2,212 inhabitants) and Bauge (3,318 inhabitants) are the only towns of
any importance in the north of the department.
Cholet (12,335 inhabitants), in the south-west, on a tributary of the Sevre,
suffered much during the Vendean war, but recovered rapidly from its disasters.
It is now one of the centres of the linen and woollen industry of France, besides
which it carries on a brisk trade in cattle. The surrounding villages are dependent,
in a large measure, upon the manufactories of Cholet, as are also Beaupreau (2,579
inhabitants), on the Evre, and Chemille (3,073 inhabitiints).
At Thouarc^, on the Layon, are Roman ruins ; wliilst Brissac, on the Aubance,
boasts of a sumptuous castle built in the seventeenth century.
Sarthe includes portions of the old j^rovinces of Maine, Anjou, and Perche.
The Sarthe, which flows west through a hilly district, and the Loir, the valley of
which is bounded by low chalk cliffs, drain the department into the Loire.
240
FRANCE.
Jurassic limestones, chalk, and tertiary formations predominate. Agriculture is
the principal occupation, the land being cultivated for the most part by farmers.
Its geese, pullets, and capons are famous throughout France.
Fiar. 178. — The Slate Quarries near An-geks.
Le Mam (45,709 inhabitants) occupies an elevated site at the confluence of the
Hmsne with the Sarthe. It is a prosperous town. Roman towers and a magnifi-
cent cathedral attest its antiquity, but its numerous factories prove that it is
SARTHE.
941
abreast of modern times. Hardware, agricultural implements, linens, and other
textile fabrics are manufactured. FresHay-le-Vicomte (3,010 inbabitants), on the
Upper Sartbe, at the foot of a tottering fortress, manufactures linens, whilst Sahli
(5,334 inhabitants), on the Lower Sarthe, has marble quarries, manufactories of
farinaceous preparations, and cattle fairs. Within a couple of miles of it is the
famous abbe\' of Soksmes, founded in the thirteenth century.
SitU-le-Giiilhiume (2,995 inhabitants) and Loue, two small towns to the west of
the Sarthe, engage iu the manufacture of linen, an industry likewise carried on
Fig. 179.— Le Mans.
Scale 1 : au,UOO.
■ I MUe.
in the picturesque town of Mnmera (5.147 inhabitants), and at Bonnitahle (3,185
inhabitants), to the east of that river.
La Ferte-Bernard (-2,034 inhabitants) is the principal town in the beautiful
valley of the Huisne. At Dtnieaii, near it, may be seen a remarkable cromlech.
L(i Fliche (7,468 inhabitants), on the Loir, is the seat of a military school
oecupyingthe old Jesuit college in which Descartes was educated. Higher up on
that river are Le Lmle (2,720 inhabitants), with a fine modern mansion ; Chateau-
du-Loir (2,527 inhabitants), inhabited by clog-makers, quarrymeu, and tanners j
242 FRANCE.
and Chartre, where there are several subterranean habitations. North of the Loir
are icommoy (1,841 inhabitants), Mmjet (1,631 inhabitants), and St. Calais (3,000
inhabitants).
Mayexne lies almost wholly within the basin of the river whose name it bears,
and which, lower down, is known as Maine. Geologically it forms a part of
Brittany. There are slate quarries, coal mines, and lime-kibis. The linen
industry is of importance, but more so the cultivation of the soil and the breeding
of cattle.
Mayenne (8,826 inhabitants) is the chief town in the north of the department.
The manufacture of linen occupies several thousand workmen in the town and the
villages near it, and there are also cotton-mills, flour-mills, and lime-kilns. Ernee
(3,866 inhabitants) and Chailland (518 inhabitants), both on the river Ernee, which
enters the Mayenne from the west, are likewise engaged in the linen industry.
Juhlaim, a village to the south-east of Mayenne, is the old capital of the Aulerci-
Diablintes, and, in addition to a magnificent cadeUum, possesses other Roman ruins
of the highest interest.
Laval (25,110 inhabitants) is a delightful city on both banks of the Mayenne,
surrounded by shady walks and fine gardens. Ambroise Par^, the " father of
French surgeons," was a native of the place, and a monument has been erected in
his honour. Several thousand workmen are engaged in tlie manufacture of fancy
ticking, and there are also marble works and lirae-kilns. Coal is worked at
Germanchieres, to the west of Laval ; whilst the rocks of Coevrons, above the fine
old city of Evron (3,433 inhabitants), yield porphyry, granite, kaolin, and man-
ganese. Ste. Suzanne, a village near Evron, still possesses its media3val castle and
walls.
Chatean-Gontier (7,218 inhabitants) on the Lower Mayenne, is a great agricul-
tural mart, and its ferruginous springs attract a certain number of visitors. Craon
(3,874 inhabitants), to the west of it, was the birthplace of Volney. It is famous
for its pigs and its breed of horses. Coal mines and slate quarries are near it.
Loire-Imfkrieure is intersected by the Lower Loire and its estuary. Historically
and geologically it belongs to Brittany, but the peasantry have long ago discarded
the use of the Breton tongue, and commercial interests have alienated the country
from Brittany. The department is rich in horses and cattle, agriculture and
gardening are carried on with much success, while industry and commerce flourish.
Nantes (116,093 inhabitants), one of the great commercial towns of France,
dates back to a time far anterior to that of the Romans, and bears the name of the
Gallic tribe of the Namnetes. Its position, at a point where the rivers Erdre and
Sevre join the Loire, is exceedingly favourable for commerce, especially as sea-
going vessels can reach its fine quays with every tide. Its most remarkable
buildings are a castle on the river bank, a Gothic cathedral, and modern palatial
edifice, beneath the roof of which have been brought together tlie library,
museum, and art collections of the town. The public park is one of the finest.
Historically the name of the town is connected with the Edict of Nantes, promul-
gated by Henri IV. in 1598, but revoked by Louis XIV. in 1685. As a maritime
LOIR E-INFi:RIEUEE.
9tf
port the town is losing ground since the introduction of larger vessels, for only
those drawing less than 10 feet of water can safely venture up the river. At the
same time it must not be forgotten that the commerce of St. Nazaire, at the mouth
of the river, is carried on almost exclusively by Nantes firms. In former times
Nantes supplied the French West Indies with slaves, taking sugar in return, and
up to the present time its intercourse with these colonies is very active. It is the
great colonial depot of the valley of the Loire, and its sugar refineries only yield
to those of Paris and Marseilles. Iron foundries, lead and brass works, oil-mills,
Fig. 180.— Nantes.
Boole 1 : 66,000.
. 1 Mile.
soap works, machine shops, a tobacco manufactory, ship-yards, and other industrial
establishments give employment to thousands of workmen. Other thousands
work in the granite quarries above the suburb of Chantenaij (8,490 inhabitants).
The preservation of food annually increases in importance. The valleys of the
Erdre and Sevre abound in fine old castles and modern country mansions, the
latter more especially around C/isson (2,241 inhabitants).
AnceiiiH (4,008 inhabitants) is the only town on the Loire above Nantes.
Descending the river, we pass Iiidre (2,229 inhabitants) and the island of Indret,
244
FRANCE.
with an old castle and a Government manufactory for marine engines ; Coueron
(1,063 inhabitants) and its lead works; and reach Savenay (1,703 inhabitants), a
small town built on a bluiF to the north, affording a magnificent prospect over the
estuary of the Loire. Paimbieuf {2,473 inhabitants) lies opposite, but its harbour
is hardly ever now visited by merchantmen since docks have been excavated at Si.
Nazaire (14,761 inhabitants), at the mouth of the river, and 30 miles below
Fig. 181.— St. Nazaiee.
Scale 1 : 30,000.
2°IU"WrfGr.
Jilile.
Nantes. This town has sprung up rapidly since 1856 around a Breton village,
and packet steamers connect it with the West Indies and other parts of the world.
In reality, however, it is merely an outport of Nantes, to which most of the mer-
chandise is forwarded immediately after it has been landed. Its environs consist
of barren heaths, and the town is very much in want of good drinking water.*
• Value of imports (1875) at St. Nazaire, £13,240,000; at Nantes, £2,800,000; of exports at St.
Nazaire, £2,680,000, at Nantes £.',200,000.
LOIRE-IXFEEIEUEE. 246
The district to the west of St. Nazaire, with its primitive inliabitants, its ever-
changing coast, and its salt swamps, yielding about 3(j,000 tons of suit a year, is
one of the most interesting in France. Its principal towns are Crohie (1,981
inhabitants), much frequented by seaside visitors, and Guerande (2,415 inhabitants),
still surrounded by turreted walls. On the wide bay to the south of the Loire, in
the district of Retz, are Boiirgiieuf (817 inhabitants) and Pornic, a rising seaside
resort, with numerous pretty villas.
Chateaiibriant (4,082 inhabitants) is the only place of importance in the north
of the department, its old walls and gabled houses offering a curious contrast to
its modern court of justice and manufactories. Agricultural progress, too,
changes the face of the country, and large tracts of heath in the vicinity of the
agricultural school of Granc^ouan have been converted into productive laud.
CHAPTER VIII.
BRITTANY (BRETAGNE).
General Aspects.
RITTANY and Cotentin, the two peninsulas of "Western France,
arc geologically of the same origin, and, together with Poitou
and Cornwall, are the principal remaining portion of a huge
granitic island, which also included Poitou and Cornwall, and was
separated from the continent by an arm of the sea extending to
the Vosges and the plateau of Central France. An irruption of the Atlantic
severed the French portion of this ancient island from that lying beyond the
Channel. The ocean incessantly lashes the broken coast of these peninsulas, but
their granitic rocks are better able to resist its onslaughts than is the calcareous
soil of Normandy and Saintonge.
The climate and physical aspects of these two peninsulas are the same, but
their political history has been very different. The Bay of St. Michel completely
separates Brittany from Cotentin ; and the latter being too small of extent to lead
an independent life, and moreover easy of access, very soon cast in its lot with that
of the population of Northern France. Brittany, on the other hand, offered a
stubborn resistance to every attempt at assimilation. Thanks to its remoteness —
far away from the great high-roads of nations — it was able to maintain i-ts old
customs and its Celtic tongue. The stubborn resistance offered by the Bretons to
foreign encroachments was maintained for centuries. The English, though masters
of Anjou and of Normandy, never succeeded in firmly establishing themselves in
Brittany ; and long after that province had become French it maintained its
ancient customs, and down to the present day it is distinguished for many pecu-
liarities.
Rocks, tortuous valleys, heaths, and forests separate Brittany from the rest of
France, and the readiest access to it is afforded by the sea. Its many fine harbours
facilitated the creation of a mercantile marine, and the frequent wars between
England and France afforded an opportunity to the Bretons for exhibiting their
prowess at sea. The rivalry between them and the " Bretons " on the other
side of the channel fed their local patriotism, whilst frequent intercourse with
GENERAL ASPECTS.
247
other maritime districts of France created amongst them a French national
feeling.
In its general features, Brittany consists of two hands of granite, gradually
approaching each other in the west, the triangular space between them being
occupied by ancient sedimentary formations.
The crystalline, fern-clad heights to the west of the Lower Loire, known as the
Sillon (" furrow ") of Brittany, may be described as the edge of a plateau rather
than a chain of hills. The Vilaine haff excavated itself a passage through the
granitic heights, which farther west form the range known as the Landes of
Lanvanx (574 feet). The granites finally give place to schists, which form the
Black Mountains of Brittany, thus called after the forests which formerly covered
them. They culminate in the bold Meuez-Hom (1,083 feet), on the peninsula of
Crozon.
The northern granitic range of Brittany is far more complicated in its structure
Fig. 182.— The Landes of Lanvaix.
Soule 1 : 6SO,000.
5" ^^ of Paris, 1
^
E_ j'i^ ~^ ^ .^gEif' \i , Ij Va &^
|l ^%*%
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^^^fe"
AtntMB
M^r '''^'^^'^SmF^^^V^viimM^^ ^\^L
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2«W WofCr.l 1
10 Miles.
than that of the south. From the plain intersected by the canal of the lUe the
country gradually rises to the heights of Le Men^ (1»116 feet) ; but beyond these
extends a vast ledge of granite, until we reach the fine range of Arree and its
sandstone peak of St. Michel (1,284 feet), the most prominent hill of Brittany.
The vale enclosed between these granitic heights is traversed by several rivers,
communication between which has been established by means of a canal, which
connects the Lower Loire with Brest, but has now been superseded by railways.
Brittany generally gives an impression of monotonous grandeur ; and Brizeux,
a native poet, addresses it as the '' land of granite and of oaks." But the country
is not withou"; landscapes more pleasing to the eye — heaths and fields, shady lanes,
tranquil rivulets, half-hidden lakelets, and old walls covered with ivy. On the
seashore other sights greet the eye, and nothing can be more impressive than the
billows of the Atlantic rushing upon the clifl's of Finistere. With a lowering sky
the physiognomy of the country is sombre in the extreme, but the sun imparts to
248
FRANCE.
it an aspect of quiet cheerfulness impossible to describe. The Bretons themselves
yield completely to these impressions, and home sickness is frequent amongst them
when abroad.
The Coast.
Ancient Armorica, the " Land of the Sea," fully merits its Celtic appellation, for
to the sea it is indebted for its climate and for most of its resources, and the sea
has shaped the temper of its inhabitants. OflF the western promontories of Brit-
tany the gulf-stream encounters the secondary ocean current, which sweeps the
Fig. 183. — MoRBiHAX.
Scale 1 : 240,000.
Miles.
shores of the Bay of Bisca)'. The tides are violent and irregulir, and the sea is
perpetually in motion down to its very bottom. A powerful under-current running
along the northern coast sweeps the granitic sea-bottom, piling up the sand and
mud in the east. Some of the rocks forming these are but ill adapted to resist the
action of the sea, and enormous blocks of rock have tumbled down from the cliff's
In the west, where sedimentvry strata intervene between the two bands of granitic
rocks, the encroachments of the sea have been most considerable. The roadsteads
of Brest and Douarnencz penetrate deeply into the land, and almost resemble
Norwegian fiords, half obliterated by alluvium brought down by the rivers which
enter them. To the west of the estuary of the Vilaine this contest between the
THE COAST.
249
elements has given birth to a land-locked bay known as the Morbilian, or "little
sea.'' Islands are scattered over it, some of them inhabited, and all subject to
continual changes. M. E. Desjardins is of opinion that this inland bay is of com-
Pig. 184. — Thk Peninsula of Quiberon.
Scale 1 : 100,000.
«• llO-W of Cr
i*|f
paratively recent creation. A subsidence otf the land has certainly taken place
there, for cromlechs have been discovered which do not even uncover at low
water. The numerous islands at the mouth of this buy indicate the direction of
54
250
FRANCE.
the old coast, and farther off a still more ancient coast-line may be traced in the
islands lying between the Points of Croisic and of Quiberon. These islands, as
well as the elongated peninsula of Quiberon, certainly murk the extent of Brittany
in some bygone age. As to the peninsula mentioned, a causeway and sands sub-
merged by each flood alone attach it to the mainland.
The island of Groix and the small archipelago of Glenan mark the extent of
the old coast to the west of Quiberon. Tradition tells us that the nine islets of
Glenan are the fragments of a larger island. As to the large island of Belle-Ile,
or Guerveur, farther off the shore, it is, with the island of Yeu and the sunk rock
of Rochebonne, the only remaining witness of a coast-line even more ancient than
those noticed above.
Doubling the bold headland of Penmarch, or the "horse's head," we enter the
Fig. 185. — Thb Headland of Cohnouaillb.
Scale 1 ; 400,000.
Dt^r^th. S ^U4/iomj-
^^_^^^ 5 Miles.
JJtfOAapcr WJiUJKins
desolate Bay of Atidierne. Not a tree grows upon the heights which surroimd it,
and no traces of cultivation greet the eye. The headland of Cornouaille (Cornwall),
to the north of that bay, juts far out into the sea. Standing upon its summit, no
less than 262 feet above the sea, we are not beyond the reach of the spray, and the
ground is felt to shake beneath our feet. The waves dash into the Enfer (hell) of
Plogoff, at its foot, creating a sound like thunder, and at the neighbouring Bay of
Trepass(5s the superstitious mariner fancies he hears the voices of the drowned
rising above the howling storm and the roar of the waves. To our ancestors this
uproar sounded like the voice of a god, whom nine Druid virgins sought to pro-
pitiate by leading a life of devotion upon the weather-beaten island of Sein. If
tradition can be believed, many a town has been swallowed up by the waves in
that part of the country. The Bay of Douarnenez is said to mark the site of the
THE COAST. 261
ancient city of Is ; and a causeway of Roman construction, leading to some place
now submerged, may still be traced near the Bay of Trepasses.
The island of Ouessant occupies a position analogous to that of Sein, with
reference to the headland of Leon. This cliff-bound island is cultivated, but not a
tree, not a shrub grows upon it. Mariners dread to approach it, for rocks abound,
the tides and winds are most irregular, and dense fogs prevail. But though the
passages separating Ouessant and the neighbouring islets are full of danger, they
give access to the maguificent road of Brest, where four hundred vessels find a
secure shelter.
Several small islands and rocks on the north coast of Brittany enable us to
trace the old line of coast. The dreaded granitic headland, known as " Swords -of
Treguier," near Brehat, has offered a powerful resistance to the waves, but the
coast farther east has been encroached upon in many parts. In the Bay of
St. Brieuc alone no less than 120 square miles of land have been swallowed up
since the fifth century. Traces of ten Gullo- Roman buildings have been discovered
at various spots on the beach, and the old walls on the Cape of Erquy, which
bounds the bay on the east, are supposed to be the remains of the town of Reginea
mentioned on Peutinger's Table. The island of Cezembre, at the mouth of the Bay
of St. Malo, formed a portion of the mainland in the twelfth century, and even
more recently. Submerged forests and bogs are met with at different points of
this coast, and the recovery of the trees buried for centuries beneath the sands
of the beach occupies many of the poorer inhabitants of St. Malo. The remains of
buildings discovered in the Bay of St. Brieuc prove, however, that the encroach-
ment of the sea is not exclusively due to its erosive action ; a subsidence of the
land has evidently contributed to that result.
If tradition and old chronicles are to be believed, the encroachments of the sea
have been formidable indeed. The archipelago of Chausey is stated in the " Lives
of the Saints " to have formed part of the mainland in the beginning of the eighth
century, the area now covered by the sea being then occupied by a vast forest
known as Smciactim iiemiis. Thus much is certain — that a forest formerlj' covered
what is now the beach of the Bay of St. Michel. The names of villages which
stood in that forest have been handed down to us, and at low water traces of them
may sometimes be seen. Nowhere else in the world, the estuary of the Severn
and the Bay of Fundy alone excepted, does the tide attain so extraordinary a
height as in the Bays of St. Malo and St. Michel, where it rises 40, and even
50 feet. In the course of six hours it invades the beach of the latter bay, con-
verting the rock of St. Michel, with its picturesque castle, into an island. Man,
however, has undertaken not only to put a stop to the further encroachments of the
sea, but also to recover some of the land already swallowed up by it. The
interesting hill of Dol, with its numerous remains of prehistoric animals, formerly
stood in the midst of the sea, but 3,500 acres surrounding it have been converted
into productive land. Embankments -30 feet in height, and constructed since
the eleventh century, now extend for a distance of 30 miles along the southern
shore of the Bay of St. Michel, and the recovery of the sandy beach lying beyond
252
FRANCE.
them is not considered a hopeless enterprise. The greatest obstacle to this recon-
quest is not offered by the sea, but by the rivers which flow into the bay, and for
which an outlet must be provided.
Elsewhere on the coast of Brittany man has had to guard against an invasion
of moving sand-hills. The dunes of St. Pol-de-Leon are the most formidable, but
having been planted with trees, they no longer cause anxiety. The sand com-
posing these and other dunes in Brittany is unusually rich in carbonate of lirae.
Fragments of shells and seaweed enter largely into their composition, and the
traez, or calcareous sand, carried thither by the winds actually constitutes an
element of wealth, being most useful as manure.
Seaweeds are collected all along the coast, to be applied to the fields ; and in the
bogs of Cancale and St. Michel the peasants annually take up 500,000 tons of
Fig. 186. — The Bay of St. Michel. '
Scale 1 : 500,000. '
. 5 Jliles.
mud mixed with fragments of shells, which they spread over their fields. These
fertilising agents are all the more appreciated as the crystcdline and palajozoic
rocks of Brittany contain hardly any lime at all.
The fishing grounds of Brittany are amongst the most productive of France.
The peasants of Quimper and Ch&teaulin formerly almost lived upon salmon, and
farm-laboui-ers objected to their being required to eat it more than thrice a week.
Thousands of men are engaged in the coast fisheries, yielding herring!^, sardines,
mackerel, lobsters, and oysters ; and Breton fishermen, inured to the hardships
of a seafaring life, annually visit the fishing grounds of Newfoundland and
Iceland. Many amongst them work in the fields during winter, or collect sea-
weed, but early in spring engage themselves as siiilors on board the vessels
proceeding to the Arctic regions. The four departments of Brittany supply the
mercantile marine of France with one-fifth of its sailors.
J
a
X
a
3
o
s
INHABITANTS.
268
Inhabitants.
The inhabitants of Brittany differ from those of the rest of France in language.
Dianners, and social condition.
Fig. 187. — Br«tok Peasants.
In Armorica, a remote region but little visited, ancient customs maintained
themselves longer than in the more accessible parts of France, and the Druids
enjoyed most power. The modern Bretons are no doubt, to a large extent, the
254
FEANCE.
descendants of these ancient Armoricans, but kindred Celtic tribes, driven from
Great Britain through the invasion of the Anglo-Saxons, settled amongst them-
These now arrivals founded the towns of St. Brieuc, St. Malo, and others. Being
superior in inteUigence to the aboriginal population, they soon gained a prepon-
derance, and Armorica became Brittany, or Little Britain. The descendants of
these immigrants still differ from other Bretons. They are tall, fair, and blue-
eyed, these features being most prominent on the islands of Batz and Ouessant.
The Bretons living to the south of the northern coast range are less tall, brown-
complexioned, and have round heads ; but they, too, have dark blue eyes. Some
of the inhabitants of the islands and of remote districts are said to be of a different
Fiff. 188.— Approximate Extent of the Bketon Tongue.
_^J*^ J?!"w.;^»i
PW.of Cr.
origin. As a rule the Bretons bear a striking rcsembhince to the LimousiTis and
other inhabitants of the plateau of Central France. Tliey have even been likened
to the Kabyls of Algeria. Dr. Bodichon, himself a Breton, says that " the Breton
of pure blood has a thick skull, a palish yellow skin, a brown complexion, black
or brown eyes, a squat build, and black hair. Tie, like the Kabyl, is stubborn
and indefatigable, and his voice has the same intonation."
The Celtic, or Breizad, spoken by the Bretons, is akin to Welsh. There are
four dialects, those of Tr^guier, L^on, Cornouaille, and Vannes ; and considerable
jealousies exist between those who speak them, as is proved by uncomplimentary
expressions like these: " A thief like a Leonard ! " "a traitor like a Tregorrois ! "
INHABITANTS. 255
" a blockhead like a Vannetais ! " and " a brute like a Cornouaillais ! " The litera-
.ture of Brittany is poor, and cannot compare in antiquity or wealth with that of
Fig. 189. — Women op Caxcali.
Ireland or Wales. Only one weekly paper is published in Breton French is
spoken in Brest and the towns nfoncrally, and is gaining ground rapidly amongst
the peasants, most of whom can converse now with the " gentlemen " whom
256 FRANCE.
formerly they hated so much. Still the houndary between the French-speaking
Bretons, or " Gallots," in the east, and the Bretons proper, has changed but little
since the twelfth century. An examination of a map almost enables us to draw
the line dividing the two languages. On the one side we meet with French
names, or with Breton ones accommodated to French tongues ; on the other,
with pure Breton names only, such as begin with aber (mouth), cone (port, conch-
shell), car, caiir, or ker (fortress, manor-house), coat, or cott (wood), km (conse-
crated ground), loc (place, hermitage), les (court of justice), mene (hill), mor (sea),
penn (head), plS, pfeu, or plow (people, tribe), ros (coast), &c.
The manners of the Bretons, though peculiar in many respects, do not essen-
tially differ from what may be met with in other remote localities of J'rance. Brit-
tany, in fact, presents us with a fair likeness of mediajval France. As Michelet
says, " The Bretons have only been estranged from us because they have adhered
most faithfully to what we were originally ; they are not much French, but very
much Gaul."
Old pagan customs still survive, and the peninsula of Pontusval, in Leonais, has
been known as ar puyaniz, or the " land of the pagans," down to the present time.
But there are many other parts of the province where fountains and large trees
remain objects of veneration, and the mistletoe has lost none of its pristine virtue.
The ancient sanctuaries have been converted into chapels, but the old divinities
survive under other names. Our Lady of Hatred, the patroness of a chapel
near Treguier, is the Christian representation of a ferocious Celtic deity, whom
women invoke to destroy a detested husband, and to whom children pray for the
death of aged parents. St. Ives the Truthful, on the other hand, is appealed to
as the defender of orphans and widows, and to redress all wrongs.
Dolmens, or cromlechs, are revered as the tombstones of powerful men, and
raised stones, which no peasant pas.ses by without crossing himself, abound through-
out the country. The peasants near Auray, when suffering from rheumatism, lie
down on an alt.ir, invoking the aid of St. Etienne. Elsewhere they rub the
forehead with " sacred " stones when suffering from headache. Young people
still dance around the dolmens, and married couples furtively touch one of these
stones in order thai their posterity may prosper. The great grave-hill near
Carnac, 140 feet in height, is visited by sailors' wives to pray for their husbands.
In 1658 the Breton clergy solemnly declared that the devil alone could profit
from food offerings placud upon those dolmens : since that time many of them
have become objects of superstitious fear instead of veneration.
Topography.
MoRBiHAN is richer in ancient stone monuments than any other department of
Brittany, and its towns are more original in their aspect. Breeding cattle
is of great importance. Heaths occupy a vast area even now, and most of the
peasants keep bees. Rye, buckwheat, fish, and shell-fish constitute the principal
articles -of food.
MOEBIHAN.
257
The enstem portion of the department lies within the basin of the Vilaine and
its tributary, the Oust, lioclie- Bernard is a small port near the mouth of the
Fig. 190. — LORIENT AND P0RT-L0UI8.
Scale 1 : 150,000.
••''■W-rfPapij
^»''^.r::x.> -^
*ii ■■:%
W
i7 :^-v-- V
.■'^" -j'^"^^- l.<rtm
t;
mliclic
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I MUo.
Vilaine, here spanned by a bold suspension bridge, which offers no obstacle to
sailing-vessels proceeding up the river to Redon. Ploerinel (2,790 inhabitants)
258 FKANCE.
18 the principal town in the valley of the Oust, with remains of ancient walls and
a church of the sixteenth century. Josselin (2,522 inbabitants), higher up on the
Oust, is commanded by a fine castle. A pyramid, half-way between these towns,
marks the site of the " Battle of the Thirty," fought in 1531, between the
champions of Beaumanoir and Baraborough. Rohan, with ruins of a castle, has
given its name to one of the most powerful families of France.
VanvcH (15,716 inhabitants), the capital of the department, on a creek of the
Bay of Morbihan, resembles a large village rather than a town, but boasts of a
museum rich in local antiquities. Auray (4,335 inhabitants), on another creek of
the bay named, is famous on account of its oyster beds. The sardine fisheries
occupy many of the inhabitants, and annually, at the commencement of the fishing
season, a nautical procession is formed, headed by the priests, who solemnly bless
the sea. A chapel near the town is much visited by pilgrims. In the neighbour-
hood was fought the battle which terminated the Breton war of succession (1364).
Port-Nacalo and Locmariaker are two villages at the mouth of the Bay of Morbihan.
Near the former rises the artificial hill of Turaiac, 66 feet in height, and the
latter boasts of a remarkable dolmen (see Fig. 8). Other dolmens of note are met
inland, near the villages of Elcen (756 inhabitants) and Grand Champ (668 inha-
bitants), as well as on the peninsula of Ruis, remarkable, moreover, for its mild
climate. Around Sarzeau (840 inhabitants), the birthplace of Lesage, laurel-trees,
camellias, myrtle-trees, and pomegranate-trees grow in the open air.
The western portion of the department is drained by the river Blavet, rendered
navigable as far as Pontiiy (6,402 inhabitants), formerly known as Napoleon-
ville, and consisting of a Breton quarter, with quaint houses, and the military
blocks adjoining it. Vessels of 200 tons ascend the Blavet as far as Hennebont
(4,844 inhabitants), 6 miles above Lorient (31,000 inhabitants), the largest town
of the department, and its busiest port. The harbour of Lorient is accessible to
vessels of the largest size ; and in the beginning of the eighteenth century, whilst
the French East India Company existed, its commerce exceeded that of everv
other port of France. The compsmy failed in consequence of the progress made by
the English in India, and its ships, dockyards, and arsenal became the property of
the State. It is still one of the five great military ports of France. The inha-
bitants are much interested in the sardine fishery. Port-Louis (3,262 inhabitants),
at the mouth of the Blavet, is a dependency of Lorient. Its citadel has frequently
served as a prison of state, as has also that of Ze Palais (2,823 inhabitants), the
capital of Belle-Ile-cn-Mer.
FiMsTEKK, or " Land's End," is the westernmost department of France. To
its moist and mild climate it is indebted for its fertility, and plants grow luxu-
riantly wherever there is soil to root in. The coast district, known as the
" Golden Belt," is carefully cultivated by small proprietors, but many of the large
estates in the interior consist of barren heaths. Agriculture and the breeding
of cattle and horses constitute the wealth of Finistere. There are also quarries of
granite and slates, but the argentiferous lead mines are no longer worked. The
fisheries are of considerable importance.
FINISTEEE.
259
Quimperli, a pretty town of 4,080 inhabitants, is the first place met with on
crossing from Morbihan into Finistere. Its port is accessible only to small coast-
ing vessels. Then follows the village of Pont-Aceii, with numerous windmills.
Fig. 191. — CONCARNEAU.
Scale 1 : 33,000.
ff";i:."\S»f Var
- .' "i •*»- a .
... ^... .......
\\ Miles.
Concnrnrnn (4,614 inhabitants), on the wide Bay of Fouesnant or Forest, is one of
the great fishing towns of Brittany. Its maritime fauna is exceedingly rich, and
an aquarium has been established to enable scientific men to study it.
Quimjier (13,879 inhabitants), the capital of Cornouaille, has a tidal harbour.
230
FRANCE.
and boasts of a highly venerated cathedral, dedicated to St. Corentin. An
aoricultural college and a drainage and irrigation school have been established
there. Quimper was the birthplace of Kergueleu, the navigator, and of Laennec,
the physician. The surrounding country abounds in natural curiosities, and the
manners of the inhabitants are very primitive. Bviec (482 inhabitants), a village
to the north, is noted for its "double nags," which amble naturally. Pont I' Abbe
(3,827 inhabitants) is one of the most old-fashioned towns of Brittany, and at the
village of Penmarch we meet with the ruins of a considerable town. Audierne
(1,627 inhabitants) is likewise a decayed city, but Bomrnencz (8,687 inhabitants)
has become one of the principal quarters of the sardine fishery, which employs
800 boats and several thousand men. The wide Bay of Douaruenez is bounded in
Fia;. 192. — Brest.
the north by the peninsula of Crozon (824 inhabitants), beyond wlixh a narrow
gullet leads into the magnificent roadstead of Brest.
Brest (66,828 inhabitants) is the most populous town on the Atlantic seaboard
between Havre and J^antes, and next to Toulon the greatest naval arsenal of
France. Its aspect, however, is very diiferent from that of the delightful city of
Provence. It is almost sinister, and from afar only uniform ramparts and cannon
are visible. The estuary of the Penfeld, hardly more than 300 feet wide, forms
the port of the town. On its right rises a castle of the thirteenth century, very
much older than the modern fortifications built by Vauban. The shabby buildings
on the left contain marine stores. Passing beneath a swing-bridge, the estuary
winds for more than a- mile between stores, workshops, and ship-yards. Hugo
basins have been excavated in the solid rock, and a breakwater nearly a mile in
length has recently been constructed. Steamers connect Brest with New York,
but the commerce of the town is not of much importance.
COTES-DU-NOED. 261
The vicinity of Brest and of its industrial suburb of Lamhezellec (2,243 inhabit-
ants) abounds in remarkable sites. Ascending the Elorn, we have Plougastel-Daoulas,
with its orchards and market gardens, on the right, and reach Landerneau (6,965
inhabitants), with a large linen-mill, and St. Marfyre, famous on account of its
horse fairs. The river Aulue, which likewise enters the road of Brest, leads past
Le Faoti and Port-Launay to Chateaulin (2,211 inhabitants), near which are slate
quarries. On the Aven, a tributary of the Aulne, stands Carhctix (2,296 inha-
bitants), the Roman Vorganium, where seven roads meet. Passing through the
narrow gullet which connects the road of Brest with the open Atlantic, we notice
Camaret, an old oulport, on the left, and the small creek of Minou, the terminus
of an Atlantic cable, on the right. Doubling Point St. Matthieu, surmounted by
the ruins of a church, we pass in succession Conquet, a favourite bathing-place ;
Aher-IIJut, where there are granite quarries; Aber-BeiwH ; anA Abrr-Wrach.
Lesneven (2,437 inhabitants), near which is the church of Folgoet, much frequented
by pilgrims, lies some distance inland.
Morlaix (13,519 inhabitants), on the Dossen, has a tidal harbour, and vessels of
several hundred tons are able to anchor close to the stores and miiuuf.ictories which
line both banks of the river. The most remarkable building of the town is a rail-
way viaduct, which, at a height of 190 feet, passes over the river and the houses
of the town. Moreau was born at Morlaix in 1763, and the traveller Lejean is a
native of Plouegat-Guerrand, near Lanmeur, to the north-east of the town.
Descending the river, we pass the castle of Taureau, on an island at its mouth, built
in the sixteenth century as a defence against the English, but now used as a prison.
St. Pol (3,503 inhabitants), the old capital of Leonais, has two magnificent
churches, but has otherwise lost all importance. The environs, protected by
embankments, are exceedingly fertile, lioscoff (1,282 inhabitants), the old harbour
of Leonais, is known on account of a fig-tree, which has grown to extraordinary
proportions. The vegetables grown around it are exported to Paris, London, and
Rotterdam. The sea abounds in fish, and a zoological station, similar to that at
Concameau, has been established.
CoTES-DU-NoKD, " north coast," is for the greater part carefully cultivated by a
multitude of small proprietors. Agriculture and cattle-breeding are the leading
occupations. A manufacturing industry can hardly be said to exist,. and there are
no great commercial ports.
Loudiac (2,091 inhabitants) is the principal town in the southern portion of the
department, which drains into the rivers Blavot and Yilaine, and is covered to a
large extent with furze. Cor'ay, a village to the north-west of it, is noted for its
horses, said to be the descendants of Arabs introduced during the Crusades.
Lannion (6,115 inhabitants), in the delightful valley of the Guer, close to the
frontier of Finistt^re, has a small port. There are several curious old buildings.'
The river Jaudy enters the sea further west. The tide ascends it as far as the
famous old city of Tikjuier (3,011 inhabitants), with a cathedral of the fourteenth
century. Doubling the dreaded headland known as the " Swords " (Epees) of
Treguier, we arrive at the rnouth of the river Tricux and the small port of
262
FRANCE.
Lizardi-ieux (516 inhabitants). The tide ascends as far as Portrieux (2,192 inha-
bitants). Higher up on the river is Guingamj) (7,895 inhabitants), with an old
citadel.
Returning to the coast, we pass the island of Brehat, inhabited by a superior
race of men, whom consanguineous marriages have not injuriously affected, and the
small fishing ports of Paimbol (1,576 inhabitants), Brehec, St. Quay (984 inha-
Fig. 193.— MoHLAix.
Scale 1 : 200,000.
bitants), and Binic (1,110 inhabitants) ; and entering the river Gouet, ascend with
the tide to the tidal harbour of St. Brieuc, (13,683 inhabitants), the capital of the
department. The town is not remarkable for its buildings ; but its inhabitants,
known as Briochins, engage in the manufacture of textile fabrics, and carry on a
considerable trade with agricultural produce. Hundreds of men find employment
in the granite quarries in its neighbourhood. St. Qmntin (3,218 inhabitants), on
c6tes-du-noed.
268
the Upper Gouet, is noted for its linen industry, which was much more important
formerly.
At PMdran, a small village 6 miles to the south-east of St. Brieuc, may be seen
the curious ancient camp of Peran, with vitrified walls.
Lamhalle (4,248 inhabitants), the old capital of the duchy of Penthievre, lies
on the road to Dinan (7,978 inhabitants), the easternmost town of the department,
Pig. 194. — St. Malo and St. Seevan.
Scale t : 90,000.
^°|»5T^'.ofF«rii
C>»Coi
W'
y (^ ~ ■'■'U«l»«rm» '■, \
yvj«n«i«
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m
picturesquely situated on the banks of the river Ranee, which lower down flows
past St. Malo. An old castle, now used 0s a prison, crowns a hill near the town ;
a magnificent viaduct spans the river ; and the heart of Dugucsclin is preserved in
the Gothic parish church. A granite pillar, 10 miles to the south-west of the town,
marks the site of the castle of La Motte-Broons, in which Duguesclin was born
(1321). Dinan has tan-yards and sail-cloth factories. Its mild climate has
attracted many English residents.
264
FRANCE.
Illeet-Vilaink. — The greater portion of this department is drained by the
river Vilaine and its tributary, the lUe, and only an inconsiderable part of it
borders upon the British Channel. Agriculture and cattle-breeding are the prin-
cipal occupations ; bee-hives (1 60,000) are more numerous than in any other
department in France ; and at St. Malo and elsewhere on the coast fishing and
navigation occupy many of the inhabitants.
St. M'llo (10,061 inhabitants), at the mouth of the Ranee, is the great seaport
of the department, separated from its more ancient sister city of Si. Sermn (9,912
inhabitants) by extensive wet docks. The tides sometimes rise 50 feet, and the
Fig. 195. — View of St. Malo.
sea alternately advances up to the quays and retires for a considerable distance,
completely changing the aspect of the two towns. The inhabitants of St. Malo, or
Malouins, have at all times enjoyed a reputation as bold seamen, engaging in com-
merce or piracy as opportunities offered themselves. Four expeditions were fitted
out in England to burn the town, but they failed. The Malouins became so
wealthy that they were able to lend 30,000,000 francs to Louis XIV. They are
enterprising and persevering, and somewhat haugh^J^ Lamennais and Chateau-
briand were both natives of the town, and are amongst its most distinguished
representatives. The commerce of the two towns is no longer what it used to be,
in spite of fine docks and railways. About eighty vessels are engaged in the New-
ILLE-ET-VILAINE. 265
foundland fisheries, and provisions in large quantities are exported to the Channel
Islands and England. The town attracts numerous seaside visitors.
Cancale (3,269 inhabitants), on the western shore of the Bay of St. Michel, has
famous oyster beds. They yielded 120,000,000 in 1802, but only 15,500,000 in
1875. At Le Viricr, on the same bay, oyster- breeding is carried on successfully.
Dol (3,517 inhabitants), a famous old town with a fine Gothic church, lies a short
distance inland. Near it stands the famous menhir of Champ-Dolent, surmounted
by a cross. Comhounj (1,491 inhabitants), with a castle in which Chateaubriand
spent several years of his youth, lies to the south ; Fniigeres (10,396 inhabitants),
on the Upper Couesnon, in the south- east. The town retains its old castle, but the
media;val fortifications have been razed to make room for suburbs. Shoemaking,
weaving, and the quarrying of granite occupy thousands of men in the town and
its vicinity. At St. Aiihin-dii-Cormier (1,150 inhabitants), in this neighbourhood,
was fought the battle which resulted in Brittany becoming a French province.
Crossing the water-shed separating the rivers flowing into the channel from
those taking a southerly course, we reach Eeniies (53,598 inhabitants), the capital
of the department, at the confluence of the Ille with the Vilaine. Four railways
and eleven highways converge upon the town, and a canal connects the navigable
Ille with the river Ranee, which enters the sea at St. Malo. Its commercial
advantages are consequently very great. The aspect of the town, with its houses
built of greyish granite and deserted streets, is nevertheless very dreary. The
gate of Mordelaise is the most interesting monument of the Middle Ages, but a
fine university building, with valuable scientific and art collections, constitutes the
glory of the place. Rich meadow lands surround the town, and the butter known
as Pr»5valaye is named after a castle in the neighbourhood.
Viire (8,475 inhabitants) is a picturesque old town on the Upper Vilaine.
Madame de Sevigne resided for a considerable time at the castle of Rochers, to the
south-east of it. Descending the Vilaine below Rennes, and passing through its
gorges, we reach Redon (4,955 inhabitants), at the mouth of the Oust, and on the
canal which connects Nantes with Brest. Other places of interest in the depart-
ment are Montfort (1,507 inhabitants), on the Meu, a tributary of the Vilaine,
with an old castle ; Paiiupont, in the famous forest of Broc(51iande, one of the
reputed haunts of Merlin the enchanter; Janze (1,636 inhabitants), to the south-
east of Rennes ; and La Guerche (2,612 inhabitants).
50
CHAPTER IX.
THE CHANNEL ISIANDS.
HOUGH a political dependency of England, these islands geographi-
cally belong to French. Normandy. Their soil, climate, produc-
tions, and inhabitants are the s-ame, and in their customs and
political institutions they are even more Norman than Normandj'^
itself. Magistrates there still raise the " hue and cry " {clameur
de haro), as was formerly done by the people when wronged by the great, and the
legislative body is still known as cohue. If we would study the institutions of
feudal Normandy we cannot do better than go to the Channel Islands. Ever
since they sided with John Lackland against Philip Augustus, in the thirteenth
century, these islands have almost uninterruptedly enjoyed the. blessings of peace,
for their neutrality was guaranteed. England very wisely lefc them in the
enjoyment of their local institutions, and can boast of no subjects more faithful
than these islanders.
The islets, rocks, and banks off Granville have remained in the possession of
France, but only a few of the larger islets of the archipelago of Chausey are inha-
bited throughout the year. A few acres there are cultivated, but fishing is the
principal occupation, and the sea yields a rich harvest of fish, shrimps, and sea-
weed, but there are no oysters. Quarrying also is carried on extensively, and the
streets of Paris are for the most part paved with Chausey granite. The storm-
beaten rocks of Minquiers and the Grelets, farther out, are only occasionally
visited by fishermen from Granville or the Channel Islands.
JiRSEY* — that is, the island of Jem, or Caesar : historians have identified it with
the CsDsarea of the Antonine Itinerary — is the largest of the group. In shape it is
a parallelogram, its length being nearly twice its breadth. The dig's along its
northern shores have offered more resistance to the onslaughts of the Atlantic, and
from their summits (350 feet) the island slopes down to the south, nearly all its
rivulets flowing into the Bay of St. Aubin. On ascending their shady valleys up
to where they rise, we find ourselves upon the summit of the cliffs, with a grand
outlook over the ocean.
• Jersey has an area of -16 square mil,.,s and .56,^27 inlial.itants ; Guernsey and the smaller islands have
ar area of 28 square miles, wiih a population of .33,968 soiUa.
THE CHANNEL ISLANDS.
267
The southern and western coasts of the island exhibit many traces of the
erosive action of the ocean. Ledges of rock and sand-bunks, which in former times
were dry land, stretch for a mile or two from what is now the high-water line ;
Fig. 196. — The Channel Islands.
Scale 1 : 700,000.
_37 tatiwau
10 Miles.
and the cliffs of Corbierc have been gnawed into curious pinnacles and pillars, and
pierced by caverns. The heights surrounding the beach of St. Ouen, in the west,
are covered with shrubs which bend to the storm. Dunes exist in that portion of
268 FEANCE.
the island, and they have occasionally overwhelmed cultivated fields, as a punish-
ment, local tradition tolls us, for the massacre of shipwrecked mariners.
Except in the north and west, where the brine-laden air destroys the vegeta-
tion, the island is naturally fertile, and being blessed by a mild climate, it pro-
duces fruits and vegetables of excellent quality. Its cows are highly valued, and
cattle imported from France are invariably slaughtered for butchers' meat.
There are a few dolmens recalling prehistoric ages. Locally they are
known as poquelaiji-s, a name recalling that of the ponlpicans, or dwarfs, of
Armor ica. Skeletons and coarse cinereal vases have been found at the foot of
some of these ancient stone monuments. Norman-French is still the official lan-
guage of the island, and Wace, the author of the famous " Roman de Rou," was a
native of " Jersui." Within the last fifty years a large number of English have
established themselves upon the island, attracted by its mild climate and the
cheapness of the necessaries and luxuries of life. These wealthy immigrants have
gradually changed the physiognomy of the inhabitants and of their houses ; and,
when passing through the streets of St. Helier, we may almost fancy being in an
English town. During last century the Jerseyites were attached to England only
politically, but at the present day we must look upon them as members of the
great English family, in spite of the vicinity of France and the many Frenchmen
domiciled upon the island.
The castle of Montorgueil, on the eastern coast of the island, was its old
Ciipital, the fishing village of Gorey nestling at its foot. St. Helier (16,715 inha-
bitants), the modern capital, stands on the vast Bay of St. Aubin, on the south shore
of the island, and is quite English in its aspect. Two forts defend its harbour,
from which the sea retires during low water. Large vessels anchor in the road-
stead of St. Aubin, but an artificial harbour, covering no less than 380 acres, has
been in course of construction since 1874. St. Aubin, which was the more impor-
tant place formerly, is hardly mora now than a suburb of St. Helier, with which
it is connected by rail.
Sekk, whose granite cliffs rise boldly in the channel which separates JerSsej'^
from Guernsey, consists of two portions, joined together by a narrow and precipi-
tous neck of land. Its cliffs rise to a height of 160 feet, but access to its fertile
and smiling plateau is facilit;ited by means of a tunnel. Rabelais, in " Panta-
gruel," calls it the island of pirates, thieves, brigands, murderers, and assassins,
but its present inhabitants are peaceable enough.
Guernsey, the Sarnia of the Romans, and probably the Groens-ey, or green
island, of its Scandinavian conquerors, is deserving of its ancient name. Though
less carefully cultivated than Jersey, green meadows, elms growing in the hedges,
;md apple orchards impart to it the aspect of a wooded country. The general
slope is towards the north-east, the boldest promontories rising at the western
extremity.
Less frequently visited tlian Jersey, the inhabitants have remained more
faithful to their ancient customs. Small, sunburnt, with black eyes, and thick
brown hair, they strike one as being true representatives of the Breton race.
THE CHANNEL ISLANDS. 269
Many Celtic expressions are used by them, and until quite recently they looked
with superstitious awe upon the dolmens, cromlechs, and menhirs scattered over
their island. They are old rivals of their neighbours on the larger island, and,
when these latter sided with the Parliament during the Commonwealth they
stuck firmly to the King. St. Peter's Port (16,150 inhabitants) occupies a
sheltered situation on the east coast. Its harbour is accessible at all times.
Granite, quarried in the vicinity, is the principal article exported, and there are
large stores of wine.
Alderney (Aurigny) is separated from the coast of France by the strait of
Raz Blanchard, only 10 miles wide, but much dreaded by mariners. Steep
cliffs rise on the south, and the island slopes down towards tlie north, where there
are numerous creeks and small bays. The most considerable of these, that of
Braye, was to be converted into a huge harbour of refuge, similar to that on the
coast of England opposite, but the works have recently been stopped, in spite of
the vast sums already expended on them. The formidable rocks known as the
Cusquets, to the west of Alderney, are rendered conspicuous by lighthouses.
The political institutions of the Channel Islands are still feudal in their
character. The seigneurs are vassals of the Queen, the " sovereign lord of the
land," and annually do homage to her at a ceremonious " assize of heritage."
Their privileges are still considerable. The Legislative States of Jersey consist of
thirty-eight members, viz the governor and the bailiff of the Royal Court, both
appointed by the Crown ; the twelve judges, or jurats, of the Royal Court, elected
for life by the ratepayers ; the twelve rectors of the parishes, appointed to their
livings by the ratepayers ; and the twelve constables, elected every three years,
one for each parish, by the inhabitants. The rieoiite, or high sheriff, and the two
(lenonciatenrn, or under-sheriffs, occupy seats in the Assembly as its officers. No
taxes can be levied without the consent of the States. TLe revenue of the island
amounts to £22,000, and there is a debt of £160,000.
In Guernsey there are " States of Deliberation," composed of the bailiff of (he
Royal Court, who is president ; the procureur, the ten rectors of the parishes, the
twelve jurats or judges of the Royal Court, and fifteen delegates elected by the rate-
payers. The bailiff and procureur are nominated by the Crown ; the jurats are
chosen by " States of Election."
CHAPTEE X.
LOWER NORMANDY AND COTENTIN.
General Aspects.
HOUGH small in extent, this section of France has made its influence
felt in the history of the country. From ancient times it has
served as the intermediary of commerce and ideas between France
and Great Britain, and from its shores departed, in the eleventh
century, the Norman conquerors of England. The inhabitants
liffer in physique from those of other parts of France, for the Norman conquerors
maintained their ground longer there than elsewhere. Bayeux was ceded to them
in A.D. 923, or twenty-five years later than Rouen, but they came to the former in
larger numbers, besides which the Saxon Bai'ocasses or Sesnes of Bayeux, speaking
a kindred dialect, had preceded them. The local dialect contains many words of
Teuton origin, such as gault, signifying forest. The natives of Bessin, the littus
Saxonicum of old chronicles, as well as those of Cotentin, are often tall and
powerful, with flaxen hair, elongated faces, and light blue eyes.
Lower Normandy is boi.nded on the south by a range of hills, occasionally
assuming the appearance of mountains. On the heights of Perche rise the Sarthe,
the Orne, the Eure, and other rivers. A depression, through which runs the
railway from Alencon to Caen, separates them from the Forests of Ecouves and
Multonne, both attaining the same height (1,370 feet), and forming the culminating
points of the whole of North-western France. Granitic rocks here pierce the
sedimentary strata of Jurassic, cretaceous, and tertiar)' age of the basins of the
Loire and the Seine, and farther to the west, up to the extreme points of
Brittany, granites and paleozoic rocks predominate.
These hills near Alenfon, owing to the diversity they oflfer, are known as
" Norman Switzerland," but those to the west of them are most regular in their
contours. The Forest of Andaine, though pierced by numerous tributaries of
the Mayenne, rising to the north of it, presents the appearance of a veritable
rampart, upon one of the promontories of which is seated the town of Dom front.
The hilly country to the north is known as the " Bocage " of Normandy,
and abounds in beeches and orchards, whilst the ridges of the peninsula of
GENERAL ASPECTS.
271
Cotentin are bare, and the country owes all its attractions to the vicinity of the
ocean.
The plains to the east of Bocage, irrigated by the Orne, the Dives, and the
Touques, are a pastoral country. Bessin, to the east of the Vire, comprises many
marshes now under cultivation. The vast meadows around Isigny might remind
us of Holland, if it were not for the rows of willows, poplars, and trees which
intersect them, and the low embankments covered with hawthorn and brambles.
The plains of the Orne and of Calvados are admirably suited for the breeding of
horses and the fattening of cattle. The finest grass, however, is reserved for the
Fig. 197. — Thb Fohbst op Andaikb.
Scale I : 320,000.
6 mies.
choicer breeds of cattle and for milch cows. The cheese and butter made enjoy a
high reputation.
None of the rivers, not even the Vire or the Orne, are navigable farther than
the head of the tide. Subterranean river channels are frequent, as in other lime-
stone regions. Several " sinks," or hetoirn, occur in tlie bed of the Aure, and
only in winter is the volume of the river sufficient to flow on the surface a feeble
stream. The Lower Aure is fed from subterranean channels, but it, too, is partly
swallowed up by sinks, and at its mouth forms a delta, one arm of which reaches
the sea through an underground channel.
The granitic cliffs of Cotentin resemble those of Brittany : exposed to the
attacks of conflicting tides, they have been destroyed in many places. The wide
272
FEANCE.
Bay of St. Michel, to the south of Granville, has thus been formed. Elsewhere
the deep bays, or fieiirs (a corruption of the Scandinavian word Jjord), have
been silted up. The promontories forming the extremities of the peninsula do not
mark its ancient limits, for Alderney and other islands were formerly attached to
it. The conflicting tides give rise to phenomena resembling the maelstrom. The
Eaz Blanchard, between Cap de la Hague and Alderney, sometimes rushes along
like a mighty river at the rate of 10 miles an hour. The current known as La
Fig 198. — Meadows op Normandy.
Deroute, fart.her south, though less swift, has nevertheless proved the destruction
of many a mariner.
The aspect of the limestone cliffs of Calvados is very different from that of the
granitic rocks. Tliese soft rocks liuve been gnawed away more regularly by the
waves, and their debris now forms broad beaches, surmounted here and there by
rocks, anciently portions of the mainland, and still offering some resistance to the
waves.
Topography.
L.A M.'VXCHE includes the peninsula of Cotentin, together with adjoining portions
of Normandy. Though bounded on three sides by the sea, the maritime commerce
LA MANCHE.
U73
of this department is not of much importance ; industry is even less so ; and the
population depends almost exclusively upon agriculture for its sustenance. The
soil is not very fertile naturally, but the small proprietors who share it have
done much to improve it. The moist and warm climate is favourable to the
growth of herbs and grasses, and the breeding of horses and cattle is carried on
with much success, more especially in the east. Some parts of the department
resemble huge orchards, and about 28,f)00,000 gallons of cider are made annually.
Cherbourg (36,a38 inhabitants), the most considerable town of the department.
Fig. 199. — The Sinks op the Alke.
Scale 1 : 72,000.
. 1 MUe.
is of ancient foundation, but its importance dates from the time when Vauban
converted it into one of the great naval arsenals of France. The features
of the locality offered many obstacles to the accomplishment of the work, and
the breakwater, begun in 168f>, was only completed in the course of the present'
century, and at an expenditure of £.3,000,000. The port, which accommodates
no more than forty large vessels, would soon become silted up if dredging
machines were not continually kept at work. From the fort on the hill of Roule
we look down upon the docks, the dockyard, the arsenal, the vast fortifications
274
FRANCE.
and the regularlj' built city. In the suburbs of E'lneHnlrerille (2,475 inhabitants)
and Tour/arille {\,bb2 inhabitants) are glass works and other industrial establish-
ments, and stone is quarried in their neighbourhood. Beaumont- Hague, thus
named from the promontory of La Hague, to the west of Cherbourg, has entrench-
ments in its neighbourhood supposed to have been constructed by the ancient
Gauls. Barfleur, a small port, lies to the east, aTid on the cape near it stands the
tallest lighthouse in France, which mariners keep in sight until they find themselves
■within the radius of that of La Heve, near Havre. 8t. Vaast (;i,014 inhabitants),
close to Cap La Hougue, is best known through the naval victory of the combined
English and Dutch fleets in l'>92. Ship-building and oj'ster-breeding are carried
on. The islands of St. Marcouf, in the offing, were held by the English from 1793
Fig. 200. — CHKRHorRO.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
lo Fat. 5 VathoTOS
— .^— — ^^^ 1 Mile.
to 1802, who thus intercepted all communications between Havre and Cherbourg.
Valo(j)U's (4,910 inhabitants) lies in the centre of the peninsula of Cotentin, and
at the mouth of the Douve. In the midst of marshes converted into fertile
meadows stands Carentan (2,772 inhabitants), which exports dairy produce to
England. Si!. Lo (S»,519 inhabitants), the capital of the department, occupies a
delightful site in the valley of the Vire, and carries on some textile industry.
Returning to the western coast, the first place we arrive at is Couiances
(Constantia, 8,008 inhabitants), an old episcopal city which has given its name to
the entire peninsula. Its cathedral is a fine structure of the fourteenth century.
Regnerille, the port of Coutances, has oyster beds. Higher up on the Sienne is
Vilkdieu-ks-Poe/es (3,437 inhabitants), a town of tinkers and frying-pan makers,
as is implied by its name.
OENE.
275
Granville (12,372 inhabitants) has an excellent harbour and docks, and carries
on commerce with the Channel Islands and England. The inhabitants are sup-
posed by some to be of Iberian descent, and such a thing as slander is said to
be unknown amongst them — a very curious circumstance for a provincial town.
Avranches (7,754 inhabitants), the old town of the Abrincates, occupies an
admirable situation at the mouth of the See. It boasts a fine cathedral, and a
railway, which will connect it with the curious castle of St. Michel, is being*
constructed.
8t. HiUiire-du-Harcouet (3,148 inhabitants), on the Selune, has tan-yards,
Fig. 201. — Thb Beach at Granville.
spinning-mills, &c. ; whilst Morfmn (2,185 inhabitants), higher up in the same
valley, is more especially noted for its picturesque position.
Okne is named after the river which enters the Channel below Caen. It is a
country of transition. Primitive rocks prevail in the west, sedimentary strata in
the east. In this latter region the inhabitants breed horses and cattle ; in the
former they carry on some manufacturing industry.
Altn^on (15,433 inhabitants), the capital, on the Sarthe, was formerly cele-
brated for its point-lace, the manufacture of which was introduced from Venice
in 1073, but depends now mainly upon its horse markets.
276 FEANCE.
JDomfront (2,735 inhabitants), a picturesque old town on the Varenne, a
tributary of the Mayenne, is the capital of an arrondissemont ; but La FerU-Mace
(6,392 inhabitants), on another tributary of the Mayenne, exceds it in importance,
for it carries on the manufacture of linen, cottons, and ribbons. Near it are the
steel and sulphur springs of Bagnolles.
Argentan (o,254 inhabitants) occupies a fine site in the valley of the Orne.
The surrounding country is famous for its poultry, cattle, and horses. At Sees
(3,760 inhabitants), an episcopal city higher up in the valley, important horse
fairs are held, and at Pin, in the district known as Merlerault, is a famous stud
for breeding horses. Flers (8,571 inhabitants) and Tiachehrai (2,562 inhabit-
ants) are busy towns in side valleys of the Orne, engaged in the manufacture of
cottons, linens, cutlery, and other articles.
Viinoutien (2,775 inhabitants), in the north-e-ist, has bleaching grounds.
Caniembert, a village noted for its cheese, is close by. Still farther east is Laigle
(4,495 inhabitants), where needles, nails, wire, and other hardware are manu-
factured.
Mortagne (4,302 inhabitants) and Bclleme (2,935 inhabitants) are the principal
towns in the Forest of La Perche, within which the Abbe de Ranee founded the
first monastery of Trappists. From Tourouvre, one of the villages, eighty families
emigrated two hundred years ago, and can boast that most of the Canadian French
are descended from them.
CALVADoa is named after a few rocks on the coast, and is probably a
corruption of Salvados, one of the vessels of the Spanish Armada wrecked upon
them. The western and south-western portions of the department form the
district of " Bocage" (woodland), and are of pala3ozoic formation. Bessin includes
the western maritime district, and is of Jurassic age. In the country round
Cuen oolitic rocks predominate. In Lieuvin and in the valley of Auge, in the
east, Jurassic, cretaceous, and tertiary rocks are met with. This is eminently
a cattle-breeding region, whilst Bessin is noted for its dairy farms. Bocage, which
only produced oats, rye, and buckwheat formerly, is now more carefully cultivated.
There are quarries and coal mines, and paper, earthenware, soap, and textile fabrics
are manufactured.
Vire (6,718 inhabitants), the capital of Bocage, is delightfully situated on a
river of the same name. There are linen, cloth, and paper mills, tan-yards, and
quarries of grey granite. Basselin, the song writer of the fourteenth century, was
a native of the Val or Van de Vire (valley of the Viie), which has been corrupted
into our modern Vaudeville.
liaijeux (8,315 inhabitants), on the Aure, is the capital of Bessin. China,
lace, and embroidered work are manufactured there, but the town bears an aspect
of decay. Its Gothic cathedral, old town-hall, and curious houses with wood-
carvings, remind us of better days. Descending the Aure, we puss Trevieres,
near which is Formigtnj, famous on account of the battle which put an end to
the English reign in Normandy (1450). Near the mouth of the river is Isigny
(2.104 inhabitants), which exports much butter.
CALVADOS.
277
Caen (33,072 inhabitants) is the only considerable town on tlie Orne. Its
situation, in the midst of verdant meadows, at the junction of the valleys of the
Orne and the Odon, and at the head of the tide, is most favourable. It boasts
Fig. 202. — Caen and the Mouth of the Orne.
Scale 1 : 140,000.
. -z Milca.
of many fine buildings, most of them constructed of the famous stone quarried in
the neighbourhood. The Byzuntini' church of St. Pierre, at the foot of the old
castle, has a fine Gothic spire. The abbey of St. Etieune, in which William the
Conqueror was buried, is distinguished by its simple grandeur, and has a nave of
278
FRANCE.
the eleventh century. Many of the other ecclesiastical and private buildings
are remarkable on account of the architecture. The "sapient" city may boast
of numerous educational establishments, and its library and museums are amongst
the wealthiest in France. An active commerce is carried on, and the docks
admit vessels drawing 16 feet of water. Ouistreliam, at the mouth of the Orne,
Kg. 203.— Tkouville.
Scale 1 : 60,000.
was the great port of the country in xVnglo-Normun times, but is now a simple
village, much frequented as a seaside resort, as are also other villages near
it, amongst which Conrsmlles, with a small port and oyster beds, is the most
important. In a side valley of the Upper Orne is Conde-sur-Noireau (6,835
inhabitants), with cotton-mills.
The river Dives, on entering the department, is joined on the left by a small
CALVADOS. 279
tributary, commanded by the curious old city of Falaisc (8,180 inhabitants), in
whose castle was born William the Conqueror. There are cotton-mills and horse
fairs, called after the suburb of Guibray. At Dives, now a poor village at the
mouth of the river, the Conqueror embarked the army of 25'>,000 men with
which he invaded England. Licarot, in i\ side valley of the Dives, is noted for
its cheese.
Lisieux (18,396 inhabitants) is the most important town on the Touques. Its
fat meadows nourish cattle for the Paris market, and cloth, leather, and cotton
stuffs are amongst its principal manufacturing products. A Gothic cathedral is
its most remarkable building. Crevecwiir, noted for its fowls, is near. Poni-
fEciqw (2,373 inhabitants) exports cheese and vegetables.
Trouvilk (5,161 inhabitants), at the mouth of the river, is one of the most
fashionable seaside resorts of France, annually frequented by 20,000 bathers ;
but the town also carries on some commerce. The castle of Botinei-ille, at the
neighbouring village of Touques, was a favourite residence of William the
Conqueror.
Honfteur (;»,037 inhabitants), at the mouth of the Seine, opposite Havre, rises
amphitheatrically from the water-side. It was an important place formerly, before
it had been eclipsed by its parvenu rival on the opposite bank of the river, and
its mariners roamed over every sea. Its port has been silted up, but it still
exports vast quantities of vegetables, fruits, poultry, and eggs, more especially to
London. Fishing and ship-building are also carried on, and the gardens produce
excellent melons.
CHAPTER XI.
THE VALLEY OF THE SEINE.
The River Seike.
EOLOGICALLY this is a well-defined portion of France. It covers
three-fourths of an ancient gulf of the sea, Paris being in its centre,
and the coasts of former ages can still be traced in many places.
Calcareous rocks, overlying the schistose plateau of the Ardennes on
the one hand, and the granitic mountains of Morvan on the other,
bound the basin in the east ; rocks belonging to the same formation separate
Beauce and Lower Normandy from the palaeozoic rocks of Brittany in the west ;
and only in the south does this geological basin extend beyond that of the Seine
and embrace a portion of that of the Loire.
Historically this ancient country of the Sequanians has at all times proved
itself the natural centre of France, towards which converge the roads from Belgium
and Germany, from Southern France and the Atlantic. Add to this a favourable
climate, and we need not wonder at the Seine holding a rank amongst rivers quite
out of proportion to its volume.
The Seine, so called, rises on the north slope of the Cote-d'Or, but its real
head-stream must be looked for in the granitic and porphyritic district of Morvan.
This district forms the northern buttress of the plateau of Central France. Though
nowhere exceeding 2,960 feet in height, its aspect is sometimes Alpine, and its
valleys fertilised by the debris carried down by the torrents, are verdant with
vegetation. Swamps {ouches) have been converted into fields, and yield harvest
after harvest ; but the forests, to which these mountains owe their Celtic name of
Morvan {i.e. "black mountains"), have to a great extent been destroyed. Pic-
turesque cliffs, perched upon which ar^ the towns of Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur,
terminate the district of Morvan in the north. The bare chalky hills beyond
these, as far as the plain, are attractive only in summer, when the apple-trees are
in blossom.
The aspect of the country is more varied in the north-east, where the hills of
Cote-d'Or, the plateau of Langres, and the Faucilles ("sickle mountains"), form
the water-shed as far as the Vosges. Some of the valleys in that part of Burgundy
THE RIVER SEINE.
281
are very attractive, but the aspect of the plateaux is sometimes dreary in the
extreme, the water disappearing in their porous soil as in a sieve. The railway
from Paris to Dijon, where it crosses the rampart of the Cote-d'Or, winds along
the foot of the scarped heights which lead up to the vast plain deposited by the
ocean as it retired to the north.
The geological differences in the formation of the Morvan and the Cote-d'Or
amply account for the discrepancies in the rivers wliich rise in these two regions.
The granites and porphyries of Morvan being impervious to rain, only surface
drainage is possible, and after a heavy fall of rain the rivulets are converted into
Kg. 204. — Thb Batinbd Plateau of Upper Bukoundt.
Scale 1 : 160,000.
ay E. (^ Farii.
VJ5E of Cr
, 2 Miles.
uncontrollable torrents. The limestone formation of the Cote-d'Or, on the other
hand, sucks up the rain, and the rivers being largely fed from underground
reservoirs, retain their volume throughout the year. The difference is all the
more striking as the rainfall in the Morvan is exceptionally large, amounting
to 48 inches, as compared with 2 1 inclns near the so-called source of the
Seine. The head-streams of the Seine, rising in the Morvan, thus present all the
features of mountain torrents. The engineers have attempted to regulate the
volume of the Cure and theYonne by building a dam below the swamp of Settons,
which has thus been converted into a lake, having an area of 1,000 acres, capable
of holding 21,000,000 tons of water. In times of drought 25 tons a second
66
FRANCE.
can be discharged from it consecutively for ten days, a quantity amply sufficient
to float timber down the Yonne, and to feed the canals of Nivernais and Burgundy,
the volume of the Lower Yonne being regulated by means of locks.
At Sens the Yonne is joined by the smaU river Vanne, flowing through a
delightful valley, which would hardly be known amongst the outside world had
not the city of Paris purchased some of the sources of the river, and conveyed
their deliciously pure water, by means of a magnificent aqueduct, to Pans.
The Seine, the Aube, and its tributaries rise on the limestone plateau to the
east of Morvan. The source of the Seine, so called, shifts its position according to
Fig. 20).— The Lake Reseuvoih of Settons.
Scale 1 : 20,000.
I *n t I I nri
whether the supply of water is more or less ample, and it happens frequently that
the tutelary statue erected by the city of Paris is not reflected in its crystal waters.
The stream only becomes considerable about 15 miles farther north, where it
is reinforced by two beautiful springs rising on the plateau to the west. At
Ch3,tillon, 30 miles below the " source," another douix, or spring, unites with the
river, which lower down is joined by the Ource and the Laignes.
The whitish Aube, rising in the chalks of Champagne ; the Voulzie, running
through a delightful valley ; the Loing, the sparkling Essonne, and other tributaries
flowing on regularly throughout the year, diSer essentially from the torrents
THE EIVEE SEINE.
283
which join the Upper Yonne. No less than 75 per cent, of the surface of the
basin of the Seine consists of permeable rocks, and this, together with the character
of the tributaries mentioned above, accounts for the Seine being that river of
France whose volume undergoes the fewest changes during the year. Of course
there are exceptions ; and quite recently, in the spring of 1876, the Seine
Fig. 206. — The Soukce ok the Seine.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
2* Zi'E.ofParu
1 MUe.
overflowed its banks and caused much destruction. On the 17th of March no less
than ;j8,27;j cubic feet of water passed every second beneath the bridges of Paris,
being fifty times more than when the river is at its lowest. But the difference,
utter all, is little compared with what may be witnessed in connection with the
Loire and the rivers of the south. M. Belgrand has shown, however, that during
284
FRANCE.
a geological epoch coinciding with the stone age, the Seine, too, had its floods, its
volume sometimes exceeding 1,000,000 cubic feet a second.
The Marne, which joins the principal river at the very gates of Paris, is of
greater length than the Seine, but its volume is less, and nowhere within its
basin does the annual rainfall exceed 24 inches. Between Epernay and Meaux
the annual precipitation only amounts to 16 inches, and most of the rain is
sucked up by the soil. This small amount of rain, however, is not attended by
sterility, for that portion of the Champagne known as " lousy," on account of its
Fig. 207. — The Basin of Vitry-le-Fkan(joi8.
Scale 1 : 320,000.
2° 3oB.of Pans
4° So' E of Gt
' 5 Miles.
barren rocks, its short herbage, poor fields, and poverty, lies to the east of this
"ramless" region. In spite of the greater precipitation, it contains tracts fitly to
be described as " steppes." Upon one of these the camp of Chalons has been
established. The zone of chalk is widest in that part of France, and the cultivators
of the soil have to sustain a severe struggle. Only where marl occurs naturally
or is applied to the chalky soil can fine crops be raised, and such localities form
oases in the desert. The Marne, now discharging 2,650 cubic feet a second, was a
far more considerable river in prehistoric times. All the rivers rising in the
THE EIVER SEINE.
286
Jurassic heights and converging upon Paris have denuded a considerable portion of
the area which they drain. In this manner a wide plain of erosion, enveloped by
the cretaceous rocks of Champagne, has been formed. Within it lie the towns of
Auxerre, Bar-sur-Seine, Bar-sur-Aube, Vitry, Bar-le-Diic, and Ste. Menehould.
M. Elie de Beaumont has likened this plain to the ditch of an exterior line of the
fortifications of Paris, the hills of Brie forming the rampart. In the formation of
this plain the Marue has had the greatest share. The basin of Vitry-le-Francois,
within which the two head branches of the river join, afiPords one of the finest
examples of the action of water as a geological agent. Over an area of 200 square
miles the cretaceous rocks have been carried away, and alluvial soil conveyed down
from the hills has been deposited instead. On approaching Paris, the Marne
meanders in numerous curves, taking its course through a valley the delights of
which have been the themes of poets and painters, and which has been encroached
upon by the villas and summer houses of the citizens of I'aris. The Ourcq, one
of the affluents of the Marne, has partly been diverted to feed a canal which
supplies Paris with water, and is at the same time navigable.
The last curve of the Marne is of recent origin. Formerly the Marne bifurcated
Normandy \
Fig 208 — Sectiok of the Paris Basin.
Horizonbd Scale 1 : fi,00O,00O. Vertical Scale 1 : 100,000.
Tkrii
■ France B''*
Vo&^e&
below Meaux, the northern nrm flowing through the depression in which runs
the canal of Ourcq, whilst the southern joined the vast lake which then covered
the basin of Paris, and above which rose the islands of Montmartre, Passy, Stains,
and Ormesson. Nor had the three curves which the Seine dc'scribes below Paris
any existence, their future directions being merely indicated by the promontories
of Vanves, Mont Valerien, and St. Germain.
The Oi.se, which joins the Seine above Poissy, is commercially an important
river, for it rises near the coal-fields of Belgium, and traverses a region distin-
guished for its industry. Locks render it navigable throughout, and canals join
it to the Marne, the Meuse, the Scheldt, and the Somme, one of them, that of
St. Quentin, passing through several tunnels. The valleyff of the Seine and the
Oise meet at right angles, embracing betwt-en them the huge ouadrant of a circle, the
centre of which is at Paris, whilst the periphery is formed by the Jurassic zone
extending from Burgundy to the Ardennes. The geological formation of the
basin of Paris may here be studied most advantageously, the degruding action of
the water having been lea.st. Geologists have likened the successive beds of
this basin to a number of basins placed one within the other. Where impervious
•286
FRANCE.
layers of clay prevent the passage of water, the latter collects underground, and
thus the rain which falls on the chalky plateaux of Champagne finds its way to
the surface through wells bored at Paris. The artesian springs at Grenelle rise
from a depth of 1,640 feet. Beneath the Seine which flows on the surface there
are other Seines far underground. Beneath the Lake of Enghien, which occupies
a cup-shaped cavity in the marl, there are other lakes, which may be tapped,
when their water rushes up to the surface.
About one-half of the rain falling within the basin of the Seine finds its way
into the river, the other half feeding subterranean reservoirs. No large tributaries
join below the Oise, but the Seine nevertheless increases in volume, for numerous
springs rise in its bed. Below the confluence with the Eure the influence of the
tide makes itself felt, and the river is of imposing width. The ancient gulf through
Fig. 209. — Thb Ebtuaby op the Seine.
!;•« ofrjTii.
4 Miles.
AlhtvUdLantt
recovered, front
the Secu*
CdelaHei'e(fi^
Lt,rlai'<3
LEteRE
-■-S-'««,
TROUVHl,:
QMS' E.oP tirecnw
which it flows is for the most part bounded by sloping hills, but a few old
chalk cliff's, formerly bathed by the sea, may still be seen. Below Rouen the Seine
forms curves similar to those near Paris. Beyond Quilleboeuf it is confined within
embankments. The phenomenon of the bore (mascarct) may be witnessed above
that town as far as Caudebec. A tidal wave, 10 feet in height, then rushes up
the river at the rate of more than half a mile a minute, and the conflict between
it and the river is most imposing.
The bay of the Seine has been much changed in consequence of engineering
works. The mouth of the river is now 10 miles below Quilleboeuf, opposite the
Cap du Hode. The embankments are flooded at high water, and behind them
the sea deposits the mud held in suspension. When these deposits have attained
the height of the embankment the latter is increased in altitude, and the land thus
protected may be cultivated. The estuary of the Rille, which joins that of the
UPPER NORMANDY.
287
Seine on the south, is effectually treated in the same manner. Like many other
rivers traversing calcareous formations, the Rille, or Risle, flows partly through
underground channels.
Upper Normandy.
The plateaux of Upper Normandy, which extend from the northern bank of the
Seine to the English Channel, where they terminate in Capes de la Ileve and
Fig. 210.— ThB DlSTHICT OF Bmy.
Scale 1 : 600,000.
10 Miles.
Antifer, are drained but in part into the Parisian river. They consist of cretaceous
rocks covered by strata of more recent origin. The limestone crops out wherever
the surface deposits have been removed by the action of the rivers, and these lime-
stone districts differ from others adjoining them in their vegetation, iigriculturc,
and inhabitants. In the district of Bray, the most elevated of these plnteaux, the
surface strata have been almost completely removed, and the limestone hills,
belonging to the upper Jurassic formation, are covered to their very summits with
288
■FRANCE.
savoury herbs and fruit trees. The fattening of cattle is carried on there ; and so
luxuriant is the pasturage that, in spite of the severity of climate, cattle pasture in
the open air throughout the winter, merely sheltered by sheds against the incle-
mencies of the weather. On the chalky plateaux of Caux and Vexin the rain-
water disappears as in a sieve, but bounteous springs gush forth in the surrounding
valleys, which are of rare fecundity, and frequently suffer from a superabundance
of water, whilst the dwellers on the plateaux are dependent upon cisterns or
pools. The air fortunately is charged with moisture, and these springless regions
support a fine vegetation. Rows of beeches planted on embankments screen the
apple orchards against the violent breezes blowing from the sea. Formerly the
whole coimtry was one dense forest of oaks and beech-trees.
Fig. 211. — Dales (Valleuses) on the Coast.
Scale 1 : 160,000.
0°[U'E of ST"
w ^.^ ^^
■ 2 Miles.
The maritime slope of this plateau is intersected by numerous valleys or river-
less dales. The parallelism of the rivers is remarkable : the Bethune, the Yeres,
the Bresle, and the Somme all flow in the same direction, dividing the country
into regular parallelograms. The roads either run along the valleys or at
right angles across the intervening plateaux. Most of the towns have been built
lengthways along the roads, running towards the north-west. They have hardly
any side streets ; and one village, that of Aliermont, near Dieppe, forms a sino-le
street nearly 10 miles in length.
The right slope of most of the valleys of Upper Normandy is steeper than that
on the left. M. de Lamblardie ascribes this curious feature to the greater rapidity
with which evaporation takes place on the slopes exposed to the sun. The slopes
THE COAST.
facing northward are more humid, and the disintegration of the rocks would
consequently go on at a more rapid rate. The rotation of the earth, however, is
sufficient to account for this phenomenon.
The Coast.
The undisturhed action of geological agencies in this part of France is exhibited
by the formation of the coast, no less than by that of the plateau. The shore
between Havre and Dieppe forms a convex curve, and is continued thence to
Fig. 212.— Capb db la Hkvs.
Boulogne and Capo Gris-Nez by a concave one. The contour of this coast-line is
most graceful, and yet few localities exist where the sea has wrought greuter
havoc. Between Havre and Auet, a village to the south of the Somme, bold clialk
cliffs line the coast, sometimes rising to a height of 300 feet, and only interrupted
at intervals by brcnks through which the inland waters make their way to the
sea. Sometimes, when the storm rages, masses of rock weighing thousands of tons
are detached, and gradually worn down into sand.
The rain-water which tillers through the fissures of the rocks is even a greater
57
290 FEANCE.
agent of destruction than the sea. The lower portion of the cliffs generally
consists of ferruginous sand, through which percolates the water of many springs.
Cavities are thus formed, the superimposed mass of rock settles down, and at the
next onslaught of the waves tumbles down upon the beach. The sea here con-
tinually encroaches upon the land. ■ In the beginning of the twelfth century the
church of Ste. Adresse stood 4,600 feet from the present coast, at a spot now
occupied by the bank of £clat. The sea has consequently advanced at a rate of
about 8 feet annually. This rapid progress is due in a large measure to the coast
current, which carries away the debris of the cliffs. For a time the fragments of
rock which tumble down from the top of the cliffs form a protective barrier ; but
by degrees the chalk dissolves, and is carried to a distance, whilst the enclosed
pebbles, unable to contend against the waves, are distributed along the beach, and
even aid in the work of destruction. The ports, moreover, are being silted up
by pebbles and mud carried down by the rivers and require the protection of
piers.
At the Cape of Antifer the ocean current bifurcates, the principal branch run-
ning east along the coast of the country of Caux (calx, lime), whilst a lateral arm
turns south, in the direction of Havre. The port of that town is thus threatened
from various directions. The ocean current transports thither its pebbles ; the debris
carried down by the Seine gradually silts up the estuary of the river ; and the
rivers of Calvados convey thither the sands and pebbles of Lower Normandy. The
efforts of the engineers to avert the fate threatening the port, and which has
already overtaken Honfleur, on the left bank, are incessant.
Fortunately the conflicting ocean currents which meet at Havre possess
attendant advantages, for they produce three tidal waves, arriving in succession,
and the period of high water, instead of being limited to eleven minutes, extends
over three hours. Vessels are thus afforded ample time to enter the docks.
Topography.
YoNNE. — This department is named after the principal tributary of the Upper
Seine. It includes portions of the ancient provinces of Burgundy, Orleanais,
and Champagne, and the great high-road from Paris to Lyons runs through it.
Agriculture supports most of the inhabitants, and wine, cider, and beer are
amongst its products.
Aiixerre (15,656 inhabitants), the capital, occupies the slope of a hill on the
left bank of the river Yonne. It boasts of a magnificent cathedral, the finest in
all Burgundy, and carries on a considerable trade in wine, the best being grown
near Chablis (2,185 inhabitants), to the west. Fontenay, noted for a great battle
fought in 841, lies to the south-west.
Aiallon (5,337 inhabitants), built on a rock overlooking the valley of the
Cousin, has a few medifcval buildings, and carries on some trade ; but in the eyes
of the antiquarian it is eclipsed by the ancient capital of the district, Vizelay, on
the Cure, now in ruins, but in the twelfth century a famous place of commerce and
HAUTE-MAENE. 291
pilgrimage. It was here that Richard Coeur de Lion met the King of France in
1190, when preparing to start upon the third crusade.
St. Floretitiii (^2,25(3 inhabitants), Toniierre (4,991 inhabitants), and Aitcy-k-
Franc are the principal places on the Armanyon. Tonnerre, lying on the railway
from Paris to Lyons, carries on some trade in wine.
La Roche, at the confluence of the Arman^'on with the Yonne, is a busy railway
centre. Following the river, we pass Joigny (p,Wib inhabitants) and its vineyards,
and Villeneuve- stir- Yonne (3,606 inhabitants), and reach Seim (12,251 inhabitants),
the old capital of the Senones. Its cathedral is a most remarkable edi6ce, with
windows painted by Jean Cousin. A chapter-house and the episcopal palace,
equally remarkable, adjoin it.
AuBE is cut in two by the river Seine, which divides it from south-east to
north-west, and is named after a tributary of that river. The surfitce is for the
most part hilly, and moderately wooded, and in the north the department merges
in the monotonous plain of Champagne. The soil is generally sterile.
Troi/cs (41,275 inhabitants), the ancient capital of Champagne, the ancient
Augustobona, on the river Seine, is altogether without natural defences, and
thus fell an easj' prey to every foreign invader. The town, however, took
advantage of its central position, and in times of peace its commerce and industry
flourished. The revocation of the Edict of Nantes nearly ruined it. It is now a
great centre of the hosiery industry, and the nurseries in the neighbourhood enjoy
a wide reputation. Amongst its edifices the first place must be accorded to a
magnificent cathedral, one of the finest in France. An ancient abbey now serves as
a library and museum. The old ramparts have been converted into delightful
walks. Higher up on the Seine is Bar -aur- Seine (2,512 inhabitants), the insigni-
ficant capital of an arrondissemcnt. Near it, in the valley of the Laigne, are the
three Riceys (2,755 inhabitants). Descending the Seine, we reach Roiiiilly (4,925
inhabitants) and Nogent-sur-Seine (3,335 inhabitants). Near the latter stood the
abbey of Paraclet, the retreat of Abelard.
The river Aube, on entering the department, flows beneath the stately abbey
of Clarrtaux, now converted into a convict prison. At Bar-sur-Aube (4,495
inhabitants) the Aube leaves the hilly district and enters the chalky plain of
Champagne, flowing past Brienne (1,860 inhabitants), where Napoleon first
studied military science, and Arcis-sur-Aube (2,817 inhabitants), the birthplace of
Danton.
Haute-Marne is divided by the plateau of Langres into two distinct sections,
of which the southern is dr.iine<l into the Saone, whilst the northern, eml)racing
the districts of Bassigny, Vallago, and Pertbois, is traversed by the Upper Marne,
the Upper Meuse, and the Upper Aubcj these three rivers rising within the
department. More than a fourth of the surface is wooded. Iron ore abounds.
Bourbonnc-leH-Bains (3,705 inhabitants), famous on account of its springs, is
the only town in the southern section of the department.
Laiiyren (9,488 iuluibitants) occupies a commanding p )sition on the Upper
Marne, and is strongly fortified. It is the old capital of the Lingoues, has a grand
FRANCE.
old gate constructed by the Romans, and a fine Gothic cathedral. Diderot was a
native of Langres. The knives named after the city are manufactured in the
neighbouring town of Noge)d-le-Roi (3,430 inhabitants). Chaumont-en-BasHigiiy
(8,791 inhabitants), on a high limestone terrace at the junction of the Suize with
the Marne, is a quiet country town. A magnificent aqueduct of fifty arches sup-
plies the town with water. Below Chaumont we enter the " black country," in
the centre of which is Joinville-en-Vallage (3,723 inhabitants). Lower still is the
Fig. 213.— The Environs of Laxores.
Scale 1 : 120,000.
. -i Miles.
valley of Osne, famous for its iron foundries. St. Dizicr (9,453 inhabitants) is
one of the great iron marts of France.
Vassij (2,799 inhabitants), in the valley of the Blaise, was an important town
formerly, but has never recovered from the massacre of its Pi-otestant inhabitants
in 1562. Iron mills and foundries are in the vicinity, and higher up in the same
valley lies the castle of C'rey, where Voltaire resided for several years.
Marne, named after its principal river, consists of several well-marked geo-
graphical regions. The Bocage, Perthois, and Argonne, in the south-east and
east, belong to the lower cretaceous formation, and are partly wooded ; Champagne
proper, in the centre, consists of chalk and marls ; whilst the district of Remois
and the hills of Epernay and Suzanne are of tertiary origin. The population around
the industrial city of Reims is dense, but in the monotonous plains it is sparse.
MAENE.
293
Vitry-Ie-Frangois (7,590 inhabitants), on the Mame, is the terminus of the
canal which joins that river to the Rhine. The town has been destroyed
repeatedly, and was last rebuilt by Francois I. Chalons-sur-Marne (20,215
Fig. 214. — Chalons and its Camp.
Scnle 1 : 160,000.
»-.-.1li-0tUr
2 Miles.
inhabitants), the capital of the department, has several fine churches, but the
most remarkable edifice of the town is the old sanctuary of Notre-Darae de
I'Epine, about (i miles to the north-east of it. The industrial art school is one
294
FRANCE.
of the most flouristing in France, and a vast trade is done in champagne. The
old fortifications have been converted into public walks. Near a site now known
as Attila's Camp was fought the battle of the Catalaunian Fields, which broke the
power of the Huns. The " camp of Chalons " is no longer occupied.
Epernmj (15,414 inhabitants), one of the two great centres of the commerce in
champagne, lies on the Marne, embosomed in vineyards. The wine from which
veritable champagne is manufactured is grown on the hills bounding the river,
and in a district extending from Sillery, near Reims, to Arize (2,113 inhabitants)
and Vo-tus (2,371 inhabitants), in the south. Aij (4,007 inhabitants), close to
!l^pernay, is most famous for its cms. In 1873 more than 22,000,000 bottles
Fig. 215.— The Bifurcation of the Grand Morin at Sezanne.
Scale 1 : 320,000.
.l°30'E.deP.
3?50E.deGr.
of champagne were manufactured in the department, and the profit derived from
its sale has furnislied the means for erecting the luxurious ch&teaux dotted
over the country. Several of the towns in the hills to the south of Epornay have
become known through the military events of 1814; as, for instance. La Fere-
Champenoitie, Sezanne (4,(j90 inhabitants), and Montmimil (2,077 inhabitants).
Sezanne, moreover, is interesting on account of the bifurcation of the river Grand
Morin, which rises to the north of the town, a phenomenon similar to that in
connection with the Cassiquiare in South America.
ItciniH (80,098 inhabitants), the ancient capital of the Renii, does not enjoy the
advantage of lying on a navigable river, but a canal connects it with the Marne
MARNE
295
and the Aisne, and five railways converge upon it. It is one of the great historical
cities of France. Clovis was baptized there, and the Kings of France, ever since
Fig. 216. — Reims and £fehnat.
Scale 1 : 226,000.
, 5 Miles.
Philip Augustus, were anointed there by the successors of St. Remy, its first
bi.shop. The cathedral is one of the most perfect Gothic edifices in the world.
296
PEANCE.
Begun in 1212, it was only completed, as we now see it, two centuries afterwards.
Amongst other remarkable buildings are the church of St. Kemy, even older than
Fig. 217. — The Cathedral op Reims.
the cathedral ; the archiepiscopul palace ; the town-hall, with a library and museum ;
and a Roman arch of triumph known as the " Gate of Mars." Modern Reims has
the old Roman city of Durocortorum for its nucleus, and extensive suburbs stretch
SEINE-El'-MARNE.
297
out ill all direoiions. It is a prosperous seat of industry. Champagne is manu-
factured on a scale even vaster than at Epernay ; the woollen industry is of great
importance and there are dye works, glass works, and beet-root sugar manu-
factories. The pastrycooks of Reims maintain their reputation to the present
day. Colbert was a native of the city.
Sie. MenehouM (3,376 inhabitants), on the Aisne, defends the most important
defile leading through the wooded heights of Argoune, and like Valmy, ftirther
west, is frequently referred to in military history.
Seine- et-Makxe lies completely within the basins of the two rivers after which
Fig. 218. — FoNTAINEBLEAU.
Scale 1 : 200,000.
>. ■' 'IVJvh..
. 2 Miles.
it is named. Brie, be'ween the Seine and the Marne, consists of an eocene plateau,
almost arid in its chiiractor, whilst the district of Gatinais, to the south of the
Seine, consisting of miocene sandstones, being better supplied with water, is
more fertile. A few large forests remain, but the greater portion of the
department is divided amongst a multitude of small landowners, busily employed
in supplying the neighbouring city of Paris with com, vegetables, and cheese.
There are many quarries and clay pits, and the manufacture of paper is of con-
siderable importance.
Mdun (11,215 inhabitants), the capital, is the first largo town on the Seine
298
FRANCE.
above Paris, of which it is almost a rural suburb. The most remarkable building
of the town is a huge prison. Near it is the chateau of Vaux-Praslin, with a
collection of paintings, and a park laid out by Le Notre.
Fontainebleau (11,545 inhabitants), at a distance of a couple of miles from the
Seine, and in the midst of a vast forest, is one of the favourite pleasure resorts of
the Parisians. The palace is associated in our memory with the revocation of the
Edict of Nantes, the assassination of Monaldeschi, the captivity of Pius VII., and
the abdication of Napoleon. Sandstone is quarried ; sand for the manufacture of
glass is dug ; and the neighbouring village of Thomery is noted for its delicious
white grapes. Moref, at the mouth of the Loing, carries on a brisk trade, but is
inferior in that respect to Montereau-fauU-Yonne (6,847 inhabitants), higher up
the Seine, at the mouth of the Youne,
Fig. 219. — Paius and the Great Highways
Fbakce.
SIX
which has also a huge china manu
factory, employing more than
hundred workmen.
Provins (7,176 inhabitants), the
old capital of Brie, lies in the delight-
ful valley of the Voulzie, which joins
the Seine from the north, and is com-
manded by a citadel dating back to
the thirteenth century. 'Near N'cmoiirs
(3,857 inhabitants), on the Yonne,
is Biynon, the birthplace of Mirabeau.
Brie-en-Comte (2,685 inhabitants),
on the Yerres, a tributary of the
vSeine, is altogether dependent upon
Paris, which its inhabitants supply
with building stones, lime, vegetables,
roses, and cheese.
Meaux (11,739 inhabitants) is the most important town on ihe ilarne,
houses clustering around an unfinished Gothic cathedral. The treaty
putting an end to the war against the Albigenses was concluded here.
Meaux, like most other towns of the department, is engaged in supplying
Paris with provisions. Lacjnij (4,247 inhabitants) and Chcdlcs (2,351 inhabit-
ants), both on the Marne below Meaux, are dependent upon Paris. The
chateau of Ferrieres, to the south of the former, is one of the most sumptuous
in France.
La Fcrte-som-Jonan-e (3,657 inhabitants), above Meaux, is the centre of the
most fertile district of the department. The millstones procured from its quarries
are exported as far as America. Jouarre (1,747 inhabitants), near it, has the
ruins of a famous convent.
Cotdommiers (4,239 inhabitants) and Ln Ferte-Gaucher (1,849 inhabitants) are
the only places of note in the valley of the Grand Morin. The former exports
cheese, and near the latter are several paper-mills.
its
6c.
o
3
O
ta
a
o
PARIS.
299
Paris and the Department of the Seine are almost identical, for the latter in
reality only consists of that great city and a portion of its environs.
Paris, more than any other city of the world, has been alternately cursed or
raised to the skies by poets and prose-writers ; and, whilst Barbier scornfully
speaks of it as an " infernal vat," Victor Hugo chants its glories as those of the
" mother of cities."
Paris may not be the moral superior of other capitals of the civilised world,
Pig. 220.— The (tuowth of Pakis.
Scale 1 : 128.000.
2 Mile..
but it cannot be denied that at various epochs it proved itself the most active focus
of human thought. Next to Athens, Koine, and Florence, no other city is so
frequently in our thoughts as Paris. No other city has done more to transmit
to us the lights of other days. As an intormodiaiy between the Latin races and
the rest of Europe, it fulfils functions of the utmost coiusequence, and is in some
sort the arbiter between the civilised nations of the earth. In certain respects
Paris is the capital of the world. The strangers who flock to it in thousands
300
FRANCE.
proclaim it to be so. No other city of the world offers equal attractions to
persons of thf most varied tastes. Paris consists of a hundred distinct cities
welded into one, and yet, as a whole, it is full of individuality. London, in com-
parison with it, is wanting altogether in cohesion. In T^ondon the various classes
of society exist side by side ; in Paris, by imperceptible gradations, one class
merges into the other.
Curiously enough, the great geographical advantages enjoyed by Paris have
frequently been overlooked. M. Saint-Marc Girardin says that " the site occupied
by Paris was not intended by nature to become the site of a great city." But M.
Elie de Beaumont and Dufrenoy, in the commentary accompanying their map of
Fig. 221. — Thi? Compvrative Growth of Lonhon and Pakis in Population.
France, point out that features of the soil and subsoil facilit;ited its growth.
Common sense, not guided even by the lights of science, is able to appreciate the
advantages offered by the geographical position of Paris.
Old Lutetia was built upon a group of islands, near the confluence of two
navigable rivers. The elevated hill of Montmartre served its inhabitants as a
watch-tower, whence they were able to espy the approach of an enemy. Paris
not only lies on the great national highway which joins the Atlantic to the
Mediterranean, but likewise on the route connectijig Spain and Aquitaine with
Northern Europe. It is the natural centre of the valley of the Seine and of the
districts bordering upon it. Strategically its position is a strong one, and the semi-
GEOLOGICAL MAP OF
Drawniy A.Vuillenun
CMlk
TERTTARY
Sand and Sandstone Ma vt
r , [■^^[/'V- Corn's* limestone pf Bf»udmmp and C^-nsuir, Cn-een Clays
Seal
NEW YORK.
E ENVIRONS OF PARIS
&0 000
SandstnnrSt Sand Millstones
~i« C/^f-^ar/ of fonlaiuebleau and Flint
ID [
AUuviuqa.
iHud, Sand Modern
ScGvavel Alluritta
3 [ZZD
^^-I>LETON 8c c?
PARIS.
301
circle of hills extending from the Morvan to the Ardennes has very aptly been
likened to the huge outwork of a fortress. These advantages marked out Paris
as the capital of France, but also led to the much-talked-of centralization of the
latter. Paris, being the seat of Government, paid dearly for its privileges by being
deprived of its municipal liberties, and exposed to the risks of foreign invasions
and intestine revolutions.
Amongst the causes which have contributed to the rapid growth of ancient
Lutetia must be mentioned the facilities for provisioning a large town. Beauce
and Brie are both rich granaries, and materials for building exist on the site of
the city, or in its immediate neighbourhood. The coarse limestones composing the
Fig. 222. — The Aueas occupieb by London and Farm.
Scale 1 : 150,000.
1^^^ i4
i
1
Til!
i IH
■^H
^^^^Hk
t-^^m
I^^B
^'y'^0yy^%/^^' '^'^T^^^^^^^^
m^^^^^m^t^^^
f
/■'
i:^
2 MUes.
surrounding hills are easily quarried, and to their existence Paris is indebted for
the fine architectural show it makes.
As early as the Roman age, the island city inhabited by the Gallic tribe of the
Parisians had its suburb on the southern bank of the river, whilst a detached
group of houses crowned the summit of Ste. Genevieve. In the thirteenth century
Paris had outgrown Rome. In the beginning of the eighteenth century its popu-
lation exceeded half a million, but it diminished during the Revolution. In 1800
Paris was finally beaten by London, the former having only 550,000 inhabitants
to oppose the 900,000 of the latter. In 1817 Paris had 714,000, London 1,500,000
inhabitants, and since that time both have more than doubled their population, the
increase of London being most rapid. Paris in 1876 numbered 1,988,806 inha-
bitants residing within the enceinte, but if wo add the suburbs stretching
802
FRANCE.
beyond, its population by far exceeds 2,000,000. Paris, consequently, is the most
populous city of the world next to London.*
Architecturally Paris is one of the finest cities of the world ; and though the
palace of the Thermes is the only building dating back to the age of the Romans,
the number of magnificent structures erected ^ince the rise of the Gothic style is
very large, and the accumulated art treasures challenge comparison, in spite of the
frequent devastations and " restorations " to which the city has been subjected in
the course of nine centuries. In its very centre rises the church of Notre-Dame, a
noble edifice of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, illustrating one of the most
remarkable epochs in the history of architecture. On the same island stands the
Sainte-Chapelle, a marvel of decoration, erected in the space of two years (1245 —
Fie 223. — The Church of Notbe-Dame.
1247). The church of St. Germain des Pres, on the left bank of the Seine, dates
back to the eleventh century, and has been decorated in a masterly style by
Hyppolite Flandrin.
Sf. Germain-rAuxerrois, near the right bank of the river, is a curious jumble
of the Gothic styles of all ages. Its bell gave the signal for the massacre of
St. Bartholomew. St. Severin, St. Merri, and the tower of St. Jacques are
interesting monuments of the Middle Ages. The Hotel de Chunj, erected at the
close of the fifteenth century upon the !«ite of the Eoman palace of the Thermes,
shelters one of the most interesting archscological museums of the world.
* The largest cities of the world are London, 3,533,484 inhabitants; Paris, 1,9 8,806 inhabitants;
New York, with suburbs, 1,649,370 inhabitants; Berlin, 1,062,008 inhabitants; Vienna, 1,001,999
inhabitants.
PARIS.
808
The architecture of the Renaissance is represented at Paris by several master-
pieces, amongst which the Louvre, together with what remains of the adjoining
Tuikries, is one of the most noteworthj'. Its eastern fa9ade, designed by Pierre
Lescot, and decorated with caryatides and bas-reliefs by Jean Goujon, is one of the
marvels of the sixteenth century. In the church of St. Eustache we observe with
astonishment the great height of the vaults. St. Eticnne dii Mont is enriched by
sculpture and painted windows. The Town-hall, destroyed during the reign
of the Commune, is being rebuilt. Near it, and close to the large market
halls, is the Fountain of the Innocents, a chi-f-d' ceuvre of Jean Goujon, the
sculptor.
Amongst more modern buildings there are many which challenge admiration.
The fine colonnade added to the Louvre ; the dome of the Invalides, Mansart's
Fie. -'24. TiiF r'<u-i?T nv TMV T.OIVllF.
cliff-d'ceuvre ; the Pantheon ; the palace of Luxembourg ; the Greek temple of the
Madelaine, designed by Napoleon to perpetuate his glory ; the new Opera House ;
and the Arc de Triomphe, forming a fitting terminus to the noble avenue of the
Champs- Ely sees, would each .lepurately constitute the fame of a less wealthy
town. Most of the public buildings of Paris are, moreover, associated with great
historical events. The Hotel de Ville, the Tuileries, the Paluis-Koyul, and the
Sorbonne are rich in historical associations.
Scientific and art collections abound. The museum attached to the Jardin des
Plantes is one of tlie most valuable in Europe. Most of the numerous scientific
societies and schools have their museums and libraries. At the Conservatoire des
Arts et Metiers (Museum of Arts and Industry) may be seen a collection illus-
trating the progress of the mechanical arts. The galleries of the Luxembourg and
304
FRANCE.
the Louvre are rich beyond measure in works of art of every age. The National
Library contains over 2,000,000 volumes — many more than are to be found in
the British Museum.
At the head of the scientific associations must be placed the Imtttnt, with its
five academies. The 300 elementary schools, supported by the town, are attended
by 190,000 pupils ; the number of students is 9,200, of whom 5,000 study medicine ;
and the number of illiterate persons in Paris is exceedingly small. The Poly-
technic School, the Mining School, the Schools of Fine Arts and of Medicine, enjoy
a world-wide celebrity. Several of the theatres, and notably the Theatre Fran9ais,
FiET. 225.— The New Opera House.
may fitly be enumerated amongst art institutions. The number of scientific
societies is exceedingly large.
Public improvements are being carried out on a vast scale and at an immense
expenditure.* Industrial establishments belonging to the State or private indi-
viduals are numerous. Sugar, soap and candles, glass, copper-ware, iron castings
and steel, and woollen stuff's are manufactured on a large scale ; but Paris
excels rather in its art workmanship than in its manufactures, and the Parisian
ouvrier is distinguished for his intelligence and good taste. Jewellery, bronzes,
engravings, photographs, surgical instruments, watches, and a great variety
of other articles de Paris are produced.
Those portions of the department of the Suine which are not covered with
• Town revenue, 1830, £1,800,000; 1874, £9,066,000. Town debt, 1852, £4,640,000; 1876,
£8,000,000.
PARIS.
ODD
houses or parks are most carefully cultivated. Five or six, and in some instances
as manj' as eleven, crops are frequently gathered from the same plot of land. The
marsh gardens of Paris, covering an area of 3,500 acres and divided amongst 1,800
proprietors, are tilled with marvellous care, but they are not sufficient to supply the
demands of the population. Com, vegetables, and other articles are imported from
all parts of France and from trans-oceanic countries.
As a place of commerce Paris occupies the foremost position in France. Even
Fig 226. — Paris anh its Aqueducts.
Scale 1 : lOO.Ono.
t)°3o f. of R»n5
b'ae 0 «f(>
10 Uilea.
as a port it only yields to Marseilles and Iliivre ; but most of its trade is carried on
bv the railways. Sea-going vessels frequently ascend the Seine to the quays of
the city ; and a project for deepening the Seine, and thus converting Paris into a
seaport, accessible to large vessels, is under consideration.*
Three aqueducts supply Paris with water, the oldest, that of Arcueil, having
been inaugurated in l(i24. The canal of the Dhuis has a length of 81, and
that of the Vanne 107 miles, and the covered reservoirs which they supply hold
• Annually about 20,000 vessels of 2,000,000 tons burden arrive at Paris.
58
306
FRANCE.
100,000 tons of water. Artesian wells have been bored at Grenelle and Passy,
and the daily supply of water amounts to 99,000,000 gallons. A labyrinth of
sewers conveys the waste water into the Seine at Asnieres, the solid matter con-
tained in the sewage being spread over the naturally sterile land around Genne-
villiers, which has thus been rendered productive. Much remains yet to be done
before the sanitary condition of Paris can be called satisfactory. The mortality
(1861 — 69) was 25-5 per 1,000 inhabitants, as compared with 217 in the rural
parts of France.
In addition to several beautiful parks within its walls, Paris owns the fine woods
Fijf. 227. — Paris and its Fohts.
Scale 1 : 500,000.
0° Paris
^^-^— ^— — 5 Miles.
of Vincennes and Boulogne outside of thein. In the latter are the racecourse of
Longchamp and a garden of accliiriatation. Farther away from the town, but still
easy of access, are the parks and forests of St. Cloud, Versailles, St. Germain,
Montmorency, Chantilly, Compiegne, and Fontainebleau. Three great cemeteries
— those of Montmartre, Mont Parnasse, and Pere-Lachaise — lie within the walls,
but the future necropolis of Paris occupies the sterile plateau of Mery, beyond the
river Oise.
The enceinte of Paris has a circumference of 22 miles, and its approaches
are defended by two circles of detached forts, forming a vast entrenched camp of
350 square miles.
SEINE-ET-OISB. 807
Amongst the manj' other towns and villages of the department of the Seine
three are several which are mere suburbs of the great city. Of these the most
important is Vincennes (18,273 inhabitants), joined to Paris by St. Maude (7,499
inhabitants). The castle of Vincennes is historically interesting. The manufactur-
ing town of St. Denis (29,500 inhabit-mts), to the north of Paris, is best known
through its abbey church, the old burial-place of the Kings of France. The
following are the principal places in the arrondissement of St. Denis : — Pantiii
(13,646 inhabitants) and Auberrilliers (14,340 inhabitants), two manufacturing
towns; Bomhj (1,402 inhabitants), famous for its forest; Le Bourget, which recalls
a French defeat; St. Oiten (11,255 inhabitants), with a castle built by Louis XVIII.
and a huge railroad depot ; Clichy-la-Oarenne (17,354 inhabitants), Levallois- Ferret
(22,733 inhabitants), Aanikreit (5,692 inhabitants), and Co/ombes (2,691 inhabitants),
with numerous villas ; Neuilly (20,781 inhabitants) and Conrhevoie (11,811 inhabit-
ants), two suburbs of Paris separated by the Seine ; Piitraux (11,387 inhabitants),
a town of dye works and factories ; Suresnes (5,097 inhabitants), at the foot of
Mont Val^rien; Nanterre (3,890 inhabitants), noted for its holy well of Ste.
Genevieve, its cakes and rosieres ; and Boulogne (21,556 inhabitants), beyond the
wood of the same name.
Sceaux (2,460 inhabitants) is the capital of the arrondissement, to which belong
the towns and villages to the south and east of Paris, the most important amongst
which is Vincennes. The others are : — Montreuil (13,607 inhabitants), famous for
its orchards ; Charcnton (8,744 inhabitants), with a lunatic asylum ; Maisons-Alfort
(7,115 inhabitants), with its veterinary college; Nogent-sur-Marne (7,481 inhabit-
ants), where the river is spanned by a viaduct 2,600 feet in length ; Irry (15,247
inhabitants), with huge factories; Vdry (3,718 inhabitants), abounding in nursery
gardens; Choiny-le-Roi (5,829 inhabitants), with the tomb of Rouget de I'lsle ;
Gentilly (10,378 inhabitants) ; Arcueil (5,299 inhabitants), with its two aqueducts ;
Monfrouge (6,371 inhabitants), Vanres (8,812 inhabitants), Jw/ (7,356 inhabitants),
and Clamart (3,333 inhabitants), near wooded heights, supplying building stones ;
and Fontenay-aux-RoHes (2,804 inhabitants), which supplies the markets of Paris
with flowers and fruits.
Seine-et-Oise, the centre, which is occupied by the department of the Seine, is
in the main a dependency of Paris, and, except in the vicinity of the latter, it is
very thinly populated. Its paper-mills and beet-root sugar manufactories are of
some importance.
Versai/kn (49,552 inhabitants) is now the most sumptuous suburb of Paris, but
when Louis XIV. selected its site for the construction of his vast palace, he had
no idea tha* the two would ever be attached to each other bj' a chain of suburban
villages. The recent selection of Versailles as the seat of Government has done
much to accelerate this junction. The palace, which formerly was the residence of
the King and his court, now accommodates thevSenate and the ('hamlier of Deputies,
and an almost interminable suite of its rooms is occupied by paintings designed to
perpetuate the glories of France. Like its dependent mansions, the Great and Little
Trianon, it has served as a pattern to nearly every sovereign throughout Eurojie,
303
FEANCE.
but not one amongst them has succeeded in building an edifice or creating a park
at all comparable with it. Versailles is associated generally with the old monarchy,
but some of the revolutionary events also have taken place there. It was the birth-
Fi^'. 228. — St. Germaix-en-Laye.
Scale 1 : 110,000.
mi
2 Miles.
place of Hoche, Houdon, Rerthier, and others. Louis XT., Louis XVI., and
Louis XVIII. were born in the palace.
Many of the neighbouring towns and villages enjoy some reputation. Serrcs
(6,512 inhabitants) is famous for its porcelnin ; Sf. Cloud (4,767 inhabitants) has
a fine park and numerous villus ; 8t. Cyr (2,870 inhabitants) is the seat of a
:']liiL.
SEINE-ET-OISE. 809
military college ; at Grigiion is an agricultural school ; Ville-d' Avray, Bougival
(2,121 inhabitants), Louveciennes (1,946 inhabitants), and Marhj are favourite
summer resorts; Huei/ (7,980 inhabitants), at the foot of Mont Valerien, is an
important suburb of Paris, in which Richelieu had his chateau. Near it, below the
hills of Marly, is the pumping station which supplies Versailles and its water
works with the waters of the Seine.
St. Germain (16,978 inhabitants) occupies the summit of a hill, and from the
terrace of its chateau may be enjoyed one of the finest views in the vicinity of
Paris. James Stuart resided in this castle, Louis XIV. was bom in it, and it now
contains one of the most precious historical museums in the world. The pine
forest of Ledia stretches north of the town ; Malnons-Laffitte (2,824 inhabitants)
has a famous caatle built by Mansart ; and Poinsy (4,677 inhabitants), an old
town, is often mentioned in history. Louis IX. was bom there, and the curious
bridge over the Seine was built by him. Argcnteuil (7,934 inhabitants), another
old town, is more especially noted for its early vegetables, its gypsum quarries, and
its inferior wines.
The arrondifisement of Corheil, above Paris, is far less populous than that
of Versailles. Its capital (6,187 inhabitants), at the confluence of the Seine and
Essonne, has corn-mills, a printing office, and other industrial establishments, and
at Essonne (3,609 inhabitants), above it, are the most important paper-nulls of the
department. Mediasval buildings abound in the vicinity, the most famous amongst
them being the castle of Montlhery (2,065 inhabitants), on the banks of the Orge.
Etampes (7,399 inhabitants), on the Juine, in the rich corn district of the Beauce,
has several curious old churches, one of them with a leaning tower. It was the
birthplace of Geoffroy St. Hilaire.
RamhoniUet (4,294 inhabitants) lies in a wooded country within the basin of
the Eure. Francis I. was born there, and the old royal castle is deserving of
notice. The first merino sheep introduced into France were taken to the farm
attached to it. Most of the other towns of the arrondisscment have old castles.
At Dourdati (2,719 inhabitants), on the Orge, is the donjon of Philip Augustus ;
Uoiidan (1,976 inhabitants) has a picturesque old tower; Moiifforf-rAmaiiri/ hoasta
of an old citadel, imposing even in its ruined condition ; and near C/ierreiise, in the
delightful valley of the Yvette, we come upon the chateau of Dampierre, rich in
art treasures. The abbey pf Port-Royal-des-Champs was razed to the ground in
1710, as a place accursed, for Antoine Arnauld and oiher Jansenistes had composed
their works within its walls.
Descending the Seine, we pass the small town of Mantes-hi-Jolie (5,649 inha-
bitants), at the mouth of the Vaucouleurs, its pretty church being reflected in the
water of the river. In its vicinity are the castle of Rosinj, where Sully was born,
and the sumptuous mansion of Roche- Giiyon, with an old feudal castle partly
carved out of the rock. To the north of these, on the Epte, stands the village of
St. Clair, with an old Norman castle.
The arrondisscment of Pontoisc lies to the north of Paris. Eiighien is much
frequented for the sake of its sulphur spi-ings, its lake, and its shaded walks.
310
FRANCE.
Montmorenaj, w'uich almost adjoins it, is famous for Its cherry gardens. Chateaux
and country seats abound in the neighbourhood, the most famous being that of
St. Leu-Tarermj, with the tombs of the last Conde and of Louis Bonaparte.
Pontoise (6,301 inhabitants), on the Oise, is one of the great provision marts of
Paris. The Estates met here in 1561, and Louis XIV. sought a refuge in the town
during the troubles of the Fronde. On the opposite bank of the river is St. Ouen-
I'Aumdne (1,638 inhabitants), with the ruins of an old abbey ; and farther ea^t is
Mery-sur-Oise, with the new Parisian necropolis.
AiSNE lies almost completely within the basin of the Seine, being traversed by
Fig. 229.— Laon.
Scile 1 : 30,000.
I-.B F ofPirib
Half a MUe.
the rivers Marne and Oise, and is named after the Aisne, a tributary of the latter.
The rivers Somme, Escaut (Scheldt), and Sambre rise within its limits, and in the
north-east it borders upon Belgium. Anciently the department formed part of the
provinces of Ile-de-France and Picardy. The naked plateau of Brie in the south,
the wooded hills of Tardenois, the vicinity of Soissons, Valois, and the chalky
country around Laon belonged to the former, whilst Vermandois and the hill
country of Tliierache depended upon Picardy. Agriculture is in an advanced state.
Hemp, flax, beet-roots, and rape seed are extensively cultivated, and the number of
AISNE.
811
sheep is very large. The glass works are amongst the most important in Europe,
and there are also sugar refineries, cotton and woollen factories, and other industrial
establishments.
Chateau-Thierry (5,713 inhabitants), on the Marne, is commanded by the ruins
of a fine old castle. It was the birthplace of La Fontaine. La Ferc-en-Tardenou
(2,068 inhabitants), on the Ourcq, has become known through the large number
of prehistoric remains discovered in the grave-hills in its vicinity. At Port-aux-
Perches the Ourcq becomes navigable, and a railroad connects the place with
Fig. 230.— St. Quentin.
SctUe 1 : 30,000.
Haifa Mile.
VillerH-CotterctH (3,116 inhabitants), the birthplace of Alexandre Dumas, where
Francis T. published, in 1030, an edict which made the use of French compulsory
in all public documents. Ferti-MUon, a village lower down on the Ourcq, was the
birthplace of Racine.
Sommm (10,704 inhabitants), the ancient Noviodunum, on the Aisne, no longer
ranks as one of the foremost cities of France, but the Middle Ages have left it a
fine Gothic cathedral and several other ecclesiastical buildings, and its gardens have
lost none of their freshness.
812
FRANCE.
Lfwn (12,036 inhabitimts), the capital of the department, rivals Soissons in
antiquity and population. Being on the high-road which connects Paris with the
Meuse, the town has been besieged many times. It boasts of a Gothic cathedral,
and of a museum rich in antiquities, many of them having been discovered in the
old underground villages of the neighbourhood. Artichokes and cabbages are
amongst the most important articles exported to Paris.
MirsoH (4,285 inhabitants), on the Upper Oise, as well as Vervins (2,889 inha-
Fig. 231. — CoMPlilGNE.
Scale 1 ; 180,000.
. 2 Miles.
bitants) and other towns of Thierache, engage much in basket-making. Sf. Micfiel-
Rochc/ort (3,281 inhabitants), near the former, has forges and cotton-mills. Guise
(6,242 inhabitants), lower down on the Oise, the native place of Camille Desmoulins
and the seignorial seat of an illustrious family, has huge china and stove works, as
well as other factories. Descending the river, we pjss La Fere (4,896 inhabitants)
and Tenjiiier (3,079 inhabitants), and reach Chninii/ (8,982 inhabitants), with its
cotton and woollen mills, tan-yards, and other factories. A short railway- conveys us
thence to Sf. Gohain (1,957 inhabitants), famous on account of its glass works
AISNE.
818
ever since the thirteenth century. The country around is wooded. PremontrS is
a small village to the east, with a famous old abbey, converted into a lunatic
asylum. Coucy, another village, boasts of one of the finest feudal castles of the
Kg. 232.— Chantilly.
Scale 1 : ISO.OOU.
, 2 MUis.
Middle Ages. Another castle stood at Quierzy, on the Oise : it originally belonged
to the lords of Heristal.
67. Qufiitin (87,1)H0 inhabitants), on the Somme, is the capital of the depart-
ment, a canal, much frequented by coal barges, connecting it with the Scheldt and
the Oise. There are numerous cotton and wooUen mills, machine shops, beet-root
sugar refineries, and other industrial establishments. Among the public buildings a
814 FEANCE.
Gothic town- hall and a collegiate church of the twelfth century are most deserving
of notice. Fre^noy-k-Grand (3,849 inhabitants) and Bohain (5,975 inhabitants)
are smaller towns in the neighbourhood, carrying on the same branches of
industry.
OiSE, like Aisne, has been formed out of portions of Ile-de-France and Picardy.
The river Oise bisects it, the chalk region of Beauvaisis occupies the centre, whilst
more recent tertiary formations predominate in the north. There still remain a
few pine forests, but nearly the whole of the surface is cultivated. Industry is
hio-hlv developed. In china, earthenware, and fire-proof bricks the department
occupies the foremost rank ; its iron mills and foundries are of great importance ;
and there are also cotton and woollen mills and sugar refineries.
Noyon (5,785 inhabitants), Noviomagus of the Eomans, is the first town on the
Oise, and one of the most ancient of France. Charlemagne was crowned in it ; it
was the birthplace of Calvin ; and its cathedral is one of the finest in France. The
old abbey of Ourscamp, below Noyon, has been converted into a factory of cotton
velvets. Compiegne (12,923 inhabitants), below the mouth of the Aisne, is best
known in connection with its forest, ever since the days of Clovis the hunting
ground of the Kings of France. The existing chateau was built in the eighteenth
century, and contains a valuable collection of Cambodian antiquities. Pierrefonds,
at the eastern skirt of the forest, has mineral baths and a castle constructed by a
Duke of Orleans. Still descending the Oise, we pass the old towns of Verberie and
Po>it Ste. Maxence (2,225 inhabitants), and reach Creil (5,438 inhabitants), one of
the great railway junctions of France, and, together with the adjoining town of
Montataire (4,864 inhabitants), the seat of iron works, machine shops, and china
manufactories.
Of the places to the east of the Oise, Scnlis (6,537 inhabitants), in the d.'light-
ful valley of the Nonette, is the most important. The ruins of a Merovingian
palace and an old cathedral point to better days. Ermenonville, with its tomb of
J. J. Rousseau, is higher up in the valley, and Chantilhj (3,476 inhabitants), the
French Newmarket, is lower down. Much lace is made in the vicinity. 'Cripy
(2,646 inhabitants), close to the eastern frontier, is the old capital of Valois.
Clermont (6,101 inhabitants), the capital of the centre arrondissement, has a
large prison and a lunatic asylum. The town has some manufactories of hosiery,
and so have a few other places near it, as Liancourt, St. Just-en-Chamsee (2,395
inhabitants), and Breteiiil (3,034 inhabitants).
Beaiitais (16,591 inhabitants), the largest town on the Therain, a famous old
city, with an unfinished cathedral, a town-hall, and other curious buildings, bus
been known from the most remote times for its cloth, tapestry, earthenware, and
fireproof bricks. Cloth and buttons are also manufactured in the towns below
Beai^vais, amongst which are Noaillcs, Mouy (3,118 inhabitants), and Bury (1,172
inhabitants), as also at Meru (3,517 inhabitants), to the south-east of it.
EuRE is named after a river which enters the Seine within the limits of the
department. Norman Vexin lies to the east. The plain of St. Andre occupies
the south, the fertile plain of Neubourg adjoining it in the north. The
EUEB.
815
lowlands on the estuary of the Seine are known as Ilouniois. The fertile meadow
lands of Lieuvin are in the west, beyond the Rille. Eure depends mainly upon
agriculture and cattle-breeding, but there are also copper, brass, and zinc works,
sugar refineries, cotton and woollen mills.
Vernon (6,384 inhabitants), Gail/on (3,126 inhabitants), and Les Andclys
(3,257 inhabitants) are the only towns of note on the banks of the Seine. The
first of these has quarries, vineyards (the last met with on the Seine), and a huge
Government cloth factory. Gaillon exports much fruit to Paris and England, but
is best known on account of the ruins of a fine castle, built in 1515 by Georges
d'Amboise, the cardinal. Les Andelys consists of two towns, one on the river,
Fig. 233. — Les Andelys.
Scale 1 : SO.Oon.
cS'E.oT Cr
1 AUle.
the other a short distince inland. The latter has manufactories ; the former is
essentially a place of commerce, and the river there is commanded by Chateau
Gaillard, erected by Richard Cceur de Lion. Blanchard, the first aeronaut who
crossed the Channel, was a native of the town, and Nicolas Poussin was born in a
neighbouring village.
The river Epte enters the Seine from the right, flowing through a delightful
valley, the principal town within which is Gkor^ (3,590 inhabitants), with a
famous old castle. Lower down the Seine is joined by the Andelle, which sup-
plies motive power to numerous mills.
The first town reached on ascending the Eure is Louviers (10,097 inhabitants),
a busy manufacturing place, producing cheap cloth and other woollen stuffs.
816
FRANCE.
Ecreiix (11,453 inhabitants), on the Iton, a tributary of the Eure, the capital of
the department, is noted for its cutlery and hardware. At Breteuil, higher up on
the same river, are iron wprks and rolling-mills. The valley of the Avre, another
tributary of the Eure, is the seat of a considerable industry. Its principal town is
Verneuil (3,267 inhabitants). Ivry-la-Bataille, on the Eure itself, is noteworthy
for the defeat inflicted upon the League by Henri IV. (1590).
The river Rille traverses the western portion of the department. Bugles, on
its upper course, has manufactures of copper, brass, nails, and needles ; whilst
Fig. 234.— EOUEN AND ITS Enyirons.
Scale 1 : 320,000.
1° 15W of Paris
l"l J fc ul l^
5 Miles.
Bernay (6,087 inhabitants), in the side valley of the Charen tonne, is noted for its
cottons, woollens, ribbons, and linen. Its horse fairs are famous throughout
Normandy, and in the vicinity are several castles of note, amongst which that of
Broglie is the most remarkable. Still descending the river, we pa.ss Brionne
(3,229 inhabitants), a manufacturing town, and reach Pont Audemer (5,557 inha-
bitants), at the head of the tide, and the only seaport of the department, Quille-
hceut, on the estuary of the Seine, being merely a pilot station.
SEiXE-lNFJiRiEURE (Lower Seine) includes nearly the Avhole of the chalky
plateau of Caux. The hilly district of Bray lies in the south-east. The depart-
1 ll
1 1 I
D
O
O
o
a
o
M
SEINE-INF^EIEURE.
817
ment ranks high for its agriculture, its industry, and its commerce. Rouen and
Elbeuf are great seats of the cotton and woollen industries, whilst Havre only
yields to Marseilles in the extent of its commerce.
Elbeuf (38,343 inhabitants, including its suburbs) is the first town of the
department on the Seine. Its woollen manufactories annually consume £2,000,000
worth of raw material, and, in addition to them, there are print works, machine
shops, and other industrial establishments. There are no remarkable buildings,
two churches with stained windows excepted, but the environs of the town are
picturesque, the Seine being bounded by steep cliffs and extensive forests.
Descending the river, we pass Oknel (3,405 inhabitants), St. Etienne-de-Rouvray
(2,788 inhabitants), Sotfecille (11,278 inhabitants), and the chemical works of
St. Paul, above which rise the bold cliffs of Bon Secours, surmounted by an old
church, and find ourselves within sight of Rouen.
Rouen (104,863 inhabitants), the old capitol of the Veliocasses, the Rotomagus
Fig. 236.— Le Hathe.
Scale 1 : 100,000.
of the Romans, is most favourably situated near the mouth of a great navigable
highway, which places it in communication with the sea as well as with the
interior of the country. The city lies within a basin surrounded by steep hills,
but two valleys facilitate communication with the plateau. Rouen is famous for
its fine Gothic buildings. The cathedral is richly decorated, has beautifully
stained windows, and is rich in ancient tombs, including that of Richard Coeur de
Lion. Its spire rises to a height of 404 feet. The church of St. Ouen almost
surpasses the cathedral in magnificence, whilst the church of St. Maclou is valued
for its sculptured portal, one of the best works of the Renaissance, attributed to
Jean Goujon. The courts of justice are one of the most finished examples of the
Gothic architecture of the end of the fifteenth century. There are other buildings
which almost convert Rouen into an architectural museum, such as the clock-
tower of the old town-hall, the tower of Joan of Arc, and the Hotel Bourgtheroulde.
A valuable gallery of paintings and a library of 150,000 volumes are contained in
S18
FRANCE.
the town-hall, and the number of scientific societies and superior schools is con-
siderable. Corneille, Boieldieu, Fontenelle, and La Salle, the discoverer of the
mouths of the Mississippi, were born in the town, and statues have been erected
in memory of most of them, as well as in honour of Joan of Arc, who perished here
at the stake.
Vessels drawing 16 feet of water can reach the qutiys, and Rouen carries on a
lucrative commerce in spite of the competition of Havre, which guards the mouth
of the river. As one of the great centres of cotton industry it is now without a
rival in France. Its manufactures mainly produce simple and durable stuffs, and
Fig. 23fi. — The Cliffs of Etkrtat.
in years of prosperity over a million spindles are at work at Rouen and the neigh-
bouring towns of Petit- Qiievilly (5,719 inhabitants), Durnefnl (5,618 inhabitants),
Deville (4,183 inhabitants), and others, and the cotton stuifs produced attain a
value of nearly £4,000,000.
Following the windings of the river, the traveller skirts the clifEs of Canteleu
and the Forest of Roumare, passes the small port of Duclair, and encompasses the
peninsula of Jumieges, with its fine old abbey. It was here the Normans landed
on their first arrival in France. Caudebec-en-CaHJe (1,951 inhabitants), with its
tall tower, the port of the old manufacturirg town of Yretot (7,636 inhabitants),
whose seigneurs enjoyed the title of king, is left behind us. Lilkboiine (4,570
SEINE-INF^.RIEUEE.
819
inhabitants), the old capital of Caux, near the mouth of the river Bolbec, boasts of
a few Roman ruins, but Bolhec (9,778 inhabitants), higher up in the valley, is
now the leading town of the country. It is clean and well built, and its inhabit-
ants are engaged in the manufacture of cottons.
We pass Harfleur (1,908 inhabitants), a decayed port, and the castle of Tancar-
ville, built on a commanding cliff near the mouth of the Seine, and reach Havre
(85,407 inhabitants), the great port of Western France. This town is of modern
date, for it was founded by Francis I., as a successor to older towns higher up the
river whose ports hud become silted up. Havre has not only taken care to keep
its navigable channels open, but has also constructed docks, and to the enterprise
of its citizens it is indebted for the supremacy it holds as a maritime city. It is
essentially a seat of commerce, and the only buildings of note are its town-hall
and its museum — the latter with statues of Bernardm de St. Pierre and Casimir
Fig. 237. - FficAMP.
Scale t : 40,000.
. niUfaMile.
Delavigne, the most famous children of the town. The docks and quays are on a
vast scale. Le Havre principally imports cotton, coffee, copper, timber, wool,
skins, corn, and coals. It exports silks, woollen stuffs, cottons, and " articles de
Paris," and England is its chief customer. Lines of steamers connect it with
Northern Europe, the Mediterranean, and America. The town no longer engages
in the cod and whale fisheries, but the conveyance of German emigrants to
America has recently proved a source of profit. There are ship-yards, machine
shops, rope-walks, sugar refineries, a tobacco manufactory, and a few cotton-mills,
besides which the town is much frequented by seaside visitors, a fine beach for
bathing extending as far as Ste. Adresse and the lighthouses of La Heve.*
• In 1875 vossols of 1,377,150 tons burden entered in the foreign trade, and 140,750 tons in the
coasting trade. The exi>orts Hnd imports were valued at £67,200,000.
820
FEANCE.
MontiriUiers (3,554 inhabitants) is the only place of any importance close to
Havre. Along the coast, towns and villages occupy the mouth of each valley.
Just beyond the bold cliffs of Antifer we reach ^tretat (1,976 inhabitants), a
delightful seaside village, " discovered " by the landscape painter Isabey. Then
follow Yport, a small village of fishermen, and Fk-amp (12,074 inhabitants), which
extends for several miles up a narrow valley, and has many cotton-mills. Its port
Fig. 238— Dieppe.
Scale 1 : 17,000.
1- iJTVof Puni
!• S'E.of Gt
■ Quarter of a Mile.
is accessible at all states of the tide to vessels drawing no more than 13 feet of
water, and over a hundred vessels, emploj'ed in the Newfoundland, mackerel, and
herring fisheries, belong to it.
Passing 8t, Valerif-eii-Caiij- (4,090 inhabitants) and a few small villages, we
reach Dieppe (19,471 inhabitants), one of the great towns of the department, and,
next to Havre and Rouen, its busiest seaport. During the Middle Ages the
mariners of Dieppe were amongst the boldest rovers of the sea, and the town,
SEINE-INF^EIEUEE. 821
enriched by commerce, became very powerful. But civil wars and the silting
up of the port, which no longer deserved its Norman name of Diep (" deep "),
destroyed its prosperity. Recently the town has somewhat recovered. Docks
have been constructed ; steamers ply daily between the town and Newhaven ; the
fishery is of importance ; and the carving of ivory, the manufacture of tobacco, and
the entertainment of seaside visitors prove sources of wealth. The fishermen in the
suburb of Le Pollet are supposed to be of foreign, perhaps Venetian, origin. A
statue has been erected to Duquesne, the naval hero who defeated De Ruyter.
An old castle commands the town, and a few miles inland may be seen the ruins
of that of Arqties.
Treport, at the mouth of the Bresle, is a seaport of some importance. Higher
up on the same river is Ea (4,169 inhabitants), an old Gallo-Roman city, with a
castle built by Henri de Guise, and frequently inhabited by Louis Philippe.
Amongst noteworthy places in the eastern portion of the department are
Aumale (Albemarle, 2,052 inhabitants), on the Upper Bresle ; Neufchutel (3,586
inhabitants), famous for its cheese, on the Bethune ; For<jes-les-Eaux, with
ferruginous springs ; and Goitrnay (3,056 inhabitants), on the Epte, a tributary of
the Seine, which exports much butter.
59
CHAPTER XII.
NORTHERN FRANCE.
Basiks of the Somme and the Scheldt ; Picakdy, Artois, and FtAXDEftS.
HE north-western corner of France, between the Channel and the
Gorman Ocean, is by no means of wide extent, but it is neverthe-
less one of the most important districts of the country. Nations,
dittering in language and customs, have repeatedly struggled for
its possession; and the narrow strait, or pas (stride), which there
separates France from the British Islands, has become one of the most frequented
highways in Europe.
Geologically this region is interesting on account of the cretaceous and oolitic
heights of Boulogne, which rise like an island in the midst of the tertiary plains
of Artois and Flanders. These heights were joined at some former epoch to the
Wealden of Kent, from which they are separated now by the Strait of Dover, or
Pas de Calais. They abound in ores and coal, and have added much to the wealth
of the country.
The heights of Boulogne divide the rivers of Northern France into two groups.
Those on the southern slope, such as the Somme, the Authie, and the Cafiche,
like those of Caux, take their parallel course to the ocean, whilst the rivers
descending from the eastern slopes have more sinuous courses, and partly find
their way into the Scheldt.
The Somme is the most considerable river of the country. It rises near
St. Quentin, flows at first in the same direction as the Oise, from which it is sepa-
rated by a narrow belt of country, hardly more than 6 miles across. Near Ham
it turns to the north, and having been reinforced by the Avre above Amiens, it
enters a deep and rectilinear channel cut into a low plateau. The valley of the
Somme distinctly exhibits traces of ancient floods. The river formerly filled up
the whole of the valley, carrying down with it immense quantities of sand and
gravel. It was in one of these heaps of gravel that Boucher de Pertlies discovered,
in 1838, the stone implements which have revolutionised anthropological science.
Much of the valley of the Somme consists now of bogs, and more turf is dug here
than in all the remainder of France.
BASINS OF THE SOMME AND THE SCHELDT.
823
The tide ascends the river as fur as Abbeville; and, by constructing embank-
ments, the estuary of the river has been reduced to 27 square miles, and much of
the land formerly invaded by the sea converted into pastures. The army of
Fig 239.— The Hills of Bouloonb.
Scale 1 : .'MO.OOO.
Ii-i V. ,-P'-"S'4'1
S Miles.
Edward III. crossed this estuary by the ford of Llanquetaque two days before the
battle of Cn'cy (l-54f)). Crotoy, near the mouth of the river, was used as a
harbour up to the beginning of this century, but the engineers have " regulated "
the river, and excavated a navigable canal which leads past St. Valery. The bay,
324
FRANCE.
unfortunately, is silting up, in spite of all their efforts, and sea-going vessels are
able to reach St. Valery only on ten or twelve days every month.
The coast in this neighbourhood has certainly undergone many changes during
historical times. The swamp or lagoon of the Hable, to the south of the Somme,
is clearly an old mouth of that river, the neck of land which now separates it
from the sea having anciently been a bar closing its mouth. The whole of the
shore region, from the bay of the Somme to that of the Canche, and inland as far
as the hills of Artois, is of recent formation. Rue, formerly a seaport, now lies
6 miles inland, and the old port of St. Quentin (Grand-Gouffre) is dry land.
Fig. 240. — The Estuary of the Somme.
Scale 1 : 300,000.
0°| V)'Wof Parn
Dtplh Icjs ttuLn 2 *'? FfLlftcm^ at hjio wnler
De/,tA ^ '.' - S FatAoine
4 Miles.
The peasants of Picardy, in imitation of their neighbours, the Flemings, have won
much land from the sea. They have constructed dykes and drainage works, and
planted the dunes with reeds.
Cape Gris-Nez, which separates the German Ocean from the British Channel,
occupies an important pes tion with reference to the geological changes going on
along the coast. On either side of the cape the ocean currents deposit large
quantities of silt, and the land gains upon the sea, whilst farther away from it,
along the coast of Caux and in Holland, the sea encroaches upon the land. An
upheaval or subsidence of the land has something to do with these changes. To
BASINS OF THE SOMME AND THE SCHELDT.
825
tte west and south of a line passing through Nieuport the land slowly rises
whilst in the east it subsides. At the same time it should be remembered that
the land may subside without the sea encroaching upon it, as long as the alluvium
deposited by ocean currents along the coast is of considerable amount. Such
happens to be the case along the coast of Dunkirk. M. Gaspard has discovered
there a layer of turf containing prehistoric remains at a depth of 10 feet beneath
the marine sands. The land consequently must have subsided there since the
formation of these ancient turf beds. The researches of M. Day at Sangatte and
Wissant, near Cape Gris-Nez, prove that a similar subsidence has taken place to
the west of Calais. He has discovered there a submerged forest, with bones of the
aurochs and fresh-water shells, which clearly demonstrate this fact. At an epoch
Fijf. 241. — Tug Ancient Gulf op Flanders.
Scale 1 : 700,000.
10 Miles.
still more remote an upheaval appears to have taken place, for beneath the dunes
traces of old sea beaches have been discovered far beyond the reach of the
actual tides. '
However this miiy be, during the Inst thousand years the long-shore men of
Artois and French Flaiider.^ have enjoyed a period of conquest in their struggle
with the sea. In the time of the Romans tlie lowlands lying to the north-east of
the hills of Artois along the Belgian frontier were covered by the sea. As lately
as the ninth iind tenth centuries the sea extended as fitr as St. Omor. Even now
the alluvial Holds around that town are beneath the level reached bj- the spring
tides, and a few deep ponds, fringed with willows, still mark the greatest depressions
of this ancient gulf. The promontories which rose on the western shore of this
326
FEANCE.
o-ulf still retain the names tliey received from Norman mariners, sucTi as Mark
Ness, Boker Ness, and Long Ness, and here and there may be recognised ancient
islands rising above the general level of the polders \yhich environ them. In the
Middle Ages the towns of Calais, Gravelines, Dunkirk, Nieuport, and Ostend
occupied a line of dunes, which separated this ancient Gulf of Flanders from the
open sea. The alluvium brought down by the Aa and its tributaries gradually
converted the lagoon sheltered by these dunes into a swamp ; and a swamp it
would have remained to the present day had it not been for the labour of man.
Fig. 242. — The Moehf.s oi- Dunkirk.
Scale 1 : 200,000.
— . 5 ftttiiom L.tnt^
2 Miles.
As early as the seventh century the first embankments were thrown up around the
islands of the ancient gulf. The islands became attached to the mainland, canals
were added to canals, until' they intersected the whole of the country. These
drainage works, which rival those accomplished by the Hollanders and Frieslanders,
are locally known as wateringHrs.
In time of war the sluices were frequently opened to inundate the country
surrounding the fortresses along the coast of Flanders, and it requires years of
labour to repair the injury thus done. Sometimes, when the rains are exception-
ally heavy, the lowlands to the north of St. Omer are covered with water to a
RASmS OF THE SOMME AND THE SCHELDT.
827
depth of 3 feet. When this happens the water has to be drawn off at the ports,
and this produces so swift a current in the canals as to interrupt navigation for
three or four months at a time. On the other hand, in years of drought the small
canals, or watcrgands, dry up, or become converted into fever-breeding, stagnant
pools. This likewise leads to an interruption of navigation, for the sluices must
be kept closed along the rivers, in order to store up water for refilling the canals.
Wells sunk near the coast have been observed to rise and fall with the tides.
The Aa is the principal river of this region, and its channel is altogether
an artiiicial creation. Since the middle of the eighteenth century the river enters
the sea at Gravelines, but before that time its mouth was 3 miles to the east
of that town, and earlier still, up to 1170, it was a couple of miles to the west of it.
The old port of Mardyck was a creation of man, as is that of Dunkirk. The
labour involved in converting the whole of this region into productive land has
been immense, and would never have been accomplished had not the proprietors
of the wateringues beeJi permitted to band together for the common management
of their estates. In 1793 the dykes were cut, as a measure of defence, and all that
portion of the arrondissement of Dunkirk lying below the level of the sea was
Fig. 243. — Sectio.n of the Sikait of Doveu between Dunkikk and Bkoadstaiks.
Soile 1 t 6fiO,000.
. 10 MUe&
inundated. The " Moiires " became lagoons, but the inhabitants, not being
impeded by official interference, very soon succeeded in recovering the ground
they had lost. In works of this kind care must be taken to prevent the mingling
of fresh and brackish water, which inevitably results in murderous fevers.
The shelving beach of sand which bounds the whole of this coast has undergone
but few changes since 1776. At the mouths of the harbours it has certainly
increased in width towards ths west, for the sediment brought down by the rivers
is carried in that direction by the ebb. Nor do the sand-banks lying parallel with
the coast appear to have changed much in the course of a century. They are
numerous, and form a veritable labyrinth, all the more dangerous to the navigator,
as the course to be taken varies according to tide and wind. These banks are
undoubtedly due to the set of the currents, which is generally towards the German
Ocean. In the Strait of Dover the tide sets towards the east, and westerly winds
predominate. The matter held in suspension is thus ciirried towards the north,
and deposited for the most part along the coast of Flanders. The depth of the sea
has decreased 3 to 6 feet since the commencement of this century, but well-
sheltered roadsteads extend along both the English and the French coasts. That of
the Downs, on the English coast, is protected by the Goodwin Sands ; that of
328
FEANCE.
Dunkirk, on the French coast, lies within a chain of sand-hanks fringing the coast
of Flanders.
The centre of the Strait of Dover, between Gris-Nez and the South Foreland,
Fig. 244. — The Stkait of Dover and the Pkoposed Tunnel.
Scale 1 : 1,000,000.
1" \V«'Pari»
10 Miles.
is almost free from obstacles. The greatest depth does not exceed 177 feet. To
the west of this line lie the Varne and Colbart banks, and the engineer who first
Fig. 245. — Section of the Phopo&ed Tunnel.
Scale 1 : 375,000.
■TJ^JW^' '"""'ftall ' ^ ( wT.ile »
(1,.. Ik
t-M-
I'j'oi. (^M-orifc- a ti<( and Caiilt
-.iil.l.-
proposed to connect England and France by a submarine railway intended to
utilise the former of these for the construction of an internafioual city and a
harbour of refuge.
BASINS OF THE SOMME AND THE SCHELDT.
829
No less than 200,000 vessels pass the Strait of Dover annually, and when the
weather is clear it is sometimes diiBcult to count the sails within view. The
width of this strait not exceeding 20 miles, it is but natural that propositions
should have been made to bridge it. In 1802 M. Mathieu proposed to construct a
submarine tunnel, but was laughed at. In 1838 M. Thome de Gamond carefully
studied the locality, and arrived at the conclusion that a tunnel might be con-
structed. Others suggested a huge bridge; others, again, gigantic ferry-boats,
capable of conveying entire railway trains. In 1868 the English and French
Fig. 246. — Extent of Fbench and Flemish.
Scale 1 : 18S,000.
.*|«»^ of St
iFraich-SiFlemCsh, imum TltnusK.
^^—^^—^^^^^ 10 Miles.
Governments took up the question, and since 1875 some progress has been made
in the great work. The tunnel will pass through the impermeable lower chalk, at
a depth of 414 feet below the level of the sea.
Except its seaboard, the densely populated region now under review has no
well-defined natural boundaries. From the line of water-parting separating the
Somme, the Scheldt, and the Oise, the country slopes insensibly almost in every
direction. We can cross the frontier from Belgium into France without noticing
it, and the only obstacles met with by an invading army consist of rivers and
canals, with fringes of large trees, which sometimes impart some beauty to this
330
FRANCE.
monotonous country. A triple line of fortresses defends the frontiers of France,
and the inhabitants of this ethnological border-land have at all times been remark-
able for their warlike spirit. The Nervians, who opposed Caesar, and the Flemings
of the Middle Ages, were renowned for their bravery. The Picardians, who live
to the south of the Flemings, are equally brave, and in some measure they combine
the solid qualities of the north with the quickness of the south. Nowhere does the
political boundary agree with the ethnological one. Near the coast, the Flemings,
or flamirigants, occupy both sides of the boundary, whilst farther east French
is spoken in Belgium as well as in France. The Flemish language has lost
ground since Artois, Picardy, and a portion of Flanders have become a part of
France. It was spoken formerly as far as the gates of Abbeville and Amiens.
In the seventeenth century its use was common to the north of a line drawn from
Boulogne to St. Omer. The country between Lille, Valenciennes, and Cambrai
Kg. 247. — The Goal Basin of Northern France.
ScaJo 1 : 700,00n.
oo|i5E.orPar.»
3o' o°|l»5' i"I •''|i5
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-r^/ i^m^.^'^'''*;^^ ^vijvttjwii ^pf?'^
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2°]3oP. -rGi- s-iiS
5»| },<:, 3-1 So-
vCantdt
did not adopt the French language till the middle of last century. Even in
those districts where Flemish is spoken, the toivns are bilingual, and French is
rapidly gaining ground. Only about 150,000 persons actually speak Flemish
still.
The population in Northern France is very dense, but the resources of the
country are considerable. The soil, in many instances of very inferior quality, is
most carefully tilled, and Montesquieu's remark, that the fecundity of a country
depends less upon the natural fertility of the soil than upon the civil liberty enjoyed
by its inhabitants, is fully borne out by what may be seen in the vicinity of Lille.
The soil there is naturally sterile, but the inhabitants having formerly been
exempted from the payment of indirect taxes and statute labour, were able t > devote
the whole of their resources to the improvement of the land. The agriculture of
Picardy and Flanders ranks high, and excepting in the densely populated depart-
ment of the Nord, the produce not only suffices for local wants, but also supplies
BASINS OF THE SOMME AND THE SHELDT.
881
considerable quantities for exportation to other parts of France and to England.
Calais, Boulogne, and Gravelines export much agricultural produce, the peasants
themselves frequently freighting the ships with eggs, fowls, and cheese, and main-
taining regular agencies in London, Rotterdam, and Antwerp.
For centuries the country has been pre-eminent for its manufactures, and the
Fig. 248. — P6aoNNE-8UR-SoMME.
almost inexhaustible beds of coal will secure it that pre-eminence for centuries
to come. Coal was first discovered in. 1717 at Fresnes, close to Valenciennes,
and since then an exact geological exploration of the entire basin has been made.
Topography.
SoMME is named after the river which traverses the entire department, and
enters the Channel below Abbeville. The soil is carefully cultivated by peasant
882
FRANCE.
proprietors ; the breeding of horses, cattle, and sheep is carried on in the west ; and
nowhere else are the poultry-yards so carefully attended to. There is no coal, but
much turf is cut (1,420,000 tons in 1873). The manufactures include woollen and
cotton stuff, linen, hosiery, and beet sugar.
The Somme, on entering the department, flows past Ham (3,122 inhabitants),
known for its castle, frequently used as a prison of state. It then flows north, in
the direction of Peronne (4,210 inhabitants), one of the most famous fortresses of
France. At the village of Tet-try, close by, Pepin of Heristal won the battle
which secured to him the dominion over Austra-ia (687). At the old abbatial
Fig. 249. — Amiens.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
1 Mile.
town of Corbie (3.977 inhabitants) the Somme is joined by the river Anore, on
which stands the small manufacturing town oi Albert (4,414 inhabitants).
The district of Santerro lies to tha soutli of the Somme, its capital being
Montdidier (4,260 inhabitants), a dismantled fortress. Thi.'s town, as well as the
others in the same district, such as Roye (3,810 inhabitants), Ro.veres (2,437
inhabitants), and VillerH-Bretonneux (5,350 inhabitants), engages in the manu-
facture of hosiery. The tenure of the land is still the same as in the Middle Ages,
and no farm can be sold without the consent of the tenant.
Amiens (61,606 inhabitants), at the confluence of the Arve with the Somme,
the ancient capital of the Ambiani and the Roman Samarobriva, is a town of con-
SOMME.
888
siderable importance. Its cathedral is one of the most sumptuous edifices of the
thirteenth century, and by the side of it all other buildings of the town shrink into
Fig. 250.— The Cathedral of Amiems.
insignificance. There are a museum, a libr.iry, and a botanical garden. The old
walls have been converted into public walks, but the citadel is still maintained in
884
FRANCE.
an efficient condition. The manufactures include linens, woollens, cottons, silks,
and velvets, and there are iron foundries, machine shops, and chemical works.
The market gardens around the town are most productive, and supply even
England with vegetables.
The Sorame, below Amiens, has been converted into a navigable river. Passing
Picquiymj and Longpre, in the midst of turf pits, we reach Abbeville (19,328
inhabitants), a great, commercial port during the Middle Ages, but now, owing to
the silting up of the estuary of the Somme, of little note. There are a fine Gothic
church and the anthropological museum of M. Boucher de Perthes. The manu-
facturing industry produces carpets, linen, iron castings ; and there are rope-walks
and boat-yards. A viaduct, 4,484 feet in length, crosses the estuary of the Somme,
and connects St. Valery-mr-Sonme (3,406 inhabitants) with the railway system of
France. "William the Conqueror put in at St. Valery before he crossed over to
England, but the harbour is hardly accessible now. Fishing-boats generally start
from Crotoy, opposite, or from the village of Cayeux (2,480 inhabitants), on the
open sea. The villages of the district of Vimeu, which extends to the south as far
as Treport, are much frequented for sea-bathing.
The river Maye, which enters the sea to the north of the Somme, flows through
the forest of Crecy, where the windmill which sheltered Edward I. during the
famous battle is still pointed out. Lower down on that river is Rue, a small town.
The river Authie bounds the department on the north. On it is Doulkns
(•1,886 inhabitants), with an old citadel converted into a convict prison for women.
Pas-de-Cal.^is is named after the strait which separates France from
England, and is known to us as the Strait of Dover. The department includes
the greater portion of the old province of Artois, and, excepting the hilly tract
near Boulogne, it consists of monotonous plains of great fertility, traversed by
tributaries of the Scheldt, and by the Aa, the Authie, and the Canche, which
flow into the Channel. The agricultural produce more than suffices for local
consumption, and calves, sheep, poultry, eggs, corn, and vegetables are exported.
The discovery of ooal (annual yield 3,000,000 tons) has led to the establishment of
numerous factories ; and there are iron works, sugar retiueries, cotton, woollen,
and paper mills, copper works, and machine shops. The fisheries, likewise, are very
productive.
There are no towns on the river Authie, hut Borck-sur-Mer (4,107 inhabitants),
behind the dunes to the north of the estuary of that river, is a place of some
importance, with a soa-balhing establishment for 500 scrofulous children, main-
tained by the city of Paris.
The valley of the Canche is densely peopled. Freveiit (3,792 inhabitants), near
the source of that river, has iron works. Hcsdin (3,083 inhabitants) was fortified
formerly ; and Azincourt, where the French were defeated in 1415, is a few miles to
the north of it. St. Pol (3,872 inhabitants) lies in a side valley of Canche. Still
descending the latter, we pass 3foiitrpiiil (3,474 inhabitants), an old member of the
Hanseatic League, and reach Staples (2,948 inhabitants), near the mouth of the
river, the small port cf which is occasionally visited by coasting vessels.
PAS-DE-CALAIS.
S8S
Boulogne (40,075 inhabitants), at the mouth of the Liane, the most populous
town of the department, occupies a position with reference to England which the
Roman emperors appreciated highly. But of the many buildings erected by
them hardly any vestiges remain now. For centuries the town formed an
apple of discord between France and England. It is one of the great maritime
ports of France, communicating daily with Folkstone by steamers. More than
100,000 travellers here cross the Channel every year. The fisheries are of great
importance. The existing harbour no longer answering the requirements of
commerce, the foundations of a new one were laid in July, 1878. The aspect
of Boulogne is more picturesque than that of most commercial towns. The o^d
Fig. 2.51. — BOULOONE.
Scale 1 : 64,000.
0"i45'W.«Crari»
1 Mile.
town occupies the summit of a hill, and is inhabited by the wealthier citizens,
whilst the lower town, apart from its sumptuous bathing establishment and a few
hotels, cannot boast of remarkable buildings. Some of the roads in the suburbs
are quite English in their aspect, which need not surprise us, as nearly one-tenth
of the population is of English birth. T^iese English settlers have contributed
much towards the industrial development of the town. The manufactures
include steel pens, hardware, and linen, and there are saw-mills and marble and
cement works. Le Portel (.3,938 inhabitants), a village to the south-west, is
inhabited by fishermen, and at Samer (1,494 inhabitants) is the model farm of
Haut-Tingry.
336
FRANCE.
On the road from Boulogne to Calais we pass a column erected to celebrate
Napoleon's proposed invasion of England ; Marquise (3,923 inhabitants), with iron
works and marble quarries ; Ambleteuse, where James I. disembarked in 1688 ; and
Audresnelles, where an English company proposed to construct a large port.
Calais (34,922 inhabitants), the rival of Boulogne, consists of a fortified town
and of the industrial suburb of St. Pierre-les-Calais. The town for more than
two centuries (1346—1558) was held by the English, but the bulk of the inha-
bitants are Flemish, and the public buildings remind us of Flanders. St. Pierre
Fig. 252.— Calais.
Scale 1 : 30,000.
Half a MUe.
manufactures more especially cotton and silk tulle, a branch of industry introduced
in 1819 by English capitalists, and still partly directed by English workmen.
There are likewise linen-mills, steam saw- mills, and other establishments. The
exports to England consist mainly of Parisian articles, horses, vegetables, eggs,
poultry, and a variety of manufactures. The harbour of the town is quite inade-
quate, and contrasts very unfavourably with that of Dover, on the opposite side
of the Channel, which is here annually crossed by more than 200,000 travellers.
Guines (3,644 inhabitants), 5 miles to the south of Calais, has bleaching grounds,
NOED. 887
and a pyramid near it marks the spot where Blanchard and Jefferies alighted on
January 7th, 1785, after having crossed the Channel in a balloon. On going from
Guines to Ardres (1,195 inhabitants), we pass, near Balinghara, the Field of the
Cloth of Gold, where Henry VIII. and Francis I. met in 1520.
St. Omer (21,404 inhabitants), on the river Aa, has a mediaeval church, the
ruins of an abbey, and manufactures tulle, muslin, common cloth, and pipes of
every kind. Argues (3,701 inhabitants) is almost a suburb of St. Omer. T/terou-
anue, on the Lys, is a poor village now, but it was an important town until
Charles V. destroyed it in 1554. Near it, at Enguinegatte (Guingatte), was
fought the famous Battle of the Spurs (1513). At Aire (5,058 inhabitants) the
Lys becomes navigable. All the towns in the neighbourhood are centres of
industry. Bethune (9,315 inhabitants) has sugar refineries ; Lens (9,383 inha-
bitants), Neax (4,219 inhabitants), and H^nin-Lietard (5,491 inhabitants), have
coal mines ; whilst Lillers (4,701 inhabitants) is famous for its boots. The first
artesian well was bored near it, and its yield has never diminished.
Arras (26,764 inhabitants), the old capital of Artois, on the Scarpe, a tributary
of the Scheldt, does not yield to Calais or Boulogne in historical interest. It was
famous during the dominion of the Romans for its industry, but the tapestry
which once was produced there is found now only in museums. The most
noteworthy building is a town-hall of the sixteenth century, with a fine belfry.
The abbey of St. Waast, a structure of the eighteenth century, has been converted
into a museum. The manufactures include beet sugar, soap, earthenware, and
lace. The town is strongly fortified, and its fortifications occupy more space than
do its houses. It was the birthplace of Robespierre. Bapaume (3,190 inhabitants),
to the south of Arras, is a small fortress of little note.
NoRD (" north ") is the name of the most northern department of France, and
includes portions of the ancient provinces of Cambresis and Huinaut. The river
Lys bisects it where it is narrowest. The south is hilly and partly wooded. The
centre, intersected by tributaries of the Scheldt, consists of an undulating plain,
whilst the maritime portion presents itself as a dead flat, above which rise a iew
isolated hillocks. Agriculture, industry, and commerce flourish. Cereals, beet-
root, oil-yielding plants, flax, tobacco, hops, and vegetables are cultivated. The
coal mines yield 3,500,000 tons a year. Industry is highly developed. The
textile industries of Valenciennes and Cambrai employ 2,807,600 spindles,
25,810 power-looms, and 85,848 hand-looms. In 1873 were produced 200,000 tons
of beet sugar ; 353,600 tons of cast iron, steel, and hardware ; 3'<i,000 tons of zinc ;
81,750 tons of earthenware and glass ; 22,500 tons of soap ; and 30,600 tons of soda.
The population has more than doubled since the beginning of the century.
Avpsncs (4,636 inhabitants), the capital of the eastern arrondissement, a portion
of the old province of Hainaut, is only a small town, with picturesque fortifications ;
but Fourmics (8,151 inhabitants), to the south of it, has grown into a considerable
town, where^the first glass works of Northern France were established in 1599.
LandrmPH (3,693 inhabitants) and Maubeupe (5,110 inhabitants) are the principal
towns on the Sambre. They are both fortified. At Maubeuge and the neigh-
60
338
FKANCE.
bouring town of Hnutmont (5,180 inhabitants) are numerous iron foundries and
rifle factories. The villages of Malplaquet and Wattignies, both famous in the
annals of battles, are near. Feignies and Jeumont (2,190 inhabitants) are customs
stations on the Belgian frontier. Bavai, the ancient Bavacura, capital of the
Nervians, to the west, was an important Roman station formerly, but is now
merely a village.
Cambrai (16,969 inhabitants), like Bavai, has suffered much during every
war, but has always risen from its ruins, and fought stoutly, too, for its municipal
liberties. Several treaties were signed in the old capital of Cambresis. The
Fig. 263. — Valenciennes.
Scale 1 : 60,CJ00.
1 Mile.
principal buildings are a town-hall and a cathedral. A monument has been
erected in honour of Baptiste, the inventor of a species of cambric known as
baliiste. The principal articles manufactured are cambrics, tulles, and cotton
lace. Caiulry (4,548 inhabitants), Quier;/ (3,467 inhabitants), and Cateau-Cam-
hrem's (9,444 inhabitants), the famous treaty town, in the south-east, manufacture
linen, cotton, and woollen stuffs. So/esmes (5,723 inhabitants), in the east, has
sugar refineries. Descending the Scheldt, we pass Iwiti/ (3,890 inhabitants), the
fortress oi Bouchain, Loiirchcn (3,590 inhabitants), and Bcnmn (11,849), the latter
with coal mines, iron works, and rolling-mills.
NOED.
339
Vaknciennes (22,686 inhabitants) is a first-rate fortress, but the manufacture of
lace, which rendered the place famous during the Middle Ages, has almost ceased to
exist, cambrics and lawn being manufactured instead. The neighbourhood of the
town abounds in coal mines, iron works and sugar refineries. At Amin (6,920
inhabitants), close to the gates of the town, more than 2,000,000 tons are raised
yearly by a single company, employing 16,000 workmen, to whom they pay
annually £400,000 in wages. Large workmen's cities have sprung up in the
vicinity of these coal-pits, which extend from Denain to the fortified town of
Conde-8ur-E»caut (3,282 inhabitants), on the Belgian frontier. Even at St. Amand-
Fig. 264.— LiLLB.
Scale 1 : 70,000.
O'kV E.of Pui-i!
3"6- E.f Gr
. 2 Miles.
les-Eaux (7,243 inhabitants), a fashionable watering-place on the Scarpa, the sky
is obscured by the smoke rising from hundreds of chimneys.
Douai (23,348 inhabitants), until recent times one of the most important
features of France, is the seat of a university, of courts of justice, and of military
establishments, including an arsenal and a gun foundry ; but it also engages in
the manufactures common to the country, and, like the neighbouring towns of
Aniche (4,686 inhabitants), Orc/ifex (3,318 inhabitants), and Marcliicnnes (2,648
inhabitants), it has its cotton-mills, sugar refineries, distilleries, and machine
shops. The old Flemish Parliament House is used now as a Court of Appeal.
340
FRANCE.
The towTi-hall is a remarkable structure. Douai was the birthplace of Jean de
Boulogne, one of the most famous successors of Michael Angelo.
Lille (137,150 inhabitants), on the Deule, a small tributary of the Scheldt, is
the fifth city of France in population. It is strongly fortified, and full of work-
shops and manufactories ; but, with the exception of the Exchange and of a
Gothic church of the fourteenth century, this ancient capital of Flanders cannot
boast of remarkable public buildings. The public gallery of paintings is one of
•Fig. 255. — EouBAix and Tourcoino.
Scale ] : 50,000.
o° bj F. of Paris
3' la'E ofCr
1 Mile.
the richest in the world, containing 200 designs by Michael Angelo, 68 by
Raphael, and many others by the masters of the Renaissance. The manufactures
include cotton stuffs, ribbons, ticking, damask, and woollen stuffs. There are
likewise oil and sugar refineries, chemical works, machine shops, and breweries.
The railway workshops and goods stations are in the suburb of Fives. Many
towns in the neighbourhood carry on the same branches of industry as their
powerful neighbour. Amongst these are Marcq-en-Barmil (4,843 inhabitants) ;
Armentieres-mr-Lys (20,565 inhabitants), famous for its linens ; and Comines (4,011
NOED.
Fig. 256. — The Belfky of Berouss.
841
inhabitants) and Halluin (8,584 inhabitants), the two latter close to the Belgian
frontier. Two other towns in the north, namely, Rouhaix (79,446 inhabitants) and
342
FKANCB.
Fig. 267. — Geavelines
Scale 1 : 60,000.
Tourcoing (33,013 Inhabitants), engage almost exclusively in all branches of the
woollen industry, and are the rivals of Bradford, in Yorkshire, which excels them
in quantity and strength, but must yield to them in beauty of design. The
suburbs of these two towns, Wattrelos (4,102 inhabitants), Croix (2,586 inha-
bitants), and other-s likewise engage in the woollen industry. Roubaix alone
consumes daily 100 tons of wool. The towns have nothing to show beyond their
factories, and the environs are wanting altogether in the picturesque. The Lys,
into which numerous factories discharge their refuse, flows 5 miles to the north-
west. Two villages on the small river Marcq, one of its tributaries, are noteworthy
on account of the battles fought near them. These are Bouvines, where Philip
Augustus defeated the Emperor of Germany (1214), and Mom-en-Pevile, where
Philip the Fair took revenge for the
defeat sustained at Courtray.
When we cross the Lys we enter
the Flemish-speaking portion of the
department. Hazfbrouck (6,363 inha-
bitants) and Bailleul (8,180 inhabit-
ants) are both manufacturing towns,
the latter being the centre of the trade
in the so-called Valenciennes lace.
Cassel (3,224 inhabitants), on an
isolated hill, from which may be en-
joyed a most extensive prospect, is a
famous old CKsf.elhim. Other towns of
some importance are Steenwcrk (4,309
inhabitants) and Siemvoorde (4,018
inhabitants).
The arrondissement of Dunkirk has
but few manufactures, but carries on
a considerable commerce by sea.
Bergues (5,368 inhabitants) is an old
fortress, defending the approaches 1o
Dunkirk. Its famous belfry and the
two towers of an abbey are visible
Bourbourg (2,448 inhabitants) is the principal mart for
Gravelines (4,184 inhabitants), a small fortress, has impor-
Fort Philippe
1 MUe.
from the high sea.
Flemish cart-horses
tant fisheries, and exports eggs, apples, and vegetables to England
was built in 1812, to prevent the smuggling carried on by English vessels employed
by Rothschild ; and the town which sprang up near it was known as the town of
smoggkiirs, or schmokkeler.
Dunkirk (Dunkerque, 35,012 inhabitants) is a Flemish town, its belfry rising
high above the houses which surround it. The town has sustained more sieges
than any other in the neighbourhood. Its most glorious epoch dates back to the
time of liouis XIV., when its mariners, led on by Jean Bart, often held their own
NORD.
848
against whole fleets. But the English at last obtained the upper hand, and it
was destroyed in accordance with the treaty of Utrecht (1713). It has been
Fig. 258.— Dunkirk.
Scale 1 : 26,000.
Hiilfa Mile.
restored since, and even enlarged. There are now three wet docks, capable of
receiving vessels of 1,000 tons burden, and a fourth dock, of larger dimensions
and greater depth, is being constructed. The roadstead of Dunkirk is one of
344 FEANCB.
the safest in the Channel, quite equal to that of the "Downs," on the coast
opposite. The commerce of the town flourishes, and is increasing, and saw-mills,
cotton-mills, oil refineries, and other manufacturing establishments have been
founded. The mariners of the town engage in the Newfoundland fisheries. Close
to the walls of Dunkirk was fought the battle of the Dunes (1558), when
Turenne beat Conde and his Spaniards. At Hondschoote (1,870 inhabitants), a
neighbouring village, the Austrians were defeated ia 1793.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE VOSGES.
Basivs of tub Mbuse and tuk Moseub. .
General Aspects.
jORTH-EASTERN France, within its present limits, may almost be
looked upon as a continuation of the basin of Paris. There, too, as
in Champagne, we meet with old beaches from which the sea has
gradually retired, and many of the rivers, in their upper course,
exhibit a remarkable parallelism with the Seine. The two great
rivers of the country, however, the Meuse and the Moselle, flow to the Rhine.
The system of the Vosges extends, under various names, from the Upper Soone
to the great bend of the Rhine near Mayence. The nucleus of this mountain
system consists of a triangular citadel of crystalline rocks, and if the sea were to
rise 1,500 feet, this mountain mass would be converted into an island. Amongst
the sedimentary rocks which form the inferior slopes sandstone predominates.
It is generally tinged red by oxide of iron, frequently forms bold cliffs, or is
split up into huge blocks resembling fantastically shaped castles. The Vosges
bear a striking resemblance to the Black Forest, on the opposite bank of the
Rhine. The geological formation of both chains is the same ; in each we meet
with magnificent pine forests, above which rise dome-shaped summits clothed with
tender grasses and a carpet of flowers. Both chains rise steeply from the wide
valley of the Rhine, but slope down gradually towards the interior of the country.
The low range of the Faucillcs and the plateau of Langres connect the
Vosges with the mountain system of Central France. The Faucilles are wooded,
intersected by numerous rivulets, and easy of access. They are of Jurassic age,
whilst the plateau of Langres is covered with chalk. In the south, a deep depres-
sion, known as the " gap of Belfort," separates the Vosges from the Jura. This
gap, through which run a road, a railway, and a canal, has at all times played
an important part in history. Immediately to the north of it rise some of the
highest summits, or hallom, of the Vosges, including the Ballon d'Alsace
(4,100 feet). For 75 miles the present boundary between France and Germany
follows the crest of the Vosges; but to the north of the Grand Donon
Gl
346
FRANCE.
(3,313 feet), a huge mass of sandstone, with a gigantic stone ring upon its
summit, the victorious Germans have adjudged themselves both slopes. In the
Vosges, as in many other mountain chains, the culminating summits rise at
some distance from the crest. The most elevated mountain of the entire chain,
the Ballon, or "Belchen," of Sulz (4,677 feet), rises about 8 miles to the
Fig. 259. — Glacieks of the Vosoes.
Scale 1 : 360,000.
WO'I.OIPiris.
. 2 Miles.
east, being almost cut off from the main range by the delightful valley of St.
Amand. Standing upon this mountain, our eye ranges as far as the snowy summits
of the Bernese Oberland. Eleven fine roads run across this southern portion of
the Vosges, the most famous amongst them being that known as the " Schlucht "
{i.e. gorge), which connects Gerardmer with Munster.
The contrasts between the French and the Alsatian slopes of the Vosges are
GENERAL ASPECTS.
847
not confined merely to a difference in the gradient, but extend likewise to climate
and vegetation. The rains are heavier on the western slope than on the eastern.
At Strasburg and Colmar the annual rainfall does not exceed 27 inches, whilst
at Mirecourt and Vesoul it amounts to TiO inches. The cause of this is evident.
The westerly winds, on reaching the Vosges, part with most of their moisture.
In Lorraine the sky is often clouded ; and whilst the vine flourishes in Alsatia up
to a height of 1,300 feet, its cultivation is impossible along the western slope oi
the mountains, owing to the rigours of the climate.
To the same cause must be traced the great extent of the glaciers, which in
Fig. 260.— Tub Lakes op G^rabduek and Lonoeheb.
Scale 1 : 125.000.
6° io'K.of Or
?lii-
1 3ine.
a former age covered the western slope of the mountains, and descended into
the ocean, which then reached to their foot. One of these glaciers occupied the
valleys of the Upper Moselle, and that of the Moselotte, and extended beyond
Gemiremont as far as Eloyes. A gigantic dyke, nearly 200 feet in height, and
partly destroyed by the floods of the Moselle, still marks the site of the terminal
moraine. In area this glacier far exceeded that of Aletsch, now the most
considerable in Europe, and M. Hogard thinks that at one epoch it spread like-
wise into the valley of the Meuse, where erratic blocks of Vo-sgesian origin
abound.
Old moraines, rock-scratchings, and other evidences of glacial action abound.
348 FEANCE.
The country around Gironiagny, to the north of Belfort, is strewn with huge
blocks, as if a battle of giants had been fought there. In the west, towards
Luxeuil, the streams of ice have worn away the surface of the hills, and
small lakes or mores abound, one of them discharging one streatn into the
Moselle, and another into the Saone. Small lakes, some of them reflecting
dark pines, and others embedded in verdant meadows, are also met with in
the upper valleys of the Moselle and its tributaries. Most of them owe their
existence to moraines, which dam up the rivers. Some of the best known of
these lakes are near the Pass of the Schlucht. The small Lake of Retournemer
occupies a cup-shaped cavity, whilst the larger Longemer occupies the valley
lower down, giving rise to the Vologne, which, not far from the lake, rushes
headlong over a ledge of granite, and then swallows up the emissary of the lake
of Gerardmer (2,180 feet). This latter is the largest lake in the Vosges. It
is shut in, on the west, by a moraine 230 to 260 feet in height, has a depth of
246 feet, and overflows towards the east. The surrounding country, with its
sombre forests and emerald meadows, is one of the most charming to be found
in the Vosges, and in comparing the beauties of nature with those of the works
of man the inhabitants of the country may well say, " What would Lorraine be
without Gerardmer and a bit of Nancy ? "
That portion of the Vosges which was formerly covered with glaciers is
most plentifully irrigated. The Moselle, the Moselotte, the Vologne, and the
Meurthe have all forced themselves a passage through ancient moraines. The
Hohneck (4,460 feet), at the head of the ancient glacier of Gerardmer, forms the
centre of dispersion of the rivers of the Vosges. Most of these rivers flow into
the Alsatian 111, or into the Moselle, both of which are tributarj^ to the Rhine.
The Meuse, too, flows now into the Rhine, but at some former epoch it appears
to have been a separate river, and it actually retains its name down to the sea.
It first describes a large curve, almost parallel with the Moselle or Little Meuse.
Its course, as is the case with many rivers flowing through a limestone region, is
partly underground. In summer the river is almost entirely swallowed "up near
the village of Bazoilles, and reappears 2 miles below, at Noncourt. Having
been joined by the Chiers, the Meuse winds along the schistose rocks of the
Ardennes. Below Charleville it pierces the plateau, forming a succession of
picturesque gorges, equally attractive to the artist and the geologist. The
river meanders 600 or. 1,000 feet below the level of the plateau, sometimes
hemmed in by steep cliffs, at others bounded by tree-clad slaty slopes, presenting
a charming contrast to the reddish or variegated cliffs. The valley offers but
scanty accommodation for towns and villages, and one of the former, Montherme,
is so much shut in that the rays of the sun only reach it during part of the day.
Where the Meuse crosses the French frontier it discharges 27 tons of water a
second during summer, and twenty or twenty-five times that quantit}- when in
flood.
The plateaux which bound the valley of the IMeuse are covered with woods,
pastures, bogs, or naked rocks, and cultivable little valleys are few and far
GENERAL ASPECTS.
849
between. The schistose heights of the Fagnes, or Fanges, to the east of the
river, are most melancholy of aspect and very thinly populated. Their name has
reference to the pools of stagnant black water which abound there. Formerly the
"sombre and formidable" Forest of the Ardennes occupied the whole of the
country between the Scheldt and the Rhine. Wild boars and other beasts were
numerous then, and the forest was much dreaded. Most of it has been destroyed,
towns and villages now occupy the valleys, and the stubborn soil is made to yield
harvests.
The Ardennes and the Vosges have played no inconsiderable part in the
Fig. 261. — Meanderinos of thb Meush.
Scale 1 : 16O,00U.
2?20VolP.
ft? 40' w. Of Gr.
5 MUes.
history of France. The Ardennes more especially have at all times proved a
formidable obstacle to invading armies, not so much on account of their width
and their deep valleys, but because of their being very thinly populated. The
roads open to an invader either lead through the valley of the Moselle, to the east of
the Ardennes, or through the valley of the Oise and the plains of Flanders, to the
west of them.
Ethnologically the Ardennes and Vosges are even more important than in a
military point of view, for they form a linguistic boundary, and have prevented
the Germanisation of North-eastern France.
S50 FBANCE.
Lorraine, cr Lotharingia, thus named nfter Lothar, tlie grandson of Charle-
raagne, is French in spite of its German name. The inhabitants, as far as
records can prove the fact, have alwaj's spoken a Latin dialect. Physically the
Lorrainers differ from the Germans by having short and nearly round skulls.
Their minds, too, are differently constituted. Cool, reflective, calculating, and
circumspect, they have none of the mysticism of their neighbours the " Swabians."
These latter have at all times designated them as " Welsh."
Topography.
Meuse is named after the river which, rising on the plateau of Langres, traverses
the department in a north-westerly direction. A portion of it is drained into the
Seine. Jurassic and cretaceous rocks cover the whole of the country, and the
hills are for the most part wooded, more especially in the Argonne, on both banks
of the Meuse. The naked plain of the Woevre, intersected by the Orne and its
tributaries, lies to the east. Horse-breeding is carried on extensively, and there
are iron and steel works.
Bar-k-Dm (16,643 inhabitants), on the river Ornain, is the most populous
town of the department. It has many manufactoi'ies, and the canal which con-
nects it with the Rhine and the Marne offers great facilities for the export of
wine and other products. The town is noted for its candied fruits and pastry.
The museum of the town contains a few Roman antiquities discovered near Ligny-
en-Barrois (4,128 inhabitants), on the Upper Ornain.
Vaucoukurs (2,475 inhabitants), associated with the history of Joan of Arc, is
the first town met with on descending the Meuse. Then follows Commercy
(4,960 inhabitants), with a fine castle, now used as barracks. The pastrycooks
of Commercy are famous for their " madeleines." St. Mihiel (5,146 inhabitants),
the old capital of Barrois, boasts of two fine churches, with sculptures by Ligier
Richier, who was born here. It is defended by a modern fort. Verdun (15,433
inhabitants), lower down on the Meuse, is one of the most important fortresses of
France, defending the defiles of the Argonne. In history it is famous for the
treaty of 843, which partitioned the Carlovingian Empire. The town is noted
for its confectionery and liqueurs. Etain (2,815 inhabitants) lies to the east
of Verdun, in the plain of Woevre, and on the road to Metz. Stenay (2,376
inhabitants), on the Meuse, has iron works and biscuit bakeries. Montmedy
(2,219 inhabitants), on the Chiers, is merely a fortified village, whilst Clermont
and Varennes, on the river Aire, and near the great Forest of Argonne, are
places of no importance whatever. Louis XVI. was arrested at the latter in
1791.
Akdenxes is named after the old forest which still covers about one-fifth of its
area. Champaign plains of cretaceous formation extend in the south ; the Jurassic
hills of Argonne occupy the centre ; and the cold schistose plateau of Ardenne
spreads out in the north, traversed by the deep gorge of the Meuse. There are iron
mines, slate quarries, beds of phosphatic nodules, iron works, and woollen-mills.
AEDENNES.
861
Sedan (15,862 inhabitants), on the Meuse, below its confluence with the Chiers,
first rose into importance in the thirteenth century, when the Dukes of Bouillon
made it their capital. The town suffered much in consequence of the revocation
of the Edict of Nantes ; but its cloth manufacture revived soon after, and is now
of very great importance. There are likewise iron foundries ; and the valley of
the Chiers, in which lies Carignan (1,874 inhabitants), is one of the great centres
of the iron industry of the department. Turenne and Macdonald were natives of
Sedan. Its capitulation on September 2nd, 1870, put a termination to the Second
Empire.
Charkrille (12,881 inhabitants) and Meziires (5,204 inhabitants) are twin
Fig. 262.— Charletille and HiziiREg.
Scale 1 : 50,000.
1 Mile.
cities. The latter, occupying the neck of a peninsula formed by the Meuse, is a
strong fortress, often besieged, but rarely taken. Bayard, in 1521, successfully
defended it against Charles V. Charleville, only founded in 1606, is a place of
commerce and industry, with foundries, nail works, and manufactories of tools.
In the vallov of the Sormonne, which joins the Meuse near Mezieres, are the slate
quarries of Rimogne. Still descending the Meuse, we pass Noiizon (5,225 inhabit-
ants), which manufactures nails, railway rolling stock, and agricultural machines,
and Fumay (4,589 inhabitants), with immense slate quarries, and finally reach the
852
FRANCE.
triple town of Gicet (6,272 inhabitants), with its citadel of Charlemont, constructed
by Charles V. Pipes, pencils, sealing-wax, glae, and hardware are manufactured.
Roeroy (1,052 inhabitants), on the cold plateau to the east of the Meuse, is an
important fortress.
The south-western portion of the department is drained by the river Aisne.
Its most important town is Rvtliel (7,364 inhabitants), formerly a fortress, with
Fig. 263.— fipiNAL.
Scale 1 : 30,000.
Half a Mile.
manufactures of merinos. Ascending the river, we pass Attujny, where the
Merovingian and Carlovingian kings frequently resided, and Wittekind, the
chieftain of the Saxons, was baptized, and reach Voiiskrs (3,425 inhabitants), at
the head of navigation. Gerson, the birthplace of the famous Chancellor of the
Paris University, stood a few miles to the north of Rethel.
VosGEs is the name of a department bounded by the Vosges Mountains in the
VOSGES. 353
east, but occupied for the greater part by the Monts Faucilles, which form the
water-shed between the Rhine and the Saone. Its northern portion is drained by
the rivers Meurthe, Moselle, and Meuse, whilst the Saone and several of its
tributaries rise in the south-west. The climate is inclement, and one-fourth of
the country is covered with forests. The manufacture of paper and of cotton
stuffs is of importance.
Neufchateau (3,920 inhabitants) is the only town on the Meuse, which crosses
the western comer of the department. It is the Noviomagus of the Romans, and
Roman remains abound throughout this region. Files, nails, and tools are manu-
factured. Domreiiiy-lu-Pncelle, the birthplace of Joan of Arc, is close by. In the
valley of the Vair, which joins that of the Meuse, are the mineral springs of
ContrexMlle and Vitlel. The neighbourhood of the latter is noted for its fine oak
forests, and there are glass works and iron forges.
Mirecourt (5,169 inhabitants), on the Madon, a tributary of the Moselle, has
tan-yards, and manufactures violins, organs, and other musical instruments. Much
lace is made in its neighbourhood.
The river Moselle, not far from its source, flows past Bttssang (798 inhabitants),
noted for its gaseous springs. Remiremont (7,211 inhabitants), delightfully
situated at the confluence of the Moselle with the Moselotte, has a fine old abbey,
now used as a court of justice, a library, and a town-hall. La Bresse (1,506 inha-
bitants), in the picturesque valley of the Moselotte, is known for its cheese, butter,
and wood carvings. There are several cotton-mills lower down on the river.
The Viilldj of Ajol, near Remiremont, with its numerous villages, is famous for
its picturesque beauties. Still descending the Moselle, we arrive at Epinal
(13,827 inhabitants), the capital of the department. The town possesses a fine
picture gallery and rich geological and archajological museums. Coarsely painted
images of saints are manufactured, and the number of cotton-mills has largely
increased since the annexation of Alsatia by Germany. Chamagne, a village lower
down on the Moselle, is famous as the birthplace of Claude Gelee, known as
Claude Lorraine.
Gh-anlmer (2,331 inhabitants), a town in the valley of the Vologne, which
joins the Moselle above Epinal, is the principal seat of the wood-carvers, and a
hand-loom is found in nearly every house.
RambernllerK (4,910 inhabitants), on the Mortagne, a tributary river of the
Meurthe, is surrounded by factories and hop gardens ; but St. Die (12,020 inha-
bitants), on the Meurthe itself, far exceeds it in importance. The cathedral and
several of the other churches are venerable for their age. Cotton stuff's, carpets,
hardware, and piper are manufactured, and there are numerous saw-mills.
Raon-l' Etapp (3,601 inhabitants) is the principal place in the Vosges where paper
is manufactured from aspen-wood.
Moi/enmoutier (1,622 inhabitants) and Seiioiifs (2,542 inhabitants) are two old
towns in the valley of the Rabodeau, each with a cottua-mill installed in an
ancient castle.
There are no large towns in that portion of the department which lies within
854 FEANCE.
the basin of the Saone. Plomhieres, to the south-west of Remiremont, is noted
for its hot and cold springs, which attract thousands of visitoi'S annually. Bairn,
a village farther west, has springs equally efficacious as those of its more popular
neighbour, Xertigny (2,025 inhabitants), Fontenoy-le- Chateau (1,738 inhabitants),
and other villages in the neighbourhood engage in the manufacture of nails,
cutlery, and tools, and embroider lace for Paris houses.
Meurthe-et-Moselle, the principal river of which is the Moselle, with its
tributary the Meurthe, includes two-thirds of the old department of Meurthe and
about one-fifth of that of the Moselle, the remainder having been surrendered
to Germany. The country is generally well cultivated, its mineral wealth con-
siderable, and its industry flourishing. Iron and steel, glass, china, and paper are
the principal articles produced.
Baccarat (5,128 inhabitants) is the first town on the Meurthe lying within
the department, and is famous on account of its glass. Lunecille (15,878 inha-
bitants), at the confluence of the Meurthe and the Vezouze, manufactures watch
glasses, and carries on much commerce. The treaty of 1801 was signed here,
and in the eighteenth century Luneville was the residence of the Duke of Lorraine,
whose palace has been converted into barracks. Blamont (2,337 inhabitants) and
Cirey (2,324 inhabitants), both on the Vezouze, are small manufacturing towns,
the former having a cotton-mill, the latter glass works.
Once more descending the Meurthe, we pass St. Nicolas-dn-Port (4,109 inha-
bitants), from which the salt obtained from the mines in the vicinity is
exported, and reach Nancy (66,303 inhabitants), the ancient capital of Lorraine.
In the seventeenth century this was a small ill-built town, for modern Nancy,
with its wide and straight streets, was in reality founded by Stanislas, father in-
law of Louis XV. A triumphal arch, numerous statues, a ducal palace, now
converted into an archaeological museum, remind us that Nancy formerly had a
court of its own ; but the most interesting building of the town is the Franciscan
church, in which are several fine monuments of the Dukes of Lorraine. Nancy
has its university, a library, a natural-history museum, and botanical gardens,
and is ambitious of becoming the mediator of scientific thought between France
and Germany. Several of the great cotton lords of Alsatia have transferred their
mills to Nancy and its vicinity, besides which the manufacture of cloth, of hats,
and of artificial flowers is busily carried on.
Froitard (2,404 inhabitants), at the confluence of the Meurthe with the Moselle,
has been strongly fortified since the war. Pont-d-MousHon (9,904 inhabitants),
on the Moselle, was the seat of a university up to 1703. It is important now on
account of its iron works and needle maimfactories. Pagny, on the German
frontier, is an important customs station. The ruins of the feudal fortress of
Pr^ny, the finest in all Lorraine, are near, and Roman antiquities abound through-
out this region.
Toal (9,566 inhabitants), on the Moselle, an old episcopal city, boasts of two
fine Gothic churches. As a fortress defending one of the great historical high-
ways of France it has been frequently besieged, and often taken and devastated.
MEURTHE-ET-MOSELLE.
855
Above the town the canal connecting the Marne with the Rhine is carried across
the Moselle.
The narrow slip of territory in the north, all that remains to France out of
the old department of Moselle, has Briey (2,099 inhabitants), to the north-west
Fig. 264.— Nanct.
Scale 1 : 60,000.
of Metz, for its capital. South of it is the village of Mars-la- Tour, remembered
in connection with the events of 1870. Longwy (2,939 inhabitants) and Longuyon
(2,020 inhabitants), both on the Chiers, close to the Belgian frontier, have iron
works, forges, and other industrial establishments. Longwy is defended by
a citadel.
CHAPTER XIV.
STATISTICS OF FEANCE .«
PoPULATrON.
N order to enable us to judge of the strength of a nation we must
carefully inquire into the statistics available with respect to it, and
weigh their import. Such an inquiry we now propose to institute.
History may exhibit the genius peculiar to each nation, but
statistics certainly make known to us the resources available for
continuing the struggle for existence. " The future of a nation," says a Japanese
proverb, " lies in its present, as the unfledged eagle lies within the shell of
its egg."
One great fact meets us at the outset of our inquiry. The population of France
has vastly increased since the Revolution, and men live longer now than they did
formerly. Still that increase has not been as rapid as in most other countries of
Europe, and there were actually periods when the population decreased.! The
calamities of the war of 1870-71 are plainly indicated in the population statistics.
But there are other causes which retard the increase of the population of France.
The number of births in excess of deaths was 172,950 in 1872, 101,775 in -1873,
and lf31,920 in 1876, which is far less than in other countries ; and whilst at the
beginning of the century Frenchmen constituted one-fifth of the European popu-
lation of the world, they now constitute only one-tenth.
Physical degeneration is not the cause of this slow increase, for the number of
exemptions from military service granted on account of physical infirmities is
decreasing from year to year. The large number of bachelors and spinsters is
certainly one of the causes, for 500,000 soldiers and sailors are not allowed to
marry, 200,000 priests and nuns have taken vows of chastity, and many others are
compelled by circumstances to lead a life of celibacy. J But there are other causes,
* M. Block, "Annuairede I'ficonomie Politique" and " Statistique de la France;" E. Levasseur,
" La France avec 8p8 Colonies; " L' Econoinisle. Frim<;nis ; Journal des £coiioinist<:s.
f Pupulatioa within present limits of France:— 36,469,836 in 1866; 36,102,921 in 1872- 36 905,788
in 1876.
X Of every lOn Frenchmen 21 years of Hge and upwards, 61 are bachelors, 41 are niiirried, nnd o are
widowers; of every 100 women of thu same age, 48 are spinsters, 40 are mi.rried, and 11 are widows.
POPULATION.
357
of a moral nature, and far more deep-seated. Parents, led by the very laudable
desire of leaving their childreu well provided for, take care that their number is
limited. Si)me philosophers may approve of this solicitude, but it clearly exhibits
much want of fuith in the future, and substantially weakens the strength of the
country, as compared with other countries. In poor departments more children
are born, as a rule, than in rich ones. A poor man may teach each of his children
a trade ; a rich one is expected to divide his capital amongst them when he dies.
Fig. 265.— Inxhease of P'PUlatiox in the Pki.vcipal Couxtkies op the World.
RxLsnA
uoo im Ui20 iBio 18W> isso uen uto uso
111 Xormandy this voluntary limitation of families is carried to the greatest length ;
in the department of Euro one-eighth of the inhabitants lead a life of celibacy, and
there are few families with more than two children. Need we wonder that the
population decreases ?
Frenchmen are the most cedentury of Europeans. The "trappers" and'
" voyageurs " of Canada prove that they are quite able to accommodate them-
selves to the rough life of a colony ; but, for all that, they prefer to remain
at home. Even in Algeria, which lies within easy reach, but few Frenchmen
358
FRA.NCE.
are met with as voluntary settlers.* In fact, the ri umber of foreigners who
annually immigrate into France far exceeds that of Frenchmen who leave the
country.
Migration is going on actively within the limits of France. The rural popula-
tion is steadily moving into the large towns. In 1830 three- fourths of the inha-
Fi(t. 266. — Density of the Population in Francb (1872).
o\ff1hm\i
„ belw^^n. *iv««i^«, .x^ui *J[y to-u S-f J'lU^
, t5y t4r 3SS t<y tz^.fy M
hitants lived in small parishes ; nowadays hardly two-thirds do so. The great
manufacturing towns increase more and more, whilst the small villages are being
• From 1865 to 1874 only 32,500 Frenchmen emigrated; in 1874,4,253. The total numfcer of natives
of France in the United States is 116,040 (1870) ; in Australia, 2,400 (1875) ; in .\1geiia, 129.600 (1872).
In 1851379,300 foreigners were enumerated in Franco; in 1876 801,700. including 374,500 Belgians,
165,000 Italians, 66,500 Germans, 62,500 Spaniards, 50,000 Swiss, and 30,000 English.
AGEICULTUEE.
359
deserted. In seven departments the town population already exceeded that of the
rural, and the time is not distant when the majority of Frenchmen will live in
cities*
Agriculture.
The rural population diminishes, but the productions of the soil increase, for the
division of labour, agricultural machinery, and better education have proved
potent factors. The quantity of cereals produced has doubled within the last
Fig. 267.— Chop of Wheat in Fuance (1874).
0* M of Paris
c(;^-'j
. '■€
^
Kj^'^'A,
OV,€^^.
Ov^r^ loaaev Less tAa/t'JoaatM' AMtM
9i'€£' Sonffoo /^(ifft- Ofer- i/^ot^o Ot^ej^ leoMO
■■ i^ W^
fifty years, though the area under cultivation is but little more than it used to be.
Crops are far heavier than formerly, and a poor harvest would have been looked
upon as a most abundant one in the beginning of the century. In bad years
France imports corn from the East, from Algeria, and from America.! The
• Population of Paris according to birthplaces (1872) :— 642,718 Parisians; 1013,865 provincial'
Frenchmen ; 177,208 foreigners.
t Cereal t-rops in 181.5, 5.5,500 000 quarlers, valued at £104,000,000; in 1872, 94,950,000 quarters,
valued ut £204,2.'iO 000, iTicliiiiing the straw; in 1876, 80,562,400 quarters. In 1875 cereals were grown
on 36,761,000 acres (wheat on 17,166,000 acres, oats 7,878,000, &c.). Average consumption of wheat per
head, 4-1 busheU in 1816, 5 8 bushels in 1872.
860
FRANCE.
nortt produces more wheat than the centre or the south, the hitter possessing
great advantages for raising other crops. France, owing to its central position,
has a greater variety of agricultural productions than any other country in Europe.
Corsica and eleven Mediterranean departments produce the best olive oil in the
world.* There, and elsewhere in the south, the mulberry flourishes, and seri-
culture, in spite of the ravages of disease, still forms a source of wealth. But far
Fi"-. 268. — The Produce of the Vineyards of Feavce.
0* BLaTParis
JV BAM-
Produce over 9D gallons tn an arrt .'—I. II*^muIt. 2. Charente-Inft^rieure.
Produce over 45 gaUntis to an acre ;— 3. Charente. 4. Aude. 5 Gironde.
ProdiicemtT9gaUoiistoannere:—6.'R'\ine. 7. Yonne. 8. Ijoire-Inforienre. 9. Pyreni'es-Orientales. 10. Tnde-
et-Ix)ire. II. Loir-et-Cher. 12. Lot-et-Garonne. 13. Saone et-Loiie. 14. Aube. 1,">. Meiirthe. 16. Viir.
17. Cote-d'Or. 18. Loiret. 19. Viemie. 20. Haute-Marne, 21. Gers. 22. Haute Saone. 23. irauto-Oaronne!
24. Jura. 25. Puy-de-Dome. 2fi. Maine-et-Loire. 27. Oard. 28. Vendee. 20. Dordogne. 30. Tarn. 31. Ain.
32. Meuse. 33. Tani-et-Garonne. 34. Marne. 35. Seine. 86. Seine-et-Mame. 37. Lot. 38. Cher.
39 Donbs.
Produce 1 to 9 gallons to an acre: — 10. Isi-re. 41. Loire 42. Nio\Te. 43. Deux-Sevres. 44. Seine-et-Oise.
45. Allier. 46. Aieyron. 47. Corrfze. 4.S. Bouclies-du-Ehone. 49. Savoie. 50. Haute- Vienne. 61. Vospes.
52. Haute-Savoie. 53. Ijandcs. 54. Ardeche. 55. Drome. 66. Hautes-ryri'nees. 57. Ai.sne. 58. Aric'pe.
59. Morhihnn. 00. Sartlie. fil. AI])ps-Maritime8. G2. Haute-Txiire. 63. Ba.sse8-Pyrcn.fes. 64. HauteB-Alpes.
66. Vauoluse. 66. Basses-Alpes. 67. Lozere. 68. Eure-et-Loirc.
more important than either of these are the vineyards. The vine can be
cultivated almost everywhere, and the product of Champ;igne, in the north, is
* rrodiiction of olive oil (1872), 275,000 000 srftllons, vuliicd ut iT),080,000 ; of cocoons, 14,.500,000 lbs.
in 1760; 79,000,000 lbs. in 18o3; 21,761,000 lbs. in 1S72.
AGRICULTURE. 861
highly esteemed throughout the world ; but it is the south which produces most
wine. The vineyard.^ cover 4,986,000 acres ; and in 1875 (the most productive
year of the century) no less than 1,840,000,000 gallons of wine were made, of an
estimated value of £120,000,000. No other country of Europe can compare with
France as regards the variety and quality of her wines and brandies. Nearly all
the wine made is consumed in the country, for the exports do not ordinarily exceed
88,000,000 gallons. The ravages of the phylloxera threaten to destroy this impor-
tant branch of agriculture, but the peasants, in their struggle against adversity,
which calk forth their latent energy and compels them to seek out new paths,
must morally be the gainers.
All productions of the temperate 2one meet with a congenial soil in Fi-ance.
Potatoes are grown to a larger extent than anywhere else in Europe. Oil plants
are widely cultivated, especially in the north, where flax and hemp also are
ordinary crops. Beet-root is cultivated around the sugar refineries in the north.
Every town and village has its orchards and market gardens. But far more
important than all these crops are the grasses, herbs, and other plants grown as
fodder for animals.
The increased facilities for transport have exercised a most beneficial influence
upon the breeding of cattle. Every department now breeds the animals best
adapted to its soil and climate. The northern and north-western departments are
most noted for their horses. The mountainous districts of the south excel in mules
and asses, but Poitou surpasses even these. Horned cattle are most numerous in
the grassy departments adjoining the Atlantic, and in the hilly pastures of the
Pyrenees, Limousin, the Jura, and the Vosges. Sheep, flourishing best in a drier
climate, abound in the Eastern Pyrenees, the Cevennes, on the central plateau, in
the plains of Berry, around Orleans, in Champagne, Eastern Picardy, and in the
Landes. The goat feels more at home on the scarped heights bounding the Rhone
valley. The pig is met with everywhere. Poultry is being kept more generally
than formerly, and in Brittany and elsewhere the beehive is made to contribute
towards the wealth of the peasant. The chase of wild animals can scarcely be
said to pay, and the birds are disappearing fast ; yet the number of wolves still
at large is estimated at 2,000 !*
The fisheries of France are of great importance, and the " cultivation " of
oyster and mussel beds is annually increasing.t France, upon the whole, occupies
a respectable position as regards the breeding of animals, although some of the
neighbouring countries may occasionally excel it. The dairy and other farm
produce annually exported is the best proof of this.
It has been said that the peasants are the real masters of France, and this is
certainly true of the numerous small proprietors, who cultivate the land whicli
formerly belonged to the nobles, and keep the cities alive by supplying them with
• In IR72 thrrc vern 2 SR2,8oO hon>es. 299,150 mules, 450 600 nsws, 11,284,400 head of rattle,
24.707,400 sheep, 5,177,500 pigs, 1,701,700 goats, 58,280,000 fowls. In 1866 there were 3,045,000 bee-
hires.
t The fisheries in 18*4 employed 20,800 boats and vesspls of 154,000 tons, and 780,000 fishermen. The
yield in 1876 was estimated at £3,23R,000.
62
S62
FEANCE.
bread, meat, and wine. In politics their influence is equally marked ; and if they do
not make revolutions, they sometimes prevent them.
This influence is due solely to their being the owners of the land. There are
nearly eight millions of landed proprietors in France, and five millions amongst them
hold estates of suflicient extent to enable them to live in comfort. On the other
hand, nearly four millions live in poverty, and their " estates," when sold, do not
Fi>. 269. — Natural Pastuke-lands and Meadows (1862).
O-llLofPsrii »•
0?|JlofCr,
(hier' SO. "M
tS-t0p<>/,
fo — 'S^.^
J^/ff/f.%
Area of pistures, 12,415,000 acres ; of meadows, 6,727,884 acres.
cover the costs of transfer. In some parts of France large estates are increasing,
and most of the land is cultivated by farmers. Elsewhere the subdivision of the soil
18 progressing at an increasing rate. Upon the whole, however, the number of
proprietors is becoming larger from year to year. Wealth}- peasants certainly
endeavour to increase their estate.s, but they understand very well that land only
rep:iys their outlay if they are able to cultivate it themselves. "Agricultural
AGRICULTURE.
868
distress" really exists only amongst the large proprietors, who are called upon to
pay much higher wages now than formerly.*
Small properties have their advantages, no doubt ; but they do not admit of
agricultural operations on a large scale, and the soil produces less. In France the
subdivision of the land is excessive. The number of "plots," or patches, is no less
than 127,000,000, divided amongst 3,025,877 cultivators, of whom each owns on
Fig. 270. — AvEKAOE Value ok Agricultural Produce, that of the Vineyards excepted.
Accoidin^ to Ijtle^w.
O'lM.of FtTT*
Char HeDenac- franv each/ Hectare/ Uv idSz.
CZl
£4 and over.
eof.
£2 8b.
£1 12i.
•fi^f. Ltss thajvxo franco
16b. Less than 168.
an average about 36 acres. No less than 2,435,401 own less than 25 acres each,
and only 154,167 more than a hundred. This multitude of small fiild-s necessitates
a multitude of roads, and agricultural machinery, such as the steam plough, cannot
be employed with advantage. The yield is less than in countries where large
estates are the rule : and whilst in England an acre yields from 20 to 28 bushels of
Agriculturiil wages fur men Jaily in 1700, 5d. ; in 1811, 9d. ; in 18o2, U. 4d. ; in 1872, Is. Od.
364 FRANCE.
wheat, it only yields from 14 to 17 in France. If French agriculture is to attain
a position comparable with French industry, the land must be cultivated on sounder
principles than now. The peasant propiietors must either combine for the common
cultivation of their plots, or they will have to be ousted by the State or by
companies of capitalists. Drainage and irrigation works on a large scale cannot
be carried out under existing conditions. All that has been done hitherto in this
direction in France is patchwork.
But tradition is strong among the peasantry. The model farms, thirty-three in
number, appear to he appreciated, but the three agricultural schools at Grignon.
Montpellier, and Grand Jouan are but indiiierently attended. More than half
the area of France is cultivated in an antiquated manner. There are vast stretches
of heaths in the Pyrenees, in Gascony, and Brittany, which might easily be con-
verted into arable land. The swamps on the Atlantic coast have only in part
been converted into meadow land; the Caraargue and the littoral region of
Lftnguedoc still breed fevers ; the rivers almost annually inundate their banks ;
and in the Alps, the Cevennes, and the Pyrenees the country is becoming unin-
habitable on account of the forests no longer preventing the vegetable soil being
carried away by the torrents. Nearly 20,000,000 acres are covered with forests,
but most of the timber used is imported from abroad, the country annually paying
four millions for that commodity. It is supposed that there are 2,718,000 acres of
land which might advantageously be planted with forests, but even supposing this
work to be taken in hand with vigour, a century must pass before its full benefit
will be felt.
Mining.
The mineral wealth of France is perhaps less than that of any other country of
equal extent. Neither platina, gold, silver, nor mercury is found, or at most in
very small quantities. The mines of zinc, nickel, tin, lead, antimony, manga-
nese, and copper yield but little, and France consumes ten times as much as
they yield. The iron ores are of importance, but unfortunately they arefound,
as a rule, far away from coal, which is indispensable for their conversion into
iron.
The coal raised does not cover the home demand. The coal basins, though
inferior to those of England or Belgium, are sufficiently extensive, but being for
the most part situated in the interior of the country, the cost of transporting the
coal to the centres of industry is very heavy.
In building materials of every kind France is exceedingly rich, and most of the
towns are built of solid stone. Clays suited to the manufacture of earthenware
abound. Beds of phosphate were discovered in 1857 in Southern France and in
the North, where they cover 494,000 acres. Salt-pans abound on the coast ;
saline and all kinds of mineral springs in the interior of the country, more
especially in the Pyrenees, in Auvergne, in the xVlps, and in the Vosges.*
• Mineral productions nboiit 1876 :— Pig iron, 1,449,538 tons; iron burs, 733,272 tons ; steel, 254,191
tons; coal, 7,047,701 tuns; copper, zinc, lead, lin, A'C, value £380,000 ; salt, 754,506 tons.
MANUFACTURES.
865
Makufactures.
The industrial progress made by France has been enormous. In articles requiring
taste and deft workmanship that country preserves its traditional pre-eminence,
and in many other objects, including machinery, it has become a rival of England.
In 1820 there were only 20 steam-engines in all France ; in 1869, 32,827, includ-
ing locomotives and ships' engines. These engines do the work of 25,000,000
labourers. Nearly 40,000 mill streams set in motion the wheels of 80,000 mills, and
recently even the tides have been pressed into the service of man as a motive power.
The great centres of industry are Paris, Lyons, and Lille, but not a depart-
ment exists now where the steam-engine is not at work. AV^herever coal mines
are opened factories spring up overnight. The beds of iron ore, of clay, or
kaolin, likewise attract manufacturers, and so do the commercial towns on the sea
coast. The mountaineers, whom long winters debar from their usual occupations.
Pig. 271. — The Ln-crease op Steam Engines since 1.S40
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engage in various industries. The women of Velay, Auvergne, and the Vosges
are famous as luce-makers ; in the Jura the men carve in wood or make watches.
The textile industries alone occupy more than 2,000,000 hands. The silks of
France are the best in the world ; in woollen stuffs, cloth, carpets, and flannels it
successfully competes with England ; whilst in cottons it excels in quality, if not
in quantity. The lace manufactured in France probably equuls in value that
produced in any other country ; and the manufacture of linens and other textile
fabrics is likewise of considerable importance. M. Block estimates the textile
fabrics and the clothing produced annually at the enormous sum of £192,100,000.*
In all other branches of manufacture France holds a distinguished' position.
IXs iron industry is far inferior to that of England, but enormous progress has
been made. Up to 1830 nearly all machinery was imported from EiigUmd, whilst
• Silks. 200,000 hands, £.36.000.000 ; woollen stuflg. 1 80.000 handn. £18,000,000 ; cottons, 2.i0,000 hands,
5,200,000 HiiinJl s, £26,000,000; linen, &■ ., l.JO.OOO hiindK, £12,000,000 ; mixed stuffs, 100,000 hiiuds,
£10,000,000; lace, 240,000 hund»,£ 1,800,000; eLthing, 1,200,000 hands, £56,000,000.
366 TEANCE.
French machinery now finds its way into every quarter of the world.* The
manufacture of beet-root sugar, which originated during the First Empire, now
employs 73,000 workmen, who produce more than 400,000 tons of sugar annually,
as compared with 7,000 tons in 1827. The great chemical works are another
creation of our century, and annually increase in importance. Chemistry, indeed,
has exercised a most potent influence upon every kind of industry, unfortunately
not in every instance for the best.
In every branth of art industry, such as the manufacture of furniture,
jewellery, china and glass, bronzes, and engravings, France still maintains her
superiority, though Germany excels in china and glass, and England, where many
of the workmen arc French, in ceramic productions.
M. Maurice Block in 1875 estimated the productions of French industry at
£511,680,000, not including ships or heavy machinerJ^t The factories and
small workshops contribute almost equally toward this vast sum. These latter, how-
ever, are fast disappearing, not being able to sustain the struggle against powerful
capitalists. This concentration of the working population in huge establishments
is the greatest social feature of our century, and future generations will have to
deal with it. J
Commerce.
The progress of commerce has kept pace with that of ngriculture and industry ;
and three towns, viz. Paris, Marseilles, and Havre, do a greater trade now with
foreign countries than the entire nation did fifty years ago.
A network of roads covers nearly the whole of France, but the mountain
districts are as yet ill provided with them. Only one road leads across the
Pyrenees ; two, those of Mont Cenis and Mont Genevre, across the Alps. The
high-roads of France (1872) have a length of 102,870 milts; the provincial
carriage roads of 156,030 miles ; and 138,900 miles more are being constructed.
The rivers and rivulets of France are spanned by 2,000 large, and more than
200,000 small bridges.
The railway age only began in France in 1832, when a line connecting Lyons
with St. ;Etienne was opened for traffic. Railway building up to 1842 made but
little progress, and even now much remains to be done before the system of rail-
ways can be called complete. Lines radiate from Paris in all directions, but many
provincial towns are still deprived of this means of locomotion. In 1878 France
* Iron industry (1875) :— Castings, 14,157,000 tons; fashioned iron, 7,554,000 tons; steel, 2,516,000
tons.
t Texlile fabrics and clothing, £188.800.000 ; articles of food, £117,180,000 ; bnildinss, £67,200,000 ;
metils, £34.600,000 ; chemical products, including soap and candles, £30,000,000 ; fiiriiitur.>, £22,000,000 ;
leather and skins, £16,000,000; jewellery, £8,000,000; earthenware and gla^s, £6,100,000; paper and
instruments, £6,000,000; various, £12.000,000.
i Distribution of French workmen in 1874 according to M. Ducarre: —
Mines 14,117 masters 164,819 workmen )
Factories 183,227 , 1,420,006 „ ( Including families,
Small Workshops . . . 596.7:6 1,060,114 „ i 8,400,000 persons.
Total . . 794, i 20 ., 2. 644,900
o
o
a
COMMEECE.
867
had 13,072 miles of railway, constructed, for the most part, in a very substantial
and conscientious manner. On an average each mile cost £28,800. Plans for the
construction of additional lines, and more especially of great trunk lines, affording
the most direct, and consequently the cheapest, communications for the transit of
passengers and merchandise, are now under consideration. One of these projected
lines is to connect Calais with Dijon, without passing through Paris. Another,
piercing the Alps at the Simplon Pass, will place Paris in direct communication
with Upper Italy.
The railways of France are the property of six great companies, and this
Fig. 272.— The Railways of Franc*.
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centralization is by no means an unmixed good. Rival
arbitrary rates charged for the conveyance of merchandise.
Great Southern Line, for instance, are so exorbitant that it
goods from Paris to the East by way of Liverpool than
General interests thus suffer to promote private ends.
The progress of railways has withdrawn public attention
afford a much cheaper means of conveyance. No new canals
since 1820, and those existing are for the most part of local
lines are opposed, and
The charges of the
is cheaper to forward
by way of Marseilles.
from the canals, which
have been constructed
importance only. In
868
FEAJ^CE.
their construction no general guiding principle has been adhered to, and tranship-
ment is frequently required. Of late years, however, the importance of canals and
other navigable highways has attracted public attention, and M. Krantz has
suggested a scheme, the execution of which would meet every reasonable wane at
an expenditure of £33,200,000, and would likewise provide for the " regulation "
of some of the most erratic rivers. The existing canals have a length of 3,0-51
miles, and cost £32,740,000 ; the length of the navigable rivers is only 3,541
Fig. 273.— The Canals and Navigable Rivers op France.
i^^
»v.' m ^.^ Xatfi^ai'U. Rivers
miles ; and 1,564,666,000 tons of merchandise were conveyed by water in 1872,
the conveyance of a ton per canal costing 0 8d. a mile, including interest upon the
capital expended.
France is poor in good natural harbours, and it is therefore all the more
necessary that artificial ones should be created. This subject, too, has recently
received attention, and one great artificial port, verj' much needed, is being con-
structed at Boulogne.
COMMEECE.
France is admirably situated for commerce, and though poor in ports, two-thirds
of its foreign trade are carried on by sea. Looking at the Mediterranean and
Atlantic seaboards of France, and at the excellent high-roads connecting both,
one might fancy that France held the foremost place amongst maritime nations.
But P'rance does not. The commercial marines of England, the United States,
Norway, Italy, and Germany surpass hers ; and since 18G0, when the differential
Fig. 274. BlAOKAM EXHIBITING THE CoMMERCHI, MaIITVPS OF THE Woni.T).
jj9».4
z si
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Prance
Spain
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Greece
Austria
I
,..,„,..,
The ibaded portioD of each column indicates the tonnage of sailing veaeeU ; the blank
space that of steamen.
duties formerly levied ujjon foreign vessels were abolished, there has been no
progress. About one-fifth of the tonnage is the property of mail-ship companies
in receipt of Government subventions.* In 1875 71 per cent, of the home produc-
tions of France was exported in foreign vessels, and this proportion appears to be
increasing from year to year. The French vessels are, as a rule, much older than
• Shippini? of France (1876), 14,861 sailing vessel* of 793,000 tons, and 646 steamers of 21fi,460 tons.
Total, 1,008,460 tons.
870
FEANCE.
those of other nations, and are consequently more liable to accidents. Those lost
at sea or broken up are only partially replaced, and the marine necessarily de-
creases, always excepting the vessels of the State-paid mail companies. It is absurd
to make the supposed aversion of the French to a seafaring life accountable for
this decadence. In a former age the mariners of Gascony and Provence, of
Brittany and Normandy, have given proof of their aptitude as seamen. This
Pig. 275. — DiAOKAM EXUIBITIXO THE NAVIGATION OF VESSELS AT EACH PoRT.
!0°of Paris.
yW
M E DITERRANEAN
2°i:0 E.of&r
-J
-3.0^0 <rao Tt?ri^' of
decadence must be explained on economical reasons. The French, unlike the
Norwegians, are not confined to a narrow seaboard, but a large and fertile country
holds out to them many resources. They are not driven to seek a living on the
sea, and prefer to stay at home, allowing the English and other nations to act as
their ocean carriers.
But though the French marine is decreasing, French commerce has vastly in-
creased since 1830, and even the most serious events have only momentarily checked
>
<
SOCIAL STATISTICS.
371
this progress. Tmraid lately after the conclusion of the late war French commerce
recovered ; and though postage and telegrams are dearer in France than in some
neighbouring countries, the number of letters and of telegrams is ever increasing.*
In looking at the articles exported and imported, the great superiority of France
as a manufacturing country will be perceived. The imports consist to a very large
extent of raw silk, cotton, and wool ; of hides and skins ; of unrefined sugar ; of
oil seeds and rags. The exports consist mainly of silk, cotton, and woollen stuffs ;
leather ; boots and gloves ; furniture ; soap and oil ; refined sugar ; and paper.
France likewise imports cattle to feed its population, and coal for its manufactories.
It exports wines, vegetables, cereals, coals, cheese, butter, eggs, and poultry, t
The foreign commerce of France is chiefly with Great Britain, Belgium, Ger-
many, and Italy. The trade with French colonies, of which France enjoys a mono-
poly, amounts to very little if compared with the transactions with the above-named
countries, as is clearly seen from the following statement (in pounds sterling) : —
1877.
Importa.
Exports.
26,000,000
41,320,000
16,160,000
17,840,000
15,560,000
. 17,420,000
16,600,000
8,640,000
4,400,000
11,160,000
10,600,000
9,200,000
7,520,000
3,760,000
4,4110,000
6,200,000
4,920,000
5,960,000
6,040,000
1,500,000
1873.
Import*. Exports.
EnglHiid 30,356,000 47,440,000
Belgium 21,556,000 20,192,000
Germany .... li,612,000 20,900.000
Italy 16 428,000 14,128.000
Switzerlaiiil .... 13,736,000 16,400,000
United Stilts . . . 8,568,000 16,332.000
Turkey 9,356,000 4,956,000
Spain 7,168.000 7,108,000
Alffpria 6.024,000 6,424,000
Russia 7,628,000 1,840,000
Next to these leading countries rank the Rio de la Plata, Brazil, the East Indies,
and China.
Social Statistics.
We do not exaggerate when we estimate the aggregate income of all Frenchmen at
£1,000,000,000 a year, being equal to the interest, at the rate of 5 per cent., upon
a capital of £20,000,000,000. This national income, there can be no doubt, is
steadily increasing, say at the rate of 2 or 3 per cent, a year, or far more rapidly
than the population. If it did not, the country could not defray the ever-increasing
expenses of Government, build new factories, and even invest capital abroad. The
progress of wealth is most marked in some of the rural districts, where fortunes'
• General trade of France, including transit (but not coin or bullion) in pounds sterling: —
Import*.
Exports.
Importa
Exports.
1830 .
, 26,620,000
22,520,000
1860 .
. 106,280,000
125,880,000
1840 .
. 42,080,000
4i>,4 40,000
1873 .
, 183,040,000
192,880,000
1850 .
. 46,960,000
61,240,000
1876 .
. 196,000,000
180,000,000
Imports for home consumption (1876;, £158 006,960 ; exports of home produce, £142,795,640.
Letters seni th^,u^h the Post Offito in 1851. 170,0 iO,000 ; in 1862, 283,000,000 ; in 1876, 367,443,837 ;
periodical and bo.k piicketi do., 34,000,000, 2112,000,000, and 370,005,9.34.
Telegraphs (1877), 32,320 miles. Telegrams furwaidcd :— 463,000 in 1857; 6,223,000 in 1872;
11,412,161 in 1876.
t Jmporln (1876):— Articles of food, £38,372,280; raw materials, £92,400,480; manufactures,
£19,051,000; other articles, £7,383,200.
Exporlt (1876) :— Manufactuies, £77,279,160; articles of food and raw produce, £57,948,200; other
aHicles, £7,668,280.
872
FEANCE.
have more than doubled within the last fifty years. The average income of each
family is £120, or £28 a head, and the number of small capitalists {rentiers)
in the enjoyment of this average income is very large. On the other hand, there
are men of vast revenues, as well as paupers dependent upon public charity for
their subsistence.*
Our statisticians take notice of every contravention of the moral or police laws,
while good deeds and noble actions find no place in their records. The number of
Fig. 276.— PlAGRAM EXHIBITINO THE EDUCATIONAL CONDITION OP FhANCE.
3»- Si%
So -^o 70 - Se So — ^t
Ptr centage of Men ahU to read.
illegitimate births or of criminals may enable us to judge to some extent of the
moral and social condition of a nation ; but our inquiries must have a wider range
it' we would know what is really moving the mind of the masses, and preparing
the events of the future.f •
• Paupers supported by the parishes, 1829, l,329,fi.59 ; 1853—61, 1.145,000.
t Crimes inveatifrated by the magistrates (1874), 365,577 ; offences against police regulations,
431,069. Average prison population, exclusive of political prisoners, 52,984; illegiliuiute births, 76,678
out uf a total of 929,508 ; inlants deserted, 9,470 j suicides, 6,617.
SOCIAL STATISTICS. 873
Officially there are in France 60,000 Jews (most of them of foreign hirth),
600,000 Protestants, and 35,500,000 Roman Catholics. The Protestants, owing to
mixed marriages and other causes, appear to be diminishing. As to the so-called
Roman Catholics of the official returns, very many of them are either perfectly
indifferent as to Church questions, or openly hostile to the Church which claims
them. That Church, however, is a great power in France. The clergy are well
organized, and convents are more numerous thnn before the great Revolution : in
1878 no less than 30,000 monks and 170,000 nuns were engaged . in educational,
charitable, or contemplative work, and the property of the monasteries and
convents was estimated at £20,000,000.
In matters of education France lags far behind some of the neighbouring states.
Officially the processors of the university rank after Government clerks, though
public opinion has learnt to appreciate their services. Many parishes are still
without schools. Teachers are scarce, for the emoluments offered are small. About
one-third of the adults are unable to read. The education of the girls more
especially is very much neglected.*
Still, progress is being made. The advantages of education are becoming more
and more appreciated ; periodicals increase in number and circulation ; books find
ready purchasers ; public libraries are founded in all parts of the country ; and
scientific societies multiply. There appears to have grown up a vague idea since
the termination of the war, that a nation can be strong only if the men composing
it are thinkers. Superior education improves, and the youth of France look full
of hope and confidence towards the future.
• Ednralional Bt«tistic8 for 1872: — 70,179 plementary schools, with 4,722,000 pupils enrol 1 eil ;
324 lycenms and collcgen, with 69,500 pupils; 657 superior lay schools, with 43,000 pupils; and 278
clerical schools, with 34,000 pujiils. In 18C6 25-80 per cent, of the married men and 41-00 per cent, of
the wires were unable to sign their names, and only 66-63 per cent, of the adult population (over twenty
years of age) were able to read and write.
i
CHAPTER XV.
GOVERNMENT AND ADMINISTRATION.
Local and Central Government.
N France the commune, or parish, does not hold a rank equally
important as in some of the neighbouring countries. In countries
frequently ravaged by war, as Italy and Spain, the inhabitants
sought strength in union and under the protection of walled towns.
In France and Germany the peasants settled down close to the feudal
castles ; in Gascony, Brittany, and some other parts of France, where the clang
of arms was heard but rarely, the peasants scattered themselves over the country,
each living under his own oak or chestnut tree.
As a fact, the rural communes are either very small, or their population, where
more numerous, is scattered over a wide area. The average number of inhabitants
of each of the 36,056 French communes is 1,0'20, but there exist over 600 having
a population of less than 100 souls.
The communes are grouped together into 2,863 cantons, and these into 362
arrondissements and 87 departments. The formation of these latter was proposed
in 1786 by Robert de Hesseln, a map-maker, and adopted a few years afterwards
by the National Assembly, which intended thereby to break with ancient traditions
and to crush provincialism. But the inhabitants of the country, in spite of the
arbitrary boundaries of the old provinces of feudal times, or of the departments of
our own age, have not yet lost sight of the great natural divisions of the country,
which coincide in a remarkable manner with the old pagi minores of the Gallo-
Romans.
The existing political divisions are a creation of officials, and have no root in
the public sentiment. They have been maintained because they enable the Central
Government to multiply its direct representatives throughout the country to an
extent not required by the interests of the public. The power which the State
thus arrogates to itself the provincial populations are deprived of, and the adminis-
trative machinery of the smallest village is set in motion from the capital. France
would long ago have been converted into a huge barrack for Government func-
tionaries if there were not causes at work which counteract the influence of the
bureaucracy.
LOCAL AND CENTRAL GOVERNMENT, 875
France, by a law of February 25th, 1875, has been constituted a republic, but
most of the institutions of the country are monarchical by origin and in spirit.
The legislative power is vested in an Assembly of two Houses, or Chambers — the
Chamber of Deputies and the Senate ; and the executive in a President. The
Chamber of Deputies is elected by universal suffrage, each arrondissement
being represented by one deputy, or by more if its population exceeds 100,000
souls. The Senate is composed of 300 members, of whom one-fourth are
elected by the Senate itself for life, and three-fourths are elected for nine
years by " electoral colleges," formed in every department and colony. These
colleges include the deputies of the arrondissements, the councillors of the
departments and arrondissements, and representatives of the communes. One-
third of the senators retire every three years. The President is elected by
the Senate and the Chamber, sitting conjointly, for seven years. Senators and
deputies are puid £3(30 a year ; the President £24,000, in addition to certain
allowances.
The President promulgates the laws voted by the Chamber, disposes of the
armed forces of the country, appoints all functionaries and officers, and negotiates
treaties ; but he cannot declare war without consulting the Chambers. He
convokes or adjourns the Chamber of Deputies, and the Senate consenting, he can
even dissolve it. He appoints his ministers, who alone are responsible to the
Chambers. Financial laws must first be presented to and voted by the Chamber
of Deputies.
A Council of State, presided over by the Minister of Justice, and consist-
ing of 37 councillors and 24 masters of requests, nominated by the President,
and of 30 auditors nominated concurrently, advises on laws referred to it by
the Chambers or by the ministers, and on all matters submitted by the Presi-
dent
Each department has its General Council, the members of which (gene-
rally one for each canton) are elected by universal sufPrage for six years.
These councils meet annually to discuss the department budget, and to act
as advisers of the Prefect. Politics are excluded from their discussions.
The Prefect is appointed by the President on presentation by the Minister of
the Interior. His powers are extensive, and, with the assent of the Central
Government, he can annul the resolutions of the General Council over which
he presides.
Each arrondissement has its Sub-prefect and a Council elected by universal
sufiFrage. The cantons merely constitute judicial districts.
Each commune has a Municipal Council of from 12 to 80 members, elected
by universal suffrage. In all matters of importance the decisions of these councils
require to be approved by the I'refect before they are carried out. The Mayor
(niairc) is appointed by Government, but must be a member of the Municipal '
Council. He is the representative of the State as well as of the commune, and
finds it sometimes difficult to reconcile their conflicting interests. His office is
honorary. In large towns he is assisted by deputy mayors.
876 FEANCE.
Judicial Authorities.
Each canton has its Justice of the Peace, who decides in civil cases up to the
value of £i, and in police cases. A court of the first instance exists in each
department, and is presided over by a Judge and at least two Assistant Judges.
Its jurisdiction is final in civil cases up to £60, and cases of misdemeanour are
decided by it. The Commercial Tribunals, with Judges elected by the leading
merchants, exercise a similar jurisdiction in commercial matters, but they exist
only in the principal towns. There are 26 Courts of Appeal, to which civil cases
and misdemeanours of a more serious character are referred from the inferior
courts. Criminal cases are decided in Courts of Assize, one for each department,
with the aid of a jury. The Supreme Court of Justice (Cour de Cassation), for
civil as well as for criminal cases, has its seat in Paris.
Society, or rather the State, is represented in all these courts by Procureurs, or
Advocates General, whose duty it is to watch over the strict execution of the laws.
All magistrates, judges, and others employed in the courts of justice are absolutely
dependent upon the Minister of Justice.
Disputes between Government and private individuals are decided by the
Council of the Prefect, from which an appeal may be carried to the Council of
State. Disputes between masters and workmen are decided by a council of wise
men (prud'/iommes), the members of which are nominally elected by the interested
parties. Courts of Accounts have jurisdiction over persons engaged in the col-
lection or expenditure of public moneys.
Military courts, though they generally confine themselves to ofiences com-
mitted by soldiers, are all-powerful whenever a state of siege has been declared.
Permanent naval courts are located at the five naval head-quarters.
There exist, moreover, certain disciplinary councils, whose operation is limited
to a few corporations, such as those of barristers, notaries, or advocates.
The convict establishments in France having been suppressed, convicts are
now sent to New Caledonia, or to Guiana if they are men of colour or Arabs.
Each arrondissement has its house of detention ; but criminals condemned to more
than a year's imprisonment are sent to one of the twenty- four central prisons.
There exist also about sixty reformatories, maintained partly by private societies.
Political offenders are transported, imprisoned in a fortress, or banished the
country.
ECCI.ESIASTICAI, Al'THOUITlES.
The State officially recognises the Roman Catholic Church, the Lutheran and
Reformed Protestants, and the Jews, and contributes largely towards the payment
of the ministers of these religions, who are, moreover, exempted from military
service.
Catholic France is governed by seventeen archbishops and sixty-nine suflfragan
bishops. Cardinals, archbishops, and bishops are appointed by the Pope and the
EDUCATION.— ARMY AND NAVY. 877
French Government conjointly, the latter, moreover, reserving itself the right to
repel all encroachments upon its temporal authority. Vicars General, appointed
in the same manner as the prelates, assist these latter in their functions. The
cathedral chapters are appointed hy the prelates, whose nominations must be sub-
mitted to Government for approval. The inferior clergy include parish priests
(cures), officiating ministers {desserraiits), and vicars.
The Lutherans are governed by a general consistory, having its seat at Paris.
The Eeformed Protestants, or Calvinists, have placed themselves under about a
hundred independent consistories, but occasionally meet in synods. The Pro-
testant clergy are presented by the congregations and appointed by Government.
The Jews are governed by a consistory of eight lay members, presided over by
a Grand Rabbi appointed for life, and having its seat at Paris.
Education.
A Superior Council of Education assists the Minister of Public Education in
his functions. France, for educational purposes, is divided into sixteen Academies,
each presided over by a rector.
Each commune of 500 inhabitants is bound to establish a boys' and a girls'
school, deficiencies in the receipts being made up by the department or the State.
A training school for elementary teachers exists in nearly every department.
Secondary education of a classical or industrial nature is provided by communal
colleges, lyceums, and voluntary schools, many under the direction of the clergy.
Pupils at lyceums pass examinations as bachelors of science or of letters.
Numerous establishments are engaged in supplying a superior education. A
training college at Paris trains masters for secondary schools. There are theo-
logical colleges, law and medical schools, science schools, a pharmaceutic college,
and numerous preparatory schools. A high school for the study of mathematics,
natural philosophy and chemistry, natural history and physiology, history and
philology, has been established at Paris ; and numerous institutions there, and
elsewhere throughout France, provide facilities for studying science.
Amongst special schools depending upon Government are those of oriental
languages, fine arts, music (Conservatoire), industrial arts, agriculture, mining,
veterinary science, forestry, engineering (Polytechnique), and several others.
Franco supports an art school at Rome and an archajological college at Athens.
The leading military schools are those of St. Cyr, of the staff, of engineers and
artillery, and of cavalry, a naval college at Brest, and a school of naval architects.
s
Army and Navy.
The army was reorganized by a decree dated July 27th, 1872. Liability to serve
in the army is now universal. The conscripts remain five years in the standing
army, four years in tlie reserve, and eleven years in the " territorial " army. But
out of 300,000 men who annually complete their twentieth year, hardly more than
63
378 FEANCB.
one-half are actually called upon to render military service, the remainder being
either physically unfit, or exempted as being employed in the public service,
engaged in education, &c. Of those actually embodied very few remain five years
with the colours. Many are discharged after six months' drill, others after a
year's service, on condition of their being able to read and write. Young men of
education are admitted to one year's voluntary service, and if they acquit them-
selves creditably they are, on their discharge, appointed officers of reserve. Men
of the standing army and the reserve cannot marry without leave.
The whole of the army, including that of Algeria, is formed into nineteen
territorial army corps. It includes 144 regiments of infantry (3 battalions
each), 30 battalions of Chasseurs; 4 regiments of Zouaves (4 battalions each), 3
regiments of Algerian Tirailleurs (of 4 battalions each) ; 1 foreign regiment (4
battalions), 3 battalions of African light infantry ; 77 regiments of cavalry, includ-
ing 4 of Chasseurs d'Afrique and 3 of Spahis, 38 regiments of field artillery (247
batteries), 20 battalions of Sappers, 2 regiments of Pontooneers, 57 companies of
army train, &c. The gendarmerie (27,132 men) forms a part of the army, as do
the Sapeurs-pompiers (firemen). The National Guard has been suppressed.
The efi'ective strength of the army, on a peace footing (1879), is 496,442 men,
with 124,279 horses : of this number 52,424 men are stationed in Algeria. Of the
165,674 recruits who are expected to enter the army in 1879, 62,000 will remain
with the colours for six months only. In addition to these recruits, there will be
6,810 one year's volunteers. On a war footing the array consists of an active
army of 1,150,000 ijien, and a territorial army of 580,000 men.
The navy is powerful, but its strength is comparatively much smaller than
what it was before the last war, for other nations have increased their armaments at
a much more rapid rate than France has done. The seafaring population of France
is liable to serve from the twentieth to the fiftieth year of age. The number of
these men is supposed to be 152,000, but in case of war 110,000 at most would be
available. The number actually in the service is 25,000, besides 16,000 marines,
and 33,000 workmen and non-combatants. The navy consists of 56 ironclads
(185,847 h. p., 461 guns), 264 screw steamers (55,812 h. p., 1,547 guns), 62 paddle
steamers (8,665 h. p., 154 guns), and 113 sailing vessels (672 guns). Total, 492
vessels (250,324 h. p., 2,834 guns). The most powerful of the French ironclads is
the Redoubtable, launched at Lorient in 1876. Its armour has a thickness of 9
inches; its armament consists of two 38-ton and four 24-ton guns, and its engines
are of 6,000 horse-power. The great naval arsenals are at Cherbourg, Brest,
Lorient, Rochefort, and Toulon,
Finance.
The French pay more taxes than any other people in the world ; for not only must
the expenses of a complicated administrative machinery be paid for, but interest
must be paid on debts resulting from wars. Including local and indirect taxes,
no less than £125,000,000 are raised every year. But the French are rich enough
to support this burden without much suffering. Only about a third of this sum
FINANCE.
879
is raised by direct taxes, the remainder being derived from customs dues, excise
duties, and other imposts hardly felt by the consumer. Tobacco alone, the manu-
facture of which is a Government monopoly, and is allowed to be grown only in
twenty departments, yields nearly £12,000,000 a year.
The annual budget is prepared by the ministers, and, before being discussed in
public, is examined by a commission of the Chamber of Deputies.
Fig. 277.— Monaco.
Government, with its tobacco factories, ship-yards, prisons (for the prisoners
are required to work), is the greatest manufacturer in France. It is likewise the
wealthiest landed proprietor, for no less than 2,451,000 acres of forest belong to it,
and it exercises a sort of supervision over 4,703,000 acres of forest land belonging
to the communes and public institutions.
The I'ublic Debt of France, in 1875, amounted to £937,584,280, distributed
380
FRANCE.
amongst no less than 4,380,933 holders. The city of Paris has a deht of
£93,600,000 ; the departments and other local bodies of £30,000,000 ; and the
total indebtedness of France, national and local, amounts thus to £1,001,184,280.
The annual revenue, which in 1830 — 48 did not exceed £48,855,040, rose to
£78,507,730 during the Second Empire (1852 — 69), and was estimated for 1877 at
£106,885,620. Of this large sum £41,630,6^0 was raised by direct taxes,
£24,824,760 by registration duties and stamps, £15,527,160 by direct taxes, and
£10,949,200 by customs. In the same year £48,057,133 were paid in interest
on the national debt and in annuities, £21,426,530 were expended upon the army.
Fig. 278.— DUGBAM EXHIBITING TUK COMPARATIVE AllEAS OF FnANCB AND OP HER CoLONIEB.
M^erv*
Bcalv ..!■ 16000.000
and £7,439,000 upon the navy and the colonies,
revenue exceeded £10,000,000.*
The cost of collecting the
Colonies.
There still exists within French territory a small " state," enjoying a feeble
sort of independence, viz. the rock-city of Monaco, between Nice and Mentone.
* In 1878 the local taxiition yielded £18,133,.500. This, added to the central revenue, gives a propor-
tifin per head of the population amoimtint; to about £3 10s., or more than in Enghind. Of the total
revenue of the commuiiea, £8,000.000 is contributed by Paris. w)iere every inhabitant pays £4 annually
in local taxes, the rest of France paying only about 08. per head. Lyons has a revenue of £417,900.
COLONIES.
881
This state, with its Court and Diplomats, however, appears to exist merely in
order to give shelter to the gambling-tables no longer permitted in Germany.
Andorra, too, maintains a gambling-hell on that slice of its territory which lies on
the French slope of the Pyrenees.
But though France suffers these feeble powers to retain small bits of land
within her natural frontiers, territories of large extent have been acquired in other
parts of the world. This colonial empire of France was of great extent in the
last century, when Canada, Louisiana, and vast tracts in India formed a part of it.
Fig. 279.— Thb Lamovaoes of France.
o\p£Cnmte
But the fate of war went against France, and, these colonies were lost. Amongst
the present colonies of France, Algeria is the most important. Including the
protected states of Cambodia, Tahiti, &c., the total area of the French colonies is
299,517 square miles, with a population of 6,533,954 souls. The colonies cannot
be said to prosper, and they add but little to the strength of the mother
country.
882
FRANCE.
The expansive force of France cannot, indeed, be measured by the extent of her
colonies. The true colonies of France are those countries where French ideas are
propagated, French books are read, and the French language is spoken. In
France itself the differences of dialect disappear by degrees; and the time is
approaching when even Basque, Flemish, and Low Breton will cease to be
spoken within its boundaries. Passing beyond these boundaries, we find that
French is the language of one-half of Belgium and of Eastern Switzerland ; of
Haiti ; of portions of Canada, New Brunswick, and the United States. French is
spoken, moreover, by the educated classes of every civilised country, more
especially in the south of Europe; and whatever conquests may be made by
English in transoceanic countries, the nations of the old world are not likely to
abandon French as the most ready medium for exchanging their ideas.
FRANCE AND COLONIES.
Area and Population op France.
Departments.
Ain ....
Aiane . . .
AUier . . .
AlpeB (Basses-)
Alpes (Hautes-)
Alpes-Maritimes
Ardeche . .
Ardennes . .
Ariege . . .
Aube . . .
Aude . . .
AvejTon . .
Baa Ehin . .
Bouches-du- ^
Khone )
Calvados . .
Cantal . . .
Charente . .
Charente- ^
Inferieure )
Cher . . .
Corrfeze . .
Corse . . .
Cote-d'Or . .
C6tes-du-Nord
Creuse . . .
Dordogne . .
Doubs . .
DrSme . . .
Eure . . .
Euro-et-Loir
Finistere . ,
Gard . . .
Garonne (Haute-
Gers . . .
Giroude . .
Area.
En^l. 8q.
Miles.
2,239
2,839
2,822
2,68.5
2,158
1,482
2,136
2,020
1,890
2,317
2,438
3,376
235
1,971
2,132
2,-il7
2,294
2,635
2,7S0
2,265
3,377
3,383
2.659
2,150
3,546
2,018
2,518
2,300
2,268
2,595
2,253
2,429
2,425
3,761
Com-
Inha- Arron-
bitants disse- Cantons. „^,.„„„ r<««;*«i
^ niunes. Capital.
^"'- No.
Population.
May, 1872. D;c. 31, 1876. to a Sq. ments.
MUe. No.
363,290 366,462 163 5 36 452
552,439 560,427 198 5 37 837
390,8!2 405,783 145 4 28 317
139,332 136,166 50 5 30 251
118,898
199,037
380,277
320,217
246,298
255,687
285,927
402,474
56,781
654,911
454,012
231,867
367,520
465,653
335,392
302,746
258,507
374,610
622,295
274,663
480,141
291,251
320.417
377,874
282,622
642,963
420,131
479,362
284,717
705,149
119,094
203,6"4
384,378
326,782
244,796
256,217
300,065
413,826
68,600
556,379
460,220
231,086
373,950
345,613
311,625
26_',701
377,663
630,957
278,123
489,848
306,094
321,766
373.629
283,075
666,106
423,804
477,7;;0
283,.546
736,242
50
138
183
163
127
111
124
122
292
278
214
104
162
466,628 179
123
138
78
111
3 24 189
3 25 160
3 31 339
6 31 501
3 20 336
5 26 446
4 31 4i6
5 42 289
3
3
6
27
38
23
29
40
29
29
62
36
106
108
764
264
426
479
291
287
364
717
Bourg.
Laon.
Moulins.
Digne.
Gap.
Nice.
Privas.
Mezieres.
Foix.
Troyea.
Carcassonne.
Rodez.
Belfort.
Marseille.
Caen.
Aurillac.
Angouleme.
La Rochelle.
Bourges.
Tulle.
Ajaccio.
Dijon.
2.34 5 48 387 St. Brieux.
132 4 25 263 Gueret.
138 6 47 682 Perigueux.
163 4 27 637 Besan(,.on.
128 4 29 370 Valence.
162 6 36 700 Evreux.
123 4 24 426 Chartres.
256 5 43 285 Quimper.
192 4 40 347 Nimes.
199 4 39 684 Toulouse.
118 5 2 4')5 Auch.
194 6 4 551 Bordeaux.
FRANCE AND COLONIES.
883
Departments.
Heraiilt
Ille-et-Vilaine
Indre . . .
Indre-et- Loire
Is^re . . .
Jura . . .
Landes .
Loir-et-Cher .
Loire . . .
Loire (Haute-)
Loire-Inferieure
Loiret . . .
Lot ... .
Lot-et-Garonne
LozJre . . .
Maine-et- Loire
Hanche . .
Mame . . .
Mame (Haute-)
Mayenoe . .
Meurthe-et- i
Moselle f
Menge . . .
Morbihan .
Nievre . . .
Nord . . .
Oige . . .
Ome . . .
Pas-de- Calais
Puy-de-U6me
Pyrenees (Basses-)
Pyrenees i
(Hauteg-) j
Pyrenees- 1
Orientales I
Rh6ne . . .
Saone (Haute-)
Sa6ii^-«:t- Loire
Sarthe . . .
SaToie ...
Savoie (Hau'e-)
Seine . . .
Seine-Inf^rieure
Area.
Engrl. Sq.
MUee.
•J,393
2,597
2,624
2,361
3,-iOI
1,928
3,599
2,452
1,838
1,916
2,654
2,614
2.012
2,067
1,996
2,749
2,025
2,405
2,025
2,632
2,193
2,261
2,354
2,551
3,070
2,943
1,749
1.592
1.077
2,062
3,302
2,396
2,224
1,667
184
2,330
Tnha- Arron- p
Population. bitants disse- Cantons. '^"™-
May, 1872. Dec. 31, 1876. to a So. ments. No. ">""<»■
Mile. No.
429,878 445,053 185 4 36
689,532 602,712 232 6 43
277,693 281,J48 108 4 23
317,027 324,875 136 3 24
575,784
287,634
300,528
26n,801
5.50,611
308,732
602,706
353,021
281,404
319,289
13.0,190
618,471
681,099
281,823
303,.508
272,034
590,613
313,7^1
612,972
360,903
276,512
316,9.'0
138,319
617,2.58
2,289 644,776 639,910
3,1.59 386,157 407.780
2,402 251,196 262,448
1,996 350,637 351,933
366,137
2^4,725
490,352
339,917
1,447,764
294,059
606,573
346,822
1,619,685
398,260
761.168
566,463
426,700
235,156
191,8.56
670,247
303,088
698,344
446,603
267,9.58
273,027
2,-.i20,0G0
790,022
392.626
793,140
670,207
431,625
197,940
70-5,131
304,062
614,309
446,239
268,361
27:t,801
2,410,849
798,414
ISl
162
117
111
321
164
231
138
404,609 201
122
193
132
694
396,804 401,618 177
167
311
186
147
238,037 136
124
653
147
186
186
121
164
13,102
343
2
3
6
4
4
4
3
6
No.
335
352
245
281
45
32
28
24
30
28
46
31
655
584
331
297
Capital.
Montpellier.
Rennes.
Chateauroux.
Tours.
Grenoble.
Lons-le-Saunier.
Mont-de-Marsan.
Blois.
328 St. Etienne.
2b 2 Le Puy.
2 1 5 Nantes.
349 Orleans.
137 3 29" 321 Cahors.
153 4 35 319 Agen.
69 3 24 194 Mende.
189 6 34 380 Angers.
236 6 48 643 St. L6.
129 6 32 665 Chalons.
105 3 28 250 Chaumont.
176 3 27 274 Laval.
27
i8
37
25
61
35
36
44
60
40
26
29
28
50
33
29
28
.8
61
696
687
248
313
661
701
611
904
466
558
Nancy.
Bar-le-Duc.
Vannes.
Nevers.
LUle.
Beaiivais.
Alengon.
Arras.
Clermont-Ferrand.
Pau.
480 Tarbcs.
17 231 Pcrpignan.
Lyon.
Vcsoul.
MScon.
Le Mans.
264
683
688
386
327
313
72
769
Chambery.
Annecy.
Paris.
Bouen.
Seine-et-Hame
8eiae-et-Oiw
BivreB (Deux-)
Sonune . .
Tarn . . .
Tam-et-Oaronne
Var. . . ,
Vauclnse . ,
Vendue . .
Vienne . . .
Vienne (Haute-)
Voages. . .
Tonne . . .
Total . .
2,215
2,164
2,317
2,379
2,217
1,436
2,349
1,370
2,588
2.691
2,130
2,266
2,868
341,490
680,180
331,243
667,015
352,718
221,610
293,757
263,451
401,446
320,598
322,447
392,988
363,608
.'47,323
661,990
336,665
666,641
3.59,2'?2
221, .364
295,763
2.5.5,703
411,781
330,916
336.0C1
407,082
359,070
1.57 6 29 6.'9
260 6 36 686
145 4 31 366
236 6 41 833
162 4 36
1.54 3 24
121 6 28
187 4 22
160
123
l'>7
179
126
30
31
27
29
37
317
194
145
150
298
300
21/2
631
486
Melun.
Versailles.
Niort.
Amiens.
Alby.
Slontauban.
Draguignan.
Avignon.
Roche-sur-Yon.
Poitiers.
I/imoges.
Kpinal.
Au.\erre.
2u4,091 36,102,921 36,90.5,788 181 362 2,863 3«.05«
384
FRANCE.
Area and Population of French
Colonies.
Area.
Inhabitants
^1L^:>-
Population.
to a Sq.
MUe.
Africa : —
Algeria
122,912
2,867,626
23
Senegal ....
62,0U0
221,000
3
Gabon
100
5,000
60
Reunion ....
764
183,163
239
Mayotte, &c. ...
257
25,196
98
Asia: —
India
196
271,460
1,385
Cochinchina ....
21,707
1,600,000
74
Cambodia (protected) .
32,380
890,000
27
America : —
St. Pierre and Miquelon
81
5,481
68
Guadeloupe ....
720
173,149
240
Martinique ....
381
160,831
422
French Guiana
46,S48
32,500
0-7
Polynesia :—
New Caledonia
6,785
68,300
9
Loyalty Islands .
830
13,334
16
Marquesas ....
478
6,011
13
Clipperton ....
2
no inh.
Tahiti (protected) .
438
10,703
25
Tubuai, Vavitu, Oparo (do.) .
66
700
13
Tuamotu Arch. (do. )
2,570
8,000
3
Gambier Islands (do.) .
Total Colonies
12
1,.^00
125
299,017
6,633,954
22
France ....
204,091
36,905,788
181
Grand Total .
503,608
43,439,742
86
FRANCE ;
Its Departments, Natural Regions, and Principal Communes in 1876.
Each Commune consists of a town and its environs. Its population, therefore, is greater than that of
the town bearing the same name. In the text the population of the towns is given.
Departments.
COR-K (COR-
SICA).
Arrondissements.
Ajaccio, Bastia,
Calvt, Gokte,
Sartene.
Natural Regions.
Banda di Dentro, Banda di
Fuori.
Communes of over 5,000 Inhabitants.
Bastia(17,572),Ajaccio(17,050).
THE PYRENEES, THE LANDES, AND THE BASIN OF THE GARONNE.
PYRENEES-
ORIENTALES.
ARIEGE.
HAUTE-GA-
RONNE.
PYRENEES
(HAUTES-).
PYRENEES
(BASSES-).
GEES.
TARN-ET-GA-
RONNE.
LOT-ET-GA-
RONNE.
Pekpionan, Ceket.
Prades.
Foix, Pamiers, St.
GlKOXS.
Toulouse, Muuet,
St. Gaud ens,
Villefkanche.
Tarhes, AaoELfes,
Bagn^ues.
Pau, Bayonne, Mau-
1 Eon, Olokon,
Orthez.
AucH, Condom,
Lectoure, Lom-
BEZ, MlUANDE.
MdXT.AUBAN, CaSTEL-
Sarkasin, Moissac.
Age\, Makmande
Nehac, Ville-
neuve-u'Agen.
Capsir, Val de Segre, Vallespir.
Aspres, Valleys of the Tet, the
Agly, Salanque, &c.
V^alley of the Ariege, Couse-
runs, &c.
Lauraguais, Couserans, Com-
minges, Nebouzan, Quatre-
VaUees,Lomagne,Toulousain.
Valleys of the Aure and the
Adour; Plateau of Lanne-
mezan, Nebouzan, Astarae.
Valley of the Gaves of Beam,
Soule, Labourd, Lower
Navarre, Landes, Touyas.
Comminges, Astai'ac, Arma-
gnac.
Plateau of Quercy, Valley of
the Garonne, Lomagne.
Agenais, Lomagne, Armagnac.
Perpignan (28,353), Rivesaltes
(6,329).
Pamiers (8,967), Foix (6,362).
Toulouse (131,642),St. Gaudens
(5,965), Revel (5,613).
Tarbes (21,293), Bagnferes
(9,508), Lourdes (5,471).
Pau (28,908), Bavonne (27,416),
Oloron Ste. 'Marie (8,644),
Orthez (6,624), Haspairen
(5,566), Biarritz (6,507),
Salies (5,140).
Auch (13,785), Condom (7,873),
Lectoure (5,507).
Montauban (26,952), Moissac
(9,137), Castel-Sarrasin
(6,906).
Agen (19,.'i03), ViUeneuve
(14,448), Marmande (8,961),
Tonneins (8,199), N^ao
(7,686).
DEPARTMENTS, NATURAL REGIONS, AND PRINCIPAL COMMUNES. 385
THE PYEENEES, THE LANDES, AND THE BASIN OF THE GAEONNE-(CbM<.n«erf).
Dcpartmenta.
Anondinementa.
Natural Regions.
Communes of over 5,000 Inhabitants,
LANDES.
GIRONDE.
MnHT-DE-MARSAN,
Dax, St. Sever.
BoKDKAUx, Bazar,
Blaye, La H£ule,
Lesi-ahke, Li-
BOUKNE.
Landcs, Buch, Marausin, Cha-
I088C.
Landes, Medoc, Bordelai^ Baza-
dais, Benange, Entre-Ueu.v-
Mera, Libournais, Blayais.
Dax (10,250), Mont-de-Marsan
(9,310).
Bordeaux (215,140), Libourne
(15,231), Begles (6,202),
Cauderan (6,306), La Teste
(5,3 U), Bazas (5,u73).
THE ALPS, THE RH6>fE, AND THE MEDITERRANEAN COAST REGIONS.
AUDE.
HERAULT.
GARD.
AEDECHE.
BOUCHES-DU-
RHONE.
VAR.
ALPES-MARI-
TIMES.
VAUCLU8E.
ALPES
(HAUTES-).
ALPES
(BASSES).
dr6me.
ISERE.
8AV0IE.
8AV0IE
(HAUTE-).
CABfASSONNE, CaS-
TELNAVDAUY, Ll-
Houx, Nakbonne.
MoNTPELLIEK, B£-
zitug, LooivE, St.
Puns.
NixES, Alaik, L»:
Vioaj*, Uzis.
Pkivas, Lahoen-
TitKK, TOUKNON.
Marseille,
Aules.
Aix,
Dhaouionan, Bki-
0n0le8, toulox.
Nice, Grasse, Pu-
oet-Th£niek8.
AvioNON, Apt, Cak-
pentbas, Obaxoe.
Gap, Bbianqon,
Emhruk.
DtfjNE, Barcelon-
nette, Cabtel-
LANE, FoRCAL-
QUIEH, SlSTEKON.
Die, MostSlimabt,
Ntomi, Valence.
Grenoble, La Tour-
Du-Pis, St. Mar-
CELLIN, ViENNE.
Chamb£ry, Albert-
VILLE, MiLTlERS,
St. .Iean-oe-Mal-
BIBNNE.
Amnecy, Bonne-
ville, St. Juliex,
Thonon.
Montagne Noire, Corbiferes,
Razes, Lauraguais, Valley of
the Aude, Ijagoons (Etangs).
Ccvennes, Valleys of the Lez,
the Herault, the Orb, and the
Aude, Lagoons.
Ccvennes, Valleys of the
Gardens, Vaunago, Garrigues,
Marshes, and Dunes.
Mountains of Vivarais, Coiron,
Valley of the lilione.
Camargue, Crau, Valley of the
Durance, Hill Region, Shore
Region.
Ba.sin of the Argens, Mountains
of the Moors, Valley of the
Gapeau, Shore Region.
Valleys of the Riya, the V^su-
bie, the Tinee, and the Var,
Shore Region.
Ventoux, Leberon, Palus,
Valleys of the Rhone and of
the Durance.
Queyras, Oisana, Champsaux,
Devoluy.
Mountains of Upper Provence,
Valley of the Durance.
Divolny, Dioia, Forest of Saou,
Tricastin, Valley of the
Ehone.
Oisans, Devoluy, Lans, Vercors,
Grande-Chiirtreusc, Grandes-
Rousses, Sept-Laux, Graisi-
vaudan, Bifevre.
Plain of Savoy, Bauges, Mau-
rienne, Tarentuise.
G^nevois, Faucigny, Chablais
Carcassonne (2.0,971), Narbonne
(19,968). Castelnaudary
(9,042), Limoux (6,661).
Montpellier (.05,258), Beziers
(.•i8,227), Cette (28,690),
Lodcve (10,.i28), Lunel,
(8,315), Agde (8,251), Pezenas
(7,966), Bcdarieux (7,961)
Mezc (6,825), Clermont-
I'Hcrault (5,964), St. Pons
(5,809).
Nimes (63,001), Alais (20,893),
Besseges (10,668), La Grand'-
Combe (10,162\ Beaucaire
(8,777), St. GiUes (6,302),
Uzes (5,585), Le Vigan
(5,.389), Anduze (5,110).
Annonav (15,848), Aubenas
(7,781'), Privas (7,753), Tour-
non (6,083).
Marseille (318,868), Aix
(28,693), Aries (25,095),
Tarascon (10,409), La Ciotat
(10,058), Aubagne (8,027),
Salon (7,021), Martigiies
(6,963), St. Remy (6,999).
Toulon (70,609), Hvferes
(12,289), La Seyne (10,65.5),
Draguignan (9,223), Bn-
gnoles (5,840).
Nice (53,397), Cannes (14,022),
Grasse (13,087), Meutoh
(7,819), Antibes (6,752).
Avignon (38,008), Carpentraa
(10,479), Orange (10,212),
Cavaillon (8,454), L'Isle
(6,50X), Apt (5,687), Pertuis
(5,649), Bollfene (5,478).
Gap (9,294).
Digne (7,222),Manosque(6,136).
Valence (23,220), Romans
(12,923), Mont6Umart
(11,946), Crest (6,600).
Grenoble (^ 5,426), Vienne
(26,502), Voiron (11,064),
Bourgoin (5,021).
Chambery (18,645).
Annecy (10,976), Thonon
(6,601).
886
FEANCE.
THE JUEA AND THE BASIN OF THE SOMME.
Departments.
Arrondiasements.
AIN.
BouRO, Bellet, G ex,
Nantua.TrSvol'x.
JURA.
L0N8 - LE - SalNIEU,
Dole, Polignv,
St. Claude.
DOUBS.
Besanijon, Baume-
les-Dames, Mont-
HfeuIARD, PoNTAK-
LIEB.
RHIN (BAS-).
Belfort.
SAONE
Vesoul.Gray, Lxiee.
(HAUTE-).
COTE-U'OR.
Dijon, Bbaune, Cha-
TiLLON-suR- Seine,
Semuk.
SAONE-ET-
Macon, Autun, Cha-
LOIHE.
LON - SUR - Saone.
Charolles, Lou
HANS.
rh6ne.
Lyon, Ville
PKANCHE.
Natural Regions.
Jura, Bugey, Dombes, Bresse.
Mountains and table-land of the
Jura, Bresse, Fiuage.
Mountains and table-land of the
Jura.
Gap of Belfort.
Vosges, Fauoilles, Mountains of
Lure, Valley of the Snone.
Morvan, Auxois, Chatillouiiais,
Cote-d'Or, Plain of the Saone.
Morvan, Antunnais, CharoUais,
Brioiinais, Bresse.
Mountains of Lj'onnais and
Beaujolais, Valleys of the
Saone and the Rhone.
Communes of over 5,000 Inhabitants.
B.jurg (1.5,692).
Dole (12,924), Lons-le-Saunier
(11,3J1), St. Claude (7,550),
Salins (6,271). Morez (6,4ia),
Arbois ( 5,027 ), Poligny
(5,010).
Besan<;on (54,404), Montbeliard
(8,938), Poiilarlier (5,714).
Belfort (15,173).
Vesoul (9,206), Gray (7,401),
Fougerolles (5,459).
Dijon (47,939), Beaune (11,421),
Auxonne (6,532).
Le Creusot (26,432), ChSlon-
sur-Saoiie (20,895), Macon
(17,570), Autun (12,8891,
Montcau-les-Mines (11,011),
Tournus (5,527).
Lyon (342,815), Tarare (14,383),
Villefrai.che (12,485), Givors
(11,910), Villeurbiinne
(9,033), Caluire - et - Cuire
(8,702), Amplepuis (6,915),
Cours (6,157), Oullins (5,074),
Venissieux (5,224), Ste. Foy-
las-Lyon (5,118).
THE CENTRAL PLATEAU.
LOZERE.
LOIRE
(HAUTR-).
AVEYRON.
TARN.
LOT.
CANTAL.
PUY-DE-
DOME.
CORREZE.
DORDUGNE.
VIENNE
(HAUTE-).
CREUSE.
ALLIER.
Mkndb, Flokac,
Marvejoi s.
Le Puv, Briocde,
Ybbinoeaux.
RoDEZ, Esl'AUON,
MiLLAU, St. Af-
FHIQUE, VlLLE-
FRANCHE.
Alhy, Castres,
Gaillac, Lavaur.
Caiiors, Fioeac,
GoURDON.
AUHILLAC, MaURIAC,
MuRAT, St. Flour.
Ci.ekmont-Ferrand,
Ambekt, Issoire,
RioM, Thiers.
TuLLB, Brive, Us'el.
Wrioueux, Beh-
gehao, Nonthon,
RiHERAC, Sari. at.
LiMOOES, Bellac,
Roche - Chouart,
St. Yrieix.
GufittET, AUBUSSON,
Bouroaneuf,
B<)U.«.'iAC.
M0ULIN8, Gann.at,
La Palisse. Mont-
Plateau of Gevaudan.
Plateau of Velay.
Gausses, Sfegales, Hills of Rou-
ergue.
Montagne Noire, Hills of La-
caune, Sidobre, Albigeois.
Causse of Lot, V.alleys of the
Dirdogne and the Lot.
Cezallier, Cantal, Plaueze.
Plateau of Auvergne, Mountains
of Forez, Valley of the Li-
magne.
Plateau of Limousin.
Perifj^'ir'i, Nontronn'is. Sarla-
diiis. Valley of the Dordogne,
Double.
Plateau of Limousin.
Plateaux of Marche and Li-
mousin.
Plateaux of Bourbonnais, Val-
leys of
AUier.
the Loire and the
Mende (7,300).
Le Puy (19,250), Yssingemx
(8,3711.
Millau (15,695), Rodez (13.375),
Villcfranche (10,124), Aubiu
(9,864), Decazeville (9,.i47),
St. Affriqufi (7.622).
Castros (25,856), Albv (19,169),
Mazamot (14,16S\ Gaillac
(8,124), Lavaur(7,563),Graul-
hnt (6 940). Carm-iux" (6,160),
Rabastens (5,1 6 1 ), Paylaureiis
(5,141).
Cahors (13,660). Figeac (7,333),
Gourdoii (5,098).
Aurillac (11,211), St. Flour
(5,.3S1).
Clermont (41.772), Thiers
(16,343), Riom (10,S01),
Issoire (6,250), St. Remy
(5.572).
J Tulle (15,342). Brive (11,920).
jPerigueux (24,169), Bergerac
I (13,120), Siirlat (6,554).
I Limoges (59,011), St. Junien
(8,221). St Yrieix (7,429), St.
I Leonard (5,989).
AubuRSon (6,847), Gueret
j (5,859).
Montlucon (23,416), Moulins
(21,774), Comm™trv(12 978),
Vichy (6,428). Gannat (5,568),
Cusset (6,308), Montvioq
(6,242).
DEPARTMENTS, NATUfiAL EEGIONS, AND PEINCIPAL COMMUNES. 887
THE CENTRAL PLATEAU.— (ConHiHwerf).
Deiiattinents.
LOIRE.
Arrondinements.
St. 6tie.nne, Mont-
BKI8UN, RoANNE.
Natiml Begkoi.
Hills of Forez, Valley of the
Loire, Beaigolais.
Gammimee of orer 6,000 Inbabitanta.
St. Elienne (126,019), Roanne
(2-2,797), R.ve - de - Gi«
tl.5,004),St.Chamond(14,420),
Firminv (11,972), Chambdn-
Feugerblles (8,314), Rica-
marie (6,700), Terrenoire
(6,378), Montbrieon (6,363),
St. Jiilien-eiiJarret (6,230),
Chazelles-sur-Lyon (5,91.5),
Jii«ieux (5,194), Fanissi^res
(5,017).
CHARENTE AND VENDEE.
CHAEENTE.
CHARENTE-
INFERIEURE.
VIENNE.
SEVRES
(DEUX-).
VENDUE.
AvoouLtMi, Bahbe-
zui'x. Cognac,
CoNFOLSNg, RUF-
FEC.
La Rocuelle, Jon-
Z4C, Mabennes,
RoCHEFOKT, St.
Jean - d'Anoely,
Sainteb.
PolTIEHB, ChATEL-
LIKAULT, CiVMAT,
LOIIIC.V, MONTMO-
BILLON.
NlOHT, BbE!>8CIKE,
Melle, Pakthe-
NAT.
La Roche-sub-Yon,
fonten ay - le -
COMTE, SaBLES-
d'Olonnes.
Confolennais, Terres-Chaudes,
Pays-Ba«, Bois, Champagne,
Double.
Doable, Champagne, Bocage,
Marais.
Plateau, Valleys of the Vienne
and the Chaiente.
Bocage, Plain, Marsh.
Bocage, Plain, Marsh, Islnnds.
Angouleme (30,.513), Cognac
(14,900).
Rochefort (27,012), La Rochelle
(19,583), Saintes (13,725), St.
Jean - d'Angely (7,172), St.
Georges (6,208), Royan
(5,155).
Pciitiers (33,253), Chatellerault
(18,053), Montmorillon
(6,106).
Niort (20,923), Parthenay
(.0,091).
Roche - sur - Yon (Napoleon )
(9,755), Sables - d'Olonne
(9,347), Fontenay-le-Comte
(8,453), Lu<,'on (6,247), Noir-
moutier (6,787).
THE BASIN OF THE LOIRE.
NIEVRE.
CHER.
INDRE.
LOIRET.
LOIR-ET-
CHER.
ETJRE-ET-
LOIR.
INDRE-ET-
LOIRE.
MAINE-ET-
LOIKE.
SARTHE.
MAYENNE.
NbVE Its, Ch A TEAU-
Chinon, Olamecy,
COSNS.
BouKOES, St. Amamd.
MoNT-RoND, San-
CKRBB.
CHiiTBACBOrX, Le
Blanc, La Ch.\tre,
issoudun.
Obl£an8, Oien,
MoNTAKOIS, PlTHI-
TIEH8.
Bl.018, ROMORANTIN,
Venu^mb.
Chartres, Chateau-
dun, Dreux, No-
oint-le-rotiiou.
TouBs, Chinon,
LoCHES.
AN0EB8,BAun£. Cbo-
LKT, SaUMUR.
StORfi.
Lf. Mans, La FLicHE,
Mamers, St. Ca-
lais.
I/ATAI,, ChATEAU-
OoNTiEK, May -
ENNB.
Morvan, Valleys of the Yonne
and the Loire.
Plateau, Sologne.
Champagne,
Brenne.
Buis - Chaud,
Sologne, Val, Puisaye, GAlinaia,
t crest of Orleans, Beauce.
Beance, Val, Sologne.
Beauce, Diinois, Drouais, Thy-
me rais, Perche.
Gatine, Varenne, Champeigne,
Plateau of St. Maure, Brenne.
Aiijou, Vallec, Mauges, Bocage.
Coeirons, Lower Maine, Beli-
nois, GStine.
CoevTons, Upper Maine, Craon-
iiais.
Nevers (22,704), CoBne (6,851),
Fourchambault (6,884),
Clamecy (5,432), La Chariie
(6,086).
Bourges (35,786), Vierzon-Ville
(8,995), St. Amand-Moiit-
Rond (5,499), Vierzon-Village
(6,731), Mehun-sur-Yfevre
(6,326), Dun-le-Roi (5,001).
Chateauroux (19,442), Issoudun
j (13,703), Le Blanc (6,122),
Buzan^ais (5,109), Argenton
(5,682).
Orleans (52,157), Montargis
(9,175), Gien (7,555), Briare
(5,162), Pilhiviers (6,006).
Blois (20,515), Vendome (9,221),
Romorantin (7.826).
Cliartres (20,468), Dreux (7,922),
Nogent - le - Rotrou (7,638),
Chatcaudun (6,694).
Tours (48,:t25), Chinon (6,301),
Leches (5,085).
Angers (56,846), Cholet( 14,288),
Saumur (13,822), Chalonnes-
sur-Loire (5,530), Trelaze
(5,264).
Le Mans (50,175), La F16cho
(9,405), Sable (5,947), Mamers
(5.342).
Laval (27,107), Mavenne
(10,098), Cfiateau - Gbntier
(7,218), Ernee (5,336).
888
FRANCE.
THE BASIN OF THE 1.0IBM— {Continued).
Departments.
LOIRE- INFE
EIEUEE.
Arrondiseements.
Nantes, Ancenis,
Chateaubriant,
Paimbcelf, St.
Nazaike.
Natural Regions.
Plateau of Brittany, Viilley of
the Loire, Bii&re, Gueraude,
Rttz.
Communes of over 5,000 Inhabitants.
Nantes (122,247), St. Nazaire
(18,300), Chantenay (9,963),
Reze (6,849), Blain (6,807),
Guerande (6,804), Gueinene-
Penfao (6,167), Nort (o,76o),
Vertou (5,471), Chateaubriant
(5,228), Vallet (5,200), An-
cenis (5,177), Please (5,154).
BRETAGNE (BRITTANY).
MORBIHAN.
FINISTEKE.
c6tes-du-
NORD.
ILLE-ET-
VILAINE.
VaNVES, LOBIENT,
Ploermel Pon-
QuiMPEK, Brest,
Chateaulin, Mor-
laix, Quimpehl£.
St. Brieuc, Dinan,
GuiNGAMP, LaN-
NION, LOUD^AC.
Rennes, Fotjoeres,
Montfort, Redon,
St. Malo, Vith£.
Landes of Lanvanx, Vannetais,
Coast Region, Islands.
Comonaille, Montagne Noire,
Valley of the Aulno, Landes
of Carhaix, Hills of Ariee,
Leon.
Monts Menez, L6on, Trfgorrois.
Basin of the Vllaine, Marsh of
Dol, Pays Malouin.
Lorient (35,16-5), Vannos
(17,946), Ploeniieur (10,600),
Poniivy (8,2o2), Languidic
(6,43.3), Hennebont (6,050),
Sarzeau (5,718), Caudan
(5,707), Ploermel (5,505).
Brest (66,828), Morlaix(15,183),
Quimper (i:),879), Lambe-
zellac (12,379), Douarnenez
(8,637), Landerneau (8,195),
Crozon (7,763), St. Pol de
Leon (7,005), Quipavas
(6,802), Quimpeile (6,533),
Plougastel-Daoulas (6,506),
St. Pierre-Quilbignon (6,301),
Briec (5,906), Plougeurneau
(5,951), Pleyben (5,229).
St. Brieuc (16,355), Dinan
(8,180), Guingamp (7,895),
Lannion (6,294), Loud^ae
(5,901), Plevin (5,664), Plouha
(5,229).
Rennes (57.177), St. Servan
(12,281), Fougcies (11.873),
St. Malo (10,295), Vitry
(9,870), Le Grand Fougerae
(6,370), Cancale (6,239), Re-
don (6,446), Combourg(5,558),
Plemtuit (5,238).
LOWER NORMANDY AND COTENTIN.
MANCHE.
ORNE.
CALVADOS.
St. LS, Atkanches,
Chekbouro, Cou-
tances, Mortain,
Valognes.
Alenqox, Aroentan,
Domfront, Mor-
tagne.
Caen, Bateux, Fa-
LAISE, LiSIEUX,
Pont - l'Ev6(»ub,
Vibe.
Avrancliin, Cot'-ntiu, Hague,
Marain (Marsh).
Perche, Merlerault, Alencjon-
nais, Marches.
Bocage, Camp^gne of Caen,
Auge, Lieuvin, Ouche.
Cherbourg (37,186), Granville
(12,527), St. Lo (9,706),
Avranches (8.157), Coutinces
(8,008), Valoanes (5,831),
Tourlaville (5,757). ,
Alen(;on ( 16,6 1 5), Fler8(l 1,155),
La Ferte-Mace (9,769), Ar-
gentan (.5,788), Laigle (5,196).
Caen (41,181), Lisieux (18,.396),
Honfleur (9,425), Bayeux
(8,614), Falaise (8,428),
Conde-sur-Noireau (7,350),
Vire (6,718), Truuville(5,886).
YONNE.
AUBE.
BASIN OF THE SEINE.
AuxERRE, AvAi.LON, ! Avallonnais, Auxerroi«. Piii-
JolGNY,
ToNNERRE.
Sens,
Trotes, Nogent-
bur-Seine, Arcis-
svr-Albe, Bar-
BVR-AuBE, Bar-
si; r-Seine.
saye, Gatinais, Senonais.
Champagne.
Auxerre (16,239), Sens (12,309),
Joigiiy (6,317), Avalion
(5,930), Tonnerre (5,53b),
Villeneuve-<ur-Y<inne(5,084 ).
Troyes (41,375), Romilly-sur-
Seiue (5,190).
DEPARTMENTS, NATURAL REGIONS, AND PRINCIPAL COMMUNES. 389
BASIN OF THE SEINK-iContimied).
1
DepartmeDts.
Arrondiaeenunti.
MARNE
ChAUMOKT, L4KOBB8,
(HAUTE-).
Vasst. ,
MAENK.
CH.tLONg, EpERNAY,
Reinr, Ste. Mene-
HOULD, VlTBY-LE-
Fhan^wis.
SEINE-ET-
Melun, Coclom-
MAKNE-
MtEM, FoNTAIvE-
rn-EAu, Meaux,
Pkovins.
SEINE.
Pari8, St. Denis,
SCEAUX.
SEINE-ET-
VSKSAlLLEg, CoRBEIL,
UISK
&TAMI-B8, Mantes,
PuNTOISE, KaM-
BOVILLET.
AISNE
*
LaON, CHATgAU-
ThIERBY, S0I88ONR,
St. QUENTIN,
Vervinb.
OISE.
BeauvaiSiClermont,
COMPUONE, bEN-
I.I8.
EURE
EVRECX, LE8 A«DE-
LYK, Behnay, L<)U-
YtEBU, PoNT-AUDE-
meb.
SEINE-INFfe-
Rouen, Dieppe, Le
KIEURE.
Havre, NEfpcM.i-
til, Yvktot.
Natural Regions.
Plateau of Langree, Bassigny,
Vallage, Perthois.
Boia«e, Pertliois, Argonne,
Champagne Pouilleuse, Brie,
Reiuois, Tardeuois.
Brie, Qatinais.
Paris Basin.
Communes of over 5,000 Inhabitants.
Galinais, Hurepoix, Beauce,
Mantois, Frenub Vexin.
Brie, Valois, T«rdenais, Laon-
nais, VermaLdois, Soissonuais,
Thierache.
Noyonnnis, Beauvaisis, Sau-
terre. Bray, Vuxin.
Norman Vexin, Campagne of
Evreux and St. Andrfi, Ouche,
Lieuvin, Roumoia.
Roumois, Great and
Cuux.
Liltlfc
St. Dizier (12,754), Langrea
(10,376), Chaumont (9,226).
Keiras (81,.'i28), Chaicns-sur-
Marne (20.236), Epernay
(15,606), Vitry-le-Fran9oi8
(7,616), Ay (o,0(i3).
Meaux (11,739), Fontainebleau
(11,6.53), Meluii (11,241),
Provins (7,593), Moiitereau-
faull-Yonne (7,041), Coulomr
miers (;),240).
Paris (1.988,806), St. Denis
(34,908), Levallois-Perret
(22,744), Boulogne (21,556),
Neiiilly (20,781), Vincennes
(18,243), Clichy (17,364),
Ivrv (15,247), Auberviiliers
(14,340), Mnntreuil (13,607),
Pantin (13,665), Puteaux
( 1 2, 1 8 1 ), Courbevoie (11,934),
St. Ouen (11.255), Gentilly
(10,378), Issy (9,484),'Charen-
ton-Ie-Pont (8,822), Vanves
(8,812), St. Maur (8,433),
Asnidies (8,278), Maisons-
Altort (7,619). Nogent-sur-
Manie (7.559), St. Mande
(7,499), Colombes (6,640),
Montrouge (6,371), Suresnes
(6, 1 49), Choisy-le-Roi (5,82 1 ),
Arcueil (5,299).
Versailles (49,847), St. Germain-
eii-Laye (17,199), Argenteuil
(8,990), Rueil (8,807), EtiJmpes
(7,840), Sevres (6,552). Meu-
don (6,426), Pontoise (6,412),
Corbeil (6,392), Mantes
(5,649). Essonnes (5,334),
Poi.-'sy (5,063).
St. Quentin (38,924), Laon
(12,132), Soissons (11,089),
Chauny (9,198), Chateau-
Thierry (6,902), Guise (6,260),
Bohain (6,005).
Beaiivais (16,6(i0), Compi^gne
( 1 3,393), Senlis (6,545), Noyon
(6,439), Clermont (6.101),
Creil (5,737), Moutataire
, (5,106).
Evreux (14.627), Louviers
(10,913), Bcriiay (7,644), Ver-
non (6,636), Poiit-Audemer
(5,942), l.es Andelys (4,574).
Rouen (104,902), Le Havre
(92,068), EUieuf (22,213),
Dieppe (20,333), Fecamp
(12,684), Sotteville-I6s- Rouen
lU,763), Caiidebec-16s-Elbeuf
(11,338), Bolbec (11,106),
Yvetot (8,444), Petit-Qiievilly
(6.260), Darnetal (5,618),
Lillebonne (5,396).
NORTHERN FRANCE.
BOMME. I Amiens, Abbeville,! Vermandois, Santerre, Amie-
I DouLLENs, MoNT- nois, Vimou. Pouthieu. llar-
I DiDiBB, P£ro.ine. ! quenteire.
Amiens (66,866), Abbeville
(19,381), Villers-Bretonneux
(6,356).
890
FRANCE.
NORTHERN FRANCE— (Co«<i/»«<;).
Department.
AiTondissemenia.
PAS-DE-
CALAIS.
NOED.
Auras, B^thune,
Boulogne, Munt-
reuil-suu-Mek
St. Omer, St. Pol.
Lille, Avesnes,
Cambrai, Douai,
DiinkerqIjE, Haze-
RuoucK, Valen-
ciennes.
Natural Kegions.
Artois, Ponthieu, Boulonnais,
Calaisis, Pays-Bas (Low-
lands).
French Hainaut, Camliresis,
Pev^le, Wallon Flanders,
Flemish Flanders, Waeter-
inghes, Moeres, Dunes.
Communes of over 5,000 Inhabitants.
Boulogne (40,075), Arras
(26,764), St. Pierre-Its
Calais (2.5,853>, St. Omer
(21. 8.3.)), Calais (12,573),
Bethune (9,315), Lens(9,:'.83),
Carvin (7,471 ),Lillers(7,00:i),
Henin-Lietard (5,491), Lievin
(■5,463).
LiUe (162,775), Roubaix
(83,661), Tourcoing (48,634),
Dunkerque (35,071). Douai
(26,999), Valenciennes
(26,083), Cambrai (22,079),
Annentieres (21,746), Wat-
trelos { 15,325), Maubeutre
(14,398), Denain (14,419),
Halluin (13,771), Baillcul
(12,968), Fourmiors (11,888),
Hazebrouck (9,857), Le
Cateau (9,597), Anzin (9,009),
Mareq-en-Baroeul (8,411),
Gravelines (7,833), La Made-
laine (7,461), Estaires (6,949),
Hautmont (0,973), Merville
(6,912), Loos, (6,706) Co-
mines (6,409), Solesmes
(6,443), Fresnes (6,045). Croix
(5,741), Vieux-Conde (5,681),
Aniches (5,484), Haubardin
(5.379), Bergues (5.368),
Somin (5 110), Seclin (5,022),
Quesnoy-sur-Deule (5,014).
THE VOSGES. BASINS OF THE MEUSE AND THE MOSELLE.
MEUSE.
ARDENNES.
VOSGES.
MEtlRTHE-ET-
MOSELLE.
Bah-le-Duc, Com-
MEHCY, MoNTMfiUY,
Verdun.
MEzifeREs, Rethel,
RocR 'I, Sedan,
vouziers.
Epinal, Mirecourt,
Neuchateau, Re-
MiREMONT, St. Die.
Nancy, Briey, Lunfi-
viLLE, Toul.
Barrois, Verdunois, Argonne,
Woevre.
Champagne, Argonne, Rethe-
lois, Plateau of Ardenne.
Vosges, Faucilles, Slope towards
the Safine, Slope towards the
Moselle.
Valleys of Lorraine, Toulois,
Woevro.
Bar-le-Duc (16,728), Verdun-
sur-Meuse (15,781), St.
Mihiel (5,178), Commerey
(5,151).
Sedan (16,593), Charloville
(13,759), Rethel (7,415), Givet
(5,575), Mezieres (5,319),
, Nouzon (5,411).
Epinal (14,894), St. Die (14,51 1),
Remiremont (7,866), Val
d'Ajol (7,173), Gerardmer
(6,.5'43), Hambervillers (6,281),
Mirecourt (5,266).
Nancy (66,303), LunSville
(16,041), Pont - a - Mousson
(111,970). Toul (10,085), Bac-
carat (5,764).
SWITZERLAND.
SI
.'I
UL_t_l ^L ±.
! W.^I<L,h
NEW TOR
r,ETOH 8t C?
SWITZERLAND.*
CHAPTER I.
General Aspects. — The ALP8.t
HE Helvetian Republic, or Switzerland, named after Schwitz, one of
the least of its cantons, occupies a small area in comparison with
that of the neighbouring states. Two hundred Switzerlands would
scarcely equal Europe in area ; and in huge empires, such as
Russia or Brazil, a territory so small in extent would hardly be
deemed deserving of notice, and on some maps even its name would be looked
for in vain.
Yet, notwithstanding its smallness, Switzerland, owing to its geographical
position, is one of the most important countries of Europe. Taken as a whole,.
and in spite of its erratic boundaries, the result of wars and political vicissitudes,
it occupies the very centre of what must be looked upon as the true Europe.
Within it rise the most important, though not the highest, ranges of the Alps,
having a large portion of their surface covered with perpetual snow and ice.
Within it rise some of the most considerable rivers of Central Europe. Swiss
lakes and glaciers are reservoirs of the water which fertilises many of the sur-
rounding plains; and to these snow-clad Helvetian Alps the plains of Lombardy,
the valley of the Rhone, and Southern Germany are largely indebted for their
prosperity.
In a former age these bold mountains were much dreaded, and travellers
avoided the savage gorges and difficult roads of Switzerland, preferring to make
wide detours in order that they should not be obliged to cross the Alps where
they are highest. All this is changed now ; and travellers in thousands annually
visit Switzerland to admire its glaciers, its mountain scarps and waterfalls, and
• Berlppsch, " Schwcizer Eande ; " Studer, " Geologie der Schweiz ; " Tschudi. " Thier leben der
Al|x-nwclt ; " Max Wirth, " Beachreibung und Statistik der Schweiz ; " Egli, " Schweizer Kunde ; " .
Ilepwortli Dixon, " The Switzers."
t "Annuals of the Swiss Alpine Clubs; " " Bulletin Vnudois des Sciences Naturelles;" G. Studer,
" Ucbcr Kis und Schnee ; " Oswald Heer, " Le Monde I'riinitif de la Suisse ; " Theobald, " Natur-Bildcr
aus den Rhatitchon Alpen ; " Jaccard, " Mat6riaux pour I'Histoire G^ologique de la Suisse."
892 8WITZEELAND.
a country which formerly proved so deterrent now exercises a most powerful
attraction. A new passion has arisen amongst men, that of mountain climbin"-,
and hence the multitudes who now admire Lake Leman, the glacier of the Rhone,
the falls of Handeck, and the snows of the Jungfrau, virgin no longer. Switzer-
land has become the common meeting-place of all those whose hearts beat with
emotion when contemplating the superb spectacles there oftered by nature, and
something seems to be wanting until we have looked upon the Alps at least once
in our lives. The very name of Switzerland evokes in our mind the idea of
incomparable landscapes ; and many districts all over Europe are known as
" Little " Switzerlands, because their scenery recalls some of the majesty or beauty
of that wondrous land.
But Switzerland also deserves to be studied on account of its histoiy, political
institutions, and inhabitants. The geographical position of that country has pre-
served it from many vicissitudes which visited its neighbours, Italy, France, and
Germany. In their mountain recesses the inhabitants were not only better able
than the dwellers in the plains to preserve ancient customs and traditions, but,
being in the enjoyment of greater political liberty, they were enabled to secure a
prominent position as regards material wealth and education. Statistics prove that
Switzerland occupies a foremost place amongst civilised nations, and it is the duty
of the geographer to search out the causes of this pre-eminence.*
Great, apparently, is the disorder which reigns in the arrangement of the
mountain masses, spurs, and precipices of the Helvetian Alps. But though
oscillations of the soil, avalanches, torrents, and other geological agencies have
been actively at work for centuries, we are still able to perceive that as a whole
the mountains of Switzerland radiate from a central group.
This group, the key of the entire system, is the St. Gotthard ; and the ranges
of Ticino, the mountain masses of the Simplon, the Bernese Oberland, the Titlis,
the Todi, and the Grisons all converge upon it. As recently as the middle
of the last century the summits of the St. Gotthard were thought to" be the
culminating points, not only of Switzerland, but of the whole of Europe. Colonel
Michel du Cret, in 1755, estimated their height at 18,000 feet ; and it was thought
absolutely necessary that mountains from which descended so many rivers must
be of corresponding height. Further investigation has established the fact that
the volume of a river is altogether independent of the height at which it rises.
Still there cannot be a doubt that the elevation of the St. Gotthard was much
greater formerly than it is now. In proof of this geologists refer us to the
actual shape of the mountain, whose granitic core and outer envelope of schists
and limestone have been exposed to an immense amount of destruction, causing
its summit to have the appearance of a wrecked dome of huge proportions. Even
in our own days geological agencies are busily at work reducing the height of
* Area of Switzerland, 15.992 square miles, of which 26,830 square miles are habitable. Population
(1877), 2,780,000 souls, or 172 to the square mile. Average height of the entire country above the sea-
level, 4,260 feet.
GENERAL ASPECTS.— THE ALPS. 898
the mountain. The rounded, water-worn rocks which cover its slopes, and
numerous small depressions filled with ice or water, according to the season, are
evidences of the work of erosion. The torrents which rise in the snows of this
mountain mass have carried away the debris that filled up the ancient lakes, and
the lower plains have been covered with a layer of alluvial soil.
In our own days, the St. Gotthard, instead of being the culminating point of
the Central Alps, is one of the least elevated of their summits. Its peaks barely
reach a height of 10,000 feet, and they scarcely pierce the snow-line. Even if
we joined to the group of the St. Glotthard the crescent-shaped mountain ram-
part extending for a distance of 20 miles between the Passes of Nufenen and
Lukmanier, we should not meet with mountain giaats of the first rank, whilst
the glaciers of that portion of the Alps are altogether inferior.* Thanks to this
depression in the crest of the Alps, and to the Talleys which converge towards
it, the region of the St. Gotthard afPords the greatest facilities for crossing the
mountains. The heads of the great valleys whieh the Rhine and the Rhone
have excavated for themselves meet here, as do the transversal valleys of the
Reuss and the Ticino. The high valley of Andermatt, an ancient lake basin,
now alternately covered with luxuriant grass or with a winding-sheet of snow,
thus occupies the real orographical centre of all Switzerland ; and it is not a
mere accident if the four cardinal roads of the Alps converge upon it. A great
town would have grown up there were it not for the rigours of the climate. But
towns, and even villages, can prosper only in more southern climes at such a
height, and hence the political centre aronnd wliich the cantons of Switzerland
have grouped themselves has grown up at the mouth of the gorge of the St.
Gotthard. It is there we meet with the famous village of Altdorf, the capital of
the proud and uncultured people of Uri, who adopted a wild bull for their
symbol, and in many a campaign marched at the head of the Confederates.
The valleys which open out to the south of the St. Gotthard, and which are
traversed by tributaries of the Po, were the first conquests made upon foreign
soil by the people of Uri. Politically these valleys form part of Switzerland, and
their inhabitants are undoubtedly contented with their lot ; but Ticino is, never-
theless, Italian by clin\ate, vegetation, and inhabitants, no less than the Valteline
and the other valleys on the Piemontese and Lombard slopes of the Alps. The
upper valley of the Ticino, resembling a huge fosse excavated at the foot of the
St. Gotthard, forms a well-defined geographical boundary. The mountains of
Central Switzerland rise abruptly above it, whilst in the north they slope down
more gently. One portion of this southern slope, however, spreads out into a
wide plateau before it sinks down abruptly towards the valley of the Ticino.
We refer to the beautiful Val Piora, with its lakes embosomed amidst a carpet
of flowers during summer. The eastern prohmgation of this plateau abuts upon
the pastures of the Lukmanier, where the central crest of the Alps can scarcely
• Averagp heij^ht of summits (according to Studer), 9,414 feet ; culminating peak of the St. Gotthard
(Pizzo Kotondo), l'',463 feet; Pass of St. Gotthard, 6,937 feet; Pass of Nufenen, 8,003 feet; Pass of
Lukmanier, ti,290 feet.
64
894
SWITZERLAND.
be traced, only a few isolated rocks remaining as geological witnesses o£ a mountain
range which time has swept away.
The group of the Ticino is composed, for the most part, of the crystalline rocks
also met in the St. Gotthard It is more elevated than the latter, the Basodino
rising to a height of 10,649 feet, but only a small number of the other peaks
exceed 8,200 feet. Southern in aspect, and receiving a very considerable amount
of rain, the mountains of Ticino are worn and ravined more rapidly than any
others in Switzerland. Every peak there resembles a huge ruin, its sides eaten
into by the erosive action of water, and its foot encumbered with masses of fallen
rocks. Traces of ancient lakes are frequent, but the pent-up waters have long
Fig. 280. — Val Piora and the Lukmanieh.
Scale I : 100,000.
y .j-ct*""' Vv^~
, 1 Mile.
ago succeeded in sweeping away the obstacles which confined them. Elsewhere
the sites of villages buried beneath avalanches of rock are pointed out, and there
are some even which slid down the mountain slopes together with the soil upon
which they were standing. The "Cento Valli," which joins that of the Mitggia
a short distance ahove its embouchure into the Lago Maggiore, has been named
thus on account of its innumerable ravines and heaps of debris resulting from the
combined action of snow and rain. The torrents on the Italian side of the Alps
do greater mischief than those on the north, whose current is far more gentle ;
and, when in flood, they carry vast masses of rock down with them from the
mountains. But, in spite of this, the people of Ticino, intent merely upon a
present advantage, go on devastating the forests still covering their mountain
GENERAL ASPECTS.— THE ALPS.
895
slopes, thus removing the only obstacle to the mould being carried away by the
waters, and tlie country being changed into a wilderness. The life of the moun-
taineers is by no means an enviable one. Up on the mountains he has to
contend with a rigorous climate and a sterile soil ; down in the valley his houses
and fields are exposed to perpetual danger from floods.
There is, however, one portion of Italian Switzerland which is more favoured
by nature than the valleys debouching upon the Ticino. We refer to the
grotesquely shaped territory which advances like a wedge into Italy, and is known
as Sotto-Cenere, from the mountain range which shelters it from cold northerly
winds. This district is one of the most curious on account of the great variety
of its geological formations, for, in addition to granite, gneiss, red and black
porphyry, verrucano, and dolomite, we there meet with chalk, oolitic limestone,
and a variety of tertiary rocks. The slopes beneath the mountain pastures are
covered with oaks, beeches, walnut-trees, and cytisus. Groves of chestnut-trees
Fig. 281. — ^Thb Slope or thb VALLEirg South anp North of the St. Gotthaku.
Accoidin^ to Max Wirth.
Horizonha Boole 1 : 166,000. Vertioal Scale 1 : 1,155,000.
hide the villages scattered over the lower spurs and foot-hills. Lower still, the
terraces extending up the hillsides are planted with vines and mulberry-trees.
All is verdure there, except a few steep rocks mirrored in the waters of the
Ceresio. We have left far behind us the mountains of the north, and are, in
truth, in Italy.
But whilst the political boundaries of Switzerland extend in this manner fur
into Lombardy, (he Italian valley of the Toce takes us close to the St. Gotthard.
There, within a space hardly H miles across, the Toce, the Ticino, and the
Rhone take their rise and flow towards different points of the horizon. This
narrow mountain isthmus, continued in the Monte Leone and the other summits
of the Simplon, connects the St. Gdtlhard with the stupendous mountain masses
of the Monte Rosa and Mont Blanc. The ridges which connect these moun-
tain groups have evidently undergone a vast amount of degradation in a former
epoch of the history of our earth. Originally the main crest extended from the
St. Gotthard towards the south-west ; and an ideal line drawn in that direction
396
SWITZERLAND.
AND THK ToCE.
Scale 1 : 250,000.
actually passes througt several very elevated mountains, including those of the
Mischabel-Horner, the highest summits situated wholly upon Swiss soil. But
this ancient mountain crest, being formed of mica slate, limestone, and felspathic
rocks, not capable of offering a continued resistance to the action of water, was
speedily destroyed by the mountain torrents. The water-shed recoiled more and
more to the south, as far as the solid crystalline rocks of the Monte Rosa; and
the imposing masses of the Mischabel, which formerly rose upon the main crest,
look down now upon lateral valleys. Thus has the persistent action of water, con-
tinued for ages, succeeded in displacing the crest of an entire mountain system.
■Destructive agencies are still at work
Fig. 282. — The Sources of the Rhone, the Ticino, , ,•, i • • i j
amongst these mountain giants, and a
traveller passing along the valley of the
Rhone can scarcely fail to observe tlie
heaps of debris resulting from them.
Now and then the river is hemmed in
by accumulations of this kind, having
the appearance of veritable mountains.
On ascending them we find ourselves
face to face with gigantic amphitheatres
of erosion, carved out of the mountain
sides, and growing in size from year to
year, owing to the continued action of
snowand rain combined with frost. One
of the most remarkable of these amphi-
theatres is that known as the Illgraben.
It measures nearly 2 miles across, and
few volcanic craters can bear compari-
son with it. A similar amphitheatre
occupies the southern face of the beau-
tiful mountain of Pierre-a-Voie, thus
named on account of an ancient pil-
grim's path pav^ed with flagstones
which leads right up to its summit.
If we would form a just idea of the
extent to which the mountains in
that part' of Switzerland have been
demolished, we cannot do better than contemplate the jagged " Dents " du Midi
and of Morcles, which face each other on opposite banks of the Rhone The
magnificent portal opening between these mountains, rising to a height of
more than 10,000 feet, has been carved out of the solid rock by atmospheric
agencies alone. The mountain rampart which formerly connected these two
peaks, joining the Bernese Oberland to the main chain of the Alps, has been
swept away. The Dent du Midi is crumbling to pieces before our eyes. Frequently
after heavy rains or sudden thaws, or in consequence of earthquakes, cataracts of
2 Miles.
GENERAL ASPECTS.— THE ALPS.
807
rocks descend its flanks into fhe valleys, and sometimes these obstruct the course
of the Rhone, and would lead to disastrous inundations if labourers were not at
once hurried to the spot to clear away the obstruction, and to open a way to the
pent-up waters. In 1855 showers of stones fell for weeks and months, and
Fig. 283. — Amphitheatre of the Illohabeh.
Soale 1 : 80^000.
IMlle.
artillerymen were plawd upon a conspicuous promontory, who watched the
mountain and fired ofi" a gun whenever a rock detached itself from its summit,
thus giving timely warning to travellers and the inhabitants of the valley.
The valley of the Rhone, with its barren soil and tracts covered with pebbles
898
SWITZERLAND.
and swamps, would hardly lead us to expect that so much beauty should be hidden
in the valleys of the main chain of the Alps, which cliffs, hills of debris, and sudden
turns in the road conceal from view. We almost wonder how the inhabitants of
the mountain villages sire able to reach their homes, for many of their valleys are
so completely shut in that the wind is hardly felt there, storms are almost
unknown, and the quantity of rain is far less than in the wide valley of the Rhone.
But having once surmounted the obstacles presented by the mouths of these
Fig. 284. — The Matterhoun (Mont Cekvin).
Scale 1 : 150,000.
2 Miles.
valleys, where the rivulets escnpe through narrow gorges, we find ourselves in
quite another world.
Amongst the lateral valleys ascending towards the main range of the Alps
there are some to which groves of trees, small lakes, rivulets meandering amid
a carpet of flowers and a covering of turf, impart a character of privacy. Others
there are, of greater width, where the eye can range afar over barren mountain
summits, fields of snow, and glaciers. One of the most charming of the latter,
and, indeed, one of the most beautiful in the world, is the valley traversed
3
O
<
o
o
>
04
w
o
H
z;
o
GENERAL ASPECTS.— THE ALPS. 899
by the Visp of Zerraatt, where the beauty of the Alps is most fully revealed
to us. Beneath us spread verdant meadows and woods, with numerous
cottages scattered along the foot of the cliffs; above us rise snowy summits
glittering with ice. From the Gomergrat the eye ranges from the Matter-
horn (Mont Cervin) to Monte Rosa. At our feet we look upon a sea of ice,
from which rises the bold pyramid of the Matterhorn right in front of us,
its bare and sombre slopes, with a speck of snow here and there in a few cavities
of the rocks, contrasting most strikingly with the glittering white snow-fields
which environ them. Less elevated than Monte Rosa, but more imposing from its
isolated position, the Matterhorn is one of the great storm-breeders of the Alps.
The winds, refrigerated in their passage over fields of ice and snow, meet there the
warm aerial currents coming from the plains of Italy. The clouds at times
discharge themselves in snow ; at others they drift round the summit of the moun-
tain like smoke. But frequently, too, the Matterhorn reveals itself in all its
glory, standing out boldly against the deep blue sky, and then the paths which
mountain climbers desirous of reaching its top will have to follow can be traced
distinctly. There are other summits in the vicinity whoso precipices and glaciers
exercise a powerful attraction upon the members of our Alpine clubs, but, in spite
of the daring exhibited, some of them remain yet virgin ground.*
The range of the Bernese Alps, usually designated as the Bernese Oberland,
which faces the summits of Monte Rosa from beyond the depression of the valley
through which the Rhone takes its course, is likewise attached to the mountain
knot of the St. Gotthard, or, at all events, is only separated from it by the piss of
the Grimsel and the glacier which gives birth to the Rhone." The boldest summits
of the Oberland rise right opposite to the gap formed by the Simplon — that is, to
the north of where the southern chain is least elevated — whilst the summits facing
Monte Rosa are of inferior height. These mountains form a continuous chain,
the most regular in all Switzerland. Nor are they much inferior in height to the
mountains rising along the Italian frontier. The Finsteraarhorn, the Jungfrau,
and others amongst their summits are famous throughout the world ; whilst
Meyringen, Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, and Grindelwald exercise as great an
attraction upon the admirers of nature as does the valley of Zermatt. Looked at
from their base, or from the vantage-ground afforded by some promontory, these
mountain giants leave an impression upon the mind which fully ssitisfies our sense
of the beautiful. The bold contours of the mountain, the valleys at their foot,
the fields of snow and ice which hang upon their slopes, and the cascades to which
they give birth, combine themselves into a picture which, once beheld, impresses
itself indelilily upon the mind. The Jungfrau, the Wetterhorn (Stormy Peak),
and the Wellhorn can never again be forgotten.
The glaciers of the Bernese Oberland are the most extensive in the European .
Alps. From the valley of the Aar we may travel for a distance of 30 miles to
• Diifoiir I'liiik. till' luIininutiiiK summit of Monte Kosa, 1.0,21;) fuel ; MiBclmbcniorn (wliolly on SwIhb
soil), 14,937 feet; Muttorhorn (Mont Cervin), 14,701 fiut.
400
SWITZERLAND.
the west, as ftir as the Lotschen Pass, without once leaving the ice or the perennial
snow. Still more to the west, as far as the Dent de Morcles, not a mountain peak
is seen without a glacier descending from its slopes towards the pasture-grounds.
The largest of the glaciers, curiously enough, is met with on the southern slope of
these mountain masses, facing the sun. This glacier, the largest not only of the
Oberland, but of the whole of Europe, is that of the Aletsch. It is tributary to the
Rhone, and covers an area of nearly 40 square miles, M. Ch. Grad estimates it
to contain 40 milliards of cubic yards of ice, which, if it were to melt, would
Fig. 285.— Glaciers op the Bebnese Obehland.
Scale 1 : 160,000.
. 2 MilnH.
sustain the average volume of a river like the Seine for eighteen months. In
comparison with this formidable glacier, those on the northern slope of the Ober-
land are b>it of secondary importance. They do not present the same spectacle of
sublime calm, but being more rugged, and descending farther down their steep
valleys, they are more attractive to the beholder. They almost look as if they
flowed down from the mountain summits. Seen from below, their white or bluish
tints contrast with the green of the meadows and the forests. Sometimes they
almost invade fields and orchards, and the inhabitants of Grindolwald have seen
cherries ripen close to huge detached blocks of ice. The lower glacier of Grindel-
GENBEAL ASPECTS.— THE AJ.PS.
401
wald, though recently its end has been melting away, and it appears to be retiring
into the mountains, is still that amongst the glaciers of Switzerland which pene-
trates farthest towards the lowlands.
The glaciers of the Aar, at the eastern extremity of the Oberland, though
comparatively small and sometimes almost concealed beneath mud and stones,
possess an interest of their own. It was there the famous Agassiz, with some of his
friends, established himself during several summers in succession in order to watch
the phenomena of the glaciers. The rock which sheltered this band of conscien-
tious explorers, facetiously called the " Hotel des Neuchatelois," exists no longer.
It was incapable of resisting the persistent assaults made upon it by the glaciers.
Its fragments were precipitated upon the glacier, and are now descending upon its
Fig. 286. — The Glacier of the Blumlisalp.
Wilde Fran.
Blnmliealrstncir
back into the valley, to become in fhe end the prey of torrents which will triturate
them into sand. The spot where these important researches into the nature of
glaciers were instituted will always be hallowed to men of science.
The formidable schistose summits of the Oberland, which for a long time were
looked upon as ina<-ces8iblc, now form the goal of the more ambitious amongst our
Alpine climbers; but the limestone mountains to the west of them, and more
espcciallj' the advanced buttresses of the Faulhorn, the Niessen, and the Stockhom,
though less elevated, afford prospects of equal beauty. These were first visited by
tourists in the sixteenth century, and do not, consequently, exercise the same
attraction upon our modern tourists as the Jungfruu, the first ascent of which was
accompli si I fd in 1811. Standing upon one of these promontories, we are sus-
pended, as it were, between the valley and the snowy giants which tower above
65
402
SWITZERLAND.
it. At one glance we embrace the bold profile of fhe mountsiins, fields of snow,
glaciers, pastures and forests, smiling valleys, and placid blue lakes, either reflecting
the cliffs which bound them, or embedded in gardens and meadows. Equally
beautiful are the landscapes which present themselves to the tourist in the valley
of the Aar, whether near its head, where the torrent forms the fine waterfall of the
Handeck ; lower down in the delightful valley of Hasli, with its gushing cascades,
where the sculptured chalets of Meyringen nestle under the shelter of steep rocks ;
or lower down still, in the plain of the Boedeli, upon which rises Interluken, the
leading town of pleasure of entire Europe.
The mountains of the western Oberland consist almost entirely of oolitic lime-
Fig. 287.— The Diablekets.
Scale 1 : 100,000.
7 ■lob. of Op.
1 Mile.
stone and chalk, capable of offering but small resistance to the combined chemical
and mechanical action of water, and are fast crumbling to pieces, producing in
their decay some of the most magnificent spectacles to be witnessed in the Alps.
Two of the jagged grey " teeth " of the Diablerets, a group rising superbly above
the green pasture-binds, detached themselves in the last century, and tumbled down
into the valley of Deborence, 6,000 feet beneath, where their broken fragments now
cover an area of several square miles. Similar catastrophes have evidently occurred
farther north, but in so remote a time that no tradition respecting them survives
amongst the inhabitants of the country. The huge circular viilley known as the
GENERAL ASPECTS.— THE ALPS. 403
Creux-du-Cliamp may be likened to a gigantic punch-bowl, not unlike in its shape
to the famous amphitheatre of Gavarnie, in the Pyrenees. Like the latter, it forms
a natural fortress of great strength, being surrounded on all sides by cliflPs rising
in terraces, and surmounted by extensive glaciers, from which descend numerous
cascades.
In the north and west the Bernese Alps ramify into numerous spurs and sub-
sidiary chains, which gradually sink down into the plain. This is one of the great
pasturing regions of Switzerland, the grass and herbage on these calcareous hills
being most savoury. It is, too, a region of flowers. In spring the slopes of the
mountains of Montreux are covered with narcissi, which are visible from a distance
of 15 miles. An inexperienced traveller, on first seeing these carpets of flowers
from afar, might be inclined to mistake them for particles of snow forgotten by the
sun. Their odour, wafted by the wind to a considerable distance, is no less
penetrating than that of the orange groves on the coast of Sicily.*
Once more returning to the St. Gotthard as to the natural centre of the Swiss
Alps, we perceive a distinct mass of mountains to the north-east of those of the
Oberland, and on the same axis. This group gives birth to the glacier of the
Rhone. Its principal summit is the Dammastock, rising in the midst of glaciers,
and a range extends from it in a northerly direction. In these ranges rise some of
the most glorious summits of Switzerland, such as the Titlis, with its vast pasture-
grounds, and the Uri-Rothstock, bounded on all sides by steep precipices. These
mountains of Unterwalden and Uri are formed of granite, oolitic limestone,
chalk, and strata of eocene age. They ramify in the most extraordinary manner
the labyrinthine Lake of the Four Cantons (see Fig. 324), being their exact
count«rp.irt. The summits, which rise to the north of the lake, appear to have
formed part of the same mountain system at some former period. The principal
summit is the Rigi, the most famous and most frequented Belvedere in the world.
This mountain, rising in solitary grandeur from the lakes and plains lying at its
foot, and aflibrding a magnificent prospect of the snowy summits towards the east
and south, forms, in truth, an admirable natural observatory, and tens of thousands of
travellers are attracted to it annually. Railways not only convey these visitors to
its summit, but also to many favourite points of view. In summer the top of this
mountain exhibits more animation than many a town, and the telegraph wires
which connect the numerous hotels with the dwellers in the plain are incessantly
at work.t The Rigi is the first mountain in Europe which the engineers have
rendered accessible by means of a railway, but it is no longer the only one.
Sooner or later, all those mountains in Switzerland which annually attract crowds
of tourists will be treated similarly, and Moi^nt Pilatus, the ancient Fract-Mont,
• Altitiidrsin the Bernese Obrrlan'l fin feet) :- ST .in range; Finsteranrhom, 14,028; Junf^frau, 13,671;.
Moneh, lH.4;i9; Sehreckhom, 1.3,386; Diablerets, 10,067. Outliers: Faulhom, 8,800; Niesen, 7,760;
Stockhorn, 7,100.
+ In 1.S76 there were thirteen tclefrraph offices on the top of the Rigi. The season of 1878 is supposed
to have jirovod liisiistrous to several of tlie proprietors of hotels, the number of travellers having been very
■mall, owing to the commercial crisis in Uermany.
404 SWITZERLAND.
whose craggy points are visible to the south of Luzern, is sure to have its railway
at an early date.*
The Rigi covers an area of about 15 square miles, and is formed almost solely
of nagelfluh ; that is, a soft conglomerate enclosing an immense number of pebbles,
derived, not from the Alps, but from the Black Forest, and carried thither and
deposited in regular layers during the miocene period. The Rossberg, to tho
north of the Rigi, belongs to the same formations. It has become widely known
through a landslip which occurred in 1806, when 52,000,000 cubic yards of rock
slid down the mountain side, burying the villuge of Goldau, with its smiling fields,
and filling up a portion of the Lake of Lowerz.t
The mountain mass of the Todi, to the east of the valley of the Reuss, forms
with the mountains of the Rhone that region of Switzerland which exhibits the
most extensive traces of geological disturbance. The contortion and inversion of
the strata are more considerable there than in any other pirt of the world hitherto
examined by geologists. From the Gliirnisch to the Hausstock, a distance of
10 miles, the beds have been uplifted and bent back in such a way that the lower
beds rest apparently upon those which were originally deposited upon them, and
the lower appears to be the higher part of the series. Similar features may be
observed also in the valley of the Rhine beyond the Glarnisch. A most remark-
able instance is aiForded by the Windgiille, a mountain rising above the valley
of Altorf. Upon its summit it bears a cap of porphyry, which has not been
erupted, as Studer supposed, but has been uplifted by lateral pressure, together
with the limestone beds upon which it reposes. The mountains to the north of
the Todi are formed, like those of Uuterwalden, of Jurassic and cretaceous rocks.
Tertiary slates, locally known as flysch, are also met with ; and these must have
been deposited in a sea of considerable depth, for they abound in fossils of fish,
but are altogether devoid of fossil molluscs and sea-urchins. The mountains
belonging to this formation have gentle slopes, and their valleys are of exceeding
fertility. The limestones, on the other hand, frequently form vertical cliffs.
The Glarnisch, which rises in terraces above the town of Glarus, still belongs to
the Alps, for glaciers descend from its upper slopes. They are the northernmost
of Central Switzerland. Others, still farther to the north, are met with in the
range which extends from the Todi towards the north-e ist, and terminate above
Chur, in Mount Calanda, famous on account of its crumpling rocks. That moun-
tain is formed of fissured dolomite, resting upin bels of soft rock, incapable of
resisting the action of denudation. The waste washed down from the mountain
has formed huge sloping mounds at the foot of the cliffs, which constitute a
characteristic feature of the landscape. Landslips are of frequent occurrence.
One of these partially destroyed the village of Felsberg, at the foot of the
Calanda. The inhabitants built themselves another village at a spot not menaced
* According to Gatschet the name of Pilatus is derived from the old German word hUlota ; that is,
" split mountain." Popular legends connect it with Pontius Pilate, whose spirit is said to haunt a small
lake near the summit.
+ Altitudes in feet :—Dammastoek, 11,937; Rhoncstock, 11,822; Galenstock, 11,805; Titlis, 10,628;
Uri-Rothstock, 9,610; Pilatus, 6,792 ; Rigi, 5,900 ; Rossberg, 6,190.
GENERAL ASPECTS.— THE ALPS.
406
by falling rocks, but finding the situation too much exposed, they have returned
to their old village, preferring to run the risk of a possible disaster rather than
submit to an ever-present inconvenience.*
The Calanda has been the goal of mountain climbers for centuries past. The
mountains of St. Grail and Appenzell, which occupy the north-eastern corner of
Switzerland, enclosed between the Rhine and the Lake of Constance, have proved
equally attractive to admirers of nature on account of the fine prospects which
may be enjoyed from their summits. One of them, the Speer (6,418 feet), is
formed of the same conglomerate as the Rigi. Another, the famous Sentis (8,213
feet), is justly admired for its fine buttresses, sweet pastures, piled-up rock
masses, and small lakes hidden away in its upper valleys. Farther to the south,
the jagged crest of the Churfirsten (7,554 feet), as seen from the shore of the
Fig. 288. — The Inverted Strata of the WiNDOiLLB.
According to A. Hein.
Ssa^iL
f»Vo#« tPini.'ffntte
10363 fiTinten
'E3 Eix-me < """''"o" of Tnmimat
fpper Jura
Lautr Jura
Ttititinit
CarhoniferoUM
Wallen L-ike, presents a truly formidable appearance, So precipitously do the
rocks rise from the lake th it a site for only a single village could be found a,t
their foot.
The chiiolic mountains of the Orisons, cut up as they are by innumerable
gorges and valleys, almost defy classification. Their geological structure is most
complicated ; their crests more sinuous than elsewhere in Switzerland ; and the
two hundred valleys and their ramification's form a veritable labyrinth. Yet
these moiintains, too, are joined to the central group of the St. Gottbard, and that
by one of the boldest and most formidable mountain masses of Switzerland, the'
granitic pinnacles of which form the culminating points between the valleys of
• Altitudcn in English feet :— Todi, 11,887 ; Haiustock, 10,355 ; Glamia.h, 9,564 ; Calanda, 9,210.
406
SWITZERLAND.
the Reuss and of the Inn. This group of the Adula, which alone of all the
mountains of the Central Alps retains its ancient name, is partly buried beneath
glaciers which feed the Further Rhine (Hinter Rhcin). Other mountains of
great height, likewise bearing glaciers upon their shoulders, continue the principal
crest which bounds the upper valleys of the Rhine in the south.
Beyond we enter a natural region of the Alps which lies within the basin of
the Danube. The deep depression through which the Inn flows towards the
north-east, and which is separated from the head- waters of the Adda by no
marked natural feature, forms one of the most curious breaks in the system of
the Alps. Bounded on either side by irregularly grouped mountains, some of
Fig. 289. — The Group op the Beunina.
Scale 1 : 30.1,000.
, 6 Miles.
them naked rocks, others covered with perennial snow and ice, this depression,
for a distance of over 10 miles, is almost horizontal. The waters collect there in
lakes, and it needed but the removal of a few yards of ground to divert the head-
waters of the Inn into the Italian valley of Bregaglia. This " gap " of the upper
Engadin is remarkable, too, on account of its direction. Unlike most other passes,
which cross the main crest at right angles, it has the siime direction as the axis
of the Swiss Alps, and coincides with the limits between different geological
formations.
One of the grand mountain masses of Europe, that of the Bernina, rises in the
Engadin immediately to the east of the head-waters of the Inn. This group of
GENERA.L ASPECTS.— THE ALPS.
407
mountains, with its boldly contoured granitic rocks, and its glaciers creeping low
down into the valleys, may fairly challenge comparison with the mountains of the
Oberland ; and neither forests nor verdant pastures, sparkling cascades nor placid
lakes are wanting to produce a picture of great beauty. The prospect from the
culminating points of the Bernina are all the more highly spoken of as only
expert climbers are able to enjoy them. Standing upon the Roseg or the Morte-
Pig. 290.^ — The Glaciers of Tschierva and Moeteratbch.
According to Ziegler. Scale 1 : 100,000.
ratsch, the eye embraces at a glance fields of snow and ice extending for 20
miles from east to west, and we are able to trace the crystal streams to which the
glaciers give birth. But the view afforded by the isolated, summits which face
the glaciers to the north of the deep valley of Pontresina is far superior..
Stationed on the summit of the Piz Languard (" Long Regard "), we see spread out
before us not only the entire group of the Berniua, the mountains of the Grisons,
of the Tyrol, and of Northern Switzerland, but far beyond the. St. Gotthard we
408 SWITZEKLAND.
perceive Monte Rosa and the hazy outline of the French Alps. A panorama of
almost equal extent may be enjoyed from, the Piz Linard, which rises to the north
on the other side of the Inn, and on the confines of the Austrian Vorarlberg.
This mountain belongs to the group of the Selvretta, which is geologically
interesting on account of the great variety of its rocks, which embrace nearly all
formations, from gneiss and crystalline slates to sedimentary deposits of eocene age.
We even meet there with springs of carbonic acid gas — near Tarasp, in thevallev
of the Inn — the only springs of that kind hitherto discovered in such a locality,
for they do not rise from a bed of lava, but from decomposed schists, and commu-
nicate probably with the acidulous springs which rise lower down in the valley.
The bodies of numerous small animals are found near the poisonous springs.
Earthquakes |frequently occur in the Engadin, but not as often as in the other two
earthquake districts of Switzerland, viz. in the valley of the Visp, at the foot of
Monte Rosa, and in the environs of Eglisau, between Schaff hausen and the mouth
of the Aar.*
The Central Alps attain their greatest height and most considerable width in
the Grisons and in the neighbouring Tyrol. They neither form a mountain-
chain there nor a number of detached masses lying in the same axis, but form a
veritable plateau, from which rise separate groups and numerous ranges ramifying
in the most puzzling manner. All that portion of Switzerland which lies to the
east of the Rhine rises from a platform no less than 3,200 feet in height, even in
the valleys, and the mountain ranges extend thence into Germany and Italy.
The contrast between Eastern and Western Switzerland is indeed most strikins,
for the latter does not lie within the region of the Alps at all, and is bounded, not
by an entangled mass of mountains like that of the Grisons, but by a succession
of parallel ridges separated from each other by longitudinal valleys.
• Heights of the mountains in the Grisons: — Piz Valrin (Adula group), 11,139 feet; Bemina,
13,294 feet; Roseg, 12,-557feet; Jlorteratsch, 12,317 feet; Languard, 10,717 feet ; Tiz Linard, 11,210 feet.
CHAPTER II.
THE JURA."
HE parallel ranges of the Jura form but a secondary mountain
system in comparison with the snow-clad Alps. Nevertheless
they are an important feature in the general geography of Europe,
and by their influence upon the climate, the flow of rivers, and
the distribution of the population, they have plaj'ed a prominent
part in history. ,
In Switzerland the contrast between these two niountiin systems, the Alps and
the Jura, is most striking. Standing upon the plain which separates them, we
look, on the one hand, upon the serrated chain of the Bernese Oberland, upon
verdant slopes extending up to the snow-fields and glaciers, and, in spite of the
great distance, are able to distinguish the varied hues presented by barren rocks,
snow, meadows, and forests. The foot-hills present the greatest variety in their
slope and height ; and wide cultivated valleys, penetrating far into the mountain
recesses, and dott: d over with towns and villages, still further enliven the picture.
Turning round towards the Jura, we find ourselves face to face with a steep and
uniform slope. Towns and villages form a thin white streak along its foot ; fields
and vineyards occupy the lower slopes ; and sombre pine woods cover all above up
to the bluish pasture-grounds in the far-oflf distance. A few rocky crefs here
and there rise above the long-stretched backs of the mountains, but they do not
break the monotonous appearance of the chain. Some of these ranges, seen from
a distance, appear to be of uniform height for miles ; but if we penetrate through
one of the gorges scooped out by torrents, and scarcely visible from the plain, we
are surprised to find ourselves in delightful valleys.
It is only towards Switzerland that the Jura presents itself as an apparently
unbroken rampart. On the French side the mountains are not only lower, but
they are also far more irregular in their outline. True the culminating points of
the chain rise to the south, entirely within the French territory, but the Swiss
summits are little inferior to them in height, and the general elevation of the
• Jacard, " Description du Jura Neuchatelois etVaudois;" A. Vezian, " Ktudcs Geologiques Bur le
Jura."
410
SWITZEELAND.
mountains is more considerable. Between Besancon and Neuchatel the parallel
ridges of the Jura increase in height as we proceed from west to east, and the
highest amongst them forms a rampart bounding the plain of Switzerland. But
to the north of Solothura the ridges gradually grow lower, until their height
hardly exceeds 2,000 feet. To the east of the Aar the Jura is represented by the
small ridge of the Lagern, whilst beyond the Rhine, near Schaffhausen, it rises
once more in the Randen group, and then gradually merges into the plateau of
the Rauhe Alp.*
The Swiss Jura presents all those features which we have already noticed in
connection with the French Jura — elongated valleys separated by parallel ridges,
" combs," and gorges connecting one valley with the other. These features in
Kg. 291.— The Valley of Tkavers.
Scale 1 : 170,000.
Eof P
2 Mae
combination produce picturesque scenery of astonishing variety. All the depres-
sions are old lake basins, which were still covered with water during miocene
ages. The valley of Travers, now drained by the Reuse, or Areuse, a tributary
of the Lake of Neuchatel, is an instance in point. It receives the torrents descend-
ing the terraced slopes of the " comb," or amphitheatre, of St Sulpice at its upper
end, and appears to terminate at the foot of a cliff which shuts it in on the east.
But the slow erosive action of the water has overcome this obstacle. The river is
now able to escape through a narrow gorge, its waters rushing headlong far
beneath the railway suspended upon the flank of the mountains. All at once we
perceive on our right a vast crater-shaped amphitheatre, known as the Creux-du-
• Altitudes of the Jura (in English feet) :— Jlont Tendre, 5,612 ; Mont Dole, 5,506 ; Chasseron, 5,286 ;
Chaaseral, 5,280; Weissenstcin, 4, 80; Lagern, 2,827.
THE JURA.
411
Vent, or " "Windy Pit." A geological examination of the ground shows that this
is a fallen-in cavity, or comb, such as are frequently met with in all limestone
districts, which now communicates with the gorge of the Reuse. Widely different
is the aspect of a valley to the north of that of Travers. No running water
enlivens it now, its bottom being occupied by a swamp and bog. Thus, in a
district of circumscribed area, we are able to study a valley still vivitied by
running waters, a " dead " valley.
Fig. 292.— The Cluse of UndeiiVeliek.
Scale 1 : 45,000.
Wi3 E of P«ms
a fallen-in comb, and the tortuous
defile of a " cluse."
In many other parts of the Swiss
Jura the parallel mountain ram-
parts are pierced by cluses, bounded
either by steep escarpments or by
vast amphitheatres, and which per-
mit the waters of the upper valleys
to escape. Gorges of this kind con-
ntct Biel (Bieiine) with the valley
of St. Imier, the valley of Court
with that of Undervelier, and, above
all, the grand cluse of the Doubs,
through which that river turns back
upon itself, and finds its way into the
Saone and the Mediterranean, in-
stead of maintaining its original
direction and flowing to the Rhine.
There are even some clu.ses in an
incomplete state, to which man has
put the finishing band. One of
these is the gorge of Pierre-Pertuis.
Nature had nearly accomplished her
work there when the Romans over-
came the remaining obstacles by
means of a tunnel, which is still used
by travellers.
Except in winter or early spring
the Jura does not present us with
those contrasts between snow and
verdure which form so attractive
a feature of the Alps. There are,
however, magnificent forests of fir trees, which are said to have given the
mountains their name, the meaning of which is supposed to be " forbidden
woods." There is likewise an abundance of fine pasturage, reaching down to
the margins of the small Likes which occupy some of the valley bottoms. These
lakes, for the most part very shallow, are in many instances being invaded
Forest
IMlle.
412
SWITZERLAND.
by bogs, and several have disappeared entirely, their water having been sucked
up, as it were, by the moss and other thirsty plants which grow along their
banks.
The rain which fulls upon the Jura not only fills the lakes and surface torrents,
but a considerable portion of it tinds its way through creux (pits) and emposieux
into underground channels and caverns, and reappears again at the foot of the
mountains. The most remarkable of these subterranean rivers is the Orbe, the
most important tributary of the Rhine, having its sources in the Jura. The
Orbe rises in France, in the small Lake of Rousses ; lower down it traverses two
Fig. 293. — Meandeuinos op the Doubs at St. Ursannb.
Scale 1 : 50,000.
^t.
<>?Sii'E.of P«rU
It-ii
lo El of Gv.
i IMUe.
other lakes on Swiss territory, those of Joux and Brenet ; and then, at the base of
high cliffs, it rushes into a cavern, only to appear again 2 miles farther to the
north-east, and 735 feet below the point where it disappeared. Its volume then is
sufficient to turn all the mills of the manufacturing village of Vallorbe.
The whole of the surface drainage of the plateau of Fonts, to the north of the
Reuse, is swallowed up by sinks, and reappears, 900 feet below, in the springs
known as Noiraigue. Elsewhere springs no sooner mount to the surface than they
disappear again, and the rivulets to which they give rise alternately flow on the
surface and through underground channels. Of this kind are the rivulets which
THE JUEA.
418
converge upon the sink known as Creux-Genat, in the environs of Porrentruy.
Many of these subterranean channels feed the Lakes of Neuchatel and Bienne
through springs rising from the bottom of these lakes. The localities where these
lacustrine springs make their appearance are well known to huntsmen and fisher-
Fig. 294. — The Lake of Joux.
Scale 1 : 400,000.
, S MUeii.
raen, for in winter, when the remainder of the lake is covered with ice, the water
immediately above them continues open. Fish and wild fowl abound there, and
hence they are known as entner, or duck pools. If the level of the lakes were
to fall, these springs would give rise to rivulets.
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CHAPTER III.
GLACIAL PERIOD.*
HE Jura, which affords so many opportunities for studying geo-
logical and hydrographical problems, furnishes likewise the most
decisive proof of the vast extension of the glaciers in a former
age. When exploring these mountains scientific men obtained
the first glimpse of an age in which a great portion of Europe
was covered with a cap of ice.
The Jura itself had its valley glaciers, which carried down blocks of rock to a
lower level ; but in addition to these rocks, which are clearly derived from the
Jura itself, we meet with others on its eastern slope which are as certainly of a
different origin. Formerly geologists were perplexed when asked to account for
the presence of these prodigious masses of rock. Were they ruins of mountains
no longer in existence ? or had they been carried thither from the Alps, in spite of
their being at a distance of 120 miles ? We now know that the latter hypothesis
was the correct one. These enormous erratic blocks have really been carried
down the Alps, and we are even able, in many instances, to point out the locality
whence they have been derived and the route which they followed. This mass
of granite, we are able to say, came hither from the Monte Rosa ; that block of
mica schist tumbled down the sides of the St. Gotthard. Formerly the whole of
the northern slope of the Alps was bounded by a vast sheet of ice, formed by the
confluence of five glaciers, which filled up the valleys now drained by the Rhone,
the Aar, the Reuss, the Linth, and the Rhine. The blocks of rock which tumbled
down from the mountain-tops slowly travelled with these glaciers down the valley.
They were carried over the plains and the cavities now converted into lakes, and
would have been carried beyond the frontiers of Switzerland had not the trans-
versal chain of the Jura interposed a barrier. It was upon its slopes they dropped
when the glaciers melted away, and there we find them still, after hundreds and
perhaps thousands of centuries. Some of the blocks carried by the Rhone glaciers
• Oswald Heer, " Le Mondo Trimitif de la Suisse ; " Arnold Guvot, in H/i/l. de la Soeiete des
Sciences Naturellm de NeneUtel ; ViolIet-le-Duc, " Le Massif du Mont Blanc ; " J. TyndaU, " The Glaciers
of the Alps ; " Studer, " Ueher Schuec und Eis."
GLACIAL PERIOD. 416
have been deposited upon the flanks of Mont Chasseron, at a height of 4,600 feet
above the sea. It was there, right opposite to Martigny and Villeneuve, at the
entrance to the Rhone valley, that the central stream of the Rhone glacier struck
the Jura ; and on either side of the Chasseron, whether we proceed north or south,
the height at which erratic blocks are met with gradually decreases. Some of
these blocks have a volume of 170,000 cubic feet, and are quarried as building
stones.
Erratic blocks of this kind are not only met with on the slope of the Jura,
upon which the ancient glaciers impinged, but also along the slopes of all the
Alpine valleys down which they formerly crept. Blocks of enormous size may
be seen in the valleys of the Limmat, the Reuss, and the Aar. The Luegiboden,
near Interlaken, is nothing but a huge erratic block of granite, having still a
volume of 460,000 cubic feet, although much of it has been carried away by
quarrymen, including a block forwarded to America to serve as the pedestal of a
monument to Washington. The erratic rock, known as bloc moimtre, on the
hill of Montel, near Bex, above the valley of the Rhone, has a volume of no less
than 530,000 cubic feet. Many of these glacier-borne rocks have been deposited
on the banks of the Lake of Geneva, and close to that town there is one of huge
size known as the Pierre a Niton. The Romans probably consecrated that rock
to Neptune, and in our own days it has been converted into a gauge for registering
the oscillations of the lake. But what is the volume of these huge blocks in com-
parison with that of the pebbles, the sand, and the mud carried down the hills by
these ancient glaciers, and further distributed by the floods when they melted
away ? Most of the rocks and the soil removed whilst the existing volleys were
being scooped out by the glaciers have been deposited upon the wide plains below
them. Sometimes the glaciers melted so rapidly as to carry away the soil in
streams of mud, similar in all respects to those which descend from some of the
volcanoes of the Andes whenever a subterranean lake bursts its bonds. Pieces of
ice were in every instance carried along with the mud, and the cavities which
they filled have been discovered in the hardened conglomerate into which age has
changed the mud. These rivers of mud sometimes filled up whole valleys to
the brim. Below Sembrancher, in the valley of the Dranse, the mud rose to a
height of 1,400 feet, as proved by the traces of it still existing upon the sides of
the valley. But this enormous liquid mass at length burst the rocky barrier,
stretching across the valley from the superb pyramid of Catogne to the mountain
of Vence, and, when liberated, it inundated the lower portion of the valley.
The ancient moraines of valley glaciers, though in reality far less important
witnesses to glacial action than the horizontal strata to which they gave birth,
nevertheless more frequently attract attention on account of their uneven surface
and the prominent part they play in the scenery of the country. The valley of the
Limmat is traversed by no less than six ancient terminal moraines, one of which
crosses the Lake of Ziirich opposite Rapperswyl, and has been made use of in the
construction of a bridge 0,2.J0 feet in length. Zurich itself is built upon an
ancient moraine, and so are several other towns at the lower end of lakes, and
416
SWITZERLAND.
even some in the plain, including a portion of Bern, the capital of Switzerland.
The interesting district to the north-west of Luzern, which a flood would convert
into parallel islands, and where are the Lakes of Sempach, Boldegg, and Hallwyl,
and the swampy grounds crossed by the Reuss, exhibit many traces of an iuva-
Fig. 29S.— The Catogne.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
'+*? \b' E.ofPai-in
4
f|6.
66'E. of Cp
1 Mile.
sion of glacial nnid. The scenery and aspect of a considerable portion of the
rugged plain which separates the Alps from the Jura are due to ancient moraines.
There these accumulations of stones no longer present the chaotic appearance of
former days. Their surface now is covered with soil, and they nearly all are
clothed with woods, forming a most charming contrast v/iih the lakes which scpa-
GLACIAL PEEIOD.
417
rate them, with the rivulets winding along their foot, and with the cultivated fields
surrounding the villages. The charming scenery at the lower ends of the Lakes
of Thun, Ziirich, and Bienne (Biel) is the outcome of the diversities of contour
resulting from the passage of ancient glaciers.
The flora of this region of moraines proves that a remarkable change took
place in the climate when the ice invaded the country. The ocean still covered
the plain between the Alps and the Jura during the miocene age. The sandstones
and pebbly conglomerates deposited at that time are rich in species of plants and
Fig. 296. — The Ancient Glaciers of Eastern Switzerland.
If'ryMtaHine [ l/v;„i.,ry
laciert
animals, whose presence proves to us that the mean temperature must then have
varied between 64° and 68° Fahr. To this climate of Louisiana or Florida su';-
ceeded one analogous to that of Greenland. The Alpine plants, which are the
same as those of Lapland, descended from the .mountain summits into the valleys,
and from the latter into the plain, and they are found now throughout Switzerland
as far as erratic blocks are met with, their limit coinciding in a most remarkable
manner with a flora of arctic aspect. M. Martins, who bus more especially studied
the vegetation of the Arctic regions and of tlie Alps, tells us that the aspect of
the valley of Fonts, in the Jura of Ncuchatel, and at an elevation of 3,300 feet
66
418 8WITZEELAND.
above the sea, recalls certain portions of Lapland. But then the Alpine flora of
that valley grows upon glacial mud carried hither from the Alps.
These vestiges of the past — erratic blocks, glacial mud, and Alpine plants —
have enabled geologists to draw a map indicating the ancient glaciers. The most
important among them was that of the Rhone. It filled up the basin of the Lake
of Geneva, covered the plain of Switzerland to a depth of more than 3,000 feet,
and extended north as far as what is now known as the Aargau, where it was
joined by the glacier of the Aar. But it did not penetrate the Alps of Fribourg,
which had their own sj'stem of glaciers. The erratic blocks deposited within this
wide area have mostly been traced to that portion of the Alpine chain which
extends from the St. Bernard to the Simplon. The glaciers of the Eeuss and of
the Linth likewise extended to the barrier of the Jura, but only at its eastern
extremity, whilst the glacier of the valley of the Rhine spread itself over a con-
siderable portion of Southern Germany. Glaciers of vast extent likewise crept
down the Italian slope of the Alps, filling up, wholly or in part, the existing lakes.
The Lake of Lugano, like that of Ziirich, is divided into two portions by an ancient
terminal moraine, which the retiring glacier left behind, and which is used now
as a road.
CHAPTER IV.
RIVERS AND LAKES.'
If comparison with the glaciers of a former age, the geological
reconstruction of which has led the way to other discoveries con-
nected with the history of our earth, the glaciers of the present
day are of small account. They hardly cover more than 5 per
cent, of the total area of the country, and their average thickness is
certainly small compared with that of the ancient glaciers which made Switzerland
another Greenland. Still, if there were to occur a sudden cessation of rain, and
if these glaciers, which now hang like huge reservoirs above the rest of Europe,
were to be melted to keep up the present volume of the rivers rising in Switzer-
land, the supply would suffice only for five years, even though we estimated them
to have an average thickness of '500 feet.f
But it is well known that the difference in bulk which a glacier exhibits in
summer and winter is relatively small, and that, rivers and lakes are in the main
dependent upon rain and melting snows for their supply of water, which they
obtain either indirectly through springs, or directly through avalanches and surface
drainage. The most important river of Switzerland, as respects the area of its
catchment basin, is the Ticino, or Tessin, which is to a less extent fed by glaciers
than any other river of the country. Though its principal valley is culled
Bedrette, which is synonymous with " glacier valley," the streams of ice which
descend into it melt awaj' before the mid-day sim. After heavy rains the volume
of the Ticino, measured above where it enters the Lago Muggiore, has reached
150,000 and even 200,000 cubic feet a second (the average throughout the year
being only 3,700 cubic feet), and it is then a river twice as powerful as the Rhone
at the forks of Arches. The Verzasca is likewise a large river. After leaving
• Rutimeyer, "Thai- u. Seehildnng;" Studcr, "Geschiehtu der Phj-sischen Geographie der Schweiz."
t A Government Comniission (in 1S71) computed the area covered by glaciers at 8091 square niiles,^
viz. 390-3 »<iiiare miles in the basin of the Uhone. 2S9G square miles in the basin of tlio Kliine, 706 square'
mile« in the basin of the Inn, iind 4S 6 square miles in the basin of the Po.
An offirrial statement pulilished in 1S78 gives lower figures, viz. 710 square miles for the whole of
Switzcrlaiiil, 375 for the cimtoa of Waliis ( Valaia), 138 for the canton of the Orisons, 103 for that of Bern,
44 for Uri, &c.
420
SWITZERLAND.
its wild gorge it spreads over a bed of gravel, which it pushes far into the lake, in
front of the mouth of the Ticiuo. The Maggia, on the other side of the lake, is
ordinarily a river like the Adour, but when in flood it may well bear comparison
with the mighty Rhone.* The alluvium brought down by these three rivers is
rapidly silting up the upper end of the lake. A comparison of ancient documents
with our most recent maps would appear to show that this silting up, aided, no
doubt, by the devastation of the forests which formerly clad the mountain slopes,
is proceeding at an increasing rate. Seven hundred years ago the village of
Gordola was the principal port on the upper part of the lake ; it is at present hardly
a mile from its shore ; whilst the new port of Magadino has to be shifted every
ten years, the shore of the lake flying it almost visibly. The port of Locarno,
close to the delta formed by the Maggia, has to be perpetually dredged, at a
Rg. 297. — The Upper End of the Lago Maqoioke.
Scale 1 : li)O,00O.
. 1 Mile.
considerable expense, for the sand is for ever invading it. If we assume thut
the matter held in suspension by the three rivers, the Ticiiio, the Verzasca, and
the Maggia, and annually deposited in the Like, amounts to the one-thousandth part
of their entire volume, the Bay of Locarno, in spite of its depth of 160 feet, will
be silted up in the course of three hundred and fifty years, and the three rivers,
then united into one, will be able to invade the lower portion of the lake. The
alluvium deposited by these rivers remains injurious to he;ilth as long as it has not
been turned over by the hoe or the plough. In summer the swampy plain of the
Lower Ticino exhales deadly miasmata, and the inhabitants of several villages are
at that time obliged to fly to the cabins they have in the mountain valleys.
• Average volume :—Titino (Teasin), 3,700 cubic feet; Verzasca, 333 cubic feet; Jluggia, 2,200 cubic
feet.
EIVEES AND LAKES.
421
Far more salubrious are the shores of the Cerisio, or Lake of Lugano, a double
basin, within which the two ancient glaciers of the Ticino and the Adda formerly
united into a single river. When the glaciers retired the basin of the Cerisio
was left with but a few inconsiderable affluents. The alluvium brought down by
them from the mountains is only of trifling quantity, and the lake shrinks conse-
quently very slowly. This lake, not being subjected to sudden floods, might easily
Fig. 298.— The Lakes op LnoANo and Como.
Scale 1 : 250,000.
6Milea
bp transformed into a huge reservoir, whene^ the neighbouring fields of Lombardy
might be irrigated. Signor Villoresi, an Italian engineer, has proposed to connect
it by means of a tunnel, only 2 miles in length, with the Lake of Como, and to
convert the biffcr into a basin of distribution, whence the water would be conveyed
to the sterile Iiinds of the Sonima. The water available for such a purpose has
been estimated at between 5G0 and 1,120 cubic feet, according to the season.
422
SWITZEELAND.
If the Ticino is fed only in a small measure by melting ice, sucli is not the case
with respect to the Rhone, which has more extensive glaciers in its upper valley
than any other river of Europe. The glaciers occupy nearly one-half the total
area of those of all Switzerland, and the ice river of the Aletsch, as well as the ice
streams creeping down the slopes of Monte Rosa, is without a rival. The Rhone
glacier, properly so called, is not only of considerable extent, but it is also much
admired for its natural beauties, more especially on account of its terminal face,
furrowed by huge crevasses. Formerly it was bounded only by nuked rocks and
Fig. 299. — The Aletsch Glaciek.
Scale 1 : 100.000.
1 Mile.
turf, but M. Gosset has planted its banks with Scandinavian trees, and a forest may
be seen in close proximity to the ice. From this frozen river issues a small torrent,
which is usually regarded as the head of the Rhone. The mountaineers, how-
ever, do not look upon the glacier as the veritable source of the Rhone ; they
derive that river from a small tepid spring which rises at the foot of a neighbour-
ing rock. In addition to the Rhone glacier there are two hundred and sixty others
which regulate the flow of the river, for it is precisely in summer, when the rain-
fall is least and the evaporation greatest, that the ice melts most rapidly. Some-
I
RIVERS AND LAKES. 428
times, however, these glaciers themselves give rise to floods. Some of the upper
side valleys are closed in by natural dams, formed of moraines and fragments of
ice. The water accumulated behind these barriers, when it bursts them, rushes
down the valley, carrying fragments of stone, houses, and trees before it, and
denuding the fields of their arable soil. In order to prevent the recurrence of
such floods it has been found necessary to pierce these dams, so that the water
may escape. The small Lake of Moeril, or Merjelen, on the eastern side of the
Aletsch glacier, from which it is separated by a lateral moraine, has been treated
in this manner, and it has since remained permanently at the same level.
The Dranse, which joins the Rhone where it abruptly changes its direction
before entering the gorge of St. Maurice, was blocked up by the glacier of Gretroz
in 1818. Its upper valley was converted into a lake, and, when the pent-up waters
at length liberated themselves, they produced one of the most disastrous. floods
known in connection with the Rhone valley. Immediately on issuing from the
rock-bound gorge referred to, the Rhone enters upon an alluvial plain, formerly
covered by the Lake of Geneva. This plain has an area of 34 square miles ;
and the depth of the alluvium which covers it, and all of which has been deposited
there by the Rhone, is unknown. A few ancient moraines rise above it. The
village of Port-Valais, which formerly stood upon the banks of the lake, is now at
a distance of over a mile away from it, the whole of the intervening land having
been deposited in the course of three centuries. It is also asserted that the
delta of the Rhone has so rapidly grown during a single generation that the
inhabitants of Villeneuve are no longer able to see Le Bouveret, which faces them
on the southern shore, it being now hidden from view by a peninsula coveied with
poplars, willows, and houses. The heavier fragments brought down by the river
form flats and sand-banks close to its mouth, whilst the triturated sand is carried
a considerable distance into the lake. It has been ascertained, by soundings, that
the bottom of the eastern extremity of the lake is slightly convex in front of the
mouths of the river, a phenomenon satisfactorily explained by the deposition of
alluvial matter.
Though much smaller now than in former ages, the Lake of Gejieva, or Leman,
is the largest lake of Western Europe. It is also one of the deepest, its bottom
extending down almost to the level of the sea.* To drain it by a river equal in
volume to the Rhone would require no less than ten years, supposing, of course,
that its tributaries ceased to flow. Like the ocean, it has its storms, its waves, its
surge ; but the most careful observations have not hitherto established the existence
of tidal currents. The seiches are a phenomenon of quite a different kind, and
are profliiced by sudden changes in the pressure of the atmosphere, which result in
a swelling up of a, portion of the lake, sometimes to the extent of 6 feet. These
seiches occur at regular intervals, and the laws which govern them are now
thoroughly understood.!
♦ I-ake of Gcnora :— Avemge height above rsea, 1,217 feet; average area, 223 square miles ; greatest
depth. l.dOii f....t ; average a.|)th, I9i feet ; approximate contents, 85,193 milUon tons of water,
t See Forol in Bull, de la Hoe. Vault, dea t>ciencm Naturellea.
424
SWITZERLAND.
The Lake of Geneva belongs both to the Switzerland of the Alps and that of
the Jura. Crescent-shaped, it consists in reality of two separate basins — that in
the east overlooked by the buttresses of the Alps, that in the west bounded by the
gentler slopes of the Jura. These two basins indicate by their direction the system
of mountains to which they belong. The eastern sheet of water stretches north-west,
like all other Alpine lakes, whilst the parallel banks of the western sheet of water
stretch towards the south-west; that is, in the same direction as the Lake of Neuchatel
and the other lakes of the Jura. The two basins differ likewise as to their conKgura-
tion. The western lake is shallow, and gradually narrows towards the debouchure of
the Rhone, the blue waters of which rush from the lake to mingle soon after with
Kg. 300. — The Lake of Geneva.
Scale 1 ; 660,000.
10 Miles.
the turbid ones of the Arve. It is to be regretted that no dam has hitherto been
built across the Rhone at Geneva, which would enable us not only to regulate its
level, but also to supply motive power to the numerous factories along the river,
and last, not least, to mitigate the floods which now so frequently carry havoc into
the fertile fields of France. Careful observations made at I^yons during forty
floods show distinctly that if such a dam had been in existence at the outlet of
the Lake of Geneva, the rise of the flood would have been less to the extent
of from 15 to 24 inches. By completely stopping the discharge of the lake during
a week its level would rise only to the extent of V^O inches. By diverting the
Arve into the lake we might certainly mitigate the floods on the Lower Rhone ;
but this would entail a very considerable expenditure, whilst it would prove a
KIVERS AND LAKES. 425
possible nuisance to the city of Geneva, whose port might become silted up by the
vast mass of alluvial mutter brought down that river.*.
Formerly the level of the lake was much higher, and ancient lake beaches,
dating back to the termination of the glacial period, may still be traced at an eleva-
tion of 100 and more feet above its present level. It is equally certain that
during the pliocene age, which preceded the two glacial periods, the Jura Moun-
tains extended into Savoy. At that time the lake was shut in, on the west, by
a huge mountain barrier, and its waters spread far north to the height of land
at Entre-Roches, which separated it from the basin of Neuchatel. On that
height of land, the elevation of which is the same as that of the ancient lake
beaches discovered above the Rhone valley, near the Fort of L'Ecluse, we find
accumulations of pebbles, partly derived from the Valais, partly from the Bernese
Oberland. We do not know in what direction the lake discharged its surplus
waters during these remote ages. No trace of an ancient outlet has hitherto beeu
discovered.
Amongst the lakes lying wholly upon Swiss territory that of Neuchatel is the
largest. Like its neighbour of Geneva, it was far more extensive in a former age,
Fig. 301. — Pkofile of the Lake of Geneva.
IVfii Lac Qrnnii Tja/a
Horizontal Scale 1 : 660,000 (same as Map). Vertical Scale 1 : .390,000.
for it included not only the two neighbouring Lakes of Biel (Bienne) and Morat,
but the whole of the plains to the south, as far as the height of land at Entre-
Roches, and the swampy plains which stretch eastward to the valley of the
Aar. Even during the present century it has happened sometimes, when the
rainfall was exceptionally heavy, that the three lakes became once more united
into one.t The damp land which separates the three lakes, and in the midst of
which rise a few wooded hills — ancient islands or promontories — is known as the
" See-land," or " Lake-land," and its cultivation has only been rendered possible
by a carefully devised system of drainage. The banks of these lakes are low,
and they are shallow. Whilst most of the Swiss lakes occupy deep cavities, with
precipitous sides and a flat bottom, the three lakes of the plain are in many parts
fringed by " white bottoms " {hlaiics fond^), covered only by a few feet of water,
which, however, does not conceal the white-coloured mud beneath. Reeds grow in
many places, and much of the shore is alternately a swamp or covered by the water
• Fall of the Rhrtne between the lake and the mouth of the Arve (average), 10 53 feet; horse-power
available, 7,000 ; actually utilised, 400.
Height above ^rea. Depth in Feet. Tinn"™°r'"„ '
F«"t. «<••»• "- «-"• 'of Water
t lAke of Neuchatel . . . 1,427 927 472 246 18,000
Tjxlie of Biel (Bienne) . . . 1,424 16-2 253 130 1,6S0
I-ake of Morat .... 1,427 10-4 167 98 81
426
SWITZERLAND.
of the lake, according to the season. As to the bed of the Lake of Neuchatel, far
from being a uniform level, it consists of a succession of ridges, running in the same
direction as the neighbouring chains of the Jura, and extending north-east into
the Lake of Bienne, where one of them rises above the water, forming the island of
St. Pierre. A similar ridge occupies the basin of the Lake of Morat.
These three lakes of the Jura have grown much smaller during the historic
period, the alluvium carried into them by torrents and the formation of bogs along
their banks tending to the same result. Near the bridge over the Thiele, between
the Lakes of Neuchatel and Bienne, and about 14,000 feet from the actual shore of
the latter, piles have been discovered, which were evidently placed there when the
Fig. 302. — The Lakes op Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat.
Scale 1 : 625,000.
. 10 Miles.
The darker shade indicates a depth ot over 328 feet.
surrounding coun fry was still underwater. An abbey, built in 1100 close upon
the shore of the lake, is now at a distance of 1,230 feet from it. Quite recently a
shrinking of the Lake of Neuchatel has led to the discovery of pile dwellings, and
of numerous prehistoric remains. This natural .shrinking of the lakes is accele-
rated by the "correction" of their emissaries. A fall of 10 feet in their level
would result in the recovery of a considerable tract of land capable of being
cultivated, whilst the drainage of the marshes which surround them would much
improve the salubrity of the country. Tlie bogs near the Lake of Morat, which
formerl}^ were frequently inundated by tlie Broye, have now been drained, and are
being cultivated : the village of Witzwyl and several farmsteads now occupy what
En'EES AND LAKES.
427
was not many years ago an unproductive waste. The Upper Thiele, which flows
into the Lake of Neuchatel, and the Broye, a tributary of the Lake of Morat,
frequently overflow their banks, and if it were not for the hike reservoirs into
which they discharge themselves, their floods would carry destruction far down
the valley. When these two rivers are in flood the Luke of Neuchatel receives
21,200 cubic feet of water every second, its discharge during the same time not
exceeding 3,500 cubic feet. It is thus that lakes act as regulators of the flow of
rivers. But the Aar, a powerful river, likewise traverses the plain of the lakes, or
" Seeboden," and there is no lake to regulate its floods or to receive the alluvium
carried along by it. Engineers are about to provide it with such a reservoir. A
canal, connecting the Aar at Aarberg with the Lake of Bienne, is designed to
convey its flood waters into the latter ; whilst the Lower Thiele, converted into a
Fig. 303. — Thb Lakes op Bhiesz and Thik.
Scale 1 ; 400,000.
WlVMT
. 5 Milen.
Tbe dark shading exp eeses a depth of over 660 feet.
navigable canal, will regulate the discharge of the lake. In making the excava-
tions for this canal a Roman tunnel, 2,800 feet in length, was discovered near the
village of Hageneck, at a depth of 300 feet below the level of the dividing ridge.
The redoubtable Aar is " regulated " in its upper course by the twin Lakes of
Brienz and Thun. Formerly these two lakes formed ope sheet of water, but
during the glacial period immense quantities of mud and stones, the waste of the'
mountain masse.S of the Oberland, were carried down the valley of the Lutschine,
and deposited in the very centre of the elongated lake, which was thus separated
into two ba.sins.* Denudation and deposition still proceed, though at a very slow
rate, and both lakes are gradually being silted up. The Upper Aar, which enters
the upper end of the Lake of Brienz, collects the debris throughout its basin,
which includes the glacier of Unteraar, and, rushing over the Ilandeck Falls,
L-ike of Brienz.
Lakp of Thua
HeiRlit above the sea, in feet .
1,8.>3
1,8(7
AvcraRO area, in square miles .
HO
18-6
Depth, greatest, in fiwt .
8.56
702
Depth, mean, in feet
660
600
Contents, in uiilliun tons of water .
6,000
7,940
428
SWITZERLAND.
deposits it in the lake. Lower down, the Lake of Brienz is joined by the Lutschine,
which is fed by the vast glaciers of the Oberland, including that of Grindelwald.
Formerly this furious mountain torrent frequently devastated the country around
Interlaken ; but about the middle of the thirteenth century it was confined within
an artificial channel, and diverted by a direct course into the lake. Amongst the
rivers which join the Lake of Thun the Kander is the most important. It brings
down immense quantities of pebbles and mud. As recently as the beginning of
last century it joined the Aar, about a mile below the town of Thun, but the sudden
Fig. 304.— The Guindelwalu Glacier.
Scale 1 : 100,000.
t of P
t. of tr.
inundations which it caused were of so disastrous a nature that the patricians of
Bern caused it to be diverted into the lake. The roof of the tunnel which they
constructed for that purpose has since fallen in, but the river continues to flow in
the desired direction. The alluvium deposited by it covered an area of 142 acres
in 1870, and, as the depth of the lake there cannot have been less than 200 feet,
its mass may be estimated at 42,000,000 cubic yards.
The ancient lakes which formerly extended along the foot of the Jura, below
the confluence of the Aar and the Thiele, exist no longer. The alluvium carried
down by torrents, the growth of peat mosses, and the labour of man have converted
RIVERS AND LAKES. 429
them into pasture-lands. All the small lakes of Northern Switzerland, as those of
Sempach, Baldegg, Hallwyl, Greiffen, and Pfaffikon, as well as the three large
ones of Luzem, Zug, and Zurich, belong to the hydrographical domain of the Alps,
or of their foot-hills. The junction between the river systems of the Alps and the
Jura takes place at the triple confluence of the Aar, the Reuss, and the Limmat.
At a former geological epoch these three rivers flowed along the foot of tho
Jurassic ridge of the Liigern, towards the Lake of Constanz ; but in the end
the united force of these rivers broke through the barrier of the Jura. Geo-
graphically the passage which they opened for themselves forms the Gate of
Switzerland to a traveller coming from the direction of Germany.
The centre one of the rivers, the Reuss, is the effluent of the Lake of the
Four Cantons, which of all the lakes of Switzerland most resembles a Norwegian
fiord. Between Luzern and Brunnen, or between Kiissnacht and Stad, the lake
appears to consist of a single sheet of water, but in reality it is formed of several
separate basins, some joined to each other by narrow straits, others intersecting
each other at right angles. At a former geological epoch, when the Lakes of
Zug, Lowerz, Sarnen, and Lungern still formed part of the system of the Four
Cantons, the labyrinth of these water-ways was even more intricate. Abrupt
turnings, bold promontories, wide bays bordered by villages, glistening villas and
sombre forests, cultivated fields and distant views of the Alps, are productive of
the most picturesque effects, and many there are in whose opinion this is the
most beautiful lake in all Switzerland. Historical associations increase the
interest with which we contemplate its beauties. Formerly the lake was popu-
larly considered to be almost unfathomable, and fishermen seriously talked about
abyssal depths of 5,000 feet. They believed that the steep precipices which bound
it continued at the same gradient until they met beneath its waters They do
extend beneath the surface of the lake, but only as far as its flat bottom, which
in the basin of Uri lies at a depth of 612 feet. The depth of the large basin is
853 feet, that of the Lake of Zug 644 feet.*
The lakes drained by the Limmat have a geological history similar to that of
the twin Lakes of Brienz and Thun. They, too, were cut in two by alluvial
masses carried down by the glaciers. The Lake of Wallenstadt, or Wallen, most
resembles an abyss. Bounded by the steep walls of the Churfirsten, this narrow
and sombre lake resembles a gorge which has been invaded by a river. And such
has actually been the case. The Rhine, which now flows to the oast of the
mountain masses of Appenzell and enters the Lake of Constunz, formerly flowed
through the narrow mountain defile which opens to the south of the Churfirsten,
and, taking tlie direction of the river Linth, the Lake of Ziirich, and the present
bed of the Limmat, it joined the Aar. A atrip of alluvial land, about 43 miles
in length, and only 16 feet high in the centre, now separates the Rhine from
Lake of Zug.
1,367
U7
644
390 ?
4,560
Lake of Luzem.
• Height above the sea, in feet .
1,434
Average area, in »<iuare miles .
43-7
nepth, Brrnatest, in feet ....
853
Depth, avrTiigf, in feet ....
490 P
Contents, in million tons of water .
16,950
430
SWITZERLAND.
its ancient bed. A flood of unusual height might some day enable it to overcome
this obstacle, as very nearly happened in 1817 ; and, if once it resumed its ancient
course, it might not again return to its present bed. The people of Zurich fear
such an event, and for this reason they offer the most powerful opposition to the
construction of a canal which is to join the Liuth to the Rhine, and the railway
engineers were prevented from carrying their line through a cutting.
Below the Lake of Wallenstadt commences the valley of the Linth, formerly a
swamp, converted into dry land by the detritus washed down from the Alps of
Glarus. The torrent which performed the greater portion of this geological work
was formerly much dreaded on account of its sudden floods, which laid waste the
fields, and decimiated the population by breeding miasmatic fevers. The famous
Fig. 305.— The Swamps op the Linth.
Scale 1 : 220,000.
ii'-ll.oZ. f ia^3
[<^-^
■i
. 2 Miles.
Swiss geologist, Escher, surnamed of the Linth, diverted the course of this river
into the Lake of Wallenstadt, and canalised the sluggish Mag, which formerly
meandered amongst swamps. The Limmat (Linth- Mag), which drains the Lake of
Ziirich, is joined in the suburbs of that town by the Sihl, a river which
frequently overflows its banks, but which jnight easily be diverted into the lake.
The Aar, having been reinforced by the Reuss and the Limmat, is a larger
river than the Rhine * at the confluence of the two rivers, but its course being
more sinuous, and its valley of less importance than that of the smaller river, the
name of the latter has been bestowed upon the united streams. In its general
• Averagje volume of the Rhine at the eonflueuee with the Aar, 15,010 cubic feet a second ; of the Aar,
18,080 cuhic feet.
RIVERS AND LAKES.
481
features the Rhine bears a striking resemblance to the Rhone. Both rivers rise
near the St. Gotthard, in a great transversal valley of the Central Alps ; both
purify their waters in a large lake; and, in their passage through the same
Jurassic range of mountains, they both form cataracts and waterfalls, though
separated by that time by an interval of 180 miles. The elbow at Basel has its
analogue in the elbow at Lyons. Both rivers then flow straight towards the
sea, the one to the Mediterranean, the other to the German Ocean, and the volume
of water they discharge is about the same.
The principal head-stream of the Rhine is not the Vorder-Rhein, which rises in
the neighbourhood of Andermatt, but the Hinter-Rhein, or Further Rhine, which
has its source on the Adula. It is not "born amongst reeds," but rises from an
icy cave, amidst a chaotic mass of rocks, rejoicing in the epithet of " Hell." Lower
Fig. 30fi. — The Soukces of the Rhine.
Scale 1 : 925,000.
lOlUles.
down it traverses many another " hell," the most famous amongst which is the
fearful gorge of the Via Mala, bounded by precipitous rocks rising to a height of
1,500 feet. Immediately below that famous cleft in the mountains, within which
the river is confined to a bed hardly 30 feet wide, the Rhine is joined by two
mountain torrents. One of these is the Una, the waters of which are sometimes
black as ink, owing to the triturated slate they hold in suspension ; the other is the
Albula, or " white river," which is a more formidable stream than the Rhine itself.
It issues from the gorge of Schyn, or Mai Pass, hardly less wild than that of the
Via Mala, and exceedingly interesting on account of its geological formation.
Formerly, before the Albula had opened itself a passage through this gorge, it
flowed north, in the direction of Chur.
The Rhine, now an imposing river, flows past the piled-up rock masses of the
432 SWITZERLAND.
Calanda, and is joined by several valleys, amongst which that of the Tainina is best
known on account of its overhanging rocks, at whose foot rise the thermal springs of
Pfiiffers. The Rhine then flows through a wide alluvial plain, and below Sargans,
where its old bed branches off to the left, in the direction of the Lake of Wallen-
stadt (see p. 429), it enters the ancient lake basin, now to a great part filled up by
its alluvium. This filled-up basin is more extensive than that of the Rhone above
the Lake of Geneva, its area amounting to no less than 116 square miles, and it is
continually encroaching upon the Lake of Constanz. A few isolated hills, not yet
destroyed by errosive action, rise in the midst of this vast alluvial plain. The
river, which here forms the boundary between Switzerland and Austria, frequently
overflows its banks, and the maintenance of embankments * and the drainage of the
land require unremitting attention, in spite of which the Rhine has repeatedly
broken through the barriers which confine it, and excavated itself a new bed.
In many parts of the valley the average level of the river is from 6 feet to 10 feet
higher than the adjoining plain. When building a bridge near Buchs, an old
stone embankment was discovered at a depth of 16 feet below the actual level of
the valley.
The Lake of Constanz is the remnant of a vast sheet of water which formerly
stretched from the Swabian Jura to the mountains of the Tyrol. It is a German
lake rather than a Swiss one, and its German name, Bodensee, is derived from a
small village at its north-western extremity. In its general features it resembles
the Lake of Geneva, but it is smaller and more shallow. Its waters present the
phenomenon of seiches, locally known as Rahssen. Its elevation above the sea
being greater than that of the Lake of Geneva, and its position more northerly and
less sheltered against cold easterly winds, ice forms along its banks nearly every
winter, and five times in the course of the last four centuries the lake was frozen
over entirely.
The Lake of Geneva formerly discharged its waters into the Rhine, whilst the
Lake of Constanz was tributary to the Danube. Subsequently, after the latter lake
had become a member of the basin of the Rhine, its waters discharged themselves,
towards the north-west, through the arm now known as the Lake of Ueberlingen.
At the present time the lake overflows through a canal 2| miles in length
into the Untersee, or Lower Lake, which may almost be looked upon as a distinct
lake, as it lies about 3 feet below the Bodensee. It is much shallower. For-
merly its waters escaped through a valley now occupied by the rivers Aach and
Biber, but they now issue from the south-western corner of the lake at Stein. In
its passage through the Jurassic hills below that town the current of the river is
strong. At Schaffhausen a forsaken bed of the river, now known as the Klettgau,
branches off on the right. A short distance below that town, close to the old castle
of Laufen, the Rhine plunges over a ledge of rock and forms a waterfall 66 feet in
height. In the midst of the foaming waters rise two jagged rocks, the one
pierced by a natural tunnel, through which the waters rush when the river is in
• Lake of Constanz (or Bodensee): — Height above the sea, 1,306 feet; area (average), 208 square
miles ; depth, greatest, 906 feet ; depth, average, 490 feet ; contents, in tons of water, 80,850 millions.
EIVERS AND LAKES.
488
flood, and both covered with shrubs, whose leaves are ever moistened by the mist
which perpetually hangs over the falls and is drifted about by the wind. The Falls
of Laufen, frequently called after the neighbouring town of SchaflPhausen, are the
most considerable of Europe, no less than 330 tons of water, on an average, roaring
over them every second. They set in motion the wheels of numerous factories.
Above its junction with the Aar the Rhine is joined by the Thur, an impetuous
river, which frequently overflows its banks.
Below the Aar the Rhine has still to surmount several obstacles before it
reaches the plain. It forms a few small rapids, known as the Kleine Laufen. They
present no obstacle to vessels descending the river, but the Great Rapids, or
GroHse Laufen, near Laufenberg, interrupt navigation. The Rhine by this time
has traversed the whole width of the Jura. It flows over a bed of granite con-
nected with the Black Forest, and enters a natural region very diflerent from
Switzerland. Soon after, at Basel, the river turns abruptly towards the north, and
intersects the wide plain of Alsatia and Baden, bounded on the one side by the
Vosges, on the other by the Black Forest. Two-thirds of the surface drainage of
Switzerland pass beneath the arches of the bridge of Basel. The volume of the
Rhine, not including the water conveyed into it by tributaries not fed from Swiss
sources, is double that of all the other rivers of Switzerland (Rhone, Ticino,
Maggia, and Inn) at the spots where they leave Swiss territory.*
• Average volume of the rivers of Switzerland at the Swiss frontiers, as detcrmiiied hy a Federal
Commission in 1871 (cubic feet per second): — Khine, 28,854; Rhone, 9,.535; Ticino (Tessin), 3,708;
Maggia, 2,190; Verzasca, 353; Inn, 1,765; minor rivers, 424; total, 46,829.
The volume of the Khine at Basel, including the water conveyed into it by its German tributaries, is
3fi,300 cubic feet a second.
67
CHAPTER V.
CLIMATE, FAUNA, AND FLORA*
HE variety in the vertical configuration of the country materially
affects its climate, and nearly every valley and every mountain side
has a climate of its own. Speaking in a general way, we may observe
tliat the climate in the Jura and on the northern slope of the
Alps is far more inclement than would be expected from the
latitude, whilst the towns on the southern slopes, being protected against
northeily winds, enjoy a milder climate than other places equally distant from
the equator, but situated on an open plain. Thus, whilst the mean annual
temperuture at Locarno, on the bank of the Lago Maggiore, amounts to 55
Fahr., that of the S'^'iss plain, between the Lakes of Geneva and Constanz,
does not exceed 49° Fahr. In fact, every place in Switzerland has its distinct
climate. t On ascending a mountain the mean annual temperature decreases
1° Fahr. for every 349 feet we ascend. This is the average, the extremes
being 300 and 419 feet, according to the locality. The mean annual temperature
on the passes of the St. Gotthard and Simplon is not much below freezing point ;
that on the St. Bernard is considerably less. The mean temperature of the
Monte Rosa and of the highest peaks of the Oberland has been estimated at
6" Fahr., which is the climate of Greenland or the Arctic regions. The average
height of the snow-line is 9,180 feet, but in exceptionally warm summers the
• H. C. Lombard, " Lcs Climats dra Montagnes;" Diifour, "Recherches sur le Fuhn du 23 Sept.,
1866, en Suisse ; " T»chudi, " Dta Thierleben der Alpenwelt."
Meteorological Table.
Lat, N.
t Basel, 47° 34' .
St. Gallen, 47° 26'
Ziirich, 47° 23'
Bern, 46° 57' .
Chur, 46° 50' .
Neuchutel, 46° 49'
Lausanne, 46° 31'
Geneva, 46° 12'
St. Gotthard, 46° 32
St. Bernard, ii>° 50
Height.
Mean Temperature (Degrees
F.-l.r.)
Precipitation.
Feet.
Jnnuaiy.
July.
Year.
Inches.
804
31°
66°
48°
25
1,810
29°
65°
49°
—
1 ,420
29°
66°
48°
33
1,910
27°
63°
46°
46
2,000
29°
66°
49°
—
1,440
33°
6t°
47°
—
l,t40
30°
64°
49""
40
1,330
31° 6'
64°
48"
32
7,090
18°
46°
30"
—
8,170
16°
43°
28°
61
CLIMATE, FAUNA, AND FLORA. 486
snows completely mflt away on summits having an altitude of over 11,000
feet ; and even the jagged rocks of the Mischabel, which rise to a height of 14,000
feet, may then occasionally be seen without a patch of snow.
The mountains of Switzerland intercept winds and clouds, and the amount
of precipitation is consequently more considerable than in the neighbouring
countries. Dense fogs frequently drift over the swampv plains, the" lakes, or
shut-m valleys, but, as a rule, the sky is rather less dear half-way up the moun-
tains than either in ihe lowlands or upon the mountain summits. The clouds
are generally iutercepted by the mountains at an elevation of 5,000 feet, and
then descend in rains. Higher up, precipitation, in the form of snow, is' less
abundant. The annual raintkll varies in the plain of Switzerland between 25
Fie. 307. — Rain Map of Switzerland.
»-« In.
40-60 in.
00-80 in.
80—100.
Over 100 inches.
and 46 inches. This is far more than falls in France, but very much less than
falls on the upper mountain slopes. On the Pass of St. Bernard the annual
amount of precipitation, including rain and snow, exceeds 5 feet. Agassiz
saw more than 56 feet of snow fall upon the passes in a single winter. On
the southern slope of the Alps, in the valley of the Ticino, the rainfall resulting
from the contact of warm winds with the cold mountain slopes is more consider-
able still, and sometimes exceeds 9 feet in the course of a single year.
Proportionately to its area, Switzerland receives a greater quantity of rain than
any other country in Europe ; and the quantity of water which flows down its
rivers to the sea is very considerable. The combined volume of these rivers,
which flow to the north, west, and south — into German)', France, and Italy — is
four times greater than that of the rivers of France, always bearing in mind
436 SWITZERLAND.
the difference between the areas of the two countries. In addition to these
rivers, which carry fertility to disiant countries, Switzerland possesses in its lakes
and glaciers vast reservoirs of water.
North-easterly and south-westerly winds prevail, as in France and Germany,
and the confliut between the polar and equatorial currents is going on perpetually
and with varying success. Mountains and valleys, however, by intercepting
or turning aside the atmospheric currents, produce the most extraordinary
irreo-ularities. Sometimes a violent wind blow? on a pass, whilst in the valley
below the air is calm, or moving gently in an inverse direction. It is by no
means rare for a northerly wind to penetrate some valley from the south, or
for a westerly wind to do so from the east. Moreover, in all the valleys which
are bounded by high mountains, the wind must either blow up or down. In
the canton of Valais, for instance, the winds either blow from the west or from
the east ; whilst in tlie valley of the Ehine, between Chur and the Lake of
Constanz, only northerly and southerly winds are known, and the same is the case
in the valley of tlie Ticino, between the St. Gotthard and the Lago Maggiore.
The general law in accordance with which the winds blow down the hills
durino- the night and in the morning, and up the hills during the heat of the
day, has been observed to prevail throughout Switzerland, and more especially
on the lakes, where fishermen are obliged to pay special attention to this
phenomenon. Except when interfered with by general atmospheric currents,
a breeze begins to blow every afternoon from the bottom of the lake towards t.c
mountains, the air above which has become rarefied through the heat of the sun.
After sunset the mountains cool suddenly, and during the night the wind blows
down the lake. Local circumstances, such as temperature and configuration of
the mountains, cause the hour of change to vary for each lake basin. Thus in
the canton of Ticino, where the steep slopes are exposed to the full heat of the
sun, the breva, or uphill breeze, begins to blow at eleven in the forenoon, whilst
the contrary curre it sets in early in the evening. On the Lakes of Ziirich and
Constanz, which occupy valleys open towards the west, and are surrounded by
mountains of less height, and less exposed to the rays of the sun, the breezes set
in several hours later.
The /o/in, known to the Romans a.& faioiims, brings about the most sudden
changes of temperature, and disturbs more than any other wind the general
equilibrium of the atmosphere. This wind, so much dreaded and yet so bene-
ficent, has been a subject of frequent discussion amongst meteorologists. Dove,
Miihry, and others look upon the fohn as a tropical counter current of the
trade winds. Others, including Escher of the Linth and Desor, believe that it
originates in the Sahara, and flows in towards the area of low atmospheric
pressure in Western Europe. M. L. Dufour, who most carefully investigated the
fiihn of the 2-{rd of Se])teniber, 1866, found that the meteorological conditions of
Algeria coincided on that day in the most striking manner with those of Switzer-
land, both countries having been visited by the same tempest. The fohn usually
blows in winter or in early spring, and differs much according to season or
CLIMATE, FAUNA, AND FLORA.
487
locality. As a rule it is hot, dry, and enervating. During its passage over the
high Alps it cools, and causes heavy rains to fall upon the Monte Rosa and other
summits of Ticino ; but, as it plunges down again into the valleys, it regains its
heat by condensation, and blows warm. It is the ftihn which melts most of the
snow in spring, sometimes in the course of a few hours laying bare extensive
mountain slopes. " Without the fohn," say the peasants of the Grisons, " neither
God nor the golden sun would prevaU over the snow." But this wind, so beneficent
on many occasions, is terrible in its fury. Woe to the vessel that ventures upon
a lake exposed to its full blast. It lashes the surface of the water into mighty
waves, and converts the lake into a caldron of seething water.
As we rise from one climatic zone to the other, all that has life in it plants,
Fic- SO" - A r-T-v -- -,;- At \r Ti 1 1,. with a Viiw op thr Attklb and Gspaltenhohn.
animals, and human beings — diminishes. Nearly the whole of the population of
Switzerland has settled down in the plains, in the hilly regions, and in the
valleys which extend into the Alps. A contour-line drawn at a definite height
along the mountain slopes would mark, in many parts, the upper limit of human
habitations. There is only one town, viz. Chaux-de-Fonds, in the Jura of
Neuchatel which has been built at an elevation of more than 3,200 feet, and that
almost in despite of the climate. Many villages in the Alpine valleys have an
elevation of between 4,000 and 5,000 feet, and in the dreary valle}' of Avers,
wliich is tributary to the Vorder-Rhein, where the year is made up of.
" nine months of winter and three of cold,' we meet with the hamlet of Juf,
inhabited by descendants of German settlers. Juf, at an elevation of (),700 feet
above the sea-level, is the highest village in Europe permanently inhabited.
438 SWITZERLAND.
The hospice of the Great St. Bernard, at a still higher elevation (8,108 feet), is
open throughout the year for the reception of travellers crossing the pass. A
few liuts have- been built even beyond the limits of perennial snow as places of
shelter for mountain climbers. The most elevated amongst these is the one on
the Matterhorn, which stands at a height of 12,790 feet.
It is well known that the climate exercises a most potent influence upon the
inhabitants of the upper valleys. The mountaineers, as a rule, are stouter and
heavier-limbed than the dwellers in the plain. Owing to the light air they breathe,
they are less subject to maladies ; and consumption, which carries off so many
victims in Western Europe, is hardly known amongst them. Experience has
clearly established this fact, and thousands of consumptive patients now pass the
winter in the midst of snow and ice, in the villages of the valley of Davos and in
the Grisons, which have an elevation of 5,080 feet.* On the other hand, the
deaths from lung diseases and pleurisy increase with the altitude. These diseases
are contagious amongst the mountaineers, and are much dreaded. In German
Switzerland they are known as Alpenstich, or " stroke of the Alps." Asthma,
scrofula, and rheumatism are more frequent in the Alpine valleys than in tlie
plains. In damp places deficient in sunshine, and more especiilly where the
water runs over magnesian rocks, many of the inhabitants are afflicted with wens
or suffer from cretinism. Cleanliness, however, and an improved diet, cause these
diseases to diminish from year to year.
Bodily and mental afflictions are more frequent in Switzerland than in the
neighbouring countries, and only the number of blind is less.t But Switzerland
possesses, in its diversified climate, varying with the elevation above the sea, the
most powerful means of combating these maladies. By a change of residence we
may obtain lighter air, more warmth, or less moisture. Jean Jacques Rousseau
clearly perceived these advantages when he expressed his surprise that " bathing
in the salubrious and beneficial mountain air had not yet become one of the great
resources of medical science or of moral education." The wish of the great
philosopher has been amply fulfilled, and thousands of our townsfolk now annually
visit Switzerland in search of bodily, if not of moral strength ; and they crowd the
great hotels on the mountains and in the vallej's, on the Rigi, the Seelisberg,
the Muverau, the Bellalp, and many others, where a prospect may be enjoyed of the
Monte Rosa or of the snow-clad peaks of the Bernese Oberland. The watering-
places of the country, such as Sohinznach, Baden, Pfaffers, Leuk (Loueche), or
St. Moritz, are quite as much indebted to the pure mountain air for their success
as to the character of their water. As to the mountaineers themselves, they are
always having " changes of air," though by no means for the sake of their health.
* Deaths from consumption amongst a thousand in}iabitants : — All Switzerland. 77 ; Basel (836 feet),
106; Geneva (1,230 fe(.'t), 101; Vhlais (1.(>4U feet), 49 ; Fribourg (2,()G0 feet), 37; Zug (1,370 feet), 17.
In England the proportion is 124 per niille.
t Insane, in the eanton of Bern, according to Dr Fetscherin (1871), 1,292, or 1 in 391 ; idiots, 1,-')12,
or I in 335 ; idiots in Switzerland (census of 1870), 7,764, or 1 in 344 ; deaf and dumb, 6,644, or 1 in 408 ;
blind, 2,032, or 1 in 1,313.
In France the number of deaf and dumb is only one-fifth of the above, but the blind are slightly more
numerous.
CLIMATE, FAUNA, AND FLORA. 439
They ascend the mountains to mow the grass ; return to the lowlands to attend to
their vineyards ; and grow their oats and potatoes at some intermediate point. In
the Valais we meet with numerous parish communities alternately inhabiting
three distinct villages, according to the season.
It would not by any means be easy to trace the upper limits of various zones
of vegetation, for local conditions, exposure to the sun, and human industry or
interference bring about numerous exceptions. Even at Juf, far above the region
of forests, the perseverance of the inhabitants compels the soil to yield a few
vegetables. On the southern slope of the Alps, and in the valleys of the Valais
(Wallis), which are sheltered against northerly winds, the vegetation ascends to a
greater height than in German Switzerland. The vine, for instance, flourishes on
the slope of Monte Rosa up to a height of 2,950 feet, whilst in the canton of St.
Gall it cannot be grown beyond 1,700 feet. In JVorthern Switzerland cereals can
be grown up to 3,600 feet, whilst rye succeeds up to 5,900 feet in the Grisons, and
up to 6,500 feet on the slopes of Monte Rosa. Irrespectively of exceptional cases,
we may say that cultivation in Switzerland ceases at 3,940 feet. About one-
half of the country lies thus above the region of agriculture, and much of the lower
land is either unfit for cultivation or covered with lakes or forests. Fields, pro-
perly 80 called, only occupy the seventh part of it, and they diminish almost every
year, as meadows prove more remunerative. Next to Norway, Srt itzerland, of all
European countries, derives least support from its agricultural resources, and
nearly half the bread eaten by the inhabitants is imported from abroad.
The great wealth of the country consists of its forests, its meadows, and its
mountain pastures ; for trees cover one-sixth of the total area, and pastures nearly
one-third. In the Valais, in the Grisons, and in the Ticino we find many barren
slopes, but, as a rule, the mountains of Switzerland are distinguished for their
verdure. The lower slopes are covered with forests, their upper ones with aro-
matic herbs and grasses ; and their freshness and beauty impress us all the more if
we call up in our mind the tottering precipices of the Alps of the Dauphine, the
scorched rocks of the Apennines clad with meagre shrubs, or the dreary sierras
of Spain, ashy-coloured or of a glaring red. The oak is comparatively rare in
Switzerland, but nearly all the other forest trees of the lowlands of Europe
ornament its valleys and the lower spurs of the Alps. The walnut-tree
grows to an enormous size ; beeches and chestnut-trees cover the slopes a
little higher up ; and to these succeed black woods of firs and pines, the most cha-
racteristic trees of Switzerland. Higher .still we meet with lurches, the wood of
which is highly valued, until at last the creeping pine alone is capable of success-
fully struggling against the wind and the cold. Its roots are longer than its
branches, and these latter repose flat upon the ground amongst a carpet of rliodo-
dendrons, and are thus protected against the violence of the storms. Formerly
the forests extended higher up the hillsides, either owing to the refrigera-
tion of the climate, as some meteorologists assert, or, what is more probable,
because of the wanton destruction of forests by man, for a single tree soon perishes
440 SWITZERLAND.
where an entire forest would survive. The trunks of trees discovered in peat
mosses prove conclusively that the slopes of Viil Piora and of the Lukmanier were
formerly covered with forests up to a height of 7,200 feet, where only pastures are
found now. The upper limit of the forests has retired no less than ],300 feet.
As we ascend the mountains the minor flora likewise changes its character.
Down in the valleys carefully manured meadows yield abundant crops of hay, but
higher up our grasses disappear, and species of arctic plants take their place. In
spring the herds of cows leave the stables in which they pass the long winter,
and, headed by a " leader " crowned with flowers and furnished with melodious
bells, they depart for the Alps. They stay for some time on the lower pastures,
but when the snow melts away from the upper slopes they mount higher and
higher in search of the aromatic herbs which impart so delicious a flavour to the
milk they give. Every patch of pasture is made use of ; and if cattle cannot reach
it, sheep or goats are taken thither, the herdsman frequently carrying the animals
upon his back. On the approach of winter the herds once more return to the
valleys, and the Alps are given up to solitude.
Far below the upper limit of mosses and other arctic plants animal life has
ceased to exist in the mountains of Switzerland. Only about thirty species of
insects and arachnidae venture into the regions of persistent snows, which extend
from 9,100 feet upwards. Between 9,800 and 10,800 feet we meet only with a
few spiders. A field rat {Arvico/a nivalis) has been seen at an elevation of 13,000
feet above the sea, but it has not yet been determined whether this little animal,
which burrows its holes beneath ice and snow, lives permanently at such a height,
or only visits such altitudes occasionally during summer. Not only quadrupeds
and other land animals diminish with the height, but also fishes. The small lakes
above 6,900 feet, which are frozen during a great part of the year, are very poor
in them.
Many plants have disappeared during the historical epoch, more especially
species peculiar to heaths, swamps, and lakes, and the huntsmen have exterminated
several beasts which formerly inhabited the forests and the mountain sides". The
bison, or auroch, and the beaver, still numerous during the Middle Ages, exist no
longer. No deer has been seen in Switzerland for more than a century ; the roe
and wild boar have become exceedingly scarce, if they have not disappeared alto-
gether ; and it is very doubtful whether a tortoise was seen a short time ago, as
asserted. There still remain a few wild goats and wild cats. Wolves are more
numerous, and frequently invade the shcepfolds. The last bear was killed in
Appenzell in 1673 ; and as those in the Grisons, in Ticino, and in the Upper Valais
are sure of early extermination, the city of Bern will have to send to Asia or
Africa for its symbolical animals. The chamois, or gemsbuck, is being pursued to
extermination — eight hundred and twenty of these animals were killed in 1876 —
and the time is not very distant when the Swiss mountains will be inhabited only
by herds of domesticated animals.
Birds of prej-, and more especially tlie lammergeier, or bearded vulture, which
sometimes attacks even children, are diminishing too, but there is no reason to
CLIMATE, FAUNA, AND FLORA. 441
suppose that even a single species has been exterminated. The species of birds are
three times more numerous than the species of all other vertebrate animals together,
but three- fourths of these are merely birds of passage or occasional visitors, which
make their home in Switzerland during winter or summer. Looking to the geo-
graphical position of Switzerland, in the very centre of the temperate zone, and to
its bold mountain ranges, it is easily understood why so large a variety of birds of
passage should temporarily stay in its valleys. These birds, when crossing from
one slope of the Alps to the other, will naturally seek out the lowest depressions ;
and the Pass of St. Gotthard, with the valley of the Reuss leading up to it from the
north, and that of the Ticino from the south, forms one of the great high-roads
most frequented by those winged migrants. The high valleys at Urseren and
Andermatt afford convenient resting-places, and it is there that Swiss ornitholo-
gists have captured some of their most valued specimens. These birds, indeed,
pointed out to man, long before Alpine roads were thought of, the easiest passages
across the mountains.
CHAPTER VI.*
THE PEOPLE.
^^HE plains of Switzerland were inhabited centuries before the time to
which our most ancient historical documents go back. Even
the ages which intervened between the two glacial periods saw
man encamped in the valleys of the Alps. At Vizzicone, on the
Italian slope, the beds formed by moraines belonging to these two
periods are separated by a layer of lignite, within which has been found a mat
made of rush, branches cut off from firs have been discovered in a sedimentary
deposit dating back to the interglacial period, at the eastern extremity of the Lake
of Ziirich ; and Herr Riittmeyer feels convinced that these branches were to be
used for making baskets or a hedge, and prove the existence of man at that remote
age. When the Romans took possession of the country several epochs of civilisa-
tion had already successively passed over it without a line to record what had
happened, and it is only in our own days that evidence of these past ages has been
discovered in caverns, in the lakes, and in the peat bogs. The first remains of
human beings, together with their priinaeval implements, were discovered in
caverns. At Veyrier, near Mont Saleve, Messrs. Gosse and Thioly discovered
human bones and implements made of the horns of reindeer, which afford us a
glimpse into the life led bj' these troglodytae. Other caverns at Thayngen, near
Schaffhausen, which were inhabited during the reindeer period, have yielded
veritable treasures, including a bone upon which an artist of that bygone age has
rudely engraved the figure of a reindeer. Of the mammals which then inhabited
Switzerland there now remain only three, viz. the stag, the wild cat, and the wolf.
The southern slopes of the Alps appear to have been inhabited by men of a
different race, perhaps by Etruscans, and of these, too, prehistoric remains have been
discovered. One of the tributary valleys of the Maggia, the Val Lavizzara, or
"potters' valley," is thus named on account of a soft stone, which was formerly
made into pots. It is very probable that this name refers to an epoch of primitive
• Riitimeyor, "Archiv. fiir Anthropologie," VIII.; "Veriinderunffen der Thicrwelt der Schweiz;"
Razouinovsky, " Histoire Naturellc du Jura ; " F. Kellor, " Die Knltischen Pfahlbauten in dor iSchwt'iz ; "
Troyon, "Habitations Lacustres; " Oswald Heer, " Die PBanzen der Pfahlbauten;" A. Heiin, " Fund
aus der Renthierzeit."
THE PEOPLE.
448
civilisation, when man, not yet acquainted with the potter's wheel and the burning
of clay, made his vessels of stone.
When the reindeer had disappeared, the glaciers had retired up the valleys,
and the mosses of Lapland had been superseded by forests and grasses, the country
was inhabited by a different race, known to us as the Lake dwellers. Swiss
fishermen had long been acquainted with the fact that there existed rows of piles
in the shallow bays of some of the lakes, but they had no notion of their origin,
and the archajologists of the neighbourhood merely looked upon them as the
remains of Roman embankments. Razoumovsky, towards the close of the last
centurj', correctly guessed their origin,
but his explanation passed into oblivion
until an unexpected discovery enabled the
learned to arrive at the truth. During
the winter of 1853-54 the level of the
Lake of Ziirich fell much more than is
ordinarily the case. The inhabitants of
Obermeilen availed themselves of this op-
portunity, and, by throwing up embank-
ments in advance of the old coast, thev
managed to secure a considerable tract of
land. On this land, beneath a layer of
mud, were discovered pieces of charcoal.
Fig. 309. — The Lake of Pfaffikon.
Scale 1 : 65,000.
8°l28'E.of Paris
'■ - ■,^'.:
Stones blackened in the fire, cut bones,
and utensils of every description, which
clearly showed that a village had an-
ciently existed there. Herr Ferdinand
Keller carefully examined the.se remains,
and soon after made known the result of
his examination in a work on " Celtic Pile
Dwellings in the Swiss Lakes." This
was the starting-point in a subject of
inquiry which has largely contributed
towards laying the foundations of the
new science of prehistoric anthropology.
It was no difficult task to reconstruct
the pile dwellings of these distant ages.
The carbonised beams discovered amongst the piles clearly belonged to a platform
constructed a few feet above the water. Interlaced branches and fragments of
clay hardened in the fire formed the circular walls of the huts, whose conical
roof was constructed of reeds, straw, or bark. The stones of the hearth have
fallen beneath the place which they formerly occupied. Vessels of clay, heaps of
leaves and moss, which served as beds, arms, trophies of the chase, such as the
antlers of stags or the heads of bisons, which ornamented the walls — they all have
been discovered embedded in the mud. In the peat bogs which formerly were
Swamps.
Ifilands with pile
dwellings.
Woods.
444
SWITZERLAND.
covered by the Lake of Pfiiffikon, even stuffs made of flux and hemp, and pieces
of carbonised wheaten bread, have been discovered. By the side of the piles we
are still able to identify dug-out trunks of trees which were used as boats, whilst
rows of piles indicate the position of a bridge which connected the pile village
with the mainland. In a few instances an e.-^timate of the number of houses and
of their inhabitants could be made. Up to the present time no less than two
hundred of these villages have been discovered in the Swiss lakes, some of them
having as many as five hundred houses. The population of these villages, which
need not, however, have existed simultaneously, may be estimated at 100,000 souls.
This much is Certain, that these lake dwellers of Central Europe were perpetually at
Fig. 310. — The Pile Dwellinos op Switzeuianu.
Scale 1 : 2,200,000.
SO MUes.
war with each other, and that, like the Papuans and Dayaks of our own day, they
built their houses in the midst of the waters in order to be secure against sudden
attacks.
The only lakes of Switzerland in which no remains of pile dwellings have
hitherto been discovered are those which are very deep throughout, as the Lake
of Lugano, or which are in the cold zone, as those of Thun and Brienz. Liike
dwellings, some on piles, others placed on heaps of stone, bordered nearly the whole
of the shore of the Lakes of Neuchatel, Biel (Bienne), and Morat (Murten).
Nearly one-half of all those known to exist in Switzerland were discovered there.
But they are not the oldest, it appears, for it is principally on the banks of the
Lakes of Ziirich and Constanz that pile dwellings belonging to the stone age are
THE PEOPLE. 445
met with. M. Troyon has calculated, from the rate at which alluvial mud is being
deposited between the old pile village near Chamblon and the actual southern
extremity of the Lake of Neuchatel, that that village mutt have been built 3,300
years ago. The climate and flora of Switzerland were at that time pretty much
what they are now, except that water-chestnuts and water-lilies grew abundantly in
the lake, where they are no longer met with. All the cultivated plants belonged
to species which still exist in the counlry, but they were less productive. Cereals
and vegetables have been much improved since that time, and the grains of the
former are now larger and heavier. The animals were the same as now, with the
addition of the aurochs and the marsh pig, which have disappeared, and the bison,
the elk, and the beaver, which have retired to other parts of Europe. Domestic
fowls had not yet been introduced from the East. Curiously enough, no bones of
hares have been • discovered near the pile villages. Perhaps the lake dwellers
looked upon this animal as impure, as do the Laplanders of our own day, and
rejected it as an article of food. The cave dwellers of Thayngen had no such
scruples, for the bones of hares abound there.
The progress from the stone age to the ages of bronze and iron took place
either gradually through the influence of commerce, or it was brought about
abruptly by foreign invaders. Coarse earthenware, dating back to the time of
the Komans, proves that the lake dwellings were still inhabited at the beginning
of the Christian era. Many of them exist virtually to the present day, for towns
have arisen in their places. Ziirich occupies the site of a lake village dating back
to the stone age, whilst during the age of bronze there existed pile dwellings on
the site now occupied by Geneva.
To what race of man belonged the first inhabitants of the Swiss lakes ? We
do not know. MM. Riitimeyer, Keller, and other savants competent to form an
opinion, look upon the dwellers in these villages as the ancestors of the modern
Swiss. Others believe that these autochthons were Fins, or perhaps Iberians.
According to them the Celts arrived subsequently, either during the bronze age,
or during that of iron, and they exterminated the aboriginal inhabitants. These
invaders, the Helvetians, whose name (Elvii or Elvetii) probably means herdsmen,
conferred the name of Helvetia upon the region of the Central Alps, a name which
survives to the present day. The Celtic names of their villages, the shape of their
weapons, the crescents which they wore as amulets, and their custom of burning
the dead — all this proves their Gallic origin. The cultivated plants and the
domesticated animals, of which remains have been discovered in their pile
dwellings, prove conclusively that they carried on commercial intercourse with
Mediterranean countries.
The Celtic tribes — viz. the Helvetians of the plains and the Rauracians of the
Jura — occupied, however, only "Western Switzerland, the more mountainous regions
in the east being held by men of a difl'erent race. Many names of villages prove'
to us that the country to the east of a sinuous line drawn from the St. Gotthard
and the Bernese Alps to the mountains of St. Gall and Appenzell was occupied by
446 SWITZERLAND.
RhiEtians, or Rotes, who were either a Celtic tribe or the ancestors of the
Etruscans. When the great migration of peoples took place, the German
invaders proved sufficiently numerous to force their language and customs npon
the Celts who had preceded them. The territories invaded by Alemanni and
Franks form the German Switzerland of the present day, whilst that portion of
ancient Helvetia which is now known as French Switzerland was conquered by
the Burgundians, who soon became merged in the Latinised population of the
country. The Aar forms approximately a natural frontier between the Alemanni
and the Burgundians.
M. His, who has examined a large number of skulls found in old sepulchres,
distinguishes four types, viz. those of Sitten (Sion), Hohberg, Disentis, and Belair.
These types still exist amongst the present inhabitants of Switzerland. The skull
of Sitten is Celtic : it is long and wide, with a rounded top. The skull of Hohberg
is long and narrow, and resembles the skulls discovered in Roman tombs. The
skull of Belair is of middling length, and is Burgundian ; the square skulls of
Disentis are Alemannic. This latter type prevails throughout Switzerland as well
as in the whole of Southern Germany.
No notable changes have taken place in the population of Switzerland since
the great migration, except that there has been an expansion in the direction of the
mountain valleys, which were not formerly cultiviited. The descendants of the
ancient Rhaetians, who formerly inhabited the lower plains, appear to have been
gradually driven into the hills by conquering Franks and Alemanni. It is said
that the valley of the Reuss, in the canton of Uri, was occupied by German
settlers onlj^ in the eighth century. Several of the plateaux of the Jura remained
even longer in a state of nature, for the serfs belonging to the monasteries only
settled in these sombre forests towards the close of the tenth century. Sub-
sequently, in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, francs hcihergennts, for the
most part natives of Geneva, settled in the Jura, and, in consideration of their
bringing the land under cultivation, the seigneurs exempted them from the
principal taxes as well as from corporal punishment.
According to medicTcval legends, another ethnical element is said to have become
merged in those which form the bulk of the inhabitants of Switzerland. In many
parts of the Valais there are buildings said to have been erected by Saracens, and
it is asserted that these invaders have left visible traces of their presence amongst
the inhabitants of some of the more remote valleys. This much is certain, that
the Mussulmans made frequent incursions into Switzerland during the tenth
century, say between 936 and 960. They penetrated as far as St. Gall and the
Lake of Constanz ; they occupied the Great St. Bernard aTid other passes leading
from Italy into Switzerland, and levied blackmail upon travellers ; they even
took themselves wives in the country, and some among.<t them no doubt settled
there ; but their numbers were certainly not large enough to exercise an
appreciable influence upon the character of the inhabitants. The supposed
Arabic names of some of the mountains of the Monte Rosa group— such as
Almagel, Allalin, Mischabel— are more easily explained from Italian patois.
THE PEOPLE.
447
Another legend, preserved by the first historians of Switzerland, and put into
excellent verse in Schiller's William Tell, tells us how, in some remote ao-e
Frieslanders from the Baltic established themselves in the actual canton of Schwitz,
which was named after them. These northern colonists are credited with having
first cultivated the Hasli valley, but no historical document hus been forthcomino-
in support of this legend, and the German dialects spoken in Switzerland
contain no trace whatever of the idiom spoken in Friesland. Whether there ever
existed such a person as William Tell or not, the poetical details of his history can
Kg. 311. — The Lanouages of Switzbri.aiid.
Scale 1 : 2,000,400.
SO Miles.
be traced to the Xorth, and they prove that the Alemanni of Helvetia, the Fries-
landers, and Scandinavians possessed a common stock of legends.
The Germnn dialects spoken in Switzerland resemble those in use in the
neighbouring countries of Alsatia, Baden, and Swabia. They are brisker, more
precise, and clearer than the literary language which is gradually superseding them.
Many differences exist between the various dialects, not only as regards pro-
nunciation, but also with respect to antiquated expressions still in use, and the
admission of words of Latin, French, or Italian origin. As a rule, they are charac-
terized by rough gutturals, and the force with which dentals and hissing sounds
are prono\inced.
During the Middle Ages German was spoken in a greater part of Western
Switzerland and the Valais than now, but far less in the Central Alps. The names
448 SWITZERLAND.
of places prove to us that " Romanche " or "Ladin" dialects were then in use,
not only in the whole of the Orisons, but also on the Walen Lake {i.e. Welsh Lake),
in the mountains of Appenzell, and in the Austrian provinces of the Vorarlherg
and the Tyrol. Graduallj' encroached upon by German, these dialects of Latin, with
which are mixed a few old Rhsetian words, and which have had a printed literature
since the sixteenth century, survive only by force of habit or, in a few villages of
the Grisons, by local patriotism. Nearly all the inhabitants now speak German or
Italian in addition to one of the local patois used in the two upper valleys of the
Rhine and in the Engadine. A few villages purely German are surrounded by
Romanche territory. They were founded by Frederick Barbarossa to protect the
pusses of the Alps. German, moreover, is spoken on the southern slopes of the
Bernese Alps, in the eastern Valais, and even on the Italian slope of the Alps, to
the south of the Monte Rosa and the St. Gotthard. The small village of Bosco,
in Ticino, is German, and so are the villages in the Italian valley of Pommat.
Italian, on the other hand, is spoken in the two villages of Stalla and Marmels, to
the north of the Julier Pass, on a tributary of the Rhine.
The limit of French does not coincide, like that of Italian, with a range of
mountains. On the contrary, French has almost everywhere crossed the Jura,
which one might suppose would form its natural boundary. In the canton of
Neuchatel and in the Bernese Jura the dialect of Franche-Comte is spoken, whilst
farther south we hear a Provencal patois. In the Valais a French dialect, very
like that of Auvergne, is spoken as far as the transversal range which bounds the
valley of Herens, or Erin, on the east. In the canton of Fribourg French extends
beyond the river Sarine to the foot of the Alps. In the Bernese Jura it is spoken
as far as the banks of the Lake of Bienne (Biel), excepting only in a narrow slip
extending along the foot of the Jura to the north of Chavannes. The number of
French-speaking Swiss has slightly increased, as compared with those talking
German.*
Fribourg, which was founded by a Count of Ziihringen on French soil, was
originally a German town, but French prevails there now, German bein"g only
spoken in the lower town. It is said that in families where the children speak
both languages perfectly, French, in course of time, supersedes the German, no
doubt because French is easier and clearer. Nor must we lose sight of the fact
that French patois are only spoken in the villages, whilst the inhabitants of the
town speak literary French with more or less purit)\ In German Switzerland,
on the other hand, most of the patois have a literature of their own, and are
spoken side by side with High German even in the towns. French thus enjoys
the advantages which result from greater uniformity and cohesion, which enable
it to resist effectually the centralizing tendencies emanating from Bern.
• Languages spoken in Switzerland :—
Families. p ^ , 1860.
1870. ''" ^™'^- Per Cent.
German .... 384,.538 69-16 69-50
Fren h . . . . 13:i,f)7.'> 23-98 23 37
Italian .... 30,079 6-69 6-03
Romanche .... 8,779 1-17 1-69
THE PEOPLE.
449
Differences of race and language have influenced but slightly the religious
tenets held by the people, in spite of what certain authors may assert. Feudal
influences, rivalries between towns, conflicting interests, and the continual wars
between the cantons are quite sufiicient to account for the religious divisions
which grew up at the time of the Eeformation and exist to the present day. The
French cantons of Vaud and Neuchatel are almost exclusively inhabited by
Fig. 312. — Costumes in Uri.
Protestants ; Geneva is pretty equally divided between the rival confessions ;
Fribourg and Valais are Catholic. It was Geneva, a town in French Switzerland,
which merited during many years the epithet of " Protestant Rome ; " whilst
another French town, Fribourg, sheltered the Jesuits, and still remains, with
Luzern, a German town, the stronghold of Roman Catholicism. On the other
hand, the German cantons of Bern, Basel, Zurich, and several others are Protestant.
68
450
SWITZERLAND.
Fig. 313.— Costumes in Fribouro.
St. Gallen, which has been formed out of a large number of miniature states, has a
mixed population, whilst the four ancient Forest Cantons are wholly Catholic.
THE PEOPLE. 461
It is said that in the canton of Appenzell there exist striking physical differences
between the Protestant inhabitants of Outer Rhoden and the Catholics of Inner
Rhoden. These 1 itter are less tall than other Germans of Switzerlimd ; they are
of elighter build, have brighter eyes, and a freer gait. As to the Romanches of
the Grisons, their villages are partly Protestant, partly Catholic. The Italians of
Ticino are Catholics, but those of the valley of Bregaglia belong to the Reformed
Church. Upon the whole, the Protestants are in the majority, three-fifths of the
total population, and the three most important cantons, Bern, Ziirich, and Vaud,
being of that confession. Of the few thousand Jews nearly a third live in the
canton of Aargau.*
In spite of difference of race, language, religion, local customs and institutions,
the Swiss of the various cantons possess many features in common which distinguish
them from other natives of Europe. As compared with their neighbours, and more
especially with those on the southern slopes of the Alps, they are certainly not
distinguished by beauty of face or noble bearing. They do not shine by brilliant
qualities or seductive manners, but they are powerful. The best-known type of a
Swiss is a man with largely sculptured features, broad chest, of a rather heavy
gait, with bright eyes and strong fists. The Swiss is slow, but tenacious. He
does not allow sudden fancies to turn him aside from anything he has undertaken
to carry out, but in case of need he knows f)erfectly how to utilise the ideas of
others. In all he undertakes he looks to practical results, and he has certainly
succeeded in winning for himself a greater amount of substantial liberty than most
other Europeans. Amongst all nations the Swiss has most nearly realised the
ideal of democratic institutions.
• Beligioug confessionB of Switzerland (1870): — Protestants, 1,666,347, or 69 per cent.; Roman
Catholics, 1,084,369, or 406 per cent. ; Dissenters, 11,436, or 04 per cent. ; Jews, 6,996, or 026 per cent.
CHAPTER VII.»
TOPOGRAPHY.
HE Swiss are largely indebted to nature for their political inptitu-
tions and national independence. Mountains, lakes, and tortuous
■valleys have done as much as stout hearts and strong arms to place
them in the front rank of free nations. During the Middle Ages
nearly every community whose territory was enclosed by swamps,
forests, or mountains managed to govern itself, but nowhere except in Switzerland
did these natural defences prove strong enough to enable the population to maintain
their independence.
Legendary history fixes upon the central region of the Alps as the birthplace
of the Helvetian Confederation. Within this natural fortress, which was bounded
on three sides by snow-clad mountains, at that time not crossed by roads, and pro-
tected on the fourth by a tempestuous lake, passed all those events which are related
in the legend of William Tell. There, on the meadow of Rlitli, three Switzers,
the fathers of the fatherland, swore to be independent. The men of TJri, Schwitz,
and Unterwalden not only enjoyed the advantage of inhabiting a country which
could be easily defended, but they were also morally fit for the task that devolved
upon them. The sons of colonists who had brought those wide vallej^s under
cultivation, they were animated by .a spirit of liberty, and possessed that audacity
which appears to animate the pioneers of all countries who are the builders of
their own fortunes, and issue triumphantly from a struggle with nature. The
name of Schwitz, which was subsequently adopted for the whole country, signifies,
according to Gatschet, " clearing the ground by fire," and this recalls the forcible
manner in which these colonists took possession of the land which subsequently
.they held against all comers.
Victorious in " three or four small battles of everlasting memory," it was an
easy thing for these Alpine mountaineers to find allies amongst the towns and
nobles who held the hills and the plains, whilst on the southern slopes of the Alps
they increased their territories by conquest. The Swiss cantons originally con-
stituted themselves so as to form a geographical region, defended in the south and
• All statements of population refer to the year 1870, except when otherwise expressed.
TICINO. 458
east l)y the Alps, and in the west by the parallel ridges of the Jura. The Rhine,
in the north, formed a boundary which it was easy to cross, but the Black Forest
and the plateau of Swabia restricted intending invaders to a few roads, besides
which the intestine dissensions of Germany proved at all times the surest safe-
guard of the Swiss cantons. The fact that the Swiss held the upper courses of
rivers descending into Italy, France, and Germany enabled them to render
services to their neighbours, if so inclined, or to play them off against each
other.
The mountains have insured the independence of Switzerland, but the bulk of
the population nevertheless lives in the plain. The region extending from the
Lake of Geneva to the Lake of Constanz, and from the foot of the Alps to the foot
of the Jura, forms only the fourth part of Switzerland, as far as area is concerned ;
but nearly its whole population, wealth, and industry are concentrated there.*
The principal towns rise in this plain, and the most important highways of
commerce intersect it. Differences of race and customs disappear more rapidly
there than in the Alpine valleys, but still they exist. Of all countries of Europe
Switzerland presents the greatest diversity in the aspect of its towns, every one
of which possesses some feature of originality, and differs from all others.
The towns on the southern slope of the Alps, with their campaniles and
coloured houses, are quite Italian in their aspect, liellinzoua (2,501 inhabitants), on
the Ticino, which was formerly held in subjection by the people of Uri, Schwitz, and
Unterwalden, is the least gay amongst the three alternate capitals of the canton of
Ticino. Locarno (2,667 inhabitants), which occupies a picturesque position at the
upper end of the Lago Miiggiore and at the mouth of the Maggia valley, is the lowest
town of Switzerland (653 feet), and the air we breathe there is of the balmiest.
Lugano (6,024 inhabitants), 230 feet higher, but more favourably situated for com-
merce, is in the midst of the rich fields of the Sotto-Cenere, and has become the most
populous town of the canton. It is one of those towns of Europe which attract
most strangers, and they meet there with beautiful scenery, the blue waters of a
lake, luxuriant vegetation, and picturesque villages perched upon the hillsides.f
Area (exclusive of Lakes
and Glaciers].
8q. M.
• Alps 8,983
riain 4,0S2
Jura 1,669
t Ticiiio(m Gemian and French TewiH).— Area, 1,0S8 square miles; population (1870), 119,620 (1876)
121,768, almost without exception lioman Catholics. Gemian is spoken in the village of Bosco ; Italian,
more or less pure, throughout the rest of the canton. Ticino includes the valleys of the Ticino,
Veriasca, and Slaggia, which flow into the Lago Maggiore, as well as a portion of the fertile basin of the
Lake of Lugano, which is separated from the rest of the canton by the Pass of Monte Cenere (3,775 feet).
The principal jiasses leading into Northern Switzerland are those of the St. Gotthard and the Lukmanier.
At the foot of the former is the village of Airolo. The northern jwrtion of the canton is Alpine, the
southern Italian, in its chai-acter. Exixirts -.—Cattle, silk, straw mats, (cheese, timber, chestnuts, snails, ,
and pot-stone. Thousands of the inhabitants annually leave their homes and make a living as chestnut-
roasters, ehocolate-inakfrrs, masons, or bricklayers in Lombardy and elsewlicre. Most of the Italian ice
and loffee 8hop-keci)ers in London are Ticinese. The principal towns are Lugano, Locarno, and
Belli nzona.
Popnlntion
(1870).
Density.
(In. toaSq. Mile).
809,631
1,406,856
438,014
90
345
262
454 SWITZERLAND.
In the upper valleys of the Rhone, on the French slope of Switzerland, we only
meet with small villages. Briey (Brigue, 1,076 inhabitants), at the foot of the
Siraplon, is a bustling place, and, owing to its many old towers with sparkling
roofs, has something Eussian in its aspect. Visp (Viege, 723 inhabitants) is a
favourite resort of tourists (see p. 399). Leuk (Loueche, 1,220 inhabitants) is
famous on account of its saline waters. Sion (Sitten, 4,895 inhabitants), on the
Rhone, the capital of the ancient Seduni and the principal town in the canton of
Valais,* is an old Gallo-Roman city, commanded by two ruined castles, one of
them, though only dating back to the Middle Ages, being known by the Roman
name of Valeria. Martigny (Martinach, 1,490 inhabitants), at the foot of the
Great St. Bernard, is a place of considerable strategical importance. 8t. Maurice
(1,666 inhabitants), known up to the thirteenth century as Agaunum, is no less
so, for it defends the gorge through which the Rhone enters the alluvial plain
extending to the Lake of Geneva.
Not far from St. Maurice, within the canton of Vaud,t is the wealthy
village of Bex (3,804 inhabitants), with productive salt works, and one of the
favourite resorts of foreigners, who take the baths or breathe the invigorating
forest air. Foreign visitors have likewise contributed towaxds the prosperitj'
of towns or villages like Montreux, Clarens, and Vevey (7,887 inhabitants),
which stand on the northern side of the Lake of Geneva. The beauty of this
lake, within whose placid waters are mirrored the surrounding mountains, and
the mild climate, have naturally attracted many foreigners to this favoured
corner of Switzerland, and towns like Vevey are quite cosmopolitan in their
character.
Lausanne (26,520 inhabitants), the capital of the canton, occupj'ing a hill about
the centre of the lake, commands as fine a prospect as the towns higher up, and,
like them, it annuully attracts swarms of visitors. But, in addition to this, it is a
• Valais {m Gerjnan 7r««;»).— Area, 2,026 square miles; population (1870), 96,887, (1876) 100,490,
nearly all Eonian Catholics. The canton includes the valley of the Rhone, from its source down to the
Lake of Geneva. It is hounded in the north by the Bernese Alps, in th(! south by Alpine ranges, culmi-
nating in the Monte Rosa. 'J he Furka Pass leads from the head of the Rhone into the valley of the
Reuss, and to the northern foot of the St. Gotthard. The Grinisel and Oemmi Passes, the latter above
Leuk, and certainly one of the finest in Switzerland, connect the Valais with Northern Switzerland, and
the Nufcnen, Simplon, and Great St. Bernard with Italy. The products ar,: wine, walnuts, cherries, cattle,
sheep, goats, cheese, iron, argentiferous lead, sulphur, anthracite, and a little gold in the sand of the rivers.
About two-thirds of the inhabitants speak French, one-third German, and a few Romanche. The Valais
joined the Confederation in 1597. 'Ihe principal towns are Brieg, Leuk (Loufeche), Sion, Martigny, and
St. Maurice.
t Valid (in German /fV/rfd).— Area, 1,244 sqnare miles; population (1870), 231,700, (I87C) 242,4S9. In
1870 there were 211,686 Protestants, 17,592 Catholics, and 610 Jews. French is spoken almo.st through-
out. The canton extends along the northern shore of the Lake of GJeneva as far as the Lake of
Neuchatel, and beyond the Jura to the French frontier. The greater part of the coimtry is hilly and of
exceeding fertility. It produces corn, tobacco, fruit, chestnuts, walnuts, wine. The breeding of cattle
and dairy farming are important. The mineral kingdom furnishes coal and salt. There are iron works,
where ores from the Bernese Jura are smelted, and watchmaking is carried on in the Jiu'a, but other
branches of industry are hardly known. Much has been done for popular education within the last forty
years. Up to 1803 Vaud belonged to the canton of Bern ; since then it has been an independent member
of the Confederation. 'J he principal towns are Bex and Aigle, in the Rhone valley ; Vevey, Lausanne,
Merges, and Nyon, on the Lake of Geneva ; and Yverdun, on the Lake of Kcuchatel.
GENEVA.
455
busy commercial place, upon which several lines of railway converge, and the seat
of the principal Court of App3al of the Confederation. It grows rapidly, and at
Fig. 314. — The Eastkhn Extremitt of the Lake of Geneva.
Scale 1 : 80,000.
.[^««s,^^^;^ //•'.•?
^
IM-328
492.«RS oVQi o&6loec
The sfaadtng expretwes i lie depth of Uie Lake.
1 Ujie.
no distant time will form one town with its port of Ouehy, with which a railway,
having a very steep gradient, connects it.
Qeaeca (Genice in French, Gni/ in German, 67,357 inhabitants, including the
456
SWITZERLAND.
suburbs) occupies an excellent geographical position at the lower extremity of the
Lake of Geneva,* where the Rhone issues from it, and is joined by the Arve.
Upon it converge uU the roads which connect Central Germany with Southern
Fig. 315. — Geneva.
Scale 1 : 35,000.
Half a MUc
France, for it is there that the gap between the Alps and the Jura permits of an
• Geneva. --Area, 108 square miles; population (1870), 93,1P5, (1876)99,352. In 18711 there were
47,8'i8 Catholics, 43,638 Protestants, and 961 Jews. Tlie canton inclutles the town and the surround-
ing country. The soil is not fertile, but hy perseverance it has been converted into a flourishing garden.
Kearly one-half of the cultivated area is planted with vines.
■■4
H
m
H
o
?!
W
O
GENEVA. 467
easy passage. Geneva is the natural mediator between Lyons, lower down on the
Rhone, and Central Europe. It is almost matter for surprise that this city, which
has 80 frequently been chosen for international meetings, should to this day
remain the " greatest amongst the small towns " of Europe. But the rigorous
winters, the cold northerly winds, or Uses, the fogs which frequently hang over
the country, and the small area capable of cultivation, sufficiently account
for the slow growth of the population. At present only a single line of rail-
way passes the town, namely, that which connects Lyons with Bern and Basel.
No branch lines have yet been constructed to Annecy, to the foot of Mont
Blanc, or to the Jura, and for the present there is little prospect of their being
built.
Geneva, which became the capital of a civitm in the fourth centurv, has
occupied for ages a position quite exceptional. Restricted to its narrow terri-
tory and overshadowed by a mountain which it could not even call its own,
the city remained for a long time a republic of exiles. Calvin disciplined its
citizens in his repellent fashion, and strangers differing from them met with
no friendly reception. The men who governed it were for the most part
descendants of French or Italian refugees, whom religious differences had
driven from their homes, and they sought above all things to keep up the
energy and the spirit which bad dictated ihe doings of their forefathers.
But this small body of men, so remarkable on account of its exclusiveness,
was equally so for its love of study and intellectual vigour. Geneva, during
the last three centuries, has produced more men of eminence in science and
literature than any other town of equal size. It was the birthplace of Jean
Jacques Rousseau, of Horace de Saussure, of Necker, Sismondi, Topffer, and
Pradier, and some of its families have almost become scientific dynasties. Many
amongst the famous children of Geneva may perhaps be claimed also by the
Parisians, amongst whom they found a second home ; but, for all that, the Swiss
city has at all times been distinguished for its patronage of education and science.
Its schools are among the best of the country ; its newly founded university
occupies an honourable position ; there are valuable natural-history collections and
many learned societies, including a geographical one. The " city of Calvin,"
which is just now erecting a sumptuous monument in honour of a Duke of
Brunswick, might certainly be called upon to place an expiatory memorial
upon the spot where Michael Servetus, the illustrious Spaniard, was burnt at the
stake.
Geneva is no lonjrer tlie " Rome of Protestantism." Its old walls have fallen ;
its ramparts have been converted into wnlks or sumptuous streets ; new roads,
lined by country houses, extend in all directions, and join the former villages of
Plainpalais and Carouge to the city. The time when the whole of the alluvial
peninsula between the Arve and the Rhone will be covered with houses is fust
approaching. The "old Genevese" now constitute only a minority in their own'
town, which has become one of the most cosmopolitan cities of Europe, within
which reside about one-fourth of the foreigners who remain during the winter in
69
458 SWITZERLAND.
Switzerland.* Geneva, though its population is now double what it was some years
ago, has unfortunately lost the two great branches of industry which carried its
fame into all parts of the world, viz. the manufacture of jewellery and watches.
France and the United States, which formerly obtained these articles from the
workshops of Geneva, are now able to supply their own wants by home manufac-
ture, and many of the Genevese masters have been ruined.f The Arve and the
Rhone are capable of supplying motive power to an almost unlimited number of
factories, but have not yet been utilised (see p. 424). As a place of commerce
and money market Geneva possesses considerable resources.
Geneva owes its importance to the vicinity of France ; but, as long as Italy
remained the centre of civilised nati-ons, the most populous town of Switzerland
naturally existed in a different part of the country. Aventicum, a Celtic town,
having as patroness a deity named Aventia, became the capital, and its geogra-
phical position justifies the selection made. It stood on the shore of the Lake of
Morat, or Murten, which was more extensive then, in a depression of the undu-
lating plain which separates the Alps from the Jura. It was nearer to the Lake of
Geneva than to the northern frontier of Helvetia, and the Romans were able to
reach it from Agaunum (St. Maurice, in the Rhone valley) in two or three days'
march. At it they established the centi'al custom-house for the whole of the
eastern frontier of Gaul. The Alemanni destroyed the town, and there now only
remain a few walls covered with shrubs, two towers, pavements, statuettes, mosaics,
and inscriptions. The surrounding country, which was amongst the best culti-
vated in Helvetia, became one of the most barren, and in the Middle Ages was
known as Uchtland ; that is, " fallow land." Since then a new town, Avenches, has
been built upon the hills overlooking the site of ancient Aventicum, and numerous
villages have sprung up in the environs. To the north-east of it, on the shores of
the lake, is Morat (Murten, 2,328 inhabitants), still enclosed by a turreted wall,
and famous on account of the defeat inflicted upon Charles the Bold of Burgundy
in 1476. To the south-east is Fribourg (Freiburg, 10,904 inhabitants), the capital
of the canton of the same name, and, like Murten, near the linguistic boundary.
Its Gothic cathedral and gabled towers command the deep valley of the Sarine
(Saane), here spanned by a suspension bridge nearly 1,000 feet in length, and
• Population of Geneva, according to M. P. L. Dunant: —
1843. 1S70.
Natives of the canton 58 per cent. 38-4 per cent.
„ other Swiss cantons .... 20 „ 226 „
Foreigners . . . . . . . . 21 „ 390 „
Foreigners residing in Geneva : —
ISfiO. 1870.
French and Savoyards ...... 11,579 14,251
Germans 1,509 2,038
Italians 600 763
Others 500 1,127
14,188 18,179
1865. 1876.
t Master jewellers and watchmakers .... 226 206
Workmen employed by them 1,586 1,028
NEUCHATEL.
459
passing high above the river, the houses, and fields. Another bridge crosses the
neighbouring gorge of the Gotterin at a height of 318 feet.*
From Yverdun (5,889 inhabitants), near the southern extremity of the Lake of
Neuchatel, diverge all the roads which lead to the Lake of Geneva. It is the
modern representative of the Gallic city of Ebrodunum, and fourteen centuries
ago the lake, from which it is now separated by a swampy plain, still washed its
walls. The castle of Granson, three miles to the north, defended the road
Fig 316. — MoRAT (Mukten) and its Lakb.
Scale 1 : 100,001.
1 HUe.
which passed between the Jura and the western shore of the lake, and near it
Charles the Bold suffered a terrible defeat in 1476.
Neuch&tel,^ the capital of a canton, occupies a commanding position near the
• Frilmury (Freilmrg).— Area, 664 square miles; population (1870), 110,832, (1876) 113,952. In 187(1
there were 93,051 ('atholiea and 16,819 Protestants. About 7-i per cent, of the inhabitants speak French.
The canton is drained by the Saane, or Sarine. The south-eastern portion is mountainous, but none of
the summits reach the anow-line. The greater portion is hilly, with rich meadows and pasture-lands, and
Oruyfrre cheeses are known throughout the world. 'I'he cereals grown generally cover the requirements
of the population. Amongst the products are timber, wine. fruit, peat, and coal. Straw-plaiting is carried
on extensively, and there are tan-yards, saw-mills, a glass factory, and a beet-sugar factory. Watches
are manufaetureil at Murtcn. In edu(-ational matters the canton is very backward, except in the district
of Jlurten, which is inhabited by CJerman Protestants. The principal towns are Fribourg, Murten, and
Bulle.
t Seuehalel (Neuenburg).— Area, 312 squ.are miles ; population (1870), 97,284, (1878) 99,729. In 1870
thfre were 84,334 Protestants and 1 1,31.5 Catholics. Kighty-seven percent, of the inhabitants speak French.
The canton lies between the eastern shore of the Lake of Neuchatel and the I'renih frontier. It is iiiter-
■ectcd by four parallel ridges of the Jura, covered with forests or poor herbage. Wine is grown along
460 SWITZEELAND.
point of junction of the roads and railways which skirt the shores of the lake and
run through the valley of Travers into France. It is a fine town, the houses in
its modern quarter being for the most part built of a light-coloured limestone.
The wealthy landowners and nobles of the canton form a sort of aristocracy, but
Neuchatel is justly proud of its schools, its museum, and its library. Chaux-de-Fonds
(19,930 inhabitants), in a valley of the Upper Jura, close to the French frontier,
and about 3,300 feet above the sea, is the great industrial centre of the canton,
and its most populous town. In the sterile mountains, where the soil refused to
yield subsistence to the men who dwelt upon it, it became necessaiy to look to
industrial occupations as a means of subsistence. The first watch was made at
Chaux-de-Fonds in 1680, and since then that branch of industry has grown
immensely, and is carried on also at Le Lode (10,334 inhabitants), and in many
villages in the vicinity. The district remains to the present d ly the chief centre
of watchmaking in the world, and although the number of workmen has recently
decreased, the number of watches turned out is 1 irger than ever.* Ironically the
natives compare the " village " of Chaux-de-FonJs with the " city " of Neuchatel.
A portion of the manufacturing district of the Jura lies within the canton of
Bern, which extends from the highest summits of the Alps to the frontiers of
France.! The capital of this canton and of the entire Confederation (3,600 inha-
bitants) occupies an advantageous site half-way between the Rhone and the Rhine,
and on the Aar, which affords the easiest access to the Oberland. During the
the foot of the Jura. Cheese forms an article of export, hut two-thirds of the corn required have to be
imported. The manuf icturing industry is of importance. Cotton stuffs, lace, and watches are the
chief articles proiluced. Tiie principal towns are Neuchatel, Chau.t-de-Fonds, and Le Locle. The
principality of Neuchatel originally belonged to Burgundy. Rudolf of Habsburg ceded it in 1288 to
John of Chalons. In 1707, the reigning prince having died without heirs, the Estates acknowledged the
claims of Frederick of Trussia, and Neuchatel remained a Prussian dependency until 18.57. As such it
became a member of the Swiss Confederation in 1815.
* In 1870 there were 4,.505 watchmakers at Chaux-de-Fonds; in 1877 only 4,172. About ',450,000
watches are annually manufactured in the Swiss Jura, their estimated value being £1,200,000, or
16s. each.
t itcra.— Area, 2,660 square miles ; population ( 1 870), 506,455, ( 1876) 528,670. In 1 870 there were 436,:!07
Protestants, 66,0 1 5 Roman Catholics, and 1 ,400 Jews About one-seventh of the inhabitants speak French.
Geographically this canton, next to that of the Grisons, ihe largest of Switzerland, consists of several
well-defined regions. The Bernese Oberland, with its glaciers and lakes (including those of Brienz and
Thun), has been fully described elsewhere. Cattle-breeding and dairy -farming are the prinftipal occupa-
tions of the inhabitants. The valleys of Simmen and Saanen —the one tributary to the Lake of Thun,
the other to the river Aar — are famous for their fine breeds. Wood-carving employs many of the inha-
bitants during winter. The principal towns or villages of the Oberland are Thun, Intcrlaken, Brienz,
Meiringen, and Saanen. The Mitteltand, or hilly region, is intersected by the rivers .-Var and I]mmen, and
is for the most part a fertile region. It extends north into the Upper Aargau, the most productive
district of the canton. The Emmen Thai is famous for its cheese, its wooden hi. uses, its wrestlers, and
its floods. The principal towns in this section of the canton are Bern, the capital, on the Aar ; Langnau
and Burgdorf, (.n the Emmen ; and Wangcn, in the Upper Aargau. The Seeland (see page 425) is drained by
the rivers Aar and Zihl. the latter being the effluent of the Lake of Biel, or Bienne. Lastly, there is the
Bernese Jura, comparatively sterile, but a busy seat of industry. Its leading towns are Moutiera and
Porentruy. The canton of Bern is wealthy, no doubt, but in no other part of Switzerland are the contrasts
between rich and poor so marked. Cattle-breeding, dairy-farming, and in the plain the cultivation of
com and potatoes, employ the bulk of the inh.abitants. About l.'i0,000 tons of iron are produced annually
in the Jura, and the manufacture of linens and other textile fabrics, lace, watches, carved woodenware,
leather, &c., is of some importance The national costume of the Bernese is amongst the most picturesque
to be met with in Switzerland.
BERN.
461
more
wars of the Middle Ages this position entailed great strategical advantages,
especially as the town stands upon a peninsula boundtd on three sides by the steep
banks of the river. A wall built across the neck of this peninsula thus sufficed to
protect the inhabitants in case of attack. Bern, unfortunately, is not favoured by
Fig. 817.— Bkrk.
Scale i : &0,000.
. 1 MUe.
the climate, and the extremes of temperature are greater here than in any other
town of Switzerland.* It is much exposed to the winds, and the death rate is very
high, e.sj)€cially in the poorer quarters. The damp tortuous street following the
• Kxtrr^m(>8 of tnmperature at Bern, 97 2 and —22' Kalir. Difference, 119-2° Fahr. Mean annual
tom|MTatiire, 40" Kalir.
462
SWITZERLAND.
windings of the Aar is one of the most insalubrious places in Europe, and maladies
reign there permanently as in a hospital. The wretched streets of this quarter con-
trast painfully with the palatial buildings which rise among the gardens to the west
of the city, and whence may be enjoyed the ftne panorama presented by the mean-
dering Aar and the snow-clad Alps rising in the distance above verdure-clad hills.*
Amongst the most remarkable buildings of the town are the Federal Palace,
Fig. 318. — View of Bern.
erected in 1852 — 57, the Gothic Minster, the Hospital, the Post Office, and the
bold Nydeck Bridge which leads to the famous Bear Pit. Bern is the seat of a
university, possesses several libraries and museums, but cannot compare with
Ziirich as regards scientific as.sociations. Amongst its famous children more
warriors are met with than men of learning : of the latter A. von Haller (died
1777), the poet and physician, is perhaps the most widely known.
• Death rate of Bern (1855 — 67), 35 2 per 1,000 inhabitants; in the upper quarters of the town, r2'6
per 1,000; in the Aarborger-Gasse, 74 8 per 1,000.
BEEN.
468
Bern, which according to some etymologists is a corruption of the Celtic name
of Verona, whilst others derive it from Bdren ("bears"), still preserves a medieval
physiognomy in its interior quarters. The pomp and strength of feudal Switzer-
land are called up before our mind when we look at the solid walls of the houses,
at the buttresses which support them, at the "rows" similar to those of Chester,
at steep-peaked roofs, and fountains ornamented with quaintly sculptured figures.
We can almost fancy these streets being filled with men-at-arms flushed with
victory or returning from the pillage of a village, waving their banners and blow-
ing their horns. Bern has a few factories on the banks of the Aar, industrial
suburbs beyond the public walks, and extensive quarries near the neighbouring
Fig. 319. — Imteiii.akkn.
Scale 1 : 70.000.
IMile.
Village of Ostermundingen, but the great industries of the country, the manufacture
of cheese, linens, and cloth, and straw-plaiting, are principally carried on in the
wealthy communes of the Emmenthal, at Lanr/naii (6,214 inhabitants), Sumim-ald,
and Burtjdorf (Berthoud, 5,078 inhabitants), each of which towns has its agencies
throughout Switzerland and in many foreign countries. In the old castle of
Burgdorf Pestalozzi established his educatiofial institute (1798 — 1804). At Thun
(Thoune, 4,62y inhabitants), where the Aar escapes from the lower lake of the
Oberland, there are likewise a f^w factories, but that town is important rather
because so many travellers annually p;iss through it on their road to Interluken,
within ea.sy reach of the delightful scenery of the Oberland. It is the military
capital of Switzerland, the seat of the Military College of the Confederation, and
464
SWITZERLAND.
of an arsenal. It is a quaint city, with " rows," overlooked by an old castle, now
converted into a prison, and the parish church built upon the summit of a
commanding hill. In the vicinity of Bern and in the Alpine valleys of the
canton there are many wealthy and populous villages, some of them remarkable
on account of their huge wooden houses ornamented with sculptures.
Interlaken, on the alluvial plain of the Bodeli, which separates the Lakes of
Thun and Brienz, is one of the favourite haunts of tourists. It is named after a
convent ("inter lacus "), suppressed in 148 1 in consequence of the immoral life
led by the nuns, and now occupied as a school. The climate is mild, and the
environs abound in delightful walks. The valley of the Lauterbrunnen, in the
south, leads up to the famous falls of the Staubbach and Schmadribach. The icy
summits of the Jungfrau tower majestically beyond it. The glacier of Grindel-
wald is within easy reach, and a steamer rapidly conveys the traveller to Brienz,
Fig. 320.— BlEt (BlENKE^ AND THE NeW BeD OF THE AaR.
Scale 1 : 100.000.
E. of Paris
7*" 20 E.. of Cp.
C. Perron
1 MUe.
with its pretty boating girls, to the Giesshach, and the charming Hasli valley, whose
chief village, Meiringeu, fell a victim to a fearful conflagration in February, 1879.
Biel (in French Bienne, 8,113 inhabitants), favourably situated at the northern
end of the lake named after it, opposite to the mouth of the valley of Suze, which
leads into the Jura, and close to the Aar navigation, has become a great place of
commerce, and its inhabitants speak of it as a Zuhinftstadt ; that is, a town having
a future in store for it. Quite the reverse might be said of Solotltiini (Soleure,
7,054 inhabitants),* lower down on the Aar, which reflects its turrets and crenel-
lated walls, and almost deserves to be called a " town of the past ; " whilst Olfen
* Solothurn.— Area, .Sns (kjuare miles; population (1870), 7-1,713, (1876) 77,803. In 1870 there
were 62,072 Catholics and 12,44S IVotcstants German is spoken throughout. The canton includes a
portion of the fertile valley of the Aar, which abounds in orchards, and produces com for exportation,
whilst the Jura, in the west, is sterile. There ar.^ valuable quarries of marble, limestone (at Olten), and
milLstoncs, as well as iron mines. Silk-weaving is carried on on the northern slope of the Jura, in the
so-called " Black Boys' Land." The only towns of not ■ are Solothurn and Olten.
BASEL.
465
(2,998 inhabitants), still lower down in the valley, has become an important railway
centre, and increases annually in commerce and industry. Hosiery, glass, and
parquetry are manufactured, and there are huge railway workshops for the con-
struction of locomotives and rolling stock. The railway which pierces the Jura in
the tunnel of Hauenstein, and runs past Liedal (3,873 inhabitants) to Basel, places
Olten in communication with the railway systems of France and Germany.
Basel* (44,834 inhabitants), by its commerce, history, and general influence
upon the economical condition of Switzerland, has much in common with Geneva.
Fig. 321.— Basel (Bale).
Scale 1 : 50,000.
S'^tS' E.01 Pari»
36 KafGr.
. Half a Mile.
Admirably situated upon a terrace at the great elbow of the Ehine, where that
river enters upon the plain of Alsatia, it occupies commercially the same position
towards Germany and Northern France as that hold by Geneva with reference to
Southern France. Nay, its market is even more extensive, and two-thirds of the
• Batel (in French BAle) forms two cantons, viz. Basel Town (14 square miles, 51,51.5 inhabitants in
1876) and Bawl Country (163 square miles, 55,548 inhahitants). The capital of the latter is Liestal. ITie
country is hillv and fertile. A^culture, dairy-farming, and horticulture are carried on with success.
'ITie silk industry is very important, and there are also cotton, paper, and woollen mills, and tobacco
manufuetori(». liasel Coiuilry, tired of the pressure exercised hy the wealthy town, severed its connec-
tion with it in isa3, and now form." iiu indcixndent canton. It wa.s the lii-st canton to adopt a purely
democratic constitution, but IJusul Town, in spite of its patricians, has since done the sama
466
SWITZERLAND.
imports of Switzerland pass through its custom-house. Its manufactures of silk,
of ribbons, and of chemical products give rise to a very important trade with
foreign countries.* Rich and powerful long before Geneva, Basel, like its
southern rival, became a place of refuge at the time of the Reformation, and one
of the great centres of scientific research. Erasmus and Q*]cokmpadius taught in
its schools, and Holbein resided there for many years. Euler, Bernoulli, and
other natives of the town rank amongst the most famous men of Switzerland,
and some of its old families rival the Genevese " dynasties " in the number of
men of merit belonging to them. Old customs have been more strictly pre-
served at Basel than at Geneva. Strangers have not yet succeeded in altering
Fig. 322. — POKKENTRUT.
Scale 1 : 60,000.
V41| b of Pari.
il 1,1 V>tn
. ] Mile.
the aspect of the town ; and the natives, who are strict Protestants, form the vast
majority of its inhabitants. Amongst the numerous missionary institutions,
that of Chrishona, in a neighbouring village, is the most considerable. Basel is
reputed to be one of the most important money marts of the world, t but it may
also boast of its university, its scientific collections, its picture gallery, with many
paintings by Hans Holbein, and its library, rich in precious manuscripts. The
Gothic cathedral, built of the beautiful red sandstone abounding in the Vosges,
rises boldly above the Rhine, which flows beneath it. Near it is the famous
• The silk industry employs 40,100 operatives and 6,500 power-looni.s, and the value of the silk
manufactured annually is estimated at £1,600,000.
t In 1875 82 families jjaid property tax on a capital averaging £80,000 each-
AARGAU.
467
chamber in which met the Council of Basel, and which is scrupuloush' preserved
in the condition it was in in the fifteenth century. A sloping bridge will soon
connect Basel Proper with Little Basel, on the opposite bank of the Rhine.
Basel is the natural market of the Bernese Jura, the principal town in which
is Porrentruy (Pruntrut, 5,341 inhabitants), the former residence of the Bishops of
Basel. Near it is the village of Boii/ol, known on account of the pottery manu-
factured there.
Ascending the Rhine, we pass the salt works of Schweizerhall, Augst, Rhein-
Fig. 323.— The CoMFLnENCB of thk Rhine, the Aau, the Ekuss, and the Limmat.
Scale 1 1 300.000.
y'ltOTTottr.
5 Miles.
felden, and Ryburg. Atigsf occupies the site of Augusta Rauracorum, a town founded
by Lucius Munatius Glaucus, which formerly experienced the same amount of com-
mercial prosperity as that enjoyed in our own days by Basel, its fortunate successor.
One-hulf of the village of Augst lies within the canton of Aargau, the capital
of which is situated in the valley watered by the Aar.* Aargau (5,449 inha-
• Aargau (in Frfnch Arijovie). — Area, 543 sqtmre miles; population (1870), 198,875, (1876) 201,567. In
1870 there werD 107, 70:i Protestants, 89,U0 Catholics, and 1,54! Jews. The eanton ineliides the lower
valley of the Aar, which is joined within its boundaries hy the Reu8.s and the Limmat, and extends north
to tho Rhine. It is for the most part hilly and fertile. The products include wine and salt (300,000 cwts.).
There are rotton-niills (■i6-1,000 spindles), dye and print works. Straw-plaiting occupies about 30,000
operatives diirinfi: winter. Much has been done for education. The principal towns are Aargau, Zofingen,
baden, and Keiuuch.
468
SWITZERLAND.
bitants) is not a large town, but its inbabitants are distinguisbed for tbeir culture,
and many industries requiring skill, intelligence, and even a scientific training,
sucb as the manufacture of instruments, are carried on. Eighteen centuries ago,
Vindonissa, at the triple confluence of the Aar, the Limmat, and the Reuss, was
the great strategical centre of the country. It was upon this town that the Roman
roads converged which crossed the Alps from Italy, and the legions stationed
there were favourably placed for supporting those which held the frontiers of the
Rhine and of the Danube. But its very importance led to the destruction of this
stronghold. Several times captured towards the close of the Empire, there now
remain but a few insignificant ruins, and only its name survives in that of the
Fig. 324. — The Lake ok the Four Cantons (Viekwaldbtatteh See).
Scale 1 : 300,000
5Milei
village of Windisch. The wars of the Middle Ages prevented the recon-
struction of this ancient city, but several towns have sprung up in its vicinity,
such as Bnigg, at the mouth of the Boetzberg tunnel ; Schinznach, famous on
account of its sulphurous waters ; and Baden, the hot springs of which were highly
appreciated by the Romans. It is certainly curious that no large town should
have arisen in so favourable a locality. On a hill which rises to the south are
the ruins of the feudal castle of Ilabsburg, the ancestral home of the imperial
familv of Austria.
If we trace the Reuss to the point where it issues from the Lake of the Four
Cantons, we reach Luzern (14,524 inhabitants), the political and commercial
THE FOREST CANTONS. 469
metropolis of primitive Switzerland, and the capital of a large canton.* Its position,
at the lower end of the lake and upon its effluent, is analogous to that of Geneva,
Zurich, and Constanz. Another river, the Little Emme, joins the Reuss about a
mile below Luzem. Turreted waUs surrounding the town, an old lighthouse, or
lucerna, the blue and swift waters of the Reuss, the lake, and the view of the
mountains which enclose it, render Luzern one of the most attractive cities of
Switzerland. The number of strangers who pass through it every summer is very-
great. Luzem, the most Catholic city, was the capital of the Swiss " Sonderbund,"
or " Separatist League," which fought between 1845 and 1847 in favour of the
pretensions of the Jesuits. Its most remarkable monument is a lion carved out of
the solid rock, from a design by Thorwaldsen, and recalls the time when the
Switzers sold themselves as soldiers to the sovereigns of Europe. Though favour-
ably situated, Luzern has litlle commerce or industiy, but, like Ziirich, it expects
great things from the completion of the tunnel through the St. Gotthard.
Sempach, the village rendered famous through the battle fought there on the
9th July, 1386, lies to the north-west of Luzern, on a small lake. Kmmacht and
Wdggis are villages on the Lake of the Four Cantons, and at the foot of the Rigi.
In the three other Forest Cantons t the towns are few in number, and even the
capitals are hardly more than villages. Altorf, or Altihrf (2,724 inhabitants), is
still the simple village as in the legendary age of William Tell ; Stanz (2,070
• Luzern (in French Z«ccr««). — Area, .579 square miles ; population (1870), 1 32,31)8, (I S76) 1 33,:U6. In
1870 there were 128,3(8 Catholics and 3,823 Protestants. The canton includes three distinct regions, viz.
the Gau, in the north, the centre of which is occupied hy the Lake of Sempach ; the country adjoining the
lake of the Four Cantons, together with the valley of the Kcuss ; and the mountain valleys drained by the
Little Emme and its tributaries. The most important of these valleys is known as Entlcbiich. Its
inhabitants depend almost wholly upon dairy -farming for their subsistence, and, like their neighbours in
the valley of the Great Emme, they are expert wrestlers. The mountains bounding these valleys rise to
a height of 7,140 feet, and are covered with turf and aromatic herbs. There are no glaciers in the
canton. Agriculture and dairy-farming are the principal occupations. The soil, almost throughout, is
fertile. There are extensive forests.
t The Forest Cantons, or Vicrwaldstiitte, are Luzem, Schwyz, Uri, and TJnterwalden. Luzem has
been noticed above.
Schwjiz (Schwitz, hence Switzer and Switzerland). — Area, 3.51 square miles; population (1876), 4 ",216,
nearly all Catholics. The canton extends from the Lake of the Four Cantons to that of Ziirich, and may
be described as a platform 2,700 fcct in height, above which rise the naked rocks of the Mythen and other
mountain summits. ITie Rigi lies almost wholly within the limits of the cantons, a plain and the small Lake
of Lowerz separating it from the rest of the canton. The valleys are fertile, the most important amongst
them being those of the JIuota, which flows into the I>ake of the Four Cantons, and of tlie fsihl, a tribu-
tary of the Lake of Ziirich. Clattk-breeding and dairy-f crming are the principal occupations. Silk and
cotton mills have been established by Ziirich manufacturers. The only places of importance are Schwyz
and Gersau.
Uri. — Area, 415 square miles ; population (18761, 16,900, all Catholics. The canton extends from -the
southern bay of the Lake of the Four Cantons up to the St. Gotthard and Furka Passes, and thus includes
the valley of the Keuss, known at its head as Urseren Thai, and all its tributary valleys, with the
famous Muycnthal. Cattle-breeding and dairy- fanning support the majority of the inhabitants. Corn is
grown on about 14,000 acres; forests cover about 42, and glaciers 44 .square miles. Altdorf and Andcnnatt
aie the principal villages. 'ITie Great St. Gotthard railwjjy will travcrae this canton throughout its length.
Unterwiilden extends from the southern shore of the Lake of the Four Cantons, and includes the valleys
of the Samcr Aa and of the X'Ingelberg Aa, the one extending up to the Hiiinig Pass, the other to the
foot of the snow-clad 'i'itlis. Since 1 1 00 UuterwalJuii has formed two cantons, one " nid " (" below "), the
other "ob d<'m \\'ald'' ("above the forest"), whose combined area is 29ci square miles, with a population
(1876) of 27,002 inhabitants, nearly all of whom arc Itoman Catholics. The country is distinguished for
its picturesque scenery. Its meadows and pastures are luxuriant, and cheese (20,000 cwts. annually),
fruit, walnuts, spirits, and rider are exported. Tlie principal villages are Stanz and Sarnen.
470 SWITZERLAND.
inhabitants) and Sarnen (3,720 inhabitants), the capitals of the two half-cantons of
Unterwalden, are merely villages. Bninnen, on the lake and the Axenstrasse,
is one of the most-frequented places on the St. Gotthard road, with large
storehouses. Germu (■2,'4!74 inhabitants), formerly the capital of an inde-
pendent republic, is visited now by a few foreign valetudinarians in search of a
sheltered abode. Schicyz (6,154 inhabitants), at the foot of the Mythen, is a
larger place than either of the above, but the number of inhabitants assigned to
it in the census includes those of several of the villages in the vicinity. It lies
close to the Lake of Lowerz, beyond which is Goldau, built on the debris resulting
from the great landslip which took place in 1806, and buried four villages.
Einsiedlen, the native place of Paracelsus, consists of a few detached hamlets, the
most considerable amongst which has for its centre a famous old abbey, annually
visited by 150,000 pilgrims and tourists. The printing-office there, which limits
itself to the production of religious books, is one of the largest establishments of
that kind in Europe. The great boast of the monks at the abbey is to have
collected, in the ninth century, the most ancient copies then existing of the monu-
mental inscriptions of Rome and Pavia. The gorge of Morgarten, to the south-
west of Einsiedlen, recalls the decisive victory achieved by the Confederated Swiss
in 1315 over the iron-clad knights of Austria — a victory which inspired them
with confidence in themselves.
Zug (4,277 inhabitants), on a lake named after the town, is the capital of a
small canton of great antiquity, but not otherwise remarkable. Cham, a village
on the same lake, has a paper-mill, a cotton-mill, and the extensive establishment
of the Anglo-Swiss Condensed Milk Company.*
Ziiiichf (56,695 inhabitants), the principal town of north-eastern Switzerland,
• Zug. — Area, 92 square miles; po|iulidion (1876), 21,775, nearly all Roman Catholics. The canton
includes ihe country to ihe west, north, and east of the Lake of Zug. together with the valley of the Lorze,
the effluent of the Aegeii Lake. lis surfaee is hilly and fertile. Agriculture and dairy-farming are the
jjrinei|ial occupations, bul there are also cottou-mills. Zug is the capital. The canton joined ihe Con-
federation in 1352.
t Z(i>tc/i.— Area, C66 square miles ; population (1870), 284,786, (18761 294,994. In 1870 there we^e
263,7'. 0 Protestants, 17,972 Catholics, and 504 Jews. The canton includts the greater portion of Ihe
Lake of Ziirieh, together with the land on both sides of it. and extends to the Rhine in the north. The
principal valleys are those of the Limmat, of the Glatt, of the Tiis--, and of the Thiir, all of tlieni tributary
to the Rhine. In addition to the Lake of Ziirieh there are the Greifensce and the Lake of I'haftikon, both
in the valley of the Glatt. The .Schnebelhorn (4,248 feet), on the frontier of St. Gallon, is the highest
summit within the boundariei of the canton, the whole norihern half of which is undulatins?, with fertile
fields, rich meadow lands, and wooded hills. Auriculture is carried on with great care, and the use of
agricultural mnchines general. The land is much subdivided. About 125,000 acres are umier the
plough; 116.0(10 acres consist of meadows; 13,000 acres are planted with vine.s ; and 128,000 acres are
covered with forests. Market gardening is carried on with greater success than elsewhere in Switzerland.
The breeding of cattle and dairy-tanning are of great importance. The mineral kingdom supplies coal,
peat, gypsum, marl, and building stones. Manufacturing indr.slries flourish. The cotton manufacture
employed, in 1871, 66(1,136 spindles, 6,265 powe -looms, and 9, .536 operatives. The manufacture of silk
gives occupation to 18,000 operatives, most of whom work at home. About £2,000,000 worth of silk stuffs
are exported annually, yielding a ]u-olit of no le<8 than £720,000. The woollen and linen industries were
of greater importance than they are now. The machine .shops and foundries (3,563 operatives) are the
most import mt in Switzerland. There are likewise potteries, paper-mills, chemical works, siw, oil, and
gypsum mill-'. Straw-plaiting is principally carried on in the Rafzerfeld. Much has been dune to promole
the education of the people, perhaps more than in any other canton of Switzerland. The principal towns
are Ziirieh, Winterthur, Wiidensweil, Uster, and Horgen. The canton joined the Confederation in 1351,
fifteen years after its Patrician Government had been overthrown by the people.
GLAEUS.
471
at the foot of the Uetliberg, and at the lower end of its lake, where the rivers
Limmat and Sihl effect their junction, is far more accessible than Luzern, and
commands some of the most important natural high-roads. Hence its strategical
importance. It was at Ziirich, on the 3rd Venderaiaire of the year VIII., that
Massena saved France by annihilating the Russian army marching upon Basel.
The city of Zwingli is but little inferior to that of Calvin, as regards the number
of its inhabitants, but it is fur superior to it in the facilities which are offered
by its numerous educational institutions, its Polytechnicum, its university, its
museums and libraries. Zurich makes great efforts to deserve the epithet of
" Athens of Switzerland," which its citizens have bestowed upon it. Scheuchzer,
the first man who studied the physical geography of the Alps in a scientific spirit,
was a native of Ziirich, as was also Lavater, the famous physiognomist. It is a
manufacturing town, too, with silk and cotton mills, foundries, and machine shops.
Steam-engines constructed at Zurich have been exported even to England and to
America. More than half the corn trade of Switzerland is conducted by Zurich
houses, its leather fairs are well attended, and the visits of commercial travellers
are more frequent than in any other town of Switzerland. Zwingli preached in
the old parish church, a basilica of the twelfth century. The silk and cotton
industry enriches also many of the neighbouring towns and villages as far as the
canton of Zug. Wald (5,0-35 inhabitants) and Usfer (5,808 inhabitants), to the
east of Zurich, on the river Aa, which connects the Pfaffikon with the Greifen
Lake, are busy manufacturing centres. The river Aa, which supplies motive
power to the numerous mills of these towns, is popularly known as the " river
of millions." Winterthur (9,404 inhabitants), next to Ziirich the most important
town of the canton, is the modern representative of the Roman station of Vitodurum.
It is ambitiously termed the Liverpool of Switzerland, because it imports so
much cotton. There are, however, few towns of equal size which can boast of
more varied industries, or of a larger number of educational and other public
institutions. Its foundries and machine shops are more especially noteworthy.
Giants * (in French Ghrls, 5,5 1 6 inhabitants) is the capital of a canton and a
busy manufacturing and commercial centre, but in the mountain country of the
Grisons,t which lies beyond it, there are no manufactures, and Cliur (in French
• 0/ffi-w».— Aren, 267 square miles; population (1876), 36,129. In 1870 there were 28,238 Protestants
and 6,8fi8 Cath'>lics. The cmion includes the valley of the Lintli, as fnr as the AValeii Lake, and is
quite Alpine in its chamcter, glaciers covering 5 per cent of its surface. Formerly a land of heidsmen,
it has be<!ome a manufacturing country, cotton and woollen mills and h'Siery mannfacture employing
mort! hands now than dairy-farming or ai^riculluro. Tlie battles of Naeftls (I i')2 and 1388) resulted in
the liberation of the canton from the yoke of Austria.
t Graiibimilm (Orisons).— Area. 2,774 square miles; population (1870), 91,782, (1876) 92,906. In 1870
there were 1)1,887 Proteatanls and 39.843 Roman Catholics. The canton is ihe lurgist in .Sw tzerland,
but very thinly inhabited. It includes the valley of ihe Ujiper Hhim-; thn valley of the U|iper Inn, or
Engadin, separated from the former by the Albula Al[« ; and tlie valleys of Calanca and Misocco, on the
soulhern slope of the Alps, and tiibutary to the Ticino. Only about 5 per cent, of the urea is cultivated
(barley is grown up to 5,810 feet, wheat up to 4,740 feel). Wine is grown around Chur and on tlie
Italian slopes. S<?rieulture and the breeding o( snails (for exportation to Italy) are likewise of some
importance. The mines siip])ly lead, copper, silver, and iron, and there are quarries of marble, alabaster,
and jwt-stones. Amongst ihe fifty mineral springs are I'arasp and St. Moritz.
In the tenth century the Grisons were annexed to the Oerman Empire, and numerous ecclesiastical
472 SWITZERLAND.
Coire, in Italian Coira, in Romaic Quoira, 7,552 inhabitants) is the only town
deserving the name. It is, above all, a place of traffic, for the roads which run
over the Alpine passes of the Spliigen and the Bernardino into Italy, and those
which cross the Julier, Albula, and Fluela Passes into the Engadin, diverge from
it. The cathedral is a remarkable building, said to date back to the eighth
century, and there are also the remains of a Roman tower (Mars in Oculis).
Other places of interest are I/anz, the capital of the Grey League, and Dwentis,
with one of the oldest abbeys in Christendom, founded in the seventh century by
Sigisbert, the Scotch apostle, but burnt, together with its invaluable library, in
1799, by the French, both on the Rhine, and Samaden, St. Moritz, and Tarasp, in
the Engadin. The latter two are famous watering-places. St. Moritz, in the
Upper Engadin, 609 feet above the sea, has acidulous and ferruginous springs,
whilst Tarasp (4,912 feet), in the Lower Engadin, and its neighbourhood, abound
in springs of nearly every kind, including raofettas, or gas springs. At both
places huge hotels have been constructed for the accommodation of visitors. The
villages in the Engadin are generally wealthy, many of the inhabitants having
made their fortunes abroad as pastrycooks or coffee-house keepers.
Descending the Rhine, we pass from the Grisons into the canton of St. Gallen.*
On our left we perceive Ragntz, a famous b.ithing town, supplied from the springs
of Pfiiffers, higher up in the Tamina valley, which here debouches upon the plain
of the Rhine. The only Swiss town in that plain is A/tstdtten (7,575 inha-
bitants). But long before we reach it a road and railway branch off towards the
west at Sargans, and, passing to the south of the Walen Lake, conduct to the
curious old city of Rapperswyl, on the Lake of Zurich, liere crossed by a wooden
bridge. St. Galhn (lt),675 inhabitants), the venerable capital of the canton, lies
to the west, beyond the Alps of Appenzell, in a valley tributary to the Lake of
Constanz. One thousand years ago, in the age of the Carlovingians, the abbey of
^t. Gall was the most famous school of learning in the world. A monk there
and secular lords ruined the wealth of the counlry by tlieir continual quarrels. The people at various
times rose aguinst them, and destroyed the 183 castles which ihey had built. In 1393 the inhabitants of
the Lower Rhine valley, of the Albula valley, and of tlie Eng^idin, fijrmed the League of God's House
(Lia Ca De), at the head of which was the Church of Chur. In 1424 the inhabitants dwelling along the
two head-stre ims of the Rhine ani on the Itjilian slopf formed the Grey League (Lia Giischa, in German
Grauiuiulen, in French Grisons), thus named on account of the grey dress usualh- worn. In 1428—36 the
small villaa'es to the east i.f C'liur, in the Praeligau (Landquirt valley), the ^chanfigger valley (Scana
vicus), and the Davos valley firmed the League of the Ten Courts (Lia Uelias desch drctluras). In 1473
these thr<>e leagues combined and joined the Swiss Confederation Of the inhabitants 30 ppr cent, speik
GeiTnan, 14 percent. lUiiian. and .5(3 per cent. Romaic diaUcts. These latter, however, in additi m lo
their patois, speak in most instances liiher German or Italian.
• St. Gnllen (St. Gall).— Area, 780 pquare miles; population (18"6), I96,8.'?4. In 1870 there were
116,060 Roman Catholics and 74,573 Protesiants. The canton includa^i the valley of the Rhine down lo
the Lake of Constanz, the flouri>hing oW county of Toggenburg, drained by the river Thur, to the noith
of the depression through which the Rhine formirly took its course, and which extends from Sargans, in
the east, to the Lake of Ziirich in the west. Within it lie Dike Widen and the vale known as Gaster. The
southernmost portion of the canton is exreedirgly nigged, and partly covered with glaciers. Dairy-
farming and agriculture are ot importance ; and there are productive coal and iron miiiei, slate and other
quarries. The mamifacturing industry is mostly confined to the oM county of Toggenburg. It supplies
cottons, lace, embrfiidery, lin'-n, and silk. 'I'hc piincipal towna are St. Gallen, Altstalten, Watlwyl,
Rorschach, Wallensladt, and Rajiperswyl.
THUEGAU. 473
compiled the famous chronicle which recounts the achievements of Charlemagne ;
and German became a fixed language there long before Luther translated the
Bible. This famous old abbey was suppressed in 1806, but its library, with its
1,506 precious codices and 21,000 volumes, has been carefully preserved. In
addition to it there exists a town library of 2«,000 volumes. The founder of the
abbey, St. Gall, an Irishman, lies buried in the abbey church. The town,
in spite of its great elevation above the sea (2,265 feet), has grown into a
manufacturing centre since the thirteenth century. Formerly the linen manu-
facture predominated, but now embroidered muslins form the staple produce,
and the vast meadows surrounding the town and its suburbs have been
converted into bleaching grounds. The manufacturers of St. Gall are a pushing
race, and maintain agents in all parts of the world. The valley of Toggenburg,
which is drained by the Thur, and has Watfwyl (5,494 inhabitants) for its capital,
lies to the west of that town, and forms one continuous street of factories, and
one-eighth of all the cotton stuffs manufactured in Switzerland are produced there.
Herimu (9,727 inhabitants), the largest town of the canton of Appenzell, belongs
to the manufacturing district of St. Gull. As to Appenzell itself (3,686 inha-
bitants), it is remarkable rather on account of its past than for the work accom-
plished in its workshops. As an evidence of olden times, the iron chain and collar
of the pillory still remain attached to the walls of its town-hall.*
Thurgaut is to far less an extent a manufacturing country than the valleys of
St. Gall, Ziirich, or Lower Appenzell. Frmunfeld (5,138 inhabitants) and its other
towns and villages are distinguished rather for the orchards and gardens by which
they are surrounded. Romamhorn (3,141 inhabitants), on the Lake of Constanz,
and the neighbouring port of Rorncharh (3,493 inhabitants), in the canton of
St. Gallen, are imported grain marts. The shipping trade between the Swiss and
German shores of the Bodensee is far more active than on the Lake of Geneva.
On the latter the steamers are obliged to compete with railways running along the
northern shore, for the southern is bounded for the most part by steep and almost
deserted mountains. On the Bodensee, on the other hand, the vessels cross the
lake transversely, thus connecting the terminal stations of the German and Swiss
railways.
The Bodensee (Lake of Constanz) forms with the Rhine a natural frontier on
• Appenzell, since 1597, hM been di>'idpd into the Catholic half-ianton of Inner Khoden and the Pro-
testant one of Outer Rhoden. The form'-r inclu'Ies ih • uipcrvaley nf th« Sitttrn, with Apjienzell for its
capitil. The iiihaliitants depend mainly upon d«iry-fnrmiug. In Outer Ithodeii m iny of tlie inhabit mis
are engHge<l in muslin- weaving, enibioiliry, and oth^r indus'riet. The Appenzellers are noted for iheir
gaiety and intelligence. They are ex<-elIont w.estlers and marksmen. Tliey were forrneily the snlijiots
of the Abbots of S'. Gall, hut, being cruelly oppressed by tliem, they foiraed themselves iuio Khoden
(Kotlen, i.e. bands), and recovered llieir indcpendem^e.
t T/mn/a I) I in Fren ti Thnnjoeie). — Area, aS2 Bquare miles ; population (1876), 95,07o. In 1870tlieie
were 6U,231 Catholics ;ihd 23 ihi PntestHnls. The canton extends abmi^ the L:iko of Constanz and tlie ■
Hhine to within the nfii;hboiiihood of SchrtfThamoii. The Thur and the Murg are the principal rivor.s.
The surface is undulaliiig. and of great fertility. The Thurgau is the granary of Switzerland, and its
orchards are vi>ry extensive. Wine, cider, potato brandy, fiuit, corn, fish, and cotton stuffs are expoited.
Fraueufcld is the caiiital.
70
474 SWITZEELAND.
the north of Switzerland, but a small canton, that of Schaffhaitsen, lies beyond that
river. Its capital (10,303 inhabitants) is one of the most curious cities of the
Confederation, for by the side of old towers and walls rise the modern factories.
The water of the Rhine has been conveyed into nearly every house, where it
supplies a cheap and efficacious motive power. The Byzantine minster, built
between 1104 and 1453, possesses a bell of 1486, inscribed "Vivos voco, mortuos
plango, fulgura trango ! " The Gothic church of St. John's is said to be the
largest in Switzerland. The neighbourhood of this original town abounds in
delightful sites. No doubt grander scenery may be seen in other parts of
Switzerland, but none more charming.*
• Sc/mfhausen.— Area, 114 square miles; population (1876), 38,925. In 1870 there were 34,466 Pro-
testants and 3,061 Catholics. The limestone of ihe Itanden, a miniature of the Swabian .Jura, approaches
close to the Rhine. Agriculture and cattle-breeding are the principal occupations. Com, potatoes, wine,
and cattle are exported. Cast-steel files, railway carriages, and crucibles are manufactured. The
canton joined the Confederation in 1601.
CHAPTER VIII.
AGRICTLTURE, INDUSTRY, AND COMMERCE*
LTHOUGH far less than one-half of the area is capable of being
cultivated, and much of the remainder lies at so preat an elevation
above the sea as to be incapable of being utilised except as forests
or pasture, the population of Switzerland increases annually to
the extent of 12,000 or 15,000 persons. In spite of its extensive
glaciers and snow-fields, the population is as dense in Switzerland as it is in
France.
The agricultural produce is not sufficient for the support of the inhabitants. f
About one-third of the corn required has to be imported from Germany, Hungary,
and the Danubian Principalities, and has to be paid for out of the profits derived
from manufacturing industries. The vine is cultivated with care, and the sunny
slopes on the Lakes of Geneva and Neuchatel and of the Lower Valais form one
continuous vineyard, from which the dreaded phylloxera has hitherto been success-
fully excluded. But the wine produced does not meet the demand, which is very
large in some of the cantons, and France is called upon to make up the deficiency.+
Similar deficiencies take place in all other kinds of agricultural produce : only
fruit is grown in quantities sufficient for home consumption, more especially in
the northern cantons of Aargau, Ziirich, Schaff hausen, and Thurgau.
The nature of their country precludes the Swiss from contending with neigh-
bouring countries as to ordinary agricultural productions, but their unrivalled
meadow sand pastures largely compensate them in this respect. Formerly, too,
• According to occiipatinns the population of Switzerland is distributed as follows : —
Agriculture and la! tie-breeding 44 '4 per cent.
Industry 34-6 „
Commerce . . ...
Cnnvevance and truffic ....
Officials, profoasiniml men, and artists .
Ser^'anl8 (rendering perBonil service>) .
Persons of iiidoijendciit means . .
t Luzwrn, Si.lothum, Fiibourg, and Schiiff hausen export corn; Vii
Bufficiint for home consumption. All other cantons are compelled to import largely.
X The annual production of wine is estimated at 2.641,000 gallons. It is most considerable in V.iud,
Vnlais, Zurich, and Thurgau.
6-2 „
1-8 „
3-9 „
G-3 „
3-9 „
lais and Aargau grow nearly
476
SWITZERLAND.
their forests yielded a supply of timber and fuel amply sufficient for home con-
sumption ; * but since the beginning of this century the forests have decreased
considerably. In some of the cantons, and more especially in the Valais and
Ticino, the trees have been cut down without the least thought of the future, and
the disastrous consequences of such wanton destruction have not failed to appear
in a deterioration of the climate and an increase in the destructive action of mountain
torrents. The Forest Cantons no longer deserve that name. The Kern-Wald,
which anciently separated the two portions of the canton of Unterwalden, has
almost disappeared. Strict laws have been promulgated for the protection of
national and communal forests ; but much of the forest land appears to have
Fig. 325.— The " Sennhutten," or Heudsmen's Cabins, of the Simmenthal.
Scale 1 : 145,000.
7» 20 E.of Or
pK"^ ■ -/f^
^^' i^xv .^«;~«^;s-^T -f
2 Miles.
definitely become private property, in .«plte of the stipulation that it should be
restored to the communes after a lapse of eight or nine years, and is not affected
by these laws. Thus, year after year, we are compelled to witness a diminution
in the forests of Switzerland, and a proportionate increase in the cost of timber and
fuel. The Swiss now import large quantities of timber and of fuel, in spite of the
• Distribution of the area of Switzerland (1878) : —
Area.
Per
Area.
Per
Acres.
Cent.
Acres.
Cent.
Arable land .
1,.500,180
14-7
Glaciers
454,390
44
Vineyards .
75,370
0-7
Lakes ....
353,530
3-5
Meadow 8
1,600,000
15-6
Houses
39,980
03
Pastures
2,242,000
21-9
Roads, rivers, waste land
2,067,110
20-3
Forests
1.906,290
18-7
Total, unproductive
2,915,010
28 5
Total, i>roiucliv(
; 7,:i2:i,840
715
AGRICULTURE, INDUSTRY, AND COMMERCE. 477
fact that they possess almost inexhaustible stores of the latter in their vast peat
bogs and their beds of lignite and anthracite.
Fortunately the mountaineers are not able to destroy the meadows and Alpine
pastures, which constitute the principal source of wealth of the country. They
only suffer occasionally from floods, which cover them with rubbish. The mountain
pastures are either Allm^^nde — that is, commons belonging to the parishes (35-5 per
cent.) — or they are the property of corporations (9 per cent.) or of private owners.
The Alpine pastures are divided into nearly 300,000 Stosse, each capable of
supporting a cow, and varying in size from 1 to 10 acres, according to their
fertility. They are valued at £3,200,000, and yield annually a profit of over
£400,000. Every citizen is entitled to pasture a certain number of cows or other
animals upon the common pastures. The village usually appoints a Senn, or
herdsman, and sometimes also a " cheesemaster," who divides the cheese, butter, &c.,
amongst the persons interested. The private pastures are usually farmed, and the
manufacture of cheese and butter is frequently carried on by associations, as in
the French Jura. The day on which the herds leave the villages for the mountain
pastures is a universal holiday. The herds gradually proceed from Staft'el to
Staffel, and in August, or earlier if the weather prove unfavourable, they return
as slowly to the villages. The Senn, or herdsman, lives in a hut constructed of
rough timber, and furnished with the necessary apparatus for making cheese.
Another hut serves as a storehouse. In the morning, when the Senn steps
outside his hut, he bl<)w8 his Alpine born, made of the bark of the birch, or
yodck, and the animals intrusted to his care obey the accustomed call and
collect around him to be milked. It is a hard life the Senn leads on his Alp,
and very little of romance is attached to it.
The manufacture of cheese and butter is generally carried on by associations,
as in the French Jura. Swiss cheese is highly esteemed on the continent. The
best sorts are made at Gruyere, in the canton of Fribourg, and in the Emmenthal.*
The making of butter suffers in consequence of the high prices paid for cheese,
but condensed milk forms an important article of export. The c.ittle of Switzer-
land, noted for their strength and the quantity of milk they yield, belong in the
main to two races. The finest representatives of the brown race are met with
ill Schwyz, whilst the brindled race is principally seen in the Alps of Bern and
Fribourg. The latter is said to resemble the cattle of Jutland and the Baltic,
and is supposed to have been introduced by the Burgundians.t Swiss sheep and
• In 1875 398,000 cwte. of cheese, valued at £1,400,000, were exported.
1868. 1876.
t Horses 100,324 100,936
Amcii and Mules ',475 3,146
Milch cows • 563,206 692,460
Other catUe 440.086 443,470
Sheep ....... 447,001 367.550
Goalg 375,482 396,155
Piaa .... 304,428 334.215
Beehives '. '. - »77,826
The import of cattle and butler regularly exceeds Ihe export.
478 SW1TZEB,LA^-D.
horses generally belong to inferior breeds, but something has recently been done
by the Federal authorities to improve the former. The goats are actually mis-
chievous, for they destroy the forests.
Silkworms are bred in Ticino, and snails, for exportation to Italy, in the
Grisons.
In former times, when only a small area had been brought under cultivation,
the forests and pasture- lands did not suffice for the maintenance of the population
of the country. If a mountaineer desired to acquire wealth he was compelled to
expatriate himself for years, and to go in search of it to the towns of neighbouring
countries. Even now the " Fathers " of many wealthy Alpine parishes take every
needful precaution in order that the population intrusted to their care shall not
outgrow the resources afforded by the land. Bound to support those of its
members who become indigent, they do not readily authorise marriages ; and if a
family should grow too rapidly they provide its younger members with a viaticum,
and advise them to go in search of fortune in the wide world. In foi-mer times
these expatriated sons of the country, provided they enjoyed good health, found
ready employment as mercenaries. More than twenty-one centuries ago, we are
told by Polybius, the Celts came down from the Alps and from the Upper Rhone
valley, and sold themselves to the Eomans, in order that they might fight other
Celts living in the plains of the Po. War became the favourite occupation of the
mountaineers, elated by their great victories over Austrians and Burgundians.
Some of the cantons actually made money by trading in their poorer citizens.
They concluded conventions with France, Austria, the Pope, and several Italian
states, by which they bound themselves to furnish regiments of soldiers, either for
parade or for actual fighting. For,
" If heroes yon would huve, the pay must be high " *
As recently as 1855 one of the Swiss cantons entered into a so-called "capitu-
lation " with Rome and Naples. But neither Luzern nor any of the little cantons
would dare now to sell the flesh of their sons. The young men whom they
expatriate now must seek to make a living by some other means than soldiering.
Nearly every mountain village cultivates a special trade, which those amongst
the voung men who emigrate practise in the towns in which they establish them-
selves. The emigrants from one village are all of them chimney-sweeps ; those
fi om another glaziers or masons. There are others which only send forth knife-
grinders, cloth -dealers, florists, or colliers. The men from the valley of Blegno,
in the canton of Ticino, are chestnut-roasters, although the chestnut- tree does not
grow in their mountain valley. The Engadin and other parts of the Grisons
supply Europe with pastrycooks ; whilst the southern valleys of Ticino annually
provide Italy with builders, designers, and painters. These emigrants are, as a
rule, quite as careful with their savings as the parish authorities are with their
parochial treasure chest. They spend little, pocket halfpence or sovereigns as
may chance, and, having realised a competency, they return to their native valley,
• Le Regimmt du Baron Madiuce.
AGEICULTCTRE, INDUSTRY, AND COMMERCE. 479
where they build themselves a house, and live as " gentlemen " amidst their fellow-
countrymen. In visiting the remote Alpine valley a stranger feels sometimes
surprised that he should be accosted in his own language. One-fourth of the natives
of Ticino speak French, and many German ; hundreds are able to speak a few
words of Spanish, Arabic, Greek, or Bulgarian. On returning to their homes,
many of these emigrants keep up their connection with the countries in which
they realised their fortunes. The Swiss of Glarus, St. Gall, and Toggenburg
have established agencies in all the principal towns of Europe, as far as Scandi-
navia and Russia, and in the East. China, Brazil, and the United States are
amongst the best customers of the handicraftsmen dwelling in the valleys of the
Alps and of the Jura.*
Industry is, in fact, the great source of wealth, which enables the Swiss to
live in spite of the small agricultural and mineral resources of the country.
Mining is carried on to some extent, but the mineral resources of the country
are not very great, and the working of many mines has been discontinued, owing
to the cost of fuel. Iron ores are found in the Jura, in St. Gallen, Solothurn, and
Valais. About 632,000 cwts. of ore are raised annually. The Alps are supposed to
be rich in iron ore, but, owing to the want of fuel, it would not pay to work them.
There are copper, zinc, lead, cobalt, and bismuth mines, but their produce is very
scanty. Gold in small quantities is found in the sand of some rivers, and silver
in the argentiferous lead of Valais, Bern, and the Grisons. The salt works of
Bex, in the Valais and to the west of Basel, are more productive. They yield
about 660,000 cwts. annually, in spite of which considerable quantities of salt
have to be imported from abroad. From 10,000 to 15,000 tons of asphalt are
obtained annually in the Val de Travers, in the Jura. Coal is found in the Valais,
in Bern, and in Fribourg ; lignite in some of the other cantons ; but the quantity
raised (about 20,000 tons a year) is insignificant. Peat is found in most of
the cantons. Marble, roofing slates, millstones, and building stones are quarried
extensively.
Necessity, which compelled so many to emigrate, induced those who remained
at home to employ the long winter in manufacturing articles in wool or coarse
linens, which they sold at ridiculously low prices. Such was the modest begin-
nino' of Swi.ss industry, which now holds so respectable a place. Though obliged
to import most of the raw produce, Swiss manufacturers were able to undersell
their foreign competitors, for they paid lower vages, especially in the mountain
districts, and the many rivers and rivulets furnished them gratuitously with a
motive power for their machinery. On the other hand, Switzerland labours under
the disadvantage of being cut off from the sea, which places it at the mercy of its
neighbours, who could annihilate its commerce by the erection of customs barriers.
Most of its industries, moreover, have no connection at all with the district in
which they are carried on, such as exists between the factories of many foreign
countries and the coal or iron mines in the vicinity of which they grew up.
• In 1870 the number of Swiss residing abroad was esti.nated at 72,500. Their re«l ..uniber, how-
ever, is supposed to be 2.50,000.
480
SWITZEELAND.
Watches, for instance, can be manufactured equally well in other countries,
and Swiss watches actually find no longer a market in France or the United
States.*
But, in spite of this, Geneva and the Jura are the most important centres of
watchmaking in the world. t This branch of industry is carried on exclusively
in French Switzerland. The Jura supplies principally plain watches ; Geneva,
wajches in highly ornamental cases ; and Le Loche, pocket chronometers. To
regulate these latter an observatory has been established at Neuchatel. The
export of watches to the United States, which formerly yielded £520,000, hardly
reaches now £200,000 — a most serious blow to so important a branch of Swiss
industry. The German cantons in the plains and hilly district — Glarus, Ziirich,
Fig. 326. — Indi'STKiai. Map of Switzeulakd.
Watches.
Embroidery,
6ilk.
Cottons and linens.
Straw-plaiting
and Horsehair.
St. Gallen, and Appenzell— ^engage in cotton- spinning, employing 2,000,000
spindles and 16,000 power-looms. Silks are manufactured in Ziirich and Basel,
• Statistics of the leading industries of Switzerland (1875) :—
Textile industries
Watchmaking ....
Silks and ribbons
Machine shops ....
Total
Opera
Males.
75,000
tlves.
Females.
7),000
Total of
their Wages.
£4,320,000
Average Wages
per Day.
Is. lOd.
67,000
13,000
2,520,000
2s. 5d.
33,000
27,000
2,016,000
2s. 3d.
?o.noo
—
804,000
♦■o.eoo.oiio
2s. 7d.
185,000
115,000
28. od.
The average wcrking day is 12 hours 24 minutes.
t Watchniiikini; in 1875 : —
Switzerland ....
France
England .....
United States ....
1,600,000 watches, value £3,520,000
400,000 „ „ 1,000,000
200,000 „ „ 640,000
200,000 „ „ 600,000
AGRICULTURE, INDUSTRY, AND COMMERCE. 481
which are formidable rivals of Lyons. This branch of industry is very old, but it
only attained larger proportions through the immigration of Italian and French
Protestants during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The abolition of the
silk duties in England gave an immense development to it, whilst the protective
policy of the United States threatens it with destruction. Silk goods valued at
£1,600,000 were exported to America in 1872. In 1876 the exports had fallen to
little more than a milliou ! The mechanical embroidery of textile fabrics, chiefly
carried on in St. Gallen, Appenzell and Thurgau, has likewise grown into an
important branch of industry.* The manufacture of linen, straw-plaiting, the
distillation of liqueurs, and wood-carving, which gives so much pleasure to the
visitors of the Bernese Oberland, are amongst the minor industries. Nor must
we omit to notice the machine builders of Zurich and Olten, and the many
Fig. 327. — Ax AVALANCHB ON THB Ebinb Fluh.
handicraftsmen who devote their attention to the production of a great variety
of fancy articles, amongst which the jewellery of Geneva occupies a most respectable
place. The iron works only produce 160,000 cwts. of pig-iron a year.
M. de Laveleye has pointed out that the Swiss workmen, as compared with
those of other countries, enjoy a great advantage by sharing largely in the
property in the land. It is quite true that at Zurich, Glarus, and elsewhere
many of the native workmen own a patch of meadow land, a potato-field, or
a couple of cows, looked after by the wife or the children. But in Switzerland,
as in all manufacturing cDuntries, the workmen are for the most part solely
dependent upon their wages. In proof of this we may cite the canton of Glarus,
• In 1876 there were 10,237 embroidoritig m«chines, and including the workshops they were valued at
£1,800,000. About 25,000 oijeralives were emjiloyed in that bianch of industry.
482
SWITZERLAND.
where the general wealth has more than quadrupled since 1850, but where, not-
withstanding, only one-third of the population consists of landowners, whilst half
the canton is the property of no more than thirty individuals.
Thanks to its manufacturing industry, Switzerland is able to carry on a very
considerable commerce.* The imports from France include woollen stuffs and silks,
wine, flour, jewellerj% and hardware. Italy supplies almost exclusively raw silk.
Germany furnishes corn, flour, and all kinds of manufactured goods. The exports
include silks, cotton goods, lace, watches, jewellery, straw-plaiting, cattle and
cheese, wine, liqueurs, musical boxes, wood-carvings, machinery, asphalt, &c.
Free trade has been adopted in principle. The customs duties are principally
Fig. 328. — The Passes over the Alps.
Scale 1 : 2,400,000.
10 Miles.
levied upon luxuries and alcoholic drinks, and the transit dues were abolished in
1867.
Nature has opposed great obstacles to the development of commerce. In a
country of mountains, torrents, avalanches, and laiid.slips, the construction of
carriage roads entailed a considerable amount of labour, and their maintenance is
costly. It is well known that travellers only venture timidly into certain moun-
tain gorges, and speak with a subdued voice for fear that the vibration of the air
might cause an avalanche to rush down the mountain slope and involve them in
de.struction. In spite of these difficulties, the network of excellent carriage roads
which now embraces the plain and the billy regions leaves but little to be desired.
• In 1874 tho importi and pxpoits were roughly estimiited at £43,200,000. or £16 S«. per head.
In 1876 the im| oits included 289,S94 head of live slock; £107,613 worth of merchandise taxed ad
valorem, and 43,3 .'2,071 ewis. ol other goods.
Tho exports ii eluded 105,782 head of live stock; £246.330 worth of wood and coal ; and 4 4.53.979
cwts. of other good-t (401,915 cwts. of cheese, 225,491 cwts. of coiton .stuffs, 107,747 cwts. ol colti-n jarn
and twist, 24,216 cwts. of raw silk, 58,341 cwts. of silk stuffs and ribbons, &c.).
AGRICULTURE, INDUSTRY, AND COMMERCE. 433
More than twenty carriage roads connect the two slopes of the Jura Every
one of the lakes i. skirted by roads, some of them, like the Axenstrasse
being hewn out of the solid rock. Excellent roads likewise cross the principal
passes of the secondary ranges of the Alps, and some amongst these, such as that
of the Brunig, which connects Interlaken with the Lake of the Four Canton» is
frequented annually by thousands of travellers. As to the Central Alps, many of
the paths which lead acro.s these have not yet been made practicable for carria-es
Fig. 329.— The DEra's Bkidoe and the Road of the St. Gotthaed.
The famous old pass which the Romans dedicated to Jupiter Poeninus, in whose
honour they erected a temple upon its summits, now replaced by the monastery of
St. Uernard, is practicable only for mules. The Lukmanier, which, next to the
Maloggia in the Engadin, is the lowest pass over the Central Alps, still waits for
its carriage road. The Septimer was much frequented by the Romans, and the
road which led over it joined that over the Bernardino on the northern slope at
Curiu (Chur), on the southern at Clavenna (Chiavenna), but merely a footpath
leads across it now. On the other hand, passages which were not frequented for-
484
SWITZERLAND.
merly have been conquered by man. The most important road which in our days
crosses the Alps, that of the St. Gotthard, penetrates valleys which were not
known to the Roman legionaries. Its name is first mentioned in 1162. Four
other international high-roads connect the two slopes of the Swiss Alps. Early
in the century not a single international carriage road crossed the Alps
between the Mediterranean and the Brenner. It was Napoleon who constructed
not only the roads over the Mont Cenis, the Little St. Bernard, and others across
the Franco- Italian Alps, but also built the famous road over the Simplon (6,595
feet), which was completed in 1806. Several great high-roads have since been
constructed for the purpose of facilitating communications between Switzerland
Fig. 330. — The Railways of Switzehland.
Scale 1 : 1,280,000.
, 50 Miles.
and Italy. The road of the St. Gotthard (6,936 feet) connects the Lake of the
Four Cantons with the Lago Maggiore and Milan. The roads over the Spliigeii
(6,947 feet) and the Bernardino (6,770 feet) join the valley of the Hinter-Rhein,
the one with the Lake of Como, the other with the Lago Maggiore. The Maloggia
(6,100 feet) connects the Upper Engadin with the Lake of Como, the Bcrninn
(7,670 feet) with the Val Telina. Amongst the passes wholly within
Switzerland that of the Furkn (8,000 feet), which connects the valley of the Rhone
with the road over the St. Gotthard, is one of the most important from a military
point of view. Four carriage roads cross the Alps which separate Chur from
the Engadin, viz. those of the Flucla (7,888 feet), the Alhula (7,584 feet), Julier,
and Septimer (7,347 feet). The most elevated bridle-path, and the highest pass
f
t
Scalo
.HaJ'iff ^ Limestone
Lias S' Dolomite
NEW ^OTiVi, r>.
.IMilo
ScAt.ftr
Mlul
PLETON * C?
AGRICULTURE, INDUSTRY, AND COMMERCE.
485
in all Europe, leads over the Matterjoch {Passage de St. Theoduk, 10,930 feet).
According to the number of travellers which cross them annually they rank in the
following order :— Simplon, Splugen, Bernardino, and La Maloggia.*
But high-roads, however carefully constructed, no longer suffice for the require-
ments of commerce : railways, placing the country into connection with the railway
systems of other countries, have become indispensable. The first railway, that
from Zurich to Baden, was opened in 1847, but at present the plain of Switzer-
land has more railways in proportion to its area than any other country of
Europe ; perhaps too many, if we judge them by the profit their constructors derive
from them.t They may possibly become more profitable after they have been
placed in direct communication with the Italian railways, and this great work has
been seriously taken in hand. Germany and Italy, which are most interested in the
realisation of this plan, have combined with Switzerland to construct for that
purpose a tunnel beneath the Pass of St. Gotthard. Amongst all the great works
Fig. 331. — The Tunnel ■ f the St. Gotthakd.
Scale 1. 173000
I 2 3
-1 1 1—
J unci
in
Ornnitnid Gneiss. Schistose gneiss and mica schist. Gneips, Mica schist H<ca
gneiss. Bchis^ and gneiss schist.
quartz.
recently accomplished, this piercing of the St. Gotthard will be one of the greatest
and one of the most necessary. Switzerland would, in course of time, become a
kind of blind alley, unless a road were opened through it available for the transit
trade. Goods and passengers are now obliged to travel by way of France or
Austria, but, as soon as the tunnel of the St. Gotthard shall have been opened for
traffic, commerce will avail itself of the advantage it offers, and some of its stations,
high up in the mountains, will become great enfrepots of European importance.
Results such as these cannot, however, be attained without exercising a potent
• In 1876 the four principal Alpine pusses were, crossed tiy the following number of travellers: —
St. Gotthard, 6.5,500 ; Simplon, 27,700 ; Spliigon, 24,1'>0 ; RiTiiardino, 24,000.
Alto^jcthnr the Alpine routes were made use of by 22."i,000 travullers in carriages, and by at least as
many ptdeslriaiis.
+ In 1877 there were \M0 miles of r.ilway. constructed iit an expense of £34,000,000. In 1»76 the
revenue derived from thorn was £2,1 3.'!,C20, or £l,i02 a mile.
The Post Office (1876) forward.-d 65,03.5,290 letters, 20,389,833 parcels, and 45,650,000 newspapfrs.
The telegraph linos have a lingth of over 4,000 miles, and 2,918,858 iiiesaiges were sent in 1876.
486
SWITZERLAND.
Fig.
332. — Diagram of the Tunnels of the
SiMPLOV AND THE St. GoTTHARD.
Horizontal Scale 1 : 4,000,000.
Vertical Scale 1 : 40,000.
Vonle t.eone
influence upon political geography. The high chain of the Alps, which hitherto
formed an almost impassable barrier between nations, will exist no longer.
Manners and customs which survive only in remote districts will be swept away.
The difficulties presented by this vast enterprise have been great ; financial mis-
calculations have led to embarrassment ; but the work is nevertheless progressing
satisfactorily, and the year 1880 will no doubt see its accomplishment. The lines
of railway which give access to it from the Forest Cantons and Ticino can be
opened soon after.*
But this is not all. If German Switzerland pierces the Alps which separate it
from Italy, French Switzerland likewise desires to obtain a direct outlet towards
the south, and its interests are identical
with those of Northern France. In fact, a
straight line drawn from Paris to Milan —
that is to say, in the direction of Brindisi,
Egypt, and India — passes through the
canton of the Valais. Engineers, anxious
to find the most favourable locality where
they might pierce the Alps, have fixed
upon the Siinplon. This is the veritable
gateway into Italy, but the gate requires
opening. As compared with other Alpine
railways, thut proposed to rim through
the tunnel of the Simplon will possess the
inestimable advantage of having very
gentle gradients. Its construction will
be less costly, and its traffic can bs carried
with far greater facility. It is, therefore,
much to be desired that its construction
should be taken in hand at an early
date.t
Another gap, the Pass of Maloggia,
at the other extremity of Switzerland,
at the head of the Inn, appears to offer
many advantages for the construction of a
railway traversing the Alps obliquely,
and connecting the valley of the Danube
with the Gulf of Genoa. But this railway, very different from the proposed line
over the Simplon, would for a considerable distance be at an elevation of 5,900
feet above the sea, and on reaching the edge of the pass, very appropriately called
• 10 so 3o ^O&O 8070 80 0OMOU011Dl3oi^Ol&« iftoijo iSoi^toouooto Idi
• The total length of the tunnel, between Gcischenen on the north and Airolo on the south, is 48,947
feet, or 93 miles.
t Comparison of Alpine tunnels : —
Mt Tenia St. Gotthard
(completed). (constnicting).
Length in feet .... 40,1:)3 48,947
Altitude „ .... 4,100 3,785 2,360
Simplon
(proposed).
61,493
AGRICULTURE, INDUSTRY, AND COMMERCE. 437
that of the " bad quarters, or lodgings," it would be necessary to construct very
costly embankments in order to reach the valley of Bregaglia, lying far below.
Although years may pass before the Hnes through the St. Gotthard and the
Simplon are opened for traffic, the number of travellers is ever on the increase,
and Switzerland has almost become one huge hotel. During the summer season
they arrive in thousands, and all the languages of Europe may then be heard.*
Many of these visitors, attracted by the salubrity of the climate or the advan-
tages of living in a free country, permanently settle there, and even during
winter the resident foreign population is very considerable. t Manufacturing
Fig. 333.— The Pass of Maloggia.
Scale 1 : 96,000.
IMOe.
towns like Geneva, Basel, Zurich, or St. Gallen attract many German or French
workmen, whilst Italian may be heard wherever railway embankments are being
thrown up or houses built.
The natives of Switzerland whom a traveller encounters whilst passing rapidly
from hotel to hotel do not give a fair idea of the bulk of the population. Indeed,
the "exploitation of foreigners " is not the least profitable industry of the country.?
Hotel-ktepers, carriers, guides, horn-blowers, openers of gates, guardians of water-
falls, and a host of mendicants, who make their living out of foreign visitors, never
• In 1869 Interlaken was visited Ly 175,000 strangers, who stayed there from a night to several
weeks.
t Number of forciirners domiciled in Switzerland (1870), 1.50,900, of whom 63,117 were Germans,
62,228 French, 18,073 Iialians, '2,297 English, 1,.599 Russians, 1,404 Americans.
X the foreigners who annually visit the Oberland are said to leave £1,200,000 behind them.
488
SWITZERLAND.
hesitate when a chance of making something out of him presents itself. Every-
thing is sold, down to a glass of water, or even a gesture indicating the route a
traveller is to follow. Fine sites are taken possession of and enclosed with
barriers, n order that strangers desirous of enjoying the prospect can be made to
pay for it. "Waterfalls and cascades are concealed behind hideous palisades, in
order that the travellers not willing or able to pay may be shut out from their
enjoyment. It is only natural that this avidity should disgust foreign visitors,
but in a world where the love of lucre is being perpetually culled forth it is diflB-
cult to form an opinion of the true moral standard of the persons with whom we
come temporarily into contact.
If we would study the Swiss as he is, we must step beyond this world of hotels.
Fig. 334. — The Moxch, with the Junofrau, the Silberhobn, the Schseehorn, the Altels, and
Bl,i'MI,I«Al,P, IN THE msTAX'P
the only one with which most foreign visitors become acquainted. In forming
our opinion of the moral character of the people we must be guided not only by
our own personal experience, but also by the statistics published by the different
cantons and by public societies. Much has certainly been done for elementary
education ; but although Switzerland ranks high in that respect, many of its
cantons lag far behind, and the diffusion of knowledge is much less general than
in Germany. In many cantons every child receives an elementary education, and
some of the adults a'tend suparior schools, but there are others which leave much
to be desired in that respet^t. The school-house is the finest building in many
villages, and in some of the towns veritable palaces have been constructed to serve
the purposes of education. In the north-eastern cantons, where the vast majority
of inhabitants are Protestant, tlie proportion of children attending school to the
AGEICULTUEE, INDUSTRY, AND COMMERCE. 489
whole population is as 1 to 5, while in the half-Protestant cantons it is as 1
to 7, and in the Roman Catholic cantons as 1 to 9. Parents are by law com-
pelled to send their children to school, oi' to have them privately taught, from
the age of six to that of twelve years ; and neglect may be punished by fine, and
in some cases by imprisonment. The law has not hitherto been enforced in the
Homan Catholic cantons, but it is rigidly carried out in those where the Protestants
form the majority of the inhabitants. In every parish there are elementary
schools, where the rudiments of education, with geography and history, are taught,
and the number of secondary schools is very considerable. Industrial schools, in
which girls are taught needlework, exist in connection with many of the elementary
schools. Superior schools exist in fifteen of the principal towns. There are
colleges at Geneva and Lausanne, and universities at Basel (founded in 1460), Bern,
Ziirich, and Geneva. These latter are organized on the German system. No less
than 280 professors and teachers are attached to them, and they are attended by
1,200 pupils. A Polytechnic school was established at Ziirich in 1855, and is
maintained by the Federal Government. There are in addition five agricultural
schools, sixteen training schools for elementary teachers, a military academy at
Thun, and six seminaries for the education of Roman Catholic priests.* Teachers
and professors are in many instances better paid than in the neighbouring coun-
tries, and thej-^ enjoy the respect of their fellow-citizens.t
The number of public libraries is large, and there exist numerous societies for
the promotion of art and science, all of which exercise a most beneficial influence
upon the education of the people. Amongst societies embracing the whole of
Switzerland, and counting their members by thousands, may be mentioned the
Art Union, the Natural History Society, the Historical and Antiquarian Societies,
the Unions of Choral and Gymnastic Societies, the Unions of Swiss Physicians and
Lawyers, and a Society for the Promotion of Art Industry.^
• Edncadonal statistics :— 6,500 elementary schools are attended by 420,000 pupils. They are main-
tained at an annual expenditure of £268,000. Education is most widely diffused in the cantons of Basel
Town, Ziirich, and Vaud, where only 4 out of every 1,000 inhabitants are illiterate. In the cantons of
Unterwalden (nid dem Wald , Fribourg, A'alais, Schwyz, and Appenzell (Outer Khoden) the number of
illiterates varies between 113 and 315 per 1,000.
Out of every 1,000 recmits no less than 9 are unable to read!
t In the canton of Ziirich, which takes the lead in all matters relating to education, the eleraentarj-
teachers are paid £92 to £140 annually in the town, and £48 as a minimum in the country districts, in
addition to which the country schoolmasters are provided with lodgings.
X In 1876 there existed 25 large public libraries in Switzerland, with 920,500 volumes ; 1,629 school
and people's libraries, with 687,950 volumes.
There existed likewise 5,552 societies or clubs, with 230,000 members.
About 412 periodicals aic being published; 266 in German, 118 in French, 16 in Italian, 5 in Romaic,
and 1 in English.
71
CHAPTER IX.
GOVERNMENT AKD ADMINISTRATION.
WITZERLAND, with its diverse races and languages, is not governed,
like most other states, by a monarch or by a political party.
In spite of the centralizing tendencies which have been at work
more or less actively since the commencement of the nineteenth
century, each canton consists in reality of a confederation of com-
munes, or parishes, every one of which attends to its local affairs, whilst the
Republic itself includes a number of cantons enjoying a large amount of autonomy.
In former times Switzerland was cut up into several hundred independent states,
every one of which was governed on different priTiciples, and which hung only
loosely together in case of emergency. The valley formed the natural unit of
these states — the Republican cellule of the entire organism as it were. The Grisons
present a striking instance of this kind. The communes there are separated by
barriers of mountains, rocks, and snow-fields, and were thus able to maintain their
independence. They combined into three leagues for the purpose of administering
the interests they had in common, and these three leagues again formed them-
selves into a federation for the defence of the country against foreign aggression
(see p. 491).
The Swiss Republic, taken as a whole, did not at that time realise our ideal of
what such a body politic should have been. Feudal practices, and military expedi-
tions undertaken for the sake of conquest, formed a strange and curious contrast
to the practice of local liberty. Serfdom existed, and in Solothurn was abolished
only in 1782. The inhabitants of tbe plain and of the hills, whom nature had not
protected against the incursions of armed bands, became the " cattle " of feudal
lords and princely abbots. The laws differed throughout the country, and the
privileges accorded to members of the Confederation varied according to the
accidents of conquest or of alliances. Some of the towns enjoyed the title of
"allies," without being sovereign ; others were admitted as "protected towns ; "
others, again, were treated as victims of conquest, and had to obey the behests of
individual cantons, or of the Swiss "people" met in " Tagsatzung," or Parliament.
It required the terrible shock of the French Revolution to change this state of
GOVERNMENT AND ADMINISTRATION. 491
affairs, and to turn Switzerland into patlis more comfonnable with our modem
ideas of civilisation and civil liberty. The curious distribution of Protestants and
Catholics in Switzerland clearly proves the tyrannical manner in which each of
these little states was formerly governed. Religion, festivals, and, in fact, every-
thing, was enforced by laws and customs. It merely depended upon the issue of a
battle whether the inhabitants of a certain district should conform, at least out-
wardly, to the ceremonies of one of the two contending confessions. Hence this
strange intermingling of Catholics and Protestants, independently of differences
of language or of natural geographical boundaries. But toleration has recently
become the rule, and religious strife is less violent than it used to be. Still
even recently a new religious sect has been established, that of the Old Catholics,
whose principal stronghold is in the cantons of Solothurn, Bern, and Aargau.*
They constituted themselves a separate Church in June, 1876, elected a bishop,
and now number 80 congregations, with 75,000 members. The cantonal
authorities at the same time took measures to repress the opposition which
some of the Catholic clergy offered to the laws of the state, and more especially
to the election of priests by the parishioners, as being contrary to the laws of the
Church. In the Jura and in Geneva military force was employed to maintain the
authority of the slate, and quite recently the priests appear to have submitted.
Peace, however, has not been restored, and the suppression of monasteries and
convents is not calculated to allay the discontent of the clergy and of a con-
siderable body amongst the laity. There now remain 32 monasteries and 53
convents in Switzerland, the former with 438, the latter with 2,132 inmates.
Amongst the former the Benedictine abbeys of Einsiedlen, Engelberg, and
Disentis, and the monasteries of the St. Bernard and the St. Gotthard, are the
most famous.
Some of the smaller cantons (Glarus, Uri, Appenzell, and Unterwalden)
have retained their old popular assemblies, or landsgemeinden, at which all citizens
of the canton deliberate in common. The lan(hgeme\nden of Schwyz and Zug have
been abolished — the former in 1798, the latter after the religious war waged
against the Sonderbund. The meetings in the two Forest Cantons of Uri and Unter-
walden are attended by a considerable amount of display, and are very curious
• The Swiss Confederation (Eidgenossengchaft) was founded in 1315 by the cantons of Uri, Sehwyz,
and Unterwalden; Luzem acceded in 1332, and thus arose the federation of the four Forest Cantons
(Waldstiitte). Ziirieh joined in IS.il, Zug and Glarus in 13.32, Bern in 136:j. The Federation then
amumed the title of " Eidgenossenschafl of the Eight Towns." 'I'his union imimrted strength to tlio Con-
federation, and it became aggressive, and the great victories at Granson and Murten (1470 and 14 76)
established iU fame. By the treaty of Basel (1499) the independence of the .Swiss Confederation had
been virtually acknowledged, although it remained nominally a mcniber of the Empire until the treaty of
Westphalia (1618). Solothurn and Friliourg joined the Federation in 1481, Basel and Schaffhausen in
1501, and Api)enzell in 1.513'. 'ITie thirteen cantons named formed the Federatiou up to the outbreak of
the French Revolution. In addition to them there were ' a.ssociates," such as the Abbots of St. Gall and
the town of Bid, who sent representatives to the Parliament ; confederates or allies, including the
Gri.s<m», the Viilai.<i, Neuchiitel. Geneva, ami a portion of the bishopric of Basel, and JIulhuuscn, in Alsatia ;
and "siibjcc's" (the Thurgau, Vaul, and other territories). French armies overthrew the old lecjera-
tion, and established in its place an Helvetian Republic (1798), which a few years afterwards became
virtually a deiicndeiicy of France. The Valais and Geneva became French departments. '1 he Congress
of Vienna (1813) established .Switzerland within its aotual limits and guaranteed its neutrality.
492 SWITZERLAND.
spectacles, recalling a bygone age. In reality, however, the virtual power reposes
in the hands of a few leading families. Far more influential is the landsgemeiiulc,
which meets at Trogen, in the canton of Appenzell, for it is frequently attended by
more than 10,000 citizens. The assembly of Glarus, however, has succeeded most
in maintaining its ancient prerogatives. This meeting, in accordance with ancient
custom, is attended ulso by the children. Seated beneath the hustings, they listen
to the speeches made by their fathers, and are thus initiated into the politics of
the canton. In the larger cantons a body chosen by universal suffrage exercises all
the functions of the lanckgemeinden.
Five cantons (Geneva, Neuchatel, Valais, and Ticino) retain the representative
institutions which up to 1863 were in force in the majority of the cantons. A
Common Council — Grosser Rath, or Grand Conseil — is elected by universal
suffrage every two, three, or four years. The Executive (Staatsrath, or Conseil
d'fitat) is elected by the Common Council, as are also the judges of the superior
court, who usually serve for nine years, and the prefects, or Amtmanner, of the
districts. The Common Council is a legislative body, and only bills affecting the
constitution of the canton must be submitted to a popular vote before they become
law.
All other cantons — and they are the majority — have recently given themselves
purely democratic constitutions. In all of these the Common or Cantonal Council
is elected by universal suffrage, and in some of them also the executive, the
judges, and principal officers. Bills and estimates are prepared by the repre-
sentatives of the people, but they have no final force until the body of citizens has
had an opportunity to express an opinion with respect to them. This " Referen-
dum " is either obligatory or facultative. In the former case all bills must be
submitted to a popular vote ; in the latter they are submitted only on the requisi-
tion of a certain number of citizens, or in the case of money bills, if the sum voted
exceed a certain amount. In addition to this, a certain number of citizens
may compel the Council to take into consideration any bill that may be
deemed of public interest. Moreover, in some of the cantons the Common
Council may be called upon to retire before the expiration of the usual term
of office. Self-government is rigidly carried out in all these democratic com-
monwealths, most of the officers being elected. The members of the repre-
sentative bodies throughout Switzerland, as well as most of the magistrates,
are either honorary servants of their fellow-citizens or receive a merely nominal
salary.
The local laws differ in many particulars. The penalty of death and
corporal punishment have been abolished throughout ; the gambling hell at Saxon
will soon be closed ; but vestiges of mediaeval processes still remain. Other cantons
have proved themselves more accessible to modern ideas. In Ticino the principle
that criminals should be punished only with a view to their moral regeneration is
universally accepted, and the punishment is frequently remitted. The numerous
ancient laws still in force in many cantons lead to an immense amount of
litigation; but there can be no doubt that the pressure exercised by the Federal
GOYEENMENT AND ADMINISTEATION.
498
High Court of Justice at Lausanne will finally lead to the acceptation of a code
which shall have force throughout the Federation.
The greatest difference between the members of the Federation results from
their inequality in area and population. The area of the canton of the Grisons
is nearly two hundred times more extensive than that of the half-canton of
Basel Town, whilst the canton of Bern has forty-six times more inhabitants than
that of Unterwalden nid dem Wald. But, in spite of these great differences of area
and population, the nineteen cantons and six half-cantons enjoy the same rights
■and privileges in their local government, the only disability of the half-cantons
being this, that they are represented in the State Council only by one member
instead of two.* Of all the Federal republics Switzerland approaches nearest to
our ideal of a Government carried on by the people. In accordance with the
constitution, the sovereignty of the people is acknowledged, and the powers of the
State are wielded by functionaries elected by them, or appointed with the consent of
Inhabitants.
•
Total Area.
Glaciers.
Lakes.
Dec. .SI, 1870
July 1, 1876
Inhab. t
o Prevailing
Sq.M.
;q. M.
Sq M.
(Census).
(Estimatea).
aSq. M
. Nationality.
Ziirich .
6.i6-9
—
29-2
284,786
294,994
443
German
JBem (Berne)
2659-9
111-4
47-4
606,455
628,670
236
Germ., French
tLuzem (Lucerne) .
579-5
—
25 2
132,3;i8
133,316
230
German
ttJri .
415-4
443
7-8
16,107
16,900
41
„
tSohwyz (Schwite) .
3508
0-5
21-0
47,706
49,216
141
f»
tUnterwalden ob
deni AVald
183 3
3-9
4-4
14,415
15,009
82
II
Unterwalden n!d j
112-2
1-4
12-4
11,701
11,993
107
II
dem Wald (
Glarus (Glaris) .
266-9
13-9
2-7
35 151
36,179
134
II
tZng .
92-3
—
13-1
20,993
21,775
236
1)
tFribourg(Freibui^)
644-4
—
45-1
110,832
113,952
177
French, Germ.
tSolothum (Soleure)
302-6
0-1
74,713
77,803
259
German
Baiiel (Bale) Town
13-8
—
—
47,760
51,515
3,680
II
„ Country
162-8
—
—
64 1-27
55,548
2h0
II
Schaffhausen
113-6
—
—
37,721
38,925
344
II
Appenzell, Outer |
100-6
004
0-04
48,726
48,879
4S8
II
Rhoden <
tAppenzell, Inner /
61-4
04
0-2
11,909
11,907
195
II
Rhoden i
tSt.Oallen(St. Gall)
7796
2-9
29-6
191,015
196,834
252
f»
tGraiibiindcn ,Gri- )
song) '
tAargau (Ar^\ie) .
27741
138-7
6-8
91,782
92,906
34
( Germ.jRomaic,
\ Italian
542-1
—
3-3
198,875
201,567
373
German
JThurgau (Thur-
govie)
tTicino (Teasin) .
381-6
_
50-4
93,300
95,074
250
German
1088 2
13-1
25-6
119,6-20
121,768
111
Italian
Vaud (Waadt)
1244-3
4-3
156-6
231,700
242,439
195
French
( French, Germ ,
( Italian
tValaia CWallis)
20-26-0
375-2
6-7
96,887
100,490
60
Ncuchatel
(Neuenburg) J
311-9
36-9
. 97,284
102,843
331
French
JGenbve (Genf, )
Geneva) '
107-9
11-6
93,195
99,352
920
French
Total .
16981-0
710-0
63.i-l
2,569,096
2,759,854
173
•
t Catholic cantons.
I Mixed Catholic
8 and rrotestauts.
494 SWITZEELAND.
their representatives. The legislative powers are vested in the people and their
representatives, and measures of paramount importance must he referred to the
voters, without whose approhation they cannot pass into laws. Every citizen may
propose a law, and if he can obtain the support of one- thirteenth of the electors of
his canton he may take the opinion of the cantonal authorities upon it. In this
mai ne.' the whole of Switzerland has been converted into a huge parliament, of
which every Swiss citizen is a member.
The central authority, up to 1848, was exercised by the Tagsatzung. or Diet,
which alternately sat at Ziirich, Luzern, and Bern. Each canton or half-canton
was represented by a Delegate, compelled to vote in accordance with the instructions
furnished by his constituency. The large and wealthy cantons had no more to
say than the small ones, and the half-cantons had virtually but a consultative
vote, for by a legal fiction two half-votes were not considered to count as a full
vote, and a bill was not considered to have been carried if 11^ votes had been
recorded in its favour. The small cantons actually governed the country. These
evils were put a stop to by the Constitution adopted on the 12th September, 1848,
on the conclusion of the Separatist war, which converted a loose federation of
sovereign cantons into a Federal state.
In virtue of this Federal pact, amended in a spirit of centralization in 1874,
no canton is permitted to form political alliances with other cantons or with
foreign states. All sovereign powers have been delegated to the National Assembly.
It alone can conclude treaties or declare war ; the military forces, towards which
each canton contributes a contingent, only obey its orders ; it coins money and
superintends weights and measures ; it carries on the postal and telegraph services,
and levies the customs duties. The Federation likewise watches over the rights
and privileges of the citizens, and interferes whenever a canton attempts to
violate the law.
Religious liberty is guaranteed, and elementary education throughout
Switzerland is to be compulsory, secular, and gratuitous. If 30,000 citizens or
eight cantons require it, each bill carried by the National Assembly must be
submitted to a popular vote. This is called a Referendum.
Bern has been chosen capital of the country, and is the seat of the National
Assembly, or Bundes-Versammlung, which consists of two chambers. The State
Council (Stiinderath) is composed of forty four members, chosen by the cantons
and half-cantons, the former being represented by two, the latter by one member.
The National Council (Nationalrath) consists of 13-5 representatives of the people,
chosen in direct election at the rate of one deputy for every 20,000 souls. A
general election of representatives takes place every three years. Every citizen
of the Republic who has attained the age of twenty years is entitled to a vote ; and
any voter, not being a clergyman, m:iy be elected a deputy. The chief executive
authority is deputed to a Bundcsrath, or Federal Council, consisting of seven
members, elected for three years by the Federal Assembly. The President and Vice-
President of the Federal Council are the first magistrates of the Republic. Both
GOVERNMENT AND ADMINISTRATION. 495
are elected by the Federal Assembly for the term of one year, and are not
re-eligible till after the expiration of another year. The seven members of the
Federal Council— each of whom has a salary of £480 per annum, while the
President has £540— act as ministers or chiefs of the seven administrative depart-
ments of the Republic.
The eleven members of the Federal Tribunal are elected for six years by the
Federal Assembly. It decides on all matters in dispute between the cantons, or
between cantons and the central Government, and acts in general as a High Court
of Appeal. Its seat is Lausanne. The constitution of 1874 abolished corporal
punishment and the penalty of death, and transferred all legislation on commercial
matters and copyright to the National Assembly.
There is no standing army, but all citizens are called upon to render military
service between the ages of twenty and forty-four, or to pay an exemption-tax
should they be physically unfit. The Bundcs-Aimzug (field force, absurdly called
Me the French cantons) consists of all men up to thirty- two, and each canton
is required to furnish a force equal to at least 3 per cent, of its population, and in
addition a reserve of half that strength. The Landwehr (militia) includes all
men who have passe<l through the Auszug. Most of the expenses connected with
the army are borne by the Federation.*
The cantons levy the recruits, appoint the officers, ana carry on the adminis-
tration of their contingents. The Federal authorities furnish the instructors,
and exercise a general control. All legislation on military matters emanates from
them.
The array, though not a standing one, nevertheless weighs heavily upon the
Federal and cantonal budgets, and a deficit has become almost chronic since the
middle of the present century. The first Federal loan was contracted in 1867,
and fresh loans will have to be contracted in future every year unless the cantons
are called upon to cover the deficiency in the public revenue. This, however,
would be a dangerous experiment, for most of the cantons raise their revenues by
direct taxes, and would resent any increase of the heavy burden they are obliged
to bear even now. The Federal revenue is derived chiefly from customs, for the
Post and Telegraph Offices yield but a small surplus. A portion of the revenue is
• Fcder^ army (December, 1876): —
Auazia.
Staff
Infantr}', 107 battalions
Cavalry, 24 squadrons and 1 2 troops
Artillery, 60 butteries and train .
Engineers. 8 battalions
Hospital Coq« ....
Administrations ....
Permanent Instructors
Landwehr.
620
Staff
110
98,188
107 battalions
81,617
2,646 ■
24 squadrons an J 1 2 troops
2,279
15,530
23 batteries and train
7,421
2,2S6
8 battalions
1,484
887
—
292
604
187 ■
—
120.635
93,615
Each man undergoes six to eight weeks' setting-up drill, and as long as he remains in the Auszug ho
annually attends a week's or a fortnight's training, according to the branch of the army to which he
belongs.
496
SWITZERLAND.
paid over to the cantons. These latter derive their chief revenue from a propei'ly
tax of one and a half per niille.*
Bevenue and expenditure of the Confederation : —
1874
1875
1876
1878
Eevenue.
£1,873,792
1,680,640
1,659,496
1,642,600
Expenditure.
£991,295
1,370,640
1,704,880
1,684,920
The military expenditure amounted to £586,239 in 1876, as compared with £127,439 in 1872.
The public debt of the Eepublic amounts to £1,170,000. As a set-off against the debt there exists a
so-called " Federal fortune," including landed property aad invested capital. It is valued at £1,271,332,
but only yielded £1 1,736 in 1876.
The cantonal debts probably amount to £400,000.
Taxation, inclusive of what is levied by the cantons, is sufficiently onerous to excuse a great amount
of grumbling.
INDEX.
Aar, 427, 429, 430
Aar, Canal of the, 465
Aargau, 466
AbbevUle, 334
Abize, 111
Adour, 45
Adula, 406
Agdc, 118
Agde, Cap d', 110
Agen, 67
Aguillon, 67
Ahun, 200
Aigucperee, 196
Aigues-Mortes, 103, 121
Aiguillier, 182
Ajguillon, 218
Ain, 150, 153
Ain Department, 157, 386
Aire, 68, 337
Aisne Department, 310, 389
Aix, 127
Aixe, 200
Aix-ies-Bains, 145
Aiol, Valley of, 353
AJais, 120
Albert*, 23
Albert, 332
Albertville, 146
AIbi, 192
Albigeois, 191
Albula, 431
Aldemey, 269
Alen(;on, 276
Alesia, 162, 167
Alet, 115
AletKh Olacier, 400, 422
Allanac, 198
Allerard, 142
Allicr, 201, 223
AUier Department, 201, 386
Alpes-Maritimes, 134
Alpilles, 77
Alps, French, 78
Altorf, 469
Altstiittcn, 472
AmWriim, 167
Ambert, 197
AmblfteuBO, 336
Amboiae, 236
Amiens, 332
AmplepuiH, 173
Anceniii, 243
Andelys, 315
Andermatt, 393
Andrezieux, 204
Anduze, 120
Angers, 239
Angouleme, 212, 213
Aniane, 118
Aniche, 339
Annecy, 146
Annecy, Lake of, 90
Annonay, 124
Antibes, 134
Antifer, 290
Appenzell, 473
Aps, 123
Apt, 139
Aran, 31
Arbois, 159
Arbrcsle, 173
Arc, 77
Arc, Pont d', 96
Arcachon, 42, 72
Arcis-sur-Aube, 291
Arcueil, 307
Ardfeche, 95
Ardeche Department, 122, 386
Ardennes, 349
Ardennes Department, 350, 390
Ardres. 337
Argeles, Glacier of, 36
Argena, 107, 130
Argentan, 276
Argentat, 197
ArgenteuU, 309
Argenton, 233
Argovie, 467
Ariege, 56
Arlanc, 197
Aries, 63, 128
Armagnac, 65
Armentieres-sur-Lys, 340
Armissan, 117
Arques, 321
Arras, 337
Arrcau, 60
Ars-en-Re, 217
Arve, 88, 90
Asnieres, 307
Aspe, 62
Aspres, 63
Attigny, 352
Aubugiie, 127
Aube, 281
Aube Department, 291, 388
Aubenas, 122
Aubervilliers, 307
Aubin, 191
Aubusson, 200
Auch, 65
Aude, 27, 28, 106, 115
Aude Department, 116, 385
Audincourt, 160
Augst, 467
Aimiale, 321
Aunis, 210
Auray, 258
Aure, 60
Aure, River, 273
AuriUac, 194
Auriol, 127
Auterive, 58
Authion, 224
Autun, 169
Auvergne, 181
Auxerre, 290
Auxonne, 165
Avallon, 290
Avenches, 458
Aventicum, 468
Avesnes, 337
Aveyron, 66
Aveyron Department, 190, 386
ANagnon, 137
Avize, 2'J4
Avranches, 276
Ax, 56
Axenstrasse, 470
Ay, 294
Azincourt, 334
Baccarat, 354
Baden, 468
Bagnures-de-Bigoire, 60
Bagnires-de-Luchon, 66, 67
BagnoUes, 276
Bagnols-sur-Ceze, 121
Bailloil, 342
Balaruc, 119
Bale, 466
Bandols, 131
Baousse Rousse, 134, 136, 137
Bapaunie, 3'!7
Barbaste, 67
Barbezieux, 214
498
INDEX,
Barcelonnette, 140
Bareges, 62
Barfleur, 274
Bar-le-Duc, 350
Bar-sur-Aube, 291
Bar-8ur-Seine, 291
Basel, 46o
Basques in the Pyrenees, 37
Basses-Alpes, 140, 385
Basses-Pyrenees, 62, 384
Biisain, 276
Bastide, La, 193
Batz, 229, 231
Baume-les-Dames, 161
Baux, 129
Bavai, 338
Bayeux, 276
Bayonne, 63
Bazas, 69
Beam, 45, 62
Beaucaire, 121, 122
Beauce, 233
Beaufort-en- Vallee, 239
Beaugency, 234
Beaujeu, 173
Beaujolais, 173, 188
Beaumont, 65
Beaune, 167
Beauregard, 235
Beauvais, 314
Bedarieux, 117
Begles, 72
Belfort, 162
Belpech, 1 15
Bellac, 200
Bellegarde, 53, 151
BelleviUe, 173
Belley, 157
Bellinzona, 453
Berck-sur-Mer, 334
Bergerac, 199
Bergues, 342
Bern, 461
Bern, Canton, 460
Bernay, 316
Bemina, 406
Berre, 112
Berthoud, 463
Besancjon, 161, 162
Besseges, 120
B^thune, 337
Bex, 454
Bezenet, 201
Beziers, 117
Biarritz, 64
Biel, 463
Bienne, 464
Bienne, Lake of, 426
Bifevre, Plateau of, 94
Billom, 197
Bize, 117
Blamont, 354
Blanc, 233
Blanquefort, 73
Blanzy, 170
Blaye, 73
Blois, 234
Blumlisalp, 401
Socage, 276
Bodensee, 473
Bocn, 205
Bohain, 314
Bollene, 139
Bonaguil, 67
Bonfol, 467
Bonneval, 86
Bonneville, 147
Bordeaux, 69, 70
Bom, Pays de, 41, 69
Bort, 197
Bosco in Ticino, 448
Bosmoreau, 200
Bouches-du- Rhone, 124, 385
Bougival, 308
Boulogne, 307, 335
Boulogne Hills, 323
Bourbon-Lancy, 170
Bourbon-rArchamhault, 204
Bourbonne-les- Bains, 29 1
Bourbourg, 342
Bourg, 73, 157
Bourganeuf, 200
Bourg-de-Peage, 142
Bourg-d'Oisans, 143
Bourges, 232
Bourget, Lake of, 91, 92
Bourgoin, 144
Bourg St. Andeol, 123
Bourgueil, 237
Bouscat, Le, 72
Boussac, 2ul
Bou vines, 342
} Bouzigues, 119
Brantome, 199
Brassac, 197
Bray, 287
Brehat, 262
Bresse, La, 353
Bressuire, 220
Brest, 260
Bretagne, 246
Breteuil, 316
Briancjon, 139
Briare, 234
Brides, 145
Brie, 297
Brie-en-Comte, 298
Brieg, 454
Brienne, 291
Brienz, 464
Brienz, Lake of, 427
Briey, 355
Brigiiolles, 133
Brigue, 454
Brionne, 316
Brioude, 190
Brittany, 246
Brive, 198
Bnigg, 468
Brunnen, 470
Bugue, Le, 199
Burgdorf, 463
Burgundy, 148
Bussang, 353
Bussy-le-Grand, 167
Buzan(;ais, 233
Cadillac, 69
Caen, 277
Cagots, 63
Cahors, 193
Calais, 336
Calanda, Mount, 404
Galas, 189
Caluire, 172
Calvados Department, 276, 388
Camargue, 101
Cambrai, ;i38
Camembert, 276
Campan, 60
Cancale, 265
Canigou, 25
Cannes, 135, 138
Cantal, 181, 194, 386
Cap-Breton, 68
Capvcm, 62
Carcanieres, 55
Carcassonne, 116
Carentan, 247
Carhaix, 261
Carignan, 351
Carlat, 194
Carlitte, 26, 28
Carmaux, 191
Caronte, 113
Carpentras, 138
Cassel, 342
Cassis, 127
Casteljaloux, 67
Castelmoron, 67
Castelnaudary, 115
Castel-Sarrasin, 65
Caskets, 69
Castillon, 73
Castres, 193
Cateau-Cambresis. 338
Catogne, 416
Cauderan, 72
Caudry, 338
Cannes, 116
Caussade, 66
Causse of M^jean, 175, 176
Cauterets, 62 ^
Caux, 288
Cavaillon, .138
Cayeux, 334
Cazaubon, 65
Cazeres, 58
Celts, 16
Cenis, Mont, 85
Cento Valli, 394
Cerdagne, La, 28
Ceret, 53
Cerons, 69
Cette, 118
Cevennes, 174
Chabeuil, 142
Chablais, 146
Chagny, 168
Chaise- Dieu, 190
Chalabre, 115
Chalin, 152
Challes, 145
Chalonnes, 239
Chalons-sur-Mame, 293
Chalons-sur-Saone, 168
Chains, 200
Chamagne, 353
Chambery, 145
Chambon, 201
Chambon, Le, 204
Chiimbord, 235
Chamonix, 87, 147
Champagne, 284
Champagney, 164
Champagnole, 159
Champtoce, 239
Channel Islands, 266
Channel Tunnel, 328
Chantenay, 243
Chantilly, 313, 314
Chantonnay, 221
Qiarente, 206, 207, 213
Charente Department, 212, 387
Charente-Inferieure, 214, 387
Charenton, 307
Charite, 231
Charleville, 351
Charollais, 188
Charolles, 170
Chartres, 235, 236
INDEX.
499
Chartreuse, 143
Chartreuse, Grande, 82, 87
Chasseron, Mont, 4 IS
Chateaubriant, 245
Chateau-Chinon, 232
Chateau-du-Loir, 241
Chateaudun, 23i>
Chateau-Gontier, 242
Chateauneuf, 234
Chateauncuf-Itandon, 189
Chateaurenault, 237
Chateaurouz, 233
Chateau-Thierry, 311
Chateldon, 196
Chatellerault, 219
ChStiUon, 167, 233
Chatre, 233
Chauffailies, 170
Chaumont-en-Bassigny, 292
Chauny, 312
Chaussade, La, 231
Chauvigny, 219
Chaux, 160
Chaux-de-Fonds, 460
Chavagnac, 194
ChazeUee-8ur-Lyon, 205
Chenonceaux, 236
Cher Department, 232, 387
Cherbourg, 273
Chewy-les-Mines, 173
Chinon, 237
Choisy-le-Koi, 307
Cholet, 239
Chom^rac, 124
Chrishona, 466
Chur, 471
Churfirsten, 405
Cintegahello, 68
Ciotat, 127
Cirey, 354
Civray, 218
Clairac, 67
Clairv'aux, 159
Clamecv, 232
Clermont, 195. 314, 350
C'lennont-l'Herault, 118
aer>', 234
Clinon, 243
aoyee, 236
Cluny, 169
Cluses, 147
Coire, 471
Coiron, 122
, Collioure, 53
Combourg, 265
Commcntry, 201
Commercy, 350
Compifrgne, 312, 314
Concameau, 259
Cond£-gur-Noireau, 278
Condon, 65
Confolens, 212
Constanz, Lake of, 432
Corbeil, 309
Corbie, 332
Corbiferoa, 29
Cordes, 192
Comouaille, 250
Correze Department, 197, 386
Come, 231
Costabona, 53
C6te-d'()r, 161
Cotentin, 246, 270
Cotes, 73
C'6t<«-du-Nord Department, 261,
388
Cote St. Andre, 143
Cottian Alps, 78
Couches- les-Mines, 169
Coulmiers, 234
Coulommiers, 298
Conronne, La, 214
Coursan, 116
Coutances, 274
Cransac, 191
Craon, 242
Crapponne's Canal, 99
Crau of Crapponne, 99
Crecy, 334
Creil, 314
Crest, 142
Creuse Department, 200, 386
Creusot, Le, 169
Croisic, 231, 245
Crussol, 124
Cuers, 132
Cuire, 172
Culoz, 91
Cusset, 202
Dametal, 318
Dauphine, 80
Dax, 68
Decazeville, 191, 192
Decize, 231
Denain, 338
Dent du Midi, 396
Deols, 233
De^-il's Bridge, 483
Devoluy, 83
Diablerets, 402
Die, 142
Dieppe, 320
Dieu-le-Fit, 142
Digne, 140
Digoin, 170
Dijon, 165
Dinan, 263
Disentis, 472
Dives, 279
Dol, 265
Dole, 159
DoI-er-Verchant, IS
Dombes, 156
Domfront, 276
Domme, 199
Domremy, 353
Donzy, 231
Dorat, 200
Dordogne, 187
Dordogne Department, 198, 386
Dore, Mont, 183
Douai, 339
Douamenez, 260
Doubs, 151, 154
Doubs at St. Ursanne, 412
Doubs Department, 159, 386
Doue-la-Fontaine, 239
Doullens, 334
Dourdan, 309
Dover, Strait of, 328
Drac, 92, 94
Draguignan, 133
Dranse, 423
Dreux, 236
DrSme, 94
Dr6me Department, 141
Dunkirk, 343
Dun-le-Koi, 232
Durance, 97
Eanzo, 65
Ebene Flub, 481
£breuil, 202
Eeluse, L', 90, 151
Einsiedlen, 470
Elbeuf, 317
Elne, 63
Embruu, 139
Engadin, 406, 472
Enghien, 309
Entlebuch, 468
Entre-deux-Mers, 69
Epemay, 294
Epinac, 169
Epinal, 352, 353
Erdre, 226
Ernee, 242
Espaliou, 191
Eapinouze, 174, 176
Essonne, 309
Estagel, 55
Etain, 350
Etampes, 309
Etaples, 334
Etretat, 318
Eu, 321
Euro Department, 314, 389
Eure-et-Loir, 236, 387
Evaux, 201
Evien, 14"
Evreux, 316
Evron, 242
Eymoutiers, 200
Fagnes, 349
Falaise, 279
Faucigny, 146
Faucilles, 345
Faulhom, 401
Fa verges, 146
Fecamp, 319
Felletin, 200
Felsberg, 404
Ffere-Champenoise, 294
Femey, 157
Ferrieres, 298
Ferte-Bemard, 241
Ferte-Mace, La, 276
Ferte sous- jouarre, 298
Feurs, 204
Figeac, 193
Finistfere Department, 258, 388
Firminy, 204
Flemings in France, 329
Flers, 276
Fleurance, 66
Florae 189
Fohn, 436
Foix, 5.5
Fontainebleau, 297, 298
Fontenay, 290
Fontenay-le-Comte, 220
Fontenoy-le-Chateau, 354
Fontevielle, 129
FontevTault, 239
Forcalquier, 140
Forest Cantons, 469
Forez, 188
Forigny, 276
Fougeres, 265
Fougcrolles, 164
Fouillousc, 204
Four Cantons, Lake of, 429, 468
Fourchambault, 231 ,
Fourmies, 337
Franche-Comte, 148
Franqui, 109
Frauenff'ld. 473
sou
INDEX.
Freiburg, 458
Freil, 123
Frejus, 133
l<"rejiis, Pass of, 85
French national character, 20
Fresnay-le- Vicomte, 241
Fresnoy-le-Grand, 314
Frevent, 334
Fribourg, 458, 459
Frontignan, 119
Fronton, 58
Frouard, 354
Fumay, 351
Fumel, 67
Fuveau, 127
Gaillac, 193
Gaillon, 315
Gallargues, 120
Ganges, 118
Gannat, 202
Gap, 140
Gard, 96, 98
Gard, Department of, 119, 385
Gardanne, 127
Garde-Freinet, 132
Gardon, 90
Garonne, 48, 71
Gatine, 206
Gavaeherie, 69
Gavaches, 117
Gavamie, 34
Gave, 46, 62
Gauls, 14, 16
Gemmi Pass, 454
Geneva, 456
Geneva, Lake of, 423, 455
Genevre, Mont, 79
GentiUv, 307
Gerardiner, 347, 353
Gergovia, 185
Gers, 49, 50, 64
Gersau, 470
Gerson, 352
Gevaudan, 176
Gex, 157
Gien, 234
Giessbach, 464
Gignac, 118
Ginoles, 115
Giromagny, 163
Gironde, 12, 50, 52, 71
Gironde Department, 69
Gisors, 316
Givet, 352
Givors, 173
Glaciers of Switzerland, 414
Gliirnisch, 404
(ilarus, 471
Godeniar, 82
Goldau, 470
Gourdon, 193
Gournay, 321
Graisivaudan, 94
Graissessac. 117
Gramat, 193
Grand Colombier, 91
Grand' Combe, 120
Grand Croix, 204
Grande Brifere, 228
Grand Lieu, 227
Granson, 459
Granville, 275
Grassc, 136
Graubiinden, 471
Graii du Roi, 104
Graulhet, 193
Gravelines, 342
Gray, 164
Greeks in France, 18
Grenade, 68
Grenoble, 142, 144
Greoulx, 141
Grignan, 142
Grindelwald, 400, 428, 464
Gris-Nez, Capo, 324
Grisons, 471
Grisons, Alps of, 405
Gruissan, 116
Guerande, 245
Guerche, 232
Gueret, 200
Guerigny, 231
Guernsey, 268
Guines, 336
Guingamp, 262
Guise, 312
Habsburg, 468
Halluin, 341
Ham, 332
Handeck, 402
Harfleui-, 319
HasU, 402, 447
Hasparren, 63
Hautefort, 199
Haute-Garonne, 57
Haute-Saone, 163, 368
Hautes-Alpes, 139, 386
Hautes-Pyrenees, 59, 384
Hautmont, 338
Havre, 286, 317
Haye, La, 238
Hazebrouck, 342
Helvetians, 445
Hendaye, 64
Henin-Lietard, 337
HeravJt, 108, 111, 117
Herault Department, 117, 385
Heiicourt, 163
Herisau, 473
Hesdin, 334
Heve, Cap de la, 287
Hirson, 312
Hondschoote, 344
Honfleur, 279
Houdan, 309
Hy^res, 76, 131, 132
Iberians, 16
Ilanz, 471
Hie, 54
Ille-et-Vilaine Department, 265,
388
lUgraben, 396
Imphy, 231
Indre, 243
Indre Department, 232, 387
Indrc-et-Loiro, 236, 387
Indret, 243
luterlaken, 463, 464
Iseran, Mont, 86
Isere, 93
Isfere Department, 142, 385
Isle d'Albi, L', 193
Isle-Jourdain, 66
Isle, L', 138
Issoire, 197
Issoudun, 232
Ivry, 307
Ivry-la-Bataille, 316
Iwuy, 338
Jargeau, 234
Jersey, 266
Jeumont, 338
Joigny, 291
Joinville-eu-VaUage, 292
Jonzac, 214
JosseHu, 268
Joux, 157, 159
ifoux. Lake of, 413
Juf, 437
Jura, 149
Jura Department, 158, 386
Jura, Swiss, 409
Kiissnacht, 469
Labouheyre, 69
Labrit, 68
Lacaune, 193
Ladins, 448
La Fere, 312
LaFleche, 241
Lago Maggiore, 420
La Grave, Glacier of, 82
La Hougue, 274
Laigle, 276
Lalinde, 187, 199
La Manche Department, 272, 388
Lamballe, 263
Lambezellec, '-'61
Landemeau, 261
Landes, 39, 67
Landrecies, 337
Langeac, 190
Langnau, 463
Langogne, 189
Langon, 69
Langres, 291, 292
Languedoc, 20, 109
Lannemezan, 62
Lannion, 261
La Nouvelle, 116
Lans-Ie-Bourg, 145
Lanvaux, 247
Laon, 310, 312
La Reole, 69
Largentifere, 122
La Salle, 120
La Seyne, 131
Lattes, 119
Laufen, 433
Lausanne, 454
Lauterbrunnen, 464
Laval, 242
Lavaur, 193
Lavaveix, 200
Lavelanet, 55
La Voulte, 124
Leberon, 83
Lectoure, 65
Leis Mourre, 83, 85
Le Luc, 133
Leman, Lake, 423
Lens, 337
Le Pouzin, 124
Lescure, 193
Lesneven, 261
LespaiTe, 73
Lcucate, 109
Leuk, 464
Le Vigan, 119
Levroux, 233
Lez, 107
Lezignan, 116
Liboume, 73
Liestal, 465
Ligny-en-Barrois, 360
Lille, 339, 340
INDEX.
601
miebonne, 318
Liminat, 41a, 429
Limoges, 200
Limousin, 86
Limoux, 115
Linth, 430
Lion Gulf, 74
Liisieux, 279
LivTon, 142
Locarno, 453
Loches, 237
Locle, Le, 460
Locnuriaker, 258
Lodeve, 117
Loire, 12, 222
Loire Department, 204, 387
Loire, Haute, 189, 3H6
Loire-Inferieure, 242, 388
Loir-ct-Cher, 234, 387
Loiret Department, 233, 387
Lomagne, 67
Lombez, 65
Longemer, 348
Longwy, 356
Lon8-le-Saunier, 159
Lorette, 204
Lorgues, 133
Lorient, 258
Loriol, 142
Lorraine, 350
Lorris, 234
Lot, 186
Lot Department, 193, 386
Lot-et-Garonne, 67, 384
Loudeac, 261
Loudun, 219
Louerhc, 454
Louhans, 168
Lonrches, 338
Lourdes, 62
Louviers, 315
Loz^re, 189
Lozire Department, 189, 386
Lucerne, 468
Lucon, 220
Lude, Le, 241
Lugano, 453
Lugano, Lake of, 421
Lukmanier, 393
Limel, 119
Luneville, 354
Lurcy-Levv, 204
Lure, 163
Lusignan, 219
LutBthine, 428
Luyncs, 237
Luzceh, 194
Luzem, 468, 469
Luxcuil, 164
Lyons, 171
>racon, 168
Maggia, 420
Maguelone, 113
Uaine-et-Loirc, 238, 387
Maiaons-Laffittt.-, 309
Haladetta, 31
Malaue^ne, 139
Malou, La, 1 1 7
Malplaquct, 338
Marni TS, 24 1
Manowju*.', 140
Manx, I, (-,240
Maiit<H-I.i-.Iolie, 309
Maraiis, 21 H
.Mar<lii™nis, 339
Mari'q-on-Baru^ul, 340
Marennes, 216
Maritime Alps, 78
Marmande, 67
Mame, 284
Mame Department, 292, 389
Mame, Haute, 291, 389
Marquise, 336
Marseillan, 119
Marseilles, 124
Martel, 193
Martigny, 454
Martres, 58
Marvejols, 189
Mas d'Agenais, Le, 67
Mas d'Azil, 30, 56
Massiac, 194
Matterhom, 398
Maubeugo, 337
Mauleon-Licharre, 63
Mauriae, 194
Maurienne, 85
Maurs, 194
Mayenne Department, 242, 387
Mazamet, 193
Meaux, 298
Medje, 81
Medoc, 73
Mehun, 232
Meilhan, 67
MeUe, 219
Melun, 297
Menat, 197
Mende, 189
Mentone, 134
Mer, 234
Merignac, 72
Mcttray, 237
Mcung, 234
Meurthe-et- Moselle, 364, 390
Mcuse, 348, 350
Meuse Department, 350, 390
Meymac, 197
Meyringen, 402, 463
M6zc, 119
Mezcnc, 177
Mczieres, 351
Mezin, 67
Midi, Canal du, 106
Millau, 190
Mille Vachcs, 186
Uimizan, 69
Minerve, 117
Mirumout, 67
Mirandc, 65
Mirecourt, 353
Mirepoix, 55
Mischabel, 396
Mistral, 114
Moissac, 66
Monaco, 134, 379, 380
Moncrabeau, 67
Monistrol, 190
Montaner, 62
Montargis, 234
Montataire, 314
Montauban, 65
Montbard, 167
Montbeliard, 160
Mont Beuvray, 169
Mont Blanc, 86
Montbrison, 204, 205
Montceau-lcs-Mines, 169, 170
Mont CVrvin, 398
Montchanin-lcs-Mines, 170
Mont Dauphin, 139
Mont-dc-Mursan, 68
Montdidier, 332
Mont Dore, 197
Monteaux, 138
Montelimar, 142
Moutereau fault- Yonne, 298
Monte Rosa, 398
Monte Viso, 78
Montf errand, 195
Montfort, 265
Montignac, 199
MontivUliers, 320
Mont Louis, 64
Montlu(;on, 201
Montmedy, 350
Montmelian, 145
Montmirail, 294
Montmorency, 310
Montmorillon, 219
Montoire, 335
Montpellier, 119
Mont Perdu, 32
Montpont, 199
Montreal, 65
Montreuil, 307, 334
Montrichard, 235
Montrond, 205
Morat, 458
Morbihan, 248
Morbihan Department, 266, 388
Morez, 168, 169
Morgarten, 470
Morlaas, 62
Morlaix, 261, 262
Mortagne, 276
Mortain, 275
Morteau, 169
Morteratsch, 407
Morvan, 280
Moulins, 202
Moutiers, 145
Moyenmoutier, 353
Murat, 194
Muret, 58
Murten, 468
Mussidan, 199
Nancy, 354
Nantes, 242
Nantua, 152, 167
Napoleon- Vendee, 221
Narbonne, 1 1 6
Navarreux, 63
Nay, 62
Nemours, 298
N6rac, 67
N^ris, 201
Neste, 59, 60
N^thou, 32
Neuehatel, 321, 459
Neuchatel, Lake of, 426
Neufehateau, 353
NeuiUy, 307
NeuviUe, 171
Neuvy St. S^pulcro, 233
Nevers, 231
Nice, 133, 134
Niessen, 401
Niiivro Department, 230, 387
Nimes, 121
Niort, 219
Nivonne, 157
Nogent-le-Roi, 292
Nogent-le-Rotrou, 236
Nogent-sur-Mame, 307 .
Nogcnt-sur-Scine, 291
Noirmoutier, 209, 221
Nolay, 167
Nontion, 199
502
INDEX.
Nontronnais, 198
Nord Department, 337, 389
Nonnandy, Lower, 270
Normans, 18
Nouzon, 351
Novou, 314
Nu'its, 167
Nyons, 141
Oberland, 399, 460
Oisans, 80
Oise, 285
0186 Department, 314, 389
Oleron, 217 '
Oloron, 63
Olten, 465
Orange, 138
Orb, 106
Orbe, 412
Orchies, 339
Orgelet, 159
Omans, 162
Ome Department, 275, 388
Orleans, 234
Ornolac, 31
Orthoz, 62
Ossau, 62
Ossun, 61, 62
Ostermimdingen, 463
Ouessant, 251
OuUins, 172 •
Oze, 167
Pagny, 354
Paimboeuf, 229, 244
Paimbol, 262
Paladru, Lake of, 94
Palsiis, Le, 258
Palisse, La, 204
Pamiers, 55
Panissieres, 205
Pantin, 307
Paray-le-Moniel, 170
Paris, 299
Paris Basin, 285
Parthenav, 220
Pas-de-Calais, 334, 390
Patavas, 119
Pau, 62
Pauillac, 73
Pelvoux, Mont, 80
Penne, 67 •
Perche, Col de la, 27
P^rigueux, 199
Femes, 138
Peronne, 332
Peronne-sur-Somme, 331
Perpignan, 64
Pertc du Rhone, 89
Pertuis, 98, 139
Pertus, 25
Petit-Quevillv, 318
Peypin, 127
Peyrehorade, 68
Pczenas," 118
Pfaffors, 472
Pfaffikon, 443
Pierre a Niton, 416
Pierrefort, 194
Pierre-Pertuis, 411
Pilatus, 403
Pile dwellings, 445
Pithiviers, 234
Ploermel, 267
Plombicres, 354
Poissy, 309
Poitiers, 219
Poitou, 211
Polignac, 190
Poligny, 159
Pons, 214
Pont-a-Mousson, 354
Pontarlier, 159
Pont d'Audcmer, 316
Pont-de-Noblat, 200
Pont-de-Roide, 160
Pont-de-Vaux, 157
Pontgibaud, 197
Pontivy, 258
Pont-1'Abbe, 260
Pont-1'Eveque, 279
Pontoise, 310
Pont St. Esprit, 121
Ponts, 412
Ponts-de-Ce, Les, 239
Porrentruy, 466, 467
Portel, Le, 335
Port-Louis, 2o8
Port-Miou, 108
Port Ste. Marie, 67
Port-Vendres, 53, 54
Pougues, 231
Pouillon, 68
Pouilly-sur-Loire, 231
Pourrieres, 77, 132
Prades, 54
Prats-de-MoUo, 63
Preste, 63
Privas, 123
Provence, 75
Provins, 298
Pruntrut, 467
Puteaux, 307
Puy de Dome, 184
Puv-de-D6me Department, 195, 386
Puy de Sancy, 183
Puy-en-Velais, 189
Puy, Le, 180
Puy-1'Eveque, 194
Puymaurens, 28, 29
Pyrenees, 23
Pyrenees-Orientales, 53, 384
Queyras, 79
(iuiberon, 249
Quievy, 338
Quillain, 115
Quimper, 259
Quimperle, 259
Rabastens, 193
Ragatz, 472
Ramberv'illers, 353
Rarabouillet, 309
Raon-l'Etape, 353
Re, 209, 217
Redon, 265
Reims, 294, 296
Remiremont, 363
Remoulins, 121
Rcnnes, 265
Rennes-les-Bains, 115
Rethel, 352
Reuss, 429
Revel, 59
Rhaetians, 446
Rhine, 431
Rhone, 12
Rhone Delta, 101
Rh6ne Department, 171
Rhone Glacier, 422
Rhone, River, 74, 89, 396
Ria, 64
Riberac, 199
Ricamarie, 204
Richelieu, 238
Riez, 141
Rigi, 403
Riols. 1 1 7
Riom, 196
Rive-de-Gier, 204
Rives, 143
Rivesaltes, 55
Riviere, 60
Roanne, 205
Robiac, 120
Rocamadour, 193
Rochechouart, 200
Rochefort, 215
Rochefoucauld, 214
Rochelle, 216, 217
Roche-sur-Yon, 221
Rocroy, 352
Rodoz, 190
Rohan, 258
Roland's Breach, 33
Romanche, 94
Romans, 142
Romans in France, 1 8
Romanshom, 473
Romilly, 291
Romorantin, 235
Roncevaux Pass, 63
Ronchamps, 163
Roquebrune, 134
Roquefort, 175, 190
Roquevaire, 127
Rorschach, 473
Rosieres, 332
Rossberg, 404
Roubaix, 340, 341
Rouen, 316, 317
Roussiilou, 55
Royan, 216
Roye, 332
Rueil, 309
Rumilly, 146
Ruoms, 178
Sable, 241
Sables-d'Olonne, 220, 221
St. Affrique, 190
St. Aignan, 235
St. Alban, 189
St. Amand, 231
St. Amand-lcs-Eaux, 339
St. Amand-Mont-Rond, 232
St. Amans-Soult, 193
St. Ambroix, 120
St. Amour, 159
St. Antonin, 66
St. Aubin-du-Cormier, 265
St. Benoit, 234
St. Bernard, Little, 85, 87
St. Bonnet-le-Chateau, 204
St. lirieuc, 262
St. Calais, 242
St. Chamond, 204
St. Chinian, 117
St. Claude, 158
St. aoud, 308
St. Cyr, 308
St. Denis, 307
St. Didier, 190
St. Die, 353
St. Dizier, 292
St. Eloy, 197
St. Etienne, 203, 204
St. Etienne-de-Rouvray, 317
St. Eutrope, 214
INDEX.
608
St. Florentin, 291
St. Florent-Ie-Vieil, 239
St. flour, 194
St. Gallen, 472
St. Galmier, 205
St. Gaudens, 58
St. Gcniez, 191
St. Genis, 172
St. Georges d'Orques, 119
St. Germain-cn-Laye, 308
St. Gervais, 147
St. Gilles, 1U3, 121
St. Girons, 56
St. Gobain, 312
St. Gotthard, 392
St. Gotthard Pass, 484
St. Gotthard Tunnel, 485
St. HeUer, 268
St. Hilair«-du-Harcouet, 275
St. Hippolvte-le-Fort, 120
St. Jean-d'Angely, 218
St. Juan-dc-Losne, 165
St. Jean-de-Luz, 64
St. Jean Maurienne, 145
St. Jean-Picd-de-Port, 63
St. Julien, 1*7
St. Julien-en-Jarret, 204
St. Junien, 200
St. Laurent de la Salanque, 55
St. Leonard, 200
St. Lizier, 57
St. L6, 274
St. Louis, 28, 103
St. Lucon, 220
St. Slaixent, 219
St. Malo, 26 S 264
St. >[arcellin, 143
St. Martin-Lantosquc, 136
St. Maurice, 454
.St. Maximin, 132
St. Michel, Mont, 252
St. Michel-Rochefort, 312
St. Jlihiel, 350
et. Moritz, 472
St. Nazaire, 131, 244
St. Nicolas-du-Port, 354
8t Omer, 337
St. Oucn, 307
St. Ouen-l'Aumfine, 310
St. Paul-en-Jarret, 204
St. Paulien, 190
St. P^rav, 124
St. Peter's Port, 269
St. Point, 151
St. Pol, 261, 334
St. Pons, 117
St. Pour(;ain, 202
St. Pri<'»t, 124
St. Qucntin, 311, 313
St. Quintin, 262
St. Rambert, 204
St. Kambert-de-Joux, 157
St. Itemy, 128
St. Sauveur, 62
St. Savinien, 215
St. Scrvan, 263
St. Sever, 68
St. Tropez, 132
St. TJrsanne, 161
St. Vaaat, 274
St. Valery-en-Caux, 320
St. Valir\--aur-Son)me, 334
St. Vallier, 142
St. Veran, 80
St. Yricix, 199
Ste. Colombe, 116
8te. Foy, 172
Ste. Foy-la-Grande, 73
Ste. Maure, 239
Ste. Menehould, 297
Saintes, 215
Saintes-Maries, 129
Salanque, 55
Salat, 58
Salers, 194
Salies, 63
Salins, 159
Sallanches, 147
Salohres, 55
Salon, 128
Salses, no
Sancerre, 232
Sancoins, 232
Sansan, 65
Saone, 153
Saone-et- Loire, 167, 386
Saou, Forest of, 83, 84
Sarlat, 199
Samen, 470
Sarracolin, 60
Sarthe Department, 239, 387
Sarzeau, 258
Sathonay, 157
Saumur, 238
Sauve, 120
Sauvcterre, 63
Saverdun, 55
Savoy, 84, 144, 385
Sceaux, 307
Schaffhausen, 473, 474
Schaffhausen, Falls of, 432
•'•chinznach, 468
Schlucht, 346
Schwyz, 469, 470
Sedan, 351
Sees, 276
Seiches, 423
Seine, 12, 280
Seine-et-Mame Department, 297,
389
Seine-et-Oise Department, 307, 389
Seine-Inferieure, 316, 389
SeUes, 235
Selvretta, 408
Semnoz, 92
Sempach, 469
Semur, 167
Senlis, 314
Senoncs, 353
Sens, 291
Sentis, 405
Serk, 268
Settons, 281
Seurre, 165
Sivres, 308
S6vres, Deux, 219, 387
Seyssel, 91, 167
Sezanne, 294
Sigean, 116
SiUe-le-Guillaume, 241
Sillery, 294
Simmenthal, 476
Sion, 454
Sisteron, 140
Sitten, 454
Soissons, 311
Solesmcs, 338
Soleurc, 464
Sollies-Pont, 132
Sologne, 225, 227
Solothum, 464
Sorame, 322, 331
Somme Department, 331, 389
Sommiferes, 120
Soreze, 193
Sorgues of Vaucluse, 96
Sotteville, 317
Sotto-Cenere, 395, 453
Soulae, 73
Souterraine, 201
Souvigny, 203
Stanz, 469
Staubbach, 464
Stcenwerk, 342
Stenav, 3oO
Sully," 234
Sumene, 119
Sumiswald, 463
Switzerland, 391
Taillebouig, 215
Tain, 142
Tarare, 173
Tarascon, 55, 129
Tarasp, 408, 472
Tarbes, 61
Tarentaise, 145
Tarn Department, 191, 386
Tam-et-Garonne, 65, 384
Tayac, 198
Tech, 63
Terrasson, 199
Terrenoire, 204
Tertry, 332
Tessin, 463
Teste de Buch, 73
Tet, 54
Thau, 110
Therouanne, 337
Thiers, 196
Thiriers, 199
Thizy, 173
Thones. 146
Thor, 138
Thorins, 169
Thoron, 146, 147
Thouars, 220
Thun, 463
Thun, Lake of, 427
Thurgau, 473
Ticino, 393, 453
Ticino, Alps of, 394
Ticino, River, 419
Tinchebrai, 276
TitUs, 402, 403
Toce Valley, 395
Tbdi, 404
Toggenburg, 473
Tonnay-Charente, 216
Tonneins, 67
Tonnerre, 291
Toul, 354
Toulon, 130
Toulouse, 68, 59
Toulx St. Croix, 201
Touques, 279
Touraine, 222
Tourcoing, 340, 342
Tour-du-l'in, 144
Tournon, 124
Toumus, 168
Tours, 236, 237
Touvre, 207
Travers, 410
Trcguier, '.',01
Treignac, 198
Tremblade, La, 216
Tr^port, 32 1
Tretz, 127
Trevoux, 157
Trouville, 279
504
INDEX.
Troves, 291
Truffles of Perigord, 84
Tschierva Glacier, 407
Tulle, 197
Tullins, 143
Turenne, 198
Uchtland, 458
Uetliberg, 471
Under velier, 411
TJnterwalden, 469
IJri, 469
IJssel, 197
lister, 471
TJzerche, 198
XJzes, 121
Vaocarfes, 102
Vaison, 138
Valais, 454
Valen(;ay, 233
Valence, 142, 143
Valence d'Agen, 66
Valenciennes, 338, 339
Valensoles, 141
Vallauris, 135
Vallespir, 53
Valloire, 94
Valmy, 297
Valognes, 274
Val Piora, 393, 394
Valreas, 139
Valserine, 91
Vanves, 258, 307
Var, 108
Var Department, 130, 385
Varennes, 350
Vassv, 292
Vatan, 233
Vaucluse, 95, 136, 385
Vaucouleiirs, 350
Vaud, 454
Vauvert, 121
Velay, 179
Vendee, 206, 220, 387
Vendome, 235
Venissieux, 172
Ventoux, 83
Vercors, 83
Verdon, 78, 99, 100
Verdon, Le, 73
Verdun, 3oO
Vemet, 54
Vemeuil, 316
Vernon, 315
Versailles, 307
Vervius, 312
Verzasca, 419
Vesoul, 164, 165
Vevey, 464
Vexin, 288
Vezfere, 198
Via Mala, 431
Vic de Sos, 65
Vic-Fezensac, 65
Vichv, 202
Vic-s'ur-Cfere, 194
Vidaubon, 133
Vidourle, 107
A^ege, 454
Vienne, 144
Vienne Department, 218, 387
Vienne, Haute, 199, 386
Vierwaldstiitter See, 429, 468
Vierzon, 232
Villedieu-les-Poeles, 274
Villefranche, 58, 134, 173, 191
Villemur, 69
Villeneuve, 68
Villeneuve-sur-Lot, 67
Villeneuve-su^:-Yonne, 291
Villers-Bretonneux, 332
Villers-Cotterets, 311
Villeurbanne, 172
Vimoutiers, 276
Vinay, 143
Vin(;a, 54
Vincennes, 307
Vindonissa, 408
Viie, 276
Visp, 399, 454
Vitre, 265
Vitry, 307
Vitrj--le-Fi-an(jois, 293
Vivarais, 122, 177
Viviers, 123
Vizille, 142
Voiron, 143
Volvic, 186, 196
V^osges, 345
Vosgos Department, 352, 390
Vouvray, 237
Vouziers, 36?
Waat, 454
Wiiggis, 469
Wald, 471
"VValdenses, 80, 81
Wallon, Lake, 429
WaUis, 454
Wattignies, 338
Wattrelos, 342
Wattwyl, 473
Vl^indgalle, 404
Winterthur, 471
Xertigny, 354
Tonne, 281
Yonne Department, 290, 388
Yssingeaux, 190
Yverdun, 469
Yvetot, 318
Zermatt, 399
Zofinger, 467
Zug, 470
Zug, Lake of, 429
Zurich, 470
END OF VOL. II.
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