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IN 1847-48. 

Time, as it courses onward, still unrols the volume of concealment. 


VOL. I. 



Printed by J. & H. COX (Beotueks), 74 & "5, Great Queen Street, 
Lincoln's-Inn Fields. 


The events of one year — a year the most 
singular, perhaps, which the history of 
modern Europe has to record — appear 
to throw into the distance of time those 
which, even immediately, preceded it. Such 
a sentiment will probably be felt by the 
reader of these Volumes. The style is that 
of a record of passing occurrences ; the light 
character of a work designed more for 
amusement than instruction was best pre- 
served by maintaining that style. It should, 
however, be remembered that the time 
spoken of as present, has actually passed 
away. But while one year has produced a 
change so universal as to render a book of 
travels previous to 1848 a work of anti- 
quitt/, to the author's own mind it is not 
uninteresting to find that the opinions or 
remarks expressed in these Volumes, as 



having been made during a journey through 
countries so soon to be convulsed by revolu- 
tion, were mostly true guesses at events 
the7i future, but now historical. Other sen- 
timents, which, at the time, the writer never 
had heard otherwise mentioned, have now 
become more general. Eighteen hundred 
and forty-eight left us in peace at home ; 
yet its influence has been shed over England 
also, and is becoming more and more visible 
in the development of opinion. 

The friends who read this narrative of 
the events of a journey from Stockholm to 
Rome, will know that it was made at a time 
when the elements of revolution were every- 
where at work, or ready for explosion. They 
will know, also, that, while it ended with 
the author's arrival in England almost si- 
multaneously with the King of the French, 
its complete record on paper could not be 
commenced until tidings reached us of the 
Pope's flight to Gaeta. 

May 9, 1849. 



It was in the Djurgard, on one of those fes- 
tive occasions in which the good people of 
Stockholm delight, that I first saw Evelyn. 

There was a royal supper in honour of his 
present majesty of Denmark, at the pretty 
villa of Rosendal, or the Vale of Roses, built 
by the late king, Bernadotte, in that charm- 
ing deer-park, or djurgard, wherein, however, 
there are no deer. 

All the world poured forth thither from 
the capital of Sweden; the shops were closed 
— the streets deserted. My good friend Fru 
P. was as much alive as any of the com- 
munity, and quite as anxious to go forth 
with due loyalty to see King Oscar eat his 
supper ; so she took me with her in a pretty 
boat with a square green and white awning, 

VOL. I. B 


paddled by the stout Dahlkuller, across the 
lovely Millar, to behold a scene which, in 
some respects, was certainly unlike any fes- 
tive scene I had ever witnessed. 

Independently of the human creatures who 
have rendered that evening to me one of 
almost romantic interest, the season and the 
scenes were too singularly beautiful and 
novel to be easily effaced, even from an over- 
loaded memory. 

In summer there is no night here : the 
invisible sun has left its light when its beams 
are withdrawn ; but when we set out for the 
Djurgard, those gorgeous beams were not 
extinguished ; and Stockholm, the bright 
Venice of the north, viewed from the western 
side, flashing in reflected light from the 
radiancy of a sinking sun, appears to a daz- 
zled stranger like some enchanted city of 
palaces, rising from the waters, and illumined 
by the many-coloured northern lights. 

The windows of the glitteringly white 
houses, six and eight stories high, being 
double, have the outer sash level with the 
walls, a circumstance which adds consider- 
ably to the effect ; when, mingled with the 
curious variety of colouring in the pale blue 


and yellow wooden buildings, houses, steeples, 
palaces, and churches throw back on the 
spectator the gorgeous tints of a richly 
setting sun. 

It was at such a moment that Stockholm 
presented to me an appearance of indescrib- 
able beauty and grandeur. The romantic 
aspect of the surrounding rocky and woody 
scenery gives it a charm, which the queen, 
or rather the mournful widow, of the Adri- 
atic, lacks. Rapidly-rolling streams of fresh 
and salt water intersect the town, and throw 
up here and there broken waves, and light 
thin clouds of spray, which, catching the pris- 
matic rays of evening, add their rainbow 
hues to the dazzling effect of the many- 
windowed and sparkling houses, and give to 
the whole scene, rising thus from the wooded 
lake at one side, and the ocean at the other, 
an aspect that to the eye of fancy is magical. 
On this occasion the Dalecarlian giant- 
esses were in their holiday attire. These 
industrious creatures, the Dahlkuller, or 
peasant women of Dalecarlia, as we name the 
province of Dalarne, gleaned some crumbs 
from his majesty's supper, in the shape of 
copper skillings. It would be a species of 


heresy to prefer their boats to the time and 
romance-honoured gondolas of Venice ; I 
must not therefore say whether they are 
cleaner or prettier, — let Venice keep, if she 
can, her gondolas, and Stockholm her paddle- 
boats. The holiday garb of the Dalecarlian 
boatwomen consists of a jacket, or boddice, 
of red leather, with shoulder-straps, but no 
sleeves, open in front, and laced across, at a 
pretty wide interval, with a silvery-looking 
cord, having islet-holes and clasps of the 
same bright metal, and underneath a sto- 
macher adorned with fringes. The under 
garment is of coarse, but white, linen, with 
long and very wide sleeves ; a thick petticoat, 
fully plaited, reaches a little, a very little, 
below the knee, economizing in length what 
it expends in breadth ; a many-bordered 
apron is curiously worked into it — a still 
further saving of material. Their awfully 
stout legs are cased in scarlet worsted stock- 
ings, and shoes " of a most exquisite fashion," 
as the dainty Amy Robsart would have said, — 
the thick wooden sole being, for about half 
its length, raised some inches higher than 
the remaining portion, and these "high heels" 
certainly add a good deal to their reputed 


Stature. The head-dress is a sort of skull- 
cap, of scarlet, or white, generally knitted, 
and without a border, though adorned also 
with the favourite fringes ; and this being 
worn far back on the head over their thick 
hair, might have a pretty bo7inet d" enfant 
effect, when worn by a young girl — if indeed 
a Dahlkulla is ever young ; I only saw one 
who looked so, and she reminded me of a 
picture of the ogre's daughter who lived in 
the days of Jack the giant-killer. Some 
people say the Dahlkuller are handsome ; 
some, they are hideous. I certainly do be- 
lieve that they have the worst noses and 
the best teeth and hearts in the world. 

Do not let any one suppose that the cos- 
tume I have described is to be seen every 
day in the week ; or that I want to represent 
the boatwomen of Malaren as a French ar- 
tist paints the weather-browned wood-car- 
riers of the Pyrenees. I only describe what 
I saw on a festive occasion. In winter, for 
example, you may see a sheep-skin, worn in 
the reverse manner from that in which a 
sheep wears it, — forming their sweetly simple 
and patriarchal attire ; not that I mean to 
infer, as some one at my elbow hints, that 


the petticoat, &e. do not maintain their 

Such were our picturesque boatwomen, 
not rowers, for the tiny barks are impelled 
by paddles, turned by hands instead of by 
steam ; and this manual exercise being al- 
ternately exerted by the two women em- 
ployed, gave a pretty dancing appearance 
over the lake, which was covered with these 
water-carriages of Stockholm. 

Backwards and forwards flitted the gay 
little boats ; the Dalecarlians had not long" 
to sit knitting or sewing, until each was laden 
again with the loyal citizens of his Swedish 
majesty; then the little tinkling bell sounded, 
and they were off, paddling their cargoes 
backwards and forwards to Djurgarden, while 
the road that led more circuitously and less 
agreeably to the same centre of attraction, 
was literally thronged with droskies, carioles, 
handsome carriages, walkers, riders, people 
of all ages, classes, and conditions, moving 
in any way they could, to and from the 
royal villa of the Valley of Roses, or Ro- 
sendal, but with more gravity, quietness, an4 
decorum, than is sometimes seen at a funeral. 


As we were slowly proceeding in the same 
direction, two carriages, with four horses 
each, dashed past us; the king raised his 
white plumed hat far from his head, the 
queen graciously bowed ; and as I felt it 
was very pleasant to get such a fine bow 
from the king of Sweden, I could not help 
recollecting the tone of regret in which an 
old, impoverished, miserable officer of " the 
empire" used to say to me, long ago — " Ah ! 
if I had never flogged Bernadotte, when he 
served in my corps !" 

The Djurgard is a charming spot. The 
splendid oaks, the undulating grounds, the 
grand masses of rock overlooking such lovely 
views ; the cafes I could dispense with, 
though they were now very gay, and most of 
them bristling with military; but all the 
rest made me sigh for such a retreat for our 
toil-doomed citizens of London. The king, 
for the benefit of his present ally, the ci- 
devant arch-enemy of Sweden, Denmark, had 
held a splendid review on the Ladugards- 
gard, where, I suppose I should, in traveller- 
phrase, inform the world, " may be seen as 
fine a body of men" (judging from the half- 


dozen officers I have known), " as any in 
Europe/' There were a good many of them 
still about Blaiie Pforten. 

But we went on to Rosendal, and in the 
space before that royal villa we found a 
dense mass of living creatures, motionless 
as the "Blue-Posts" itself; their heads were 
about as close together, and as evenly placed 
for walking over, as the huge paving-stones 
of their streets. Not a word was heard, 
scarcely the slightest movement seen ; and, 
almost as moveless, before their eyes ap- 
peared the whole royal family of Sweden ; 
the queen, the princess, the queen dowager, 
&c., attired in simple mourning costume, 
with shawls and lemon-coloured bonnets, 
quite a la JFranfaise, were seated in a row 
in the balcony, and behind them, in the 
open window, stood Oscar I., the crown 
prince, the younger princes, and his present 
majesty of Denmark. 

A splendid military band, stationed at a 
little distance, was all that disturbed the 
silence, though not the harmony of the 
scene ; the music was worthy of the land 
of Lind, and certainly the military we saw 


were worthy of the soldier-king who was no 

For the space of two hours the silent 
crowds enjoyed the privilege of gazing on 
that balcony ; and almost beneath the royal 
eyes a poor woman was crouching on the 
grass over her basket of cakes (there was 
no policeman there to seize her gently by 
the shoulder), and apparently bargaining 
with an old man, who, holding one of them 
in his hand, turned it over and over, and 
then, in answer to the up-turned eyes, drop- 
ped it into the basket again. 

The motto on Bernadotte's coin is, " The 
love of my people is my reward." Is that 
love ever obtained when kings are a pageant 
and a wonder, and close their eyes and their 
senses from the sight of their people's poverty 
and lowliness ? Behind a small grove, not 
more than thirty yards from the royal win- 
dows, through which the brilliant supper- 
table was seen ready prepared, a booth was 
erected, which offered all sorts of familiar 
compounds for sale, for the refreshment of 
the loyal subjects of good King Oscar, under 
the fatigues of their long gaze. 


" There is no truth at all in mesmerism," 
whispered Fru P., laughing, " or their ma- 
jesties would have been asleep long ago, with 
all these eyes fastened on them." 

But their majesties were not asleep ; for 
the queen — and every movement of the 
grand-daughter of Josephine must be grace 
— swayed at times slightly on her seat as 
she said a word to the portly dowager, or 
to the slender young princess, or turned 
back her head to her royal husband, or his 
guest, who bent and smiled, and then all 
was moveless again, among the crowd below, 
and in the balcony above ; until, perhaps, 
a chamberlain appeared in his elegant dress, 
a long-skirted dress coat, of dark blue, trim- 
med with rich gold lace, the rest of his 
attire pure white, delivered or received a 
message, and disappeared again. 

And still the people stood silent, and 
gazed ; no head was uncovered, no accla- 
mations raised, scarcely a whisper seen to 
pass, and no word heard. The voice of 
Fru P. caused some wandering looks to be 
directed to us, as if asking — who is so rude 
as to talk in public, and to laugh too ? 

So, as we did not intend to join in the 


mesmerizing of royalty, we went off, passed 
round into the gardens, and saw the splendid 
porphyry vase, the finest in the world, they 
say, large enough for a bath for Odin, but 
too beautiful for such a purpose, and made 
at the manufactory of Elfsdal, in the re- 
nowned province of Dalecarlia. Then we 
moved on, away into the distance, escaping 
from crowds, but not from noise, for, with 
the most perfect unrestraint, the solemnity 
and decorum of a religious ceremonial ap- 
peared to be observed by all sorts and con- 
ditions of people ; and we wandered away 
through Djurgarden, and got among great 
oak trees and rocks — such fine old trees, 
such great brown rocks — and there, sitting 
alone, in a spot where no one would think 
of finding her, where no one but ourselves, 
I believe, would have thought of straying 
to — did Fru P., in that utter solitude, dis- 
cover Evelyn. 

She had wandered out there from the gar- 
dens of Rosendal, and had nothing on her 
head but the white handkerchief laid over it, 
which is not an uncommon fashion Avith the 
maidens of Sweden when in the country. 

A gleam of most radiant hair, catching 


through the foliage the declining sunbeams, 
appeared to shed a brightness " on the shady 
place." That hair, which always struck me 
as the most remarkable part of her appear- 
ance, concealed her face, while she sat lean- 
ing forward, and looking like the musing 
spirit of the legend-haunted scenes in which 
we were ; — a fair water-spirit, pining for the 
forbidden mortal love which alone could give 
it " a soul." 

When she raised her face, at our approach, 
I beheld one which ever after left a sweet, 

" Troubled memory on my breast." 

Why should I wish to describe it ? I only 
know one way of giving an idea of it — 
Guide's Beatrice Cenci — at least the picture 
so called : copies of it in all styles are plenty 
enough in England ; but whoever has seen 
the original in the Barbarini Palace can guess 
what I mean — the white handkerchief that 
lay on her head, as she half turned it round 
at the sound of our steps, was perhaps what 
first gave me the idea of this likeness ; but 
there was the same innocent, frightened 
regard ; the same supplicating and depre- 
cating gaze ; the same pure, delicate, mar- 


tyrized expression of face, the same round 
coral lips, telling of more sorrow than the 
half-terrified eyes ; the same clear com- 
plexion ; the same sweetness and sorrow — 
as Guido fastened down on canvas. But the 
hair of Guido's portrait is too auburn ; 
Evelyn's did, without any figure of speech, 
look like threads of gold, yet without a shade 
of red ; but instead of the blue eyes which 
would appear the more appropriate feature 
in a face so fair, hers were large and lumi- 
nous hazel ; thus the delicately traced eye- 
brows and eyelashes, partaking of their 
brown hue, did not strikingly contrast with 
the almost glittering brightness of her beau- 
tiful hair. Her colour had faded ; but still 
there was a warm pinky hue in her pure 
cheeks, not so deep as the sea-shell, or even 
as the blush-rose, yet the colour was as deli- 
cately shaded as that of the shell, and the 
white as perfect as that of the rose. 

This complexion, as well as the expres- 
sion of the sweet face, appeared not quite its 
native one ; it seemed to have lost a ruddier 
bloom too soon ; — the peach bloom of youth 
had not yielded to nature. The whole aspect 
was timid and affectionate, like that of the 


startled fawn, with some nervous apprehen- 
sion of an undefined danger in its expres- 
sion ; those large beautiful eyes, when they 
looked fully at you, seemed to supplicate 
sympathy, even protection. 

Why was it that my heart at once de- 
sired to approach that of the fair, lovely girl, 
yet I felt it was unapproachable ? 

There might be something rather mystic 
in her aspect, as she sat on the bare granite 
rocks beneath the great old trees, and in 
the shadowy light of that romantic northern 
sky. Its influence fell upon me. I have 
known that foreshadowing of the future 
many times, and seldom has it proved un- 

" Your beautiful compatriote," whispered 
Fru P., and Evelyn's silvery accents, as she 
replied to her frank, joyous salutation, spoke 
to me at once of my island home. 

A ray of pleasure shone, like sunlight over 
snow, on her fair countenance when she saw 
me. We sat on the rocks beside her ; and 
Fru P., amusing herself, let us talk as we 
pleased. A similarity of taste and feeling is 
usually discovered at once, if it is to be dis- 
covered at all : I am a devout believer in the 


doctrine whereon the theory of animal mag- 
netism is founded. 

Evelyn's manner and conversation were 
merely those of a simple-minded, and per- 
haps too sensitive, girl ; I was not brought 
into contact with a mind at all out of the 
common order ; and we were reclining at our 
ease, speaking together like old friends newly 
met, when — alas ! even in the remote places 
of the Djurgard one is liable to such disturb- 
ances, — a quick, manlike step came sound- 
ing on, and stopped on turning round the 

" Lady Evelyn," cried a young, fine-look- 
ing, fair-headed officer, in the uniform of 
the royal guards — dark blue and red, with a 
plumed cap, like what our Highlanders of 
the glorious 42nd used to wear — " I have 
found you at last ! " 

Evelyn did not appear to be equally re- 
joiced to be found. 

" Is my presence required, baron?" she 

" Not now !" was the response, as he 
threw himself on the turf at her feet : 
turning to hers a countenance whose open 
and winning expression gave a force, beyond 


that of common-place gallantry, to these 
two words. 

Evelyn slightly coloured, and then the 
bright pink that overspread her face quite 
took away the asjDCct of singularity that had 
at first struck me rather forcibly. 

"Why did you follow me, baron?" she 
asked in a tone of reproof; "I have met a 
countrywoman here, whose society, you know, 
nmst be preferable to me to all other." 

The young man sprang to his feet ; with 
a flushed countenance and haughty apology 
he was turning away, when Evelyn's depre- 
cating eyes were raised to his ; but as the 
murky cloud on his open brow was fleeing 
before the soft brightness of those sweet 
orbs, a royal chamberlain appeared in sight. 

"See!" cried Fru P., laughing, "there 
is no use of quarrelling, for you are both 
sent for, and must go home like good chil- 

The chamberlain had indeed come with a 
message, he said, from the baroness, who 
was uneasy at Evelyn's absence. 

" You must apologize to your mother," 
she said, rising, and nodding her head at 


the young baron ; " it was you asked me to 
go into the gardens." 

" Yes/' he replied, rather stiffly, " but I 
did not ask you to go out of them, Lady 
Evelyn, while you sent me back with a 
message. '^ 

She smiled, probably at her own little 
ruse^ and taking my hand, said — 

" Shall I see you soon ? " then, without 
waiting for an answer, asked Fru P. if I 
did not intend to leave Stockholm shortly. 

" Very shortly, unless you or the baron 
detain her," said the malicious Fru, in a 

" He could not, and I would not," replied 
Evelyn, with some emphasis on the could 
and would. 

She waved her hand, and went off with 
her double escort. 

" That fine young. man has lost his heart 
to your fascinating countrywoman," said 
Fru P., looking after the graceful three, as 
they disappeared among the trees — " What 
a pity !" 

" He will s,ureiy find one in exchange," I 


" Not there," she replied, shaking her 
head like a puzzled doctor; "I do truly 
fear there is no heart to give." 

" How ? Lady Evelyn appears only too 
susceptible; too much, for her own peace, 
inclined to pity and love." 

" That may be ; but if she does not love, 
or pity another, depend upon it she has a 
real aversion to matrimony." 

I could not help laughing at the awful 
face with which these words were pro- 

" Well, I scarcely think her love could 
be hopeless ; but as to your latter suspicion, 
surely in one so young, and so very lovely, 
that disinclination may be got over." 

" Perhaps so ; but if so, the baron is not 
the man who is to awaken this sleeping 
beauty. I assure you she turned quite pale 
the other day, when I said something to her 
of his devotion, and hinted, merely hinted, 
the probability of her becoming a genuine 
Swede, and forgetting that little England 
altogether. You see she has all that sweet 
softness of disposition and looks, which lead 
you to say quite openly your thoughts and 
sentiments ; and then, directly, you feel you 


have done sometliing quite wrong, given 
some secret pain, or dealt a blow where you 
meant a caress ; and the worst of it is, that 
she has not our command of either coun- 
tenance or manner, but lets every heart- 
twinge be plainly seen. In short, my dear, 
with all her beauty, and it is marvellous, 
just like one of the angels ; though, to be 
sure, no one ever saw them, — at least not of 
late years, — but with all her angelic beauty, 
the fair Evelyn is not an easy person to deal 
with ; and as for that fine, handsome, happy- 
hearted young baron, I believe in my heart 
pretty Lilla would suit him better; and 
perhaps it is just as well he should leave it 
to some one else to get over Lady Evelyn's 
matrimonial antipathies. Oh ! yes ; depend 
upon it, it is better." 

There was that in Fru P.'s face which 
somehow seemed to reconcile one to the 
mysterious contrarieties of life ; and when 
she said — it is better — you felt, despite your 
opposing will, almost persuaded to think it 
was so. 

" Has she been long here ? " I asked, as 
we walked back to our Dalecarlians and 
their boat. 


" Since last October : she came just after 
the ice set in. You know it was severe last 
winter. On that account the arrival of an 
English lady was a strange event ; but the 
circumstances of her arrival were stranger." 

" What were these ? " 

" I can tell you something about it. Fru- 

herren C , you know, is my old and 

best friend. Well, she was ill ; and I was 
staying with her and Lilla. Some letters 
had come, but the baroness, thinking they 
were only on business, had not opened them. 
When her son was off duty at the palace, 
she made him do so. There was one which 
required immediate attention ; it came from 
an old friend of the baroness, whom she had 
not seen for years ; that lady had resided 
in Austria, or Hungary, or somewhere, I am 
not sure where ; she wrote, however, from 
Ystad, which, you know, is one of our fron- 
tier towns on the Baltic. She said she had 
just landed there with an English lady, whom 
she was anxious to convey to the baroness's 
care ; or, at least, to Stockholm, under her 
own care, as she had wished to return and 
end her days there ; but she was ill, she 
could not get further ; she implored Fru- 


herren C to come or send to her ; in 

fact, poor woman, she felt the hand of death 
was upon her, and it was for her companion, 
a foreigner, not speaking a word of our lan- 
guage, that she was anxious. 

" The baroness niade her son set off in- 
stantly to Ystad. It was, certainly, no 
trifling undertaking. Do you know Ystad — 
that dreary place on the sands, and that 
horrible inn close to them ? Well, it was 
there he found them — the poor old lady 
dying, if not altogether dead ; and Evelyn 
— you have seen her — think of that angel- 
like figure, hanging over the bed of death ; 
her bright hair and pale face ! — Do you not 
fancy you see it all ? I do. Well, the poor 
lady tried to speak — she was not, therefore, 
quite dead — but she could not, so she put 
Evelyn's hand into the young baron's ; for 
she had, I believe, been the first teacher he 
had had ; and when she could only utter 
words he could not understand, she put the 
terrified girl's hand into his, and made a sign 
up to Heaven ; and Lady Evelyn says, that 
what she meant was, that they were to trust 
to Heaven, and that to God alone the secrets 
of human hearts are known. But the young 


baron, of course, thought that, — why, that, 
as your English marriage service says, you 
know, that he w^as to take Lady Evelyn 
' for better for worse ; ' and, to tell you the 
truth, I believe he would have done so on 
the spot, it was all so romantic. However, 
I do not know any more of the secrets 
that were told, or whether there were any ; 
I only know that the dead body of the poor 
lady was brought here, and interred in the 
cemetery ; for they would not leave it at 
Ystad; and when the baron brought his 
living charge to his mother's house, I do 
assure you, that if you wrote novel tales, 
you could have got a good groundwork for 
one then. If you had seen them come into 
the' lighted house that night, you would 
have thought it was a snow pillar that the 
baron lifted from his sledge — it stood so 
moveless, resting against the wall, enveloped 
in his fur mantle white with snow. But 
when he pulled it off, there was a perfect 
Undine, only so much taller ; and then when 
the warmth of the house acted on the frosted 
skin, such a radiant colour came on the 
fair face — oh ! you never saw anything half 
so beautiful ; not just now even ; she is not 


one-half so lovely noAv. We could do no- 
thing but gaze. For my part, I was fright- 
ened. I verily did believe the old times 
were coming back, and that the baron had 
brought home some of those lovely-looking 
things that used to do such strange work 
among mortals long ago. But he was not 
frightened ; he kept hovering about the sofa, 
just like a mother-bird over its ransomed 
young; he thought, poor fellow, that the 
sweet stranger was his treasure-trove ; but 
he was mistaken, I think. He would not 
let her speak one word, though she could 
talk French afterwards to the baroness ; but 
she was not well able to speak then ; indeed, 
I believe, her tongue was frost-bound. The 
next day I heard her say to her in French — 

" Can you then trust me, and allow me to 
be silent?" 

And the baroness answered, as she should 
have done, 

" Why not ? I should be sorry to let 
myself wish to know what you must not 
reveal. Do let this house be your home, 
and, if you can, look upon me as a mother, 
until you can feel freer than you now do." 

Fru P. was silent. 


" And is this all you know of your in- 
teresting friend?" I inquired, with most 
intense curiosity. 

" That is all : she has never told, and we, 
of course, have never asked more. But what 
is strangest is, that though she must be rich, 
as all you English are, she had no attendants, 
not a single servant, neither had the poor 
old dead lady: in fact, they must have 
reached Ystad like persons who fled from a 
bombarded town, or a house on fire, or a 
ship that had foundered at sea, or had es- 
caped from banditti — or — but there is our 
Dahlkulla — run, run ! we shall be late." 

It was nearly eleven o'clock when we got 
back to our dwelling, and trod over the mosaic 
pavement of the hall and stairs — natural mo- 
saic, for the dark stone of Sweden is inlaid 
with petrified things ; a naturalist might have 
sat on the blue stone stairs, and made out 
fishes and mosses, and various et cetera ; but 
I was tired -with a whole day's wandering 
and sight-seeing, and went to bed directly. 
Not to sleep, however, for truly the pro- 
phetic description of a better state is here 
already realized — " There is no night there." 
So, being wide awake, I lay and read, with- 


out any artificial light, till nearly mid- 

The watchman on the belfry blew out his 
horn, and then, I am told — for I did not 
see him, being in my bed — he turned to the 
four quarters of the compass, and in a voice 
which I have read of, he chants — 

" Twelve is the clock ; 
God keep the town 
From fire and brand, 
And hostile hand ; 
Twelve is the clock." 

Now whether the chant 

" Twelve is the clock" 

produced a somniferous effect on me or not, 
I cannot truly say, but my book declined, 
the shadows of the night deepened, or, 

" The fringed curtains of my eyes" 

closed over them, and made it night to me ; 
but my book at last dropped ; and in place 
of its lines, Evelyn stood before me, her 
bright hair gleaming in that mystic light, 
which is not the light of the sun, nor of 
the moon, but something between both — a 
light of poetry and of dreaminess, but not of 
sleep — a light of the spirit-land ; and in that 
VOL. I. c 


mystic light I saw the pure spiritual face and 
gleaming hair of that fair girl ; I saw her 
lustrous eyes ; she held her fore-finger on her 
lips, like the statue of the goddess of silence : 
I looked imploringly at her : in answer, she 
raised that finger upwards, as if indicating a 
time when the secrets of all hearts should be 
revealed, and every one have praise of God ; 
and seemed to float away into the misty 
light, as into a cloud-wreath, blending with 
it, and growing dim and dimmer to my sight ; 
I stretched my hand, grasped the air, and 
awoke with a start. 

My heart palpitated so violently, that I 
could not at first draw aside the mosquito 
curtain of my bed. When I looked round 
the room, all was as still and solitary as it 
had been when I sat there meditating about 
the king of Sweden's supper at Rosendal : I 
did truly see everything as I had left it, and 
I saw no Evelyn there. You may think me 
imaginative, but it is true; I got up and 
tried the door, I found it locked inside ; and 
I returned to my bed, saying, half aloud — 
" It was a dream ; she has not been here." 
Perhaps many other persons have done the 
same ; but who can solve the mystery of our 


being ? How often may we say — " It was a 
dream ; she has not been here," — but a day 
or two passes, and the post brings us a letter, 
and we say — surely that person — she, he — 
whoever it may be — must have known my 
position, must have understood my thoughts ; 
must have been present here. It is said that 
infidels are the most credulous and super- 
stitious of human creatures ; it may be so : 
yet I think few, who reflect on the mysteries 
of their own being, can be unbelievers in a 
future existence ; in a soul-state, distinct, 
even at present, from mere animal life. 

c 2 



Stockholm is a dull place in summer ; 
the country houses are then alive with in- 
dustry and hearty mirth, but the town houses 
are dead. In winter the capital is all life and 
gaiety : ice and snow are congenialities to 
Swedish temperaments ; complain of the cold 
as they nmy, their blood appears to warm as 
their atmosphere freezes, and their spirits 
rise as the thermometer falls. Then the 
houses in town are made comfortable, and 
well prepared for all "home-bred delights, and 
busy labours ;" then the frozen lakes are all 
alive with travellers and skaters ; then every- 
thing but commerce starts into new vigour ; 
people trudge along knee-deep in native snow, 
and sledges skim along, and little one-horse 
chairs with a one-passenger seat, and skates 
that carry people without a seat, and all sorts 


of curious flying conveyances — even to one 
impelled by sails along the frozen Wettern — 
may be seen in motion over Sweden, moving 
as if time, at least in Stockholm, flew faster 
than anywhere else in the world. 

In one respect, perhaps, it does so ; for, 
tired of staying up all night in summer, the 
sun only rises for three or four hours a day 
in winter. 

Then the good country houses, where, in 
the shorter season, the arts and labours of 
husbandry and housewifery are carried on 
much as they used to be in the good old 
times of our Saxon ancestors, are left to 
the subordinates, sometimes wholly shut up, 
the furniture removed with the proprietors 
to the metropolis. 

In winter, especially, Stockholm is " the 
Paris of the north," as its citizens love to 
style it. No one has then much to do but 
to spend the time as agreeably as it can be 
spent. Trade and commerce are ice-bound ; 
I believe the very jingle o^ the iron pigs (a 
species of animal, the nature of which, to my 
shame I confess it, I never understood until 
I went to Sweden) is then unheard, although 
in other seasons it is the chief sound that is 


heard on their quays, as they are loaded and 
unloaded to and from the vessels. 

Happily the Swedes are a thoroughly do- 
mesticated, and most industrious, as well as 
pleasure-loving people ; and how happy the 
combined dispositions ! Hail, then, even to 
the long winter-nights of the north. 

But the Swedes make the most of their 
summer too. Long life to them ! would an 
Irishman say ; they catch the sun as it flies 
from them, and make the most of the dark- 
ness that stays more patiently with them. 
Here, in summer, the Malar is alive with 
boats ; and in winter, it is alive "with skaters 
and sledge-drivers. Well, everything is 
beautiful in its season ; but I know, that in 
Stockholm, the good shopkeepers would 
rather go forth to the Djurgard, or take a 
sail down the island-gemmed lake, than stand 
behind their counters after four o'clock ; and 
it is a chance almost if you could get a cup 
of coffee, or a sheet of paper, or see anything 
but closed-up windows and doors after such 
an unseasonable hour, while the sun, which 
is the modern Balder of old Scandinavia, 
keeps his court day and night in their sky. 

There is an advantage in loneliness ; it is, 


that there can be no disagreement in taste. 
This advantage is felt more in travel than 
at other times. Think how truly horri- 
ble it is to stand before a work of art, of 
painting or sculpture, which penetrates your 
very soul, and just as you feel its beauty, 
not flashing upon you — perfection seldom 
does so — but stealing slowly into the inner 
depths of your mind — to hear some de- 
lighted exclamation, to have yourself hurried 
away to see some Avortliless object ! Never 
can I forget my sensations, when in rambling 
through the Vatican, I turned accidentally 
into a cell-like compartment of that grand 
museum and came suddenly before the Apollo 
Belvedere. It was as an old friend, known 
by correspondence, but never seen face to 
face before. With clasped hands and a cry 
of delight, I threw myself on a seat opposite 
to the unmistakable statue, rejoiced still 
more that no guide had formally introduced 
me. A little, wild-looking man came and 
looked at me, and conjectured there was 
" something to see ; " so as he thought, I 
suppose, that I was only resting, he planted 
himself between me and Apollo, intently 
to read the whole of the lengthy descrip- 


tion, &c. in Mr. Murray's Hand-Book, 
which, having finished, he raised his eyes 
with half-a-second's glance to the statue, 
and walked off with the red book " to see " 
something else. 

I have always found enjoyment in lone- 
liness ; and I liked to ramble alone in the 
charming environs of Stockholm, where I 
found my only impediment the lack of 

I went one day alone to Drottningholm, 
or Queen's Island, a most lovely retreat for 
royalty, and equally charming to a solitary 
stranger, who could ramble through the 
antique, old, Versailles-like gardens, with 
their dark and light statues, and the far 
more delightful park, where Nature is, 

" When unadorned, adorned the most," 

rocks, trees, beautiful and verdant earth, 
rising out of the shining Malar, and bearing 
up the stately palace, built by a queen two 
hundred years ago ; for such is Drottning- 
holm, the magnificent retreat of the widow 
of Charles X. 

Yet Haga is a more favourite resort of 
the people of Stockholm. There is a sha- 


dow of darkness around the memory of both 
places. At Drottningbolm, Giistavus IV. 
was at fii-st kept a " prisoner of state," be- 
fore his removal to Gripsholm, when his de- 
thronement by his subjects opened a path 
for the singular advancement of Napoleon's 
soldier of fortune. 

" Make way ! — make way, my friends, the 
king is ill," cried the stalwart Captain Greif, 
as he carried in his arms, through the midst 
of the guards, the sovereign he had seized 
as he was effecting his escape from his own 

Pleasant Haga, too, was built by Gus- 
tavus III., whom the cruel Ankerstrom 
shot at the masked ball with " a piece of 
lead and two rusty nails." How can men 
select such discordant scenes and means for 
effecting a purpose of cruelty and murder ? 

I did not wish one of the darkening 
shadows, which overhang most royal resi- 
dences, to fall upon me, as I wandered 
among the parks, the rocks, and waters of 
Drottningbolm and Haga; yet my visit to 
the latter recalls to my mind recollections 
of the scene I beheld at a tomb. 

I had come from the old church of Solna, 
c 3 


old, they say, as the fierce faith of Odin and 
Freya ; I entered the pretty cemetery near 
to it; and weary of walking, I sat to rest 
beneath a little shade, and looked round on 
the beds of the sleepers, which presented 
no revolting, gloomy spectacle, from which 
the shuddering mind turns aside, as it does 
from even the thought of the untended, 
forgotten graves of a land that is considered 
far more highly favoured. 

It is strange that Christianity should 
make death such a horrible thing : that it 
should have personified it by a hideous 
skeleton, armed with a scythe or a dart ; 
whereas heathen mythology represented it 
in the form of a lovely youth with folded 
wings ; the Angel of Death — not the ter- 
rific spectre. 

Here, in this strictly Lutheran land, where 
religious dissent is scarcely permitted, I 
looked on the flower-decked, garland-hung 
tombs, which we, in past years, regarded 
with doubt and jealousy, being by no means 
sure that popery did not lurk concealed be- 
neath the flowers ; or that the visit to the 
tomb, which in other lands is a sacred and 
salutary duty, was not merely " prayer for 


the dead." How much that was valuable, 
lovely, and of good report, have we lost in 
the same way ! 

I was involuntarily feeling that yearning 
desire of the human heart, which is seldom 
gratified, that thus my grave might be che- 
rished ; that thus some hands, in love and 
reverence, might plant the blossom over me, 
and shed on the turf the tear which blesses 
the living, if not the dead, when the quick 
roll of a Swedish carriaofe, the boundino^ of 
the long-tailed, short-bodied black horses, 
announced an arrival, and lo ! before me 
appeared the young baron, whom I had met 
at Rosendal, Evelyn, and a young girl, whom 
I guessed to be the Lilla whom Fru P. had 
assigned to him. 

He threw away the reins, and leaped out, 
but the English girl was before him ; he 
helped her companion from her seat, who had 
a fine, hardy-looking flowering shrub in her 
hand ; Evelyn secured a beautiful plant, and 
the young man drew out a spade : thus pre- 
pared, they proceeded towards the only bare, 
unornamented grave in the cemetery. 

Evelyn stood a few moments at its foot, her 
hands clasped, and head bowed down : thus 


did she pray, as we all feel disposed to pray 
when we stand at the grave of a friend ; not 
for the dead, but for the living. 

The baron fell to work with his spade, and 
the young girl, with one knee on the ground, 
held the plant in the burying-place he made 
for its roots, looking up to him, as if asking 
whether she performed her office aright, with 
a face so timid, so sweetly youthful and full 
of innocence, and yet so loving — pretty 
enough, but quite unlike Evelyn's, without 
one trace of that sudden sorrow, or secret 
care, which had evidently made a cruel gash 
in the young heart and hopes of the lovely 
English girl. 

But only once did the baron's eye dwell 
longer than was necessary on that upturned 
face, and he smiled affectionately upon it ; 
then it returned to the other — the other, 
which never once was directed towards him. 
Evelyn stood now at the head of the grave, 
her arms were on the stone, the hands hung 
over it, and her form was pressed against it. 
Her deep eyelids were lowered ; she was 
silent, and shed no tears ; but the whiteness 
of her cheeks was contrasted with the red- 


ness of the rounded lips and glistening of the 
golden hair. 

The gentle Swede moved away to a distant 
J3art of the ground with a basket of flowers 
in her hand, and sat down there, without 
seeing me, to weave a garland. I rose to 
come forward, thinking the work at the grave 
was over, and that I might make my presence 
known. But I somehow fancied Evelyn was 
uttering a prayer, and I stopped, unwilling, 
once more, to disturb them. It was not so ; 
for in answer to whatever ejaculation she 
had breathed, the young man replied : 

" Ah ! she is too happy, even in death, to 
be thus loved and lamented." 

Evelyn raised her hand reprovingly — " Do 
not speak thus lightly, friend ;" she said. 
" We know nothing of the state of the dead 
— how they may be affected by our grief, 
our hallowed remembrance, or careless in- 
difference. But for her loss I do not mourn ; 
— for what it occasions me, I may — I do." 

" You loved her then so fondly ? — that 
good old lady ; my mother's friend in their 
youth ; and, they tell me, my first instruc- 


" No," said Evelyn ; " deception I abhor ; 
I cannot say I loved her ; I had not been 
very well acquainted with her ; the tie that 
bound us was recent — and" — she paused, 
as if reflecting — " and," she added, slowly, 
" was horrible. I mourn her death, because 
with her lies buried my chief earthly hope of 
help, or sympathy." 

" Evelyn, dearest ! dearest ! " cried the 
young Swede, losing all command over him- 
self, and darting forward as if to catch the 
hand that hung so lifelessly over the head- 
stone of the grave, and only too eager to 
offer the sympathy she appeared to want. 
Evelyn started backward ; that upraised hand 
and the look he met checked the burst of 
feeling that rushed from the heart to the 
lips of the young baron. 

They stood there one minute, that young 
and beautiful pair, pale and erect, beside the 
tomb that separated them. 

Then Evelyn, with that self-control which 
women almost always possess when the pre- 
rogative of mind is exerted, spoke as calmly 
as if no heart palpitated to bursting within 
that delicate and trembling form — 

" Your kindness, your brotherly kindness, 


Oscar," — and she placed, perhaps, a cruel em- 
phasis on the word " brotherly " — " is more 
deeply felt than my words can ever express. 
Believe that it is so — for oh ! never, never 
can I otherwise repay you but by this faint 
expression of gratitude. I have never seen 
this grave before, and I think I may never 
see it again ; but you, in still happier days, 
may come hither ; and then, I trust and 
pray, that with a dearer, better, happier 
friend by your side, you may tell how your 
warm, kind heart opened to a stricken 
stranger. Here you may recall that dread- 
ful day at Ystad, that dreary inn close to the 
sands, that dying bed, the speechless lips 
that so vainly tried to utter what mine can 
never reveal — and what the dying heart 
broke in an effort to say. You will recall all 
this, and you will tell her, who " — and Eve- 
lyn looked full at the lover who gazed upon 
her, and she softly smiled, though her lip 
quivered — " you will tell her, who, I say, 
will then be at your side, that your stranger- 
friend "— 

Between the pair, in walked, with down- 
cast eyes and sweet humility, gentle Froken 
Lilla,and hung her flower-wreath at the tomb. 


" Sweet Lilla," said Evelyn, changing her 
speech, " you bring flowers, the emblems of 
fresh hopes ; hopes that should gladden the 
pathway of the living and brighten the grave 
of the dead." 

I, too, joined the group, and they proposed 
that I should make the fourth in their car- 
riage back to the city. 

" You will have shade, at least, from the 
fine trees of Carlborg Park," said the young 
baron, " if you will let me drive you by that 

Thus tempted, I exchanged my solitude 
for society. 

" There," he said, looking back, as he 
drove along, " is the military college, which 
was once the favourite palace of our ad- 
mired hero Charles XII., whom some of 
your authors, I think, style the mighty mad- 
man of the north. Is not the old palace of 
Charles XII. well employed as the Krigs 
Akademi ? There I have spent some pleasant 
days, dreaming perhaps of the never-to-be- 
realized warrior-fame he has bequeathed to 
us. But, in my own belief, our hero fell 
most ingloriously at last at Frederickshall : 
do you not think so? Par ecvemple, have 


you seen his hat, pierced with the very same 
small hole the pistol made in his head ? " 

" No," said I, wondering what made the 
young man talk so rapidly, and address me 
only ; but I suspected the abrupt finish to 
the scene at the grave had something to do 
with this little excitation. 

" Will you come and see it now V Evelyn 
suddenly asked ; " if so, perhaps the baron 
will attend us." 

He turned almost fully round, and looked 
earnestly into the eyes of the speaker. 

" Us !" he repeated. " You, Lady Evelyn ! 
will you truly come ? " 

" Yes," she replied, smiling ; " if my 
countrywoman wishes it, you may now take 
us to see all your national wonders." 

Away flew the coal-black steeds, as if 
they bounded with the human heart which 
throbbed with joy and hope at this small 
mite of encouragement. 

" You have seen our noble palace," he 
said, still addressing me — " what think you 
of it ? is it like any of Queen Victoria's ?" 

" It strikes me," I answered, " as not 
being at all a lady-like palace ; and much 
more adapted to the successors of Odin, than 


to the ' gentle lady throned by the west/ 
That great granite basement, those huge 
blocks of unhewn rock, the immense quad- 
rangle, and massive military-looking style of 
architecture, are more suited to your land 
of the north than to our little garden of 
England, and its gentle queen." 

" Ah ! you do not admire it ! — but no 
successor of Odin inhabits it now" — and the 
baron whipped on his horses still faster. 

" Pardon me, you mistake. I own that, 
like most things long heard of, the so-called 
new palace of Stockholm much disappointed 
me. I saw merely a vast mass of building, 
so formed as very conveniently to enable 
the king to hold a military exercise in the 
central square ; and you know there was 
such the other day, when the troops figured 
before his majesty in their newly adopted 
Prussian uniform — a bad exchange, in my 
opinion, for it is not becoming, and if Sweden 
goes to war with Prussia, how is one to 
be known from the other ?'^ 

" Oh !" said the baron. 

" Well, that is no matter — au reste — I 
now have examined this wonderful palace 
under different aspects, and I yield to the 


opinions of others ; it is simple in its great- 
ness, and chaste in its massive grandeur ; 
I really admire those wings which flank the 
pleasant, though very public garden sloping 
to the sea, where, I believe, your good and 
much-loved king and queen, like our own 
happy sovereign and most estimable prince, 
daily take their early walks before the eyes 
of all who choose to behold them." 

Just as I had made this complimentary 
speech, he drove up to the " new palace" of 
Stockholm, built about a century ago, and 
we were conducted by the royal guardsman 
into the museum within its walls. 

As we passed through the picture-gallery, 
where those who have visited a great many 
others will not be tempted to linger — he led 
me up to one, saying, with an ironical smile 
in his well-opened blue eye — 

" Admire the sleepy mildness of that 
soft face !" 

It was Dahl's expressive portrait of 
Charles XII. The volcano soul breathed 
in the countenance of the youth ; and, young 
as it was, you felt it must explode, yea, 
become extinct ere long. Then he took us 
to see the cradle in which he had slept, and 


the toys with which he had played at two 
distinct eras of his life — when he frolicked 
in infancy, and when he defied the Turks at 
Bendar. The toys of the child, and the 
sword of the man, are there. 

" Deo soli Gloria " 

is the inscription on a blade, which, me- 
thinks, it would require the arm of a son of 
Odin to wield; 

Then we saw the library, which with 
kingly liberality is literally given pro bono 

Queen Christina conveyed her library to 
Rome, and made it a present, with herself, 
to the Pope, when she forsook the religion 
of her father, the Protestant champion of 
Europe. The admirable collection of mo- 
dern times consists of more than seventy 
thousand volumes; I saw a great many of 
our English authors on the shelves, but most 
of them, I thought, in a French dress. 

" What I should most like to see," said 
the soft voice of Evelyn, and our guide 
leaped from my side at its sound, " is the 
Golden Law." 

" Oh ! the Codex Aureus." In a few 


minutes it was produced; a beautiful and 
interesting relic of the piety of our ovni 
land in the sixth, or at latest, the seventh 
century. The Gospels, written in Latin in 
characters of gold, upon immense leaves of 
vellum, of white and purple alternately. 
The characters are gothic, and, being traced 
in gold, have given the title of Codex Aureus 
to this beautiful work, which was presented 
by a pious Saxon couple to the cathedral of 
Canterbury, having been by them purchased 
from " a heathen war-troop," probably the 
Danes. It found its way into Italy, brought 
there, perhaps, by refugee monks, and was 
there purchased for the royal library of 

Evelyn begged for, and obtained, a copy 
of the donor's inscription, which is written 
in Anglo-Saxon. 

" In the name of our Lord Jesus Christ. 
I, Alfred, aldorman, and Werburg, my wife, 
got us this book from a heathen war-troop, 
with our treasure, which was pure gold. And 
this we two did for our souls' behoof, and 
for the love of God, and for that we would 
not this holy book should longer abide in 
heathenesse. And now we give it to Christ's 


church, God to praise, and glory and wor- 
ship, in thankful remembrance of his passion, 
and for the use of the holy brotherhood, 
who in Christ's church do daily speak God's 
praise ; and that they may, every month, read' 
for Alfred and for Werburg, and for Alhdryd, 
their daughter, their souls to eternal health, 
so long as they have declared before God 
that baptism shall continue in this place. 
Even so also, I, Alfred, Dux, and Werburg, 
pray and beseech in the name of Almighty 
God and his saints, that no man shall be so 
daring as to sell or part with this holy book 
from Christ's church, so long as baptism 
there may stand. 

" Alfred, Werburg, Alhdryd." 

Here would seem, from the charge re- 
specting baptism, to be internal evidence 
here, that this interesting copy of the Gos- 
pels was presented to the abbey of Canter- 
bury at a time when the heathenesse of our 
Danish oppressors appeared likely to uproot 
the institutions of Christianity in England. 

The most enormous book I ever saw was 
in this library; a manuscript bible, written 
on ass's skin ; a monkish labour, taken from 


a convent at Prague, by Gustavus Adolphus. 
Here is also one of the first printed bibles, 
with marginal notes, by Martin Luther. 
But while Evelyn was examining the Codex 
Aureus, we went to peep at the sculpture. 

The baron showed us what is considered 
its gem, the sleeping Endymion, bought in 
Italy, and taken from the ruins of Tivoli ; 
and after this graceful relic of the southern 
mythology, we were abruptly presented to 
the terrible representatives of the northern — 
the colossal statues of Odin, Thor, and 
Freya, by the native artist Fogelberg. We 
shrunk from the gloomy might of the Scan- 
dinavian deity, and turned to the sweet 
little Cupid and Psyche, by another of 
Sweden's modern artists, Sergell. 

The name of Bystrom is, perhaps, more 
generally known to passing visitors as a 
sculptor, from his name being given to the 
villa in the Djurgard, a most elaborate edi- 
fice, where his works are now preserved. 
But though it is pleasant enough, especially 
with pleasant companions, to see all these 
things, it is tiresome to write them down, 
and perhaps it would be as tiresome to read 
them — doing either can be avoided. 


I must not omit, liowever, to state, that 
Baron Oscar did keep his promise of show- 
ing me the hat of King Charles XII. ; a 
curious-looking thing, very like the soft, 
broad-leaved, round-crowned hats now in- 
troduced into our imitative country, only 
black, not grey. The orifice was not larger 
than to admit his thumb ; and he explained 
to me, with much clearness, how very stupid 
every one but ourselves was, not to per- 
ceive that by the manner in which that 
hole was made, it was evident the ball could 
not have come from the besieged town, but 
was aimed by a closer and private assassin. 
So, also, some affirm, fell the great Gustavus 
Adolphus, even in the arms of victory — 
" Moriens triumphavit.'' So says that great 
man's tomb ; great, because he could resist 
himself as well as vanquish others. 

We had gone to the church of Riddar- 
holmen, or the Isle of Knights, and, standing 
by the tomb of Gustavus Adolphus, I uttered 
something like the words I have written. A 
hand was laid upon my shoulder, a soft voice 
whispered in my ear — 

" May we not too be strong in self- 
resistance ; great even in weakness ; tri- 
umphant in death?" 


The voice was Evelyn's; her soft bright 
eyes, like moonshine on water, looked into 
mine. I answered them without words ; 
for I felU though I did not quite under- 
stand, her meaning; at least I did not 
know how it might be applied to her own 
circumstances ; and the organ of cautious- 
ness, phrenologists say, is largely developed 
on my head. 

Baron Oscar, however, came up, and 
prevented any moral-philosophy discussion 
by asking me if I had seen the visor of 
King Karl, which represents outwardly the 
visage it was intended to conceal, mous- 
taches and all. And when we had duly ad- 
mired the face or the visor of Charles VIII., 
he showed us the shields of the noble order 
of Knights of the Seraphim, to which only 
the blood-royal and a few of the haute- 
noblesse are admitted ; pointing out among 
them that of Monsieur Napoleon Buona- 
parte, who admitted himself to the honours 
of the order of the Seraphim. 

This Riddarholms Kyrkan is indeed an 
interesting, but most forlorn-looking place. 
It was to Sweden what our Temple Church 
once was to England ; but how are the 

VOL. I. D 


mighty fallen in both places ? Riddarholmen 
is one of the islands on which Stockholm is 
built, and connected with the rest by a 
bridge. The church of the knights, who 
once possessed it, is not now used for divine 
service, except on an annual festival ; it is 
made the mausoleum of Sweden's kings ; 
but a range of stuffed equestrian figures in 
ancient armour, one suit of which is of 
beautiful Florentine workmanship, meet you 
at your entrance, and just serve to tell you 
that real living men in armour once dwelt 
in the Isle of Knights. 

Here rests the dust of the fiery Charles 
XII., after thirty-six years of commotion in 
this mortal life ; for it is reasonable to sup- 
pose, that, like the infant Hercules, that 
warrior began in the cradle the noise he 
afterwards made in the world. Here, too, is 
that of a longer-lived, but not less remark- 
able man, whose life has done more good 
to Sweden, — that of Charles John XIV., 
who followed Napoleon's recruiting-party 
from Pau, to ascend from the ranks of the 
French army to the throne of Sweden and 
Norway, and establish there a Bernadotte 
dynasty, which there is at present no pro- 


bability will be displaced, even by the revo- 
lutionary spirit that is everywhere else pro- 
gressing. But there is something miserably 
neglected-looking about this interesting old 
church ; you could hardly imagine it was the 
modern burying-place of royalty; though it 
contains the noblest dust of the land, in- 
cluding that of the Wasa family — not Gus- 
tavus himself, his tomb is at Upsala; — yet 
all appears to be mouldering in decay, and 
rusting in damp. 

We left the church of Riddarholm to look 
at the houses of parliament, or diet, of Swe- 
den, which includes four classes of repre- 
sentatives — the nobles, clergy, burgesses, or 
trading and professional class, and the pea- 
sants, or agricultural class. One class is thus 
left out, as being, I suppose, nugatory in the 
interests of a working country — that which 
is nearly parallel to our ci-devant House of 
Commons — the independent and private 
gentlemen of Sweden, who, being of no pro- 
fession, trade, or calling, have no vote in the 

Like our peers, the head of each noble 
family possesses a seat in the Riddarhus. 
The three other classes are elected for the 
D 2 


diets, which are held at intervals of five 
years, and sit for about four or five months. 
As in England, the assent of the crown 
is requisite to sanction their decisions ; the 
king can also summon a diet when the affairs 
of state demand it. In the case of an act 
which affects the constitution, the decision 
of the four houses must be unanimous ; an 
equal division of votes neutralizes a mea- 
sure, unless that measure be one concerning 
money ; in that case, as no financial affair 
may be thus neutralized, the four houses go 
into committee, and decide the matter by 
the preponderance of votes given among 
seventy-two members, equally selected from 
each class. 

This mode of legislature appears fair, sim- 
ple, and likely to be agreeable to all parties ; 
nevertheless, here, as elsewhere, the peasant- 
house complains bitterly of the undue power 
given to the three higher chambers. 

Baron Oscar wanted me to tell him a 
great deal more of our parliament than he 
told me of his. But I assured him that our 
political machine was too vast, too wonderful, 
for such a head as mine to comprehend its 
workings : but that I did not think it went 


by steam ; the Parliament was at work nearly 
all the year round ; the papers were full of 
long speeches, and of thousands of proposed 
measures ; that what was talked about even 
I could sometimes guess, by looking over 
these papers, but what was done remained 
generally quite unknown to me. That an 
election made a great noise in the country, 
and cost a vast deal of money ; whether pro- 
fitably disbursed or not, I was too ignorant 
to be able to tell. So I left Baron Oscar 
just as wise as he was before ; having told him 
as much as, I dare say, most people — women 
at least — know of their oM^n constitution. 

The Riddarhus, or house of the knights 
or nobles, is an interesting old place, the 
assembly-room hung with three thousand 
shields of Sweden's chivalry. Here it was 
that the noble speech of Gustavus Adolphus, 
recorded in Schiller's Thirty Years' War, 
was made by him previous to his departure 
for Germany. That strange little recreant 
to her father s faith and fame, Christina, was 
carried to the Riddarhus, when the delibe- 
rating nobles w^ere on the point of for- 
saking their allegiance to the baby-sovereign, 
to whom the death of the hero of Lutzen 


left the crown ; and this old hall rang with 
a burst of loyal acclamation, when, recog- 
nising in the face of the then innocent child 
the features of the great Gustavus, they sa- 
luted Christina queen. 

Since then, the salique law has been 
established in Sweden. 

No one who is not of the religion of the 
state — the Lutheran — is eligible to any 
ofSce under the crown, and therefore is ex- 
cluded from the senate. Dissent is barely 
tolerated in Sweden : but though tolerated 
when quiescent, no interference with the es- 
tablished religion of the people is permitted. 

The clergy hold a high and respectable 
position ; in dress they do not differ much 
from the secular clergy of Rome. Genius 
and literature are not unfrequently rewarded 
by a living, or, as in the case of the poet 
Tegner, with a bishopric. The extraordinary 
disjDarities of clerical income and labour, 
which the changes of time and population 
have produced in England, are happily un- 
known to Sweden. The only archbishopric, 
that of Upsala, is worth eight hundred 
pounds a year ; the lowest bishopric about 
two hundred and fifty pounds ; and the 


parishes are certainly proportioned, in ex- 
tent, amount of population, and of income, 
in an apparently more reasonable manner, 
allowing to each labourer enough to eat, and 
not too much to do. 

The nomination of the clergy rests with 
the crown; but a sort of election usually 
takes place when a living becomes vacant, 
and the state generally ratifies the choice 
made by the parishioners. Patronage is con- 
sequently sought for by clerical candidates. 
The bishops are selected by the inferior 
clergy, but the decision is with the crown. 
Three persons chosen by them are presented 
as the candidates ; the king elects one of 
these. No one can deny that there is great 
room for improvement in spiritual things in 
Sweden : but in its out\vard form there is 
much that is worthy of imitation in the reli- 
gion of this land. It is wonderful, in the 
far north, to find the poorest peasant able to 
read, and almost always to write. The benefit 
of its parochial system may be seen in the 
fact, that poor parents are obliged to be, in 
most instances, the teachers of their own 
children. In poor and thinly-populated 
districts, schools are " few and far between.'^ 


In England, Ireland, or Wales, children 
would in such cases grow up without learn- 
ing anything more than other animals ; but, 
in the Lutheran north, no one can be con- 
firmed or admitted to the sacrament who 
cannot read ; and no one can hold certain 
offices, or perform certain acts, who has not 
been admitted to these rites ; so that, in 
order to be married, it is necessary to have 
acquired the preliminary accomplishment of 
the art of reading, because neither man nor 
girl can be married who has not been con- 
firmed, and is not able to receive the sacra- 
ment. Thus an institution of the church 
is actually the means of perpetuating a race 
of parents able to instruct their own chil- 

Education may still be on a low scale ; 
but it is enough to enable almost every Swe- 
dish peasant to read his bible and hymn- 
book, and seldom do you see them going to 
their church without these accompaniments. 

The excellent king, however, who is now 
on the throne, is making, we hear, strenuous 
efforts to raise the tone of education. In- 
deed, under the Bernadotte dynasty, there 
is every reason to expect that Sweden will 


rise high in the rank of nations. In the ups 
and downs of this world, the generations 
that come after us may see the remote north 
brought into a more prominent position than 
that which lands of milder temperature will 
then hold. 

We are told that the Swedes are not a 
moral people. To that expression there is 
generally a definite meaning given in our 
language ; and in that sense I have had no 
opportunity of proving or disproving the 
charge. But on the subject of morals, 
taking the word in its full sense, a diversity 
of opinion exists : a simple, kind-hearted, 
amusement-loving Swede, for instance, might 
think the morals of London much more ap- 
palling than those of his own land. 

The professors and literary people of Swe- 
den are a most liberal and unforbidding 
tribe. Some of its learned bishops were 
ready to receive us en route^ without even an 

In Stockholm they are most amiable to 
strangers ; and here every facility is afforded 
for seeing sights. These sights, however, 
are really few, and are by no means likely 
to be their attraction to that delightful capi- 
D 3 


tal. The Zoological Museum is good and 
interesting as a national one. The Cabinet 
of Northern Antiquities is far more so ; but 
when we reflect on the " antiquities of Scan- 
dinavia," we feel amazed at the scanty 
amount of care and zeal which has been 
expended in their collection and arrange- 

I ought to make this complaint, in order 
to excuse what follows ; for I left the an- 
tiquities of Scandinavia to enjoy the modern 
delights of its modern capital. 

Evelyn, the baron, and young Lilla, after 
having stood with their heads very close 
together for some moments, gathered round 
me with a petition, that I would give up all 
such blue-stocking researches, and join them 
that evening in a party to his island villa. 

The idea was too attractive to admit of a 
repulse ; I welcomed it, and agreed to be 
on the shore of Malaren at six o'clock with 
Fru P. 

Shortly after that hour, we shot away 
over the sparkling lake ; and certainly, if you 
could only fancy that clear-rolling stream 
changed into the fetid standing waters of 
the Grand Canal, these islands and green 


banks converted into old, sedgy, empty 
palaces, and our pretty dancing boat ex- 
changed for the funeral gondola, one might 
enjoy oneself as well here, where all speaks 
of a happy present, as there, where all tells 
of a glorious, yet melancholy, past. 

Up to the landing-place of the little islet, 
whirled, with a skilful and graceful sweep, 
our water-equipage, — as necessary almost to 
a Stockholmer as a horse or a car is to a 
native of Dublin, — and out sprang our young 
host ; his extended hand, open countenance, 
and large joyous blue eyes, adding to the 
heartiness of his Swedish welcome. 

His pretty villa was the lord of the lonely 
place ; this summer-house, for such it was, 
was a wooden one, delicately painted, and 
almost hidden in flowering shrubs and trees. 
An ^Eolian harp was in the open window : 
the breeze just swept its chords as we 

" What a fairy dwelling!" cried Evelyn, 
in lowly-uttered accents of delight — " How 
charming a retreat ! " 

" You like it," the owner half whispered — 
but what a long commentary might these 
three words give rise to — " You like it ! " 


and, added to the countenance of the speaker^ 
perhaps it was no wonder that it stole a 
gentle sigh from young Lilla's heart, as she 
bent her eyes down on the flowers that made 
a bower of the enchanting little room we 

Our baron heard it, I think ; for, glancing 
at her, as if with some slight pang of self- 
reproach, he added, quickly — " Lilla is the 
fairy : she adorned it for me." 

*' Now truly do I think," said hearty Fru 
P., " that our sweet Lilla would adorn any 
place, palace or cottage." 

" How I do like your Swedish heartiness 
of manner," said Evelyn ; " I wanted to say 
much the same;" and the brightness of her 
smile, as she looked at the timid girl, made 
her feel more gratified by it than by the 
compliment of Fru P. 

" Jak, jak," said Lilla, nodding her pretty 
nod in that way which implies, " Thank 
you," without any language. 

And then she began to act the Eve of the 
little Paradise, and, 

" On hospitable thoughts intent," 

prepared for us an entertainment, quite in 
character with the locality. 


When tlie sun had gone down — at least 
gone so low down as not to be trouble- 
some — we went out and sat by the water's 
side, among some rocks and trees, and green 
grass. The light became more and more 
softened and lovely, the most profound still- 
ness reigned around. 

" I am surprised/' said Evelyn, " that the 
Swedes are not a more imaginative people." 

" Pardon me, I think we are an ima- 
ginative people ; w^e are very superstitious ; 
is not that tendency connected with ima- 
gination?" said the baron. 

" I do not know : perhaps so ; but I meant 
to say, I wonder you have not more ima- 
ginative writers, you have had so many 
great men in science, and in history, from 
Tycho Brahe and Linnaeus, up to Berzelius." 

" Pray do not omit our lady-authors ; we 
have Miss Bremer, and — " 

"Oh!" I cried, interrupting him, and I 
was sorry for it afterwards, " you do not 
style Miss Bremer an imaginative writer; 
she is admirable as a describer of everyday 
home-scenes, which might, every one, be 
compared to a certain picture I once saw, 
which struck me as being so true a por- 


trait, that I asked the poor woman, who 
showed it, whose it was. She answered, 
' I do not think it was done for any one in 
particular, it was taken from nature.' So 
Miss Bremer's pictures, whether meant for 
any one in particular, or not, are taken from 
nature ; they give you a portrait, not an ima- 
ginative composition." 

" Perhaps your long winters may coun- 
teract the influence of your summers," said 
Evelyn, smiling. " I never could make out 
a consistent theory of the influence of climate 
on imagination; here, for instance, I should 
fancy, were the clime and scenery to produce 
it — those soft mystic nights, which are nei- 
ther day nor night — ah ! Lilla, if, like you, I 
had been a Swede, I should have been a poet 
and a romancer. Can you tell us a legend 
here, baron ? It would be delightful." 

" Let us sing our favourite song first," 
was his answer ; " then, if you command me 
even to make a legend, I must do so." 

" Oh, no ; no made legends ; we are tired 
to death of them in the books of our English 
travellers," I said. " Please, baron, tell us 
a true story." 

He bowed : they all then sang their Swe- 


dish song ; Evelyn had her part : her voice 
was melody itself, low and thrilling. When 
it ceased, there was a fine figure reclining on 
the grass, at her feet, and an earnest, thought- 
ful face looking anxiously towards hers. 
Evelyn turned from it, with a look of pain 
and a sigh. 

" Come, now for the story," she said, with 
a little degree of awkwardness unusual to 

" Shall it be a love-tale ? " 

" If the others are pleased with it, yes," 
Evelyn answered, but she blushed deeply ; 
" for my part, the subject is quite indifferent." 

" I will tell you, then, a tale too true, of 
our beautiful Dahlkulla," he said, quickly, 
and began. 

" Ebba lived on the banks of the Dahl 
river, just where it opens into a lake. She 
was betrothed to Erik, a young Dalecar- 
lian ; but bad times came on, and Erik was 
obliged to go to work in the copper-mines 
of Falun. 

*' It almost broke young Ebba's heart, to 
think she might one day have to leave the 
fair banks of the Dahl to live in the desert 
region and copper smoke of Falun ; but to 


think of her Erik working down there, in 
these drear vaults, hid from the sunlight 
and pleasantness of earth, was far worse. 

" Ebba resolved she would earn enough 
money to enable Erik to come and live with 
her in the pleasant cottage on the Dahl, 
where her father and mother had lived and 
worked from their marriage to their death, 
and where her sole ambition was to be able 
to live and work from her marriage to her 
death ; and she thought if she could but 
earn money enough to enable him to culti- 
vate the bit of land her parents had culti- 
vated, and to keep on the cottage which 
had been their home, her toil would be as 
the labour of Jacob when he served for his 

" Ebba resolved not to marry Erik and go 
to live in the copper smoke of Falun ; for 
then, she said, must he still work down in 
those tremendous vaults, which it disturbed 
her imagination to think even of entering. 
She said to him, ' Wait : we are young 
and strong ; better times will come, and we 
shall yet have some happy years to live : 
better a few that are bright and blessed, 
than many that are drear and dark.' 


" Yet while she spoke she felt she loved 
Erik more than the cottage on the Dahl, 
and more than the glad sunshine of Heaven. 
But hers was a strong woman's heart, and its 
love Avas strong and unselfish. So she told 
her young miner she would go and work at 
Stockholm, and sore against his will he saw 
her depart. But as she went, she said to 

" ' Be true to me, Erik, for, come what 
may, I will be true to thee ; and one day 
thou wilt say it was well for thee I was not 
now made thy wedded wife.' 

" So Ebba came to Stockholm, and got a 
boat from the owners. But the maiden was 
very fair to look upon, not eighteen years 
old, tall and strong, with a free, firm step 
and open brow. Her eyes were blue as the 
summer sky, and her hair dusky as its twi- 
light hues, the rose of health was on her 
face, and love and gladness in the sound of 
her joyous laugh, and even in the gleam of 
her shiny teeth. She was beautiful with 
love and goodness ; and she was happy at 
her work, for she worked for love ; and love 
gave strength to her active arms, and hope 
winged the boat she led over Malaren Zee. 


" Now Ebba was too fair to pass and repass 
as the common Dahlkuller may do. But she 
had thrown around her a panoply of might, 
and the woman who worked for love was 
safe from the assaults of vice ; her story was 
made known, and even the lovers who sought 
her hand in marriage despaired of shaking 
her purpose. 

" ' I will work for Erik until I have got 
money enough to enable us to work to- 
gether,' she said ; and thus the boat of the 
betrothed became a favourite one on the 
Malar Zee ; it was thronged from morning 
to night, and though half its earnings went 
to the owners, many a dollar rigs-geld, and 
dollar banco, too, were slipped into her hand 
for Erik the miner, together with the copper 
skillings that paid for the passage. 

" At the close of the summer Ebba was 
already rich. Ah ! poor girl, had she been 
content, and then returned to Dalecarlia, all 
might have gone well with her and Erik ! 

" But success inspired new hopes ; she 
thought after another summer she should be 
able to set up Erik in the little farm. If 
she went back for the winter, she feared he 
would not suffer her to leave Dalecarlia 


again ; and then he must still work in the 
mines, and she must live at Falun. 

" She stayed for the winter, and she got 
a creditable and good employment. Now 
to stay for the winter in Stockholm in- 
spires mistrust and anxiety in the peasant- 
homes of Dalecarlia. Yet Ebba the next 
summer resumed her boat-paddles, strong 
and good, active and happy as she had been 
before ; and with even greater zeal did she 
work for Erik, because hope told her that 
the next winter she should work with him in 
the pleasant cottage on the Dahl, where her 
parents had lived, and that he would then 
work for his bride, and love her and cherish 
her all the days of his life. 

" But jealous eyes had been on fair Ebba, 
and evil tongues had not been idle when 
the frost on the Malar had stopped the boat- 
paddles. She had gained more in her first 
summer than many others had gained in two 
or three, or even four ; and when the women 
went back to Dalecarlia, they had spread 
this report. It reached to Erik in the mines, 
and made him wonder ; and when the winter 
came, and his betrothed did not return, it 
made him fear, it made him mistrust. He 


had not her strong human faith : the doubt 
he felt had never entered her heart, and 
she took, therefore, no steps to prevent 

" The summer had come ; the ice and snow 
melted off, and seemed to leave the earth 
ready furnished beneath them : where white 
had been, there green had come, and the 
shadowy sky was bright with sunshine : the 
sledges and skates were laid up, and the 
boats were again dancing over the Malar 
Zee ; and Ebba, as she went down one morn- 
ing to the water, met Erik watching for her 
on its shore. 

" His face was dark ; there was no glad 
greeting in his eyes. She would have flown 
to him and cried, ' I have worked for thee ; 
I have been true to thee.' But these dark 
eyes terrified her, and she gazed into them as 
if it were her own conscience that scowled 
upon her. 

" Then did Erik's words frighten her more; 
for they told hers were verified; it was truly 
■well for him she had not been made his 
wedded wife. 

" He accused her of betraying him, of being 
faithless to his love. 


" Ebba, for her sole reply, drew forth her 
bag of Swedish paper-money, and said, 

" ' All this have I gained for thee/ 

" But he struck the money from her hand, 
and cried, 

" ' Accursed be thy gains ! Thinkest thou 
I would touch the wages of shame ? ' 

" Then Ebba stood moveless, and spoke 
not at all. 

" Erik thought she was verily guilty. He 
went away in his wrath ; his heart was torn 
with passion and grief, and the false tongue 
M'hich had brought him Ebba's evil report 
soothed him with more base slanders of her 
he loved. 

" So he went off again, and saw her no 
more ; and Ebba sat in her boat, but she 
did not now knit stockings for Erik while 
she waited for customers ; she did not now 
work for Love, neither did Hope wing her 
boat over the shining Malar. Her head was 
bowed down like the bruised bulrush ; her 
songs ceased, for her heart was heavy ; her 
eyes shone no more like the summer's sky ; 
and, leaning over the side of her boat, she 
dropped into the deep bosom of the lake the 
bag of money Erik had struck from her 


hand. It was ill-done, they said to Ebba,. 
for it might have been given to the poor. 
But, with a pale cheek and lustreless eye, 
Ebba replied — ' Should I offer to the poor 
of our good Lord the wages of shame ? ' for 
the words of Erik never left her heart or 
lips; she verily seemed to think that as 
Erik believed her to be, so she was. 

" Now, after a time, Erik heard in the 
mines what Ebba had done, and how she had 
buried in the lake her hard-earned money ; 
and his heart smote him, for surely, he said, 
it was an upright and virtuous, a proud and 
unjustly wounded spirit that performed that 
action. So he sent to Ebba to ask her, if 
she knew herself to be innocent, to forgive 
him, and come to him, and poor though she 
was now, to be his wife. 

" But Ebba said, ' I have no assurance of 
innocence or of guilt to make: rich, happy,and 
beloved, I would have gone to him, and have 
been his wife ; poor, suspected, and disgraced, 
he shall see me no more. Tell Erik that 
Ebba forgave him ; but wine once spilled 
cannot be gathered up, and confidence once 
lost is not easily restored. She will stay 
where the wages of her shame are buried. 


until she goes to the land where shame is no 
more : for her dear Lord and Master knew 
shame unjustly, and hid not his face from it ; 
He will not scorn one who has known it 

" Her lover got the answer ; but he still 
thought she would repent ; yet when his 
proud love stayed all the next winter in 
Stockholm, he said, ' I can live without her 
no longer ; I will go to Stockholm and bring 
her here ; I will labour for her, and she shall 
work for me no longer.' 

" So he set off on his journey. 

" That long winter Ebba had ceased to 
work ; they said the strong maiden was 
drooping ; and when the summer came they 
thought she would no more go forth to the 

" But the snow-cleared lake was gay, and 
the people of Stockholm were glad : Ebba 
sat one morning in her boat ; her head lay 
on her arm over its side ; her comrade came 
down, and thought she was asleep ; but when 
passengers were coming she shook her, and 
she did not awake ; then they lifted up the 
head, and saw she would wake no more : the 
slandered maiden was dead ; she had melted 


away like the snow-maiden in the first rays 
of the sun, and had gone to the land where 
shame is no more. 

" Her doubtful lover came, and embraced 
her corpse." 

" Beautiful Ebba!" said Evelyn, in a trem- 
bling voice, as our young host concluded his 
story with a bow ; " ah ! yes, confidence once 
lost is not easily restored ! The woman who 
must be doubted had better die ! " 

" Erik was a wretch !" said Fru P., Lilla, 
and the baron, at the same moment. 

" He was natural," Evelyn and I uttered 
quite as simultaneously. 

" Well, I do truly fear there are many 
Eriks in the world," said Fru P., shaking 
her wise head ; " so I think we had better 
all go home." 




Society appears to me to be on very 
easy and accessible terms in the Swedish 
capital ; yet I am told by some of the citi- 
zens that the lines of social demarcation are 
very distinctively drawn, and that, like some 
of the old-fashioned family-caste districts of 
Wales, society here is parcelled out into dis- 
tinctive circles, consisting each of its own 

A foreigner, however, may be happily at 
liberty to dine at the table of the people 
of commerce in the afternoon, and end the 
evening in the saloons of the aristocracy, 
especially if he be one of the swarm to 
whom the warning of Robert Burns would 

" A cliiel's amang ye takin notes, 
An faith he'll prent it." 
VOL. I. E 


Presuming on this self-assumed privilege, I 
kept two diverse engagements on the same 
day. I dined at " my banker's" villa, in the 
Djurgard — the use of the possessive pro- 
noun, when prefixed to the word " banker," 
or " publisher," gives an air of importance to 
the substantive it stands for, if it does not 
confer additional honour on that it precedes 
— and after that dinner I was to spend the 

evening at , — [I must leave a blank 

here, although I dislike such miserable sub- 
terfuges] — where I was to meet Evelyn, and, 
it may be supposed, some one else. 

The dinner-party at the banker's assem- 
bled without either formality or ostentation. 
The time was four o'clock, the latest that is 
usual : the guests entered the pleasant room 
without having their names announced half 
a dozen times; some very pretty girls, 
in white dresses and bonnets, advanced to j| 
the middle of the apartment, and then in- 
clined so very lowly and reverentially to the 
company assembled, that their tall stature 
was most wonderfully, yet gracefully, dimin- 
ished. That sweet reverential modesty, which 
still appears to remain among the young 
people of Sweden, is an attribute we would 


pray might continue to be sheltered in that 
remote part of our world. 

Everything here was sans facon, even to 
the taking off of the bonnets and shawls. 
As a prelude to our adjournment to the 
dining-room, a tray was handed round con- 
taining bread, cheese, butter, and something 
— I really suspect it was slips of dried her- 
ring, but I am not certain, for my kind 
host told me I was at liberty to decline 
such a preparative for my dinner, although 
it was as customary for Swedes to begin 
theirs with bread and cheese, &c., and for 
the men, a glass of spirits, as it was a 
century ago for us to finish ours with a 
similar bonne bouclie. 

The most fastidious gourmand, however, 
might have reconciled himself to a dinner 
in the far north, if it were like that which 
followed. The cuisine was quite French, 
but served a V Anglais. 

I believe that the citizens of Stockholm 
are remarkable for the profuseness and hos- 
pitality of these entertainments ; the wines, 
of various and excellent qualities, were 
equally abundant ; but all dismissed with 
the repast. The ladies did not walk out of 
E 2 


the room, after the still cherished custom of 
England, when they had had their share of 
the good things, and leave the men to more 
enlightened conversation than they and the 
children could share in. 

The ladies sauntered out, together with 
the host and a few of the other gentlemen ; 
the rest, I believe, went back to the town, 
or — horrid to relate — to smoke ; while we 
went to a pretty temple in the grounds, 
commanding a charming view over the lake ; 
tea was brought to us there, and in due 
time I departed, to keep my evening en- 

In evening assemblies, I am told, the old 
Swedish fashion of the three rooms still 
exists, one for matrons, a second for single 
ladies, a third for men ; but to make a fair 
division, or classification, there ought to be 
two more rooms at least; for now a bride 
of seventeen may be consigned to the old 
matrons, while a spinster of seventy remains 
among the girls. I do not know exactly 
how this is all managed, but I do know, 
that a wedding consigns the respective par- 
ties to the realms of matrimony in actual 
location ; and before that event takes place, 
a good deal of rigorous propriety and con- 


ventional regulation maintain a proper dis- 
tance between the opposing ranks. 

But the realm of matrimony is no Utopia 
in Sweden : it is as well defined as any of our 
penal settlements are to our own convicts. 

Listen to this description of a Swedish 
wedding, by a Swedish writer, though from 
which of Frederika Bremer's works I stole 
it, I cannot now truly declare. 

" The gilded crown waved and trembled 
amid the attacks and defence of the con- 
tending parties; for it was precisely the 
trying moment of the Svvedish peasant wed- 
ding, when the crown, as it is said, is danced 
off the head of the bride. The married 
women were endeavouring to vanquish and 
take her captive, while the girls were doing 
their utmost to defend and hold her back. 
In the other half of the great room, all 
went on more noisily and more violently 
still; for there the married men strove to 
dance the bridegroom from the unmarried 
ones ; and they pushed, and tore, and pulled 
unmercifully, amid shouts of laughter, while 
the polska went on in its whirling measure." 

But I was not meditating on matrimony, 
or the civil combats it occasions; I was 
gazing out of a window, and thinking only 


of the charming bits of scenery with which 
the neighbourhood of Stockholm abounds, 
when some exclamations of Swedish-speak- 
ing Swedes made me look round to see the 
fair Engleshfrbken come in. I knew Evelyn 
by her hair ; she now appeared so dazzlingly 
bright and beautiful, I doubt if I should 
have recognised at once the pale, sad girl I 
had seen bending over the tomb on the day 
of Haga, or the more mysteriously impres- 
sive one I had seen in vision by night upon 
my bed. 

Evelyn wore a thin robe of ethereal-looking 
white, in which she seemed to float like 
those pictures of angels that are just lightly 
shadowed by a cloud-wreath. Her only 
ornaments were an antique cameo of the 
same pure hue, and a white rose with two 
green leaves ; her beautiful hair was quite 
unadorned, and the sea-shell pink shone 
even brightly on her cheek. Except in the 
red rounded lips, the childlike, innocent 
mouth, there was no likeness to Guide's 

Evelyn and Lilla were attended by a 
matron, who took the part of the baroness, 
that lady never going into society. The 


young baron's face was looking out from the 
door of the third apartment ; they were im- 
mediately surrounded, and while Evelyn 
was conversing either in English or French 
to some few acquaintances who were in- 
quiring for Friherrinnan , or in English, 

for the baroness, the gentle Swede, seeing 
I was expecting her, drew near to me, and 
bending with that lowly reverence, which 
even still, in Sweden, youth sometimes pays 
to age, she took the side of my dress in the 
tips of her fingers, and touched it to her 

" My countrywoman appears to be a fa- 
vourite here," I remarked to Lilla. 

" Ah ! she may indeed easily become an 
angel hereafter," she answered, " for she is 
almost one now, in this present world. If 
one should love the good angels, one should 
love her." 

Sweet Lilla ! I thought, as I listened to 
this innocently warm eulogium, for even 
then I fancied Evelyn was her rival. 

" Of whom does our best Lilla speak?" 
said the young baron, as he advanced, his 
youthful head pre-eminent over all the men 
who came trooping in to secure partners 


for the dance. He leaned on the back of 
her chair, and bent those smiling blue eyes 
on the young girl. A deep blush suffused 
her face, neck, and brow. 

" Do you not truly know that there is 
only one I would speak so of?" she 
answered, in her softest Swedish voice. 

" Yes ; but we must not let her be quite 
an angel yet : let her be only what she is, 
the loveliest and best of human creatures." 

Did a slight expression of pain cross that 
loving face ? If it did, it was but slight, and 
perhaps a better, or wiser, feeling chased it 
away, as Lilla quietly said with a smile, 
" Even so, Oscar, for our sake, we would 
pray her to remain : but she comes to us at 

Oscar turned at the last words with a 
quick eager glance, and then hastened for- 
ward to meet Evelyn as she came to join 
our group. 

We could guess the request he had gone 
to make from her words as she reached us. 

" I have told you already that I never 

" Yes ; but one believes sometimes that 
importunity may at last prevail." 


" Not with me," she replied ; " it cannot." 

Some questions and answers were then 
exchanged ; I know not what they were ; 
but the final one, by Evelyn, was evidently 
displeasing to the young officer ; — with all his 
good-humour, I should not like to make 
him angry. The colour mounted to his fair 
brow, and his blue eyes grew almost dark. 
Evelyn looked with appealing earnestness 
into them, and the transitory anger changv d 
to sorrow; the baron turned, and taking 
Lilla's hand, said, 

" Our sweetest Lilla, then, must obey Lady 
Evelyn also ; the English ladies command 
us to let them see our national dance, 

Her hand lay quietly in his, and with a 
blush, a smile, and a pretty inclination in 
sign of obedience, she went with him to 
the dance. 

I felt displeased with Evelyn ; and the 
petty indignation I felt broke out at once 
into speech. 

" How can you be so insensible to the 
devotion of that fine young Swede ? " 

" I am not insensible to it," she replied, 
with a grave and placid candour, which at 
E 3 


once calmed my indignation, and removed 
the apprehension I was beginning to feel 
of finding her a heartless coquette ; " I 
am far from being insensible to it ; but 
I would give much to put an end to it. 
I am glad you spoke ; for now I can ex- 
press a hope which has to-day given me 
new spirits. Fru P. told me you wished to 
leave Stockholm as soon as possible, but had 
been disappointed in your companions ; I, 
too, wish to do so, but dare not travel alone; 
she thought you would allow me to travel 
with you ; at least to Germany, where I 
should once more feel myself really on the 
continent of Europe ; though I think I may 
have to go to Rome." 

" I shall be rejoiced to have your com- 
pany," was my answer ; " but will not the 
baroness object to my carrying away her 
guest ? " 

" No ; my arrival was unexpected, I might 
say, uninvited; I, who never knew a mo- 
ther's love, or a sister's, or a brother's, 
have found all among these dear people. 
I love them all, as if I belonged to them: 
I could have wished to have stayed with 
them, but I ought not, must not ; yet they 


are perhaps the only friends I shall ever 
desire to see again." 

She spoke in a sorrowful accent, and the 
last words were uttered as if unconsciously. 
I suppose I looked surprised, for Evelyn 
coloured as she rather hastily added, 

" I mean, that I should like to meet them 
again, when, what is, I believe, the single 
earthly desire of the chastened mother shall 
be gratified, and her son united to her 
adopted Lilla." 

"To, Lilla! is that the wish of the 
baroness ? " 

" Yes ; it is caused by circumstances 
connected with the affecting story of that 
young girl's parents and herself" 

" Is that story a secret ? " 

The word " secret " produced an electric 
sort of effect on Evelyn, and transformed 
her into the girl I had met in the Djurgard. 

" No," she said, with a sigh, " I hate that 
word ; but there is no secret in this little 
history ; it is generally known. The baron- 
ess, you know, has been many years a widow : 
in her youth she was exceedingly hand- 
some, very like what her son now is : at 
present her complexion is lost, her once 


bright eyes are dull, her fair hair turned 
almost to grey. At seventeen she was be- 
trothed to a young man in the same rank of 
life as herself, which was not then a high 
one. They were both poor, but the love of 
each was intense. Their marriage was de- 
layed by poverty ; and during her first visit 
to the capital the country beauty met the 
baron, Oscar's father, who was then high in 
favour with the late king, having been his 
companion in arms when he was made 
crown prince. This man was also engaged 
to a young woman, of whom, they say, Lilla 
is the antitype : but he was captivated by 
the superior beauty and brilliancy of the 
present baroness, and she was dazzled by the 
prospect of such elevation. The lonely, 
poor young man, and the gentle, loving girl, 
were both forsaken ; the baron and the be- 
trothed broke their vows and married. Both 
were disappointed : could it be otherwise, 
when" — Evelyn paused, as if a sudden re- 
collection crossed her, and broke the thread 
of her discourse — " when human hearts were 
trampled on in their road to the altar, 
sacred words forgotten?" 

" Happiness," I observed, " can never be 


the fruit of selfishness, though deep sorrow 
is too often the result of self-renunciation." 

" Oh ! true ! true !" cried Evelyn, and a 
flash of pure enthusiasm shed a holy light 
on her sweet face. " True ! but welcome 
such sorrow, though its reward be not here ! 

" The forsaken pair," she continued, " were 
also unhappy, for no soul-sustaining princi- 
ple of such a nature comforted them ; they 
had been ill-treated, and were mortified. 
Some mistaken ideas led to the result we 
so often see take place when wounded hearts, 
however disharmonized, attempt to rush into 
unison because they have been repelled from 
their natural course. 

" Each wished to conceal from the world, 
perhaps even from each other, the pain that 
was felt, and in the hope of doing so, they 
married, very soon after their unfaithful 

"Lilla's mother made a good, peaceful wife ; 
but her own heart was broken, and she 
knew her husband's would love no more. 

" Perhaps an equal trial would, in our dear 
Lilla's case, lead to the same consequences, 
for soon after her birth, her motlier fell into 
a decline. She was watched and nursed with 


unremitting tenderness by her husband, to 
the moment of her death : up to that mo- 
ment she had never grieved him, he had 
never cost her a sigh. 

" The baron, too, died while on a mission to 
Russia. The baroness then saw all impedi- 
ment removed to a union with the man who 
alone had ever possessed her affections. She 
was now rich ; she could elevate him. She 
waited to hear from him, to be told, what 
she already felt, that they both were free 
again. She did not hear; she supposed 
timidity restrained him, and impelled by 
feelings she believed to be generous, she 
wrote to him. 

" His answer stung her very soul, and still, 
as an act of penance, she reads it over. 

" It told her that, after having preferredthe 
wealth, fame, and honours of the world to 
him, and after having found Ichabod written 
on them all, she had returned to offer to him 
the dregs of an exhausted heart. It told her 
her forsaken lover would not take second- 
hand the heart which had been stolen from 
him when new : it told her that her selfish 
worldliness had broken the gentle heart of 
the mother of his child, the woman who 


loved him as a sister, but whose heart had 
been irrevocably given to the man she had 
so wrongfully married. 

" And after this, the worldly-wise woman, 
who now stood alone, the survivor of wrecked 
happiness, hoped to reach the harbour she 
had missed before. ' But, go,' he con- 
cluded ; ' go, and offer on the tinselled 
shrine of the world all that may yet remain 
of the heart that once professed itself my 
own ; withhold not what may remain, for 
verily, for what hath been given, thou hast 
had thine reward.' 

" The world-loving woman cowered into 
herself, as she read the epistle ; the mask 
fell from her heart, she saw it as it was: 
vanity had been its gangrene. She laid 
that letter next it ; literally so, I have seen 
it in the case she keeps it in, and believe it 
will be buried there. Her time ever since 
has been passed in seclusion, in acts of be- 
nevolence, and in devotion. 

" Some years passed, and her only child 
was at the military college, when she got a 
letter from her early and only love ; it con- 
tained but a few lines, yet they showed her 
he had known her manner of life, known 


that she had lived as 'a widow indeed,' 
doubly a widow, and had approved of it. 
They told her also that he was ill, and con- 
jured her, by the remembrance of her first 
love, to come to him ; to forgive, if she had 
aught against him, and to accept his last 
bequest. She flew to him. He was in a 
poor abode ; lassitude and melancholy had 
impeded his labours, and brought him again 
to poverty, and he was dying. He told her 
he had vowed never willingly to see her 
before then. He showed her his child, his 
Lilla ; he desired to bequeath to her care 
his only earthly treasure. The contrite 
woman accepted it. Her love was recog- 
nised in death ; the snares of the world were 
broken, the husband of her heart died in 
her arms : purified and chastened, she re- 
turned with his child to her house, to de- 
vote the remnant of her days to a double 
object ; to effect the happiness of that child 
on the earth, the happiness of all around 
her, and of her own soul, in a holier 

" She brought Lilla to her house. She has 
been as dear to her as her own son. The 
baroness hoped the marriage of the children 


miofht make some atonement for that of the 

I drew my handkerchief before my eyes as 
I said, 

" Do you share the hope ? " 

" Yes ; for Lilla has ever loved him, and 
he, too, I think, has loved her. I do not 
know ; a man's love is more easily distracted 
than a woman's. But still " — Evelyn hesi- 
tated — " still the romance, nay, even the 
mystery of our first meeting, might readily 
fire a youthful brain, and interest a warm 
and generous heart. Such emotions Oscar 
has mistaken, but he will return to his polar 

*' But " — then I hesitated longer than she 
had done, and at last blurted out — " but 
your own inclinations, must they be sacri- 
ficed ? and perhaps to an ideal " — 

" My own inclinations ! " Evelyn repeated 
in a voice that was really solemn ; and lifting 
up her large clear eyes, " Oh ! would Hea- 
ven in its mercy grant me no severer sacri- 
fice than that ! the marriage of Oscar and 
Lilla ! " Her folded hands fell together on 
her bosom, and a look of serene happiness 
beamed on her countenance. 


" No," she said, a moment afterwards, 
smiling, and shaking her fair head at me, 
" no, believe me, I am not of those who 
think a woman acts a noble, or even a 
right part, in giving up to another a man 
whom she loves, and who also loves her. If 
he loves her not, it is another matter ; then 
she ought to resign her claim, even if he 
had given her one in haste or error ; but if 
he does, and that she truly loves him more 
than herself, and desires his happiness more 
than her own, then all the nonsense of pre- 
ferring the happiness of a third person, 
which is sometimes found in books, but 
never, I believe, in real life, is, as the judges 
of Galileo said of the earth's revolution, 
false in philosophy and erroneous in faith." 

" I understand you, now ; " I said ; " and 
if, from no sentimental notion of promoting 
the happiness of others, which would be 
sure to end in making them unhappy as 
well as yourself, you wish to leave Stock- 
holm, I quite agree with you that your 
absence will be more likely than your pre- 
sence to promote the marriage of Oscar and 

" Decidedly," said Evelyn, in a very ab- 


sent manner. " When do you intend to 
leave this place?" 

" I cannot say any moment, but any day 
I can be ready ; I wish, however, to go by 
the Gottenburg Canal, and I believe the boat 
goes the day after to-morrow, at a very early 

*' I shall be ready," cried Evelyn. 

" The whole journey of four days and a 
half," I considerately added, " will only cost, 
I think, about two pounds, meals and all 
included. But are you prepared for what 
you may meet ? " 

" How ? " she said, with a start. 

" Why, the whole entomological tribe of 
Sweden bite ; and to be bitten must be your 
fate, while you can, I fear, get nothing to bite." 

" How ridiculous ! You mean that I 
cannot eat knacken, and other northern 

" Nor drink finkel, or corn-spirit : as to 
knacken, it is only fit for flag-stones, and 
finkel — ach ! I assure you, however, se- 
riously, that the whole power of my hands 
could not subdivide that Swedish bread, ex- 
pressively called knacken, which means — does 
it not — the knack ? — so I never yet tried 


it with my teeth. But as to the sleeping 
accommodation, it is the neatest, cleanest, 
most compact and delightful in the whole 
range of invention: little dormitories, with 
one or two couches, mosquito blinds to 
the window, and blue curtains to the doors, 
if you do not choose to close them. You 
take a little room for one or two, d volonte. 
The salle d manger is at the far end, the 
aft, I think they call it, of the vessel, or 
the fore end, down where the sailors are ; 
and there, a discontented traveller said, 
you have three times a day to go down a 
ladder, ' feet foremost,' for your meals, and 
get nothing you can eat after all. But you 
know, when travellers are rude and trouble- 
some, they are naturally discontented, and 
will say anything: for my part, I would 
rather go down a ladder feet foremost; would 
not you?" 

" Decidedly. So I think you will not 
find me a discontented traveller, if you will 
only let me travel with you," Evelyn smil- 
ingly answered. 

But almost while she was saying the 
words, the young baron came back with his 
now happy-looking partner: we had seen 


enough of their mad-cap dance to be able to 
speak of it, but he did not give us time. 
Merely placing Lilla in a seat, he made his 
bow, drew back, and after the law of the 
land, bowed again, and so again, until bows 
and the baron disappeared, I know not 
whither ; but I heard that he was not seen at 
his mother's all the next day, and conse- 
quently did not hear of Evelyn's intended 




Fear of being too late often makes one be 
too early : such was the case with me when, 
at a very early hour on the morning but one 
after the evening aforesaid, I arrived at the 
house of Friherrinnan ■ nearly an hour 

before the last moment. 

The baroness had not risen, and Lilla was 
engaged in weeping with her over the sudden 
departure of their friend. 

The houses in Stockholm are usually so 
contrived that privacy and publicity are 
united in most of the apartments ; com- 
municating with each other in interminable 
succession, you never feel quite sure you are 
alone when alone. 

I was shown into a large, cold, handsome 
saloon, and spying a cosy-looking little one at 
the farther end, I hastened into it, knowing 


I had a full hour to wait, and anxious to 
seize on all the repose I could find before I 
entered the steamboat, of which a dreary 
guide-book had given me a rather dreary 
idea. An early starting-hour involves a 
wakeful or restless night ; and the conse- 
quent irritability of the nerves made me 
long to ensconce myself in the great luxu- 
rious sofa which half-filled the little apart- 

There, then, much to my shame and con- 
fusion, as it afterwards proved, I placed 
myself in such a position that both eyes and 
ears must command all that passed in the 
antechamber, while arranged on the soft 
sofa, and involved in its huge pillows, I was 
unlikely to be seen by any one who did not 
actually enter the place of my retreat ; and 
certain of not being sought for till the mo- 
ment of departure, I directly fell into a 
very dozy state. 

The sound of hasty, noisy footsteps startled 
me ; but before I could get free from my nest, 
the young baron, with a highly-excited air, 
came into the grand saloon before me, just as 
Evelyn, by an every-day accident, popped 
into it by the opposite door ; for there were 
three at least to tliat room. 


I tried to get up, but, in fact, when I tell 
what followed, it will be seen that I could 

He sprang with no little clang across the 
floor, and took her prisoner. 

*' Evelyn ! is it true ? Tell me it is not 
true !" 

" What ?" she said, quite trembling. 

" That you were going to leave me." 

" Yes ; I am going. Let me go," she 
cried, writhing out of his grasp, " and hear 
what I have to say. It was painful to de- 
part without a farewell, but I thought it 
wiser to do so." 

" Yes ; but such wisdom is useless now ; 
you shall not go ! — not without me." 
• "Baron!" cried Evelyn, looking up at 
him, as if indig-nant at the speech ; but the 
countenance she saw changed her emotions. 

" Oscar, listen to what I have to say." 

" Say nothing," he replied in a low hoarse 
voice ; " say nothing, unless you say my 
love is not hopeless." 

" It must be so, if set on me," she replied, 
with gentle firmness ; " but I hope you will 
yet find it was not so. Circumstances, friend, 
have given me a strange claim on your noble 


heart, your generous sympathies, your manly 
protection ; but some day you will find this 
was not love." 

Words such as burst from the full pas- 
sionate heart of youth cut short her calm 
but faltering accents. 

I heard Evelyn's attempted words lost in 
the torrent of her lover's eloquence, and I 
thought she was yielding to it. I wished 
myself away, but escape was impossible. 

" Ah ! truly, so to speak," cried Oscar to 
her in reply, " shows that you at least can 
know no love !" 

" Blessed will be the woman to whom 
your love is intrusted, Oscar," she replied 
equivocally; " but I am not, never could be, 
that woman." 

Her words were putting out fire with oil ; 
Evelyn saw this, and took another tone. 
With a pure pale face, and hand laid softly 
on his shoulder, she looked up to him, as he 
bent, stilled like a child, by the soft pressure 
of that hand, and thus she said : — 

" Dear, good friend, my protector and 
consoler in fearful trial, your memory will 
be dear to me ; dear as that of a brother's. 
But, Oscar, the beautiful prayer of my church 

VOL. I. F 


tells me there is one Being to whom all 
hearts are open, all desires known, and from 
whom no secrets are hid; that knowledge 
gives me comfort and peace ; for whatever 
I may hide from others, I would not, if I 
could, hide aught that has befallen me from 
the eyes that are too pure to look upon evil. 
Believe this when you think of me ; but 
believe also that I do not now speak from 
maidenly coquettishness or prudish affecta- 
tion, when I truly declare to you that I 
cannot, will not, marry." 

" Are you not mysterious, Evelyn?" 

" Ah, yes ! and you, open as the day ; 
happy and joyous : oh ! trust me, the sun- 
light of your life will not pass away with the 
friend over whose future days you already 
know some fatal circumstances have cast a 

" Evelyn, be my wife," cried Oscar, " and 
preserve any secret you wish to keep. My 
trust, my love, will never be diminished by 
your necessary reserve. But ah ! sweet friend, 
why, for your own sake, will you not repose 
confidence in me ? Evelyn, I feel, I could 
help, protect, perhaps avenge you." 

" God forbid ! " she exclaimed, almost in 
a voice of horror, " that any one should do 


the last. Bat see now, Oscar," she added, 
with a faint smile, " to what marriage might 
bring me : could I resist such solicitations ? 
You know not how frail poor nature is, how 
great the desire to trust ; how the solitary 
heart aches for human sympathy, and longs 
to repose its burden on an arm of flesh : 
that must not be ; there is One alone from 
whom no secrets can be hid. No, my friend, 
my resolution is, indeed, unalterable ; but 
add your prayers to mine, that God may 
give me grace and strength to keep it, and 
to trust in him only. I wish you to be 
happy ; I could never make you so, but I 
can show you the way. Next to the service 
and love of God, dear Oscar, the greatest 
happiness is to be loved with all the fer- 
vour of a fond and single affection. This 
you would vainly seek from me ; but it yet 
may be yours. Lilla can present the bless- 
ing which it is not mine to bestow. She 
loves you with an innocent, but a deep and 
fervid love ; let her be your consolation 
when I am gone ; and, believe me, that one 
of the few things which can ever cause me 
to feel real joy again, will be to hear from 
yourself that the sweet girl is your bride." 
F 2 

100 EVELYN. 

It was curious to see the effect of these 
words. The storm of, perhaps, hasty passion 
was cahning ; an opposite current of milder 
and re-awakened feeling set against it. They 
sat side by side on the sofa, and he, bending 
down his head, murmured the words, 

" And Lilla loves me !" 

" Only from my own perception do I 
know it," said Evelyn, with that tender jea- 
lousy for the honour of her sex which is so 
lovely in woman, " not by word or token 
from her. Such love as hers is too low, too 
soft, too beautiful for human ear ; it is the 
down on the butterfly's wing; the finger 
that touches it bears trace of its existence, 
but the common eye perceives it not." 

The young baron laid his arms on the 
table, and his head upon them. A groan 
burst from his heart : the love he had lost 
was at that moment dearer to him than that 
he had found. 

Evelyn rose gently up from her seat; a 
tear, as she bent over it, fell on that young 
manly head ; she lifted her arm, as if, in 
woman's unadulterated affection, she would 
have twined it round the neck of one she 
had involuntarily made unhappy; but she 

EVELYN. 101 

held the hand suspended over the bright 
locks and hidden face, looked upwards, and 
breathed a blessing or a prayer ; then glided 
from the room, unheard and unseen. 

I sprang with wonderful activity from 
my sofa, and got out, I know not how. We 
met in the gallery, and were gone from the 
door, I do believe, before poor Oscar had lifted 
up his head, and discovered that his English 

love was lost to him for ever. 


And now, steaming slowly, we pass on 
through a beautiful archipelago : rocky and 
woody islets are here as dark gems in a dia- 
mond setting, the waters are sparkling so 
brightly in the fresh morning sun. 

The beating hearts in our circumscribed 
space throb, perhaps, less wildly than one 
we have left behind. 

But what know we of human hearts? 
What know I of that which almost touches 
my elbow as I write ? Evelyn sits beside 
me ; her soft eyes are full of tears which 
never overflow; they beam like the moon 
through the light haze of a summer night : 
she is sad, yet happy ; " sorrowful, yet always 
rejoicing." She surely feels she has done right. 

102 EVELYN. 

And on, and on, we move slowly through 
a fair and intricate course : soon the city 
disappears, and silence, the deepest and most 
solemn, reigns around us, and dwells in the 
countless islets that throng our course; a 
silence meet for the poet and day-dreamer ; a 
silence lovely in the warm summer-time, but 
which in an ice-wrapped scenery must have 
an awful effect. 

The approach to this Venice of the north 
by the Baltic shows the city to much greater 
advantage than this way of exit of ours by 
Lake Malar; both want the charming 
uniqueness of the Venice of the south, which, 
unlike any city of earth, seems to spring 

" fresh from ocean, 
Rising with her tiara of round towers," 

on a level with the sea, and without apparently 
a foot of earth to rest on. Stockholm, built 
on its seven islands, is, on the contrary, 
clearly seen, even at a distance, to be partly 
elevated on a high rocky site, and partly de- 
scending to the water's edge. It is sur- 
rounded, too, by trees, rocks, hills, and turf- 
banks covered with flowers ; instead of ris- 
ing like fair Venice from a bed of waters, 

EVELYN. 103 

its site undistinguished from them by a tree, 
or rock, or glimpse of solid land. But if 
it were not for that beautiful singularity, and 
for the romance-history which invests the 
widow of the Adriatic with a character all 
her own, in beauty or in grandeur, the 
water-approach to the capital of the north 
might well compete the palm with her. 

It appears much more delightful to leave 
Stockholm by the Malar than by the Baltic. 
In the first place, there is not the dreary 
prospect of sailing for three or four days 
over the deep green sea; but the more 
pleasing one of traversing the great old 
mystic lakes of Sweden, ever since the 
marvel-loving time of my own sweet child- 
hood associated with all the ideas I ever 
formed of the land of Odin : and then the 
whole water-journey to Gottenburg is the 
most curious, and to me one of the most 
interesting that can be imagined. 

I certainly never felt on Como, or Mag- 
giore, the sense of interest and enjoyment 
which Lake Malar has given me. It is 
seventy-five English miles in length ; at 
times its banks contract so as to bring close 
to you their luxuriant verdure, their flowers, 

104 EVELYN. 

pretty villas, and handsome chateaux ; then 
it expands again, and presents you with 
large and small islands, to the amount, in 
its whole course, of one thousand four hun- 
dred ; some of these dotted with pretty 
houses, others filled only with fir-trees, others 
a bare rock : and these last were the favoured 
haunts of superstition, and scarcely one of 
them but would furnish matter for a legend, 
if we had time, en passant, to make one up. 

As we moved away from the city, its 
steeples and towers, and afterwards the green 
banks, with their pleasant villas, were more 
distinctly visible to us when we looked 
down on the sunny water. We seemed to 
sail over a splendid picture, dividing the 
crystal that covered it: the last, and the 
first, of sights, as of everything else, are the 
most impressive ; but the last more than the 
first ; perhaps such is the reason that Stock- 
holm, as seen in the waters of Lake Malar, 
is most distinctly mirrored still in my 

Now we go round a fine promontory, and 
adieu, a really affectionate adieu, to dear 
Malaren. We now get into the first of the 
numerous and extraordinary canals which 

EVELYN. 105 

striniT together the various natural waters 
which are employed in making our romantic 
water-route to Gottenburg. 

The high, picturesque banks and narrow 
channel of this connecting bit of canal, which 
is said to be on the site of that cut by the 
famed St. OlafF, Viking of Norway before he 
was sainted, to carry his ships away from the 
blockade of the fleets of Sweden and Den- 
mark, gave me the notion of a pretty gallery, 
leading into a handsome saloon. A single 
door, or lock, admitted us into the latter, a 
vik, or deep small bay of the Baltic ; but the 
sea is here like a lake, in scenery and peace- 
fulness. The town of Sodertelje, and its 
picturesque swing-bridge, are left behind ; 
the grey crags of East Gotaland are at each 
side, and numerous islands, bare, or fir- 
crowned, and half-hidden rocks, begin to 
render our passage a slow and cautious one ; 
but the proper channel is generally marked 
out for anxious mariners, by painting the 
rocks white, or, in shallow water, erecting 
sign-poles. One little island left its memory 
with me ; it bore, on a rocky soil, one tall, 
sad-looking young fir-tree. I pointed it out 
to Evelyn. 

F 3 

106 EVELYN. 

" It is," she said, " a melancholy type of 
some human lives or hearts." 

At Mem we enter the Gota Canal ; it is a 
pretty spot, the scenery to us was novel. 
In the perfectly circular basin before the 
village, an admixture of salt and fresh water 
occurs. The deep solitude which had marked 
a great part of our course had been to me 
delightful ; but, as Evelyn remarked, I was 
equally delighted here with the change. 
Handsome houses of the higher orders, and 
comfortable stone ones for the more lowly, 
neat farms, grazing herds, troops of horses, 
kept somewhat as they are in Bretagne, en 
masse, and immense droves of coal-black pigs 
(not iron ones), are seen among the pastures ; 
and young ladies are angling in the clear basin 
of Mem with much grace and dexterity. 

" An angling lady ! " cried Evelyn, who, 
contrary to my prohibition, had peeped over 
my shoulder to look at w^hat I wrote, — " how 
can you record such an offence against our 
nature ? Who could pity her if she were 
caught by some treacherous bait herself?" 

" They say cold-blooded animals do not 
feel," I replied, without stopping my pencil. 

" In that case our pity for her might be 

EVELYN. 107 

thrown away, you mean, I fear, to infer. 
But I will only believe that assertion when 
a fish tells me so." 

Our kind, English-speaking captain of the 
John Telford — for the pretty little steam- 
boat was named after our engineer, who 
assisted in constructing the Gottenburg 
Canal — came to tell us that the town of 
Soderkoping (N.B. The k in Swedish is pro- 
nounced like cli soft in this and similar 
names) was one of the first seaports of Swe- 
den in the age of Gustavus Wasa ; and that 
the great chalk cliff before that now quiet 
place was, at a still earlier date, the abode of 
the renowned pirate. Giant Ramundar, and 
is still named Ramundarshall. 

I do not know whether the giant-pirate 
patronised the water cure, or was partial to 
the purity of that pure beverage, but the 
hall of Ramundar is famous for it still, and 
we eagerly intercepted the bare-legged boy 
who brought down a supply for the use of 
the passengers of the John Telford. 

Soderkoping is a watering-place in ano- 
ther sense, but I do not think my descrip- 
tion of it would send as many English there 
as that of the Old Man did to the Brunnen 

108 EVELYN. 

of Nassau. A single "bubble" it would be 
useless for me to cast up. 

We left the canal to enter the small lake 
of Asplongen, — our valuable captain wrote 
all names in my pocket-book ; — then we got 
into the canal again to lead us into lovely 
Lake Rosen. 

Now at this point we should call to mind 
that the waters of the great Lake Wettern, 
and small contiguous lakes, or natural 
streams, at the Stockholm side, flow, in that 
direction, to the Baltic Sea ; whereas those 
of the mighty Wenern flow by the Gota 
river to the Kattegat at Gottenburg, so 
that the course of this truly wonderful canal 
is divisible into two sections : of which, one, 
that which we are upon, ascends from the 
Baltic at Stockholm to Lake Wettern ; the 
other, which we enter into after leaving the 
Wettern, will descend from the Wenern to 
the Kattegat. 

Now, then, we are going up granite hills 
in a steamboat ; presently we shall go down 
them. I only note what is most remark- 
able ; for as we were four days and a half in 
our packet, it may be reasonable to imagine 

EVELYN. 109 

I was asleep some part of the route. And, 
indeed, I am now just reminded, by a cruel 
mosquito-bite, that I should be where other 
people are, — asleep in their nice little dor- 

110 EVELYN. 


The Gottenburg Canal. 

It was after crossing Rosen-Zee that the 
feats which our little packet performed ap- 
peared to me singularly interesting, and, 
united with the scenery through which it led 
us, rendered this journey unlike any I had 
ever made. 

From the Rosen the canal is carried up 
the face of a hill, and by a series of seven 
locks, admits us into the Wettern. 

Two hours are required for the passage of 
these locks. Almost all our passengers, 
Evelyn among them, spent the time in visit- 
ing Vretakloster, an old church, where are 
the tombs of ancient Swedish kings and 
other great personages, including some of 
the gallant Scots once so famous in Sweden, 
the Douglas, who fought with Gustavus 


I should like to have seen Vretakloster, 
but an injured foot made me avoid the risk 
of being left there, as there was no Giant 
llamundar to carry me back. 

T spent the time in my own fashion, and 
I do not regret having stayed behind. 

It was a sweet evening : diverging from 
the road, I went into a field of tall grass, 
whose rising ground gave me the view I 
wanted. I sat under a large hawthorn, 
pulled wild-flowers, looked backwards and 
forwards and straight before me, and I 
wondered much. Nature was very beautiful, 
and art was admirable. 

When my head turned one Avay, I saw 
the poor, patient, afflicted-looking steam- 
boat standing at the bottom of a steep 
rocky hill, rising seventy feet above it, and 
awaiting there the moment of its toilsome 
tug. The locks are divided into sections, 
but, at that distance, appeared to me to 
form one continuous dark staircase, ascend- 
ing from the pretty boudoir-like lake that 
lay at its foot. Then, when I turned to the 
other side, there lay the fair, smiling, gentle 
Rosen, gemmed with its islets, and bright 
with the rays of the declining sun. 

112 EVELYN. 

The tall tower of Linkoping rose among 
the more distant trees on the opposite land ; 
and there was the old castle of the bishop, 
who so steadily resisted the Reformation of 
Luther, preferring a prison for life to an 
improvement in faith. 

Not a creature in the world appeared to 
be stirring but myself, not even the mos- 
quitoes, — their hour was not come ; but the 
banks of the lake, wooded to the water's 
edge, the noble oaks, the bright green of the 
verdure, so far removed all aspect and 
thought of gloom, that I could hardly fancy 
this pretty scene was the vestibule of the 
haunted and dreaded Lake Wettern. Boren, 
a less interesting and smaller lake, is con- 
nected with both by a piece of canal. 

We assembled again ; the boat mounted 
the hill ; we passed Motalla, the great iron- 
manufactory of this iron-producing land, and 
we passed, too, the grave of Admiral Von 
Platen, who helped to make the canal. A 
short time ago the captains used to fire a 
salute in so doing, but now they content 
themselves by saying to all strangers, " There 
is the grave of Admiral Von Platen ; " and 
this answers as well as the discharge of guns. 

EVELYN. 113 

The great architect of Italy desired to be 
buried where he could see his beautiful 
spire ; and the engineer of Sweden has just 
as good a view of his canal. 

Night came on, — the still and glorious night 
of the north. We got out on the vast and 
beautiful and mystic Lake Wettern. The 
moon rose clear and calm, mingling its light 
with the twilight of the sky. Not a breath 
stirred the soft, strange atmosj^here. The 
upper deck was empty ; I had crept from 
my cabin when others crept to theirs. I 
sat there in blissful solitude, and felt the in- 
fluence of the solemn and majestic scene ; 
Wettern by moonlight ! Deep thanks be 
thine, Parent of all good, who, with whatever 
hath been taken, hast left me the capacity 
to love and enjoy thy works ! 

Wettern Lake is about ten miles less in 
length than its sister Wenern, but much 
less in breadth. It is ninety English miles 
long, and only fifteen broad : Wenern, the 
largest lake in Europe, except Ladoga, is 
one hundred long, and extends to fifty miles 
in breadth; although, like Malaren, it fre- 
quently contracts narrowly. Wettern Lake 
is two hundred and ninety-five feet above the 

114 EVELYN. 

sea, its sister is only elevated one hundred 
and forty-seven. 

Wettern is in parts immensely deep ; 
perhaps from that cause arises the deep 
green of its waters, green almost as those of 
the Baltic. 

Our polite captain, a lieutenant in the 
navy, out for his three years, when, as the 
pay is small, they are allowed to take other 
employment, gave me a description of it 
quite in unison with my earliest ideas. 

Its exposure throughout its vast length to 
the winds of the north and south, and other 
causes, " arising from its physical formation," 
as a pedant said — without an island to inter- 
rupt the continuous swell of its sea-like 
billows, or offer a refuge to the foundering 
mariners, whose heavily-laden vessels have 
to pass it, might alone cause it to be an 
object of dread ; but it is besides subject 
to some strange caprices, which render it 
decidedly their aversion. Its incertitude 
sets at nought their skill and foreknowledge. 
When a profound calm prevails on land and 
sea, the waves of this paradoxical lake 
"arise and toss themselves:" on the con- 
trary, when a tempest sweeps the land, and 

EVELYN. 115 

the waves of the sea roar horribly, Lake 
Wettern reposes in tranquillity. 

Such phenomena, arising as aforesaid from 
physical constitution, however natural to 
human compositions, are calculated to give 
a mysterious character to a lake. Even 
modern superstition — and this in Sweden is 
not as threadbare a thing- as it is in other 
parts of Europe — is not unimpressed with the 
awe that is reflected from the terrible days 
of old. r 

The fierce and gloomy legends which the 
genius of Scandinavia created, are indeed 
well-nigh worn out ; but still the Wettern 
may recall the idea of those unholy things 
which sported in the storm, and exulted in 
the shriek of the drowning, which danced on 
the surge of the billow, and sang in the 
whistling wind. And where, in the clear 
white gloom of a northern winter night, 
could there be found a more fitting scene 
for the savage wolf-witch, with her jaws 
drij^ping blood, to pursue her ghastly flight, 
than over this vast lonely lake of ice ? 
There are real wolves in abundance, which 
prowl and worry, if they dare not devour, 
the sledge-driving traveller. 

116 EVELYN. 

A white, ghost-like form stood beside me 
on the deck; noiselessly it planted itself 
there ; it stood between me and the full- 
orbed moon that hung clear and pale in the 
twilight sky. 

" Cruel, that you are," said a silvery voice, 
quite full of reproach; "why not awake 
me ? I was asleep, and might have lost this 
magnificent scene." 

" You looked so like a ghost," I replied, 
drawing a long breath, " with that great 
mosquito veil over your head ; if you had 
not spoken so matter-of-fact-like, I should 
have had a mysterious story to record." 

" Ah ! I hate mysteries ; never invent 
them," said Evelyn, " lest as a punishment 
you, too, should have to experience their 
real misery." 

" Yet are you not sometimes mysterious ; 
at least, is there not some mystery about 
you ? " I boldly said. 

" Yes, to my deep sorrow," she instantly, 
and without either offence or prevarication, 
made answer ; " yes ; if not mystery, there is 
concealment ; and I have been always taught 
to think that so wrong ; to feel that one's 
heart and thoughts should be seen as in a 

EVELYN. 117 

looking-glass; that every feeling should be 
bared to the view of others." 

" That system in early education often 
leads to subsequent error, or unhappiness," I 

" I do not think it has led to error in my 
case," she replied ; " to unhappiness — oh, 

There was silence between us ; we looked 
over the mystic moonlit, and daylit lake ; 
then turned and looked into each other's 
eyes. Moonlight then again met mine. 
Without word or sign, we felt our hearts 
conversed, understood each other's language ; 
yet mystically still. 

" You can, then, trust me," said Evelyn, in 
a voice of emotion ; " you can leave me to 
myself, and let me bear my own burden, as 
I must, as I ought to bear it." 

" I can do so," I replied, " and without 
explaining why." 

Evelyn was quite silent for some time ; I 
could not even see her face. 

" I have lately," she said, after this long 
pause, " met some noble hearts ; perhaps 
God never sends to his children a trial, 
that he does not also send some way of 

118 EVELYN. 

escape that they may be able to bear it ; 
though," she added, deeply sighing, "though 
it be not the way their hearts would desire. 
I have honoured you for your silence ; your 
avoidance of all questions." 

" Be assured that I shall always avoid 
asking what you may appear to wish to leave 
unanswered," I replied. 

" Ah !" and that "ah !" must typify a great 
sigh, " that is just what I longed for you to 
say. I have feared to speak, lest I should 
be drawn out to say too much. Oh ! w^hen 
the pent-up heart longs to expand itself, 
to vent even the least part — " 

A great figure, muffled in a long-sleeved 
cloak, came up the steps; Evelyn sprang 
close to me, a scream was bursting from her 

" Sail you natt be too cald, ladees?" said 
our ever-attentive captain. 

I could answer as to the improbability of 
our trembling from cold, but Evelyn trem- 
bled from some other reason. Here, how- 
ever, was a Swede, wrapped up to the eyes, 
and fearing the cold of a summer night ; he 
had a delicate chest, to be sure ; but, strange 
to say, it is always affirmed that foreigners 

EVELYN. 119 

bear the winter cold of Sweden better than 
the natives. 

" How solemn must this scene be in win- 
ter," I said to Evelyn, when he had retired 
again ; " those trees gemmed with icicles, 
— those vast frozen lakes, white and path- 

" I have passed over a part of this in the 
baron's sledge," Evelyn observed ; " we 
came this w-ay from Ystad, and for a part 
of it we were obliged to come on the 
frozen lake. It was a grand but terrible 
scene, and the cry of the wolves!" — she 
shuddered — " when I think of that long 
adventurous journey, just four hundred and 
fifty of our miles, performed under his pro- 
tection, his kind-hearted servant our sole 
attendant ; half-dead as I w^as with fear, 
grief, and cold, surely it is not wonderful, 
that a man so brave, young, and noble in 
mind, should even fancy he loved the forlorn 
creature for whom he endured such hard- 
ship ? One night w^e reached the edge of 
that vast solemn forest : to get through it 
was impossible; a friendly old wood-cutter 
took us into his hut ; — ah ! if you had seen 
how like a father young Oscar watched over 

120 EVELYN. 

me ; Heaven bless him, more than I ever 

" I never have," I said, " v/ondered at the 
love of the noble young Swede ; I only won- 
der how you, so young, lovely, and formed, 
one would say, to love and be loved, could 
not return the sentiment you inspired." 

Evelyn fastened her deeply tender eyes on 
me, and said, 

" You wonder at that ! Well," she added, 
turning the direction, though not the subject, 
of our conversation, " the heart is often a 
mystery to oneself, it must be so, therefore, to 
others. But the baron's love for me was the 
growth merely of circumstances ; I am con- 
vinced he had loved Lilla first ; I am sure 
they both had felt she was his destined 
bride, his legitimate and first love. I came 
between them like the wandering star that 
might eclipse for a moment our view of the 
planet ; but now the eclipse is passed ; or, a 
more appropriate simile is to say, that the 
parted waters will meet, now that the di- 
viding rock is removed. Sweet Lilla ; she 
saw I was that rock ; but she bowed her 
meek heart, and appeared only to love and 
reverence me the more, because she saw he 

EVELYN. 121 

did so. She fancied, dear girl, that hers was 
the love of the moth for the star. Her love 
for Oscar is almost devotion." 

And now the moon was gone ; the gorgeous 
sun came forth rejoicing from his chamber 
in the east. He shone over lovely and 
varied scenery. Wanas, the great fortress 
and military depot of Sweden, guards the 
entrance of the Wettern; it would doubt- 
less be to Sweden what the Capitol was to 
Rome, should that land become the scene of 

Viken is a deep pool in the bosom of fir- 
covered mountains : here the scenery became 
most lovely ; the foliage of more genial tem- 
perature mingled with that of the dark pine 
and fir and the silvery stem of the hardy 
birch. A number of beautiful islands throno-ed 
the passage, and rendered it a curiously 
labyrinthine one. The passage is threaded, 
and the West Gota Canal is entered, — with 
the exception of that at Trollhiittan, the 
most astonishing thing of the kind I ever 
beheld. It is hewn out of granite ; and the 
labour and expense of cutting the passage 
were so great, that, to save a couple of feet in 
width, it is so narrow, that the poor little 

VOL. I. G 

122 EVELYN. 

packet is in danger of crushing its ribs 
against the walls of rock between which it is 
wedged in passing the locks. We feel for 
its position, as well as for that of the anxious 
crew and captain who have to conduct the 
panting, puffing thing through the many- 
curving and dangerous bends of the canal. 
Its progress is naturally slow, but, to my 
fancy, interesting, as we, idle passengers, 
have constantly to run from side to side, 
exclaiming and admiring, as we momentarily 
expect to come dash against the high black 
walls. But the captain says the boats very 
rarely meet with an accident, they are so 
skilfully managed ; yet there, at that projec- 
tion of the curve, a poor sailor who held the 
pole, shoving the boat off from it, toppled 
over, and was killed between that horrid 
paddle and the black wall. The locks are 
numerous, and dignified with royal names, 
as theatres and other things are with us. 
They have the advantage, which royal per- 
sons themselves do not always possess, of 
giving liberty to prisoners ; at the name of 
Charles John, or Prince Oscar, we leap from 
confinement, and ramble at liberty through 
the pleasant country. 

EVELYN. 123 

But beauty is rapidly passing away. The 
highest level of our course is marked on a 
column, as, I think, three hundred feet 
above the sea. We shall soon begin to 
descend, but for some time we have a nearly 
level run, and perhaps therefore an unin- 
teresting one ; the scenery is flat and unro- 
mantic, though more populated and ani- 

At this crisis in our journey, Evelyn and I 
went to sleep. 

My general impression of this West Gota 
Canal, however, is, that fir and birch now take 
place of trees of a more temperate latitude ; 
lichens are in great variety, and the largest 
mosses I ever saw; also heaths, and a profusion 
of wild strawberries in the woods, with an 
equal abundance of wild flowers ; of the lat- 
ter fact w^e had incontrovertible evidence, by 
often getting a smart salute on the cheek from 
a great bunch of these flowers — no matter if 
the nettle or thistle were among them — 
flung with all the benevolence which the 
hope of receiving in return the smallest mite 
into which the Swedish threepenny bank- 
note is divisible, could impart to the poor 
young girl, bare-legged boy, or old woman. 
G 2 

124 EVELYN. 

who threw it at us. Very different from the 
pretty flower-offerers of Florence, who have 
won so much English money, if not hearts, 
they yet made their offering with quite the 
same intentions. 

The banks of this canal were, indeed, in 
some parts, lined with poor creatures, both 
men and women ; some of the former the 
largest I have ever seen in any country. I 
never saw such large men as in this part of 
Sweden. These poor people had not shoes 
nor stockings ; their fair, but tanned or 
freckled faces, and dirty light hair, presented 
nothing of comeliness or interest. The 
head-dress of the women was that most re- 
pulsive one of a dirty-coloured handkerchief, 
wound round the forehead, and all. But if 
there was nothing sentimental or engaging, 
there was nothing offensive in their manner 
or aspect ; they appeared to be civil and 
quiet ; not pertinacious like the beggars of 
Austria, nor clamorous like those of Italy, 
nor impudent like those of Ireland. 

I sometimes seriously incline to the belief 
that my journeys are productive of some 
skiey influences. I know not how it is, but 
I fancy if any one particularly wanted fine 

EVELYN. 125 

weather, and were to send me on a journey, — 
of course paying its expenses, — the weather 
would be fine. It is always so when I am 
en route. 

Now, on Midsummer's Eve, it might have 
been raining if I had been stationary in 
England, but not a drop fell on the banks of 
the West Gota Canal ; never have I to record 
the usual complaints of travellers against 
weather and disappointments. It is very 
strange, but it is true. 

The feast of St. John in the north has 
taken place of the feast of the Scandinavian 
deity Balder. We came in our rambles on 
a gala group of young peasants, celebrating 
in the pleasant ball-room of a meadow that 
ancient fete of the sun. A high pole was 
decorated with a parachute-like crown of 
wild flowers, and a spiral rope of the same 
wound it around. The dance went on in a 
circle about it, like that of our old May- 
day, which is now only celebrated by the 
chimney-sweepers of London. We were 
in the land of Jenny Lind and of Taglioni, 
but neither the music nor dancing reminded 
us of either the Swedish nightingale or Swe- 
dish danseuse. The notes of a home-made 

126 EVELYN. 

Yiolin were eked out at irregular intervals 
by a chorus of vocal sounds ; but whether 
these proceeded from the nightingales or 
corncreaks of Sweden, I, unfortunately, was 
not ornithologist enough to discover. Yet 
it was a happy and innocent scene. Many 
of our merry passengers took part in it, and 
the young people received the dancing tri- 
bute to their flower-pole in good part, and 
were in no degree " put out of the way " by 
the accession of a foreign troop. 

This was near to Carlstad, where we had 
to stop for three hours ; it is the chief town 
of the province, the residence of a bishop 
and governor, and seated on the brink of the 
Wenern, on an island formed by the junc- 
tion there of the great river Klar, which, 
after a roll of two hundred and fifty miles 
from Norway, pours itself here into the 
Avaters of this vast lake, with them to find 
its only passage through the narrow opening 
of the rocks at Trollhattan. Most of our pas- 
sengers went off to examine the pet fortress 
of the late soldier king ; I found Evelyn 
sitting with her feet almost in the lake, 
her head encircled with a coronet of mos- 
quitoes, wheeling round the brow they ap- 

EVELYN. 127 

peared afraid to touch. My forehead was 
one great red blister, and hers was as white 
as ever. It is curious that that part of " the 
human face divine" is the sphere of their 
malignant attacks. They are evidently an 
intellectual tribe. 

Evelyn had been conversing with a finely- 
dressed officer of the Swedish navy, one of 
the enrolled, but not employed, who hold 
lands after the ancient tenure of military 
service. He had come to Carlstad to see 
the governor, whom, as he, like all seamen 
of his country, spoke English, he called " the 
general." But he had the double object of 
making one at the midsummer ball; and 
fearing to be late for it, he went away soon 
after I returned. 

" Do you really never dance?" I said to 

She answered my question, as a certain 
people are said to do, by asking another. 

"Do you?" 

" I am too old." 

" Equivocal ! But did you ever ?" 

*' Many a time ; and giddily as any one ; 
even as the Swedes can do ; as that young 
Oscar and Lilla did the other night. But I 

128 EVELYN. 

gave it up when I came to years of dis- 
cretion. I have not danced since I was 
seventeen years old." 

" What a droll person you are ! What 
could make you give up dancing when most 
people begin ?" 

" Sorrow, and, people say, religion." 

Evelyn sighed. 

" Well," she said, " such was not my case ; 
I never was taught to dance. I always 
thought it was sinful." 

" You were then religiously brought up ?" 

" I was brought up by what are termed 
strictly evangelical people ; pious, excellent, 
well-meaning w^omen." 

Out rung the little imperative bell from 
the boat, and down came running all the 
straggling passengers, leaving their various 
employments ; some from taking a warm 
bath, some from eating a better supper in the 
town than they could find on board, — but 
these were neither natives nor Germans, for 
the supper was paid for, eaten or not, — and 
Evelyn and I from criticising our early edu- 
cation. That work was postponed, for we 
had now to dive down " feet foremost," in 
the manner aforesaid, in order to try to mas- 

EVELYN. 129 

ticate our daily bread ; a work of more prac- 
tical utility, but so much more difficult, that, 
overcome with the labour of trying to break 
knacken into eatable subdivisions, and of 
shaking my head at the sundry plates pre- 
sented to me by the busy Flika, I went to 
my berth, and slept the sleep of the weary. 

G 3 

130 EVELYN. 



I WAS fast asleep when we got into the 
Wenern : but I was awoke by Evelyn, in 
her white dress and gleaming hair, bending 
over me, and, with a low whisper, causing me 
to jump up in an instant to the living world. 

She wanted me, so naturally, to come on 
deck, and see the dangers of our passage. 
It was indeed most intricate : parts of the 
Wenern are exceedingly shallow, and so 
beset with rocks that the only safe channel 
is marked by sticks, so close to each other 
as barely to leave room for a vessel between 
them, while the rocks and sharp-pointed 
crags bristle up equally close, and the nu- 
merous islets render the passage tortuous, 
as well as difficult. 

To the fearfully disposed, all this at night 
would not be agreeable ; even the chiar- 

EVELYN. 131 

oscuro of a northern sky might be insuf- 
ficient to guide a steersman, less skilful 
than a Norwegian one, through its clusters 
of rocks and islets ; but Evelyn was quite 
delighted when she got me to stand beside 
her, and with a sense of perfect safety we 
saw our young captain guide our packet 
within a hair's breadth of the jutting crags ; 
sometimes just the least little scrape, and off 

This was only for a part of our passage ; 
though for some distance the shores of the 
vast lakes are near, and form even jutting 
peninsulas far into it ; and though the Kine- 
kulle, the Brocken of Sweden, was shown 
to me from it, yet does the boat take another 
course, and gets out on the wide, deep lake, 
and then no eyes can range over its expanse 
of fifty miles, neither can they meet any 
object whereon to rest in the intermediate 

" Now, Evelyn," I said, " I really am very 
sleepy ; there are no more dangers to awake 
me to see : the sun performs the part of the 
night-police in Sweden, and you remind me 
of the old watchmen of by-gone days in 
England, who made the country gentleman 

132 EVELYN. 

complain that they awoke him to tell him 
what o'clock it was." 

" Yet I am not a coward," she replied, 
with a smile. 

'' You have moral courage, perhaps too 
much," I answered ; " good night. Do you 
sleep too." 

We both did so. 

The words of command given by the 
captain in Swedish are almost the same as 
those used in our language, so that some 
travellers have imagined that English words 
are used ; the calling out of some of these 
words, though in the silky voice of Sweden, 
awoke us both ; we started up, and found 
we were at Wenersborg, or the town of the 
Wener, as would be its interpretation. 

Here we had to take in wood, an opera- 
tion at which others might grumble, but at 
which I was much pleased, we saw so much 
to amuse us, and passed the time so agree- 
ably. Certainly in England, where time is 
money, and a person who steals a man's 
time is therefore a pickpocket, and ought, 
if our laws were consistent, to be more 
severely punished than he who steals a 
handkerchief, the Gottenburg Canal would 

EVELYK. 133 

not answer as well as the railroads ; but 
everything is beautiful in its season, and 
perhaps when the railroad is made between 
Gottenburg and Stockholm we shall find it 
beautiful too. 

We left any one to grumble that pleased ; 
and while some of the immense piles of 
wood, which are most artistically built up 
along the banks, were being carried into the 
boat by herculean, yet very poor-looking 
Swedes, we walked forth into the rather 
dreary town of Wenersborg. 

The houses, raised only one story above 
the ground-floor, are laid out in regular 
order, at a distance so wide apart as to 
give an idea of unsociability ; they seem to 
say, " I am obliged to be near you, but I will 
keep as far off as I can." In fact, they look 
like the streets of Berlin, where a certain 
space of ground was obliged to be covered 
with buildings. 

Land cannot be as dear on the banks of 
the Wenern as in over-crowded England ; 
the object, however, is, not to keep peace 
between neighbours, but to prevent them 
from taking fire from each other. 

Since a terrible conflagration that took 

134 EVELYN. 

place here about a dozen years ago, Weners- 
borg, like princely Hamburg, is rising like 
the phoenix from its ashes. The ancient 
church stands in the centre of a desolate 
square ; we saw nothing to charm us in the 
town, but in returning we found occupation 
in examining the national vehicles ; the 
small carriages, and the compact little 
horses that draw them, the antique ploughs, 
and rude farming implements, all worthier 
of a simpler age than the nineteenth cen- 
tury. I could not help thinking what a 
mutual-advantage system it might prove if 
English or Scotch farmers were encouraged 
to settle in this agricultural country. But 
some one told me Sweden did not like such 

Here we saw cars and carts patched up in 
a primitive fashion, the timber not altogether 
stripped of its bark. Here too we were 
amused by the curious carriages used by 
these people for the transit of their frozen 
lakes ; but some of them were too awful to 
be lightly spoken of — a sailing carriage upon 
ice ! literally propelled by sails. Hail to the 
old genius of Scandinavia ! could anything 
be more in keeping with it ? 

EVELYN. 135 

The less imaginative vehicle consists of 
two shafts of rough fir, extending two or 
three feet behind the part on which the 
body rests ; these trail on the ground, and are 
rarely cased in iron, labour and wood not 
rendering the first expense the best. 

A wooden bridge, a mile long, was our 
next promenade ; it crosses the broad Gota 
river at its exit from its source in the lake, 
and is the only medium of communication, 
except that of boats, between the eastern 
and western shores of the Wenern, and 
opens to permit vessels to pass. The effect 
of the miniature carriages of the country, 
with their Lilliputian steeds, making the 
rapid transit of this bridge, — for every driver 
in Sweden appears the lineal descendant of the 
son of Nimshi, — contrasts almost enchantingly 
with the immensity of the lake they gallop 
over, its stilly surface shadowed along the dis- 
tant shore by the wood-clothed bank. 

Fish, which we were told — alas, are w^e not 
always told so of things we are not to pos- 
sess ?— were of a delicious quality, sported in 
our very sight, as if mocking us with the cry, 
" Come eat me, come eat me," and breaking, 
together with the sleep of the deep, our 

136 EVELYN. 

charm of poetry and imagination, by exciting 
the covetous desire of being able to add them 
to the more easily subdivided provisions of 
our steamboat salle d manger. Well, every- 
thing is beautiful in its season, and so, too, is 
knacken, for I have brought a bit of it to 
England, and I look upon it with affection, 
as on an old, but very crusty friend. I 
wanted very much to go to see Walchall, a 
singular rock which we had been told to 
see, but which we could not see. It is a 
heart-shaped rock, supposed to have formed 
an altar of pagan sacrifice : some say that 
on this rock victims were immolated, and 
others say, that from this rock the elderly 
heroes of old Scandinavia used to precipitate 
themselves, from impatience to meet the 
embrace of Odin in Valhalla. Had my re- 
searches been pursued on the spot, I might 
have been able to throw light on the sub- 
ject ; but I must leave the rock and its 
offices just where I found them. Indeed, 
while I was coveting an excursion to the 
neighbouring mountain of Hunneberget, the 
name of which commemorates a battle of the 
Huns, and to the splendid valley, which has, 
for a longer period, commemorated " the 

EVELYN. 137 

dread magnificence " of nature, Evelyn took 
my arm, saying, 

" The mountains, the valley, and rock 
will remain where they are, and the fish are 
beyond your grasp, but the boat is moving 
off to Trollhattan." 

" And to effect the possible, instead of 
speculating on the impossible, is, I con- 
clude, the moral you would imply," I an- 
swered. "AIl07lS." 

The passage of the locks at Trollhattan 
occupies fully two hours. The canal is car- 
ried over a height of a hundred and twenty> 
feet above the Gota river, which issues 
from the falls ; and its channel for half an 
English mile has been blasted out of the 
granite mountain. 

In the contemplation of this really stu- 
pendous work, the mind is strongly yet 
agreeably divided between admiration of art 
and nature ; both spring from the same 
source, the fountain of wisdom and love. 

Hans Anderson, in his story of a Life, has 
given a brief expression to the wonder of a 
native of level Denmark at this sight : — " I 
was in the highest degree astonished at the 
Trollhattan voyage. It sounds to the unin- 

138 EVELYN. 

itiated like a fable, or fairy tale, when one 
says that the steamboat goes up across lakes, 
over mountains, from whence may be seen 
the outstretched pine and beech (?) woods 
below. Immense sluices heave up and lower 
the vessel, while the travellers ramble in the 
woods. None of the cascades of Switzer- 
land, none in Italy, not even that of Terni, 
have in them anything so imposing as that 
of Trollh'attan. Such, at least, is the im- 
pression it made upon me." 

And, taken in connection with the singular 
adaptation of the falls, and even of the sur- 
rounding works, to the nature of the scenery, 
such also is the impression that it made upon 

Having made this voyage both in the 
ascent and descent, that is to say, in going 
towards Stockholm and coming from it, I 
deem a great advantage ; but prefer the 
former both for grandeur and interest. In 
coming from Gottenburg, the first point of 
view is from the river Gota, when an almost 
unequalled sight holds you spell-bound be- 
fore the mystical Trollhattan. Hanging on 
the side of a wood-crowned mountain, you 
see a white fallen cloud, a hill of snow. 

EVELYN. 139 

anything, you fancy it, but a torrent of 
water; and when you are told it is water, 
you imagine the old Troll has arrested its 
accumulated froth and spray, and suspended 
it for ages in a stationary mass, a mountain 
of snow-white vapour. 

Then you see, as you ascend towards its 
source, how the young " exulting river," 
fresh from its struggle for freedom, bears on 
its surface some of that " young republic" 
excitement which a lengthened course will 
subdue, while the great old grey granite 
rock looks over it, like the stern guardian 
that frowns on the escapade of the impe- 
tuous scapegrace, bursting with a shout of 
wild delight from its parent lake. 

Here, it is running away beneath the boat 
you sail in ; there, it is still, white, calm, and 
moveless, hanging on the mountain-side with 
the tall green trees above it, and its voice is 
yet unheard. 

On we come, and gaze round with a sen- 
sation of awe. 

" Truly, this is like Scandinavia," Evelyn 

Never did I see a place where the art of 
man had been brought among the sublimities 

140 EVELYN. 

of nature without creating a sense of vexa- 
tion in the beholder's mind, except at Troll- 
hattan,the astonishing works of this engineer- 
ing achievement are so entirely in character 
with the aspect of the scenery. 

That singular chain of locks, as they rise 
up the face of the mountain, look in the 
distance like the wards of a giant key ; and 
the waters, you may fancy, roar out his im- 
patience, as he waits its turning to plunge 
into the abyss below. Imagination may 
riot at Trollhattan ; but, in simple reality, 
our poor little packet stood at the top of 
that vast chain of locks, with its nose just 
peeping over them ; for, be it remembered, 
I have been now sketching the upward route, 
not our actual downward one. 

We got out near to the large stone-built 
inn, quite a great affair for Sweden ; but this 
is a show-place ; all our fellow-passengers, 
having taken their peep at the falls, went 
there for another species of enjoyment, and 
we were left alone. 

Trollhattan Falls consist of four vast 
rapids, formed by the water of Wenern Lake, 
which can only find vent by a fissure in the 
rocks two hundred yards wide, through 

EVELYN. 141 

which this great body of water rushes, iu 
this head-over-heels fashion, to soothe itself 
to a quieter demeanour in the channel of 
the Gota river. 

Some one remarked, that if these falls 
were perpendicular, they would be the great- 
est in Europe ; I should think so, as their 
length is about an English mile. 

Their roar is heard at a great distance, 
and its sublime effect is quite in harmony 
with that of the scene. 

This spot is well named TroUhattan,* for 
there is something magical about it alto- 
gether, and one can easily believe that the 
Troll kept here his dwelling-place as well as 
his hat. 

This water is not a cataract, neither is it 
like any waterfall I ever saw ; around it 
there is no Alpine scenery, no eternal snow, 
or savage desert ; its character is its own ; 
it is a whirling, powerful mass of water that 
will have its own way, and roars and dashes 
through the rocks and woods, making them 
appear to tremble at its fury, and re-utter 
its passionate voice, as it whirls down its 
wide, but encumbered descent, encircling in 

* Anglice^ the Conjurer's Hat. 

142 EVELYN. 

its way that adjunct of Swedish water- 
scenery, a fir-covered island. 

This small island is reached by a wooden 
bridge ; where, alas, for such nuisances ! a 
guardian dragon is stationed to collect a toll. 
This is the point de vue. Here, in the midst 
of the roaring, tearing stream, you think the 
rocky island trembles beneath your feet: 
here we are told a German fainted, from 
fear, I suppose, of the island sailing off with 
him ; and there, more melancholy still, a 
sensitive Frenchman is said to have died ! 

There is a great cavern down lower, which 
w^as, I believe, the residence of the Troll: 
many a wild and fearful superstition is still 
connected with it. But the Conjurer's Hat, 
which has stood sponsor to the king of tor- 
rents, is merely a circular hole in the rock, 
in vertically covered with autogTaphs, said to 
be those of the kings, queens, and great 
folks of Sweden, from I know not who, down 
to Bernadotte ; together with those of many 
more, who got into the Conjurer's Hat in 
order thus to inform the world that they 
once had " a local habitation and a name." 

I stood there, thinking of the Troll more 
than of the autographs in his hat, while 

EVELYN. 148 

Evelyn walked on before me, and entered 
the island. 

I saw her standing there gazing on the 
advancing torrent ; but she turned, and the 
earnest, and then frightened look she fast- 
ened on the great dark rock below the upper 
fall, made me wonder whether she too fan- 
cied she felt that tremblement de terre which 
had caused the sad results before mentioned. 
With a low, faint cry, as if in exquisite 
pain, she moved a pace or two backward, 
and fell against me as I came on. 

" He is not in danger, do not alarm your- 
self," I cried ; for, naturally looking in the 
direction she had turned to, I perceived a 
man clinging to the abrupt rocks, down 
which a rash curiosity, that seemed to write 
him English, had evidently made him de- 
scend, in hope of having a finer view from 
beneath it. 

But surely, I thought, the old Troll had 
endued this island with the faculty of in- 
spiring terrors, when Evelyn, grasping my 
arm with a pressure that even from her light 
hand was painful, cried in a low voice of 
anguish, " Ah ! save me ! hide me ! take me 

144 EVELYN. 

I drew her arm through mine, and led her 
so quickly away that she had not time to 

We did not say a word, but walked on 
over the sawdust-strewn path until we came 
near the small lake, from which the blue 
frocks and red caps of the seamen, who there 
anchor their barges, appeared picturesquely 
through the trees. I had an idea that it was 
well to keep in the way of help : it never 
once struck me that Evelyn's terror was 
caused by love. But truly Trollhattan was 
to be a place of mystery to me. 

EVELYN. 145 



I REMEMBERED my promise, and resolved 
to die a martyr to curiosity, rather than ask 
Evelyn a question, I put her to sit on a felled 
tree, and I stood beside her. It was as much 
as to say, Here I am, but there is no com- 
munication between us unless you make the 
first move." 

In fact, she did so ; but I believe she spoke 
only to herself. " He will go the other 
way," she said ; " he will join the boat that 
is going to Stockholm." 

" To Stockholm," I repeated, just by way 
of keeping open the channel of communi- 
cation without being inquisitive. 

" Yes, must he not," she demanded, lifting 
up such a face, — a face of bewilderment, agony, 
and affection, — " when he is going for me?" 

" For you, Evelyn ? Oh ! I see, you wish to 
avoid this person." 

VOL. I. H 

146 EVELYN. 

She threw me a reproachful glance ; then 
put her elbows on her knees, laid her face in 
her open palms, and burst into a flood of tears. 

" Dear, dear Frank," she murmured ; but 
the words came from the heart rather than 
from the lips ; the very tone in which the 
common-place name of Frank was uttered 
revealed to me whole pages in a chapter of 

" Evelyn, Evelyn!" I cried, " we can stop 
him yet ; I can run." I was almost off, 
when she caught my dress. She held it for 
a minute silently, and without lifting up her 

" No, no," she said, with a deep sigh, " it 
is better not ; I have not strength ; at least it 
is better not to trust our strength too far ; if 

I should fail, if I should betray Oh, no, 

let him go." 

" Incomprehensible girl," I exclaimed, for 
when one is in a benevolent humour, it is 
hard to be thus checked ; " yet you love 
that man, I know you do." 

Evelyn's large, clear, brown eyes rose up, 
and looked fully into mine ; their first ex- 
pression changed, for that had been like dis- 

EVELYN. 147 

" And even if you are right," she said, 
with a faltering voice and a varying colour, 
" does not true love act for the happiness and 
good of the beloved ?" 

" You are right, and true," I answered ; 
" but may not the happiness of one or two 
lives hang on the decision of this moment ? 
let it then be wisely made." 

She bent down her face again ; and once 
more burst into such a passion of grief as I 
scarcely thought she could have given way 
to. She wept like a child ; sobbed and 
trembled with emotion. I drew away one 
hand, and silently pressed it between mine. 

The poor girl became calmer, and faintly 
returning the pressure looked anxiously up, 
and said, 

" You will not forsake me now ?" 

" Decidedly not." 

She sat some moments as if listening to 
the roar of the falls, the murmur of the saw- 
mills, the hush of the summer leaves. 

She heard them not ; her mind was in far 
other scenes. 

" I will not see him," she said at last, 
looking to me with that agitated and work- 
ing countenance, which I think would have 
H 2 

148 EVELYN. 

enlisted a host of the crusaders of old in her 
cause ; " we may be strong for others, and 
weak for ourselves ; but, ah ! dear friend, do 
you go ; I can rely upon you, you will not 
betray me. Just go and bring me word if he 
is still there ; if he is still the same, or if 
he looks anxious and altered. Bring me his 
description, and I will bless you for it." 

I went off without a word. The last direc- 
tion was sufficiently explicit to act upon ; 
though how I was to perform the foregoing, 
without having previously seen the object in 
question, poor Evelyn forgot to explain. 

As I re-approached the falls, I saw the 
unknown had got out of his rather hazard- 
ous predicament, and was now standing in 
the little island quite in the established ^ero- 
attitude, for his arms were actually folded, 
and every novel hero folds his arms on every 
possible contingency. 

I drew an augury from the fact. 

The stranger was watching the torrent 
that came madly dashing down, as if it would 
hurl his resting-place before it. I stopped, 
and, leaning on the little gate, made my 
observations also. 

I saw a young man who at first sight struck 

EVELYN. 149 

me as being like Evelyn, yet liis hair was 
nearly black, and his eyes a clear, bright 
blue. His figure possessed that grace which 
is certainly preferable in men to mere regu- 
larity of feature, yet his countenance was one 
of no common cast, and you felt that such a 
person, once seen, was not again easily for- 

Intent as he was on the wild scene before 
him, it was not easy for me to fulfil Evelyn's 
commission, and report whether anxiety or 
sorrow marked that countenance. It was 
grave, and I was going to say earnest, but 
that is the word used to express everything 
now ; and who could stand in such a spot 
with a different expression of the tone of 
minc^ it inspired ? His dress, also, might 
reasonably account for something of the same 
expression ; for while it resembled that of no 
other priesthood, there was a certain air of 
stiffness about it, which, together with the 
distinctive badge of a white neckerchief, told 
me he was a clergyman of the Church of 
Endand. A few moments sufficed for such 
observations ; but they were interrupted by 
the movements of their object, who, after a 
gaze of intense, though silent emotion, at 

150 EVELYN. 

the scene around him, declined his head, as 
if the action involuntarily expressed the 
bowing of the spirit to the great, holy Power, 
which it felt and discerned " in the things 
that are made." 

Then he had to pass out of the little 
wicket on which I was leaning. I drew 
back, and he made me a bow, and gave a 
glance that said "Are you English?" But 
he passed me in silence, and I felt as if 
Evelyn's fate, her spirit-twin, had gone by 

The stranger to me — what was he to her? 
— took the way to the inn, and I went back 
as fast as I could in the contrary direction. 
I almost expected to find this too mysterious 
girl had been caught up by the strange beings 
of the cave, called Sjafboden, or conjured 
away by the Troll. 

She had crept on to meet me, and stood 
leaning against a tall tree ; a look of girlish 
excitement, one that made visible the flutter- 
ings of a fond and fearful heart, was bent 
forward to me, as she said anxiously, " Well, 
how does he look?" 

" He looks like a handsome, yet iatellec- 
tual, young Englishman," I replied ; " but 

EVELYN. 151 

never having seen him before, I cannot tell 
whether he ever looked otherwise." 

" Ah ! I forgot that. But does he look 
anxious, sorrowful?" 

" No. His aspect is grave ; perhaps, espe- 
cially about the mouth, which is not at all 
like yours, bordering on severe, at least ex- 
pressive of a moral strength, which often 
gives a character of severity. But, Evelyn, 
.we must now act like sensible people. Our 
packet will soon have passed the locks ; there 
is still a choice for you to make. Let us 
either give up our progress to Gottenburg, 
stop here, meet this man, and — I own in my 
own idea of the case — put an end to your 
troubles and difficulties, and make yourself 
happy ; or let us come on to meet our boat. 
If you wish it, I will stay here with you." 
There was a moment's silence. Then Evelyn 
put her arm through mine, and said, 

" To the boat ; " and she set off at a 
rapid pace. I think if she had walked 
slower her purpose might have altered. 

The paths from the falls to the canal 
meander, for about an hour's walk, through 
delicious scenery : it was a sunny and breezy 
day; the wind was hot, and it flung from 

152 EVELYN. 

the tall trees dancing shadows over the bright 
grass. There is something wild and pecu- 
liar, something that, as I have said, imagina- 
tion can associate with the Trolls and Valas 
of old times, in particular aspects which 
Trollhiittan presents. 

The path was thickly covered with dry, 
clean sawdust, and, homely as the covering 
might be, there was a degree both of plea- 
sure and poetry in the soft noiseless tread,, 
which harmonized with the not ungentle, 
and to me most pleasing murmur of the 
humming saw-mills, the rustle of the foliage 
so loftily raised above our heads, and the 
distinct, but not stunning voice of the ever- 
roaring torrent. 

Wild and beautifully frantic as it is, that 
current has been tamed in a degree to man's 
more resistless will, or made subservient to 
his arts and purposes. These saw-mills are 
a curious feature in the scene, and while 
they detract from its original air of lonely 
grandeur, are more in keeping with it than 
many other works would be. 

Man, that ever-toiling ant, brings his 
schemes and labours into the mightiest, and 
apparently the most unalterable of nature's 

EVELYN. 153 

operations, and proves that to him alone, 
little as he is in comparison, was primevally 
given dominion over the works of God's 

The saws which, without manual labour, 
divide into planks the immense quantity of 
wood carried by this channel to Gottenburg, 
are kept in motion by the water, and their 
sound is a soft dreamy hum, quite unlike the 
harsh grating of the steam machinery for 
the same purpose which I have heard in 
England. The wind was so warm, the sun 
so bright, and the place so charming, that I 
found it impossible to walk as fast as Evelyn ; 
she had dropped my arm, and finally got 
on far before me, while I sauntered after, 
making these observations on scenery and 

Our packet had passed the locks of Troll- 
hattan Canal, which, as I think I before 
described, has been the means of opening 
this water-passage to Stockholm, by avoiding 
the tremendous obstacle interposed by the 

All our passengers, a great many fresh 
ones having joined us, were already crowded 
on the little decks when I got on board. I 
H 3 

154 EVELYN. 

(lid not see Evelyn. I went here and there 
among the Swedes, Germans, Fins, Nor- 
wegians, Lapps, and sundries, but she was 
too distinct a being not to be discerned. 

A thousand ideas can, in such a dilemma, 
come and go in one moment through the 
brain ; one settled conviction rested in my 
mind ; I knew I should never be at peace 
with myself again if I went on and left her 
behind, uncertain whether accident, design, 
or, })erhaps, compulsion, had detained her. 

I was on the point of springing from the 
boat, though the words " Gji an " had been 
given, when it struck me that she might 
very naturally have gone straight down to 
our little cabin. It was better to go there 
and look, as I could get out at the next 

The blue striped curtain was drawn across 
the door ; putting the least bit of it aside, 
I peeped within. Evelyn was kneeling on 
the floor with her back to me, her face 
raised towards the opposite window ; her 
hands lay cross-wise on her breast ; her face 
expressed even passionate emotion. Her 
small travelling bonnet, which more resem- 
bled a cap, had been thrown hurriedly off, 

EVELYN. 155 

and her glowing hair made her look, when 
thus falling around her, a Magdalen, in all 
but humiliation. There was nothing of hu- 
miliation, nothing of penitence, in that work- 
ing countenance ; it was rather the appeal 
to Heaven of an upright and pure soul, de- 
sirous amid mortal weakness, or against the 
sinfulness of others, to maintain the course 
it was called to pursue. Such was the 
reflection of the soul that seemed to be 
wrought in that fair face, which, amidst the 
workings of a passionate tenderness, was 
still full of a sweetness that mi^ht be called 
holy. I withdrew, in the conviction that 
Evelyn knelt not there at that moment to 
plead for pardon, or implore grace to regain 
a better path. 

We passed Lilla Edet, a great saw-mill 
station, and a village prettily named, which 
reminded me of the sweet young Swede, 
and her silent love ; but Lilla, in Swedish, 
signifies nothing but "little." 

The Stroms Canal, says our John Tel- 
ford captain, was constructed to avoid the 
fall at Lilla Edet. The fall here is indeed 
the herald of the king of torrents. The 
waters from TroUhiittan here take a last, and 

156 EVELYN. 

splendid leap, before they settle down in the 
quiet stream of the Gota, bounding beauti- 
fully from the edge of a huge rock which 
nearly fills their bed. 

Here then commences, or ends, that pro- 
digy of engineering art, Trollhattan Canal, 
although five pieces of canal, between this 
and the mountain town of Wenersborg, are 
distinguished by distinct names. Now we 
are taking leave of canals, and are to finish 
our wonderful journey on the river. De- 
lighted myself with all I saw, felt, or under- 
stood, it was with a feeling of repulsion from 
a mind so opposite, that I read this note in 
a travellers pocket-book : 

" These canals and locks are tedious and 
monotonous, and when the mind has stretched 
itself in wonder and admiration at the co- 
lossal proportions of this masterpiece of 
engineering skill, it becomes affected with 
ennui at the endless repetition of locks, over 
which the little packet creeps and scrambles 
in its ascending way." 

" Ah," said Evelyn, faintly smiling, " a 
mental collapse appears to have succeeded 
the stretching process." 

From Strom to Kongelf the scenery is 

EVELYN. 157 

pleasing and diversified, and the rest of the 
course to Gottenburg becomes of a different 
character to that of our previous course. 

Coloured wooden houses, chiefly red, though 
of a large size, are scattered over bright pas- 
tures covered with herds of cattle ; grey and 
fantastic crags are often partly clothed with 
a long moss of the same hue ; a great variety 
of lichens and gigantic firs mingle with 
glimpses of interesting home scenery, and 
constitute an aspect which is not at all ex- 
traordinary, yet totally unfamiliar to English 

At the ancient town of Kongelf the moun- 
tains begin to rise, and much more animation 
is seen ; picturesque ruins of fortresses and 
castles crown the heights; the towering 
pine, the lonely lord of the solitary rock, 
still, Crusoe-like, looks out over the rich, 
verdant strip of pasture which lies in the 
midst of harsh piles of granite, reminding 
one, as I said to my now silent companion, 
of a gentle woman's mind thrown into rough 
ungenial circumstances. 

" I like you," said Evelyn, " for seeing 
beauty everywhere and in everything ; those 
little speeches often touch my heart, be- 

158 EVELYN. 

cause the comparison applies to its feel- 

" Well, if Gottenburg was not in sight, 
I should try to make another ; but now we 
are going slowly through all these barges 
and boats, with their cargoes of wood, and 
iron, and corn, and I suppose, cranberries, 
too, for I think I read somewhere that Got- 
tenburg exported thirty thousand quarts of 
cranberries one year. Look, Evelyn, do 
look at those boats, rowed by the great stout 
women of Sweden ! " 

How curious it is to hear the remarks of 
travellers. People, of course, have said the 
same in regard to ourselves. But we had 
taken in at Trollhattan three or four natives 
of Great Britain. One was a chubby-faced 
John Bull, who was on some trading affair, 
or railway speculation at Gottenburg: the 
other was a man with a pocket-book, in 
which, with a look of some wildness, he wrote 
an abbreviation of anything he heard which 
he understood. But, like the poor Welsh- 
man, who lately lost his life in an attempt 
to prove that the blankets of the American 
Indians were fabricated by a tribe of the 
same people who fabricate the same things 

EVELYN. 159 

in Wales, this good man found out in all he 
saw, or all he heard of, some resemblance, 
or some discrepancy between Wales and its 
people, and the people and country wherein 
he travelled. I have observed in Scotch- 
men's books of travel the same tendency. 
Now, when I made Evelyn look at the female 
row^ers, a young enthusiastic man, who was 
not either of these two, exclaimed, 

" The Amazons of the north ! the daugh- 
ters of Odin ! " 

" What a many big daughters he must 
have, that Mr. Odin," said the chubby-faced 
John, turning his own great dull eyes on the 

" The women of Sweden are robust," said 
the observer with the book, " but they do 
not exceed the women of Wales. From what 
I have seen of Sweden, I should say the men 
are well made, the upper classes especially so, 
that is, judging from that fine young artillery 
officer at the passport-office in Gottenburg ; 
but not more so than the Welsh." 

" The girls," said the young man, " are 
fair, but freckled; the children have blue 
eyes, when they are not grey, and the wo- 
men are plain, with some exceptions." 

160 EVELYN. 

" Hum, hum, hum," the man with the 
note-book kept murmuring between his lips, 
while he wrote down the qualified descrip- 

And now we are landed. Our four days 
and a half are ended : farewell, a long fare- 
well, I fear, to the dear little John Tel- 
ford. All I can say is, that I could spend my 
four days and a half over again very willingly ; 
much more willingly, I fear, than ever I 
shall spend a fourth of the time in the famous 
railroad they are going to make to supply 
the place of this wonderful canal. 

Guided by an old hand-book, of which, be 
it remarked, that our inestimable captain 
said, very expressively, " If I had behaved 
so very badly in a foreign country, as the 
man who wrote that account of the Gotten- 
burg journey says he did in this, I do not 
think I should have liked to publish it when 
I came back to my own." 

Would that many young tourists, or voy- 
agers, and scribblers, would take the Swe- 
dish sailor's hint. 

But to return to our hand-book, for I feel 
a wicked spirit stirring when I think of good 
paper and print being employed to cele- 

EVELYN. 161 

brate the schoolboy pranks that the know- 
ledge of having a little English gold in their 
pockets enables — but I dare not proceed ; — 
as an old woman said, looking over her 
spectacles, " the chap should go to school 
again ;" and so in their tongues, if they 
understood them, have, I fear, the people 
of every clime been saying, while the happy 
natives of England thought they were staring- 
out their admiration. 

Well, once more, to return. This book 
told us that " at Mrs. Todd's hotel, at Got- 
tenburg, all the household speaks English." 
Comforting ourselves with the pleasant pros- 
pect of being surrounded on all sides by the 
speech of our beloved queen, we loyally 
repaired to Mrs. Todd's hotel. As we drew 
near her door, we beheld a stout dame — not 
Mrs. Todd, for she, Ave afterwards found, was 
on her travels — standing in the doorway, one 
shoulder leaning against one door-post, and 
the opposite elbow, the hand of which was 
stuck into her side, resting against the other. 
I do not invent any part of my story, and this 
may be received as well as any declaration 
before a magistrate, for I put that great bug- 
bear, called the public, in his place. 

162 EVELYN. 

She looked at us, but did not stir nor 
speak. We felt she was not one of the 
English-speaking household, for the faculty 
of uttering our words gives a wonderful and 
easy presumption to the smart waiter who in 
all lands trips forth to receive the gold- 
bringing people of England. 

The dame did not alter her attitude, nor 
withdraw from the barricaded door; but 
seeing, I suppose, on our resolute English 
countenances, as we advanced, a cool de- 
termination to carry the fortress, she yielded 
at discretion ; making a sign with her head, 
over her shoulder, to a tall young w^oman 
who advanced, and stood erect on the posi- 
tion she had yielded. The young woman 1{ 
regarded us with all the quiet gravity of her 
nation, when in repose ; I saw she was made 
over to us, and with a smile, I said, 
" You speak English, min flika?" 
" Yes," she answered. 
I nodded both to her and Evelyn, and 
feeling quite at home now, we entered the inn. 
The odour of the juniper-leaves which cover 
the passages and floors of these very clean 
northern receptacles, is not exactly adapted 
to sensitive organs ; but stifling ours, we 

EVELYN. 163 

followed the tall Swede to an immensely 
long room, with a very small room at each 
end. The small rooms held two equally 
small beds. Evelyn put down her bonnet 
and shawl on one bed of one room, and I 
walked to the opposite extremity, and did 
nearly the same thing. 

"And now as to eating," I said, as we 
both simultaneously issued from the dormi- 
tory, and stood face to face in the long 
saloon, where the young Swede was standing 
also ; " as to eating, that is the question 
now. I am starving. I had not strength to 
pound the bread ; and, in short, notwith- 
standing the three meals of meat per diem 
in the boat, I am very hungry, and I long 
for a cup of tea. As they all speak English 
here, we can get anything ; shall I order 
cutlets and tea, Evelyn ?" 

" Very well." 

" Can you give us tea?" I asked of the 
tall flika. 

" Yes," she replied, very gravely. 

" And some mutton cutlets?" 

« Yes." 

" Be so good as to get them directly, with 
fresh bread and butter, and some boiled milk." 

164 EVELYN. 

" Yes." She stood as if waiting for a more 
luxuriant order ; but as I turned away, she 
did so too. 

Evelyn lay down on her bed, I took pos- 
session of the red sofa. Being accustomed 
to Austrian, Tyrolese, and German waiters, 
we were naturally patient, and let our 
Swedes take their time ; but when a whole 
hour had passed, my longing for tea became 

" Will it never come ? " I cried. 

" I wish you would call for it," said 
Evelyn's languid voice, from the inner room. 
Fortunately there was a bell, and a bell- 
rope. In answer to its summons came a 
different flika; who was an exception to 
the English-speaking household of Mrs. 

She poured forth a flood of soft words, 
not one of which I understood ; and finding 
I did not respond to her eloquence, the non- 
English-speaking Swede came nearer, and 
repeated the same at my ear. 

" She means," said Evelyn, " to tell you 
that the flika who speaks English will come 

" Oh, then, we will wait," I answered, 

EVELYN. 165 

thinking she might as well understand my 
language as I hers ; but in addition I nodded 
my head, and uttered the word, which in 
Swedish signifies good, but looks irreverent 
to our eye — " god." 

She went away, and we waited. 
" How very ridiculous," I said, " it is to 
come to a country without understanding the 
language, though no one thinks of learning 
that of Sweden ; I have been often re- 
minded of the speech of a sweet little fellow 
of four years old, who in his living days, 
which barely exceeded that term, was seized 
with the longing for travel, which I believe 
all such intellectual creatures more or less 

" I should like," he once said, " to travel to 
the moon ; some time one may go there in 
a balloon; but there would be no use in 
going unless I could speak moonish." 

" But, Evelyn, is this ' tea and chops' to 
come at all ? " 

" Pray, ring again; perhaps our good 
English genius is now at hand." 

" But I thought all the household spoke 
English well ;" so with a heavy sigh I rose 
off the sofa and rang again. 

166 EVELYN. 

In, to our joy, came the English-speaking 

" Have you got the tea and cutlets ready ?" 

" Yes." 

" Will you bring them, then, directly ?" 

« Yes." 

We waited again. 

" It is necessary to have patience," said 
Evelyn ; " you know in Sweden it is hard to 
get anything after four o'clock." 

" Yes ; but I would not eat a morsel in 
the boat to-day, because I knew that here, 
where all the household spoke English, we 
could have even what they thought were our 
national whims satisfied." 

" Try to sleep," said Evelyn, still in her 

'* I cannot, I am so hungry." 

I got up, and rang again ; in came the 
grave tall Swede. 

*' We are tired of waiting for this tea and 

" Yes." 

" Is yes the only word of English you can 

" Yes." 

A hearty burst of laughter, much as I dis- 

EVELYN. 167 

like the words, followed the last " yes " we 
extracted from the English-speaking member 
of this English-speaking household. Our 
tea and cutlets, alas ! were somewhere, I 
suppose, in the kingdom of Utopia. We 
were now reduced to the language of signs, 
and by that means, and the help of a few 
words Evelyn had picked up, we convinced 
our grave tall Swede that we wanted food 
and refreshment ; and we obtained — lobsters 
and porter ! The first is a native produc- 
tion, the last an engrafted one ; resulting 
from the speculative energies of Scotchmen, 
who are rivalling, by our potent beverage, 
the much-loved finkel, or fiery corn-spirit of 
the north. Indeed, lobsters and porter, like 
them or not like them, you are sure to be 
treated with as specimens of the gourman- 
dize of Gottenburg. Unhappily, the one I 
never could eat, and the other, could such 
lips as Evelyn's ever imbibe ? — I will not say 
drink, for they tell me that word is vulgar — 
such an act is not to be even suspected ; and 
the fact was, that, leaving a most enormous 
red lobster and great bottle of porter on 
the table, we went out, and got a warm 
bath at the pretty and well-kept establish- 

168 EVELYN. 

ment, also set up by the enterprising emi- 
grants, who, while they love their mountain 
land the fondest, are found more diffusely 
dispersed than perhaps any other people, ex- 
cept the Jews, among all nations. Almost 
everywhere one may trace the Scotch, and 
almost everywhere they are found to prosper, 
in ancient records and in recent times. The 
old slander says, that a turnpike-keeper will 
allow a Scotchman credit if he is going into 
his country, but never if he is leaving it ; 
yet never was the amor patricB more strong, 
scarcely even among the Tyrolese. In Swit- 
zerland the case is the same ; the Swiss love 
their country, and the Swiss we find settled 
and thriving everywhere. 

We returned from the baths tired, but still 
wakeful. I went to my little bed, and lay 
there, thinking of the manner in which some 
persons learn to speak a language ; and of all 
the serious dilemmas to which the faculty of 
saying " yes " only might give rise ; and of 
lobsters and porter, and Scotch enteriDrise, 
and many et ceteras, which kept me half 
awake, half asleep, until a tap came to my 

EVELYN. 169 



A TAP came to my door. In this English- 
speaking house I knew the English words 
" come in " were unavailing, but 1 had some 
idea that the all-answering word " yes " 
would effect the purpose. So I said, 

" Yes." 

And the door opened, and Evelyn walked in. 

The light she carried shone on her pale 
face ; she was wrapped in a loose white dress, 
her hair let down, but not yet " done up " 
for the night. 

" Evelyn ! this is the second time, — the 
third, indeed, I might say, that you have 
appeared to me so spirit-like ! Yet at other 
times you are such an every-day creature ; 
formed to be a household divinity, perhaps, 
but certainly not quite either a ghost or an 

VOL. I. I 

170 EVELYN. 

She held up a warning linger, and passing 
silently on, set down the light on the table, 
and seated herself at its further side. 

" You are like the serpents of the Lao- 
coon," she said ; " you press the life-blood 
from my heart while you twine around it. 
You show me that you understand me ; that 
you know, or feel, what nature meant me to 
be ; and oh ! my own sad heart knows all 
the rest." 

" Yet there is happiness in it still, Evelyn, 
happiness too in store for it." 

" Oh ! yes, yes ! " she cried, her soft 
brilliant eyes half raised ; " yes, yes ! I 
know that. The manner, the time, the 
place, all that is uncertain ; — now, here, or 

" If God places happiness within our 
reach at any time," I answered, " the hearts 
that let it slip will repent it." 

" True," said Evelyn, looking fully at me ; 
" but while I agree in your sentiment, it 
does not, as perhaps you think, affect my 
case. I do not let happiness slip ; others 
may have snatched it from me. But will 
you let me sit with you, and talk a little ? it 
is early, and I cannot sleep : besides, when- 

EVELYN. 171 

ever I am sorrowful, or fancy I have done 
wrong, it is a relief to be near some one, 
or to get any one to blame me but my- 

" Perhaps you think others might do so 
more gently," I remarked. 

" It is very probable : but is it not the 
Dane, Andersen, who says, ' when those 
who smite us are those we love, then do the 
scourges become scorpions ? ' I wanted, how- 
ever, to ask you if you think I was wrong to 
let my poor cousin go on to Stockholm ?" 

" Your cousin, Evelyn ! " 

" I thought I had called him so ; he is 
not exactly a cousin, there is an in-law in 
the case ; but he is my only relative, at 
least the only one I feel to be such ; for 
you know I am an orphan, without brother 
or sister, or any close connection, but this. 
I had another" — she paused, and visibly 

" Before," I said, " I can answer your 
inquiry as to right or wrong, I should know 
what he is going to Stockholm for." 

" To make me his wife," she answered 
quickly, and her full heart heaved. 

I started straight up in the little crib. 
I 2 

1 72 EVELYN. 

" Evelyn ! you promised to be that man's 
wife, and served him so !" 

" No : would to Heaven I had !" A pause 
followed her quick reply. " I utter that 
wish," she said, averting her face, so that 
with the light between us I could not see 
its expression, " because, had I made that 
promise, my present entanglements might 
have been avoided. A promise ought, per- 
haps, to be as binding as the most awful and 
solemn vow." 

" Decidedly so. But is it long since you 
saw this cousin, or cousin-in-law?" 

" It is more than two years. We were 
almost brought up together, not often sepa- 
rated, except when he was at college. Ours, 
unhappily, was a house divided against itself, 
and such we know shall not stand : perhaps 
it was the rancorous feeling that existed 
among the elder generation which caused 
the younger to attach themselves more 
strongly together. 

" Frank, his brother, and myself, were as 
warm friends as our aunts and uncles, fathers 
or mothers, have been unkind or jealous re- 
latives. Our fathers were step-brothers ; we 
both lost our parents in early childhood. I 

EVELYN. 173 

was left to the care of my two maiden aunts, 
and he and his brother to that of their own 

" My guardians were good, plain, pious 
and respectable old maids ; fondly attached 
to each other, and bitterly opposed to their 
sister-in-law. They dressed alike, thought 
alike, acted alike : the very bow at the back 
of their bonnets was cut in the exact same 
fashion : only in one respect did they differ. 
Every Sunday morning and evening they left 
their rooms at the same moment, came down 
stairs together, went out together, and walked 
to a certain street corner together : then one 
went to the right, and the other to the left; 
they had each their favourite church and 
favourite preacher; and my preference for 
either, as a child of eight years old, I well 
recollect being the only subject of jealousy 
respecting me. 

"My step-aunt resided with my step-cousins 
just beyond the village ; it was her bitterness 
against my guardians which provoked theirs 
towards her; whatever was done by them 
would, for that reason, be left undone by 
her, and vice versa. She regarded me, there- 
fore, with a prejudice which I do believe 

174 EVELYN. 

was merely founded in this antipathy to her 
sisters-in-law. Nevertheless Frank, her idol, 
and adopted heir, did not partake in that 
prejudice ; even from infancy I was his dar- 
ling and pet. 

" Excepting these cousins, I had only one 
other companion, and that only for four 
years. This was the young daughter of an 
old Hungarian officer, who was possessed of 
some j)roperty in his native land ; he had 
married an Englishwoman, a lady not re- 
motely allied to our family, whose declining 
health had excited that yearning after a 
native clime which is generally symptomatic 
of death ; she came with her child to visit 
her former friends in our neighbourhood, and 
died there. The old man resolved to leave 
young Bertha to be educated in England, 
and my aunts had her placed with them to 
share in my studies." 

" Pardon me, Evelyn, for interrupting 
you, but there is one thing I do not under- 
stand. You say Frank had a brother, but 
you appear to lose sight of that brother 

" Have I lost sight of him ?" cried Eve- 
lyn, turning her face round to me with an 

EVELYN. 175 

air of almost wildness ; " yes, yes, culpably, 
weakly. But what can I do ? where ought I 
to go ? Oh ! I dare not, could not, go there 

I believe my fixed and wondering regard 
recalled her recollection : she pressed her 
hand on her forehead, and drew her breath. 

" What was I saying? That question 
drew me back from the past to the present ; 
to my every-day thoughts ; reminded me of 
my promise, and all it should involve. But 
you did not mean that ; you inquired about 
previous events ? " 

" I only wanted to know why you did not 
speak of Frank's brother." 

" Frank had a brother," she added, with a 
sigh, ** a beloved and only brother ; we all 
loved him : he was a fine youth, but wild, 
impetuous, incapable of the least self-control. 
He was the elder brother, but only inherited 
his portion of the funded property bequeathed 
by their father ; and Frank's serious studies 
and very contrary disposition always made 
him act the part of a tender and anxious 
parent towards the wild youth, rather 
than that of a younger brother. Finally, 
all I can tell you of him is, that when dear 

176 EVELYN. 

Bertha left us, the poor prodigal gathered 
together the portion of goods that fell to 
him, and went into a far country, where all^ 
worldly, moral, and spiritual good was wasted 
in riotous living. He had a connection at 
Vienna who plunged him into all the dissi- 
pations of that gay capital, and soon with- 
drew him widely apart from the paths of 
piety and peace in which his brother walked. 
His family, however, knew nothing of this ; 
they only understood that he had entered 
into the military service of Hungary. 

" Previous to his departure from among 
us, a great change had occurred in my life. 
My two good aunts had died within a few 
months of each other; the one suddenly, 
the other from the effects of the shock, and 
of grief. They had left me their little pro- 
perty, but I had no protector, or other rela- 
tive, except my step-aunt; she therefore 
received me, and I inhabited the same house 
with Frank. But his guardian never could 
bring herself to believe that I had been 
trained up in the way I should go, simply 
because I had been trained by her sisters-in- 

" One of the misfortunes which pursued 

EVELYN. 177 

me in consequence of this in-lawisra was, 
that my poor aunts, not wishing all their little 
religious, charitable, or other proceedings to 
be talked over by her, had often charged me, 
in my visits to her house, not to mention 
certain small matters, which probably would 
have done no injury if they had not been 
concealed. I was always tenaciously ob- 
servant of a promise, and yet naturally can- 
did and communicative, so that I was fre- 
quently involved in embarrassment when 
questioned as to matters at home ; and the 
result was that my step^aunt was convinced, 
and steadfastly affirmed, that I was brought 
up in habits of secrecy and concealment, and 
that my nature was inclined to the same. 

" She constantly strove to impress that fact 
on the mind of Frank ; and now you see 
what reason 1 can give him to believe it.'' 
Evelyn said these words with the only smile, 
tinctured with bitterness, I ever saw on her 

" This insinuation always rendered me 
highly indignant ; dear Frank, finding his 
efforts to soothe me ineffectual, often changed 
them into reproofs : these had more effect, 
for my respect for him equalled my affection. 
I 3 

178 EVELYN. 

I thought I loved him as I should have 
loved a brother ; I knew no difference in the 

" But one day, when I was just half-way 
through my seventeenth year, my step-aunt 
startled me with an assurance that I had 
formed a secret engagement with Frank. 

" Her health was failing; she was irrit- 
able and easily excited ; I had then but 
little self-control, — I was a creature of im- 
pulse and feeling, yet I feared to produce 
one of the paroxysms to which she was sub- 
ject. I burst from her room, and ran out 
to the field where I had seen Frank medi- 
tating among the newly-cut grass. The idea 
she suggested had never before occurred to 
my mind; I never stopped to consider the 
propriety of imparting it to him ; I had 
thought of neither love nor marriage. I 
viewed the charge as simply one of conceal- 
ment, and with flashing eyes I stood before 
my cousin, and called upon him to vindicate 
my sincerity, and convince his aunt that no 
engagement existed. 

" Frank looked earnestly at me ; then, 
with his own grave smile, taking my hand, 
he made me sit beside him, and said. 

EVELYN. 179 

" ' I cannot do that with truth, Evelyn ; 
you, I fear, dear girl, could do so ; but the 
heart may have formed an engagement 
while the lips have made none. Yet will I 
never demand a promise, Evelyn, until I can 
also demand a wife.' He looked into my 
eyes, and for the first time in our lives they 
were cast down from his. His aunt had 
done what she was anxious to prevent ; what 
had been a vague dream became a real fact, 
to a young untutored mind. I felt then I 
was loved, and my heart for the first time 
told me I loved with another love from what 
I had hitherto thought. 

" We sat long there, in that pleasant 
field, and we did not talk of love, or hint 
at any future ; but while dear Frank's arm 
held me to his side, I am sure that in silence 
we both owned that our hearts had made an 
engagement — a betrothal, that never should 
be broken. Yet no w^ord was spoken, no 
promise asked or given ; all, except that 
sense of deep and present happiness, was 
forgotten. My friend, this was all the en- 
gagement that has ever subsisted between 
the man you saw at Trollhiittan and myself. 

" Very soon afterwards I w^as sent to Ger- 

180 EVELYN. 

many, about six months afterwards ; Frank's 
college term was then nearly over. His 
aunt, who had travelled in Germany and 
Italy in her younger days, thought it was 
advisable I should do so too. My friend 
Bertha, who had returned to her old father, 
had been anxious to see me ; but an ex- 
pedition to Hungary appeared formidable. 
My step-aunt — I call her so still, for I never 
called her my aunt in the lifetime of my 
others — had, for a few years past, been fond 
of talking of her ' sister the countess ; ' and 
to this sister, then residing at Vienna, she 
determined to send me. A family, going 
from London there, offered to take charge of 
me ; I was furnished with the address of the 
countess, and dejjarted with my friends just 
before Frank arrived from Oxford to find 
me gone. An inexperienced girl as I was, 
I met a sensible shock on reaching the place 
of my destination. We had loitered nearly 
four months in Germany. I found my poor 
aunt on her death-bed, speechless. I was 
told dear Bertha had just married, and was 
with her father and husband in Hungary. 
Her former governess, the old lady who died 
at Ystad, was there, the friend of my poor 

EVELYN. 181 

aunt. As soon as my aunt was dead I wrote 
to inform Bertha of my arrival, and set out 
with that good woman for her abode, little 
suspecting what was there to befal me. 
We spent some time happily together ; then 
an awful change came on ; but of all that 
I am unable — may till the end of my life be 
unable — to speak." 

" And I am bound not to ask ; but, Evelyn, 
is your step-cousin still unable to demand 
either a promise or a wife ? " 

" No ; I told you he was going to Stock- 
holm to seek for both. The very day I first 
saw you in the Djurgard, I had had a letter 
to that effect, and had answered it in a way 
to give him room to believe that my senti- 
ments, at least as regards matrimony, had 
changed, and that I now inclined to a con- 
vent life. Don't shake your head : I was not 
quite insincere ; that very evening when you 
first found me musing on the rock, such a 
retreat was the subject of my contemplation. 
I was thinking Frank would regret me ; 
but would gradually get over the pain of his 
loss ; whereas, if he were to know all that I 
know, a cloud would rest upon his life for 
ever. I do not think I could be happy in a 

182 EVELYN. 

convent, consistently with my own religious 
convictions ; and I have, besides, an impera- 
tive duty to perform, one I have solemnly 
promised to endeavour at least to perform, and 
which could not be fulfilled, I believe, in a 
cloister. My perplexity chiefly arises from 
not knowing how to place myself in circum- 
stances to fulfil the work T have undertaken. 
Throughout the severe winter which I have 
spent in Sweden, I have been nearly cut off 
from all communication with any world but 
that of Stockholm. Reviving spring only 
brought reviving anxieties ; for I felt I 
ought to do something, to take some steps, 
towards the attainment of my object, which 
there I could not take. I have a cor- 
respondent who occasionally gives me some 
tidings respecting the object of my solici- 
tude. That correspondent is a priest. I 
have felt certain that I ought to go to Rome, 
and hearing that you were going there, I 
thought that Providence might indicate my 
way. I wished to tell you something of 
myself; but what I have said is not satis- 
factory. Darkness, however, may yet be 
light. I do not wish to accuse the step-aunt 
I spoke of : — and poor Frank ! it was of him 

EVELYN. 183 

only I wished to speak ; it is so miserable 
to think of him now, passing over these 
strange lakes ; going on such a strange jour- 
ney, to be so cruelly disappointed. Ah ! if 
he could know that I saw him ; saw him, 
and let him pass on ! " 

" You want me, I think, to tell you if 
you were wrong," I said ; " but how is it 
possible for me to judge of your conduct 
when I have not the least clue to the mo- 
tives that actuate it ? When persons live in 
constant intercourse, it is difficult, while one 
is bound to secrecy, for the other not to 
overstep the limits of discretion, through 
the desire of affording consolation or guid- 

" I understand you," she replied ; " it is 
my weakness only that brings me to you. 
What you say is true, but what would it be 
if those persons were united indissolubly, in 
a state where every thought must be under- 
stood, every feeling shared ?" 

" That maxim has been stretched too far 
by some persons, Evelyn, who have deemed 
it a sin for a man to keep a secret from his 
wife, or a wife to conceal any sentiment from 
her husband." 

184 EVELYN. 

" I have been tauglit to think so ; and 
therefore I could not confide aught that 
burdened my mind to a clergyman of our 

I fancied I had now got some clue to her 
avoidance of the cousin-in-law. 

" Do you not then approve of the clergy 
marrying?" I said. 

" I have never thought about it," she re- 
plied, "nor does it affect this question, so 
long as confession is not admitted in the 

" The two institutions are closely united^ 
it is true ; for I remember a story of a Rus- 
sian priest, who was banislied to Siberia for 
revealing the secrets of the confessional to 
his wife. However, all that I wanted to 
know was, whether any question of a religious 
nature interfered to prevent your union with 
this clerical relative?" 

•' Of a religious nature ? oh yes ! most 
religious !" she answered ; " but if you mean 
any question of ordinances, or institutions, 
any question disputed by churches, oh no ! 
nothing save the question of truth before 
God ; save that I must try to fulfil a sacred 

EVELYN. 185 

" Well, Evelyn," I said, after a good, long 
silence, " I really can give you no opinion ; 
I cannot tell you if you were right or 
wrong to let that singularly interesting-look- 
ing young man steam on his lonely way to 
Stockholm, while the object of his mission 
took hers in the contrary direction ; all I 
can say is, that I should not have done so 
had it been my case." 

" What would you have done ? " she 

" I should have run to meet him, and 
been just as glad to see him as he was to 
see me." 

The dove's breast felt to touch my cheek : 
it was Evelyn's that was pressed to it. 

" Oh ! how gladly would I have done 
so !" she whispered ; and I felt a tear on that 
soft cheek. 

" Evelyn," I said, " I have promised to 
ask no questions ; but this one, if you mw, 
answer me this once and for ever. Do you 
conceal guilt?" 

She stood straight up, and looked into my 

" Guilt !" she repeated, and shuddered ; 
" guilt," — and again she looked doubtfully at 

186 EVELYN. 

me ; " if you mean the guilt of others, yes ; 
if you mean my own," — she fell down on her 
knees beside the bed, threw back her head, 
and added, " God, who has seen fit to try 
me more than such a creature might appear 
able, without his grace, to bear, knows that 
there is not an action of my short life, how- 
ever worthless in his sight, which I would 
shrink from having upholded to the eyes 
of the world." 

The fair head dropped down on the 
coverlet, and the full heart gave way in 

Evelyn rose, took the candle, and was 
leaving the room. From the door she looked 
back to me, and the face was Guide's por- 
trait ; the head turned over the shoulder, 
the white robe, the colourless cheeks, the 
red lips and eyelids, even the tear beneath 
them — that young, innocent look of sorrow. 

" Evelyn, dear girl, forgive me," I cried, 
extending my hand. She ran back, and 
threw herself sobbing on my neck. 

" Oh ! why did I not think of this before ! 
suspect in the least what you might imagine ; 
how kindly, how nobly, you have acted !" 

Some more words, not necessary here to 

EVELYN. 187 

introduce, followed; Evelyn closed them 
with another pressure of her downy cheek, 
and we repeated the words of Oscar and 

" Farvall ; god natt ;" which is almost as 
plain English as " farewell; good night." But 
were either of us wiser than when the con- 
versation began ? 

* * * * 

The next morning the kindness of one of 
the kindest merchants of Gottenburg, to 
whom I happened to have a letter of recom- 
mendation, came to our relief; and by his 
negotiation we obtained a breakfast in the 
English-speaking household of Mrs. Todd. 

We went out with him afterwards to see 
the town, as he also informed us that the 
packet from Christiana to Copenhagen called 
at Gottenburg the next day, and we could 
not depart sooner. We had time therefore 
to look over the first commercial city of 
Sweden, and that which is second to Stock- 
holm in amount of population. 

The foundation of the town, which owes 
its origin to Gustavus Adolphus, is laid 
on piles. The houses, built of stone, re- 
semble in general those of Germany ; they 

188 EVELYN. 

are massive and lofty, and have the under 
floors uninhabited, on account of the cold. 

A great many canals, formed by means of 
the river, run through the town, and are 
crossed by stone bridges, high, and very much 
arched, to allow the passage of boats ; they 
are the most antique, primitive-looking 
bridges I ever saw, though Gottenburg is 
not the most antique town. 
■ The business and shipping department is 
quite unlike the higher and more fashionable 
quarter, where many British merchants re- 
side ; there is an English church and chap- 
lain, but no bodily physician here for the 

Mr. S., our amiable Scottish merchant, 
conducted us up the granite heights on 
which stands the castle, which in former 
times, when Denmark frowned across the 
Kattegat at her then oppressed neighbour, 
and noAv powerful ally, was used as the 
citadel of Gottenburg. 

From here we had a fine view of the 
country. It presented a varied, yet rather 
tame panorama ; grey granitic ridges were 
but little enlivened by valleys of beauty 
or richness ; yet the pretty villas of the 

EVELYN. 189 

mercliants, the river, which could be seen for 
miles covered with laden barges, and the 
vast piles of wood, in which its merchants so 
largely trade, piled all along the banks, gave 
it an animated and picturesque aspect, which 
was considerably heightened by the effect of 
the coloured cottages. 

Some of these wooden tenements are of 
brilliant red, others yellow, green, blue, or 
deep pink. The picturesqueness of effect is, 
in my opinion, increased by having the 
frames of the windows, which are numerous, 
and large in proportion to the size of the 
houses, painted a different colour : thus the 
red houses have green or white window- 
frames and doors ; the green, red or white ; 
the yellow, green, and so on. 

The projecting roofs, with very low eaves, 
are formed to protect the walls from the 
inclemency of the weather ; they are covered 
with red tiles, but these are not glazed as in 

The effect of these houses is to my taste 
pleasing and fanciful ; and to a utilitarian, I 
think they must be unexceptionable, as the 
owner of a coloured house would, in a Swe- 
dish winter, more readily find his home 

190 EVELYN. 

than one who possessed a whitewashed 

In this land of stone and granite, wooden 
houses, of the minor sort, are almost uni- 
versal. The labour and expense of cutting 
the hard stone render its abundance almost 
unavailing to the poorer classes, and they 
say, that besides the advantage which wood 
possesses from its plentifulness, it is also 
warmer in winter and cooler in summer. 

" Do you think," said Evelyn, to Mr. S., 
" that the women of Sweden, I mean the 
peasants, are so pretty, as the German and 
some French writers seem to think ? " 

" I never have seen here a native face so 
beautiful as one from our own good land," he 
answered, looking at her with a smile. " But 
in sterling value, that is to say, if the value of 
human creatures be rated, like that of others, 
at the amount of labour they can perform, or 
of service they can endure, or j)rofit they can 
produce, I believe this female peasantry 
might rival the factory-girls of England ; 
and they, too, possess a gift not vouchsafed 
to those poor girls, — that of longevity. 

" Look at the old creature who has come 
in sight so a propos ; she is, to my knowledge, 

EVELYN. 191 

eighty years old :" he pointed to a brown- 
skinned, white-haired, strange-looking crea- 
ture, who was carrying up the steep ascent 
a burden I could not have moved. 

" Wonderful ! " we exclaimed ; but soon 
afterwards we saw a gentler, if not a feebler 
animal even than woman, hard at work. 
Sheep, poor, timid, lazy things, are here to 
be seen harnessed in small carts. 

" Do you recollect the absurd description," 
said Evelyn to me, " we read in Marmier's 
' Lettres du Nord,' of a young Swede, with 
legs, arms, and shoulders bare, her fair hair 
flowing in ringlets over the latter, going to 
work in the fields, and like Ruth, to find a 
bridegroom among the reapers ? We have not 
seen a Swedish Ruth yet." 

"Oh!" said Mr. S , "never mind a 

Frenchman's descrif)tions ; if he does not 
travel scientifically, he will do so senti- 
mentally. I say nothing against the display 
of the legs and arms, however; yet surely, 
in such a demi-toilette, the fair Ruths of 
Sweden do not look very unlike those of 
Scotland, — I will not say Ireland, for the 
Swedes are almost alwavs clean." 

192 EVELYN. 

This is nationality, I thought, for surely 
the Scots are not always so. 

The beggars of Gdttenburg are as abun- 
dant as in most parts of the world. Such is 
usually the case in seaports : but one sight 
we beheld there made us believe that real 
poverty existed. A cart loaded with sacks 
of dried peas was passing along a road im- 
mensely deep with dust ; some of the peas 
were spilled, and in an instant, like a swoop 
of crows, the spot was covered and crowded 
with really decently attired people, boys and 
girls, men and women, eagerly picking up a 
few grains with a handful of dust. In 
Stockholm there is not a beggar to be 
seen ; and even here you are not struck by 
the same miserable aspects which our great 
towns present, where wealth and wretched- 
ness congregate together. 

We spent a pleasant evening with Mr. 

S , his charming wife, and fine little 

boys ; left them with some faint hope that 
they should hear of us again, and embarked 
the next day in the packet that calls at 
Gottenburg on its way from Christiana. 

There was a young, white-haired, white- 

EVELYN. 193 

faced, and white-hatted German on board, 
who said he spoke " Engleesch ; " he came 
up to us, and said, 

" It is no shoke to cross the Katte- 

And truly no joke, or shoke, according to 
a vulgarism metamorphosed, did we find it. 
The Kattegat is as cross-grained as its name 
appears to imply. 

What a scene we had on board ! I never 
thought la maladie de tiier, — for disguised in 
French that one phrase is less appalling, — I 
never did think it could look beautiful ; but 
the " sea-change," usually so horrible, really 
appeared in Evelyn to be 

••• Into something rare and strange." 

She lay on a couch without a sign or breath 
of life ; she was like the statue on the tomb, 
which shows the loveliness of life and the 
repose of death without any other cha- 
racteristic of either. It was in fact just the 
statue of the fair queen of Prussia, by Ranch, 
at Potsdam, only with Evelyn's bright hair 
showered over it in all its living radiancy. 

Poor thing, to see her thus calmly subju- 
gated by that cross, conflicting channel, I 

VOL. I. K 

194 EVELYN. 

could not help repeating, with a selfish groan, 
" It is no shoke to cross the Kattegat." 

" But here we are in calm water. Evelyn 
arise, and look at the Sound." 

The wind fell, and the glorious scene broke 
on our view under the brilliancy of the even- 
ing sun. There was a Russian fleet of fine 
men-of-war, and there was the flag of, I be- 
lieve, every nation of earth that sends a vessel 
on the sea. " There go the merchantmen 
bringing goods from afar, and there are the 
sailors whose cry is in the ships ;" and peace, 
blessed peace, spread her own white flag over 
all, and the varied colours that fluttered side 
by side in the breeze told that the pruning- 
hook had supplanted the sword. Alas ! for 
how long ? The rumbling of the earthquake 
that was to heave the kingdoms of Europe 
was only then distantly beginning. 

Did any English traveller ever pass the 
Sound or visit Elsineur without talking of 
sweet Caroline Matilda, and of Prince 
Hamlet ? 

It is so pleasant to be exceptions to a 
general rule, that though I was at Cronberg 
and Marienburg, I will not say a word about 
them. The story of the sister of oiir good 

EVELYN. 195 

George III. is just like an eastern tale, 
where we hear of a cruel mother-in-law and 
jealous husband shutting up a fair girl in 
such a great tower ; and though this was 
a mere political cabal, it is interesting to 
think of the young wife and queen of Den- 
mark writing on her palace window with a 
diamond, " God keep me innocent ; make 
others great." 

" What," said Evelyn, " promise not to 
say a word, and say all that." 

" I have done," I replied ; and lo ! as I 
spoke, we stopped at the pier of Copen- 

The broad-shouldered, blue -eyed, red- 
cheeked Holsteiner, who took charge of our 
baggage for the form of inspection, came up 
to the solemn-looking official with a laugh 
on his broad face, and one of its articles in 
his hands, which appeared the most sus- 

Never did a Holsteiner appear less like a 
discontented subject ; and little did I then 
imagine, although I heard complaints which 
I did not understand, about Schleswig and 
Holstein, that we should soon hear so much of 
the duchy of which our porter was a native. 
K 2 

196 EVELYN. 

It was simply what is called in England a 
milliner's basket, which he had got hold of; 
I had adopted it as a bonnet-box on account 
of its lightness and portability. With that 
knowing laugh, he clapped it down before 
the revenue officer, and shook his great 
head, making a Danish speech, of which the 
only word that was familiar to me sounded 
like " hen." The officer scrutinized me 
over his spectacles ; but the Holsteiner's 
droll expression enlightened me more, and 
I recollected that the octroi system is in 
practice here, and a toll is levied on all eat- 
able goods brought into the capital of Den- 
mark ; therefore, reasoning from analogy, 
and thinking of German and English, I made 
no doubt but that the word which sounded 
like " hen" signified " fowl," and that my 
bonnet-basket was considered to contain 
these creatures. 

I took hold of the leaf of the bonnet which 
was on my head, and in a mixture of unin- 
telligible language, said, laughing, in answer, 
at the Holstein porter, " Nei, nei, das ist 

nicht hen, das ist " and unable to finish, 

I shook the leaf of my bonnet at the eyes 
that were peering over the spectacles. 



"What on earth do you mean?" said 
Evelyn, who stood leaning on my arm, wait- 
ing to see the end. 

" They think I carry fowl in that basket, 
and they are going to open it, in hope of 
levying a toll for the king of Denmark ; but 
it is duty free, containing only my bonnet 
and caps." 

" Why do you not speak German ? they 
will understand it." 

" I spoke a little German, a little Swe- 
dish, and a word of English, and they have 
understood all, with the help of that sym- 
bolic language which is known everywhere." 

It was so, for the great jocund Holsteiner 
laughed, and the grave official gave a Jupiter- 
like nod ; and my basket and myself, with 
Evelyn and sundries, were deposited in the 
droskies, and with due stateliness of motion, 
conveyed to the Hotel d'Angleterre. 

I always wish to avoid h6tels d'Angleterre; 
but they told us the landlord spoke French, 
and I believe it is a very excellent hotel 

The landlord, as usual, ran out to receive 
us ; we were duly installed : finding our way 
to our rooms through numerous tall house- 

198 EVELYN. 

maids, carrying buckets of water, brooms 
and mops. Such insignia of office appear to 
be seldom dispensed with in Denmark. 

"How much we have to see here!" I 
cried, putting my giddy head, still swimming 
with the Kattegat, to rest on the sofa. 
" How delightful to ramble through Copen- 
hagen, to see all Denmark, to explore the 
Danish islands V 

" How long do you intend to stay here?" 
Evelyn demanded in a voice full of appre- 

" Ah ! you do not then wish to stop in 
" Oh no ! but "— 

Evelyn stopped ; but her face, full of an 
affectionate fearfulness, the innocent expres- 
sion of the rounded lips, told me more plainly 
than her words, what it was she meant. She 
feared a similar occurrence to what had 
taken place at Trollhattan, and it was not 
likely that from another such she could 
escape in the same manner. 
" You zviil go on, Evelyn?" 
" I must ; I never thought of asking you 
if you intended to stop long en route." 

" True ; we should have arranged that 

EVELYN. 199 

point. For your own sake, I should like to 
stop here ; but for mine, merely, I will not. 
I shall come back for a winter to Stock- 
holm, and will leave Copenhagen now when- 
ever you please. But to morrow is Sunday ; 
you will not travel then V 

" Decidedly not." 

I was disappointed at this abrupt de- 
parture ; but to make the best of a bad case 
was all that could be done ; and, as a present 
means of doing so, I went to bed, and slept 
till the water-buckets, brooms, and mops in 
the passage next my room awoke me in the 

200 EVELYN. 



When will our world become sufficiently 
enlightened to allow countries, capitals, 
towns, and rivers to be called everywhere 
as their own respective geographies name 
them ? A party of English, who wanted to 
see Ratisbon, passed it by, because they were 
told they were at Regensburg, and did not 
recognise the native name. Surely, on 
seeing the written name in Danish of Kjo- 
benhavn, we too might have gone on looking 
in vain for a Copenhagen. Why should not 
London be London, and Munich be Miin- 
chen, all over the world? If all Europe 
were to break out into a revolution, I should 
propose this reform to the president of the 
grand republic. 

The date of my paper made me think of 
this, for I wished to write Kjobenhavn, but 

EVELYN. 201 

it looked pedantic, when every one else says 

" God morgen min Froken," I said to 
Evelyn : " What will you do to day V 

" Go to church, I suppose." 

" But where?" 

" To the church of the embassy, I con- 

" You do not then follow the usual travel- 
ling plan of going anywhere but to one's 
native worship ? " 

" No ; I shall be too happy to hear again 
our beautiful Liturgy in the tongue wherein 
I was born." 

We set out for the church of the British 
embassy, attended by a French-speaking 
commissionaire^ a good old man, who ap- 
peared to remember "the misfortune," as 
he called the bombardment of the capital 
by the English ; and as he delicately pointed 
out to us from the ramparts which afford 
splendid points of view, the damages too 
wantonly eifected by our arms, he also 
called it le feu, with a glance that said. Do 
you understand the term ? That sore spot 
will long remain on Danish history; and amid 
K 3 

202 EVELYN. 

all the glories of our Nelson's epoch, we might 
be content to have had it omitted. 

We took a circuitous route to church, in 
order to see as much as we could of the 

" There," said our commissionaire, " is Vor 
Frue Kirke." 

I forgot all else, but that we were at Our 
Lady's Church ; and darting up the steps, I 
entered the portico, and got inside the doors 
without even looking at Evelyn, who was 
thus obliged to come in too. 

I would not have seen that sight more 
premeditatedly : it burst upon me with a sud- 
denness which rendered it more distinct to 
my after-vision. The congregation were at 
])rayers : the minister at the altar appeared 
looked down on by the colossal statue of 
Christ ; while the twelve apostles, in their 
respective niches, placed round the simple 
oblong building, appear in like manner to 
regard the worshippers. The effect alto- 
gether of Thorwaldsen's works was certainly 
heightened by being thus beheld ; although I 
fully feel how wrong it is to enter a church 
during the time of service merely to admire ; 
still more to condemn. 

EVELYN. 203 

When I saw this church, therefore, the 
next morning, I could examine, but at this 
moment I could only feel. 

When the church was empty, I could 
lament, perhaps with bad taste, that the 
figure of our blessed Lord was of such co- 
lossal and rather Odin-like dimensions ; but 
the subject is one I never like to see de- 
picted in any form. 

The eifect of the kneeling angel, holding 
the baptismal font, when seen in the midst 
of the worshippers, was most beautiful. It 
is an exquisite work of art : and the charm- 
ing bas-relief of the child walking forth into 
life, with his guardian angel's hand extended 
over his head, is at once the embodiment of 
a poetic conception and a divine verity. 

The first impression the Frue Kirke made 
on me was, that the building was too small 
for the size and number of the statues and 
bas-reliefs, with which the great sculptor, 
the son of Iceland, by blood, though not by 
birth, adorned this favourite church of his 
native capital, when it was to be rebuilt 
after having been nearly demolished by 
English cannon at the time of le feu. But, 
with becoming taste, all other adornment has 

204 EVELYN. 

been omitted, and its elegant proportions 
may have the effect of rendering its apparent 
size, like that of the mighty St. Peter's, less 
at first sight than the reality. 

Thorwaldsen, from a sentiment not quite 
in accordance with a Christian tone of mind, 
formed his own tomb, to be placed in the 
centre of the museum which his country was 
raising as the depository of his works and 
the monument of his fame. There he rests ;" 
but until that museum was completed, his 
coffin lay in this church ; a black curtain 
screened the dust of the artist, while his art 
appeared to live before us. The crown 
prince, now king of Denmark, was his chief 

" A sudden death," said Evelyn, as we 
walked on to our church, " appears to me an 
enviable one ; if we can indeed drop off this 
mortal to be clothed witli immortality ; slip 
away gently from the corruptible to put on 
the incorruptible. But who would wish to 
die like Thorwaldsen, at a theatre ?" 

We entered the English church. 

Oh ! reader, I have not often apostrophized 
you, because while I write you are to me a 
veiy imaginative personage, perhaps never 

EVELYN. 205 

to become a real one ; but if ever a reader 
has been put off with that most impotent 
conclusion — " it is left to his imagination," — 
then, will such a person pardon me for 
begging the help of imagination to accom- 
pany us from the chaste and beautiful Frue 
Kirke of Lutheran Copenhagen, into the 
place which represents, I suppose, the church 
of England in Denmark, just as our ambas- 
sador there represents her government. 

A cold, cheerless, neglected place ; with a 
floor of uneven flags, a rude painted pulpit, 
and sundry brown square boxes, with one 
person in one such box, and another in an- 
other ; a man standing with arms in an angle, 
resting on the sides, and an open book in his 
hand ; a few women of decent appearance, 
probably from the seamen's quarter, but not 
one of what are termed " the better classes," 
men or women, though I think one table 
dli6te would furnish more English than there 
were in the church. The regular chaplain, 
I believe, was absent, and no trace of " the 
Embassy" was present. 

Certainly, on the continent, our spiritual 
power does not share in much of the pomp 
and expenditure bestowed on the temporal. 

206 EVELYN. 

Copenhagen is not the only place in Europe 
where our ecclesiastical dignity contrasts 
rather painfully with our secular representa- 

It was in returning from this most de- 
pressing church that we walked on the ram- 
parts, and saw how agreeably they are laid 
out for the convenience and enjoyment of 
the citizens ; but here our guide, after re- 
garding us with a glance that said, " Do not 
be angry, but T hate you on Sir Parker's 
account," as he called Sir Hyde, would again 
and again show traces of " the misfortune," 
until we began to think that as in our Anglo- 
Saxon Liturgy the clause was once inserted, 
" From the attacks of the Northmen, good 
Lord deliver us," the Danes might have 
returned the compliment, or reversed the 
prayer. In the interesting cemetery for the 
deceased of the Danish navy, there is an 
obelisk something like that which stands on 
the heights of Toulouse, where a cruel battle 
was fought, when cause for battle was no 
more. At Toulouse the obelisk bears the 
inscription, " To the brave, who died for 
the country." In the naval cemetery of 
Copenhagen, the obelisk says, " They fell 

EVELYN. 207 

for their country. April 2, 1801." Round 
that column clusters the hardy oak and 
sturdy pine ; the granite blocks around bear 
the warriors' names, — meeter and more in- 
spiring memorial than the hidden and stately 
monument which an abbey or cathedral 
may enclose to a single Leader's memory, 
while those he led pass unnoticed, and for 
affording a sight of which the amor patrice is 
manifested by the demand of a fee ! 

We drove down a pleasant road ; the 
Sound, with the cold, bleak, scraggy coast of 
Sweden, was at one side, and on the other 
the famous beech-woods of Denmark, pretty 
villas and most agreeable paysage. 

In the water we saw the memorable isle 
of Hveen, where Tycho Brahe spent twenty 
years in his " city of heavens," or Uranien- 
borg, and expended, it is said, a ton of gold 
in his establishment, where he kept open 
house for philosophers, nobles, and princes ; 
was visited by that singular personage 
James I., of England ; and created as much 
wonder and suspicion among the supersti- 
tious people, by the gold and silver nose 
which he wore, instead of the natural one 
he had lost in a duel, as he did by his mid- 

208 EVELYN. 

night commerce with the skies ; his spectral 
automatons with which he delighted to 
frighten them, and his invisible bells, by 
which he could summon any student he pre- 
tended to call for. 

Dangerous pranks were these for a man to 
play who lived before his age. Whether any 
age will come after this strange one of ours 
we know not ; but no one now lives before 
his age. 

Poor Tycho ! it was the physicians, and 
not the priests, who feared his craft ; for he 
cured diseases by astrology ; and so he was 
persecuted and impoverished, and driven to 
Prague, where, welcomed and honoured, he 
lived, died, and was buried. And now of 
the great astronomer's city of the heavens, 
an old traveller has recorded this pithy ob- 
servation, " There is on the island a field 
where Uranienborg was." 

Then we went to the Dyrhave, answering 
to our fondly-remembered Djurgard, or deer- 
park ; a noble forest, where the great annual 
fair is held, where all sorts and conditions of 
men mingle together without constraint or 
annoyance. Here is a pleasant royal lodge 
named the Hermitage, but rather misnamed. 

EVELYN. 209 

especially under the aspect it presents on a 
fine Sunday afternoon. 

Then we went into the grounds of Sorgen- 
frie, — or Sans-Souci, or Free-from-Care. But 
our wish, amongst all these royal residences, 
was to get into the grounds of Frederiksberg, 
and there accordingly we went, seeing that 
splendid avenue of chestnut-trees, where the 
wealthier of the citizens have villas, and 
all classes love to have a cup of tea, or some- 
thing else, in the so-called tea-gardens. 

The Danes make the most of their sum- 
mer, as well as the Swedes ; and rightly so, 
if it be true that previous to the famous 
peace of Roeskilde, Charles X. brought his 
Swedes, baggage, artillery ^i horses and-rail; 
over both theGreat and Little Belt, on the ice. 

If such may be the winter, who would not 
make use of the summer? There is a pro- 
found moral in the remark, for the benefit 
of all who discover it. 

All continental Protestants — I do not 
speak of the Neologists of Germany, but of 
those who, I really believe, cling to their re- 
formed religion — spend the evening of Sun- 
day in recreation. In the morning and at mid- 
day the churches are crowded ; the sacrament 

210 EVELYN. 

administered, not to a few out of a congrega- 
tion, while the rest walk out of the church, 
but to the entire ; and the rest of the day is 
only made a Sabbath from toil. There is, on 
all holiday occasions, nothing that the trading 
and lower classes, and even the higher 
ones too, among the citizens of Copenhagen, 
enjoy more than a supper or tea in some of 
the many royal parks which render its en- 
virons so agreeable. 

The accommodation there afforded to 
them, the liberty they have to make use 
of them, is something quite wonderful to 
natives of England. Booths, tents, all sorts 
of things, are there to offer them refresh- 
ment ; but none of the more vulgar amuse- 
ments, which may be seen in some of the 
approaches to these pleasant resorts, are 
allowed access to the royal domains. 

The feudal institutions, which, with all 
this apparent liberty, inflicted a species of 
slavery on the lower classes, were only 
abrogated by the late king. His present 
majesty is called " The friend of the people." 
May the title be preserved, for in it is the 
safety of monarchs, and the welfare of a 

EVELYN. 211 

" But there," I cried, — breaking off a dis- 
course which, though to save time and space 
I do not put it in the form of question 
and answer, had nearly that character, — 
" what would our notions of English liberty 
say to that spectacle?" It was a gang of 
malefactors working in chains (not on Sun- 
day, however), with a soldier standing sen- 
tinel over them. 

" I have often heard or read the same 
remark from English travellers," said Eve- 
lyn, smiling. " Such sights are indeed un- 
pleasing to refined eyes, and it is marvellous 
hoAV well England contrives to keep hers 
averted from them. But do our colonists 
forget that the masses they see are as truly 
British subjects?" 

" Ah ! it is only in our little country, and 
not in our kingdom," I replied, " that such 
sights could not be tolerated. I did not 
think of that before. But there are a great 
many things in England one does not well 
understand. We are, beyond doubt, the 
greatest, and richest, and wisest nation in 
the world. All foreigners, I am told, admire 
our noble institutions, our great charities, 
our magnificent workhouses ! But how is it 

212 EVELYN. 

that here, no more than in Stockholm, not 
a beggar is seen in the streets ? and yet they 
are not suppressed by policemen. The ap- 
palling contrast of misery and magnificence 
does not strike the passer by as it does in 
London ; and still more horribly in Dublin, 
where a tax on carriages and horses would 
be one of the most merciful acts ever passed 
by our legislature." 

" You forget," said Evelyn, " when you 
gallop on in this manner, drawing your con- 
clusions only from what strikes your eye — in 
the first place, the different subdivision of 
landed property, the more improAed con- 
dition of the agricultural labourer, and above 
all, the superior mode of education. Then, 
as to Copenhagen, the population is about 
half as much as the town of Liverpool, one 
hundred and twenty-seven thousand, I think ; 
and it certainly holds out no such attrac- 
tions to the needy or speculative as our own 
awful metropolis does. 

" That the state of the poor in England, 
and the moral and social condition of its 
hard-working classes, appear to us much 
more cruel than those of the good Danes 
we now see, I readily admit. We see them 

EVELYN. 213 

in the unrestricted enjoyment of these noble 
domains, revelling quietly in pure air and 
delicious scenery ; and so far as our great 
towns are concerned, we must feel how much 
more likely the minds of the lower orders 
are to be elevated and refined by such a 
liberty, than are those of people who, like the 
poor denizens of London, are enclosed in 
that murky atmosphere ; spending their even- 
ing or Sunday hours in those dreadful dens, 
which I believe in no other country in the 
world but Christian England, are legally and 
nationally made the only places of recreation 
for the working classes ; shut during the 
hours of service, but allowed to be open at 
other times, in a land which in general de- 
precates any innovation on the strictness of 
the Sabbath observance. There is a strange 
prejudice in the English mind against allow- 
ing the people any intellectual amusements." 

" The people of England have little taste 
for such," I remarked. 

" How can they, when they are rarely 
formed, and seldom can be exercised ? There 
is little open to them. They are excluded 
from all resorts of the higher orders : if 
payment forms the right of admission, it is 

214 EVELYN. 

purposely made high to attain that end. We 
feel satisfied that it is so, because the people 
of England do not know how to behave in 
public. Their only notions of independence 
lead to gross and rude behaviour ; they never 
have been taught to feel any right in public 
property ; and when they have the oppor- 
tunity, they generally take a brutal sort of 
pleasure in injuring what they imagine was 
only intended for the luxurious and great." 

" You remind me," I said, " of a notice I 
read in the pleasant promenade of Metz, 
that great garrison town of France : ' The 
Prefect invites the inhabitants to assist him 
in the preservation of these walks and flow- 
ers, designed for their gratification.' In our 
language this would read, ' Trespassers will 
be prosecuted according to law.' 

" But perhaps you have been too long 
absent from our great metropolis to be 
aware of a delightful fact ; namely, that the 
National Museum is open to tout le monde^ and 
that the people take advantage of the pri- 
vilege. We shall soon see there what is com- 
monly seen at the Louvre, — soldiers spend- 
ing their idle moments in copying sculpture. 
Yes, believe me, it would be almost worth 

EVELYN. 215 

while to come on earth again fifty years 
hence. You, to be sure, may not then have 
left it ; your threescore years and ten will 
be only just about completed ; but I should 
so like to see, or at least to hear, what a dif- 
ferent England there will be. 

" We have already an artist-prince, and 
we have an open museum : this latter is one 
fait accompli. It actually did my heart good 
to feel myself there among a group of ragged 
urchins ; though a lady did tell me she would 
not enter it now for fear of having her 
pocket picked. Such accidents, it is true, 
may happen ; but the character of a people 
will be modified by the advantages offered 
to them, or the trust reposed in them : the 
idle ragamuffins who may loiter through the 
British Museum, are forming, insensibly, 
material for the intellect of another genera- 
tion. It is worth while to have patience 
with the present ; and besides this good mo- 
tive, the naive remarks one hears on works 
of art are, in my opinion, quite as excellent 
as learned criticisms. Par e^emple: just 
after the great opium war with China was 
brought to a glorious end, I was looking at 
the Etruscan vases in our museum, when 

216 EVELYN. 

two respectably attired women came in, and 
one said to the other, ' What are all these 
jars for, I wonder?' 

" ' Oh,' said her companion, who seemed 
to act as valet de place, ' I know ; these are 
things that were taken in. the China war. 
Don't you see they are all china?'" 

" I suppose," said Evelyn, " you want to 
prove that the good woman's children, or 
children's children, will know the distinction 
between a China jar and an Etruscan vase?" 

" Saucy ! But, Evelyn, seriously, as to 
education, do not they say in England that 
it is the hope of the country ? " 

" We are certainly wise people if we can 
settle the education question," she answered, 
smiling, "and perhaps even you^' — 

" Silly as I appear to be, would smile at 
your presumption if you propounded your 
ideas ; now is not that just what you would 
have said if you had spoken out? " 

" Well ! my idea is, that the question of 
education in England is as much embar- 
rassed as that of the poverty of the many. 
I mean that, as matters are at present con- 
stituted, the same cause appears to rise up 
as an obstacle to redress or improvement, — 

EVELYN. 217 

the increase of population. If we are to 
have a religious people, we ought to have a 
church education ; how can that be, when 
the church establishment is not only in- 
sufficient for the demands upon it, but when 
its existing state is so utterly disproportioned 
to that of the times, that it has become, in 
many districts, a mere nominal power, to be 
referred to in certain acts, births, mar- 
riages, deaths, for registries, and so forth ; 
while the real, individual, and spiritual 
power, for which it was originally consti- 
tuted, is, it may be said, almost totally lost ? 
The pastoral office is lost in the ministerial : 
the best of the working clergy feel that it is 
so : what can be the individual influence of 
one, or even two men, over a charge of twenty 
or thirty thousand souls ? Not to speak of 
the frightful fact, that one rector or vicar 
may be appointed as the spiritual overseer 
of two hundred and fifty thousand, or per- 
haps nearly double that number, so that 
a rector or vicar more resembles a bishop 
than a curate of souls : and this is not be- 
cause the population is really too great, but 
because modifications in the existing state 
of things have never been made to meet it, 

VOL. I. L 

218 EVELYN. 

Parishes remain as they were constituted 
when the population amounted perhaps to 
one-tenth, or one-twentieth of its present 
number. Liverpool, formerly a hamlet, is 
still one parish ; Manchester, the second city 
in England, with a population of four hun- 
dred thousand, is still one parish. To meet 
this ' enormous anomaly ' in a professedly 
Christian land, district churches have been 
called into existence, which have produced 
another lamentable feature in our once ex- 
cellent system, by placing the clergymen of 
these churches almost on a level with the 
dissenting minister, making him more or 
less dependent on ' the sittings ' for his 
payment ; thus keeping up that painful prac- 
tice of caste, even within the walls of the 
churches ; as well as producing the more 
obvious evils and painful consequences which 
must result from such a false position. The 
only part which the clergy can now be sup- 
posed to take in the actual education or 
training of their people, is by an occasional 
inspection of their national schools ; by 
opening the Sunday school perha])s with 
prayer ; or by ' giving an address ' to the 
children. The work that ought to belong 

EVELYN. 219 

to them is made over to Sunday school 
teachers or district visitors ; and the people, 
too generally, know little more of their 
church than what the actual sight of the 
building informs them of ; namely, that such 
a place exists, and that if they belong to it, 
they ought to go there on Sundays." 

" How very odd it is," I said, " to find 
minds running on in small separate rills, each 
quite unobserved, or considered to be a dis- 
agreeable sort of puddle, Avliich has become 
muddy by taking some tortuous track, until 
they all meet in the broad open stream of 
' public opinion ;' and then all the obstruc- 
tions they have encountered at once give 
way, the hostile few are won over by de- 
grees, or taken by a coup de main, and 
join the amalgamating mass. Then there is 
an end of the matter, whatever it be. The 
thing must be done. Why ? Because every 
one says so. Now, do you know, Evelyn, 
that I, too, have been thinking of these 
things, but I was afraid to speak of them, 
because people would say I was a schismatic, 
or a Jesuit in disguise." 

Evelyn laughed. " Well," said she, " I 
fear they will not alter their opinion because 

220 EVELYN. 

my sentiments coincide with yours. But 
Jesuit though you may be, let me tell you 
that I would never j^resume to argue on 
subjects certainly out of a woman's pro- 
vince, and mine especially, if " — 

" If what, Evelyn ? Dear ! how you 

" Ah, Jesuit!" she cried, raising a finger, 
while she yet turned the tell-tale cheek 
aside. " But since you will know the truth, 
I have only been saying what I have often 
heard from one of the clergy I spoke of." 

" The step-cousin ? Well, go on : let me 
have all his opinions, even second-hand." 

" All his opinions," said Evelyn, looking 
gravely in my face, " are not made known 
to me ; but I have often heard him lament 
that the office of pastor is now, in the church 
of England, almost superseded by that of 
what is called the ' minister,' and that when 
persons have what they consider a good and 
useful preacher to give them two or three able 
sermons weekly, they are well content with 
the spiritual advantages of their own lot ; 
and seldom reflect on the enormous amount 
of loss, of want, if not of actual evil, which 
is produced to the mass of the population, 

EVELYX. 221 

who are totally deprived of the advantages 
which are possessed by them even in this 
respect. Now, since I have been in the north, 
I have observed the advantages which result 
from the strict carrying out of the parochial 
system, the more, because in Denmark, Swe- 
den, and Norway" — 

" Oh, Evelyn ! would you barter the spi- 
ritual blessings which England enjoys for 
any, or all, which these three lands can 

" Pardon me. I meant not to speak of 
spiritual blessings ; or, if I may use such a 
phrase, I did not speak of internal religion. 
I alluded only to the externals, which are 
aids, or means, to producing national reli- 
gion. There is, I believe, in England, both 
among the clergy and the better instructed 
portion of the laity, an amount of real and 
active religion which far surpasses that of 
any other country in the world. But there 
is also a frightful amount of utter godlessness, 
of indifference, or of profane irreverence 
among the people, which very nearly borders 
on infidelity. Were the object of the church 
of England only to save a few of the elite of 
society, who could afford to enjoy a luxurious 

222 EVELYN. 

seat in a chiircb, and might occasionally 
receive the visits of their minister in their 
houses, it were indeed well to leave it as it \ 
is ; but if its object be to instruct, to raise, 
to restore, or purify each individual of the 
land, then it were well to make the means . 
in some degree proportionate to the end. j 

" This can only be done by the revival of 
the parochial system ; by restoring pastoral 
influence, and insisting on pastoral instruc- 
tion ; by dividing and subdividing enor- 
mous parishes, and dividing and subdividing 
enormous clerical labour. It was to this 
only I alluded, when I spoke of the Lutheran 
church of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway ; 
because there the pastoral office is strictly 
maintained; and without it, what would '^ 
these countries be? The church, indeed,} 
may be dependent on the state, but the state 
is surely, in great degree, dependent on the 
church ; because the formation of the minds 
and characters of the people is greatly in- 
trusted to the clergy. 

" Religious surveillance is there a part of 
the law. Not only is the secular education 
of children obligatory at every village school 
provided for them, and not only are Latin 

EVELYN. 223 

schools, at the most moderate charges, acces- 
sible to the youth of Denmark, but the 
highest instruction, that which concerns the 
immortal part of our being, is secured by 
the law which makes it incumbent, nearly in 
the same manner as in Sweden, on every 
subject to obtain from his pastor a certificate 
of confirmation ; as a document much more 
necessary than a baptismal register is with 
us, since, without it, men are not eligible to 
certain offices, and without it, neither man 
nor woman can be married ; so that you see 
there are even temporal inducements to 
obtain it. And for that purpose young per- 
sons have all to undergo six months' exami- 
nation from the clergymen of their parishes : 
this alone affords to every individual in these 
lands, high and low, such instruction in 
the doctrines and observances of their 
church, as I fear can never be derived from 
the merely ministerial offices which the in- 
adequate number of subordinate clergy 
renders practicable in our church, or from 
the irregular efforts of what is termed 
' lay agency.' 

" Were there a subordinate order of 
clergy, whose chief work should be the 

224 EVELYN. 

care of education, spiritual instruction, and 
religious training, and who by performing 
certain offices, or being able to read the 
Liturgy in churches, might allow us to have 
the daily service performed in them, no 
matter how few were the worshippers, we 
might hope yet to see England really become, 
what, alas ! only a portion of its good or 
great ones now enable it professedly to be — 
a religious land. Would that we might see 
this change ! — see the parishes, the offices, 
the clergy of our church, both divided and 
multiplied ;* the parishes smaller, the clergy 
more numerous, the services shorter and 
more frequent ; each little flock brought 

* Since Evelyn uttered this wish at Copenhagen, 
Lord Ashley has expressed a somewhat similar one in 
the English Parliament ; and while I revise the proofs 
of this work (then never intended to be written), a 
petition from the clergy of Manchester, on nearly the 
same subject, has appeared in the papers. Thus are 
the " rills of mind " flowing on in similar channels, yet 
unconnected with each other. Soon shall we see them 
conjoined in the broad stream of public opinion, which 
those alone who are opposed to the interests and influ- 
ence of the church of England will continue to oppose. 
Then will such thoughts as those of my gentle Evelyn 
be no longer deemed visionary or speculative. 

EVELYN. 225 

again under its own modest pastor, who 
would be the instructor of their faith, the 
almoner of their bounty, the reliever of their 
wants, their warning, advising, reproving, or 
consoling friend ; a now nearly godless mul- 
titude, who too often know not even the 
name of their clergyman, receiving with re- 
vived reverence the instruction of their 
church ; while its beautiful services, instead 
of being so lengthy, in consequence of 
making three services into one, were 
more frequent, and consequently less con- 

" You must become a parson's spouse, 
Evelyn ; then you may have excellent oppor- 
tunities for stirring up the church reform 
you seem to desire, for I believe whatever is 
to be done must be done by what are em- 
phatically called the working clergy ; they 
hold in relation to the church just the same 
position that the people do in respect to the 

" We shall become would-be politicians 
if we go on in this manner ; so to change 
the conversation, which has crept from the 
virtues of Denmark to the wants of Eng- 
land, let me remind you that there is one 


feature in the financial department of this 
country which must strike you as admir- 

"And what is that?" 

" Poor little Denmark, which you have 
heard Germans a hundred times say ought 
not to be a separate kingdom, allots twenty 
thousand two hundred and twenty pounds to 
the advancement of science and literature ; 
and one thousand six hundred and sixty-six 
pounds to paying the travelling expenses 
of young artists and men of genius, like 
Thorwaldsen and Andersen, both of whom 
were sent to Rome ; where you know the 
former, after a long struggle, was brought 
into notice by an Englishman : thus Den- 
mark gives her literary and scientific sons 
their first push, launches them on the sea of 
life with an oar to begin the struggle ; and 
if, like Thorwaldsen, they mount its waves 
triumphantly, welcomes them back with 
open arms." 

" And her daughters," I said, " what of 
them ?" 

" Oh ! women have no right to possess 
genius. Poor things ! if such an accident of 
nature befal them, they are more to be 



pitied than blamed. But in rich and liberal 
England, I have known literary women as 
well as men to receive handsome pensions." 

" I really do not know how that was 
managed, Evelyn ; for some one told me the 
literary pension-list only amounted to one 
thousand two hundred pounds a year ; but 
then the civil list, you know, in other re- 
spects is heavy. Some time ago I think I 
read in some speech in the House, that six- 
teen thousand pounds a year went to the 
Poles ; but now I believe the sum is really 
only seven thousand eight hundred pounds." 

" To the Poles !" cried Evelyn, with a 

" Yes. I do not mean that the govern- 
ment sends that annual sum on voyages of 
discovery ; but to the Polish refugees. And 
then, besides that, it keeps them in medicine 
and doctors, in case the change of climate 
or manner of life should make them ill. I 
wish I could pretend to be a Polish coun- 
tess in disguise, and have my doctor paid 
from the treasury, and get a pension for 
living in England. But what is the matter, 
Evelyn ? My wish has made you grow pale 
as death." 

228 EVELYN. 

It was the words " Polish countess " that 
had caused her to tremble ; but averting her 
face, she murmured, as if considering my 
former piece of information, 

" Only seven thousand eight hundred a 
year ! and our poor — our broken-hearted 
men of genius and literature, our struggling 
artists !" 

" Ah ! that is quite another question : 
how could England either pay the poor for 
doing nothing, or pay the whole herd who 
in this day come forth to swell the ranks 
you name ? No, no ; if people cannot live by 
writing or by art, they should live by some- 
thing else ; women especially." 

" But if they have nothing else to live 
by. In England they are excluded from 
many departments they can fill in other 
countries ; and surely the trade of govern- 
esses is most frightfully overdone. If a 
woman, therefore, possess talent, and use 
it as a woman should, why should not the 
talent be recognised, more especially on ac- 
count of the difficulties which belong to her 

" Would you have a poor authoresses' 
institution," I said, laughing, " as well as a 

EVELYN. 229 

governesses' ? But do you not feel, as well 
as know, that there is a deep, indelible dis- 
grace attached to those who live hy literature 
or art, instead of living for either ? The 
rich man may receive both money and a 
bow from his publisher, because he wants 
fame alone ; but the poor author, to whom 
fame is best represented in the tangible 
form of a banker's cheque, may be invited 
to ' divide the profits.' I never met the 
man or woman yet who did not feel shame 
in confessing they were ' dependent on their 
writings for support ;' and I believe there is 
no other trade or profession of which this 
could be averred. And therefore it is na- 
tural that this feeling should extend to the 
government, and to the patrons of art and 
literature ; and the claims of such persons be 
regarded with something like a contempt 
that is not shown to the poor and hard- 
working of other orders. But what on 
earth has all this to do with the Poles ? 
There was such an eclat about them ; and 
to see them dancing, for their annual benefit, 
was so interesting. Then they are all 
princes or counts ; — un comte sans comte is 
general now. My hatred, too, to that great 

230 EVELYN. 

monster, Russia, led me to admire the brave 
people who tried to evade its great jaws." 

Evelyn looked at me earnestly. 

" Poor, degraded wanderers !" she said, or 
almost sighed. 

" You do not mean what you say, sure- 

" I do, now. Time was when I shared 
in all the enthusiasm that could be felt for 
the cause of Poland and its brave patriots. 
Still I feel the same for its cause ; alas ! for 
the fate of its exiles ! There were brave 
and high minds among them, doubtless ; but 
what a vile alloy of mean, sordid, dangerous, 
wicked adventurers ! Such every revolution 
is the cause of transmitting to other lands, 
to push a fortune there which could not be 
made at home ; and often to prosecute plans, 
to which generous sympathy and unsuspect- 
ing confidence give too easy scope." 

Did Evelyn speak thus from experience ? 
I fancied she did so, and asked if she had 
been intimately acquainted with the people 
alluded to. 

" Not with many," she replied. " The 
Poles now excite little attention or interest ; 
and there are some of the proscribed living 

EVELYN. 231 

under the strict government of Austria. In 
the castles of the Hungarian nobility I have 
known some." 

" I have always thought them," I said, 
" in many respects, a noble race, although I 
believe that term can never fully apply 
where a nation is divided into the classes of 
lords and serfs ; the lords of Poland, who 
hate their Russian and Austrian devourers, 
are also hated by their serfs : but as to the 
Polish exiles, with the exception of those to 
whom the beneficence of governments, which 
disburse as munificently with one hand as 
they withhold tenaciously with the other, 
and of those who, combined with a liberal 
pension, enjoy the benefits of Enghsh trade, 
I can well imagine what the lives of men 
may be, separated from ties of home and 
country ; reduced to struggle for daily bread, 
without one of those restraints which, in the 
absence of all higher principle, would bind a 
native subject to seek it lawfully, if not 
honourably. In such cases we must expect 
that the course of moral degradation will 
become deeper. The brave, dashing Poles, 
who were so captivating in Paris some years 
ago, and who, while accompanied with much 

232 EVELYN. 

that was spurious, excited no little en- 
thusiasm in England, are become like a 
thrice-told tale now ; and nations begin to 
open their eyes, and wonder why, if their 
own people must starve, or languish in toil 
and disappointment, foreigners must be fed 
and supported." 

" And how," said Evelyn, " such a man as 
poor Gerald Griffin might go for three days 
without food while experiencing 

" how hard it is to climb 
The steep where Fame's proud temple shines afar ;" 

and how many others, men and women, too, 
have to feel that their talents and their 
genius go unnoticed and unrewarded ; until, 
in old age, the pittance, that might, if earlier 
accorded, have given scope to their talents, 
by saving them from writing to meet the 
exigencies of the moment, is at last vouch- 
safed just to gild their tomb, or tell the 
world that such a one, on his, or her, dying 
bed, met the bounty that might some years 
sooner have saved their lives," 

" But you forget," I said, " how this pretty 
tirade militates against the theory of over- 
population in England. If that theory be 

EVELYN. 233 

true, surely it is more patriotic to let poor 
authors die than to pay them, as well as the 
Poles, to live. Demnark is not so over- 
stocked with population, and so she thought 
it more politic to save her poor Andersen, 
one, now, of her best known and best re- 
ceived authors. A friend, he tells us, said 
to him, ' Your misfortune is, that you have 
been obliged to print every thing ; the public 
has been able to follow you step by step. I 
believe even a Goethe himself must have 
suffered the same fate if he had been in your 

" But Denmark gave her lowly son a pen- 
sion, and lent him wings to climb ; in Eng- 
land it would have been more politic or 
patriotic to have let him die, and to have 
pensioned his widow or his child." 

" Andersen has, I believe, neither wife nor 
child," said Evelyn, looking at me very 
gravely, "and sometimes you would make 
one think you were almost satirical, if we 
did not know that satire from you might be 
as natural as snow at midsummer." 

" Indeed," I replied, " we have been so 
ramblino^ hither and thither in our discourse, 
that I, for my part, do not recollect a word 

234 EVELYN. 

of it. What was it brought on all this dis- 
quisition? It would be curious to trace it 
back now : but somehow I have an idea that 
when Thorwaldsen designed his beautiful 
' Childhood's Aid/ he meant rather to signify 
by the guardian angel, the temporal power 
which first sent the poor neglected ship-car- 
penter's son forth into the world to study his 
noble art in the land where art has been 
perfected. To the first friends and in- 
structors of our childhood we feel a love and 
gratitude that no others claim. Thus when 
installed in apartments of the royal palace 
of Charlottenburg, when loaded with honours 
and riches, perhaps Thorwaldsen remembered 
with more affection the mite bestowed by his 
maternal government which paid his travel- 
ling expenses to Rome. In the seamen's 
quarter of Copenhagen, the sailors have made 
the poor Icelander's son a sort of divinity, 
and take the dates of his age, birth, and 
death, as their fortunate numbers in the lot- 
tery which is so much in use in that town." 

EVELYN. 235 


RoESKiLDE. Slagelse. Nyeborg. Hamburg. 

I HAVE been at a loss for a date, and at 
last given a pretty long one. We are going 
to start for the old town of King Roe, called 
Roeskilde, or Roe's Well, because they say 
King Roe had a favourite Avell at that place, 
whose waters, if they still exist, may be 
easily more abundant and salubrious than 
those of Copenhagen. 

There are few things more provoking than 
to leave a place of which you know just 
enough to make you wish to stay and know 
more; and yet there are few things more 
delightful than to do so. We leave it with 
all the delight of inexperience, and with a 
sort of young love which urges you ever to 
return and pursue its sequel. What is half 
seen is, they say, always most thought of. 

I had time to take another peep at Vor 

236 EVELYN. 

Frue Kirke ; to admire most what has there- 
fore left the most impression on my memory, 
" The kneeling Angel," " Childhood's Aid," 
and " St. James with his Palmer's hat/' I 
did not know till afterwards that Thor- 
waldsen himself preferred the latter to the 
other statues. Then there was a rapid 
glance over the Museum of Northern Anti- 
quities ; alas ! only a glance at that most 
interesting collection of Scandinavian relics ! 
Here also we find evidences of the quiet 
pastoral surveillance which the Lutheran 
clergy exercise in Denmark ; for, to the 
pastor of every parish throughout the king- 
dom is intrusted the care of forwarding to 
this national and royal collection, M^here a 
liberal price is paid for them, every remnant 
of the past which is discovered in his dis- 

Amid the strange and interesting relics of 
Scandinavia, how dreadful was it thus to 
hurry ! An Icelandic almanac is the only 
thing clearly impressed on my memory ; it is 
such a thing as may easily remain there. 
You cannot well forget that a goose stands 
for " Michaelmas term," though some of the 
symbols are, to my fancy, less explanative ; 

EVELYN. 237 

for instance, a hatchet for the sweet season 
of spring. In such a manner, for about 
nine hundred years past, have the calendars 
of Iceland been kept. Merely strips of 
wood, carved Mith emblematic signs, to de- 
note the months and seasons of the year. 
Wonderful Iceland ! rude, yet most literate 
land ; contrarieties as great as a land of ice, 
mountains of fire, and fountains of boiling 
water, seem generated in the genius of its 

But adieu to Copenhagen, and its museums 
and palaces : I have seen and known enough 
to make me long to see and know more : 
and there is no use in talking about what I 
have neither seen nor known. 

" So come, Evelyn," I said, " if we are to 
go, we may as well start at once ; but let 
us go across the Great Belt, that I may try 
if it will realize the idea I had of it, when 
I used, in my blessed childhood, to repeat 
something about it in ' Guy's Geography.' " 

So we settled to go by land to Korsor, 
and thence across the Belt to Nyeborg, in 
the island of Funen. 

I had already seen, in going to Stock- 
holm, the Danish Switzerland ; that is to say, 

238 EVELYN. 

the pretty island of Moen, where the highest 
Alp is rather more in elevation than four 
hundred and fifty feet above the sea, but 
where beauty and loveliness appear unim- 
paired by the fairy size of the romantic 
cliffs. It is a charming place for a summer 
ramble, and the Danes adore it ; but as I 
had to post on with Evelyn, I preferred a 
route I had not yet traversed. 

The railroad was open to Roeskilde, the 
ancient caj^ital of Denmark, now memorable 
for its peace. It was the ancient bishop of 
Roeskilde who built, A. D. 1168, the first 
fortifications that surrounded Kjobenhavn, 
or the Merchant's Haven, then a fishing 
hamlet, and afterwards sold by him to the 
king of Denmark. 

The railroad goes on to Slagelse, but we 
preferred travelling in an open drosky, hav- 
ing with us our good commissionai7'e, whom 
we took as a " tolk," which to our ear is a 
significant Swedish term for interpreter. 

In the old brick cathedral of Roeskilde, 
which was completed in the eleventh cen- 
tury, is the tomb of the Scandinavian heroine 
who united Denmark, Sweden, and Norway 
into one kingdom, — Queen Margaret, and a 

EVELYN. 239 

vast number of other Danish sovereigns are 
interred in this catliedraL But, at the an- 
cient church of Ringstead Abbey, a little 
further on our route, rests, they say, the 
dust of the memorable Canute the Great. 

A part of our road to Slagelse was most 
lovely. On the bank of the charming lake 
of Soro, stands the fine conventual-looking 
academy, once a rich Bernardino abbey, a 
seat of learning as well as wealth, where 
lived and wrote the ancient historian of 
Scandinavia, Saxo Grammaticus, and which 
was transformed at the transforming era of 
the Reformation into a school for the youth 
of Denmark. 

A school for the nobles was added by the 
good and great Christian IV. ; and in this 
academy, not very long ago, the young no- 
bility were by law kept distinct and separated 
from the other students. But now all such 
distinctions are abrogated : the Danish pea- 
sant is a free man, and his voice can be 
raised in the interests of his country, as well 
as that of the noble. 

As we came up before this sweet lake, its 
quiet woods, and academic abodes, Evelyn's 
admiration was excited. 

240 EVELYN. 

" How peacefully miglit life flow on here !" 
she said. " Look at those charming cottages 
on the bank." 

" The professors live there," our tolk 
remarked. " The great Holberg, who wrote 
our plays and history, was one of them, and 
left the academy all his fortune." 

" Ah ! do you recollect the few lines that 
pleased me so in Hans Andersen's rather 
disappointing ' Story of Life,' about sailing 
on a lake with a poet, who had an ^olian 
harp fastened to the mast ? Surely it was of 
this very Soro he spoke." 

" So it was. I paid no attention to the 
locality at the moment, but now I recollect 
it perfectly ; it was Professor Ingerman's life 
which he said appeared to him at Soro like 
a beautiful story." 

" What a sweet situation for a convent," 
said Evelyn ; " the repose of these national 
beech-woods, the stillness of that soft lake." 

" Yes ; but study and repose may be as 
much enjoyed here now," I added, " as when 
this academy was a wealthy and learned 

" And without an irrevocable doom," she 
replied, " which is all that is truly repugnant 

EVELYN. 241 

to me in convent life, so far as temporal 
matters are concerned. But was this same 
building a monastery ? " 

" No ; the original one was burnt down, 
and only this old church of the Bernardines 
remains of all their establishment, and in it 
Holberg kept himself a tomb in exchange 
for the fortune he left it. 

" The monastery, I think, was built in the 
thirteenth century, by that same devout 
Asser Rig, who, when he was departing for 
the wars, while his wife boped soon to pre- 
sent him with an heir, made her promise 
that if she became the living mother of a 
living child, she would build a church of 
thanksgiving for him during his absence. If 
the child were a boy, the church was to have 
a tower, and a spire on the tower ; but if a 
girl, the tower was to be omitted, and a 
simple spire only erected. 

" The worthy dame, to reward her lord's 
devotion, brought two fine boys safely into 
the world. This was a case unprovided for 
by his directions : but a woman's wit and 
mother's gratitude pointed out her proceed- 
ings, and she built the church with two 
towers and two spires." 


242 EVELYN. 

We saw tlie tomb of one of these famous 
tM'ins in the old church, that of Bishop 
Absalon, who became the first statesman of 
his country ; and without let or hinderance 
we arrived at Slagelse. 

Having fixed our time of arrival at Kor- 
sor, so as to make the passage of the Belt in 
accordance with the arrival of the steamer 
at Nyeborg, we found we had a couple of 
hours to spare, and chose to spend them at 

We went for a ramble up the height 
which is named Hvilehoi, the meaning of 
which in our interpretation is, the Hill of 
Rest ; so called, because on the top of that 
hill, Holy Anders, a monk of the convent 
that once was in the adjacent wood, and the 
patron saint of Slagelse even now, when 
patrons are quite out of fashion, was found 
reposing after having travelled in his sleep 
from Jerusalem on the back of an ass, 

" The story looks like a fable, but no one 
can ever prove it to be so ; and other people 
at Slagelse will tell you more fully than 
Andersen has done, how Holy Anders Avent 
on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem with a goodly 
number of the devout, and how that when 

EVELYN. 243 

the vessel (not a steamboat I suppose) was 
ready to sail from the Holy City, after some 
geographical chart of its own devising, 
Anders could not depart without a last 
prayer in the Holy Sepulchre. 

" The vessel in consequence sailed from 
Jerusalem without him. Anders, finding 
it gone, was walking disconsolately on the 
shore, M'hen an old man, riding on an ass, 
came up, and inquired the cause of his grief. 
Anders told him that his last prayer had 
lost him his passage to Denmark. 

" The old man told him to mount behind 
him : he did so ; fell asleep, and was awoke 
by the people of Slagelse on the Hill of Rest. 
He found the vessel had not yet arrived 
from Jerusalem ; and apparently it had a 
toilsome tug, for it did not come for two 
years after Holy Anders's quiet passage. 

" After this time the prayers of the good 
monk were attended by other circumstances 
of wonder ; for whenever he wished to per- 
form his devotions out of doors, he hung his 
hat and gloves on the sunbeams, a favourite 
sort of hand-rail with saints, for the same 
memorial is found in the legends of Ireland." 

" If the sunbeams were so complacent," 
M 2 

244 EVELYN. 

said Evelyn, " why did they not allow him to 
dispense entirely with these memorials of a 
fallen state?" 

" That would be dispensing with the 
miracle : a miracle is never negative. Holy 
Anders, too, obtained for the town of Sla- 
gelse a grant of land, in a manner more mar- 
vellous and decent, than that by which Queen 
Godiva served the people of Coventry. 

" King Waldemar tauntingly agreed to 
give them as much as Holy Anders could ride 
round on a new-born foal. The Saint mounted, 
and set off as comfortably and speedily as 
he had travelled from Jerusalem. It was 
so ordained that the king was in his bath, 
and no other orders could stop the galloping 
foal, or its rider. In this predicament the 
least danger was preferred, and the ministers 
broke in on his majesty's retirement, entreat- 
ing him to come forth on the instant and 
stop the new-born foal, before Holy Anders 
liad galloped round the whole island of 
Zealand, and won it in perpetuity for his 
good town of Slagelse." 

From the top of Hvilehoi, there is a 
fine view of the opposite coast of Funen ; 

EVELYN. 245 

and on that shore our commissionaire told us 
a strange battle had taken place in the last 
war, about the time that the fire, or mis- 
fortune, occurred at Copenhagen, under the 
command of our gallant Nelson and Sir H. 

A battle which had something in it truly 
horrible, akin to the legends of the north, 
was about that time fought on the sands of 
Funen. It was a battle of war-horses with- 
out riders. 

The Spanish troops, having been detached 
from the service of Napoleon, were taken on 
board our fleet, but their cavalry horses 
could not be accommodated, and at the mo- 
ment of embarkation were left behind on 
the beach. The fury of men possessed the 
animals ; they knew, they felt, they were 
deserted and betrayed ; that no longer they 
should "rejoice in their strength, going on to 
meet the armed men, when they mocked at 
fear, and wereno^ affrighted ; neither turned 
back from the sword, the quiver that rattled 
against them ; the glittering spear and the 
shield. When they swallowed the ground 
with fierceness and rage, and smelled the 

246 EVELYN. 

battle afar off; the thunder of the captains 
and the shouting." The captains had deserted 
them, and the horses made the battle among 
themselves, imitated their Spanish masters, 
and fought with wild fury against each other. 
A strange spectacle to the trembling natives, 
then menaced by two rival hosts, who ap- 
pear to have let the horses fight out their 
own quarrel, until nearly all the sanguinary 
steeds were slain. A few exhausted and 
wounded survivors were taken prisoners, 
and it would seem made peace, and even 
intermarried with the natives of the isle, as 
they say their descendants are to be traced 
in a peculiarly fine breed of horses now 

" But if Madame will be in time at Nye- 
borg for the boat, it is necessary to set off 
for Korsor," said our Dane, who, I fancy, had 
picked up his French in his boyhood from 
Napoleon's soldiers ; he was an old and poor 
man, and it required to be very far from 
France to believe that he spoke that lan- 

" Allans ; en route,'' was my reply, as with 
a deep sigh I rose up, from reclining near 

EVELYN. 247 

the cross which marks the spot where Holy 
Anders was laid down ; — " farvel to Hvile- 
hoi, and soon, farvel, also, with sincere re- 
gret, to Denmark, which, if it can remain 
at peace, will surely now arise from its long 

248 EVELYN. 



I WONDER if that great man of old, Char- 
lemagne, who was found sitting in regal state 
in Aix-la-Chapelle, with the crown on his 
fleshless brow, the sceptre in his bony 
grasp, the sword by his loose robes of state, 
and the Gospels on his skeleton knee, could 
exercise the attributes as well as retain the 
mocking semblance of life, what he would 
now think of the city for commerce he 
founded in his rude and wonderful age ? — a 
merchant city of palaces ; " her merchants are 
princes." Hamburg, like the phoenix, has 
started gloriously from her ashes. That 
awful conflagration, which ruined so many of 
its inhabitants, has not a little added to its 
magnificent aspect. 

I never had seen Hamburg before, and 
never saw a place which proved so totally 

EVELYN. 249 

unlike what my prejudices had imagined. 
It is a place of trade and transit, and there- 
fore I had kept away from it. 

After seeing such great commercial towns 
as Liverpool, Manchester, or Bristol, one 
imagines that the wealth of such a splendid 
place as Hamburg must vastly exceed that 
of our own dingy but monied towns. There 
is so much lightness and beauty in modern 
Hamburg; the Maiden's Walk, or Jung- 
fernstieg, with all its afternoon animation, 
contrasts strikingly with our gaunt, gloomy 
docks at Liverpool ; though in sterling great- 
ness, of course, we eclipse all others : and 
those pretty flower-girls, with their pic- 
turesque costume and captivating air, would 
lead one to forget the dark counting-houses 
and sombre faces which the art of money- 
making produces here as well as everywhere 

However, the Poste Restante was the most 
attractive place to me in that fine city of 
Hamburg, which bears on its very aspect the 
declaration, that a German will no more 
permit his business to interfere with his 
recreation than he will allow his recreation 
to interfere with his business. 
M 3 

250 EVELYN. 

What an important spot is the Poste 
Restante ! My heart was not left long to 
palpitate : two newly-arrived letters ; one 
from England, one from Stockholm. Fru 
P. wrote the latter. 

When I had read both, I thought over 
their contents, altogether in relation to 
Evelyn and her circumstances, although one 
of them only concerned her. In these rather 
random records of my journeyings, no one 
can fully understand how much my feelings, 
I might say affections, had become interested 
in that fair girl. I had of course been more 
in contact with her heart and mind than 
these pages have ever developed. 

I thought her a sensitive, tender-hearted 
girl, possessed of intellect and information, 
but totally wanting in that clear judgment 
and iron will which enable persons to triumph 
over circumstances of difficulty, or even to 
bend them to their advantage ; and only liable 
to suffer acutely from a too scrupulous con- 
science, if involved in the unjust meshes 
woven by others, or too likely to fall a sacri- 
fice to what her unselfish heart considered 
to be the good of another. I had formed a 

EVELYN. 251 

gloomy suspicion that she would immolate 
herself within a convent. 

But the letter of Fru P. was full of the 
step-cousin, whose arrival at Stockholm, and 
visit to the baroness, had occasioned no little 
wonder and admiration. A very wise friend 
of mine once included in his rules for epis- 
tolary correspondence this item, "Do not 
place a letter before the inspection of a third 
person unless desired to do so." The con- 
tents, therefore, of Fru P.'s letter shall re- 
main for the present poste restante. But in 
one respect they changed my sentiments 
respecting Evelyn ; that is, they made me 
regret having yielded to her wish and left 
Copenhagen so speedily. Had we delayed a 
little, this impressive step-cousin might have 
overtaken us there. 

Now, however, we were in the first sea- 
port of Germany, the free city of Hamburg, 
and here a decision must be made. Evelyn, 
I said to myself, must go to England. Not 
for worlds would I be in any way an acces- 
sory to the unhappiness which this singular 
avoidance of the man, who, from Fru P.'s 
account, loves her so deeply, and whom, 
from her own involuntary concessions, or 

252 EVELYN. 

unconscious admissions, it is easy to see is 
the sole object of her love. What folly it is 
in people to be thus always chasing happi- 
ness out of each other's paths. It is bad 
enough to read such stupid or silly blunders 
in a novel ; but in e very-day life, in the dry 
details of a journey, to be mixed up with 
such nonsense is too bad. Evelyn must go 
back to England, and be a good parson's 
wife. She may be very useful there, may be 
the means of having a model church, and — 
but before the addition was made I was at 
her door, and her voice bade me enter. 
Evelyn was reclining on the couch. She 
started up when I said I had had letters, 
and uttered an anxious 

" Well ! " 

" One is from England, from my sister ; I 
am not wanted there, and am even advised, 
as I am abroad, to stay, and spend the win- 
ter, as I wash, in Italy. Abroad,, you know, 
is a generic term, which scarcely implies re- 
flection on the space between Stockholm 
and Rome." 

"And you will stay !" she cried, clasping 
her hands with a look of joy that brightened 
her whole face. 

EVELYN. 253 

" I have had a letter from Fru P., also, 

" Tidings of him ! speak!" But as she 
uttered the impatient command, she turned 
her head aside, and hid it on the back of 
the sofa we sat on. 

There was a silence after I had com- 
municated what I thought I might and 
should communicate of the tidings, regrets, 
and speculations of the good Fru. 

" Noble Oscar !" said Evelyn at last ; " so 
he told poor Frank that my rejection of 
himself arose from no prior attachment, but 
from a firm resolve against marriage ? " 

" He has concealed nothing from your 
cousin, apparently. But you know you gave 
the young baron that reason for your refusal ; 
at least, I believe it was the only one he was 
likely to understand." 

" True," said Evelyn, looking earnestly 
up into my face ; " but if you should not 
marry the only man you ever would marry, 
might you not say it was unlikely you could 
marry ? " 

" I fear one's brains might be puzzled 
among the shoulds, woulds, or coulds," I 
answered, " and a decision made between 

254 EVELYN. 

the two last;" and as a laughing reply 
often leads to a familiar question, my speech 
was inadvertently continued by one. 

" But, Evelyn, will you tell me why you 
should not marry this captivating step-cousin 
of whom Fru P. raves ? " 

A little to my surprise, she sprang up 
from her seat beside me; a paleness, even 
to her lips, overspread her face : she lifted 
up her hand, and I thought of the soft 
midnight sun of Sweden, when I saw her 
thus dread an approach to a questioner. 

" I have broken my engagement," I said ; 
" I ought not to have asked that question." 
But before I could apologize further, her 
mood was changed, and sitting down again 
she said, 

" Yes, I will answer that question. I 
cannot marry him, because I am solemnly 
bound not to reveal to him the fatal secret 
which burdens my heart. The possession of 
that secret has thus blighted my life ; its 
betrayal would render his miserable : yet he 
has been brought up in abhorrence of 
concealment. Can you not perceive that 
on every side unhappiness would await 

I could not say I did; for I thought 

EVELYN. 255 

Evelyn was a romantic girl, and that her se- 
cret might be better told than kept ; or might 
be kept without causing her husband to die 
of baffled curiosity ; so I answered, 

" Was it not Charlotte Steiglitz who said 
to her good-for-nothing husband, when speak- 
ing of the beauty of reserve even with those 
we love best, ' I have one secret I never speak 
of, even to thee ; it is for thy good, but it 
looks a little gloomy sometimes/ " 

" Ah ! I have often recalled the words," 
said Evelyn ; " but poor, erring, yet noble- 
hearted Charlotte, alluded then to her pro- 
jected self-murder for her husband's good ; 
my secret regards not the destruction, but 
the preservation, of a life." 

I could not question ; so, biting my lips, to 
prevent the attempt, I said, " Well, what 
will you do now, Evelyn ? We are fairly on 
what you called at Stockholm * continental 
ground ;' and here, you recollect, our plans 
were to be arranged. A packet sails for Hull 
to-morrow, which is I believe a pleasant 

She laid her hand upon mine ; it was icy 

" Hull ! England ! oh no ! " she said in a 
low, trembling voice. 

256 EVELYN. 

" What will you do then ?" 

" Stay with you !" she cried, and throwing 
her arms around me, hid her pale, terri- 
fied face upon my neck. " Oh, friend, 
friend !" she almost sobbed, "will you send 
me from you ? " 

My eyelids were damp as they touched 
her glowing hair; and quite involuntarily, 
and against my own judgment, and every 
one's common sense, I answered, 

« No!" 

" Heaven with its best blessing bless 
you ! " was the reply. 

And so, though I had come into the room 
determined to employ some of the many 
friendly merchants of Hamburg to consign 
the dear girl safely to our native land, we 
had settled, before I left it, to start very 
early in the morning for the Hartzge- 

I then went to my own room ; but one of 
the misfortunes to which people possessed 
both of some cool judgment, and of some 
warm feelings are exposed is, that whenever 
one of these antagonistic qualities gains the 
pre-eminence, the other is sure to retaliate ; 
that is to say, when Mrs. Feeling runs away, 
as we say, with Mr. Judgment, she gets 

EVELYN. 257 

tired, and stops to rest, and then Mr. Judg- 
ment comes up with all the calmness of 
power, and sets poor Feeling aside, or tells 
her she is like a foolish nurse giving sweets 
to a child who wants medicine to save its 
life. And then, on the other hand, when 
we listen to Judgment, and will not let 
Feeling say a word, w^e often lament the 
cold worldly wisdom which has made our 
own hearts and the hearts of others to ache. 

Now in this scene at the Hotel de Russie 
at Hamburg, Feeling had, just in the man- 
ner aforesaid, run away with Judgment ; 
but when I was alone at night. Judgment 
rose up and gained the victory, and I felt 
very doubtful whether I ought to have 
yielded to Evelyn's apparent whim. I could 
not rest until I had gone back and told her 
that I would go to England with her, if 
she wished it, and stay there till I consigned 
her to the charge of this parson Frank. 
What, if I should take her to Rome to 
leave her in a convent ? said I to myself; 
every one would say I was half a nun 
myself ! 

Before my candle had quite burned out, 
this clamour of Judgment versus Feeling 
became so imperative, that I left my room. 

258 EVELYN. 

and found my way along the passage that 
divided us to Evelyn's apartment. We 
had been unable to get contiguous ones. 
When I entered it, Evelyn stood partly un- 
dressed in the middle of the floor, and 
looked quite frightened. 

" Did I alarm you ? " I said. 

" Oh no ! but I am nervous, I know not 
why. Do you see this door opening into 
another room ? I did not notice it till lately ; 
it is locked, but there is no fastening on 
this side : it makes me shudder, I feel so 
lonely, so unprotected here in this great 

*' You are more nervous than you were 
in the north, Evelyn." 

" Oh yes !" she replied ; " I felt quite at 
ease in Sweden, because it is so remote, so 
out of the way of disturbances, or of con- 
spirators, or of" — she looked round the 
room, and changing her tone, added, "you 
have made me think over frightful things 
by that question you asked me not very long 
ago ; and besides, I am naturally timid, and 
since I have been in Germany, I am con- 
stantly apprehensive : it is foolish, for there 
is really no cause." 

EVELYN. 259 

" Ah ! Evelyn, that apprehensiveness just 
opens the way for what I wanted to talk 
to you about. You are indeed lonely and 
unprotected : you ought not to be so. You 
have pitied the shaken rose-branch that has 
got loose from the sheltering wall ; you have 
seen it blown by the breeze, its fair blossoms 
seeming to tremble even in the sunbeams. 
Well, you remind me of that." 

The large, clear brown eyes filled quite 
full of tears. But with more energy than 
she usually spoke with, Evelyn exclaimed, 

" But if the nail that held it to the wall 
be gone, if the poor rose-branch can never 
again be attached to the sheltering wall, 
would it not be well to cut it quite away, 
and hide it out of sight, where it can never 
be seen again in the breezes or sunbeams ? " 

" As a last resource, perhaps," I answered 
her, smiling ; " but if I could find the nail, and 
know that the wall is always there, methinks 
I would rather employ the hammer to make 
it fast again, than the knife to cut it away. 
And that is what I want to do in your case, 
Evelyn. I think I should make a very good 
hammer, and I fancy I know the wall ; all I 
want is for you to find me the nail ; if you will 

260 EVELYN. 

not, then it is your own fault that the poor 
rose-branch flutters, so painfully detached 
from its position." 

" Say cannot, instead of will not," said 
Evelyn, " and you speak truly. You mean 
that I cannot afford you that clue to my 
position which might enable you to perform 
tlie good work I see you long to undertake. 
I must not, dare not, nay, with the help of 
God, I will not do so. 

" If you think I do not suffer by this de- 
tachment from all that once formed to me 
the hope and joy of life, you are wrong ; and 
if you think that I do not feel, as all sensi- 
tive women do, the painful unpleasantness 
of an independent position, you may be con- 
vinced that I do when I tell you, that 
abhorrent to me as the thoug-ht of marriao^e 
is, when the image of the person one marries 
is not the first and onlv one enshrined in the 
heart, I found at first a soothing relief in the 
affection of that noble Oscar, and was fully 
sensible of the hope of protection, and degree 
even of happiness I renounced, when I re- 
solved to check or divert it. 

" I am thankful that two motives appeared 
to me in time to be strong enoug-h to enable 

EVELYN. 261 

me to act upon them. One was in itself 
overruling, — a regard for the happiness of 
him who loved me, and who had not the 
first place in my heart. I knew that if I 
were his wife, such warmth of feeling as he 
possessed would be like the fire of Hecla 
fallino- on the surface of Iceland. When the 
degree of fascination which, unhappily, cir- 
cumstances had caused me to exercise over 
him was moderated by time, he would ex- 
perience the bitterest feeling a heart can 
know, when it loves with ardour and meets 
no ardour in return. His happiness, there- 
fore, and not my own, was the chief cause of 
my refusal. 

" My other reason was the knowledge of his 
mother's wishes, and the discovery I made, 
at first by observation, and afterwards by an 
unmistakable occurrence, of the faithful 
Lilla's secret love. I explain all this to you 
now, because I cannot give you a stronger 
proof of my sensitiveness to the pain of an 
isolated and independent position, than by 
owning that, to avoid it, I was at one time 
almost tempted to accept Baron Oscar, and 
spend the rest of my life in the seclusion of 
the happy North." 

262 EVELYN. 

" But another consideration must have oc- 
curred to you, Evelyn : would not your step- 
cousin be miserable if you married another 
person ? " 

" He would be far more miserable if I 
married himself," she replied, "and was still 
forced to maintain the reserve and mystery 
he abhors." 

Twice she crossed the floor, as if the move- 
ment proceeded, as it often does, from the 
impulsion of a mind whose workings could 
not otherwise be manifested. Then she came 
and sat down on a low arm-chair just before 
me, leaned forwards, and covered her face 
with her open hands. Perhaps for ten 
minutes we sat thus, nearly face to face, in 
total silence. I thought she was revolving 
in her thoughts the course she would pursue, 
and that any speech of mine might only im- 
pede the process. 

But when she lifted up her head, all agi- 
tation, all apparent perplexity, had disap- 
peared ; her sweet face, though pale, was 
perfectly calm, and I felt she had been pray- 
ing rather than thinking. 

Her white hands lifted back the golden 
tresses that had fallen round her, and those 

EVELYN. 263 

soft moonlight eyes, which few people could 
look into unmoved, gazed rather solemnly 
into mine, as Evelyn gently said, 

" What do you think of the spirit-world?" 
Tlie question startled me, especially when 
thus proposed after midnight; but I an- 
swered it very wisely, 

" How do you mean, bad or good ?" 
" Good ; I never wish to think of the bad." 
" Still you must define your meaning : do 
you allude to the spirits which St. Paul tells 
us are sent forth to minister to the heirs of 
salvation ; or to the ' spirits of the just made 
perfect,' who have departed from their mor- 
tal probation ?" 

" I mean the departed spirits of earth — of 
our friends ; but I love to think that they 
are the ministers St. Paul alludes to." 

" What? that the spirits of the dead are 
around us?" 

" Does the thought alarm you? to me it 
is pleasing. I like to think that they see our 
mortal course continued ; our struo-des, our 
errors, and victories ; that they behold us 
much as we behold a little child whose suf- 
ferings are self-made, whose faults produce 
our pity, but do not cause us pain. And 

264 EVELYN. 

then, when we sometimes perform a good 
action, or express a noble resolve, are we 
not startled by a conviction that some dear 
departed one has looked at us with a smile ?" 

" I fear theologians would dissent from 
your belief, Evelyn." 

" It is not a belief ; only an idea, which I 
think the most arbitrary creed might allow 
me to cherish." 

" Provided it does not lead to two errors; 
obscuring the sense of the omnipresent Fa- 
ther of spirits taking cognizance of the same 
things ; or tending to produce superstitious 
and fearful imaginations." 

" There is, I think, greater danger of the 
first than the last error. But we pray to 
God only ; and, when we invite His presence 
and help to be with us, I think the minister 
in the church is as much likely to make us 
forget the God he serves, as our sense of 
being ministered to by our departed friends, 
from the spiritual world, is likely to cause us 
to overlook the Spirit of God under whom 
they act." 

" The notion," I said, " is one too pleasing 
to my own mind for me to argue against it, 
if I could argue on any subject. But what 


EVELYN. 265 

can this theory of departed spirits have to 
say to the question of the shaken rose-branch 
and its native wall ? " 

" Little, yet much," was her reply ; and 
she resumed her former attitude, her elbows 
on her knees, her face in the open hands ; 
her long bright hair hanging loose over the 
white robe de chambre, making her look not 
unlike some pure spirit herself, mourning 
over a loved wanderer of our sinful earth. 
Thus sitting, and speaking through the partly 
opened hands, Evelyn continued, 

" I may suppose a case, to give you an idea 
of what I mean. It may appear a romantic 
one ; but, as I say, it is only to give you an 
idea of my meaning. 

" Imagine, then, a remote country house, 
built in fact out of the remains of a ruined 
monastery, the chapel of which stood as it 
had been when the monks had sung there 
their midnight prayers ; a solemn yet neg- 
lected place. Suj^pose that in the house to 
which it was attached, you watched a fair 
young creature who some few months be- 
fore had stood at the altar, when she was, it 
appeared, made a happy bride ; whom you 
had loved with a fond sisterly love, and 

VOL. I. N 

266 EVELYN. 

wliose spirit, though she had not lived nine- 
teen years in this life, was, from some 
unknown cause, just hovering on the border 
land of eternity. 

"Suppose that in the gloom of the twi- 
light, when you alone watched beside her, 
and doubted whether life yet lingered in 
that slender, scarcely breathing form, she 
were suddenly to rise up from her couch, 
and with a life-like energy, that yet more 
resembled what we hear of galvanic action 
on the dead, draw you within that disused 
chapel ; and there, kneeling by her side at the 
altar, cause you, not compulsorily, but from 
the power of holy and deep feelings, to 
pledge yourself solemnly to the fulfilment of 
her dying injunctions, — would you not after- 
wards be likely to fancy that her spirit was 
around you whenever you were tempted to 
go back from the contract ; or whenever you 
were strengthened to resist all the tempta- 
tions which the world or the flesh might offer 
you to do so ?" 

" The case you propose is an awful as well 
as romantic one," I answered ; " yet it is not 
too much of the latter to be a real one. As 
to the propriety of observing such a vow — 

EVELYN. 267 

for I can readily imagine its having been 
undeliberately made — that depends on the 
nature of the dying injunctions that were to 
be fulfilled." 

" The vow was not undeliberately made," 
said Evelyn quickly, for she was a poor dis- 
sembler, and could not even carry out her 
supposed case as an imaginary one ; " and 
as to the nature of those injunctions, let us 
believe them dictated by a spirit going to its 
Redeemer, 'washed, sanctified, justified,' — 
believe them such as His own death on 
Calvary, and His own last prayer, might have 

" In such a case, Evelyn, I can say no 
more. But if that dying friend knew the 
sacrifice of self her required pledge de- 
manded, could she be right still in demand- 
ing it?" 

" She would still, poor girl, have been 
right," said Evelyn, with a deep sigh ; " but 
she knew it not. I myself at first knew not 
how diflficult it would be to try to fulfil it." 

She paused, and looked up with a start, 
while recollecting how quickly she had come 
to speak personally in her supposed case. 
" Ah ! there ! there is the danger of be- 
N 2 

268 EVELYN. 

ginning to speak. Oil ! if I were thus to 
converse with Frank, in one hour all would 
be told, all would be destroyed." 

" I think," I replied, " there appears little 
fear of your betraying to me anything which 
you are obliged absolutely to conceal ; and I 
should think you might be equally firm with 

" Hovv can you think so ? You do not 
possess the knowledge, even the family know- 
ledge, which alone could give you a danger- 
ous power in questioning me as to recent 
events. You, too, would not suffer from my 
silence ; and you, perhaps, do not think the 
appearance of mystery sinful. But let me 
add to the case I proposed to you, for I did 
not finish it. Suppose, further, that just as 
your dying friend's communication had been 
made, and when she, almost ghost-like, had 
left your side, you saw a man retiring with a 
well-known, cat-like step, from the same 
place, and knew that he had made himself a 
witness and a hearer of all that had been 
said and done ; that he knew you held his 
life in your hands, but knew also that he 
held the life of another man in his hands ; 
that for the sake of the last you must pre- 

EVELYN. 269 

serve the first, — would not the sense of 
standing in such a situation change the very 
aspect you had worn, make you at times 
feel alarmed without cause?" 

" I think so, undoubtedly ; and this latter 
part of the case I should most certainly 
repeat to any friends likely to advise or 
assist me." 

" I may mention it to you," she answered, 
" but I could not do so to my own family or 
connections, because, if I did so, my secret 
would be betrayed. Even what I say to you 
I dare not say to them." 

" You will then continue to avoid your 
cousin?" I said. 

*' For his own peace' sake, and for the 
salvation of another, I must do so," was her 
answer. " Half confidence," she continued, 
" never can do good, and may do much harm. 
The only person who could have saved me 
from bearing alone what I must now bear, 
is buried at Stockholm. Circumstances, 
which many years ago took place in my 
family, were only lately made known to my- 
self ; unless you were acquainted with these, 
in connection with the strange events of my 
recent history, you could give me no advice 

270 EVELYN. 

likely to reach my case. My only hope 
must be in time, for, 

' Time as it courses onward still unrolls 
The volume of concealment ; * 

and in God, to whom I may venture to say 
with David, ' I am afflicted and oppressed, 
without any offence or fault of mine, 
Lord.' Strange commotions are likely soon 
to take place in Italy : who knows but they 
may affect me ; be the means even of releas- 
ing me from mystery ? "' 

" You allude to the return of the amnes- 
tied conspirators?" 

" I allude to what will follow that return.'' 

"Evelyn, for one so young, and still so 
really ignorant of the world, you appear to 
have gained a singular branch of inform- 
ation ! " 

" The means were the simplest in the 
world," she replied ; " the man of whom I 
spoke is one of the amnestied of Pope Pius." 

" And it is for his sake you"— 

" No, no, no ! Nothing for his sake; for one 
connected with him — but, dear friend, let us 
say no more. I have already said enough to 
show you I cannot, must not, go to England ; 

EVELYN. 271 

as yet, I know not where I ought to go, but 
not there at all events." 

" You have convinced me you will not," I 

" Cruel ! ah ! if you knew the cousin 
whose cause you think you advocate, you 
would feel, as I do, that his peace, his honour, 
are worth the sacrifice of oneself." 

" More and more puzzled, Evelyn." 

" Alas ! you must be so, if you will talk with 
me of myself, or of him. Five minutes of 
plain speaking would make all clear, but that 
is forbidden. Only then agree, for once and 
for ever, as far as your journey goes, to let 
me stay with you ; let me accompany you 
to Rome, and you shall see the end, if an 
end there be. Do not now forsake me : 
your heart will reprove you heareafter if 
you do." 

I kissed the poor trembler, scarcely know- 
ing whether to think her the best and most 
heroic, or the most foolish of all lovely 

But Evelyn's eyes, the expression of those 
sorrowful lips, even the touch of her soft 
hands, had somehow an effect on me which 
her arguments had not; and, however deter- 

272 EVELYN. 

mined I was to say no, I always said yes, to the 
request which, but for her own sake, would 
have been very agreeable to me. One cir- 
cumstance, indeed, had shown me that she 
was determined not to go to England, and 
that was her anxiety not to meet her step- 
cousin on our road. If she was to meet 
him there, she might as well meet him here ; 
but Evelyn now seems to think that an inter- 
view with him, with the only man she affirms 
she ever could marry, would have a fatal 
influence on her destiny, or perhaps on the 
destiny of others ; I know not which, for I 
feel as I used to do in the nights of the 
north, I can neither see clearly, nor feel 
myself in the dark ; it is neither day nor 
night around me. 

I was going to my bed, when, finding we 
had talked so long, that it was scarcely w^orth 
while to do so, and remembering Evelyn's 
fear of the door, I placed myself on the spare 
bed in her room, and fell, very soon, at 
least half asleep. 

When I opened my eyes, however, wonder- 
ing that the light still burned, I saw Evelyn 
kneeling at the table. Resting against a 
bible was an open portrait ; Evelyn's back 
was to me, but the table being quite near, I 

EVELYN. 273 

could see the portrait of a young preacher, 
robed in black. The clear blue-eye appeared 
to ])ierce beyond the limits of our time-state, 
and the one upraised finger to point the 
minds of others in the same direction. 

There was something in that eye, which, 
though the face was almost youthful, could 
awe the careless, and impress the conviction 
of truth, eternal truth, on those who met its 
calm, powerful regard. There was a re- 
semblance in those eyes to the eyes I had 
seen fastened on the falls of Trollhattan; but 
in the portrait they appeared to be dwelling 
on the thinofs of eternitv, at Trollhattan 
they were softer and brighter : you could 
even imagine them melting in earthly love, 
or smiling in worldly joy. 

There, now, with those solemn eyes look- 
ing at her, Evelyn knelt ; what was passing 
in her heart I know not. 

When I rose in the light of day, she was 
sleeping, calm as a child, and more youthful- 
looking than when awake. I bent over her 
to awake her for our railroad journey, and 
felt that her slumbers betokened a spirit 
that had reposed itself in the love of God 
before the body sunk to rest. 
N 3 

274 EVELYN. 


At uninteresting Brunswick we were de- 
layed for half an hour : while waiting at the 
railway station, a personage, who announced 
himself as a Pole who had come from Lon- 
don, and been at the soirees of the Countess 
of something, came to look about for a com- 
mission ; he 

" left half-told 
The story of Cambuscan bold ; " 

for a puff of the engine freed us from the 
civilities, which he assured us his gratitude 
to the English nation alone inspired. 

We reached the handsome and really 
comfortable hotel of Neustad, newly built, as 
its name imports, at the terminus of the 
Hartsburg Railway. 

The next morning we went to the Brocken. 
I had no desire to tread that too much trod- 

EVELYN. 275 

den ground ; yet I had a little curiosity to 
see the often-talked-of scene of the Wal- 
purgis Nacht. 

genius ! how are thy footsteps followed 
over earth. On every spot where thou hast 
set thy mark, thither does a motley group of 
pilgrims, from age to age, repair. 

Let a writer like Gdthe do evil, or let 
him like Scott do good, the effect as to the 
places he has celebrated becomes the same. 
If Mephistopheles and Dr. Faust had not 
flown, in an extraordinary manner, over the 
Hartz, fewer travellers would have wended 
their more common-place way over the 

" Our mantles spread before the wind, 
Are all such fellow-travellers need ; 
No common wants our speed abate ; 
Our luggage is not overweight : " 

an. essential particular for Mephistopheles 
to remember, which shows us he was of Ger- 
man origin. And how many other scenes 
are made the object of a pilgrimage for the 
sake of the person who wrote, not of the 
place written of. 

Evelyn and I were no adorers of Gothe, 
nor the least thankful to him for what he 

276 EVELYN. 

had clone, by means of imitators, either for 
English poetry or German religion ; but ^ve 
wanted to see, as I have said, the wild theatre 
of the Walpurgis Nacht,not in the least know- 
ing why the first Christian missionary's name 
should be given to the night on which witches 
and ghosts, and all unholy manner of things, 
are said to assemble — were, I should say, for 
superstition is well-nigh defunct every- 

We sat down on a fantastic block on the 
summit of the Brocken, not very far from 
the inn. 

" I should like to be here on the eve of 
May-day," I said, " if there were any chance 
of seeing my own ghost, with its name pinned 
on its back ; it would look so droll ! poor 
little thing." 

" Hush !" said Evelyn, quite solemnly ; " I 
fear to jest with the spiritual world." 

" Nonsense!" I cried; but the next mo- 
ment added, " I believe you are right. The 
error of our age is not superstition, but in- 

" Superstition ! " Evelyn ejaculated ; " un- 
belief has driven it from tlie world ; in- 
fidelity is treading down even its traces." 

EVELYN. 277 

I knew quite well she did not mean what 
I meant ; yet I answered, for I did not want 
a serious discussion, 

" Oh yes ! railroads and steamboats, and 
the whirr of this every-day working life, have 
quite run through and through the Blocksberg 
and its spectres. Only see how that Mur- 
ray, with his cool matter-of-factism, fore- 
warns every traveller of the dull realities 
which have supplanted the dear old wonders 
of a very different age. What says he in his 
curious encyclopsedias of travel ? 

" ' The spectre of the Brocken, occasion- 
ally seen from this spot, may have con- 
tributed to strengthen the belief of its being 
haunted. It appears at sunset, or sunrise, 
whenever the mists happen to ascend per- 
pendicularly out of the valley on the side 
opposite to the sun, and leave the mountain- 
tops free from vapour. The shadow of the 
mountain is reflected against the face of the 
vapour : the inn becomes a palace in size, 
and the human beings on the summit appear 
giants. The size of the figures increases or 
diminishes as the fog is driven further or 
nearer to the Brocken by the wind.' 

" ' And/ adds Mr. Howitt, * if the fog be 

278 EVELYN. 

very dry, you see not only yourself but your 
neighbour ; if very damp, yourself only, sur- 
rounded by a rainbow-coloured glory, the 
more lustrous and beautiful the damper the 
fog is, and the nearer it approaches.' How 
strangely lovely you would look, Evelyn, sur- 
rounded with that rainbow-coloured glory ; 
I wish I could see you in the fog ! " 

" I fear you think me too much in cloud- 
land already," she answered, laughing. 

" That is quite true. But do not such 
plain John Bullisms as these lift the veil 
provokingly high ; and render all the delight- 
ful old-world phantasmagoria a mere raw- 
head-and-bloody-bones story for old heads 
on young shoulders to scoff at ? How shall 
fare the generation that is following us ? 
Imagination in this age has died a violent 
death ; strangled, choked, in machinery ; our 
railroads, et cetera^ have crushed its soul 
out : we have lived on the shreds of the 
past, and worn them completely out." 

" There is nothing new under the sun," 
said Evelyn ; " what dies in one age revives 
in another ; a generation or two, or more, 
even a century or two, may be passed over ; 
but, like personal beauty, which you know 

EVELYN. 279 

is said to run the same (at times) invisible 
course, the thing that hath been, reappears. 
The world presents a succession of changes ; 
but it is a great kaleidescope ; if we could 
stand still, and watch its revolutions, we 
should see what we had seen before." 

" Yes, so far as fashions, opinions, perhaps 
graver matters also, are concerned, you are 
right ; but the dear old credulities of by- 
gone times, the innocent mythology, which 
the alffebra and mathematics of our infant 


education have quite destroyed, will it again 
delight the imagination of such a child as I 
myself was ? Will the wonder-flower bloom 
again on the Brocken ; or will its spectres ap- 
pear when called for ? Have not the micro- 
scopic glasses of our times looked through and 
through all such dear illusions ? Have not 
our never-resting travellers ransacked and 
burlesqued their retreats and sanctuaries ; 
and the great, dry platter-faced genius of 
Anno Domini 1800 nodded its head, for 
nearly fifty years, at all the relics which the 
sacristies of imagination had preserved, and 
caused them to vanish into curious nothings ?" 
" Do not get angry," Evelyn said, smiling; 
" what hath been shall be, and what is, is 

2804 EVELYN. 

that which shall come after. Ah ! friend, in 
matters great and small there is wisdom in 
that word — wait." 

We heard voices murmuring at the other 
side of the granite block on which we sat. 

" Let us go to the inn," said my com- 
panion, rising; " even on the Blocksberg we 
may have listeners." 

" Perhaps a Mephistopheles is at the other 
side, with some silly Dr. Faust ; they have 
heard no dangerous secrets ; but I am tired, 
and could almost drink Birchen-wasser ; so, 
come," I made answer. 

In moving round towards the Brocken 
Haus, we passed a young man and a lady, 
who were at the wild-looking scene of the 
Witches' Festival. The lady had her back 
to us, but the other person was full before 
us ; as we came near, she said, in the tongue 
wherein we were born, 

" Yes ; but while you are quoting Gothe, 
I cannot help thinking of an English version 
of some of the words of Faust : 

" The wild wind sweeps like a storm o'er a wreck ; 
It is icy cold, and it cuts my neck." 

The young man sprang up, and with an 
exclamation, rather over-proportioned in ve- 


EVELYN. 281 

hemence to the occasion, and in the sweetest 
tones of a decidedly Irish voice, exclaimed 
against himself and his forgetfulness, in. 
letting her sit there and suffer ; and, with a 
nurse's care, he endeavoured to draw a shawl 
around the threatened neck. 

" Why will you always think of me, and 
not of yourself?" was the answer, as the 
efFortwas rather impatiently resisted. "Surely, 
you must know it was of you I thought ? I 
am not suffering from delicate lungs. You 
never think of yourself; never take the least 
care of yourself." 

*'Who would do so, if he could be so thought 
of?" said the young man, with flashing eyes ; 
" but I am wrong, very wrong," he added, in 
an altered manner, " to give any one the 
trouble of caring for me." 

In the Mountain Inn we were shown into 
a room already occupied by an elderly couple, 
and a quantity of shawls and cloaks, suffi- 
cient almost for a party of Germans ; but 
we knew, instinctively, we were not with 
the natives. The man appeared sixty years of 
age, the woman, perhaps, five years younger ; 
they seemed to belong to that rather unde- 
fined rank called the middle classes, and had 
good, broad, honest-looking, yet not quite 

282 EVELYN. 

English, faces. They talked in whispers for 
a few moments, and then the old lady, ap- 
proaching us, put her face very close to mine, 
and Avithout the least of that scared appear- 
ance, which the address of a stranger usually 
gives a native of England, speaking very 
loud, and pointing her finger through the 
panes of the narrow window, to make her 
meaning still plainer, she said, 

" Dere — in dat plaace — have — you — seen 
a lady — and a — yung man ?" 

The unequal pauses, the difficulty with 
which she tried to s])eak English, and yet 
her broad Irish accent, was the most ludi- 
crous thing I almost ever heard ; but aware 
that such tricks are practised, I was not dis- 
posed to laugh as I replied coldly, 

" We did see a lady and gentleman not 
far from here." 

The effect of this speech was marvellous. 
The old lady's face "broke in pieces with 
joy," as my French master, an officer of 
Napoleon's, used to make me translate " la 
joie ^clatait sur le visage de Calypso ;" and 
at the sound of my voice the old man rose 
up and came over to the window, exclaiming, 
in downright good Irish, 

EVELYN. 283 

" Heavens bless my heart and soul ! you 
are English ! " 

" Ah ! then," cried his good wife, " isn't it 
a mercy to meet any one that can speak a 
decent tongue, and understands you without 
your talking gibberish? And, ladies, upon 
my honour and word, I never met a human 
creature, since I have been in foreign parts, 
that didn't speak English just as I spoke to 
you ; for all the world like babies ; so when I 
thought you w^ere foreigners, I knew there 
was no use of speaking to you like sensible 

" Certainly not," I answered, with a gravity 
that made Evelyn actually laugh. But my 
heart warmed to the exquisite old woman ; 
I felt as if I should be her friend for life. 
There is something so delicious now-a-days 
in open, undisguised, unblushing ignorance. 
Let others say what they will, when I meet 
it in honest, hearty simplicity, I love it ; it 
wins and warms my heart. 

" Maybe I'd better step out after them, 
dear?" said husband Patrick to his sposa, 
with the tone of a man who generally stated 
an opinion in the form of a question. 

" Then is it mad entirely you'd be, Patrick, 

284 EVELYN. 

man, to go out there, wandering about on 
the wild hills, and you not able to say a 
word for yourself if I'm not with you ? " 

" Well, dear, I know that ; but sure, if he 
gets cold, or breaks a bloodvessel again, it's 
you that'll be blamed for it, when you are 
here to take care of him ; so it's only to save 
you trouble I speak." 

" And it's kind and considerate of you, 
Patrick, that it is ; but you see I must per- 
form my own duties, for, upon my word and 
honour, I do believe no one could ever per- 
form them for me. Now, ladies, it's won- 
dering you'll be at my anxieties ; but you 
see my nephew that's out there, is a great 
genius ; indeed, between ourselves, I fear he 
is too great a genius to live, poor boy ; they 
said he was going into a decline, and the 
doctors sent him to travel ; and then — and 
then — why then some one made me come 
to take care of him ; and my husband, you 
know, couldn't be left behind ; and there's a 
young lady, a very grand young lady indeed, 
under my care too, and so you may think I 
have enough to do." 

" Undoubtedly. But if you wish to find 
your friends, you can easily do so ; I will 
show you the place." 

EVELYN. 285 

" Thank you, ma'am, thank you," slie said, 
drawing a step or two from me as she 
spoke : " very much obliged, ma'am, but I'd 
rather not go near such places as that ; 
why, ma'am, perhaps you don't know it's a 
very improper and wicked place they are 
gone to ? " 

" Oh, indeed ! I did not know that." 

" No, ma'am, it's likely not ; but I knew 
better ; I said to my nephew, ' Albert,' says 
I, ' I am agreeable to go with you all over 
the whole world as we are doing, and any- 
where else in reason you wish, but when 
you want me to go to a witch's altar ' " — 

" Altar is a papist word," said the husband. 

" True for you, Patrick ; well I won't 
say against that word ; but pulpit, Patrick, 
pulpit is Protestant ; and there's a thing out 
there they call the devil's pulpit ! Well, 
heaven forgive them ! that's all I say " — and 
as people usually do when they utter a similar 
good wish, she held up her hands with a 
gesture that said such forgiveness would 
never be accorded, — " it's a pretty sermon 
he'd give us, I'm thinking." 

" And the witch must be clerk, and say 
amen," cried husband Pat, with a hearty 

286 EVELYN. 

" Don't laugh, Patrick, don't, dear ; I 
don't approve of such things ; I do not in- 
deed ; I say it's making light of sacred 

" But I think in Ireland you have got a 
' Devil's Bit,' and his glen, and his bridge," 
I said. 

" Aye, that's true ; and some people thinl^ 
we have got too much of his work alto- 
gether," said the husband ; and he laughed 

" Now Patrick, dear, I wish you wouldn't 
be jesting at sacred things," said the old 
lady ; " it's not right, indeed it isn't. But, 
ladies, may I ask how you knew we were 
from Ireland ? " 

" Oh !" I exclaimed ; and Evelyn and I 
laughed in spite of ourselves, " I guessed it 
by — by a sort of accent." 

" Accent ! have I any accent, Patrick ? 
Upon my word, I thought my husband and 
myself had not the least Irish accent ; we 
were a whole month, too, or more, in London 
before we came here." 

" But we never left the sweet banks of 
the Shannon in our lives before then," said 
husband Patrick, " and I give you my word, 

EVELYN. 287 

ladies, I never saw anything like them 

" I suppose not," was my reply. 

" Well, Ireland has its evils too, Patrick ; 
but nothing, I think, so bad as the horrible 
superstitions that are practised here." 

" What are they?" asked Evelyn, with 
a look of innocent wonder ; but I believe 
our new acquaintances were stranger to her 
than the witches. 

She received a glance of pitying admira- 
tion from the old woman. 

" I declare now if it isn't a pity to see 
innocent, sweet creatures going about such 
places ; and them as ignorant as the child 
unborn of the impropriety and sinfulness 
of them. Well, ladies, you see my nephew 
will follow his own opinion, because he is a 
great genius, and you know they can per- 
suade any one that black is white ; and the 
young lady that's under my care — well, I 
suppose she's too good to see evil in any- 
thing, or I'm sure she'd never come to this 
desolate mountain to see the Devil's Pulpit 
and the Witches' Altar; and sit out there 
listening to stories that would make your 
blood run cold, and your hair stand on an 

288 EVELYN. 

end, if you were to hear them : how Satan 
flew over this mountain with a German 
doctor ; and of the horrid witches' feast ; and 
how on May-day eve he is here, with a 
great congregation round his pulpit ; and 
how any one who calls for his own ghost 
can see it, or any other ; and how the ghost 
will appear with its name pinned on its back. 
The poor deluded creatures ; it's benighted 
they are ! Now isn't it a wonder that in 
these missionary times, no one ever thought 
of sending a missionary to them — a mission to 
the Brocken ; isn't it the Brocken they call 
it ? Well, we have nothing worse in Ireland 
than this, Patrick." 

" Try and get a meeting about it at the 
Rotunda," said I ; for though I never "jest 
about sacred things," there was something 
irresistible in this excellent lady's innocent 
zeal. But we were very hungry, and so we 
left her to consider the proposal, and went 
to look for something to eat. 

We wandered afterwards a little about 
the Brocken, and returned to our hotel at 

The next day was Sunday. Had we 
known what a scene this railway terminus 

EVELYN. 289 

would have exhibited, we might have chosen 
another halting-place. I fancied there was 
a quiet significance on our obliging Kellner's 
countenance, when I said something of our 
English custom of spending the Sunday 
quietly, for which reason we would remain 
there, contrary to our first intention, and 
start off on Monday ; but he only answered, 

" Si Madame le veut." 

On that evening, thinking that Evelyn 
would not like to go out among such a mass 
of people (all the citizens of Brunswick, I 
believe, poured out to Neustadt, and all the 
peasants of the neighbourhood came to look 
at them, eating, drinking, knitting, and 
waltzing), I was stealing along the great 
corridor, to see if I could effect an escape 
into some quiet suburb, when I heard a 
quick step patting after me, and a voice, 
in very suppressed tones, crying " Honey, 
honey ; stop a bit, honey." I looked back, 
and saw the old lady of the Brocken. 

" Ah then, honey, maybe you could tell 
me where my room is ? Upon my word and 
honour, I'm lost entirely." 

" Do you know the number ? " 

"Number: it's numbered they are, like 

VOL. I. o 

290 EVELYN. 

the doors of a street? Well, now I remem- 
ber, there was, I think, 56 on it." 

" Fifty-six ; come this way, I will try to 
find it." 

" Thank you, dear ; I'll be for ever obliged 
to you. You see, my dear, when strangers 
meet in a strange land, they should be 
friendly, and do a good turn for one another. 
I'm sure I'll be heartily glad to help you at 
any time. You see, dear, when anything 
happens to me, I don't like to be disturbing 
the young lady that's under my care, though 
she speaks all the tongues that ever were 
invented ; but then she's an authoress, you 
know, and she's always by herself, and always, 
I suj3pose, Avriting, or reading, or thinking." 

" And you have an authoress and a genius 
under your care !" I exclaimed, surveying 
the vulgar-looking, good-humoured little 
woman from head to foot. 

" Hush, hush ! you mustn't say I said so ; 
it's only particular friends, you know, are in 
the secret." 

" Yes, like you and I." 

" Just so, dear." 

" Madame, voici votre chambre." 

" Och ! do you speak that gibberish, too ?" 

EVELYN. 291 

" This is 56." 

" So it is, and there is my cloak. Yes, 
it's right. Come in, dear, come in ; come in 
for a moment. Now, upon my word you 
must. Patrick 's out, and even if he wasn't, 
sure they eat, and sit, and sleep in the same 
room here, the savages ! but he is out with 
my nephew, and you needn't be afraid. 
Come in, and let us have a bit of chat ; my 
tongue is tired of never saying a word ; for 
you know, dear, authoresses and geniuses 
don't talk like other people." 

" Not at all like you and I," was my saga- 
cious rejoinder. 

" Not at all, not at all ; there, now, sit 
down, and make yourself easy, for I am sure 
it's a real pleasure to get any one to talk to." 

" Why do you not learn to speak French 
and German, madam ?" 

" I do speak, ma'am, I do speak them ; 
how could I travel, and make myself useful, 
if I couldn't speak ? But ma'am, my opinion 
is, that when people speak the language of 
these heathens, they grow like them. Why, 
my dear creature, let me ask you if you ever 
beheld such a scene as this on the Sabbath 
day ? and the women knitting too ; fine- 
o 2 


292 EVELYN. 

dressed ladies, actually knitting away as if for 
a morsel of bread, as if they hadn't six week- 
days to make their husbands' stockings. But 
they are heathens — they are heathens ! with 
their ghosts, and witches' altars, and devils' 
pulpits. Ah ! maybe it's the sermons they 
hear there that make them Sabbath- 

" Very probably ; yet they are Protestants 
too : this is Martin Luther's own land." 

" Bless my heart ! it's wonderful now, isn't 

" Wonderful ! But I fear the English do 
not always set other people the example they 
say they follow at home; their favourite 
motto is, to ' do at Rome as Rome does;' 
they often refuse to act upon it in little 
matters, but observe it in great ; and after 
joining in most of the Sunday amusements 
and customs abroad, lifoey go back and write, 
or talk, against them at home." 

" That is not my way, my dear ; nor, in- 
deed, I must say, is it my nephew's, or — or 
any one else's ; but I should like to tell you 
what a scrape I got into once by trying to 
set people a good example, and to show 
them how to keep the Sabbath day." 

EVELYN. 293 

« Pray, tell me." 

" Well, I will, then ; there, now, just sit 
on that couch : upon my word, the couches 
here are the only good things I have seen ; 
as for the beds, they are only like stuffed 

So when she had settled me to her wish, 
her tongue once more began to use its re- 
stored freedom. 

" So, my dear, we were on the Rhine — a 
mighty fine river it is, but nothing to com- 
pare to the Shannon, I think — and my ne- 
phew stayed somewhere to see the students. 
Did you ever see them, my dear ? Such 
creatures ! not like our collegians ; I declare, 
they are like things come out of Bedlam ; 
and sometimes they don't look a bit like 
man or woman, with coats like dressing- 
gowns, only covered over with braids and 
tassels and things, tag-rag and bob-tail ; and 
their whity hair hanging down their necks, 
and their bewildered looks, just like raving 
poets, pretending they are thinking; and 
them with an embroidered reticule that 
they call a tobacco sack, round their necks, 
or fastened in their button-holes, and a long 
walking-stick, with a painted china bowl at 

294 EVELYN. 

the end of it, in their mouths ; and doing 
nothing but drinking great cans of nasty 
beer, and puffing smoke into your face, and 
then staring with their great wild eyes, just 
as if they were saying, ' How do you like 
that?^ Upon my word, my opinion is, that 
if these fellows learn anything, it is a shame 
they don't teach them manners too." 

" Why," I said, " there might be a diffi- 
culty there ; for I have heard of an adver- 
tisement that once appeared in a little school- 
room window of your country, with this post- 
cript, ' Them as larns manners, twopence 
more.' " 

" Well, my dear, if it did cost a little 
more, it wouldn't be money thrown away. 
But if you were to hear my nephew talking 
of the great professors he has seen here, 
why maybe you'd think it no wonder about 
the others. Do you know that some of them 
live in a room that's so black with tobacco 
smoke, you couldn't see to the end of it ; 
and their hair is all wild, and their faces 
yellow, and there they are shut up with 
musty books and dusty papers, and T de- 
clare, I think their thoughts must be as 
musty and dusty and smoky as all about 

EVELYN. 295 

them is, for I'm sure no one could make 
head or tail out of what I have heard my 
nephew read ; you just feel as if you were 
in a dream at the end of all ; and you begin 
to think that maybe you have been dream- 
ing all your life, and yet that there would 
be no manner of use in wakening : and 
there is a great, great heap of words, that I 
declare do not tell you anything at all, nor 
teach you how to be a bit better yourself, nor 
how to make any creature a bit better. And 
yet they do nothing but write, write, and 
read and read, and think and think/"' 

" And perhaps you think they avouM be 
better, and do better, if they would act, 
act?" I said, laughing. 

" To be sure I do, my dear ; they wouldn't 
write such strange, useless dreams then, take 
my word for it. But I must tell you the 
way I set these Sabbath-breakers a good 

" You see, my nephew had stayed with 
those aifected-looking creatures they call 
students, and the young lady who is under 
my care had gone with some friends she had 
with her then, but who have left us now, to 
see some place or other, I forget what, so 

296 EVELYN. 

Patrick and I were left to act for ourselves. 
She left us directions written on a card, and 
told us we could get on so as to spend the 
Sunday in Frankfort, where there is an Eng- 
lish church. So when we were alone, I said 
to Patrick, says I, ' Now we are left to act 
for ourselves, and we'll set these people a 
good example, and teach them how they 
should observe the Sabbath.' But, says Pa- 
trick, 'How will you do that, when you cannot 
speak to them ?' 'Oh !' says I, 'I'll teach them 
by actions, — that is the best teaching; besides, 
I have learned enough French to manage 
very well. So to-morrow will be Saturday,' 
says I, ' and we'll get to Frankfort in time to 
be settled for the Sunday, that we may spend 
it properly.' Well, the next day we went off; 
and a fine piece of work we had, for there 
was my nephew's luggage, and the young 
lady's, and our own, and we had only the 
card to go by, and the landlord, and I don't 
know how many porters, had a fine fuss. 
At last we got to the railway, and came to 
Frankfort ; and then there was all the fuss 
over again ; but a porter took our card, and 
got us three carriages, and we drove off to 
the hotel. It was about half-past one o'clock, 

EVELYN. 297 

and Patrick said it was a very fine town, 
but there seemed very little business in 
it, and it looked a deal quieter than 

" So when we got to the hotel, I do 
assure you the landlord came running out 
to meet us, and he so fine, and all the 
waiters looking so smart, that I was ashamed 
to speak to them. Well, after a while, when 
we were in our room, a waiter came and 
made a speech ; and I said to him, ' What do 
you mean ?' and then he said 'Table dliote,' for 
table d'hote means, dinner is on the table ; 
so we went down stairs to our dinner, and 
you know here you must eat fifty dishes, 
and have twenty plates changed, before you 
can get anything you like, for they bring in 
a leg of mutton or a piece of roast beef for 
dessert, so that nearly two hours were spent 
at our dinner ; but when we got back to our 
room, Patrick was saying how much plea- 
santer it was to sit over one's glass of wine, 
or something else, you know, by oneself, 
than to be fed like the beasts of the Zoolo- 
gical Gardens, altogether at one hour, and 
be made to eat as much as would do for half- 
a-dozen dinners ; but I said, ' Patrick,' says I, 
o 3 



' no matter what other customs we conform 
to, only let us show them we'll keep the 
Sabbath as Ave do at home, and not conform 
in that to their heathenish ways.' So then, 
I looked round for our luggage, that I mio-ht 
get our clean things out ; and it wasn't in 
the room. I rang the bell, and the waiter 
came, but not until I rang two or three 
times ; so as I knew the word they called 
luggage, I said to him 'Baggage;' and he 
came up close to me, and spoke a good deal ; 
but I only said ' Baggage.' 

" So at last he opened the door and made a 
bow, and stood for me to walk out, and 
Patrick said he thought he wanted me to go 
and show him the luggage. Well, he took 
me down stairs to a lumber-room, and there 
was all the luggage piled up, and a great 
deal of other things over it. So I touched 
all of ours with my hand, and told him it 
must go up stairs. He understood me, for 
I pointed with my hand ; but he said, « De- 
mang, madame, demang.' ' No, no,' I said, 
' no demang for me ; ' for T knew that 
demang was to-morrow, and that the fellow 
wanted to put off his work to the Sabbath ; 
so I said ' No, no ; no demang.' Well, after 

EVELYN. 299 

a great piece of work, the landlord himself 
came, and he sent the waiter to look for 
another man, and we had the luggage all 
carried up stairs. When it was all in at 
last, I put my hand in my pocket, — and if I 
had not lost my keys ! not a bit of them was 
to be found. 

" ' Well, Patrick,' said I, ' there's no use 
fretting, these boxes must be opened.' 

" ' Wait till Monday,' said he ; ' we are 
strangers here, and it's no matter about our 
best clothes.' 

" ' No, Patrick,' said I, ' I'll do abroad as 
I do at home, on the Sunday at least, and 
set these people a good example. I'll get 
out your clean things, and my own too.' 

" I rang the bell again, and again, and 
again ; at last the waiter came, and really he 
looked a little cross ; and then Patrick 
thought he should help me in speaking, and 
so he put his hand on the boxes, and took 
the key of the door, and made as if he threw 
it out of the window, to show the keys were 
lost ; and the man, stupid as he was, under- 
stood that. But still the fellow kept saying 
' Demang, demang ;' but 'No demang for me,' 
I said ; ' I'll sanction no Sabbath-breaking.' 

300 EVELYN. 

So then, I recollected that in Dublin they 
called an evening party a soirry ; and I put 
my hand on the trunk, and said distinctly, 
' Dis soirry,' with the greatest determin- 
ation. ' Dis soirry,' says I. So, after some 
time, a fine gentleman, in a yellow waist- 
coat, and with a gold chain, came up with a 
pick-lock. I was really frightened to see 
him, and to think of all the expense it would 
be to have such a grand person to pick the 
locks of the trunks. However, he did it 
just as well as any sooty blacksmith, and I 
really believe did not charge a bit more. 
When it was over, however, I said to Pat- 
rick, ' Well, my dear,' says I, ' I think we 
shall triumph over them, and show them how 
we keep the Sabbath.' Then I wanted a 
fire to air the clothes, for I never let any 
one put on anything without airing ; and 
after a while I rang again, and I assure you 
I was sorry to see that good, resf)ectable- 
looking waiter's face ; it appeared to us that 
there was only himself in the house, and 
when he came to us again, it had grown 
quite cross. 

" I was unwilling to give him so much 
trouble ; and to cut the matter short, I 

EVELYN. 301 

looked at him resolutely and said, 'Fou.' 
He stared, and quite frowned, but did not 
say a word. My nephew had trouble enough 
afterwards to teach me how I ought to have 
said the word, for he told me ' fou ' meant 
fool, but when it is said mincing-like, it 
means fire. So the poor waiter stared ; but 
when I put my hand on the stove, he made 
the queerest face, and went away. 

" Then a woman came and made a fire, and 
I put all the things to air ; but the room 
was so stifling, we could not endure it, and so 
we w^ent out to take a little walk, and 
Patrick took the card, with the name of the 
hotel, that we might find our way back. 

*' Well, it's a fact, I never did see such 
streets, such fine-dressed people, such beau- 
tiful carriages, every one seemed astir ; and 
Patrick says, says he, ' Oh ! this is quite a dif- 
ferent town to what we came into at half- 
past one o'clock to-day ; it's alive now, and 
upon my word I think it looks as gay as 
Dublin ; only there are not so many beggars 
and frieze coats, and carriages and horses, 
in it.' 

" So we were walking on, making our 
observations, when a little boy came up to 

302 EVELYN. 

US, and he spoke English just in the way I 
first spoke to you on that superstitious moun- 
tain ; we understood him quite well, and 
were glad to get any one to speak at all, so 
as we could understand ; and the little fel- 
low said he had got two tickets for the opera, 
and he and his friend could not go, and he 
wanted to sell them, and a great singer, 
Viardot Garcia, he called her, was to be there. 

" I did not think it right to go to the opera, 
but I did not know what it was ; and Patrick 
said he would like to see it, just for once ; 
and 'You know,' he said, 'as it costs so little 
we can come out if we find it is not proper.' 

" So we went in; and I do assure you, we 
were so amused, and found it all so droll, we 
stayed till it was over. 

" But when we got back, I said, ' Well, this 
is all very well, but we mustn't forget to- 
morrow is Sunday, Patrick.' 

" And to-morrow came ; and I was putting 
on my best gown and bonnet to go to church, 
and Patrick was dressed, and looking out of 
the window, when he says, 

" ' Well, my dear, I believe you are right ; 
but to be sure you are always right ; see now 
if Sunday isn't the busy day here.' 

"So I went to the window, and, upon my 

EVELYN. 303 

word, the carts were going about, and every 
shop open ; then I said, ' They must be Jews, 
Patrick ; for those shops were shut yesterday.' 

" * Ah, then, dear,' said he, ' could you 
have made a mistake, and yesterday be 

" So I cried out for shame of him to think 
such a thing ; but I told him he had better 
ring the bell, and ask ; for somehow my heart 
misgave me when I looked at the street. 

" When the waiter came in, Patrick said to 
me, that I must speak, as I knew French ; 
but for the life of me I could not think of 
the word for Sunday. 

" So Patrick, who is quick enough when he 
pleases, took a prayer-book, and his hat, and 
looked very demure, as if he was walking 
out to church ; but the waiter stared, and 
stared, and said nothing. So then Patrick 
fell down on his knees, and held up his 
joined hands, and began as if he was pray- 
ing ; but you would hardly believe it, when 
the stupid man saw that, he ran out of the 
room as if he was mad. Presently up comes 
the big landlord, his chest heaving and puf- 
fing; and Patrick, making sure that he 
would understand him, falls down on his 
knees before him, and holds up his hands. 

304 EVELYN. 

and begins mumbling and muttering over 
again. Off runs landlord, waiter, and porter, 
post-haste, as if a madman was after them ; 
and away they ran to an English gentleman's 
room, and told him, I suppose, some frightful 
story, for back they came. Englishman and 
all, and the Englishman said, very gravely, 

" ' What is the matter V 

" ' I want to know if this is Sunday,' says 

" 'Why, Sir, the landlord said you had gone 
mad,' said the gentleman. ' No, Sir ; if that 
is all the madness, I can cure it. This is 
Monday ; yesterday was Sunday, Sir.' 

" Then he said something in their own 
gibberish to the landlord ; and he lifted his 
shoulders almost over his head, and they all 
went away. So, my dear, that was the way 
I set a good example, and taught them 
how to spend the Sabbath. And to think 
of going to the opera, too ! a place I never 
was in, in my life, before ; and that it should 
prove to be Sunday : but you see, my dear, it 
was all their own fault, not mine." 

I was sorry Evelyn had not been present 
to hear this exquisite little history ; but 
while I was thinking how I could make an 
abrupt retreat from the suddenly loosened 

EVELYN. 305 

tongue, the door gently opened, and with a 
noiseless step came in one who looked a 
" lady of the land." The tall graceful figure, 
the neck tlirown a little back, the dark hair 
arranged in a circlet on the beautiful Grecian- 
formed head, the dark-grey eyes, the intel- 
lectual forehead, and full, yet not florid com- 
plexion, were what I had seen before, and 
involuntarily I said, 

" It is, is it not. Miss ? " 

" Yes," said Geraldine, with her own truly 
fascinating smile, " and it was you we heard 
speaking on the Brocken, and you passed 
us with that lovely girl ; I thought so, but 
you were out of sight before I could be 
sure whether I might claim an acquaintance. 
Let me make amends for lost time, and 
beg of you and your friend to join our tea- 
table d V Anglaise ; I came to summon you," 
she added, nodding her head to the old 

" Come, dear ; say you'll come," whispered 
the good woman, touching my shoulder slily 
with hers, " it'll make a bit of a change for 
you ; and you can talk to me, you know, all 
the time, or I'll talk to you." 

" Thank you ! then I will come, if Evelyn 

306 EVELYN. 



Evelyn did come ; and the result of that 
tea-table cl VAnglaise was, that we all started 
off together the next morning to the deso- 
late region of Clausthal, the highest town of 
the Hartz, a mining district, where little, if 
any, corn is grown, the cold, which scarcely 
allows it to ripen, rendering the internal 
produce of the earth the chief object of 

From here, engaging two light carriages, 
we passed through the pleasant valley of 
the Oker, one of the most picturesque of 
those to be found among the Hartzgeberge. 

The scenery was varied by the effect of 
the early and sparkling morning sun, now 
shining on dark granite cones, now tinging 
gloomy pines with light, then glancing on 
the meandering Oker, or smiling on the 

EVELYN. 807 

white stem and quivering leaves of the tall 
birch. Like the playful effects of those 
glancing beams, were the coruscations of 
our new companion's genius ; the genius of 
his ill-fated land — an anomaly among all 
lands — soft and wild, and bright and fitful, 
playing with its own fire, and sporting amid 
the chains that shackled it ; revealing 
gloom, and dashing it aside with an elec- 
tric spark, that made you forget it had 

O'Donnell — his name will tell you he was 
an Irishman — represented the character of 
his country in its best, its loveliest, perhaps 
its genuine form ; without its recklessness, 
without that madness which has surely 
sprung from its despair. Amidst this lovely 
scene, we passed on our road to 

" the U- 

niversity of Gottingen," 

which he wished to see. His conversation, 
whether amusing or intellectual, playful or 
profound, might have beguiled a journey 
over the Landes, so that it is not wonderful 
we all exclaimed " So soon ! " when we 
stopped at the hotel of Gottingen. 

However, notwithstanding the nobler 

308 EVELYN, 

feasts we had enjoyed, we were all quite 
ready for something to eat; and when 
O'Donnell came, in serious-comic manner, 
to announce the request of the landlord that 
we would join the table dliote of, I believe, 
two or three hundred students, and some 
professors, of the said 

niversity of Gottingen," 

we could not reject the offer of a ready-pre- 
pared meal, knowing that those who, especi- 
ally in the more out-of-the-way parts of Ger- 
many, do so, are liable to wait longer than they 
like. It was a curious spectacle ; we were 
the only women-kind that varied it. Many 
of the students had their cheeks hideously 
gashed or seamed, from sabre-cuts in duels, 
and, I believe, few could boast of less than 
half-a-dozen marks of honour on his person. 
There were some English youths among 
them ; one, who was studying chemistry, 
took Mr. O'Donnell off aftel- dinner to the 

As for us, there was little either to in- 
terest or amuse in the silent, grass-grown 
streets, or their sausage, pipe, and tobacco 
shops ; but an evening of repose is no slight 

EVELYN. 309 

privilege when travelling, so we enjoyed it ; 
and, as correspondents say, we got safe to 

I have indeed been retracing our route, 
for I meant to have begun at the spot 
where I took up my pen, that is, in Dresden. 

We had gone to the notorious picture- 
gallery, which Frederick the Great, when 
his cannon had laid the rest of the town 
in ruins, asked the conquered electress of 
Saxony leave to visit. But even that great 
robber of works of art. Napoleon, spared the 
gallery of Dresden. 

We were standing before that wonderful 
picture, which, once beheld, is seen for ever, 
— -Raphael's Madonna. The adoring Pope, 
and beautiful St. Barbara, are soon for- 
gotten ; but that inspired and glorious form, 
soaring to its native skies with the lovely 
infant on her arm, which she seems to have 
snatched from the pollutions of earth, and 
to bear in triumph to heaven, remains an 
ever distinct picture in the mind. 

Although we have an artist among us, I 
do not mean to note down a single attempt 
at criticism on works of art. There have 
been blunderers and critics enough ; I must 

g»Si >'M.'"*"#*>*?"»"i'i11W»lMiiiiiiwiiiiii|)«i|wwn^ 

810 EVELYN. 

also leave to artists the technicalities of the 
tribe ; I only profess to feel the power of 
genius, but often cannot explain either why 
or wherefore. 

, I saw Evelyn's almost adoring gaze on that 
picture, and as we withdrew to the end of 
the room, and sat down before it, my 
thoughts were almost unconsciously ut- 
tered : 

" She is the Saviour ; she is the Redeemer ; 
she has led captivity captive, and received 
gifts for men ! " 

Evelyn and Albert O'Donnell both looked 
at me with something like wonder. 

" Was not that idea in the painter's mind? " 
I asked them ; " or did he not, in that resplen- 
dent figure, embody rather the idea of his 
church ? She carries the infant Jesus in her 
arms to God, a child in all the radiant inno- 
cence, yet feebleness, of humanity ; but she 
ascends from earth in all the graceful majesty 
of the Queen of Heaven, as if saying to the 
Eternal Father, ' I have finished the work 
that thou gavest me to do.' Is it for the 
child, or the mother, that the demand shall 
be made, ' Lift up your heads, ye gates, 
and be ye lift up, ye everlasting doors, and 

EVELYN. 311 

the king of glory shall come in?' Can we 
look at that marvellous picture, and not feel 
that the God is lost, — the woman is deified ?" 

" It is a beautiful superstition," said 
O'Donnell, " a lovely and most poetic form 
of idolatry." 

" I do not like that sentiment," Evelyn 
whispered to me. "I agree with you" — 
speaking more loudly than timidity allowed 
her to do in expressing her dissent — " I 
agree with you, that the Church of Rome 
has gone too far, and pushed veneration into 
idolatry ; but then how much too short have 
we come? Fear of the superstitions of 
Rome has surely driven us into revolting 

" There is something so touching to the 
heart in that sense of sympathy which may 
exist between the afflicted mother, who 
received at once the tidings that she should 
be highly favoured, blessed among women, 
and that a sword should pierce through her 
own soul also, and the afflicted sufferers of 
the world, who know not and see not the 
cause of their sufferings. Oh ! there was a 
wonderful mystery in that life, before which 
our souls should bow in reverence, instead 

312 EVELYN. 

of rashly and rudely levelling it to our com- 
mon apprehensions." 

Geraldine, who was seated at her other 
side, turned and looked earnestly at the 
speaker : then putting her hand on Evelyn's 

" True," she said ; " great is the mystery 
of godliness. God was manifest in the flesh, 
that by taking our nature upon Him, He 
miffht enable us to take His into ours ; and 
so, step by step, raise and restore us to that 
from which we had fallen. What avails 
that divine and human unity, if the medium 
by which it was effected, the ever-blessed 
mother of the human, supply the lost link 
between God and man, and yield the sym- 
pathy which our nature requires ? He, the 
Son, and not the mother, is the Being who 
can be touched with the feeling of our infir- 
mities. But, with you, I feel no less the 
gross irreverence which a rebound from the 
contrary error has produced." 

Evelyn smiled, as if she had found a kin- 
dred mind, and touching the hand that rested 
affectionately on hers, whispered that she 
must speak to her again. 

"The history of art," said O'Donnell, 


EVELYN. 813 

"appears to me one of the most interesting, 
and perhaps unfailing, exponents of that of 
creeds. It is, I believe, admitted, that for 
the first three centuries of the Christian era, 
no representation of the Virgin is known to 
have existed. The first rude attempts at 
that subject were as clearly indicative of the 
belief of the Church then, as the multiplied 
madonnas of a later and a more glorious era 
in art came to be. There appears to have 
been an exceeding beauty in the early and 
poetic idea which described the holy mother 
as entirely veiled, appearing merely as an 
accessary to the holier child ; and this not 
only explained the position assigned to her 
by the early Church, but harmonized well 
with her own meek words, ' Behold the 
handmaid of the Lord ; be it unto me ac- 
cording to Thy word.' " 

" Add to these," said Geraldine, " the 
words of her magnificent hymn, ' My spirit 
hath rejoiced in God my Saviour, for he 
hath regarded the low estate of his hand- 
maiden. For behold, from henceforth all 
generations shall call me blessed.' Yet there 
have been persons who, strangely enough, 
deemed it a relic of Popery to call her blessed, 

VOL. I. p 

314 EVELYN. 

or to speak of her otherwise than as 

" There is a picture here, perhaps more in 
accordance with such sentiments as yours," 
he answered ; " La Notte, of Correggio : will 
you come and see it?" 

We followed him to another room, and 
stood in silence before that most exquisite 
conception. The Night. It is night, yet 
the spiritual morn is breaking. The infant 
Saviour is born into the world's gross dark- 
ness : the light of the world is come ; and 
this is typified by a radiancy emanating from 
the body, and shining on the holy face of 
the virgin mother, who bends over it in 
adoring love, while another woman turns 
aside hers, unable to bear the light of hea- 
ven. Above them angels are hovering. At 
a distance the day-spring from on high is 
dawning on a group of the shepherds, to 
whom glad tidings of great joy are brought. 
It is the typical embodiment of divine and 
mysterious truth. 

They say the effect of the effulgence is 
vulgarized by the labours of picture-cleaners. 
But it is one of those works of genius which 
leave an unobliterated impression on the 

EVELYN. 315 

Evelyn turned to Mr. O'Donnell with a 
countenance almost as irradiated as that we 
had been looking at. " Were you not right 
in thinking that the history of art is one of 
the best exponents of that of creeds ? Here 
the glory of the Virgin is that reflected from 
her incarnate God. True, she alone is able 
to bear the radiancy undazzled ; but does not 
that circumstance place her in the position 
the Church should assign her, blessed above 
all women, but deriving her glory from her 
God ? " 

" I think," he answered, smiling at her 
enthusiasm, "that from these two pictures 
the world might learn, if it could learn such 
a lesson, to silence the clamour of bigotry 
and prejudice, to cease to judge on a part 
until the entire is known. The reverse of a 
medal generally makes its obverse more sig- 
nificant. Raphael and Correggio both em- 
bodied the popular creed of their Church, 
and both at the same epoch ; but from each 
of these embodiments a different opinion 
upon it could be derived." 

" I fear," she said, looking at him with 
an expression of almost childish simplicity, 
" I fear you are what is termed a liberal." 
p 2 

316 EVELYN. 

He laughed. 

" In the best sense of the term, perhaps I 
am : does it alarm you ? " 

" Yes. I abhor it. Liberalism and re- 
volutionalism go hand in hand ; and infidelity 
is at once their result and their spring." 

" And are marching on |pretty quickly over 
Europe," he rejoined : " by consenting to 
admit railroads into his dominions, the new 
Pope has done more than he is perhaps 
aware of to abrogate for ever the iron rule 
of his predecessors, and to draw the Eternal 
City from the repose of the middle ages. 
He appears to be exactly ' a man of the 
times :' his free pardon of Pope Gregory's 
enemies has made him a merely popu- 
lar man, rather than the mysterious demi- 
god of ancient belief. We may not for very 
long have a war of tongues and pens carried 
on against the superstitions which have re- 
placed ' the old mythology of Greece and 

" Infidelity," said Evelyn, " is worse than 
superstition ; it is fast superseding it." 

At this moment my old lady of the 
Brocken came close to my ear and said, 

" Are these Papist pictures, my dear?" 

EVELYN. 317 

" Ask your nephew," I whispered. 

" Och ! dear, sure it's always laughing- at 
me he is. Poor boy ! I believe, verily, that 
he does not know the difference between 
them himself, genius though he is. But are 
the people here Pajjists or Protestants?"' 

" The king is a Catholic." 

" Oh ! that's the reason of it, then. Well, 
if it isn't a shame to see that picture in a 
Christian land ; but they are not Christians : 
with flames coming out of the child's body !" 
She nodded back her head, raised up her 
hands, and turned away. 

Well, thought I to myself, there is nothing 
much more edifying than to hear a diversity 
of opinion. 

318 EVELYN. 


It was evening when we approached the 
ancient 'capital of Bohemia by the long 
avenue bordered with the greatest quantity 
of cherries I ever saw : the women cherry- 
carriers, with their baskets curiously fitted 
to their backs, were returning from their 
day's sale in the town. We drew up on 
the top of a high hill, and looked down 
on that remarkable capital, now a capi- 
tal no longer, yet possessing a history so 
full of interest and splendour. The Hrad- 
schin, high up as it is above the other 
buildings, was below us ; above it still, rose 
the heights whereon the fire-worshippers of 
the East had in other times adored their 
deity ; and up the sides of the basin in 
which the city lies, did the sloping buildings 
ascend ; towers, minarets, domes, and spires 
were gleaming in a proud and dull Asiatic 

EVELYN. 319 

splendour in the declining sun that sparkled 
in the waters of the Moldau, which divides 
the basin-shaped valley nearly in two. 

Of all the ancient capitals of Europe, 
Prague has to me been the most interesting : 
Rome, perhaps, always excepted. In Rome 
you must live in the memory of the past, as 
the Romans do when they are at peace, and 
do not aspire to a future ; and in Prague we 
are in the middle ages, as they are called, far 
back in centuries gone by ; though how long 
these are to be the middle ages, this world 
as yet saith not. 

That Prague was once a capital seems in- 
scribed on every tower, and gate, and proud 
ruined palace of its once proud nobility. 
Now it is a provincial town of Austria. But 
even then, when we trod its streets, and 
sighed over its fall, the fire was smouldering ; 
the torch only was wanted, and the fiame 
was ready. We stopped at the Schwarzes 
Ross, a fine-looking hotel, where we got the 
greatest profusion of caraway seeds imagin- 
able : they are, I believe, a component part 
of Bohemian cookery, for the potatoes, boiled 
as in England, were always sprinkled with 

320 EVELYN. 

The great old bridge which crosses the 
Moldau arrested our footsteps to examine 
it. A more curious piece of what may now 
well be called antiquity can hardly be seen : 
not only defended by embattled towers, tetes 
du pont, at each end, but additionally guarded 
by the statues, larger than life, of twenty- 
eight saints, with crucifixes and chapels 
besides. Gustavus Adolphus, being a here- 
tic, may well have planted his cannon in 
vain against that old tower : but it was a 
brave Jesuit, however, who took the office 
of St. Nepomuk, and closed the portcullis, 
which saved the passage of the bridge. A 
purely Protestant imagination, like that of 
our now dear lady of the Brocken, could 
hardly picture to itself the antique aspect of 
this bridge. In the centre of the parapet 
five fine gilt stars commemorate, in the midst 
of the saints, &c., the form of the flames 
which played in the waters of the Moldau 
underneath them, until the miracle having 
excited attention, the river was dragged, and 
the body of St. John Nepomuk was found. 

" But why was he drowned?" Evelyn de- 
manded, with that look of simplicity which 
often makes more learned people smile. 

EVELYN. 321 

" Because King Wenceslaus was suspi- 
cious of his queen, and wanted him to reveal 
the secrets she had told him in confession," 
said Mr. O'Donnell, with arch gravity. 

" And he would not, to save his life ? " she 

" Not even to save his life ; and see what 
honour he has come to by being able to keep 
a secret ! Some slanderers would say there is 
no female saint in the calendar for such a 
cause. St. John Nepomuk's statue not only 
defends the bridge of Prague, but he himself 
has become the patron saint of all bridges 
in Catholic Christendom." 

I do not know if Evelyn attended to this 
piece of information ; she had turned away, 
and was looking over the parapet. I guessed 
her thoughts, but wished to divert them. 

" You do not surely believe this old story?" 
I said. " Why, Evelyn, some people say 
that Catholic John Nepomuk was merely 
substituted for Protestant John Huss, who 
was killed by fire, not water. They say that 
the Bohemians held his memory in such 
esteem, that the Jesuits, when compulsorily 
established here at the downfal of Pro- 
testantism, and of the kingdom, brought up 
p 3 

322 EVELYN. 

the legend of the royal confessor, and had 
him canonized three hundred years after his 
death. So, perhaps, like many other things 
that cause a great deal of trouble, the secret 
was not worth what it has cost." 

Everywhere here we see the remains of the 
Protestant struggle, and proofs of the fond- 
ness with which the memory of the Bohe- 
mians clung to it, notwithstanding its cruel 
consequences to their land. Everywhere, too, 
do we find evidences of the zeal with which 
Austria sought to obliterate the hold it had 
taken on the affections of the people. 

It is curious to see, in a land where the 
Austrian police are more vigilant supervisors 
of education and opinion than the clergy of 
Rome, how carefully preserved, and even 
proudly shown, are the relics of its Protestant 

In a monastery there is to be seen a por- 
trait of Ziska (the one-eyed, as he was nick- 
named, though he afterwards lost two), with 
his savage club. In the Theological Academy, 
once the Jesuit College, are the Theses of 
Huss, written by his own hand ; and a splen- 
didly illustrated Liturgy, used by his follow- 
ers ; among the coloured paintings of which 

EVELYN. 323 

appear, one above the other, the three re- 
formers — WicklifFe, in the act of strikhig 
light from a flint ; Huss, beneath him, blow- 
ing the spark ; and Luther, below, hold- 
ing up the blazing torch in his powerful 

Jerome of Prague visited Wickliffe in 
England, and brought back those doctrines, 
which, unhappily, through the results of 
bigotry and intolerance on the part of the 
oppressing power, and of misguided fanaticism 
on that of their wild professors, were made 
the means of plunging Bohemia and its 
capital into all the miseries, losses, and savage 
demolitions caused by the Hussite, or, more 
projDerly, by the Ziska war. It is a singular 
circumstance, that the Bohemian controversy 
with Rome commenced only one century 
after the conversion of that nation to Christi- 
anity ; Bohemia became Christian in the 
ninth century, and controversy began before 
the close of the tenth. 

When Austria triumphed over the ambi- 
tious and fascinating daughter of our James I., 
and her weaker-minded husband, in the 
seventeenth century, that controversy ceased ; 
Bohemia and Protestantism fell together. 

324 EVELYN. 

But are tliey extinct ? Who can now say 
what will not be ? 

The Hradschin is a fine-sounding name, 
which loses its charm when we find it is the 
Bohemian for steep little hill ; but the 
Hradschin, with its curious, half-finished old 
cathedral, is a most imposing and chivalric- 
looking mass of building. Here indeed may 
be found a study for the artist, a museum 
for the lover of curiosities, a scene for the 
romance of history, a thinking-place for the 
reflective mind. Methinks, in the precincts 
of that singular cathedral, Walter Scott 
might have lingered for awhile, waited on by 
the genius of the past. As you tread the 
neglected court that separates it from the 
ancient palace of the Bohemian kings, and 
from the more modern one erected by the 
foreign rulers who succeed them, you feel, 
without being told, that there is an air of 
subjugation around you ; and that the guide 
who walks at your side, and tells you, in his 
own manner, of things that were, and are not, 
is quite alive to Solomon's admonition re- 
specting the danger of a " thing that hath 
wings" carrying the matter, if he should 
utter too carelessly the sentiments that are 
now becoming scarcely repressed in Prague. 

EVELYN. 825 

But, while separated from my party I was 
more engrossed in past glories than amused 
by the relics they have left, my old lady, 
who made use of me as a sort of traveller's 
dictionary whenever she was puzzled, came 
up confidentially and broke my reverie with 
the following inquiry : 

" Just tell me, dear, didn't you say on the 
bridge that the king, who was here long 
ago, burned John Huss in the fire and 
drowned him in the water at once ? Maybe 
I didn't quite understand you, for it was 
strange enough ; but I'm sure my nephew 
was telling both of fire and water ; and then 
you said it was John Huss. Now, Albert 
says he is here too, buried with forty hun- 
dred-weio'ht of silver over him. He was a 


o-reat man, to be sure !" 

" Oh ! the saint who, they say, lies under 
this load of silver, is a Papist saint," I re- 
plied, avoiding explanatory details. 

" A saint ! the poor deluded creatures ! 
and they have wasted forty hundred -weight 
of silver over a Popish saint !" 

The silver, however, on St. John Nepo- 
muk's tomb, is sadly tarnished, or, surrounded 
with burning lights, its effect Avould be most 
dazzling. The tomb is surrounded by huge, 

326 EVELYN. 

knobbed rails of silver ; the silver coffin is 
borne up by silver angels, as " large as life," 
and, if silver angels could hover with sus- 
pended wings on air, we might imagine these 
were self-suspended. Within the precious 
coffin, enclosed in one of crystal, reposes 
what is called the body of the faithful con- 
fessor. But Mr. O'Donnell took a rather 
worldly view of this rich tomb, and said, 
" I wonder if a war of liberty were ever to 
occur again in Bohemia, would this silver 
be converted into ' good crown-pieces,' after 
the pious fashion of the olden time ? But 
if you wish to see an old-fashioned robe, 
there is one, we are told, in the sacristy 
made by Maria Theresa, for the service of 
the priests, out of her bridal dress. And there 
is one relic there which you," he said, look- 
ing at Evelyn, "will be interested in, — the 
tongue of Nepomuk, which, as a reward for 
keeping a secret, never decayed, and is still 
to be seen just as it was five hundred years 

Aware that 

" Many a word at random spoken 
May soothe, or wound, a heart that's broken," 

I interfered by saying, that such a relic as 
St. John Nepomuk's tongue was purely ridi- 

EVELYN. 327 

culous, while others were painful by casting 
a shade of that ridicule on the most solemn 
and sacred of subjects. Here, for instance, 
is a bit of the sponge, which we are told was 
" dipped in hyssop and put upon a reed ;" 
and one of the thorns that mocked the brow 
of him w^hose kingdom was not of this world. 

The plan of this church was never com- 
pleted, but the chapels are astonishingly rich, 
and tell of a species of piety which has, pro- 
bably for ever, fled from our world. The 
walls of one in particular are inlaid with 
jasper, agate, and other precious stones. 

In few countries have the people displayed 
a more religious tendency than in Bohemia ; 
and even now, when they are seen almost 
-everywhere rejecting spiritual control, and 
manifesting irreverence for all that was once 
deemed a constituted authority, the capital 
here witnesses a scene seldom beheld out of 

The festival of St. John Nepomuk, who 
takes his title from the little town that gave 
him birth in the fourteenth century, is an- 
nually held in the month of May, when the 
priests have a hard day's work in confessing 
and shriving the devotees who resort to the 
chapel on the bridge. If the legend of the 

328 EVELYN. 

saint were really substituted for an attach- 
ment to the martyr Huss, how curious it 
might be to trace back the gradual change 
of sentiment, and by an ingenious artifice, 
find superstition implanted in the soil of 

The palaces of most of the Bohemian 
nobility, although generally as deserted as 
the great houses that once were in Dublin, 
still remain as they were ; Wallenstein, or 
Waldstein's, for which the site of one hun- 
dred dwellings was occupied, we went to ; 
and having seen what remained of that 
splendour which is now as a gorgeous fairy 
tale to the ear that hears of it, and looked at 
the stuffed charger, and at the bath of the 
man who held an emperor in his power, we 
went out to the garden and sat in a little pa- 
vilion, and Albert O'Donnell, looking round 
him as if entranced, said, with wonderful 

" Sic transit gloria muudi." 

" Yes," said Geraldine, " we say that again 
and again ; and then each in his own way, 
little or great, pursues that glory as the 
child runs to catch the rainbow." 

EVELYN. 329 

She knew the mind she spoke to, though 
we did not, and the look she met in answer 
from those dark, too brilliant eyes, told her 
that words, to us so insignificant, were un- 

Now, to exemplify that often-quoted 
motto, let us go down to the Judenstadt, or 
Jews' Town, in Prague, and see there a por- 
tion of the people whose forefathers raised 
the Temple of Jerusalem. 

Here resides the oldest colony of that 
extraordinary people, whose doom it was to 
be scattered among all nations, yet to amal- 
gamate with none. Modern infidelity would 
repeal the decree. The Jews, the chosen of 
God, too long a by-word, a hissing, and re- 
proach, have in great degree cast off their zeal 
for the faith for which their fathers endured 
the most cruel persecution that cupidity 
and bigotry could excite. Now they would 
merge their strange non-nationality, and be- 
come a part of the nations among whom 
they reside ; they would have a voice in their 
legislatures, and an influence on their coun- 
cils : we see them in France, in Prussia, 
Austria, England, even in Italy, in Rome 
itself, assuming a position that, since the fall 

330 EVELYN. 

of Jerusalem, they never held ; and this, 
perhaps, at the sacrifice of those principles 
to which their former generations clung, 
through torture, robbery, and death. Not 
that any sacrifice has been demanded ; no, 
our times require neither steadfastness nor 
sacrifice in this respect ; but because the 
infidelity of the age has deeply infected them 
also, and political influence, not religious 
liberty, is the object they would attain. We 
honour the Jew for his past tenacity of faith ; 
but the present age appears to open a new 
era to the Jew also. 

But what a wonderful place is this Juden- 
stadt ! The Jews of Prague are said to 
have been settled in that locality w^hen the 
legions of Rome were on the Danube, and 
to have then traded in Pagan flesh, buying 
and selling slaves. There is something in 
the aspect of the wonderful old creatures, 
who burrow round the vicinity of their 
strange and ancient burying-ground and 
synagogue, which makes them appear coeval 
with their wandering countrymen ; you can 
hardly believe they ever were young, yet 
you can hardly think they ever will die. 
There is a perpetuity of existence on their 


EVELYN. 331 

dry, hard, withered physiognomies and stone- 
like figures, that seems to contradict the 
natural notion of a crumbling to dust. 

Their appearance is miserable ; when un- 
asked, I gave one of the old women some 
coppers she probably did not want, she re- 
ceived the alms with avidity, but the great 
black eyes and stone-coloured face looked up 
to me, as much as to say, What a fool you 
must be to part with money. 

The old man, who performed the office of 
sacristan, led us into the ancient synagogue, 
which, they say, dates further back than the 
twelfth century. It is a remakable place; 
its dust, dirt, and gloom appear to be sacred 
in the estimation of its preservers, and its 
aspect is in unison with that of the people 
around it ; with that of the dried-up, 
mummy-like old man who unfolded for us 
the rolls of the Holy Law, and displayed to 
us the old robes and breastplates of its 
priests, and showed us the pomegranates 
and bells, as if quite aware that to Christian 
eyes these once sacred things were a cu- 
riosity for which Christian silver could pay. 

And in harmony with this more living 
memorial of a great, old, never-expiring 

332 EVELYN. 

race, ever, like the Burning Bush, con- 
tinuing in the desert of life unconsumed, is 
the frightful burying-place of the children 
of Abraham at Prague. Heaped up, till 
its confined space can contain no more ; 
gaunt, bare, horrible stones alone meet 
the eye, marked with their own peculiar 
heraldry, a pair of raised hands, to desig- 
nate the tribe of Aaron, the high priest ; 
a pitcher, I think, for that of Levi. But 
the crooked, deformed, stunted old elder- 
trees, which were the only living thing in 
this place of Hebrew tombs, among the 
stones of which they forced their half- 
withered stems, appeared to us even hideously 
in character with the soil they sprang from. 
Instead of the flower-woven cross which 
imaginatively depicts faith and hope when 
hung by a survivor's hand over " the narrow 
house," a Jewish friend casts a stone on the 
tomb of the deceased whose grave is visited ; 
and thus, in this awful dwelling-place for 
the dead, unsightly piles add to the gaunt 
and dreary effect. 

Outside it, the immensely high, dark, 
mysterious-looking houses of the narrow 
streets, literally swarmed with occupants, 

EVELYN. 833 

whose faces bring- to your remembrance the 
strangest romance that this world has ever 
known — the History of the Jews. 

Now that a new, yet unopened chapter in 
that history is about to commence, what 
will be its nature ? Liberty, equality, and 
fraternity are now extended to the Jew ; 
will the faith that endured ages of persecu- 
tion unmoved, now fraternize with popular 
infidelity, or so-called liberalism ? 

The Jews of Prague, though almost anni- 
hilated in cruel persecutions, are now 10,000 
strong, and only the lower and poorer classes 
toil in these outer courts of the temple of 
mammon, and are dwellers in the Judenstadt. 
Austria extends her favour to the Jew. 

There have been some Rebeccas found 
among the Jewish maidens of Prague, to 
attend on wounded Ivanhoes. Rahel Varn- 
hagel says, in writing of the spectacle Prague 
presented during one of Napoleon's cam- 
paigns, " We have had, since the affair of 
Dresden, a countless number of wounded. 
These sons of misery lay by thousands 
crowded together, some in carts, some on 
the stones, under a pelting rain. The inha- 
bitants did as in the old patriarchal times, 

334 EVELYN. 

they bound them and fed them. One Jew^- 
ish maiden bound three hundred in one 

After our dinner we went to Sophien 
Insel, or Sophia's Island, a favourite evening 
resort for the higher classes of Prague. The 
chief attraction there was, to us, a splendid 
national band. On our way we called at the 
poste restante. Evelyn found a letter there, 
which had followed her from paste restante to 
poste restante all the way from Stockholm. 
It came, however, from Hungary; I saw 
that its reception rather agitated her, and 
said to myself that it was from her corre- 
spondent the priest. 

She forbore to open it until we entered 
that pretty island on the Moldau, laid out in 
shady walks, and possessing a great house of 
amusement and refreshment. Then, draw- 
ing me away both from the crowd and from 
the rest of our party, she sat with me on a 
bench half hidden in trees, a pleasant out- 
of-the-way sort of spot, and there began to 
peruse the epistle. 

While thus engaged, with her head bent 
down, and her thick lace veil accidentally 
dropping over one side of her face, she was 

EVELYN. 835 

unseen by, and did not herself observe, two 
persons who came along the walk at the 
side of which we were sitting-, and one of 
whom caught my attention. The lady was, 
I think, one of the most splendid, and cer- 
tainly the most remarkable woman I ever 
beheld ; with a step so proud, a gesture 
so haughty, she looked every inch a queen. 

Her beauty was of such a commanding 
nature, that I could not disobey its influ- 
ence. I was forced to gaze with all my 
eyes ; consequently, I only saw that her 
companion was a man, a male individual; 
but I never thought of observing whether 
he too was in outward form and bearing- 
superior to most of the species or not. The 
woman engrossed my admiration ; and, for- 
getting Evelyn and her letter, I exclaimed 
when she had passed, " What a splendid 
creature ! " 

Evelyn looked up, and only saw the pair 
disappearing among the trees. She grasped 
my arm, and its trembling pressure excited 
my nerves once more. 

" It is she ; I am sure it is she ! " Evelyn 
murmured : " let us go away." 

" Away, Evelyn ? Oh no, it is so pleasant 

336 EVELYN. 

" Pleasant ! wliere they are ? Well," she 
added, with more self-recollection, " to you 
and to others it may be pleasant, to me it 
is not so ; for recollections are now forced 
back upon me, which are of a very different 
character. Let me therefore return to the 
hotel in the carriage, which is waiting", it 
can come back in time to bring you all 
away, and do you stay and enjoy yourself. 
Do not oppose me in this ; I want to be 
alone, to read this letter. I have already 
seen enough of its contents to lead me to 
believe that the woman you have been ad- 
miring is the very last on earth I could bear 
to meet. I know her step, — that sweep of 
the proud figure." Evelyn shuddered, and 
paused. " Bohemia," she continued, " will 
not long be at rest ; the leaven is at work. 
What a strange breaking-up of the Austrian 
empire there will be ere long !" 


" You w^onder ; you upbraid me. But 
look at the people around us, the three 
nations at least, military and all, — Bohe- 
mians, Austrians, and Hungarians. Look 
at them, listen to the spirit that murmurs 
around us, and you need not wonder at words 

EVELYN. 337 

any observer might utter ; but besides per- 
sonal observation, I have learned from this 
letter that two persons are probably in 
Bohemia who certainly would not be here 
unless political excitement were at work. 
Let me go now to the carriage ; or come — 
yes, you will come with me there — I am so 
fearful of being alone." 

" I will go with you to the hotel." 
" No, thank you, kindest, for the pro- 
posal ; but I would rather be alone. I do 
not quite understand this letter; I read 
German writing with difficulty." 

I went over the bridge with Evelyn, and 
put her into the carriage. When it had 
rolled away with her, I turned to go back ; 
but a restive horse obstructed my passage, 
and frightened me not a little. A timid 
man, quite as much alarmed, was holding 
the bridle at its full length ; and the spirited 
animal, alarmed by the rapid passing off of 
the carriage, was plunging and leaping, and 
on the point of gaining its freedom, when 
forth, with a slow and steady step, walked 
the magnificent woman I had observed, and, 
looking full into the wildly flashing eyes of 
the rearing steed, took hold of the bit, 

VOL. I. Q 

338 EVELYN. 

planting herself, as I fancied, quite under its 
upraised fore-feet, and pushed it back with 
a firm hand that said, Submit! The crea- 
ture was quiet in an instant. 

I did not stay to see her resign her con- 
quest, but washing that women always had 
such power over all unruly monsters, and 
wondering at Evelyn's fear of such a person, 
I hastened on to rejoin my party. 

When we got back to our hotel, Albert 
O'Donnell, who happened, I know not why, 
to be leading the way, stopped short within 
sight of the saloon, and with that serious- 
comic look that so often gave a peculiar 
charm to his expressive eyes, whispered to us, 

" Is it a real, downright angel, or an 
actual, beautiful \voman ? " 

I looked on through the open door, and 
saw Evelyn standing just under the light 
that fell through the coloured glass of the 
upper part of the window like a glory on her 
head. Her hands were pressed upon her 
breast, and at her feet lay the open letter 
she had been deciphering. 

O'Donnell's words certainly signified no- 
thing, yet Geraldine looked thoughtfully at 
the speaker. 

EVELYN. 339 

As soon as Evelyn perceived me, she ran 
forward, and taking both my hands in hers, 
said aloud, and with more decision than 

" I must leave this, I must go on !" 
I had taken a lesson from the clever 
woman who sobered the runaway horse, so 
I looked steadily in Evelyn's rather impas- 
sioned countenance, in a way that plainly 
said, " Will you ? I have the rein." I am 
sure, poor thing, she felt the bit ; for, changing 
her tone, she added, 

" Do let me ; come, ah ! come with me !" 
Aunt Patrick put her head between ours : 
" She is right, dear, quite right," she whis- 
pered ; " it's the caraway seeds that have 
disagreed with her. We are sick of them 
too. Sure the potatoes is the only thing 
that can be eaten here, out of all their 
messes ; and they are so covered with cara- 
way seeds no living creature could touch 
them. Take her away, dear, or it's ill she'll 
be, and all of us too." 

During this speech, Geraldine had been 
reading Albert O'Donnell's only too intel- 
ligent eyes, and coming forward at its close, 
to Aunt Patrick's great joy, she said. 

340 EVELYN. 

" We too are ready to leave Prague ; let 
us go together to Vienna." 

" Vienna ! " screamed Evelyn, and drop- 
ping my hands, she put the tips of her own 
to her eyes ; " anything but that ! indeed, it 
would kill me." 

Geraldine turned a look of perfect wonder 
on Albert O'Donnell ; but he appeared even 
already to have understood something of 
poor Evelyn's mind, and instead of answer- 
ing that wondering appeal, he replied, as if 
he misinterpreted its meaning, 

" I have no wish to go to Vienna." 

" And I," said Geraldine, " know the 
Prater far better than Regent's Park. 
Where do you then wish to go to ? " she 
asked Evelyn. 

" To Rome." 

" Ah !" said Albert with a sigh, " I should 
be sorry to die before I had seen Rome." 

Geraldine more than echoed the sigh. 

" Let us then go on together," she con- 
cluded, " through Tyrol ; will you like 

" Oh yes !" and evidently unable to say 
more, Evelyn darted from the room. 

Hah ! said I to myself, for I had caught 

EVELYN. 341 

that exclamation from om* Irish artist, Ge- 
raldine fancies she sees what I too, I think, 
have seen, Mr. O'Donnell's admiration of my 
mysterious protegee. Well, is this to be a 
second Baron Oscar affair ? 

" But we must go and pack up again," 
cried Aunt Patrick: "Oh, dear! what a 


Printed by J. & H. COX (Brothers), 74 & 75, Great Queen Street, 
Lincoln's-Inn Fields. 


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