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Full text of "The every-day cook-book and encyclopedia of practical recipes"

SPECIAL COLLECTIONS IJj 



UNIVERSITY RESEARCH LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 

LOS ANGELES 



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THE 



EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK 



AMD 



ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL RECIPES 



BY 

MISS E. NEILL. 



ECONOMICAL, RELIABLE AND EXCELLED 



SAN FRANCISCO: 
EXAMINER-PRESS. 

1889. 



INDEX. 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST 
DISHES. 

PAGE. 

Yeast 131 

Plain White Family Bread 131 

Graham Bread 132 

Boston Brown Bread 132 

torn Bread '33 

Steamed Brown Bread 133 

Parker House Rolls 133 

French Rolls 133 

Buns 134 

Biscuits 143 

To Make Rusks 134 

Sweet Milk Gems 135 

Breakfast Gems.. 135 

Graham Breakfast Cakes 135 

Buckwheat Cakes 135 

Flannel Cakes 136 

Rice Griddle Cakes 137 

French Pancakes 137 

Pancakes 37 

Bread Fritters 137 

Quick Sally Lunn 138 

Breakfast Cake 138 

Quick Waffles 138 

Johnny Cake 138 

Mush 138 

Corn Mush 139 

Graham Mush 139 

CAKES. 

, White Lady Cake 181 

j Macaroons , 181 

I Almo id Icing i^/. 

I To Make Icing for Cakes 182 

I Loaf Cake 183 

' Rich Bride Cake 183 

Lady Fingers 183 

Queen Cake 184 

Chocolate Macaroons 184 

Caramel Cake 184 

Pound Cake 1 85 

Tocoa-nut Sponge Cake 185 

Cocoa-nut Pound Cake 186 



' v PADS 

Cocoa-nut Cup Cake 186 

Cocoa-nut Drops 186 

Citror. Heart Cakes 187 

Imperial Cakes 187 

Plum Cakes 187 

Gold and Silver Cakes 188 

To Make Small Sponge Cakes ig8 

Lemon Cheese Cakes 189 

Snow Cakes 189 

Tilden Cakes 189 

Corn Starch Cakes 189 

Birthday Cakes 190 

Naples Biscuit 190 

Cake Trifles 190 

Ribbon Cake 198 

Jelly Rolf 198 

Delicate Crullers '199 

Savoy Cake 190 

Composition Cake 101 

Almond Cream Cake 191 

Ice Cream Cake 191 

Economical Cake 192 

Dehcate Cake 191 

Orange Cake 192 

Jelly Kisses 193 

Fig Cake 193 

Fried Cake ig j 

Cocoa-nut Kisses 193 

California Cake 154 

White Mountain Cake 194 

Lemon Cake 194 

Strawberry Short Cake 194 

Marble Cake 195 

White Pound Cake 195 

Nell's Chocolate Cake 195 

Rice Cake 196 

Cream Cake 196 

Sponge Cake 196 

Doughnuts 196 

Coffee Cake , 197 

Spice Cake 197 

Soft Ginger Bread 197 

Sweet Strawberry Short Cake 197 

Ginger Nuts >a? 



INDEX. 



COSMETIQUES. 



Complexion Wash 

To Clear a Tanned Skin 

Oil to Make the Hair Curl 

Wrinkles in the Skin 

Pearl Water for the Face 

Pearl Dentifrice 

Wash for a Blotched Face 

Face Powder 

Bandoline 

A Good Wash for the Hair 

DRINKS. 

To Make Green Tea 

To Make Black Tea Make as di- 
rected for Green 

Iced Tea 

Coffee 

Chocolate 

Lemon Syrup 

Strawberry Syrup . 

Raspberry Syrup 

Strawberry Sherbet 

Raspberry Vinegar 

Lemonade 

Egg Nogg 

Raisin Wine 

Currant Wine 

Ginger Wine 

Fine Milk Punch 

Claret Cup 

Roman Punch 

Cream Nectar 

Red Currant Cordial , 

Elderberry Syrup 



246 
246 
246 
247 
247 
247 
247 
247 
248 



DESSERT AND TEA DISHES. 

Boiled Custard 200 

Lemon Custard 200 

Snow Custard 200 

Tapioca Custard 201 

Blanc Mangt 202 

Rice Blanc Mange 202 

Apple Trifle 203 

Lemon Trifle 203 

Floating Island 204 

Apple Snow 204 

Tropical Snow 204 

Swiss Cream 205 

Italian Cream 205 

Whipped Cream 205 

Tipsy Cake... jo6 

Snow Pyramids 206 



An Excellent Dessert. 

Apple Fritters 

Jelly Cake Fritters 

Black Meringue 

Charlotte Russe 

Jellied Grapes 

Jelly and Custard 

Lemon Toast 

Dish of Snow Whipped Cream. . 

Omelet for Dessert 

Jelly Fritters <.. 

FISH. 



PAGH 
... 206 
... 207 
... 207 
... 207 
...208 
... 208 
... 208 
... 208 
.. 209 
.. 209 
. .. 810 



Boiled Salmon 3$ 

Broiled Salmon 35 

Baked Salmon 35 

Salmon Trout 36 

Spiced Salmon (Pickled) 36 

Salmon and Caper Sauce 37 

Salmon Cutlets 37 

Dried or smoked Salmon 37 

Boiled Cod 38 

Cod Pie 38 

Dried Codfish 38 

Stewed Salt Cod 38 

Codfish Cakes 39 

Boiled Bass 39 

Fried Bass 39 

To Fry or Boil Fish Properly 40 

Baked Black Bass 40 

Broiled Mackerel 40 

Salt Mackerel with Cream Sauce 41 

Boiled Eels.. . 42 

Fricasseed Eels 42 

Fried Eels 42 

Collared Eels 42 

Fried Trout $ 

Trout in Jelly (or other Fish) 43 

Boiled Trout 43 

Broiled Trout 44 

Baked Haddock 44 

Curried Haddock..... 44 

Fricasseed Haddock 45 

Broiled White Fish (Fresh) 45 

Baked White Fish 45 

To Choose Lobsters 46 

Boiled Lobsters 46 

Curried Lobsters 46 

Lobster Chowder 46 



Ch. 



47 



To Fry Smelts 47 

Red Herrings or Yarmouth Bloaters.. 48 

Rolled Fish 48 

Oysters on the Shell 49 



IKDEX, 



iii 



PAGE. 

Oysters Stewed with Milk 49 

Oysters Fried in Butter 49 

Oysters Scalloped 49 

Ovsters Fried 5 

Oyster Patties 5 

Oysters Broiled 5' 

Clam Fritters 5< 

Clams, Soft Shelled 5' 

To Broil Soft Shell Clams 5 ' 

Clam Chowder > 5 2 

ICES, ICE-CREAM, CANDY. 

Currant Ice 227 

Strawberry or Raspberry Ice 227 

Orange and Lemon Ices 227 

Ice-Cream 227 

Vanilla or Lemon Ice-cream , 228 

Strawberry Ice-cream 228 

Chocolate Ice-cream 228 

Cream Candies 2:5 

Pineapple Ice-cream 229 

Italian Cream 230 

To Make Barley Sugar.. 230 

To Make Everton Toffy 231 

Cocoa-nut Drops 231 

Molasses Candy....'. 231 

Chocolate Caramels 231 

Lemon Candy 232 

INVALID COOKERY. 

Port Wine Jelly 240 

Tapioca Jelly . 240 

Arrowroot Wine Jelly 240 

Jellied Chicken 240 

Chicken Broth 241 

To mate Gruel 24 1 

Barley Water 242 

Arrowroot Blanc Mango 242 

Lemonade for Invalids 242 

Mutton Broth 243 

Flax-seed Lemonade 243 

Arrowroot 243 

Stewed Rabbits in Miik 244 

Slippery Elm Bark Tea 244 

Beef Tea 244 

Egg Wine 244 

Toast-Water 245 

Onion Gruel 245 

MEATS. 

Roast Beef 53 

FV.,,,,,] of i:,,. f >>...iH... t ,.,....,..,, j 



FACE. 

Beef Salted, or Corned Red 53 

To Boil Corned Beef 5$ 

A Nice Way to Serve Cold Beef 55 

Spiced Beef 55 

Broiled Beefsteak * 56 

Fried Beefsteak 56 

Beefsteak Pie 57 

Boiled Leg of Mutton 57 

Roast Loin of Mutton 58 

Broiled Mutton Chops 58 

Mutton Chop, Fried 58 

Roast Forequarter of Lamb... ...... 58 

Lambs' Sweet Breads 59 

To Roast Veal 60 

Veal Cutlets , 61 

Stuffed Fillet of Veal with Bacon 61 

Veal Cake 62 

Veal Pie 62 



Boiled Calf's Head 63 

Calf's Head Cheese...., 64 

Boiled Calf's Feet, Parsley and 

Butter 64 

Calf's Liver and Bacon 64 

Sweet Breads 65 

Egged Veal Hasli 65 

Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding... 66 

Beef Heart, Baked or Roasted 66 

Beef Kidney 67 

Rolled Beef ..., 67 

Boiled Tongue 68 

Fricasseed Tripe 8ft 

Broiled Tripe 6S 

Roast Rabbit 6ij 

Stewed Rabbit, Larded 6q 

Fricasseed Rabbit 7 .......... 323 

Canned Peaches ..................... 223 

Canned Strawberries ............... 223 

Canned Pears ....................... 224 

Canned Plums ............ .......... 224 

Canned Currants .................... 224 

Canned Pineapple .................... 225 

Canned Quinces. . . ........... .... 225 

Canned Tomatoes .................... 225 

Canned Corn .......................... 225 

POULTRY, GAME, Etc. 

Roast Turkey ...................... 78 

Boiled Turkey .... .................. 79 

To Roast a Fowl or Chicken ......... So 

Boiled Chicken..... ................. Si 

Broiled Chicken ..................... 8 1 

Fried Chicken ........... . ........... 8t 

Fricassee of Chicken . .............. 82 

To Curry Chicken .................... 82 

Pressed Chicken .................... 82 

Chicken Pot-Pie .................... 83 

Chicken Salad ....................... 83 

Chicken, Jellied ..................... 84 

Chicken Pates ........................ 84 

Sage and Onion Stuffing for Geese, 

Ducks, and Pork ................... 84 

To Roast a Goose ............ . ....... 85 

Roast Ducks ......................... 86 

Roast Pigeons .... .................... 86 

To Make a Bird's Nest .............. 87 

Pigeons in Jelly ..................... 87 



Pige 



88 



Wild Ducks ....................... . 89 

Roast Wild Duck .................... 89 

Wild Turkey ........................ 89 

To Roast Snipe, Woodcock, and 

Plover ............................ 90 

Roast Partridge ...................... 92 

Roast Quail ......................... 9; 

Roast Prairie Chicken ....... . ....... 01 

Larded Grouse ...................... 82 

PORK, HAM, AND EGGS. 

To Choose Pork ..................... 92 

Curing Hams ......................... 93 

To Roast a Leg of Pork .............. 93 

Pork and Beans ............. . ........ 94 

Pork Sausages ...... . ................ 94 

Pork Chops, Steaks, and Cutlets ---- 95 

Roast Pig .......................... 95 

Pigs' Cheek ......j, ....... ......... <# 



TNDEX. 



Vll 



PACK. 

^Roast Spare Rib 96 

Pork Fritters 97 

Baked Ham 97 

To Boil a Ham 97 

To Broil a Ham 98 

Fried Ham and Eggs 98 

Ham Toast 98 

Head Cheese 99 

Pigs' Feet Soused 100 

To Make Lard 100 

To Tell Good Eggs 101 

Keeping Eggs Fresh 101 

Poached Eggs 102 

Dropped Eggs 102 

Stuffed Eggs 102 

Eggs a la Suissie . 103 

Eggs Brouille 103 

EggsCurried 103 

Eggs Creamed 104 

Soft Boiled Eggs 104 

Eggs Upon Toast 104 

Dutcli Omelet 104 

Eggs Poached in Balls 105 

Omelet au Natural 105 

Omelet in Batter 105 

Scrambled Eggs. 106 

Omelet (Splendid) 106 

SOUPS. 

Remarks on Soups 20 

Stock Soups 22 

White Stock 22 

Skin of Beef 23 

Mutton with Tapioca 24 

Veal 25 

Ox Tail 25 

Vegetable 25 

Macaroni 26 

Vermicelli 26 

Chicken Cream 26 

Mock Turtle 27 

Hard Pea 27 

Green Pea 28 

Potato 2q 

Tomato 29 

Plain Calf's Head 30 

A la Julienne -jz 

Gatn= ... .....-%; 31 

v-eiery 31 

Oyster 31 

Lobster 32 

Egg Balls for Soup 32 

,..,.,.,,. .,,.,.,, ,.,, 32 



FAttH 

Irish Stew 3J 

To get up Soup in Haste 34 

To color Soups 34 

SAUCES FOR MEATS, Etc. 

To Make Drawn Butter 124 

Parsley Sauce 124 

Egg Sauce 124 

Onion Sauce 125 

Anchovy Sauce 125 

Bread Sauce 125 

Tomato Sauce 125 

Tomato Mustard 126 

Mint Sauce 126 

Celery Sauce '29 

Governor's Sauce 129 

Cream Sauce 127 

Russian Sauce 127 

Mayonnaise Sauce 127 

Oyster Sauce 128 

Lobster Sauce 128 

Caper Sauce 128 

Mustard Sauce 128 

Curry Sauce ' 2 9 

Cranberry Sauce 129 

Port Wine Sauce for Game 130 

Currant Jelly Sauce 13 

Apple Sauce >y> 

SALADS, PICKLES, AND 
CATSUP. 

Lettuce 140 

Lettuce Salad 14 

Salmon Salad 141 

Lobster Salad 141 

Tomato Salad 14* 

Sard in? Salad 142 

Salad Dressing 142 

French Salad Dressing 142 

Cream Dressing for Cold Slaw 143 

Chicken Salad . . 143 

Red Vegetable Salad ...' - 

Celery Salad :+4 

Cold Slaw.... ., 144 

iviiad Dressing (Excellent) 144 

Pickled Cucumbers 145 

To Pickk- Onions 145 

Pickled Cauliflowers 145 

Red Cabbage 145 

To Pickle Tomatoes 146 

RipeTonjato Pickles,,......,.,,.,,. 146 



INDEX. 



PARR. 

Chopped Pickle 146 

Chow-Chow 147 

Piccalilli 147 

Pickled Walnuts (very good 147 

Green Tomato Pickle 148 

Chili Sauce 148 

Mixed Pickles 148 

Pickled Mushrooms 149 

Favorite Pickles 149 

Tomato Mustard 150 

Indian Chetney 150 

Pickled Cherries 150 

Pickled Plums 151 

Spiced Plums 151 

Peaches, Pears, and Sweet Apples.... 151 

Tomato Catsup 151 

Walnut Catsup 1 52 

Mushroom Catsup 152 

Brine that Preserves Buttera Year.... 153 

Butter in Haste 153 

VEGETABLES. 

Boiled Potatoes 107 

Mashed Potatoes 107 

Fried Potatoes 108 

Broiled Potatoes ... 108 

Potatoes and Cream 108 

Potato Puffs 109 

Potato Snow 109 

Potato Border 109 

Potatoes, Whipped 109 

Potatoes, Scalloped no 

Potato Croquettes no 

Potatoes a la Cream no 

To Boil Sweet Potatoes no 

Roasted Sweet Potatoes in 

Baked Sweat Potatoes.. .. in 



PACK 

French Fried in 

Turnips in 

Spinach in 

Beets n: 

To Preserves Vegetables (or Winter. . 1 1> 

De icate Cabbage 113 

Red Cabbage 114 

Cauliflowers 114 

Mashed Carrots 114 

Boiled Green Corn 114 

Green Peas 115 

To Boil Onions 115 

Fried Onions 115 

Boiled Parsnips 115 

Parsnips Fried in Butter 116 

Parsnips Creamed 116 

Parsnip Fritters 1 16 

Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster 117 

Broiled Vegetable Marrow 117 

Stewed Tomatoes 118 

Baked Tomatoes 118 

Stuffed Tomatoes iiq 

Scalloped Tomatoes 119 

To Peal Tomatoes - 119 

Baked Beans 120 

String Beans 120 

Butter Beans 120 

Asparagus with Eggs 121 

Asparagus upon Toast 12 1 

Mushrooms, Stewed 121 

Mushrooms, Fried 121 

Mushrooms, Baked 122 

Mushrooms, Broiled 122 

Mashed Squash 122 

Baked Squash 122 

Fried Squash 121 

Stewed Celery 123 

Stuffed Egg Plant 123 



THE EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK 



OF all the arts upon which the physical well-being of 
man, in his social state, is dependent, none has been more 
neglected than that of cookery, though none is more im- 
portant, for it supplies the very fountain of life. The 
preparation of human food, so as to make it at once 
wholesome, nutritive, and agreeable to the palate, has 
hitherto been beset by imaginary difficulties and strong 
prejudices. 

Many persons associate the idea of wealth with culinary 
perfection; others consider unwholesome, as well as ex- 
pensive, everything that goes beyond the categories of 
boiling, roasting, and the gridiron. All are aware that 
wholesome and luxurious cookery is by no means incom- 
patible with limited pecuniary rrieans; whilst in roasted, 
boiled, and broiled meats, which constitute what is 
f ermed true American fare, much that is nutritive and 
agreeable is often lost for want of skill in preparing 
them. Food of every description is wholesome and di- 
gestible in proportion as it approaches nearer to the state 
of complete digestion, or, in other words, to that state 
termed c/iyme, whence the chyle or milky juice that after- 
wards forms blood is absorbed, and conveyed to the heart. 
Now nothing is further from this state than raw meat 
and raw vegetables. Fire is therefore necessary to 
soften them, and thereby begin that elaboration which 
is consummated in the stomach. The preparatory pro- 



8 THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOO^. 

cess, which forms the cook's art, is more or less perfect 
in proportion as the aliment is softened, without losing 
any of its juices or flavor for flavor is not only an agreea- 
ble but a necessary accompaniment to wholesome food. 
Hence it follows, that meat very much underdone, 
whether roasted or boiled, is not so wholesome as meat 
W^ll done but retaining all its juices. And here comes 
the necessity for the cook's skill, which is so often at 
fault even in these simple modes of preparing human 
nourishment. 

Pork, veal, lamb, and all young meats, when not thor- 
oughly cooked, are absolute poison to the stomach; and 
if half-raw beef or mutton are often eaten with impunity, 
it must not be inferred that they are wholesome in their 
semi-crude state, but only less unwholesome than the 
young meats. 

Vegetables, also, half done, which is the state in which 
they are often sent to the table, are productive of great 
gastric derangement, often of a predisposition to cholera. 

A great variety of relishing, nutritive, and even elegant 
dishes, may be prepared from the most homely mate- 
rials, which may not only be rendered more nourishing^ 
but be made to go much further in a large family than 
they usually do. The great secret of all cookery, except 
in roasting and broiling, is a judicious use of butter, flour, 
and herbs, and the application of a very slow fire for 
good cooking requires only gentle simmering, but no 
boiling up, which only renders the meat hard. Good 
roasting can only be acquired by practice, and the per- 
fection lies in cooking the whole joint thoroughly with- 
out drying up the juice of any part of it. This is also 
the case with broiling; while a joint under process of 
boiling, as we have said, should be allowed to simmer 
gently. 

WH.h regard to made-dishes, as the horrible imitations of 
French cookery prevalent in Americ^ re tgrmed, 



THE EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 9 

admit that they are very unwholesome. All the juice* 
are boiled out of the meat, which is swimming in a he- 
terogenous compound, disgusting to the sight, and sea- 
soned so strongly with spice and Cayenne pepper enough 
to inflame the stomach of an ostrich. 

French cookery is generally mild in seasoning, and free 
from grease; it is formed upon the above-stated principle 
of reducing the aliment as near to the state of chyme as 
possible, without injury to its nutritive qualities, render- 
ing it at once easy of digestion and pleasant to the taste. 

HINTS ON MARKETING. 

In the first place, the housewife ought, where it is pos- 
sible, to do her marketing herself, and pay ready-money for 
everything site purchases. This is the only way in which 
she can be sure of getting the best goods at the lowest 
price. We repeat that this is the only way compatible 
with economy; because, if a servant be entrusted with 
the buying, she will, if she is not a good judge of the 
quality of articles, bring home those she can get for the 
least money (and these are seldom the cheapest); and 
even if she is a go^d judge, it is ten to one against her 
taking the trouble to make a careful selection. 

When the ready-money system is found inconvenient, 
and an account is run with a dealer, the mistress of the 
house ought to have a pass-book in which she should 
write down all the orders herself, leaving the dealer to 
fill in only the prices. Where this is not done, and the 
mistress neglects to compare the pass-book with the 
goods ordered every time they are brought in, it some- 
times happens, either by mistak-e, or the dishonesty of 
the dealer, or the servant, that goods are entered which 
were never ordered, perhaps never had, and that those 
Nvhich were ordered are overcharged; and if these errors 
are not detected at the time, they are sure to be difficult 



IO THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK, 

of adjustment afterwards. For these and other econo- 
mic reasons, the housewife should avoid running ac- 
counts, and pay ready-money. 

RULES FOR EATING. 

Dr. Hall, on this important subject, gives the follow 
ing advice: 

1. Never sit down to table with an anxious or dis- 
turbed mind; betters hundred times intermit that meal, 
for there will then be that much more food in the world 
for hungrier stomachs than yours; and besides, eating 
under such circumstances can only, and will always, pro- 
long and aggravate the condition of things. 

2. Never*sit down to a meal after any intense mental 
effort, for physical and mental injury are inevitable, and 
no one has a right to deliberately injure body, mind, or 
estate. 

3. Never go to a full table during bodily exhaustion 
designated by some as being worn out, tired to death, 
used up, overdone, and the like. The wisest thing to be 
done under such circumstances is to take a cracker and 
a cup of warm tea, either black or green, and no more. 
In ten minutes you will feel a degree of refreshment and 
liveliness which will be pleasantly surprising to you; not 
of the transient kind which a glass of liquor affords, but 
permanent; but the tea gives present stimulus and a 
little strength, and before it subsides, nutriment begins 
to draw from the sugar, and cream, and bread, thus al- 
lowing the body gradually, and by safe degrees, to re- 
gain its usual vigor. Then, in a co-uple of hours, a full 
meal may be taken, provided that it does not bring it 
later than two hours before sundown; if later, then take 
nothing for that day in addition to the cracker and tea, 
and the next day you will feel a freshness and vigor not 
recently known. 



THE B VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. II 

No lady will require to be advised a second time, who 
will conform to the above rules; while it is a fact of no 
unusual observation among intelligent physicians, that 
eating heartily, and under bodily exhaustion, is not un- 
frequently the cause of alarming and painful illness, and 
sometimes sudden death. These things being so, let 
every family make it a point to assemble around the table 
with kindly feelings with a cheerful humor, and a cour- 
teous spirit; and let that member of it be sent from it in 
disgrace who presumes to mar the re-union by sullen si- 
lence, or impatient look, or angry tone, or complaining 
tongue. Eat ever in thankful gladness, or away with 
you to the kitchen, you "ill-tempered thing, that you 
are." There was good philosophy in the old-time cus- 
tom of having a buffoon or music at the dinner-table. 

HOW TO CHOOSE MEAT. 

Ox-BEEF, when it is young, will have a fine open grain, 
and a good red color; the fat should be white, for when 
it is of a deep yellow color, the meat is seldom very good. 
The grain of cow-beef is closer, the fat whiter, and the 
lean scarcely so red as that of ox-beef. When you see 
beef, of which the fat is hard and skinny, and the lean of 
a deep red, you may be sure that it is of an inferior kind; 
and when the meat is old, you may know it by a line of 
horny texture running through the meat of the ribs. 

MUTTON must be chosen by the firmness and fineness 
>f the grain, its good color, and firm white fat. It is not 
considered prime until the sheep is about five years 
old. 

LAMB will not keep long after it is killed. It can be dis- 
covered by the neck end in the fore-quarter if it has been 
killed too long, the veins in the neck being bluish when 
the meat is fresh, but green when it is stale. In the hind 
quarter, the same discovery may be made by examining 



IZ 



THE EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 



the kidney and the knuckle, for the former has a slight 
smell, and the knuckle is not firm, when the meat has been 
killed too long. 

PORK should have a thin rind ; and when it is fresh, the 
,meat is smooth and cool ; but, when it looks flabby, and is 
(clammy to the touch, it is not good ; and pork, above all 
'meat, is disagreeable when it is stale. If you perceive many 
enlarged glands, or, as they are usually termed, kernels, in 
the fat of the pork, you may conclude that the pork cannot 
be wholesome. 

VEAL is generally preferred of a delicate whiteness, but 
it is more juicy and well-flavored when of a deeper color. 
Butchers bleed calves profusely in order to produce this 
white meat ; but this practice must certainly deprive the 
meat of some of its nourishment and flavor. When you 
choose veal, endeavor to look at the loin, which affords 
the best means of judging of the veal generally, for if the 
kidney, which may be found on the under side of one end 
of the loin, be deeply enveloped in white and firm-looking 
fat, the meat will certainly be good ; and the same ap- 
pearance will enable you to judge if it has been recently 
killed. The kidney is the part which changes the first ; and 
then the suet around it becomes soft, and the meat flabby 
and spotted 

BACON, like pork, should have a thin rind ; the fat should 
be firm, and inclined to a reddish color ; and the lean should 
firmly adhere to the bone, and have no yellow streaks in it. 
When you are purchasing a ham, have a knife stuck into it 
to the bone, which, if the ham be well cured, may be drawn 
out again without having any of the meat adhering to it, and 
without your perceiving any disagreeable smell. A short ham 
is reckoned the best. 



THE BrERY-DAY COOKBOOK. t$ 

HOW TO CHOOSE FISH. 

TURBOT, which is in season the greater part of the 
year, should have the underside of a yellowish white, for 
when it is very transparent, blue, or thin, it is not good: 
the whole fish should be thick and firm. 

SALMON should have a fine red flesh and gills; the 
scales should be bright, and the whole fish firm. Many 
persons think that salmon is improved by keeping a day 
or two. 

COD should be judged by the redness of the gills, the 
whiteness, stiffness, and firmness of the flesh, and the 
clear freshness of the eyes; these are the infallible 
proofs of its being good. The whole fish should be 
thick and firm. 

WHITE-FISH may be had good almost throughout the 
year; but the time in which they are in their prime is 
early in the year. The white-fish is light and delicate, 
and in choosing it you must examine whether the fins 
and flesh be firm. 

FRESH-WATER FISH may be chosen by similar observa- 
tions respecting the firmness of the flesh, and the clear 
appearance of the eyes, as salt-water fish. 

In a LOBSTER lately caught, you may put the claws in 
motion by pressing the eyes; but when it has been long 
caught, the muscular action is not excited. The fresh- 
ness of boiled lobsters may be determined by the elas- 
ticity of the tail, which is flaccid when they have lost 
any of their wholesomeness. Their goodness, independ- 
ent of freshness, is determined by their weight. 

CRABS, too, must be judged of by their weight, for 
when they prove light, the flesh is generally found to be 
wasted and watery. If in perfection, the joints of the 
legs will be stiff, and the body will have an agreeable 
smell. The eyes, by a dull appearance, betray that the 
crab has been long caught. 



14 THE EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY. 

In the choice of Poultry the age of the bird is the 
chief point to which you should attend. 

A young TURKEY has a smooth black leg; in an old 
one the legs are rough and reddish. If the bird be fresh 
killed the eyes will be full and fresh, and tlie feet moist 

FOWLS, when they are young, the combs and the legs 
will be smooth, and rough when they are old. 

In GEESE, when they are young, the bills and the feet 
are yellow and have a few hairs upon them, but they are 
red if the bird be old. The feet of a goose are pliable 
when the bird is fresh killed, and dry and stiff when it 
has been killed some time. Geese are called green till 
they are two or three months old. 

DUCKS should be chosen by the feet, which should be 
supple; and they should also have a plump and hard 
breast. The feet of a tame duck are yellowish, those of 
a wild one, reddish. 

PIGEONS should always be eaten while they are fresh; 
when they look flabby and discolored about the under 
part, they have been kept too long. The feet, like those 
of poultry, show the age of the bird; when they are sup- 
pie, it is young; when stiff, it is old. Tame pigeons are 
fcarger than wild ones. 

HOW TO CHOOSE GAME. 

VENISON, when young, will have the fat clear and 
bright, and this ought also to be of a considerable thick- 
ness. When you do not wish to have it in a very high 
state, a knife plunged into either haunch or the shoulder, 
and drawn out, will by the smell enable you to judge if 
the venison be sufficiently fresh. 

With regard to venison, which, as it is not an every- 
day article of diet, it may be convenient to keep fot 



THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 15 

Some time after it has begun to get high or tainted, it is 
useful to know that animal putrefaction is checked by 
fresh burnt charcoal; by means of which, therefore, the 
venison may be prevented from getting worse, although 
it cannot be restored to its original freshness. The meat 
should be placed in a hollow dish, and the charcoal pow- 
der strewed over it until it covers the joint to the thick- 
ness of half an inch. 

HARES and RABBITS, when the ears are dry and tough, 
the haunch thick, and the claws blunt and rugged, they 
are old. Smooth and sharp claws, ears that readily tear, 
and a narrow cleft in the lip, are the marks of a young 
hare. Hares may be kept for some time after they have 
been killed; indeed, many people think they are not fit for 
the table until the inside begins to turn a little. Care, 
however, should be taken to prevent the inside from be- 
coming musty, which would spoil the flavor of the stuffing. 

PARTRIDGES have yellow legs and a dark-colored bill 
when young. They are not in season till after the first 
of September 

HOW TO CHOOSE EGGS. 

In putting the hands round the egg r and presenting to 
the light the end which is not covered, it should be trans- 
parent. If you can detect some tiny spots, it is not new- 
ly laid, but may be very good for all ordinary purposes 
except boiling soft. If you see a large spot near the 
shell, it is bad, and should not be used on any account. 
The white of a newly-laid egg boiled soft is like milk; 
that of an egg a day old, is like rice boiled in milk; and 
that of an old egg, compact, tough, and difficult to 
digest. A cook ought not to give eggs two or three days 
old to people who really care for fresh eggs, under the 
delusion that they will not find any difference; for an 
amateur will find it out in a moment, not only by the 
appearance, but also by the taste. 



! 6 THE E VER Y-DA Y CO OX-BOOK. 

CARVING. 

THE seat for the carver should be somewhat elevated 
above the other chairs; it is extremely ungraceful to carve 
standing, and it is rarely done by any person accustomed 
to the business. Carving depends more on skill than on 
strength. \Ve have seen very small women carve admir- 
ably sitting down ; and very tall men who knew not how 
to cut a piece of beefsieak without rising on their feet to 
do it. 

The carving-knife should be very sharp, and not heavy ; 
and it should be held firmly in the hand ; also the dish 
should be not too far from the carver. It is customary to help 
the fish with a fish trowel, and not with a knife. The middle 
part of a fish is generally considered the best. In helping 
it, avoid breaking the flakes, as that will give it a mangled 
appearance. 

In carving ribs or sirloin of beef begin by cutting thin 
slices off the side next to you. Afterwards you may cut 
from the tenderloin, or cross-part near the lower end. Do 
not send anyone the outside piece, unless you know that they 
particularly wish it. 

In helping beefsteak put none of the bone on the plate. 
In cutting a round of corned beef begin at the top ; but lay 
aside the first cut or outside piece, and send it to no one, as 
it is always dry and hard. In a round of beef d-la mode the 
outside is frequently preferred. 

In a leg of mutton begin across the middle, cutting the 
slices quite down to the bone. The same with a leg of pork 
or a ham. The latter should be cut in very thin slices, as its 
flavor is spoiled when cut thick. 

To taste well, a tongue should be cut crossways in 
round slices. Cutting it lengthwise (though the prac- 
tice at many tables) injures the flavor. The middle part 
of the tongue is the best. Do not help anyone to a 



THE E VER V-DA Y COO A' BOCK. 1 7 

piece of the root; that, being by no means a favored 
part, is generally left in the dish. 

In carving a fore-quarter of lamb first separate the 
shoulder part from the breast and ribs by passing the 
knife under, and then divide the ribs. If the lamb is 
large, have another dish brought to put the shoulder in. 

For a loin of veal begin near the smallest end, and 
separate the ribs; helping a part of the kidney (as far as 
it wiii go) with each piece. Carve a loin of pork or mut- 
ton in the same manner. 

In carving a fillet of veal begin at the top. Many per- 
sons prefer the first cut or outside piece. Help a por- 
tion of the stuffing with each slice. 

In a breast of veal there are two parts very different in 
quality, the ribs and the brisket. You will easily per- 
cieve the division; enter your knife at it and cut 
through, which, will separate the tvv.j parts. Ask the 
person you are going to help whether they prefer a rib, 
or a piece of the brisket. 

For a haunch of venison first make a deep incision by 
passing your knife all along the side, cutting quite down 
to the bone. This is to let out the gravy. Then turn 
the broad end of the haunch towards you, and cut it as 
deep as you can in thin slices, allowing some of the fat 
to each person. 

For a saddle of venison, or of mutton, cut from the 
tail to the other end on each side of the backbone, mak- 
ing very thin slices, and sending some fat wit'h each. 
Venison and roast mutton chill very soon. Currant 
jelly is an indispensable appendage to venison, and to 
roast mutton, and to ducks. 

A young pig is most generally divided before it comes 
to table, in which case it is not customary to send in the 
head, as to many persons it is a revolting spectacle after 
it is cut off. When served up whole, first separate the 
head from the shoulders, then cut off the limbs, and then 



1 8 THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

divide the ribs. Help some of the stuffing with each 
piece. 

To carve a fowl, begin by sticking your fork in the 
pinion, and drawing it towards the leg ; and then pass- 
ing your knife underneath take off the wing at the joint. 
Next, slip your knife between the leg and the body, to 
cut through the joint ; and with the fork turn the leg 
back, and the joint will give way. Ther take off the 
other wing and leg. If the fowl has be^n trussed (as it 
ought to be) with the liver and gizzard, help the liver 
with one wing, and the gizzard with the other. The 
liver-wing is considered the best. After the limbs are 
taken off enter your knife into the top of the breast, and 
cut under the merry-thought, so as to loosen it, lifting it 
with your fork. Afterwards cut slices from both sides 
of the breast. Next take off the collar-bones, which lie 
on each side of the merry-thought, and then separate 
the side-bones from the back. The breast and wings are 
considered as the most delicate parts of the fowl ; the 
back, as the least desirable, is generally left in the dish. 
Some persons, in carving a fowl, find it more convenient 
to take it on a plate, and as they separate it return each 
part to the dish; but this is not the usual way. 

A turkey is carved in the same manner as a fowl; ex- 
cept that the legs and wings, being larger, are separated 
at the lower joint. The lower part of the leg (or drum- 
stick, as it is called), being hard, tough, and stringy, - 
never helped to any one, but allowed to remain on the 
dish. First cut off the wing, leg, and breast from one 
side; then turn the turkey over, and cut them off from 
the other. 

To carve a goose, separate the leg from the body, by 
putting the fork into the small end of the limb; pressing 
it close to the body, and then passing the knife under, 
and turning the leg back, as you cut through the joint, 
TO take off the wing, put your fork into the small end at 



THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. ?p 

i 

the pinion, and press it closely to the body; then slip the 
knife under, and separate the joint. Next cut under the 
merry-thought, and take it off; and then cut slices from 
the breast. Then turn the goose, and dismember the 
other side. Take off the two upper side-bones that are 
next to the wings, and then the two lower side-bones. 
The breast and legs of a goose afford the finest pieces. 
If a goose is old there is no fowl so tough; and, if diffi- 
cult to carve, it will be still more difficult to eat. 

Partridges, pheasants, grouse, etc., are carved in the 
same manner as fowls. Quails, woodcocks, and snipes 
are merely split down the back; so also are pigeons, giv- 
ing a half to each person. 

In helping any one to gravy, or to melted butter, do 
not pour it over their meat, fowl, or fish, but put it to one 
side on a vacant part of the plate, that they may use just 
as much of it as they like. In filling a plate never heap 
one thing on another. 

In helping vegetables, do not plunge the spoon down 
to the bottom of the dish, in case they should not have 
been perfectly well drained, and the water should have 
settled there. 

By observing carefully how it is done you may acquire 
a knowledge of the joints, and of the process of carving, 
which a little daily practice w.'K soon convert into dex- 
terity. If a young lady is ign.uant of this very useful 
art, it will be well for her to take lessons of her father, 
or her brother, and a married lady can easily learn from 
her husband. Domestics who wait at table may soon, 
from looking on daily, become so expert that, when 
necessary, they can take a dish to the side-table and 
carve it perfectly well. 

At a dinner-party, if the hostess is quite young, she is 
frequently glad to be relieved of the trouble of carving by 
Ue gentleman vvnosits nearest to her; but if she is familiar 
with the business, she usually prefers doing it herseh. 



20 THE JSVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

SOUPS. 
GENERAL REMARKS. 

BE careful to proportion the quantity of water to that 
of the meat. Somewhat less than a quart of water to a 
pound of meat is a good rule for common soups. Rich 
soups, intended for company, may have a still smaller 
allowance of water. 

Soup should always be made entirely of fresh meat 
that has not been previously cooked. An exception to 
this rule may sometimes be made in favor of the re- 
mains of a piece of roast beef that has been very much 
under-done in roasting. This may be added to a good 
piece of raw meat. Cold ham, also, may be occasionally 
put into white soups. 

Soup, however, that has been originally made of raw 
meat entirely is frequently better the second day than 
the first, provided that it is reboiled only for a very short 
time, and that no additional water is added to it. 

Unless it has been allowed to boil too hard, so as to 
exhaust the water, the soup-pot will not require replen- 
ishing. When it is found absolutely necessary to do so, 
the additional water must be boiling-hot when poured in ; 
if lukewarm or cold, it will entirely spoil the soup. 

Every particle of fat should be carefully skimmed from 
the surface. Greasy soup is disgusting and unwhole- 
some. The lean of meat is much better for soup than 
the fat. 

Long and slow boiling is necessary to extract the 
strength from the meat. If boiled fast over a large 
fire, the meat becomes hard and tough, an I vvlil not 
give out its juices. 

Potatoes, if boiled in the soup, are thought by some to 
render it unwholesome., from the opinion that the water 



THE EVER T-DA T COOK-BOOK. 21 

in which potatoes have been cooked is almost a poison. 
As potatoes are a part of every dinner, it is very easy to 
take a few out of the pot in which they have been boiled 
by themselves, and to cut them up and add them to the 
soup just before it goes to table. Kemove all shreds of 
meat and bone. 

The cook should season the soup but very slightly with 
salt and pepper. If she puts in too much it may spoil 
it for the taste of most of those who are to eat it ; but 
if too little it is easy to add more to your own 



SOUPS. 



STOCK. 

Four pounds of shin of beef, or four pounds of knuckle of 
veal, or two pounds of each ; any bones, trimmings of poultry, 
or fresh meat, quarter pound of lean bacon or ham, two 
ounces of butter, two large onions, each stuck with cloves ; 
one turnip, three carrots, one head of celery, three lumps of 
sugar, two ounces of salt, half a teaspoonful of whole pepper, 
one large blade of mace, one bunch of savory herbs, four 
quarts and half pint of cold water. 

Cut up the meat and bacon, or ham, into pieces of about 
three inches square ; rub the butter on the bottom of the 
stewpan ; put in half a pint of water, the meat, and all the 
other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, and place it on a sharp 
fire, occasionally stirring its contents. When the bottom of 
the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance, 
add the four quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently 
for five hours. As we have said before, do not let it boil 
quickly. Remove every particle of scum while it is doing, 
and strain it through a fine hair sieve. 

This stock is the basis of many of the soups afterwards 
mentioned, and will be found quite strong enough for ordi- 
nary purposes. 

Time : five and one half hours. Average cost, twenty-five 
cents per quart. 

"WHITE STOCK SOUP. 

Six pounds knuckle of veal, half pound lean bacon, two 
tablespoonfuls of butter rubbed in one of flour, two 



THE EVER7-DAT COOK-BOOK. 23 

onions, two carrots, two turnips, three cloves stuck in an 
onion, one blade of mace, bunch of herbs, six quarts of 
water, pepper and salt, one cup of boiling milk. 

Cut up the meat and crack the bones. Slice carrots, 
turnips, and one onion, leaving that with the cloves whole. 
Put on with mace, and all the herbs except the parsley, 
in two quarts of cold water. Bring to a slow boil ; take 
off the scum, as it rises, and at the end of an hour's stew- 
ing, add the rest of the cold water one gallon. Cover 
and cook steadily, always gently, four hours. Strain off 
the liquor, of which there should be about five quarts ; 
rub the vegetables through the colander, and pick out 
bones and meat. Season these highly and put, as is your 
Saturday custom, into a wide-mouth jar, or a large bowl. 
Add to them three quarts of stock, well salted, and, when 
cold keep on ice. Cool to-day's stock; remove the fat, 
season, put in chopped parsley, and put over the fire. 
Heat in a saucepan a cup of milk, stir in the floured 
butter; cook three minutes. When the soup has sim- 
mered ten minutes after the last boil, and been carefully 
skimmed, pour into the tureen, and stir in the hot, thick- 
ened milk. 

SHIN OF BEEF SOUP. 

Get a shin-bone of beef weighing four or five pounds ; 
let the butcher saw it in pieces about two inches long, that 
the marrow may become the better incorporated with the 
soup, and so give it greater richness. 

Wash the meat in cold water; mix together of salt and 
pepper each a tablespoonful, rub this well into the meat, 
then put into a soup-pot; put to it as many quarts of 
water as there are pounds of meat, and set it over a mod- 
erate fire, until it comes to a boil, then take off whatever 
scum may have risen, after which cover it close, and set 
it where it will boil very gently for two hours longer, 
then skim it again, and add to it the proper vegetables 



24 THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

which are these one large carrot grated, one large tunip 
cut in slices, (the yellow or ruta baga is best) one leek 
cut in slices, one bunch of parsley cut small, six small 
potatoes peeled and cut in half, and a teacupful of pearl 
barley well washed, then cover it and let it boil gently 
for one hour, at which time add another tablespoonful 
of salt and a thickening made of a tablespoonful of 
wheat flour and a gill of water, stir it in by the spoonful; 
cover it for fifteen minutes and it is done. 

Three hours and a half is required to make this soup; 
it is the best for cold weather. Should any remain over 
the first day, it may be heated with the addition of a lit- 
tle boiling water, and served again. 

Take the meat from the soup, and if to be served with 
it, take out the bones, and lay it closely and neatly on a 
dish, and garnish with sprigs of parsley; serve made mus- 
tard and catsup with it. It is very nice pressed and eaten 
with mustard and vinegar or catsup. 

MUTTON SOUP WITH TAPIOCA. 

Three pounds perfectly lean mutton. The scrag makes 
good soup and costs little. Two or three pounds of bones, 
well pounded, one onion, two turnips, two carrots, two 
Stalks of celery, a few sprigs of parsley; if you have any 
tomatoes left from yesterday, add them, four tablespoon- 
fuls of pearl or granulated tapioca (not heaping spoon- 
fuls), four quarts of water. 

Put on the meat, cut in small pieces, with the bones, in 
two quarts of cold water. Heat very slowly, and when it 
boils pour in two quarts of hot water from the kettle. 
Chop the vegetables; cover with cold water. So soon as 
they begin to simmer, throw off the first water, replenish- 
ing with hot, and stew until they are boiled to pieces. 
The meat should cook steadily, never fast, five hours, 
keeping the pot-lid on Strain into a great bowl; let it 
Cool to u.aw the fat to the surface; skim and return to 



THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 2$ 

the fire. Season with pepper and salt, boil up, take off 
the scum; add the vegetables with their liquor. Heat 
together ten minutes, strain again, and bring to a slow 
boil before the tapioca goes in. This should have been 
soaked one hour in cold water, then cooked in the same 
within another vessel of boiling water until each grain is 
clear. It is necessary to stir up often from the bottom 
while cooking. Stir gradually into the soup until the 
tapioca is dissolved. 

Send around grated cheese with this soup. 

VEAL SOUP. 

To about three pounds of a joint of veal, which must 
be well broken up, put four quarts of water and set it 
over to boil. Prepare one fourth pound of macaroni by 
boiling it by itself, with sufficient water to cover it; add 
a little butter to the macaroni when it is tender, strain 
the soup and season to taste with salt and pepper, then 
add the macaroni in the water in which it is boiled. 
The addition of a pint of rich milk or cream and celery 
flavour is relished by many 

OX-TAIL SOUP. 

Take two ox tails and two whole onions, two carrots, 
a small turnip, two tablespoonfuls of flour, and a little 
white pepper, add a gallon of water, let all boil for two 
hours; then take out the tails and cut the meat into 
small pieces, return the bones to the pot, for a short 
time, boil for another hour, then strain the soup, and 
rinse two spoonfuls of arrowroot to add to it with the 
meat cut from the bones, and let all boil for a quarter of 
an hour. 

VEGETABLE SOUP. 

Two pounds of coarse, lean beef, cut into strips, two 
pounds of knuckle of veal, chopped to pieces, two pounds 
of mutton bones, and the bones left from your cold veal, 



26 THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

cracked to splinters, one pound of lean ham, four large 
carrots, two turnips, two onions, bunch of herbs, three 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and two of flour, one table- 
spoonful of sugar, salt and pepper, seven quarts of 
water. 

Put on meat, bones, herbs and water, and cook slowly 
five hours. Strain the soup, of which there should be 
five quarts. Season meat and bones, and put into the 
stock-pot with three quarts of the liquor. Save this for 
days to come. While the soup for to-day is cooling that 
you may take off the fat, put the butter into a frying pan 
with the sliced carrots, turnips, and onions, and fry to a 
light brown. Now, add a pint of the skimmed stock, and 
stew the vegetables tender, stir in the flour wet with 
water, and put all, with your cooled stock, over the fire 
in the soup-kettle. Season with sugar, cayenne *and salt r 
boil five minutes, rub through a colander, then a soup- 
sieve, heat almost to boiling, and serve. 

MACARONI SOUP. 

To a rich beef or other soup, in which there is no sea- 
soning other than pepper or salt, take half a pound of 
small pipe macaroni, boil it in clear water until it is 
tender, then drain it and cut it in pieces of an inch 
length, boil it for fifteen minutes in the soup and serve. 

VERMICELLI SOUP. 

Swell quarter of a pound of vermicelli Li a quart of 
warm water, then add it to a good beef, veal, Irmb, or 
chicken soup or broth with quarter of a pound of sweet 
butter; let the soup boil for fifteen minutes after it is 
added. 

CHICKEN CREAM SOUP. 

Boil an old fowl, with an onion, in four quarts of cold 
water, until there remain but two quarts. Take it out 



THE EFERY-DAY COOK-BOO^. 2J 

anct let it get cold. Cut off the whole of the breast, and 
chop very fine. Mix with the pounded yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs, and rub through a colander. Cool, 
skim, and strain the soup into a soup-pot. Season, add 
the chicken-and-egg mixture, simmer ten minutes, and 
pour into the tureen. Then add a small cup of boiling 
milk. 

MOCK-TURTLE SOUF. 

Clean and wash a calf's head, split it in two, save the 
brains, boil the head until tender in plenty of water; put 
a slice of fat ham, a bunch of parsley cut small, a sprig 
of thyme, two leeks cut small, six cloves, a teaspoonful 
of pepper, and three ounces of butter, into a stew-pan, 
and fry them a nice brown; then add the water in which 
the head was boiled, cut the meat from the head in neat 
square pieces, and put them to the soup; add a pint of 
Madeira and one lemon sliced thin, add cayenne pepper 
and salt to taste; let it simmer gently for two hours, 
then skim it clear and serve. 

Make a forcemeat of the brains as follows: put them 
in a stew-pan, pour hot water over, and set it over the 
fire for a few minutes, I hen take them up, chop them 
small, with a sprig of parsley, a saltspoonful of salt and 
pepper each, a tablespoonful of wheat flour, the same of 
butter, and one well-beaten egg; make it in small balls, 
and drop them in the soup fifteen minutes before it is 
taken from the fire; in making the balls, a little more 
flour may be necessary. Egg-balls may also be added. 

HARD PEA SOUP. 

Many persons keep the bones of their roasts in order 
to convert them into stock for pea soup, which is, to my 
taste, one of the most relishable of all soups, and a fam- 
ous dish for cold weather, with this advantage in its 
tavor, that it may be /nade from almost anything. 



?8 THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

Capital stock for pea soup can be made from a knuckle 
of ham or from a piece of pickled pork. Supposing that 
some such stock is at hand to the extent of about two 
u-J3rts, procure, say, two pounds of split peas, wash them 
wrll, and then soak them for a night in water to which 
a v^ry little piece of soda has been added (the floating 
peas shruld be all thro\vn away), strain out the peas and 
place tl'em in the stock, adding a head of celery, a cut- 
down carrot, and a large onion or two, and season with 
a pinch of curry powder, or half an eggspoonful of 
cayenne pepper. Boil with a lid on the pot till all is 
soft, skimming off the scum occasionally, and then care- 
fully strain into a well-warmed tureen, beating the pulp 
through the strainer with a spoon. Serve as hot as 
possible, placing a breakfastcupful of crumbled toast 
(breao) into the tureen before the soup is dished. Much 
of th<* success in preparing this soup lies in the " strain- 
ing," which ought to be carefully attended to. A wire 
skv. is best; but an active housewife must never stick. 
If Vie has not a sieve made for the purpose, she can fold 
a '^iece of net two or three times, and use that. When a 
knuckle of ham has been used to make the stock it 
should form a part of the dinner, with potatoes; or it 
Tnay be used as a breakfast or supper relish. 

GREEN PEA SOUP. 

Wasn a small quarter of lamb in cold water, and put 
it into a soup-pot with six quarts of cold water; add to 
it two tablespoonfuls of salt, and set it over a moderate 
fire let it boil gently for two hours, then skim it clear; 
add a quart of sheHed peas, and a teaspoonful of pepper; 
cover it, and let it boil for half an hour, then having 
scraped the skins from a quart of small young potatoes, 
add them to the soup; cover the pot, and let it boil for 
half an hour longer; work quarter of a pound of butter, 
and a dessert spoonful of flour together, and add them 



THE EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 2$ 

to the soup ten or twelve minutes before taking it off 
the fire. 

Serve the meat on a dish with parsley sauce over, and 
the soup in a tureen. 

POTATO SOUP. 

Potato soup is suitable for a cold day. Make it in 
the following manner: Get as many beef or ham bones 
as you can, and smash them into fragments. Add a lit- 
tle bit of lean ham to give flavor. Boil the bone and 
ham for two hours and a half at least. The bone of a 
roast beef is excellent. Strain off the liquor carefully, 
empty out the bones and debris of the ham, restore the 
liquor to the pot, and place again on the fire. Having 
selected, washed, and pared some nice potatoes, cut 
them into small pieces, and boil them in the stock till 
they melt away. An onion or two may also be boiled 
among the bones to help the flavor. I do not like thick 
potato soup, and I usually strain it through a hair sieve, 
after doing so placing it again on the fire, seasoning it 
with pepper and salt to taste. A stick of celery boiled 
with the bones is an improvement. Make only the 
quantity required for the day, as potato soup is best 
when it is newly made. 

TOMATO SOUP. 

Tomato soup is a much relished American dish, and 
is prepared as follows: Steam, or rather stew slowly, a 
mess of turnips, carrots, and onions, also a stock of 
celery, with half a pound of lean ham and a little bit of 
fresh butter over a slow fire for an hour or so. Then 
add two quarts of diluted stock or of other liquor in 
which meat has been boiled, as also eight or ten ripe 
tomatoes. Stew the whole for an hour and a half, then 
pass through the sieve into the pan again; add a little 
pepper and salt, boil for ten minutes and serve hot 



3 o THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

TO FRY OR BROIL FISH PROPERLY. 

After the fish is well cleansed, lay it on a folded towel and 
dry out all the water. When well wiped and dry, roll it in 
wheat flour, rolled crackers, grated stale bread, or Indian 
meal, whichever may be preferred ; wheat flour will gener- 
ally be liked. 

Have a thick-bottomed frying-pan or spider, with plenty 
of sweet lard salted ; (a tablespoonful of salt to each pound 
of lard), for fresh fish which have not been previously salted ; 
let it become boiling hot, then lay the fish in and let it fry 
gently, until one side is a fine delicate brown, then turn the 
other ; when both are done, take it up carefully and serve 
quickly, or keep it covered with a tin cover, and set the dish 
where it will keep hot. 

BAKED BLACK BASS. 

Eight good-sized onions chopped fine ; half that quantity 
of bread-crumbs ; butter size of hen's egg ; plenty of pepper 
and salt, mix thoroughly with anchovy sauce until quite red. 
Stuff your fish with this compound and pour the rest over it, 
previously sprinkling it with a little red pepper. Shad, 
pickerel, and trout are good the same way. Tomatoes can 
be used instead of anchovies, and are more economical. If 
using them take pork in place of butter and chop fine. 

BROILED MACKEREL. 

Pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of oil. Mack- 
erel should never be washed when intended to be broiled but 
merely wiped very clean and dry, after taking out the gills 
and inside. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, 
and oil ; broil it over a clear fire> turn it over on both sides, 
and also on the back. When sufficiently cooked, the flesh 
**Ki be detached from the bone, which will be in, about ten 



THE VER Y-DAY COOK-BOOK. 3 1 

GAME SOUP. 

Two grouse or partridges, or, if you have neither, use a 
pair of rabbits ; half a pound of lean ham ; two medium* 
sized onions ; one pound of lean beef ; fried bread ; butter 
for frying ; pepper, salt, and two stalks of white celery cut 
into inch lengths ; three quarts of water. 

Joint your game neatly ; cut the ham and onions into 
small pieces, and fry all in butter to a light brown. Put into 
a soup-pot with the beef, cut into strips, and a little pepper. 
Pour on the water; heat slowly, and stew gently two hours. 
Take out the pieces of bird, and cover in a bowl ; cook the 
soup an hour longer ; strain ; cool ; drop in the celery, 
and simmer ten minutes. Pour upon fried bread in the 
tureen. 

CELERY SOUP. 

Celery soup may be made with white stock. Cut down the 
white of half a dozen heads of celery into little pieces and 
boil it in four pints of white stock, with a quarter of a pound 
of lean ham and two ounces of butter. Simmer gently for a 
full hour, then drain through a sieve, return the liquor to pan 
and stir in a few spoonfuls of cream with great care. Serve 
with toasted bread, and, if liked, thicken with a little flour. 
Season to taste. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

Two quarts of oysters, one quart of milk, two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter, one teacupful hot water ; pepper, salt. 

Strain all the liquor from the oysters ; add the water and 
heat. When near the boil, add the seasoning, then the 
oysters. Cook about five minutes from the time they begin 
to simmer, until they " ruffle." Stir in the butter, cook one 
minute and pour into the tureen. Stir in the boi'ing milk, 
and send to table. 



THE EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 



LOBSTER SOUP. 

Procure a large hen fish, boiled, and with all its coral, if 
possible. Cut away from it all the meat in neat little pieces ; 
beat up the fins and minor claws in a mortar, then stew the 
results in a stew-pan, slowly, along with a little white stock ; 
season this with a bunch of sweet herbs ; a small onion, a 
little bit of celery, and a carrot may be placed in the stock, 
as also the toasted crust of a French roll. Season to taste 
with salt and a little cayenne. Simmer the whole for about 
an hour ; then strain and return the liquor to the saucepan, 
place in it the pieces of lobster, and having beat up the 
coral in a little flour and gravy, stir it in. Let the soup re- 
main on the fire for a few minutes without boiling and serve 
hot. A small strip of the rind of a lemon may be boiled in 
the stock, and a little nutmeg may be added to the season- 
ing. This is a troublesome soup to prepare, but there aie 
many who like it when it is well made. 



EGG BALLS FOR SOUP. 

Boil four eggs ; put into cold water ; mash yolks with 
yolk of one raw egg, and one teaspoonful of flour, pep- 
per, salt and parsley ; make into balls and boil two min- 
utes. 

NOODLES FOR SOUP. 

Rub into two eggs as much sifted flour as they will 
absorb ; then roll out until thin as a wafer ; dust over a little 
flour, and then roll over and over into a roll, cut off thin 
slices from the edge of the roll and shake out into long 
strips ; put them into the soup lightly and boil for ten 
minutes ; salt should be added while mixing with the flour 
about a saltspoonful. 



THE E VER Y-DA Y COOK-BOOK. 33 



IRISH STEW. STOVED POTATOES. 

These form excellent and nutritious dishes. The former 
dish can be made from a portion of the back ribs or neck 
of mutton, the fleshy part of which must be cut into cutlets. 
Flatten these pieces of meat with a roller, and dip them in a 
composition of pepper, salt, and flour. Peel potatoes and 
slice them to the extent of two pounds of potatoes for every 
pound of meat. An onion or two sliced into small bits will 
be required. Before building the materials into a goblet, 
melt a little suet or dripping in it, then commence by lay- 
ing in the pot a layer of potatoes, which dust well with pep- 
per and salt, then c layer of the meat sprinkled with the 
chopped onions, and . of 
molasses, or two pounds of coarse brown sugar. Mace, 
cloves and allspice may be added for spiced beef. 

Strew some of the salt in the bottom of a pickle-tub 
or barrel; then put in a layer of meat, strew this with 
salt, then add another layer of meat, and salt and meat 
alternately, until all is used. Let it remain one night. 
Dissolve the saleratus and saltpetre in a little warm 
water, and put it to the molasses or sugar ; then put it 
over the meat, add water enough to cover the meat, lay 
a board on it to keep it under the brine. The meat is fit 
for use after ten days. This receipt is for winter beef. 
Rather more salt may be used in warm weather. 

Towards spring take the brine from the meat, make it 
boiling hot, skim it clear, and when it is cooled, return 
it to the meat. 

Beef tongues and smoking pieces are fine pickled in 
this brine. Beef liver put in this brine for ten days and 
then wiped dry and smoked, is very fine. Cut it in 
slices, and fry or broil it. The brisket of beef, after 
being corned, may be smoked, and is very fine for boil- 
ing. 

Lean pieces of beef, cut properly from the hind quar- 
ter, are the proper pieces for being smoked There may 
be some fine pieces cut from the fore-quarter. 

After the beef has been in brine ten days or more wipe 
it dry, and hang it in a chimney where wood is burnt, 
or make a smothered fire of sawdust or chips, and keep 
it smoking for ten days; then rub fine black pepper over 
every part, to keep the flies from it, and hang it in a 
dry, dark, cool place. After a week it is fit for use. A 
strong, coarse brown paper, folded around beef, and 
fastened with paste, keeps it nicely. 

Tongues are smoked in the same manner. Hang them 
by a string put through the root end. Spiced brine for 
smoked beef or tongues will be generally liked 



THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 51 

* 

For convenience make a pickle as mentioned: for beet, 
keep it in the cellar, ready for pickling beef at any t^sne. 
Beef may remain in three or four or more days. 

TO BOIL CORNED BEEF. 

Put the beef in water enough to cover it. and let it 
heat slowly, and boil slowly, and be careful to take off 
the grease. Many think it much improved by boiling 
potatoes, turnips, and cabbages with it. In this case the 
vegetables must be pealed and all the grease carefully 
skimmed as fast as it rises. Allow about twenty minutes 
of boiling for each pound of meat. 

A NICE WAY TO SERVE COLD BEEF. 

Cut cold roast beef in slices, put gravy enough to 
cover them, and a wineglass of catsup or wine, or a 
lemon sliced thin; if you have not gravy, put hot water 
and a good bit of butter, with a teaspoonful or more of 
browned flour; put it in a closely covered stew-pan, and 
let it simmer gently for half an hour. If you choose, 
when the meat is down, cut a leek in thin slices, and 
chop a bunch of parsley small, and add it; serve boiled 
or mashed potatoes with it. This is equal to beef a-k> 
mode. 

Or, cold beef may be served cut in neat slices, gar' 
nished with sprigs of parsley, and made mustard, and 
tomato catsup in the castor; serve mashed, if not new 
potatoes, with it, and ripe fruit, or pie, or both, for des- 
sert, for a small family dinner. 

SPICED BEEF. 

Four pounds of round of beef chopped fine; take from 
it all fat; add to it three dozen small crackers rolled 
fine, four eggs, one cup of milk, one tablespoon ground 
mace, two tablespoons of black pepper, one tablespoon 



$6 THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

melted 6iktter; mix well and put in any tin pan that it 
will just fill, packing it well; baste with butter and water, 
and bake two hours in a slow oven. 



BROILED BEEFSTEAK. 

Lay a thick tender steak upon a gridiron over hot 
coals, having greased the bars with butter before the 
steak has been put upon it; (a steel gridiron with slender 
bars is to be preferred, the broad flat iron bars of grid- 
irons commonly used fry and scorch the meat, imparting 
a disagreeable flavor). When done on one side, have 
ready your platter warmed, with a little butter on it; 
lay the steak upon the platter with the cooked side down, 
tnat the juices which have gathered may run on the 
platter, but do not press the meat; then lay your beef- 
steak again upon the gridiron quickly and cook the 
other side. When done to your liking, put again on the 
platter, spread lightly with butter, place where it will 
keep warm for a few moments, but not to let the butter 
become oily (over boiling steam is best); and then serve 
on hot plates. Beefsteak should never be seasoned with 
salt and pepper while cooking. If your meat is tough, 
pound well with a steak mallet on both sides. 

FRIED BEEFSTEAKS. 

Cut some of the fat from the steak, and put it in a fry 
ing pan and set it over the fire; if the steaks are not very 
tender, beat them with a rolling pin, and when the fat is 
boiling hot, put the steak evenly in. cover the pan and 
let it fry briskly until one side is done, sprinkle a little 
pepper and salt over, and turn the other; let it be rare 
or well-done as may be liked; take the steak on a hot 
dish, add a wineglass or less of boiling water or catsup 
to the gravy; let it boil up once, and pour it in the dish 
with the steak. 



THE E VERY-DA Y COOK-BOOK. 57 



BEEFSTEAK PIE. 

Take some fine tender steaks, beat them a little, season 
with a saltspoonful of pepper and a teaspoonful of salt 
to a two-pound steak ; put bits of butter, the size of a 
hickory nut, over the whole surface, dredge a teaspoon- 
ful of flour over, then roll it up and cut it in pieces two 
inches long ; put a rich pie paste around the sides and 
bottom of a tin basin ; put in the pieces of steak, nearly 
fill the basin with water, add a piece of butter the size 
of a large egg, cut small, dredge' in a teaspoonful of flour, 
add a little pepper and salt, lay skewers across the basin, 
roll a top crust to half an inch thickness, cut a slit in the 
centre ; dip your fingers in flour and neatly pinch the top 
and side crust together all around the edge. Bake one hour 
in a quick oven. 

BOUSED LEG OF MUTTON. 

Mutton, water, salt. A leg of mutton for boiling should 
not hang too long, as it will not look a good color when 
dressed. Cut off the shank-bone, trim the knuckle, and 
wash and wipe it very clean ; plunge it into sufficient boil- 
ing water to cover it ; let it boil up, then draw the sauce- 
pan to the side of the fire, where it should remain till the 
finger can be borne in the water. Then place it suffi- 
ciently near the fire that the water may gently simmer, 
and be very carettn mat it does not boil fast, or the meat 
will be hard. Skim well, add a little salt, and in about 
two and one quarter hours after the water begins to sim- 
mer, a moderate-sized leg of mutton will be done. Serve 
with carrots and mashed turnips, which may be boiled 
with the meat, and send caper sauce to table with it in a 
tureen. 



58 THE EVERf-DAY COOK-BOOK. 



ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON. 

Loin A mutton, a little salt. Cut and trim off the 
superfluous fat, and see that the butcher joints the meat 
prope.Hy, as thereby much annoyance is saved to the 
carver, when it comes to table. Have ready a nice clear 
fire (it need not be a very wide, large one), put down the 
meat, dredge with flour, and baste well until it is done. 

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. 

Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece of but- 
ten Cut the chops from a well-hung, tender loin of 
mutton, remove a portion of the fat, and trim them into 
a nice shape; slightly beat and level them; place the 
gridiron over a bright, clear fire, rub the bars with a lit- 
tle fat, and lay on the chops. While broiling, frequently 
turn them, and in about eight minutes they will be done. 
Season with pepper and salt, dish them on a very hot 
dish, rub a small piece of butter on each chop, and serve 
very hot and expeditiously. 

MUTTON CHOP FRIED. 

Cut some fine mutton chops without much fat, rub 
aver both sides with a mixture of salt and pepper, dip 
them in wheat flour or rolled crackers, and fry in hot 
lard or beef drippings, when both sides are a fine brown, 
take them on a hot dish, put a wine-glass of hot water 
in the pan, let it become hot, stir in a teaspoonful ot 
browned flour, let it boil up at once, and serve in the pan 
with the meat. 

ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 

Lamb, a little salt. To obtain the flavor of lamb in 
perfection it should not be long kept; time to cool is all 



THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOO 'A*. 9 

that Is required; and though the meat may be somewha'f 
thready, the juices and flavor will he infinitely uperior 
to that of lamb that has been killed two or three days 
Make up the fire in good time, that li may be clear and 
brisk when the joint is put down. Place it at sufficient 
distance to prevent the fat irom burning, and baste it 
constantly till the moment of serving. Lamb should be 
very thoroughly done without being dried up, and not 
the slightest appearance of red gravy should be visible, 
as in roast mutton: this rule is applicable to all young 
white meats. Serve with a little gravy made in the 
dripping-pan, the same cfc for other roasts, and send to 
table with it a tureen of mint sauce. 

LAMBS' SWEETBREADS. 

Two or three sweetbreads, one-half pint of veal stock, 
white pepper and salt to taste, a small bunch of green 
onions, one blade of pounded rnace, thickening of butter 
and flour, two eggs, nearly one-half pint of cream, one 
teaspoonful of minced parsley, a very little grated nut. 
meg. 

Mode : Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water, and 
put them into a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to 
cover them, and let them simmer for ten minutes; then 
take them out and put them into cold water. Now lard 
them, lay them in a stewpan, add the stock, seasoning, 
onions, mace, and a thickening of butter and flour, and 
stew gently for one quarter of an hour or twenty min- 
utes. Beat up the egg with the cream, to which add the 
minced parsley and very little grated nutmeg. Put this to 
the other ingredients; stir it well till quite hot, but do not 
let it boil after the cream is added, or it will curdle. 
Have ready some asparagus-tops, boiled; add these ttf 
the sweetbreads, and serve. 

LAMB STEAK dipped in egg, and then in biscuit cr 



6c THE VER Y-DA Y COOK-BOOK. 

bread-crumbs, and fried until it is brown, helps to make 
variety for the breakfast table. With baked sweet potatoes, 
good coffee, and buttered toast or corn muffins, one may be- 
gin the day with courage. 

TO ROAST VEAL. 

Rinse the meat in cold water ; if any part is bloody, wash 
it off ; make a mixture of pepper and salt, allowing a large 
teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper for each 
pound of meat ; wipe the meat dry ; then rub the seasoning 
into every part, shape it neatly, and fasten it with skewers, 
and put it on a spit, or set it on a trivet or muffin rings, in a 
pan ; stick bits of butter over the whole upper surface ; 
dredge a little flour over, put a pint of water in the pan to 
baste with, and roast it before the fire in a Dutch oven or 
reflector, or put it into a hot oven ; baste it occasionally, 
turn it if necessary that every part may be done ; if the 
water wastes add more, that the gravy may not burn ; allow 
fifteen minutes for each pound of meat ; a piece weighing 
four or five pounds will then require one hour, or an hour 
and a quarter. 

VEAL CHOPS. 

Cut veal chops about an inch thick ; beat them flat 
with a rolling-pin, put them in a pan, pour boiling water 
over them, and set them over the fire for five minutes ; 
then take them up and wipe them dry; mix a table- 
spoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper for each 
pound of meat ; rub each chop over with this, then dip 
them, first into beaten egg, then into rolled crackers as 
much as they will take up ; then finish by frying in hot 
lard or beef dripping ; or broil them. For the broil have 
some sweet butter on a steak dish; broil the chops until 
well done, over a bright clear fire of coals; (let them do 
gently that they may be well done,) then take them on 



THE E VER Y-DA Y COOK-BOOK. 6 1 

to the butter, turn them carefully once or twice in "it, and 
serve. Or dip the chops into a batter, made of one egg 
beaten with half a teacup of milk, and as much wheat flour 
as may be necessary. Or simply dip the chops without 
parboiling into wheat flour ; make some lard or beef fat hot 
in a frying-pan ; lay the chops in, and when one side is a 
fine delicate brown, turn the other. When all are done, 
take them up, put a very little hot water into the pan, then 
put it in the dish with the chops. 

Or make a flour gravy thus : After frying them as last 
directed, add a tablespoonful more of fat to that in the pan, 
let it become boiling hot ; make a thin batter, of a small 
tablespoonful of wheat flour and cold water; add a little 
more salt and pepper to the gravy, then gradually stir in the 
batter ; stir it until it is cooked and a nice brown ; then put 
it over the meat, or in the dish with it ; if it is thicker than 
is liked, add a little boiling water. 

VEAL CUTLETS. 

Two or three pounds of veal cutlets, egg and bread-crumbs, 
two tablespoonfuls of minced savory herbs, salt and pepper 
to taste, a little grated nutmeg. 

Cut the cutlets about three quarters of an inch in 
thickness, flatten them, and brush them over with the 
yolk of an egg ; dip them into bread-crumbs and minced 
herbs, season with pepper and salt and 'grated nutmeg, 
and fold each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil 
them, and send them to table with melted butter or a good 
gravy. 

STUFFED FILLET OF VEAL WITH BACON 

Take out the bone from the meat, and pin into a 
round with skewers. Bind securely with soft tapes. 
Fill the cavity left by the bone with a force-meat of 
crumbs, chopped pork, thyme, and parsley, seasoned 



6 2 THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 

W*** 

with pepper, salt, nutmeg and a pinch of lemon-peel. 
Cover the top of the fillet with thin slices of cold cooked, 
fat bacon or salt pork, tying them in place with twines 
crossing the meat in all directions. Put into a pot with 
two cups of boiling water, and cook slowly and steadily 
two hours. Then take from the pot and put into a drip- 
ping-pan. Undo the strings and tapes. Brush the meat 
all over with raw egg, sift rolled cracker thickly over it, 
and set in the oven for half an hour, basting often with 
gravy from the pot. When it is well browned, lay upon a hoi 
dish with the pork about it. Strain and thicken the gravy, 
and serve in a boat. 

If your fillet be large, cook twice as long in the pot. Th 
time given above is for one weighing five pounds. 

-, 
VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic.) 

A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham 
two hard-boiled eggs, two tablespoonfuls of minced parsley 
a little pepper, good gravy, or stock No. 109. 
Cut off all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the 
eggs into slices. Procure a pretty mould ; lay veal, ham, 
eggs, and parsley in layers, with a little pepper between 
each, and when the mould is full, get some strong stock, and 
fill up the shape. Bake for one half hour, and when cold, 
turn it out. 

VEAL PIE. 

Cut a breast of veal small, and put it in a stewpan, 
with hot water to cover it ; add to it a tablespoonful of 
salt, and set it over the fire ; take off the scum as it rises ; 
when the meat is tender, turn it into a dish to cool ; take 
out all the smali bones, butter a tin or earthen basin or 
pudding-pan, line it with a pie paste, lay some of the 
parboiled meat in to half fill it ; put bits of butter the 



THE VER Y-DA Y COOK-BOOK. 63 

size of a hickory nut all over the meat ; shake pepper over, 
dredge wheat flour over until it looks white ; then fill it 
nearly to the top with some of the water in which the meat 
was boiled ; roll a cover for the top of the crust, puff 
paste it, giving it two or three turns, and roll it to nearly 
half an inch thickness ; cut a slit in the centre, and make 
several small incisions on either side of it ; lay some skewers 
across the pie, put the crust on, trim the edges neatly with 
a knife ; bake one hour in a quick oven. A breast of veal 
will make two two-quart basin pies ; half a pound of nice 
corned pork, cut in thin slices and parboiled with the meat, 
will make it very nice, and very little, if any butter, will be 
required for the pie ; when pork is used, no other salt will 
be necessary. 

> 

BOILED CALF'S HEAD (without the skin> 

Calf's head, water, a little salt, four tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper 
and salt to taste, one tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, and the 
brains removed, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Lay 
the brains also into warm wate, to soak, and let them 
remain for about an hour. Put the head into a stew- 
pan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when it 
boils, add a little salt ; take off every particle of scum as it 
rises, and boil the head until perfectly tender. Boil the 
brains, chop them, and mix with them melted butter, 
minced parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice in the above 
proportion. Take up the head, skin the longue, and put 
it on a small dish with the brains round it. Have ready 
some parsley and butter, smother the head with it, and 
the remainder send to table in a tureen. Bacon, ham, 
pickled pork, or a pig's cheek are indispensable with calf s 
head. The brains are sometimes chopped with hard-boiled 
eggs. 



64 THE E VER Y-DA F COOK-BOOK. 

CALF'S HEAD CHEESE. 

Boil a calf's head in water enough to cover it, until the 
meat leaves the bones, then take it with a skimmer into a 
wooden bowl or tray ; take from it every particle of bone ; 
chop it small ; season with pepper and salt : a heaping 
tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper will 
be sufficient ; if liked, add a tablespoonful of finely chopped 
sweet herbs ; lay a cloth in a colander, put the minced 
meat into it, then fold the cloth closely over it, lay a plate 
over, and on it a gentle weight. When cold it may be 
sliced thin for supper or sandwiches. Spread each slice 
with made mustard. 

BOILED CALF'S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER. 

Two calf's feet, two slices of bacon, two ounces of butter, 
two tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, salt and whole pepper to 
taste, one onion, a bunch of savory herbs, four cloves, one 
blade of mace, water, parsley and butter. 

Procure two white calf's feet ; bone them as far as the 
first joint, and put them into warm water to soak for two 
hours. Then put the bacon, butter, lemon-juice, onion, 
herbs, spices, and seasoning into a stewpan ; lay in the feet, 
and pour in just sufficient water to cover the whole. Stew 
gently for about three hours ; take out the feet, dish them, 
and cover with parsley and butter. 

The liquor they were boiled in should be strained and put 
by in a clean basin for use ; it will be found very good as an 
addition to gravies, etc., etc. 

CALF'S LIVER AND BACON. 

Two or three pounds of liver, bacon, pepper and salt to 
taste, a small piece of butter, flour, two tablespoonfuls of 
lemon-juice, one quarter pint of water. 

Cut the liver in thin slices, and cut as many slices of 



THE E VERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 65 

bacon as there are of liver; fry the bacon first, and put 
that on a hot dish before the fire. Fry the liver in the 
fat which comes from the bacon, after seasoning it with 
pepper and salt, and dredging over it a very little flour. 
Turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, and 
when done, lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon 
between each. Pour away the bacon fat, put in a small 
piece of butter, dredge in a little flour, add the lemon- 
juice and water, give one boil, and pour it in the middle 
of the dish. 

SWEETBREAD, 



Three sweetbreads, egg, and bread-crumbs, oiled but- 
ter, three slices of toast, brown gravy. 

Choose large white sweetbreads; put them into warm 
water to draw out the blood, and to improve their color; 
let them remain for rather more than one hour; then put 
them into boiling water, and allow them to simmer for 
about ten minutes, which renders them firm. Take them 
up, drain them, brush over the egg, sprinkle with bread- 
crumbs; dip them in egg again, and then into more 
bread-crumbs. Drop on them a little oiled butter, and 
put the sweetbreads into a moderately heated oven, and 
let them bake for nearly three quarters of an hour. 
Make three pieces of toast; place the sweetbreads on the 
toast, and pour round, but not over them, a good brown 
gravy. 

EGGED VEAL HASH. 

Chop fine remnants of coal roast veal. Moisten with 
the gravy or water. When hot, break into it three or 
four eggs, according to the quantity of veal. When the 
eggs are cooked, stir into it a spoonful of butter, and 
serve quickly. If to your taste, shake in a little parsley. 
Should you lack quantity, half a cup of fine stale bres*i 
crumbs are no disadvantage. 



(36 THE VER Y-DA V COOK-BOOK. 



ROAST BEEP, WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

Have your meat ready for roasting on Saturday, always, 
Roast upon a grating of several clean sticks (not pine) laid 
over the dripping-pan. Dash a cup of boiling water ovei 
the beef when it goes into the oven ; baste often, and see 
that the fat does not scorch. About three-quarters of in 
hour before it is done, mix the pudding. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

One pint of milk, four eggs, whites and yolks beaten sepa- 
rately ; two cups of flour prepared flour is best ; one tea- 
spoonful of salt. 

Use less flour if the batter grows too stiff. Mix quickly ; 
pour off the fat from the top of the gravy in the dripping-pan, 
leaving just enough to prevent the pudding from sticking to 
the bottom. Pour in the batter and continue to roast the 
beef, letting the dripping fall upon the pudding below. The 
oven should be brisk by this time. Baste the meat with the 
gravy you have taken out to make room for the batter. In 
serving, cut the pudding into squares and lay about the meat 
in the dish. It is very delicious. 

BEEP HEART BAKED OR ROASTED. 

Cut a beef heart in two, take out the strings from the in- 
side ; wash it with warm water, rub the inside with pep- 
per and salt, and fill it with a stuffing made of bread 
and butter moistened with water, and seasoned with pep- 
per and salt, and, if liked, a sprig of thyme made fine ; 
put it together and tie a string around it, rub the outside 
with pepper and salt ; stick bits of butter on, then dredge 
flour over, and set it on a trivet, or muffin rings, in a 
dripping pan ; put a pint of water in to baste with, then 



THE EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK. 6? 

roast it before a hot fire, or in a hot oven; turn it around 
and baste frequently. One hour will roast or bake it; 
when done, take it up, cut a lemon in thin slices, and put 
it in the pan with a bit of butter; dredged in a teaspoon- 
ful of flour; let it brown; add a sma'l teacup of boiling 
water, stir it smooth, and serve in a ravy tureen. 

BEEF KIDNEY. 

Cut the kidney into thin slices, flour them, and fry of 
a nice brown. Whe'i done, make a gravy in the pan by 
pouring away the fat* putting in a small piece of butter, 
one quarter pint of boiling wate ,pepper and salt, and a 
tablespoonful of mushroom catsi' p. Let the gravy just 
boil up, pour over the kidney, and serve. 

POTTED BEEF. 

Two pounds of lean beef, one tablespoonfuf of water, 
one quarter pound of butter, a seasoning to taste of salt, 
cayenne, pounded mace, and black pepper. Procure a 
nice piece of lean beef, as possible from gristle, skin, etc., 
and put it into a jar (if at hand,