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EVERYDAY   LIFE   AMONG 
THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 


MADAM    YOKO,    OUR    I'AKAMOUNT    CHIEFTAINESS,    MENDI    TKllJI': 


EVERYDAY   LIFE 


AMON( 


THE   HEAD-HUNTERS 

AND    OTHER    EXPERIENCES 
FROM   EAST  TO   WEST 


BY 

DOROTHY   CATOR 


WITH  34  ILLUSTRATIONS  FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS 


LONGMANS,     GREEN,     AND    CO. 

39    PATERNOSTER    ROW,    LONDON 

NEW    YORK    AND    BOMBAY 

1905 

All  rights  reserved 


P5 
C37 


TO 

MY   MOTHER 

AND   TO 
J.     I.     B.,     F.R.G.S. 


INTRODUCTION 

AS    I    have    travelled    where    no    other   white 

-^  ^  woman    has   ever    been,    and    lived   among 

practically  unknown   tribes  both  in   Borneo  and 

Africa,  I  have  often  been  asked  to  write  a  book ; 

but  till  now  I  have  wisely  refused,  as  I  have  no 

idea  hov/  it  ought  to  be  done.      I   have  a  hazy 

notion  that  I  ought  to  know  all  about  prehistoric 

and  glacial  periods,  whereas  they  convey  nothing 

to  my  mind  ;   and  the  subject  of  composed  and 

decomposed   porphyrite   rocks   and   metamorphic 

states   is    unintelligible    gibberish   to   me :    so   if 

this   ever   appears   in   print,   please   don't   expect 

too  much. 

D.  C. 

Atdgust,  1905 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER   I 

EN   ROUTE  TO   BORNEO 

From  Marseilles  to  Colombo — Life  on  a  "  Messageries  "  steamer — 
Singapore  Hotel  arrangements — Johore — Incidents  of  harem 
life — On  the  spoor  of  a  man-eating  tiger  .  .  Pages  i-8 

CHAPTER   H 

FIRST   IMPRESSIONS   OF   BORNEO 

From  Singapore  to  Borneo — Labuan — Kinabalu  and  its  vegetation 
— Its  place  in  native  superstitions  —  Kudat — A  plucky  death  — 
Sandakan  Bay  and  town — Sandakan  as  "a  place  for  ladies"  and 
boys — Daily  life  in  the  Settlement — Timber  and  timber  trade — 
Flora — Snakes  and  lizards  .  .  ...  9-20 

CHAPTER    III 

IN   AND  AROUND  SANDAKAN 

The  servant  question  in  Borneo — Marketing  in  Sandakan — The 
Chinese  as  market -gardeners  —  Delights  and  drawbacks  of 
durians — The  Sulus — Spaniards  as  colonists — The  Bajows  and 
their  villages — The  Dyaks — Chinese  class  difficulties — Products 
of  the  plantations  .....        21-29 

CHAPTER   IV 

TO   THE  birds'   NESTS  CAVES 

Across  the  bay — Camping  out  on  the  Sapagay — A  plague  of  leeches 
— The  lower  cave — Bats  and  swallows — Perils  by  the  way — The 
upper  caves — Swallows'  nests  —  Native  collectors  and  their 
methods  ......        .30-41 


X  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  V 

ON   A   DESERT   ISLAND 

A  stormy  trip — A  coral  fairyland — Life  in  Taganak — Turtles  and 
turtles'  eggs — Runaway  slaves — Lower  races  and  superior  races 
— Attitude  of  the  Dutch — Inadequate  punishment  of  cruelty — 
A  bathing  adventure     ....  Pages  42-48 

CHAPTER  VI 

IN   THE   HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY 

Up  the  Kinabatangan — Entertainments  by  the  way — The  swamp 
district — Sago  palms  and  their  produce — Estates  in  the  tobacco 
region  and  their  working — Chinese  labour  and  Chinese  charac- 
teristics— Decay  of  Malay  trade  with  China — Native  traits — The 
Dusuns — Blood  feuds — Mahometanism — Native  hospitality — A 
white  phenomenon  and  her  audience — Native  law  cases — English 
justice — Inexperience  and  insularity — Dusun  marriage  customs 
— Medicine  as  a  reward — A  case  and  its  fee — A  cough  cure — 
Native  superstitions        .....         49-68 

CHAPTER  VII 

ON   THE   KINABATANGAN 

Up  the  river  in  a  dug-out — Crocodile  trapping — Crocodiles  and 
their  victims — Brave  rescue  by  a  planter — A  case  of  cowardice — 
— Night  on  the  river  and  in  the  jungle — How  "most  excellent 
Australian  dampers  "  are  made — Food  by  the  way — Drawbacks 
to  bathing — The  river  in  flood — A  poisonous  mosquito  bite  and 
its  consequences  —  Christmas  in  Penungah  —  Wonderful  mince- 
pies   .......        69-82 

CHAPTER  VIII 

WE    GIVE    A    BALL 

Preparations — Early  arrivals  —  Our  Dyak  guests  —  The  centre  of 
attraction  —  Pengasi  drinking — The  dance  —  Native  notions  of 
amusement — Friendly  "conversation"  with  native  women  .        83-88 

CHAPTER   IX 

A   MURDER  CASE   IN   THE   HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY 

The  murder — By  canoe  to  the  scene  of  the  crime — A  fruitless  journey 
— A  clue  and  a  capture — The  prisoners — An  escape — Running 
amok — Attack  on  a  German  lady — Precautions  at  Penungah — In 
sole  charge  of  a  murderer — Panic  spreads  up  the  river — Back  to 
the  Murut  country — The  head-hunting  tribes — Welcome  among 
the  Muruts — Jungle-paths — Glories  of  the  jungle     .  .        89-98 


CONTENTS  xi 

CHAPTER  X 

AMONG  THE  HEAD-HUNTERS 
A  Romanow  town — Our  reception — The  "white  woman"  and  the 
natives — The  village  dwelling — Night  in  a  Romanow  "house" 
— Home  life  among  the  Muruts — Morality  v.  Civilisation— Mis- 
sions and  their  defects — The  "mote  in  our  brother's  eye" — 
Bibles  and  their  abuse — Head-hunting  and  the  head-hunters — 
Barbarism  v,  Christianity  .  .  .         Pages  99-107 

CHAPTER  XI 

AMONG  THE  HEAD-HUNTERS — continued 
Murut  characteristics  and  customs — The  upas  poison  and  its  pre- 
paration— Native  funeral  customs — Gum  camphor  and  its  collec- 
tion—  Jungle  produce — Bees  in  the  jungle  —  Native  food  and 
clothing — Wild  pig — War  customs — Jewellery  and  ornaments — 
Everyday  life  among  the  Romanows — Fire-making  methods — A 
war  dance — The  murder  trial  and  its  close — Dynamiting  for  fish 
—  Down  river — Birds,  beasts,  and  butterflies  in  the  jungle  — 
Orang-utans — The  rhinoceros — Shooting  the  rapids  .     108-123 

CHAPTER  XH 

RETURN     HOME  —  CHINA,    JAPAN,    AND     THE 
CANADIAN-PACIFIC   ROUTE 

Farewell  to  Sandakan — The  "tail-end"  of  a  typhoon — From  Hong 
Kong  to  Canton — Chinese  methods  and  Japanese — Canton  shops, 
temples,  and  the  prison — Chinese  law  and  family  life — A  Chinese 
case  in  Borneo — Chinese  beggars — First  impressions  of  Japan 
— Japanese  art — Japanese  characteristics — Immorality  in  Japan 
and  European  responsibility  —  Lying  as  a  custom  —  Excess  of 
politeness  and  the  reverse — "Perfect  art"  and  Golliwogs — 
Temples  and  priests — In  the  interior — Life  in  a  village  inn — 
From  Japan  to  Liverpool  .  .  .  .     124-143 

CHAPTER  Xni 

ON   THE   WEST   COAST 

The  Protectorate — Leaving  home — The  voyage — Conakry — Rules 
of  health  and  contradictory  advice  —  Old  coasters  and  new- 
comers—  "The  white  man's  grave" — Freetown — The  black  com- 
munity and  its  ideal — Sierra  Leonians  and  native  chiefs — From 
Freetown  to  Moyamba — Moyamba — In  an  old  mud  hut — Travel- 
ling in  the  interior — Native  bridges — Dangers  of  West  African 
V.  Swiss  mountain-climbing — "Patrolling":  its  drawbacks  and 
advantages — On  the  march  —  The  bush  —  The  swamps — An 
African  marsh  and  a  London  slum  .  ,  .         145-159 


xii  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER   XIV 

ON   PATROL 

In  a  native  villag-e — The  Court  Mouse — White  bogies — Attractions 
of  a  mud  hut — An  official  reception — Affairs  of  State — Lying 
ordinary  and  extraordinary — Christianity  and  "petticoats" — 
Father  Browne — Missions  and  the  native  mind      .         Pages  160-167 

CHAPTER   XV 

IN    THE    BUSH 

Secret  societies  and  human  sacrifices — The  Leopard  and  Crocodile 
Societies — Difliculties  in  the  way  of  justice — Disappearance  of 
cannibalism — "Good  beef" — The  rising  of  1898  and  its  results — 
England's  forgotten  servants — The  climate — The  drink  question 
— Adventures  with  snakes — Life  in  the  bush — Small-pox  168-177 

CHAPTER   XVI 

NATIVE    LIFE   AND    INDUSTRIES 

Native  unfitness  for  positions  of  trust — Home  life — Drones  and 
workers — Farms  and  farming — Rice-growing  and  coffee-gather- 
ing— Products  of  the  interior — Native  industries — Hairdressing 
as  an  art — Women's  clothing — Tattooing — Devotion  to  mothers 

178-185 

CHAPTER  XVII 

FETISH    WORSHIP 

Fetish  signs — What  is  "Porro"? — The  "devil's"  place  in  native 
worship — Porro  bushes  and  Porro  men — Initiation  of  members 
— Native  "medicine  men" — The  Porro  devil — Porro  as  a  useful 
institution — "Bundu"  and  Bundu  bushes — The  training  of  girls 
— Birth  and  funeral  ceremonies  .  ,  .         186-196 

CHAPTER  XVIII 

A  CORONATION 

The  native  Constitution — Feudal  system  of  government — Limita- 
tions of  native  rights — Domestic  slavery — Election  of  a  king — 
Customs  preceding  coronation — The  coronation  ceremony — An 
invitation  refused — Presentation  of  the  king  to  his  people — 
Native  oratory — Tom-tomming  as  an  institution — Native  danc- 
ing-girls— A  chieftainess  .  .  .  .         197-207 

EPILOGUE 

Life  in  London  and  in  the  bush — Sundays  on  the  West  Coast  and 
at  home  —  Phases  of  religious  worship — An  appeal — Value  of 
letters  to  the  "exile" — The  fortnightly  mail:  its  possibilities 
and  disappointments  .....        208-212 


;} 


:} 


34 


LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 

MADAM  YOKO.      OUR   PARAMOUNT  CHIEFTAINESS, 

MENDi  TRIBE  .  ...  Frontispiece 

FACE   PAGE 

THE   HOSPITAL,    SANDAKAU    .                     .  .               .           ."j 

OUR    HOUSE-BOAT    IN    THE    INTERIOR,    WITH  DYAK    POLICE  \       17 

BOATMEN            .                    .                    .  .                .           .J 

CROSSING  SWAMP     . 

THE  ENTRANCE  OF  THE  GOMANTON   CAVES 

NATIVES  BATHING   IN   THE   RIVER          .  .                .           .           ^\ 

HEAD-HUNTERS     AT     KANINGAU     WITH     WHOM    WE     LIVED.  ^ 

ALL   MEN             .                    .                     .  ... 

\       96 

TWO     HEAD-HUNTERS,     ONE     PROUDLY    FEELING     THAT     HE  I 

LOOKS  THOROUGHLY  EUROPEAN    .  .  .  .j 

THE  CHIEF  HEAD-HUNTERS  OF  THE  KANINGAU  SETTLEMENT"! 

\     100 
A   HEAD-HUNTER  WOMAN   WINNOWING   RICE        .  .  .J 

TENGARA   MURUT   FISHERMEN  .  .  •  •! 

INTERIOR  OF  A  ROMANOW  HEAD-HUNTERS'  VILLAGE  WHERE  \    I09 

WE  STAYED        .  .  .  .  .  .J 

MURUT    HEAD-HUNTERS    WAITING     TO    SPEAR     FISH    AFTER  \ 

DYNAMITE  SHOT  .  .  .  .  . I 

>     120 

HEAD-HUNTING    CHIEF    AND    HIS   WIFE    WITH    THE   BAMBOO  1 

WATER-CANS  THEY  ALWAYS   USE   .  .  .  .) 

THE  AUTHOR  .... 

DICK   IN  OUR  AFRICAN   BUSH   DRAWING-ROOM     . 
BANGGI   RIVER   FORD  AT   KWALU  .  ...         150 

OUT  SHOOTING:   MENDI   BOY   WITH   CARTRIDGES  .  .         1 53 


131 


XIV 


LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


*' MAMMOCKING "  ON   MAIN    ROAD   IN   THE   BUSH 

A    SWAMP    BRIDGE:    OUR   MEN    IN   THE    DISTANCE 

BAI    KAFARI   WITH   A   RING   IN   HIS   NOSE,   AND   FOUR  OTHER 

CHIEFS 
A   TIMANI    CHIEF   SITTING    IN    STATE 
A    HEAD   TIMANI    TOM-TOMMER 
ONE   OF   THE   RIVEK    FERRIES 
NATIVE   VILLAGE      , 
WOMEN   SPINNING    . 
MENDI    FISHING   GIRLS 
OUR   HOUSE   BEING   BUILT       . 

NATIVES   WHITEWASHING,    AND   AFRICAN    HEN  ! 
TOM-TOMMERS  PREPARING   FOR  OUTBURST  OF   MUSIC 
OTHER   NATIVE  CHIEFS 
AT  THE  CORONATION 
MENDI   WOMEN   CARRYING   WATER 
MADAM  YOKO'S   DANCING   GIRLS 


I'AtlE 

163 
170 

179 
181 
182 

194 

200 
205 


EVERYDAY    LIFE    AMONG 
THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

CHAPTER    I 
EN  ROUTE  TO    BORNEO 

A  FEW  years  ago  Borneo  was  believed  to  have 
a  brilliant  future  before  it,  and  Dick  was 
supposed  to  have  done  very  well  for  himself  when 
he  went  out  as  a  cadet  in  the  British  North  Borneo 
Government. 

He  did  not  at  once  find  diamond  mines  outside 
his  door,  which  wa.s  disappointing,  but  he  thought 
it  good  enough  after  three  years  to  come  home  on 
"  urgent  private  affairs  "  to  fetch  me. 

We  were  married  in  London,  and  left  England 
the  same  day,  and  with  all  respect  to  Dick  I  can 
honestly  say  it  was  the  most  miserable  day  of  my 
life.  I  moved  and  smiled  and  played  through  it 
all  somehow,  but  the  only  reality  about  me  was  an 

B 


a  AMONG    THE    HEy\D-IIUNTERS 

unbearable  pain  at  leaving  home.      I  must  have 
been  a  most  amusing-  companion  ! 

We  left  Marseilles  two  or  three  days  afterwards 
on  one  of  the  Messagerie  boats  for  Singapore,  but 
we  broke  our  journey  at  Alexandria,  and  went  up 
to  Cairo,  joining  another  boat  on  the  same  line  a 
week  later. 

It  was  all  new  and  most  interesting,  the  fleet  of 
little  boats  which  shot  out  one  after  another  from 
the  wharf  the  first  moment  they  caught  sight  of 
us,  and  the  crowd  of  black  beings  swarming  on  to 
our  steamer  directly  it  stopped,  chattering  and 
screaming  over  our  baggage,  and  in  their  anxiety 
to  get  our  custom  grabbing  at  everything  we  wished 
them  to  leave  alone  :  the  quiet  cool  night  journey 
to  Cairo  through  date  palms  and  rice  fields,  quite 
flat,  but  weirdly  picturesque  by  moonlight ;  and 
then  modern  Cairo  with  its  luxurious  and  bril- 
liantly lighted  hotels,  and  latest  Paris  fashions, 
side  by  side  with  the  Cairo  of  a  few  thousand 
years  ago.  The  brilliance  of  the  present  life, 
here  one  moment  and  gone  the  next,  leaving 
no  trace  behind  it,  spending  all  its  money  and 
energy  and  strength  with  the  magnificent  aim  of 
never  having  a  moment  unamused,  contrast- 
ing strangely  with  ancient  Cairo  which  in  the 
Sphinx   and    Pyramids   has   written    its   undying 


EN  ROUTE  TO   BORNEO  3 

history  and  reared  its  matchless  monuments  to  all 
time.  We  call  those  days  barbaric  and  these 
civilised.     I  wonder  whether  we  are  right. 

We  then  went  to  Colombo,  staying  a  few  hours 
at  Suez  and  Aden  on  our  way. 

The  banks  of  the  Suez  Canal,  with  its  camels 
and  flowing-gowned  Arabs,  are  exactly  like  a 
series  of  Old  Testament  pictures.  Manners  and 
customs  in  the  East  have  evidently  not  changed 
in  the  same  way  that  ours  have.  In  Ceylon  we 
had  to  say  good-bye  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Talbot  and 
Miss  Grimston.  We  haven't  seen  them  since,  but 
I  am  always  hoping  we  shall  meet  somewhere,  as 
they  made  all  the  difference  to  our  journey. 

My  first  impressions  of  life  on  board  ship  were 
very  funny.  An  old  Turkish  vizier  got  off  at 
Colombo,  who  had  made  himself  very  agreeable 
to  me.  He  couldn't  understand  my  daring  to  go 
to  the  other  end  of  the  world  alone  with  my 
husband,  but  he  told  me  my  eyes  were  like  stars, 
my  teeth  like  pearls,  and  my  hair  golden  as  the 
setting  sun,  which  showed  a  more  than  vivid 
imagination,  but  was  quite  pleasing,  except  to 
Dick,  who  only  looked  on  him  as  a  dirty  old  man. 
To  speak  truthfully  he  wasn't  very  far  wrong,  as 
shipwreck  had  once  caught  him  in  his  bath,  and 
from   that   day,   whenever  he  travelled,   however 


4  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

long  the  voyage,  he  abjured  all  water,  and  never 
undressed  for  fear  of  the  same  disastrous  conse- 
quences. 

You  always  meet  some  people  on  board  different 
from  anyone  you  have  ever  met  on  land,  and  the 
sameness  of  a  long  journey  is  certainly  varied  by 
watching  their  peculiarities,  which  generally  show 
themselves  in  a  mania  for  one  of  four  things — 
drinking,  gambling,  flirting,  or  praying.  Excess 
in  all  four  is  constantly  going  on  at  one  and  the 
same  time.  The  first  two  hurt  the  people  them- 
selves most,  and  the  third  is  the  most  common  ; 
but  to  the  general  public  the  last  is  certainly  the 
most  trying.  People  who  know  they  are  saved, 
and  who  are  equally  certain  you  aren't,  are  great 
nuisances.  On  one  of  my  last  voyages  we  had 
two  little  women  who  impressed  on  us  that  their 
mission  was  to  save  souls,  which  was  certainly 
a  splendid  work,  but  I  don't  think  they  went  about 
it  in  a  way  which  was  likely  to  ensure  them  much 
success. 

They  prayed  in  public,  however  inconvenient 
the  time  ;  they  brought  a  Bible  always  into  table 
d'hote,  though  they  had  such  enormous  appetites 
that  they  had  absolutely  no  time  to  use  it,  and  they 
sang  hymns  with  shut  eyes  to  drown,  if  possible, 
a  gramophone  which  had  been  wound  up  and  set 


EN  ROUTE  TO    BORNEO  5 

going  with  comic  songs.  A  gramophone  is  ugly 
enough  at  any  time,  but  accompanied  by  hymns  it 
becomes  most  painful.  The  tracts,  too,  that  are 
distributed  on  board  are  very  funny.  I  have 
never  forgotten  one  against  smoking;  it  was  the 
sad  story  of  three  men,  two  of  whom  died  of 
dissipated  lives  at  the  age  respectively  of  seven- 
teen and  nineteen,  from  no  other  cause,  to  begin 
with,  than  a  cigarette. 

But  to  go  back  to  the  most  popular  mania, 
there  will,  of  course,  be  people  who  flirt  out- 
rageously on  every  long  voyage  because  it's  "the 
thing"  to  do.  They  make  hopeless  fools  of  them- 
selves, but  that  they  don't  realise  ;  just  as  many  of 
our  boys  and  young  men  behave  like  blackguards 
and  ruin  their  families  for  no  other  reason  in  the 
beginning  than  that  it  is  expected  of  them — it  is 
"the  thing"  to  do. 

They  have  heard  from  their  babyhood  those  two 
nauseous  sentences,  "Boys  will  be  boys"  and 
"Young  men  will  sow  their  wild  oats,"  and  they 
want  to  show  their  true  manliness,  knowing  that 
whatever  they  do  will  be  condoned  by  a  more 
than  forgiving  public  opinion,  which  forgets  that 
what  it  expects,  it  gets. 

In  Colombo  we  stayed  just  outside  the  town  at 
a  cousin's  bungalow,  in,  I  think,  the  most  beauti- 


6  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

ful  tropical  garden  I  have  ever  seen.  It  was 
a  perfect  night,  and  strolling  about  under  the 
palms  in  the  moonlight  was  more  than  refreshing 
after  the  hot,  long  voyage  ;  but  the  next  day  the 
coaling  was  over,  and  we  had  to  go  on  to  Singa- 
pore, where  we  found  there  was  no  boat  on  to 
Borneo  for  nearly  three  weeks,  so  after  a  day  or 
two  we  went  to  stay  with  some  friends  in  Johore, 
which  is  about  ten  miles  off  on  the  mainland  of 
Asia. 

Except  for  some  beautiful  botanical  gardens,  we 
didn't  find  Singapore  at  all  interesting.  The  food 
at  the  hotels  is  good,  but  the  arrangements,  unless 
they  have  been  altered,  are  very  primitive. 

Each  bedroom  has  a  bathroom  leading  out  of 
it,  which  also  opens  out  of  doors,  so  that  the 
Chinese  water-carriers  can  keep  you  well  sup- 
plied. The  tops  of  the  doors  are  made  like 
Venetian  blinds,  with  no  means  of  fastening  them 
even  on  the  inside,  so  that  the  Chinaman  can  just 
flip  them  up  and  look  through  as  he  passes  with- 
out the  trouble  of  coming  in.  I  am  glad  he 
should  be  saved  trouble,  but  a  little  consideration 
for  our  feelings  would  be  convenient,  as  to  be 
looked  at  by  Chinamen  while  bathing  is  a  form  of 
amusement  which  does  not  appeal  to  me. 

We  went  to  Johore  in  rikshas,  each  drawn  by 


EN  ROUTE  TO    BORNEO  7 

one  man,  who  trotted  up  and  down  hill  as  if  he 
had  nothing  behind  him.  Dick  is  nearly  six  feet 
three  inches,  and  proportionately  heavy,  but  they 
only  stopped  once  the  whole  ten  miles  !  We  then 
had  a  short  sea-crossing  to  get  over  to  the  main- 
land. 

The  water  swarmed  with  crocodiles  ;  the  tops  of 
their  heads  look  like  floating  logs  lying  on  the 
water.  Johore  is  a  lovely  place,  and  we  had  a 
very  nice  time  there,  and  were  most  lavishly 
entertained  by  everyone,  including  the  old  Sultan, 
who  came  to  have  tea  with  us,  and  invited  us  to 
come  up  to  his  palaces  to  see  his  jewellery.  It 
was  very  magnificent,  and  worth  an  enormous 
sum  of  money,  but  the  one  idea  conveyed  by  the 
palace  we  went  over  was  that  of  space  and  empti- 
ness— a  magnificent  shell,  but  no  kernel. 

No  man  was  allowed  into  the  harem,  and  it  was 
very  shy  work  for  a  lady,  as  the  Sultan's  wives  all 
behaved  like  ill-mannered,  giggling  schoolgirls, 
except  the  second  one,  an  Armenian,  who  had 
evidently  been  destined  for  a  much  nobler  lot, 
poor  thing  !  When  the  Sultan  was  away  in  Eng- 
land for  some  months  she  broke  out  of  bounds, 
and  drove  about  unveiled  as  an  ordinary  European 
lady,  but  she  was  reduced  to  the  ranks  again 
and  shut  up  directly  he  got  back  from  his  travels. 


8  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

There  is  plenty  of  big-game  shooting  at  Johore, 
as  it  abounds  with  some  of  the  finest  tigers  in  the 
world.  There  was  a  nasty  man-eater  about  when 
we  were  there,  and  one  day,  walking  with  our 
host  round  his  tea-garden,  when  we  were  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  house,  close  to  thick  jungle, 
I  shall  never  forget  his  turning  round  quietly  and 
saying,  "  It  was  here  that  tiger  was  last  seen  ;  it 
came  out  to  our  right  a  few  days  ago,"  pointing 
to  a  spot  a  few  yards  away.  I  looked  at  him 
prepared  to  laugh,  but  he  wasn't  joking. 

It  is  most  interesting  to  be  walking  on  the  spoor 
of  a  man-eating  tiger,  particularly  when  you  are 
only  armed  with  a  walking-stick,  and  there  is 
every  chance  of  the  beast,  who  had  already  taken 
several  people,  having  digested  his  last  meal  and 
taking  you  too.  But  somehow  my  calves  were 
very  stiff  and  my  back  very  self-conscious,  and 
I  was  very  thankful  to  get  back  to  the  house 
again. 

The  idea  of  a  tiger  slinking  after  you  adds 
interest  to  your  walk  certainly,  but  not  of  a  kind 
I  am  anxious  to  experience  again  without  a  rifle. 


CHAPTER   II 
FIRST   IMPRESSIONS    OF    BORNEO 


w 


E  arrived  in  Borneo  at  last,  after  spending 
several  days  on  a  small  steamer  stinking 
with  Chinese  cargo  and  swarming  with  cock- 
roaches. Woe  betide  anyone  who  left  brushes 
or  any  other  equally  uneatable  things  about ;  the 
bristles  all  disappeared,  and  the  cockroaches  grew 
fatter  day  by  day. 

The  deck  was  the  only  bearable  place.  We 
lived  up  there  day  and  night,  only  using  our 
cabins  for  a  few  minutes  to  dress — and  those  few 
minutes  were  far  too  long.  We  had  nothing  to 
see  but  occasional  shoals  of  porpoises,  which 
tumbled  along  by  the  side  of  our  boat.  In  the 
Malay  Archipelago  these  shoals  are  sometimes 
so  large  that  they  take  several  hours  to  steam 
through.  We  had  a  bad  passage,  but  the  captain 
did  everything  he  could  for  us,  no  one  could  have 
been  kinder. 

We  slept  on  the  skylight,  and  when  it  was  very 
9 


lo  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

rough  he  roped  me  to  the  mast  to  prevent  my 
falling  about.  Everyone  tied  up  the  long  chairs 
on  which  they  slept  somehow,  but  one  very  rough 
night  an  unfortunate  Dutchman,  in  an  unwise 
moment,  left  his  loose,  and  a  bigger  wave  than 
usual  struck  the  boat  and  over  he  went,  and 
everything  he  possessed  was  scattered  in  different 
directions.  He  stalked  his  belongings — standing, 
crouching  and  creeping,  but  all  equally  fruitlessly ; 
as  soon  as  he  got  near  anything  off  it  plunged 
somewhere  else.  Poor  man,  he  was  very  much  to 
be  pitied,  but  it  was  a  good  thing  he  hadn't  time 
to  look  up,  as  some  of  the  other  passengers  were 
nearly  crying  with  laughter.  A  sailor  eventually 
came  to  his  assistance,  and  at  last  we  went  to 
sleep ;  but  we  woke  up  later  to  find  an  awful 
hubbub  going  on.  The  screw  had  gone  wrong 
in  the  middle  of  a  storm,  and  the  sailors  were 
rushing  backwards  and  forwards  and  the  captain 
roaring  orders  and  emphasising  them  with  most 
explicit  language ;  but  fortunately  the  screw 
righted  itself  before  very  long,  and  everything 
and  everyone  gradually  calmed  down,  but  we 
were  none  the  less  glad  to  arrive  at  Labuan,  our 
first  port  of  call. 

The  wharf  and  native  town  are  not  attractive, 
but  the  island  itself  is  lovely,  an  oasis  of  green. 


FIRST   IMPRESSIONS   OF   BORNEO         ii 

palms  of  every  kind,  and  glorious  trees,  standing 
out  in  all  their  grace  against  a  deep  blue  sky,  and 
under  them,  on  every  side  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  a  luxuriant  carpet  of  grass,  even  the  roads 
being  just  glades  of  springy  turf,  perfect  for 
riding.  At  one  time  the  whole  place  was  very 
prosperous,  and  seemed  to  have  a  great  future 
before  it ;  but  that  has  not  been  realised,  though 
it  is  still  most  important  to  us  as  a  valuable  coaling 
and  telegraph  station.  Since  we  had  a  telegraph 
station  at  Labuan  we  are  absolutely  independent 
of  lines  going  across  foreign  countries  which 
might  in  case  of  war  be  cut. 

The  Government  is  administered  by  a  Resident 
belonging  to  the  British  North  Borneo  Company, 
who  entertained  us  at  Government  House,  a  very 
picturesque  bungalow  standing  in  large  shady 
grounds. 

We  only  stayed  a  few  hours  that  time,  but 
afterwards  some  great  friends  of  ours  lived  there, 
and  I  went  to  stay  with  them,  and  had  the  in- 
teresting but  very  funny  experience  of  acting  as 
Malay  interpreter  in  getting  up  a  law  case. 

My  host  was  a  very  clever  pleader,  much  sought 
after  by  the  Indians  and  Chinese,  but  he  talked 
no  Malay,  and  his  client  in  this  particular  case 
was  a  Hindoo  who  could  talk  no  English.     There 


12  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

was  no  interpreter  available,  so  I  had  to  fill  the 
gap  ;  and  I  had  no  easy  work,  as  I  only  knew 
Malay,  and  my  man  would  keep  on  running  off 
into  Hindustani,  which  was  natural  as  it  was  his 
native  language,  but  most  muddling  to  his  in- 
terpreter. 

Two  days  afterwards  we  reached  Kudat,  having 
passed  Kinabalu,  the  highest  mountain  in  Borneo, 
on  our  way.  It  is  nearly  14,000  feet  high,  and 
intensely  interesting  to  naturalists  of  all  kinds  ; 
its  vegetation  alone  ranges  from  palms  and  orchids 
at  the  base  to  heather  and  Scotch  firs  near  the 
summit.  I  don't  think  Dick  will  ever  be  quite 
happy  till  he  has  been  up  it ;  he  was  in  Borneo 
for  nearly  six  years  but  never  managed  it,  as  the 
natives  were  not  safe,  so  the  Governor  wouldn't 
(I  am  thankful  to  say)  let  anyone  attempt  it. 

The  natives  look  upon  it  with  great  wonder 
and  awe,  as  something  which  is  capable  of  exer- 
cising a  powerful  influence  over  their  lives  and  as 
a  place  for  departed  spirits.  When  a  man  is  dying 
they  talk  of  him  as  ascending  Kinabalu,  and  in 
time  of  drought  they  had  a  most  awful  custom 
which  we  have,  of  course,  put  a  stop  to.  It  was 
called  Sumunguping.  When  they  began  to  be 
afraid  that  the  crops  would  fail  they  felt  it  was 
absolutely  necessary  to  have  a  direct  messenger  to 


FIRST   IMPRESSIONS    OF   BORNEO         13 

the  other  world  in  order  that  their  case  should  be 
put  clearly  before  the  spirits  who  govern  the  rain. 
A  chief,  therefore,  took  one  of  his  slaves,  bound 
him  firmly  to  a  post,  and  then  everyone  approached 
armed  with  spears,  and  at  every  thrust  gave  him 
some  special  message  to  their  spirit  relations  on 
Kinabalu  ! 

Kudat  lies  at  the  head  of  a  deep  bay,  which 
forms  a  splendid  natural  harbour  for  ships.  It  is 
a  picturesque  and  flourishing  little  place,  as  the 
jungle  round  abounds  in  valuable  timber,  and 
there  are  good  tobacco  and  coffee  estates  quite 
near.  The  country  generally  is  very  fertile,  and 
game  is  abundant. 

We  were  entertained  by  Dr.  Chapman,  a  very 
nice  friend  of  Dick's.  He  was  out  shooting  not 
long  afterwards  with  two  men  who  had  come 
down  from  Hong  Kong  on  leave.  They  were 
going  up  the  river  in  a  small  boat,  and  Dr. 
Chapman  had  rested  his  gun  at  full  cock  in  front 
of  him,  when  he  suddenly  saw  a  beast,  and  with- 
out thinking  seized  hold  of  the  barrel  and  drew  it 
quickly  towards  him. 

It  caught  against  something  and  went  off, 
emptying  the  full  charge  into  his  side.  He  was 
quite  collected,  explained  to  his  companions  how 
to  plug  the  wound,  and  then  told  them  quietly 


14  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

that  nothing  could  save  him,  and  asked  them  to 
write  down,  as  quickly  as  possible,  all  directions 
about  his  things  and  messages  for  his  people  at 
home,  and  an  hour  or  two  after  the  shot  went  off 
died  pluckily,  without  having  given  a  single 
thought  to  his  own  pain  and  exhaustion. 

Kudat  is  only  130  miles  from  Sandakan,  but 
the  journey  took  us  a  long  time,  as  it  is  a 
dangerous  passage  full  of  coral  reefs  and  sub- 
merged islands,  and  we  went  very  slowly.  At 
last,  however,  we  arrived  in  Sandakan  Bay,  one 
of  the  finest  harbours  in  the  world,  about  seven- 
teen miles  long,  and  the  entrance  to  it  is  very 
beautiful,  with  Bahalla  on  the  right  ;  its  fine  red 
sandstone  cliffs  backed  with  forest-clad  hills  rising 
to  a  height  of  about  800  feet. 

Some  time  before  we  got  abreast  of  the  regular 
town,  with  its  wharf  and  many  of  its  shops  and 
houses  built  in  piles  over  the  water,  we  saw  signs 
of  human  habitations ;  little  villages,  with  their 
prawn  nets  and  fishing-stakes  and  little  jetties, 
right  down  on  the  shore,  or  hidden  away  in  the 
jungle  and  only  betraying  themselves  by  smoke 
and  groups  of  cocoanut  palms. 

Sandakan  itself  straggles  up  a  steep  wooded 
hill,  the  Chinese  and  native  town  at  the  base  ; 
a  little  higher  up  the  public  buildings.  Govern- 


FIRST    IMPRESSIONS   OF   BORNEO         15 

merit  offices,  etc.,  and  above  that,  separated  as  far 
as  possible  from  each  other  (a  very  sensible  plan), 
the  bungalows  belonging  to  all  the  different 
officials.  Ours  was  in  a  splendid  position  at  the 
top  of  a  long  steep  hill  looking  right  out  over  the 
bay.  It  was  built  of  wood  with  a  palm-leaf  thatch 
on  piles  about  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  high.  Our 
chickens  and  monkeys  lived  under  us.  The  whole 
place,  physically  and  morally,  was  an  extra- 
ordinary contrast  to  anything  of  which  I  had  ever 
known  or  heard.  I  don't  think  we  could  have 
been  a  much  funnier  mixture  of  nationalities,  or 
that  any  other  place  in  the  world  of  the  same  size 
could  have  contained  more  varied  types,  both  of 
mind  and  character  ;  but  though  we  only  made  a 
few  very  great  friends,  two  of  whom  are  no  longer 
living,  I  never  had  anything  but  the  utmost  kind- 
ness from  everyone  in  the  place,  with  one  ex- 
ception— a  lady,  who  was  evidently  afraid  of  my 
being  spoilt. 

If  I  am,  I  can  only  say  she  is  absolutely  clear 
of  any  suspicion  of  having  aided  in  the  process  ! 

One  Governor  who  was  out  there  said  it  was  no 
place  for  ladies.  I  can't  agree  with  him,  because 
every  lady  by  her  mere  presence  ought  to  help  to 
keep  up  the  standard  of  a  place ;  but  it  was 
certainly  no  place  for  boys.     We  had  among  us 


i6  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

the  riff-raff  of  the  world,  and  boys  sent  out  with- 
out any  religion  or  reverence  for  anything  above 
themselves,  brought  up  by  ''broad-minded" 
parents  who  wished  to  leave  them  absolutely  free, 
had  nothing  to  fall  back  on,  and  became  ready 
disciples  to  any  and  every  blackguard  who 
flattered  their  vanity.  Two  of  these  free  boys 
had  to  leave  the  country  while  we  were  there  in 
deep  disgrace  ;  they  had  drunk  deeply  of  the  cup 
of  Bornean  morals,  but  they  had  forgotten  one  of 
its  most  important  ingredients  :  Be  as  great  a 
villain  as  you  like,  only  don't  be  found  out. 

One  man  who  was  dining  with  us  told  me  that 
he  had  been  manager  of  some  estate  on  one  of 
the  other  East  Indian  Islands,  and  when  he  was 
sent  the  money  to  pay  the  coolies  he  managed  to 
get  right  away  with  the  whole  lot ;  and  he  evi- 
dently thought  he  had  done  a  very  clever  thing, 
and  was  quite  hurt  when  I  said  I  didn't  under- 
stand, but  that  it  sounded  to  me  very  dishonest. 

But  this  is  only  a  glimpse  behind  the  scenes  ; 
outwardly  we  were  very  nice,  and  like  all  other 
European  communities  in  the  Far  East,  where  it 
is  an  understood  thing  that  only  the  men  should 
work  and  the  ladies  sleep  and  amuse  themselves. 

It  was  too  hot  for  any  mental  exertion  to  be 
good    for  us,   though  the  energy  we  showed   in 


THE    HOSPITAL,    SANDAKAU 


>J-^   K. 


hi.''4MS  J'SMS^^^  ■  * 


— «»~»«!Wr 


OUR    HOUSE-BOAT    IN    THE    INTERIOR,   WITH    DYAK    POLICE 
BOATMEN 


FIRST   IMPRESSIONS   OF   BORNEO         17 

dancing,  tennis,  and  riding  might  have  made 
some  people  a  little  sceptical  as  to  whether  our 
health  was  really  in  such  a  precarious  condition 
as  it  was  etiquette  to  think. 

Our  rides  had  rather  a  sameness  about  them,  as 
we  only  had  two  roads,  and  neither  of  them  went 
very  far  ;  but  we  had  quite  a  good  racecourse  and 
race  meetings  twice  a  year,  which  were  a  great 
excitement  to  us  all. 

Our  life  was  also  varied  from  time  to  time  by 
ships  calling  in,  and  Government  House  used  to 
entertain  us  and  them  most  royally  ;  so  that 
altogether  we  had  a  very  nice  time,  and  when  we 
wanted  a  change  we  used  to  get  a  sailing  yacht  or 
steam  launch  lent  us,  and  go  off  up  some  river 
or  to  some  island  not  too  far  away.  The  jungle 
round  teemed  with  interest,  as  it  was  full  of  valu- 
able woods,  and  birds  and  beasts  and  butterflies 
of  every  description. 

An  important  timber  trade  is  carried  on  between 
Borneo  and  China,  as  the  Chinese  prize  above  all 
other  woods  the  Bornean  iron-wood  or  billian,  as 
it  is  always  called — a  heavy,  hard  wood,  dark 
sandy  brown  in  colour,  and  turning  with  exposure 
absolutely  black. 

It  is  quite  invaluable,  as  it  seems  indestructible 

whether  used  under  water  or  on  land.     It  never 
c 


i8  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

warps  or  splits,  resisting  even  the  ravages  of 
white  ants,  which  is  saying  a  great  deal,  as  they 
are  the  most  awful  pests.  One  lady,  a  friend  of 
ours,  put  away  a  tin-lined  case  of  new  house-linen 
for  future  use,  and  when  she  came  to  it  white  ants 
had  found  a  flaw  in  the  tin,  and  had  eaten  their 
way  right  through  the  whole  box  from  bottom  to 
top.     Every  single  thing  was  spoilt. 

There  are  other  valuable  woods  ;  but  I  know 
nothing  of  them,  except  the  ruwangs — large 
forest-trees,  with  a  particularly  sweet  smelling, 
tough  yellow  wood,  much  used  by  the  natives  for 
making  their  gobongs  or  dug-out  canoes  ;  and, 
as  far  as  beauty  goes,  nothing  can  well  beat  the 
lovely  Casuarinas  or  mist  trees,  as  the  Malays 
appropriately  call  them. 

Their  language  is  both  poetical  and  expressive  : 
the  literal  translation  of  the  Malay  for  policeman, 
for  instance,  is  ''all  eyes,"  and  for  the  sun  "the 
eye  of  the  day." 

We  didn't  find  many  flowers  ;  the  orchid  world 
was  there,  but  far  above  our  heads,  though  we 
sometimes  came  upon  treasures  of  beauty  in  a 
fallen  tree.  But  they  were  few  and  far  between. 
There  were  lovely  begonias  of  every  hue  and 
colour  in  some  places,  and  pitcher  plants  of  all 
sizes  and  varieties  abounded  everywhere,  but  they 


FIRST   IMPRESSIONS   OF   BORNEO         19 

were  the  only  common  flower.  When  they  first 
open  they  are  full  of  the  purest  fresh  water,  but 
this  soon  becomes  poisonous,  and  then  beetles, 
snails,  crabs,  and  even  birds  are  found  inside 
them,  which,  instead  of  the  refreshing  drink  they 
expected,  have  found  a  watery  grave. 

There  was  practically  no  game,  big  or  small, 
close  to  Sandakan  ;  for  that  we  had  to  make  more 
or  less  of  an  expedition  ;  but  we  had  plenty  of 
snakes  we  could  easily  have  done  without.  The 
worst  were  cobras  and  hamadryads,  those  fiercest 
of  all  snakes,  going  out  of  their  way  at  times  to 
follow  and  attack  people  ;  and  we  had  the  most 
enormous  pythons,  some  of  them  over  thirty  feet 
long.  We  went  to  see  one  which  was  caught 
quite  easily  just  after  it  had  eaten  a  whole  deer. 
Digestion  was  going  on,  so  it  was  in  a  comatose 
condition  and  disinclined  to  exert  itself.  I  am  not 
surprised  ;  a  whole  deer  must  be  a  little  trying  to 
anyone's  digestion,  even  a  python's.  They  are 
always  fairly  harmless  so  long  as  you  don't  brush 
against  them  or  step  on  them  by  mistake.  I  have 
been  horribly  near  once  or  twice  ;  but  the  brute 
coils  itself  round  its  victims  with  such  rapidity 
that  they  have  no  time  to  suffer,  which  is  a  com- 
forting thought.  The  jungle  is  also  alive  with 
brilliant-coloured  lizards.     The  trunks  of  the  trees 


20  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

they  are  specially  fond  of.  Most  of  them  are  quite 
small  ;  but  the  monitor  lizard  is  about  seven  feet 
long — a  harmless  but  very  ugly  brute.  The  na- 
tives eat  them  ;  but  they  can't  be  very  wholesome, 
as  one  we  saw  was  revelling  in  a  dinner  of  high 
crocodile. 


CHAPTER   III 
IN   AND   AROUND   SANDAKAN 

OUR  servants  were  either  Malays,  Sulus,  or 
Chinamen.  They  were  all  liars.  There  is 
a  saying  among  them  that  if  you  want  to  make  a 
man  tell  the  truth  you  must  first  make  him  drunk; 
and  I  certainly  can  answer  for  it  that  sober  it 
would  be  absolutely  useless  even  to  try ;  but 
Chinamen  are  much  the  best  servants,  only  they 
don't  like  jungle  work,  and  are  generally  no  good 
at  it ;  so  we  couldn't  always  have  them,  as  we 
were  so  constantly  away.  One  little  Chinaman, 
however,  always  stuck  to  us,  in  the  jungle  and  out 
of  it.  He  had  nothing  to  recommend  him.  He 
was  ludicrously  ugly  and  dirty,  and  we  gave  him 
notice  on  an  average  once  a  month  ;  but  he  never 
went,  and  never  meant  to.  He  knew  Malay  well, 
and  used  to  come  and  translate  for  me  when  we 
had  a  cook  who  could  only  talk  Chinese.  Malay, 
fortunately,  is  as  easy  as  Hindustani,  and  you 
pick  it  up  at  once. 

21 


22  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

The  cook  came  every  morning  to  tell  me  how 
much  he  had  spent  at  the  market,  and  Ah  Sing 
used  to  hold  the  door  so  that  the  cook  couldn't 
see,  and  repeat  in  a  cheery  tone  whatever  he  said, 
and  then  after  every  item  go  through  extraordi- 
nary gymnastics  and  hideous  faces  to  show  me 
what  a  crushing  liar  the  cook  was.  It  was  very 
ludicrous  to  watch  ;  and  it  was  very  strange  how 
all  the  prices  went  up  when  Ah  Sing  did  the 
marketing  himself  later  ! 

The  market  was  a  great  institution,  and  very 
picturesque  with  its  shining  silver  piles  of  fish 
and  its  baskets  of  vegetables  and  fruit.  Fish  was 
our  staple  food,  but  they  were  nearly  all  full  of 
bones,  and  far  nicer  to  look  at  than  to  eat. 

The  prawns  were  always  good,  and  made  first- 
rate  curries.  For  two  or  three  cents  a  day  we 
could  get  fresh  curry — a  very  different  thing  from 
our  dry  curries  at  home. 

The  vegetables,  considering  we  were  in  the 
tropics,  were  wonderful,  owing  to  the  untiring 
energy  and  industry  of  the  Hakka  Chinese.  The 
results  they  get  from  the  barrenest,  most  unfertile 
little  plots  of  rock  land  are  quite  extraordinary — 
lettuces,  spring  onions,  marrows,  cucumbers, 
garden  eggs,  beans,  sweet  potatoes,  and  various 
other  things  all  flourish  under  their  care. 


IN   AND   AROUND   SANDAKAN  23 

Fruit  is  a  good  deal  imported  ;  but  we  could 
nearly  always  get  pineapples,  bananas,  and  pap- 
yas,  and  from  time  to  time  various  other  fruits, 
including  mangoes,  mangosteens,  pumeloes, 
oranges,  and  durians,  the  best  fruit  in  the  world 
to  those  who  like  them.  I  can't  eat  them  without 
feeling  greedy,  and  there  were  three  other  people 
in  Sandakan  who  felt  the  same,  and  we  almost 
sent  express  messengers  to  each  other  when  a 
durian  boat  came  in.  But  it  is  either  love  or  hate; 
there  can  be  no  medium,  as  they  have  one  great 
drawback.  They  smell  so  awful  that  if  you  come  in 
at  one  end  of  a  street  and  there  are  durians  at  the 
other,  you  get  out  of  it  as  quickly  as  possible,  as 
3rou  feel  quite  certain  the  drains  have  all  gone 
hopelessly  wrong.  Nothing  can  exaggerate  the 
smell.  Once  or  twice,  when  Dick  felt  in  a  speci- 
ally good  temper  with  me,  he  sent  me  up  some 
durians  early  in  the  morning,  directly  he  went  to 
his  office;  but  though  I  ate  them  up  at  once  and 
he  didn't  come  back  till  night,  he  could  still  tell 
there  had  been  durians  in  the  house  when  he  got 
back  again.  The  only  excuse  that  can  possibly  be 
made  for  those  of  us  who  liked  them  is  that  the 
moment  you  taste  them  you  smell  nothing  more  ; 
so  that  if  you  live  alone  there  is  nothing  selfish  in 
eating  them.     But  the  natives  are  so  fond  of  them 


24  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

they  give  you  little  chance,  as  a  very  short  time 
after  a  boat  comes  in  every  durian  is  gone.  They 
are  a  big  fruit,  nearly  as  large  as  your  head,  w^ith 
so  hard  a  covering  that  it  has  to  be  opened  with 
a  hatchet,  and  right  inside  you  find  a  large  ball  of 
huge  seeds,  each  covered  with  a  most  excellent 
acid  cream,  every  seed  with  its  creamy  covering 
making  a  separate  division  something  like  the  pig 
of  an  orange. 

But  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  market  is 
the  people. 

It  gives  one  a  splendid  chance  of  comparing  the 
different  races.  The  Sulus,  with  their  little  short 
coats  and  bright  green  or  scarlet  trousers,  very 
tight  at  the  ankle,  and  sashes  and  brilliant  head 
handkerchiefs,  very  pleased  with  themselves  for 
having  changed  the  Spanish  rule  of  their  own 
country  for  an  English  one. 

The  Spaniards  are  very  bad  colonists,  cruel 
masters,  who  hate  and  are  hated  by  the  natives 
over  whom  they  rule.  I  n  one  or  two  of  the  Spanish 
islands  near  we  could  walk  anywhere  in  perfect 
safety,  but  no  Spaniard  dared  move  outside  the 
walled  town  in  which  they  all  lived  without  a  guard 
of  soldiers  ;  and  I  am  not  surprised,  they  were  such 
brutes.  One  of  our  friends  was  there  one  day  and 
found  the  Governor  had  strung  up  his  cook  for 


IN   AND   AROUND   SANDAKAN  25 

hours  in  the  most  painful  position  because  he 
hadn't  made  the  curry  exactly  to  his  taste. 

Then  there  are  the  Bajows,  a  dark-skinned,  wild 
sea-gipsy  race  roving  from  place  to  place — 
pirates  until  the  English  arrived,  and  the  terror  of 
the  whole  coast,  but  now  living  peaceable,  quiet 
lives,  looking  upon  the  sea  and  its  products  as 
their  own  and  mixing  very  little  with  other  races. 

The  sea  abounds  in  treasures,  as  besides  all  kinds 
of  fish  which  the  Bajows  had  been  busy  catching 
all  night,  and  for  which  they  had  had  hard  work 
to  get  a  proper  price  from  the  Chinese  buyers, 
sponges  of  a  very  good  quality  are  found  a  few 
miles  away,  and  oysters  are  numerous  on  the  rocks 
all  along  the  coast.  They  were  nearly  all  sent  up 
to  China,  where  I  hope  they  were  enjoyed,  but 
Europeans  used  to  be  dreadfully  ill  after  them  ! 

Other  treasures,  such  as  shark  fins  and  seaweed, 
also  found  a  ready  sale  in  China. 

You  constantly  come  upon  the  Bajow  villages  in 
out-of-the-way  places  where  you  little  expect  to  find 
any  sign  of  human  life.  Far  away  from  every- 
where, a  collection  of  these  little  huts  appears  built 
on  piles  right  out  over  the  water,  and  it  is  a  very 
pretty  sight  to  see  their  fleets  of  small  outriggered 
boats  with  huge  brilliant-coloured  sails  skimming 
past  you  ;  their  sails  were  also  occasionally  made 


26  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

out  of  split  bamboos,  but  I  think  they  have  given 
that  up  now. 

The  Dyaks,  too,  who,  with  the  Sikhs,  form  the 
fighting  force  of  the  country,  are  a  splendid  race, 
strong  and  well  made,  with  bright  intelligent  faces 
and  scantily  clothed  limbs,  which  show  off  to  ad- 
vantage the  perfect  grace  of  every  movement,  a 
grace  of  which  only  a  well-bred  savage  is  capable. 
Nature  has  given  them  the  most  beautiful  teeth, 
but  art,  among  the  richer  ones,  has  turned  them 
into  gold,  which  completely  spoils  their  personal 
appearance.  Dyaks  make  splendid  soldiers  and 
the  best  of  friends,  as  they  are  faithful  and  trust- 
worthy, but  once  their  enemy  I  would  rather  not 
meet  them.  Held  in  with  an  iron  hand  they  are 
very  valuable,  but  the  sight  of  blood  intoxicates 
them,  and  when  they  are  let  go  they  are  worse 
than  wild  beasts. 

Their  one  weapon  is  a  long,  sheathed  knife,  the 
handle  of  which  is  often  most  beautifully  carved, 
and  then  decorated  with  the  hair  of  their  victims. 
They  show  these  scalps  with  the  greatest  pride, 
especially  to  the  girls  they  hope  to  make  their 
wives,  as,  unless  they  have  some  such  proof  of 
their  valour,  the  chances  are  that  they  are  uncere- 
moniously refused  ;  and  just  as  looking  at  some 
fox's  brush  reminds  us  of  a  specially  good  day's 


IN   AND   AROUND   SANDAKAN  27 

hunting,  and  we  run  with  pleasure  over  the 
different  incidents  of  the  day,  they,  looking  at 
their  scalps,  recall  with  joy  every  detail  of  their 
fighting,  and  in  the  case  of  women,  butchery,  so 
thrilling  while  it  lasted,  but  so  far  too  quickly 
over.  They  feel  no  remorse,  only  longing  for 
another  opportunity  of  so  distinguishing  them- 
selves. 

Many  other  nationalities  were  also  represented 
in  the  market — Sikhs,  Japanese,  and  several  races 
of  Chinese — all  busily  engaged  in  laying  in  their 
stores  for  the  day. 

The  Chinese  are  divided  among  themselves  into 
innumerable  different  clans,  according  to  the 
different  trades  they  follow,  which  are  handed 
down  from  father  to  son.  If  the  father  is  a  shoe- 
maker the  son  must  be,  or  if  the  father  is  a  silver- 
smith the  son  must  be  the  same,  and  so  on.  Your 
servants  even  don't  belong  to  the  same  class  ;  your 
cook  belongs  to  one  clan,  your  "  boy  "  to  another, 
your  water-carrier  to  another,  and  your  hammock- 
bearers  to  yet  another,  and  their  rank  in  society  is 
all  according  to  the  class  to  which  they  belong.  It 
is  never  etiquette  to  touch  each  other's  work,  and 
you  can't  make  them  break  through  these  extra- 
ordinary barriers  however  great  the  need.  I  was 
quite  desperate  one  day.     I  went  to  fetch  a  little  ill 


28  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

girl  of  four  from  her  mother,  who  was  also  very  ill, 
and  no  hammock-bearers  were  to  be  found  any- 
where ;  so  I  tried  to  get  two  boys  who  were  standing 
there  doing  nothing  to  carry  her  for  me,  but  they 
stared  blankly,  pretending  not  to  understand,  and 
wouldn't  lift  a  finger  to  help,  though  they  knew  it 
was  an  urgent  case. 

So  immovable  are  the  dividing  lines,  and  so 
varied  the  dialects,  that  you  may  often  find  China- 
men who  can't  understand  one  another  and  don't 
wish  to. 

No  tobacco  and  not  many  other  crops  are  grown 
close  to  Sandakan,  except  on  the  Byte  estate,  the 
proprietors  of  which  are  most  enterprising  and 
grow  all  kinds  of  things  most  successfully.  Cocoa- 
nuts  are  very  easy  to  grow,  but  do  not  yield  large 
enough  crops  to  pay  unless  they  are  planted  so 
close  to  the  sea  that  there  is  no  expense  of  transit ; 
and  cotton  does  well  on  some  hills  directly  after 
virgin  jungle  has  been  cleared,  though  the  ground 
on  the  whole  is  too  clayey  for  it.  Coffee  and 
sugar  and  all  fibre-producing  plants,  including 
many  different  hemps,  grew  luxuriously  on  the 
Byte  estate,  and  only  those  with  a  very  short 
fibre  are  not  worth  cultivating.  Manilla  hemp 
produces  fibre  worth  up  to  £40  a  ton,  and  from 
the  fibre  of  the   Ijuk  palm  the   natives  make  an 


IN   AND   AROUND   SANDAKAN  29 

extraordinarily  strong  rope  which  the  Chinese  use 
for  the  cables  and  rigging  of  their  junks,  and  also 
for  their  deep-sea  fishing  lines,  on  account  of  its 
durability  and  power  of  resisting  the  action  of  salt 
and  fresh  water.  Gambier  is  another  most  satis- 
factory product,  as  it  wants  little  capital,  and  is  very 
important  commercially,  as  besides  being  a  valu- 
able medicine,  it  is  much  used  in  dyeing  and 
tanning.  Rattans  too  grow  splendidly,  but  in  one 
of  the  places  where  they  would  do  best,  elephants 
absolutely  refuse  to  let  them  grow.  We  went  with 
a  friend  of  ours  one  day  to  look  after  some  young 
rattans  he  had  just  started,  but  the  elephants, 
unfortunately,  had  been  there  before  us  and  had 
trampled  down  the  whole  plantation  ;  their  hoof 
marks  in  their  rage  had  gone  deep  into  the  ground, 
and  not  one  inch  had  escaped.  I  never  saw  any- 
thing more  deliberate  ;  nothing  round  was  touched, 
but  they  knew  the  beds  were  the  work  of  man 
and  they  wouldn't  have  them,  and  they  didn't. 
It  was  absolutely  useless  ever  planting  there  again. 
We  never  got  an  elephant,  which  was  sad,  as  they 
sometimes  had  splendid  tusks  nearly  five  feet  long, 
much  finer  than  the  Malay  Peninsular  or  Siamese 
ones,  and  occasionally  they  had  spiral  tusks  which, 
I  believe,  are  found  in  no  other  country,  and  look 
like  throwing  back  to  mammoth  times. 


CHAPTER    IV 
TO   THE    BIRDS'  NESTS   CAVES 

ONE  of  our  most  interesting  trips  was  to  the 
Gomanton  edible  birds'  nests  caves.  The 
nests  are  held  in  the  highest  value  and  considered 
great  luxuries  by  the  Chinese,  who  give  enormous 
prices  for  them.  Many  people  had  seen  the  nests, 
but  very  few  had  ever  penetrated  as  far  as  the  caves 
themselves,  and  those  people  who  had  done  so 
had  had  such  hardships  to  encounter  on  their  way, 
that  we  met  with  no  encouragement  when  a  party 
of  seven  of  us,  four  men  and  three  ladies,  decided 
to  try  our  luck. 

The  morning  we  started  was  pouring  wet,  but, 
nothing  daunted,  we  all  met  on  the  wharf  at  about 
11.30,  and  started  our  journey  across  the  bay  in  a 
steam  launch. 

The  Sapagay,  the  river  we  were  making  for,  was 
only  about  eleven  miles  away,  and  in  an  ordinary 
case,  shortly  after  passing  the  mouth,  we  should 
have   taken  to  our  boats,   but  the  water  was  so 

30 


TO   THE    BIRDS'  NESTS    CAVES  31 

swollen  with  the  rains  that  we  didn't  have  to  leave 
the  launch  till  about  5  p.m. 

Another  day,  when  we  were  crossing  the  bay, 
we  were  going  away  for  some  little  time,  and  we 
had  our  house-boat  with  our  boys  and  all  our 
worldly  goods  in  tow,  when  a  storm  came  on,  and 
over  the  whole  boat  went,  our  boys  and  all  our 
belongings  tossing  about  on  the  water  in  hopeless 
confusion. 

I  rushed  at  my  kodak  and  tried  to  get  a  photo- 
graph, but  it  wasn't  a  success,  which  can  perhaps 
hardly  be  wondered  at,  as  our  launch  was  pitching 
up  and  down,  and  the  storm  was  raging,  and  the 
light  was  decidedly  bad.  We  lost  a  great  deal, 
including  Dick's  gun.  Mine  was  saved  almost 
miraculously,  but  we  had  to  go  straight  back  to 
Sandakan,  as  our  food  vv^as  all  gone  and  we  hadn't 
a  dry  rag  left  to  sleep  in.  This  time  we  fared 
much  better,  and  we  all,  including  jungle-cutters 
and  carriers  (about  thirty  boys  in  all),  stowed 
away  safely  into  our  boats  soon  after  5  p.m.  Not 
for  very  long,  however,  as  owing  to  the  flooded 
state  of  the  river  our  progress  was  very  slow,  and 
not  only  the  strong  current,  but  fallen  trees, 
through  which  we  had  to  cut  our  way,  obstructed 
our  passage  every  few  minutes  ;  so  Mr.  Allard,  the 
guiding  spirit  of  the  expedition,  decided  that  we 


32  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

were  only  wasting  time,  and  we  halted  and  tied  up 
to  the  bank — none  too  soon,  as  night  was  already 
beginning  to  fall,  which  meant  we  only  had  a  very 
few  minutes  in  which  to  pitch  our  camp  unless 
it  was  to  be  done  in  the  dark.  There  is  practically 
no  twilight  in  the  tropics.  Night  comes  down  like 
the  curtain  of  a  theatre,  but  we  soon  had  a  tent 
ready  for  us.  The  boys  disappeared  in  the  jungle 
and  quickly  brought  back  the  necessary  posts  for 
the  uprights  and  smaller  horizontal  poles  to  sup- 
port the  roof  we  had  brought  with  us.  It  was 
made  of  split  palm  leaves  sewn  together  into  mats, 
a  wonderfully  waterproof  covering,  as,  though  it 
poured  with  rain  all  night,  we  kept  perfectly  dry. 
Only  the  ladies  were  honoured  with  a  hut,  the 
men  slept  in  the  canoes.  After  dinner — a  most 
welcome  event  in  the  day,  as  we  had  had  nothing 
since  we  started  and  were  ravenously  hungry — we 
soon  retired  to  bed,  and  slept  soundly.  European 
cooks  wouldn't  believe  it  was  possible,  without  a 
fireplace  or  convenience  of  any  kind,  to  cook  and 
serve  a  dinner  of  several  courses,  and  I  never  yet 
have  been  able  to  understand  how  Eastern  cooks 
manage  it ;  you  order  dinner  and  you  get  it,  and 
you  have  no  complaints,  and  if  you  are  wise  you 
never  try  to  know  any  more  about  it.  I  can't  help 
thinking  that  if  you  saw  all  the  fingering  which 


TO   THE    BIRDS'  NESTS   CAVES  33 

must  go  on,  your  appetite,  however  good,  would 
hardly  stand  the  test. 

The  next  morning  we  were  up  and  dressed 
before  daylight,  and  after  coffee  and  fruit  we 
packed  up  and  started  off  in  our  canoes  again  ; 
but  we  were  only  in  them  for  a  short  time,  as  we 
soon  arrived  at  the  point  where  we  had  to  leave 
the  river  and  strike  off  through  the  jungle.  We 
then,  except  for  an  interval  for  lunch,  tramped 
steadily  through  the  dense  forest  till  between  five 
and  six,  when  to  our  joy,  as  we  were  beginning  to 
feel  very  tired,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  caves. 

We  had  had  a  lovely  walk,  as  men  had  been 
sent  on  to  clear  the  way  for  us,  though  perhaps 
we  could  have  done  without  rivers,  which  had 
either  to  be  waded  through  or  crossed  on  the 
none  too  broad  stem  of  a  fallen  tree.  Two  of  us 
followed  the  fresh  spoor  of  elephants  for  a  long 
way,  hoping  to  come  up  with  them  every  minute  ; 
but  we  saw  nothing  of  them,  and  had  to  make 
our  way  back  as  best  we  could  to  the  main  party 
before  we  quite  lost  ourselves.  There  was  nothing 
to  be  seen  but  monkeys,  rare  butterflies  and  birds. 

Monkeys,  from  the  orang-utan,  which  is  the 
Malay  for  "man  of  the  jungle,"  downwards, 
abound  in  Borneo,  and  the  natives  think  them 
excellent    eating,    but    I    simply    couldn't    either 

D 


34  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

shoot  or  skin  them.  It  was  the  one  animal  I 
stuck  at ;  they  are  so  much  too  human,  and  the 
more  you  get  to  know  them  the  more  you  realise 
how  closely  allied  they  are  to  us. 

The  greatest  drawback  to  our  walk  was  the 
quantity  of  leeches.  They  are  always  bad  enough, 
but  that  day  there  was  absolutely  no  keeping  them 
in  their  place.  We  were  dressed  in  short  skirts 
and  knickerbockers,  with  putties  bound  closely 
over  our  stockings  and  boots  so  as  to  leave  no 
crevice  of  any  kind  where  the  smallest  leech  could 
force  its  way ;  but  there  were  armies  of  them 
all  standing  in  open  order  on  each  side  of  our 
path  waiting  for  us.  Whether  they  had  smelt  us 
or  seen  us,  or  whether  it  was  only  instinct  which 
told  them  we  should  be  coming  that  way  I  don't 
know,  but  there  they  all  were,  throwing  out  their 
thin  thready  little  bodies  from  side  to  side  and 
grasping  at  whatever  of  flesh  and  blood  came  in 
their  way.  They  came  through  the  eyelets  of  our 
boots  and  made  for  any  and  every  part  of  us 
without  the  least  mercy.  You  generally  feel 
nothing  while  they  are  actually  feeding,  but  when 
they  loose  you— and  they  never  do  that  till  they 
have  turned  into  what  look  like  huge  black  slugs — 
they  prick,  and  blood  flows  from  the  wounds  they 
leave,  which  unfortunately  often  take  to  bad  ways 


TO   THE    BIRDS'  NESTS   CAVES  35 

and  refuse  to  heal.  They  are  a  real  curse,  and 
would  very  soon  bleed  anyone  to  death  unless 
he  could  protect  himself.  The  natives  suffered 
fearfully,  and  had  to  take  their  long  knives  every 
few  minutes  and  half  cut  and  half  scrape  from 
their  bare  legs  scores  of  these  little  wretches. 

They  were  literally  streaming  with  blood,  and 
if  many  of  them  stopped  long  in  any  place  the 
ground  at  their  feet  was  dyed  crimson.  Fortunately 
our  putties  protected  us  to  a  great  degree,  so  we 
arfived  in  very  good  spirits,  but  very  hungry  and 
tired,  two  of  nature's  needs  which  had  every 
chance  of  soon  being  satisfied.  It  was  a  refreshing 
sight  that  huge  dark  cave  buried  in  green.  A  large 
brilliant  blue  snake  reared  its  head  over  the 
entrance  and  barred  our  way,  but  we  soon  shot 
it,  and  after  a  much-appreciated  dinner  we  wan- 
dered through  the  cave  looking  for  somewhere 
to  sleep,  as  night  had  come  down  on  us  almost 
before  we  were  aware  of  it,  and  our  carriers  had 
lagged  behind  until  it  was  too  dark  to  build  huts. 
We  decided  at  last  on  some  bamboo  resting-places 
put  up  and  already  used  by  the  Budulupes,  the 
native  tribe  to  whom  the  Government  farms  out 
the  nests.  It  is  a  comfort  to  feel  that  even  if  I 
haven't  got  their  name  quite  right  no  one  will 
know  ! 


36  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

They  weren't  there  themselves  just  then,  but 
they  had  left  the  place  very  fully  occupied,  and 
we  must  have  indeed  been  worn  out  to  have  been 
able  to  sleep  at  all  ! 

The  next  morning  we  were  up  by  5  a.m.,  and 
after  bathing  in  a  river  near  and  having  our 
breakfast,  we  examined  the  huge  cave  we  had 
been  sleeping  in.  It  was  just  like  a  magnificent 
beautifully  proportioned  cathedral,  several  hundred 
feet  high,  worked  out  of  the  limestone  rock  by  the 
action  of  the  sea  hundreds  of  years  before,  and  lit 
up  by  a  large  natural  window  four  hundred  feet 
from  the  ground,  which  filled  the  vastness  with  a 
dim  religious  light. 

Morning  and  night  we  saw  a  most  wonderful 
sight,  myriads  of  bats  passing  in  or  out  of  the 
cave  in  a  serried  mass,  their  wings  making  a 
rushing,  whirring  noise  as  they  cut  through  the 
air,  something  like  the  sound  of  an  engine  letting 
off  steam.  They  started  at  about  5  p.m.,  and  the 
stream  never  stopped  for  about  fifty  minutes,  which 
gives  some  idea  of  their  number.  They  went  up 
to  a  great  height  in  a  regular  spiral  column, 
sections  of  them  whirring  round  and  round  in 
circles,  and  then  they  suddenly  broke  up  into 
various  bodies,  which  dashed  off  to  their  own 
special  hunting  grounds.     The  cave  where  most 


TO   THE    BIRDS'  NESTS    CAVES  37 

of  them  slept  was  just  behind  ours,  but  we  couldn't 
go  into  it  as  the  floor  was  covered  with  a  deposit 
of  guano  many  yards  deep,  which  in  a  more 
get-at-able  place  would  have  been  most  valuable. 

When  the  bats  went  out  the  swallows  came  in, 
and  vice  versa  ;  but  there  was  more  irregularity 
about  their  movements,  and  they  took  longer  over 
it,  so  they  weren't  so  interesting  to  watch.  At 
about  7  a.m.  we  started  to  climb  up  Gomanton 
Hill  to  visit  the  higher  caves.  No  lady  had  ever 
attempted  any  of  the  caves  before,  and  very  few 
men  the  upper  ones,  so  we  were  very  pleased  with 
ourselves. 

The  ascent  was  certainly  not  easy.  The  whole 
way  was  very  steep,  and  we  were  constantly 
climbing,  holding  on  for  dear  life  to  any  pro- 
jection or  creeper.  In  parts  it  was  practically 
perpendicular,  and  once  or  twice  all  footholds  dis- 
appeared, and  we  had  to  climb  up  most  insecure- 
looking  bamboo  and  rattan  ladders  placed  against 
the  face  of  the  bare  cliff  and  pegged  to  the  rock. 
The  least  false  move  would  have  landed  us  in 
eternity,  so  we  weren't  sorry  when  the  five  hundred 
feet  were  over  and  we  found  ourselves  at  the 
entrance  of  the  upper  cave. 

We  rested  there  for  a  few  minutes  and  revelled 
in  the  glorious  view  which  lay  below  us,  and  more 


38  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

than  made  up  for  all  we  had  had  to  go  through  ; 
but  we  had  still  more  perils  to  encounter.  We 
had  come  to  visit  the  upper  caves,  and  so  far  were 
only  at  the  entrance,  and  all  we  could  see  before  us 
was  a  very  steep  slope  into  a  pitch-dark  chasm. 

A  Malay  boy  went  before  us  with  a  lamp  which 
seemed  to  have  very  little  power  against  the  dense 
blackness  through  which  we  groped  our  way, 
never  knowing  from  minute  to  minute  what  abysses 
were  yawning  on  every  side  of  us.  We  seemed 
to  be  in  an  enormous  cave  with  smaller  caves 
leading  off  it  on  both  sides  and  pitfalls  in  every 
direction. 

One  cavern  was  said  to  be  the  burial  ground  of 
a  very  powerful  Rajah,  and  the  natives  had  never 
attempted  to  examine  it  for  fear  of  ghosts. 

We  passed  by  one  specially  large  crater  which 
went  sheer  down  into  aching  darkness  ;  a  stumble, 
and  this  world  would  have  been  rid  of  us.  But 
Providence  was  evidently  very  near  us,  and  though 
we  seemed  to  be  descending  into  the  bowels  of  the 
earth  down  a  slippery  as  well  as  a  dark  and  steep 
way,  we  found  ourselves  after  a  few  minutes  safely 
at  the  bottom,  and  after  a  short  ascent  we  came 
into  a  magnificent  dome,  pierced  from  above  by  a 
most  welcome  shaft  of  real  daylight,  which  showed 
up  to  perfection  the  wonderful  beauty  of  the  huge 


TO   THE    BIRDS'  NESTS   CAVES  39 

cave  just  as  it  had  been  left  by  the  sea  such 
ages  ago.  It  was  certainly  one  of  the  grandest 
sights  we  had  ever  seen,  so  vast  and  so  perfectly 
proportioned,  and  nothing  had  been  forgotten. 
Stalactites,  marvellous  in  tracery  and  design, 
decorated  the  roof  and  made  beautiful  gardens  for 
the  thousands,  the  tens  of  thousands,  of  swallows 
who  made  their  nests  in  every  nook  and  crevice. 

These  are  the  nests  which,  when  collected  at 
the  proper  time  and  in  good  condition,  look  like 
white  gelatine,  and  are  very  valuable  for  soup. 
Chinese  gourmets  will  give  almost  anything  for 
them,  but  when  they  are  mixed  with  feathers  and 
other  refuse  they  are  not  worth  nearly  so  much. 
The  birds  make  them  entirely  from  their  own 
salivary  secretion,  and  it  is  more  than  wonderful 
how  the  natives  collect  them. 

At  least  three  hundred  feet  above  us  we  saw 
frail  bamboo  staging  dotted  about  here  and  there, 
and  from  many  parts  of  the  roof  pliable  bamboo 
ladders  were  hanging  from  firmly  fixed  pegs  of 
wood.  How  the  first  ones  got  up  there  the 
natives  didn't  seem  able  to  explain,  but  the 
present  ones  are  hammered  in,  in  the  most 
hideously  dangerous  and  impossible  way  for  any- 
one, except  those  who  have  been  trained  to  it,  as 
the  Budulupes,  from  their  babyhood. 


40  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

A  man  climbs  up  one  of  these  swinging  ladders 
carrying  with  him  a  very  long  rattan,  and  when 
he  has  marked  out  any  place  specially  rich  in 
nests,  he  fixes  this  rattan  by  a  peg  into  the  lime- 
stone roof  close  to  the  ladder,  and  then,  trusting 
his  entire  weight  to  that  one  peg,  he  swings  off 
into  space  in  the  direction  of  any  nests  he  particu- 
larly wants.  Higher  and  higher  he  swings  him- 
self, till  he  comes  within  reach  of  any  projection 
or  crevice  in  the  limestone  roof,  and  then,  holding 
tight  to  it,  he  takes  another  peg  and  hammers  in 
another  rattan,  so  making  another  centre  from 
which  to  swing. 

Think  of  the  danger  !  Three  hundred  feet  above 
the  ground,  a  man  lying  on  the  air  hanging  on  to 
a  little  projection  of  rock,  and  at  the  same  time 
hammering  in  a  peg  on  the  strength  of  which  his 
and  the  other  collectors'  lives  are  to  depend,  and 
his  own  life  at  the  moment,  and  his  only  way  back 
to  safety  entirely  dependent  on  a  rattan  which  he 
holds  between  his  feet !  And  yet  he  smokes  happily 
while  he  is  hovering  between  life  and  death  as  if  it 
were  nothing. 

They  are  careful  to  renew  yearly  all  their  ropes 
and  ladders,  and  they  have,  I  believe,  very  few 
accidents,  though  if  you  had  ever  seen  what  we 
did  you  would  find  this  difficult  to  believe. 


TO   THE    BIRDS'  NESTS   CAVES  41 

Our  journey  back  was  uneventful,  and  though 
we  found  rhinoceroses  as  well  as  elephants  had 
been  quite  lately  along  our  path  leading  to  the 
river,  we  again  saw  nothing,  which  was  disap- 
pointing ;  but  our  canoes  were  waiting  for  us,  and 
our  launch  met  us  again  further  down,  and  we 
arrived  in  due  time  at  Sandakan  very  tired  but 
very  pleased  with  ourselves. 


CHAPTER   V 
ON   A   DESERT    ISLAND 

ONE  of  our  most  favourite  haunts  was  Taganak, 
a  lovely  uninhabited  island  about  twenty- 
two  miles  from  Sandakan,  and  when  we  had  two 
or  three  days  to  spare,  we  borrowed  a  steam  launch 
or  little  sailing  yacht  and  off  we  went. 

With  a  good  breeze  it  only  took  us  a  few  hours 
to  sail  there,  and  when  it  was  calm  I  enjoyed  it ; 
but  it  was  a  dangerous  place  for  sudden  storms, 
and  when  one  of  these  caught  us  and  the  sea  rose 
higher  and  higher  and  we  had  to  let  go  all  sail  and 
rush  before  it,  I  would  have  given  more  than  a 
little  to  find  myself  on  dry  land  again. 

The  sails  bounded  away  in  front  of  us,  or  lay 
sideways  on  the  water  whilst  we  cut  at  a  terrific 
rate  through  the  blinding  foam.  It  was  certainly 
bracing  ;  every  nerve  was  strung  up,  and  if  I  were 
a  proper  sailor  I  should  of  course  have  loved  it. 
But  I  am  not,  so  I  hated  it.  My  first  really  happy 
moment   was  when    we   arrived    in   safety  again, 

42 


ON   A   DESERT   ISLAND  43 

drenched  from  head  to  foot,  but  hardly  conscious 
of  it  in  the  joy  of  being  alive. 

Taganak  has  only  one  really  good  landing-place, 
as  a  barrier  coral  reef  runs  round  the  greater  part 
of  the  island.  I  wish  I  could  describe  coral  as  I 
first  saw  it.  Before  I  went  to  Taganak  there  was 
no  romance  to  me  in  coral.  I  only  thought  it 
existed  in  two  colours — pink  and  red — and  I  practi- 
cally only  knew  it  in  the  form  of  beads.  But  one 
very  bright  and  lovely  day  I  was  floating  lazily 
about  in  a  small  boat  close  to  the  shore,  when  I 
looked  over  the  side  and  saw,  through  several 
fathoms  of  water  of  such  transparency  that  it 
heightened  instead  of  taking  from  the  effect  of 
what  lay  below,  a  fairyland  of  beauty — graceful 
trees  and  lovely  gardens  in  every  design  and 
colour,  all  blended  together  in  perfect  harmony. 
The  exquisite  finish  and  delicacy  of  every  tendril 
is  impossible  to  describe,  but  I  don't  think  I  have 
ever  seen  anything  so  beautiful  before  or  since. 
The  brilliant  blue  little  fishes,  darting  about  play- 
ing hide-and-seek  in  and  out  of  all  the  covered 
ways  in  this  wonderful  playground,  and  for  whose 
sake  all  this  wealth  of  beauty  seems  to  have  been 
made,  certainly  lead  an  enviable  life. 

As  the  island  was  uninhabited  we  were  able  to 
wander  about  dressed  in  as  airy  costumes  as  we 


44  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

liked,  which  in  the  tropics  is  a  great  boon.  In  the 
daytime  we  had  a  shady  open  jungle  which  came 
down  almost  to  the  water's  edge,  and  was  full  of 
interesting  trees  and  flowers,  as  well  as  butter- 
flies, pigeons,  and  jungle  fowl.  Then  at  night 
we  sat  by  the  water  and  watched  the  brilliant 
phosphorescence  in  front  of  us,  which  alternately 
changed  from  the  most  vivid  emerald  green  to  a 
sea  of  silver.  So  charged  was  the  sea  with  this 
wonderful  light,  that  on  a  dark  night  if  you  put 
your  hand  in  the  water  it  would  flash  with  bright 
diamonds  after  you  pulled  it  out  again.  We  slept 
in  our  usual  little  huts,  roofed  with  palm  leaves, 
just  inside  the  jungle,  which  our  boys  put  up  in  a 
few  minutes  for  us. 

There's  an  extraordinary  fascination  in  sleeping 
out  of  doors,  particularly  on  a  desert  island.  It 
gives  you  such  a  wonderfully  free,  uncooped  feel- 
ing; and  sometimes  when  the  moon  was  at  its  full, 
and  lit  up  the  sea  at  one  side  of  you  and  the  jungle 
on  the  other,  the  calm  quiet  beauty  of  it  all  filled 
your  whole  being. 

Our  staple  food  was  turtles'  eggs,  and  in  the 
morning,  if  we  were  up  early  enough,  we  could 
see  the  turtles  waddling  off  to  the  sea  again  after 
laying  their  eggs.  They  are  extraordinarily  strong. 
One  day  I  got  on  to  the  back  of  one,  and  it  walked 


ON   A   DESERT   ISLAND  45 

on  just  as  if  it  didn't  know  I  was  there.  They  will 
never  walk  over  sand  where  man  has  trodden, 
unless  all  taint  has  gone  by  the  tide  washing  out 
his  footsteps;  but  if  you  are  careful  not  to  intrude, 
they  come  up  out  of  the  water,  dig  holes  about  a 
yard  deep,  lay  their  eggs — about  one  hundred  to 
a  hundred  and  thirty  at  a  time — and  then  carefully 
replace  the  sand.  The  eggs  are  round,  about  the 
size  of  a  billiard-ball,  with  soft  tough  skins,  and 
all  together  they  make  a  more  or  less  elastic  mass. 
The  natives  seem  to  know  by  the  faintest  touch 
that  they  are  there. 

They  take  a  thin  rod  which  they  keep  on  run- 
ning into  the  sand,  and  in  this  way  they  soon  find 
the  nests  even  if  the  tide  has  been  over  them  and 
left  no  tracks.  I  tried  to  learn,  and  ran  a  great 
risk  of  smashing  up  all  the  eggs,  long  before  I 
could  make  up  my  mind  whether  there  were  any 
or  not.  The  white  is  too  opaque  to  use,  but  the 
yolk  makes  very  good  omelets,  and  can  also  be 
eaten  hard-boiled. 

Our  life  at  Taganak  was  generally  very  peace- 
ful, with  no  fear  of  outside  interruption,  so  I  was 
much  astonished  when  our  boy  appeared  one  day 
followed  by  three  starving  beings  who  turned  out 
to  be  escaped  slaves  from  an  island  hundreds  of 
miles  away.      At  first  I  couldn't  make  out  what 


46  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

was  the  matter.  There  were  two  women  and  a 
man,  and  the  eldest  woman  knelt  on  the  sands 
hugging  my  feet,  and  chattering  to  me  in  an 
absolutely  unknown  language  ;  but  fortunately 
among  our  boys  there  was  one  who  understood 
her,  and  could  translate  what  she  said  into  Malay, 
and  we  found  they  had  started  days  before  in  a 
cockleshell  of  a  boat  which  they  had  made  them- 
selves in  strict  privacy,  just  a  little  dug-out  canoe 
with  a  huge  sail  patched  together  of  any  scraps 
they  could  lay  their  hands  on. 

Most  people  would  have  laughed  at  the  mere 
idea  of  trusting  themselves  on  a  shallow  pond  in 
anything  so  frail  as  the  boat  in  which  these  three 
poor  natives  for  several  days  and  nights  had  lived 
on  the  open  sea.  They  had  been  grossly  illtreated 
by  some  brute  of  a  Malay  master,  and  at  last  they 
had  made  good  their  escape. 

They  entreated  me  to  take  them  as  my  slaves 
for  ever,  and  I  was  really  sorry  to  have  to  refuse 
them,  though  what  I  should  have  done  with  them 
I  can't  imagine;  but  we  fed  them  and  comforted 
them  as  best  we  could,  and  then  Dick  sent  them 
on  to  Sandakan  with  a  note  which  would  ensure 
their  being  well  taken  care  of.  It  was  dreadful 
having  them  lying  at  my  feet.  Natives  have  a  way 
when  they  are  talking  to  you  of  doubling  them- 
selves up  as  if  they  were  in  very  bad  pain,  or  pros- 


ON    A   DESERT    ISLAND  47 

trating  themselves.  The  Dutch  like  it,  and  think 
it  adds  to  their  dignity;  but  in  reality  there  cannot 
be  anything  much  more  undignified  and  degrad- 
ing to  one  part  of  the  human  race  than  to  have 
another  part  of  it  cowering  in  front  of  them. 

Black  races  were,  of  course,  never  meant  to  be 
in  the  same  position  as  white  ones,  any  more  than 
a  kitchenmaid  of  a  house,  however  excellent  she 
may  be,  is  made  to  be  the  equal  of  her  mistress. 
They  were  meant  to  serve,  not  to  rule  ;  and  it  is 
entirely  our  faults  when  they  fail  in  positions  of 
authority  in  which  we  have  placed  them,  for 
which  and  to  which  they  were  neither  qualified 
nor  born,  but  they  wouldn't  have  been  given  legs 
unless  they  were  meant  to  stand  on  them.  The 
Dutch  are  inclined  to  look  upon  them  as  not 
merely  a  lower  race  than  themselves,  but  lower 
than  their  animals,  and  we  had  occasionally  most 
brutal  cases  of  cruelty  on  the  estates  which  Dick 
and  the  other  magistrates  had  to  inquire  into.  It 
was  most  uncomfortable  sometimes  to  get  out  of 
lunching  with  the  very  man  they  were  going  to 
try,  and,  however  fiendish  the  managers  had 
been,  they  always  expected  and  considered  it  their 
right  to  escape  with  only  a  fine.  Dick  got  into 
great  trouble  once  for  giving  a  fine  with  the 
option  of  imprisonment.   The  mention  of  the  word 


48  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

imprisonment  was  supposed  to  be  most  derogatory 
and  offensive.  Dick  was  wrong  certainly,  but  not 
in  the  way  they  meant.  The  manager  was  a 
blackguard,  and  it  ought  to  have  been  imprison- 
ment, with  no  option  of  a  fine. 

The  only  other  adventure  we  had  at  Taganak 
might  have  had  far  more  unpleasant  results.  We 
were  bathing  very  far  out,  as  where  the  coral  reefs 
stopped  there  was  a  long  shallow  reach  of  smooth 
sand  which  seemed  a  perfect  place  for  a  swim,  as 
we  knew  there  were  no  large  rivers  with  crocodiles 
anywhere  near ;  but  we  had  never  thought  of 
sharks,  and  we  were  quietly  playing  about  in  the 
water  when  suddenly  a  huge  monster  appeared 
within  two  yards  of  us. 

I  don't  quite  know  what  we  felt,  it  was  all 
so  quick  and  so  horrible,  but  we  yelled  and 
splashed  as  violently  as  we  could,  and  that  so 
astonished  the  brute  that  he  at  once  fled,  and 
so  did  we.  Bathing  had  lost  all  its  charm,  and 
the  stretch  of  water  between  us  and  safety  seemed 
never-ending  ;  but  it  was  over  at  last,  and  never 
was  dry  land  more  welcome.  We  found  after- 
wards that  the  place  was  so  infested  with  sharks 
that,  though  there  was  a  rich  harvest  of  pearl 
shells  to  be  gathered  there,  the  divers  when  they 
arrived  could  do  no  work. 


CHAPTER    VI 
IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY 

THE  most  interesting  part  of  our  life  in  Borneo 
was  spent  right  up  in  the  interior,  in  the 
head-hunting  country,  an  unknown  part  of  the 
world  even  to  those  who  have  lived  in  Sandakan 
for  years,  which  is  not  surprising,  as  the  journey 
up  there  from  Sandakan  takes  as  long  as  it  does 
to  get  from  Liverpool  to  Cape  Town,  and  had  to 
be  made  entirely  by  water,  as  there  were  no  roads 
of  any  kind. 

I  had  pressing  invitations  to  live  with  some 
of  our  friends  while  Dick  was  away,  but,  in  spite 
of  everyone's  kindness,  we  started  together  early 
one  morning  across  the  bay,  making  for  the 
Kinabatangan,  the  largest  river  in   Borneo. 

A  head  tobacco  manager,  living  in  Sandakan, 
very  kindly  took  us  with  him  the  first  day,  and 
then  sent  us  on  in  his  launch  as  far  as  the  river 
was  navigable,  which  was  for  about  one  more 
day,  and  then  we  had  to  take  to  the  ordinary 
native  dug-out  boats. 

E  49 


50  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

The  first  two  nights  wc  were  most  hospitably 
housed  by  tobacco-planters,  who  put  us  up  at  their 
bungalows,  and  did  all  they  could  for  our  comfort 
and  entertainment,  which  included  a  wonderful 
sword  dance  by  moonlight,  given  by  a  large 
number  of  Sikhs  from  one  of  the  estates.  Better 
tobacco  leaf  for  the  covering  of  cigars  is  grown 
on  these  estates  than  in  any  other  part  of  the 
world. 

Another  night  a  Dutch  manager  kindly  gave 
a  dinner-party  in  our  honour,  and  as  French  hours 
were  the  rule,  and  we  had  had  nothing  but  coffee 
since  our  eleven  o'clock  dejeuner,  we  arrived 
at  his  house  simply  famishing  at  about  6.30, 
expecting  to  have  dinner  at  once.  Drinks  of  every 
kind  were  handed  round  incessantly  one  after 
another,  including  gin  and  port,  and  7.30  came, 
and  8.30  came,  and  still  no  prospect  of  food  ;  but 
at  last,  to  our  intense  relief,  we  saw  signs  of  life 
in  the  dining-room,  which  led  out  of  the  verandah, 
where  we  were  all  sitting,  and  in  time  we  got 
some  dinner. 

The  anxieties  of  the  evening  were  not  over,  how- 
ever, as  afterwards  our  host  insisted  on  our  having 
a  dance,  and  before  we  could  stop  him  everything 
was  cleared  away  and  prepared.  It  was  too  awful, 
as  we  all  knew,  though  we  weren't  supposed  to, 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY       51 

and  so  could  say  nothing,  that  he  had  very  bad 
heart  disease,  and  might  at  any  moment  fall  down 
dead.  The  doctor  had  ordered  him  never  to  touch 
wine,  and  never  to  take  the  slightest  extra  exertion, 
and  anything  more  absolutely  against  all  orders 
than  the  way  we  were  spending  the  evening  I 
have  seldom  seen.  A  very  charming  German  lady 
who  was  there  was  as  miserable  as  I  was,  and 
we  could  only  pray  that  he  wouldn't  die  while  we 
were  actually  dancing  with  him,  and  leave  as 
early  as  we  possibly  could  without  giving  offence. 

The  first  fifty  or  sixty  miles  of  the  Kinabatangan 
is  very  dull.  The  sides  are  lined  with  nothing 
but  mangrove  and  nipas  palm  swamps.  The  first 
sign  of  human  habitation  is  the  deserted,  low- 
lying  Melapi  estate,  suitable  for  sago  planting 
and  sugar-cane.  The  sago  palms  love  low,  swampy 
districts,  and  when  they  are  eight  or  ten  years  old 
they  are  cut  down  and  split  up,  and  the  pith 
hollowed  out  with  bamboo  scoops,  and  then  that 
is  washed  and  dried  in  the  sun  again  and  again, 
till  it  becomes  the  sago  we  know  in  soups  and 
puddings. 

The  next  estate,  Bilit,  is  a  great  contrast  to 
Melapi — a  beautifully  kept  plantation,  with  a  lovely 
bungalow,  covered  with  creepers,  very  pictu- 
resquely situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill  overlooking 


52  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

the  river  ;  then  at  varying  interv^als  come  about 
three  more  estates,  and  the  tobacco  region  is 
passed. 

The  native  houses  are  very  few  and  far  between, 
but  sometimes  we  came  upon  most  welcome 
clumps  of  fruit  trees,  marking  out  where  there  had 
formerly  been  a  village,  and  langsats,  durians, 
lichee,  pumeloes,  limes,  and  other  refreshing  fruits 
made  a  most  welcome  addition  to  our  diet,  which 
consisted  for  the  most  part  of  corned  beef,  sardines, 
eggs,  chickens,  and  rice.  The  estates  are  worked 
generally  with  Chinese  labour.  The  Chinese  are 
a  most  industrious,  law-abiding  people  if  only 
they  are  governed  properly,  and  as  labourers  they 
are  unequalled  for  work  requiring  physical  strength 
and  intelligence,  as  they  can  stand  climates  which 
would  kill  Europeans,  and  they  produce  wonder- 
ful results  with  whatever  they  take  in  hand. 
Their  work,  whether  mining,  trading,  or  garden- 
ing, is  first  rate,  and  they  certainly  deserve  to 
succeed,  as  they  are  very  temperate  in  their  habits, 
and  they  spare  themselves  no  trouble  and  go  in 
for  no  luxuries  except  opium,  which,  in  the 
majority  of  cases,  has  a  distinctly  beneficial  effect 
on  them,  opium  smokers  being  among  the  most 
orderly  and  the  best-conducted  members  of  the 
Chinese  community. 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY       53 

The  amount  of  nonsense  which  is  talked  some- 
times by  those  who  know  nothing  about  the 
question  of  the  employment  of  Chinese  labour 
is  too  ludicrous.  One  thing  only  can  be  said,  and 
that  is  that,  once  tried  in  those  parts  of  the  world 
where  white  labour  is  impracticable,  they  will 
make  themselves,  in  an  unobtrusive,  quiet  way,  so 
indispensable  to  the  development  of  whatever 
work  they  have  in  hand  that  no  employers  of 
labour  will  ever  wish  to  be  rid  of  them. 

They  are  a  strange,  interesting  people,  deeply 
conservative,  and  deadly  enemies  to  all  progress 
and  Western  innovations. 

Their  minds  are  cast  in  such  an  absolutely 
different  mould  from  ours,  that  it  is  difficult  for  us 
to  understand  one  another.  Perhaps  one  of  their 
most  striking  traits  is  their  utter  indifference  to 
death.  Among  the  thousands  of  coolies  who 
come  down  to  Borneo  there  is  naturally  some 
scum,  and  on  one  of  the  estates  Dick  had  a  murder 
case  to  try.  Four  men  were  accused  of  murdering 
their  superintendent.  They  owned  up  at  once  and 
gave  all  the  details  themselves,  not  attempting 
to  excuse  it  in  any  way,  and  two  other  coolies 
insisted  on  being  in  it  too.  Dick  explained  to 
them  that  there  was  nothing  against  them,  and 
that  it  was  a  hanging  matter,  but  that  apparently 


54  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

made  them  all  the  keener  to  join  in.  They  have 
absolutely  no  fear  of  death  so  long  as  all  their 
limbs  are  together,  but  they  can't  stand  the  idea 
of  the  other  world  minus  a  finger  or  toe,  and 
if  they  have  had  to  lose  either  one  or  the  other 
in  hospital  they  ask  leave  to  have  it  preserved 
so  that  they  can  take  it  back  to  China  and  have  it 
buried  with  them. 

They  are  also  very  strong  fatalists.  If  you  fall 
into  the  water  they  will  never  put  out  a  hand  to 
help  you,  as  they  take  your  fall  as  a  sign  that  the 
god  of  the  waters  is  determined  to  have  a  life, 
and  they  think  if  it  isn't  yours  he  gets  it  will  be 
theirs.  I  only  know  of  one  case  where  a  China- 
man saved  a  man  from  drowning,  and  that  was  an 
extraordinary  exception  to  their  rule. 

There  was  once  a  very  flourishing  trade  between 
Borneo  and  China,  but  the  trade  fell  off  when  the 
Portuguese  and  Spanish  and  Dutch  appeared  on 
the  scene,  as  they  destroyed  all  produce  they 
could  not  use  themselves,  and  the  Malays  have 
never  really  recovered  from  the  treatment  they  re- 
ceived at  their  hands.  The  natives  are  expert  at 
boating,  cutting  down  trees,  building  rough 
houses,  and  making  palm-leaf  roofing  and  mats, 
but  though  many  of  them  have  Chinese  blood  in 
their  veins,  they  show  none  of  the  Chinese  charac- 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY       55 

teristics.  They  are  as  lazy  as  the  Chinese  are 
hardworking. 

Going  up  the  first  part  of  the  river  we  had  to 
do  entirely  with  Dusun  tribes,  and  w^e  found  them 
very  gentle  and  courteous,  and  their  long  palm- 
leaf  houses  surrounded  by  gardens  and  nestling 
in  trees  on  the  river  banks  were  very  picturesque. 
They  have  not  many  wants,  and  the  only  real 
work  they  do  in  the  year  is  cutting  down  trees  and 
clearing  the  land  for  their  rice,  or  padi  crops,  as 
they  are  always  called. 

They  grow  maize,  tapioca-root,  sugar-cane, 
bananas,  and  sweet  potatoes  round  their  houses 
with  a  minimum  of  work,  but  their  only  ambition 
is  to  provide  enough  of  everything  for  their  daily 
consumption,  and  with  that  they  are  more  than 
content. 

The  soil  is  wonderfully  fertile,  from  the  highest 
hills  which  produce  splendid  crops  of  padi,  to  the 
lowest-lying  swamps,  where  you  get  equally  good 
crops  of  sago  ;  the  whole  country,  owing  to  its 
temperature  and  rainfall,  is  really  suited  for  all 
kinds  of  tropical  products,  and  there  is  hardly  an 
inch  of  land  which,  with  a  little  trouble  spent  over 
it,  would  not  yield  good  results  ;  but  they  are 
happier  taking  life  easily,  and  if  they  spend  an 
hour  or  two  in  the  day  looking  fur  jungle  produce 
they  feel  they  have  done  well. 


56  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

This,  to  our  unsatisfied,  restless,  craving  minds 
is  maddening,  and  we  long  to  upset  their  peaceful 
lives  by  planting  in  them  a  longing  for  the  root  of 
all  evil,  for  the  very  unselfish  reason  that  it  would 
eventually  mean  gain  for  us. 

They  are  perfectly  happy  without  money  ;  no 
one  is  rich,  no  one  poor  ;  and  money,  or  the  want 
of  it,  has  made  such  a  hopeless  mess  of  many  of 
our  lives,  that  it  seems  a  pity  we  should  try  to 
introduce  the  same  disturbing  element  into  theirs. 
They  are  lazy  certainly  ;  but  compare  that  vice 
with  those  which  go  hand  in  hand  with  the  love 
of  gain.  Envy,  covetousness,  and  lust  are  un- 
known to  them.  Their  only  great  vice  is  a  passion 
for  shedding  blood,  which  in  a  lesser  degree  is  as 
fully  developed  in  them  as  in  the  head-hunting 
Murut  and  Dyak  tribes.  To  satisfy  this  craving, 
"blood  feuds"  have  been  handed  down  from 
generation  to  generation  between  the  different 
tribes  dotted  about  all  over  the  country.  No  man 
ever  fights  against  his  own  people,  but  he  wins 
fame  for  himself  and  for  his  whole  tribe  by  making 
war  on  anyone  with  whom  he  has  the  satisfaction 
of  having  a  blood  feud.  When  we  were  staying 
among  them,  we  saw  nothing  but  the  peaceful  side 
of  their  characters.  They  have  settled  down  won- 
derfully quietly  under  British  rule,  and  they  give 
very  little  trouble. 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY       57 

They  had  a  tremendous  respect  for  Dick,  caused 
partly,  I  expect,  by  his  great  height.  Their  average 
size  was  about  four  feet,  and  his  six  feet  three 
inches  impressed  them  deeply,  and  his  very  grave 
manner  suited  them,  as  they  cannot  bear  to  feel 
they  are  not  being  taken  seriously  ;  they  are  most 
sensitive  to  any  idea  of  ridicule,  a  trait  in  their 
characters  which  is  not  sufficiently  grasped  by 
those  over  them. 

The  only  way  Dick  could  really  get  at  things 
he  wanted  to  know  was  to  ask  any  natives  who 
had  special  information  to  come  and  see  him,  and 
then  to  sit  quietly  and  let  them  ramble  on  at  their 
will  with  very  long  stories  nothing  to  do  with  the 
point.  It  is  difficult  when  you  are  in  a  great  hurry 
to  look  as  if  time  were  no  object;  but  it  is  the  only 
safe  and  sure  way  to  get  at  anything  when  you 
are  dealing  with  coloured  races.  They  cannot  go 
straight  to  the  point,  and  if  you  try  to  make  them, 
the  only  result  is  hopeless  confusion  in  their  mind 
and  yours.  It  is  like  trying  to  help  anyone  who 
stammers  badly  ;  they  start  each  time  from  the 
beginning  again. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  Mahometanism  among 
these  river  tribes  till  you  get  right  up  into  the  ixi- 
terior,  and  those  who  profess  it  are,  like  all 
Mahometans,   most  careful  about  their  religious 


58  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

observances.  A  chief  while  we  were  with  him 
would  suddenly  start  bowing  and  kneeling  and 
prostrating  himself,  and  at  the  same  time  gabble 
off  weird  prayers,  which  often  sounds  to  an  out- 
sider like  a  constant  repetition  of  the  words,  "  La 
ilia  ill  ullah  la."  I  tried  to  find  out  from  one  of 
our  orderlies,  a  devout  Mahometan,  what  it  meant, 
but  he  did  not  know,  and  I  do  not  think  he 
specially  wanted  to. 

In  Africa  we  used  to  be  waked  up  by  boys  spell- 
ing out  and  chanting  verses  of  the  Koran  by  the 
glow  of  a  stick  fire,  round  which  they  were  all 
huddled,  but  they  understand  little  or  nothing  of 
what  they  are  doing,  which  suits  them  admirably. 
Mahometanism,  though,  as  an  abstract  faith,  has  a 
wonderfully  strong  hold  on  them,  and  they  save 
up  year  after  year  to  be  able  to  journey  to  Mecca 
before  they  die.  Their  religion  allows  them  four 
wives,  but  very  few  avail  themselves  of  this  price- 
less privilege.  They  most  of  them  find  one  quite 
as  much  as  they  can  manage  ! 

Every  morning,  when  we  came  to  a  convenient 
place  to  land,  we  used  to  get  out  and  have  our 
food  and  stretch  our  legs  while  the  men  cooked 
their  rice.  The  people  were  very  nice  to  us, 
bringing  us  fruit  and  welcoming  us  sometimes 
with  the  most  perfect  courtesy,  but  generally  they 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY       59 

found  me  such  a  wonderful  sight  they  could  do 
little  but  stare.  Every  man,  woman,  and  child 
would  stand  and  gaze  as  if  their  minds  were  in- 
capable of  taking  in  such  a  phenomenon.  I  used 
to  chatter  to  them,  and  though  they  could  not 
understand  a  word,  they  made  a  most  enthusiastic 
audience,  as  they  laughed  when  I  laughed,  and 
followed  every  word  and  movement,  and  were 
certainly  very  easy  to  entertain,  as  the  fact  of  my 
being  able  to  use  my  hands  and  cross  my  legs 
and  open  and  shut  my  eyes  interested  them  enor- 
mously, and  was  pointed  out  to  those  who  might 
have  missed  it  as  something  really  worthy  of  note. 
They  were  delighted  when  we  stayed  with  them  ; 
several  families  shared  the  same  house,  each  of 
them  having  a  small  square  of  floor,  which  was 
their  own  special  private  property.  In  the  day- 
time there  was  nothing  to  show  where  one  square 
ended  and  the  other  began,  but  at  night  some  of 
them  enclosed  their  little  space  entirely  with  heavy 
curtains,  and  the  amount  of  microbes  and  carbonic 
acid  gas  they  must  have  inhaled  is  too  awful  to 
think  of. 

Dick  had  various  cases  to  try  on  our  way  up 
into  the  interior,  but  most  of  them  of  a  very  mild 
type.  A  man  would  come  determined  to  divorce 
his  wife,  and  Dick  was  obliged  to  give  a  permit 


6o  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

if  he  insisted,  but  I  have  never  known  anyone  go 
away  with  one  yet.  First  the  man  would  come, 
then  the  woman,  bringing  up  the  most  childish 
trivialities  against  each  other,  and  it  was  evidently 
quite  impossible  for  them  ever  to  get  on  again. 
Dick  would  talk  to  them  gravely,  and  tell  them  to 
come  back  again  in  twenty-four  hours  with  their 
final  decision,  and  they  were  then  in  ludicrously 
different  moods,  delighted  with  each  other  and 
all  the  world,  and  evidently  meaning  to  live  hap- 
pily ever  afterwards.  They  are  just  like  children, 
but  unfortunately  their  quarrels  may  lead  to  more 
serious  results. 

One  day  a  native  corporal  brought  up  two 
privates  with  a  great  grievance  against  a  man 
whom  they  had  arrested  for  insult.  "What  did 
he  do?"  "  He  fell  over  a  step  going  into  a  house, 
hurting  a  man  inside!"  "Did  he  do  it  on  pur- 
pose?" "Oh  no,  but  it  was  an  insult,  as  he  hurt 
the  man  badly!"  "But  it  was  an  accident!" 
"Yes."  "Then  it  was  not  an  insult !"  "  Yes  it 
was,  because  he  didn't  say  he  was  sorry."  The 
sting  was  out,  the  offender  was  then  made  to 
apologise,  and  they  all  walked  off  happily  to- 
gether. Refined  niceties  of  that  kind  are  not 
what  you  expect  to  find  among  partial  or  wholly 
savage    races,    but    the    people's    unquestioning 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY      6i 

confidence  in  the  justice  of  an  Englishman  is  very 
touching,  and  those  who  are  unprincipled  enough 
to  act  in  such  a  way  as  to  wreck  that  trust  have 
a  great  deal  to  answer  for.  They  wreck  at  the 
same  time  their  reverence  for  all  that  is  above 
them,  including  their  conception,  however  dim, 
of  God. 

It  is  a  great  pity  that  men  and  even  boys,  totally 
ignorant  of  native  life  and  customs,  are  sent  to 
rule,  or  rather  to  experiment  on  them,  for  it  is 
nothing  else  but  learning  by  blunder  after 
blunder — a  bitter  experience  to  the  native,  if  not 
to  them — the  things  which  belong  to  the  peace  of 
the  country  they  have  been  sent  to  govern.  Cases 
of  this  kind  are  constant,  and  might  so  easily  be 
avoided.  No  one  at  home  would  dream  of  turn- 
ing into  their  schoolrooms  governesses  who  had 
not  only  never  seen  children,  but  had  had  no 
training  in  the  art  of  teaching  ;  and  yet  that  is 
what  we  are  doing  constantly  in  out-of-the-way 
parts  of  the  world,  because  at  the  moment  there 
is  no  one  with  any  experience  to  send.  Inexperi- 
ence does  such  incalculable  harm  that  one  can't 
help  feeling  how  far  better  it  would  be  to  leave 
the  natives  alone  till  the  necessary  experience  has 
been  gained,  even  if  it  should  risk  an  intertribal 
war. 


62  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

Every  country,  whether  white  or  black,  has 
some  manners  and  customs  peculiar  to  itself,  but 
we  English  refuse  to  recognise  this  well-known 
fact.  We  pride  ourselves  on  standing  first  among 
the  nations  of  the  world,  and  instead  of  being 
particularly  careful  for  that  very  reason  to  show 
our  superiority  by  special  courtesy,  we  force  our 
insularism  where  it  is  not  wanted,  and  ride  rough- 
shod over  any  ways  which  may  not  agree  with 
ours.  This  characteristic  often  makes  us  intoler- 
ably offensive  to  other  Europeans,  and  to  coloured 
races  ungenerous  and  cruel  ;  but  even  with  the 
best  intentions  in  the  world  it  is  impossible  not  to 
offend  unless  we  first  learn  by  our  own  experience, 
or  in  a  happier  and  less  painful  way  still,  by  other 
people's,  something  of  the  history  and  nature  of 
the  people  with  whom  we  have  to  deal. 

The  other  cases  Dick  had  to  see  about  were 
generally  to  do  with  slaves  or  men  marrying 
without  having  paid  their  dowry,  and  then  con- 
veniently forgetting  all  about  it. 

By  the  marriage  laws,  the  dowry  required  by 
the  parents  before  they  part  with  their  daughters 
is  so  enormous  that  the  women  are  often  getting 
on  in  years  before  the  men  can  afford  to  marry 
them,  and  so  the  population  does  not  increase 
in  the  way  it  otherwise  would. 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY       63 

As  many  as  one  hundred  and  fifty  different 
things — cattle,  gongs,  jars,  and  sarongs — may  be 
demanded,  which  means  many  years  of  worlv. 

A  Dusun  wedding  is  rather  a  quaint  sight.  If 
the  girl  lives  in  a  different  village  from  the  man, 
the  paths  between  the  two  villages  are  brushed 
very  clean  for  the  occasion  ;  then  all  we  see  and 
hear  is  a  great  deal  of  dancing  and  singing,  and 
after  the  dancing  the  bridal  procession  walks 
solemnly  in  single  file  before  the  audience.  First 
four  bridesmaids,  then  the  bride  with  her  face 
covered,  and  after  her  the  bridegroom. 

The  festivities  are  then  kept  up  till  the  morning, 
when  the  bride  goes  home  with  her  husband. 
The  next  day  it  is  etiquette  for  her  to  run  back  to 
her  father's  house,  and  when  a  lot  of  women  come 
from  her  husband's  village  to  fetch  her  back,  she 
would  be  considered  bold  and  forward  if  she  didn't 
pretend  not  to  want  to  go,  but  she  eventually  lets 
herself  be  persuaded,  and  this  little  play  has  to  be 
repeated  several  times  before  she  is  allowed  to 
settle  down  as  a  married  woman. 

The  one  thing  which  thrilled  the  people  more 
than  anything  else  was  medicine  in  every  shape 
and  form  ;  it  was  useful  as  a  reward,  if  any  of  our 
boys  had  been  doing  particularly  well,  but  there 
was   sometimes   a   great   deal  of  feeling  over  it. 


64  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

Two  men  would  come  and  say  they  felt  very  ill, 
but  if  we  gave  pills  to  them  the  two  would  increase 
in  no  time  to  two  dozen,  and  no  amount  of  nasti- 
ness  would  choke  them  off.  A  pill  was  the  goal 
at  which  they  were  all  aiming,  but  short  of  that, 
anything  was  better  than  nothing. 

We  knew  very  little,  but  they  knew  less,  and 
their  own  ideas  of  medicine  were  so  crude  and 
dreadful  that  we  could  often  do  good.  Their  one 
rule  for  all  kinds  of  wounds  was  to  fill  them  with 
sawdust,  or,  failing  that,  any  other  kind  of  dust 
was  supposed  to  be  better  than  cleanliness,  and 
they  were  more  than  astonished  when  we  washed 
the  places  with  disinfectants ;  but  they  never 
dreamed  of  doubting  us,  and  they  always  followed 
our  directions  to  the  letter.  A  small  boy  was 
given  to  me  once  to  be  my  slave  for  ever  by  its 
father,  a  chief  in  one  of  the  villages  we  were 
passing  through. 

We  heard  a  child  constantly  moaning  as  if  it 
was  in  great  pain,  and  we  found  a  very  sweet 
little  two-year-old  boy  who  had  trodden  on  the 
fire  and  burnt  his  foot  terribly.  It  was  in  an 
awful  state,  as  it  was  clotted  with  dust  and  dirt, 
and  I  never  had  a  worse  half  hour  than  washing 
and  dressing  it,  the  child  shrieking  with  agony, 
poor  little  scrap,  and  the  people  pressing  round 
on  every  side  to  see  what  I  was  doing. 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY       65 

Its  mother  held  it,  and  her  quiet  confidence  in 
me,  though  she  couldn't  understand  a  word  I  said, 
and  I  was  torturing  her  child,  was  very  touching. 
At  last,  however,  it  was  done,  and  in  a  few  days 
I  heard  to  my  great  relief  that  it  was  practically 
well.  The  chief  was  overwhelming  in  his  grati- 
tude, and  didn't  like  my  smiling  when  he  pre- 
sented me  with  his  fat  little  baby  son  as  my  slave  ! 

Sometimes  their  faith  in  our  medical  powers 
became  a  little  awkward,  and  a  man  with  paralysis, 
or  a  woman  with  one  leg  shorter  than  the  other, 
took  our  inability  to  attempt  to  cure  them  as  a 
sign  of  unfriendliness,  and  it  was  very  difficult 
to  make  them  understand  the  difference  between 
"won't"  and  ''can't."  A  white  man's  "can't"  was 
an  unknown  quantity  to  them.  A  very  old  Rajah 
came  and  sat  down  at  the  entrance  of  our  cubicle 
one  day  with  an  extreme  old-age  cough  which  he 
kept  going  for  our  benefit.  He  insisted  on  having 
medicine,  and  he  was  too  old  to  play  with,  and 
we  couldn't  bring  back  youth;  but  we  were  almost 
ready  to  attempt  that  at  last  in  our  anxiety  to  get 
rid  of  him.  There  he  sat,  making  every  kind  of 
disgusting  noise  and  absolutely  refusing  to  move; 
so  at  last,  in  sheer  desperation,  we  made  him  up 
a  prescription,  and  he  went  happily  away.  We 
mixed  fruit  syrup  and  water  together,  and  then 


66  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

flavoured  it  with  whisky,  and  told  him  to  take 
a  small  sip  whenever  the  cough  was  specially 
troublesome.  He  found  it  extraordinarily  com- 
forting, and  when  we  next  passed  down  the  river 
he  was  very  keen  for  more. 

All  the  tribes  have  another  characteristic  in 
common — they  are  most  superstitious. 

The  Dusuns,  if  they  find  a  dead  mouse  on  their 
path  shortly  after  starting  any  expedition,  take  it 
as  a  bad  omen,  and  wish  to  give  the  whole  thing 
up.  The  Muruts  feel  the  same  about  deer  going 
down  their  path  in  front  of  them,  across  a  padi 
field,  and  washing  a  mosquito  curtain  in  the  river 
is  supposed  to  turn  crocodiles  wild  with  rage.  This 
superstition  was  unfortunately  much  strengthened 
one  day  as  a  woman  was  washing  a  curtain  in  a 
brackish  stream  outside  her  house  up  which  no 
crocodile  could  possibly  have  come,  but  apparently 
instinct  told  them  what  was  going  on,  and  her 
husband,  when  getting  out  of  a  boat  down  by  the 
river  the  same  evening,  was  seized,  and  would 
never  have  been  heard  of  again  if  there  hadn't 
been  several  people  near  with  sticks  and  spears  to 
come  to  the  rescue. 

I  expect  the  poor  wife  bitterly  rued  the  day  on 
which  she  had  so  madly  tempted  the  fates  ! 

Then  no  Dyak  will  touch  a  dead  bear,  as  if  a 


IN   THE    HEAD-HUNTING   COUNTRY       67 

spot  of  its  blood  happens  to  touch  them  they 
believe  they  at  once  go  mad. 

On  our  way  up  the  river  we  passed  the  haunted 
rock  Temagong,  outside  which  were  tied  various 
offerings,  and  our  boatmen  threw  water  to  appease 
the  spirits.  They  had  water  in  such  abundance 
all  round  them  that  I  can't  help  thinking  money, 
which  was  sometimes  thrown,  would  have  had  a 
more  pacifying  effect.  The  rock  is  said  to  have 
shut  down  on  two  brothers  who  once  went  to  visit 
it,  and  their  imprisoned  spirits  have  to  be  pro- 
pitiated, as  naturally  they  are  not  in  the  best  of 
tempers  at  the  extraordinary  way  they  were  treated 
when  in  the  flesh. 

At  one  place  where  we  were  staying,  one  of 
their  strongest  superstitions  was  to  do  with  pigs. 
One  of  the  Dyak's  wives  was  very  unhappy  because 
she  had  never  had  a  child,  but  one  day  when  she 
was  talking  to  me  about  it  she  suddenly  said, 
"  But  it  is  all  right  now,  my  husband  is  going  to 
buy  a  pig  !  "  Pigs  up  there  were  very  costly  and 
enormously  prized,  as,  unlike  the  river  tribes  who 
lived  further  down  and  the  head-hunting  tribes 
who  lived  further  up  the  river,  these  Dyaks 
never  kept  pigs,  and  every  one  they  had  was  im- 
ported with  a  great  deal  of  cost  and  trouble  ;  but 
what  that  had  to  do  with  having  a  child  I  couldn't 


68  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

imagine.  The  woman  had  perfect  faith,  though, 
that  her  husband,  having  once  promised  to  get 
one,  all  would  be  well.  She  pointed  to  another 
house  on  a  hill  near,  and  explained  to  me  that 
the  Dyak  living  there  had  never  had  a  child  till 
he  got  a  pig,  but  when  that  arrived  and  had  bef-'i 
killed  among  much  feasting  and  dancing,  ana 
part  of  it  made  into  a  lotion  with  water,  and  the 
rest  cooked  and  eaten,  a  child  soon  arrived.  I 
thought  at  first  I  couldn't  have  understood 
properly,  as  we  were  talking  an  extraordinary 
jargon  of  Malay  languages  ;  but  I  had,  and  I  only 
hope  that  the  pig  arrived  in  due  time,  and  that 
her  faith  was  not  in  vain. 


CHAPTER    VII 
ON   THE    KINABATANGAN 

THE  dug-out  native  boat  we  used,  after  leaving 
the  estates  and  all  ordinary  civilisation 
behind  us,  was  large  enough  to  take  us  all — 
Dyak  police,  boys,  and  boatmen,  and  we  had  a 
palm-leaf  roof  over  our  end  of  it  to  protect  us  from 
the  sun  and  rain  ;  but  we  were  very  careful  how  we 
got  in  and  out,  as  it  had  a  nasty  way  of  upsetting 
half  over,  which,  in  a  river  full  of  crocodiles 
thirsting  for  your  blood,  was  not  a  particularly 
pleasant  prospect. 

In  some  rivers  the  tribes  trap  and  eat  them,  and 
then  they  are  few  and  far  between.  They  have 
two  or  three  ways  of  catching  them.  One  way  is  by 
setting  strong  fishing -stake  traps  close  to  the 
shore,  which  the  crocodiles  stumble  into  at  night 
when  they  swim  along  the  edge  of  the  land  in 
quest  of  food,  and  then,  once  in  there,  where  they 
haven't  enough  space  to  swing  round  and  so  bring 
their  strength  to  bear,  they  are  easily  speared. 

69 


70  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

Another  way  of  catching  them  is  with  a  bait  of 
some  dead  high  animal,  bound  to  a  stake  with 
numerous  pieces  of  fishing-line  seven  or  eight  feet 
long  tied  all  along  it,  which  are  brought  together 
and  made  fast  to  the  end  of  a  rattan  sixty  to  eighty 
feet  long,  the  other  end  of  which  is  tied  to  a  float. 
The  bait  is  then  thrown  into  the  river  at  night 
time,  and  the  next  crocodile  passing  that  way  falls 
an  easy  prey.  He  seizes  it,  swims  off  a  little 
distance,  and  swallows  it  unsuspectingly.  The 
natives  then  next  morning  search  for  the  float  and 
get  firmly  hold  of  the  long  rattan,  and  make  for 
the  shore  with  all  speed,  hoping  to  get  to  land,  if 
possible,  before  the  crocodile  feels  anything,  as  if 
not  their  boat  might  be  upset.  With  a  sudden 
jerk,  they  try  to  get  the  swallowed  stake  right 
across  the  crocodile's  stomach,  and  then  they  begin 
to  haul,  and  if  the  brute  is  a  large  one  it  needs  a 
great  deal  of  playing  before  being  finally  landed. 
It  must  give  you  a  most  powerless  feeling  to  be 
dragged  along  by  a  rope  fastened  firmly  to  a  stake 
inside  you  ! 

In  the  Kinabatangan,  though,  they  are  never 
touched,  and  they  increase  in  number  and  size  at 
an  alarming  rate.  One  day  Dick  lassoed  the  tail  of 
a  small  one  about  fourteen  and  a  half  feet  long, 
which  was  apparently  asleep,  but  when  it  felt  the 


ON   THE    KINABATANGAN  71 

rope  it  started  the  most  wonderful  gymnastics,  rear- 
ing and  bounding  with  rage ;  but  the  natives  held  on 
splendidly  while  Dick  rushed  for  his  rifle,  and  for- 
tunately he  hit  it  in  the  eye  so  that  the  skin  was  not 
spoilt  at  all. 

It  was  quite  awful  the  number  of  natives  that 
were  taken  ;  they  were  carried  off  day  after  day. 
But  in  spite  of  all  their  bitter  experiences,  they 
seemed  incapable  of  taking  the  simplest  precau- 
tions. A  man's  brother  would  be  taken  one  night, 
his  father  the  next,  and  yet  on  the  third  he  would 
probably  be  found  bathing  again  in  the  same 
place  and  at  the  same  hour,  just  after  the  sun  had 
gone  down,  when  every  crocodile  is  awake  and 
looking  out  for  its  supper.  A  crocodile  swimming 
up-stream  with  a  man  in  its  mouth  was  not  an 
uncommon  sight.  I  remember  four  out  of  six 
Chinese,  just  opposite  to  where  we  were,  being 
taken  one  day  all '  at  once,  which  looked  like  a 
deliberate  concerted  attack  on  the  part  of  the 
crocodiles.  The  only  comfort  is  that  it  is  a  very 
quick  death  ;  it  is  really  only  the  quickest  form  of 
drowning.  They  don't  play  with  you  like  a  cat; 
they  just  hold  you  under  water  till  life  is  extinct, 
and  then  put  you  up  some  creek,  where  they  have 
the  self-control  to  leave  you  till  you  are  in  proper 
condition  for  their  dinner. 


72  AMONG   THF.    HF':AD-IIUNTERS 

There  was  great  feasting  one  day  in  one  of  the 
villages  as  a  crocodile  had  been  killed,  and  in  its 
inside  the  skull  and  oliier  bones  of  the  chief's 
brother-in-law,  who  had  disappeared  shortly  be- 
fore, had  been  found  and  brought  home  with  much 
music  and  dancing.  One  of  their  dances  con- 
sisted in  moving  round  a  pole,  women  in  one 
direction  and  men  in  another;  they  moved  quicker 
and  quicker,  till  they  all  fell  down  in  a  giddy  heap, 
a  form  of  amusement  which  I  should  have  thought 
would  have  palled  after  they  were  about  six  years 
old,  but  it  evidently  didn't. 

Crocodiles  have  a  nasty  plan  of  hiding  them- 
selves just  under  the  places  where  the  natives  get 
their  water.  One  day  a  man  just  got  away  in  time, 
but  the  brute  swallowed  his  bucket.  I  have  always 
wondered  whether  he  found  it  in  any  way  un- 
comfortable ;  an  iron  bucket  ivalking  about  in 
your  inside  can't  be  very  pleasant.  Another  day 
a  brilliantly  plucky  thing  was  done  by  a  young 
European  planter.  He  was  standing  near  the 
river  when  he  saw  a  crocodile  suddenly  grab  hold 
of  a  native's  leg  and  pull  him  under  the  water. 
He  rushed  down  and  sprang  in  right  on  the  top  of 
them  and  seized  hold  of  the  man.  A  desperate 
struggle  then  went  on,  but  he  managed  to  save  the 
man's  life,  as  just  as  he  was  getting  dreadfully 


ON   THE    KINABATANGAN  73 

exhausted,  the  unfortunate  leg  came  off,  and  the 
crocodile  went  off  apparently  satisfied.  It  was  a 
splendid  feat,  worthy  of  any  V.C.,  but  if  we 
hadn't  been  on  the  spot  just  then  we  should  never 
even  have  heard  of  it. 

In  uncivilised,  unknown  regions  of  the  world, 
like  the  interior  of  Borneo  and  the  West  African 
hinterland — both  of  which  I  can  speak  of  from  my 
own  experience,  having  spent  more  than  two  years 
in  Borneo  and  part  of  every  year  since  1900  in 
the  African  bush,  where  the  chances  of  death  are 
very  numerous,  and  white  men  few  and  far  be- 
tween— they  have  constant  opportunities  of  show- 
ing what  they  are  made  of,  they  themselves, 
without  that  restraining  but  often  cramping  force, 
public  opinion,  constant  chances  of  proving  them- 
selves cowards  or  heroes,  and  those  who  come  out 
best  are  those  whom  no  one  at  home  knows  any- 
thing about. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  unwritten  history  in 
these  out-of-the-way  places,  some  of  it  very  bad, 
as  there  are,  of  course,  men  who  in  times  of  danger 
are  found  hopelessly  wanting.  One  case  of 
cowardice  reaped  its  own  reward  most  speedily. 
Two  men  were  living  together  right  up  in  the  in- 
terior, and  when  one  of  them  was  very  ill  they 
were  attacked  by  some  ''unfriendlies."    There  was 


74  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

no  real  danger,  as  they  had  a  friendly  force  with 
them  and  plenty  of  ammunition ;  but  the  ill  man  got 
worse  and  worse,  and  the  other,  losing  every  bit 
of  pluck  and  nerve  he  had  ever  possessed,  deter- 
mined at  last  not  even  to  wait  to  see  his  friend 
die  ;  so  he  collected  all  the  food  and  ammunition 
and  men  he  could  (thirty  of  them  refused  to  leave 
the  dying  man),  and  marched  straight  down  to  the 
coast,  and  reported  the  death  of  his  friend  at  head- 
quarters. The  Governor  wound  up  his  affairs, 
and  had  his  things  taken  over  to  send  home,  when 
in  the  dead  man  walked  at  the  head  of  his  thirty 
men,  having  quieted  the  "  unfriendlies  "  without 
any  difficulty  before  starting. 

The  next  boat  took  one  man  away  for  ev^er.  He 
was  probably  too  constitutionally  timid  ever  to 
have  come  out,  but  such  cases  are  few  and  far 
between  compared  with  those  of  pluck  and  bravery 
and  devotion  of  which  no  one  at  home  ever  hears, 
but  which  are  going  on  every  day.  I  have  met 
very  nice  people  of  almost  every  nationality,  but 
every  year  I  live  I  am  more  thankful  to  have  t  en 
born  an  Englishwoman. 

Travelling  day  after  day  in  a  dug-out  boat  is  not 
the  acme  of  comfort,  but  we  could  tie  up  at  the 
side  at  night,  and  have  a  rough  shed  made  to 
sleep  in  if  we  liked  ;  and  the  *'boys"  always  made 


ON   THE   KINABATANGAN  75 

a  rough  bed  about  a  yard  from  the  ground,  on 
which  we  put  an  old  mattress,  without  which  we 
never  travelled,  so  that  although  our  bed  was  not 
exactly  a  spring  one,  it  didn't  prevent  our  sleep- 
ing. We  slept  really  as  well  out  there,  surrounded 
by  every  beast  and  reptile,  as  we  do  at  home. 
Dangers,  when  you  are  in  the  midst  of  them,  lose 
their  terror  in  the  most  extraordinary  way,  and  no 
one  who  has  ever  spent  their  nights  in  dense 
jungle  right  away  from  all  the  haunts  of  man 
can  fail  to  be  impressed. 

The  whirring  song  of  millions  of  cicadas  which 
suddenly  breaks  out  from  every  tree  at  sunset,  and 
which  as  suddenly  stops,  leaving  a  strange  lull 
behind  it;  the  cries  of  the  different  wild  beasts  out 
in  search  of  their  prey,  and  from  time  to  time  the 
blood-curdling  shriek  of  their  victims,  showing 
that  their  quest  has  not  been  in  vain,  all  blend 
together  in  that  intense  "noisy  stillness"  which 
once  heard  can  never  be  forgotten. 

That  great  black  vastness  full  of  life  and  death 
fills  you  with  awe,  but  with  wonder  too  that  it 
should  be  possible  to  lie  there  in  the  midst  of  it 
quite  safe,  your  only  covering  and  protection  a 
palm-leaf  roof  and  a  mosquito  curtain  ;  and  even 
when  one  of  those  awful  tropical  thunderstorms 
came  crashing  down,  deafening  you  with  its  roar 


76  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

and  tearing  its  way  through  the  clouds  like  the 
report  of  thousands  of  Maxim  guns  all  going  off  at 
once,  and  the  lightning  played  over  your  head 
and  ran  along  the  ground  blinding  in  its  brilliance, 
flash  after  flash  following  one  another  with  such 
rapidity  as  to  make  you  only  conscious  of  one  con- 
tinuous blaze  of  light,  there  you  may  be  quite  safe. 
And  now  and  then  you  heard  another  sound,  and 
involuntarily  held  your  breath  as  some  grand  tree, 
a  monarch  of  the  jungle  in  all  its  beauty  and 
strength,  came  thundering  down — the  work,  the 
growth,  the  life  of  hundreds  of  years  all  over  in  a 
few  seconds. 

We  only  met  one  European  after  the  tobacco 
estates,  a  great  friend  of  ours  who  was  camped  out 
in  the  jungle  surveying  ;  and  though  we  had  only 
started  a  few  days  before,  and  had  to  get  ac- 
customed to  doing  without  bread  for  a  long  time, 
we  were  already  very  tired  of  having  none,  and 
were  delighted  when  Mr.  Pavitt  offered  to  show  us 
how  to  make  "most  excellent  Australian  dampers." 
He  said  he  could  show  us  in  a  very  few  minutes, 
and  he  did.  I  will  give  the  recipe  in  case  anyone 
should  like  to  try  it.  It  was  very  simple,  just  flour 
and  water  and  a  little  baking-powder  in  an  open 
pan  over  the  fire.  I  felt  just  a  little  sceptical — 
baking-powder  and  an  open  pan  ;  but  Mr,  Pavitt 


ON   THE   KINABATANGAN  77 

was  quite  confident  of  the  result,  which  was,  as  no 
cook  will  be  surprised  to  hear,  lumps  of  uneatable 
lead  !  We  were  very  grateful,  and  did  our  best  to 
eat  some  of  it,  only  after  dinner,  when  we  left  him 
to  go  on  with  our  journey  up  the  river,  there  was 
almost  too  much  unselfishness  to  be  quite  genuine, 
shown  on  both  sides,  as  to  how  much  we  should 
carry  on  with  us,  and  how  much  leave  in  the 
camp  ! 

We  hadn't  much  shooting,  but  we  were  able  to 
get  a  few  jungle  fowl  and  pigeons,  and  now  and 
then  a  little  venison,  which  were  very  welcome 
additions  to  our  food.  We  passed  perfect  places 
for  deer,  lovely  grassy  banks  which  looked  most 
inviting,  but  we  had  no  time  to  stay  anywhere 
long.  We  always  made  a  point  of  getting  fruit  from 
one  or  other  of  the  villages  we  passed  ;  bananas 
and  papyas  we  could  get  practically  everywhere. 
Rice  had  to  take  the  place  of  bread,  and  the  sight 
of  a  plate  of  rice  in  the  early  morning,  when  you 
first  woke  up,  if  you  were  feeling  rather  seedy, 
was  enough  to  cure  anyone  of  it  for  ever.  My 
bath  I  had  generally  in  the  jungle  just  before 
dark,  but  bathing  in  the  tropics  out  of  doors  is 
often  attended  by  slight  drawbacks.  I  sometimes 
found  afterwards  enormous  leeches  like  big  black 
slugs  sticking  to  me  all  swollen  with  my  blood. 


78  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

One  night  we  came  to  a  lovely  sandy  river  which 
looked  very  inviting,  and  as  the  people  told  us  no 
crocodiles  ever  came  up  there,  in  we  dived,  just  at 
sunset,  the  very  worst  time  if  any  of  those  crea- 
tures are  about.  The  people  had  made  just  a  little 
mistake  which  might  have  cost  us  our  lives,  as  the 
brutes  were  there  ;  but  happily  for  us  they  hadn't 
been  particularly  hungry,  and  we  were  safe  on 
shore  before  we  knew  the  danger  we  had  run.  A 
very  special  Providence  was  certainly  watching 
over  us.  We  often  slept  in  our  boat  in  order  to 
save  time.  The  river  never  looked  more  beautiful 
than  on  the  nights  when  the  moon  rose  behind  the 
jungle  trees,  and  shining  through  the  soft  mist 
which  was  hanging  over  the  water,  turned  it  into 
a  rippling  silver  sea,  and  the  beauty  and  pic- 
turesqueness  of  it  all  was  not  lessened  by  log  fires 
on  the  bank,  round  which  we  could  see  the  dusky 
forms  of  our  men  as  they  slept  or  cooked  their 
evening  meal.  The  river  on  an  evening  like  that 
looked  very  different  from  when  it  was  in  flood, 
the  one  phase  of  its  existence  all  peace  and  beauty, 
the  other  all  turbulence  and  rage. 

In  thirty  minutes  it  would  rise  six  to  ten  feet, 
I  wonder  whether  anyone  who  hasn't  seen  it  can 
realise  what  that  means.  The  rain  may  only  be 
going   on    miles   away,    but   suddenly   the   water 


ON   THE    KINABATANGAN  79 

begins  to  swell,  and  the  little  tributaries  turn  from 
sluggish  streams  into  roaring  rivers,  and  the  river 
itself  into  a  surging  torrent,  which  rolls  down 
towards  the  sea  with  an  overwhelming  relentless 
force,  carrying  everything  before  it.  Huge  jungle 
trees  are  swept  off  the  bank  and  flash  past  you 
one  after  another  in  their  desperate  race  for  the 
ocean,  and  every  few  minutes  of  rain  increases 
the  mad  swirl  of  the  flood  as  it  goes  thundering 
along,  sucking  down  everything  into  its  seething, 
foaming  waters. 

We  once  in  an  unwise  moment,  when  we  were 
in  a  great  hurry  to  get  on,  tried  to  work  our  way 
against  a  slight  flood.  It  was  horrible,  and  just 
like  a  nightmare,  as  with  everyone  working  their 
hardest  we  made  no  single  step  forward,  and  we 
were  only  too  thankful  to  find  ourselves  back  on 
land  again,  wiser  if  not  sadder  men. 

There  wasn't  any  room  to  turn  in  our  canoe, 
but  it  was  long  enough,  which  was  a  comfort, 
and  when  we  were  well  it  was  quite  bearable  ; 
but  once  or  twice  I  was  very  ill,  and  then  I 
would  have  given  all  I  possessed  for  a  bed. 
The  mosquitoes  in  one  place  we  stayed  were  of  a 
very  virulent,  poisonous  type.  They  simply  gave 
us  no  peace,  and  I  unfortunately  tried  to  combine 
curing  a  wild  cat's  skin,  and  scratching  my  bites. 
The  result  was  bad  blood  poisoning. 


8o  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

Dick  did  everything  he  could  to  make  things 
bearable  for  me,  but  we  were  stranded  with  no 
doctor  within  weeks  of  us. 

We  made  for  Penungah,  the  furthest  Govern- 
ment station,  where  Dick  knew  there  was  a 
properly  built  little  wooden  bungalow.  It  was 
only  two  days  away,  but  those  two  days  seemed 
interminable.  I  thought  they  would  never  be  over. 
I  was  very  ill,  and  getting  worse  and  worse,  and 
neither  travelling  in  a  small  canoe  by  water  nor 
on  foot  by  land  improved  matters.  I  shall  never 
forget  the  relief  of  actually  getting  to  Penungah 
and  being  carried  up  to  comparative  coolness  and 
quiet,  with  room  to  move  and  groan  as  I  liked. 

I  was  a  poisonous  sight,  and  I  felt  even  worse 
than  I  looked — which  is  saying  a  great  deal  ! 

I  was  ill  for  several  weeks,  but  anything  seemed 
bearable  after  those  first  few  days  of  incessant 
movement.  The  only  medicine  I  had  was  a  little 
lime  given  me  by  the  natives  to  bathe  with.  They 
made  it  out  of  shells  from  the  river-bed,  and  they 
always  used  it  themselves  to  chew  with  betel  nut. 
Dick  was  able  to  be  with  me  at  night,  and  in  the 
daytime  a  Chinaman  and  a  Malay  boy  divided  the 
honour  of  taking  care  of  me. 

We  got  very  few  mails,  but  I  remember  waking 
up  the  Christmas  Day  we  were  up  there  to  find 


ON   THE    KINABATANGAN  8i 

several  weeks'  mails  on  a  chair  just  outside  my 
mosquito  curtain.  It  gave  me  the  most  Christ- 
massy feeling  I  have  ever  had.  The  only  other 
thing  that  same  day  which  sticks  in  my  mind  is 
Dick  making  mince-pies  for  a  surprise  for  me. 

To  begin  with,  I  have  never  cared  for  them, 
and  they  are  just  the  very  food  you  would  avoid 
for  an  invalid,  and  there  were  such  unsurmountable 
difficulties  in  the  way  of  pastry  making;  but  these 
objections  only  fired  Dick  the  more,  and  after  a 
great  many  preparations  and  a  great  deal  of 
yelling  at  the  "  boys"  he  got  fairly  started  with  a 
tin  of  mince-meat,  another  of  butter,  and  some 
flour,  and  for  rolling-pin  and  board  a  round  tin 
and  a  box. 

I,  of  course,  heard  nothing  ;  only  a  few  thin 
planks  about  seven  feet  high  and  open  at  the  top 
divided  us,  and  never  was  there  such  good  will 
and  such  energy  put  into  pastry— of  that  I  am 
certain. 

The  noise  was  deafening,  as  the  pastry 
evidently  wouldn't  roll,  and  Dick,  determined 
not  to  be  outdone,  started  to  hammer  it  out,  and 
I  won't  say  where  I  wished  every  mince-pie  which 
had  ever  been  made  long  before  these  resounding 
bangs  stopped,  as  I  wouldn't  hurt  Dick's  feelings 
for  worlds.     I  couldn't  help  almost  sobbing  with 


82  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

laughter  in  spite  of  the  pain.  At  last  it  was  over 
though,  and  quiet  reigned  again  till  dinner  time, 
when  in  came  Dick's  Christmas  present  to  me, 
the  most  extraordinary  shaped  little  pies  you  have 
ever  seen,  rather  like  screwed-up  bags.  They 
had  been  cooked  in  a  saucepan,  and  anyone  can 
guess  what  they  were  like  to  eat;  but  the  strangest 
part  of  it  all  is  they  would  guess  quite  wrong. 
Nothing  could  have  been  crisper  or  lighter,  prov- 
ing for  ever  the  fallacy  that  a  light  hand  is 
necessary  if  pastry  is  to  be  a  success.  After  what 
I  had  heard  they  certainly  were  a  more  wonderful 
surprise  to  me  than  Dick  had  even  meant  them  to 
be,  and  he  was  delighted. 

He  had  done  his  best  to  get  me  a  turkey  too, 
but  had  failed.  He  occasionally  brought  in  game, 
but  the  shyness  of  the  pheasants  (many  of  them 
beautiful  fire-backs)  and  the  closeness  of  the  jungle 
round  Penungah  made  shooting  difficult.  Our 
men  sometimes  trapped  animals  for  us ;  they 
brought  in  several  wild  cats  ;  one  poor  thing,  in 
its  rage  at  being  caught,  bit  its  paw  off  in  order 
to  free  itself,  but  in  its  fury  it  got  muddled,  and 
bit  it  off  below  the  string  which  held  it  instead  of 
above. 


CHAPTER   VIII 
WE    GIVE    A    BALL 

WHEN  I  was  well  enough,  which  wasn't  for 
some  time,  as  I  got  about  too  soon  and 
made  myself  ill  again,  we  gave  a  large  dance  to 
all  the  country  round.  The  preparations  for  it 
were  very  simple,  as,  except  pengasi — a  strong 
native  spirit  made  from  rice,  with  a  few  other 
little  ingredients  thrown  in,  which  one  of  the 
Dyak's  wives  made  for  us  a  fortnight  before — we 
had  nothing  to  get  ready  but  bananas,  rice,  sweet 
potatoes,  and  plenty  of  coarse  tob.acco. 

The  day  came,  and  our  guests  were  invited  at 
9  p.m.,  but  before  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
canoes  began  to  arrive  from  all  parts,  and  the 
people  came  swarming  up  the  hill  and  into  the 
room  where  I  was  resting  exactly  six  hours  before 
we  expected  or  wanted  them,  but  Dick,  with  the 
aid  of  a  kodak,  in  which  they  were  very  much 
interested,  soon  got  rid  of  them.  They  are  very 
inquisitive,  so  when  they  saw  him  with  something 

83 


84  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

they  didn't  understand  they  all  trooped  out  to  look, 
and  Dick  at  once  led  them  right  down  the  hill 
again,  where  he  explained  to  the  Dyaks  we 
shouldn't  be  ready  for  them  till  nine  o'clock. 

We  were  then  left  in  peace  till  we  sent  down  to 
say  we  were  ready  for  them.  Our  dressing  didn't 
take  us  long,  as  I  wore  a  white  dressing-gown  and 
Dick  something  equally  ball-like.  Our  guests 
came  rushing  in  one  after  another  ;  none  of  them 
saying  **How  d'you  do"  ;  they  just  squatted  down 
all  round  us,  all  of  them,  contrary  to  their  usual 
custom,  more  or  less  clothed.  Some  of  them 
wore  the  most  wonderfully  elaborate  sarongs 
worked  in  gold,  and  many  of  them  would  have 
been  very  good  looking,  only  bright  crimson  teeth 
and  mouths  are  disfiguring  to  anyone,  and  they 
had  ruined  their  otherwise  beautiful  ivory  teeth 
with  betel-nut  juice.  They  chew  betel-nut  and 
lime  from  morning  till  night.  They  offered  me 
some,  which  I  of  course  accepted,  and  we  chewed 
solemnly  opposite  each  other  till  I  found  a  con- 
venient moment  for  throwing  mine  away  without 
hurting  their  feelings.  I  think  the  sight  of  a 
white  woman  formed  an  epoch  in  their  lives  from 
which  everything  before  and  after  would  date. 
I  felt  a  cross  between  royalty  and  the  latest  addi- 
tion at  the  Zoo.     The  excitement  was  intense,  as 


WE   GIVE   A   BALL  85 

their  wildest  imaginations  had  evidently  never 
pictured  anything  quite  so  extraordinary.  They 
simply  drank  me  in.  At  last,  to  vary  the  mono- 
tony, we  told  one  of  our  Dyak  police  they  might 
dance,  but  they  didn't  seem  in  the  least  interested 
when  he  explained  to  them  what  we  had  said  ; 
they  neither  moved  nor  spoke,  and  for  a  long  time 
their  eyes  were  literally  glued  to  me.  We  were 
glad  when  they  begged  us  to  come  and  start  the 
pengasi  drinking,  as  the  Dyaks  explained  to  us 
they  could  never  dance  till  they  felt  a  little  merry, 
and  judging  by  their  faces  merriment  was  very 
far  off  just  then  !  The  pengasi  was  standing  in 
a  huge  stone  jar,  and  I  was  given  a  large  bamboo 
to  draw  it  up  with.  It  was  very  good,  and  the 
more  you  drink  the  grander  you  are  supposed  to 
be,  and  I  was  anxious  to  impress  my  large 
audience  ;  but  it  was  very  strong,  so  I  tried  to 
take  them  in  by  keeping  my  mouth  fixed  to  the 
bamboo  and  swallowing  from  time  to  time  with- 
out really  taking  anything.  I  found  afterwards 
I  had  deceived  no  one,  which  was  most  dis- 
appointing. 

They  had  been  watching  for  the  spirit  to  sink, 
and  I,  of  course,  had  never  dreamt  of  such  a  possi- 
bility. When  the  first  Dyak  started,  however, 
I    soon    found   how   more  than    possible    it   was. 


86  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

Where  there  was  room  for  it  all  I  don't  know,  and 
at  last  he  evidently  didn't  know  either.  He 
stopped,  and  apologised  to  me  for  not  being  able 
to  take  any  more.  He  spoke  in  Malay,  but  the 
literal  translation  was,  "My  head  can  still  stand 
more,  but  my  stomach  can't."  It  was  funny 
having  to  comfort  anyone  for  anything  quite  so 
sad,  but  I  tried  to  murmur  something  suitable 
to  the  occasion,  and  to  assure  him  he  had  done 
quite  splendidly,  and  I  think  he  went  away 
happier. 

But  still  no  dancing  !  Our  part  of  the  enter- 
tainment, doing  nothing,  was  certainly  not  diffi- 
cult, but  it  began  to  pall  dreadfully,  and  we  were 
wondering  what  on  earth  to  do  next  to  make 
things  go,  when  a  man,  without  uttering  a  sound, 
suddenly  got  up  and  began  pacing  slowly  round 
in  a  circle;  then  another  followed  him,  and  another, 
till  there  were  I  don't  know  how  many  men  follow- 
ing each  other  in  grave  silence,  all  looking  more 
solemn  than  the  one  in  front  of  them. 

Then  the  women  joined  in,  one  at  a  time,  too, 
but  the  moment  the  first  woman  arrived  they 
turned  round,  and  starting  a  weird  chant,  took 
arms  in  a  ring — a  ring  they  never  broke,  except 
to  let  a  single  person  in  or  out,  till  six  the  next 
morning.     Their   dance   was  a   kind   of  see-saw 


WE   GIVE   A    BALL  87 

goose  step  backwards  and  forwards,  backwards 
and  forwards,  and  those  looking  on,  as  well  as  the 
dancers  themselves,  accompanied  the  monotonous 
swing  of  their  bodies  with  a  long-drawn-out, 
wailing  funeral  dirge,  broken  occasionally  by  a 
flourishing  recitative  from  some  woman  ;  but  the 
men  never  varied  their  drone  the  whole  night 
through,  and  their  wide-open  mouths  and  tragical 
faces  looked  much  more  like  enforced  hard  labour, 
or  a  funeral,  than  any  form  of  amusement.  Dick 
and  I  joined  them  for  a  few  minutes,  which 
pleased  them  enormously  ;  but  the  sight  of  Dick, 
intensely  solemn,  swinging  backwards  and  for- 
wards in  the  middle  of  those  little  men  who  were 
trying  their  best  to  hold  on  to  his  arms,  when 
their  heads  only  came  just  above  his  elbows,  was 
very  funny. 

After  a  few  hours  we  were  so  wearied,  and  our 
guests  seemed  so  wholly  satisfied,  that  we  made 
the  Dyaks  responsible,  and  went  to  bed.  I  can't 
say  we  slept  much,  and  when  we  went  back  at 
about  5  a.m.  the  same  dance  and  the  same  droning 
was  still  going  on,  but  I  never  saw  such  a  wreck 
of  a  feast.  Many  of  them  by  that  time  were  so 
overcome  with  weariness,  and  perhaps  a  little 
more  drink  than  was  good  for  them,  that  being 
linked  together  was  really  the  only  thing  that  kept 
them  going. 


88  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

Between  6  and  6.30  they  broke  up,  and  went 
off  helter-skelter,  only  three  or  four  of  the  whole 
company  thinking  it  necessary  to  say  good-bye. 
I  believe  they  had  enjoyed  themselves  enor- 
mously, and  that  they  look  upon  that  night  as  the 
one  in  their  lifetime  from  which  everything  dates. 
It  seems  almost  impossible  it  should  be  so,  for 
though  natives  hide  all  emotion,  they  were  almost 
too  successful  in  the  way  they  hid  any  sign  of 
pleasure  that  night.  But  we  were  delighted  to 
hear  it  was  such  a  success. 

Some  of  the  women  came  up  from  time  to  time 
to  have  a  talk  with  me,  and  my  not  being  able  to 
understand  didn't  seem  to  spoil  their  enjoyment  in 
the  least.  Any  third  person  looking  on  would 
have  thought  we  were  having  a  most  brilliant  con- 
versation. I  think  the  natives  must  have  thought 
that  I  could  understand  everything,  only  that  I  had 
a  muddling  way  of  explaining  myself.  Anyway, 
we  made  great  friends  over  it,  and  it  was  quite  im- 
possible for  us  ever  to  hurt  each  other's  feelings, 
which  was  a  comfort. 


CHAPTER    IX 
A   MURDER   CASE 

AFTER  the  ball  our  life  passed  fairly  smoothly, 
-  till  one  day  the  news  was  brought  to  us  of  a 
murder  up  in  the  head-hunting  country  two  or 
three  days  further  up  in  the  interior  than  Pe- 
nungah. 

Two  Sulu  traders  had  been  found  speared  in  the 
back,  evidently  when  they  were  asleep,  and  the 
head  of  one  was  missing,  which  looked  like  head- 
hunters,  but  if  so,  why  hadn't  they  taken  both 
heads? 

We  started  at  once  for  the  place,  but  part  of  the 
river  was  unnavigable,  and  the  canoes  we  had  to 
use  were  so  small  that  Dick  and  I  couldn't  go  to- 
gether, so  I  went  on  in  front  in  a  little  cockle-shell 
of  a  boat  with  two  Dyak  boatmen. 

It  was  grand  scenery  ;  each  bend  in  the  river 
brought  a  new  vision  of  beauty.  Luxuriant  creepers 
of  every  kind  falling  with  their  own  special  grace 
from  trees  a  hundred  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 


go  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

height,  right  down  to  the  water's  edge,  with  here 
and  there  great  waterfalls  of  crimson  or  purple 
flowers,  a  magnificent  blaze  of  colour  shown  off  to 
perfection  by  the  beautiful  green  background. 
However,  our  time  wasn't  by  any  means  all  spent 
in  admiring  the  view.  We  had  rapids  to  get  up, 
some  of  which  were  anything  but  easy,  and  in  one 
place  we  suddenly  swamped. 

The  Dyaks  happily  kept  their  heads,  and,  almost 
before  I  had  realised  what  had  happened,  hauled 
me  up  on  to  a  rock  which  was  sticking  out  of  the 
water  near.  We  were  all,  of  course,  soaked 
through,  but  the  men  wore  too  little  for  that  to 
make  much  difference.  The  whole  thing  seemed 
anyway  to  have  a  very  cheering  effect  on  them, 
and  I  wasn't  sorry  to  be  safe.  Directly  we  had 
righted  the  boat,  on  w^e  went  again.  The  whole 
thing  was  over  so  quickly  that  Dick  and  his  men 
had  no  idea  we  had  capsized  till  we  stopped,  much 
later  in  the  day,  and  by  that  time  I  was  nearly  dry 
again. 

Our  journey  was  quite  fruitless,  as  when  we  got 
up  to  the  scene  of  the  murder  we  could  find  out 
absolutely  nothing  but  what  we  already  knew. 

Dick  did  all  he  could,  but  we  had  no  Sherlock 
Holmes  with  us,  and  we  had  to  go  back  to  Pe- 
nungah  again  without  having  found  the  faintest 
clue  to  the  murderers. 


A   MURDER    CASE  91 

A  few  days  afterwards,  however,  two  of  our 
Dyak  police  came  in  to  say  that  the  water,  which 
had  been  very  much  swollen,  had  gone  down,  and 
that  the  spears  of  two  men,  who  were  known  to 
have  bought  them  the  morning  of  the  very  day  the 
murder  took  place,  had  been  found  in  the  river, 
close  to  where  the  murdered  men  had  been  dis- 
covered. Dick  then  found  out  that  the  owners  of 
the  spears  had  lately  been  staying  in  a  little  village 
not  far  down  the  river,  and  sent  to  have  them 
arrested  at  once. 

The  police  found  them  where  they  were  sup- 
posed to  be,  and  brought  them  straight  back  to 
Penungah  that  same  night.  The  next  morning 
they  were  brought  up  before  Dick,  as  low  a  type 
of  man  as  could  be  found  anywhere.  They  cer- 
tainly didn't  look  as  if  they  were  strangers  to  any 
cowardly  crime,  and  when  they  were  told  what 
they  were  charged  with  they  said  nothing. 

Dick  had  to  arrange  at  once  to  go  back  into  the 
head-hunting  country  for  the  trial,  but  that  very 
day  one  of  the  prisoners  escaped.  His  handcuffs 
had  been  taken  off  in  order  to  make  it  possible 
for  him  to  carry  water  from  the  river  up  to  our 
house  on  the  hill,  the  only  form  of  work  there  was 
for  them  to  do,  and  just  when  he  and  his  guard 
had  got  up  to  the  kitchen,  which  was  not  more 


92  AMONG   TME    HEAD-HUNTERS 

than  twenty  yards  from  the  back  of  the  house,  we 
suddenly  heard  a  loud  shout  and  the  report  of  a 
gun.  Dick  seized  his  revolver  and  flew,  but  only 
to  find  the  man  had  already  disappeared  into  the 
jungle.  The  sentry  had  evidently  not  been  as  near 
as  he  ought  to  have  been,  and  had,  we  thought, 
only  fired  wildly  into  the  air  after  his  prisoner  in 
order  to  give  an  audible  proof  that  he  was  doing 
his  duty.  He,  of  course,  swore  that  he  was  stand- 
ing quite  close,  but  the  only  witness,  one  of  our 
boys  who  was  cowering  over  the  fire  with  a  bad 
attack  of  malaria,  gave  a  very  different  account. 

Anyway,  the  prisoner  had  gone,  and  the  greatest 
terror  prevailed,  as  out  in  the  Far  East  when  a 
man  sees  that  he  is  known  to  have  committed  one 
murder,  he  feels  he  can  be  in  no  worse  plight,  and 
so  often  goes  amok,  and  rushes  off  in  a  frenzy 
like  a  madman,  wounding  and,  if  possible,  killing 
everyone  he  meets. 

Some  people  think  this  madness  is  real,  but  if 
so  there  is  certainly  a  very  wonderful  method  in 
it,  as  the  natives  always  go  amok  when  they  have 
nothing  more  to  lose,  and  start  by  killing  those 
against  whom  they  or  their  family  have  any 
grudge. 

A  very  nice  German  lady  we  stayed  with  on  one 
of  the   tobacco   estates  was    nearly    killed  in  this 


A   MURDER   CASE  93 

way  by  one  of  their  coolies.  He  crept  in  one 
morning  when  she  was  doing  her  hair,  and  she 
had  just  seen  him  in  the  glass  and  was  turning 
round  to  send  him  away,  when  with  one  blow  of 
his  knife  he  cut  off  the  lower  part  of  her  ear  and 
smashed  her  jaw. 

She  saw  him  raise  his  arm  and  gave  a  scream, 
but  knew  nothing  more.  Her  husband  had  just 
gone  to  have  his  bath,  and  the  bath-rooms  on  the 
estates  were  quite  separate  from  the  house,  but  he 
fortunately  heard  her  scream  and  rushed  in  just  in 
time  to  give  the  alarm  about  the  man  and  save  his 
wife's  life.  He  found  her  quite  unconscious,  and 
she  was  dangerously  ill  for  a  long  time,  but 
eventually  she  recovered. 

The  people  at  Penungah  were  therefore  very 
much  afraid  that  the  escaped  prisoner  would  go 
amok  too,  and  they  explained  quickly  to  Dick 
that  as  that  part  of  the  jungle  where  we  were  was 
completely  surrounded  by  rivers,  and  there  were 
only  three  fords  by  which  he  could  possibly 
escape,  he  was  quite  certain  to  make  for  one  of 
them,  and  there  was  no  time  to  be  lost. 

Four  out  of  the  six  police  were  away,  so  Dick 
had  to  go  himself  to  the  one  ford,  leaving  me 
sentry  over  the  other  prisoner,  as  the  people  down 
in  the  village  were  in  such  a  state  of  panic  that 


94  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

they  didn't  dare  to  have  him  left  anywhere  near 
them.  Dick  hated  leaving  me,  but  there  was 
nothing  else  to  be  done,  and  I  didn't  mind  in  the 
least. 

I  only  hoped  I  shouldn't  have  to  use  my  gun,  as 
I  didn't  realise  I  should  probably  have  killed  him 
straight  away.  I  only  thought  I  should  probably 
wound  him  badly,  and  then  have  to  look  after  his 
wounds,  which  I  was  most  anxious  to  avoid  ;  I 
loaded  it  therefore  very  deliberately  in  front  of 
him,  so  that  he  would  see  that  although  I  was  a 
woman,  the  cartridges  were  real,  and  that  I  knew 
how  to  use  them  ;  and  then  I  sat  down  at  a  table  a 
few  yards  from  him  to  write  my  letters,  but  I  didn't 
get  on  very  fast,  as  I  kept,  of  course,  the  tail  of 
my  eye  always  on  him. 

At  first  he  was  simply  too  astonished  and  creepy 
to  move,  but  gradually  he  recovered  and  asked  me 
in  Malay  who  was  guarding  him?  I  looked  very 
sternly  at  him  and  told  him  I  was,  which  he  didn't 
understand  at  all.  But  he  soon  began  to  talk 
again,  and  tried  to  induce  me  to  let  him  go,  but  he 
gradually  subsided  into  silence  when  he  found  I 
never  answered.  He  next  hoped  to  catch  me 
napping,  and  began  to  attempt  two  or  three  times 
to  get  away,  but  directly  I  touched  my  gun  and 
looked  at  him  fixedly  he  was  quiet,  and  Dick  came 


A   MURDER   CASE  95 

back  to  me  as  soon  as  he  had  made  sure  of  his 
ford. 

They  couldn't  find  the  escaped  man,  and  panic 
spread  up  the  river  to  such  an  extent  that  a  whole 
village  moved  down  to  be  near  to  us.  The  natives 
seem  to  feel  that  such  a  divinity  surrounds  a  white 
man  that  to  be  within  reach  of  even  the  rays  of 
his  halo  protects  them. 

In  the  daytime  I  felt  equal  to  any  amount  of 
murderers — I  hadn't  a  qualm  ;  but  at  night  it 
certainly  was  rather  dreadful  to  have  to  go  to  bed 
in  an  open  house — there  was  no  means  of  locking 
or  even  shutting  up — with  an  escaped  murderer 
roaming  round,   perhaps  quite  close. 

A  loaded  revolver  was  certainly  helpful,  but  it 
couldn't  quite  drown  the  dread  of  a  madman  with 
a  spear  suddenly  leaping  out  of  the  darkness. 

Dick  always  pretends  not  to  know  what  nerves 
are,  which  on  this  occasion  was  comforting,  and 
we  certainly  got  through  the  night  without  any 
untoward  adventure. 

Next  day  we  had  to  leave  the  poor  terrified 
people  who  had  come  flocking  down  the  river,  and 
go  back  to  the  Murut  country  to  the  scene  of  the 
murder. 

There  are  several  tribes  of  these  head-hunters, 
but  we  only  stayed  with  two,  the  Romanows  and 


96  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

Tengaras,  which  resemble  one  another  so  closely 
that  you  can't  describe  one  without  describing  the 
other.  No  one  seems  to  know  where  they  origin- 
ally sprang  from,  but  they  are  a  much  finer  race 
than  the  ordinary  Malay  tribes,  and  quite  a 
different  type  from  the  Dyaks  ;  and  putting  aside 
their  extraordinary  predilection  for  heads,  which 
certainly  is  a  very  unfortunate  taste,  and  one  that 
leads  to  very  serious  consequences,  their  lives 
seemed  to  us  very  well-ordered  and  peaceable. 

This  second  time  we  managed  to  get  up  the 
rapids  without  being  swamped,  and  we  were  evi- 
dently expected,  as  before  we  had  quite  reached 
our  destination  we  caught  sight  of  several  naked 
forms  who  had  evidently  been  on  the  look-out  for 
us,  rushing  away  through  the  trees  to  give  notice 
to  their  different  villages,  and  very  soon  after  we 
had  landed  the  chiefs  came  down  to  welcome  us, 
and  to  guide  us  to  their  houses,  which  they  build 
right  back  in  the  jungle,  and  not  as  the  river 
tribes  by  the  water. 

Without  guides  we  couldn't  possibly  have  found 
our  way.  It  is  often  very  difficult  in  jungle  travel- 
ling to  tell  where  the  path  really  is.  The  natives 
have  a  way  of  marking  it  by  bending  down  or 
snapping  little  twigs  as  they  pass.  In  this  way  they 
follow  each  other  through  the  densest  jungle  with- 


J  < 

^  o 

•::;   Id 


O    J 

^  O 


5  '-^ 
Z  O 

D  o 


o  s 


<  a 
5  < 


<  > 


^  a 


A   MURDER   CASE  97 

out  the  least  difficulty,  and  through  places  where 
to  our  unpractised  eye  there  seems  absolutely  no 
trace  of  anyone  having  been  before.  Even  on  the 
paths  which  are  more  or  less  worn,  travelling  is 
not  easy,  and  any  dreaming  has  a  rude  and  speedy 
awakening,  as  there  are  constant  invisible  spikes 
and  stumps  and  loops  of  creepers  and  roots  of 
all  kinds  sticking  out  everywhere,  as  if  their  one 
object  was  to  trip  you  up.  How  the  men  manage 
at  all  with  their  bare  feet  is  difficult  to  understand, 
and  every  few  hundred  yards  an  old  tree  trunk  lies 
right  across  your  path,  which  has  to  be  scrambled 
over  somehow. 

The  Muruts  are  always  moving  on,  so  they 
never  spend  much  time  on  their  roads,  and  they 
are  not  keen  to  make  the  paths  leading  to  their 
homes  too  clear  for  other  tribes.  They  wish  them 
to  be  mazes,  and  from  what  we  saw  of  them  they 
certainly  are  ! 

The  jungle  is  very  grand.  We  used  sometimes 
to  find  ourselves  at  the  entrance  of  the  most  glori- 
ous grassy  glades,  more  beautiful  perhaps  in  their 
way  than  anything  we  have  ever  seen.  Far,  far 
above  our  heads,  a  ceiling  of  interlaced  branches 
with  wonderful  creepers  of  every  kind  falling  down 
from  it,  many  of  them  right  to  our  feet.  They 
grow  with  a  luxuriant  abandon  and  beauty  which 


98  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

can  only  be  seen  to  perfection  in  tropical  virgin 
jungle,  the  trunks  of  the  trees  almost  hidden  with 
feathery  graceful  ferns,  hanging  one  above  the 
other,  a  cascade  of  loveliness  ;  fronds  of  maiden- 
hair, measuring  feet  instead  of  inches,  and  other 
beautiful  plants  found  in  miniature  in  our  hot- 
houses at  home,  flourish  there  on  the  same  scale. 

The  awful  part  of  it  was  that  we  could  only 
enjoy  it  all  for  such  a  very  few  minutes.  There  it 
was  always,  and  as  we  stood  gazing  and  wondering 
at  every  fresh  vision  of  enchanting  beauty,  it  was 
pain  to  feel  that  we  could  neither  take  it  with  us 
nor  show  it  to  those  we  loved  best  in  the  world, 
and  also  that  in  all  human  probability  we  should 
never  see  that  special  spot,  that  special  glade  we 
were  revelling  in,  again. 

When  the  Creator  is  tired  of  looking  at  us  and 
what  we  have  made  ourselves,  it  must  be  wonder- 
fully restful  to  Him  to  look  down  on  such  a  scene, 
and  He  must  feel  again  and  again  that  certainly 
the  world  as  He  made  it  was  good. 


CHAPTER   X 
AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

AFTER  a  tiring  and  difficult  walk  we  arrived  at 
-  the  Romanow  town,  which  consisted  of  two 
or  three  villages,  each  village,  with  all  its  different 
families,  living  for  safety  in  one  very  long  house, 
to  the  chief  of  which  we  were  taken.  It  looked 
like  a  very  long  shed,  as  it  was  built  upon  piles 
ten  or  twelve  feet  from  the  ground  and  had  no 
walls,  only  a  floor  made  of  split  bamboos  laid  an 
inch  or  two  apart,  very  convenient  for  lodging  no 
dust,  and  for  throwing  down  any  odds  and  ends 
you  may  want  to  get  rid  of,  and  a  very  high  palm- 
leaf  roof,  which  slanted  right  down  below  the 
floor,  and  so,  unless  you  were  underneath,  entirely 
hid  the  fact  of  there  being  one. 

We  were  welcomed  with  great  courtesy  by  the 
chief  and  given  the  further  end  of  his  village,  or 
rather  house,  to  live  and  sleep  in;  and  as  we  stood 
at  the  top  looking  down,  a  sea  of  faces  met  our 
eyes — men,    women,    and    children    gazing    with 

99 


loo  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

bated  breath  on  the  first  white  man  or  woman 
they  had  ever  seen. 

They  had  heard  of  white  men,  and  some  of 
them  had  seen  them,  and  they  certainly  were 
extraordinary  enough  ;  but  a  white  w'oman ! — 
words  evidently  failed  them,  as  their  wide-open 
mouths  and  vacant  faces  testified  ;  and  except  for 
our  own  voices,  not  a  sound  broke  the  dead  silence 
with  which  those  hundreds  of  eyes  watched  our 
every  movement.  From  then  to  the  day  we  left 
we  had  absolutely  no  privacy.  Their  various 
works  fortunately  called  them  away  sometimes, 
but  they  were  determined  to  lose  nothing,  and 
I  was  never  without  a  small  audience.  I  got 
quite  clever  at  dressing  and  undressing  under  a 
sarong,  while  they  all  sat  round  patiently,  watch- 
ing and  longing  for  the  moment  when  I  should 
drop  the  sarong,  so  that  they  might  see  what 
transformation  had  been  going  on.  It  w^as  all 
like  a  very  thrilling  play  to  them. 

I  found,  as  we  thought,  a  really  private  place 
for  bathing  in  a  stream  not  far  off.  We  pretended 
to  be  going  in  the  opposite  direction,  and  then 
we  doubled  back  when  we  were  out  of  sight,  and 
Dick  sat  within  calling  distance  at  the  top  of  a 
small  hill  between  me  and  the  village  to  keep  off 
all  intruders  ;   but  it  was  no  good.     The  natives 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  loi 

had  hidden  themselves  most  successfully,  and 
only  when  I  had  finished,  crept  away  through  the 
trees  on  the  opposite  side. 

I  was  a  constant  excitement  to  them,  and  one 
day  when  I  was  sitting  in  the  house,  a  very  old 
woman  could  bear  no  longer  the  suspense  of  not 
knowing  whether  white  skin  felt  the  same  as 
black,  so  she  summoned  up  all  her  courage  and 
bore  down  on  me  ;  the  other  people  delighted  at 
her  pluck,  and  thrilled  to  know  the  result  of  her 
investigation.  She  came  nearer  and  nearer,  in  a 
creepy,  squirming  way,  as  if  she  was  treading 
on  hot  coals,  and  when  she  was  quite  close  she 
suddenly  put  out  a  skinny  finger  and  touched 
my  hand,  and  then  drew  back  very  quickly  as  if 
it  had  burnt  her.  I  laughed,  and  my  audience  all 
joined  in  delighted. 

One-third  of  the  house  all  up  one  side  was 
boarded  off,  and  divided  into  extraordinary  little 
boxes  for  the  women  and  children.  The  kitchen 
and  store-room  were  also  there,  and  the  whole 
place  looked  very  like  an  untidy  hen-house  on  a 
large  scale.  The  kitchen  was  very  simple,  just 
a  flat  stone  fireplace,  with  no  means  of  carrying 
off  the  smoke,  which  was  allowed  to  escape  where 
it  liked. 

At  night  we  all  slept  in  one  serried  row,  packed 


I02  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

like  sardines,  the  whole  way  down  this  hugely 
long  house.  I  slept  at  the  top,  then  Dick,  then  all 
the  other  men  quite  close  up  to  us,  only  divided 
by  a  mosquito  curtain  and  a  shallow  step,  and  our 
only  means  of  going  in  and  out  was  by  more  or 
less  swarming  a  very  thin  nearly  perpendicular 
trunk  of  a  tree  with  notches  cut  in  it.  This  was 
stuck  up  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  house,  right 
away  from  us,  and  I  shall  never  forget  it,  as  I  was 
very  ill  once  up  there,  and  the  picking  my  way  in 
a  half-fainting  condition  at  night  over  all  those 
sleeping  and  never-ending  men's  legs  whenever 
I  wanted  to  get  into  the  air,  and  the  swarming 
backwards  and  forwards  at  the  other  end,  is  still 
almost  like  a  nightmare  to  me. 

This  all  living  together  in  civilised  countries 
would  mean  endless  rows ;  but  all  the  time  we 
were  living  with  these  head-hunters  we  were 
struck  with  their  gentleness  and  the  extraordinary 
peacefulness  of  their  home  life.  Countries  out- 
side the  pale  of  civilisation  certainly  teach  us  a 
great  deal. 

They  have  much  less  vice  than  we  have  in 
many  ways.  The  breaking  of  the  Seventh  Com- 
mandment was  among  the  Muruts  an  almost  un- 
known crime,  punishable  with  death. 

In  those  crowded  houses  their  girls  are  as  safe 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  103 

and  sacred  as  if  each  of  them  were  under  lock 
and  key.  Civilisation  and  education,  with  their 
attendant  harpies,  have  not  yet  reached  them. 
They  are  still  unenlightened  enough  to  be  moral ! 
Europeans  are  very  kind  ;  there  is  nothing  they 
aren't  ready  to  do  for  the  benefit  of  savages. 
The  only  struggle  is  who  shall  do  it  first ;  and 
missions  of  every  kind,  political  and  otherwise, 
come  pouring  out,  all  treading  on  one  another's 
heels  in  their  haste  to  improve  the  welfare  of  the 
savage,  and  to  help  all  coloured  races. 

The  Chinese  are  smoking  too  much  opium — out 
comes  a  mission  to  prevent,  if  possible,  this  awful 
crime,  leaving  happily  behind  it,  because  uncon- 
scious of  it,  a  far  greater  curse  in  the  cigarette 
smoking  at  home,  which  at  the  present  moment  is 
carried  to  such  excess  that  it  is  undermining  the 
strength  and  usefulness  of  thousands  of  our  men 
and  boys. 

The  poor  Malay  has  no  religion,  and  out  comes 
a  mission — not  to  live  with  him  and  gradually 
to  teach  him  Christianity,  as  a  handful  of  men  are 
doing  in  some  parts  of  Borneo,  giving  their  whole 
life  to  the  work  because  they  care  for  what  they 
are  teaching,  but  to  make  a  comfortable  living  for 
themselves  by  supplying  him  with  Bibles.  He  is 
absolutely  untaught,  but  ten  thousand  Bibles  in 


104  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

ten  thousand  pagans'  hands  sounds  so  well  ;  and 
the  people  at  home  who,  in  all  good  faith,  send 
out  the  mission,  don't  realise  that  the  Bibles  are 
no  more  use  than  ten  thousand  copies  of  the  Koran 
written  in  Arabic  would  be  to  ten  thousand  of  our 
English  poor  people,  and  they  may  be  put  to  uses 
little  dreamt  of  by  those  who  found  the  money  for 
them.  In  Sandakan  alone  I  should  be  afraid  to 
say  how  many  copies  were  bought  up  by  the 
Chinese  storekeepers,  because  it  was  the  cheapest 
form  of  paper,  and  just  the  right  size  for  wrapping 
up  tobacco  ! 

A  report  is  spread  that  the  savage  head-hunters 
are  killing  each  other,  and  out  come  more  mis- 
sions. They  are  killing  each  other,  it  is  quite 
true.  We  lived  with  them,  but  we  never  went 
to  sleep  without  a  revolver  under  our  pillows  for 
fear  they  should  take  it  into  their  heads  to  kill 
us  too.  The  ruling  passion  of  their  life  is  fighting, 
and  just  as  we  ask  our  friends  to  come  and  have 
tea,  they  ask  theirs  to  come  and  get  a  few  heads 
from  a  neighbouring  tribe. 

The  Dyaks  take  only  the  hair,  and  fasten  scalp 
after  scalp  to  their  hunting  knives  with  great 
pride  ;  but  the  Muruts  must  have  the  whole  head 
as  proof  of  their  prowess. 

They  decorate  their  houses  with  them,  and  you 
see  them  above  you  as  you  lie  down  to  sleep. 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  105 

One  day  I  was  groping  my  way  along  one  of 
their  houses,  which  was  very  dark,  when  I  knocked 
against  a  lot  of  heads  all  hanging  up  together. 
It  wasn't  at  all  nice.  But  there  is  nothing  revolt- 
ing in  their  head-hunting;  they  fight  fairly.  It  is 
their  chance  of  winning  renown  and  showing 
what  they  are  made  of.  The  only  low  part  of  it 
is  that  a  woman's  head,  owing  to  her  longer  hair, 
is  prized  even  higher  than  that  of  a  man  ;  but  the 
whole  thing  is  a  thrilling  game  to  them,  full  of 
excitement  and  danger.  There  is  nothing  unfair 
in  their  warfare  ;  both  sides  are  doing  the  same, 
and  man  after  man  wins  his  spurs  in  feats  of  pluck 
and  daring,  which  form  the  theme  for  their  war 
songs  and  their  weirder  war  dances  in  the  long 
dark  evenings. 

I  don't  want  to  stand  up  for  head-hunting,  it 
isn't  nice  !  We  civilised  nations  call  it  murder, 
and  it  is  murder.    But  who  are  we  to  throw  stones? 

Aren't  the  means  we  take  to  satisfy  our  un- 
quenchable thirst  for  gain,  murder?  Isn't  the 
sweating  that  goes  on  in  so  many  of  our  trades 
murder?  Tailoring,  shirt-making,  straw-plaiting, 
lace  and  box  and  nail-making,  and  how  many 
more?  Do  any  of  them  bear  looking  into  if  we 
want  to  feel  that  as  a  country  we  do  not  murder? 
Isn't  the  wholesale  destruction  of  body,  soul,  and 


io6  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

spirit,  which  drinlc  and  gambling  and  immorality 
are  carrying  on  hourly  at  our  very  doors,  and 
inside  many  of  them,  filling  our  hospitals  and 
lunatic  asylums  and  graves,  isn't  that  murder? 
And  in  our  murder  are  any  good  qualities  neces- 
sary?    None  ! 

But  fighting  brings  out  the  noblest  parts  of 
a  savage,  and  in  their  home-life  love  and  content 
reign  ;  but  civilised  murder  means  misery  and 
discontent,  and  homes  turned  into  hell. 

If  we  took  a  being  from  some  other  planet  and 
made  him  look  at  the  two  pictures,  Barbarism  and 
Civilisation,  side  by  side — Paganism  and  Chris- 
tianity— I  don't  think  his  verdict  as  to  who  wanted 
the  most  teaching  would  be  the  same  as  ours. 

I  wish  Christianity  could  be  taught  these  Muruts 
in  all  its  primitive  simplicity  without  any  book- 
learning,  as  the  moment  a  boy  knows  any  English, 
the  usual  accompaniment  to  learning  Christianity, 
his  head  is  completely  turned  with  his  own  gran- 
deur, and  he  goes  home,  not  helped  to  do  his 
duty,  but  utterly  unfitted  for  what  should  have 
been  his  future  life.  It  doesn't  matter  how  slight 
his  knowledge  of  English  may  be,  it  is  too  much 
for  his  brain,  and  all  his  people  see  of  the  effect 
of  Christianity,  is  an  absolute  dissatisfaction  with 
and  contempt  for  his  people  and  his  home  ! 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  107 

As  a  general  rule,  given  two  boys  out  of  the 
same  family,  one  a  pagan  the  other  a  so-called 
Christian,  the  one  will  be  ready  to  use  his  wits 
and  his  hands  and  do  anything  you  want,  and  the 
other  will  be  absolutely  useless,  hoping  some  day 
to  be  a  clerk,  and  meanwhile  determined  not  to 
lower  himself  by  any  manual  work.  With  them  a 
little  learning  is  certainly  a  very  dangerous  thing! 

It  is  all  wrong  that  when  looking  for  servants 
you  instinctively  shrink  from  any  boy  calling  him- 
self a  Christian,  and  you  at  once  find  he  won't 
suit  you  ;  yet,  so  it  is.  Christianity  is  generally 
a  cloak  they  put  on  when  other  trades  fail,  and 
means  nothing  except,  I  suppose,  to  them,  a 
possible  chance  of  taking  in  a  new-comer. 

It  would  be  very  grievous  if  the  Muruts  we  lived 
among  should  have  their  heads  turned  by  educa- 
tion ;  but  if  they  could  be  taught  quite  simply  by 
word  of  mouth  in  their  own  language  the  story 
of  the  Redemption,  and  then  could  be  given  a  real 
altar  with  real  sacraments  to  a  known  God,  instead 
of  their  superstitions  and  altars  to  an  unknown 
overruling  Being,  who  is  always  requiring  pro- 
pitiation, their  head-hunting  would  be  a  thing  of 
the  past,  and  with  that  exception  there  would  be 
little  for  them  to  unlearn — which  is  saying  a  great 
deal. 


CHAPTER   XI 
AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

THE  Muruts  are  a  dark  race  compared  to  other 
of  the  inland  tribes,  and  have  some  customs 
peculiar  to  themselves.  Among  other  things  they 
have  a  reputation  for  making  the  famous  Upas 
poison  specially  venomous.  This  poison  is  taken 
from  the  bark  of  the  Upas  tree,  and,  mixed  with 
the  macerated  root  of  the  Bima  palm,  has  most 
deadly  effects  on  man  and  beast,  startling  and 
terrible  convulsions  coming  on  almost  at  once, 
followed  by  a  state  of  coma,  which  soon  ends  in 
death. 

The  upas  tree  is  very  large,  twelve  feet  in  girth. 
To  make  the  poison  the  bark  is  split  a  little  and 
juice  oozes  out  which  gets  quite  hard  in  an  hour 
or  two,  and  looks  like  light-coloured  Spanish 
liquorice  and  tastes  intensely  bitter.  Alone  it  is 
harmless,  but  when  mixed  with  bima,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  two  upas  to  one  bima,  it  becomes  very 
poisonous. 

1 08 


TENGARA    MURUT    FISHKRMEN 


INTERIOR    OF    A    ROMANOW    HEAO-HUNTERS     VILLAGE 
WHERE    WE    SIAYEn 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  109 

They  spread  it  over  the  heads  of  their  darts, 
which,  in  this  way,  become  as  deadly  as  when 
thrust  into  a  dead  body  after  decomposition  has 
already  set  in,  which  is  their  other  means  of  pre- 
paring these  death-carrying  missiles,  many  incan- 
tations being  muttered  over  them  at  the  same  time 
to  increase  their  potency. 

They  are  very  reverent  with  their  dead,  taking 
great  care  of  their  graves.  We  used  to  find  large 
mounds  built  up  over  them,  and  above  that  again 
sheds  erected  to  protect  them  from  the  rain,  under 
which  they  hung  bags  of  food  which  they  con- 
stantly renewed  to  appease  bad  spirits  who  might 
otherwise  disturb  the  rest  of  their  departed. 

They  are  very  particular  about  their  times  of 
mourning,  joining  in  no  festivities  of  any  kind 
while  it  lasts. 

One  night  when  they  had  a  dance  the  chief  and 
his  wife  sent  one  of  our  Dyaks  to  ask  us  to  excuse 
them,  as  their  little  girl  had  died  nearly  a  year 
before  and  they  were  not  yet  out  of  mourning. 

They  sometimes  embalm  their  dead  with  the 
same  Barus  camphor  the  Egyptiaiis  formerly  used. 
It  is  much  better  than  the  ordinary  camphor  we 
know,  and  the  trees  abound  in  the  jungle,  but 
they  are  not  used  till  they  are  about  a  hundred 
and  fifty  years   old,  and  though    many  of  them 


no  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

yield  oil,  it  rarely  turns  to  this  valuable  gum- 
camphor,  which  is  worth  about  £t^  a  pound. 

These  camphor  collectors,  who  know  their  work, 
can  tell  if  the  tree  is  ripe,  and  then  by  making 
incisions  in  the  trunk  they  know  if  they  will  find 
the  solid  gum,  as,  if  not,  oil  oozes  out.  But  if 
there  is  camphor,  they  at  once  cut  down  the  tree 
and  split  up  the  trunk,  and  there  in  the  heart  of 
it,  all  in  one  cell,  they  find  a  roll  of  the  precious 
gum  up  to  25  lbs.  in  weight,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  tree. 

The  men  collect  a  certain  amount  of  other 
jungle  produce  too  :  malacca  canes,  gutta-percha, 
india-rubber,  and  beeswax. 

The  whole  of  the  jungle  swarms  with  bees,  and 
millions  of  tons  of  beeswax  and  honey  might 
be  collected  every  year.  Fifty  to  one  hundred 
bees'  nests  may  be  found  in  one  mengalis  tree 
alone — a  large  tree,  with  a  trunk  seven  or  eight 
feet  in  diameter,  of  which  bees  seem  especially 
fond. 

In  order  to  climb  into  the  branches,  which 
always  grow  very  high  up,  the  bee-hunters  peg 
in  saplings  against  the  trunk,  one  above  the 
other  ;  then  they  stupefy  the  bees  at  night  with 
smouldering  weeds,  so  that  the  nests  can  be  easily 
taken. 


AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  iii 

The  bees  generally  swarm,  I  am  thankful  to 
say,  a  hundred  feet  above  ground,  but  one  day, 
when  we  were  forcing  our  way  through  some  thick 
bush,  we  unwarily  disturbed  some  bees  which 
had  made  up  their  minds  to  swarm  quite  near  the 
ground.  They  made,  of  course,  straight  for  us, 
and  stung  us  horribly.  The  agony  at  first  was  so 
bewildering  we  could  hardly  think.  We  just 
plunged  blindly  on  ;  but  the  pain  soon  went  off, 
as,  happily,  they  weren't  hornets. 

Another  time,  when  Dick  was  stung  by  a  large, 
very  poisonous  hornet,  he  was  ill  for  two  or  three 
days  with  simply  excruciating  pain.  Two  stings 
at  once  are  said  to  kill  you,  and,  judging  by  the 
effect  of  one,  I  can  well  imagine  it. 

The  Muruts,  like  all  the  other  Malay  tribes, 
take  good  care  not  to  overtire  themselves  with 
too  much  work.  Their  staple  food  is  fruit,  vege- 
tables, and  rice,  and  they  are  absolutely  self-suffi- 
cient, growing  everything  necessary  for  their  food 
and  clothes,  and  also  plenty  of  tobacco,  the 
one  luxury  which  has  grown  into  a  necessity  to 
them  all. 

Their  clothes  don't  require  any  great  ingenuity 
or  an  overabundant  amount  of  cotton,  as  the  men 
only  wear  a  band,  except  when  they  go  out  in  the 
blazing  sun,  when  they  sometimes  put  on  a  strip 


112  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

of  cloth  about  two  yards  long,  with  just  a  hole 
in  the  middle  for  their  heads. 

The  women's  only  dress  is  a  petticoat  about 
ten  inches  long,  which  they  sling  on  in  some 
marvellous  way  below  their  hips. 

They  spin  the  cotton,  and  then  dye  it  either 
indigo  or  black,  and  then  weave  it  with  little 
rough  hand-looms,  very  much  like  those  used  by 
the  cottagers  in  Scotland. 

There  were  fortunately  no  pigs  under  the  house 
where  we  were  staying,  but  quantities  of  them 
were  kept,  and  the  natives  will  only  eat  their  own 
home-fed  ones,  or  wild  ones  killed  in  the  chase, 
as  they  know  on  what  refuse  they  are  always  fed. 

The  joy  and  greed  of  our  "boys"  when  Dick  got 
a  wild  boar  was  too  disgusting.  Meat,  of  course, 
couldn't  be  kept  long,  so  they  were  determined  to 
make  the  most  of  it,  and  I  simply  can't  say  how 
many  pounds  of  it,  all  in  one  sitting,  they 
managed  to  consume  before  they  were  satisfied. 

The  flesh  of  a  wild  pig,  however,  is  not  the 
least  like  pork  ;  it  is  much  more  like  beef.  The 
tusks  of  these  boars  are  sometimes  very  good, 
measuring  about  six  and  a  half  inches  from  the 
root  to  the  tip. 

The  Muruts  are  great  hunters,  and  are  wonder- 
fully clever  in  the  way  they  fling  their  spears,  and 


AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  113 

for  monkeys  they  use  sharp  little  darts,  which 
they  throw  a  long  distance  with  most  unerring 
aim. 

They  know  nothing  of  the  outside  world,  only  of 
the  tribes  living  round  them. 

If  a  gathering  of  the  tribes  is  needed  to  make 
war,  a  piece  of  stuff,  with  as  many  knots  as  days  to 
elapse  before  the  rising,  is  sent  round  to  all  the 
head  men  ;  and,  on  the  other  hand,  if  peace  is 
proclaimed,  a  piece  of  rattan  similarly  knotted  is 
sent. 

They  take  the  nails  as  well  as  the  heads  of  their 
enemies  as  war  trophies,  and  beautify  their  houses 
with  them. 

The  women  have  a  bad  time  when  war  is  going 
on,  as,  besides  working  by  day  and  dancing  by 
night  in  celebration  of  every  victory,  their  heads 
are  much  sought  after. 

They  wear  wonderful  ornaments  of  every  kind. 
The  most  usual  are  coil  upon  coil  of  brass  wire 
round  their  wrists  and  arms  and  legs,  extending 
sometimes  from  their  ankles  to  more  than  half-way 
up  to  their  knees,  and  they  wear  such  a  mass  of 
earrings  running  up  the  edge  of  their  ears  and 
hanging  down  over  their  shoulders,  that  the  lobes 
of  their  ears  are  pulled  out  of  place  and  reduced 
sometimes  to  ribbons  from  sheer  overweight  and 


114  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

overcrowding.  Among  their  other  jewellery  they 
also  had  some  solid  flat  brass  collars  which  stuck 
out  round  their  necks,  and  must  have  been  most 
uncomfortable  to  wear  and  to  take  off  and  on. 
They  used  them  originally  as  a  protection  against 
other  head-hunters,  but  they  weren't  wearing  them 
when  we  were  with  them,  as  they  had  done  no  head- 
hunting for  two  years. 

The  nearest  dangerous  head-hunters  were  about 
eight  miles  away,  which  felt  a  little  too  near  some- 
times to  be  quite  comfortable. 

Our  Romanows  were  probably  quite  friendly 
with  them  when  we  weren't  there,  but  they  were  a 
strong  tribe,  and  they  refused  to  give  up  head- 
hunting and  defied  European  government,  so  we 
gave  them  as  wide  a  berth  as  we  conveniently 
could. 

Our  Bornean  police  force  not  being  strong 
enough  to  cope  with  them,  we  with  our  six  Dyak 
police  certainly  weren't.  I  am  very  glad  we  didn't 
happen  to  chance  on  them  in  any  of  our  jungle 
walks.  Two  white  heads  with  fair  hair  would  have 
made,  we  knew,  a  beautiful  ornament  for  their 
village,  but  we  didn't  feel  at  all  inclined  to  be  sud- 
denly transfixed  by  their  poisonous  darts. 

It  was  very  interesting  watching  our  head- 
hunters  in  their  ordinary  everyday  life.     They  were 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  115 

very  nice  to  me,  bringing  me  presents  of  rice  and 
vegetables.  The  only  things  we  had  difficulty  in 
getting  were  chickens.  They  couldn't  bear  parting 
with  them.  We  found,  however,  among  our  beads, 
which  we  gave  in  exchange  for  what  we  wanted, 
there  were  some  blue  ones  which  were  coveted  by 
everyone  ;  this,  of  course,  sent  up  their  value,  and 
we  parted  with  them  very  sparingly.  We  found 
those  people  who  had  never  possessed  chickens  in 
their  lives  brought  them  in,  one  after  another, 
when  the  blue  beads  were  going  ;  they  were  simply 
magical  in  their  effect.  If  they  hadn't  chickens, 
they  brought  us  any  curios  they  could  lay  their 
hands  on — quaint,  beautifully  designed  wooden 
tobacco  cases,  carved  combs,  and  when  everything 
else  failed,  bits  of  home-made  cloth  came  pouring 
in  one  after  another,  and  we  were  brought  one  or 
two  beautiful  krises  and  swords. 

They  had  food  twice  in  the  day,  in  the  middle  of 
the  morning  and  at  sunset.  The  first  time  I  saw  it 
arrive  I  was  dreadfully  startled,  as  suddenly,  when 
we  were  all  very  quiet,  there  was  the  most  awful 
rush  and  scramble  from  every  corner  of  the  house, 
and  I  discovered  two  women  had  just  appeared 
from  the  kitchen  with  enormous  calabashes  full  of 
sweet  potatoes  and  tapioca-root,  and  every  man  at 
the  same  moment  sprang  at  the  dish  and  grabbed 


ii6  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

a  root.  They  were  really  just  like  a  pack  of 
ravenous  dogs  after  a  bone,  though  there  was 
plenty  for  everyone,  and  the  moment  the  rush  was 
over  they  retired  at  once  to  their  different  corners 
as  friendly  and  quiet  as  ever  again. 

All  the  time  we  were  there  I  never  heard  one  un- 
gentle word  in  the  whole  house,  nor  saw  a  cross 
look  among  the  children  or  grown-ups.  The 
women  were  the  water-carriers  as  well  as  the  cooks, 
and  their  cans  were  large  bamboos,  every  joint 
making  a  can  ;  but  except  fetching  water  we  never 
saw  them  doing  work  out  of  doors. 

Sometimes  in  the  afternoons  the  men  had  their 
hair  dressed.  A  girl  would  appear  with  a  funny 
kind  of  comb,  more  like  a  salad  fork  with  very 
long  teeth  than  anything  else.  She  went  solemnly 
down  the  room,  and  the  men  sat  up  one  after 
another  without  a  word,  and  had  their  long  black 
hair  combed  out.  They  generally  did  the  pinning- 
up  part  themselves.  The  girl  just  did  the  combing, 
and  left  each  man's  hair  sticking  straight  out  be- 
hind him  in  the  funniest  way  possible.  The  grease 
on  it  was  so  thick  that  it  couldn't  fall  over  their 
shoulders  as  ordinary  hair  would,  but  it  seemed 
quite  easy  to  do  up.  The  men  just  curled  it  round 
in  a  big  twist  at  the  back  of  their  heads  and 
fastened  it  firmly  up  with  a  single  large  hairpin. 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  117 

which  was  either  a  curved  flat  horn  or  brass  thing 
running  into  a  point. 

When  their  day  was  over,  which,  when  we  were 
there,  wasn't  till  we  went  to  bed  at  about  nine 
o'clock,  they  wrapped  a  long  straight  cotton  cloth 
around  them  and  lay  down  just  as  they  were,  with- 
out mat  or  pillow,  and  apparently  went  straight  to 
sleep.  We  did  the  same  in  our  corner,  our  head 
on  our  pillows  and  our  hand  on  a  loaded  revolver, 
but  we  never  saw  any  signs  of  unfriendliness  ;  if 
there  had  been,  they  had  us  entirely  at  their  mercy, 
and  we  should  have  been  dead  and  buried  some 
weeks  before  anyone  could  even  have  suspected 
there  was  anything  wrong. 

Their  fire-making  methods  were  very  interesting, 
but  in  most  parts  they  were  fast  disappearing  be- 
fore the  advent  of  matches,  which  the  traders  who 
go  up  and  down  the  river  all  carry  ;  but  when 
these  can't  be  had,  they  produce  fire  in  the  most 
wonderful  way. 

Some  of  the  men  can  bring  it  at  once  with  a 
broken  bit  of  glass  or  crockery  struck  sharply  on 
the  side  of  a  well-seasoned  bamboo  ;  but  two  ot 
the  most  favourite  ways  of  bringing  a  flame  were 
with  fire-saws  and  fire-drills.  The  fire-saws  con- 
sisted of  two  pieces  of  bamboo  about  ten  inches 
long,  and  one  and  a  half  inches  wide.     One  piece 


ii8  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

held  firm,  and  the  other  with  a  notch  in*it  rubbed 
hard  against  it  takes,  with  steady  work  and  a  tinder 
of  fine  bamboo  shavings,  less  than  a  minute  to 
light.  It  begins  to  smoke  almost  at  once,  and 
both  the  pieces  of  bamboo  get  heated  and  black. 
But  the  fire-drill  is  the  most  usual  of  all  ways. 
It  is  made  out  of  one  of  three  specially  soft  woods 
adapted  for  the  purpose.  A  rapidly  growing  tree, 
Ladang  by  name,  is  most  commonly  used.  There 
are  two  parts  to  the  drill,  a  round  stick  about 
eleven  inches  long,  tapering  from  a  quarter  to  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  the  thicker  end 
rounded,  and  an  ordinary  little  unflawed  slab 
of  wood  with  a  groove  cut  down  one  side  to  let 
the  dust  fall  through.  To  work  that,  a  man  holds 
the  slab  tight  between  his  feet,  and  taking  the 
thin  end  of  the  drill  between  the  palms  of  his 
hands,  he  works  them  rapidly  backwards  and 
forwards,  keeping  a  constant  pressure  down  on  to 
the  slab,  while  he  runs  his  hands  up  and  down 
the  stick.  The  friction  soon  wears  a  hole,  but 
it  takes  about  two  minutes  to  light  the  tinder 
properly.  The  natives  do  it  wonderfully,  and 
Dick  can  char  wood  and  make  it  smoke  ;  but  I  was 
altogether  useless  at  it,  and  I  should  be  very  sorry 
for  anyone  whose  dinner  depended  on  a  fire  lit  by 
me  without  a  match  I 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  119 

They  all  gave  a  war  dance  one  night  for  our 
benefit.  Lit  up  by  torches,  it  was  most  weird  and 
realistic.  You  could  see  by  every  movement  of 
their  bodies  and  every  thrust  of  their  spears 
that  they  were  in  imagination  gloating  over  a 
fallen  foe. 

It  was  their  usual  song  of  triumph  after  a  fight, 
and  I  am  afraid  it  must  have  made  them  yearn 
to  be  on  the  war-path  again. 

The  trial  we  went  up  for  we  couldn't  have  at 
once,  as  the  necessary  witnesses  were  not  on  the 
spot  and  had  to  be  called,  and  as  time  with  them 
counts  for  nothing,  waited  for.  One  or  two  of 
the  witnesses  were  particularly  fine  looking,  and 
reminded  usof  pictures  of  ancient  Greeks — straight- 
limbed,  well-made  men,  taller  than  the  ordinary 
Malay,  with  very  good  features,  and  a  green  band, 
like  laurel  leaves,  straight  round  their  foreheads 
added  to  their  look  of  distinction. 

Dick  started  the  trial  as  soon  as  he  could  ;  but 
interpreters  were  much  in  request,  and  it  took  a 
long  time.  But  everything  told  against  the 
miserable  prisoner,  and  he  evidently  knew  that 
his  case  was  a  hopeless  one,  with  absolutely  no 
redeeming  point,  as  at  first  he  pretended  to  be 
in  such  excruciating  agony  whenever  the  trial  was 
to  be  brought  on,  that  it  was  quite  impossible  for 


120  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

him  to  come,  or  even  stand  ;  and  afterwards,  when 
he  saw  that  was  no  good,  he  crouched  up  in  a 
little  ball  on  the  floor,  and  no  one  could  make  him 
move.  He  was  sentenced  to  death,  and  an  edict 
was  sent  out  to  say  that  the  escaped  murderer  was 
to  be  taken  alive,  or,  if  that  wasn't  possible,  dead  ; 
and  his  body  was  brought  in  soon  afterwards. 

Before  leaving  our  head-hunting  friends  we 
dynamited  in  the  river  for  fish,  to  their  intense 
excitement.  Fortunately  we  had  chosen  a  good 
place,  and  we  got  a  splendid  haul.  They  watched 
us  closely,  and  when,  a  few  seconds  after  we  had 
thrown  in  a  small  charge,  they  heard  a  bang  under 
the  water,  and  directly  after  that  saw  masses  of 
fish  rising  to  the  surface,  they  were  simply 
astonished  at  our  magic  ;  but  they  didn't  waste  a 
minute.  Screaming  and  yelling,  they  shot  out  in 
their  canoes  with  their  spears  all  ready  poised  to 
strike  directly  they  got  within  reach. 

Lower  down  the  river  and  in  the  sea  we  had 
very  bad  fish,  nothing  but  bones  with  four  or  five 
sharp  prongs  sticking  out  in  every  direction, 
unlike  any  others  we  had  ever  seen  ;  but  up  there 
in  the  interior  they  were  a  very  good  sort,  very 
like  salmon-trout  in  looks  and  taste. 

Our  journey  down  the  river  was  mostly  without 
adventure,  and  we  saw  little  life  except  monkeys, 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  121 

and  the  most  beautiful  birds  and  butterflies  of 
every  kind,  from  huge  hornbills  sawing  the  air 
with  their  wings  as  they  passed  over  us,  or 
hoarsely  crying  to  each  other  from  the  tree-tops, 
to  the  brilliant  little  sun-birds  which  darted  in 
and  out  of  all  the  undergrowth  ;  and  from  the 
glorious  black  and  green  ornithoptera,  measuring 
with  its  wings  open  more  than  half  a  foot  across, 
to  the  tiniest  blue  in  butterflies.  They  were  one 
and  all  interesting,  and  many  of  them  dazzlingly 
beautiful.  They  are  just  the  touch  of  brightness 
and  brilliance  which  the  jungle  needs,  and  with- 
out which  it  would  be  so  immeasurably  poorer. 

Monkeys  of  various  kinds  we  were  able  to  study 
splendidly,  as  the  riversides  abounded  with  them, 
including  those  wonderful  gymnasts,  the  Silvery 
Gibbons  and  the  long-nosed  Proboscis  monkeys, 
only  found  in  Borneo,  and  orang-utans,  which 
have  large  comfortable  nests  lined  with  dry  leaves, 
in  which  the  mother  and  child  sleep,  while  the 
father  curls  up  on  a  fork  quite  near  them  ;  but 
they  only  stay  a  few  nights  in  the  same  nests,  as 
they  lead  very  roving  lives,  living  on  fruit,  and 
following  up  the  fruit  trees  as  each  lot  of  fruit 
peculiar  to  any  district  ripens.  Durians  they  are 
particularly  fond  of,  and  mangosteens.  They  are 
very  strong,  but  will  never  attack  a  human  being 


122  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

unless  wounded,  and  then  a  male  will  come  to  the 
help  of  a  female,  even  when  he  knows  he  is  run- 
ning straight  into  danger. 

We  were  in  the  near  neighbourhood  of  rhino- 
ceros and  bears — small  brown  ones,  rather  larger 
than  retriever  dogs,  but  we  never  got  the  chance 
of  a  shot. 

A  rhinoceros  seems  to  be  quite  the  most  sense- 
less, and  yet  the  most  dangerous  animal  there  is, 
as  it  has  no  sense  of  fear,  but  absolutely  no  dis- 
crimination ;  it  runs  at  everything,  and  with 
equal  fury  at  a  heap  of  dirt  or  at  a  human  being. 
It  has  a  consuming  longing  to  knock  down  all  it 
doesn't  understand,  and  as  its  intelligence  is  ex- 
traordinarily limited,  it  spends  its  time  in  charging 
into  things. 

The  most  exciting  part  of  our  journey  back  were 
the  rapids,  which  we  shot  in  the  most  breathlessly 
thrilling  way.  We  were  following  each  other  in 
cockle-shells  of  canoes  at  express-train  speed.  We 
had  no  time  to  speak  or  even  to  think  as  we  tore 
through  the  air,  rocks  on  every  side  of  us.  It 
seemed  as  if  any  moment  we  might  be  hurled  to 
eternity  ;  but  our  boatmen  knew  their  work. 
They  hardly  moved  their  paddles,  and  yet  they 
passed  every  critical  point  in  a  simply  marvellous 
way.     One  false  move  and  we  should  have  been 


AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS  123 

done  for,  but  they  brought  us  safely  through  ; 
and  when  all  was  over  looked  as  if  they  had  done 
nothing  in  the  least  out  of  the  common.  How 
they  could  possibly  keep  their  heads  and  steer  as 
they  did  I  can't  imagine. 


CHAPTER   XII 

RETURN    HOME— CHINA,  JAPAN,  AND 
THE   CANADIAN-PACIFIC   ROUTE 

AT  the  end  of  rather  more  than  two  years  we 
J~\.  started  home  again,  very  sorry  to  leave  so 
many  friends  behind  us,  but  the  idea  of  home  was 
more  welcome  than  words  can  say. 

We  had  had  a  very  happy  time  in  Borneo,  but 
month  after  month  of  intermittent  malaria  is 
wearing,  and  always  having  to  be  on  the  look  out 
for  poisonous  creeping  things  is  all  right  when 
you  are  well,  but  when  you  aren't,  a  centipede 
four  to  six  inches  long  and  half  an  inch  broad, 
running  over  you  in  bed,  or  a  scorpion  making 
itself  at  home  in  your  shoes,  is  apt  to  get  on  your 
nerves. 

When  I  arrived  out  there  people  were  jealous  of 
my  English  colour ;  but  there  was  no  possible 
room  for  jealousy  when  I  came  away,  as  bright 
yellow  parchment  skin  stretched  over  bones  is  not 
becoming  to  anyone,  so  I  left  no  ill-feeling  behind 
me  ! 

124 


RETURN    HOME  125 

We  gave  a  big  dance,  starting  with  acting,  just 
before  we  left,  and  I  shall  never  forget  catching 
sight  of  myself  as  others  saw  me  one  afternoon 
just  before,  when  we  put  on  some  trying-coloured 
acting  clothes  by  daylight.  All  I  can  say  is,  it 
was  a  most  painful  moment  for  any  vanity  I  had 
left,  though  there  ought  to  have  been  none,  as 
some  little  time  before  I  had  heard  two  great 
friends  of  mine  talking  about  my  looks  kindly  but 
truly  !  And  the  truth  isn't  always  flattering  !  It 
wasn't  on  this  occasion.  They  didn't  see  I  was 
standing  by  them,  and  I  am  thankful  to  say  that 
when  they  did  realise,  I  was  able  to  look  so  un- 
conscious that  they  thought  I  hadn't  heard  ! 

Society  in  Sandakan  was  divided  into  two 
cliques,  but  they  both  came  down  to  the  Hong 
Kong  boat  to  speed  us  on  our  homeward  way, 
which  was  very  pleasing,  though  I  won't  say  it 
wasn't  a  little  difficult  to  evenly  balance  our  atten- 
tions between  two  different  sets  of  people,  who 
would  both  talk  to  us  but  wouldn't  even  bow  to 
each  other. 

But  at  last  we  were  off,  and  those  who  had 
wished  us  so  well  little  knew  what  we  were  in  for  ; 
but  our  boat,  fortunately,  though  old  and  small, 
was  like  a  cork  on  the  water,  or  we  shouldn't  be 
here  now.     We  got  into  the  tail  end  of  a  typhoon, 


126  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

and  if  that  really  was  only  the  tail,  what  the  head 
must  have  been  like  I  daren't  think. 

We  got  through  it  at  last  though,  and  arrived 
in  Hong  Kong  sixty  hours  late,  after  certainly  a 
most  awful  passage.  The  sea  went  through  every 
kind  of  gymnastic.  It  spun  us  round  like  a  top, 
it  took  us  up  and  shook  us  in  its  fury  like  a  dog 
shaking  a  rat,  and  to  vary  that,  it  kicked  us  back- 
wards and  forwards  as  if  we  were  a  football. 
From  minute  to  minute  we  could  never  have  given 
even  a  guess  as  to  the  probable  position  we  should 
find  ourselves  in  the  next.  We  simply  lay  in  our 
berths  and  held  on  for  dear  life. 

How  the  captain  kept  his  head  among  it  all  I 
don't  know.  It  was  his  first  experience  of  any- 
thing so  bad,  and  I  hope  his  last.  We  rose  again 
and  again  on  the  crest  of  some  huge  wave,  only  to 
be  dashed  down  into  the  abyss  which  lay  beyond, 
and  though  the  sea  washed  over  us,  and  the 
deafening  roar  of  the  winds  and  waves  was  per- 
haps the  most  awesome  thing  I  have  ever  heard, 
our  boat  righted  herself  every  time  in  the  pluckiest 
way.  She  was  determined  to  bring  us  safely 
through,  and  she  did. 

At  one  time  we  were  in  great  danger,  as  the 
screw  refused  to  stay  in  the  water,  and  insisted  on 
playing   about   somewhere   above   our   heads,   so 


RETURN    HOME  127 

that  we  were  completely  at  the  mercy  of  a  most 
merciless  sea. 

Cooking  was  impossible,  but  we  were  ravenously 
hungry  after  a  time,  and  fortunately  there  was 
plenty  of  cold  food.  A  China  boy  would  suddenly 
shoot  through  the  door  and  fall  with  a  bang 
against  the  opposite  wall,  bringing  us  something 
to  eat.  I  remember  lying  on  my  back  gnawing 
the  leg  of  a  goose,  much  too  hungry  to  mind  it 
having  been  hugged  by  a  China  boy  all  the  way 
to  our  cabin,  and  fingered  by  various  other  "boys" 
probably  first. 

The  sea  only  calmed  down  a  few  hours  before 
we  arrived  at  Hong  Kong,  and  for  two  or  three 
days  after  we  landed.  The  ground  seemed  to  be 
always  moving  up  and  down  in  a  most  unpleasant 
way,  but  it  gradually  settled  down,  or  rather  we 
did,  and  any  kind  of  ground  was  welcome  after 
what  we  had  gone  through. 

From  Hong  Kong  we  went  to  Canton,  as  we 
were  anxious  to  see  real  China,  and  not  only  a 
European  edition  of  it.  We  went  by  river  in  a 
very  old-fashioned  passenger  boat.  Everything  is 
behind  the  times  in  China,  in  spite  of  their  ancient 
history.  It  was  very  curious  to  see  their  paddle- 
wheel  boats  still  worked  entirely  by  men,  and 
their  army  drilling  and  shooting  with  bows  and 


128  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

arrows  instead  of  guns.  It  was  no  wonder  they 
were  beaten  by  the  Japanese  ;  the  wonder  was  they 
had  made  any  stand  at  all.  It  was  no  fight, 
though  ;  it  was  weapons  of  two  thousand  years 
ago  competing  with  every  latest  modern  appliance 
— a  bow  and  arrow  versus  a  Maxim  gun — because 
although  the  Chinese  had  guns  with  them,  they 
knew  very  little  about  them. 

Canton  is  a  typical  Chinese  city  ;  millions  and 
millions  of  Chinamen  all  massed  together  like 
bees  in  a  hive,  and  the  principal  streets  so  narrow 
that  when  you  stand  in  the  middle  you  can  all  but 
touch  both  sides  at  the  same  time.  There  are, 
of  course,  no  carts  nor  carriages  ;  but  even  if  two 
carrying  chairs  meet  one  another,  one  has  to  back 
into  a  shop  till  the  other  has  passed. 

The  shops  are  all  open  on  to  the  streets  ;  they 
have  no  front  wall,  and  in  one  after  another  we 
saw  the  most  beautiful  embroideries,  both  old  and 
new,  though  the  colouring  of  the  new  work  was 
too  startling  and  vivid  to  be  pleasing. 

We  saw  nearly  everything  worth  seeing,  as  a 
Pole  in  Borneo  had  given  us  an  introduction  to 
a  man  who  had  lived  in  China  for  years,  and  he 
was  most  kind  to  us  and  took  us  everywhere 
himself.  Just  then  we  were  particularly  glad  to 
have  someone  who  knew  the  ropes,  as  the  anti- 


RETURN    HOME  129 

European  feeling  in  Canton  had  been  so  strong 
that  no  one  for  a  time  had  been  allowed  to  go 
there,  and  we  were  among  the  first — if  not  the 
first — to  go  after  the  restriction  had  been  removed. 

The  Buddhist  temples  were  great  landmarks  in 
the  place,  and  were  most  interesting  with  their  very 
long  and  broad  flights  of  steps  leading  to  them, 
up  and  down  which  people  were  continuously 
pouring,  to  say  a  short  prayer — which  seemed  to 
consist  almost  entirely  in  bowing  and  clapping 
their  hands — and  to  throw  an  offering  of  money 
into  a  huge  sieve,  more  like  an  ash-sifter  than 
anything  else.  Where  the  money  went  to  couldn't 
be  seen,  but  any  amount  passed  through  the  bars. 

The  only  place  we  stuck  at  was  the  Chinese 
prison.  Many  people  made  for  that,  we  were 
told,  as  one  of  the  principal  shows  in  the  place. 
It  is  certainly  a  unique  opportunity  of  seeing 
torture  in  all  its  worst  forms.  Men  and  women 
being  slowly  starved  to  death,  with  food  only  just 
out  of  reach,  and  other  equally  ingenious  devilish 
means  of  giving  prolonged  agony,  can  be  seen 
there  for  a  mere  trifle,  and  many — even  English 
people — ^jump  at  such  a  chance,  and  come  away 
with  horror  that  any  nation  in  the  world  should  be 
capable  of  contriving  such  hideous  forms  of  punish- 
ment.   Their  feelings  are  certainly  most  creditable, 


I30  AMONG  THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

but  whether  it  ever  occurs  to  them  that  watching 
other  human  beings  in  speechless  agony,  just  for 
their  own  amusement,  is  hardly  a  high  form  of 
enjoyment,  and  doesn't  remove  them  far  from  the 
Chinese  themselves,  I  don't  know. 

The  Chinese  law  is  terribly  severe  and  cruel, 
but  it  doesn't  seem  to  deter  the  people  from  crime. 
They  have  the  strictest  laws  relating  to  family 
life.  The  breaking  of  the  Fifth  Commandment — 
dishonouring  their  father  or  mother,  whether  dead 
or  alive — and  not  venerating  their  ancestors,  is  with 
the  Chinese  the  one  unforgivable  offence.  If  a 
son  harms  his  father,  it  not  only  degrades  both 
him  and  his  family,  but  the  whole  street  in  which 
they  live.  On  the  other  hand,  a  father  may  kill 
all  his  children,  and  no  one  has  any  right  to  say 
a  word. 

We  had  great  feeling  over  a  case  in  Borneo. 
A  Chinaman,  the  servant  of  a  friend  of  ours,  and 
a  very  excellent  servant  too,  always  sent  his  boy  to 
the  Roman  Catholic  school  in  Sandakan,  and  the 
boy  only  went  home  on  Sunday  afternoons. 

After  some  years,  when  he  was  about  twelve,  he 
told  his  father  he  was  a  Christian,  and  his  father 
gave  him  the  most  awful  thrashing.  This  happened 
week  after  week,  but  still  the  father  sent  him  to 
school,    and    still    the    boy    refused   to    give    up 


THE    AUTHOR 


DICK    IN    OUR    AFRICAN    BUSH    DRAWING-ROOM 


RETURN    HOME  131 

Christianity.  The  thrashings  were  so  severe,  that 
the  lady  whose  servant  the  man  was  could  hear 
from  her  house,  and  told  him  at  last  she  would 
stand  it  no  longer. 

The  father  then  settled  to  take  the  boy  to  China, 
as  North  Borneo  was  under  English  law,  and  you 
are  not  allowed  by  English  law  to  murder  your 
children.  But  Father  Byron,  the  head  of  the 
Mission,  was  naturally  not  going  to  sit  down 
quietly  and  see  the  death  of  a  child  who  had 
already  shown  himself  most  plucky  and  brave,  so 
he  smuggled  him  out  of  the  country  just  in  time. 
Directly  it  was  known,  a  storm  broke  over  Father 
Byron's  head  ;  but  the  child  was  safe.  Feeling 
raged  very  high  between  us  all.  Half  Sandakan 
said  no  one  had  any  right  to  interfere  between 
a  father  and  his  child,  which  sounded  very  right ; 
but  the  other  half  said  there  were  exceptions  to 
every  rule.  The  funny  part  of  it  was,  that  I  was 
down  on  the  same  boat  on  which  the  boy  was 
hidden  away  without  knowing  it,  but  I  heard 
Father  Byron  saying  he  was  one  or  two  shillings 
short,  and  I  fortunately  had  money  with  me,  so 
was  unconsciously  aiding  and  abetting  the  smug- 
gling. And  then  Dick  was  the  magistrate  who 
had  to  issue  the  summons  directly  afterwards 
against  Father  Byron,  to  his,  I  am  afraid,  intense 
amusement. 


132  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

The  Chinese  very  seldom  kill  their  sons,  but 
their  girl  babies  they  drown,  if  they  have  too 
many,  just  like  kittens.  Any  day  one  may  be 
seen  floating  in  the  river. 

The  only  class  of  humanity  they  are  extra- 
ordinarily kind  to  are  beggars  ;  they  never  send 
one  away  empty-handed,  so  the  beggar  guild  is 
naturally  a  very  thriving  and  rich  one.  Admission 
to  it  is  earnestly  sought  after,  but  so  jealously 
guarded  by  the  existent  members  that  the  num- 
bers are  more  or  less  kept  down. 

From  China  we  went  to  Japan,  where  we  stayed 
several  weeks  with  some  friends. 

The  world-renowned  inland  sea  we  thought 
very  disappointing,  and  unless  we  had  been  told, 
we  should  have  gone  right  through  it  without 
knowing  it  was  even  supposed  to  be  beautiful. 

Our  first  view  of  Japan  altogether  was  not  what 
we  expected.  The  villages  and  towns  looked  par- 
ticularly insignificant  and  uninteresting,  but  winter 
is  not  the  time  to  see  things  at  their  best ;  and 
when  we  got  to  know  the  country  it  all  seemed 
very  different.  We  went  to  several  different 
towns — Nagasaki,  Kobi,  Tokio,  and  Yokohama 
among  them — and  we  stayed  long  enough  in  the 
country  to,  anyway,  partly  learn  to  distinguish 
real    art    among    all    the,    at    first,    bewilderingly 


RETURN    HOME  133 

beautiful,  but  often  tawdry  results  of  Japanese 
skill  and  handiwork,  which  we  saw  all  round  us. 

They  are  certainly  a  marvellously  clever  people. 
Their  paintings,  embroideries,  and  carvings  are  of 
their  kind  matchless;  even  the  lowest  classes  seem 
to  have  an  innate  artistic  sense  capable  of  the 
highest  development. 

Perfect  finish  and  grasp  of  detail  is  perhaps  the 
strongest  characteristic  of  all  their  work,  whatever 
it  may  be.  They  have  certainly  learnt  what  we 
as  a  nation  and  as  individuals  find  so  terribly 
hard  to  realise,  but  what  that  greatest  of  all  art 
masters,  Michael  Angelo,  taught  so  long  ago, 
that:  "Little  things  make  perfection,  little  things 
mar  perfection,  and  little  things  are  the  greatest 
part  of  perfection  !  " 

Nothing  with  the  Japanese  is  too  small  to 
matter.  Look  at  their  paintings,  their  china,  their 
Satsuma  ware.  Examine  it  with  the  strongest 
magnifying  glass,  and  nothing,  down  to  the 
antennae  of  a  butterfly,  is  wanting.  Look  at 
their  mosaic  work,  their  inlaid  lacquer  work,  their 
metal  work,  their  iron  enamelled  with  gold  and 
silver,  their  embroideries  !  It  is  all  wonderful, 
and  of  its  kind  perfect. 

And  another  point  which  has  helped  to  make 
the  Japanese  so  successful  is  that  they  are  never 


134  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

satisfied  with  second  best,  and  before  deciding 
on  what  is  really  best,  they  take  good  care  to 
know  ;  they  have  far-reaching,  unsatisfied  ambi- 
tion, and  they  are  never  too  conceited  to  learn. 

They  are  the  very  opposite  to  the  Chinese. 
Progress  is  their  god,  and  they  must  always  be 
learning  something  new.  They  meant  their  army 
and  their  navy  to  be  second  to  none,  and  they 
have  done  everything  in  their  power  to  make 
them  so,  and  to  prove  them  so,  as  we  have  had 
ample  chance  of  seeing  this  last  year.  They  have 
not  only  sent  their  own  experts  to  Europe  to  travel 
everywhere,  and  to  find  out  the  very  best  methods 
of  doing  everything,  but  they  have  paid  the  highest 
prices  to  European  experts  to  come  to  Japan  to 
teach  them  what  they  couldn't  otherwise  have 
learnt,  and  they  deserve  to  succeed.  No  care  nor 
thought  has  been  spared,  and  no  want  of  money 
allowed  to  stand  in  the  way  of  the  advancement  of 
their  people  and  their  country.  And  they  have 
not  only  thought  of  the  outward  effect,  but  here, 
as  in  their  art,  every  detail  has  been  looked  into, 
and  everything,  down  to  the  smallest  strap  or 
button,  copied  from  the  latest  and  best  model. 

They  are  extraordinarily  gifted,  and  they  have 
great  virtues ;  patriotism  developed  to  the  very 
highest   degree    and    capable    of    any    sacrifice, 


RETURN    HOME  135 

thoroughness  and  infinite  patience  in  their  work, 
and  devotion  to  each  other ;  but  they  are  not 
Christians,  and  judging  them  even  from  a  pagan 
point  of  view,  their  standard  of  morahty  is  a  woe- 
fully low  one.  They  have  no  standard  ;  the  most 
rudimentary  morality  is  practically  unknown  to 
them,  and  yet  you  feel  people  capable  of  so  much 
ought  to  be  capable  of  more.  Why,  when  you 
are  looking  for  maid -servants,  is  it  not  only 
difficult,  but  impossible,  to  find  moral  ones? 
Many  of  them  don't  take  to  a  bad  life  naturally, 
but  are  forced  into  it  by  their  parents,  as  it  is  the 
most  paying  of  all  lives,  and,  finding  their  own 
race  not  quite  so  lucrative,  many  a  sobbing  girl 
is  sold  against  her  will  to  one  or  other  of  the 
numerous  houses  which  caters  for  the  supply  of 
foreigners.  Here,  as  in  everything  else,  the 
demand  creates  the  supply  ;  and  who  is  respon- 
sible? The  demanders,  who  represent  to  a  large 
degree  Christianity  and  civilisation,  and  who 
flatter  themselves  that  in  Japan,  anyway,  they 
can  do  no  harm,  as,  in  that  respect,  it  is  impos- 
sible to  make  it  worse  than  it  is  already  ;  or  the 
suppliers,  these  brilliant  untaught  children,  with 
their  overruling  longing  to  be  Western  in  every- 
thing, who  for  years  and  years,  since  they  first 
began  to  wake  up,  have  been  studying  the  lives  of 


136  AMONG   THK    HEAD-HUNTERS 

those  living  among  them,  the  representatives  of 
the  most  advanced  known  civilisations,  and, 
taking  as  their  models  just  those  who,  instead  of 
living  up  to  any  standard  of  their  own,  have 
thought  that  out  there  nothing  matters,  and  have 
lived  down  to  the  people  among  whom  they  found 
themselves.  They  have  thus,  with  their  pernicious 
example,  perhaps  for  ever  influenced  for  bad  the 
lives  of  possibly  one  of  the  greatest  nations  the 
world  has  ever  seen.  In  future  ages,  who  will  be 
responsible?  Will  it  help  anyone  to  say,  *'Yes, 
but  you  don't  understand  ;  they  look  upon  things 
in  such  a  totally  different  light  from  what  we  do, 
when  I'oe  were  the  nurses  who  tended  them  in  their 
infancy,  and  who  showed  them  and  taught  them 
all  they  knew?"  Surely  not!  And  work  as  the 
Church  may  and  does,  how  is  it  possible  for  it  to 
get  hold  of  a  people  when  the  lives  of  all  its 
known  members  are  at  utter  variance  with  every- 
thing it  teaches?  Should  we  ourselves  make  use 
of  what  was  said  to  be  a  great  privilege,  if  we  first 
had  a  chance  of  seeing  that  its  almost  invariable 
result  on  the  people  who  already  possessed  it  was 
cancer  of  the  worst  description,  and  of  just  that 
malignant  type  which  it  claimed  to  keep  away? 
Then  why,  looking  from  a  Japanese  point  of 
view,  should  he  become  a  Christian? 


RETURN    HOME  137 

They  are  also  great  liars.  You  can't  believe  a 
word  they  say  ;  and  even  during  their  war  with 
China,  when  all  the  Chinese  had  to  leave  the 
country,  they  had  to  make  an  exception  in  the 
case  of  the  Chinese  bank-clerks,  and  ask  them  to 
stay,  as  they  didn't  dare  to  put  their  own  men  in 
such  places  of  trust. 

Never  trust  them  and  never  believe  them  ;  they 
would  always  rather  lie  than  tell  the  truth,  though 
their  lies  are  often  only  from  excess  of  politeness. 
Directly  you  ask  them  anything,  they  at  once 
wonder  what  you  would  like  the  answer  to  be,  and 
then  they  try  to  suit  you,  even  though  they  know 
you  must  find  out  there  wasn't  a  word  of  truth  in 
anything  they  said,  in  another  few  minutes. 

They  are  quite  the  politest  and  yet  quite  the 
rudest  nation  I  have  ever  seen.  If  they  know 
you,  nothing  is  too  good  for  you,  and  they  don't 
know  how  to  abase  themselves  or  glorify  you 
enough.  They  bow  and  scrape  all  over  the  place, 
and  introduce  their  relations  to  you  as  if  they 
were  the  scum  of  the  earth  and  you  were  royalty. 
No  epithet  is  too  opprobrious  to  be  hurled  at  their 
undeserving  heads,  while  they  endow  you  at  the 
same  time  with  every  imaginable  grace  and  virtue. 
Even  two  poor  people  meeting  each  other  in  the 
street  bow  down  three  times  to  their  knees  before 


138  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

they  speak.  It  must  be  a  most  painful  way  of 
saying  "Good  morning,"  when  you  have  had 
rheumatism  in  your  back  ;  but  the  man  who 
looked  after  our  ponies  when  we  were  travelling 
went  even  further.  He  used  to  kneel  in  the  door- 
way with  his  head  on  the  floor,  so  intense  was  his 
respect. 

It  is  most  amusing  to  watch  it  all  ;  but  if  they 
don't  know  you,  they  are  far  ruder  than  anyone 
would  imagine  possible,  and  they  would  always 
rather  push  you  out  of  their  way  than  get  out 
of  yours.  A  railway  station  is  the  time  to  see 
that  part  of  their  character — best,  I  was  going  to 
say,  but  rather — at  its  worst.  When  the  train 
stops  at  some  big  junction  where  many  people 
are  getting  out,  those  who  wish  to  get  in  never 
dream  of  waiting,  but  try  to  scramble  in  at  once, 
pushing  and  fighting  their  way  against  those  who 
are  coming  out.  The  whole  scene  is  one  of  the 
wildest  confusion  ;  masses  of  people  locked  to- 
gether and  swaying  backwards  and  forwards,  all 
of  them  determined  not  to  give  in.  In  a  very 
short  time,  however,  everything  is  quiet  and  in 
order  again,  and  how  they  can  so  quickly  calm 
down  after  getting  so  excited  I  can't  imagine. 

Before  we  left  Japan  we  went  up  into  the 
interior,   which   was   very   interesting.     We   first 


RETURN    HOME  139 

went  to  Nikko,  where  all  their  grandest  temples 
are,  and  the  painting  and  carving  was  certainly 
most  wonderful  ;  but  we  hadn't  been  in  Japan 
long  enough  to  be  able  to  admire  their  absolutely 
hideous  statues  of  Buddha,  or  their  still  uglier 
devils.  They  are  said  to  be  "perfect  art,"  and 
people  rave  over  them  ;  but  then  they  rave  over 
Golliwogs,  and  like  them  they  evidently  want 
educating  up  to  to  appreciate  properly ;  and  with 
me  I  am  afraid  it  would  need  an  almost  hopeless 
amount  of  education,  impossible  to  get  into  one 
lifetime — ^judging,  that  is,  by  the  effect  on  me  of  a 
Golliwog.  I  constantly  hear  them  spoken  of  in 
the  highest  terms,  and  I  have  looked  at  them 
again  and  again  ;  but  I  still  fail  to  understand 
why  any  child  in  the  world  should  be  taught  to 
think  them  beautiful,  or  even  be  allowed  to  have 
anything  so  hideous  to  play  with.  My  own  child 
has  never  been  allowed  one,  though  I  quite  see 
my  feeling  about  them  shows  an  absolute  want  of 
humour,  as  anyway  they  are  intensely  funny,  and 
even  that  I  fail  to  see ;  but  after  seeing  the 
''perfect  art"  statues  at  Nikko  I  realise  that  a 
Golliwog  may  be  perfect  art  too  ! 

Nearly  all  the  people  seemed  to  be  Shintoists 
or  Buddhists,  and  the  priests  were  very  courteous 
to  us,  waving  a  sort  of  fly-whisk,  which  seemed  to 


I40  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTETIS 

form  an  important  part  of  their  devotions,  over 
us,  and  providing  us  with  soy,  the  drink  of  the 
country,  and  little  cakes,  without  asking  or  ex- 
pecting any  money  in  return. 

They  have  no  need  of  money  ;  they  are  well  sup- 
plied. A  man  who  is  thought  worthy  of  filling 
the  high  post  of  training  and  educating  others 
never  has  to  bother  about  his  own  bodily  needs. 
The  members  of  the  temple  in  which  he  serves 
see  after  that.  It  is  only  the  members  of  the 
Christian  religion  who  give  their  priests  barely 
enough  to  live  on  ;  it  is  only  with  us  that  it  is  pos- 
sible for  a  man  to  be  working  from  morning  till 
night  for  others,  and  at  the  same  time  be  starving 
himself. 

It  was  a  grand  country,  right  up  in  the  interior 
of  Japan.  We  hired  ponies  and  went  a  most  beau- 
tiful tour  through  mountain,  and  river,  and  lake 
scenery  ;  every  mile  seemed  to  be  lovelier  than  the 
last. 

Water  so  adds  to  the  beauty  of  any  picture,  and 
Japan  is  most  plentifully  supplied  with  both  lakes 
and  rivers.  Some  of  the  waterfalls  were  quite 
magnificent ;  they  are,  I  believe,  the  finest  in  the 
world  after  Niagara. 

The  inns  are  very  quaint,  quite  clean,  but  abso- 
lutely no  furniture.     I  shouldn't  at  all  mind  being 


RETURN    HOME  141 

a  housemaid  in  Japan,  as  directly  my  floor  was 
done  my  whole  room  would  be  finished,  and  no 
bothering  tables  and  chairs  and  little  cabinets  in 
corners  would  come  in  the  way  of  the  sweeping. 

You  are  supposed  to  sit  cross-legged  on  the  floor, 
which  is  covered  with  very  clean,  fine  matting, 
and  the  walls  are  made  of  the  same  sort  of  paper 
you  find  at  the  bottom  of  a  macaroon,  but  thicker. 
In  the  evening  they  brought  in  our  beds,  which 
they  made  up  on  the  floor,  very  warm  and  com- 
fortable and  clean,  but  I  don't  know  where  they 
keep  them  during  the  daytime,  and  they  had  no 
idea  of  bedsteads. 

Our  dinner  they  brought  in  on  two  separate 
tray-tables,  standing  a  few  inches  from  the  ground, 
one  for  Dick  and  one  for  me.  The  dinner  con- 
sisted of  seven  or  eight  courses,  each  one  on 
a  separate  little  plate,  of  which  raw  fish  with  soy 
sauce,  the  great  dish  of  the  country,  was  one.  I 
am  afraid  we  hardly  appreciated  it.  All  the 
courses  were  very  funny,  but  some  of  them  quite 
good.  We  had  no  knives  and  forks,  only  chop- 
sticks, which  we  got  to  use  quite  cleverly.  They 
brought  new  ones  every  time,  joined  together  in 
the  middle  to  show  they  had  never  been  used 
before. 

We  had  no  difficulty  about  baths,  as  there  were 


142  AMONG   THE    HEAD-HUNTERS 

numerous  boiling  water  springs  in  the  mountains, 
from  which  pipes  were  laid  on  into  the  villages 
and  inns,  and  the  bath-rooms  were  plentiful,  not 
like  ours,  but  sunk  into  the  floor.  The  Japanese 
bathe  in  almost  boiling  water,  which  is  a  good 
thing,  as  they  have  no  idea  of  shutting  their  doors  ; 
but  the  steam  of  the  water  is  so  thick  that  you 
can  see  nothing.  The  men's  bath-rooms  came 
first,  then  the  ladies',  and  you  were  evidently  sup- 
posed to  undress  in  the  passage,  as  the  bath-rooms 
were  very  small,  almost  all  the  space  being  taken 
up  by  the  bath  itself. 

A  Japanese  lady  went  down  to  her  bath  one  day 
at  the  same  time  I  did,  and  we  were  both,  as  I 
thought,  taking  off  our  coats  and  dressing-gowns, 
when  suddenly  she  divested  herself  of  every 
single  clo'  she  had  on,  and  handed  them  quietly  to 
the  bath  boy,  who  helped  her  down  into  her  bath, 
and  then  evidently  came  back  to  help  me  in  the 
same  way  ;  but  my  astonishment  had  made  me 
disappear  very  speedily  behind  my  door,  so  that 
I  couldn't  avail  myself  of  his  kindly  meant  in- 
tentions. 

They  provided  us  afterwards  with  toothbrushes, 
which  you  just  used  once  and  then  threw  away. 
They  certainly  did  their  best  to  see  after  our 
comfort  in  every  way,  and  we  weren't  there  long 


RETURN    HOME  143 

enough  to  feel  the  need  of  furniture,  only  to  be 
amused  at  the  want  of  it. 

From  Japan  we  went  to  Vancouver  and  across 
Canada  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  How 
incredulous  those  who  only  knew  the  Rocky 
Mountains  fifty  years  ago  would  have  been  if 
they  could  have  been  told  that  such  a  marvellous 
bit  of  engineering  as  the  railway  which  crosses 
the  Rockies  would  even  have  been  attempted, 
and  how  more  than  astonished  if  they  could  see 
the  trains  which  now  cross  it  daily. 

We  hardly  stopped  before  we  got  to  Montreal — 
the  tidiest,  best-built,  most  modern,  dullest  town, 
or  rather  city,  I  have  ever  seen  ;  and  two  or  three 
days  afterwards  we  sailed  from  New  York  on  the 
Campania.  We  had  very  rough  weather  across 
the  Atlantic,  as  well  as  across  the  Pacific,  but  we 
reached  Liverpool  at  last,  and  in  spite  of  the  dark- 
ness and  bitter  weather  in  which  we  arrived,  never 
was  there  a  more  welcome  sight. 


OTHER     EXPERIENCES 

CHAPTER  XIII 
ON   THE   WEST   COAST 

WE  are  now  on  the  West  Coast  of  Africa, 
right  up  in  the  interior  behind  our  Sierra 
Leone  Colony — not  where  Miss  Kingsley  ever 
went,  or  I  shouldn't  dare  to  write. 

Dick  has  a  central  base,  but  we  spend  a  great 
deal  of  our  time  travelling  from  place  to  place, 
as  there  are  only  two  Commissioners  to  look  after 
a  district  of  6,500  square  miles,  with — excepting 
the  railway,  which  runs  straight  through — no 
means  of  communication  between  the  different 
parts  of  the  Protectorate,  except  rough  jungle 
paths,  so  that  one  or  other  of  the  Commissioners, 
unless  it  is  the  rainy  season,  is  nearly  always  on 
what  is  called '' patrol, "/.e.  walking  or  hammocking 
from  place  to  place.  Riding  is  impossible,  as 
horses  find  the  climate  more  trying  than  even  we 
L  14s 


146  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

do,  and,  in  the  English  they  talk  out  here,  "no 
agree  to  live." 

People  at  home  so  hate  the  sound  of  the  West 
Coast,  that  when  I  am  coming  I  just  take  my  ticket 
and  slip  off  as  quietly  as  possible,  feeling  in  great 
favour  with  Dick's  relations,  and  in  just  the  oppo- 
site with  my  own. 

The  first  time  was  the  worst.  Everything  was 
done  to  stop  me,  and  some  of  the  arguments  my 
eldest  brother  used  before  he  gave  me  up  as  hope- 
less were  so  forcible  and  so  funny  that  they  make 
me  laugh,  however  low  I  am  feeling,  so  they  had 
one  very  good  effect,  though  perhaps  not  the  one 
that  was  meant.  One  of  my  little  nephews  was 
very  cheering  too.  I  told  him  I  would  answer  his 
numerous  questions  when  I  came  home  again,  and 
he  begged  me  to  say  "if"  and  not  "  when,"  as  he 
had  a  feeling  that  I  might  be  eaten  by  cannibals, 
or  killed  by  a  snake,  and  that  at  any  time  when 
I  came  in  I  might  find  leopards  ready  to  spring 
just  inside  my  door. 

It  was  none  of  it  encouraging,  but  more  so  than 
all  I  afterwards  heard  on  board. 

There  was  no  other  lady  going  down  to  the 
coast,  and  the  sight  of  my  fellow-passengers 
standing  on  the  dock,  waiting  for  the  tender  to 
come  alongside,  was  not  more  encouraging  to  me 


ON   THE   WEST  COAST  147 

than  I  probably  was  to  them.  We  were  a  very 
funny-looking  crew,  but  I  think  we  turned  out 
nicer  than  we  looked,  and  I  certainly  met  with 
nothing  but  the  utmost  courtesy  from  everyone, 
from  the  captain  downwards. 

People  sometimes  say  that  the  captains  of  pas- 
senger boats  won't  trouble  to  make  themselves 
agreeable,  but  that  is  not  my  experience.  I  have 
been  all  over  the  world,  and  have,  with  one  excep- 
tion, to  which  the  captains  of  the  Elder  Dempster 
Line  do  not  belong,  always  found  them  kindness 
itself.  I  often  pity  them  most  heartily,  and  unless 
to  start  with  they  have  an  angel's  temper  and  a 
very  broad  back,  I  would  advise  them  to  try  some- 
thing else. 

We  stopped  at  Grand  Canary  and  Teneriffe  on 
our  way.  They  are  lovely  islands,  and  the  Moor- 
ish-Spanish towns,  with  their  dark,  dirty,  pictur- 
esque people,  and  everywhere  fruit  and  flowers, 
have  a  fascination  peculiarly  their  own. 

Conakry  was  our  next  stop,  and  my  first  view  of 
the  coast,  a  pretty,  well-laid-out  town  in  French 
territory,  where  we  were  lavishly  entertained  by  a 
Greek  trader  who  had  stored  my  mind  with  rules 
of  health  on  the  way  out. 

Every  other  person  you  meet  out  here  is  kindly 
ready  to  do  that,  and  if  you  only  look  interested 


148  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

and  listen  quietly  you  get  the  most  amusing 
amount  of  contradictory  advice.  No  two  opinions 
ever  agree,  and  yet  they  are  all  given  with  the 
confidence  and  authority  only  found  generally  in 
an  undergraduate  after  his  first  year  at  college, 
and  judging  by  their  looks,  very  few  people  seem 
to  have  found  their  own  special  treatment  a 
success. 

The  colour  of  the  people  at  Conakry,  who  many 
of  them  try  to  combine  absinthe  with  a  West 
Coast  climate,  is  better  imagined  than  described. 

Finally  we  arrived  at  Freetown,  the  loveliest 
place  on  the  whole  coast ;  but  occasionally,  a  man 
arriving  there  goes  straight  back  by  the  next  boat, 
out  of  sheer  terror  of  all  the  evils  that  lie  before 
him.  Perhaps  it  doesn't  show  very  much  spirit, 
but  people  should  travel  on  the  West  African  line 
with  old  coasters  before  they  judge  too  hardly. 
The  one  idea  of  many  of  them  is  to  terrify  new- 
comers with  all  the  ghastliest  stories  they  can 
collect.  They  tried  it  on  me,  but  didn't  find  it 
had  enough  effect  to  make  it  amusing.  Some 
people,  however,  unfortunately  for  themselves, 
grow  pale  with  terror,  and  then  are  not  spared  ; 
and  the  worst  of  it  is,  so  many  of  the  stories  are 
true. 

The  West  Coast  has  a  great  deal  to  answer  for. 


ON   THE   WEST   COAST  149 

That  the  boat  I  came  home  last  with  stopped  for  a 
funeral  five  days  running  rather  speaks  for  itself. 
The  list  of  deaths  and  ruined  healths  is  appalling, 
and  it  often  seems  as  if  England  didn't  much  care 
what  happened  out  here,  as  if,  for  some  reason,  her 
countrymen  in  West  Africa  hadn't  the  same  claim 
on  her  as  those  whose  lot  is  cast  in  healthier  parts 
of  the  world,  and  as  if  their  services,  although 
carried  out  at  a  far  greater  personal  risk,  were  not 
considered  of  the  same  value.  The  best  that  can 
be  said  of  the  climate  is,  that  it  is  possible  for  in- 
dividuals to  live  and  be  well  out  here  if  they  take 
every  precaution,  if  they  don't  stay  out  too  long  at 
a  time,  and  if  they  never  come  back  after  black- 
water  fever,  and  not  too  often  before. 

Dick  met  me  at  Freetown,  and  we  were  invited 
to  Government  House,  where  we  spent  a  most  en- 
joyable week,  and  everyone  we  met  during  that 
time  was  most  welcoming  and  kind,  but  I  am 
thankful  I  don't  live  there. 

The  whole  town  has  a  stifling  atmosphere, 
physically  and  morally.  It  gives  one  a  cramped 
feeling,  a  longing  to  break  through  something 
which  every  place  abroad  or  at  home  always  gives 
when  there  isn't  enough  to  talk  about,  and  people's 
main  idea  is  to  find  out  the  weak  point  in  everyone 
else,  and  to  dish  it  up  and  serve  it  in  every  possible 


I50  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

way  till  the  staleness  of  it  sticks  in  your  throat. 
I  love  a  bit  of  scandal,  and  other  people's  failings 
are  often  most  amusing;  but  after  a  time  they  are 
quite  as  boring  as  a  constant  repetition  of  their 
virtues  would  be,  and  there  are  a  good  many 
people  in  the  world  who  never  seem  to  realise 
that. 

The  black  community  of  Freetown,  the  Sierra 
Leonians  proper,  pride  themselves  on  being  in- 
tensely English,  and  many  of  them  have  been  to 
England  ;  but  as  the  type  on  which  they  have,  for 
the  most  part,  moulded  themselves  has  been  that 
of  the  most  outre  'Arries  and  'Arriets — check 
trousers,  loud  waistcoats,  heavy  gold  watch-chains, 
and  the  latest  thing  in  ties  and  canes — the  result  is 
not  pleasing,  particularly  as  their  only  idea  of  an 
English  gentleman's  manner  seems  to  be  boisterous 
and  offensive  familiarity. 

Up-country,  among  the  native  tribes  in  the  in- 
terior, it  is  very  different;  you  meet  with  far  less 
education,  but  many  more  gentlemen.  Nothing 
could  be  more  courteous  than  most  of  our  chiefs 
and  head-men.  They  never  force  their  company 
on  us  when  it  is  not  wanted,  but  it  seems  their 
pleasure  to  do  all  they  can  for  our  comfort. 

The  Sierra  Leonians  look  upon  themselves  as 
the  same  as  us,  and  on  the  real  native  tribes  as 


ON    THE   WEST   COAST  151 

something  so  immeasurably  inferior,  that  they 
really  aren't  worth  reckoning.  They  would  be 
surprised  if  they  knew  the  absolute  contempt  in 
which  they  are  held  by  the  chiefs.  In  the  war, 
so  bitter  was  the  feeling  against  them,  that  if  it 
hadn't  been  for  our  army  they  would  all  have 
been  destroyed. 

When  we  left  Freetown  we  travelled  to  Moy- 
amba,  our  base,  by  the  new  railway,  which  passes 
through  most  beautiful  country.  We  started  in 
quite  respectable  carriages,  but  half-way  up  we 
were  turned  out  into  open  trucks,  and  an  awful 
thunderstorm  came  on,  and  blinding,  drenching 
rain,  so  that  in  a  few  minutes  water  was  swishing 
up  and  down,  and  we  were  soaked  from  head  to 
foot. 

We  were  a  ludicrously  miserable-looking  crew 
when  we  arrived  at  last  and  were  turned  out  on  to 
the  platform  ;  but  we  soon  got  in,  and  the  comfort 
of  a  bath,  and  dry  clothes  afterwards,  was  almost 
worth  the  soaking. 

There  is  nothing  much  to  say  about  Moyamba. 
The  Commissioner's  house  and  the  frontier  officers' 
quarters  and  the  barracks  lie  close  to  the  station, 
and  half  a  mile  further  on,  on  the  side  of  a  hill, 
running  down  to  the  river,  a  large,  badly-built, 
rambling  native  town  of  mud  houses.     I  like  it. 


152  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

because  everyone  living  there,  or  passing  through, 
has  made  it  so  particularly  nice  to  me,  but  other- 
wise as  a  place  it  has  nothing  special  to  recom- 
mend it. 

Dick  was  supposed  to  have  a  house,  but  the 
colony's  funds  were  too  low  to  allow  of  one,  so  we 
had  to  make  the  best  of  a  little  old  mud  hut  with  a 
very  airy  roof.  There  were  far  too  many  creeping 
things  already  there,  especially  the  small  kind  of 
centipede  which  when  squashed  made  a  bright 
phosphorescent  light ;  but  except  for  that  it  wasn't 
as  uncomfortable  as  it  sounds,  except  when  it 
rained.  But  the  black  doctor,  who  was  put  in 
after  us,  refused  to  stay  there,  and  declared  it  unfit 
for  human  habitation,  so  it  was  pulled  down. 

Dick's  main  work  is  travelling.  Most  of  the 
roads  are  just  rough  tracks  through  the  bush,  and 
as  the  natives  always  follow  one  another  like  sheep, 
and  never  walk  side  by  side,  their  roads  are  only 
broad  enough  for  one  person  at  a  time. 

Getting  about  is  not  easy.  We  have  hammocks, 
which  are  a  great  help  ;  but  constantly  it  is  too 
rough  even  for  them,  and  we  have  to  walk  or 
scramble  as  best  we  can  up  and  down  precipices 
and  through  swamps,  crossing  over  them  and  over 
rivers  too  on  all  kinds  of  extraordinarily  frail 
bridges. 


ON   THE    WEST   COAST  153 

The  three  principal  kinds  are:  (i)  Trunks  of 
trees,  often  slippery,  with  no  railing  to  hold  on  to  ; 
(2)  stakes  put  at  intervals,  crossed  and  recrossed 
with  sticks  or  thin  stems  of  trees,  which  are  con- 
stantly more  or  less  rotten,  so  that  you  have  to 
keep  all  your  wits  about  you  not  to  catch  your 
foot,  or  go  crashing  through  ;  and  (3)  suspension 
bridges  tied  with  bush  ropes  or  creepers  to  trees 
on  either  side.  They  swing  about  when  you  are 
crossing,  in  anything  but  a  reassuring  way,  and 
are  only  strong  enough,  in  some  cases,  for  one 
man  to  cross  at  a  time. 

The  single  trunks  are  the  worst ;  they  often  want 
a  good  head  and  a  certain  amount  of  courage  to 
tackle,  but  nothing  like  as  much,  as  people  who 
have  done  a  good  deal  of  mountain  climbing,  call 
nothing. 

An  uncle  of  mine,  who  goes  to  Switzerland  nearly 
every  year,  took  me  with  him  once,  and  I  shall 
never  forget  coming  over  a  glacier  to  a  sheer 
precipice,  except  for  the  narrowest  of  paths,  about 
twelve  feet  below  the  edge.  I  didn't  even  know  it 
was  there  till  the  guide  slipped  down  on  to  it,  and 
I  found  we  were  expected  to  follow.  I  was  simply 
sick  with  horror.  A  single  false  step,  and  we  should 
have  been  over  into  that  fathomless  void.  But  my 
uncle  said  it  was  nothing.     Beads  of  perspiration 


154  OTHER   KXPERIENCES 

did  stand  out  a  little  on  his  forehead,  which  was 
funny,  as  we  had  had  no  hard  work,  but  I  wouldn't 
tell  him  so  for  worlds.  It  was  ** nothing."  Then  all 
I  can  say  is,  the  dangers  of  West  Africa  are  less 
than  nothing,  as  none  of  them  have  ever  brought 
back  the  horror  of  that  precipice  to  me  ;  but  we 
certainly  have  to  rough  it. 

There  is  no  chance  of  a  man  whose  life  is  spent 
in  patrolling  this  part  of  the  world  becoming 
effeminate  from  too  soft  or  luxurious  living.  There 
are  no  comforts  of  any  kind,  and  there  are  some- 
times great  disadvantages.  For  one  thing,  except 
when  you  are  actually  on  the  march,  you  can't  get 
rid  of  people — you  have  absolutely  no  privacy  ; 
the  natives  are  determined  to  lose  nothing,  and 
your  every  movement  is  watched  with  intense 
interest,  just  as  it  was  in  Borneo.  It  helps  one  to 
sympathise  most  deeply  with  royalty,  who  can 
hardly  use  their  handkerchiefs  without  the  fact  of 
their  having  done  so  being  put  in  the  paper. 

And  for  another,  if  you  are  going  over  new 
ground  it  is  very  difficult  to  arrange  where  to 
sleep,  as  native  ideas  as  to  distance  are  most  hazy 
and  misleading.  *'  Plenty  far  "or  ''a  little  drag  " 
may  mean  only  an  hour  away,  and  "  not  far  "  may 
turn  out  to  be  several  hours. 

One  day  we  had  a  very  bad  time  of  it.     We 


ON    THE   WEST   COAST  155 

arrived  between  10  and  11  a.m.  at  a  village  on 
the  bank  of  a  large  river,  down  which  we  had  to 
boat,  so  we  stopped  to  have  our  breakfast  first,  and 
made  very  special  inquiries  as  to  where  the  next 
town  was,  and  when  we  should  get  there.  They 
told  us  we  ought  to  be  there  at  sunset,  or  anyway 
not  later  than  6.30;  so  off  we  started  in  a  large 
kind  of  flat  punt,  which  took  us  and  our  men, 
about  twenty-one  in  all,  comfortably  ;  but  the  sun- 
set, followed  speedily  by  darkness,  came  on,  and 
there  was  no  sign  of  a  town. 

At  last,  after  what  seemed  like  hours,  we  reached 
our  creek,  and  left  the  main  river  to  find  ourselves 
almost  at  once  stuck  fast  in  a  reeking  mangrove 
swamp,  and  even  those  who  had  been  to  the  town 
before  seemed  apparently  to  have  completely  for- 
gotten its  whereabouts.  They  soon  found  their 
memories  when  Dick  turned  them  out  into  the  mud  ; 
but  every  minute  seemed  an  age  to  us  sitting  in 
that  stinking  swamp  with  mosquitoes  swarming 
round  us. 

We  arrived  at  last,  though,  and  got  our  food  at 
about  10.30  p.m.  It  was  nearly  twelve  hours 
since  we  had  had  anything,  so  we  were  more  than 
thankful  for  it ;  but  we  have  gradually  to  get  used 
to  all  kinds  of  discomforts.  One  day,  when  we 
are   starving   for  our  food,    we   suddenly   find   a 


156  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

river  in  front  of  us,  with  the  only  visible  means  of 
crossing  it  tied  up  on  the  other  side,  and  no  one 
within  hail  ;  and  another  day  we  arrive  at  our 
destination  to  find  our  *'boy"  has  missed  his  way, 
and  that  he  has  taken  all  the  keys  in  his  pockets, 
so  that  we  can  get  at  nothing  till  he  chooses  to 
turn  up  ;  or  all  the  kitchen  things  are  upset,  and 
every  bottle  and  breakable  thing  smashed,  and  the 
contents,  which  we  have  no  chance  of  replacing, 
spilled  ;  or,  worse  still,  we  are  told  when  we  are 
far  away  up  in  the  interior  that  the  kerosene  is 
"done  finish,"  which  means  that  the  "boys"  have 
been  using  our  supply,  and  that  we  shall  have  to 
spend  the  rest  of  our  evenings  in  darkness  ;  all 
little  things,  but  they  don't  seem  so  at  the  time. 

But  patrolling  is  intensely  interesting,  as  it  is  a 
unique  chance  of  really  learning  to  know  the 
people  and  their  ways.  A  few  days  on  patrol 
teach  you  more  about  the  natives  than  you  would 
know  in  a  lifetime  in  Freetown  or  in  any  other 
place  where  your  friends  and  life  were  European. 

We  get  up  in  the  dark  so  as  to  get  a  good  part 
of  our  march  over  before  the  great  heat  of  the  day 
comes  on  ;  pack  up,  have  some  cocoa  and  biscuits, 
get  our  carriers  under  weigh,  pay  a  sleepy  chief 
for  our  board  and  lodging,  and  are  off  before  most 
of  the  natives  are  awake.     Later  on  in  the  day  the 


••  HAMMOCKIXr,        OX    MAIN    KOAU    IN    THE    i;L'SH 


A    SWAMP    BRIDGE:     OUR    MEN    IN    THE    DISTANCE 


ON   THE   WEST   COAST  157 

air  gets  used  up,  and  so  scented  and  heavy  that 
you  could  cut  it  with  a  knife,  but  in  the  early 
morning  it  is  very  lovely  and  fresh.  Everything 
is  bathed  in  dew,  and  when  the  sun  rises,  glisten- 
ing on  every  leaf  and  cobweb,  the  bush  is  turned 
into  a  fairyland  of  beauty.  There  is  no  romance 
about  a  cobweb,  but  out  here,  where  spiders  of 
every  size  and  colour  seem  to  vie  with  one  another 
as  to  who  shall  make  the  most  wonderful  design, 
there  is  no  sight  more  beautiful  than  their  dewy 
veils  stretched  across  the  path  with  the  first  rays 
of  the  sun  shimmering  over  them. 

The  bush  out  here  is  never  grand  like  the  jungle 
in  Borneo,  but  there  are  many  more  flowers, 
which  at  times  are  wonderfully  lovely,  particularly 
now  in  December.  The  rainy  season  is  just  over, 
and  they  are  all  in  their  first  bloom,  every  bush 
and  tree  adding  something  to  the  general  brilliance. 
Our  path  is  strewn  with  crimson  cups  which  fall 
from  the  trees  above  our  heads,  and  sprays  of 
a  lovely  feathery-white  flower  brush  us  as  we  pass. 
They  are  one  and  all  most  beautiful,  and  made  far 
more  so  by  their  background  of  dense  green  bush, 
relieved  by  palms  and  ferns  and  luxuriant  creepers 
of  every  kind. 

The  swamps,  too,  without  which  no  description 
of  this  coast  could  be  complete,  have  a  strange 


158  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

beauty  of  their  own,  particularly  at  the  end  of  the 
dry  season,  when,  beside^  water-lilies,  which 
flourish  all  the  year  round,  clumps  of  pure  white 
Madonna  lilies  spring  up  on  every  side.  No 
words  can  describe  the  grandeur  of  an  African 
marsh  in  the  early  morning,  the  sun  rising  in 
a  crimson  sea  above  a  background  of  high  forest 
trees,  and  falling  in  a  brilliant  flood  right  across 
one  of  these  vast  expanses  of  water  and  flowers 
and  rushes.  It  is  so  beautiful  that  it  is  pain  not 
to  be  able  to  realise  more  fully  the  splendours  of  it 
all.  Only  flocks  of  wild  geese  to  enjoy  it,  and  yet 
that  wealth  of  beauty  is  there  always,  day  after 
day,  year  after  year,  unseen  by  human  eye,  un- 
touched and  so  unmarred  by  human  hand  ;  the 
world  as  it  was  made  and  as  it  was  meant  to  be — 
quite  perfect. 

But  extremes  certainly  meet ;  the  only  other 
place  which  impresses  me  equally  with  the  thrill- 
ing sense  of  the  real  beauty  of  the  world  is  that 
much-marred-by-human-hand  place,  a  London 
slum.  Even  on  nights  when  hell  seems  most 
rampant,  when  flaring  gas-jets  light  up  drunken 
brawls — always  avoided  with  such  w^onderful  dex- 
terity by  the  police  ! — and  rough  boys  and  rougher 
shrieking  girls  run  riot  through  the  streets  hurling 
blasphemous  oaths  at  each  other — even  then,  if  you 


ON   THE   WEST   COAST  159 

watch  unseen  the  inner  working  of  it  all,  you  will 
see,  in  spite  of  this  hideously  jarring  exterior,  the 
most  touching  actions  constantly  going  on  all 
round  you — actions  full  of  the  deepest  sympathy 
and  the  purest  unselfishness.  What  they  were 
meant  to  be  is  still  there  : 

"  No  star  is  ever  lost  we  once  have  seen, 
We  always  may  be  what  we  might  have  been  "  ; 

and  a  window  over  a  slum  will  teach  one  as  much 
of  what  heaven  is  capable  as  even  the  sun  rising 
on  an  African  marsh  or  any  other  matchless 
tropical  scenery. 


CHAPTER   XIV 
ON    PATROL 

BY  lo  or  II  a.m.  our  march  is  generally  over, 
and  if  not,  we  wait  for  an  hour  or  two  and 
have  our  lunch  ;  but  as  a  rule  we  have  arrived 
at  our  destination  for  that  day,  and  we  come  in 
and  unload  and  settle  down,  either  in  a  mud  hut 
or  else  in  the  "  Barri "  or  Court  House  of  the 
village,  where  all  the  public  business  is  transacted 
and  everything  gossiped  over. 

The  one  we  are  now  in  is  an  absolutely  open 
round  shed,  except  for  a  four-foot  wall  which  runs 
round  the  greater  part  of  it.  This  comes  to  within 
eighteen  inches  of  the  dried  grass  roof,  and  the 
space  between  the  wall  and  the  roof  makes  a 
splendid  first  row  of  the  dress-circle  for  the 
people,  as  in  a  good  many  of  the  villages  they 
have  never  seen  a  white  woman  before,  so  there  is 
always  a  great  excitement  among  them  when  we 
arrive  ;  and  at  this  moment  they  have  just  found 
out  that  my  hair  is  light  and  long,  instead  of  black 

1 60 


ON   PATROL  i6i 

short  fur  (close  to  my  head)  like  theirs,  so  their 
interest  is  intense.  The  men  are  just  as  anxious 
for  a  front  place  as  the  women,  and  everything 
I  say  or  do  is  commented  on  and  every  movement 
copied,  as  if  I  were  an  interesting  mechanical  toy 
which  had  just  been  wound  up  for  their  benefit. 

Dressing  and  bathing  are  the  only  difficulties, 
but  we  have  quite  solved  them  now.  I  dress 
before  anyone  is  awake  in  the  morning,  and  have 
my  bath  at  night  directly  it  is  dark.  Our  boy 
prepares  it  all,  and  then,  when  I  know  where 
everything  is  and  am  quite  ready  to  jump  in,  I 
suddenly  put  out  the  lamp.  It  would  be  more 
unselfish  not  to,  as  it  is  dreadfully  disappointing 
to  my  audience,  but  in  this  case  my  feelings  have 
to  come  first,  and  they  don't  allow  of  a  light ! 

When  they  first  see  me,  if  there  are  enough  of 
them,  they  can  only  gaze  in  stupefied  astonish- 
ment ;  but  if  we  meet  two  or  three  of  them  alone 
in  the  bush,  the  mere  sight  of  us  generally  so 
appals  them  that  they  throw  away  everything 
they  are  carrying  and  bolt  for  their  lives.  The 
more  we  go  among  them,  the  better  they  get ; 
but  in  the  unbeaten  tracks  where  they  have  seen 
no  one  they  are  still  miserably  frightened,  and 
just  as  unprincipled  nursery-maids  scare  our 
children  with  stories  of  black  bogies,  they  scare 

M 


i62  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

theirs  with  stories  of  white  ones.  But  they  very 
soon  get  friendly,  and  bring  their  naked  little 
black  "pikkins"  to  be  admired.  The  pikkins, 
when  left  to  themselves,  are  generally  most 
friendly,  and  we  always  have  groups  of  them 
playing  round. 

In  villages  where  there  is  no  court  house  the 
natives  brush  out  a  mud  hut  for  us,  and  if  they 
wish  to  do  us  special  honour — which  happens, 
unfortunately,  rather  often — they  plaster  the 
verandah  with  fresh  manure  just  before  we  arrive. 
Well-meant  attentions  are  often  very  difficult  to 
appreciate,  and  that  certainly  is.  There  are  other 
little  disadvantages  about  mud  huts :  rats  and 
cockroaches,  spiders  two  or  three  inches  across, 
and  centipedes  insist  on  sharing  them  with  you, 
and  when  it  is  raining  you  may  wake  with  a  cold 
trickle  running  down  one  arm,  or  you  hear  the 
water  splashing  down  on  the  clothes  you  are 
going  to  wear  next  morning ;  and  it  doesn't 
improve  your  temper  when  you  leap  up  to  see 
what  can  be  done,  and  find  your  shoes  half-full 
of  water ;  but  fortunately  we  are  generally  so 
tired  when  night  comes  that  nothing  keeps  us 
long  awake. 

Directly  we  arrive  at  any  village  where  we  mean 
to  stay,  the  chief  or  king  comes  to  tell  us  "  How 


ON    PATROL  163 

do  !  "  He  then  goes  away  again,  and  we  may  hear 
a  tremendous  beating  of  gongs  to  ring  up  his 
head-men.  Anyway,  he  soon  appears  again  in 
state  attended  by  them  all,  and  bringing  chickens 
and  rice,  and  sometimes  a  sheep  or  a  goat,  which 
is  tugged  in,  much  against  its  will,  behind  them. 
While  they  are  all  trooping  silently  and  slowly  in, 
it  is  etiquette  for  us  to  be  quite  unconscious  of  all 
that  is  going  on  ;  and  even  when  everyone  is 
settled  the  chief  still  pauses,  and  then  solemnly 
tells  our  interpreter  he  has  brought  the  things  as 
a  present,  and  the  interpreter  repeats  what  he  has 
said  to  Dick.  Dick  then  says  "Thank  you,"  and 
the  whole  thing  is  over,  and  they  all  troop  out 
again,  which  seems  a  little  lame  after  so  much 
formality;  but  the  same  thing  happens  every  day, 
so  you  get  used  to  it  in  time.  And  then  there  is  no 
sentiment  about  the  present.  They  give  you  what 
they  like,  certainly,  but  well  knowing  you  will 
repay  them  for  everything  before  you  leave  next 
day. 

The  Timani  chiefs,  among  whom  we  now  are, 
are  very  like  Old  Testament  pictures  of  Aaron 
and  other  Jewish  high  priests,  and  their  long, 
white  or  coloured  robes,  and  their  staffs  of  office 
and  mitres,  make  them  look  strikingly  dignified. 

In    the    afternoon    they   come    back   to  discuss 


i64  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

affairs  of  State  with  Dick.  Hut  tax  and  slave 
questions  have  constantly  to  be  threshed  out,  and 
their  difficulties  with  other  paramount  chiefs,  who 
won't  keep  their  people  in  order,  and  will  allow 
them  to  make  farms  on  land  which  doesn't  belong 
to  them — "jumping  the  border,"  it  is  always 
called.  Cases  for  Dick  to  try  are  also  brought  up 
then,  and  the  way  the  people  perjure  themselves  is 
too  extraordinary;  you  can  never  trust  the  word  of 
any  witness.  A  man  takes  a  solemn  oath  on  the 
Bible,  or  in  native  fashion  by  drinking  some 
nauseous  stuff  and  begging  that  it  may  choke  him 
and  that  every  other  kind  of  horror  may  befall 
him  if  he  says  anything  but  the  truth,  and  then 
starts  lying  in  the  most  barefaced  way.  Even 
those  who  have  right  on  their  side  cloak  it  so  with 
lies,  that  it's  a  wonder  they  ever  get  justice,  as  it 
takes,  whoever  is  trying  the  case,  all  his  time  to 
sift  out  what  few  grains  of  truth  there  may  be 
from  the  seething  mass  of  lies.  A  man  taken 
unawares  just  occasionally  gives  a  true  answer, 
but  not  if  he  has  had  a  moment  to  think. 

I  was  very  angry  with  one  of  our  "boys"  one  day. 
I  wanted  some  strong  fresh  chicken  soup  in  a  great 
hurry  for  someone  who  was  very  ill,  and  I  went 
down  to  the  kitchen  and  explained  exactly  how  it 
was  to  be  cooked  :  it  was  to  be  made  in  the  most 


ON   PATROL  165 

extravagant  way,  as  that  was  the  quickest,  and  the 
point  was  speed.  Two  or  three  hours  later  I  went 
to  fetch  some,  and  the  cook  said  it  was  almost  done, 
but  not  quite.  There  were  two  or  three  saucepans 
on  the  fire,  so  I  asked  which  it  was  in  ;  he  showed 
me.  I  took  off  the  lid,  and  an  empty  saucepan 
met  my  eyes.  His  apparent  astonishment  when 
he  found  there  was  nothing  there  was  far  greater 
than  mine  ;  he  couldn't  get  over  the  queerness  of 
it.  The  chicken  hadn't  even  been  begun  ;  but  he 
had  so  worked  himself  into  his  lie  that  he  didn't 
know  how  to  give  it  up,  even  though  he  saw  he 
was  found  out. 

Black  races  certainly  have  a  rooted  objection  to 
truth  in  any  form.  There  is  a  crook  somewhere  in 
their  minds,  and  they  can't  bear  straight  ways 
of  reaching  anything.  You  can  see  it  in  every- 
thing they  say  and  do,  and  it  adds  enormously  to 
the  complications  of  any  law  case,  particularly  as 
the  police  themselves  are  all  experts  in  the  art 
of  lying  too.  It  is  no  good  being  angry  ;  they 
listen  quietly,  and  then  start  off  worse  than  ever 
again. 

The  trials  are  watched  with  intense  interest  by 
a  large  audience.  The  groups  of  people  standing 
round  are  very  picturesque,  particularly  the  native 
children  and  girls  with  beads  as  their  only  clothing. 


i66  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

Many  of  them  are  very  graceful  and  pretty,  but 
the  moment  they  put  on  clothes  their  beauty  is 
gone. 

I  suppose  the  Missions  have  to  teach  them  to 
wear  clothes,  because  apparently  people  get  lower- 
minded  as  they  get  more  civilised,  but  for  their 
own  sakes  it  seems  a  pity.  European  dress  only 
vulgarises  them,  and  robs  them  of  all  their  charm. 
If  missionary  working-parties  only  knew  what  the 
people  their  clothes  are  destined  for  looked  like 
when  they  were  wearing  them,  I  think  they  would 
be  really  sad ;  and  unfortunately  many  of  the 
natives  seem  to  get  an  idea  that  Christianity  means 
petticoats  pure  and  simple,  and  certainly  those 
who  profess  the  most  devoutness  in  Freetown  and 
are  jarringly  familiar  with  God's  name  if  not  with 
God,  simply  bulge  with  petticoats,  which  stand 
out  all  round  them. 

Father  Browne,  the  head  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Mission,  was  deploring  the  same  thing  when  he 
was  staying  with  us  last  year  ;  but  he  didn't  seem 
to  think  my  remedy  of  leaving  them  without 
clothes  practicable.  He  is  dead  now  ;  he  died  of 
blackwater  fever  a  few  months  ago,  and  only 
those  who  knew  him  can  realise  the  void  he  has 
left,  or  how  he  is  missed.  He  worked  unceasingly, 
and  did  all  he  could  for  everyone,  irrespective  of 


ON    PATROL  167 

creed  or  sect.  It  is  difficult  for  people  at  home 
to  realise  the  intense  loneliness  of  a  bad  illness  on 
the  West  Coast.  Sent  down  perhaps  from  the 
interior  to  the  hospital  in  Freetown,  surrounded 
by  strangers  who  don't  really  care  if  you  live  or 
die,  or  whether  you  are  on  the  way  to  heaven 
or  hell,  or  if  they  do  care,  take  the  lowest  view  of 
your  moral  state,  unless  what  appeals  to  them 
appeals  to  you,  a  man  like  Father  Browne,  full  of 
sympathy  and  understanding,  came  as  a  heaven- 
sent boon.  His  cheering  presence  often  charmed 
away  the  lowest  fits  of  depression,  and  there  was 
certainly  no  man  so  loved  in  the  whole  of  Sierra 
Leone  Protectorate  or  Colony. 

We  have  an  American  Baptist  Mission  and  a 
Wesleyan  Mission  as  well  as  the  Roman  Catholic 
Mission  at  Moyamba,  so  the  natives  must  be  for- 
given if  they  get  a  little  muddled  as  to  what  we 
really  do  believe  ! 


CHAPTER    XV 
IN   THE   BUSH 

ONE  drawback  to  this  Protectorate  is  to  be 
found  in  the  secret  societies  which  intersect 
the  whole  place. 

Two  of  them,  the  Leopard  and  Crocodile 
Societies,  offer  human  sacrifices  from  time  to 
time,  in  obedience  to  some  awful  superstition 
which  gives  good  luck  to  whole  districts  as  long 
as  they  contain  medicine  made  of  the  entrails  of 
human  beings.  When  that  is  exhausted  there 
is  another  murder. 

Everything  has  been  done  to  try  and  put  a  stop 
to  this  awful  practice,  but  so  far  without  success. 

The  members  of  the  society  meet  in  the  deepest 
secrecy.  Lots  are  drawn,  and  the  man  on  whom 
the  lot  falls  has  to  provide  a  victim  who  can  be 
taken  without  any  fear  of  discovery.  So  important 
is  this  part  of  it,  that  they  often  fix  on  wife  or 
child  as  involving  the  least  possible  risk.  The 
murderers  are  then  told  off,  and,  dressed  in  leopard 

i68 


IN    THE    BUSH  169 

skins,  they  hide  themselves  in  the  thick  bush,  from 
which  they  leap  out  on  to  the  unsuspecting  woman 
or  child,  digging  into  their  necks  a  horrible  little 
instrument  with  three  pointed  blades,  specially 
made  so  that  the  wound  they  inflict  should  ex- 
actly resemble  the  claws  of  a  leopard  ;  or  else 
they  imitate  a  crocodile,  and  lie  almost  entirely 
under  the  water  just  where  people  are  known  to 
bathe  or  pass,  and  then  when  the  unfortunate 
elected  woman  comes  down  alone,  they  suddenly 
grab  her  down  and  hold  her  under  water  till  life  is 
extinct. 

The  natives  themselves  are  sometimes  in  a  state 
of  panic,  knowing  there  are  members  of  these 
societies  living  among  them,  and  yet  not  knowing 
who,  or  whether  they  can  trust  their  nearest  rela- 
tions. 

One  woman  we  know  of,  though,  had  suspicions 
of  her  husband,  who,  the  lot  having  fallen  on  him, 
had  promised  to  sacrifice  her,  and  when  one  day 
she  was  sent  by  him  on  an  unusual  errand,  she 
kept  all  her  senses  very  much  awake,  and  the 
moment  she  heard  a  rustle,  and  before  two  leopard- 
like things  she  just  caught  sight  of  had  had  time 
to  spring  out  of  the  bush,  she  fled  screaming 
towards  the  village,  and  fortunately  the  people 
heard  the  shrieks  and  rushed  out  just  in  time  to 
save  her. 


170  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

All  who  are  proved  to  have  had  anything  to  do 
with  these  sacrifices  are  hanged,  and  the  Com- 
missioners do  everything  they  can  to  track  down 
the  culprits;  but  constantly  nothing  can  be  found 
out.  The  murderers  leave  absolutely  no  trace 
behind  them  ;  a  dead  man  tells  no  tales. 

We  were  staying  once  in  the  house  of  a  very 
enlightened  native,  close  to  the  scene  of  two  of 
these  murders.  He  had  been  brought  up  at  one 
of  the  missions,  and  went  in  for  being  a  very 
devout  Christian,  even  down  to  a  starched  shirt  on 
Sundays.  We  heard  prayers  going  on  night  and 
morning  with  his  family  and  household,  and  I 
believe  they  went  on  when  we  weren't  there  too  ; 
but  at  the  trial  he  only  escaped  hanging  by  the 
skin  of  his  teeth.  Some  link  was  missing  in  the 
chain  of  strong  evidence  against  him,  so  he  got  off ; 
but  his  guilt  was  a  practical  certainty,  and  the 
last  words  said  by  two  of  the  other  men  who  were 
hanged,  were  that  it  was  he  who  really  ought  to 
have  been  where  they  were. 

In  another  case,  a  native  Sunday-school  teacher 
was  the  instigator,  which  does  not  speak  much 
for  his  grasp  of  Christianity,  or  his  claim  to  be 
considered  a  civilised  member  of  any  community. 
They  are  improving,  however.  Cannibalism  has 
practically  disappeared  within  the  last  few  years, 


IN    THE    BUSH  171 

and  where  a  short  time  ago  all  was  chaos,  con- 
stant wars  going  on  in  every  part  of  the  Pro- 
tectorate, and  every  weak  town  living  in  terror  of 
every  stronger  one,  and  no  one  daring  to  venture 
unarmed  far  from  their  own  particular  stockaded 
village,  which  was  bolted  and  barred  every  even- 
ing at  sunset,  there  is  now,  since  the  rising  in 
1898,  peace  and  comparative  safety  everywhere. 
Before  that  time,  a  friend  of  ours  out  here  was 
begged  by  one  of  the  chiefs  to  come  and  follow 
up  some  cannibals  who  had  carried  off,  among 
others,  two  of  his  brothers. 

They  were  caught  red-handed.  At  first  the 
chief  couldn't  make  out  the  bodies  of  his  brothers, 
as  they,  being  large  men,  had  been  kept  for  a 
special  feast ;  but  he  suddenly  came  upon  them, 
and  when  asked  if  he  was  sure,  he  said  with  a 
sigh,  "Oh,  yes;  no  one  man  make  so  good  beef  as 
my  two  brother!"  It  certainly  was  a  most  pathetic 
thought. 

The  war  was  supposed  by  many  people  to  be  an 
unmixed  evil,  but  it  was  bound  to  come.  By 
putting  an  end  to  the  slave  trade  too  heavy  a 
blow  had  been  dealt  at  the  influence  and  power 
of  the  chiefs  for  them  to  sit  down  quietly  without 
a  struggle.  Their  principal  source  of  revenue  had 
gone,  and  they  were  only  waiting  their  opportunity 


172  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

to  shake  off  the  irksomeness  of  British  rule,  and 
return  to  their  old  manners  and  customs. 

In  1898  they  thought  their  chance  had  come, 
when,  there  being  no  revenue  from  the  Pro- 
tectorate, every  householder  was  ordered  to  pay 
5^.  a  year  towards  the  expenses  of  opening  up  the 
country.  Five  shillings  was  a  very  inadequate 
sum  compared  to  the  enormous  benefits  which 
were  being  conferred  on  them,  but  they  refused 
to  pay,  and  rose  in  arms  against  the  Government, 
being  backed  up  by  unscrupulous  and  influential 
Sierra  Leonians,  and  also  by  mistaken  people  at 
home,  who,  not  knowing  anything  about  the 
question,  thought  that  the  "poor  black"  was 
probably  being  put  upon,  and  the  ''poor  black" 
himself  was  so  longing  to  rebel  that  any  pretext 
served. 

The  result,  of  course,  was  war  with  all  its 
attendant  miseries,  bad  enough  at  any  time,  but 
always  worse  when  the  only  fate  which  lies  before 
those  taken  prisoner  is  torture  in  all  its  worst 
forms.  But  the  results  have  been  just  what  Sir 
Frederick  Cardew,  the  Governor,  predicted,  far 
better  than  the  most  sanguine  looker-on  dared  to 
hope  for — the  land  opened  up  to  trade,  and  peace 
reigning  instead  of  chaos  ;  but  too  many  histories 
of  the  coast  and  of  that  war,  some  of  them  more 


IN   THE    BUSH  173 

or  less  garbled,  have  been  written  already,  so  I 
will  only  say  I  wish  England  had  not  apparently 
so  completely  forgotten  one  or  two  of  those  who 
played  most  important  parts  in  it,  who  risked 
their  lives  day  after  day,  and  in  the  end,  when 
the  fighting  was  over,  stayed  on  in  the  Pro- 
tectorate to  do  the  most  important  work  of  all, 
the  resettling  and  pacifying  the  tribes. 

Dick  was  not  there,  so  I  can  speak  dispassion- 
ately ;  but  one  of  the  Commissioners,  who  has 
done  a  great  deal  for  the  service  of  his  country, 
and  who  years  ago  was  given  a  D.S.O.  and  then 
a  C.M.G.  for;  distinguished  service,  is,  after  ten 
years,  still  here  in  this  Protectorate,  still  in  "the 
white  man's  grave,"  and  earning  the  very  liberal 
salary  of  ;^5oo  a  year.     Is  it  adequate? 

The  climate  can,  of  course,  never  be  anything 
but  trying  to  Europeans ;  and  added  to  that,  there 
is  the  loneliness  of  the  bush,  which  on  many  men 
has  the  most  desperately  depressing  effect,  many 
of  them  after  a  very  few  months  of  it  being 
wrecks  of  their  former  selves.  The  very  general 
idea  that  drink  is  the  one  great  cause  of  all  the 
deaths  and  illness  on  the  coast  is  quite  a  mistake. 

Excess  of  drink  goes  on  here  as  in  most  coun- 
tries, and  its  results,  owing  to  the  great  heat,  are 
more  fatal  ;    but  teetotalers  get   ill  just  as  soon 


174  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

as  those  who  drink  too  much  ;  and  a  whisky  and 
soda  with  your  dinner,  after  the  sun  has  gone 
down,  often  staves  off  an  attack  of  fever,  and  does 
real  good.  I  don't  want  to  press  drink  on  anyone, 
but  if  people  know  when  to  stop  and  have  the 
self-control  to  do  so,  they  are  better  with  a  little  ; 
and,  anyway,  no  one  ought  to  be  entirely  without 
it,  as  after  a  snake  bite  whisky  is  invaluable,  and 
has  often  saved  a  man's  life  who  without  it  must 
have  died.  And  snakes  are  an  ever  present 
danger. 

In  the  last  two  or  three  weeks  alone  we  have 
come  across  five  or  six.  Two  of  them  Dick  killed, 
but  two  or  three  got  away.  One  of  them  startled 
me  out  of  my  wits.  I  was  lying  reading  in  a 
small  mud  verandah  with  my  back  to  the  entrance, 
when  suddenly  there  was  a  scramble  and  a  loud 
hissing  noise,  and  a  huge  lizard  sprang  over  the 
step  and  disappeared  like  lightning,  chased  by 
a  horrible  snake.  Its  head  was  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  lizard  and  of  me  when  I  caught 
sight  of  it  and  leapt  to  my  feet.  Fortunately,  it 
was  as  frightened  as  I  was  ;  it  just  raised  its  head 
once,  but  then,  to  my  intense  relief,  wheeled 
round  and  slithered  off  into  the  bush.  What  I 
should  have  done  if  it  hadn't  I  don't  know,  as 
I  hadn't  a  stick  of  any  kind  near  me,  and  it  was 


IN   THE    BUSH  175 

rather  too  long  for  a  stick,  even  if  I  had.  Two 
other  times,  when  I  have  been  indoors,  they  have 
fallen  almost  on  to  me  from  the  ceiling,  or  rather 
roof;  and  I  couldn't  count  the  times  we  have 
nearly  trodden  on  them  in  the  bush. 

A  woman  up  here  was  bitten  in  the  thumb  a 
day  or  two  ago,  and  before  we  had  time  to  give 
her  anything  she  was  dead. 

Our  guardian  angels  must  have  a  great  deal  to 
do  always,  but  especially  on  this  coast. 

Life  in  the  bush  certainly  has  its  drawbacks, 
and  occasionally  when  you  are  eaten  up  by  mos- 
quitoes and  other  poisonous  little  insects,  and 
centipedes  and  crawling  things  will  choose  you  as 
their  playground,  and  winged  things  will  buzz 
in  your  face  and  fall  into  your  food  when  you  are 
tired,  and  driver-ants  will  insist  on  marching  in 
an  army  through  your  house  and  taking  possession 
of  every  hole  and  corner  of  it,  killing  everything 
they  can  find,  and  making  you  fly  out  into  the 
bush,  perhaps  in  the  very  middle  of  the  night,  to 
escape  their  fiery  stings,  and  black  people  will 
smell  even  more  than  usual,  the  drawbacks 
weigh  very  heavily  ;  but  we  often  forget  them  all 
in  the  advantages,  one  of  the  greatest  of  which 
is  not  having  to  bother  about  clothes,  and  being 
able  to  live  in  short  skirts.     It  turns  walking  and 


176  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

travelling  about  into  a  far  greater  pleasure  than  it 
ever  can  be  in  England  after  one  is  about  twelve 
years  old.  And  the  cool  evenings,  sauntering  up 
and  down  in  the  brilliant  moonlight,  or  lying  on 
long  chairs,  revelling  in  the  stars,  which  in  the 
tropics  seem  to  stand  out  with  a  special  splendour 
against  their  deep-blue  fathomless  background, 
make  one  very  glad  to  be  alive. 

We  sleep  practically  in  the  open  ;  any  man  or 
beast  can  walk  in  and  out  as  they  like.  Cows 
occasionally  do  like,  and  I  have  waked  up  suddenly 
to  find  a  big  thing  breathing  hard  close  to  my 
mosquito  curtain  ;  but  leopards  and  other  wild 
beasts  which  abound  in  the  bush,  have  so  far 
never  come  near  us,  I  am  thankful  to  say. 

The  natives  never  dare  to  sleep  as  we  do  ;  they 
shut  themselves  in  every  night.  The  amount  of 
seething  black  humanity  contained  sometimes  in 
one  of  their  huts  would  certainly  frighten  me  far 
more  than  any  leopard  could  ;  but  I  always  feel 
you  are  just  as  safe  with  dangers  all  round  you  as 
you  would  be  in  the  quietest  village  at  home. 
Only  being  able  to  die  once  is  such  a  very  com- 
forting thought,  and  the  place  and  time  of  that 
no  amount  of  foresight  and  care  can  alter  by  even 
an  hour.  You  may  be  killed  by  fever,  disease, 
snakes,    wild   beasts,    and    by   myriads   of    other 


IN   THE    BUSH  177 

things,   but  only  by  one  of  them,  not  by  all,  so 
why  be  anxious ! 

Ordinary  precautions,  of  course,  everyone  must 
take,  of  which  vaccination  is  perhaps  the  most 
important.  Small-pox  is  one  of  the  greatest 
scourges  on  the  coast,  and  the  natives  have  no 
idea  of  isolation.  Any  village  you  come  to  may 
have  people  down  with  it,  and  the  very  hut  you 
sleep  in  may,  the  night  before,  have  had  one  or 
more  cases  under  its  roof ;  fortunately,  though, 
it  is  generally  a  very  mild  type,  but  nervous 
people,  with  germs  on  the  brain,  ought  never  to 
come  out  here. 


CHAPTER   XVI 
NATIVE    LIFE   AND   INDUSTRIES 

THE  people  are  very  friendly,  and  only  fail 
dismally  when  they  are  placed  in  any  posi- 
tion of  trust  or  responsibility.  A  man  may  go 
straight  for  years,  but  just  when  you  feel  he  really 
has  proved  an  exception  to  the  general  rule,  and 
have  begun  to  place  confidence  in  him,  you  find 
that  responsibility  has  turned  his  head,  and  that 
he  is  only  using  any  power  he  may  have  from 
being  in  the  employ  of  the  Government  as  a 
means  of  duping  the  other  natives,  and  extorting 
money  and  goods  from  them. 

Why  they  still  trust  the  Government  after  the 
way  they  have  been  robbed  by  those  pretending 
to  represent  it  is  hard  to  understand  ;  but  they 
have  mercifully,  through  everything,  kept  their 
faith  in  the  justice  of  an  Englishman. 

In  their  home  life  they  seem,  on  the  whole, 
happy  and  contented.  Men  are  the  drones  and 
women   the   workers,    but    neither   side  seems  to 

178 


ONE    OF   THE    RIVER    FERRIES 


NATIVE    VILLAGE 


NATIVE   LIFE   AND    INDUSTRIES         179 

mind  the  arrangement  ;  and  they  would  probably 
be  astonished  if  they  knew  with  what  feelings 
of  murder  we  pass  a  fat  man  carrying  nothing, 
and  his  wife  walking  behind  him  with  a  load  on 
her  head  heavy  enough  to  crush  any  ordinary 
woman.  But  the  heads  of  black  people  seem  to 
be  made  of  something  much  harder  and  tougher 
than  flesh  and  bone  ;  no  weight  seems  too  heavy 
for  them,  and  even  a  small  child  carries  a  load 
which  would  make  a  European  stagger. 

Their  principal  occupation  in  the  year  is  making 
their  farms,  which  consist  chiefly  of  rice  and 
cassada  —  a  root  from  which  tapioca  is  made, 
and  which  to  them  takes  the  place  of  bread.  The 
men  certainly  do  help  here,  by  cutting  down  and 
burning  fresh  bush.  This  is  done  every  year. 
The  same  ground  is  never  used  till  an  interval 
of  six  or  seven  years  has  elapsed,  as  the  earth  is 
so  poor  that  a  few  months'  exposure  to  the  rain 
and  sun  exhausts  it  by  washing  out  and  drying  up 
all  its  good  properties. 

The  women  then  sow  and  plant,  and  in  due 
time  reap  their  crops.  The  men  then  condescend 
to  help  to  harvest  them  ;  but  the  rice  has  to  go 
through  several  processes  before  it  is  ready,  and 
this  hard  work  is,  of  course,  left  to  the  women. 
They  first  thresh  it  out  on  the  ground  with  sticks, 


i8o  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

and  then  trample  the  straw  up  and  down  and 
round  and  round  with  their  feet,  till  it  is  all  soft 
with  the  constant  friction.  By  this  means  the 
rest  of  the  grain  all  falls  out,  and  is  collected 
up,  with  a  large  accompaniment  of  dust,  and  part 
of  their  daily  work  is  to  beat  out  with  huge  wooden 
pestles  and  mortars,  and  then  winnow,  enough  for 
their  different  families. 

The  surplus  rice  is  packed  up  into  hampers,  and 
sent  down  to  other  places  which  do  not  grow 
enough  for  their  own  consumption.  It  is  their 
main  article  of  food,  and  each  of  our  carriers  eats 
every  day  what,  with  milk  added  to  it,  at  home 
would  make  enough  pudding  for  about  seventy 
people  ;  so  they  need  a  good  deal  in  the  course  of 
the  year. 

Coffee  grows  well  here,  but  none  of  the  natives 
have  enough  energy  or  enough  knowledge  to 
cultivate  it  properly.  The  only  trees  we  have  seen 
were  covered  with  fruit,  but  had  been  allowed 
to  run  absolutely  wild.  The  women  and  children 
were  gathering  the  berries,  and  preparing  them 
for  market  by  sucking  off  the  fruity,  juicy  part 
round,  and  spitting  out  the  beans  into  a  heap.  It 
certainly  killed  two  birds  with  one  stone,  but 
it  wasn't  extraordinarily  appetising  for  those  who 
had  ever  bought  coffee  out  here. 


WOMEN    SPINNING 


MENDI    FISHING    GIRLS 


NATIVE    LIFE   AND    INDUSTRIES         i8i 

Some  of  the  other  products  of  the  interior,  the 
collecting  of  which  keeps  the  women  very  busy, 
are  palm  oil  and  palm  kernels,  kola  nuts,  and 
cocoanuts,  capsicums,  ground  nuts,  bananas, 
sweet  potatoes,  and  yams.  The  palm-kernel  tree 
is  the  most  useful  on  the  coast,  and  when  the 
machine  for  cracking  the  nuts — every  one  of  which, 
without  it,  has  to  be  done  singly — gets  better 
known,  and  the  people  realise  that  the  initial  sum 
is  more  than  repaid  after  a  year  or  two,  not  to 
speak  of  the  saving  of  trouble  and  time,  which 
so  far  counts  for  nothing,  the  trees  will  probably 
be  cultivated  to  a  greater  extent. 

The  natives  eat  enormous  quantities  of  palm  oil 
mixed  with  their  rice,  crushed  out  of  the  bright 
red  husky  covering  of  the  nut ;  but  there  is  a 
valuable  oil  in  the  kernel  too,  and  the  sap  of  the 
tree,  known  as  palm  wine,  makes,  when  freshly 
drawn,  a  very  good  and  cooling  drink. 

Kola  nuts  are  very  valuable  commercially,  we 
are  told,  but  from  our  own  experience  we  can 
only  answer  for  two  things  about  them.  They 
are  more  sustaining  than  any  other  form  of  food, 
but  too  nasty  to  touch  if  you  have  anything  else 
to  take  their  place.     The  natives  love  them. 

Another  work  in  which  we  constantly  see  the 
women  employed  is  preparing  and  spinning  cotton. 


i82  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

They  are  very  clever  at  it ;  they  look  about  them 
as  if  they  were  doing  nothing,  and  yet  never  seem 
to  break  the  thread.  The  cotton  is  then  used 
as  it  is,  or  dyed  blue  or  brown,  and  woven, 
generally  by  the  men,  into  narrow  strips  of  cloth, 
which  are  sewn  together  and  used  day  and  night 
by  them  all.  At  night  they  are  most  necessary, 
as  it  is  sometimes  very  cold  ;  we  have  known 
the  thermometer  go  down  as  low  as  49°  when 
the  harmattan  is  blowing,  and  that  at  quite  a  low 
altitude. 

Most  of  what  they  make  is  very  simple.  The 
ordinary  country  cloth  is  plain  blue  and  white 
lines,  but  now  and  then  you  come  across  real 
works  of  art,  which  have  taken  years  to  make, 
and  have  wonderful  figures  of  people  and  animals 
worked  into  them. 

Another  of  their  industries  is  hat  and  basket 
making  from  dyed  grasses  and  fibre.  Some  of 
the  women  do  them  beautifully,  but  they  are  all 
one  pattern,  so  they  soon  pall. 

Hairdressing  is  another  of  their  arts.  Their 
hair  grows  about  three  or  four  inches,  and  sticks 
out  all  round  their  heads  like  fur  ;  but  from  this 
they  turn  out  the  most  wonderfully  dressed  heads, 
and  sometimes  very  original  ones,  as,  unlike  their 
baskets  and  hats,  they  seldom  do  two  alike.     The 


*«. 


J'i^A' 


OUR    HOUSE    BEING    BUILT 


NATIVES    WHITE-WASHING,    AND    AFRICAN    HEN 


NATIVE    LIFE   AND    INDUSTRIES         183 

keynote  of  their  hairdressing  is  to  have  partings 
in  every  direction,  back  and  front,  and  then  they 
freak  their  fancy  about  the  rest,  puffing  it  as  much 
as  possible,  or  plaiting  it  into  the  very  closest 
knots  against  their  heads. 

The  women  of  one  of  the  Mendi  tribes  always 
fasten  a  small  silver  plate  into  their  hair.  Once 
done,  the  same  hairdressing  lasts  for  weeks. 
Their  brush  and  comb  is  a  small  pointed  bone  or 
horn. 

Their  clothing,  unlike  their  hair,  is  not  elabor- 
ate. Before  they  are  married,  beads,  and  after- 
wards a  straight  bit  of  country  cloth,  generally 
blue,  which  they  fold  round  them  from  their  waist 
to  their  knees,  and  fasten  in  front  with  a  quick 
little  twist  which  is  apparently  more  sure  than  any 
hooks  and  eyes  could  be.  The  strength  of  it  is 
really  magical.  They  always  carry  their  babies 
on  their  backs  instead  of  in  their  arms,  and  this 
little  twist  supports  the  whole  weight  of  the  child. 
It  is  quite  sickening  sometimes  to  see  small  girls 
left  in  charge  of  big  babies  prop  them  on  to  their 
backs,  throw  a  blue  thing  not  much  bigger  than 
a  handkerchief  round  them,  fasten  it  with  this 
little  magical  roll,  and  then  dart  off  romping  with 
other  children,  with  both  their  arms  quite  free  ; 
but  so  far  I  have  never  seen  the  baby  fall. 


i84  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

Some  tribes,  especially  the  Timanis,  to  make  up 
for  their  want  of  clothing,  often  have  their  chests 
and  backs  very  much  cut  about  and  decorated 
with  various  patterns.  They  go  through  untold 
agonies  to  make  themselves  beautiful,  as  each  cut 
is  poisoned  with  monkey-nut  juice,  so  that  it  will 
gather  and  leave  a  big  mark.  The  only  comfort 
one  can  get  out  of  it  is  that  their  nerves  are  not 
the  same  as  ours  ;  so  that  I  hope  they  don't  suffer 
to  quite  the  same  extent  as  we  should  under 
similar  treatment.  Their  seeming  callousness  to 
suffering,  even  in  their  own  children,  to  whom 
they  are  devoted,  is  quite  impossible  to  under- 
stand. At  home, though, there  are  sometimes  people 
who  put  on  roughness  to  hide  a  sympathy  too 
deep  to  allow  itself  to  be  tender,  so  perhaps  these 
blacks,  if  we  only  understood  them,  aren't  as 
appallingly  hard-hearted  as  they  seem  to  be. 

Far  the  nicest  trait  in  their  characters  is  their 
devotion  to  their  mothers,  and  the  honour  they 
pay  them  all  through  their  lives  from  the  first 
moment  they  can  understand.  Their  father  they 
may  like,  or  they  may  not ;  they  recognise  no 
duty  towards  him  ;  but  their  mother  is  something 
holy  to  them,  whatever  she  is  like,  and  no  one  is 
ever  allowed  to  breathe  a  word  against  her. 

One  evening  we  heard  the  most  awful  shrieks 


NATIVE   LIFE   AND    INDUSTRIES         185 

as  we  were  coming  near  our  house,  and  we  found 
our  "boys"  had  been  thrashing  a  small  boy 
about  twelve,  and  directly  we  appeared  they  came 
to  tell  us,  in  most  righteous  indignation,  that  he 
had  spoken  disrespectfully  of  his  mother ;  so 
Dick,  of  course,  said  nothing  except  that  it  served 
him  right.  Another  day  a  small  boy  was  sobbing 
his  heart  out,  and  at  first  it  was  very  difficult  to 
find  out  what  had  happened  ;  but  at  last  it  came 
out — another  boy  had  said  his  mother  had  a  big 
toe  !  It  was  a  relief  it  was  no  worse,  but  ap- 
parently it  was  quite  bad  enough. 


CHAPTER   XVII 
FETISH    WORSHIP 

THE  ordinary  religion  or  fetish  worship  of  the 
natives  here  is  very  difficult  to  describe  be- 
cause it  is  so  complicated,  and  because  we  really 
know  so  little  about  it.  You  try  hard  to  under- 
stand, but  every  new  thing  you  learn  makes  you 
realise  more  and  more  deeply  that,  until  you  are 
a  native  yourself,  you  won't  be  able  to  grasp 
properly  all  the  intricacies  of  their  mind  and  of 
their  belief. 

Wherever  we  travel  in  the  interior  we  find 
fetish  signs.  At  every  turn,  particularly  at  the 
entrance  of  towns  and  villages,  we  are  met  by 
mysterious  little  sheds,  from  a  foot  to  three  feet 
high,  inside  which  we  find  lumps  of  earth  and  an 
old  cracked  calabash  or  bowl  or  bits  of  cloth  or 
soft  white  balls  of  medicine.  Then  at  another 
point  we  come  across  bottle-whisks  arranged  like 
toy  water-mills,  and  at  another  huge  palm-leaf 
screens  standing  back  against  the  bush,  with  a 

i86 


FETISH    WORSHIP  187 

swept  clearing  in  front,  and  behind  an  ordinary- 
bush  track.  There  is  a  low  doorway  in  the  screen, 
in  which  no  one  can  stand  upright,  and  to  us  the 
whole  thing  looks  pointless,  as  anyone  can  walk 
round;  but  that  is  "Porro  ground,"  and  sacred, 
so  no  one  dreams  of  going  near. 

When  we  first  came  to  the  Protectorate  and 
asked  what  any  of  these  things  were,  the  invari- 
able answer  was  always  ' '  Porro. "  I  got  sick  of  the 
word,  it  was  so  meaningless.  No  one  seemed  able 
to  explain  it ;  they  always  spoke  as  if  it  explained 
itself,  and  dismissed  it  with  a  word  or  two,  as  if 
they  felt  that  if  you  couldn't  understand  a  simple 
little  thing  like  that,  you  must  be  short  of  intellect. 
I  have  found  out  at  last  why  they  didn't  answer — it 
was  couldn't,  not  wouldn't ! 

**  Porro  "  is  the  name  of  a  large  secret  society  of 
men  (no  woman  is  allowed  to  join),  branches  of 
which  spread  through  the  whole  Protectorate.  It 
is  the  ruling  vital  influence  in  native  life,  and 
these  screens  and  huts  and  other  to  us  meaning- 
less sticks  and  stones,  are  to  them  all  signs  of  this 
far-reaching  power. 

Their  one  idea  of  worship  is  an  abnormally 
powerful  devil  who  needs  propitiating,  and  the 
huts  are  built  to  protect  the  sacrifices  they  offer  to 
these  demons,  who  are  evidently  easily  taken  in  ; 


i88  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

anything  seems  to  do  for  them,  and  only  cracked 
and  useless  things  are  offered.  They  remind  me 
very  much  of  the  Chinese,  whose  idea  about  their 
devils  is  just  the  same.  They  are  supposed  to  be 
satisfied  with  three  things,  gold  and  silver  and 
men's  souls ;  and  when  a  Chinaman  dies,  his  friends 
scatter  gold  and  silver  paper  all  the  way  to  the 
cemetery,  so  that  their  devil,  who  is  evidently 
supposed  to  be  a  much  greater  fool  than  ours, 
may  run  off  with  that  instead  of  the  man's  soul. 

There  are  "  Porros  "  of  every  kind,  and  some 
with  good  intention,  though  there  is  an  enormous 
amount  of  rascality  mixed  up  with  it  all.  Any 
agreement  binding  two  or  more  people  together 
by  a  secret  sign  is  a  Porro  ;  but  the  whole  thing  is 
often  a  gigantic  fraud,  and  simply  a  means  of  ex- 
torting money  from  the  easily  taken-in  natives  by 
the  cleverer,  more  cunning  ones. 

Every  town  of  any  size  has  its  own  Porro  bush, 
and  its  own  Porro  men  and  Porro  devil,  counten- 
anced and  encouraged  by  the  chiefs,  for  whom 
they  form  a  valuable  source  of  revenue. 

Every  new  member  is  initiated  with  a  great 
flourish  of  trumpets  and  a  great  deal  of  foolery, 
and  has  to  pay  enormous  subscriptions.  In  the 
harmless  Porro  bush  the  boys  often  stay  for  some 
months,  and  are  taught  various  things  useful  to 


FETISH    WORSHIP  189 

them  in  after  life.  But  there  is  no  free  education  ; 
the  parents  are  all  made  to  pay  heavy  fees.  The 
guiding  lights  in  this  school,  whose  dictums  are 
never  disobeyed,  or  the  results  are  supposed  to  be 
too  awful,  are  the  medicine  man  and  the  devil. 
The  native  doctors,  in  and  out  of  the  Porro  bush, 
are,  some  of  them,  really  good  herbalists,  and  are 
much  looked  up  to  by  the  natives,  who  have  the 
most  extraordinary  faith  in  medicine  and  charms  of 
every  kind. 

We  met  a  woman  lately  who  had  come  up  from 
Freetown  with  a  dreadful  disease  in  her  face,  and 
our  doctors  could  do  nothing  for  her  ;  so  her  hus- 
band brought  her  right  up  here  in  the  interior 
to  one  of  these  "medicine  men"  to  be  cured 
*'  country  fashion,"  and  she  is  getting  better  every 
day.  Her  suffering  was  intense,  but  now  she  has 
absolutely  no  pain,  and  is  evidently  on  the  high 
road  to  recovery. 

For  fevers,  too,  some  of  these  native  doctors 
have  splendid  medicines  ;  but,  on  the  other  hand, 
many  of  them  are  awful  humbugs,  and  ascribe 
every  kind  of  magical  power  to  some  absolutely 
rubbishy  concoction  and  charge  accordingly. 

The  intellect  of  an  ordinary  native  is  just  like  a 
child's,  only  full  of  superstition,  so  they  are  very 
easily  taken  in.     From  time  to  time  a  few  scoun- 


IQO  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

drels,  anxious  to  get  money,  make  a  Porro  bush 
and  run  off  with  children  and  keep  them  it  may 
be  years,  till  the  parents  collect  enough  money 
as  a  propitiatory  sacrifice  to  the  devil.  He  then 
graciously  releases  their  child.  But  when  they 
are  first  taken,  they  are  bullied  to  such  an  extent, 
poor  little  scraps,  just  from  mere  devilry,  that  some 
of  them  die.  One  of  the  initiatory  amusements  is 
to  score  a  pattern  on  their  backs  with  red-hot 
pointed  iron  pins.  You  often  see  men  with  this 
marking.  The  father  is  allowed  to  come  and  see  his 
child,  but  the  mother  is  never  allowed  near  them. 
Her  fate,  if  she  ever  sees  the  Porro  devil,  is  too 
gruesome  even  to  be  known. 

One  day  we  heard  all  kinds  of  weird  cries  near 
a  village  where  we  had  stopped  to  get  our  food  ; 
every  woman,  at  intervals,  uttered  a  wailing 
moan.  We  asked  what  was  the  matter,  and  they 
told  us  the  Porro  devil  was  about,  and  that  that 
was  the  only  way  of  keeping  him  off,  as  he  took 
care  not  to  come  along  any  path  from  which  he 
heard  this  gruesome  noise. 

When  the  boys  are  in  the  Porro  bush  there  is 
an  extraordinary  superstition  that  the  devil  is 
pregnant  with  them,  and  that  at  the  appointed 
time,  always  coinciding  with  the  date  on  which 
the  last  of  the  money  has  been  paid,  he  is  delivered, 


FETISH    WORSHIP  191 

and  the  boys  go  back  to  their  homes,  where  they 
are  feted  in  every  possible  way,  and  the  devil  is 
supposed  to  return  to  the  spirit-world  from  whence 
he  came. 

Men  of  every  age  and  rank  are  admitted  into  one 
or  other  branch  of  this  society.  It  is  only  a  ques- 
tion of  money,  and  being  bound  by  certain  rules 
which  are  not  told  them  till  after  their  initiation. 
The  Porro  devil  is  supposed  to  be  not  only  all- 
powerful,  but  absolutely  invulnerable,  a  sort  of 
unappeased  monster  ready  to  wreak  an  awful 
vengeance  at  the  slightest  offence.  It  sometimes 
appears  in  the  villages  at  nights  attended  by  its 
court,  and  every  kind  of  ghastly  noise,  to  awe  the 
people  and  drive  the  women  trembling  behind  any 
covering  they  can  find.  It  then  gathers  all  the 
food  and  money  it  can  lay  hands  on,  and  dis- 
appears. 

Before  the  incessant  intertribal  wars  ceased,  a 
Porro  devil  was  sometimes  a  very  useful  institution, 
as  when  two  tribes,  sick  of  fighting,  asked  the 
chief  of  another  tribe  to  mediate,  he  settled 
matters  in  a  most  rough-and-ready  way  by  pro- 
mising to  use  Porro  against  the  side  which  fought 
next — a  no  light  threat,  as  it  really  meant  large 
bodies  of  his  warriors  let  loose  in  their  land  to  kill 
and  destroy  everything  they  came  across.     Now 


192  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

that  is  over,  but  in  some  parts  nothing  is  done 
without  Porro,  and  in  its  good  side  it  often 
seems  a  most  useful  institution,  and  one  which, 
unlike  our  institutions,  has  laws  which  are  never 
broken. 

The  terror  of  a  native  if  he  has  unknowingly- 
transgressed  any  of  its  laws,  is  extreme.  Men 
sometimes  work  themselves  up  into  such  a  state 
from  sheer  terror  that  they  become  really  ill. 
Porro  takes  the  place  of  our  vestrymen,  county 
councillors,  sanitary  inspectors,  police,  game- 
keepers, and  I  don't  know  how  many  other  author- 
ities, who  in  our  country  are  all  supposed  to  be 
working  for  the  public  welfare  ;  but  in  such  a  quiet, 
unobtrusive  way  that  it  is  difficult  to  realise  the 
power  it  wields.  A  bit  of  rag,  a  few  sticks,  a 
stone,  or  a  little  mud,  are  the  only  visible  signs, 
but  the  results  where  these  are  found,  are  :  water 
is  kept  uncontaminated  ;  trees  laden  with  fruit  are 
not  touched,  except  by  the  owner  ;  the  entrances  of 
villages  and  special  bush-paths  are  kept  clean  ;  fish 
is  preserved  when  necessary,  and  a  man's  property 
is  absolutely  safe. 

"  Bundu  "  is  another  at  first  unintelligible  word 
that  you  often  come  across  out  here.  It  is  also  a 
so-called  secret  society.  There  is  a  Bundu  bush 
as  well  as  a  Porro  bush,  but  the  Bundu  members 


FETISH   WORSHIP  193 

are  all  women  and  girls,  and  the  society  is  an  ab- 
solutely harmless  one,  with  no  political  importance 
of  any  kind. 

Every  girl,  some  time  between  the  ages  of  eight 
and  eighteen,  has  to  go  for  two  or  three  months 
into  the  bush,  where  she  stays  with  a  lot  of  other 
girls  under  the  charge  of  one  or  two  matrons, 
whose  business  it  is  to  prepare  them  for  their 
future  lives  as  wives  and  mothers  of  families,  by 
teaching  them  a  certain  amount  of  natural  law  and 
whatever  in  the  way  of  medicine  and  other  things 
is  thought  necessary  for  a  well-brought-up  black 
girl  to  know.  They  are  initiated  with  a  small 
more  or  less  painful  rite,  and  whitewashed  all 
over,  but  most  of  their  time  is  spent  in  dancing. 
They  go  through  a  course  of  most  elaborate  dancing 
lessons,  and  no  man  is  allowed  to  go  anywhere 
near  their  enclosure. 

If  for  any  reason  the  girls  have  to  change  from 
one  Bundu  bush  to  another  before  they  are  full 
fledged,  they  roll  themselves  in  mats  or  some  other 
covering  which  completely  hides  them.  It  is  a 
curious  sight  to  see  a  procession  of  these  very  tall 
mats  moving  mysteriously  along,  guarded  at  each 
end  by  a  stern  duenna. 

Of  the  other  societies  I  have  no  personal  ex- 


194  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

perience,  but  we  come  across  all  kinds  of  very 
quaint  manners  and  customs. 

This  morning-,  at  about  twelve  o'clock,  an  un- 
usual loud  chanting  noise  suddenly  broke  out  in 
the  paramount  chief's  house,  and  we  found  his 
wife  had  had  a  baby  at  about  4  a.m.,  and  the 
noise  was  a  song  of  joy,  and  men  and  women  were 
pouring  in  and  out  to  pay  their  respects  to  the 
mother.  We  congratulated  the  king,  and  asked 
him  how  she  was  ;  and  he  said  he  would  send  to 
see — which  sounded  funny  when  he  was  talking 
about  his  own  wife  ;  but  on  account  of  some  strange 
superstition  he  wasn't  allowed  to  see  her  for  three 
days  after  the  birth  of  their  child.  No  Timani 
man  may  go  into  his  own  house  for  a  week  after 
such  an  event,  but  they  may  all,  except  the  king, 
see  their  wives  out  of  doors.  The  messenger 
came  back  to  say  that  the  newly-made  mother  was 
up  and  walking  about,  but  she  didn't  feel  very 
well !  Poor  thing  !  I  wasn't  surprised,  but  it  was 
wonderfully  enlightened  of  them  to  let  her  have  a 
sleep  before  they  started  the  awesome  noise  they 
called  a  joy  song ;  that  alone  would  have  been 
enough  to  make  most  people  feel  ill. 

They  celebrate  deaths,  too,  in  a  peculiar  way  of 
their  own.  The  other  day  I  was  suddenly  startled 
to  find  an  apparently  raving  mad  woman  close  to 


TOM-TOM.MERS    PREPARING    FOR    OUTBURST    OF    MUSIC 


OTHER    NATIVE    CHIEFS 


FETISH   WORSHIP  195 

me.  A  little  child  had  died  in  a  hut  almost  op- 
posite ours,  and  it  is  etiquette  for  the  friends  and 
relations,  however  little  they  care,  to  sob  and  wail 
and  scream  for  hour  after  hour,  breaking  out  from 
time  to  time  into  the  most  awful  yells  and  shrieks. 
They  rock  backwards  and  forwards  and  throw 
themselves  about,  and  pour  earth  on  their  heads 
and  roll  on  the  ground  in  every  kind  of  filth.  It 
seemed  like  sacrilege  to  see  a  baby  child  lying  so 
peacefully  there  without  a  trace  of  pain  or  suffering, 
and  then  to  hear  these  raving  maniacs  round  it. 

They  go  on  at  intervals  for  two  or  three  days, 
and  how  their  throats  and  insides  can  stand  it  I 
can't  imagine ;  the  sound  alone  is  so  intensely 
wearying.  I  hardly  knew  how  to  bear  it  after  a 
time.  I  only  hope  it  comforts  the  mothers.  If  so, 
there  is  some  point ;  but  they  must  be  very  wonder- 
fully constituted  if  it  does. 

They  bury  their  dead  anywhere  they  like,  more 
often  in  the  bush,  but  sometimes  at  their  own 
doors,  and  in  the  evening  they  often  light  fires 
on  their  graves,  so  that  they  may  rest  quietly, 
untroubled  by  evil  spirits. 

The  funeral  is  accompanied  by  dancing  and 
singing  and  wailing,  but  the  celebrations  are 
often  put  off  for  some  months.  In  the  case  of  one 
very  rich  chief  who  had  from  two  to  three  hundred 


196  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

wives,  they  were  put  off  for  two  years  ;  but  then 
the  wives  gave  themselves  up  to  a  grand  time  of 
screaming  and  shrieking  and  grovelling  in  dust 
and  ashes.  It  must  have  been  wonderfully  com- 
forting to  the  departed  after  such  apparent  forget- 
fulness. 


T 


CHAPTER   XVIII 
A  CORONATION 


HE  crowning  of  kings  and  chiefs  is  accom- 


panied with  all  kinds  of  ceremonies  and 
curious  customs.  The  native  constitution  is  a 
feudal  system.  At  the  head  there  are  paramount 
chiefs,  either  kings  or  queens.  There  is  no  Salic 
law,  which  is  curious,  as  the  natives  generally 
look  on  their  womenkind  as  something  far  inferior 
to  themselves,  useful  beasts  of  burden,  or  slaves 
to  be  bullied  or  petted  according  to  the  moods 
and  whims  of  their  lord  and  master. 

Some  of  the  women,  however,  make  excellent 
rulers.  One  of  our  most  capable  paramount 
chiefs  is  a  woman.  All  native  affairs  are  brought 
to  her  court  of  justice,  and  her  decisions  are  very 
rarely  questioned  by  her  subjects. 

Then  every  paramount  chief  has  a  certain  num- 
ber of  sub-chiefs  who  are  responsible  to  him  for  a 
certain  number  of  towns  ;  and  they  in  their  turn 
have  head-men  under  them,  each  village,  however 

197 


igS  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

small,  having  its  head-man,  who  is  answerable  to 
his  chief  for  the  well-being  of  every  family  under 
his  charge,  and  for  the  payment  of  five  shillings  a 
year  for  every  house.  All  these  different  offices 
last  for  life,  and  then  are  filled  by  election. 

The  chiefs  are  entirely  responsible  for  all  native 
questions.  The  Government  interferes  with  none 
of  the  harmless  customs  of  the  country.  The  only 
rights  the  tribes  have  lost  since  they  fell  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  "The  Great  White  King,"  are 
those  of  making  war  upon  one  another,  punish- 
ments by  death  and  torture,  and  slave  dealing. 

Those  who  have  domestic  slaves,  if  they  are 
kind  to  them,  are  allowed  to  keep  them,  unless 
they  wish  themselves  to  be  set  free,  and  their 
friends  or  relations  are  able  and  willing  to  pay  the 
regulation  fee  of  £4.  for  them.  £4.  frees  them, 
but  in  most  cases  they  have  been  brought  up  as 
ordinary  members  of  the  family,  and  have  no  wish 
to  leave  their  home.  Cases  of  unkind  treatment 
are  very  few  and  far  between.  It  was  in  the  slave- 
dealing  days  that  so  much  cruelty  was  mixed  up 
with  it  all,  and  those  are  over. 

Dick  and  I,  after  a  great  deal  of  arranging  so  as 
not  to  arrive  before  everything  was  ready,  went 
up  to  the  crowning  of  a  very  important  black 
king,   but  we    were    too    soon.      The    twentieth- 


A   CORONATION  199 

century  bustle  has  never  touched  the  interior  of 
Africa,  and  no  European  can  help  being  too  soon. 
The  natives  first  think  about  thinking,  and  then 
they  gradually  come  to  think  about  doing  ;  but 
that  is  within  no  measurable  distance  of  taking 
any  definite  action — that  only  comes  with  time, 
and  time  with  them  is  much  too  dignified  ever  to 
fly.  But  I  think,  without  the  Commissioners  to 
urge  them  on  their  way,  it  would  often  mean 
eternity. 

After  the  chiefs  have  at  last  pulled  themselves 
enough  together  to  elect  their  future  king,  he  is 
sent  right  away  from  the  town  into  the  bush, 
where  he  is  shut  up  for  several  weeks  or  even 
longer,  to  prepare  for  his  high  calling.  One  man 
was  kept  away  for  nine  months,  and  in  the  Timani 
country,  anyway,  their  duties  are  instilled  into  them 
in  a  most  forcible  way.  Those  responsible  for 
them  pay  them  constant  visits,  ask  them  im- 
possible questions,  and  then  in  the  pidgin-Eng- 
lish they  talk  out  here,  *'  larn  them  plenty  sense" 
by  thrashing  them  most  unmercifully.  Their 
shrieks,  poor  things,  while  they  are  thus  painfully 
having  wisdom  instilled  into  them,  may  some- 
times be  heard  right  into  the  town,  and  the  same 
thing  goes  on  night  after  night.  Once  paramount 
chief,  they  will  be  absolutely  supreme,  and  can  of 


200  OTHER  EXPERIENCES 

course  never  be  touched  ;  so  the  chiefs  take  care  to 
have  it  well  out  of  them  first,  their  last  and  only 
chance,  and  the  poor  wretch  is  sometimes  terribly 
mauled  before  receiving  his  kingly  honours. 

For  a  nervous  man,  it  must  be  anything  but 
pleasing  to  be  elected  king.  They  have  to  stay 
in  the  bush  till  they  are  "pulled,"  which  means 
being  fetched  out  with  every  honour  for  their 
coronation. 

They  were  waiting  for  the  moon  to  be  exactly 
right  when  we  went  up,  but  the  whole  place  was 
in  a  state  of  the  wildest  excitement,  and  dancing 
and  singing  and  tom-tomming  went  on  without 
stopping  day  and  night ;  but  the  second  or  third 
night  we  were  there  the  future  king  was  pulled, 
and  they  came  to  tell  Dick  the  next  morning  that 
he  was  in  the  town,  and  would  be  very  glad  to  see 
him.  He  couldn't  come  to  see  Dick,  as  he  was 
still  shut  up  with  all  the  other  chiefs,  and  under 
the  strictest  supervision.  Dick  went  up,  but  soon 
came  back  to  fetch  me,  as  they  had  heard  I  was 
there,  and  were  dreadfully  disappointed  when  he 
went  up  alone.  They  explained  all  this  to  the 
interpreter,  and  asked  if  I  might  come,  as  some  of 
them  had  never  seen  a  white  woman  before. 

We  found  them  all  sitting  in  a  large  round 
barn,  with  mats  and  coverings  of  every  descrip- 


^''•f^Jl^y^' 


AT    THE    CORONATION 


MENDI    WOMEN    CARRYING    WATER 


A   CORONATION  201 

tion  hung  round  everywhere,  so  that  no  one  could 
look  in.  A  curtain  was  lifted  up  when  we  arrived, 
just  to  give  us  room  to  pass,  but  closed  at  once 
behind  us,  and  we  found  ourselves  in  the  middle 
of  a  very  picturesque  sight — chiefs  in  mitres,  look- 
ing, as  I  have  said  before,  just  like  high  priests,  in 
beautiful  flowing  robes,  and  amulets  hanging  from 
chains  round  their  necks,  and  staffs  of  office  and 
birch-rods  in  their  hands,  symbols  of  their  calling. 
At  their  feet  their  wives  were  sitting  all  dressed  in 
white,  and  gay  with  bangles  and  charms  of  croco- 
dile teeth  and  small  horns.  Then  at  the  back  of 
the  chiefs  all  the  head-men  were  standing  dressed 
in  their  best,  too.  The  central  figure  of  all,  the 
new  king,  was  the  only  one  who  wasn't  allowed  to 
be  dressed  properly.  He  had  to  wear  a  dirty  old 
brown  penitential  robe  till  his  coronation  was 
finished,  and  when  we  first  went  up  he  still  had 
a  few  more  hours  to  get  through,  but  at  the  end 
he  threw  off  the  old  dress  and  was  clothed  in 
brilliant  new  robes  quite  worthy  of  his  rank. 

Chairs  were  put  for  us  in  the  very  middle  of  the 
room  facing  the  king,  while  every  eye  in  the  room 
drank  us  in.  I  wondered  what  was  the  proper 
thing  to  do  ;  it  is  very  difficult  to  smile  and  bow 
to  a  crowd  of  staring  but  absolutely  unresponsive 
faces.  I  tried  to  break  the  silence  by  telling  the 
o  2 


202  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

king  I  was  glad  to  see  him,  but  it  was  evidently 
a  grave  mistake,  as  it  completely  turned  his  head, 
and  he  at  once  gave  me  the  greatest  treasure  he 
possessed — a  shilling  with  a  hole  in  it — and  pro- 
posed to  me,  and  entreated  Dick  to  give  me  to 
him,  and  not  to  take  me  away  when  he  left.  He 
said  he  would  give  him  anything  and  everything 
in  exchange,  including  his  wives  (it  must  have 
been  very  nice  for  them  to  hear  all  this  !),  as  he 
loved  me  very  deeply,  and  had  done  so  from  the 
first  minute  he  had  seen  me.  He  had  then  seen 
me  for  about  three  minutes,  which  accounted  for 
the  violence  of  his  affection.  Dick  smiled  and 
said  it  was  quite  impossible,  and  an  angry  mur- 
mur against  the  king  arose  among  the  other 
chiefs.  They  told  him  he  had  done  an  impossible 
thing,  and  given  very  great  offence,  as  my  having 
come  to  the  coronation  was  a  great  honour.  He 
then  apologised  most  ruefully,  and  was  forgiven. 

Soon  after  that  we  left  them  to  enliven  the  time 
with  eating  and  drinking. 

The  next  item  on  their  programme  at  which 
they  specially  asked  for  my  presence  was  killing  a 
cow,  which  was  done  with  a  great  deal  of  ritual. 
Funnily  enough,  I  refused  the  invitation.  It  is 
impossible  to  understand  a  white  woman,  to  be 
offered  the  highest  seat  of  honour,  close  to  the 


A   CORONATION  203 

cow  where  no  detail  could  be  lost,  and  actually  to 
refuse  it.  But  in  the  afternoon  we  went  up  to  the 
final  ceremony  of  all — the  presenting  of  the  king 
to  all  his  people.  It  was  a  wonderful  sight ;  the 
whole  country  around  was  there,  swarming  on 
every  side  of  us.  Every  available  inch  of  ground 
was  black,  in  the  most  literal  sense,  with  seething 
humanity. 

Our  men  ran  us  up  in  state  in  hammocks,  and 
formed  up  behind  us  to  the  right  of  the  king.  For 
the  first  five  minutes  after  we  had  all  assembled 
there  was  dead  silence.  In  all  that  huge  waiting 
crowd  there  was  no  sound  or  movement,  and  every 
face  looked  more  vacant,  if  possible,  than  the  one  on 
either  side  of  it.  The  silence  at  last  so  palled  that 
Dick  asked  one  of  our  men  if  it  was  all  right, 
or  if  they  were  waiting  for  him  to  start.  But  no,  it 
was  just  as  it  ought  to  be  ;  and  at  last  our  patience 
was  rewarded  by  a  chief  suddenly  rising  and 
walking  up  and  down,  solemnly  waving  his  birch 
rod.  We  had  reached  the  stage  when  any  sign 
of  life  was  refreshing,  and  after  a  time  he  spoke  ; 
but  he  had  only  one  idea,  and  although  that  was 
the  very  good  one  of  distributing  blessings  at 
intervals  on  every  town  and  person  he  could  think 
of,  it  grew  before  he  had  finished  far  more  weari- 
some than  the  silence.     Between  every  blessing 


204  OTHER    EXPERIENCES 

he  paused,  and  then  suddenly  woke  up  and  started 
again,  as  if  he  were  beginning  a  new  subject.  He 
did  that  part  of  it  so  well  that  for  the  first  half  of  his 
speech  we  were  taken  in  again  and  again,  but  the 
last  half  we  had  learnt  by  a  bitter  experience  always 
to  know  what  was  coming  ;  and  if  we  hadn't  had 
great  self-control,  we  should  have  entreated  him 
to  stop  and  leave  the  rest  to  our  imagination.  But 
the  women  clapped  their  hands  slowly  and  solemnly 
after  each  blessing,  which  encouraged  him  enor- 
mously, and  evidently  made  him  think  that  his 
forte  lay  in  oratory.  I  really  wonder  we  aren't 
still  there.  Our  interpreter  almost  mesmerised 
himself  to  sleep  with  the  constant  repetition  of  the 
same  words.  But  at  last  it  was  over,  and  when  he 
had  been  followed  by  one  or  two  others  in  much 
the  same  strain,  Dick  had  to  harangue  them  elo- 
quently for  a  few  minutes,  and  the  coronation  was 
over.  And  the  poor  king,  who  had  been  getting 
sleepier  and  sleepier,  and  had  hardly  heard  a  word 
of  all  that  had  passed,  was  released  and  allowed 
to  go  home. 

We  didn't  see  him  again,  for  we  left  next  day, 
and  he  was  evidently  too  exhausted  by  all  he  had 
gone  through  to  come  and  see  us  off.  But  the 
tom-tomming  and  singing  and  cake-dancing  went 
on  with  unabated  vigour,  and  we  weren't  sorry  to 
leave  all  the  noise  behind  us. 


A   CORONATION  205 

Tom-tomming — banging  on  drums — is  the  great- 
est institution  in  the  country.  It  is  impossible  for 
Europeans  really  to  understand  what  an  important 
part  it  plays  in  the  life  of  a  native  ;  it  appeals 
to  his  every  mood,  stirs  him  up  to  the  wildest 
frenzies  of  joy  and  comforts  his  deepest  sorrows, 
welcomes  the  new-born  baby  and  soothes  the 
dying  man,  and  forms  a  running,  cheering  accom- 
paniment to  every  action  in  his  life. 

Nothing  to  them  is  quite  complete  without  it. 
By  nature  they  are  very  lazy,  but  tom-tomming 
can  conquer  even  that.  The  building  of  a  wall  or 
house  strides  forward  to  a  drum  accompaniment, 
and  your  laziest  boys,  who  think  themselves  ill- 
used  if  they  can't  sleep  an  hour  for  every  minute 
they  work,  will  spring  to  their  feet  at  the  sound 
of  a  tom-tom  and  dance  different  figures  of  the 
cake-dance  for  hour  after  hour  if  only  they  get 
a  chance.  The  perpetual  banging  seems  to  thrill 
their  whole  being  into  a  yearning  for  dancing. 
The  whole  place  joins  in — from  baby  children 
who  can  hardly  walk,  to  toothless  old  men  who  go 
stumbling  along  in  a  way  which  is  quite  painful 
to  watch.  If  the  noise  stops  even  for  a  moment 
the  spell  is  broken,  but  they  generally  have  several 
players  at  work,  who  keep  on  even  when  the 
perspiration  is  rolling  down  their  faces. 


2o6  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

Every  big  chief  has  a  head  tom-tommer,  who  on 
all  great  occasions  has  to  lead  and  keep  all  the 
foolery  going  ;  and  his  place  is  certainly  no  sine- 
cure, as  they  generally  dance  and  sing  and  play 
all  at  the  same  time.  They  are  distinguished  by 
some  special  dress  of  feathers  and  grass,  or  some 
equally  suitable  material. 

Our  own  particular  chieftainess  has  a  set  of 
dancing  girls  she  turns  on  like  a  musical  box 
whenever  she  feels  inclined,  which  may  be  either 
in  broad  daylight  or  in  the  middle  of  the  night. 
They  dress  in  knickerbockers,  loose  grass  petti- 
coats, and  fishing  nets,  and  wear  extraordinary 
erections  on  their  heads. 

Their  dancing  is  really  wonderful  ;  their  Bundu 
bush  must  certainly  have  a  most  skilled  mistress. 
Three  boys  tom-tom  very  vigorously  for  a  band, 
and  a  good  many  whitewashed  girls  in  very  short 
petticoats  stand  round  singing.  Their  whole 
bodies  move,  as  well  as  their  feet,  with  the  most 
rhythmical  motion,  and  dance  after  dance  follow 
one  another  with  astonishing  rapidity,  and  with- 
out apparently  the  least  effort.  There  is  no  grace 
about  it,  but  it  is  very  clever,  and  the  faultless 
rhythm  of  every  step,  however  intricate,  is  very 
fascinating  to  watch  and  to  hear. 

I  tried  to  get  a  photograph  of  the  chieftainess  in 


A   CORONATION  207 

her  regal  robes.  She  agreed  to  put  them  on,  but 
her  temper  was  not  to  be  depended  on,  and  in  the 
middle  of  changing  she  suddenly  lost  it,  and 
appeared  in  her  old  dressing-gown  again.  She 
was  generally  very  pleasant  to  me,  but  she  could 
be  odious,  and  then  she  stuck  her  pipe  (which  was 
constantly  replenished  by  one  or  other  of  her 
maidens)  into  her  mouth,  and  refused  to  open 
it  again,  contenting  herself  with  occasionally 
grunting. 


EPILOGUE 

SINCE  writing  that  I  have  come  home  again, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  realise  the  other  part  of 
my  life,  which  is  now  being  played  alone  by  Dick 
in  Nigeria. 

Life  in  London  and  in  the  bush  have  so  little  in 
common,  and  this  English  Christmas,  surrounded 
by  friends,  is  extraordinarily  different  to  other 
Christmasses  we  have  spent  in  the  interior  of 
Borneo  and  the  wilds  of  Africa,  days  and  even 
weeks  away  from  the  nearest  white  face.  Last 
Christmas  we  were  in  a  lovely  village,  right  up  in 
the  interior  of  Africa,  with  an  old  chief  who  was  a 
great  humbug  ;  but  I  am  not  inclined  to  dwell  on 
that,  as  he  had  built  us  a  most  fascinating  bunga- 
low, the  greater  part  of  which  was  just  an  open 
shady  verandah,  and — luxury  of  luxuries — a  wooden 
floor.  No  one  knows  what  that  means  till  they  have 
tried  living  week  after  week  in  mud  huts,  with  no 
furniture  and  nowhere  to  put  anything,  except 
perhaps  a  freshly-manured  floor.  We  enjoyed 
ourselves  very  much  ;    but  it  is  certainly  a  relief 

208 


EPILOGUE  209 

sometimes,  when  Dick  is  at  home  too,  to  be  in  a 
country  where  the  scenery  may  not  be  so  beautiful, 
but  where  a  loaded  revolver,  always  within  reach, 
is  not  a  necessity.  But  of  all  things  a  Sunday 
abroad  stands  out  in  most  striking  contrast  to  a 
Sunday  at  home.  Here  in  England,  whether  in 
town  or  country,  there  is  no  chance  of  missing 
Sunday  altogether,  and  everyone  celebrates  it  in 
some  way,  either  with  extra  work  or  extra  plea- 
sure or  extra  rest ;  but  in  the  bush  all  the  seven 
days  are  alike.  Work  goes  on  on  Sundays  the 
same  as  weekdays.  Of  course,  I  mean  up  in  the 
interior,  not  where  Government  stations  and  any 
kind  of  church  exists  ;  in  that  case  the  one  shuts 
and  the  other  opens. 

It  is  wonderful  the  different  phases  of  religion 
you  see  when  you  are  travelling  —  everyone 
working  for  the  same  end,  and  yet  no  two  places 
ever  using  the  same  methods,  and  many  of  them 
unfortunately  feeling  most  bitter  to  those  who 
dare  to  think  differently  from  their  own,  perhaps 
devoted,  but  extraordinarily  narrow  creed.  That 
kind  of  feeling  must  be  so  very  confusing  to  a 
native's  mind,  if  he  has  begun  to  grasp  even  the 
most  rudimentary  elements  of  real  Christianity. 

Sometimes,  certainly,  we  seemed  to  agree  to  drop 
our  differences.    I  was  asked  one  Sunday  on  board 


2IO  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

ship  to  play  Ancient  and  Modern  Hymns  for  a 
service  taken  by  the  head  of  the  American  Baptist 
Church — a  dear  old  man,  very  charitable  and  kind, 
who  didn't  for  a  moment  try  to  make  out  we  were 
all  necessarily  going  to  the  bad  because  we  were 
on  our  way  to  the  West  Coast.  We  were  a  very 
large  and  extraordinarily  varied  congregation  of 
every  communion  and  sect,  no  two  opinions 
probably  quite  agreeing.  On  the  seat  opposite 
to  me  were  two  Anglican  Church,  one  Roman 
Church,  and  three  very  extreme  Faith-healers, 
who  groaned  audibly  from  time  to  time  as  if  they 
were  in  very  bad  pain. 

The  next  Sunday  we  were  up  in  the  interior, 
and  I  was  asked  by  a  friend  of  ours,  the  priest  in 
charge,  to  play  at  mass.  Our  congregation  there 
was  entirely  black.  The  Sunday  after,  or  rather 
the  next  Saturday  night,  we  had  arrived  in  the 
Mahometan  region,  and  we  had  just  settled  in  for 
the  night,  when  they  started  a  very  impressive 
service  in  the  open  court  house  joining  on  to  our 
verandah.  It  consisted  for  the  most  part  in 
solemn  chants,  which  were  most  beautiful,  as  the 
men  all  took  parts,  and  I  have  never  heard  more 
perfect  harmony.  But  I  must  encroach  no  longer 
on  your  time,  though  before  I  stop  I  would  like 
to  ask  those  who  have  relations  in  far-off  lands  to 


EPILOGUE  211 

write  to  them  more  often,  and  not  to  feel  that  a 
foreign  letter  must  necessarily  be  a  far  greater 
undertaking  than  an  ordinary  letter  at  home,  and 
so  a  thing  to  be  dreaded  and  put  off  from  week 
to  week  till  there  is  something  important  to  say. 
The  merest  scrap  would  do  good  they  little  dream 
of,  and  the  want  of  it  is  often  more  crushingly 
disappointing  than  it  is  possible  for  anyone 
living  under  such  totally  different  conditions  as 
we  do  at  home  to  realise.  I  speak  with  feeling, 
though  letters,  I  am  grateful  to  say,  poured  in  on 
me  ;  but  even  I  never  had  as  many  as  I  wanted. 
And  yet  I  felt  ashamed  of  my  good  luck  when 
other  people,  men  who  had  been  equally  longing 
for  the  mail,  saw  it  arrive  with  nothing  for  them. 
You  will  think  it  foolish,  perhaps,  to  try  to  make  a 
tragedy  over  such  trivialities,  but  out  there  it  is  no 
triviality.  I  speak  from  many  years'  experience. 
You  may  think  your  own  special  relations  don't 
care  about  letters.  They  perhaps  didn't  in  England, 
but  they  hadn't  then  tried  being  divided  from  all 
their  people  by  a  few  odd  thousand  miles  of  sea, 
and  a  few  weeks  of  land  added  on  to  that ;  and  they 
hadn't  then  spent  month  after  month,  many  of 
them  totally  alone,  with  a  fortnightly  mail-carrier 
from  headquarters  their  only  link  with  the  outer 
world.    They  count  the  hours  till  the  mail  arrives, 


212  OTHER   EXPERIENCES 

and  hail  the  carrier  as  their  best  friend,  to  find 
what,  inside  his  bag?  Nothing  but  a  few  blue 
forms,  a  few  red-tapey  notes,  little  to  do  with  any 
point,  and  a  request  to  explain  some  small  detail 
which  was  already  patent !  Can't  people  at  home 
realise  how  crushing  a  mail  like  this  is?  I  have 
never  yet  seen  any  man  who  didn't  jump  at  a 
letter  from  home  ;  and  if  there  are  any  out  there 
who  have  no  home,  they  must  have  distant 
cousins  many  times  removed,  or  friends  who 
could  occasionally  show  them  that  someone  in 
England  cares  whether  they  are  dead  or  living. 
The  climate  is  depressing  enough  without  un- 
necessary disappointments,  and  if  people  in 
England  only  realised  a  hundredth  part  of  the 
good  a  letter  from  home  does,  especially  after 
a  go  of  fever,  which  on  the  West  Coast  is  unfor- 
tunately a  very  common  incident  in  men's  lives, 
they  would,  I  know,  write  oftener,  even  if  their 
only  news  is  that  they  have  nothing  to  say. 


PLYMOUTH 
WILLIAM    BRENDON   AND   SON,    LIMITED 
PRINTERS 


%  Classiftetr  Catalogue 

OF  WORKS  IN 

GENERAL     LITERATURE 

PUBLISHED  BY 

LONGMANS,    GREEN,    c^-   CO., 

39  PATERNOSTER  ROW,  LONDON,  E.G. 
91  AND  93  FIFTH  AVENUE,  NEW. YORK,  and  32  HORNBY  ROAD,  BOMBAY. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Badmia'tox  Library  (The)  .     16 

Biography,  Personal  Memoirs, 

Etc 11 

Children's  Books       .         .         .38 
Classical    Literature,  Trans- 
lations, Etc.    .         .         .         .27 
Cookery,     Domestic     Manage- 
ment, Etc 43 

Evolution,  Anthropology,  Etc.  25 
Fiction,  Humour,  Etc.  .  .  30 
Fine  Arts  (The)  and  Music  .  44 
FvR,  Feather  AND  Fin  Series  .  18 
History,  Politics,  Polity,  Po- 
litical Memoirs,  Etc.  .  .  1 
Language,  History  and  Science 

OF 25 

Logic,    Rhetoric,  Psychology, 

Etc 20 

Mental,  Moral  and  Political 
Philosophy      .        .        .        .20 


Military  and  Naval  History 
AND  Science     . 

Miscellaneous  and  Critical 
Works      .... 

Poetry  and  the  Drama 

Political  Economy  and  Eco 
nomics       .... 

Popular  Science 

Religion,  The  Science  of 

SiLi^ER  Library  (The) 
Sport  and  Pastime 

s  tonyhurs  t  philosophic  a  l 
Series       .... 

Travel  and  Adventure,  the 
Colonies,  Etc. 

Wampum  Library  (The)  of 
American  Literature    . 

Works  of  Reference 


45 

28 

24 
35 
26 
40 
16 

23 
14 

48 
37 


History,   Politics,   Polity,   Political  Memoirs,  etc. 


ACLAND     and    RANSOME.  —  A 

HANDBOOK  IN  OUTLINE  OF  THE 
political  HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND 
TO  1901.  Chronologically  Arranged.  By 
the  Right  Hon.  A.  H.  Dyke  Acland,  and 
Cyril  Ransome,  M.A.    Crown  8vo,  6s. 

ALSTON.  —  MODERN  CONSTI- 
TUTIONS IN  OUTLINE;  an  Introductory 
Study  in  Political  Science.  By  Leonard 
Alsto.n,  M.X,  Trinity  College,  Melbourne; 
B.A  ,  Christ's  College,  Cambridge;  Deputy 
Professor  of  History,  Elphinstone  College, 
J3o[»baj.     C.rpwn  8vp.-  2s.  6(/.  net. 


AIRY.— CHARLES  11.     By  Osmund 

.4iRV,    LL.D.,    M.A.        With    Photogravure 
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ASHLEY  (W.  JO- 


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CREIGHTON  (Mandell,  late  Lord 

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QUEEN       ELIZABETH.        With 

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ENGLISH       CONSTITUTIONAL       HIS- 
TORY.    By    Lucv    Dai.r,  late   Scholar  of        ENGLISH      SEAMEN      IN      THE 

SIXTEHNTH  CENTURY. 

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Regius  Professor  of  Modern  History  in  the 
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Atlas  to  the  above.    With  65  Maps 
in  colour.     8vo,  6s.  6d. 


FROUDE  (James  A.). 
THE    HISTORY  OF   ENGLAND, 

from  the  Fall  of  Wolsey  to  the  Defeat  of 
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GARDINER 

D.C.L.,  LL.D.). 


(Sa.muel      Rawson, 


HISTORY    OF    ENGLAND,    from 

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A  HISTORY  OF  THE  COMMON- 
WEALTH AND  THE  PROTECTOR- 
ATE. 1649-1656.  4  vols.  Crown  Svo,  5s, 
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CROMWELL'S   PLACE  IN   HIS- 

TORY.  Founded  on  Six  Lectures  de- 
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OLIVER  CROMWELL.  With 
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(THli)SPHKCHliS  :  lieinj- a  Selection  trom 
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GERMAN        EMPIRE        (THE) 

OF  TO-DAY  :  Outlines  of  its  Formation 
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GRAHAM.— ROMAN    AFRICA: 

.■\n  Outline  of  the  History  of  the  Roman 
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GREVILLE.— A    JOURNAL     OF 

THE  REIGNS  OF  KING  GEORGE  IV., 
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GROSS.— THE     SOURCES     AND 

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HART.— ACTUAL  GOVERN 
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HAWTREY.— ASHORTHISTORY 

OF  GERMANY.  By  Mrs.  H.  C.  Hawtrey. 
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H  I  L  L.— THREE     FRENCHMEN 

IN  BENGAL;  or,  The  Commercial  Ruin 
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THE  SUI'PRESSION  OF  THE 
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JAMES  II.— THE  ADVENTURES 
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HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND  IN  THE 
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LIEVEN.     LETTERS  OF  DORO-    MACAU  LAY  (Lord) -cr)«//);»(rf. 

rUliA.  I'KINCHSS  LIKVKN,  DUKINO 
HKK  KHSIDKNCE  IN  LONOON,  \Wl- 
1834.  Edited  by  Lionel  G.  Robinson. 
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LOWELL.  —  GOVERNMENTS 

AND  PAKTIKS  IN  CONTINENTAL 
HUKOPE.  By  A.  Lawkknce  Lowei.i.. 
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MACAULAY  (Lord). 

THE     LIFE    AND    WORKS    OF 

LORD  MACAULAY. 
^  Edinburiih'  Edition.     10  vols.    8vo, 


6s.  each. 
Vols.  I.-IV. 


History  of  England. 


Vols.  V.-VII.  Essays,  Biographies, 

Indian  Penal  Code,  Contributions  to 
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BEARDS  LEY.— THE       LAST 

LETTERS  OF   AUBREY    BEARDSLEY. 

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burgh.   Crown  Svo,  5s.  net. 


CARLYLE  (Thomas). 

A  HISTORY  OF   HIS  LIFE.     By 

James  Anthony  Froude. 

1795-1835.     2  vols.     Crown  Svo,  7s. 
1834-18S1.     2  vols.     Crown  Svo,  75. 

MY  RELATIONS  WITH  CAR- 
LYLE. By  James  Anthony  Froude. 
Together  with  a  letter  from  the  late  Sir 
James  Stephen,  Bart.,  K.C.S.I.,  dated 
December  9,  1886.     8vo,  2s.  net. 


COLVILLE— DUCHESS  SARAH: 

being  the  Social  History  of  the  Times  of 
Sarah  Jennings,  Duchess  of  Marlborough. 
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CREIGHTON.  —  LIFE     AND 

LETTERS  OF  .MANDELL  CREIGHTON, 
D.D.  OXON.  AND  CAMB.,  SO.METIME 
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CROZIER.  —  MY    INNER    LIFE: 

being  a  Chapter  in  Personal  Evolution  and 
Autobiography.  By  John  Beattie  Crozier, 
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DANTE.  —THE     LIFE     AND 
WORKS     OF     DANTE     ALLIGHIERI  ; 

being  an  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  the 
'  Divina  Commedia'.  By  the  Rev.  J.  F. 
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DANTON.— LIFE    OF    DANTON, 

By  A.  H.  Beeslv.     With  Portraits.     Crown 
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BO  WEN. —EDWARD    BOWEN  . 

A  ME.MOIR.  By  the  Rev.  the  Hon.  W.  E. 
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DAVENPORT-HILL.—  MEMOIR 

OF  ROSA.MOND  DAVENPORT-HILL. 
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12        LONGMANS   AND    CO.  S   STANDARD    AND   GENERAL    WORKS. 


Biography,   Personal  Memoirs,  etc. — continued. 


De  VERE.— AUI^REV    dk   VERIi: 

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ERASMUS. 
THE  EPISTLES  OF  ERASMUS. 

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each. 

LIFE  AND  LETTERS  OF 
ERASMUS.  By  James  Anthony 
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FARADAY.— FARADAY   AS   A 

DISCOVERER.  By  John  Tyndall.  Crown 

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FOX.— THE  EARLY  HISTORY  OF 
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GREY.  —  MEMOIR      OF     SIR 

GEORGE  GREY,  Bart.,  G.C.B.,  1799-1882. 
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KAMI  LTD  N.— LIFE    OF    SIR 

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HARROW  SCHOOL  REGISTER 

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HAWEIS.-  MY  MUSICAL   LIFE. 

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HIGGINS.— THE  BERNARDS  OF 

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KIELMANSEGGE.  — DIARY    OF 

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MACAU  LAY.— THE    LIFE    AND 

LETTERS  OF  LORD  MACAULAY.      By 
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Library  Edition.     2  vols.     8vo,  36s, 


LONGMANS    AND    CO.  S   STANDARD    AND    GENERAL    WORKS. 


13 


BiojBfraphy,   Personal  Memoirs,  etc. — continued. 


MARBOT.— THE  MEMOIRS  OF 
THE  BARON  DE  .MARBOT.  2  vols.  Cr. 
8vo,  7s. 

MAX  mULLER  (F.). 

THE  LIFE  AND  LETTERS  OF 
THE  RIGHT  HON.  FKIEURICH  MAX 
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MY  AUTOBIOGRAPHY:  a  Frag- 
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AULD 

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MORRIS.  —THE  LIFE  OF 
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ON     THE     BANKS     OF     THE 

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PAGET.— MEMOIRS  AND 
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Ytk^KKRISliNA  :      HIS      LIFE 

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ROCHESTER,      AND     OTHER 

LITERARY  RAKES  OF  THE  COURT 
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ROMANES.  —  THE        LIFE 

AND  LETTERS  OF  GEORGE  JOHN 
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RUSSELL.  —  SWALLOWFIELD 

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TALES   OF   MY   FATHER.-By 

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TALLENTYRE.-THE    WOMEN 

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VERNEY.— MEMOIRS  OF  THE 
VERNEY  FAMILY  DURING  THE 
SEVENTEENTH  CENTURY.  Compiled 
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WILKINS  (\V.  H.). 

A  QUEEN    OF  TEARS:  Caroline 

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and  Princess  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland. 
With  2  Portraits  and  47  other  Illustrations. 
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THE  LOVE  OF  AN  UN- 
CROWNED QUEEN  :  Sophie  Dorothea 
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dence with  Philip  Christopher,  Count 
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CAROLINE  THE  ILLUSTRIOUS, 

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Time.  With  42  Portraits  and  other  Illus- 
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M 


/.OmrJMAiXS    AND    CO.  S    STANDAKP    ANP    GENERAL    WORKS. 


Travel  and  Adventure,  the  Colonies,  etc. 

BRASSEY  (The  Late  Ladyj— coh/. 
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ARNOLD.  -SEAS    AND    LANDS. 

Hy  Sir  KovviN  AuNOi.n.     With  71   Illustra- 
tions.    Crown -Svo,  3s.  6(f. 


BAKER  (Sir  S.  W.). 
EIGHT    YEARS     IN      CEYLON. 

With  6  Illustrations.     Crown  Svo,  3s.  6i/. 

THE  RIFLE  AND  THE  HOUND 

IN  CEYLON.     With  6  Illustrations.     Cr. 
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BALL  (John). 

THE  ALPINE  GUIDE.  Recon- 
structed and  Revised  on  behalf  of  the 
Alpine  Club,  by  W.  A.   B.  Cooudge. 

Vol.     I.,     The     Western     Alps  : 

the  Alpine  Region,  South  of  the  Rhone 
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Vol.  II.,  The  Central  Alps,  North 
OF  THE  Rhone  Valley,  from  the 
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[/;i  preparation. 

HINTS  AND  NOTES,  PRAC- 
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BENT.— THE     RUINED    CITIES 

OF  MASHONALAND:  being  a  Record  of 
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Theodore  Bent.  With  117  Illustrations. 
Crown  8vo,  3s.  6rf. 


BRASSEY  (The  Late  Lady). 

A  VOYAGE  IN  THE  'SUN- 
BEAM '  ;  OUR  HOME  ON  THE 
OCEAN    FOR    ELEVEN    MONTHS. 

Cabinet  Edition.  With  Map  and 
66  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo,  gilt  edges, 
7s.  6</. 

'  Silver  Library  '  Edition.  With  66 
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SUNSHINE 
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IN  THE  TRADES, THE  TROPICS 
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COCKERELL.  TRAVELS  IN 
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VANT, 1810-1817.  By  C.  R.  Cockekell., 
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Pepys  Cockerell.  With  Portrait.  8vo, 
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FOUNTAIN  (Paul). 

THE  GREAT  DESERTS  AND 
FORESTS  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 
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THE  GREAT  NORTH-WEST  AND 
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FROUDE  (James  A.). 

OCEANA  :    or    England    and    her 

Colonies.  With  9  Illustrations.  Crown 
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GROVE.— SEVENTY-ONE  DAYS' 
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HAGGARD.— A  WINTER  PIL- 
GRIMAGE ;  Being  an  Account  of  Travels 
through  Palestine,  Italy  and  the  Island  of 
Cyprus,  undertalien  in  the  year  1900.  By 
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LONGMANS    AND    CO.  S   STANDAKl^    AND   GENERAL    WORKS. 


15 


Travel  and  Adventure,  the  Colonies,  etc. — continued. 


H  A  R  D  W  I  C  K.— A  N      I  \'  O  H  Y 

TNADBK  l.\  N'OUTH  KKNIA:  the  He- 
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HART.— TWO  ARGONAUTS  IN 
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HAVELL.  —  A     HANDBOOK     TO 

AGRA  AND  THE  T.A.I,  SIKANDKA, 
FATKHPUK-SIKRI  AND  THH  NlilGH- 
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cutta; Fellow  of  the  Calcutta  University. 
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HOWITT.— VISITS  TO  REMARK- 

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KNIGHT  (E.  F.). 

THE  CRUISE  OF  THE 
'  FALCON  '.  A  Voyage  to  South  America 
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THE      CRUISE      OF     THE 

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WHERE       THREE       EMPIRES 

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LEES    AND    CLUTTERBUCK. 

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LYNCH.— ARMENIA:  Travels  and 
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NANSEN.— THE  FIRST  CROSS- 
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SMITH. —  CLIMBING  IN  THE 
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STUTFIELD    AND    COLLIE.— 

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NEW    LAND 


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THREE  IN  NORWAY.     By  Two 

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TYNDALL  (John). 


THE  GLACIERS  OF  THE  ALPS. 

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HOURS  OF  EXERCISE  IN  THE 

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l6    LONGMANS   AND    CO.'s   STANDAKD    AND    GENERAL    WORKS. 


Sport  and  Pastime. 

THE   BADMINTON   LIBRARY. 

Kditcd  by  His  Gkace  the  (Eighth)   DUKE  OF  BEAUFORT,  K.G., 
and  A.  E.  T.  WATSON. 


ARCHERY.     By  C.  J.  Longman  and 

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By 


BIG       GAME       SHOOTING. 

Clive  Phili.ipps-Wom.ey. 

Vol.     I.       Africa    and     America. 

With  Contributions  by  Sir  Samuel  W. 
Baker,  W.  C.  Oswell,  F.  C.  Selous,  etc. 
With  20  Plates  and  57  Illustrations  in  the 
Text.  Crown  8vo,  cloth,  6.s.  net  :  half- 
bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

Vol.  II.     Europe,   Asia,   and  the 

ARCTIC  regions.  With  Contributions 
by  Lieut.-Colonel  R.  Heber  Percy,  .Major 
Algernon  C.  Heber  Percy,  etc.  With 
17  Plates  and  56  Illustrations  in  the  Text. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth  6s.  net  ;  half-bound,  with 
gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

BILLIARDS.  By  Major  W.  Broad- 
FOOT,  R.E.  with  Contributions  by  A.  H. 
Boyd,  Sydenham  Dixon,  W.  J.  Ford,  etc. 
With  11  Plates,  19  Illustrations  in  the  Text, 
and  numerous  Diagrams.  Crown  8vo,  cloth, 
6s.  net ;   half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

COURSING  AND  FALCONRY. 
By  Harding  Cox,  Charles  Richardson, 
and  the  Hon.  Gerald  Lascelles.  With 
20  Plates  and  55  Illustrations  in  the  Text. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth  6s.  net  ;  half-bound,  with 
gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

CRICKET.  By  A.  G.  Steel  and  the 
Hon  R.  H.  Lyttelton.  With  Contributions 
by  Andrew  Lang,  W.  G.  Grace,  F.  Gale, 
etc.  With  13  Plates  and  51  Illustrations  in 
the  Text.  Crown  8vo,  cloth,  6s.  net ;  half- 
bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

CYCLING.  By  the  Earl  of  Albe- 
marle and  G.  Lacy  Hillier.  With  19 
Plates  and  44  Illustrations  in  the  Text. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth,  6s.  net ;  half-bound,  with 
gilt  top,  9s.  net, 


DANCING.     By  Mrs.   Lilly  Grove. 

With  Contributions  by  Miss  Middleton. 
The  Hon.  .Mrs.  Ar.mytaoe,  etc.  With 
Musical  Kxamples,  and  38  Full-page  Plates 
and  93  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown 
8vo,  cloth,  6s.  net  ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top, 
9s.  net. 

DRIVING.       By      His     Grace      the 

(Kighth)  Duke  or  Hkaui-ort,  K.G.  With 
Contributions  by  A.  K.  T.  Watson,  the  Earl 
OK  Onslow,  etc.  With  12  Plates  and  54 
Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown  8vo,  cloth, 
6s.  net ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

FENCING,  BOXING,  AND 
wrestling.  By  Walter  H.  Pollock, 
F.  C.  Grove,  C.  Prevost,  E.  B.  Mitchell, 
and  Walter  Armstronc.  With  18  Plates 
and  24  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown  8vo, 
cloth,  6s.  net  ;  half-bound,  with  gill  top,  9s.  net. 

FISHING.     By    H.  Cholmondeley- 

Pennell. 

Vol.  I.    Salmon  and  Trout.    With 

Contributions  by  H.  R.  Francis,  Major 
John  P.  Traherne,  etc.  With  9  Plates 
and  numerous  Illustrations  of  Tackle,  etc. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth,  6s.  net ;  half-bound,  with 
gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

Vol.  II.     Pike  and  other  Coarse 

Fish.  With  Contributions  by  the  Mar- 
quis of  Exkter,  William  Senior,  G. 
Christopher  Davis,  etc.  With  7  Plates 
and  numerous  Illustrations  of  Tackle,  etc. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth,  6s.  net ;  half-bound,  with 
gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

FOOTBALL.  History,  by  Mon- 
tague Shearman  ;  The  Association  Game, 
by  W.  J.  Oakley  and  G.  O.  Smith  ;  The 
Rugby  Union  Game,  by  Frank  Mitchell. 
With  other  Contributions  by  R.  E.  Mac- 
naghten,  M.  C.  Ke.mp,  J.  E.  Vincent, 
Walter  Camp  and  A.  Sutherland.  With 
19  Plates  and  35  Illustrations  in  the  Text. 
Crown  8vo,  cloth,  6s.  net  ;  half-bound,  with 
gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

GOLF.    By  Horace  G.  Hutchinson. 

W'ith  Contributions  by  the  Rt.  Hon.  A.  J. 
Balfour,  M.P.,  Sir  Walter  Simpson, 
Bart.,  Andrew  Lang,  etc.  With  34  Plates 
and  56  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown 
8vo,  cloth,  6s.  net ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top, 
9s.  net. 

HUNTING.         By    His    Grace    the 

(Eighth)  Duke  of  Beaufort,  K.G.,  and 
Mowbray  Morris.  With  Contributions  by 
the  Earl  of  Suffolk  and  Berkshire, 
Rev.  E.  W.  L.  Davies,  G.  H.  Longman, 
etc.  With  5  Plates  and  54  Illustrations  in 
the  Text.  Crown  8vo,  cloth,  6s.  net  ;  half- 
bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 


LONGMANS   AND    CO.'s   STANDARD   AND   GENERAL    IVORKS.        1 7 


Sport  and  Pastime — continued. 

THE    BADMINTON   LIBRARY— cant iirued. 

EditeJ  by  His  Grace  thk  (Eighth)  DUKE  OF  BEAUFORT,  K.G., 

and  A.  E.  T.  WATSON. 


MOTORS  AND  MOTOR-DRIVING.    SHOOTING. 

By  Sir  Ai.i'UKi)  C.  Hakmsvvorth,  Bart.,  the 
AlARsjuis  UK  Chasselolp  -  Lauhat,  the 
Hon.  John  Scott-Moni aou,  R.  J.  Me- 
ci;edy,  the  Hon.  C.  S.  K01.1.S,  Sir  David 
Salomons.  E^art.,  etc.  With  M  Plates  and 
160  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown  Svo, 
cloth,  9s.  net  ;  half-bound,  12s.  net. 

A  Cloth   Bo.x  lor  use  when  Motor- 
ing, 2s.  net. 


MOUNTAINEERING.       By    C.    T. 

Dent.  With  Contributions  by  the  Right 
Hon.  J.  Bhvce,  .M.P.,  Sir  Martin  Conway, 
D.  W.  Freshfieli),  C.  E.  Matthews,  etc. 
With  13  Plates  and  91  Illustrations  in  the 
Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6s.  net  ;  half-bound, 
with  gilt  top.  9.S.  net. 

POETRY  OF  SPORT  (THE).— 
Selected  by  Hedley  Peek.  With  a  Chapter 
on  Classical  Allusions  to  Sport  by  Andrew 
Lang,  and  a  Special  Preface  to  the  BAD- 
MINTON LIBRARY  by  A.  E.  T.  Watson. 
With  32  Plates  and  74  Illustrations  in  the 
Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6s.  net ;  half-bound, 
with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

R.ACING  AND  STEEPLE-CHAS- 
ING. By  the  Earl  of  Suffolk  and 
Berkshire,  W.  G.  Craven,  the  Hon.  F. 
Lawlev,  Arthur  Coventry,  and  A.  E.  T. 
Watson.  With  Frontispiece  and  56  Illus- 
trations in  the  Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6s. 
net  :  half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

RIDING  AND  POLO.  By  Captain 
Robert  Weir,  J.  Moray  Brown,  T.  F. 
Dale,  The  Late  Duke  of  Beaufort, 
The  Earl  of  Suffolk  and  Berkshire, 
etc.  With  IS  Plates  and  41  Illustrations  in 
the  Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6s.  net ;  half- 
bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

ROWING.  By  R.  P.  P.  Rowe  and 
C.  M.  Pitman.  With  Chapters  on  Steering 
by  C.  P.  Serocold  and  F.  C.  Begg  ;  Metro-  j 
politan  Rowing  by  S.  Le  Blanc  Smith  ;  and 
on  PUNTING  by  P.  W.  Squire.  With 
75  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6s.  net  ; 
half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

SEA  FISHING.  By  John  Bicker- 
dyke,  Sir  H.  W.  Gore-Booth,  Sir  Alfred 
C.  Harmsworth,  Bart.,  and  W.  Senior. 
With  22  Full-page  Plates  and  175  Illustra- 
tions in  the  Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6s.  net  : 
half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 


Vol.  I.  Field  and  Covert.  By 
Lord  Walsingham  and  Sir  Ralph 
Payne-Gali.wev,  Bart.  With  Contribu- 
tions by  the  Hon  Gerald  Lascelles  and 
A.  J.  Stuart-Wortley.  With  11  Plates 
and  95  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown 
Svo,  cloth,  6s.  net  ;  half-bound,  with  gilt 
top,  9s.  net. 

Vol.  II.  Moor  and  Marsh.  By 
Lord  Walsingham  and  Sir  Ralph 
Payne-Gallwey,  Bart.  With  Contribu- 
tions by  Lord  Lovat  and  Lord  Charles 
Lennox  Kerr.  With  S  Plates  and  57 
Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown  Svo, 
cloth,  65.  net  ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top, 
9s.  net. 

SKATING,  CURLING,  TOBOG- 
GANING. By  J.  M.  Heathcote,  C.  G. 
Tebbutt,  T.  Ma.xwell  With  am.  Rev. 
John  Kerr,  Ormond  Hake,  Henry  A. 
Buck,  etc.  With  12  Plates  and  272  Illustra- 
tions in  the  Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  65.  net ; 
half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

SWIMMING.  By  Archibald  Sin- 
clair and  William  Henry,  Hon.  Sees,  of 
the  Life-Saving  Society.  With  13  Plates  and 
112  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Cr.  Svo,  cloth, 
6s.  net ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

TENNIS,      LAWN     TENNIS, 

RACKETS  AND  FIVES.  By  J.  M.  and  C. 
G.  Heathcote,  E.  O.  Pleydell-Bouverie, 
and  A.  C.  Ainger.  With  Contributions  by 
the  Hon.  A.  Lyttelton,  W.  C.  Marshall, 
.Miss  L.  DoD,  etc.  With  14  Plates  and  65 
Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth, 
65.  net ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

YACHTING. 

Vol.  I.    Cruising,  Construction  of 

yachts,  yacht  racing  rules,  pitting-out, 
etc.  By  Sir  Edward  Sullivan,  Bart., 
The  Earl  of  Pembroke,  Lord  Brassey, 
K.C.B.,  C.  E.  Seth-Smith,  C.B.,  G.  L. 
Watson,  R.  T.  Pritchett,  E.  F.  Knight, 
etc.  With  21  Plates  and  93  Illustrations 
in  the  Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  t!s.  net; 
half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 

Vol.  II.     Yacht  Clubs,  Yachting 

IN     AMERICA     AND     THE    COLONIES,    YACHT 

RACING,  etc.  By  R.  T.  Pritchett,  The 
Marquis  of  Dufferin  and  Ava,  K.P., 
The  Earl  of  Onslow,  James  .McFerran, 
etc.  With  35  Plates  and  160  Illustrations 
in  the  Text.  Crown  Svo,  cloth,  6s.  net ; 
half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  9s.  net. 


LONGMANS   AND    CO.  S   STANDARD    AND    GENERAL    WORKS. 

Sport  and  Pastime — continued. 
FUR,  FEATHER,  AND  FIN  SERIES. 

Edited  by  A.  E.  T.  Watson. 
Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  price  5s.  each  Volume. 

*^*  T]ic  Volumes  arc  also  issued  lialf-boiind  in  Leather,  with  f(ilt  top. 
Price  Is.  t)(/.  )iet  each. 


THE  PARTRIDGE.  Natural  His- 
tory, by  the  Rev.  H.  A.  IMacphekson  ; 
Shooting,  by  A.  J.  Stuae<t  -  \\'oi«tley  ; 
Cookery,  by  Geokge  Saintshurv.  With 
11  Illustrations  and  various  Diagrams. 
Crown  8vo,  5.s. 


THE  SALMON.     By  the  Hon.  A.  E. 

Gathokne-Hakdv.  With  Chapters  on  the 
Law  of  Sahnon  Fishing  by  Cl-Aii)  DofOl.AS 
Pennant;  Cookery,  by  Alexander  Innes 
Shani).   With  8  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  5s. 


THE  GROUSE.  Natural  History, 
by  the  Rev.  H.  A.  Macpherson;  Shooting, 
by  A.  J.  Stuart-Wortlev:  Cookery,  by 
Georoe  Saintsburv.  With  13  Illustrations 
and  various  Diagrams.     Crown  8vo,  5.s. 


THE    TROUT.     By   the    Marquess 

OF  Oranhv.  With  Chapters  on  the  Breed- 
ing of  Trout  by  Col.  H.  Custance  ;  and 
Cookery,  by  Alexander  Innes  Shand. 
With  12  Illustrations.     Crown  8vo,  5s. 


THE  PHEASANT.  Natural  History, 

by  the  Rev.  H.  A.  Macpherson  ;    Shooting,  I  _,  ,_,    ,-^  »  r-.  n  . rr.       r-.       t  t-. 

by  A.  J.  Stuaki-Wortlev  ;  Cookery,  by  i  THE  RABBIT.  By  JaMES  EdmUND 
Alexander  Innes  Shand.  With  10  Illus-  Harting.  Cookery,  by  Alexander  Innes 
trations  and  various  Diagrams.     Cr.  8vo,  5s.  Shand.  With  10  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo,  5s. 


THE  HARE.  Natural  History,  by 
the  Rev.  H.  A.  Macpherson  ;  Shooting,  by 
the  Hon.  Gerald  Lascelles  ;  Coursing,  by 
Charles  Richardson  ;  Hunting,  by  J.  S. 
GiUBONS  and  G.  H.  Longman  ;  Cookery,  by 
Col.  Kennev  Herbert.  With  9  Illustra- 
tions.    Crown  8vo,  5s. 


PIKE  AND  PERCH.      By  William 

Senior  (' Redspinner,'  Editor  of  the  'Field'). 
With  Chapters  by  John  Bickerdyke  and  W. 
H.  Pope  ;  Cookery,  by  Alexander  Innes 
Shand.     With  12  Illustrations.     Cr.  8vo,  5s. 


RED  DEER.  Natural  History,  by 
the  Rev.  H.  A.  Macpherson  ;  Deer  Stalk-  |  SNIPE 
ing,  by  Cameron  of  Lochiel  ;  Stag  Hunt- 
ing, by  Viscount  Ebrington  ;  Cookery  by 
Alexander  Innes  Shand.  With  10  Illus- 
trations.    Crown  8vo,  5s. 


AND     WOODCOCK.       By 

L.  H.  De  Visme  Shaw.  With  Chapters  on 
Snipe  and  Woodcock  in  Ireland  by  Richard 
J.  Ussher.  Cookery,  by  Alexander  Innes 
Shand.   With  8  Illustrations.    Crown  8vo,  5s. 


ANSTRUTHER     THOMSON.— 

EIGHTY  YEARS'  REMINISCENCES. 
By  Colonel  J.  Anstruther  Thomson.  With 
29  Portraits  and  other  Illustrations.  2  vols. 
8vo,  21s.  net. 


BICKERDYKE.— DAYS  OF  MY 
LIFE  ON  WATER,  FRESH  AND  SALT; 
and  other  Papers.  By  John  Bickerdyke. 
With  Photo-etching  Frontispiece  and  8  Full- 
page  Illustrations.     Crown  8vo,  3s.  6i/. 


BLACKBURNE.  —  MR.    BLACK- 

BURNE'S  GAMES  AT  CHESS.  Selected, 
Annotated  and  Arranged  by  Himself.  Edited, 
with  a  Biographical  Sketch  and  a  brief  His- 
tory of  Blindfold  Chess,  by  P.  Anderson 
Graham.  With  Portrait  of  Mr.  Blackburne. 
8vo,  7s.  6if.  net. 


ELLIS.— CHESS      SPARKS  ;     or, 

Short  and  Bright  Games  of  Chess.  Collected 
and  Arranged  by  J.  H.  Ellis,  M.A.  8vo, 
4s.  M. 


LONGMANS   AND    CO.  S   STANDARD   AND   GENERAL    IVORKS. 


19 


Sport  and  Pastime — coiii'mned. 


FORD.— THE  THEORY  AND 
PRACTICE  OF  ARCHERY.  By  Horace 
Ford.  New  Edition,  thoroughly  Revised 
and  Re-written  by  \V.  Butt,  M.A.  With 
a  Preface  by  C.  J.  Long.man,  .M.A.     8vo,  14s. 


FREMANTLE.— THE    BOOK  OF 

THE  RIFLE.  By  the  Hon. T.F.  FREMANTLE. 
V.D.,Major,lst  Bucks  V.R.C.  With 54  Plates 
and  107  Diagrams  in  the  Text.  8vo,  12s.  6('. 
net. 

GATHORNE-HARD  Y.— 

AUTU.MNS  IN  ARGYLESHIRE  WITH 
ROD  AND  GUN.  By  the  Hon.  A.  E. 
Gathorne-Hardy.  With  8  Illustrations  by 
Archibald  Thoruurn.    8vo,  Gs.  net. 

G  R  A  H  A  M.— COUNTRY  PAS- 
TIMES FOR  BOYS.  By  P.  A.vdhrson 
Graham.  With  252  Illustrations  from  Draw- 
ings and  Photographs.  Crown  8vo,  gilt 
edges,  3s.  net. 

HUTCHINSON.— THE  BOOK  OF  ; 
GOLF  AND  GOLFERS.     By  Horace  G. 
Hutchinso.n.   With  71  Portraits  from  Photo- 
graphs.   Large  crown  8vo,  gilt  top,  7s.  M.  net. 


MASKELYNE.  — SHARPS     AND 

FLATS  :  a  Complete  Revelation  of  the 
Secrets  of  Cheating  at  Games  of  Chance 
and  Skill.  By  John  Nevil  Maskelyne, 
of  the  Egyptian  Hall.  With  62  Illustrations. 
Crown  8vo,  6s. 

MILLAIS.— THE  WILD-FOWLER 

IN  SCOTLAND.  By  J.  G.  MrLLAis.  F.Z.S. 
W'ith  a  Frontispiece  in  Photogravure  by 
Sir  J.  E.  MiLLAis,  Bart.,  P.R.A.  8  Photo- 
gravure Plates,  2  Coloured  Plates,  and  50 
Illustrations  from  the  Author's  Drawings 
and  from  Photographs.  Royal  4to,  gilt  top, 
3()s.  net. 

MODERN  BRIDGE.     By  '  Slam  '. 

With  a  Reprint  of  the  Laws  of  Bridge,  as 
adopted  by  the  Portland  and  Turf  Clubs. 
18mo,  gilt  edges,  3s.  %d.  net. 

OATES.  —  WILD    DUCKS;    HOW 

TO  REAR  AND  SHOOT  THE.M.  By 
Captain  W.  CoAPE  Oates.  With  4  Photo- 
gravures after  Drawings  by  G.  E.  Lodge, 
and  12  Photographs.     Crown  8vo,  4s.  6(f.  net. 

PARK.— THE    GAME    OF    GOLF. 

By  WiLLiA.M  Park,  Jun.,  Champion  Golfer, 
1887-89.  With  17  Plates  and  26  Illustrations 
in  the  Text.     Crown  8vo,  7s.  6!/. 


JESSEL.— A  BIBLIOGRAPHY  OF 

WORKS  IN  ENGLISH  ON  PL.A.YING 
CARDS  AND  GAMI.NG.  Compiled  by 
Frederic  Jessel.    8vo,  12s.  6(/.  net. 

LANG.— ANGLING  SKETCHES.— 
By  Andrew  Lang.  With  20  Illustrations. 
Crown  8vo,  3s.  61/. 

L  I  L  L  I  E.— CROQUET     UP     TO 

DATE.  Containing  the  Ideas  and  Teachings 
of  the  Leading  Players  and  Champions.  By 
Arthur  Lillie.  With  19  Illustrations  (15 
Portraits),  and  numerous  Diagrams.  Svo, 
10s.  6i/.  net. 

LONGMAN.— CHESS  OPEN- 
INGS. By  Frederick  W.  Longman.  Fcp. 
Svo,  2s.  6i(. 

MACKENZIE.— NOTES    FOR 

HUNTING  MEN.  By  Captain  Cortlandt 
Gordon  Mackenzie.  Crown  8vo,  2s.  61/. 
net. 

MADDEN.— THE  DIARY  OF 
MASTER  WILLIAM  SILENCE  :  a  Study 
of  Shakespeare  and  of  Elizabethan  Sport.  By 
the  Right  Hon.  D.  H.  Madden,  Vice- 
Chancellor  of  the  University  of  Dublin.  8vo, 
gilt  top,  16s. 


PAYNE-GALLWEY    (Sir   Ralph, 

Bart.). 

LETTERS       TO       YOUNG 

SHOOTERS  (First  Series).  On  the  Choice 
and  use  of  a  Gun.  With  41  Illustrations. 
Crown  8vo,  7s.  61/. 

LETTERS  TO  YOUNG 
SHOOTERS  (Second  Series).  On  the 
Production,  Preservation  and  Killing  of 
Game.  With  Directions  in  Shooting 
Wood-Pigeons  and  Breaking-in  Retrievers. 
With  Portrait  and  103  Illustrations.  Crown 
8vo,  12s.  6(/. 

LETTERS      TO       YOUNG 

SHOOTERS  (Third  Series).  Compris- 
ing a  Short  Natural  History  of  the  Wild- 
fowl that  are  Rare  or  Common  to  the 
British  Islands,  with  complete  directions 
in  Shooting  Wildfowl  on  the  Coast  and 
Inland.  With  200  Illustrations.  Crown 
Svo,  18s. 

THE  CROSSBOW:  Mediaeval  and 

.Modern;  Military  and  Sporting;  its  Con- 
struction, History  and  .\lanagement,  with 
a  Treatise  on  the  Balista  and  Catapult  of 
the  Ancients.  With  220  Illustrations. 
Royal  4to,  £3  3s.  net. 

PROCTOR.— HOW      TO       PLAY 

WHIST:  WITH  THE  LAWS  AND 
ETIQUETTE  OF  WHIST.  By  Richard 
A.  Proctor.     Crown  Svo,  gilt  edges,  3s.  net. 


20        LONGMANS   AND   CO.  S   STANDARD   AND   GENERAL    WORKS. 


Sport  and   Pastime — ioiitiniu'd. 


R  O  N  A  L  D  S.  -  T  H  12        F  L  Y- 

1-1SH1:K  S  i;.\'R).\K)LOGY.  By  Am  ni:i) 
KoNAl.iJS.  With  20  coloured  Plates.  8vo. 
l-ls. 


THOMAS-STANFOR  D.— A 

WI\I:K  OI-  NORWAY;  hcmu  the  Notes 
and  UeHections  of  an  Angler.  Hy  Chaki.ES 
Thomas-Si ANFOHU.  With  10  Photogravure 
I>lates,  1  Map  and  1  l»lan.     8vo,  9s.  net. 


SOMERVILLE.— SLIPPER'S    THOMPSON,     CANNAN     AND 


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Essay   on   the    Short    Story,    by    Charles,       MY    LADY    OF    ORANGE:     a     Ro- 
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fessor  in  Yale  University, 
net. 


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a.  I, 


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Vivian  Grey. 

The  Young  Duke ; 
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Tragedy. 

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Heaven  ;  The  In- 
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Popanilla. 

Tancred. 


Contarini        Fleming  ; 

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der. 
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31 


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.M.A.C.  AN"  TALES  OF  OTHER  MEN'S 
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32 


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Zl 


Fiction,   Humour,  etc. — continued. 


MARCHMONT.— IN  THE   NAME    MORRIS  ^Mw.'lxk^x)— continued. 
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MASON  AND    LANG.— PARSON 

KELLY.     By  .4.  E.  W.  .Mason  and  Anduevv 
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MELVILLE  (G.  J.  Whyte). 


The  Gladiators. 
The  Interpreter. 
Good  for  Nothing. 
The  Queen's  .Maries. 


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Kate  Coventry. 
Digby  Grand. 
General  Bounce. 


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POLLOCK. —HAY    FEVER.       By 

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34        LONGMANS   AND   CO.  S   STANDARD   AND   GENERAL    li^'ORKS. 


Fiction,  Humour,  etc. — contiiunuL 


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iMarnaret  Percivai.  Gertrude. 

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36 


r.ONCMANS    A!VD    CO.  S   STANDARD    AND    GENERAL    WORKS. 


Popular  Science  (Natural   History,  etc.) — continued. 


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Contents.— Vol.  I.  The  Relation  of  Natural 
Science  to  Science  in  General  —  Goethe's 
ScientiKc  Researches  --  The  Physiolo^jical 
Causes  of  Harmony  in  Music — Ice  and  Glaciers 
—The  Interaction  of  the  Natural  Forces-The 
Recent  MroKress  of  the  Theory  of  Vision— The 
Conservation  of  Force — The  Aim  and  Proj>ress 
of  Physical  Science. 

Contents.— Vol.  II.  Gustav  Magnus.  In 
Memoriam — The  Origin  and  Significance  of 
Geometrical  Axioms— The  Relation  of  Optics 
to  Painting — The  Origin  of  the  Planetary 
System  —  Thought  in  Medicine  —  Academic 
Freedom  in  German  Universities — Hermann 
von  Helmholtz  :  An  Autobiographical  Sketch. 


HOFFMANN.— ALPINE  FLORA: 

For  Tourists  and  Amateur  Botanists.  With 
Text  descriptive  of  the  most  widely  dis- 
tributed and  attractive  Alpine  Plants.  By 
Julius  Hoffmann.  Translated  by  E.  S. 
Barton  (Mrs.  A.  Gepp).  With  40  Plates 
containing  250  Coloured  Figures  from 
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HUDSON  (W.  H.). 

HAMPSHIRE     DAYS.      With     11 

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NATURE  IN  DOWN  LAND.  With 
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BRITISH  BIRDS.      With  a  Chap- 

ter  on  Structure  and  Classification  by 
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BIRDS  AND  MAN. 

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MILLAIS  (John  Guille). 
THE   WILDFOWLER   IN  SCOT- 

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THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF 
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DUCKS.  With  6  Photogravures  and  66 
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PROCTOR  (Richard  A.). 
LIGHT  SCIENCE  FOR  LEISURE 

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ROUGH  WAYS  MADE  SMOOTH. 

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LEISURE  READINGS.  By  R.  A. 
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STANLEY.— A  FAMILIAR  HIS- 
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LONGMANS   AND    CO.  S   STANDARD    AND   GENERAL    WORKS. 


37 


Popular  Science  (Natural   History,  etc.) — continued. 
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HOMES    WITHOUT    HANDS: a 

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INSECTS  AT  HOME:    a   Popular 

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PETLAND  REVISITED.    With  33 

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CHISHOLM.— HANDBOOK   OF 

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TREASURY  OF  KNOWLEDGE 
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38        LOmMANS   AND   CO.' S  srANDARD   AND   GENERAL    UOKKS. 

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DENT.— IN  SEARCH  OF  HOME: 

a  Story  of  East-End  Waifs  and  Strays.  By 
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THE     BLUE     POETRY     BOOK. 

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LONGMANS   AND   CO.'s   STANDARD   AND   GENERAL    tVORJCS.        39 


Children's  Books — coiifiintcd. 


LYALL.  —  THE       BURGES 

LETTKWS  ;  a  Record  of  Child  Life  in  the 
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tions by  Wai.tkr  S.  Stackv.  Crown  8vo, 
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ROBERTS.— THE  ADVENTURES 

()FC.\1»TAIX  JOHN  SMITH;  Captain  of 
Two  Hundred  and  Fifty  Horse,  and  some- 
time President  of  Virginia.  By  E.  P. 
RonHRTS.  With  3  Maps  and  17  Illustrations. 
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MACDONALD.  ^BABIES' 

CLASSICS.  Chosen  by  LiLiA  Scott 
MacDonai.i).  With  67  Illustrations  and  37 
Initial  Letters  by  Akthur  Hughes.  Larije 
Crown  4to,  4s.  Hit.  net. 

*»*  This  book  is  a  collection  0/ poems  that  may  . 
fairly  be  called  '  Children's  Classics'.     They  are 
selected  from   William  lilakc,  Jane  and  Anne 
Taylor,    Mary  Hotcitt,   Isaac    Watts,   Charles 
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MEADE  (L.  T.). 

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PACKARD.     THE    YOUNG     ICE 

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THROP  Packard.  With  16  Illustrations. 
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PENROSE.— CHUBBY  .  A  Nuis- 
ance. By  .Mrs.  Penrose.  With  8  Illus- 
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PRAEGER  (Rosamond). 

THE  ADVENTURES  OF  THE 
THREE  BOLD  BABES:  HECTOR, 
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ROBBINS.  —  DUTCH       DOLL 

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STEVENSON.— A  CHILD'S 
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VAUGHAN.  —  OLD    HENDRIKS 

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*t*  This  is  a  volume  of  animal  stories  collected 
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40 


LONGMANS   AND    CO.' S   STANDARD    AND    GENERAL    WORKS. 


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Contents.— The  Character  of  Sir  Hohert 
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Sir  George  Cornewall  Lewis— Adam  Smith  as 
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—Oxford— Bishop  Butler— The  Ignorance  of 
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44 


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LONGMANS    AND    CO.'S  STANDARD   AND    GENERAL    WORKS.        45 


The  Fine  Arts  and  Music — continued. 


MORRIS  (William) — continued. 

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