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NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION
arn o
DIVISION OF REVIEW
EVIDENCE STUDY
NO. 8
OF
THE COTTON GARMENT INDUSTRY
Prepared by
J. W. HATHCOCK
AUGUST, 1935
PRELIMINARY DRAFT
(NOT FOR RELEASE: FOR USE IN DIVISION ONLY)
THE EVIDENCE STUDY SERIES
The EVIDENCE STUDIES were originally planned as a means of gathering-
evidence "bearing upon various legal issues which arose wider the National
Industrial Recovery Act.
These studies have value quite, aside from the use for which they were
originally intended. Accordingly, they are now made available for confidential
use within the Division of Review, and for inclusion in Code Histories.
The full list of the Evidence Studies is as follows:
1. Automobile Manufacturing Ind,
2. Boot and Shoe Mfg. Ind.
3. Bottled Soft Drink Ind.
4. Builders' Supplies Ind.
5. Chemical Mfg. Ind.
6. Cigar Mfg. Industry
7. Construction Industry
8. Cotton Garment Industry
9. Dress Mfg. Ind.
10. Electrical Contracting Ind,
11. Electrical Mfg. Ind,
12. Fab. Metal prod. Mfg., etc.
13. Fisher;/ Industry
14. Furniture Mfg. Ind.
15. General. Contractors Ind.
16. Graphic Arts Ind.
17. Gray Iron Foundry Ind.
18. Hosiery Ind,
19. Infant's & Children's Wear Ind.
20. Iron and Steel Ind,
21. Leather
22. Lumber & Timber Prod. Ind.
23.
24.
25.
25.
27.
28.
29,
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
37.
33.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
Mason Contractors Industry
Men's Clothing Industry
Motion Picture Industry
Motor Bus Mfg. Industry (Dropped)
Needlework Ind. of Puerto Rico
Painting & paperhanging & Decorating
photo Engraving Ind\istry
Plumbing Contracting Industry
Retail Food (See No. 42)
Retail Lumber Industry
Retail Solid Fuel (Dropped)
Retail Trade Industry
Rubber Mfg. Ind.
Rubber Tire Mfg. Ind.
Silk Textile Ind.
Structural Clay Products Ind.
Throwing Industry
Trucking Industry
Waste Materials Ind.
Wholesale & Retail Food Ind. (See No,
Wholesale Fresh Fruit & Veg, 31 )
In addition to the studies brought to completion, certain materials have
been assembled for other industries. These MATERIALS are included in the series
and are also made available for confidential use within the Division of Review
and for inclusion in Code Histories, as follows;
44. Wool Textile Industry 49.
45. Automotive parts & Equip. Ind, 50.
46. Baking Industry 51.
47. Canning Industry 52.
48. Coat and Suit Ind. 53.
Household Goods & Storage, etc. (Drop-'
Motor Vehicle Retailing Trade Ind, ped)
Retail Tire & Battery Trade Ind.
Ship & Boat BIdg. & Repairing Ind,
Wholesaling or Distributing Trad'
L. C. Marshall-
Director , Division of Review
0\b *\
i Ait
CONTENTS
Page
Foreword 1
CHAPTER I - DESCRIPTION AMD SCOPE 3
Code Definition 3
Historical Background 3
Significant Recent Developments 4
General Operation of the Industry 4
Number and Location of Establishments 4
Capital Investment °
Number of Failures and Turnover Among Pirms ?
Present Financial Condition of the Industry 7
Value of Products and Volume of Production ?
Basis on which Volume and Value were
Determined ?
Competing Industries and Products 8
CHAPTER II - LABOR STATISTICS 11
Number of Employees H
Wages Paid by the Industry 13
Average Hourly Wage Rates and Average Hours
Worked per Week 14
Number of Employees Under 16 Years of Age 15
Cost of Labor Relative to Value of Product 13
CHAPTER III - MATERIALS: RAW AND SEMI-PROCESSED 19
Principal Materials Used by Cotton Garment
Industry 19
Source of Production of Materials Used by
the Industry 19
Amount Spent for Machinery and Equipment 19
Cost of Materials Relative to Value of
Products 21
CHAPTER IV - PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION 22
Volume and Value of Products by States 22
Value and Volume of Products Shipped 22
Value and Volume of Products Exported from
the United States ". 24
Nature of Advertising 24
Shift of Centers of Production 25
Productive Capactiy 26
8312
-i-
CONTENTS (Cont'd)
Page
CHAPTER V - TRADE PRACTICES 27
Unfair Trade Practices Prevalent Before
Code 27
Unfair Return of Merchandise 27
Secret Rebates 27
Freight Allowances 27
Excessive Terras 27
Consignment Selling 27
Advertising Allowances 27
Inaccurate Advertising 27
Improper Cancellations and Exchanges 28
Wilfully Destructive Price Cutting 23
Lack of Standards and Arbitration
Facilities 28
Unfair Competition of Prison Made Goods 28
Spread of Unfair Trade Practices 29
Effect of Individual Members on Price
Structure of Industry 29
CHAPTER VI - GEKSRAL IHFORMATIOH 30
Trade Organizations 30
Labor Organizations 31
Relationship between Labor and Management 51
In the Work-Clothes Industry 31
In the Shirt and Men's Pajama
Industries 32
In the House-Dress Industry 32
Employee Representation Plans 32
Effect of the Code on the Industry 32
Average Hours 32
Hourly Rates of Pay 32
Employment 32
Weekly Wages 33
Summary 33
Per Cent of the Products of the Industry
which are Trade Marked 33
Foreign Competition 34
List of Experts 35
APPE3SDIX 37
o 0 o -
3312
-li-
TABLES
Page
TABLE I - MEMBERS OF THE INDUSTRY CLASSIFIED
ACCORDING TO NUMBER OF ESTAB-
LISHMENTS; 1934 5
TABLE II - NUMBER OF ESTABLISHMENTS, BY
STATES 6
TABLE III - VALUE AND VOLUME OF PRODUCTION, BY
PRINCIPAL PRODUCTS 9
TABLE IV - AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE EARNERS, BY
STATES, 1929, 1931, 1933, AND
1934, AND AVERAGE HOURS PER WEEK,
1934 12
TABLE V - SEASONALITY OF EMPLOYMENT, 1934 13
TABLE VI - TOTAL ANNUAL WAGES, BY STATES 14
TABLE VII - EMPLOYMENT, PAYROLLS, HOURS AND
WAGES, 1933-1934 16
TABLE VIII - VALUE OF PRODUCT, LABOR COST, AND
COST OF MATERIALS 18
TABLE IX - VALUE OF PRINCIPAL MATERIALS USED
BY THE INDUSTRY, BY KIND AND
PRODUCTION AREA: 1929 20
TABLE X - VALUE OF SEWING MACHINES AND AT-
TACHMENTS PRODUCED, BY STATES,
1929 21
TABLE XI - VALUE OF PRODUCTS BY STATES, 1929,
1931, 1933, AND VOLUME OF PRO-
DUCTION, 1934 23
TABLE XII - EXPORTS BY VALUE AND VOLUME 24
TABLE XIII - CHANGE IN EMPLOYMENT BETWEEN 1929
AND 1933, BY PRINCIPAL STATES 25
TABLE XIV - PRODUCTIVE CAPACITY AND PER CENT
UTILIZED: 1934 26
- o 0 o -
8312 -ili-
-1-
THE COTTON GARMENT INDUSTRY
Fo record
Msot of the statistical material presented in this report for the
years 1929, 1931, and 1933 has "been compiled from the Census of Manufactures.
It must he pointed out, however, that these figures are not comprehensive
enough to cover the Industry as defined hy the Code, hut apply only to the
work clothing and shirt tranches of the Industry. Figures covering all '..-
"branches of the Industry are, in general, available only for the year 1934,
and such material is available only from the Cotton Garment Code Authority.
This has therefore been used to supplement the Census data. Information
on exports has been compiled from reports of the Bureau of Foreign and Do-
mestic Commerce. A special tabulation showing employment, earnings, and
hours of labor in 1S33 and 1934, which is comparable with the Code classifi-
cation, is presented in Table VII. This information was obtained through a
joint effort of the Bureau of Labor Statistics and the Division of Research
and. Planning, NBA.
For various of the topics upon which information is called for ~bj the
outline, material is available only from the Cotton Garment Code Authority.
It has in fact, prepared considerable material which has been incorporated
in part in this report. Chapters I, II, III, and I? were largely written by
Br. Alfred Cahen, Statistician for the Code Authority. Chapters V and VI,
which are presented substantially as supplied by the Code Authority, were
preuared as follows:
Chapter V:
Mr. W. C. Morgan, General Manager of the Cotton Garment Code
Authority
Mr. Mas J. Liebowitz, Divisional Director, Shirt, Pajama and
Collar Divisional Code Authority
Mr. William Oseasohn, Divisional Director, purses' , Service and
Undergarment Divisional Code Authority
Mr. Joseph H. Goliger, Divisional Director, Heavy Outerwear
Divisional Code Authority
Mr. Charles Daughters, Divisional Director, Work Clothes
Divisional Code Authority
Mr. Peter J. Troy, Divisional Director, House Dress
■ Divisional Code Authority
Mr. Harry Rogen, Prison Labor Secretary
Chapter VI:
Mr. W. C. Morgan
Dr. Alfred Cahen
8312
-2-
Dr. Gladys Dickason, Secretary, La"bor Compliance Committee,
Cotton G-arment Code Authority
Mr. A. F. Allison, Secretary, International Association of
Garment Manufacturers
The Appendix was supplied "by the Code Authority and is submitted in the
form prepared by it.
8312
-3-
Chapter I
DESCRIPTION AED SCOPE
Code Definition
The term "Cotton Garment Industry,11 as used in the Code
"means and includes the production by any of the following
processes: (a) cutting, (b) creasing, (c) sewing (all or part
of the garment), (d) trimming, (e) pressing, (f) finishing,
(g) examining and inspecting, (h) boxing, or all of them, of
any article or garment known as (l) work clothing, work
garments, work pants and children's play suits; (2) men's
shirts, including knitted outer shirts and polo shirts;
(3) boys' shirts and blouses; (4) boys' wash suits; (5) work
shirts of any material, including flannel shirts; (6) pa-
jamas and nightshirts; (?) men's collars; (8) cotton wash
dresses; (9) oiled cotton garments; (10) men's and boys'
pants in chief content of cotton; (11) sheep lined arid
leather garments; (12) nurses and maids aprons and uni-
forms; (13) washable service apparel; (14) men's cotton
wash suits."
Historical Background
A hundred years ago in the United States, the few cotton garments
produced out side the home were manufactured in small plants and were sold
principally within neighboring towns and adjacent counties. Household
sewing for family consumption was at th-'.vt time predominant. The only cotton-
garment firms more than one hundred years old are those which began by
manufacturing oiled cotton garments in Massachusetts. There are some large
work-clothing firms, however, which ante-date the Civil War. The industry
now manufactures a wide variety of products as suggested in the Code defi-
nition cited above.
Pour principal factors caused the growth of large plants with distrib-
uting agencies all over the United States in place of the small neighborhood
garment factory, and of household sewing.
First, improvement in machinery gave to the operator with large capital
resources definite production advantages over the neighborhood manufacturer
and even rivaled the housewife in lowness of sewing costs.
Second, style trends became prominent in cotton shirts, dresses, and
pajamas, whereas at one time these garments had been entirely utility items.
Thus in the matter of color and design, the advance of chemical developments
in dye stuffs gave to large operators with adequate funds for research dis-
tinct advantages over the small local factory.
In more recent years the development of trade marks end national adver-
tising, along with government progress on standards and specifications, has
benefitted the large producer whose sales are nation-wide, and consequent^
reduced the proportionate importance of snail local factories.
8312
-4-
Fourth, prison production of cotton garments, although a century old,
recorded a growth in employment from 5,000 prisoners in 1885 to 16,000
prisoners in 1932, according to the United States Bureau of Labor Statistics.
Large-scale production "by prisons of work shirts, work pants, and overalls,
which were shipped far and near in interstate commerce, forced many small
factories to abandon the field of work clothing. Only large, well-equipped
plants, with a sales force throughout the country, could afford to compete
on a substantial scale with prison labor.
Thus in the past century, the advance in machinery, the development of
the style factor, chemical developments, national advertising, and the growth
of prison competition operated against the continuance of household sewing for
family use and small local production units and favored the large manufacturer.
Of the 3,300 members of the Cotton Garment Industry, 200 large firms now ac-
count for more than half of the total unit production.
Significant Recent Developments
Three distinct trends operating in the Cotton Garment Industry, ever-
prior to 1929, were: (l) movement of factories from lew York City to small
towns in Pennsylvania and Maryland; (2) substantial increases in the number
of Cotton Garment employees in the South; and (3) increasing percentage of
garments sold direct to retailers instead of through wholesalers.
General Operation of the Industry
The Industry is composed of manufacturers who own their own plants;
manufacturers who do not own their oim plants, but who perform some of the
operations of manufacture and contract for other operations — such as
stitching; contractors as such; and wholesale distributors who maintain es-
tablishments for the wholesale distribution of the merchandise through of-
fices and stock rooms, but who contract for the entire process of manufacture
with contractors.
While it is difficult to describe the process of manufacture for so many
as sixteen diversified industries, it may be said that the general practice
is for any of the manufacturers in the above-mentioned categories to purchase
raw materials, such as piece goods, linings, thread, buttons, and trimmings
from sources all over the country. The piece goods are cut on the premises
of either the manufacturer or the contractor, and then fabricated, into stock
which is stored in suitably located stock rooms or distributing points through
the country and sold to retailers and jobbers for consumer distribution.
Number and Location of Establishments
The Code Authority estimates that for the year 1934 the total number of
concerns in the Industry amounted to 3,300, and that the total number of
plants in the Industry was 3,700. The Industry is made up of firms which,
for the most part, have only one establishment. Code Authority figures in
Table I indicate that of the total 3,300 firms, 3,150 have one establishment
only.
8312
-5-
TABLE I
MEMBERS OP THE INDUSTRY CLASSIFIED
ACCORDING TO NUMBER OE ESTABLISHMENTS; 1934
Number Number of Concerns with
of Specified Number of
Establishments Establishments
Total number of concerns 3,300
Total number of establishments 3,700
One establishment only 3,150
Two establishments 91
Three establishments 23
Eour establishments 16
Eive establishments 5
Six establishments or more 15
Source; Cotton Garment Code Authority, Statistical Division,
Payroll Reports.
Data to show location by states are not available for the entire number
of establishments estimated in Table I. The location of 3,562 establishments
in all branches of the Cotton Garment Industry in 1934 is shown in Table II.
This information was compiled by the Code Autnority and comparable data for
previous years are not available as the Census of Manufactures material covers
only the shirt and work clothing branches of the Industry. As will be noted
from Table II, the Cotton Garment Industry is widely scattered throughoiit the
United States. The states possessing the largest number of establishments
are New York, with 786; Pennsylvania, with 548; New Jersey, with 258; Cali-
fornia, with 230; Massachusetts, with 206, and Illinois, with 191.
Capital Investment
Dr. Alfred Calien, Statistician for the Cotton Garment Code Authority,
has estimated that the capital investment for the entire Cotton Garment In-
dustry in 1929 was $250,000,000. This is a revision of an estimate of
$200,000,000 which a group of large manufacturers in the Industry made for
the NRA hearings prior to the drafting of the Cotton Garment Code. The figure
$200,000,000 was estimated upon the basis of products from the Census of
Manufactures, but since all Cotton Garment products were not included in the
sales figures used at that time, the estimate has been increased to
$250,000,000.
8312
-6-
TABLE II
NUMBER OP ESTABLISHMENTS, BY STATES
State
U.S. Total
California
Connecticut
Delaware
Georgia
Illinois
Indiana
Iowa
Kansas
Kentucky
Maine
Maryland
Mas s achus e 1 1 s
Michigan
Minnesota,
Missouri!
New Jersey
Hew York
North Carolina
Ohio
Oklahoma
Pennsylvania
Tennessee
Texas
Virginia
Washington
West Virginia
Wisconsin
Other States "of
1929 a/ 1931 a/ 1933 a/
1,374
44
24
i
20
57
-13
20
10
11
13
53
38
11
21
50
S3
332
17
44
8
263
24
43
22
7
5
21
103
1,249
45
26
7
20
46
41
19
7
6
8
53
42
17
19
44
55
292
18
35
7
238
' 26
38
24
6
15
95
1,143
31
22
7
21
42
13
8
12
4
63
51
11
11
40
47
229
17
30
3
220
32
41
21
5
S
12
100
1934
3,562
230
85
20
57
191
75
25
18
27
18
144
206
53
61
130
258
786
33
98
16
548
47
121
41
41
22
51
160
Source: 1929, 1931 and 1933 data are from Census of Manufactures,
reports for "Shirts" and "Work Clothing" only. 1934 data
are from the Cotton Garment Code Authority, covering all
products of the Industry.
a/ Data for shirts and work clothing only, and excluding establish-
ments whose annual production is less than $5,000.
b/ Includes the following in 1934: Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi,
and Ehode Island, with 15 establishments each; Oregon, 14;
Florida, 13; Nebraska, 11; Arkansas, Colorado, Utah, and Vermont,
10 each; South Carolina, S; lew Hampshire, 7; District of Columbia,
Montana, 1. The number of establishments in these states was
correspondingly small in the earlier years.
8312
Uumber of Failures and Turnover Among Firms
Ho data are available on the number of failures nor the amount of
liabilities involved, hat the high rate of turnover among firms in the
Industry is indicated "by the following figures from the Census of Manufac-
tures and the Statistical Division of the Cotton Garment Code Authority.
Census figures show that the number of establishments- making shirts and
work clothing declined from 1,374 in 1929 to 1,143 in 1933. l/ On the
other hand, the Cotton Garment Code Authority has submitted figures cover-
ing about half the establishments in all branches of the Industry which
show that during the period July 1929 to March 1934, inclusive, 444 estab-
lishments commenced business. Because of the small amount of capital and
equipment necessary in the manufacture of cotton garments, many small-scale
plants are operated for a time and then, on account of labor troubles,
financial difficulties, or other causes, they are closed and the owner may
subsequently open a, new factory in a more favorable location. Thus there is
a continuous flux in the number and location of establishments in the Cotton
Garment Industry.
Present Financial Condition, of the Industry
Only nine Cotton Garment firms reported financial figures to Moody's
or to Standard Statistics, and only seven of these companies recorded their
data, for the calendar years. These seven firms reported net income of
$5,825,950 in 1929, $419,562 in 1931, $4,801,851 in 1933, and $2,969,253 in
1934.
Value of Products and Volume of Production
The total dollar volume of products for the Industry, as defined by
the Code, for the years 1923, 1931 and 1933 is not available, but has been
estimated by the Cotton Garment Code Authority on the basis of Census data
for groups selected from Census Reports on the major apparel Industries.
The estimates a,re as follows:
1329 $600,000,000
1931 400,000,000
1933 420,000,000
Volume of $500,000,000 for the year 1934 has been estimated from label
orders to the Cotton Garment Code Authority and average value figures sub-
mitted on production reports to the Code Authority's Statistical Division.
The total value and volume of sales of each specified product for the years
1929-1934 are presented in Table III.
Das is on which Volume and Value were Determined
Census figures are exact records of production — for concerns whose
annual production amounts to $5,000 or more — in thousands of garments and
in dollar value, for those products for which distinct Census classifica-
tions were given. For some garments, however, such as women's and children's
1/ The Census figures refer only to plants manufacturing shirts and work
clothing whose annual production is $5,000 or more.
8312
underwear and nightwear, the Census does not provide separate classifica-
tions for cotton, silk and rayon, For other products, such as men's cotton
wash suits and cotton pants (not work clothing), Census figures for 1929,
1931, and 1333 were not considered comparable with Cotton Garment Code
figures for 1934 since these particular products are manufactured to a
considerable extent under other Codes. Likewise, the Census classification
for nurses' uniforms are not comparahle with the Cotton Garment Code
classification since aprons are included in the latter.
Code Authority figures as given for 1934 are "based on lahel sales for
the year ending April 23, 1935. These data were multiplied "by average
value per dozen for each type of garment, as obtained from production re-
ports to the Statistical Division of the Cotton Garment Code Authority.
Five work-clo thing products are included under the work clothing lahel;
namely, overalls, work pants, other pants, playsuits and outerwear.
Separate unit production was estimated for these garments on the "basis of
increased percentages in monthly Census reports of production of work
clothing for 1334 compared with the preceding year, and this was then
adjusted to the change in total unit production of work clothing from the
1933 Biennial Census of Manufactures.
Competing Industries and Products
The Cotton Garment Industry, primarily "because of overlapping codal
definitions, has met with competition from producers under the Codes for
the Lien's Clothing Industry and the Dress Manufacturing Industry. This com-
petition focuses mainly on men's work and wash clothing and women's wash
dresses ,
The Industry has complained "bitterly with respect to competition
emanating chiefly from prison Industries, sheltered work shops, vocational
guidance schools, and imports from Puerto Hico.
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Chapter II
LABOR STATISTICS 1/
The Godo Authority estimates that approximately iOO.OOO wage earners
were attached to the Cotton Garment Industry in 1934. The average numbers of
wage earners "by states for 1329, 1931, 1933 and 1934 are shown in Table IV.
The figures for 1934 are Code Authority data based upon payroll reports sub-
mitted by the Industry and covering the entire Industry. Figures for 1929,
1931, and 1933 cover shirts and work clothing only, as reported in the Census
of Manufactures.
The degree of seasonality of enrpl02nnent in the Industry is indicated by
the breakdown of the number of wage earners by months in 1934, shown in Table
V. Employment fluctuated from the low figure of 172,000 wage earners in Janu-
ary to a high of 221,000 in April.
Seasonal variations in the Cotton Garment Industry occur primarily in
house dresses and men's cotton wash suits which have very busy spring seasons
in preparation for summer sales. The peak seasons for sheep-lined and leather
garments and lumberjacks are in the autumn when preparation is made for winter
sales. Work clothes have more modified peak seasons in the spring and fall,
due to heavy sales in agricultural districts in the corresponding periods.
However, as a whole, the Cotton Garment Industry is believed to be less
seasonal and to give more regular employment to its workers than any other
of the apparel Industries.
i /
lore detailed information, see Exhibit A of Appendix.
8312-2
^1 o_
TABLE IV
AVEBAGE FJMBER OF WAG-S EARNERS, BY STATES,
1929, 1931, 1933, A11D 1934,
AED AVERAGE HOURS PEE. WEEK, 1934
State
Number of Wage Earners
in each State a/
1929 b/ F931 b/ 1933_T/"l934
Average Hours
Per Week,
1934
U. S. Total
98,031 90,343 109,097 200,000
Alabama
792
398
1,422
1,893
32.0
California
2,826
2,196
2, 474
7,030
34.3
Connecticut
2,480
2 956
3,148
4,757
33.1
Delaware
432
'586
598
506
31.2
Georgia
2,642
3,408
2,970
5,071
32.8
Illinois
2,913
1,996
5, 573
12,563
31.9
Indiana
5,380
5, 312
9,174
13,124
51.2
Kentucky
1,510
797
2,089
2, 562
26.8
Loui s iana
1,101
280
313
1,014
33.0
Maryland _c/
5,140
3,150
4,311
3,574
31.5
Massachusetts
2, 026
2,369
2,471
7,767
33.4
Hi chigan
453
825
657
3,916
28.0
Minnesota
924
772
554
2,299
34.7
Mississippi
1,986
4,422
31.3
Missouri
6,796
5, 717
7,072
12,969
31.3
New Jersey
5,717
5,072
5,162
11,065
32.1
New York
16,443
11,403
11,124
17,017
31.6
North Carolina
2,061
2,474
3,261
4,883
31.3
Ohio
3, 563
3,244
5,904
6,853
33.9
Pennsylvania
18,272
20,377
22,727
36,730
28.7
Tennessee
2,315
2,279
3,725
7,932
32.3
Texas
3,604
2,748
3,873
7,332
■34. 4
Virginia
2,093
2, 624
5, 351
4,754
oq 0
West Virginia
454
949
2,620
28.0
Wisconsin
1,046
587
542
3 , 247
26.0
Other States d/
M-R
5,673 8,057
0,090
Source: 1929, 1931, 1933, data are from. Census of Manufactures reports for
"Shirts and Work Clothing" only; 1954 data are from pa3rroll reports
submitted to the Cotton Garment Code Authority, covering all prod-
ucts of the Industr:".
a/ Employees included: Skilled and unskilled workers on the payroll for week
including 15th of month; average for 12 months, 1929 and 1931; average
March, June, September, and December, 1933.
b/ Shirts and work clothing only; and excluding establishments whose annual
production is less than $5,000.
c/ Includes District of Columbia.
(Continued on following page)
8312
-13-
TABLE IV
(Continued"
d/ Includes the following in 1934; Arkansas and Oregon with a total of 900-
1,000 wage earners; Maine, 300-900; Iowa, South Carolina, 700-800; Colorado,
Utah, 600-700; Kansas, Oregon, 400-500; New Hampshire, Vermont, 300-400;
Florida, Nebraska, Rhode Island; 200-300; Montana, Oklahoma, less than
200. The number of employees was correspondingly snail in the earlier
years. The average hours per week for these states ranged between 28.6
and 34.7.
TABLE V
SEASONALITY OE EMPLOYMENT, 1934
¥eek Ending
Nearest
Number of
Total
Total
the 15
th
Wage Earners
Man-Hours a/
Payrolls" a/
January
172, 000
22,336,000
$8,247,000
February
191,000
24,524,000
8,969,000
March
205,000
30,344,000
11,371,000
April
221,000
32,595,000
12,268,000
May
215,000
31,341,000
12,139,000
June
201,000
28,349,000
11,227,000
Jul',"
184,000
24,844,000
9,471,000
Aug-:<vi
193,000
26,560,000
10,158,000
Sep ; ruber
205,000
29,090,000
11,230,000
October
202,000
29,011,000
11,170,000
Nov=jibcr
201,000
28,781,000
11,080,000
December
191,000
24,310,000
9,913,000
j\ vsrap'e
for Year
198,417
27,673,800
10,503,600
Source: Payroll reuorts to the Statistical Division of the Cotton Garment
Code Authority.
a/ Figures are estimated in round numbers from concerns representing three-
fourths of the employment in the Industry.
Wa^es Paid by the Industry
The Code Authority estimates that total annual wages for the Industry in
1934 amounted to $120,000,000. During the years 1929, 1931 and 1933 payments
to wage earners producing work clothing and shirts only ranged from a high
of $70,075,000 in 1929 to a low of $52,184,000 in 1933. A breakdown of these
totals by states is presented in Table VI.
8312
-14-
TABLE VI
TOTAL AMUAL WAGES, 3Y STATES a/
1929 £/ 1931 b/ 1933 b/ 1934
State (Thou sands)
U. S. Total $70,075 $53,604 $52,184 $120,000
Alabama
California
Connecticut
Delaware
Georgia
Illinois
Indiana
Iowa
Kentucky-
Maryland
Massachusetts
Michigan
Minnesota
Mississippi
Missouri
New Jersey
Hew York
North 'Carolina
Ohio
Pennsylvania
Tennessee
Texas
Virginia
Washington
West Virginia
Wisconsin
Other States 5,637 4,456 3,464
Source: 1929, 1931, 1933 data are from Census of Manufactures reports for
"Shirts" and "Work Clothing" only; 1934 data are from payroll reports
submitted to Cotton Garment Code Authority covering all products
of the Industry.
a/ Wages consist of total payrolls paid to wage earners during the year.
b/ Data for shirts and work clothing only; and excluding establishments
whose aiuraal production is less than $5,000,
Average Hourly Wage Rates and Average
Hours Worked Per Week
Payroll reports to the Statistical Division of the Cotton Garment Code
Authority revealed that the Industry's average hourly wage rate for 1929
was 28.5 cents; for 1933, 19.3; and 1934, 35.6. Average weekly earnings
3312
4-40
204
509
2,735
2,203
1,597
1,930
1,674
208
218
234
1,451
1,377
1,140
1,987
1,230
1,766
4,116
3, 333
4,327
629
384
391
735
341
768
2,117
1,532
2,139
1,806
1,635
1,584
254
429
295
762
573
361
859
4,712
3,350
3,238
4,727
3,777
2,799
14,348
8,466
6,284
1,133
1,383
1,283
2, 847
2,179
2,021
11,952
10,508
10,441
1,143
994
1,389
1,924
1,319
1,724
1,167
1,196
1,288
552
428
284
229
363
915
492
352
-15-
for the sane years were $13.31, $8,57, and $12,58 respectively. The average
hours per week were 46.7, 44,3, and 34.4, respectively. Average hours per
week for the year 1934, by states, are shown in Table IV, above,
A special tabulation of establishments operating under the Cotton
Garment Code and reporting to the Bureau of Labor Statistics is presented
in Table VII. The average hourly .and weekly earnings and hours worked per
week shown in this table compare very well with the Code Authority data for
1934. In 1933 the Bureau of Labor Statistics figures on average earnings
are somewhat higher than those from the Code Authority while those on average
hours per week are lower.
Number of Employees Under 16 Years of Age.
The Cotton Garment Code Authority advised that there was a negligible
number of employees under 15 years of age in the Industry during 1934, On
the basis of the United States Census of Occupations for 1930, it appears
that 3,9 per cent of the operators in the Shirt Industry were less than
16 years of age. For the entire Cotton Garment Industry for 1930, it can
be estimated that approximately 7,800 employees were under 16 years of age.
According to the Pennsylvania State Department of Labor, weekly wages
of children under 16 in the Clothing Industry in that state were $8,38 in
1926; $3.31 in 1932, and $2.76 in 1933.
8312
-16-
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Cost of Labor Relative to Value of Product
The percentage which the cost of labor is of the value of product in
the Cotton Garment Industry ranged from 19 per cent in 1934 to 21 per cent
in 1931. Attention is again directed to the fact that the figures shown in
Table VIII for 1929, 1931, and 1933 are based on data for shirts and work
clothing only. The figures for 1934 are based upon Code Authority total
value of product estimated from labor and production reports from the Indus-
try.
Additional information relative to labor statistics in the Cotton Garment
Industry is contained in Exhibit A, which is a study prepared by Dr. Alfred
Cahen, Statistician of the Cotton Garment Industry and covers cotton garment
wages and hours for the period July, 1929 to April, 1935, inclusive. This
study presents labor statistics by months for the period above mentioned
and is broken down to cover (l) employment index, (2) weekly wages, (3)
weekly hours, (4) employment in the North, South and border states, (5) hourly
earnings, (6) and per cent change in these items during the first three
months under the 36-hour week.
TABLE VIII
VALUE OF PRODUCT, LABOR COST, AMD COST
OP MATERIALS
Total
Value of Total Labor Cost Total Materials Cost
Product Amount Per Cent Amount Per cent
Year (Thousands) (Thousands) of Total (Thousands) of Total
1929 a/ $366,772 $70,075 19.1 $200,230 54.6
1931 a/ 255,409 53,604 21.0 133,308 52.2
1933 a/ 255,053 52,184 20.5 142,126 55.7
1934 500,000 95,000 19.0 275,000 55.0
Source: 1929, 1931, 1933 data are from Census of Manufactures, reports for
"Shirts" and "Work Clothing" only; 1934 data from Cotton Garment
Code Authority, covering all products of the Industry. Eor the
latter year, total value of products are estimated from label and
production reports; labor and material costs are estimated from a
cost price inquiry by the International Association of Garment
Manuf ac tur e r s .
a/ Data for shirts and work clothing only; and excluding establishments
whose annual production is less than $5,000.
8312
-19-
Chapter III
MATERIALS: RAW AND SEMI- PROCESSED
Principal Materials Used b:r Cotton
Garment Industry
The principal materials used "by the Cotton Garment Industry are cotton
cloth; silk cloth; wool cloth; rayon cloth; cloth composed of mixed fibres;
leather; fleece; thread; buttons; zippers; webbing; and rubber.
It is impossible to indicate the volume of each principal material used
by the Cotton Garment Industry inasmuch as the total production data for these
items are not broken down ta show distribution among this and the several other
Industries using these materials. However, the Cotton Textile Institute has
estimated that the Cotton Garment Industry in 1929 consumed approximately
1,300,000,000 square yards of cotton cloth, which represented around 15 per
cent of the total production of cotton cloth (3,541,545,733 square yards) for
the year 1929.
Source of Production of Materials
Used by the Industry
The Census of Manufactures for 1929 breaks down cotton goods into print
cloth, denims j shirtings, drills, and ginghams. The total value of these items
and the source of production in terms of cotton growing states and New England
states are indicated in Table IX. As already pointed out, however, it is impos-
sible to estimate the proportions of these various items which are used by the
Cotton Garment Industry alone.
Amount Spent for Machinery and Equipment
Ho data, are available on purchases of machines and equipment, but a ques-
tionnaire on changes in machine capacitor, employment, and payrolls sent out by
the Statistical Division of the Cotton Garment Code Authorit3r has elicited in-
formation showing the incres.se in sewing machines for 947 identical plants,
which represent three-fourths of the employment of the Industry. These 947
plants report $108,475 spent for machinery and equipment in 1929, $122,501
in 1933, and $131,229 in 1934.
8312
-20-
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5312
-21-
The source of supply of the sewing machines used "by the Cotton
Garment Industry can he fairly well ascertained hy reference to Tahle X
which shows the total value of all sewing machines and attachments
produced, hy states, for the year 1939.
TABLE X
VALUE OP SEWING- MACHINES AND ATTACHMENTS
PRODUCED, BY STATES, 1929
Number of Per cent of
State Establishments Value of Products Total Value
U. S. Total
39
Illinois
4
Massachusett s
7
New York
15
$45,094,600 100.0
8,783,941 19.5
2,341,851 5.2
1,024,959 2.3
Other States a/ 13 32,943,849 73.1
Source: Census of Manufactures, 1929, Volume II, page 1175.
a/ Connecticut, 3 establishments; Maryland, 1; Missouri 2; New Jersey, 2;
Ohio, 3; Pennsylvania, 2.
Cost of Materials Relative to Value
of Products
The percentage which the cost of materials is of the value of products
is shown in Table VIII above. Special attention is directed to the fact
that data for the years 1929, 1931, and 1933 cover only shirts and work
clothing, whereas the 1934 figures cover the total value of the products
of the Industry as estimated by the Cotton Garment Code Authority.
Additional information relating to costs in various branches of the
Industry is shown in Exhibit B of the Appendix.
8312
-22-
Chapter IV
PRODUCTION MB DISTRIBUTION 1/
Volume and Value of Product s "by States
Table XI presents value of cotton garment products "by states for the
years 1929, 1931, and 1933, and volume of production for 1934. It must "be
noted that data for all years except 1934 are for shirts and work clothing
only. The 1934 data,, which are 'based on label sales, indicate that approx-
imately 47 per cent of production in the Industry originated in the five
states of Indiana, Massachusetts, Missouri, New York and Pennsylvania.
Value and Volume of products Shipped
No data are available on interstate shipments of cotton garments.
However, it is significant to note that 99 per cent of men's collars are
manufactured in New York State although worn by consumers in every state.
Data on sales offices were not required on Code Authority reports,
but several hundred firms submitted such information. One hundred and
thirty-four companies with no plants in New York State maintain sales
offices in New York City; 19 companies with no plants in Illinois have
sales offices in Chicago; 12 companies with no plants in California
maintain sales offices in Los Angeles, and an additional 16 companies
have sales offices in San Francisco. Twenty-three companies maintain
sales offices in Baltimore, St. Louis, Boston, Detroit, Minnesota, Dallas,
Phoenix, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, Seattle, and Omaha, but have no
plants in the states in which these cities are located.
1/ For a breakdown of production costs for various types of garments,
see Exhibit B of the Appendix.
8312
-23-
TABLE XI
VALUE OF PEODUCTS BY STATES, 1929, 1931, 1933
AND VOLUMS OF PRODUCT I OH, 1934
1
.929 a/
1931 a/
1933 a/
1934 b/
Volume
(Thousands
Value
Value
Value
Per Cent
State (Thousands)
(Thousands)
(Thousands)
of Garments)
of Total
U.S. Total
$366,772
$255,409
$255,053
600,000
100.0
Alabama
1,846
783
2,350
5,400
0.9
Arkansas
1,649
979
1,055
2,400
0.4
California
11,321
7,704
6,932
18,600
3.1
Connecticut
8,013
5,574
5,474
16,200
2.7
Delaware
597
241
1,037
3,600
0.6
Georgia
6,753
5,732
8,159
15,600
2,6
Illinois
9.14C
4,999
7,588
31,200
5.2
Indiana
20,682
14,893
19,476
37,800
6.3
Iowa
3,542
1,968
1,853
3,600
0.6
Kansas
972
725
601
1,200
0.2
Kentucky
5,746
2,923
4,317
7,800
1.3
Louisiana
2,784
703
680
2,400
0.4
Maine
1,715
729
207
1,200
0.2
Maryland
13,039
10,447
12,852
22,200
3.7
Massachusetts
9,188
6,962
6,672
31 , 200
5.2
Michigan
1,426
1,805
1,246
11 , 400
1.9
Minnesota
3,592
2,306
1.820
6,000
1.0
Mississippi
3,945
12,600
2.1
Missouri
22,816
12,743
13,407
42,600
7.1
New Jersey
26,393
15,912
11 , 203
34,800
5.8
New York
87,744
65,883
44,207
70,800
11.8
llorth Carolina 6,324
6,171
6,714
18,600
3.1
Ohio
13,331
8,154
8,590
22,800
3.8
Pennsylvania
54, 540
39,935
43,201
96,000
16.0
Tennessee
8,536
7,234
7,782
24,000
4.0
Texas
9,783
5,530
8,281
16,200
2.7
Virginia
5,670
4,856
7,411
15,600
2.6
Washington
2,974
1,729
1,449
2,400
0.4
West Virginia
1,432
2,725
9,600
1.6
Wisconsin
4,843
1,936
1,714
8,400
1.4
Other
States c/
20,381
15,853
12,105
7,800
13.0
Source: 1929
, 1931, and 1933 data
are from Census of Manufactures re-oorts
on "shirts" and "Work Clothing" only; 1934 data are from label
orders of the Cotton Garment Code Authority, covering all products
of the Industry
(Continued on following page)
8312
-24-
TABLE XI
( Continued)
a/ Data for shirts and work clothing only; and excluding establishments
whose annual production is less than $5,000.
b/ Value not given for individual states in 1934. Total value was
$500,000.
c/ Includes the following in 1934, with estimated production of 600,000
to 1,200,000 garments: District of Columbia, Florida, Nebraska,
Hew Hampshire, Oregon, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Utah, Vermont.
The volume for these states was correspondingly small in earlier
years.
Value and Volume of products Ex-ported from the United States
Table XII presents the exports of cotton garments from the United
States by value ' and volume for the years 1929, 1931, 1933, and 1934.
Particular attention is drawn to the fact that figures for dozens are
not comparable with dollar values since no unit export data are available
for some of the garments included. It is noted that exports declined in
value from the 1929 high of $5,492,395 to $1,697,696 in 1933. However,
an upturn to $2,195,987 was registered in 1934, although volume in 1934
did not quite attain the 1933 level.
TABLE XII
EXPORTS BY VALUE AND VOLUME
Exports 1929 1931 1933 1934
Value
(Dollars) a/ $5,492,395 $3,391,545 $1,697,696 $2,195,987
Volume
(Dozens) b/ 688,976 410,225 268,461 240,156
Source: Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce, Foreign Commerce and
Navigation of the United States. Figures for dozens are not
comparable with dollar values since no unit export data are
available for some of the garments included,
a/ Data for collars and cuffs, cotton overalls, breeches and pants,
underwear (not knit), shirts, dresses, skirts and waists, and
other cotton clothing,
b/ Data for all classifications listed in a/ except "other cotton
clothing."
Nature of Advertising
Members of the Cotton Garment Industry advertise by magazine, radio
and newspaper, on both a national and a local scale. A comparatively
8312
-25-
small number of firms in the Cotton Garment Industry utilizes all of
these means of advertising.
Shift of Centers of Production
Between 1929 and 1935, the Census recorded a shift in employment on
work clothing and shirts from New York, New England, and other high-wage
states to Pennsylvania, Maryland, and the South, where lower wages prevail.
This shift is indicated by the percentage change in employment between
1929 and 1933 presented in Table XIII.
TABLE XIII
CHANGE IN EMPLOYMENT BETWEEN 1929 AND 1933,
BY PRINCIPAL STATES
State
Percentage Change in Employment
Between 1929 and 1933
Alabama
Arkansas
California
Connecticut
Delaware
Georgia
Illinois
Indiana
Iowa
Kansas
Kentucky
Louisiana
Maine
Maryland a/
Michigan
Missouri
New Hampshire
New Jersey
New York
North Carolina
Ohio
Oklahoma
Pennsylvania
Tennessee
Texas
Utah
Vermont
Virginia
Washington
West Virginia
+
80
+
2
-
12
4-
27
+
38
+
12
+
23
+
56
-
28
-
21
+
38
72
80
+
37
!
T
45
+
4
-
46
-
10
-
32
+
53
+
10
-
52
-t-
24
+
61
1-
7
-
8
-
41
+
60
-
32
+
105
Source: Computed from figures in Table IV of this report,
a/ Includes District of Columbia.
8312
-26-
Productive Capacity
The Cotton Garment Code Authority has estimated the productive
capacity of the Industry and the percentage utilized for the year 1934.
(See Table XIV). It is noted that the 1934 production of 600,000,000
units represents 54 per cent of the theoretical maximum capacity output.
The 138,393 machines operated represented 63.6 per cent of the number
of machines in place. The actual machine hours of operation represent
54 per cent of capacity machine hours of operation. The Code Authority
stated that these figures are "based on theoretical maximum capacity, i.e.,
100 per cent of the machines working 40 hours per week. In contrast
to this, actual working capacity, which may he figures on the "basis of
38 hours per week, with 85 per cent of the machines in operation,
would have "been approximately 896,000,000 garments in 1934. Thus,
1934 production (600,000,000 units) may "be estimated at approximately
6? per cent of actual working capacity (896,000,000 units).
TABLE XI Y
PRODUCTIVE CAPACITY AKD PER CENT
UTILIZED: 1934
Items 1934
Theoretical Maximum Capacity Output (Units) 1,110,000,000
Actual Production (Units) 600,000,000
per Cent 54
Number of Machines in Place 217,600
Number of Machines Operated 138,393
Per Cent 63.6
Capacity Machine Hours of Operation 452,608,000
Actual Machine Hours of Operation 244,678,824
Per Cent 54
Source: Questionnaire on machine capacity, and monthly payroll reports
to the Statistical Division of the Cotton C-amient Code Authority.
8312
-27-
Cha.pt er V
TRADE PRACTICES
Unfair Trade Practices Prevalent Before Code
A brief description is given below of a number of unfair trade prac-
tices which have been prevalent in the Cotton Garment Industry.
Unfair Return of Merchandise. - Retailers and jobbers tool: unfair and
unjust advantage of manufacturers by the arbitrary return of merchandise
without just cause. Manufacturers, therefore, got merchandise back some-
times many months, and even a year, after delivery. This resulted in the
return of tremendous quantities of merchandise which were later offered as
distress merchandise. These goods were then sold below the market, there-
by resulting in losses to the respective Industries.
It is claimed that unreasonable return of worn merchandise worked a
hardship on the manufacturer and became a habit with retailers, for the
purpose of boosting their sales at the expense of the seller. Returns of
unseasonable merchandise because of carry-overs created a situation whereby
merchandise had to be sold by the manufacturer at terrific losses.
Secret Rebates. - Secret rebates were allowed to a particular class of
customers, but not to all customers.
Freight Allowances. - Freight allowances were granted to certain sec-
tions, but not equally to all trade areas, thus giving selected manufacturers
an advantage in a particular market.
Excessive Terms. - The allowance of excessive terms to a particular class
of customer, but not given uniformly to all customers, created an unfair com-
petitive advantage.
Consignment Selling. - Many types of garments coming under the juris-
diction of the Cotton G-arnent Code were produced by large producers who were
financially strong and who have benefitted through the selling of their prod-
cuts to stores in various sections of the coimtry on a pLirely consignment
basis. This has resulted in lowering price levels because the retailer had
no -risk, and because he had the privilege of returning the merchandise. The
retailer could also offer to sell this merchandise cheaper than his compet-
itor who had bought it outright from other members of the Industry. The
accumulation of returned and soiled left-overs from the retailer caused ad-
ditional distress in the market when these goods were finally dumpted. Con-
signment selling created an advantage to highly capitalized concerns, at the
disadvantabe of smaller producers.
Advertising Allowances. - The ability to grant advertising allowances
created a condition advantageous to highly capitalized concerns, and reacted
to the disadvantage of smaller producers who could not afford to grant such
allowances.
Inaccurate Advertising. - Misrepresentation of quality, content, color,
size, fabric, and wearability misled the consumer, to his detriment, and gave
the offender an undue competitive advantage.
3312
-23-
Improper Cancellations and Exchanges. - This attempt on the part of
the purchaser to pass on his legitimate risk to the manufacturer helped to
cause over-production and economic losses.
Wilful!"' Destructive Price Cutting. - This method of destroying com-
petitors' gains in a particular field through the introduction of prices
"below cost for the sole purpose of gaining an unfair competitive advan-
tage in that field of operation affected the stability of labor standards
and price levels.
Lack of Standards and Arbitration Facilities. - Lack of standards in
the Industrie created a destructive method of merchandising to the detri-
ment of the consumer by lowering the generally accepted Quantitative stand-
ard measurements of garments. Many members of this Industry, for the
purpose of gaining a price advantage, cut down on ciastomarily accepted
standards of measurements of garments, without labelling such garments siib-
standard.
Lack of arbitration facilities for the determination of disputes con-
cerning unfair trade practices created an ill feeling among purchasers and
sellers. Lack of such facilities prevented any adjustment, thereby tend-
ing to perpetuate the existence of unfair conditions.
Unfair Competition of Prison Made Goods. - The low cost of orison-
made goods demoralized the price structure of cotton garments, causing
price cutting among manufacturers, and resulting in the shutting down of
free plants and in throwing free workers out of employment.
The prisons began to make merchandise many years ago, and as early
as 1879 the competition of that class of merchandise with the free-made
goods started to have a telling effect. Although the volume of cotton
garments in general prodticed by convict labor was not great, its con-
sequences upon the few branches of the Industry with which it does com-
pete have proved serious and destructive. This effect can be directly
traced to the fact that prison-made goods were placed -upon the market in
competition with merchandise made by free labor.
Competition of prison-made garments continued daring the period of
Code operation and a recent example is given with respect to the production
of prison-made work shirts, which, since 1914, has had considerable effect
on the work-shirt branch of the Industry. In April 1934, chambray work
shirts sold for about $5.50 to $6.50 per dozen, but the price has recently
been reduced to $3.90 per dozen. This decline is attributed directly
to the selling of similar shirts made by prison labor. A like condition
existed in the summer of 1935 with regard to higher grade work snirts which
were quoted as low as $5.37-;j per dozen bv free manuf acturers a.s against
$6.50 per dozen a year ago. Competing garments of similar type produced in
prisons were cruoted at prices ranging rron $.75 to $1.25 below the above
prices.
Labor employed in the making of work shirts and work pants has always
been paid the lowest hourly wages in the Cotton Garment Industry, averaging
only 22 cents for work shirts and 25 cents for work pants in 1929, as com-
pared with 32 cents for overalls a line which has been relatively free from
prison competition. In March 1933, work shirt hourly wages were 16 cents
8312
-29-i
and work pants 18 cents, compared with 22 cents an hour for overall workers.
In March 19S5, work shirts end work pants producers were still paying the
lowest wages in the Cotton Garment Industry, hut had registered unparalleled
gains in hourly wages of 136 and 129 per cent, respectively, in the past
two years.
Spread of Unfair Trade Practices
Several instances are cited 7«here an unfair competitive practice in
one area spread to another area, or affected the flow of interstate commerce.
In the Northwest, certain large producers of heavy outerwear were in
the habit of granting November 1st dating, net 60 days, on merchandise
which they sold at the "beginning of that year and shipped any time before
November 1st. This practice spread to all other sections of the country,
but could be imitated only by "the large producers. It was strongly op-
posed by the smaller manufacturers because they could not meet such competi-
tion.
Early in May, 1934, a large overall producer in North Carolina reduced
his price by $1.00 per dozen, or 11.6 per cent. Within ten days, two other
nearby manufacturers, located in Virginia, slashed their prices by a simi-
lar amount. Within thirty days complaints were registered from Arkansas,
Illinois, Indiana, Maryland, Missouri, Ohio, Tennessee and Wisconsin. An
inquiry sent by the Compliance Division of the Cotton Garment Code Authori-
ty in December elicited the facts that five large overall producers, whose
factories are located in Georgia, Illinois, Kentucky, North Carolina, Tenn-
essee, and Virginia, despite geographical distances and state lines, were
so vitally influenced by competition that all were selling at $7.62r£ per
dozen, or 11.6 per cent lower than the price prior to the slash by one large
producer seven months earlier.
Effect of Individual Members on Price
Structure of Industry
In all product groups of the Cotton Garment Industry with the excep-
tion of house dresses, the largest firms represent more than 5 per cent of
the total unit output, and a much larger proportion of the -production
within a given price range, so that one such leader is capable of break-
ing the market price.
8312
-30-
CHAPTSR VI
GENERAL INFORMATION
Trade Organizations
The International Association of Garment Manufacturers was organized
in 1908 in order to take care of the various interests represented by manu-
facturers who subsequently came under the jurisdiction of the Cotton Garment
Code. In addition, many of the trade associations listed "below are also
members of this parent organization.
National Association of Shirt Manufacturers
National Association of Boys1 Blouse and Shirt Manufacturers
National Pajama Manufacturers' Council, Incorporated
National Association of Collar Manufacturers
National Association of Work Clothes Manufacturers
The Union-Made Garment Manufacturers' Association of America
National Association of Work Shirt Manufacturers
National Association of Sheep Lined, and Leather Garment Manufacturers
Associated Pants Manufacturers of America
National Association of House Dress Manufacturers, Incorporated
National Oiled Cotton Garment Manufacturers' Association
National Association of Nurses' and Maids' Aprons and Uniforms
Shirt Institute, Incorporated
National Association of Hen's Shirts and Boys' Blouse Contractors
Associated Manufacturers of Washable Service Apparel, Incorporated
Association of Cotton Undergarment and Sleeping Garment Manufacturers
The above associations were formed for the purpose of taking care of the
interests of the manufacturers in the indicated branches of the Industry. They
later became active in the promulgation of the Code for the Industry.
The Industry is also organized in the following regional associations:
The Southern Garment Manufacturers' Association
The Baltimore Needle Trade Association
New England Garment Manufacturers' Association
Men's Apparel Industries of Los Angeles
The Central Garment Manufacturers' Association
The Southwest Work Clothes Manufacturers' Association
Ohio-Indiana Garment Manufacturers' Association
Pacific Coast House Dress Manufacturers' Association
San Francisco Manufacturers' and Wholesalers ' Association
The Southern Garment Manufacturers' Association, for example, is an asso-
ciation which has a membership of manufacturers located in the southern area
and is primarily interested in regional problems, such as wage differentials.
The other associations have similar problems of both local and national scope.
The membership of these organizations consists of both large and small
manufacturers who in many cases are members of both local and national asso-
ciations as well as the parent body, the International Association of Garment
Manufacturers .
2312
-31-
La"bor Organizations
Estimates l/ of the membership of the unions representing workers in
the Cotton Garment Industry are given below. Membership figures in any
branch of the Industry must necessarily be approximate, since, for example,
lumberjacks are sometimes made in shirt factories, and the union would not
have the workers employed in their production separately classified. Also,
although the Amalgamated may have a figure for its total membership of
pants workers, it does not have them classified according to the Code under
which the manufacturer operates, i.e., whether it is the Men's Clothing or
the Cotton Garment Code.
Name of Union
Total
Membership
Membership in
Cotton Garment
Industry
Amalgamated Clothing
Workers of America
United Garment Workers
of America
International Ladies'
Garment Workers' Union
150,000
HO ,000
220,000
Ho, 000
20,000
20,000
ilame of Union
Product
Number of Employees.
Total in
Specified Number in
Branch Union
Amalgamated Clothing
Workers of America
United Garment Workers
of America
Men's shirts, pajamas,
and boys' blouses
Heavy oxiterwear and
sheep lined and leather
Men's and boys' pants
Men's shirts
Overalls, work shirts
and work pants
Men's and boys' pants
62,000 30,000-35,000
lH,000 6,000- S,000
7,600 H,000
62,000 5,000
62,000 15,000
7,600 Not available
International Ladies'
Garment Workers '
Union
House dresses and
nurses' and
maids ' uniforms
women's undergar-
ments
Ho, 600 15,000
5,200 Hot available
Relationship between Labor and Management
In the Work- Clothes Industry. - The United Garment Workers Union is the
oldest union in the cotton garment field. Organized in IS92, it has for many
years been strong in the work—clothes field. Relations between the United
1/ Representatives of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America and of the
United Garment Workers of America could not be reached to verify these fig-
ures as to union membership, but they are correct to the best information
of the writer.
S312
-32-
Garment Workers and the Union-Hade Garment Manufacturers Association have
"been cordial, and have redounded "both to the "benefit of the manufacturers
and the workers. Garments manufactured by union labor "bear the union label
and are, in general, purchased by union members in preference to non-union-
made work-clothes. Wages in the union houses are relatively high.
In the Shirt and Men's Pajama Industries. - Workers in the shirt and
pajama industries in general were not organized, except in Hew York City, un-
til the spring of 1933- Attempts to organize had been made at intervals
previous to that time, but had been, on the whole, unsuccessful. In the
spring of 1933, the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America began a general
drive to organize shirt workers in Pennsylvania. At that time, shirt workers
in that area were receiving a wage of from $3 to $7 per week. Strikes were
called in some cases to enforce the $5 per week minimum. Daring the two years
since the beginning of this campaign, more than one-half of the shirt and
pajama workers in the United States have been organized. While there have been
a number of hard fought strikes of from 3 to 7 weeks' duration, strikes have
not occurred once collective bargaining relations have been established.
In the House-Dress Industry. - Relations between cotton-wash-dress manu-
facturers and the unions representing the employees in that industry have not
been so smooth as in the other industries mentioned. An organizing campaign
has been carried on in this Industry for the past 2 years with some success.
The lew York and Philadelphia markets are organized, and the union has some
membership in Milwaukee, Chicago, and St. Louis. A number of bitter strikes
occurred during the spring of 1935 with an accompaniment of arrests, injunc-
tions, etc.
Sm/oloyee Re-presentation Plans
While some plants which have no agreements with national labor unions
have employee representation plans, these are relatively few as compared with
the total number in the Industry.
Effect of the Code on the Industry
Average Hours. - Under the ERA the average hours worked have been re-
duced from about HH in March 1933, to approximately 31, or a decline of near-
ly 33 Per cent.
Hourly Rates of Pay. - These have risen since the bottom of the de-
pression in March 1933, by 117 per cent, a very exceptional achievement.
Hourly rates of pay are even U7 per cent higher than in July I929.
Employment. - In the Cotton Garment Industry employment did not decline
appreciably during the depression so that February 1935 records an advance
of" almost 10 per cent over both March 1933 and July 1929. By virtue of
maintaining employment and long hours during the depression, cotton garment
producers were in the unique position among industries of having an expand-
ing unit production. Sales of cotton garments, particularly work clothing,
increased because unemployed and impoverished workers and farmers could not
afford the more expensive apparel. On the other hand, during 193^> tiie
period of business revival, Census figures on work clothing showed a decline
S312
-33-
in production of k per cent from the previous year. Inasmuch as employment
in the Industry was sustained during the depression, the principal effect of
ERA. upon this Industry has not 'been in the field of reemployment, but in
raising wages.
Weekly Wa^es. - The weekly -or,y envelope of the worker indicates his
purchasing power. The advance of $U.Ho per worker from March 1933 to Feb-
ruary 1935, multiwlieu by 200,000 employees, adds $880,000 per week to the
Industry's payroll, or an increase of $^5, 000, 000 annually. This consti-
tutes the Industry's contribution toward increasing purchasing power under
ERA.. Weekly wages are only 3 per cent lower than 1929, while living costs
have fallen 20 per cent.
Summary. - The gains under
which follow:
July
1222
the Jode are summarized in the figures
Weekly hours
Hourly wages
Weekly wages
Index of employment
US. 6
$ .2S6
$13.37
100.0
March
1933 .
$ .133
$ £'.59
55.7
February
1Q5'4
32.1
$ .356
$11. ih
99-6
February
1935
30.9
$ .U19
$12.99
109.1
So^lrce: Prepared by the Cotton G-ament Code Authority.
In addition, 10,000 child
— « have been replaced by adult
The foregoing figures are
ing lU7,S9S workers in Februar;
Cotton Garment Industry. Data
available prior to the work of
ment Code Authority, and this 2
achievement of the Code.
laborers — more than in any other industry
workers.
on the basis of 979 identical plants report-
- 1935, or approximately three-fourths of the
covering the Cotton Garment Industry were not
the Statistical Division of the Cotton Gar-
lobilization of factual evidence is another
The Cotton O-armcnt Industry has registered these gains in spite of
unfair competition from prisons, sheltered work shops, vocational guidance
schools, and imports from Puerto Pico. The average of 19 cents per hour in
1933, as cited above, refers to the entire Cotton Garment Industry, but many
individual plants have submitted records to the Statistical Division of the
Cotton Garment Code Authority admitting payments as low as 3 cents an hour.
Hoxirs were in some instances not less than 5U per week. Only one-fifth of
the total employees were receiving as high as the present minimum wage prior
to ERA., while two-thirds of the workers are now paid above the Code minimum.
Per Cent of the Products of the Industry which are Trade Marked
On the basis of information from the International Association of
Garment Manufacturers, it may be estimated that approximately 15 per cent of
the cotton garment products are trade marked. This figure refers to the
proportion of the unit volume of the Industry that is trade marked and is
not a per cent of the total value of products made in the Industry.
8312
-34-
Foreign Competition
Imports of all cotton wearing apparel from foreign countries, excluding'
Puerto Hico and the Philippine Islands, amounted in 193^ to only $238, 066,
or an infinitesimal fraction of the $500,000,000 sales "by cotton garment manu-
facturers. Nevertheless, Japanese shipments to the United States more than
doubled those of 1933. while imports from England and France remained at a
stationary level, and shipments from G-ermany, Italy, Belgium and Holland de-
clined sharply. Japan now ships a greater dollar volume of cotton garments
to the United States than any other country. Total dollar volume of cotton
garments from all countries rose only 4. 6 per cent over 1933, which probably
indicates an actual decline in units shipped owing to price rises.
The following tabulations present breakdowns upon which the above
summary is based.
1S33 123i±
Average Average
Shirts Dozen Value Value Do sen Value Value
All Countries 2,991 $11,731 $ 3.92 1,595 $11,397 $ 7*15
Japan 2,832 a, 512 3-01 1,347 6,259 4.65
England l48 2,819 19.0U 160 4,055 25.34
All Other Cotton Wearing Apparel
All Countries $216,699 $226,669
Japan 39,260 79*209
England 75,820 76,172
Prance 38,367 34,198
Ge rmany 3 5 , 544 21 , 683
Belgium 5,538 3,375
Hong Kong 1,057 1,535
Italy 5,810 1,467
Canada 1,0 60 713
Netherlands 9,423 19
All Other Countries 4,820 8,298
Source: Prepared by the Cotton Garment Code Authority.
Duty-free shipments of cotton garments from the Philippine Islands in-
creased from $1,830,874 in 1933 to $2,120,684 in 1934. The price rise would
probably account for this advance in dollar value.
Shipments of cotton garments from Puerto Rico to the United States
showed a slight increase in 1934 as compared with 1933- Most of this in-
crease occurred, however, during the first 8 months of the year. During the
last 4 months of the year the higher wage scale enforced by the ERA Needle-
work Code in Puerto Eico resulted in a decline of 6 per cent in the volume
shipped from September to December 1934, inclusive, compared with the same
months in the previous year. These shipments were all free of duty.
8312
'. i
-35-
133U
Dozen15"3 Value Dozen Va^e
Women's dresses, ,Qq g^7 $2.289, 09^
skirts ana waists M %^% ^37 1^305
Women' s underwear f1'0?* ~r{oiZl 1+5? 592 1,172,372
Children's dresses 1+79,302 *,Og2,738 ^,»*
Men's and toys' . 6 70 6g6 ^37,9^9
clothing 38,131 ^,^D/
Nightgowns and i.USl.lOO 5,726,351
-oajamas J±±*Dj~l _■>> ^ '^— — - - ,
2?263t545 Ji£^9J^_^^^
Source: Prepared hy the Cotton Garment Code Authority.
T.ist of Experts
stttCT nOLLAB. TrnngHKEAH. PAJAMA HJffiOTrAggTO^S
Mr. C. H. Palmer, President Cluett^aoody J Co 330 "^-fe"^
Mr. Ralph Hunter, President, Hall-hartwell ft 00., Inc.,
,1. /I^Phnii-ps President, Phillios-Jones Corp., 1225 Broadway, H.T.Q.
Mr. A. 0. fniiJ-xps, fi«^c , - ,.„„, Pnrn 192^ Broadway, K. i.C.
Mr. L. J. Treuhaft, Treasurer P^ll-P^o.e. Oorpj. 12 ^ J y> Q<
Mr. A. P. Hichtmyer, Sr. , Knothe Brothers .0., 24 ..est
BOYS' BLOUSE,, SHIHD ASP WASE^SgiQAgglACTg^S
Mr. George P. Wakefield, President, The Ilaynee Co.,
350 Fifth Ave. , IT. Y. C.
Mr. M, Edward Rowan, Vice President, Elder Mfg. Co.,
St. Louis, Mo.
■„>. Lied l. aaa n,^.*.* 0°^ ^^.pm-
-36-
UORK-SHIRT MiANUFACTURERS
Mr. W. E. Stephens, President, W. B. Stephens Mfg. Co., Nashville, Tenn.
Mr. I. Pine, President, M. 'Fine & Sons Mfg. Co., 93 Worth St., IT. Y. C.
SHEEPLINED AND LEATHER GARMENT IvIANUFACTUIGCRS
Mr. Robert L. Smith, Partner, United Sheeplined Clo. Co., Newark, IT. J.
Mr. E. C. Ostermann, President, Pried, Osteraian Co., Milwaukee, Wise.
WORK-PANTS MANUFACTURERS
Mr. Lester Rosenbaum, President, Salaclaaoo Pants Co., Kalamazoo, Mich.
Mr. Sidney Moyer, President, Mover Mfg. Co., Youngstown, Ohio.
COTTON HOUSE-DRESS MAITUEACTURERS
Mr. ¥. J. Schminke, Vice President, Ely & Walker 13. B. Co., St. Louis, Mo.
Mr. S. L. Hoffman, President, 3. L. Hoffman & Co., 1350 Broadway, N.Y.C.
OILED COTTON GARMENT MAFJFACTURERS
Mr. Edward W. Swan, President, A. J. Tower Co., Boston, Mass.
Mr. H. C. Fox, President, Standard Oil Clothing Co., 210 East 152nd St.,
N. Y. C.
NURSES' AND MIPS' APRONS AND UNIFORMS
Mr. Charles B. Jacobs, President, Jacobs Brothers, Inc.,
1350 Broadway, N. Y. C.
MEN'S SHIRTS AND BOYS' BLOUSE CONTRACTORS
Mr. Meyer S. Feinberg, President, Unity Shirt Co., Derby, Conn.
WASHABLE SERVICE APPAREL MANUFACTURERS
Mr. Mont Levy, President, Angelica Jacket Co., St. Louis, Mo.
COTTON UNDERGARMENT AiTD SLEEPING GARMENT MANUFACTURERS
Mr. Sidney L. Bachrach, Steiner-Liberty Corp. ,
Baltimore, Md.
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEER IN COTTON GARMENT INDUSTRY
Mr. Arthur Schwab, Suite 1127,
3U2 Madison Ave., N. Y. C.
S312
-37-
APPEND1X
EXHIBIT A 1/
COTTON GARMENT EMPLOYMENT, WAGES AND HOURS
July 1929 to April 1935
Alfred Cahen, PH. D.
Statistician, Cotton G-ament Industry
602 principal companies, including 916 plants, reported 154,927 workers for t)
second week in April, with a payroll of $2,107,459 representing approximately
three-fourths of the employment in the Cotton Garment Industry.
1. Employment Index
April 1935
100.0
April 1934
100.2
March 1935
99.2
July 1933
102.2
February 1935
93.5
March 1933
86.7
January 1935
34.0
July 1929
84.8
Chart 1 chows that employment in April 1935 remained almost constant compared
to the preceding month, March 1935, and also compared to the same month one
year ago, April 1934, However, the number of Cotton Garment workers in April
1935 exceeds by 18 per cent the July 1929 employment.
2. Weekly Wages
April 1935
$13.52
April 1934
$12.39
March 1935
13.25
July 1933
9.38
February 1935
12.97
March 1933
8.58
January 1935
11.90
July 1929
13.25
During the past year, Cotton Garment weekly wages rose $1.13 per worker over
April 1934, or an increase of 9.2 per cent compared to a rise of 6.1 per cent
in lining costs \>j the index of the National Industrial Conference Board. Wei
ly wages advanced in all of the 17 product subdivisions during the past year.
The weekly pay check of the worker is 27 cents higher than in July 1929 pro-
viding employee purchasing power due to a fall of 17 per cent in living costs
3. YJeekly Hours
April 1935
32.3
April 1934
33.9
March 1935
31.8
July. 1933
45.6
February 1935
31.1
March 1933
44.4
January 1935
29.6
July 1929
46.7
Despite a 10 per cent legal reduction in hours from April 1934 to April 1935,
average working hours fell only 4.7 per cent. 252 of the 602 large companies
were working longer than 36 hours per week in April 1934 and these concerns
would be most directly affected, in spreading emplo3nnent under the 36-hour wee]
However, Chart 2 shows that their employment increased only 1.8 per cent thou*
their average hours declined 11.8 vev cent.
1/ This Exhibit is presented, as prepared by the Cod.e Authority.
8312
-38-
4. Uorth, South, and Border States
In the past year from April 1934 to April 1935, Chart 3 records a slight in-
crease in employment in the North, a small decline in the border states of
Maryland, District of Columbia, West Virginia, Kentucky, and Southern Missouri,
and a marked decrease in the southern states. Higher wages in the North cor-
respond to increases in employment, and sections of the country where lower
wages were paid one year ago have now lost in employment.
5. Hourly Earnings
April 1935
41.8 cents
April 1934
36.4 cents
March 1935
41.7
July 1933
20.5
February 1935
41.6
March 1933
19.3
January 1935
40.0
July 1929
28.4
Hourljr earnings of labor in the Cotton Garment Industry, excluding Sheep lined
and Leather concerns, remained practically the same as in the preceding month,
hut gained 14.8 per cent over the same month one year ago exceeding the man-
dator;'- 11.1 per cent increase required under the 36-hour week. A very sig-
nificant tendency is shown in Chart 4 that companies paying barely above the
minimum in April 1934 have lost workers, while concerns averaging considerably
above the minimum wage one year ago have now gained in employment . Hourly rate
of pay increased in all of the 17 product groups between April 1934 and April
1935.
6. First Three Months Under the 36-Hour Week
February, March and April 1935 under the 36-hour week compared with identical
months one year ago under the 40-hour week record declines in weekly hours in
all three months considerably less than 10 per cent. Increases in average
hourly earnings in all three months. were greater than 11.1 per cent. No change
in employment were reported in March and April 1935 compared with the same
months one year ago. February 1935 was the only month under the 36-hour week
to record increased employment, namely, 9.5 per cent, over February 1934. This
result is not due to spreading work by shorter hours since average working
hours have declined only 3.7 per cent from February 1934 to February 1935. The
expected rise in retail prices of Cotton Garments due to increased labor costs
from 11.1 per cent advance in wages and increased overhead owing to the 36-
hour week did not occur according to price indexes of the National Industrial
Conference Board, the U. S. Bureau of Agricultural Economics, and the Fair-
child Publications. Cost increases under the 36-hour week were compensated by
decline in price of cotton cloth so that the consumer of Cotton Garments has
not experienced rising prices in the past year. Although the 36-hour week
contemplated no change in weekly wages of workers, nevertheless, the past
3 months have all recorded fair increases above one year ago in the weekly pay
checks of Cotton Garment Employees.
Per Cent
April to April
change s
1934 1935
Weekly Wage
+9.2 per cent
Weekly Hours
-4.7
Hourly Earnings
+14.8
Employment
-0.2
Mar oh to March
1934 1935
4-5.8 per
-7.6
+14.5
+0.2
cent
Feb. to Feb.
1934 1935
-+10. 6 per cent
-3.7
-1-14.8
+9.5
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