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lC>ff?e's  Erpebitions. 


VOLUME  II. 


c^ZJff 


THE  EXPEDITIONS 


ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE, 


To  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  River, 

Through  Louisiana  Territory,  aiui  in  New  Spain, 

During  the  Years  1803-6-y. 


\^^ 


l\ 


A  NEW   EDITION, 


Now  First  Reprinted  in  Full  from  the  Original  ok  1810, 

With  Copious  Critical  Commentary, 

Memoir  of  Pike,  New  Map  and  other  Illustrations, 

AND  Complete   Index, 


ELLIOTT  COUES, 

Late  Ciiptain  and  Assistant  Surgeon,  United  States  A  r/ny^ 

Late  Secretary  and  Naturalist^  United  States  Gfological  Survey ^ 

Member  o/the  National  Academy  oj" Sciences., 

Editor  0/  Lewis  and  Clark^ 

etc.,  etc,t  etc. 


IN  THREE  VOLUMES. 

Vol.  II. 

arftansaw  Sourneg— /IRejican  lEour. 

NEW  YORK: 

FRANCIS   P.   HARPER. 

1895. 


COfVKICHT,    1895, 
BY 

FRANCIS  P,  HARPER. 

New  York. 


Aii  rights  reserved. 


Cheeked 
May  1913 


CONTENTS    OF  VOL.    II. 


PART   II. 

The  Arkansaw  Journey.  ' 

CHAPTER    I.  PACES 

Itinerary:  Up  the  Missouri  and  Osage  Rivers,  and 
THROUGH  Kansas  to  the  Pawnee  Village  on 
the  Republican  River,  July  i5TH-September 
30TH,  1806 357-416 

CHAPTER    H. 

Itinerary,  Continued:  From  the  Pawnee  Village 
THROUGH  Kansas  and  Colorado  to  Pike's  Peak. 
October  ist-November  30TH,  1806,       .       .       .    417-459 

CHAPTER   III. 

Itinerary,  Concluded:  In  the  Mountains  of  Colo- 
rado on  Headwaters  of  the  Arkansaw  and 
Rio  Grande,  December  ist,  iSo6-February  26th, 
1807 460-510 

CHAPTER   IV. 
Pike's  Dissertation  on  Louisiana 5' 1-538 

CHAPTER   V. 
Wilkinson's  Report  on  the  Arkansaw,       .       .       .    539-561 

CHAPTER   VI. 
Correspondence, 562-594 


vi  CONTENTS. 

PART   III. 
The  Mexican  Tour. 

chapter  i.  pages 

Itinerary:  Through  New  Mexico  on  the  Rio 
Grande  to  El  Paso,  February  27th-March 
2IST,  1807, 595-647 

CHAPTER   H. 
Itinerary,    Continued  :    Through    Old    Mexico,    in 
Chihuahua,  Durango,  and  Coahuila,  to  the 
Presidio  Grande,  March  22D-May  31ST,  1807,    .    648-6S9 

CHAPTER   III. 
Itinerary,  Concluded  :  Through  Texas  to  Natchi- 
toches on  the  Red   River  of  Louisiana,  June 
ist-July  1ST,  1807 690-717 

CHAPTER   IV. 
Observations  on  New  Spain 718-806 

CHAPTER   V. 
Correspondence 807-839 

CHAPTER   VI. 

Congressional  Report  and  Accompanying  Docu- 
ments     840-856 


PIKE'S  EXPEDITIONS. 


part  flfl. 

THE  ARK  AN  SAW  JOURNEY. 


CHAPTER   I. 

ITINERARY:  UP  THE  MISSOURI  AND  OSAGE  RIVERS,  AND 
THROUGH  KANSAS  TO  THE  PAWNEE  VILLAGE  ON  THE 
REPUBLICAN   RIVER,   JULY    15TH-SEPT.    30TH,    1806. 

-^UESDAY,  July  15th,  1806.  We  sailed  from  the  land- 
^^  ing  at  Belle  Fontaine'  about  3  o'clock  p.  m.,  in  two 
boats.     Our  party  consisted  of  two  lieutenants,  one  surgeon, 

'  Belle  Fontaine  or  Bellefontaine  is  the  name  of  the  large  cemetery  in  the  en- 
virons of  St.  Louis,  where  William  Clark  lies  buried  ;  and  probably  few  per- 
sons now  living  know  its  proper  geographical  connotation.  The  cemetery  is 
four  miles  from  the  Court  House,  and  ten  miles  further  is  the  place  whose  name 
was  given  to  the  burying-ground  on  the  road  thither,  after  its  original  designa- 
tion as  the  Rural  Cemetery.  Belle  Fontaine  was  a  place  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  river,  14  m.  north  of  St.  Louis,  in  what  is  now  St.  Ferdinand  township  of 
St.  Louis  Co.  (Sect.  lO,  T.  47  N.,  R.  7  E.  of  this  county).  Before  there 
was  any  such  "  place,"  or  locality.  Belle  Fontaine  was  the  French  name  of 
the  creek  which  falls  in  there,  which  had  been  called  Ferdinand  by  the  .Spanish, 
and  which  became  known  to  the  English  as  Cold  Water  creek,  there  being  a 
fine  large  spring  under  the  bluffs,  close  to  the  Missouri.  This,  however,  was 
washed  away  by  the  encroachment  of  the  river.  We  find  the  latter  name  in 
Lewis  and  Clark,  who  made  the  first  camp  of  their  expedition  on  Green  isl. ,  op- 
posite the  mouth  of  the  creek,  May  14th,  1804.  There  was  nothing  then  at  the 
place  that  was  soon  to  become  forever  notable  as  the  spot  where  was  built  the 
first  military  post  ever  established  in  the  newly  acquired  territorj'  of  Louisiana. 
Much  early  history  attaches  to  the  locality,  some  of  which  may  be  here  epito- 
mized, mainly  on  the  b.asis  of  Billon's  Annals.  In  1768,  when  St.  Louis  was  but 
begun,  Captain  Rios  arrived  with  25  soldiers  under  orders  from  Count  UUoa  to 

357 


358       DEPARTURE  FROM  BELLE  FONTAINE. 

one  sergeant,  two  corporals,  i6  privates  and  one  interpreter.' 
We  had  also  under  our  charge  chiefs  of  the  Osage  and  Paw- 
nees, who,  with  a  number  of  women  and  children,  had  been 
to  Washington.  These  Indians  had  been  redeemed  from 
captivity  among  the  Potowatomies,  and  were  now  to  be  re- 
establish Spanish  authority  in  the  region  where  things  were  at  a  standstill,  if  not 
in  distraction.  Rios  was  persona  non  grata  in  the  infant  St.  Louis  ;  he  with- 
drew, and  selected  Belle  Fontaine  as  a  suitable  location  for  a  post.  Late  in  176S 
he  there  built  a  fort  which  he  called  Fort  Prince  Charles  in  honor  of  the  son  of 
his  king  and  heir  apparent  to  the  Spanish  throne.  In  1769  Rios  left  with  his  men; 
in  1770  Piernas  came.  The  Spanish  presidio  was  soon  turned  into  a  commer- 
cial factory  or  trading-post.  On  Sept.  loth,  1797,  Governor  Zenon  Trudeau 
granted  to  He.'.ekiah  Lord  a  concession  of  1,000  arpents  of  land  on  Belle  Fon- 
taine or  Cold  Water  cr. ;  and  on  the  site  of  the  former  Spanish  fort  Lord  built  a 
house  and  mill.  He  died  in  1799;  his  estate  was  sold  in  partition  in  1803, 
when  600  arpents  were  bought  by  William  Massey.  In  1805,  General  James 
Wilkinson  selected  the  place  for  a  military  establishment,  and  United  States 
troops  were  first  cantoned  in  temporary  quarters  during  the  winter  of  1805-6. 
This  w.asthe  original  Cantonment  Belle  Fontaine.  On  April  20th,  1S06,  Gen- 
eral Wilkinson  purchased  from  Massey,  on  behalf  of  the  United  States,  five  acres 
of  ground  with  the  improvements,  called  Belle  Fontaine,  with  the  use  for  five 
years  of  the  ground  on  which  had  been  located  the  cantonment,  and  upon  these 
five  .acres  established  a  permanent  post.  In  July,  1S06,  he  purchased  the  rest 
of  the  tract  of  500  arpents,  which  was  conveyed  to  the  United  States  in  Mar., 
1809.  Belle  Fontaine  was  really  the  parent  of  Jefferson  Barracks  ;  for,  after 
the  establishment  of  Forts  Atkinson,  Snelling,  and  others  on  the  Missouri  and 
Missisdppi  frontiers,  it  lost  its  importance  from  a  milit.iry  point  of  view,  and 
was  abandoned  for  the  site  of  the  present  Jefferson  Barracks.  This  in  1825;  on 
July  4th  of  which  year  Colonel  Talbot  Chambers,  with  four  companies  of  the  ist 
United  States  Infantry,  evacuated  Belle  Fontaine  and  proceeded  to  the  new  site 
which  had  been  selected,  though  the  place  remained  for  some  ten  years  in  charge 
of  a  military  storekeeper.  Major  John  Whistler.  General  Lewis  Cass,  Secretary 
of  War  under  Van  Buren,  ordered  it  to  be  sold  at  public  .auction  in  1836.  It 
was  bouglit  by  Jamison  Samuel,  Dunham  Spalding,  H.  N.  IXavis,  and  E.  L. 
Langham,  who  laid  out  a  paper  town  that  never  came  to  anything.  Agriculture 
finally  recl.aimcd  Belle  Fontaine  after  the  military  occupancy  ;  it  was  bought  for 
a  farm  by  the  late  Dr.  D.avid  C.  Tandy  of  St.  Louis,  whose  son,  Robert  E. 
Tandy,  now  or  lately  did  live  there.  The  old  road  can  still  be  traced  in  part 
over  ground  where  it  ran  more  than  a  century  ago. 

'  The  roster  of  the  party,  with  some  of   the  most  notable  particulars,   is  as 
follows : 

COMMISSIONED    OFFICERS   (2). 

I.  Captain  Zcbulon  M.  Pike.     Escorted  to  Mexico  from  his  post  on  llie   Rio 
Conejos,  with  six   privates,  by  Spanish   dragoons,  Feb.  26th,   1807.     His  men, 


ROSTER   OF  THE   PARTY.  359 

turned  to   their   friends   at   the  Osage  towns.     The  whole 
number  of  Indians  amounted  to  51. 

We  ascended  the  river  about  six  miles,  and  encamped  on 
the  south  side  behind  an  island.     This  day  my  boat  swung 

excepting  one  left  with  Jackson,  were  Brown,  Carter,  Gorden,  Menaugh,  Mount- 
joy,  Roy,  and  Stoute. 

2.  Lieutenant  Tames  B.  Wilkinson.  Detached  to  descend  the  Arkansaw  with 
five  men,  from  camp  near  Great  Bend,  Aug.  28th,  1806. 

NON-COMMISSIONED   OFFICERS  (3). 

1.  Sergeant  Joseph  Ballenger.     Went  with  Wilkinson. 

2.  Sergeant  William  E.  Meek.  Sent  from  Rio  Conejos  to  relief  of  ab.an- 
doned  men,  Feb.  igth,  1807. 

3.  Corporal  Jeremiah  R.  Jackson.  Left  in  ch.arge  of  post  on  Rio  Conejos, 
with  Carter,  Feb.  26th,  1S07,  to  await  return  of  Meek  and  Miller  with 
Vasquez,  Smith,  Sparks,  and  Dougherty. 

PRIVATES  (16). 

1.  John  Boley.     Went  with  Wilkinson,  Aug.  28th,  1806. 

2.  Samuel  Bradley.     Went  with  Wilkinson,  Aug.  2Sth,  1806. 

3.  John  Brown.     Left  with  Jackson  on  Rio  Conejos,  Feb.  26th,  1807. 

4.  Jacob  Carter.     Went  with  Pike,  Feb.  26th,  1807. 

5.  Thomas  Dougherty.  Abandoned  in  Sangre  de  Cristo  mountains  with 
frozen  feet,  Jan.  22d,  1807. 

6.  William  Gorden.     Went  with  Pike,  Feb.  20th,  1807. 

7.  Solomon  Huddleston.     Went  with  Wilkinson,  Aug.  2Sth,  1806. 

8.  Henry  Kennerman.     Deserted  July  19th,  1806. 

9.  Hugh  Menaugh.  Abandoned  in  .Sangre  de  Cristo  mountains,  Jan.  27th, 
1807  ;  recovered  on  Rio  Conejos,  Feb.  i8th,  1807  ;  went  with  Pike,  Feb.  26th, 
1807. 

10.  Theodore  Miller.  Went  with  Meek  to  relief  of  al>andoncd  men,  Feb. 
19th,  1807. 

11.  John  Mountjoy.     Went  with  Pike,  Feb.  2f)lh,  1807. 

12.  Alexander  Roy.     Went  with  Pike,  Feb.  26th,  1807. 

13.  Patrick  Smith.  Left  with  Vasquez  on  the  Arkansaw  at  site  of  present 
Canon  City,  Jan.  14th,  1S07. 

14.  John  Sparks.  Abandoned  in  Sangre  de  Cristo  mountains  with  frozen 
feet,  Jan.  22d,  1807. 

15.  Freegift  Stoute.     Went  with  Pike,  Feb.  26fh,  1807. 

16.  John  Wilson.     Went  with  Wilkinson,  Aug.  28th,  1806. 

CIVILIANS   (2). 

X.  Dr.  John  H.  Robinson,  volunteer  surgeon.  Left  Pike  on  the  Rio  Conejos 
to  proceed  to  Santa  Fe  alone,  Feb.  7th,  1807. 


360  ROSTER   OF   THE   PARTY. 

around  twice  ;  once  when  wc  had  a  tow-rope  on  shore,  which 
it  snapped  off  in  an  instant.  The  Indians  did  not  encamp 
with  us  at  night.     Distance  six  miles.' 

/////  i6th.  We  rejoined  our  red  brethren  at  breakfast, 
after  which  we  again  separated,  and  with  very  severe  labor 
arrived  late  in  the  evening  opposite  the  village  of  St.  Charles,' 
where  the  Indians  joined  us.     Distance  15  miles. 

July  17th.  We  crossed  the  river  to  learn  if  any  communi- 
cations had  arrived  from  St.  Louis,  and  if  there  was  any 
news  of  other  Indian  enemies  of  the  Osages.  Called  at  Mr. 
James  Morrison's,  and  was  introduced  to  Mr.  [George] 
Henry,  of  New  Jersey,  about  28  years  of  age  ;  he  spoke  a 
little  Spanish  and  French  tolerably  well ;  he  wished  to  go 
with  me  as  a  volunteer.  From  this  place  I  wrote  letters 
back  to  I^clle  Fontaine,  whilst  the  Indians  were  crossing  the 

2.   Interpreter  A.  F.  Baronet  Vasquez.     Left  with  .Smith  on  the  Arkansaw, 
at  site  of  present  Canon  City,  Jan.  14th,  1807. 
Of  these  [jersons — 

(1)  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  Sergeant  Ballenger,  and  Privates  Bolcy,  Bradley, 
Ihuklleston,  and  Wilson  descended  the  Arkansaw  and  reached  New  Orleans  in 
February,  1807. 

(2)  Private  Kenncrman  deserted. 

(3)  Dr.  Robinson  left  Captain  Pike  at  the  post  on  Conejos  r.,  and  went  to 
Mexico  on  his  own  account. 

(4)  Captain  Pike,  Sergeant  Meek,  Corporal  Jackson,  Privates  Brown,  Carter, 
Dougherty,  Gorden,  Menaugh,  Miller,  Mountjoy,  Roy,  Smith,  Sparks,  Stoute, 
and  Interpreter  Vasquez  were  escorted  in  separated  parties  to  Mexico  by 
Spanish  dragoons.     Of  whom — 

(5)  Captain  Pike,  Privates  Brown,  Gorden,  Menaugh,  Roy,  .and  Stoute  were 
escorted  back  to  the  United  States,  and  reached  Nachitoches  on  or  about  July 
1st,  1807  ;  while — 

(6)  .Sergeant  Meek,  Coqior.al  Jackson,  Priv.itcs  Carter,  Dougherty,  Miller, 
Mountjoy,  Smith,  and  Sparks,  and  Interpreter  Vasquez,  were  still  detained  in 
Mexico  at  the  time  of  Pike's  return,  and  are  not  accounted  for  in  his  narrative. 

(7)  The  51  Indians,  which  raised  to  74  the  total  of  persons  who  left  Belle 
Fontaine,  were  all  dropped  at  their  respective  destinations,  and  no  others  were 
]>crmanently  attached  to  the  party  which  reached  the  Rocky  mts. 

'  Past  present  Jamestown  Idg.  to  Carbunker's  pt.,  off  which  the  large  Pelican 
isl.  now  separates  Car  of  Commerce  bend  from  Pelican  bend. 

'See  L.  and  C,  cd.  tSi)3,  p.  6,  .and  Pike's  Dissertation,  etc.,  beyond.  The 
village  was  then  the  scat  of  justice  of  the  District  of  St.  Charles,  Louisiana  Ter- 
ritory, as  it  is  now  of  .St.  Charles  Co.,  Mo.     The  W.abash,  St.  L.  and  Pac.  R. 


ARREST  OF   VASQUE7. — GEORGE   HENRY.  361 

river.  A  man  by  the  name  of  Ramsay  reported  to  the  In- 
dians tiiat  500  Sacs,  loways,  and  Reynards  were  at  the 
mouth  of  Big  Manitou  [?'.  e.,  the  band  under  Pashepaho 
(Stabber)  and  Quashquame  (Lance)].  This  gave  them 
considerable  uneasiness,  and  it  took  me  some  time  to  do 
away  the  impression  it  made  upon  them,  for  I  by  no  means 
bcHeved  it.  We  were  about  saiHng  when  my  interpreter 
[Vasquez]  was  arrested  by  the  sheriff  at  the  suit  of  Manuel 
De  Liza  [or  Lisa'],  for  a  debt  between  $300  and  $400,  and 
was  obhged  to  return  to  St.  Louis.  Tliis  made  it  necessary 
for  me  to  write  another  letter  to  the  general."  Wc  en- 
camped about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  above  the  village. 
J2tly  iSth.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robinson  went 
with  [one  soldier  and]  the  Indians  across  the  country  to  the 
village  of  La  Charctte.'  Mr.  George  Henry  engaged,  under 
oath,  to  accompany  me  on  my  tour.  Wrote  to  the  general, 
and  inclosed  him  one  of  Henry's  engagements.'     After  we 

R.  bridged  the  Mo.  r.  here  ;  opposite  is  Bon  Fils  station  ;  also  Brotherton.  .St. 
Charles  was  not  so  called  till  1784  ;  the  place  had  been  known  as  Les  Petites 
Cotes,  where  the  hunter  Blanchette  settled  about  1770;  note  ■",  p,  214.  In  to- 
day's journey  Pike  passed  the  place  known  as  Piper's  (or  Fifer's)  klg. :  see  the  mark 
"  Ferry  "  on  his  map.  The  principal  point  was  the  coal  hill  on  the  south,  then 
known  as  La  Charbonniere,  now  Charbonnier  pt.  A  present  or  recent  place 
of  ferriage  is  Music's  or  Hall's  ;  some  of  the  landings  are  Heagler's,  Kemp's, 
and  Orick's  or  Orrick's  ;  some  of  the  present  islands  above  the  Pelicans  are 
Charbonnier  or  Mullanphy,  Holmes,  and  Vingt-une.  There  was  a  marsh  or  lake 
on  the  N.  side,  5  or  6  m.  below  St.  Charles,  which  the  French  called  Marais 
Croche,  Crooked  marsh  ;  some  maps  now  make  it  Marie  Crochc  1. 

"  M.  de  Lisa  was  one  of  the  most  noted  Missourian  Indian  traders  in  those 
days.  This  is  certainly  not  the  last,  and  probably  not  the  first,  time  he  played 
exactly  that  trick.  Pike  has  a  good  deal  to  say  of  him  further  on  :  see  also  L. 
and  C,  pp.  Ixxix,  62,  242,  256,  443,  1153,  1154,  1232,  where  my  notes  refer  to 
further  information  in  lirackenridge's  Travels  and  Irving's  Astoria.  Lisa  was  at 
one  time  associated  with  Captain  Clark  in  the  fur-trade. 

'  One  of  the  two  letters  Pike  wrote  to  Wilkinson  formed  No.  3  of  the  App. 
to  Pt.  2  of  the  orig.  ed.     See  l)eyond,  where  it  is  given. 

■■See  L.  and  C,  ed.  1S93,  pp.  2,  8,  1182,  1211  ;  also,  p.  1257,  where  Cha- 
rette's  cr.  and  village  are  given,  showing  this  to  be  a  personal  name.  We  come 
to  the  place  presently. 

*This  letter  formed  No.  4  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  2  of  the  orig.  ed.  It  is  given 
beyond. 


362  DESERTION  OF  KENNERMAN. 

had  made  our  little  arrangements  we  marched  by  land  and 
joined  the  boats,  which  had  sailed  early  [in  charge  of  Ser- 
geant Ballenger],  at  twelve  o'clock.  Two  of  the  men  being 
sick,  I  steered  one  boat  and  Mr.  Henry  the  other,  by  which 
means  we  were  enabled  to  keep  employed  our  full  comple- 
ment of  oars,  although  we  put  the  sick  men  on  shore.  En- 
camped on  the  north  side.  About  eleven  at  night  a  tremen- 
dous thunderstorm  arose,  and  it  continued  to  blow  and  rain, 
with  thunder  and  lightning,  until  day.  Distance  15  miles.' 
July  igth.  In  consequence  of  the  rain  we  did  not  put  off 
until  past  nine  o'clock ;  my  sick  men  marched.  I  had 
some  reason  to  suspect  that  one  of  them  [Kennerman'°]  in- 
tended never  joining  us  again.  At  dinner  time  the  sick 
man  of  my  own  boat  came  on  board  ;  I  then  went  on  board 
the  other,  and  we  continued  to  run  races  all  day.  Although 
this  boat  had  hitherto  kept  behind,  yet  I  arrived  at  the  en- 
camping ground  with  her  nearly  half  an  hour  before  the 
other.  The  current  not  generally  so  strong  as  below.  Dis- 
tance 14  miles." 

'This  mileage  would  set  Pike  about  Cottleville  Itlg. ,  on  the  N.,  though  I 
hardly  think  he  got  quite  so  far.  lie  passed  Fee  Fee  and  Crevecceur  creeks  on 
the  S.,  latter  discharging  from  Crivecoeur  1.;  Little  Duckett  and  Big  Duckett 
creeks,  near  together,  on  the  N.;  Catfish  isl.,  behind  which  is  Howard  bend, 
into  which  Bon  Homme  or  Good  Man's  r.  falls,  about  opposite  the  middle  of 
Green's  bottom,  N.,  3^  m.  long,  separated  by  Green's  chute  from  Bon  Homme 
isl.,  next  above  which  comes  Bacon's  or  Post's  isl.,  and  then  Cottleville  Idg.  If 
Pike  reached  this  place,  he  was  44  m.  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  accord- 
ing to  recent  charts. 

'"Late  Sergeant  Henry  Kenncrman,  reduced  to  the  ranks  for  cause  at  Pike's 
stockade  on  the  Upper  Mississippi  r.,  Mar.  Qth,  1806:  see  p.  iSl  and  note'", 
p.  245.  He  was  posted  as  a  deserter  in  various  places,  but  we  are  not  told  he 
was  retaken.  He  drops  out  of  the  story  at  this  point.  With  Kennerman 
deserted,  Vasquez  arrested,  and  Geo.  Henry  engaged,  the  whites  of  the  party  are 
now  23  — 2-|-i=22  ;  V.isquez  rejoins  on  the  21st,  when  the  roster  is  again  23. 

"  Position  uncertain,  especially  as  the  text  of  the  l8th-20th  cannot  be  squared 
with  the  camp-marks  on  Pike's  map.  Going  by  the  text,  which  agrees  with  the 
actual  geography  better  than  the  map  docs,  we  may  set  Pike  in  the  vicinity  of 
St.  Albans.  To  reach  this  point  from  his  last  camp  he  passes  places  on  the  N. 
now  known  as  Cottleville  Idg.,  ILimburg,  and  Dozier's  Idg.  At  the  last  named 
Femme  Osage  r.  falls  into  the  lower  end  of  Dozier's  bend.  The  Missouri  is 
here  1)^-2  m.  broad,  and  mostly  filled   with   Howell's  isl.,  2J^  m.  long,  some 


DUBOIS  OK   WOOD   CREEK.  363 

Sunday,  J2iljf  20th.  Embarked  about  sunrise.  Wishing 
to  ascertain  the  temperature  of  the  water,  I  discovered  my 
large  thermometer  to  be  missing,  which  probably  had  fallen 
into  the  river.  Passed  one  settlement  on  the  north  side, 
and,  after  turning  the  point  to  the  south,  saw  two  more 
houses  on  the  south  side.  We  encamped  [on  the  south]  in 
a  long  reach  which  bore  north  and  west.  The  absentees 
had  not  yet  joined  us.     Distance  15  miles." 

July  2ist.  It  commenced  raining  near  day,  and  continued 
until  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  ;  the  rain  was  immensely 
heavy,  with  thunder  and  lightning  remarkably  severe.  This 
obliged  me  to  lie  by  ;  for,  if  we  proceeded  with  our  boats, 
it  necessarily  exposed  our  baggage  much  more  than  when 
at  rest,  as  the  tarpaulin  could  then  cover  all.  We  set  sail 
at  a  quarter  past  four  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  village  of  La 

small  islands,  and  various  sand-bars.  Thence  on  the  N.  or  rather  N.  W.  is  a 
bottom  8  m.  long  and  a  mile  or  more  deep  ;  while  on  the  S.  E.  is  a  nearly  un- 
broken line  of  bluffs  which  tlie  river  washes  from  Port  Royal  (in  Franklin  Co., 
just  over  the  border  of  St.  Louis  Co. )  to  St.  Albans.  At  one  place  in  these  rocks 
is  the  cave  formerly,  and  perhaps  still,  known  as  the  Tavern  :  see  L.  and  C,  ed. 
1893,  p.  8,  and  Pike's  map,  place  lettered  "Cave."  The  small  stream  which 
makes  in  on  the  S.  W.  at  St.  Albans  is  still  called  Tavern  cr. ;  and  directly 
opposite  is  Murdoch's  Idg.  The  Mo.  R.  Comm.  charts  of  1879  mark  a  place 
Missouriton  on  the  N.  \V.,  2  m.  below  Murdoch's  Idg.  Nicollet's  map,  pub. 
1843,  marks  Missouriton  on  the  N.,  slightly  bilow  mouth  of  Femme  Osage  r., 
about  position  of  present  Hamburg. 

"  The  "  point  to  the  south  "  which  Pike  passes  I  take  to  be  that  opp.  Cottle- 
baum's  Idg.,  at  the  mouth  of  Ridenour  or  Fiddle  cr.,  at  the  head  of  the  difficult 
place  called  Devil's  Race-ground  by  Lewis  and  Clark  :  see  ed.  of  1893,  p.  8. 
This  is  a  couple  of  miles  above  St.  Albans,  at  the  55th  river-mile  point  of  re- 
cent surveys.  The  bluffs  continue  a  mile  or  so,  and  then,  at  the  mouth  of 
Labadie's  cr.  or  slough,  begins  the  extensive  Labadic's  bottom  on  the  S.,  for 
the  Missouri  crosses  over  to  the  bluffs  on  the  N.,  and  continues  on  that  side  to 
the  town  of  Augusta,  St.  Charles  Co.  Thence  the  channel  runs  obliquely  by  the 
Augusta  and  Hinkley  bends,  between  Labadie's  and  Hancock's  bottoms,  to  the  S. 
side  again.  Here,  at  Mung's  or  South  Point  isl.,  is  the  lower  end  of  the  "  long 
reach,"  N.  W.,  in  which  Pike  says  he  camped.  We  set  him  on  the  S.,  at  the 
mouth  of  Dubois  or  Wood  cr. ,  where  there  is  now  a  place  called  South  Point. 
This  is  directly  opposite  the  line  between  St.  Charles  and  Warren  cos.  on  the 
N. ;  it  is  about  2  m.  below  Washington,  Franklin  Co.,  and  at  the  67th  mile- 
point  from  tlie  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  Pike  maps  the  stream  in  the  right  place, 
but  by  the  wrong  name  of  "  Ash  R." 


364  VILLAGE   OF    LA   CIIARETTE. 

Charette  at  a  little  after  the  dusk  of  the  evening.  Here  we 
found  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robinson  with  the 
Indians  ;  also,  Baroncy  [Vasquez  "],  our  interpreter,  with 
letters  from  the  general  and  our  friends.  The  weather  still 
continued  cloudy,  with  rain.  We  were  received  in  the 
house  of  Mr.  Chartron,  and  every  accommodation  in  his 
power  was  offered  us.     Distance  six  miles." 

"The  proper  name  of  tlie  interpreter,  whom  Pike  usually  calls  "  Earoney," 
was  A.  F.  Baronet  Vasquez.  lie  was  b.  St.  Louis,  1783  ;  his  wife  was  Emily 
Faustine  Parent.  He  was  the  son  of  Benito  Vasquez  (b.  1750)  and  Julia  Papin 
(married  Nov.  27th,  1774),  and  was  the  fifth  child  of  12  they  had.  He  appears 
in  army  registers  as  Barony  Vasquez,  appointed  to  be  an  ensign  in  the 
2nd  Infantry  Dec.  12th,  1808;  transferred  to  ist  Infantry  Oct.  31st,  1810; 
commissioned  as  second  lieutenant  Mar.  4th,  181 1  ;  promoted  to  a  first  lieuten- 
ancy July  30th,  1813  ;  and  resigned  Oct.  ist,  1S14.  See  also  a  letter  about 
him  in  my  Memoir  of  Pike,  itnUi. 

"See  note  ■",  p. 361.  La  Charette  is  still  the  name  of  the  stream,  and  of  the 
extensive  bottom  on  the  N.  side  through  whicli  the  river  seeks  the  Missouri. 
But  the  settlement  once  so  called  is  not  to  be  found  by  this  naiue  on  modern  maps. 
Instead  of  this  we  have  Marthasville  (3  m.  N.  of  which  stands  still  the  house  in 
which  Daniel  Boone  died),  a  village  about  a  mile  from  the  Missouri,  and  nearly 
midway  between  the  points  where  La  Charette  cr.  and  Tuque  cr.  respectively  enter 
the  bottom.  Marthasville  appears  on  maps  of  50  years  ago,  as  for  example,  on 
Nicollet's,  1843.  Gass  calls  the  place  St.  Johns  where  he  camped  May  25th, 
1S04  ;  it  then  had  seven  houses :  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  1893,  p.  8.  St.  Johns  is  now 
the  name  of  the  largest  one  of  a  cluster  of  islands  and  sand-bars  in  an  expanded 
part  of  the  Missouri,  between  the  mouth  of  La  Charette  cr.  on  the  N.  and  of 
St.  Johns  or  Bourbeuse  cr.  on  the  S.,  2  m.  and  more  above  the  town  of  Wash- 
ington, Franklin  Co.  Pike  maps  "  S'.  Johns  R."  correctly  between  his  "  Ash 
R."  (error  for  Wood  or  Dubois  cr.)  and  his  "Bay  R."  (error  for  Bceuf  r.). 
Washington  is  the  most  notable  place  Pike  passes  to-day  ;  it  is  now  quite  a 
town,  large  enough  to  have  started  a  place  opposite  itself,  called  North  Wash- 
ington, on  Lac's  pt.  in  Warren  Co.  Here  is  where,  at  the  69th  river-mile  point, 
a  creek  falls  in  on  the  N.;  it  is  commonly  called  Tuque  cr.,  though  Sheet  III. 
of  the  Mo.  R.  Comm.  charts  has  "  Duke  "  as  the  name.  It  looks  like  a  French 
word,  but  whether  it  be  a  personal  name,  or  derived  from  Toque  or  Turque, 
does  not  appear.  It  is  one  of  two  creeks  which  L.  and  C.  speak  of  passing  on 
the  N.,  May  25th  ;  the  other  one  of  these  has  never  been  identified.  But 
there  is  an  old  lake  bed,  or  something  of  the  sort,  a  couple  of  miles  back  of 
North  Washington,  in  Hancock's  bottom,  under  the  bluffs,  and  I  imagine  this 
once  discharged  about  opp.  Dubois  or  Wood  cr. — say  at  Rieskamp's  place,  on 
the  boundary  between  St.  Charles  and  Warren  cos.  Tuque  cr.  itself  seems  to 
have  had  more  than  one  outlet,  in  the  course  of  the  several  miles  it  meanders 
the  low  land  and  separates  Hancock's  bottom  from  La  Charette. 


SHEPHERD,  BERGER,  OR  BURGER'S  CREEK.     365 

July  22d.  We  arranged  our  boats,  dried  our  lading,  and 
wrote  letters  for  Belle  Fontaine. 

July  2jcl.  I  dispatched  an  express  to  the  general,  with 
advertisements  relative  to  Kennerman,  the  soldier  who  had 
deserted."  We  embarked  after  breakfast,  and  made  good 
progress.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  steered  one  boat  and  I 
the  other,  in  order  to  detach  all  the  men  on  shore,  with  the 
Indians,  that  we  could  spare.  We  crossed  to  the  south 
side,  a  little  below  Shepherd  river.  Dr.  Robinson  killed  a 
deer,  which  was  the  first  killed  by  the  party.  Distance  13 
miles.'" 

July  2^tli.  We  embarked  at  half  past  six  o'clock.  Very 
foggy.  The  Indians  accompanied  by  only  three  of  my 
people.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  being  a  little  indisposed,  I 
was  obliged  to  let  Baroney  steer  his  boat.     We  made  an 

"  Originally  Docs.  Nos.  5  and  6,  p.  33  and  p.  36  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  2.  They 
are  given  beyond. 

"To  camp  at  New  Haven,  Franklin  Co.,  a  considerable  town  which  has 
grown  up  of  late  years  at  the  place  formerly  known  as  Miller's  Idg.,  on  the  S., 
a  little  below  Pinckney  pt.  Passing  through  Charette  bend,  beyond  Patten's 
pt.  .ind  Idg.,  Pike  comes  to  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere  au  Bceuf  of  the 
French,  now  Bocuf  or  Buffalo  r.,  which  falls  in  on  the  S.  behind  Bceuf,  Buffalo, 
or  Shelton's  isl. ,  about  a  mile  below  Dundee  station  of  the  Mo.  Pac.  1\.  R. 
This  is  the  stream  by  error  lettered  "  Bay  R."  on  Pike's  map.  On  rounding 
Emily  and  Miller  bends.  Pike  comes  to  his  camp,  say  at  the  85tli  river-mile 
point  of  late  surveys.  Here  he  is  i  J^  m.  below  a  place  which  was  charted  by 
Nicollet  in  1843  as  Griswold,  and  which  may  be  found  on  maps  of  but  few  years 
ago,  but  has  since  disappeared.  On  the  N.,  opp.  Griswold,  was  a  place  called 
Pinckney  or  Pinckneyville,  seat  of  Warren  Co.  about  1825,  and  there  is  still  a 
hamlet  of  the  same  name  in  the  vicinity.  The  Shepherd  r.  which  the  above 
text  mentions  falls  in  about  a  mile  above  Griswold  and  the  same  below  the 
present  R.  R.  station  Etlah.  This  is  Shepherd's  cr.  of  L.  and  C.,ed.  1893,  p.  9, 
but  is  oftener  now  called  Berger  r.  or  cr.  I  am  told  by  R.  J.  Holcombe  that 
the  word  is  not  the  common  F.  noun  beri;er,  a  shepherd,  but  a  personal  name, 
probably  of  the  old  German  pioneer  Caspar  Burger,  a  founder  of  the  colony 
there  ;  if  so,  it  should  not  have  been  translated  into  English.  The  word  is  mangled 
into  "  Boeger  "on  the  beautiful  chart  of  the  Mo.  R.  Comm.  It  is  a  pity  that  so 
many  cases  as  bad  as  this  one  mar  the  lettering  of  such  fine  draughtsman's  work 
as  Mr.  D.W.  Wellman's.  Berger's  or  Burger's  cr.  comes  into  the  bottom  2  m. 
above  its  mouth,  and  is  there  joined  by  Little  Berger's  or  Burger's  or.,  which  runs 
about  4j^  m.  in  the  bottom  before  its  confluence  ;  the  two  thus  make  what  is 
known  as  Berger's  (/.  £■. ,  Burger's)  bottom  nearly  an  island,  6  or  7  ni.  long. 


366  POINTS  ABOUT  OTTER  ISLAND. 

excellent  day's  journey,  and  encamped  [on  the  south]  five 
miles  from  [below]  the  Gasconade  river.  Killed  three  deer, 
one  bear,  and  three  turkeys.  But  three  or  four  of  the  In- 
dians arrived  ;  the  others  encamped  a  small  distance  below. 
Distance  i8  miles." 

July  25th.  We  embarked  at  half  past  six  o'clock,  and  ar- 
rived at  the  entrance  of  the  Gasconade  river  at  half  past 
eight  o'clock,  at  which  place  I  determined  to  remain  the  day, 
as  my  Indians  and  foot  people  were  yet  in  the  rear,  and  they 

"  On  rounding  Pinckney  pt.  through  the  bend  of  that  name,  Pike  passes  the 
moutliof  Bcrger's  cr.,  opp.  Yeagcr's  Idg.,  crosses  to  the  N.  side  of  the  Missouri, 
and  sails  along  with  Berger's  bottom  on  his  left  for  several  miles  ;  he  goes  by 
Whitehouse's  isl.,  near  which  L.  and  C.  were  camped  May  26th,  1S04,  and 
on  finishing  with  Berger  bottom,  reaches  a  place  on  the  N.  called  Bridgeport. 
This  is  pretty  old  for  a  Missouri  Kiver  town  ;  we  find  it  located  more  than  50 
years  ago,  and  it  still  exists  in  name,  but  has  never  amounted  to  much. 
Opp.  Bridgeport  is  Bates'  isl.,  2  m.  long,  the  largest  one  of  several  at  the  head 
of  Berger's  bottom.  In  the  vicinity  of  Bridgeport  several  small  creeks  fall  in  on 
the  N.  Three  of  these  are  called  Lost  cr.,  Massas  (qu.  Massey's?)cr.,  and  Mal- 
hern  (qu.  Malheur  ?)  cr.  E.\cepting  Lost  cr.,  these  fall  into  Chenal  a  Loutre  or 
Otter  slough  ;  and  this  snicarty  cuts  off  a  very  large  piece  of  bottom  known  as 
lie  a  Loutre  or  Otter  isl.  L.  and  C.  speak  of  this  as  nearly  10  m.  long,  and  say 
tliat  it  was  one  of  the  most  fertile  in  the  whole  river.  The  details  of  the  river 
bottom  along  here  seem  to  have  altered  a  good  deal  since  1S04,  and  even  since 
Long's  time  ;  the  upper  end  of  the  slough  is  now  a  little  above  Hermann,  near 
McGirk's  isl.  and  Idg.,  cutting  the  island  down  to  a  total  length  of  not  over  7  m. 
The  slough  itself  is  very  narrow,  and  hardly  more  than  a  sluggish  creek,  like  a 
good  many  others  that  meander  bottoms  before  they  discharge.  L.  and  C. 
speak  of  three  creeks  which  fall  in  behind  Otter  isl.,  and  one  of  these  as  having 
the  same  name.  This  is  Riviere  a  la  Loutre  of  early  F.  settlers,  now  Loutre, 
Louter,  or  Luter  r.,  and  Otter  r.,  very  curiously  lettered  on  the  Mo.  R.  Comm. 
map,  as  "  L'Outrc  " — a  form  which  only  needs  an  accent  to  be  decidedly  outij. 
Pike  maps  the  stream  as  "  Otter  Riv."  He  proceeds  by  Otter  or  Loutre  Island 
bend  to  a  mile  or  so  above  Hermann,  and  camps  on  the  S.  In  finishing  the 
bend  just  named  he  passes  on  the  S.  the  county  line  between  Franklin  and 
Gasconade,  which  cuts  through  Bates'  isl.,  and  then  on  the  N.  the  line  be- 
tween Warren  and  Montgomery  cos.,  which  cuts  the  upper  part  of  Otter  isl.  at 
the  lower  point  of  Hermann  isl.,  opp.  the  town  of  this  name.  This  is  now 
quite  a  place,  and  more  than  50  years  old.  It  is  situated  across  the  mouth  of 
Riviere  aux  Freues  of  the  F.,  commonly  called  Frene  cr.  and  Ash  cr. ,  but  un- 
commonly appearing  as  "  Frame  "  cr.  on  the  Mo.  R.  Comm.  map.  Pike  does 
not  map  Ash  cr.,  though  it  is  given  under  this  name  by  L.  and  C:  for  the 
stream  he  marks  "Ash  R."  by  mistake,  see  note  '-,  p.  363. 


GASCONADE   RIVER.  367 

had  complained  to  me  of  being  without  shoes,  leggings,  etc. 
Distance  five  miles.'" 

One  of  our  Pawnees  did  not  arrive  until  late  ;  the  other 
had  communicated  his  suspicions  to  me  that  the  Oto,  who 
was  in  company,  had  killed  him  :  he  acknowledged  that  he 
proposed  to  him  to  take  out  their  baggage  and  return  to 
St.  Louis.  The  real  occasion  of  his  absence,  however,  was 
his  having  followed  a  large  fresh  trace  up  the  Gasconade  a 
considerable  distance;  but  finding  it  led  from  the  Missouri, 
he  examined  it  and  discovered  horses  to  have  been  on  it ;  he 
then  left  it,  joined  ours,  and  came  in.  This  being  generally 
the  route  taken  by  the  Potowatamies,  when  they  go  to  war 
against  the  Osage,  it  occasioned  some  alarm.  Every  morn- 
ing we  were  awakened  by  the  mourning  of  the  savages,  who 

Loutre  isl.  is  quite  historic.  A  number  of  Americans  and  some  French 
families  settled  there  in  1805  ;  first  child  born  was  Jacob  Grosjean  (name  cor- 
rupted to  Grosliong)  ;  one  b.  i8o6  became  the  local  celebrity  known  as  "old 
man  Patton,"  living  in  1S84.  Fort  Clemson  was  built  by  Capt.  Clemson  about 
1808,  and  maintained  till  after  the  war  of  1812-15.  From  1808  to  1816 
there  was  quite  a  colony,  whence  were  drawn  the  settlers  for  Boone's  Lick, 
Howard  Co.  On  the  N.  mainland  the  colonists,  when  the  war  broke  out,  were 
killed  in  part,  and  the  rest  driven  to  the  island  to  be  "  forted  up  "  till  the  peace. 
Fort  Clemson  was  a  Rangers'  hdqrs.  in  the  war,  and  from  this  post  Capt.  James 
Callaway,  grandson  of  Daniel  Boone,  set  out  in  March,  1815,  on  the  expedition 
up  Loutre  r.,  during  which  he  and  others  were  killed.  Daniel  Boone's  .Spanish 
grant  from  Gov.  Delassus  was  about  15  m.  up  the  Loutre,  and  included  a  salt 
spring — the  original  and  only  genuine  "Boone's  Lick";  Boone's  adopted  son 
Van  Bibber  kept  a  t.ivern  there,  where  Washington  Irving  stopped  some  time  in 
the  '30's  ;  it  is  now  reputed  a  medicinal  spring  in  the  little  village  Mineola,  near 
Danville,  seat  of  Montgomery  Co. 

"Passing  McGirk's  Idg.  and  isl.  N.,  Cole's  or  Coles'  cr.,  S.,  Rineland  and 
Kallmeyer's  Idgs.,  S.,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gasconade,  which  falls  in  on  the  S., 
opp.  Cuyler's  pt.,  107^^  m.  up  the  Missouri  :  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  1893,  p.  9. 
This  is  much  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Missouri  thus  far  reached  ;  Pike  else- 
where allows  it  200  yards'  width  at  the  mouth,  and  navigability  at  times  of  100 
m.  He  also  notes  that  the  Sac  boundary  started  opp.  its  mouth  ;  see  note  ", 
p.  II.  Gasconade  City  is  a  place  on  the  tongue  of  land  that  makes  into  the 
Missouri  on  the  upper  side  of  the  Gasconade  ;  being  a  mere  village  or  hamlet, 
is  as  appropriately  named  as  the  river  itself,  which  got  its  name  from  the 
way  some  persons  bragged  about  their  exploits  when  they  returned  to  St.  Louis. 
Beck's  Gaz.  speaks  of  pine  which  was  cut  and  rafted  down,  but  there  has  been 
none  for  60  years  within  150  mlies. 


368  MONTBRUN'S  TAVERN  AND   VICINITY. 

commenced  crying  about  daylight,  and  continued  for  the 
space  of  an  hour.  1  made  inquiry  of  my  interpreter  with 
respect  to  this,  who  informed  me  that  this  was  a  custom  not 
only  with  those  wlio  liad  recently  lost  their  relatives,  but  also 
with  others  who  reccjled  to  mind  the  loss  of  some  friend, 
dead  long  since,  and  joined  the  other  mourners  purely  from 
sympathy.  They  appeared  extremely  affected;  tears  ran 
down  their  cheeks,  and  they  sobbed  bitterly;  but  in  a 
moment  they  dry  their  cheeks  and  cease  their  cries.  Their 
songs  of  grief  genercdiy  run  thus  :  "  My  dear  father  exists 
no  longer;  have  pity  on  me,  O  Great  Spirit !  you  see  I  cry 
forever  ;  dry  my  tears  and  give  me  comfort."  The  warriors' 
songs  are  thus :  "  Our  enemies  have  slain  my  father  (or 
mother)  ;  he  is  lost  to  me  and  his  family;  I  pray  to  you,  O 
Master  of  Life !  to  preserve  me  until  I  avenge  his  death, 
and  then  do  with  me  as  thou  pleaseth." 

July  26th.  We  commenced  at  five  o'clock  to  ferry  the 
Indians  over  the  Gasconade,  and  left  the  entrance  of  this 
river  at  half  past  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  Met  five 
Frenchmen,  who  informed  us  that  they  had  just  left  the 
Osage  river,  and  that  it  was  so  low  they  could  not  ascend  it 
with  their  canoe.  We  wrote  letters  and  sent  them  back  by 
them.""  Dr.  Robinson,  Baroney,  Sparks,  and  all  the  Indians 
encamped  about  one  league  above  us.  Killed  one  bear,  two 
deer,  one  otter,  three  turkeys,  and  one  raccoon.  Distance 
15  miles." 

"One  of  these  letters,  given  beyond,  formed  No.  7,  p.  36,  of  the  App.  to 
Pt.  2.  of  the  orig.  ed. 

'"'  I^ike's  map  marks  no  camp  for  the  26th.  The  dist.mce  between  Gasconade 
and  Osage  rivers  is  exactly  30  m.  by  the  channel.  Pike  says  he  goes  15  m. 
to-day  ;  I  doubt  that  he  went  so  far  if  he  did  not  leave  the  Gasconade  till  6.30 
p.  m.  But  to  take  the  record  on  its  face  would  be  to  set  him  a  mile  above 
Kisher's  Idg.,  on  the  S.,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  hamlet  called  Chamois,  in  Os-age 
Co.  On  decamping  and  ferrying  over  the  Gasconade,  Pike  first  passed  the 
mouth  of  Bailey's  cr.  (Deer  cr.  of  L.  and  C),  on  the  S.,  whence  the  channel  took 
him  obliquely  to  BUifTton  on  the  N.,  5  m.  above  the  Gasconade.  The  bluffs 
border  the  river  for  about  4  m.  along  here,  and  at  one  place  in  them  is  tlie  cave 
which  used  to  be  known  as  Montbrun's  Tavern  :  see  L.  and  C,  /.  c.  At  I  or 
lyi  ro.  above  BhilTton  the  line  between    Montgomery  and  Callaway  cos.  comes 


COTE   SANS  DESSEIN.  369 

Sunday,  July  zyth.  We  embarked  at  half  past  five  o'clock, 
and  arrived  at  the  Indians'  camp  at  seven  o'clock.  They 
had  been  alarmed  the  day  before,  and  in  the  evening  sent 
men  back  in  the  trace,  and  some  of  the  chiefs  sat  up  all 
night.  Breakfasted  with  them.  About  half  past  three 
o'clock  encamped  in  sight  of  the  Osage  river.  There  being 
every  appearance  of  rain,  we  halted  thus  early  in  order  to 
give  the  Indians  time  to  prepare  temporary  camps,  and  to 
secure  our  baggage.  I  went  out  to  hunt,  and  firing  at  a 
deer,  near  two  of  the  Indians  who  were  in  the  woods,  they 
knew  the  difference  of  the  report  of  my  rifle  from  their  guns, 
were  alarmed,  and  immediately  retired  to  camp.  Distance 
13  miles."" 

to  the  Missouri  just  about  opp.  tlie  line  between  Gasconade  and  Osage  cos.  on 
the  S. ;  this  last  strikes  the  river-bottom  just  where  Bailey's  cr.  also  does.  At 
5  m.  above  Bluffton  is  Portland,  Callaway  Co. ,  before  reaching  which  Pike 
passes  Little  Tavern  and  Big  Tavern  creeks,  which  are  a  mile  apart,  on  the  N., 
and  both  opp.  Portland  isl. ,  2  m.  long  ;  while  a  mile  above  Portland  is  the  mouth 
of  Logan  cr.  On  the  S.  along  here  is  a  creek  whose  mysteries  I  have  never 
been  able  to  fathom.  This  is  Rush  cr.  of  L.  and  C,  /.  c,  given  by  them  as 
4  m.  above  Montbrun's  Tavern,  on  the  S.  It  is  called  Greassy  cr.  by  the  Mo. 
R.  Comm.,  and  Greasy  cr.  by  the  U.  S.  G.  S.  ;  the  latter  name  is  probably  cor- 
rect. It  comes  into  the  bottom  in  the  vicinity  of  Chamois,  about  the  121st  river- 
mile  point,  meanders  down  for  several  miles,  and  finally  discharges  behind 
Portland  isl.,  somewhere  between  the  117th  and  115th  m.  of  the  Mo.  R.  Comm. 
'"  To  an  interesting  locality — that  of  the  old  French  village,  Cote  sans  Dessein. 
so  called  from  the  celebrated  long  narrow  ledge  of  rocks  of  the  same  name 
immediately  above,  isolated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  river  opposite  Dodd's  isl. 
In  approaching  the  Osage,  Pike  maps  two  streams  from  the  N.,  respect- 
ively lettered  "  Gr.  R.  au  vase  "  and  "  L.  R.  au  vase."  The  first  of  these 
is  Grande  Riviere  au  Vase  or  Grande  Riviere  Vaseuse  of  the  F.,  which  appears 
on  the  best  modern  maps  as  Au  Vasse  and  Au.wasse  r. — better  talk  English 
than  such  Missouri  French  as  this,  and  say  Big  Muddy  r. ,  as  L.  and  C.  did  ! 
This  considerable  stream  falls  in  a  mile  above  Harrison's  Idg.,  about  123 J^  m. 
by  the  channel  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  The  other  is  Little  Muddy  r. 
of  L.  and  C,  who  translated  Petite  Riviere  au  Vase  (or  Petite  Riviere  Vaseuse) 
better  than  those  do  who  now  style  it  .\u  Vasse  cr.  or  Auxvasse  cr.  This  creek 
joins  in  the  bottom-land  another  now  called  Middle  r.  or  cr. ,  and  the  two  fall  in 
together  a  mile  above  the  village  of  St.  Aubert,  Callaway  Co.  Moreover;  be- 
tween the  Big  and  the  Little  Muddy  there  is  a  third  creek,  distinct  from  both 
the  others,  falling  in  i  J^  m.  below  St.  Aubert.  This  is  simply  called  Muddy  cr. 
on  the  Mo.  R.  Comm.  map  ;  on  that  of  the  U.  S.  G.  S.  it  is  lettered  Ewing's  cr. 


370  THE   START   UP  OSAGE   RIVER. 

July  2StIi.  Embarked  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  and  at 
half  past  ten  arrived  at  the  Osage"  river,  where  we  stopped, 
discharged  our  guns,  bathed,  etc.  We  then  proceeded  on 
about  six  miles,  where  we  waited  for  and  crossed  the  Indians 
to  the  west  shore;  we  then  proceeded  on  to  the  first  island, 
and  encamped  on  the  west  side.  Sans  Oreille  and  only  four 
or  five  young  men  coming  up,  the  rest  encamping  some  dis- 
tance behind.  Killed  one  deer  and  one  turkey.  Distance  19 
miles. 

July  2gth.  All  the  [rest  of  the]  Indians  arrived  very  early. 
Big  Soldier,  whom  I  had  appointed  the  officer  to  regulate 
the  march,  was  much  displeased  that  Sans  Oreille  and  the 
others  had  left  him,  and  said  for  that  reason  he  would  not 
suffer  any  woman  to  go  in  the  boat  and  by  that  means 
separate  the  party ;  but  in  truth  it  was  from  jealousy  of  the 

A  branch  of  this  is  lettered  by  the  U.  S.  G.  S.  East  Wing  or. — a  name  which  I 
suspect  originated  in  mistaking  "Ewing"  for  "  E.  Wing."  On  the  S.  side 
of  the  Missouri  I'ike  passes  two  small  streams,  both  historically  notable.  The 
first  of  these  is  the  one  which  L.  and  C.  called  Grindstone  cr. ,  when  they 
camped  at  its  mouth  May  30th,  1804  ;  but  it  is  now  known  as  Deer  cr.  It  falls 
in  behind  St.  Aubert's  isl.,  a  mile  below  St.  Aubert  station  on  the  Mo.  Pac.  R.  R., 
or  the  village  now  called  Mcdora,  126%  m.  up  the  Mo.  r.  One  Carr  has  or  had 
his  home  at  the  mouth  of  this  creek.  The  other  creek  is  4^  m.  above  Grind- 
stone or  Deercr.,  and  i}{  m.  above  Shipley's  Idg. ;  it  is  the  one  L.  and  C. 
called  Bear  cr.,May  31st,  1804  ;  Pike  charted  it  "  BearR.,"  and  it  is  now  called 
Bear  or  Loose  cr.  I  suppose  "  Loose  "  cr.  to  be  a  loose  translation  of  F.  R.  a 
rOurs  or  4  I'Ourse,  according  to  whether  it  was  a  he-bear  or  a  she-bear  which 
the  Frenchman  who  first  named  the  creek  killed  there.  In  any  event  this  stream 
has  given  name  to  the  village  of  Loose  Creek  and  to  Bear  Creek  isl.,  opposite 
its  mouth.  Four  miles  higher  on  the  S.,  opposite  the  foot  of  Dodd's  isl.,  is  the 
village  of  Dauphine  at  the  ])lace  where  one  Benet,  Bcnite,  Benoit,  Bennet,  Bon- 
net, Bonnot,  or  Bcnnight  built  his  mill,  15-20  years  ago.  Dauphine  is  almost 
ex-ictly  opposite  the  site  of  the  old  French  vill.ige  above  named,  which  started 
about  iSo3  and  h.ad  a  dozen  or  more  families  in  181 1.  There  is  a  sort  of  settle- 
ment in  this  vicinity  immediately  .it  the  lower  end  of  the  Cote  sans  Dessein,  at 
one  time  known  as  Bennet's  Ulg. ;  people  named  Gray,  Crews,  and  Maddox  live 
or  lived  there.  Behind  the  Cote  are  some  small  lakes  or  ponds  discharging  by 
R.  aux  Riveaux  or  Riveaux  cr.  (.as  it  is  called)  around  the  upper  end  of  the  Cote, 
near  Dearing's  Idg.  Hence  it  is  only  i^  m.  diagonally  across  the  Missouri  to 
Glenn's  Idg.  at  the  mouth  of  the  Osage  r.     Sec  L.  and  C,  cd.  1893,  p.  11. 

"  Arising  in  the  Ozark  mts.  of  Kansas,  the  Osage  r.  leaves  that  -State  and 
enters  Missouri  in  Vernon  Co.,  which   it  delimits  in   jiart  from   Bates  Co.;  tra- 


OSAGE   JEALOUSY.  371 

men  whose  women  went  in  the  boats.  He  began  by  flog- 
ging one  of  the  young  men  and  was  about  to  strike  Sans 
Oreille's  wife,  but  was  stopped  by  him  and  told  that  he 
knew  he  had  done  wrong,  but  that  the  women  were  inno- 
cent. We  then  crossed  them  and  embarked  at  half  past 
eight  o'clock.  About  twelve  o'clock  we  found  the  Indians 
rafting  the  river,  when  the  first  chief  of  the  Little  Osage, 
called  Tuttasuggy,  or  Wind,  told  me  that  the  man  whom 
Big  Soldier  struck  had  not  yet  arrived  wi'th  his  wife,  "  but 
that  he  would  throw  them  away."  As  I  knew  he  was 
extremely  mortified  at  the  dissensions  which  appeared  to 
reign  amongst  them,  I  told  him  by  no  means  [to  do  so] ; 
that  one  of  my  boats  should  wait  for  the  woman  and  her 
child,  but  that  the  man  might  go  to  the  devil,  as  a  punish- 
ment for  his  insubordination. 

I  then  left  Baroney  with  one  boat,  and  proceeded  with 
the  other.  We  were  called  ashore  by  three  young  Indians, 
who  had  killed  some  deer;  and,  on  putting  them  on  board, 
gave  them  about  one  or  two  gills  of  whisky,  which  intoxi- 
cated all  of  them.  It  commenced  raining  about  one  o'clock, 
and  continued  incessantly  for  three  hours,  which  obliged  us 
to  stop  and  encamp.  One  of  our  men.  Miller,  lost  himself, 
and  did  not  arrive  until  after  dark.  Killed  five  deer,  one 
turkey,  and  one  raccoon.     Distance  14  miles." 

verses  St.  Clair  and  continues  past  the  corner  where  this,  Henry,  and  Benton 
COS.  adjoin  ;  traverses  Benton,  enters  Morg.in,  forms  a  part  of  the  boundary 
between  this  and  Camden,  makes  a  loop  through  the  latter  and  again  separates 
it  for  a  short  space  from  Morgan,  then  for  a  little  distance  separates  Camden 
from  Miller,  traverses  the  latter,  enters  Cole,  and  finally  runs  to  the  Mo.  r. 
between  tliis  last  and  Osage  cos.  We  .shall  learn  much  more  of  this  stream  as 
wc  follow  it  up  in  Pike's  w.ike.  There  is  a  village  called  Osage  City  at  its 
mouth  on  the  west  bank  ;  Pike's  camp  is  also  on  this  side,  in  Cole  Co. ,  past  two 
small  tributaries  known  as  Caddy  and  .Sandford's  creeks,  and  not  far  above 
Maries  r.,  which  comes  from  Pulaski  through  Maries  (named  for  two  French 
girls)  and  Osage  cos.  to  fall  in  on  the  E.  or  right  (left  hand)  bank.  A  .Spanish 
fort  (trading-house)  was  built  about  1795  near  the  mouth  of  the  Osage. 

''  No  further  indication  of  camp  of  29th,  which  is  also  omitted  by  the  draughts- 
man or  engraver  from  Pike's  map  ;  nor  is  there  any  notable  modern  locality 
along  here.     But  it  must  be  short  of  where  the  Osage,  after  coursing  in  Cole 


372  OSAGE   TAVERNS   AND   TAVERN   CREEKS. 

July  jot h.  After  the  fog  dispersed  I  left  Lieutenant  Wil- 
kinson with  the  party  to  dry  the  baggage,  and  went  with 
Dr.  Robinson  and  Bradley.  About  two  o'clock  we  returned, 
set  sail,  and  having  passed  the  first  rapid  about  three  miles, 
encamped  on  the  eastern  shore.  Killed  three  deer.  Dis- 
tance five  miles." 

July  J  1st.  We  embarked  early,  and  passed  several  rapids 
pretty  well.  Dined  with  the  Indians.  Two  of  them  left  us 
in  the  morning  for  the  village,  and  they  all  had  an  idea  of 
doing  the  same,  but  finally  concluded  otherwise.  One  of  the 
Osages,  who  had  left  the  party  for  the  village,  returned  and 
reported  that  he  had  seen  and  heard  strange  Indians  in  the 
woods.  This  we  considered  as  merely  a  pretext  to  come 
back.  I  this  day  lost  my  dog,  and  the  misfortune  was  the 
greater,  as  we  had  no  other  dog  which  would  bring  anything 
out  of  the  water.  This  was  the  dog  Fisher  had  presented 
to  me  at  Prairie  des  Chiens.  Killed  three  deer  and  one 
turkey.     Distance  i8  miles." 

Aug.  1st.  It  having  rained  all  night,  the  river  appeared 
to  have  risen  about  six  inches.  We  spread  out  our  baggage 
to  dry,  but  it  continuing  to  rain  at  intervals  all  day,  the 
things  were  wetter  at  sundown  than  in  the  morning.  We 
rolled  them  up  and  left  them  on  the  beach.     We  sent  out 

Co.,  begins  to  separate  the  latter  from  Osage  Co.  Nearest  present  settlements, 
Babbtown,  Osage  Co.,  and  St.  Thomas,  Cole  Co. 

"  In  Cole  Co.,  and  a  mile  or  two  above  Proft's  cr. ;  .nbout  2  m.  N.  E,  of  St. 
Thomas,  and  4  m.  S.  E.  of  Osage  Bluff. 

"^  Camp  a  little  above  Big  Tavern  cr.,  from  the  E.,  in  Miller  Co.,  on  whichever 
side  of  the  river  it  was  pitched.  There  is  no  mark  on  Tike's  map  for  this  camp,  nor 
those  of  Aug.  2d  and  3d.  The  nearest  named  places  to  the  camp  of  July  31st 
and  Aug.  1st,  and  that  of  Aug,  2d  (only  2  m.  further),  are  St.  Elizabeth,  on 
Big  Tavern  cr.,  and  Mary's  Home,  west  of  the  Os.ige — both  in  Miller  Co.,  but 
both  some  miles  away  from  the  river.  On  breaking  camp  this  morning,  Pike 
passed  on  his  right  the  bluffs  from  which  the  hamlet  of  Osage  Bluff  takes  its 
name  ;  this  is  about  a  mile  north  of  the  river.  He  later  passed  Babruly  cr., 
from  the  W. ,  whose  name  is  obviously  a  corruption  of  Bois  Brfde  ;  then  Sugar 
cr.,  from  the  E.,  and  next  Little  Tavern  cr.,  falling  in  from  the  W.  a  mile  or 
two  below  Big  Tavern  cr.  There  was  more  than  one  cave  or  "tavern"  in  the 
bluff  near  the  creek:  see  figure  of  one,  where  the  early  Osage  boatmen  used  to 
put  up.  in  the  Mo.  Gcol.  Reports. 


VARIOUS  CREEKS— TUSCUMEIA—BROCKMAN.  373 

two  hunters  in  the  morning,  one  of  whom  killed  three  deer; 
all  the  Indians  killed  three  more. 

Aug.  2d.  The  weather  cleared  up.  The  lading  being 
spread  out  to  dry,  Dr.  Robinson,  myself,  Bradley,  Sparks, 
and  Brown  went  out  to  hunt.  We  killed  four  deer,  the  In- 
dians two.  Having  reloaded  the  boats,  we  embarked  at  five 
o'clock,  and  came  about  two  miles.  The  river  rose,  in  the 
last  24  hours,  four  inches. 

Sunday,  Aug.  jd.  Embarked  early,  and  wishing  to  save 
the  fresh  [take  advantage  of  the  rise  in  the  river],  I  pushed 
hard  all  day.  Sparks  was  lost,  and  did  not  arrive  until  night. 
We  encamped  about  25  paces  from  the  river,  on  a  sand-bar. 
Near  day  I  heard  the  sentry  observe  that  the  boats  had  bet- 
ter be  brought  in  ;  I  got  up  and  found  the  water  within  a 
rod  of  our  tent,  and  before  we  could  get  all  our  things  out  it 
had  reached  the  tent.  Killed  nine  deer,  one  wildcat,  one 
goose,  and  one  turkey.     Distance  18  miles.'" 

Aug.  pJi.  We  embarked  early  and  continued  on  for  some 
time,  not  being  able  to  find  a  suitable  place  to  dry  our 
things,  but  at  length  stopped  on  the  east  shore.  Here  we 
had  to  ferry  the  Indians  over  a  small  channel  which  we  did 
not  before  observe;  all  of  them,  however,  not  arriving,  we 
put  off  and  continued  our  route.  Finding  our  progress 
much  impeded  by  our  mast,  I  unshipped  it  and  stripped  it 
of  its  iron,  and,  after  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  had  carved  our 
names  on  it,  set  it  adrift,  followed  by  the  yards.  This  mast 
had  been  cut  and  made  at  [our  wintering  post  on]  Pine 
creek,  Upper  Mississippi.  After  proceeding  some  miles,  we 
found  the  Indians  on  the  west  shore,  they  having  rafted  the 
river.  We  stopped  for  them  to  cook,  after  which  we  pro- 
ceeded. The  navigation  had  become  very  difficult  from  the 
rapidity  of  the  current,  occasioned  by  the  rise  of  the  water, 

''  Passing  Cub  cr.,  right  ;  Humphrey's  and  Panther  creeks,  left ;  then  the  pres- 
ent Saline  or.,  on  the  right.  This  is  laid  down  and  lettered  "Saline  R."  on 
Pike's  map  ;  but  observe  that  it  is  not  the  Saline  r.  of  Aug.  7th  :  see  that  date. 
Above  .Saline  cr.  Pike  passes  Dog  cr.,  left,  and  then  present  site  of  Tuscumbia, 
scat  of  Miller  Co.,  on  the  ri!j;ht ;  and  camps  at  or  near  present  site  of  Brockman, 
on  the  right,  a  mile  alinve  Hear  cr, ,  in  the  same  county. 


374  BAGNELL — SEVERAL   GRAVEL   CREEKS. 

which  rose  one  foot  in  an  hour.  Killed  two  deer.  Rainy. 
Distance  lo  miles."' 

Aug.  ^tli.  We  lay  by  this  day,  in  order  to  give  the  Indi- 
ans an  opportunity  to  dry  their  baggage.  Dr.  Robinson  and 
myself,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Henry,  went  out  to  hunt ;  we 
lost  the  latter  about  two  miles  from  camp.  After  hunting 
some  time  on  the  west  shore,  we  concluded  to  raft  the  river, 
which  we  effected  with  difficulty  and  danger,  and  hunted  for 
some  time,  but  without  success.  We  then  returned  to  the 
party  and  found  that  Mr.  Henry,  who  had  been  lost,  had 
arrived  one  hour  before  us;  he  had  met  one  of  the  soldiers, 
who  brought  him  in. 

To-day  in  our  tour  I  passed  over  a  remarkably  large  rat- 
tlesnake, as  he  lay  curled  up,  and  trod  so  near  him  as  to 
touch  him  with  my  foot,  he  drawing  himself  up  to  make 
room  for  my  heel.  Dr.  Robinson,  who  followed  me,  was  on 
the  point  of  treading  on  him,  but  by  a  spring  avoided  it.  I 
then  turned  round  and  touched  him  with  my  ramrod,  but  he 
showed  no  disposition  to  bite,  and  appeared  quite  peace- 
able. The  gratitude  which  I  felt  toward  him  for  not  hav- 
ing bitten  me  induced  me  to  save  his  life.  Killed  four  deer. 
River  rises  13  inches.     Rain  continues. 

Aug.  6th.  We  embarked  at  half  past  eight  o'clock,  it 
having  cleared  off  and  had  the  appearance  of  a  fine  day. 
Passed  [Little]  Gravel  river  [of  Pike,  now  Big  Gravois  creek] 
on  the  west."     About  three  miles  above  this  river  the  Indi- 

"  Taking  Pike  past  .1  place  called  Bagnell,  on  the  right,  just  below  present 
Little  Gravois  cr.,  in  Miller  Co.,  and  setting  him  somewhere  about  the  point  on 
the  river  where  Miller,  Morgan,  .and  Camden  cos.  come  together — the  latter  on 
the  S.,  the  two  former  on  the  N.  side,  as  the  river  is  here  running  E.  His 
camp  of  Aug.  4th  and  5th  is  marked  on  his  map,  on  the  left,  just  below  the 
mouth  of  his  Little  Clravcl  r.,  which  he  passes  on  the  6th  :  see  next  note. 

'"  On  the  right  hand  .as  Pike  ascends,  left  bank  of  the  Osage,  and  rather  on 
the  N.  than  W.,  as  the  general  course  of  the  river  is  to  the  E.  The  "  Gravel  " 
rivers  of  Pike  require  attention  in  identifying  them  with  ours.  The  Osage  is 
here  making  an  ox-bow  bend,  which  reverses  points  of  the  compass  so  far  as  a 
traveler's  right  and  left  are  concerned.  The  stream  now  in  question,  Gravel  r. 
of  (lie  above  text,  lettered  "  L.  Gr.ivel  R."  on  the  map,  is  that  now  known  .as 
Big  Gr.avois,  Gravis,  or  Gravel  cr.,  running  in  Morgan  Co.,  witli  a  ]ilace  called 


AUGLAISE   CREEK — BEIXE   ROCHE.  375 

ans  left  us  and  informed  me  that,  by  keeping  a  little  to  the 
south  and  west,  they  would  make  in  15  miles  what  would  be 
at  least  35  miles  for  us.  Dr.  Robinson,  Mr.  Henry,  and  Ser- 
geant Ballenger  accompanied  them.  Killed  two  deer.  Dis- 
tance 13  miles. 

Aii£:  yth.  Not  being  detained  by  the  Indians,  we  are  for 
once  enabled  to  embark  at  a  quarter  past  five  o'clock.  The 
river  having  fallen  since  yesterday  morning  about  four  feet, 
wc  wish  to  improve  every  moment  of  time  previous  to  its 
entire  fall.  We  proceeded  extremely  well,  passed  the  Saline 
[read  Great  Gravel  ■"]  river  [of  Pike,  now  Grand  Auglaise 
creek]  on  the  east,  and  encamped  opposite  La  Belle  Roche 
on  the  west  shore.  This  day  we  passed  many  beautiful 
cliffs  on  both  sides  of  the  river  ;  saw  a  bear  and  wolf  swim- 
ming the  river.  I  employed  myself  part  of  the  day  in  trans- 
lating into  French  a  talk  of  General  Wilkinson's  to  Che- 
veux  Blanche.""     Distance  21  miles. 

Gladstone  near  its  mouth,  one  known  as  Gravois  Mills  higher  up,  and  some 
of  whose  branches  are  called  Indian,  Soap,  and  Mill  creeks.  Cape  Galena  is 
lyi,  m.  above  the  mouth  of  this  river.  Present  Little  Gravois  cr.  is  that  one 
with  Bagnell  just  below  its  mouth  ;  it  is  laid  down  Ijy  an  unlettered  trace  on 
Pike's  map.  The  correct  form  of  the  word  is  Gravois,  being  F.  gravois,  rub- 
bish, rubble,  whence  "Gravel." 

''^  Not  the  Saline  r.  of  Pike's  map,  which  was  passed  on  the  3d.  "Saline 
river  "  of  the  present  text  is  a  slip  of  the  pen  or  memory  ;  Pike  meant  to  say 
Great  Gravel  r.,  as  correctly  laid  down  by  this  name  on  his  map  on  the  left  or 
south,  being  lettered  "  G.  Gravel  R."  This  is  not  the  Great  Gravel  or  ]!ig 
Gravois  cr.  of  present  maps,  but  the  considerable  stream  now  known  as  Grand 
Auglaise  cr. — a  name  also  perverted  from  the  F.  word  glaise,  clay,  into  Glaize 
or  Wet  Glaize  cr.  It  heads  in  Laclede  .and  Pulaski  cos.,  in  close  relation  with 
sources  of  the  Gasconade,  and  runs  about  N.  N.  \V.  Ihrongh  Camden  Co.  to  fall 
into  the  Osage  from  the  S.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  on  Pike's  left,  at  or 
near  a  place  called  Blackman's  Mills.  The  Osage  is  here  turning  from  its  E. 
course  to  N.,  whence  it  soon  bends  W.,  then  loops  N.  and  again  E.,  where  it 
receives  present  Big  or  Pike's  Little  Gravel  r.,  and  completes  another  ox-bow 
bend.  Camp  of  the  7th,  opposite  the  notable  bluff  called  "  La  Belle  Roche,"  is 
marked  on  Pike's  map,  not  far  above  a  place  now  called  Damsel,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Osage  ;  whence  the  Yungar  is  reached  for  breakfast  on  the  8th. 

^  Sic,  usually  in  Pike,  and  I  make  no  change.  But  "  Cheveux  Blanche  "  is  a 
phrase  joining  a  masculine  plural  noun  to  a  feminine  singular  adjective.  The 
English  ed.  .alters  to  Cheveu  Blanc  ;  but  as  doubtless  the  savage  had  more  than 


376  NIANGUA    RIVER— OLD   MAN'S   RAPIDS. 

Aug.  8th.  We  embarked  at  20  minutes  past  five  o'clock. 
Found  the  river  had  fallen  about  two  feet  during  the  night. 
At  the  confluence  of  the  Youngar  "  with  the  Osage  river  we 
breakfasted.  Encamped  at  night  on  a  bar.  Distance  21 
miles. 

Aug.  gth.  We  embarked  at  five  o'clock,  and  at  half  past 
si.x  met  the  Indians  and  our  gentlemen.  They  had  met 
with  nothing  extraordinary.  They  had  killed  in  their  cxcur- 
.sion  seven  deer  and  three  bear.  We  proceeded  to  an  old 
wintering  ground,  where  there  were  eight  houses,  occupied 
last  winter  by  [Blank],  who  had  not  been  able  to  proceed  any 
higher  for  want  of  water.  Passed  the  Old  Man's  Rapids, 
below  which,  on  the  west  shore,  are  some  beautiful  cliffs. 
Dined  with  the  Indians,  after  which  we  passed  Upper  Gravel 
river  on  the  west,  and  Pottoe  [qu.  Potcau  ?]  river  on  the 
east.  Sparks  went  out  to  hunt,  and  did  not  arrive  at  our 
encampment,  nor  did  the  Indians.     Distance  25  miles.'" 

one  hair  of  that  color,  probably  Cheveux  Blancs  would  be  better  in  form  and 
fact  for  the  F.  name  of  the  person  also  known  as  White  Hair. 

"  Before  the  Youngar  is  reached  Tike  passes  on  his  left  l-inn  cr. ;  county  seat 
called  I.inn  Creek,  a  mile  above  its  mouth.  The  name  of  the  river  has  fluctu- 
ated widely.  Pike  has  Yungar,  Youngar,  and  also  Nehemgar  ;  the  latest  G.  L. 
O.  and  U.  S.  G.  S.  maps  letter  Niangua.  The  word,  whatever  may  be  its  pref- 
erable form,  is  the  Osage  name  of  the  bear,  though  by  some  it  is  said  to  refer  to 
the  numerous  springs  at  the  sources  of  the  stream.  It  is  by  far  the  largest  tribu- 
tary of  the  Osage  thus  far  reached  ;  Pike  credits  it  with  a  canoe  navigation  of 
100  m.  The  main  stream  heads  in  Webster  Co..  in  rel.ition  with  sources  of  the 
Osage  fork  of  the  Gascon.ide,  and  runs  through  Dallas  C'o.,  also  touching  the  W. 
border  of  Laclede,  into  Camden  ;  its  tributaries  are  numerous  and  widespread. 
One  called  Little  Niangua  f.ills  in  on  the  W.,  6  or  8  m.  above  the  mouth  of  the 
main  river.  Today's  voy.ige  takes  the  Expedition  past  Pui-vis,  and  finishes 
about  4  m.  above  Bolinger  or  Bollinger  cr.,  from  the  S.,  on  which  are  the  Osage 
Iron  Works. 

"  Pike's  map  marks  none  of  the  places  p.issed  to-day  by  the  names  given  in 
his  text.  We  have  therefore  a  triple  adjustment  to  make — of  map  with  text,  and 
of  these  mth  modern  geography.  This  I  can  do,  bearing  in  minil  that  Pike 
docs  not  necessarily  mention  places  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  passed  en 
route,  and  th.it  all  his  mileages  are  guessed  at  by  the  hours  spent  in  making 
them.  His  map  marks  camp  of  Aug.  8th  a  good  ways  above  the  Niangua,  ami 
I  set  it  4  m.  above  Bolinger  cr. ,  .as  already  said.  For  the  ()th  the  ma]>  h.as  :  (i) 
Big   Rock  cr.,   riglit ;  (2)  Ra]iids  ;  (3)  Slave  r.,  right  ;  (4)  camp,   right.     The 


VERMILION,   TURKEY,   AND   OTHER   CREEKS.  377 

Sunday,  Aug.  loth.  Embarked  a  quarter  past  five  o'clock, 
when  the  sun  shone  out  very  clearly;  but  in  15  minutes  it 
began  to  rain,  and  continued  to  rain  very  hard  until  one 
o'clock.  Passed  the  Indians,  who  were  encamped  on  the 
west  shore,  about  half  a  mile,  and  halted  for  them.  They 
all  forded  the  river  but  Sans  Oreille,  who  brought  his  wife 
up  to  the  boats,  and  informed  me  that  Sparks  had  en- 
camped with  them,  but  left  them  early  to  return  in  search 
of  us.  We  proceeded  after  breakfast.  Sparks  arrived  just 
at  the  moment  we  were  embarking.  The  Indians  traversing 
the  country  on  the  east  had  sent  Sparks  with  Sans  Oreille. 
About  two  o'clock  split  a  plank  in  the  bottom  of  the 
batteau.  Unloaded  and  turned  her  up,  repaired  the 
breach,  and  continued  on  the  route.  By  four  o'clock  found 
the  Indians  behind  a  large  island  ;  we  made  no  stop,  and 
they  followed  us.  We  encamped  together  on  a  bar,  where 
we  proposed  halting  to  dry  our  corn,  etc.,  on  Monday. 
Killed  four  deer.     Distance  18^  miles." 

facts  in  the  case  are  :  Pearson's  branch,  left ;  Wells'  branch,  right  ;  Proctor  or., 
right,  on  which  is  Proctor;  Raney,  Rainey,  or  Rainy  cr.,  left,  with  Crittenden 
at  its  mouth — none  of  tlie  foregoing  noted  by  Pike  in  any  way  ;  then  (i)  Little 
Buffalo  cr.,  right,  on  or  near  wliich  is  a  place  called  Search  ;  (2)  rapids  along  a 
long  curved  bluff,  right,  with  tlirce  little  creeks  on  the  left  ;  (3)  Big  Buffalo  cr., 
right,  with  a  place  called  Riverviesv  at  its  mouth  ;  (4)  camp,  right.  This  makes 
about  25  m.,  barely  over  the  border  of  Morgan  into  Benton  Co.,  Big  Buffalo 
cr.  falling  in  just  short  of  the  same  boimdary  ;  whence  it  is  evident  that  (i) 
Big  Rocker,  of  the  map  is  (i)  Little  Buffalo  cr.,  on  wliicli  is  Search  ;  (3)  Slave  r. 
of  the  map  is  (3)  Big  Buff.alo  cr. ,  on  which  is  Riverview  ;  and  this  last  is  the 
Upper  Gravel  cr.  of  the  text.  This  ends  the  day,  for  by  no  stretch  can  we  get 
Pike  past  Pottoe  r.  of  the  text :  see  next  note  for  this. 

'' Text  gives  no  geography  to-day,  but  the  ma[)  shows  three  large  streams 
between  the  camp-marks  of  gth  and  loth.  These  are  :  (i)  a  river,  left,  lellcrcd 
"  P.  R." — that  is,  "  Pottoe"  r.;  (2)  Francis  r.,  right  ;  (3)  Cardinal  r.,  left. 
The  facts  in  the  case  are  :  Knobby  cr. ,  left,  sm.all,  at  lower  point  of  Williams 
isl.,  large  ;  (l)  a  large  creek,  left,  falling  in  at  head  of  Williams  isl.,  called 
Beaver  cr.  on  the  G.  L.  O.  map.  Deer  cr.  on  the  U.  S.  G.  S.  map,  and  on 
which  is  a  place  named  Hastain  ;  2  m.  above  its  mouth  is  another  place 
called  Duroc,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Osage  ;  (2)  a  very  large  creek,  right, 
variously  called  Vermilion,  Coal  Camp  or  Cole  Camp  cr. ;  (3)  a  very  large 
creek,  left,  called  Turkey  cr.  These  three  are  of  the  relative  sizes  and  in 
the  relative  positions  of  tlie  tliree   that    Pilcc   clinrts  ;    so    that    unquestionalily 


378  IDENTIFICATIONS   OF   VARIOUS   STREAMS. 

Au£:  nth.  We  continued  here  to  dry  our  corn  and 
baggage.  This  morning  we  had  a  match  at  shooting.  The 
prize  offered  to  the  successful  person  was  a  jacket  and 
a  twist  of  tobacco,  which  I  myself  was  so  fortunate  as  to 
win ;  I  made  the  articles,  however,  a  present  to  the  young 
fellow  who  waited  on  me.  After  this,  taking  Huddlcston 
with  me,  I  went  out  to  hunt;  after  traveling  about  12  miles 
we  arrived  at  the  river,  almost  exhausted  with  thirst.  I 
here  indulged  myself  by  drinking  plentifully  of  the  water, 
and  was  rendered  so  extremely  unwell  by  it  that  I  was 
scarcely  capable  of  pursuing  my  route  to  the  camp.  On 
arriving  opposite  it,  I  swam  the  river,  from  which  I  ex- 
perienced considerable  relief.  The  party  informed  me 
they  had  found  the  heat  very  oppressive,  and  the  mercury, 
at  sundown,  was  at  25°  Reaumer  [Reaumur].  This  day, 
for  the  first  time,  I  saw  trout  west  of  the  Allegheny  moun- 
tains. Reloaded  our  boats  and  finished  two  new  oars, 
which  were  requisite. 

Aug.  I2th.  Previously  to  our  embarkation,  which  took 
place  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  I  was  obliged  to  convince  my 
red  brethren  that,  if  I  protected  them,  I  would  not  suffer 
them  to  plunder  my  men  with  impunity ;  for  the  chief  had 
got  one  of  my  lads'  tin  cups  attached  to  his  baggage,  and, 
notwithstanding  it  was  marked  with  the  initials  of  the 
soldier's  name,  he  refused  to  give  it  up.  On  which  I 
requested  the  interpreter  to  tell  him,  "  that  I  had  no  idea 
that  he  had  purloined  the  cup,  but  supposed  some  other 

"  P.  R."  or  "  I'ottoe"  r.  of  Pike's  map  is  (:)  the  Beaver  or  Deer  cr  ;  (2) 
Francis  r.  is  the  Vermilion  or  Cole  or  Coal  Camp  cr. ;  and  (3)  Cardmal  r.  is  the 
Turkey  cr.  It  is  true  Pike  says  his  Pottoe  cr  was  passed  on  the  gth  ;  but  his 
map  shows  otherwise  ;  and  if  it  had  been,  that  is  a  question  of  the  location  of 
camp  for  the  gth,  not  affecting  the  identification  of  the  streams  here  made. 
The  queer  name  "Pottoe"  I  suppose  to  be  intended  for  Poteau,  and  not  a 
misprint  for  Potatoe  :  see  the  name  Pomme  de  Terra  or  Potatoe  for  a  river  fur- 
ther on.  Where  Pike  got  his  n.ame  Francis  r.  I  have  no  idea.  Ilis  Cardinal  r. 
I  imagine  was  so  called  by  some  confusion  with  Vermilion  r. ;  for  cardinal  and 
vermilion  arc  two  names  of  a  red  color — in  the  one  case  worn  by  certain  church 
dignitaries  on  their  heails.  in  the  other  by  cochineal  insects  on  their  bodies. 
Camp  of  the  loth  (and  i  Ith)  is  3  or  4  m.  above  Turkey  cr. 


CAMP  ABOVE  THE   MOUTH   OF   GRAND    RIVER.        379 

person  had  attached  it  to  his  baggage  ;  but  that,  knowing 
it  to  be  my  soldier's,  I  requested  him  to  dcHver  it  up,  or 
I  should  be  obliged  to  take  other  measures  to  obtain  it." 
This  had  the  desired  effect ;  for  I  certainly  should  have  put 
my  threats  into  execution,  from  this  principle,  formed  from 
my  experience  during  my  intercourse  with  Indians,  that  if 
you  have  justice  on  your  side,  and  do  not  enforce  it,  they 
universally  despise  you.  When  we  stopped  for  dinner,  one 
of  my  men  took  his  gun  and  went  out ;  not  having  returned 
when  we  were  ready  to  re-embark,  1  left  him.  Passed  the 
Indians  twice  when  they  were  crossing  the  river.  Passed 
some  very  beautiful  cliffs  on  the  W.  [N.  or  right]  shore  ; 
also  Vermillion  [Little  Tabeau]  and  Grand  rivers,  the 
latter  of  which  is  a  large  stream,  and  encamped  at  the 
[first  bend  above  it,  on  the  E.  or  left-hand  bank  of  the 
Osage"].     Distance  24  miles. 

Immediately  after  our  encampment  a  thunder-storm  came 

^  The  lacuna  of  the  orig.  text  can  be  supplied  from  the  map,  which  marks 
camp  of  the  12th  as  above  said.  On  decamping;  this  morning  Pike  passed  what 
he  charts  as  Cave  cr.  This  is  the  middle  one  of  three  insignificant  runs  which 
make  in  on  the  right.  "Vermillion"  r.  of  to-day  is  a  mistake.  This  is  the 
stream  Pike  charts  as  Deep  cr.,  on  the  right,  immediately  below  Grand  r.,  and 
is  that  now  called  Little  Tebo,  Teabo,  Tabo,  Tebeau,  etc.  These  are  com- 
monly supposed  to  be  forms  of  a  personal  name  ;  but  I  am  informed  by  R.  I. 
Holcombe  they  are  perversions  of  Terre  Beau,  old  name  of  the  prairie  in  Lafay- 
ette Co.  where  the  "  Tebo  "  r.  that  flows  into  the  Missouri  rises.  The  Osage 
tributary  called  Tebo,  etc.,  falls  in  a  mile  below  Grand  r. ;  its  E.  fork  is  mean- 
dered for  some  miles  by  the  Sedalia,  Warsaw  and  Southern  branch  of  the  Mo. 
Pac.  R.  R.,  which  then  leaves  the  creek  and  strikes  the  Osage  2>^  ra.  below 
Warsaw.  This  is  the  county  seat  of  Benton,  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Osage,  2  m. 
below  Little  Talwau  cr.  and  three  below  Grand  r.,  opposite  the  very  large  island 
also  called  Warsaw.  Grand  r.  of  the  text  and  present  maps  is  the  largest  branch 
of  the  Osage  passed  since  the  Niangua  was  left.  It  falls  in  on  the  N.,  a  mile 
below  Wright's  isl.  Some  of  its  affluents  head  not  far  from  Independence  (on 
the  Mo.  r.),  and  others  in  Kans.is.  Its  largest  branch  is  Big  cr.;  others  are 
Deep  Water  and  Big  Tabeau.  Camp  is  in  the  bight  of  the  bend  that  receives 
Grand  r. ,  between  Wright's  and  Ilolloway  isls. 

Pike  has  mapped  the  river  unmistakably  along  here,  rendering  identifications 
easy  ;  but  the  text  is  not  so  correct,  and  requires  the  interpretation  I  have 
given.  The  mileages  of  the  I0th-I2th  seem  excessive.  Here,  as  in  various 
uther  places,  he  seems  to  have  supplied  the  loss  of  orig.  notes  from  memory. 


380  PERIPLUS   OK   THE   PARK. 

on,  which  blew  overboard  my  flag-staff  and  a  number  of 
articles  of  my  clothing,  which  were  on  top  of  the  cabin,  and 
sunk  them  immediately.  Being  much  fatigued  and  the 
bank  difficult  of  ascent,  lay  down  in  the  cabin  without 
supper  and  slept  all  night.  It  continued  to  rain.  The  man 
[SparksJ  I  left  on  shore  arrived  on  the  opposite  bank  in  the 
night,  having  killed  two  deer,  but  was  obliged  to  leave  the 
largest  behind.  Finding  he  was  not  to  be  sent  for,  he  con- 
cealed his  gun  and  deer,  and  swam  the  river. 

Aug.  ijtii.  It  continued  to  rain.  In  the  morning  sent 
a  boat  over  for  Sparks'  gun  and  deer.  Embarked  at  half 
past  nine  o'clock.  Stopped  to  dine  at  two  o'clock.  During 
the  time  we  halted,  the  river  rose  over  the  flat  bar  on  which 
we  were  ;  this,  if  we  had  no  other  proof,  would  convince  us 
we  were  near  the  head  of  the  river,  as  the  rain  must  have 
reached  it.  We  made  almost  a  perfect  circle,  so  that  I  do 
not  believe  we  were  to-night  three  miles  from  where  we 
encamped  last  night.  This  day,  for  the  first  time,  we  have 
prairie  hills.     Distance  13  miles." 

Aug.  I4.th.  Embarked  at  half  past  five  o'clock.  Passed 
the  Park,  which  is  10  miles  around,  and  not  more  than  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  across,  bearing  from  S.  5°  E.  to  due  N. 
At  its  head  we  breakfasted,  and  just  as  we  were  about  to 
put  off  we  saw  and  brought-to  a  canoe  manned  with  three 

"  In  making  the  circuit  Pike  passed  two  rivers  which  he  charts  by  name  as 
"  IlallicoR."  ,nnd  "  Potatoe  R.,"  both  from  the  S. ,  or  on  his  left  as  he  ascends. 
Potatoe  is  clearly  the  same  name  as  Pomme  de  Terre,  by  which  latter  title  is 
now  mapped  the  large  stream  which  heads  in  Webster  Co. ,  cuts  the  N.  E.  corner 
of  Green,  perhaps  also  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Dall.is,  then  traverses  Polk  and 
Hickory,  and  in  Ucnton  falls  into  the  bight  of  the  bend  of  the  Osage  herein 
mentioned.  The  natives  call  this  river  "  Pumly  Tar."  Two  miles  above  its 
mouth  it  receives  the  Little  I'omme  de  Terre,  from  the  W.,  in  the  vicinity  ol 
Fairfield.  A  much  smaller  stream,  next  above  on  the  same  hand,  which  is 
received  in  the  same  bend  of  the  Osage,  is  Hogle's  cr.  The  relative  situations 
of  these  would  make  Pike's  Hallico  correspond  to  Pomme  de  Terre,  and  his 
Potato  to  Hogle's.  But  I  have  no  doubt  he  meant  by  Potato  the  river  now 
called  Pomme  de  Terre,  and  we  need  not  insist  upon  the  reversal  of  names, 
especially  as  there  may  be  some  small  stream  below  to  answer  to  Hallico,  and 
it  would  be  nothing  for  Pike  to  pass  over  so  small  a  creek  as  Hogle's,  both  in 
the  text  and  on  the  map. 


NEARING  THE   OSAGE   VILLAGES.  38 1 

engagees  of  Mr.  [Chouteau],  who  informed  us  that  the  Little 
Osage  had  marched  a  war-party  against  the  Kans,  and  the 
Grand  Osage  a  party  against  our  citizens  on  the  Arkansaw 
river.  Wrote  by  them  to  the  general "'  and  all  friends. 
Gave  the  poor  fellows  some  whisky  and  eight  quarts  of 
corn,  they  having  had  only  two  turkeys  for  four  days.  We 
left  them  and  proceeded,  passing  on  our  east  some  of  the 
largest  cedars  I  ever  saw.  Came  on  very  well  in  the  after- 
noon, and  encamped "  on  an  island  above  Turkey  island. 
Distance  28  miles. 

Ai/i^.  i^t/i.  Wc  embarked  at  five  o'clock,  and  at  eight 
o'clock  met  the  Indians  and  the  gentlemen^"  who  accompa- 
nied them.  Found  all  well.  They  had  been  joined  by  their 
friends  and  relatives  from  the  village,  with  horses  to  trans- 
port their  baggage.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  informed  me  that 
their  meeting  was  very  tender  and  affectionate — "  wives 
throwing  themselves  into  the  arms  of  their  husbands,  par- 
ents embracing  their  children,  and  children  their  parents, 
brothers  and  sisters  meeting,  one  from  captivity,  the  other 
from  the  towns;  they  at  the  same  time  returning  thanks  to 

"This  letter  formed  Doc.  No.  8  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  2.  The  name,  omission 
of  which  causes  the  hiatus  in  tlie  text,  is  Chouteau.  The  letter  was  sent  by  one 
Baptiste  La  Tulipe,  wlio  is  no  doubt  the  man  of  whom  we  read  in  Fremont, 
Rep.  1845,  p.  iS  :  "I  had  found  an  old  companion  on  the  northern  prairie,  a 
hardened  and  hardly-served  veteran  of  the  mountains,  who  had  been  as  much 
hacked  and  scarred  as  an  old  moustache  of  Napoleon's  '  old  guard.*  He 
flourished  in  the  soubriquet  of  La  Tulipe,  and  his  real  name  I  never  knew." 

"  Near  the  N.  E.  corner  of  St.  Clair  Co.  and  the  S.  E.  corner  of  Henry  Co. 
The  Park  is  a  narrow,  somewhat  rectangular  loop  of  the  Osage,  including  some 
bold  bluffs  in  its  bight.  The  distance  was  much  under  "  28"  m.,  unless  the 
river  were  then  even  crookeder  than  it  is  now.  We  have  to  foreshorten  the 
mileages  along  here,  in  order  to  bring  Pike  into  anything  like  the  proper  posi- 
tion above  the  mouth  of  Sac  r.  on  the  i6th.  He  jiasses  five  or  six  small  creeks 
to-day,  the  last  and  largest  being  charted  by  Pike  as  Buckeye  cr.  This  is 
Wright's,  from  the  S.,  in  St.  Clair  Co.  A  mile  above  this  is  a  large  island, 
which  seems  to  be  Pike's  Turkey  isl. ;  and  a  mile  above  this  is  another,  prob- 
ably that  on  which  he  camped. 

'*That  is  to  say,  Lieut.  Wilkinson,  Dr.  Robinson,  the  interpreter,  and  one 
soldier,  who  left  the  boats  to  march  across  country  with  some  of  the  Indians, 
thus  avoiding  the  periplus  of  several  bends  in  the  river. 


382         TUTTING   POLISHED   SOCIETY  TO   THE   I'.LUSM. 

the  Good  God  for  having  brought  them  once  more  to- 
gether " — in  short,  the  tout  ensemble  was  such  as  to  make 
polished  society  blush,  when  compared  with  those  savages, 
in  whom  the  passions  of  the  mind,  whether  joy,  grief,  fear, 
anger,  or  revenge,  have  their  full  scope.  Why  can  wc  not 
correct  the  baneful  passions,  without  weakening  the  good  ? 
Sans  Oreille  made  them  a  speech,  in  which  he  remarked : 
"  Osage,  you  now  see  your  wives,  your  brothers,  your 
daughters,  your  sons,  redeemed  from  captivity.  Who  did 
this?  Was  it  the  Spaniards?  No.  The  French?  No. 
Had  either  of  those  people  been  governors  of  the  country, 
your  relatives  might  have  rotted  in  captivity,  and  you  never 
would  have  seen  them  ;  but  the  Americans  stretched  forth 
their  hands,  and  they  are  returned  to  you  1  What  can  you 
do  in  return  for  all  this  goodness  ?  Nothing ;  all  your 
lives  would  not  suffice  to  repay  their  goodness."  This  man 
had  children  in  captivity,  not  one  of  whom  we  were  able  to 
obtain  for  him. 

The  chief  then  requested  that  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and 
Dr.  Robinson  might  be  permitted  to  accompany  them  by 
land,  to  which  1  consented.  Wrote  a  letter  to  Chcveux 
Blanche,  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson.  When  we  parted,  after 
delivering  the  Indians  their  baggage.  Sans  Oreille  put  an 
Indian  on  board  to  hunt,  or  obey  any  other  commands  I 
might  have  for  him.  We  stopped  at  eleven  o'clock  to  dry  our 
baggage.  Found  our  biscuit  and  crackers  almost  all  ruined. 
Put  off  at  half  past  four  o'clock,  and  encamped  at  three- 
quarters  past  five  o'clock.     Distance  15^  miles." 

Aug.  i6t/i.     We  embarked  at  five  o'clock  and   came  on 

"  Pike  is  still  considerably  below  the  present  site  of  Osceola,  at  the  neck  of 
the  last  remarkable  bend  the  river  m.ikes  some  6  or  7  m.  (direct  distance) 
from  that  town.  At  present  this  loop  is  4  or  5  m.  around  and  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  across  at  the  narrowest  part.  It  receives  several  creeks 
from  the  N.  E.,  E.,  and  S.,  the  highest  and  l.irgest  now  called  Bear  cr.  In 
this  day's  course,  which  does  not  include  the  circuit  of  the  bend,  Pike  charts 
a  certain  "  East  River,"  which  he  runs  in  directly  from  the  W.  This  corre- 
sponds in  position  with  the  stream  now  called  Muddy  cr.,  but  if  meant  for  that 
it  is  drawn  much  too  large — lialf  .is  large  as  Grand  r.  itself. 


OSCEOLA — SAC   RIVER — SWALLOW'S   NEST.  383 

extremely  well  in  the  barge  to  an  evacuated  French  hunt- 
ing-camp 12  miles  to  breakfast,  the  batteaux  coming  up 
late.  We  exchanged  hands.  About  twelve  o'clock  passed 
the  Grand  Fork  [confluence  of  Sac  river  with  the  Osage, 
above  Osceola],  which  is  equal  in  size  to  the  one  on  which 
we  pursued  our  route.  Waited  to  dine  at  the  rocks  called 
the  Swallow's  Nest,  on  the  W.  shore,  above  the  forks.  The 
batteaux  having  gained  nearly  half  an  hour,  the  crews  are 
convinced  that  it  is  not  the  boat,  but  men  who  make  the 
difference  ;  each  take  their  own  boat,  after  which  we  pro- 
ceeded very  well,  the  water  being  good  and  men  in  spirits. 
Saw  an  elk  on  the  shore  ;  also  met  an  old  man  alone  hunt- 
ing, from  whom  we  obtained  no  information  of  conse- 
quence. Encamped  on  the  W.  shore  of  Mine  [or  Mire] 
river.     Distance  37  miles." 

'"'  Several  points  require  attention  in  this  long  course,  whatever  its  actual 
length  may  have  been.  i.  Passing  Osceola  in  the  forenoon,  Pike  reaches  his 
"  Grand  I'ork,"  i.  e.,  the  confluence  of  Sac  r.  with  the  Osage,  at  noon.  This 
is  clear,  and  the  distance  seems  about  riglit  from  the  place  where  I  set  his  camp 
of  the  15th.  But  the  streams  he  charts  on  this  course,  below  the  forks,  are  not 
more  easily  disposed  of  than  was  the  "  East"  r.  2.  Thus,  on  the  same  side 
as  "  East"  r.,  about  halfway  from  this  to  the  forks,  he  lays  down  two  small 
streams  from  the  W.,  the  lower  of  which  he  names  Light  cr.  There  are  in  fact 
several  such  ;  and  it  may  be  reasonable  to  assume  that  by  Light  cr.  Pike  means 
the  largest  of  them.  This  is  the  one  now  called  Gallinipper  cr.,  which  falls  in 
a  mile  below  Osceola,  and  which  is  now  meandered  for  a  few  miles  by  both  the 
Kansas  City,  Clinton,  and  Springfield  R.  R.,  and  the  Kas.  Cy.  and  Southern 
R.  R.  3.  After  rounding  the  bend  above  described,  and  passing  the  Bear  cr. 
there  said,  Pike  passes  two  creeks  on  his  left,  from  the  S.,  one  of  which  he  charts 
by  the  name  of  Lime  r.  This  probably  answers  to  the  stream  now  called 
Wablo,  or  Weablo,  or  Weaubleau  cr.  The  other  one  of  the  two  is  Brushy  cr. 
But  the  identification  of  Lime  r.  with  Weaubleau  cr.,  and  of  Light  with  Galli- 
nipper, throws  both  out  of  relative  position,  and  introduces  a  difficulty  which 
can  only  be  done  away  with  by  supposing  an  error  of  the  map.  4.  Osceola  is 
the  seat  of  St.  Clair  Co.,  on  the  left  hand  going  up  river,  3  or  4  m.  below  the 
mouth  of  Sac  r.  This  village  is  notable  as  a  point  up  to  which  steamboats 
used  to  come,  especially  during  our  Civil  War  ;  it  was  burned  in  Sept.,  1861,  by 
"  Jim  "  Lane  (James  Henry  Lane,  b.  Lawrenceburg,  Ind. ,  June  22d,  1814,  com- 
mitted suicide  at  Leavenworth,  Kas.,  July,  i865)  ;  pop.  lately  331.  5.  Two 
of  the  little  crosses  A\hich  usually  mark  Pike's  camps  are  superfluous  for  the  14th— 
16th.  One  I  cannot  account  for  ;  the  other  evidently  marks  the  spot  where 
Bel  Oiseau  was  killed,  as  there  is  the  legend  "  Beloiseau  Kill'd."     Pike  usually 


384  BEL  OISEAU— FORT  CARONDELET. 

We  to-day  passed  the  place  where  the  chief  called  Belle 
Oiseau,  and  others,  were  killed.  The  Belle  Oiseau  was 
killed  by  the  Sacs  in  the  year  1804,  in  a  boat  of  Manuel  de 
Liza,  when  on  his  way  down  to  St.  Louis,  in  order  to  join 
the  first  deputation  of  his  nation  who  were  forwarded  to  the 
seat  of  government  by  Governor  Lewis.  A  particular  rela- 
tion of  the  event,  no  doubt,  has  been  given  by  that  gentle- 
man. This  chief  had  a  son  who  accompanied  me  to  the 
Pawnee  nation,  and  whose  honorable  deportment,  attach- 
ment to  our  government,  amiableness  of  disposition,  and 
the  respect  and  esteem  in  which  he  was  held  by  his  com- 
peers, entitle  him  to  the  attention  of  our  agents  to  his 
nation. 

Sunday,  Aug.  lyth.  We  embarked  at  five  o'clock  and 
came  12  miles  to  breakfast.  At  four  o'clock  arrived  at  10 
French  houses  on  the  E.  shore,  where  was  then  residing 
a  Sac,  who  was  married  to  an  Osage  femme  and  spoke 
French  only.  We  afterward  passed  the  position  where  Mr. 
[Pierre]  Chouteau  formerly  had  his  fort  [Fort  Caronde- 
let "],  not  a  vestige  of  which  was  remaining,  the  spot  being 

calls  him  Belle  Oiseau  ;  but  the  French  noun  is  of  the  same  gender  as  the  Indian 
liimstlf,  lie  was  also  known  as  Beautiful  Bird.  6.  The  Sac  is  about  as  large 
as  the  Osage  at  their  confluence  ;  it  runs  on  an  average  due  N.  course  from 
Lawrence,  through  Dade  and  Cedar,  into  St.  Clair  Co.  We  are  told  by  the 
old  pioneer  "  Jack  "  Beard  that  the  river  was  so  called  because  a  party  of  Sacs 
(probably  of  the  Missouri  River  band)  camped  on  it  about  1S20  ;  in  the  fall  of 
1861  Sterling  I'rice's  rebel  army  were  on  this  river  for  several  weeks.  7.  Camp 
is  set  on  the  left  bank  or  right  hand  of  the  Osage,  above  Salt  cr.,  right,  and  just 
below  the  mouth  of  the  stream  from  the  N.  called  Mine  r.  in  the  text,  but 
lettered  "  Mire  Cr."  on  the  map.  This  is  the  Little  Monegan,  Monegau,  or 
Monegaw  or. ;  the  place  called  Monegaw  Springs  is  in  the  vicinity.  (The  name 
may  be  preferably  Afoncga,  Osage  word  for  "  wolf.") 

"  Legended  "  Chouteau's  "  on  the  map,  where  the  cross  X  also  does  duty  for 
to-night's  camp,  two  miles  higher  up.  The  spot  can  be  identified  by  the  coal 
bank  and  shoal  mentioned,  though  the  "4l}^"m.  assigned  for  the  day's 
journey  take  us  beyond  the  confluence  of  the  Little  Osage,  and  we  see  by  to- 
morrow's itinerary  that  we  are  still  half  a  day's  sail  short  of  that  point.  Pierre 
Chouteau's  place  was  known  in  Spanish  records  as  Fort  Carondelet,  and  was 
built  about  1790  at  what  is  now  called  Ilalley's  Bluff  named  for  Col.  Anselm 
llalley.     It  was  an   actual    fortification    with  mounted  swivels,  which  Lieut. 


CONFLUENCE  OF  LITTLE  AND  GREAT  OSAGE  RIVERS.      385 

only  marked  by  the  superior  growth  of  vegetation.  Here 
the  river-bank  is  one  solid  bed  of  stone-coal,  just  below 
which  is  a  very  shoal  and  rapid  ripple  [Kaw  rapids,  where 
was  Collen  or  Colly  ford]  ;  whence  to  the  village  of  the  Grand 
Osage  is  nine  miles  across  a  large  prairie.  We  came  about 
two  miles  above  [Chouteau's],  and  encamped  on  the  W. 
[right-hand]  shore.  This  day  the  river  has  been  generally 
bounded  by  prairies  on  both  sides.     Distance  41^  miles. 

A 11^.  iStli.    We  put  off  at  half  past  five  o'clock.    Stopped 
at  nine  o'clock  to  breakfast.     Passed  the  second  fork "  of 

Wilkinson  speaks  of  in  his  Report  (given  beyond) :  but  it  was  only  maintained 
for  a  few  years.  The  post  is  twice  noticed  in  the  Hist,  of  Vernon  Co.,  1887, 
by  R.  I.  Holcombe,  who  informs  me  that  he  went  over  the  ground,  including 
Blue  Mound,  Timbered  Hill,  and  other  places  in  the  vicinity,  and  that  some 
old  caches  in  the  sandstone  may  still  be  seen.  i.  In  the  course  of  to-day's  voy- 
age the  map  shows  a  large  stream,  unnamed,  falling  in  from  the  N.,  on  the  right- 
hand  or  left  bank.  This  is  evidently  intended  for  Big  Monegan  or  Monegaw 
cr. ;  place  called  Dollie  at  its  mouth.  2.  Higher  up,  on  the  other  side,  another 
nameless  cr.  is  charted,  from  the  S.  This  is  Beshaw,  better  called  Clear,  cr. ; 
quite  large,  coming  from  Barton,  through  Vernon,  past  the  N.  W.  corner  of 
Cedar,  into  St.  Clair  Co.  3.  Above  this.  Pike  has  two  traces,  both  from  the  N., 
unnamed.  One  of  these  doubtless  represents  Panther  or  Painter  cr.,  in  Bates 
Co.  Here  the  Mo.,  Kan.  and  Te.\.  R.  R.,  a  branch  of  the  Mo.  Pac.  R.  R., 
crosses  the  Osage  between  Rockville  on  the  N.  and  Schell  City  on  the  S.  of  that 
river.  These  places  are  4  m.  apart.  A  mile  or  two  below  this  crossing  the 
Osage  now  forms  a  circle  circumscribing  a  large  round  island,  nearly  a  mile  in 
diameter,  which  may  have  been  a  bend  in  Pike's  time.  Several  smaller  streams 
than  those  just  named  fall  into  the  Osage  on  either  side,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
miles,  as  Miller,  McKenzie,  Shaw,  Willow,  and  Lady's.  The  "  10  French 
houses"  Pike  speaks  of  were  opp.  the  mouth  of  Lady's  cr.  (named  for  oneWm. 
Lady).  Camp  was  on  the  N.  W.  side  of  the  Osage,  near  Lady's  cr. ,  and  thus 
in  the  vicinity  of  Papinsville  (old  Harmony  Mission). 

*'  A  most  important  point  in  this  itinerary,  for  here  is  the  junction  of  the 
Little  Osage  with  the  main  stream,  which  latter  Pike  now  leaves  to  proceed  up 
the  former  to  the  villages,  and  so  on  into  Kansas,  etc.  He  elsewhere  says  : 
"The  three  branches  of  the  [Osage]  river,  viz.;  the  large  east  fork  [/.  «.'. , 
Sac  r.,  lying  E.  of  where  he  now  is],  the  middle  one  up  which  we  ascended 
[»'.  e..  Little  Osage],  and  the  northern  one  \i.  e.,  main  Osage]."  The  present 
confluence  is  at  the  point  where  Bates  and  Veraon  cos.  begin  or  cease  to  be 
separated  by  the  meanders  of  the  Osage  ;  for  the  Little  Osage  runs  in  Vernon 
Co.,  and  the  main  Osage,  above  the  confluence,  runs  in  Bates.  There  is 
a  conspicuous  mound  in  the  prairie,  a  short  distance  S.  of  this  "  second  fork," 
giving  name  to  Blue  Mound  township.     Both  forks  head  beyond  (W.  of)  the 


386         NAVIGATION   OF   THE   LITTLE   OSAGE   ENDED. 

the  river  at  twelve  o'clock,  the  right-hand  fork  bearing  N., 
about  30  yards  wide ;  the  left,  the  one  which  we  pursued, 
N.  60°  W.,  and  not  more  than  50  or  60  feet  in  width,  very 
full  of  old  trees,  etc.,  but  with  plenty  of  water.  Observed  the 
road  where  the  chiefs  and  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  crossed. 
We  proceeded  until  one  o'clock,  wlien  we  were  halted  by 
a  large  drift  quite  across  the  river.  Dispatched  Baroney  to 
the  village  of  the  Grand  Osage,  to  procure  horses  to  take 
our  baggage  nearer  to  the  towns,  and  unloaded  our  boats. 
In  about  two  hours  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  with  Tuttasuggy, 
arrived  at  our  camp,  the  former  of  whom  presented  me  an 
express  from  the  general "  and  letters  from  my  friends. 
The  chiefs  remained  at  our  camp  all  night.  I  was  attacked 
by  a  violent  headache.  It  commenced  raining,  and  con- 
tinued with  great  force  until  day.  Distance  19^  miles. 
A?ijf.   igth.     We  commenced  very  early   to  arrange  our 

Missouri  State  line,  in.  Kansas,  in  which  State  the  main  Osage  r.  bears  the 
name  of  Marais  des  Cygnes.  The  "  large  drift  "  in  the  Little  Osage  which 
stopped  the  boats  is  marked  and  so  legended  on  the  map,  a  short  distance  above 
the  forks.  It  seems  to  have  been  above  the  mouth  of  Muddy  cr. ,  which  falls  in 
from  the  N.  within  2  m.  of  the  forks,  and  was  probably  about  the  jilace  where 
there  is  now  some  marshy  ground  on  the  W.  side,  opposite  Horseshoe  1.  The 
latter  is  a  mile  long  around  the  curve,  and  discharges  by  a  short  stream  into  the 
Little  Os.ige,  from  the  S.,  between  the  forks  and  the  mouth  of  Muddy  cr. 
Doubtless  it  was  once  the  bed  of  the  river.  Close  by  this  lake,  an  eastward 
bend  of  the  Liule  Osage  receives  a  creek  from  the  S.;  and  beyond  this  was  the 
Grand  Osage  village,  close  to  which  Pike  established  what  he  calls  Camp  Inde 
pendence,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  river,  near  the  confluence  of  Marmiton  or 
Marmaton  r.  This  stream  falls  in  from  the  S.,  and  is  rather  larger  than  the 
Little  Osage  ;  in  fact,  it  forms  with  the  latter  the  main  forks.  The  M.ar- 
miUm  receives  Drywood  cr.  a  few  miles  .above  its  confluence  with  the  little 
Osage.  The  name  of  this  river  is  a]iparently  the  F.  word  >iiarinifon,  scullion, 
from  mnrmile,  pot  or  kettle  ;  the  settlers  pronounce  it  "  Monimytaw."  I''or 
other  features  of  the  locality  we  may  note  that  the  river  bottoms  arc  here  below 
the  750-foot  contour  line,  which  represents  the  general  level  of  the  surround- 
ing prairie  ;  and  that  there  is  an  isolated  mound  or  butte  of  850  feet  or  more 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  Marmiton  and  close  to  this  river,  at  the  first  bend  it 
makes  eastward.  The  Marmiton  is  otherwise  notable  in  the  present  connection, 
as  I'ike's  further  route  goes  between  it  anil  the  Little  Osage. 

■"  A  letter  received  from  General  Wilkinson  by  this  exjjrcss  formed  Doc.  No.  y 
of  the  App.  to  Part  2. 


FLATTERING   RECEPTION   BY   THE   OSAGES.  387 

baggage,  but  liad  not  finished  at  one  o'clock,  when  the  chief 
of  the  Grand  Osage,  and  40  or  50  men  of  his  village, 
arrived  with  horses.  We  loaded  and  took  our  departure  for 
the  place  where  Manuel  de  Liza  had  his  establishment, 
[near  Fort  Carondelet],  at  which  we  arrived  about  four 
o'clock,  and  commenced  pitching  our  encampment  near  the 
edge  of  the  prairie,  when  I  was  informed  that  three  men 
had  arrived  from  St.  Louis  sent  by  Manuel  de  Liza.  I  dis- 
patched Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  the  village  with  Baroney, 
who  brought  to  camp  the  man  [Jean  Baptiste  Duchou- 
quette]  who  had  charge  of  the  others  from  St.  Louis  ;  he 
having  no  passport,  I  detained  him  until  further  con- 
sideration. Our  reception  by  the  Osage  was  flattering,  and 
particularly  by  White  Hair  and  our  fellow-travelers.  This 
evening  there  arrived  in  the  village  of  the  Grand  Osage  an 
express  from  the  Arkansaw,  who  brought  the  news  that  a 
boat,  ascending  that  river,  had  been  fired  on,  had  two  white 
men  killed  and  two  wounded,  and  that  the  brother-in-law 
of  Cheveux  Blanche,  who  happened  to  be  on  board,  was 
also  killed.     This  put  the  whole  village  in  mourning. 

Aug-.  20th.  About  twelve  o'clock  I  dispatched  Baroney 
for  the  chiefs  of  the  Grand  [Osage]  village,  in  order  to  give 
the  general's  parole  to  Cheveux  Blanche  ;  also,  a  young  man 
to  the  village  of  the  Little  Osage.  Cheveux  Blanche  and 
his  people  arrived  about  three  o'clock,  and  after  waiting 
some  time  for  Wind  and  his  people,  I  just  informed  the 
chiefs  that  I  had  merely  assembled  them  to  deliver  the 
parole  of  the  general  and  present  the  marks  of  distinction 
intended  for  Cheveux  Blanche  and  his  son — hanging  a  grand 
medal  round  the  neck  of  the  latter.  The  packets  committed 
to  my  charge  for  the  relations  of  the  deceased  Osages  were 
then  delivered  to  them,  the  widow  making  the  distribution. 
It  must  be  remarked  that  I  had  merely  requested  Cheveux 
Blanche  to  come  with  his  son,  and  receive  the  general's 
message  ;  but  instead  of  coming  with  a  few  chiefs,  he  was 
accompanied  by  186  men,  to  all  of  whom  we  were  obliged  to 
give  something  to  drink.     WJicn  the  council  was  over  wc 


388  CAMP  INDEPENDENCE. 

mounted  our  horses,  rode  to  the  village,  and  halted  at  the 
quarters  of  the  chief,  where  we  were  regaled  with  boiled 
pumpkins;  then  we  went  to  two  different  houses,  and  were 
invited  to  many  others,  but  declined,  promising  that  I 
would  pay  them  a  visit  previous  to  my  departure,  and  spend 
the  whole  day.  We  then  returned  to  camp.  After  inquir- 
ing of  White  Hair  if  the  men  of  Manuel  de  Liza  had  any 
ostensible  object  in  view,  he  informed  me  that  they  had 
only  said  to  him  that  they  expected  Manuel  would  be  up  to 
trade  in  the  autumn.  I  concluded  to  take  the  deposition  of 
Babtiste  Larme  as  to  the  manner  in  which  he  was  employed 
by  Manuel  de  Liza,  forward  the  same  to  Dr.  Brown"  and 
the  attorney-general  of  Louisiana,  and  permit  the  men  to 
return  to  St.  Louis,  as  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  detach  a 
party  with  them  as  prisoners. 

Aug-.  2ist.  In  the  morning  White  Hair  paid  us  a  visit, 
and  brought  us  a  present  of  corn,  meat,  and  grease ;  we 
invited  him,  his  son,  and  son-in-law  to  breakfast  with  us, 
and  gave  his  companions  something  to  cat.  I  then  wrote  a 
number  of  letters  to  send  by  express,  and  inclosed  the 
deposition  of  Larme.  In  the  afternoon  we  rode  to  the 
village  of  the  Little  Osage,  and  were  received  by  our  fellow- 
travelers  with  true  hospitality.  Returned  in  the  evening, 
when  a  tremendous  storm  of  rain,  thunder,  and  lightning 
commenced,  and  continued  with  extraordinary  violence  until 
half  past  nine  o'clock.     It  was  with  great  difficulty  we  were 

■"  Joseph  Browne,  who  in  1806  was  first  Justice  of  the  Court  of  Common  Pleas 
in  and  for  the  District  of  St.  Louis,  appointed  by  Governor  and  General  Wil- 
kinson Tuesday,  Mar.  i8th,  1806  ;  in  1807  he  was  Territorial  secretary,  and 
sometimes  acting  governor.  He  was  succeeded  by  Frederick  Bates,  appointed 
secretary  by  Jefferson,  May  7th,  1S07  ;  see  L.  and  C,  p.  1236.  The  "  Bab- 
tiste Larme"  of  the  above  paratjraph  is  elsewhere  called  by  Pike  "  Mr.  Baptist 
Duchouquette  alias  Larme."  Billon's  Annals  of  St.  Louis  for  1764-1804,  pub. 
1886,  p.  437,  has  "  Jno.  B.  Duchouquette,  usually  cilled  Batiste  Lami."  Among 
the  signers  of  a  paper  rel.iting  to  the  erection  of  a  Roman  Catholic  church  in 
St.  Louis,  Oct.  30th,  iSig.is  found  "  Batiste  X  Duchouquete"(his  mark).  The 
alias  occurs  in  various  forms,  as  Lamic,  Lamy,  Lamme,  etc.  J.  B.  D.  was 
son  of  Fran9ois  Lafleur  Duchouquette  and  Celeste  Barrois  ;  b.  about  1 760,  d. 
May,  1834 ;  married  Marie  Brazeau,  St.  Louis,  1798. 


WHITE   HAIR   STILLS  THE   WIND.  389 

enabled  to  keep  our  tents  from  blowing  down.     The  place 
prepared  for  an  observatory  was  carried  away. 

Ai(_g:  22d.  Preparing  in  the  morning  for  the  council,  and 
committing  to  paper  the  heads  of  the  subject  on  which  I 
intended  to  speak.  The  chiefs  of  the  Little  Osage  arrived 
about  one  o'clock,  also  the  interpreter  of  the  Grand  Osage, 
who  pretended  to  say  that  the  Grand  Osage  had  expected 
us  at  their  village  with  the  Little  Osage.  Cheveux  Blanche 
arrived  with  his  chiefs.  The  ceremony  of  the  council  being 
arranged,  I  delivered  them  the  general's  parole,  forwarded 
by  express.  My  reason  for  not  delivering  it  until  this  time 
was  in  order  to  have  the  two  villages  together,  as  it  was 
equally  interesting  to  both.  After  this  I  explained  at  large 
the  will,  wishes,  and  advice  of  their  Great  Father,  and  the 
mode  which  I  conceived  most  applicable  to  carry  them  into 
effect.  Cheveux  Blanche  replied  in  a  few  words,  and  prom- 
ised to  give  me  a  full  reply  to-morrow.  Wind  replied  to  the 
same  amount ;  after  which  Cheveux  Blanche  addressed  him- 
self to  Wind  as  follows :  "  I  am  shocked  at  your  conduct, 
Tuttasuggy — you  who  have  lately  come  from  the  States, 
and  should  have  been  wise  ;  but  you  led  the  redeemed  cap- 
tives, with  an  officer  of  the  United  States,  to  your  village, 
instead  of  bringing  them  through  my  town  in  the  first 
instance."  To  this  Wind  made  no  reply,  but  left  his  scat 
shortly  after,  under  pretense  of  giving  some  orders  to  his 
young  men.  I  conceived  this  reprimand  intended  barely  to 
show  us  the  superiority  of  the  one  and  inferiority  of  the 
other ;  it  originated,  in  my  opinion,  from  an  altercation  of 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Cheveux  Blanche,  in  which  allu- 
sions were  made  by  the  former  to  the  friendly  conduct  of 
the  Little  Chief,  alias  Wind,  when  compared  to  that  of  the 
latter.  I  must  here  observe  that  when  the  chiefs  and  pris- 
oners left  me,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  I  did 
not  know  the  geographical  situation  of  the  two  villages," 

■"  The  village  of  the  Little  Osage  Indians  was  about  6  m.  higher  up  and  on 
the  other  (west)  side  of  the  river  of  the  same  name.  Marmiton  r.  falls  in  be- 
tween where  the  two  villages  were.     These  were  so  well-known  to  the  traders 


390  A  QUESTION  OF  HORSES. 

but  conceived  that,  in  going  to  the  Little  ViUage,  they 
would  pass  by  the  Grand  Village,  and  of  course  that  Lieu- 
tenant Wilkinson  and  the  chief  would  arrange  the  affair 
properly. 

Aug.  2jd.  I  expected  to  have  received  from  the  chiefs 
their  answers  to  my  demands  ;  but  received  an  express  from 
both  villages,  informing  me  that  they  wished  to  put  them  off 
until  to-morrow.  I  then  adjusted  my  instruments.  Took 
equal  altitudes  and  a  meridional  altitude  of  the  sun  ;  but, 
owing  to  flying  clouds,  missed  the  immersions  of  Jupiter's 
satellites. 

Sunday,  Aug.  24.th.  Was  nearly  half  the  day  in  adjusting 
the  line  of  collimation  in  the  telescopic  sights  of  my  theod- 
olite. It  began  to  cloud  before  evening,  and  although  the 
sky  was  not  entirely  covered,  I  was  so  unfortunate  as  to  miss 
the  time  of  an  immersion,  and,  although  clear  in  the  interme- 
diate period,  an  emersion  also.  I  was  informed  by  Baroney 
that  the  Little  Village  had  made  up  1 1  horses  for  us.  In 
the  evening,  however,  the  interpreter,  accompanied  by  the 
son-in-law  and  son  of  Chevcux  Blanche,  came  to  camp,  and 
informed  me  that  there  were  no  horses  to  be  got  in  the  vil- 
lage of  the  Big  Osage. 

The  son-in-law  spoke  as  follows :  "  I  am  come  to  give  you 
the  news  of  our  village,  which  is  unfortunate  for  us,  our 
chief  having  assembled  his  young  men  and  warriors  and  pro- 

and  others  in  Pike's  time  tliat  he  docs  not  take  the  trouble  to  say  exactly  where 
they  were  ;  nor  arc  we  favored  with  the  precise  location  of  Camp  Independ- 
ence, "  near  the  edge  of  the  prairie."  But  there  is  of  course  no  question  of  the 
exact  site  of  a  village  which  stood  for  more  than  a  century  :  see  for  example 
Holcombe's  Hist.  Vernon  Co.  Hundreds  of  Osages  were  buried  on  the  mound, 
to  which  their  desccndents  used  to  come  from  Kansas  to  cry  over  them,  as  late 
at  least  as  1874.  Among  the  remains  rested  those  of  old  White  Hair  himself, 
until  his  bones  were  dug  up  and  carried  off  by  Judge  C.  H.  Allen  of  Missouri. 
In  the  vicinity  of  the  upper  village  is  now  a  place  called  Arthur,  where  the 
Lexington  and  Southern  I)iv.  of  the  Mo.  Pac.  R.  R.  comes  south  from  Rich 
Ilill,  Hates  Co.,  and  continues  across  both  Little  Osage  and  Marmiton  rivers  ; 
a  mile  W.  of  its  crossing  of  the  former,  on  the  S.  of  that  river,  is  the  present 
hamlet  called  Little  Osage.  All  Pike's  positions  of  Aug.  i8th-.Sept.  1st  are  in 
the  present  Osage  township. 


FEW   HORSES  FORTHCOMING.  39I 

posed  to  them  to  furnish  horses,  etc.  They  have  generally 
refused  him  ;  but  I,  who  am  the  principal  man  after  Chev- 
eu.x  Blanche,  will  accompany  you."  The  son:  "Our  young 
men  and  warriors  will  not  take  pity  on  my  father,  nor  on 
me,  nor  on  you,  and  have  refused  to  comply  with  your  re- 
quest ;  but  I  will  accompany  you  with  two  horses  to  carry 
provision  for  your  voyage."  The  interpreter  :  "  The  Chev- 
cux  Blanche  was  ashamed  to  bring  you  this  answer,  but 
will  again  assemble  his  village  and  to-morrow  come  and  give 
you  the  answer."  I  replied  :  "  That  I  had  made  the  demand 
without  explanation,  merely  to  let  the  Osage  act  agreeably 
to  their  inclination,  in  order  that  we  might  see  what  disposi- 
tion they  would  exhibit  toward  us;  but  why  do  I  ask  of 
their  chiefs  to  follow  me  to  the  Pawnees  ?  Is  it  for  our 
good,  or  their  own  ?  Is  it  not  to  make  peace  with  the  Kans  ? 
To  put  their  wives  and  children  out  of  danger?  As  to  their 
horses  which  they  may  furnish  us  with,  I  will  pay  them  for 
their  hire  ;  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  I  can  pay  them  here, 
or  give  them  an  order  on  the  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affairs  at  St.  Louis  ;  but  this  I  do  not  now  wish  them  to  be 
made  acquainted  with." 

Ai{^.  2j//i.  In  the  morning  we  were  visited  by  Cheveux 
Blanche  and  three  or  four  of  his  chiefs,  who  were  pleased  to 
accord  to  my  demands.  He  found  much  difficulty  in  inform- 
ing mc  that  in  all  his  village  he  could  only  raise  four  horses, 
but  that  we  should  be  accompanied  by  his  son  and  son-in- 
law.  I  then  expressed  to  him  the  difference  of  our  expec- 
tations from  the  reality.  He  remained  until  after  twelve 
o'clock,  when  I  went  to  the  Little  Osage  village,  and  was 
received  with  great  friendship  by  the  chief.  Remained  all 
night  at  the  house  of  Tuttasuggy.     Took  the  census."' 

A7/£^.  26tlL.  Rose  early  and  found  my  friends  in  council, 
which  was  merely  relative  to   our  horses.     The  chief  then 

**  This  census  of  the  Grand  Osage  village  was  contained  in  a  letter  which  in 
the  orig.  ed.  formed  Doc.  No.  12  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  2,  being  a  folded  t.il)le 
opp.  p.  52,  with  a  tabular  "recapitulation"  on  p.  53.  The  matter  is  given 
beyond. 


392  ARRANGING   FOR  DEPARTURE. 

declared  their  determination  to  me,  and  that  he  himself 
gave  me  one  horse,  and  lent  me  eight  more  to  carry  our  bag- 
gage to  the  Pawnees.  Sold  the  old  batteau  for  $iOO  in 
merchandise,  which  I  conceived  infinitely  preferable  to  leav- 
ing her  to  the  uncertain  safeguard  of  the  Indians.  About 
this  time  we  received  the  news  that  the  party  of  Potowato- 
mies  were  discovered  to  be  near  the  towns.  I  gave  them 
the  best  advice  I  was  capable  of  giving,  and  then  returned 
to  our  camp. 

Att^.  2-jth.  Spent  in  arranging  our  baggage  for  the 
horses.  Received  four  horses  from  the  Little  Village  and 
two  from  the  Big  Village.  In  the  evening  Lieutenant  Wil- 
kinson rode  to  the  Grand  Village.  I  observed  two  immer- 
sions of  Jupiter's  satellites. 

Aug.  28th.  Writing  to  the  secretary  at  war  and  the  gen- 
eral, and  making  arrangements  for  our  departure.  Visited 
by  Wind  and  Sans  Oreille. 

Aug.  2gth.  Forenoon  writing  letters.  In  the  afternoon 
Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  went  to  the  Grand  Village,  at 
which  we  saw  the  great  medicine  dance.  Remained  at  the 
village  all  night. 

Aug.  joth.  Returned  to  the  camp  after  settling  all  my 
affairs  at  the  town.  Sealed  up  our  dispatches  and  sent  off 
the  general's  express."'  In  the  afternoon  we  were  visited 
by  the  principal  men  of  the  Little  Village  and  the  chief,  to 
whom  I  presented  a  flag,  and  made  the  donations  which  I 
conceived  requisite  to  the  different  Indians,  on  account  of 
horses,  etc. 

Sunday,  Aug.  Jist.  Arranging  our  packs  and  loading  our 
horses,  in  order  to  fit  our  loads,  as  we  expected  to  march  on 
the  morrow.     Up  late  writing  letters. 

Sc/>L  1st.  Struck  our  tents  early  in  the  morning,  and 
commenced  loading  our  horses.  We  now  discovered  that 
an  Indian    had  stolen  a  large  black  horse  which  Cheveux 

*'  Three  letters  frnm  Pike  to  Wilkinson  which  went  by  this  express  formed 
Docs.  Nos.  10,  II,  12  of  App.  to  Pt.  2.  One  of  them  is  dated  from  "  Camp 
Independence,"  by  which  we  learn  the  name  Pike  gave  his  station  :  see  beyond. 


CAMP  INDEPENDENCE   EVACUATED.  393 

Blanche  had  presented  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson.  I  mounted 
a  horse  to  pursue  him  ;  but  the  interpreter  sent  to  town,  and 
the  chief's  wife  sent  another  in  its  place.  We  left  the  place 
about  twelve  o'clock  with  15  loaded  horses,"  our  party  con- 
sisting of  two  lieutenants,  one  doctor,  two  sergeants,  one 
corporal,  15  privates,  two  interpreters,  three  Pawnees,  and 
four  chiefs  of  the  Grand  Osage,  amounting  in  all  to  30  war- 
riors and  one  woman.  We  crossed  the  Grand  Osage  fork 
and  a  prairie  N.  80°  W.  five  miles  to  the  fork  of  the  Little 
Osage."  Joined  by  Sans  Oreille  and  seven  Little  Osage,  all 
of  whom  I  equipped  for  the  march.     Distance  eight  miles. 

Sept.  2d.  Marched  at  six  o'clock.  Halted  at  ten  o'clock 
and  two  o'clock  on  the  side  of  the  creek  [Little  Osage  river], 
our  route  having  been  all  the  time  on  its  borders.  Whilst 
there  I  was  informed  by  a  young  Indian  that  Mr.  C.  Chou- 
teau had  arrived  at  the  towns.  I  conceived  it  proper  for  me 
to  return,  which  I  did,  accompanied  by  Baroney,  first  to  the 
Little  Village  ;  whence  we  were  accompanied  by  Wind  to 
the  Big  Village,  where  we  remained  all  night  at  the  lodge  of 
Cheveux  Blanche.  Mr.  Chouteau  gave  us  all  the  news, 
after  which  I  scrawled  a  letter  to  the  general  and  my  friends. 

Sept.jd.  Rose  early,  and  went  to  the  Little  Village  to 
breakfast.  After  giving  my  letters  to  Mr.  Henry,  and  ar- 
ranging my  affairs,  we   proceeded,  and  overtook  our  party 

^'  So  far  as  the  white  men  are  concerned,  the  party  is  identical  with  that  which 
left  Belle  Fontaine  (see  the  roster,  pp.  35S-360),  excepting  Kennerman,  deserted, 
which  reduced  the  privates  from  16  to  15,  and  further  excepting  the  additional 
interpreter,  one  Noel  alias  Maugraine.  (Mr.  George  Henry,  who  is  left  here, 
was  engaged  after  the  start,  and  therefore  does  not  affect  this  count.) 

^'  By  "  Grand  Osage  fork  "  Pike  means  the  stream  on  which  was  the  Grand 
Osage  village,  ?.  e..  Little  Osage  r.  I!y  "  fork  of  the  Little  Osage  "  his  actual 
implication  is  Marmiton  r. ,  near  which  was  the  Little  Osage  village — though  the 
phrase  happens  to  he  verbally  applicable,  as  the  Marmiton  is  the  fork  of  the 
Little  Osage  r.  Pike's  course  "  N.  80°  W."  at  the  start  would  seem  to  conflict 
with  the  dot-line  on  his  map  ;  but  this  is  simply  due  to  faulty  projection  of  the 
streams  :  see  next  note.  Observe  also  that  the  course  of  Sept.  1st  is  simply  a 
swing-around  to  the  mouth  of  the  Marmiton,  whence  Pike  revisits  the  Grand 
Osage  village.  There  is  no  camp-mark  for  this  day  ;  the  first  -\-  set  is  camp  of 
the  expedition  of  Sept.  2d,  before  Pike  had  rejoined  his  party. 


394  OVERLAND    UP  THE    LITTLE   OSAGE. 

at  two  o'clock.  They  had  left  their  first  camp  about  four 
miles.  Our  horses  being  much  fatigued,  we  concluded  to 
remain  all  night.  Sent  out  our  red  and  white  hunters,  all 
of  whom  only  killed  two  turkeys.     Distance  four  miles." 

Sept.  4th.  When  about  to  march  in  the  morning  one  of 
our  horses  was  missing  ;  we  left  Sans  Oreille,  with  the  two 
Pawnees,  to  search  for  him,  and  proceeded  till  about  nine 
o'clock ;  stopped  until  twelve  o'clock,  and  then  marched. 
In  about  half  an  hour  I  was  overtaken  and  informed  that 
Sans  Oreille  had  not  been  able  to  find  our  horse ;  on  which 
we  encamped,  and  sent  two  horses  back  for  the  load.  One 
of  the  Indians,  being  jealous  of  his  wife,  sent  her  back  to 
the  village.  After  making  the  necessary  notes.  Dr.  Robin- 
son and  myself  took  our  horses  and  followed  the  course 
of  a  little  stream  until    we   arrived   at  the    Grand  "    river, 

''"  Which  the  party  had  made  on  the  3d  before  Pike  joined  tliem.  Their 
camp  of  the  2d  is  the  first  one  marked  on  the  map,  and  this  of  the  3d  is  the 
second  one  so  marked.  This  we  know  from  the  position  marked  for  the  6th, 
just  over  the  divide,  and  three  camps  ahead  of  this  of  the  3d.  Pike  is  now  first 
fairly  en  route.  The  faulty  projection  of  his  map  makes  him  seem  to  go  E.  of 
S.  till  the  6th,  and  then  turn  \V.  abruptly.  The  course  of  the  Little  Osage  is 
practically  from  W.  to  E.,  and  Pike  ascends  it  the  whole  way,  having  it  at 
a  considerable  distance  to  his  ri<;ht.  His  trail  is  over  the  prairie  between  the 
Little  Osage  and  Marmiton  rivers.  This  is  to  be  particularly  noted,  as  some 
have  vaguely  supposed  Pike  "  followed  up  the  Osage  river,";.  <•.,  the  main 
Osage  (Pike's  "North  fork "),  and  then  wondered  how  he  came  where  we 
presently  find  him.  In  fact,  he  goes  almost  due  W.  from  fttissouri  over  into 
Kans.is.  Camp  of  the  3d  was  in  the  vicinity  of  the  present  town  of  Little 
Os.age.  Gregg's  m.ip,  on  which  Pike's  trail  is  traced  for  the  most  part  with  all 
the  accuracy  that  the  small  scale  .allows,  starts  him  into  Kansas  too  far  S. — a 
good  way  S.  of  Fort  Scott,  which  is  correctly  located  on  the  Marmiton. 

"  Misleading,  at  first  sight  ;  but  "  Grand  river"  here  means  th.at  stream  on 
which  was  the  Grand  Osage  village.  Pike  and  Robinstm  .simply  took  an 
excursion  of  6  m.  to  the  Little  Osage  and  back  to  camp,  supposed  to  be  13  m. 
from  that  of  the  3d.  It  was  cimsider.ably  past  Rinchart,  and  prob.ibly  in  the 
vicinity  of  Hoover,  a  pl.ice  2  m.  E.  of  the  intcr-Statc  line  ;  or  perhaps  just  over 
this  boundary,  which  here  runs  on  a  meridian  of  longitude  (about  94°  37'). 
This  vicinity  is  notable  as  the  scene  of  the  r.iid  of  old  John  P.rown  in  Dec,  1859, 
when  this  exlraordinarj'  compound  of  saint  and  sinner,  whose  prophetic  visions 
of  the  coming  struggle  had  startling  distinctness,  killed  a  man  and  stole  some 
negroes  and  horses.  Pike  has  entered  or  will  immediately  enter  the  N.  E. 
portion  of  Bourbon  Co.,  Kas.,  in  the  vicinity  of  places  called  Ilammoml,  Eulton, 


FROM   MISSOURI   INTO   KANSAS.  395 

which  was  distant  about  six  miles.  We  here  found  a  most 
delightful  basin  of  water,  of  25  paces'  diameter  and  about 
100  in  circumference,  in  which  we  bathed  ;  found  it  deep 
and  delightfully  pleasant.  Nature  scarcely  ever  formed  a 
more  beautiful  place  for  a  farm.  We  returned  to  camp  about 
dusk,  when  I  was  informed  that  some  of  the  Indians  liad 
been  dreaming  and  wished  to  return.  Killed  one  deer,  one 
turkey,  one  raccoon.  Distance  [made  by  the  main  party  ]i3 
miles. 

and  Darnesville.  The  two  former  of  these  are  on  the  Kansas  City,  Fort 
Scott,  and  Gulf  R.  R.  I  suppose  Pike  to  be  about  10  m.  N.  N.  E.  of  Fort 
Scott,  the  county  seat  of  Bourbon.  This  is  a  well-Iinown  city,  on  Marmiton  r. , 
at  the  point  where  Mill  cr.  falls  in.  Its  military  name  is  a  legacy  from  former 
days,  the  fort  having  been  built  in  1S42  ;  pop.  now  about  12,000. 

From  the  present  station  we  have  to  trail  Pike  clear  across  Kansas  to  a  point 
on  the  Republican  Fork  of  the  Kansas  r.,  just  over  the  middle  of  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  State.  This  is  not  e.isy.  It  would  be  impossible  to  do  so 
with  precision,  had  we  only  the  slender  thread  of  te.\t  to  guide  us.  His  Indians 
took  him  a  roundabout  way  by  the  Smoky  Hill  r.  Tlie  whole  country  is  flat, 
with  a  complicated  river-system  ;  Pike  cuts  through  it,  incessantly  crossing  creeks 
and  rivers,  not  one  of  which  does  he  follow  for  any  considerable  distance  after 
he  leaves  the  Osage  basin.  The  names  of  the  many  small  towns  and  stations, 
as  well  as  of  the  small  streams,  will  be  recognized  by  few  non-residents. 
Fortunately  we  have  the  trace  dotted  on  his  map,  and  though  this  is  far  out  of 
drawing  for  absolute  geography,  its  relative  positions  are  recognizable  for  the 
most  part.  I  am  satislied  tliat  the  course  I  lay  down  for  Pike  is  true  to  his  route 
in  all  its  main  features.  Tlie  whole  of  this  Kansan  route  would  be  in  the  Mis- 
sourian  watershed,  were  it  not  for  the  nortliward  extension  of  the  Arkansan  basin 
in  the  drainage  of  the  Neosho  and  Vermilion  rivers.  This  Pike  enters  as  soon 
as  he  leaves  the  Osage  basin,  crosses,  and  quits  before  reaching  the  Smoky  Hill  : 
see  the  two  places  legended  "  Dividing  Ridge,"  etc.,  on  his  map.  If  we  sup- 
pose, what  I  see  no  reason  to  question,  that  his  camp-marks  are  all  right,  his 
marches  of  Sept.  5th  to  17th  may  be  summarized  as  follows  :  Sept.  5th,  further 
up  Little  Osage  r. ;  6th,  over  divide  to  Arkansan  waters  of  the  Neosho  r. ;  7th, 
approaching  the  Neoslio  ;  8th,  across  this  river  :  gth,  further  along  S.  of  it ; 
loth,  across  subdivide  of  Vermilion  river  basin  ;  nth,  heading  this  nver,  and 
across  subdivide  into  Neosho  basin  again  ;  12th,  across  Cottonwood  fork  of  the 
Neosho  ;  14th,  further  along  this  fork  ;  15th,  across  divide  from  these  Arkansan 
to  Missourian  w.iters  again  ;  lOth,  nearing  Smoky  Hill  r.;  17th,  across  this  river. 
(Total  distance  from  the  Osage  villages  about  210  m.,  by  Pilce's  mileages  of  Sept. 
Ist-I7th  about  250  m.)  The  counties  crossed  are  Bourbon,  Allen,  Woodson, 
Coffey,  Lyon,  Chase,  Marion,  Dickinson,  and  Saline.  Further  details  in 
following  notes. 


396  STILL   IN   THE   OSAGE   BASIN. 

Sept.  5th.  In  the  morning  our  Little  Osage  all  came  to 
a  determination  to  return,  and,  much  to  my  surprise.  Sans 
Oreille  among  the  rest.  I  had  given  an  order  on  the  chiefs 
for  the  lost  horse  to  be  delivered  to  Sans  Oreille's  wife,  pre- 
viously to  my  knowing  that  he  was  going  back ;  but  took 
from  him  his  gun,  and  the  guns  from  all  the  others  also. 

In  about  five  miles  we  struck  a  beautiful  hill,  which  bears 
south  on  the  prairie  ;  its  elevation  I  suppose  to  be  100  feet. 
From  its  summit  the  view  is  sublime  to  the  east  and  south- 
east. We  waited  on  this  hill  to  breakfast,  and  had  to  send 
two  miles  for  water.  Killed  a  deer  on  the  rise,  which  was 
soon  roasting  before  the  fire.  Here  another  Indian  wished 
to  return  and  take  his  horse  with  him  ;  which,  as  we  had  so 
few,  I  could  not  allow,  for  he  had  already  received  a  gun 
for  the  use  of  his  horse.  I  told  him  he  might  return,  but 
his  horse  would  go  to  the  Pawnees. 

We  marched,  leaving  the  Osage  trace,  which  we  had 
hitherto  followed,  and  crossed  the  hills  to  a  creek  that  was 
almost  dry.  Descended  it  to  the  main  [Little  Osage]  river, 
where  we  dined  [vicinity  of  Harding].  The  discontented 
Indian  came  up,  and  put  on  an  air  of  satisfaction  and 
content. 

We  again  marched  about  six  miles  further,  and  encamped 
at  the  head  of  a  small  creek,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  water. 
Distance  19  miles  [approaching  Xenia,  Bourbon  Co.,  Kas."'*]. 

Sept.  6th.  We  marched  at  half  past  six  o'clock,  and  ar- 
rived at  a  large  fork  of  the  Little  Osage  river,  where  we 

'-  Tlie  whole  of  this  way  is  W.  up  along  the  S.  side  of  the  Little  Osage, 
for  the  most  part  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  river,  which  here  has  a 
northward  convexity.  But  for  some  miles  after  leaving  Camp  Independence, 
Pike  must  have  kept  jiretty  close  to  the  south  side  of  the  Little  Osage,  to  avoid 
the  unnumbered  mounds  into  which  the  country  further  to  his  left  is  broken. 
The  hill  to  which  I'ike  came  in  the  forenoon  represents  a  rise  from  the  general 
750-foot  level  hitherto  traveled  to  about  I, too  feet.  From  its  southern  slopes. 
Mill  and  Wolverine  creeks  gather  to  flow  into  the  Marmiton  at  and  near 
Fort  Scott ;  while  from  the  other  side  some  small  nms  seek  the  Little  Osage. 
Camp  is  in  Bourbon  Co.,  somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of  Xenia,  Zenia,  or  Hay, 
a  small  place  near  a  branch  of  the  Little  Osage. 


OVER  THE   DIVIDE   TO   ARKANSAN  WATERS.  397 

breakfasted  [vicinity  of  Xenia].  In  the  holes  of  the  creek 
we  discovered  many  fish,  which,  from  the  stripes  on  their 
belhes  and  their  spots,  I  supposed  to  be  trout  and  bass ; 
they  were  12  inches  long.  This  brought  to  mind  the  ne- 
cessity of  a  net,  which  would  have  frequently  afforded  sub- 
sistence to  the  whole  party.  We  halted  at  one  o'clock  and 
remained  until  four  o'clock.  Being  told  that  we  could  not 
arrive  at  any  water,  we  here  filled  our  vessels.  At  five 
o'clock  arrived  at  the  dividing  ridge,  between  the  waters  of 
the  Osage  and  the  Arkansaw,  alias  White  river,"  the  dry 
branches  of  which  interlock  within  20  yards  of  each  other. 
The  prospect  from  the  dividing  ridge  to  the  east  and  south- 
east is  sublime.  The  prairie  rising  and  falling  in  regular 
swells,  as  far  as  the  sight  can  extend,  produces  a  very  beau- 
tiful appearance.  We  left  our  course,  and  struck  down  to 
the  southwest  on  a  small  [tributary  of  Elm]  creek,  or 
rather  a  puddle  of  water.  Killed  one  deer.  Distance  20 
miles. 

Sunday,  Sept.  jth.     We  left  this  at  half  past  six  o'clock, 

"  Pike  does  not  mean  that  the  Arkansaw  r.  itself  is  otherwise  called  White  r., 
but  the  waters  of  the  Arkansaw  River  basin  he  has  reached  are  those  of  a  river 
called  the  White,  which  is  perfectly  true.  He  elsewhere  calls  this  Grand  r.  He 
also  discusses  wliether  this  White  r.  be  a  tributary  of  the  Arkansaw  or  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  comes  to  the  latter  erroneous  conclusion.  This  White  or 
Grand  r.  of  Pike  is  the  Neosho  ;  a  large  stream  which  waters  much  of  south- 
eastern Kansas,  leaves  the  State  in  Cherokee  Co.,  enters  Indian  Territory,  and 
falls  into  the  Arkansaw  on  the  boundary  between  the  Cherokees'  and  the 
Creeks'  country.  Its  general  course  is  S.  E.,  then  S.  Pike  lays  it  down  pretty 
well  on  his  map,  by  the  name  of  Grand  r. ,  and  I  find  it  so  charted  on  various 
modern  maps.  Pike  runs  it  into  the  Arkansaw  all  right,  and  makes  its  Cotton- 
wood fork  the  main  stream,  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  little  creek  he  traces  for 
the  other  fork  ;  but  there  is  not  much  difference  in  the  two  streams,  which  unite 
in  Lyon  Co.  some  8  m.  below  Emporia.  From  the  vicinity  of  Xenia,  in  Bourbon 
Co.,  Pike  has  to-day  continued  about  W.,  by  or  near  the  station  Bayard  of  the 
Mo.,  Kas.,  and  Tex.  R.  R.,  in  Allen  Co.  Having  thus  headed  all  Osage  (Mis- 
sourian)  waters,  he  strikes  and  crosses  the  divide,  and  camps  on  the  head  of  a 
small  tributjiry  of  Elm  cr.,  a  branch  of  tlie  Neosho  (Arkansan  waters).  I 
suppose  his  camp  to  be  at  a  point  about  equidistant  from  Bayard  and  two  other 
places  called  respectively  La  Harpe  and  Wise — perhaps  rather  Bayard,  La 
Harpe,  and  Morantown. 


398  THE   NEOSHO   RIVER. 

before  which  we  had  a  difficulty  with  the  son  of  the  chief, 
which  was  accommodated.  At  nine  o'clock  we  came  on  a 
large  fork  [of  Elm  crock]  and  stopped  for  breakfast.  Pro- 
ceeded on  and  encamped  on  a  fine  stream  [Deer  creek  ?], 
where  we  swam  our  horses  and  bathed  ourselves.  Killed 
four  deer.     Distance  15  miles."' 

Sept.  8th.  Marched  early,  and  arrived  at  a  grand  fork 
of  the  White  river."  The  Indians  were  all  discontented  ; 
we  had  taken  the  wrong  ford  ;  but,  as  they  were  dispersed 
through  the  woods,  we  could  not  be  governed  by  their 
movements.  Previously  to  our  leaving  the  camp,  the  son 
of  Cheveux  Blanche  proposed  returning,  and  offered  no 
other  reason  than  that  he  felt  too  lazy  to  perform  the  route. 
The  reason  I  offered  to  prevent  his  going  was  ineffectual, 
and  he  departed  with  his  hunter,  who  deprived  us  of  one 
horse.  His  return  left  us  without  any  chief  or  man  of  con- 
sideration, except  the  son  of  Belle  Oiseau,  who  was  but  a 
lad.     The  former  appeared  to  be  a  discontented  young  fel- 

"  The  two  btreams  concerned  in  Pike's  approach  to  the  Neosho  are  Ehii  and 
Deer  creeks.  Elm  is  the  large  forked  one  which  falls  in  close  below  lola, 
county  seat  of  Allen.  Doer  cr.  is  the  next  above,  falling  in  about  4  m.  above 
Elm  cr.  Pike's  maj)  indicates  that,  after  jiassing  some  insignificant  heads  of 
Elm  cr.,  he  got  into  its  forks,  then  crossed  its  north  branch  near  lola,  and 
camped  on  Deer  cr. ,  very  near  tlie  junction  of  this  willi  tlie  Neosho.  I  do  not 
know  whether  horses  can  swim  in  Deer  cr. ;  if  not,  the  only  alternative  stream 
would  be  the  Neosho  itself.  But  the  map  sets  Pike  on  tlie  east  branch  of 
Deer  cr.,  and  there  I  leave  him. 

"  The  Neosho,  Neozho,  or  Neocho  r.  "  A  grand  fork  of  the  White  river  "  is 
ambiguous  ;  but  becomes  intelligible  if  we  remember  that  he  has  just  spoken  of 
the  "  Arkansaw,  alias  White  river."  Pike's  ideas  of  what  he  calls  "  White  "  and 
"  Grand  "  r.  were  not  clear.  There  is  no  stream  in  his  present  vicinity  large 
enough  to  be  dignified  .as  the  "  gr.ind  fork  "  of  the  Neosho  itself;  we  must 
understand  him  to  mean  the  Neosho,  as  being  itself  a  grand  fork  of  whatever 
he  meant  by  "  White  "  r.  The  Neosho  was  long  and  often  called  Grand  r.; 
"Neosho  or  Grand  R."  is  lettered  on  Gregg's  map.  Pike  never  says  where 
he  crossed  the  Neosho,  nor  in  fact  does  he  inform  us  that  he  ever  crossed 
it — unless  it  was  when  he  swam  his  horses.  But  that  was  on  the  7th.  How- 
ever these  uncertainties  be  regarded,  two  facts  are  certain :  Pike  was  across 
the  Neosho  on  the  8th,  and  he  crossed  it  between  lola  and  the  town  of  Neosho 
Falls,  Woodson  Co.  I  think  the  crossing  was  a  little  above  the  mouth  of 
Deer  cr. 


CROSSING  NEOSHO   TRIBUTARIES.  399 

low,  filled  with  self-pride  ;  he  certainly  should  have  consid- 
ered it  as  an  honor  to  be  sent  on  so  respectable  an  embassy 
as  he  was.  Another  Indian,  who  owned  one  of  our  horses, 
wished  to  return  with  him,  which  was  positively  refused 
him  ;  but  fearing  he  might  steal  him,  I  contented  him  with 
a  present.  We  marched,  and  made  the  second  branch 
[North  Big  creek],  crossing  one  prairie  12  miles,  in  which 
we  suffered  much  with  drought.     Distance  22  miles." 

Sept.  gth.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  and  struck  a  large 
[Eagle]  creek  at  1 1  miles'  distance.  On  holding  a  council, 
it  was  determined  to  ascend  this  creek  to  the  highest  point 
of  water,  and  strike  across  to  a  large  river  of  the  Arkan- 
saw  [watershed].  We  ascended  4j4  miles,  and  encamped. 
Killed  one  cabrie  [antelope,  Antilocapra  avicricaiia\  two 
deer,  and  two  turkeys.     Distance  12  miles." 

"  West  for  a  few  miles,  then  about  northwest,  up  along  the  Neosho,  but  at 
several  miles'  distance  from  that  river,  on  the  dry  prairie,  and  passing  from 
Woodson  into  Coffey  Co.  As  to  the  "second  branch"  on  which  is  camp  : 
Pike  charts  three  streams  passed  to-day,  running  to  his  right  into  the  Neosho, 
and  marks  his  camp  on  the  third  one  of  these.  I  take  these  to  be  Turkey, 
South  Big,  and  North  Big  creeks ;  and  suppose  that  Pike  camped  on  the  last 
of  tliese.  It  is  true  that  these  .all  three  unite  in  one  before  falling  into  the 
Neosho  ;  but  Pike  passed  them  too  high  up  to  observe  their  connections. 
Turkey  cr.  is  practically  a  separate  one,  as  it  falls  into  Big  cr.  only  about 
one-quarter  of  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  it ;  and  the  connection  of  North  and 
South  creeks,  much  higher  up,  may  be  implied  in  his  speaking  of  the  "  second 
branch"  on  which  was  camp  (Turkey  cr.  then  answering  to  a  first  branch). 
The  single  mouth  of  the  three  streams  here  in  mention  falls  into  the  Neosho 
about  2  m.  west  of  Leroy.  If  it  seems  rather  a  stretch  to  get  Pike  some 
distance  up  North  Big  cr.  to-day,  it  may  be  remembered  that  the  jjlace  he 
crossed  the  Neosho  was  not  determined  with  precision  ;  and  that  we  have  to 
find  him  to-morrow,  at  11  miles'  distance,  on  a  large  creek  up  which  he  can  go 
over  the  divide  to  the  heads  of  Verdigris  r.     There  seems  to  be  no  alternative. 

"  The  total  of  12  m.  does  not  agree  with  the  text,  which  calls  for 
Ii+4>^  =  I5K.  Eagle  cr.  seems  to  have  been  struck  about  on  the  boundary 
between  Cotley  and  Lyon  cos.,  where  Four  Mile  cr.  falls  into  it.  It  is  a  con- 
siderable stream,  which  heads  in  the  divide  about  Olpe  (a  place  on  the  A.  T. 
and  S.  Fe  R.  R.),  is  increased  by  Harper,  Hoosier,  and  other  tributaries,  and 
runs  E.  into  the  Neosho  a  mile  and  a  half  above  Strawn  (a  place  on  the  Mo. 
Pac.  R.  R.).  To  reach  Eagle  cr.  from  North  Big  cr.  Pike  passed  opposite 
Burlington,  seat  of  ColTey  Co.,  several  miles  to  his  right,  and  headed  the  small 
Otter  cr.,  on  or  near  which  is  a  place  called  Patmos. 


400  HEADING   VERMILION   RIVER. 

Sept.  loth.  Marched  early.  Struck  and  passed  the 
divide  between  the  Grand  [Neosho]  river  and  the  Verdei^ris 
[or  Vermilion]  river.  Stopped  to  breakfast  on  a  small 
stream  of  the  latter;  after  which  we  marched  and  en- 
camped on  the  fourth  small  stream  [tributary  of  Vermilion 
river].     Killed  one  elk,  one  deer.     Distance  21  miles." 

Sept.  nth.  Passed  four  branches  and  over  high  hilly 
prairies.  Encamped  at  night  on  a  large  branch  of  Grand 
river.     Killed  one  cabrie,   one   deer.      Distance   17  miles.'"" 

Sept.  i2th.  Commenced  our  march  at  seven  o'clock. 
Passed  very  ruff  [rough]   flint  hills.     My  feet  blistered  and 

'*  It  may  not  be  jiossible  to  decide  wliich  of  the  several  branches  of  Eagle  cr. 
Pike  went  up  to  the  divide.  To  send  him  up  the  main  branch,  past  Olpe,  agrees 
best  with  his  21  m.  to-day  ;  but  in  that  case  he  must  have  breakfasted  late. 
There  is  a  sharp  elbow  in  his  dotted  trail,  which  would  seem  to  indicate  that 
he  made  a  turn  from  his  former  course  over  the  divide.  Aside  from  any  ques- 
tions of  detail,  which  perhaps  could  not  be  decided  even  by  a  resident  of  the 
region  traversed,  we  have  Pike  safe  on  the  headwaters  of  Vermilion  or  Ver- 
digris r.  (it  has  these  alternative  names  on  recent  maps).  It  heads  in  the  divide 
which  Pike  has  crossed,  by  numerous  small  tributaries,  several  of  which  Pike 
charts.  Among  them  are  Haldemand  and  Tate,  heading  opposite  branches  of 
Eagle  cr. ,  and  furtliur  on  Moon,  Rock,  Fawn,  and  Camp  creeks.  The  Verdi- 
gris is  of  a  size  smaller  than  the  Neosho,  W.  of  which  it  runs  in  an  approxi- 
mately parallel  course  ;  it  leaves  Kansas  through  Montgomery  Co.,  enters 
Indian  Territory',  and  in  the  country  of  the  Creek  Indians  falls  into  the  -Arkansaw 
8  ni.  above  the  moutli  of  the  Neosho.  Pike  lays  it  down  well,  especially  the 
fan-shaped  leash  of  branches  in  which  it  heads,  but  nins  it  into  the  Arkaiisaw  in 
common  with  the  Neosho.  The  Verdigris  has  of  course  its  proper  basin  or 
drainage  within  tlie  more  general  watershed  of  the  Neosho  and  other  Arkansan 
as  distinguished  from  Missourian  waters.  The  rim  of  this  basin  is  the  divide 
Pike  crosses  over  to-day.  He  camps  on  one  of  the  small  headwaters,  probably 
Fawn  or  Camp  cr.,  in  the  close  vicinity  of  the  places  called  Elco  and  Verdigris. 

"  Pike  has  headed  Verdigris  r. ,  and  recrossed  the  brim  of  its  basin  into  the 
Neosho  basin  again.  In  cutting  off  this  small  segment  of  the  Verdigris  basin 
he  passed  from  Lyon  into  Chase  Co.,  "over  high  hilly  prairies,"  «'.  e.,  the 
divide,  and  continued  westward  till  he  struck  "a  large  branch  of  Grand  r." 
We  discover  later  that  Pike  takes  Cottonwood  r.  to  be  the  main  Grand,  i.  <■. , 
Neosho  r.,  which  I  do  not  see  that  it  is  not,  though  the  other  one  retains  the 
name  of  Neosho  above  their  confluence.  The  stream  he  strikes  is  the  S.  fork 
of  Cottonwood  r.  This  heads  in  the  same  hilly  country,  by  tributaries  known 
as  Little  Cedar,  Thurman,  and  Mercer  creeks,  in  relation  or  opposition  to 
the  uttermost  sources  of  Verdigris  r.,  and  flows  N.  to  fall  into  the  main  Cotton- 
wood 4  m.  below  Cottonwood   Falls,   county  seat  of  Chase.     Pike   probably 


ON    COTTONWOOD    FORK   OF   NEOSHO   RIVER.  401 

very  sore.  I  stood  on  a  hill,  and  in  one  view  below  me 
saw  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  cabrie,  and  panthers.  Encamped  on 
the  main  [Cottonwood]  branch  of  Grand  [Neosho]  river, 
which  had  very  steep  banks  and  was  deep.  Dr.  Robinson, 
Bradley,  and  Baroney  arrived  after  dusk,  having  killed  three 
buffalo,  which,  with  one  I  killed,  and  two  by  the  Indians, 
made  six;  the  Indians  alleging  it  was  the  Kans'  hunting 
ground,  therefore  they  would  destroy  all  the  game  they 
possibly  could.     Distance  iS  miles." 

Sept.  ijth.     Late   in    marching,  it  having   every  appear- 
ance of  rain.     Halted  to  dine  on  a  branch  of  Grand  river. 

came  on  this  stream  somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of  Baker  or  Crocker  cr. ,  between 
places  called  Matfield  Green  and  Bazar. 

Cottonwood  "  creek  "  was  originally  so  named  at  the  point  where  it  was 
struck  on  the  old  Santa  Fe  caravan  road,  and  because  it  showed  the  first  trees 
of  that  kind  to  be  found  in  traveling  westward  on  that  route.  The  crossing  was 
at  or  near  present  town  of  Durham,  Marion  Co.  It  was  some  time  before  the 
true  connection  of  the  Cottonwood  with  the  Neosho  was  made  out.  At 
Council  Grove  the  traders  knew  they  were  on  a  head  of  the  Neosho  or  Grand  r., 
though  they  called  it  Council  Grove  cr.  They  kept  on  W.  to  "  Diamond 
springs  "  (on  a  head  of  Six  Mile  or  present  Diamond  cr.),  and  thence  to  "  Lost 
spring"  on  their  "  Willow"  cr.  (a  head  of  present  Clear  cr.,  which  falls  into 
the  Cottonwood  at  Marion)  ;  the  next  stream  they  struck  being  this  Cotton- 
wood cr.,  at  or  near  Durham  :  see  a  note  beyond,  where  I  undertake,  perhaps 
rashly,  to  recover  the  old  caravan  road  in  terms  of  modem  geography. 

'"  If  Pike  bore  as  much  N.  of  W.  as  his  dotted  trail  seems  to  indicate,  the 
mileage  would  fetch  him  on  Cottonwood  r.  about  the  situation  of  Cedar  Grove 
and  Cedar  Point,  which  are  within  a  mile  or  two  of  each  other  and  of  the 
boundary  between  Chase  and  Marion  cos.,  and  about  6  m.  down  river  from 
Florence,  Marion  Co.  He  is  evidently  in  the  loop  which  the  Cottonwood 
makes  .S.  E.  from  Marion  to  Florence,  and  then  gradually  N.  E.  to  the  vicinity 
of  Cottonwood  Falls.  If  the  old  Kansas  Indian  trail  the  map  lays  down  could 
be  recovered  or  identified,  it  would  serve  to  locate  him  still  more  precisely. 
He  crosses  the  Cottonwood  and  camps  on  its  left  bank.  If  we  attentively 
regard  the  camp-marks  of  the  12th  and  13th,  we  find  them  close  together,  N. 
of  the  Cottonwood,  S.  of  a  creek  flowing  E.,  and  W.  of  a  pair  of  creeks  flow- 
ing S.  These  requirements  are  fulfilled,  if  we  take  the  one  running  E.  to 
be  Middle  creek,  which  falls  in  by  Elmdale,  10  m.  below  Cedar  Grove  ;  and 
the  other  two,  those  that  fall  in  together  at  Marion,  12  m.  (direct)  above  Cedar 
Grove.  It  is  true  there  are  several  creeks  nearer,  on  the  same  side,  as  Silver, 
Bruno,  and  Martin,  but  these  are  all  smaller  than  such  as  Pike  usually  charts, 
and,  moreover,  he  could  not  go  his  g  m.  to-morrow  in  any  direction  without 
getting  beyond  them. 


402  CONTINUING   UP   THE   COTTONWOOD. 

Marched  again  at  half  past  two  o'clock,  and  halted  at  five, 
intendinsj  to  dispatch  Dr.  Robinson  and  one  of  our  Pawnees 
to  the  village  to-morrow.  Killed  six  buffalo,  one  elk,  and 
three  deer.     Distance  nine  miles." 

Sunday,  Sept.  i^th.  The  doctor  and  Frank,  a  young 
Pawnee,  marched  for  the  village  at  daylight ;  we  at  half 
past  six  o'clock.  Halted  at  one  o'clock.  On  the  march  we 
were  continually  passing  through  large  herds  of  buffalo, 
elk,  and  cabrie  ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  one  hunter  could 
support  200  men.  I  prevented  the  men  shooting  at  the 
game,  not  merely  because  of  the  scarcity  of  ammunition, 
but,  as  I  conceived,  the  laws  of  morality  forbid  it  also. 
Encamped  at  sunset  on  the  main  branch  [Cottonwood]  of 
White  river,  hitherto  called  Grand  river.  Killed  one  buffalo 
and  one  cabrie.     Distance  21  miles." 

Sept.  i^tli.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock  ;  passed  a  very 
large  Kans  encampment,  evacuated,  which  had  been  occu- 
pied last  summer.  Proceeded  on  to  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  waters  of  White  river  and  the  Kans  [more 
exactly,  from  basin  of  the  Cottonwood  to  that  of  the  Smoky 
Hill].  This  ridge  was  covered  with  a  layer  of  stone,  which 
was  strongly  impregnated  with  iron  ore,  and  on  the  W. 
side  of  said  ridge  we  found  spa  springs.  Halted  at  one 
o'clock,  very  much  against  the  inclination  of  the  Osage, 
who,  from  the  running  of  the  buffalo,  conceived  a  party  of 
Kans  to  be  near.     Killed  two  buffalo.     Distance  18  miles."' 

•'  Camp  in  the  close  vicinity  of  Marion,  se.it  of  the  county  of  that  name.  The 
Indian  trail  seems  to  have  run  past  or  through  Marion.  We  can  confidently 
locate  Pike  within  3  m.  of  the  town  on  the  night  of  the  13th  ;  and  Marion  thus 
furnishes  an  excellent  fixed  point  whence  to  trace  him  on  to  Smoky  Hill  r.  The 
two  streams  which  unite  at  Marion,  and  run  through  the  place  as  one,  are  called 
Brook  Luta  and  Clear  cr. 

"  Continuing  past  Marion,  up  the  Cottonwood,  which  he  has  to  his  left, 
Pike  camps  near  Durham,  Marion  Co.  This  town  is  on  the  river,  and  through 
it  runs  the  Chic,  Kas.  and  Neb.  R.  R.  The  route  seems  to  have  sheered  off 
from  the  river  a  little  to  the  right,  more  in  line  with  Brook  Luta  than  with 
the  Cottonwood  itself  :  see  next  note. 

"'  Passing  north  between  Cottonwood  r.  on  his  left  and  Brook  Luta  on  his  right, 
Pike  makes  the  divide  in  the  vicinity  of  Tampa,  Marion  Co.     This  is  a  village 


AND   HAVING   REGAINED   MISSOURIAN  WATERS.        403 

Srft.  i6th.  Marched  late,  and  in  about  4)4  miles'  dis- 
tance came  to  a  very  handsome  branch  of  water  [Hobbs 
branch  of  Gypsum  creek],  at  which  we  stopped  and  re- 
mained until  after  two  o'clock,  when  we  marched  and  crossed 
two  branches  [main  Gypsum  and  Stag  creeks].  Encamped 
on  a  third.  At  the  second  [Gypsum]  creek,  a  horse  was 
discovered  on  the  prairie,  when  Baroney  went  in  pursuit  of 
him  on  a  horse  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  but  arrived  at  our 
camp  without  success.     Distance  13  miles." 

on  the  head  of  Brook  Luta  ;  the  railroad  last  named  goes  through  it,  and  Pike 
crosses  the  line  of  this  railroad  between  Durham  and  Tampa.  He  is  flanking 
the  higher  hills  (1,500  feet  or  more)  in  which  the  main  Cottonwood  heads,  by 
leaving  them  to  the  left  or  W.  This  is  a  somewhat  roundabout  way  from 
the  vicinity  of  Durham  to  that  of  Bridgeport  on  the  Smoky  Hill,  where  Pike 
strikes  this  river  early  on  the  17th  ;  but  it  is  evident  that  he  did  not  go  straight 
between  these  points,  for  they  are  only  about  25  m.  fdirect)  apart,  and  we  have 
to  account  for  l84-l3-|-6=37  m.  on  the  15th,  l6th,  and  morning  of  the  17th. 
These  mileages  adjust  themselves  to  a  nicety  by  the  way  I  make  out.  I  siiii- 
pose  he  crossed  the  divide  between  Tampa  and  Kuhnbrook,  Marion  Co.,  thus 
passing  from  Arkansan  to  Missourian  waters,  as  he  says.  Kuhnbrook  is  a 
little  place  on  one  of  the  heads  of  the  large  Turkey  cr. ,  which  runs  N.  into  the 
Smoky  Hill  r.  opp.  Abilene.  Rhoades  is  the  next  place  on  this  branch  of 
Turkey  cr.,  .and  in  passing  to  its  vicinity  Pike  crosses  from  Marion  into  Dickin- 
son Co.  He  continues  on,  bearing  to  the  vicinity  of  Elmo  and  Banner.  These 
are  places  near  another  head  of  Turkey  cr. ,  and  both  on  the  Mo.  Pac.  R.  R.; 
they  are  within  a  mile  of  each  other.  Pike  keeps  on  a  piece,  westerly,  and  sets 
camp  in  the  vicinity  of  Carlton,  Dickinson  Co.  Carlton  is  between  the  two 
forks  of  Holland  cr. ,  next  W.  of  Turkey  cr. ,  with  which  Holland  runs  parallel 
to  fall  into  the  .Smoky  Hill  r.  opp.  Abilene.  Carleton  is  7  m.  due  E.  of 
Gypsum  City,  which  latter  is  on  a  creek  of  that  name  Pike  next  strikes. 

'■*  Pike  camps  on  a  branch  of  Gypsum  creek.  This  is  a  large  stream  which 
heads  in  close  relation  with  the  uttermost  sources  of  Cottonwood  r. ,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Canton,  McPherson  Co.,  and  flows  due  N.  into  the  Smoky  Hill, 
between  the  mouths  of  Solomon  and  Saline  rivers.  It  is  larger  than  either 
Turkey  or  Holland  cr.,  and  much  branched.  It  runs  about  h.alfway  between 
Holland  cr.  and  the  Smoky  Hill,  parallel  with  both  ;  for  the  latter,  having 
made  a  bold  sweep  from  the  W. ,  curves  N.  past  Lindsburg  and  Bridgeport  to 
Salina,  and  thence  E.  to  receive  6rst  the  Saline,  next  Gypsum,  and  then 
Solomon  r.  On  Gypsum  cr.  are  Chico  and  Gypsum  City,  10  and  12  m.  above 
its  mouth  ;  .and  Pike  strikes  it  a  few  miles  further  up  or  S.  of  these  towns. 
Pike  charts  its  headwaters  elaborately,  and  sets  his  camps  of  the  15th  and  i6th 
among  the  five  branches  he  lays  down.  Prob.aMy  one  of  these  should  be  taken 
for  Iltilland  cr. ;  the  other  four  arc  less  rasily  identified.      From  his  position  in  the 


404  SMOKY   HILL   RIVER  CROSSED. 

Sept.  lyth.  Marched  early  and  struck  the  main  S.  E. 
[Smoky  Hill]  branch  of  the  Kans  river  at  nine  o'clock  ;  it 
appeared  to  be  25  or  30  yards  wide,  and  is  navigable  in  the 
flood  seasons.  We  passed  it  six  miles  to  a  small  branch  to 
breakfast.  Game  getting  scarce,  our  provision  began  to  run 
low.  Marched  about  two  o'clock,  and  encamped  at  sun- 
down on  a  large  branch  [Mulberry  creek].  Killed  one 
buffalo.     Distance  21  miles." 

vicinity  of  Carlton  Pike  passes  \V.  from  Dickinson  into  Saline  Co.,  comes  first  to 
Hoblis  cr.,  next  upon  Gypsum  itself  and  Stag  cr.,  in  quick  succession  ;  crossing 
these  three  he  continues  W.  to  another  branch  of  Gypsum  cr. ,  namely,  that  one 
now  meandered  by  the  Mo.  Pac.  R.  R.  between  Gypsum  City  and  Bridgeport. 
He  camps  on  the  latter,  6  m.  E.  of  the  Smoky  Hill. 

65  "  \Ye  passed  it  six  miles  to  a  small  branch  to  breakfast "  is  a  dubious  phrase 
which  I  understand  to  mean  that  Pike  went  6  m.  to  a  small  branch  to  breakfast, 
and  then  crossed  the  Smoky  Hill  r.  at  once — at  nine  o'clock.  This  crossing 
was  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Bridgeport,  and  perhaps  at  the  very  place  the 
Council  Grove,  Smoky  Valley  and  Western  branch  of  the  Mo.  Pac.  R.  R.  crosses 
to  run  into  Bridgeport.  Two  insignificant  runs  fall  into  the  river  from  the 
east  within  3  ra.  below  Bridgeport  ;  the  first  of  them  is  named  Pawnee  cr. 
Crossing  the  river,  Pike  proceeds  up  it,  but  a  little  W.  of  N.,  and  bearing 
somewhat  away  from  it ;  he  passes  Dry  cr.,  which  lower  down  runs  through  the 
county  seat  Salina,  and  camps  on  Mulberry  cr. ,  2  or  3  m.  due  W.  of  that  city, 
and  about  the  same  distance  below  the  point  where  Spring  cr.  {.ills  into  Mul- 
berry. This  stream  skirts  north  of  the  city,  receives  Dry  cr.,  and  falls  into 
Saline  r.  a  mile  or  two  further.  Salina  is  a  large  place,  one  of  the  best  known 
in  the  State,  where  four  great  railroad  lines  meet — the  U.  P.,  Mo.  P.,  A.,  T. 
and  S.  F.,  and  C,  R.  I.  and  P.  Six  or  8  m.  due  W.  of  the  place  where  Pike 
crossed  the  river  are  the  Smoky  hills,  or  Smoky  Hill  Buttes,  celebrated  in  story 
if  not  in  song.  The  great  river  named  from  these  conspicuous  landmarks  is 
the  main  southern  fork  of  Kansas  r.,  as  the  Republican  is  the  northern.  Its 
uttermost  sources  are  in  Colorado.  Receiving  uncounted  tributaries  in  its 
long  course,  it  runs  E.  in  Kansas  through  Wallace,  Logan,  Gove,  Trego,  Ellis, 
Russell,  and  Ellsworth,  loops  S.  into  McPherson  and  out  again  N.  into  Saline 
Co.,  makes  an  elbow  at  Salina  and  continues  E.  through  Dickinson  into  Geary 
Co.,  where  it  joins  its  mate  between  Junction  City  and  Fort  Riley,  thus  com- 
posing the  Kansas.     Two  of  its  largest  branches  are  the  Saline  and  Solomon. 

This  finishes  the  first  section  of  Pike's  Kansas  route  from  the  Little  Osage  to 
S.alina.  The  rest  of  the  way  to  the  Pawnee  Republic  is  northward,  crossing  in 
succession  Saline  r.,  S.alt  cr. ,  Solomon  r.,  Buffalo  cr. ,  and  White  Rock  cr. , 
striking  the  Republican  r.  in  Webster  Co.,  Neb.,  near  the  S.  border  of  that  St.ate. 
The  distance  is  less  than  the  97  m.  Pike  m.ikcs  of  it.  His  map  is  extremely 
faulty  ;   he  seems  to  have  gone  aliout  N.  W.,  llunigh  his  actual  route  was  very 


SALINA   PASSED— SALINE   RIVER   CROSSED.  405 

Sept.  i8th.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour,  and  at  twelve 
o'clock  halted  at  a  large  branch  [Saline  river]  of  the  Kans 
[Smoky  Hill],  which  was  strongly  impregnated  with  salt. 
This  day  we  expected  the  people  of  the  [Pawnee]  village  to 
meet  us.  We  marched  again  at  four  o'clock.  Our  route 
being  over  a  continued  series  of  hills  and  hollows,  we  were 
until  eight  at  night  before  we  arrived  at  a  small  dry  branch 
[of  Covert  creek].  It  was  nearly  ten  o'clock  before  we 
found  any  water.  Commenced  raining  a  little  before  day. 
Distance  25  miles."' 

little  W.  of  N.  It  also  runs  Saline  and  Solomon  rivers  far  apart  into  the  Repub- 
lican, instead  of  the  Smoky  Hill,  magnifies  Salt  cr.  out  of  all  proportion,  and 
minimizes  both  Buffalo  and  White  Rock  cr. 

As  a  bit  of  authentic  history  which  may  interest  those  in  Salina  who  have 
reason  to  be  proud  of  the  growth  of  their  city  during  one  generation,  I  will 
transcribe  a  passage  from  my  own  field  notebook,  made  when  I  was  staging 
from  Leavenworth  to  Santa  Fe,  in  1864  :  "  Sunday,  May  2gth.  Left  Junc- 
tion City  and  came  to  a  place  called  Salina — three  houses  and  a  pig  stye." 

Fort  Riley,  as  above  mentioned,  was  begun  by  Major  Edmund  Augustus 
Ogden,  who  had  selected  the  site  and  was  occupied  with  the  work  when  he  died 
there  Aug.  3d,  1855,  in  the  epidemic  of  cholera  then  raging.  He  was  born  at 
Catskill,  N.  Y.,  Feb.  20th,  1810  ;  removed  to  Unadilla,  N.  Y.,  and  from  there 
entered  West  Point  July  ist,  1827  ;  he  became  second  lieutenant  of  the  ist  Inf., 
July  Ist,  1S31  ;  first  lieutenant,  Dec.  17th,  1836  ;  was  transferred  to  the  8th 
Inf.,  July  7th,  1838  ;  promoted  to  be  captain,  Dec.  Ist,  1839  ;  and  was  breveted 
major  for  meritorious  conduct.  His  first  duty  was  at  Prairie  du  Chien  ;  his 
marriage  with  Captain  Gustavus  Loomis'  daughter  Eliza,  at  Fort  Snelling,  is 
said  to  have  been  the  first  ceremony  of  the  kind  between  white  persons  in 
Minnesota  ;  he  served  faithfully  and  with  distinction  in  the  Black  Hawk, 
I'lnrida,  and  Mexican  wars,  and  for  many  years  discharged  arduous  and  respon- 
siljlc  duties  in  the  quartermaster  department.  For  several  years  immediately 
preceding  his  death  he  was  stationed  at  Fort  Leavenworth. 

'"Saline  r.,  distinctively  called  Great  or  Grand  S.aline,  has  been  already 
noted.  Pike  crosses  this,  and  proceeds  to  "a  small  dry  branch  "  of  the  next 
river,  to  camp  for  three  days.  This  river  is  the  one  he  calls  Little  Saline,  and 
is  now  known  as  Covert  or  Salt  cr.,  a  branch  of  Solomon  r.  which  falls  into 
the  Solomon  4  m.  below  Minneapolis,  Ottawa  Co.  Pike's  map  connects  it  cor- 
rectly, but  magnifies  its  size  ;  for  the  stream  which  he  passed  on  returning  from 
the  Pawnee  village,  and  which  he  lays  down  as  a  head  of  his  Little  Saline,  is 
a  br.inch  of  the  Great  Saline.  Pike  probalily  crossed  Saline  r.  in  the  vicinity  of 
Culver,  where  the  railroad  now  does,  then  soon  passing  from  Saline  into  Ottawa. 
The  small  liranch  of  Salt  cr.  on  which  he  camped  was  one  of  several  such  in  the 
vicinity  of  Ada. 


406  WEATHERBOUND— THE   MARCH   RESUMED. 

Sept.  igth.  It  having  commenced  raining  early,  we  se- 
cured our  baggage  and  pitched  our  tents.  The  rain  con- 
tinued without  any  intermission  the  whole  day,  during 
which  we  employed  ourselves  in  reading  the  Bible  and 
Pope's  Essays,  and  in  pricking  on  our  arms  with  India  ink 
some  characters,  which  will  frequently  bring  to  mind  our 
forlorn  and  dreary  situation,  as  well  as  the  happiest  days  of 
our  life.  In  the  rear  of  our  encampment  was  a  hill,  on 
which  there  was  a  large  rock,  where  the  Indians  kept  a  con- 
tinual sentinel,  as  I  imagine  to  apprise  them  of  the  approach 
of  any  party,  friends  or  foes,  as  well  as  to  see  if  they  could 
discover  any  game  on  the  prairies. 

Sept.  20th.  It  appearing  as  if  we  possibly  might  have  a 
clear  day,  I  ordered  our  baggage  spread  abroad  to  dry  ;  but 
it  shortly  after  clouded  up  and  commenced  raining.  The 
Osage  sentinel  discovered  a  buffalo  on  the  prairies ;  upon 
which  we  dispatched  a  hunter  on  horseback  in  pursuit  of 
him,  also  some  hunters  on  foot  ;  before  night  they  killed 
three  buffalo,  some  of  the  best  of  which  we  brought  in 
and  jerked  or  dried  by  the  fire.  It  continued  showery  until 
afternoon,  when  we  put  our  baggage  again  in  a  position  to 
dry,  and  remained  encamped.  The  detention  of  the  doctor 
and  our  Pawnee  ambassador  began  to  be  a  serious  matter 
of  consideration. 

Sunday,  Sept.  21st.  We  marched  at  eight  o'clock,  although 
there  was  every  appearance  of  rain,  and  at  eleven  o'clock 
passed  a  large  [Little  Saline  river  of  Pike,  now  Covert]  creek, 
remarkably  salt.  Stopped  at  one  o'clock  on  a  fresh  branch 
of  the  salt  creek.  Our  interpreter  having  killed  an  elk,  we 
sent  out  for  some  meat,  which  detained  us  so  late  that  I  con- 
cluded it  best  to  encamp  where  we  were,  in  preference  to 
running  the  ri.sk  of  finding  no  water.     Distance  10  miles. 

Lieutenant  Wilkin.son  was  attacked  with  a  severe  head- 
ache and  slight  fever.  One  of  my  men  had  been  attacked 
with  a  touch  of  the  pleurisy  on  the  i8th,  and  was  still  ill. 
We  were  informed  by  an  Osage  woman  that  two  of  the 
Indians  were  conspiring  to  desert  us  in  the  night   and  steal 


FEMALE   SPY — PAWNEE   NEWS.  407 

some  of  our  horses,  one  of  whom  was  her  husband.  We 
engaged  her  as  our  spy.  Thus  were  we  obliged  to  keep  our- 
selves on  our  guard  against  our  own  companions  and  fellow- 
travelers — men  of  a  nation  highly  favored  by  the  United 
States,  but  whom  I  believe  to  be  a  faithless  set  of  poltrons, 
incapable  of  a  great  and  generous  action.  Among  them, 
indeed,  there  may  be  some  exceptions. 

In  the  evening,  finding  that  the  two  Indians  above  men- 
tioned had  made  all  preparations  to  depart,  I  sent  for  one 
of  them,  who  owned  a  horse  and  had  received  a  gun  and 
other  property  for  his  hire,  and  told  him  "  I  knew  his  plans, 
and  that  if  he  was  disposed  to  desert,  I  should  take  care  to 
retain  his  horse  ;  that  as  for  himself,  he  might  leave  me  if 
he  pleased,  as  I  only  wanted  men  with  us."  He  replied 
"  that  he  was  a  man,  that  he  always  performed  his  prom- 
ises, that  he  had  never  said  he  would  return  ;  but  that  he 
would  follow  me  to  the  Pawnee  village,  which  he  intended 
to  do."  He  then  brought  his  baggage  and  put  it  under 
charge  of  the  sentinel,  and  slept  by  my  fire  ;  but  notwith- 
standing I  had  him  well  watched. 

Sept.  22d.  We  did  not  march  until  eight  o'clock,  owing 
to  the  indisposition  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson.  At  eleven 
waited  to  dine.  Light  mists  of  rain,  with  flying  clouds. 
We  marched  again  at  three  o'clock,  and  continued  our 
route  13  miles  to  the  first  branch  of  the  Republican 
I'^ork.  [?]  Met  a  Pawnee  hunter,  who  informed  us  that 
the  chief  had  left  the  village  the  day  after  the  doctor 
arrived,  with  50  or  60  horses  and  many  people,  and  had 
taken  his  course  to  the  north  of  our  route  ;  consequently 
we  had  missed  each  other.  He  likewise  informed  us  that 
the  Tetaus  [misprint  for  Tetans,  and  that  a  mistake  for 
letans,  i.  c,  Comanchcs]  had  recently  killed  six  Pawnees, 
the  Kans  had  stolen  some  horses,  and  a  party  of  300 
Spaniards  had  lately  been  as  far  as  the  Sabine ;  but  for 
what  purpose  was  unknown.     Distance  1 1  miles." 

"  An  error  is  here  evident,  and  I  stispect  some  confusion  of  the  dinry  of  the 
2lst  and  22d.    I.   "Distance  11  miles,"  for  the  whole  22d,  is  necessarily  wrong,  if 


408  SOLOMON  RIVER  CROSSED. 

Sept.  2jd.  Marched  early  and  passed  a  large  fork  of  the 
Kans  [/.  e.,  Smoky  Hill]  river,  which  I  [correctly]  suppose 
to  be  the  one  generally  called  Solomon's.  One  of  our 
horses  fell  into  the  water  and  wet  his  load.  Halted  at  ten 
o'clock  on  a  branch  of  this  fork.  We  marched  at  half  past 
one  o'clock,  and  encamped  at  sundown  on  a  stream  [Buffalo 
creek]  where  we  had  a  great  difficulty  to  find  water.  We 
were  overtaken  by  a  Pawnee,  who  encamped  with  us.  He 
offered  his  horse  for  our  use.     Distance  21  miles." 

Sefit.  2^th.  We  could  not  find  our  horses  until  late,  when 
we  marched.  Before  noon  met  Frank,  who  had  accom- 
panied Dr.  Robinson  to  the  village,  and  three  other  Pawnees, 
who  informed  us  that  the  chief  and  his  party  had  only 
arrived  at  the  village  yesterday,  and  had  dispatched  them 
out  in  search  of  us.  Before  three  o'clock  we  were  joined 
by  several  Pawnees ;  one  of  them  wore  a  scarlet  coat,  with 
a  small  medal  of  General  Washington,  and  a  Spanish  medal 
also.  We  encamped  at  sunset  on  a  middle-sized  branch 
[White  Rock  creek],  and  were  joined  by  several  Pawnees  in 
the  evening,  who  brought  us  some  buffalo  meat.     Here  we 

12  m.  were  made  in  the  afternoon,  and  this,  too,  after  marching  from  eight  to 
eleven  in  the  forenoon.  2.  Aside  from  the  fact  that  there  is  no  branch  of  the  Re- 
publican forl<  in  this  vicinity,  the  map  shows  that  Tike  did  not  reach  Solomon  r. 
till  the  23d,  and  the  text  of  that  day  confirms  this.  Camps  of  the  21st  and  22d 
were  both  in  the  space  traversed  between  Salt  cr.  and  Solomon  r.,  less  than  20 
m.  at  the  furthest.  3.  The  difficulty  disappears  if  for  "  12  miles,"  etc.,  of  the 
above  questionable  cl.iuse,  we  read  "  2  miles  to  the  first  branch  of  Solomon 
river  on  our  route."  This  would  set  Tike  on  one  of  the  small  creeks  that  fall 
into  the  right  bank  of  Solomon  r.  in  the  vicinity  of  Cdasco,  Simpson,  and  Ash- 
erville.  A  former  name  of  Solomon  r.  was  Ncpcholla,  used,  ^.  ^.,by  Gunni- 
son, P.  R.  R.  Rep.  II.  1S55,  p.  17.  C.apt.  J.  W.  Gunnison  came  to  the  mouth 
of  Solomon's  fork  July  6th,  1853,  from  Westport,  Mo.,  by  the  Wak.irusa  River 
route,  striking  the  Kansas  r.  at  Fort  Riley,  crossing  there,  and  continuing 
through  Abilene  ;  he  w.ts  en  route  to  the  great  bend  of  the  Arkansaw  by  the 
usual  Smoky  Hill  route. 

•'  Taking  I'ike  northward  across  Buffalo  cr.  I  suppose  this  was  crossed  some- 
where in  the  vicinity  of  Jamestown,  Republic  Co.  In  this  position  the  Repub- 
lican r.  itself  is  only  5  or  6  m.  to  his  right,  and  the  rest  of  the  journey  is  simply 
following  up  this  river  obliquely  on  about  a  N.  W.  course,  at  a  somewhat  in- 
creasing distance  from  it,  until  lie  nc.ars  it  to  .approach  the  village. 


APPROACHING   THE    PAWNEE    VILLAGE.  409 

saw  some  mules,  horses,  bridles,  and  blankets,  which  they 
obtained  of  the  Spaniards.  Few  only  had  breech  cloths, 
most  being  wrapped  in  buffalo  robes,  otherwise  quite  naked. 
Distance  18  miles."' 

Sept.  2Sth.  We  marched  at  a  good  hour,  and  in  about 
eight  miles  struck  a  very  large  road  on  which  the  Spanish 
troops  had  returned,  and  on  which  we  could  yet  discover 
the  grass  beaten  down  in  the  direction  which  they  went. 

When  we  arrived  within  about  three  miles  of  the  village, 
we  were  requested  to  remain,  as  the  ceremony  of  receiving 
the  Osage  into  the  towns  was  to  be  performed  here.  There 
was  a  small  circular  spot,  clear  of  grass,  before  which  the 
Osage  sat  down.  We  were  a  small  distance  in  advance  of 
the  Indians.  The  Pawnees  then  advanced  within  a  mile  of 
us,  halted,  divided  into  two  troops,  and  came  on  each  flank 
at  full  charge,  making  all  the  gestures  and  performing  the 
maneuvers  of  a  real  war  charge.  They  then  encircled  us 
around,  and  the  chief  advanced  in  the  center  and  gave  us 
his  hand  ;  his  name  was  Caracterish.  He  was  accompanied 
by  his  two  sons  and  a  chief  by  the  name  of  Iskatappe.  The 
Osage  were  still  seated ;  but  Belle  Oiscau  then  rose,  came 
forward  with  a  pipe,  and  presented  it  to  the  chief,  who  took 
a  whiff  or  two  from  it.  We  then  proceeded  ;  the  chief. 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  and  myself  in  front ;  my  sergeant,  on 
a  white  horse,  next  with  the  colors ;  then  our  horses  and 
baggage,  escorted  by  our  men,  with  the  Pawnees  on  each 
side,  running  races,  etc.  When  we  arrived  on  the  hill  over 
the  town  we  were  again  halted,  and  the  Osage  seated  in 
a  row ;  when  each  Pawnee  who  intended  so  to  do  presented 
them  with  a  horse  and  gave  a  pipe  to  smoke  to  the  Osage 
to  whom  he  had  made  the  present.     In  this  manner  were 

*'  To  White  Rock  cr.,  west  of  White  Rock,  a  town  on  the  creek  and  on  the 
boundary  between  Republic  and  Jewell  cos.  This  stream  runs  east  through 
these,  and  falls  into  the  Republican  r.  opposite  Republic  City.  In  getting  here, 
Pike  seems  by  his  map  to  have  crossed  several  small  streams  running  to  his 
left,  and  into  a  stream  he  nms  into  Solomon  r.  I  suppose  these  to  be  some 
branches  of  Marsh  cr.,  a  sluggish  tributary  of  Buffalo  cr.  from  the  N.  W. 


4IO  ON  THE   REPUBLICAN   RIVER. 

eight  liorses  given.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  then  proceeded 
with  the  party  to  the  [RepubHcan]  river  above  the  town, 
and  encamped.  I  went  up  to  our  camp  in  the  evening, 
having  a  young  Pawnee  with  me  loaded  with  corn  for  my 
men.  Distance  12  miles."  As  the  chief  had  invited  us  to 
his  lodge  to  eat,  we  thought  it  proper  for  one  to  go.  At 
the  lodge  he  gave  me  many  particulars  which  were  interest- 
ing to  us,  relative  to  the  late  visit  of  the  Spaniards. 

I  will  attempt  to  give  some  memoranda  of  this  expedition, 
which  was  the  most  important  ever  carried  on  from  the 
province  of  New  Mexico,  and  in  fact  the  only  one  directed 

■'"Finishing  the  jouniey  to  the  Pawnee  Republic  village,  whence  the  great 
river  on  which  it  was  situated  took  its  name.  Its  ultimate  sources  are  in  Colo- 
rado, like  those  of  the  Smoky  Hill  r.  Its  main  course  then  cuts  off  the  extreme 
N.  W.  corner  of  Kansas,  by  running  through  Cheyenne  Co.;  whereupon  the 
stream  enters  Nebraska,  and  skirts  the  southern  border  of  this  until  it  dips  into 
Kansas  across  the  N.  border  of  Jewell  Co.,  whence  it  continues  E.  into  Repub- 
lic Co.,  turns  S.  in  this  to  Cloud  Co.,  E.  through  this  to  Cl.ay  Co.,  and  S.  E. 
through  this  toGeai7Co.,  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Smoky  Hill,  as  already  noted. 
The  whole  journey  thus  made  from  the  Osagcs  to  tlie  Pawnees  foots  up,  by 
Pike's  distances,  .about  350  m.  In  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  War  he  calls  it 
"375  "  ;  '"•'  t'l's  is  simply  offhand.  He  also  cl.iims  that  his  Os.iges  led  him 
roundabout  100  m.  through  their  fear  of  the  "  Kans."  Pike's  Land  mileages 
seem  to  me  more  correct  than  those  excessive  ones  he  assigns  to  his  navigation. 
I  suppose  this  journey  to  have  been  between  300  and  325  m. 

I  must  emphasize  here  the  fact  that  I  have  failed  in  every  attempt  to  locate 
the  precise  site  of  the  Pawnee  village.  One  would  suppose  it  well  known  ;  1  find 
that  it  is  not,  and  have  yet  to  discover  the  ethnographer  or  geographer  who  can 
point  it  out.  Correspondence  addressed  to  persons  now  living  in  the  vicinity 
was  as  fruitless  as  my  exploration  of  tlie  sources  of  official  knowledge  in  Wasli- 
ington,  where  several  friends  interested  themselves  in  my  behalf  to  no  purjiose. 
I  know  of  no  closer  indication  than  that  affonled  by  dregg's  map  of  1844.  This 
letters  "Old  Pawnee  Vilkage  "  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Republican,  halfway  be- 
tween long.  gS°  and  99°  W.,  and  thus,  as  I  judge,  about  opposite  the  jiresent 
town  of  Red  Cloud,  Webster  Co.,  Neb.  Gregg  runs  the  Rejiublican  entirely  .S. 
of  lat.  40°  N.,  /.  e.,  in  Kansas  ;  but  the  place  where  Pike  struck  it  was  certainly 
in  that  portion  of  its  course  which  nms  in  Nebraska,  just  over  the  Kansas  line. 
Gregg  in  fact  gives  his  river  a  recognizable  northward  convexity  along  here,  and  if 
it  does  not  overreach  40°,  t1i.it  is  a  fault  of  absolute,  not  relative,  position.  We 
are  here  much  less  concerned  with  latituile  than  with  longitude.  Tlie  river  is  run- 
ning approximately  from  W.  to  K.,  in  Wclistcr  Co.,  and  the  main  point  is  how 
far  W.  the  vill.agc  w.as,  as  tliat  would  affect  details  of  the  route  from    the  last 


SPANISH   INFORMATION   OF   PIKES   ORDERS.  4I  I 

N.  E.  (except  that  mentioned  by  the  Abbe  Raynal "  in  his 
History  of  the  Indies)  to  the  Pawnees — of  whicli  see  a  more 
particular  account  hereafter.  In  the  year  1806  our  affairs 
with  Spain  began  to  wear  a  very  serious  aspect,  and  the 
troops  of  the  two  governments  ahnost  came  to  actual  hos- 
tilities on  the  frontiers  of  Texas  and  the  Orleans  territory. 
At  this  time,  when  matters  bore  every  appearance  of  com- 
ing to  a  crisis,  I  was  fitting  out  for  my  expedition  from  St. 
Louis,  where  some  of  the  Spanish  emissaries  in  that  country 
transmitted  the  information  to  Majar.  Merior  [sif]  and  the 
Spanish  council  at  that  place,  who  immediately  forwarded 
the  information  to  the  then  commandant  of  Nacogdoches, 
Captain  Sebastian  Rodreriques  [szc^,  who  forwarded  it  to 
Colonel  [Don  Antonio]  Cordero,  by  whom  it  was  trans- 
mitted to  [General  Don  Nimesio  Salcedo,  at  Chihuahua,] 
the  seat  of  government.  This  information  was  personally 
communicated  to  me,  as  an  instance  of  the  rapid  means 
they  possessed  of  transmitting  information  relative  to  the 
occurrences  transacting  on  our  frontiers.  The  expedition 
was  then  determined   on,  and  had  three  objects  in  view  : 

point  at  which  I  have  been  able  to  locate  Pike.  It  will  be  necessary  to  discover 
the  exact  situation  of  the  Pawnee  village  before  the  cloud  over  the  end  of  this 
journey  can  be  dispelled,  and  the  beginning  of  the  journey  from  the  village  to 
Great  Bend  on  the  Arkansaw  can  be  set  in  a  clear  light.  For  the  present  I  can 
only  tentatively  assume  longitude  gS*^  30'  W.    (See  Scandia,in  the  Index.) 

"  Guillaiime  Thomas  Francois  Raynal,  commonly  called  Abbe  Raynal,  b. 
Aveyron,  France,  Apr.  12th,  1713,  d.  Paris,  Mar.  6th,  1796 — a  philosophical  free- 
tliinker  and  historian,  who  wrote  too  much  sense  and  truth  to  suit  his  official 
superiors,  and  was  consequently  unfrocked.  It  is  a  curious  fact  in  the  history 
of  the  most  Tammany-like  machine  for  the  propagation  of  painful  superstitions 
ever  known  in  the  Western  world— excepting  perhaps  lirigham  Young's  similarly 
organized  scheme — that  whenever  one  of  its  members  begins  to  think  for  him- 
self they  make  him  take  off  his  gown  and  wear  trousers  openly.  The  irony  in 
the  case  seems  to  escape  the  professional  nurserymen  in  that  hot-house.  The 
abbe  wrote  various  works  ;  his  most  celebrated  one,  to  which  Pike  refers,  is  : 
Histoire  Philosophique  et  Politique  des  Etablissements  et  du  Commerce  des 
Europeens  dans  les  Deux  Indes,  1770,  repub.  1780-85 — a  book  whose  strength 
and  other  merits  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  it  had  the  honor  of  being 
burned  by  Parliamentary  order  ;  though  its  author  was  simply  exiled,  the  times 
being  already  a  little  out  of  joint  for  roasting  heretics  along  with  their 
heresies. 


412  SPANISH    INVASION   OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

1st.  To  descend  the  Red  river,  in  order,  if  he  met  our 
expedition,  to  intercept  and  turn  us  back;  or,  should  Major 
Sparks'"  and  Mr.  [Thomas]  Freeman  have  missed  the  party 
from  Nacogdoches,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Viana, 
to  obUge  them  to  return  and  not  penetrate  further  into  the 
country,  or  make  them  prisoners  of  war. 

2d.  To  explore  and  examine  all  the  internal  parts  of  the 
country  from  the  frontiers  of  the  province  of  New  Mexico 
to  the  Missouri  between  the  La  Platte  [sentence  unfinished]. 

3d.  To  visit  the  Tetaus,  Pawnees  republic,  Grand  Paw- 
nees, Pawnee  Mahaws,  and  Kans."  To  the  head  chief  of  each 
of  those  nations  the  commanding  officer  bore  flags,  a  com- 
mission, grand  medal,  and  four  mules ;  and  with  all  of  them 
he  had  to  renew  the  chains  of  ancient  amity  which  was  said 
to  have  existed  between  their  father,  his  most  Catholic 
majesty,  and  his  children  the  red  laeople. 

The  commanding  ofificers  also  bore  positive  orders  to 
oblige  all  parties  or  persons,  in  the  above-specified  countries, 

'■^tichard  Sparks  of  Pennsylvania  had  been  a  captain  in  the  levies  of  1791, 
when  he  was  appointed  a  captain  of  infantry,  March  7th,  1792  ;  he  was  ar- 
ranged to  the  3d  Sub-legion,  Sept.  4th,  1792,  to  the  3d  Infantry,  Nov.  1st, 
1796,  and  transferred  to  the  2d  Infantry  Apr.  1st,  1802  ;  he  became  major 
July  29th,  1806,  lieutenant-colonel  Dec.  gth,  1807,  and  colonel  July  6th,  1812; 
he  was  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815,  and  died  July  1st,  1815. 

"  I.  As  already  indicated,  "  Tetaus  "and  "  Tetans  "  are  Pike's  names  for  Coni- 
anches,  also  variously  known  as  letans,  Jetans,  Ilietans,  Aiatans,  etc.,  and  also 
by  the  .Sioux  name  Padoucas,  adopted  by  tlie  French  ;  they  called  tliemselves 
Num,  meaning  simply  "  people."  Some  of  their  other  names  are  Kaumains, 
Choumans  and  Comandes  ;  %ve  now  write  Comanches  or  Camanches  indiffer- 
ently, thus  adopting  a  form  of  the  Spanish  name,  whose  meaning  is  unknown. 
These  Indians  are  of  the  Slioshonean  family  ;  they  number  about  150,  on  the 
Kiowa,  Comanche,  and  Wichita  Reservation  in  Oklahoma;  there  were  some  2,500 
when  they  were  placed  in  a  reservation  in  1S68  ;  they  had  been  noted,  time  out  of 
mind,  as  wide-ranging,  lawless,  and  warlike  freebooters.  2.  Pike  above  mentions 
three  of  the  four  principal  tribes  of  the  Pawnee  confederation,  t.  <f. ,  of  the  middle 
group  of  Caddoan  stock,  who  are  ;  (i)  Pawnee  proper,  Grand  Pawnee,  or  Tcavvi  ; 

(2)  Pawnee  Republicans  or  Republican  Pawnees  (giving  name  to  the  great  branch 
of  the  Kansas  r.) ;  (3)  Pawnee  Loups,  Pawnee  Mahas,  Pawnee  Wolves,  or 
Skidis  ;  (4)  Tapage  or  I'itahauer.it  ;  see  further,  L.  and  C,  ed.  1893,  pp.  55-57- 

(3)  Pike's  Kans  are  entirely  different  Indians,  of  Siouan  stock,  Dhegiha  group  : 
for  these  see  /.  c,  pp.  33,  34. 


MALGARES'   SPIRITED    RAID.  413 

either  to  retire  from  them  into  the  acknowledged  territories 
of  the  United  States,  or  to  make  prisoners  of  them  and  con- 
duct them  into  the  province  of  N.  Mexico.  Lieutenant 
Don  Facundo  Malgares,  the  officer  selected  from  the  five 
internal  provinces  to  command  this  expedition,  was  a 
European  (his  uncle  was  one  of  the  royal  judges  in  the 
kingdom  of  New  Spain),  and  had  distinguished  himself  in 
several  long  expeditions  against  the  Apaches  and  other 
Indian  nations  with  whom  the  Spaniards  were  at  war;  added 
to  these  circumstances,  he  was  a  man  of  immense  fortune, 
and  generous  in  its  disposal,  almost  to  profusion  ;  possessed 
a  liberal  education,  high  sense  of  honor,  and  a  disposition 
formed  for  military  enterprise.  This  officer  marched  from  the 
province  of  Biscay  with  100  dragoons  of  the  regular  service, 
and  at  Santa  I'^e, the  place  where  the  expedition  was  fitted  out, 
he  was  joined  by  500  of  the  mounted  militia  of  that  province, 
armed  after  the  manner  described  by  my  notes  on  that  sub- 
ject, and  completely  equipped  with  ammunition,  etc.,  for  six 
months  ;  each  man  leading  with  them  (by  order)  two  horses 
and  one  mule,  the  whole  number  of  their  beasts  was  2,075. 
They  descended  the  Red  river  233  leagues;  met  the  grand 
bands  of  the  Tetaus,  and  held  councils  with  them  ;  then 
struck  off  N.  E.,  and  crossed  the  country  to  the  Arkansaw, 
where  Lieutenant  Malgares  left  240  of  his  men  with  the  lame 
and  tired  horses,  while  he  proceeded  on  with  the  rest  to  the 
Pawnee  republic.  Here  he  was  met  by  the  chiefs  and 
warriors  of  the  Grand  Pawnees ;  held  councils  with  the  two 
nations  and  presented  them  the  flags,  medals,  etc.,  which  were 
destined  for  them.  He  did  not  proceed  to  the  execution 
of  his  mission  with  the  Pawnee  Mahaws  and  Kans,  as  he 
represented  to  me,  from  the  poverty  of  their  horses  and  the 
discontent  of  his  own  men  ;  but,  as  I  conceive,  from  the 
suspicion  and  discontent  which  began  to  arise  between  the 
Spaniards  and  the  Indians;  the  former  wished  to  revenge 
the  death  of  Villineuve  and  party,  while  the  latter  possessed 
all  the  suspicions  of  conscious  villainy  deserving  punish- 
ment.    Malgares   took   with  him  all  the  traders  he  found 


414  SPANISH   TAMPERING   WITH    PAWNEES. 

there  from  our  country,  some  of  whom,  liaving  been  sent  to 
Natchitoches,  were  in  abject  poverty  at  that  place  on  my 
arrival,  and  applied  to  me  for  means  to  return  to  St.  Louis. 
Lieutenant  Malgares  returned  to  Santa  Fe  the  of 

October,  when  his  militia  was  disbanded  ;  but  he  remained 
in  the  vicinity  of  that  place  until  we  were  brought  in,  when 
he,  with  dragoons,  became  our  escort  to  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment [in  Chihuahua]. 

Sept.  26tli.  Finding  our  encampment  not  eligible  as  to 
situation,  we  moved  down  on  to  the  prairie  hill,  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  nearer  the  village.  We  sent  our 
interpreter  to  town  to  trade  for  provisions.  About  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  12  Kans  arrived  at  the  village,  and 
informed  Baroney  that  they  had  come  to  meet  us,  hearing 
that  we  were  to  be  at  the  Pawnees'  village.  We  pitched 
our  camp  upon  a  beautiful  eminence,  whence  we  had  a  view 
of  the  town  and  all  that  was  transacting.  In  the  evening 
Baroney,  with  the  chief,  came  to  camp  to  give  us  the  news, 
and  returned  together. 

Sept.  zytli.  Baroney  arrived  from  the  village  about  one 
o'clock,  with  Characterish,  whose  commission  from  the 
Governor  of  New  Mexico  was  dated  Santa  Fe,  June  15th, 
1806,  and  three  other  chiefs,  to  all  of  whom  we  gave  a 
dinner.  I  then  made  an  appropriate  present  to  each,  after 
which  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  myself  accompanied  them 
to  town,  where  we  remained  a  few  hours,  and  returned. 
Appointed  to-morrow  for  the  interview  with  the  Kans  and 
Osage. 

Sunday,  Sept.  2Stli.  Held  a  council  of  the  Kans  and 
Osage,  and  made  them  smoke  of  the  pipe  of  peace.  Two 
of  the  Kans  agreed  to  accompany  us.  We  received  a  visit 
from  the  chief  of  the  village.  Made  an  observation  on  an 
emersion  of  one  of  Jupiter's  satellities. 

Sept.  2gth.  Held  our  grand  council  with  the  Pawnees,  at 
which  were  present  not  less  than  400  warriors,  the  circum- 
stances of  which  were  extremely  interesting.  The  notes  I 
took  on    my  grand  council  held  with  the  Pawnee  nation 


PAWNEE  COUNCIL.  415 

were  seized  by  the  Spanish  government,  together  with  ail 
my  speeches  to  the  different  nations.  But  it  may  be  inter- 
esting to  observe  here,  in  case  they  should  never  be 
returned,  that  the  Spaniards  had  left  several  of  their  i^ags 
in  this  village,  one  of  which  was  unfurled  at  the  chief's  door 
the  day  of  the  grand  council ;  and  that  among  various 
demands  and  charges  I  gave  them  was,  that  the  said  flag 
should  be  delivered  to  me,  and  one  of  the  United  States' 
flags  be  received  and  hoisted  in  its  place.  This  probably  was 
carrying  the  pride  of  nations  a  little  too  far,  as  there  had  so 
lately  been  a  large  force  of  Spanish  cavalry  at  the  village, 
which  had  made  a  great  impression  on  the  minds  of  the 
young  men,  as  to  their  power,  consequence,  etc.,  which  my 
appearance  with  20  infantry  was  by  no  means  calculated  to 
remove. 

After  the  chiefs  had  replied  to  various  parts  of  my  dis- 
course, but  were  silent  as  to  the  flag,  I  again  reiterated  the 
demand  for  the  flag,  adding  "  that  it  was  impossible  for  the 
nation  to  have  two  fathers  ;  that  they  must  either  be  the 
children  of  the  Spaniards,  or  acknowledge  their  American 
father."  After  a  silence  of  some  time  an  old  man  rose, 
went  to  the  door,  took  down  the  Spanish  flag,  brought  it 
and  laid  it  at  my  feet ;  he  then  received  the  American  flag, 
and  elevated  it  on  the  staff  which  had  lately  borne  the 
standard  of  his  Catholic  Majesty.  This  gave  great  satisfac- 
tion to  the  Osage  and  Kans,  both  of  whom  decidedly  avow 
themselves  to  be  under  American  protection.  Perceiving 
that  every  face  in  the  council  was  clouded  with  sorrow,  as 
if  some  great  national  calamity  were  about  to  befall  them, 
I  took  up  the  contested  colors,  and  told  them  "  that  as  they 
had  shown  themselves  dutiful  children  in  acknowledg- 
ing their  great  American  father,  I  did  not  wish  to  embarrass 
them  with  the  Spaniards,  for  it  was  the  wish  of  the  Amer- 
icans that  their  red  brethren  should  remain  peaceably 
around  their  own  fires,  and  not  embroil  themselves  in  any 
disputes  between  the  white  people  ;  and  that  for  fear  the 
Spaniards  might  return  there  in  force  again,  I  returned  them 


41 6  PAWNEE  DISAFFECTION. 

their  flag,  but  with  an  injunction  that  it  should  never  be 
hoisted  again  during  our  stay."  At  this  there  was  a  gen- 
eral shout  of  applause,  and  the  charge  was  particularly- 
attended  to. 

Sept.  joth.  Remained  all  day  at  the  camp,  but  sent  Baro- 
ney  to  town,  who  informed  me  on  his  return  that  the  chief 
appeared  to  wish  to  throw  great  obstacles  in  our  way.  A 
great  disturbance  had  taken  place  in  the  village,  owing  to 
one  of  the  young  Pawnees,  Frank,  who  lately  came  from 
the  United  States,  having  taken  the  wife  of  an  Osage  and 
run  away  with  her.  The  chief,  in  whose  lodge  the  Osage 
put  up,  was  extremely  enraged,  considering  it  a  breach  of 
hospitality  to  a  person  under  his  roof,  and  threatened  to 
kill  Frank  if  he  cauuht  him. 


CHAPTER  II. 

ITINERARY,  CONTINUED:  FROM  THE  PAWNEE  VILLAGE 
THROUGH  KANSAS  AND  COLORADO  TO  PIKE'S  PEAK, 
OCT.    IST-NOV.   30TH,  1806. 

•JITriEDNESDAY,  Oct.  ist.  Paid  a  visit  to  town  and  had 
^»^^  a  very  long  conversation  witli  the  chief,  who  urged 
everything  in  his  power  to  induce  us  to  turn  back.  Finally, 
he  very  candidly  told  us  that  the  Spaniards  wished  to  have 
gone  further  into  our  country,  but  he  induced  them  to  give 
up  the  idea  ;  that  they  had  listened  to  him  and  he  wished 
us  to  do  the  same ;  that  he  had  promised  the  Spaniards  to 
act  as  he  now  did,  and  that  we  must  proceed  no  further,  or 
he  must  stop  us  by  force  of  arms.  My  reply  was,  "  that  I 
had  been  sent  out  by  our  great  father  to  explore  the  western 
country,  to  visit  all  his  red  children,  to  make  peace  between 
them,  and  turn  them  from  shedding  blood  ;  that  he  might 
see  how  I  had  caused  the  Osage  and  Kans  to  meet  to  smoke 
the  pipe  of  peace  together,  and  take  each  other  by  the  hand 
like  brothers ;  that  as  yet  my  road  had  been  smooth,  with  a 
blue  sky  over  our  heads.  I  had  not  seen  any  blood  in 
our  path  ;  but  he  must  know  that  the  young  warriors  of 
his  great  American  father  were  not  women,  to  be  turned 
back  by  words;  that  I  should  therefore  proceed,  and  if  he 
thought  proper  to  stop  me,  he  could  attempt  it ;  but  we 
were  men,  well  armed,  and  would  sell  our  lives  at  a  dear 
rate  to  his  nation  ;  that  we  knew  our  great  father  would  send 
his  young  warriors  there  to  gather  our  bones  and  revenge 
our  deaths  on  his  people,  when  our  spirits  would  rejoice  in 
hearing  our  exploits  sung  in  the  war-songs  of  our  chiefs." 
I  then  left  his  lodge  and  returned  to  camp,  in  considerable 
perturbation  of  mind. 


4l8  COMMOTION    IN   CAMP. 

Oct.  2d.  We  received  advice  from  our  Kans  that  the 
chief  had  given  publicity  to  his  idea  of  stopping  us  by 
force  of  arms,  which  gave  serious  reflections  to  me,  and  was 
productive  of  many  singular  expressions  from  my  brave 
lads,  which  called  for  my  esteem  at  the  same  time  that  they 
excited  my  laughter.  Attempted  to  trade  for  horses,  but 
could  not  succeed.  In  the  night  we  were  alarmed  by  some 
savages  coming  near  our  camp  at  full  speed ;  but  they 
retreated  equally  rapidly,  on  being  hailed  with  fierceness  by 
our  sentinels.  This  created  some  degree  of  indignation  in 
my  little  band,  as  we  had  noticed  that  all  the  day  had 
passed  without  any  traders  presenting  themselves,  which 
appeared  as  if  all  intercourse  was  interdicted.  I  wrote  to 
the  secretary  at  war,  the  general,  etc. 

Oct.  jd.  The  intercourse  again  commenced.  Traded 
for  some  horses,  and  wrote  for  my  express. 

Oct.  4tk.  Two  French  traders  arrived  at  the  village  in 
order  to  procure  horses  to  transport  their  goods  from  the 
Missouri  to  the  village.  They  gave  us  information  that 
Captains  Lewis  and  Clark,'  with  all  their  people,  had 
descended  the  river  to  St.  Louis  ;  this  diffused  general  joy 
through  our  party.  Our  trade  for  horses  advanced  none 
this  day. 

Sunday,  Oct.  ^th.  Buying  horses.  Preparing  to  march, 
and  finishing  my  letters. 

Oct.  6th.  Marched  my  express.'  Purchasing  horses  and 
preparing  to  march  on  the  morrow. 

Oct.  yth.  In  the  morning  we  found  two  of  our  newly 
purchased  horses  missing.  Sent  in  search  of  them  ;  the 
Indians  brought  in  one  pretty  early.  Struck  our  tents  and 
commenced   loading   our   horses.      Finding    there   was  no 

'  On  the  other  hand,  Lewis  and  Clark  first  heard  of  Pike's  expedition  on 
.Sept.  loth,  1806,  when  they  were  nearing  the  Big  Nemaha  on  their  way  down 
the  Missouri,  and  met  a  boat  with  a  trader  bound  for  tlie  Pawnee  Loups  :  see 
L.  and  C,  p.  1206. 

'  Letters  to  Generals  Dearborn  and  Wilkinson,  sent  by  this  express,  formed 
Docs.  Nos.  13  and  14  in  the  App.  to  Pt.  2.  of  the  orig.  ed.  They  are  given 
beyond. 


PAWNEES  THREATEN  THE   EXPEDITION.  419 

probability  of  our  obtaining  the  other  lost  one,  we  marched 
at  2  p.  m.;  and  as  the  chief  had  threatened  to  stop  us  by 
force  of  arms,  we  made  every  arrangement  to  make  him 
pay  as  dearly  for  the  attempt  as  possible.  The  party  was 
kept  compact,  and  marched  by  a  road  round  the  village, 
in  order  that,  if  attacked,  the  savages  would  not  have  their 
houses  to  fly  to  for  cover.  I  had  given  orders  not  to 
fire  until  within  five  or  six  paces,  and  then  to  charge  with 
the  bayonet  and  saber,  when  I  believe  it  would  have  cost 
them  at  least  100  men  to  have  exterminated  us,  which 
would  have  been  necessary.  The  village  appeared  all  to 
be  in  motion.  I  galloped  up  to  the  lodge  of  the  chief, 
attended  by  my  interpreter  and  one  soldier,  but  soon  saw 
there  was  no  serious  attempt  to  be  made,  although  many 
young  men  were  walking  about  with  their  bows,  arrows, 
guns,  and  lances.  After  speaking  to  the  chief  with  appa- 
rent indifference,  I  told  him  that  I  calculated  on  his  jus- 
tice in  obtaining  the  horse,  and  that  I  should  leave  a  man 
until  the  next  day  at  twelve  o'clock  to  bring  him  out. 
We  then  joined  the  party  and  pursued  our  route. 

When  I  was  once  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  which 
overlooks  the  village,  I  felt  my  mind  relieved  from  a  heavy 
burden  ;  yet  all  the  evil  I  wished  the  Pawnees  was  that 
I  might  be  the  instrument,  in  the  hands  of  our  govern- 
ment, to  open  their  ears  and  eyes  with  a  strong  hand,  to 
convince  them  of  our  power. 

Our  party  now  consisted  of  two  officers,  one  doctor,  18 
soldiers,  one  interpreter,  three  Osage  men,  and  one  woman, 
making  25  warriors.  We  marched  out  and  encamped  on  a 
small  branch  [of  Rock  creek],  distant  seven  miles,  on  the 
same  route  we  came  in.'     Rain  in  the  night. 

'Camp  is  on  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Rock  or.,  close  to  that  of  Sept.  24th, 
if  not  on  the  same  spot. 

The  route  now  taken  by  the  expedition  is  very  little  W.  of  S.,  to  strike  the 
Arkansaw  r.  at  the  most  convenient  point.  Thus  it  diverges  westerly  from  the 
route  by  which  the  Pawnee  Republic  was  approached,  which  was  W.  of  N. 
The  two  make  a  A  whose  legs  rest  on  the  .'^moky  Hill  fork  at  the  two  points 
where  this  was  crossed  in  going  and  returning,  with  the  apex  at  the  village. 


420         PAWNEES   PACIFIED— THE    MARCH    RESUMED. 

Oct.  8th.  I  conceived  it  best  to  send  Baroney  back  to  the 
village  with  a  present,  to  be  offered  for  our  horse,  the  chief 
having  suggested  tlie  propriety  of  this  measure  ;  he  met  his 
son  and  the  horse  with  Sparks.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and 
at  four  o'clock  came  to  the  place  where  the  Spanish  troops 
encamped  the  first  night  they  left  the  Pawnee  village.  Their 
encampment  was  circular,  having  only  small  fires  round  the 
circle  to  cook  by.  We  counted  59  fires  ;  now  if  we  allow  six 
men  to  each  fire,  they  must  have  been  354  in  number.'  We 
encamped  on  a  large  branch  of  the  second  [Solomon's]  fork 
of  the  Kans  river.     Distance  18  miles.' 

Oct.  gth.  Marched  at  eight  o'clock,  being  detained  until 
that  time  by  our  horses  being  at  a  great  distance.  At  eleven 
o'clock  we  found  the  forks  of  the  Spanish  and  Pawnee  roads. 

The  main  streams  crossed  between  the  Republican  and  Smoky  Hill  forks  are 
Solomon  and  Great  Saline  rivers.  Pike  is  also  on  the  trail  of  the  Spaniards 
who  have  just  raided  United  States  territory  to  the  Pawnees  ;  he  marks  their 
camps,  as  far  as  he  can  find  them  out,  with  a  O ,  to  distinguish  them  from  his 
own,  marked  X. 

The  party  which  leaves  the  Pawnees,  so  far  as  the  white  men  are  concerned, 
only  differs  from  that  which  left  Belle  Fontaine  by  the  absence  of  the  deserter, 
Kennerman  :  see  note  ',  p.  358.  The  express  which  Pike  dispatched  there- 
fore consisted  of  some  of  his  Indians. 

■*  This  close  calculation  was  doubtless  based  in  part  on  information  Pike 
already  possessed.  We  have  been  told  that  Malgares  started  on  his  raid  with 
100  dragoons  and  500  militia,  of  which  600  men  240  had  been  detached,  leaving 
360.  The  "  large  branch  "  on  which  was  camp  was  probably  one  of  the  heads 
of  Livingston  cr. 

'  "  Distance  18  miles  "  would  never  bring  Pike  to  any  branch  of  the  Solomon. 
His  error  here  is  a  puzzling  one  until  it  is  detected  by  reference  to  the  map. 
That  sets  his  camp-mark  high  up  on  the  same  creek,  several  branches  of  which 
he  had  on  his  left  when  he  went  up  E.  of  it,  Sept.  24th.  It  is  Buffalo  cr., 
which  Pike  erroneously  runs  into  Solomon  r. ,  and  so  seems  never  to  have  passed 
before.  See  back,  note  ^.  I  suppose  he  struck  Buffalo  cr.  below  Mankato, 
somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of  Jewell  and  very  likely  between  these  places.  He 
seems  to  be  holding  about  S.  .S.  W.,  and  to-morrow  strikes  Solomon  r.  But, 
as  already  explained,  note  '"',  p.  410,  precision  in  this  matter  is  impossible,  with- 
out knowing  exactly  where  the  Pawnee  village  stood,  so  as  to  have  a  fixed 
initial  point  of  the  journey.  I  understand  that  there  was  a  certain  "  Pawnee 
trail  "  once  well  known  from  this  village  to  Great  Bend  on  the  Arkansaw.  If 
this  be  now  determinable,  it  will  represent  Pike's  route  with  a  closer  approxi- 
mation to  accuracy  than  I  have  been  able  to  follow  it  out. 


SOLOMON  RIVER   RECROSSED   HIGHER   UP.  42 1 

and  when  we  halted  at  twelve  o'clock,  we  were  overtaken  by 
the  second  chief,  Iskatappe,  and  the  American  chief  with 
one-third  of  the  village.  They  presented  us  with  a  piece  of 
bear-meat. 

When  we  were  about  to  march,  we  discovered  that  the  dirk 
of  the  doctor  had  been  stolen  from  behind  the  saddle.  After 
marching  the  men,  the  doctor  and  myself,  with  the  inter- 
preter, went  to  the  chief  and  demanded  that  he  should 
cause  a  search  to  be  made  ;  it  was  done,  but  when  the  dirk 
was  found,  the  possessor  asserted  that  he  had  found  it  on  the 
road.  I  told  him  that  he  did  not  speak  the  truth,  and  in- 
formed the  chief  that  we  never  suffered  a  thing  of  ever  so 
little  value  to  be  taken  without  liberty.  At  this  time  the 
prairie  was  covered  with  his  men,  who  began  to  encircle  us 
around,  and  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  with  the  troops  had 
gained  half  a  mile  on  the  road.  The  Indian  demanded  a 
knife  before  he  would  give  it  up  ;  but  as  we  refused  to  give 
any,  the  chief  took  one  from  his  belt  and  gave  him,  took  the 
dirk  and  presented  it  to  the  doctor,  who  immediately  re- 
turned it  to  the  chief  as  a  present,  desired  Baroney  to  inform 
him  he  now  saw  it  was  not  the  value  of  the  article  but  the 
act  we  despised,  and  then  galloped  off. 

In  about  a  mile  we  discovered  a  herd  of  elk,  which  we  pur- 
sued ;  they  took  back  in  sight  of  the  Pawnees,  who  immedi- 
ately mounted  50  or  60  young  men  and  joined  in  the  pur- 
suit. Then,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I  saw  animals 
slaughtered  by  the  true  savages  with  their  original  weapons, 
bows  and  arrows  ;  they  buried  the  arrow  up  to  the  plume  in 
the  animal.  We  took  a  piece  of  meat  and  pursued  our 
party  ;  we  overtook  them  and  encamped  within  the  Grand 
or  Solomon  Fork,  which  we  had  crossed  lower  down  on  the 
23d  of  September,  on  our  route  to  the  Pawnees.  This  was 
the  Spanish  encamping  ground.     Distance  18  miles." 

In  the  evening  two  Pawnees  came  to   our  camp,  who  had 

'To  the  Solomon  r. ,  in  the  vicinity  of  Beloit,  Mitchell  Co.  The  stream 
which  Pike  lays  down  across  his  trail  of  to-day  is  perhaps  Plum  or. ,  which  falls 
in  below  T'.eloit. 


422  BETWEEN   SOLOMON  AND    SALINE   RIVERS. 

not  eaten  for  three  days,  two  of  which  they  had  carried  a 
sick  companion  whom  they  had  left  this  day  ;  we  gave  them 
for  supper  some  meat  and  corn,  and  they  immediately  de- 
parted in  order  to  carry  their  sick  companion  this  season- 
able supply.  When  they  were  coming  into  camp,  the  senti- 
nel challenged,  it  being  dark  ;  they  immediately,  on  seeing 
him  bring  his  piece  to  the  charge,  supposing  he  was  about  to 
fire  on  them,  advanced  to  give  him  their  hands ;  he,  how- 
ever, not  well  discerning  their  motions,  was  on  the  point  of 
firing ;  but  being  a  cool,  collected  little  fellow,  called  out 
that  there  were  two  Indians  advancing  on  him,  and  asked  if 
he  should  fire.  This  brought  out  the  guard,  when  the  poor 
affrighted  savages  were  brought  into  camp,  very  much 
alarmed,  for  they  had  not  heard  of  a  white  man's  being 
in  their  country,  and  thought  they  were  entering  one  of  the 
camps  of  their  own  people. 

Oct.  loth.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock  and  halted  at  twelve 
o'clock  to  dine.  Were  overtaken  by  the  Pawnee  chief 
whose  party  we  left  the  day  before,  who  informed  us  the 
hunting-party  had  taken  another  road,  and  that  he  had  come 
to  bid  us  good-by.  We  left  a  large  ridge  on  our  left,  and  at 
sundown  crossed  it.  .  .  .  [?']  From  this  place  we  had  an 
extensive  view  of  the  southwest ;  we  observed  a  creek  at  a 
distance,  to  which  I  meant  to  proceed.  The  doctor,  inter- 
preter, and  myself  arrived  at  eight  o'clock  at  night ;  found 
water  and  wood,  but  had  nothing  to  eat.  Kindled  a  fire  in 
order  to  guide  the  party;  but  they,  not  being  able  to  find 
the  route  and  not  knowing  the  distance,  encamped  on  the 
prairie  without  wood  or  water. 

Oct.  nth.  Ordered  Baroney  to  return  to  find  the  party 
and  conduct  them  to  our  camp.  The  doctor  and  myself 
went  out  to  hunt,  and  on  our  return  found  all  our  people 
had   arrived,    except   the   rear-guard,  which  was   in   sight. 

'Hi.itus  in  the  text,  probably  from  missing  or  illejipble  MS.;  no  course  or 
distance  for  to-day.  Hut  the  m.ap  shows  a  march,  and  sets  camp  among  tlie 
heads  of  a  .sm.all  stream.  Tliis  is  perh.aps  Salt  cr.,  high  up,  somewhere  in  the 
vicinity  of  Saltville,  I'.iris,  or  Victor. 


FROM   THE   SALINE  TO   SMOKY   HILL   RIVER.  423 

Whilst  we  halted  five  Pawnees  came  to  our  camp  and  brought 
some  bones  of  a  horse  which  the  Spanish  troops  had  been 
obliged  to  eat  at  their  encampment  on  this  creek.  We  took 
up  our  line  of  march  at  twelve  o'clock,  and  at  sundown  the 
party  halted  on  the  Saline.  I  was  in  pursuit  of  buffalo,  and 
did  not  make  the  camp  until  near  ten  o'clock  at  night. 
Killed  one  buffalo.     Distance  12  miles." 

Sunday,  Oct.  12th.  Here  Belle  Oiscau  and  one  Osage  left 
us,  and  there  remained  only  one  man  and  woman  of  that  na- 
tion. Their  reason  for  leaving  us  was  that  our  course  bore 
too  much  west,  and  they  desired  to  bear  more  for  the  hunt- 
ing-ground of  the  Osage.  In  the  morning  we  sent  out  to 
obtain  the  buffalo  meat,  and  laid  by  until  after  breakfast. 
Proceeded  at  eleven  o'clock  ;  and  crossing  the  [Grand  Saline] 
river  two  or  three  times,  we  passed  two  camps  where  the 
Spanish  troops  had  halted.  Here  they  appeared  to  have 
remained  some  days,  their  roads  being  so  much  blended  with 
the  traces  of  the  buffalo  that  we  lost  them  entirely.  This 
was  a  mortifying  stroke,  as  we  had  reason  to  calculate  that 
they  had  good  guides,  and  were  on  the  best  route  for  wood 
and  water.  We  took  a  southwest  direction,  and  before  night 
were  fortunate  enough  to  strike  their  roads  on  the  left  ;  and 
at  dusk,  much  to  our  surprise,  struck  the  east  [Smoky  Hill] 
fork  of  the  Kans,  or  La  Touche  de  la  Cote  Bucanicus. 
Killed  one  buffalo.     Distance  18  miles." 

Oct.  ijth.     The  day  being  rainy,  we  did  not  march  until 

'Perhaps  to  vicinity  of  Lincoln,  seat  of  the  county  so  callefl.  The  map  has 
an  extra  camp-mark,  on  the  head  of  what  Pike  calls  "  Little  S.iline  river." 

'  In  saying  that  he  crossed  the  (Grand  Saline)  river"  two  or  three  times," 
Pike  does  not  mean  that  he  meandered  that  stream  on  his  march,  but  that  he  or 
some  of  his  party  were  hunting  about  for  the  Spanish  trail  which  he  was  socager 
to  follow,  and  which  here  became  bliml.  His  map  marks  O  O,  the  two  Spanish 
camps  he  found.  His  was  on  the  north  bank  of  Smoky  Hill  r.,  whose  other 
name  in  the  text,  "  La  Touche  de  la  Cote  Bucanieus,"  possibly  stands  for  La 
Fourche  de  la  Cote  du  Kansas,  i.  e.,  that  fork  of  the  Kansas  which  runs  along 
the  dividing  ridge  or  coteau — which  is  perfectly  true  of  the  Smoky  Hill  fork. 
Pike  struck  the  Smoky  Hill  in  Russell  or  Ellsworth  Co.  Camp  of  the  13th  is 
about  on  the  border  of  Russell  and  Barton  cos.,  in  the  vicinity  of  Forest  Hill 
and  Dubuque. 


424  FROM   MISSOURTAN   TO    ARKANSAN   WATERS. 

two  o'clock  ;  when,  it  having  an  appearance  of  clearing  off, 
we  raised  our  camp  [and  crossed  the  Smoky  Hill  river] ; 
after  which  we  marched  seven  miles  and  encamped  on  the 
head  of  a  branch  of  the  river  we  had  left.  Had  to  go  two 
miles  for  water.     Killed  one  cabrie. 

Oct.  iph.  It  having  drizzled  rain  all  night,  and  the  atmos- 
phere being  entirely  obscured,  we  did  not  march  until  a  quar- 
ter past  nine  o'clock,  and  commenced  crossing  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  Kans  and  Arkansaw  rivers.'"  Arrived  on 
a  branch  of  the  latter  at  one  o'clock  ;  continued  down  it  in 
search  of  water  until  after  dusk,  when  we  found  a  pond  on 
the  prairie,  which  induced  us  to  halt.  Sparks  did  not  come 
up,  being  scarcely  able  to  walk  with  rheumatic  pains. 
Wounded  several  buffalo,  but  could  not  get  one  of  them. 
Distance  24  miles. 

Oct.  i£th.  In  the  morning  rode  out  in  search  of  the  south 
trace,  and  crossed  the  low  prairie  [Cheyenne  Bottoms], 
which  was  nearly  all  covered  with  ponds,  but  could  not  dis- 

'"  Tlie  approximation  of  Missourian  and  Arkansan  waters  is  here  very  close. 
The  Arkansaw  makes  its  great  bend  noitliward  into  Barton  Co.,  whose  county 
seat  is  named  Great  Bend  accordingly.  The  courses  of  the  Smoky  Hill  and 
Arkansaw  are  for  many  miles  approximately  parallel,  .and  only  some  30  m. 
apart  in  air-line  distance  ;  the  numerous  tributaries  of  each  arise  all  along  the 
ridge  which  forms  the  divide  between  these  waters.  Pike  has  crossed  the 
divide,  and  is  now  on  one  of  the  headwaters  of  Cow  cr. ,  a  large  affluent  of  the 
Arkansaw,  which  traverses  Barton  and  Rice  cos.  in  a  southeasterly  course,  and 
falls  in  at  Hutchinson,  Reno  Co.  His  camp  appears  to  have  been  somewhere 
in  the  vicinity  of  Claflin,  Barton  Co.,  on  the  Kas.  and  Col.  R.  R.  The  stream 
is  laid  down  on  his  map.  It  is  by  far  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Arkansaw 
between  the  Little  Arkansaw  and  Walnut  creeks.  It  w.as  the  last  stream  to  be 
crossed  on  the  old  Santa  Fe  caravan  road  before  the  Arkansiiw  was  reached. 
This  road  also  crossed  the  several  tributaries  of  Cow  cr.  in  the  vicinity  of 
Lyons,  Rice  Co.  One  of  these,  between  Lyons  and  Chase,  was  called  Little 
Cow  cr.  We  find  another,  E.  of  Lyons,  marked  on  modern  maps  as  "  Jarvis  " 
cr.,  .and  given  as  Chare?,  or  Owl  cr.  in  Beckwith's  Report  of  1853,  P.  R.  R. 
Rep.  II.  1855,  p.  22.  Two  of  these  names  refer  to  Don  Antonio  Jose  Chavez, 
who  left  Santa  Fc  in  February,  1843,  en  route  for  Independence,  Mo.,  but  was 
brutally  nuirckrcd  and  rubbed  in  this  vicinity,  on  or  about  April  I2th,  by  a 
party  of  15  men  who  represented  themselves  to  be  Texan  troops  under  the  com- 
mand of  one  John  McDaniel.  Particul.irs  of  this  outr.agc  are  given  by  Gregg, 
Comm.  I'ra.  II.  1S44,  pp.  1(16-169. 


APPROACHING  THE  GREAT  BEND.         425 

cover  it.  Finding  Sparks  did  not  arrive,  sent  two  men  in 
search  of  him,  who  arrived  with  him  about  eleven  o'clock. 
At  twelve  o'clock  we  commenced  our  line  of  march,  and  at 
five  o'clock  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  left  the  party  at  a  large 
[Walnut "]  creek,  having  pointed  out  a  distant  wood  to  Lieu- 

"  Walnut  (Dig  or  Wet  Walnut)  cr.  is  that  large  northern  affluent  of  the  Arkan- 
saw  which  runs  E.  from  Lane  through  Ness  and  Rush  into  Barton  Co.,  and  falls 
into  the  river  4  m.  below  Great  Bend,  county  seat  of  Barton.  A  brancii  of  this, 
called  Little  or  Dry  Walnut  cr.,  runs  E.  from  Rusli  into  Barton,  and  falls  into 
W.alnut  cr.  about  4  m.  from  the  mouth  of  the  latter.  Great  Bend  is  on  the  N. 
bank  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  thus  between  that  river  and  Little  Walnut  cr.  The 
way  in  which,  and  the  precise  point  at  which,  the  Expedition  struck  the  Arkansaw 
could  hardly  be  discovered  from  tlie  text  of  the  I5th-i8th  ;  we  are  not  even  told 
till  the  i8th  that  we  are  on  the  Arkansaw,  as  the  15th  mostly,  and  the  i6th  and 
17th  entirely,  are  taken  up  with  the  wanderings  of  the  lieutenant  and  doctor, 
who  got  lost.  The  key  to  the  situation  is  not  found  till  the  23d,  when  it  is 
luckily  recited  that  a  trip  was  made  from  the  camp  on  the  Arkansaw  "  al)Out  20 
miles  to  a  large  branch  [or  fork]  on  the  right."  This  is  the  well-known  Paw- 
nee fork  of  the  Arkansaw,  where  w.is  old  Fort  Larned,  a  noted  place,  and  where 
is  now  Larned,  seat  of  Pawnee  Co.  So  the  Expedition  struck  the  Arkansaw  20 
m.  below  Larned,  in  the  very  suburbs  of  the  present  city  of  Great  Bend.  This 
locality  about  the  month  of  Walnut  cr.  became  early  noted,  not  only  as  the 
place  of  northernmost  deflection  of  the  Arkansaw,  but  also  as  the  first  olijective 
point  on  that  rivci-,  where  the  old  Santa  Fe  caravan  road  struck  that  river. 
It  also  became  the  site  of  Fort  Zara,  or  Zarah — to  be  found  on  some  maps  as 
Fort  .Sarah — which  was  built  in  1853  o"  'l"^  'I'g'i  ground  between  Walnut  and 
Cow  creeks,  about  5  m.  N.  of  the  road.  On  July  12th  of  that  ye.ar,  Capt.  Gun- 
nison reached  the  great  bend  by  the  Smoky  Hill  route  from  Fort  Riley,  having 
been  preceded  in  arriving  there  three  days  by  his  companion,  who  came  over 
the  regular  Santa  Fe  route  ;  Lieut. -Col,  E.  V.  Sumner,  1st  Dragoons,  and  other 
officers,  arrived  from  Mexico  the  same  night ;  and  on  the  spot  was  camped  Cap- 
tain and  Bvt. -Major  Edward  Johnson,  Cth  Infantry,  about  to  build  the  fort,  as 
that  100  m.  further  up  the  Arkansaw  (Fort  Atkinson)  was  to  be  abandoned. 
Col.  John  Garland  of  the  8th  Infantry  passed  by  in  July  of  that  year.  Pike's 
approach  was  :  Being  in  camp  of  the  14th  on  some  head  of  Cow  cr.,  the  Expe- 
dition started  on  the  15th  at  noon,  and  marched  five  hours,  about  15  m.,  on  a 
W.  S.  W.  course,  thus  crossing  the  Cheyenne  Bottoms  .above  said,  and  coming 
to  Walnut  cr.  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Little  W.ilnut  above  described.  Pike 
pointed  out  a  wood  and  told  Wilkinson  to  go  there  to  camp,  while  he  and  the 
iloctor  would  go  up  Walnut  cr.  a  piece  to  hunt  (or  tlie  Spanish  trail.  Either 
mistaking  the  wood  intended,  or  finding  himself  so  near  the  Arkansaw,  Wilkin- 
son went  on  to  that  river  and  camped  the  party  on  its  north  bank,  a  mile  or  two 
above  where  Great  Bend  now  stands.  Pike  and  the  doctor  went  shooting  buf- 
falo, and  it  got  pretty  late  ;  they  returned   to  where  Pike  had  told  Wilkinson 


426  AN    EXCURSION   ON   WALNUT   CREEK. 

tenant  Wilkinson  for  our  encampment,  in  order  to  search 
some  distance  up  it  for  the  Spanish  trace.  Killed  two  buf- 
falo and  left  part  of  our  clothing  with  them  to  scare  away 
the  wolves.     Went  in  pursuit  of  the  party.     On  our  arrival 

to  camp,  and  found  nobody  there  ;  so  they  bivouacked  on  the  spot.  In  the 
morning  they  went  up  Little  Walnut  cr.  to  search,  but  did  not  go  far  from  those 
two  buffalo  they  had  killed  ;  in  fact  they  got  rattled  at  finding  no  camp,  turned 
about  and  went  down  Little  Walnut  cr.  to  its  mouth  (which  is  what  text  of  the 
i6th  means  by  "  their  junction  " — confluence  of  the  two  creeks).  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  17th,  being  thoroughly  alarmed,  and  imagining  that  the  party  must 
be  higher  up  the  Little  Walnut,  they  started  up  again,  but  prob.ibly  went  a 
very  little  way  in  the  rain  ;  for  they  were  overtaken  early  on  the  18th  by  two 
men  whom  Wilkinson  had  sent  in  search  of  them,  and  then  they  were  only 
"about  three"  miles  from  the  camp  on  the  Arkansaw.  It  is  not  likely  they 
were  at  any  moment  10  m.  from  the  spot  where  they  had  left  the  party. 

Pike's  map  shows  nothing  but  the  trail  of  the  party,  no  camp  being  marked 
after  that  of  the  12th,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Smoky  Hill  r.  The  trail 
makes  a  sharp  elbow  at  the  point  where,  having  come  down  Cow  cr.  on  the 
14th,  they  turned  from  that  stream  on  the  15th.  Besides  Cow  cr.,  three 
others  appear  in  succession  to  the  W.  The  first  is  Walnut  cr. ;  the  second 
is  Little  Walnut,  a  branch  of  the  first,  run  separately  into  the  Arkansaw  ;  while 
the  third  is  Ash  cr.,  which  falls  in  above  camp.  Co%v  cr.  is  brought  in  too  near 
the  next  one.  On  the  south  side  of  the  Arkansaw  is  marked  the  station  of  the 
if)th-27th,  with  the  legend  :  "  Here  we  struck  the  Arkansaw  from  whence 
L'-  Wilkinson  descended  the  river  in  skin  canoes  and  Capt.  Pike  went  up  by 
land  with  his  party."  This  ends  map  I.  of  the  Arkansaw,  etc.,  and  map  II.  of 
the  same  connects  at  this  point,  the  first  stream  laid  down  being  Pawnee  fork, 
and  the  first  camp  that  of  the  29lh.  Camp  of  the  28th  falls  between  the  two 
maps,  and  is  not  shown.  The  Spanish  trail,  which  Pike  lost  on  Smoky  Hill 
r. ,  was  all  the  while  a  little  to  the  W.  or  right  of  the  party,  and  is  recovered  on 
tlie  .S.  side  of  the  Arkansaw,  on  the  30th. 

Pike  elsewhere  says  of  his  journey  from  the  Pawnees  to  the  Arkansaw  that  it 
was  on  a  general  course  S.  10°  W.  150  m.,  but  might  have  been  made  in  120. 
His  deviation  from  the  most  direct  route  was  in  bearing  a  little  too  far  W.  to  cross 
the  Saline  and  Smoky  Hill,  and  then  some  needless  meandering  across  the  divide 
to  the  Arkansaw.  l?ut  he  struck  the  latter  exactly  at  the  right  point  ;  for  Great 
Bend  is  where  the  old  Smoky  Hill  .and  Cimarron  route  from  Leavenworth  to 
Santa  l'"e  reached  the  Arkansaw.  There  was  of  course  nothing  on  the  spot  in 
Pike's  lime — nor  was  there  even  in  1864,  when  I  first  passed  the  place,  except- 
ing a  miseralilc  shack  the  stage  comjiany  li.id  built.  The  nearest  settlement  at 
that  time  w.ts  Fort  Lamed.  My  journal  of  May  31st,  1S64,  refreshes  my  mem- 
ory :  "At  2  p.  m.  we  brouglit  up  at  T'ort  Lamed — mean  jilace,  built  of  adobe 
and  logs,  with  a  drunken  oflicer  in  command  ;  everybody  h.alf  drunk  already  ; 
and  all  were  whole  drunk  by  1>cd-lime." 


PIKE   AND   ROBINSON   LOST  AND   FOUND.  427 

at  the  [Little  Walnut]  creek  appointed  for  the  encampment, 
did  not  find  them.  Proceeded  down  it  for  some  miles,  and 
not  finding  them,  encamped,  struck  fire,  and  then  supped  on 
one  of  our  buffalo  tongues. 

Oct.  i6th.  Early  on  horseback  ;  proceeded  up  the  [Little 
Walnut]  creek  some  distance  in  search  of  our  party,  but  at 
twelve  o'clock  crossed  to  our  two  buffaloes  ;  found  a  great 
many  wolves  at  them,  notwithstanding  the  precautions  taken 
to  keep  them  off.  Cooked  some  marrow-bones  and  again 
mounted  our  horses,  and  proceeded  down  the  creek  to  their 
junction.  Finding  nothing  of  the  party,  I  began  to  be  seri- 
ously alarmed  for  their  safety.  Killed  two  more  buffalo, 
made  our  encampment,  and  feasted  sumptuously  on  the  mar- 
row-bones.    Rain  in  the  night. 

Oct.  lytli.  Rose  early,  determining  to  search  the  [Little 
Walnut]  creek  to  its  source.  Very  hard  rain,  accompanied 
by  a  cold  northwester  all  day.  Encamped  near  night  with- 
out being  able  to  discover  any  signs  of  the  party.  Our  sen- 
sations now  became  excruciating,  not  only  for  their  personal 
safety,  but  for  fear  of  the  failure  of  the  national  objects  in- 
tended to  be  accomplished  by  the  expedition.  Our  own  sit- 
uation was  not  the  most  agreeable,  not  having  more  than 
four  rounds  of  ammunition  each,  and  being  400  miles  in  the 
nearest  direction  from  the  first  civilized  inhabitants.  We, 
however,  concluded  to  search  for  the  party  on  the  morrow, 
and  if  we  did  not  succeed  in  finding  them,  to  strike  the 
Arkansaw,  where  we  were  in  hopes  to  discover  some  traces, 
if  not  cut  off  by  the  savages. 

Oct.  i8th.  Commenced  our  route  at  a  good  time,  and 
about  ten  o'clock  discovered  two  men  on  horseback  in  search 
of  us — one  my  waiter.  They  informed  us  the  party  was  en- 
camped on  the  Arkansaw,  about  three  miles  south  of  where 
we  then  were ;  this  surprised  us  very  much,  as  we  had  no 
conception  of  that  river  being  so  near.  On  our  arrival  we 
were  met  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  who,  with  all  the  party, 
was  greatly  concerned  for  our  safety.  The  Arkansaw,  on  the 
party's  arrival,  had  not  water  in  it  six  inches  deep,  and  the 


428  ALL   SAFE   IN   CAMP  AT   GREAT   BEND. 

stream  was  not  more  than  20  feet  wide  ;  but  the  rain  of  the 
two  days  covered  all  the  bottom  of  the  river,  which  in  this 
place  is  450  yards  from  bank  to  bank.  These  are  not  more 
than  four  feet  in  height,  bordered  by  a  few  cottonwood  trees ; 
on  the  north  side  is  a  low  swampy  prairie  ;  on  the  south, 
a  sandy  sterile  desert  at  a  small  distance.  In  the  afternoon 
the  doctor  and  myself  took  our  horses  and  crossed  the  Ar- 
kansaw,  in  order  to  search  for  some  trees  which  might 
answer  the  purpose  to  make  canoes  ;  found  but  one,  and  re- 
turned at  dusk.     It  commenced  raining  at  twelve  o'clock. 

Sunday,  Oct.  igtli.  Finding  the  river  rising  rapidly,  I 
thought  it  best  to  secure  our  passage  over  [from  the  N.  to 
the  S.  bank]  ;  we  consequently  made  it  good  by  ten  o'clock. 
Rain  all  day.  Preparing  our  tools  and  arms  for  labor  and 
the  chase  on  the  morrow. 

Oct.  30th.  Commenced  our  labor  at  two  trees  for  canoes, 
but  one  proved  too  much  doated.'^  Killed  two  buffalo  and 
one  cabrie.  Discharged  our  guns  at  a  mark,  the  best  shot  a 
prize  of  one  tent  and  a  pair  of  shoes.  Our  only  dog  was 
standing  at  the  root  of  the  tree,  in  the  grass ;  one  of  the  balls 
struck  him  on  the  head  and  killed  him.  Ceased  raining 
about  twelve  o'clock. 

Oct.  2ist.  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  mounted  our  horses, 
in  order  to  go  down  the  river  to  the  entrance  of  the  three 
last  creeks  we  had  crossed  on  our  route  ;  but  meeting  with 
buffalo,  we  killed  four ;  also,  one  cabrie.  Returned  to  the 
camp  and  sent  for  the  meat. 

Oct.  22d.  Having  sat  up  very  late  last  evening,  expecting 
the  sergeant  and  party,  who  did  not  arrive,  we  were  very 
anxious  for  them  ;  but  about  ten  o'clock  Bradley  arrived  and 
informed  us  that  they  could  not  find  the  buffalo  which  we  had 
killed  on  the  prairie.  They  all  arrived  before  noon.  In  the 
afternoon  we  scaffolded  some  meat,  and  nearly  completed 
the  frame  of  a  skin  canoe,  which  we  concluded  to  build. 
Overhauled  my  instruments  and  made  some  rectifications 
preparatory  to  taking  an  observation,  etc. 

"  Doted  or  unsound  :  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  l8g3,  p.  qSI. 


SEARCH   FOR  THE   SPANISH   TRAIL.  429 

Oct.  2jd.  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself,  accompanied  by  one 
man,  ascended  the  river  with  an  intention  of  searching  for 
the  Spanish  trace  ;  at  the  same  time  we  dispatched  Baroney 
and  our  two  hunters  to  kill  some  buffalo,  to  obtain  the  skins 
for  canoes.  We  ascended  the  river  about  20  miles  to  a  large 
branch  [Pawnee  fork"]  on  the  right.  Just  at  dusk  gave 
chase  to  a  buffalo  and  were  obliged  to  shoot  19  ball  sinto 
him  before  we  killed  him.  Encamped  on  the  fork  [at  Larned, 
Pawnee  Co.]. 

Oct.  2^tli.  We  ascended  the  right  branch  [Pawnee  fork] 
about  five  miles  [old  Fort  Larned],  but  could  not  see  any 
sign  of  the  Spanish  trace  ;  this  is  not  surprising,  as  the  river 
bears  southwest,  and  they  no  doubt  kept  more  to  the  west 
from  the  head  of  one  branch  to  another.  We  returned  and 
on  our  way  killed  some  prairie-squirrels  \Cynoinys  ludovici- 
anus\  or  wishtonwishes,  and  nine  large  rattlesnakes  \Cro- 
taliis  conjlucntus],  which  frequent  their  villages.  On  our  ar- 
rival, found  the  hunters  had  come  in  a  boat,  one  hour  before, 
with  two  buffalo  and  one  elk  skin. 

"  Pawnee  fork  is  larger  than  Walnut  cr.  It  runs  through  several  counties  on 
a  general  E.  course,  and  falls  in  at  LarneJ,  scat  of  Pawnee  Co.  When  I  was 
in  the  country,  30  years  ago,  the  three  principal  branches  were  called  Ileth's, 
Buckner's,  and  Shaff's.  A  branch  now  rejoices  in  the  name  of  Guzzler's 
Gulch.  Saw-mill  cr.  is  a  long  but  slight  tributary  which  falls  in  close  to  the 
mouth  of  the  main  stream.  Pike  crosses  the  mouth  of  Pawnee  fork  on  the 
29th ;  the  Spaniards  had  crossed  it  higher  up.  He  lays  it  down  as  a  short, 
forked  stream.  Larned  is  now  a  city  of  some  importance,  and  a  rival  of 
Great  Bend  ;  it  is  the  natural  development  of  which  old  Fort  Larned  was  the 
germ  ;  it  is  built  mainly  on  the  N.  or  left  bank  of  Pawnee  fork,  but  has 
lately  crossed  that  stream,  and  also  extended  in  the  adjoining  Arkansaw  bottom. 
The  locality  became  noted  with  the  establishment  of  the  Santa  Fe  trade  in  the 
'20's,  and  later  on  was  a  point  of  strategic  importance  in  our  relations  with 
hostile  or  unruly  Indians.  The  main  road  passed  here  en  route  for  Santa  Fe, 
in  continuation  both  of  the  earliest  caravan  road  and  of  the  later  Smoky  Hill 
stage  route  ;  it  offered  a  good  camping  place,  which  traders,  troops,  and  other 
travelers  generally  occupied.  Another  reason  for  stopping  was  that  the  river 
was  not  easy  to  cross  wlien  full.  Thus,  when  Emory  and  Abert  were  here,  July 
13th,  1846,  one  of  Kearny's  expressmen,  A.  E.  Hughes,  was  drowned  in  it 
Q.  T.  Hughes,  Doniphan's  Exp.,  1887,  p.  zi).  But  it  varied  much  ;  July  13th, 
1853,  Gunnison  and  Beckwith  found  it  20  feel  wide,  with  a  fair  current,  and  a 
depth  of  only  a  foot  or  two. 


430  WISHTONWISH   TOWN. 

The  vvishtonwish  of  the  Indians,  prairie-dogs  of  some  trav- 
elers, or  squirrels,  as  I  should  be  inclined  to  denominate 
them,  reside  on  the  prairies  of  Louisiana  in  towns  or  vil- 
lages, having  an  evident  police  established  in  their  communi- 
ties. The  sites  of  their  towns  are  generally  on  the  brow  of 
a  hill,  near  some  creek  or  pond,  in  order  to  be  convenient  to 
water,  and  that  the  high  ground  which  they  inhabit  may  not 
be  subject  to  inundation.  Their  residence,  being  under 
ground,  is  burrowed  out,  and  the  earth,  which  answers  the 
double  purpose  of  keeping  out  the  water  and  affording  an 
elevated  place  in  wet  seasons  to  repose  on,  and  to  give  them 
a  further  and  more  distinct  view  of  the  country.  Their  holes 
descend  in  a  spiral  form  ;  therefore  I  could  never  ascertain 
their  depth ;  but  I  once  had  140  kettles  of  water  poured 
into  one  of  them  in  order  to  drive  out  the  occupant,  without 
effect.  In  the  circuit  of  the  villages  they  clear  off  all  the 
grass,  and  leave  the  earth  bare  of  vegetation  ;  but  whether 
it  is  from  an  instinct  they  possess  inducing  them  to  keep  the 
ground  thus  cleared,  or  whether  they  make  use  of  the  herb- 
age as  food,  I  cannot  pretend  to  determine.  The  latter 
opinion  I  think  entitled  to  a  preference,  as  their  teeth  desig- 
nate them  to  be  of  the  graminivorous  species,  and  I  know  of 
no  other  substance  which  is  produced  in  the  vicinity  of  their 
positions  on  which  they  could  subsist ;  and  they  never  ex- 
tend their  excursions  more  than  half  a  mile  from  the  bur- 
rows. They  are  of  a  dark  brown  color,  except  their  bellies, 
which  are  white.  Their  tails  are  not  so  long  as  those  of  our 
gray  squirrels,  but  arc  shaped  precisely  like  theirs ;  their 
teeth,  head,  nails,  and  body  are  the  perfect  squirrel,  except 
that  they  are  generally  fatter  than  that  animal.  Their  vil- 
lages sometimes  extend  over  two  and  three  miles  square,  in 
which  there  must  be  innumerable  hosts  of  them,  as  there  is 
generally  a  burrow  every  ten  steps  in  which  there  are  two  or 
more,  and  you  see  new  ones  partly  excavated  on  all  the  bor- 
ders of  the  town.  We  killed  great  numbers  of  them  with 
our  rifles  and  found  them  excellent  meat,  after  they  were  ex- 
posed a  night  or  two  to  the  frost,  by  which  means  the  rank- 


PREPARATION   FOR  SEPARATION.  43 1 

ness  acquired  by  their  subterraneous  dwelling  is  corrected. 
As  you  approach  their  towns,  you  are  saluted  on  all  sides  by 
the  cry  of  "  wishtonwish,"  from  which  they  derive  their 
name  with  the  Indians,  uttered  in  a  shrill  and  piercing  man- 
ner. You  then  observe  them  all  retreating  to  the  entrance 
of  their  burrows,  where  they  post  themselves,  and  regard 
every,  even  the  slightest,  movement  that  you  make.  It  re- 
quires a  very  nice  shot  with  a  rifle  to  kill  them,  as  they  must 
be  killed  dead,  for  as  long  as  life  exists  they  continue  to 
work  into  their  cells.  It  is  extremely  dangerous  to  pass 
through  their  towns,  as  they  abound  with  rattlesnakes,  both 
of  the  yellow  and  black  species  ;  and  strange  as  it  may  ap- 
pear, I  have  seen  the  wishtonwish,  the  rattlesnake,  the  horn 
frog  {Phrynosoma  dotiglasi'],  with  which  the  prairie  abounds 
(termed  by  the  Spaniards  the  cammellion  [camaleon,  i.  e., 
chameleon],  from  their  taking  no  visible  sustenance),  and  a 
land-tortoise,  all  take  refuge  in  the  same  hole.  I  do  not 
pretend  to  assert  that  it  was  their  common  place  of  resort  ; 
but  I  have  witnessed  the  above  facts  more  than  in  one 
instance." 

Oct.  2^tk.  Took  an  observation;  passed  the  day  in 
writing,  and  preparing  for  the  departure  of  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson. 

Sunday,  Oct.  26tk.  Delivered  out  a  ration  of  corn  by 
way  of  distinction  of  the  Sabbath.  Preparing  for  our 
departure. 

Oct.  2jth.  Delivered  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  letters  for 
the  general "  and  our  friends,  with  other  papers,  consisting  of 
his  instructions,  traverse  tables  of  our  voyage,  and  a  draught 

"  This  is  an  early  but  not  the  first  account  of  the  animals,  and  has  been  much 
cited,  particularly  as  authority  for  the  name  wishtonwish  (which  J.  Feniniore 
Cooper  misapplied  to  the  whippoorwill  in  one  of  his  novels).  The  date  of  Pike's 
observation  is  subsequent  to  that  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  but  its  publication  was 
prior  by  four  years  ;  both  these  notices  are  antedated  by  Gass,  1807  :  see  L.  and 
C,  ed.  1893,  p.  III. 

'*  A  letter  which  Lieutenant  Williamson  bore  to  his  father  from  Pike  formed 
Doc.  No.  15  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  2.  of  the  orig.  ed.,  and  is  given  beyond  in 
its  proper  place. 


432  WILKINSON   RETURNS — PIKE   PROCEEDS. 

of  our  route  to  that  place  complete,  in  order  that  if  we  were 
lost,  and  he  arrived  in  safety,  we  might  not  have  made  the 
tour  without  some  benefit  to  our  country.  He  took  with 
him,  in  corn  and  meat,  21  days'  provisions,  and  all  the  nec- 
essary tools  to  build  canoes  or  cabins.  Launched  his 
canoes.  We  concluded  we  would  separate  in  the  morning, 
he  to  descend  [the  river],  and  we  to  ascend  to  the  mountains. 
Oct.  2StJi.  As  soon  as  possible  all  was  in  motion,  my 
party  crossing  the  river  to  the  north  side,  and  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson  launching  his  canoes  of  skins  and  wood.  We 
breakfasted  together,  and  then  filed  off ;  but  I  suffered  my 
party  to  march,  while  I  remained  to  see  Lieutenant  Wilkin- 
son sail.  This  he  did  at  ten  o'clock,  having  one  skin  canoe, 
made  of  four  buffalo  skins  and  two  elk  skins,  which  held 
three  men  besides  himself  and  one  Osage.  In  his  wooden 
canoe  were  one  soldier,  one  Osage,  and  their  baggage  ;  one 
other  soldier  marched  on  shore.'"  We  parted  with  "  God 
bless  you  "  from  both  parties  ;  they  appeared  to  sail  very 
well.  In  the  pursuit  of  our  party.  Dr.  Robinson,  Baroney, 
one  soldier,  and  myself,  killed  a  brelau  [blaireau,  badger, 
Taxidea  amcricana]  and  a  buffalo ;  of  the  latter  we  took 
only  his  marrow-bones  and  liver.  Arrived  where  our  men 
had  encamped,  about  dusk.     Distance  14  miles." 

"  The  five  soldiers  who  descended  the  Arkansaw  with  Lieutenant  Wilkinson 
were :  Sergeant  Ballenger  ;  Privates  Boley,  Bradley,  Iluddleston,  Wilson. 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  separate  report  of  his  journey  hence  to  the  Arkansaw 
Post  formed  one  of  the  Documents  of  the  App.  to  I't.  2  of  the  orig.  ed.,  and 
will  be  found  beyond,  where  it  is  annotated  in  due  course. 

Those  who  proceeded  to  the  horrors  of  the  mountains  in  midwinter  and  sub- 
sequent capture  by  the  Spaniards  were  :  Captain  Pike  ;  Dr.  Robinson  ;  Inter- 
preter Vasquez  ;  Sergeant  Meek  ;  Corporal  Jackson  ;  Privates  Brown,  Carter, 
Dougherty,  Gorden,  Menaugli,  Miller,  Mountjoy,  Roy,  Smith,  Sparks,  Stoute 
— 16  all  told  :  compare  date  of  Oct.  7th,  p.  419  and  note  ",  p.  3O0. 

Pike  now  starts  up  the  Arkansaw,  to  which  beholds  till  he  reaches  the  site  of 
Pueblo,  Col. 

"Taking  the  party  past  Pawnee  rock  and  the  mouth  of  Ash  cr.,  to  a  point 
about  midway  between  the  latter  and  the  mouth  of  Pawnee  fork.  They  trav- 
eled on  the  left  or  N.  side  of  the  river,  approximately  along  the  track  of 
the   A.,  T.  and  S.  I'.  R.  R.,  passing   Dundee  station  and   the   small    town  of 


UP  THE  ARKANSAW— PAWNEE   FORK.  433 

Oct.  2gth.  Marched  after  breakfast  and  in  the  first  hour's 
march  passed  two  fires,  where  21  Indians  had  recently 
encamped,  in  which  party,  by  their  paintings  on  the  rocks, 
there  were  seven  guns.  Killed  a  buffalo,  halted,  made  fire, 
and  feasted  on  the  choice  pieces  of  meat.  About  noon  dis- 
covered two  horses  feeding  with  a  herd  of  buffalo ;  we 
attempted  to  surround  them,  but  they  soon  cleared  our 
fleetest  coursers.  One  appeared  to  be  an  elegant  horse. 
These  were  the  first  wild  horses  we  had  seen.  Two  or  three 
hours  before  night  struck  the  Spanish  road  ;  and,  as  it  was 
snowing,  halted  and  encamped  the  party  at  the  first  woods 
on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  doctor  and  myself  then 
forded  it,  the  ice  running  very  thick,  in  order  to  discover 
the  course  the  Spaniards  took  ;  but  owing  to  the  many  buf- 
falo roads,  could  not  ascertain  it.  It  evidently  appeared 
that  they  had  halted  here  some  time,  as  the  ground  was 
covered  with  horse-dung  for  miles  around.  Returned  to 
camp.  The  snow  fell  about  two  inches  deep,  and  then  it 
cleared  up.     Distance  12  miles.'" 

Pawnee  Rock  ;  Hubbard  cr. ,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  is  also  passed,  and 
camp  is  set  a  little  beyond  it,  over  the  border  of  Barton  Co.,  in  Pawnee  Co. 
The  town  of  Pawnee  Rock  takes  its  name  from  the  remarkable  natural  object 
of  the  same  designation,  also  sometimes  called  Painted  rock,  which  was  a  great 
landmark  in  old  times.  This  is  the  most  prominent  point  of  a  sandstone  ridge 
of  notably  reddish  color  and  in  part  scoriaceous  ;  it  is  about  20  feet  high,  and 
stands  off  to  the  right  of  the  road  as  you  go  up — about  2  m.  from  the  Arkansaw 
r. ,  before  you  come  to  the  crossing  of  Ash  cr.  It  was  a  convenient  place  for 
the  Indians  to  exercise  their  pictographic  art,  and  when  the  road  came  to  be 
traveled  by  the  whites  the  rock  was  soon  covered  with  inscriptions  of  names, 
dates,  and  the  like.  It  is  about  9  m.  by  the  road  from  the  town  of  Pawnee 
Rock  to  the  crossing  of  Pawnee  fork. 

"  Passing  Pawnee  fork  and  Lamed,  Pawnee  Co.,  to  camp  on  the  left  or  N. 
W.  bank  of  the  Arkansaw,  about  5  m.  beyond.  Here  is  the  place  where  the 
old  Santa  Fe  road  forked,  in  the  days  of  the  caravans  and  stages.  The  main 
road  followed  up  the  Arkansaw  ;  but  the  right-hand  road  sheered  off  from  the 
river  to  take  up  what  was  known  as  the  "  dry  route  " — a  sort  of  cut-off  which 
looked  promising  and  became  a  regular  stage-road,  but  was  no  great  advantage 
when  you  had  to  go  slowly  and  camp  out,  as  the  lesser  distance  was  offset  by 
lack  of  wood  at  all  times,  and  of  water  at  most  seasons.  Having  been  over 
this  road,  I  can  certify  to  the  remarks  of  Gunnison  and  Beckwith,  P.  R.  R. 
Rep.  II.,  1855,   p.   24  ;     "Five  miles   from  camp  [on  Pawnee  Fork]  the  road 


434  GARFIELD — KINSLEY. 

Oct.joth.  In  the  morning  sent  out  to  kill  a  buffalo,  to 
have  his  marrow-bones  for  breakfast,  which  was  accom- 
plished. After  breakfast  the  party  marched  up  on  the  north 
side ;  the  doctor  and  myself  crossed  with  considerable  dif- 
ficulty, on  account  of  the  ice,  to  the  Spanish  camp,  where 
we  took  a  large  circuit  in  order  to  discover  the  Spanish 
trace,  and  came  in  at  a  point  of  woods  south  of  the  river, 
where  we  found  our  party  encamped.  We  discovered  also 
that  the  Spanish  troops  had  marked  the  river  up  [i.  e.,  left 
an  up-river  trail],  and  that  a  party  of  savages  had  been 
there  not  more  than  three  days  before.  Killed  two  buffalo. 
Distance  4  miles.  [Opposite  Garfield,  Pawnee  Co.,  where 
Big  Coon  creek  falls  in."] 

Oct.  Jist.  Fine  day ;  marched  at  three  quarters  past 
nine  o'clock,  on  the  Spanish  road.  Encamped,  sun  an 
hour  high,  after  having  made  16  miles  [opposite  Kinsley, 
Edwards  Co.'""]. 

forks  ....  and  one  branch  follows  near  by  the  windings  of  the  Arkansas,  to 
secure  grass  and  water,  while  the  other  appears  to  push  off  for  a  '  short  cut '  and 
■  dry  route  '  to  Fort  Atkinson,  near  which  they  again  unite  on  the  Arkansas 
river  ;  but  this  appearance  is  deceptive  ;  for  after  going  a  few  miles  it  turns 
abruptly  southward,  and  follows  but  a  few  miles  from,  and  parallel  with,  the 
other  road,  keeping  it  generally  in  sight,  as  it  does  also  the  trees  and  sand-hills 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas  river,  and  is,  except  in  the  rainy  season,  with- 
out good  grass  and  badly  watered."  The  air-line  distance  of  the  "  dry  route," 
from  the  point  where  Pike  is  now  to  Dodge  City,  is  about  54  m. ;  the  actual 
travel  is  nearer  60.  The  ground  passed  over  is  that  sometimes  watered  by  the 
Coon  creeks,  and  the  road  coincides  to  some  extent  with  that  now  traversed  by 
the  A.,  T.  and  S.  F.  R.  R.  Of  late  the  face  of  the  country  has  been  modified 
by  the  Eureka  Irrigating  Canal,  which  starts  from  the  Arkansaw  at  Ingalls,  hugs 
the  river  more  or  less  closely  to  the  bluffs  below  Dodge  City,  and  then  starts  off 
across  country  in  the  direction  of  Spearville  and  Kinsley. 

"  Pike  camps  to-night  about  opposite  Garfield,  a  railroad  station  and  small 
vill.age  on  the  left  or  N.  W.  bank  of  the  river.  lie  started  up  on  that  side 
(having  the  river  to  his  left),  but  crossed  over  on  the  30th,  and  will  continue 
the  whole  way  to  Pueblo  up  the  right  bank,  having  the  river  on  his  right. 
The  general  course  of  the  river  being  from  W.  to  E.,  its  right  bank  is  on 
the  S.,  and  thus  N.  of  Pike. 

'"  Kinsley,  county  seat  of  Edwards,  is  something  of  a  town  in  these  parts, 
situated  a  mile  or  two  \V.  of  the  river  on  that  one  of  the  Coon  creeks  which 
runs  oftener  than  the  other  one  does,  and  which,  when  it  has  any  water  to  dis- 


KIOWA  COUNTY — FORD   COUNTY.  435 

We  observed  this  day  a  species  of  crystallization  on  the 
road,  when  the  sun  was  high,  in  low  places  where  there 
had  been  water  settled ;  on  tasting  it  found  it  to  be  salt ; 
this  gave  in  my  mind  some  authenticity  to  the  report  of 
the  prairie  being  covered  for  leagues.  Discovered  the 
trace  of  about  20  savages  who  had  followed  our  road ;  and 
of  horses  going  down  the  river.  Killed  one  buffalo,  one 
elk,  one  deer. 

Nov.  1st.  Marched  early;  just  after  commencing  our 
line,  heard  a  gun  on  our  left.  The  doctor,  Baroney,  and 
myself  being  in  advance,  and  lying  on  the  ground  waiting 
for  the  party,  a  band  of  cabrie  came  up  among  our  horses, 
to  satisfy  their  curiosity ;  we  could  not  resist  the  tempta- 
tion of  killing  two,  although  we  had  plenty  of  meat.  At 
the  report  of  the  gun  they  appeared  astonished,  and  stood 
still  until  we  hallowed  [hallooed]  at  them  to  drive  them 
away.     Encamped  in  the  evening  on  an  island."" 

Upon  using  my  glass  to  observe  the  adjacent  country, 
I  observed  on  the  prairie  a  herd  of  horses.  Dr.  Robinson 
and  Baroney  accompanied  me  to  go  and  view  them  ;  when 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  they  discovered   us,  and  came 

charge,  falls  into  the  Arkansaw  at  Garfield,  after  skirting  the  river  for  many 
miles.  The  nomenclature  of  Big  and  Little  Coon  creeks  is  reversed  on  some 
maps.  I  find  that  I  was  camped  on  one  of  them,  24  m.  from  Fort  Larned, 
June  1st,  1864,  under  which  date  my  old  journal  calls  it  "  a  puddlesome  slough 
on  the  prairie."  Thirty  years  ago  it  was  good  buffalo  country,  and  consequently 
bad  Indian  country.  A  note  I  penciled  June  3d,  1864,  runs  thus  :  "Our  route 
since  leaving  Larned  has  been  mostly  along  the  north  bank  of  the  Arkansaw. 
Queer  river  that — a  great  ditch,  chock  full  of  grassy  islets,  stretching  through 
the  treeless  prairie  like  a  spotted  snake,  some  seasons  so  dry  you  can't  wet 
your  foot  in  it  for  miles,  and  have  to  dig  for  a  drink,  sometimes  a  raging 
flood  200  yards  wide.  Traveling  without  military  escort  is  risky.  The  Chey- 
ennes  are  on  the  rampage  ;  Comanches  and  Kiowas  too."  On  the  6th,  near- 
ing  Fort  Lyon,  we  passed  an  Indian  camp  ;  "  it  was  a  band  of  Arapahoes, 
at  war  with  the  Cheyennes." 

"  No  mile.age  for  to-d.ay.  By  Tike's  map.  camp  is  at  an  elbow  of  the  river, 
which  denotes  that  curve  the  Arkansaw  makes  in  passing  from  Ford  into  Kiowa 
Co.  There  is  no  place  to  name  in  this  vicinity,  and  the  best  maps,  on  a  scale 
of  2  m.  to  the  inch,  do  not  give  any  island  hereabouts.  We  will  allow  Pike 
16  m.,  and  set  camp  in  Ford  Co.,  just  over  the  border  of  Kiowa. 


436  WILD   HORSES— CAMP  AT  FORD. 

immediately  up  near  us,  making  the  earth  tremble  under 
them  ;  this  brought  to  my  recollection  a  charge  of  cavalry. 
They  stopped  and  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  view  them ; 
among  them  there  were  some  very  beautiful  bays,  blacks,  and 
grays,  and  indeed  of  all  colors.  We  fired  at  a  black  horse, 
with  an  idea  of  creasing"  him,  but  did  not  succeed;  they 
flourished  round  and  returned  again  to  see  us,  when  we 
returned  to  camp. 

Sunday,  Nov.  2d.  In  the  morning,  for  the  purpose  of 
trying  the  experiment,  we  equipped  six  of  our  fleetest 
coursers  with  riders  and  ropes,  to  noose  the  wild  horses,  if 
in  our  power  to  come  among  the  band.  They  stood  until 
we  came  within  forty  yards  of  them,  neighing  and  whin- 
neying,  when  the  chase  began,  which  we  continued  about 
two  miles,  without  success.  Two  of  our  horses  ran  up  with 
them  ;  but  we  could  not  take  them.  Returned  to  camp. 
I  have  since  laughed  at  our  folly;  for  taking  wild  horses 
in  that  manner  is  scarcely  ever  attempted,  even  with  the 
fleetest  horses  and  most  expert  ropers.  See  my  account  of 
wild  horses  and  the  manner  of  taking  them,  in  my  disserta- 
tion on  the  province  of  Texas.  Marched  late.  Killed  one 
buffalo.  River  turned  to  north  by  west.  Hills  changed  to 
the  north  side.     Distance  13^^  miles."' 

Nov.  jd.     Marched   at    ten    o'clock.     Passed   numerous 

"To  "  crease  "  a  horse  is  to  hit  him  with  a  bullet  somewhere  along  the  nape 
of  the  neck,  close  enough  to  the  cervical  vertebroe  to  stun  him  by  the  shock  to 
the  spinal  cord,  or  to  the  ligamentum  nuchrc,  yet  not  to  inflict  permanent 
injury.  When  this  is  nicely  clone  the  horse  falls  as  if  killed,  and  is  roped 
before  he  recovers.  But  it  takes  a  very  good  shot,  like  "driving  the  nail," 
"snuffing  the  candle,"  "  barking  the  squirrel,"  and  other  feats  of  skill  which 
our  backwoodsmen  used  to  practice. 

"  Since  he  left  Great  Bend,  Pike  has  had  hilly  country  continuously  on  his 
left,  with  only  a  very  narrow  river-bottom  on  that  side,  in  comparison  with  the 
breadth  of  the  low-lying  land  on  the  W.  or  N.  In  fact,  it  is  this  series  of 
countless  thousands  of  hills  and  hillocks  which  causes  the  deflection  of  the  river 
northward,  thus  making  the  "  great  bend."  The  place  where  the  change  occurs, 
and  where  Pike  camps,  is  at  Ford,  a  town  in  the  county  of  that  name,  on  the  S. 
bank  of  the  Arkansaw,  or  rather  on  the  E.  and  S.  bank  of  Mulberry  cr. 
a  stream  from  the  S.  W.,  which  winds  around  the  town  on  the  W.  and  N.,  and 


FORT  DODGE — DODGE   CITY — THE   CACHES.  437 

herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  some  horses,  etc.,  all  traveling  south. 
The  river  bottoms  full  of  salt  ponds  ;  grass  similar  to  our 
salt  meadows.     Killed  one  buffalo.     Distance  2^,%  miles." 

f.ills  into  the  Arkansaw  a  mile  or  so  lower  do\vn.  A  branch  of  the  Chic,  Kas., 
and  Neb.  R.  R.  runs  through  Ford  from  Bucklin  to  Dodge  City,  Ensign,  and 
Montezuma. 

"  Taking  Pike  past  the  site  of  old  Fort  Dodge  and  of  present  Dodge  City, 
nearly  to  the  boundary  between  Ford  and  Gray  cos. — say  halfway  from  Dodge 
to  Cimarron,  and  thus  about  opp.  Howell  station  of  the  A.,  T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R. 
Dodge  started  on  the  N.  bank,  but  has  overgrown  the  river,  and  is  now  built 
up  on  both  sides,  with  two  bridges  across.  Dodge  is  17  m.  by  rail  above  Ford, 
anil  almost  exactly  on  the  looth  meridian — probably  some  of  the  houses  are  built 
on  each  side  of  this  line  of  longitude.  At  or  near  Dodge  were  the  long-noted 
"  Caches,"  of  which  most  of  the  early  travelers  speak,  but  which  seem  to  have 
been  latterly  lost  sight  of.  I  cannot  locate  the  exact  spot,  but  it  ought  to  be 
easily  recoverable  by  those  who  have  the  data  I  happen  to  lack.  The  place 
used  to  be  spoken  of  as  near  the  meridian  just  said — though  that  does  not  help 
us  at  all,  as  the  maps  of  those  days  were  mostly  30'  out  of  the  way  in  longitudes. 
Thus,  even  Gunnison  and  Beckwith's  route-map  of  1853  runs  the  line  E.  of  the 
mouth  of  Mulberry  cr.  where  Ford  now  stands,  and  thus  about  99°  40'.  Gregg's 
is  much  closer  than  this,  though  it  is  on  a  much  smaller  scale  ;  his  looth  line  nnis 
michv.ay  betwixt  the  mouth  of  Mulberry  cr.  and  the  "Caches."  Wislizenus' 
route-map,  accompanying  his  report  to  Congress  (Senate  Misc.  Doc.  No.  26, 
30th  Congr.,  1st  Bess.,  pub.  1848)  is  closer  still  ;  for  the  "  Caches  "  are  marked 
scarcely  W.  of  100°.  Wislizenus  gives  us  another  clew,  as  he  marks  "  Fort 
Mann  "  at  the  "  Caches."  The  "  Caches"  were  also  about  the  place  where  the 
dry  cut-off,  described  in  note  "  above,  reached  the  Arkansaw — in  short,  every- 
thing points  to  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Fort  Dodge  as  the  place  where  these 
caches  were  located.  "  The  history  of  the  origin  of  these  '  Caches'  may  be  of 
sufficient  interest  to  merit  a  brief  recital,"  as  Gregg  says,  Comm.  Pra.  I.  1844, 
p.  67,  where,  and  on  p.  19,  we  have  the  accoimt.  In  1812  was  fitted  out  the 
first  expedition  which  attempted  to  reach  Santa  Fe  by  following  the  account  of 
Pike's  journey  now  before  us.  This  consisted  of  about  a  dozen  men,  among 
them  two  named  Beard  and  Chambers,  who  had  succeeded  in  reaching  Santa  Fe 
with  the  others,  and  had  returned  to  the  United  States  in  1822  (Chambers  h.id 
done  so  by  way  of  the  Canadian  r.).  These  two  interested  some  St.  Louis 
capitalists  to  join  an  enterprise  in  the  Santa  Fe  trade,  and  then  undertook  to 
return  to  Santa  Fe  in  the  fall  of  1822  with  a  small  party  and  an  assortment  of 
merchandise,  "  Reaching  the  Arkansas  late  in  the  season,  they  were  overtaken 
by  a  heavy  snowstorm,"  and  driven  to  take  shelter  on  a  large  island.  A  rigorous 
winter  ensued,  which  forced  them  to  remain  pent  up  in  that  place  for  three  long 
months.  During  this  time  the  greater  part  of  their  animals  perished  ;  so  that, 
when  the  spring  began  to  open,  they  were  unable  to  continue  their  journey  with 
their  goods.     In  this  emergency  they  made  a  cache  some  distance  above,  on  the 


438  RECOVERY  NOTED— CIMARRON — INGALLS. 

Nov.  4th.  This  day  brought  to  our  recollection  the  fate 
of  our  countrymen  at  Recovery,"'  when  defeated  by  the 
Indians,  in  the  year  1791.  In  the  afternoon  discovered  the 
north  side  of  the  river  to  be  covered  with  animals  ;  which, 
when  we  came  to  them,  proved  to  be  buffalo  cows  and 
calves.  I  do  not  think  it  an  exaggeration  to  say  there  were 
3,CXX)  in  one  view.  It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  in  all  the 
extent  of  country  yet  crossed,  we  never  saw  one  cow,  and 
that  now  the  face  of  the  earth  appeared  to  be  covered  with 
them.     Killed  one  buffalo.     Distance  24^^  miles.^° 

north  side  of  the  river,  wliere  they  stowed  away  most  of  their  merchandize. 
From  thence  they  proceeded  to  Taos,  where  they  procured  mules,  and  returned 
to  get  their  hidden  property.  Few  travelers  pass  this  way  without  visiting  these 
mossy  pits,  many  of  which  remain  partly  unfilled  to  the  present  day." 

'^  Alluding  to  the  terrible  defeat  of  General  Arthur  St.  Clair's  army  by  Indians 
on  a  branch  of  the  Wabash  r.,  in  present  Darke  Co.,  Ohio,  Nov.  4th,  1791. 
This  was  the  most  disastrous  Ijattle  ever  lost  by  the  whites  to  the  Indians,  sur- 
passing Braddock's  defeat  on  the  Monongahela  in  1755.  On  Dec.  25th,  1793, 
General  Anthony  Wayne,  who  had  become  commander-in-chief  in  1792,  and 
taken  command  of  the  Army  of  the  West,  sent  a  detachment  of  soldiers  to  take 
possession  of  the  field  where  General  St.  Clair  had  been  defeated,  built  a  fort 
there,  and  named  the  place  Recovery,  because  it  was  then  first  recovered  from 
the  Indians,  who  had  retained  possession  after  the  disaster  above  named.  June 
29th,  1794,  Gener.al  Wayne  sent  troops  with  supplies  to  Fort  Recovery  from 
Greenville,  where  he  was  then  stationed.  The  detachment  reached  the  fort  and 
deposited  its  supplies  in  safety,  but  was  immediately  attacked,  and  the  fort 
itself  was  invested  by  Indians,  assisted  by  whites  from  Canada.  The  battle 
raged  June  30th  and  July  1st,  when  the  assailants  were  repulsed,  not  without 
gieat  loss  on  our  side.  Among  those  who  fell  was  the  gallant  McMahon,  who 
had  commanded  the  expedition  to  Fort  Recovery.  For  further  information  see  : 
Howe's  Hist.  Coll.  Ohio,  under  head  of  Darke  Co.;  Burnet's  Notes  of  the 
N.  W.  Terr,,  chap,  vii  ;  Albach's  Annals  of  the  West,  p.  642.  Present  Fort 
Recovery  is  a  village  in  Mercer  Co.  O. ,  on  a  branch  of  the  Wabash  r. ,  close  to 
the  Iiidiana  State  line. 

'*  Camp  past  Cimarron  and  Ingalls,  but  not  far  W.  of  the  latter— 5  m.,  per- 
haps. These  are  two  towns  on  the  N.  bank,  respectively  18  and  26  m.  above 
Dodge  City.  Ingalls  is  the  seat  of  Gray  Co.  The  Amer.  Sp.  word  cimarron 
means  something  wild,  runaway,  or  unreclaimed,  Vik&maroon,  and  is  a[)plicable 
to  an  animal,  a  person,  a  place,  etc.  It  design.ated  the  wild  sheep  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  (Ovis  viontaiia),  gave  name  to  one  of  the  largest  branches  of  the 
Arkansaw,  and  was  early  associated  with  a  certain  route  from  the  Arkansaw  to 
Santa  Fe.  The  name  of  J.  J.  Ingalls  was  long  prominent  in  Kansas  ]iolitics 
and  in  national  statesmanship,  and   at   one  time  .associated  with   the  loo-true 


HALT  TO   HUNT  BUFFALO.  439 

Nov.  ^tJi.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour;  at  the  end  of  two 
miles  shot  a  buffalo  and  two  deer,  and  halted,  which  de- 
tained us  so  long  that  we  foolishly  concluded  to  halt  this 
day  and  kill  some  cows  and  calves,  which  lay  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  I  took  post  on  a  hill,  and  sent 
some  horsemen  over,  when  a  scene  took  place  which  gave 
a  lively  representation  of  an  engagement.  The  herd  of 
buffalo  being  divided  into  separate  bands  covered  the 
prairie  with  dust,  and  first  charged  on  the  one  side,  then  to 
the  other,  as  the  pursuit  of  the  horsemen  impelled  them ; 

statement  that  "  purity  in  politics  is  an  iridescent  dream."  Notwithstanding 
the  injunction  against  truth-telling  which  the  consequences  of  the  scholarly 
senator's  remark  imply,  I  wish  to  speak  as  accurately  as  possible  regarding  the 
points  at  which  the  Cimarron  route  left  the  Arkansaw.  There  were  two  of 
tliese  places,  both  of  which  Pike  passes  to-day,  where  the  river  was  forded,  and 
the  road  thus  crossed  from  the  N.  to  the  S.  bank.  These  became  known  as  the 
Lower  and  Upper  Crossings  of  the  Arkansaw  ;  they  were  8  m.  apart ;  the 
lower  one  was  iS  m.  and  the  upper  one  26  m.  above  Fort  Atkinson  ;  they  thus 
correspond  to  the  positions  of  Cimarron  and  Ingalls,  respectively.  The  river  is 
now  bridged  at  each  town.  The  Lower  Crossing  was  the  earlier  one,  most  used 
by  the  traders  from  1834  till  the  closing  of  the  Mexican  ports  in  1S43  ;  after 
the  war  the  Upper  Crossing  seems  to  have  been  generally  chosen.  Tlius,  we 
find  Gunnison  and  Beckwith  saying  in  1853,  P.  R.  R.  Rep.  IL  1855,  p.  26  : 
"Seventeen  miles  from  the  fort  [Atkinson]  there  is  a  ford,  sometimes  used  by 
the  trains  and  parties  going  to  and  from  New  Mexico  by  the  Cimmaron  \sic\ 
route  ;  but  the  principal  ford  for  that  route  is  8  m.  above  this."  Writing  of 
1846,  Dr.  Wislizenus  speaks  of  moving  "about  20  miles  "  up  the  Arkansaw 
from  the  Caches,  and  arriving  "  at  the  usual  fording  place,"  ;'.  e.,  the  lower  one. 
"This  track,"  says  Gregg,  Comm.  Pra.  L  1844,  p.  311,  "which  has  since 
remained  permanent,  was  made  in  the  year  1834.  Owing  to  continuous  rains 
during  the  passage  of  the  caravan  of  that  year  a  plain  trail  was  then  cut  in  the 
softened  turf,  on  the  most  direct  route  across  this  arid  desert,  leaving  the 
Arkansas  about  20  miles  above  the  '  Caches.'  This  has  ever  since  been  the 
regular  route  of  the  caravans  ;  and  thus  a  recurrence  of  those  distressing  suffer- 
ings from  thirst,  so  frequently  experienced  by  early  travellers  in  that  unhospita- 
ble  region,  has  been  prevented."  The  first  camp  S.  of  the  Arkansaw  was 
usually  made  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Sand  Hills,  at  a  place  called  the  Battle- 
ground after  1843,  in  w-hich  year  the  defeat  of  the  Mexicans  by  the  Texans 
under  Colonel  Snively  occurred  on  that  spot  ;  it  was  some  12-15  m.  from  the 
river.  The  roads  from  the  two  fords  came  together  at  no  great  distance  from 
the  Arkansaw  (perhaps  in  the  vicinity  of  Ulysses,  seat  of  Grant  Co.)  ;  having 
thus  headed  the  Crooked  Creek  branch  of  Cimarron,  the  road  crossed  Sandy  cr. 
not  far  above  its  confluence  with  the  Cimarron,  and  so  reached  that  river. 


440  riERCEVIT.LE— GARDEN   CITY — IIARLAND. 

the  report  and  smoke  from  the  cjuns  added  to  the  pleasure 
of  the  scene,  which  in  part  compensated  for  our  detention. 

Nov.  6th.  Marched  early,  but  was  detained  two  or  three 
hours  by  the  cows  which  we  killed.  The  cow  buffalo  was 
equal  to  any  meat  I  ever  saw,  and  we  feasted  sumptuously 
on  the  choice  morsels.  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  the 
droves  of  animals  we  now  saw  on  our  route  ;  sufiice  it  to 
say  that  the  face  of  the  prairie  was  covered  with  them,  on 
each  side  of  the  river;  their  numbers  exceeded  imagination. 
Distance  i6  miles.'' 

Nov.  yfh.  Marched  early.  The  herbage  being  very 
poor,  concluded  to  lay  by  on  the  morrow,  in  order  to  recruit 
our  horses.  Killed  three  cow  buffalo,  one  calf,  two  wolves, 
one  brelaw.     Distance  i8  miles.'"' 

No-i'.  Sth.  Our  horses  being  very  much  jaded  and  our 
situation  very  eligible,  we  halted  all  day ;  jerked  meat, 
mended  mockinsons,  etc. 

Sjuiday,  Nov.gtk.  Marched  early.  At  twelve  o'clock  struck 
the  Spanish  road,  which  had  been  on  the  outside  of  us,  and 
which  appeared  to  be  considerably  augmented.  On  our  ar- 
rival at  the  camp,  found  it  to  consist  of  96  fires,  from  which 
a  reasonable  conclusion  might  be  drawn  that  there  were 
from  600  to  700  men.  We  this  day  found  the  face  of  the 
country  considerably  changed,  being  hilly,  with  springs  ; 
passed  numerous  herds  of  buffalo  and  some  horses.  Dis- 
tance 27  miles."" 

"Past  Pierceville,  n  village  ami  station  on  the  A.,  T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R.,  just 
over  the  line  between  Gray  and  Finney  cos.;  camp  3  or  4  m.  short  of  Garden 
City,  seat  of  the  latter  county. 

■J8  pajf  Garden  City  and  Sherlock  ;  c.imp  on  or  near  the  boundary  between 
Finney  and  Kearney  cos.,  in  the  vicinity  of  Deerfield,  a  place  on  the  railroad. 
Most  of  the  older  maps  mark  hereabout  the  large  island  in  the  Arkansaw 
called  Chouteau's,  somewhat  W.  of  the  loist  meridian,  and  apparently  near 
Deerfield. 

■'Vicinity  of  Ilarland,  seat  of  Kearney  Co.  In  saying  that  the  Sp.inish 
road  had  been  "  on  the  outside  "  of  the  party,  Pike  gives  us  to  understand  that 
it  had  run  along  to  his  left,  a  little  further  from  the  river,  though  since  the  30th 
of  Oct.  he  had  been  .also  traveling  on  the  .S.  side  of  the  Arkansaw,  having 
thai  river  on  his  right.     Nevertheless,  tlie  map  marks  the  two  trails  as  identical, 


FROM  KANSAS  INTO  COLORADO.  44 1 

Nov.  loth.  The  hills  increased ;  the  banks  of  the  river 
covered  with  groves  of  young  Cottonwood  ;  the  river  itself 
much  narrower  and  crooked.  Our  horses  growing  weak ; 
two  gave  out ;  bring  them  along  empty;  cut  down  trees  at 
night  for  them  to  browse  on.  Killed  one  buffalo.  Distance 
20  miles."" 

Nov.  nth.  Marched  at  the  usual  hour.  Passed  two  old 
camps,  and  one  of  last  summer,  which  had  belonged  to  the 
savages,  and  we  supposed  Tetaus.  Passed  a  Spanish  camp 
where  it  appeared  they  remained  some  days,  as  we  conjec- 
tured, to  lay  up  meat,  previously  to  entering  the  Tetau 
country,  as  the  buffalo  evidently  began  to  grow  much  less 
numerous.  Finding  the  impossibility  of  performing  the 
voyage  in  the  time  proposed,  I  determined  to  spare  no  pains 
to  accomplish  every  object,  even  should  it  oblige  me  to 
spend  another  winter  in  the  desert.  Killed  one  buffalo,  one 
brelaw.     Distance  24  miles." 

Nov.  i2th.  Was  obliged  to  leave  the  two  horses,  which 
entirely  gave  out.  Missed  the  Spanish  road.  Killed  one 
buffalo.     Distance  20  miles."^ 

the  Spanish  camps  alternating  with  the  American  all  along.  There  has  been 
little  to  note  along  this  stretch  of  the  river,  where  no  stream  of  any  consequence 
falls  in  on  either  side.  Pike  here  remarks  a  change,  in  the  beginning  of  hilly 
country  ;  extensive  sand-hills  are  skirting  the  river  on  the  S. ,  in  Kearney  Co., 
and  thence  into  Hamilton. 

'^  Vicinity  of  Syracuse,  seat  of  Hamilton  Co. 

"  Last  day's  journey  in  Kansas,  passing  from  Hamilton  Co.,  over  the  inter- 
State  line,  into  Prowers  Co.,  Colorado.  Pike's  mileages  along  the  whole  course 
from  Great  Bend  are  remarkably  close.  I  designedly  ran  them  off  day  by  day, 
without  any  checking  by  known  positions,  to  see  when  he  would  strike  the 
inter-State  line,  about  5  m.  beyond  which  is  the  first  identifi.ible  named  stream  ; 
expecting  then  to  hark  back,  much  as  usual,  and  make  the  requisite  adjust- 
ments of  camps  by  proportionate  lengths  of  each.  But  I  find  no  occasion  for 
this  ;  his  own  mileages  fix  his  camp  of  the  nth  as  nearly  as  possible  on  the 
line,  and  we  have  three  identifiable  streams  in  the  course  of  his  m.arch  on  the 
I2th.  To-day's  camp  is  between  Coolidge,  Hamilton  Co.,  Kas.,  and  Hollys, 
Prowers  Co.,  Col.,  2  m.  W.  of  the  former,  4  m.  E.  of  the  latter,  in  lat.  38?  02' 
N.,  long.  102°  02'  W. 

"  In  Colorado  Pike  first  comes  opp.  Hollys,  a  village  on  the  N.  bank  and 
station  of  the  A.,  T. ,  and  S.  F.  R.  R.     Below  this  are  some  small  runs  on  the 


442  PROGRESS  IN  COLORADO. 

Nov.  ij;th.  Wc  marched  at  the  usual  hour.  The  river- 
banks  began  to  be  entirely  covered  with  woods  on  both 
sides,  but  no  other  species  than  cotton-wood.  Discovered 
very  fresh  signs  of  Indians,  and  one  of  our  hunters  informed 
me  he  saw  a  man  on  horseback,  ascending  a  ravine  on  our 
left.  Discovered  signs  of  war-parties  ascending  the  river. 
Wounded  several  buffalo.  Killed  one  turkey,  the  first  we 
have  seen  since  we  left  the  Pawnees.  [Supposed  distance 
12  miles."] 

Nov.  i^tk.     In  the  morning.  Dr.  Robinson,  one  man  and 

N.,  among  them  one  called  Cheyenne  cr. ;  and  Wild  Horse  cr.  falls  in  on  that 
side  a  mile  aljove  Hollys.  He  then  crosses  Two  Butte  cr.  ,amuch  larger 
stream,  from  the  S.,  arising  in  I.as  Animas  Co.  about  the  elevations  from 
which  it  takes  name,  running  through  the  N.  W.  corner  of  Baca  and  traversing 
Prowers  to  fall  in  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  Wild  Horse  cr.,  opposite  the  large 
island  there.  Continuing,  Pike  crosses  Granada  cr.,  from  the  S.,  whicli  falls  in 
where  the  railroad  crosses  the  Arkansaw  and  runs  into  the  station  named  Adana. 
If  he  held  straight  on  the  best  road,  keeping  to  the  left  of  the  extensive  bottoms 
along  here,  he  went  through  the  present  sites  of  Granada,  a  village  4  m.  W.  of 
Adana,  on  Wolf  cr.,  and  of  Manville,  a  station  2  m.  further  along.  Camp  was 
set  about  halfway  between  Manville  and  Carlton,  a  place  4  m.  beyond.  Sev- 
eral runs  or  washes  make  in  along  here  on  each  side,  but  seldom  carry  as  much 
water  as  the  ditches  which  have  been  brought  from  the  Arkansaw  through 
and  by  Granada.  Pike  charts  Two  Butte  cr.,  and  one  that  answers  either  to 
Granada  or  Wolf  cr. :  notice  the  pair  he  lays  down,  S.,  with  the  legend  "  Cot- 
ton Wood  becomes  frequent  "  lettered  across  Two  Butte  cr. 

The  Wild  Horse  cr.  above  mentioned  appears  on  Gregg's  map  by  the  name 
of  "  Lit.  Sand  Cr." 

"  No  mileage  to-day  ;  and  the  omission  is  not  easily  supplied.  On  the  15th 
Pike  camps  at  the  mouth  of  Purgatory  r.,  and  it  took  him  34  m.  by  his  reckon- 
ing to  get  there  from  his  camp  of  the  13th.  Therefore,  camp  of  the  13th  was 
about  12  m.  from  that  of  the  12th,  and  thus  within  a  mile  or  two  of  Lamar.  I 
shall  so  suppose  it  to  have  been.  This  sets  Pike  past  the  "point  of  red  rocks 
and  one  large  [Big  Sandy]  creek,"  which  he  speaks  of  as  having  passed  on  the 
14th,  but  it  agrees  with  the  map,  which  sets  a  camp-mark  for  the  13th  past 
Big  Sandy  cr.  There  is  evidently  a  confusion  of  the  record  of  the  13th  and 
14th,  perhaps  in  the  flurry  of  the  Indian  sign  ;  all  things  considered,  1  shall 
set  camp  of  the  13th,  hypothctically,  2  m.  short  of  Lamar  :  and  that  of  the 
14th  at  the  station  Prowers,  10  m.  further  ;  whence  it  is  about  24  m.  for  the 
15th  to  Purgatory  r.  The  points  passed  on  the  13th  and  14th  .are  most  con- 
veniently discussed  together  :  see  next  note.  The  site  of  Fort  Aubrey  (named 
for  or  by  V .  X.  Aubrey?),  on  the  N.  bank,  was  probably  passed  on  the  13th. 


PROGRESS  IN  COLORADO.  443 

myself,  went  up  the  ravine  in  which  the  man  was  supposed 
to  have  been  seen,  but  could  make  no  important  discovery. 
Marched  at  two  o'clock  ;  passed  a  point  of  red  rocks  and 
one  large  creek."     Distance  10  miles. 

Nov.   istli.     Marched   early.     Passed   two  deep    creeks" 

"From  his  camp  of  the  12th  Pike  passes  the  village  and  station  Carlton,  op- 
posite which  the  small  Cottonwood  cr.  falls  in  from  the  N.,  and  proceeds  to  his 
own  "  large  creek  "  and  "  point  of  rocks."  This  stream  is  Big  Sandy  cr.,  from 
the  N.;  Pike  lays  it  down  very  well.  It  is  quite  a  river  or  river-bed,  which 
when  it  runs  drains  from  the  high  country  known  as  the  Arkansaw  Divide,  sc. 
between  Arkansan  and  Missourian  waters,  in  El  Paso,  Elbert,  and  Lincoln  cos. 
The  stream  further  traverses  Cheyenne  and  Kiowa  cos.,  and  seeks  the  Arkan- 
saw in  Prowers  Co.,  2  or  3  m.  below  the  point  of  rocks  Pike  notices.  This  is 
a  place  where  a  bold  headland  abuts  against  the  river  on  the  south,  rising  rap- 
idly from  3,575  to  more  than  3,800 — that  is,  some  300  feet  above  the  general  level 
of  the  river  bottom.  A  run  known  as  Clay  cr.  comes  around  the  bluff  on  the  W. 
The  ne.\t  above  is  Willow  cr.,  S.,  on  which  Lamar  stands  between  irrigating 
ditches  derived  from  the  Arkansaw,  and  the  next  above  is  Dry  cr.,  S.,  halfway 
between  Lamar  and  Prowers  station.  Here  is  camp  of  the  14th,  just  over  the 
border  of  Prowers,  in  Bent  Co.  Pike's  map  legends  "Broken  with  small 
Ravines  &  Creeks  "  on  the  country  passed  over. 

''  This  statement  conflicts  with  Pike's  map,  which  lays  down  only  one  stream 
between  the  two  camp-marks  that  stand  for  the  14th  and  15th.  But  the  text 
is  right,  and  bath  these  camp-marks  are  misplaced.  One  belongs  just  below 
Mud  cr. ,  and  the  other  at  Purgatory  r. ,  where  there  is  no  sign  of  one,  though 
this  is  the  most  exactly  locatable  station  since  we  left  Great  Bend.  Pike's 
"  two  deep  creeks  "  are  Mud  and  Caddoa  ;  his  "  many  points  of  rocks  "  appear 
on  any  good  topographical  map.  There  is  a  series  of  such  between  Prowers 
and  Mud  cr. ,  on  the  S.,  opposite  which  Graveyard  cr.  falls  in,  N.  Two  very 
notable  points  of  rocks,  a  mile  apart,  are  separated  by  Caddoa  cr. ;  and 
Limestone  cr.  falls  in  from  the  N.,  2  or  3  m.  below  these.  These  bluffs  ex- 
tend to  the  village  of  Caddoa,  2  m.  up,  in  a  bottom  left  by  their  recession  from 
the  river,  before  they  again  close  in  on  the  river  in  two  bold  headlands,  I  or  2 
m.  above  Caddoa.  The  country  on  the  N.,  across  the  river,  is  also  bluffy  for 
several  miles  along  here.  The  elevations  close  to  the  river  are  3,800  to  3,900 
feet,  and  higher  furtlier  back  on  both  sides.  Above  the  Caddoan  bluffs  a 
creek  which  I^ike  charts  falls  on  the  S.  This  is  lettered  Blue  cr.  on  late  G.  L. 
O.  maps,  and  Rule  cr.  on  those  of  Hayden  and  Powell.  Caddoa  cr.  heads 
about  the  N.  W.  corner  of  Baca  Co.,  and  takes  a  northerly  course  to  the  Ar- 
kansaw ;  Blue  or  Rule  cr.  is  the  larger  one  of  the  two  ;  some  of  its  affluents 
are  near  those  of  Caddoa  and  upper  reaches  of  Two  Butte  cr.,  about  Shell  Rock 
cafion  in  Baca  Co.,  but  its  real  source  is  further  south  in  Las  Animas  Co., 
where  Johnny  cr.  and  others  head.  Its  course  is  northerly,  but  with  an  east- 
ward trend,   about  parallel   with  Purgatory  r.      About  an  hour    before    Pike 


444  THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS  SIGHTED. 

and  many  high  points  of  rocks ;  also,  large  herds  of 
buffalo. 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  I  thought  I  could  dis- 
tinguish a  mountain  to  our  right,  which  appeared  like  a 
small  blue  cloud  ;  viewed  it  with  the  spy  glass,  and  was  still 
more  confirmed  in  my  conjecture,  yet  only  communicated 
it  to  Dr.  Robinson,  who  was  in  front  with  me ;  but  in  half 
an  hour  they  appeared  in  full  view  before  us.  When  our 
small  party  arrived  on  the  hill  they  with  one  accord  gave 
three  cheers  to  the  Mexican  mountains."  Their  apjDear- 
ance  can  easily  be  imagined  by  those  who  have  crossed  the 
Alleghenies ;  but  their  sides  were  whiter,  as  if  covered  with 
snow,  or  a  white  stone.  Those  were  a  spur  of  the  grand 
western  chain  of  mountains  which  divide  the  waters  of  the 
Pacific  from  those  of  the  Atlantic  ocean ;  and  it  [the  spur] 
divides  the  waters  which  empty  into  the  Bay  of  the  Holy 
Spirit  from  those  of  the  Mississippi,  as  the  Alleghenies  do 
those  which  discharge  themselves  into  the  latter  river  and 
the  Atlantic.  They  appear  to  present  a  natural  boundary 
between  the  province  of  Louisiana  and  New  Mexico,  and 
would  be  a  defined  and  natural  boundary. 

reached  this  large  river  he  passed  opposite  the  place  where  Fort  Lyon  was  later 
built,  on  the  bluff  around  which  the  Arkansaw  there  sweeps  closely.  In  1 864 
Lyon  was  the  first  inhabited  place  on  the  Arkansaw  west  of  Larned,  though 
there  had  been  trading-posts  or  certain  other  temporary  dwellings  at  various 
points,  especially  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Big  Timbers,  say  12  m.  E.  of  Fort 
Lyon.  These  were  a  large  body  of  cottonwoods  extending  thence  several  miles 
down  the  river  on  its  N.  side,  and  formed  a  noted  resort  of  various  Indian 
tribes.  Hence  the  woods  became  well  known  to  travelers  along  the  Arkansaw, 
whose  itineraries  almost  always  speak  of  the  "  Big  Timbers  "  as  they  approach 
the  Purgatory  on  their  way  to  Bent's  fort.  Pike's  text  of  the  13th  is  no  doubt 
the  earliest  indication  of  these  woods. 

Gregg's  map  lays  down  three  large  creeks  from  the  .S.  between  his  Big  Sand 
cr.  and  Purgatory  r.  The  first  of  these  is  called  Mulberry  ;  the  other  two  are 
nameless.  The  three  appear  to  correspond  to  the  Mud,  Caddoa,  and  Blue  creeks 
just  described. 

"The  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mts.,  with  Pike's  Peak  towering  to  the 
right :  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  1893,  p.  328.  Pike  has  before  him  the  Front  range 
of  the  Rockies,  nortliward,  or  to  the  right  ;  and  southward,  or  to  the  left,  the 
Sangre  de  Cristo  range.     The  sources  of  Arkansan  waters  are  between  these  ; 


PURGATORY   RIVER.  445 

Before  evening  we  discovered  a  fork  [Purgatory  river]  on 
the  south  side  bearing  S.  25"  W.;  and  as  the  Spanish  troops 
appeared  to  have  borne  up  it,  we  encamped  on  its  banks, 
about  one  mile  from  its  confluence,  that  we  might  make 
further  discoveries  on  the  morrow.  Killed  three  buffalo. 
Distance  24  miles." 

Sunday,  Nov.  i6th.  After  ascertaining  that  the  Spanish 
troops  had  ascended  the  right  branch  or  main  river,  we 
marched  at  two  o'clock.  The  Arkansaw  appeared  at  this 
place  to  be  much  more  navigable  than  below,  where  we 
first  struck  it ;  and  for  any  impediment  I  have  yet  discov- 
ered in  the  river,  I  would  not  hesitate  to  embark  in  Feb- 
ruary at  its  mouth  and  ascend  to  the  Mexican  mountains, 
with  crafts  properly  constructed.     Distance  11^  miles.'" 

while  on  the  other  side  of  tlie  last  named  range  are  those  of  the  Rio  Grande. 
The  "  cheers  to  the  Mexican  mountains  "  were  given  at  an  alt.  of  3,900  feet. 

"  Purgatory  r.,  also  called  in  English  Picket-wire,  in  French  Riviere  Purga- 
toire,  and  in  Spanish  Rio  Purgatorio  and  Rio  de  Las  Animas,  is  charted  by 
Pike  as  the  "  1st  Fork,"  with  the  legend  "  Here  the  Mountains  are  first  seen." 
This  very  large  branch  or  fork  of  the  Arkansaw  heads  in  that  southward  con- 
tinuation of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  which  is  known  as  the  Culebra  range, 
about  Trinchera,  Culebra,  and  other  peaks,  where  it  connects  with  sources  of 
the  Rio  Culebra,  a  tributary  of  the  upper  Rio  Grande.  Its  own  tributaries  are 
very  numerous  and  extensive.  The  main  river  runs  N.  E.  from  I. as  Animas 
Co.,  through  the  S.  E.  corner  of  Otero  Co.,  and  joins  the  Arkansaw  in  Bent  Co., 
between  the  site  of  Fort  Lyon  and  that  of  Las  Animas,  present  county  seat  of 
Bent.  Pike  camped  where  the  railroad  now  crosses  ;  and  his  journey  since  the 
I2th  has  been  practically  along  the  present  railroad  line. 

'*  It  is  certain  that  Pike  was  on  Purgatory  r.  on  the  15th,  and  certain 
that  he  did  not  reach  his  "  Grand  Forks  "  (present  site  of  Pueblo,  at  junction 
of  Fountain  r.)  till  evening  of  the  23d.  The  distance  between  these  points, 
along  the  river,  is  between  90  and  100  m.  Pike's  ostensible  mileages  are  :  for 
the  i6th,  11)4,  ;  17th,  23^^  ;  iSth  and  iqth,  none  ;  20th,  i3  ;  21st,  21  ;  22d, 
17  ;  and  23d,  19  ;  total,  no  m.  We  have,  therefore,  to  reduce  these  mileages 
by  about  one  day's  journey.  Observe,  also,  that  only  four  camps  are  marked 
for  the  iGth-22d  ;  there  should  hit  five,  and  with  that  for  the  23d,  six.  Thus 
the  text  and  map  do  not  agree,  and  some  error  is  evident,  thougli  what  it  is  we 
have  no  means  of  deciding  with  confidence.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the 
difficulty  lies  at  the  start  from  the  "  ist  Fork"  (Purgatory  r.),  when  so  much  of 
the  day  was  occupied  in  searching  for  the  Spanish  trail,  and  the  "  ii}4"  in- 
assigned  may  have  been  little  if  any  actual  advance.  If  we  proceed  upon  this 
supposition,   there  will   be  no  trouble  in  adjusting  mileages  to  bring    in  the 


446  bent's  old  fort. 

Nov.  lyth.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour ;  pushed  on  with 
an  idea  of  arriving  at  the  mountains,  but  found  at  night  no 
visible  difference  in  their  appearance  from  what  we  did  yester- 
day. One  of  our  horses  gave  out  and  was  left  in  a  ravine, 
not  being  able  to  ascend  the  hill ;  but  I  sent  back  for  him 
and  had  him  brought  to  the  camp.     Distance  2y/2  miles.'" 

missing  camp  by  the  20th  ;  after  which  all  possible  error  is  removed  by  the 
identifiable  points.  I  shall,  therefore,  set  camp  of  the  i6th  scarcely  above  the 
mouths  of  Adobe  and  Horse  (formerly  Dry)  creeks,  which  fall  in  close  together 
on  the  north,  7  and  S  m.  above  Turgatory  r.  Neither  of  these  is  noticed  by  Pike, 
though  each  is  larger  than  some  of  the  streams  he  charts.  But  they  were  across 
the  river,  and  Pike  had  a  bad  case  of  Spanish  trail  on  the  brain,  aggravated  by 
anxiety  about  Indian  sign. 

''  The  mileage  hardly  requires  any  adjustment,  from  the  position  I  have 
assigned  for  the  i6th,  to  set  camp  of  the  17th  in  the  close  vicinity  of  Rocky 
Ford,  a  village  and  station  on  the  railroad,  where  Pike  remains  on  the  iSth  and 
igth.  Rocky  Ford  is  5  m.  above  Timpas  cr.  (which  he  charts  as  the  first 
stream  from  the  left  above  his  "  1st  Fork").  Timpas  or  Timpa  is  a  large 
creek  which  heads  in  Las  Animas  Co.  and  runs  N.  N.  E.  into  the  Arkansaw  at 
the  upper  point  of  that  very  large  island  above  La  Junta. 

The  most  notable  point  passed  to-day  is  the  historic  site  of  Bent's  old  fort,  on 
the  N.  bank  of  the  Arkansaw,  7  or  8  m.  E.  of  the  Timpas.  It  was  a  position 
of  great  consequence  in  the  days  of  staging  from  Fort  Leavenworth  and  other 
points  on  the  Missouri  to  Taos,  Santa  Fe,  and  other  New  Mexican  places. 
Most  of  the  early  itineraries,  both  commercial  and  military,  speak  of  Bent's  fort, 
and  the  advantages  of  this  location  for  a  post  were  more  than  once  urged  upon  the 
attention  of  the  War  Department.  It  was  on  an  emigrant  road,  in  the  heart  of 
an  Indian  country  overrun  with  various  tribes  ;  was  a  sort  of  focus  for  several 
widely  divergent  termini ;  was  in  the  vicinity  of  good  building  material,  and  had 
plenty  of  fuel,  grass,  and  water.  Mr.  Bent  himself  destroyed  it  in  1849,  when 
he  abandoned  it  for  sufficient  reasons ;  but  some  of  the  chimneys  and  adobe 
walls  long  stood  to  mark  the  spot.  Thus  it  was  Bent's  "  old"  fort  when  1 
passed  by,  about  30  years  ago.  Gregg's,  Wislizenus',  and  in  fact  most  maps  of 
the  period  mark  the  fort,  some  of  them  giving  also  a  certain  Fort  William 
alongside  it.  The  structure  is  described  as  "  quite  complete  "  by  Lieut.  J.  W. 
Abert,  who  was  here  in  August,  1846,  at  which  time  he  met  such  noted  plains- 
men as  Capt.  Walker  of  California  renown,  Marcellus  St.  Vrain,  and  "  liill  " 
Garey.  Col.  Price's  regiment  was  here  about  the  same  time.  The  several 
columns  of  Gen.  S.  W.  Kearny's  Army  of  the  West,  which  invaded  and  subju- 
g.ated  New  Mexico  and  California,  coming  from  Fort  Leavenworth  by  the 
Arkansaw  route,  concentrated  in  camp  a  few  miles  below  the  fort,  Aug.  1st, 
1846.  Kit  Carson  knew  the  place  well,  and  Fremont  found  him  not  far 
away  from  here  in  July,  1843.  A  view  of  Bent's  fort  as  it  appeared  in  1846  is 
given  by  John  T.  Hughes,  in  his  .admirable   Doniphan's  Expedition,  Svo,  Cin- 


THE   OLD   SANTA   FE   ROUTE   NOTED.  447 

Nov.  iSth.  As  we  discovered  fresh  signs  of  the  savages, 
we  concluded  it  best  to  stop  and  kill  some  meat,  for  fear  we 
should  get  into  a  country  where  we  could  not  kill  game. 
Sent  out  the  hunters ;  walked  myself  to  an  eminence 
whence  I  took  the  courses  to  the  different  mountains,  and  a 
small  sketch  of  their  appearance.  In  the  evening,  found  the 
hunters  had  killed  without  mercy,  having  slain  17  buffalo 
and  wounded  at  least  20  more. 

Nov.  igth.  Having  several  buffalo  brought  in,  gave  out 
sufficient  to  last  this  month.  I  found  it  expedient  to  re- 
main and  dry  the  meat,  as  our  horses  were  getting  very 
weak,  and  the  one  died  which  was  brought  up  on  the  17th. 
Had  a  general  feast  of  marrow-bones,  136  of  them  furnish- 
ing the  repast. 

Nov.  20th.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour  ;  but  as  our  horses' 
loads  were  considerably  augmented  by  the  death  of  one 
horse  and  the  addition  of  900  lbs.  of  meat,  we  moved  slowly 
and  made  only  18  miles."  Killed  two  buffalo  and  took 
some  choice  pieces. 

cinnati,  1847,  p.  35.  The  old  route  into  Santa  Fe  left  the  Arkansaw  dose  by 
Bent's  fort,  went  S.  W.  between  Purgatory  r.  and  Timpas  cr.,  struck  the  latter 
at  a  place  then  as  now  called  Iron  Springs,  and  so  on  through  the  Raton 
mts.,  not  very  different  from  the  way  the  A.,  T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R.  now  takes. 
A  glimpse  at  the  kind  of  a  road  this  used  to  be  is  had  from  the  following  extract 
from  my  diary  ;  "  Tuesday,  June  -jth,  1864.  Bent's  old  fort.  Cold  ride  in 
the  rain  from  3  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.,  when  we  brought  up  at  the  fort.  Here  was 
our  crossing  of  the  Arkansaw.  Recent  hard  rains  made  the  river  unfordable  ; 
so  we  had  to  ferry  ourselves  over  the  surging  tide  in  a  frail  skiff — ticklish  busi- 
ness. However,  we  got  safe  across,  with  all  our  worldly  goods — the  latter 
nothing  to  speak  of,  and  stood  shivering  while  the  ramshackled  hack  that  met 
us  on  the  other  side  was  loaded  and  hitched  up.  This  storm  and  the  ferri.age 
began  a  series  of  mishaps  that  reached  to  Fort  Stanton  in  New  Mexico,  and 
made  the  driver  swear  that  '  the  grace  of  God  had  petered  out  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Arkansaw.'     Kept  on  to  Iron  Springs  ;  road  miry,  pace  snaily." 

The  name  of  Bent's  Fort  is  preserved  as  that  of  a  place  nearly  opposite  (a  little 
above)  the  present  station  Robinson,  which  latter  is  exactly  on  the  boundary 
between  Bent  and  Otero  cos.  Above  this  is  La  Junta,  on  the  S.,  seat  of  the 
county.  Several  creeks  fall  in  on  the  S.  along  here,  the  largest  one  of  them 
named  Crooked  cr. 

■"■  Taking  the  Expedition  just  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Apishapa,  Apishipa, 
or  Apishpa  r.,  to  the   present  station   Rockdale.     This  stream  is  charted  by 


448  PAST  THE   APISHAPA. 

Nov.  2ist.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour ;  passed  two 
Spanish  camps,  within  three  miles  of  each  other.  We  again 
discovered  the  tracks  of  two  men,  who  had  ascended  the 
river  yesterday.  This  caused  us  to  move  with  caution  ; 
but  at  the  same  time  increased  our  anxiety  to  discover  them. 
The  river  was  certainly  as  navigable  here,  and  I  think  much 
more  so,  than  some  hundred  miles  below ;  which  I  suppose 
arises  from  its  flowing  through  a  long  course  of  sandy  soil, 
which  must  absorb  much  of  the  water,  and  render  it  shoaler 
below  than  above,  near  the  mountains.     Distance  21  miles." 

Pike  ;  a  camp-mark  is  set  just  above  it,  assuring  us  that  the  difficulty  we  had 
is  already  adjusted.  It  is  a  large  river,  or  rather  a  long-bedded  water-course 
(like  many  others  which  start  well,  but  run  out  in  the  thirsty  soil),  heading 
about  the  Spanish  Peaks,  and  reaching  the  Arkansaw  at  the  foot  of  Apishapa 
bluffs  (4,675  feet),  between  Rockdale  and  Catlin.  Three  miles  off,  across  the 
Arkansaw,  is  the  station  Olney  of  the  Mo.  Pac.  R.  R.,  which  here  comes  to 
the  river.  In  old  days  a  point  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Apishapa  was  a  good 
camp  on  the  Cherokee  trail  to  the  gold-diggings  on  Cheny  cr. ,  with  the  Huer- 
fano mountains  and  Spanish  Peaks  in  sight. 

*'To  a  point  on  the  river,  in  Pueblo  Co.,  between  Nepestaand  the  Huer- 
fano, short  of  which  river  Pike's  camp-mark  is  set.  Pike  charts  the  Huerfano 
as  his  "  and  Fork."  We  also  notice  that  he  marks  two  Spanish  camps,  O  O,  for 
the  day's  march,  as  called  for  by  the  text,  though  they  are  by  no  means  set 
down  "  within  three  miles  of  each  other."  Nepesta  is  only  a  hamlet  and  sta- 
tion, but  serves  to  mark  a  well-known  crossing  of  the  .'\rkansaw.  The  A.,  T., 
and  S.  F.  R.  R.  now  crosses  here,  meeting  the  Mo.  Pac.  R.  R.,  and  the  two 
tracks  run  together  into  Pueblo.  The  Huerfano  is  a  great  river,  which  heads 
in  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range,  among  the  mountains  of  the  Sierra  Blanca  range, 
and  by  various  other  affluents,  as  Muddy  cr.  and  others,  heading  in  the  very 
passes  of  the  Sangre  range  which  we  shall  have  to  discuss  when  Pike's  forlorn 
and  frostbitten  party  reaches  them.  Some  other  tributaries  drain  from  the 
W.  side  of  the  Wet  mts.  The  union  of  these  in  Huerfano  Park  starts 
the  river  out  of  the  mountains  by  Huerfano  pass  ;  in  the  plains  it  receives 
Cucharas  r.,  a  tributary  of  nearly  equal  sire,  from  further  S.,  and  their 
united  stream  seeks  the  Arkansaw  on  a  N.  E.  course.  A  place  called  Jackson 
is  on  the  river  near  its  mouth  ;  opposite,  across  the  Arkansaw,  is  Booneville. 

The  place  above  mentioned  by  the  name  Nepesta  reminds  me  to  say  that 
Rio  Napeste  was  a  Spanish  name  of  the  Arkansaw  r.  itself,  at  least  in  its  upper 
or  Colorado  reaches.  One  of  Pike's  own  maps  letters  "  Rio  de  Napesi,"  a 
phrase  reappearing  as  "  Rio  de  Nanesi  "  on  Lewis  and  Clark's  map  of  1S14  ; 
and  yet  other  forms  of  the  name  occur.  The  phrase  is  obviously  Spanish,  but 
the  word  itself  I  do  not  recognize  as  such — very  likely  it  is  derived  from  the 
Ute  Indian  language.  Humboldt's  map  letters  "  Rio  de  Napestle." 


AN  UNEXPECTED   RENCOUNTER.  449 

Nov.  22d.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour,  and  with  rather 
more  caution  than  usual.  After  having  marched  about  five 
miles  on  the  prairie,  we  descended  into  the  bottom — the 
front  only  "  ;  when  Baroney  cried  out  "  Voila  un  Savage  !  " 
We  observed  a  number  running  from  the  woods  toward  us  ; 
we  advanced  to  them,  and  on  turning  my  head  to  the  left 
I  observed  several  running  on  the  hill,  as  it  were  to  sur- 
round us ;  one  with  a  stand  of  colors.  This  caused  a 
momentary  halt ;  but  perceiving  those  in  front  reaching 
out  their  hands,  and  without  arms,  we  again  advanced  ; 
they  met  us  with  open  arms,  crowding  round  to  touch  and 
embrace  us.  They  appeared  so  anxious  that  I  dismounted 
from  my  horse;  in  a  moment  a  fellow  had  mounted  him 
and  was  off.  I  then  observed  that  the  doctor  and  Baroney 
were  in  the  same  predicament.  The  Indians  were  embrac- 
ing the  soldiers.  After  some  time  tranquillity  was  so  far 
restored,  they  having  returned  our  horses  all  safe,  as  to 
enable  us  to  learn  they  were  a  war-party  from  the  Grand 
Pawnees,  who  had  been  in  search  of  the  Tetaus ;  but  not 
finding  them,  were  now  on  their  return.  An  unsuccessful 
war-party,  on  their  return  home,  are  always  ready  to  em- 
brace an  opportunity  of  gratifying  their  disappointed 
vengeance  on  the  first  persons  whom  they  meet. 

Made  for  the  woods  and  unloaded  our  horses,  when  the 
two  partisans  endeavored  to  arrange  the  party ;  it  was  with 
great  difificulty  that  they  got  them  tranquil,  and  not  until 
there  had  been  a  bow  or  two  bent  on  the  occasion.  When 
in  some  order,  we  found  them  to  be  60  warriors,  half  with 
fire-arms,  and  half  with  bows,  arrows,  and  lances.  Our 
party  was  16  total.  In  a  short  time  they  were  arranged  in 
a  ring,  and  I  took  my  seat  between  the  two  partisans  ;  our 
colors  were    placed    opposite  each  other ;  the   utensils  for 

"  The  "  front  only,"  a  phrase  italicized  in  the  original,  means  that  only  the 
vanguard  of  the  army  met  the  insolent  Pawnees.  This  probably  consisted  of 
Pike,  Robinson,  and  Vasquez  ;  the  rest  of  the  invading  forces,  being  13  rank 
and  file,  main  column  and  rearguard  combined,  having  not  yet  come  up  to 
engage  the  enemy. 


450  PAWNEE   INSOLENCE. 

smoking  were  paraded  on  a  small  seat  before  us;  thus  far 
all  was  well.  I  then  ordered  half  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  one 
dozen  knives,  60  fire  steels,  and  60  flints  to  be  presented 
them.  They  demanded  ammunition,  corn,  blankets,  kettles, 
etc.,  all  of  which  they  were  refused,  notwithstanding  the 
pressing  instances  of  my  interpreter  to  accord  to  some 
points.  The  pipes  yet  lay  unmoved,  as  if  they  were  unde- 
termined whether  to  treat  us  as  friends  or  enemies;  but 
after  some  time  we  were  presented  with  a  kettle  of  water, 
drank,  smoked,  and  ate  together.  During  this  time  Dr. 
Robinson  was  standing  up  to  observe  their  actions,  in  order 
that  we  might  be  ready  to  commence  hostilities  as  soon  as 
they.  They  now  took  their  presents  and  commenced  dis- 
tributing them,  but  some  malcontents  threw  them  away,  by 
way  of  contempt. 

We  began  to  load  our  horses,  when  they  encircled  us 
and  commenced  stealing  everything  they  could.  Finding  it 
was  difficult  to  preserve  my  pistols,  I  mounted  my  horse, 
when  I  found  myself  frequently  surrounded  ;  during  which 
some  were  endeavoring  to  steal  the  pistols.  The  doctor 
was  equally  engaged  in  another  quarter,  and  all  the  soldiers 
in  their  positions,  in  taking  things  from  them.  One  having 
stolen  my  tomahawk,  I  informed  the  chief ;  but  he  paid  no 
respect,  except  to  reply  that  "  they  were  pitiful."  Finding 
this,  I  determined  to  protect  ourselves,  as  far  as  was  in  my 
power,  and  the  affair  began  to  take  a  serious  aspect.  I 
ordered  my  men  to  take  their  arms  and  separate  themselves 
from  the  savages ;  at  the  same  time  declaring  to  them  that 
I  would  kill  the  first  man  who  touched  our  baggage.  On 
which  they  commenced  filing  off  immediately  ;  we  marched 
about  the  same  time,  and  found  they  had  made  out  to  steal 
one  sword,  tomahawk,  broad-ax,  five  canteens,  and  sundry 
other  small  articles.  After  leaving  them,  when  I  reflected 
on  the  subject,  I  felt  myself  sincerely  mortified,  that  the 
smallness  of  my  number  obliged  me  thus  to  submit  to  the 
insults  of  lawless  banditti,  it  being  the  first  time  a  savage  ever 
took  anything  from  me  with  the  least  appearance  of  force. 


HUERFANO— ST.    CHARLES — FOUNTAIN   R.  45 1 

After  encamping  at  night  the  doctor  and  myself  went 
about  one  mile  back,  and  waylaid  the  road,  determined  in 
case  we  discovered  any  of  the  rascals  pursuing  us  to  steal 
our  horses,  to  kill  two  at  least ;  but  after  waiting  behind 
some  logs  until  some  time  in  the  night,  and  discovering  no 
person,  we  returned  to  camp.  Killed  two  buffalo  and  one 
deer.     Distance  17  miles." 

Sunday,  Nov.  2jd.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock;  at  one 
o'clock  came  to  the  third  fork  [St.  Charles  river],  on  the 
south  side,  and  encamped  at  night  in  the  point  of  the  grand 
forks  [confluence  of  Fountain  river].  As  the  river  appeared 
to  be  dividing  itself  into  many  small  branches,  and  of  course 
must  be  near  its  extreme  source,  I  concluded  to  put  the 
party  in  a  defensible  situation,  and  ascend  the  north  fork 
[p-ountain  river]to  the  high  point  [Pike's  Peak]  of  the  blue 
mountain  [Front  range],  which  we  conceived  would  be  one 
day's  march,  in  order  to  be  enabled,  from  its  pinical  [pin- 
nacle], to  lay  down  the  various  branches  and  positions  of 
the  country.     Killed  five  buffalo.     Distance  19  miles." 

**The  Huerfano  (Oqihan)  r.,  marked  "  2nd  Fork  "  on  Pike's  map,  is  passed 
to-day  without  remark — no  doubt  Pike  was  thinking  more  of  Pawnees  than  of 
geography.  In  consequence  of  the  fracas,  little  progress  was  made  ;  probably 
less  than  17  m.,  as  we  see  by  the  mileage  assigned  to  the  23d.  Camp  can  be 
set  little  if  any  beyond  the  site  of  old  Fort  Reynolds,  which  stood  on  the  S. 
bank  of  the  river,  about  opposite  the  mouth  of  lilack  Squirrel  or  Chico  cr. 
This  falls  in  from  the  N.,  on  a  course  parallel  with  that  of  Fountain  r.;  it  arises 
by  several  heads  in  the  Arkansaw  divide,  N.  E.  of  Colorado  Springs,  opposite 
he.ads  of  Kiowa  and  IJijou  creeks  (branches  of  the  South  Platte) ;  at  its  mouth 
is  Chico  sta.  (Nyburg),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Arkansaw,  12  m.  E.  of  Pueblo. 
Nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Huerfano  is  Booneville  ;  this  locality  used  to 
be  a  regular  camping-ground  on  the  old  Cherokee  trail,  and  here  was  a  ford 
across  the  Arkansaw,  opposite  Charles  Audebee's  (or  Autobee's)  house. 

■"Pike's  Third  Fork,  charted  "  3d  Fork,"  is  the  San  Carlos  or  St.  Charles  r. 
His  Grand  Forks  is  the  confluence  of  Fountain  r.  with  the  Arkansaw*  at 
present  city  of  Pueblo — perhaps  the  best  known  place  where  we  have  found 
him  since  the  Expedition  started.  The  Charles  arises  in  the  Wet  mts.,  where 
also  heads  its  main  branch,  called  Greenhorn  r.,  as  in  fact  the  Charles  itself 
often  used  to  be.  Their  streams  unite  in  the  prairie  8  m.  S.  of  Pueblo,  and 
fall  into  the  Arkansaw  7  m.  E.  of  that  city,  or  about  halfway  to  Fort  Reynolds. 
It  was  in  this  vicinity  that  the  old  Cherokee  trail  forked,  the  right-hand  road 
taking  up  toward  tlie  gold  diggings,  while  the  other  kept  on  to  Pueblo.     The 


452  IN   CAMT  AT   PUEBLO. 

Nov.  2^th.     Early  in  the  morning  we  cut  down  14  logs, 

Greenhorn  mt.,  about  which  the  San  Carlos  heads,  has  an  ascertained  altitude 
of  12,230  feet.  Fountain  r.  is  still  called  Fontaine  r.  by  those  who  prefer 
French  to  English,  and  used  to  be  more  elaborately  styled  La  Riviere  de  la 
Fontaine  qui  Bouille,  River  of  the  Boiling  Spring — not  that  the  water  is  hot, 
but  that  it  bubbles  as  it  wells  out  of  the  rocks,  as  if  it  were  boiling.  "  This 
spring,"  says  Marcy,  Pra.  Trav.  1859,  p.  300,  "  or,  rather,  springs,  as  there  are 
two,  both  of  which  boil  up  out  of  solid  rock,  are  among  the  greatest  natur.il 
curiosities  that  I  have  ever  seen.  The  water  is  strongly  impregnated  with  salts, 
but  is  delightful  to  the  taste,  and  somewhat  similar  to  the  Congress  water." 
P>ut  before  General  Marcy 's  time  the  springs  had  become  noted.  On  the  17th 
of  July,  1843,  they  were  visited  by  Fremont,  who  describes  them  at  length  in 
his  Rep.,  orig.  ed.  1845,  p.  117  ;  Mr.  Charles  Preuss,  of  his  party,  thought  the 
water  resembled  that  of  the  Seltzer  Springs  in  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Nassau. 
About  nine-tenths  of  the  solid  matters  in  solution  is  chalk.  When  I  was  at 
Manitou  Springs,  a  few  years  ago,  it  was  a  common  sight  to  see  people  in  the 
electric  cars  with  bottles  of  the  water,  which  had  already  become  an  extensively 
advertised  commercial  article.  Fountain  r.  has  also  its  Spanish  name  of  Rio 
Almagre  or  Almagra,  meaning  red  ocher  or  other  reddish  earth.  It  is  formed 
of  two  main  courses  which  head  about  Pike's  Peak  and  other  elevations  of  the 
same  outlying  (Front)  range  of  the  Rockies,  called  respectively  Fountain  and 
Monument  cr. ;  these  unite  at  Colorado  .Springs.  Monument  cr.,  coming 
southward  in  the  foothills,  is  composed  of  various  others,  called  Eeaver,  Dead 
Man's,  West  Monument,  Crystal,  etc.  Fountain  cr.,  which  comes  eastward 
from  Pike's  Peak  itself  and  that  vicinity,  seeks  the  plains  by  the  villages  of 
Manitou  Springs  and  Colorado  City,  and  the  city  of  Colorado  Springs  (seat  of 
El  Paso  Co.) — for  such  are  the  respective  designations  of  these  places,  now 
well  known  to  tourists  and  especially  valetudinarians.  At  Manitou  Springs  it 
receives  Ruxton  cr.,  through  Ingleman  caiion,  now  tr.aversed  by  the  cogwheel 
Manitou  and  Pike's  Pe.ik  R.  R.;  item,  it  receives  Glen  "Erie"  (Eyrie)  cr., 
which  runs  through  tlie  little  mountain  park  called  Garden  of  the  Gods — a  S]^ot 
not  favorable  to  agriculture  and  one  whose  alleged  proprietors  maintain  their 
wonted  alibi.  Visitors  who  now  inspect  the  natural  curiosities  hereabouts, 
including  a  cave  of  very  respectable  dimensions  and  disagreeable  atmosphere, 
go  up  a  carriage  road  which  follows  for  some  distance  what  was  an  old  Indian 
trail  between  South  Park  and  the  plains.  Fountain  r.,  thus  composed,  runs  S. 
along  the  E.  base  of  the  R.  mts.,  receiving  sm.ill  aflluents  all  along  on  either 
hand,  as  Bear,  N.  Cheyenne,  ,S.  Cheyenne,  Sand,  Jimmy's  Camp,  and  Little 
Fountain  creeks,  and  falls  into  the  Arkansaw  at  Pueblo,  as  already  said.  It  is 
Pike's  "  North  Fork"  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  this  is  the  stream  nearly  parallel 
with  which  he  proceeds  via  Turkey  cr.  toward  the  "high  point  of  the  blue 
mountain,"  ;'.  e.,  Pike's  Peak.  His  breastwork  was  built  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Arkansaw,  slightly  above  the  confluence  of  Fountain  r.,  and  thus  within  present 
city  limits  of  Pueblo — though  the  built-up  portions  of  South  Pueblo  are  mostly 
a  mile  or  so  from  the  confluence.     A  suburb  of  South  Pueblo  is  called   Besse- 


IN  CAMP  AT  PUEBLO.  453 

and  put  up  a  breast  work,"  five  feet  high  on  three  sides  and 

raer,  where  stand  the  great  smelters  and  other  evidences  of  that  commercial 
energy  which  has  caused  Pueblo  to  be  sometimes  styled  ' '  the  Pittsburg  of  the 
West,"  though  the  pure  air  is  not  to  be  compared  with  the  smutty  gas  one 
breathes  at  the  old  site  of  Fort  Duquesne.  A  mile  from  Bessemer  is  Lake  Min- 
nequa,  a  resort  of  the  Pueblonians  for  boating,  beer,  and  music.  Pueblo  has  re- 
tained for  more  than  half  a  century  a  name  that  was  originally  not  a  proper  but 
a  common  noun.  Thus  we  read  in  Fremont,  Rep.  1S45,  p.  Ii6  :  "  Continuing 
down  the  [Fountain]  river,  we  encamped  at  noon  on  the  14th  [of  July,  1S43] 
at  its  mouth,  on  the  Arkansas  river.  A  short  distance  above  our  encampment, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Arkansas,  is  &puel'h\  (as  the  Mexicans  call  their  civilized 
Indian  villages,)  where  a  number  of  mountaineers,  who  had  married  Spanish 
women  in  the  vicinity  of  Taos,  had  collected  together,  and  occupied  themselves 
in  farming,  carrying  on  at  the  same  time  a  desultory  Indian  trade.  They  were 
principally  Americans,  and  treated  us  with  all  the  rude  hospitality  their  situation 
admitted."  Fremont  calls  the  river  "  Fontaine-qui-bouit  "  (not  Botiille).  I 
understand  that  Pueblo  was  known  at  one  time,  during  the  '40's,  as  Hard- 
scrabble — a  name  now  given  to  another  place,  for  which  see  a  note  beyond.  I 
am  told  by  Mr.  Maguire  that  "Jimmy's  Camp  " — now  the  name  of  a  creek  above 
said — was  a  traditionally  well-known  place  where  one  "  Jimmy  "  had  a  small  trad- 
ing outfit,  mainly  for  the  Utes  ;  he  was  killed  by  the  Plains  Indians.  Present 
Jimmy  Camp  is  a  hamlet  about  Corral  Bluffs,  9  m.  due  E.  of  Colorado  Springs. 
"  This  was  a  slight  structure,  occupied  only  for  a  few  days,  and  soon  disap- 
peared. But  it  is  notable  as  the  first  wooden  building  of  an  American  in  present 
Colorado,  and  very  probably  our  flag  first  flew  in  that  State  over  these  logs. 
There  was  no  trace  of  it  to  be  found  in  iSig,  according  to  Long.  It  was  built 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  Arkansaw,  a  little  above  the  then  confluence  of  Fountain  r., 
within  the  present  city  of  Pueblo  (South  Pueblo).  The  precise  spot  has  never 
been  recovered,  and  probably  never  will  be.  Changes  in  the  river  may  have 
soon  washed  it  away,  or  left  it  at  some  unrecognizable  point  on  the  prairie. 
The  Arkansaw  here  has  suffered  great  changes  in  details  of  its  course,  and  is 
liable  to  inundation  :  witness  the  disastrous  flood  this  year  (1894),  which  almost 
drowned  the  city  itself.  In  this  connection  I  may  cite  part  of  an  interesting 
letter  with  which  I  am  favored  by  Mr.  C.  H.  Small  of  the  Board  of  Trade  of 
Pueblo,  whose  knowledge  of  real  estate  in  that  city  is  probaljly  unsurpassed. 
It  refers  to  the  discovery  by  excavation  of  an  old  fort  which  cannot  by  any  pos- 
sibility be  Pike's,  yet  in  the  course  of  human  nature  is  liable  to  become  so  con- 
sidered by  some,  and  in  due  time  to  enter  history  as  such.  Mr.  Small  says  : 
"  A  fort  was  once  built  on  the  south  side  of  the  Arkansas  just  north  of  the 
Farris  Hotel — between  this  hotel  and  the  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  tracks  at  Union 
Avenue.  The  channel  of  the  river  changed  in  the  seventies  to  a  more  southerly 
and  straighter  course.  The  occupants  of  the  fort  were  all  massacred  by  Indians 
on  one  occasion.  In  laying  a  pipe  on  Union  Avenue  two  years  ago  [1892],  one 
or  more  skeletons  were  exhumed,  doubtless  the  remains  of  those  massacred. 
This  was  at  the  depth  of  ten  feet  below  the  present  level  of  the  street,  and 


454  THE   START   FOR   FIKE'S   PEAK. 

the  Other  thrown  on  the  river.  After  giving  the  necessary 
orders  for  their  government  during  my  absence,  in  case  of 
our  not  returning,  we  marched  at  one  o'clock,  with  an  idea 
of  arriving  at  tlie  foot  of  the  mountain ;  but  found  our- 
selves obhged  to  take  up  our  night's  lodging  under  a  single 
cedar  which  we  found  in  the  prairie,  without  water  and 
extremely  cold.  Our  party  besides  myself  consisted  of 
Dr.  Robinson,  and  Privates  Miller  and  Brown.  Distance  12 
miles." 

directly  in  front  of  the  Farris  Hotel  ;  the  logs  of  the  old  fort  were  come  upon 
at  the  same  time.  The  grade  of  the  street  had  been  raised  five  feet,  about 
1885."  Mr.  Small's  letter  is  dated  Feb.  23d,  1894.  In  further  correspondence 
on  this  subject  I  am  given  to  understand  that  this  fort  was  an  adobe  structure 
built  by  the  American  Fur  Co.,  on  what  is  now  Union  Avenue.  On  Christmas 
Day,  1854,  a  drunken  spree  ended  in  a  free  fight,  in  which  all  the  whites  were 
killed  by  the  Indians  but  one,  who  fled  to  a  smaller  post  on  the  Arkansaw  at 
the  mouth  of  the  St.  Charles,  7  or  8  m.  off,  whence  a  burying-party  came  next 
day.  For  a  long  time  there  was  also  an  adobe  tower  or  lookout  on  top  of  the 
hill,  about  present  intersection  of  Second  and  Summit  streets  ;  but  it  has 
entirely  disappeared. 

*'  Pike  starts  up  the  W.  bank  of  Fountain  r. ,  but  soon  bears  N.  W.,  directly 
through  the  present  city,  in  the  direction  of  Turkey  cr.  This  is  a  stream  which 
runs  (when  it  nuis  anywhere)  parallel  with  Fountain  r. ,  10  to  15  m.  further  \V.; 
it  heads  about  Cheyenne  Peak,  the  foremost  though  not  the  highest  of  the  Front 
range  in  the  vicinity  of  Pike's  Peak.  The  air-line  distance  of  Pike's  Peak  from 
Pueblo  is  about  50  m. ;  the  distance  over  any  ground  by  which  the  summit 
could  be  reached  would  be  as  far  again.  In  making  this  side-trip  our  hero 
proceeds  with  the  determin.ation  expressed  in  the  modern  slang  phrase,  "Pike's 
Peak  or  bust  ! "  We  must  remember  that  he  knew  nothing  of  mountains,  so  to 
speak,  from  personal  experience,  and  had  never  in  his  life  been  higher  than 
some  pass  in  the  AUeghanies,  perhaps  about  the  elevation  of  the  ground  on 
which  he  built  his  breastwork  (say  4,700  feet).  In  the  prairie  close  by 
Colorado  Springs  there  stands  a  little  knob,  up  which  a  man  could  run  in  a  few 
minutes,  and  which  has  been  dubbed  in  derision,  "  Mt.  Washington,"  because 
it  is  exactly  as  high  as  that  celebrated  peak  in  the  WTiite  mts.  of  New  Hamp- 
shire— 6,288  feet.  Though  Pike  never  surmounted  his  eternal  monument, 
he  overcame  all  those  dangers,  difficulties,  and  hardships  which  did  "bust" 
many  a  later,  less  hardy,  and  less  resolute  adventurer  who  "  bucked  against  the 
Rockies."  Tourists  and  inv.alids  have  now  the  option  of  ascending  to  the 
summit  of  his  peak  from  Colorado  Springs  by  stage,  or  from  Manitou  Springs 
by  the  cogwheel  railroad,  which  has  been  in  operation  since  July,  1891.  By 
the  latter  mode  of  conveyance  I  have  ascended  the  Rigi  in  Switzerland,  as  well 
as  Mt.  Washington  in  my  n.ative  State  ;  but  neither  of  these  afforded  the  sensa- 


UP  TURKEY  CREEK  TO  MT.  CHEYENNE.      455 

Nov.  2§tli.  Marched  early,  with  an  expectation  of 
ascending  the  mountain,  but  was  only  able  to  encamp  at  its 
base,  after  passing  over  many  small  hills  covered  with 
cedars  and  pitch-pines.  Our  encampment  was  on  a 
[Turkey]  creek,  where  we  found  no  water  for  several  miles 
from  the  mountain ;  but  near  its  base,  found  springs  suffi- 
cient. Took  a  meridional  observation,  and  the  altitude  of 
the  mountain.     Killed  two  buffalo.     Distance  22  miles." 

Nov.  26th.  Expecting  to  return  to  our  camp  the  same 
evening,  we  left  all  our  blankets  and  provisions  at  the  foot 
of  the  [Cheyenne]  mountain.  Killed  a  deer  of  a  new  species 
\Cariaciis  inacrotis\,  and  hung  his  skin  on  a  tree  with  some 

tion  I  experienced  upon  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  looking  far  down  upon  the 
greatest  elevation  he  attained  on  the  present  excursion.  Ilis  12  m.  N.  \V. 
to-day  sets  him  on  the  prairie  between  Fountain  r.  and  Turkey  or.,  nearer  the 
latter.  The  present  road  from  Pueblo  to  Turkey  cr.  strikes  the  usually  dry  bed 
of  the  latter  at  about  17  miles'  distance,  follows  up  the  E.  bank  to  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  crosses  there,  keeps  on  past  East  Turkey  cr.  through  Dead  Man's 
caiion,  crosses  the  heads  of  Little  Fountain  cr.,  and  continues  to  skirt  the  E. 
base  of  the  range,  past  Cheyenne  Peak  to  Colorado  Springs.  Up  to  the  canon, 
at  least,  this  is  exactly  the  route  Pike  took  to  reach  Mt.  Cheyenne. 

■"  In  the  hilly  country  along  the  E.  side  of  Turkey  cr. ,  and  then  on  that 
creek,  heading  straight  for  Clieyenne  Peak  ;  camp  on  the  creek  when  he  came 
to  water,  probably  about  where  West  Turkey  cr.  falls  in  ;  altitude  perhaps 
6,000  feet.  The  situation  is  now  in  the  ravine  of  the  creek,  with  elevations  of 
6,500  feet  on  the  right,  and  others  7,000  to  8,000  feet  on  the  left  and  ahead. 
The  creek  receives  small  tributaries  from  the  left  all  along,  each  gulch  having 
its  little  stream,  or  bed  of  one.  One  of  the  largest  of  these  is  West  Turkey  cr. , 
runnings.  E.  from  altitudes  of  about  9,500  feet.  Further  along  comes  down 
the  parallel  stream  of  East  Turkey  cr.,  heading  S.  from  Mt.  Rosa  from  altitudes 
of  about  10,500  feet,  and  falling  in  by  Dead  Man's  canon.  The  summit  of 
the  Cheyenne  mt.  is  due  N.  of  Pike's  present  position,  at  an  air-line  distance 
of  10  or  12  m.;  Mt.  Rosa  bears  N.  by  W.,  somewhat  further  off.  The  situ.i- 
tion  is  such  that,  if  Pike  should  keep  straight  ahead,  through  Dead  Man's 
canon,  he  would  run  across  Little  Fountain  cr.,  and  proceed  to  climb  Cheyenne 
mt.  from  the  S. ;  but  if  he  should  bear  to  the  left,  uji  some  one  of  the  Turkey 
Creek  afiluents  I  have  mentioned  or  alluded  to,  he  would  much  sooner  reach 
what  he  would  be  likely  to  call  "the  summit  of  the  chain"  (see  text  of  the 
27th) — that  is,  an  altitude  of  about  9,000  feet,  with  Mt.  Rosa  bearing  N.  and 
the  summit  of  Cheyenne  mt.  N.  N.  E.,  each  at  an  air-line  distance  of  6  or 
8  m.  I  think  this  was  most  probably  his  route  ;  but  do  not  see  that  we  have 
the  data  to  establish  the  f.act. 


456  "  BUCKING  AGAINST  THE   ROCKIES." 

meat.  We  commenced  ascending ;  found  it  very  difficult, 
being  obliged  to  climb  up  rocks,  sometimes  almost  per- 
pendicular ;  and  after  marching  all  day  we  encamped  in 
a   cave,   without   blankets,   victuals,    or  water.""     We   had 

**  Pike's  expectation  of  climbing  his  peak  and  getting  back  to  his  camp  on 
Turkey  cr.  in  one  day  may  serve  to  console  some  who  have  thought  they  would 
like  to  take  a  stroll  before  breakfast  to  the  same  peak  from  the  Antlers  Hotel  in 
Colorado  Springs.  Though  Tike's  actual  footsteps  in  these  mountains  be  not  re- 
coverable with  exactitude,  there  is  no  uncertainty  as  to  about  where  he  was  on  the 
26th  and  27th,  when  he  climbed  S.  of  Mts.  Cheyenne  and  Rosa  to  an  altitude 
of  about  g.ooo  feet,  and  then  returned.  Mt.  Cheyenne  is  the  foremost  of  the 
group  of  peaks  in  this  part  of  the  Front  range  ;  it  stands  out  in  such  bold  relief 
that  uninformed  visitors  to  Colorado  Springs  often  mistake  it  for  Pike's  Peak, 
liut  its  altitude  is  only  9,407  or  9,948  feet,  as  estimated  by  different  authorities, 
and  thus  considerably  less  than  that  of  various  other  peaks  in  the  vicinity. 
Some  of  these  are:  Cameron  Cone,  10,685  or  11,560  feet  ;  Mt.  Rosa,  11,427 
or  11,572  feet ;  IVIt.  Pisgah,  given  as  10,487  feet ;  Pilate  Peak,  given  as  12,420 
feet.  The  two  last  named  are  further  W.  and  S. ;  Cheyenne,  Cameron,  and 
Rosa  form  angles  of  a  triangle,  E.  of  Pike's  Peak,  that  "  grim  sentinel  of  tlie 
Rockies,"  as  it  is  styled  by  some,  or  the  "  Grand  Peak,"  as  Pike  calls  it,  which 
towers  over  all  the  rest  to  the  generally  accepted  altitude  of  14,147  feet.  These 
figures  can  easily  be  recalled  to  mind  if  one  remembers  that  twice  seven  is  14. 
This  peak  is  due  W.  of  Colorado  Springs,  at  an  air-line  distance  of  12  m. 
Visitors  are  driven  to  the  summit  by  way  of  the  Cascade  carriage  road,  running 
up  Cascade  canon  from  a  point  in  the  Ute  Pass  n  m.  from  Colorado  Springs. 
This  stage  route  is  a  trifle  over  17  m.  from  Cascade,  or  a  total  of  about  28  m. 
from  the  Antlers  Hotel,  Colorado  Springs.  During  tlie  season  when  tlie  crop 
of  pink-toed  tender-foots  is  harvested,  wagons  make  the  round  trip  in  one  day, 
9  a.  m.-6  p.  m.,  spending  an  hour  at  the  Halfway  House  .and  another  at  the 
Peak.  This  is  said  to  be  the  highest  stage-line  in  the  United  States.  There  is 
also  a  road  up  Bear  Creek  caiion  to  the  Seven  Lakes,  but  not  to  the  Peak,  and 
no  line  of  stages  is  regularly  run  on  it.  The  Cheyenne  Mountain  road  also 
goes  to  these  lakes,  and  has  been  run  through  to  the  mining  camp  on  Cripple 
cr.,  which  lately  made  such  a  noise  in  Colorado.  This  is  S.  W.  of  the  peak, 
about  18  air-line  miles  from  Colorado  Springs.  The  Pike's  Peak  Cog  Railway 
takes  a  much  shorter,  steeper,  and  straighter  course  than  the  stage  road,  l:)y  way 
of  Ingleman  canon  and  Ruxton  cr.  The  cog  line  starts  from  Manitou,  (i%  m. 
from  Colorado  Springs,  and  is  83;^  m.  long.  The  round  trip  is  made  in  about 
five  hours,  two  hours  each  way,  witli  one  hour  between,  on  the  summit.  This 
is  ample  time  ;  for  tourists  find  Pike's  Pe,ak  a  convenient  place  to  leave  as  soon 
as  they  have  paid  twenty-five  cents  for  a  cup  of  the  worst  coffee  in  the  world, 
and  tried  in  vain  to  stand  up  against  a  wind  of  50  or  60  m.  an  hour.  Those 
who  m.iy  be  more  interested  in  Pike's  Pe.ik  at  a  distance  are  referred  to  a  dainty 
booklet  entitled  Legends  of  the  Pike's  Peak  Region,  8vo,  Denver,  1892  ;  it  is 


"  pike's  peak  or  bust."  457 

a  fine  clear  sky,  while  it  was  snowing  at  the  bottom.  On 
the  side  of  the  mountain  we  found  only  yellow  and  pitch- 
pine.     Some  distance  up  we  found  buffalo;  higher  still  the 

full  of  quaint  local  lore,  especially  of  the  traditions  of  the  only  mountain  Pike 
climbed  part  way  up.  Among  all  tlie  niytlis  that  cling  to  the  Peak,  obscuring 
the  facts  in  the  case  like  the  clouds  that  mantle  the  mountain,  the  very  basic 
one — that  one  on  which  the  mountain  rests,  so  to  speak — is  the  universal 
tradition  that  the  brave  young  officer  discovered  and  ascended  the  Peak  which 
upholds  his  name.  One  wishes  that  such  laurels  as  he  earned  and  well  deserved 
had  been  plucked  from  an  eminence  unknown  and  unattained  before.  But 
Pike's  Peak  had  been  long  and  well  known  to  the  Spaniards  ;  it  was  the  Ultima 
Thule  of  their  possessions  ;  and  for  that  matter,  was  not  Pike  at  the  very  time 
in  pursuit  of  the  Spanish  troops  under  Malgares,  who  had  gone  along  just 
before  him?  It  is  tnie  that  Pike,  Robinson,  Brown,  and  Miller — the  four 
whose  names  are  thus  linked  should  be  upheld  together — are  the  first  white  men 
known  to  have  come  within  "  the  distance  of  15  or  16  miles  "  of  the  peak,  as  it 
seemed  to  them,  when  the  "  Grand  Peak  "  appeared  "  as  high  again  as  what  we 
ascended  and  would  have  taken  a  whole  day's  march  to  arrive  at  its  base." 
This  is  the  testimony  of  the  hero  of  the  occasion  ;  his  evidence  is  alike  incisive 
and  decisive.  So  far  as  we  are  informed  by  authentic  history.  Pike's  Peak  was 
first  surmounted  by  Dr.  Edwin  James,  Mr.  Wilson,  and  two  other  men,  July 
13th  and  14th,  1820,  during  Major  S.  11.  Long's  expedition  to  the  Rocky  mts., 
when  it  was  named  James'  Peak.  Wlien,  where,  and  by  whom  the  mountain 
was  first  called  Pike's  Peak  is  unknown,  to  me  at  least ;  but  its  earliest  ap- 
pearance in  print  should  be  discoverable.  The  date  is  proljably  somewhere  in 
the  '40's,  or  still  earlier.  The  name  was  certainly  in  verbal  use  in  the  '30's. 
Mr.  Oliver  P.  Wiggins,  now  of  Denver,  who  was  on  the  plains  in  1S38,  heard 
only  "  Pike's  Peak,"  as  a  phrase  already  in  common  speech.  Gregg's  map  of 
1844  legends  "  Pikes  Peak  (or  James')."  Beckwith's  Report  of  1853,  pub.  1855. 
p.  30,  has  only  "James'."  The  alternative  names  ran  parallel  for  some  years. 
G.  K.Warren  states,  Pac.  R.  R.  Rep.  XI.,  1855,  p. 24  :  "  Captain  Fremont,  in  his 
report  and  map  of  explorations  in  1843  and  1844,  calls  it  Pike's  Peak,  probably 
because  it  was  so  called  by  tlie  white  people  in  the  country  at  the  time  ": 
see  also  George  Frederick  Ruxton's  Adventures,  etc.,  London,  Murray,  1861, 
but  written  much  earlier.  Governor  Alva  Adams,  in  the  address  already  cited, 
p.  13,  discusses  the  point  as  "  one  of  the  historical  mysteries,"  and  adds  :  "  The 
name  of  Pike's  Peak  begins  to  appear  in  the  literature  of  the  prairies  and  moun- 
tains about  the  middle  of  the  century,  but  it  was  not  irrevocably  christened 
until  the  Pike's  Peak  gold  excitement,  when  the  name  was  fixed  to  remain  as 
long  as  men  love  to  listen  to  stories  of  valor."  Whether  it  originated  spontane- 
ously or  was  formally  introduced,  it  will  probably  never  die  ;  the  alliteration  of 
the  words  would  be  enough  to  keep  the  phrase  in  the  mouths  of  the  people,  let 
alone  its  justice  and  propriety.  As  for  any  Spanish  claim  which  may  hereafter 
be  established  respecting  prior  discovery  or  ascent  of  the  pe.ak,  the  following 


458  "busted!" 

new  species  of  deer,  and  pheasants  [dusky  grouse,  Dendra- 
gapus  obscurus]. 

Nov.  2yth.  Arose  hungry,  dry,  and  extremely  sore,  from 
the  inequahty  of  the  rocks  on  which  we  had  lain  all  night, 
but  were  amply  compensated  for  toil  by  the  sublimity  of 
the  prospect  below.  The  unbounded  prairie  was  overhung 
with  clouds,  which  appeared  like  the  ocean  in  a  storm,  wave 
piled  on  wave  and  foaming,  while  the  sky  was  perfectly 
clear  where  we  were.  Commenced  our  march  up  the 
mountain,  and  in  about  one  hour  arrived  at  the  summit  of 
this  chain.  Here  we  found  the  snow  middle-deep  ;  no  sign 
of  beast  or  bird  inhabiting  this  region.  The  thermometer, 
which  stood  at  9°  above  zero  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
here  fell  to  4°  below  zero.  The  summit  of  the  Grand  Peak, 
which  was  entirely  bare  of  vegetation  and  covered  witli 
snow,  now  appeared  at  the  distance  of  15  or  16  miles  from 
us.  It  was  as  high  again  as  what  we  had  ascended,  and  it 
would  have  taken  a  whole  day's  march  to  arrive  at  its  base, 
when  I  believe  no  human  being  could  have  ascended  to  its 
pinical.  This,  with  the  condition  of  my  soldiers,  who  had 
only  light  overalls  on,  no  stockings,  and  were  in  every  way 
ill  provided  to  endure  the  inclemency  of  the  region  ;  the 
bad  prospect  of  killing  anything  to  subsist  on,  with  the 
further  detention  of  two  or  three  days  which  it  must  occa- 
sion, determined  us  to  return.  The  clouds  from  below  had 
now  ascended  the  mountain  and  entirely  enveloped  the 
summit,  on  which  rest  eternal  snows.  We  descended  by 
a  long,  deep  ravine,  with  much  less  difficulty  than  con- 
templated. Found  all  our  baggage  safe,  but  the  provisions 
all  destroyed.  It  began  to  snow,  and  we  sought  shelter 
under  the  side  of  a  projecting  rock,  where  we  all  four  made 

extract  from  the  Legends  already  cited  is  jiertincnt  :  "From  Pike's  Peak  to 
Popocatepetl  the  land  is  a  palimpsest,  dotted  with  ruins  of  remotest  anticpiity, 
the  relics  of  a  people  whose  records  are  replete  with  poetry  and  strange  romance. 
Their  manuscripts  enrich  the  archives  of  Mexico  and  Madrid,  and  yet  we  learn 
but  little  of  them.  They  moulder  in  the  missions  of  the  suspicious  Spanish 
priests,  or  among  the  mystic  treasures  of  the  Puehlos,  and  are  decaying  unread." 


BUT  SAFE   liACK   IN  CAMP  AT   PUEBLO.  459 

a  meal  on  one  partridge  and  a  piece  of  deer's  ribs  the  ravens 
had  left  us,  being  the  first  we  had  eaten  in  that  48  hours. 

Nov.  2Stli.  Marched  at  nine  o'clock.  Kept  straight  on 
down  the  [Turkey]  creek  to  avoid  the  hills."  At  half  past 
one  o'clock  shot  two  buffalo,  when  we  made  the  first  full 
meal  we  had  made  in  three  days.  Encamped  in  a  valley 
under  a  shelving  rock.  The  land  here  very  rich,  and  cov- 
ered with  old  Tetau  [Comanche]  camps. 

Nov.  2gth.  Marched  after  a  short  repast,  and  arrived  at 
our  camp  before  night ;  found  all  well. 

Sunday,  Nov.  joih.  Marched  at  eleven  o'clock ;  it  snowed 
very  fast,  but  my  impatience  to  be  moving  would  not  permit 
my  lying  still  at  that  camp.  The  doctor,  Baroney,  and  my- 
self went  to  view  a  Tetau  encampment,  which  appeared  to 
be  about  two  years  old  ;  and  from  their  having  cut  down  so 
large  a  quantity  of  trees  to  support  their  horses,  we  con- 
cluded there  must  have  been  at  least  1,000  souls.  Passed 
several  more  in  the  course  of  the  day  ;  also  one  Spanish 
camp.  This  day  came  to  the  first  cedar  and  pine.  Killed 
two  deer.     Distance  15  miles.'" 

■"  The  trail  of  this  excursus,  as  dotted  on  Pike's  map,  would  be  enough  to 
show  how  far  he  was  from  reaching  the  summit  of  the  "  Highest  Peak  "  there 
delineated,  in  the  absence  of  any  other  data.  Such  an  affair  as  this  would 
never  have  been  understated  or  underdrawn  intentionally.  Yet  the  dot-line 
leaves  him  furtlier  from  the  peak  than  I  am  inclined  to  tliink  he  actually  was  ; 
but  it  is  obviously  incorrect  in  detail,  and  thus  no  offset  to  the  explicit  text. 
The  wide  looping  of  the  trail  merely  indicates  a  "  round  trip"  from  Pueblo  and 
return.  The  only  considerable  difference  in  Pike's  going  and  coming  was,  that 
in  the  latter  case  he  "  kept  straight  down  the  creek  to  avoid  the  hills,"  over 
which  he  had  before  trudged.  The  map  exaggerates  the  size  of  Turkey  cr.,  as 
well  as  of  Fountain  r.  It  is  possible  that  someone  thoroughly  familiar  with  the 
topography  of  the  mountains  at  the  heads  of  Turkey  and  Little  Fountain  creeks 
may  yet  work  out  Pike's  trail  in  exact  detail. 

'"  Up  S.  bank  of  the  Arkansaw,  past  places  called  Goodnight,  Rock  Canon, 
Vegas,  and  Meadows  ;  also  past  Rock  and  Peck's  or  Willow  Springs  creeks, 
both  S. ,  to  a  point  near  but  short  of  the  mouth  of  Turkey  cr. ,  N. 


CHAPTER  III. 

ITINERARY,  CONCLUDED:  IN  THE  MOUNTAINS  OF  COLO- 
RADO ON  HEADWATERS  OF  THE  ARKANSAW  AND  RIO 
GRANDE,   DECEMBER  1ST,  l8o6-FE13RUARV  26tH,  1807. 

^^nVONDAY,  Dec.  ist.  The  storm  still  continuing  with 
X  ItJ  violence,  we  remained  encamped  ;  the  snow  by  night 
was  one  foot  deep.  Our  horses  were  obliged  to  scrape  it 
away  to  obtain  their  miserable  pittance,  and  to  increase 
their  misfortunes  the  poor  animals  were  attacked  by  the 
magpies,  which,  attracted  by  the  scent  of  their  sore  backs, 
alighted  on  them,  and  in  defiance  of  their  wincing  and  kick- 
ing, picked  many  places  quite  raw.  The  difficulty  of  pro- 
curing food  rendered  those  birds  so  bold  as  to  alight  on 
our  men's  arms  and  eat  meat  out  of  their  hands.  One  of 
our  hunters  went  out,  but  killed  nothing. 

Dec.  2d.  It  cleared  off  in  the  night,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing the  thermometer  stood  at  17"  below  zero  (Reaumer 
[Reaumur]),  being  three  times  as  cold  as  any  morning  we 
had  yet  experienced.  We  killed  an  old  buffalo  on  the  op- 
posite [north]  side  of  the  river,  which  here  was  so  deep  as 
to  swim  horses.  Marched  and  found  it  necessary  to  cross 
to  the  north  side,  about  two  miles  up,  as  the  ridge  joined 
the  river.'  The  ford  was  a  good  one,  but  the  ice  ran  very 
bad,  and  two  of  the  men  got  their  feet  frozen  before  we 
could  get  accommodated  with  fire,  etc.     Secured  some  of 

'  Crossing  the  river  from  S.  to  N.  above  the  mouth  of  Turkey  cr.,  somewhere 
about  the  place  now  called  Swallows,  below  the  mouth  of  Rush  cr.,  and  where 
the  bluffs  come  down  to  the  Arkansaw.  The  D.  and  R.  G.  R.  R.  now  makes 
a  crossing  a  little  hi[,'her  up.  Passing  up  the  N.  bank,  opp.  Red  cr.,  S.,  the 
party  continued  to  Carlisle  Springs  and  camped  in  that  vicinity,  just  over  the 
border  of  Fremont  Co.  Red  cr.  is  lettered  "Bed"  on  the  G.  L.  O.  map  of 
1892. 

460 


pike's  peak  looks  higher  still.  461 

our  old  buffalo  and  continued  our  march.  The  country 
being  very  rugged  and  hilly,  one  of  our  horses  took  a  freak 
in  his  head  and  turned  back,  which  occasioned  three  of  our 
rear-guard  to  lie  out  all  night ;  I  was  very  apprehensive 
they  might  perish  on  the  prairie.     Distance  13  miles. 

Dec.  jd.  The  weather  moderating  to  3?  below  zero,  our 
absentees  joined,  one  with  his  feet  frozen,  but  were  not  able 
to  bring  up  the  horse.  I  sent  two  men  back  on  horseback. 
The  hardships  of  last  voyage  [/.  £.,  that  up  the  Mississippi, 
winter  of  1 805-6]  had  now  begun  ;  and  had  the  climate 
only  been  as  severe  as  the  climate  then  was,  some  of  the 
men  must  have  perished,  for  they  had  no  winter  clothing. 
I  wore  myself  cotton  overalls,  for  I  had  not  calculated  on 
being  out  in  that  inclement  season  of  the  year. 

Dr.  Robinson  and  myself,  with  assistants,  went  out  and 
took  the  altitude  of  the  north  mountain  [Pike's  Peak],  on  the 
base  of  a  mile.  The  perpendicular  height  of  this  mountain, 
from  the  level  of  the  prairie,  was  10,581  feet,  and  admitting 
that  the  prairie  was  8,000  feet  from  the  level  of  the  sea,  it 
would  make  the  elevation  of  this  peak  18,581  feet ;  equal  to 
some  and  surpassing  the  calculated  height  of  others  for  the 
peak  of  Tcneriffe,  and  falling  short  of  that  of  Chimborazo 
only  1,701  feet.  Indeed,  it  was  so  remarkable  as  to  be 
known  to  all  the  savage  nations  for  hundreds  of  miles 
around,  to  be  spoken  of  with  admiration  by  the  Spaniards  of 
New  Mexico,  and  to  be  the  bounds  of  their  travels  N.  W. 
In  our  wandering  in  the  mountains  it  was  never  out  of 
sight,  except  when  in  a  valley,  from  the  14th  of  November 
to  the  27th  of  January.^ 

After  this,  together  with  Sparks,  we  endeavored  to  kill  a 
cow,  but  without   effect.      Killed   two  bulls,  that   the  men 

'  The  excessive  estimate  of  the  height  of  Pike's  Peak,  18,581  instead  of  :4,- 
147,  was  in  part  due  to  a  misapprehension  of  the  elevation  of  the  prairie  whence 
the  observation  was  taken.  This  was  assumed  to  be  8,000,  but  is  really  little, 
if  any,  over  5,000.  The  altitude  of  Pico  de  Teyde,  the  volcanic  Peak  of 
Teneriffe,  in  the  Canary  isls.,  is  given  on  good  authority  as  12,200  ;  and  that  of 
Mt.  Chimborazo,  one  of  the  highest  peaks  in  the  Ecuadorean  Andes,  is  placed 
at  20,498  feet  by  Whymper,  who  ascended  it  in  1880. 


462  CONFRONTING   THE   GRAND   CANON. 

might  use  pieccsof  their  hides  for  mockinsons.  Left  Sparks 
out.  On  our  return  to  camp  found  the  men  had  got  back 
with  the  strayed  horse,  but  too  late  to  march. 

Dec.  4.th.  Marched  about  five  o'clock ;  took  up  Sparks, 
who  had  succeeded  in  killing  a  cow.  Killed  two  buffaloes 
and  six  turkeys.     Distance  20  miles.^ 

Dec.  jih.  Marched  at  our  usual  hour.  Passed  one  very 
bad  place  of  falling  rocks ;  had  to  carry  our  loads.  En- 
camped on  the  main  branch  of  the  river  [as  distinguished 
from  Grape  creek],  near  the  entrance  of  the  South  [Wet] 
mountain.  In  the  evening  walked  up  to  the  mountain. 
Heard  14  guns  at  camp  during  my  absence,  which  alarmed 
me  considerably  ;  returned  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  found 
that  the  cause  of  my  alarm  was  their  shooting  turkeys. 
Killed  two  buffaloes  and  nine  turkeys.     Distance  18  miles.^ 

'  Passing  Beaver  cr.,  N.,  with  places  called  Beaver  Depot  and  Beaver  at  and 
near  its  mouth  ;  passing  opp.  Hardscrabble  cr.,  S.,  with  a  place  called  Adobe  at 
its  mouth,  where  one  of  the  two  railroads  now  makes  a  crossing  ;  continuing  up 
N.  bank,  past  Ute  or  Brush  Hollow  cr.,  N.,  and  Eight  Mile  cr.,  N.,  to  camp 
below  Six  Mile  cr.,  N.,  about  opposite  the  mouth  of  Coal  cr.,  S.,  where  is  now 
the  town  of  Florence. 

*  Passing  opposite  mouth  of  Oak  cr.,  S.,  Six  Mile  cr.,  N.,  and  Chandler  cr., 
S.,  then  coming  to  the  "bad  place  of  falling  rocks,"  which  is  where  a  bluff 
point  comes  down  to  the  river — all  these  places  within  2  or  3  m.  of  camp  ;  and 
continuing  p.ist  Oil  cr. ,  N. ,  to  camp  within  the  present  limits  of  Canon  City, 
Fremont  Co.  This  is  already  a  considerable  village,  and  is  growing.  It  nestles 
directly  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  under  the  shadow  of  Noonan's  and  Fre- 
mont's Peaks,  and  derives  its  name  from  the  remarkable  formation  which  the 
text  presently  describes.  This  is  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansaw,  a  part 
uf  which  is  well  known  to  tourists  as  the  "  Royal  Gorge,"  because  it  has  been 
exploited  so  much  on  the  folders  of  the  D.  and  R.  G.  R.  R.  But  it  is  worthy 
of  exploitation,  and  does  not  disappoint  the  expectations  raised  by  the  adver- 
tisements of  the  "  scenic  line  of  the  world."  Canon  City  is  almost  in  the  veiy 
jaws  of  this  vast  chasm,  through  which  the  Arkansaw  has  forced  its  way  to 
issuance  on  the  plains.  It  was  practically  impassable,  even  afoot,  until  a  way 
was  hewn  and  blasted  for  the  railroad  which  now  traverses  its  whole  length. 
Both  trails  which  lead  west  from  Canon  City  get  around  the  terrible  place  ;  one 
on  the  north  starts  up  Sand  cr.,  past  Noonan's  and  Fremont's  Peaks,  and  swings 
around  to  Parkdale  at  the  head  of  the  canon  ;  and  the  other,  on  the  south, 
crosses  Grape  cr.,  traverses  Webster  Park,  and  comes  down  Copper  cr.  to 
Parkdale.  Next  after  Pueblo,  the  basis  of  the  Pike's  Peak  trip,  as  we  have 
seen,  Canon  City  is  the  most  notable  place  on   Pike's  Arkansaw  route.     The 


IN   CAMP  AT  CANON   CITY.  463 

Dec.  6th.  Sent  out  three  different  parties  to  hunt  the 
Spanish  trace,  but  witliout  success.  The  doctor  and  myself 
followed  the  river  into  the  mountain,  where  it  was  bounded 
on  each  side  by  the  rocks  of  the  mountain,  200  feet  high, 
leaving  a  small  valley  of  50  or  60  feet  [in  the  "  Royal 
Gorge  "].     Killed  two  buffaloes,  two  deer,  one  turkey. 

Sunday,  Dec.  jih.  We  again  dispatched  parties  in  search 
of  the  trace.  One  party  discovered  it,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river,  and  followed  it  into  the  valley  of  the  river  at  the 
entrance  of  the  mountain,  where  they  met  two  parties  who 
were  returning  from  exploring  the  two  branches  ^  of  the 
river,  in  the  mountains ;  of  which  they  reported  that  they 
had  ascended  until  the  river  was  merely  a  brook,  bounded 
on  both  sides  with  perpendicular  rocks,  impracticable  for 
horses  ever  to  pass  them  ;  they  had  then  recrossed  the  river 
to  the  north  side,  and  discovered,  as  they  supposed,  that 
the  Spanish  troops  had  ascended  a  dry  valley  to  the  right. 
On  their  return  they  found  some  rock-salt,  samples  of  which 
were  brought  me.  We  determined  to  march  the  morrow  to 
the  entrance  of  the  valley,  there  to  examine  the  salt  and 
the  road.     Killed  one  wildcat. 

Dec.  8th.  On  examining  the  trace  found  yesterday,  con- 
ceived it  to  have  been  only  a  reconnoitering  party,  dispatched 

party  stops  here  awhile  to  scout  about,  before  starting  for  South  Park  ;  and  to 
this  place  they  return  aftenvard,  build  a  blockliouse,  leave  two  men,  and  start 
on  their  perilous  adventures  by  way  of  Grape  cr.  to  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range 
and  so  to  the  Rio  Grande. 

'  One  of  these  is,  of  course,  the  main  Arkansaw,  in  the  Royal  Gorge  ;  the 
other,  on  the  left,  or  S.,  is  Grape  cr.,  which  runs  through  the  Wet  mts.  to 
its  confluence  with  the  Arkansaw  a  mile  or  so  above  Caiion  City,  under 
Noonan's  Peak.  Grape  cr.  used  to  be  called  Pike's  fork  of  the  Arkansaw,  as  Iiy 
Gregg,  1844  ;  but  this  name  lapsed.  Bringing  it  in  for  a  moment,  we  find  the 
"forks"  of  the  Arkansaw  to  be:  1st  fork  of  Pike,  Purgatory  r. ;  2d  fork  of 
Pike,  Huerfano  r. ;  3d  fork  of  Pike,  St.  Charles  r. ;  Grand  forks  of  Pike,  con- 
fluence of  Fountain  r.  with  the  Arkansaw  ;  Pike's  fork  of  some  books,  Grape 
cr.  From  his  present  position  at  Caiion  City,  Pike  explores  the  Royal  Gorge 
and  Grape  cr.  to  some  little  extent,  and  abandons  them  both  ;  he  scouts  about 
for  the  Spanish  trail,  and  having  found  it,  as  he  supposes,  starts  N.,  up  Oil 
cr.,  very  likely  by  the  present  road  from  the  town  to  that  stream. 


464        THE   START   UP   OIL   CREEK   FOR    SOUTH    PARK. 

from  the  main  body  ;  and  on  analyzing  the  rock-salt,  found 
it  to  be  strongly  impregnated  with  sulphur.  There  were 
some  very  strong  sulphurated  springs  at  its  foot.  Returned 
to  camp ;  took  with  me  Dr.  Robinson  and  Miller,  and  de- 
scended the  river,  in  order  to  discover  certainly  if  the  whole 
[Spanish]  party  had  come  by  this  route.  Descended  about 
seven  miles  on  the  south  side  [of  the  Arkansaw].  Saw  great 
quantities  of  turkeys  and  deer.     Killed  one  deer. 

Dec.  gtli.  Before  we  marched,  killed  a  fine  buck  at  our 
camp  as  he  was  passing.  F"ound  the  Spanish  camp  about 
four  miles  below  ;  and,  from  every  observation  we  could 
make,  conceived  they  had  all  ascended  the  river.  Re- 
turned to  camp,  where  we  arrived  about  two  o'clock.  Found 
all  well  ;  would  have  moved  immediately,  but  four  men  were 
out  reconnoitering.     Killed  three  deer. 

Dec.  lotli.  Marched  and  found  the  road  over  the  moun- 
tain to  be  excellent.  Encamped  in  a  dry  ravine."  Obliged 
to  melt  snow  for  ourselves  and  horses ;  and  as  there  was 
nothing  else  for  the  latter  to  cat,  gave  them  one  pint  of  corn 
each.     Killed  one  buffalo. 

Dec.  nth.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  in  one  mile  struck 
a  branch  [Oil  creek]  of  the  Arkansawon  which  the  supposed 
Spaniards  had  encamped,  where  there  was  both  water  and 
grass.     Kept   up   this   branch,  but  was  frequently   embar- 

'  A  mountain  trail  with  no  course  or  dist.ince  given  is  not  encouraging  to  fol- 
low. In  earlier  studies  of  Pike,  I  had  supposed  he  reached  South  Park  by  way 
of  Currant  cr.,  as  he  might  have  done.  But  no  douljt  remains  in  my  mind  that 
he  took  the  Oil  Creek  route.  If  we  regard  his  map  attentively,  we  see  that  he 
went  up  along  a  large  creek  which  he  fetches  into  the  Arkansaw  below  the  block- 
house he  built  on  his  return  to  Caiion  City,  and  which  is  certainly  Oil  cr.  Camp 
of  Dec.  loth  is  therefore  in  a  "  dry  ravine  "  within  "  one  mile  "  of  Oil  cr. — 
perhaps  at  the  first  ravine  above  where  Wilson  cr.  falls  in  from  the  left,  or  on 
Wilson  cr.  itself.  Oil  cr.  is  a  very  well  known  stream,  on  the  banks  of  which 
oil  works  have  been  established,  and  at  whose  mouth  is  a  place  called  Reno, 
about  4  m.  below  Canon  City.  It  heads  by  two  main  branches  and  many  small 
tributaries  in  the  mountains  S.  of  Ute  Pass,  W.  of  Pike's  Peak,  and  about  Sad- 
dle and  Thirty-nine  Mile  mt.,  and  runs  S.  about  50  m.  into  the  Arkansaw. 
Pike  goes  up  Oil  cr.  and  takes  the  western  one  of  its  two  main  branches,  crosses 
a  divide,  .ind  strikes  the  South  Platte  r.  in  South  Park. 


BY   WEST   OIL   CREEK   INTO   SOUTH    PARK.  465 

rassed  as  to  the  trace  ;  at  three  o'clock,  having  no  sign  of  it, 
halted  and  encamped,  and  went  out  to  search  it ;  found  it 
about  one  mile  to  the  right.     Distance  1 5  miles. 

Dec.  I2tli.  Marched  at  nine  o'clock.  Continued  up  the 
same  branch  [Oil  creek]  as  yesterday.  The  ridges  on 
our  right  and  left  appeared  to  grow  lower,  but  mountains 
appeared  on  our  flanks,  through  the  intervals,  covered  with 
snow.  Owing  to  the  weakness  of  our  horses,  we  made  only 
12  miles.' 

Dec.  ijtk.  Marched  at  the  usual  hour ;  passed  large 
springs,  and  the  supposed  Spanish  camp  ;  crossed  at  twelve 
o'clock  a  dividing  ridge,"  and  immediately  fell  on  a  small 

■■  Pike  has  gone  N.  from  Canon  City  some  30  or  35  m.,  having  Oil  cr.  on  his 
right,  and  having  crossed  certain  of  its  tributaries  from  the  west  Icnown  as  Wil- 
son, South  Oil,  and  High  creeks.  He  is  now  camped  on  West  Oil  cr.  (the 
western  one  of  the  two  main  branches),  at  or  near  a  place  called  Truro.  This  is 
a  sufficiently  well  known  locality,  in  a  nest  of  mountains  whence  Oil  cr.  gathers 
several  affluents  from  various  directions.  On  another  branch  of  the  creek  is  the 
place  called  Alnwick,  near  where  Riggs  used  to  have  his  ranch,  or  in  the  same 
place.  West  Oil  cr.  is  also  called  Ten  Mile  cr. ;  another  small  stream  is  Mar- 
tin's or  Slate  cr.  Some  of  the  surrounding  points  are  :  Mt.  Pisgah,  10,322  or 
10,487  feet  high  ;  Rhyolite  Peak,  10,860  ;  Dome  Rock  or  the  Needle,  9,463 
feet — these  on  Pike's  right  as  he  faces  N.,  and  S.  W.  to  W.  of  his  peak  ;  while 
on  his  left  are  in  succession  :  Iron  Knoll  or  Trachyte  Knob  (lettered  "  Track- 
ite"  on  G.  L.  O.  map,  1892)  ;  Saddle  mt.;  Thirty-nine  Mile  mt.,  il.ooo  feet ; 
Chalcedony  Buttes,  10,400  and  10,200  feet.  Now  the  usual  way  out  of  this 
place  is  N.  by  Alnwick  or  Rigg's  ranch,  between  Dome  Rock  and  Saddle 
mt.,  over  a  divide  about  9,200  feet  high,  known  as  Two  Creek  or  Twin  Creek 
Pass,  which  fetches  out  on  S.  Platte  waters  at  Florissant,  on  the  W.  border 
of  El  Paso  Co.;  but  Pike  takes  a  route  to  the  left,  up  West  Oil  or  Ten  Mile  cr. 

"  Between  Arkansan  and  Missourian  waters,  in  a  broad  sense  ;  between  the  Oil 
Creek  branch  of  the  Arkansaw  and  the  South  Platte  r.,  in  a  stricter  sense;  more 
exactly  still,  between  West  Oil  or  Ten  Mile  cr.  and  one  of  several  small  spring 
runs  that  make  into  the  S.  Platte.  Pike  makes  the  pass  between  Ten  Mile 
mt.  (right)  and  Thirty-nine  Mile  mt.  (left),  at  an  elevation  of  something  over 
9,000  feet.  The  difference  between  this  Oil  Creek  way  into  South  Park  and 
the  way  by  Currant  cr.  is  that,  had  he  come  up  the  latter,  he  would  have 
made  Currant  Creek  Pass,  9,550  feet,  between  Thirty-Nine  Mile  mt.  (right)  and 
Chalcedony  Buttes  (left) ;  it  is  simply  a  matter  of  "cotoying"  (flanking)  Thirty- 
nine  Mile  mt.  E.  or  W.  By  the  way  he  came,  he  strikes  the  South  Platte  r., 
in  South  Park,  Park  Co.,  at  the  very  nearest  approach  it  makes  to  the  point 
he  left  on  the  Arkansaw — that  is  to  say,  at  the  elbow  it  makes  where,  after 
flowing    S.   E.   through    South    Park,   it    turns  sharp   N.  E.  and  enters  what 


466  ON   THE   SOUTH    PLATTE,  IN  SOUTH    PARK. 

branch  running  N.  20°  W.  There  being  no  appearance  of 
wood,  we  left  it  and  the  Spanish  trace  to  our  right,  and 
made  for  the  hills  to  encamp.  After  the  halt  I  took  my 
gun  and  went  out  to  see  what  discovery  I  could  make.  After 
marching  about  two  miles  north,  fell  on  a  river  40  yards 
wide,  frozen  over;  which,  after  some  investigation,  I  found 
ran  northeast.  This  was  the  occasion  of  much  surprise,  as 
we  had  been  taught  to  expect  to  meet  with  the  branches 
of  Red  river,  which  should  run  southeast.  Query:  Must  it 
not  be  the  headwaters  of  the  river  Platte  ?  [Answer  :  You 
are  on  the  South  Platte,  at  the  head  of  Eleven  Mile  caflon.] 
If  so,  the  Missouri  must  run  much  more  west  than  is  gener- 
ally represented  ;  for  the  Platte  is  a  small  river,  by  no  means 
presenting  an  expectation  of  so  extensive  a  course.  One 
horse  gave  out  and  was  left.     Distance  18  miles. 

Sunday,  Dec.  iph.  Marched  ;  struck  the  river,  ascended 
it  four  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  north  side.'   The  prairie, 

is  called  the  Upper  or  Eleven  Mile  cation.  These  particulars  are  assured  :  for 
Pike  finds  that  the  river  "  ran  northeast."  Camp  of  Dec.  13th  is  set  in  the 
hiUs  2  m.  south  of  the  river,  near  the  head  of  the  cafion  just  said. 

Pike's  route  from  Canon  City  and  back  to  that  place  has  been  a  subject  of 
much  doubt  and  discussion,  in  which  some  very  wild  notions  have  been  in- 
dulged by  those  who  had  any  opinion  whatever  as  to  where  he  went  on  this 
round  trip.  It  has  even  been  mooted  whether  he  was  ever  on  tlie  South 
Platte,  or  even  in  South  Park  at  all.  A  cautious  and  tentative  statement  is  ven- 
tured in  the  1889  Denver  reprint  of  the  London  ed.  of  the  Travels,  where  my 
friend  Mr.  Maguire  says  in  his  new  Preface  :  "  The  exact  line  of  march  of  the 
party  from  the  time  it  reached  the  foot  of  the  Grand  Canon  ["  Royal  Gorge  "] 
of  the  Arkansas  is  not  easy  to  trace.  It  is  likely  that  it  reached  the  Platte  in 
the  South  Park,  and  quite  possible  that  it  penetrated  to  the  headwaters  of  the 
Gunnison."  I  do  not  profess  to  be  able  to  trail  a  mosquito  over  a  granite 
bowlder,  but  I  think  we  shall  be  able  to  discover  precisely  where  Pike  went 
on  this  trip,  where  he  entered  South  Park,  his  course  through  it,  the  place 
where  he  left  it,  and  how,  after  ascending  the  Arkansaw  for  two  days,  he 
descended  this  river  to  Canon  City.  Every  one  of  Pike's  camps  can  be  fixed 
within  2  or  3  m.,  and  some  of  them  with  absolute  precision.  He  was  never 
on  the  Gunnison,  or  any  other  Pacific  waters.  One  who  wishes  to  satisfy  him- 
self on  all  tliese  points  needs  only  to  study  Pike's  text  with  Sheet  vii.  of  Hay- 
den's  Atlas  of  Colorado. 

'At  or  near  the  place  now  called  Ilowbert,  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  S.  Platte. 
This  great  river  has  its  uttermost  source  in  that  section  of   the  Continental 


FOLLOWING   UP  THE   SOUTH    PLATTE.  467 

being  about  two  miles  wide,  was  covered  for  at  least  six 
miles  along  the  banks  of  the  river  with  horse-dung  and  the 
marks  of  Indian  camps,  which  had  been  made  since  cold 
weather,  as  was  evident  by  the  fires  which  were  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  lodges.  The  sign  made  by  their  horses  was  aston- 
ishing, and  would  have  taken  a  thousand  horses  some 
months.  As  it  was  impossible  to  say  which  course  the  Span- 
iards had  pursued,  amongst  this  multiplicity  of  signs,  we 
halted  early,  and  discovered  that  they  or  the  savages  had 
ascended  the  river.  We  determined  to  pursue  them,  as  the 
geography  of  the  country  had  turned  out  to  be  so  different 
from  our  expectations.  We  were  somewhat  at  a  loss  which 
course  to  pursue,  unless  we  attempted  to  cross  the  snow- 
capped mountains  to  the  southeast  of  us,  which  was  almost 
impossible.  Burst  one  of  our  rifles,  which  was  a  great 
loss,  as  it  made  three  guns  which  had  burst ;  five  had  been 
broken  on  the  march,  and  one  of  my  men  was  now  armed 
with  my  sword  and  pistols.     Killed  two  buffaloes. 

Dec.  15th.  After  repairing  our  guns  we  marched,  but 
were  obliged  to  leave  another  horse.  Ascended  the  river, 
both  sides  of  which  were  covered  with  old  Indian  camps,  at 
which  we  found  corn-cobs.  This  induced  us  to  believe  that 
those  savages,  although  erratic,  must  remain  long  enough  in 

Divide  which  bounds  Soutli  Park  on  the  N.  W.,  above  the  sources  of  the  Arkan- 
saw,  and  in  tlie  southward  continuation  of  the  same  mountains.  The  latter, 
bounding  South  Park  on  the  W.,  and  known  as  the  Park  range,  are  not  the 
Continental  Divide,  because  the  Arkansaw  r.  here  intervenes,  and  the  Divide 
separates  the  Arkansan  water-shed  from  that  of  Gunnison  r.  Having  gath- 
ered its  numerous  tributaries  from  these  mountains,  the  South  Platte  sweeps 
southeastward  across  South  Park,  and  then  turns  abruptly  northeastward  to 
leave  the  Park  by  the  Eleven  Mile  Canon  already  mentioned,  finds  its  way 
through  the  Front  range  south  of  Denver,  and  runs  in  the  prairie  till  it  joins 
the  North  Platte  in  Lincoln  Co.,  Nebraska.  The  Col.  Mid.  R.  R.  now 
runs  from  Colorado  Springs,  past  Florissant,  through  Eleven  Mile  caiion,  and 
skirts  the  South  Platte  across  South  Park,  on  its  way  to  the  already  notable 
mining  camp  Leadville,  which  no  doubt  has  a  future  as  well  as  a  past  ;  the 
Denv.,  S.  P.,  and  Pac.  R.  R.  traverses  South  Park  from  N.  to  S.;  and  each 
of  these  roads  leaves  the  park  on  the  S.  through  Trout  Creek  Pass,  where  Pike 
did  also  when  he  struck  over  for  the  Arkansaw.  These  points  will  appear  more 
clearly  as  we  proceed  to  trail  the  Expedition  through  South  Park. 


468  ON   HEADWATERS   OF  THE   SOUTH   PLATTE. 

one  position  to  cultivate  this  grain,  or  obtain  it  of  the  Span- 
iards. From  their  sign  they  must  have  been  extremely 
numerous,  and  possessed  vast  numbers  of  horses.  My  poor 
fellows  suffered  extremely  with  cold,  being  almost  naked. 
Distance  lO  miles." 

Dec.  i6th.  Marched  up  the  river  about  two  miles  and 
killed  a  buffalo  ;  when,  finding  no  road  up  the  stream,  we 
halted  and  dispatched  parties  in  different  courses,  the  doc- 
tor and  myself  ascending  high  enough  to  enable  me  to  lay 
down  the  course  of  the  river  into  the  mountains.  From  a 
high  ridge  we  reconnoitered  the  adjacent  country,  and  con- 
cluded, putting  the  Spanish  trace  out  of  the  question,  to 
bear  our  course  southwest,  for  the  head  of  Red  river."  One 
of  our  party  found  a  large  camp,  which  had  been  occupied 
by  at  least  3,000  Indians,  with  a  large  cross  in  the  middle. 
Query :  Are  those  people  Catholics  ?  [Answer  :  No — party 
of  Comanches  and  Kiowas,  among  whom  was  James 
Pursley.] 

Dec.  ijth.  Marched ;  and  on  striking  a  left-hand  fork  of 
the  river  we  had  left,  found  it  to  be  the  main  branch  [of  the 
South  Platte] ;  ascended  it  to  some  distance,  but  finding  it 
to  bear  too  much  to  the  north,  we  encamped  about  two 
miles  from  it,  for  the  purpose  of  benefiting  by  its  water. 
Distance  15  miles." 

Dec.  i8th.     Marched,  and  crossed  the  mountain  [one  of 

"  Further  up  the  N.  bank  of  the  S.  Platte,  to  vicinity  of  the  C.  M.  R.  R.  sta- 
tion, Sulphur  Springs. 

"  Which  could  never  be  struck  on  any  such  course  as  this.  To  go  hence  S. 
W.  would  take  the  Expedition  over  the  Park  range  to  the  Arkansaw,  thence  over 
the  Continental  Divide  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Gunnison,  and  so  on. 

"  Hartsell's  or  Hartzell's  ranch  was  located  in  the  crotch  of  the  forks  Pike 
passed,  and  the  town  or  railroad  station  by  this  name  is  now  2  m.  above,  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  S.  fork,  or  Little  Platte  r.  The  two  forks  are  of  approximately 
equal  size  ;  but  the  N.  or  right-hand  fork  is  the  main  one.  The  other,  left- 
hand  one,  which  Pike  goes  up  a  very  short  distance,  and  finds  it  does  not  suit 
him,  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  various  creeks,  among  which  may  be  named 
High,  Herring's  (Agate  cr.  of  Hayden),  Buffalo,  and  Long  Gulch.  Camp  is 
set  about  2  m.  west  of  Hartsell's,  near  where  High  cr.  falls  into  this  branch  of 
the  S.  Platte. 


LEAVING   SOUTH   PARK   BY   TROUT   CREEK   PASS.        469 

the  Trout  Creek  Pass  hills]  which  lay  southwest  of  us  ;  in  a 
distance  of  seven  miles  arrived  at  a  small  spring.  Some  of 
our  lads  observed  that  they  supposed  it  to  be  Red  river,  to 
which  I  then  gave  very  little  credit.  On  entering  a  gap  in  the 
next  mountain  [of  the  Park  range],  came  past  an  excellent 
spring,  which  formed  a  fine  [Trout]  creek.  This  we  followed 
through  narrows  in  the  mountains  for  about  six  miles. 
Found  many  evacuated  camps  of  Indians,  the  latest  yet  seen. 
After  pointing  out  the  ground  for  the  encampment,  the 
doctor  and  myself  went  on  to  make  discoveries,  as  was  our 
usual  custom,  and  in  about  four  miles'  march  we  struck  what 
we  supposed  to  be  Red  river  [but  was  the  Arkansaw], 
which  here  was  about  25  yards  wide,  ran  with  great  rapidity, 
and  was  full  of  rocks.  We  returned  to  the  party  with  the 
news,  which  gave  general  pleasure.  Determined  to  remain 
a  day  or  two  in  order  to  examine  the  source.  Snowing. 
Distance  18  miles." 

Dec.  igth.  Marched  down  the  creek  near  the  opening  of 
the  prairie,  and  encamped  ;"  sent  out  parties  hunting,  etc., 

"Pike  has  actually  got  on  the  old  San  Juan  road,  which  he  follows  more  or 
less  nearly  out  of  South  Park,  as  does  also  a  branch  of  the  Col.  Midi.  R.  R. 
He  enters  those  outliers  of  the  Park  range  called  the  Trout  Creek  Pass  hills, 
gets  over  the  range  itself  by  this  pass,  supposed  to  be  g,8oo  feet  high,  and  goes 
down  Trout  cr.  Some  named  places  near  or  on  his  route  are  Salt  Works,  Mill 
Top,  Higgins',  and  McGee's.  Camp  on  Trout  cr.,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  last 
named  place. 

'*  Merely  shifting  camp  a  little  distance  down  Trout  cr.  from  the  gorge  to  the 
open  country,  about  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  through  which  the  Arkansaw  here 
flows.  It  is  a  very  well  known  place.  The  D.  and  R.  G.,  the  Col.  Midi.,  and 
the  D.,  S.  P.,  and  P.  R.  R.  come  together  here  ;  in  the  immediate  vicinity  are 
places  called  Charcoal  (about  where,  I  suppose,  camp  was  set),  Midway,  and 
Schwanders  ;  a  little  below  is  Nathrop,  where  the  D.,  S.  P.  and  P.  R.  R.  starts 
over  the  Continental  Divide  for  Gunnison;  and  a  little  above  is  Buena  Vista,  seat 
of  Chaffee  Co.,  which  Pike  entered  when  he  made  the  Trout  Creek  Pass.  The 
Arkansaw  is  here  flowing  about  S.  S.  E.  The  Continental  Divide  is  directly 
W.,  15  to  20  m.;  the  mountains  that  make  it  are  the  Sawatch  range,  some  of 
whose  peaks  along  here  are  :  Mt.  Princeton,  i4,igo  feet,  nearest  Pike's  c.imp  ; 
Mt.  Antero,  14,245  ;  Mt.  Shavano,  14,230  ;  Mt.  Keyes,  13,700.  Arnold's  cr. 
falls  in  a  little  below  Trout  cr.,  on  the  same  side  ;  while  from  the  Sawatch  mts. 
come  Chalk  and  Cottonwood  creeks,  respectively  below  and  above  camp.  Pike 
is  going  to  descend  the  Arkansaw  from  this  station  to  Cafion  City  ;  but  he  first 


470  RECONNAISSANCE  UP  THE   ARKANSAW. 

but  had  no  success.  Still  snowing  and  stormy ;  making 
preparations  to  take  an  observation. 

Dec.  20th.  Having  found  a  fine  place  for  pasture  on  the 
river,  sent  our  horses  down  to  it  with  a  guard  ;  also,  three 
parties  out  hunting,  all  of  whom  returned  without  success. 
Took  an  observation.  As  there  was  no  prospect  of  killing 
any  game,  it  was  necessary  that  the  party  should  leave  that 
place.  I  therefore  determined  that  the  doctor  and  Baroney 
should  descend  the  river  in  the  morning  ;  that  myself  and 
two  men  would  ascend ;  and  that  the  rest  of  the  party  should 
descend  after  the  doctor,  until  they  obtained  provisions  and 
could  wait  for  me. 

Sunday,  Dec.  21st.  The  doctor  and  Baroney  marched  ; 
the  party  remained  for  mc  to  take  a  meridional  observation ; 
after  which  we  separated.  Myself  and  the  two  men  who 
accompanied  me,  Mountjoy  and  Miller,  ascended  12  miles" 
and  encamped  on  the  north  side.  The  river  continued  close 
to  the  north  mountain  [Park  range],  running  through  a 
narrow  rocky  channel  in  some  places  not  more  than  20  feet 
wide  and  at  least  10  feet  deep.  Its  banks  were  bordered  by 
yellow  pine,  cedar,  etc. 

Dec.  22d.     Marched  up  [the  Arkansaw]    13  miles,"  to  a 

st.irts  his  people  in  that  direction,  while  with  two  men  he  nia1;es  a  little  recon- 
naissance up  river,  in  the  narrow  valley  between  the  Sawatch  and  Park  ranges. 

"  Pike  stepped  off  the  ties  of  the  Col.  Midi.  R.  R.,  if  he  went  up  the  N.  side 
of  the  river,  and  those  of  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande,  if  he  passed  on  the  other 
side.  His  camp  was  between  the  station  Fisher  of  the  former  railroad,  and 
Riverside  of  the  latter,  below  the  mouth  of  Pine  cr.,  which  comes  down  from 
Mt.  Harvard.  To  reach  this  point,  he  passed  Buena  Vista  and  the  stations 
Dornick  and  Americus  ;  also,  the  place  where  one  Leonard  had  his  ranch,  and 
there  used  to  be  a  toll-gate — for  an  old  mail  route  passed  by  here.  Two  streams 
he  passed  were  Cottonwood  cr.,  on  the  left,  coming  down  from  between  Mts. 
Princeton  and  Yale,  latter  14,187  feet  ;  and  next  Seven  Mile  or  Sweetw.iter  cr., 
on  the  right,  down  a  branch  of  which  came  the  old  California  road.  He  is 
under  the  shadow  of  Mt.  Harvard,  of  the  Sawatch  range,  14,375  feet  high, 
and  Marmot  Peak  in  the  Park  range. 

'"The  highest  point  on  the  Arkansaw  ever  reached  by  the  Expedition,  and 
that  only  by  three  of  its  members.  This  is  the  nearest  Pike  ever  came  to 
Pacific  waters  ;  and  it  is  close  enough  to  have  easily  started  the  erroneous  tradi- 
tion.    This  has  been  given  currency  in  Gcneial  A.  \V.  Greely's  sketch,  and  very 


SIGHTING   THE   SOURCES   OF   THE   ARKANSAW.       47 1 

large  point  of  the  mountain,  whence  we  had  a  view  at  least 
35  miles,  to  where  the  river  entered  the  mountains;  it  being 
at  that  place  not  more  than  10  or  15  feet  wide,  and  properly- 
speaking,  only  a  brook.  From  this  place,  after  taking  the 
course  and  estimating  the  distance,  we  returned  to  our  camp 
of  last  evening.     Killed  one  turkey  and  a  hare. 

Dec.  2jd.  Marched  early,  and  at  two  o'clock  discovered 
the  trace  of  our  party  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river ; 
forded  it,  although  extremely  cold,  and  marched  until  some 
time  in  the  night,  when  we  arrived  at  the  second  night's  en- 

lately  also  supported  by  Governor  Alva  Adams,  in  his  address,  July  I2tli,  1894, 
p.  13,  where  we  read;  "He  wandered  west  over  routes  we  cannot  identify 
until  he  must  have  found  the  Tomichi,  a  tributary  of  the  Gunnison,  and  the 
only  time  Pike  touched  Pacific  waters."  But  let  us  see  about  this.  Assuming 
the  substantial  accuracy  of  Pike's  mileages  for  the  21st  and  22d,  or  at  any  rate, 
that  they  were  not  understated,  and  taking  the  Trout  Creek  camp  to  have  been 
6  m.  below  Buena  Vista,  his  uttermost  point  m.ay  be  fixed  within  a  mile  or  two 
of  Twin  Lakes  station  on  the  D.  and  R.  G.  R.  R.  This  place  takes  name 
from  the  two  beautiful  lakes  which  lie  from  2  to  5  m.  westward.  This  deter- 
mination would  be  more  particularly  acceptalde,  as  the  point  indicated  falls 
almost  exactly  on  the  boundary  between  Chaffee  and  Lake  cos.  I  think,  very 
probably,  that  the  "  large  point  of  the  mountain,"  on  turning  which  Pike  viewed 
the  further  course  of  the  Arkansaw,  was  that  sharp  spur  which  projects  to  the 
river  on  the  left,  3  m.  above  Granite  station  and  Cache  cr. ,  and  at  the  foot  of 
which  falls  in  the  discharge  stream  from  the  lakes.  Pike  could  have  seen  up 
river  a  good  way  from  any  elevation  in  this  vicinity,  though  by  no  means  "  at 
le.ast  35  miles."  I  doubt  that  the  course  of  any  river  in  these  parts  is  continu- 
ously visible  for  this  distance  ;  besides,  there  is  no  35  m.  of  the  Arkansaw  above 
Twin  Lakes.  The  Arkansaw  is  composed  from  three  branches  which  unite 
west  of  Leadville — the  middle,  Tennessee  fork,  heading  in  the  Continental 
Divide,  in  and  near  Tennessee  Pass,  in  relation  with  heads  of  Eagle  r.,  a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Grand  ;  the  east  fork,  heading  .about  Fremont  Pass  with  Ten  Mile 
cr. ,  a  tributary  of  Blue  r.  and  so  of  the  Grand  ;  which  two,  having  joined,  are 
joined  by  the  west  or  L.ake  fork.  There  is  little  to  choose  between  the  middle 
and  east  forks,  as  to  which  is  the  ultimate  "  source  "  of  the  Arkansaw.  Botli 
are  now  meandered  by  the  D.  and  R.  G.  R.  R. ,  the  e.ast  one  also  by  the  Denver, 
Leadville  and  Gunnison  division  of  the  U.  P. ;  while  the  Col.  Midi,  goes  along 
the  west  fork.  Below  the  junction  of  this  fork  the  Arkansaw  receives  various 
small  tributaries,  chiefly  from  the  Park  r.ange  on  the  east,  as  those  from  the 
gulches  known  as  Iowa,  Thompson,  Empire,  Union,  Weston,  and  Granite  ;  the 
corresponding  streams  on  the  other  side,  from  the  Sawatch  range,  mostly  fall 
into  the  west  fork,  as  Half  Moon  cr.  and  others  ;  but  one  which  gathers  from 
Mt.  Elbert  falls  into  the  main  river  2  m.  above  the  discharge  of  Twin  Lakes. 


472  RETURNING   DOWN   THE   ARKANSAW. 

campment  "  of  our  party.  Our  clothing  was  frozen  stiff, 
and  we  ourselves  were  considerably  benumbed. 

Dec.  2^th.  The  party's  provisions  extended  only  to  the 
23d,  and  their  orders  were  not  to  halt  until  they  killed  some 
game,  and  then  wait  for  us ;  consequently  they  might  have 
been  considerably  advanced.  About  eleven  o'clock  met 
Dr.  Robinson  on  a  prairie,  who  informed  me  that  he  and 
Baroney  had  been  absent  from  the  party  two  days  with- 
out killing  anything,  also  without  eating;  but  that  over- 
night they  had  killed  four  buffaloes,  and  that  he  was  in  search 
of  the  men.  I  suffered  the  two  lads  [Miller,  Mountjoy] 
with  me  to  go  to  the  camp  where  the  meat  was,  as  we  had 
also  been  nearly  two  days  without  eating.  The  doctor  and 
myself  pursued  the  trace  and  found  them  encamped  on 
the  river-bottom.  Sent  out  horses  for  the  meat.  Shortly 
afterward  Sparks  arrived  and  informed  us  he  had  killed 
four  cows.  Thus,  from  being  in  a  starving  condition,  we 
had  eight  beeves  in  our  camp.'" 

The  lesser  of  tliese  two  is  fed  by  Lake  and  other  small  streams,  and  discharges 
into  the  greater  one,  which  in  turn  discharges  into  the  Arkansaw.  The  lakes 
are  about  i^^  and  2j4  m.  in  their  respective  diameters.  Between  the  two  is  a 
place  called  Interlaken,  reminding  one  of  the  fact  that  Colorado  is  often  styled 
the  Switzerland  of  America. 

"  We  must  guess  as  well  as  we  can  where  this  was.  Pike,  Miller,  and  Mount- 
joy  started  early  from  their  camp  below  Pine  cr. ,  about  Riverside  station,  and 
made  a  forced  march  well  into  the  night.  We  may  credit  them  with  25  m.,  and 
suppose  them  to  be  below  Nathrop  (which  is  on  Chalk  or.),  and  somewhere  in 
the  vicinity  of  Brown's  cr.,  which  falls  in  from  the  left. 

'*  It  is  specially  desirable  to  fix  this  Christmas  camp,  if  not  for  the  sentiment 
of  the  thing,  then  because  it  is  our  initial  point  for  the  whole  journey  hence 
down  the  Arkansaw  to  Cation  City.  From  anything  that  has  preceded  we  do 
not  know  where  it  was,  within  10  m.  But  on  the  26th  Pike  notes  a  "large 
stream  "  from  the  south,  at  7;^  m.  This  is  the  South  Arkansaw,  which  falls 
in  very  near  the  well-known  town  of  Salida.  Salida  is  7  m.  by  rail  below  a 
station  called  Brown  Canon,  wliich  latter  is  a  little  above  Squaw  cr.  Between 
Salida  and  Brown  Caiion  the  country  is  open  and  park -like  among  the  moun- 
tains—just the  sort  of  a  place  where  buffalo  would  herd  in  the  winter.  The 
seasonable  supply  of  eight  beeves  was  got  in  consequence,  and  I  have  no  doubt 
that  Christmas  was  spent  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Brown  Caiion.  The 
mountain  f.istnesses  about  the  headwaters  of  the  Arkansaw  long  continued  to 
be  wintering-grounds   for  the  buffalo.     Thus  we  find  one  of  the  most  expcri- 


ROAST  BEEF   FOR   CHRISTMAS.  473 

We  now  again  found  ourselves  all  assembled  together  on 
Christmas  Eve,  and  appeared  generally  to  be  content,  al- 
though all  the  refreshment  we  had  to  celebrate  that  day  with 
was  buffalo  meat,  without  salt,  or  any  other  thing  whatever. 
My  little  excursion  up  the  river  had  been  in  order  to  estab- 
lish the  geography  of  the  sources  of  the  supposed  Red  river. 
As  I  well  knew  that  the  indefatigable  researches  of  Dr. 
Hunter,  [William]  Dunbar,  and  [Thomas]  Freeman  had  left 
nothing  unnoticed  in  the  extent  of  their  voyage  up  said 
river,  I  determined  that  its  upper  branches  should  be  equally 
well  explored.  In  this  voyage  I  had  already  ascertained  the 
sources  of  the  [Little]  Osage  and  White  [Neosho]  rivers,  been 
round  the  head  of  the  Kans  river  [?'.  c,  above  the  confluence 
of  its  Smoky  Hill  and  Republican  forks],  and  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  [South]  Platte. 

Dec.  25th.  It  being  stormy  weather  and  having  meat  to 
dry,  I  concluded  to  lie  by  this  day.  Here  I  must  take 
the  liberty  of  observing  that,  in  this  situation,  the  hardships 
and  privations  we  underwent  were  on  this  day  brought  more 
fully  to  our  mind,  having  been  accustomed  to  some  degree 
of  relaxation,  and  extra  enjoyments.  But  here,  800  miles 
from  the  frontiers  of  our  country,  in  the  most  inclement  sea- 
son of  the  year — not  one  person  clothed  for  the  winter — 
many  without  blankets,  having  been  obliged  to  cut  them  up 
for  socks,  etc.,  and  now  lying  down  at  night  on  the  snow  or 
wet  ground,  one  side  burning  whilst  the  other  was  pierced 
with  the  cold  wind — such  was  in  part  the  situation  of  the 
party,  whilst  some  were  endeavoring  to  make  a  miserable 
substitute  of  raw  buffalo  hide  for  shoes,  etc.  I  will  not  speak 
of  diet,  as  I  conceive  that  to  be  beneath  the  serious  consid- 

enced  officers  of  our  army  making  the  following  remark  :  "  Although  gener- 
ally regarded  as  migratory  in  their  habits,  yet  the  buff.ilo  often  winter  in  the 
snows  of  a  high  northern  latitude.  Early  in  the  spring  of  1858  I  found  them  in 
the  Rocky  mountains,  at  the  head  of  the  Arkansas  and  South  Platte  rivet-s,  and 
there  was  every  indication  that  this  was  a  permanent  abiding  place  for  them," 
says  Marcy,  Pra.  Trav.  1859,  p.  234,  half  a  century  after  Pike's  fortunate  find. 
The  herd  now  preserved  in  Yellowstone  Park  has  no  trouble  with  the  deepest 
snows  and  coldest  weather  of  that  region. 


474  PAST  CONFLUENCE   OF   SOUTH   ARKANSAW. 

eration  of  a  man  on  a  voyage  of  such  a  nature.  We  spent 
the  day  as  agreeably  as  could  be  expected  from  men  in  our 
situation. 

Caught  a  bird  of  a  new  species  {^Cofiurus  caroIincnsis\ 
having  made  a  trap  for  him.  This  bird  was  of  a  green  color, 
almost  the  size  of  a  quail,  had  a  small  tuft  on  its  head  like 
a  pheasant,  and  was  of  the  carnivorous  species ;  it  differed 
from  any  bird  we  ever  saw  in  the  United  States.  We  kept 
him  with  us  in  a  small  wicker  cage,  feeding  him  on  meat, 
until  I  left  the  interpreter  on  the  Arkansaw,  with  whom  I 
left  it.  We  at  one  time  took  a  companion  of  the  same  spe- 
cies and  put  them  in  the  same  cage,  when  the  first  resident 
never  ceased  attacking  the  stranger  until  he  killed  him. 

Dec.  26th.  Marched  at  two  o'clock  and  made  73/  miles 
to  the  entrance  of  the  mountains."  On  this  piece  of  prairie 
the  river  spreads  considerably,  and  forms  several  small 
islands  ;  a  large  stream  [South  Arkansaw]  enters  from  the 
south.  As  my  boy  and  some  others  were  sick,  I  omitted 
pitching  our  tent  in  order  that  they  might  have  it ;  in  con- 
sequence of  which  we  were  completely  covered  with  snow 
on  top,  as  well  as  that  part  on  which  we  lay. 

Dec.  zyth.  Marched  over  an  extremely  rough  road  ;  our 
horses  received  frequent  falls,  and  cut  themselves  consider- 
ably on  the  rocks.  From  there  being  no  roads  of  buffalo, 
or  signs  of  horses,  I  am  convinced  that  neither  those  animals, 
nor  the  aborigines  of  the  country,  ever  take  this  route,  to  go 
from  the  source  of  the  river  out  of  the  mountains  ;  but  that 

"  Down  the  Arkansaw,  p.ist  Squaw  cr.,  right,  and  some  nins  in  the  park  he 
traversed,  also  past  the  stations  Bellevue  and  Salida,  to  the  month  of  the  South 
Arkansaw  r.,  where  the  so-called  Arkansaw  hills  on  the  north  close  in  against 
the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  on  the  south,  thus  straitening  the  valley.  The  S. 
Arkansaw  heads  about  Mts.  Shavano  and  Keyes  ;  its  principal  branch  is 
Poncho  or  Pvmcho  cr.  There  was  a  good  road  up  both  these  streams,  which 
are  now  meandered  by  railroads.  Had  Pike  known  it,  he  could  have  struck 
up  the  S.  Arkansaw  to  Poncho  or.,  and  up  this  by  Poncho  Pass  into  Homan"s 
Park.  This  is  west  of  the  great  Sangre  de  Cristo  range,  and  is  in  fact  the 
upper  part  of  the  San  Luis  valley  or  basin  of  the  Upper  Rio  Grande,  which 
Pike  only  reaches  by  a  roundabout  way,  after  subjecting  himself  and  his 
men  to  almost  incredible  sufferings.     But  it  is  easy  to  be  wise  after  the  event. 


CONTINUING   DOWN  THE  ARKANSAW.  475 

they  must  cross  one  of  the  chains  to  the  right  or  left,  and 
find  a  smoother  tract  to  the  lower  country.  Were  obliged 
to  unload  our  horses  and  carry  the  baggage  at  several  places. 
Distance  12^  miles.°° 

Sunday,  Dec.  2Sth.  Marched  over  an  open  space  [Pleasant 
Valley]  ;  and,  from  the  appearance  before  us,  concluded  we 
were  going  out  of  the  mountains  ;  but  at  night  encamped 
at  the  entrance  of  the  most  perpendicular  precipices  on 
both  sides,  through  which  the  river  ran  and  our  course  lay. 
Distance  16  miles." 

Dec.  2gtli.  Marched  ;  but  owing  to  the  extreme  rugged- 
ness  of  the  road,  made  but  five  miles.'"'"  Saw  one  of  a  new 
species  of  animal  on  the  mountains  ;  ascended  to  kill  him, 
but  did  not  succeed.  Finding  the  impossibility  of  getting 
along  with  the  horses,  made  one  sled,  which  with  the  men 
of  three  horses,  carries  their  load  \i.  c,  on  which  the  men 
dragged  the  loads  of  three  horses]. 

Dec.joth.  Marched;  but  at  half  past  one  o'clock  were 
obliged  to  halt  and  send  back  for  the  sled  loads,  as  the  men 
had  broken  it  and  could  not  proceed,  owing  to  the  waters 
running  over  the  ice.  Crossed  our  horses  twice  on  the  ice. 
Distance  eight  miles."' 

Dec.  Jist.  Marched  ;  had  frequently  to  cross  the  river  on 
the  ice  ;  horses  falling  down,  we  were  obliged  to   pull  tliem 

™  To  a  point  on  the  Arkansavv  about  tlie  mouth  of  Badger  cr.,  from  the  N.; 
vicinity  of  station  Wellsville  or  Badger. 

'"  Camp  in  vicinity  of  th<at  elliow  which  the  river  makes,  nearly  from  S.  E. 
to  E.  N.  E.,  and  near  where  tliere  is  a  way  up  a  creek  from  the  S.  over  the 
S.  de  C.  range  by  Hayden's  Pass.  Tlie  position  is  short  of  Bernard  and  even 
of  Oak  Grove  cr. 

^'^  Only  to  the  vicinity  of  Bernard  cr.  (past  Cotopaxi).  Pike's  mileages  appear 
excessive  for  the  actual  advance  made,  in  comparison  with  modern  schedules  ; 
but  he  has  to  step  over  much  ground  for  comparatively  little  progress.  All  his 
distances  to  Jan.  5th  require  adjustment,  or  we  should  fetch  him  out  a  long 
way  below  Canon  City. 

"Camp  about  the  mouth  of  Texas  cr. ,  a  considerable  stream  from  the 
.S. ,  which  falls  in  three  or  four  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Corral  or  Carroll 
cr. ,  another  large  one  from  the  N.;  Texas  Creek  station  and  a  place  tailed 
Ford  in  the  vicinity. 


476  APPROACHING   THE   GRAND   CANON. 

over  on  the  ice.  The  river  turned  so  much  to  the  nortli  as 
almost  induced  us  to  believe  it  was  the  Arkansaw.  Dis- 
tance 10^  miles." 

Jan.  1st,  iSoj.  The  doctor  and  one  man  marched  early, 
in  order  to  precede  the  party  until  they  should  kill  a  supply 
of  provision.  We  had  great  difficulty  in  getting  our  horses 
along,  some  of  the  poor  animals  having  nearly  killed  them- 
selves in  falling  on  the  ice.  Found  on  the  way  one  of  the 
mountain  rams  [bighorn,  Ovis  inontand\,  which  the  doctor 
and  Brown  had  killed  and  left  in  the  road.  Skinned  it  with 
horns,  etc.  At  night  ascended  a  mountain,  and  discovered 
a  prairie  ahead  about  eight  miles,  the  news  of  which  gave 
great  joy  to  the  party. 

Jan.  2d.  Labored  all  day,  but  made  only  one  mile  ;  many 
of  our  horses  were  much  wounded  in  falling  on  the  rocks. 
Provision  growing  short,  left  Stoute  and  Miller  with  two 
loads,  to  come  on  with  a  sled  on  the  ice,  which  was  on  the 
water  in  some  of  the  coves.  Finding  it  almost  impossible  to 
proceed  any  further  with  the  horses  by  the  bed  of  the  river, 
ascended  the  mountain  and  immediately  after  were  again 
obliged  to  descend  an  almost  perpendicular  side  of  the  moun- 
tain ;  in  effecting  which,  one  horse  fell  down  the  precipice, 
and  bruised  himself  so  miserably  that  I  conceived  it  mercy 
to  cause  the  poor  animal  to  be  shot.  Many  others  were 
nearly  killed  with  falls  received.  Left  two  more  men  with 
loads,  and  tools  to  make  sleds.  The  two  men  we  had  left 
in  the  morning  had  passed  us. 

Jan.  jd.  Left  two  more  men  to  make  sleds  and  come 
on.     We  pursued  the  river,  and  with  great  difficulty  made 

'*Camp  in  the  vicinity  of  the  station  Spikebuck.  The  river  here  bears 
noticeably  to  the  N.  E.  A  little  further  along  there  is  a  sharp  turn  to  tlie 
S.  E.,  at  Parkdale.  This  place  is  at  the  head  of  the  Grand  Canon  proper,  or 
Royal  Gorge,  by  rail  lO  m.  above  Canon  City,  22  below  Cotopaxi,  and  46 
below  Salida;  total,  56  m.  from  what  is  practically  the  same  as  Pike's  camp 
of  Dec.  26th  to  that  of  Jan.  5th,  when  he  readies  Canon  City.  These  figures 
may  be  here  compared  with  his  mileages,  which  are  :  l2}^-|-i6-f-5-j-8-|-lo3^-)- 
l-\-ti-\-?>-\-T  —  T^%.  Details  aside,  the  routes  are  identical  ;  and  a  discrepancy 
of  17  or  18  m.  is  not  more  than  would  be  expected  under  the  circumstances. 


CONFRONTING  THE  GRAND  CANON.        477 

six  miles  by  frequently  cutting  roads  on  the  ice,  and  cover- 
ing it  with  earth,  in  order  to  go  round  precipices,  etc.  The 
men  left  in  the  morning  encamped  with  us  at  night ;  but 
those  of  the  day  before  we  saw  nothing  of.  This  day  two 
of  the  horses  became  senseless  from  the  bruises  received  on 
the  rocks,  and  were  obliged  to  be  left." 

Sunday,  Jan.  ^th.  We  made  the  prairie  about  three 
o'clock,  when  I  detached  Baroncy  and  two  soldiers  with 
the  horses,  in  order  to  find  some  practicable  way  for  them  to 
get  out  of  the  mountains  light.  I  then  divided  the  others 
into  two  parties  of  two  men  each,  to  make  sleds  and  bring 
on  the  baggage.  I  determined  to  continue  down  the  river 
alone,  until  I  could  kill  some  sustenance,  and  find  the  two 
men  who  left  us  on  the  2d  inst.,  or  the  doctor  and  his  com- 
panion ;  for  we  had  no  provision,  and  everyone  had  then 
to  depend  on  his  own  exertion  for  safety  and  subsistence. 
Thus  we  were  divided  into  eight  different  parties,  viz.: 
1st.  The  doctor  and  his  companion;  2d.  The  two  men 
with  the  first  sled ;  3d.  The  interpreter  and  the  two  men 
with  the  horses ;  4th.  Myself ;  5th,  6th,  7th,  8th,  two  men 
each,  with  sleds  at  different  distances ;  all  of  whom,  except 
the  last,  had  orders,  if  they  killed  any  game,  to  secure  some 
part  in  a  conspicuous  place,  for  their  companions  in  the 
rear.  I  marched  about  five  miles  on  the  river,  which  was 
one  continued  fall  through  a  narrow  channel,  with  immense 
cliffs  on  both  sides."     Near  night  I  came  to  a  place  where 

'"  For  the  past  three  days  the  party  has  been  struggling  with  cumulative 
difficulties  that  threaten  to  become  insurmountable,  and  are  already  strung 
along  miles  apart  in  the  mountains.  Yet  Pike  is  only  at  the  head  of  the  Royal 
Gorge — that  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansaw  which  he  had  before  noted  from  its 
lower  end  and  regarded  as  impabsable  for  horses.  Parkdale  is  the  place  wliere 
Currant  cr.  falls  in  on  the  N.  or  left.  This  is  the  large  creek  which  heads  in 
the  mountains  about  South  Park,  and  which  we  have  heard  of  before,  when  the 
Oil  Creek  route  to  that  park  was  in  question  :  see  back,  note  ',  p.  464.  Now 
we  see  more  clearly  than  before  that  Pike  never  went  up  Currant  cr.  This  has 
two  principal  branches,  both  from  the  W.,  one  called  Cottonwood  and  the  other 
TaUahassee  (Hayden),  Tallahassa  (Wheeler),  or  Talahsee  (G.  L.  O.,  1892, 
brought  into  the  Arkansaw  as  a  separate  tributary). 

^'  It  should  be  noted  here  that  not  one  of  the  eight  straggling  parties  managed 


478  STRUGGLING   WITH   THE   GRAND   CANON. 

the  rocks  were  perpendicular  on  both  sides,  and  there  was 
no  ice,  except  a  narrow  border  on  the  water.  I  began 
to  look  about,  in  order  to  discover  which  way  the  doctor 
and  his  companion  had  managed,  and  to  find  what  had 
become  of  the  two  lads  with  the  first  sled,  when  I  dis- 
covered one  of  the  latter  climbing  up  the  side  of  the  rocks. 
I  called  to  him  ;  he  and  his  companion  immediately  joined 
me.  They  said  they  had  not  known  whether  we  were 
before  or  in  the  rear ;  that  they  had  eaten  nothing  for  the 
last  two  days,  and  that  this  night  they  had  intended  to 
have  boiled  a  deer-skin  to  subsist  on.  We  at  length  dis- 
covered a  narrow  ravine,  where  was  the  trace  of  the  doctor 
and  his  companion ;  as  the  water  had  run  down  it  and 
frozen  hard,  it  was  one  continuous  sheet  of  ice.  We 
ascended  it  with  the  utmost  difficulty  and  danger,  loaded 
with  the  baggage.  On  the  summit  of  the  first  ridge  we 
found  an  encampment  of  the  doctor,  and  where  they  had 
killed  a  deer ;  but  they  had  now  no  meat.  He  afterward 
informed  me  that  they  had  left  the  greatest  part  of  it 
hanging  on  a  tree,  but  supposed  the  birds  had  destroyed  it. 
I  left  the  boys  to  bring  up  the  remainder  of  the  baggage, 
and  went  out  in  order  to  kill  some  subsistence ;  wounded 
a  deer,  but  the  darkness  of  the  night  approaching,  could 
not  find  him.  I  returned  hungry,  weary,  and  dry,  and  had 
only  snow  to  supply  the  calls  of  nature.  Distance  8  miles. 
Jan.  jth.  I  went  out  in  the  morning  to  hunt,  while  the 
two  lads  were  bringing  up  some  of  their  loads  still  left  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain.  Wounded  several  deer,  but  was 
surprised  to  find  I  killed  none.  On  examining  my  gun  dis- 
covered her  bent,  owing,  as  I  suppose,  to  some  fall  on  the 

to  get  through  the  canon  itself.  Some  came  over  the  mountains  on  the  N., 
and  the  rest  over  those  on  the  S.  Pike  alone  essayed  the  gorge,  but  only  got 
halfway  through.  Next  morning  he  escaped  by  scrambling  up  a  small  side  canon 
which  occurs  on  the  N.  side,  and  came  down  on  the  N.  of  Noonan's  Peak. 
This  is  the  mountain  that  overhangs  Canon  City,  standing  guard  at  the  throat 
of  the  gorge.  Dr.  Robinson  and  his  man  came  that  way  too.  Vasquez  and  his 
men  brought  the  horses  the  other  way,  across  Webster  Park,  and  had  an  easier 
time  of  it.     It  was  three  days  before  all  the  party  got  in. 


ESCAPING   FROM   THE   GRAND   CANON.  479 

ice  or  rocks ;  shortly  afterward  received  a  fall  on  the  side 
of  a  hill,  which  broke  her  off  by  the  breach.  This  put  me 
into  dc'scspoir,  as  I  calculated  on  it  as  my  grandest  resource 
for  the  great  part  of  my  party  ;  returned  to  my  companions 
sorely  fatigued  and  hungry.  I  then  took  a  double-barreled 
gun  and  left  them,  with  assurances  that  the  first  animal  I 
killed,  I  would  return  with  part  for  their  relief.  About  ten 
o'clock  rose  [that  is,  I  surmounted]  the  highest  summit  of 
the  [Noonan]  mountain,  when  the  unbounded  spaces  of  the 
prairie  again  presented  themselves  to  my  view ;  and  from 
some  distant  peaks  I  immediately  recognized  it  to  be  the 
outlet  of  the  Arkansaw,  which  we  had  left  nearly  one 
month  since.  This  was  a  great  mortification  ;  but  at  the 
same  time  I  consoled  myself  with  the  knowledge  I  had 
acquired  of  the  sources  of  La  Platte  and  Arkansaw  rivers, 
with  the  river  to  the  northwest,  supposed  to  be  the  Pierre 
Jaun  [Roche  Jaune,  Yellowstone"'],  which  scarcely  any  per- 
son but  a  madman  would  ever  purposely  attempt  to  trace 
further  than  the  entrance  of  those  mountains  which  had 
hitherto  secured  their  sources  from  the  scrutinizing  eye  of 
civilized  man. 

I  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  and  bank  of  the 
river,  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  the  same  time  discovered,  on 
the  other  shore,  Baroney  with  the  horses  ;  they  had  found 
quite  an  eligible  pass  [through  Webster  Park],  and  had 
killed  one  buffalo  and  some  deer.  We  proceeded  to  our  old 
camp  [Caflon  City],  which  we  had  left  the  loth  of  Decem- 
ber, and  reoccupied  it.     Saw  the  traces  of  the  doctor  and 

"  Pike's  map  shows  "  Yellow  Stone  River  Branch  of  the  Missouri,"  with  his 
trail  looped  up  to  it.  This  of  course  is  an  egregious  error,  as  the  Yellowstone 
is  much  further  off,  beyond  anything  that  Pike  sighted  when  he  was  highest  on 
the  Arkansaw,  Dec.  22d.  Next  N.  of  him  there,  and  on  the  W.  of  the  Conti- 
nental Divide,  was  Grand  r. ,  which  unites  with  the  Green  to  form  the  Colorado 
of  the  West.  Tliis  arises  in  Middle  Park.  North  of  this  .again,  in  North  Park, 
are  the  headwaters  of  the  North  Platte  ;  and  the  southernmost  heads  of  the 
Yellowstone  are  still  beyond  these.  The  mountains  which  Pike  legends  ' '  White 
Snow "  are  the  Sawatch  range,  continued  southward  by  the  Sangre  de  Cristo 
range.     All  this  part  of  Pike's  map  is  too  defective  to  be  of  any  use  in  tracing 


480  IN  CAMP   AT  CA550N   CITY   AGAIN. 

his  companion,  but  could  not  discover  their  retreat.  This 
was  my  birth-day,  and  most  fervently  did  I  hope  never  to 
pass  another  so  miserably.  Fired  a  gun  off  as  a  signal  for 
the  doctor.     Distance  seven  miles. 

Jan.  6th.  Dispatched  the  two  soldiers  back  with  some 
provision  to  meet  the  first  lads  and  assist  them  on,  and  sent 
the  interpreter  hunting.  About  eight  o'clock  the  doctor 
came  in,  having  seen  some  of  the  men.  He  had  been  con- 
fined to  the  camp  for  one  or  two  days,  by  a  vertigo  which 
proceeded  from  some  berries  he  had  eaten  on  the  moun- 
tains. His  companion  brought  down  six  deer,  which  they 
had  at  their  camp  ;  thus  we  again  began  to  be  out  of  dan- 
ger of  starving.  In  the  afternoon  some  of  the  men  arrived, 
and  part  were  immediately  returned  with  provisions,  etc. 
Killed  three  deer. 

Jan.  ytli.  Sent  more  men  back  to  assist  in  the  rear,  and 
to  carry  the  poor  fellows  provisions  ;  at  the  same  time  kept 
Baroney  and  one  man  hunting.     Killed  three  deer. 

Jan.  8th.  Some  of  the  different  parties  arrived.  Put  one 
man  to  stocking  my  rifle  ;  others  were  sent  back  to  assist  up 
the  rear.     Killed  two  deer. 

Jan.  gth.  The  whole  party  were  once  more  joined  to- 
gether, when  we  felt  comparatively  happy,  notwithstanding 
the  great  mortification  I  experienced  at  having  been  so  egre- 
giously  deceived  as  to  the  Red  river.  I  now  felt  at  consider- 
able loss  how  to  proceed,  as  any  idea  of  services  at  that  time 
from  my  horses  was  entirely  preposterous.  After  various 
plans  formed  and  rejected,  and  the  most  mature  delibera- 

the  trip  just  ended,  and  I  have  not  had  occasion  to  adduce  it  in  support  of  the 
text  since  we  started  up  Oil  cr.  The  dotted  trail  loops  up  the  Arkansaw  far 
beyond  the  point  Pike  reached,  and  a  number  of  the  camps  he  made  are 
omitted.  The  best  delineation  of  Pike's  route  in  South  Park  and  about  the 
headwaters  of  the  Arkansaw  is  that  traced  on  Josiah  Gregg's  map  of  the  Indian 
Territory,  etc.,  in  his  Commerce  of  the  Prairie,  1S44.  This  loops  Pike  around 
the  Park,  thence  almost  to  the  source  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  back  down  this 
river — which  is  quite  right.  This  case  must  be  more  accentuated,  because  tradi- 
tion will  have  it  that  Pike  got  over  on  Pacific  waters — not  a  drop  of  which  he 
ever  saw. 


BUILDING    THE   BLOCKHOUSE   THERE.  48 1 

tion,  I  determined  to  build  a  small  place  for  defense  and 
deposit ; '"  leave  part  of  the  baggage,  horses,  my  interpreter, 
and  one  man  [Smith]  ;  and  with  the  balance,  our  packs  of 
Indian  presents,  ammunition,  tools,  etc.,  on  our  backs,  cross 
the  mountains  on  foot,  find  the  Red  river,  and  then  send 
back  a  party  to  conduct  the  horses  and  baggage  by  the  most 
eligible  route  we  could  discover  ;  by  which  time  the  horses 
would  be  so  recovered  as  to  be  able  to  endure  the  fatigues 
of  the  march.  In  consequence  of  this  determination,  some 
were  put  to  constructing  the  blockhouse,  some  to  hunting, 
some  to  taking  care  of  horses,  etc.  I  myself  made  prepara- 
tions to  pursue  a  course  of  observations  which  would  enable 
me  to  ascertain  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  this  situation, 
which  I  conceived  to  be  an  important  one.  Killed  three 
deer. 

Jan.  lotli.  Killed  five  deer.  Took  equal  altitudes  and 
angular  distances  of  two  stars,  etc.,  but  do  not  now  recollect 
which.     Killed  three  deer. 

'*  Marked  "  D  Block  house  "  on  Pike's  map.  Lewis  and  Clark's  map  of  1814 
letters  "  a  Block  House  U.  S.  Factory  in  1S06"  on  the  same  spot  on  the  "  Rio 
de  Nanesi,"  i.  e.,  the  Arkansaw.  The  building  stood  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Arkansaw,  doubtless  within  present  limits  of  Canon  City.  All  trace  of  the 
structure  seems  to  be  gone,  and  I  doubt  that  the  precise  spot  will  ever  be  re- 
covered. My  correspondence  with  several  persons  in  Caiion  City  and  vicinity 
has  availed  nothing.     But  the  location  at  Caiion  City  is  unquestionable. 

The  terrible  trip  Pike  now  ventures  to  make  should  not  have  been  attempted 
in  the  dead  of  winter,  with  his  miserable  outfit.  Pike  was  brave  to  excess,  as 
we  know  ;  that  and  the  mysterious  crux  of  the  orders  he  had  from  Wilkinson 
about  the  Spanish  business  must  excuse  this  particular  piece  of  foolhardihood. 
A  more  experienced  mountaineer,  with  any  concern  for  his  own  life,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  lives  of  his  men,  would  not  have  bucked  up  against  those  moun- 
tains under  such  circumstances.  If  he  had  had  to  hunt  for  the  unknown  sources 
of  a  river  which  came  eastward  from  there,  he  would  have  backed  out  of  the 
mountains,  gone  down  the  Arkansaw  a  piece,  struck  south  at  his  convenience  till 
he  found  his  river,  and  then  considered  the  chances  of  being  able  to  follow  it 
up  to  its  source.  That  Red  r.  of  which  Pike  is  supposed  to  have  gone  in  search 
was  never  found,  for  the  simple  reason  that  there  is  no  such  river  in  that  part  of 
the  world — as  probably  Pike  himself  knew.  He  had  a  chip  on  each  shoulder 
for  some  Spaniard  to  please  knock  off ;  his  coat-tails  were  dragging  all  over 
the  R.  mts.  for  some  Spaniard  to  please  step  on  ;  and  he  would  rather  have 
broken  some  Spanish  heads  than  have  discovered  the  head  of  any  river. 


482  THE   START   UP   GKAPE   CREEK. 

Sunday,  Jan.  iitJi.  Ascertained  the  latitude  and  took  the 
angular  distances  of  some  stars.     Killed  four  deer. 

Jan.  I2tli.  Prepared  the  baggage  for  a  march  by  sepa- 
rating it,  etc.     Observations  continued. 

Ja7i.  13th.  Weighed  out  each  man's  pack.  This  day  I 
obtained  the  angle  between  sun  and  moon,  which  1  con- 
ceived the  most  correct  way  I  possessed  of  ascertaining  the 
longitude,  as  an  immersion  and  emersion  of  Jupiter's  satel- 
lites could  not  be  obtained.     Killed  four  deer. 

Jan.  li^tJi.  We  marched  our  party,  consisting  of  18  [read 
12]^'  soldiers,  the  doctor,  and  myself,  each  of  us  carrying 
45  pounds  and  as  much  provision  as  he  thought  proper, 
which,  with  arms,  etc.,  made  on  an  average  70  pounds. 
Left  Baroney  and  one  man,  Patrick  Smith  [in  the  block- 
house at  Cafion  City]. 

We  crossed  the  first  ridge,  leaving  the  main  branch  of 
the  river  to  the  north  of  us,  and  struck  on  the  south  fork 
[Grape  creek],  on  which  we  encamped,  intending  to  pursue 
it  through  the  mountains,  as  its  course  was  more  southerly. 
Distance  13  miles.^" 

^'This  "  18"  is  a  misprint  for  12.  There  were  but  16  persons  all  told,  of 
whom  2  are  left  when  Pike,  Robinson,  and  I2  soldiers  proceed  to  tempt  fate. 
The  12  were :  Sergeant  Meek,  Corporal  Jackson,  Privates  Brown,  Carter, 
Dougherty,  Gorden,  Menaugh,  Miller,  Mountjoy,  Roy,  Sparks,  Stoute. 

'"The  "South  fork"  of  the  Arkansaw,  afterward  sometimes  called  Pike's 
fork,  as  for  example  on  Gregg's  map,  1844,  and  which  he  now  proceeds  to  as- 
cend, is  Grape  cr.  This  considerable  stream  arises  on  the  eastern  slopes  of  the 
Sangre  de  Cristo  range,  waters  the  Wet  Mountain  valley,  receives  various 
tributaries  from  the  western  slope  of  the  Wet  mts.,  and  traverses  a  gorge  in 
the  latter  to  fall  into  the  Arkansaw  from  the  S.  W.,  about  a  mile  above  Caiion 
City.  The  general  course  is  about  N.  from  its  uttermost  head  in  the  S.  de  C. 
range,  in  the  vicinity  of  Music  Pass.  Here  its  watershed  is  separated,  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  range,  by  a  divide,  on  the  other  side  of  which  are  certain 
sources  of  the  Huerfano  r. ;  while  on  the  west  of  the  S.  de  C.  range  the  con- 
nection is  with  "  Meadow  "  (qu.  Medano?)  cr.,  a  tributary  of  San  Luis  cr.,  in  the 
valley  of  the  latter  name,  and  consequently  in  the  basin  of  the  Rio  Grande— 
that  "Red  river"  which  Pike  seeks  in  vain.  To-day  he  strikes  Grape  cr. 
at  or  near  present  site  of  Williamsburg,  a  station  on  the  railroad  which  once 
meandered  Grape  cr.  to  Silver  Cliff,  but  was  washed  out  and  abandoned.  This 
is  a  good  way  below  the  entrance  of  Pine  cr. ,  a  branch  which  falls  into  Grape  cr. 


INTO   THE    WET    MOUNTAIN   VALLEY.  483 

Jan.  i^th.  Followed  up  this  branch  and  passed  the  main 
ridge  of  what  I  term  the  Blue  [now  Wet]  mountains.  Halted 
early.  The  doctor,  myself,  and  one  hunter  went  out  with 
our  guns ;  each  killed  a  deer,  and  brought  them  into  camp. 
Distance  19  miles."' 

Jan.  i6th.  Marched  up  the  [Grape]  creek  all  day.  En- 
camped early,  as  it  was  snowing.  I  went  out  to  hunt,  but 
killed  nothing.  Deer  on  the  hill ;  the  [Wet]  mountains 
lessening.     Distance  18  miles.'^ 

Jan.  ijth.  Marched  about  four  miles,  when  the  great 
White  mountain "   presented   itself  before  us,   in   sight  of 

from  the  W.  This  may  seem  short  for  the  "  13  "  m.  of  the  text  ;  but  if  anyone 
should  think  so,  he  has  only  to  start  from  Canon  City  to  change  his  mind  by  the 
time  he  finds  himself  on  Grape  or.  by  the  present  best  trail.  Besides,  we  shall 
soon  see  that  we  have  to  shorten  up  all  of  Pike's  mileages  in  this  rough  country. 

"  Past  Pine  cr.,  to  some  point  on  Grape  cr.  short  of  the  boundary  between 
Fremont  and  Custer  cos.,  probably  in  the  vicinity  of  Soda  Springs  or  the  station 
Grape.  Pike  is  flanking  a  mountain  as  well  as  meandering  a  crooked  creek  ; 
and,  aside  from  any  question  of  typographical  error,  we  have  to  adjust  his  whole 
set  of  ostensible  mileages  by  the  topography  of  the  country.  If  we  should 
apply  the  figures  he  gives  to  the  flat  face  of  the  map,  we  should  run  him  clear 
over  into  New  Mexico  before  he  reaches  his  camp  on  the  Conejos  in  Colorado. 

'''  Over  the  line  from  Fremont  into  Custer  Co.,  past  Grape  and  Blackbuni,  to 
camp  about  the  mouth  of  Silver  cr.  This  heads  about  Mt.  Tyndall  and  Mt. 
Herring,  and  by  another  branch  N.  of  these  ;  it  runs  N.  W.  and  then  N.  to 
fall  into  Grape  cr.,  between  Blackburn  and  Gove.  Camp  is  6  or  8  m.  (air-line) 
due  N.  of  Round  mt.  and  town  of  Silver  Cliff  ;  but  much  further  by  the  mean- 
ders of  the  creek  or  either  of  the  roads  through  the  mountains. 

"  "  White"  and  "Snow"  are  Pike's  names  for  wh.at  he  regarded  as  a  con- 
tinuous chain  from  as  far  N.  as  he  knew  anything  about  it,  to  the  Sierra  Blanca 
of  New  Mexico.  That  is  to  say,  the  names  cover  the  whole  Sawatch  range, 
along  the  Continental  Divide,  and  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  ;  which  latter 
separates  the  Arkansaw  from  the  Rio  Grande  basin,  and  ends  on  the  S.  with 
the  bold  elevations  of  the  Sierra  Blanca,  or  White  mts.  of  modern  geography. 
In  saying  that  the  "  great  White  mount.ain  presented  itself,"  Pike  means  that 
he  has  reached  a  point  in  the  Wet  Mountain  valley  where  he  has  the  Sangre 
de  Cristo  range  immediately  before  him,  on  the  W.  In  this  direction  are  the 
heads  of  the  Texas  cr.,  already  mentioned  (p.  475),  and  of  Swift  or  Dutch  cr., 
draining  eastern  slopes  of  the  mountains,  two  of  the  nearest  points  of  which  are 
Electric  Peak  and  Monte  Rito  Alto,  the  latter  12,863  "^  12,989  feet  high,  .ac- 
cording to  whether  Lieut.  Wheeler  or  Dr.  Hayden  made  the  most  accurate 
determination. 


484  FREEZING. 

which  we  had  been  for  more  than  one  month,  and  through 
which  we  supposed  lay  the  long-sought  Red  river.  We 
now  left  the  [Grape]  creek  on  the  north  of  us,  and  bore 
away  more  east,  to  a  low  place  in  the  [Wet]  mountains. 
About  sunset  we  came  to  the  edge  of  a  prairie  which 
bounded  the  foot  of  the  [Wet]  mountains.  As  there  was 
no  wood  or  water  where  wc  were,  and  the  woods  from  the 
skirts  of  the  [Sangre  de  Cristo]  mountains  appeared  to  be 
at  no  great  distance,  I  thought  proper  to  march  for  it ;  in 
the  middle  of  said  prairie  crossed  the  creek  [recrosscd 
Grape  creek  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.],  which  now  bore  east. 
Here  we  all  got  our  feet  wet.  The  night  commenced  ex- 
tremely cold,  when  we  halted  at  the  woods  at  eight  o'clock, 
for  encampment.  After  getting  fires  made,  we  discovered 
that  the  feet  of  nine  of  our  men  were  frozen  ;  and,  to  add  to 
this  misfortune,  both  of  those  whom  we  called  hunters 
were  among  the  number.  This  night  we  had  no  provision. 
Reaumer's  [Reaumur's]  thermometer  stood  at  i8}^°  below 
zero.     Distance  28  miles." 

**  This  is  the  most  difficult  itinerary  of  the  whole  trip,  and  much  depends  upon 
its  correct  recovery.  It  is  out  of  the  question  to  take  "  28  miles  "  at  its  face  value  ; 
the  difficulty  must  be  adjusted.  Pike's  trail  shows  with  substantial  accuracy 
his  three  camps  of  the  14th,  15th,  and  i6th,  along  Grape  cr. ;  then  a  long  loop 
S.  E.  and  back  S.  W.  to  a  point  on  Grape  cr.  again,  above  two  creeks  coming 
down  from  the  Sangre  range.  I  think  these  creeks  can  be  identified  ;  this 
would  fi.K  to-day's  camp  with  sufficient  precision.  I  base  my  conclusions  on 
Pike's  whole  set  of  mileages  for  this  trip,  as  applied  to  the  topography  of  the 
route.  Thus  we  have,  going  up  Grape  cr.,  i3-}-ig-|-l8  =  5o  m. ;  with  4  more 
miles  on  the  17th,  making  54  to  the  point  where  this  creek  is  left.  Further  on 
come(28 — 4=)24--{-o-{-o-{-o-\-o-\-S-\-S-\-g-\-o-\-o-\-i^—63  m.,  which  puts  Pike 
over  the  Sand  Hill  Pass  on  the  27th.  Finally,  we  have  i5-|-l7+24+'^=74 
m.,  in  the  San  Luis  valley  to  the  stockade  on  the  Rio  Conejos  ;  total,  191  m. 
The  three  sections  of  this  route — the  Grape  Creek  course,  the  Wet  Mountain 
Valley  course,  the  San  Luis  Valley  course — are  practically,  therefore,  in  the  ratio 
of  5  :  6  ;  7  ;  and  such  figures  must  be  made  to  fit  the  known  geography  of  the 
route.  I  make  the  journey  of  the  17th  as  follows;  Pike  proceeds  up  Grape 
cr.  a  short  distance,  leaves  it,  flanks  Round  mt.,  and  passes  by  or  near  the 
present  site  of  Silver  Cliff,  seat  of  Custer  Co.;  continues  S.  E.  across  the  valley 
or  prairie  to  the  base  of  the  Wet  mts.,  in  the  vicinity,  not  immediate,  of  Mt. 
Robinson,  Mt.  Brinlcy,  and  Rosita,  where  the  mines  of  the  latter  name  were  or 
are  ;  where,  not  liking  the  place,  as  there  was  no  fuel,  he  turns  about  S.  W.  and 


STARVING.  485 

Su7iday,  Jan.  iSth.  We  started  two  of  the  men  least  in- 
jured ;  the  doctor  and  myself,  who  fortunately  were  un- 
touched by  the  frost,  also  went  out  to  hunt  something  to 
preserve  existence.  Near  evening  we  wounded  a  buffalo 
with  three  balls,  but  had  the  mortification  to  see  him  run  off 
notwithstanding.  We  concluded  it  was  useless  to  go  home 
to  add  to  the  general  gloom,  and  went  amongst  some  rocks, 
where  we  encamped  and  .sat  up  all  night ;  from  the  intense 
cold  it  was  impossible  to  sleep.     Hungry  and  without  cover. 

Jan.  igth.  We  again  took  the  field,  and  after  crawling 
about  one  mile  in  the  snow,  got  to  shoot  eight  times  among 
a  gang  of  buffalo  ;  we  could  plainly  perceive  two  or  three  to 
be  badly  wounded,  but  by  accident  they  took  the  wind  of  us, 
and  to  our  great  mortification  all  were  able  to  run  off.  By 
this  time  I  had  become  extremely  weak  and  faint,  it  being 
the  fourth  day  since  we  had  received  sustenance,  all  of  which 
we  were  marching  hard,  and  the  last  night  had  scarcely 
closed  our  eyes  to  sleep.  We  were  inclining  our  course  to  a 
point  of  woods,  determined  to  remain  absent  and  die  by  our- 
selves rather  than  return  to  our  camp  and  behold  the  misery 
of  our  poor  lads,  when  we  discovered  a  gang  of  buffalo  com- 
ing along  at  some  distance.  With  great  exertions  I  made 
out  to  run  and  place  myself  behind  some  cedars.  By  the 
greatest  of  good  luck,  the  first  shot  stopped  one,  which  we 
killed  in  three  more  shots ;  and  by  the  dusk  had  cut  each  of 

repasses  the  valley  at  a  right  angle  to  his  other  course  through  it,  recrosses  Grape 
cr.  a  little  below  the  confluence  of  Rosita  cr.,  and  camps  under  the  Sangre  de 
Cristo  range,  somewhere  about  Spring  cr.  or  Horse  cr.  This  day  was  disastrous, 
as  a  culmination  of  misery  already  endured  by  the  handful  of  half-naked  and 
more  than  half-star\-ed  adventurers,  for  whom  still  more  acute  suffering  was  in 
store.  The  wonder  is  not  at  any  error  in  distances,  but  that  any  intelligible 
itinerary  of  such  a  journey  has  reached  us  from  the  splendidly  brave  young 
fellow,  who  so  rashly  led  his  companions  into  a  death-trap.  But  for  the  buffalo 
which  were  wintering  in  the  Wet  Mountain  valley,  not  a  man  would  have 
escaped  with  his  life.  Whatever  the  exact  spot,  this  is  the  place  where  poor 
Sparks  and  Dougherty  were  abandoned  with  frozen  feet.  What  they  endured 
may  be  imagined  from  the  mute  messages  Pike  afterward  received  from  them — 
a  present  of  some  of  the  bones  which  came  away  from  their  gangrenous  feet 
after  sphacelus  had  set  in. 


486  SPARKS   AND   DOUGHERTY   ABANDONED. 

US  a  heavy  load,  with  which  we  determined  immediately  to 
proceed  to  the  camp,  in  order  to  relieve  the  anxiety  of  our 
men  and  carry  the  poor  fellows  some  food. 

We  arrived  there  about  twelve  o'clock,  and  when  I  threw 
my  load  down,  it  was  with  difficulty  I  prevented  myself  from 
falling ;  I  was  attacked  with  a  giddiness  of  the  head,  which 
lasted  for  some  minutes.  On  the  countenances  of  the  men 
was  not  a  frown,  nor  a  desponding  eye  ;  all  seemed  happy 
to  hail  their  officer  and  companions,  yet  not  a  mouthful 
had  they  eaten  for  four  days.  On  demanding  what  were 
their  thoughts,  the  sergeant  replied  that  on  the  morrow  the 
most  robust  had  determined  to  set  out  in  search  of  us  and 
not  return  unless  they  found  us,  or  killed  something  to  pre- 
serve the  lives  of  their  starving  companions. 

Jan.  20tli.  The  doctor  and  all  the  men  able  to  march  ; 
returned  to  the  buffalo  to  bring  in  the  balance  of  the  meat. 
On  examining  the  feet  of  those  who  were  frozen  we  found  it 
impossible  for  two  of  them  [Sparks  and  Dougherty]  to  pro- 
ceed, and  two  others  only  without  loads,  by  the  help  of  a 
stick.  One  of  the  former  was  my  waiter,  a  promising 
young  lad  of  twenty,  whose  feet  were  so  badly  frozen  as 
to  present  every  probability  of  losing  them.  The  doctor 
and  party  returned  toward  evening,  loaded  with  the  buffalo 
meat. 

Jan.  2ist.  This  day  we  separated  the  four  loads  which  we 
intended  to  leave,  and  took  them  some  distance  from  camp, 
where  we  secured  them.  I  went  up  to  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain to  see  what  prospect  there  was  of  being  able  to  cross  it, 
but  had  not  more  than  fairly  arrived  at  its  base  when  I 
found  the  snow  four  or  five  feet  deep ;  this  obliged  me  to 
determine  to  proceed  and  cotoycr  the  mountain  [keep  along- 
side the  base  of  the  Sangrc  de  Cristo  range]  to  the  south, 
where  it  appeared  lower,  until  we  found  a  place  where  we 
could  cross. 

Jan.  22d.  I  furnished  the  two  poor  lads  who  were  to  re- 
main with  ammunition,  made  use  of  every  argument  in  my 
power  to  encourage  them  to  have  fortitude  to  resist  their 


THE    WHOLE    PARTY    SNOW-I^OUND.  487 

fate,  and  gave  them  assurance  of  my  sending  relief  as  soon 
as  possible.     We  parted,  but  not  without  tears. 

We  pursued  our  march,  taking  merely  sufficient  provisions 
for  one  meal,  in  order  to  leave  as  much  as  possible  for  the 
two  poor  fellows  who  remained.  They  were  John  Sparks 
and  Thomas  Dougherty.  We  went  on  eight  miles  and 
encamped  on  a  little  creek,"'  which  came  down  from  the 
mountains.  At  three  o'clock  went  out  to  hunt,  but  killed 
nothing.     Little  snow. 

Jan.  2jd.  After  showing  the  sergeant  a  point  to 
steer  for,  the  doctor  and  myself  proceeded  on  ahead  in 
hopes  to  kill  something,  as  we  were  again  without  victuals. 
About  one  o'clock  it  commenced  snowing  very  hard ;  we 
retreated  to  a  small  copse  of  pine,  where  we  constructed 
a  camp  to  shelter  us ;  and,  as  it  was  time  the  party  should 
arrive,  we  sallied  forth  to  search  for  them.  We  separated, 
and  had  not  marched  more  than  one  or  two  miles,  when 
I  found  it  impossible  to  keep  any  course  without  the  com- 
pass continually  in  my  hand,  and  then  was  not  able  to  see 
more  than  10  yards.  I  began  to  perceive  the  difficulty  even 
of  finding  the  way  back  to  our  camp ;  and  I  can  scarcely 
conceive  a  more  dreadful  idea  than  remaining  on  the  wild, 
where  inevitable  death  must  have  ensued.  It  was  with 
great  pleasure  I  again  reached  the  camp,  where  I  found  the 
doctor  had  arrived  before  me.  We  lay  down  and  strove  to 
dissipate  the  ideas  of  hunger  and  misery  by  thoughts  of  our 
far  distant  homes  and  relatives.     Distance  eight  miles."" 

Jan.  24.tli.  We  sallied  out  in  the  morning,  and  shortly 
after  perceived  our  little  band  marching  through  the  snow 
about  two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  silent  and  with  downcast 

'^  By  Pike's  map,  this  should  be  the  next  to  the  l.ist  creelc  before  Grape  cr.  is 
headed — the  first  one  above  Horse  cr.  If  so,  the  party  are  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  place  now  called  Bhinienau. 

"  About  to  the  ultimate  forks  of  Grape  cr.  The  S.  end  of  the  Wet  Mountain 
valley  is  a  sort  of  pocket  where  the  Wet  mts.  connect  with  the  Sangre  range 
by  intermediate  elevations  (as  Promontory  Bluffs,  etc.).  Creeks  come  into 
the  valley  from  the  E.,  S.,  and  W.,  converging  to  compose  Grape  cr.,  the  ulti- 
mate tributary  of  which  is  now  known  as  Cottonwood  cr.     The  border  of  this 


488        JOHN  brown's  view  of  the  situation. 

countenances.  We  joined  them  and  learned  that,  finding 
the  snow  to  fall  so  thickly  that  it  was  impossible  to  proceed, 
they  had  encamped  about  one  o'clock  the  preceding  day. 
As  I  found  all  the  buffalo  had  quit  the  plains,  I  determined 
to  attempt  the  traverse  of  the  mountain,  in  which  we  per- 
severed until  the  snow  became  so  deep  that  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  proceed  ;  when  I  again  turned  my  face  to  the  plain, 
and  for  the  first  time  in  the  voyage  found  myself 
discouraged. 

This  was  also  the  first  time  I  heard  a  man  express  him- 
self in  a  seditious  manner ;  he  [John  Brown]  exclaimed 
that  "it  was  more  than  human  nature  could  bear,  to  march 
three  days  without  sustenance,  through  snows  three  feet 
deep,  and  carry  burdens  only  fit  for  horses,"  etc.  As  I  knew 
very  well  the  fidelity  and  attachment  of  the  majority  of  the 
men,  and  even  of  this  poor  fellow  (only  he  could  not  endure 
fasting),  and  that  it  was  in  my  power  to  chastise  him  when 
I  thought  proper,  I  passed  it  unnoticed  for  the  moment, 
determined  to  notice  it  at  a  more  auspicious  time. 

We  dragged  our  weary  and  emaciated  limbs  along  until 
about  ten  o'clock.  The  doctor  and  myself,  v.'ho  were  in 
advance,  discovered  some  buffalo  on  the  plain,  when  we  left 
our  loads  on  the  snow,  and  gave  orders  to  proceed  to  the 
nearest  woods  to  encamp.  We  went  in  pursuit  of  the  buf- 
falo, which  were  on  the  move.  The  doctor,  who  was  then 
less  reduced  than  myself,  ran  and  got  behind  a  hill  and  shot 
one  down,  which  stopped  the  remainder.  We  crawled  up 
to  the  dead  one  and  shot  from  him  as  many  as  12  or  14 
times  among  the  gang,  when  they  removed  out  of  sight. 
We  then  proceeded  to  butcher  the  one  we  had  shot ;  and 
after  procuring  each  of  us  a  load  of  the  meat,  we  marched 
for  the  camp,  the  smoke  of  which  was  in  view.     We  arrived 

pocket,  on  the  .S.,  is  the  boundary  between  Custer  and  Huerfano  cos. — an 
irregular  line  continuint;  on  the  W.  along  the  main  ridge  of  the  Sangre  range, 
and  on  the  E.  along  that  ridge  of  the  Wet  mts.  which  divides  sources  of 
Hardscrabble  cr.  and  .St.  Charles  .and  Greenhorn  rivers  from  those  of  the 
Huerfano. 


pike's  review  of  the  situation.  489 

at  the  camp,  to  the  great  joy  of  our  brave  lads,  who  imme- 
diately feasted  sumptuously. 

After  our  repast  I  sent  for  the  lad  who  had  presumed  to 
speak  discontentedly  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  addressed 
him  to  the  following  effect :  "  Brown,  you  this  day  pre- 
sumed to  make  use  of  language  which  was  seditious  and 
mutinous.  I  then  passed  it  over,  pitying  your  situation, 
and  attributing  it  to  your  distress  rather  than  your  inclina- 
tion to  sow  discontent  among  the  party.  Had  I  reserved 
provisions  for  ourselves,  while  you  were  starving ;  had  we 
been  marching  along  light  and  at  our  ease,  while  you  were 
weighed  down  with  your  burden  ;  then  you  would  have  had 
some  pretext  for  your  observations.  But  when  we  were 
equally  hungry,  weary,  emaciated,  and  charged  with  burdens 
which  I  believe  my  natural  strength  is  less  able  to  bear  than 
any  man's  in  the  party ;  when  we  were  always  foremost  in 
breaking  the  road,  in  reconnoitering,  and  in  the  fatigues  of 
the  chase,  it  was  the  height  of  ingratitude  in  you  to  let  an 
expression  escape  which  was  indicative  of  discontent.  Your 
ready  compliance  and  firm  perseverance  I  had  reason  to 
expect,  as  the  leader  of  men  and  my  companions  in  miseries 
and  dangers.  But  your  duty  as  a  soldier  called  on  your 
obedience  to  your  officer,  and  a  prohibition  of  such  lan- 
guage, which  for  this  time  I  will  pardon  ;  but  assure  you, 
should  it  ever  be  repeated,  by  instant  death  will  I  avenge 
your  ingratitude  and  punish  your  disobedience.  I  take  this 
opportunity  likewise  to  assure  you,  soldiers  generally,  of  my 
thanks  for  the  obedience,  perseverance,  and  ready  contempt 
of  every  danger  which  you  have  generally  evinced.  I 
assure  you  nothing  shall  be  wanting,  on  my  part,  to  procure 
you  the  rewards  of  our  government  and  the  gratitude  of 
your  countrymen."  They  all  appeared  very  much  affected, 
and  retired  with  assurances  of  perseverance  in  duty,  etc. 
Distance  nine  miles. 

"  Taking  the  party  over  the  low  divide  mentioned  in  the  last  note,  from 
Custer  into  Huerfano  Co.,  and  from  the  Grajie  Creek  watershed  to  that  of  the 
Huerfano.     The  exact  spot  is  perhaps  not  determinable,  but  it  was  not  far  from 


490  SAFE   THROUGH   THE   BLOOn   OF  CHRIST. 

Sunday,  Jan.  25th.  I  determined  never  again  to  march 
with  so  little  provision  on  hand ;  as,  had  the  storm  con- 
tinued one  day  longer,  the  animals  would  have  continued 
in  the  mountains;  we  should  have  become  so  weak  as 
not  to  be  able  to  hunt,  and  of  course  have  perished.  The 
doctor  went  out  with  the  boys,  and  they  secured  three  of 
the  buffalo  ;  we  commenced  bringing  in  the  meat,  at  which 
we  continued  all  day. 

Jan.  26th.  Got  in  all  the  meat  and  dried  it  on  a  scaffold, 
intending  to  take  as  much  as  possible  along  and  leave  one 
of  my  frozen  lads  with  the  balance,  as  a  deposit  for  the 
parties  who  might  return  for  their  baggage,  etc.,  on  their 
way  back  to  Baroney's  camp. 

Jan.  2jth.  We  marched,  determined  to  cross  the  [Sangre 
de  Cristo]  mountains,  leaving  Menaugh "  encamped  with 
our  deposit.  After  a  bad  day's  march  through  snows,  in 
some  places  three  feet  deep,  we  struck  on  a  brook  which  led 
west.  This  I  followed  down,  and  shortly  came  to  a  small 
stream  [Sand  creek],  running  west,  which  we  hailed  with 
fervency  as  the  waters  of  Red  river.  Saw  some  sign  of  elk. 
Distance  14  miles."" 

Jan.  28th.     Followed    down   the  ravine  and  discovered 

Bradford,  a  place  on  Muddy  cr..  one  of  the  first  two  forks  of  the  Huerfano. 
The  map  shows  that  Pike  has  headed  Grape  cr.  and  got  into  another  basin, 
from  which  he  starts  a  river  running  out  on  the  jirairie  to  the  Arkansaw.  This 
is  by  mistake  made  out  to  be  his  "  3d  Fork,"  i.  <".,  the  St.  Charles  and  Green- 
horn ;  it  is  really  his  "  2d  Fork,"  i.  e..  the  Huerfano. 

'*  n  we  call  the  roll  to-day  we  find  :  Vasquez  .and  Smith  left  at  Caiion  City 
on  the  14th  ;  Sparks  and  Dougherty  left  at  camp  of  the  22d  ;  Mcnaugh  left  tit 
camp  of  the  26th  ;  present  on  the  27th,  Pike,  Robinson,  Meek,  Jackson, 
Brown,  Carter,  Gorden,  Miller,  Mountjoy,  Roy,  Stoute  =11. 

"  The  Expedition  crosses  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  to  the  basin  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  and  is  about  to  enter  the  San  Luis  valley.  The  matter  of  the  pass  by 
which  they  came  h.as  been  much  mooted  and  left  in  doubt.  Thus  we  find 
Maguire  saying  in  the  preface  to  the  Denver  ed.  of  Pike,  p.  xi  :  "  Whether 
this  pass  was  the  Mosca  or  the  Medano  (known  also  as  '  Sandhill ')  or  whether 
it  was  one  still  farther  to  the  north  as  thought  by  some,  cannot  be  definitely 
established."  Governor  Adams  in  his  Address,  p.  17,  says  "  Medano  or 
Music  P.ass."  I  think  it  is  certain  that  the  Expedition  made  the  Sand  Hill 
Ptiss,  and  I  hope  to  be  able  to  settle  the  question.     The  three  passes  to  which 


PASSES   THROUGH   THESE   MOUNTAINS.  49I 

after  some  time  that  there  had  been  a  road  cut  out ;  on 
many  trees  were  various  hieroglyphics  painted.  After 
marching  some  miles,  we  discovered   through   the  lengthy 

Maguire  refers,  and  the  only  ones  to  be  considered  for  a  moment,  are  the  fol 
lowing,  in  order  from  N.  to  S. 

I.  A  pass  from  Antelope  cr.,  one  of  the  heads  of  Grape  cr.,  in  Custer  Co., 
over  to  a  tributary  of  San  Luis  r.  in  Saguache  Co.,  nut  traversing  any  portion 
of  Huerfano  Co.,  or  b.arely  touching  the  extreme  N.  W.  corner  of  this  county — 
in  fact,  Custer,  Huerfano,  and  Saguache  cos.  meet  in  this  pass,  and  Muddy  as 
well  as  Antelope  cr.  heads  there.  This  is  the  "  one  still  farther  to  the  north" 
to  which  Maguire  alludes.  It  is  the  one  marked  "  Music  Pass  "  on  the  G.  L.  O. 
?.nd  U.  S.  G.  S.  maps  of  1892  (but  not  the  Music  Pass  of  Hayden's  map). 
This  seems  to  me  so  far  N.  as  to  be  out  of  the  question,  if  any  reliance  is  to  be 
placed  on  either  Pike's  mileages  or  his  map.  Even  after  the  utmost  reduction 
of  his  distances  that  can  be  made  with  any  regard  to  the  topography  of  the 
region,  we  fetch  him  out  of  the  Grape  Creek  basin,  into  that  of  the  Huerfano, 
and  thus  well  along  in  Huerfano  Co.  His  map  bears  this  out  completely. 
Observe  that  on  the  24th  he  has  crossed  the  head  of  Grape  cr. ,  left  it  a  good 
way  behind  him,  and  marked  his  camp  near  the  head  of  the  other  stream — the 
Huerfano.  Notice  also  that  from  this  camp  of  the  24tli-26th  the  trail  makes 
a  sharp  elbow  west,  and  goes  through  the  Sangre  range  in  a  gap  next  behw  that 
one  in  which  he  makes  Grape  cr.  head.  Again,  if  he  had  made  this  northern- 
most pass  he  would  have  come  out  N.  of  the  Sand  Dunes,  and  had  these  on  his 
left  as  he  went  S.  in  the  San  Luis  valley  ;  whereas,  we  find  them  on  his  right  as 
he  comes  down  from  the  mountains  to  the  S.  of  them.  Finally,  the  mileages  of 
the  San  Luis  Valley  route  do  not  fit  so  well  from  this  pass  as  from  the  next  one. 
These  facts  seem  to  me  to  prove  that  Pike  made  no  pass  N.  of  the  sand-hills. 

2.  The  Sand  Hill  P.ass,  also  rightly  Medano  and  wrongly  Modenos  Pass,  called 
Music  Pass  by  Hayden,  .and  Williams'  Pass  by  Gunnison  and  Beckwith,  is  that 
which  connects  Navajo  or  Greaser  cr.  (br.  of  Muddy  cr.)  with  a  certain  tribu- 
tary (Medano  or  Sand  cr.)  of  the  San  Luis  r.  This  is  on  the  boundary  between 
Huerfano  and  Saguache  cos.,  about  5  m.  (air-line)  S.  of  Music  Pass.  The 
Huerfano  gathers  its  waters  in  the  valley  called  Huerfano  Park.  The  three 
principal  tributaries,  from  the  N.  to  N.  W.,  are  Turkey,  Wilson's,  and  Muddy 
creeks.  The  place  Bradford,  already  named  as  that  to  the  vicinity  of  which 
we  traced  the  Expedition,  without  reference  to  any  question  of  a  pass,  is  on 
Muddy  cr.,  and  a  road  goes  direct  from  this  place  through  this  pass.  That 
branch  of  Muddy  cr.  by  some  called  Navajo  cr.  drains  from  this  pass,  and 
Greaser  cr.  also  heads  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Across  the  divide,  which  sinks 
to  an  altitude  of  about  9,800  feet  at  the  pass,  Medano  or  Sand  cr.  drains  S.  W. 
and  then  S.  between  the  Sand  Dunes  and  the  mountains,  in  the  San  Luis  basin 
(Saguache  Co.).  That  Pike  took  this  route  I  have  no  question.  There  seems 
also  to  have  been  no  doubt  in  the  minds  of  Captain  Gunnison  and  Lieutenant 
Beckwith,  who  quote  Pike  on  their  approach  to  this  pass,  Aug.  25th,  1853,  and 
add:   "  The  course  of  Williams'  Pass  as  we  entered  it  [from  the  sand-hills]  is 


492  PASSES  THROUGH   THESE   MOUNTAINS. 

vista,  at  a  distance,  another  [the  San  Juan]  chain  of 
mountains ;  and  nearer  by,  at  the  foot  of  the  White 
mountains  which  we  were  then  descending,  sandy  hills  [the 

N.  58°  E.,  but  it  soon  bends  to  the  left  to  N.  27°  E.  We  passed  up  it  only 
about  three-fourths  of  a  mile.  Its  width  is  about  250  yards,  rising  gradually  as 
far  as  we  could  see.  Its  walls  of  rock  rise  on  either  side  to  a  height  of  some 
hundreds  of  feet,  and  are  nearly  vertical.  Our  guides  represent  it  as  continuing 
for  14  miles,  both  in  character  and  direction  as  here  described  ;  beyond  that  it 
is  more  abrupt,  terminating  at  its  summit  less  favorably  for  a  road  than 
Roubideau's  Pass.    It  is  followed  by  a  large  Indian  trail."    (P.  R.  R.  Rep.  II., 

1855.  P-  43-) 

3.  Mosca  or  Musca  Pass,  also  called  Fly  Pass  by  some,  translating  the 
Spanish,  and  by  others  Robideau's  Pass,  6  or  8  m.  in  an  air-line  S.  of  the  Sand 
Hill  Pass,  is  a  lower  and  better  one.  It  connects  the  Bear  Creek  branch  of 
May  cr.  (the  latter  a  tributary  to  the  Huerfano)  with  the  branch  of  Mosca  cr. 
on  the  other  side  of  the  divide.  There  is  a  place  called  Sliarpsdale  on  Bear  or 
May  cr.,  whence  a  road  goes  W.  up  to  the  pass,  and  others  N.  to  Bradford, 
E.  through  Poison  canon  to  Gardner  on  the  Huerfano  at  the  mouth  of  Muddy 
cr.,  and  also  E.  down  May  cr.  and  along  the  Huerfano  to  Point  of  Rocks  and 
Malachite,  and  so  on  to  Gardner.  On  the  subject  of  Mosca  Pass  Maguire's 
remarks  seem  to  me  judicious,  and  I  transcribe  them  to  express  my  concurrence 
in  his  decision  :  "  In  the  early  days  of  the  settlement  of  the  country  the  Mosca 
was  well  travelled  by  the  Southern  Utes  on  their  journeys  to  the  Plains,  and  their 
'  hieroglyphics,'  of  which  Pike  speaks,  were  to  be  seen  cut  in  the  bark  of  the 
aspen  trees  ;  but  from  the  fact  that  on  reaching  San  Luis  valley  on  January 
28th,  1807,  the  party  marched  some  considerable  distance  on  a  course  lying 
between  the  sand  dunes  and  the  mountains,  the  evidence  would  seem  to  warrant 
the  belief  that  the  pass  used  was  north  of  the  Mosca." 

There  are  other  passes  of  this  range,  as  the  one  called  Sangre  de  Cristo,  and 
the  Veta  Pass  (which  latter  is  now  utilized  by  the  D.  and  R.  G.  R.  R.).  But 
these  are  altogether  too  far  S.,  and  have  never  been  brought  in  question.  There 
seems  to  be  no  named  or  used  pass  from  the  head  of  the  Huerfano  itself.  The 
ultimate  heads  of  this  river  drain  N.  from  Cerro  Blanco  and  Baldy  Peak,  with 
collateral  sources  thence  along  the  line  between  Huerfano  and  Costello  cos. 
to  Grayback  and  Iron  mts.,  etc.,  besides  those  from  the  W.  on  the  line 
between  Huerfano  and  Saguache  cos.  in  the  direction  of  Mosca  Pass. 

In  view  of  the  above  considerations,  we  will  proceed  with  Pike  through  Me- 
dano  or  Sand  Hill  Pass  into  San  I.uis  valley  (or  Park).  This  is  a  plain  between 
the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  on  the  E.  and  N.  E.,  and  on  the  W.  and  N.  W. 
the  San  Juan  and  Sawatch  ranges.  It  has  a  total  length  of  about  no  m.  from 
Poncho  Pass  on  the  N.  to  Taos  valley  on  the  S.,  with  a  maximum  breadth  of 
about  45  m. ,  and  an  area  of  upward  uf  3,000  square  miles.  The  general  elevation 
is  between  7,500  and  8,000  feet.  The  Rio  Grande  enters  this  valley  at  about 
the  middle  of  its  W.  side,  running  E.  and  then  sweeping  in  a  long  curve  S. 


THE   SAND   DUNES— SAN   LUIS   VALLEY.  493 

Dunes].  We  marched  on  the  outlet  of  the  mountains,  left 
the  sandy  desert  to  our  right,  and  kept  down  between  it 
and  the  mountain.  When  we  encamped,  I  ascended  one  of 
the  largest  hills  of  sand,  and  with  my  glass  could  discover 
a  large  river  [the  Rio  Grande],  flowing  nearly  N.  by  W. 
and  S.  by  E.,  through  the  plain  [San  Luis  valley].  This 
river  came  out  of  the  third  chain  of  mountains,  about  N. 
75°  W.;  the  prairie  between  the  two  mountains  bore  nearly 
N.  and  S.  I  returned  to  camp  with  the  news  of  my  dis- 
covery. The  sand-hills  extended  up  and  down  the  foot  oi 
the  White  mountains  about  15  miles,  and  appeared  to  be 
about  five  miles  in  width.  Their  appearance  was  exactly 
that  of  the  sea  in  a  storm,  except  as  to  color,  not  the  least 
sign  of  vegetation  existing  thereon.     Distance  15  miles.'" 

/ail.  2()th.  Finding  the  distance  too  great  to  attempt 
crossing  immediately  to  the  river,  in  a  direct  line,  we 
marched  obliquely  to  a  copse  of  woods,  which  made  down 
a  considerable  distance  from  the  mountains.  Saw  sign  of 
horses.     Distance  17  miles." 

Jan.  joth.     We  marched  hard,  and  arrived  in  the  evening 

*  The  billows  of  sand  which  Pike  has  on  his  right  as  he  comes  down  Sand  cr. 
from  Sand  Hill  (Music,  Medano)  Pass  are  very  remarkable  formations,  which 
alone  would  fix  his  position  in  the  lack  of  any  other  data.  West  of  these  Dunes 
are  several  streams  of  the  San  Luis  system,  flowing  southward  to  form  sinks 
called  the  San  Luis  lakes,  though  Pike's  map  runs  them  into  the  Rio  Grande. 
His  camp  is  on  or  near  Sand  cr. ,  at  about  the  point  where  this  and  Mosca  cr. 
join,  or  perhaps  a  little  further  along.  Mosca  cr.  is  the  one  that  comes  down 
from  Mosca  Pass,  and  if  Pike  had  made  this  pass  he  would  have  fetched  out  in 
the  valley  at  about  the  same  spot — at  or  near  Montville. 

■"  About  S.,  along  the  W.  base  of  the  Sierra  Blanca,  which  is  simply  the  con- 
tinuation of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range.  Some  of  the  summits  Pike  has  on  his 
left  are  :  Grayback  Peak,  12,387  feet ;  Bald,  Baldy,  or  Old  Baldy  mt.,  14,125 
feet ;  and  Cerro  Blanco  itself,  14,431  feet,  giving  name  to  the  group.  Pike 
goes  from  the  vicinity  of  Montville  past  Zapato  cr. ,  probably  on  the  present 
road  through  the  town  of  the  latter  name  on  the  creek,  and  camps  in  the 
valley  at  the  place  where  timber  reaches  furthest  from  the  mountains.  A 
present  road  curves  S.  E.  from  this  point,  around  to  the  S.  of  the  range,  where 
was  built  Fort  Garland,  probably  12  or  15  m.  S.  E.  of  to-night's  camp.  This 
was  a  sort  of  focal  point  to  which  roads  converged  from  various  points,  and 
especially  was  it  on  the  most  direct  route  from  any  place  in  the  lower  part  of  the 


494  KL   RIO   GRANDE   DEL   NORTE. 

on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  then  supposed  to  be 
Red  river.     Distance  24  miles." 

Jan.  J  1st.  As  there  was  no  timber  here  we  determined 
on  descending  until  we  found  timber,  in  order  to  make 
transports  to  descend  the  river  with,  where  we  might 
establish  a  position  that  four  or  five  might  defend  against 
the  insolence,  cupidity,  and  barbarity  of  the  savages,  while 
the  others  returned  to  assist  the  poor  fellows  who  had  been 
left  behind  at  different  points.  We  descended  18  [13] 
miles,  when  we  met  a  large  west  branch  [Rio  Conejos], 
emptying  into  the  main  stream,  about  five  miles  up  which 
branch  we  took  our  station.  Killed  one  deer.  Distance  18 
miles." 

San  Luis  valley  through  Sangre  de  Cristo  Pass  to  the  Huerfano,  and  so  on. 
Garland  was  on  Ute  cr.,  a  branch  of  Trinchera  cr.,  which  latter  falls  into  the 
Rio  Grande  about  3  m.  above  the  Rio  Conejos. 

*'  Pike  reaches  the  Rio  Grande  on  a  S.  W.  course,  about  the  present  position 
of  the  town  of  Alamosa,  whence  railroads  now  radiate  in  or  converge  from  four 
directions.  These  branches  of  tlie  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  system  come  from 
the  E.  through  the  Veta  Pass,  from  the  N.  directly  down  the  San  Luis  valley, 
from  the  N.  W.  down  the  Rio  Grande,  and  from  the  S.  up  the  same 
river.  A  few  miles  S.  of  Alamosa,  Alamosa  and  La  Jara  creeks  fall  in  close 
together,  from  tlie  W.  These  are  both  indicated  by  a  single  unlettered  trace 
on  Pike's  map.  Next  below  Trinchera  cr.  falls  in  on  the  E.  This  is  the  one 
called  Rio  de  la  Culebra  on  Pike's  map,  which  correctly  brings  it  in  above  the 
one  from  the  W.  (.Rio  Conejos)  on  which  he  established  himself.  The  Rio 
Culebra  is  the  next  one,  from  the  E.,  below  Trinchera  and  Conejos,  and  above 
Rio  Costilla.  Pike  lays  down  the  Costilla  by  its  proper  name,  omits  the 
Culebra,  and  calls  the  Trinchera  by  the  name  of  the  latter.  In  English,  Rio 
Conejos  would  be  Rabbit  r. ;  Culebra,  Snake  r. ;  Costilla,  Rib  r. ;  and  Trinchera, 
Cut-bank  r.  Alamosa  should  imply  that  the  river  so  called  were  shaded 
with  elms,  though  Cottonwood  (Populus  anguslifolia)  is  the  actual  growth.  La 
Jara  is  properly  the  rock-rose  (Cislus  cretictis),  but  as  a  name  of  this  creek  it 
refers  to  willow-brush. 

■"  Of  which  about  13  (misprinted  "  i3")  was  down  the  Rio  Grande,  the  rest 
up  the  Rio  Conejos  ;  Trinchera  cr.  (the  one  from  the  E.,  which  Pike's  map 
letters  "  Rio  de  la  Culebra")  was  passed  a  short  distance  above  the  Conejos. 
The  latter  is  a  large  stream  from  tlie  W.  which  arises  in  the  San  Juan  range, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Conejos  Peak  (13,183  feet),  leaves  the  mountains  by  the  foot 
of  Prospect  Peak  (6,837  feet),  is  joined  in  the  San  Luis  hills  by  San  Antonio  cr. 
(its  principal  branch),  and  then  seeks  the  Rio  Grande  by  winding  about  the 
northern  ends  of  the  hills  just  named.     Tlie  data  already  given,  with  those 


IN   CAMP  ON  THE   RIO   CONEJOS.  495 

Sunday,  Feb.  ist.  Laid  out  the  place  for  our  works,  and 
went  out  hunting. 

Feb.  2d.  The  doctor  and  myself  went  out  to  hunt,  and 
with  great  difficulty,  by  night,  at  the  distance  of  seven  or 
eight  miles  from  camp,  killed  one  deer,  which  we  carried  in. 

Feb.  jd.     Spent  in  reading,  etc. 

Feb.  4.th.  Went  out  hunting,  but  could  not  kill  anything. 
One  of  my  men  killed  a  deer. 

Feb.  sth.     The   doctor   and   myself   went   out   to   hunt. 

details  which  the  text  presently  offers,  serve  to  fix  the  present  station  with  pre- 
cision— about  5  m.  up  the  Conejos,  on  its  N.  bank,  at  a  point  where  it  was  not 
fordable,  and  directly  S.  of  which  was  a  high  hill.  A  sufficiently  large  map, 
such  as  Sheet  X  of  the  Hayden  survey,  shows  exactly  these  topographical 
details,  and  also  marks  two  ranches  in  the  immediate  vicinity  :  see  also  Pike's 
own  map.  Under  these  circumstances  it  seems  to  me  wasted  ingenuity  to  find 
Pike's  blockhouse  in  some  other  place  ;  yet  its  locality  has  been  disputed. 
Maguire  puts  the  case  well :  "  The  exact  locality  of  the  site  (a  notable  spot  in 
Western  history)  is  in  dispute,  owing  to  the  discovery  many  years  ago  of  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  log  structure  further  W.  on  the  Conejos,  which  some 
suppose  to  have  been  Pike's  fortress  ;  but  everything  in  the  narrative,  as  well 
as  in  the  Spanish  records,  indicates  the  prairie  opposite  the  mineral  springs  and 
high  hill  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Conejos  as  the  spot  where  the  flag  of  the  United 
States  is  first  recorded  as  floating  above  the  soil  of  Colorado."  Gregg's  map 
locates  the  place  approximately,  with  the  legend  "D  Pike's  Stockade  Whence 
taken  to  Santa  Fe.     Feb.  1807  " 

Concerning  the  exact  location  of  Pike's  post  on  the  Conejos,  I  am  favored 
with  the  following  letter  (cited  in  substance)  from  Mr.  Maguire,  an  old  resident 
of  the  San  Luis  valley  : 

"Denver,  Colo.,  April tSth,  iSg4. 
"  My  Dear  Sir  : 

" .  .  .  As  to  the  disputed  stockade  on  the  Conejos  :  I  am  entirely  familiar 
with  that  country,  and  had  fixed  it  as  having  been  situated  in  the  prairie  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  stream  due  across  from  what  is  known  as  the  Ojo  Caliente. 
Before  writing  the  preface  to  the  Denver  reprint  of  Pike,  I  had  made  up  my 
mind  to  that,  although  it  was  contended  in  the  neighborhood  that  the  stockade 
had  been  situated  some  14  or  15  m.  from  the  mouth  of  the  stream.  This  supposi- 
tion was  due  to  the  fact  that  Lafayette  Head,  the  oldest  American  settler  on 
the  Conejos,  who  came  there  early  in  the  fifties,  was  lieutenant-governor  of  this 
state,  and  a  man  of  high  standing  and  much  authority,  had  asserted  that  tlie  fort 
had  been  built  much  further  up  the  stream  than  the  site  I  had  accepted.  In 
l8go  I  saw  Mr.  Head  upon  the  subject,  and  he  told  me  that  when  he  first  came 
to  the  country  there  still  existed  on  the  Conejos  the  remains  of  a  structure  of 
Cottonwood  logs  laid  horizontally,  which  he  had  seen,  and  which  was  so  old  that 


496  LOCATION   OF   THE   STOCKADE. 

After  chasing  some  deer  for  several  hours,  without  success, 
we  ascended  a  high  hill  which  lay  south  of  our  camp, 
whence  we  had  a  view  of  all  the  prairies  and  rivers  to  the 
north  of  us.  It  was  at  the  same  time  one  of  the  most  sub- 
lime and  beautiful  inland  prospects  ever  presented  to  the 
eyes  of  man.  The  prairie,  lying  nearly  north  and  south, 
was  probably  60  miles  by  45.  The  main  river,  bursting  out 
of  the  western  mountain,  and  meeting  from  the  northeast 
a  large  branch  [San  Luis  creek]  which  divides  the  chain  of 

the  logs  would  scarcely  bear  the  weight  of  one's  foot.  Upon  this  evidence,  with 
or  mthout  suggestion  from  some  source,  he  concluded  it  was  Pike's  fort,  and  so 
gave  out  ;  whence  the  prevalent  impression.  That  Mr.  Head  saw  this  structure 
there  is  no  question.  I  have  no  idea  what  it  was,  or  when  or  by  whom  built  ; 
but  it  would  be  useless  to  pursue  this  matter,  because  Mr.  Head  is  positive  that 
the  location  was  on  the  south  side,  and  therefore  the  structure  cannot  have  been 
Pike's.  The  Ojo  Caliente  above  mentioned  is  on  the  property  of  Mr.  A.  W. 
Mclntire,  as  is  also  the  prairie  opposite,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river.  Mr. 
Mclntire  is  a  Pike  enthusiast,  very  much  interested  in  the  case.  When  in 
Denver  recently  he  startled  me  by  stating  that  we  had  been  in  error  as  to  the 
exact  location,  as  he  had  become  convinced  it  was  about  half  a  mile  below  the 
Ojo  Caliente.  This  half-mile  bears  a  remarkable  relation  to  the  statement  in 
your  letter  to  me  :  '  I  have  it  probably  within  half  a  mile.'  Mr.  Mclntire  s.ays 
that  the  depression  caused  by  digging  the  moat  is  still  visible.  The  place  is  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Conejos,  opposite  some  warm  or  mineral  springs  flowing 
out  of  the  hill  on  the  south  side  ;  and  Mr.  Mclntire  informs  me  that  the  spot  is 
a  little  north  of  the  center  of  Sect.  7,  T.  35,  R.  11. 

"  Very  truly  yours, 

"  W.  M.  Maguire." 

Later  correspondence  on  this  subject  with  Mr.  Maguire  includes  a  letter  and 
sketches  from  Gov.  Mclntire,  who  is  satisfied  that  he  has  the  exact  site.  He 
marks  it  on  a  township  map  which  he  transmits,  as  on  the  middle  of  the  W. 
line  of  the  N.  W.  %  of  the  N.  E.  %  of  Sect.  7,  T.  35,  R.  11,  just  across  the 
Conejos,  under  a  hill  from  out  of  which  flows  a  mineral  or  thermal  spring  which 
never  freezes,  at  a  point  so  chosen  that  the  current  in  the  river  would  not  cut  the 
ditch  around  the  work.  Gov.  Mclntire's  sketch  represents  the  ditch  as  2yi-3 
feet  deep,  68  steps  long  (including  an  unbroken  place  of  13  steps),  and  of  semi- 
circular figure  ;  the  two  ends  of  this  figure  against  the  river,  in  a  small  deep 
bend,  so  that  the  river  and  the  ditch  inclose  an  oval  space  37  steps  in  the 
longest  diameter.  This  seems  large  for  such  a  temporary  work  as  Pike  started, 
but  he  tells  us  that  it  was  never  finished,  and  Gov.  Mclntire  is  persuaded  that 
the  ditch  is  not  a  natural  formation.  I  am  therefore  led  to  believe  that  he  has 
found  the  right  spot. 


A   FINE   VIEW   OF   THE   SAN   LUIS  VALLEY  497 

mountains,  proceeds  down  the  prairie,  making  many  large 
and  beautiful  islands,  one  of  which  I  judge  contains  100,000 
acres  of  land,  all  meadow  ground,  covered  with  innumerable 
herds  of  deer.  About  six  miles  from  the  mountains  [San 
Luis  hills]  which  cross  the  prairie  at  the  south  end,  a  branch 
[Alamosa  or  La  Jara  creek]  of  12  steps  wide  pays  its  tribute 
to  the  main  stream  from  the  west  course.  Due  W.  12". 
N.  75°.  W.  6°  [sic].  Four  miles  below  is  a  stream  [Trin- 
chera  creek]  of  the  same  size,  which  enters  on  the  east  and 
up  which  was  a  large  road  ;  its  general  course  is  N.  65"  E. 
From  the  entrance  of  this  was  about  three  miles,  down  to 
the  junction  of  the  west  fork  [Rio  Conejos],  which  waters 
the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  north,  while  the  main  river  wound 
along  its  meanders  on  the  east.  In  short,  this  view  com- 
bined the  sublime  and  the  beautiful.  The  great  and  lofty 
mountains,  covered  with  eternal  snows,  seemed  to  surround 
the  luxuriant  vale,  crowned  with  perennial  flowers,  like  a 
terrestrial  paradise  shut  out  from  the  view  of  man. 

Fcl?.  6t/i.  The  doctor,  having  some  pecuniary  demands 
in  the  province  of  New  Mexico,  conceived  this  to  be  the 
most  eligible  point  for  him  to  go  in,  and  return  previous  to 
all  my  party  having  joined  me  from  the  Arkansaw,  and  that 
I  was  prepared  to  descend  to  Nachitoches.  He  therefore 
this  day  made  his  preparations  for  marching  to-morrow. 
I  went  out  hunting,  and  killed  at  three  miles*  distance  a  deer 
which,  with  great  difficulty,  I  brought  in  whole.  We  con- 
tinued to  go  on  with  the  works  of  our  stockade  or  breast- 
work, which  was  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  west 
branch,  about  five  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  main 
river,  and  was  on  a  strong  plan. 

The  stockade  was  situated  in  a  small  prairie  on  the  west 
fork  [Conejos  river]  of  the  Rio  [Grande]  del  Norte.  The 
south  flank  joined  the  edge  of  the  river,  which  at  that  place 
was  not  fordable  ;  the  east  and  west  curtains  were  flanked 
by  bastions  in  the  northeast  and  northwest  angles,  which 
likewise  flanked  the  curtain  of  the  north  side  of  the  work. 
The  stockade  from  the  center  of  the  angle  of  the  bastions 


498  DESCRIPTION   OF  THE   STOCKADE. 

was  36  feet  square.  Heavy  cottonvvood  logs,  about  two 
feet  in  diameter,  were  laid  up  all  round  about  six  feet,  after 
which  lighter  ones,  until  we  made  it  12  feet  in  height ;  these 
logs  were  joined  together  by  a  lap  of  about  two  feet  at  each 
end.  We  then  dug  a  small  ditch  on  the  inside  all  round, 
making  it  perpendicular  on  the  internal  side  and  sloping 
next  the  work.  In  this  ditch  we  planted  small  stakes,  about 
six  inches  in  diameter,  sharpened  at  the  upper  end  to  a  nice 
point,  and  slanted  them  over  the  top  of  the  work,  giving 
them  about  2Y2  feet  projection.  We  then  secured  them 
above  and  below  in  that  position,  which  formed  a  small 
pointed  frise,  which  must  have  been  removed  before  the 
works  could  have  been  scaled.  Lastly,  we  had  dug  a  ditch 
round  the  whole,  four  feet  wide,  and  let  the  water  in  all 
round.  The  earth  taken  out,  being  thrown  against  the 
work,  formed  an  excellent  rampart  against  small-arms,  three 
or  four  feet  high.  Our  mode  of  getting  in  was  to  crawl 
over  the  ditch  on  a  plank,  and  into  a  small  hole  sunk  below 
the  level  of  the  work  near  the  river  for  that  purpose.  Our 
port-holes  were  pierced  about  eight  feet  from  the  ground, 
and  a  platform  was  prepared  to  shoot  from.  Thus  fortified, 
I  should  not  have  had  the  least  hesitation  of  putting  the 
100  Spanish  horse  at  defiance  until  the  first  or  second  night, 
and  then  to  have  made  our  escape  under  cover  of  the  dark- 
ness ;  or  made  a  sally  and  dispersed  them,  when  resting 
under  a  full  confidence  of  our  being  panic-struck  by  their 
numbers  and  force. 

Feb.  ytk.  The  doctor  marched  alone  for  Santa  Fe  ;  and 
as  it  was  uncertain  whether  this  gentleman  would  ever  join 
me  again,  I  at  that  time  committed  to  paper  the  following 
testimonial  of  respect  for  his  good  qualities,  which  I  do  not, 
at  this  time,  feel  any  disposition  to  efface.  He  has  had  the 
benefit  of  a  liberal  education,  without  having  spent  his  time, 
as  too  many  of  our  gentlemen  do  in  colleges,  in  skimming 
on  the  surfaces  of  sciences,  without  ever  endeavoring  to 
make  themselves  masters  of  the  solid  foundations.  Robin- 
son studied  and  reasoned  ;  with  these  qualifications  he  pos- 


ROBINSON   EN   ROUTE   TO   SANTA   FE.  499 

sessed  a  liberality  of  mind  too  great  ever  to  reject  an  hy- 
pothesis because  it  was  not  agreeable  to  the  dogmas  of  the 
schools ;  or  adopt  it  because  it  had  all  the  eclat  of  novelty. 
His  soul  could  conceive  great  actions,  and  his  hand  was 
ready  to  achieve  them ;  in  short,  it  may  truly  be  said  that 
nothing  was  above  his  genius,  nor  anything  so  minute  that 
he  conceived  it  entirely  unworthy  of  consideration.  As 
a  gentleman  and  companion  in  dangers,  difficulties,  and 
hardships,  I  in  particular,  and  the  expedition  generally,  owe 
much  to  his  exertions. 

The  demands  which  Dr.  Robinson  had  on  persons  in  New 
Mexico,  although  legitimate,  were  in  some  degree  spurious 
in  his  hands. '^*     The  circumstances  were  as  follows:  In  the 

''^  Tliat  our  friend  Robinson  was,  in  plain  English,  a  spy,  is  incontestible.  If 
he  had  any  other  oliject  in  joining  the  Expedition,  it  is  certain  that  he  had  no 
other  in  leaving  it  than  to  find  out  what  he  could  about  New  Spain  for  the 
benefit  of  his  own  country.  Had  it  been  in  actual  war  times  he  could  have  been 
hanged  or  shot  by  the  Spaniards  without  violation  of  the  customs  of  nations. 
As  it  was,  Pike  felt  so  apprehensive  for  Robinson's  personal  safety  that  when 
the  two  met  in  New  Mexico  Pike  at  first  affected  not  to  know  Robinson,  for 
fear  of  putting  him  in  jeopardy,  and  he  denied  point-blank  to  the  Spanish 
authorities  that  Robinson  was  one  of  the  party.  They  had  parted  on  the 
Conejos  with  a  perfect  understanding  on  such  points  ;  indeed,  General  Whiting 
calls  it  "  in  pursuance  of  a  previous  scheme  "  that  Robinson  set  out  alone  for 
Santa  Fe  ;  meanwhile.  Pike  sat  down  on  the  Conejos  to  wait  for  the  Spaniards 
to  come  and  catch  him.  The  ostensible  object  of  Robinson's  visit  to  Mexico 
was  fictitious  ;  Pike  says  himself  that  the  commercial  claim  Robinson  pre- 
tended to  have  was  worthless  "in  his  hands."  Whiting  observes  that  "it  was 
transferred  to  Dr.  Robinson,  who  was  to  make  it  a  pretext  for  a  visit  to  the 
place,  and  a  cover  for  observing  its  trade  and  resources,  for  the  benefit  of  his 
countrymen.  He  regarded  the  excursion  as  a  romantic  .adventure,  and  in  that 
mood  detached  himself  from  the  protection  of  his  friend  and  commanding 
officer."     (Life  of  Pike,  p.  272.) 

The  ultima  ratio  of  Pike's  presence  on  the  Rio  Grande  in  Spanish  territory 
will  prnlialily  always  remain  in  question,  unless  some  documentary  evidence,  not 
yet  forthcoming,  .should  turn  up  to  show  whether  he  came  there  by  .accident  or 
design.  Perhaps  the  safest  ground  to  take  would  be  to  suppose  it  the  particular 
accident  of  a  general  design.  His  open  and  official  instructions  required  him 
to  "  approximate  "  to  the  Spanish  possessions  ;  he  was  to  spy  out  all  the  land 
and  see  how  it  lay,  politically  as  well  as  geographically;  hunt  up  the  Comanches; 
and  make  a  counter-demonstration  to  Malgares'  spirited  raid,  involving  a 
reconnoissance  in  force  as  a  military  operation.     This  may  all  be  true  of  the 


500  CERTAIN   ETHICAL   CONSIDERATIONS. 

year  1804,  William  Morrison,  Esq.,  an  enterprising  merchant 
of  Kaskaskias,  sent  a  man  by  the  name  of  Babtiste  La 
Lande,  a  Creole  of  the  country,  up  the  Missouri  and  La 
Platte,  directing  him  if  possible  to  push  into  Santa  Fe.     He 

general  design  of  his  expedition,  but  it  may  as  easily  be  true  that  he  lost  his  way 
in  searching  for  the  Red  river,  and  only  found  his  way  to  the  Rio  Grande  by 
accident.  This  seems  to  be  the  view  of  liis  biographer.  General  Whiting,  who 
was  a  very  competent  critic  of  Pike's  military  career,  and  who  wrote  in  com- 
paratively short  historical  perspective,  though  he  does  not  seem  to  have  pos- 
sessed, or  at  any  rate  to  have  utilized,  any  private  sources  of  information. 
Whiting  fully  acquits  Pike  of  intentional  errancy,  and  gives  no  hint  that  he  is 
keeping  anything  back  that  would  support  any  other  view  of  the  case  than  that 
which  he  presents,  without  apparent  reserve  or  arriere-pensee.  Some  of  his 
expressions  may  be  here  cited.  Speaking  of  Pike's  seeing  a  Mexican  newspaper 
with  an  account  of  Burr's  conspiracy,  he  remarks,  p.  277  :  "This  afforded  a 
clew  to  the  suspicions  vnth  which  his  movements  on  the  Mexican  frontier  had 
most  naturally  been  regarded.  It  was  not  surprising  that  he  should  have  been 
looked  upon  as  forming  one  of  the  ramifications  of  the  revolutionary  scheme 
which  that  distinguislied  individual  had  projected.  .  .  It  was  true,  that  he  had 
been  found,  with  a  belligerent  aspect,  in  the  Mexican  country  ;  but  his  apology 
was  ready,  and,  no  doubt,  acceptable  ;  while  he  knew  that  the  Mexican  author- 
ities had  lately  violated,  in  a  similar  way,  the  soil  of  the  United  States,  for  which 
no  apology  could  be  rendered  .  .  .  His  misapprehensions  of  the  geography  of 
the  country,  which  led  him  to  establish  himself  in  such  a  suspicious  man- 
ner, on  a  foreign  river,  were  excusable,  bewildered  as  he  was  among  moun- 
tains and  streams  that  were  likely  to  confuse  all  calculations.  Still,  it  was 
natural  for  the  Mexican  authorities  to  regard  his  conduct,  at  first,  as  the  result 
of  a  design,  rather  than  a  mistake,  particularly  when  taken  in  connection  with 
Colonel  Burr's  contemporaneous  movements  ;  and  their  treatment  of  him  must 
be  considered  under  the  circumstances,  as  having  been  marked  by  much  con- 
sideration." General  Wilkinson  also  alludes  to  the  assertion  that  had  been 
made,  that  the  expedition  which  resulted  in  the  orders  he  had  given  Pike  "  was 
a  premeditated  cooperation  with  Burr."  The  Mexicans,  it  seems,  were  not  alone 
in  their  suspicions  and  expressions  to  that  effect. 

However  the  bottom  facts  of  Pike's  coming  on  the  Rio  Grande  may  turn  out 
to  be,  it  is  certain  that  after  he  had  been  captured  and  taken  to  Mexico  under 
the  diplomatic  disguise  of  a  polite  invitation  to  visit  the  governor,  who  had 
heard  of  his  having  lost  his  way,  hastened  to  send  to  his  rescue,  etc..  Pike 
turned  spy  and  informer  with  great  agility  and  signal  success.  He  kept  his 
temper  well  in  hand,  except  on  one  or  two  occasions  ;  and  in  several  instances 
showed  that  art  wliich  diplomacy  has  been  defined  to  be.  He  bore  himself  with 
courage,  dignity,  and  much  fertility  of  resources  ;  while  that  duplicity  and  pre- 
varication which  he  confesses  his  conscience  condoned,  if  it  did  not  justify,  were 
never  indulged  from  personal  considerations,  but   from  his  intense  patriotism. 


THIS   SUBJECT  CONTINUED.  50I 

sent  in  Indians,  and  the  Spaniards  came  out  with  horses 
and  carried  him  and  his  goods  into  the  province.  Finding 
that  he  sold  the  goods  high,  had  land  offered  him,  and  the 
women  kind,  he  concluded  to  expatriate  himself  and  con- 

His  love  of  his  country  was  the  crucible  in  which  he  assayed  his  own  motives  ; 
that  was  fervid  enough  to  relax  the  rigidity  of  morals  he  professed  and 
practiced  on  all  ordinary  occasions,  and  induce  a  ceitain  ethical  elasticity,  so 
to  speak,  if  not  actually  to  melt  all  scruples.  Tatriotism  must  sometimes 
shake  hands  with  Jesuitism  in  this  wicked  world  ;  and  the  majesty  of  the  fl.ig, 
like  the  glory  of  God,  must  be  maintained  by  human  means.  Abstract  ques- 
tions of  the  adaptation  of  means  to  ends  are  best  left  with  casuistry.  Pike's 
methods,  while  he  was  the  distinguished  guest  of  a  half-hostile  foreign  power, 
may  be  questioned  by  some,  but  his  motives  by  none  ;  and  as  for  his  ends,  we 
know  that  nothing  succeeds  like  success.  The  results  are  well  summed  by  his 
biographer,  p.  282,  in  words  which  I  will  cite  : 

"At  the  time  Captain  Pike  explored  those  regions  of  our  wide-spread  interior, 
almost  nothing  authentic  was  known  of  them.  More  satisfactory  information 
of  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  than  was  in  the  possession  of  the  public 
was  highly  desirable,  and  his  narratives  relating  to  them  were  read  with  interest. 
But  his  accounts  of  the  Mexican  territories  were  looked  for  with  much  more 
interest,  and  when  they  came  out  were  received  with  avidity.  The  je,ilous 
policy  of  Spain  had  surrounded  her  provinces  with  guards  and  restraints,  that 
rendered  them  almost  inaccessible.  Their  condition  and  prospects  were  veiled 
from  all  foreign  observation  ;  and  at  the  time  Captain  Pike  obtained,  through 
an  unintentional  aberration  from  his  prescribed  route,  access  to  them,  unusual 
attention  was  turned  upon  the  Mexican  country  by  the  events  of  Burr's  con- 
spiracy. This  extraordinary  transaction  had  awakened  an  intense  curiosity 
respecting  a  region  which  was  known  to  abound  with  gold,  and  which  precious 
met.al  was  supposed  to  have  been  its  ultimate  object.  The  trial  of  Colonel 
Burr  was  beginning,  or  in  progress,  when  Captain  Pike  returned,  and  was 
known  to  have  visited  the  El  Dorado,  on  which  this  individual  w.as  s,aid  to 
have  fixed  an  eye  of  cupidity  and  ambition.  Scarcely  anything  had  been  heard 
of  Mexico  since  the  conquest  of  Cortes,  excepting  vague  reports  of  the  un- 
bounded wealth  that  flowed  from  its  mines  into  the  public  and  private  coffers  of 
Spain.  It  is  not  strange,  then,  that  Captain  Pike's  tour  through  some  of  its 
provinces  should  have  been  regarded  as  a  rare  and  most  opportune  work.  His 
statements  were  of  course  founded  on  hasty  and  imperfect  observations,  it 
being  obvious  from  his  journal,  that,  from  the  time  he  left  Santa  Fe,  until  he 
reached  the  United  States,  he  was  under  a  surveillance,  and  could  only  take 
notes  by  stealth.  He  could  neither  survey  attentively  what  passed  beneath  his 
eye,  nor  inquire  about  that  which  he  did  not  see,  without  exciting  suspicion  and 
provoking  a  rebuke.  Still,  with  an  acute  eye,  and  a  retentive  memory,  he 
appears  to  have  gathered  up  many  new  and  interesting  facts,  that  were  well 
received  at  the  time." 


502  JACKSON'S  RELIEF  PARTY   DISPATCHED. 

vert  the  property  of  Morrison  to  his  own  benefit.  When 
I  was  about  to  sail,  Morrison,  conceiving  that  it  was 
possible  that  I  might  meet  some  Spanish  factors  on 
the  Red  river,  intrusted  me  with  the  claim,  in  order,  if 
they  were  acquainted  with  La  Lande,  I  might  negotiate 
the  thing  with  some  of  them.  When  on  the  frontiers, 
the  idea  suggested  itself  to  us  of  making  this  claim 
a  pretext  for  Robinson  to  visit  Santa  Fe.  We  therefore 
gave  it  the  proper  appearance,  and  he  marched  for  that 
place.  Our  views  were  to  gain  a  knowledge  of  the  country, 
the  prospect  of  trade,  force,  etc.;  while,  at  the  same  time, 
our  treaties  with  Spain  guaranteed  to  him,  as  a  citizen  of 
the  United  States,  the  right  of  seeking  the  recovery  of  all 
just  debts  or  demands  before  the  legal  and  authorized 
tribunals  of  the  country,  as  a  franchised  inhabitant  of  the 
same,  as  specified  in  the  22d  article  of  said  treaty. 

In  the  evening  I  dispatched  Corporal  Jackson  with  four 
men,  to  recross  the  mountains,  in  order  to  bring  in  the  bag- 
gage left  with  the  frozen  lads,  and  to  see  if  they  were  yet 
able  to  come  on.  This  detachment  left  me  with  four  men 
only,  two  of  whom  had  their  feet  frozen ;  they  were  em- 
ployed in  finishing  the  stockade,  and  myself  to  support 
them  by  the  chase. 

Sunday,  Feb.  Sth.  Refreshing  my  memory  as  to  the 
French  grammar,  and  overseeing  the  works. 

Feb.  gth.     Hunting,  etc. 

Feb.  loth.     Read  and  labored  at  our  works. 

Feb.  nth.     Hunting.     Killed  three  deer. 

Feb.  I2th.     Studying. 

Feb.  ijth.     Hunting.     Killed  two  deer. 

Feb.  14th.  Crossed  the  [Conejos]  river  and  examined  the 
numerous  springs  which  issued  from  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
opposite  our  camp.  These  were  so  strongly  impregnated 
with  mineral  qualities,  as  not  only  to  keep  clear  of  ice 
previous  to  their  joining  the  main  branch,  but  to  keep  open 
the  west  fork  until  its  junction  with  the  main  river  and  for 
a  few  miles  afterward,  while  all  the  other  branches  in  the 


SPANISH   SPIES  MEET  AMERICAN   FRIENDS.  503 

neighborhood    were   bound   in    the   adamantine   chains  of 
winter. 

Sunday,  Feb.  15th.     Reading,  etc.     Works  going  on. 

Feb.  i6th.  I  took  one  man  and  went  out  hunting  ;  about 
six  miles  from  the  post,  shot  and  wounded  a  deer. 

Immediately  afterward  I  discovered  two  horsemen  rising 
the  summit  of  a  hill,  about  half  a  mile  to  our  right.  As 
my  orders  were  to  avoid  giving  alarm  or  offense  to  the 
Spanish  government  of  New  Mexico,  I  endeavored  to  avoid 
them  at  first ;  but  when  we  attempted  to  retreat,  they  pur- 
sued us  at  full  charge,  flourishing  their  lances  ;  and  when 
we  advanced,  they  would  retire  as  fast  as  their  horses  could 
carry  them.  Seeing  this,  we  got  in  a  small  ravine,  in  hopes 
to  decoy  them  near  enough  to  oblige  them  to  come  to 
a  parley  ;  which  happened  agreeably  to  our  desires,  as  they 
came  on,  hunting  us  with  great  caution.  We  suffered  them 
to  get  within  40  yards — where  we  had  allured  them  ;  but 
they  were  about  running  off  again,  when  I  ordered  the 
soldier  to  lay  down  his  arms  and  walk  toward  them,  at  the 
same  time  standing  ready  with  my  rifle  to  kill  either  who 
should  lift  an  arm  in  an  hostile  manner.  I  then  hollowed 
to  them  that  we  were  "Americans,"  and  "  friends,"  which 
were  almost  the  only  two  words  I  knew  in  the  Spanish 
language  ;  when,  with  great  signs  of  fear,  they  came  up, 
and  proved  to  be  a  Spanish  dragoon  and  a  civilized  Indian, 
armed  after  their  manner,  of  which  we  see  a  description  in 
the  Essai  Militaire."  We  were  jealous  of  our  arms  on  both 
sides,  and  acted  with  great  precaution. 

They  informed  me  that  this  was  the  fourth  day  since  they 
had  left  Santa  Fe ;  that  Robinson  had  arrived  there,  and 
been  received   with  great  kindness  by  the  governor.     As 

"  It  is  uncertain  to  what  work  we  are  here  referred.  There  may  be  some 
old  miUtary  treatise,  well  known  in  Pike's  time,  to  which  he  thus  alludes  ;  but 
I  think  it  most  likely  that  he  means  his  own  Observations  on  New  Spain,  which 
formed  a  part  of  the  App.  to  Pt.  3  of  the  orig.  cd.  of  this  work,  and  which 
included  a  considerable  account  of  the  military  establishment  of  that  country. 
If  so,  the  "  Essai  Militaire  "  in  question  will  be  found  beyond. 


504       AARON  BURR  IN  THE  BACKGROUND. 

I  knew  them  to  be  spies,  I  thought  proper  to  inform  them 
merely  that  I  was  about  to  descend  the  river  to  Nachito- 
ches.  We  sat  on  the  ground  a  long  time,  till,  finding  they 
were  determined  not  to  leave  us,  we  rose  and  bade  them 
adieu.  But  they  demanded  where  our  camp  was;  and, 
finding  they  were  not  about  to  leave  us,  I  thought  it  most 
proper  to  take  them-  with  me,  thinking  we  were  on  Red 
river,  and  of  course  in  the  territory  claimed  by  the  United 
States." 

We  took  the  road  to  my  fort,  and  as  they  were  on  horse- 
back, they  traveled  rather  faster  than  myself ;  they  were 
halted  by  the  sentinel,  and  immediately  retreated  much 
surprised.  When  I  came  up,  I  took  them  in,  and  then 
explained  to  them,  as  well  as  possible,  my  intention  of 
descending  the  river  to  Nachitoches ;  but  at  the  same  time 
told  them  that  if  Governor  Allencaster  would  send  out  an 
ofificer  with  an  interpreter  who  spoke  French  or  English, 
I  would  do  myself  the  pleasure  to  give  his  Excellency  every 
reasonable  satisfaction  as  to  my  intentions  in  coming  on 
his  frontiers.     They  informed  me  that  on  the  second  day 

46  jjy  editorial  function  becomes  extremely  distasteful,  with  Pilie's  reiterated 
insistence  upon  affecting  to  believe  himself  upon  the  Red  r.,  and  expecting  us 
to  believe  him.  See  note  '",  and  imagine  Dr.  Robinson  st.irting  off  alone  to 
walk  from  the  Red  r.  into  Santa  Fe  !  I  have  blinked  the  business  thus  far,  but 
I  cannot  keep  my  eyes  shut  to  the  end  of  this  chapter,  as  there  is  worse  to  come 
in  the  miserable  straits  to  which  Captain  Pike  reduces  himself  through  his 
awkwardness  and  inexperience  in  telling  lies.  He  bluffs  the  thing  through,  to 
be  sure  ;  but  at  the  present  juncture  he  catches  himself  in  the  meshes  of  his 
own  falsification.  For,  supposing  he  had  really  been  on  the  Red  r.,  as  he 
declared  he  believed  ;  he  had  crossed  that  river,  and  gone  5  m.  up  a  stream  on 
the  other  side  of  it  ;  so  he  was  absolutely  in  Spanish  territory,  and  this  he  must 
have  known  perfectly  well.  On  the  22d  he  sa)'s,  p.  507,  that  he  "  beg.in  to 
think  it  was  time  we  received  a  visit  from  the  Spaniards  or  their  emissaries," 
which  shows  that  he  was  expecting  to  be  caught.  When  they  come,  he  makes 
a  show  of  resistance  by  blustering  a  little,  then  hauls  down  his  fl.ag  and  goes 
with  them  peaceably  enough — probably  not  only  a  willing  captive,  but  one  who 
had  all  along  intended  and  desired  to  be  taken  into  the  enemy's  country  for 
purposes  of  his  own.  And  back  of  this  sorry  scene  there  looms  the  sinister 
shadow  of  General  James  Wilkinson,  the  traitor  and  conspirator  with  Aaron 
r.urr — let  the  curtain  fall. 


MUTE   MESSENGERS   FROM   FROZEN   FEET.  505 

they  would  be  in  Santa  Fe,  but  were  careful  never  to  sug- 
gest an  idea  of  my  being  on  the  Rio  del  Norte.  As  they 
concluded,  I  did  not  think  as  I  spoke.  They  were  very 
anxious  to  ascertain  our  numbers,  etc.;  seeing  only  five 
men  here,  they  could  not  believe  we  came  without  horses. 
To  this  I  did  not  think  proper  to  give  them  any  satis- 
faction, giving  them  to  understand  we  were  in  many 
parties,  etc. 

Feb.  ijth.  In  the  morning,  our  two  Spanish  visitors 
departed,  after  I  had  made  them  some  trifling  presents, 
with  which  they  seemed  highly  delighted.  After  their 
departure,  we  commenced  working  at  our  little  stockade,  as 
I  thought  it  probable  the  governor  might  dispute  my  right 
to  descend  the  Red  river,  and  send  out  Indians,  or  some 
light  party,  to  attack  us ;  I  therefore  determined  to  be  as 
much  prepared  to  receive  them  as  possible. 

This  evening  the  corporal  and  three  of  the  [four]  men 
arrived,  who  had  been  sent  back  to  the  camp  of  the  frozen 
lads.  They  informed  me  that  two  men  would  arrive  the  next 
day,  one  of  whom  was  Menaugh,  who  had  been  left  alone  on 
the  27th  of  January  [and  the  other  of  whom  was  the  fourth 
one  of  the  soldiers  who  had  gone  as  a  relief-party  under 
Corporal  Jackson] ;  but  that  the  other  two,  Dougherty  and 
Sparks,  were  unable  to  come  in.  They  said  that  they 
[Dougherty  and  Sparks]  had  hailed  them  [the  relief-party] 
with  tears  of  joy,  and  were  in  despair  when  they  again  left 
them,  with  the  chance  of  never  seeing  them  more.  They 
sent  on  to  me  some  of  the  bones  taken  out  of  their  feet, 
and  conjured  me,  by  all  that  was  sacred,  not  to  leave  them 
to  perish  far  from  the  civilized  world.  Ah  !  little  did  they 
know  my  heart,  if  they  could  suspect  me  of  conduct  so 
ungenerous.  No  1  before  they  should  be  left,  I  would  for 
months  have  carried  the  end  of  a  litter,  in  order  to  secure 
them  the  happiness  of  once  more  seeing  their  native  homes, 
and  being  received  in  the  bosom  of  a  grateful  country. 
Thus  those  poor  lads  are  to  be  invalids  for  life,  made  infirm 
at  the  commencement  of  manhood  and  in  the  prime  of  their 


5o6  MEEK  AND    MILLER   TO   THE    RESCUE. 

course,  doomed  to  pass  the  remainder  of  their  days  in 
misery  and  want.  For  what  is  the  pension  ?  Not  sufficient 
to  buy  a  man  his  victuals.  What  man  would  even  lose  the 
smallest  of  his  joints  for  such  a  trifling  pittance? 

Feb.  i8th.  The  other  two  boys  [Menaugh  and  the  fourth 
member  of  the  relief-party]  arrived.  In  the  evening  I 
ordered  the  sergeant  [Meek]  and  one  man  [Miller]  to  pre- 
pare to  march  to-morrow  for  the  [stockade  on  the]  Arkan- 
saw,  where  we  had  left  our  interpreter  [Vasquez,  with 
Patrick  Smith],  horses,  etc.,  to  conduct  them  on,  and  on  his 
return  to  bring  the  two  lads  [Dougherty  and  Sparks]  who 
were  still  in  the  mountains. 

Feb.  igth.  Sergeant  William  E.  Meek  marched  with  one 
man,  whose  name  was  Theodore  Miller,  and  I  took  three 
other  men  to  accompany  him  some  distance,  in  order  to 
point  out  to  him  a  pass^'  in  the  mountain  which  I  conceived 
more  eligible  for  horses  than  the  one  by  which  wc  came. 
I  must  here  remark  the  effect  of  habit,  discipline,  and 
example,  in  two  soldiers  soliciting  a  command  of  more  than 
1 80  miles,  over  two  great  ridges  of  mountains  covered  with 
snow,  inhabited  by  bands  of  unknown  savages,  in  the  interest 
of  a  nation  with  which  we  were  not  on  the  best  understand- 
ing. To  perform  this  journey,  each  had  about  ten  pounds 
of  venison.  Only  let  me  ask.  What  would  our  soldiers 
generally  think,  on  being  ordered  on  such  a  tour,  thus 
equipped?  Yet  those  men  volunteered  it  with  others,  and 
were  chosen  ;  for  which  they  thought  themselves  highly 
honored.  We  accompanied  them  about  six  miles,  and 
pointed  out  the  pass  alluded  to,  in  a  particular  manner. 
But  the  corporal  afterward  reported  that  the  new  one  which 
I  obliged  him  to  take  was  impassable,  he  having  been  three 
days  in  snows  nearly  middle  deep. 

We  then  separated  and,  having  killed  a  deer,  sent  one  of 

*■■  Doubtless  the  more  eligible  Mosca  Pass  instead  of  the  Sand  Hill  Tass  :  see 
note  ",  p.  492.  A  clause  in  Pike's  next  sentence  is  so  singularly  constructed 
as  to  leave  the  sense  obscure  ;  he  simply  means  to  call  attention  to  the  fact  that 
Meek  and  Miller  had  asked  him  to  order  them  on  that  trip. 


TIME   FOR  THE   ENEMY  TO  ARRIVE.  507 

the  men  back  to  the  fort  with  it.  With  the  other  two, 
I  kept  on  my  e.xploring  trip  down  the  river  on  the  east  side, 
at  some  leagues  from  its  banks,  intending  to  return  up  it. 
At  nine  o'clock  at  night  we  encamped  on  a  small  creek" 
which  emptied  into  the  river  from  a  nearly  due  east  course. 

Feb.  20th.  We  marched  down  the  river  for  a  few  hours ; 
but,  seeing  no  fresh  sign  of  persons,  or  any  other  object  to 
attract  our  attention,  took  up  our  route  for  the  fort.  Dis- 
covered the  sign  of  horses  and  men  on  the  shore.  We 
arrived  after  night  and  found  all  well. 

Feb.  2ist.  As  I  was  suspicious  that  possibly  some  party 
of  Indians  might  be  harboring  round,  I  gave  particular 
orders  to  my  men,  if  they  discovered  any  people,  to  en- 
deavor to  retreat  undiscovered  ;  but  if  not,  never  to  run, 
and  not  to  suffer  themselves  to  be  disarmed  or  taken 
prisoners,  but  conduct  whatever  party  discovered  them,  if 
they  could  not  escape,  to  the  fort. 

Sunday,  Feb.  22d.  As  I  began  to  think  it  was  time  we 
received  a  visit  from  the  Spaniards  or  their  emissaries,  I 
established  a  lookout  guard  on  the  top  of  a  hill  all  day,  and 
at  night  a  sentinel  in  a  bastion  on  the  land  side.  Studying, 
reading,  and  working  at  our  ditch  to  bring  the  river  round 
the  works. 

Feb.  2jd.  Reading,  writing,  etc.;  the  men  at  their  usual 
work. 

Feb.  2ph.  Took  one  man  with  me  and  went  out  on  the 
Spanish  road  hunting ;  killed  one  deer  and  wounded  several 
others.  As  we  were  a  great  distance  from  the  fort,  we 
encamped  near  the  road  all  night.  Saw  several  signs  of 
horses. 

Feb.  2§th.  Killed  two  more  deer,  when  we  marched  for 
our  post.  Took  all  three  of  the  deer  with  us,  and  arrived 
about  nine  o'clock  at  night,  as  much  fatigued  as  ever  I  was 
in  my  life.  Our  arrival  dissipated  the  an.xiety  of  the  men, 
who  began  to  be  apprehensive  we  were  taken  or  killed  by 
some  of  the  savages. 

*^  Kio  Culebra  of  present  maps — next  bcluw  Trinchera  er. 


508  THE   ENEMY   ARRIVE   ON   TIME. 

Feb.  26th.  In  the  morning  was  apprized  of  the  approach 
of  strangers  by  the  report  of  a  gun  from  my  lookout  guard. 
Immediately  afterward  two  Frenchmen  arrived.  My  senti- 
nel halted  them,  and  ordered  them  to  be  admitted,  after 
some  questions.  They  informed  me  that  his  Excellency, 
Governor  [Joachin  R.]  Allencaster,  had  heard  it  was  the 
intention  of  the  Utah  Indians  to  attack  me;  had  detached 
an  officer  with  50  dragoons  to  come  out  and  protect  me ; 
and  that  they  would  be  here  in  two  days.  To  this  I  made 
no  reply  :  but  shortly  after  the  party  came  in  sight,  to  the 
number,  as  I  afterward  learned,  of  50  dragoons  and  50 
mounted  militia  of  the  province,  armed  in  the  same  manner 
with  lances,  escopates,"  and  pistols.  My  sentinel  halted 
them  at  the  distance  of  about  50  yards.  I  had  the  works 
manned.  I  thought  it  most  proper  to  send  out  the  two 
Frenchmen  to  inform  the  commanding  officer  that  it  was 
my  request  he  should  leave  his  party  in  the  small  copse  of 
woods  where  he  was  halted,  and  that  I  would  meet  him 
myself  in  the  prairie  in  which  our  work  was  situated.  This 
I  did,  with  my  sword  on  me  only.  I  was  then  introduced 
to  Don  Ignatio  Saltelo  and  Don  Bartholemew  Fernandez, 
two  lieutenants,  the  former  the  commandant  of  the  party. 
I  gave  them  an  invitation  to  enter  the  works,  but  requested 
the  troops  might  remain  where  they  were.  This  was  com- 
plied with.  When  they  came  round  and  discovered  that  to 
enter  they  were  obliged  to  crawl  on  their  bellies  over  a 
small  draw-bridge,  they  appeared  astonished,  but  entered 
without  further  hesitation. 

We  first  breakfasted  on  deer,  meal,  goose,  and  some  bis- 
cuit which  the  civilized  Indian  who  came  out  as  a  spy  had 
brought  me.  After  breakfast  the  commanding  officer 
addressed  me  as  follows  : 

"  Sir,  the  governor  of  New  Mexico,  being  informed  you 
had  missed  your  route,  ordered  me  to  offer  you,  in  his 
name,  mules,  horses,  money,  or  whatever  you  might  stand  in 

*'  Escopets  or  escopettes  ;  the  carbine  or  short  rifle  used  by  Spanish- 
Americans. 


OVERWHELMING  OVERTURES.  509 

need  of  to  conduct  you  to  the  head  of  Red  river;  as  from 
Santa  Fe  to  where  it  is  sometimes  navigable  is  eight  days' 
journey,  and  we  have  guides  and  the  routes  of  the  traders 
to  conduct  us." 

"  What,"  said  I,  interrupting  him,  "  is  not  this  the  Red 
river?  " 

"  No,  Sir  !     The  Rio  del  Norte." 

I  immediately  ordered  my  flag  to  be  taken  down  and 
rolled  up,  feeling  how  sensibly  I  had  committed  myself  in 
entering  their  territory,  and  conscious  that  they  must  have 
positive  orders  to  take  me  in. 

He  now  added  that  he  "had  provided  100  mules  and 
horses  to  take  in  my  party  and  baggage,  and  how  anxious 
his  Excellency  was  to  see  me  at  Santa  Fe."  I  stated  to 
him  the  absence  of  my  sergeant  [Meek,  with  Miller],  the 
situation  of  the  balance  of  the  party  [Vasquez  and  Smith 
in  the  stockade  on  the  Arkansaw ;  Dougherty  and  Sparks 
in  the  mountains  with  frozen  feet],  and  that  my  orders 
would  not  justify  my  entering  into  the  Spanish  territory. 
He  urged  still  further,  until  I  began  to  feel  myself  a  little 
heated  in  the  argument ;  and  told  him,  in  a  peremptory 
style,  that  I  would  not  go  until  the  arrival  of  my  sergeant 
with  the  balance  of  the  party.  He  replied,  "  that  there  was 
not  the  least  restraint  to  be  used  ;  that  it  was  only  neces- 
sary his  Excellency  should  receive  an  explanation  of  my 
business  on  his  frontier  ;  that  I  could  go  now,  or  on  the 
arrival  of  my  party ;  that,  if  none  went  in  at  present,  he 
should  be  obliged  to  send  in  for  provisions  ;  but  that,  if  I 
would  now  march,  he  would  leave  an  Indian  interpreter  and 
an  escort  of  dragoons  to  conduct  the  sergeant  [Meek,  and 
the  five  other  absentees — Miller  of  the  relief-party,  Vasquez, 
Smith,  Sparks,  Dougherty]  into  Santa  Fe."  His  mildness 
induced  me  to  tell  him  that  I  would  march,  but  must  leave 
two  men  [Jackson  and  Carter]  to  meet  the  sergeant  and 
party,  to  instruct  him  as  to  coming  in,  as  he  never  would 
come  without  a  fight,  if  not  ordered. 

I  was  induced  to  consent  to  this  measure  by  the  convic- 


5IO  UNCONDITIONAL   SURRENDER. 

tion  that  the  officer  had  positive  orders  to  bring  me  in  ; 
and  as  I  had  no  orders  to  commit  hostihties,  and  indeed 
had  committed  myself,  although  innocently,  by  violating 
their  territory,  I  conceived  it  would  appear  better  to  show 
a  will  to  come  to  an  explanation  than  to  be  in  any  way  con- 
strained ;  yet  my  situation  was  so  eligible,  and  I  could  so 
easily  have  put  them  at  defiance,  that  it  was  with  great 
reluctance  I  suffered  all  our  labor  to  be  lost  without  once 
trying  the  efficacy  of  it.  My  compliance  seemed  to  spread 
general  joy  through  their  party,  as  soon  as  it  was  com- 
municated ;  but  it  appeared  to  be  different  with  my  men, 
who  wished  to  have  "a  little  dust,"  as  they  e.xpressed  them- 
selves, and  were  likewise  fearful  of  treachery. 

My  determination  being  once  taken,  I  gave  permission 
for  the  Spanish  lieutenant's  men  to  come  to  the  outside  of 
the  works,  and  some  of  mine  to  go  out  and  see  them.  The 
hospitality  and  goodness  of  the  Creoles  and  Metifs  began 
to  manifest  itself  by  their  producing  their  provision  and 
giving  it  to  my  men,  covering  them  with  their  blankets,  etc. 

After  writing  orders  to  my  sergeant  [Meek],  and  leaving 
them  with  my  corporal  [Jackson]  and  one  private  [not 
named  (Carter)],  who  were  to  remain,  we ''"  sallied  forth, 
mounted  our  horses,  and  went  up  the  river  about  12 
miles,  to  a  place  where  the  Spanish  ofificers  had  made 
a  camp  deposit,  whence  we  sent  down  mules  for  our 
baggage,  etc. 

Washington  City,  January,  1808. 

'"  The  roll-call  now  is  : 

1.  Interpreter  Vasquez  and  Private  Smith  on  the  Arkansaw.     (2.) 

2.  Privates  Dougherty  and  Sparks  in  the  mountains,  with  frozen  feet.     (2.) 

3.  Sergeant  Meek  and  Private  Miller  gone  to  the  relief  of  the  foregoing.     (2.) 

4.  Corporal  Jackson  and  one  man  (Private  Carter)  left  on  the  Rio  Conejos  tu 
await  the  coming  of  the  foregoing  si.^:.     (2.) 

5.  Dr.  Robinson  gone  ahead  to  Santa  Fe.     (i.) 

6.  Pike  therefore  sallies  forth  under  escort  of  the  Spanish  dragoons  with  the 
following  :  Privates  Brown,  Gorden,  Meuaugh,  Mountjoy,  Roy,  Stoute.     (7.) 

Total  l6,  present  or  accounted  for. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

pike's   dissertation   on   LOUISIANA.' 

JpROM  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  south  bank 
Jl  the  land  is  low  until  you  arrive  at  Belle  Fontaine,  four 
miles  from  its  entrance.  In  this  distance  are  several  strata 
of  soil,  one  rising  above  the  other.  As  the  river  is  cutting 
off  the  north  point,  and  making  land  on  the  south,  this  is 
well  timbered  with  oak,  walnut,  ash,  etc. 

From  Belle  Fontaine  to  St.  Charles  the  north  side  of  the 
Missouri  is  low,  bounded  on  its  banks  by  timbered  land 
extending  from  half  a  mile  to  one  mile  from  the  river.  Six 
miles  below  St.  Charles,  on  the  south  side,  in  front  of  a 
village  called  Florissant,  is  a  coal  hill,  or,  as  it  is  termed  by 
the  French,  La  Charbonniere.  This  is  one  solid  stone  hill, 
which  probably  affords  sufficient  fuel  for  all  the  population 
of  Louisiana.  St.  Charles  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Missouri,  where  the  hill  first  joins  the  river,  and  is  laid 
out  parallel  to  the  stream. 

The  main  street  is  on  the  first  bank,  the  second  on  the 
top  of  the  hill.     On  this  street  is  situated  a  round  wooden 

'  Chapter  IV  consists  of  an  article  which  came  first  in  the  App.  to  Pt.  2 
of  the  ong.  ed.,  pp.  1-18.  This  had  no  numljer  among  the  various  pieces  of 
which  that  Appendix  was  made  up  ;  but  as  it  came  first,  and  the  next  piece  was 
No.  2,  the  lack  of  numeration  was  a  mere  inadvertence,  and  it  is  to  be  taken 
pro  foi-md  as  No.  i.  It  was  lengthily  entitled  :  "A  Dissertation  On  the  Soil, 
Rivers,  Productions,  Animal  and  Vegetable,  with  General  Notes  on  the  Internal 
Parts  of  Louisiana,  compiled  from  observations  made  by  Capt.  Z.  M.  Pike,  in  a 
late  tour  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  to  the  Head  Waters  of  the  Arkansaw 
and  Rio  del  Norte,  in  the  years  1S06  and  1807  ;  including  Observations  on  the 
Aborigines  of  the  Country."  Such  notes  as  I  should  otherwise  have  to  offer  on 
the  substance  of  this  Dissertation  are  for  the  most  part  already  made  in  the 
foregoing  three  chapters  of  the  Itinerary.  The  present  chapter  may  therefore 
be  passed  without  remark,  excepting  in  so  far  as  concerns  some  new  points 
that  come  up  for  notice. 

5" 


512  THE   MISSOURI   TO  THE   OSAGE. 

tower,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Spaniards  as  a  fort  or 
guard-house,  now  converted  into  a  prison.  From  this 
tower  you  have  an  extensive  view  of  the  river  below.  St. 
Charles  consists  of  about  8o  houses,  principally  occupied  by 
Indian  traders  or  their  engagees.  It  is  the  seat  of  justice  for 
the  district  of  St.  Charles. 

From  St.  Charles  to  the  village  of  La  Charrette,  the  west 
side  is  generally  low,  but  with  hills  running  parallel  at  a 
great  distance  back  from  the  river ;  the  south  side  is  more 
hilly,  with  springs.  Scattering  settlements  are  on  both 
sides. 

La  Charrette  is  the  last  settlement  we  saw  on  the  Mis- 
souri, although  there  is  one  above,  at  a  saline  on  the  west 
side.  From  La  Charrette  to  the  Gasconade  river,  you 
find  on  the  north  low  land  heavily  timbered  ;  on  the  south, 
hills,  rivulets,  and  a  small  number  of  small  creeks,  with  very 
high  cane.  The  Gasconade  is  200  yards  wide  at  its  en- 
trance ;  it  is  navigable  at  certain  seasons  100  miles.  At  the 
time  we  were  at  it,  it  was  backed  by  the  Mississippi,'  but 
was  clear  and  transparent  above  their  confluence.  On  the 
side  opposite  their  confluence  commences  the  line  between 
the  Sac  Indians  and  the  United  States.  [See  p.  339,  and 
note  '*,  p.  II.] 

From  the  Gasconade  to  the  entrance  of  the  Osage  river, 
the  south  side  of  the  river  is  hilly  but  well  timbered.  On 
the  north  are  low  bottoms  and  heavy  timber.  In  this  space 
of  the  Missouri,  from  its  [the  Gasconade's]  entrance  to 
the  Osage  river,  we  find  it  well  timbered,  rich  in  soil,  and 
very  proper  for  the  cultivation  of  all  the  productions  of  our 
Middle  and  Western  States.  It  is  timbered  generally  with 
Cottonwood,  ash,  oak,  pecan,  hickory,  and  some  elm  ;  but 
the  Cottonwood  predominates  on  all  the  made  bottoms. 
From  the  entrance  of  the  Osage  river  to  the  Gravel  river, 
a  distance  of  118  miles,  the  banks  of  the  Osage  are  covered 

'  Read  Missouri — "  Mississippi "  being  the  slip  of  a  pen  which  had  so  often 
written  the  latter  word.  The  clause  means  that  muddy  backwater  from  the 
Missouri  ran  some  way  into  the  Gasconade. 


THE   MAIN   OSAGE   RIVER.  513 

with  timber  and  possess  a  very  rich  soil.  Small  hills,  with 
rocks,  alternately  border  the  eastern  and  western  shores ; 
the  bottoms  being  very  excellent  soil,  and  the  country 
abounding  in  game.  From  thence  to  the  Yungar,  the  river 
continues  the  same  in  appearance ;  the  shoals  and  islands 
being  designated  on  the  chart.  The  Yungar,  or  Ne-hem-gar, 
as  termed  by  the  Indians,  derives  its  name  from  the  vast 
number  of  springs  at  its  source ;  it  is  supposed  to  be  nearly 
as  extensive  as  the  Osage  river,  navigable  for  canoes  100 
miles,  and  is  celebrated  for  the  abundance  of  bear  which  are 
found  on  its  branches.  On  it  hunt  the  Chasseurs  du  Bois 
of  Louisiana,  Osage,  and  Creeks  or  Muskogees,  a  wandering 
party  of  whom  have  established  themselves  in  Louisiana ; 
and  between  whom  and  the  French  hunters  frequent  skir- 
mishes have  passed  on  the  head  of  the  Yungar. 

A  few  miles  above  this  river  the  Osage  river  becomes 
narrower,  and  evidently  shows  the  loss  experienced  by  the 
deficiency  of  [gain  not  as  yet  acquired  from]  the  waters  of 
the  Yungar.  On  the  east  shore  is  a  pond  of  water,  about 
20  paces  from  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  half  a  mile  in  cir- 
cumference ;  it  was  elevated  at  least  20  feet  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  river.  This  appeared  the  more  singular,  as  the 
soil  appeared  to  be  sandy,  whence  it  would  be  concluded 
that  the  waters  of  the  pond  would  speedily  discharge 
through  the  soil  into  the  river ;  but  there  appeared  to  be 
no  reason  for  any  such  deduction. 

Thence  to  a  few  miles  below  the  Park  (see  chart  [and 
diary  of  Aug.  14th]),  the  banks  of  the  river  continue  as 
usual.  We  now,  for  the  first  time,  were  entertained  with 
the  sight  of  prairie  land  ;  but  it  still  was  interspersed  with 
clumps  of  woodland,  which  diversified  the  prospect. 

In  this  district  the  cliffs,  which  generally  bordered  one  of 
the  sides  of  the  river,  were  covered  with  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  cedars  I  ever  saw.  Thence  to  the  Grand 
Forks  [confluence  of  Little  with  main  Osage],  the  banks  of 
the  river  continue  the  same ;  but  thence  up  to  the  Osage 
town,  there  is  a  larger  proportion  of  prairie.     At  the  place 


514  LITTLE   OSAGE   AND   NEOSHO   RIVERS. 

where  Mr.  Chouteau  formerly  had  his  trading-establishment, 
the  east  bank  of  the  river  is  an  entire  bed  of  stone-coal ; 
whence  by  land  by  the  villages  is  but  nine  miles,  but  by 
water  at  least  50.  The  country  round  the  Osage  villages  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  the  eye  ever  beheld.  The  three 
branches  of  the  river,  viz.:  the  large  east  fork  [Sac  river], 
the  middle  one  [Little  Osage],  up  which  we  ascended,  and 
the  northern  one  [main  Osage],  all  winding  round  and  past 
the  villages,  giving  the  advantages  of  wood  and  water,  and 
at  the  same  time  the  extensive  prairies  crowned  with  rich 
and  luxuriant  grass  and  flowers,  gently  diversified  by  the 
rising  swells  and  sloping  lawns,  present  to  the  warm  imagi- 
nation the  future  seats  of  husbandry,  the  numerous  herds  of 
domestic  animals,  which  are  no  doubt  destined  to  crown 
with  joy  those  happy  plains.  The  best  comment  I  can 
make  on  the  navigation  of  the  Osage  river  is  a  reference  to 
my  chart  and  journal  on  that  subject.  From  the  last  village 
on  the  Missouri  to  the  prairies  on  the  Osage  river  we  found 
plenty  of  deer,  bear,  and  some  turkeys.  Thence  to  the 
towns  there  are  some  elk  and  deer,  but  near  the  villages 
they  become  scarce. 

From  the  Osage  towns  to  the  source  of  the  [Little]  Osage 
river  there  is  no  difference  in  the  appearance  of  the  country, 
except  that  on  the  south  and  east  the  view  on  the  prairies 
becomes  unbounded,  and  is  only  limited  by  the  imbecility 
of  our  sight.  The  waters  of  the  White  [Neosho]  river  and 
the  [Little]  Osage  are  divided  merely  by  a  small  ridge  in 
the  prairie,  and  the  dry  branches  appear  to  interlock  at  their 
head.  From  thence  to  the  main  branch  of  the  said  [Neosho] 
river  the  country  appeared  high,  with  gravelly  ridges  of 
prairie  land.  On  the  main  White  river  is  large  timber  and 
fine  ground  for  cultivation.  Hence  a  doubt  arises  as  to  the 
disemboguing  of  this  stream.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  from 
some  authority,  has  drawn  the  conclusion  that  it  discharges 
itself  into  the  Arkansaw  a  short  distance  below  the  Ver- 
milion river ;  but  from  the  voyages  of  Captain  Maney 
[Many]  on  White  river,  the  information  of  hunters,  Indians, 


NEOSHO,   VERMILION,   AND   SMOKY   HILL   RIVERS.      515 

etc.,  I  am  rather  induced  to  believe  it  to  be  the  White  river  of 
the  Mississippi,  as  at  their  mouths  there  is  not  so  great  a  dif- 
ference between  their  magnitude  ;  and  all  persons  agree  in 
ascertaining  [asserting]  that  the  White  river  heads  between 
the  Osage,  Arkansaw,  and  Kansas  rivers,  which  would  still 
leave  the  Arkansaw  near  800  miles  more  lengthy  than  the 
White  river.  From  the  proofs,  I  am  perfectly  confident  in 
asserting  that  this  was  the  White  river  of  the  Mississippi 
which  we  crossed.'  At  the  place  where  we  traversed  it,  the 
stream  was  amply  navigable  for  canoes,  even  at  this  dry 
season  (August)  of  the  year. 

Up  this  river  to  the  dividing  ridges  between  it  and  the 
Verdigrise  river,  the  bottom  is  of  some  magnitude  and 
importance  ;  but  the  latter  river  is  bounded  here  in  a  narrow 
bed  of  prairie  hills,  affording  not  more  than  sufificient  timber 
for  firewood  for  a  limited  number  of  inhabitants  for  a  few 
years.  From  the  Verdigrise  our  course  again  lay  over 
gravelly  hills  and  a  prairie  country,  but  well  watered  by  the 
branches  of  the  Verdigrise  and  White  (alias  Grand)  rivers. 
From  this  point  to  the  source  of  White  river  there  is  very 
little  timber,  the  grass  short,  prairies  high  and  dry.  From 
the  head  of  White  river  over  the  dividing  ridge  between 
that  and  the  eastern  [Smoky  Hill]  branch  of  the  Kans 
river,  the  ridge  is  high,  dry,  and  has  many  appearances  of 
iron  ore,  and  on  the  west  side  are  some  spaw  springs  [spas]. 
Here  the  country  is  very  deficient  of  water.  From  the  east 
branch    of   the  Kans  river  (by  our   route)   to   the   Pawnee 

'  The  river  which  the  Expedition  crossed  was  of  course  the  Neosho,  which 
Wilkinson  was  correct  in  stating  to  fall  into  the  Arkansaw  a  short  distance 
below  the  Vermilion  or  Verdigris — "a  quarter  of  a  mile,"  his  Report  says. 
Pike's  wrong  conclusion  is  not  here  animadverted  upon,  as  it  has  been  set  right 
before  ;  but  I  wish  to  note  that  the  "  White  river  of  the  Mississippi "  has  given 
rise  to  much  confusion,  from  the  very  simple  circumstance  that  it  is  a  branch 
both  of  the  Mississippi  and  of  the  Arkansaw.  It  runs  into  the  very  crotch 
between  these  two,  and  has  a  sort  of  a  delta  of  its  own,  as  well  as  a  double 
debouchment.  Various  maps  consulted  on  this  point,  as  I  have  never  been  on 
the  spot,  differ  in  that  some  run  White  r.  into  the  Arkansaw,  some  into  the 
Mississippi,  and  some  into  both  these  rivers.  The  latter  seems  to  be  the 
present  arrangement  ;  but  this  may  have  repeatedly  altered  in  former  times. 


5l6  REPUBLICAN   FORK   TO   THE   ARKANSAW. 

Republic  on  the  Republican  fork  (see  chart),  the  prairies 
are  low,  with  high  grass;  the  country  abounds  with  salines, 
and  the  earth  appears  to  be  impregnated  with  nitrous  and 
common  salts.  The  immediate  border  of  the  Republican 
fork  near  the  village  is  high  ridges,  but  this  is  an  exception 
to  the  general  face  of  the  country.  All  the  country  between 
the  forks  of  the  Kans  river,  a  distance  of  i6o  miles,  may  be 
called  prairie,  notwithstanding  the  borders  of  woodland 
which  ornament  the  banks  of  those  streams,  but  are  no 
more  than  a  line  traced  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  when  compared 
to  the  immense  tract  of  meadow  country. 

For  some  distance  from  the  Osage  villages  you  only  find 
deer,  then  elk,  then  cabrie,  and  finally  buffalo.  But  it  is 
worthy  of  remark  that  although  the  male  buffaloes  were  in 
great  abundance,  yet  in  all  our  route  from  the  Osage  to  the 
Pawnees  we  never  saw  one  female.  I  acknowledge  myself 
at  a  loss  to  determine  whether  this  is  to  be  attributed  to 
the  decided  preference  the  savages  give  to  the  meat  of  the 
females,  so  that  consequently  they  are  almost  exterminated 
in  the  hunting-grounds  of  the  nations,  or  to  some  physical 
causes;  for  I  afterward  discovered  the  females  with  young 
in  such  immense  herds  as  gave  me  no  reason  to  believe  they 
yielded  to  the  males  in  numbers. 

From  the  Pawnee  town  on  the  Kansas  river  to  the  Arkan- 
saw,  the  country  may  almost  be  termed  mountainous;  but 
want  of  timber  gives  the  hills  less  claim  to  the  appella- 
tion of  mountains.  They  are  watered  and  created,  as  it 
were,  by  the  various  branches  of  the  Kans  river.  One  of 
those  branches,  a  stream  of  considerable  magnitude  (say  20 
yards),  which  I  have  designated  on  the  chart  by  the  name 
of  Saline,  was  so  salt,  where  we  crossed  it  on  our  route  to 
the  Arkansaw,  that  it  salted  sufficiently  the  soup  of  the 
meat  which  my  men  boiled  in  it.  We  were  here  very 
eligibly  situated ;  had  a  fresh  spring,  issuing  from  a  bank 
near  us  ;  plenty  of  the  necessaries  of  life  all  around,  viz.; 
buffalo ;  a  beautiful  little  sugar-loaf  hill,  for  a  lookout  post ; 
fine  grass  for  our  horses  ;  and  a  saline  in  front  of  us. 


THE  ARKANSAW   RIVER.  517 

As  you  approach  the  Arkansaw  on  this  route  within  15  or 
20  miles,  the  country  appears  to  be  low  and  swampy  ;  or 
the  land  is  covered  with  ponds  extending  out  from  the  river 
some  distance.  The  river  at  the  place  where  I  struck  it  is 
nearly  500  yards  wide,  from  bank  to  bank,  those  banks  not 
more  than  four  feet  high,  thinly  covered  with  cottonwood. 
The  north  side  is  a  swampy  low  prairie  [Cheyenne  Bottoms], 
and  the  south  a  sandy  sterile  desert.  Thence,  about  half- 
way to  the  mountains,  the  country  continued  with  low 
prairie  hills,  and  scarcely  any  streams  putting  into  the  river; 
and  on  the  bottom  are  many  bare  spots  on  which,  when  the 
sun  is  in  the  meridian,  is  congealed  a  species  of  salt  suffi- 
ciently thick  to  be  accumulated,  but  so  strongly  impregnated 
with  nitric  qualities  as  to  render  it  unfit  for  use  until  puri- 
fied. The  grass  in  this  district,  on  the  river  bottoms,  has 
a  great  appearance  of  the  grass  on  our  salt  marshes.  From 
the  first  south  fork  ([Purgatory  river]  see  chart)  the  borders 
of  the  river  have  more  wood,  and  the  hills  are  higher, 
until  you  arrive  at  its  entrance  into  the  mountains.  The 
whole  of  the  timber  is  cottonwood,  from  the  entrance  of  the 
Arkansaw  into  the  mountains  to  its  source,  a  distance  of 
about  170  miles  by  the  meanders;  it  is  alternately  bounded 
by  perpendicular  precipices  and  small,  narrow  prairies,  on 
which  the  buffalo  and  elk  have  found  the  means  to  arrive, 
and  are  almost  secure  from  danger  from  their  destroyer — 
man.  In  many  places  the  river  precipitates  itself  over 
rocks,  so  as  at  one  moment  to  be  visible  only  in  the  foam- 
ing and  boiling  of  its  waters — at  the  next  moment  it 
disappears  in  the    chasms    of   the    overhanging   precipices. 

The  Arkansaw'  river,  taking  its  meanders  agreeably  to 

*  The  route  from  the  Missouri,  at  or  near  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas — that 
is,  from  old  Westport  (now  Kansas  City),  Mo.,  and  Independence,  Mo. — to  the 
great  bend  of  the  Arkansaw,  near  the  mouth  of  Walnut  or.,  was  established  as 
an  overland  highway  during  the  '20's,  when  it  began  to  be  regularly  taken  by 
the  traders'  caravans  en  route  to  Santa  Fe.  The  trade  attained  such  proportions 
that  some  years  merchandise  of  the  value  of  $250,000  and  $450,000  was  hauled 
over  this  road  :  see  Gregg's  statistics  for  1S22-43,  Comm.  Pra.,  II.  1844,  p.  160. 
Tack-animals  or  wagons  were  used,  1822-25,  ''"t  after  that  wagons  only  ;  and 


5l8        THE  OLD  CARAVAN  ROUTE  NOTED. 

Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  survey  of  the  lower  part,  is  1,981 
miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi  to  the  moun- 
tains, and  from  thence  to  its  source  192  miles,  making  its 
total  length  2,173  niiles:  all  of  which  may  be  navigated 
with  proper  boats,  constructed  for  the  purpose,  except  the 

these  soon  wore  a  road  as  plain  as  a  turnpike.  It  will  be  interesting  to  go  over 
this  road,  and  identify  the  camping-grounds  of  those  hardy  pioneers  by  the 
modern  names  of  the  places  on  and  near  their  route  ;  especially  as  no  railroad 
now  follows  this  primitive  trace  exactly.  It  held  a  pretty  straight  westward 
course,  bearing  all  the  while  southward  ;  the  distance  from  the  usual  starting 
place  (Independence,  Mo.)  was  called  300  m.  roundly,  but  is  somewhat  less 
than  this.  The  most  noted  point  on  the  route  was  Council  Grove,  so  called 
since  1S25,  when  the  U.  S.  Commissioners  Reeves,  Sibley,  and  Mathers,  who 
there  treated  with  the  Osages,  gave  the  place  its  present  name.  In  the  most 
general  terms,  the  road  followed  the  divide  between  Kansan  waters  on  the  N. , 
or  right  hand  going  W.,  and  on  the  other,  first  those  of  the  Osage  (a  branch  of 
the  Missouri),  then  those  of  the  Neosho  (a  branch  of  the  Arkansaw),  and  finally 
those  of  the  Arkansaw  itself.  But  the  route  was  nearly  everywhere  in  the 
latter  water-shed  ;  after  the  first  few  miles,  every  stream  crossed  ran  to  the 
left.  In  some  places,  the  divide  between  the  two  sets  of  streams  had  little 
breadth ;  one  place  was  called  The  Narrows,  the  approximation  was  so  close. 
The  wagon-train  that  started  from  Independence  usually  left  "  the  States  "  the 
first  day  out,  and  entered  "  the  Indian  territory  " — that  is,  it  went  from  the 
present  .State  of  Missouri  into  the  present  State  of  Kansas  ;  and  all  the  rest  of 
the  way  to  Great  Bend  was  through  the  latter.  Let  us  look  up  some  maps 
and  itineraries  of  half  a  century  ago — say  Gregg's,  pub.  1844  ;  Wislizenus',  of 
1846  ;  and  Beckwith's,  1853— to  see  what  sign-posts  they  set  up.  These  point 
to  such  places  as  the  following,  in  regidar  order  from  E.  to  W. :  Independence 
and  Westport,  Mo. — Big  Blue  camp — Round  Grove,  Lone  Elm,  The  Glen — 
Bull  cr. ,  Black  Jack  cr.  and  pt. ,  Willow  springs,  and  The  Narrows — two  Rock 
creeks  in  succession — One  Hundred  and  Ten  Mile  cr. — Bridge  cr. — Dwissler's  or 
Switzler's  cr. — five  creeks  to  which  the  names  First  Dragoon,  Second  Dragoon, 
Soldier,  Prairie  Chicken,  Elm,  and  One  Hundred  and  Forty-two  Mile  attach  in 
some  itineraries  and  are  to  be  collated  with  Fish  and  Pool,  or  Fish  and  Pleasant 
Valley,  of  others — Bluff  cr. — Big  Rock  cr. — Big  John  spring  and  cr.—Cotiticil 
Grove,  on  its  own  cr. — another  Elm  cr. — Diamond  spring  and  cr. — Lost  spring 
and  Lost  or  Willow  cr. — Cottonwood  cr. — two  or  three  Turkey  creeks  in  succes- 
sion— Little  Arkansaw  r. — several  Little  Cow  creeks,  among  them  one  called 
Chavez  or  Charez  and  Owl — Big  Cow  cr. — approach  to  the  Arkansaw  r.  at  Camp 
Osage — up  the  Arkansaw  to  Walnut  cr.  and  thus  to  Great  Bend.  From  such 
indicia  as  these  it  may  not  be  diflficult  to  reopen  the  road  in  terms  of  modem 
geography,  i.  Independence  maintains  its  independence  as  the  seat  of  Jackson 
Co.,  Mo.,  2  or  3  m.  S.  of  the  Missouri  r.,  and  about  the  same  E.  of  Big 
Blue  cr. ;  but  Westport  is  practically  absorbed  in  the  suburbs  of  Kansas  City, 


HE  OLD  CARAVAN  ROUTE  NOTED.        519 

192  miles  in  the  mountains.  It  has  emptying  into  it  several 
small  rivers  navigable  for  100  miles  and  upward.  Boats 
bound  up  the  whole  length  of  the  navigation  should  embark 
at  its  entrance  on  the  ist  of  February,  when  they  would 
have  the   fresh  [high  water]  quite  to  the  mountains,  and 

Mo.  Starting  from  Independence,  the  first  halt  on  the  prairie,  after  crossing 
Big  Blue  r. ,  was  likely  to  be  "  Big  Blue  camp."  This  was  about  the  heads  of 
Brush  cr. ,  a  small  tributary  of  the  Big  Blue  from  the  W. ,  and  in  the  vicinity  of 
present  Glenn.  Being  nearly  on  the  present  inter-State  boundary,  it  was  the 
"  jumping-off  place  "  from  "  the  States,"  where  the  traveler  entered  "  the  Indian 
territory."  The  military  road  between  Forts  Towson  (on  Red  r.)  and  Leaven- 
worth passed  by.  A  little  to  the  N.  W.  was  the  Shawnee  agency  and  mission, 
on  a  branch  of  Turkey  cr. ,  the  first  tributary  of  the  Kansas  from  the  S. ; 
Shawnee  is  there  now,  and  other  places  on  Turkey  cr.  are  called  Merriam, 
South  Park,  and  Rosedale  ;  the  Kansas  City,  Fort  Scott,  and  Gulf  R.  R. 
meanders  Turkey  cr.  into  Kansas  City.  The  position  is  about  lat.  38°  5g'  N. 
and  long.  g4°  35'  \V.  2.  About  5  m.  further  S.  W.  the  road  passed  by  Lenexa, 
Johnson  Co.,  and  a  camp  could  be  made  on  a  head  of  Indian  cr.,  which  is 
a  small  stream  joined  by  Tomahawk  cr.  before  it  reaches  the  Big  Blue.  The 
road  continued  S.  W. ,  approximately  by  the  present  S.  Kan.  R.  R.,  and  thus 
past  Olathe,  now  seat  of  Johnson  Co.,  where  six  tracks  diverge  in  various 
directions.  This  is  in  the  center  of  the  county,  near  the  head  of  Indian  cr.,  on 
the  head  of  Mill  cr.,  a  tributary  of  the  Kansas,  and  near  the  head  of  a  branch 
of  Cedar  cr.,  another  Kansan  affluent.  3.  "  Round  Grove,"  "  Lone  Elm,"  or 
"  The  Glen"  was  a  camping-place  on  one  of  the  heads  of  Cedar  cr.,  between 
Olathe  and  the  village  of  Gardner  ;  it  was  reckoned  15  m.  from  Big  Blue  camp, 
and  22  m.  from  Westport.  Thus  far  the  Santa  Fc  route  coincided  with  the  even 
more  celebrated  "  Oregon  trail."  But  at  a  point  beyond  Gardner,  in  the 
direction  of  Edgerton,  and  6  or  8  m.  from  Round  Grove,  the  road  forked — 
that  is,  the  Oregon  trail  struck  off  to  the  right  in  the  N.  W.  direction  of  the 
Kansas,  while  the  Santa  Fe  trail  kept  on  the  left-hand  fork  westward.  4.  Bull 
cr.  is  still  so  called,  or  specified  as  Big  Bull  cr.  to  distinguish  it  from  Little 
Bull  cr.  which,  with  other  tributaries,  such  as  Rock,  Ten  Mile,  and  Wea,  it 
receives  before  it  falls  into  Marais  des  Cygnes  (main  Osage)  r.  This  is  the 
creek  on  which  is  Paola,  seat  of  Miami  Co. ,  near  the  junction  of  Wea  cr. ,  and  it 
was  the  first  of  the  Osage  waters  which  the  road  crossed.  The  crossing  was  high 
up  on  its  main  course,  between  Gardner  and  Edgerton,  whence  the  road  con- 
tinued W.  from  Johnson  into  Douglas  Co.  5.  F'rom  the  crossing  of  Bull  cr.  it 
is  9  m.  to  Black  Jack  cr.  and  pt.,  so  called  from  the  kind  of  oak  [Qiiercus 
nigra)  which  grows  there.  Black  Jack  is  still  the  name  of  a  place  between  the 
heads  of  Captain  cr.  (tributary  of  the  Kansas)  and  Rock  cr.  (a  branch  of  Bull 
cr.) ;  it  is  3  m.  due  E.  of  Baldwin  City.  6.  "  Willow  springs"  w.as  a  noted 
camping  place  W.  of  Baldwin  City,  on  one  of  the  heads  of  Ottawa  cr.,  which 
flows  southward  into  the  Marais  des  Cygnes  r. ,  a  little  below  Ottawa,  county 


520  THE   OLD   CARAVAN   ROUTE   NOTED. 

meet  with  no  detention.  But  if  they  should  start  later, 
they  would  find  the  river  1,500  miles  up  nearly  dry.  It  has 
one  singularity  which  struck  me  very  forcibly  at  first  view, 
but  which,  on  reflection,  I  am  induced  to  believe  is  the  same 
case  with  all  the  rivers  which  run  through  a  low,  dry,  sandy 

seat  of  Franklin.  The  distance  of  Willow  springs  from  the  crossing  of  Black 
Jack  cr.  is  10^  m.  Willow  springs  seems  to  be  the  same  place  that  was  called 
Wakarusa  pt.,  or  was  at  any  rate  very  near  it.  Here  the  approximation  of 
Kansan  and  Osage  waters  is  very  close,  and  this  is  the  place  which  consequently 
became  known  as  "  The  Narrows."  The  interlocking  is  between  several  heads 
of  the  Ottawa  cr.  just  said  and  some  tributaries  of  Cole  cr.,  a  branch  of  the 
W.ikarusa.  Camp  could  also  be  made  at  a  place  called  Hickory  pt.,  short  of 
Willow  springs  by  3  or  4  m.  7.  Two  "  Rock  "  creeks  were  passed  at  distances 
given  as  9  and  12  m.  from  Willow  springs  by  some  writers,  and  quite  differ- 
ently by  others  ;  some  also  mention  but  one  "  Rock  "  cr.  Eight  Mile  cr.  was 
headed  if  not  crossed  by  the  road  ;  and  beyond  this  the  road  crossed  one  or  both 
heads  of  Appanoose  cr.  These  creeks  are  tributaries  of  the  Marais  des  Cygnes, 
falling  in  a  mile  apart  at  Ottawa  and  just  beyond.  Part  of  the  uncertainty 
about  these  "  Rock"  creeks  arose  from  the  fact  that  they  often  ran  dry,  were 
woodless,  and  thus  ineligible  for  camping-grounds  ;  hence  they  would  often  be 
p.issed  without  remark.  The  names  seem  to  me  to  apply  rather  to  the  two 
forks  of  the  Appanoose  than  to  the  main  fork  of  the  latter  and  to  Eight  Mile  cr. 
8.  One  Hundred  and  Ten  Mile  cr. ,  which  still  floats  its  long  name,  was  so 
called  because  it  was  taken  to  be  1 10  m.  from  Fort  Osage,  our  earliest  estab- 
lishment of  the  kind  on  the  Missouri.  This  was  built  in  .Sept.,  1808,  at  Fort 
Point  (present  .Sibley  :  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  iSg3,  p.  30),  and  was  sometimes  called 
Fort  Clark.  The  creek  in  mention  was  crossed  at  a  point  taken  to  be  24  m.  from 
Willow  springs,  and  thus  in  the  vicinity  of  present  Scranton,  Osage  Co.  It  is 
a  branch  of  the  Dragoon  cr.  we  have  next  to  consider.  9.  Continuing  nearly 
due  W.,  the  road  crossed  several  heads  of  present  Dragoon  cr.,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Burlingame,  Osage  Co.  This  is  a  comparatively  large  creek,  which  runs 
southeastward  to  fall  into  the  Marais  des  Cygnes  near  Quenemo.  That  one  of 
the  several  heads  of  Dragoon  cr.  on  which  Burlingame  is  situated  is  now  called 
Switzlcr's  cr. ;  the  next  beyond  is  the  main  source  of  Dr.agoon  cr. ,  into  which 
a  branch  called  .Soldier's  cr.  falls,  about  2  m.  W.  of  Burlingame.  But  none  of 
the  older  itineraries  I  have  consulted  spe.ik  of  either  "  Dragoon  "  or  "  Soldier's  " 
cr. ;  instead  of  which,  they  give  a  certain  Bridge  cr.,  as  crossed  8  m.  W.  of  One 
Himdred  and  Ten  Mile  cr.  This  is  precisely  the  distance  given  by  Beckwith 
for  his  "  Dwissler's"  cr.  No  doubt  "  Switzler  "  and  "  Dwissler  "  are  the  same 
person's  names  :  but  whether  this  has  always  been  applied  to  the  same  creek 
may  well  be  doubted.  The  "First  Dragoon  "  cr.  is  now  Dragoon  cr. ;  the 
"  Second  Dragoon  "  cr.  is  now  Soldier's  cr. ;  these  were  passed  near  their  con- 
fluence. 10.  In  the  next  few  miles  the  road  crossed  in  rapid  succession  several 
heads  of  the  Mar.ais  des  Cygnes  itself,  thus  finishing  with  the  Osage  water-shed. 


THE  OLD  CARAVAN  ROUTE  NOTED.        521 

soil  in  warm  climates,  as  I  observed  it  to  be  the  case  with 
the  Rio  del  Norte,  viz.:  for  the  extent  of  400  or  500  miles 
before  you  arrive  near  the  mountains,  the  bed  of  the  river 
is  extensive  and  a  perfect  sand-bar,  which  at  certain  seasons 
is  dry,  or  at  least  the  water  is  standing  in  ponds  not  afford- 

Three  of  these  are  now  known  as  Onion,  Chicken  or  Prairie  Chicken,  and 
Elm  ;  the  latter  is  the  main  head,  and  seems  to  be  the  one  which  appears  as 
"  Fish  "  cr.  in  the  early  narratives — the  name  by  which  it  is  mapped  both  by 
Gregg  and  by  Wislizenus.  A  fourth  liead  of  the  Marais  des  Cygiies  which  the 
road  crossed  is  that  now  known  as  One  Hundred  and  Forty-two  Mile  cr.,  which 
joins  the  main  stream  much  lower  down  than  the  other  three.  This  is  mapped 
by  Gregg  as  Pool  cr.  and  by  Wislizenus  as  Pleasant  Valley  cr.  All  four  of 
these  streams  are  crossed  in  Lyon  Co.,  the  boundary  between  this  and  Osage 
Co.  having  been  passed  at  long.  95°  50'  57"  W.  nearly.  11.  The  road  continued 
across  Big  Rock  cr..  having  first  passed  its  branch,  Bluff  cr.  This  is  a  tributary 
of  the  Neosho.  It  is  probable  that  the  Blufl  cr.  of  early  writers  refers  to  the 
main  Big  Rock  rather  than  to  the  branch  now  called  Bluff,  as  it  is  the  last  one 
they  give  before  coming  to — 12.  Big  John  cr.,  another  tributary  of  the  Neosho, 
which  was  crossed  immediately  before  Council  Grove  was  reached  ;  on  which 
account,  as  well  as  for  its  beautiful  spring  and  eligible  camping-ground,  it  early 
became  noted  under  the  name  it  still  bears.  13.  Council  Grove,  now  the  seat 
of  Morris  Co.  This  was  always  the  most  marked  place  on  the  route — a  sort  of 
halfway  station  between  the  Missouri  settlements  and  the  great  bend  of  the 
Arkansaw.  Its  area  was  indefinitely  extensive  along  the  wooded  bottom-land  of 
the  Neosho,  or,  as  it  was  called  here.  Council  Grove  cr. ;  but  as  the  situation 
became  peopled,  settlement  was  made  chiefly  on  the  W.  or  right  bank  of  the 
stream,  at  the  mouth  of  Elm  cr.,  a  tributary  from  the  W.  This  is  not  far  from 
the  center  of  a  tract  about  45  m.  square  known  as  the  Kansas  Trust  Lands,  of 
which  the  Kansas  Diminished  Reserve  is  a  southwestern  portion.  Council 
Grove  is  only  some  8  ni.  from  the  boundary  between  Lyon  and  Morris  Co., 
which  runs  on  a  meridian  close  by  the  course  of  Big  Rock  cr.  14.  The  road 
continued  W.  up  the  left  or  N.  bank  of  Elm  cr.  for  about  8  m.,  crossed  it  at  or 
near  present  station  Milton  of  the  Topeka,  Salina,  and  Western  R.  K.,  and 
went  on  S.  W.  to  Diamond  spring,  about  8  m.  further.  This  was  a  camping 
place  high  up  on  the  waters  of  Diamond  or,  as  it  is  also  called.  Six  Mile  cr., 
a  branch  of  the  Cottonwood.  15.  Hence  W.  about  16  m.  to  Lost  spring,  on 
Lost  or  Clear  cr. — that  branch  of  the  Cottonwood  which  falls  in  at  Marion. 
This  place  is  a  little  over  the  border  of  Marion  Co.,  and  a  town  or  station  Lost 
Spring  perpetuates  the  name,  at  the  point  where  the  Chicago,  Kansas,  and 
Nebraska  R.  R.  crosses  a  branch  of  the  A.,  T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R.  16.  From 
Lost  spring  the  route  turned  S.  W.  17  m.  to  the  Cottonwood,  approximately  by 
the  present  railroad  line,  and  struck  that  river  at  or  near  Durham,  Marion  Co. 
17.  Continuing  S.  W.  and  then  bearing  more  nearly  W.,  the  road  p.assed  by  or 
near  Canton  and  thence  to  McPherson,  both  in  the  county  of  the  latter  name. 


522  THE   ARKANSAW   RIVER,   RESUMED. 

ing  sufficient  to  procure  a  running  course ;  but  when  you 
come  nearer  the  mountains  you  find  the  river  contracted, 
a  gravelly  bottom,  and  a  deep,  navigable  stream.  From 
these  circumstances  it  is  evident  that  the  sandy  soil  im- 
bibes all  the  [not  evaporated]  waters  which  the  sources  pro- 
ject from  the  mountains,  and  renders  the  river  in  dry 
seasons  less  navigable  500  than  200  miles  from  its  source. 

The  borders  of  the  Arkansaw  river  may  be  termed  the  ter- 
restrial paradise  of  our  territories  for  the  wandering  savages. 
Of  all  countries  ever  visited  by  the  footsteps  of  civilized  man, 
there  never  was  one  probably  that  produced  game  in  greater 
abundance.  We  know  that  the  manners  and  morals  of  the 
erratic  nations  are  such  (the  reasons  I  leave  to  be  given  by 
the  ontologists)  as  never  to  give  them  a  numerous  popula- 
tion ;  and  I  believe  that  there  are  buffalo,  elk,  and  deer 
sufficient  on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansaw  alone,  if  used  with- 
out waste,  to  feed  all  the  savages  in  the  United  States  terri- 
tory one  century.  By  the  route  of  the  Arkansaw  and  the 
Rio  Colorado  of  California,  I  am  confident  in  asserting,  if 
my  information  from  Spanish  gentlemen  of  information 
is  correct,  there  can  be  established  the  best  communication, 
on  this  side  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  between  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  oceans ;  as,  admitting  the  utmost,  the  land  ear- 
Both  are  situated  among  the  heads  of  Turkey  cr.,  a  branch  of  the  Little 
Arkansaw  ;  two  or  three  of  these  were  crossed.  Wlien  two  were  noted,  it  used 
to  be  by  the  names  of  Little  and  Big  Turkey  creeks  ;  map  names  are  now 
Running  Turkey,  Turkey,  .and  West  Turkey  ;  McPherson  is  on  the  last  of 
these,  some  25  ra.  from  the  crossing  of  the  Cottonwood.  The  Turkey  creeks 
vary  very  much  in  character  with  season  and  the  weather.  1 8.  The  road  con- 
tinued about  20  m.  to  the  crossing  of  the  Little  Arkansaw,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
place  now  called  Little  River.  19.  In  10  m.  the  road  reached  one  of  the 
tributaries  of  Cow  cr. ,  and  it  was  10  more  before  all  of  these  were  passed  ;  there 
are  five  or  six  of  them,  and  some  hardly  ever  run  water.  One  of  them  is  now 
called  "  Jarv'is"  cr. :  see  note  '",  p.  424.  Another  is  known  as  Long  Branch  ; 
between  this  and  Little  Cow  cr.  is  Lyons,  seat  of  Rice  Co.,  and  beyond  this 
Big  Cow  cr.  is  crossed.  20.  The  road  now  makes  for  the  Arkansaw  on  a  due 
W.  course,  and  comes  on  to  that  river  at  a  place  which  was  known  as  Camp 
Os.age,  in  the  vicinity  of  present  Ellinwood,  Barton  Co.  This  town  is  only 
3  m.  from  the  mouth  of  Walnut  cr.,  and  the  city  of  Great  Bend  is  a  mile  or 
two  beyond  that. 


A   TRANSCONTINENTAL   ROUTE   INDICATED.  523 

riage  would  not  be  more  than  200  miles,  and  the  route  may 
be  made  quite  as  eligible  as  our  public  highways  over  the 
Alleghany  mountains.  The  Rio  Colorado  is  to  the  great 
Gulph  of  California  what  the  Mississippi  is  to  the  Gulph  of 
Mexico,  and  is  navigable  for  ships  of  considerable  burden, 
to  opposite  the  upper  parts  of  the  province  of  Senora. 

From  the  Arkansaw  to  the  Rio  del  Norte,  by  the  route 
I  passed,  the  country  was  covered  with  mountains  and  small 
prairies,  as  per  chart ;  but  the  game  became  much  more 
scarce,  owing  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Spanish  Indians  and  the 
Spaniards  themselves. 

In  this  western  traverse  of  Louisiana,  the  following 
general  observations  may  be  made,  viz.:  that  from  the 
Missouri  to  the  head  of  the  [Little]  Osage  river,  a  distance 
in  a  straight  line  of  probably  300  miles,  the  country  will 
admit  of  a  numerous,  extensive,  and  compact  population  ; 
thence,  on  the  rivers  Kanses,  La  Platte,  Arkansaw,  and 
their  various  branches,  it  appears  to  me  to  be  only  possible 
to  introduce  a  limited  population  on  their  banks.  The 
inhabitants  would  find  it  most  to  their  advantage  to  pay 
attention  to  the  multiplication  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and 
goats,  all  of  which  they  can  raise  in  abundance,  the  earth 
producing  spontaneously  sufficient  for  their  support,  both 
winter  and  summer,  by  which  means  their  herds  might 
become  immensely  numerous ;  but  the  wood  now  in  the 
country  would  not  be  sufficient  for  a  moderate  share  of 
population  more  than  15  years,  and  it  would  be  out  of 
the  question  to  think  of  using  any  of  it  in  manufactures ; 
consequently,  the  houses  would  be  built  entirely  of  mud- 
brick  [adobe],  like  those  in  New  Spain,  or  of  the  brick 
manufactured  with  fire.  But  possibly  time  may  make  the 
discovery  of  coal-mines,  which  would  render  the  country 
habitable. 

The  source  of  La  Platte  is  situated  in  the  same  chain  of 
mountains  with  the  Arkansaw  (see  chart),  and  comes  from 
that  grand  reservoir  of  snows  and  fountains  which  gives 
birth  on  its  northeastern  side  to  the  Red  river  of  the  Mis- 


524  THE   FORESTRY   QUESTION. 

souri  (the  yellow  stone  river  of  Lewis  [and  Clark],  its  great 
southwestern  branch),  and  La  Platte  ;  on  its  southwestern 
side  it  produces  the  Rio  Colorado  of  California  ;  on  its 
east  the  Arkansaw ;  and  on  its  south  the  Rio  del  Norte 
of  North  Mexico.  I  have  no  hesitation  in  asserting  that 
I  can  take  a  position  in  the  mountains,  whence  I  can  visit 
the  source  of  any  of  those  rivers  in  one  day." 

Numerous  have  been  the  hypotheses  formed  by  various 
naturalists  to  account  for  the  vast  tract  of  untimbered  country 
which  lies  between  the  waters  of  the  Missouri,  Mississippi, 
and  the  Western  Ocean,  from  the  mouth  of  the  latter  river 
to  48°  north  latitude.  Although  not  flattering  myself  to  be 
able  to  elucidate  that  which  numbers  of  highly  scientific 
characters  have  acknowledged  to  be  beyond  their  depth  of 
research,  still  I  would  not  think  I  had  done  my  country 
justice  did  I  not  give  birth  to  what  few  lights  my  examina- 
tion of  those  internal  deserts  has  enabled  me  to  acquire. 
In  that  vast  country  of  which  I  speak,  we  find  the  soil 
generally  diy  and  sandy,  with  gravel,  and  discover  that  the 
moment  we  approach  a  stream  the  land  becomes  more 
humid,  with  small  timber.  I  therefore  conclude  that  this 
country  never  was  timbered  ;  as,  from  the  earliest  age  the 
aridity  of  the  soil,  having  so  few  water-courses  running 
through  it,  and  they  being  principally  dry  in  summer,  has 
never  afforded  moisture  sufficient  to  support  the  growth  of 
timber.  In  all  timbered  land  the  annual  discharge  of  the 
leaves,  with  the  continual  decay  of  old  trees  and  branches, 
creates  a  manure  and  moisture,  which  is  preserved  from  the 

'  This  wild  notion  was  a  pet  of  Pike's,  which  he  indulged  to  the  extent  of 
embodying  it  in  the  title  of  his  book,  and  making  his  map  fit  it.  No  man  can 
go,  afoot  or  on  horseback,  in  anything  like  one  day,  from  any  possible  position, 
to  the  sources  of  all  those  rivers.  It  can  be  taken  as  an  indication  of  the  really 
close  approximation  of  certain  pairs  of  rivers,  which  drain  from  opjiosite  sides  of 
the  same  range,  or  made  elastic  enough  to  suit  the  situation  about  Mt.  Lincoln, 
where  some  heads  of  the  Grand,  the  Arkansaw,  and  the  South  Platte  approxi- 
mate ;  but  the  other  rivers  are  entirely  out  of  the  question.  Owing  to  Pike's 
ignorance  of  the  existence  of  the  A^orth  Platte,  all  that  he  says  in  various  places 
of  his  hypothetical  Yellowstone  comes  nearer  the  facts  in  the  case  of  the  Platte. 
"  La  Platte  "  he  only  knew  from  the  sources  of  the  South  Platte. 


THE   PliAIRIE    PROBLEM.  525 

heat  of  the  sun  not  being  permitted  to  direct  his  rays  per- 
pendicularly, but  only  to  shed  them  obliquely  through  the 
foliage.  But  here  a  barren  soil,  parched  and  dried  up  for 
eight  months  in  the  year,  presents  neither  moisture  nor  nutri- 
tion sufficient  to  nourish  the  timber.  These  vast  plains  of 
the  western  hemisphere  may  become  in  time  as  celebrated 
as  the  sandy  deserts  of  Africa;  for  I  saw  in  my  route,  in 
various  places,  tracts  of  many  leagues  where  the  wind  had 
thrown  up  the  sand  in  all  the  fanciful  form  of  the  ocean's 
rolling  wave,  and  on  which  not  a  speck  of  vegetable  matter 
existed. 

But  from  these  immense  prairies  may  arise  one  great 
advantage  to  the  United  States,  viz.:  The  restriction  of  our 
population  to  some  certain  limits,  and  thereby  a  continua- 
tion of  the  Union.  Our  citizens  being  so  prone  to  rambling 
and  e.Ktending  themselves  on  the  frontiers  will,  through 
necessity,  be  constrained  to  limit  their  extent  on  the  west 
to  the  borders  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  while  they 
leave  the  prairies  incapable  of  cultivation  to  the  wandering 
and  uncivilized  aborigines  of  the  country. 

The  Osage  appear  to  have  emigrated  from  the  north  and 
west ;  from  their  speaking  the  same  language  with  the  Kans, 
Otos,  Missouries,  and  Mahaws,  together  with  their  great 
similarity  of  manners,  morals,  and  customs,  there  is  left  no 
room  to  doubt  that  they  were  originally  the  same  nation, 
but  separated  by  that  great  law  of  nature,  self-preservation, 
the  love  of  freedom,  and  the  ambition  of  various  characters, 
so  inherent  in  the  breast  of  man.  As  nations  purely  erratic 
must  depend  solely  on  the  chase  for  subsistence,  unless 
pastoral,  which  is  not  the  case  with  our  savages,  it  requires 
large  tracts  of  country  to  afford  subsistence  for  a  very 
limited  number  of  souls ;  consequently,  self-preservation 
obliges  them  to  expand  themselves  over  a  large  and  ex- 
tensive district.  The  power  of  certain  chiefs  becoming 
unlimited,  and  their  rule  severe,  added  to  the  passionate 
love  of  liberty  and  the  ambition  of  young,  bold,  and  daring 
characters  who  step  forward  to  head  the  malcontents,  and 


526  ABORIGINAL   OLIGARCHIES. 

like  the  tribes  of  Israel,  to  lead  them  through  the  wilderness 
to  a  new  land — the  land  of  promise  which  flowed  with  milk 
and  honey,  alias  abounded  with  deer  and  buffalo— these 
characters  soon  succeed  in  leading  forth  a  new  colony,  and 
in  process  of  time  establishing  a  new  nation.  The  Mahaws, 
Missouries,  and  Otos  remained  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri 
river,  such  a  distance  up  as  to  be  in  the  reach  of  that 
powerful  enemy,  the  Sioux,  who,  with  the  aid  of  the  small- 
pox, which  the  former  nations  unfortunately  contracted  by 
their  connection  with  the  whites,  have  reduced  the  Mahaws, 
formerly  a  brave  and  powerful  nation,  to  a  mere  cipher, 
and  obliged  the  Otos  and  Missouries  to  join  their  forces,  so 
that  these  now  form  but  one  nation.  The  Kanses  and 
Osage  came  further  to  the  east,  and  thereby  avoided  the 
Sioux,  but  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  lowas,  Sacs,  Kicka- 
pous,  Potowatomies,  Delawares,  Shawanese,  Cherokees, 
Chickasaws,  Chactaws,  Arkansaws,  Caddoes,  and  Tetaus  ; 
and  what  astonished  me  extremely  is  that  they  have  not 
been  entirely  destroyed  by  those  nations.  But  it  must  only 
be  attributed  to  their  ignorance  of  the  enemies'  force,  their 
want  of  concert,  wars  between  themselves,  and  the  great 
renown  the  invaders  always  acquire,  by  the  boldness  of  their 
enterprise,  in  the  minds  of  the  invaded. 

Their  government  is  oligarchical,  but  still  partakes  of  the 
nature  of  a  republic ;  for,  although  the  power  nominally  is 
vested  in  a  small  number  of  chiefs,  yet  they  never  under- 
take any  matter  of  importance  without  first  assembling  the 
warriors  and  proposing  the  subject  in  council,  there  to  be 
discussed  and  decided  on  by  a  majority.  Their  chiefs  are 
hereditary,  in  most  instances,  yet  there  are  many  men  who 
have  risen  to  more  influence  than  those  of  illustrious  ances- 
try, by  their  activity  and  boldness  in  war.  Although  there 
is  no  regular  code  of  laws,  yet  there  is  a  tacit  acknowledg- 
ment of  the  right  which  some  have  to  command  on  certain 
occasions,  whilst  others  are  bound  to  obey,  and  even  to 
submit  to  corporeal  punishment ;  as  is  instanced  in  the 
affair  related  in  my  diary  of  July  29th,  when  Has-ha-ke-da- 


TRAGICOMIC   OSAGE   MAGIC.  527 

tungar  or  Big  Soldier,  whom  I  had  made  a  partisan  to  regu- 
late the  movements  of  the  Indians,  flogged  a  young  Indian 
with  arms  in  his  hands.  On  the  whole,  their  government 
may  be  termed  an  oligarchical  republic,  where  the  chiefs 
propose  and  the  people  decide  on  all  public  acts. 

The  manners  of  the  Osage  are  different  from  those  of  any 
nation  I  ever  saw  except  those  before  mentioned  of  the  same 
origin,  having  their  people  divided  into  classes.  All  the 
bulk  of  the  nation  being  warriors  and  hunters — with  them 
these  terms  being  almost  synonymous— the  remainder  is 
divided  into  two  classes,  cooks  and  doctors ;  the  latter  of 
whom  likewise  exercise  the  functions  of  priests  or  magicians, 
and  have  great  influence  in  the  councils  of  the  nation  by 
their  pretended  divinations,  interpretations  of  dreams,  and 
magical  performances.  An  illustration  of  this  will  be  better 
given  by  the  following  anecdote  of  what  took  place  during 
my  stay  at  the  nation,  in  August,  1806 :  Having  had  all  the 
doctors  or  magicians  assembled  in  the  lodge  of  Ca-ha-ga- 
tonga,  alias  Cheveux  Blancs,  and  about  500  spectators,  they 
had  two  rows  of  fires  prepared,  around  which  the  sacred 
band  was  stationed.  They  commenced  the  tragicomedy  by 
putting  a  large  butcher-knife  down  their  throats,  the  blood 
appearing  to  run  during  the  operation  very  naturally  ;  the 
scene  was  continued  by  putting  sticks  through  the  nose, 
swallowing  bones  and  taking  them  out  of  the  nostrils,  etc. 
At  length  one  fellow  demanded  of  me  what  I  would  give  if 
he  would  run  a  stick  through  his  tongue,  and  let  another 
person  cut  off  the  piece.  I  replied,  "a  shirt."  He  then  ap- 
parently performed  his  promise,  with  great  pain,  forcing  a 
stick  through  his  tongue,  and  then  giving  a  knife  to  a  by- 
stander, who  appeared  to  cut  off  the  piece,  which  he  held  to 
the  light  for  the  satisfaction  of  the  audience,  and  then  joined 
it  to  his  tongue,  and  by  a  magical  charm  healed  the  wound 
immediately.  On  demanding  of  me  what  I  thought  of  the 
performance,  I  replied  I  would  give  him  20  shirts  if  he  would 
let  me  cut  off  the  piece  from  his  tongue ;  this  disconcerted 
him  a  great  deal,  and  I  was  sorry  I  had  made  the  observation. 


528  OSAGE   COOKS,   FEASTS,   AND   LODGES. 

The  cooks  are  either  for  the  general  use,  or  attached  par- 
ticularly to  the  family  of  some  great  man  ;  and  what  is  the 
more  singular,  men  who  have  been  great  warriors  and  brave 
men,  having  lost  all  their  families  by  disease,  in  the  war,  and 
themselves  becoming  old  and  infirm,  frequently  take  up  the 
profession  of  cook,  in  which  they  do  not  carry  arms,  and  are 
supported  by  the  public  or  their  particular  patron. 

They  likewise  exercise  the  functions  of  town  criers,  call- 
ing the  chiefs  to  council  and  to  feasts ;  or  if  any  particular 
person  is  wanted,  you  employ  a  crier,  who  goes  through  the 
village  crying  his  name  and  informing  him  he  is  wanted  at 
such  a  lodge.  When  received  into  the  Osage  village  you 
immediately  present  yourself  at  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  who 
receives  you  as  his  guest,  where  you  generally  eat  first,  after 
the  old  patriarchal  style.  You  are  then  invited  to  a  feast  by 
all  the  great  men  of  the  village,  and  it  would  be  a  great  in- 
sult if  you  did  not  comply,  at  least  as  far  as  to  taste  of  their 
victuals.  In  one  instance,  I  was  obliged  to  taste  of  15  dif- 
ferent entertainments  the  same  afternoon.  You  will  hear 
the  cooks  crying,  "  come  and  eat " — such  an  one  "  gives  a 
feast,  come  and  eat  of  his  bounty."  Their  dishes  were  gen- 
erally sweet  corn  boiled  in  buffalo  grease,  or  boiled  meat  and 
pumpkins ;  but  San  Oriel  [Sans  Oreille],  alias  Tetobasi, 
treated  me  to  a  dish  of  tea  in  a  wooden  dish,  with  new  horn 
spoons,  boiled  meat,  and  crullers  ;  he  had  been  in  the  United 
States.  Their  towns  hold  more  people  in  the  same  space  of 
ground  than  any  places  I  ever  saw.  Their  lodges  are  posted 
with  scarcely  any  regularity,  each  one  building  in  the  man- 
ner, directions,  and  dimensions  which  suit  him  best,  by 
which  means  they  frequently  leave  only  room  for  a  single 
man  to  squeeze  between  them  ;  added  to  this,  they  have 
pens  for  their  horses,  all  within  the  village,  into  which  they 
always  drive  them  at  night,  in  case  they  think  there  is  any 
reason  to  believe  there  is  an  enemy  lurking  in  the  vicinity. 

The  Osage  lodges  are  generally  constructed  with  upright 
posts,  put  firmly  in  the  ground,  of  about  20  feet  in  height, 
with  a  crotch  at  the  top  ;  they  are  about  12  feet  distant  from 


DIVISION   OF  THE  OSAGES.  529 

each  other  ;  in  the  crotch  of  those  posts  are  put  the  ridge- 
poles, over  which  are  bent  small  poles,  the  ends  of  which  are 
brought  down  and  fastened  to  a  row  of  stakes  about  five 
feet  in  height ;  these  stakes  are  fastened  together  with  three 
horizontal  bars,  and  form  the  flank  walls  of  the  lodge.  The 
gable  ends  are  generally  broad  slabs,  rounded  off  to  the 
ridge-pole.  The  whole  of  the  building  and  sides  are  cov- 
ered with  matting  made  of  rushes,  two  or  three  feet  in 
length  and  four  feet  in  width,  which  are  joined  together,  and 
entirely  exclude  the  rain.  The  doors  are  on  the  sides  of  the 
building,  and  generally  are  one  on  each  side.  The  fires  are 
made  in  holes  in  the  center  of  the  lodge,  the  smoke  ascend- 
ing through  apertures  left  in  the  roof  for  the  purpose.  At 
one  end  of  the  dwelling  is  a  raised  platform,  about  three  feet 
from  the  ground,  which  is  covered  with  bear-skins,  generally 
holds  all  the  little  choice  furniture  of  the  master,  and  on 
which  repose  his  honorable  guests.  In  fact,  with  neatness 
and  a  pleasing  companion,  these  dwellings  would  compose 
a  very  comfortable  and  pleasant  summer  habitation,  but  are 
left  in  the  winter  for  the  woods.  They  vary  in  length  from 
36  to  100  feet. 

The  Osage  nation  is  divided  into  three  villages,  and  in  a 
few  years  you  may  say  nations,  viz.:  the  Grand  Osage,  the 
Little  Osage,  and  those  of  the  Arkansaw. 

The  Little  Osage  separated  from  the  Big  Osage  about  100 
years  since,  when  their  chiefs,  on  obtaining  permission  to 
lead  forth  a  colony  from  the  great  council  of  the  nation, 
moved  on  to  the  Missouri  ;  but  after  some  years,  finding 
themselves  too  hard  pressed  by  their  enemies,  they  again 
obtained  permission  to  return,  put  themselves  under  the 
protection  of  the  Grand  village,  and  settled  down  about  six 
miles  off.     (See  chart.) 

The  Arkansaw  schism  was  effected  by  Mr.  Pierre  Choteau, 
10  or  12  years  ago,  as  a  revenge  on  Mr.  Manuel  De  Sezei 
[Liza  or  Lisa],  who  had  obtained  from  the  Spanish  govern- 
ment the  exclusive  trade  of  the  Osage  nation,  by  the  way  of 
the  Osage  river,  after    it    had    been    in    the  hands    of  Mr. 


530  ARKANSAW   SCHISM — OSAGE   QUAKERS. 

Choteau  for  nearly  20  years.  The  latter,  having  the  trade  of 
the  Arkansaw,  thereby  nearly  rendered  abortive  the  exclus- 
ive privilege  of  his  rival.  He  has  been  vainly  promising  to 
the  government  that  he  would  bring  them  back  to  join  the 
Grand  village.  But  his  reception  at  the  Arkansaw  village, 
in  the  autumn  of  i8o6,  must  have  nearly  cured  him  of  that 
idea.  And  in  fact,  every  reason  induces  a  belief  that  the 
other  villages  are  much  more  likely  to  join  the  Arkansaw 
band,  which  is  daily  becoming  more  powerful,  than  the  lat- 
ter is  to  return  to  its  ancient  residence.  For  the  Grand  and 
Little  Osage  are  both  obliged  to  proceed  to  the  Arkansaw 
every  winter,  to  kill  the  summer's  provision ;  also,  all  the 
nations  with  whom  they  are  now  at  war  are  situated  to  the 
westward  of  that  river,  whence  they  get  all  their  horses. 
These  inducements  are  such  that  the  young,  the  bold,  and 
the  enterprising  are  daily  emigrating  from  the  Osage  village 
to  the  Arkansaw  village.  In  fact,  it  would  become  the  in- 
terest of  our  government  to  encourage  that  emigration,  if 
we  intend  to  encourage  the  extension  of  the  settlement  of 
Upper  Louisiana ;  but  if  the  contrary  (our  true  policy), 
every  method  should  be  taken  to  prevent  their  elongation 
from  the  Missouri. 

They  are  considered  by  the  nations  to  the  south  and  west 
of  them  as  a  brave  and  warlike  nation  ;  but  are  by  no  means 
a  match  for  the  northern  nations,  who  make  use  of  the  rifle, 
and  can  combat  them  two  for  one  ;  whilst  they  again  may 
fight  those  armed  with  bows,  arrows,  and  lances,  at  the  same 
disproportion. 

The  humane  policy  which  the  United  States  have  held 
forth  to  the  Indian  nations,  of  accommodating  their  differ- 
ences and  acting  as  mediators  between  them,  has  succeeded 
to  a  miracle  with  the  Osage  of  the  Grand  village  and  the 
Little  Osage.  In  short,  they  have  become  a  nation  of 
Quakers,  as  respects  the  nations  to  the  north  and  east  of 
them,  at  the  same  time  that  they  continue  to  make  war  on 
the  naked  and  defenseless  savages  of  the  west.  An  instance 
of  their  forbearance  was  exhibited  in  an  attack  made  on  a 


MASSACRE  OF  OSAGES — FRENCH  INFLUENCE.    53 1 

hunting-party  of  the  Little  Osage,  in  the  autumn  of  1808,  on 
the  grand  river  of  the  Osage,  by  a  party  of  the  Potowato- 
mies,  who  crossed  the  Missouri  river  by  the  Sahne,  and 
found  the  women  and  children  alone  and  defenseless.  The 
men,  50  or  60,  having  found  plenty  of  deer  the  day  before, 
had  encamped  out  all  night.  The  enemy  struck  the  camp 
about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  killed  all  the  women  and 
boys  who  made  resistance,  also  some  infants,  the  whole 
number  amounting  to  34  ;  and  led  into  captivity  near  60,  46 
of  whom  were  afterward  recovered  by  the  United  States 
and  sent  under  my  protection  to  the  village.  When  the  men 
returned  to  camp,  they  found  their  families  all  destroyed 
or  taken  prisoners.  My  narrator  had  his  wife  and  four  chil- 
dren killed  on  the  spot ;  yet,  in  obedience  to  the  injunctions 
of  their  great  father,  they  forebore  to  revenge  the  blow. 

As  an  instance  of  the  great  influence  the  French  formerly 
had  over  this  nation,  the  following  anecdote  may  be  inter- 
esting :  Chtoka,  alias  Wet  Stone,  a  Little  Osage,  said  he 
"  was  at  Braddock's  defeat,  with  all  the  warriors  who  could 
be  spared  from  both  villages ;  that  they  were  engaged  by  Mr. 
M'Cartie,  who  commanded  at  Fort  Chartres,'  and  who  sup- 
plied them  with  powder  and  ball  ;  that  the  place  of  rendez- 
vous was  near  a  lake  and  large  fall  (supposed  to  be  Niagara) ; 
the  Kans  did  not  arrive  until  after  the  battle  ;  but  the  Otos 
were  present.  They  were  absent  from  their  villages  seven 
months,  and  were  obliged  to  eat  their  horses  on  their  return." 

'This  "Mr.  M'Cartie"  was  Le  Chevalier  Macarty,  Makarty,  etc.,  who  in 
1751  succeeded  Le  Sieurde  St.  Clair  as  major-commandant  of  the  Illinois.  He 
w.as  by  birth  an  Irishman,  became  a  major  of  engineers,  .and  served  about  nine 
years  in  the  position  indicated.  The  far-famed  Fort  Chartres  is  called  by  Wal- 
lace "  the  only  great  architectural  work  of  the  French  in  the  entire  basin  of  the 
Mississippi,  over  which,  in  succession,  had  proudly  floated  the  flags  of  two  pow- 
erful nations."  Old  Fort  Chartres,  or  De  Chartres,  supposed  to  have  been  so 
named  for  the  Due  de  Chartres,  son  of  the  then  Regent  of  France,  was  built  in 
1719  and  1720,  under  the  direction  of  Pierre  Duque  de  Boisbriant,  the  king's 
lieutenant  for  France,  at  the  expense  of  tlie  Comp.any  of  the  West  ;  it  at  once 
became  military  headquarters  and  the  center  of  authority,  and  was  long  promi- 
nent in  llie  French  history  of  Illinois.  It  was  rebuilt  in  1753-56  during 
M.ajor  M.icarty's  incumbency,  upon  the  plans  of  the  French  engineer  Saucier,  at 


532  OSAGE   AGRICULTURE — THE   PAWNEES. 

The  Osage  raise  large  quantities  of  corn,  beans,  and  pump- 
kins, which  they  manage  with  the  greatest  economy,  in 
order  to  make  them  last  from  year  to  year.  All  the  agricul- 
tural labor  is  done  by  women. 

If  the  government  think  it  expedient  to  establish  factories 
for  the  Grand  and  Little  villages,  equidistant  from  both, 
which  would  answer  for  the  Grand  and  Little  villages,  the 
other  establishment  should  be  on  the  Arkansaw,  near  the 
entrance  of  the  Verdigrise  river,  for  the  Arkansaw  Osage,  as 
stated  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson. 

The  Pawnees  are  a  numerous  nation  of  Lidians,  who 
reside  on  the  rivers  Platte  and  Kans.  They  are  divided 
into  three  distinct  nations,  two  of  them  being  now  at  war  ; 
but  their  manners,  language,  customs,  and  improvements 
are  in  the  same  degree  of  advancement.  On  La  Platte 
reside  the  Grand  Pawnees,  and  on  one  of  its  branches  the 
Pawnee  Loups,  with  whom  the  Pawnee  Republicans  are  at 
war.     [See  note  ",  p.  412.] 

Their  language  is  guttural,  and  approaches  nearer  to  the 
language  of  the  Sioux  than  the  Osage  ;  and  their  figure,  tall, 
slim,  with  high  cheek-bones,  clearly  indicates  their  Asiatic 
origin.  But  their  emigration  south,  and  the  ease  with  which 
they  live  on  the  buffalo  plains,  have  probably  been  the  cause 
of  a  degeneracy  of  manners,  for  they  are  neither  so  brave  nor 
so  honest  as  their  more  northern  neighbors.  Their  govern- 
ment is  the  same  as  the  Osages',  an  hereditary  aristocracy, 
the  father  handing  his  dignity  of  chieftain  down  to  his  son  ; 

an  estimated  cost  of  5,000,000  livres  ;  and  this  "  new  Chartres  "  is  described 
as  a  "  huge  structure  of  masonry,  an  oliject  of  wonder  and  curiosity  to  all  who 
ever  beheld  it " — some  of  these  being  antiquarians  of  the  present  day.  The  his- 
toric fortress  suffered  encroachments  of  the  Mississippi  for  sever.il  years  ;  it  was 
finally  dilapidated  during  a  freshet  in  1772,  then  evacuated  by  the  British  gar- 
rison, which  removed  to  Fort  Gage,  and  never  reoccupied.  We  have  many 
memorials  of  the  progress  of  its  decay,  as  well  as  of  the  period  of  its  greatness  : 
see  Wallace's  Illinois  and  Louisiana  under  French  rule,  1893,  pp.  270,  271, 
313-318,  which  include  v.arious  important  references,  notably  to  Pittman,  whose 
description  of  the  fort  as  it  was  in  1766  is  transcribed,  and  to  Beck's  Gazetteer, 
giving  a  plan  of  the  fort  from  observations  made  in  1820.  The  name  stands  for 
a  steamboat  landing  near  Prairie  du  Rocher,  Randolph  Co.,  111. 


PAWNEE   POLICY,    HORSES,   AND   HOUSES.  533 

but  their  power  is  extremely  limited,  notwithstanding  the 
long  life  they  have  to  establish  their  authority  and  influence. 
They  merely  recommend  and  give  council  in  the  great  assem- 
blage of  the  nation. 

They  are  not  so  cleanly,  neither  do  they  carry  their  inter- 
nal policy  so  far  as,  the  Osage  ;  but  out  of  the  bounds  of  the 
village  it  appeared  to  me  that  they  exceeded  them  ;  as  I 
have  frequently  seen  two  young  soldiers  come  out  to  my 
camp  and  instantly  disperse  a  hundred  persons,  by  the 
strokes  of  long  whips,  who  were  assembled  there  to  trade 
with  my  men.  In  point  of  cultivation  [agriculture],  they  are 
about  equal  to  the  Osage,  raising  a  sufificiency  of  corn  and 
pumpkins  to  afford  a  little  thickening  to  their  soup  during 
the  year.  The  pumpkin  they  cut  into  thin  slices  and  dry  in 
the  sun,  which  reduces  it  to  a  small  size,  and  not  more  than 
a  tenth  of  its  original  weight. 

With  respect  to  raising  horses,  the  Pawnees  are  far  supe- 
rior to  the  Osage,  having  vast  quantities  of  excellent  horses 
which  they  are  daily  increasing,  by  their  attention  to  their 
breeding  mares,  which  they  never  make  use  of;  and  in  addi- 
tion they  frequently  purchase  from  the  Spaniards. 

Their  houses  are  a  perfect  circle,  except  where  the  door 
enters,  whence  there  is  a  projection  of  about  15  feet ;  the 
whole  being  constructed  after  the  following  manner:  First, 
there  is  an  excavation  of  a  circular  form  made  in  the  ground, 
about  4  feet  deep  and  60  in  diameter,  where  there  is  a  row 
of  posts  about  5  feet  high,  with  crotches  at  the  top,  set 
firmly  in  all  round,  and  horizontal  poles  from  one  to  the 
other.  There  is  then  a  row  of  posts,  forming  a  circle  about 
10  feet  wide  in  the  diameter  of  the  others,  and  10  feet 
in  height ;  the  crotches  of  these  are  so  directed  that  hori- 
zontal poles  are  also  laid  from  one  to  the  other ;  long  poles 
are  then  laid  slanting  upward  from  the  lower  poles  over 
the  higher  ones,  and  meeting  nearly  at  the  top,  leaving  only 
a  small  aperture  for  the  smoke  of  the  fire  to  pass  out,  which 
is  made  on  the  ground  in  the  middle  of  the  lodge.  There  is 
then  a  number  of  small  poles  put  up  around  the  circle,  so  as 


534  PAWNEE   ARCHITECTURE   AND   GAMES. 

to  form  the  wall,  and  wicker-work  is  run  through  the  whole. 
The  roof  is  then  thatched  with  grass,  and  earth  is  thrown  up 
against  the  wall  until  a  bank  is  made  to  the  eaves  of  the 
thatch  ;  that  is  also  filled  with  earth  one  or  two  feet  thick, 
and  rendered  so  tight  as  entirely  to  exclude  any  storm, 
and  make  the  houses  extremely  warm.  The  entrance  is 
about  six  feet  wide,  with  walls  on  each  side,  and  roofed  like 
our  houses  in  shape,  but  of  the  same  materials  as  the  main 
building.  Inside  there  are  numerous  little  apartments  con- 
structed of  wicker-work  against  the  wall,  with  small  doors ; 
they  have  a  great  appearance  of  neatness,  and  in  them  the 
members  of  the  family  sleep  and  have  their  little  deposits. 
Their  towns  are  by  no  means  so  much  crowded  as  the  Osage, 
giving  much  more  space;  but  they  have  the  same  mode  of 
introducing  their  horses  into  the  village  at  night,  which 
makes  it  extremely  crowded.  They  keep  guards  with  the 
horses  during  the  day. 

They  are  extremely  addicted  to  gaming,  and  have  for  that 
purpose  a  smooth  piece  of  ground  cleared  out  on  each  side 
of  the  village  for  about  150  yards  in  length,  on  which  they 
play  the  three  following  games :  One  is  played  by  two 
players  at  a  time,  and  in  the  following  manner :  They  have 
a  large  hoop  about  four  feet  in  diameter,  in  the  center  of 
which  is  a  small  leather  ring  ;  this  is  attached  to  leather 
thongs  which  are  extended  to  the  hoop,  and  by  that  means 
kept  in  its  central  position ;  they  also  have  a  pole  about  six 
feet  in  length,  which  the  player  holds  in  one  hand ;  he  then 
rolls  the  hoop  from  him,  and  immediately  slides  the  pole 
after  it ;  and  the  nearer  the  head  of  the  pole  lies  to  the 
small  ring  within  the  hoop,  when  they  both  fall,  the  greater 
is  the  cast.  But  I  could  not  ascertain  their  mode  of  count- 
ing sufficiently  to  decide  when  the  game  was  won.  Another 
game  is  played  with  a  small  stick,  with  several  hooks,  and  a 
hoop  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  which  is  rolled  along 
the  ground,  and  the  forked  stick  darted  after  it,  the  value 
of  the  cast  being  estimated  by  the  hook  on  which  the  ring 
is  caught.     This  game  is  gained  at   100.     The  third  game 


PAWNEE   MIGRATIONS  AND   WARS.  535 

alluded  to  is  that  of  la  platte,  described  by  various  travelers 
[as  the  platter  or  dish  game] ;  this  is  played  by  the  women, 
children,  and  old  men,  who,  like  grasshoppers,  crawl  out  to 
the  circus  to  bask  in  the  sun,  probably  covered  only  with  an 
old  buffalo  robe. 

The  Pawnees,  like  the  Osage,  quit  their  villages  in  the 
winter,  making  concealments  under  ground  of  their  corn,  in 
which  [caches]  it  keeps  perfectly  sound  until  spring.  The 
only  nations  with  whom  the  Pawnees  are  now  at  war  are  the 
Tetaus,  Utahs,  and  Kyaways.  The  two  latter  of  these  re- 
side in  the  mountains  of  North  Mexico,  and  shall  be  treated 
when  I  speak  of  the  Spanish  Indians.  The  former  gen- 
erally inhabit  the  borders  of  the  Upper  Red  river,  Arkan- 
saw,  and  Rio  del  Norte.  The  war  has  been  carried  on  by 
those  nations  for  years,  without  any  decisive  action  being 
fought,  although  they  frequently  march  with  200  or  300  men. 

The  Pawnees  have  much  the  advantage  of  their  enemies 
in  point  of  arms,  at  least  one-half  having  firearms,  whilst 
their  opponents  have  only  bows,  arrows,  lances,  shields,  and 
slings.  The  Pawnees  always  march  to  war  on  foot ;  their 
enemies  are  all  cavalry.  This  nation  may  be  considered  as 
the  one  equidistant  between  the  Spanish  population  and  that 
of  our  settlements  in  Louisiana,  but  are  at  present  decidedly 
under  Spanish  influence,  and,  should  a  war  commence  to- 
morrow, would  all  be  in  their  interest.  This  circumstance 
does  not  arise  from  their  local  situation,  because  they  are  all 
situated  on  navigable  waters  of  the  Missouri  ;  nor  from  their 
interest,  because  from  the  Spaniards  they  obtain  nothing  ex- 
cept horses  and  a  few  coarse  blankets  of  W.  Mexico  ;  whilst 
from  us  they  receive  all  their  supplies  of  arms,  ammunition, 
and  clothing- — but  all  those  articles  in  very  small  quantities, 
not  more  than  half  having  blankets,  and  many  being  with- 
out breech-cloths  to  cover  their  nakedness.  But  the  grand 
principle  by  which  the  Spaniards  keep  them  in  their  influ- 
ence is  fear,  frequently  chastising  their  small  parties  on 
the  frontiers.  Their  sending  out  the  detachment  of  600 
horsemen,  in    1806,  has  made   such  an  impression  that  the 


536  KANSAS   INDIANS— COMANCHES. 

Spaniards  may  safely  calculate  on  the  Pawnees  in  case  of 
war.  This  detachment  took  with  them  some  of  the  Pawnees 
to  Chihuahua,  at  the  same  time  that  I  entered  the  Spanish 
provinces.  But,  by  our  withholding  their  supplies  of  arms, 
ammunition,  and  clothing  for  one  or  two  years,  bringing  on 
their  backs  the  Osage  and  Kans,  the  Pawnees  would  be  in 
great  distress,  and  feel  the  necessity  of  a  good  understand- 
ing with  the  United  States. 

If  there  should  ever  be  factories  established  for  their  ac- 
commodation, these  should  be  at  the  entrances  of  La  Platte 
and  Kans  rivers,  as  those  waters  are  of  so  uncertain  naviga- 
tion (only  in  freshets)  that  it  would  be  folly  to  attempt  any 
permanent  establishments  high  up  them  ;  and  to  make  those 
establishments  useful  to  the  Pawnees,  we  must  presuppose 
our  influence  sufficient  to  guarantee  them  peace  and  a  safe 
passage  through  the  nations  of  the  Kans,  Otos,  and  Mis- 
souries — the  former  on  the  Kans  river,  the  two  latter  on 
the  river  Platte.  My  journal  will  give  various  other  strik- 
ing traits  of  the  national  character  of  the  Pawnees,  and  my 
dissertation  on  the  subject  of  the  Spanish  claims  will  further 
elucidate  the  political  and   relative  situation  of  that  nation. 

The  Kans  are  a  small  nation,  situated  on  a  river  of  that 
name  (see  the  chart),  and  are  in  language,  manners,  customs, 
and  agricultural  pursuits,  precisely  similar  to  the  Osage  ; 
with  whom  I  believe  them,  as  before  observed,  to  have  had 
one  common  origin.  It  may  be  said,  however,  that  their 
language  differs  in  some  degree,  but  not  more  than  the 
dialect  of  our  Eastern  States  differs  from  that  of  the  South- 
ern. But  in  war  they  are  yet  more  brave  than  their  Osage 
brethren ;  being,  although  not  more  than  one-third  of  their 
number,  their  most  dreaded  enemies,  and  frequently  making 
the  Pawnees  tremble. 

The  Tetaus,  or  Camanches  as  the  Spaniards  term  them, 
[called]  Padoucas  by  the  Pawnees,  are  a  powerful  nation 
who  are  entirely  erratic,  without  the  least  species  of  culti- 
vation, and  subsist  solely  by  the  chase.  But  their  wan- 
derings are  confined  to  the  frontiers  of  New  Mexico  on  the 


SPANISH   RELATIONS   OF   COMANCHES.  537 

W.,  to  the  nations  on  the  Lower  Red  river  on  the  S.,  to  the 
Pawnees  and  Osage  on  the  E.,  and  to  the  Utahs,  Kyaways, 
and  various  unknown  nations  on  the  N.  This  nation, 
although  entirely  in  our  territories,  is  claimed  exclusively 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  may  be  said  to  be  decidedly  in 
their  interest,  notwithstanding  the  few  who  lately  paid  a 
visit  to  Natchitoches. 

They  are  the  only  nation  bordering  on  the  Spanish  settle- 
ments whom  that  nation  treats  as  an  independent  people. 
They  are  by  the  Spaniards  reputed  brave — indeed,  they 
have  given  some  very  strong  evidences  of  this;  for  when  I 
first  entered  the  province  of  New  Mexico,  I  was  shown 
various  deserted  villages  and  towns  beaten  down,  which  had 
been  destroyed  by  the  Tetaus  in  an  invasion  of  that  prov- 
ince, when  they  were  at  war  with  the  Spaniards  about  ten 
years  since. 

From  the  village  of  Agua  Caliente  (see  chart)  they  carried 
off  at  one  time  2,000  head  of  horses ;  but  they  now  have 
an  excellent  understanding  with  the  Spaniards,  which  Don 
F"acundo  Malagare's  [Malgares']  late  expedition  has  served 
very  much  to  increase.  He  personally  related  his  rencounter 
with  the  Tetaus  in  the  following  manner :  Having  been 
personally  apprised  of  each  other's  approximation,  and 
appointed  a  time  for  the  Indians  to  receive  him  on  an 
extensive  prairie,  he  sallied  forth  from  his  camp  with  500 
men,  all  on  white  horses,  excepting  himself  and  his  two 
principal  officers,  who  rode  jet  black  ones,  and  was  received 
on  the  plain  by  1,500  of  the  savages,  dressed  in  their  gay 
robes,  and  displaying  their  various  feats  of  chivalry.  I  leave 
this  subject  to  the  judicious,  whether  the  circumstance 
would  not  be  handed  down  to  the  latest  posterity  as  an 
instance  of  the  good  will  and  respect  which  the  Spaniards 
paid  their  nation,  as  no  doubt  Malgares  had  policy  sufificient 
to  induce  them  to  believe  that  the  expedition  was  princi- 
pally fitted  out  with  a  view  to  pay  them  a  visit.  As  I 
was  not  in  their  country,  and  did  not  meet  with  any  of  the 
wandering  parties,   I    shall   not  attempt   to  describe    their 


538  ETHNOGRAPHY   CONCLUDED. 

manners  and  customs;  but  in  my  statistical  tables  I  shall 
include  them,  agreeably  to  the  best  information  obtained  of 
their  nation. 

I  shall  here  conclude  my  account  of  the  nations  with  whom 
I  became  acquainted  in  our  boundaries;  as  I  conceive  the 
Spanish  Indians  require  a  different  discussion  and  attention 
from  a  different  point  of  view,  as  their  missionaries  have 
succeeded  with  them  beyond  what  we  can  form  an  idea 
of.  My  diary  will  present  numerous  additional  circum- 
stances, to  form  an  idea  of  those  savages,  their  manners, 
customs,  principles,  and  biases,  political  and  local. 

Washington  City,  January,  1808. 


CHAPTER   V. 

WILKINSON'S   REPORT  ON  THE  ARKANSAW." 

New  Orleans,  April  6th,  1807. 

SIR :  Agreeably  to  your  order  dated  in  June,  1806,  I  took 
my  departure  from  Belle  Fontaine,  under  the  command 
of  Lieutenant  Pike,  early  in  July  [15th].  The  Missouri 
being  well  up,  we  found  the  navigation  as  favorable  as  could 
have  been  expected.  On  the  28th  of  the  same  month  we 
reached  the  mouth  of  the  Osage  river,  which  we  found 
a  pellucid,  tranquil  stream,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
trifling  ripples,  and  a  fall  of  about  six  feet  in  two-thirds  of 
a  mile,  called  the  Old  Man's  Rapid.  The  river  abounds 
with  various  kinds  of  good  fish,  especially  the  soft-shelled 
turtle  \Trionyx  or  Aspidoncctcs  fcrox\  which  we  took  in 
great  numbers.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  generally  formed 
by  craggy  cliffs,  and  not  unfrequently  you  perceive  stupen- 

'  The  following  Report  was  written  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  at  a  time  when 
it  was  expected  I  had  been  cut  off  by  the  savages.  It  consequently  alluded  to 
transactions  relative  to  the  Expedition  previous  to  our  separation,  which  I  have 
since  corrected.  But  the  adventures  of  his  party,  after  our  separation,  are  given 
in  his  own  words. — Z.  M.  P. 

The  above  explanatory  note  by  Pike  stood  alone  on  p.  19  of  the  App.  to 
Pt.  2  of  the  orig.  ed.  Wilkinson's  Report,  of  which  Chapter  V.  now  consists, 
formed  Doc.  No.  2  of  that  Appendix,  running  pp.  20-32.  It  rehearses  the 
movements  of  Pike's  party  to  Oct.  28th,  1806,  when  the  two  officers  separated 
at  Great  Bend,  and  Wilkinson  started  down  the  Arkansaw.  It  thus  serves  to 
some  extent  to  check  Pike's  narrative,  but  is  chiefly  notable  in  this  respect  for 
some  discrepancies  which  I  have  been  unable  to  adjust.  Lieutenant  Wilkin- 
son's health  was  not  good  during  his  descent  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  he  endured 
much  hardship  ;  to  which  causes  is  doubtless  due  in  part  the  lack  of  anything 
very  notable  in  his  Report.  James  Biddle  Wilkinson  was  the  son  of  General 
James  Wilkinson  of  Maryland.  He  entered  the  army  as  a  second  lieutenant  of 
the  4th  Infantry,  Feb.  i6th,  1801  ;  was  transferred  to  the  2d  Infantry,  Apr. 
1st,  1802  ;  became  first  lieutenant  Sept.  30th,  1803,  and  captain  Oct.  8th,  1808  , 
and  died  Sept.  7th,  1813. 

539 


540  WILKINSON  ENTERS   THE   OSAGE   VILLAGE. 

dous  rocks  projecting  over  the  water,  out  of  which  issue 
excellent  springs.  The  most  remarkable  natural  curiosity 
which  I  observed  is  a  pond  of  water,  about  300  toises '  in 
circumference,  six  miles  above  the  Yanga  [Yungar,  Ne- 
hemgar,  or  Niangua  river],  on  a  rising  j^iece  of  ground,  con- 
siderably above  the  level  of  the  river,  which  keeps  one  con- 
tinued height,  is  perfectly  pure  and  transparent,  and  has  no 
outlet  by  which  to  discharge. 

On  the  I2th  of  August  the  Osages  appeared  dissatisfied 
with  the  tedious  movement  of  our  barges,  and  expressed 
a  wish  to  cross  the  prairie  to  their  villages,  in  case  an  escort 
were  allowed  them.  I  immediately  volunteered  my  services, 
and  we  parted  with  the  boats  at  the  mouth  of  Grand  river 
[the  branch  of  the  Osage],  the  spot  where  our  ransomed 
prisoners  were  taken  the  preceding  winter  by  the  Potowato- 
mies.  We  reached  the  village  of  the  Little  Osages  after 
a  fatiguing  and  laborious  march  of  six  days  across  an  arid 
prairie. 

When  within  a  mile  of  the  town,  the  chief  Tuttasuggy, 
or  Wind,  desired  that  a  regular  procession  might  be  ob- 
served ;  he  accordingly  placed  me  between  himself  and  his 
first  warrior,  and  the  ransomed  captives  followed  by  files. 
Half  a  mile  from  the  village  we  were  met  by  180  horsemen, 
painted  and  decorated  in  a  very  fanciful  manner ;  they 
were  considered  as  a  guard  of  honor,  and  on  our  approach 
opened  to  the  right  and  left,  leaving  a  sufficient  space  for 
us  to  pass  through.  A  few  yards  in  advance,  on  the  right, 
I  perceived  60  or  more  horsemen  painted  with  blue  chalk  ; 
when  the  chief  observed  them,  he  commanded  a  halt,  and 
sent  forward  his  younger  brother  Nezuma,  or  Rain  that 
Walks,  with  a  flag  and  silk  handkerchief  as  a  prize  for  the 
swiftest  horseman.  At  a  given  signal  they  started  off  at 
full  speed,  the  two  foremost  taking  the  flag  and  handker- 
chief, and  the  rest  contenting  themselves  with  having  shown 
their  agility  and  skill.     As  I    entered   the  village    I    was 

'  The  toise  is  an  old  French  measure  of  length  equal  to  six  French  feet  or 
I.g4g  meter,  and  therefore  to  about  6.4  English  feet. 


WILKINSON  JOURNEYS  TO  THE   PAWNEES.  54I 

saluted  by  a  discharge  from  four  swivels  which  the  Indians 
had  taken  from  an  old  fort  [Fort  Carondelet :  see  note  ", 
p.  384]  erected  by  the  Spaniards  on  the  river,  and  passed 
through  a  crowd  of  nearly  a  thousand  persons,  part  of 
whom  I  learned  were  of  the  Grand  village.  I  was  imme- 
diately, but  with  ceremony,  ushered  into  the  lodge  of 
Soldier  of  the  Oak,  who,  after  having  paid  me  some  very 
handsome  compliments,  courteously  invited  me  to  eat  of 
green  corn,  buffalo-meat,  and  water-melons  about  the  size 
of  a  24-pound  shot,  which,  though  small,  were  highly 
flavored. 

After  Lieutenant  Pike's  arrival  with  the  boats,  we  formed 
our  camp  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  equidistant  from  the 
villages  of  the  Grand  and  Little  Osages,  and  he  selected 
a  situation  for  making  his  observations,  which  he  did  not 
complete  until  the  28th  of  the  month.  The  29th  and  30th 
were  devoted  to  packing  as  conveniently  and  carefully  as 
possible  the  mathematical  instruments  and  a  small  quantity 
of  provisions.  On  the  1st  of  September  we  commenced  our 
march  for  the  Pawnee  Republic,  and  entered  on  that  vast 
and  extensive  prairie  which  lies  between  the  Missouri  and 
the  Rio  del  Norte. 

We  coursed  the  [Little]  Osage  river  to  its  source,  and 
almost  immediately  crossed  some  of  the  small  branches  of 
Grand  [Neosho]  river,  which  enters  the  Arkansaw  about 
700  miles  from  the  Mississippi.  After  passing  Grand  river, 
which  we  found  to  be  60  or  80  yards  wide,  we  marched 
a  whole  day  [week ']  before  we  reached  the  waters  of  the 
Kansas,  and  were  agreeably  surprised  to  find  ourselves  on 
the  bank  of  a  bold  running  stream  [Smoky  Hill  fork]. 
Between  this  and  the  village  of  the  Pawnees  we  crossed 
two  strongly  impregnated  salines.  We  then  passed  over 
a  sandy  country  almost  destitute  of  herbage  ;  and  after 
a  painful  march  under  an  oppressive  sun,  over  an  irregular 

•  The  party  reached  and  crossed  the  Neosho  Sept.  gth,  and  struck  the  Smoky 
Hill  fork  of  the  Kansas  r.  on  the  morning  of  the  l6th  :  see  those  dates  in 
Pike's  itinerary,  and  notes  there. 


542  WILKINSON   ENTERS  THE   PAWNEE   VILLAGE. 

and  broken  surface,  we  arrived  at  the  town  of  the  Republi- 
can Pawnees  on  the  25th  of  September. 

We  the  day  before  were  met  by  a  number  of  warriors 
whom  curiosity  had  led  thus  far  to  see  us,  among  whom 
was  the  third  consequential  character  of  the  Republican 
party  ;  for  you  must  know  that  the  village  is  composed  of 
the  followers  of  a  dissatisfied  warrior  who  first  made  this 
establishment,  and  the  adherents  of  a  regular  chief  of  the 
Grand  Pawnees  who  migrated  thither  some  few  years  since 
with  his  family,  and  usurped  the  power  of  the  Republican 
warrior.  To  such  a  pitch  does  this  party  spirit  prevail  that 
you  easily  perceive  the  hostility  which  exists  between  the 
adherents  of  the  two  chiefs. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  25th  we  were  joined  by 
a  few  more  savages  of  distinction,  headed  by  the  brother  of 
Characterish,  or  White  Wolf,  chief  of  the  nation,  who  was 
to  act  as  master  of  the  ceremonies  to  our  formal  entry. 
Preparatory  to  our  march,  we  had  our  men  equipped  as 
neatly  as  circumstances  would  admit.  About  mid-day  we 
reached  the  summit  of  a  lofty  chain  of  ridges,  where  we 
were  requested  to  halt  and  await  the  arrival  of  the  chief, 
who  was  half  a  mile  from  us,  with  300  horsemen,  who  were 
generally  naked,  except  buffalo  robes  and  breech  cloths, 
and  painted  with  white,  yellow,  blue,  and  black  paint.  At 
tne  word  of  the  chief  tiie  warriors  divided,  and,  pushing  on 
at  full  speed,  flanked  us  on  the  right  and  left,  yelling  in 
a  most  diabolical  manner.  The  chief  advanced  in  front, 
accompanied  by  Iskatappe,  or  Rich  Man,  the  second  great 
personage  of  the  village  and  his  two  sons,  who  were  clothed 
in  scarlet  cloth.  They  approached  slowly,  and  when  within 
100  yards  the  three  latter  halted  ;  Characterish  advanced  in 
great  state,  and  when  within  a  few  paces  of  us  stretched  out 
his  hand  and  cried,  ''  Bon  jour."  Thus  ended  the  first  cere- 
mony. We  moved  on  about  a  mile  further,  and  having 
gained  the  summit  of  a  considerable  hill,  we  discovered  the 
village  directly  at  its  base.  We  here  were  again  halted,  and 
the  few  Osages  who  accompanied   us  were  ordered  in  front 


WILKINSON  ON  THE   REPUBLICAN   FORK.  543 

and  seated  in  rank  entire.  The  chief  squatted  on  his  hams 
in  front  of  them  and  filled  a  calumet,  which  several  different 
Indians  took  from  him  and  handed  the  Osages  to  smoke. 
This  was  called  the  horse-smoke,  as  each  person  who  took 
the  pipe  from  the  chief  intended  to  present  the  Osages 
a  horse.  Mr.  Pike  and  Dr.  Robinson  afterward  accom- 
panied the  chief  to  his  lodge,  and  I  moved  on  with  the 
detachment  and  formed  our  camp  on  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  Republican  fork  of  the  Kansas  river,  on  a  commanding 
hill  which  had  been  selected  as  the  most  favorable  situa- 
tion for  making  observations,  though  very  inconvenient  on 
account  of  wood  and  water,  which  we  had  to  transport 
nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

At  a  council  held  some  few  days  after  our  arrival.  Lieu- 
tenant Pike  explained  to  them  the  difference  of  their  present 
situation  and  that  of  a  few  years  past ;  that  now  they  must 
look  up  to  the  president  of  the  United  States  as  their  great 
father ;  that  he  [Pike]  had  been  sent  by  him  [Jefferson]  to 
assure  them  of  his  good  wishes,  etc.;  that  he  perceived  a 
Spanish  flag  flying  at  the  council-lodge  door,  and  was  anxious 
to  exchange  one  of  their  great  father's  for  it ;  and  that  it 
was  our  intention  to  proceed  further  to  the  westward,  to 
examine  this,  our  newly  acquired  country.  To  this  a  singu- 
lar and  extraordinary  response  was  given — in  fact,  an  objec- 
tion started  in  direct  opposition  to  our  proceeding  further 
west ;  however,  they  gave  up  the  Spanish  flag,  and  we  had 
the  pleasure  to  see  the  American  standard  hoisted  in  its 
stead. 

At  the  same  council  Characterish  observed  that  a  large 
body  of  Spaniards  had  lately  been  at  his  village,  and  that 
they  promised  to  return  and  build  a  town  adjoining  his. 
The  Spanish  chief,  he  said,  mentioned  that  he  was  not  em- 
powered to  council  with  him  ;  that  he  came  merely  to  break 
the  road  for  his  master,  who  would  visit  him  in  the  spring 
with  a  large  army  ;  that  he  further  told  him  the  Americans 
were  a  little  people,  but  were  enterprising,  and  one  of  those 
days  would  stretch  themselves  even  to  his  town ;  that  they 


544  WILKINSON   EN   ROUTE   TO   THE  ARKANSAW. 

took  the  lands  of  Indians,  and  would  drive  off  their  game  ; 
"  and  how  very  truly,"  said  Characterish,  "  has  the  Spanish 
chieftain  spoken ! "  We  demanded  to  purchase  a  few 
horses,  which  was  prohibited,  and  the  friendly  communi- 
cation which  had  existed  between  the  town  and  our  camp 
was  stopped.  The  conduct  of  our  neighbors  assumed  a  mys- 
terious change  ;  our  guards  were  several  times  alarmed,  and 
finally  appearances  became  so  menacing  as  to  make  it  neces- 
sary for  us  to  be  on  our  guard  day  and  night. 

It  was  obvious  that  the  body  of  Spaniards,  who  preceded 
us  but  a  few  weeks  in  their  mission  to  this  village,  were  the 
regular  cavalry  and  infantry  of  the  province  of  Santa  Fee,  as 
they  had  formed  their  camps  in  regular  order ;  also  we  were 
informed  they  kept  regular  guards,  and  that  the  beats  of 
their  drum  were  uniform  morning  and  evening.  The  Span- 
ish leader,  further,  delivered  to  Characterish  a  grand  medal, 
two  mules,  and  a  commission  bearing  the  signature  of  the 
governor,  civil  and  military,  of  Santa  Fee.  He  also  had 
similar  marks  of  distinction  for  the  Grand  Pawnees,  the  Paw- 
nee Mahaws,  Mahaws  Proper,  Otos,  and  Kanses. 

On  the  6th  of  October  we  made  some  few  purchases  of 
miserable  horses  at  the  most  exorbitant  prices,  and  on  the 
7th,  unmoved  by  the  threats  of  the  chief  relative  to  our  pro- 
ceeding further  to  the  west,  we  marched  in  a  close  and  com- 
pact body  until  we  passed  their  village,  and  took  the  large 
beaten  Spanish  trace  for  the  Arkansaw  river.  We  passed 
the  following  day  [8th]  an  encampment  of  the  Spaniards, 
where  we  counted  6g  fires.  On  the  9th,  as  usual,  made  an 
easy  march  ;  and  about  noon,  when  we  halted  to  refresh  our- 
selves, were  overtaken  by  300  Pawnees,  on  their  way  to  the 
salines  of  the  Kanses  to  hunt  buffalo.  Their  every  act 
showed  a  strong  disposition  to  quarrel,  and  in  fact  they 
seemed  to  court  hostility ;  but,  finding  us  without  fear  and 
prepared,  to  a  man,  they  offered  no  outrage.  Having 
grazed  our  horses  an  hour,  we  parted  from  this  turbulent 
band,  slung  our  packs,  proceeded  to  Solomon's  Fork  of  the 
Kanses,  and  pitched  our  tents  on  an  old  encampment  of  the 


WILKINSON   ON  THE   SMOKY   HILL   RIVER.  545 

Spaniards  whose  trace  we  were  following,  as  we  found  the 
next  morning  [loth]  many  tent-pins  made  of  wood  different 
from  any  in  that  country.  At  mid-day  Lieutenant  Pike,  Dr. 
Robinson,  and  the  interpreter  Baroney  pushed  on  to  search 
for  water,  and  I  remained  with  the  troops.  I  pushed  on  as 
briskly  as  our  poor  half-famished  horses  would  permit,  but 
at  nightfall  could  discover  nothing  of  Mr.  Pike,  and  had  not 
a  tree  in  view.  This  induced  me  to  quicken  my  pace  ;  and, 
as  darkness  had  rendered  my  compass  useless,  I  coursed  by 
the  polar  star  ;  but  the  horizon  becoming  overcast,  I  halted 
on  a  naked  stony  prairie,  without  water  or  grass  for  our 
horses.  On  the  following  morning  [nth]  I  directed  my 
course  more  to  the  southward,  and  about  ten  o'clock  came 
to  the  [which  ?]  creek  and  encampment  of  Lieut.  Pike.  Late 
in  the  evening  of  the  same  day  [nth],  after  passing  over  a 
mountainous  tract  of  country,  we  reached  the  Grand  Saline, 
which  we  found  so  strongly  impregnated  as  to  render  unpal- 
atable corn  boiled  in  it.  On  the  12th,  after  a  distressing 
day's  march,  we  reached  the  Second  or  Small  Saline,  and 
on  the  following  day  [13th]  encamped  on  the  most  western 
[Smoky  Hill]  branch  of  the  Kanses  river.'' 

"VVe  were  detained,  on  the  morning  of  the  13th  [14th],  by 
a  small  rain ;  but  as  time  was  pressing,  we  marched  about 

'  There  are  material  discrepancies  between  Wilkinson's  and  Pike's  accounts 
of  tlie  nth,  I2th,  13th,  and  14th,  not  easy  to  reconcile,  even  supposing  the  two 
officers  were  separated  a  part  of  the  time.  Pike  comes  first  to  what  he  calls 
"  Little  Saline"  r.,  and  then  to  Great  Saline  on  the  llth  ;  Smoky  Hill  r., 
I2th  ;  7  m.  beyond  it  to  head  of  a  branch  of  it,  13th  ;  over  the  divide,  14th, 
to  Cow  cr. ;  and  is  lost  on  Walnut  cr.,  15th.  His  map  puts  a  camp-mark  on 
Little  Saline,  date  uncertain  ;  one  on  Great  Saline,  nth  ;  one  on  Smoky 
Hill  r.,  I2th  ;  and  none  for  13th,  14th,  or  15th.  Wilkinson  comes  first  to  Grand 
Saline,  nth  ;  "  Second  or  Small  Saline,"  12th  ;  Smoky  Hill,  13th  ;  over  divide 
and  on  to  a  branch  of  the  Arkansaw,  also  on  the  13th  ;  reaches  Arkansaw  14th, 
about  midnight.  We  have  here  a  day  miscounted  ;  reverse  sequence  of  the  two 
Saline  rivers  ;  and  several  camp-marks  misplaced  or  missing.  All  this  adds 
to  the  trouble  we  found  in  trying  to  follow  Pike's  itinerary,  and  I  do  not  see 
how  the  difficulty  can  be  adjusted.  What  seems  certain  is  :  I .  Great  Saline  r. 
reached  or  crossed  on  the  nth  ;  Smoky  Hill  r.  reached  or  crossed  on  the  12th  ; 
divide  crossed  and  camp  on  Cower.,  13th,  14th;  Wilkinson  on  the  Arkansaw 
at  midnight  of  the  15th,  when  Pike  and  Robinson  were  lost  on  Walnut  cr. 


546  WILKINSON   CAMPS   ON  THE   ARKANSAW. 

noon,  crossed  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Kanses  and  Arkansaw 
rivers,  and  halted  on  a  small  branch  of  the  latter.  For  sev- 
eral days  past  we  had  been  so  bewildered  by  buffalo  paths 
that  we  lost  the  Spanish  trace;  and  this  being  an  object  of 
moment,  we  resolved  to  make  search  for  it.  Accordingly, 
on  the  following  day  [15th]  at  noon,  Mr.  Pike  and  Dr.  Rob- 
inson struck  off  from  the  party  on  a  due  west  course,  and  I 
marched  the  detachment  for  a  copse  of  wood  which  we  could 
barely  discern  in  the  southwest,  and  reached  it  about  mid- 
night. At  day-break  I  was  awakened  by  my  old  and  faith- 
ful Osage,  who  informed  me  that  we  were  on  the  banks  of 
the  Arkansaw  river.  I  immediately  arose,  and  discovered 
my  tent  to  have  been  pitched  on  the  margin  of  a  water- 
course nearly  400  yards  wide,  with  banks  not  three  feet  high, 
and  a  stream  of  water  running  through  it  about  20  feet  in 
width  and  not  more  than  six  or  eight  inches  deep. 

I  remained  here  four  days  in  great  anxiety  and  suspense, 
as  neither  Mr.  Pike  nor  Dr.  Robinson  made  their  appear- 
ance, nor  could  be  found,  although  I  had  all  my  hunters  out 
in  search  of  them.  But  I  was  agreeably  surprised  on  the 
fifth '  day,  early  in  the  morning,  by  their  arrival.  It  appeared 
that  our  apprehensions  were  mutual,  as  they  expected  I  had 
been  cut  off,  and  I  believed  they  had  been  murdered. 

On  the  17th  it  commenced  raining  and  continued  for  sev- 
eral days,  during  which  time  the  river  rose  so  much  as  to 
fill  its  bed  from  bank  to  bank.  Lieutenant  Pike  having  de- 
termined that  I  should  descend  the  Arkansaw,  we  cut  down 
a  small  green  Cottonwood,  and  with  much  labor  split  out  a 

'Again  a  discrepancy  from  Pike.  According  to  his  diary  he  left  the  party  at 
5  p.  m.,  15th,  with  Dr.  Robinson  ;  was  lost,  i6thand  17th  ;  found  and  brought 
to  Wilkinson's  camp  on  the  Arkansaw,  i8th  ;  so  Wilkinson  could  have  remained 
but  two  days  in  suspense,  which  was  relieved  on  the  third  day.  As  Pike  him- 
self informs  us  that  he  "  corrected"  Wilkinson's  Report  for  the  time  they  were 
together,  yet  evidently  failed  to  make  it  fit  his  own,  we  may  be  excused  if  we 
do  not  succeed  in  the  attempt.  On  some  points  I  suspect  Wilkinson  came  nearest 
the  facts.  He  did  not  lose  his  notes  and  supplement  from  memory,  as  Pike  was 
forced  to  do  ;  he  was  not  hunting  for  the  Spanish  trail,  nor  for  buffalo  ;  and  he 
did  not  get  bewildered  on  Walnut  cr. 


WILKINSON   LEAVES  PIKE   AT   GREAT   BEND.  547 

canoe,  vvhicli  being  insufficient,  we  formed  a  second  of  buf- 
falo and  elk  skins. 

After  the  rain  had  ceased  the  weather  became  extremely 
cold,  and  on  the  27th,  in  the  evening,  a  severe  snow-storm 
commenced  and  continued  nearly  all  night.  In  the  morning 
[of  the  28th  °]  the  river  was  almost  choked  with  drifting  ice  ; 
but  the  sun  bursting  out  at  noon,  the  ice  disappeared,  and  I 
took  leave  of  Mr.  Pike,  who  marched  up  the  river  at  the  mo- 
ment I  embarked  on  board  my  newly  constructed  canoe. 
Unfortunately,  we  had  not  proceeded  more  than  100  yards 
when  my  boats  grounded,  and  the  men  were  obliged  to  drag 
them  through  sand  and  ice  five  miles,  to  a  copse  of  woods 
on  the  southwestern  bank.  I  here  hauled  up  my  canoe, 
formed  a  kind  of  cabin  of  it,  and  wrapped  myself  up  in  my 
buffalo-robe,  disheartened  and  dissatisfied  with  the  com- 
mencement of  my  voyage.  The  night  was  severely  cold, 
and  in  the  morning  [sQthJ  the  river  was  so  full  of  ice  as  to 
prevent  all  possibility  of  proceeding.  The  day  continued 
stormy,  with  snow  from  the  northwest. 

On  the  30th  the  river  was  frozen  up,  and  toward  evening 
the  water  had  run  off  and  left  the  bed  of  the  river  covered 
with  ice.  This  circumstance  determined  me  to  leave  my 
canoes  and  course  the  river  by  land.  Accordingly,  on  the 
31st  of  October,  after  having  thrown  away  all  my  clothing 
and  provision,  except  half  a  dozen  tin  cups  of  hard  corn  for 
each  man,  I  slung  my  rifle  on  my  shoulder,  and  with  my 
buffalo-robe  at  my  back  and  circumferentor  in  my  hand,  I 
recommenced  my  march  with  a  light  and  cheerful  heart.  My 
only  apprehension  was  that  I  might  meet  with  detached 
bands  of  the  Pawnees,  who,  I  am  confident,  would  have 
brought  me  and  my  five  men  [Ballenger,  Boley,  Bradley, 

'  Both  accounts  fortunately  agree  on  this  notable  date — the  day  on  which  Pike 
started  up  the  Arkansaw  and  Wilkinson  down  the  same  river.  The  distance 
made  by  the  latter  on  the  28th  sets  him  about  the  mouth  of  Antelope  cr.,  a 
small  run  that  makes  in  on  the  right  or  south  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  Wal- 
nut cr.  Here  he  remained  on  the  2()th  and  30th.  There  is  obviously  no 
possibility  of  following  him  closely  through  his  benumbed  voyage  ;  we  can  only 
check  his  course  at  the  most  notable  points. 


548  DESCENDING  THE   ARKANSAW. 

Huddleston,  Wilson]  to  action  ;  and  what  the  consequence 
of  this  would  have  been  is  very  obvious. 

On  the  1st,  2d,  and  3d  of  November  I  marched  over  high 
and  barren  hills  of  sand  ;  at  the  close  of  each  day  passed 
strongly  impregnated  salines,  and  perceived  the  shores  of 
the  river  to  be  completely  frosted  with  nitre.  The  face  of 
the  country,  as  I  descended,  looked  more  desolate  than 
above,  the  eye  being  scarcely  able  to  discern  a  tree  ;  and  if 
one  was  discovered,  it  proved  to  be  a  solitary  cottonwood, 
stinted  in  growth  by  the  sterility  of  the  soil.  The  evening 
of  the  3d  instant  I  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  with- 
out a  tree  or  even  a  shrub  in  view.  On  the  4th  we  experi- 
enced a  heavy  rain  ;  but  hunger  and  cold  pressed  me  forward. 
After  marching  10  miles  I  reached  a  small  tree,  where  I  re- 
mained in  a  continued  rain  for  two  days  [5th,  6th],  at  the 
expiration  of  which  time,  having  exhausted  my  fuel,  I  had 
again  [7th]  to  push  off  in  a  severe  storm,  and  formed  my 
camp  at  the  mouth  of  a  bold  running  stream  [probably  Cow 
creek'],  whose  northern  bank  was  skirted  by  a  chain  of  lofty 
ridges. 

On  the  8th,  in  the  morning,  it  having  cleared  up,  I  began 
my  march  early,  and  it  appeared  as  if  we  had  just  gotten 
into  the  region  of  game  ;  for  the  herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  goat 
[antelope],  and  deer  surpassed  credibility.  I  do  solemnly 
assert  that,  if  I  saw  one,  I  saw  more  than  9,000  buffaloes 
during  the  day's  march. 

On  the  loth,  in  the  evening,  after  a  severe  day's  march,  I 
encamped  on  the  bank  of  a  large  creek  [probably  I.ittlc 
Arkansaw'],  and  discovered  for  the  first  time  on  the  river  a 
species  of  wood  differing  from  the  cotton  tree.    I  assure  you 

7  and  8  vVilkinson's  "  bold  running  stream"  and  his  "  large  creek  "  .ire  prob- 
ably identifiable  by  the  above  data  ;  but  in  my  ignorance  of  these  details  I  can 
only  presume,  without  knowing,  that  he  means  Cow  cr.  and  the  Little  Arkan- 
saw,  these  being  the  two  principal  trilnitaries  of  the  Arkansaw  in  Kansas  below 
Great  Bend.  Cow  cr.  is  the  same  stream  whose  headwaters  Tike  and  Wilkin- 
son came  upon  before  they  reached  Great  Bend  :  see  note  '»,  p.  424  ;  '>"'  it  falls 
in  miich  lower,  at  Hutchinson,  Reno  Co.,  Kas.  The  Little  Arkansaw  is  that 
river   at   whose  mouth  is   Wichita,  seat  of  Sedgwick  Co.,   Kas.     Both   these 


NINNESCAH   OR  GOOD   RIVER.  549 

the  sight  was  more  agreeable  than  a  person  would  imagine ; 
it  was  like  meeting  with  an  old  acquaintance  from  whom  I 
had  been  separated  a  length  of  time.  I  even  began  to  think 
myself  approximating  civilized  settlements,  although  I  was 
just  entering  on  the  hunting-ground  of  the  Osages. 

The  buffaloes  and  goats  disappeared  on  the  I2th,  or 
rather  we  had  passed  their  range  and  entered  that  of  the 
deer  only.  Our  marches  were  through  rich  narrow  bottoms 
from  150  to  200  yards  wide. 

On  the  15th,  discovering  timber  sufificiently  large  to  form 
canoes,  I  felled  a  couple  of  trees,  and  commenced  splitting 
out.  I  would  have  proceeded  further  by  land,  but  as  my 
men  were  almost  worn  out  with  fatigue,  and  as  the  game 
grew  scarce,  I  conceived  it  most  advisable  to  rest  for  a  short 
time,  and  kill  my  winter's  store  of  meat.  TJiis  I  effected 
by  the  24th,  and  on  the  same  day  completed  the  canoes. 
On  the  25th  I  again  attempted  the  navigation  of  the  river, 
but  was  as  unfortunate  as  at  first  ;  for  my  boat  grounded, 
after  floating  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  the  men  were  con- 
sequently compelled  to  ply  with  their  shoulders  instead  of 
their  paddles. 

The  following  day  I  passed  the  Negracka  [read  Ninnes- 
cah "],  at  whose  mouth  commence  the  craggy  cliffs  which 
line  a  great  part  of  the  shores  of  the  Arkansaw. 

streams  course  very  obliquely  to  the  Arkansaw,  from  the  N.  W.,  and  fall  in  on 
the  left  bank. 

'  "Negracka  "  is  here  an  error  ;  Wilkinson  means  the  Ninnescah,  Nenescah, 
or  Nenesquaw  r.,  which  falls  in  from  the  W.  on  the  riglit  hand  ;  town  of  Whit- 
man, Sumner  Co.,  Kas.,  at  its  mouth.  This  is  the  only  inst.ance  I  have  ever 
known  of  the  misapplication  of  the  name  Negracka,  which  belongs  absolutely  to, 
and  was  long  the  current  name  of,  the  Salt  fork  of  the  Arkansaw  :  see  next 
note.  Thus,  we  read  in  Morse's  Gazetteer,  182 1,  p.  499  ;  "  Negracka  River 
.  .  .  falls  into  the  Arkansaw  from  the  N.  W.  It  is  100  yards  wide."  The 
Nenescah  is  a  smaller  stream  than  this.  It  is  lettered  "  Ne-ne-sesh,  or  Good 
Riv."  on  a  map  of  the  Indian  Terr.,  etc..  Engineer  Bureau,  War  Dept.,  Oct., 
1866.  Between  his  Negracka  or  the  Nenescah  r. ,  and  his  Neskalonska  or  the 
.Salt  fork  of  the  Arkansaw,  Wilkinson  passes  the  following  streams  ;  I.  Slate 
cr.,  from  the  N.  W.,  traversing  Sumner  Co.  obliquely  ;  2.  Walnut  cr.  (formerly 
Whitewater  r.),  from  the  N.,  with  an  average  course  nearly  due  S.,  through 
liutler  and  Cowley  cos.,  Kas.,  to  f.all  in  at  Arkansaw  City  ;  3.  Grouse  cr. ,  from 


S50       tuttasuggy's  grievances. 

On  the  28th  the  provision  canoe  overset,  and  I  lost  nearly 
all  my  stock  of  meat ;  this  accident  was  rendered  the  more 
distressing  by  an  almost  total  loss  of  my  ammunition,  which 
unfortunately  was  in  the  same  canoe. 

On  the  30th,  I  fell  in  with  a  band  of  Grand  Osages,  who 
were  in  pursuit  of  buffalo  cows ;  the  chief  of  the  party 
insisted  on  my  remaining  with  him  a  day,  and  sent  out  his 
young  men  to  hunt  for  me.  In  the  afternoon  two  Indians 
of  the  Osage  nation  joined  us,  with  a  horse  and  mule,  and 
brought  me  a  message  from  Tuttasuggy,  or  Wind,  who  it 
appeared  was  lying  very  ill,  about  20  miles  across  the 
prairie,  and  wished  to  see  me.  As  he  was  a  particular 
favorite  of  mine,  I  left  my  canoes  in  charge  of  the  men, 
and  passed  with  a  guide  to  the  chief's  temporary  village. 
I  found  him  extremely  unwell,  with  what  I  conceived  to  be 
a  dropsy,  for  his  abdomen  was  very  much  swollen.  He 
seemed  gratified  at  the  sight  of  me,  and  observed  that  he 
was  poor  and  pitiful,  for  the  reason  that  he  was  a  friend  to 
the  Americans.  He  said  that  Chouteau,  upon  arrival  at 
their  villages  last  fall,  had  treated  him  like  a  child  ;  had 
taken  on  to  Washington  his  younger  brother  Nezuma,  or 
Rain  that  Walks,  and  intended  making  him  [Nezuma]  chief 
of  the  nation  ;  that  Chouteau  told  him  he  [Tuttasuggy] 
was  a  "  bad  man,"  and  an  "  American  "  [i.  c,  a  friend  of 
the  Americans] ;  that  the  Spaniards  were  going  to  war  with 
America,  and  in  a  short  time  would  claim  all  this  country 
again ;  and  that  he  [Chouteau]  prevented  the  traders  from 
allowing  credit,  whereby  his  [Tuttasuggy's]  family  were 
much  distressed — as  I  clearly  perceived,  for  they  were  even 
destitute  of  a  whole  blanket. 

This  Nezuma,  whom  Chouteau  took  on  to  Washington 

the  N.  E.,  in  Cowley  Co.,  its  mouth  nearly  on  the  boundary  between  Kans.as 
and  Oklahoma  ;  4.  Chilockey  or  Chilocco  or.,  over  the  Oklahoma  line,  school 
reservation  there  ;  5.  Deer  cr.,  from  the  W.,  very  small  ;  6.  Beaver  cr.,  from 
the  N.  E.,  whose  mouth  is  at  the  Kaw  or  Kansas  Agency  ;  7.  South  Coon  cr., 
from  the  N.,but  falling  in  on  the  right,  very  small ;  S.  Turkey  cr.,  from  the 
N. ,  but  mouth  on  the  right,  between  Cross  and  Ponca  stations  of  the  Arkansaw 
branch  of  the  A.,  T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R. 


NEZUMA — MEDALS — SARCASM.  55  I 

last  fall  with  his  wife,  I  am  better  acquainted  with  than  per- 
haps Mr.  Chouteau  himself.  In  the  first  place,  I  marched 
with  him  from  St.  Louis  to  his  town,  and  he  started  with  us 
to  visit  the  Pawnees  ;  but  the  mean  and  pitiful  wretch  got 
alarmed  and  sneaked  off  without  even  advising  us  of  his 
departure.  He  has  no  more  command  in  the  village  than 
a  child,  is  no  warrior,  and  has  not  even  the  power  to  control 
the  will  of  a  single  man  of  his  nation.  Whether  this  youth 
is  entitled  to  a  grand  medal,  you  may  judge  from  the 
foregoing  statement.  Indeed,  Sir,  our  grand  medals  have 
become  so  common  that  they  do  not  carry  with  them  the 
respect  which  they  should.  I  recollect  that  one  of  the 
deputation  who  was  at  the  seat  of  government,  the  year 
before  last,  came  out  with  a  large  medal  and  an  intermediate- 
sized  one.  On  our  arrival  at  the  villages,  I  calculated  on 
his  acting  a  conspicuous  part ;  but,  to  my  utter  astonish- 
ment, he  was  not  permitted  to  sit  among  the  chiefs,  or  even 
the  warriors,  at  the  council. 

You  well  know.  Sir,  how  particular  the  Spaniards,  and 
the  British  especially,  have  been  in  their  distribution  of 
medals;  and  if  I  mistake  not,  an  Iowa  chief,  who  had  been 
to  the  scat  of  government  and  there  received  a  small  medal, 
returned  it  in  preference  to  giving  up  a  large  British  medal 
which  he  valued  more,  because  it  was  a  certain  distinguish- 
ing mark  of  a  chief. 

You  gave  to  Mr.  Pike  an  intermediate-sized  medal  for  one 
of  the  Pawnee  chiefs  ;  this  he  presented  to  Iskatappe,  who, 
having  remarked  the  medals  pendent  from  the  necks  of  the 
two  Pawnee  young  men  who  had  been  to  Washington, 
demanded  of  what  utility  it  would  be  to  him.  The  only 
Spanish  medals  in  the  Pawnee  nation  are  those  worn  by 
Characterish,  or  White  Wolf,  and  his  son. 

The  following  sarcastic  remark  was  made  by  the  son  of 
Bel  Oiseau,  a  chief  of  the  first  standing  among  the  Grand 
Osagcs  while  living,  who  unfortunately  was  killed  by  the 
Sacs  on  his  way  to  Washington  with  the  first  deputa- 
tion.    The    son    of  White   Hairs,   with  Shenga   Wassa,  or 


552      SYNONYMY    OF   SALT    FORK    AND    CIMARRON    RIVER. 

Beautiful  Bird  [Bel  Oiseau],  was  to  accompany  us  to  the 
Pawnee  village  ;  but  the  former  proved  recreant,  and  at  the 
crossing  of  Grand  [Neosho]  river  said  he  would  return  home. 
"Shame  on  you!"  said  the  latter;  "what  a  pity  it  is  so 
great  and  honorable  a  medal  should  be  disgraced  by  so 
mean  a  heart ! " 

You  will  pardon  this  digression,  but  I  would  wish  to  con- 
vince you,  from  what  I  have  seen  of  Indians,  how  very 
requisite  it  is  to  use  the  utmost  caution  in  the  distribution 
of  our  presents  and  marks  of  distinction. 

Before  I  set  out  to  visit  Tuttasuggy,  the  ice  had  com- 
menced drifting  in  large  sheets,  and  on  my  return  I  found 
it  running  from  shore  to  shore.  However,  I  pushed  off  and 
drifted  with  it. 

The  night  of  the  2d  of  December  was  intensely  cold,  but 
hunger  obliged  mc  to  proceed,  and  wc  fortunately  reached 
the  mouth  of  the  Ncskalonska  [Salt  fork  of  the  Arkansaw '"] 

'"  "  Neskalonska"  is  a  name  I  have  failed  to  find  elsewhere,  but  fortunately 
there  is  no  question  of  the  river  to  which  WilUinson  applies  it.  This  is  Salt 
fork,  the  third  largest  branch  of  the  Arkansaw  from  the  W. — the  Cimarron 
being  second,  and  the  Canadian  first  in  size.  Wilkinson's  "  Ncsk.alonska  "  and 
his  "  Grand  Saline  or  Newsewtonga"  are  respectively  Salt  fork  and  Cimarron  r. 
of  present  nomenclature.  Notwithstanding  their  great  size  and  importance, 
and  the  fact  that  they  fall  into  the  Arkansaw  about  a  degree  of  latitude  and 
of  longitude  apart,  they  have  been  completely  confused  by  geographers,  on  whose 
maps  almost  every  name  of  each  has  been  misapplied  to  the  other.  Salt  fork  is 
the  upper  and  smaller  one  of  the  two,  which  falls  in  through  the  Ponca  Reserva- 
tion, at  or  near  Ponca  P.  O.  and  Ponca  Agency,  in  Oklahoma.  Cimarron  r.  is 
the  lower  and  larger  one  of  the  two,  which  falls  in  through  the  Indian  Terri- 
tory at  a  point  on  the  boundary  of  Oklahoma.  Salt  fork  has  been  called  : 
Salt  fork  ;  Salt  r. ;  Salt  cr. ;  Saline  fork  ;  Saline  r. ;  Saline  cr. :  Red  fork  ;  Red 
r. ;  Little  Arkansaw  r.  (duplicating  a  name  :  see  note  ^,  p.  548) ;  Ncscutango  r. ; 
Negr.acka  r.  (its  usual  name  for  many  years) ;  Semerone,  Cimarone,  Cimmaron, 
Cimarron  r. — the  last  four  variants  of  the  same  word,  and  like  Nescutango, 
properly  belonging  only  to  the  next,  viz.:  Cimarron  r.  This  has  been  called  : 
Red  fork  ;  Saline  r. ;  Grand  Saline  r. ;  Jefferson  r.;  Nesuketong,  Nesuketonga, 
Nesuhetonga,  Nescutanga,  Newsewketonga  r. ;  Cimmaron,  Cimarron  r.  On 
analyzing  the  comparative  applicability  of  these  names,  I  find  that  "  Salt"  or 
"  S.aline  "  belongs  most  properly  to  the  upper  and  smaller  stream,  for  which  we 
now  use  it,  and  when  applied  to  tlie  lower  is  usually  qualified  .as  Grand  Saline  ; 
that  "  Red  "    is  misapplied  to  both   indifferently  ;    that  "  Little  Ark.ansas  "  is 


SYNONYMY   OF  SALT  FORK   AND   CIMARRON   RIVER.      553 

river  without  accident  or  injury,  excepting  that  one  of  my 
men  got  frosted.  This  day  we  passed  two  salines  which 
enter  on  the  southwestern  side. 

The  severity  of  the  weather  increased,  and  the  river  froze 
over  on  the  morning  of  the  3d.  This  circumstance  placed 
me  in  a  situation  truly  distressing,  as  my  men  were  almost 

only  applied  to  the  upper,  and  "Jefferson"  only  to  the  lower  stream  ;  that 
"  Negracka"  is  absolutely  the  name  of  the  upper  one  alone  ;  that  "  Nesuke- 
tonga"and  its  variants  are  almost  entirely  confined  to  the  lower  one;  and 
finally  that  "  Cimarron  "  in  its  variations  is  equally  common  to  both,  though  in 
present  usage  it  is  absolutely  restricted  to  the  lower  one. 

These  data  rest  upon  the  examination  of  a  large  lot  of  old  maps  with 
special  reference  to  the  points  involved,  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Robert  F. 
Thompson  of  the  Indian  Bureau  at  Washington.  These  maps  show  a  curious 
reversal  in  the  size  of  the  two  rivers,  the  earlier  and  poorer  ones  making  the 
upper  stream  the  larger  of  the  two,  and  conversely.  F'urthermore,  the  tendency 
has  always  been  to  call  the  larger  one  "  Cim.arron  "  and  "Red,"  no  matter 
which  its  position.  Aside  from  this,  the  most  sharply  contrasted  pairs  of 
names  are  "Salt"  and  "  Negracka  "  for  the  upper  stream,  and  "  Red"  and 
"  Nesuketonga  "  for  the  lower  one.  Thus,  to  be  more  specific  :  i.  John  Melish's 
map  of  the  U.  S.,  engr.  by  J.  Vallance  and  H.  S.  Tanner,  pub.  PhiKida.,  1R20, 
has  Negracka,  upper,  larger ;  Jefferson,  lower,  sm.aller.  2.  H.  S.  Tanner's 
map  of  N.  Amer.,  in  the  New  American  Atlas,  pub.  Philada.,  1823,  map  dated 
1822,  has  Negracka  or  Red  r.,  upper,  larger  ;  .<ind  Nesuhetonga  or  Gr.  Saline, 
lower,  smaller.  3.  The  American  Atlas,  pub.  Thilada.,  H.  C.  C.irey  and  I. 
Lea,  1823,  has  a  map  of  the  U.  S.,  with  Negracka  or  Red  Fork,  upper,  larger, 
and  Grand  Saline,  lower,  smaller ;  also,  a  map  of  the  Arkansaw,  etc.,  drawn  liy 
Major  S.  H.  Long,  with  Negracka  or  Red  Fork,  upper,  larger  ;  and  Nesuke- 
tonga or  Grand  S.iline,  lower,  smaller;  also,  a  map  of  Mexico,  etc.,  based  on 
Humboldt,  etc.,  by  J.  Finlayson,  with  these  very  same  names.  4.  A.  Finlay's 
map  of  North  America,  pub.  Philada.,  1S26,  has  upper  larger  stream  Negracka 
or  Semerone  R. ;  lower  one,  very  small.  Grand  Saline.  5.  A  map  of  Mexico  in 
Anthony  Finlay's  AtLas,  pub.  Philada,,  1830,  has  Negracka,  upper  and  larger; 
the  lower  smaller  one  unnamed.  6.  A  map  of  North  America  in  Tanner's 
Atlas,  pub.  Philada.,  Carey  and  Hart,  1843,  has  Negracka,  upper  and  larger; 
Gr.  Saline,  lower  and  smaller  ;  the  map  of  Mexico  and  Guatemala,  in  this  atlas, 
represents  the  two  as  Red  Br.  and  Saline.  7.  On  Josiah  Gregg's  map  of  the 
Indian  Territory,  etc.,  in  Morse's  N.  A.  Atlas,  pub.  N.  Y.,  Harper  and  Rrothers, 
1844,  also  accompanying  Gregg's  Commerce  of  the  Prairies,  the  two  rivers  are 
represented  of  about  the  same  size,  the  upper  one  being  lettered  Cimarron  R. 
and  Salt  Fork  ;  the  lower,  Red  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  R.  This  is  a  notably 
good  map  for  its  date,  and  in  the  matter  now  under  examination  may  be  taken 
as  the  turning-point  to  a  better  understanding  of  the  facts  in  the  case.  8.  On 
a  map  of  Texas,  etc.,  pub.  I'hil.ada.,  S.  Augustus  Mitchell,  1846,  the  upper  and 


554      SYNONYMY   OF   SALT   FORK   AND   CIMARRON   RIVER. 

naked  ;  the  tatters  which  covered  them  were  comfortless, 
and  my  ammunition  was  nearly  exhausted.  The  men 
solicited  me  to  hut,  but  I  was  resolved  by  perseverance  and 
exertion  to  overcome,  if  in  my  power,  the  obstacles  opposed 
to  my  progress. 

The  Neskalonska  is  about  120  yards  wide,  shoal  and  nar- 
row at  its  mouth,  but  deepens  and  spreads  after  you   turn 

still  larger  river  appears  as  Cimarone  or  Salt  Fork  ;  the  lower,  as  Red  Fork. 
9.  On  a  map  of  Mexico  issued  by  H.  S.  Tanner,  3d  ed.,  1846,  the  upper, 
larger  stream  is  given  as  Semerone,  Negracka,  or  Red  River  ;  the  lower,  as 
Saline.  10.  On  a  map  of  the  U.  S.  in  Harper's  Statistical  Gazetteer  of  the  World, 
by  J.  Calvin  Smith,  pub.  N.  Y.,  Harper  and  Brothers,  1855,  the  upper  stream 
is  called  Cimarron  or  Salt  Fork;  the  lower.  Red  Fork  of  Arkansas.  11. 
Emory's  beautiful  map  of  the  Western  U.  S.,  pub.  1857-58,  has  Salt  Fork 
for  the  upper  and  much  smaller  stream,  and  Red  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  for 
the  other.  I2.  A  map  of  Kansas,  etc.,  in  Mitchell's  Atlas  of  1861,  represents  the 
upper  stream  as  Cimarron  River,  the  lower  as  Red  Fork  of  the  Arkansas. 
13.  The  map  of  N.  A.  in  Johnston's  Family  Atlas,  pub.  N.  Y.,  Johnston  and 
Ward,  1864,  shows  the  two  in  a  peculiar  manner,  and  calls  the  upper  one 
Semerone,  the  lower  one  Nesuketong.  14.  The  Office  of  Indian  Affairs  has 
on  file  a  very  fine  m.ap  of  the  Indian  Territory,  drawn  by  Ado  Hunnius  from 
the  reconnoissance  of  Lieutenant  J.  C.  Woodruff  in  1852,  and  from  a  War 
Dept.  map  of  1866,  on  which  the  upper  and  now  smaller  river  appears  as  Salt 
Creek  or  Nescutanga,  or  Salt  Fork  of  the  Arkansas,  and  the  much  larger  lower 
one  as  Cimarron  River  or  Red  Fork  of  the  Arkansas.  15.  The  War  Dept. 
map  of  the  Indian  Territory,  Engineer  Bureau,  Oct.,  1866,  letters  for  the 
smaller  upper  stream  Nescutango  R.  and  Little  Arkansas  R. ;  for  the  other, 
Cimarron  River  and  Red  Fork  of  Arkansas  River.  16.  A  manuscript  map  by 
John  C.  McCoy,  on  file  in  the  Office  of  Indian  Affairs,  has  Red  Fork  for  the 
upper,  and  Ne  se  ke  tonga  for  the  lower  one.  17.  On  a  cabinet  map  of  the 
U.  S.,  pub.  Chicago,  Rufus  Blanchard,  1868,  the  upper  one  is  called  Little 
Arkansas  River,  the  lower  one  being  styled  Red  P'ork  of  Arkansas  River. 
18.  A  map  of  the  U.  S.  in  Mitchell's  Atlas  of  1874  shows  the  upper  and  larger 
stream  as  Cimmaron  or  Salt  Fork,  and  the  smaller  lower  one  as  Red  Fork  ; 
the  map  of  Texas  in  the  same  atlas  shows  only  the  latter,  given  as  Red  Fork 
of  Arkansas.  19.  The  General  Land  Office  map  of  the  Indian  Territory,  1879, 
letters  for  the  upper  river  .Salt  Fork  of  Arkansas  R.,  and  for  the  other  Red  Fork 
of  the  Arkansas  or  Cimarron  River  ;  the  same  Office's  map  of  Oklahoma,  1894, 
has  Salt  Fork  of  Arkansas  River  for  the  one,  .and  Cimarron  River  for  the  other. 
The  consensus  of  the  above,  aside  from  the  eccentricities  and  errors  involved, 
is  reducible  to  S.ilt  fork  or  Negracka  r.  for  the  upper  one,  and  Red  fork, 
Nesuketonga,  or  Cimarron  r.  for  the  other  one,  of  these  two  important  streams. 
One  of  the  curiosities  in  the  matter  is  the  constancy  of  the  form  of  the  word 
Negracka,  as  well  as  its  restriction  to  a  single  river. 


THE  CIMARRON   RIVER  PASSED.  555 

the  first  point.  On  this  stream  the  Grand  and  Little  Osages 
form  their  temporary  fall  hunting-camps,  and  take  their 
peltries.  When  the  severity  of  winter  sets  in,  the  Grand 
Osages  retire  to  Grosse  Isle,  on  the  Verdigrise  or  Waseti- 
hoge  ;"  and  the  Little  Osages  to  one  of  its  small  branches 
called  Possitonga,  where  they  remain  during  the  hard 
weather,  and  thence  return  to  their  towns  on  the  Neska  or 
[Little]  Osage  river. 

On  the  6th  the  ice  began  to  drift,  and  I  immediately 
pushed  off  with  it ;  but  as  my  evil  stars  would  have  it,  my 
boats  again  grounded.  Being  in  the  middle  of  the  river, 
my  only  alternative  was  to  get  out  and  drag  them  along  for 
several  miles,  when  we  halted  to  warm  our  benumbed  feet 
and  hands.  The  next  day  several  large  cakes  of  ice  had 
blocked  up  the  river,  and  we  had  to  cut  our  way  through 
them  with  axes  ;  the  boats  as  usual  grounded,  and  the  men, 
bare-legged  and  bare-footed,  were  obliged  to  leap  into  the 
water.  This  happened  so  frequently  that  two  more  of 
them  got  badly  frosted. 

On  the  8th  one  of  my  canoes  was  driven  on  a  bank  of  ice 
during  a  snow-storm,  and  did  not  overtake  me  until  the 
evening  of  the  gth,  in  so  shattered  a  condition  that  she  could 
hardly  be  kept  above  water,  and  the  poor  fellows  who  were 
in  her  were  almost  frozen. 

On  the  lOth,  about  noon,  I  passed  the  Grand  Saline  or 
Newsewketonga  [Cimarron   river'"],  which   is   of  a  reddish 

"  The  Verdigris,  Vermilion,  or  Wasetihoge  r.  has  been  already  noticed,  when 
Pike's  party  reached  its  headwaters  in  Kansas  :  see  note  '*,  p.  400.  The  present 
nomenclature  of  its  principal  branches  is  ;  I.  Hominy  cr.,  in  the  Osage  and 
Cherokee  countries  of  the  Indian  Territory,  with  a  main  fork.  Bird  cr.,  site  of 
the  Osage  Agency  ;  2.  Caney  r.,  or  the  Little  Verdigris,  falling  in  by  the  Blue 
Mounds  in  the  Cherokee  country,  and  formed  of  two  main  forks  known  as  Big 
and  Little  Caney  creeks,  both  of  which  head  in  Kansas  ;  3.  Elk  r.,  heading  in 
the  Kansan  county  of  that  name,  and  falling  in  above  Independence,  in  Mont- 
gomery Co.,  Kas. ;  4.  Fall  r.,  one  of  the  terminal  forks  of  the  Verdigris,  and  on 
which  is  Fredonia,  Wilson  Co. 

'*  See  note  '"  for  synonymy.  The  Cimarron  is  a  very  large  river,  which 
drains  from  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  great  mountains  in  New  Mexico  and  runs 
thence  through  southwestern  portions  of  Kansas,  loops  into  Oklahoma  Territory 


556  CONFERENCE   WITH   CASHESEGRA. 

color,  though  its  water  is  very  clear.  About  two  clays' 
march  up  this  river,  you  find  the  prairie  grass  on  the  S.  W. 
side  incrusted  with  salt,  and  on  the  N.  E.  bank,  fresh-water 
springs,  and  lakes  abounding  with  fish.  This  salt  the 
Arkansaw  Osages  obtain  by  scraping  it  off  the  prairie  with 
a  turkey's  wing  into  a  wooden  trencher.  The  river  does 
not  derive  its  name  from  its  saline  properties,  but  from  the 
quantities  that  may  always  be  found  on  its  banks,  and  is  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year  potable. 

On  the  20th,  in  the  afternoon,  we  passed  another  Saline 
[river"]  with  water  equally  as  red  as  that  of  the  Newsewke- 
tonga,  and  more  strongly  impregnated  with  salt. 

After  encountering  every  hardship  to  which  a  voyage  is 
subject  in  small  canoes  at  so  inclement  a  season  of  the  year, 
I  arrived  on  the  23d  inst.,  in  a  storm  of  hail  and  snow,  at 
the  wintering-camp  of  Cashesegra  or  Big  Track,  [or  Big 
Foot]  chief  of  the  Osages  who  reside  on  Verdigrise  river. 

On  the  following  day  I  gave  him  your  talk  and  received 
his  reply,  which  it  is  unnecessary  to  recount  fully,  as  it  was 
merely  a  description  of  his  poverty  and  miserable  situation. 
He  however  said  that  he  had  been  informed  the  United 
States  intended  to  erect  factories  on  the  Osage  river,  and 
that  he  was  anxious  to  have  one  near  to  his  own  village ; 
and  for  that  purpose  he  was  willing  to  give  the  United 
States  the  tract  of  country  lying  between  the  Verdigrise 
and  Grand  [Neosho]  rivers.     A  factory,  with  a  garrison  of 

from  Meade  Co.,  Kas.,  loops  back  into  Kansas  in  Clarice  Co.,  and  ihuncu 
through  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Comanclie  Co.  into  Oklahoma  again,  traverses  this 
Territory,  and  joins  the  Arkansaw  between  the  Osage  and  Creek  countries,  at 
a  certain  point  on  the  line  between  Oklahoma  and  the  Indian  Territory. 

In  passing  from  Salt  fork  to  the  Cimarron,  we  have  first,  Red  or  Red  Rock 
or.,  a  sizable  stream  from  the  W.  or  right  ;  places  called  Redrock  and  Otoe  on 
it  ;  second,  Buck  cr. ,  left,  from  the  N.,  once  known  as  Suicide  cr. ;  third,  Gray 
Horse  cr.,  small,  left,  from  the  N.  E.;  fourth,  Black  Bear  cr.,  large,  from  the 
\V.,  on  the  right.  The  Pawnee  Agency  is  on  this  stream,  which  some  maps 
wrongly  run  into  the  Cimarron  instead  of  the  Arkansaw. 

"  This  is  not  easily  determined,  as  there  are  several  small  streams  of  similar 
character  between  the  Cimarron  and  the  Verdigris,  among  them  those  called 
Polecat,  .Snake,  Cane,  and  Caney  (or  Pocan)  creeks. 


VERMILION  AND   NEOSHO   RIVERS   PASSED.  557 

troops  stationed  there,  would  answer  the  double  purpose  of 
keeping  in  order  those  Indians,  who  are  the  most  desperate 
and  profligate  part  of  the  whole  nation,  more  fully  impress- 
ing them  with  an  idea  of  our  consequence,  and  gaining 
more  firmly  their  friendship.  It  also  would  tend  to  pre- 
serve harmony  among  the  Chactaws,  Creeks,  Cherokees,  and 
Osages  of  the  three  different  villages,  who  are  in  a  constant 
state  of  warfare ;  further,  it  would  prevent  the  Osages  mak- 
ing excursions  into  the  country  of  the  poor  and  peaceably 
disposed  Caddoes,  and  might  have  some  effect  in  confining 
the  Spaniards  to  their  own  territorial  limits. 

On  the  27th  I  passed  the  mouths  of  the  Verdigrise  and 
Grand  [Neosho "]  rivers,  the  former  being  about  100  and 
the  latter  130  yards  wide;  those  streams  enter  within  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  of  each  other.  Below  the  mouth  of  Grand 
river  commence  the  rapids,  which  continue  for  several 
hundred  miles  down  the  Arkansaw. 

About  58  or  60  miles  up  the  Verdigrise  is  situate  the 
Osage  village.'"  This  band,  some  four  or  five  years  since, 
were  led  by  the  chief  Cashesegra  [Big  Foot]  to  the  waters 
of  the  Arkansaw,  at  the  request  of  Pierre  Chouteau,  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  their  tiade,  the  exclusive  trade  of  the 
Osage  river  having  at  that  time  been  purchased  from  the 
Spanish  governor  by  Manuel  Lisa  of  St.  Louis.  But  though 
Cashesegra  be  the  nominal  leader,  Clermont,  or  the  Builder 
of  Towns,  is  the  greatest  warrior  and  most  influential  man, 
now  more  firmly  attached  to  the  interests  of  the  Americans 
than   any   other   chief    of   the    nation.     He    is   the    lawful 

'*  For  these  two  rivers,  see  back,  notes  '',  '',  jip.  397,  398,  and  following  to 
p.  402  ;  also,  note  ",  p.  555. 

"  This  was  the  so-called  "  Arkansaw  band"  of  Osages,  the  circumstances  of 
whose  secession  from  the  Osage  village  on  tlie  Little  Osage  r.  are  mentioned 
by  Pike  elsewhc.e,  as  well  as  by  Wilkinson  in  the  present  instance.  The 
faction  seems  to  have  been  fomented  by  Chouteau  through  jealousy  of  Lisa's 
exclusive  right  to  trade  on  the  Osage  r.  The  affair  must  have  been  notorious 
at  the  time,  as  various  authors  speak  of  the  settlement  of  this  Osage  band  on  the 
Verdigris  or,  as  it  was  also  called,  Vermilion  r.  Among  them  are  Lewis  and 
Clark  :  see  ed.  1893,  p.  12. 


558  ILLINOIS  AND   CANADIAN   RIVERS   PASSED. 

sovereign  of  the  Grand  Osages  ;  but  his  hereditary  right 
was  usurped  by  Pahuska  or  White  Hair  [Chcveux  Blancs], 
while  Clermont  was  yet  an  infant.  White  Hair,  in  fact,  is 
a  chief  of  Chouteau's  creating,  as  well  as  Cashesegra  ;  and 
neither  has  the  power  or  disposition  to  restrain  their  young 
men  from  the  perpetration  of  an  improper  act,  fearing  lest 
they  should  render  themselves  unpopular. 

On  the  29th  I  passed  a  fall  [Webber's]  of  near  seven  feet 
perpendicular.  At  evening  I  was  visited  by  a  scout  from  an 
Osage  war  party,  and  received  from  them  a  man  by  the  name 
of  M'Farlane,  who  had  been  trapping  up  the  Pottoe  [Poteau]. 
We  passed  about  noon  this  day  the  mouths  of  the  river  des 
Illinois,"  which  enters  on  the  N.  E.  side,  and  of  the  Cana- 
dian "  river,  which  puts  in  from  the  S.  W.  The  latter  river 
is  the  main  branch  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  is  equally  large. 

"  This  Illinois  r.,  still  so  called,  heads  in  Washington  and  Benton  cos.,  Ark., 
crosses  the  W.  border  of  the  State  N.  of  36°,  and  runs  through  the  Cherokee 
country  in  the  Indian  Territory,  to  fall  into  the  Arkansaw  a  short  distance 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Canadian.  Between  the  Illinois  and  Canadian  rivers, 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  Arkansaw,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Elk  cr.,  is  a  place 
called  Webber's  Falls,  with  reference  to  the  falls  of  which  Wilkinson  speaks. 

"  The  main  fork  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  scarcely  a  lesser  stream.  This  is  one 
of  the  six  or  seven  large  rivers  which  have  shared  the  name  "  Red  "  or  its 
equivalent,  though  less  frequently  than  some  of  the  others.  This  is  because  the 
Mexicans  called  it  Rio  Colorado  at  its  headwaters,  which  they  knew  very  well  ; 
and  because,  down  to  1820,  these  were  supposed  to  be  those  of  the  true  "  Red 
river  of  Natchitoches,"  a  branch  of  the  Mississippi.  The  discovery  that  this 
Rio  Colorado  or  Red  r.  was  the  source  of  the  Canadian  was  made  by  Major 
Long,  who  followed  it  down,  thinking  he  was  on  the  Red  r.  of  Natchitoches, 
and  was  not  undeceived  till  he  found  its  confluence  with  the  Arkansaw.  This 
is  noted  in  1S44  by  Gregg,  and  in  1S55  by  Warren  ;  it  was  the  third  attempt 
made  by  the  United  States  Government  to  discover  the  sources  of  the  true  Red 
r..  Captain  Sparkshaving  been  first,  in  1S06,  and  Pike  second.  "  Canadian," as 
applied  to  the  main  fork  of  the  Arkansaw,  has  no  more  to  do  with  the  Dominion 
of  Canada  in  history  or  politics  than  it  has  in  geography,  and  many  have  won- 
dered how  this  river  came  to  be  called  the  Canadian.  The  word  is  from  the 
Spanish  Rio  Canada,  or  Rio  Canadiano,  through  such  a  form  as  Rio  Canadian, 
whence  directly  "Canadian"  r.,  meaning  "Canon"  r.,  and  referring  to  the 
way  in  which  the  stream  is  boxed  up  or  shut  in  by  precipitous  walls  near  its 
headwaters.  These  drain  from  E.  slopes  of  the  Raton  and  other  great  moun- 
tains in  New  Mexico  E.  of  Taos  and  Santa  Fe,  by  such  streams  as  the  Ver- 
mijo  (Bennejo),  Little  Cimarron,  I'ounel  or  I'oni,  Rayado,  and  Ocate,  which  join 


POTEAU   RIVER — KWAPA   INDIANS.  559 

On  the  31st  I  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Pottoe,"  a  deep 
though  narrow  stream  which  puts  in  on  the  S.  W.,  and  also 
the  river  au  Milheu  [Miheu"],  that  enters  from  the  N.  E. 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  January  I  reached  the  planta- 
tion of  a  Mr.  Labomme,  and  was  more  inhospitably  treated 
than  by  the  savages  themselves. 

On  the  8th  I  passed  the  two  upper  Arkansaw  or  Quapaw  " 

above  the  Canada,  and  the  Moro,  which  falls  in  further  down.  Leaving  New 
Mexico  the  great  river  courses  eastward  through  Texas,  enters  Oklahoma  at 
long.  100'  W.  (near  lat.  36°  N.,  vicinity  of  Antelope  hills),  traverses  this  terri- 
tory to  about  long.  98°  W. ,  separates  it  from  the  Indian  Territory  to  beyond 
long.  97"  W. ,  and  runs  in  the  latter  to  join  the  Arkansaw  near  long.  95°  W.,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Webber's  falls,  at  a  point  on  the  boundary  between  the  Cherokee 
and  Chocktaw  countries,  about  40  m.  E.  of  the  Arkansaw  State  line.  Its  prin- 
cipal branch  is  the  North  fork,  which  as  far  as  it  goes  is  a  parallel  stream,  skirt- 
ing the  Canadian  for  hundreds  of  miles  at  no  great  distance  northward  of  the 
main  stream. 

"  Poteau  or  Potteau  r.  marks  a  notable  point  in  this  barren  itinerary,  as  it 
falls  in  on  the  boundary  between  the  Indian  Territory  and  Arkansas,  immedi- 
ately above  the  important  and  well-known  Fort  Smith.  This  is  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Arkansaw,  in  Sebastian  Co.,  which  the  river  divides  from 
Crawford  Co.  Poteau  is  F.  for  post,  and  the  name  may  refer  to  some  early 
landmark  of  that  sort :  see  note  '*,  p.  378.  Small  tributaries  of  the  Arkansaw 
between  the  Canadian  and  Poteau  rivers  are  Vine  cr. ,  left ;  Sans  Bois  and  Cache 
creeks,  right ;  Sallison  and  Skin  creeks,  left — in  the  order  here  named. 

"  Wilkinson's  "river  au  Millieu  "  is  apparently  tliat  now  called  Lee  or  Lee's 
or.,  which  makes  in  between  Fort  Smith  and  Van  Buren,  seat  of  Crawford  Co. 
It  courses  mostly  in  Arkansaw,  but  loops  into  and  out  of  the  Indian  Territory. 
Four  of  its  branches  are  called  Cove,  Brushy,  Webber,  and  Garrison.  The  F. 
phrase  Riviere  au  Milieu,  equivalent  to  "  Middle"  or  "  Half-way "r.,  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  much  used  anywhere  in  the  U.  S. ,  though  it  is  a  still  current 
voyageurs'  designation  of  several  different  streams  in  British  America. 

™  P'or  the  Quapaw  or  Kwapa  Indians,  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  1893,  pp.  12  and 
98,  notes.  Together  with  the  Kansas,  Osages,  Omahas,  and  Poncas,  they  con- 
stitute a  division  of  the  Siouan  stock  called  Dhegiha — a  word  equivalent  to 
"autochthon."  Dr.  Sibley  gives  the  names  of  the  three  Kwapa  villages  as 
Tavvanima,  Oufotu,  and  Ocapa  :  London  ed.  1807,  p.  53.  Quapaw,  Kwapa, 
Ocapa,  Oguoppa,  Quappa,  Kappa,  Ukaqpa,  etc.,  are  all  forms  of  their  name 
of  themselves,  meaning  "  those  who  went  down  river."  Our  knowledge  of  the 
village  is  traced  back  to  Joliet  and  Marquette,  July,  1673  ;  the  name  Akansa, 
adopted  in  some  form  by  the  French,  is  what  the  Kwapas  were  called  by  the 
Illinois  Indians,  and  the  origin  of  our  Arkansas  or  Arkansaw.  The  form 
Acanza  is  found  on  Vaugondy's  map,  1783.  About  230  Kwapas  still  live  in 
Oklahoma  and  the  Indian  Territory. 


560  KWAI'A   INDIANS — ARKANSAS   POST. 

villages,  and  on  the  9th,  after  passing  the  lower  Quapaw 
town,  and  a  settlement  of  Chactaws,  arrived  at  the  post  of 
Arkansaw."' 

The  surface  of  the  country  between  the  Osage  towns  and 
the  Pawnee  village  is  generally  broken  and  naked  ;  the  soil 
sterile,  and  abounding  with  flint  and  lime  stones.  As  you 
approach  the  waters  of  the  Kanses,  it  becomes  hilly  and 
sandy.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  country  between  the 
Pawnee  village  and  the  Arkansaw ;  but  after  passing  the 
ridge  which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Kanses  and  Arkan- 
saw, the  surface  becomes  more  regular  and  less  stony. 

Below  the  Verdigrise  the  shores  of  the  Arkansaw  are  gen- 

"  Arkansas  Post  perpetuates  the  name  of  the  oldest  establishment  of  whites 
in  the  lower  Mississippi  valley.  The  present  village  is  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Arkansaw  r.,  in  the  county  and  State  of  Arkansas,  73  m.  S.  E.  of  Little  Kock, 
the  capital.  Though  never  a  locality  of  much  importance,  its  place  in  history 
is  secure  and  permanent.  Early  in  the  year  1685,  Henri  de  Tonti,  the  famous 
trusty  lieutenant  of  La  Salle,  was  reinstated  in  command  of  Fort  St.  Louis  of 
the  Illinois,  with  titles  of  captain  and  governor,  by  order  of  the  French  king 
Louis  XIV.  Tonti  learned  that  La  Salle  was  in  trouble  somewhere  in  New 
Spain  (Texas),  and  organized  an  expedition  for  his  relief.  On  Feb.  i6th,  16S6, 
he  left  Fort  St.  Louis,  with  30  Frenchmen  and  5  Indians,  descended  the  Illi- 
nois and  Miss,  rivers  to  the  Gulf,  and  scoured  the  coast  for  miles,  but  saw  no 
sign  of  his  great  chief.  He  wrote  a  letter  for  La  Salle,  which  he  committed  to 
the  care  of  a  chief  of  the  Quinipissas  for  delivery,  should  opportunity  offer,  and 
retraced  his  way  up  the  Miss.  r.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansaw,  which  latter 
river  he  ascended  to  the  village  of  the  Arkensa  Indians.  There,  on  lands 
which  La  Salle  had  already  granted  him,  he  stationed  six  of  his  men,  who  vol- 
unteered to  remain  in  hopes  of  hearing  from  the  distant  commander.  This  was 
the  origin  of  the  Poste  aux  Arkansas.  La  Salle  was  murdered  by  the  traitor 
Duhaut,  one  of  several  ruffians  among  his  own  men  who  conspired  to  his 
foul  assassination,  some  say  on  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Brazos,  at  a  spot 
which  has  been  supposed  to  be  perhaps  40-50  m.  N.  of  present  town  of  Wash- 
ington, Tex.;  the  date  is  Mar.  igth  or  20th,  1687.  Seven  of  the  survivors  of 
La  Salle's  ill-starred  colony  at  Fort  St.  Louis  of  Texas,  reached  Arkansas 
Post  after  a  journey  computed  at  the  time  to  have  been  250  leagues,  in  the 
summer  of  1687,  and  found  Couture  and  De  Launay,  two  of  the  six  whom 
Tonti  had  stationed  there  the  year  before.  (See  Wallace,  Hist.  111.  and  La., 
etc..  1893.)  This  Tonti  (or  Tonty),  b.  about  1650,  died  at  Mobile,  1704,  was 
the  son  of  Lorenzo  Tonti,  who  devised  the  Tontine  scheme  or  policy  of  life 
insurance.  Arkansas  Post  was  the  scene  of  Laclede's  death,  June  20th,  1778. 
The  place  was  taken  by  the  Unionists  from  the  Confederates,  Jan.  nth,  1S63. 


END   OF   WILKINSON'S   REPORT.  561 

erally  lined  with  cane  {^Arundinaria  macrosperma\  and 
consequently  rich  bottoms.  I  was  informed  by  the  Indians 
that  the  country  to  the  northwest  of  the  Osage  village 
abounds  with  valuable  lead  mines,  but  I  could  make  no  dis- 
covery of  any  body  of  mineral. 

The  survey  from  the  Arkansavv  post  to  the  Mississippi  I 
fear  is  not  correct,  as  I  was  so  ill  when  I  descended  that 
part  of  the  river  as  to  be  confined  to  my  blanket. 

The  chart  which  accompanies  this  report,  of  the  course  of 
the  Arkansaw,  I  hope  will  prove  satisfactory,  not  only  to 
yourself,  but  the  president. 

I  have  the  honor  to  subscribe  myself, 
Your  faithful  and  obliged, 

Humble  and  obedient  servant, 
[Signed]    James  B.  Wilkinson, 
1st  Lieut.  2d  U.  S.  Regt.  of  Infantry. 
His  Excellency 
General  James  Wilkinson, 

Commander-in-Chief  of  the  U.  S.  Army. 


CHAPTER   VI. 
CORRESPONDENCE. 

Art.  I.     Letter,  Wilkinsons  Instructions  to  Pike.^ 

St.  Louis,  June  24th,  1806. 
(tilR  :  You  are  to  proceed  without  delay  to  the  canton- 
"^  ment  on  the  Missouri  [at  Belle  Fontaine],  where  you 
are  to  embark  the  late  Osage  captives  and  the  deputation 
recently  returned  from  Washington,  with  their  presents  and 
baggage,  and  are  to  transport  the  whole  up  the  Missouri 
and  Osage  rivers  to  the  town  of  the  Grand  Osage. 

The  safe  delivery  of  this  charge  at  the  point  of  destina- 
tion constitutes  the  primary  object  of  your  expedition  ; 
therefore  you  are  to  move  with  such  caution  as  may  prevent 
surprise  from  any  hostile  band,  and  are  to  repel  with  your 
utmost  force  any  outrage  which  may  be  attempted. 

Having  safely  deposited  your  passengers  and  their  prop- 
erty, you  are  to  turn  your  attention  to  the  accomplishment 
of  a  permanent  peace  between  the  Kanses  and  Osage  na- 
tions ;  for  which  purpose  you  must  effect  a  meeting  between 
the  head  chiefs  of  those  nations,  and  arc  to  employ  such 
arguments,  deduced  from  their  own  obvious  interests,  as 
well  as  the  inclinations,  desires,  and  commands  of  the  presi- 

'  General  Wilkinson's  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Pike  were  conveyed  in  the 
form  of  two  letters,  of  June  24th  and  July  12th,  respectively,  made  in  the  orig. 
ed.  pp.  107-110  of  main  text  of  Pt.  2,  though  they  were  set  in  smaller  type  as 
a  sort  of  preface  or  introduction.  But  as  no  such  preliminary  is  observed  in  the 
other  two  parts  of  the  book,  and  as  these  ordei-s  are  in  the  form  of  letters  from 
the  general  to  his  lieutenant,  I  think  they  are  preferably  brought  in  here.  By 
this  single  transposition  tlie  whole  of  the  corresjjondence  relating  to  the  .\rkan- 
saw  expedition  is  brought  together  in  chronological  order  to  form  the  present 
Chapter  VI. 

562 


Wilkinson's  instructions  to  pike.  563 

dent  of  the  United  States,  as  may  facilitate  your  purpose 
and  accomplish  the  end. 

A  third  object  of  considerable  magnitude  will  then  claim 
your  consideration.  It  is  to  effect  an  interview  and  estab- 
lish a  good  understanding  with  the  Yanctons,  Tetaus,  or 
Camanches. 

For  this  purpose  you  must  interest  White  Hair,  of  the 
Grand  Osage,  with  whom  and  a  suitable  deputation  you  will 
visit  the  Panis  republic,  where  you  may  find  interpreters, 
and  inform  yourself  of  the  most  feasible  plan  by  which  to 
bring  the  Camanches  to  a  conference.  Should  you  succeed 
in  this  attempt — and  no  pains  must  be  spared  to  effect  it — 
you  will  endeavor  to  make  peace  between  that  distant  pow- 
erful nation  and  the  nations  which  inhabit  the  country 
between  us  and  them,  particularly  the  Osage  ;  finally,  you 
will  endeavor  to  induce  eight  or  ten  of  their  distinguished 
chiefs  to  make  a  visit  to  the  scat  of  government  next  Sep- 
tember, and  you  may  attach  to  this  deputation  four  or  five 
Panis  and  the  same  number  of  Kanses  chiefs. 

As  your  interview  with  the  Camanches  will  probably  lead 
you  to  the  head  branches  of  the  Arkansaw  and  Red  rivers, 
you  may  find  yourself  approximated  to  the  settlements  of 
New  Mexico.  There  it  will  be  necessary  you  should  move 
with  great  circumspection,  to  keep  clear  of  any  hunting  or 
rcconnoitering  parties  from  that  province,  and  to  prevent 
alarm  or  offense  ;  because  the  affairs  of  Spain  and  the  United 
States  appear  to  be  on  the  point  of  amicable  adjustment, 
and  moreover  it  is  the  desire  of  the  president  to  cultivate  the 
friendship  and  harmonious  intercourse  of  all  the  nations  of 
the  earth,  particularly  our  near  neighbors  the  Spaniards." 

'  On  the  subject  of  our  then  strained  relations  with  New  Spain  I  have  exam- 
ined much  unpublished  manuscript  in  the  Archives  of  the  Government  at  Wash- 
ington, but  most  of  it  has  become  a  matter  of  well-known  historj',  needless  to 
bring  up  here.  It  is  well  understood  that  Pike  had  secret  instructions  from  the 
traitor,  General  Wilkinson,  over  and  beyond  those  which  were  ostensible  ;  and 
no  doubt  the  main  purpose  of  his  Expedition  was  to  open  the  way  to  Santa 
Fe,  with  reference  to  such  military  operations  as  then  seemed  probable.  It  is 
certain  that  General  Wilkinson  contemplated  the  possibility  if  not  the  prob- 


564  WILKINSON'S   INSTRUCTIONS  TO    PIKE. 

In  the  course  of  your  tour,  you  are  to  remark  particularly 
upon  the  geographical  structure,  the  natural  history,  and 
population  of  the  country  through  which  you  may  pass,  tak- 
ing particular  care  to  collect  and  preserve  specimens  of  every- 
thing curious  in  the  mineral  or  botanical  worlds,  which  can 
be  preserved  and  are  portable.  Let  your  courses  be  regu- 
lated by  your  compass,  and  your  distances  by  your  watch, 
to  be  noted  in  a  field-book ;  and  I  would  advise  you,  when 
circumstances  permit,  to  protract  and  lay  down  in  a  separate 
book  the  march  of  the  day  at  every  evening's  halt. 

The  instruments  which  I  have  furnished  you  will  enable 
you  to  ascertain  the  variation  of  the  magnetic  needle  and 
the  latitude  with  exactitude  ;  and  at  every  remarkable  point 
I  wish  you  to  employ  your  telescope  in  observing  the 
eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satellites,  having  previously  regulated 
and  adjusted  your  watch  by  your  quadrant,  taking  care  to 
note  with  great  nicety  the  periods  of  immersions  and  emer- 
sions of  the  eclipsed  satellites.  These  observations  may 
enable  us,  after  your  return,  by  application  to  the  appropri- 
ate tables,  which  I  cannot  now  furnish  you,  to  ascertain  the 
longitude. 

It  is  an  object  of  much  interest  with  the  executive  to 
ascertain  the  direction,  extent,  and  navigation  of  the  Arkan- 
saw  and  Red  rivers ;  as  far,  therefore,  as  may  be  compatible 

ability  of  invading  New  Mexico.     Take  as  evidence  the  following  extract  of  a 
letter  he  wrote  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  dated  St.  Louis,  Nov.  26th,  1S05  ; 

"...  Our  situation  at  New  Orleans  is  a  defenceless  one,  &  Colonel  Free- 
man's removal  of  two  Companies  from  Fort  Adams  to  that  city  leaves  us  with- 
out the  means  of  offence  above  Batton  Rouge,  which  I  do  [not]  like,  but  Free- 
man felt  himself  too  feeble  to  stand  alone  without  those  Companies— I  most 
ardently  implore  we  may  not  be  forced  to  War,  because  I  seek  repose  .t 
we  are  not  indeed  prepared  for  it,  that  is  against  European  troops — yet  if  we 
must  draw  the  sword,  the  whole  of  the  troops  destined  to  operate  West  of  the 
Mississippi  should  be  mounted,  whether  Gun-men  or  sword-men,  because  every 
Man  of  the  Enemy  will  be  found  on  Horse  Back,  and  the  composition  should  be 
such  as  I  have  described  in  a  former  Letter— If  any  thing  should  be  done  from 
this  Quarter  direct,  and  I  might  1>e  indulged  to  recommend  my  officers,  to  plan 
&  Lead  the  expedition,  If  I  do  not  reduce  New  Mexico,  at  least,  in  one  Cam- 
paign, I  will  forfeit  my  Head." 


WILKINSON'S   INSTRUCTIONS  TO   PIKE.  565 

with  these  instructions  and  practicable  to  the  means  you 
may  command,  I  wish  you  to  carry  your  views  to  those  sub- 
jects; and  should  circumstances  conspire  to  favor  the  enter- 
prise, that  you  may  detach  a  party  with  a  few  Osage  to 
descend  the  Arkansaw  under  the  orders  of  Lieutenant  Wil- 
kinson, or  Sergeant  Ballinger,  properly  instructed  and 
equipped  to  take  the  courses  and  distances,  to  remark  on  the 
soil,  timber,  etc.,  and  to  note  the  tributary  streams.  This 
party  will,  after  reaching  our  post  on  the  Arkansaw,  descend 
to  Fort  Adams  and  there  await  further  orders  ;  and  you  your- 
self may  descend  the  Red  river,  accompanied  by  a  party  of 
the  most  respectable  Camanches,  to  the  post  of  Nachitoches, 
and  there  receive  further  orders. 

To  disburse  your  necessary  expenses  and  to  aid  your 
negotiations,  you  are  herewith  furnished  six  hundred  dol- 
lars' worth  of  goods,  for  the  appropriation  of  which  you  are 
to  render  a  strict  account,  vouched  by  documents  to  be  at- 
tested by  one  of  your  party. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  expedition, 
I  am,  Sir, 

With  much  respect  and  esteem, 
Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]  JAMES  WILKINSON. 

Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike. 


Art.  2.     Letter,  Wilkinsons  Additional  Instructions 
to  Pike. 

Cantonment  [Belle  Fontaine],  Missouri, 

July  12th,  1806. 
Sir: 

The  health  of  the  Osages  being  now  generally  restored, 
and  all  hopes  of  the  speedy  recovery  of  their  prisoners  from 
the  hands  of  the  Potowatomies  being  at  an  end,  they  have 
become  desirous  to  commence  their  journey  for  their  vil- 
lages ;  you  are  therefore  to  proceed  to-morrow. 

In   addition  to  the  instructions  given  you   on   the  24th 


S66  ADDITIONAL  INSTRUCTIONS  TO   PIKE. 

ultimo,  I  must  request  you  to  have  the  talks  under  cover 
delivered  to  White  Hair  and  Grand  Peste,  the  chief  of  the 
Osage  band  which  is  settled  on  the  waters  of  the  Arkansaw, 
together  with  the  belts  which  accompany  them.  You  will 
also  receive  herewith  a  small  belt  for  the  Panis  and  a  large 
one  for  the  Tetaus  or  Camanches. 

Should  you  find  it  necessary,  you  are  to  give  orders  to 
Maugraine,  the  resident  interpreter  at  the  Grand  Osage,  to 
attend  you. 

I  beg  you  to  take  measures  for  the  security  and  safe 
return  of  your  boats  from  the  Grand  Osage  to  this  place. 

Dr.  Robinson  will  accompany  you  as  a  volunteer.  He  will 
be  furnished  medicines,  and  for  the  accommodations  which 
you  give  him  he  is  bound  to  attend  your  sick. 

Should  you  discover  any  unlicensed  traders  in  your  route, 
or  any  person  from  this  territory,  or  from  the  United  States, 
without  a  proper  license  or  passport,  you  are  to  arrest  such 
person  or  persons  and  dispose  of  their  property  as  the  law 
directs. 

My  confidence  in  your  caution  and  discretion  has  pre- 
vented my  urging  you  to  be  vigilant  in  guarding  against  the 
strategy  and  treachery  of  the  Indians  ;  holding  yourself 
above  alarm  or  surprise,  the  composition  of  your  party, 
though  it  be  small,  will  secure  to  you  the  respect  of  a  host 
of  untutored  savages. 

You  are  to  communicate,  from  the  Grand  Osage  and  from 
every  other  practicable  point,  directly  to  the  secretary  of 
war,  transmitting  your  letters  to  this  place  under  cover,  to 
the  commanding  officer,  or  by  any  more  convenient  route. 

I  wish  you  health  and  a  successful  and  honorable  enter- 
prise, and  am. 

Yours  with  friendship, 

[Signed]     JAMES  WILKINSON. 
Lieutenant  Z.   M.  Pike. 


LETTER,   PIKE  TO  WILKINSON.  567 

Art.  J. '    Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.    {Orig.  No.j,  pp.  J2,jj.) 

St.  Charles,  July  17th,  1806. 
Dear  Sir  : 

We  arrived  here  last  evening  all  well,  except  some  of  the 
soldiers  from  fatigue,  as  in  the  present  state  of  the  water  we 
are  obliged  to  row  altogether. 

We  were  disappointed  in  obtaining  any  information  from 
St.  Louis,  or  baggage  for  our  Panis.  I  do  not  know  how  it 
will  be  digested  by  them.  We  likewise  were  disappointed 
in  receiving  a  line  from  you,  as  we  had  here  expected,  and 
in  the  hopes  of  which  I  shall  yet  detain  until  twelve  o'clock 
and  then  take  my  departure.  Our  Osage  conduct  them- 
selves pretty  well,  and  arc  very  obedient  to  orders  ;  at  first 
they  had  an  idea  a  little  too  free  relative  to  other  people's 
property,  but  at  present  stand  corrected. 

I  understood  from  you  that  they  were  equipped  by  Mr. 
Tillicr  with  everything  necessary  for  their  voyage  to  their 
towns  ;  consequently,  although  they  have  been  applying  to 
me  for  a  variety  of  articles,  none  of  which  have  they  been 
gratified  with,  but  powder  and  ball,  which  is  necessary  for 
their  own  defense. 

The  general  will  pardon  this  scrawl  ;  and  should  he  send 
an  express  after  us,  please  to  let  Mrs.  Pike  know  of  the 
opportunity. 

I  am,  dear  Sir, 

With  high  respect, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]  Z.  M.  PiKE,  Lt. 

General  Wilkinson. 

'Art.  3  bears  the  same  number  that  this  piece  had  in  tfie  orig.  ed.,  and  the 
same  is  the  case  with  all  the  following  articles  of  the  present  chapter,  with  one 
exception,  where  transposition  of  Orig.  Nos.  8  and  q  to  make  Arts,  g  and  8  is 
required  to  preserve  the  chronological  order.  All  these  letters  are  from  Pike  to 
Wilkinson,  excepting  my  Art.  S,  Orig.  No.  g,  which  is  from  Wilkinson  to  Pike, 
and  one  to  General  Dearborn.  Pike's  letters  are  in  the  nature  of  reports  of 
progress  to  his  commanding  general  and  the  Secretary  of  War.  They  ceased,  of 
course,  upon  his  separation  from  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  and  nothing  further  was 
heard  of  or  from  him  till  his  return  from  Mexico,  in  July,  1807. 


568  LETTER,   PIKE  TO   WILKINSON. 

Art.  4..   Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  4,  p.  jj.) 

St.  Charles,  July  19th  [2.  c,  i8th],  1S06. 
In  the  morning. 
Dear  General : 

Inclosed  you  have  one  of  the  articles  subscribed  by  Mr. 
[George]  Henry,  mentioned  in  my  note  of  yesterday.'  I 
hope  the  general  may  approve  of  the  contents. 

Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robinson  marched  with 
one  soldier  this  morning,  and  the  boats  have  proceeded 
under  the  conduct  of  [Sergeant]  Ballenger ;  I  shall  overtake 
them  in  an  hour  or  two. 

Numerous  reports  have  been  made  to  the  Indians  [we 
have  with  us],  calculated  to  impress  them  with  an  idea  that 
there  is  a  small  army  of  their  enemies  waiting  to  receive  us 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Grand  Osage.  But  I  have  partly 
succeeded  in  scouting  the  idea  from  their  minds. 
No  news  of  Chouteau,  nor  Panis'  trunks. 
I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]  Z.  M.  TiKE,  Lt. 
General  Wilkinson. 


Art.  5.  Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  S'PP-SSSS-) 

Village  De  Charette,  July  22d,  1806. 
Dear  General • 

I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  two 
obliging  favors  of  the  i8th  and  19th  inst.  The  particular 
contents  of  each  shall  be  punctually  attended  to. 

I  assure  you,  Sir,  that  I  am  extremely  pleased  with  the 
idea  that  Messrs.  [Blank]  and  [Blank]  will  meet  with  their 
merited  reward,  and  I  on  my  part  am  determined  to  .show 
them  that  it  is  not  their  sinister  movements  that  can  de- 

■•  There  is  no  allusion  to  this  matter  in  the  letter  as  originally  printed,  where 
a  long  row  of  asterisks  indic-ites  the  elision  of  what  it  was  not  thought  prudent 
to  publish  at  th.it  time. 


LETTER,    PIKE  TO   WILKINSON.  569 

range  the  objects  of  our  voyage  ;  the  greatest  embarrass- 
ment they  have  yet  occasioned  me  has  been  by  the 
detention  of  the  Panis'  baggage,  who  have  been  much 
mortified  on  the  occasion.  But  I  question  much  if,  under 
similar  impressions  and  circumstances,  many  white  men 
would  have  borne  their  loss  with  more  philosophy  than  our 
young  savages. 

I  conceive  that  I  cannot  dispose  of  one  of  my  guns 
better  than  to  give  it  to  Frank,  whose  fusee  was  left  at 
Chouteau's ;  also,  each  of  them  a  soldier's  coat ;  this  is  all 
the  remuneration  I  will  pretend  to  make  them,  and  I  hope 
it  may  bring  them  to  a  good  humor. 

You  will  probably  be  surprised  at  the  slow  progress  we 
have  made,  but  are  already  informed  of  the  cause  of  our 
detention  at  St.  Charles.  Since  then  we  have  been  detained 
two  days  on  account  of  the  rain  ;  and  although  we  were 
able  to  prevent  the  water  from  entering  immediately  on  the 
top  of  the  boat  where  covered,  yet  the  quantity  which  she 
made  at  both  ends  occasioned  so  much  dampness  under  the 
loading  as  to  injure  both  my  own  corn  and  that  of  the 
Indians,  with  other  small  articles  which  they  had  at  various 
times  taken  from  under  the  loading  and  not  returned  to 
their  proper  places ;  but  they  appear  satisfied  that  we 
have  paid  all  possible  attention  to  prevent  injury  to  their 
baggage — as  much  as,  and  indeed  more  than,  to  our  own. 

In  consequence  of  the  above,  and  with  a  design  to  write 
you,  I  halted  here  to-day,  which  I  hope  we  shall  usefully  em- 
ploy in  drying  our  baggage,  cleaning  our  arms,  and  putting 
ourselves  in  a  posture  of  defense.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson 
has  experienced  no  inconvenience  from  his  march  by  land 
with  the  Indians  ;  and  the  event  has  proved  the  necessity 
of  some  officer  accompanying  them,  as  he  informs  me.  He 
found  it  necessary  to  purchase  some  beeves  for  their  con- 
sumption on  the  route,  for  which  he  drew  on  the  superin- 
tendent of  Indian  affairs,  and  will  write  to  you  more 
particularly  on  the  subject.  They  were  absent  from  the 
boat  four    days  ;    and   had  he   not   been   with  them,   they 


570  LETTER,   PIKE  TO   WILKINSON. 

would  have  supplied  themselves  by  marauding,  to  the  great 
offense  of  our  good  citizens. 

I  am  informed  that  a  party  of  40  Sacs  were  at  Boon's 
Lick,  above  the  Osage  river,  a  few  days  since  ;  but  I  by  no 
means  conceive  they  were  on  the  route  to  intercept  us,  as 
the  people  pretend  at  this  place. 

Three  days  since  one  of  my  men  [Kennerman]  com- 
plained of  indisposition,  and  went  on  shore  to  march ;  he 
has  never  joined  the  party,  and  from  various  reasons  I  con- 
ceive has  deserted.  I  have  therefore  inclosed  an  adver- 
tisement which,  if  the  general  will  please  to  cause  to  be 
posted  at  St.  Louis,  Kaskaskias,  and  Lusk's  Ferry  on  the 
Ohio,  I  conceive  he  will  be  caught.  I  have  written  to 
Captain  Daniel  Bissell '  on  the  occasion ;  but  hope  the 
general  will  enforce  my  request  to  that  gentleman,  as  to  his 
[Kenncrman's]  being  brought  to  trial.  I  was  much  morti- 
fied at  the  event,  not  only  on  account  of  the  loss  of  the 
man,  but  that  my  peculiar  situation  prevented  mc  from 
pursuing  him  and  making  him  an  example. 

With  respect  to  the  Tetaus,  the  general  may  rest  assured, 
I  shall  use  every  precaution  previous  to  trusting  them  ;  but 
as  to  the  mode  of  conduct  to  be  pursued  towards  the  Span- 

'  There  were  two  Bissells,  both  of  Connecticut,  and  of  the  same  or  similar 
rank  in  the  army,  often  confused  in  records  of  the  time,  unless  their  first  names 
are  given,  as  in  this  instance;  i.  Daniel  Bissell  became  an  ensign  in  the  1st 
Infantry,  Apr.  nth,  1792  ;  was  arranged  to  the  1st  sub-Legion  Sept.  4th,  1792  ; 
promoted  to  a  lieutenancy  Jan.  3d,  1794  ;  assigned  to  the  ist  Infantry  Nov.  1st, 
1796;  made  a  captain  Jan.  ist,  1799;  lieutenant-colonel,  Ist  Inf.antry,  Aug. 
I8th,  1808  ;  colonel,  5th  Infantry,  Aug.  15th,  1812  ;  brig.idier-general.  Mar. 
9th,  1814;  honorably  discharged  June  Ist,  1821.  and  died  Dec.  14th,  1S33. 
2.  Russell  Bissell  became  a  lieutenant  of  the  2d  Infantry  Mar.  4th,  1791  ;  was 
arranged  to  the  2d  sub-Legion  Sept.  4th,  1792  ;  made  captain  Feb.  19th,  1793  ; 
assigned  to  the  2d  Infantry  Nov.  ist,  1796  ;  transferred  to  the  ist  Infantry 
Apr.  1st,  1802  ;  promoted  to  be  major  of  the  2d  Infantry  Dec.  9th,  1807,  and 
died  Dec.  i8th,  1807.  Two  other  Connecticut  Bissells  who  became  army 
officers  a  little  later  were  Lieutenant  Hezekiah  W.,  who  entered  in  1801  and 
died  in  1802  ;  and  Captain  Lewis,  who  entered  as  an  ensign  in  1808  and 
resigned  in  1817.  One  Daniel  Bissell  of  Vermont  served  as  a  first  lieutenant 
for  about  a  year,  1 799-1 800,  and  in  still  later  years  there  have  been  several 
other  army  officers  of  the  s.ame  surname. 


LETTER,   PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  571 

iards,  I  feel  more  at  a  loss,  as  my  instructions  lead  me  into 
the  country  of  the  Tetaus,  part  of  which  is  no  doubt  claimed 
by  Spain,  although  the  boundaries  between  Louisiana  and 
New  Mexico,  have  never  yet  been  defined,  in  consequence 
of  which,  should  I  encounter  a  party  from  the  villages  near 
Santa  Fe,  I  have  thought  it  would  be  good  policy  to  give 
them  to  understand,  that  we  were  about  to  join  our  troops 
near  Natchitoches,  but  had  been  uncertain  about  the  head 
waters  of  the  rivers  over  which  we  passed  ;  but,  that  now,  if 
the  commandant  approved  of  it,  we  would  pay  him  a  visit  of 
poUteness,  either  by  deputation,  or  the  whole  party,  but  if 
he  refused,  signify  our  intention  of  pursuing  our  direct  route 
to  the  post  below ;  but  if  not  I  flatter  myself  secure  us  an 
unmolested  retreat  to  Natchitoches.  But  if  the  Spanish 
jealousy,  and  the  instigation  of  domestic  traitors  should 
induce  them  to  make  us  prisoners  of  war,  (in  time  of  peace) 
I  trust  to  the  magnanimity  of  our  countiy  for  our  libera- 
tion and  a  due  reward  to  their  opposers,  for  the  insult  and 
indignity  offered  their  national  honor.  However,  unless  they 
give  us  ample  assurances  of  just  and  honorable  treatment, 
according  to  the  custom  of  nations  in  like  cases,  I  would 
resist,  even  if  the  inequality  was  as  great  as  at  the  affair  of 
Bender  [town  in  Russia],  or  the  streights  of  Thermopyla;." 

*The  above  is  sucli  an  important  paragraph  that  I  reproduce  it  verbatim 
from  the  original,  though  it  is  so  badly  constructed  as  to  be  very  obscure.  The 
obscurity,  however,  is  simply  bad  grammar,  not  intentional  veiling  of  anything  ; 
and  as  the  sentences  cannot  be  conveniently  reconstructed  in  the  text,  I  would 
read  as  follows  : 

"With  respect  to  the  letans,  the  general  may  rest  assured  that  I  shall  be 
very  cautious  about  trusting  them.  I  feel  more  at  a  loss  how  to  conduct  myself 
with  the  Spaniards,  for  my  instructions  send  me  to  the  Comanche  country,  part 
of  which  is  no  doubt  claimed  by  Spain,  though  the  boundaries  between  Louisi- 
ana and  New  Spain  have  never  been  settled.  Consequently,  should  I  meet  a 
Spanish  party  from  the  villages  near  Santa  Fe,  I  think  it  would  be  good  policy 
to  give  them  to  understand  (i)  that  my  party  was  going  to  join  our  troops  near 
Natchitoches,  but  had  mistaken  the  Rio  Grande  for  Red  river  ;  (2)  that  if  it 
would  be  agreeable  to  the  Spanish  commandant,  some  or  all  of  us  would  pay 
him  a  polite  visit  ;  and  (3)  that  if  he  did  not  wish  us  to  do  this,  we  would  go 
direct  to  Natchitoches.  In  any  event,  I  flatter  tnyself  that  I  shall  get  out  of  the 
scrape  somehow.     But   if  Spanish  jealousy  of  Americans,  and  the  Aaron  Burr 


572  LETTER,   PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

Will  you  pardon  the  foregoing  as  the  enthusiasm  of  a 
youthful  mind,  yet  not  altogether  unimpressed  by  the  dic- 
tates of  prudence? 

I  hope  the  general  will  be  persuaded  that  with  his  son  I 
shall  act  as  I  would  to  a  brother,  endeavoring  in  all  cases 
to  promote  his  honor  and  prosperity. 

In  consequence  of  indisposition,  etc.,   Lieut.  Wilkinson 
will  steer  one  boat  and  I  the  other. 
I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  sincere  friend. 

And  obedient  humble  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 
General  J.  Wilkinson. 


Art.  6.     Letter,  Pike  to  VVilkmson.     {Orig.  No.  6,  p.  j6.) 

Village  de  Charette,  Evening  of  July  22d,  i8o6. 
Dear  Sir  : 

Finding  no  prospect  of  meeting  with  a  private  conveyance 
of  our  letters  in  time  sufficient  to  find  you  previous  to  our 
setting  sail,  which  would  be  entirely  too  late  to  secure  my 
deserter  and  give  you  the  other  information  they  contain, 
I  have  hired  the  bearer  to  ride  express  to  Belle  Fontaine, 
for  which  I  have  promised  him  $8  ;  which,  taking  into  view 
his  ferriages,  etc.,  cannot  be  deemed  high,  and  I  hope  the 

conspiracy,  cause  us  to  be  made  prisoners  of  war  (in  time  of  peace),  I  trust  that 
you  will  see  that  we  are  released,  and  they  are  punished  for  the  insult.  More- 
over, if  I  do  not  feel  assured  they  will  treat  us  well  in  Mexico,  I  will  fight 
them,  no  matter  how  many  there  are,  before  I  will  let  them  take  us  there." 
This  sort  of  talk  is  not  that  mixture  of  youthful  enthusiasm  with  prudence 
for  which  Pike  begs  Wilkinson's  pardon  in  the  next  paragraph  ;  but  the  deter- 
mination of  a  resolute  young  fellow  to  obey  orders  to  the  best  of  his  ability,  and 
accomplish  if  possible  the  purpose  of  the  secret  instructions  given  him  by  Gen- 
eral Wilkinson.  It  is  also  what  boys  call  a  "  dead  give  away  ";  for  here,  at  the 
outset  of  his  Expedition,  Pike  is  talking  about  going  to  New  Mexico,  intending 
to  deceive  the  Spaniards  he  expected  to  meet  there,  and  weighing  the  chances 
of  their  good  or  bad  treatment  of  himself  and  party.  I  forbear  to  characterize 
the  ethics  of  the  situation  ;  the  discerning  reader  will  be  able  to  look  through 
this  hole  in  a  grindstone,  and  form  his  own  conclusions  :  see  also  note  ■".  p.  504. 


LETTER,   PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  573 

general  will  please  to  order  the  military  agent  to  discharge 
the  same. 

The  weather  has  at  length  become  settled,  and  we  set 
sail    to-morrow    with    our   boats    newly    and    much    better 

arranged. 

I  am,  General,  with  sincere  esteem, 

And  high  respect. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 
General  Wilkinson. 


Art.  7.     Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  7,  p.  36.) 

Five  Leagues  Below  the  River  Osage,  July  26th,  1806. 
Dear  General : 

I  halt  a  moment,  in  order  to  say  we  have  arrived  thus  far 
all  safe,  although  our  savages  complain  much  of  fatigue,  etc. 
The  bearer  had  been  sent  by  Mr.  Sangonet  [Charles  San- 
guinet,  Sr.]  to  examine  the  Osage  river,  and  reports  that 
they  could  not  get  their  canoes  up  the  river  more  than  60 
miles.  If  so,  we  have  a  bad  prospect  before  us  ;  but  go  we 
will,  if  God  permits. 

We  have  been  detained  several  days  by  the  Indians. 
I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 
Gen.  James  Wilkinson. 


Art.  8.  Letter,  Wilkinson  to  Pike.     {Orig.  No.  p,  pp.  J8-4.0.) 

Cantonment  Missouri  [at  Belle  Fontaine], 
Aug.  6th,  1806. 
Sir  : 

In  consequence  of  the  receipt  of  the  inclosed  letters, 
I  have  thought  proper  to  send  you  an  express,  to  enable 
you  to  announce  to  the  Osage  the  designs  of  their  enemies, 
that   they   may  take   seasonable   measures   to   circumvent 


574  LETTER,   WILKINSON   TO   PIKE. 

them.  You  will  not  fail,  in  addition  to  the  within  talk, 
to  enhance  our  paternal  regard  for  this  nation  by  every 
proper  expression  ;  but  are  to  keep  clear  of  any  conflict  in 
which  they  may  be  involved,  though  you  are  to  avoid  the 
appearance  of  abandoning  them.  If  it  should  be  the  Poto- 
watomies'  intention  to  carry  their  threat  into  execution,  it 
is  probable  they  will  not  attempt  to  make  the  blow  before 
the  falling  of  the  leaves  ;  and  in  the  mean  time  the  Osages 
should  establish  a  chain  of  light  scouts  along  the  coast  of 
the  Missouri,  to  ascertain  with  certainty  the  approach  of 
their  enemy. 

It  is  reduced  to  a  certainty  that  [Manuel  de  Lisa]  and 
a  society  of  which  he  is  the  ostensible  leader  have  deter- 
mined on  a  project  to  open  some  commercial  intercourse 
with  Santa  Fe  ;  and  as  this  may  lead  to  a  connection 
injurious  to  the  United  States,  and  will,  I  understand,  be 
attempted  without  the  sanction  of  law  or  the  permission  of 
the  executive,  you  must  do  what  you  can  consistently  to 
defeat  the  plan.  No  good  can  be  derived  to  the  United 
States  from  such  a  project,  because  the  prosecution  of  it 
will  depend  entirely  on  the  Spaniards,  and  they  will  not 
permit  it,  unless  to  serve  their  political  as  well  as  their  per- 
sonal interests.  I  am  informed  that  the  ensuing  autumn 
and  winter  will  be  employed  in  reconnoitering  and  opening 
a  connection  with  the  Tetaus,  Panis,  etc.;  that  this  fall  or 
the  next  winter,  a  grand  magazine  is  to  be  established  at 
the  Osage  towns,  where  these  operations  will  commence ; 
that  [Lisa]  is  to  be  the  active  agent,  having  formed  a  con- 
nection with  the  Tetaus.  This  will  carry  forward  their 
merchandise  within  three  or  four  days*  travel  of  the  Spanish 
settlements,  where  they  will  deposit  it  under  a  guard  of  300 
Tetaus.  [Lisa]  will  then  go  forward  with  four  or  five 
attendants,  taking  with  him  some  jewelry  and  fine  goods. 
With  those  he  will  visit  the  governor,  to  whom  he  will 
make  presents,  and  implore  his  pity  by  a  fine  tale  of  suffer- 
ings which  have  been  endured  by  the  change  of  govern- 
ment ;  that  they  are  left  here,  with  goods  to  be  sure,  but 


LETTER,   WILKINSON   TO   PIKE.  575 

not  a  dollar's  worth  of  bullion,  and  therefore  they  have 
adventured  to  see  him,  for  the  purpose  of  praying  his  leave 
for  the  introduction  of  their  property  into  the  province.  If 
he  assents,  then  the  whole  of  the  goods  will  be  carried  for- 
ward ;  if  he  refuses,  then  [Lisa]  will  invite  some  of  his 
countrymen  to  accompany  him  to  his  deposit,  and  having 
there  exposed  to  them  his  merchandise,  he  will  endeavor  to 
open  a  forced  or  clandestine  trade ;  for  he  observes,  the 
Spaniards  will  not  dare  to  attack  his  camp.  Here  you  have 
the  plan,  and  you  must  take  all  prudent  and  lawful  means 
to  blow  it  up. 

In  regard  to  your  approximation  to  the  Spanish  settle- 
ments, should  your  route  lead  you  near  them,  or  should  you 
fall  in  with  any  of  their  parties,  your  conduct  must  be 
marked  by  such  circumspection  and  discretion  as  may  pre- 
vent alarm  or  conflict,  as  you  will  be  held  responsible  for 
consequences.  On  this  subject  I  refer  you  to  my  orders. 
We  have  nothing  new  respecting  the  pending  negotiations 
in  Europe;  but  from  Colonel  [T.  H.]  Gushing  I  understand 
the  Spaniards  below  are  behaving  now  with  great  courtesy. 

By  the  return  of  the  bearer  you  may  open  your  corre- 
spondence with  the  secretary  of  war  [General  Dearborn]  ; 
but  I  would  caution  you  against  anticipating  a  step  before 
you,  for  fear  of  deception  and  disappointment.  To  me  you 
may,  and  must,  write  fully  and  freely,  not  only  giving 
a  minute  detail  of  everything  past  worthy  of  note,  but  also 
of  your  prospects  and  the  conduct  of  the  Indians.  If  you 
discover  that  any  tricks  have  been  played  from  St.  Louis, 
you  will  give  them  to  me  with  names,  and  must  not  fail  to 
give  particulars  to  the  secretary  of  war,  with  names,  to  warn 
him  against  improper  confidence  and  deception.  Inclose 
your  dispatch  for  me  to  Golonel  [T.]  Hunt,  and  it  will  follow 
me  by  a  party  which  I  leave  for  the  purpose.  It  is  interest- 
ing to  you  to  reach  Nachitoches  in  season  to  be  at  the  seat 
of  government  pending  the  session  of  Gongress  ;  yet  you 
must  not  sacrifice  any  essential  object  to  this  point.  Should 
fortune  favor  you  on  your  present  excursion,  your  impor- 


5/6  LETTER,   PIKE  TO   WILKINSON. 

tance   to  our  country   will,  I   think,  make  your   future   life 
comfortable. 

To  show  you  how  to  correct  your  watch  by  the  quadrant, 
after  it  has  been  carefully  adjusted,  preparatory  to  your 
observing  the  eclipses  of  the  satellites  of  Jupiter,  I  send 
you  a  very  simple  plan,  which  you  will  readily  understand  : 
a  basin  of  water,  in  some  place  protected  from  the  motion 
of  the  air,  will  give  you  a  fairer  artificial  horizon  than  mer- 
cury. I  think  a  tent,  with  a  suitable  aperture  in  the  side 
of  it,  would  do  very  well.  I  have  generally  unroofed  a 
cabin. 

Miranda  has  botched  his  business.  He  has  lost  his  two 
schooners  captured,  and  himself  in  the  Leander  returned  to 
Jamaica.  The  French  have  a  squadron  of  four  frigates  at 
Porto  Rico,  and  five  sail  of  the  line  with  Jerome  Bona- 
parte at  Martinique.     I  consider  them  lost. 

Your  children  have  been  indisposed  ;  but  Mrs.  Pike  writes 
you.  She  appears  well.  My  regards  to  your  associates, 
and  may  God  protect  you. 

[Signed]  J.  Wilkinson. 

Lieutenant  Pike. 


Art.  g.  Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  S,p.j7.) 

Park  on  the  Osage  River,  Aug.  14th,  1S06. 
Dear  Sir  : 

I  send  this  letter  by  Baptiste  la  Tulip  [note  '°,  p.  381], 
who  informs  me  he  bears  letters  to  Chouteau,  informing 
him  that  a  party  of  Little  Osages  have  marched  to  war 
against  the  Kanses,  and  a  party  of  Grand  Osages  left  the 
village  expressly  to  make  war  on  the  white  people  on  the 
Arkansaw.  This  latter  step  White  Hair  did  everything  in 
his  power  to  prevent,  but  could  not.  If  true,  what  are  we 
to  think  of  our  bans  amis,  the  Osage  ? 

But  to  [Manuel  de  Lisa]  must  we  ascribe  the  stroke 
against  the  Kanses.  He  I  am  informed  sent  a  message  to 
the  Osage  nation  to  raze  the  Kanses  village  entirely.     On 


LETTER,   riKE   TO   WILKINSON.  577 

this  subject  I  intended  to  have  been  more  particular,  and 
substantiate  it  by  proofs ;  but  present  circumstances  seem 
to  give  credit  to  it,  On  my  arrival  at  the  village,  more  par- 
ticular inquiry  shall  be  made  on  the  subject. 

Yesterday  morning  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  the  doctor, 
interpreter,  and  one  soldier,  marched  with  the  Indians,  as 
they  were  very  apprehensive  of  an  attack.  The  people  in 
the  canoe  heard  them  crying  and  saw  them  on  their  march. 

Nothing  extraordinary  has  yet  taken  place  on  our  route, 
except  our  being  favored  with  a  vast  quantity  of  rain,  which 
I  hope  will  enable  us  to  ascend  to  the  village. 

What  face  will  the  Indians  receive  us  with  ?  And  to 
whom  are  we  to  ascribe  their  hostile  disposition,  unless  to 
the  traitors  of  St.  Louis? 

Lieutenant  Wilkinson  is  in  very  good  health,  and  will 
lament  his  having  missed  this  opportunity  of  assuring  his 
parents  of  his  love  and  affection. 

I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]  Z.  M.  PiKE. 

Gen.  James  Wilkinson. 


Art.  10.     Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  10, 
Pp.  40-42.) 

Camp  Independence,  near  the  Osage  Towns, 

Aug.  28th,  1806. 
Dear  General : 

You  will  no  doubt  be  much  surprised  to  perceive  by  the 
date  of  this  letter  that  we  are  still  here ;  but  we  have  been 
unavoidably  detained  by  a  variety  of  circumstances. 

I  had  the  happiness  to  receive  your  express  the  day  of 
my  arrival,  the  bearer  having  arrived  the  night  before,  and 
have  attended  particularly  to  its  contents. 

On  the  19th  inst.  I  delivered  your  parole  to  Cheveux 
Blanche,  and  on  the  21st  held  a  grand  council  of  both 
towns,  and   made    the    necessary  communications  and  de- 


578  LETTER,    PIKE  TO   WILKINSON. 

mands  for  horses,  on  the  subjects  of  making  peace  with  the 
Kans,  accompanying  me  to  the  Panis,[and  Wilkinson]  down 
the  Arkansaw,  and  [to  ascertain]  if  there  were  any  brave 
enough  to  accompany  me  the  whole  voyage. 

They  requested  one  day  to  hold  council  in  the  villages, 
previous  to  giving  an  answer.  It  was  three  before  I 
received  any  ;  their  determination  was  as  follows :  From 
the  Grand  Osage  village,  or  [that  of]  Cheveux  Blanche,  we 
are  accompanied  by  his  son,  and  Jean  La  Fon  [Le  FouJ, 
the  second  chief  of  the  village,  with  some  young  men  not 
known,  and  he  furnishes  us  four  horses. 

The  Little  Osage  sends  the  brother  of  the  chief,  whom 
I  really  find  to  be  the  third  chief  of  the  village,  and  some 
young  men  unknown,  and  furnishes  six  horses.  This  is 
their  present  promise,  but  four  of  the  ten  are  yet  deficient. 
With  these  I  am  merely  capable  of  transporting  our  mer- 
chandise and  ammunition.  I  shall  purchase  two  more,  for 
which  I  find  we  shall  be  obliged  to  pay  extravagant  prices. 

I  sincerely  believe  that  the  two  chiefs,  White  Hair  and 
Wind,  have  exerted  all  their  influence  ;  but  it  must  be  little, 
when  they  could  only  procure  lo  horses  out  of  700  or  800. 

I  have  taken  an  exact  survey  of  the  river  to  this  place, 
noting  particular  streams,  etc.,  a  protracted  copy  of  which 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  forwards  by  this  opportunity.  Since 
our  arrival  here  I  have  ascertained  the  variation  of  the 
compass  to  be  6°  30'  E.;  the  latitude,  by  means  of  several 
observations,  37"  26'  17"  N.;  and  by  an  observation  on  three 
different  nights  I  obtained  two  immersions  of  Jupiter's  sat- 
ellites, which  will  enable  us  to  ascertain  every  geographical 
object  in  view. 

On  the  sdme  night  I  arrived  near  the  village,  Mr.  Baptist 
Duchouquette,  alias  Larme,  with  two  men,  in  a  small  canoe, 
arrived  and  went  immediately  to  the  lodge  of  White  Hair, 
whose  conduct,  with  that  of  our  resident  interpreter,  appears 
in  my  estimation  to  have  changed  since  I  sent  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson  to  demand  to  see  Baptist's  passport,  if  he  had 
one,  and  if  not,  to  bring  him  to  camp ;  which  was  done.     I 


LETTER,   PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  579 

detained  him  two  days,  until  I  had  made  an  inquiry  of  White 
Hair,  who  said  he  had  merely  mentioned  to  him  that 
Labardie  was  coming  with  a  quantity  of  goods.  Finding  I 
could  substantiate  nothing  more  criminal  against  him  than 
his  having  entered  the  Indian  boundaries  without  a  pass- 
port, and  not  being  able  to  send  him  back  a  prisoner,  I 
detained  him  a  sufficient  time  to  alarm  him,  then  took  his 
deposition  (a  copy  of  which  is  inclosed  to  the  attornej?- 
general),  and  wrote  Dr.  Brown  on  the  occasion,  requesting 
him  to  enter  a  prosecution  against  these  men  [see  note  ", 
p.  388,  Aug.  20th,  1806]. 

Barroney  informs  me  that  he  has  not  the  least  doubt  that 
[Lisa]  was  at  the  bottom  of  this  embassy,  although  in  the 
name  of  [Labardie] ;  as  after  the  arrival  of  Baptist,  the 
Indians  frequently  spoke  of  [Lisa]  and  declared  that  if  he 
had  come  he  could  have  obtained  horses  in  plenty. 

Our  interpreter,  Maugraine,  also,  I  do  believe  to  be  a 
perfect  creature  of  [Lisa]  ;  he  has  almost  positively  refused 
to  accompany  me,  although  I  read  your  order  on  the  sub- 
ject, alleging  he  was  only  engaged  to  interpret  at  this  place, 
notwithstanding  he  went  last  year  to  the  Arkansaw  for  Mr. 
Chouteau  without  difficulty.  I  have  not  yet  determined  on 
the  line  of  conduct  to  be  pursued  with  him  ;  but  believe,  on 
his  giving  a  positive  refusal,  I  shall  use  military  law.  What 
the  result  will  be  is  uncertain ;  but  to  be  thus  braved  by  a 
scoundrel  will  be  lessening  the  dignity  of  our  government. 
He  is  married  into  a  powerful  family,  and  appears,  next  to 
White  Hair,  to  have  the  most  influence  in  the  Grand 
[Osage]  village.  The  general  will  please  to  observe  that 
much  of  the  foregoing  rests  on  conjecture,  and  therefore 
will  give  it  its  due  weight.  But  to  him  I  not  ojily  write  as 
my  general,  but  as  a  paternal  friend,  who  would  not  make 
use  of  my  open  communications,  when  not  capable  of  being 
substantiated  by  proofs. 

We  have  heard  nothing  of  the  Potowatomies ;  but  should 
they  come  in  a  few  days,  they  will  meet  with  a  warm  recep- 
tion, as  all  are  ready  to  receive  them. 


58o  LETTER,    PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

Since  my  arrival  here  many  Spanish  medals  have  been 
shown  me,  and  some  commissions.  All  I  have  done  on 
the  subject  is  merely  to  advise  their  delivery  below,  when 
they  would  be  acknowledged  by  our  government.  Many 
have  applied  for  permission  to  go  to  Saint  Louis ;  none  of 
which  I  have  granted  except  to  the  son  of  Sans  Orielle, 
who  goes  down  to  make  inquiry  for  his  sister. 

I  have  advanced  our  express  some  things  on  account,  and 
forward  his  receipts  ;  also,  some  trifles  to  Barroney,  whom  I 
have  found  to  be  one  of  the  finest  young  men  I  ever  knew 
in  his  situation.  He  appears  to  have  entirely  renounced  all 
his  Saint  Louis  connections,  and  is  as  firm  an  American  as 
if  born  one  ;  he  of  course  is  entirely  discarded  by  the  people 
of  Saint  Louis  ;  but  I  hope  he  will  not  suffer  for  his  fidelity. 

On  the  chart  forwarded  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  is  noted 
the  census  which  I  caused  to  be  taken  of  the  village  of  the 
Little  Osage  ;  that  of  the  big  one  I  shall  likewise  obtain — ■ 
they  are  from  actual  enumeration.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson, 
if  nothing  extraordinary  prevents,  will  descend  the  Arkan- 
saw,  accompanied  by  Ballenger  and  two  men,  as  the  former 
is  now  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  mode  of  taking  courses 
and  protracting  his  route,  and  the  latter  appears  as  if  he 
had  not  the  proper  capacity  for  it,  although  a  good  dispo- 
sitioned  and  brave  man. 

I  am,  dear  Sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 

Gen.  Wilkinson. 


Art.  II.     Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkijison.    {Orig.  No.  ii,p.  4J.) 

[Osage  Towns],  Aug.  29th,  1806. 
Dear  Sir  : 

I  will  continue  my  communications  by  relating  that  Wind 
has  come  in  and  informed  me  that  the  other  two  horses 
which  he  promised  have  been  withdrawn  by  their  owners. 
He   appeared   really  distressed,  and    I    conceive   I   do  him 


LETTER,   PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  58 1 

justice  in  believing  that  he  is  extremely  mortified  at  the 
deceptions  whicli  have  been  passed  on  him. 

It  is  with  extreme  pain  that  I  keep  myself  cool  amongst 
the  difficulties  which  those  people  appear  to  have  a  dispo- 
sition to  throw  in  my  way ;  but  I  have  declared  to  them 
that  I  should  go  on,  even  if  I  collected  our  tents  and  other 
baggage  which  we  will  be  obliged  to  leave  together,  and 
burnt  them  on  the  spot. 

I  have  sold  the  batteau  which  I  brought  up,  and  which 
was  extremely  rotten,  for  $100  in  merchandise,  the  price  at 
this  place  ;  which  I  conceive  was  preferable  to  leaving  her 
to  destruction,  as  I  am  afraid  I  do  the  barge  (for  which  I 
demanded  $150),  although  I  leave  her  under  the  charge  of 
Wind,  and  shall  report  her  to  Colonel  [Thomas]  Hunt. 

I  shall  dispatch  the  express  to-morrow,  as  he  complains 
much  of  the  detention,  etc.,  and  as  I  hope  nothing  worthy 
of  note  will  occur  at  this  place  previous  to  our  departure. 
I  hope  the  general  will  believe  mc  to  be  and,  should  this  be 
my  last  report,  to  have  been,  his  sincerely  attached  friend 
and  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 

Gen.  Wilkinson. 


Art.  12.     Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  12, 
pp.  4.3,  44.) 

Osage  Towns,  Aug.  30th,  1806. 
Dear  .Sir  : 

I  have  brought  Mr.  Noal,  alias  Maugraine,  to  reason,  and 
he  either  goes  himself  or  hires,  at  his  expense,  a  young  man 
who  is  here  who  speaks  the  Panis  language,  and  in  many 
other  respects  is  preferable  to  himself ;  but  he  will  be  the 
bearer  of  the  express  to  Saint  Louis. 

Cheveux  Blanche  requested  mc  to  inform  you  that  there 
is  an  Osage  murderer  in  his  village,  who  killed  a  French- 
man on  the  Arkansaw  ;  but  owing  to  the  great  dissensions 
and  schism  of  the  Arkansaw   faction,  he  is  fearful  to  deliver 


582  LETTER,  PIKE  TO  WILKINSON. 

him  up  without  some  of  his  friends  having  agreed  to  it, 
and  his  authority  being  strengthened  by  a  formal  demand 
from  you ;  when  he  assures  me  he  shall  be  brought  down 
a  prisoner.  Indeed  Cheveux  Blanche  appears  to  be  very 
delicately  situated,  as  the  village  on  the  Arkansaw  serves 
as  a  place  of  refuge  for  all  the  young,  daring,  and  discon- 
tented ;  added  to  which,  they  are  much  more  regularly 
supplied  with  ammunition,  and,  should  not  our  government 
take  some  steps  to  prevent  it,  they  will  ruin  the  Grand 
village,  as  they  are  at  liberty  to  make  war  without  restraint, 
especially  on  the  nations  who  are  to  the  west,  and  have 
plenty  of  horses.  The  chief  says  he  was  promised,  at 
Washington,  that  these  people  should  be  brought  back  to 
join  him ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  many  of  his  village  are  emi- 
grating there. 

Owing  to  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  horses,  Mr.  Henry 
returns  from  this  place.  In  descending  the  Mississippi  I 
will  request  him  to  pay  his  respects  to  you. 

I  last  evening  took  the  census  of  the  Grand  village,  and 
found  it  to  be  :  men,  502  ;  boys,  341  ;  women  and  girls, 
852  ;  total,  1695  ;  lodges,  214. 

The  express  waits,  which  I  hope  the  general  will  accept 
as  an  excuse  for  this  scrawl,  having  written  him  fully  on  the 
28th  and  29th  inst. 

I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  ever  sincere  friend 

and  obedient  servant, 

Gen.  J.  Wilkinson.  [Signed]     Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 


Art.  ij.     Letter,  Pike  to  Dearborn.     {Orig.  No.  /j, 
pp.  4.5,  4.6.) 

Pawnee  Republic,  Oct.  ist,  1806 
Sir  : 

We  arrived  here  on  the  25th  ult.,  after  a  tedious  march  of 
375  miles,  the  distance,  as  I  conceive,  being  very  much  aug- 


LETTER,    PIKE   TO   DEARBORN.  583 

mented  by  the  Osagcs  who  accompanied  us  leading  us  too 
far  to  the  south,  owing  to  their  great  fear  of  the  Kans.  We 
suffered  considerably  with  thirst,  but  our  guns  furnished  us 
amply  with  buffalo  meat. 

We  delivered  in  safety  to  the  chief  the  two  young  Paw- 
nees who  had  lately  visited  Washington,  and  caused  to  be 
explained  to  the  nation  the  parole  which  they  bore  from  the 
president  of  the  United  States. 

On  our  arrival,  we  found  the  Spanish  and  American  flags 
both  expanded  in  the  village,  and  were  much  surprised  to 
learn  that  it  was  not  more  than  three  or  four  weeks  since 
a  party  of  Spanish  troops,  whose  numbers  were  estimated 
by  the  Indians  of  this  town  at  300,  had  returned  to 
Santa  Fe.  We  further  learned  that  a  large  body  of  troops 
had  left  N.  Mexico,  and  on  their  march  had  met  with  the 
villagers  of  the  Pawnee  Mahaws,  who  were  on  one  of  their 
semi-annual  excursions  ;  that  they  encamped  together,  and 
entered  into  a  treaty  ;  but  after  this  the  Pawnees  raised  their 
camp  in  the  night,  and  stole  a  large  portion  of  the  Span- 
iards' horses.  This  circumstance  induced  them  to  halt  on 
the  Arkansaw  with  the  main  body  of  the  troops,  and  to  send 
forward  the  party  who  appeared  at  this  village.  They  pro- 
posed to  this  chief  to  join  a  party  of  his  warriors  to  their 
troops,  march  to  and  entirely  destroy  the  village  of  the  Paw- 
nee Mahaws;  this  proposition  he  had  prudence  enough  to 
reject,  although  at  war  with  that  nation.  The  Spanish 
officer  informed  him  that  his  superior,  who  remained  on  the 
Arkansaw,  had  marched  from  Santa  Fe  with  an  intention  of 
entering  into  a  treaty  with  the  following  nations  of  Indians, 
viz. :  The  Kanses,  Pawnee  Republic,  Grand  Pawnees,  Paw- 
nee Loups,  Otos,  and  Mahaws ;  and  had  with  him  a  grand 
medal,  commissions,  and  four  mules  for  each  ;  but  by  the 
stroke  of  the  Pawnee  Mahaws  the  plan  was  disconcerted, 
except  only  as  to  this  nation.  The  commissions  are  dated 
Santa  Fe,  15th  of  June,  1806,  signed  governor-general,  etc., 
etc.,  of  New  Mexico,  and  run  in  the  usual  style  of  Spanish 


584  LETTER,  PIKE  TO  DEARBORN. 

commissions  to  savages,  as  far  as  I  was  capable  of  judging 
of  their  contents. 

The  chief  further  informed  me  that  the  officer  who  com- 
manded  said  party  was  too  young  to  hold  councils,  etc.; 
that  he  had  only  come  to  open  the  road ;  that  in  the 
spring  his  superior  would  be  here,  and  teach  the  Indians 
what  was  good  for  them  ;  and  that  they  would  build  a 
town  near  them.  In  short,  it  appears  to  me  to  have  been 
an  expedition  expressly  for  the  purpose  of  striking  a  dread 
into  those  different  nations  of  the  Spanish  power,  and  to 
bring  about  a  general  combination  in  its  favor.  Under 
these  impressions,  I  have  taken  the  earliest  opportunity  of 
reporting  the  infringement  of  our  territory,  in  order  that  our 
government  may  not  remain  in  the  dark  as  to  the  views  of 
her  neighbor. 

I  effected  a  meeting  at  this  place  between  a  few  Kans 
and  Osagcs,  who  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  and  buried  the 
hatchet,  agreeably  to  the  wishes  of  their  great  father;  in 
consequence  of  which  a  Kans  has  marched  for  the  Osage 
nation,  and  some  of  the  latter  propose  to  accompany  the 
former  to  their  village  ;  whether  this  good  understanding 
will  be  permanent,  I  will  not  take  on  mc  to  determine  ;  but 
at  least  a  temporaiy  good  effect  has  succeeded. 

From  the  Osage  towns,  I  have  taken  the  courses  and  dis- 
tances by  the  route  we  came,  marking  each  river  or  rivulet 
we  crossed,  pointing  out  the  dividing  ridges,  etc.  The 
waters  which  we  crossed  were  the  heads  of  the  [Little] 
Osage,  White  [Neosho],  and  Verdigrise  rivers,  [the  two  last] 
branches  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  the  waters  of  the  [Smoky 
Hill  fork  of  the]  Kans  river.  The  latitude  of  this  place,  I 
presume,  will  be  in  about  39°  30'  N.,  and  I  hope  to  obtain 
every  other  astronomical  observation  which  will  be  requisite 
to  fix  its  geographical  situation  beyond  dispute.  I  expect 
to  march  from  here  in  a  few  days ;  but  the  future  prospects 
of  the  voyage  are  eiitirrlj^  uncertain,  as  the  savages  strive  to 
throw  every  impediment  in  our  way,  agreeably  to  the  orders 
received  from  the  Spaniards.     Being  seated  on  the  ground, 


LETTER,   PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  585 

and  writing  on  the  back  of  a  book,  I  hope  will  plead  my 
excuse  for  this  scrawl. 
I  am,  Sir, 

With  high  respect, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE,  Lt. 
The  Hon.  Henrv  Dearborn, 

Secretary  War  Department. 


Art.  14.,     Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  t^, 
pp.  4.7-50) 

Pawnee  Republic,  Oct.  2d,  1806. 
Dear  General  : 

Inclosed  you  have  a  copy  of  my  letter  from  this  place  to 
the  secretary  of  war,  in  order  that,  should  you  think  any 
communication  on  the  contents  necessary,  you  may  have  a 
perfect  command  of  the  information  given  the  war  depart- 
ment, and  will  be  the  more  capable  of  illustrating  the 
subject. 

You  will  perceive  by  said  communication,  that  we  were  led 
considerably  out  of  our  course  by  our  guides,  in  my  opinion 
not  less  than  100  miles  ;  this  was  entirely  owing  to  the  pusil- 
lanimity of  the  Osage,  who  were  more  afraid  of  the  Kans 
than  I  could  possibly  have  imagined. 

You  will  likewise  perceive  the  council  which  took  place 
between  those  nations  under  our  auspices,  and  its  effects,  but 
which  I  candidly  confess  I  have  very  little  hopes  will  be  pro- 
ductive of  a  permanent  peace,  as  none  of  the  principal  men 
of  either  nation  were  present ;  but  as  both  arc  anxious  for  a 
cessation  of  hostilities,  perhaps  it  may  have  the  desired 
effect. 

Two  of  the  Kans  chiefs  have  said  they  will  pursue  the 
voyage  with  me  agreeably  to  my  orders.  I  do  not  yet  know 
whether  they  will  descend  the  Arkansaw  with  Lieut.  Wilkin- 
son, or  continue  on  to  Red  river  with  me  ;  but  they  have 
their  own  selection. 


586  LETTER,    PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

The  general  will  no  doubt  be  struck  with  some  surprise  to 
perceive  that  so  large  a  party  of  Spanish  troops  have  been 
so  lately  in  our  territory.  No  doubt  at  first  you  would  con- 
clude that  it  must  have  been  militia  ;  but  when  informed 
that  their  infantry  were  armed  with  muskets  and  bayonets 
and  had  drums,  that  the  men  wore  long  mustaches  and  whis- 
kers which  almost  covered  the  whole  of  their  faces ;  that 
their  cavalry  were  armed  with  swords  and  pistols,  and  that 
regular  guards  and  patrols  were  kept  by  horse  and  foot,  you 
may  probably  change  your  opinion. 

The  route  by  which  they  came  and  returned  was  by  no 
means  the  direct  one  from  Santa  Fc,  and  why  they  should 
have  struck  so  low  down  as  the  Grand  Saline,  unless  they 
had  an  idea  of  striking  at  the  village  of  the  Grand  Pest,  or  con- 
ceived the  Saline  to  be  in  their  territory,  I  cannot  imagine. 

On  our  arrival  here,  we  were  received  with  great  pomp 
and  ceremony  by  about  300  men  on  horseback,  and  with 
great  apparent  friendship  by  the  chief.  The  Osage  (one 
chief  and  four  warriors)  were  presented  with  eight  horses  ; 
the  Kans  who  arrived  two  clays  after  were  also  presented 
with  horses.  The  day  after,  we  assembled  the  four  principal 
chiefs  to  dine,  after  which  I  presented  the  principal  with  a 
double-barreled  gun,  gorget,'  and  other  articles  (this  man 
wore  the  grand  Spanish  medal) ;  gave  to  the  second  the 
small  medal  you  furnished  me,  with  other  articles ;  and  to 
each  of  the  others  a  gorget  in  their  turn.  Those  pres- 
ents I  conceived  would  have  a  good  effect,  both  as  to 
attaching  them  to  our  government  and  in  our  immediate 
intercourse. 

At  the  council  which  was  held  a  day  or  two  afterward 
I  presented  them  with  merchandise  which  at  this  place 
should  be  valued  at  $250 ;  and  after  explaining  their  rela- 
tive situation  as  to  the  Spanish  and  American  governments, 
I   asked   on  my   part,  if  they   would   assist   us  with   a  few 

'  A  sort  of  ornamental  neck-band,  such  as  used  to  be  worn  by  some  officers 
with  insic;nia  of  rank,  and  somewhat  like  those  still  affected  by  Free  Masons 
and  other  ecclesiastical  or  civic  orders  on  occasions  of  ceremony. 


LETTER,   PIKE  TO   WILKINSON.  587 

horses,  a  Tetau  prisoner  who  spoke  Pawnee  to  serve  as  an 
interpreter,  an  exchange  of  colors,  and  finally,  for  some  of 
their  chiefs  to  accompany  us,  to  be  sent  on  to  Washington. 
The  exchange  of  colors  was  the  only  request  granted  at 
the  time;  and  for  particular  reasons,  which  Lieut.  Wilkinson 
related,  I  thought  proper  to  return  them  to  the  chief.  After 
spending  two  or  three  anxious  days,  we  were  given  to  under- 
stand that  our  requests  could  not  be  complied  with  in  the 
other  points,  and  were  again  strongly  urged  by  the  head 
chief  to  return  the  way  we  came,  and  not  prosecute  our 
voyage  any  further.  This  brought  on  an  explanation  as  to 
our  views  toward  the  Spanish  government,  in  which  the 
chief  declared  that  it  had  been  the  intention  of  the  Span- 
ish troops  to  proceed  further  toward  the  Mississippi,  but 
that  he  objected  to  it,  and  they  listened  to  him  and  re- 
turned ;  he  therefore  hoped  we  would  be  equally  reasonable. 
Finding  me  still  determined  on  proceeding,  he  told  me  in 
plain  terms  (if  the  interpreter  erred  not)  that  it  was  the  will 
of  the  Spaniards  we  should  not  proceed  ;  which  I  not  an- 
swering, he  painted  innumerable  difificulties  which  he  said 
lay  in  the  way  ;  but  finding  all  his  arguments  had  no  effect, 
he  said  "  it  was  a  pity,"  and  was  silent. 

This  day  I  have  sent  out  several  of  my  party  to  purchase 
horses,  but  know  not  yet  how  we  shall  succeed,  as  the  Kans 
have  intimated  an  idea  that  the  chief  will  prohibit  his 
people  from  trading  with  us. 

The  Pawnees  and  the  Tetaus  are  at  war  ;  the  latter  killed 
six  of  the  former  in  August  last ;  consequently  effecting  any 
communication  with  the  Tetaus  by  means  of  this  nation  is 
impossible. 

If  God  permits,  we  shall  march  from  here  in  a  few  days, 
and  on  the  Arkansaw  I  shall  remain  until  I  build  two  small 
canoes  for  Lieut.  W[ilkinson],  whose  party  will  consist  of 
Ballenger  and  two  or  three  men,  with  three  Osage.  Those 
canoes  will  be  easily  managed,  and  in  case  of  accident  to 
one,  the  other  will  still  be  sufficient  to  transport  their 
baggage. 


588  LETTER,    PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

I  am  informed  that  in  a  few  days  he  will  meet  French 
hunters,  and  probably  arrive  at  the  village  of  the  Grand 
Pest  in  a  fortnight ;  as  all  the  Osage  nation  are  apprised  of 
his  descent,  I  conceive  he  will  meet  with  no  insurmountable 
difificulties.*  The  Tetaus  are  at  open  war  with  the 
Spaniards,  so  that  could  we  once  obtain  an  introduction, 
I  conceive  we  should  meet  with  a  favorable  reception.  Yet 
how  it  is  to  be  brought  about  I  am  much  at  a  loss  to  deter- 
mine ;  but  knowing  that,  at  this  crisis  of  affairs,  an  intimate 
connection  with  that  nation  might  be  extremely  serviceable 
to  my  country,  I  shall  proceed  to  find  them,  in  hopes  to 
find  some  means,  through  the  French,  Osage,  and  Pawnee 
languages,  of  making  ourselves  understood. 

Any  number  of  men  who  may  reasonably  be  calculated 
on  would  find  no  difficulty  in  marching  by  the  route  we 
came,  with  baggage  wagons,  field  artillery,  and  all  the  usual 
appendages  of  a  small  army  ;  and  if  all  the  route  to  Santa 
Fe  should  be  of  the  same  description,  in  case  of  war  I  would 
pledge  my  life  and  what  is  infinitely  dearer,  my  honor,  for 
the  successful  march  of  a  reasonable  body  of  troops  into  the 
province  of  New  Mexico. 

I  find  the  savages  of  this  country  less  brave,  but  possess- 
ing much  more  duplicity  and  by  far  a  greater  propensity  to 
lying  and  stealing,  than  those  I  had  to  pass  through  on  my 
last  [Mississippi]  voyage. 

I  am  extremely  doubtful  if  any  chief  of  those  nations  can 
be  induced  to  prosecute  the  voyage  with  us,  as  their  dread 
of  the  Tetaus  and  the  objections  of  the  Pawnees  seem  to 
outweigh  every  argument  and  inducement  to  the  contrary. 

Oct.  3D. 

The  Pawnee  chief  has  induced  the  Kans  to  return  to  their 
villages,  by  giving  them  a  gun  and  promising  horses,  with 
many  frightful  pictures  drawn  [of  what  would  happen]  if 
they  proceeded. 

The  Osages  lent  me  five  horses,  which  their  people  who 

♦  This  was  erroneous,  but  it  was  my  impression  at  the  time.     (Orig.  note.) 


LETTER,    PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  589 

accompaniea  us  were  to  have  led  back ;  but  receiving  fresh 
ones  from  the  Pawnees,  they  would  not  be  troubled  with 
them.  In  fact,  it  was  a  fortunate  circumstance,  as  four  of 
the  horses  I  obtained  of  the  Osage  have  such  bad  backs 
they  cannot  proceed,  and  we  will  be  obliged  to  leave  them  ; 
and  not  purchasing  here  with  facility,  I  would  have  been 
obliged  to  sacrifice  some  of  our  baggage.  I  therefore  sent 
them  a  certificate  for  each  horse,  on  the  Indian  agent  below, 
which  I  hope  the  general  will  order  him  to  discharge. 

I  know  the  general's  goodness  will  excuse  this  scrawl,  as 
he  is  well  acquainted  with  the  situation  it  must  be  written 
in,  and  at  the  same  time,  believe  me  to  be  his  sincere  friend 
and 

Most  obedient  humble  servant, 

[Signed]  Z.  M.  PiKE,  Lt. 

General  J.  Wilkinson. 


Art.  ij."     Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  15, 

PP-  50-53-) 

On  the  Arkansaw,  latitude  37"  44'  9"  N.,  Oct.  24th,  1806. 
Dear  General : 

Our  party  arrived  here  on  the  15th  inst.,  myself  and  Dr. 
Robinson  on  the  19th  [i8th  by  Itinerary,  p.  427].  We, 
having  been  out  to  seek  the  trace  of  the  Spanish  troops, 
missed  the  party,  and  were  not  able  to  join  them  until  the 
4th  [3d]  day. 

The  river  being  very  regular,  Lieut.  Wilkinson  had  cal- 
culated to  proceed  on  the  day  following  on  the  most  direct 
route  for  the  Red  [sic']  river  ;  but  shortly  after  my  joining, 
considerable  rain  fell  and  raised  the  river,  and  we  have  been 
ever    since    preparing   wooden    and    skin    canoes    for   that 

*To  this  Art.  15  belongs  the  following  table  headed  Statistical  Abstract  of 
the  Indians,  etc.,  which  in  the  orig.  ed.  was  directed  to  be  bound  facing  p.  53. 
This  page  was  followed  by  blank  p.  54,  the  leaf  of  the  book  thus  represented 
being  simply  an  overrunning  of  the  matter  of  the  original  folder.  All  that 
Recapitulation  which  was  on  p.  53  is  embodied  in  the  table  which  now  forms 
PP-  590.  591- 


Statistical  Abstract  of  the  Indians  who  inhabit  that  part  of  Louisiana  visited 


Names. 


English. 


I.  Osage 
I.         Grand 
village  * 


[2.         Little  Wasbasha 
village  *] 


Indian. 


Wasbasha 


[3.      Arkan- 
saw  vil' 

lage  t] 


II.  Kanst 


III.  PawncL 
I.  Republi- 
can village  * 


£.        Grand 

Village  X 


3.  Loup  vil- 
lage t 


IV.  Tetan  % 


Wasbasha 


ICansa 


Pawn  an  e 


Pawnane 


Caman- 

ches 


French. 


Osage 
Grand 
Osage 


Petit 

Osage 


Osages 
Total 


Kan 

[Total] 


Pan  is 


Panis 


Panis 
Paw- 
nees 
total 


[Total] 
[Grand 
total] 


508 


48s 


2700 
6410 


852 


700 
1793 


7463 


174  F. 
iSQ  M. 


300  M. 
974 

600 


s6o 


6134 


1695 


824 


1565 


►J  > 


1618      44 


14S5 
6223 
8200 


450 
1309 


270 
2620 


u  u 


B.J 


•si  lie 


Osage 


Osage 


Osage 


Osage 


Pawnee 


Pawnee 


Pawnee 


St.  Louis 


St.  Louis 


Arkansaw  r 


St.  Louis 


St.        Louis 
and  Kans 


St.      Louis ; 
possibly 
once     m     3 
years   Span- 
iards 

do. 


Caman-  Spaniards  of 

che  N.  Mexico 


m 


3  c  — 
■-5  rt  n 
^j3  3 


$10000 


8000 


8000 


250  deer 
15  beaver 
100  otter 


Species  uf 
Peltry. 


Deer,    bear, 
otter, 

beaver,        a 
few  buffalo 


do. 


Deer, 

beaver,  ot- 
ter, bear,^ 
buffalo 

Deer,  buf- 
falo, a  few 
beaver  and 
otter 


do. 


Buffalo 

robes 
horses 


♦  Census  taken  by  myself  ;  men  counted,  women  and  children  estimated.  t  Estimat' 


by  Captain  Z,  M.  Pike  in  His  Tour  of  Discovery  i)i  the  years  iSo6  and  i8oj. 


Best  Positions 
for       Trading 


With  whom 
at  war. 


With  whom  at 
peace,  or  in 
alliance. 


Names  of  the  Chiefs  or  Principal  Men. 


Indian. 


French. 


Enghsh. 


Remarks. 


Middle  branch 
of  Osage  r,,  bet 
Grandand  Little 
villages 


Tetaus,  PotO' 
watoniies,  Ar- 
kaiisaws,  CHero- 
kees,  Chicka- 
saws.  Chactaws, 
Creeks,  Padou- 
cas,  Caddoes 


Middle  branch 
of  Osage  r..  bet. 
Grandand  Little 
villages,  and 

above  Gr.  Osage 
on    the    Arkan 
saw,  and   on  the 
side  of  the  M 
souri 


Entrance  of 

Kans^  r.,    or   at 
the  village 

do. 


None,  if  at  peace 
with  Osage 


Tetaus  and 

Indians  of  N. 
Mexico ;  Panis 
Loups 


Entrance  of  La'Tetaus  and 

Platte  Indians    of     N 

Mexico 


Tetaus  and 

Indians     of     N. 
Mexico,  and 

Pawnee  Repub- 
lic 


3i§h  up  Red  r. 
near  the 
hts.  on  the 
^rkansaw 


Little  Osage,  All 

the        Pawnees, 
Sacs,  Reynards, 
Ueiawiixes, 
Shawanese, 
Kickapous, 
Otos,Missouries, 
Mahaws,       etc. 
Kans  uncertain 


Cahagatonga 


Watchawaha 

Tawangaha 

Ichesohungar 

Hapause 

Chaporanga 

Gihagatche 

Shenga  Wassa 

Wasaba  Tunga 

Ogahawasa 

Tourmansara 


Tuttasuggy 

Watchkesingar 

Nezuma 

Telobasi 
Tareheni 

Maugraine 


do. 


All  their  neigh- 
bors 


K^ns,      Osay 
and   all    Indians 
of  the  East 


Pawnees,  Utahb,  With  all  Spanish 
Osage,  Kans        Indians 


Cheveux 
blanche 

Jean  La  Fon 

Fils  de  Canard 


Bonnet  du  Bceuf 

Belle  Oiscau 
Sans  Nerve 


Le  Vent 
Suldat  de  Chien 


Sans  Oreille 


Loup  Blanche 
Homme  Richc 


White  Hair 


He   who    drives 
villages 
Wise  Family 

Pointed  Horn 

The  Chief  him- 
self 
Beautiful  Bird 

Without  Nerve 
Son-in-Law 
Heart      of      the 
Town 

The  Wind 

Soldier's  Dog 

Rain  which 

Walks 

Without  Ears 
Yellow  Skin 

Deer 

Big  Rogue 


Grand      and      little 

medals,  colors,  etc.; 

first   chief 

Second    Chief,    son- 

'n-law  to  White  Hair 

Literally    from     the 

Indian 

Son      of      Cheveux 

Blanche 

First  Soldier 


Accompanied   me  to 
the  Pawnees 


First  chief  of  Little 

Osage 

Second        chief       of 

Little  Osage 

Brother  of  first  chief 

First  Soldier 
49      Little      Osages 
killed     since    under 
our  government 


White  Wolf 

Rich  Man 

Republican 

Chief 

Two     Sons 

Characterish 


Dished  by  Grand  Osage  chiefs. 


X  On  information.    (J..  M.  P.3 


I  i. 

J   • 


592  LETTER,   PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

gentleman  and  party  to  descend  in.  The  river  is  between 
300  and  400  yards  in  width,  with  generally  flat  low  banks, 
not  more  than  two  or  three  feet  high,  and  the  bed  a  sand- 
bank from  one  side  to  the  other.  The  want  of  water  will 
present  the  greatest  obstacle  to  the  progress  of  the  party 
who  descend  the  Arkansaw,  as  they  have  no  cause  to  fear 
a  scarcity  of  provision,  having  some  bushels  of  corn  on 
hand,  and  can  at  their  option  take  as  much  dried  meat  as 
they  think  proper,  hundreds  of  pounds  of  which  are  lying 
on  scaffolds  at  our  camp ;  and  they  are  likewise  accom- 
panied by  the  choice  of  our  hunters. 

Under  these  circumstances,  and  those  stated  in  my  letter 
from  the  Pawnees,  I  can  assert  with  confidence  there  are  no 
obstacles  I  should  hesitate  to  encounter,  although  those 
inseparable  from  a  voyage  of  several  hundred  leagues 
through  a  wilderness  inhabited  only  by  savages  may  appear 
of  the  greatest  magnitude  to  minds  unaccustomed  to  such 
enterprises.  Lieut.  Wilkinson  and  party  appear  in  good 
spirits,  and  show  a  disposition  which  must  vanquish  every 
difficulty. 

We  were  eight  days  traveling  from  the  Pawnee  village  to 
the  Arkansaw,  our  general  course  S.  10°  W.  Several  days 
we  lay  by  nearly  half,  owing  to  various  circumstances ;  my 
course  made  it  150  miles,  but  I  could  now  march  it  in  120. 
Lieut.  Wilkinson  has  copied  and  carries  with  him  a  very 
elegant  protracted  sketch  of  the  route,  noting  the  streams, 
hills,  etc.,  that  we  crossed  ;  their  courses,  bearings,  etc.;  and 
should  I  live  to  arrive,  I  will  pledge  myself  to  show  their 
connections  and  general  direction  with  considerable  ac- 
curacy, as  I  have  myself  spared  no  pains  in  reconnoitering 
or  obtaining  information  from  the  savages  in  our  route. 

From  this  point  we  shall  ascend  the  river  until  we  strike 
the  mountains,  or  find  the  Tetaus  ;  thence  bear  more  to  the 
S.  until  we  find  the  head  of  the  Red  river,  where  we  shall  be 
detained  some  time  ;  after  which  nothing  shall  cause  a  halt 
until  my  arrival  at  Natchitoches. 

I  speak  in  all  those  cases  in  the  positive  mood,  as,  so  far 


LETTER,    PIKE    TO    WILKINSON.  593 

as  lies  in  the  compass  of  human  exertions,  we  command  the 
power ;  but  I  pretend  not  to  surmount  impossibilities,  and 
I  well  know  the  general  will  pardon  my  anticipating  a 
little  to  him. 

The  general  will  probably  be  surprised  to  find  that  the 
expenses"  of  the  expedition  will  more  than  double  the  con- 
templated sum  of  our  first  calculations  ;  but  I  conceived 
the  Spaniards  were  making  such  great  exertions  to  debauch 
the  minds  of  our  savages,  economy  might  be  very  im- 
properly applied,  and  I  likewise  have  found  the  purchase  of 
horses  to  be  attended  with  much  greater  expense  than  was 
expected  at  St.  Louis.  For  those  reasons,  when  I  advert  to 
the  expenses  of  my  two  voyages,  which  I  humbly  conceive 
might  be  compared  with  the  one  performed  by  Captains 
Lewis  and  Clark,  and  the  appropriations  made  for  theirs, 
I  feel  a  consciousness  that  it  is  impossible  for  the  most 
rigid  to  censure  my  accounts. 

I  cannot  yet  say  if  I  shall  sacrifice  my  horses  at  Red  river, 
but  every  exertion  shall  be  made  to  save  them  for  the 
public  ;  some,  if  in  good  condition,  would  be  fine  ones,  and 
average  between  $50  and  $60.  Should  the  fortune  of  war 
at  length  have  honored  me  with  a  company,'"  I  hope  the 
general  will  recollect  his  promise  to  me,  and  have  my  com- 
mand attached  to  it ;  and  on  my  arrival  I  shall  take  the 
liberty  of  soliciting  his  influence,  that  they  may  obtain  the 

'  An  itemized  account  of  the  Congressional  appropriation  for,  and  estimated 
expenses  of,  Lewis  and  Clark's  Expedition,  is  given  on  p.  xxi  of  the  1893  ed. 
of  L.  and  C.  So  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  inform  myself,  we  lack  the  data 
which  would  enable  us  to  make  the  comparison  which  Pike  modestly  conceives 
miglit  be  favorable  to  his  own  expeditions.  To  whatever  sum  may  have  been 
expended  on  the  part  of  the  United  States  for  the  Mississippian  voyage  and  the 
Arkansaw  journey,  as  performed  under  the  orders  of  General  Wilkinson,  is  to  be 
added  the  cost  of  the  enforced  Mexican  tour,  in  so  far  as  this  was  paid  by  the 
United  States  on  the  strength  of  claims  for  reimbursement  presented  by  the 
Spanish  authorities.  On  this  latter  score  1  have  found  some  curious  unpublished 
documents  in  the  nrchives  of  the  War  Department  at  Washington.  Certain  of 
these  items  will  be  found  beyond  in  proper  connection  with  the  official  corre- 
spondence on  the  subject. 

'"  Pike's  expected  promotion  to  a  captaincy  occurred  Aug.  12th,  1806. 


594  LETTER,    PIKE  TO   WILKINSON. 

same  or  similar  rewards,  as  those  who  accompanied  Capt. 
Lewis ;  as  I  will  make  bold  to  say  that  they  have  in  the  two 
voyages  incurred  as  great  dangers,  and  gone  through  as 
many  hardships. 

Dr.  Robinson  presents  his  respectful  compliments,  and  is 
sanguine  of  the  success  of  our  expedition. 
I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  ever  attached  friend 

and  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]  Z.  M.  PiKE. 
General  J.  Wilkinson. 


PIKE'S   EXPEDITIONS. 


part  UIIIF. 

THE  MEXICAN    TOUR- 


CHAPTER    I. 

ITINERARY  :   THROUGH  NEW  MEXICO  ON  THE  RIO  GRANDE 
TO   EL   PASO,   FEB.    27TH-MAR.   2 1  ST,    1807. 

a^RIDAY,  Feb.  27th,  1807.  In  the  morniriEx  I  discovered 
Jl  that  the  Spanish  lieutenant  [Don  Ignatio  Saltelo]  was 
writing  letters  addressed  to  the  governor  and  others ;  on 
which  I  demanded  if  he  was  not  going  on  with  me  to  Santa 
Fe.  He  appeared  confused  and  said,  No ;  that  his  orders 
were  so  positive  as  to  the  safe  conduct  and  protection  of  my 
men,  that  he  dare  not  go  and  leave  any  behind  ;  that  his 
companion  [Don  Bartolom6  Fernandez]  would  accom- 
pany me  to  Santa  Fe  with  50  men,  while  he  with  the  others 
would  wait  for  the  sergeant  [Meek]  and  his  party.  I  replied 
that  he  had  deceived  me,  and  had  not  acted  with  candor; 
but  that  it  was  now  too  late  for  me  to  remedy  the  evil. 

We  marched  about  eleven  o'clock,  ascending  the  Rio  del 
Norte  [read  Rio  Conejos]  five  miles  more,  S.  60°  W.,  when 
we  went  round  through  a  chain  of  hills  and  bore  off  to  the 
south.  We  proceeded  nine  miles  further,  when  we  crossed 
the  main  branch  of  that  stream,  which  was  now  bearing 
nearly  west  toward  [or  east  from]  the  main  chain  of  the 
third  chain  of  mountains  [San  Juan  range].  We  encamped 
on    the    opposite  side.       Intensely  cold  ;    obliged    to    stop 


596  ESCORTED    UP   RIO   CONEJOS. 

frequently    and    make    fires.     Snow    deep.     Distance     15 
[5+9=14]  miles.' 

Feb.  28th.  We  marched  late.  One  of  the  Frenchmen 
informed  me  that  the  expedition  which  had  been  at  the 
Pawnees  had  descended  the  Red  river  233  leagues,  and 
from  thence  crossed  to  the  Pawnees  expressly  in  search  of 
my  party.  This  was  afterward  confirmed  by  the  gentleman 
who  commanded  the  troops.  He  then  expressed  great 
regret  at  my  misfortunes,  as  he  termed  them,  in  being  taken, 
and  offered  his  services  in  secreting  papers,  etc.  I  took  him 
at  his  word,  and  for  my  amusement  thought  I  would  try 
him  ;  so  I  gave  him  a  leaf  or  two  of  my  journal,  copied, 

'  The  Mexican  Tour  trips  at  the  start  with  misstatements  which  must  have 
puzzled  many  a  reader,  as  they  did  the  present  editor.  Reference  to  p.  510  will 
show  that  yesterday,  Feb.  26th,  Pike  "went  up  the  river  about  12  miles."  He 
does  not  say  what  river ;  but  as  he  was  on  the  Conejos,  we  naturally  take  that 
to  be  the  one  he  ascended  that  day — and  we  are  right.  But  to-day  he  speaks  of 
"  ascending  the  Rio  del  Norte  five  miles  7nore,"  implying  that  yesterday's  march 
was  up  this  river,  as  to-day's  is  said  to  be.  Then  we  are  confronted  by  the 
statement  that  to-day's  course  is  "  S.  60°  W." — a  direction  in  which  it  is 
impossible  to  ascend  the  Rio  del  Norte  to  any  distance.  Tiic  difficulty  vanishes 
at  once,  if  for  "  Rio  del  Norte"  we  read  Rio  Cimcjos.  This  emendation  is  con- 
firmed by  Pike's  map,  which  contradicts  the  above  text,  showing  no  detour  up 
the  Rio  Grande  ;  the  dotted  trail  goes  from  the  stockade  directly  up  Rio  Cone- 
jos, to  a  point  on  its  N.  or  left  bank  marked  "  1st.  Camp  " — i.  c,  the  "  place 
of  deposit "  to  which  the  Spaniards  took  him  on  the  26th.  This  place,  where 
the  Spaniards  had  established  themselves  when  they  sent  for  Pike,  was  on  the 
direct  road  by  which  they  had  come  from  Santa  Fe,  and  not  far  from  the 
present  town  of  Conejos,  though  probalily  somewhat  further  down  the  river 
of  that  name.  The  road  which  now  crosses  the  river  at  the  town  holds  the 
course  of  a  trail  which  ran  N.  to  the  Saguache  mts.  and  through  Cochetope 
Pass  to  the  Gunnison  and  Grand  rivers,  and  so  on.  This  was  formerly  much 
used  by  the  Utes  en  route  to  Santa  Fe,  and  was  no  doubt  in  existence  in  1807. 
Conejos,  seat  of  the  county  so  named,  is  a  very  well-known  place  on  the  river, 
in  the  plain  between  the  San  Luis  hills  on  the  E.  and  the  foothills  of  the  San 
Juan  range  on  the  W. ;  it  is  directly  under  Prospect  Peak  (9,900  feet ;  air-line 
8  m.).  Roads  concenter  here  from  various  directions  ;  that  hence  to  Fort  Gar- 
land, 35X  m.  N.  E.,  crosses  the  place  where  Pike  had  his  stockade;  that  S.  W. 
to  old  Fort  I^owell  is  49)4  m.  .Some  small  jilaces  in  the  vicinity  of  Conejos  are 
called  Guadalupe,  Servilleta,  San  Raf.acl,  -San  Jose,  and  Brazos.  The  route 
pursued  hence  is  the  old  main  road  S.  down  the  Rio  Grande,  but  at  a  consider- 
able distance  W.  of  that  river  for  the  present  (along  long.  106°  W.  nearly). 


INTO   NEW   MEXICO — OJO  CALIENTE.  597 

which  mentioned  the  time  of  my  sailing  from  Belle  Fon- 
taine, and  our  force.  This  I  charged  him  to  guard  very 
carefully  and  give  to  me  after  the  investigation  of  my 
papers  at  Santa  Fe.  This  day  we  saw  a  herd  of  wild 
horses.  The  Spaniards  pursued  them  and  caught  two 
colts,  one  of  which  the  Indians  killed  and  ate ;  the  other 
was  let  go.  We  pursued  our  journey  over  some  hills,  where 
the  snow  was  very  deep,  and  encamped  at  last  on  the  top 
of  a  pretty  high  hill,  among  some  pines.  We  left  the  river, 
which  in  general  ran  about  six,  eight,  and  10  miles  to  the 
left  or  east  of  us.  Saw  great  sign  of  elk.  Distance  36 
miles.' 

Sunday,  Mar.  ist.  We  marched  early.  Although  we 
rode  very  hard  we  only  got  to  the  village  of  L'eau  Chaud, 
or  Warm  Spring  [Ojo  Caliente],  some  time  in  the  afternoon. 
The  distance  was  about  45  miles.  The  difference  of  climate 
was  astonishing  ;  after  we  left  the  hills  and  deep  snows,  we 
found  ourselves  on  plains  where  there  was  no  snow,  and 
where  vegetation  was  sprouting. 

The  village  of  Warm  Springs,  or  Aqua  [Agua]  Caliente 
in  their  language,  is  situated  on  the  eastern  branch  [bank]  of 
a  creek  of  that  name,'  and  at  a  distance  presents  to  the  eye 

'  Soon  after  leaving  Conejos  the  party  crossed  Rio  San  Antonio,  or  .San 
Antonio  cr.  (the  main  branch  of  Rio  Conejos),  below  the  confluence  of  Los 
Pinos  cr. ,  past  places  of  both  these  names,  and  at  lat.  37^  N.  went  from  the 
present  State  of  Colorado  into  the  present  Territory  of  New  Mexico.  This  river 
heads  E.  of  the  Tierra  Amarilla,  in  the  mountain  range  of  which  Brazos  Peak, 
over  Tl,ooo  feet,  is  a  conspicuous  elevation.  The  most  notable  feature  of  the 
day  is  Cerro  San  Antonio,  nearly  It.ooo  feet  high,  standing  out  from  the  range. 
They  skirted  its  E.  base,  among  the  hills  of  which  Pike  speaks,  between  it  and 
the  Buffalo  buttes,  as  the  D.  and  R.  G.  R.  R.  now  does,  and  where  is  the  station 
Volcano.  S.  W.  of  the  peak  are  the  Ortiz  hills.  Camp  was  set  at  or  near  the 
present  station  Tres  Piedras  (Three  Rocks). 

'  Or  Rio  Caliente,  as  the  name  of  the  stream  is  now  usually  rendered.  This 
is  formed  by  various  tributaries  from  the  N.  and  N.  W.  (Rita  Seri'illeta,  Vallc- 
cita,  etc.),  and  joins  the  Rio  Chama  from  the  W.,  about  5  m.  above  their 
common  entrance  into  the  Rio  Grande  opp.  San  Juan.  There  .are  various  other 
hot  or  warm  springs  than  the  one  at  which  Pike  stopped,  and  this  one  is  10  m. 
or  so  W.  of  the  railroad  station  called  Ojo  Caliente.  At  various  points  near  the 
Rio  Grande,  at  a  considerable  distance  to  Pike's  left,  are  numerous  isolated  ele- 


598  NEW   MEXICAN   PUEBLO   INDIANS. 

a  square  inclosure  of  mud  walls,  the  houses  forming  the 
walls.  They  are  flat  on  top,  or  with  extremely  little  ascent 
on  one  side,  where  there  are  spouts  to  carry  off  the  water  of 
the  melting  snow  and  rain  when  it  falls ;  which,  we  were 

vations,  some  of  which  are  Cerros  OUa,  Chifle,  Montoso,  Cristobal,  Taoses,  and 
Orejas.  Since  Pike  entered  New  Mexico,  on  crossing  lat.  37°  on  the  28th,  his 
route  has  been  practically  along  the  W.  border  of  Taos  Co.,  so  named  from  the 
well-known  Tanoan  pueblo  or  town  of  Taos,  frequently  mentioned  by  him  as 
Tons,  Tous,  Toas,  etc.,  as  his  printer  happened  to  fancy,  while  his  engraver 
made  it  "  Yaos"  on  the  map  of  New  Spain.  This  is  on  a  branch  of  Taos  cr. ; 
when  Pike  passes  its  latitude  to-day,  he  is  about  20  m.  W.  of  it.  Some  places 
p.assed  along  Caliente  cr. ,  to  his  right,  are  Petaca,  Servilleta,  and  Cueva 
Springs.  The  name  Taos  has  several  different  implications  :  for  a  river,  Rio  de 
Taos  ;  for  the  country  through  which  this  river  flows  ;  for  a  town  at  the  junc- 
tion  of  its  principal  forks,  otherwise  San  Fernandez  ;  for  a  place  3  m.  S.  E.  of 
this,  Rancho  de  Taos  ;  and  for  another  place  about  the  same  distance  N.  E., 
Pueblo  de  Taos.  San  Fernandez  de  Taos  was  a  Mexican  adobe  town,  which 
had  some  600-800  pop.  in  1846,  and  was  the  capital  of  the  Department  of 
Taos.  The  old  Indian  pueblo  of  Taos,  to  which  the  insurgents  had  retreated 
Jan.  7th,  1847,  after  the  skirmishes  of  C.inada  and  Embuda,  became  noted  dur- 
ing the  war  as  the  scene  of  a  bloody  siege  and  capture  :  see  Ex.  Doc.  No.  41, 
30th  Cong.,  1st  Sess.,  pub.  1848,  p.  457. 

In  approaching  the  subject  of  the  New  Mexican  Pueblo  Indians  it  is  necessary 
at  the  outset  to  free  the  mind  from  the  traditional  error  that  because  these  live 
in  towns  known  as  "pueblos,"  therefore  they  are  one  kind  of  Indians.  I  shall 
recur  to  the  subject  in  a  later  connection.  Here  I  wish  to  cite  an  early  instance 
of  the  recognition  of  an  all-important  ethnological  fact  on  the  part  of  Lieutenant 
James  H.  Simpson,  U.  S.  T.  E.,  whose  interesting  Journal  of  a  Military  Re- 
connaissance from  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico,  to  the  Navajo  country,  etc.,  in  1849, 
was  published  in  1850  as  one  of  the  collection  of  papers  forming  Ex.  Doc. 
No.  64,  31st  Congr.,  ist  Sess.,  8vo,  Washington,  pp.  56-168,  many  pU.  and 
maps.  He  speaks  on  p.  57  of  "  the  singular  and,  as  I  believe,  the  hitherto 
unknown  fact  .  .  .  that  among  the  10,000  (estimated)  Pueblo  Indians  who 
inhabit  New  Mexico,  as  m.any  as  six  distinct  dialects  obtain,  no  one  showing 
anything  more  than  the  faintest,  if  any,  indications  of  a  cognate  origin  with  the 
other."  He  sharply  but  justly  brings  to  book  the  English  author  Ruxton,  for 
the  grossly  erroneous  statement  (Mex.  and  the  R.  Mts.,  p.  194)  that  "the 
Indians  of  northern  Mexico,  including  the  Pueblos,  belong  to  the  s.ame  f.imily — 
the  Apache.  .  .  All  these  speak  dialects  of  the  same  language,  more  or  less 
approximating  to  the  Apache,  and  of  .ill  of  which  the  idiomatic  structure  is  the 
the  same."  A  statement  more  at  vari.mce  from  the  facts  in  the  case  could 
hardly  be  penned.  Those  Pueblo  Indians  whom  Pike  now  or  presently  meets 
represent  two  distinct  linguistic  families,  the  Keres.an  and  the  Tanoan  ;  and  we 
shall  have  several  others  to  note  in  due  course.     The  influence  of  the  church 


"  LOS  INDIOS   SON   liOMBRES." 


599 


informed,  had  been  but  once  in  two  years  previous  to  our 
entering  the  country.  Inside  of  the  inclosure  were  the  dif- 
ferent streets  of  houses  of  the  same  fashion,  all  of  one  story ; 

upon  the  pueblo  system  has  of  course  not  escaped  well-infoimed  ethnographers, 
but  I  suspect  they  have  not  always  given  it  full  credit  for  the  hand  it  had  in  first 
founding,  then  maintaining  in  misery,  and  finally  fetching  to  grief,  some  of  these 
sorry  settlements  of  inoffensive  Indians,  who  had  escaped  the  Apaches  on  one 
side  and  the  Navajos  on  the  other,  to  be  herded  about  some  mud  joss-house  and 
fleeced  as  fast  as  they  acquired  any  substance  worth  stealing.  The  business 
began  early,  and  the  way  of  it  is  something  of  a  historical  curiosity.  A  man 
named  Alessandro  Famese — the  one  who  was  pope  1534-49,  ^intl  who  undertook 
to  regulate  the  morals  of  various  persons,  besides  Henry  VIII.,  with  indifferent 
success — once  made  a  discovery  so  astonishing  that  he  must  have  been  inspired. 
Papa  Paulo  III.  promptly  published  his  find  in  a  bull  which  was  only  .saved 
from  being  Irish  by  the  fact  that  it  was  Latin  :  for  this  ethnological  pronunci- 
amento  a  todos  los  fieles  cristianos,  que  las  presentes  Ictras  vieren  declared  in 
due  and  solemn  form  que  los  indios  son  hombres  y  capaces  de  sacramentos — /.  c. , 
told  all  the  faithful  to  whom  this  exquisite  tomfoolery  came  that  Inrlians  were 
human  and  could  be  humbugged.  That  was  June  gth,  1537,  and  that  settled  it — 
the  hint  was  enough  to  set  upon  the  savages  the  horde  of  corrupt,  profligate, 
and  extortionate  ecclesiastics  who  have  cursed  the  country  from  that  day  to  this. 
The  first  business  of  these  people  was  always  to  build  a  church  in  which  to 
brandish  the  crucifix  at  those  who  had  escaped  the  tom.ihawk,  and  pray  for  the 
souls  of  those  whose  superstitions  were  thus  played  upon  while  their  property 
was  preyed  upon— for  churches  cannot  be  built  and  priests  supported  unless 
somebody  sweats  for  it.  I  hardly  think  that  Indians  thus  huddled  around  a 
church,  in  abject  terror  alike  of  their  natural  and  their  supernatural  enemies, 
outside  and  inside  the  pueblo,  were  any  better  off  for  self-defense  than  they 
would  have  been  had  they  been  left  to  their  natural  resources— though  many 
have  so  fancied  ;  for  the  numerical  strength  of  such  an  aggregation  would  have 
been  just  as  effective  without  that  edifice,  and  tame  Indians  are  no  match  for 
wild  ones.  The  process  of  converting  an  Indian  to  Christianity  simply  mixes 
his  metaphors  and  muddles  his  mind,  by  substituting  for  the  superstitions  he 
thinks  he  understands  other  mysteries  which  the  priests  themselves  declare  to  be 
incomprehensible.  The  advantage  of  this  to  the  Indian  is  not  easily  discerned, 
and  some  of  its  disadvantages  are  obvious.  For  example,  the  priests  are 
responsible  for  a  considerable  amount  of  fornication  and  freticide — I  do  not 
mean  so  much  by  their  personal  habits  as  by  their  keeping  so  many  of  their 
parishioners  too  poor  to  pay  for  marriages  and  baptisms.  By  the  year  16S0,  the 
papal  plan  and  the  church  method  had  worked  so  well  that  the  converted  Indians 
undertook  to  prove  themselves  men,  cap.ible  of  the  very  real  sacrament  of  man- 
hood ;  for  they  revolted  against  the  intolerable  yoke,  killed  a  great  many  of 
their  oppressors,  and  drove  these  ill-omened  birds  of  prey  from  their  repast  for 
a  while. 


<XK)  RIO   CALIENTE — RIO   CIIAMA. 

the  doors  were  narrow,  the  windows  small,  and  in  one  or 
two  houses  there  were  talc  lights  [window-panes  of  that 
material].  This  village  had  a  mill  near  it,  situated  on  the 
little  creek,  which  made  very  good  flour.  The  population 
consisted  of  civilized  Indians,  but  much  mixed  blood. 

Here  we  had  a  dance  which  is  called  the  fandango  ;  but 
there  was  one  which  was  copied  from  the  Mexicans,  is  now 
danced  in  the  first  societies  of  New  Spain,  and  has  even 
been  introduced  at  the  court  of  Madrid. 

This  village  may  contain  500  souls.  The  greatest  natural 
curiosity  is  the  warm  springs,  which  are  two  in  number, 
about  10  yards  apart,  each  affording  sufficient  water  for  a 
mill-seat.  They  appeared  to  be  impregnated  with  copper, 
and  were  more  than  33"  above  blood  heat.  From  this 
village  the  Tetaus  drove  off  2,000  horses  at  one  time,  when 
at  war  with  the  Spaniards. 

Mar.  2d.  We  marched  late,  and  passed  several  little 
mud-walled  villages  and  settlements,  all  of  which  had  round 
mud  towers  of  the  ancient  shape  and  construction,  to  defend 
the  inhabitants  from  the  intrusions  of  the  savages.  I  was 
this  day  shown  the  ruins  of  several  old  villages  which  had 
been  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Tetaus.  We  were  fre- 
quently stopped  by  the  women,  who  invited  us  into  their 
houses  to  eat ;  and  in  every  place  where  we  halted  a 
moment  there  was  a  contest  who  should  be  our  hosts.  My 
poor  lads  who  had  been  frozen  were  conducted  home  by 
old  men,  who  would  cause  their  daughters  to  dress  their 
feet,  provide  their  victuals  and  drink,  and  at  night  give 
them  the  best  bed  in  the  house.  In  short,  all  their  conduct 
brought  to  my  recollection  the  hospitality  of  the  ancient 
patriarchs,  and  caused  me  to  sigh  with  regret  at  the  cor- 
ruption of  that  noble  principle  by  the  polish  of  modern  ages. 

We  descended  the  creek  of  Aqua  Calicnte  about  12  miles, 
where  it  joined  the  river  of  Conejos  [Rio  Chama*]  from  the 

■*  Pike  joins  Rio  C.ilicnte  willi  the  Cliama  (Conejos  in  tlie  text,  by  error)  too 
near  Ojo  Caliente  .md  too  far  from  San  Juan,  but  the  sum  of  his  figures  is  about 
right.     Rio  Calicnte  does  not  seem  to  be  as  well  populated  now  as  it  was  in  his 


PUEBLO   SAN  JUAN.  6oi 

west.  This  river  was  about  30  yards  wide,  and  was  settled 
for  12  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Aqua  Caliente,  as 
the  latter  was  in  its  whole  course  from  the  village  of  that 
name.  From  where  they  form  a  junction  it  was  about  15 
miles  to  the  Rio  del  Norte,  on  the  eastern  branch  [read 
bank]  of  which  was  situated  the  village  of  St.  John's  [San 
Juan],  which  was  the  residence  of  the  president  priest  of 
the  province,  who  had  resided  in  it  40  years. 

The  house-tops  of  the  village  of  St.  John's  were  crowded, 
as  well  as  the  streets,  when  we  entered,  and  at  the  door  of 
the  public  quarters  we  were  met  by  the  president  priest. 
When  my  companion,  who  commanded  the  escort,  received 
him  in  a  street  and  embraced  him,  all  the  poor  creatures 
who  stood  round  strove  to  kiss  the  ring  or  hand  of  the  holy 
father ;  for  myself,  I  saluted  him  in  the  usual  style.  My 
men  were  conducted  into  the  quarters,  and  I  went  to  the 
house  of  the  priest,  where  we  were  treated  with  politeness. 
He  offered  us  coffee,  chocolate,  or  whatever  we  thought 
proper,  and  desired  me  to  consider  myself  at  home  in  his 
house. 

As  I  was  going,  some  time  after,  to  the  quarters  of  my 
men,  I  was  addressed  at  the  door  by  a  man  in  broken  Eng- 
lish :  "  My  friend,  I  am  very  sorry  to  sec  you  here  ;  we  are 
all  prisoners  in  this  country  and  can  never  return  ;  I  have 
been  a  prisoner  for  nearly  three  years,  and  cannot  get  out." 
I  replied  :  "  that  as  for  his  being  a  prisoner,  it  must  be  for 
some  crime  ;  that  with  respect  to  myself  I  felt  no  apprehen- 
sion ;  and  requested  him  to  speak  French,  as  I  could  hardly 
understand  his  English."  He  began  to  demand  of  me  so 
many  different   questions   on  the  mode  of  my  getting  into 

day ;  Los  Gallegos  is  a  present  place  on  this  stream.  Tiie  confluence  of  the 
two  is  at  the  point  of  a  butte,  with  the  Black  mesa  immediately  to  the  left  or 
E.;  some  of  the  present  places  thence  to  the  Rio  Grande  are  Cuchill.a,  Chili, 
and  San  Jose,  all  on  the  W.  side  of  Rio  Chama,  off  his  route,  and  not  noted  by 
him  ;  the  site  of  Chama  itself  was  on  the  other  side,  near  the  mouth.  The 
St.  John's  of  the  text,  charted  "  S"  Juan  1000,"  is  the  Tanoan  pueblo  San  Juan, 
pop.  now  40<5.  He  crosses  to  this  place  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
where  there  w.as  a  ford  or  ferry  ;  the  railroad  crosses  there  now,  at  Espafiola. 


6o2  BArTISTE   LALANDE — WM.    MORRISON. 

the  country,  my  intention,  etc.,  that  by  the  time  I  arrived  in 
the  room  of  my  men,  I  was  perfectly  satisfied  of  his  having 
been  ordered  by  some  person  to  endeavor  to  obtain  some 
confession  or  acknowledgment  of  sinister  designs  in  my  hav- 
ing appeared  on  the  frontiers,  and  some  confidential  com- 
munications which  might  implicate  me.  As  he  had  been 
rather  insolent  in  his  inquiries,  I  ordered  my  men  to  shut 
and  fasten  the  door.  I  then  told  him  that  I  believed  him 
to  be  an  emissary  sent  on  purpose  by  the  governor,  or  some 
person,  to  endeavor  to  betray  me ;  that  all  men  of  that 
description  were  scoundrels,  and  never  should  escape  pun- 
ishment, whilst  I  possessed  the  power  to  chastise  them — 
immediately  ordering  my  men  to  seize  him,  and  cautioning 
him,  at  the  same  time,  that,  if  he  cried  out,  or  made  the 
least  resistance,  I  would  be  obliged  to  make  use  of  the  saber 
which  I  had  in  my  hand.  On  this  he  was  so  much  alarmed, 
that  he  begged  me  for  God's  sake  not  to  injure  him  ;  he  also 
said  that  he  had  been  ordered  by  the  government  to  meet 
me,  and  endeavor  to  trace  out  what  and  who  I  was,  and 
what  were  my  designs,  by  endeavoring  to  produce  a  confi- 
dence in  him,  by  his  exclaiming  against  the  Spaniards  and 
complaining  of  the  tyranny  which  they  had  exercised  toward 
him.  After  this  confession,  I  ordered  my  men  to  release 
him,  and  told  him  that  I  looked  upon  him  as  too  contempt- 
ible for  further  notice  ;  but  that  he  might  tell  the  governor, 
the  next  time  he  employed  emissaries,  to  choose  those  of 
more  abilities  and  sense ;  and  that  I  questioned  if  his  Excel- 
lency would  find  the  sifting  of  us  an  easy  task. 

This  man's  name  was  Baptiste  Lalande  ; '  he  had  come 

^I  have  not  succeeded  in  identifying  Baptiste  Lalande.  One  Ale.xis  Lalande 
(his  X  mark)  appears  among  signers  of  a  document  executed  at  St.  Louis,  Oct. 
30th,  1819;  and  on  Sept.  i6th,  1809,  the  same  was  one  of  a  jury  that  con- 
victed John  Long  of  murdering  one  George  Gordon  the  previous  June  26th  ; 
and  Alexis  subsequently  swore  he  neither  spoke  nor  knew  English.  The  Wil- 
liam Morrison  of  the  s.inic  par.igraph  is  easily  discovered.  He  was  the  oldest  one 
of  several  brothers  who  came  from  Doylestown,  Bucks  Co.,  Pa.;  had  been  asso- 
ciated with  his  uncle,  Guy  Bryan,  in  business  in  Philada, ;  came  to  Kaskas- 
kia  about  1785,  and  became  prominent  as  a  merchant  there,  in  Cahokia,  and 


BOTANY   AT  SAN  JUAN.  603 

from  the  Illinois  to  the  Pawnees,  to  trade  with  goods  fur- 
nished him  by  William  Morrison,  a  gentleman  of  the  Illi- 
nois, and  thence  to  New  Mexico  with  the  goods  which  he 
had  procured,  and  established  himself  ;  he  was  the  same  man 
on  whom  Robinson  had  a  claim.  He  returned  into  the 
priest's  house  with  me,  and,  instead  of  making  any  com- 
plaint, he  in  reply  to  their  inquiries  of  who  I  was,  etc.,  in- 
formed them  that  when  he  left  Louisiana  I  was  governor  of 
the  Illinois.  This  I  presume  he  took  for  granted  from  my 
having  commanded  for  some  time  the  post  of  Kaskaskias, 
the  first  military  post  the  United  States  had  established  in 
that  country  since  the  peace ;  however,  the  report  served 
to  add  to  the  respect  with  which  my  companion  and  host 
treated  me. 

I  had  at  this  place  the  first  good  meal,  wine,  etc.,  which,  with 
the  heat  of  the  house,  and  perhaps  rather  an  immoderate  use 
of  the  refreshments  allowed  me,  produced  an  attack  of  some- 
thing like  cholera  morbus,  which  alarmed  me  considerably, 
and  made  me  determine  to  be  more  abstemious  in  future. 

This  father  was  a  great  naturalist,  or  rather  florist ;  he  had 
large  collections  of  flowers,  plants,  etc.,  and  several  works 
on  his  favorite  studies,  the  margins  and  bottoms  of  which 
were  filled  with  his  notes  in  the  Castilian  language.  As  I 
neither  had  a  natural  turn  for  botany  sufficient  to  induce 
me  to  puzzle  my  head  much  with  the  Latin,  nor  understood 
Castilian,  I  enjoyed  but  little  of  the  lectures  which  he  con- 
tinued to  give  me  for  nearly  two  hours  on  those  subjects  ; 
but,  by  the  exercise  of  a  small  degree  of  patience,  I  entirely 
acquired  the  esteem  of  this  worthy  father,  he  calling  me 
his  son,  and  lamenting  extremely  that  my  faith  had  not 
made  me  one  of  the  holy  Catholic  church. 

The  father,  being  informed  that  I  had  some  astronomical 
instruments  with  me,  expressed  a  desire  to  see  them.  All 
that  I  had  here  was  my  sextant  and  a  large  glass  which 

in  St.  Louis  ;  married  (i)  a  lady  of  Illinois  ;  (2)  in  1813,  a  daughter  of  General 
Daniel  Bissell,  U.  S.  A.;  died  1837,  at  Kaskaskia  ;  was  grandfather  of  Hon. 
William  K.  Morrison.     (Billon's  Annals,  1804-1821,  pub.  i883,  p.  219.) 


604  ASTRONOMY  AT  SAN  JUAN. 

magnified  considerably,  calculated  for  the  day  or  night , 
the  remainder  of  my  instruments  being  with  my  sergeant 
and  party.  On  his  examining  the  sextant,  and  my  show- 
ing him  the  effect  of  it  in  the  reflection  of  the  sun,  he, 
as  well  as  hundreds  who  surrounded  us,  appeared  more  sur- 
prised at  the  effect  of  the  instrument  than  any  nation  of 
savages  I  was  ever  among.  Here  an  idea  struck  me  as 
extraordinary — how  a  man  who  appeared  to  be  a  perfect 
master  of  the  ancient  languages,  a  botanist,  mineralogist, 
and  chemist,  should  be  so  ignorant  of  the  powers  of  reflec- 
tion and  the  first  principles  of  mathematics.  But  my  friend 
explained  that  enigma,  by  informing  me  of  the  care  the 
Spanish  government  took  to  prevent  any  branch  of  science 
from  being  made  a  pursuit,  which  would  have  a  tendency 
to  extend  the  views  of  the  subjects  of  the  provinces  to  the 
geography  of  their  country,  or  any  other  subject  which 
would  bring  to  view  a  comparison  of  their  local  advantages 
and  situations  with  other  countries." 

St.  John's  was  inclosed  with  a  mud  wall,  and  probably 
contained  i,ooo  souls;  its  population  consisted  principally 
of  civilized  Indians,  as  indeed  docs  that  of  all  the  villages 
of  New  Mexico,  the  whites  not  forming  one-twentieth  part 
of  the  inhabitants. 

Mar.  j(/.'     We  marched  after  breakfast,  B.  Lalande  ac- 

'  In  the  orig.  ed.  this  paragraph  appears  as  Doc.  No.  7,  p.  69,  of  the  App.  to 
I't.  3,  to  which  Pike  refers  the  reader  by  a  footnote.  But  as  it  is  out  of  place 
there,  and  also  so  short,  I  simply  run  it  into  the  present  and  proper  context. 

'  The  defective  itinerary  of  Mar.  3d  requires  attention.  We  see  that  Pike 
crossed  the  river  to  San  Juan,  whence  he  goes  down  the  E.  side  to  Santa  Fe. 
But  first  for  the  places  he  marks  on  the  W.  side  within  the  distance  to  Santa 
Fe,  and  which  are  :  1.  Abicu,  pop.  500  ;  2.  Cia,  pop.  450  ;  and  3.  Gomez,  pop. 
500.  1.  Abicu  is  marked  as  if  it  stood  near  the  mouth  of  Rio  Chama,  in  the 
vicinity  of  present  San  Antonio  and  San  Jose  ;  but  its  exact  location  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  discover.  For  this  is  the  town  now  called  Abicjuiu,  20  m.  by  the  road 
up  the  Rio  Chama  from  the  Rio  Grande,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Chama,  at  the 
mouth  of  Frijoles  (lieans)  cr.  It  is  on  the  long  and  well-known  trail  which  led 
up  the  valley  of  the  Chama  and  so  on  over  the  mountains  en  route  to  Los 
Angeles,  Cal.  2.  Cia  or  Sia  is  a  Keresan  pueblo,  with  a  present  pop.  of  about 
100.     3.  Gomez  is  the  Tanoan  pueblo  Jeniez,  misplaced  too  near  the  Rio  Grande  : 


A   GALLANT   SOLDIER  OF   THE   HOLY   CROSS.  605 

companying  us,  and  in  about  six  miles  came  to  a  village 
[Santa  Cruz],  where  I  suppose  there  were  more  than  2,000 
souls.  Here  we  halted  at  the  house  of  a  priest,  who,  under- 
standing that  I  would  not  kiss  his  hand,  would  not  present 
it  to  me.  The  conduct  and  behavior  of  a  young  priest 
who  came  in  was  such  as  in  our  country  would  have  been 
amply  sufficient  forever  to  have  banished  him  from  the 
clerical  association — strutting  about  with  a  dirk  in  his  boot, 

see  note  beyond  for  this  and  for  Cia.  The  Jemez  trail  from  San  Ildetunso 
passes  the  ruins  of  an  old  pueblo  (called  by  the  Spanish  equivalent  Pueblo 
Viejo),  on  the  edge  of  the  mesa,  say  i  >^  m.  W.  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  5  m. 
S.  W.  of  San  Ildefoiiso.  There  is  also  within  this  distance  the  Tanoan  pueblo 
of  Santa  Clara,  with  a  present  pop.  of  over  200,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of  Santa  Clara  cr.  From  San  Juan  to  Santa 
Fe  there  are  or  were  two  roads  ;  a  lower,  which  hugs  the  Rio  Grande  for  some 
distance  before  it  turns  away  from  the  river,  and  an  upper,  more  direct  course, 
probably  tliat  which  Pike  took.  In  either  case,  he  crossed  the  two  small 
streams  or  arroyos  now  known  as  Canada  and  Nambe.  Along  his  route  he 
passed  three  villages,  which  are  marked  on  the  map  and  mentioned  without 
name  in  the  text.  I.  The  first  of  these,  Santa  Cruz,  5  or  6  m.  from  San  Juan, 
is  marked  on  the  map  "  Village  1200  ";  in  1846  it  had  only  300  or  400.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Canada  near  its  mouth  ;  higher  up  on  the  same  are  the  Chimayo 
settlements  and  Potrero.  2.  The  next,  T4  m.  further,  mapped  as  "  Village 
600,"  is  Pojoaque  or  Pojuaque,  a  Tanoan  pueblo  situated  about  6  m.  up  Nambe 
cr.  At  the  mouth  of  this  stream  stood  and  stands  another  Tafioan  pueblo,  San 
Ildefonso  ;  while  Namlie,  yet  another  village  of  the  same  family,  was  located 
on  the  same  creek  about  3  m.  above  Pojoaque.  These  have  all  declined  during 
the  century,  the  Indian  pop.  of  Pojoaque  being  lately  given  as  20,  that  of  San 
Ildefonso  148,  that  of  Nambe  79.  3.  The  next  vill.ige,  "17  m."  further,  marked 
on  the  map  "  Village  600,"  is  Tesuque  (Tesugue,  Zesuqua,  etc.),  likewise  a 
Tanoan  pueblo,  now  of  less  than  100  Indians.  There  appear  to  have  been  two 
establishments  of  this  name,  3  or  4  m.  apart,  both  on  a  branch  of  Nambe  cr. ; 
the  furthest  on,  falling  in  best  with  Pike's  17  m.  from  Pojoaque,  is  only  some 
6  m.  from  Santa  Fe.  Between  Pojoaque  and  Tesuque  Pike  passed  by 
Cuyamanque  or  Cuyamunge ;  and  he  entered  Santa  Fe  from  the  N.,  by  the 
site  of  old  Fort  Marcy. 

It  should  be  particularly  observed  in  this  place  that  Pike  has  two  maps  of  this 
part  of  tlie  Rio  Grande,  which  are  discrepant  in  several  material  respects.  One 
is  his  Louisiana  map,  which  he  runs  down  to  take  in  the  Rio  Grande  to  Santa 
Fe.  On  this  his  trail  is  dotted  as  if  it  were  the  lower  one,  hugging  the  Rio 
Grande  from  Santa  Cruz  past  Santa  Clara  (and  Polvaredo)  to  San  Ildefonso, 
before  it  turned  off  to  Santa  Fe,  and  with  the  above  three  villages  all  on  his 
left  as  he  passed  ;  the  above  village  of  Abicu  is  lettered  Abricu,  and  a  certain 


6o6  VARIOUS  PUEBLOS   PASSED   AND   NOTED. 

a  cane  in  his  hand,  whispering  to  one  girl,  chucking  another 
under  the  chin,  going  out  with  a  third,  etc. 

From  this  village  [Santa  Cruz]  to  another  small  village 
[Pojoaque],  of  500  inhabitants,  is  seven  miles.  At  each  of 
those  villages  is  a  small  stream,  sufficient  for  the  purpose  of 
watering  their  fields.  At  the  father's  house  we  took  coffee. 
From  this  village  [Pojoaque]  it  was  17  miles  to  another 
[Tesuque],  of  400  civilized  Indians.  Here  we  changed 
horses  and  prepared  for  entering  the  capital  [Santa  F6'], 

village  of  "  Pino  "  is  set  at  the  mouth  of  Rio  Santa  Fe.  I  liave  here  gone  by 
his  New  Spain  map,  which  may  be  presumed  to  be  his  best  delineation  of 
Rio  Grande  country,  and  which  certainly  fits  in  best  with  the  text  which  we 
here  follow. 

To  finish  reckoning  the  towns  Pike  maps  north  of  Santa  Fe,  we  must  note 
the  following:  i.  "  Enbudo  500"  on  both  maps.  2.  "  Tranpa  450"  on  one 
map,  and  "  Tramha  450"  on  the  other.  3.  "  Pecucio  500"  on  one  map,  and 
"  Pecucis  500"  on  the  other.  These  places  all  lie  off  to  the  N.  E.,  in  the 
direction  of  Taos.  i.  Embudo  or  Embuda  is  a  town  on  a  creek  of  the  same 
name,  which  makes  into  the  Rio  Grande  from  the  E.,  about  25  m.  by  the  road 
from  San  Juan.  The  location  is  a  couple  of  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  creek, 
which  falls  into  the  Rio  Grande  at  a  place  called  Rinconada  on  account  of  its 
cornered  or  shut-in  site  among  the  surrounding  mesas.  It  is  near  the  scene  of 
an  engagement  in  Jan.,  1S47,  when  Captain  John  H.  K.  Burgwin  of  the  1st 
U.  S.  Dragoons  defeated  the  insurgents  ;  he  died  Feb.  7th  of  wounds  received 
¥eh.  4th  in  the  assault  on  Taos.  2,  Trampas  is  a  town  on  the  creek  of  that 
name,  a  main  tributary  of  the  Embudo,  8  or  10  ra.  above  the  town  of  Embudo. 
You  pass  Trampas  about  halfway  on  the  main  upper  road  from  Santa  Fe 
to  Taos,  about  7  m.  N.  of  Truchas.  3.  Picuris  is  an  old  Tanoan  pueblo,  on 
another  branch  of  this  same  Embudo  cr.,  with  a  present  pop.  of  100. 

All  the  foregoing  places  are  under  the  shadow  of  the  lofty  mountains  to  the 
E.,  whence  the  several  streams  named  also  make  down  into  the  Rio  Grande 
valley.  Some  of  their  peaks  are  :  Lake,  12,400  feet  ;  Baldy,  12,600  feet ;  the 
Cone,  12,700  feet;  Truches,  13,100  feet;  and  the  more  isolated  "  U.  S." 
mountain,  10,700  feet.  On  the  other  side  of  this  range  are  the  headwaters  of  Rio 
Canada — that  great  fork  of  the  Arkansaw  better  known  as  the  "  Canadian  "  r. , 
without  the  //AA-  .■  see  note  ",  p.  558. 

*  Santa  Fe  is  not  "  on  the  Rio  Grande,"  as  often  loosely  said,  but  at  least 
20  m.  (direct)  E.  of  that  river,  and  considerably  further  than  this  up  from  the 
mouth  of  the  small  stream  on  which  it  is  situated,  in  a  rather  out-of-the-way 
place.  This  creek,  Rio  de  Santa  Fe,  or  Rio  Chacito,  comes  down  from  the 
lofty  Santa  Fe  mts.  under  which  the  town  nestles,  and  runs  with  a  general 
S.  W.  course  into  the  Rio  Gr.inde  between  the  town  of  Pena  Blanca  and  the  old 
pueblo  of  Cochiti — places  3  m.  apart.     Cochiti  is  a  Keresan  pueblo  on  the  W. 


THE  ANCIENT  CAPITAL  OF   SANTA    FE.  607 

which  we  came  in  sight  of  in  the  evening.  It  is  situated 
along  the  banks  of  a  small  [Santa  Fc]  creek,  which  comes 
down  from  the  mountains,  and  runs  west  to  the  Rio  del 
Norte.  The  length  of  the  capital  on  the  creek  may  be 
estimated  at  one  mile ;  it  is  but  three  streets  in  width. 

Its  appearance  from  a  distance  struck  my  mind  with  the 
same  effect  as  a  fleet  of  the  flat-bottomed  boats  which  are 
seen  in  the  spring  and  fall  seasons,  descending  the  Ohio 
river.  There  are  two  churches,  the  magnificence  of  whose 
steeples  form  a  striking  contrast  to  the  miserable  appear- 
ance of  the  houses."  On  the  north  side  of  the  town  is  the 
square  of  soldiers'  houses,  equal  to  120  or  140  on  each  flank. 
The  public  square  is  in  the  center  of  the  town  ;  on  the 
north  side  of  it  is  situated  the  palace,  as  they  term  it,  or 
government  house,  with  the  quarters  for  guards,  etc.     The 

bank  of  the  Rio  Grande  ;  present  pop.  perhaps  250.  Pena  Blanca,  often  called 
Pina  Blanca,  on  the  E.  bank,  is  a  place  where  the  Rio  Grande  can  be  forded, 
to  take  the  old  road  from  Santa  Fe  to  Fort  Wingate. 

Santa  Fe  was  first  entered  and  occupied  by  the  Amiy  of  the  West  under 
General  Stephen  Watts  Kearny,  Aug.  i8th,  1846 — his  cowardly  Excellency 
Don  Manuel  Arniijo  having  blustered  and  promptly  evacuated  the  place  on  the 
approach  of  our  forces.  The  site  of  Fort  Marcy  was  selected  by  Lieutenants 
W.  H.  Emory  and  J.  F.  Gilmer,  in  a  commanding  position  600  yards  from  the 
plaza  of  the  town,  and  the  work  began  on  the  23d.  On  Sept.  22d  General 
Kearny  issued  his  manifesto  for  the  government  of  New  Mexico,  under  the 
authority  of  the  President  of  the  United  States  ;  appointing  as  governor  Charles 
Bent  (soon  afterward  cruelly  massacred  at  Taos),  and  as  secretary  Donaciano 
Vigil  ;  other  territorial  officers  appointed  were  Richard  Dallum,  Francis  P. 
Blair,  Charles  Blummer,  Eugene  Lertensdorfer,  Joab  Houghton,  Antonio  Jose 
Otero,  and  Carl  Bavbien — the  last  three  as  judges  of  the  supreme  court.  A  copy 
of  the  original  document,  in  Spanish,  is  given  in  Lieutenant  J.  W.  Abert's  rei)ort 
Ex.  Doc.  No.  41,  30th  Cong.,  ist  Sess.,  pub.  1848,  p.  453.  The  population  of 
Santa  Fe  at  that  time  was  somewhere  about  3,000  ;  it  is  now  only  a  little  over 
6,ocx3.  It  was  probably  the  site  of  a  pueblo  before  1500  ;  but  the  present  town 
has  no  authentic  history  back  of  1608,  when  it  was  founded  by  Juan  de  Oiiate 
as  a  capital  or  seat  of  government.  The  town  may  boast  an  unbroken  record 
as  such  from  that  day  to  this,  in  spite  of  changing  hands  several  times. 

'  Lieutenant  J.  W.  Abert  supposes  that  these  were  those  long  known  as  the 
parroquia  or  parish  church,  and  the  capilla  de  los  soldados  or  military  chapel  ; 
Ex.  Doc.  No.  41,  30th  Cong.,  1st  Sess.,  pub.  1848,  p.  454,  where  an  account 
of  them  and  services  held  in  them,  as  these  were  in  1846,  may  be  read.  A  plate 
shows  the  parish  church,  with  "  Fort  Marez"  (Marcy)  in  the  distance. 


6o8  allencaster's  interrogation. 

other  side  of  the  square  is  occupied  by  the  clergy  and  public 
officers.  In  general  the  houses  have  a  shed  before  the 
front,  some  of  which  have  a  flooring  of  brick ;  the  conse- 
quence is  that  the  streets  are  very  narrow,  say  in  general 
25  feet.  The  supposed  population  is  4,500  souls.  On  our 
entering  the  town  the  crowd  was  great,  and  followed  us  to 
the  government  house.  When  we  dismounted  we  were 
ushered  in  through  various  rooms,  the  floors  of  which  were 
covered  with  skins  of  buffalo,  bear,  or  some  other  animal. 
We  waited  in  a  chamber  for  some  time,  until  his  Excellency 
appeared,  when  we  rose,  and  the  following  conversation 
took  place  in  French  : 

Governor.  Do  you  speak  French  ? 

Pike.  Yes,  sir. 

Governor.  You  come  to  reconnoiter  our  country,  do  you? 

Pike.  I  marched  to  reconnoiter  our  own. 

Governor.  In  what  character  are  you  ? 

Pike.  In  my  proper  character,  an  officer  of  the  United 
States  army. 

Governor.  And  this  Robinson — is  he  attached  to  your 
party  ? 

Pike.  No. 

Governor.  Do  you  know  him  ? 

Pike.  Yes ;  he  is  from  St.  Louis.  (I  understood  the  doc- 
tor had  been  sent  45  leagues  from  Santa  Fe,  under  a  strong 
guard.  The  haughty  and  unfriendly  reception  of  the  governor 
induced  me  to  believe  war  must  have  been  declared,  and 
that  if  it  were  known  Dr.  Robinson  had  accompanied  me,  he 
would  be  treated  with  great  severity.  I  was  correct  in  saying 
he  was  not  attached  to  my  party,  for  he  was  only  a  volunteer, 
who  could  not  properly  be  said  to  be  one  of  my  command.) 

Governor.  How  many  men  have  you? 

Pike.  Fifteen. 

Governor.  And  this  Robinson  makes  sixteen  ? 

Pike.  I  have  already  told  your  Excellency  that  he  does 
not  belong  to  my  party,  and  shall  answer  no  more  inter- 
rogatories on  that  subject. 


pike's  rejoinder.  609 

Governor.  When  did  you  leave  St.  Louis? 

Pike.  July  15th. 

Governor.  I  think  you  marched  in  June. 

Pike.  No,  sir ! 

Governor.  Well!  Return  with  Mr.  Bartholomew  to  his 
house ;  come  here  again  at  seven  o'clock,  and  bring  your 
papers. 

On  which  we  returned  to  the  house  of  my  friend  Bartholo- 
mew, who  seemed  much  hurt  at  the  interview. 

At  the  door  of  the  government  house,  I  met  the  old 
Frenchman  to  whom  I  had  given  the  scrap  of  paper  on  the 
27th  of  February.  He  had  left  us  in  the  morning,  and,  as  I 
suppose,  hurried  in  to  make  his  report,  and  I  presume  had 
presented  this  paper  to  his  Excellency.  I  demanded,  with  a 
look  of  contempt,  if  he  had  made  his  report  ?  To  which 
he  made  reply  in  a  humble  tone,  and  began  to  excuse  him 
self;  but  I  did  not  wait  to  hear  his  excuses.  At  the  hour 
appointed  we  returned,  when  the  governor  demanded  my 
papers.  I  told  him  that  I  understood  my  trunk  had  been 
taken  possession  of  by  his  guard.  He  expressed  surprise, 
immediately  ordered  it  in,  and  also  sent  for  one  Solomon 
Colly,  formerly  a  sergeant  in  our  army,  and  one  of  the  un- 
fortunate company  of  [Captain  Philip]  Nolan.  We  were 
seated,  when  he  ordered  Colly  to  demand  my  name,  to 
which  I  replied.  He  then  demanded  in  what  province  I 
was  born.  I  answered  in  English,  and  then  addressed  his 
Excellency  in  French,  and  told  him  that  I  did  not  think  it 
necessary  to  enter  into  such  a  catechising  ;  that  if  he  would 
be  at  the  pains  of  reading  my  commission  from  the  United 
States,  and  my  orders  from  my  general,  it  would  be  all  that 
I  presumed  would  be  necessary  to  convince  his  Excellency 
that  I  came  with  no  hostile  intentions  toward  the  Sj^anish 
government ;  that,  on  the  contrary,  I  had  express  instruc- 
tions to  guard  against  giving  them  offense  or  alarm  ;  and 
that  his  Excellency  would  be  convinced  that  myself  and 
party  were  rather  to  be  considered  objects  on  which  the  so 
much  celebrated  generosity  of  the  Spanish  nation  might  be 


6lO  EXAMINATION   OF   PAPERS. 

exercised,  than  proper  subjects  to  occasion  the  opposite 
sentiments. 

He  then  requested  to  see  my  commission  and  orders, 
which  I  read  to  him  in  French  ;  on  which  lie  got  up  and 
gave  me  his  hand,  for  the  first  time,  and  said  he  was  happy 
to  be  acquainted  with  me  as  a  man  of  honor  and  a  gentle- 
man ;  that  I  could  retire  this  evening  and  take  my  trunk 
with  me  ;  and  that  on  the  morrow  he  would  make  further 
arrangements. 

Mar.  ^tli.  I  was  desired  by  the  governor  to  bring  up  my 
trunk,  in  order  that  he  might  make  some  observations  on  my 
route,  etc.  When  he  ordered  me  to  take  my  trunk  over 
night,  I  had  conceived  that  the  examination  of  papers  was 
over.  As  many  of  my  documents  were  intrusted  to  the 
care  of  my  men,  and  I  found  that  the  inhabitants  were  treat- 
ing the  men  with  liquor,  I  was  fearful  they  would  become 
intoxicated,  and  through  inadvertency  betray  or  discover 
the  papers.  I  had  therefore  obtained  several  of  them  and 
put  them  in  the  trunk,  when  an  officer  arrived  for  myself 
and  it,  and  I  had  no  opportunity  of  taking  them  out  again 
before  I  was  taken  up  to  the  palace.  I  discovered  instantly 
that  I  had  been  deceived,  but  it  was  too  late  to  remedy 
the  evil. 

After  examining  the  contents  of  my  trunk,  he  informed 
me  that  I  must,  with  my  troops,  go  to  Chihuahua,  province 
of  Biscay,  to  appear  before  the  commandant-general.  He 
added  :  "  You  have  the  key  of  your  trunk  in  your  own  pos- 
session ;  the  trunk  will  be  put  under  charge  of  the  officer 
who  commands  your  escort."  The  following  conversation 
then  took  place : 

Pike.  If  we  go  to  Chihuahua  we  must  be  considered  as 
prisoners  of  war  ? 

Governor.  By  no  means. 

Pike.  You  have  already  disarmed  my  men  without  my 
knowledge  ;  arc  their  arms  to  be  returned  or  not? 

Governor.  They  can  receive  them  any  moment. 

Pike.  But,  sir,  I  cannot  consent  to  be  led  three  or  four 


ORDERED   TO   CHIHUAHUA.  6ll 

hundred  leagues  out  of  my  route,  without  its  being  by  force 
of  arms. 

Governor.  I  know  you  do  not  go  voluntarily ;  but  I  will 
give  you  a  certificate  from  under  my  hand  of  my  having 
obliged  you  to  march. 

Pike.  I  will  address  you  a  letter  on  the  subject." 

Governor.  You  will  dine  with  me  to-day,  and  march 
afterward  to  a  village  about  six  miles  distant,  escorted  by 
Captain  Anthony  D'Almansa,  with  a  detachment  of  dra- 
goons, who  will  accompany  you  to  where  the  remainder  of 
your  escort  is  now  waiting  for  you,  under  the  command  of 
the  officer  [Don  Facundo  Malgares]  who  commanded  the 
expedition  to  the  Pawnees. 

Pike.  I  would  not  wish  to  be  impertinent  in  my  observa- 
tions to  your  Excellency  ;  but  pray,  sir  !  do  you  not  think  it 
was  a  greater  infringement  of  our  territory  to  send  600  miles 
in  the  Pawnees',  than  for  me  with  our  small  party  to  come 
on  the  frontiers  of  yours  with  an  intent  to  descend  Red 
river? 

Governor.  I  do  not  understand  you. 

Pike.  No,  sir !  any  further  explanation  is  unnecessary. 

I  then  returned  to  the  house  of  my  friend  Bartholomew 
and  wrote  my  letter  to  his  Excellency,  which  I  had  not 
finished  before  we  were  hurried  to  dinner. 

In  the  morning  I  received  from  the  governor,  by  the 
hands  of  his  private  secretary,  $21,  notifying  to  mc  that  it 
was  the  amount  of  the  king's  allowance  for  my  party  to  Chi- 
huahua, and  that  it  would  be  charged  to  me  on  account  of 
my  subsistence.  From  this  I  clearly  understood  that  it  was 
calculated  that  the  expenses  of  the  party  to  Chihuahua 
would  be  defrayed  by  the  United  States.  I  also  received  by 
the  same  hands,  from  his  Excellency,  a  shirt  and  neck-cloth, 
with  his  compliments,  wishing  me  to  accept  of  them,  "  as 
they  had  been    made    in    Spain    by    his   sister  and    never 

'"The  governor's  certificate  .ind  Tike's  remonstrance,  here  in  mention,  were 
given  in  the  App.  to  I't.  3,  of  which  they  formed  Docs.  Nos.  9  and  8,  and  will 
be  found  in  due  course,  lieyond. 


6l2  NOT   EXACTLY  A   FULL   DRESS   AFFAIR. 

worn  by  any  person."  For  this  I  returned  him  my  sincere 
acknowledgments  ;  and  it  may  not  be  deemed  irrelevant  if 
I  explain  at  this  period  the  miserable  appearance  we  made, 
and  the  situation  we  were  in,  with  the  causes  of  it. 

When  we  left  our  interpreter  and  one  man  [Vasquez  and 
Smith]  on  the  Arkansaw,  we  were  obliged  to  carry  all  our  bag- 
gage on  our  backs ;  consequently,  that  which  was  the  most 
useful  was  preferred  to  the  few  ornamental  parts  of  dress  we 
possessed.  The  ammunition  claimed  our  first  care  ;  tools 
were  secondary ;  leather,  leggings,  boots,  and  mockinsons 
were  the  next  in  consideration.  Consequently,  I  left  all  my 
uniform,  clothing,  trunks,  etc.,  as  did  the  men,  except  what 
they  had  on  their  backs  ;  conceiving  that  which  would  secure 
the  feet  and  legs  from  the  cold  to  be  preferable  to  any  less 
indispensable  portion  of  our  dress.  Thus,  when  we  presented 
ourselves  at  Santa  Fe,  I  was  dressed  in  a  pair  of  blue  trousers, 
mockinsons,  blanket  coat,  and  a  cap  made  of  scarlet  cloth 
lined  with  fox-skin  ;  my  poor  fellows  were  in  leggings,  breech 
cloths  and  leather  coats,  and  there  was  not  a  hat  in  the 
whole  party.  This  appearance  was  extremely  mortifying  to 
us  all,  especially  as  soldiers;  although  some  of  the  ofificers 
used  frequently  to  observe  to  me,  that  "  worth  made  the 
man,"  etc.,  with  a  variety  of  adages  to  the  same  amount. 
Yet  the  first  impression  made  on  the  ignorant  is  hard  to 
eradicate  ;  and  a  greater  proof  cannot  be  given  of  the  igno- 
rance of  the  common  people,  than  their  asking  if  we  lived  in 
houses,  or  in  camps  like  the  Indians,  and  if  we  wore  hats  in 
our  country.  Those  observations  are  sufficient  to  show  the 
impression  our  uncouth  appearance  made  amongst  them. 

The  dinner  at  the  governor's  was  rather  splendid,  having  a 
variety  of  dishes  and  wines  of  the  southern  provinces ;  and 
when  his  Excellency  was  a  little  warmed  with  the  influence  of 
cheering  liquor,  he  became  very  sociable.  He  informed  me 
that  there  existed  a  serious  difficulty  between  the  comman- 
dant-general of  the  internal  provinces  and  the  Marquis  Caso 
Calvo,  who  had  given  permission  to  Mr.  [William]  Dunbar 
to  explore  the  Ouchata  [Washita],  contrary  to  the  general 


DEPARTURE   FROM   SANTE   FE.  613 

principles  of  their  government ;  in  consequence  of  which  the 
former  had  made  representations  against  the  latter  to  the 
court  of  Madrid.  After  dinner  his  Excellency  ordered  his 
coach ;  Captain  D'Almansa,  Bartholomew,  and  myself 
entered  with  him,  and  he  drove  out  three  miles.  He  was 
drawn  by  six  mules  and  attended  by  a  guard  of  cavalry. 
When  we  parted  his  adieu  was,  "  remember  Allencastcr,  in 
peace  or  war." 

I  left  a  note  for  my  sergeant,  with  instructions  to  keep  up 
good  discipline  and  not  be  alarmed  or  discouraged.  As  I 
was  about  leaving  the  public  square,  poor  Colly,  the  Ameri- 
can prisoner,  came  up  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  and  hoped  I 
would  not  forget  him  when  I  arrived  in  the  United  States. 

After  we  left  the  governor  we  rode  on  about  three  miles 
to  a  defile,  where  we  halted  for  the  troops.  I  soon  found 
that  the  old  soldier  who  accompanied  us  and  commanded 
our  escort  was  fond  of  a  drop  of  the  cheering  liquor,  as  his 
boy  carried  a  bottle  in  his  cochmelies  [read  cojinillos],  a 
small  leather  case  attached  to  the  saddle  for  the  purpose 
of  carrying  small  articles."  We  were  accompanied  by  my 
friend  Bartholomew.  We  ascended  a  hill  and  galloped  on 
until  about  ten  o'clock  ;  it  was  snowing  hard  all  the  time. 
Then  we  came  to  a  precipice,  which  we  descended  with 
great  difficulty,  from  the  obscurity  of  the  night,  to  the 
small  village, '^  where  we  put  up  in  the  quarters  of  the  priest, 
he  being  absent. 

"  Pike  has  the  thing  all  right,  but  under  a  curious  name  I  never  saw  else- 
where, and  might  not  have  recognized,  had  I  not  happened  to  hear  cojinillo 
myself  in  New  Mexico.  This  word  is  probably  provincial  or  dialectal,  as  it  is 
not  found  in  ordinary  Sp.  dictionaries  ;  in  form  it  is  a  diminutive  of  cojiit,  name 
of  a  certain  saddle-pad  or  cushion,  precisely  equivalent  to  E.  "pillion."  It 
turns  up  now  and  then  in  books  about  Mexico,  as  for  example  :  "  The  corazas 
[covers]  of  travelling  saddles  are  also  provided  with  several  pockets  called 
coginillos — a  most  excellent  contrivance  for  carrying  a  lunch  or  a  bottle,  or  any- 
thing to  which  convenient  access  may  be  desired,"  Gregg,  Comm.  Pra.,  I.  1844, 
p.  214. 

"  Marked  "  Vitior  200"  on  Pike's  map.  I  do  not  recognize  this  name,  but 
it  is  easy  to  pick  out  Pike's  road  to  San  Domingo,  which  he  reaches  to-morrow, 
and  locate  his  Vitior  at  or  within  a  mile  of  a  place  on  the  Rio  Santa  Fe  now 


6l4  EN   ROUTE   TO   CHIHUAHUA. 

After  supper,  Captain  D'Almansa  related  to  me  that  he 
had  served  his  Catholic  majesty  40  years  to  arrive  at  the 
rank  he  then  held,  which  was  that  of  a  first  lieutenant  in  the 
line  and  a  captain  by  brevet,  whilst  he  had  seen  various 
young  Europeans  promoted  over  his  head.  After  the  old 
man  had  taken  his  quantum  sufficit  and  gone  to  sleep,  my 
friend  and  myself  sat  up  for  some  hours,  he  explaining  to 
me  their  situation,  the  great  desire  they  felt  for  a  change  of 
afifairs  and  an  open  trade  with  the  United  States.  I  pointed 
out  to  him  with  chalk  on  the  floor  the  geographical  connec- 
tion and  route  from  North  Mexico  and  Louisiana,  and 
finally  gave  him  a  certificate  addressed  to  the  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  stating  his  friendly  disposition  and  his  being 
a  man  of  influence.  This  paper  he  seemed  to  estimate  as  a 
very  valuable  acquisition,  as  he  was  decidedly  of  opinion  we 
would  invade  that  country  the  ensuing  spring  ;  and  not  all 
my  assurances  to  the  contrary  could  eradicate  that  idea. 

Mar.  5th.  As  it  snowed  very  hard  in  the  morning,  we  did 
not  march  until  eleven  o'clock.  In  the  meantime,  Bartholo- 
mew and  myself  paid  a  visit  to  an  old  invalid  Spaniard,  who 
received  us  in  the  most  hospitable  manner,  giving  us  choco- 
late, etc.  He  made  many  inquiries  as  to  our  government 
and  religion,  and  of  [Bartholomew],  who  did  not  fail  to  give 
them  the  brightest  coloring;  he  being  enthusiastic  in  their 
favor  from  his  many  conversations  with  me,  and  drawing 
comparisons  with  his  own  country.  What  appeared  to  the 
old  veteran  most  extraordinary  was  that  we  ever  changed 

called  La  Bajada,  which  is  ll{  m.  from  San  Domingo.  In  starting  from 
Santa  Fe  for  the  Rio  Grande  at  this  point,  you  do  not  follow  down  the  creek 
(Rio  de  Santa  Fe  or  Rio  Chacito),  but  bear  away  from  it  on  higher  ground  be- 
tween it  and  Arroyo  Hondo,  pass  a  little  place  calle<l  Agua  Fria,  and  then 
have  a  choice  of  two  roads.  One  of  these  bears  off  more  to  the  left,  and 
strikes  the  creek  at  the  hamlet  of  Cieneguilla,  whence  you  follow  the  creek  in 
the  canon  to  La  Bajada  ;  but  the  straighter  road  keeps  on  S.  W. ,  crosses  the 
creek  higher  up,  cuts  across  the  mesa  south  of  Tetilla  Peak,  and  suddenly 
pitches  down  into  the  creek  at  the  mouth  of  the  caiion,  where  La  Bajada  is  situ- 
ated. This  is  what  I  suppose  Pike  means  by  saying  he  ascended  a  hill  and 
then  descended  a  precipice.  If  he  went  that  way,  he  roile  15  m.  from  Santa 
Fe  to  "  Vitior"  or  La  Bajada.     (See  Vitior  in  Index.) 


PUEBLO   SAN   DOMINGO.  615 

our  president.  I  was  obliged  to  draw  his  powers  on  a 
nearer  affinity  with  those  of  a  monarch  than  they  really  are, 
in  order  that  they  might  comprehend  his  station  and  that 
there  was  a  perfect  freedom  of  conscience  permitted  in  our 
country.  He,  however,  expressed  his  warm  approbation  of 
the  measure.  In  the  priest's  house  at  which  we  put  up 
were  two  orphan  girls,  who  were  adopted  by  him  in  their 
infancy  and  at  this  time  constituted  his  whole  family. 

I  bid  adieu  to  my  friend  Bartholomew,  and  could  not 
avoid  shedding  tears ;  he  embraced  me  and  all  my  men. 

We  arrived  at  the  village  of  St.  Domingo  "  at  two  o'clock. 
It  is,  as  I  supposed,  nine  miles  [to  this  place,  which  is  sit- 
uated] on  the  east  side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  is  a  large 
village,  the  population  being  about  1,000  natives,  generally 
governed  by  its  own  chief.  The  chiefs  of  the  villages  were 
distinguished  by  a  cane  with  a  silver  head  and  black  tassel. 
On  our  arrival  at  the  pubhc  house  Captain  D'Almansa  was 
waited  on  by  the  governor,  cap  in  hand,  to  receive  his  orders 

"  Present  Santo  Domingo,  or  San  Domingo,  is  at  the  mouth  of  Galisteo  cr., 
with  the  pueblo  immediately  below  it,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  4  or 
5  m.  below  Peiia  Blanca.  Pike  charts  it  by  name,  and  lays  down  this  creek. 
The  plate  opp.  p.  462  of  Lieutenant  Abert's  report  shows  the  pueblo  as  it  was 
in  1846.  Part  of  the  road  from  Santa  Fe  to  San  Domingo  was  bad,  on  account 
of  the  rocks  in  the  canon  of  the  little  stream,  and  the  sandy  dunes  near  the 
pueblo.  On  getting  out  of  the  canon  onto  the  plain,  Pike  had  on  his  left  the 
Sandia  range,  while  ahead,  but  somewhat  to  the  right,  rose  the  Jemez  mts. 
The  Galisteo  was  probably  quite  dry.  There  were  no  trees  to  be  seen  till  the 
Cottonwood  fringe  of  the  Rio  Grande  came  into  view.  The  pueblo  did  not  vary 
much  for  a  century.  It  had  about  800  pop.  when  I  passed  through  in  1864  ; 
a  very  recent  census  yielded  6go.  As  Pike  says,  these  Indians  are  "of  the 
nation  of  Keres,"  i.  e.,  of  the  Kere.san  family.  Il.-id  he  taken  the  ford  across 
the  Rio  Grande,  which  was  used  here  at  times  when  the  water  was  not  more  than 
three  or  four  feet  deep,  though  300  yards  wide,  and  gone  westward  about  26  m. 
to  the  Rio  Jemez,  he  would  have  come  upon  the  Tanoan  town  of  Jemez,  a  dead- 
alive  little  place,  which  has  held  its  population  of  400  or  500  for  many  genera- 
tions, and  long  sustained  its  old  adobe  church.  Twelve  miles  above  Jemez,  at 
a  place  on  the  river  called  Ojos  Calientes  from  its  hot  sjirings,  were  and  may  still 
be  seen  the  ruins  of  another  church,  a  view  of  which,  as  they  appeared  in  1849, 
is  given  on  pi.  15  of  Simpson's  report  already  cited.  Jemez  is  the  place  Pike 
means  by  the  "  Gomez  300"  which  he  charts  ;  only  it  is  located  too  near  the 
Rio  Grande  on  his  map.     (See  Santo  Domingo  in  Index.) 


6l6  BIMETALLISM   IN   SAINTLY   GUISE. 

as  to  furnishing  our  quarters  and  ourselves  with  wood, 
water,  provisions,  etc.  The  house  itself  contained  nothing 
but  bare  walls  and  small  grated  windows,  which  brought  to 
my  recollection  the  representations  of  the  Spanish  inhab- 
itants given  by  Dr.  [John]  Moore  [the  Scottish  writer, 
1730-1802],  in  his  travels  through  Spain,  Italy,  etc.  This 
village,  as  well  as  those  of  St.  Philip's  and  St.  Bartholomew, 
[San  Felipe  and  San  Bartolome]  is  of  the  nation  of  Keres 
[or  QueresJ  many  of  whom  do  not  yet  speak  good  Spanish. 

After  we  had  refreshed  ourselves  a  little,  the  captain  sent 
for  the  keys  of  the  church  ;  and  when  we  entered  it,  I  was 
much  astonished  to  find,  inclosed  in  mud-brick  walls,  many 
rich  paintings,  and  the  saint  (Domingo)  as  large  as  life, 
elegantly  ornamented  with  gold  and  silver.  The  captain 
made  a  slight  inclination  of  the  head,  and  intimated  to  me 
that  this  was  the  patron  of  the  village.  We  then  ascended 
into  the  gallery,  where  the  choir  are  generally  placed.  In 
an  outside  hall  was  placed  another  image  of  the  saint,  less 
richly  ornamented,  where  the  populace  repaired  daily  and 
knelt  to  return  thanks  for  benefactions  received,  or  to  ask 
new  favors.  Many  young  girls,  indeed,  chose  the  time  of 
our  visit  to  be  on  their  knees  before  the  holy  patron.  From 
the  flat  roof  of  the  church  we  had  a  delightful  view  of  the 
village  ;  the  Rio  del  Norte  [and  Jemez  mountains]  on  the 
west ;  the  mountains  of  St.  Dies  [San  Diaz,  i.  c,  Sandia]  to 
the  south  ;  the  valley  round  the  town,  on  which  were  nu- 
merous herds  of  goats,  sheep,  and  asses — upon  the  whole, 
this  was  one  of  the  handsomest  views  in  New  Mexico. 

Mar.  6th.  Marched  down  the  Rio  del  Norte  on  the  east 
side.  Snow  one  foot  deep.  Passed  large  flocks  of  goats. 
At  [opposite]  the  village  of  St.  Philip's  [San  Felipe  "]  wc 

"Marked  "  S".  Pliilip  de  queies  1000"  on  the  map,  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
Rio  Grande.  This  is  the  puelilo  of  San  Felipe,  situated  7  m.  S.  of  ,S,in  Domingo, 
opp.  the  mouth  of  Tuerto  cr.,  which  falls  in  from  the  E.,  a  little  below  the  gulch 
or  ravine  called  Arroyo  del  Espinazo.  The  town  of  Covero,  or  Cubcro,  is  5  m. 
above,  on  the  same  (W.)  side  of  the  Rio  Grande.  The  large  stream  which 
Pike  lays  down  on  that  side,  just  below  his  St.  Philip's,  is  the  Rio  Jcmcz,  which 
falls  in  between  Algodones  and  Hernalillo.     The  word  "  (jueres  "  of  the  map  is 


SAN  FELIPE — FATHER   RUr.I.  617 

crossed  [the  Rio  Grande  to  the  town  over]  a  bridge  of  eight 
arches,  constructed  as  follows :  the  pillars  made  of  neat 
woodwork,  something  similar  to  a  crate,  and  in  the  form  of 
a  keel-boat,  the  sharp  end  or  bow  to  the  current  ;  this  crate 
or  butment  was  filled  with  stone,  in  which  the  river  lodged 
sand,  clay,  etc.,  until  it  had  become  of  a  tolerably  firm  con- 
sistency. On  the  top  of  the  pillars  were  laid  pine  logs, 
lengthways,  squared  on  two  sides ;  being  joined  pretty 
close,  these  made  a  tolerable  bridge  for  horses,  but  would 
not  have  been  very  safe  for  carriages,  as  there  were  no 
hand-rails. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  house  of  the  father,  we  were  received 
in  a  very  polite  and  friendly  manner ;  and  before  my  de- 
parture we  seemed  to  have  been  friends  for  years  past.  Dur- 
ing our  dinner,  at  which  we  had  a  variety  of  wines,  we  were 
entertained  with  music,  composed  of  bass  drums,  French 
horns,  violins,  and  cymbals.  We  likewise  entered  into  a 
long  and  candid  conversation  as  to  the  Creoles,  wherein  he 
spared  neither  the  government  nor  its  administrators.  As 
to  government  and  religion.  Father  Rubi  displayed  a  liber- 
ality of  opinion  and  a  fund  of  knowledge  which  astonished 
me.  He  showed  me  a  statistical  table  on  which  he  had,  in 
a  regular  manner,  taken  the  whole  province  of  New  Mexico 

the  same  as  Keres  of  the  above  text  ;  /.  e.,  San  Felipe  is  a  town  of  the  Keresan 
nation.  The  place  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  which  here  straitens 
to  100  yards  or  so,  about  6  m.  above  Algodones.  Pike's  town  was  no  doubt 
ihe  fresfiit  San  Felipe — the  one  at  the  foot  of  the  mesa,  and  not  that  commonly 
called  old  San  Felipe,  about  a  mile  off,  upon  the  edge  of  the  mesa  ;  for  this 
was  in  ruins  half  a  century  if  not  a  century  ago,  and  the  pueblos  are  all  slow  to 
change,  either  for  better  or  worse.  It  has  taken  nearly  100  years  to  reduce  San 
Felipe  from  the  population  which  Pike  estimated  at  looo  to  the  550  of  a  very 
recent  census.  It  has  been  more  Mexicanized  than  some  of  the  other  Indian 
towns.  Lieutenant  Abert,  speaking  of  the  bridge  which  Pike  mentions,  says 
that  when  he  was  there,  Oct.  loth,  1846,  it  had  been  entirely  swept  away,  and 
the  people  had  to  ford  the  Rio  Grande.  The  plate  opp.  p.  461  of  his  report 
shows  some  of  them  in  the  act.  Another  view  of  San  Felipe  is  given  in  the 
same  volume,  opp.  p.  3g,  in  the  report  of  Lieutenant  W.  H.  Emory,  who  says 
that  "  the  hardships,  trials,  and  perseverance  of  the  gallant  Pike  "  came  forcilily 
to  his  mind  when  he  first  caught  sight  of  the  Rio  Grande,  Sept.  2d,  1846,  at 
San  Uomingo,  whose  population  he  judged  to  be  about  600. 


6l8  INGENIOUS  PHILOLOGY. 

by  villages,  beginning  at  Tous  [Taos],  on  the  northwest,  and 
ending  with  Valencia  on  the  south,  giving  their  latitude, 
longitude,  and  population,  whether  natives  or  Spaniards, 
civilized  or  barbarous.  Christians  or  pagans,  numbers,  names 
of  the  nations,  when  converted,  how  governed,  military  force, 
clergy,  salary,  etc. — in  short,  a  complete  geographical,  statis- 
tical, and  historical  sketch  of  the  province.  Of  this  I  wished 
to  obtain  a  copy,  but  perceived  that  the  captain  was  some- 
what surprised  at  its  having  been  shown  to  me.  When  we 
parted,  we  promised  to  write  to  each  other,  which  I  per- 
formed from  Chihuahua. 

Here  was  an  old  Indian  who  was  extremely  inquisitive 
to  know  if  we  were  Spaniards;  to  which  an  old  gentleman 
called  Don  Francisco,  who  appeared  to  be  an  inmate  of 
Father  Rubi's,  replied  in  the  afifirmative.  "  But,"  said  the 
Indian,  "  they  do  not  speak  Castillian."  "  True,"  replied 
the  other;  "  but  you  are  an  Indian  of  the  nation  of  Keres,  are 
you  not?"  "Yes."  "Well,  the  Utahs  are  Indians  also?" 
"  Yes."  "  But  still  you  do  not  understand  them,  they  speak- 
ing a  different  language."  "True,"  replied  the  Indian. 
"  Well,"  said  the  old  gentleman,  "  those  strangers  arc  like- 
wise Spaniards,  but  do  not  speak  the  same  language  with 
us."  This  reasoning  seemed  to  satisfy  the  poor  savage  ; 
and  I  could  not  but  smile  at  the  ingenuity  displayed  to 
make  him  believe  there  was  no  other  nation  of  whites  but 
the  Spaniards. 

Whilst  at  dinner.  Father  Rubi  was  informed  that  one  of 
his  parishioners  was  at  the  point  of  death,  and  wished  his 
attendance  to  receive  his  confession. 

Wc  took  our  departure,  but  were  shortly  after  overtaken 
by  our  friend,  who,  after  giving  me  another  hearty  shake  of 
the  hand,  left  us.  Crossed  the  river  and  passed  two  small 
hamlets  and  houses  on  the  road  to  the  village  of  St.  Dies,'" 

"■  Marked  "  S  Dies  500"  on  the  map,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  to 
whicli  Pike  recrossed  from  San  I'clipc.  The  .Spanisli  form  would  be  San  Diaz, 
but  the  puebh>  is  licst  known  as  .Sandia  or  Zandia,  a  name  also  applied  to  the 
great   mountain   which   rises    on   the    E.     As  a  Si)anish  word,   satnfia  means 


ALBUQUERQUE — OLD   AND   NEW.  619 

opposite  the  mountain  of  the  same  name,  where  we  were 
received  in  a  house  of  Father  Rubi,  this  making  part  of  his 
domains. 

Mar.  yth.  Marched  at  nine  o'clock  through  a  country 
better  cultivated  and  inhabited  than  any  I  had  yet  seen. 
Arrived  at  Albuquerque,'"  a  village  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Rio  del  Norte.  We  were  received  by  Father  Ambrosio 
Guerra  in  a  very  flattering  manner,  and  led  into  his  hall. 
From  thence,  after  taking  some  refreshments,  we  went  into 

"  watermelon,"  .ind  .appeared  in  print  as  the  name  of  tliis  village  in  162(1.  'I'lie 
aboriijinal  name  of  the  pueblo  is  Nafiap,  and  its  mission  name  was  Nuestra  Senura 
de  los  Dolores  de  Sandia.  This  is  a  Tanoan  town,  with  a  present  population  of 
about  150.  The  situation  is  12  m.  above  Albucjuerque.  Pike  speaks  of  two 
small  hamlets  he  passed  to  reach  St.  Dies.  In  1864,  when  I  passed  over  the  road, 
there  was  a  mean  place  called  Algodones,  of  30  or  40  houses  and  some  200  or 
300  people,  and  6  m.  below  this  was  a  rather  better  one  named  Bernalillo.  This 
is  doubtless  what  Pike  charts  as  "  S  Bernilla  500."  Bernalillo  is  present 
name  of  a  station  of  the  A.,  T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R.  Simpson  relates  that  when  he 
passed  Sandia  in  1849  he  noticed  in  the  space  of  a  mile  northward  from  the 
pueblo  some  60  or  70  piles  of  stones  which  were  said  to  mark  the  places  where 
as  many  Navajos  had  fallen  in  battle  with  tlie  Pueblonians  some  years  before. 
"■  Old  Albu<]uerque,  to  be  distinguished  from  the  present  contiguous  or  adja- 
cent city  of  the  same  name,  one  of  the  best-known  places  on  the  Rio  Grande 
between  Santa  Fe  and  El  Paso.  In  coming  to  this  town  Pike  passed  sites  of 
several  places  now  named,  though  none  of  any  note — as  Corrales  (on  the  oppo- 
site or  W.  side  of  the  river,  whence  there  is  a  road  185^  m.  to  pueblo  of 
Cebolleta)  ;  Alameda  (where  the  river  could  be  crossed  to  strike  the  Corrales- 
CeboUeta  road) ;  Ranches  d'Albuquerque  ;  Los  Griegos  ;  and  finally  Candelaria. 
The  word  Albuquerque,  or  more  properly  Albo(iuerque,  is  the  same  as  the 
name  of  tlie  very  celebrated  Portuguese  son  of  Mars  and  soldier  of  fortune, 
Affonso  d'Alboquerque,  who  flourished  in  the  latter  p.irt  of  the  fifteenth  century 
and  early  in  the  sixteenth  (b.  1453,  d.  Dec.  i6th,  1515).  It  is  commonly  pro- 
nounced on  the  spot  Albykirky,  and  sometimes  Albykirk.  The  old  town  was 
in  existence  about  1700,  and  now  has  some  1,750  pop.;  the  new  one  is  a  thing 
of  yesterday,  so  to  speak,  but  already  a  notable  railroad  center,  capital  of  Berna- 
lillo Co.,  with  nearly  4,000  pop.,  and  scheduled  as  58  m.  from  Santa  Fe.  Near 
Albuquerque  there  was  a  ford  to  a  place  called  Atrisco,  whence  the  road  led  west- 
ward to  Fort  Wingate  ;  while  eastward  from  Albuquerque  a  road  went  to  the 
Tijeras  caiion,  which  marks  off  the  Sandia  range  proper  from  the  elevation  S. 
of  this  canon  called  Monte  Largo.  Tijeras  cr.,  when  it  runs,  falls  into  the  Rio 
Grande  about  8  m.  below  Albuquerque.  Sandival,  a  place  that  appears  on 
various  maps,  was  Sandival's  hacienda,  a  couple  of  miles  S.  of  Albuquerque,  on 
an  upper  and  dryer  ruad  than  the  one  usually  taken  southward. 


620  NO   ROSE   WITHOUT  A   THORN. 

an  inner  apartment,  where  he  ordered  his  adopted  children 
of  the  female  sex  to  appear.  They  came  in  by  turns — 
Indians  of  various  nations,  Spanish,  French,  and  finally  two 
young  girls,  whom  from  their  complexion  I  conceived  to  be 
English.  On  perceiving  I  noticed  them,  he  ordered  the  rest 
to  retire,  many  of  whom  were  beautiful,  and  directed  those 
to  sit  down  on  the  sofa  beside  me.  Thus  situated,  he  told 
me  that  they  had  been  taken  to  the  east  by  the  Tetaus  and 
passed  from  one  nation  to  another,  until  he  purchased  them, 
at  that  time  infants ;  they  could  recollect  neither  their 
names  nor  language,  but,  concluding  they  were  my  country- 
women, he  ordered  them  to  embrace  me  as  a  mark  of  their 
friendship,  to  which  they  appeared  nothing  loath.  We  then 
sat  down  to  dinner,  which  consisted  of  various  dishes,  excel- 
lent wines,  and,  to  crown  all,  we  were  waited  on  by  half 
a  dozen  of  those  beautiful  girls  who,  like  Hebe  at  the  feast 
of  the  gods,  converted  our  wine  to  nectar,  and  with  their 
ambrosial  breath  shed  incense  on  our  cups.  After  the  cloth 
was  removed  some  time,  the  priest  beckoned  me  to  follow 
him,  and  led  me  into  his  sanctum  sanctorum,  where  he  had 
the  rich  and  majestic  images  of  various  saints,  and  in  the 
midst  the  crucified  Jesus,  crowned  with  thorns,  with  rich 
rays  of  golden  glory  surrounding  his  head — in  short,  the 
room  being  hung  with  black  silk  curtains,  served  but  to  aug- 
ment the  gloom  and  majesty  of  the  scene.  When  he  con- 
ceived my  imagination  sufficiently  wrought  up,  he  put  on 
a  black  gown  and  miter,  kneeled  before  the  cross,  took  hold 
of  my  hand,  and  endeavored  gently  to  pull  me  down  beside 
him.  On  my  refusal,  he  prayed  fervently  for  a  few  minutes 
and  then  rose,  laid  his  hands  on  my  shoulders,  and,  as  I  con- 
ceived, blessed  me.  He  then  said  to  me,"  You  will  not  be  a 
Christian.  Oh  !  what  a  pity  !  oh  !  what  a  pity ! "  He  then 
threw  off  his  robes,  took  me  by  the  hand  and  led  me  out  of 
the  company  smiling;  but  the  scene  I  had  gone  through  had 
made  too  serious  an  impression  on  my  mind  to  be  eradicated 
until  we  took  our  departure,  which  was  in  an  hour  after, 
having  received  great  marks  of  friendship  from  the  father. 


ACEQUIAS — CROSSING   OF   THE   RIVER.  62 1 

Both  above  and  below  Albuquerque,  the  citizens  were 
beginning  to  open  canals,  to  let  in  the  water  of  the  river  to 
fertilize  the  plains  and  fields  which  border  its  banks  on  both 
sides ;  where  we  saw  men,  women,  and  children,  of  all  ages 
and  sexes,  at  the  joyful  labor  which  was  to  crown  with  rich 
abundance  their  future  harvest  and  insure  them  plenty  for 
the  ensuing  year.  Those  scenes  brought  to  my  recollection 
the  bright  descriptions  given  by  Savary  of  the  opening  of 
the  canals  of  Egypt.  The  cultivation  of  the  fields  was 
commencing  and  everything  appeared  to  give  life  and  gay- 
ety  to  the  surrounding  scenery. 

We  crossed  the  Rio  del  Norte  [at  Atrisco  "],  a  little  below 
the  village  of  Albuquerque,  where  it  was  400  yards  wide, 
but  not  more  than  three  feet  deep  and  excellent  fording. 
At  Father  Ambrosio's  was  the  only  chart  we  saw  in  the 

"  No  crossing  of  the  Rio  Grande  is  indicated  on  Pike's  map  anywhere  along 
here,  his  trail  being  dotted  continuously  on  the  E.  side  of  the  river.  But  it  is 
quite  certain  that  he  crossed  a  little  below  old  Albuquerque  to  Atrisco.  There 
was  here  a  ford,  regularly  used  when  the  water  was  not  too  high.  The  railroad 
now  crosses  some  miles  lower  down,  between  Isleta  station  and  Isleta.  Atrisco 
was  a  very  well-known  name,  in  consequence  of  the  ford,  before  the  days  of  the 
railroads,  but  is  hardly  to  be  found  on  ordinary  maps  of  to-day.  When  I  first 
crossed  the  Rio  Grande,  June  23d,  1864,  our  outfit  was  ferried  over  some  20  m. 
below  Albuquerque,  between  places  called  Los  I'inos  on  the  E.  and  Las  Lunas 
on  the  W.  "  Los  Pinos  "  is  short  for  Bosque  or  Alamo  de  los  Pinos,  as  they 
called  the  large  fine  grove  of  cottonwoods  there,  but  I  do  not  think  there  were 
any  pines.  A  couple  of  miles  below  was  the  hacienda  of  Mariano  Chavez, 
brother  of  the  unfortunate  A.  J.  Chavez  who  was  murdered  near  the  Little 
Arkansaw  :  see  note  '",  p.  424;  M.  Chavez  was  dead  himself  before  1847. 
The  piace  where  Pike  so  joyfully  met  the  blooming  Robinson  is  left  o]ien  to 
question  in  the  present  text.  If  by  the  "next  village"  he  means  the  next  one 
he  came  to  after  leaving  Albuquerque,  this  was  certainly  at  or  near  the  site  of 
Atrisco.  This  is  really  the  implication  ;  otherwise  we  should  have  to  go  a  good 
ways  down  the  W.  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  to  site  of  present  Pajarito,  or  perhaps 
Isleta,  at  which  latter  place  is  now  the  junction  of  the  Atl.  and  Pac.  with  the  A., 
T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R.  The  doubt  is  cleared  away  by  the  text  of  the  8th,  where 
it  appears  that  Pike  visited  Tousac  (see  next  note)  3  m.  from  the  village  where 
Robinson  was,  and  on  the  same  (\V.)  side  of  the  river,  where  the  troops  had 
been  sent  over  night ;  and  was  then  carted  back  over  to  the  E.  side  of  the  river. 
He  simply  visited  across  the  Rio  Grande,  as  he  had  done  at  San  Felijie,  and 
then  returned  to  continue  his  regular  journey  down  the  E.  side.  But  neither  of 
these  two  cases  is  put  very  clearly  at  first  blush  in  the  narrative. 


622  "  IT   WAS   ROBINSON  !  " 

province  that  gave  the  near  connection  of  the  sources  of 
the  Rio  del  Norte  and  the  Rio  Colorado  of  California,  with 
their  ramifications. 

On  our  arriving  at  the  next  village,  a  dependency  of 
Father  Ambrosio's,  we  were  invited  into  the  house  of  the 
commandant.  When  I  entered,  I  saw  a  man  sitting  by  the 
fire  reading  a  book;  with  blooming  cheeks,  fine  complexion, 
and  a  genius-speaking  eye,  he  arose  from  his  seat.  It  was 
Robinson !  Not  that  Robinson  who  left  my  camp  on  the 
headwaters  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  pale,  emaciated,  with  un- 
combed locks  and  beard  of  eight  months'  growth,  but  with 
fire,  unsubdued  enterprise,  and  fortitude.  The  change  was 
indeed  surprising.  I  started  back  and  exclaimed,  "  Robin- 
son !  "  "  Yes."  "  But  I  do  not  know  you,"  I  replied.  "  But 
I  know  you,"  he  exclaimed  ;  "  I  would  not  be  unknown  to 
you  here,  in  this  land  of  tyranny  and  oppression,  to  avoid 
all  the  pains  they  dare  to  inflict.  Yet,  my  friend,  I  grieve 
to  see  you  here  and  thus,  for  I  presume  you  are  a  prisoner." 
I  replied  "  No !  I  wear  my  sword,  you  see  ;  all  my  men 
have  their  arms,  and  the  moment  they  dare  to  ill-treat  us  we 
will  surprise  their  guards  in  the  night,  cany  off  some  horses, 
make  our  way  to  Appaches,  and  then  set  them  at  defiance." 

At  this  moment  Captain  D'Almansa  entered,  and  I  intro- 
duced Robinson  to  him  as  my  companion  de  voyage  and 
friend,  he  having  before  seen  him  at  Santa  Fe.  He  did  not 
appear  much  surprised,  and  received  him  with  a  significant 
smile,  as  much  as  to  say,  "  I  knew  this."  We  then  marched 
out  to  the  place  where  the  soldiers  were  encamped,  not  one 
of  whom  would  recognize  him,  agreeably  to  orders,  until 
I  gave  them  the  sign.  Then  it  was  a  joyful  meeting,  as  the 
whole  party  was  enthusiastically  fond  of  him.  He  gave  me 
the  following  relation  of  his  adventures  after  he  left  me  : 

"  I  marched  the  first  day  up  the  branch  [Rio  Conejos]  on 
which  we  were  situated,  as  you  know  we  had  concluded  it 
would  be  most  proper  to  follow  it  to  its  source  and  then 
cross  the  mountains  [San  Juan  range]  west,  where  we  had 
conceived  we  should  find  the  Spanish  settlements,  and  at 


ROBINSON'S   RELATION.  623 

night  encamped  on  its  banks.  The  second  day  I  left  it 
a  little,  bore  more  south,  and  was  getting  up  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  when  I  discovered  two  Indians,  for  whom  I  made. 
They  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  were  extremely 
shy  of  my  approach  ;  but  after  some  time,  confidence  being 
somewhat  restored,  I  signified  a  wish  to  go  to  Santa  Fe, 
when  they  pointed  due  south,  down  the  river  I  left  you  on. 
As  I  could  not  believe  them,  I  reiterated  the  inquiry  and 
received  the  same  reply.  I  then  concluded  that  we  had 
been  deceived,  and  that  you  were  on  the  Rio  del  Norte, 
instead  of  the  Red  river.  I  was  embarrassed  whether  I 
should  not  immediately  return  to  apprise  you  of  it;  but 
concluded  it  to  be  too  late,  as  I  was  discovered  by  the 
Indians,  whom  if  I  had  not  met,  or  some  others,  I  should 
have  continued  on,  crossed  the  mountains  to  the  waters  of 
the  Colorado,  and  descended  these,  until  from  their  course 
I  should  have  discovered  my  mistake.  I  therefore  offered 
them  some  presents  to  conduct  me  in  ;  they  agreed,  con- 
ducted me  to  the  camp  where  their  women  were,  and  in 
about  five  minutes  we  were  on  our  march.  That  night  we 
encamped  in  the  woods  ;  I  slept  very  little,  owing  to  my 
distrust  of  my  companions.  The  next  day,  at  three  o'clock, 
we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Aqua  Caliente,  where  I  was 
immediately  taken  into  the  house  of  the  commandant,  and 
expresses  were  dispatched  to  Santa  Fe.  That  night  I  was 
put  to  sleep  on  a  mattress  on  the  floor.  The  next  day  we 
departed  early,  leaving  my  arms  and  baggage  at  the  com- 
mandant's, he  promising  to  have  them  forwarded  to  me  at 
the  city.  On  our  arrival  at  Santa  Fe,  the  governor  received 
me  with  great  austerity  at  first,  entered  into  an  examination 
of  my  business,  and  took  possession  of  all  my  papers. 
After  all  this  was  explained,  he  ordered  me  to  a  room  where 
the  officers  were  confined  when  under  an  arrest,  and  a  non- 
commissioned officer  to  attend  me  when  I  walked  out  into 
the  city,  which  I  had  free  permission  to  do.  I  was  supplied 
with  provisions  from  the  governor's  table,  who  had  prom- 
ised he  would  write  to  Baptiste  Lalande  to  come  down  and 


624  ROBINSON'S   RELATION. 

answer  to  the  claim  I  had  against  him  ;  whose  circumstance 
I  had  apprised  myself  of.  The  second  day  the  governor 
sent  for  me,  and  informed  me  that  he  had  made  inquiry  as 
to  the  abilities  of  Lalande  to  discharge  the  debt,  and  found 
that  he  possessed  no  property  ;  but  that  at  some  future 
period  he  would  secure  the  money  for  me.  To  this  1  made 
a  spirited  remonstrance,  as  an  infringement  of  our  treaties 
and  a  protection  of  a  refugee  citizen  of  the  United  States 
against  his  creditors.  But  it  had  no  other  effect  than  to 
obtain  me  an  invitation  to  dinner,  and  rather  more  respect- 
ful treatment  than  I  had  hitherto  received  from  his  Excel- 
lency ;  who,  being  slightly  afflicted  with  dropsy,  requested 
my  advice  as  to  his  case.  For  this  I  prescribed  a  regimen  and 
mode  of  treatment  which  happened  to  differ  from  the  one 
adopted  by  a  monk  and  practicing  physician  of  the  place, 
and  thus  brought  on  me  his  enmity  and  ill  offices.  The 
ensuing  day  I  was  ordered  by  the  governor  to  hold  myself 
in  readiness  to  proceed  to  the  internal  parts  of  the  country, 
to  which  I  agreed ;  determining  not  to  leave  the  country  in 
a  clandestine  manner,  unless  they  attempted  to  treat  me 
with  indignity  or  hardship  ;  and  conceiving  it  in  my  power 
to  join  you  on  your  retreat,  or  find  Red  river  and  descend  it, 
should  you  not  be  brought  in  ;  but,  in  that  case,  to  share 
your  destiny.  Added  to  this  I  felt  a  desire  to  see  more  of 
the  country,  for  which  purpose  I  was  willing  to  run  the  risk 
of  future  consequences.  We  marched  the  ensuing  day, 
I  having  been  equipped  by  my  friend  with  some  small 
articles  of  which  I  stood  in  need,  such  as  I  would  receive 
out  of  the  numerous  offers  of  his  country.  The  fourth  day 
I  arrived  at  the  village  of  St.  Fernandez,  where  I  was 
received  and  taken  charge  of  by  Lieutenant  Don  Faciendo 
Malgares,  who  commanded  the  expedition  to  the  Pawnees, 
and  whom  you  will  find  a  gentleman,  a  soldier,  and  one  of 
the  most  gallant  men  you  ever  knew.  With  him  I  could  no 
longer  keep  up  the  disguise,  and  when  he  informed  me,  two 
days  since,  that  you  were  on  the  way  in,  I  confessed  to  him 
that  I  belonged  to  your  party.     We  have  ever  since  been 


TOUSAC— ATRISCO — SAN   FERNANDEZ. 


625 


anticipating  the  pleasure  we  three  will  enjoy  in  our  journey 
tD  Chihuahua  ;  for  he  is  to  command  tlie  escort,  his  dra- 
goons being  now  encamped  in  the  field,  awaiting  your 
arrival.  Since  I  have  been  with  him  I  have  practiced 
physic  in  the  country  in  order  to  have  an  opportunity  of 
examining  the  manners,  customs,  etc.,  of  the  people,  to 
endeavor  to  ascertain  their  poHtical  and  religious  feelings, 
and  to  gain  every  other  species  of  information  which  would 
be  necessary  to  our  country  or  ourselves.  I  am  now  here, 
on  a  visit  to  this  man's  wife,  attended  by  a  corporal  of 
dragoons  as  a  guard,  who  answers  very  well  as  a  waiter, 
guide,  etc.,  in  my  excursions  through  the  country;  but 
I  will  immediately  return  with  you  to  Malgares." 

Thus  ended  Robinson's  relation,  and  I  in  return  related 
what  had  occurred  to  the  party  and  myself.  We  agreed 
upon  our  future  line  of  conduct,  and  then  joined  my  old 
captain  in  the  house.  He  had  been  persuaded  to  tarry  all 
night,  provided  it  was  agreeable  to  me,  as  our  host  wished 
Robinson  to  remain  until  the  next  day.  With  this  propo- 
sition I  complied,  in  order  that  Robinson  and  myself  might 
have  a  further  discussion  before  we  joined  Malgares,  who  I 
suspected  would  watch  us  closely.  The  troops  proceeded  to 
the  village  of  Tousac  that  evening. 

Sunday,  Mar.  Sth.  Marched  after  taking  breakfast  and 
halted  at  a  little  village,  three  miles  distant,  called  Tousac," 
situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte.  The  men 
informed  me  that,  on  their  arrival  over  night,  they  had  all 
been  furnished  with  an  excellent  supper;  and  after  supper, 
wine  and  a  violin,  with  a  collection  of  the  young  people  to 
a  dance.  When  we  left  this  village  the  priest  sent  a  cart 
down  to  carry  us  over,  as  the  river  was  nearly  four  feet  deep. 
When  we  approached  the  village  of  St.  Fernandez  "  we  were 

'*  "  Tousac  500  "  is  marked  nearly  opposite  Albuquerque,  at  or  near  present 
site  of  Atrisco.  Wliat  tliis  can  be,  unless  it  is  Atrisco  itself,  or  some  old  jilace 
close  by,  I  do  not  know.  The  name  reminds  us  of  Tesuque  (see  note  ',  p.  605), 
but  the  place  here  meant  is  obviously  not  that  one.     (See  Tousac  in  Index.) 

""  S.  Fernandez  500"  is  marked  on  the  map  as  the  first  village  below  Albu- 


626  MALGARES  TAKES   COMMAND. 

met  by  Lieutenant  Malgares,  accompanied  by  two  or  three 
other  officers  ;  he  received  with  tlie  most  manly  frankness 
and  the  politeness  of  a  man  of  the  world.  Yet  my  feelings 
were  such  as  almost  overpowered  me,  and  obliged  me  to 
ride  by  myself  for  a  short  period  in  order  to  recover  myself. 
Those  sensations  arose  from  my  knowledge  that  he  had 
been  absent  from  Chihuahua  ten  months,  and  it  had  cost 
the  king  of  Spain  more  than  $10,000  to  effect  that  [capture 
of  myself  and  party]  which  a  mere  accident  and  the  decep- 
tion of  the  governor  had  accomplished. 

Malgares,  finding  I  did  not  feel  myself  at  ease,  took  every 
means  in  his  power  to  banish  my  reserve,  which  made  it  im- 
possible on  my  part  not  to  endeavor  to  appear  cheerful.  We 
conversed  as  well  as  we  could,  and  in  two  hours  were  as  well 
acquainted  as  some  people  would  be  in  the  same  number  of 
months.  Malgares  possessed  none  of  the  haughty  Castillian 
pride,  but  much  of  the  urbanity  of  a  Frenchman  ;  and  I  will 
add  my  feeble  testimony  to  his  loyalty,  by  declaring  that  he 
was  one  of  the  few  ofificers  or  citizens  whom  I  found  who 
were  loyal  to  their  king,  who  felt  indignant  at  the  degraded 
state  of  the  Spanish  monarchy,  and  who  deprecated  a  revo- 
lution or  separation  of  Spanish  America  from  the  mother 
country,    unless   France   should    usurp  the    government    of 

querque  on  the  E.  siJe.  I  do  not  recognize  the  name,  nor  can  I  find  it  on 
any  one  of  several  maps  examined.  No  distance  being  given  for  the  8th,  I 
am  left  entirely  at  a  loss.  But  in  no  event  can  Pike  have  passed  Peralta,  a 
well-known  place,  and  he  is  probably  not  far  short  of  it.  We  may  tliere- 
fore  note  some  places  between  Albuquerque  and  Peralta.  Pajarito  Arriba  and 
P.ajarito  Bajo  (Upper  and  Lower  Pajarito)  are  two  towns  3  m.  .ipart,  3  and  6  m. 
below  Atrisco,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  river  ;  and  Tijeras  or  Tijera  cr.  or  arroyo 
comes  to  the  river  from  the  E.  .iljout  a  mile  below  P.ijarito  Bajo.  Three 
m.  beyond  this  last  town  is  Padillas,  a  Mexican  town  near  the  foot  of  the 
mesa,  and  three  beyond  this  is  Isleta — both  on  the  W.  side.  None  of  these 
places  was  of  importance  ;  but  Isleta  is  now  a  st.ation  on  the  A.,  T.,  and  S.  F. 
R.  R.,  which  makes  a  crossing  of  the  Rio  Grande  to  it  from  Isleta  station  on 
the  E.  side  ;  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Isleta  is  the  junction  of  the  A. 
and  P.  R.  R.  Below  Isleta  station,  on  the  E.,  are  the  Ranchitos  d'lsleta  ; 
next  is  Los  Pinos,  already  mentioned,  then  Chavez,  and  a  mile  from  this  stands 
Peralta.     The  latter  was  known  at  one  time  as  Ontero's  hacienda. 


REQUISITION   FOR  A   CORPS  DE   BALLET.  627 

Spain.  These  are  the  men  who  possess  the  heads  to  plan, 
the  hearts  to  feel,  and  the  hands  to  carry  this  great  and  im- 
portant work  into  execution.  In  the  afternoon  our  friend 
wrote  the  following  notification  to  the  alcaldes  of  several 
small  villages  around  us: 

"  Send  this  evening  six  or  eight  of  your  handsomest  young 
girls  to  the  village  of  St.  Fernandez,  where  I  propose  giv- 
ing a  fandango,  for  the  entertainment  of  the  American 
officers  arrived  this  day. 

"  [Signed]     Don  Faciendo." 

This  order  was  punctually  obeyed,  and  portrays  more 
clearly  than  a  chapter  of  observations  the  degraded  state  of 
the  common  people.  In  the  evening,  when  the  company 
arrived,  the  ball  began  after  their  usual  manner,  and  there 
was  really  a  handsome  display  of  beauty. 

It  will  be  proper  to  mention  here,  that  when  my  small 
paper  trunk  was  brought  in,  Lt.  Malgarcs  struck  his  foot 
against  it,  and  said  :  "  The  governor  informs  me  this  is  a 
prisoner  of  war,  or  that  I  have  charge  of  it ;  but,  sir,  only 
assure  me  that  you  will  hold  the  papers  therein  contained 
sacred,  and  I  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  it."  I  bowed 
assent ;  and  I  will  only  add  that  the  condition  was  scrupu- 
lously adhered  to,  as  I  was  bound  by  every  tie  of  military 
and  national  honor,  and,  let  me  add,  gratitude,  not  to  abuse 
his  high  confidence  in  the  honor  of  a  soldier.  He  further 
added  that  "  Robinson  being  now  acknowledged  as  one  of 
your  party,  I  shall  withdraw  his  guard  and  consider  him  as 
under  your  parole  of  honor."  Those  various  marks  of  polite- 
ness and  friendship  caused  mc  to  endeavor  to  evince  to  my 
brother  soldier  that  we  were  capable  of  appreciating  his 
honorable  conduct  toward  us. 

Mnr.  gth.  The  troops  marched  about  ten  o'clock.  Lt. 
Malgarcs  and  myself  accompanied  Captain  D'Almansa  about 
three  miles  back  on  his  route  to  Santa  Fe,  to  the  house  of  a 
citizen,  where  we  dined  ;  after  which  we  separated.    I  wrote 


628  APPROACHING  THE    I,AST   SETTLEMENT. 

by  the  captain  to  the  governor  in  French,  and  to  Father 
Rubi  in  EngHsh.  D'Ahnansa  presented  me  with  his  cap 
and  whip,  and  gave  me  a  letter  of  recommendation  to  an 
officer  at  Chihuahua.  We  returned  to  our  quarters  and, 
being  joined  by  our  waiters,  commenced  our  route. 

Passed  a  village  called  St.  Thomas  [San  Tomas,  or 
Tom6 '"],  one  mile  distant  from  camp.  The  camp  was  formed 
in  an  ellipsis,  the  two  long  sides  presenting  a  breastwork 
formed  of  the  saddles  and  heads  of  the  mules,  each  end  of 
the  ellipsis  having  a  small  opening  to  pass  and  repass  at ;  in 
the  center  was  the  commandant's  tent.  Thus,  in  case  of  an 
attack  on  the  camp,  there  were  ready-formed  works  to  fight 
from.  Malgares'  mode  of  living  was  superior  to  anything 
we  have  an  idea  of  in  our  army ;  having  eight  mules  loaded 
with  his  common  camp  equipage,  wines,  confectionery,  etc. 
But  this  only  served  to  evince  the  corruption  of  Spanish 
discipline  ;  for,  if  a  subaltern  indulged  himself  with  such  a 
quantity  of  baggage,  what  would  be  the  cavalcade  attending 
an  army  ?  Dr.  Robinson  had  been  called  over  the  river 
to  a  small  village  to  see  a  sick  woman,  and  did  not  return 
that  night.     Distance  12  miles. 

Mar.  loth.  Marched  at  eight  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the 
village  Sibilleta  ;  passed  on  the  way  the  village  of  Sabinez 
on  the  west  side,  and  Xaxalcs,  on  the  same  [W.]  side, 
Sibilleta  ^'   is  situated  on  the  east   side,   and  is    a    regular 

so.<  g  "Ti^om.is  500"  on  Pike's  map,  a  mile  l)cyond  which  was  camp  of  the 
gth.  As  12  m.  advance  was  made  to-day,  St.  Thomas  and  St.  Fernandez  were 
places  II  m.  apart.  Los  Pines,  Peralta,  and  Valencia  are  all  places  within 
3  m.  of  one  another,  and  more  or  less  nearly  opposite  Las  Lunas,  on  the  west, 
long  a  notable  point  of  crossin(j  of  the  Rio  Gr.ande,  and  present  seat  of  Valencia 
Co.  Tt  is  situated  in  the  San  Clemente  tract,  and  near  it  are  Las  Lunas 
hills.  Five  miles  below  Valencia,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  is  Tome 
hill,  a  conspicuous  butte  on  the  edge  of  the  mesa,  in  lat.  34°  45'.  Tome  and 
the  Tome  ranches  are  2  or  3  m.  further  south.  These  stretched  .along  the 
river  for  more  than  a  mile,  presenting  at  times  well  cultivated  and  well  irrigated 
grainficlds. 

^'  "  .Sibilleta  1000,"  which  Pike  marlcs  on  his  trail  on  tlie  K.  bank  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  is  otherwise  CiboUeta,  I, a  Joya  de  Ciholleta,  or  old  La  Joya,  within 
the  area  of  the  Cevilleta  or  Joya  (Jrant,  and   in  Socorro  Co.  (next  county  S. 


VARIOUS   PLACES  NOTED.  629 

square,  appearing  like  a  large  mud  wall  on  the  outside,  the 
doors,  windows,  etc.,  facing  the  square;  it  is  the  neatest  and 
most  regular  village  I  have  yet  seen,  and  is  governed  by  a 
sergeant,  at  whose  quarters  I  put  up. 

of  Valencia).  Present  La  Joya  is  across  the  river,  on  the  W.  side  ;  the  railroad 
goes  through  it.  Beyond  old  La  Joya  is  Joya  canon,  on  the  E.  All  these  places 
are  a  few  miles  S.  of  the  confluence  of  the  Rio  I'uerco  with  the  Rio  Grande, 
on  the  W.  The  Puerco  is  a  sizable  stream,  or  dry  bed  of  one,  on  a  general  S. 
course,  crossed  at  23  m.  distance  in  going  W.  from  Las  Lunas  along  the  old 
road  to  Zuni,  Fort  Wingate,  etc.  Where  I  crossed,  it  was  a  sluggish  thread  of 
dirty  yellow  water  which  one  could  bestride  ;  but  it  is  some  75  m.  long,  and 
im]5ortant  in  furnishing  bounds  to  several  of  the  land  grants  in  Valencia  and 
Bernalillo  cos.  There  is  no  trace  of  the  Puerco  on  Pike's  map,  though  he  lays 
down  both  Rio  Chama  and  Rio  Jemez.  Before  coming  to  the  confluence  of 
the  Puerco  he  passed  a  number  of  places  now  named,  whicli  may  be  taken  up 
thus  :  On  the  E.  side  are  Constancia,  Casa  Colorada,  Vellita,  and  Las  Nutrias, 
with  several  others  of  less  note.  Casa  Colorada  ("Red  House")  gives  name 
to  the  grant  next  south  of  Tome  Grant  ;  it  is  on  the  Rio  Grande,  4  m.  above 
the  mouth  of  that  considerable  stream,  high  up  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  Abo. 
On  the  W.  side,  where  the  railroad  now  runs,  a  principal  place  is  Belen,  in  the 
vicinity  of  which  were  others  which  were  called  Ranchos  de  Belen,  and  Pueb- 
litos  de  Belen  ;  nearly  opposite  the  last,  but  directly  on  the  \V.  bank  of  the 
river,  is  Jarales.  Next  above  the  Belen  pueblito,  on  the  railro.ad,  is  Trejos, 
and  next  below  it  is  San  Jose.  Below  the  last  named  is  a  point  of  woods,  called 
in  Spanish  Punto  del  Bosque,  and  here  is  a  place  named  Bosque.  Rancho 
Sabinal,  Sabinal  station,  and  a  certain  Pueblito  succeed  one  another,  bringing 
us  about  opposite  the  above  said  Las  Nutrias. 

Along  this  whole  stretch  of  the  Rio  Grande,  from  Peralta  nearly  to  La  Joya, 
a  range  of  mountains  extends  in  the  E.  offing,  .say  15-20  m.  air-line  to  their 
summits.  This  is  the  Manzano  range,  running  N.  and  S. ;  some  of  its  peaks,  u]) 
to  10,000  feet,  are  called  Mosca,  Capilla,  Osha,  and  Manzano.  The  range  con- 
tinues S.  under  the  name  of  Cerro  Montoso.  Roads  start  from  many  places 
on  the  Rio  Grande  to  go  through  the  caiions  or  passes  in  these  mountains. 

We  have  also  to  attend  to  Sabinez  and  Xaxales  of  the  above  text,  and  with 
these  may  note  several  other  pueblos  Pike  charts  in  this  region. 

1.  Sabinez,  or  .S.abinal,  or  Savinal,  was  a  place  near  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  in  the  vicinity  of  present  Sabinal  station  on  the  railroad,  .about  10 
m.  above  new  La  Joya,  and  somewhat  less  above  the  mouth  of  Rio  Puerco. 

2.  "  Xaxales  300  "  is  marked  a  few  miles  S.  of  Sabinez,  at  or  near  the  place 
on  the  railroad  now  called  Pueblito,  6  or  8  m.  above  new  La  Joya.  "  Xaxales  " 
is  the  same  word  as  Jarales  (otherwise  Gerrales),  but  does  not  seem  to  have 
denoted  the  place  now  called  by  the  latter  name. 

3.  Next  W.  of  Sabinez  and  Xaxales,  but  well  off  the  Rio  Grande,  Pike 
marks    "  Seguna  250."      This   is  the  large,  old,  and   still   flourishing   Kercsan 


630  VARIOUS   PLACES   NOTED. 

Mar.  nth.  Marched  at  eleven  o'clock;  came  12  miles" 
and  encamped,  the  troops  having  preceded  us.  Lieutenant 
Malgares,  not  being  well,  took  medicine.  The  village  we 
stayed  at  last  night  being  the  last,  we  entered  the  wilder- 
pueblo  of  Laguna,  with  a  present  pop.  of  over  i,ioo.  It  is  so  called  from  the 
little  lake  or  laguna  hard  by,  on  a  branch  of  the  Rito  San  Jose  (a  branch  of  the 
Rio  Puerco).  This  pueblo  is  on  the  main  road  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  Zuni 
and  so  on.  An  old  Navajo  trail  lakes  or  took  off  N.  from  Laguna,  up  another 
branch  of  the  same  rito,  in  the  course  of  which  latter  is  a  cluster  of  small 
pueblos,  as  Povete,  Pojuate,  or  P.iguate  ;  Moquino  ;  CeboUeta  ;  and  Ceholletita  ; 
there  were  also  various  ruined  pueblos  here  and  there  in  the  region  watered  by 
the  Rito  San  Jose  and  its  several  trickling  affluents.  Coverois  a  pueblo  not  far 
W.  N.  W.  of  Laguna. 

4.  Pike  marks  "  Cequimas  500"  some  distance  S.  W.  of  Laguna.  This  ir, 
the  old  and  well-known  Keresan  pueblo  of  Acoma,  on  another  aflluent  of  the 
San  Jose  system,  with  a  present  pop.  of  about  the  s.ime  .as  it  had  in  his  time. 
Plates  of  Acoma  and  various  other  towns  illustrate  Lieut.  J.  W.  Abert's  report, 
Ex.  Doc.  41,  30th  Congr.,  1st  Sess.,  pub.  184S.     (See  Cequimas  in  Index.) 

5.  "  Zumi  300  "  is  charted  near  both  of  the  foregoing,  and  E.  of  the  conti- 
nental divide.  This  is  an  error  of  location,  for  the  pueblo  meant  is  that  of 
Zuni  or  Suinyi,  one  of  the  largest  and  on  the  whole  the  best  known  of  all  the 
Indian  towns  in  New  Mexico.  It  is  situated  on  the  Rio  Zuni,  tributary  to  the 
Colorado  river  system,  and,  therefore,  on  the  Pacific  slope.  The  place  is 
famous  as  the  very  heart  of  the  region  where  the  "Seven  Cities  of  Cibola" 
stood  at  the  dawn  of  the  historic  period  in  Spanish  invasion  of  this  country  ; 
one  of  the  seven  having  furnished  at  least  a  part  of  the  present  site  of  Zuni. 
The  Zunian  people,  to  the  number  of  some  1,600,  alone  represent  a  distinct 
nation  of  pueblonians,  called  the  Znnian  family  :  see  a  note  beyond. 

6.  West  of  his  line  of  contincnt.al-divide  mountains  Pike  locates  two  pueblos, 
or  r.ather  Indian  villages,  by  the  names  of  "  Cumpa  "  and  "  Chacat."  These  are 
not  far  apart,  and  both  approximate  to  the  four  Moki  villages  he  charts  :  see  a 
note  beyond  for  the  Molds.  The  identification  of  Cumpa  may  be  in  question  ; 
but  Chacat  evidently  stands  for  what  Pike  learned  of  the  old  establishments  in 
the  Canon  de  Chaco,  or  de  Chasco.  This  is  in  N.  W.  New  Mexico,  and  in 
such  extent  of  the  canon  as  has  running  water  is  the  Rio  Chaco,  tributary  of 
Rio  .San  Juan,  a  branch  of  the  Colorado  Grande  which  enters  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Colorado  Chiquito,  in  Utah.  This  canon  once  harbored  a  large  population 
in  several  different  establishments,  all  long  since  gone  to  ruins  ;  and  the  Chaco 
people  have  been  the  subjects  of  much  disputed  history.  An  excellent  .account 
of  the  ruins  is  contaiueil  in  Simpson's  Report,  pp.  73-86  ;  views  of  some  of  them 
are  given  on  several  plates.  On  his  m.ap  the  names  of  10  of  the  12  he  locates 
stand  as  Pintado,  Wejcgi,  Una  Vida,  Hungo  Pavi,  Chctho  Kette,  Bonito,  Del 
Arroyo,  Nos.  8  and  g  blank,  Pefiasca  Blanca. 

^^  Past  Joya  caiion  to  the  vicinity  of   La  Joyita,  near  the  S.  border  of  the 


MOUNTAIN   RANGES   IN   THE  OFFING.  63 1 

ness  and  the  road  became  rough,  small  hills  running  into  the 
river,  making  valleys  ;  but  the  bottoms  appear  richer  than 
those  more  to  the  north. 

Mar.  I2th.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock  ;  passed,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  the  mountains  of  Magdalen,  and  the  Black 
mountains  on  the  east.''''     Passed  the  encampment  of  a  cara- 

Joya  Grant.  This  is  a  small  town  near  which  some  black  basaltic  bluffs  reach 
down  close  to  the  river.  It  is  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  village  of  similar 
name,  La  Joya,  a  few  miles  further  on. 

'^  The  Bl.ick  mts.  of  Pike's  text,  Sierra  Obseura  of  his  map,  are  in  the  series 
of  ranges  along  the  E.  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  at  varying  but  always  consider- 
able distances.  These  are  in  general  but  not  exact  continuation  of  the  San  Diaz 
or  Sandia  mts.,  and  take,  in  different  parts  of  their  extent,  other  names,  as  Cerro 
Manzano,  Cerro  Monloso,  etc.;  the  name  Sierra  Oscura  or  Black  range  being 
now  restricted  to  a  short  chain  between  the  Chupadera  mesa  on  the  N.  and  the 
San  Andreas  ch.ain  on  the  S.  Though  there  is  of  course  no  such  linear  con- 
tinuity of  these  ranges  as  Pike's  Sierra  Obseura  seems  to  represent,  yet  I  think 
Pike  hit  off  the  mountains  wonderfully  well,  considering  the  stealthy  circum- 
stances under  which  he  observed  them.  All  through  "  the  captivity  "  in  New 
Spain  he  had  to  make  his  notes  furtively,  and  then  conceal  them — in  other 
words,  he  stole  and  hid  away  his  information.  His  Sierra  Obseura  is  all  the 
better  delineated  by  his  marking  certain  southern  portions  of  the  chaiu  with  the 
names  "Sierra  de  el  Sacramento"  and  "Sierra  de  Guadelupe  " — these  being 
ranges  which  he  was  never  near,  if  in  fact  he  ever  laid  eyes  on  them.  They 
are  those  called  to-day  the  Sacramento  and  Guadalupe  ranges,  trending  S.  E. 
toward  the  Rio  Pecos,  down  to  lat.  32°  or  thereabouts  ;  they  are  special  south- 
ward extensions  of  the  huge  nest  of  mountains  which  bovmd  for  a  great  distance 
the  water-shed  of  the  Pecos,  and  are  broken  into  many  lesser  ranges  and  peaks, 
as  the  White  range  (Sierra  Blanca),  the  Nogal,  Capitan,  Carrizo,  Jicarilla,  etc. 
In  perhaps  no  point  is  Pike's  (qu  :  Humboldt's  ?)  map  clearer  than  where  he  runs 
his  "  Mont.agnes  de  Salines  "  N.  between  his  Sierra  Obseura  on  the  E.  and  the 
Rio  Grande  on  the  W. ;  for  this  is  the  San  Andre.is  range,  which  extends  con- 
tinuously southward  from  the  Sierra  Oscura  of  present  geography,  and  whose 
southern  portions  now  bear  the  names  of  the  Orgau  and  Franklin  mts.,  ending 
only  near  El  I'.aso.  The  Organ  mts.  were  better  and  have  been  long  known  by 
the  Spanish  name  of  Sierra  de  los  Organos,  exactly  as  lettered  by  Pike.  Tliis 
curious  name  originated  in  the  fancied  resemlilance  of  the  columnar  trap  forma- 
tions to  the  pipes  of  an  organ.  Wislizenus  and  Hughes  both  call  them  the 
"  Organic  "  mts.  Their  fastnesses  were  favorite  and  habitual  lurking-places  of 
the  Mcscalero  Apaches — those  murderous  freebooters  and  desperadoes  who  useil 
to  descend  upon  the  peaceful  pueblos  and  the  Spanish  settlements.  "  The 
Assyrian  came  down  like  the  wolf  on  the  fold,"  and  so  did  the  Apache,  not 
only  from  the  Organ  mts.  and  other  parts  of  the  San  Andreas  or  Salinas  range, 
but  also  from  all   the  mountains  above  mentioned  as  lying  further  east.     Ob- 


632  MOUNTAIN   RANGES — BUT   NO   RIO   PECOS. 

van  going  out  with  about  15,000  sheep  from  the  other  prov- 
inces, from  which  they  bring  back  merchandise.  This  expe- 
dition consisted  of  about  300  men,  chiefly  citizens,  escorted 
by  an  ofKicer  and  35  or  40  troops;  they  are  collected  at 
Sibilleta  and  separate  there  on  their  return.  They  go  out 
in  February  and  return  in  March  ;  a  similar  expedition  goes 
out  in  the  autumn,  but  during  the  other  parts  of  the  year  no 
citizen  travels  the  road,  the  couriers  excepted.  At  the  pass 
[El  Paso]  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  they  meet  and  exchange 
packets,  when  both  return  to  their  own  provinces.     Met  a 

serve  that  Pike  thrice  locates  Apaches  among  these  mountains,  lettering  "Apaches 
Faraone,"  "  Apaches  Mescaleros,"  and  "Apaches  Mcscalorez."  He  also  locates 
what  he  calls  "  Indicns  let.ins  "  ;  these  are  the  Comanches,  usually  given  in  his 
text  as  "  Tetaus,"  who  played  the  part  of  Vand.ils  to  the  Goths  of  the  Apaches — 
twin  scourges  during  the  whole  historic  period  and  down  to  our  own  day,  under 
the  leadership  of  chiefs  whose  characters  recall  the  popular  impressions  of 
Attila  the  Hun.  The  only  serious  criticism  to  be  passed  on  this  part  of  Pike's 
map  is  the  way  he  runs  a  gieat  river  in  the  country  of  his  letans  and  Mesca- 
leros, between  his  Sierra  Obscura  and  his  Montagnes  de  Salines,  i.  e. ,  in  the 
deserts  E.  of  his  San  Andreas  range  and  W.  of  the  other  mountains.  But  this 
is  simply  his  misapprehension  of  such  information  as  he  had  of  the  course  of 
the  Pecos  ;  for  his  "  Rio  Puerto"  is  a  mistake  for  Rio  Puerco,  and  this  was  a 
long  current  though  mistaken  name  of  the  Pecos,  to  be  found  on  various  maps 
and  in  different  itineraries  of  comparatively  recent  dates.  It  is  hardly  neces- 
sary to  add  that  the  Pecos  lies  eastward  of  all  the  mountains  now  under  con- 
sideration ;  there  is  no  such  river  where  Pike  lays  down  his  "  Rio  Puerto."  That 
region  is  a  horrid  desert,  where  such  waters  as  may  start  from  the  mountains  on 
cither  hand  soon  run  out  by  ev.apor.ition  and  absorption,  or  lose  themselves 
in  those  salty  sinks  and  alkaline  wastes  whence  originated,  in  fact,  the  former 
name  of  "  Saline  "  or  "  Salinas  "  mts.  for  the  San  Andre.as  range. 

As  to  the  "  Mount.ains  of  Magdalen"  of  Pike's  text:  We  observe  that  he 
maps  tn'o  isolated  elevations  on  his  right,  W.  of  the  Rio  Grande,  respectively 
lettered  "Sierra  Magillez"  and  "Sierra  Christopher."  These  clearly  corre- 
spond to  two  of  the  most  conspicuous  elevations,  Mt.  Magdalen  and  Old  Baldy, 
of  the  range  which  continues  to  be  known  as  that  of  the  Magdalen  mts.  or  Sierra 
Magdalena.  These  are  a  short  but  high  range  directly  W.  of  the  county  town 
Socorro,  whence  a  branch  of  the  railroad  now  runs  into  them  to  the  place 
called  Magdalena.  This  range  rises  20  m.  and  more  from  the  river  ;  in  this 
interval  a  series  of  lesser  elevations  stretches  northward,  taking  at  successive 
points  the  names  of  Socorro,  Limitar,  Polvadero,  and  Ladron — tlie  two  last  of 
these  being  sejiarated  by  the  arroyo  of  the  Rio  Salado,  coming  to  the  Rio 
Grande  from  the  W.  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Joya  canon  from  the  E. 

The  position  of  Pike's  camp  of  the   12th  is  not  easily  determined,  as  he  gives 


VICINITY   OF  VALVERDE.  633 

caravan  of  50  men  and  probably  200  horses,  loaded  with 
goods  for  New  Mexico.  Halted  at  twelve  o'clock  and 
marched  at  three.  Lt.  Malgares  showed  me  the  place  where 
he  had  been  in  two  affairs  with  the  Appaches ;  one  he  com- 
manded himself,  and  the  other  was  commanded  by  Captain 
D'Almansa ;  in  the  former  there  were  one  Spaniard  killed, 
eight  wounded,  and  10  Appaches  made  prisoners;  in  the 
latter  52  Appaches  were  wounded  and  17  killed,  they  being 
surprised  in  the  night.  Malgares  killed  two  himself,  and 
had  two  horses  killed  under  him. 

Mar.  13th.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock ;  saw  many  deer. 
Halted   at    eleven   o'clock  and  marched  at   four  o'clock." 

no  mileage  and  names  no  place.  But  it  was  not  far  below  Socorro,  and  perhaps 
in  the  close  vicinity  of  Eosquecito.  His  Sierra  Christopher  (W.  of  the  river) 
is  to  be  carefully  distinguished  from  what  he  further  on  calls  the  "  mountain  of 
the  Friar  Christopher,"  i.  e.,  Fra  Cristobal,  on  the  E.  of  the  river:  see  note", 
PP-  635.  636,  and  note  ™,  p.  639. 

When  Pike  passed  a  couple  of  miles  below  Parida,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  he  had  to  climb  a  steep  hill  close  to  the  river.  From  the  top  of  this 
there  is  a  fine  view  to  be  had  of  various  places.  Nearly  opposite  is  Socorro,  on 
the  W.  bank  ;  Limitar  is  visible,  6  or  8  m.  higher  up  on  that  side  ;  while  about 
4  m.  lielow  is  the  site  of  the  ruins  of  Las  Huertas  (the  Orchards).  Socorro  was 
long  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  ftlaccs  on  the  Rio  Grande.  It  had 
a  population  of  2,000  about  the  middle  of  this  century. 

'*  No  mileage  for  to-day,  nor  even  number  of  hours  on  the  march  ;  no  named 
point.  In  fact  Pike's  itinerary  from  Santa  Fe  thus  far  hardly  gives  a  natural 
feature — not  even  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Puerco  ;  we  have  to  check  it  as  best 
we  can  by  a  few  names  of  towns  now  nearly  a  century  old,  and  not  always 
indicating  a  present  location,  together  with  what  we  may  suppose  to  have  been 
ordinary  days'  journeys.  Camp  of  the  13th  may  be  set  somewhere  within  the 
limits  of  the  present  Bosque  del  Apache  Grant,  a  good  ways  below  Bosquecitos 
and  San  Pedro  on  the  E.,  or  San  Jose  and  San  Antonio  on  the  W.  A  view  of 
the  Bosque  faces  p.  499  of  Abert's  report.  The  grant  named  is  a  small  trian- 
gular area  whose  N.  base  is  the  S.  border  of  the  Socorro  Grant,  whose  W.  side 
adjoins  the  E.  border  of  the  Armendaris  Grant,  and  whose  apex  is  at  or  near 
Mt.  Pascal  (Cerro  San  Pascual).  Old  Fort  Conrad  was  built  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  river,  nearly  opposite  but  a  little  above  Valvertle.  Valverde  was  inhab- 
ited during  the  first  quarter  of  this  century,  but  the  inhaliitants  were  killed 
or  driven  off  by  the  Apaches  and  Navajos,  and  it  showed  nothing  Init  its  ruins 
in  1846,  as  delineated  on  the  plate  of  Abert's  report,  facing  p.  506.  Writing 
of  1839,  Gregg  says,  Comm.  Pra.  II.  1844,  p.  71:  "  We  passed  the  southern- 
most settlements  of  New  Mexico,  and  20  or  30  miles  further  down  the  river  we 


634  FRA   CRISTOBAL. 

This  day  one  of  our  horses  threw  a  young  woman  and  ran 
off,  as  is  the  habit  of  all  Spanish  horses,  if  by  chance  they 
throw  their  rider ;  many  of  the  dragoons  and  Malgares 
pursued  him.  Being  mounted  on  an  elegant  horse  of 
Malgares',  I  joined  in  the  chase,  and  notwithstanding 
their  superior  horsemanship  overtook  the  horse,  caught  his 
bridle,  and  stopped  him,  when  both  of  the  horses  were 
nearly  at  full  speed.  This  act  procured  me  the  applause 
of  the  Spanish  dragoons,  and  it  is  astonishing  how  much  it 
operated  on  their  good  will. 

Mar.  i^-th.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  halted  at  a 
mountain  ["  of  the  Friar  Christopher,"  p.  639,  /.  e.,  Fra  Cris- 
tobal]; distance  10  miles."     This  is  the  point  from  which 

came  to  the  niins  of  Valverde.  This  village  was  founded  about  20  years  ago, 
in  one  of  the  most  fertile  valleys  of  the  Rio  del  Norte.  It  increased  rapidly  in 
population,  until  it  was  invaded  by  the  Navajoes,  when  the  inhabitants  were 
obliged  to  abandon  the  place  after  considerable  loss,  and  it  has  never  since  been 
repeopled."  This  locality,  in  a  narrow,  sandy  valley,  some  15  m.  by  the  road 
above  Fra  Cristobal  mt.,  used  to  be  a  point  of  departure  in  various  directions 
from  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  name  occurs  continually  in  the  history  of  scouts 
on  reconnoissances  in  this  region  before  our  Civil  War  ;  it  w.is  the  general 
rendezvous  of  Doniphan's  forces,  preparatory  to  his  invasion  of  Mexico  and 
capture  of  Chihuahua  ;  and  it  was  the  scene  of  a  battle,  for  gallant  and  meri- 
torious services  in  which  action  a  particular  friend  of  mine,  Allen  Latham 
Anderson,  was  brevetted  major,  Feb.  21st,  1862. 

"To-day's  itinerary  brings  up  a  number  of  interesting  and  import.ant 
points,  not  evident  at  first  sight.  lielow  Valverde  and  San  I'ascual  mt.  Pike 
comes  to  a  section  of  the  river  which  has  made  much  history.  Along 
here,  above  and  below  Valverde,  within  a  very  few  miles  of  one  another,  are 
the  sites  of  Fort  Conrad  and  old  Fort  Craig,  both  on  the  W.  bank  of  the 
river ;  the  position  of  the  present  places  known  as  Amy,  San  Marcia,  and 
Plaza  Grande  on  the  W.,  with  La  Mesa  and  Contadero  on  the  E. ;  the 
present  crossing  of  the  railroad  to  the  Mesa  Prieta,  from  points  higher 
up  on  the  W.;  and  below  this  the  Rio  Grande  crossing  known  as  Paraje 
ferry,  near  the  ])lace  of  that  name  on  the  E.  But  we  are  mainly  concerned  to 
discover  Pike's  "point  from  which  the  road  leaves  the  river";  .and  why  at 
this  point  his  escort  should  have  aliandoned  the  main  road  due  S.,  two 
days'  journey,  to  take  him  across  the  river  and  then  S.  W.,  by  a  rough  and 
roundabout  w.ay  for  several  days  till,  bearing  S.  E.,  the  route  should  strike 
the  S.  end  of  the  direct  road  which  had  been  left  at  its  N.  end.  If  we  should 
imagine  some  dark  Spanish  mystery  here,  we  should  be  mistaken  ;  for  Mal- 
gares simply  took  Pike  that  way  to  avoid  the  terrible  Jornada  del  Muerto — 


JORNADA   DEL   MUERTO.  635 

the  road  leaves  the  river  for  two  days'  journey  bearing  due 
south,  the  river  here  taking  a  turn  southwest ;  by  the  river 
it  is  five  days  to  where  the  roads  meet.  We  marched  at 
four  o'cloclc,  and  eight  miles  below  crossed  the  river  to 
the  west  side  ;  two  mules  fell  in  the  water.  Unfortunately, 
they  carried  the  stores  of  Lieutenant  Malgares,  by  which 

that  Macabresque  march  which  too  often  proved  to  be  literally  a  "  journey  of 
the  dead."  It  is  now,  as  it  was  then,  the  groat  highway  directly  N.  and 
S. ;  but  what  is  now  bowled  over  at  ease  in  a  few  hours  by  rail,  was  then 
the  toilsome,  perilous,  and  sometimes  fatal  journey  through  an  awful  desert. 
When  I  was  in  New  Mexico,  30  years  ago,  oflicers  and  others  who  had  made 
this  Jornada  were  never  weary  of  descanting  upon  the  terrors  of  that  "ninety 
miles  without  a  drop  of  water,"  as  it  was  commonly  said  to  be.  The  trip  is 
not  quite  so  far  as  this,  between  the  points  where  the  river  is  usually  left 
and  regained  ;  but  it  is  not  much  less,  and  lives  often  hung  upon  the  uncer- 
tainty whether  any  water  could  be  found  at  a  midway  point  known  as  Laguna 
del  Muerto,  or  Lake  of  the  Dead.  The  route  of  the  Jornada  is  like  the  string 
of  a  bow  whose  arc  is  the  Rio  Grande,  stretched  straight  up  and  down  the 
desert  between  the  river  on  the  W.  and  the  San  Andreas  range  on  the  E.,  or 
rather  between  this  range  and  those  mountains  on  the  W.  of  itself  which  close 
in  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  cause  its  dellection,  and  render  travel  along  its 
left  (E.)  bank  difiicult  or  impossible.  Hence  the  crossing  of  the  river  at  a 
point  above  them,  to  go  along  the  right  or  W.  bank,  as  Malgares  did,  was  the 
alternative  to  the  Jornada  del  Muerto.  The  mountains  in  mention  are  a 
barren  range  which  begins  to  hug  the  river  in  the  vicinity  of  Paraje,  below 
Contadero,  and  is  known  as  the  Era  Cristobal  range  ;  this,  or  rather  the  north- 
ern end  of  it,  is  the  "  mountain  of  the  Friar  Christopher,"  of  which  Pike  speaks. 
The  chain  continues  southward  (with  only  partial  interruption,  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  Fort  McKae),  as  the  Sierra  de  los  Caballos,  or  Horse  range.  Pike  lays 
down  ranges  at  three  separate  points,  lettered  "Las  Pennuclas"  (for  Los 
Pen.iculos.  the  Pinnacles),  "  Horse  Mn-"  and  "Death  M".";  the  first  of  these 
being  an  elevation  of  the  Cristolja!  range,  probably  th.at  now  called  Cristobal 
Peak,  and  the  second  and  third  being  parts  of  the  Caballos  range.  Whatever 
the  e.\act  point  at  which  the  main  road  left  the  river  when  Pike  passed,  it  was 
near  if  not  at  the  same  point  whence  the  Jornada  has  begun  for  half  a  century 
at  least,  and  which  took  the  name  Era  Cristobal  from  the  mountain.  Thus,  we 
read  in  Gregg,  Comm.  Pra.  IL  1S44,  pp.  71-72  :  "  Our  next  camping  place 
deserving  of  mention  was  Fray  CrisMal,  which,  like  many  others  on  the 
route,  is  neither  town  nor  village,  but  a  simple  isolated  point  on  the  river- 
bank — a  mere  parage,  or  camping-ground  .  .  .  thus  being  the  threshold  of  the 
famous /(V-«i;(/iJ  i/fl  Muerln."  The  words  of  Dr.  Wislizenus  on  this  subject  arc 
to  precisely  the  same  effect,  Mem.,  1848,  ]>.  38:  "This  camping  place  is 
known  .as  Fray  Ciislobal ;   but  as  there  is  neither  house  nor  settlement  here,  and 


636  JORNADA  DEL  MUERTO. 

means  we  lost  all  our  bread,  an  elegant  assortment  of  bis- 
cuits, etc.     Distance  18  miles. 

Sunday,  Mar.  i^tli.     Marched  at  half  past  ten  o'clock. 

one  may  fix  his  camp  close  on  or  some  distance  from  the  river,  the  limits  of 
Fray  Cristobal  are  not  so  distinctly  defined  as  those  of  a  city,  and  generally  the 
last  camping  place  on  or  near  tlie  Rio  del  Norte  before  entering  the  Jornada 
del  Muerto  is  understood  by  it."  Doniphan's  troops  were  more  than  three 
days  in  making  the  Jornada  :  Hughes,  Don.  Exp.,  1847,  P-  95-  Here  the  road 
left  the  river  valley  by  a  contadero,  and  passed  on  to  the  desert.  The  first 
lap  of  the  Jornada  was  26  m.  to  the  Laguna  del  Muerto,  usually  dry,  sometimes 
holding  water  after  a  rain.  (Pike  lays  this  down  rather  too  far  N.,  .-is  the 
"  Lago  del  munto  "  by  mistake  of  the  engraver.)  Thus  when  Gregg  passed  in 
1839,  "  there  was  not  even  a  vestige  of  water,"  /.  <r.,  p.  73.  "  The  marshes," 
he  continues,  "  said  by  some  historians  to  be  in  the  vicinity,  are  nowhere  to  be 
found  ;  nothing  but  the  firmest  and  dryest  table  land  is  to  be  seen  in  every 
direction.  To  procure  water  for  our  thirsty  animals,  it  is  often  necessary  to 
make  a  halt  here,  and  drive  them  to  the  Ojo  del  Muerto  (Dead  Man's  Spring), 
five  or  six  miles  to  the  westward,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  mountain  ridge  that 
lay  between  us  and  the  river.  This  region  is  one  of  the  favorite  resorts  of  the 
Apaches,  where  many  a  poor  arriero  has  met  witli  an  untimely  end.  The 
route  which  leads  to  the  spring  winds  for  two  or  three  miles  down  a  narrow 
canon  or  gorge,  overhung  on  either  side  by  abrupt  precipices,  while  the  various 
clefts  and  crags,  which  project  their  gloomy  brows  over  the  abyss  below,  seem 
to  move  the  murderous  savage  to  deeds  of  horror  and  blood."  The  second  lap 
of  the  Jornada  was  28  m.  to  a  place  called  Perillo  (iju  :  same  as  Barilla?),  to  be 
found  on  present  maps  as  Point  of  Rocks,  where  water  may  be  found  in  holes. 
The  third  stage  was  23  m.,  finishing  the  Jornada  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Selden. 
This  total  of  77  m.— easily  becoming  the  "90  "of  tradition — could  be  made 
in  two  days,  as  Pike  says  ;  the  usual  method  being  to  cover  the  distance  in  three 
marches  of  a  night,  next  day,  and  the  following  night.  Tlie  road  itself  is  not 
bad  ;  only  the  possibility  or  probability  of  77  m.  without  water  made  it  a  terror. 
As  may  be  seen  even  from  tlie  map  on  the  railroad  folder,  the  Jornada  was 
nearly  coincident  with  the  present  line  from  Contadero  due  S. ;  but  the 
track  leaves  the  river  a  little  higher  up,  and  strikes  it  again  also  higher  up,  at 
Rincon.  The  first  portion  of  the  track  runs  through  mal  pais,  as  tliey  call 
ground  strewn  with  rough  and  gritty  fragments  of  lava,  which  makes  traveling 
bad  ;  there  is  a  station  called  Lava  from  this  circumstance,  and  also  a  certain 
Lava  Butte,  near  the  station  Pope,  The  rails  continue  by  Crocker  and  Round 
mt.  to  the  station  Eagle,  whence  a  road  goes  oft  W.  to  the  Fort  McRae  reserva- 
tion ;  stations  further  along  are  Cutler,  Upham,  and  Granada,  the  last  being  near 
the  Point  of  Rocks,  formerly  called  Perillo,  near  where  the  st.age  station  used  to 
be  ;  whence  the  run  is  into  Rincon,  at  a  point  on  tlie  river  opposite  Angostura, 
where  Pike  comes  along  on  the  17th.  A  camping-ground  on  tlie  river,  at  this 
end  of  the  Jornada,  was  known  as  Robledo  (Oaks). 


DETOUR   ON   WEST  SIDE   OF   THE    RIVER.  637 

Made    28  miles,  the    route    rough   and    stony ;    course   S. 
20°  W." 

Mar.  16th.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  and  halted  at 
twelve.  Passed  on  the  east  side  the  Horse  mountain,  and 
the  Mountain  of  the  Dead."     Came  on  a  trail  of  theappear- 

**  The  whole  of  this  way  is  bad,  being  cut  across  by  a  series  of  arroyos  or 
gulclies  making  down  from  the  San  Mateo  and  Minibres  ranges.  These  moun- 
tains are  a  part  of  the  general  chain  which  Pike  maps  in  linear  continuity  as  one 
which  forms  the  "  Dividing  Ridge  between  the  Waters  of  Rio  del  Norte  and 
those  of  the  Gulf  of  California  " — that  is,  the  Continental  Divide.  At  one 
point  in  these  ranges  Pike  legends  very  conspicuously  "  Grand  Copper  Mines, 
worked."  It  is  also  shown  on  the  map  of  Lieut. -Col.  Philip  St.  George  Cooke, 
of  his  route  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Gila,  etc.,  in  1846-47,  Ex.  Doc.  No.  41, 
30th  Cong.,  1st  Sess.,  pub.  1848  ;  and  a  "  view  of  the  copper  mine  "  forms  the 
subject  of  the  plate  opp.  p.  59  of  the  same  volume,  in  Lieut.  W.  H.  Emory's 
report:  see  also  ibid.,  A.  R.  Johnston's  report,  pp.  577,  578  fig.  The  head- 
waters of  the  Rio  Gila  are  across  the  divide  of  the  Mimbres  range.  As  the 
party  goes  down  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande,  say  from  the  Nogal  arroyo  or  the 
site  of  the  vill.age  now  called  San  Jose,  opposite  Fra  Cristobal,  0,6oo  feet,  they 
have  the  range  of  the  latter  name  on  the  left,  or  E.,  immediately  across  the 
river,  while  the  San  Mateo  peak,  10,200  feet,  towers  on  the  N.  W. 

'■"Before  coming  to  his  Horse  mt..  Pike  passed  several  points  of  note.  He 
crossed  Rio  Alamoso  or  Canada  Alamosa  near  camp  (unless  he  was  already  beyond 
it),  and  next  Rio  Cuchillo  Negro,  between  these  two,  but  off  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  river,  was  built  Fort  McRae,  in  the  southern  foothills  of  the  Fra  Cristobal 
range  (vicinity  of  Elephant  Butte  and  Ojo  del  Muerto).  There  is  or  was  a  cross- 
ing of  the  Rio  Grande  from  the  fort,  called  Fest's  ferry.  Horse  mt.  of  Pike  is 
now  called  Caballo  Cone  ;  it  rises  at  the  N.  extremity  of  the  range  of  the  Horse 
mts.,  usually  known  by  the  Spanish  name  of  Sierra  delos  Caballos.  The  Mt.  of 
the  Dead  is  another  elevation  of  this  range,  but  which  one  is  less  easily  deter- 
mined. It  was  at  or  near  the  S.  end  of  this  range  ;  see  the  positions  of  "  Horse 
M"-"  and  "  Dead  M°-"  on  the  map.  Pike  also  marks  a  mountain  close  to  his 
trail,  on  the  W.,  by  the  name  of  "  Rabledillo."  This  I  take  to  be  Cerro 
Cuchillo  Negro,  opposite  Caballo  Cone,  between  Rio  Cuchillo  Negro  and  Rio 
Palomo  (Pigeon  cr.).  The  latter  is  crossed  at  its  mouth  (Los  Palomos)  ;  Rio 
Animas  is  crossed  (Brent's)  ;  and  several  arroyos  or  dry  washes  are  passed,  till  the 
party  is  well  down  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Horse  range,  within  some  25  m.  of  where 
the  Rio  Grande  will  be  crossed  to-morrow.  Camji  is  apparently  between  the 
mouths  of  Rio  Perchas  and  Cienega  Apache,  which  fall  in  near  together  on  the 
W.  Hillsborough,  seat  of  Sierra  Co.  (which  Pike  entered  when  he  left  Socorro 
Co.  on  the  15th),  is  situ.ated  about  20  m.  up  Rio  Perchas.  Near  this  camp,  and 
nearly  opposite  his  Dead  mt. ,  Pike  marks  an  elevation  by  the  name  of  "  La 
Ranchero,"  which  appears  to  be  that  which  approaches  the  Rio  Grande  most 
closely  between  Cienega  Apache  and  White  Water  cr.     In  any  event,  this  is 


638  THE   RIVER   RECROSSED   TO   THE   EAST. 

ance  of  200  horses,  supposed  to  be  the  trail  of  an  expedi- 
tion from  the  province  of  Biscay,  against  the  Indians. 

Mar.  lytli.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  at  four  in  the 
afternoon  crossed  the  river  to  the  east  side  ;  saw  several 
fresh  Indian  tracks ;  also,  the  trail  of  a  large  party  of 
horses,  supposed  to  be  Spanish  troops  in  pursuit  of  the 
Indians.     Marched  down  the  river  26 miles;'"  fresh  sign  of 

one  of  the  foothills  of  the  Mimbres  range,  as  are  several  others  I'ike  maps  in 
this  vicinity.     See  next  note. 

'•"  Not  26  ni.  after  crossing  the  river,  but  from  last  camp,  from  which  it  is 
about  26  m.  to  make  the  crossing.  In  this  trip  Pike  turns  the  W.  and  S.  flank 
of  the  Sierra  de  los  Caballos  or  Horse  mts. ,  having  these  first  E.  and  then  N.  of 
his  route  (on  his  left  all  the  way).  In  so  doing  he  passes  from  Sierra  into  Dona 
Ana  Co.,  and  goes  by  a  number  of  notable  points,  some  of  which  he  maps.  On 
the  W.  side  of  the  river,  in  Dona  Ana  Co.,  at  or  near  present  Santa  Barbara, 
was  the  site  of  old  Fort  Thorn  and  the  old  Indian  Agency ;  Beck's  ferry  was 
also  hereabouts.  I'ike  sets  four  mountains  on  his  right,  at  different  distances  to 
the  W.  and  S.  These  are  lettered  (l)  "  Esterolargo,"  (2)  "  S.  Jacomb,"  (3)  "  La 
Salmera,"  (4)  "  Piadro."  These  are  some  of  the  most  elevated  points  in  the 
rugged  and  irregularly  broken  country  to  the  south  of  the  Horse  and  Mimbres 
ranges ;  and  tlieir  relative  positions  as  mapped  by  Pike  agree  so  well  with  those 
of  certain  well-known  elevations  that  identifications  may  be  attempted  ;  (l) 
Esterolargo  seems  to  correspond  to  the  Cerro  Magdalen,  between  Fort  Selden 
on  the  E.  and  old  Fort  Cummings  on  the  \V.  (2)  is  in  the  position  of  the  Good 
Sight  mts.,  about  half-way  between  the  Magdalens  and  Fort  Cummings.  A 
branch  of  the  A.,  T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R.,  from  Rincon  on  the  Rio  Grande  to 
Deming,  runs  past  the  Magdalens  (station  Sellers)  and  thence  through  the  Good 
Sight  mts.  by  Burr's  Pass  (station  Nutt),  between  Good  Sight  Peak  and  Sunday 
Cone.  Fort  Cummings  was  built  in  that  southern  extension  of  the  Mimbres 
range  known  as  Cooke's  range  :  leave  railroad  for  the  fort  at  Cummings  station, 
or  keep  on  past  Coleman  to  Deming,  etc.  (3)  is  Cerro  Robledo,  on  W.  bank  of 
the  Rio  Grande,  immediately  S.  of  Fort  Selden.  (4)  may  be  intendutl  for  the 
Florida  mts.,  on  the  boundary  between  Dona  Ana  and  Grant  cos.,  directly  S.  of 
Fort  Cummings  20  and  30  m. ,  not  so  far  S.  E.  of  Deming.  Pike  crosses  the 
Rio  Grande  from  W.  to  E.,  at  or  near  where  the  railroad  now  crosses  in  passing 
between  stations  Hatch  (Colorado)  and  Rincon  ;  camp  at  this  place  or  in  its 
immediate  vicinity,  about  opposite  town  of  Angostura. 

The  practically  identical  language  of  Mar.  17th  and  iSth  shows  that  Pike  has 
duplicated  an  entry,  and  consequently  that  one  day's  march  has  been  lost. 
This  loss  is  irretrievable,  so  far  as  I  can  discover.  Furthennore,  we  have  no 
mileages  for  the  igth  and  20th.  Under  these  circumstances  the  best  we  can  do 
is  to  march  him  into  El  Paso  in  three  laps,  set  three  camps  ex  hypothesi,  and 
note  in  due  order  the  places  on  the  road  over  which  we  know  he  passed. 


AGAIN   ON   MAIN   ROAD   EAST  OF  THE   RIVER.         639 

Indians,  also  of  a  party  of  horses.  Country  mountainous 
on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

Mar.  i8th.  Marched  down  the  river  26  miles  ; "  fresh 
sign  of  Indians,  also  of  a  party  of  horses.  Country  moun- 
tainous on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

Mar.  igtii.  Struck  out  east  about  three  miles  and  fell 
in  with  the  main  road  [continuing  from  the  Jornada  del 
Muerto],  on  a  large  flat  prairie,  which  we  left  at  the  moun- 
tain of  the  Friar  Christopher.^" 

'■''  To  camp  at  some  point  between  Fort  Selden  and  Dona  Ana,  probably  not 
far  beyond  the  site  of  the  former  post.  The  Military  Reservation  upon  which 
this  long  noted  fort  was  established  includes  a  tract  a  few  miles  square  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  between  the  Cerro  Robledo  on  the  S.  and  San  Diego  mt.  on 
the  N.  and  N.  W.;  eastward  are  some  elevations  known  as  the  Dona  Ana  hills; 
the  Cerro  Magdalen  is  due  W.,  but  at  a  much  greater  distance.  A  few  miles 
below  Rincon  and  Angostura  the  river  enters  the  Selden  canon,  where  it  is 
straitened  between  Mt.  San  Diego  on  the  E.  and  highlands  on  the  \V. ;  the  rail- 
road traverses  this  canon,  with  the  stations  Tonuco  near  its  head  and  Randall 
below  ;  the  position  of  the  fort  is  between  the  latter  and  L.easburg,  on  the  E. 
bank  of  the  river.  Pike's  map  shows  a  marked  bend  or  loop  of  the  dotted  trail 
of  the  iStli,  and  I  suppose  this  indicates  where  he  went  around  Mt.  San  Diego. 
There  used  to  be  a  place  called  San  Diego  here,  about  opposite  the  point 
where  the  old  Cooke  trail  left  the  river.  Dona  Ana  was  founded  on  the  E, 
bank  of  the  river,  say  60  m.  by  road  from  El  Paso.  This  town  was  started  in 
or  about  1839,  by  settlers  from  El  Paso,  and  10  years  later  had  a  population  of 
300,  mostly  Mexicans,  who  required  the  protection  of  the  military  from  the 
Apaches.  The  railroad  passes  by  but  not  through  the  present  town,  which  has 
given  name  to  the  county,  though  the  county  seat  is  at  Las  Cruces.  Both  of 
these  places  are  included  in  the  Dona  Ana  Bend  Colony  tract. 

The  Cooke  trail  above  mentioned  is  that  made  by  Lieut. -Col.  Philip  St. 
George  Cooke,  commanding  the  Mormon  battalion  of  the  Army  of  the  West  on 
the  march  from  Santa  Fe,  N.  M.,  to  San  Diego,  Cal..  under  the  guidance  of 
Antoine  Leroux,  in  the  autumn  of  1846.  It  will  be  found  very  clearly  traced, 
from  the  point  of  departure  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Pima  villages  on  the 
Gila,  on  the  sketch-map  accompanying  that  officer's  report  to  General  Kearny, 
Ex.  Doc.  No.  41,  30th  Congr.,  ist  Sess. ,  pub  1848,  pp.  549-563.  It  is  a  round- 
about way  which  loops  far  S.  and  strikes  the  San  Pedro  several  days'  march 
above  the  confluence  of  that  stream  with  the  Gila,  follows  the  San  Pedro  down 
a  piece  northward,  then  strikes  westward  to  Tucson,  and  so  on  N.  W.  to  the 
Gila  at  the  Pima  villages.     The  distance  is  represented  to  have  been  544  m. 

'"  Era  Cristobal,  that  is,  but  to  be  distinguished  from  Pike's  Sierra  Chris- 
topher :  see  note  '",  p.  633,  and  note  '',  p.  635.  The  road  which  Pike  thus 
struck  was  in  direct  continuation  of  the  Jornada  del  Muerto,  on  the  way  to  El 


640  ONE   day's   march   FROM    EL   PASO. 

Mar.  20th.  Halted  at  ten  o'clock,  at  a  salt  lake.  Marched 
until  two  o'clock ;  halted  for  the  day."     Vegetation  began 

Paso,  and  led  by  Las  Cruces,  present  seat  of  Dona  Ana  Co.  This  has  been  for 
many  years  one  of  the  best-known  places  on  the  Rio  Grande  between  Santa  Fe 
and  El  Paso  ;  it  is  located  a  little  off  the  river,  on  the  E.  side.  In  the  vicinity 
of  Las  Cruces,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  is  Messilla,  another  well-known 
town.  The  party  proceeded  past  Tortugas  and  Bosquecito,  to  a  point  somewhere 
beyond  the  site  of  old  Fort  Fillmore,  and  probably  within  the  present  limits  of 
the  Brazito  tract.  This  camp  might  be  lixed  more  e.\actly  by  one  who  could 
say  how  far  short  it  was  of  a  certain  salt  lake  likely  to  be  reached  at  10  a.  m. 
next  day.  The  route  along  here,  as  indeed  from  Fort  Selden,  is  practically 
coincident  with  that  of  the  railroad.  Brazito  became  the  famous  name  of  a 
battle-ground,  after  Christmas  Day  of  1846,  when  Colonel  Doniphan's  regiment 
defeated  and  routed  a  superior  force  of  Mexicans  who  attacked  him.  A  spirited 
account  of  this  engagement  is  given  by  John  T.  Hughes,  Don.  Exp.  1847,  pp. 
96-99,  including  a  plan  of  the  battle-ground.  The  engagement  lasted  half  an 
hour,  about  3  p.  m.  The  spot  is  given  as  "  25  m."  from  El  Paso,  opposite  a 
large  island  in  the  Rio  Grande,  and  also  opposite  a  pass  between  the  lower  end 
of  the  Organ  mts.  and  others  called  the  "White"  mts.  The  Mexicans  num- 
bered about  1,300  men,  of  whom  71  were  killed,  5  taken  prisoners,  and  not  less 
than  150  wounded,  including  their  general.  Ponce  de  Leon  ;  the  American 
casualty  was  8  wounded — none  killed. 

On  Pike's  left  as  he  passes  stand  the  Organ  or  Organon  mts. ,  as  now  so  called 
in  strictness,  being  that  southward  continuation  of  the  San  Andreas  range  which 
is  marked  off  by  a  gap  from  the  rest  of  the  chain.  This  gap  is  the  San  Augustin 
Pass  ;  place  there  called  Organ,  15  m.  E.  by  N.  from  Dona  Ana.  Pike  charts 
these  mountains  :  see  note  ",  p.  631.  They  run  about  S.,  and  as  the  river  is  here 
bearing  S.  S.  E.,  the  two  approach  within  10  to  5  ra.  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
place  where  Fort  Fillmore  stood.  Pike's  "  Sierra  de  la  Cola,"  as  laid  down 
close  to  the  river,  but  due  E.  of  El  Paso,  appears  to  correspond  with  what  is 
now  known  as  the  Franklin  range,  around  which  the  river  finally  turns  E.  to 
escape  from  all  confinement.  Along  the  Rio  Grande  itself  his  map  marks 
nothing  whatever  from  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Selden  to  El  Paso.  But  we  are  now 
approaching  some  of  the  most  important  points  of  the  whole  route. 

"  In  the  vicinity  of  Montoyo,  Tex,,  in  the  extreme  \V.  corner  of  the  State. 
Passing  successively  Mesquite,  Ilerron,  and  Lyndon,  on  the  railro.ad,  with  San 
Miguel  (B,aca  Grant),  La  Mesa,  and  Chamberino  in  succession  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river,  Pike  comes  to  the  station  Anthony  and  the  parallel  of  32°  N.;  on 
crossing  which  he  goes  from  Dona  Ana  Co.,  N.  M.,  into  EI  Paso  Co.,  Tex.,  as 
he  proceeds  down  the  left  or  E.  bank  of  the  liver  ;  had  he  been  on  the  other 
side  he  would  have  remained  in  New  Mexico  until  he  entered  present  Chihuahua 
at  lat.  31°  47'  N.  For  the  course  of  the  Rio  Grande  itself  makes  the  irregular 
boundary  of  Texas  for  15  or  20  m.,  from  the  point  where  the  parallel  of  32°  N. 
strikes  the  river  from  the  E.,  to  that  where  the  parallel  of  31°  47'  N.  leaves  the 
river  on  the  W,     This  break  or  fault  (as  a  miner  would  say  of  a  lead  that  acted 


EL  PASO   DEL  NORTE.  64I 

to  be  discoverable  on  the  17th,  and  this  day  the  weeds  and 
grass  were  quite  high. 

Mar.  3ist.  Marched  in  the  morning  and  arrived  at  the 
passo  [El  Paso"'']  del  Norte  at  eleven  o'clock,  the  road  lead- 
so)  of  the  straight  border  between  Texas  and  New  Mexico,  where  the  boundary 
slips  13'  .S.  down  the  Rio  Grande,  is  one  of  the  politico-geographical  curiosities 
of  the  situation,  which  would  only  be  fully  understood  upon  mastering  the  com- 
plicated history  of  the  U.  S.  and  Mexican  Boundary  Survey  in  all  the  bitterness 
of  its  personal  episodes.  Some  of  these  points  are  considered  in  the  following 
note.  From  lat.  31°  47'  N.  on  the  Rio  Grande,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  El 
Paso,  Tex.,  and  of  El  Paso  del  Norte  (Ciudad  Juarez),  in  Chihuahua,  the  river 
forms  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  the  Republic  of  Mexico — 
that  is,  between  Texas  and  the  Mexican  States  of  Chihuahua,  Coahuila, 
Nuevo  Leon,  and  Tamaulipas — on  a  circuitous  but  in  general  S.  E.  course  to 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

'^  Tlie  celebrated  place  to  which  our  friend  has  thus  been  conducted  by  his 
friends,  the  enemy,  must  not  be  confounded  with  our  little  town  of  El  Paso, 
Tex.  This  grew  up  yesterday,  so  to  speak  ;  that  dates  from  about  1680,  as 
a  Spanish  settlement  begun  after  the  great  Pueblo  revolt,  when  Governor  Oter- 
min's  people  were  driven  out  of  Santa  Fe.  Before  Pike  was  welcomed  by  the 
civil  and  ecclesiastical  dignitaries  of  El  Paso  del  Norte,  he  crossed  the  great 
river,  and  thus  passed  from  the  State  of  Texas  into  that  of  Chihuahua,  as  these 
are  now  bounded.  He  would  have  said  that  he  simply  went  across  the  river 
which  flows  in  the  province  of  North  or  New  Mexico  of  the  kingdom  of  New 
Spain,  and  had  not  yet  reached  the  province  of  New  Biscay.  But  aside  from 
any  of  the  political  affairs  which  spoil  the  complexion  of  the  maps,  El  Paso 
is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  positions  in  North  America,  unique  in  some 
respects.  With  regard  to  the  tide  of  emigration  which  set  westward  by  south- 
ern lines  of  travel  to  the  California  of  the  forty-niners,  it  is  comparable  with 
that  place  by  which,  from  time  immemorial,  the  nations  have  passed  from 
Asia  into  Europe,  along  what  has  been  fitly  styled  the  "  highway  of  the 
world."  But  El  Paso  is  not  only  a  half-way  house  from  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  to  that  of  California ;  it  is  the  continental  cross-roads.  For  the 
ebb  and  flow  of  human  tides  set  with  conflicting  currents,  north  and  south, 
long  before  the  first  page  of  American  history  was  traced,  and  will  continue 
forever  in  motion  by  El  Paso.  There  is  the  turning-point  of  that  great  river 
which  was  Rio  del  Norte  above  this  pass,  and  Rio  Grande  or  Rio  Bravo 
below.  "El  Paso"  is  certainly,  as  it  always  has  been,  the  place  of  fording 
or  crossing  the  river — Gregg  says  it  was  called  by  Americans  "  The  Pass," 
and  speaks  of  "  Pass  wine"  and  "  Pass  whiskey,"  as  they  named  the  liquors 
made  there — but  that  is  not  the  implication  of  the  name.  "El  Paso"  is  the 
mountain-iiass— el  paso  del  Rio  del  Norte— the  place  where  the  river  passes 
from  the  mountains  to  the  plains.  We  have  traced  it  from  Pike's  stockade 
on   the   Conejos,  in  the    S.w    Luis    valley,  almost   due    S.,  in   an    immense 


642  EL   RIO   GRANDE   DEL   NORTE. 

ing  through  a  hilly  and  mountainous  country.     We  put  up 

trough  of  several  hundred  miles'  length,  during  the  whole  of  which  distance 
it  has  been  seen  to  be  closely  confined  to  its  mountain  bed,  hemmed  in  on  the 
W.  by  the  continental  divide  or  its  several  outliers,  on  the  E.  by  successive 
ranges  of  not  less  dignity  and  importance.  In  all  this  course  it  receives  no 
more  than  mere  creeks  from  the  eastern  side  ;  while  from  the  W.  its  tributaries 
are  comparatively  few  and  small  rivers.  But  at  El  Paso  the  river  turns  out 
of  bed,  so  to  say,  with  hardly  a  figure  of  speech,  to  go  all  abroad  in  the  open 
country,  drawing  to  itself  large  tributaries  on  its  way  to  the  sea.  Yet  it  has 
another  strait-jacketing  to  suffer  in  forcing  its  way  through  the  last  moun- 
tains that  rise  to  obstruct  its  course.  The  struggle  begins  near  the  entrance 
of  the  Rio  Conchas  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Presidio  del  Norte,  one  of  the 
oldest  establishments  in  northern  Mexico  ;  it  continues  for  many  miles  through 
a  series  of  canons  in  the  Bofecillos,  San  Carlos,  and  other  mountains.  During 
this  passage  the  river  makes  a  sharp  elbow  from  S.  E.  northward,  and  then 
with  a  bold  sweep  recovers  its  former  course  ;  it  receives  its  tribute  from  the 
Pecos,  its  largest  branch  ;  then,  freed  from  its  last  fetters  and  augmented  in 
force,  the  Rio  Grande  winds  its  way  to  the  Gulf,  having  well  won  the  title 
"  Bravo."  Such  action  is  the  more  to  be  applauded  if  we  remember  that  above 
the  canon-formations  the  river  sometimes  sinks  exhausted  into  the  ground,  and 
its  bed  may  become  for  many  miles  a  wagon-road.  The  great  flexures  of  the 
river  lie  within  about  a  degree  of  latitude  (29"  to  30°  N.),  and  the  series  of  canons 
is  between  the  io2d  and  105th  meridians.  Major  Emory  speaks  of  that  great 
bend  of  the  river  as  "  one  of  the  most  remarkable  features  on  the  face  of  the 
globe — that  of  a  river  traversing  at  an  oblique  angle  a  chain  of  lofty  mountains, 
and  nuiking  through  these,  on  a  gigantic  scale,  what  is  called  in  Spanish 
America  a  canon — that  is,  a  river  hemmed  in  by  vertical  walls,"  U.  S.  and 
Mex.  B.  Surv.  I.  1857,  p.  42.  With  due  deference,  and  no  desire  to  derogate 
from  the  dignity,  either  of  the  Rio  Grande  or  of  its  canonation,  I  do  not 
see  that  we  have  not  several  parallel  cases  in  this  country,  some  of  which 
are  on  a  scale  of  not  inferior  magnitude.  The  essential  features  of  the  case 
are  those  of  a  great  river  which  has  once  left  its  bed  in  mountains  about  its 
origin,  traversed  open  country,  and  then  forced  its  way  through  canon-forma- 
tion in  another  range  or  spur.  The  Arkansaw,  heading  in  the  continental 
divide,  breaks  out  upon  the  plain  at  Canon  City,  through  a  chasm  in  another 
range.  The  Soutli  I'latte  traverses  South  Park,  and  the  North  Platte,  North 
Park,  to  seek  the  plains  through  other  mountains  than  those  in  which  they 
respectively  head.  The  Yellowstone  has  its  upper  canon  and  then  comes  out 
at  Livingston  through  a  lower  one.  The  Missouri  itself  leaves  its  sources  far 
remote  from  the  range  through  which  it  finally  makes  its  exit  from  Lewis  and 
Clark's  Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.     And  just  think  of  the  Columbia  ! 

Pike  has  nothing  to  say  of  any  place  on  the  Rio  Grande  oiiposite  the 
Mexican  town  of  El  Paso,  at  or  near  where  El  Paso  stands  in  Texas.  But 
the  valley  has  been  settled  and  cultivated  from  remote  antiquity,  and  the  clus- 
tering of  the  population  at  various  points  gave  rise  to  towns  or  pueblos,  all  of 


EL    PASO   OF   TEXAS   AND    VICINITY.  643 

at  the  house  of  Don  Francisco  Garcia,  who  was  a  mercliant 

which,  of  course,  had  names,  though  several  of  these  have  lapsed  forever. 
Maps  now  nearly  half  a  century  old  mark  on  the  Texan  side  several  places 
by  the  names  of  Frontera,  La  Frontera,  or  Las  Fronteras  ;  Isleta,  a  Tanoan 
pueblo  (in  what  is  now  Texas — distinguish  from  the  other  Tanoan  pueblo, 
Isleta,  in  New  Mexico);  Socorro  ;  San  Elceario,  or  Elizario  ;  also,  Franklin 
and  Fort  Bliss — all  these  before  there  was  any  El  Paso  in  Texas.  Present 
maps  show,  below  Montoyo,  Santa  Teresa,  Frontera,  El  Paso,  Isleta,  San 
Elizario,  and  so  on  down  the  river  along  the  railroad.  As  to  the  germ  of  the 
American  town  of  El  Paso,  we  find  that  Captain  S.  G.  French,  in  1849,  came 
up  the  Rio  Grande  "  to  the  intersection  of  the  Santa  Fe  road  at  the  rancho 
opposite  El  Paso";  and  again  ;  "  El  Paso  is  wholly  situated  in  Mexico — there 
being,  excepting  the  three  villages  on  the  island  [San  Elizario,  Socorro,  Isleta], 
but  three  houses  on  the  American  side."  French's  mileages  by  odometer  in 
coming  up  the  river  on  the  Texan  side,  arc  :  San  Elizario  to  Socorro,  5.45  m.; 
Socorro  to  Isleta,  3.10;  Isleta  to  Upper  Ford,  7.05  ;  Upper  Ford  to  Coon's 
Hacienda,  7.09  ;  total,  22.6g,  or  22%  m.  from  San  Elizario  to  where  the  Santa 
Fe  road  came  to  the  river  to  cross  to  El  Paso,  Mex.  (Reports  of  Reconn.,  etc., 
8vo,  Washington,  1850,  p.  53 — not  a  book  very  easy  to  find.)  A  table  of  dis- 
tances in  the  reverse  direction  and  bringing  in  two  more  of  the  above  names, 
is  furnished  by  Major  Emory,  U.  S.  and  M.  P..  S.,  I.  1857,  p.  135  :  Franklin 
(opposite  El  Paso)  to  Fort  IJliss,  2  m.;  Fort  P.liss  to  Isleta,  12.14;  Isleta  to 
Socorro,  3.10;  Socorro  to  S.an  Elcc.ario,  5.45;  total,  22. 6g,  or  22^^  m.,  as 
before.  If  these  were  independent  measurements,  the  odometers  must  have 
been  good,  as  well  as  the  road  ;  but  I  cite  them  both  to  show  that  Coon's 
Hacienda,  Franklin,  and  El  Paso,  Tex.,  were  the  same  place,  opposite  El 
Paso,  Mex.,  and  that  Fort  BlLss  was  built  2  m.  lower  down.  Writing  of  the 
early  fifties,  Emory  also  states,  op.  cit.,  p.  91  :  "  From  San  Elceario  up  to  El 
Paso,  a  distance  by  the  sinuosities  of  the  river  of  30  miles,  but  by  air-line  of 
only  20  miles,  is  almost  one  continuous  settlement  of  Mexicans  and  Pueblo 
Indians,  with  here  and  there  an  American  farmer  and  trader."  His  estimates 
of  the  population  all  along,  from  El  Paso,  Mex.,  to  .San  Elceario,  are  :  El  Paso 
(including  the  very  ancient  Tanoan  pueldo  of  Sinecn,  supposed  to  have  been 
built  before  the  Spaniards  came),  4,000  ;  Franklin  (present  El  Paso,  Tex.),  200  ; 
Socorro,  300;  San  Elceario,  1,200;  with  1,300  at  places  still  further  down, 
making  a  total  of  7,000.  Isleta  does  not  figure  in  this  census.  This  population 
was  mostly  mixed,  with  little  pure  Spanish,  or  Indian  either.  The  commercial 
importance  of  El  Paso  as  a  port  of  entry  may  be  inferred  from  Emory's  statement 
that,  before  the  jiorts  on  the  lower  Rio  Bravo  were  opened,  for  some  years  as 
much  as  $2,000,000  worth  of  goods  passed  into  Mexico  this  way  ;  figures  sup- 
posed to  have  been  reduced  more  than  one-half  at  the  time  of  which  he  wrote. 
He  describes  the  town  of  El  Paso,  Mex.,  as  "  one  extended  vineyard  in  the 
hands  of  many  projirietors."  The  little  town  of  Frontera,  above  mentioned, 
acquired  some  consequence  in  1852  from  the  erection  there  in  1851  of  one  of 
the  astronomical   stations   at  which    Major    Emory,    U.   S.  Commissioner,  and 


644  UNITED   STATES  AND   MEXICAN   BOUNDARY. 

and  a  planter;  he  possessed   in  the  vicinity  of  the  town 

Don  Jose  Salazar  y  Larregui,  Comisionado  Mexicano,  determined  the  initial 
point  of  the  boundary  W.  of  the  Rio  Grande  along  the  par.  of  31°  47'  N.  The 
position  of  Frontera,  as  decided  and  agreed  upon  by  the  Joint  Commission,  was 
lat.  31°  48'  44.31"  N.,  long.  106"  33'  04.5"  W.  That  of  EI  Paso,  Mex.,  or 
more  exactly,  of  the  cathedral  in  that  place,  was  lat.  31°  44'  15.7"  N.,  long. 
166",  2g'  05.4"  W.  Frontera  was  thus  about  4  minutes  N.  and  W.  of  El  Paso, 
and  the  boundary  started  W.  between  these  two  places  at  a  point  3.41  m. 
about  N.  W.  of  EI  Paso,  and  2.70  m.  about  S.  E.  of  Frontera  ;  the  total 
distance  between  these  two  places  being  6. 11  m.  As  the  Rio  Grande  itself  w.as 
the  natural  boundary  agreed  upon  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  point  where 
the  river  should  intersect  the  parallel  of  31°  47',  the  various  questions  that  were 
to  be  determined  concerned  only  the  boundary  thence  W.  across  country  to  the 
Gulf  of  California  and  so  on  to  the  Pacific.  Two  different  boundaries  were  in 
diplomatic  agreement  for  some  years  before  either  of  them  was  ascertained  on 
the  ground.  These  were  those  provided  for  by  the  treaty  of  Guadalupe 
Plidalgo,  Feb.  2d,  1848,  ratified  Aug.,  1848,  and  by  the  Gadsden  tre.ity  of 
Dec.  30th,  1853,  ratified  June  30th,  1854.  Under  the  former  of  these,  two 
abortive  attempts  were  made  to  establish  two  different  lines  \V.  of  the  Rio 
Grande  ;  and  it  was  fortunate  for  us  that  neither  of  them  succeeded.  The  old 
treaty  was  made  in  the  dark,  on  our  part  at  least,  being  based  upon  the  igno- 
rance of  geography  which  Disturnell's  map  displayed  in  1847.  The  old  treaty 
line  started  on  paper  from  the  Rio  Grande  at  a  point  some  miles  above  Fron- 
tera, went  W.  on  a  certain  parallel  of  latitude,  hypothetical  on  the  ground,  for 
about  180  m.,  through  the  Chiricahua  mts. ,  and  then  turned  due  N.  along  a 
never-determined  meridian  till  it  struck  Rio  CJila,  which  was  thence  the  boun- 
dary W.  to  the  Rio  Colorado.  The  line  agreed  upon  by  U.  S.  Commissioner  John 
B.  Weller  and  Gcner.il  Conde,  the  Comisionado  Mexicano,  started  W.  from  the 
Rio  Grande  at  a  point  in  the  vicinity  of  Dona  Ana,  ran  along  a  parallel  for 
the  same  distance  as  the  other,  and  then  turned  N.  on  a  meridian  to  the  Gila, 
striking  the  latter  at  a  point  further  down  that  river — further  N.  W.,  that  is, 
owing  to  the  difference  of  longitude  of  the  initial  point  on  the  Rio  Grande. 
Both  of  these  were  paper-lines,  assumed  when  the  two  governments  were  feeling 
for  S.  and  W.  borders  of  New  Mexico  as  laid  down  on  Disturnell's  map  ; 
for  Article  V.  of  the  G.  H.  '48  treaty  provided  that  from  the  intersection  of 
the  Rio  Grande  with  the  S.  border  of  New  Mexico  («'herever  that  might  be) 
the  line  should  run  W.  along  the  whole  S.  border  of  New  Mexico,  and  then 
turn  N.  along  the  \V.  border  of  the  same  to  the  Gila.  This  was  decidedly  a 
case  of  oliscurum  per  ol'scuriiis,  so  far  as  laying  down  an  actual  line  was  con- 
cerned, for  nobody  knew  where  the  S.  and  W.  borders  of  New  Mexico  were, 
within  several  minutes  of  latitude  and  longitude.  The  Weller-Conde  line 
above  noted  started  from  the  Rio  Grande  at  lat.  32°  22',  near  Dona  Ana,  and 
went  due  W.  upon  an  assumed  S.  boundary  of  N.  M.  In  1851  such  an  initial 
point  had  been  agreed  upon  ;  a  niomnnent  erected  ;  and  actual  survey  begun 
by  Col.  J.  D.  Graham.      The  other  assumed  S.   boundary  of  N.    M.,   along 


UNITED   STATES  AND   MEXICAN   BOUNDARY.  645 

20,000  sheep  and  1,000  cows.     We  were  received  in  a  most 

which  a  line  was  projected  W.  of  ihe  Rio  Grande  from  an  initial  point  in  the 
vicinity  of  Frontera,  was  very  near  31'  47'.  Both  luckily  failed  to  go  into 
effect.  Such  a  comedy  of  errors,  beginning  on  a  false  basis,  was  conducted 
through  a  tissue  of  blunders  to  an  inevitable  and  fortunate  fiasco.  The  work 
of  the  old  boundary  survey  was  prosecuted  under  a  series  of  commissioners — 
John  B.  Weller ;  John  C.  Fremont,  who  accepted  the  appointment,  but  never 
got  on  the  ground,  and  did  nothing  but  resign  ;  John  R.  Bartlett  ;  and  Robert 
B.  Campbell.  It  wound  up  in  1853  as  an  ignominious  and  acrimonious  failure, 
for  which  net  result  Congress  had  appropriated  $787,112.  This  was  expensive, 
but  profitable  in  the  end  ;  for  the  event  jiroved  that  a  different  boundary  would 
come  cheap  at  that  or  almost  any  other  price.  Almost  down  to  1848,  the  topog- 
raphy of  the  country  between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Colorado  of  the  West 
was  practically  unknown  to  Americans.  But  adventurers,  traders,  and  emigrants 
had  begun  to  set  their  faces  toward  the  west  along  our  borders  ;  and  the  ques- 
tion of  tlie  most  ]iracticable  southern  route  became  one  of  great  and  growing 
importance.  The  War  Department  put  exploring  parties  in  the  field  ;  and 
through  the  labors  of  such  officers  as  Emory,  Abert,  Parke,  Marcy,  Sitgreaves, 
Simpson,  Whipple,  Michler,  J.  E.  Johnston,  S.  G.  French,  W.  F.  Smith,  F.  T. 
Bryan,  and  others,  new  light  was  thrown  upon  a  vast  region,  to  much  of 
which  El  Paso  was  the  key.  Among  other  things,  Emory  developed  the  fact 
that  there  could  be  no  thoroughfare  through  U.  S.  territory  in  the  vicinity  of 
32?  N.,  the  country  being  practically  impassable  by  any  means  of  transportation 
then  available  along  the  parallel  of  32?,  N.  of  the  projected  boundary.  The 
G.  IT.  treaty'48,  to  use  Emory's  words,  "  fixed  a  line  north  of  that  parallel  which 
cut  off  entirely  the  communication  by  wagons  between  the  rivers  [Rios  Grande 
and  Gila]  ;  and  leaving  out  of  view  the  considerations  involved  in  securing 
railway  routes  to  the  Pacific,  it  was  a  line  which  sooner  or  later  must  have  been 
abandoned.  No  traveller  could  pass,  nor  could  a  dispatch  be  sent,  from  a 
military  post  on  the  Rio  Bravo  to  one  on  the  Gila,  without  passing  through 
Mexican  territory."  Our  Mexican  neighbors  evidently  knew  their  country,  as 
well  as  what  they  were  about,  much  better  than  we  did,  until  we  learned  to 
our  cost  what  the  matter  was.  The  already  notorious  errors  of  the  Disturnell 
map  made  any  adjustment  of  the  difiiculty  on  that  basis  impossible,  and  some 
different  understanding  lietween  the  two  countries  became  an  obvious  necessity. 
This  was  effected  by  the  Gadsden  treaty  of  1853,  v,'hich  provided  for  the 
reconstruction  of  the  international  line  on  paper,  and  its  determination  on  the 
ground.  By  the  provisions  of  this  agreement,  the  line  was  to  run  up  the  Rio 
Grande,  as  already  defined  by  the  G.  H.  treaty  '48,  to  the  point  where  the  middle 
of  the  river  should  intersect  the  parallel  of  31?  47'  N.;  thence  due  W.  100  m.; 
thence  due  S.  to  the  parallel  of  31°  20'  N.;  thence  due  W.  to  the  meridian  of 
111°  W. ;  thence  in  a  straight  line  to  a  point  on  the  Colorado  r.  20  English 
miles  below  the  confluence  of  the  Gila  ;  thence  up  the  Colorado  r.  to  the  inter- 
section of  the  already  existing  U.  S.  and  Mexican  line  across  California  to  the 
Pacific.     The  concessions  represented  by  these  terms  were  all-important  to  us  ; 


646  UNITED   STATES   AND   MEXICAN   BOUNDARY. 

hospitable  manner  by  Don  Pedro  Roderique  Rey,  the  heu- 
tenant-governor,  and  Father  Joseph  Prado,  the  vicar  of  the 
place.     This  was  by  far  the  most  flourishing  place  we  had 

they  not  only  secured  the  required  practicable  highway  from  the  Rio  Grande  to 
the  Gila,  but  added  26,185  sq.  m.  to  U.  S.  territory,  as  was  discovered  when 
the  line  was  run.  This  tract  lies  between  the  parallels  of  31°  20'  and  33°  30' 
N.,  and  between  the  meridians  of  106°  30' and  114°  W.;  it  may  be  called,  in  a 
phrase,  so  nnich  of  the  U.  S.  as  lies  S.  of  the  Gila,  in  New  Mexico  and  mainly 
in  Arizona.  William  Ilensley  Emory  was  commissioned  by  President  Pierce, 
Aug.  4th,  '54,  to  carry  out  the  provisions  of  the  treaty  on  the  part  of  the  U.  S., 
and  Don  Jose  Salazar  y  Larregui  was  appointed  to  the  same  otTicial  functions 
on  the  part  of  Mexico.  Major  Emory  was  required  to  meet  the  Mexican 
commissioner  at  El  Paso  by  Oct.  1st,  1854,  and  the  commission  took  the  field 
without  delay.  Congress  appropriated  $168,130,  Aug.  14th,  '54,  and  $71,450, 
Mar.  3d,  '55  ;  total,  $239,580,  for  running  and  marking  tlie  line.  When  tlie 
work  had  been  done,  Jan.  1st,  1856,  Major  Emory  reported  an  unexpended  b.al- 
ance  of  $98,454.59.  He  had  also  to  turn  in,  as  unexpended  balance  of  certain  ap- 
propriations for  the  old  commission  (.altogether  $58,100),  the  sum  of  $37,345,53  ; 
total  to  his  credit,  $135,800. 12,  remaining  of  thcsum  of  $239,5So-f-$5S,ioo= 
$297,680,  of  which  he  had  the  disbursement  and  was  responsible.  It  thus  appears 
that  his  whole  work  cost  the  government  only  $161,879.87  ;  it  was  finished  within 
the  time  estimated  by  the  government  for  its  completion,  and  largely  within  the 
amounts  appropriated  for  the  purpose.  The  boundary  nm  by  Emory  and 
Salazar,  respectively,  agreed  upon  by  them  jointly,  and  accepted  by  both  govern- 
ments, is  at  present  in  effect.  It  starts  from  the  Rio  Grande  between  El  P.aso 
and  Frontera,  at  31"  47',  and  runs  W.  on  that  parallel  100  m.,  to  a  certain  spot 
commonly  referred  to  by  the  name  of  Carrizalillo,  as  that  of  the  nearest  named 
locality  ;  thence  it  drops  meridion.ally  to  the  par.allel  of  31°  20',  at  a  n.ameless 
place  in  the  mountains  ;  thence  it  runs  due  W.  to  the  intersection  of  the  iiith 
meridian  at  a  well-known  place,  Los  Nogales  ;  whence  it  runs  obliquely  to  the 
Colorado  r.,  at  a  point  which  is  (roundly)  20  m.  S.  of  Fort  Yuma  by  the 
channel  of  the  river — Yuma  being  on  the  W.  bank,  and  practically  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Gila.  Aside  from  any  question  of  the  25,185  sq.  m.  and 
the  desirable  right  of  way  thus  secured,  under  the  provisions  of  the  Gadsden 
treaty,  the  abrogation  of  the  nth  article  of  the  G.  II.  treaty  was  all-important 
to  the  U.  .S.  "  This  article,"  to  use  M.ijor  Emory's  words,  "  made  it  incumlient 
on  the  United  .States  to  keep  the  Indians  living  within  our  own  territory  from 
committing  depredations  on  the  Mexicans,  and  by  implication  imposed  on  the 
United  States  the  obligation  of  indemnity  for  all  losses  resulting  from  failure 
to  carry  out  the  provisions  of  the  treaty.  No  amount  of  force  could  have  kept 
the  Indians  from  crossing  the  line  to  commit  depredations,  and  I  think  that 
one  hundred  millions  would  not  pay  the  damages  they  have  inflicted.  Whole 
sections  of  country  have  been  depopulated  and  the  stock  driven  off  and  killed  ; 
and  in  entire  States  the  ranches  have  been  deserted  and  the  people  driven  into 
the  towns.     It  is  true,  all  this  has  not  been  done  since  the  war  [with  Mexico], 


UNITED   STATES  AND   MEXICAN  BOUNDARY.  647 

been  in.  For  a  more  particular  account  of  its  situation, 
population,  etc.,  see  Appendix  to  Part  III.  [now  Chap. 
IV.]. 

and  would  form  no  just  claim  against  the  United  States  ;  but  those  conversant 
with  the  history  of  Mexican  claims  will  at  once  admit  that  the  United  States 
would  have  been  fortunate  if  she  could  have  escaped  with  paying  real  claims 
for  depredations,  whether  committed  before  or  after  the  war.  I  should  not  be 
true  to  history  if  I  did  not  state  what  is  within  my  own  personal  knowledge — 
that  companies  were  formed,  and  others  forming,  composed  of  persons  of 
wealth,  influence,  and  adroitness,  who  projected  extensive  schemes  for  the 
purchase  of  these  claims,  with  the  view  of  extorting  them  from  the  Congress  of 
the  United  States."  Not  the  least  admirable  feature  of  the  present  treaty,  and 
one  which  was  of  equal  moment  to  all  respectable  citizens  of  both  countries,  w.as 
the  fullness  of  the  powers  it  vested  in  the  two  commissioners.  For  Art.  I.  has : 
"  That  line  shall  be  alone  established  upon  which  the  commissioners  may  fix, 
their  consent  in  this  particular  being  considered  decisive  and  an  integral  part  of 
this  treaty,  without  necessity  of  ulterior  ratification  or  approval,  and  without 
room  for  interpretation  of  any  kind  by  cither  of  the  parties  contracting."  This 
kept  the  dirty  hands  of  professional  politicians  out  of  the  affair,  and  left  it  to 
be  settled  by  two  honorable  and  able  men,  free  to  act  at  their  best  judgment 
and  discretion,  besides  being  competent  to  the  requisite  scientific  work  in 
astronomy  and  geodesy.  The  joint  commission,  in  session  on  the  spot,  agreed 
upon  the  initial  point  of  31°  47'  N.  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  Jan. 
loth,  1855  ;  they  marked  it  .and  agreed  to  erect  the  monument  there.  The 
corner-stone  was  laid  Jan.  31st,  in  the  presence  of  each  other  and  of  various 
civil  and  military  dignitaries.  The  commissioners  reconvened  at  Fort  Bliss, 
Aug.  I4th-l6th,  1S55,  to  consider  the  operations  which  had  meanwhile  been 
carried  on  by  themselves  and  their  respective  assistants  ;  whereupon  they  agreed 
to  declare  and  did  declare  the  line  surveyed,  marked,  and  established  as  far  W. 
as  the  Tilth  meridian,  and  from  the  ilith  meridian  to  the  Colorado  r.;  they 
further  agreed,  etc.,  that  the  whole  of  the  line  should  be  decl.ared  fully  estab- 
lished, etc.,  and  the  field-work  concUuled,  whenever  each  should  notify  the 
other  that  certain  topographical  work  then  in  jirogress  had  been  completed  by 
Lieutenant  Michlcr  and  Senor  Jimenez  ;  whereupon,  having  no  further  business, 
the  commission  adjourned  to  meet  in  Washington,  D.  C,  Apr.  1st,  1856. 
The  required  notifications  were  exchanged  Oct.  15th  and  Dec.  iSth,  1855. 
The  work  had  been  done,  and  subsequent  proceedings  were  only  in  the  nature  of 
formalities  between  the  two  governments.  My  authority  for  the  facts  embodied 
in  this  note  is  of  course  the  U.  S.  and  M.  B.  S.  Report  unless  otherwise 
stated.  I  have  been  led  into  this  sketch  of  affairs  of  40  years  ago,  partly  by 
their  intrinsic  interest,  but  mainly  because  they  show  the  st.ite  of  things  at  a 
period  of  time  equidistant  between  Pike's  and  the  present  day. 


CHAPTER   II. 

ITINERARY,  CONTINUED  :  THROUGH  OLD  MEXICO,  IN  CHI- 
HUAHUA, DURANGO,  AND  COAHUILA,  TO  THE  PRESIDIO 
GRANDE,   MARCH    22D-MAY   3IST,    1807. 

^UNDAY,  Mar.  22d.  Remained  at  the  Passo. 
'^  Mar.  2jd.  Mass  performed  ;  left  the  Passo  at  three 
o'clock,  to  Fort  Elisiaira  [Elizario],  accompanied  by  the 
lieutenant-governor,  the  vicar,  and  Allencaster,  a  brother  of 
the  governor.  Malgares,  myself  and  the  doctor  took  up  our 
quarters  at  the  house  of  Capt.  [Blank],  who  was  then  at  Chi- 
huahua ;  but  his  lady  and  sister  entertained  us  in  a  very  ele- 
gant and  hospitable  manner.  They  began  playing  cards  and 
continued  until  late  the  third  day.  Malgares,  who  won  con- 
siderably, would  send  frequently  $15  or  $20  from  the  table 
to  the  lady  of  the  house,  her  sister,  and  others,  and  beg 
their  acceptance,  in  order  that  the  goddess  of  fortune  might 
still  continue  propitious;  in  this  manner  he  distributed  $500. 
Around  this  fort  were  a  great  number  of  Appaches,  who 
were  on  a  treaty  with  the  Spaniards.  These  people  ap- 
peared to  be  perfectly  independent  in  their  manners,  and 
were  the  only  savages  I  saw  in  the  Spanish  dominions  whose 
spirit  was  not  humbled — whose  necks  were  not  bowed  to  the 
yoke  of  their  invaders.  With  those  people  Malgares  was 
extremely  popular.  I  believe  he  sought  popularity  with 
them  and  all  the  common  people,  for  there  was  no  man  so 
poor  or  so  humble,  under  whose  roof  he  would  not  enter; 
when  he  walked  out,  I  have  seen  him  put  a  handful  of  dol- 
lars in  his  pocket,  and  give  them  all  to  the  old  men,  women, 
and  children  before  he  returned  to  his  quarters;  but  to 
equals  he  was  haughty  and  overbearing.  This  conduct  he 
pursued  through  the  whole  provinces  of  New  Mexico  and 

648 


PRESIDIO   SAN   ELIZARIO   TO   SAMALAVUCA.  649 

Biscay,  when  at  a  distance  from  the  seat  of  government ; 
but  I  could  plainly  perceive  that  he  was  cautious  of  his 
conduct  as  he  approached  the  capital  [city  of  Chihuahua]. 
I  here  left  a  letter  for  my  sergeant. 

Mar.  2^th.     Very  bad  weather. 

Mar.  2^th.  The  troops  marched,  but  Lt.  Malgares  and 
my  men  remained. 

Mar.  26th.  Divine  service  was  performed  in  the  morn- 
ing, in  the  garrison,  at  which  all  the  troops  attended  under 
arms.  At  one  part  of  their  mass,  they  present  arms;  at  an- 
other, sink  on  one  knee  and  rest  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  on 
the  ground,  in  signification  of  their  submission  to  their 
divine  master.  At  one  o'clock,  we  bid  adieu  to  our  friendly 
hostess,  who  was  one  of  the  finest  women  I  had  seen  in  New 
Spain.  At  dusk  arrived  at  a  small  pond  made  by  a  spring 
which  arose  in  the  center,  called  the  Ogo  mall  a  Ukap,  and 
seemed  formed  by  providence  to  enable  the  human  race  to 
pass  that  route,  as  it  was  the  only  water  within  60  miles 
on  the  route.  Here  we  overtook  Sergeant  Bclardie  with  the 
party  of  dragoons  from  Senora  and  Biscay,  who  had  left  us 
at  Fort  Elisiaira,  where  we  had  received  a  new  escort.  Dis- 
tance 20  miles.' 

•  The  difficulty  of  trailing  Pike  in  Mexico  is  twofold.  His  notes,  hasty  and 
stealthy  under  the  circiimstancos.  are  necessarily  meager,  and  rather  excite  than 
satisfy  our  curiosity  to  know  more.  Worse  than  this,  all  the  maps  of  Mexico 
are  poor.  I  have  probably  before  me  the  best  maps  that  exist  ;  they  do  not 
compare  with  those  we  have  used  for  most  parts  of  Pike's  route.  The  most 
helpful  one  I  have  found  is  th.at  in  Senate  Misc.  Doc.  No.  26,  30th  Cong.,  1st 
Sess.,  accompanying  a  Memoir  of  a  Tour  to  Northern  Mexico,  connected  with 
Col.  Doniphan's  Expedition,  in  1846  and  1S47,  by  A.  Wislizenus,  M.  D., 
Washington,  Tippin  and  Streeper,  1848,  8vo,  pp.  141.  The  author  was  a  Ger- 
man scientist,  interested  in  geography,  geology,  and  botany.  He  went  over 
much  of  the  identical  route  which  Pike  traveled, — as  far  as  Parras,  near  Sal- 
tillo, — and  has  left  a  luminous  itinerary,  for  the  publication  of  which  we  are 
indebted  to  the  good  sense  of  Thomas  II.  Benton.  This  I  shall  draw  heavily 
upon,  and  wisli  to  make  my  grateful  compliments  to  its  author  in  the  begin- 
ning of  this  route. 

The  Fori  "  Elisiaira"  which  Pike  has  just  left  must  not  be  confounded  with 
the  pl.ace  on  the  river  called  Elizario,  Eleazario,  Elceario,  etc.,  and  descrilicd  in 
my  last  note.      He  is  starting  S.,  on  the  main  road,  .and  the  place  where  the 


650  SAMALAYUCA   TO   CARRIZAL. 

Mar.  zyth.  Arrived  at  Carracal  [Carrizal],  at  twelve 
o'clock,'  Distance  28  miles ;  the  road  well  watered  and 
the    situation   pleasant.     The    father-in-law   of   our   friend 

gambling  dovetailed  so  well  with  religion  was  the  Presidio  San  Elizario,  on  the 
boundary  between  the  then  Provinces  of  North  Mexico  and  New  liiscay.  Two 
roads  led  from  El  Paso  to  Carrizal,  the  principal  place  en  route  to  Chihuahua. 
One  of  these  went  down  the  Rio  Grande  for  several  miles  before  it  turned  S. 
from  that  river,  taking  this  roundabout  way  to  avoid  Los  Medanos  (the  Sand 
Hills,  of  which  more  presently).  The  other,  which  Pike  took,  went  directly 
S. ,  approximately  by  the  way  the  railroad  goes  now.  To  the  right  is  a  range 
of  mountains  ;  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  recedes  to  the  left  ;  the  way  is 
over  a  sandy,  shrubby  plain,  in  some  places  so  strewn  with  a  kind  of  white  lime- 
stone as  to  have  given  the  name  Tierra  Blanca.  Camp  is  at  the  place  which 
Pike  calls  by  the  extraordinary  term  of  "  Ogo  mall  a  Ukap  "  and  charts  .as  "  Ojo 
Malalka."  Both  these  terms  are  otherwise  rendered  Ojo  de  Malayuque  and 
Sam.ilayuca  ;  and  all  these,  with  others  I  could  cite,  are  forms  of  the  name  of 
the  same  spring  or  pool  which  was  a  usual  first  camp  out  from  El  Paso.  It  was 
in  most  seasons  a  necessary  halt,  on  account  of  water  in  this  long  arid  stretch, 
.as  well  as  a  desirable  one  to  make  before  encountering  the  Sand  Hills.  Pike 
charts  two  other  bodies  of  water,  off  the  road  to  the  right  or  W. ,  by  the  names 
of  "  Lago  de  la  Condelaria  "  and  "  Lac  de  Susnia"  ;  there  are  several  such,  in 
fact,  known  as  Palomas,  Guzman,  Durazno,  Santa  Maria,  etc.  Guzman  is  the 
same  word  .as  Pike's  "  Susma,"  and  a  personal  name  very  well  known  indeed  in 
Mexican  history  ;  but  whether  the  same  lake  is  another  question.  Candel.aria  is 
the  ]ircsent  name  of  a  station  on  the  railroad  below  Los  Medanos. 

'  Pike  gives  us  nothing  from  Samalayuca  to  Carrizal,  and  we  must  fill  the 
lacuna  from  other  sources  of  information.  The  way  grows  graduiilly  hillier  and 
sandier,  till  it  becomes  all  hills  and  sands.  These  are  Los  Medanos,  dreaded 
for  the  difficulty  of  hauling  loaded  wagons  through  them,  though  not  so  bad  on 
horseback  or  with  pack-mules.  Gregg  describes  the  entourage,  Comm.  Pra. ,  II. 
1844,  p.  79,  as  "  a  stupendous  ledge  of  sand-hills,  across  which  the  road  passes 
for  about  six  miles.  As  teams  are  never  able  to  haul  the  loaded  wagons  over 
this  region  of  loose  sand,  we  engaged  an  aUijo  of  mules  at  El  Paso,  upon  which 
to  convey  our  goods  across.  These  Medanos  consist  of  huge  hillocks  and  ridges 
of  pure  sand,  in  many  places  without  a  vestige  of  vegetation.  Through  the 
lowest  gaps  between  the  hills  the  road  winds  its  way."  This  description  calls 
to  mind  the  Medano  or  Sand  Hill  Pass  :  see  note  ",  p.  49:.  Wislizenus  is  even 
more  vivid,  Mem.  p.  44  :  "  Having  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  sand  hills,  we 
commenced  travelling  very  slow.  There  was  nothing  around  us  but  the  deepest 
and  purest  sand,  and  the  animals  could  only  get  along  in  the  slowest  walk,  and 
by  resting  at  short  intervals.  At  last  my  animals  were  exhausted  ;  they  would 
move  no  more,  and  we  had  not  yet  reached  half  of  our  w.ay.  In  this  dilemma 
I  put  my  own  riding-horse  to  the  wagon.  Mr.  Jacquez  lent  me  some  additional 
mules,  and  forward  we  moved  again.  In  the  meanwhile  dark  night  had  conic 
on,  illuminated  only  by  lightning,  that  showed  us  for  a  while  the  most  appalling 


CARRIZAL— RIO   CARMEN.  65 1 

commanded  six  or  seven  years  here.  When  we  arrived  at 
fort,  the  commandant,  Don  Pedro  Rues  Saramende,  received 
Robinson  and  myself  with  a  cold  bow,  and  informed  Mal- 
gares  that  we  could  repair  to  the  public  quarters.     To  this 

night-scene — our  wagons  moving  along  as  slow  and  solemn  as  a  funeral  proces- 
sion ;  ghastly  riders  on  horseback,  wrapped  in  blankets  or  cloaks  ;  some  tired 
travellers  stretched  out  on  the  sand,  others  walking  ahead,  and  tracing  the  road 
with  the  fire  of  their  cigarritos  ;  and  the  deepest  silence,  interrupted  only  by  the 
yelling  exclamations  of  the  drivers,  and  the  rolling  of  distant  thunder.  The 
scene  was  impressive  enough  to  be  remembered  by  me  ;  but  I  made  a  vow  the 
same  night,  that  whenever  I  should  undertake  this  trip  again,  I  would  rather  go 
three  days  around,  than  travel  once  more  over  the  sand  hills  with  a  wagon. 
About  midniglit,  at  last  v;e  reached  the  southern  end  of  the  sand  hills,  and 
encamped  without  water." 

This  bad  place  was  about  6  m.  Beyond  it,  some  15  (?)  m.,  is  a  fine  spring  of 
water  a  few  yards  to  the  left,  called  Ojo  Lucero  or  Venus'  spring.  A  place  on 
the  railroad  in  this  vicinity  is  named  Rancheria.  Further  on  is  seen,  at  some 
distance  to  the  right  of  the  road,  a  square  mound  20  feet  high,  with  a  warm 
spring  on  its  level  top.  Beyond  this,  on  the  left,  is  Laguna  de  Patos,  or 
Duck  1.,  a  considerable  body  of  water,  which  is  the  sink  of  the  Rio  Carmen. 
The  other  road  from  EI  Paso  to  Carrizal  joins  the  main  road  in  this  vicinity. 
San  Jose  is  a  place  on  the  railroad,  opposite  this  lake.  Off  to  the  right,  in  tlie 
mountain  chain  above  mentioned,  rises  a  conspicuous  jjicacho.  Carrizal  is 
a  small  town,  like  most  places  in  Mexico  (pop.  300  or  400  in  1839),  but  for  some 
time  supported  a  presidio  or  garrison  as  a  protection  from  Indians,  and  was  also 
walled  in  ;  but  neither  of  these  defenses  seems  to  have  troubled  the  Apaches 
much.  Turning  to  Pike's  map,  we  find  he  marks  "  Presidio  de  Carracal"  on 
a  branch  of  a  large  "  Rio  de  Carracal,"  which  he  runs  N.  E.  into  the  Rio 
Grande.  But  this  is  the  Carmen  r.  just  said,  which  runs  into  Duck  1.  not  far 
from  where  Pike  makes  it  head,  and  probably  never  reaches  the  Rio  Grande. 
Yet  it  is  liable  to  freshets  and  may  greatly  overflow  its  usual  limits.  Gregg 
struck  one  when  he  passed  this  way  in  1S39  and  describes  it,  /.  c:  "Just  as  we 
passed  Lake  Patos,  we  were  struck  with  .astonishment  at  finding  the  road  ahead 
of  us  literally  overflowed  by  an  immense  body  of  water,  with  a  brisk  current,  as 
if  some  great  river  had  suddenly  been  conjured  into  existence  by  the  aid  of 
supernatural  arts.  A  considerable  time  elapsed  before  we  could  unravel  the 
mystery.  At  last  we  discovered  that  a  freshet  had  lately  occurred  in  the  streams 
that  fed  Lake  Patos  and  caused  it  to  overflow  its  banks,  which  accounted  for 
this  unwelcome  visitation.  We  had  to  flounder  through  the  mud  and  water  for 
several  hours  before  we  succeeded  in  getting  across."  The  spring  which  Pike 
marks  "  Ojo  de  Lotario"  (Lothario)  is  that  above  named  as  Lucifer  or  Venus  ; 
and  the  hill  delineated  close  by  it  is  jirobably  intended  for  the  mound  above 
said.  He  marks  the  road  which  leads  from  Carrizal  to  Sonora  "Camino  a 
Senora." 


652  OJOS   CALIENTES   Y   DE   CALLEJON. 

Malgares  indignantly  replied  that  he  should  accompany  us, 
and  turned  to  go,  when  the  commandant  took  him  by  the 
arm,  made  many  apologies  to  him  and  us,  and  we  at  length 
reluctantly  entered  his  quarters.  Here  for  the  first  time  I 
saw  the  gazettes  of  Mexico,  which  gave  rumors  of  Colonel 
[Aaron]  Burr's  conspiracies,  the  movements  of  our  troops, 
etc.;  but  which  were  stated  in  so  vague  and  undefined 
a  manner  as  only  to  create  our  anxiety  without  throwing 
any  light  on  the  subject. 

Mar.  28th.  Marched  at  half  past  three  o'clock,  and  ar- 
rived at  the  Warm  Springs  [Ojos  Calientes]  at  sundown  ; 
crossed  one  little  fosse  on  the  route.' 

Sunday,  Mar.  2gth.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  con- 
tinued our  route,  with  but  a  short  halt,  until  sundown,  when 
we  encamped  without  water.     Distance  30  miles." 

Mar.  joth.  Marched  before  seven  o'clock ;  the  front 
arrived  at  water  at  eleven  o'clock ;  the  mules,  at  twelve. 
The  spring'  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  to  the  east  of  the 

'Pike's  "  little  fosse  "  is  no  doubt  the  acequia  below  Carrizal.  Ojo  Caliente 
is  present  name  of  a  station  on  the  railroad  between  Carmen  station  and  Las 
Minas  ;  and  the  warm  springs  where  Pike  camps  are  those  at  or  near  Alamo  de 
Pena,  10-12  m.  below  Carrizal,  a  mile  short  of  the  crossing  of  Rio  Carmen. 
Gregg  and  Wislizenus  both  describe  the  springs  in  similar  terms,  as  forming 
a  large  basin  of  clear,  pure,  lukewarm  water  in  porphyritic  rocks,  with  a  sandy 
bottom,  fed  from  various  sources,  and  overrunning  in  a  rivulet  into  the  Carmen. 
"  It  forms,"  says  Gregg,  Com.  Pra.,  II.  p.  80,  "  a  basin  some  30  feet  long  by 
about  half  that  width,  and  just  deep  and  warm  enough  for  a  most  delightful 
bath  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Were  this  siiring  .  .  .  anywhere  within  the 
United  St<ites  it  would  doubtless  soon  be  converted  into  a  place  of  fashionable 
resort."  Wislizenus  determined  a  temperature  of  82°  F.,  the  air  being 
84^°  F.  Hughes  in  Doniphan's  Exp.,  p.  108,  also  describes  the  spring  and 
states  that  it  was  formerly  the  seat  of  a  princely  hacienda,  "  belonging  to  Porus, 
a  Spanish  nabob,"  who  at  one  time  had  on  his  estate  36,000  head  of  stock. 

■*  A  long,  hard  march  over  a  plain  waterless  except  in  rainy  weather,  and 
a  diy  camp  ;  for  though  Pike  is  past  the  place  he  marks  "  Les  Coquillas,"  he 
stops  short  of  the  Ojo  de  Callejon. 

'This  spring  is  found  on  various  m.aps  by  the  names  of  "  Gallejo,"  "Gal- 
lego,"  etc.,  also  applied  to  a  station  on  the  railroad.  Hughes  gives  the  word  as 
"  Guyagas."  I  suppose  the  proper  name  to  be  Ojo  de  Callejon,  which  might 
be  translated  Pass  sjiring — for  the  n>oiintains  on  each  side  of  the  road  here  close 
in  somewhat,  leaving  a  pass  or  pucrUi  between  them.     Olherwisc,  the  word  is 


EL   PESOL — LAGUNA   DE   LAS   ENCINILLAS.  653 

road,  is  a  beautiful  situation.  I  here  saw  the  first  ash  timber 
I  observed  in  the  country.  This  water  is  52  miles  from  the 
Warm  Springs.  Yesterday  and  to-day  saw  cabrie  [antelope, 
Antilocapra  ainericana].  Marched  15  miles  further  and 
encamped  without  wood  or  water ;  passed  two  other  small 
springs  to  the  east  of  the  road. 

Mar.  Jist.  Marched  early  and  arrived  at  an  excellent 
spring  at  ten  o'clock.  The  roads  from  Senora,  Tanos 
[qu:  Yanos?],  Buenaventura,  etc.,  join  about  400  yards 
before   you  arrive   at  this   spring." 

Arrived  at  the  village  of  [hiatus]  '  at   night,  a  large  and 

callejo  or  calhyo,  meaning  pitfall.  This  spring  is  off  to  the  left,  and  sometimes 
discharges  water  enough  to  make  a  rivulet,  which  crosses  the  road.  One  of  the 
otlier  two  springs  which  Pike  speaks  of  passing  is  no  doubt  that  known  as 
Callejito. 

'  The  text  does  not  agree  with  the  map,  for  on  the  latter  a  "  Camino  a 
Senora  "  (road  to  Sonora)  is  brought  into  an  unnamed  "  Ojo"  which  Pike  has 
already  passed.  There  may  have  been  more  than  one  such  road.  In  any 
event,  the  spring  which  Pike  passes  on  the  31st  is  that  marked  on  his  map 
"  Aqas  nueva,"  ;'.  e.,  Aguas  Nuevas  or  Agua  Nueva.  A  station  on  the  railroad 
has  the  latter  name. 

'  The  hiatus  in  the  text  is  to  be  filled  by  El  Penol  or  Hacienda  del  Petrero  ; 
Pike  marks  "  Delpetrero  "  on  his  map,  the  last  place  he  notes  before  reaching 
Chihuahua.  Neither  of  those  names  appears  on  the  late  maps  before  me,  but 
both  were  formerly  employed  for  the  well-known  locality.  Wislizenus  maps 
El  Peiiol,  where  he  camped  Aug.  22d,  1846,  and  speaks  of  the  place  as  a  large 
hacienda,  28  m.  from  his  last  camp  (probably  the  same  as  Pike's  of  the  30th) 
and  about  40  m.  from  Chihuahua.  "  Tlie  creek  of  the  same  name  passing  by 
the  hacienda  is  the  principal  aiUuent  of  the  lake  of  Encinillas  ;  by  the  rains  it 
was  swelled  to  a  torrent,  and  its  roaring  waves,  rushing  over  all  obstacles, 
sounded  in  the  stillness  of  night  like  a  cataract."  Pike  has  not  a  word  of  this  lake, 
though  it  is  usually  a  conspicuous  feature  of  the  great  plain  he  has  just  traversed, 
to  the  W.  of  the  road.  He  maps  it,  quite  sm.all,  by  the  name  of  "  Lago  de 
S".  Martin."  Laguna  de  las  Encinillas,  in  English  Lake  of  Live  Oaks,  is  a 
body  of  water  whose  extent  varies  greatly  according  to  season  and  the  weather, 
being  sometimes  15  or  20  m.  long,  though  usually  less  than  this;  Wislizenus 
estimated  its  length  when  he  saw  it  to  be  15  m.,  with  a  width  of  3  m.  on  an 
average.  Gregg  says,  ioin.  cit.,  p.  81  :  "  This  lake  is  ten  or  twelve  miles  long 
by  two  or  three  in  width,  and  seems  to  have  no  outlet  during  the  greatest 
freshets,  though  fed  by  several  small  constant-flowing  streams  from  the  sur- 
rounding mountains.  The  water  of  this  lake  during  the  dry  season  is  so  strongly 
impregnated  with  nauseous  and  bitter  salts  as  to  render  it  wholly  unpalatable 
to  man  and  beast.     The  most  predominant  of  these  noxious  substances  is  a 


654  THE   APPROACH    TO   THE   CAPITAL. 

elegant  house,  for  the  country ;  here  were  various  labors 
carried  on  by  criminals  in  irons.  We  here  met  with  a 
Catalonian,  who  was  but  a  short  time  from  Spain,  whose 
dialect  was  such  that  he  could  scarcely  be  understood  by 
Malgares,  and  whose  manners  were  much  more  like  those 
of  a  citizen  of  our  Western  frontiers  than  of  a  subject  of 
a  despotic  prince. 

Apr.  ist."     In  the  morning  Malgares  dispatched  a  courier 

species  of  alkali,  known  there  by  the  title  of  tequesqttiie.  It  is  often  seen 
oozing  out  from  the  surface  of  marshy  grounds,  about  the  table  plains  of  all 
Northern  Mexico,  forming  a  grayish  crust,  and  is  extensively  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  soap,  and  sometimes  by  the  bakers  even  for  raising  bread." 

*  As  Pike  has  not  a  word  of  the  route  from  El  Penol  to  Chiliuahua,  we  may 
supply  the  omission  from  other  sources.  The  approach  to  the  capital  presented 
then,  as  it  does  now,  a  number  of  both  artificial  and  natural  features.  There 
were  several  settlements,  as,  for  instance,  Encinillas  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake, 
and  Sauz  beyond  this.  Both  of  these  are  places  to  be  found  marked  by  the 
same  names  now  ;  the  railroad  runs  through  them.  Further  on,  the  ro!id 
crossed  the  Arroyo  Seco,  usually  a  dry  gulch,  as  its  name  says,  but  sometimes 
a  creek  not  easily  crossed,  owing  to  depth  of  water.  It  flows  eastward  to  fall 
into  the  Sacramento  a  few  miles  below.  About  3  m.  beyond  this  arroyo  is  the 
valley  of  the  Sacramento,  memorable  since  the  battle  which  was  won  by  the 
Americans  under  Colonel  Doniphan  on  Sunday  the  2Sth  of  February,  1S47.  Says 
Wislizenus,  Mem.  p.  47:  "The  mountains  above  the  Sacramento  approach 
each  other  from  the  east  and  west,  and  narrow  the  intermediate  plain  to  the 
width  of  about  six  miles ;  and  on  the  Sacramento  itself,  where  new  spurs  of 
mountains  project,  to  about  3  miles.  The  road  from  the  Arroyo  Seco  to  the 
Sacramento  leads  at  first  over  a  high  plain  ;  but  as  soon  as  the  Sacramento 
comes  in  sight,  it  descends  abruptly  to  its  valley  and  to  the  left  bank  of  the 
creek.  Near  where  the  road  begins  to  descend,  a  ravine,  with  an  opposite 
long  hill,  runs  to  the  left  or  east  of  it,  and  a  level  plain  spreads  out  to  the  right 
or  west  of  it.  On  the  hill  towards  the  east  was  a  continuous  line  of  batteries 
and  intrenchments,  and  the  principal  force  of  the  Mexican  aniiy  was  there  col- 
lected. On  the  opposite  plain  from  the  west,  the  American  troops,  who  had 
above  the  Arroyo  Seco  already  turned  to  the  right  to  gain  a  more  favorable 
position,  advanced  in  open  field  against  their  entrenched  and  far  more  numerous 
enemies.  How  the  American  artillery  with  the  first  opening  of  their  fire  struck 
terror  into  the  Mexican  ranks  ;  how  the  brave  Missourians  then,  on  horseback 
and  on  foot,  acted  by  one  impulse,  rushed  through  the  ravine  up  to  the  cannon's 
mouth,  and,  overthrowing  and  killing  everything  before  them,  took  one  battery 
after  the  other,  till  the  whole  line  of  entrenchments  was  in  their  possession  and 
the  enemy  put  to  comjilcte  llight  ;  how  they  crossed  from  here  to  the  Sacramento 
and  stormed  on  its  right  bank  the  last  fortified  position,  on  a  steep  hill,  till  not 


CITY   OF  CHIHUAHUA.  655 

with  a  letter  to  the  Commandant-general  Salcedo,  to  inform 
him  of  our  approach,  and  also  one  to  his  father-in-law. 

Apr.  2(1.  When  we  arrived  at  Chihuahua,  we  pursued 
our  course  through  the  town  to  the  house  of  the  general. 
I  was  much  astonished  to  see  with  what  anxiety  Malgares 
anticipated  the  meeting  with  his  military  chief.  Having 
been  on  the  most  arduous  and  enterprising  expedition  ever 
undertaken  by  any  of  his  Majesty's  ofificers  from  these 
provinces,  and  having  executed  it  with  equal  spirit  and 
judgment,  yet  was  he  fearful  of  his  [Salcedo's]  meeting  him 
with  an  eye  of  displeasure.  He  appeared  to  be  much  more 
agitated  than  ourselves,  although  we  may  be  supposed  to 
have  also  had  our  sensations,  as  on  the  will  of  this  man 
depended  our  future  destiny,  at  least  until  our  country 
could  interfere  in  our  behalf.  On  our  arrival  at  the  general's, 
we  were  halted  in  the  hall  of  the  guard  until  word  was  sent 
to  the  general  of  our  arrival,  when  Malgares  was  first  intro- 
duced. He  remained  some  time,  during  which  a  French- 
man came  up  and  endeavored  to  enter  into  conversation 
with  us,  but  was  soon  frowned  into  silence,  as  we  conceived 
he  was  only  some  authorized  spy.     Malgares  at  last  came 

a  Mexican  was  left  to  oppose  them,  and  all  their  cannon,  ammunition,  and 
trains  were  abandoned  to  the  victors — these  are  facts  well  known  in  the  history 
of  that  camp.iign,  and  will  immortalize  the  brave  volunteers  of  Missouri." 
A  full  account  of  the  battle  is  given  by  the  historian  of  Doniphan's  Expedition, 
p.  no  seq.,  with  a  plan  of  the  ground.  The  U.  S.  forces  were  924  all  told, 
with  6  pieces  of  artillery  ;  their  loss  was  I  killed  and  11  wounded,  3  mortally. 
The  Americans  had  140  additional  men,  teamsters  and  others,  raising  the  total 
to  1,164.  Of  the  924,  117  were  of  the  artillery,  93  were  of  an  escort,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  1st  Regt.  Missouri  mounted  volunteers.  The  Mexicans  h-td 
4,224  men,  and  16  pieces  of  artillery  ;  their  loss  was  320  killed,  560  wounded, 
72  prisoners.  Hughes'  article  cited  includes  Colonel  Doniphan's  official  report. 
The  Sacramento  is  the  stream  upon  two  small  tributaries  of  which  Chihuahua 
is  situated,  at  their  junction,  about  20  m.  from  the  scene  described.  The  river 
is  usually  fordable.  The  road  leads  over  a  level  plain,  which  widens  somewhat 
southward,  down  the  vjiUey  of  the  river,  with  steep,  rough  mountains  on  either 
hand.  The  capital  first  comes  in  sight  about  10  m.  off,  in  a  sort  of  pocket 
where  the  mountains  come  together  from  each  side,  as  if  to  close  up  the  valley 
below  ;  but  there  is  an  outlet  to  the  E.  through  which  the  Sacramento  r.  runs 
to  join  the  Rio  Conchos. 


656  GENERAL   SALCEDO — LIEUTENANT  WALKER. 

out  and  asked  me  to  walk  in.  I  found  the  general  sitting  at 
his  desk;  he  was  a  middle-sized  man,  apparently  about  55 
years  of  age,  with  a  stem  countenance  ;  but  he  received  me 
graciously  and  beckoned  to  a  seat. 

He  then  observed,  "You  have  given  us  and  yourself  a 
great  deal  of  trouble." 

Captain  Pike.  On  my  part  entirely  unsought,  and  on 
that  of  the  Spanish  government  voluntary. 

General  Salecdo.     Where  are  your  papers  ? 

Captain  Pike.     Under  charge  of  Lieutenant  Malgares. 

Malgares  was  then  ordered  to  have  my  small  trunk 
brought  in,  which  being  done,  a  Lieutenant  Walker  came  in, 
who  is  a  native  of  New  Orleans,  his  father  an  Englishman,  his 
mother  a  French  woman,  and  who  spoke  both  those  lan- 
guages equally  well,  also  the  Spanish.  He  was  a  lieutenant  of 
dragoons  in  the  Spanish  service,  and  master  of  the  military 
school  at  Chihuahua.  This  same  young  gentleman  was  em- 
ployed by  Mr.  Andrew  Ellicott,"  as  a  deputy  surveyor  on  the 

'  B.  Bucks  Co.,  Pa.,  Jan.  24th,  1754,  of  Quaker  parentage  (his  father  was  one  o£ 
those  who  had  land  on  the  Patapsco,  and  founded  ElUcott's  Mills,  now  EUicott 
City,  near  Baltimore,  Md.,  1774) ;  became  a  distinguished  astronomer,  surveyor, 
and  civil  engineer,  and  died  professor  of  mathematics  at  West  Point,  N.  Y.,  Aug. 
29th.  1820.  He  did  an  immense  amount  of  surveying  and  boundary-running, 
mostly  of  important  and  official  public  character,  in  New  York,  Pennsylvania, 
Maryland,  Virginia,  and  elsewhere  ;  in  1790,  was  directed  by  Washington 
to  lay  out  the  city  of  th.it  name  ;  in  1792  became  surveyor-general  of  the  U.  S.; 
and  in  1796  was  appointed  by  Washington  U.  S.  Commissioner  under  the  treaty 
of  San  Lorenzo  el  Real,  to  run  the  southern  boundary  between  the  U.  S.  and 
New  Spain.  This  is  the  work  to  which  Pike  alludes,  though  he  is  a  little  out  in 
his  dates,  as  witness  the  following  title  :  The  Journal  of  Andrew  EUicott,  late 
Commissioner  on  behalf  of  the  United  States  during  part  of  the  year  1796,  the 
years  1797,  1798,  1799,  and  part  of  the  year  1800;  for  determining  the  bound- 
ary between  the  United  States  and  the  possessions  of  his  Catholic  Majesty  in 
America,  containing,  .  .  .  etc.,  Philada.,  Budd  and  Bartram,  1803,  I  vol.  4to, 
pp.  i-viii,  1-299,  "'i'h  6  maps,  and  Appendix,  pp.  1-151,  i  leaf  errata,  and  8 
more  maps.  EUicott  wrote  tliis  book,  excepting  the  Appendix,  at  Lancaster, 
Pa.,  June  to  Nov.,  1802  ;  .md  while  he  was  there  in  1803  he  co.ached  Captain 
Meriwether  Lewis  in  the  use  of  astronomical  instruments  :  see  L.  and  C,  ed. 
1893,  p.  xxii  and  p.  xxiv.  Going  down  the  Ohio  to  the  scene  of  his  official  func- 
tions, Dec.  17th,  1796,  EUicott  says,  p.  21  :  "I  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Tenne- 
sce,  and   in    two  hours   afterwards   arrived    at    Fort  Massac,  and  was   politely 


SURVEYOR-GENERAL  ANDREW    ELLICOTT.  657 

Florida  line  between  the  United  States  and  Spain,  in  the 
years  1797  and  '98.  General  Salcedo  then  desired  him  to 
assist  me  in  taking  out  my  papers,  and  requested  me  to  ex- 
plain the  nature  of  each  ;  such  as  he  conceived  were  relevant 
to  the  expedition  he  caused  to  be  laid  on  one  side,  and  those 

received  by  the  commandant  Captain  Pike,"  etc.  This  was  Zebulon  Pike, 
father  of  Zebulon  M. :  see  the  Memoir,  anUa.  The  fort  stood  on  the  N.  (right) 
bank,  about  lat.  37°  14'  ;  early  F.  history  obscure  and  not  all  of  it  authentic ; 
site  supposed  to  have  been  first  occupied  ca.  1711  :  see  Beck's  Gaz.,  1823,  p. 
1 14,  and  John  Reynolds'  Own  Times,  2d.  ed.  p.  16,  with  description  of  the  place 
as  it  was  in  1855.  In  descending  the  Ohio  in  1758  the  F.  officer  Aubry  halted 
on  the  N.  bank,  at  the  old  site,  called  36  m.  above  the  mouth  of  the  river,  to 
build  a  new  post,  which  was  garrisoned  with  100  men  and  called  Fort  Marsiac 
after  the  first  commandant.  Thus  the  name  is  not  Massac,  as  usually  said,  and 
still  less  is  it  derived  from  the  apocryphal  massacre  which  various  historians 
have  exploited.  This  fort  was  the  last  establishment  of  the  F.  on  the  Ohio, 
being  kept  up  till  they  evacuated  the  country  under  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  1763  ; 
it  was  a  U.  S.  post  till  after  the  war  of  1812-14,  and  during  our  occupancy 
became  known  as  the  old  Cherokee  fort.  Pike  alludes  in  the  present  work  to  a 
certain  Nolan,  who  is  easy  to  identify,  but  not  to  find  out  much  about.  Ellicott 
met  him  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  in  Jan.,  1797  :  "Mr.  Philip  Nolan,  so  well 
known  for  his  athletic  exertions,  and  dexterity  in  taking  wild  horses,  stopped  at 
our  camp  on  his  way  from  New  Madrid  to  fort  Massac,"  says  this  author,  p.  29, 
with  a  footnote  stating  that  Nolan  "  was  killed  by  the  Spaniards  in  the  spring 
of  1801,"  after  taking  a  very  active  part  in  various  disturbances  in  that  quarter. 
Ellicott  passed  down  the  Miss.  r. ,  past  the  Chickasaw  bluffs  (L.  andC,  ed,  1893, 
p.  xl.  and  p.  lii),  and  at  Natchez  encountered  a  bigger  bluff  in  the  shape  of  an 
individual  who  described  himself  in  his  pronunciamentos  as  his  Excellency 
Francis  Lewis  Hector,  Baron  de  Carondelet,  Knight  of  the  Order  of  Malta, 
Major  General  of  his  Armies,  Commandant  General  of  Louisiana  and  West 
Florida,  Inspector  of  the  Troops,  Militia,  etc.,  etc.,  etc.  (though  what  his 
triplicate  etceteras  were  is  not  given  to  ordinary  mortals  to  know).  This  cli- 
macteric functionary  was  supported  by  a  lesser  luminary  who  filled  the  role  of 
Don  Manuel  Gayoso  de  Lemas,  Brigadier  of  the  Royal  Armies,  Governor  of 
Natchez  and  its  dependencies,  with  three-ply  etceteras  as  before  (though  he  was 
dead  before  Aug.,  1799).  These  two  formidable  obstructions  to  navigation,  as 
an  engineer  might  say,  were  not  overcome  by  our  surveyor-general  for  nearly  a 
year,  during  which  period  they  kept  him  busy  with  Spanish  diplomacy.  As  I 
read  the  correspondence  it  seems  to  have  largely  consisted  in  saying  they  hoped 
God  would  bless  and  keep  him  forever,  when  they  really  hoped  the  devil  would 
fly  away  with  him  before  breakfast ;  and  he  had  to  silence  both  the  caterAvaul- 
ing  choristers  before  he  could  proceed  with  his  scientific  work.  This  he  was 
free  to  do  on  the  Sjianish  evacuation  of  the  forts  at  Natchez  and  Nogales  (Wal- 
nut Hills)  in  Jan.,  1798. 


658  SALCEDO'S   SEIZURE   OF   PIKE'S   PAPERS. 

wliich  were  not  of  a  public  nature  on  the  other  ;  the  whole 
either  passing  through  the  hands  of  the  general  or  of 
Walker,  except  a  few  letters  from  my  lady.  On  my  taking 
these  up,  and  saying  they  were  letters  from  a  lady,  the  gen- 
eral gave  a  proof  that,  if  the  ancient  Spanish  bravery  had 
degenerated  in  the  nation  generally,  their  gallantry  still  ex- 
isted, by  bowing  ;  and  I  put  them  in  my  pocket.  He  tlien 
informed  me  that  he  would  examine  the  papers,  but  that  in 
the  meanwhile  he  wished  me  to  make  out  and  present  to  him 
a  short  sketch  of  my  voyage,"  which  might  probably  be  sat- 
isfactory. This  I  would  have  positively  refused,  had  I  had 
an  idea  that  it  was  his  determination  to  keep  the  papers, 
which  I  could  not  at  that  time  conceive,  from  the  urbanity 
and  satisfaction  which  he  appeared  to  exhibit  on  the  event 
of  our  interview.  He  then  told  me  that  I  would  take  up  my 
quarters  with  Walker,  in  order,  as  he  said,  to  be  better 
accommodated  by  having  a  person  with  me  who  spoke  the 
English  language  ;  but  the  object,  as  I  suspected,  was  for 
him  to  be  a  spy  on  our  actions  and  on  those  who  visited  us. 

Robinson  all  this  time  had  been  standing  in  the  guard- 
room, boiling  with  indignation  at  being  so  long  detained 
there,  subject  to  the  observations  of  the  soldiery  and  gap- 
ing curiosity  of  the  vulgar.  He  was  now  introduced,  by 
some  mistake  of  one  of  the  aides-de-camp.  He  appeared 
and  made  a  slight  bow  to  the  general,  who  demanded  of 
Malgares  who  he  [Robinson]  was.  He  replied,  "  A  doctor 
who  accompanied  the  expedition."  "  Let  him  retire,"  said 
the  governor ;  and  he  went  out. 

The  general  then  invited  me  to  return  and  dine  with  him, 
and  we  went  to  the  quarters  of  Walker,  where  we  received 
several  different  invitations  to  take  quarters  at  houses  where 
we  might  be  better  accommodated  ;  but,  understanding  that 
the  general  had  designated  our  quarters,  we  were  silent. 

We  returned  to  dine  at  the  palace,  where  we  met  Mal- 
gares, who,  besides  ourselves,  was  the  only  guest.     He  had 

'»  This  paper  was  given  in  full  in  the  App.  to  Pt.  3,  of  which  it  originally 
formed  Uoc.  No.  13,  pp.  73-77,  and  will  be  found  beyond. 


DIGNITARIES,   FUNCTIONARIES,   AND   FAIR   ONES.       659 

at  the  tabic  the  treasurer,  Truxillio  [qu.:  Trujillo?],  and  a 
priest  called  Father  Rocus. 

Apr.  jd.  Employed  in  giving  a  sketch  of  our  voyage  for 
the  general  and  commandant  of  those  provinces.  Intro- 
duced to  Don  Bernardo  Villamil ;  Don  Alberto  Mayner, 
lieutenant-colonel,  and  father-in-law  to  Malgares ;  and  Don 
Manuel  Zuloaga,  a  member  of  the  secretary's  office,  to 
whom  I  am  under  obligations  of  gratitude,  and  shall  remem- 
ber with  esteem.     Visited  his  house  in  the  evening. 

Apr.  ph.  Visited  the  hospital,  where  were  two  officers, 
who  were  fine-looking  men,  and  I  was  informed  had  been 
the  gayest  young  men  of  the  province.  They  were  mold- 
ering  away  by  disease,  and  there  was  not  a  physician  in  his 
Majesty's  hospitals  who  was  able  to  cure  them  ;  but  after 
repeated  attempts,  all  had  given  them  up  to  perish.  This 
shows  the  deplorable  state  of  medical  science  in  the  prov- 
inces. I  endeavored  to  get  Robinson  to  undertake  the 
cure  of  these  poor  fellows,  but  the  jealousy  and  envy  of 
the  Spanish  doctors  made  it  impracticable. 

Sunday,  Apr.  sth.  Visited  by  Lieutenant  Malgares,  with 
a  very  polite  message  from  his  Excellency,  delivered  in  the 
most  impressive  terms,  with  offers  of  assistance,  money,  etc., 
for  which  I  returned  my  respectful  thanks  to  the  gen- 
eral. Accompanied  Malgares  to  the  public  walk,  where  we 
found  the  secretary,  Captain  Villamil,  Zuloaga,  and  other 
officers  of  distinction.  We  here  likewise  met  the  wife  of  my 
friend  Malgares,  to  whom  he  introduced  us.  She  was,  like 
all  the  other  ladies  of  New  Spain,  a  little  en  bon  point,  but 
possessed  the  national  beauty  of  eye  in  a  superior  degree. 
There  was  a  large  collection  of  ladies,  amongst  whom  were 
two  of  the  most  celebrated  in  the  capital — Scfiora  Maria 
Con.  Caberairi,  and  Scfiora  Margcuritc  Vallois,  the  only  two 
ladies  who  had  spirit  sufficient,  and  their  husbands  generos- 
ity enough,  to  allow  them  to  think  themselves  rational 
beings,  to  be  treated  on  an  equality,  to  receive  the  visits  of 
tlicir  friends,  and  give  way  to  the  hospitality  of  their  dispo- 
sitions without  restraint.     They  were  consequently  the  envy 


66o  SOCIAL  AMENITIES — DAVID   FERO. 

of  other  ladies,  and  the  subject  of  scandal  to  prudes ;  their 
houses  were  the  rendezvous  of  all  the  fashionable  male  so- 
ciety ;  and  every  man  who  was  conspicuous  for  science,  arts, 
or  arms,  was  sure  to  meet  a  welcome.  We,  as  unfortunate 
strangers,  were  consequently  not  forgotten.  I  returned  with 
Malgares  to  the  house  of  his  father-in-law,  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Mayner,  who  was  originally  from  Cadiz,  a  man  of 
good  information. 

Apr.  6th.  Dined  with  the  general.  Writing,  etc.  In  the 
evening  visited  Malgares  and  the  secretary.  After  dinner 
wine  was  set  on  the  table,  and  we  were  entertained  with 
songs  in  the  French,  Italian,  Spanish,  and  English  lan- 
guages. Accustomed  as  I  was  to  sitting  some  time  after 
dinner  I  forgot  their  siesta,  or  repose  after  dinner,  until 
Walker  suggested  the  thing  to  me,  when  we  retired. 

Apr.  Jth.  Dined  at  Don  Antonio  Caberairi's,  [qu.:  Ca- 
brera's ?]  in  company  with  Villamil,  Zuloaga,  Walker,  etc. 
Sent  in  the  sketch  of  my  voyage  to  the  general.  Spent  the 
evening  at  Colonel  Mayner's  with  Malgares. 

Apr.  Sth.  Visited  the  treasurer,  who  showed  me  the 
double-barreled  gun  given  by  Governor  [Wm.  C.  C]  Clai- 
borne, and  another  formerly  the  property  of  [Captain  Philip] 
Nolan  [sec  note  ",  p.  657,  and  legend  on  Pike's  map]. 

Apr.  gth.  In  the  evening  I  was  informed  that  David 
Ferro"  was  in  town  and  wished  to  speak  to  me.  This  man 
had  formerly  been  my  father's  ensign,  and  was  taken  with 
Nolan's  party  at  the  time  the  latter  was  killed.  He  pos- 
sessed a  brave  soul,  and  had  withstood  every  oppression, 
since  being  made  prisoner,  with  astonishing  fortitude. 
Although  his  leaving  the  place  of  his  confinement,  the  vil- 
lage of  St.  Jeronimic  [San  Jcronimo],  without  the  knowledge 
of  the  general,  was  in  some  measure  clandestine,  yet  a  coun- 
tryman, an  acquaintance,  and  formerly  a  brother  soldier,  in 

"  David  Fero,  Jr.,  of  New  York,  w-is  an  ensign  of  the  3d  sub-Legion  from 
May  I2lh,  1794,  to  Nov.  1st,  1796,  when  he  was  assigned  to  the  3d  Infantry,  in 
which  he  became  a  lieutenant  Oct.  3d,  1798,  and  from  which  he  resigned  July 
22d,  1799. 


NOTHING   EXTRAORDINARY.  66l 

a  Strange  land,  in  distress,  had  ventured  much  to  see  me — • 
could  I  deny  him  the  interview  from  any  motives  of  deli- 
cacy ?  No  ;  forbid  it,  humanity  !  forbid  it,  every  sentiment 
of  my  soul ! 

Our  meeting  was  affecting,  tears  standing  in  his  eyes.  He 
informed  me  of  the  particulars  of  their  being  taken,  and 
many  other  circumstances  since  they  had  been  in  the 
country.  I  promised  to  do  all  I  could  for  him  consistently 
with  my  character  and  honor,  and  their  having  entered  the 
country  without  the  authority  of  the  United  States.  As  he 
was  obliged  to  leave  town  before  day,  he  called  on  me  at  my 
quarters,  when  I  bid  him  adieu,  and  gave  him  what  my 
purse  afforded,  not  what  my  heart  dictated. 

Apr.  loth.  In  the  evening  at  Colonel  Maynor's.  Cap- 
tain Rodiriques  [Rodriguez]  arrived  from  the  province  of 
Texas,  where  he  had  been  under  arrest  one  year,  for  going 
to  Natchitoches  with  the  Marquis  Cassa  Calvo  [Marques  de 
Casa  Calva]. 

Apr.  nth.  Rode  out  in  the  coach  with  Malgares ;  was 
hospitably  entertained  at  the  house  of  one  of  the  Vallois, 
where  we  drank  London  porter.     Visited  Secretary  Villamil. 

Sunday,  Apr.  12th.  Dined  with  the  doctor,  at  Don  An- 
tonio Caberaric's,  with  our  usual  guests.  In  the  evening  at 
the  public  walks. 

Apr.  13th.     Nothing  extraordinary. 

Apr.  T^th.  Spent  the  forenoon  in  writing  ;  the  afternoon 
at  Don  Antonio  Caberarie's. 

Apr.  15th.  Spent  the  evening  at  Colonel  Maynor's  [qu.: 
Mayron's?]  with  our  friend  Malgares.  Wrote  a  letter  to 
Governor  Salcedo  on  the  subject  of  my  papers.'" 

Apr.  i6th.  Spent  the  evening  at  the  secretary's,  Don 
Villamil's. 

Apr.  lyth.  Sent  my  letter  to  his  Excellency.  Spent  the 
evening  with  my  friend  Malgares. 

"  This  appe.il  and  remonstrance  was  given  in  the  App.  to  Pt.  3,  where  it 
originally  formed  Doc.  No.  14,  pp.  78,  79,  dated  Apr.  14th  ;  it  will  be  found 
beyond. 


662  burling's  mysterious  mission. 

Apr.  i8th.  Spent  the  evening  at  Caberarie's,  etc.  Wrote 
to  Governor  Allencaster. 

Sitnday,  Apr.  igth.     In  the  evening  at  a  fandango. 

Apr.  20th.  We  this  day  learned  that  an  American  officer 
had  gone  on  to  the  city  of  Mexico.  This  was  an  enigma  to 
us  inexplicable,  as  we  conceived  that  the  jealousy  of  the 
Spanish  government  would  have  prevented  any  foreign 
officer  from  penetrating  the  country ;  and  why  the  United 
States  could  send  an  authorized  agent  to  the  viceroyalty, 
when  the  Spanish  government  had  at  the  seat  of  our  gov- 
ernment a  charg6  d'affaires,  served  but  to  darken  the  con- 
jectures. The  person  alluded  to  was  Mr.  Burling,  a  citizen 
of  Mississippi  Territory,  whose  mission  is  now  well  known 
to  the  government.  We  likewise  received  an  account  of  a 
commercial  treaty  having  been  entered  into  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States,  which  by  the  Dons  was  only 
considered  as  the  preliminary  step  to  an  alliance  offensive 
and  defensive  between  the  two  nations. 

Apr.  2ist.  Presented  the  commanding  general  with  a 
letter  for  General  Wilkinson,  which  he  promised  to  have 
forwarded  to  the  governor  of  Texas. 

Apr.  22d.  Spent  the  day  in  reading  and  studying  Span- 
ish ;  the  evening  at  Captain  Villamil's. 

Apr.  2jd.  Dined  at  Don  Pedro  Vallois' ;  spent  the  even- 
ing with  Colonel  Maynor ;  bade  him  adieu,  as  he  was  to 
march  the  next  day.  In  the  evening  received  a  letter  from 
the  commandant-general,  informing  me  my  papers  were  to  be 
detained,  giving  a  certificate  of  their  numbers,  contents,  etc." 

Apr.  2.^th.  Spent  the  evening  at  Zuloaga's  with  his  rela- 
tions. About  sundown  an  officer  of  the  government  called 
upon  me,  and  told  me  that  the  government  had  been 
informed  that,  in  conversations  in  all  societies,  Robinson 
and  myself  had  held  forth  political  maxims  and  principles 
which,  if  just,  I  must  be  conscious  if  generally  disseminated 
would  in  a  very  few  years  be  the  occasion  of  a  revolt   of 

"These  papers,  originally  forming  Docs.  Nos.  15  and  16,  were  given  in  the 
App.  to  Pt.  3,  pp.  70-82,  ami  will  be  found  beyond. 


pike's  free  speech  on  free  speech.  663 

those  kingdoms;  that  those  impressions  had  taken  such 
effect  that  it  was  no  uncommon  thing,  in  the  circles  in 
which  he  associated,  to  hear  the  comparative  principles  of 
a  republican  and  a  monarchical  government  discussed,  and 
even  the  allegiance  due,  in  case  of  certain  events,  to  the 
court  called  in  question  ;  that  various  characters  of  consid- 
eration had  indulged  themselves  in  those  conversations,  all 
of  whom  were  noted  and  would  be  taken  care  of ;  but  that, 
as  respected  myself  and  companion,  it  was  the  desire  of  his 
Excellency  that  while  in  the  dominions  of  Spain  we  would 
not  hold  forth  any  conversations  whatsoever,  either  on  the 
subject  of  religion  or  politics. 

I  replied  that  it  was  true  I  had  held  various  and  free 
conversations  on  the  subjects  complained  of,  but  only  with 
men  high  in  ofHce,  who  might  be  supposed  to  be  firmly 
attached  to  the  king,  and  partial  to  the  government  of  their 
country  ;  that  I  had  never  gone  among  the  poor  and  illit- 
erate, preaching  up  republicanism  or  a  free  government ; 
that  as  to  the  catholic  religion,  I  had  only  combated  some 
of  what  I  conceived  to  be  its  illiberal  dogmas  ;  that  I  had 
spoken  of  it  in  all  instances  as  a  respectable  branch  of  the 
Christian  religion  which,  as  well  as  all  others,  was  tolerated 
in  the  United  States;  and  that,  had  I  come  to  that  king- 
dom in  a  diplomatic  character,  delicacy  toward  the  govern- 
ment would  have  sealed  my  lips ;  or  had  I  been  a  prisoner 
of  war,  personal  safety  might  have  had  the  same  effect ; 
but,  being  there  in  the  capacity  which  I  was,  not  volun- 
tarily, but  by  coercion  of  the  Spanish  government,  which  at 
the  same  time  had  officially  notified  me  that  they  did  not 
consider  me  under  any  restraint  whatever  ;  therefore,  when 
called  on,  I  should  always  give  my  opinions  freely,  either  as 
to  politics  or  religion  ;  but  at  the  same  time  with  urbanity, 
and  a  proper  respect  to  the  legitimate  authorities  of  the 
country  where  I  was. 

He  replied,  ''  Well,  you  may  then  rest  assured  your  con- 
duct will  be  represented  in  no  very  favorable  point  of  view 
to  your  government." 


664  SALCEDO   SETTLES   PIKE'S   PARTY. 

I  replied, "  To  my  government  I  am  certainly  responsible, 
and  to  no  other." 

He  then  left  me.  I  immediately  waited  on  some  of  my 
friends  and  notified  them  of  the  threat,  at  which  they  ap- 
peared much  alarmed.  We  went  immediately  to  consult 
[Malgares],  who,  to  great  attachment  to  his  friends,  joined 
the  most  incorruptible  loyalty  and  the  confidence  of  the 
government.  Our  consultation  ended  in  a  determination 
only  to  be  silent  and  watch  events. 

We  suspected  [Walker]  to  be  the  informant,  but  whether 
just  in  our  suspicion  or  not,  I  will  not  pretend  to  deter- 
mine ;  for  Robinson  and  myself  frequently  used  to  hold 
conversations  in  his  presence,  purposely  to  have  them  com- 
municated ;  but  he  at  last  discovered  our  intentions,  and 
told  us  that  if  we  calculated  on  making  him  a  carrier  of 
news,  we  were  mistaken  ;  that  he  despised  it. 

Apr.  2£th.  At  eleven  o'clock  I  called  on  his  Excellency, 
but  was  informed  that  he  was  engaged.  About  three 
o'clock  I  received  a  message  from  him  by  Lieutenant 
Walker,  informing  me  that  he  was  surprised  I  had  not 
returned,  and  to  call  without  ceremony  in  the  evening  ; 
which  I  did,  and  presented  him  with  a  letter."  He  then 
also  candidly  informed  me  my  party  would  not  join  me  in 
the  territory  of  the  king  of  Spain,  but  that  they  should  be 
attended  to  punctually,  and  forwarded  on  immediately  after 
me  ;  and  requested  that  I  should  give  orders  to  my  sergeant 
to  deliver  up  all  his  ammunition,  and  dispose  in  some 
manner  of  the  horses  of  which  he  had  charge.  I  stated 
in  reply  that,  with  respect  to  the  ammunition,  I  would 
give  orders  to  my  sergeant  to  deliver,  if  demanded,  all  they 
possessed,  more  than  was  necessary  to  fill  their  horns ;  but 
that  as  to  the  horses,  I  considered  their  loss  was  a  charge 
which  must  be  adjusted  between  the  two  governments,  and 
therefore  should  not  give  any  directions  respecting  them, 
except  as  to  bringing  them  on  as  far  and  as  long  as  they 

'■'  This  letter  appeared  in  the  App.  to  Part.  3,  where  it  orit;in.iUy  fortneil 
Doc.  No.  17,  pp.  S2,  83,  dated  Apr.  4th,  and  will  be  found  beyond. 


WALKER   PRESENTS  BOARD  BILLS.  665 

were  able  to  travel.  He  then  gave  me  an  invitation  to 
dine  with  him  on  the  morrow. 

Sunday,  Apr.  26th.  Dined  at  the  general's.  In  the 
evening  went  to  Malgares',  Zuloaga's,  and  others'.  Wrote 
to  my  sergeant  and  Fero  ;  to  the  latter  of  whom  I  sent  $10, 
and  to  the  other  $161.84,  to  purchase  clothes  for  the  party. 
Wc  had  been  for  some  time  suspicious  that  the  doctor  was 
to  be  detained  ;  but  this  evening  he  likewise  obtained  per- 
mission to  pursue  his  journey  with  me,  which  diffused 
general  joy  through  all  the  party. 

Apr.  2jth.  Spent  the  day  in  making  arrangements  for 
our  departure,  writing  to  the  sergeant,  etc. 

I  will  here  mention  some  few  anecdotes  relative  to 
[Walker],  with  whom  we  boarded  during  our  stay  in 
Chihuahua.  When  we  came  to  the  city  we  went  to  his 
quarters,  by  order  of  the  general,  and  considered  ourselves 
as  guests,  having  not  the  least  idea  that  we  should  be 
charged  with  board,  knowing  with  what  pleasure  any 
American  officer  would  receive  and  entertain  a  foreign 
brother  soldier  situated  as  we  were,  and  that  we  should 
conceive  it  a  great  insult  to  be  offered  pay  under  similar 
circumstances.  But  one  day,  after  we  had  been  there  about 
a  week,  he  presented  to  me  an  account  for  Robinson's  and 
my  board,  receipted,  and  begged,  if  the  general  inquired  of 
me,  that  I  would  say  I  had  paid  it.  This  naturally  led  me  to 
demand  how  the  thing  originated.  He  with  considerable  em- 
barrassment observed  that  he  had  taken  the  liberty  to  remark 
to  the  general  that  he  thought  he  should  be  allowed  an  extra 
allowance,  in  order  to  be  enabled  to  treat  us  with  some  little 
distinction.  The  general  flew  into  a  violent  passion,  and 
demanded  if  I  had  not  paid  him  for  our  board?  To  which 
the  other  replied.  No,  he  did  not  expect  pay  of  us.  He 
ordered  him  immediately  to  demand  pay,  to  receive  it,  sign 
a  receipt,  and  lodge  it  in  his  hands ;  and  added  that  he 
would  consult  me  if  [to  ascertain  whether]  the  thing  was 
done.  Tliis  he  never  did  ;  yet  I  took  care,  every  Sunday 
after  that,  to  deposit  in  the  hands  of  Walker  a  sum  which 


666  MORE   ABOUT   WALKER. 

was  considered  the  proportion  for  Robinson  and  myself. 
Malgares  and  several  others  of  the  Spanish  ofificers  having 
heard  of  the  thing,  waited  on  us  much  mortified,  saying 
with  what  pleasure  they  would  have  entertained  us  had  not 
the  designation  of  the  general  pointed  out  his  will  on  the 
subject. 

[Walker]  had  living  with  him  an  old  negro,  the  only  one 
I  saw  on  that  side  of  St.  Antonio,  who  was  the  property  of 
some  person  who  resided  near  Natchez,  and  who  had  been 
taken  with  Nolan.  Having  been  acquainted  with  him  in 
the  Mississippi  country,  he  solicited  and  obtained  permis- 
sion for  old  Cajsar  to  live  with  him.  I  found  him  very  com- 
municative and  extremely  useful.  The  day  I  arrived,  when 
we  were  left  alone,  he  came  in,  looked  around  at  the  walls 
of  the  room,  and  exclaimed,  "What!  all  gone?"  I  de- 
manded an  explanation,  and  he  informed  me  that  the  maps 
of  the  different  provinces,  as  taken  by  [Walker]  and  other 
surveyors,  had  been  hung  up  against  the  walls  ;  but  that  the 
day  we  arrived  they  had  all  been  taken  down  and  deposited 
in  a  closet  which  he  designated. 

W[alkcr]  gave  various  reasons  for  having  left  the  United 
States  and  joined  the  Spanish  service ;  one  of  which  was, 
his  father  having  been  ill-treated,  as  he  conceived,  by  G. 
at  Natchez.  At  Chihuahua  he  had  charge  of  the  military 
school,  which  consisted  of  about  15  young  men  of  the  first 
families  of  the  provinces;  also  of  the  public  water-works  of 
the  city,  on  a  plan  devised  by  the  royal  engineer  of  Mexico  ; 
of  the  building  of  a  new  church  ;  of  the  casting  of  small 
artillery,  fabrication  of  arms,  etc.  Thus,  though  he  had 
tendered  his  resignation,  they  knew  his  value  too  well  to 
part  with  him,  and  would  not  accept  of  it,  but  still  kept 
him  in  a  subordinate  station,  in  order  that  he  might  be  the 
more  dependent  and  the  more  useful.  Although  he  candidly 
confessed  his  disgust  at  their  service,  manners,  morals,  and 
political  establishments,  yet  he  never  made  a  communica- 
tion to  us  which  he  was  bound  in  honor  to  conceal  ;  but  on 
the  contrary  fulfilled  the  station  of  informer,  which  in  that 


DEPARTURE  FROM  CHIHUAHUA.  667 

country  is  considered  no  disgrace,  with  great  punctuality 
and  fidelity.  In  this  city  the  proverb  was  literally  true, 
that  "  the  walls  have  ears ";  for  scarcely  anything  could 
pass  that  his  Excellency  did  not  know  in  a  few  hours. 

In  the  evening  I  was  notified  to  be  ready  to  march  the 
next  day  at  three  o'clock. 

Apr.  2Sth.  In  the  morning  Malgares  waited  on  us,  and 
informed  us  he  was  to  accompany  us  some  distance  on  the 
route.  After  bidding  adieu  to  all  our  friends,  we  marched 
at  a  quarter  past  three  o'clock,  and  encamped  at  nine 
o'clock  at  a  stony  spring;  passed  near  Chihuahua  a  small 
ridge  of  mountains,  and  then  encamped  in  a  hollow."' 

As  we  were  riding  along,  Malgares  rode  up  to  me  and 
informed  me  that  the  general  had  given  orders  that  I 
should  not  be  permitted  to  make  any  astronomical  obser- 
vations. To  this  I  replied  that  he  well  knew  I  never  had 
attempted  making  any  since  I  had  been  conducted  into 
the  Spanish  dominions. 

Apr.  2gth.  Arrived  at  a  settlement  [Horcasitas  or  Ba- 
chimba  ?]  at  eight  o'clock  ;  plenty  of  milk,  etc. 

When  about  to  make  my  journal,  Malgares  changed 
color,  and  informed  me  it  was  his  orders   I  should   not  take 

"  Mapula  or  vicinity — perhaps  on  the  spot  noted  in  Wislizenus'  itinerary  of 
Doniphan's  vanguard,  Apr.  25th,  1847,  Mem.  p.  62  ;  "  They  made  on  that 
day  but  14  miles,  and  encamped  at  Coursier's  hacienda,  near  Mapula.  This 
place  is  to  the  right  of  the  usual  road,  and  about  five  miles  out  of  the  way,  but 
has  to  be  resorted  to  for  want  of  water,  if  one  does  not  intend  to  go  in  one 
trip  as  far  as  liachimba,  the  nearest  watering  place  on  the  road,  and  32  miles 
from  Chihuahua."  Mapula  is  marked  on  modern  maps  as  on  the  railroad,  S.  E. 
from  Chihuahua,  while  a  Fresno  appears  to  the  right,  due  S.  from  that  city. 
I'ike  is  to  follow  the  present  railroad  for  many  miles,  but  more  or  less  inexactly. 
His  "  small  ridge  of  mountains  "  is  passed  about  4  m.  S.  of  Chihuahua  ;  this  is 
a  range  of  hills  which  encompass  the  city  on  that  side,  and  command  a  fine 
view.  On  crossing  them,  the  main  road  runs  S.  E.  in  a  valley  10  m. 
wide,  bounded  E.  and  W.  by  mountain  ridges,  with  Coursier's  hacienda  and 
Mapula  off  to  the  right.  About  20  m.  from  Chihuahua  these  ridges  hem  the 
valley  so  closely  as  to  form  a  canon  5  or  6  m.  long  and  I  m.  or  less  wide  ;  Wis- 
lizenus notes  a  spring  and  ranche  in  this  caiion  ;  qu. ;  now  called  Horcasitas  ? 
Kachimba  is  in  the  plain,  about  5  m.  off  the  canon,  on  a  fine  running  stream  ; 
in  1847  it  was  a  hacienda  with  a  dozen  houses. 


668  RIO   SAN   PEDRO — RIO   CONCHOS. 

notes  ;  but  added,  "  you  have  a  good  memory,  and  when 
you  get  to  Cogquilla  [Coahuila]  you  can  bring  it  all  up." 
At  first  I  felt  considerably  indignant,  and  was  on  the  point 
of  refusing  to  comply  ;  but  thinking  for  a  moment  of  the 
many  politenesses  I  had  received  from  his  hands  induced 
me  merely  to  bow  assent  with  a  smile.  We  proceeded  on 
our  route,  but  had  not  gone  far  before  I  made  a  pretext  to 
halt,  established  my  boy  as  a  vedet  [vidette],  sat  down 
peaceably  under  a  bush,  and  made  my  notes.  This  course 
I  pursued  ever  after,  not  without  some  very  considerable 
degree  of  trouble  to  separate  myself  from  the  party. 

Arrived  at  the  fort  of  St.  Paul  at  eleven  o'clock,  situated 
on  a  small  river  of  the  same  name,  the  course  of  which  is 
N.  E.  by  S.  W.  At  the  time  we  were  there  the  river  was 
not  wider  than  a  mill  stream  ;  but  sometimes  it  is  300  yards 
wide,  and  impassable.     Distance  30  miles.'" 

Apr.joth.  Marched  at  six  o'clock,  and  at  eleven  arrived 
at  [Saucillo,  on]  the  river  Conchos — 24  miles ;  beautiful 
green  trees  on  its  banks.  I  was  taken  very  sick  at  half  past 
ten  o'clock.  Arrived  at  night  at  a  small  station  [Las  Garzas] 
on  the  river  Conchos,  garrisoned  by  a  sergeant  and  10  men 
from  Fort  Conchos,  15  leagues  up  said  river.  Distance  43 
miles." 

'*Pike  marks  the  fort  "  P[residio]  de  S"-  Paubia,"  and  the  river  "Rio 
•S"  Paubia,"  without  prejudice  to  the  gender  of  the  holy  person  concerned. 
Modern  Ortiz  is  about  the  site  of  the  Presidio  San  Pablo,  on  the  railroad,  on 
the  N.  or  left  bank  of  the  river  ;  the  latter  is  present  Rio  San  Pedro,  a  large 
branch  of  the  Conchos  which  falls  in  above  Julimes.  About  lo  ra.  S.  of 
Bachimba  the  road  forked  ;  the  right-hand  fork  went  S.  S.  E.,  to  Santa  Cruz 
de  Resales,  which  was  said  to  contain  5,000  inhabitants  in  itself  and  vicinity  in 
1847  ;  it  is  on  the  Rio  San  Pedro,  8  m.  higher  up  than  San  Pablo,  to  which 
the  left-hand  road  leads  S.  E.  The  latter  is  the  one  Pike  took  ;  it  is  shorter 
th.an  the  other  ;  both  come  together  before  Saucillo  is  reached.  In  1S47  San 
Pablo  was  reported  to  be  "  a  flourishing  place,  with  about  4,000  inhabitants": 
Wislizenus,  Mem.  p.  63.  Rio  San  Pedro  is  a  fine  stream,  over  100  m.  long,  head- 
ing in  the  mountains  on  the  W.  The  plain  or  valley  which  it  traverses,  and  in 
which  both  the  roads  above  mentioned  lie,  has  a  varying  width  of  25-35  •"• 

"  Pike  struck  Rio  Conchos  where  the  railroad  does  now — at  Saucillo,  or  EI 
Saucillo,  a  town  on  the  left  or  W.  bank  of  the  river  ;  the  "  24  miles  "  from  San 
Pablo  to  this  place  is  about  right.     This  march  was  through  the  same  valley  as 


KIO   FLORIDO— SANTA   ROSALIA.  669 

May  1st.  Marched  up  the  Conchos  to  its  confluence  with 
the  river  Florada  [Rio  Fiorido],  15  leagues  from  where  we 
left  the  former  [Conchos]  river,  and  took  up  the  latter  [Rio 
FloridoJ,  which  bears  from  the  Conchos  S.  So''  and  50°  E. 
On  its  banks  are  some  very  flourishing  settlements,  and  they 
are  well  timbered.  A  poor  miserable  village  [Santa  Rosalia] 
is  at  the  confluence.  Came  10  miles  up  the  Florada  to  din- 
ner, and  at  night  stopped  at  a  private  house.  This  property 
or  plantation  was  valued  formerly  at  $300,000,  extending  on 
the  Florada,  from  the  small  place  where  we  slept  on  the 
30th  of  April,  30  leagues  up  said  river.     Distance  45  miles." 

yesterday's,  with  a  good  but  not  such  a  level  road,  as  the  mountains  approach  each 
other  near  Saucillo,  leaving  S.  of  it  a  ga[)  tlirough  which  the  road  continues  into 
the  next  valley.  The  niglit's  small  station  is  less  easily  identified,  but  was  no 
doubt  at  Las  Garzas  or  in  that  immediate  vicinity,  where  the  Conchos  is  crossed. 
A  Mexican  league  is  supposed  to  be  5,000  varas  (of  about  33  inches  each=about 
4,583  yards,  or  nearly  2  J^  m.),  but  in  itineraries  is  usually  found  to  be  less  than 
this.  Las  Garzas  (Sp.  garzas,  ' '  herons  ")  is  an  obscure  place  not  to  be  found 
on  many  modern  maps  ;  it  is  beyond  Concho  and  La  Cruz  (both  of  which  are 
points  on  the  railroad).  Wislizenus  notes  it  on  his  journey,  Mem.  p.  64  ;  "  We 
passed  through  la  Cruz,  a  small  town,  and  further  below  [further  S.,  but  higher 
up  Rio  Conchos],  through  las  Garzas,  a  smaller  place  yet,  where  we  crossed  the 
Conchos."  It  is  the  place  marked  "  Pres[iJio]"  on  Tike's  map,  which  is  prob- 
ably in  error  in  marking  the  trail  as  continuing  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Conchos. 

Rio  Conchos  is  the  ])rincipal  river  of  Chihu.-ihua,  over  400  m.  long,  and  with 
its  many  tributaries  watering  much  of  the  State.  The  name  is  said  to  be  de- 
rived from  its  shells  (Sp.  conchas),  and  I  have  seen  Shell  r.  in  print.  It  makes 
a  long  loop  southward  before  turning  N.,  and  then  runs  about  N.  E.  into  the 
Rio  Grande  at  Presidio  del  Norte — a  place  also  called  Presidio  de  las  Juntas 
(lettered  "  Santas  "  on  Pike's  map)  from  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers.  Rios 
Fiorido  and  San  Pedro  are  its  principal  tributaries.  Pike  lays  down  the  Conchos 
pretty  well :  notice  particularly  its  northward  course  on  the  \V.  of  the  moun- 
tains, along  what  is  called  on  his  map  "  Puerta  de  la  Virgin." 

"  Pike's  route  of  May  1st  prob.ably  crossed  the  Conchos  at  or  near  Las  Garzas. 
and  continued  approximately  up  the  right  or  E.  bank  of  th.it  river  to  the  conflu- 
ence of  Rio  Fiorido,  opp.  Santa  Rosalia,  the  "  poor  miserable  village"  of  the 
text,  which  stood  on  a  hill  in  the  point  between  the  two  rivers  ;  its  present 
name  is  the  same  ;  the  railroad  passes  it  now.  Writing  of  Apr.  30th,  1847, 
Wislizenus  has,  Mem.  p.  65  :  "  Santa  Rosalia  is  a  town  of  about  5,000  inhab- 
itants ;  it  lies  on  a  hill  about  100  feet  higher  than  the  river,  and  towards  the  S. 
spreading  out  on  a  small  plateau.  Here,  on  the  southern  end  of  the  town,  the 
Mexicans  had  erected  a  fort  against  General  Wool,  when  his  division  was  ex- 
pected to  march  towards  Chihuahua."     The  town  is  not  marked  on  Pike's  map. 


670  MALGARES   RELIEVED   BY   BARELO. 

Finding  that  a  new  species  of  discipline  had  taken  place, 
and  that  the  suspicions  of  my  friend  Malgares  were  much 
more  acute  than  ever,  I  conceived  it  necessary  to  take  some 
steps  to  secure  the  notes  I  had  taken,  which  had  been  clan- 
destinely acquired.  In  the  night  I  arose,  and  after  making 
my  men  charge  all  their  pieces  well,  I  took  my  small  books 
and  rolled  them  up  in  small  rolls,  tore  a  fine  shirt  to  pieces, 
and  wrapped  it  round  the  papers,  and  put  them  down  in  the 
barrels  of  the  guns,  until  we  just  left  room  for  the  tompoins 
[tampons],  which  were  then  carefully  put  in  ;  the  remainder 
we  secured  about  our  bodies  under  our  shirts.  This  occu- 
pied about  two  hours,  but  was  effected  without  discovery 
and  without  suspicions. 

May  2d.  Marched  early,  and  in  43^  hours  arrived  at 
Guaxequillo,'''  situated  on  the  river  Florada,  where  we  were 
to  exchange  our  friend  Malgares  for  Captain  Barelo,  who 
was  a  Mexican  by  birth,  born  near  the  capital  and  entered  as 
a  cadet  at  Guaxequillo  near  20  years  past,  and  who,  by  his 
extraordinary  merits,  being  a  Creolian,  had  been  promoted 
to  a  captaincy,  which  was  even  by  himself  considered  his 
ultimate  promotion.  He  was  a  gentleman  in  his  manners, 
generous  and  frank,  and  I  believe  a  good  soldier. 

Sunday,  May  jd.     At  Guaxequillo  the   captain  gave  up 

which,  moreover,  gives  his  trail  as  crossing  the  Conchos  there  and  the  Florido 
higher  up,  though  the  usual  road  comes  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Conchos  and 
crosses  the  Florido  at  or  near  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  to  continue  E.  S.  E.  up  its 
left  side.  Rio  Florido  is  the  largest  branch  of  the  Conchos,  having  itself  various 
tributaries,  as  R.  de  Barral,  falling  in  near  Bustamente,  and  R.  Allende,  with 
Jimenez  near  its  mouth  ;  the  railroad  crosses  both  of  these  at  the  places  said. 
Neither  of  these  streams  appears  on  Pike's  map.  The  place  where  he  dined 
seems  to  be  about  that  marked  Santa  Rita  on  his  map.  This  I  do  not  recog- 
nize ;  but  it  cannot  have  been  far  from  Bustamente.  The  evident  confusion  of 
distances  in  the  text  makes  it  probably  imposssible  to  identify  the  "private 
house  "  at  which  he  slept.  La  Ramada  was  a  small  place  on  the  Rio  Florido, 
about  24  m.  from  Santa  Rosalia.  He  seems  to  have  come  beyond  this  point, 
perhaps  to  the  vicinity  of  present  Jimenez  (on  the  railroad).  His  legend 
"  Camion  de  Monaseo"  iiresiimably  stands  for  Camino  de  Monasterio  (Monas- 
tery road). 

"  Or  Guajuquilla  :  a  well-known  pLace  on  the  right  or  S.  bank  of  the  river, 
marked  on  Pike's   map  as  a  presidio  or  fortilied  town.     A  citation   from  Wisli- 


GUAJUQUILLA  AND   ONWARD.  671 

his  command  to  Malgares.  At  night  the  officers  gave  a  ball, 
at  which  appeared  at  least  sixty  women,  ten  or  a  dozen  of 
whom  were  very  handsome. 

May  ph.  Don  Hymen  Guloo  arrived  from  Chihuahua, 
accompanied  by  a  citizen  and  a  friar,  who  had  been  arrested 
by  order  of  the  commandant-general,  and  was  on  his  way  to 
Mexico  for  trial. 

May  §tJi.  The  party  marched  with  all  the  spare  horses 
and  baggage. 

May  6th.  Marched  at  five  o'clock  ;  ascended  the  river 
four  miles,  when  we  left  it  to  our  right  and  took  off  S.  60^ 
E.,  eight  miles.  Our  friend  Malgares  accompanied  us  a  few 
miles,  to  whom  we  bade  an  eternal  adieu,  if  war  does  not 
bring  us  together  in  the  field  of  battle  opposed  as  the  most 
deadly  enemies,  when  our  hearts  acknowledge  the  greatest 
friendship.  Halted  at  ten  o'clock,  and  marched  again  at  four. 
No  water  on  the  road ;  detached  a  Spanish  soldier  in  search 
of  some,  who  did  not  join  us  until  twelve  o'clock  at  night. 
Encamped  in  the  open  prairie  ;  no  wood ;  no  water,  ex- 
cept what  the  soldier  brought  us  in  gourds.  The  mules 
came  up  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night.     Distance  30  miles." 

May  jtli.  Marched  very  early ;  wind  fresh  from  the 
south.     The  punctuality  of  Captain  Barelo  as  to  hours  was 

zenus,  Mem.  p.  65,  will  throw  some  further  light  on  the  situation  :  "  Made  a 
strong  march  to-day  [May  3d,  1847]  of  33  miles  [from  La  Ramada],  to  Giuijti- 
quilla.  The  road  was  constantly  winding  itself  through  endless  chaparral  ;  the 
Rio  Florido  on  the  left,  and  mountains  and  hills  east  and  west,  in  the  distance, 
from  10  to  20  miles.  About  half  way  we  passed  a  rancho  with  some  water  ; 
farther  on  the  road  forks  ;  the  right  hand  road  leads  directly  to  the  town  ;  the 
other  by  a  large  hacienda  [qu. :  where  Pike  slept  last  night?].  Before  Guaju- 
quilla  we  crossed  the  Florido,  and  passing  through  town  encamped  south  of  it. 
Guajuquilla  looks  more  like  a  town  than  any  other  place  we  have  seen  so  far,  on 
the  road  from  Chihuahua  ;  its  population  is  from  6  to  7,000."  Three  miles  S. 
of  this  town  was  the  Hacienda  de  Dolores,  "  a  large  estate  with  well  irrigated 
and  cultivated  fields";  a  place  on  the  railroad  is  now  marked  "Dolores." 
Thence  the  road  continued  for  a  Jornada  of  about  50  m.  without  water.  Pike 
will  proceed  upon  this  on  the  6th,  the  party  having  been  sent  ahead  on  the  5th. 
'"  An  unidentifiable  place  on  the  jomada,  short  of  the  first  water  from 
Guajuquilla. 


6/2  SEVERAL   SPRINGS — ANDABAZO    RIVER. 

remarkable.  Arrived  at  half  past  nine  o'clock  at  a  spring 
[Ojo  S.  Bernarde  of  Pike's  map  ?],  the  first  water  from 
Guaxequillo.  The  mules  did  not  unload,  but  continued  on 
nine  miles  to  another  spring  [Ojo  S  Bias  of  Pike's  map]  at 
the  foot  of  a  mountain,  with  good  pasturage  round  it ; 
mountains  on  each  side  all  day.^' 

May  8th.  Marched,  at  five  miles  due  west,  through  a  gap 
in  the  mountains ;  then  turned  S.  20°  E.,  and  more  south  to 
a  [Cerro  Gordo  or  Andabazo]  river  about  20  feet  wide,  with 
high  steep  banks  ;  now  dry  except  in  holes,  but  sometimes 
full  and  impassable.  Halted  at  seven  o'clock  and  sent  on 
the  loaded  mules.  Marched  at  five  o'clock ;  came  ten  miles 
and  encamped  without  water.     Distance  18  miles."' 

"  Pike's  map  marks  the  first  spring  on  the  road  as  "  Ojo  S.  Bernarde  "  and 
the  next  as  "Ojo  S  Bias" — names  which  appear  to  lie  transposed  from  tlie 
order  in  which  they  come  in  other  itineraries  of  this  route.  Thus  Wislizenus, 
Mem.  p.  66 :  "  About  eight  miles  from  our  to-night  camp,  we  passed  a  spring, 
with  a  water-pool,  in  a  ravine  to  the  left  of  our  road  ;  but  the  water  was  so 
muddy  and  brackish,  that  the  animals  refused  to  drink,  or  rather  to  eat  it. 
This  spot  is  known  as  San  Antonio  camp.  Three  miles  further,  a  few  deserted 
houses,  and  a  spring  on  the  right  hand  of  the  road,  {San  Bias,)  are  found  ;  but 
the  water  is  equally  bad,  and  of  sulphureted  taste.  The  first  good  water,  and 
in  sufficient  quantity,  is  met  about  five  miles  beyond  San  Bias,  in  San  Bernardo, 
a  deserted  rancho,  with  willows  and  cotton  trees,  built  against  a  steep  mountain 
wall,  from  whence  a  fine  creek  takes  its  origin.  A  small  plain  half  a  mile  be- 
low the  rancho  contains  also  some  springs  and  water-pools,  and  good  grass.  We 
pitched  our  camp  in  this  plain.  We  have  travelled  to-day,  according  to  my  esti- 
mate, about  40  miles  [/.  <r.,  from  a  dry  camp  about  20  m.  from  the  Hacienda 
de  Dolores,  near  Guajuquilla]."  It  is  clear  that  Wislizenus  is  on  Pike's  trail, 
and  that  they  have  reached  what  is  practically  the  same  camp — near  the  San 
Bernardo  spring  of  the  former's  narrative,  or  the  San  Bias  spring  of  the  lat- 
ter's  map  ;  and  that  the  spring  which  Pike  speaks  of  as  the  "first  water  from 
Guaxequillo  "  and  maps  as  San  Bernarde  spring,  was  either  the  San  Antonio 
camp  or  the  San  Bias  spring  of  Wislizenus.  The  situation  is  considerably  ofl 
the  present  railroad,  and  the  above  names  are  not  to  be  found  on  ordinary 
modern  maps.  But  my  identifications  are  confirmed  by  the  fact  that  both 
travelers,  on  decamping  next  day,  cross  a  mountain  gap  or  pass  and  soon  come 
upon  a  river  :  see  next  note. 

'''The  mountain  Pike  passes,  and  the  river  he  crosses,  are  easily  identified  ; 
the  latter  is  the  stream  known  as  El  Andabazo  (or  Cerro  Gordo),  with  a  town  of 
the  latter  name  higher  up  on  it.  This  is  the  first  of  several  streams  we  shall 
cross,  running  to  the  left  as  we  go,  and  sinking  in  the  Bolson  dc  Ma])imi — for 


DURANGO  ENTERED — PELAYO.  6-]l 

May  gth.  Marched  between  four  and  five  o'clock  and 
arrived  at  Pelia  [Pelayo]  at  eight."  This  is  only  a  station 
for  a  few  soldiers,  but  is  surrounded  by  [copper]  mines. 
At  this  place  are  two  large  warm  springs,  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sulphur,  and  this  is  the  water  obliged  to  be  used 
by  the  party  who  are  stationed  there.  Here  we  remained 
all  day.  Captain  Barelo  had  two  beeves  killed  for  his  and 
my  men,  and  charged  nothing  to  either.  Here  he  received 
orders  from  the  general  to  lead  us  through  the  wilderness 
to  Montelovez  [Monclova],  in  order  that  we  should  not 
approximate  to  the  frontiers  of  Mexico,  which  we  should 

they  are  all  beyond  the  Conchos  basin,  the  divide  of  vvhicli  was  passed  in  the 
course  of  the  long  dry  Jornada  above  noted.  The  lake  that  the  Cerro  Gordo 
cr.  sinks  in  is  sometimes  called  Laguna  de  Xacco  :  so  Hughes,  Don.  Exp.,  1847, 
p.  I2g.  The  trail  Pike  followed  is  thus  described  by  Wislizenus,  p.  66  ;  "  We 
started  late,  and  made  but  10  miles,  to  the  Cerro  Gordo,  or  el  Andabazo  creek. 
Having  crossed  the  mountain,  at  whose  foot  San  Bernardo  lies,  we  went  for 
a  mile  through  a  caiion,  with  mountains  of  limestone  on  both  sides,  and  from 
there  into  another  valley,  watered  by  the  el  Andabazo.  This  considerable 
creek  seems  to  run  from  southwest  to  northeast."  The  obscure  town  of  Cerro 
Gordo  above  named  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  place  in  Vera  Cruz  which 
was  the  scene  of  the  famous  battle  of  Cerro  Gordo. 

Pike  has  now  passed  the  present  interstate  boundary  between  Chihuahua  and 
Durango.  The  line  runs  on  a  parallel  of  latitude  from  Lago  de  Tlahualila  60 
Mex.  leagues  W.  to  a  source  of  Rio  del  Fuerte  near  Huenote.  Pike  maps 
Lake  Tlahualila  conspicuously  :  see  the  large  sheet  of  water  laid  down  in  the 
Bolson  Mapimi  across  which  is  legended  "  Here  the  Indians  sallied  forth  to 
attack  New  Biscay  and  Cohuahuila,"  and  which  has  a  large  forked  stream  run- 
ning into  it  from  the  S.  The  main  fork  of  this  is  the  present  Rio  de  Nasas, 
which  actually  discharges  into  Laguna  del  Muerto  ;  so  Pike's  body  of  water 
represents  both  Lake  Tlahualila  and  the  Lake  of  the  Dead,  as  well  as 
some  smaller  sheets,  as  Laguna  del  Cayman,  etc.,  all  lying  in  the  same  general 
depression.  Pike  mentions  "Lac  du  Cayman"  elsewhere  and  correctly  says 
that  Rio  Nassas  (which  he  also  calls  Brassos)  falls  into  it.  L.  de  Parras,  how- 
ever, he  lays  down  separately,  with  its  own  river  discharging  into  it.  The 
boundaries  of  Chihuahua,  Durango,  and  Coahuila  all  meet  in  Lake  Tlahualila, 
whence  that  between  Durango  and  Coahuila  runs  S.  for  a  few  miles  and  then 
S.  E.,  while  that  between  Chihuahua  and  Coahuila  extends  N.  along  the  border 
of  the  Bolson  to  the  Rio  Grande. 

"  Pelayo  is  the  best-known  place  we  have  come  to  since  leaving  GuajuquiUa, 
and  easily  found  on  modern  maps  by  this  name  ;  it  appears  on  Pike's  map  as 
"  PFresidio].  Pelia,"  and  has  been  more  fully  called  Hacienda  de  San  Jose  de 


6/4  THROUGH   THE   DOOR   OK   THE   PRISON. 

have  done  by  the  usual  route  of  Pattos  [Patos],  Paras 
[Parras],  etc. 

Sunday,  May  lotJi.  Marched  past  one  copper  mine 
[Oruilla],  now  dihgently  worked.  At  this  place  the  pro- 
prietor had  ioo,cX)0  sheep,  cattle,  horses,  etc.  Arrived  at 
the  Cadena,"  a  house  built  and  occupied  by  a  priest.  It  is 
situated  on  a  small  stream  at  the  pass  of  the  [Sierra  de  las 
Mimbres]  mountains,  called  by  the  Spaniards  [Puerta  de 
Cadena,  or]  Door  of  the  Prison,  from  its  being  surrounded 
with  mountains.    The  proprietor  was  at  Sumbraretto  [Som- 

Pelayo.  The  name  is  thus  a  personal  one,  though  some  have  derived  it  from 
Sp.  pelar,  to  boil,  scald,  with  reference  to  the  hot  suliihur  springs.  (One 
Pelayo,  Latinized  Pelagius,  founded  the  monarchy  of  Asturias  in  Spain  early 
in  the  eighth  century  A.  D.  The  form  Palayo  is  also  found.)  The  place  is  on 
the  main  road,  about  25  m.  from  the  crossing  of  Andabazo  cr.  "  Pelayo," 
says  Wislizenus,  p.  67,  "  is  a  small  village,  or  hacienda,  with  several  good 
springs  around  it  ;  some  of  common,  others  of  higher  temperature.  The  creek 
formed  by  them  is,  according  to  the  Mexican  statements,  afterwards  lost  in 
the  sand.  .  .  In  Pelayo,  a  small  but  steep  hill  was  fortified  on  the  top,  by  walls 
of  stone.  This  fortification  was  probably  intended  against  General  Wool's 
army.  Two  days  before  us  \i.  e..  May  5th,  1S47]  Lieutenant  Colonel  Mitchell 
had  arrived  here  with  the  vanguard  [uf  Doniphan's  troops],  and  seeing  the 
inhabitants  of  the  place  organized  as  a  military  company,  he  made  30  of  them 
prisoners,  and  took  their  arms  from  them  ;  but  upon  their  representation  that 
they  would  by  this  act  become  a  prey  to  the  surrounding  Indians,  he  restored 
them  their  arms,  under  the  condition  that  they  be  used  only  for  defence 
against  Indians."  That  series  of  creeks  flowing  to  the  left,  two  of  which  have 
thus  far  been  mentioned,  are  all  crossed  by  the  railroad,  much  E.  of  Pike's 
route  ;  four  places  at  or  near  which  such  crossings  occur  are  named  Escalon, 
Zavalza,  Conejos,  and  Peronal — the  two  former  in  Chihuahua,  the  two  latter  in 
Durango,  and  the  last  of  these  being  nearest  the  railroad  crossing  of  the  creek 
which  flows  through  La  Cadena,  as  about  to  be  noted. 

■*  La  Cadena  is  present  name  of  a  place  on  or  near  the  fourth  one  of  the  small 
streams  above  noted,  considerably  off  (?)  the  modern  main  road — say  20  ni. 
S.  W.  of  Peronal,  and  25  m.  due  W.  of  Mapimi.  It  is  reached  by  a  rough 
mountain  road  18  m.  from  Pelayo,  past  the  copper  mine  of  Oruilla ;  the 
hacienda  there,  of  which  Pike  speaks  as  being  so  rich  in  stock,  had  been 
deserted  when  Wislizenus  passed  in  1847.  The  creek  comes  from  the  Sierra 
de  las  Mimbres,  on  the  W.  Another  steep  range  rises  about  3  m.  E.  of  La 
Cadena  ;  the  gap  between  the  two  is  the  Pass  of  Cadena,  Puerta  de  Cadena,  or 
"  Door  of  the  Prison,"  through  which  Pike  goes  to-day  due  E.  in  the  direction 
of  Mapimi. 


MAPIMI — BOLSON   DE   MAPIMI.  675 

brerito],  distance  six  days'  march.  Tliis  hacienda  was 
obHged  to  furnish  accommodations  to  all  travelers. 

Marched  at  five  o'clock,  passed  the  chain  of  mountains 
due  east  [in  the  direction  of  Mapimi]  12  miles,  and  en- 
camped without  water.     Distance  31  miles. 

May  nth.  Marched  and  arrived  at  Maupemie  [Mapimi "] 
at  eight  o'clock,  a  village  situated  at  the  foot  of  mountains 
of  minerals,  where  they  worked  eight  or  nine  mines.  The 
mass  of  the  people  were  naked  and  starved  wretches.  The 
proprietor  of  the  mines  gave  us  an  elegant  repast.  Here 
the  orders  of  Salcedo  were  explained  to  me  by  the  captain. 

1  replied  that  they  excited  my  laughter,  as  there  were  dis- 
affected persons  sufificient  to  serve  as  guides  should  an  army 
ever  come  into  the  country. 

Came  on  three  miles  further,  where  were  fig-trees  and 
a  fruit  called  by  the  French   La  Grain  [i-zV],  situated   on 

'*  Lettered  "  Maupeme  "  on  the  map,  and  so  rendered  in  the  text  beyond  ; 
same  word  .as  that  in  Pike's  legend  "  Bolson  de  Mapini  ";  now  usually  spelled 
Mapimi.  Hughes  writes  Malpimi.  The  meaning  of  the  word  is  unknown,  as 
it  probably  would  not  be  were  it  of  Spanish  derivation  ;  its  most  frequent  use  is 
in  the  phrase  Bolson  de  Mapimi,  applied  to  very  extensive  tracts  of  low-lying 
ground  encompassed  with  mountains,  chiefly  in  the  states  of  Chihuahua  and 
Coahuila,  but  also  overreaching  into  Durango.  Bolson  is  a  Spanish  word  which 
means  various  things,  among  them  "  purse,"  "  pouch,"  or  "  pocket,"  and  seems 
to  be  applied  here  in  the  same  way  that  we  use  the  word  "  hole  "  for  several  dif- 
ferent valleys  in  our  Rocky  mts.  Mapimi,  as  the  designation  of  a  particular 
place,  is  still  the  name  of  the  town  Pike  comes  to,  now  on  the  railroad,  about 
15  m.  by  rail  from  Peronal,  and  about  20  m.  by  the  road  he  came  from  La 
Cadena  Pass.  It  is  thus  the  place  where  the  highway  and  the  railroad  come 
together.  The  situation  is  the  eastern  part  of  an  extensive  v.illey  some  20  m. 
wide  and  35  m.  long  from  N.  to  S.,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  mountains  yield- 
ing silver  mines.  "  Two  springs,  called  Espiritu  Santo  and  Agua  de  Leon, 
form  here  [at  Mapimi]  a  creek,  which  runs  through  the  town  in  an  eastern 
direction,"  Wislizenus,  /.  c.  This  seems  to  be  the  stream  that  "  formed  a  ter- 
restrial paradise  "  for  Pike — as  well  it  might,  with  the  Holy  Ghost  re-enforcing 
Ponce  de  Leon.  Wislizenus  found  Mapimi  "  rather  deserted,"  May  gth,  1847; 
but  the  artillery  "fired  a  salute,  in  honor  of  Ihe  anniversary  of  the  battle  of 
P.ilo  Alto"  (fought  May  8th,  1846).  Pike's  camp  of  the  nth  of  May,  3  m.  E. 
of  Mapimi,  was  snug  under  the  eastern   mountain  chain,  whence  it  was  about 

2  m.  through  a  canon  into  another  valley  forming  a  part  of  the  series  of  the 
Bolson  de  Maiiimi. 


676  HARMONY   IN   PARADISE. 

a  little  stream  which  flowed  through  the  gardens,  and 
formed  a  terrestrial  paradise.  Here  we  remained  all  day 
sleeping  in  the  shade  of  the  fig-trees,  and  at  night  continued 
our  residence  in  the  garden.  We  obliged  the  inhabitants 
with  a  ball,  who  expressed  great  anxiety  for  a  relief  from 
their  present  distressed  state,  and  a  change  of  government. 

May  I2tk.  Was  awakened  in  the  morning  by  the  singing 
of  the  birds  and  the  perfume  of  the  trees  around.  I  at- 
tempted to  send  two  of  my  soldiers  to  town  [Mapimi], 
but  they  were  overtaken  by  a  dragoon  and  ordered  back  ; 
on  their  return  I  again  ordered  them  to  go,  and  told  them 
if  a  soldier  attempted  to  stop  them  to  take  him  off  his  horse 
and  flog  him.  This  I  did,  as  I  conceived  it  was  the  duty  of 
the  captain  to  explain  his  orders  relative  to  me,  which  he 
had  not  done ;  and  I  conceived  that  this  would  bring  on  an 
explanation.  They  were  pursued  by  a  dragoon  through  the 
town,  who  rode  after  them,  making  use  of  ill  language. 
They  attempted  to  catch  him,  but  could  not.  As  I  had 
mentioned  my  intention  of  sending  my  men  to  town  after 
some  stores  to  Captain  Barelo,  and  he  had  not  made  any 
objections,  I  conceived  it  was  acting  with  duplicity  to  send 
men  to  watch  the  movements  of  my  messengers.  I  there- 
fore determined  they  should  punish  the  dragoons  unless 
the  captain  had  candor  sufficient  to  explain  his  reasons 
for  not  wishing  my  men  to  go  to  town,  in  which  wish  I 
should  undoubtedly  have  acquiesced ;  but  as  he  never 
mentioned  the  circumstance,  I  was  guardedly  silent,  and 
the  affair  never  interrupted  our  harmony. 

We  marched  at  five  o'clock;  came  on  15  miles  and  en- 
camped without  water.  One  mile  on  this  side  of  the  little 
village  "  the  road  branches  out  into  three.     The  right-hand 

'*"  The  little  village  "  is  not  named.  Pike's  map  makes  the  triple  forking 
of  the  road  he  is  about  to  mention  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Mapimi  ;  but 
this  appears  to  be  an  error,  as  he  was  already  3  m.  beyond  that  town  when  he 
started  on  the  I2th.  His  map  is  otherwise  so  far  out  of  drawing  that  it  does 
help  us  much  more  than  the  slender  thread  of  text  to  discover  exactly  what 
way  Captain  Barelo  took  him  around  the  Bolson  to  Parras.  The  precise  stages 
of  the  journey   to  Parras  would  probably  be  recoverable  by  one  thoroughly 


THREE  WAYS   OUT  OF  PARADISE.  677 

one  by  Pattos,  Paras,  Saltelo  [Patos,  Parras,  Saltillo],  etc., 
is  the  main  road  to  [the  city  of]  Mexico  and  San  Antonio 
[in  Texas].  The  [middle]  road  which  we  took  leaves  all  the 
villages  a  little  to  the  right,  passing  only  some  plantations. 
The  left-hand  one  goes  immediately  through  the  mountains 
to  Montelovez,  but  is  dangerous  for  small  parties  on  account 
of  the  savages  ;  this  road  is  called  the  route  by  the  Bolson 
of  Maupeme,  and  was  first  traveled  by  Monsieur  de  Croix, 
afterward  viceroy  of  Peru.  In  passing  from  Chihuahua  to 
Texas,  by  this  [left-hand]  route,  you  make  in  seven  days 
what  it  takes  you  15  or  20  bythe  ordinary  one  ;  but  it  is 
very  scarce  of  water,  and  your  guards  must  either  be  so 
strong  as  to  defy  the  Appaches,  or  calculate  to  escape  them 
by  swiftness  ;  for  they  fill  those  mountains,  whence  they 
continually  carry  on  a  predatory  war  against  the  Spanish 
settlements  and  caravans. 

We  this  day  passed  on  to  the  territories  of  the  Marquis 
de  San  Miquel  [Miguel],  who  owns  from  the  mountains  of 

familiar  with  the  ground  ;  but  it  is  impossible  for  me  to  trace  the  route  upon  any 
map  I  have  been  able  to  find.  The  only  road  laid  down  on  the  l)est  map  before 
me  runs  down  the  Rio  Nasas  past  San  Lorenzo  to  Mayron,  at  the  Laguna  del 
Muerto,  into  which  that  river  sinks,  and  thence  to  Pozo  (Pozzo)  and  Parras. 
From  the  railroad  junction  at  Torreon  the  track  runs  at  a  distance  from,  but 
approximately  parallel  with,  the  river  and  the  ro.ad  just  indicated,  through  places 
marked  Matamoras,  Colonia,  and  Hornos,  to  Mayron  and  thence  to  Pozo. 
Wislizenus  speaks  of  a  place  apparently  about  where  Pike  comes  to  on  the  12th, 
where  the  road  forks,  and  describes  a  "northern"  and  a  "  southern  "  route. 
The  northern  one,  he  says,  leads  by  Alamito,  San  Lorenzo,  and  San  Juan  (all 
on  the  Rio  Nasas)  to  El  Pozo  ;  it  is  thus  identical  with  or  very  nearly  the  same 
as  the  one  just  said  to  descend  the  Rio  Nasas.  The  southern  one,  he  says, 
would  have  taken  him  by  San  Sebastian,  on  the  Nasas,  to  Gatuno,  Matamoras 
(or  la  Bega  de  Maraujo),  Santa  Mayara,  by  the  Laguna  de  Parras  to  Alamo  de 
Parras,  St.  Domingo,  and  Pefia,  to  El  Pozo,  and  thence  to  Parras.  I  think 
that  Pike's  route  coincides  most  closely  with  this  one  ;  it  is  for  the  most  part 
S.  of  the  railroad,  passing  close  to  the  Lagima  de  Parras  (the  sink  of  the 
Rio  Guanabel);  and  when  we  find  him  at  Parras,  on  the  17th,  he  is  almost  due 
E.  of  the  place  where  he  crossed  the  Rio  Nasas,  at  an  air-line  distance  there- 
from of  nearly  or  about  40  Mexican  leagues — say  100  m. 

The  "  Monsieur  de  Croix"  above  named  is  Teodoro  de  Croix,  b.  at  Lille, 
Flanders,  about  1730,  d.  at  Madrid,  Spain,  Apr.  8th,  1791  ;  he  was  viceroy  of 


678  RIO  NASAS,   NILE  OF  THE   BOLSON. 

the  Rio  del  Norte  to  some  distance  in  the  kingdom  of  Old 
Mexico. 

May  ijth.  Came  on  to  the  river  Brasses  [Rio  Nasas," 
on  which  was  the]  Ranche  de  St.  Antonio,  part  of  the 
marquis'  estate.  My  boy  and  self  halted  at  the  river 
Brasses  to  water  our  horses,  having  ridden  on  ahead,  and 
took  the  bridles  from  their  mouths  in  order  that  they  might 
drink  freely,  which  they  could  not  do  with  the  Spanish 
bridles.  The  horse  I  rode  had  been  accustomed  to  being 
held  by  his  master  in  a  peculiar  manner  when  bridled,  and 
would  not  let  me  put  it  on  again  for  a  long  time  ;  in  the 
meantime  my  boy's  horse  ran  away,  and  it  was  out  of  our 
power  to  catch  him  again.     But  when  we  arrived    at  the 

Peru  from  Apr.,  1784,  to  Mar.,  1790;  he  had  previously  served  as  comman- 
dant of  the  interior  provinces  and  of  Sonora,  under  his  elder  brother,  Carlos 
Francisco  de  Croix,  Marques  de  Croix,  and  viceroy  of  New  Spain,  1766-1771. 
See  the  legend  of  his  route  on  Pike's  map. 

"  "  Brasses"  and  "  Brasses"  are  Pike's  rendering  of  Brazos,  name  of  a  great 
river  in  Texas,  but  the  stream  here  meant  by  "Brasses"  is  Rio  Nasas  (or 
Nazas),  vifhich  flows  into  Laguna  del  Mucrto,  in  Coahuila.  This  he  else- 
where calls  Nassas  and  Nassus  ;  saying  that  it  runs  into  Lake  Cayman,  and 
forms  part  of  the  boundary  between  Cogquilla  (Coahuila)  and  New  Biscay  (his 
name  for  Chihuahua,  though  he  means  Durango).  He  also  charts  it  conspicu- 
ously, but  much  out  of  drawing  :  see  his  map,  first  river  E.  of  Mapimi,  with 
"  Rancho  S"  Antonio  "  there  lettered.  Some  of  my  maps,  running  back  40  ytnis, 
apply  the  name  Nazas  to  that  other  stream  (Rio  Guanabal)  which  sinks  in 
Laguna  de  Parras,  and  which  Pike  also  charts,  greatly  out  of  position  ;  but  he 
is  correct  in  his  identification  of  the  Nasas.  This  is  a  notable  stream  in  Dur.ingo 
and  Coahuila,  which  has  been  called  "  the  vein  and  center  of  the  Bolson  "  by 
Wislizenus,  who  says  further,  p.  69  :  "  San  Sebastian  is  a  hacienda  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Nasas  river,  and  about  35  miles  from  Mapimi.  The  Nasas  is  here 
quite  a  deep  and  respectable  stream,  while  further  down  it  becomes  flat,  and 
disappears  sometimes  entirely  in  the  sand.  It  comes  about  150  leagues  from  the 
western  part  of  the  State  of  Durango,  from  the  so-called  Sianori  mountains.  .  . 
The  Nasas  is  the  Nile  of  the  Bolson  de  Mapimi ;  the  wide  and  level  country 
along  the  river  is  yearly  inundated  by  its  rising,  and  owes  to  that  circumstance 
its  great  fertility." 

On  crossing  Rio  Nasas,  or  at  a  point  on  his  road  in  that  vicinity,  Pike 
passes  from  the  present  State  of  Durango  into  that  of  Coahuila  ;  but  we  have  no 
mileage  for  the  13th.  He  never  leaves  Coahuila  till  he  enters  the  Texas  of  his 
day,  close  to  present  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  Tex.  He  never  touches  Nuevo 
Leon  at  any  point. 


APACHES   IN   IRONS— A   NIGHT   MARCH.  679 

Ranche,"  we  soon  had  out  a  number  of  boys,  who  brought 
in  the  horse  and  all  his  different  equipments,  which  were 
scattered  on  the  route.  This  certainly  was  a  strong  proof 
of  their  honesty,  and  did  not  go  unrewarded.  In  the 
evening  we  gave  them  a  ball  on  the  green,  according  to 
custom.  We  here  learned  that  one  peck  of  corn,  with 
three  pounds  of  meat  per  week,  was  the  allowance  given  a 
grown  person. 

May  i^th.  Did  not  march  until  half  past  four  o'clock 
[p.  m.].  About  nine  o'clock  [a.  m.]  an  officer  arrived  from 
St.  Rosa  "  with  24  men,  with  two  Appachcs  in  irons.  They 
were  noble-looking  fellows,  of  large  stature,  and  appeared 
by  no  means  cast  down  by  their  misfortunes,  although  they 
knew  their  fate  was  transportation  beyond  the  sea,  never 
more  to  see  their  friends  and  relations. 

Knowing  as  I  did  the  intention  of  the  Spaniards  toward 
those  people,  I  would  have  liberated  them  if  in  my  power. 
I  went  near  them,  gave  them  to  understand  we  were  friends, 
and  conveyed  to  them  some  articles  which  would  be  of 
service  if  chance  offered. 

This  day  the  thermometer  stood  at  30°  Raumauer 
[Reaumur],  99>4°  Fahrenheit.  The  dust  and  drought  of 
the  road  obliged  us  to  march  in  the  night,  when  we  came 
15  miles  and  encamped  without  water.  Indeed,  this  road 
which  the  general  obliged  us  to  take  is  almost  impassable 
at  this  season  for  want  of  water,  whilst  the  other  is  plen- 
tifully supplied. 

May  isth.  Marched  early  and  came  on  five  miles,  when 
we  arrived  at  a  pit  dug  in  a  hollow,  which  afforded  a  small 

'*  El  Rancho  de  San  Antonio,  already  indicated  as  on  the  Rio  Nasa^,  Init 
exact  location  in  question.  I  cannot  find  the  name  on  any  modern  ma]).  It 
does  not  seem  to  be  the  same  place  as  the  San  Sebastian  mentioned  by  Wis- 
lizenus.  But  the  general  locality  is  near  the  present  interstate  boundary  of 
Coahuila  and  Durango,  not  far  from  the  place  where  the  two  railroads  cross 
each  other,  known  as  El  Torreon  (The  Tower). 

"  Santa  Rosa,  one  of  the  principal  Coahuilan  towns,  about  half-w.iy  between 
Monclova  and  Presidio  del  Uio  Grande,  on  waters  of  the  Upper  Rio  S.abinas, 
and  on  the  road  which  General  Wool  took  during  the  invasion  of  Mexico. 


680  WATER  ONLY   IN   WELLS. 

quantity  of  water  for  ourselves  and  beasts.""  Here  we  were 
obliged  to  remain  all  day  in  order  to  travel  in  the  night,  as 
our  beasts  could  enjoy  the  benefit  of  water.  Left  at  half 
past  five  o'clock  and  came  on  15  miles  by  eleven  o'clock, 
when  we  encamped  without  water  or  food  for  our  beasts. 
Passed  a  miserable  burnt-up  soil.     Distance  20  miles. 

May  i6th.  Marched  two  miles  and  arrived  at  a  wretched 
habitation  [El  Pozo  ?],  where  we  drew  water  from  a  well  for 
all  the  beasts.  Marched  in  the  evening  and  made  15  miles 
further  \sic\.  The  right-hand  road  we  left  on  this  side  of 
Maupeme  [Mapimi],  and  joined  it  about  four  miles  further. 
Distance  15  \sic\  miles." 

'"See  Pike's  map,  place  legended  "  Well  of  Putrid  Water." 
"  The  text  is  contradictory  concerning  mileage,  and  ambiguous  in  the  matter  of 
the  road  which  came  in.  The  place  whence  water  was  drawn  is  that  legended 
"  Well  of  Mineral  Water  "  on  Pike's  map.  I  am  not  sure  that  this  is  El  Pozo 
of  various  maps  and  itineraries  Ijefore  me,  called  "  Pozzo  "  on  the  most  modern 
ones ;  but  am  inclined  to  think  it  is.  Pozo  is  a  well-known  place  where  the 
railroad  now  crosses  a  highway,  and  whence  there  is  a  regular  road  S.  W.  to 
Alamos  de  Parras,  and  another  S.  E.  to  Parras  itself.  Under  date  of  M.iy  13th, 
1847,  Wislizenus  has,  Mem.  p.  71  :  "  We  travelled  to-day  25  miles  from  San 
Juan  to  el  Pozo.  The  road  was  more  gravelly  than  sandy,  at  first  quite  level, 
afterwards  slightly  ascending.  A  few  miles  to  our  right  a  steep  mountain  chain 
was  running  parallel  with  our  road  ;  to  the  left  rose  more  distant  mountains. 
.  .  .  About  half  way  we  passed  by  a  deserted  rancho,  '  Rufugio,'  with  a  well. 
Near  El  Pozo  the  valley  becomes  narrower."  Dr.  W.  describes  a  fight  with 
Lipan  Indians  which  had  occurred  at  Pozo  two  days  before,  and  continues,  p. 
72  :  "  El  Pozo  (the  well)  is  a  liacienda,  belonging  to  Don  Manuel  de  Ibarra, 
and  consists  of  but  one  large  building,  in  which  many  families  live.  The  jilace 
is  distinguished  for  its  ingenious  water-works.  It  consists  of  a  deep  and  very 
spacious  well,  from  which  the  water  is  drawn  by  mule  power  in  the  following 
way  :  Over  a  large  wheel  in  the  upper  part  of  the  well  a  strong  and  broad  liand 
of  leather  is  stretched,  moving  around  with  the  wheel  ;  to  the  band,  in  regular 
distances,  many  buckets  of  leather  are  attached,  which,  by  the  equal  circular 
motion  of  the  wheel  and  the  band,  are  descending  on  one  side  of  the  well,  and 
fill  themselves  with  water,  while  they  are  drawn  up  on  the  other  side,  and,  emp- 
tying their  water  into  a  basin,  return  again  to  the  well.  To  receive  the  drawn 
water,  two  large  basins  of  stone,  about  40  feet  wide  and  100  feet  long,  have  been 
made,  and  on  the  outside  of  the  basins  runs  a  long  line  of  troughs,  all  of  stone, 
for  the  watering  of  the  animals.  .  .  .  The  same  Indians  which  our  men  fought 
here,  the  Lipans,  used  to  frequent  this  well  very  freely,  .and  carried  their  impu- 
dence even  so  far  that  they  notified  the  Mexicans  at  what  time  they  wanted  to 


EL   POZO   TO   VICINITY  OF  PARRAS.  68 1 

Sunday,  May  ijth.  Marched  ;  about  seven  o'clock  came 
in  sight  of  Paras  [Parras],  which  we  left  on  the  right  and 
halted  at  the  Hacienda  of  St.  Lorenzo,  a  short  league  to  the 
north  of  said  village.^''     At  the  Hacienda  of  St.  Lorenzo  was 

have  the  basins  full,  and  the  Mexicans  did  not  dare  to  disobey.  Although  the 
idea  of  this  water-wheel  is  by  no  means  a  new  one,  it  is  certainly  very  simply 
and  well  executed,  and  the  more  gratifying  to  the  traveller,  as  this  is  the  only 
watering  ])lace  between  San  Juan  and  Parras,  a  distance  of  about  50  miles." 

"  No  mileage  for  the  lytli ;  but  Paras  is  a  notable  place,  easily  discovered  on 
ordinary  maps.  Sp.  parras  means  means  grapevines,  especially  such  as  are 
trained  on  a  trellis,  and  various  vineyards  have  given  geographical  names  in 
Mexico,  as  Laguna  de  Parras,  Alamo  de  Parras,  etc.  The  latter  is  a  phrase 
coming  near  what  is  meant  by  our  traditional  "  vine  and  fig-tree  "  ;  it  now  desig- 
nates a  place  further  W.,  not  to  be  mistaken  for  Parras  itself.  "  Paras"  and 
the  .San  Lorenzo  hacienda  above  said  are  both  marked  on  Pike's  map  ;  the  latter 
must  not  be  confused  with  present  town  of  San  Lorenzo  on  Rio  Nasas,  much 
further  W.  The  niajiis  entirely  out  of  drawing  in  these  parts,  but  not  irrecog- 
nizaljly,  and  we  can  make  the  requisite  adjustments.  In  particular,  Laguna  de 
Parras  is  put  down  over  100  m.  from  its  true  position,  and  the  course  of  its 
feeder  (Rio  Guanabal)  is  still  further  out  of  the  way.  His  route  passed  near 
this  laguna,  between  it  and  Laguna  del  Muerto.  We  must  not  forget  that  he 
was  traveling  under  compulsion,  propulsion,  and  perpetual  irritation — circum- 
stances unfavorable  to  the  accuracy  of  such  notes  as  he  could  take  by  stealth 
and  afterward  supplement  from  memory,  and  under  which  he  could  not  be 
expected  to  improve  Humboldt's  map  ! 

Some  extracts  from  Dr.  Wislizenus,  Mem.  pp.  72,  73,  will  give  a  better  idea 
of  Parras  than  Pike's  glimpse  affords  ;  "  Mny  14  [1847].  We  left  [I'ozo]  this 
morning  for  Panas,  in  the  .State  of  Co.ahuila.  .  .  .  Our  road  ran  ]iarallel  with 
a  near  mountain  chain  on  the  right,  and  was  mostly  ascending.  In  the  latter 
part  of  our  march  we  saw  from  a  hill  Parras,  at  the  foot  of  the  same  chain, 
which  here  makes  a  bend  towards  southeast.  The  first  sight  of  the  town 
reminded  me  of  el  Paso,  on  account  of  the  great  many  gardens  and  vineyards 
that  surround  it.  Entering  the  town,  I  was  struck  with  the  luxuriant  growth  of 
pomegranates,  figs,  and  fruits  of  all  sorts,  and  with  the  enormous  height  and 
circumference  of  the  common  opuntias  and  agaves,  which  I  had  already  seen  in 
the  State  of  Chihuahua,  but  much  smaller.  The  opuntias  had  trunks  of  one  foot 
in  diameter,  and  the  agave  americana  grew  to  the  height  of  from  10  to  15  feet, 
making  excellent  hedges.  The  town  itself  was  much  handsomer  th.an  I  had  ex- 
pected. It  has  some  fine  streets,  with  old  substantial  buildings,  a  large  '  plaza,' 
and  a  general  appearance  of  wealth  and  comfort.  We  encamped  in  the  Ala- 
meda, a  beautiful  public  walk,  shaded  with  cotton  trees  and  provided  with  seats 
of  repose.  Early  in  the  morning  a  concert  of  thousands  of  birds,  many  mock- 
ingbirds among  them,  that  live  here  quite  undisturbed,  awoke  us  from  our 
slumber.     These  Alamedas,  fashionable  in  all  the  Mexican  cities,  do  honor  to 


682  ON   HEADWATERS   OF   RIO   SAN  JUAN. 

a  young  priest,  who  was  extremely  anxious  for  a  change  of 
government,  and  came  to  our  beds  and  conversed  for  hours 
on  the  subject. 

May  1 8th.  Marched  early  and  came  through  a  mountain- 
ous tract  of  country,  well  watered,  with  houses  situated  here 
and  there  amongst  the  rocks.  Joined  the  main  road  at  a 
Hacienda  of  [Cienega  Grande],  belonging  to  the  Marquis 
de  San  Miquel  [Miguel] ;  good  gardens  and  fruit ;  also  a 
fine  stream."  The  mules  did  not  arrive  until  late  at  night, 
when  it  had  commenced  raining. 

May  igtk.     Did  not  march  until  three  o'clock,  the  captain 

the  general  taste  of  the  Mexicans  for  flowers,  gardens,  and  natural  embellish- 
ments. To  prevent  any  injury  to  the  trees  our  horses  were  kept  outside  tlie 
Alameda.  Parras  was  probably  built  towards  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury, and  received  its  name  from  its  vine,  parra  meaning  vine-branch.  The  cul- 
tivation of  the  vine  is  at  present  a  principal  object  of  industry  in  Parras.  The 
vineyards  are  mostly  on  tlie  hilly  slopes  of  the  limestone  mountains  west  of  town. 
They  produce  a  white  and  a  red  wine,  I)oth  of  very  pleasant  taste,  resembling 
somewhat  the  wine  of  el  Paso,  but  more  heating  and  stronger.  .  .  .  We  rested 
in  Parras  two  days,  and  left  it  on  the  morning  of  Mny  17,  on  our  road  to  Saltillo. 
From  Parras  we  marched  about  five  miles  in  an  eastern  direction,  through  a 
a  plain,  to  San  Lorenzo,  or,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  Hacjauia  de  Alxijo,  a 
large,  splendid  hacienda,  belonging  to  the  above  mentioned  Don  Manuel  de 
Ibarra.  The  road  from  el  Pozo  leads  directly  to  this  place  ;  by  going  to  Parras, 
several  leagues  are  lost."  This  "  lower  hacienda"  is  the  one  which  Pike  names 
aljove,  and  where  he  camps  to-night. 

^'  No  distance  or  direction  given,  and  no  place  named^but  we  can  discover 
Pike  by  extraneous  means.  Dr.  Wislizenus  says,  p.  73  :  "  From  here  [San 
Lorenzo]  the  road  was  winding  over  a  hilly  and  rocky  country,  till  we  arrived  in 
Cii'nega  Grande,  a  hacienda  of  Don  Key  de  Guerrero,  (25  miles  from  Parras.) " 
This  is  no  doubt  the  place  Pike  reaches,  on  his  way  to  Patos.  The  unnamed 
hacienda  of  the  text  is  so  marked  on  his  map,  on  the  above  "  fine  stream." 
This  creek  requires  attention.  Pike  lays  it  down  as  one  of  the  headwaters  of 
Rio  Tigre,  also  called  Rio  San  Francisco  del  Tigre,  which  he  mistakes  it  to  be, 
and  so  runs  it  off  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  about  where  Tiger  r.  does  in  fact 
empty.  But  Pike  was  never  on  any  tributary  of  Tiger  r. — never  in  that  water- 
shed at  all — never  in  Nuevo  Leon.  His  "  fine  stre.am  "  is  a  headwater  of  that 
river  which  falls  into  the  Rio  Grande  by  Ringgold  Barracks,  and  whose  two 
main  forks  are  known  as  Rio  San  Juan  and  Rio  Salinas,  Saltillo,  once  known 
as  Leona  Victoria,  and  present  capital  of  Coahuila,  is  on  a  branch  of  the  Salinas 
(Rio  Mcteros) ;  and  Monterey,  present  capital  of  Nuevo  Leon,  is  on  a  branch  of 
the  .San  Juan. 


PATOS— FLORIDA.  683 

not  being  very  well.  He  here  determined  to  take  the  main 
road,  notwithstanding  the  orders  of  General  Salcedo.  Came 
on  10  miles  [vicinity  of  Rancho  Nuevo  and  Castafluela "']. 
Met  a  deserter  from  Captain  [Francis]  Johnston's  company 
[then  probably  of  the  2d  Infantry].  He  returned,  came  to 
camp,  and  begged  me  to  take  him  back  to  his  company  ; 
but  I  would  not  give  any  encouragement  to  the  scoundrel — 
only  a  little  change,  as  he  was  without  a  farthing. 

May  20th.  Came  to  the  Hacienda  of  Pattos  [Patos]  by 
nine  o'clock.  This  is  a  handsome  place,  where  the  Marquis 
De  San  Miquel  [Miguel]  frequently  spends  his  summers,  the 
distance  enabling  him  to  come  from  [the  City  of]  Mexico  in 
his  coach  in  10  days.  Here  we  met  the  Mexican  post-rider 
going  to  Chewawa  [Chihuahua].  Don  Hymie  [Hymen], 
who  had  left  us  at  Paras  [Parras],  joined  in  a  coach  and  six, 
in  which  we  came  out  to  a  little  settlement  called  the 
Florida,  one  league  from  Pattos,  due  north.  Distance  18 
miles." 

^  Before  coming  to  Patos  and  Florida,  we  will  see  what  Wislizenns  says,  Mem. 
p.  73  :  "  May  18.  Through  a  wide  valley,  with  mountains  to  the  north  and 
south,  we  went  to-day  (18  miles)  to  Rancho  Nuevo,  and  encamped  about  one 
mile  southeast  of  it,  in  a  valley.  .  .  .  Some  miles  from  our  camp,  in  a  corner, 
amidst  mountains,  lies  Castanucla,  an  old  but  small  town,  from  which  a  shorter 
but  very  rough  ro.ad  leads  over  the  mountains  to  Parras.  A  line  creek  runs  by 
it,  descending  from  the  southwest  mountains  and  turning  towards  the  northeast." 
This  seems  to  be  about  the  place  to  which  Pike  was  brought  on  the  igth. 

ss ' '  Pattos  "  is  marked  ' '  Hacienda  Poloss  "  on  Pike's  map,  where  it  is  set  down 
about  a  day's  journey  due  W.  of  "  Saltello  "  ;  "  Florida  "  is  also  marked,  nearly 
as  far  off  to  the  N.  E.  But  these  are  mere  crudities  of  engraving ;  any  good 
modern  map  will  show  Patos,  about  35  m.  W.  by  S.  from  Saltillo,  and  about  16 
m.  S.  by  W.  from  San  Antonio  de  Jaral  ;  which  latter  is  12  m.  S.  E.  of  a  place 
on  the  railroad  now  called  Pastora.  As  to  Patos  and  its  vicinity  we  will  hear 
from  Dr.  Wislizenus,  Mem.  p.  74  :  "  May  ig.  Marched  25  miles  [from  Rancho 
Nuevo]  to  Vequeria,  a  small  place  on  a  creek  of  the  same  name.  The  very 
tortuous  road  led  over  a  hilly  and  broken  country.  From  one  of  the  hills  we 
perceived,  towards  the  E.  N.  E.,  the  distant  mountains  of  Saltillo.  About  live 
miles  from  Vequeria  we  passed  a  creek  with  very  clear  water,  the  San  Antonio, 
which  unites  below,  near /"a/w,  with  the  Vequeria  creek.  .  .  .  Northeast  from 
Vequeria  is  an  opening  in  the  surrounding  mountains,  through  which  the  moun- 
tain chain  of  Saltillo  appears  again.  The  route  through  this  pass  is  the  shortest 
and  most  direct  from  Saltillo,  but  with  wagons  one  has  to  take  a  southeastern 


684  NORTHWARD   DOWN   THE   SAN   ANTONIO. 

The  Hacienda  of  Pattos  was  a  square  inclosure  of  about 
300  feet,  the  building  being  one  story  high,  but  some  of  the 
apartments  were  elegantly  furnished.  .In  the  center  of  the 
square  was  a  jet  d'eau,  which  cast  forth  water  from  eight 
spouts,  extended  from  a  colossean  female  form.  From  this 
fountain  all  the  neighboring  inhabitants  got  their  supply  of 
water.  The  marquis  had  likewise  a  very  handsome  church, 
which,  with  its  ornaments,  cost  him  at  least  $20,000;  to  offi- 
ciate in  which,  he  maintained  a  little  stlfi  superstitious  priest. 
In  the  rear  of  the  palace,  for  so  it  might  be  called,  was  a 
fish-pond,  in  which  were  immense  numbers  of  fine  fish.  The 
population  of  Florida  is  about  2,000  souls.  This  was  our 
nearest  point  to  the  city  of  Mexico. 

Majf  2ist.  Marched  down  the  [San  Antonio]  water-course 
over  a  rough  and  stony  road  about  10  miles,  when  we  left  it 
on  the  right  [crossed  it  from  E.  to  W.],  and  came  on  eight 
miles  further  to  a  horse-range  of  the  marquis',  where  he  had 
four  of  his  soldiers  as  a  guarda  caballo  [herders].  Halted 
at  half  past  nine  o'clock."  At  this  place  we  had  a  spring 
of  bad  water. 

May  22d.  Marched  [north]  at  three  o'clock;  came  on 
16  miles  to  a  small  shed,  and  in  the  afternoon  to  laRancho, 
eight  miles  to  the  left  of  the  main  road,  near  the  foot  of 

course  to  avoid  the  mountains.  About  one  mile  from  Vequeria,  in  the  pass 
leading  to  Saltillo,  lies  Patos,  a  small  town."  The  name  of  the  place  Dr.  W. 
calls  "  Vequeria  "  is  preferably  spelled  Vaqueria  ;  the  word  means  simply  stock- 
farm  or  cattle-ranch  ;  vaqueros  are  the  cowboys  of  such  places,  whom  I  used  to 
hear  called  "  buckeros  "  when  I  was  in  New  Mexico,  perhaps  by  unconscious 
confusing  of  "  vaqueros  "  with  the  bucking  bronchos  they  rode. 

Here  we  regret  to  take  leave  of  our  accomplished  fellow-traveler,  who  has 
set  up  finger-posts  on  Pike's  route  all  the  way  from  El  Paso  to  Patos.  Dr.  Wis- 
lizenus  keeps  on  eastward  to  meet  General  Wool's  forces  at  Buena  Vista  and 
Saltillo.  Pike  has  turned  northward,  down  the  San  Antonio  cr.,  and  camps  at 
Florida,  less  than  3  m.  N.  of  Patos,  in  the  direction  of  ,San  Antonio  de  Jaral. 

'*  Route  of  the  2lst  northward,  past  if  not  through  San  Antonio  de  Jaral, 
down  the  right  side  of  San  Antonio  cr. ,  and  across  this  from  E.  to  W. ;  thence 
continuing  northward  to  some  point  probably  on  the  present  railroad  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  station  now  known  .as  Sauceda  (Willows).  Pike's  map  shows 
the  crossing,  at  a  point  below  certain  forks  he  delineates,  probably  not  far  from 
half-way  between  Sauceda  and  Pastora. 


PASS   OF    THREE    KIVEKS    MOUNTAIN.  68$ 

the  mountain,  where  was  a  pond  of  water,  but  no  houses. 
Some  Spanish  soldiers  were  here.  We  left  Pattos  mountain 
on  our  left  and  right,  but  here  there  was  a  cross  mountain 
[El  Monte  de  los  Tres  Rios]  over  which  we  were  to  pass  in 
the  morning." 

The  marquis  maintains  1,500  troops  to  protect  his  vassals 
and  property  from  the  savages.  They  are  all  cavalry,  as 
well  dressed  and  armed  as  the  king's,  but  are  treated  by 
the  king's  troops  as  if  vastly  inferior. 

May  2jd.  Marched  early  and  came  to  a  spring  in  the 
mountain."" 

Sunday,  May  2^th.  Marched  at  an  early  hour  and  passed 
through  [El  Paso  de  los  Tres  Rios  in]  the  mountains,  where 
there  was  scarcely  any  road,  called  the  Mountain  of  the  Three 
Rivers.  At  the  13th  mile  joined  the  main  road,  which  we 
had  left  to  our  right  on  the  22d  instant,  and  in  one  hour 
after  came  to  the  main  Mexican  road  from  the  eastern 
provinces  ;  thence  northwest  to  the  Rancho,  nine  miles 
from  Montelovez.  whence  the  captain  sent  in  an  express  to 
give  notice  of  our  approach."" 

"  Route  N. ,  thus  bearing  off  from  the  river,  main  road,  and  line  of  present 
railroad,  all  of  which  nm  along  together  about  N.  N.  E.;  camp  at  or  near  no 
named  place,  but  about  8  m.  due  W.  of  a  place  on  the  railroad  (Trevino  or 
Venadito)  where  a  branch  turns  off  to  go  to  Monterey.  "La  Rancho"  of 
the  text,  better  written  El  Rancho,  or  simply  ranch,  is  beyond  the  place 
marked  on  the  map  as  an  Indian  village  by  the  name  of  "  Rambo  "—unless  this 
is  the  ranch  itself,  a  little  misplaced. 

^  Route  .about  N.,  15-20  m.  to  the  foot  of  the  pass  in  the  cross  mountain,  at 
the  place  marked  "  Rivera  "  on  Pike's  map. 

3'  On  making  Three  Rivers  Pass  in  the  morning,  Pike  goes  over  the  "  cross 
mountain  "  which  forms  the  divide  between  the  waters  of  the  San  Juan  and 
Salinas  basin,  and  comes  upon  the  water-shed  of  Rio  Sabinas  (which  river  he 
will  cross  to  reach  the  Rio  Grande).  The  main  road  which  he  strikes  at  the 
13th  mile  is  also  the  railroad  line,  and  he  strikes  them  both  at  or  near  Rajan, 
5  m.  above  Joya,  where  the  main  road  now  comes  in  from  points  eastward. 
We  have  no  mileage  for  the  24th,  but  it  was  a  good  day's  journey  to  get  only  9 
m.  short  of  Montelovez  (Monclova). 

As  several  of  Pike's  daily  mileages  are  missing,  we  cannot  say  exactly  how 
many  miles  he  made  it  out  to  be  from  the  Mapimi  locality  to  Montelovez.  If 
we  average  up  the  missing  ones  with  the  rest  uf  tlie  14  days,  it  makes  15  m.  a 


686       MONCLOVA — LIEUTENANT   ADAMS — HERMANOS. 

May  2§tJi.  In  the  afternoon  Lieutenant  Adams,  com- 
mandant of  the  company  of  Montelovez,  arrived  in  a  coach 
and  six  to  escort  us  to  town,  where  we  arrived  about 
five  o'clock.  In  the  evening  visited  Captain  de  Ferara 
[qu.:  Don  Juan  Joaquin  de  Ferrero?],  commandant  of  the 
troops  of  Cogquilla,  and  inspector  of  the  five  provinces. 

Lieutenant  Adams,  who  commanded  this  place,  was  the 
son  of  an  Irish  engineer  in  the  service  of  Spain.  He  had 
married  a  rich  girl  of  the  Passo  del  Norte,  and  they  lived 
here  in  elegance  and  style,  for  the  country.  We  put  up  at 
his  quarters  and  were  very  hospitably  entertained. 

May  26th.  Made  preparations  for  marching  the  next 
day.  I  arose  early,  before  any  of  our  people  were  up,  and 
walked  nearly  round  the  town  ;  and  from  the  hill  took  a 
small  survey,  with  my  pencil  and  a  pocket  compass  which  I 
always  carried  with  me.  Returned  and  found  them  at 
breakfast,  they  having  sent  three  or  four  of  my  men  to 
search  for  me.  The  Spanish  troops  at  this  place  were 
remarkably  polite,  always  fronting  and  saluting  when  I 
passed.  This  I  attributed  to  their  commandant.  Lieuten- 
ant Adams. 

May  2yth.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  after  taking  an 
affectionate  leave  of  Don  Hymen,  and  at  half  past  twelve 
arrived  at  the  Hacienda  of  Don  Melcher  [Michon  on  the 
map],  situated  on  the  same  stream  of  Montelovez." 

Don  Melcher  was  a  man  of  very  large  fortune,  polite, 
generous,  and  friendly.  He  had  in  his  service  a  man  who 
had  deserted  from  Captain  Lockwood's"  company,  first  regi- 

day,  or  a  total  of  210  ni.  Those  who  are  better  informed  than  myself  concern- 
ing the  kind  of  country  passed  over  can  judge  how  near  right  these  figures  may 
be.  It  seems  to  me  rather  scant  measure  for  the  most  direct  route  by  which 
the  Bolson  could  have  been  flanked  by  anything  like  the  curve  the  railroad 
now  takes.  Pike  certainly  never  made  such  a  fishhook-shaped  trail  as  that 
delineated  on  his  map,  if  he  only  went  210  m. 

■*"  Route  N.,  down  E.  bank  of  the  river  on  which  Monclova  is  situated,  along 
the  main  road  and  present  railroad.  No  mileage  ;  but  5^  hours  on  a  road 
should  make  16-18  m.,  and  set  Pike  near  Hermanos,  at  the  place  Don  Melcher 
or  Michon  had  his  real  estate. 

^'  iJenjamin  Lockwood  of  Ohio  had  been  an  ensign  in  the  levies  of  1791  when 


ENCINAS — GRIFFITH,  A  DESERTER.  68/ 

merit  of  infantry,  by  the  name  of  Pratt.  From  this  man  he 
had  acquired  a  considerable  quantity  of  crude  indigested 
information  relative  to  the  United  States,  and  when  he  met 
with  us  his  thirst  after  knowledge  of  our  laws  and  institu- 
tions appeared  to  be  insatiable.  He  caused  a  fine  large 
sheep  to  be  killed  and  presented  to  my  men. 

May  28tli.  Marched  early  and  arrived  at  Encina  Haci- 
enda" at  ten  o'clock.  This  place  was  owned  by  Don  Barego 
[Borages  on  the  map]. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  Hacienda  of  Encina,  I  found  a 
youth  of  1 8  sitting  in  the  house  quite  genteelly  dressed, 
whom  I  immediately  recognized  from  his  physiognomy  to 
be  an  American,  and  entered  into  conversation  with  him. 
He  expressed  great  satisfaction  at  meeting  a  countryman, 
and  we  had  a  great  deal  of  conversation.  He  sat  at  a  table 
with  us  and  partook  of  a  cold  collation  of  fruits  and  con. 
fectionery  ;  but  I  was  much  surprised  to  learn,  shortly  after 
we  quit  the  table,  that  he  was  a  deserter  from  our  army  ; 
on  which  I  questioned  him,  and  he  replied  that  his  name 
was  Griffith  ;  he  had  enlisted  in  Philadelphia,  arrived  at 
New  Orleans,  and  deserted  as  soon  as  possible  ;  the  Span- 
iards had  treated  him  much  better  than  his  own  countrymen, 
and  he  should  never  return.  I  was  extremely  astonished  at 
his  insolence,  and  mortified  that  I  should  have  been  be- 
trayed into  any  polite  conduct  toward  the  scoundrel.  I  told 
him  that  it  was  astonishing  he  should  have  had  the  imperti- 
nence to  address  himself  to  me,  knowing  that  I  was  an 
American  officer.  He  muttered  something  about  being  in 
a  country  where  he  was  protected,  etc.;  on  which  I  told 
him  that  if  he  again    opened    his   mouth  to    me,  I  would 

he  was  appointed  a  lieutenant  of  Infantry,  Mar.  7th,  1792,  and  arranged  to  the 
4th  sub-Legion,  Sept.  4th  of  that  year  ;  he  was  attached  to  the  4th  Infantry, 
Nov.  1st,  1796,  made  a  captain  July  loth,  1797,  transferred  to  the  2d  Infantry 
Apr.  1st,  1802,  and  to  the  1st  Infantry  Sept.  2d  of  that  year  ;  and  died  July 
2gth,  1807. 

''*  The  present  town  of  Encinas  (The  Oaks)  is  on  the  road,  20  in.  from  Her- 
manos,  and  presumably  at  or  near  the  site  of  the  old  Barego  estate.  Pike  is 
fairly  in  the  valley  of  Kio  Sabinas. 


688  PROGRESS   IN   THE   VALLEY   OF   THE   SABINE. 

instantly  chastise  him,  notwithstanding  his  supposed  pro- 
tection. He  was  silent ;  I  called  up  one  of  my  soldiers 
and  told  him  in  his  hearing,  that  if  he  attempted  to  mix 
with  them  to  turn  him  out  of  company  ;  which  they  exe- 
cuted by  leading  him  to  the  door  of  their  room  a  short 
time  after,  when  he  entered  it.  When  dinner  was  nearly 
ready,  I  sent  a  message  to  the  proprietor,  that  we  assumed 
no  right  to  say  whom  he  should  introduce  to  his  table,  but 
that  we  should  think  it  a  great  indignity  offered  to  a  Span- 
ish ofificer  to  attempt  to  set  him  down  at  the  same  board 
with  a  deserter  from  their  army  ;  and  that  if  the  man  who 
was  at  the  table  in  the  morning  were  to  make  his  appear- 
ance again,  we  should  decline  to  eat  at  it.  He  replied  that 
it  was  an  accident  which  had  produced  the  event  of  the 
morning;  that  he  was  sorry  our  feelings  had  been  injured, 
and  that  he  would  take  care  he  [Griffith]  did  not  appear 
again  whilst  we  were  there. 

Our  good  friend  Don  Melcher  here  overtook  us,  and 
passed  the  evening  with  us. 

This  day  we  passed  the  last  mountains,  and  again  entered 
the  great  Mississippi  valley,  it  being  six  months  and  13  days 
since  we  first  came  in  sight  of  them.     Distance  20  miles. 

May  2<)th.  Marched  at  seven  o'clock  and  came  to  the 
Millada  river  and  a  Rancho.     [Distance  20  miles."] 

May  jot h.  Marched  at  five  o'clock  and  arrived  at  the 
Sabine  river  at  eight ;  forded  it.  Marched  in  the  evening 
at  four  o'clock,  at  ten  encamped  at  the  second  ridge  with- 
out water.     Distance  27  miles." 

*'  Millada  r.  of  Tike  is  the  main  fork  of  Sabinas  r.,  and  the  one  whose  upper 
waters  he  left  at  Hermanos.  Leaving  it  there,  the  road  through  Encinas  to 
Alamo  cuts  off  a  bend  of  the  river  which  the  railroad  now  meanders  by  way  of 
Baroteran,  Aura,  Obeya,  and  so  on.  The  ranch  was  at  present  site  of  Alamo, 
a  well-known  crossing  where  several  roads  still  concenter,  lo  or  12  m.  above 
the  forks.  It  used  to  be  called  Alameda  Arriba  or,  as  we  should  say,  "  Upper 
Cottonwoods " ;  whence  I  imagine  that  Pike  got  his  name  "Millada."  This 
river  flowed  to  his  right  as  he  faced  N. ;  the  letter  "  w  "  of  the  word  "  which  " 
is  engraved  on  the  map  at  jirecisely  the  point  he  crossed  this  stream  :  see  next 
note. 

"  The  main  stream  of  Sabinas  r.  is  crossed  at  the  place  now  called  Potrillo, 


NEARING  THE  PRESIDIO  GRANDE.  689 

Sunday,  May  jis(.  Marched  early  and  at  nine  o'clock 
arrived  at  a  Rancho  on  fine  running  water  ;  course  east  and 
west.  Marched  eight  miles  further  to  a  point  of  woods,  and 
encamped.     No  water.     Distance  23  miles." 

and  also  Juarez,  10  m.  from  Alamo.  This  sets  Pike  at  a  point  17  m.  further  on 
a  bee  line  for  the  Presidio  Grande.  His  mapping  of  the  "  Millada "  and 
Sabinas  rivers  is  faulty  to  the  last  degree  :  see  the  map  on  this  point,  i.  The 
Millada  (on  which  the  letter  "  w  "  is  engraved)  should  turn  above  that  point  and 
connect  with  the  stream  on  which  "  Montelovez "  is  situated.  2.  The  main 
Sabinas  (identihable  on  the  map  by  "  A  Kan  "  engraved  alongside  Pike's  trail) 
should  have  been  carried  clear  up  N.  W.,  100  m.  or  more.  3.  The  great  river 
which  Pike  fetches  into  the  Rio  Grande  at  Presidio  Grande,  and  which  he  runs 
down  to  this  point  from  "  Montelovez,"  does  not  exist.  It  is  an  imaginary 
river,  compounded  of  about  equal  parts  of  upper  portions  of  the  two  forks  of 
the  Sabinas,  cut  off  from  their  proper  connections  lower  down,  and  run  into  the 
Rio  Grande  about  100  m.  too  high  up.  The  rest  of  the  river  (E.  of  Pike's  trail) 
is  connected  with  the  Rio  Grande  about  right — that  is  to  say,  below  Laredo. 
Observe  that  Pike  says  nothing  about  crossing  the  mouth  of  any  such  river  as 
his  map  shows  just  where  his  trail  comes  to  the  Rio  Grande.  It  is  a  sheer 
blunder,  which  has  baffled  many  a  person  who  naturally  supposed  that  Pike 
fetched  up  at  the  mouth  of  Sabinas  r. ,  some  40  m.  below  Laredo,  but  never 
could  see  how  he  got  there,  or  how  he  got  thence  to  San  Antonio,  or  what  in  the 
name  of  geography  the  two  rivers  he  crossed  were  anyhow.  In  fine,  this  affair 
of  the  Sabinas  r.  befogged  the  whole  trail  for  several  hundred  miles,  both  in 
Mexico  and  in  Texas.  For  my  own  part,  I  first  tried  to  bring  Pike  to  the  Rio 
Grande  at  the  mouth  of  Sabinas  r.,  and  very  soon  lost  him  in  Nuevo  Leon — to 
say  nothing  of  the  impossibility  of  trailing  him  thence  to  San  Antonio.  Then 
I  tried  the  roads  to  Laredo,  observing  that  this  would  do  pretty  well  for  the 
Texan  side  ;  but  again  I  lost  him  in  Nuevo  Leon.  Though  the  map  itself 
indicated  that  Pike  never  was  in  Nuevo  Leon  (where  General  Salcedo,  in  fact, 
had  no  business  to  send  troops,  as  it  was  out  of  his  jurisdiction),  yet  political 
boundaries  nearly  a  century  old  go  for  little  on  their  face,  and  I  was  almost 
temjjted  to  give  the  puzzle  up.  But  I  thought  that  I  would  try  the  experiment 
of  disregarding  the  map  altogether,  and  trailing  Pike  solely  by  his  itinerary  in  the 
text.  It  was  a  week's  work  to  satisfy  myself  that  he  was  never  over  the  present 
boundary  of  Coahuila  after  he  left  Durango,  and  probably  never  25  m.  on  either 
side  of  the  railroad  from  Mapimi  to  Sabinas  r.  There  he  was  within  two  days 
of  the  Rio  Grande,  heading  straight  for  the  Presidio  Salto  ;  and  a  glance  at  his 
map  showed  me  what  the  trouble  was  with  that  unlucky  river. 

■"  Directly  on  the  main  road  to  Presidio  Salto — the  Presidio  Grande,  or  del 
Rio  Grande,  of  Pike.  The  running  water,  on  which  was  situated  a  ranch, 
was  one  of  the  several  smafi  affluents  of  the  Rio  Grande  which  run  E.  along 
here  on  the  Mexican  side. 


CHAPTER   III. 

ITINERARY,  CONCLUDED  :  THROUGH  TEXAS  TO  NATCHI- 
TOCHES ON  THE  RED  RIVER  OF  LOUISIANA,  JUNE  IST- 
JULY    1ST,    1807. 

>j|VONDAY,  June  ist.  Arrived  at  the  Presidio  Rio 
*■■'*'  Grande  '  at  eight  o'clock.  This  phice  was  the  position 
to  which  our  friend  Barelo  had  been  ordered,  and  which  had 
been  very  highly  spoken  of  to  him  ;  but  he  found  himself 
miserably  mistaken,  for  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty 
we  obtained  anything  to  eat,  which  mortified  him  ex- 
tremely. 

When  at  Chihuahua,  General  Salcedo  had  asked  me  if 
I  had  not  lost  a  man  by  desertion,  to  which  I  replied  in  the 
negative.  He  then  informed  me  that  an  American  had 
arrived  at  the  Presidio  Rio  Grande  in  the  last  year ;  that  he 
had  at  first  confined  him,  but  that  he  was  now  released  and 
practicing  physic ;  and  that  he  wished  me  to  examine  him 
on  my  arrival.  I  therefore  had  him  sent  for ;  the  moment 
he  entered  the  room  I  discovered  he  never  had  received 

'  Pike  is  now  seen  to  have  been  all  the  while  on  the  old  Spanish  trail  from 
Coahuila  into  Texas — for  it  was  the  "old"  trail  of  his  day,  a  century  ago. 
The  place  is  40  m.  below  Eagle  Pass  or  old  Fort  Duncan,  and  90  m.  above 
Laredo  or  old  Fort  Mcintosh.  It  is  thus  the  middle  one  of  three  places  on  the 
river  within  easy  striking  distance  of  San  Antonio,  Tex.  From  each  of  the  three 
roads  still  converge  to  the  latter  point ;  but  this  most  historic  place  on  the  lower 
Rio  Grande  has  in  the  course  of  time  fallen  between  two  stools,  so  to  speak. 
For  now  one  railroad  runs  from  San  Antonio  nearly  S.  to  Laredo,  by  the  way 
of  Pearsall,  Derby,  Cotulla,  Encinal,  Webb,  and  Sanchez,  and  another  conies 
W.  to  Laredo  from  Corpus  Christi  on  the  Gulf ;  while  a  third  railroad  connects 
San  Antonio  with  Eagle  Pass  by  way  of  Castroville,  Salinal,  and  Brackettville 
(Fort  Clark).  The  last  named  one  is  that  which  Pike  kept  so  close  to  on  his 
way  out  of  Mexico  ;  the  one  from  Laredo  runs  in  Nuevo  Leon  to  Monterey  and 
so  on.  Eagle  Pass  is  roundly  500  m.  up  the  Kio  Grande,  by  any  practicable  road, 
but  less  than  half  as  far  from  the  Gulf  in  a  direct  line.     Forty  years  ago  it  had 

Oyo 


THE   STORY   OF   MARTIN   HENDERSON.  69I 

a  liberal  education,  or  been  accustomed  to  polished  society. 
I  told  him  the  reason  I  had  requested  to  see  him,  and  that 
I  had  it  in  my  power  to  serve  him  if  I  found  him  a  charac- 
ter worthy  of  interference. 

He  then  related  the  following  story :  That  his  name 
was  Martin  Henderson ;  that  he  was  born  in  Rock  Bridge 
County,  State  of  Virginia ;  that  he  had  been  brought  up 
a  farmer  ;  but  that,  coming  early  to  the  State  of  Kentucky 
and  to  Tennessee,  he  had  acquired  a  taste  for  frontier  life, 
and  that,  in  the  spring  of  1806,  himself  and  four  companions 
had  left  the  Saline  in  the  District  of  Saint  Genevieve,  Upper 

a  population  of  300,  and  Fort  Duncan,  which  adjoined  the  town,  was  our  upper- 
most military  post  on  the  river.  On  the  other  side  the  Mexicans  had  their 
similar  establishment  at  a  place  called  Piedras  Negras  or  Black  Rocks.  A  fine 
view  of  this  place  is  given  on  one  of  the  engravings  of  the  U.  S.  .md  Mex.  B. 
Survey,  supposed  to  be  bound  opp.  p.  72.  The  Ciudad  Porfirio  Diaz  is  there  or 
thereabouts  now,  and  another  settlement  called  Fuentes  is  in  the  neighborhood; 
but  Fort  Duncan  has  disappeared,  except  from  history.  Fuentes  is  on  a  small 
river  which  falls  in  just  above  ;  higher  up  on  the  same  is  San  Fernando  de 
Rosas,  or  Zaragoza,  a  point  whence  various  roads  radiate.  Laredo  or  Loredo 
is  a  very  old  place,  whose  history  dates  back  to  the  early  Spanish  occupation  of 
the  country.  Emory  writes  that  in  his  time,  say  1850,  it  was  a  decayed  place  of 
600  inhabitants,  having  been  ravaged  by  savage  hordes,  and  being  then  supported 
mainly  by  old  Fort  Mcintosh,  which  was  built  a  mile  above  the  town.  He 
thinks  that  the  countless  herds  of  horses  which  had  been  stampeded  and  stolen 
by  the  Indians  were  the  progenitors  of  the  mustangs  which  roamed  the  plains  of 
Texas  thence  N.  and  E.  Laredo  is  now  a  focal  point  of  roads  from  every 
direction,  including  two  railroads  ;  and  a  place  called  Nuevo  Laredo  is  established 
across  the  river.  At  61  or  62  m.  by  the  road  below  Laredo,  and  thus  opposite 
the  mouth  of  Rio  Sabinas  (which  takes  the  undesirable  name  of  Rio  Salado 
below  its  forks),  a  fortified  trading-post  was  built,  and  called  Bellville.  This 
name  appears  on  maps  of  40  years  ago,  but  has  lapsed,  like  that  of  Redmond's 
Ranch  by  which  it  was  once  known,  and  there  is  nothing  on  the  American  side 
to  show  for  what  would  supposably  be  a  marked  place — the  confluence  of  so 
large  a  river  with  the  Rio  Grande.  But  there  is  a  town  of  Carrizo  a  few  miles 
below,  on  the  Texan  side.  The  Mexican  town  of  Guerro  or  Guerrero  is  located 
on  the  N.  bank  of  Rio  Salado,  4  m.  up  ;  and  3  m.  further  are  the  handsome 
falls,  a  colored  plate  of  which  should  be  found  opp.  p.  65  of  the  Report  last 
named.  Forty  miles  below  this  confluence,  Rio  Alamo,  also  known  .as  Rio 
Alcontre,  falls  in  on  the  Mexican  side,  and  4  m.  up  this  river  is  the  town  of 
Mier.  on  its  S.  bank.  Mier,  or  a  town  of  that  name  in  this  vicinity,  must  be 
an  old  place  ;  Pike  marks  a  Mier  on  the  Texan  side.  The  Mier  of  the  Mexican 
War  liecame  a  celebrated   place,  during   the   Texan   invasion  of   1840,   when 


692  HENDERSON'S  STORY,   CONTINUED. 

Louisiana,  in  order  to  penetrate  through  the  woods  to  the 
province  of  Texas ;  that  his  companions  had  left  him  on 
the  White  [Arkansaw]  river,  and  that  he  had  continued  on  ; 
that  in  swimming  some  western  branch  his  liorse  sunk 
under  him,  and  it  was  with  difificulty  he  made  the  shore 
with  his  gun.  Here  he  waited  two  or  three  days  until  his 
horse  rose,  and  he  then  got  his  saddle-bags ;  but  all  his 
notes  on  the  country,  courses,  etc.,  were  destroyed.  He 
then  proceeded  on  foot  for  a  few  days,  when  he  was  met 
by  30  or  40  Osage  warriors,  who,  on  his  telling  them  he  was 
going  to  the  Spaniards,  were  about  to  kill  him  ;  but  on  his 

a  desperate  fight  occurred  on  its  plaza.  It  was  then  a  town  of  2,000  or  3,000 
inhabitants,  and  had  many  stone  buildings  among  the  straw-thatched  huts.  It 
made  much  history,  and  was  a  point  of  strategic  importance,  being  the  starting- 
place  of  the  shortest  and  most  direct  road  to  Monterey.  Military  operations  on 
the  Rio  Grande  during  the  American  occupation  of  Mier  are  said  by  Emory  to 
have  altered  the  channel  of  the  river,  with  the  result  of  throwing  the  island  of 
Los  Adjuntos  over  to  the  Me.\ican  side,  and  thus  changing  what  had  been  the 
United  States  and  Mexican  boundary.  About  5  m.  further  down  the  Rio 
Grande  stands  Roma,  a  town  on  the  American  side,  notable  as  the  head  of 
ordinary  steamboat  navigation.  Below  this,  at  the  distance  of  16  or  17  m.,  are 
the  adjoining  localities  of  Rio  Grande  City  and  Ringgold  Barracks.  These 
notable  places  are  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  San  Juan  r. ,  on  some  of  whose 
headwaters  Pike  was  found  in  the  country  W.  of  Saltillo.  and  which  is  the  first 
considerable  stream  that  falls  in  on  the  Mexican  side  above  the  Gulf.  The  town 
of  Camargo  is  built  on  its  E.  bank,  about  4  m.  up.  The  original  establishment 
of  Fort  Ringgold  is  old  (for  our  young  history  on  tlie  Rio  Grande) ;  it  was 
a  mean  place  in  1850,  when  Rio  Grande  City  had  a  population  of  about  300,  but 
came  into  prominence  during  the  years  of  the  Boundary  Survey,  when  it  was 
a  base  of  various  operations,  and  a  point  of  observation  :  distance  from  the  sea, 
241  m.  by  the  river;  alt.  521  feet  ;  lat.  26°  22'  27.79"  N.;  long.  98°  46'  32.85" 
W.  (Emory,  /.  c).  All  the  points  here  in  mention,  between  and  including 
Ringgold  Barracks  and  Laredo,  are  in  Texas  or  in  Tamaulipas  ;  for  Nuevo  Leon 
is  cut  off  from  the  Rio  Grande  by  the  Tamaulipan  "  Panhandle"  which  runs 
up  to  Coahuila.  To  return  now  from  our  trip  up  and  down  the  river  to  the 
famous  place  where  we  left  Pike  :  The  name  of  Presidio  Rio  Grande  which 
Pike  uses  is  not  yet  entirely  obsolete,  but  the  place  is  now  better  known  as 
Presidio  Salto — that  is,  "  Fort  Falls,"  or  the  Mexican  military  post  wliich  was 
established  near  the  falls  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Las  Isletas,  or  The  Islets,  is  the 
name  of  the  place  in  the  river  where  the  usually  imp.assable  falls  or  rapids  occur, 
and  just  above  these  is  the  crossing.  The  scene  is  well  shown  on  the  plate 
opp.  p.  68  of  the  Report  cited.  The  latitude  of  Las  Isletas  was  determined  by 
Michler  in  1853  to  be  28°  16'  11. 5"  N. 


HENDERSON  IS  TRAINER,  A   MURDERER.  693 

saying  he  would  go  to  the  Americans,  they  held  a  consulta- 
tion over  him,  and  finally  seized  on  his  clothes  and  divided 
them  between  them  ;  then  his  pistols,  compass,  dirk,  and 
watch,  which  they  took  to  pieces  and  hung  in  their  noses 
and  ears ;  then  they  stripped  him  naked,  and  round  his 
body  found  a  belt  with  gold  pieces  sewed  in  it ;  this  they 
also  took,  and  finally  seized  on  his  gun  and  ammunition, 
and  were  marching  off  to  leave  him  in  that  situation  ;  but 
he  followed  them,  thinking  it  better  to  be  killed  than  left 
in  that  state  to  die  by  hunger  and  cold.  The  savages  after 
some  time  halted,  and  one  pulled  off  an  old  pair  of  leggings 
and  gave  him,  another  mockinsons,  a  third  a  buffalo  robe, 
and  the  one  who  had  carried  his  heavy  rifle  had  by  this 
time  become  tired  of  his  prize,  they  never  using  rifles  ;  they 
counted  him  out  25  charges  of  powder  and  ball,  then  sent 
two  Indians  with  him,  who  put  him  on  a  war-trace,  which 
they  said  led  to  American  establishments ;  and  as  soon  as 
the  Indians  left  him  he  directed  his  course  as  he  supposed 
for  Saint  Antonio.  He  then  killed  deer  and  made  himself 
some  clothes.  He  proceeded  on  and  expended  all  his  am- 
munition three  days  before  he  struck  the  Grand  Road, 
nearly  at  the  Rio  Grande.  He  further  added  that  he  had 
discovered  two  mines,  one  of  silver  and  the  other  of  gold, 
the  situation  of  which  he  particularly  described ;  but  that 
the  general  had  taken  the  samples  from  him.  That  he 
would  not  attempt  to  pass  himself  on  us  for  a  physician, 
and  hoped,  as  he  only  used  simples  and  was  careful  to  do 
no  harm,  we  would  not  betray  him.  He  further  added  that 
since  his  being  in  the  country  he  had  made,  from  informa- 
tion, maps  of  all  the  adjacent  country ;  but  that  they  had 
been  taken  from  him. 

I  had  early  concluded  that  he  was  an  agent  of  Burr's,  and 
was  revolving  in  my  mind  whether  I  should  denounce  him 
as  such  to  the  commandant,  but  feeling  reluctant  from  an 
apprehension  that  he  might  be  innocent,  when  one  of  my 
men  came  in  and  informed  me  that  it  was  Trainer,  who  had 
killed  Major  Bashicr  [?]  in  the  wilderness  between  Natchez 


694  MURDER   WILL   OUT — COMPASS   STOLEN. 

and  Tennessee,  when  he  was  his  hireling.  He  shot  him, 
when  taking  a  nap  at  noon,  through  the  head  with  his  own 
pistols.  The  governor  of  the  State  and  the  major's  friends 
offered  a  very  considerable  reward  for  his  apprehension, 
which  obliged  him  to  quit  the  State  ;  and  with  an  Ama- 
zonian woman,  who  handled  arms  and  hunted  like  a  savage, 
he  retreated  to  the  source  of  the  White  river ;  but,  being 
routed  from  that  retreat  by  Captain  Maney  [James  B. 
Many],  of  the  United  States  army  and  a  party  of  Chero- 
kees,  he  and  his  female  companion  bore  west ;  she,  proving 
to  be  pregnant,  was  left  by  him  in  the  desert,  and  I  was 
informed  arrived  at  the  settlements  on  Red  river,  but  by 
what  means  is  to  me  unknown.  The  articles  and  money 
taken  from  him  by  the  Osages  were  the  property  of  the 
deceased  major.  I  then  reported  these  circumstances  to 
Captain  Barelo,  who  had  him  immediately  confined,  until  the 
will  of  Governor  Cordero  should  be  known,  who  informed 
me,  when  at  Saint  Antonio,  that  he  would  have  him  sent 
to  some  place  of  perpetual  confinement  in  the  interior. 
Thus  vengeance  has  overtaken  the  ingratc  and  murderer 
when  he  least  expected  it. 

In  the  evening  wc  went  to  see  some  performers  on  the 
slack-rope,  who  were  no  wise  extraordinary  in  their  per- 
formances, except  in  language  which  would  bring  a  blush 
on  the  check  of  the  most  abandoned  of  the  female  sex  in 
the  United  States. 

June  2d.  In  the  day  time  were  endeavoring  to  regulate 
our  watches  by  my  compass,  and  in  an  instant  that  my 
back  was  turned  some  person  stole  it.  I  could  by  no 
means  recover  it,  and  I  had  strong  suspicions  that  the  theft 
was  approved,  as  the  instrument  had  occasioned  great 
dissatisfaction. 

This  day  the  captain  went  out  to  dine  with  some  monks, 
who  would  have  thought  it  profanation  to  have  had  us  as 
their  guests,  notwithstanding  the  priest  of  the  place  had 
escorted  us  round  tlie  town  and  to  all  the  missions  ;  we 
found  him  a  very  communicative,  liberal,  and  intelligent 


RIO   GRANDE   CROSSED   INTO   TEXAS — NUECES.       695 

man.  We  saw  no  resource  for  a  dinner  but  in  the  inventive 
genius  of  a  little  Frenchman  who  had  accompanied  us 
from  Chihuahua,  where  he  had  been  officiating  one  year  as 
cook  to  the  general,  of  whom  he  gave  us  many  interesting 
anecdotes,  and  in  fact  was  of  infinite  service  to  us ;  we  sup- 
ported him  and  he  served  as  cook,  interpreter,  etc.  It  was 
astonishing  with  what  zeal  he  strove  to  acquire  news  and 
information  for  us ;  and  as  he  had  been  four  times  through 
the  provinces,  he  had  acquired  considerable  knowledge  of 
the  country,  people,  etc.  He  went  off  and  in  a  very  short  time 
returned  with  table-cloth,  plates,  a  dinner  of  three  or  four 
courses,  a  bottle  of  wine,  and  a  pretty  girl  to  attend  on  the 
table.  We  inquired  by  what  magic  he  had  brought  this 
about,  and  found  that  he  had  been  to  one  of  the  officers 
and  notified  him  that  it  was  the  wish  of  the  commandant 
that  he  should  supply  the  two  Americans  with  a  decent 
dinner,  which  was  done ;  but  we  took  care  to  compensate 
them  for  their  trouble.  This  wc  explained  to  Barelo  in  the 
evening,  and  he  laughed  heartily. 

We  parted  from  the  captain  with  regrets  and  assurances 
of  remembrance.  Departed  at  five  o'clock,  escorted  by 
Ensign  [Blank]  and  [blank]  men ;  came  on  to  the  Rio 
Grande,  which  wc  passed,  and  encamped  at  a  Rancho  on 
the  other  side.     Distance  seven  miles.' 

Jnne  jd.  The  mosquitoes,  which  had  commenced  the 
first  night  on  this  side  of  Montelovez,  now  became  very 
troublesome.  This  day  saw  the  first  horse-flies  ;  saw  some 
wild  horses  ;  came  on  in  the  open  plain,  and  in  a  dry  time, 
when  there  was  no  water.     Distance  30  miles. 

June  4th.  Came  \6  miles  to  a  pond  and  dined  ;  great 
sign  of  wild  horses  ;  in  the  afternoon  to  the  river  Noissour 
[Nueces],  swimming  where  [?.  e.,  too  deep  to  ford  when]  we 
arrived,  although  it  was  not  more  than  ten  steps  wide. 
Distance  36  miles.' 

'  N.  E.,  heading  straight  for  S.in  Antonio  rie  Bexar,  on  the  old  trail,  to  the 
vicinity  of  Carri^o  springs,  Maverick  Co. 

'  The  Nueces   (R.  dcs   Noix  of  F.    maps,  as  Vangondy,   1783  ;  Ncuces   on 


696  NUECES   RIVER   AND   ITS   BRANCHES. 

June  5th.  After  losing  two  horses  in  passing  the  river, 
the  water  having  fallen  so  that  we  forded,  we  crossed  and 
continued  our  route.  Passed  two  herds  of  wild  horses, 
which  left  the  road  for  us.  Halted  at  a  pond  on  the  left 
of  the  road,  1 5  miles,  where  we  saw  the  first  oak  since  we 
left  New  Mexico,  and  this  was  scrub  oak.  Passed  many 
deer  yesterday  and  to-day.  Came  on  to  a  small  creek  at 
night,  where  we  met  a  party  of  the  company  of  Saint  Fer- 
nandez returning  from  the  line.     Distance  31  miles.* 

Jjinc  6th.  Marched  early  and  met  several  parties  of 
troops  returning  from  Texas,  where  they  had  been  sent  to 

Winterbotham's,  1795)  is  the  first  one  of  the  large  series  of  rivers  which  drain 
Texas  to  the  S.  E.  and  S.,  and  fall  into  one  another  or  separately  into  the 
Gulf.  Among  these  are  the  San  Antonio,  the  Guadalupe,  the  Colorado  (Red 
river  of  Texas),  the  Brazos,  the  Trinity,  the  Nechez,  and  the  Sabine — all  of 
vfhich  Pike  had  to  cross,  in  the  order  in  whicli  they  are  here  named,  to  reach 
Natchitoches  on  the  Red  r.  in  the  present  State  of  Louisiana.  During  this 
journey  to  the  last  named  he  continued  in  what  was  then  the  Spanish  prov- 
ince of  Coahuila  until  he  was  almost  to  San  Antonio,  and  thereafter  traversed 
the  then  province  of  Texas,  though  he  passed  into  what  is  now  the  U.  S.  State 
of  Texas  on  crossing  the  Rio  Grande. 

■*  Those  three  streams  which  I'ilce  lays  down  across  his  trail,  before  the  San 
Antonio  is  reached,  are  the  Nueces  ;  the  Leona,  a  branch  of  the  Frio  ;  and 
the  Frio,  main  branch  of  the  Nueces.  These  are  successively  crossed  in  the 
order  here  given.  To-day's  pond  is  marked  on  the  map,  between  the  Nueces 
and  the  Leona  ;  a  second  pond  is  also  marked,  between  the  Leona  and  the 
Frio.  Pike  letters  the  Frio  "  Cold  Creek,"  and  runs  the  Nueces  into  the  Rio 
Grande  at  or  near  Mier  (see  note  ') ;  but  it  empties  separately  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  near  Coq^us  Christi.  Fort  Evvcll  was  built  on  the  Nueces,  on  the 
road  between  San  Antonio  and  Laredo  (Fort  Mcintosh)  ;  near  the  headwaters 
of  the  Leona  was  situated  Fort  Inge,  on  the  road  from  San  Antonio  to  Eagle 
Pass  (Fort  Duncan). 

My  maps  differ  irreconcilably  concerning  a  certain  Rio  Quihi,  tributary  to  the 
Nueces  system.  The  best  one,  of  1857-5S,  makes  it  a  large  branch  of  the 
Leona,  reaching  across  the  direct  route  from  Presidio  Salto  to  San  Antonio,  and 
therefore  across  Pike's  trail.  This  Quihi  r.  is  the  present  San  Miguel  r.,  which 
joins  the  Frio  in  McMullen  Co.  On  .an  earlier  map,  1849,  there  is  no  such 
river,  but  an  insignificant  Quihi  cr. ,  branch  of  a  Rio  Hondo,  branch  of  a  Rio 
Seco,  branch  of  the  Rio  Frio.  Some  of  these  maps  lay  down  a  branch  of  the 
Frio  called  Artaceo.isa  cr.  in  one  instance,  and  Atascosa  cr.  in  another  ;  this 
name  is  the  same  as  th.at  of  a  place  Pike  marks  "  Astecostota,"  and  of  present 
Atascosa  Co.,  in  which  the  creek  runs  to  fall  into  the  Frio  in  Live  Oak  Co. 


PECCARIES — LIPANS — MEDINA   RIVER.  697 

re-enforce,  when  our  troops  were  near  the  line.  Immense 
numbers  of  cross-roads  made  by  the  wild  horses.  Killed  a 
wild  hog  [peccary,  Dicotylcs  torquatus\  which  on  examina- 
tion I  found  to  be  very  different  from  the  tame  breed, 
smaller,  brown,  with  long  hair  and  short  legs  ;  they  are  to 
be  found  in  all  parts  between  Red  river  and  the  Spanish 
settlements. 

Passed  an  encampment  made  by  the  Lee  Panes  [Lipans''] ; 
met  one  of  said  nation  with  his  wife.  In  the  afternoon 
struck  the  woodland,  which  was  the  first  we  had  been  in 
from  the  time  we  left  the  Osage  nation.     Distance  39  miles. 

Snnday,  June  yth.  Came  on  1 5  miles  to  the  [Medina]  river 
Mariano — the  line  between  Texas  and  Cogquilla — a  pretty 
little  stream,  [on  which  was  a]  Rancho.  Thence  in  the  after- 
noon to  Saint  Antonio.'     We  halted  at  the  mission  of  Saint 

'  "  Lee  Panes  "  looks  at  first  sight  as  if  intended  for  Les  Panis,  the  Pawnees. 
But  this  is  Pike's  way  of  rendering  Lipans.  These  were  a  tribe  cognate  with 
Apaches,  and  therefore  of  Athapascan  stock.  They  were  often  called  Lipan 
Apaches,  and  sometimes  Sipans.  Pike  elsewhere  speaks  of  "the  language  of 
tlic  Appaches  and   Le  Panis,"  showing  what  he  means. 

'  The  trip  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  San  Antonio  r.  made  about  151  m.  by 
Pike's  estimates,  serving  to  show  the  course  of  the  old  Spanish  trail  as  the  most 
direct  route  then  practicable.  Pike's  Mariano  is  now  called  Medina  r.;  on  this 
is  Castroville,  se.at  of  Medina  Co.,  and  the  river  mostly  separ.ites  this  county 
from  Bexar  Co.  Pike  sets  San  Antonio  on  the  N.  bank  of  an  affluent  of  a  fork 
large  enough  to  look  as  if  it  were  Rio  Cibolo  ;  but  this  last  comes  in  much  fur- 
ther down  the  .San  Antonio,  and  no  doubt  he  intended  simply  to  delineate  the 
small  forked  San  Pedro,  on  one  of  whose  branches  the  city  was  situated.  The 
San  Antonio  itself  is  represented  as  joining  the  Guadalupe  high  up;  but  these 
two  great  rivers  only  come  together  as  they  approach  the  coast,  to  fall  into 
Espiritu  Santo  bay  opposite  Mat.agorda  isl.,  between  Indianola  and  Arkansas 
City.  On  some  old  maps,  as  that  in  Winterbotham's  History,  1795,  San  Antonio 
is  set  on  a  stream  called  Rio  Hondo,  which  is  run  separately  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  between  the  Nueces  and  the  Guadalupe.  The  early  importance  of  tlic 
Mariano  or  Medina  r.  as  a  political  boundary  ceased  of  course  with  the  retire- 
ment of  Coahuila  beyond  the  Rio  Gr.inde,  and  thus  the  extension  of  Texan  terri- 
tory, through  what  had  been  Coahuilan  territory,  to  New  Mexico.  The  city 
was  formerly  more  fully  called  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  Bejar,  Behar,  Bexer,  etc., 
to  distinguish  it  from  uncounted  other  places  dedicated  to  the  patron  saint  of 
highways  by  highwaymen  and  other  persons,  and  is  still  the  seat  of  Bexar  Co.; 
pop.  lately  37,673  (scarcely  less  than  that  of  D.allas).  The  mission  of  "  St. 
Joseph,"  commonly  called    San  Jose,  is   figured  on  p.   69  of  Major  Emory's 


698  SAN  ANTONIO   DE   BEXAR. 

Joseph  [San  Jos^] ;  received  in   a  friendly  manner  by  the 
priest  of  the  mission  and  others. 

We  were  met  out  of  Saint  Antonio  about  three  miles  by 
Governors  Cordero  and  Herrara,  in  a  coach.  We  repaired 
to  their  quarters,  where  we  were  received  like  their  children. 
Cordero  informed  me  that  he  had  discretionary  orders  as  to 
the  mode  of  my  going  out  of  the  country  ;  that  he  therefore 
wished  me  to  choose  my  time,  mode,  etc. ;  that  any  sum  of 
money  I  might  want  was  at  my  service  ;  that  in  the  mean- 
time Robinson  and  myself  would  make  his  quarters  our 
home  ;  and  that  he  had  caused  to  be  vacated  and  prepared 
a  house  immediately  opposite  for  the  reception  of  my  men. 
In  the  evening  his  levee  was  attended  by  a  crowd  of  officers 
and  priests,  among  whom  were  Father  M'Guire  and  Dr. 
Zerbin.  After  supper  we  went  to  the  public  square,  where 
might  be  seen  the  two  governors  joined  in  a  dance  with 
people  who  in  the  daytime  would  approach  them  with 
reverence  and  awe. 

We  were  here  introduced  to  the  sister  of  Lieutenant  Mal- 
gares'  wife,  who  was  one  of  the  finest  women  we  saw.  She 
was  married  to  a  Captain  Ugarte,  to  whom  we  had  letters 
of  introduction. 

Jimc  Sth.     Remained  at  San  Antonio. 

June  gth.  A  large  party  dined  at  Governor  Cordero's,  who 
gave  as  his  toast,  "  The  President  of  the  United  States — 
Vive  la."  I  returned  the  compliment  by  toasting  "  His 
Catholic  Majesty."  These  toasts  were  followed  by  "  Gen- 
eral Wilkinson."  One  of  the  company  then  gave  "  Those 
gentlemen  ;  their  safe  and  happy  arrival  in  their  own  coun- 
try;  their   honorable   reception,  and   the   continuation   of 

reports,  probably  looking  much  as  it  did  when  Tike  was  received  there  by  the 
priest ;  and  the  steel  engraving  which  forms  the  frontispiece  of  the  same  volume 
shows  the  plaza  of  the  city.  San  Antonio  is  a  very  old  place,  having  been  occu- 
pied for  military  and  ecclesiastical  purposes  before  1720,  was  long  the  most 
important  one  in  Texas,  was  styled  Thermopylns  of  Texas  after  the  massacre  of 
Texans  by  Mexicans  at  Fort  Alamo,  Mar.  6th,  1836,  and  is  now  the  second  in 
size,  though  the  capital  of  the  present  State  is  Austin,  on  the  Rio  Colorado  of 
Texas. 


DIPLOMATIC   DINNER — MILITARY   FUNERAL.  699 

the   good    understanding   which    exists   between    the  two 
countries." 

June  loth.  A  large  party  at  the  governor's  to  dinner.  He 
gave  as  a  toast,  "  My  companion,  Herrara." 

June  nth.  Preparing  to  march  to-morrow.  We  this 
evening  had  a  conversation  with  the  two  governors, 
wherein  they  exhibited  an  astonishing  knowledge  of  the 
political  character  of  our  Executive,  and  the  local  interests 
of  the  different  parts  of  the  Union. 

June  i2tJi.  One  of  the  captains  from  the  kingdom  of 
[Nuevo]  Leon  having  died,  we  were  invited  to  attend  the 
burial,  and  accompanied  the  two  governors  in  their  coach, 
where  we  had  an  opportunity  of  viewing  the  solemnity  of 
the  interment,  agreeably  to  the  ritual  of  the  Spanish  church, 
attended  by  the  military  honors  which  were  conferred  on 
the  deceased  by  his  late  brethren  in  arms. 

[As  I  ascertained  to-day,]  Governor  Cordero  gave  the 
information  of  my  intended  expedition  to  the  commandant- 
general  as  early  as  July  [1806],  the  same  month  that  I 
took  my  departure.  His  information  was  received  via 
Natchez. 

June  ijth.  This  morning  there  were  marched  200  dra- 
goons for  the  sea-coast,  to  look  out  for  the  English,  and 
this  evening  Colonel  Cordero  was  to  have  marched  to  join 
them.  We  marched  at  seven  o'clock.  Governor  Cordero 
taking  us  in  his  coach  about  two  leagues,  accompanied  by 
Father  M'Guire,  Dr.  Zerbin,  etc.  We  took  a  friendly  adieu 
of  Governor  Herrara  and  our  other  friends  at  Saint  Antonio. 
It  may  not  be  improper  to  mention  here  something  of 
Father  M'Guire  and  Dr.  Zerbin,  who  certainly  treated  us 
with  all  imaginable  attention  while  at  Saint  Antonio.  The 
former  was  an  Irish  priest,  who  formerly  resided  on  the 
coast  above  [New]  Orleans  [in  present  Louisiana],  and  was 
noted  for  his  hospitable  and  social  qualities.  On  the 
cession  of  Louisiana,  he  followed  the  standard  of  "the 
king,  his  master,  who  never  suffers  an  old  servant  to  be  neg- 
lected."    He  received  at  Cuba  an  establishment  as  chaplain 


700  DR.   ZERBIN — DON   ANTONIO   CORDERO. 

to  the  mint  of  Mexico,  whence  the  instabiUty  of  human 
affairs  carried  him  to  Saint  Antonio.  He  was  a  man  of 
chaste  classical  taste,  observation,  and  research. 

Dr.  Zerbin  formerly  resided  at  Natchez  [in  present  Missis- 
sippi], but  in  consequence  of  pecuniary  embarrassments 
emigrated  to  the  Spanish  territories.  Being  a  young  man  of 
a  handsome  person  and  an  insinuating  address,  he  had 
obtained  the  good-will  of  Governor  Cordero,  who  had  con- 
ferred on  him  an  appointment  in  the  king's  hospital,  and 
many  other  advantages  by  which  he  might  have  made  a 
fortune ;  but  he  had  recently  committed  some  very  great 
indiscretions,  by  which  he  had  nearly  lost  the  favor  of 
Colonel  Cordero,  though  whilst  we  were  there  he  was  treated 
with  attention. 

I  will  here  attempt  to  portray  a  faint  resemblance  of  the 
characters  of  the  two  governors  whom  we  found  at  Saint 
Antonio  ;  but  to  whose  superexcellent  qualities  it  would 
require  the  pen  of  a  master  to  do  justice. 

Don  Antonio  Cordero  is  about  5  feet  10  inches  in  height, 
50  years  of  age,  with  fair  complexion  and  blue  eyes  ;  he 
wore  his  hair  turned  back,  and  in  every  part  of  his  deport- 
ment was  legibly  written  "  the  soldier."  He  yet  possessed 
an  excellent  constitution,  and  a  body  which  appeared  to  be 
neither  impaired  by  the  fatigues  of  the  various  campaigns  he 
had  made,  nor  disfigured  by  the  numerous  wounds  received 
from  the  enemies  of  his  king.  He  was  one  of  the  select 
ofificers  who  had  been  chosen  by  the  court  of  Madrid  to  be 
sent  to  America  about  35  years  since,  to  discipline  and 
organize  the  Spanish  provincials,  and  had  been  employed 
in  all  the  various  kingdoms  and  provinces  of  New  Spain. 
Through  the  parts  which  we  explored  he  was  universally 
beloved  and  respected  ;  and  when  I  pronounce  him  by  far 
the  most  popular  man  in  the  internal  provinces,  I  risk 
nothing  by  the  assertion.  He  spoke  the  Latin  and  French 
languages  well,  was  generous,  gallant,  brave,  and  sincerely 
attached  to  his  king  and  country.  Those  numerous  qualifi- 
cations advanced  him  to  the  rank  of  colonel  of  cavalry,  and 


DON   SIMON   DE   HERRARA.  70T 

governor  of  the  provinces  of  Cogquilla  and  Texas.  His 
usual  residence  was  Montelovez,  which  he  had  embelhshed 
a  great  deal,  but  since  our  taking  possession  of  Louisiana 
he  had  removed  to  San  Antonio,  in  order  to  be  nearer  the 
frontier,  to  be  able  to  apply  the  remedy  to  any  evil  which 
might  arise  from  the  collision  of  our  lines. 

Don  Simon  de  Herrara  is  about  5  feet  11  inches  high,  has 
a  sparkling  black  eye,  dark  complexion  and  hair.  He  was 
born  in  the  Canary  islands,  served  in  the  infantry  in  France, 
Spain,  and  Flanders,  and  speaks  the  French  language  well, 
with  a  little  of  the  English.  He  is  engaging  in  his  conver- 
sation with  his  equals ;  polite  and  obliging  to  his  inferiors, 
and  in  all  his  actions  one  of  the  most  gallant  and  accom- 
plished men  I  ever  knew.  He  possesses  a  great  knowledge 
of  mankind  from  his  experience  in  various  countries  and 
societies,  and  knows  how  to  employ  the  genius  of  each 
of  his  subordinates  to  advantage.  He  had  been  in  the 
United  States  during  the  presidency  of  General  Washing- 
ton, and  had  been  introduced  to  that  hero,  of  whom  he 
spoke  in  terms  of  exalted  veneration.  He  is  now  lieutenant- 
colonel  of  infantry,  and  governor  of  the  kingdom  of  New 
Leon.  His  seat  of  government  is  Mont  Elrey  [Monterey]  ; 
and  probably,  if  ever  a  chief  is  adored  by  his  people,  it  is 
Herrara.  When  his  time  expired  last,  he  immediately 
repaired  to  Mexico,  attended  by  300  of  the  most  respectable 
people  of  his  government,  who  carried  with  them  the  sighs, 
tears,  and  prayers  of  thousands  that  he  might  be  contin- 
ued in  that  government.  The  viceroy  thought  proper  to 
accord  to  their  wishes  pro  tempore,  and  the  king  has  since 
confirmed  his  nomination.  When  I  saw  him  he  had  been 
about  one  year  absent,  during  which  time  the  citizens  of 
rank  in  Mont  Elrey  had  not  suffered  a  marriage  or  baptism 
to  take  place  in  any  of  their  families,  until  their  common 
father  could  be  there,  to  consent  and  give  joy  to  the  occa- 
sion by  his  presence.  What  greater  proof  could  be  given 
of  their  esteem  and  love  ? 

In  drawing  a  parallel  between  these  two  friends,  I  should 


702  PAR   NOEILE   FRATRUM. 

say  that  Cordero  was  the  man  of  greatest  reading,  and  that 
Herrara  possessed  the  greatest  knowledge  of  the  world. 
Cordero  has  lived  all  his  life  a  bachelor.  Herrara  married 
an  English  lady  in  early  youth,  at  Cadiz ;  one  who  by  her 
suavity  of  manners  makes  herself  as  much  beloved  and 
esteemed  by  the  ladies  as  her  noble  husband  is  by  the 
men.  By  her  he  has  several  children,  one  now  an  olificer 
in  the  service  of  his  royal  master. 

The  two  friends  agree  perfectly  in  one  point — their  hatred 
to  tyranny  of  every  kind ;  and  in  a  secret  determination 
never  to  see  that  flourishing  part  of  the  New  World  subject 
to  any  other  European  lord  except  him  whom  they  think 
their  honor  and  loyalty  bound  to  defend  with  their  lives 
and  fortunes.  But  should  Bonaparte  seize  on  European 
Spain,  I  risk  nothing  in  asserting  that  those  two  gentlemen 
would  be  the  first  to  throw  off  the  yoke,  draw  their  swords, 
and  assert  the  independence  of  their  country. 

Before  I  close  this  subject,  it  may  not  be  improper  to 
state  that  we  owe  it  to  Governor  Herrara's  prudence  that 
we  are  not  now  engaged  in  a  war  with  Spain.  This  will  be 
explained  by  the  following  anecdote,  which  he  related  in 
the  presence  of  his  friend  Cordero,  and  which  was  confirmed 
by  him.  When  the  difficulties  commenced  on  the  Sabine,' 
the  commandant-general  and  the  viceroy  consulted  each 
other,  and  mutually  determined  to  maintain  inviolate  what 
they  deemed  the  dominions  of  their  master.  The  viceroy 
therefore  ordered  Herrara  to  join  Cordero  with  1,300  men, 
and  both  the  viceroy  and  General  Salcedo  ordered  Cordero 
to  cause  our  troops  to  be  attacked,  should  they  pass  the 
Rio  Oude  [sif].  These  orders  were  positively  reiterated  to 
Herrara,  the  actual  commanding  officer  of  the  Spanish  army 
on  the  frontiers,  and  gave  rise  to  the  many  messages  which 

'  Sabine  r.  still  forms  a  portion  of  the  boundary  between  Texas  and 
Louisiana — that  is,  from  the  Gulf  to  32°  N.,  the  remainder  being  along  a 
meridian  to  33'.  In  consequence  of  its  delimiting  office,  it  was  formerly 
called  Rio  Mexicano  and  Mexican  r.  Thus  "  Mexicano  R."  appears  on  the  map 
accompanying  Winterbotham's  History,  N.  Y.,  J.  Reid,  1795. 


HERRARA'S   patriotism— GUADALUPE   RIVER.        703 

he  sent  to  General  Wilkinson  when  he  was  advancing  with 
our  troops.  Finding  they  were  not  attended  to,  he  called 
a  council  of  war  on  the  question  to  attack  or  not,  when  it 
was  given  as  their  opinion  that  they  should  immediately 
commence  a  predatory  warfare,  but  avoid  a  general  engage- 
ment ;  yet,  notwithstanding  the  orders  of  the  viceroy,  the 
commandant-general,  Governor  Cordero's,  and  the  opinion 
of  his  officers,  he  had  the  firmness  or  temerity  to  enter  into 
the  agreement  with  General  Wilkinson  which  at  present 
exists  relative  to  our  boundaries  on  that  frontier.  On  his 
return  he  was  received  with  coolness  by  Cordero,  and  they 
both  made  their  communications  to  their  superiors.  "  Until 
an  answer  was  received,"  said  Herrara,  "  I  experienced  the 
most  unhappy  period  of  my  life,  conscious  I  had  served  my 
country  faithfully,  at  the  same  time  that  I  had  violated 
every  principle  of  military  duty."  At  length  the  answer 
arrived,  and  what  was  it,  but  the  thanks  of  the  viceroy  and 
the  commandant-general  for  having  pointedly  disobeyed 
their  orders,  with  assurances  that  they  would  represent  his 
services  in  exalted  terms  to  the  king.  What  could  have 
produced  this  change  of  sentiment  is  to  me  unknown,  but 
the  letter  was  published  to  the  army,  and  confidence  again 
restored  between  the  two  chiefs  and  the  troops. 

Our  company  consisted  of  Lieutenant  Jn.  Echararria, 
who  commanded  the  escort ;  Captain  Eugene  Marchon  of 
New  Orleans,  and  Father  Jose  Angel  Cabaso,  who  was 
bound  to  the  camp  at  or  near  the  [river]  Trinity  ;  with  a 
suitable  proportion  of  soldiers.  We  came  on  16  miles  to 
a  place  called  the  Beson,  where  we  halted  until  the  mules 
came  up.  Marched  again  at  four  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the 
river  of  Guadalupe  at  eight  o'clock.     Distance  30  miles." 

'  Striking  the  Guadalupe  at  about  the  nearest  point,  in  the  vicinity  of  present 
town  of  New  Braunfels  ;  to  reach  it,  Rio  Cibolo  was  crossed,  and  there  was  the 
place  called  El  Beson.  There  is  no  such  disparity  of  size  between  the  Guada- 
lupe and  San  Antonio  rivers  as  Pike's  map  indicates.  The  former  has  two 
main  forks,  the  western  one  retaining  the  name  Guadalupe,  for  which  Pike 
letters  "  Buenacus."  The  other  is  called  Rio  San  Marco,  or  San  Marcos  ;  it 
falls  in  at  or  near  Gonzales,  about  40  m.  (direct)  below  New  Braunfels. 


704  RIO   SAN   MARCO— RIO   COLORADO. 

Sunday,  June  i^th.  When  we  left  Saint  Antonio,  every- 
thing appeared  to  be  in  a  flourishing  and  improving  state, 
owing  to  the  examples  and  encouragement  given  to  indus- 
try, poHteness,  and  civilization  by  the  excellent  Governor 
Cordero  and  his  colleague  Herrara  ;  also  to  the  large  body 
of  troops  maintained  at  that  place  in  consequence  of  the 
difference  existing  between  the  United  States  and  Spain. 

Came  on  to  the  Saint  Mark  [river,  Rio  San  Marco]  in  the 
morning;  in  the  afternoon  came  on  15  miles  further,  but 
was  late,  owing  to  our  having  taken  the  wrong  road.  Dis- 
tance 30  miles." 

June  i§th.  Marched  20  miles  in  the  morning  to  a  small 
pond,  which  is  dry  in  a  dry  season,  where  we  halted.  Here 
commenced  the  oak  timber,  it  having  been  musqueet  [mes- 
quit,  Prosopis  juliflora]  in  general  from  Saint  Antonio. 
Prairie  like  the  Indiana  territory.  In  the  afternoon  came 
on  six  miles  further  to  a  creek,  where  we  encamped  early. 
Distance  26  miles.'" 

June  i6th.  Marched  early,  and  at  eight  o'clock  arrived 
at  Red  river  [Rio  Colorado  of  Texas  "].     Here  was  a  small 

'  Cimp  in  vicinity  of  the  present  town  of  Lockhart  (?). 

"•  Camp  short  of  Bastrop,  a  comparatively  old  place  on  the  Rio  Colorado, 
located  at  the  point  where  the  Spanish  trail  crossed  the  river,  about  35  m. 
below  Austin,  and  present  seat  of  the  county  of  the  same  name.  Bastrop  is  a 
mere  village,  pop,  about  1,650,  but  the  name  was  famous  in  the  early  annals 
of  Texas,  when  the  Baron  Bastrop  had  his  immense  estate  on  the  Washita. 
Dunbar  and  Hunter,  in  their  well-known  Observations,  etc.,  which  formed 
one  of  the  tracts  accompanying  Jefferson's  Message  to  Congress  of  Feb.  19th, 
1806,  inform  us  that  the  Baron's  great  grant  of  land  from  the  Spanish 
government  began  near  the  Bayou  Bartholomew,  about  12  leagues  above 
the  post  on  the  Washita,  and  consisted  of  a  square  12  leagues  on  each  side. 
or  over  a  million  French  acres  (London  ed.  1807,  p.  83).  Bastrop  seems  to 
have  been  a  prototype  of  the  modern  "  cattle  barons,"  or  "  cattle  kings,"  as 
they  are  styled,  who  generally  manage  to  cover  more  ground  than  Queen 
Dido  did  when  she  stretched  a  buH's-hide  around  her  famous  city. 

"  This  Red  r.  or  Rio  Colorado  requires  attention  to  discriminate  it  from 
several  others  of  the  same  name  ;  they  are  all  great  streams,  not  to  be  con- 
founded, in  spite  of  their  homonymity  :  i.  Red  r.  of  the  North,  rtowing  into 
British  America  between  North  Dakota  and  Minnesota;  see  Part  \.,  passim. 
2.    Red  r.,  the  upjiermost  and   smallest  one  of  three  branches  of  the  Arkan- 


A   RUBRIC   OF   RIVERS — THE   TONKAWANS.  705 

Spanish  station  and  several  lodges  of  Tancards — tall,  hand- 
some men,  but  the  most  naked  savages  I  ever  saw,  without 
exception.  They  complained  much  of  their  situation.  In 
the  afternoon  passed  over  hilly,  stony  land  ;  occasionally 
we  saw  pine  timber.  Killed  one  deer.  Encamped  on  a 
small  run.     Distance  26  miles. 

June  ijth.  Came  on  by  nine  o'clock  to  a  large  encamp- 
ment of  Tancards,"  more   than  40  lodges.     Their  poverty 

saw  which  have  been  so  called.  This  was  oftenest  called  Negracka  r.,  but  is 
now  usually  known  as  the  Salt  fork  of  the  Arkansaw  ;  see  note  '",  p.  552.  3. 
Red  r.,  the  middle  one  of  three  branches  of  the  Arkansaw  which  have  been 
so  called,  now  known  as  the  Cimarron  r. :  see  note  '",  p.  553.  4.  Red  r.,  the 
lowest  and  largest  of  the  three  branches  of  the  Arkansaw  which  have  been  so 
called  ;  it  is  the  main  fork  of  the  Arkansaw,  often  known  as  the  Red  r.  of 
Arkansas,  oftenest  now  as  the  Canadian  r. :  see  note  ",  p.  558.  5.  The  Red  r. 
of  Louisiana,  the  Red  r.  of  Natchitoches,  the  Red  r.  of  the  Mississippi — the 
Red  r.  of  Pike's  Expedition,  which  he  never  found.  This  is  the  first  (lowest) 
great  branch  of  the  Mississippi  from  the  W.,  and  the  one  now  most  commonly 
known  as  the  Red  r.,  without  any  qualifying  phrase,  probably  never  called 
Colorado  r.  One  of  its  Indian  names  is  Kecheahquehono,  to  be  found  on  some 
maps.  6.  The  Red  r.  of  Texas,  the  one  Pike  crosses  this  l6th  of  June  near 
Bastrop,  and  which  flows  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  at  Matagorda,  between  the 
Guadalupe  and  the  Brazos  rivers.  This  is  also  the  Rio  Roxo  or  Rojo,  and  the 
Rio  Colorado,  of  the  Spanish,  sometimes  qualified  as  Rio  Colorado  del  Este,  or 
Colorado  r.  of  the  East  (though  it  is  the  southernmost  of  the  lot),  to  distinguish 
it  from  :  7.  Red  r.  of  the  West  ;  Rio  Colorado  del  Occidente  ;  Colorado  r.  of 
the  West,  flowing  into  the  Gulf  of  California.  This  has  seldom  been  called 
Red  r.,  and  is  always  now  known  as  the  Colorado,  without  qualifying  terms,  as 
we  very  early  adopted  the  Spanish  name.  We  hear  of  cowboys  who  "  paint  the 
town  red  "  in  carrying  their  jags,  but  that  is  nothing  to  the  way  these  rivers 
have  rubricated  maps.  Easy  alliteration  of  the  words  "  red  "  and  "  river  "  has 
doubtless  tended  to  spread  the  phrase,  in  the  lack  of  nomenclatural  resources, 
and  in  ignorance  of  the  connections  of  several  of  these  rivers. 

"  The  "  Tancards  "  of  whom  Pike  speaks  on  the  l6th  and  17th,  also  called 
Tankahuas,  Tonkawans,  Tankaways,  etc.,  were  a  remarkable  people — a  sort  of 
Ishmaelites  who  roamed  about,  and  seemed  to  belong  nowhere  in  particular. 
Powell  styles  them  a  "  colluvies  gentium  "  or  fusion  of  tribes  ;  and  what  little 
we  know  of  their  local  habitation  is  derived  mainly  from  Dr.  Sibley's  notes, 
supplemented  by  the  above  passages  in  Pike's  narrative.  Dr.  Sibley's  historical 
letter  to  General  Dearborn,  dated  Natchitoches,  Apr.  5th,  1805,  and  first  pub- 
lished with  other  tracts  in  Jefferson's  Message  to  Congress  of  Feb.  19th,  1806, 
is  one  of  the  bases  of  the  literature  on  this  subject.  "  The  Tankaways  (or 
Tanks,  as  the  French  call  them),"  s.iys  Sibley,  p.  45  of  the  London  ed  ,  1807, 


7o6  THE   RIVER   OF  THE   ARMS   OF   GOD. 

was  as  remarkable  as  their  independence.  Immense  herds 
of  horses,  etc.  I  gave  a  Camanche  and  Tancard  each  a 
silk  handkerchief,  and  a  recommendation  to  the  com- 
mandant at  Natchitoches.  In  the  afternoon  came  on  three 
hours  and  encamped  on  a  hill,  at  a  creek  on  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  road.  Met  a  large  herd  of  mules  escorted  by 
four  soldiers ;  the  heutenant  took  from  them  some  money 
which  they  had  in  charge.     Distance  30  miles. 

June  iSth.     Rode  on  until  half  past  ten  o'clock,  when  we 
arrived  at  the  river  Brassos."     Here  is  a  stockade  guard  of 

"  have  no  land,  nor  claim  the  exclusive  right  to  any,  nor  have  any  particular 
place  of  abode,  but  are  always  moving,  alternately  occupyinij  the  country 
watered  by  the  Trinity,  Braces  [Brazos],  and  Colerado,  towards  St.  a  Fe. 
Resemble,  in  their  dress,  the  Cances  [Kanzas]  and  Hietans  [Conianches],  but 
[are]  all  in  one  horde  or  tribe.  Their  number  of  men  is  estimated  at  about  200; 
are  good  hunters  ;  kill  buffaloe  and  deer  with  the  bow  ;  have  the  best  breed  of 
horses  ;  are  alternately  friends  and  enemies  of  the  Spaniards.  An  old  trader 
lately  informed  me  that  he  has  received  5000  deer  skins  from  them  in  one  year, 
exclusive  of  tallow,  rugs  and  tongues.  They  plant  nothing,  but  live  upon  fruits 
and  flesh  :  are  strong,  athletic  people,  and  excellent  horsemen."  The  history  of 
the  tribe  dates  back  of  Sibley  and  Pike  nearly  a  century,  if  the  first  mention  of 
these  Bedouins  of  the  Texan  sands  in  1719  be  taken  as  its  starting-point.  In 
1876  Gatschet  had  collected  a  vocabulary  of  about  300  words,  upon  which  lin- 
guistic material  he  classed  the  people  as  a  separate  stock  called  Tonkawa,  from 
the  Caddoan  or  Wakoan  word  lonkaweya,  implying  that  these  Indians  kept  by 
themselves,  aloof  from  other  tribes.  The  Tonkawan  family  is  recognized  by 
Powell  as  one  of  the  58  distinct  linguistic  stocks  he  adopts  in  his  classification  ; 
his  map  locates  the  tribe  agreeably  with  the  above  indications,  and  his  text 
adds  :  "  About  1847  they  were  engaged  as  scouts  in  the  United  States  Army,  and 
from  1860-62  (?)  were  in  the  Indian  Territory  ;  after  the  secession  war  till  1884 
they  lived  in  temporary  camps  near  Fort  Griffin,  Shackleford  County,  Texas,  and 
in  October,  1884,  they  removed  to  the  Indian  Territory  (now  on  Oakland  Reserve). 
In  1884  there  were  78  individuals  living  ;  associated  with  them  were  19  Lipan 
Apache  "  (Seventh  Ann.  Rep.  Bur.  Ethn.,  1885-S6,  published  1891,  p.  126). 
Two  other  Tonkawan  tribes,  the  Mayes  and  Yakwal,  are  extinct  or  merged  in 
the  former  ;  and  several  minor  bands  have  been  known  by  name. 

'» The  full  style  of  this  river  was  el  Rio  de  los  Brazos  de  Dios,  River  of  the 
Arms  of  God,  which  seemed  neither  blasphemous  nor  sacrilegious  to  the  admira- 
ble fanatics  who  so  solemnly  theographized  geography  in  their  excursions  for 
the  salvation  of  souls,  ad  majorem  Dei  gloriam.  It  is  difficult  for  us  to  realize 
what  a  queer  lot  they  were,  with  their  "  Monastery  Road"  to  the  "  Opening  of 
the  Virgin,"  their  Corpus  Christi  in  one  place  and  Sangre  de  Cristo  elsewhere, 
Holy  Ghost  bay,  Todos  Santos  collectively  when  they  ran   out  of  individual 


THE   CREEK   OF   THE   HODV   OF  CHRIST.  707 

one  corporal,  six  men,  and  a  ferry-boat.  Swam  our  liorscs 
over  ;  one  was  drowned  and  several  others  were  near  it, 
owing  to  their  striking  each  other  with  their  feet.  Wc  then 
came  on  about  two  miles  on  this  side  of  a  bayou  called  the 
Little  Brassos,  which  is  only  a  branch  of  the  other,  and 
which  makes  an  impassable  swamp  at  certain  seasons 
between    them.     Distance   31  miles. 

June  igtii.  Came  on  through  prairies  and  woods  alter- 
nately 20  miles  to  a  small  creek.  Corpus  Christi,  with  well- 
wooded,  rich  land.  In  the  afternoon  came  on  ten  miles, 
and  passed  a  creek  which  at  high  water  is  nearly  impassable 
four  miles.  Overflows  swamps,  ponds,  etc.  Encamped 
about  one  mile  on  this  side,  on  high  land  to  the  right  of 
the  road.  Met  the  mail,  Indians,  and  others.  Distance  30 
miles." 

Ju7ie  20th.  Came  on  16  miles  in  the  morning;  passed 
several  herds  of  mustangs  or  wild  horses ;  good  land,  ponds 
and   small  dry   creeks,  prairie  and   woods,   alternately.     It 

saints,  and  Rio  Trinidad  for  the  whole  Trinity  after  the  members  of  the  divine 
family  had  been  separately  complimented.  It  is  fortunate  that  we  cannot 
commit  the  intellectual  anachronism  of  putting  ourselves  in  the  place  of  these 
very  sincere  servants  of  a  very  moderate  polytheism,  though  the  result  lie  that 
the  Brazos  is  also  called  Brasses  and  Braces  r.,  bringing  up  a  ludicrous  associa- 
tion of  ideas  with  the  buttons  and  suspenders  which  u]ihold  our  triniscrs,  ad 
niajorera  pudorem  virorum.  Other  names  of  this  stream  are  Riviere  .Sle. 
Thercse  (or  I\.io  Santa  Teresa),  and  R.  Maligne  ;  thus  the  phrase  "  .St. 
Thereseor  or  Maline  R."  appears  on  the  map  in  Winterbotham's  History,  1795. 
The  river  is  the  largest  one  of  the  series  Pike  is  crossing  ;  it  drains  a  great  area 
in  Texas  from  the  Llanos  Estacados  or  Staked  Plains  to  the  Gulf,  which  it 
reaches  between  Galveston  and  Matagorda.  The  point  at  which  the  old 
Spanish  trail  struck  it  is  indicated  by  Pike's  mention  of  the  IJttle  Brazos,  a 
sort  of  bayou  or  side-sluice  which  nins  close  to  the  E.  side  of  the  main  stream 
for  a  great  distance.     The  crossing  was  near  the  mouth  of  this  b.ayou. 

'*  The  streams  passed  to-day  are  tributaries  of  the  Brazos,  the  larger  one 
mentioned  being  th.it  afterward  known  as  Navasotar. ,  which  falls  in  a  good 
way  below,  at  or  near  a  place  which  was  once  named  Washington.  The  high  land 
on  the  other  side,  on  which  was  camp,  represents  sonic  of  the  elevation  which 
forms  the  water-shed  between  Brazos  and  Trinity  rivers,  and  which  is  p.assed 
over  next  day.  The  clause  of  the  text  reading  "  impassable  four  miles.  Over- 
flows swamps,  ponds,  etc.,"  I  suppose  may  be  read  "  impassable  for  (some)  miles 
(along  its  course,  where  it)  overflows  (in)  swamjis,  ponds,  etc." 


708  FATHER,   SON,   AND   HOI.Y   GHOST  RIVER. 

rained  considerably.  Wc  halted  to  dry  our  baggage  long 
before  night.     Distance  20  miles. 

Sunday,  June  21st.  Came  on  to  the  river  Trinity  [Rio 
Trinidad  "]  by  eight  o'clock.  Here  were  stationed  two  cap- 
tains, two  lieutenants,  and  three  ensigns,  with  nearly  100 
men,  all  sick,  one  scarcely  able  to  assist  another.  Met  a 
number  of  runaway  negroes,  some  French,  and  Irishmen. 
Received  information  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  safe  arrival. 
Crossed  with  all  our  horses  and  baggage,  with  much  diffi- 
culty.    Distance  20  miles. 

Jufte  22d.  Marched  the  mules  and  horses  in  the  fore- 
noon, but  did  not  depart  ourselves  until  three  o'clock. 
Father  Jose  Angel  Cabaso  separated  from  us  at  this  place 
for  the  post  of  [300  Spanish  troops  cantoned  further  down 
Trinity  river],  where  he  was  destined.  Passed  thick  woods, 
and  a  few  small  prairies  with  high  rich  grass.  Sent  a 
dispatch  to  Nacogdoches.     Distance  22  miles." 

June  2jd.  Came  on  20  miles  in  the  forenoon  to  a  small 
creek  of  standing  water ;  good  land  and  well  timbered. 
Met  a  sergeant  from  Nacogdoches.  In  the  afternoon  made 
20  miles  and   crossed   the  river  Natches  [or  Neches,"]  run- 

'^The  original  Rio  Trinidad  has  become  better  known  under  its  equivalent 
English  name  of  the  Trinity,  and  there  is  a  place  lower  down  on  it  which 
is  or  was  called  Trinidad  or  Trinity  (now  Swartwout  ?).  It  empties  into  Gal- 
veston bay,  and  so  into  the  Gulf.  The  Spanish  trail  from  the  crossing  led  on 
to  a  place  called  Crockett,  in  Houston  Co.,  at  or  near  which  camp  of  the  2lst 
was  pitched.  A  little  above  the  crossing,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  we  are 
informed  by  Dr.  Sibley,  was  the  residence  of  the  Keyes  or  Keychias,  a  Caddoan 
tribe  which  in  1805  mustered  60  men.  These  are  now  called  Kichais,  and 
now  or  lately  consisted  of  about  60  persons. 

"  For  Nacogdoches  see  next  note.  The  above  lacuna  in  the  text  may  be 
presumptively  supplied  from  Pike's  map,  where  the  post  is  marked  to  that 
effect. 

"  Natches  and  Neches  are  obviously  the  same  Indian  word,  the  root  of  which 
appears  in  Natchitoches  and  various  other  names.  The  two  have  run  through 
the  usual  range  of  variation  in  spelling  in  the  course  of  writing  .and  printing  ; 
but  of  late  years  the  form  Natchez  has  become  fixed  as  the  name  of  the  well- 
known  city  on  the  Mississippi  below  Vicksburg,  while  the  designation  of  the 
river  has  perhaps  acquired  stability  in  the  form  of  Neches.  The  latter  is  the 
principal  stream  between  the  Trinity  and  the  Sabine  ;  it  runs  south   approxi- 


NECHES  AND   ANGELINE   RIVERS.  709 

ning  N.  W.  and  S.  E.,  20  yards  wide,  belly-deep  to  horses 
at  this  time,  but  sometimes  impassable.  Two  miles  on  this 
side  encamped  on  a  hill  in  a  little  prairie.  The  mules  and 
loads  arrived  at  twelve  o'clock.  The  sandy  soil  and  pine 
timber  began  again  this  afternoon,  but  there  was  good  land 
near  the  river.     Distance  40  miles. 

June  2^th.  The  horses  came  up  this  morning;  lost  six 
over  night.  We  marched  early  and  in  15  miles  came  to  the 
river  Angcline  [Rio  Angelina],  about  the  width  of  the 
Natchez,  running  N.  and  S.;  good  land  on  its  borders. 
Two  miles  further  was  a  settlement  of  Barr  and  Davenport's, 
where  were  three  of  our  lost  horses ;  one  mile  further 
found  two  more  of  our  horses,  where  we  halted  for  dinner. 
Marched  at  four  o'clock,  and  at  half  past  eight  arrived  at 
Nacogdoches,  where  we  were  politely  received  by  the 
adjutant  and  inspector  [Don  Francisco  Viana],  Captain 
Herrara,  Mr.  Davenport,  etc.  This  part  of  the  country  is 
well  watered,  but  sandy ;  hilly  soil ;  pine,  scrub  oak,  etc. 
Distance  37  miles. 

June  2^th.  Spent  in  reading  a  gazette  from  the  United 
States,  etc.     A  large  party  at  the  adjutant  and  inspector's 

mately  parallel  with  both,  and  falls  into  the  Gulf  through  Sabine  1.,  as  the  Sabine 
does  ;  in  fact,  it  is  collateral  with  the  Sabine,  and  has  been  considered  a  branch 
of  the  latter.  The  Spanish  trail  crossed  it  high  up.  Its  own  main  branch  is 
that  eastern  one  known  as  Rio  Angelina  or  Angeline  r.,  which  Pike  crosses  on 
the  24th  ;  and  E.  of  a  small  branch  of  the  latter  was  the  site  of  Nacogdoches.  It 
is  now  an  obscure  village,  pop.  about  1,200,  seat  of  the  county  of  its  own  name, 
which  occupies  a  space  between  Angelina  and  Atoyac  rivers  ;  but  the  place  is 
an  old  one,  which,  like  all  the  others  which  the  Spanish  trail  went  through,  has 
a  long  ethnic,  civil,  and  military  history.  Neches  or  Natches  r.  is  to  be  par- 
ticularly noted  as  the  ancient  seat  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  who,  though  a  mere 
handful  a  century  ago,  left  their  name  as  a  legacy  for  all  time.  Sibley  (/.  c, 
p.  43)  speaks  of  "a  small  river,  a  branch  of  the  S.abine,  called  the  Naches," 
on  which  lived  the  "  Inies,  or  Tachies  (called  indifferently  by  both  names)," 
and  adds:  "From  the  latter  name  the  name  of  the  province  of  Tachus 
or  Taxus  is  derived,"  /.  e.,  Texas.  Among  the  permutations  of  the  word 
and  its  derivatives  not  the  least  singular  is  the  English  adjective  and  noun 
Texican — a  word  obviously  formed  upon  the  model  of  Mexican  from  Mexico. 
I  suppose  this  is  modern,  and  what  may  be  termed  cowboy  dialect  ;  I  used  to 
hear  it  constantly  when  I  was  in  those  parts. 


y\0  NACOGDOCHES — ^VIANA. 

to  dinner:  1st  toast,  "The  President  of  the  United  States"; 
2d,  "The  King  of  Spain";  3d,  "Governors  Herrara  and 
Cordero." 

June  26th.  Made  preparations  to  march  the  next  day. 
Saw  an  old  acquaintance  ;  also,  Lorrimier's  son-in-law,  from 
the  district  of  Cape  Jerardeau  [Girardeau].  Dined  with 
the  commandant,  and  spent  the  evening  at  Davenport's. 

June  2yth.  Marched  after  dinner  and  came  only  12 
miles.  Was  escorted  by  Lieutenant  Guodiana  and  a  mili- 
tary party.  Mr.  Davenport's  brother-in-law,  who  was  taking 
in  some  money,  also  accompanied  us. 

Don  Francis  Viana,  adjutant  and  inspector  of  the  Internal 
provinces,  who  commanded  at  Nacogdoches,  is  an  old  and 
veteran  officer,  and  was  one  of  those  who  came  to  America 
at  the  same  time  with  Colonel  Cordero.  Possessing  a  mind 
of  frankness,  he  unfortunately  spoke  his  opinions  too  freely 
in  some  instances,  which,  finding  their  way  to  court,  pre- 
vented his  promotion.  But  he  is  highly  respected  by  his 
superiors,  and  looked  up  to  as  a  model  of  military  conduct 
by  his  inferiors.  He  unfortunately  does  not  possess  flexi- 
bility sufficient  to  be  useful  [to  us]  in  the  present  state  of 
the  Spanish  kingdoms.  He  is  the  officer  who  caused  Major 
Sparks  and  Mr.  Freeman  to  return  from  their  expedition  on 
the  Red  river  [see  p.  412]. 

Sunday,  June  sSth.  Marched  early  and  at  nine  o'clock 
crossed  the  little  river  called  [Toyac  '"],  whence  we  pushed 

'*  Three  lacuna?  in  this  sentence,  two  of  which  T  fill,  omitting  the  other,  which 
was  a  long  dash  in  place  of  the  Frenchman's  name.  We  seem  bound  by  Pike's 
map  to  supply  "  Toyac  "  as  the  missing  name  of  the  river  he  means,  though 
there  is  certainly  no  such  large  river  as  he  lays  down  between  the  Neches  and 
the  Sabine.  The  map  is  evidently  at  fault  here,  for  he  runs  the  Neches  into 
Trinity  r.,  and  thus  into  Galveston  b.ay,  .and  his  "  Rio  Toyac"  comes  nearer 
exhibiting  the  proper  relations  of  the  Neches  with  the  Sabine.  Exactly  what 
his  great  "  Rio  Toyac  "  may  pass  for  is  thus  questionable,  but  the  "  little  river" 
of  the  text,  which  he  crosses  after  leaving  Nacogdoches,  must  be  the  present 
Atoyac  r.  (the  branch  of  the  Angelina  which  separates  Nacogdoches  Co.  from 
San  Augustin  Co.,  for  the  most  part).  The  route  continues  to-day  past  San 
Augustin,  which  was  on  the  Spanish  trail,  and  on  or  near  another  small  branch 
of  the  Angelina,  which  runs  between  San  Augustin  Co.  and  Sabine  Co.     The 


CROSSING  THE   SPANISH-AMERICAN   RUBICON.         71I 

on  in  order  to  arrive  at  the  house  of  a  Frenchman,  [about 
nine]  miles  distant  from  the  Sabine.  We  stopped  at  a 
house  on  the  road,  where  the  lieutenant  informed  me  an 
American  by  the  name  of  Johnson  lived  ;  but  was  surprised 
to  find  he  had  crosed  the  line  with  his  family,  and  a  French 
family  in  his  place.  When  we  began  conversing  with  them 
they  were  much  alarmed,  thinking  we  had  come  to  examine 
them,  and  expressed  great  attachment  to  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernment. They  were  somewhat  astonished  to  find  I  was  an 
American  officer;  and  on  my  companions  stepping  out,  ex- 
pressed themselves  in  strong  terms  of  hatred  to  the  Spanish 
nation.  I  excused  them  for  their  weakness,  and  gave  them 
a  caution.  Fine  land,  well  watered  and  timbered  ;  hickory, 
oak,  sugar-tree,  etc.     Distance  40  miles. 

June  zgth.  Our  baggage  and  horses  came  up  about  ten 
o'clock,  when  we  dispatched  them  on.  Marched  ourselves 
at  two  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  river  Sabine  by  five.  Here 
we  saw  the  cantonment  of  the  Spanish  troops,  when  they 
were  commanded  by  Colonel  Herrara,  in  the  late  affair  be- 
tween the  two  governments.  Crossed  the  Sabine  river  and 
came  about  one  league  on  this  side  to  a  little  prairie,  where 
we  encamped.     Distance  15  miles.'" 

place  where  lie  stopped  on  the  28th,  only  three  hours'  mnrch  from  the  Saliine, 
and  where  he  found  both  Frenchmen  and  Americans,  was  evidently  the  exact 
locality  of  which  Sibley  speaks  concerning  certain  Caddoan  Indians  known  as 
Aliche,  Eyeish,  or  Eyish.  They  were  then  on  the  verge  of  extinction,  having 
been  in  l8oi  reduced  by  the  smallpox  till  only  25  of  them  were  left  in  1805. 
Writing  in  the  latter  year  he  says  (A  c,  p.  43)  that  "  they  were,  some  years  ago, 
a  considerable  nation,  and  lived  on  a  bayau  which  bears  their  name,  which  the 
road  from  Nachitoch  to  Nacogdoches  crosses,  about  12  miles  west  of  Sabine  r., 
on  which  a  few  French  and  American  families  are  settled."  These  data  fix 
Pike's  camp  with  precision. 

"  The  former  office  of  the  Sabine  or  Mexican  r.  in  delimiting  Spanish  from 
American  possessions  continues  to-day  in  so  far  as  it  represents  the  boundary  be- 
tween Texas  and  Louisiana.  On  crossing  it,  our  fervid  young  patriot  passed 
from  the  military  protection  of  his  Catholic  Majesty  to  that  of  his  Brother  Jon- 
athan and  Uncle  Sam— the  former  of  these  two,  by  the  way,  being  as  actual  a 
person  as  King  Ch.arles  IV.  of  Spain,  and  no  other  than  Jonathan  Trundiull  of 
Connecticut.  The  Spanish  trail  entered  what  is  now  the  State  of  Louisiana  at 
a  point  between  Hamilton  and  Sabinetown,  both  of  which  were  places  on  the 


712  FROM   TEXAS   TO   LOUISIANA. 

Parted  with  Lieutenant  Guodiana  and  our  Spanish  escort. 
Here  I  think  proper  to  bear  testimony  to  the  politeness, 
civility,  and  attention  of  all  the  officers  who  at  different 
periods  and  in  different  provinces  commanded  my  escort, 
but  in  a  particular  manner  to  Malgares  and  Barelo,  who  ap- 
peared studious  to  please  and  accommodate,  all  that  lay  in 
their  power ;  also,  the  obliging,  mild  dispositions  evinced  in 
all  instances  by  their  rank  and  file. 

On  this  side  of  the  Sabine  I  went  up  to  a  house,  where  I 
found  icon 5  Americans  hovering  near  the  line,  in  order  to 
embrace  an  opportunity  of  carrying  on  some  illicit  com- 
merce with  the  Spaniards,  who  on  their  side  were  equally 
eager.  Here  we  found  Tharp  and  Sea,  who  had  been  old 
sergeants  in  General  Wayne's  army. 

June  30th.  Marched  early  and  came  15  miles  to  a  house 
at  a  small  creek,  where  lived  a  Dutch  family  named  Faulk, 
and  where  we  left  a  small  roan  horse  which  had  given  out. 
Marched  12  miles  further  to  a  large  bayou,  where  had  been 
an  encampment  of  our  troops,  which  I  recognized  by  its 
form,  and  took  pleasure  in  imagining  the  position  of  the 
general's  marquee  and  the  tents  of  my  different  friends  and 
acquaintances.     Distance  28  [27]  miles."" 

July  1st.     Finding  that  a  horse  of  Dr.  Robinson's,  which 

Texan  side  of  the  river.  The  crossing  was  but  little  above  Sabinctown,  and 
between  two  small  watercourses  known  as  Bayou  San  Tatricio  and  Bayou  San 
Miguel,  both  running  in  Sabine  Co.,  La.  His  camp  of  the  30th  seems  to  have 
been  between  Bayou  Miguel  and  the  next  below,  now  called  Lennan  ;  and 
these  two  I  suppose  to  be  the  ones  he  lays  down  as  running  into  the  Sabine 
together,  as  they  do,  pretty  nearly. 

'"  General  Wilkinson's  "  marquee,"  the  location  of  which  Pike  took  pleasure 
in  imagining,  w.as  the  large  tent  used  by  field  and  general  officers  ;  the  name 
is  not  often  heard  now,  though  the  word  is  hardly  obsolete.  Old  Fort  Jesup 
was  built  directly  on  the  continuation  of  the  Spanish  trail  in  Louisiana,  rather 
less  than  half-way  from  the  Sabine  to  Red  r.  A  short  distance  S.  of  this 
was  a  place  whose  name  apjiears  on  various  maps  as  Many,  Manny,  Maney, 
and  by  accident  Mary— the  latter  on  Emory's,  1857-58,  which  I  think  is  one 
of  the  most  accurate  and  altogether  useful  maps  ever  drawn  to  a  scale  of 
I  :  6,000,000.  A  glance  at  this  shows  Pike's  trail  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  the 
Re<l  r.  in  all  its  main  features  ;  and  though  many  desirable  details  are  neces- 
sarily lacking,  not  one  is  misleading. 


THE  ANCIENT  ADAIZANS.  71 3 

had  come  all  the  way  from  Chihuahua,  could  not  proceed, 
was  obliged  to  leave  him  here.  Yesterday  and  to-day  passed 
many  Choctaws,  whose  clothing,  furniture,  etc.,  evidently 
marked  the  superiority  of  situation  of  those  who  bordered 
on  our  frontiers,  to  that  of  the  naked,  half-starved  wretches 
whom  we  found  hanging  round  the  Spanish  settlements. 
Passed  a  string  of  huts,  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  our 
troops,  and  at  a  small  run  a  fortified  camp  but  half  a  mile 
from  the  hill  where  anciently  stood  the  village  Adyes 
[Adayes  on  the  map"  ].     We  proceeded  to   a   spring  where 

"  This  short  clause  brings  up  a  number  of  interesting  points.  The  hill  is 
among  the  slight  elevations  which  together  form  the  water-shed  between  the 
Sabine  and  Red  r.  This  rise  of  ground  corresponds  in  a  general  way  with  the 
boundary  between  Sabine  and  Nachitoches  cos.  in  Louisiana,  parting  the  num- 
berless and  mostly  unnamed  small  w.iters  which  make  on  either  hand  for  their 
respective  outlets  in  the  two  rivers.  Pike  is  already  on  the  Red  River  side,  among 
the  runs  which  discharge  into  the  body  of  water  known  .is  the  Sp.anish  1., 
and  which  finds  its  way  into  Red  r.  by  various  channels.  This  is  the  place 
where  "  anciently  stood,"  as  he  informs  us,  the  village  of  the  mysterious  tribe 
of  Indians  he  calls  Adyes  and  Adayes.  These  have  a  long  history  ;  but  the  lit- 
erature of  the  subject  is  mainly  a  presentation  of  our  ignorance.  Powell  says 
that  the  first  mention  of  them  occurs  in  the  Naufragios  of  Cabe9a  de  Vaca,  who 
calls  them  Atayos,  about  1540,  and  that  they  are  also  noted  by  various  early 
French  explorers  of  the  Mississippi,  as  d'Iberville  and  Joutel.  The  fortified 
camp  of  which  Pike  speaks  was  built  in  1715  and  known  as  the  Mission  of 
Adayes.  From  documents  preserved  in  San  Antonio  de  Hexar,  examined  by 
Mr.  A.  S.  Gatschet  in  1S86,  it  appears  that  14  Adai  families  emigrated  to  a 
place  S.  of  that  town  in  1792  ;  these  were  afterward  lost  sight  of.  According 
toBaudryde  Lozieres,  as  cited  by  Powell,  100  Adaizans  were  left  .at  home  in 
1802.  Turning  to  Sibley  (/.  c.  p.  42),  we  find  that  in  1805  there  were  20  men 
and  more  women  living  "  about40  miles  from  Natchitoches,  below  the  Yattassees 
[a  tribe  that  lived  on  Bayou  Pierre  or  Stony  creek],  on  a  lake  called  Lac  Macdon, 
which  communicated  with  the  division  of  Red  river  that  passes  by  Bayau  Pierre. 
They  live  at  or  near  where  their  ancestors  have  lived  from  time  immemorial. 
They  being  the  nearest  nation  to  the  old  Spanish  fort,  or  Mission  of  Adaize, 
that  place  was  named  after  them,  being  about  20  miles  from  them,  to  the  south." 
Dr.  Sibley  collected  a  vocabulary  of  about  250  words,  the  sole  basis  we  h.ave 
for  the  modern  scientific  classification  of  the  tribe,  upon  the  only  sure  principle 
of  natural  generation  as  indicated  by  mother-tongues.  "  Their  language  dif- 
fers from  all  others,"  says  Dr.  Sibley,  "  and  is  so  difficult  to  speak  or  under- 
stand, that  no  [other]  nation  can  speak  ten  words  of  it :  but  they  all  speak 
Caddo,  .and  most  of  them  French."  He  .adds  that  they  were  always  attached 
to  the  latter,  with  whom   they  sided  against   the   Natchez  ;  and  that   after  the 


714  NATCIITTOCIIES. 

we  halted  for  our  loads.  Finding  the  horses  much  fatigued, 
and  not  able  to  proceed,  we  left  them  and  baggage  and 
proceeded.     We  arrived  at  Natchitoches""  about  4  p.  m. 

Language  cannot  express  the  gayety  of  my  heart  when 
I  once  more  beheld  the  standard  of  my  country  waved 
aloft.  "  All  hail ! "  cried  I,  "  the  ever  sacred  name  of 
country,  in  which  is  embraced  that  of  kindred,  friends,  and 

Natchez  massacre  of  1798,  while  the  Spanish  occupied  Fort  Adaize,  the  priests 
took  much  pains  in  vain  to  make  them  believe  what  was  told  them  about  Cath- 
olic dogma.  This  is  practically  the  sum  of  what  is  known  of  these  evidently 
intelligent  and  manly  peo]ile  ;  the  rest  of  the  literature  is  mainly  the  conclusions 
reached  upon  the  subject  by  various  authors.  The  consensus  of  opinion  very 
properly  classifies  the  Adaize,  Adaizi,  Adaise,  Adaes,  Adees,  Adayes,  Adyes, 
Adahi,  or  Adai,  as  a  distinct  linguistic  stock,  lately  called  the  Adaizan  family, 
whose  afifinities,  more  or  less  remote,  are  with  the  Caddoan. 

^^  Natchitoches,  or  some  other  form  of  this  word,  was  originally  the  name  of 
a  certain  tribe  of  Indians  of  the  Southern  Caddoan  family,  and  of  the  island  on 
which  they  dwelt  in  Red  r.,  at  the  site  of  the  town  which  later  arose  there  and 
is  still  so  called.  We  hear  of  these  people  and  their  place  very  early  in  French 
colonial  history.  In  Sept.,  1688,  Henri  de  Tonti  was  visited  at  his  Fort  St. 
Louis  on  the  Illinois,  by  Couture,  one  of  his  men  whom  he  had  left  at  Arkansas 
Post  in  1686,  who  apprized  him  of  I-a  Salle's  tragic  death.  He  set  off  (he  says, 
in  Oct.,  1689 — probably  a  wrong  date  from  memory)  in  Dec,  16S8,  descended 
the  Illinois  and  Miss,  rivers  to  Red  r.,  and  went  up  this,  reaching  the  Natchi- 
toches Feb.  17th  and  the  Caddodaquis  Mar.  28th,  1689  :  so  Parkman's  La 
Salle,  etc. ,  p.  439.  He  was  told  that  some  of  the  assassins  or  those  in  the  plot 
to  murder  their  leader  were  at  a  village  of  the  Naou.adiches,  some  85  leagues 
S.  W.,  whither  he  went,  but  found  no  trace  of  Hiens  and  his  confederates. 
After  much  suffering,  including  an  illness  at  his  Arkansas  Post,  he  regained 
Fort  St.  Louis  Sept.,  1689  :  Wallace,  Hist.  111.  and  La.,  1893,  p.  188  si-^.  Ac- 
cording to  this  authority  the  present  town  dates  from  Jan.,  1717,  when  Antoine 
de  la  Mothe  Cadillac,  governor  of  Louisiana  under  Crozat,  sent  a  sergeant  and 
some  soldiers  to  establish  a  post  on  the  island,  which  was  commanded  in. 
1721-28  by  Louis  Juchereau  de  St.  Denis  (b.  Quebec,  Sept.  l8th,  1676,  d.  /c.r/ 
1 731).  This  notable  character,  uncle  of  D'Iberville's  wife,  Chevalier,  etc.,  is 
the  "  Mons.  St.  Dennie"of  Sibley's  notice  of  the  Natchitoches,  p.  49,  where  it 
is  said  he  was  still  in  command  after  the  Natchez  massacre  of  1728  ;  "  the  Indi- 
ans called  him  the  Big  Foot,  were  fond  of  him,  for  he  was  a  brave  man."  Ac- 
cording toGayarre,  Hist.  La.,  II.  p.  355,  the  foreign  population  of  Natchitoches 
w.as  811  by  a  census  made  under  Gov.  O'Reilly,  m.  1769,  or  when  the  French 
had  been  in  Louisiana  70  years.  .Sibley,  writing  at  N.atchitoches  Apr.  5th,  1805, 
says  that  an  elderly  p'rench  gentleman  then  living  had  shortly  before  informed 
him  that  the  informant  remembered  when  the  Natchitoches  were  600  men 
strong :  this  should  represent  ea.  3,000  total  souls. 


WHAT   LANGUAGE   FAILS   TO   EXPRESS.  715 

every  other  tie  which  is  dear  to  the  soul  of  man  ! "  Was 
affectionately  received  by  Colonel  Freeman,  Captains  Strong 
and  Woolstoncraft,  Lieutenant  Smith,  and  all  the  [other] 
officers  of  the  post."^ 

^'  Constant  Freeman  of  Massachusetts  had  been  a  captain  in  the  Revolutionary 
army  when  he  was  made  major  of  the  1st  Regiment  of  Artillerists  and  Engi- 
neers, Feb.  28th,  1795  ;  promoted  to  be  lieutenant-colonel  of  Artillerists,  Apr. 
1st,  1802  ;  transferred  to  corps  of  Artillery,  May  12th,  1814  ;  and  honorably  dis- 
charged June  15th,  1815  ;  he  had  been  brevetted  colonel  July  loth,  1812,  and 
he  died  Feb.  27th,  1824. 

Elijah  Strong  of  Connecticut  was  an  ensign  of  the  1st  sub-Legion  Feb.  23d, 
1793  ;  lieutenant,  July  1st,  1794  ;  transferred  to  1st  Infantry,  Nov.  1st,  1796  ; 
captain,  Oct.  23d,  1799  ;  major,  7th  Infantry,  Dec.  15th,  1808  ;  and  died  June 
9th,  1811. 

Charles  WoUstonecraft  of  England  was  appointed  from  Pennsylvania  to  be 
a  lieutenant  of  the  2d  Artillerists  and  Engineers,  June  4th,  1798  ;  he  became 
a  lieutenant  of  Artillerists,  Apr.  1st,  1802  ;  captain.  Mar.  15th,  1805  ;  was 
transferred  to  the  corps  of  Artillery,  May  12th,  1814  ;  on  the  15th  of  March, 
1S15,  he  was  brevetted  major  for  10  years'  faithful  service  in  one  grade,  and 
Sept.  28th,  1817,  he  died. 

Thomas  A.  Smith  of  Virginia  was  appointed  from  Georgia  a  second  lieutenant 
of  Artillerists,  Dec.  15th,  1803  ;  became  first  lieutenant,  Dec.  31st,  1805,  and 
captain  of  Rifles,  May  3d,  1808  ;  he  was  a  brigadier  general  in  1814,  resigned 
Nov.  loth,  1818,  and  died  in  a  few  weeks. 


7i6 


FRAGMENT   OF   A   WEATHER   DIARY. 


Meteorological  Observations  made  by  Captain  Pike  during  a 
Tour  through  the  Internal  Provinces  of  Ne^u  Spain,  in  the 
year    1807."* 


[Reaumur's]  Thermometer. 

Wind. 

Date. 

Sky. 

sun-rise. 

3  p.  m. 

sun-set. 

Course. 

Force. 

Mar.  3 

4 

cloudy  and  snow 

W 

fresh 

4 

2 

snow 

E 

do. 

5 

4 

clear 

NW 

gentle 

6 

2 

cloudy  and  snow 

N 

do. 

7 

1 

hail 

N 

8 

3 

cloudy 

W 

g 

3 

4 

clear 

\V 

10 

0 

6 

hail  and  snow 

sw 

II 

1 

6 

w 

fresh 

12 

3 

3 

w 

gentle 

>4 

I 

.... 

N 

fresh 

3 

'  e' 

cloudy 

SW 

15 

0 

6 

w 

x6 

7 

2 

clear 

s  w 

gentle 

17 

45» 

7 

E 

18 

6 

6 

E 

fresh 

19 

2 

7 

20 

"e"' 

21 

g 

clear  and  cold 

22 

snow  and  hail 

SE 

23 

24 

2 

"e' 

clear 

'e' 

gentle 

25 

do. 

26 

I 

"e' 

do. 

'e' 

gentle 

27 

1 

do. 

S 

fresh 

j8 

2 

"a' 

do. 

s 

gentle 

29 

31 

2 
I 
5 

14 

9 
4 
11 

N 
N 
W 

fresh 
gentle 

Apr.  4 

'3 

16 

rs 

.... 

5 

14 

17 

15 

.... 

s 

6 

>5 

16 

'4 

.... 

7 

13 

15 

16 

cloudy 

8 

>4 

16 

17 

9 

13 

17 

15 

10 

14 

16 

■4 

11 

■5 

i8 

15 

12 

13 

19 

17 

. .  ■  ■ 

■3 

14 

17 

18 

light  snow 

.... 

14 

■5 

19 

15 

15 

14 

20 

18 

16 

'3 

18 

16 

»7 

16 

20 

15 

l8 

■7 

ig 

16 

19 

i3 

i3 

■5 

20 

•5 

i3 

16 

21 

14 

>3 

15 

.... 

32 

16 

18 

16 

S3 

15 

»9 

•9 

.... 

34 

13 

19 

16 

=5 

15 

19 

16 

clear 

26 

■4 

18 

17 

27 

>5 

19 

17 

.... 

28 

14 

17 

16 

29 

■5 

24 

20 

.... 

3° 

■5 

20 

'*  In  the  orig.  ed.  this  weather  di.iry  occupied  an  unpaged  leaf  following 
p.  278  of  the  main  text  of  Pt.  3,  being  thus  pp.  279,  280.  I  leave  it  in  the 
same  relative  position,  and  pass  it  without  further  remark. 


FRAGMENT  OF  A   WEATHER  DIARY.  717 

Meteorological  Observations  made  by  Captain  Pike  (Continued). 


Date. 

[Reaumur's]  Thermometer. 

c 

.1,.. 

Wind. 

sun-rise. 

3  p.  m. 

sun-set. 

on.  jr. 

Course. 

Force. 

May  I 

II 

3 

12 

24 

17 

3 

15 

23 

16 

some  rain 

4 

14 

24 

17 

clear 

.... 

5 

17 

2? 

16 

W 

6 

17 

28K 

16 

s 

7 

14 

29 

IS 

sw 

8 

12 

27 

15 

w 

g 

9 

26 

20 

10 

II 

24 

17 

w* 

II 

=5 

.... 

12 

15 

27 

13 

=7 

20 

.... 

'e' 

14 

10 

30 

20 

sw 

15 

II 

325^ 

clear 

SE 

16 

25 

cloudy 

S 

17 

23 

20 

some  raiu 

18 

20 

24 

21K 

rain 

19 

^0% 

15 

cloudy 

*E* 

gentle 

20 

13 

24 

some  rain 

.... 

21 

22 

19 

cloudy 

22 

.... 

24 

rainy  morning 

23 

15 

23 

'5 

clear 

*w' 

24 

14 

22 

21 

25 

16 

24 

23 

26 

15 

23 

22 

cloudy  and  rain 

w* 

27 

14 

21 

18 

rain 

28 

15 

23 

»5 

cloudy 

s' 

29 

19 

do. 

3° 

30 

20 

do. 

31 

23 

27 

25 

do. 

"s" 

June  I 

17 

3 



2 

25 

cloudy 

SE 

3 

.... 

26 

.... 

4 

30 

CHAPTER  IV. 

OBSERVATIONS   ON   NEW   SPAIN.' 

'^'HE  kingdom  of  New  Spain'  lies  between  i6°  and  44° 
^  N.  lat.,  and  96*  and  118°  W.  long.  It  is  divided  into 
two  separate  and  independent  governments,  and  these 
again  into  various  subdivisions. 

'  Chapter  IV.,  which  I  introduce  to  accommodate  Pike's  Observations  on  New 
Spain,  as  the  article  may  be  briefly  entitled,  consists  of  the  leading  piece  of 
the  App.  to  Pt.  3  of  the  orig.  ed.,  pp.  1-51  ;  it  had  no  number,  but  as  it 
came  first  and  was  followed  by  a  piece  presented  as  No.  2,  it  is  of  course  to  be 
taken  as  No.  \,pro  forma.  The  original  heading  was:  Geographical,  Sta- 
tistical, and  General  Observations  made  by  Capt.  Z.  M.  Pike,  on  the  Interior 
Provinces  of  New  Spain,  from  Louisiana  to  the  Vice  Royalty,  and  between  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  Gulph  of  California  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean  or  Gulph  of 
Mexico.  This  was  by  far  the  most  important  article  in  the  whole  work, 
bringing  news  of  great  public  interest  in  l8io.  Much  of  it  was  original  ;  how 
much  of  it  was  borrowed  without  acknowledgement  could  only  be  said  after 
careful  e.xamination  of  prior  works  on  the  same  subject.  It  should  be  com- 
pared with  Humboldt  and  Bonpland's  Political  Essay  on  the  Kingdom  of  New 
Spain,  with  a  Physical  and  Geographical  Atlas,  etc.,  2  vols.,  4to,  with  atlas, 
folio,  of  20  plates.  Pike's  two  maps  of  Mexico  will  be  best  understood  in 
connection  with  the  same  source  of  information  :  see  Memoir,  aniea. 

'  Nueva  Espaiia  (New  Spain)  is  a  term  whose  geographical  and  political 
connotation  has  varied  much.  As  the  colonial  name  of  what  we  call  Mexico  it 
was  first  applied  to  Yucatan  and  Tabasco  by  Grijalva,  in  1518,  and  next  ex- 
tended to  all  the  Cortesiaii  conquests.  The  kingdom  of  New  Spain  proper 
was  a  region  under  the  audience  of  Mexico,  which  corresponded  closely  to  the 
modern  states  of  Yucatan,  Campeche,  Tabasco,  Vera  Cruz,  Hidalgo,  Guana- 
juato, Michoacan,  Colima,  Mexico,  Morelos,  Tlascala,  Puebla,  Guerrero, 
Oajaca,  and  Chiapas.  The  viceroyalty  of  New  Spain,  dating  from  1535, 
when  the  first  viceroy,  Mendoza,  entered  in  possession,  was  much  more  com- 
prehensive, as  it  embraced  all  the  Spanish  possessions  in  Central  and  North 
America,  from  the  S.  boundary  of  Costa  Rica,  as  well  as  the  West  Indies  and 
the  Spanish  East  Indies.  Its  political  composition  w.is  the  five  audiences  of 
Mexico,  Guadalajara,  Guatemala,  Santo  Domingo,  and  Manila,  and  the  cap- 
taincy-general of  Florida.  During  the  eighteenth  century  the  East  Indies  and 
Guatemala    were  excluded   from   the   viceroyalty.      The    viceroyalty   of    New 

718 


THE   VICEROYALTY   OF   NEW   SPAIN. 


719 


I.  The  viceroyalty  includes  : 

I.  The  administration  of  Guadalaxara,'  which  lies  between 
18°  30'  and  24°  30'  N.  lat.,  and  104°  and  109°  W.  long.,  and 
is  bounded  south  and  west  by  the  South  Sea,  north  by  the 

Spain,  as  the  term  was  most  generally  used,  long  consisted  of  the  three 
■'  kingiioms  "  of  New  Spain,  New  Galicia,  and  New  Leon.  This  corresponded 
to  modern  Me.xico,  plus  then  undefined  territories  of  Texas,  New  Mexico,  and 
California,  now  parts  of  the  United  States.  On  the  separation  in  1793  of  the 
Provincias  Internas  or  Internal  Provinces,  the  viceroyalty  of  New  Spain  cor- 
responded to  the  present  Mexico,  plus  the  Californias,  but  minus  southern 
Coahuila,  Durango,  Sinaloa,  Chihuahua,  and  Sonora.  Spanish  viceroyalty 
ceased  in  1821,  but  "  New  Spain"  was  not  finally  "  Mexico"  till  1824  (during 
the  Empire  under  Iturbide,  1822-28).  The  term  "  Provincias  Internas"  was 
vaguely  used,  as  early  as  the  seventeenth  century,  for  the  northern  parts  of  New 
Spain  or  Mexico.  "  In  1777  (by  order  of  Aug.  22,  1776)  a  new  government  was 
formed  under  this  name,  comjiletely  separated  from  the  viceroyalty  of  New 
Spain,  and  comprising  Nueva  Vizcaya  (  [New  Biscay]  Durango  and  Chihuahua), 
Coahuila,  Texas,  New  Mexico,  Sinaloa,  Sonora,  and  the  Californias.  The 
Capital  was  Arizpe  in  Sonora,  and  the  audience  of  Guadalajara  retained  its 
judicial  authority  ;  the  governor  was  also  military  commandant.  In  1786  and 
1787-93  the  government  was  again  subordinate  to  the  viceroy.  When  the  final 
separation  was  made  in  1793,  California  was  attached  to  Mexico,"  Cent.  Cyclop., 
1894,  J.  v.,  p.  828.  This  last  "New  Spain"  is  Pike's;  and  the  present 
article  is  mainly  devoted  to  the  Provincias  Internas  of  this  New  Spain — except- 
ing that  nothing  is  said  of  the  Californias. 

'  El  Reino  de  Nueva  Galicia,  or  New  Galicia,  was  a  prime  division  of  colo- 
nial New  Spain,  whose  limits  fluctuated,  like  those  of  most  Mexican  political 
divisions,  but  for  most  of  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries  corresponded 
nearly  to  the  modern  states  of  Jalisco,  Aguas  Calientes,  and  Zacatecas,  plus  a 
small  part  of  San  Luis  Potosi.  The  audience  of  Guadalajara,  originating  in 
1548,  had  jurisdiction  over  this  Nueva  Galicia  ;  in  1786  the  latter  became  the 
intendency  of  Guadalajara ;  and  after  1792  the  Provincias  Internas  were 
judicially  subordinate  to  the  audience  of  Guadalajara.  Pike's  "administration 
of  Guadalaxara  "  corresponds  inexactly  to  the  present  State  of  Jalisco  or  Xalisco. 
This  lies  on  the  Pacific  coast,  bordered  by  tlie  states  of  Sinaloa,  Durango, 
Zacatecas,  Aguas  Calientes,  Guanajuato,  Michoacan,  and  Colima  ;  area,  27,261 
sq.  m.;  pop.,  1,280,500;  capital,  Guadalajara.  The  situation  of  this  city  is 
lat.  21°  N.,  long.  103°  10'  W. ;  it  was  founded  in  1542,  and  is  now  the  second 
largest  city  in  Mexico,  pop.  95,000.  That  "one  of  the  Gusman  family,"  who 
Pike  says  built  it  "  in  1551  "  was  probably  Nuno  or  Nunez  Bertrande  Guzman, 
b.  Guadalajara  (in  Spain)  about  1485,  d.  there  1544  ;  he  was  the  enemy  of 
Cortes,  and  the  conqueror  of  New  Galicia.  Rio  Grande  de  Santiago  is  the 
largest  river  in  the  state,  and  Lago  de  Chapala,  which  lies  mostly  within  its 
limits,  is  the  largest  lake  in  Mexico  ;  area,  over  1,300  sq.  in. 


■J20  GUADALAJARA — VALLADOLID. 

provinces  of  Biscay  [Nueva  Viscaya]  and  Sinaloa ;  N.  E. 
by  the  administration  of  Zacatecas ;  E.  by  the  administra- 
tion of  Guanaxuato,  and  S.  E.  by  that  of  Valladolid.  It  is 
350  miles  in  length  from  northwest  to  southeast,  and  250 
in  width  east  and  west.  Its  population  may  be  estimated 
at  100,000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  luxuriant  and  rich  admin- 
istrations in  the  viceroyalty ;  and  is  watered  from  east  to 
west  by  the  great  river  de  Santego  [Rio  Grande  de  San- 
tiago], which  receives  most  of  its  waters  from  Lac  [Lago] 
de  Chapala.  Guadalaxara,  the  capital,  was  built  by  one  of 
the  Gusman  family  in  1551,  and  in  1570  the  bishopric  was 
removed  from  Compostela  to  that  place.  It  is  the  seat  of 
the  audience  of  Guadalaxara,  which  includes  Guadalaxara 
and  the  administration  of  Zacatecas.  The  population  of 
this  city  may  be  estimated  at  75,CXX) ;  it  stands  in  N.  lat. 
20°  50',  W.  long.  105°. 

2.  The  administration  of  Valladolid '  lies  between  22°  10' 
and  18°  12'  N.  lat.,  and  102°  and  105°  W.  long.,  and  is 
bounded  south  by  the  South  sea  [Pacific  ocean]  and  part  of 
Mexico,  east  and  northeast  by  the  latter,  and  north  by  that 
of  Guanaxuato.  Its  greatest  length  from  northeast  to  south- 
west is  230  miles,  and  its  greatest  width,  east  and  west,  190 
miles.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  360,000.  Its 
capital  of  the  same  name  is  situated  in  about  20"  N.  lat., 
103°  25"  W.  long.     Population  unknown. 

3.  The  administration  of  Mexico'  lies  between  21°  30' 

*  Valladolid  was  the  name  of  an  old  Castilian  province  in  Spain,  and  of  the 
capital  of  that  province  ;  it  was  applied  to  a  political  division  in  Mexico 
which  has  entirely  disappeared,  though  corresponding  to  some  extent  to  the 
present  State  of  Michoacan.  The  capital  of  this  was  also  called  Valladolid  until 
182S,  when  it  was  changed  to  present  Morelia,  in  honor  of  the  patriot  priest 
Jose  Maria  Morelos  y  Pavon,  b.  there  Sept.  30th,  1765  ;  joined  the  revolt  of 
Hidalgo,  1810 ;  was  captured  Nov.  15th,  1815  ;  executed  Dec.  22d,  1815, 
near  the  City  of  Mexico. 

'  This  administration  has  been  so  changed  and  subdivided  that  it  is  not  easily 
compared  in  a  word  with  existing  divisions  which  represent  its  former  extent. 
In  general  tenns  it  was  a  south  central  portion  of  Mexico  with  an  extensive 
Pacific  coast  line,  but  cut  off  from  the  Atlantic  by  Vera  Cruz  iind  Puebla,  and 
bordered  on  the  N.  by  San  Luis  Potosi,  etc.     The  present  State  of  Mexico  is 


MEXICO — OAXACA.  72 1 

and  iG^  30'  N.  lat.,  and  99^  and  105°  W.  long.,  and  is 
bounded  south  by  the  South  Sea,  east  by  the  governments 
of  La  Puebla  and  La  Vera  Cruz,  north  by  that  of  St.  Louis, 
and  west  by  Valladolid  and  Guanaxuato.  Its  greatest 
length,  north  and  south,  may  be  360  miles,  and  its  greatest 
width,  which  is  on  the  Western  Ocean,  is  200  miles.  Its 
population  may  be  estimated  at  1,500,000  souls.  The  cap- 
ital of  this  administration,  and  of  the  whole  kingdom,  is 
Mexico  ;  a  particular  description  of  which  is  deemed  unnec- 
essary. From  every  information  I  could  obtain  from  per- 
sons who  had  resided  in  it  for  years,  it  does  not  contain 
more  than  200,000  inhabitants.  Its  being  the  residence  of 
the  viceroy,  whose  court  is  more  splendid  than  that  at 
Madrid  ;  its  central  position  as  to  the  ports  of  Acapulco 
and  Vera  Cruz  ;  together  with  the  rich  and  luxuriant  vale 
which  surrounds  it,  will,  whenever  the  Spanish  Americans 
burst  the  present  bonds  of  slavery  in  which  they  are  bound, 
give  to  Mexico  all  those  advantages  which  great  wealth,  a 
large  population,  and  a  commanding  situation  concentrate, 
and  assuredly  make  it  one  of  the  greatest  cities  in  the 
world.  In  point  of  population,  it  is  now  in  the  second 
rank,  and  in  beauty,  riches,  magnificence,  and  splendor,  in 
the  first. 

4.  The  administration  of  Oxaca  [Oaxaca  or  Oajaca']  lies 
between  18°  and  16°  N.  lat.,  and  98°  and  112°  W.  long., 
and  is  bounded  south  by  the  South  Sea,  west  by  the  gov- 
ernment of  La  Puebla,  north  by  Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz, 

an  area  of  somewhat  over  g,ooo  sq.  m.,  bounded  by  Queretaro,  Hidalgo, 
Tlascala,  Puebla,  Morelos,  Guerrero,  and  Michoacan.  Its  capital  is  Toluca  ;  for 
the  City  of  Mexico,  capital  of  the  republic,  is  in  a  small  Federal  District  set 
apart  from  the  rest  of  the  state  (like  our  District  of  Columbia),  with  an  area  of 
only  463  sq.  m.  The  pop.  of  the  present  State  of  Mexico  is  about  830,000  ; 
the  capital  city  of  the  republic  has  a  pop.  of  330,000  ;  its  situation  is  lat.  19° 
25'  45  '  N.,  long.  99°  7'  i3"  W.,  at  an  alt.  of  about  7,500  feet. 

'The  present  State  of  Oajaca  has  an  extensive  Pacific  coast-line  on  the  S., 
Guerrero  and  a  small  part  of  Puebla  on  the  W. ,  Puebla  and  Vera  Cruz  on  the 
N.,  Vera  Cruz  and  Chiapas  on  the  E.;  area,  about  28,800  sq.  m. ;  pop.  about 
816,000.  The  capital  city  of  the  same  name  is  on  the  Rio  Verde  or  Atoyac, 
about  200  m.  S.  E.  of  the  City  of  Mexico  ;  pop.  29,000. 


722  VERA   CRUZ — PUEBLA. 

and  east  by  the  province  of  Gualamalia  [Guatemala].  Its 
greatest  length,  east  and  west,  is  230  miles,  and  its  width, 
north  and  south,  175  miles.  Its  population  may  be  esti- 
mated at  520,000  souls.  Its  capital  is  Oxaca,  in  17°  30'  N. 
lat.,  99°  25'  W.  long. 

5.  The  administration  of  Vera  Cruz'  lies  between  17° 
and  22°  N.  lat.,  and  98"  and  101 '^  W.  long.,  and  is  bounded 
north  and  east  by  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  south  by  Oxaca,  west 
by  Puebla  and  Mexico.  Its  greatest  length,  N.  W.  and  S. 
E.,  is  430  miles,  and  its  width,  E.  and  W.,  not  more  than 
60  miles.  Its  population  maybe  estimated  at  220,000.  Its 
capital  is  Vera  Cruz,  which  is  the  sole  port  of  entry  for  all 
the  kingdom  on  the  Atlantic  ocean,  as  that  of  Acapulco  is 
on  the  Western.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  30,000 
souls,  and  is  in  19°  10'  N.  lat.  and  98°  30'  W.  long.  This 
city  was  taken  and  sacked  by  the  English  on  the  17th  of 
May,  1683,  since  which  the  works  for  its  defense  [present 
Castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua]  have  been  made  so  very 
strong  as  almost  to  bid  defiance  to  an  attack  from  the  sea. 

6.  The  administration  de  la  Puebla"  lies  between  20°  and 

'  Vera  Cruz  is  the  long,  narrow  maritime  state  of  Mexico,  with  the  Gulf  on 
the  E.,  Tamaulipas  on  the  N.,  and  then  bordered  on  the  W.,  S.,  and  E.,  suc- 
cessively, by  San  Luis  Potosi,  Hidalgo,  Puebla,  Oajaca,  Chiapas,  and  Tabasco. 
The  land  is  low  along  the  Gulf,  or  in  the  t'uira  ca/u-iite,  but  soon  rises  to  the 
mountainous  tu-rra  fria  of  most  of  the  state.  The  whole  area  is  27,450  sq. 
m.;  pop.  642,000.  The  long-famous  seaport  of  Vera  Cruz  is  the  principal  city, 
pop.  24,000,  in  lat.  19°  12'  N.,  long.  96°  9'  E.  This  was  founded  near  the 
present  site  by  Cortes  in  May,  1519,  by  the  name  of  Villa  Rica  de  la  Vera 
Cruz  ;  site  changed  to  the  Rio  de  la  Antigua  in  1525  ;  to  present  position  in 
1599  :  became  City  of  Vera  Cruz  in  1615  ;  was  taken  by  the  French  in  1838, 
by  the  Americans  in  184S,  by  the  Allies  in  1S61.  The  celebrated  Picacho  of 
Orizaba,  10  m.  N.  of  Orizaba,  alt.  18,314  feet,  is  on  the  boundary  between 
Vera  Cruz  and  Puebla.  This  is  the  highest  mountain  of  N.  America,  except 
Wt.  St.  Elias. 

*  Present  State  of  Puebla  is  entirely  cut  off  from  the  sea,  being  wedged  in 
among  Vera  Cruz  on  the  E.,  Oajaca  on  the  S.,  Guerrero  on  the  S.  W.,  and 
Morelos,  Mexico,  Tlascala,  and  Hidalgo,  on  the  W.;  area  12,740  sq.  m.;  pop. 
lately,  845,000  ;  capital,  La  Puebla  de  los  Angeles,  so  called  from  a  pious 
taradiddle  ;  pop.  about  110,000  ;  it  is  a  very  old  city,  founded  about  1530,  and 
was  taken  by  the  French  in   1863.       The  famous  peak  of    Popocatepetl,  01 


GUANAJUATO — ZACATECAS.  723 

16°  N.  lat.,  and  100"  and  102°  W.  long.,  and  is  bounded 
south  by  the  South  sea,  east  by  Oxaca  and  Vera  Cruz, 
north  and  west  by  Mexico  ;  it  is  near  300  miles  in  its 
greatest  length  from  north  to  south,  and  120  in  its  greatest 
width  from  east  to  west.  Its  population  may  be  estimated 
at  800,000  souls.  Its  capital  is  the  city  of  La  Puebla,  esti- 
mated at  80,000  souls,  which  is  in  19'  12'  N.  lat.,  and  100° 
50'  W.  long. 

7.  The  administration  of  Guanaxuato  [or  Guanajuato"] 
lies  between  21°  30'  and  23°  30'  N.  lat.,  and  103"  and  105" 
W.  long.,  and  is  bounded  south  by  Valladolid,  east  by 
Mexico,  south  by  St.  Louis  [and]  Zacataca,  and  west  by 
Guadalaxara.  Its  greatest  extent,  from  north  to  south,  is 
75  miles,  and  from  east  to  west,  85.  Its  population  may 
be  estimated  at  500,000  souls.  Its  capital  city  is  Guana- 
xuato, in  lat.  21°  N.,  long.  103°  W. 

8.  The  administration  of  Zacataca  [Zacatecas '"]  lies  be- 
tween 21°  20'  and  24"  52'  N.  lat.,  and  103°  and  105°  30' 
W.  long.,  and  is  bounded  north  by  the  internal  province  of 
Biscay,  east  by  St.  Louis,  west  by  Guadalaxara,  and  south  by 
Guanaxuato.  Its  greatest  length  is  210  miles,  north  and 
south,  and  its  greatest  width  is  145  miles,  from  cast  to  west. 
Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  250,250  souls.  The 
capital,  Zacataca,  stands  in  23°  N.  lat.  and  104"  W.  long. 

9.  The  administration  of  St.  Louis  [San  Luis  Potosi "] 

Smoking  mt..  a  volcano  about  17,800  feet  high,  is  on  the  boundary  between 
this  state  and  Mexico,  45  m.  S.  E.  of  the  city  of  the  latter  name  ;  and  N.  of 
that  peak  is  another  volcano,  IxtaccihuatI  or  the  "  Woman  in  \Yhitc,"  over 
i6,ooo  feet  high. 

'  Guanajuato  is  a  small  central  state,  surrounded  by  Zacatecas,  San  I.uis 
Potosi,  Queretaro,  Michoacan,  Jalisco,  and  Agiias  Calicntes  ;  area,  11,370  sq. 
m.,  pop.  over  1,000,000;  capital  of  same  name,  about  lat.  21°  i'  N.,  long. 
100°  35'  W. ;  pop.   52,000. 

'"  Zacatecas  has  altered  less  than  some  of  the  administrations,  the  present 
state  being  bounded  N.  by  Coahuila,  N.  and  N.  W.  by  Dnrango,  W.  and  S. 
W.  and  S.  by  Jalisco,  S.  by  Aguas  Calientes,  E.  by  San  I.uis  Potosi  ;  area, 
25,230  sq.  m.;  pop.  585,640;  capital  of  same  name,  about  lat.  22°  40'  N., 
pop.  about  60,000. 

"  Pike's  "  St.  Louis  "  corresponds,  though  inexactly,  to  present  State  of  San 


724  SAN   LUIS  POTOSI — NUEVO   SANTANDER. 

lies  between  21°  20'  and  28°  50'  N.  lat.,  and  99"  and  I02° 
W.  long.,  includes  Texas  and  St.  Ander  [Nuevo  Santander] 
in  this  dimension,  and  is  bounded  north  by  New  Leon, 
east  by  the  province  of  St.  Ander,  south  by  Guanaxuato 
and  Mexico,  and  west  by  Zacataca.  Its  greatest  length 
from  north  to  south  is  200,  and  its  width  from  east  to  west 
is  170  miles.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  311,500 
souls.  Its  capital  is  St.  Louis  de  Potosi,  the  population  of 
which  is  60,000 ;  it  stands  in  22°  N.  lat.,  103°  W.  long., 
and  was  founded  in  1568  [1576]. 

II.  The  province  of  Nuevo  San  Ander  [Santander "]  is 
bounded  north  by  the  province  of  Texas,  west  by  Nuevo 
Leon  and  Cogquillo  [Coahuila],  south  by  St.  Louis,  and 
east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean  ;  from  north  to  south  it  is  about 
500  miles  in  length,  but  from  east  to  west  not  more  than 
150.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  38,000  souls. 
The  capital.  New  San  Ander  [Nuevo  SantanderJ,  is  on  the 
river  of  that  name  [also  known  as  the  Rio  Jimenez,  and 
Rio  de  las  Palmas],  about  40  miles  from  the  sea,  in  23°  45' 
N.  lat.  and  101°  W.  long. 

III.  The   kingdom    of    New   Leon    [Nuevo   Leon "]    is 

Luis  Potos{,  lying  among  Nuevo  Leon,  Tamaulipas,  and  a  small  extent  of 
Vera  Cruz  on  the  E.,  Zacatecas  on  the  W.,  Coahuila  on  the  N.,  and  Guana- 
juato, Queretaro,  and  Hidalgo  on  the  S. ;  area,  24,450  sq.  m.;  pop.  about 
550,500  ;  capital  of  the  same  name,  223  m.  N.  N.  W.  of  City  of  Mexico  ; 
pop.  62,600. 

"  Nuevo  Santander,  whose  history  is  something  of  a  political  curiosity,  was 
originally  a  division  of  colonial  New  Spain,  and  continued  to  be  known  as  a 
colony  until  1786.  The  extent  was  about  that  of  the  present  State  of  Tamau- 
lipas, bounded  substantially  as  Pike  says,  though  it  once  overreached  the  Rio 
Grande  into  what  is  now  Texas.  Tamaulipas  h.is  Texas  on  the  N.,  separated 
by  the  Rio  Grande  ;  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  E. ;  Nuevo  Leon  and  Coahuila 
on  the  W.;  San  Luis  Potosi  on  the  S.  W.  and  S.;  with  a  small  extent  of  Vera 
Cruz  on  the  extreme  S.;  area,  29,350  sq-  "'■>  r°P-  1^°"'  173,000;  capital, 
Cuidad  Victoria.  The  river,  on  one  of  whose  headwaters  this  city  is  situated, 
falls  into  the  Gulf  near  the  Barra  de  Santander,  as  it  is  still  called,  about  60 
Mexican  leagues  S.  of  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and  rather  less  than  40 
such  leagues  N.  of  Tampico  ;  its  length  is  supposed  to  be  about  150  m. 

"  Or  Nuevo  Reino  de  Leon,  as  it  was  long  styled.  This  was  a  division  of 
colonial  New  Spain,  corresponding  to  the  present  State  of  Nuevo  Leon,  but. 


NUEVO   REINO   DE   LEON.  725 

bounded  east  by  New  San  Ander,  north  by  Cogquilla, 
west  by  Biscay,  and  south  by  St.  Louis  and  Zacataca ;  its 
greatest  length  north  and  south  is  250  miles;  width,  east 
and  west,  100  miles.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at 
30,ocx)  souls.  Its  capital,  Mont  El  Roy  [Monterey],  is  situ- 
ated on  the  headwaters  of  Tiger  river,  which  discharges 
into  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  The  city  of  Mont  El  Rey  con- 
tains about  11,000  souls,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  bishop, 
Don  Dio  Premiro,  who  visited  the  port  of  Natchitoches 
when  it  was  commanded  by  Captain  Turner,  of  the  2d  U. 
S.  regiment  of  infantry.  His  episcopal  jurisdiction  extends 
over  Nuevo  San  Ander,  New  Leon,  Cogquilla,  and  Texas, 
and  his  salary  is  equal  to  $100,000  per  annum.  Mont  El 
Rey  is  situated  in  26°  N.  lat.  and  102°  W.  long.  There  are 
many  rich  mines  near  the  city  of  Mont  El  Rey,  whence,  I 
am  informed,  there  are  taken  to  be  coined  100  mule-loads 
of  bullion  in  silver  and  gold  monthly,  which  may  be  pre- 
sumed to  be  not  more  than  the  three-fifths  of  what  is  taken 
from  the  mines,  as  there  are  many  persons  who  prefer  never 

when  a  kingdom,  including  certain  portions  of  what  are  now  Tamaulipas  and 
San  Luis  Potosi ;  it  was  attached  to  the  intendency  of  the  latter  in  1786.  New 
Leon  still  has  Tamaulipas  along  the  whole  of  its  E.  border,  excepting  that 
its  northern  panhandle  is  environed  by  Coahuila,  which  thence  extends  on  its 
W.  side  to  San  Luis  Potosi,  which  latter  thence  curves  to  meet  Tamaulip.is  at 
the  end  of  the  southern  panhandle.  The  shape  of  some  of  the  Mexican  states 
would  show,  in  the  absence  of  all  history,  that  earthquakes  and  volcanoes  were 
not  the  only  agitations  against  which  New  Spain  contended  in  the  settling  of 
some  of  her  geographical  problems.  Area  of  New  Leon,  24,000  sq.  m. ;  pop. 
272,000;  capital,  Monterey:  for  Pike's  location  of  Monterey  on  "Tiger"  r., 
see  note",  p.  682,  May  i8th,  1807.  The  position  of  this  city  is  about  lat. 
25°  40'  N.,  long.  100°  25'  W. ;  pop.  46,000  ;  it  is  best  known  to  us  as  a  prize 
captured  by  the  U.  S.  forces  under  Z.  Taylor,  Sept.  23d,  1846.  The  Count  of 
Monterey  w.is  one  Caspar  de  Zuniga  y  Azevedo,  b.  en.  1540,  d.  Lima,  Peru, 
Feb.  loth,  1606,  viceroy  of  Mexico,  Oct.  5th,  1595-1603,  of  Peru,  Nov.  28th, 
1604,  till  death  ;  Monterey  b.-iy,  Cal.,  named  for  him.  The  American  officer 
whom  Pike  names  was  E<I\vard  D.  Turner  of  Massachusetts,  who  entered  the 
army  as  an  ensign  of  the  2d  Inf.  Mar.  4th,  1791  ;  became  a  lieuten.int  July  I3'h, 
1792:  captain  of  the  2d  sub-Legion  Nov.  nth,  1793,  and  of  the  2d  Inf. 
Nov.  1st,  1796  ;  served  as  brigade  inspector  from  Nov.  1st,  1799,  to  Apr.  1st, 
1802  ;  was  retained  as  a  captain  of  the  1st  Inf.  from  the  latter  date,  and 
resigned  Nov.  30th,  1805. 


726  RECAPITULATION   OF  THE   FOREGOING. 

getting  their  metal  coined,  as  then  it  is  not  so  easily  ascer- 
tained what  they  are  worth,  which  is  an  all-important  secret 
in  a  despotic  government. 

The  foregoing  nine  administrations  or  intendencias,  the 
province  of  Nuevo  San  Ander,  and  the  kingdom  of  [Nuevo] 
Leon,  are  included  in  the  two  audiences  of  Guadalaxara 
and  Mexico,  and  form,  as  I  believe,  the  whole  political  gov- 
ernment of  the  viceroy  of  Mexico ;  but  I  am  not  positive 
whether  his  jurisdiction  does  not  include  the  audience  of 
Guatimalia  [Guatemala],  which  lies  to  the  south,  and  in- 
cludes the  province  of  that  name,  that  of  Chiapa  [Chiapas], 
Yucatan,  Veraqua  [Veragua],  Costa  Rica,  and  Honduras. 
An  audience  is  the  high  court  of  appeals  in  which  the 
viceroy  presides  and  has  two  votes;  it  is  intended  as  a 
check  on  his  power  and  authority. 

The  administrations  are  governed  by  intendants,  who  are 
ofitiers  of  high  rank,  and  always  Europeans. 

The  longitude  given  is  from  the  meridian  of  Paris. 

In  the  general  view  of  New  Spain,"  I  shall  take  some 
notice  of  the  manners,  customs,  political  force,  etc.,  of  the 
viceroyalty;  but,  as  I  do  not  pretend  to  be  correctly 
informed  as  to  that  quarter  of  the  kingdom,  and  there  have 
been  so  many  persons  who  have  given  statements  on  those 
heads,  I  shall  confine  my  observations  principally  to  the 
internal  provinces  through  which  I  passed,  and  on  which  I 
made  my  observations. 

"  This  comes  at  the  end  of  the  present  dissertation,  when  Pike  has  finished 
with  his  account  of  tlie  Internal  Provinces,  to  which  he  now  proceeds.  Two  of 
these,  Sonora  and  Sinaloa,  are  "internal"  to  the  extent  of  liordering  on  the 
Gulf  of  California  and  not  on  the  high  sea.  These  he  never  saw  ;  those  he 
traversed  correspond  to  the  present  three  Mexican  states  of  C:hihuahua,  Pu- 
rango,  and  Coahuila,  and  to  our  Territory  of  New  Mexico,  .State  of  Texas,  and 
a  small  p.art  of  the  State  of  Louisiana.  Most  of  the  commentary  that  would 
otherwise  be  here  orfcred  has  already  been  put  upon  Pike's  itinerary  through 
these  regions  ;  but  some  points  will  come  up  for  further  criticism  or  explanation. 


NEW   MEXICO — GEOGRAPHY.  727 


INTERNAL  PROVINCES. 

I.  New  Mexico.  [Geography.  The  province  of  New 
Mexico]  lies  between  lat.  30°  30'  and  44°  N.,  and  long.  104° 
and  108°  W.,  and  is  the  most  northern  province  of  the  king- 
dom of  New  Spain.  It  extends  northwest  into  an  undefined 
boundary,  is  bounded  north  and  east  by  Louisiana,  south  by 
Biscay  and  Cogquilla,  and  west  by  Senora  and  California." 

"  New  Mexico,  as  long  as  it  was  a  province  of  New  Spain,  could  not  be  satis- 
factorily bounded,  for  the  simple  reason  that  its  boundaries  were  never  clearly 
defined.  Pike's  ascription  of  lat.  44°  N.  sends  it  up  to  the  shadowy  border  of 
"the  Oregan" — that  No  Man's  Land  till  Lewis  and  Clark  descended  the 
Columbia  to  the  South  Sea.  This  is  no  place  to  open  the  celebrated  quarrel 
over  boundaries  that  hovered  in  the  air  like  clouds  on  political  paper  ;  suffice  it, 
that  when  the  Oregan  became  an  undisputed  possession  of  any  nation,  it  already 
belonged  to  the  United  States.  Away  from  the  Pacific  coast,  Spanish  dominion 
never  exceeded  38°  N.  in  fact,  whatever  it  may  have  been  on  paper  at  any 
time.  Shortly  after  Pike's  time,  ;'.  e.,  from  Feb.  22d,  1819,  an  intelligible 
theoretical  boundary  was  agreed  upon  by  the  United  States  and  .Spain,  though 
it  was  never  run  upon  the  ground.  This  line,  aside  from  any  question  of  the 
still  unsettled  boundary  of  Texas,  ran  from  the  Red  r.  to  the  Arkansaw  r.  on 
the  meridian  of  100°  W.  from  Greenwich,  up  the  Arkansjiw  to  its  source, 
thence  due  N.  on  whatever  the  meridian  might  prove  to  be  to  lat.  42"  N., 
thence  on  that  parallel  due  W.  to  the  Pacific.  Spanish  Nuevo  Mejico  was 
quietly  captured  without  resist.ance  by  the  U.  S.  Army  of  the  West  under 
Kearny  in  1846  ;  formally  ceded  in  1848  ;  organized  as  a  U.  S.  territory  in  1S50  ; 
its  soutlicrn  boundary  changed  by  the  acquisition  of  the  Gadsden  purchase  and 
definitely  established  in  1853  ;  Arizona  detached  on  the  W.  in  1863  along  the 
meridian  of  iog°  W. ;  eastern  boundary,  the  meridian  of  103°  W.;  present  area, 
122,460  sq.  m. ;  pop.  in  iSgogiven  .as  153,593.  Thus,  to  all  intents  and  practical 
purposes.  Pike's"  New  Mexico"  is  our  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  and  thence 
indefinitely  northward.  Present  Arizona  has  an  area  of  112,920  sq.  m.;  pop. 
59,620  by  the  census  of  1890.  In  December,  1863,  Governor  John  N.  Good- 
win and  Secretary  Richard  C.  McCormick,  with  other  new  Territorial  officials, 
entered  into  possession  on  the  ground,  and  formally  proclaimed  their  functions. 
They  proceeded  to  establish  the  capit.il  on  Granite  cr.,  a  tributary  of  the  Rio 
Verde,  and  named  it  Prescott,  for  the  histori.in,  after  having  deliberated  whether 
to  call  it  Audubon,  for  the  ornitliologist.  Tlie  log  house  built  for  the  gulierna- 
torial,  secretarial,  and  all  other  functions  was  there  when  I  last  s.aw  it,  in  1892, 
and  still  the  residence  of  one  of  the  original  party.  Judge  Fleury,  who  in  the 
course  of  time  exercised  his  versatile  talent  in  every  capacity,  from  cook  to  act- 
ing governor.  Arizona  is  thus  ]K)lilicnlIy  in  its  32d  year  now  (iSg?).  Its  his- 
toric period  dates  from  I5.}()  or  1536  ;  the  prehistoric  compass  of  time,  since  it 


728      CLIMATE — SURFACE  FEATURES — MINES. 

Its  length  is  unknown  ;  its  breadth  may  be  600  miles  ;  but 
the  inhabited  part  is  not  more  than  400  miles  in  length  and 
50  in  breadth,  lying  along  the  river  del  Norte,  from  lat.  37° 
to  31^  30'  N.;  but  in  this  space  there  is  a  desert  of  more 
than  250  miles. 

Air  and  Climate.  No  persons  accustomed  to  reside  in 
the  temperate  climate  of  lat.  36°  and  37"  N.  in  the  United 
States  can  form  any  idea  of  the  piercing  cold  which  is  ex- 
perienced on  that  parallel  in  New  Mexico;  but  the  air  is 
serene  and  unaccompanied  by  damps  or  fogs,  as  it  rains  but 
once  a  year,  and  some  years  not  at  all.  It  is  a  mountainous 
country.  The  grand  dividing  ridges  which  separate  the 
waters  of  the  rio  del  Norte  from  those  of  California  border 
it  on  the  line  of  its  western  limits,  and  are  covered,  in  some 
places,  with  eternal  snows,  which  give  a  keenness  to  the  air 
that  could  not  be  calculated  upon  or  expected  in  a  tem- 
perate zone. 

Timber  and  Plains.  The  cotton  tree  \Pop7ilus\  is  the 
only  tree  of  this  province,  except  some  scrubby  pines  and 
cedars  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  [and  many  other  species 
there  and  elsewhere].  The  former  borders  the  banks  of  the 
rio  del  Norte  and  its  tributary  streams.  All  the  rest  of 
the  country  presents  to  the  eye  a  barren  wild  of  poor  land, 
scarcely  to  be  improved  by  culture,  and  appears  to  be  only 
capable  of  producing  sufficient  subsistence  for  those  animals 
which  live  on  succulent  plants  and  herbage. 

Mines,  Mijierals,  and  Fossils.  There  are  no  mines  known 
in  the  province,  except  one  of  copper  situated  in  a  moun- 
tain on  the  west  side  of  the  rio  del  Norte,  in  lat.  34°  N.  [see 
note  '"',  p.  637].  It  is  worked,  and  produces  20,000  mule- 
loads  of  copper  annually.     It  also  furnishes  that  article  for 

was  first  inhabited,  is  very  likely  not  exceeded  by  the  Christian  era — to  judge 
from  recent  exhumations  in  the  valley  of  the  Gila,  revealing  a  cluster  of  cities 
6  ni.  long.  Those  who  named  the  present  capital  Phoenix  builded  better  than 
they  knew — the  name,  I  mean,  not  the  mud  hovels  and  wicker-work  jacals 
which  adorn  some  portions  of  that  new  center  of  political  intrigue  to  which 
were  lately  shifted  the  inevitable  dissensions  that  arose  between  the  northern 
mountaineers  and  the  southern  deserteers. 


FOLIATED   TALC — RIO   DEL  NORTE.  729 

the  manufactories  of  nearly  all  the  internal  provinces.  It 
contains  gold,  but  not  quite  sufficient  to  pay  for  its  extrac- 
tion ;  consequently  it  has  not  been  pursued. 

There  is,  near  Santa  Fe,  in  some  of  the  mountains,  a 
stratum  of  talc,  which  is  so  large  and  flexible  as  to  render  it 
capable  of  being  subdivided  into  thin  flakes,  of  which  the 
greater  proportion  of  the  houses  in  Santa  Fe,  and  in  all  the 
villages  to  the  north,  have  their  window-lights  made. 

Rivers.  The  river  del  Norte  takes  its  source  in  the 
mountains  which  give  birth  to  the  headwaters  of  California, 
the  Plata  [South  Platte],  Pierre  Jaune  ["Yellowstone,"  i.  c. 
North  Platte]  of  the  Missouri,  and  Arkansaw  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, in  lat.  40°  N.  and  long.  1 10°  W."  Its  distance  from 
its  source  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico  may  be,  by  its  meanders, 
estimated  at  2,000  miles,  passing  through  the  provinces  of 
New  Mexico,  part  of  Biscay,  Cogquilla,  and  New  San  Ander, 
where  it  falls  into  the  gulf  at  lat.  26°  N.  It  cannot,  in  any 
part  of  its  course,  be  termed  a  navigable  stream,  owing  to 
the  sand-bars.  In  the  flat  country  and  mountains  in  the 
upper  part,  with  which  its  course  is  interrupted,  small  boats 
might  ascend  as  high  as  the  Presidio  de  Rio  Grande  in  Cog- 
quilla, and  it  might  be  navigable  for  canoes  in  various  parts 
of  its  course.  In  the  mountains  above  Santa  Fe  it  afforded 
amply  sufficient  water  for  canoe  navigation,  and  even  more 

"  To  correct  in  detail  all  such  statements  would  hardly  come  within  the  scope 
of  cursory  notes,  and  I  usually  pass  thetn  over,  as  anyone  can  easily  inform 
himself  of  the  adjustment  required  for  geographical  precision.  But  in  this  par- 
ticular instance  it  is  well  to  remember  that  TiUc  had  acquired  an  erroneous 
notion  of  the  source  of  the  Yellowstone,  from  considering  the  South  Platte  to  be 
the  whole  Platte,  thus  throwing  the  North  Platte  out  of  court.  Having  no 
knowledge  of  this  great  river,  he  fancied  there  was  some  spot  whence  he  could 
walk  in  a  day  to  the  source  of  any  one  of  the  four  he  names — a  feat  for  which 
the  seven-leagued  boots  of  fable  would  be  required  :  see  note  ',  p.  524.  For 
some  particulars  concerning  the  Rio  Grande,  see  note  '-,  p.  642.  To  the 
different  names  which  the  river  had  in  different  regions,  add  Rio  Abajo  and  Rio 
Arriba  for  lower  and  upper  sections,  not  well  defined  but  conveniently  recog- 
nized, of  Rio  del  Norte  above  El  Paso.  Pike  is  quite  right  in  the  matter  of  Rio 
Bravo — a  name  never  applied  to  the  river  in  any  portion  of  its  course  which  he 
traversed  in  New  Mexico. 


730  THE  COLORADO   RIVER-SYSTEM. 

than  appeared  to  be  flowing  in  its  bed  in  the  plains.  This 
must  be  attributed  to  numerous  canals  and  the  dry  sandy 
soil  through  which  the  river  courses,  where  much  of  the 
water  which  flows  from  the  mountains  must  be  absorbed 
and  lost.  In  the  province  of  New  Mexico  it  is  called  the 
Rio  del  Norte  ;  below  it  is  termed  the  Rio  Grande  ;  but  in 
no  instance  did  I  hear  it  called  the  Rio  Bravo,  as  many  of 
our  ancient  maps  designate  it. 

There  are  also,  in  the  limits  of  this  province,  to  the  west, 
the  rivers  San  Rafael,  San  Xavier,  de  los  Dolores,  also  de 
los  Anamas  or  Nabajoa,  all  of  which  join  and  form  the  great 
Rio  Colorado   of  California."     The   two   first   take    their 

"  Whatever  the  real  implication  of  names  bestowed  upon  actual  or  alleged 
branches  of  the  Colorado  by  the  early  explorers  from  whom  Pike  drew  his 
inspiration,  as  Escalante  1777,  it  is  not  difficult  to  identify  those  he  uses,  even 
when  his  text  does  not  agree  with  his  map,  as  happens  in  some  cases.  From 
the  Rio  Gila,  for  which  see  note  ",  we  will  follow  his  map  upward,  i.  "  Rio 
S".  Maria  "  of  the  map,  not  in  the  text.  The  n:ime  Santa  Maria  held  for  many 
years  for  the  branch  of  the  Colorado  now  called  Bill  Williams'  fork.  This  is 
composed  of  two  main  streams,  to  one  of  which  the  name  Santa  Maria  is  now 
usually  restricted  ;  the  other  is  called  Big  Sandy.  Bill  Williams'  fork  does  not 
head  in  Bill  Willi.ams'  mountain,  being  cut  off  from  that  by  the  Rio  Verde,  etc. ; 
its  basin  lies  entirely  W.of  Aubrey  and  Chino  valleys,  and  of  the  Prescott  plains. 
This  river  drains  westward  from  the  Santa  Maria,  Granite,  Juniper,  Weaver, 
and  other  ranges  in  Arizona,  and  falls  into  the  Colorado  from  the  E.  at  a  place 
called  Aubrey  City,  the  site  of  which  was  pointed  out  to  me  by  a  native  when 
I  navig.ated  the  Colorado  in  1865,  though  I  saw  nothing  like  a  city.  2.  There 
is  no  mention  in  the  text,  nor  any  sign  on  the  map,  of  the  Colorado  Chiquito, 
otherwise  Little  Colorado  r. ,  though  this  is  a  large  water-course  which,  wlicn  it 
runs,  drains  an  extensive  area  in  N.  Arizona.  This  stream  heads  about  the  White, 
Mogollon,  and  other  ranges  on  or  near  the  confines  of  New  Mexico ;  receives 
from  the  Zunian  mts.  its  main  fork,  Rio  Fuerco  of  the  West  ;  flows  N.  W.  past 
(E.  of)  the  San  Francisco  and  Bill  Williams'  peaks,  .and  falls  into  the  Colorado 
from  the  S.  E.,  well  up  in  the  Grand  Cation  of  the  latter  ;  its  own  lower  courses 
are  terribly  caiionous  for  a  great  distance,  its  bed  being  riven  in  chasms  com- 
parable even  with  the  awful  aliyss  of  the  Colorado  itself.  3.  Non-appearance 
of  the  Colorado  Chiquito  affects  to  some  extent  the  identification  of  the  river 
called  in  the  text  "de  los  Anamas  or  Nabajna  "  and  lettered  on  the  map  "  Rio 
Jasqucvil]a."  This  is  laid  down  as  a  large  eastern  branch  of  the  Colorado  which 
falls  in  a/'07vthe  Grand  Canon,  and  on  which  lived  the  "  Nahjo"  (Navajo)  and 
"Cosnin.as"  (Cojnino)  Indi.ans,  and  snu/fi  of  which  were  the  "  Indiens  Moqui, 
Independent   since   l63o,"   in   four   villages  lettered   "Oraybe,"   "  Mosanis," 


THE   COLORADO   RIVER-SYSTEM.  731 

sources  in  the  same  mountains  as  the  Rio  del  Norte,  but  on 
the  west  side. 

The  river  Colorado,  by  its  meanders,  may  be  about  1,000 
miles  in  length,  from  its  sources  to  its  discharge  into  the 
head  of  the  gulf  of  California,  in  the  33d  degree  of  N.  lat. 
[about  32"].     It   has   been   represented   to   me,  by  men  of 

''  Songoapt,"  and  "  Gualpi  "—for,  though  the  Moki  legend  is  set  astride  of  the 
river  itself,  it  belongs  to  these  four  villages  S.  of  the  river.  The  stream  in  (jues- 
tion  certainly  was  meant  for  the  Colorado  Chiquito  ;  but  most  of  its  ascribed 
characters  are  those  of  Rio  San  Juan  of  N.  W.  New  Mexico,  N.  E.  Arizona, 
and  S.  E.  Utah.  The  leaning  toward  the  Colorado  Chiquito  is  shown  by  the 
location  of  the  Cojnino  Indians  on  this  stream,  and  its  passage  next  N.  of  the 
circle  of  ten  peaks  lettered  "  Sierra  de  los  Cosninas  "—these  indicating  the  San 
Francisco,  Bill  Williams',  and  other  mountains  of  central  Arizona  ;  but  identifi- 
cation with  the  San  Juan  is  possible  by  the  location  of  the  Navajos  on  its  head- 
waters and  of  the  Mokis  further  S.,  as  well  as  by  its  entrance  into  the  Colorado 
above  the  Grand  Canon — for  Pike  charts  the  upper  end  of  the  caiion  as  the 
"  Puerto  del  Bacorelli."  Rio  San  Juan  heads  in  N.  W.  New  Mexico,  next  W. 
of  the  Rio  Grande  basin,  having  numerous  collateral  sources  there  and  in  con- 
tiguous parts  of  N.  E.  Arizona  and  S.  W.  Colorado ;  hence  it  enters  S.  E. 
Utah  and  runs  to  the  Colorado  around  the  base  of  Mt.  Navajo,  thus  including 
in  its  ramifications  adjacent  corners  of  two  states  and  two  territories  ;  two  of 
its  affluents  retain  to  this  day  the  names  Rio  de  las  Animas  and  Rio  Navajo,  re- 
spectively. Among  its  larger  tributaries  may  be  mentioned  Rio  Chusco,  Chasco, 
or  Chaco,  and  especially  Rio  Chelly — the  latter  being  that  one  the  mystery 
of  whose  famous  Canon  de  Chelly  was  fathomed  by  Captain  J.  H.  Simpson  in 
1859.  The  two  strange  words  which  Pike  uses  in  this  connection,  "  Bacorelli" 
and  "  Jasipievilla,"  both  treated  in  the  Index,  are  not  the  same  as  Jicarilla, 
present  name  of  certain  mountains  in  Arizona  and  of  a  certain  tribe  of  Indians 
called  in  Arizona  "  Hickory  "  Apaches.  4.  The  fact  that  the  Grand  Canon  of 
the  Colorado  is  indicated  on  Pike's  map  may  be  certified  in  more  than  one  way: 
{a)  He  marks  below  it  certain  "  Indiens  Chemequaba,"  i.  e.,  Chemehuevi, 
a  Shoshonean  tribe  then  as  now  living  in  Arizona  below  the  canon,  and  thus 
isolated  from  their  parent  stock  among  Apaches  of  Athapascan  lineage. 
(I!)  Pike's  term  "  Cosninas,"  for  certain  Indians  and  mountains,  is  still  an 
alternative  name  for  the  Cosnino,  Cojnino,  or  Cataract  Canon,  a  side-si>ur  of  the 
Grand  Cafion,  and  still  the  residence  of  a  curious  cave-dwelling  trilje  called 
Yavasupai,  Havasupi,  or  Aguazul,  who  numbered  214  when  I  visited  them  in 
1 88 1.  (<-)  The  trans-continental  route  via  the  Arkansaw  and  Colorado  rivers, 
which  Pike  suggests  as  the  "  best  communication  from  ocean  to  ocean,"  need  not 
be  supposed  to  run  through  the  Grand  Canon,  but  rather  to  approximate  that 
lately  achieved  by  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  R.  R.,  connecting  on  the  E.  with  the 
A.,  T.,  and  S.  F.  R.  R.,  on  the  W.  with  the  So.  Cala.  R.  R.  5.  West  of  the 
Grand  Canon  Pike  traces  a  problematical  "  Rio  de  los  Panami  des  surfurcas  on 


732  THE  COLORADO   RIVER-SYSTEM. 

information  and  research,  to  be  navigable  for  square-rigged 
vessels  at  least  300  miles  from  the  gulf.  By  this  river  and 
the  Arkansaw  there  could  be  the  best  communication  estab- 
lished between  the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic  oceans.  There 
are  represented  to  be  various  numerous  and  warlike  nations 
of  Indians  on  its  banks.  Through  the  whole  of  its  course 
its  banks  are  entirely  destitute  of  timber,  and  indeed  I  was 

ignore  1  Embouchure,"  without  beginning  or  end.  This  suggests  Virgin  r., 
whose  junction  with  the  Colorado  in  Nevada  was  then  unknown.  6.  Above 
the  Grand  Caiion,  Pilie  forks  the  Colorado  distinctly  into  two  main  branches, 
referable  of  course  to  the  Grand  and  the  Green  rivers.  7.  The  main  course  of 
Grand  r.  is  lettered  "  Rio  de  los  Duimas,"  for  which  read  Las  Animas — but  not 
"Los  Anamas  or  Nabajoa "  of  Pike's  text,  already  accounted  for.  This 
"  Duimas  "  may  be  taken  as  intended  to  represent  tlie  whole  course  of  Grand  r. 
and  its  branches,  as  the  Gunnison,  etc.  8.  The  main  course  of  the  "  Duimas  " 
or  Grand  r.  is  what  Pike  means  by  Rio  "  de  los  Dolores  "  of  the  text,  nameless 
on  his  map.  This  is  the  Dolores  r.  of  present  geography,  running  chiefly  in 
Colorado,  but  joining  the  Grand  in  Utah.  Pike  forks  this  ;  one  of  these  forks 
is  the  continuation  of  the  Dolores  ;  the  other  is  present  San  Miguel  r.  of 
Colorado.  9.  Green  r.  is  the  one  lettered  "  Rio  Zanguananos,"  as  the  main 
continuation  of  the  Colorado  itself.  This  is  correct,  though  the  singular 
S-shaped  course  in  which  it  is  laid  down  is  so  far  out  of  drawing  that  the  two 
branches  of  it  which  he  names  are  thrown  in  the  wrong  direction.  These  two 
are  the  San  Rafael  and  San  Xavier  of  both  text  and  map.  The  first  one  of 
them  is  present  San  Rafael  r. ;  and  if  we  take  Pike's  San  Xavier  to  be  the  next 
above  on  the  same  side,  it  corresponds  to  Price  r.  We  must  not  seek  for  any 
streams  higher  up  the  Grand  than  Price  r. ;  the  early  Spanish  travelers  did  not 
get  very  far  in  that  direction  ;  and  Pike  sets  all  these  streams  considerably  S.  of 
Great  Salt  1.,  not  beyond  the  latitude  he  assigns  to  the  head  of  the  Rio  Grande. 
The  old  Spanish  trail  from  Colorado  into  Utah  passed  a  certain  Sierra  La  Sal, 
or  Salt  mt.,  which  is  situated  near  the  confluence  of  the  Green  and  the 
Grand  ;  continued  across  both  these  rivers  a  little  above  their  junction,  and  so 
on  westward  between  the  San  Rafael  r.  and  the  San  Xavier  or  Price  r.,  into  the 
basin  of  present  Sevier  r.  and  Sevier  1.  Now  Pike  sets  his  "  Montaigne  de  Sel," 
or  Mountain  of  Salt,  close  to  the  main  Rio  Zanguananos  or  Green  r. ,  and  directly 
against  the  mouth  of  his  San  Rafael.  This  particular  combination  could  not  have 
been  accidental,  and  seems  to  show  what  was  really  mapped,  though  so  distortedly. 
As  intimated  in  beginning  this  note,  I  have  attempted  identifications  without 
prejudice  to  any  original  implication  of  the  Spanish  records,  but  solely  according 
to  what  I  find  in  Pike.  The  early  names  themselves  seem  open  to  the  interpre- 
tation here  offered,  and  I  know  from  several  futile  attempts  which  I  made  that 
Pike's  geography  of  the  Colorado  basin  would  be  hard  to  square  with  the  facts 
in  any  other  way.  Should  the  present  identifications  be  acceptable,  some 
hitherto  unsurmounted  difficulties  would  prove  to  have  been  overcome. 


GOOD-LUCK   GHOST  OF   SEVIER   RIVER.  733 

informed  that  for  300  miles  there  was  not  a  tree  ten  inches 
in  diameter. 

The  river  S.  Buenaventura  empties  into  the  Pacific  ocean 
to  the  north  of  California  in  39"  30'  N.  latitude,  and  takes  its 
source  in  the  Sierre  Madre  to  the  north  of  the  Colorado  and 
del  Norte." 

"This  paragraph  is  contradicted  by  the  map,  on  which  "Rio  de  S'". 
Buenaventura  "  runs  W.  into  a  nameless  lake,  S.  of  a  certain  Lac  de  Tiinpanagos, 
and  is  the  first  river,  N.  and  W.  of  Green  r.,  that  does  not  connect  with  the 
Colorado.  The  Buenaventura  is  a  ghost-river  which  haunted  geography  for 
many  years.  Nothing  like  such  a  river  as  this  was  represented  to  be  exists — it 
is  as  much  of  a  myth  in  Utah  and  California  as  Lahontan's  fabulous  Long  r.  in 
Minnesota  and  Dakota.  But  it  is  a  rule  with  hardly  an  exception  that  every 
myth  has  some  basis  of  fact.  In  so  far  as  Pike's  Buenaventura  represents  any- 
thing in  nature,  I  imagine  it  to  be  an  adumbration  of  Sevier  r. ,  and  its  sink  to  be 
Lake  Sevier,  in  the  western  part  of  Utah,  S.  of  Great  Salt  1.  True,  the  Buena- 
ventura is  laid  down  very  much  out  of  the  actual  course  of  the  Sevier  ;  but  not 
more  wrongly  than  Green  r.  is,  and  the  very  curious  way  in  which  the  Sevier 
winds  about  to  reach  its  sink  would  hardly  have  been  discovered  and  correctly 
delineated  by  those  early  travelers  in  the  "  Great  American  Desert."  The 
nameless  lake  itself  is  not  very  far  out  of  the  way  on  Pike's  map.  Possibly 
also,  the  mysterious  river,  "whose  mouth  is  unknown,"  may  be  intended  for 
some  section  of  the  Sevier  ;  for,  if  we  were  to  connect  this  trace  with  Pike's 
Buenaventura,  we  should  have  a  recognizable  representation  of  the  Sevier.  But 
Pike  heads  his  Rio  S.  Buenaventura,  by  a  principal  branch  called  "  Rio  de  S°. 
Clemente,"  in  that  portion  of  the  continental  divide  he  marks  "  Sierra  Verde," 
i.  e.,  Green  mts.,  also  the  source  of  present  Green  r.  We  should  note 
further  in  this  connection  the  appearance  on  Pike's  map  of  New  Mexico  of  a 
certain  river  running  northward,  lettered  "  Rio  de  Piedro  Amaretto  del  Mis- 
souri." Here,  "Amaretto"  is  a  mistake  of  the  engraver  iot  Amayillo,  the 
phrase  being  Sp.  Piedra  AmariUa=F.  Pierre  Jaune  or  Roche  Jaune=E.  Yellow 
Stone,  a  principal  branch  of  the  Missouri.  As  we  have  repeatedly  seen  already. 
Pike  was  determined  to  interlock  the  headwaters  of  the  Yellowstone,  Platte, 
Arkansaw,  and  Rio  Grande  in  some  one  spot  in  the  Rocky  mts. — and  here  we 
have  it,  just  over  the  divide  that  separates  these  Atlantic  waters  collectively 
from  those  of  the  general  basin  of  the  Colorado.  Observe,  also,  how  nearly  tlie 
dotted  trail  of  the  "  Country  explored  by  a  Detachment  of  American  Troops 
commanded  by  Captain  Pike  "  reaches  to  the  supposed  Yellowstone. 

The  Sevier  r.  possesses  a  melancholy  interest  as  the  scene  of  the  wanton  and 
brutal  murder  by  Piute  Indians  of  Captain  John  Williams  Gunnison  and  most  of 
his  companions,  near  Sevier  1.,  Oct.  27th,  1853.  The  particulars  are  given  by 
Lieutenant  E.  G.  Beckwith,  P.  R.  R.  Rep.,  II.  1855,  pp.  72-74-  The  massacre 
occurred  at  break  of  day  of  the  27th,  not  on  the  26th,  as  usually  reported. 
There  was  no  provocation  whatever,  and  no  thought  of  danger  on  the  part  of 


734  THE  GILA   RIVER-SYSTEM. 

The    Rio   Gila '"   heads  opposite   the   copper-mines,  and 

the  devoted  band.  Those  killed,  besides  Captain  Gunnison,  were  Mr.  E.  H. 
Kern,  topographer  and  artist;  Mr.  F.  Creuzfeldt,  botanist;  Mr.  Wm.  Potter, 
a  citizen  of  Utah,  guide  ;  John  Bellows,  an  employee  ;  and  three  men  of  tlie 
military  escort,  which  consisted  of  a  corporal  and  six  privates  ;  only  four  of  the 
whole  party  escaped  with  their  lives.  Lieutenant  Beckwith  expressly  exonerates 
the  Mormons  from  complicity  in  the  outrage  ;  public  opinion  thought  other- 
wise ;  and  the  official  record  of  Captain  Gunnison's  death  stands  "  Killed  26 
Oct.  53  by  a  band  of  Mormons  and  Inds  near  Sevier  Lake  Utah."  The 
lamented  and  accomplished  officer  met  his  fate  while  conducting  explorations 
and  sur\'eys  for  a  railroad  route  near  the  38°  and  39°  parallels  of  N.  lat.  He 
had  graduated  from  the  U.  S.  Military  Academy  at  West  Point  July  31st,  1S37, 
when  he  became  a  second  lieutenant  of  the  2d  Artillery  ;  was  transferred  with 
that  rank  to  the  corps  of  Topographical  Engineers  July  7th,  1838  ;  became  first 
lieutenant  May  9th,  1846 ;  and  obtained  his  captaincy  Mar.  3d,  1853. 

"  Pike  acquired  a  good  idea  of  the  Gila,  for  one  who  never  saw  it,  and  it  is 
well  laid  down  on  his  map  ;  though  it  joins  the  Colorado  a  considerable  distance 
above  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  the  confluence  is  below  33°,  being  in 
lat.  32°  43'  32"  N.,  long.  114°  36'  10"  W.  The  Gila  was  known  to  the  whites 
before  the  Mississippi  was  discovered  ;  it  was  long  better  known  than  the  Rio 
Grande,  and  down  to  the  present  century  was  far  better  known  than  the  Rio 
Colorado.  The  valley  of  the  Gila  was  the  first  seat  of  semi-civilization  within 
the  present  limits  of  the  United  States  ;  and  Tucson,  on  the  Santa  Cruz  r.,  dis- 
putes with  St.  Augustine  in  Florida  the  record  of  being  the  oldest  continuously 
inhabited  white  settlement  in  our  country  ;  but  St.  A.  was  founded  by  Spaniards 
about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century.  An  early  if  not  the  first  name  of  the 
Gila  was  Rio  de  los  Apostolos,  more  fully  Rio  Grande  de  los  Apostolos,  as  the 
legend  appears,  for  example,  on  Vaugondy's  map,  1783,  where  so  many  apos- 
tolic and  canonical  towns  are  marked  along  the  river  as  to  give  its  valley  the 
appearance  of  a  well-settled  region,  including  even  that  ancient  and  celebrated 
structure,  the  Casa  Grande,  still  extant.  Rio  de  los  Apostolos  or  A])Ostles'  r. 
appears  on  maps  of  the  ]>resent  century,  as  for  example  on  the  one  which  Cap- 
tain Clark  drew  at  the  Mandans  in  the  winter  of  1804-5,  and  which  Captain 
Lewis  dispatched  to  President  Jefferson  April  7th,  1805,  but  which  was  never 
published  of  full  size  till  September,  1893.  Pike's  first  branch  of  the  Gila  is 
called  "  Rio  de  la  Asuncion,"  with  Rio  Verde  as  its  main  fork.  This  is  correct  ; 
for  the  river  of  the  Assumption  of  the  B.  V.  M.,  whatever  may  be  the  myth 
upon  which  such  an  extraordinary  assumption  was  based,  is  that  now  known  as 
Rio  Salinas,  Rio  Salado,  and  Salt  r.,  into  which  the  Verde  falls  near  Mt.  Mc- 
Dowell and  the  fort  of  the  same  name.  The  confluence  of  Salt  r.  with  the  Gila 
is  below  Phcenix,  present  capital  of  Arizona,  and  but  little  above  the  point 
where  the  Agua  Fria  also  falls  into  the  Gila.  The  Verde  is  the  principal  river 
of  central  Arizona,  for  the  most  part  flowing  southward,  though  it  starts  north- 
ward by  the  headwater  called  Granite  cr.  and  then  makes  a  loop  ;  this  creek  is 
the  site  of  Prescott,  first  capital  of  Arizona  on  the  establishment  of  the  Terri- 


INDIANS   OF   THE   GILA   AND   COLORADO.  735 

discharges  into  the  gulf  of  California,  just  below  the  Colo- 
rado, in  the  33d  degree  of  N.  latitude. 

tory  in  1863,  and  of  Fort  Whipple,  established  by  the  troops  to  which  I  was 
attached  in  July,  1864.  Pike's  small  branch  of  the  Gila  lettered  "  Rio  de 
Ozul,"  for  which  read  Rio  Azul  or  Blue  r. ,  is  the  present  San  Carlos,  of  which  we 
lately  heard  a  good  deal  on  account  of  the  unruly  Apaches  at  the  agency  of 
that  name.  Present  Blue  cr.  is  a  small  branch  higher  up  on  the  same  side,  near 
Pike's  Rio  San  Francisco,  which  latter  he  rightly  charts  as  one  of  the  initial 
forks  of  the  Gila.  His  Rio  San  Pedro,  still  so  called,  is  the  principal  Gileno 
tributary  from  the  S.  It  acquired  special  importance  in  connection  with  the 
U.  S.  and  Mexican  Boundary  Survey.  Near  this  stream  he  marks  "  Pres[idio] 
de  Tubson,"  at  the  town  of  "  S"-  Xavier  del  bac,"  in  the  "  Senora  "  (Sonora)  of 
that  day. 

The  Indian  tribes  of  the  Gila  valley  which  are  located  on  the  map  may  be 
here  noted,  as  their  names  do  not  come  up  elsewhere  in  this  work,  and  with 
these  may  also  be  conveniently  considered  those  which  Pike  marks  on  the  Colo- 
rado above  the  Gila.  Such  are,  on  the  Gila  :  The  Yumas  (Cuchans) ;  the 
"  Cojuenchis  "  ;  the  "  Cucapa  "  (Cocopas) ;  the  Papagos  ;  the  "  Cocomari- 
copas  "  (Maricopas)  ;  and  on  the  Colorado  :  the  "  Chemequaba"  (Chemehuevis, 
who  are  of  Shoshonean  stock,  as  we  have  already  seen);  the  "  Jalchedum  "  ; 
the  "  Yabijoias  "  (Yavapais)  ;  the  "  Yamaya  "  (Amaquaqua,  Amaqiia,  Majave 
or  Mohave).  All  these  Indians  lived  within  the  present  territory  of  the  United 
States,  occupying  the  valley  of  the  Gila  on  both  sides  from  above  the  junction 
of  the  .San  Pedro  down  to  the  Colorado,  and  up  the  Colorado,  on  the  Arizona 
side  at  least,  to  the  Grand  Cation,  to  the  almost  entire  exclusion  of  other 
tribes.  They  were  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Slioshonean  tribes  in  California, 
Nevada,  Utah,  and  a  small  part  of  Arizona  ;  on  the  E.  by  Athapascan  tribes, 
especially  the  Apaches  ;  on  the  S. ,  they  stretched  throughout  Lower  California, 
and  far  into  Mexico.  With  the  single  exception  just  said,  the  names  that  I 
can  identify  all  are  now  classed  under  two  main  family  groups  or  linguistic 
stocks,  Piman  and  Yuman  ;  and  all  belong  to  the  latter,  excepting  the  Papagos 
and  the  Pimas  themselves.  I.  The  Piman  family  is  mainly  Mexican,  as  of  its 
nine  tribes  or  divisions  only  three  are  Arizonian.  Of  these,  the  Sobaipuri,  who 
lived  on  the  Santa  Cruz  and  San  Pedro  branches  of  the  Gila,  have  entirely  dis- 
appeared. The  Pimas  proper,  Upper  Pimas,  or  Pimas  Altas  (so  called  in  dis- 
tinction from  the  Lower  Pimas,  Pimas  Bajas,  or  Nevomes,  of  Mexico),  have 
lived  for  200  years  on  the  Gila  and  Salado,  in  the  position  assigned  by  Pike 
to  the  Cocomaricopas.  The  Papagos  lived  further  S.  and  extended  into 
Mexico.  According  to  late  official  returns  (for  1890),  there  were  4,464  Pimas 
and  5,163  Papagos  under  the  Pima  Agency  on  the  Gila.  2.  The  Yuman 
family  is  less  summarily  to  be  disposed  of,  as  the  area  of  its  distribution  in  the 
United  States  is  more  extensive  and  its  divisions  are  more  numerous,  and  sev- 
eral of  them  are  entirely  extralimital  in  Lower  California  and  Mexico.  The 
name  Yuma  is  given  by  Whipple  as  a  Cuchan  word  meaning  "sons  of  the 
river."     In  the  early  days  of  our  occupation  of  Arizona  some  of  the  tribes 


71^  INDIAN  TRIBES,   CONTINUED— THE   PECOS. 

The  Rio  Puerto  [Pecos '"]  is  a  branch  of  the  Rio  del 
Norte  ;  it  comes  from  the  north  and  joins  that  river  about 
lOO  miles  below  the  Presidio  del  Norte. 

along  the  Colorado  were  hostile  ;  but  since  the  subjugation  of  the  Vumas  and 
Mohaves,  followed  by  the  establishment  of  Fort  Yuma  and  Fort  Mohave,  they 
have  given  very  little  trouble,  with  the  exception  of  the  Hualapais  or  Walapais. 
These  may  be  properly  classed  as  Yuman  by  linguistic  affinities,  but  they  are 
rather  mountain  than  river  Indians,  and  have  within  comparatively  few  years 
been  most  decidedly  hostile.  In  January,  1S65,  it  was  my  misfortune,  which  I 
shall  never  cease  to  regret,  to  be  concerned  in  a  cruel  massacre— for  I  cannot 
call  it  a  fight— in  which  about  30  Hualapais  were  killed,  in  the  Juniper  mts.,  a 
very  few  miles  from  the  spot  where  Camp  Hualapais  was  later  established. 
My  friend,  the  late  Colonel  William  Redwood  Price,  when  major  of  the  8th 
Cavalry  (d.  Dec.  30th,  1881),  had  the  handling  of  the  Hualapais  after  this  ;  in 
1867  they  were  about  1,500  people,  with  probably  400  warriors;  he  killed 
probably  175  of  them,  mostly  men,  and  brought  them  to  terms  in  1869,  when  a 
batch  of  prisoners  was  sent  to  San  Francisco.  In  l88i,  when  we  reoccupied 
Camp  Hualapais  and  named  it  Camp  Price,  a  threatened  outbreak  was  averted 
by  putting  a  chief  in  irons.  The  Hualapais  now  number  perhaps  750,  in  N. 
W.  Arizona,  and  are  almost  the  only  members  of  the  Yuman  stock  in  the  Ter- 
ritory whom  we  have  not  entirely  broken  down,  pauperized,  and  debauched. 
The  shocking  syphilization  of  all  the  Yuman  Indians  along  the  Colorado  has 
been  notorious  for  many  years.  The  Yumas  or  Umas  proper,  or  Cuchans,  have 
been  segregated  ;  there  are  or  were  lately  about  1,000  at  the  Mission  Agency 
in  California,  and  300  at  the  San  Carlos  in  Arizona.  Of  the  Mohaves,  some 
650  are  at  the  Colorado  River  Agency  in  .\rizona,  800  at  San  Carlos,  and  per- 
haps 400  at  large.  The  disestablishment  of  Fort  Mohave  is  quite  recent  ;  I 
was  post  surgeon  there  in  1881.  There  are  about  300  Maricopas  at  the  Pima 
Agency  in  Arizona.  The  Cocopas  are  a  small  tribe  whose  census  is  uncertain; 
they  live  on  the  California  side  of  the  Colorado  up  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Gila. 
The  Yavasupai  or  Aguazul  Indians,  who  live  in  Cojnino  or  Cataract  canon,  to 
the  number  of  about  200,  as  already  said,  note  ",  are  entirely  cut  off  from  the 
world  in  the  bottom  of  the  chasm  selected  for  their  abode.  Some  of  them  I 
found  occupying  holes  in  the  rock,  which  they  walled  up  like  old-fashioned 
cliff-dwellers  ;  while  others  were  sheltered  in  wickiups  scattered  about  the  few 
acres  of  arable  ground  they  could  find  to  irrigate  for  the  cultivation  of  their 
corn,  beans,  melons,  squashes,  peaches,  apricots,  and  sunflower-seeds. 

='  This  is  the  main  fork  or  largest  branch  of  the  Rio  Grande.  As  already 
remarked,  note  '«,  p.  632,  Pike  maps  it  too  high  up;  for  it  runs  entirely  E.  of 
the  mountains  (Sacramento,  Guadalupe,  White,  etc.),  W.  of  which  he  traces  it, 
and  its  mouth  is  346  m.  by  the  channel  of  the  Rio  Grande  below  the  site  of 
Presidio  del  Norte,  in  lat.  29°  40'  N.,  long.  101°  20'  W.  The  length  of  the 
river  is  supposed  to  be  between  700  and  800  m.  The  Pecos  heads  in  the 
mountains  immediately  W.  of  Santa  Fe— on  the  E.  side  of  the  Santa  Fe  range 
and  W.  side  of  Las  Vegas  range,  among  such  peaks  as  the  Truchas,  Cone, 


PECOS   RIVER   AND   PUEBLO.  737 

None   of  the  foregoing  streams  present  any  evidence  of 
civilization  on  their  shores  excepting  the  Rio  del  Norte. 
Lakes.     I  heard  of   no  lakes  in  the  province,  except  that 

Baldy,  Lake,  etc.,  there  flowing  due  S.  before  it  bears  off  to  the  left.  It  receives 
numerous  small  tributaries,  both  above  and  below  the  point  where  it  passes  by 
the  cation,  old  pueblo,  and  modern  town  of  Pecos.  The  name  is  derived  from 
the  old  pueblo,  which  was  situated  on  one  of  those  tributaries  in  the  mountains, 
some  25  m.  S.  E.  of  Santa  Fe.  The  Pecos  have  for  many  years  been  cur- 
rently reported  to  have  been  among  the  straitest  sect  of  the  Montezuman  faith, 
and  the  belief  is  general  that  they  were  those  who  longest  guarded  the  holy 
fire  in  their  estufas  and  looked  to  the  east  for  the  advent  of  their  paraclete. 
This  is  a  traditional  taradiddle  which  has  no  foundation  in  fact.  Not 
that  Montezuma  Ilhuicamina  and  Montezuma  Xocoyotzin  were  not  real 
historical  persons  ;  nor  that  the  latter,  Montezuma  II.,  was  not  euhemerized 
and  apotheosized  ;  simply,  that  the  Pecos  people  never  worshiped  him.  The 
myth  recrudesced  during  the  old  Santa  Fe  trade,  and  was  found  in  full  swing 
on  our  peaceable  conquest  of  New  Mexico  in  1846.  Pecos  is  corrupted  from 
the  (Tafioan)  Jemez  word  Paqiiiu,  applied  later  than  the  aboriginal  name 
Tshiquite,  rendered  Cieuique  in  old  Sp.  chronicles.  Pecos  "was  in  1540  the 
largest  Indian  village  or  pueblo  in  New  Mexico,  containing  a  population  of  about 
2,000  souls,  which  formed  an  independent  tribe  speaking  the  same  language 
as  the  Indians  of  Jemez.  In  l68o  the  Pecos  rebelled  with  the  others,  but  sur- 
rendered peaceably  to  Vargas  in  1692,  and  thereafter  remained  loyal  to  Spain," 
Cent.  Cyclop.  Names,  s.  v.  "  What  with  the  massacres  of  the  second  conquest, 
and  the  inroads  of  the  Comanches,  they  gradually  dwindled  away,  till  they  found 
themselves  reduced  to  about  a  dozen,  comprising  all  ages  and  sexes  ;  and  it 
was  only  a  few  years  ago  that  they  abandoned  the  home  of  their  fathers  and 
joined  the  Pueblo  of  Jemez,"  Gregg,  Comra.  Pra.,  I.  1844,  p.  271.  The 
pueblo  was  desolate  and  in  ruins  when  our  Army  of  the  West  came  by  in  1846  : 
see  Lieut.  Emory's  report,  Ex.  Doc.  41,  30th  Congr.,  1st  Sess.,  pub.  184S,  p. 
30,  with  plate  facing  it  ;  also,  a  different  view,  on  the  plate  facing  p.  447  of 
Lieut.  Abert's  report  in  the  same  volume.  The  latter  says,  p.  446  :  "In  the 
afternoon  [Sept.  26th,  1846]  I  went  out  on  the  hills  to  see  the  ancient  cathedral 
of  Pecos.  The  old  building  and  the  town  around  it  are  fast  crumbling  away 
under  the  hand  of  time.  The  old  church  is  built  in  the  same  style  as  that  of 
San  Miguel ;  the  ends  of  the  rafters  are  carved  in  imitation  of  a  scroll  ;  the 
ground  plan  of  the  edifice  is  that  of  a  cross.  It  is  situated  on  a  hill  not  far  from 
the  winding  course  of  the  river.  High  ridges  of  mountains  appear  to  converge 
until  they  almost  meet  behind  the  town,  and  through  a  little  gap  one  catches 
sight  of  a  magnificent  range  of  distant  peaks  that  seem  to  mingle  with  the  sky.'' 
Abert  was  told  that  the  surviving  remnant  went  to  live  with  the  Zufiis  ;  but 
Gregg's  statement  is  no  doubt  correct,  especially  as  Emory  says,  /.  c,  that 
"  they  abandoned  the  place  and  joined  a  tribe  of  the  original  race  over  the 
mountains,  about  60  miles  south."  The  modem  small  village  of  Pecos  grew 
up  close  by  the  original  site,  which  was  abandoned  in  1840. 


7iS  THE   QUESTION   OF   GREAT   SALT   LAKE. 

of  Tampanagos,  the  existence  of  which  I  consider  very 
doubtful.  It  is  said  to  commence,  according  to  Father 
Escalante,  in  the  40th  deg.  N.  lat.,  and  to  have  been  ex- 
plored to  the  42d  deg.  in  a  N.  W.  direction,  where  it 
enlarged  its  dimensions,  and  the  discoverer  thought  proper 
to  return.^' 

Animals.  North  Mexico  produces  deer,  elk,  buffalo, 
cabrie,  the  gresley  [grizzly  and]  black  bear,  and  wild  horses. 

Population.  Its  population  is  not  far  short  of  30,000 
souls,  one-twentieth  of  which  may  be  Spaniards  from 
Europe,  or  Chapetones  [Gachupines''],  four-twentieths 
Creoles,  five-twentieths  Metifs,  and  the  other  half  civilized 
Indians. 

The  capital  is  Santa  Fe,  situated  on  a  small  stream  which 
empties  into  the  east  side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountains  which  divide  the  waters  of  that  river 
from  the  Arkansaw  and  the  Red  river  of  the  Mississippi, 
in  36°  N.  lat.  and  100°  W.  long.  It  is  an  oblong  square, 
extending  about  one  mile  from  east  to  west  on  the  banks 
of  the  creek.     In  the  centre  is  the  public  square,  one  side 

"  Here  we  enter  the  legendary  land  where  we  are  liable  to  be  soon  confronted 
with  the  standard  specter  of  the  northwest  passage  to  India,  and  other  well- 
dressed  phantoms.  The  body  of  water  which  the  map  shows  probably  repre- 
sents Utah  1.,  south  of  Great  Salt  1.,  and  connected  therewith  by  the  short 
course  of  the  Jordan.  This  seems  to  be  what  Pike  means  by  the  legend : 
"  This  lake  is  known  as  high  as  the  40°  of  Lat.  there  it  opens  wider  to  the 
West  and  receives  the  Waters  of  the  Rio  Yampancas  ";  for  we  can  readily 
understand  this  as  a  way  of  saying  that  the  lake  is  connected  with  a  larger 
one  to  the  W.  Utah  1.  is  meridionally  E.  of  Great  Salt  1.  by  a  few  miles, 
and  entirely  S.  of  it ;  the  Jordan  is  a  very  short  stream  between  them.  In 
a  broad  sense,  then,  Pike's  Lac  de  Timpanagos  or  Lake  of  Tampanagos  includes 
both  these  bodies  of  water;  and  his  Rio  Yampancas  answers  to  Bear  r.,  the 
large  stream  which  falls  into  Great  Salt  1.  at  Bear  River  bay.  His  Sierra  de 
Tampanagos  covers  the  mountains  on  the  E.  and  S.  E.  of  Great  Salt  1.  A 
different  form  of  the  same  word  appears  in  his  "  Indiens  Yamparicas  "  of  that 
region,  and  yet  another  in  the  legend  :  "  The  Lake  of  Tampanagos  is  supposed 
to  be  the  same  as  the  Lake  of  Thequaio  in  the  Chart  d'Alzate  de  Thequao  placed 
in  40°  of  Lat.  some  Historians  pretend  that  the  Aretiqui  comes  from  this 
Lake." 

"'  Chapetones  is  a  word   wliich,  with   several  variants  in  form,  is  pretty  well 


SANTA   f£   and   other  TOWNS.  739 

of  which  forms  the  flank  of  the  soldiers'  square,  which  is 
closed  and  in  some  degree  defended  by  the  round  towers 
in  the  angles  which  flank  the  four  curtains  ;  another  side 
of  the  square  is  formed  by  the  palace  of  the  governor,  his 
guard-houses,  etc.;  the  third  side  is  occupied  by  the  priests 
and  their  suite,  and  the  fourth  by  the  Chapetones  who 
reside  in  the  city.  The  houses  are  generally  only  one 
story  high,  with  flat  roofs,  and  have  a  very  mean  appearance 
on  the  outside  ;  but  some  of  them  are  richly  furnished, 
especially  with  plate. 

The  second  cities  in  the  province  are  Albuquerque  and 
Passo  [El  Paso]  del  Norte.  The  latter  is  the  most  southern 
city  of  the  province,  as  Tons  [Taos]  is  the  most  northern. 
Between  the  village  of  Sibilleta  and  the  Passo  there  is  a 
wilderness  of  near  200  miles  [including  the  Jornada  del 
Muerto]. 

Trade  and  Commerce.  New  Mexico  carries  on  a  trade 
direct  with  Mexico  through  Biscay  [Nueva  Viscaya],  also 
with  Senora  [Sonora]  and  Sinaloa ;  it  sends  out  about 
30,000  sheep  annually,  tobacco,  dressed  deer  and  cabrie 
skins,  some  furs,  buffalo  robes,  salt,  and  wrought  copper 
vessels  of  a  superior  quality.  It  receives  in  return,  from 
Biscay  and  Mexico,  dry  goods,  confectionery,  arms,  iron, 
steel,  ammunition,  and  some   choice    European  wines  and 

known,  and  to  be  found  in  many  dictionaries,  though  its  origin  may  never  have 
been  satisfactorily  shown,  or  at  least  agreed  upon.  In  its  application  to  un- 
American  Spaniards  in  America  the  sense  implied  seems  to  have  been  always 
reproachful — perhaps  something  as  our  cowboys  and  other  "  rustlers "  in  the 
wild  and  woolly  West  would  speak  of  a  "tenderfoot"  or  "greeny."  In 
Mexico  the  word  corresponding  to  Chapeton  or  Chapetone  was  Gachiipin  or 
Gachupiiie,  "applied  to  natives  of  Spain  who  are  called  Chapetones  in  Peru 
and  Maturrangos  in  Buenos  Aires,"  as  one  of  the  authorities  before  me  says. 
I  am  afraid  that  it  is  significant  of  some  unpleasant  matters  already  noted,  to 
find  Pike  here  using  the  word  said  to  be  current  in  Peru,  instead  of  that 
which  was  usual  in  Mexico  :  see  Memoir,  ajitca.  Geo.  W.  Kendall's  Narrative  of 
the  Texan  Expedition  of  1841,  2  vols.,  small  8vo,  London,  1845,  II.  p.  75,  speaks 
of  "the  Gachtipines,  or  natives  of  Old  Spain";  and  p.  76:  "the  Gachupines 
were  indiscriminately  slaughtered,"  etc.  Gregg,  Comm.  Pra.,  I.  1844,  p.  170, 
has  :  "  Gachiipin — a  term  used  to  designate  European  Spaniards  in  America." 
Wislizenus  uses  Gachupins. 


740  COMMERCE— AGRICULTURE. 

liquors ;  from  Senora  and  Sinaloa,  gold,  silver,  and  cheese. 
The  following  articles  sell  in  this  province,  as  stated,  which 
will  show  the  cheapness  of  provisions  and  the  extreme 
dearness  of  imported  goods  :  Flour  sells,  per  hundred,  at 
$2  ;  salt,  per  mule-load,  $5  ;  sheep,  each,  $1  ;  beeves,  each, 
$5;  wine  del  Passo,  per  barrel,  $15;  horses,  each,  $11; 
mules,  each,  $30;  superfine  cloths,  per  yard,  $25;  fine 
cloths,  per  yard,  $20;  linen,  per  yard,  $4,  and  all  other  dry 
goods  in  proportion. 

The  journey  with  loaded  mules  from  Santa  Fe  to  Mexico, 
and  returning  to  Santa  Fe,  takes  five  months.  They 
manufacture  rough  leather,  cigars,  a  vast  variety  and  quan- 
tity of  potters'  ware,  cotton,  some  coarse  woolen  cloths, 
and  blankets  of  a  superior  quality.  All  those  manufactures 
are  carried  on  by  the  civilized  Indians,  as  the  Spaniards 
think  it  more  honorable  to  be  agriculturists  than  mechanics. 
The  Indians  likewise  far  exceed  their  conquerors  in  their 
genius  for,  and  execution  of,  all  mechanical  operations. 

About  two  miles  above  the  town  of  Passo  del  Norte  is  a 
bridge  over  the  river,  where  the  road  passes  to  the  west 
side,  at  which  place  is  a  large  canal  [acequia].  This  takes 
out  an  ample  supply  of  water  for  the  purpose  of  cultivation, 
which  is  here  carried  on  in  as  great  perfection  as  at  any 
place  that  I  visited  in  the  provinces.  There  is  a  wall 
bordering  the  canal  the  whole  way  on  both  sides,  to  pro- 
tect it  from  the  animals  ;  and  when  it  arrives  at  the  village, 
it  is  distributed  in  such  a  manner  that  each  person  has  his 
fields  watered  in  rotation.  At  this  place  were  as  finely 
cultivated  fields  of  wheat  and  other  small  grain  as  I  ever 
saw;  and  numerous  vineyards,  from  which  were  produced 
the  finest  wine  ever  drank  in  the  country,  which  was  cele- 
brated through  all  the  provinces,  and  was  the  only  wine 
used  on  the  table  of  the  commanding  general. 

Agriculture.  They  cultivate  corn,  wheat,  rye,  barley, 
rice,  tobacco,  vines,  and  all  the  common  culinarj'  plants 
cultivated  in  the  same  latitude  in  the  United  States.  New 
Mexico  has  the  exclusive  right  of  cultivating  tobacco.   They 


ANTIQUITIES   OF  ARIZONA.  741 

are,  however,  a  century  behind  us  in  the  art  of  cultivation ; 
for,  notwithstanding  their  numerous  herds  of  cattle  and 
horses,  I  have  seen  them  frequently  breaking  up  whole 
fields  with  a  hoe.  Their  oxen  draw  by  the  horns,  after 
the  French  mode.  Their  carts  are  e.xtremely  awkward  and 
clumsily  made.  During  the  whole  of  the  time  we  were 
in  New  Spain  I  never  saw  a  horse  in  a  vehicle  of  any 
description,  mules  being  made  use  of  in  carriages,  as  well 
as  for  the  purposes  of  labor. 

Antiquities.     On  the  river  St.  Francis,"  a  large  branch  of 

''  That  is,  Rio  San  Francisco,  one  of  the  initial  forks  of  the  Gila :  see  the 
map,  and  note  ".  The  other  is  the  main  continuation  of  the  Gila,  sometimes 
called  Rio  San  Domingo.  The  confluence  is  in  Arizona,  a  few  miles  over  the 
New  Mexican  border.  There  are  mountains  in  this  region  called  the  San 
Francisco  divide,  and  others  known  as  the  San  Francisco  range — both  by  no  means 
to  be  confounded  with  the  San  Francisco  mt.  of  the  range  in  north-central  Ari- 
zona. Whether  the  ruins  of  which  Pike  speaks  as  on  this  river  be  the  work  of  the 
aboriginal  colonists  of  Old  Mexico  from  the  northwest  is,  of  course,  in  question  ; 
he  simply  renders  a  prevalent  opinion  of  his  time.  The  oldest  authetitic  ruins 
known  to  exist  in  .\rizona  have  only  very  recently  been  brought  to  light  by  the 
exhumations  conducted  by  my  friend,  Mr.  Frank  H.  Gushing,  of  the  Hemen- 
way  Archaeological  Expedition,  in  i886-88,  in  the  valley  of  the  Salado  or  Salt 
r.,  near  the  town'of  Tempe,  and  not  far  from  Phoenix.  An  account  of  these 
discoveries,  from  the  pen  of  Dr.  Washington  Matthews,  U.  S.  A.,  forms  part 
of  the  Seventh  Memoir  of  Vol.  VI.  of  Mem.  Nat.  Acad.  Sci.,  1893,  pp.  142- 
161,  figs.  1-22.  Mr.  Gushing  dug  up  mounds  he  supposes  to  be  from  i,ooo 
to  2,000  years  old,  full  of  bones  and  pottery,  and  revealing  structures,  some 
of  which  recall  the  long  famous  Casa  Grande  itself.  The  buildings  represented 
by  the  cluster  of  mounds  crowded  an  area  some  6  m.  long  and  )^  to  1  m. 
wide.  Five  of  the  best  marked  mounds,  standing  in  the  places  of  groups  of 
houses,  have  been  named  Los  Muertos,  Los  Guanacos,  Los  Homos,  Las  Cano- 
pas,  and  Las  Acequias.  Four  kinds  of  architecture  have  been  recognized  as 
priest-temples  (style  of  Casa  Grande) ;  sun-temples,  in  some  cases  200  feet  long 
by  150  broad  ;  certain  great  communal  houses,  a  sort  of  several-storied  proto- 
types of  our  modern  city  flats  ;  and  ultramural  huts,  jacals,  or  wickiups.  I 
should  have  called  them  respectively  hieroecias,  helicecias,  syncccias,  and 
exoecias.  Those  old  Saladoans  had  an  extensive  system  of  irrigation,  the  lines 
of  acequias  madres  or  mother-ditches  alone  representing  over  150  m.  of  dug- 
way  ;  some  of  these  canals  are  now  utilized  by  the  new-comers.  It  took  many 
thousand  people  many  years  to  leave  monuments  like  these.  Their  actual 
antiquity  is'  unknown  ;  that  it  is  very  great  is  obvious  ;  it  is  great  enough  to 
have  resulted  in  the  disappearance  of  everything  but  bone  and  clay.  There  is 
no  sign  of  wood-work  or  textile  fabric.     Conjecture  of  a  thousand  years  or  more 


742  SEVEN  CITIES   OF  CIBOLA— ZUNl. 

the  river  Gila,  which  heads  near  the  copper  mines  in  New 
Mexico  and  discharges  into  the  Red  river  of  California, 
are  the  remains  of  old  walls  and  houses  which  are  ascer- 
tained to  have  been  the  work  of  the  Mexicans  on  their 
route  emigrating  from  the  northwest  to  the  plains  of  Mex- 
ico, where  they  finally  established  themselves.  Those  walls 
are   of  a  black   cement,  the  durability  of  which  increases 

may  reasonably  be  based  on  comparison  of  the  natural  rate  of  decay  of  structures 
known  since  the  historic  period,  1540.  Thus,  the  Casa  Grande  has  not  changed 
perceptibly  in  our  day,  except  from  vandalism,  and  probably  looks  much  as  it 
did  350  years  ago.  It  would  appear  also  that  the  same  indefatigable  explorer 
has  settled  the  long-mooted  question  of  the  Seven  Cities  of  Cibola  (Cebola, 
Sibola,  Zibola),  against  any  theory  of  their  being  the  Moki  (Tusayan)  villages, 
or  being  anywhere  else  than  in  the  vicinity  of  Zuiii  itself.  The  names  which 
have  come  down  to  us  since  Coronado,  1541,  are  :  (l)  Abacus,  Avicu,  Aquico, 
Jahuicu,  Havico  ;  (2)  Canabe  ;  (3)  .  .  .;  (4)  Aquinsa  ;  (5)  Alona  ;  (6)  Musaqui, 
Macaque,  Ma9aquia  ;  (7)  Caquina.  According  to  a  certain  phonetic  system 
the  preferable  spelling  is  given  as  :  (i)  Hawiku  ;  (2)  Kyanawe  ;  (3)  Ketchup- 
awe  ;  (4)  Apina  or  Pinawan  ;  (5)  Halona  ;  (6)  Matsaki  ;  (7)  Kyakima.  All 
these  were  in  what  is  now  Valencia  Co.,  N.  M.;  two  were  some  miles  S.  W. 
of  Zuiii,  near  the  vill.age  of  Ojo  Caliente  ;  two  were  nearer  Zuni,  but  E.  of  it ; 
two  were  within  3  m.  of  Zuni,  S.  of  it ;  while  one,  Halona,  occupied  in  part, 
at  least,  the  site  of  the  present  pueblo.  The  ruin  of  Hishota-uthla,  classed  as 
"Cibolan"  though  not  as  one  of  the  Seven  Cities,  is  12  m.  N.  E.  of  Zuni,  on 
the  road  to  Fort  Wingate  ;  excavation  there  has  revealed  "  a  compactly-built, 
many-storied  stronghold  of  stone  containing  a  population  of  probably  more  than 
a  thousand  people,"  supposed  to  have  been  dead  and  gone  long  before  Coro- 
nado passed  that  way.  Zuiii,  now  one  of  the  best  known  of  all  the  extant 
pueblos  in  New  Mexico,  is  also  the  best  living  exemplar  of  such  places.  Its 
antiquity  is  great,  though  hardly  estimable  with  precision.  Some  of  its  inhab- 
itants made  a  tour  of  the  United  States  under  Mr.  Cushing's  management  in 
1881  and  1882.  Immense  collections  of  implements,  utensils,  and  the  like 
were  made  about  that  time  by  the  late  Colonel  James  Stevenson,  and  de- 
posited in  our  museums.  I  visited  the  town  in  the  summer  of  1864,  when  it 
was  far  from  having  been  as  well  exploited  as  it  has  since  become  ;  so  my  own 
observations  are  obsolete.  The  Zuiii  nation,  otherwise  (Juni,  Sune,  Soone, 
Suinyi,  Shiwina,  etc.,  sole  member  of  the  Zunian  linguistic  stock,  has  but  one 
permanent  pueblo,  though  it  also  inhabits  at  times  three  other  small  villages, 
of  the  nature  of  "  summer  resorts,"  as  we  should  say  of  our  similar  sestival 
refuges.  These  Indians  numbered  1,613  by  the  census  of  iSgo.  They  are 
well  distinguished  by  their  speech  from  all  the  various  Tusayan,  Tafioan,  and 
Keresan  pueblonians  of  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  and  Chihuahua :  for  some  of 
which,  see  next  note. 


PUEBLOS  IN  GENERE— TUSAYANS.  743 

with  its  age,  so  that  it  has  hitherto  bid  defiance  to  the  war 
of  time.  Its  composition  is  now  entirely  lost.  There  is 
also  found  at  this  place  many  broken  pieces  of  earthenware, 
which  still  possess  the  glazing  as  perfectly  as  when  first 
put  on. 

Aborigines."      The   Kyaways    [Kiowas]  wander  on    the 

'*  I  can  find  no  better  place  than  this  to  bring  up  some  matters  which  require 
attention  concerning  certain  pueblos  which  Pike  locates  on  his  map,  but 
which,  being  off  his  route,  he  does  not  notice  in  his  text.  The  Tanoan  pueblos 
have  been  pretty  fully  noted  in  the  foregoing  itinerary,  but  the  Tusayan  and 
Keresan  have  not  been  sufficiently  treated.  We  must  first  come  to  an  under- 
standing of  the  term  "  Pueblo  Indians."  This  is  simply  a  convenient  phrase, 
or  f  11(011  de parley,  to  designate  various  tribes  which,  in  New  and  Old  Mexico, 
and  Arizona,  settled  in  permanent  habitations,  became  attached  to  the  soil, 
practiced  agriculture,  kept  flocks,  and  built  the  kind  of  towns  called  "  pueblos." 
They  are  thus  collectively  distinguished  from  all  roving  and  more  or  less 
warring  tribes  ;  they  are  settlers,  not  nomads ;  farmers  and  graziers  rather  than 
hunters,  and  of  peaceful  rather  than  predatory  proclivities.  This  step  in  the  direc- 
tion of  civilization  was  not  however  taken  without  some  sacrifice  of  the  strength  of 
the  natural  wild  animal,  and  they  have  suffered  in  consequence.  They  are  never 
"  bad  "  Indians  ;  simply  poor,  tame  ones,  who  for  ages  have  been  the  prey  of 
the  priest,  the  trader,  and  the  wild  Indian.  But  the  point  to  be  insisted  on  is, 
that  "  Pueblo  Indian  "  does  not  mean  all  one  kind  of  Indians.  It  includes 
various  tribes  of  distinct  ethnic  characters,  the  representatives  of  several  linguis- 
tic lineages,  who  have  severally  yielded  to  their  environments,  and  thus  become 
collectively  modified  in  a  way  that  brings  about  that  appearance  of  aftinity 
which  does  not  exist,  and  tends  to  obscure  those  radical  distinctions  of  race 
which  do  exist.  We  say,  for  instance,  "  New  Yorker,"  meaning  anyone  who 
lives  in  New  York  ;  but  it  would  be  as  far  from  the  fact  to  suppose  that  all 
Pueblo  Indians  are  of  one  race  as  that  all  New  Yorkers  are  Americans.  The 
differences  in  language,  and  therefore  in  lineage,  of  the  Tusayan,  Keresan, 
Tanoan,  and  Zunian  pueblonians  is  as  great  as  that  of  the  English,  French, 
German,  and  Spanish  peoples.  We  must  not  be  misled  by  the  convenience  of 
a  phrase  :  see  note  ',  p.  578.  The  Pueblonians  to  be  here  noted  belong  either 
(l)  to  the  Tusayan  federation,  or  (2)  to  the  Keresan  linguistic  family. 

I.  Pike  marks,  W.  of  the  Continental  divide  and  in  the  region  of  the  Colo- 
rado Chiquito,  S.  of  the  San  Juan  r.,  six  Indian  villages,  which  he  calls  Oraybe, 
Mosanis,  Songoapt,  Gualpi,  Chacat,  and  Cumpa.  For  the  last  two,  see  note  -', 
p.  630  ;  the  other  four  are  the  well-known  Moki  Indians,  living  on  the  four  Moki 
mesas,  about  50  m.  N.  E.  of  the  Colorado  Chiquito,  in  N.  E.  Arizona.  With 
a  single  (Tafioan)  exception,  those  Indians  are  of  Shoshonean  stock  :  and  without 
exception,  they  form  the  Tusayan  confederacy.  The  ethnic  affinities  of  Mokisare 
with  such  Indians  as  the  Snakes,  Utes,  Comanches,  and  other  well-known  mem- 
bers of  the  Shoshonean  race  which  overran  so  vast  an  area  in  western  parts  of  the 


744  MOKIS  AND   OTHER   SHOSHONEANS. 

sources  of  La  Platte  and  are  supposed  to  be  i,000  men 
strong.  They  possess  immense  herds  of  horses,  and  are  at 
war  with  both  Pawnees  and  Tetaus  [letans,  Comanches], 
as  well  as  the  Sioux.  They  are  armed  with  bows,  arrows, 
and  lances,  and  hunt  the  buffalo.  This  nation,  with  the 
Tetaus  and  Utahs,  all  speak  the  same  language.  The  Utahs 
wander  at  the  sources  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  are  supposed 
to  be  2,000  warriors  strong,  are  armed  in  the  same  manner. 

United  States.  But  these  settled  down  in  Arizona  and  built  pueblos,  isolated 
from  their  kindred  and  surrounded  by  Athapascan  (Navajo  and  Apache)  tribes. 
They  are  at  present  the  only  Shoshonean  tribe  in  Arizona,  excepting  the  hand- 
ful of  Chemehuevis  who  live  among  Yuman  tribes  on  the  Colorado  Grande, 
and  unless  there  be  also  a  few  Kvvaiantikwokets  on  the  northern  border  about 
Mt.  Navajo.  The  Mokis  have  resided  in  their  present  position  for  more  than 
200  years.  This  habitat  is  the  plateau  of  moderate  extent,  commonly  called  the 
Moki  mesa,  some  special  elevations  of  which  are  well-known  landmarks  by  the 
name  of  the  Jloki  buttes,  in  full  view  from  the  main  road  which  passes  S.  of 
them.  Three  of  the  most  conspicuous  of  these  buttes  are  called  Chimney, 
Signal,  and  Spring.  The  mesa  is  between  long.  110°  and  iiiS  W.,  in  lat.  36? 
N.  and  southward,  and  thus  to  the  S.  W.  of  the  Navajos  ;  the  locality  is  some- 
times called  the  "  Province  of  Tusayan."  Here  the  Mokis  proper,  of  Shosho- 
nean stock,  built  six  villages  ;  and  a  seventh  village,  probably  also  about  200 
years  old,  called  Hano  (or  Tewa)  was  built  with  them  by  Tanoan  (Tewan  or 
Teguan)  refugees  from  the  Rio  Grande.  Thus  even  the  compact  and  isolated 
Moki  establishment  is  not  quite  homogeneous,  ethnically  speaking.  The 
Tusayan  census  is  about  2,000  ;  the  Tanoans  there  were  lately  counted  as  132. 
Among  the  names  of  the  seven  villages,  the  four  which  Pike  gives  can  be  recog- 
nized under  their  modern  spellings,  as  Oraybe=Oraibi,  etc.  One  authority  I 
have  consulted  renders  Oraibi,  Shipauliwisi,  Shongapavi,  Mishongnivi,  Shicho- 
amavi,  Walpi  (or  Hualpee),  and  Tewa  (i.  e.,  Hano).  Another,  and  probably 
preferable  set  of  orthographies,  is  Oraibi,  Shupaulovi,  Shumepovi,  Mashong- 
navi,  Sichumovi,  W.alpi,  and  Hano.  The  name  Tusayan,  which  varies  to 
Tu9ayan,  Tuzan,  etc.,  is  derived  from  a  Zunian  word  Usaya,  applied  to 
certain  pueblos  once  inhabited  by  the  confederacy.  The  Tusayans'  name  of 
themselves  is  a  word  variously  rendered  Hopituh,  Hapitu,  Hopee,  Hopi,  Opii, 
etc.  Other  words  designating  them,  or  some  of  them,  are  Cinyumuh,  Shenoma 
or  Shinumo,  and  Totonteac.  The  term  now  usually  rendered  Moki  was 
longest  current  as  Moqui  ;  it  is  also  found  as  Maqui,  Magui,  Mohace,  Mohotse, 
and  "  Monkey." 

2.  The  Keresan  family  consists  entirely  of  Pueblo  tribes  who  live  in  New 
Mexico  along  the  Rio  Grande  and  some  of  its  tributaries,  where  their  pueblos 
are  interspersed  with  others  of  Tanoan  stock,  in  the  moderate  area  to  which 
their  range  is  thus  restricted.     The  family  name  is  variously  rendered  by  differ- 


ROSTER  OF  THE   KERESANS.  745 

and  pursue  the  same  game,  as  the  Kyaways.  They  are, 
however,  a  little  more  civilized,  from  having  more  connec- 
tion with  the  Spaniards,  with  whom  they  are  frequently  at 
war,  but  were  then  at  peace,  and  waging  war  with  the 
Tetaus." 

A  battle  was  fought  between  them  and  the  Tetaus  in 
September,  1806,  near  the  village  of  Tons  [Taos] :  there 

ent  authors,  as  Keres,  Keran,  Kera  ;  Queres,  Queris,  Quera,  Quirix  ;  Chucha- 
cas  or  Chiichachas  ;  also,  Keswhawhay.  Some  ethnists  divide  these  people 
into  two  dialectal  groups :  one  including  the  pueblos  of  Acoma  and  Laguna 
and  their  outliers  ;  the  other,  all  the  rest  of  the  pueblos  about  to  be  named. 
Acoma  is  the  only  pueblo  which  exists  on  the  site  occupied  at  the  date  of  the 
earliest  Spanish  annals.  Laguna  dates  from  169^.  There  were  five  Keresan 
pueblos  in  1582  ;  there  had  been  seven  in  1542.  The  full  list  of  Keresan 
pueblos,  as  given  by  Powell  in  alphabetical  order,  with  the  census  for  l8go,  is  : 

1.  Acoma,  including  the  summer  pueblitos  of  Acomita  and  Pueblita  ;  pop.  566. 

2.  Cochiti,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  27  m.  S.  W.  of  Santa  Fe  ;  pop. 
268.  ' '  The  inhabitants  formerly  successively  occupied  the  Potrero  de  las 
Vacas,  the  Potrero  San  Miguel,  the  now  ruined  pueblo  of  Cuapa,  and  the 
Potrero  Viejo,"  Cent.  Cyc,  .y.  I'.  3.  *Hasatch.  4.  Laguna,  including  the  eight 
other  places  whose  names  are  here  starred;  pop.  1,143.  Laguna  is  thus  really 
a  group  of  small  pueblos  situated  on  and  near  Rio  San  Jose,  W.  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  The  original  foundation  was  by  Zuiiians  as  well  as  by  Keresans,  and 
the  place  was  called  KawaiUo.  5.  *Paguate.  6.  *Punyeestye.  7.  *Punyekia. 
8.  *Pusityitcho.  9.  .San  Felipe  ;  pop.  554.  This  is  called  by  the  name  of  the 
mission  which  the  Spanish  founded  there.  10.  Santa  Ana,  pop.  253,  on  the 
Rio  Jemez,  W.  of  the  Rio  Grande.  This  Spanish  name  is  also  that  of  a 
mission,  usurping  the  native  name  Tamaya.  11.  Santo  Domingo;  pop.  670. 
12.  *Seemunah.  13.  Sia,  on  the  Jemez  ;  pop.  106  ;  also  called  Chea,  Chia, 
Cia,  Cilia,  Silla,  Tsea,  Tsia,  Tzia,  Zia.  "In  1582  Sia  was  said  to  be  the 
largest  of  five  villages  forming  a  province  called  Punames.  The  recent  pueblo 
dates  from  about  1692,  when  the  village  formerly  occupied  was  abandoned. 
The  tribe,  which  was  once  comparatively  populous,  now  numbers  but  106. 
The  decrease  is  attributed  largely  to  infectious  disease  and  to  the  killing  of 
persons  accused  of  witchcraft,"  Cent.  Cyc,  i-.  z/.  14.  *\Vapuchuseamma.  15. 
*Ziamma.  Total  pop.  3,560  for  the  17  places,  of  which  15  (all  but  Acomita 
and  Pueblita)  are  permanent  pueblos,  and  7  are  officially  rated  as  principal  and 
distinct.  Those  which  are  given  by  Pike  in  his  itinerary  have  been  already 
noted,  along  with  the  Taiioan  pueblos  as  they  occur  in  his  text. 

"  For  remarks  on  the  Indians  mentioned  in  this  paragraph  which  would  be 
introduced  here  had  I  not  recently  given  them  elsewhere,  the  reader  is  referred 
to  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  1893,  p.  55,  note  ';  p.  58,  note  "  ;  p.  60,  note  "  ;  and  p 
477,  note  ". 


746  NAVAJOS — LI  PANS. 

were  about  400  combatants  on  each  side,  but  they  were 
separated  by  a  Spanish  alcalde  riding  out  to  the  field  of 
battle.  There  were  8  or  10  killed  on  each  side.  The  Utahs 
gave  all  the  horses  taken  to  the  Spaniards.  This  shows  in  a 
strong  degree  the  influence  the  Spaniards  have  over  those 
Indians. 

The  Nanahaws  [Navajos"]  are  situated  to  the  N.  W.  of 
Santa  Fe.  They  frequently  war  with  the  Spaniards,  and  are 
supposed  to  be  2,000  warriors  strong.  They  are  armed  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  two  preceding  nations.  This 
nation,  as  well  as  all  the  others  to  the  west  of  them  border- 
ing on  California,  speak  the  language  of  the  Appaches  and 
Le  Panis  [Lipans"],  who  are  in  a  line  with  them  to  the 
Atlantic. 

'«  The  Navajos,  Navahos,  or,  as  they  call  themselves,  Tennai,  are  one  of  the 
three  main  divisions  of  the  southern  group  of  .\thapascan  Indians  (the  other 
two  being  the  Lipans  and  the  Apaches).  They  have  always  lived,  so  far  as  is 
known  to  history,  in  the  country  where  they  do  now,  and  whence  they  raided 
in  every  direction  before  their  final  subjugation  in  our  times.  They  focused  on 
the  upper  waters  of  the  Rio  San  Juan,  in  N.  \V.  New  Mexico,  whence  they 
habitually  ranged  down  the  river  in  Colorado  and  Utah,  and  S.  of  it  in 
Arizona.  They  were  thus  in  contact  and  conflict  with  Shoshonean  tribes  on 
the  N.,  and  warred  when  they  pleased  with  the  various  Apache  tribes  of 
their  own  stock  which  were  about  them  ;  they  were  of  course  a  terror  to  the 
peaceful  Pueblonians,  who  had  to  hold  their  own  as  best  they  could  against  all 
the  battlesome  savages  by  whom  they  were  beset  on  every  hand.  They  were 
powerful,  and  are  still  one  of  the  largest  tribes  with  which  we  have  to  do,  like 
the  Comanches  and  some  of  the  divisions  of  the  Sioux.  A  late  census  returns 
about  17,000,  nearly  all  on  the  large  Navajo  reservation  which  occupies  the 
contiguous  N.  W.  corner  of  New  Mexico  and  N.  E.  corner  of  Arizona. 

An  interesting  account  of  the  expedition  of  Colonel  Doniphan  and  some  of  his 
officers  to  the  Navajos  in  1S46,  together  with  the  text  of  the  first  treaty  of  peace 
concluded  between  them,  the  New  Mexicans,  and  Americans,  at  Ojo  Oso  (Bear 
spring),  Nov.  22d,  occupies  Chaps.  IX-XI  of  Hughes'  Don.  Exp.,  8vo,  ed.  of 
1847,  pp.  61-76. 

"  The  Lipans  or  Sipans  cut  no  figure  now  in  the  United  States,  where  they 
are  practically  extinguished,  though  the  case  may  be  different  in  Mexico.  They 
were  a  numerous  and  roving  tribe  of  stalwart  Indians  who  scoured  the  plains 
of  Texas  from  Red  r.  to  the  Rio  Grande.  They  were  a  sort  of  Apaches, 
having  their  nearest  affinities  with  the  latter,  and  in  fact  might  be  considered 
the  Apaches  of  the  plains  as  distinguished  from  those  of  the  mountains.  They 
have  been  commonly  called  Lipan  Apaches,  and  such  is  no  incorrect  designa. 


CHARACTER   OF   THE   APACHE.  747 

The  Appaches"  are  a  nation  of  Indians  who  extend  from 
the  Black  mountains  in  New  Mexico  to  the  frontiers  of 
Cogquilla,  keeping  the  frontiers  of  three  provinces  in  a  con- 
tinual state  of  alarm,  and  making  it  necessary  to  employ- 
nearly  2,000  dragoons  to  escort  the  caravans,  protect  the 
villages,  and  revenge  the  various  attacks  they  are  continu- 
ally making  on  the  subjects  of  his  Catholic  Majesty.  This 
nation  formerly  extended  from  the  entrance  of  the  Rio 
Grande  to  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  have  waged  a  con- 
tinual warfare,  excepting  short  truces,  with  the  Spaniards, 

tion,  though  they  are  rather  more  distinct  from  most  bands  of  Apaches  than 
these  are  from  one  another.  They  extend  in  Mexico  as  far  S.  as  Durango. 
A  Lipan  collision  which  made  some  history,  and  enriched  the  cabinet  of  S.  G. 
Morton,  the  craniologist  of  Philadelphia,  may  be  read  in  Hughes'  Don.  Exped., 
pp.  130-132,  and  Wislizenus,  Mem.,  pp.  71,  72  :    see  also  note  ',  p.  697. 

'«  There  is  no  historic  period  when  the  Apaches  were  not  the  scourge  of  the 
country  they  inhabited,  down  to  the  time  when  they  were  brought  to  terms  by 
General  Crook,  in  his  Arizona  campaigns  of  1872  scq.,  and  even  since  then  their 
repeated  escapades  are  matters  of  recent  notoriety.  They  always  warred  with 
other  Indians,  always  warred  with  the  whites,  and  not  seldom  with  one  another. 
In  Arizona  particulariy,  so  far  as  we  are  concerned,  they  did  more  to  retard  the 
development  of  the  country  than  all  other  causes  combined.  For  some  years 
after  the  Territorial  government  was  established,  it  was  at  the  risk  of  life  that 
one  went  out  of  sight  of  Prescott  or  Fort  Whipple  alone  or  with  a  small  party. 
The  Apaches  lurked  behind  every  rock,  and  hid  in  eveiy  bush  ;  or,  failing 
that,  under  cover  of  every  three  blades  of  grass — a  trick  they  did  to  perfection— 
and  reddened  with  blood  every  trail  that  led  to  the  capital  or  the  post.  People 
were  killed  and  stock  was  run  off  within  a  few  hundred  paces  of  both  these 
places,  and  more  than  one  pitched  battle  came  off  within  ear-shot.  A  regular 
part  of  my  business  for  two  years  was  the  extraction  of  Apache  anow-heads. 
The  arrows  used  by  the  tribes  nearest  us  were  exactly  such  as  Pike  describes, 
though,  so  far  as  my  observation  went,  the  heads  were  all  of  stone,  quite  small 
and  sharp,  and  very  brittle,  so  that  they  usually  shivered  when  they  stnick  a 
bone  and  the  fragments  were  not  easily  removed.  They  were  only  held  in 
place  with  gum  in  the  shallow  notch  at  the  end  of  the  small  hardwood  stick 
that  was  set  in  the  large  reed,  and  thus  were  always  left  in  the  wound  when 
the  stick  was  pulled  out.  It  is  within  my  certain  knowledge  that  they  were  in 
some  cases  poisoned  ;  the  common  opinion  was  that  the  septic  substance  was 
derived  from  a  deer's  liver  into  which  a  rattlesnake  had  been  made  to  inject 
its  venom,  and  which  was  then  left  to  putrefy  in  the  sun  ;  but  how  this  case 
may  really  be,  I  never  ascertained  to  my  satisfaction.  We  continually  hunted 
Apaches  and  killed  a  good  many  ;  a  particular  friend  of  mine,  Mr.  Willard 
Rice,  who  saved  my  life  on  a  very  ticklish  occasion,  when  we  were  on  a  deer- 


748  CLASSIFICATION   OF  APACHES. 

from  the  time  these  pushed  their  enterprises  back  from 
Mexico  into  the  internal  provinces.  It  is  extremely  difficult 
to  say  what  are  their  numbers  at  the  present  day,  but  they 
must  be  very  much  reduced,  from  their  long  and  constant 
warfare,  the  wandering  and  savage  life  they  lead  in  the 
mountains,  which  is  so  injurious  to  an  increase  of  popula- 
tion, and  in  which  they  are  frequently  extremely  pinched 
by  famine. 

At  the  commencement  of  their  warfare  the  Spaniards 
used  to  take  them  prisoners  and  make  slaves  of  them  ;  but 
finding    that    their    unconquerable    attachment    to    liberty 

hunt  together  without  other  companions,  and  who  is  still  living  near  Prescott, 
is  to  be  credited  with  at  least  20  "good"  (dead)  Apaches — none  of  the  score 
women  or  children,  either.  But  such  desultory  operations  as  we  could  conduct 
in  those  years  seemed  to  make  little  difference  ;  it  required  Crook's  systematic 
campaigns,  on  a  large  scale,  to  render  the  country  inhabitable.  The  other  side 
of  the  picture  is,  that  the  Apache  has  never  committed  an  atrocity  that  we  have 
not  exchanged  in  kind,  with  the  sole  exception  that  we  have  probably  never  put 
a  prisoner  to  death  by  slow  torture,  as  was  the  Apache  custom  ;  that  the  Apache 
has  not  broken  faith  with  us  oftener  than  we  are  proud  to  say  we  have  with 
him,  and  has  not  robbed  us  of  more  than  we  would  like  to  take  from  him,  if  he 
had  anything  left  to  steal  and  we  had  an  opportunity.  The  secrets  of  Indian 
agencies,  like  those  of  the  Roman  confessional,  only  leak  out  under  great 
pressure.  The  Apaches  that  troubled  us  most  in  that  particular  vicinity  of 
which  I  speak  were  known  or  supposed  to  be  those  of  the  Tonto  basin,  com- 
monly called  Tontos  (Pinal  Coyoteros).  In  scientific  classification  the  Apache 
tribes  and  sub-tribes  are  numerous.  The  alphabetical  list  now  recognized  by 
high  authority  is :  Arivaipa,  Chiricahua,  Faraone,  Gileno  (Gilans,  or  Apaches 
of  the  Gila,  with  four  sub-tribes,  Coyotero,  Mimbrefio,  MogoUon,  and  Pinal 
Coyotero  or  Tonto),  Jicarilla,  Lipan,  Llanero,  Mescalero,  Naisha,  Querecho, 
Tchikun,  Tchishi.  All  the  Apaches  within  our  jurisdiction  have  been  brought 
under  military  subjection  and  restraint.  The  largest  body  of  Apaches  is  now 
on  the  San  Carlos  reservation  ;  their  number  is  uncertain,  say  2,000,  represent- 
ing several  different  tribes.  Nearly  .as  many  more  are  in  charge  of  the  military 
at  Camp  Apache,  in  Arizona,  say  1,900,  known  collectively  as  Wliite  Mountain 
Apaches.  About  800  Jicarillas  are  on  the  Southern  Ute  Reservations  in  Colo- 
rado ;  some  500  Mescaleros  are  on  the  reservation  of  that  name  in  New  Mexico  ; 
and  300  other  Apaches  are  on  the  Kiowa,  Comanche,  and  Wichita  Reservation 
in  Indian  Territory.  After  a  recent  outbreak  had  been  quelled  356  prisoners 
were  sent  to  Mount  Vernon  Barracks  in  Alabama.  There  are  about  150  chil- 
dren at  school  in  Carlisle,  Pa.  The  total  of  perhaps  6,000  Apaches  with  which 
we  have  still  to  deal  is  not  large  in  comparison  with  the  numbers  of  some  other 
tribes — but  it  is  enough. 


APACHE   ACCOUTERMENTS.  749 

made  them  surmount  every  difficulty  and  danger  in  return- 
ing to  their  mountains,  they  adopted  the  mode  of  sending 
them  to  Cuba.  This  the  Appaches  no  sooner  learned  than 
they  refused  to  give  or  receive  quarter,  and  in  no  instance 
have  any  been  taken  since  that  period,  except  those  sur- 
prised when  asleep,  or  knocked  down  and  overpowered. 

Their  arms  are  the  bow  and  arrow,  and  the  lance.  Their 
bow  forms  two  demi-circles,  with  a  shoulder  in  the  middle ; 
the  back  of  it  is  entirely  covered  with  sinews,  which  are 
laid  on  in  so  nice  a  manner,  by  the  use  of  some  glutinous 
substance,  as  to  be  almost  imperceptible ;  this  gives  great 
elasticity  to  the  weapon.  Their  arrow  is  more  than  the 
"  cloth  yard  "  of  the  English,  being  three  feet  and  a  half 
long,  the  upper  part  consisting  of  some  light  rush  or  cane, 
into  which  is  inserted  a  shaft  of  about  one  foot,  made  of 
some  hard,  seasoned  light  wood  ;  the  point  is  of  iron,  bone, 
or  stone,  and,  when  the  arrow  enters  the  body,  in  attempt- 
ing to  extract  it  the  shaft  comes  out  of  its  socket  and  the 
point  remains  in  the  wound.  With  this  weapon  they  shoot 
with  such  force  as  to  go  through  the  body  of  a  man  at  a 
distance  of  100  yards,  and  an  officer  told  me  that  in  an 
engagement  with  them,  one  of  their  arrows  struck  his  shield 
and  dismounted  him  in  an  instant.  Their  other  weapon  of 
offense  is  a  lance  of  15  feet  in  length,  with  which  they 
charge  with  both  hands  over  their  heads,  managing  their 
horses  principally  with  their  knees.  With  this  weapon  they 
are  considered  an  overmatch  for  any  Spanish  dragoon 
single-handed ;  but,  for  want  of  a  knowledge  of  tactics, 
they  can  never  stand  the  charge  of  a  body  which  acts  in 
concert.  They  all  carry  shields.  Some  few  are  armed 
with  guns  and  ammunition  taken  from  the  Spaniards. 
Those,  as  well  as  the  archers,  generally  march  to  war  on 
foot ;  but  the  lancemen  are  always  mounted.  Numerous 
are  the  anecdotes  I  have  heard  related  of  their  personal 
bravery  and  the  spirit  of  their  partisan  corps.  Not  long 
before  I  went  into  that  country  a  cornet,  with  63  dragoons, 
between  New  Mexico  and  Biscay,  was  surrounded  by  about 


750  ANECDOTES  OF  APACHES. 

200  Apaches'  infantry.  Instead  of  charging  through  them, 
as  [he  should  have  done,  since]  it  was  on  the  plain,  he 
ordered  his  dragoons  to  dismount  and  fight  with  their  cara- 
bines ;  in  consequence  of  which  he  and  his  whole  party  fell 
a  sacrifice. 

Malgares  related  an  instance  when  he  was  marching  with 
140  men  and  they  were  attacked  by  a  party  of  Appaches, 
both  horse  and  foot,  who  continued  the  fight  for  four  hours. 
Whenever  the  Spanish  dragoons  would  make  a  general 
charge,  the  Appaches'  cavalry  would  retreat  behind  their 
infantry,  who  met  the  Spaniards  with  a  shower  of  arrows, 
who  immediately  retreated  ;  and  even  the  gallant  Malgares 
spoke  of  the  Spanish  cavalry's  breaking  the  Appaches  infan- 
try as  a  thing  not  to  be  thought  of. 

Malgares  assured  me  that,  if  the  Appaches  had  seconded 
the  efforts  and  bravery  of  their  chieftain,  the  Spaniards 
must  have  been  defeated  and  cut  to  pieces;  that  in  various 
instances  he  rallied  his  men  and  brought  them  up  to  the 
charge,  and  that  when  they  fled,  he  retired  indignantly  to 
the  rear.  Seeing  Malgares  very  actively  engaged  in  forming 
and  bringing  up  the  Spaniards,  the  Appache  chieftain  rode 
out  ahead  of  his  party  and  challenged  him  to  single  combat 
with  his  lance.  This  my  friend  refused,  as  he  said  that  the 
chief  was  one  of  the  stoutest  men  he  knew,  carried  a  re- 
markably heavy  lance,  and  rode  a  very  fine  charger  ;  but  one 
of  his  corporals,  enraged  to  see  the  Spaniards  thus  braved 
by  this  savage,  begged  permission  to  meet  the  "  infidel." 
His  officer  refused  his  request  and  ordered  him  to  keep  his 
ranks;  but  he  reiterating  the  request,  his  superior  in  a 
passion  told  him  to  go.  The  Indian  chief  had  turned  his 
horse  to  join  his  party,  but  seeing  an  enemy  advancing,  he 
turned,  gave  a  shout,  and  met  him  at  full  speed.  The 
dragoon  thought  to  parry  the  lance  of  his  antagonist,  which 
he  in  part  effected  ;  but  not  throwing  it  quite  high  enough, 
it  entered  his  neck  before  and  came  out  at  the  nape,  when 
he  fell  dead  to  the  ground,  and  his  victorious  enemy  gave  a 
shout  of  victory,  in  which  he  was  joined  by  all  his  followers. 


ANECDOTES  OF  APACHES.  751 

This  enraged  the  Spaniards  to  such  a  degree  that  they  made 
a  general  charge,  in  which  the  Indian  cavalry  again  retreated, 
notwithstanding  the  entreaties  of  their  gallant  leader. 

In  another  instance  a  small  smoke  was  discovered  on  the 
prairie ;  three  poor  savages  were  surrounded  by  100  dra- 
goons and  ordered  to  lay  down  their  arms ;  they  smiled  at 
the  officer's  demand,  and  asked  him  if  he  could  suppose  that 
men  who  had  arms  in  their  hands  would  ever  consent  to 
become  slaves.  The  officer,  being  loath  to  kill  them,  held 
a  conference  for  an  hour ;  when,  finding  that  his  threats 
had  as  little  effect  as  his  entreaties,  he  ordered  his  men  to 
attack  them  at  a  distance,  keeping  out  of  the  reach  of  their 
arrows,  and  firing  at  them  with  their  carabines,  which  they 
did,  the  Indians  never  ceasing  to  resist  as  long  as  Ufe 
remained. 

In  a  truce  which  was  held  a  Spanish  captain  was  ordered 
to  treat  with  some  of  the  bands.  He  received  their  deputies 
with  hauteur,  and  they  could  not  come  upon  terms.  The 
truce  was  broken,  and  the  Indians  retreated  to  their  fast- 
nesses in  the  mountains.  In  a  day  or  two  this  same  officer 
pursued  them.  They  were  in  a  place  called  the  Door  in  the 
Mountain,  where  but  two  or  three  dragoons  could  enter  at 
a  time,  and  there  were  rocks  and  caves  on  the  flanks  behind 
which  the  Indians  secreted  themselves  until  a  number  of  the 
Spaniards  had  come  in.  Then  the  Indians  sounded  a 
trumpet;  the  attack  began,  and  continued  on  the  side  of 
the  Appaches  until  the  Spanish  captain  fell,  when  the  Indian 
chief  caused  the  firing  to  cease,  saying  that  the  man  who 
had  so  haughtily  spurned  the  proffered  peace  was  now 
dead.  On  this  occasion  they  deviated  from  their  accus- 
tomed rule  of  warfare,  and  made  a  prisoner  of  a  young 
officer,  who,  during  the  truce,  had  treated  them  with  great 
kindness,  and  sent  him  home  safe  and  unhurt. 

Some  of  the  bands  have  made  temporary  truces  with  the 
Spaniards,  and  received  from  them  25  cents  per  diem  each. 
Those  people  hang  round  the  fortifications  of  the  country, 
drink,  shoot,  and  dissipate  their  time  ;  they  are  haughty  and 


752  AN   APACHE   ASSASSIN — CIVILIZED    INDIANS. 

independent.  Great  jealousy  exists  between  them  and  the 
Spaniards.  An  officer  was  under  trial,  when  I  was  in  the 
country,  for  anticipating  an  attack  on  his  fortress  by  attack- 
ing the  chiefs  of  the  supposed  conspiracy,  and  putting  them 
to  death  before  they  had  time  to  mature  and  carry  their 
plan  into  execution.  The  decision  of  his  case  I  never 
learned  ;  but  those  savages  who  have  been  for  some  time 
about  the  forts  and  villages  become  by  far  the  most  danger- 
ous enemies  the  Spaniards  have,  when  hostile,  as  they 
have  acquired  the  Spanish  language,  manners,  and  habits, 
pass  through  the  populated  parts  under  the  disguise  of 
civilized  and  friendly  Indians,  commit  murders  and  rob- 
beries, and  are  not  suspected.  There  is  in  the  province  of 
Cogquilla  a  partisan  by  the  name  of  Ralph,  who,  they  cal- 
culate, has  killed  more  than  300  persons.  He  comes  into 
the  towns  under  the  disguise  of  a  peasant,  buys  provisions, 
goes  to  the  gambling-tables  and  to  mass,  and  before  he 
leaves  the  village  is  sure  to  kill  some  person  or  carry  off  a 
woman,  which  he  has  frequently  done.  Sometimes  he  joins 
people  traveling  on  the  road,  insinuates  himself  into  their 
confidence,  and  takes  his  opportunity  to  assassinate  them. 
He  has  only  six  followers,  and  from  their  knowledge  of  the 
country,  activity,  and  cunning,  he  keeps  about  300  Spanish 
dragoons  continually  employed.  The  government  has 
offered   $1,000  for   his   head. 

The  civilized  Indians  of  the  province  of  New  Mexico  are 
of  what  were  formerly  24  different  bands,  the  different 
names  of  which  I  did  not  become  acquainted  with,  but  the 
Keres  were  one  of  the  most  powerful ;  they  form  at  present 
the  population  of  St.  Domingo,  St.  Philips,  Deis,  and  one 
or  two  other  towns."  They  are  men  of  large  stature,  round 
full  visage,  fine  teeth,  appear  to  be  of  a  gentle,  tractable 
disposition,  and  resemble  the  Osage  more  than  any  nation 

"See  note  ",  p.  615,  note  ''',  p.  616,  note  ",  p.  618  ;  also,  note  ^*,  p.  743, 
The  towns  here  mentioned  are  those  usually  called  .San  Domingo,  San  Felipe, 
and  Sandia — the  latter  being  the  Tafioan  one  Pike  elsewhere  spealis  of  as  St. 
Dies. 


HARSH   TREATMENT  OF   CIVILIZED   INDIANS.  753 

of  whom  I  possess  any  knowledge.  They  are  not  the  vas- 
sals of  individuals,  yet  may  properly  be  termed  the  slaves 
of  the  State,  for  they  are  compelled  to  do  military  duty, 
drive  mules,  carry  loads,  or,  in  fact,  perform  any  other  act 
of  duty  or  bondage  that  the  will  of  the  commandant  of  the 
district,  or  of  any  passing  military  tyrant,  chooses  to  ordain. 

I  was  myself  eye-witness  of  a  scene  which  made  my  heart 
bleed  for  those  poor  wretches,  at  the  same  time  that  it 
excited  my  indignation  and  contempt,  that  they  would  suf- 
fer themselves,  with  arms  in  their  hands,  to  be  beaten  and 
knocked  about  by  beings  no  ways  their  superiors,  unless  a 
small  tint  of  complexion  could  be  supposed  to  give  that 
superiority.  Before  we  arrived  at  Santa  Fe,  one  night,  we 
were  near  one  of  the  villages  where  resided  the  families  of 
two  of  our  Indian  horsemen.  They  took  the  liberty  to  pay 
them  a  visit  in  the  night.  Next  morning  the  whole  of  the 
Indian  horsemen  were  called  up,  and  because  they  refused 
to  testify  against  their  imprudent  companions,  several  were 
knocked  down  from  their  horses  by  the  Spanish  dragoons 
with  the  butt  of  their  lances;  yet,  with  the  blood  streaming 
down  their  visages,  and  arms  in  their  hands,  they  stood  cool 
and  tranquil — not  a  frown,  not  a  word  of  discontent  or  palli- 
ation escaped  their  lips.  Yet  what  must  have  been  the 
boiling  indignation  of  their  souls  at  the  indignities  offered 
by  the  wretch  clothed  with  a  little  brief  authority  !  The 
day  of  retribution  will  come  in  thunder  and  in  vengeance. 

Those  savages  are  armed  with  bow  and  arrows,  and  with 
lances,  or  escopates.  Although  they  are  said  to  be  con- 
verted to  Christianity,  they  still  retain  many  of  their  ancient 
rituals,  feasts,  and  ceremonies,  one  of  which  is  so  remarkable 
it  must  not  be  passed  unnoticed.  Once  a  year  there  is  a 
great  feast  prepared  for  three  successive  days,  which  they 
spend  in  eating,  drinking,  and  dancing.  Near  this  scene  of 
amusement  is  a  dark  cave,  into  which  not  a  glimpse  of  light 
can  penetrate,  and  in  which  are  prepared  places  to  repose  on. 
To  this  place  persons  of  all  description,  of  both  sexes  and 
of  all  ages,  after  puberty,  repair  in  the  night,  when  there  is 


754  MYSTIC    RITES— DISCIPLINE — MORALS. 

an  indiscriminate  commerce  of  the  votaries,  as  chance,  for- 
tune, and  events  direct.  Those  revels  certainly  have  great 
affinity  to  some  of  the  ancient  mystic  rites  of  Greece  and 
Rome. 

Government  and  Laws.  The  government  of  New  Mexico 
may  be  termed  military,  in  the  pure  sense  of  the  word  ;  for 
although  they  have  their  alcaldes,  or  inferior  oflficers,  their 
judgments  are  subject  to  a  reversion  by  the  military  com- 
mandants of  districts.  The  whole  male  population  are  sub- 
ject to  military  duty,  without  pay  or  emolument,  and  are 
obliged  to  find  their  own  horses,  arms,  and  provision.  The 
only  thing  furnished  by  the  government  is  ammunition.  It 
is  extraordinary  with  what  subordination  they  act  when 
they  are  turned  out  to  do  military  duty.  A  strong  proof  of 
this  was  exhibited  in  the  expedition  of  Malgares  to  the 
Pawnees.  His  command  consisted  of  lOO  dragoons  of  the 
regular  service  and  500  drafts  from  the  province.  He  had 
continued  down  the  Red  river  until  their  provision  began  to 
be  short ;  they  then  demanded  of  the  lieutenant  where  he 
was  bound  and  the  intention  of  the  expedition.  To  this  he 
haughtily  replied,  "  Wherever  my  horse  leads  me."  A  few 
mornings  after  he  was  presented  with  a  petition,  signed  by 
200  of  the  militia,  to  return  home.  He  halted  immediately, 
caused  his  dragoons  to  erect  a  gallows,  and  then  beat  to 
arms.  The  troops  fell  in  ;  he  separated  the  petitioners  from 
the  others,  then  took  the  man  who  had  presented  the  peti- 
tion, tied  him  up  and  gave  him  50  lashes,  and  threatened 
to  put  to  death,  on  the  gallows  erected,  any  man  who 
should  dare  to  grumble.  This  effectually  silenced  them, 
and  quelled  the  rising  spirit  of  sedition  ;  but  it  was  remarked 
that  it  was  the  first  instance  of  a  Spaniard  receiving  corporal 
punishment  ever  known  in  the  province. 

Morals,  Manners,  etc.  There  is  nothing  peculiarly  char- 
acteristic in  this  province  that  will  not  be  embraced  in  my 
general  observations  on  New  Spain,  except  that,  being  on 
the  frontier  and  cut  off,  as  it  were,  from  the  more  inhabited 
parts  of  the  kingdom,  together  with  their  continual  wars 


MILITARY   FORCE — RELIGION — HISTORY.  755 

with  some  of  the  savage  nations  who  surround  them,  renders 
the  people  the  bravest  and  most  hardy  subjects  in  New 
Spain  ;  being  generally  armed,  they  know  the  use  of  arms. 
Their  want  of  gold  and  silver  renders  them  laborious,  in 
order  that  the  productions  of  their  labor  may  be  the  means 
of  establishing  the  equilibrium  between  them  and  the  other 
provinces  where  those  metals  abound.  Their  isolated  and 
remote  situation  also  causes  them  to  exhibit,  in  a  superior 
degree,  the  heaven-like  qualities  of  hospitality  and  kindness, 
in  which  they  appear  to  endeavor  to  fulfill  the  injunction  of 
the  scripture  which  enjoins  us  to  feed  the  hungry,  clothe 
the  naked,  and  give  comfort  to  the  oppressed  in  spirit ;  and 
I  shall  always  take  pleasure  in  expressing  my  gratitude  for 
their  noble  reception  of  myself  and  the  men  under  my 
command. 

Military  Force.  There  is  but  one  troop  of  dragoons  in 
all  New  Mexico  of  the  regular  force,  which  is  stationed  at 
Santa  Fe,  and  is  lOO  strong.  Of  this  troop  the  governor  is 
always  the  captain,  entitling  himself  captain  of  the  royal 
troop  of  Santa  Fe  dragoons ;  but  they  are  commanded  by 
a  first  lieutenant,  who  is  captain  by  brevet.  The  men 
capable  of  bearing  arms  in  this  province  may  be  estimated 
at  5,000,  of  which  probably  1,000  are  completely  armed,  1,000 
badly,  and  the  rest  not  at  all. 

Religion.  The  catholic  religion  is  practiced  in  this  prov- 
ince after  the  same  manner  as  in  the  other  provinces,  and 
will  hereafter  be  taken  notice  of  generally. 

History.  In  the  year  1594  two  friars  came  out  from  Old 
Mexico  to  New  Mexico,  and  were  well  received  by  the  sav- 
ages. They  returned,  and  the  ensuing  year  Juan  de  Ouate," 
a  monk,  went  out,  explored  the  country,  and  returned. 
After  this   100  troops  and  500  men,  women,  and  children 

"  Juan  de  Onate,  first  governor  of  New  Mexico,  b.  Guadalajara,  Mex, ,  about 
1555.  <!■  after  1611.  "  He  was  a  son  of  the  founder  of  Guadalajara,  and  was 
married  to  a  granddaughter  of  Hernando  Cortes.  In  1595  his  proposition  to 
settle  New  Mexico  was  accepted  by  the  viceroy  Velasco,  and  after  much  delay 
the  grant  was  confirmed  by  the  Count  of  Monterey.  Onate  left  Zacatecas  in 
Jan.,  1598,  with  130  men  besides  Indians,  a  large  wagon-  and  cattle-train,  etc.; 


756        PUEBLO  REVOLT — JAMES  PURSLEY. 

came  out  and  settled  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  at  some  no  very 
great  distance  from  where  Santa  Fe  now  stands.  They 
entered  into  an  arrangement  with  the  Indians  on  the  sub- 
ject of  their  establishment ;  but  a  few  years  after  [in  1680] 
the  Indians  rose  en  masse,  fell  on  the  Spaniards  by  surprise, 
killed  most  of  the  soldiers,  and  obliged  them  to  retreat  to 
the  Passo  del  Norte ;  whence  it  acquired  its  name.  Here 
they  awaited  a  re-enforcement  from  Biscay,  which  they 
received,  of  70  men  and  two  field-pieces,  with  which  they 
recommenced  their  march  and  finally  arrived  at  Santa  Fe, 
then  the  capital  Indian  village,  to  which  they  immediately 
laid  siege.  The  Indians  maintained  themselves  22  days, 
when  they  surrendered  and  entered  into  a  second  negotia- 
tion ;  since  which  time  the  Spaniards  have  been  engaged  in 
continual  warfare  with  the  various  savage  tribes  which  sur- 
round them  on  all  sides.  These  have  been  near  ruining  the 
Spaniards  several  times,  and  obliged  them  to  apply  for 
re-enforcements  from  Biscay  and  Senora.  A  few  years  since 
the  Tetaus  carried  on  a  warm  and  vigorous  war  against 
them,  but  are  now  at  peace  and  considered  as  their  firmest 
allies. 

In  the  history  of  New  Mexico  it  may  not  be  improper  to 
record  the  name  of  James  Pursley,  the  first  American  who 
ever  penetrated  the  immense  wilds  of  Louisiana,  and  showed 
the  Spaniards  of  New  Mexico  that  neither  the  savages  who 
surround  the  deserts  which  divide  them  from  the  habitable 
world,  nor  the  jealous  tyranny  of  their  rulers,  was  sufificient 
to  prevent  the  enterprising  spirit  of  the  Americans  from 
penetrating  the  arcanum  of  their  rich  establishment  in  the 
new  world.  Pursley  was  from  near  Baird's  town,  Kentucky, 
which  he  left  in  1799.  In  1802,  with  two  companions,  he 
left  St.  Louis  and  traveled  west,  on  the  head  of  the  Osage 

reached  the  Rio  Grande,  probably  at  El  Paso,  April  20  ;  took  formal  possession 
April  30  ;  crossed  the  river  ;  and  in  Aug.  founded  the  first  capital,  San  Juan 
(Santa  Fe  was  founded  later).  After  the  first  year  he  had  little  trouble  with  the 
Indians.  Early  in  I5gg  he  explored  a  part  of  Arizona,  and  in  1604  followed  the 
Gila  river  down  to  the  Gulf  of  California.  He  probably  ceased  to  rule  as  gov- 
ernor in  1608."     (Cent.  Cyc.  Names,  .r.  ».)  (See  Nadal  and  Niza,  in  the  Index.) 


JAMES   PURSLEY,   THE   PIONEER.  757 

river,  where  they  made  a  hunt ;  thence  they  struck  for  the 
White  river  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  intended  to  descend  it  to 
Orleans ;  but,  while  making  preparations,  the  Kans  stole 
their  horses.  They  secured  their  peltries,  and  pursued  the 
Kans  into  the  village.  The  horses  were  there,  but  the  Indians 
refused  to  give  them  up.  Pursley  saw  his  horse,  with  an 
Indian  on  him,  going  to  the  water  at  the  edge  of  the  town, 
pursued  him,  and  with  his  knife  ripped  open  the  horse's 
bowels.  The  Indian  returned  to  the  village,  got  his  gun, 
and  came  and  snapped  it  at  Pursley,  who  pursued  him  into 
the  village  with  his  knife.  The  Indian  took  refuge  in  a 
lodge  surrounded  by  women  and  children.  This  struck  the 
chiefs  with  astonishment  and  admiration  of  the  "  mad 
Americans,"  as  they  termed  them,  and  they  returned  the 
other  horses  to  the  hunters.  This  anecdote  was  related  by 
traders  who  had  been  in  the  village  at  the  time. 

Pursley  and  his  companions  then  returned  to  where  they 
had  buried  their  peltry,  and  determined  to  pursue  the  route 
by  land  to  St.  Louis ;  but  some  persons  stole  their  horses  a 
second  time,  when  they  were  at  no  great  distance  from  the 
Osage  river,  on  which  they  formed  a  rough  canoe  and 
descended  that  stream.  Near  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri 
they  overset  their  canoe  and  lost  their  whole  year's  hunt, 
but  saved  their  arms  and  ammunition,  which  is  always  the 
primary  object  in  a  desert.  On  the  Missouri  they  met 
Monsieur  [Blank]  in  his  barge,  bound  to  the  Mandanes. 
Pursley  embarked  with  him  for  the  voyage ;  his  two  com- 
panions preferred  returning  to  their  homes.  On  their 
arrival  at  the  point  of  destination,  his  employer  dispatched 
Pursley  on  a  hunting  and  trading  tour  with  some  bands  of 
the  Paducahs  and  Kyaways,  with  a  small  quantity  of  mer- 
chandise. In  the  ensuing  spring  they  were  driven  from  the 
plains  by  the  Sioux  into  the  mountains  which  give  birth  to 
La  Platte,  the  Arkansaw,  etc.,  and  it  was  their  sign  which 
we  saw  in  such  amazing  abundance  on  the  headwaters  of 
La  Platte  [in  South  Park,  Col.,  Dec.  16,  1806].  Their  party 
consisted    of    near    2,000   souls,    with    10,000  beasts.      The 


7S8  JAMES  PURSLEY  IN  NEW   MEXICO. 

Indians,  knowing  they  were  approximating  to  New  Mexico, 
determined  to  send  Pursley,  with  his  companions  and  two 
of  their  body,  into  Santa  Fe,  to  know  of  the  Spaniards  if 
they  would  receive  tliem  friendly  and  enter  into  a  trade 
with  them.  This  being  acceded  to  by  Governor  Allencaster, 
the  Indian  deputies  returned  for  their  bands ;  but  Pursley 
thought  proper  to  remain  with  a  civilized  people,  among 
whom  a  fortuitous  event  had  thrown  him — a  circumstance  of 
which,  he  assured  me,  he  had  at  one  time  entirely  despaired. 
He  arrived  at  Santa  Fe  in  June,  1805,  and  has  been  fol- 
lowing his  trade  as  a  carpenter  ever  since  ;  at  this  he  made 
a  great  deal  of  money,  except  when  working  for  the  officers, 
who  paid  him  little  or  nothing.  He  was  a  man  of  strong 
natural  sense  and  dauntless  intrepidity.  He  entertained 
me  with  numerous  interesting  anecdotes  of  his  adventures 
with  the  Indians,  and  of  the  jealousy  of  the  Spanish  govern- 
ment. He  was  once  near  being  hanged  for  making  a  few 
pounds  of  gunpowder,  which  he  innocently  did  as  he  had 
been  accustomed  to  do  in  Kentucky,  but  which  is  a  capital 
crime  in  these  provinces.  He  still  retained  the  gun  which 
he  had  with  him  his  whole  tour,  and  said  confidently  that 
if  he  had  two  hours'  start  not  all  the  province  could  take 
him.  He  was  forbidden  to  write,  but  was  assured  he  should 
have  a  passport  whenever  he  demanded  it,  and  was  obliged 
to  give  security  that  he  would  not  leave  the  country  with- 
out permission  of  the  government.  He  assured  me  that  he 
had  found  gold  on  the  head  of  La  Platte,  and  had  carried 
some  of  the  virgin  mineral  in  his  shot-pouch  for  months; 
but  that,  being  in  doubt  whether  he  should  ever  again 
behold  the  civilized  world,  and  losing  in  his  mind  all  the 
ideal  value  which  mankind  have  stamped  on  that  metal,  he 
threw  the  sample  away.  He  had  imprudently  mentioned  it 
to  the  Spaniards,  who  had  frequently  solicited  him  to  go 
and  show  a  detachment  of  cavalry  the  place  ;  but,  conceiv- 
ing it  to  be  in  our  territory,  he  had  refused,  and  was  fearful 
that  the  circumstance  might  create  a  great  obstacle  to  his 
leaving  the  country. 


NEW  BISCAY — GEOGRAPHY — METEOROLOGY.  759 

2.  Biscay.  Geography.  [The  province  of  Nueva  Vizcaya  "] 
lies  between  lat.  33°  and  24°  N.,  and  long.  105°  and  iii^W. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  Mexico,  on  the  west  by 
Senora  and  Sinaloa,  and  on  the  east  by  New  Leon  and 
Cogquilla.  It  is  600  miles  in  length  from  northwest  to 
southeast,  and  400  miles  in  width  from  east  to  west,  taking 
it  at  its  greatest  extent. 

Air  and  Climate.  The  air  is  dry  and  the  heat  very  great 
at  that  season  of  the  year  which  precedes  the  rainy  season, 
which  latter  commences  in  June  and  continues  until  Sep- 
tember by  light  showers.  During  the  other  part  of  the 
year  there  is  not  the  least  rain  or  snow  to  moisten  the  earth. 
The  atmosphere  had  therefore  become  so  electrified  that 
when  we  halted  at  night,  in  taking  ofT  our  blankets  the 
electric  fluid  would  almost  cover  them  with  sparks,  and  in 
Chihuahua  we  prepared  a  bottle  with  gold-leaf  as  a  re- 
ceiver, and  collected  sufficient  electric  fluid  from  a  bear-skin 
to  give  a  considerable  shock  to  a  number  of  persons.  This 
phenomenon  was  more  conspicuous  in  the  vicinity  of  Chi- 
huahua than  in  any  other  part  that  we  passed  over." 

Mines  attd  Minerals.  This  province  abounds  in  silver 
and  gold  mines,  which  yield  an  immense  quantity  of  those 
metals,  but  not  so  great  a  revenue  to  the  king  as  those 
which  are  nearer  the  mint,  and  consequently  present  a 
greater  facility  to  coinage.     I  am  not  acquainted  with  the 

"  The  province  which  Pike  calls  indifferently  Biscay  and  New  Biscay  was 
properly  Nueva  Vizcaya.  It  was  named  Reino  de  la  Nueva  Vizcaya  by  Fran- 
cisco de  Ibarra,  who  invaded  it  about  1560-70,  and  retained  the  name  until 
after  the  independence.  As  a  colonial  division  of  New  Spain  it  had  been 
originally  called  Copala,  and  was  much  more  extensive  than  Pike's  Biscay,  as  it 
corresponded  to  the  present  states  of  Sonora,  Sinaloa,  Chihuahua,  Durango, 
and  a  southern  part  of  Coahuila.  This  region  was  included  among  the  Pro- 
vincias  Intemas  in  1777,  and  such  was  its  status  in  Pike's  time  ;  but  meanwhile 
it  had  become  contracted  in  extent  by  the  exclusion  of  Sonora  and  Sinaloa,  so 
that  in  Pike's  time  it  was  little  if  any  more  than  equivalent  to  the  two  present 
states  of  Chihuahua  and  Durango.  Present  Chihuahua  has  Sinaloa  and  Durango 
on  the  S.  Present  Durango  is  surrounded  by  Sinaloa,  Chihuahua,  Coahuila, 
Zacatecas,  and  Jalisco. 

"  Wislizenus,  Mem.,  p.  55,  quotes  this  passage,  and  adds  :   "  By  rubbing  the 


760  MINES  AND    MINERALS  OF   NEW   BISCAY. 

proportion  of  the  metals  which  the  mineral  yields  in  any 
instance,  except  in  one  of  the  silver  mines  at  Chihuahua, 
which  belonged  to  a  friend  of  mine,  who  informed  me  that 
his  mine  yielded  him  $13.50  per  cwt.  I  one  day,  with  Rob- 
inson, went  through  many  of  these  furnaces  and  noticed  the 
manner  which  they  pursued  in  analyzing  the  mineral  and 
extracting  the  metals;  but,  as  I  had  previously  asked  sev- 
eral Spanish  officers  to  accompany  me,  who  had  always 
declined  or  deferred  it  to  a  future  period,  I  conceived  it 
probable  it  was  too  delicate  a  subject  to  make  a  minute 
inquiry  into.  I,  however,  so  far  observed  the  process  as  to 
learn  that  the  mineral  was  brought  from  the  mines  in  bags, 
on  mules,  to  the  furnace  ;  it  was  then  ground  or  pounded 
into  small  lumps,  not  more  than  the  size  of  a  nut,  and  pre- 
cipitated into  water,  in  a  sieve  which  permitted  the  smaller 
particles  to  escape  into  a  tub,  through  several  progressive 
operations.  From  the  small  particles  which  remained  at  the 
bottom  of  the  tubs,  after  it  had  been  purified  of  the  earthy 
qualities,  there  was  a  proportion  of  metal  extracted  by  a 
nicer  process ;  but  the  larger  parts  were  put  into  a  furnace 
similar  to  our  iron  furnaces,  and  when  the  mass  was  in  a 
state  of  fusion,  it  was  let  out  into  a  bed  of  sand  prepared 
for  it,  which  formed  it  into  bars  about  the  size  of  our  com- 
mon pig  iron,  averaged  in  value  at  about  $2,500.  The  gold 
was  cast  into  a  mold  similar  to  a  bowl  and  stamped  with  its 
value,  as  was  each  bar  of  silver,  by  the  king's  assayer  of 
metals.  They  were  worth  from  $8,000  to  $10,000.  These 
masses  of  silver  and  gold  are  received  into  the  king's  trea- 

hair  of  cats  and  dogs  in  the  dark,  I  could  elicit  here  a  greater  mass  of  electricity 
than  I  had  ever  seen  produced  in  this  way.  Some  persons,  entitled  to  confi- 
dence, informed  me  that  by  changing  their  woollen  under-dress  in  the  night, 
they  had  at  first  been  repeatedly  frightened  by  seeing  themselves  suddenly  en- 
veloped in  a  mass  of  electrical  fire.  The  remarkable  flames  that  appeared  after 
a  thunder-storm  in  the  mountains  south  of  El  Paso,  already  mentioned  by  me 
[Mem.  p.  43],  were  no  doubt  connected  with  electricity.  I  recollect  also,  from 
an  account  published  in  relation  to  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  that  during  a 
sultry  evening  electrical  flames  were  seen  on  the  points  of  the  bayonets  among 
the  sentinels  stationed  in  the  mountains." 


MINES  AND   MINERALS   OF  NEW   BISCAY.  761 

sury  in  payment,  and  in  fact  have  a  currency  tlirough  the 
kingdom ;  but  there  are  vast  speculations  made  on  the  coin- 
age, as  people  who  have  not  large  capital  prefer  selling  their 
bullion  in  the  internal  provinces,  at  a  considerable  discount, 
to  being  obliged  to  transport  it  to  Mexico,  in  order  to  have 
it  converted  into  specie.  The  present  C[ommandant  ?],  I 
was  informed,  was  engaged  in  this  trafific,  on  which,  from 
the  province  of  Senora,  he  sometimes  made  25  per  cent. 
Numbers  of  the  proprietors  who  have  no  immediate  use  for 
their  bullion  put  it  into  their  cellars,  where  it  remains  piled 
up  for  their  posterity,  of  no  service  to  themselves  or  the 
community. 

There  are  at  Chihuahua  and  in  its  vicinity  15  mines,  13 
silver,  one  gold,  and  one  copper,  the  furnaces  of  all  of  which 
are  situated  round  the  town  and  suburbs,  and  present,  except 
on  Sundays,  volumes  of  smoke  arising  to  the  eye  in  every 
direction,  which  can  be  seen  from  a  distance  long  before 
the  spires  of  the  city  strike  the  view.  It  is  incredible  the 
quantity  of  cinders  which  surround  the  city  in  piles  10  or  15 
feet  high  ;  next  the  creek  they  have  formed  a  bank  of  it  to 
check  the  encroachments  of  the  stream,  and  it  presents  an 
effectual  barrier.  I  am  told  that  an  European  employed 
some  hands  and  wrought  at  the  cinders,  which  yielded  $1.25 
for  each  per  day  ;  but  that  this  not  answering  his  expecta- 
tions, he  ceased  his  proceedings. 

At  Mausseme  [Mapimi]  there  are  one  gold  and  seven  silver 
mines.  At  Durango  there  are  many  rich  mines,  but  the 
number  to  me  is  unknown.  There  are  also  gold  mines  in 
the  Sierra  Madre,  near  Alomas  [Alamos],  and  many  others 
of  which  I  have  no  knowledge.  There  is  in  the  province, 
about  100  miles  south  of  Chihuahua,  a  mountain  or  hill  of 
loadstone.  Walker,  who  had  been  on  the  ground  and  sur- 
veyed it,  informed  me  it  appeared  to  be  in  solid  strata,  as 
regular  as  those  of  limestone,  or  any  other  of  the  species. 
He  had  brought  home  a  square  piece  of  near  a  foot  and  a 
half,  was  preparing  some  to  be  sent  to  Spain,  and  likewise 
forming  magnets  to  accompany  it,  in  order  that  their  com- 


762  RIVERS   AND    LAKES   OF  NEW   BISCAY. 

parative  strength  might  be  ascertained  with  magnets  formed 
in  Europe. 

Rivers J''  Rio  Conchos  is  the  largest  in  the  province.  It 
takes  its  source  in  the  Sierra  Madre,  near  Batopilis,  in  lat. 
28°  N.,  and  discharges  itself  into  the  Rio  del  Norte  [at  the 
Presidio  del  Norte]  in  lat.  31",  after  a  course  of  about  300 
miles.  It  is  the  largest  western  branch  of  the  Rio  del  Norte, 
and  receives  in  its  course  the  Rio  Florido  from  the  east  and 
San  Paubla  [now  San  Pedro]  from  the  west.  Where  we 
struck  the  Conchos,  it  appeared  to  be  nearly  as  large  as  the 
Rio  del  Norte  at  the  Passo. 

The  Rio  San  Paubla  is  the  largest  western  branch  of  the 
Conchos;  it  heads  in  lat.  28"  50'  N.,  and  empties  into  the 
latter  at  Bakinoa  [?].  Its  whole  course  is  about  150  miles; 
in  summer  it  is  nearly  dry,  and  in  the  rainy  seasons  im- 
passable. 

The  Rio  Florido  takes  its  rise  in  lat.  26°  30'  N.,  and  after 
a  course  of  about  150  miles  discharges  into  the  Conchos. 
Guaxequillo  is  situated  on  its  east  bank,  about  its  center. 

The  Rio  Nassas  [Nasas]  is  in  part  the  line  between  Biscay 
and  Cogquilla ;  it  runs  north  and  sinks  in  the  lake  du  Cay- 
man [Laguna  del  Muerto] ;  it  is  nearly  dry  in  the  dry  sea- 
sons, but  at  some  seasons  it  is  impassable. 

Lakes.  Lac  du  Cayman  and  lac  du  Parras  are  two  small 
lakes  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  [in  the  Bolson 
de  Mapimi],  and  are  full  of  fish. 

Animals,  Insects,  etc.  There  are  some  few  bears,  deer, 
and  wild  horses,  but  they  are  not  in  abundance.     The  scor- 

^'  For  these,  see  the  itinerary,  Apr.  30th-May  13th,  pp.  668-678,  and  notes 
there.  The  lakes  Pike  proceeds  to  mention  are  in  or  on  the  border  of  present 
Coahuila.  The  situation  of  the  Presidio  del  Norte,  where  the  Conchos  dis- 
charges, is  lat.  29"  33'  53"  N.,  long.  104°  36'  27"  W.,  by  the  river  346  m. 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Pecos,  and  34S  below  El  Paso — both  of  these  distances 
much  in  excess  of  the  direct  line  between  these  points.  "  Batopilis  "  is  very  far 
out  for  the  source  of  the  Conchos,  unless  Pike  refers  to  some  other  place  than 
the  modem  Batopilas.  This  is  situated  below  lat.  27°  N.,  and  in  the  Pacific 
water-shed,  being  on  a  branch  of  the  Rio  del  Fuerte,  which  runs  from  Chihuahua 
through  Sinaloa  and  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  California  at  Point  Ahome. 


SCORPIONS   OF   DURANGO.  763 

pions  of  Durango  are  one  of  the  most  remarkable  instances 
of  the  physical  effects  of  climate  or  air  that  I  ever  saw 
recorded.  They  come  out  of  the  walls  and  crevices  in  May, 
and  continue  about  a  fortnight  in  such  numbers  that  the 
inhabitants  never  walk  in  their  houses  after  dark  without  a 
light,  and  always  shift  or  examine  the  bed-clothes  and  beat 
the  curtains  previous  to  going  to  bed  ;  after  which  the  cur- 
tains are  secured  under  the  bed,  similar  to  the  precautions 
we  take  with  our  mosquito  curtains.  The  bite  of  those 
scorpions  has  been  known  to  prove  mortal  in  two  hours. 
The  most  extraordinary  circumstance  is  that  by  taking  them 
10  leagues  from  Durango  they  become  perfectly  harmless 
and  lose  all  their  venomous  qualities.  Query:  Does  it 
arise  from  a  change  of  air,  sustenance,  or  what  other  cause  ? " 

^  Before  undertaking  to  answer  this  query,  it  would  be  well  to  ascertain  the 
fact.  The  scorpions  which  Pike  describes  are  known  by  the  Spanish  name 
alacran,  and  I  presume  are  closely  related  to  the  widely  distributed  Androdonus 
biaculeatus,  if  not  the  same  species.  Kendall's  Narrative  of  the  Texan  Expe- 
dition of  1841,  pub.  Lond.,  1845,  II.  p.  114,  cites  Pike  in  this  connection,  and 
also  has  :  "I  believe  that  the  city  of  Durango  is  somewhat  celebrated  for  the 
beauty  and  talent  of  its  women — I  know  that  it  is  noted  for  the  numbers  and 
venomous  qualities  of  its  alicrans,  or  scorpions.  Frequently,  while  travelling 
through  the  State  of  Durango,  were  we  regaled  with  Mexican  stories  of  the 
swarms  of  poisonous  alicrans  which  infest  the  capital.  .  .  A  bounty  of  some 
three  or  six  cents  ...  is  paid  by  the  authorities  for  each  insect  secured,  and 
according  to  some  of  the  stories  told  us,  no  inconsiderable  business  is  carried  on 
in  catching  and  bottling  the  much  dreaded  scorpions."  When  Gregg  was  in 
Durango,  March,  1835,  he  noted  that  city  "as  being  the  headquarters,  as  it 
were,  of  the  whole  scorpion  family.  During  the  spring,  especially,  so  much  are 
the  houses  infested  by  these  poisonous  insects,  that  many  people  are  obliged 
to  have  resort  to  a  kind  of  mosquito  bar,  in  order  to  keep  them  out  of  their 
beds  at  night.  As  an  expedient  to  deliver  the  city  from  this  terrible  pest,  a 
society  has  already  been  formed,  which  pays  a  reward  of  a  cuartilla  (three  cents) 
for  every  alacran  (or  scorpion)  that  is  brought  to  them.  Stimulated  by  the 
desire  of  gain,  the  idle  boys  of  the  city  are  always  on  the  look-out  ;  so  that,  in 
the  course  of  a  year,  immense  numbers  of  this  public  enemy  are  captured  and 
slaughtered.  The  body  of  this  insect  is  of  the  bulk  and  cast  of  a  medium 
spider,  with  a  jointed  tail  one  or  two  inches  long,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a 
sting  whose  wounds  are  so  poisonous  as  often  to  prove  fatal  to  children,  and  are 
very  painful  to  adults.  The  most  extraordinary  peculiarity  of  these  scorpions  is, 
that  they  are  far  less  dangerous  in  the  north  than  in  the  south,  which  in  some 
manner  accounts  for  the  story  told  Capt.  Pike,  that  even  those  of  Durango  lose 


764  STATISTICS   OF    NEW   BISCAY. 

Population  and  Chief  Towns.  The  population  of  Biscay 
may  be  estimated  at  200,000 :  of  these  three-twentieths  may 
be  Spaniards  from  Europe,  five-twentieths  Creoles,  five- 
twentieths  Metifs  and  Quatroons,  and  seven-twentieths 
Indians.  Durango  [or  Guadiana]  was  founded  in  1550.  It 
is  the  principal  city,  the  seat  of  government  for  the  province 
of  Biscay  and  of  the  bishopric  of  Durango.  Its  population 
may  be  estimated  at  40,000  souls.  It  is  situated  in  lat.  25° 
N.  and  long.  107°  W. 

Pallalein,  situated  somewhere  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra 
Madria  [Madre],  is  supposed  to  contain  25,000  souls. 

Chihuahua,"  the  place  of  residence  of  the  commandant- 
general  of  the  internal  provinces,  was  founded  in  1691  ;  it 

most  of  their  venom  as  soon  as  they  are  removed  a  few  miles  from  the  city,"  says 
Gregg,  very  sensibly,  Comm.  Pra.,  II.  1844,  p.  8g.  Hughes,  Doniphan  Exp., 
p.  128;  "  the  soldiers  would  sometimes  shake  their  blankets,  toss  .  .  .  the 
lizards  and  alacrans,  exclaiming  angrily,  '  d n  the  scorpion  family  ! '  " 

'*  Gregg,  Comm.  Pra.,  II.  1844,  p.  114,  cites  Pike  in  his  own  description  of 
Chihuahua,  as  it  appeared  to  him  in  1839,  and  the  two  accounts  may  be  here 
brought  together.  Noting  the  regularity  of  the  city  in  comparison  with  Santa 
Fe,  the  dressing  of  the  best  buildings  with  hewn  _  stone,  the  paving  of  some  of 
the  streets,  and  the  population  of  about  10,000,  this  author  continues  : 

"  The  most  splendid  edifice  in  Chihuahua  is  the  principal  church,  which  is 
said  to  equal  in  architectural  grandeur  anything  of  the  sort  in  the  republic.  The 
steeples,  of  which  there  is  one  at  each  front  corner,  rise  over  100  feet  above  the 
azotea  [roof].  They  are  composed  of  very  fancifully-carved  columns  ;  and  in 
appropriate  niches  of  the  frontispiece,  which  is  also  an  elaborate  piece  of  sculp- 
ture, are  to  be  seen  a  number  of  statues,  as  large  as  life,  the  whole  forming  a 
complete  representation  of  Christ  and  the  I2  Apostles.  This  church  was 
built  about  a  century  ago,  by  contributions  levied  upon  the  mines  (particularly 
those  of  Santa  Eulalia,  15  or  20  miles  from  the  city),  which  paid  over  a  per- 
centage on  all  the  metal  extracted  therefrom  ;  a  medio  [b^^  cents],  I  believe, 
being  levied  upon  each  marco  of  eight  ounces.  In  this  way,  about  a  million  of 
dollars  was  raised  and  expended  in  some  30  years,  the  time  employed  in  the 
construction  of  the  building.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  however,  that,  notwithstand- 
ing the  enormous  sums  of  money  expended  in  outward  embellishments,  there  is 
not  a  church  from  thence  southward,  perhaps,  where  the  interior  arrangements 
bear  such  striking  marks  of  poverty  and  neglect.  If,  however,  we  are  not 
dazzled  by  the  sight  of  these  costly  decorations  for  which  the  churches  of 
Southern  Mexico  are  so  much  celebrated,  we  have  the  satisfaction  of  knowing 
that  the  turrets  are  well  provided  with  bells,  a  fact  of  which  every  person  who 
visits  Chihuahua  very  soon  obtains  auricular  demonstration.     One,  in  particular, 


CITY   OF   CHIHUAHUA.  765 

is  situated  in  lat.  29°  N.,  long.  107°  30'  W.  Its  population 
may  be  estimated  at  7,000.  It  is  an  oblong  square,  on  the 
east  side  of  a  small  stream  which  discharges  into  the  river 
Conchos.  On  its  south  extremity  is  a  small  but  elegant 
church.  In  the  public  square  stands  the  principal  church, 
royal  treasury,  town-house,  and  the  richest  shops.     At  the 

is  so  large  and  sonorous  that  it  lias  frequently  been  heard,  so  I  am  informed,  at 
the  distance  of  25  miles. 

"  A  little  below  the  Plaza  Mayor  stand  the  ruins  (as  they  may  be  called)  of 
San  Francisco — the  mere  skeleton  of  another  great  church  of  hewn  stone,  which 
was  commenced  by  the  Jesuits  previous  to  their  expulsion  in  1767,  but  never 
finished.  By  the  outlines  still  traceable  amid  the  desolation  which  reigns 
around,  it  would  appear  that  the  plan  of  this  edifice  was  conceived  in  a  spirit  of 
still  greater  magnificence  than  the  Parroquia  which  I  have  been  describing. 
The  abounding  architectural  treasures  that  are  mouldering  and  ready  to  tumble 
to  the  ground  bear  sufficient  evidence  that  the  mind  which  had  directed  its 
progress  was  at  once  bold,  vigorous,  and  comprehensive. 

"  This  dilapidated  building  has  since  been  converted  into  a  sort  of  state 
prison,  particularly  for  the  incarceration  of  distinguished  prisoners.  It  was 
here  that  the  principals  of  the  famous  Texan  Santa  Fe  Expedition  were  confined, 
when  they  passed  through  the  place,  on  their  way  to  the  City  of  Mexico.  This 
edifice  has  also  acquired  considerable  celebrity  as  having  received  within  its 
gloomy  embraces  several  of  the  most  distinguished  patriots,  who  were  taken 
prisoners  during  the  first  infant  struggles  for  Mexican  independence.  Among 
these  was  the  illustrious  ecclesiastic,  Don  Miguel  Hidalgo  y  Costilla,  who  made 
the  first  declaration  at  the  village  of  Dolores,  September  l6,  1810.  He  was 
taken  prisoner  in  March,  1811,  some  time  after  his  total  defeat  at  Guadalaxara  ; 
and  being  brought  to  Chihuahua,  he  was  shot  on  the  30th  of  July  following,  in 
a  little  square  back  of  the  prison,  where  a  plain  white  monument  of  hewn  stone 
has  been  erected  to  his  memory.  It  consists  of  an  octagon  base  of  about  25  feet 
in  diameter,  upon  which  rises  a  square,  unornamented  pyramid  to  the  height  of 
about  30  feet.  The  monument  indeed  is  not  an  unapt  emblem  of  the  purity 
and  simplicity  of  the  curate's  character. 

"  .\mong  the  few  remarkable  objects  which  attract  the  attention  of  the 
traveller  is  a  row  of  columns  supporting  a  large  number  of  stupendous  arches 
which  may  be  seen  from  the  heights,  long  before  approaching  the  city  from  the 
north.  This  is  an  aqueduct  of  considerable  magnitude  which  conveys  water  from 
the  little  river  of  Chihuahua,  to  an  eminence  above  the  town,  whence  it  is  passed 
through  a  succession  of  pipes  to  the  main  public  square,  where  it  empties  itself 
into  a  large  stone  cistern  ;  and  by  this  method  the  city  is  supplied  with  water. 
This  and  other  public  works  to  be  met  with  in  Chihuahua,  and  in  the  southern 
cities,  are  glorious  remnants  of  the  prosperous  times  of  the  Spanish  empire.  No 
improvements  on  so  exalted  a  scale  have  ever  been  made  under  the  republican 
government.   .   .  .     jOjaldpor  los  dias  f dices  del  Rey!" 


766  CITY   OF   CHIHUAHUA. 

western  extremity  is  another  church  for  the  military,  a 
superb  hospital  belonging  formerly  to  the  Jesuits'  posses- 
sions, the  church  of  the  monks  of  St.  Francis,  St.  Domingo, 
the  military  academy,  and  quartel  del  tropa.  On  the  north- 
west were  two  or  three  missions,  very  handsomely  situated 
on  a  small  stream  which  comes  in  from  the  west.  About 
one  mile  to  the  south  of  the  town  is  a  large  aqueduct  which 
conveys  the  water  round  it,  to  the  east,  into  the  main  stream 
below  the  town,  in  the  center  of  which  is  raised  a  reservoir 
for  the  water,  whence  it  is  to  be  conducted  by  pipes  to  the 
different  parts  of  the  city,  and  in  the  public  square  is  to  be 
a  fountain  a.ndjet  d'eaii,  which  will  be  both  ornamental  and 
useful.  The  principal  church  at  Chihuahua  was  the  most 
superb  building  we  saw  in  New  Spain.  Its  whole  front  was 
covered  with  statues  of  the  apostles  and  the  different  saints, 
set  in  niches  of  the  wall,  and  the  windows,  doors,  etc.,  were 
ornamented  with  sculpture.  I  never  was  within  the  doors, 
but  was  informed  by  Robinson  that  the  decorations  were 
immensely  rich.  Some  men,  whom  we  supposed  entitled  to 
credit,  informed  us  that  the  church  was  built  by  a  tax  of 
12^  cents  laid  on  each  ingot  of  gold  or  silver  taken  out  of 
the  mines  in  the  vicinity  in  [blank]  years.  Its  cost,  with 
decorations,  was  $1,500,000,  and  when  it  was  finished  there 
remained  $300,000  of  the  fund  unappropriated.  At  the 
south  side  of  Chihuahua  is  the  public  walk,  formed  by  three 
rows  of  trees  whose  branches  nearly  entwine  over  the  heads 
of  the  passengers  below.  At  different  distances  there  are 
seats  for  persons  to  repose  on.  At  each  end  of  the  walks 
there  were  circular  seats,  on  which,  in  the  evening,  the 
company  collected  and  amused  themselves  with  the  guitar, 
and  songs  in  Spanish,  Italian,  and  French,  adapted  to  the 
voluptuous  manners  of  the  country.  In  this  city,  as  well  as 
all  others  of  any  consideration,  there  are  patrols  of  soldiers 
during  the  night,  who  stop  every  person  at  nine  o'clock 
and  examine  them.     My  countersign  was  "  Americans." 

Trade,  Commerce,  and  Manufactures.     Biscay  trades  with 
North  Mexico,  Senora,  and  the  viceroyalty,  from  the  latter 


COMMERCE,   AGRICULTURE,   SOIL,  ETC.  767 

of  which  places  they  bring  on  mules  all  their  dry  goods, 
European  furniture,  books,  ammunition,  etc.  They  furnish 
a  great  quantity  of  horses,  mules,  sheep,  beeves,  and  goats, 
to  the  parts  of  the  kingdom  which  are  more  populous  and 
have  less  spare  ground  for  pasturage,  etc.  Some  persons 
make  large  fortunes  by  being  carriers  from  Mexico  to  Chihua- 
hua, the  freight  being  $8  per  cwt.,  and  they  generally  put- 
ting 300  pounds  on  each  mule.  The  merchants  make  their 
remittances  twice  a  year  in  bullion.  Goods  sell  at  Chihua- 
hua at  about  200  per  cent,  on  the  prices  of  our  Atlantic  sea- 
port towns.  Their  horses  average  at  $6,  but  some  have  sold 
as  high  as  $100;  their  trained  mules  at  S20,  but  extraordi- 
nary matches  for  carriages  have  sold  at  $400  per  pair.  Rice 
sells  at  $4  per  cwt.  They  manufacture  some  few  arms, 
blankets,  stamped  leather,  embroidery,  coarse  cotton  and 
woolen  cloths,  and  a  species  of  rough  carpeting.  Their 
blankets  average  $2,  but  some  sell  as  high  as  $25. 

Agriculture.  They  cultivate  wheat,  corn,  rice,  oats,  cot- 
ton, flax,  indigo,  and  vines.  What  I  have  said  relative  to 
the  cultivation  of  those  articles  in  New  Mexico  will  equally 
apply  to  this  province  ;  but  it  may  be  proper  to  observe 
here  that  one  of  Nolan's  men  constructed  the  first  cotton- 
gin  they  ever  had  in  the  province,  and  that  Walker  had 
caused  a  few  churns  to  be  made  for  some  private  families, 
and  taught  them  the  use  of  them. 

Timber,  Plains,  and  Soil.  To  the  north  of  Chihuahua, 
about  30  miles  to  the  right  of  the  main  road,  there  is  some 
pine  timber  ;  at  a  spring  on  this  side  of  Carracal  [Carrizal]  we 
saw  one  walnut  tree,  and  on  all  the  small  streams  there  are 
shrubby  cotton  trees.  With  these  few  exceptions  the  whole 
province  is  a  naked,  barren  plain,  which  presents  to  the  eye 
an  arid,  unproductive  soil,  more  especially  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  mines  ;  even  the  herbage  appears  to  be  poisoned  by 
the  mineral  qualities  of  the  soil. 

Antiquities.  There  are  none  in  the  province  which  came 
within  my  notice  but  the  Jesuits'  college  and  church  at  Chi- 
huahua, which  were  about  a  century  old,  and  used  as  hos- 


768  ABORIGINES   OF   NEW   BISCAY. 

pitals.  In  these  there  was  nothing  peculiar,  except  a  certain 
soHdity  and  strength,  in  which  they  appeared  to  surpass  the 
other  pubHc  buildings  of  the  city. 

Aborigines.  There  are  no  uncivilized  savages  in  this 
province  except  the  Appaches,  of  whom  I  have  spoken 
largely.  The  Christian  Indians  are  so  incorporated  amongst 
the  lower  grades  of  Metifs  that  it  is  scarcely  possible  to 
draw  the  line  of  distinction,  except  at  the  ranchos  of  noble- 
men or  large  landholders,  where  they  are  in  a  state  of  vassal- 
age [peonage].  This  class  of  people  laid  a  conspiracy,  which 
was  so  well  concerted  as  to  baffle  the  inquiries  of  the 
Spaniards  for  a  length  of  time,  and  to  occasion  them  the  loss 
of  several  hundred  inhabitants.  The  Indians  used  to  go  out 
from  their  villages  in  small  parties  ;  in  a  short  time  a  part 
would  return  with  the  report  that  they  had  been  attacked  by 
the  Indians  ;  the  Spaniards  would  immediately  send  out  a 
detachment  in  pursuit,  when  they  were  led  into  an  ambus- 
cade and  every  soul  cut  off.  They  pursued  this  course  so 
long  that  the  whole  province  becamed  alarmed  at  the  rapid 
manner  in  which  their  enemies  multiplied;  but  some  circum- 
stances leading  to  suspicion,  they  made  use  of  the  super- 
stition of  those  people  for  their  ruin.  Some  ofificers  dis- 
guised themselves  like  friars  and  went  round  amongst  the 
Indians,  pretending  to  be  possessed  of  the  spirit  of  proph- 
ecy. They  preached  up  to  the  Indians  that  the  day  was 
approaching  when  a  general  delivery  from  Spanish  tyranny 
was  about  to  take  place,  and  invited  the  Indians  to  join  in 
concerting  with  them  the  work  of  God.  The  poor  creatures 
came  forward,  and  in  their  confessions  stated  the  great  hand 
that  had  already  been  put  to  the  work.  After  these  pre- 
tended friars  had  ascertained  the  nature  and  extent  of  the 
conspiracy,  and  had  a  body  of  troops  prepared,  they  com- 
menced the  execution  and  put  to  death  about  400  of  the 
unsuspecting  Indians.  This  struck  terror  and  dismay 
through  the  Indian  villages,  and  they  dared  not  rise  to 
declare  their  freedom  and  independence. 

Government  and  Laws.     In  this  province  there  is  some 


LAWS,    MANNERS,   MORALS,   ETC.  769 

shadow  of  civil  law  ;  but  it  is  merely  a  shadow,  as  the  fol- 
lowing anecdote  may  illustrate  :  An  officer,  on  arriving  at 
a  village,  demanded  quarters  for  himself  and  troops.  The 
supreme  civil  ofificer  sent  him  word  that  he  must  show  his 
passport.  The  military  officer  immediately  sent  a  file  of 
men,  who  brought  tlie  judge  a  prisoner  before  him,  when 
he  severely  reprimanded  the  judge  for  his  insolence  and 
obliged  him  to  obey  his  orders  instantly.  This  was  done 
by  a  subaltern,  in  a  city  of  20,000  inhabitants.  The  only 
laws  which  can  be  said  to  be  in  force  are  the  military 
and  ecclesiastic,  between  which  there  is  a  perfect  under- 
standing. 

The  governor  is  a  brigadier-general,  resides  at  Durango, 
and  receives  $5,000  in  addition  to  his  pay  in  the  line.  It  is 
proper  to  observe  that  there  are  ordinances  to  bear  on  each 
subject  of  civil  discussion  ;  but  the  administration  of  them 
is  so  corrupt  that  the  influence  of  family  and  fortune  gener- 
ally procures  the  determination  that  they  have  right  on 
their  side. 

In  each  town  is  a  public  magazine  for  provisions,  to  which 
every  farmer  brings  whatever  grain  and  produce  he  may 
have  for  sale,  and  where  he  is  sure  to  find  a  market ;  and 
should  there  be  a  scarcity  the  ensuing  year,  it  is  retailed  out 
to  the  inhabitants  at  a  reasonable  rate.  To  this  place  all 
the  citizens  of  the  town  repair  to  purchase. 

Morals,  Manners,  etc.  There  is  nothing  peculiar  in  the 
manners  or  morals  of  the  people  of  this  province,  but  a 
much  greater  degree  of  luxury  among  the  rich,  misery 
among  the  poor,  and  a  corruption  of  morals  more  general 
than  in  New  Mexico.  As  to  military  spirit,  they  have  none. 
At  a  muster  of  a  regiment  of  militia  at  Chihuahua  one  of  my 
men  attended,  and  informed  me  that  there  were  about  25 
who  had  fire-arms  and  lances,  50  with  bows  and  arrows  and 
lances,  and  the  balance  with  lances  or  bows  and  arrows  only. 

Military  Force.  The  regular  military  force  of  Biscay  con- 
sists of  1,100  dragoons,  distributed  as  follows:  On  the 
frontiers  of  the  deserts  of  New  Mexico  and  Senora,  at  the 


"jyo  RELIGION   OF   NEW   BISCAY — SONORA. 

forts  of  Elisiaira  [Elizario],  Carracal  [Carrizal],  San  Buena- 
ventura, Presidio  del  Norte,  Janos,  Tulenos,  and  San  Juan 
Baptist  [Bautista].  Farther  south  are  Chihuahua,  Jeronime 
[Jeronimo  or  Hieronimo],  Cayone,  San  Paubla  [Pablo], 
Guaxequillo  [Guajuquilla],  and  Conchos,  with  several  other 
places  which  are  appendages  of  those  positions.  The  com- 
plement of  each  of  tiiose  posts  is  150  men,  but  may  be  aver- 
aged at  1,100  in  all,  say  100  at  each  post.  The  militia  are 
not  worthy  of  particular  notice. 

Religion.  Biscay  is  in  the  diocese  of  Durango,  the  bishop's 
salary  being  estimated  at  $100,000  per  annum.  The  catho- 
olic  religion  is  here  in  its  full  force,  but  the  inferior  clergy 
are  very  much  dissatisfied.  The  people's  superstition  is  so 
great  that  they  run  after  the  holy  father  in  the  streets,  en- 
deavoring to  kiss  the  hem  of  his  garment ;  and  should  the 
bishop  be  passing  the  street,  the  rich  and  poor  all  kneel. 

History.  I  shall  not  presume  to  say  anything  on  this 
subject,  except  that  I  believe  this  province  has  been  popu- 
lated about  270  years. 

3.  Senora.  Geography.  The  province  of  Senora  lies  be- 
tween lat.  33°  and  27°  N.,  and  long.  110°  and  117°  W.  Its 
greatest  length  from  north  to  south  is  about  420  miles,  and 
its  width  from  east  to  west  380  miles.  It  is  bounded  north 
by  New  Mexico,  west  by  California,  south  by  Sinaloa  and 
the  gulf,  east  by  Biscay  and  New  Mexico."' 

Air  and  Climate.  Dry,  pure,  and  healthy  generally,  but 
near  the  gulf  the  ground  is  marshy,  and  it  is,  in  some  of  the 
districts,  unhealthy. 

Mines,  Minerals,  and  Fossils.     On  this  subject  I  can  only 

"  Sonora  then  was  nearly  the  same  as  the  present  State  of  that  name,  but  lost 
a  northern  strip  (the  Gadsden  Purchase)  to  our  Arizona,  and  also  lost  its  New 
Mexican  line.  For  the  present  boundary  between  it  and  the  United  States, 
running  on  lat.  31°  20'  N.  to  long,  lii"  W.,  see  note  '-,  p.  645.  In  Mexico 
Sonora  is  now  bounded  on  the  E.  by  Chihuahua,  on  the  S.  by  Sinaloa,  and  on 
the  W.  by  the  Gulf  of  California,  except  the  short  extent  to  which  the  Colorado 
r.  separates  it  from  Lower  California.  Area,  77,550  sq.  m.;  pop.  140,500; 
capital,  Hermosillo,  pop.  7,000;  principal  seaport,  Guaymas,  pop.  5,500,  situ- 
ated in  lat.  27°  56'  N.,  long.  110°  36'  W. 


MINES,   RIVERS,   ANIMALS,   ETC.,   OF   SONORA.         77 1 

speak  in  general.  Senora  abounds  in  rich  gold  and  silver 
mines,  but  more  especially  the  former,  inasmuch  as  gold 
does  not  preserve  its  usual  exchange  with  silver  in  this 
province.  General  Salcedo  told  me  that  in  this  province 
the  largest  piece  of  pure  gold  had  been  found  ever  yet  dis- 
covered in  New  Spain,  and  that  it  had  been  sent  to  the 
king  to  be  put  in  his  cabinet  of  curiosities. 

Rivers^  Rio  de  I'Ascencion  is  a  short  river  which  enters 
the  Gulf  of  California  about  31°  N.  lat.  Rio  Yaqui  heads 
on  the  borders  of  Biscay  and  Senora,  and  discharges  into 
the  Gulf  of  California  in  Guyamas  [Guaymas],  lat.  23°  N. 

Timber,  Plams,  and  Soil.  This  province  is,  like  Biscay, 
destitute  of  timber,  but  has  some  rich  soil  near  the  gulf. 

Animals.  There  are  deer,  cabrie,  and  bear;  there  are 
also  remarkably  large  lizards  \Ctenosaura  teres  of  Harlan], 
which  are  said  to  weigh  ten  pounds  ;  these  are  perfectly 
harmless,  tamed  by  the  inhabitants,  and  trained  to  catch 
mice. 

Population  and  Chief  Toivns.  The  population  of  Senora 
may  be  estimated  at  200,000  souls,  of  which  three-twenti- 
eths probably  are  Spaniards,  four-twentieths  Creoles,  six- 
twentieths  Metifs,  and  seven-twentieths  Indians. 

Arispea  [Arizpe "],  the  capital  of  Senora,  and  until  20 

"  The  whole  Sonoran  water-shed  is  Pacific,  and  the  river-system  runs  on 
general  S.  and  S.  W.  courses  to  the  Gulf,  in  a  series  of  somewhat  parallel 
streams.  The  northernmost  one  of  these,  of  any  size,  which  Pike  calls  Ascen- 
cion  r.,  I  find  lettered  Rio  Altar  ;  its  main  branch  is  Rio  Magdalena  ;  some  of 
its  ultimate  sources  are  in  Arizona,  in  the  country  about  Arivaca,  Tubac,  and 
old  Fort  Mason  ;  it  discharges  between  George's  bay  and  Cape  Tepoca.  The 
Sonora  is  much  larger,  with  a  main  branch  called  San  Miguel  ;  it  discharges 
opposite  Tiburon  isl.  Arizpa,  which  Pike  speaks  of  as  near  the  head  of  the 
Yaqui,  is  high  up  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Sonora  ;  lower  down  is  Hermo- 
siUo  (lat.  29°  10'  N.,  long.  110°  45'  W.).  The  Yaqui  is  the  largest  Sonoran 
river,  falling  into  the  Gulf  below  Guaymas  and  above  Point  Lobos.  It  has 
two  main  forks,  Rio  Moctezuma  and  Rio  Bavispe.  Rio  Matape,  a  small  river, 
is  the  one  that  falls  in  at  Guaymas,  and  not  the  Yaqui.  Another  small  one, 
Rio  Mayo,  falls  in  below  Vacamora  and  Point  Rosa.  Rio  Alamos,  which 
heads  in  Sonora,  falls  over  the  Sinaloan  boundary. 

"  Arizpe  is  now  a  small  place,  with  a  population  of  probably  4,000,  and  is  of 
interest  chiefly  to  the  antiquarian.     The  original  mission  of  Arizpe  was  already 


772        TRADE,   ABORIGINES,   LAWS,   ETC.,   OF   SONORA. 

years  past  the  seat  of  government  of  the  internal  provinces, 
is  situated  in  lat.  31°  N.  and  long.  111°  W.,  near  the  head 
of  the  river  Yaqui.  It  is  celebrated  throughout  the  king- 
dom for  the  urbanity  and  hospitality  of  its  inhabitants, 
and  the  vast  quantity  of  gold  table  utensils  made  use  of 
in  their  houses.  Its  population  is  3,400  souls.  Sonora 
and  Terenate  are  the  next  cities  in  magnitude  in  the  prov- 
ince, the  latter  to  the  north  and  the  former  to  the  south  of 
the  capital. 

Trade  and  Commerce.  Senora  trades  with  New  Mexico 
and  Biscay  for  the  productions  of  those  different  provinces, 
and  with  Old  Mexico  both  by  land  and  sea,  through  the 
gulf  of  California.  It  is  celebrated  for  its  cheese,  horses, 
and  sheep. 

Agricnlture.     They  cultivate  the  same  as  in  Biscay. 

Aborigines.  There  are  a  number  of  savage  nations  bor- 
dering on  Senora,  which  obliges  the  king  to  keep  up  a 
number  of  military  posts  on  the  north  and  west  frontiers  ; 
but  the  names  of  the  tribes,  or  any  of  their  distinguishing 
characters,  I  am  unacquainted  with.  However,  it  may  not 
be  improper  to  observe  that  they  are  armed  with  bows, 
arrows,  shields,  and  lances,  like  their  savage  neighbors. 
The  civilized  Indians  are  in  the  same  situations  as  in  the 
other  provinces. 

Government  and  Laws.  Similar  to  Biscay,  the  governor 
being  a  brigadier-general  and  receives  $7,000  in  addition 
to  his  pay  in  the  line. 

Morals  and  Majincrs.  In  every  respect  similar  to  Biscay, 
except  that  they  are  more  celebrated  for  hospitality. 

Military  Force.     The  regular  military  force  of  this  prov- 


over  150  years  old  in  Pike's  time,  and  the  place  is  believed  to  have  been  an 
Opata  village  as  early  as  1540.  The  derivation  of  the  name  is  given  as  the 
Opata  word  arit,  meaning  "  ant."  The  name  Arizpe  suggests  the  obvious  con- 
jecture, that  the  root  of  tlie  word  Arizona,  the  derivation  of  which  has  been  so 
much  mooted,  may  be  here  found.  How  this  may  be,  I  do  not  know  ;  but 
Arizona  does  not  appear  to  I)e  Spanish,  and  certainly  any  such  etymology  as 
Lat.  arida  zona,  which  has  been  adduced  among  others,  is  fictitious. 


MILITARY   FORCE,   ETC.,   OF  SONORA.  773 

ince  is  900  dragoons  and  200  infantry,  stationed  as  follows  : 
Tubson,  San  Cruz,  Tubac,  and  Altac  on  the  north,  with  roo 
dragoons  each  for  a  garrison  ;  Fiuntenas,  Bacuachi,  Ba vista, 
and  Horcasites  in  the  center,  with  300  dragoons  and  200 
infantry  ;  Buenavista  on  the  south,  with  100  dragoons  as  a 
garrison."  The  infantry  mentioned  above  are  of  a  nation 
of  Indians  called  the  Opejas,  and  are  said  to  be  the  best 
soldiers  in  New  Spain.  I  saw  a  detachment  of  them  at 
Chihuahua  who  appeared  to  be  fine,  stout,  athletic  men, 
and  were  the  most  subordinate  and  faithful  troops  I  ever 
knew,  acting  like  a  band  of  brothers  and  having  the  great- 
est attachment  for  their  officers. 

Religion.  Catholic,  in  the  diocese  of  the  bishop  of 
Durango. 

History.  I  am  unacquainted  with  it,  except  that  the  seat 
of  government  of  the  internal  provinces  was  formerly  at 
Arispea,  at  which  time  the  government  of  California  was 
also  under  the  commandant-generalcy  of  the  internal 
provinces ;  but  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  government  to 
Chihuahua  and  the  disjunct  situation  of  California  induced 
his  Majesty  to  annex  it  to  the  government  of  the  vice- 
royalty.  The  increasing  magnitude  of  the  relations  of 
New  Spain  with  the  United  States  also  gave  an  importance 
to  the  eastern  interests  which  induced  the  continuance  of 
the  seat  of  government  at  Chihuahua. 

4.  SiNALOA.     Geography.     The   province  of  Sinaloa  lies 

"Tubson  is  now  Tucson,  Ariz.  San  Cruz  is  Santa  Cruz,  also  in  Arizona, 
on  or  near  the  branch  of  the  Gila  of  that  name.  Tubac  is  likewise  now  Ari- 
zonian,  being  a  place  about  on  long.  Ill'  W.,  N.  W.  of  Nogales,  and  not  far 
from  old  Forts  Mason  and  Crittenden.  Altac  is  Altar,  on  the  Sonoran  river 
of  that  name.  "  Fiuntenas  "  I  take  to  be  a  misprint  for  Fronteras,  a  place  on 
one  of  the  headwaters  of  the  Yaqui,  about  lat.  31°  N.  Bacuachi  is  on  one  of 
the  branches  of  the  Sonora  r.,  above  Arizpe.  Bavista  is  Bavispe,  a  place  high 
up  on  the  river  of  that  name,  close  to  the  eastern  border  of  the  State.  Hor- 
casites, to  judge  from  its  location  on  Pike's  map,  was  on  or  near  the  Sonora  r. , 
in  the  vicinity  of  present  Ures  ;  but  I  have  not  found  the  place.  Near  it 
Pike  locates  a  Presidio  San  Antonio,  omitted  from  the  text.  Buenavista  is  a 
place  low  down  on  the  Yaqui  r. ;  the  present  road  from  Punta  de  Agua  on  Rio 
Matape  goes  through  it  to  Batacoso,  Alamos,  and  so  on. 


774  STATISTICS  OF  SINALOA. 

between  lat.  23°  and  28°  N.,  and  long.  108°  and  111°  W. 
It  is  bounded  north  by  Senora  and  Biscay,  east  by  the 
latter,  south  by  the  administration  of  Guadalaxara,  and 
west  by  the  gulf  of  California ;  in  its  greatest  length  it  is 
300  miles  north  and  south,  and  in  width  from  east  to  west 
150  miles." 

Air  and  Climate.  On  the  sea-coast  humid,  but  back  [of 
the  coast]  dry  and  pure. 

Mines,  Minerals,  and  Fossils.  There  are  both  gold  and 
silver  mines  ;  but  with  their  relative  value  or  productions  I 
am  unacquainted. 

Rivers."  Rio  [del]  Fuerte  takes  its  source  in  lat.  27°  N. 
and  long.  1 10°  W.,  and  disembogues  into  the  gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia. It  crosses  the  whole  province,  and  is  nearly  150 
miles  long.  Rio  Culican  [Culiacan]  is  not  more  than  50 
miles  in  length,  and  enters  the  gulf  of  California  in  lat. 
25°  N. 

Titnber,  Plains,  and  Soil.  No  timber ;  soil  similar  to 
that  of  Senora. 

Animals.     Domestic  only. 

Population  and  Chief  Towns.  Its  population  may  be  esti- 
mated at  60,000,  not  more  than  three-twentieths  of  whom 
are  Spaniards;  the  remainder  Creoles,  Metifs,  and  Indians. 

Sinaloa  is  the  capital,  but  its  population,  extent,  etc.,  to 
me  is  unknown. 

Trade  and  Commerce.     Unacquainted  with. 

*"  Sinaloa  or  Cinaloa  is  practically  the  same  as  it  was,  but  would  be  now 
said  to  be  bounded  by  Sonora,  Chihuahua,  Durango,  and  Jalisco  ;  its  whole  S. 
\V.  length  is  sea-coast,  on  the  Gulf  of  California  and  Pacific  Ocean.  Area, 
36,180  sq.  m.;  pop.  245,7C»  ;  capital,  Culiacan,  on  the  river  of  that  name, 
in  lat.  24°  50'  N.,  long.  107°  20'  W.;  pop.  8,000.  The  principal  city  and 
port  is  Mazatlan,  in  lat.  23°  15'  36"  N.;  pop.  12,000. 

*'  Sinaloa  has  a  long  series  of  comparatively  short  rivers,  with  a  general 
S.  W.  trend  to  the  sea.  Rio  del  Fuerte  (River  of  the  Fort)  is  the  largest  and, 
excepting  Rio  Alamos,  the  northernmost.  The  Sinaloa  is  the  next  one  of 
any  size  ;  on  this  is  Sinaloa,  in  Pike's  time  the  capital,  but  not  now  a  place 
of  special  importance.  Further  S.  come  successively,  Rio  San  Lorenzio, 
Rio  San  Miguel,  Rio  Piaxtla,  Rio  Mazatlan,  and  Rio  El  Rosario  ;  the  latter  is 
charted  by  Pike,  who  empties  it  into  the  Gulf,  near  23°.  which  is  about  right. 


GEOGRAPHY,    CLIMATE,    AND    MINES  OF   COAHUILA.     775 

Agriculture.     The  same  as  Senora. 

Aborigines.     None  who  are  not  civilized. 

Government  and  Laws.     Unacquainted  with. 

Military  Force.  One  hundred  dragoons  for  expresses,  and 
a  guard  for  the  governor. 

Religion.  Catholic,  in  the  diocese  of  the  bishop  of 
Durango. 

History.     To  me  unknown. 

5.  COGQUILLA.  Geography.  The  province  of  Cogquilla 
lies  between  lat.  31°  and  33°  30'  N.,  and  long.  101°  and  105° 
W.  Its  greatest  length  north  and  south  may  be  500  miles, 
and  its  greatest  width  east  and  west  200  miles.  It  is 
bounded  north  by  New  Mexico  and  Texas,  east  by  the  lat- 
ter, San  Ander,  and  New  Leon,  south  by  the  administration 
of  Zacataca,  and  west  by  Biscay." 

Air  and  Climate.  Pure  and  healthy,  except  about  the 
middle  of  May,  when  the  heat  is  intense,  and  sometimes  a 
scorching  wind  is  felt,  like  the  flame  issuing  from  an  oven  or 
furnace,  which  frequently  skins  the  face  and  affects  the  eyes. 
This  phenomenon  is  felt  more  sensibly  about  the  setting  of 
the  sun  than  at  any  other  period  of  the  24  hours. 

Mities,  Minerals,  and  Fossils.  I  know  of  no  mines  in  this 
province,  except  at  Montelovez  and  San  Rosa,  with  the 
value  of  which  I  am  unacquainted  ;  but  those  of  San  Rosa 
are  reputed  to  be  as  rich  as  any  silver  mines  in  the  kingdom. 
Montelovez  has  none  very  considerable. 

Rivers.  This  province  has  no  river  of  magnitude  or  con- 
sequence but  the  Rio  Grande,  which  crosses  its  northern 
part  in  a  S.  E.  direction." 

«  Coahuila,  or  Coahuila  de  Zaragoza,  or  Cohahuilla,  or  Quagila,  etc. ,  has 
much  the  same  limits  now,  excepting  of  course  the  eis-Grandean  portion  which 
is  now  a  part  of  Texas.  On  the  eastern  side  there  is  a  curious  peninsula  or  pan- 
handle of  the  State,  which  is  wedged  between  two  similar  projections  of  Nuevo 
Leon  and  Tamaulipas  respectively.  On  the  S.  are  San  Luis  Potosi  as  well  as 
Zacatecas,  and  on  the  W.  the  former  Biscay  gives  Chihuahua  and  Durango. 
Area,  60,500  sq.  m.;  pop.  178,000;  capital,  Saltillo,  about  lat.  25°  25' N., 
long.  loi"  4'  W.,  founded  1586  ;  pop.  23,000. 

■"The  Rio  Grande  does  not  now  cross  Coahuila,  but   forms  its  whole  U.  S. 


J-J^  LAKES,    WOODS,   AND   PLAINS   OF   COAHUILA. 

Lakes.  There  is  a  small  lake  called  the  Aqua  [Agua] 
Verde,  situated  on  its  western  extremities,  which  gives 
rise  to  a  small  stream  that  discharges  into  the  Rio  del 
Norte. 

Timber,  Plains,  and  Soil.  From  the  river  Nassus  [Nasas] 
to  the  east  there  is  the  palmetto,  which  grows  to  the  height 
of  20  and  25  feet,  with  a  trunk  of  2  feet  in  diameter.  Its 
leaves  are  in  the  shape  of  a  spear,  and  cover  all  the  trunk 
when  young,  but  fall  off  as  the  tree  grows  old.  Its  wood  is 
of  a  spongy  nature,  and  from  every  information  I  could  pro- 
cure, is  of  the  same  species  as  that  of  the  same  name  in  the 
Southern  States."  One  hundred  miles  to  the  east  of  the 
Rio  Grande  oak  timber  commences,  being  the  first  we  saw 
in  the  provinces  ;  but  it  is  very  small  and  scrubby,  and  pre- 
sents from  this  to  the  line  of  Texas  (the  river  Mariana 
[Medina,  near  San  Antonio,  Tex.]),  a  very  perceptible 
gradation  of  the  increase  of  timber,  both  in  quantity,  luxuri- 

border  on  the  N.  W.,  N.,  and  N.  E.  But  there  are  a  good  many  rivers  in  Coa- 
huila,  some  of  them  notable,  i.  Prominent  among  these  is  the  whole  course  of 
the  Sabinas,  and  of  its  main  fork  on  which  is  Monclova,  together  with  their 
respective  tributaries,  down  to  where  the  two  are  joined,  to  continue  under  the 
name  of  Rio  Salado  to  the  Rio  Grande  ;  the  Salado  cuts  across  the  tip  end  of 
New  Leon,  but  again  becomes  Coahuilan  to  the  extent  of  separating  Coahuila 
from  Nuevo  Leon  before  entering  Tamaulipas.  The  "Aqua  Verde"  lake 
which  Pike  names,  and  which  is  rather  centr.ally  than  westerly  located,  is  the 
Laguna  de  Agua  Verde  ;  which,  with  a  neighboring  one  called  Santa  Maria, 
belongs  to  the  water-system  of  the  Sabinas.  2.  The  two  rivers  which  flow  into 
Lag.  del  Muerto  and  Lag.  de  Parras  enter  Coahuila.  3.  The  headwaters  of  the 
Rio  San  Juan,  on  one  of  which  Saltillo,  the  capital,  is  situated,  are  in  Coahuila. 
4.  A  series  of  Coahuilan  streams  falls  into  the  Rio  Grande  at  successive  points 
from  below  Presidio  Salto  to  above  Presidio  San  Vincento. 

"  The  tree  is  not  the  palmetto  of  the  Southern  States,  Saba! palmetto,  but  one 
of  the  large  woody  yuccas,  of  the  same  genus  as  the  small  shrubby  ones  com- 
monly called  Spanish  bayonets,  from  the  character  of  the  leaves  Pike  notes. 
Yucca  ireculeaiia  (or  canaliculata)  is  a  Mexican  species  sometimes  25  feet  high 
and  2  feet  thick,  thus  answering  to  the  requirements  of  the  text.  The  one  best 
known  in  our  country  is  the  tree  yucca,  Yucca  arborescens,  very  similar  to  the  last 
named.  This  grows  abundantly  in  some  parts  of  Southern  California  in  the 
valley  of  the  Mohave  r. ,  sometimes  so  thickly  as  to  make  a  sort  of  forest.  Mul- 
titudes may  be  seen  along  the  line  of  the  Atl.  and  Pac.  R.  R.  in  the  desert, 
where  there  is  for  many  miles  no  sign  of  anything  else  that  looks  like  a  tree. 


CHIEF  TOWNS  OF  COAHUILA.  -J-JJ 

ance,  and  variety.  The  country  here  becomes  very  similar 
to  the  Indiana  territory. 

Animals.  Deer,  wild  horses,  a  few  buffalo  and  wild  hogs 
[peccaries]. 

Population  and  Chief  Towns.  Montelovez  [Monclova"] 
is  the  capital  of  Cogquilla.  It  is  situated  on  a  small  stream 
of  water  in  lat.  26°  30'  N.  and  long.  103°  30'  W.  It  is  about 
one  mile  in  length,  on  a  course  N.  70°  E.  by  the  main  street. 
It  has  two  public  squares,  seven  churches,  a  powder  maga- 
zine, mills,  king's  hospital,  and  quartel  del  tropa  [soldiers' 
barracks].  This  is  the  principal  military  depot  for  the  prov- 
inces of  Cogquilla  and  Texas.  Its  population  may  be  esti- 
mated at  3,500  souls.  This  city  being  the  stated  residence 
of  his  Excellency  Governor  Cordero,  he  has  ornamented  it 
with  public  walks,  columns,  and  fountains,  and  made  it  one 
of  the  handsomest  cities  in  the  internal  provinces. 

Santa  Rosa,  about  38  miles  N.  W.  of  Montelovez,  is  rep- 
resented to  be  the  most  healthy  situation  in  the  province, 
and  to  have  the  best  water  and  fruit.  It  is  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  river  Millada  [read  here  Sabinas].  Its  popula- 
tion is  represented  at  4,000  souls.  Paras  [Parras]  is  situated 
on  a  small  stream  ;  with  its  suburbs  it  is  supposed  to  contain 
7,000  souls,  and  San  Lorenzo,  three  miles  to  the  north,  500 
souls.  This  place  may  be  termed  the  vineyard  of  Cogquilla, 
the  whole  population  pursuing  no  other  occupation  than  the 
cultivation  of  the  grape.  Its  name  denotes  the  Branches 
of  the  Vine.  At  the  Hacienda  of  San  Lorenzo,  where  we 
halted,  there  were  15  larger  stills,  larger  cellars,  and  a  greater 
number  of  casks  than  I  ever  saw  in  any  brewery  of  the 
United  States.  Its  gardens  were  delightfully  interspersed 
with  figs,  vines,  apricots,  and  a  variety  of  fruits  which  are 
produced  in  the  torrid  zone  ;  fine  summer-houses,  where 
were  wine,  refreshments,  and  couches  to  repose  on,  and 
where  the  singing  of  the  birds  was  delightful.  There  were, 
likewise,  mills  and  a  fine  water-fall. 

*^  For  various  places  mentioned  in  this  and  the  following  paragraphs,  see  the 
itinerary  of  May  i6th  to  June  ist,  pp.  680-689,  ^^^  notes  along  there. 


7/8  STATISTICS  OF  COAHUILA. 

The  Presidio  [Salto]  of  Rio  Grande  is  situated  on  that 
river,  and  is  remarkable  for  nothing  but  three  or  four  hand- 
some missions  with  which  it  is  surrounded,  a  powder  maga- 
zine, quarters  for  the  troops,  and  a  few  iron  field-pieces  on 
miserable  truck  carriages.     Population  2,500  souls. 

The  population  of  this  province  may  be  estimated  at 
70,000  souls,  not  more  than  10,000  of  whom  are  Spaniards. 

Trade,  Coiiunerce,  and  MaJiufactiircs.  This  province 
receives  all  its  merchandise  from  Mexico  by  land,  and  in 
return  gives  horses,  mules,  wines,  gold,  and  silver.  There 
is  an  annual  fair  held  at  Saltelo  [Saltillo],  in  New  Leon 
[Coahuila],  where  an  immense  quantity  of  merchandise  is 
disposed  of,  and  where  merchants  of  verj'  large  capitals 
reside. 

Agriculture.  They  cultivate  the  vine  principally,  with 
grain  and  corn  sufficient  for  their  own  consumption,  and  to 
supply  the  greatest  part  of  Texas. 

Aborigines.  The  Appaches  cover  the  northwest  fron- 
tier. The  Lee  Pawnees  [Lipans :  see  note  ^',  p.  746]  are 
a  nation  who  rove  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  some  distance 
into  the  province  of  Texas.  Their  former  residence  was  on 
the  Rio  Grande,  near  the  sea-shore.  They  are  at  present 
divided  into  three  bands,  of  300,  350,  and  100  men  each. 
They  are  at  war  with  the  Tetaus  and  Appaches,  and  at 
peace  with  the  Spaniards.  They  have  fair  hair,  and  are 
generally  handsome,  armed  with  bows,  arrows,  and  lances. 
They  pursue  the  wild  horses,  of  which  they  take  numbers, 
and  sell  them  to  the  Spaniards. 

Government  and  Laivs.  Military  and  ecclesiastical  power 
is  all  that  is  known  or  acknowledged  in  this  province  ;  but 
its  administration  was  mild  under  their  excellent  Governor 
Cordero.     The  governor's  civil  salary  is  $4,000  per  annum. 

Morals  and  Manners.  It  was  evident  to  the  least  discern- 
ing eye  that,  as  we  diverged  from  these  parts  which  pro- 
duced such  vast  quantities  of  the  precious  metals,  the 
inhabitants  became  more  industrious,  and  there  were 
fewer  beggars.     Thus  the  morals  of  the  people  of  Cogquilla 


TEXAS— LA   SALLE.  779 

were  less  corrupt  than  those  of  Biscay  or  New  Leon,  their 
neighbors. 

Military  Force.  There  are  400  dragoons  maintained  in 
this  province,  and  stationed  at  Montelovez,  San  Rosa,  Pres. 
Rio  del  Norte,  and  San  Fernandez. 

Religion.  Catholic,  but  mild.  It  is  in  the  diocese  of 
Durango. 

History.  Cogquilla  had  not  pushed  its  population  as  far 
as  the  Rio  Grande  in  the  year  1687,  as  at  that  time  La  Salle  "' 
established  himself  at  the  entrance  of  that  river,  it  being  a 
wilderness;  but  Montelovez  was  established  some  time 
before  this  era.  Of  its  particular  history  I  have  no 
knowledge. 

6.  Texas.  Geography.  The  province  of  Texas  lies  be- 
tween lat.  27°  30'  and  35°  N.,  and  long.  98°  and  104"  W., 
bordered  north  by  Louisiana,  east  by  the  territory  of 
Orleans,  west  by  Cogquilla  and  New  Mexico,  and  south  by 
New  San  Ander.  Its  greatest  length  from  north  to  south 
may  be  500  miles,  and  breadth  from  east  to  west  350. 

Air  and  Climate.  One  of  the  most  delightful  tempera- 
tures  in   the  world  ;    but,  being    a  country    covered    with 

■"  Robert  Cavelier,  Le  Sieur  de  la  Salle,  b.  Rouen,  Normandie,  France, 
Nov.  22d,  1643,  murdered  by  Duhaut  in  conspiracy  with  other  assassins,  in 
Texas,  on  a  branch  of  the  Trinity,  or  of  the  Brazos,  Mar.  igth  or  20th,  1687, 
was  never  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Grande.  La  Salle  sailed  from  France  with 
four  vessels  and  about  280  persons,  July  24th,  1684  ;  three  of  the  vessels  sighted 
Florida  Jan.  15th,  1685;  landed  at  St.  Louis,  later  St.  Bernard,  now  Mata- 
gorda, bay,  in  Feb.,  1685  ;  one  vessel  sailed  away  in  Mar.,  1685,  leaving  La 
Salle  with  about  180  adventurers  or  colonists.  He  founded  Fort  St.  Louis  at 
or  near  present  La  V'aca,  in  Apr.,  1685,  giving  a  color  of  French  claim  that  did 
not  entirely  fade  away  till  1803,  though  the  settlement  speedily  aborted.  The 
remainder  of  1685  and  the  year  1686  were  mainly  passed  in  fruitless  wanderings 
and  warrings  in  different  directions,  with  misery  and  disaster  at  every  turn.  La 
Salle's  people  dwindled  down  to  about  20  who  were  left  at  the  fort,  and  17  who 
started  with  their  leader,  Jan.  7th,  1687,  overland  to  Canada.  This  verloren 
hoop  included  :  La  Salle;  Father  Jean  Cavelier,  his  brother  ;  their  two  nephews, 
Moranget  and  Cavelier  ;  Sieur  de  Maria,  Friar  .\nastase  Douay,  who  afterward 
wrote  of  the  journey,  a  witness  of  La  Salle's  death  ;  Joutel,  a  trusty  soldier, 
whose  account  (pub.  1713)  is  to  be  preferred  to  Douay's  when  the  two  differ  ; 
Teissier,  a  pilot,  one  of  the  conspirators  ;    Liotot,  the  surgeon,  ditto;  Hiens, 


78o  CLIMATES,    MINES,  AND    RIVERS  OF   TEXAS. 

timber,  the  new  emigrants  are  generally  sickly,  which  may 
justly  be  attributed  to  putrescent  vegetation,  which  brings 
on  intermittent  and  bilious  attacks,  and,  in  some  instances, 
malignant  fevers.  The  justice  of  these  remarks  is  proved 
by  the  observations  of  all  the  first  settlers  of  our  western 
frontiers,  that  places  which  in  the  course  of  lo  or  15  years 
become  perfectly  healthy,  were  the  first  two  or  three  years 
quite  the  reverse,  and  generally  cost  them  the  loss  of  two 
or  three  members  of  their  families. 

Mines,  Minerals,  and  Fossils.  The  only  one  known  and 
worked  is  a  mine  of  lead. 

Rivers*'  The  river  St.  Antonio  takes  its  source  about 
one  league  to  the  northeast  of  the  capital  of  the  province, 
St.  Antonio,  and  is  navigable  for  canoes  to  its  source, 
affording  excellent  fish,  fine  mill  seats,  and  water  to  every 
part  of  the  town.  It  is  joined  from  the  west  by  the  river 
Mariana,  which  forms  part  of  the  line  between  Cogquilla 
and  Texas,  and  then  discharges  into  the  Rio  Guadelupe 
about  50  miles  from  the  sea.  At  the  town  of  St.  Antonio 
it  is  about  20  yards  wide,  and  in  some  places  12  feet  in 
depth.     The  river  Guadelupe  takes  its  source  about   150 

a  German  ex-buccanier,  ditto  ;  Duhaut,  the  actual  assassin  ;  Jean  Archeveque, 
his  servant  and  accomplice ;  Saget,  La  Salle's  servant  ;  Nika,  a  Shawanoe 
hunter  ;  another  Indian,  and  some  other  persons.  This  party  had  crossed  the 
Colorado  and  Brazos  Mar.  15th,  1687.  After  a  quarrel  which  arose  over  some 
buffalo  meat,  in  a  detached  party  who  were  6  m.  away  from  La  Salle,  Duhaut, 
Liotot,  niens,  and  others  conspired  to  kill  Moranget ;  Liotot  brained  him  ; 
Saget  and  Nika  were  also  then  and  there  killed.  La  Salle  left  Joutel  and  others 
in  their  own  camp  and  proceeded  to  the  scene  of  this  tragedy,  accompanied  only 
by  Father  Douay,  and  an  Indian,  Mar.  igth  or  20th.  On  his  approach, 
Duhaut  shot  him  in  the  head  from  ambush  ;  Liotot  and  others  mocked  and 
buffeted  his  corpse.  Some  time  in  May  Duhaut  was  murdered  by  Hiens  ;  at 
the  same  time  Liotot  was  murdered  by  one  Ruter.  Some  survivors  of  this 
bloody  expedition  reached  Poste  aux  Arkansas  in  July.  The  colony  left  at 
Fort  St.  Louis  had  been  utterly  extirpated  by  Indian  massacre  and  dispersion 
of  the  few  survivors,  before  Apr.  22d,  16S9,  when  the  spot,  void  of  all  but  the 
dead  there  buried,  was  visited  by  a  Spanish  party  under  Don  Alonzo  de  Leon. 
See  note  ",  p.  560. 

■"  For  the  several  rivers  about  to  be  treated  here,  see  the  itinerary,  June 
7th-29th,  and  notes  there. 


RIVERS  OF  TEXAS.  78 1 

miles  to  the  northwest  of  St.  Antonio  ;  where  we  crossed  it, 
it  was  a  beautiful  stream,  at  least  60  yards  in  width.  Its 
waters  are  transparent  and  navigable  for  canoes.  After 
receiving  the  waters  of  the  St.  Antonio  and  St.  Marco  it 
discharges  into  the  southwest  end  of  the  bay  of  St.  Ber- 
nardo [Matagorda].  At  the  crossing  of  this  river  there  is  a 
range  for  the  horses  of  St.  Antonio  and  a  guarde  de  caballo, 
with  an  elegant  site  for  a  town. 

The  river  St.  Marco  takes  its  source  about  lOO  miles 
north,  20  west  of  St.  Antonio,  and  at  the  crossing  of  the 
road  is  30  yards  in  width,  a  clear  and  navigable  stream  for 
canoes.  By  the  road  this  river  is  only  14  miles  from  the 
Guadelupe,  into  which  it  discharges. 

The  Red  [or  Colorado]  river  [of  Texas]  takes  its  source 
in  the  province  of  Cogquilla  in  lat.  33°  N.  and  long.  104°  30' 
W.,  but,  bending  to  the  east,  enters  the  province  of  Texas, 
and  after  a  winding  course  of  about  6cx)  miles  disembogues 
into  the  bay  of  St.  Bernard  [Matagorda],  in  lat.  29°  N. 
Where  the  road  traverses  it,  it  is  at  least  150  yards  wide, 
and  has  a  guard  of  dragoons  stationed  on  its  banks.  Its 
waters  are  of  a  reddish  cast,  whence  it  probably  derived 
its  name.  This  stream  is  navigable  for  boats  of  three  or 
four  tons  burden. 

The  river  Brasses  [Brazos]  takes  its  source  in  the  prov- 
ince of  Cogquilla  in  lat.  34°  N.  and  long.  105°  W.,  enters 
the  province  of  Texas,  and  discharges  into  the  gulf  of 
Mexico  in  lat.  28°  40',  after  a  course  of  750  miles.  It  is  the 
largest  river  in  the  province,  and,  where  the  road  crosses, 
is  300  yards  wide  and  navigable  for  large  keels.  From  the 
appearances  on  its  banks  it  must  rise  and  fall  lOO  feet.  Its 
waters  were  red  and  turbid  ;  its  banks  well  timbered,  with  a 
rich,  prolific  soil.  Here  was  kept  the  only  boat  I  recollect 
to  have  seen  in  the  provinces. 

The  river  Trinity  takes  its  source  in  lat.  34°  N.  and  long. 
99°  W.,  and  discharges  into  Galueston's  [Galveston]  bay 
in  lat.  29°  30'  N.  By  its  meanders  it  is  about  300  miles 
in  length.     Where   the  road  crosses  it  is  about  60  yards  in 


782  LAKES,    PLAINS,   AND   ANIMALS  OF   TEXAS. 

width,  with  high,  steep  banks  covered  with  timber,  and  a 
rich,  luxuriant  soil. 

The  Nachez  [Neches]  and  Angelina  are  small  rivers,  of 
about  20  yards  in  width,  which,  after  forming  a  junction, 
discharge  into  the  Trinity.  The  river  Toyac  is  a  small 
stream,  which  discharges  into  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  at  the 
same  bay  with  the  Sabine,  in  about  lat.  29°  50'  N.  and  long. 
97°  W.'" 

The  Sabine  river,  the  present  limits  between  the  Spanish 
dominions  and  the  territories  of  the  United  States  in  that 
quarter,  takes  its  source  in  about  lat.  33^  N.,  and  enters 
the  gulf  of  Mexico  in  29°  50'.  It  may  be  300  miles  in  length 
by  its  meanders,  and  at  the  road  about  50  yards  in  width. 
Here  the  Spaniards  keep  a  guard  and  a  ferry-boat. 

Lakes.  Some  small  ones  near  the  head  of  the  Guadelupe 
and  some  branches  of  Red  river. 

Timber,  Plains,  and  Soil.  This  province  is  well  timbered 
for  100  miles  from  the  coast,  but  has  some  small  prairies 
interspersed  through  its  timbered  land ;  take  it  generally, 
it  is  one  of  the  richest,  most  prolific,  and  best  watered 
countries  in  North  America. 

Animals.  Buffalo,  deer,  elk,  wild  hogs  [peccaries],  and 
wild  horses,  the  latter  of  which  are  in  such  numbers  as 
to  afford  supplies  for  all  the  savages  who  border  on  the 
province,  the  Spaniards,  and  vast  droves  for  the  other 
provinces.  They  are  also  sent  into  the  United  States, 
notwithstanding  the  trade  is  contraband.  They  go  in  such 
large  gangs  that  it  is  requisite  to  keep  an  advanced  guard 
of  horsemen  in  order  to  frighten  them  away  ;  for  should 
they  be  suffered  to  come  near  the  horses  and  mules  which 
you  drive  with  you,  by  their  snorting,  neighing,  etc.,  they 

*^  This  description  of  the  Nachez,  Angelina,  and  Toyac  (Atoyac)  rivers  agrees 
with  the  map,  and  with  the  misapprehension  under  which  Pike  labored.  As 
already  indicated,  note  '*,  p.  710,  the  three  are  branches  of  one,  which  falls  into 
the  Gulf  in  the  same  bay  with  the  Sabine  ;  but  Pike  cuts  off  the  Nachez  and 
Angelina  from  the  Toyac  and  turns  them  into  the  Trinity  as  branches  of  the 
latter,  thus  leaving  the  Toyac  alone  to  pursue  the  course  all  three  should  have 
taken  together. 


CAPTURE   OF   MUSTANGS   IN  TEXAS.  783 

would  alarm  them,  and  frequently  the  domestic  animals 
would  join  them  and  go  off,  notwithstanding  all  the  exer- 
tions of  the  dragoons  to  prevent  them.  A  gentleman 
told  me  he  saw  700  beasts  carried  off  [stampeded]  at  one 
time,  not  one  of  which  was  ever  recovered.  They  also  in 
the  night  frequently  carry  off  the  droves  of  travelers'  horses, 
and  even  come  within  a  few  miles  of  St.  Antonio,  and  take 
off  the  horses  in  that  vicinity. 

The  method  pursued  by  the  Spanish  in  taking  them  is  as 
follows :  They  take  a  few  fleet  horses  and  proceed  into 
the  country  where  the  wild  horses  are  numerous.  They 
then  build  a  large  strong  inclosure,  with  a  door  which 
enters  a  smaller  inclosure;  from  the  entrance  of  the  large 
pen  they  project  wings  out  into  the  prairie  a  great  dis- 
tance, and  then  set  up  bushes,  etc.,  to  induce  the  horses, 
when  pursued,  to  enter  into  these  wings.  After  these 
preparations  are  made  they  keep  a  lookout  for  a  small 
drove,  for,  if  they  unfortunately  should  start  too  large  a 
one,  they  either  burst  open  the  pen  or  fill  it  up  with  dead 
bodies,  and  the  others  run  over  them  and  escape  ;  in  which 
case  the  party  are  obliged  to  leave  the  place,  as  the  steneh 
arising  from  the  putrid  carcasses  would  be  insupportable ; 
and,  in  addition  to  this,  the  pen  would  not  receive  others. 
Should  they,  however,  succeed  in  driving  in  a  few,  say  two 
or  three  hundred,  they  select  the  handsomest  and  youngest, 
noose  them,  take  them  into  the  small  inclosure,  and  then 
turn  out  the  remainder ;  after  which,  by  starving,  prevent- 
ing them  taking  any  repose,  and  continually  keeping  them 
in  motion,  they  make  them  gentle  by  degrees,  and  finally 
break  them  to  submit  to  the  saddle  and  bridle.  For  this 
business  I  presume  there  is  no  nation  in  the  world  superior 
to  the  Spaniards  of  Texas. 

Population  and  Chief  Towns.  St.  Antonio,  the  capital  of 
the  province,  lies  in  lat.  29°  50'  N.  and  long.  101°  W.,  and 
is  situated  on  the  headwaters  of  the  river  of  that  name ;  it 
contains  perhaps  2,000  souls,  most  of  whom  reside  in 
miserable  mud-wall    houses,  covered   with  thatched    grass 


784        TOWNS,   TRADE,  AND   AGRICULTURE   OF  TEXAS. 

roofs.  The  town  is  laid  out  on  a  very  grand  plan.  To  the 
east  of  it,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  is  the  station  of 
the  troops. 

About  two,  three,  and  four  miles  from  St.  Antonio  are 
three  missions,  formerly  flourishing  and  prosperous.  Those 
buildings,  for  solidity,  accommodation,  and  even  majesty, 
were  surpassed  by  few  that  I  saw  in  New  Spain.  The  resi- 
dent priest  treated  us  with  the  greatest  hospitality,  and  was 
respected  and  beloved  by  all  who  knew  him.  He  made  a 
singular  observation  relative  to  the  aborigines  who  had 
formerly  formed  the  population  of  those  establishments 
under  charge  of  the  monks.  I  asked  him  what  had  become 
of  the  natives.  He  replied  that  it  appeared  to  him  that 
they  could  not  exist  under  the  shadow  of  the  whites,  as  the 
nations  who  formed  those  missions  had  been  nurtured, 
taken  all  the  care  of  that  it  was  possible,  and  put  on  the  same 
footing  as  the  Spaniards ;  yet,  notwithstanding,  they  had 
dwindled  away  until  the  other  two  missions  had  become 
entirely  depopulated,  and  the  one  where  he  resided  had  not 
then  more  than  sufficient  to  perform  his  household  labor; 
from  this  he  had  formed  an  idea  that  God  never  intended 
them  to  form  one  people,  but  that  they  should  always 
remain  distinct  and  separate. 

Nacogdoches  is  merely  a  station  for  troops,  and  contains 
nearly  500  souls.  It  is  situated  on  a  small  stream  of  the 
river  Toyac. 

The  population  of  Texas  may  be  estimated  at  7,000. 
These  are  principally  Spanish,  Creoles,  some  French,  some 
Americans,  and  a  few  civilized  Indians  and  half-breeds. 

Trade  and  Commerce.  This  province  trades  with  Mexico 
by  Mont  El  Rey  and  Montelovez  for  merchandise,  and  with 
New  Orleans  by  Nachitoches ;  but  the  latter  trade,  being 
contraband,  is  liable  to  great  danger  and  risks.  They  give 
in  return  specie,  horses,  and  mules. 

Agriculture.  The  American  emigrants  are  introducing 
some  little  spirit  of  agriculture  near  Nacogdoches  and  the 
Trinity ;    but   the    oppressions    and    suspicions    they    labor 


ABORIGINES,   LAWS,   AND   MORALS   OF  TEXAS.         785 

under  prevent  their  proceeding  with  that  spirit  which  is 
necessary  to  give  success  to  the  estabhshment  of  a  new 
country. 

Aborigines.  The  Tancards  [note  ",  p.  705]  are  a  nation 
of  Indians  who  rove  on  the  banks  of  Red  river,  and  are  600 
men  strong.  They  follow  the  buffalo  and  wild  horses,  and 
carry  on  a  trade  with  the  Spaniards.  They  are  armed  with 
the  bow,  arrow,  and  lance.  They  are  erratic  and  confined  to 
no  particular  district ;  are  a  tall,  handsome  people  ;  in  con- 
versation they  have  a  peculiar  duckling,  express  more  by 
signs  than  any  savages  I  ever  visited,  and  in  fact  language 
appears  to  have  made  less  progress.  They  complained 
much  of  their  situation  and  the  treatment  of  the  Spaniards ; 
are  extremely  poor,  and,  except  the  Appaches,  were  the 
most  independent  Indians  we  encountered  in  the  Spanish 
territories.     They  possess  large  droves  of  horses. 

There  are  a  number  of  other  nations  now  nearly  extinct, 
some  of  which  are  mentioned  by  Dr.  Sibley  in  a  report  he 
made  to  the  government  of  the  United  States  on  these 
subjects.  A  few,  and  very  few  indeed,  of  those  nations 
have  been  converted  by  the  missions,  and  these  are  not  in 
that  state  of  vassalage  in  which  the  Indians  further  to  the 
south  are  held.     [Notes  ",  ",  ",  pp.  709,  713,  714.] 

Government  and  Laws.  Perfectly  military,  except  as  to 
the  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction. 

Morals  and  Manners.  They  being  on  the  frontier,  where 
buffalo  and  wild  horses  abound,  and  not  engaged  in  any 
war  with  savages  who  are  powerful,  have  adopted  a  mode 
of  living  by  following  those  animals,  which  has  been  pro- 
ductive of  a  more  wandering  disposition  round  the  capital 
(St.  Antonio)  than  in  any  other  of  the  provinces.  Cordcro, 
restricting  by  edicts  the  buffalo  hunts  to  certain  seasons, 
and  obliging  every  man  of  family  to  cultivate  so  many 
acres  of  land,  has  in  some  degree  checked  the  spirit  of 
hunting  or  wandering  life  which  had  been  hitherto  so  very 
prevalent,  and  has  endeavored  to  introduce,  by  his  example 
and   precepts,  a   general  urbanity  and   suavity  of  manners 


786  MILITARY   FORCE   OF   TEXAS — NEW   SPAIN. 

which  rendered  St.  Antonio  one  of  the  most  agreeable 
places  that  we  met  with  in  the  provinces. 

Military  Force.  There  were  in  Texas  at  the  time  I  came 
through  988  [888?]  men,  from  the  actual  returns  of  the 
troops  which  I  have  seen,  500  of  whom  were  from  St. 
Ander  and  New  Leon,  under  command  of  governor  Her- 
rara.  The  disposition  of  those  troops  is  as  follows  :  388 
at  St.  Antonio,  400  [300?]  at  the  cantonment  of  [Blank,  300 
marked  on  map  low  down]  on  the  Trinity,  100  at  the  [cross- 
ing of  the]  Trinity,  and  100  at  Nacogdoches.  The  militia, 
a  rabble  made  somewhat  respectable  by  a  few  American 
riflemen  who  are  incorporated  amongst  them,  are  about  300 
men,  including  bow  and  arrow  men. 

Religion.     Catholic,  but  much  relaxed. 

History.  To  me  unknown,  except  what  can  be  extracted 
from  various  authors  on  that  subject. 

GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  NEW  SPAIN. 

To  become  acquainted  with  all  the  civil  and  political 
institutes  of  a  country  requires  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the 
language,  a  free  ingress  to  the  archives,  and  a  residence  of 
some  years  ;  even  then  we  can  scarcely  distinguish  between 
the  statute  laws  and  common  law,  derived  from  custom, 
morals,  and  habits.  Under  those  circumstances,  it  cannot 
be  expected  that  I  shall  be  able  to  say  much  on  the  subject, 
as  I  possessed  none  of  the  above  advantages.  I  will,  how- 
ever, offer  a  few  observations.  To  a  stranger  it  is  impos- 
sible to  define  the  limits  of  the  military  and  ecclesiastical 
jurisdictions;  in  every  affair  which  relates  to  the  citizens, 
and  in  fact  with  the  soldiery,  the  force  of  superstition  is 
such  that  I  am  doubtful  whether  they  would  generally 
obey  one  of  their  officers  in  a  direct  violation  of  the  injunc- 
tion of  their  religious  professions.  The  audiences  of  Mexico 
and  Guadalaxara  were  formed,  no  doubt,  as  a  check  on  the 
immense  power  of  the  viceroy.  The  number  of  members 
composing  each   is   to  me  unknown,  but  they  are  formed  of 


MORALS  AND   MANNERS  IN  NEW  SPAIN.  787 

the  viceroy  as  president,  with  two  votes,  generals,  and 
bishops.  To  their  jurisdictions  the  appeals  from  the  judg- 
ment of  the  intendants  and  all  subordinate  officers  may  be 
made  in  civil  cases ;  but  the  military  and  ecclesiastical 
decisions  are  distinct.  Notwithstanding  all  this  semblance 
of  justice,  should  an  individual  dare  to  make  the  appeal 
and  not  succeed  in  establishing  the  justice  of  his  claim  to 
redress,  he  is  certainly  ruined.  Where  justice  is  so  little 
attended  to,  when  opposed  to  power  and  wealth,  as  in  the 
Spanish  provinces,  the  appeal  is  a  desperate  remedy.  This 
tribunal  or  legislative  body  enacts  all  the  laws  for  the 
general  regulations  of  their  divisions  of  the  kingdom. 

The  captain-generalcy  of  the  internal  provinces  appeared 
to  me  to  be  much  more  despotic,  for  the  laws  or  regulations 
were  issued  in  the  form  of  an  order  merely,  without  any 
kind  of  a  preamble  whatsoever,  except  sometimes  he  would 
say,  "  By  order  of  the  king  "  ;  and  such  was  the  style  of 
governors  of  provinces. 

Morals,  Manners,  etc.  For  hospitality,  generosity,  and 
sobriety  the  people  of  New  Spain  exceed  any  nation  per- 
haps on  the  globe  ;  but  in  national  energy,  patriotism,  en- 
terprise of  character,  or  independence  of  soul,  they  are 
perhaps  the  most  deficient.  Yet  there  are  men  who  have 
displayed  bravery  to  a  surprising  degree,  and  the  Europeans 
who  are  there  cherish  with  delight  the  idea  of  their  gallant 
ancestry. 

Their  women  have  black  eyes  and  hair,  fine  teeth,  and  are 
generally  brunettes.  I  met  but  one  exception  to  this  rule, 
at  Chihuahua— a  fair  lady,  who,  by  way  of  distinction,  was 
called  "  the  girl  with  light  hair."  They  are  all  inclining  a 
little  to  enbonpoint  ;  but  none  or  few  are  elegant  figures. 
Their  dress  generally  is  short  jackets  and  petticoats  and 
high-heeled  shoes,  without  any  head-dress.  Over  the  whole 
dress  they  have  a  silk  wrapper,"  which  they  always  wear 

"  The  reboso,  with  which  the  women  muffle  their  faces,  in  a  characteristic 
manner  perhaps  traceable  back  to  the  Moors,  or  to  the  wives  of  the  prophet 
himself,  is  as  indispensable  an  article  of  attire  as  a  fan.     The  Spaniards  have  a 


788  SPANISH   COSTUMES. 

and,  when  in  the  presence  of  men,  affect  to  bring  over  their 
faces,  but  from  under  which  you  frequently  see  peeping  a 
large  sparkHng  black  eye.     As  we  approached  the  Atlantic 
and  our  frontiers,  we  saw  several  ladies  who  wore  the  gowns 
of  our  countrywomen,  which  they  conceived  to  be  much 
more  elegant  than  their  ancient  costume.     The  lower  class 
of  the  men  are  generally  dressed  in  broad-brimmed  hats, 
short  coats,  large  waistcoats,  and  small  clothes  always  open 
at  the  knees  (owing,  as  I  suppose,  to  the  greater  freedom  it 
gives  to  the  limbs  on  horseback),  a  kind  of  leather  boot  or 
wrapper  bound  round  the  leg  somewhat  in  the  manner  of 
our  frontier-men's  leggings,  and  gartered  on.     The  boot  is 
of  a  soft,  pliable  leather,  but  not  colored.     In  the  eastern 
provinces  the  dragoons  wear,  over  this  wrapper  or  boot,  a 
sort  of  jack-boot  made  of  sole-leather,  to  which  are  fastened, 
by  a  rivet,  the  spurs,  the  gaffs  of  which  are  sometimes  near 
an  inch  in  length ;  but  the  spurs  of  the  gentlemen  and  offi- 
cers,  although  clumsy  to  our  ideas,  are   frequently  orna- 
mented with  raised  silver-work  on  the  shoulders,  and  the 
straps  embroidered  with  silver  and  gold  thread.     They  are 
always  ready  to  mount  their  horses,  on  which  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  internal  provinces  spend  nearly  half  the  day. 
This  description  will  apply  generally  to  the  dress  of  all  the 
men  of  the  provinces  for  the  lower  class ;  but  in  their  cities, 
among  the  more  fashionable,  they  dress  after  the  European 
or  United  States  modes,  with  not  more  variation  than  we 
see  in  our  cities  from  one  six  months  to  another. 

phrase  de  reboso,  equivalent  to  the  Italian  in  petto,  Latin  sub  rosa,  to  indicate 
secrecy,  intrigue,  and  the  like.  The  reboso  varies  much  in  size,  shape,  color, 
texture,  price,  and  other  qualities ;  and,  according  to  one  distinguished  author, 
it  has  various  uses  :  "  The  church  was  crowded  with  women  of  all  conditions, 
and  the  horrid  reboso.  which  the  poor  use  for  shawl,  bonnet,  handkerchief,  and 
spit-box,  sent  out  an  odor  which  the  incense  from  the  altar  failed  to  stifle," 
says  Emory,  Ex.  Doc.  41,  30th  Cong.,  1st  Sess.,  1848,  p.  41.  Some  say  that 
the  large  mobile  lips  of  Mexican  senoras  acquire  their  osculatory  capacity  by  the 
habitual  use  of  those  features  in  gesticulation  as  well  as  articuktion  ;  their  hands 
and  arms  being  kept  bundled  up  with  their  heads  in  that  comprehensive  article 
of  attire,  they  are  obliged  to  use  their  lips  for  pointers. 


SPANISH    AMUSEMENTS.  789 

Both  men  and  women  liave  remarkably  fine  hair,  and 
pride  themselves  in  the  display  of  it.  Their  amusements 
are  music,  singing,  dancing,  and  gambling.  The  latter  is 
strictly  prohibited,  but  the  prohibition  is  not  much  attended 

to.     The  dance  of  is  danced  by  one  man  and  two 

women,  who  beat  time  to  the  music,  which  is  soft  and 
voluptuous,  but  sometimes  changing  to  a  lively,  gay  air. 
The  dancers  exhibit  the  motions  of  the  soul  by  gestures  of 
the  body,  snapping  the  fingers,  and  sometimes  meeting  in 
a  stretched  embrace.  The  fandango  is  danced  to  various 
figures  and  numbers.  The  minuet  is  still  danced  by  the 
superior  class  only.  The  music  made  use  of  is  the  guitar, 
violin,  and  singers,  who,  in  the  first-described  dance,  ac- 
company the  music  with  their  hands  and  voices,  having 
always  some  words  adapted  to  the  music. 

Their  games  are  cards,  billiards,  horse-racing,  and  cock- 
fighting,  the  first  and  last  of  which  are  carried  to  the  most 
extravagant  lengths,  losing  and  winning  immense  sums. 
The  present  commandant-general  is  very  severe  with  his 
officers  in  these  respects,  frequently  sending  them  to  some 
frontier  post  in  confinement  for  months,  for  no  other  fault 
than  having  lost  large  sums  at  play.  At  every  town  of  con- 
sequence is  a  public  walk,  where  the  ladies  and  gentlemen 
meet  and  sing  songs,  which  are  always  on  the  subject  of 
love  or  the  social  board.  The  females  have  fine  voices,  and 
sing  in  French,  Italian,  and  Spanish,  the  whole  company 
joining  in  the  chorus. 

In  their  houses  the  ladies  play  the  guitar,  and  generally 
accompany  it  with  their  voices.  They  either  sit  down  on 
the  carpet  cross-legged,  or  loll  on  a  sofa.  To  sit  upright  in 
a  chair  appeared  to  put  them  to  great  inconvenience ;  al- 
though the  better  class  would  sometimes  do  it  on  our  first 
introduction,  they  soon  took  the  liberty  of  following  their 
old  habits.  In  their  eating  and  drinking  they  are  remark- 
ably temperate.  Early  in  the  morning  you  receive  a  dish 
of  chocolate  and  a  cake ;  at  twelve  you  dine  on  several 
dishes  of  meat,   fowls,  and  fish,  after  which  you  have  a 


790  THE    SPANISH    WOMAN   QUESTION. 

variety  of  confections,  and  indeed  an  elegant  dessert ;  then 
drink  a  few  glasses  of  wine,  sing  a  few  songs,  and  retire  to 
take  the  siesta,  or  afternoon's  nap,  which  is  taken  by  rich 
and  poor.  About  two  o'clock  the  windows  and  doors  are 
all  closed,  the  streets  deserted,  and  the  stillness  of  midnight 
reigns  throughout.  About  four  o'clock  they  rise,  wash  and 
dress,  and  prepare  for  the  dissipation  of  the  night.  About 
eleven  o'clock  some  refreshments  are  offered,  but  few  take 
any,  except  a  little  wine  and  water  and  candied  sugar. 

The  government  has  multiplied  the  difificulties  of  Euro- 
peans intermarrjang  with  the  Creoles  or  Metifs  to  such  a 
degree  that  it  is  difficult  for  such  a  marriage  to  take  place. 
An  officer  wishing  to  marry  a  lady  not  from  Europe  is 
obliged  to  acquire  certificates  of  the  purity  of  her  descent 
200  years  back,  and  transmit  it  to  the  court,  when  the 
license  will  be  returned;  but  should  she  be  the  daughter  of 
a  man  of  the  rank  of  captain  or  upward  this  nicety  vanishes, 
as  rank  purifies  the  blood  of  the  descendants. 

The  general  subjects  of  conversations  among  the  men  are 
women,  money,  and  horses,  which  appear  to  be  the  only 
objects,  in  their  estimation,  worthy  of  consideration.  Unit- 
ing the  female  sex  with  their  money  and  their  beasts,  and 
having  treated  them  too  much  after  the  manner  of  the 
latter,  they  have  eradicated  from  their  breasts  every  senti- 
ment of  virtue  or  ambition,  either  to  pursue  the  acquire- 
ments which  would  make  them  amiable  companions,  in- 
structive mothers,  or  respectable  members  of  society  ;  their 
whole  souls,  with  a  few  exceptions,  being,  like  those  of 
Turkish  ladies,  taken  up  in  music,  dress,  and  the  little 
blandishments  of  voluptuous  dissipation.  Finding  that  the 
men  only  regard  them  as  objects  of  gratification  to  the  sen- 
sual passions,  they  have  lost  every  idea  of  that  feast  of 
reason  and  flow  of  soul  which  arise  from  the  intercourse  of 
two  refined  and  virtuous  minds. 

The  beggars  of  the  City  of  Mexico  are  estimated  at 
60,000  souls;  what  must  be  the  number  through  the  whole 
kingdom,  and  to  what  reason  can  it  be  owing  that,  in  a 


SPANISH   BEGGARY,   TRADE,    ETC.  791 

country  superior  to  any  in  the  world  for  riches  in  gold  and 
silver,  producing  all  the  necessaries  of  life  and  most  of  its 
luxuries,  there  should  be  such  a  vast  proportion  of  the  in- 
habitants in  want  of  bread  or  clothing?  It  can  only  be 
accounted  for  by  the  tyranny  of  the  government  and  the 
luxuries  of  the  rich.  The  government  strives,  by  all  the 
restrictions  possible  to  be  invented  without  absolutely 
driving  the  people  to  desperation,  to  keep  Spanish  America 
dependent  on  Europe. 

Trade,  Connnercc,  Manufactures,  and  Revenue.  The  trade 
and  commerce  of  New  Spain  are  carried  on  with  Europe  and 
the  United  States  by  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz  solely,  and  with 
the  East  Indies  and  South  America  generally  by  Acapulco  ; 
and,  even  at  these  ports,  under  such  restriction  as  to  pro- 
ductions, manufactures,  and  time,  as  to  render  it  of  little 
consequence  to  the  general  prosperity  of  the  country.  Were 
all  the  numerous  bays  and  harbors  of  the  gulfs  of  Mexico 
and  California  opened  to  the  trade  of  the  world,  and  a  gen- 
eral license  given  to  the  cultivation  of  all  the  productions 
of  which  the  country  is  capable,  with  freedom  of  exportation 
and  importation,  with  proper  duties  on  foreign  goods,  the 
country  would  immediately  become  rich  and  powerful,  and 
a  proper  stimulus  would  be  held  out  to  the  poor  to  labor, 
when  certain  of  finding  a  quick  and  ready  sale  for  the  pro- 
ductions of  their  plantations  or  manufactories.  The  coun- 
try abounds  in  iron  ore,  yet  all  the  iron  and  steel,  and 
articles  of  manufactures,  are  obliged  to  be  brought  from 
Europe,  the  manufacturing  or  working  of  iron  being  strictly 
prohibited.  This  occasions  the  necessary  articles  of  hus- 
bandry, arms,  and  tools  to  be  enormously  high,  and  is  a 
great  check  to  agriculture,  improvements  in  manufactures, 
and  military  skill.  The  works  of  the  Mexicans,  in  gold, 
silver,  and  painting,  show  them  naturally  to  have  a  genius 
which,  with  cultivation  and  improvement,  might  rival  the 
greatest  masters  of  either  ancient  or  modern  times.  Their 
dispositions  and  habits  are  peculiarly  calculated  for  seden- 
tary employments,  and  I  have  no  doubt,  if  proper  estabhsh- 


792  SPANISH    REVENUES. 

merits  were  made,  they  would  soon  rival,  if  not  surpass,  the 
most  extensive  woolen,  cotton,  or  silk  manufactures  of 
Europe;  their  climate  being  proper  to  raise  the  finest  cotton 
in  the  world,  and  their  sheep  possessing  all  the  fineness  of 
wool  for  which  they  are  so  celebrated  in  Spain.  Under 
these  circumstances,  together  with  the  immense  quantities 
of  the  raw  materials  which  they  have  on  hand,  wool  sells 
for  a  mere  trifle ;  and,  in  fact,  they  scarcely  take  half  from 
the  fleece  of  the  sheep,  for  the  coarse  manufactures  of  the 
country  and  to  make  beds. 

I  cannot  presume  to  state  the  revenues  of  the  country 
from  official  documents,  but  the  following  statements  I  have 
had  from  so  respectable  a  source,  and  they  are  so  confirmed 
by  my  own  observations,  that  I  think  much  reliance  may  be 
placed  on  their  correctness.  The  mint  coins,  per  annum,  at 
least,  $50,000,000  in  silver  and  $14,000,000  in  gold,  the  one- 
fifth  of  which  (the  duty)  is  equal  to  $12,800,000."  The 
duties  on  foreign  goods  and  the  amount  paid  by  the  pur- 
chasers of  monopolies  may  be  estimated  at  $4,000,000; 
which,  with  the  duty  on  gold  and  silver,  makes  the  annual 
revenue  $16,800,000.  The  civil  list  of  the  kingdom  is 
$580,000,  the  military  $7,189,200;  these  together  amount 
to  $7,760,200,  which,  deducted  from  the  gross  revenue 
of  $16,700,000,  leaves  a  clear  revenue  for  the  king  from 
his  Mexican  dominions  of  $9,030,800.  The  money  paid 
for  the  support  of  the  clergy  is  not  included  in  this 
estimate,  as  they  receive  their  revenue  through  its  own 
proper  channel.     The  best  paid  officers  under  the  govern- 

'"  Humboldt,  in  his  Personal  Narrative,  etc.,  p.  xxii  of  the  Philada.  ed.  of  1815, 
takes  express  exception  to  these  statistics,  in  the  following  terms;  "The 
numerous  statistical  data,  which  Mr.  Pike  has  collected  in  a  country  of  the  lan- 
guage of  which  he  was  ignorant,  are  for  the  greater  part  very  inaccurate. 
According  to  this  author  the  mint  of  Mexico  coins  every  year  50  millions  of 
piastres  in  silver,  and  14  millions  in  gold  ;  while  it  is  proved  by  the  tables 
annually  printed  by  order  of  the  Court,  and  published  in  the  Political  Essay 
[of  Humboldt  and  Bonpland],  that,  the  year  in  which  the  produce  of  the  mines 
was  the  most  abundant,  the  coinage  amounted  only  to  25,806,074  piastres  in 
silver,  and  to  1,359,814  piastres  in  gold." 


SPANISH   MILITARY  FORCE. 


793 


ment  cost  the  king  nothing  in  a  direct  line,  yet  the  oppres- 
sive manner  in  which  they  pay  tliemselves  and  impoverish 
the  people  would  render  it  better  policy  to  abolish  their 
impositions  and  pay  them  out  of  the  public  treasury  by 
a  direct  salary. 

Return  of  Military  Force  iti  Neiu  Spain. 


Disciplined 

and     Regular 

European 

Troops. 

Regular 

Troops  of  the 

Country. 

Militia  with 

Regular 

Field  Officers 

and  under 

Pay. 

Probable 
Armed 
Citizens. 

Provinces  and  Places. 

n 
U 

< 

c 

> 
rt 

< 

c 
a 

> 

u 

< 

'£ 

c 

S 

u 

E 

200 
800 

2000 
2000 

2000 

3000 
600 
3400 

1000 

1000 

2000 

15000 
1000 
5000 
5000 
3000 
1000 
500 

lOOO 

1000 

100 
1 100 
900 

4000 
6000 

200 

6000 

400 
488 

Total 

lOOO 

1000 

4000 

508S 

.... 

1200 

7000 

1000 

3000 

30500 

•^  u 


U 


<•         ^ 


Regular  troops,  European.  1000  1000  4000 

Regular  troops,  Mexican. .  5088  ....  1200 

Trained  militia 7000  1000  3000 

Total 13088  2000  8200 


Cavalry 13088 

Artillery  . . .       2000 
Infantry....      8200 

Total 23288  disciplined   and  effec- 

tive  force. 

30500  undisciplined  militia, 
loqooo  bow,  arrow,  and  lance 

men. 

162788  total  force. 


The  European  troops  are  some  of  the  choicest  regiments 
from  Spain  ;  consequently,  we  may  put  them  on  the  sup- 
position that  they  are  well  disciplined,  and  ofifiicered  by  men 
of  honor  and  science. 

The  regular  troops  of  the  kingdom  who  are  in  the  vice- 
royalty,  acting  from  the  stimulant  of  ambition  and  envy,  are 
supposed  to  be  equal  to  their  brethren  from  Europe.  The 
militia,  with  the  regular  officers,  are  likewise  good  troops, 
but   are  not  held  in  so  high  estimation  as  the  other  corps. 


794  APPEARANCE   OF   SPANISH   TROOPS. 

Those  three  corps,  forming  a  body  of  23,288  men,  may  be 
called  the  regular  force  of  the  kingdom,  as  the  militia  of 
139,500  would,  in  my  estimation,  be  of  no  more  consequence 
against  the  regular  troops  of  any  civilized  power  than  the 
ancient  aborigines  of  the  country  were  against  the  army 
of  Cortes. 

The  particular  observations  which  follow  must  be  consid- 
ered as  applying  to  the  troops  of  the  internal  provinces, 
unless  it  is  stated  to  the  contrary. 

The  appearance  of  the  Spanish  troops  is  certainly,  at  a  dis- 
tance, a  la  militaire  ;  their  lances  are  fixed  to  the  side  of  the 
saddle  under  the  left  thigh  and  slant  about  five  feet  above 
the  horse.  On  the  right  the  carabine  is  slung  in  a  case  to 
the  front  of  the  saddle,  or  pommel,  crosswise,  the  breech  to 
the  right  hand ;  and  on  each  side  of  the  saddle,  behind  the 
rider,  is  a  pistol ;  below  the  breech  of  the  carabine  is  slung 
the  shield,  which  is  made  of  sole  leather  three  doubled, 
sewed  together  with  thongs,  with  a  band  on  the  inside  to 
slip  the  left  arm  through  ;  those  of  the  privates  are  round, 
and  are  about  two  feet  in  diameter.  The  officers  and  non- 
commissioned officers  have  their  shields  oval,  bending  on 
both  sides,  in  order  to  permit  the  arrow  to  glance,  and  they 
have  in  general  the  arms  of  Spain  with  Don  Carlos  IV.  gilt  on 
the  outside,  with  various  other  devices,  which  add  much  to 
the  elegance  of  their  appearance  on  horseback,  but  are  only 
calculated  to  be  of  service  against  savages  who  have  no  fire- 
arms. The  dragoons  of  the  viceroyalty  do  not  make  use  of 
the  lance  or  shield,  but  are  armed,  equipped,  and  clothed 
after  the  modern  manner,  as  are  also  the  dragoons  of  the 
eastern  provinces.  When  they  recently  expected  to  be 
opposed  to  the  American  troops  they  were  deprived  of 
the  lance  and  shield,  and  received  the  straight  cutlass  in 
their  stead. 

Their  dress  is  a  short  blue  coat,  with  red  cape  and  cuffs, 
without  facings,  leather  or  blue  cotton  velvet  small-clothes 
and  waistcoat,  the  small-clothes  always  open  at  the  knee?, 
the  wrapping-boot  with  the  jack-boot  and  permanent  spur 


SPANISH    CAVALRY.  795 

over  it,  a  broad-brimmed,  high-crowned  wool  hat,  with  a  rib- 
bon round  it  of  various  colors,  generally  received  as  a  present 
from  some  female,  which  they  wear  as  a  badge  of  the  favor 
of  the  fair  sex  and  a  mark  of  their  gallantry. 

Their  horses  are  small  and  slender-limbed,  but  very  active 
and  capable  of  enduring  great  fatigue.  The  equipments  of 
the  horses  are,  to  our  idea,  awkward  ;  but  I  believe  them 
superior  to  the  English,  and  they  have  the  advantage  over 
us  in  the  skill  of  the  rider,  as  well  as  in  the  quality  of  the 
beast.  Their  bridles  have  a  strong  curb,  which  gives  so 
great  a  mechanical  force  to  the  bridle  that  I  believe  it  almost 
practicable  with  it  to  break  the  jaw  of  the  beast.  The  sad- 
dle is  made  after  the  Persian  mode,  with  a  high  projecting 
pommel  or,  as  anciently  termed,  bow,  and  is  likewise  raised 
behind.  This  is  merely  the  tree  ;  it  is  then  covered  by  two 
or  three  covers  of  carved  leather  and  embroidered  workman- 
ship, some  with  gold  and  silver  in  a  very  superb  manner. 
The  stirrups  are  of  wood  closed  in  front,  carved  generally 
into  the  figure  of  a  lion's  head,  or  that  of  some  other  beast ; 
they  are  very  heavy,  and  to  us  present  a  very  clumsy  ap- 
pearance. The  horseman,  seated  on  his  horse,  has  a  small 
bag  tied  behind  him,  his  blankets  either  under  him,  or  lying 
with  his  cloak  between  his  body  and  the  bow,  which  makes 
him  at  his  ease.  Thus  mounted,  it  is  impossible  for  the 
most  vicious  horse  ever  to  dismount  them.  They  will  catch 
another  horse  with  a  noose  and  hair  rope,  when  both  are 
running  nearly  at  full  speed,  with  which  they  soon  choke 
down  the  beast  of  which  they  are  in  pursuit ;  in  short,  they 
are  probably  the  most  expert  horsemen  in  the  world. 

At  each  post  is  a  store,  called  the  king's,  where  it  was  the 
original  intention  of  the  government  that  the  soldiers  should 
be  supplied  with  provisions,  clothing,  arms,  etc.,  at  a  cheap 
rate  ;  but  it  being  a  post  generally  given  to  some  young 
ofificer  to  make  his  fortune,  they  are  subject  to  great  imposi- 
tions. When  a  dragoon  joins  the  service  he  receives  from 
the  king  five  horses  and  two  mules,  and  this  number  he  is 
always  obliged  to  keep  good  from  his  own   pocket ;  but 


796  PAY   OF  SPANISH   TROOPS— PUNISHMENTS. 

when  he  is  discharged,  the  horses  and  mules  receive  the  dis- 
charge mark  and  become  his  private  property.  They  engage 
for  five  or  ten  years,  at  the  option  of  the  soldier,  but  in  the 
bounty  there  is  a  very  material  difference.  It  is  extremely 
easy  to  keep  up  their  corps,  as  a  private  dragoon  considers 
himself  upon  an  equality  with  most  of  the  citizens  and  infi- 
nitely superior  to  the  lower  class,  and  not  unfrequently  you 
see  men  of  considerable  fortune  marrying  the  daughters  of 
sergeants  and  corporals. 

The  pay  of  the  troops  of  New  Spain  varies  with  the 
locality,  but  may  be  averaged,  in  the  internal  provinces,  as 
follows  : 

Colonel,  $4,500 ;  lieutenant-colonel,  $4,000  ;  major,  $3,000  ; 
captain,  $2,400 ;  first  lieutenant,  $1,500  ;  second  lieutenant, 
$1,000;  ensign,  $800;  sergeant,  $350;  corporal,  $300;  pri- 
vate, $288.  With  this  pay  they  find  their  own  clothes,  provi- 
sions, arms,  accouterments,  etc.,  after  the  first  equipments. 

Corporal  punishment  is  contrary  to  the  Spanish  ordi- 
nances. They  punish  by  imprisonment,  putting  in  the 
stocks,  and  death.  As  a  remarkable  instance  of  the  disci- 
pline and  regularity  of  conduct  of  those  provincial  troops, 
although  marching  with  them  and  doing  duty  as  it  were  for 
nearly  four  months,  I  never  saw  a  man  receive  a  blow  or  put 
under  confinement  for  one  hour.  How  impossible  would  it 
be  to  regulate  the  turbulent  dispositions  of  the  Americans 
with  such  treatment !  In  making  the  foregoing  remark  I  do 
not  include  officers,  for  I  saw  more  rigorous  treatment  exer- 
cised toward  some  of  them  than  was  ever  practiced  in 
our  army. 

The  discipline  of  their  troops  is  very  different  from  ours. 
As  to  tactics  or  military  maneuvers,  they  are  not  held  in 
much  estimation  ;  for,  during  the  whole  of  the  time  I  was  in 
the  country,  I  never  saw  a  corps  of  troops  exercising  as  dra- 
goons, but  frequently  marching  by  platoons,  sections,  etc., 
in  garrison,  where  they  serve  as  infantry  with  their  carabines. 
In  these  maneuvers  they  are  very  deficient.  On  a  march  a 
detachment  of  cavalry  generally  encamp  in  a  circle.     They 


SPANISH    MILITARY   DISCIPLINE.  797 

relieve  their  guards  at  night  ;  as  soon  as  they  halt  the  new 
guard  is  formed  on  foot  with  their  carabines,  and  then 
marched  before  the  commandant's  tent,  where  the  command- 
ing ofificer  of  the  guard  invokes  the  holy  virgin  three  times  ; 
the  commanding  officer  replies,  "  It  is  well."  They  then 
retire  and  mount  their  horses,  and  are  told  off,  some  to  act 
as  guard  of  the  horses,  as  cavalry,  others  as  guard  of  the 
camp,  as  infantry.  The  old  guards  are  then  paraded  and 
relieved,  and  the  new  sentinels  take  post.  Their  sentinels 
are  singing  half  the  time,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for 
them  to  quit  their  post  to  come  to  the  fire,  go  for  water, 
etc.- — in  fact,  after  the  officer  is  in  bed,  frequently  the  whole 
guard  comes  in ;  yet  I  never  knew  any  man  punished  for 
those  breaches  of  military  duty.  Their  mode  of  attack  is 
by  squadrons,  on  the  different  flanks  of  their  enemies,  but 
without  regularity  or  concert,  shouting,  hallooing,  and  firing 
their  carabines;  after  which,  if  they  think  themselves  equal 
to  the  enemy,  they  charge  with  a  pistol  and  then  a  lance. 
From  my  observation  on  their  discipline  I  have  no  hesita- 
tion in  declaring  that  I  would  not  be  afraid  to  march  over  a 
plain  with  500  infantry  and  a  proportionate  allowance  of 
horse  artillery  of  the  United  States  army,  in  the  presence  of 
5,000  of  these  dragoons.  Yet  I  do  not  presume  to  say  that 
an  army  with  that  inferiority  of  numbers  would  do  to  op- 
pose them,  for  they  would  cut  off  your  supplies,  and  harass 
your  march  and  camp,  night  and  day,  to  such  a  degree  as 
to  oblige  you  in  the  end  to  surrender  to  them  without  ever 
having  come  to  action.  If,  however,  the  event  depended  on 
one  single  engagement,  it  would  eventuate  with  glory  to  the 
American  arms.  The  conclusion  must  not  be  drawn  that  I 
consider  they  are  more  deficient  in  physical  firmness  than 
other  nations,  for  we  see  the  savages,  500  of  whom  on  a 
plain  fly  before  50  bayonets,  on  other  occasions  brave  dan- 
ger and  death  in  its  most  horrid  shapes,  with  an  undaunted 
fortitude  never  surpassed  by  the  most  disciplined  and  hardy 
veterans.  It  arises  solely  from  the  want  of  discipline  and 
confidence  in  each  other,  as  is  always  the  case  with  undisci- 


798  SPANISH    RATIONS   AND    PROMOTIONS. 

plined  corps,  unless  stimulated  by  the  godlike  sentiment  of 
love  of  country,  of  which  these  poor  fellows  know  little.  The 
traveling  food  of  the  dragoons  in  New  Mexico  consists  of  a 
very  excellent  species  of  wheat  biscuit,  and  shaved  meat  well 
dried  [charqui],  with  a  vast  quantity  of  red  pepper  [chile 
Colorado],  of  which  they  make  bouilli  and  then  pour  it  on 
their  broken  biscuit,  when  the  latter  becomes  soft  and  excel- 
lent eating. 

Farther  south  they  use  large  quantities  of  parched  corn- 
meal  and  sugar  [pinole],  as  practiced  by  our  hunters,  each 
dragoon  having  a  small  bag.  In  short,  they  live,  when  on 
command,  on  an  allowance  which  our  troops  would  conceive 
little  better  than  starving,  never,  except  at  night,  attempt- 
ing to  eat  anything  like  a  meal,  but  biting  a  piece  of  biscuit, 
or  drinking  some  parched  meal  with  sugar  and  water,  during 
the  day. 

From  the  physical  as  well  as  moral  properties  of  the 
inhabitants  of  New  Spain,  I  do  believe  they  are  capable  of 
being  made  the  best  troops  in  the  world,  possessing  sobri- 
ety, enterprise,  great  physical  force,  docility,  and  a  concep- 
tion equally  quick  and  penetrating. 

The  mode  of  promotion  in  the  internal  provinces  is 
singular,  but  probably  productive  of  good  effects.  Should 
a  vacancy  of  first  lieutenant  offer  in  a  company,  the  captain 
commanding  nominates,  with  the  senior  second  lieutenant, 
who  by  seniority  would  fill  the  vacancy,  two  other  lieuten- 
ants to  the  general,  giving  his  comments  on  all  three. 
The  general  selects  two  for  a  nomination  to  the  court,  from 
whom  is  selected  the  fortunate  candidate,  whose  commission 
is  made  out  and  forwarded.  As  the  letters  of  nomination 
are  always  kept  a  secret,  it  is  impossible  for  the  young 
officers  to  say  who  is  to  blame  if  they  are  disappointed, 
and  the  fortunate  one  is  in  a  direct  way  to  thank  the  king 
only  for  the  ultimate  decision.  And  thus  with  superior 
grades  to  the  colonel. 

The  king  of  Spain's  ordinances  for  the  government  of  his 
army  are  generally  founded  on  justice  and  a  high  sense  of 


SPANISH   REGULATIONS — COURTS-MARTIAL.  799 

honor.  I  could  not  get  a  set  from  any  of  the  officers  to 
take  to  my  quarters,  consequently  my  observations  on 
them  were  extremely  cursory.  They  provide  that  no  old 
soldier  shall  ever  be  discharged  the  service,  unless  for 
infamous  crimes.  When  a  man  has  served  with  reputation 
for  15  years  and  continues,  his  pay  is  augmented  ;  20  years, 
he  receives  another  augmentation  ;  27  years,  he  receives  the 
brevet  rank  and  pay  of  an  ensign ;  and  32,  a  lieutenant,  etc. 
Those  circumstances  are  a  great  stimulant,  although  not 
one  in  a  thousand  arrives  at  the  third  period,  when  they 
are  permitted  to  retire  from  the  service  with  full  pay  and 
emoluments.  All  sons  of  captains,  or  of  grades  superior, 
are  entitled  to  enter  the  king's  schools  as  cadets,  at  the  age 
of  12  years. 

The  property  of  any  officer  or  soldier  who  is  killed  on 
the  field  of  battle,  or  dies  of  his  wounds,  is  not  liable  to 
be  taken  for  debt,  and  is  secured,  as  well  as  the  king's 
pension,  to  the  relatives  of  the  deceased. 

Courts-martial  for  the  trial  of  commissioned  officers  must 
be  formed  of  general  officers ;  but  this  clause  subjects  the 
officers  of  the  provinces  to  a  great  species  of  tyranny,  for 
the  commanding  general  has  taken  it  upon  himself  to 
punish  for  all  offenses  not  capital,  and  consequently  accord- 
ing to  his  own  judgment  and  prejudices,  from  which  there 
is  only  an  appeal  to  the  king,  and  difficult  it  is  indeed  for 
the  complaints  of  a  subaltern  to  reach  his  majesty  through 
the  numerous  crowd  of  sycophants  who  surround  him,  one- 
half  of  whom  are  probably  in  league  with  his  oppressor.  It 
likewise  deprives  an  officer  of  the  most  sacred  of  all 
rights,  that  of  being  tried  by  his  peers ;  for,  should  he  be 
sent  to  Mexico  or  Europe  for  trial,  it  is  possible  he  cannot 
take  half  the  testimony  which  is  necessary  to  complete  his 
justification. 

There  is  another  principle  defined  by  the  ordinances, 
which  has  often  been  the  cause  of  disputes  in  the  service 
of  the  United  States.  The  commandant  of  a  post  in  the 
Spanish  service,  if  barely  a  captain,  receives  no  orders  from 


800       SPANISH    PRINCIPLES   OF   MILITARY   AUTHORITY. 

a  general,  should  one  arrive  at  his  post,  unless  that  general 
should  be  superior  in  authority  to  the  person  who  posted 
him  ;  for,  says  the  ordinance,  he  is  responsible  to  the  king 
alone  for  his  post.  That  principle,  according  to  my  ideas, 
is  very  injurious  to  the  country  which  adopts  it.  For 
example,  we  will  say  that  a  post  of  great  importance,  con- 
taining immense  military  stores,  is  likely  to  fall  into  the 
hands  of  the  enemy ;  an  officer  superior  to  the  commandant 
receives  the  information,  repairs  to  the  post,  and  orders  him 
immediately  to  evacuate  it.  The  commandant,  feeling 
himself  only  responsible  to  the  authority  who  placed  him 
in  that  position,  refuses  to  obey,  and  the  magazines  and 
place  are  lost.  The  principle  is  also  subversive  of  the  very 
root  of  military  subordination  and  discipline,  where  an  in- 
ferior should  in  all  cases  obey  a  superior,  who  alone  should 
be  responsible  for  the  effect  arising  from  the  execution  of 
his  orders.  It  will  readily  be  believed  that,  in  my  thus 
advocating  implicit  obedience  to  the  orders  of  a  superior, 
that  I  do  not  suppose  the  highest  improbabilities  or  impos- 
sibilities, such  as  an  order  to  turn  your  arms  against  the 
constituted  authority  of  your  country,  or  to  be  the  ensign 
of  his  tyranny  or  the  pander  of  his  vices.  Those  are  cases 
where  a  man's  reason  must  alone  direct  him,  and  are  not 
— indeed,  cannot  be — subject  to  any  human  rule  whatever. 

Religion.  It  forms  a  subject  with  which  I  am  very  im- 
perfectly acquainted  ;  but,  having  made  some  inquiries  and 
observations  on  the  religion  of  the  country,  I  will  freely 
communicate  them,  fearful  at  the  same  time  that  I  lay 
myself  open  to  the  severe  criticism  of  persons  who  have  in 
any  degree  applied  themselves  to  the  study  of  theology  or 
the  ritual  of  the  catholic  church. 

The  kingdom  of  New  Spain  is  divided  into  four  archbish- 
oprics, viz.:  Mexico,  Guadalaxara,  Durango,  and  St.  Louis 
Potosi.  Under  these  again  are  the  sub-bishoprics — deacons, 
curates,  etc.,  all  of  whom  are  subject  and  accountable  to 
their  immediate  chief  for  the  districts  committed  to  their 
charge,  and  the  whole  are  again  subject  to  the  ordinances  of 


SPANISH   ECCI.ESIASTICISM.  8oi 

the  high  court  of  inquisition  held  at  the  capital  of  Mexico, 
whence  are  fulminated  the  edicts  of  their  censure  against  the 
heresies  and  impious  doctrines  of  modern  philosophy,  both 
as  to  politics  and  religion.  I  am  credibly  informed  that  the 
influence  of  that  tribunal  is  greater  in  his  Catholic  majesty's 
Mexican  dominions  than  in  any  Catholic  country  in  Europe 
or  perhaps  in  the  world.  A  few  years  since  they  condemned 
a  man  to  the  flames,  for  asserting  and  maintaining  some 
doctrine  which  they  deemed  heretical ;  and  a  Jew  who  was 
imprudent  enough  to  take  the  image  of  Christ  on  a  cross, 
and  put  it  under  the  sill  of  his  door,  saying  privately  he 
would  make  the  dogs  walk  over  their  God.  They  like- 
wise examine  and  condemn  to  the  flames  all  books  of  a 
modern  sentiment,  either  as  to  religion  or  politics,  and 
excommunicate  anyone  in  whose  hands  they  may  be  found. 
I  recollect  to  have  seen  a  decree  of  theirs  published  in  the 
Mexican  gazettes,  condemning  a  number  of  books,  "  as 
heretical  and  contrary  to  the  sacred  principles  of  the  holy 
Catholic  church,  and  the  peace  and  durability  of  the  govern- 
ment of  his  Catholic  majesty."  Amongst  these  were  men- 
tioned Helvetius  on  Man,  J.  J.  Rousseau's  works,  Voltaire's, 
Mirabeau's,  and  a  number  of  others  of  that  description ; 
even  at  so  great  a  distance  as  Chihuahua  a  officer  dared  not 
take  Pope's  Essay  on  Man  to  his  quarters,  but  used  to  come 
to  mine  to  read  it. 

The  salaries  of  the  archbishops  are  superior  to  those  of 
any  officers  in  the  kingdom  ;  the  bishop  of  Mexico's  being 
estimated  at  $150,000  per  annum,  when  the  viceroy's  is 
$80,000,  with  $50,000  allowed  for  his  table,  falling  short 
of  the  bishop's  $20,000. 

Those  incomes  are  raised  entirely  from  the  people,  who 
pay  no  tax  to  the  king,  but  give  one-tenth  of  their  yearly 
income  to  the  clergy,  besides  the  fees  of  confessions,  bulls, 
burials,  baptisms,  marriages,  and  a  thousand  impositions 
which  the  corruption  of  priestcraft  has  introduced,  and 
which  have  been  kept  up  by  their  superstition  and  igno- 
rance.   Notwithstanding  all  this,  the  inferior  clergy,  who  do 


8o2  SPANISH    POLITICS. 

all  the  slavery  of  the  office,  are  liberal  and  well-informed 
men  ;  I  scarcely  saw  one  who  was  not  in  favor  of  a  change 
of  government.  They  are  generally  Creoles  by  birth,  and 
always  kept  in  subordinate  grades,  without  the  least  shadow 
of  a  probability  of  rising  to  the  superior  dignities  of  the 
church.  This  has  soured  their  minds  to  such  a  degree 
that  I  am  confident  in  asserting  that  they  will  lead  the  van 
whenever  the  standard  of  independence  is  raised  in  that 
country. 

Politics.  It  has  often  been  a  subject  of  discussion  with 
politicians,  in  what  manner  a  mother  country  should  treat 
her  distant  and  powerful  colonies,  in  order  to  retain  them 
longest  in  their  subjection ;  for  the  history  of  all  nations 
and  all  ages  has  proved  that  no  community  of  people 
separated  from  another  by  an  immense  ocean,  feeling  their 
power,  strength,  and  independence,  will  remain  long  subject 
to  the  mother  country,  purely  from  the  ties  of  consanguinity 
and  similarity  of  habits,  manners,  and  religion.  Society 
itself  having  arisen  from  the  mutual  wants,  fears,  and 
imbecility  of  the  infancy  of  human  institutions,  a  large 
body  of  that  society  will  remain  no  longer  subject  to 
another  branch,  at  the  immense  distance  of  1,000  leagues, 
than  until  they  feel  their  maturity,  and  capability  of  pro- 
viding for  their  own  wants  and  their  own  defense.  There- 
fore we  may  draw  a  conclusion  that  no  political  course  of 
conduct  whatever  will  eventually  prevent  the  separation  ; 
but  there  is  a  line  of  conduct  which  certainly  must  retard 
it  in  a  great  measure ;  and  prudence  would  dictate  to  the 
mother  country  the  policy  of  giving  way  without  a  struggle 
to  an  event  beyond  her  power  to  prevent. 

The  two  great  examples  of  English  and  Spanish  America 
are  before  our  eyes.  England  gave  us  liberty  to  pursue 
the  dictates  of  our  own  judgment  with  respect  to  trade, 
education,  and  manners,  by  which  means  we  increased  in 
power,  learning,  and  wealth,  with  a  rapidity  unknown  in  the 
annals  of  the  world,  and  at  the  first  attempt  to  infringe 
the  rights  which  we  had    hitherto  enjoyed,  asserted  that 


ENGLISH   AND   SPANISH-AMERICAN   DIPLOMACY.        803 

claim  which  nature  and  the  locality  of  our  situation  gave 
us  a  right  to  demand  and  a  power  to  defend.  Had  Great 
Britain  yielded  to  the  storm  with  grace  and  dignity,  she 
would  have  secured  our  gratitude,  ancient  prejudices,  and 
affections  in  her  favor ;  on  the  contrary,  by  a  long  and 
arduous  conflict,  the  murder  of  thousands  of  our  citizens, 
the  destruction  of  our  country,  the  profanation  of  our  altars, 
and  the  violation  of  every  right,  divine  and  human,  she 
implanted  in  the  breast  of  the  Americans  an  antipathy 
approaching  nearly  to  horror,  a  desire  of  revenge  almost 
hereditary  ;  and  destroyed  the  bonds  of  brotherhood  which 
might  have  subsisted  between  the  two  countries.  It  will 
take  ages  of  just  conduct  from  her  to  the  United  States  to 
eradicate  this.  Spain  pursued  a  different  line  of  conduct 
toward  her  Mexican  dominions,  which  were  settled  by 
Europeans  60  years  previous  to  any  part  of  the  United 
States,  and  might  be  termed  a  conquered  kingdom,  rather 
than  the  settlement  of  a  savage  country.  This  country  she 
has  therefore  bound  up  in  all  the  ligatures  of  restrictions, 
monopolies,  prohibitions,  seclusions,  and  superstitions;  and 
has  so  carefully  secluded  all  light  from  bursting  in  on  their 
ignorance,  that  they  have  vegetated  like  the  acorns  in  the 
forest,  until  the  towering  branches  have  broken  through 
the  darkness  of  the  wild  which  surrounded  them  and  let 
in  the  light  of  heaven.  The  approximation  of  the  United 
States,  with  the  gigantic  strides  of  French  ambition,  have 
begun  to  arouse  their  dormant  qualities,  and  to  call  into 
action  the  powers  of  their  minds  on  the  subject  of  their 
political  situation. 

An  instance  of  their  disposition  for  independence  has 
been  exhibited  in  their  feeble  attempts  at  a  revolution  on 
the  15th  of  January,  1624,  under  the  viceroyalty  of  Don 
Diego  Carrello  Galves;  the  insurrection  on  the  8th  of  June, 
1692;  and  more  recently,  in  1797,  under  the  Count  de 
Galves,"  when  they  proclaimed  him  king  of  Mexico  in  the 

"  Bernardo  Galvez  y  Gallardo,  viceroy  of  Mexico  from  June  i6th,  1785,  until 
his  death  at  Tacubaya,  Nov.  30th,  1786.    He  was  b.  at  Marcharavieja  July  23d, 


804  SPANISH   INSURRECTION. 

streets  of  the  capital,  and  130,000  souls  were  heard  pro- 
claiming, "  Long  live  Galvez,  king  of  Mexico ! "  It  was 
then  only  for  him  to  have  willed  it,  and  the  kingdom  of 
Mexico  was  lost  to  Charles  IV.  forever.  But  preferring  his 
loyalty  to  his  ambition,  he  rode  out  attended  by  his  guards 
to  the  mob,  with  sword  in  hand,  crying  out,  "  Long  live  his 
Catholic  majesty,  Charles  IV.,"  and  threatening  to  put  to 
instant  death  with  his  own  hand  any  persons  who  refused 
immediately  to  retire  to  their  houses.  This  dispersed  the 
people.  In  another  quarter  of  the  kingdom  an  immense 
number  had  also  collected  and  proclaimed  him  king.  He 
sent  10,000  men  against  them,  dispersed  them,  and  had  four 
beheaded.  Those  firm  measures  saved  the  country  at  that 
period,  and  for  them  he  received  the  greatest  honors  from 
the  court  of  Spain  ;  but  was  poisoned  a  short  time  after,  ful- 
filling the  maxim  that  "  it  is  dangerous  to  serve  a  jealous 
tyrant."  For  such  always  conceive  that  the  same  power 
which  stilled  the  ocean's  rage  can  by  its  will  raise  the  storm 
into  all  the  majesty  of  overwhelming  fury.  Thus,  by  tak- 
ing his  life,  it  relieved  them  from  the  dread  of  his  influence 
with  the  Mexicans. 

England  would  naturally  have  been  the  power  they  would 
have  looked  up  to,  in  order  to  form  an  alliance  to  secure 
their  independence  ;  but  the  insatiable  avarice  and  hauteur 
exhibited  by  the  English  in  their  late  descents  at  La  Plate 
[La  Plata,  in  South  America],  with  the  disgrace  of  their 
arms,  has  turned  their  views  from  that  nation. 

They  therefore  have  turned  their  eyes  toward  the  United 
States,  as  to  a  sister  of  the  same  soil,  in  their  vicinity — one 
who  has  within  her  power  ample  resources  of  arms,  am- 
munition, and  even  men,  to  assist  in  securing  their  independ- 
ence, and  who  in  that  event  would  secure  to  herself  the 
almost  exclusive  trade  of  the  richest  country  in  the  world  for 
centuries,  and  [the  opportunity]  to  be  her  carriers  as  long 
as  the  two  nations  exist.     For  Mexico,  like  China,  will  never 

1746,    was    son    of    Mathias  de    Galvez,  and  had    a    very  eminent  career  as 
soldier  and  statesman. 


SPANISH   RELATIONS  TO   THE   UNITED   STATES.        805 

become  a  nation  of  mariners,  but  will  receive  the  ships  of 
all  the  world  into  her  ports,  and  give  her  bullion  in  exchange 
for  the  productions  of  their  different  countries.  Then,  what 
would  not  be  the  advantages  the  United  States  would  reap 
from  the  event !  Our  numerous  vessels  would  fill  every 
port,  and  our  vicinity  would  enable  us  to  carry  off  at  least 
nine-tenths  of  her  commerce ;  even  on  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific  no  European  nation  could  vie  with  us.  There 
would  also  be  a  brisk  inland  trade  carried  on  with  the 
Spanish  provinces  via  Red  river;  and  having  a  free  en- 
trance into  all  their  ports,  we  should  become  their  factors, 
agents,  guardians — in  short,  their  tutelar  genius ;  as  they 
fear  but  hate  France  and  all  French  men  and  measures.  It 
therefore  remains  for  the  government  of  the  United  States 
to  decide  whether,  if  Bonaparte  should  seize  the  crown  of 
Spain,  the  States  would  hold  out  a  helping  hand  to  emanci- 
pate another  portion  of  the  western  hemisphere  from  the 
bonds  of  European  tyranny  and  oppression :  or,  by  a  different 
policy,  suffer  6,ooo,(X>0  people  to  become,  in  the  hands  of 
French  intrigue,  enterprise,  and  tactics,  a  scourge  on  our 
southwestern  boundaries,  which  would  oblige  us  to  keep  up 
a  large  and  respectable  military  force,  and  continually  lay 
us  liable  to  a  war  on  the  weakest  and  most  vulnerable  part 
of  our  frontiers. 

Twenty  thousand  auxiliaries  from  the  United  States 
under  good  officers,  joined  to  the  independents  of  the 
country,  are  at  any  time  sufficient  to  create  and  effect  the 
revolution.  These  troops  can  be  raised  and  officered  in  the 
United  States,  but  paid  and  supplied  at  the  expense  of 
Mexico.  It  would  be  requisite  that  not  only  the  general 
commanding,  but  that  every  officer,  down  to  the  youngest 
ensign,  should  be  impressed  with  the  necessity  of  support- 
ing a  strict  discipline,  to  prevent  marauding,  which  should 
in  some  instances  be  punished  with  death,  in  order  to 
convince  the  citizens  that  we  come  as  their  friends  and 
protectors,  not  as  their  plunderers  and  tyrants.  Also,  the 
most  sacred  regard  should  be  paid  not  to  injure  the  insti- 


8o6  END   OF  OBSERVATIONS  ON  NEW   SPAIN. 

tutions  of  their  religion  ;  thereby  showing  them  we  have 
a  proper  respect  for  all  things  in  any  way  connected  with 
the  worship  of  the  Deity,  at  the  same  time  that  we  permit 
every  man  to  adore  him  agreeably  to  the  dictates  of  his 
own  judgment. 

The  details  requisite  for  the  equipment,  organization,  etc., 
of  the  corps,  so  as  to  adapt  it  to  the  locality  of  the  country 
and  the  nature  of  the  service,  could  be  easily  formed,  but 
would  be  impertinent  here. 

Should  an  army  of  Americans  ever  march  into  the 
country,  and  be  guided  and  governed  by  these  maxims, 
they  will  only  have  to  march  from  province  to  province  in 
triumph,  and  be  hailed  by  the  united  voices  of  grateful 
millions  as  their  deliverers  and  saviors,  whilst  our  national 
character  resounds  to  the  most  distant  nations  of  the  earth. 

Washington,  April  12th,  1808. 


CHAPTER  V. 

CORRESPONDENCE." 
Art.  I.     Letter,  Pike  to  Allencaster.    {Orig.  No.  8,  pp.  6g,  70.) 

[TRANSLATION.] 

Santa  Fe,  March  3d,  1807. 
Sir  : 

On  the  arrival  of  your  troops  at   my  encampment,  last 

month,   under  the   command   of    Lieutenant    Don    Ignacio 

Saltelo  and   Mr.  Bartholomew,  they  informed  me  that  your 

Excellency  had  directed  them  to  assure  me  that  I  should  be 

escorted    through   your  dominions  to  the    source   of    Red 

river,  as  our  being  on  the  frontiers  of  your  province  gave 

cause  to  suspicion.     I  conceived  it  more  proper  to  comply 

with  the  request  and  repair  to  Santa  Fe,  in  order  to  explain 

to  your  Excellency  any  circumstance  which   might  appear 

extraordinary ;  but  on  my  arrival  here   I   am   informed  by 

'  The  Appendix  to  Pt.  3  of  the  orig.  ed.  was  the  most  extraordinary 
hotch-potch  I  ever  saw  in  type — a  lot  of  letters  and  other  papers  bundled 
together  in  no  intelligible  or  imaginable  order.  There  being  no  evidence  of 
design  or  purpose,  the  first  step  toward  bringing  an  appearance  of  order  out  of 
this  confusion  must  be  taken  by  disregarding  the  original  helter-skelter  entirely, 
and  by  rearranging  the  various  pieces  of  which  this  Appendix  consisted  as  freely 
as  if  they  were  loose  manuscripts  accidentally  disordered.  The  documents  with 
which  we  have  to  do  were  disarranged  as  follows  : 

No.  1.  Pike's  Observations  on  New  Spain,  the  leading  article,  not  numbered, 
making  pp.  1-5 1,  or  more  than  half  of  the  whole  Appendix.  (This  I  have  dis- 
posed of  in  the  foregoing  Chap.  IV.) 

No.  2,  pp.  52,  53.  A  fragmentary  vocabulary  of  Mississippi  place-names, 
having  no  connection  with  Pt.  3  of  the  book.  (This  I  have  made  Chap.  IX., 
PP-  355.  35*J.  of  P''  I,  where  it  belongs.) 

No.  3,  pp.  53-55.     A  letter  from  Pike  to  Wilkinson. 

No.  4,  pp.  55-57.     A  letter  from  Wilkinson  to  Pike. 

No.  5,  pp.  57-63.     A  letter  from  Pike  to  Wilkinson. 

No.  6,  pp.  64-68.  A  Congressional  report,  with  accompanying  documents, 
including  matter  relating  to  all  three  of  Pike's  expeditions,  yet  lacking  one  o£ 

807 


8o8  LETTER,  PIKE   TO   ALLENCASTER. 

your  Excellency  that  it  is  necessary  for  myself  and  troops 
to  pass  by  Chihuahua  in  the  province  of  Biscay,  more  than 
200  leagues  out  of  my  route.  I  have  demanded  of  your 
Excellency  to  know  if  we  are  to  be  considered  as  prisoners 
of  war.  You  inform  me  that  you  do  not  consider  us  in  that 
light.  Not  to  embarrass  your  Excellency  with  many  de- 
mands, I  only  request  to  receive  it  from  under  your  hand, 
in  what  manner  I  am  to  consider  myself,  and  the  orders  for 
my  passing  into  the  country  ;  also,  whether  the  expense 
of  the  voyage  is  to  be  considered  as  defrayed  by  the  gov- 
ernment of  Spain  or  of  the  United  States.  Excuse  my  lan- 
guage, as  I  am  not  much  accustomed  to  writing  in  French, 
but  your  Excellency's  having  no  person  who  understands 
English  obliges  me  to  attempt  that  language. 

I  am.  Sir,  etc., 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 

the  most  important  of  the  papers  belonging  to  it  (see  No.  13,  below).  (All 
these  I  shall  relegate  to  the  following  Chap.  VI.) 

No.  7,  p.  69.  A  mere  paragraph  about  a  priest.  (This  I  have  simply  inter- 
polated in  the  text  of  the  itinerary,  Chap.  II.,  pp.  603,  604 — the  place  where  it 
belongs.) 

No.  8,  pp.  69,  70.     A  letter  from  Pike  to  Allencaster. 

No.  9,  p.  70.     A  certificate  from  Allencaster  to  Pike. 

No.  10,  p.  71.     A  letter  from  Pike  to  Allencaster. 

No.  II,  p.  72.     A  letter  from  Pike  to  Salcedo. 

No.  12,  p.  72.     A  letter  from  Salcedo  to  Pike. 

No.  13,  pp.  73-77.  The  missing  document  which  belongs  to  No.  6  (see 
above),  being  a  brief  sketch  of  Pike's  Arkansaw  Expedition  and  of  his  Mexican 
Tour,  no  date,  no  place,  no  addressee.  (This,  of  course,  goes  with  No.  6,  in 
the  following  Chap.  VI.) 

No.  14,  pp.  78,  79.     A  letter  from  Pike  to  Salcedo. 

No.  15,  pp.  79,  80.     A  letter  from  Salcedo  to  Pike. 

No.  16,  pp.  80-82.  Inventory  of  papers  seized  by  the  Spanish  authorities, 
with  accompanying  certificate. 

No.  17,  pp.  82,  83.     A  letter  from  Pike  to  Salcedo. 

No.  18,  pp.  83-85.     A  letter  from  Pike  to  Salcedo. 

No.  19,  pp.  86,  87.     A  letter  from  Salcedo  to  Wilkinson. 

By  eliminating  from  the  above  No.  i.  No.  2,  No.  6,  No.  7,  and  No.  13,  as 
above  indicated,  the  residuum  consists  entirely  of  correspondence  relating  to  the 
Mexican  Tour,  which  is  easily  rearranged  in  the  chronological  order  of  the 
several  letters,  and  thus  forms  the  present  Chapter  V. 


CERTIFICATE,  ALLENCASTER  TO   PIKE.  809 

Art.  2.     Certificate,  Allencaster  to  Pike.     {Orig.  No.g,p.yo.) 

[TRANSLATION.] 

Santa  Fe,  March  3d,  1807. 

The  first  lieutenant  of  the  Anglo-American  troops,  of  the 
name  of  Z.  Montgomery  Pike,  with  the  party  of  soldiers 
under  his  command,  having  been  met  with  by  the  troops 
under  my  orders,  at  four  days'  journey  from  the  seat  of 
government,  in  this  province,  which  is  under  my  charge,  he 
was  required  personally  to  appear,  which  he  voluntarily 
did ;  and,  complying  with  the  orders  of  the  commanding- 
general  of  these  internal  provinces,  I  bade  the  said  lieuten- 
ant proceed  on  his  march,  with  his  party,  equipped  with 
horses,  provisions,  and  equipage,  under  the  charge  of  an 
officer  and  60  men  of  our  troops,  with  orders  to  intro- 
duce him  to  the  said  commanding-general  in  the  town  of 
Chihuahua. 

I  permitted  said  party  to  carry  their  arms  and  ammuni- 
tion, being  actuated  by  proper  consideration,  and  in  order 
to  grant  said  Anglo-American's  petition. 

I  certify  the  foregoing  contents  to  be  accurate. 

[Signed]    JOACHiN  Rl.  Allencaster. 


Art.  J.     Letter,  Pike  to  Allencaster.     (Orig.  No.  10,  p.  71.) 

St.  Fernandez,  March  7th,  1807. 
Sir: 

On  my  arrival  at  this  village,  and  meeting  with  Dr.  Rob- 
inson, he  informed  me  he  had  acknowledged  to  Lieutenant 
Malgares  to  belong  to  my  party.  As  this  acknowledgment, 
in  fact,  only  interested  himself,  I  am  constrained  to  explain 
to  your  Excellency  my  reasons  for  having  denied  his  con- 
nection with  me.  He  marched  from  St.  Louis  with  my 
detachment  as  a  volunteer,  after  having  with  much  pain  and 
solicitation  obtained  permission  from  the  general  for  that 
purpose.  On  our  arrival  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  then  sup- 
posed to  be  Red  river,  he  left  the  party  in  order  to  come  to 
Santa  Fe,  with  a  view  of  obtaining  information  as  to  trade, 


8lO  LETTER,  PIKE   TO  ALLENCASTER. 

and  collecting  some  debts  due  to  persons  in  the  Illinois.  On 
my  being  informed  of  his  embarrassments,  I  conceived  it 
would  be  adding  to  them  to  acknowledge  his  having  accom- 
panied a  military  party  to  the  frontiers  of  the  province,  and 
conceived  myself  bound  in  honor  and  friendship  to  conceal 
it ;  but  his  scorning  any  longer  the  disguise  he  assumed  has 
left  me  at  liberty  to  make  this  acknowledgment  to  your  Ex- 
cellency, which  I  hope  will  sufficiently  exculpate  me  in  the 
opinion  of  every  man  of  honor,  and  of  the  world,  for  having 
denied  a  fact  when  I  conceived  the  safety  of  a  friend,  in  a 
foreign  country,  was  concerned  in  the  event. 

The  above  statement  will  be  corroborated  by  General 
Wilkinson,  and  he  will  be  reclaimed  by  the  United  States  as 
a  citizen,  agreeably  to  our  treaties  with  Spain  regulating  the 
intercourse,  commerce,  etc.,  between  the  two  nations. 

I  felt  disposed  to  enter  into  an  expostulation  with  your 
Excellency,  as  to  the  deception  practiced  on  me  by  the 
officers  who  came  out  with  your  invitation  to  enter  the  prov- 
ince ;  but  will  omit  it,  and  only  request  that  my  sergeant 
and  party  may  be  ordered  to  follow  with  all  possible  dis- 
patch, as  he  has  all  my  astronomical  instruments,  and  cloth- 
ing, except  what  I  now  wear. 

I  have  found  Lieutenant  Malgares  to  be  what  you  stated, 
a  gentleman  and  a  soldier,  and  I  sincerely  wish  the  fortune 
of  war  may  one  day  enable  me  to  show  the  gentlemen  of  the 
Spanish  army  with  whom  I  have  had  the  honor  of  forming 
an  acquaintance,  with  what  gratitude  I  appreciate  their 
friendship  and  poHteness,  and  none  more  highly  than  your 
Excellency's.  With  sincere,  etc., 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  Pike. 


Ar/.  4.     Letter,  Pike  to  Sakedo.     {Orig.  No.  17,  pp.  82,  8j.) 

Chihuahua,  April  4th,  1807. 
Sir: 

I  hope  your  Excellency  may  not  attribute  it  to  presump- 
tion or  a  disposition  to  intrude,  when  I  address  you  on  a 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO  SALCEDO.  8ri 

subject  foreign  to  my  official  duties,  and  on  which  I  can  only 
speak  as  an  individual  ;  for  I  should  feel  myself  wanting  in 
humanity,  and  that  attention  which  every  man  owes  to  his 
fellow-creatures  in  distress,  should  I  remain  silent,  more 
especially  when  those  who  are  compatriots,  and  some  of 
them  former  companions,  are  now  in  a  strange  country,  lan- 
guishing out  their  days  far  from  their  friends  and  relations, 
with  scarcely  a  dawn  of  hope  remaining  of  ever  again  being 
blessed  with  a  view  of  their  native  homes.  It  is  scarcely  nec- 
essary to  add  that  I  allude  to  the  unfortunate  companions 
of  [Captain  Philip]  Nolan,  who,  having  entered  the  terri- 
tories of  his  Catholic  Majesty  in  a  clandestine  manner, 
equally  in  violation  of  the  treaties  between  the  two  govern- 
ments, the  laws  of  the  United  States,  and  those  of  Spain, 
could  not  be  reclaimed  or  noticed  by  their  own  country. 
Yet,  from  every  information  I  have  received  on  the  subject, 
the  men  of  the  party  were  innocent,  believing  that  Nolan 
had  passports  from  the  Spanish  governor  to  carry  on  the 
traffic  of  horses.  I  pretend  not  to  justify  the  many  irregu- 
larities of  their  conduct  since  [they  have  been]  in  the  Span- 
ish dominions ;  but  hope  that  these  may  be  viewed  with  an 
eye  of  clemency,  as  the  men  are  most  of  them  very  illiterate, 
possessing  scarcely  any  part  of  an  education. 

David  Fero  was  formerly  a  subaltern  in  a  company  of 
infantry  of  the  United  States  commanded  by  my  father  at 
the  time  I  served  as  a  volunteer,  but  left  the  service,  as  I 
have  been  informed,  owing  to  some  irregularities  of  conduct. 
His  having  been  once  my  companion  entitles  him  at  present 
to  my  particular  attention  ;  yet  I  will  here  mention  to  your 
Excellency  a  circumstance  which  may  appear,  if  known,  in 
an  unfavorable  light,  viz.:  About  15  days  past  I  was  in- 
formed Fero  was  in  town,  and  that  he  desired  to  see  me.  I 
was  extremely  mortified  at  receiving  the  information,  as  I 
conceived  he  must  have  left  his  post  in  a  clandestine 
manner;  yet  I  could  not  find  it  in  my  heart  to  refuse 
the  interview,  which  I  gave,  but  determined  at  the  same 
time    to   inform  you  of    the  circumstance,  conceiving  that 


8l2  LETTER,  PIKE   TO   SALCEDO. 

you  could  not  look  on  it  as  a  matter  of  much  criminality. 
[Note  ",  p.  660.] 

But  to  conclude,  I  have  to  beg  of  your  Excellency,  if  it  be 
in  your  power  and  consistent  with  the  line  of  conduct  you 
conceive  proper  to  pursue,  to  inform  me  if  anything  can  be 
done  toward  restoring  these  poor  fellows  to  their  liberty, 
friends,  and  country  ;  and  in  a  particular  manner  I  intercede 
for  Fero.  If  it  is  out  of  the  power  of  the  general  to  grant 
them  leave  to  return  to  the  United  States,  I  beg  to  know  if 
there  be  any  objection  to  my  taking  letters  to  their  fathers, 
wives,  etc.  I  should  not  have  addressed  this  letter  to 
the  general,  had  I  not  conceived  the  fate  of  those  men  to 
be  at  his  disposal,  as  he  had  suffered  one  of  them  to  join 
the  service  of  his  Catholic  Majesty;  neither  do  I  request 
the  honor  of  any  other  than  a  verbal  reply,  as  I  write  in 
the  character  of  an  individual,  not  as  an  officer  of  the 
United  States. 

I  am.  Sir, 

With  high  consideration, 

Your  humble,  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 
His  Excellency, 
General  Nimesio  Salcedo. 


Art.  s'     Letter,  Pike  to  Salcedo.     (Orig.  No.  11,  p.  73.) 

Chihuahua,  April  6th,  1806  [/.  e.,  1807]. 
Sir: 

Having  been  for  near  the  space  of  a  year  absent  from  my 
country,  the  probability  of  its  yet  being  two  or  three  months 
before  I  arrive  in  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  and  the 

'  On  this  subject  I  can  throw  a  little  further  light,  as  reflected  from  some 
documents  which  I  find  on  file  in  the  Archives  of  the  War  Department.  The 
following  letter  is  in  a  clerk's  hand,  with  Pike's  signature  : 

Washington  CITY  Feby.  lo"".  1808. 
Sir, 

Being  informed  that  the  Chevalier  Don  Fownda,  Charge  des  affaires  from  his 
Catholic  Majesty  to  the  United  States,  has  forwarded  to  your  office  an  account 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   SALCEDO.  813 

necessity  of  passing  through  some  hundred  leagues  of  foreign 
territory,  with  the  distressed  situation  of  my  troops,  have 
induced  me  to  apply  to  your  Excellency  for  a  necessary 
supply  of  money.  Any  arrangement  which  may  be  con- 
ceived proper  for  the  remuneration  I  will  cheerfully  adopt, 
to  pay  it  either  to  the  Spanish  consul  at  New  Orleans,  or 
the  ambassador  of  his  Catholic  Majesty  at  Washington. 

The  sum  which  I  conceive  will  answer  the  present  pur- 
poses of  myself  and  troops  is  $1,000,  for  which  I  will  give 
such  vouchers  as  your  Excellency  may  conceive  proper. 
I  have  the  honor  to  assure  your  Excellency 
of  my  high  respect,  and 

to  be  your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 
His  Excellency, 
General  Salcedo. 

of  expenses  said  to  have  occurred  in  consequence  of  my  being  obliged  to  pass 
thro'  the  internal  provinces  of  New  Spain,  amounting  to  a  sum,  exceeding  21,000 
Dollars. — I  have  thought  it  proper  to  state  to  you  the  following  circumstances. 
On  my  being  informed  by  the  Gov'',  at  Santa  fe  that  I  should  be  obliged  to  go 
to  Chihuahua,  I  addressed  a  letter  to  him  in  which  amongst  other  topics — I  de- 
manded to  be  advised  if  myself  and  troops  were  to  be  supported  at  the  expense 
of  the  U  States  or  his  Catholic  majesty — On  this  subject  he  was  silent  in  his 
reply — but  the  day  I  marched  from  that  city  sent  me  a  small  sum  of  money, 
which  I  was  informed  was  the  subsistence  money  of  my  party  to  Chihuahua — 
at  which  place  I  refunded  said  sum  to  an  officer  of  the  Gov",  acquaintance  & 
took  his  receipt  for  the  same — at  the  seat  of  goverment  I  received  $1000  and 
gave  triplicate  receipts  making  my  goverment  responsible  for  the  same — and  on 
the  close  of  my  correspondence  with  Gen'.  Salcedo  was  informed  that  I  should 
be  conveyed  to  our  territories  in  the  same  manner  I  had  been  from  New  Mexico 
to  Chihuahua — That  was  to  find  our  own  subsistence — but  all  other  expences 
to  be  paid  by  the  Spanish  officers.— I  left  a  requisition  that  my  party  in  the  rear 
might  be  allowed  §2^  per  diem  for  their  subsistence,  and  as  this  was  for  the 
support  of  our  troops,  when  in  their  country,  it  remains  to  be  decided  by 
our  Gov',  whether  they  will  refund  the  money— At  the  first  place  where  I 
changed  my  escort  on  this  side  of  Chihuahua,  pay  was  demanded  for  the  services 
of  the  mules,  and  horses,  which  I  positively  refused — but  finding  the  officer  was 
embarassed,  I  gave  him  a  receipt  agreable  to  the  enclosed  copy  and  date. — at 
S'.  Antonio  I  received  $200  of  Govr.  Cordero — whereof  the  account  stands  en- 
closed— but  I  presume  in  justice  no  part  should  be  allowed  except  the  cash 
advanced,  and  the  mens  subsistence — as  agreable  to  the  Chevaliers  own  maxim 


8i4  LETTER,  SALCEDO  TO   PIKE. 

Art.  6.     Letter,  Salcedo  to  Pike.     {Orig.  No.  12,  p.  72.) 

[TRANSLATION.] 

Chihuahua,  April  7th,  1807. 
Acceding  to  the  solicitation  you  have  made  in  your  letter 
of  yesterday,  that  from  the  royal  treasury  of  this  place  there 
should  be  delivered  you  one  thousand  dollars,  which  you  say 
are  necessary  for  the  accommodation  of  the  troops  of  the 
United  States  of  America  which  you  have  under  your 
charge,  or  whatsoever  other  sum  you  choose  to  demand, 
and  that  the  government  of  the  said  United  States  shall 

— "  the  Cover mrnt  vihkh  unnecessarily  produced  the  e-xpenditures  ought  in  jus- 
tice to  defray  them  " — . 

I  have  the  lienor  to  be, 
Sir, 

With  high  consideration 

Your  most  ob'.  Serv'. 

[Signed]     Z.    M.   PiKE  Captain 
The  Hon*''!'.  ist  UStates  Reg».  Infy 

James  Madison, 

Secy.  Dep'.  State 

The    foregoing  letter  has   two    inclosures.     One   is   the    following    form  of 
account : 

"  U.  States  to 

the  Spanish  Govt. —  Dr. 

7th.  April  1807.   To  cash  furnished  on  receipt  to  Cap:  Pike  at  Chihuahua,  $ioiX) 
nth.  June,   07.   To  cash  furnished  Cap:  Pike  at  SK  Antonio,  on  receipt,       200 
To  a  requisition  for  subsistence  of  my  party  in  the  rear  at 

$2^<y^  from to 

*  To   amount   of    five    recepts    worded    in    substance    as 

below — not  exceeding 250 


*_ 


-07. 


I  acknowledged  to  have  been  furnished  by with    .   .   .    mules 

.   .   .  horses  for  the  transport  of  my  party  and  baggage   from to 

The  hire  of  said  beasts  to  be  hereafter  adjusted    between    the 

Gov*,  of  the  U.  States  and  that  of  his  Cath.  Majesty — 

"(Signed)     Z.  Pike. 

"  N.  B.     The  whole  of  those  charges  (the  latter  of  which  I  by  no  means  con- 
ceive the  U  States  under  any  just  obligation  to  discharge)  cannot  if  my  men  have 


LETTER,  SALCEDO  TO   WILKINSON.  815 

refund  the  said  sum  to  the  Sefior  Marquis  de  Cassa  Yrujo, 
I  have  directed  the  formula  of  four  corresponding  and 
quadrupHcate  receipts  for  you  to  sign. 

God  preserve  you  many  years. 

[Signed]     NiMESlo  Salcedo. 
For  the  ist  Lieutenant, 
Montgomery   Pike. 


Art.  7.  Letter,  Salcedo  to  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  /p, 

pp.  S6,  6y.) 

[TRANSLATION.] 

Chihuahua,  April  8th,  1807. 
Excellent  Sir  : 

On  the  i6th  of  February  last,  John  Robinson  appeared 
before  the  governor  of  New  Mexico,  saying  that  he  was 
a  Frenchman,  an  inhabitant  of  St.  Louis,  which  place  he 
left  on  the  15th  of  June  last  year,  with  the  view  of  going  to 
the  country  of  the  Pananas  [Pawnees],  to  make  recoveries 
[of  certain  debts]  ;  that,  having  received  information  that 
his  debtors  had  directed  their  steps  to  said  province  [of 
New  Mexico],  he  had  concluded  to  follow  them,  in  com- 
pany with  15  other  persons,  who  went  for  the  purpose  of 
hunting  on  the  rivers  of  Arcs,'  Arkansaw,  and  Colorado 
(Red  river)  ;  that  in  the  neighboring  mountains  of  the  two 
last  [named  rivers]  his  company  had  left  him,  for  which 
reason  he  saw  himself  under  the  necessity  of  proceeding  to 

recently  left  the  country,  amount  to  more  than  $2000.  1200  of  which  I  only 
pledged  the  faith  of  the  Gov',  for —  Pike  " 

The  other  one  of  the  two  inclosures  is  the  following  memorandum  or  indorse- 
ment of  the  State  Department  : 

"The  account  against  Pike  inadmissible  save  the  $1200  advanced  him  in  Cash 
—and  what  may  have  been  advanced  to  his  men  left  in  Mexico  at  the  rate  of 
$2.^  p.  day— the  Sum  he  asked  for  their  subsistence—  It  appears  to  have  been 
understood  by  Capt  Pike  that  he  was  to  find  subsistence  for  himself  &  Party 
and  that  the  Spanish  Covert  would  meet  the  other  expences  of  his  Journey." 

» Riviere  au  Bois  d'Arc  of  the  French,  as  we  should  say  Bodark,  Bow- 
dark,  or  Bowwood  r.,  meaning  the  Osage.     The  reference  is  to  the  bois  d'arc 


8l6  LETTER,  SALCEDO   TO   WILKINSON. 

the  Yutas  Indians  [Utes],  to  whom  he  exposed  his  situation, 
and  who  accordingly  agreed  to  conduct  him  [to  Santa  Fe]. 

On  the  25th  of  the  same  month  of  February,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  four  days'  march  from  the  town  of  Santa  Fe,  and 
nine  leagues  west  of  its  settlement,  at  the  place  called  the 
Ojocaliente  (Hot  Spring),  near  the  confluence  of  Rio  Grande 
del  Norte  (Great  North  river),  and  that  known  under  the 
name  River  [Rio]  de  los  Conejos  ([River]  of  Rabbits),  a  de- 
tachment of  the  garrison  of  said  province  of  New  Mexico 
met  Montgomery  Pike,  first  lieutenant  of  the  infantry  of  the 
United  States,  with  eight  men  of  the  said  infantry ;  who,  on 
being  given  to  understand  that  he  must  be  conducted  to 
said  town,  consented  to  accompany  them.  It  was  then 
settled  that  two  of  his  [Pike's]  men  should  remain  on  the 
spot  with  half  of  his  Catholic  Majesty's  detachment,  to  wait 
for  six  others  [of  Pike's  men]  who  had  not  yet  arrived  ; 
while  he  proceeded  to  the  governor's,  to  whom  he  declared 
that  his  being  in  that  neighborhood  was  owing  solely  to  his 
having  been  lost,  and  having  mistaken  the  Rio  del  Norte 
for  the  Colorado.  But  this  [Spanish]  officer,  in  compliance 
with  the  orders  of  his  superior  ofificer,  forwarded  the  said 
first  lieutenant  [Pike],  with  the  six  men  of  the  American  army 
and  the  above  mentioned  John  Robinson,  to  this  capital. 

They  arrived  here  on  the  2d  instant,  and  said  officer 
[Pike],  on  being  presented  to  me,  laid  before  me,  in  the 
same  manner  as  he  had  done  to  the  governor  of  Santa  Fe, 
the  papers  relative  to  his  mission,  the  correspondence  he 
had  carried  on  with  your  Excellency  since  it  commenced, 
his  journals,  and  note  books. 

Your  Excellency  is  not  ignorant  of  the  repeated  rep- 
resentations made  by  the  king's  minister  in  the  United 
States,  and  by  the  Marquis  of  Cassa  Calva  while  he  was  in 

or  bowwood,  the  Osage  orange,  Madura  auraniiaca,  a  well-known  tree  of  the 
lower  Mississippi  valley,  whose  wood  was  formerly  in  great  request  for  the  pur- 
pose indicated  in  the  vernacular  name.  It  is  very  thorny,  bears  pruning  well, 
and  has  come  to  be  much  cultivated  for  hedges.  Its  botanical  affinities  are  with 
the  mulberry. 


LETTER,  SALCEDO   TO   WILKINSON.  817 

Louisiana,  summoning'  the  American  government  to  carry 
into  effect  any  projects  of  extending  its  expeditions  into 
territories  unquestionably  belonging  to  his  Majesty.  You 
must  therefore,  without  any  further  observations  or  remarks 
on  my  part,  be  satisfied  that  the  documents  contain  evident, 
unequivocal  proofs  that  an  offense  of  magnitude  has  been 
committed  against  his  Majesty,  and  that  every  individual  of 
this  party  ought  to  have  been  considered  as  prisoners  on 
the  very  spot.  Notwithstanding  such  substantial  and  well- 
grounded  motives  as  would  have  warranted  such  a  measure, 
also  wishing  to  give  the  widest  latitude  to  the  subsisting 
system  of  harmony  and  good  understanding,  and,  above  all, 
being  finally  persuaded  that  your  Excellency  would  take  such 
steps  as  your  judgment  might  suggest  as  best  calculated 
to  prevent  any  bad  consequences  on  the  occasion,  I  have 
concluded  to  keep  in  this  general  government  all  the  papers 
presented  by  Lieutenant  Pike,  and  to  give  him  and  his 
men  full  liberty  to  return  to  your  Excellency,  after  having 
treated  them  with  attention,  and  offered  them  every  assist- 
ance they  stood  in  need  of. 

I  am,  without  reserve,  and  beyond  expression,  your  most 
obedient,  humble,  respectful,  and  faithful  servant,  who 
prayeth  God  may  preserve  your  Excellency  many  years. 

[Signed]  Salcedo. 

General  James  Wilkinson. 


Art.  8.  Inventory  and  Certificate,  Valasco  and  Walker  to 
Pike.     {Orig.  No.  16,  pp.  So-82.) 

[TRANSLATION.] 

Inventory  of  papers  which  [from]  the  lieutenant  of  infan- 
try of  the  United  States  of  America,  Montgomery  Pike,  in 
the  superior  government,  and  [by  the]  commandant  general 

■•  The  meaning  of  the  clause  is  clear,  though  it  may  not  be  obvious  on  its  face, 
owing  to  the  use  of  "  summoning"  in  a  particular  sense  :  compare  Pike's  use  of 
"summons "in  Art.  II,  p.  825.  Agreeably  with  etymology,  "summoning" 
might  be  written  submonition,  on  the  model  of  adinonilion ;  the  radical  mean- 
ing of  these  two  words  is  much  the  same,  both  conveying  the  idea  of  warning, 


8l8  INVENTORY   Oh    PAPERS   SEIZED. 

of  the  internal  provinces  of  New  Spain,  [were  taken]  as 
belonging  to  a  voyage  which  he  executed  from  St.  Louis  up 
[of]  the  Illinois  to  the  population  [settlements]  of  New 
Mexico,  to  visit  the  Indian  nations,  and  reconnoiter  the 
country  and  intermediate  rivers,  as  it  appears  his  expedi- 
tion was  undertaken  by  provision  of  the  government  of  the 
said  United  States  and  the  orders  of  General  Wilkinson  : 

1.  Letter  from  General  Wilkinson  to  Pike,  dated  24th 
June,  1806. 

2.  Another  from  the  same  to  Pike,  18th  July,  1806. 

3.  Another  from  the  same  to  the  same  officer,  19th  July, 
1806. 

4.  Another  from  the  same  to  Pike,  dated  6th  August, 
1806. 

5.  Letter  from  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  his  father,  27th 
October,  1806. 

6.  Another  from  the  same  to  the  same,  28th  October, 
1806. 

7.  Letter  from  Pike  to  General  Wilkinson,  22d  July,  1806. 

8.  Letter  from  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  Lieutenant  Pike, 
26th  October,  1806. 

9.  Proclamation  of  General  Wilkinson,  prohibiting  any 
citizen  of  the  United  States  from  trading  with  the  Indian 
nations  without  his  permission  or  that  of  the  government, 
dated  loth  July,  1805. 

10.  A  letter  from  Charles  Junot,  Agent  for  the  Indians, 
to  General  Wilkinson,  dated  loth  July,  1806. 

11.  Notes  of  Lieutenant  Pike  on  the  voyage  from  New 
Mexico  to  Chihuahua,  of  four  pages. 

12.  A  rough  manuscript  [draught]  of  the  Missouri  and 
Osage  rivers. 

13.  Letter  from  Sergeant  Ballenger  to  General  Wilkinson, 
without  date. 

with  the  implied  force  of  enjoining,  restraining,  etc.  Salcedo  simply  reminds 
Wilkinson  that  the  Spanish  government  had  warned  the  United  States  off  those 
premises,  and  consequently  that  the  latter  should  not  have  carried  into  effect  any 
projects  of,  etc. 


INVENTORY   OF   PAPERS  SEIZED.  819 

14.  Letter  from  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  Pike,  without 
date. 

15.  A  certificate,  in  the  French  language,  of  a  certain 
Baptist  Lamie  [note  ",  p.  388]  found  among  those  nations, 
specifying  his  motive  for  being  tliere. 

16.  A  bundle  of  papers,  in  the  French  language,  which 
contain  notes  on  the  harangues  and  manifestoes  which  Lieu- 
tenant Pike  delivered  to  the  Indian  nations. 

17.  A  passport  of  Lieutenant  Pike  to  the  Indian  Winapi- 
cane,  a  captain  of  the  little  Osage. 

18.  A  small  draught  or  map  of  the  country  which  is  situ- 
ated between  the  Mississippi  and  Santa  Fe,  with  a  descrip- 
tion of  that  town,  and  of  having  met  with  3,000  Camanches. 

19.  A  book,  8vo,  manuscript,  which  contains  the  diary  of 
Lieutenant  Pike,  from  January,  1807,  to  the  2d  March  of 
the  same  year,  when  he  arrived  at  Santa  Fe,  in  75  pages. 

20.  A  book,  4to,  manuscript,  in  pasteboard,  with  copies 
of  letters  to  the  secretary  of  war  and  General  Wilkinson,  and 
various  observations  relative  to  the  commission  of  the  lieu- 
tenant, in  6"]  pages. 

21.  A  manuscript  book,  in  folio,  containing  different  plans 
of  countries,  etc.,  with  a  diary  with  rhumbs,  distances,  and 
worked  observations  and  meteorological  tables,  which  arose 
from  a  revisal  of  the  voyage,  by  the  said  Lieutenant  Pike, 
in  40  pages. 

Don  Francisco  Valasco,  first  officer  of  the  secretaries  of 
the  commandant-generalship  of  the  internal  provinces  of 
New  Spain,  and  Juan  Pedro  Walker  Alferez,'  of  the  company 
of  horse  of  the  royal  presidio  of  Janos: 

We  certify  that  the  lieutenant  of  American  infantry, 
Montgomery  Pike,  when  presented  to  the  commandant 
general  of  the  before  mentioned  provinces,  Don  Nimesio 
Salcedo,  likewise  produced  a  small  trunk  which  he  brought 
with  him  ;  *  and  that,  in  the  presence  of  the  undersigned, 

'  Sic — but  "  Alferez  "  is  not  a  part  of  Walker's  name,  being  his  rank  in  the 
Mexican  cavalry  :  read  "  Walker,  ensign  of,"  etc. 

*  The  want  of  candor  exhibited  in  the  certificate  is  manifest.     It  was  an 


820  CERTIFICATE — LETTER,  PIKE   TO   SALCEDO. 

[he]  opened  [it]  himself,  and  took  out  different  books  and 
papers ;  when,  having  separated  with  his  own  hands,  under 
our  cognizance,  all  that  appeared  to  be,  or  that  he  said  was, 
private,  or  had  no  connection  with  the  voyage,  [he]  de- 
livered the  remainder  to  the  demand  of  the  commandant 
general,  which  [papers  delivered]  were  solely  those  compre- 
hended in  the  foregoing  inventory  which  we  have  formed, 
and  for  the  verification  of  which  we  have  signed  these 
presents  at  Chihuahua,  the   8th  of  April,   1807. 

[Signed]     Francisco  Valasco. 
Juan  Pedro  Walker. 


Art.  g.     Letter,  Pike  to  Salccdo.     {Orig.  No.  14,  pp.  78,  yg.) 

Chihuahua,  April  14th,  1807. 
Sir  : 

On  my  marching  from  Santa  Fe,  Governor  Allencaster 
informed  me  that  my  papers  would  be  considered  as  a 
sacred  deposit  until  my  arrival  at  this  place,  when  your 
Excellency  would  examine  and  take  them  into  consideration. 

When  they  were  examined  and  taken  possession  of,  I 
explained  without  disguise  the  nature  and  contents  of  each, 
conceiving  that  those  only  which  had  any  relation  to  the 
object  of  my  expedition  could  be  interesting,  and  that 
merely  a  copy  of  the  chart  and  a  translation  of  the  ofificial 
papers  would  be  taken.  You  must  be  conscious.  Sir,  that  it 
was  in  my  power  to  have  secreted  or  destroyed  every  trace 
of  my  voyage  and  plans  previous  to  my  arrival  at  Chihua- 
hua; but,  resting  satisfied  that  no  rupture  had  taken  place 
between  his  Catholic  Majesty  and  the  States  I  have  the 
honor  to  serve,  which  would  have  been  a  justification  for 
the  seizure  of  my  papers,  I  preferred  leaving  them  in  statu 
quo,  to  using  that  duplicity  which  in  some  degree  always 
imphcates  the  character  of  a  military  man. 

Admitting  the  country  which  I  explored  to  be  contested 

imbecile  attem])t  to  show  that  all  my  actions  were  voluntary,  and  that  in  the 
delivery  of  my  papers  there  was  no  degree  of  constraint.     [Orig.  note.] 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   SALCEDO.  821 

between  the  two  governments,  each  would  naturally  wish  to 
gain  some  information  as  to  its  geographical  situation,  in 
order  that  they  might  each  form  correct  ideas  as  to  what 
would  be  their  mutual  interests,  founded  on  justice  and  the 
honor  and  dignity  of  the  nation,  in  forming  the  line  of 
demarcation.  This  was  the  view  of  the  United  States  gov- 
ernment in  the  expedition  which  I  had  the  honor  to  com- 
mand ;  the  loss  of  the  geographical  sketches  taken  might  be 
the  occasion  of  a  suspension  of  the  final  line  of  limits,  and 
consequently  the  delay  of  an  amicable  adjustment  of  the 
differences  now  existing  between  the  two  governments. 

Your  Excellency  may  not  have  an  intention  of  detaining 
my  papers,  which  I  had  begun  to  suppose  from  your  return- 
ing only  part  of  them  by  Lieutenant  Walker  ;  in  which  case 
you  will  please  to  excuse  this  intrusion.  But  I  will  add 
that,  if  you  have  it  in  view  to  detain  the  papers,  I  request 
you  will  be  pleased  to  examine  them  with  particular  care. 
You  will  find  that  there  are  letters  from  General  Wilkinson, 
as  well  as  his  son,  to  me ;  also,  from  the  latter  to  his  father 
and  mother ;  and  others  which,  being  by  no  means  of  a 
political  nature,  or  at  least  not  relative  to  the  relations  exist- 
ing between  the  government  of  Spain  and  the  United  States, 
therefore  can  by  no  means  be  interesting  to  your  Excellency. 
The  book  which  contains  my  charts  also  contains  part  of 
the  blotters  of  a  voyage  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi, 
which  I  presume  cannot  be  interesting  to  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernment. 

But,  to  conclude,  I  have  only  to  request  of  your  Excel- 
lency to  know  if  it  is  your  intention  to  detain  my  papers 
now  in  your  possession ;  and  if  so,  that  you  may  cause  me 
to  be  furnished,  or  suffer  me  to  take,  a  copy  of  them,  and 
that  I  may  receive  a  certificate  from  under  your  hand  of 
the  number,  nature,  etc.,  of  the  said  papers,  and  the  reasons 
for  their  seizure  and  detention,  in  order  that  my  govern- 
ment may  be  enabled  to  make  the  proper  application  to  the 
Spanish  court  for  an  explanation.  My  reason  for  applying 
to  your  Excellency  so  early  on  this  subject  is  that,  on  the 


822  LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

arrival  of  my  men  who  are  still  in  the  rear,  I  may  be  pre- 
pared to  march  in  a  short  period  of  time ;  for,  under  the 
present  aspect  of  affairs,  I  feel  conscious  that  I  am  as  anx- 
ious to  arrive  on  the  territories  of  the  United  States  as  your 
Excellency  must  be  for  me  to  quit  the  dominions  of  his 
Catholic  Majesty. 

In  all  events,  I  hope  you  will  believe  me  to  be,  with  the 
highest  sentiments  of  personal  respect, 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 
His  Excellency,  Brigadier-general  Don  Nimesio  Salcedo,  Com- 
manding-general of  the  Interior  Provinces  of  the  kingdom 
of  New  Spain. 


Art.  10.     Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinso7i.     {Orig,  No.  j, 

//•  53-55-) 

Chihuahua,  April  20th,  1807. 
My  Dear  General : 

Never  did  I  sit  down  to  address  you  with  a  heart  so 
oppressed  with  anxiety  and  mortification  ;  but  knowing  the 
uncertainty  which  must  exist  as  to  the  fate  of  myself  and 
party,  I  conceive  it  proper  to  attempt  a  communication, 
although  I  think  it  extremely  uncertain,  owing  to  the 
difficulty  of  the  route,  whether  it  may  ever  come  to  hand, 
or  at  least,  previous  to  my  arrival  at  the  territories  of  the 
United  States,  owing  to  the  various  circumstances  which 
are  not  to  be  communicated  in  a  letter.  I  was  detained  in 
the  mountains  of  Mexico  [?'.  e.,  present  State  of  Colorado] 
until  the  month  of  January,  and  in  February  found  myself 
with  eight  of  my  party  only,  on  the  head  branches  of  the 
Rio  [Grande]  del  Norte,  which  I  then  conceived  to  be  the 
sources  of  the  Red  river,  our  information  making  the  latter 
extend  the  whole  distance  between  the  former  and  the 
Arkansaw,  although  its  sources  are  some  hundred  miles 
below  either  of  the  others. 

Here  I  was  encountered  by  two  officers  and    100  men. 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  823 

who  bore  orders  from  the  governor  of  New  Mexico  to 
cause  me  and  my  party  to  march  to  the  capital  of  said 
province.  His  request  was  in  the  most  polite  style,  and  in 
fact  the  commanding  officer  assured  me  there  was  not  the 
least  constraint,  but  that  his  Excellency  desired  a  confer- 
ence, and  that  I  should  be  conducted  by  the  most  direct 
route  to  the  navigable  part  of  the  Red  river,  whence  I  could 
immediately  descend  to  Nachitoches.  Although  dubious  of 
the  faith  of  the  invitation,  and  in  a  situation  where  I  could 
have  defended  myself  as  long  as  my  provision  lasted,  or 
until  I  might  probably  have  escaped  in  the  night ;  yet, 
knowing  the  pacific  intentions  of  our  government,  and  the 
particular  instructions  of  my  general  as  to  my  conduct  in 
case  of  a  rencounter  with  a  body  of  Spanish  troops,  I 
conceived  it  most  proper  to  comply  with  the  demand  and 
repair  to  Santa  Fe ;  and,  as  the  balance  of  my  party  who 
remained  in  the  mountains  were,  many  of  them,  invalids 
and  not  in  a  situation  to  be  able  to  return,  I  conceived  it 
most  proper  to  leave  orders  for  them  to  follow,  accompa- 
nied by  an  escort  of  Spanish  troops  left  for  that  purpose. 

On  my  arrival  in  Santa  Fe,  his  Excellency  Governor 
Allencaster  informed  me  it  was  necessary  that  I  should 
immediately  march  to  Chihuahua,  Province  of  Biscay,  in 
order  to  present  myself  to  his  Excellency,  Commandant-gen- 
eral N.  Salcedo,  for  further  orders.  This  being  so  different 
from  what  I  had  been  taught  to  expect,  I  demanded  of 
Governor  Allencaster,  in  a  written  communication,  to  know 
if  I  were  to  consider  myself  and  party  as  prisoners  of  war. 
He  replied  in  the  negative.  We  marched  on  the  following 
day,  and  arrived  on  the  2d  instant  at  this  place,  whence,  I 
am  informed  by  the  general,  I  shall  march,  on  the  arrival  of 
the  remainder  of  my  party,  for  Nachitoches. 

I  must  here  acknowledge  myself  and  party  under  infinite 
obligations  to  the  friendship  and  politeness  of  all  the  Spanish 
officers,  and  in  a  particular  manner  to  the  commandant- 
general  of  those  provinces. 

Should  the  politics  of  our  country  make  it  necessary  to 


824  LETTER,  PIKE  TO   WILKINSON. 

augment  the  army  previous  to  my  arrival,  I  hope  the 
general  will  approve  of  my  aspiring  to  a  considerable  pro- 
motion in  the  new  corps.  Should  the  line  of  demarcation 
be  amicably  adjusted  between  the  United  States  and  Spain, 
I  hope  to  obtain  the  appointment  of  one  of  the  commis- 
sioners, as  I  make  bold  to  assert  that,  with  respect  to  the 
arrangements  necessary,  and  knowledge  of  the  country 
through  which  the  line  must  pass,  I  am  better  instructed 
than  any  other  ofificer  of  my  age  in  our  service ;  and,  if 
joined  to  a  colleague  of  profound  astronomical  knowledge, 
we  could  surmount  every  difficulty.  I  likewise  beg  leave 
to  suggest  to  your  Excellency  that  I  conceive  the  informa- 
tion I  hold  to  be  of  considerable  consequence  in  the  deter- 
mination of  the  line  of  limits,  and  that  if  it  be  not  already 
determined  I  can  throw  considerable  light  on  the  subject. 

I  hope  your  Excellency  will  be  pleased  to  forward  orders 
for  me  to  Nachitoches,  informing  me  if  I  am  to  descend  to 
[New]  Orleans  or  proceed  to  the  Federal  City ;  and  if  the 
latter,  permitting  me  to  pass  by  Louisiana,  in  order  to  visit 
and  arrange  the  affairs  of  my  family,  to  whom  I  beg  the 
favor  of  my  general  to  communicate  the  certainty  of  the 
existence  of  myself  and  Dr.  Robinson,  who  begs  to  be 
sincerely  remembered  to  you. 

Please  to  present  my  respectful  compliments  to  your  lady ; 
and  the  doctor's  and  mine  to  James  [Lieutenant  Wilkin- 
son], who,  I  hope,  has  long  ere  this  arrived  in  safety. 

The  general  will  pardon  the  requests  I  have  made  of  him, 
knowing  the  confidence  of  my  heart  in  the  paternal  and 
soldierly  esteem  which  he  has  manifested  for  him  who  has 
the  honor  to  be. 

With  every  sentiment  of  esteem. 
Respect,  and  high  consideration. 
Dear  General, 

Your  obedient  humble  servant, 

[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE. 

His  Excellency, 
General  Wilkinson. 


LETTER,  SALCEDO   TO   PIKE.  825 

Art.  II.  Letter,  Salcedo  to  Pike.     {Orig.  No.  i§,  pp.  yg,  80.) 

[TRANSLATION.] 

Chihuahua,  April  23d,  1807. 
Of  the  papers  connected  with  the  expedition  which  by 
orders  of  the  United  States  government  you  have  made 
from  the  St.  Louis  of  the  Illinois  unto  the  settlements  of 
New  Mexico,  and  which  you  yourself*  separated  from 
those  [others]  which  you  brought  here  and  put  into  my 
hands  the  day  you  arrived  in  this  town,  there  have  been 
formed  an  inventory,  and  a  certificate  respecting  each  of 
them  accompanying  it,  to  you,  and  in  the  office,  the  17th 
current,  for  the  purpose  therein  expressed,  the  judgment  on 
which  remains  for  the  decision  of  the  king,  my  lord,  and  shall 
be  reported  in  the  secret  archives  of  this  captain-generalcy. 
Meditating  that  you  have  indicated,  in  your  official  summons 
to  this  government,  the  greatest  desire  to  arrive  at  the  terri- 
tories of  the  United  States,  [I]  have  resolved  that  you  pre- 
pare to  continue  your  voyage  in  two  or  three  days,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  the  arrangements  necessary  shall  be  made, 
such  as  you,  with  the  people  of  your  expedition,  have 
experienced  until  your  arrival  at  this  place. 

God  preserve  you  many  years. 

[Signed]     NiMESlo  Salcedo. 

Montgomery  Pike,  ist  Lieutenant  of  Infantry. 


Art.  12.  Letter,  Wilkinson  to  Pike.   {Orig.  No.  4,  pp.  55-57-) 

New  Orleans,  May  20th,  1807. 
Dear  Sir  : 

After  having  counted  you  among  the  dead,  I  was  most 
agreeably  surprised  to  find,  by  a  letter  from  General  Sal- 
cedo, received  a  few  days  since,  that  you  were  in  his 
possession,  and  that  he  proposed  sending  you,  with  your 
party,  to  our  frontier  post.     I  lament  that  you  should  lose 

*  See  my  account  of  the  seizure  of  my  papers,  April  1st,  1807.  [Orig.  note. 
Read  Apr.  2d,  and  see  p.  658.] 


826  LETTER,  WILKINSON  TO   PIKE. 

your  papers,  but  shall  rely  much  on  your  memory.  Al- 
though it  was  unfortunate  that  you  should  have  headed 
Red  river,  and  missed  the  object  of  your  enterprise,  yet 
I  promise  myself  that  the  route  over  which  you  have  passed 
will  afford  some  interesting  scenes,  as  well  to  the  statesman 
as  the  philosopher. 

You  will  hear  of  the  scenes  in  which  I  have  been  engaged, 
and  may  be  informed  that  the  traitors  whose  infamous 
designs  against  the  constitution  and  government  of  our 
country  I  have  detected,  exposed,  and  destroyed,  are  vainly 
attempting  to  explain  their  own  conduct  by  inculpating  me. 
Among  other  devices,  they  have  asserted  that  your  and 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  enterprise  was  a  premeditated 
co-operation  with  [Aaron]  Burr.  Being  on  the  wing  for 
Richmond,  in  Virginia,  to  confront  the  arch-traitor  and  his 
host  of  advocates,  I  have  not  leisure  to  commune  with 
you  as  amply  as  I  could  desire.  Let  it  then  sufifice  for  me 
to  say  to  you,  that  of  the  information  you  have  acquired, 
and  the  observations  you  have  made,  you  must  be  cautious, 
extremely  cautious,  how  you  breathe  a  word ;  because 
publicity  may  excite  a  spirit  of  adventure  adverse  to  the 
interests  of  our  government,  or  injurious  to  the  maturation 
of  those  plans  which  may  hereafter  be  found  necessary  and 
justifiable  by  the  government. 

I  leave  Colonel  Gushing  °  in  command  of  the  district, 
with  plenary  powers,  and  have  informed  him  that  you  have 
leave  to  repair  to  St.  Louis  by  the  most  direct  route,  the 
moment  you  have  communicated  to  me  in  duplicate  the 

'  Thomas  Humphrey  Gushing  of  Massachusetts,  a  captain  in  the  Continental 
Army,  became  a  captain  of  the  2d  Infantry,  Mar.  4th,  1791;  he  was  arranged 
to  the  second  sub-Legion  Sept.  4th,  1792  ;  promoted  to  be  a  major  in  the  tirst 
sub-Legion  Mar.  3d,  1793.  and  assigned  to  the  1st  Infantry  Nov.  1st,  1796  ;  he 
acted  as  inspector  of  the  army  from  Feb.  27th,  1797,  to  May  22d,  1798,  and 
became  lieutenant-colonel  of  the  2d  Infantry  April  1st,  1802  ;  he  acted  as 
adjutant  and  inspector-general  from  Mar.  26th,  1802,  to  May  gth,  1807,  was 
promoted  to  the  colonelcy  of  the  2d  Infantry  Sept.  7th,  1805,  to  a  brigadier- 
generalship  July  2d,  1812,  and  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815  ;  he  died 
Oct.  19th,  1822. 


LETTER,  WILKINSON   TO   PIKE.  827 

result  of  your  travels,  voluntary  and  involuntary,  in  relation 
to  clime,  country,  population,  arts,  agriculture,  routes, 
distances,  and  military  defense.  The  president  will  be 
impatient  to  have  whatever  you  have  acquired  ;  to  the  de- 
tailed account  a  sketch  must  be  added,  and  the  original  and 
duplicate  addressed  to  me  at  the  city  of  Washington,  with 
the  least  possible  delay.  You  may  make  up  your  report 
at  Natchitoches,  and  proceed  thence  to  the  Wascheta 
[Washita]  and  thence  to  the  Arkansaw,  or  you  may  descend 
to  Fort  Adams,  and  proceed  thence  to  St.  Louis  by  the 
most  convenient  route.  Colonel  Gushing,  whom  I  leave  in 
command  of  the  district,  has  my  orders  in  your  favor,  and 
will  give  you  every  indulgence  ;  but  as  an  expedition  is  now 
in  motion  up  the  Arkansaw,  to  explore  it  to  its  source  and 
further  northwest,  it  is  highly  important  that  you  should, 
either  in  person  or  by  two  or  three  confidential  men,  send 
forward  to  the  Arkansaw  every  information  which  you  may 
deem  essential  to  the  success  of  the  enterprise.  A  Mr.  Free- 
men [Thomas  Freeman],  under  the  chief  direction  of  Mr. 
[William]  Dunbar  of  Natchez,  has  control  of  this  operation. 
The  escort,  which  consists  of  35  select  non-commissioned 
officers  and  privates,  is  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Wilkin- 
son, seconded  by  Lieutenant  T[homas].  A.  Smith.  This 
detachment,  with  two  boats  suitably  equipped,  will  reach 
Natchez  in  eight  or  ten  days  from  the  present,  and  will  pro- 
ceed with  all  possible  dispatch.  You  will  address  your 
communications  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  who,  after  many 
hardships  and  difficulties,  reached  this  place  about  the  1st 
of  March.  He  has  finished  a  pretty  good  traverse  of  the 
river,  and  his  journal  is  interesting.  I  think  the  present 
party  will  winter  near  the  Arkansaw  Osages,  about  600 
miles  by  the  river  from  the  Mississippi. 

The  president  mentioned  you  and  your  explorations  to 
the  source  of  the  great  river,  in  his  address  to  Congress,  in 
handsome  terms.  I  am  convinced  he  has  a  proper  sense  of 
your  merits,  and  will  do  you  ample  justice.  I  offer  you 
leave  to  go  immediately  to  your  family,  because   I  appre- 


828  LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

hend  it  will  be  most  desirable ;  yet,  if  you  possess  in  your 

information  aught  which  you  may  desire  to  communicate  in 

person,  you  are  at  liberty  to  proceed,  by  the  shortest  route, 

to  the  seat  of  government,  near  which  you  will  find  me,  if 

alive,  three  or  four  months  hence. 

I  pray  you  to  attend  particularly  to   the   injunctions  of 

this   hasty  letter,  and    to   believe   me,  whilst    I    am    your 

general, 

Your  friend, 

[Signed]    James  Wilkinson. 

Captain  Pike,  U.  S.  Army. 


Art.  13.    Letter,  Pike  to  Wilkinson.    {Orig.No.s,pp.37-6j;.) 

Nachitoches,  July  sth,  1807. 
Dear  General : 

Once  more  I  address  you  from  the  land  of  freedom  and 
under  the  banners  of  our  country.  Your  esteemed  favor  of 
the  20th  of  May  now  lies  before  me,  in  which  I  recognize 
the  sentiments  of  my  general  and  friend,  and  will  endeavor, 
as  far  as  my  limited  abilities  permit,  to  do  justice  to  the 
spirit  of  your  instructions. 

I  must  premise  to  your  Excellency  that  my  letter  of  the 
20th  of  April,  dated  at  Chihuahua,  went  through  a  perusal 
by  General  Salcedo,  previous  to  his  forwarding  it. 

That  letter  stated  the  mode  of  my  being  brought  into 
Santa  Fe,  and  I  will  now  state  to  your  Excellency  the  pro- 
ceedings on  the  subject  of  my  papers.  I  will  omit  the  hau- 
teur of  the  reception  given  me  by  Governor  Allencaster,  for 
a  more  particular  communication  ;  it  changed  afterward  to 
extreme  politeness.  Being  under  no  restrictions  previous  to 
arriving  at  Santa  Fe,  I  had  secreted  all  my  papers  which  I 
conceived  it  necessary  to  preserve,  leaving  my  book  of 
charts,  my  orders,  and  such  others  as  should  induce  the 
governor  to  know  me  in  my  proper  character,  and  prevent 
his  suspicions  being  excited  to  a  stricter  inquiry. 

On  examining  my  commission,  orders,  etc.,  he  told  me  to 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  829 

remove  my  trunk  to  my  own  quarters,  and  that  on  the  mor- 
row he   would   converse   with   me   on   the   subject.     I   had 
caused  my  men  to  secrete  my  papers  about  their  bodies,  con- 
ceiving this  safer  than  [leaving  them]  in  the  baggage  ;  but 
in  the  evening,  finding  the  ladies  of  Santa  Fe  were  treating 
them  to  wine,  etc.,  I  was  apprehensive  their  intemperance 
misht  discover  the  secret,  and  took  them  from  all  but  one, 
who  had  my  journal  in  full,  but  who  could  not  be  found, 
and  put  them  in  my  trunk,  conceiving  that  the  inspection 
was   over.     But    next   morning  an   officer,   with    two  men, 
waited  on  me  and  informed  me  that  he  had  come  for  me  to 
visit  the  governor,  and  brought  these  two  men  to  take  up 
my  trunk.     I   immediately   perceived    I   was  outgeneraled. 
On  my  arrival  at  the  governor's  house,  his  Excellency  de- 
manded if  I  had  the  key.     My  reply  was  in  the  affirmative ; 
when  he   observed,  "  It   is  well  "  ;  my  trunk    should    be  a 
sacred  deposit  in  the  charge  of  the  officer  who  would  escort 
me  to  Chihuahua,  for  which  place  I  marched  after  dinner, 
under  the  escort  of  Lieutenant  Don  Facundo  Malgares  and 
65    men.     His  character   I   beg  leave   to   introduce  to   the 
attention  of  your  Excellency  as  that  of  a  European  possess- 
ing all  the  high  sense  of  honor  which  formerly  so  evidently 
distinguished  his  nation,  the  commandant  of  the  600  troops 
who  made  the  expedition  to  the  Pawnees,  an  officer  of  dis- 
tinguished merit,  who  in  his  mode  of  living  fully  justified 
the  pomp  and  style  of  his  actions,  who  outshines  many  of 
the  governors  of  provinces,  and  whom  in  my  future  reports 
I  shall  have  frequent  occasion  to  quote.     He  observed  to 
me  :  "  The  governor  informs  me,  Sir,  your  trunk  is  under 
restrictions;  but  your  word  of  honor  as  a  soldier  that  no 
papers  shall  be  taken   out,  and  you   have   free   ingress,  as 
usual."     I  gave  it,  and  I  presume  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to 
add  it  was  religiously  adhered  to. 

On  our  arrival  at  Chihuahua  the  general  demanded  my 
trunk,  and  on  its  being  opened  and  the  papers  laid  on  the 
table,  he  took  them  in  hand  one  by  one  and  demanded  what 
was  the  purport  of  each,  which  truth  obliged  me  to  declare ; 


830  LETTER,  PIKE   TO  WILKINSON. 

had  I  been  disposed  to  equivocate,  Ensign  Walker,  of  his 
Catholic  Majesty's  service,  who  stood  present  and  assisted 
in  the  examination,  could  have  immediately  detected  the 
fraud ;  also,  his  Excellency  understands  sufficient  of  the 
English  language  to  discover  the  general  purport  of  any 
paper. 

After  going  through  them  in  this  manner  and  separating 
them  into  two  piles,  he  observed  to  me :  "  You  will  leave 
those  papers  for  my  inspection,  and  in  the  meanwhile,  in 
concert   with   Ensign  Walker,  who  will  give  the  Spanish 
translation,  you  will  give  me  a  detailed  account  of  your 
route,    views,    destination,    etc.,   during  which    time   I    will 
examine  the  papers  now  before  me."     With  this  I  complied, 
flattering  myself  that  it  was  his  intention  to  return  me  my 
papers,  by  his  demanding  a  sketch  ;  also,  so  great  was  my 
confidence  in  the  all-protecting  name  of  my  country,  I  con- 
ceived it  was  a  greater  step  than  the  general  would  venture 
to  take,  to  seize  on  the  papers.     But  when  I  had  finished 
the  proposed  sketch  and  presented  it,  and  found  a  still  fur- 
ther delay,  I  addressed  the  general  on  the  subject.     After  a 
few  days,  some  were  returned,  but  I  was  officially  informed 
that  the  remaining  papers  had  been  seized,  but  would  be 
kept  in  the  secret  cabinet  of  that  captain-generalship  until 
the  pleasure  of  his  Catholic  Majesty  should  be  known.     At 
the  same  time  I  was  presented  with  a  certificate  specifying 
the  number  and  contents  of  those  detained,  and  adding  that 
they  were  assorted  by  my  own  hand,  and  voluntarily.     This 
assertion  was  so  contrary  to  truth,  honor,  or  the  line  of  con- 
duct a  general  should  have  pursued  with  a  young  gentle- 
man, that  I  took  the  liberty  of  telling  one  of  the  officers 
who  signed  said   certificate   that   it   was  incorrect.     But  as 
Sergeant  Meek  was  still  in  the  rear  with  nearly  all  my  bag- 
gage, I   took  care  to  give  him   orders  that  none  of   said 
baggage  should  be  opened,  except  by  force  ;   which  will 
evince  that,  although  I  preferred  acting  like  a  gentleman  to 
obliging  General  Salcedo  to  resort  to  rough  treatment,  yet 
that  it  was  not  a  volunteer  surrender  of  my  papers. 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  83 1 

But  the  general  will  please  to  recollect  that  my  journals 
were  saved  at  Santa  Fe,  were  continued,  and  are  entire  to 
this  post ;  for  the  fortunate  circumstance  of  the  doctor's 
having  copied  my  courses  and  distances  through  all  the 
route,  except  an  excursion  we  made  to  the  source  of  the 
river  La  Platte,  unto  the  Spanish  territories,  preserved  them. 
These  will  enable  me  to  exhibit  a  correct  chart  of  the  route, 
although  not  so  minute  as  the  one  seized  on,  which  was 
plotted  daily  by  the  eye  and  angular  observations.  Thus 
the  only  essential  papers  lost  were  my  astronomical  obser- 
vations and  meteorological  tables,  and  a  book  containing 
remarks  on  minerals,  plants,  etc.,  with  the  manners,  popula- 
tion, customs,  etc.,  of  the  savages.  But  the  results  of  the 
former  were  in  part  communicated,  and  probably  my  jour- 
nal may  supply  part  of  the  balance,  while  our  memories 
will  make  the  loss  of  the  latter  of  but  little  consequence. 
While  in  the  Spanish  territories  I  was  forbidden  the  use  of 
pen  and  paper,  notwithstanding  which  I  kept  a  journal, 
made  meteorological  observations,  and  took  courses  and 
distances  from  the  time  I  entered  their  country  until  my 
arrival  at  this  place ;  all  of  which  I  brought  safe  ofif  in  the 
men's  guns,  where  I  finally  secreted  my  papers  without 
detection. 

From  our  unremitting  attention  day  and  night,  the  im- 
mense territory  they  led  us  through,  and  the  long  time  we 
were  in  their  country,  I  make  bold  to  assert  I  have  been 
able  to  collect  a  correct  account  of  their  military  force, 
regular  and  irregular;  also,  important  and  interesting  in- 
formation on  geographical  situations,  political  sentiments 
and  dispositions  of  the  people  of  every  class,  manners,  arts, 
resources,  riches,  revenues,  situation,  value,  and  productions 
of  their  mines,  etc.;  also,  the  annual  revenues  paid  to  Bona- 
parte. Had  we  possessed  as  great  a  knowledge  of  the 
Spanish  language  when  we  entered  the  territories  as  when 
we  left  them,  our  information  would  have  been  nearly  as 
complete  as  I  could  wish  it,  if  sent  expressly  for  the  purpose 
of  acquiring  it,  by  the  open  authority  of  his  Majesty.     But 


832  LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

the  French  language,  in  which  my  communications  were 
sometimes  made,  was  greatly  beneficial. 

By  the  sergeant,  who  is  still  in  the  rear  and  was  never 
suffered  to  join  me,  as  General  Salcedo  conceived  he  would 
probably  procure  some  information  from  him,  which  he 
could  not  if  [the  sergeant  were]  immediately  under  my 
orders,  I  e.xpect  many  other  communications  of  importance 
from  many  individuals  who  promised  to  forward  them  by 
him.  But  I  presume  the  general  has  found  himself  in 
error;  as  I  perceive  by  a  letter  from  him  to  Governor 
Cordero,  the  sergeant  killed  one  of  his'  men,  in  consequence 
of  some  improper  conduct,  and  the  general  accuses  him  of 
great  intractability,  as  he  is  pleased  to  term  it. 

From  the  foregoing  statement  your  Excellency  will  ob- 
serve that  I  yet  possess  immense  matter,  the  results  of  one 
year's  travel  in  countries,  desert  and  populated,  which  have 
both  been  long  the  subject  of  curiosity  to  the  philosopher, 
the  anxious  desires  of  the  miser,  and  the  waking  thoughts 
and  sleeping  dreams  of  the  man  of  ambitious  and  aspiring 
soul — results  which,  in  our  present  critical  situation,  I  do 
conceive  to  be  immensely  important,  and  which  open  a 
scene  for  the  generosity  and  aggrandizement  of  our  coun- 
try, with  a  wide  and  splendid  field  for  harvests  of  honor  for 
individuals.  But  my  papers  are  in  a  mutilated  state,  from 
the  absolute  necessity  I  was  under  to  write  on  small  pieces 
in  the  Spanish  country ;  also,  from  being  injured  in  the  gun- 
barrels,  some  of  which  I  filed  off  three  times  to  take  out  the 
papers.     These  circumstances  make  it  necessary,  in  the  first 

'  It  will  be  observed  that  Pike's  syntax  leaves  the  personal  pronoun  equivocal. 
We  naturally  read  that  Sergeant  Meek  killed  one  of  his  own  men,  i.  e.,  a  man 
of  Pike's  party  ;  and  I  have  been  more  than  once  summonsed,  during  my  editorial 
function,  to  say  who  this  man  was.  But  there  is  no  record  that  I  can  discover, 
and  no  other  intimation  than  the  above  ambiguous  clause,  that  any  man  of  Pike's 
or  Meek's  p.irty  was  killed  by  Meek.  On  the  contrary,  Pike's  final  word  about 
his  men  accounts  for  every  one  of  them  :  see  p.  855,  and  note  there.  In  the 
absence  of  any  further  evidence,  we  must  understand  that  Sergeant  Meek  killed 
one  of  General  Salcedo's  men  ;  and  if  so,  might  easily  be  accused  of  "great 
intractability." 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  833 

place,  to  take  a  rough  copy  as  they  stand  ;  then  it  will  be 
necessary  to  assort  the  matter,  as  military,  political,  moral, 
mercantile,  meteorological,  agricultural,  etc.,  all  now  forming 
an  undigested  mass.  Then,  Sir,  the  combining  each,  the 
plotting,  etc.,  would  take  up  a  time  of  considerable  extent 
for  one  man ;  and  to  make  duplicates  after  they  are  in 
order  could  not  be  done  in  three  months.  The  general 
may  recollect  it  was  nearly  that  period  before  my  reports 
were  completed  last  year,  although  I  was  assisted  by  Mr. 
[Antoine]  Nau  and  the  sergeant-major,  and  sometimes  by 
Lieutenants  [James  B.]  Wilkinson  and  [Henry  Richard] 
Graham."  Also,  with  respect  to  the  Spanish  country,  I 
must  know  the  extent  of  the  objects  in  view,  in  order  to 
embrace  those  points  in  my  reports  ;  and  further,  my  dear 
sir,  my  health  is  by  no  means  the  most  perfect,  my  eyes 
being  so  extremely  weak  that  it  is  almost  impossible  for  me 
to  continue  for  one  hour  with  the  pen  in  my  hand,  and  by 
that  time  I  have  a  considerable  pain  in  my  breast. 

From  those  circumstances  my  general  will  perceive  the 
almost  impracticability  of  my  complying  with  the  contents  of 
his  letter  as  to  duplicate  reports  from  this  place  ;  but  I 
shall  immediately  commence  the  business  of  arranging  and 
digesting  my  papers,  and  will  proceed  with  the  labor  with 
every  perseverance  my  situation  will  permit  until  the  arrival 
of  my  sergeant  and  the  balance  of  the  party,  should  they 
not  be  retarded  more  than  20  days,  when  I  shall  proceed 
immediately  to  St.  Louis,  and  thence  through  Kentucky, 
Virginia,  etc.,  to  the  Federal  City,  making  no  unnecessary 
delay,  and  during  the  whole  of  the  route  prosecuting  my 
business  at  every  leisure  moment.  When  at  Washington,  I 
flatter  myself  with  your  assistance  and  advice.  As  I  propose 
taking  courses,  distances,  etc.,  hence  to   St.  Louis,  it  will 

*  Of  Virginia,  appointed  from  Kentucky  a  second  lieutenant  of  the  3d 
Infantry  Feb.  i6th,  1801,  and  transferred  to  the  2d  Infantry  Apr.  1st,  1802; 
became  a  first  lieutenant  of  the  same  Dec.  20th,  1803.  and  resigned  Jan.  31st, 
1808  ;  was  made  a  captain  of  the  first  Rifles  Mar.  8th,  i8og,  and  appointed 
major  Aug.  I2th,  1814,  but  the  appointment  was  negatived  by  the  Senate  Dec. 
lOth,  1814  ;  he  was  honorably  discharged  June  15th,  1815,  and  died  in  1819. 


834  LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON. 

be  making  the  tour  of  the  greatest  part  of  Louisiana, 
crossing  the  main  rivers  at  different  points.  I  am  certain 
that  from  the  survey  of  the  Missouri  by  Captains  Lewis 
and  Clark,  my  own  of  the  Mississippi,  Lieutenant  Wilkin- 
son's of  the  lower  Arkansaw,  which  river  I  surveyed  to  its 
sources,  and  Mr.  Dunbar's  of  Red  river,  can  be  formed  the 
completest  survey  of  Louisiana  ever  yet  taken. 

As  to  the  instruments  I  had  with  me  I  wish  the  general 
to  inform  me  in  what  light  they  stood,  as  most  of  them 
were  ruined  in  the  mountains  by  the  falling  of  the  horses 
from  precipices,  etc.,  and  I  left  an  order  at  Chihuahua  for 
the  sergeant  to  sell  them  at  a  certain  price,  as  the  addition 
of  a  land  carriage  of  500  leagues  would  not  add  to  their 
benefit."  Baroney,  if  alive,  is  with  my  sergeant ;  he  has 
proved  a  noble  fellow  in  his  line,  and  I  beg  liberty  to 
recommend  him  to  some  appointment  near  the  Kans,  should 
any  offer.  I  must  further  add  the  following  anecdote  of 
my  men,  in  whose  breasts  lay  the  whole  secret  of  my 
papers,  and  whom  I  frequently,  when  in  the  Spanish  terri- 
tories, was  obliged  to  punish  severely  for  outrages  com- 
mitted in  a  state  of  intoxication,  yet  who  never  once  offered, 
or  showed  a  disposition  to  discover  it.  It  is  certain  they 
knew  instant  death  would  follow  ;  still,  their  fidelity  to  their 
trust  is  remarkable.  I  have  charged  them  as  to  communi- 
cations, and  shall  dispose  of  them  in  such  a  manner  as  not 
to  put  it  in  their  power  to  give  things  much  publicity. 

Dr.  Robinson  has  accompanied  me  the  whole  route,  is 
still  with  me,  and  I  take  pleasure  in  acknowledging  I  have 
received  important  services  from  him,  as  my  companion  in 
dangers  and  hardships,  counselor  in  difficulties,  and  one 
to  whose  chemical,  botanical,  and  mineralogical  knowledge 
the  expedition  is  greatly  indebted — in  short.  Sir,  he  is  a 
young  gentleman  of  talents,  honor,  and  perseverance,  pos- 
sessing, in  my  humble  opinion,  a  military  turn  of  mind,  and 

•  That  is,  Captain  Pike  wishes  to  know  how  he  is  to  account  for  instruments 
which  were  damaged,  or  which  he  had  ordered  to  be  sold,  to  prevent  further 
injury  on  a  long  march. 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   WILKINSON.  835 

would  enter,  I  believe,  in  case  of  an  augmentation  of  the 
army,  if  he  could  obtain  a  rank  above  a  subaltern. 

I  hope  the  general  will  be  pleased  to  have  my  copies 
forwarded  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  so  that  I  can  com- 
mand the  use  of  them  at  Washington  ;  also  all  my  letters 
written  him  during  the  expedition,  as  they  contain  informa- 
tion I  wish  to  refer  to,  and  the  copies  were  seized.  Dr. 
[John]  Sibley  has  informed  me  that  the  expedition  up  the 
Arkansaw  is  suspended,  which  supersedes  the  necessity  of 
my  sending  the  express  ordered. 

I  congratulate  the  general  on  the  safe  arrival  of  Lieuten- 
ant Wilkinson,  and  am  sorry  to  hear  of  the  difficulties  he 
encountered.  I  have  been  obliged  to  draw  money  of  the 
Spanish  government,  which  I  have  to  pay  to  their  ambas- 
sador at  Washington.  I  supported  those  of  my  men  who 
were  with  me  all  the  time  in  the  Spanish  country.  Being 
separated  from  my  baggage  and  never  permitted  to  have  it 
join  me,  and  having  been  presented  to  the  commandant- 
general  in  a  blanket  cappot,"  I  was  under  the  necessity  of 
going  to  very  considerable  expense  to  support  what  I  con- 
sidered not  only  my  own  honor,  but  the  dignity  of  our 
army.  This,  when  a  captain's  pay  is  $3,400  per  annum,  was 
a  ruinous  thing  to  my  finances  ;  but  I  hope  it  may  be  taken 
into  due  consideration. 

After  making  myself  pretty  perfect  in  the  French  lan- 
guage, I  have  obtained  such  a  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  as 
to  make  me  confident  in  asserting,  in  three  or  four  years  I 
will  with  ease  make  myself  sufficiently  master  of  the  latter, 
Italian,  and  Portuguese,  to  read  them  all,  and  speak  and 
write  Spanish.  The  doctor  has  even  exceeded  me  in  that 
point.  I  mention  this  to  the  general,  as  I  know  the  interest 
he  takes  in  the  improvement  of  his  military  protdg^. 

"•  That  is,  F.  capote,  some  sort  of  surtout,  overcoat,  or  cloak,  constantly  con- 
founded with  F.  capot,  meaning  hood.  Among  the  Canadian  voyageurs  and 
other  French  in  America,  capole  was  the  most  general  name  of  any  such  outer 
garment.  It  constantly  occurs,  for  example,  in  annals  of  the  fur-trade  of  the 
Northwest,  capotes  being  made  of  several  regulation  sizes  and  styles,  for  barter 
with  the  Indians,  as  well  as  for  wear  of  the  men  of  the  N.  W.  Company. 


836  LETTER,  PIKE  TO   WILKINSON. 

We  heard  in  the  Spanish  dominions  of  the  convulsions  of 
the  western  country,  originating  in  Mr.  Burr's  plans,  and 
that  you  were  implicated ;  sometimes  that  you  were  ar- 
rested, sometimes  superseded,  etc.  Those  reports,  although 
I  never  credited  them,  gave  me  great  unhappiness,  as  I 
conceived  that  the  shafts  of  calumny  were  aimed  at  your 
fame  and  honor,  in  a  foreign  country  where  these  had 
hitherto  stood  high  and  been  revered  and  respected  by 
every  class.  At  St.  Antonio  Colonel  Cordero  informed  me 
of  the  truth  of  the  statement  \_t.  e.,  falsity  of  those  reports], 
which  took  a  load  from  my  breast  and  made  me  compara- 
tively happy  ;  I  hope  ere  long  the  villainy  will  be  unmasked, 
and  malignity  and  slander  hide  their  heads.  The  before 
mentioned  gentleman  sent  you  by  me  a  box  of  Spanish 
chocolate,  which  I  shall  forward  to  Colonel  Cushing.  Gov- 
ernor Herrara  said  the  maliciousness  of  the  world  was  such 
as  to  forbid  his  writing,  but  begged  to  be  sincerely  remem- 
bered to  you.  A  letter  addressed  to  me  at  Cincinnatti,  Ohio, 
may  possibly  reach  me  on  my  route,  when  I  hope  to  receive 
your  approbation  of  my  conduct.  Many  letters  written  to 
me,  addressed  to  this  place,  have  been  secreted  or  destroyed  ; 
possibly  the  general  can  give  me  a  hint  on  the  subject. 

Those  ideas  have  made  a  deep  impression  on  my  mind, 
and  did  not  an  all-ruling  passion  sway  me  irresistibly  to 
the  profession  of  arms  and  the  paths  of  military  glory,  I 
would  long  since  have  resigned  my  sword  for  the  rural  cot, 
where  peace,  health,  and  content  would  at  least  be  our 
inmates,  should  not  our  brows  be  crowned  with  laurel. 

I  must  now  conclude,  as  this  letter  has  far  exceeded  the 
bounds  proposed  when  commenced  ;  but  the  effusions  of 
my  heart  on  its  contents  are  such  that  I  could  not  limit 
them  to  a  more  contracted  space.  Excuse  my  scrawl,  as  I 
am  entirely  out  of  practice,  but  believe  me  to  be, 
Dear  General, 

With  high  respect  and  esteem, 
Your  obedient  servant. 

General  Wilkinson.        [Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE,  Captain. 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   SALCEDO.  837 

Art.  14.     Letter,  Pike  to  Salccdo.     {Orig.  No.  18,  pp.  83-85) 

Natchitoches,  August  20th,  1807. 
Sir  : 

Previous  to  my  departure  from  Chihuahua,  we  had 
entered  so  fully  into  the  subject  of  the  seizure  of  my 
papers,  that  I  should  never  have  made  another  appeal  until 
I  made  one  through  our  government  to  the  ambassador  of 
his  Catholic  Majesty,  had  I  not  received  orders  to  that 
effect ;  it  not  being  known,  at  the  time  those  instructions 
were  given,  that  the  propriety  of  the  seizure  had  been  con- 
tested between  your  Excellency  and  myself.  But  as  you 
have  now  had  time  fully  to  reconsider  the  business,  it  may 
not  appear  in  the  same  light  that  it  did  when  I  had  the 
honor  to  address  you  before.  Your  Excellency  may  be 
induced  to  conceive  that  the  measure  of  seizing  my  notes, 
plans,  meteorological  and  astronomical  observations,  etc., 
for  parts  of  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Osage,  Kans,  and 
Arkansaw  rivers — waters  acknowledged  by  the  Spanish 
government  to  be  within  the  known  territories  of  the 
United  States— may  not  be  justifiable.  Whatever  may  be 
your  opinion  on  those  subjects,  I  am  at  an  entire  loss  to 
conceive  how,  and  upon  what  principle,  you  could  involve 
in  that  seizure  letters  from  individuals  to  individuals,  the 
contents  of  which  could  in  no  wise  be  interesting  to  the 
Spanish  government. 

I  have  therefore  once  more  to  appeal  to  your  Excellency, 
with  the  hope  that  the  time  you  have  had  for  deliberation 
may  induce  you  to  conceive  it  proper,  and  but  an  act  of 
justice,  to  deliver  up  the  papers  seized  at  Chihuahua  ;  and 
hope  your  Excellency  will  have  the  goodness  to  address 
them  to  me  in  a  packet,  to  the  care  of  the  commanding 
officer  of  this  place. 

If  the  continuation  of  an  amicable  understanding  between 
the  two  nations  be  an  object  of  estimation  in  the  mind  of 
your  Excellency,  the  final  demarcation  of  limits  must  be 
considered  as  the  first  great  step  to  be  taken  toward  its 
accomplishment.     To  enable  my  government  to  form  a  cor- 


838  LETTER,  PIKE  TO   SALCEDO. 

rect  idea  on  that  subject,  it  was  requisite  they  should  be 
well  acquainted  with  the  geographical  situation  of  the  heads 
of  the  Arkansaw  and  Red  rivers.  The  former  part  of  this 
[requirement]  I  had  accomplished,  and  could  with  all  ease 
have  carried  the  remaining  part  of  that  object  into  execu- 
tion, after  discovering  my  mistake  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  for 
the  Red  river,  had  I  been  permitted  by  the  governor  of 
New  Mexico.  Instead  of  which,  I  was  hurried  through  the 
country  to  Chihuahua,  without  having  time  given  for  the 
absent  part  of  my  party  and  baggage  to  join  me ;  by  which 
means  I  was  obliged  to  appear  in  a  garb  and  manner 
entirely  incompatible  with  the  rank  I  have  the  honor  to 
hold,  and  in  some  degree  an  indignity  [was  thus  offered]  to 
the  country  whose  commission  I  bear.  To  add  to  my 
mortification,  I  was  then  deprived  of  the  information  I  had 
obtained  at  the  risk  of  our  lives,  and  the  suffering  of  un- 
known miseries.  The  information  contained  in  my  notes 
was  not  only  of  a  geographical  nature,  but  also  such  as 
would  enable  the  executive  of  the  United  States  to  take 
some  steps  to  ameliorate  the  barbarous  state  of  various 
savage  tribes  whom  I  visited ;  and,  I  may  be  permitted  to 
add,  would  have  added  in  some  small  degree  to  the  acquire- 
ment of  science,  which  is  for  the  general  benefit  of  makind. 

When  I  left  Chihuahua,  I  was  informed  that  my  sergeant 
and  party  were  detained  near  the  place,  in  order  that  they 
should  not  be  permitted  to  join  me,  [and  to  the  end]  that 
by  a  separate  examination  they  might  be  intimidated  to 
make  a  declaration  to  justify  the  conduct  observed  toward 
us.  This  I  am  conscious  must  have  failed  ;  but  I  am  at  an 
entire  loss  to  conceive  why  they  should  have  been  detained 
until  this  time,  when  your  Excellency  assured  me  they 
should  follow  immediately.  Their  detention  has  been  of 
considerable  private  injury  to  myself,  and  an  insult  to  my 
government. 

When  I  marched  from  Chihuahua,  your  Excellency 
officially  informed  me  that  everything  had  been  prepared  for 
my  transport  to  our  lines.     I  was  much  surprised  to  have  to 


LETTER,  PIKE   TO   SALCEDO.  839 

pay  for  the  hire  of  horses,  etc.,  demanded  of  me  at  the 
first  place  where  we  changed  our  escorts,  as  I  neither  con- 
ceived it  just  that  I  should  pay  for  an  involuntary  tour 
I  had  taken  through  your  territories,  nor  was  I  prepared  to 
do  it ;  but  as  your  officers  were  responsible,  and  gave  their 
receipts  for  the  transport,  and  from  the  orders  received  by 
Captain  Viana  at  Nacogdoches,  I  was  obliged  to  hire  beasts 
to  take  me  to  Natchitoches,  although  an  escort  of  your 
troops  were  furnished.     [See  note  ^  p.  814]. 

I  here  with  the  greatest  pleasure  embrace  the  opportu- 
nity of  acknowledging  the  polite  treatment  I  received  from 
your  officers  in  general  on  my  route,  but  in  particular  from 
Colonels  Cordero  and  Herrara,  Captains  Barelo  and  Viana, 
and  Lieutenant  Malgares  ;  to  all  of  whom  it  would  be  my 
greatest  pleasure  to  have  it  in  my  power  to  return  the 
compliment. 

Will  your  Excellency  do  me  the  honor  to  present  my 
high  respects  to  your  lady,  and  my  compliments  to  Mr. 
Truxillo  and  Father  Rocus. 

I  am,  Sir, 

With  the  most  profound  consideration, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
[Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE,  Captain. 
His  Excellency, 

Governor  Salcedo. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

CONGRESSIONAL    REPORT  AND    ACCOMPANYING 
DOCUMENTS.' 

{Orig.  No.  6,  pp.  64-6S,  and  No.  ij,  pp.  73-77.) 

The  committee  of  the  House  of  Representatives  of  tlie  Congress 
of  the  United  States,  to  whom  %vas  referred  the  resolution 
to  inquire  whether  any,  and  if  any,  what  compensation 
ought  to  be  made  to  Captain  Zebulon  M.  Pike,  and  his  com- 
panions, for  their  services  in  exploring  the  Mississippi  river, 
in  their  late  expedition  to  the  sources  of  the  Osage,  Arkan- 
saw  and  La  Platte  rivers,  and  in  their  tour  through  New 
Spain,  report  : 

That  it  appears  by  the  documents  accompanying  this 
report,  that  the  objects  of  each  of  the  exploring  expedi- 
tions, together  with  the  instructions  for  executing  them, 
were  communicated  to  and  approved  by  the  president  of 
the  United  States ;  that  the  conduct  of  Captain  Pike,  in 
each  of  the  expeditions,  also  met  with  the  approbation  of 
the  president,  and  that  the  information  obtained  and  com- 
municated to  the  executive  on  the  subjects  of  his  instruc- 
tions,   and    particularly    in    relation    to    the    source    of  the 

'  This  chapter,  which  appears  to  be  a  number  of  disjointed  pieces,  whose 
connection  is  not  obvious,  is  really  all  of  a  part,  being  a  certain  Congressional 
matter.  It  is  easily  traced  to  its  source  in  American  State  Papers,  as  the  set 
of  documents  which  Pike  brought  to  bear  on  Congress  for  legislative  action  in 
his  case,  when  he  was  trying  to  secure  some  appropriation  to  recompense  him- 
self and  his  companions  for  what  they  had  undergone  and  accomplished  during 
his  two  expeditions.  Barring  the  way  in  which  it  was  botched  in  this  book,  Nos. 
6  and  13  are  substantially  the  same  as  Doc.  No.  259  of  the  2d  Session  of  the  loth 
Congress,  being  the  report  of  a  committee  laid  before  the  Ho.  Reps.  Dec.  16th, 
1808,  with  accompanying  papers,  and  as  such  will  be  found  printed  in  American 
State  Papers,  foUo,  Washington,  Gales   and  Seaton,  1834,   pp.  942-944.     The 

840 


CONGRESSIONAL  REPORT.  841 

Mississippi  and  the  natives  in  that  quarter,  and  the  country 
generally,  as  well  on  the  Upper  Mississippi  as  that  between 
the  Arkansaw  and  the  Missouri,  and  on  the  borders  of  the 
latter  extensive  river  to  its  source,  and  the  country  adjacent, 
is  highly  interesting  in  a  political,  geographical,  and  his- 
torical view ;  and  that  although  no  special  encouragement 
was  given  to  the  individuals  who  performed  these  laborious 
and  dangerous  expeditions,  yet  it  was  but  reasonable  for 
them,  should  they  fortunately  succeed  in  the  objects,  to  expect 
some  reward  from  government ;  that  the  zeal,  perseverance, 
and  intelligence  of  Captain  Pike,  as  commander,  have  been 
meritorious,  and  the  conduct  of  the  individuals  generally 
who  composed  the  parties  respectively,  has  been  faithful, 
and  the  exertions  arduous.  The  committee  therefore  are 
of  opinion  that  compensation  ought  to  be  made  by  law  to 
Captain  Pike  and  his  companions. 

same  volume  contains,  on  p.  719,  Doc.  No.  248  of  the  1st  Session  of  the  loth 
Congress,  being  a  previous  report  of  a  committee,  communicated  by  John 
Montgomery,  chairman,  to  the  Ho.  Reps.,  Mar.  10th,  i8o8.  The  same  volume 
also  contains,  on  p.  463,  Doc.  No.  212  of  the  2d  Session  of  the  gth  Congress,  a 
Report  on  Exploration  of  Western  Waters,  communicated  by  Mr.  Alston  to  the 
Ho.  Reps.,  Dec.  22d,  1806,  mentioning  Lewis  and  Clark,  Pike,  and  Freeman, 
and  recommending  an  annual  appropriation  for  the  purpose  of  such  explora- 
tions. But  none  of  these  bills  passed  or  became  a  law,  though  in  Pike's  own 
case  they  were,  as  we  see,  entirely  favorable  to  his  claim  for  extra  remuner- 
ation. The  case  was  reopened  by  Pike's  widow,  many  years  after  his  death  ; 
but  nothing  ever  came  of  it.  This  seems  hard,  especially  as  Lewis  and  Clark 
and  their  men  were  well  rewarded  by  Congressional  legislation  ;  but  acts  of  Con- 
gress are  as  inscrutable  as  the  ways  of  Providence,  in  any  question  of  right  or 
wrong.  As  to  the  composition  of  this  chapter,  see  note  ',  p.  807,  and  observe 
that  we  have  ;  (i)  The  Report  of  the  Congressional  Committee  of  which  Mr. 
Montgomery  was  chairman,  recommending  an  appropriation.  (2)  A  letter 
from  the  Secretary  of  War  to  this  chairman,  inclosing  copies  of  instructions 
Pike  received  from  Wilkinson  for  each  of  his  expeditions.  (3)  A  copy  of 
one  of  these  instructions,  namely,  for  the  Mississippi  voyage,  but  no  copy  of 
the  other  which  ought  to  appear  here — for  the  reason,  no  doubt,  that  Pike  had 
put  it  already  in  his  book,  as  a  sort  of  preface  to  Pt.  2  :  see  note  ',  p.  562. 
Both  or  neither  of  these  instructions  should  have  come  here.  (4)  Dearborn's 
complimentary  letter  to  Pike.  (5)  Pike's  return  of  men,  etc.,  or  roster  of  his 
two  parties,  furnished  for  the  information  of  Congress  upon  the  question  of 
who  were  the  persons  for  whom  reward  was  claimed. 


842  LETTER,  DEARBORN  TO   MONTGOMERY. 

[accompanying  documents.] 

War  Department,  Dec.   7th,  1808. 

Sir: 

I  herewith  inclose  copies  of  the  instructions  to  Lieutenant 
Pike,  for  the  government  of  his  conduct  on  the  two  explor- 
ing expeditions  alluded  to  in  your  letter ;  and  likewise  lists 
of  the  names  of  the  men  composing  those  parties.  You 
will  perceive  that  the  instructions  were  given  by  General 
Wilkinson  ;  the  objects,  however,  of  each  party,  together 
with  the  instructions,  were  communicated  to  and  approved 
by  the  president  of  the  United  States. 

Although  no  special  encouragement  was  given  to  the  indi- 
viduals who  performed  these  laborious  and  dangerous  expe- 
ditions, yet  it  was  but  reasonable  for  them,  should  they 
fortunately  succeed  in  their  objects,  to  expect  a  liberal 
reward  from  the  government ;  and  as  there  can  be  no  reas- 
onable doubt  of  the  zeal,  perseverance,  and  intelligence  of 
the  commander,  or  of  the  faithful  conduct  and  arduous 
exertions  of  the  individuals  generally,  composing  the  respec- 
tive parties,  it  may,  I  trust,  be  presumed  that  no  objection 
will  be  opposed  to  a  reasonable  compensation  for  such 
meritorious  services. 

I  am  very  respectfully.  Sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

H.  Dearborn. 

[Secretary  at  War.] 

Hon.  J.  Montgomery,  Chairman,  etc. 


Headquarters,  St.  Louis,  July  30th,  1805. 
Sir: 

Having  completed  your  equipments,  you  are  to  pro- 
ceed up  the  Mississippi  with  all  possible  diligence,  taking 
the  following  instructions  for  your  general  government, 
which  are  to  yield  to  your  discretion  in  all  cases  of 
exigency. 


INSTRUCTIONS,  WILKINSON   TO   PIKE.  843 

You  will  please  to  take  the  course  of  the  river,  and  cal- 
culate distances  by  time,  noting  rivers,  creeks,  highlands, 
prairies,  islands,  rapids,  shoals,  mines,  quarries,  timber, 
water,  soil,  Indian  villages  and  settlements,  in  a  diary,  to 
comprehend  reflections  on  the  winds  and  weather. 

It  is  interesting  to  government  to  be  informed  of  the 
population  and  residence  of  the  several  Indian  nations,  of 
the  quantity  and  species  of  skins  and  furs  they  barter  per 
annum,  and  their  relative  price  to  goods ;  of  the  tracts  of 
country  on  which  they  generally  make  their  hunts,  and  the 
people  with  whom  they  trade. 

You  will  be  pleased  to  examine  strictly  for  an  intermedi- 
ate point,  between  this  place  and  the  Prairie  des  Chiens, 
suitable  for  a  military  post,  and  also  on  the  Ouiscousing, 
near  its  mouth,  for  a  similar  establishment;  and  will  obtain 
the  consent  of  the  Indians  for  their  erection,  informing  them 
that  they  are  intended  to  increase  their  trade  and  ameliorate 
their  condition. 

You  will  proceed  to  ascend  the  main  branch  of  the  river 
until  you  reach  the  source  of  it,  or  the  season  may  forbid 
your  further  progress  without  endangering  your  return 
before  the  waters  are  frozen  up. 

You  will  endeavor  to  ascertain  the  latitude  of  the  most 
remarkable  places  in  your  route,  with  the  extent  of  the 
navigation  and  the  direction  of  the  different  rivers  which 
fall  into  the  Mississippi,  and  you  will  not  fail  to  pro- 
cure specimens  of  whatever  you  may  find  curious,  in  the 
mineral,  vegetable,  or  animal  kingdoms,  to  be  rendered 
at  this  place. 

In  your  course  you  are  to  spare  no  pains  to  conciliate  the 
Indians  and  to  attach  them  to  the  United  States,  and  you 
may  invite  the  great  chiefs  of  such  distant  nations  as  have 
not  been  at  this  place,  to  pay  me  a  visit. 

Your  own  good  sense  will  regulate  the  consumption  of 
your  provisions,  and  direct  the  distribution  of  the  trifling 
presents  which  you  may  carry  with  you,  particularly 
your  flags. 


844  LETTER,  DEARBORN   TO   PIKE. 

I  wish  you  a  speedy,  pleasant,  and  safe  tour,  and  am.  Sir, 
with  sentiments  of  respect  and  esteem, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]  jAMES  WILKINSON. 
P.  S.  In  addition  to  the  preceding  orders,  you  will  be 
pleased  to  obtain  permission  from  the  Indians  who  claim  the 
ground,  for  the  erection  of  military  posts  and  trading-houses 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Pierre,  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
and  every  other  critical  point  which  may  fall  under  your 
observation  ;  these  permissions  to  be  granted  in  formal  con- 
ferences, regularly  recorded,  and  the  ground  marked  off. 

[Signed]     J.  W. 
Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike, 

ist  Regt.  Infantry. 


War  Department,  Feb.  24th,  1808. 
Sir  : 

In  answer  to  your  letter  of  the  22d  instant,  I  can  with 
pleasure  observe,  that  although  the  two  exploring  expedi- 
tions you  have  performed  were  not  previously  ordered  by 
the  president  of  the  United  States,  there  were  frequent 
communications  on  the  subject  of  each  between  General 
Wilkinson  and  this  department,  of  which  the  president  of  the 
United  States  was  from  time  to  time  acquainted  ;  and  it  will 
be  no  more  than  what  justice  requires  to  say  that  your  con- 
duct, in  each  of  those  expeditions,  met  the  approbation  of 
the  president ;  and  that  the  information  you  obtained  and 
communicated  to  the  executive,  in  relation  to  the  source  of 
the  Mississippi  and  the  natives  in  that  quarter,  and  the  coun- 
try generally,  as  well  on  the  Upper  Mississippi  as  that 
between  the  Arkansaw  and  the  Missouri,  and  on  the  borders 
of  the  latter  extensive  river  to  its  source  and  the  country 
adjacent,  has  been  considered  highly  interesting  in  a  polit- 
ical, geographical,  and  historical  view.  And  you  may  rest 
assured  that  your  services  are  held  in  high  estimation  by  the 
president  of  the  United  States ;  and  if  any  opinion  of  my 


SKETCH   OF   THE   ARKANSAW  JOURNEY.  845 

own  can  afford  you  any  satisfaction,  I  very  frankly  declare 
that  I  consider  tfie  public  much  indebted  to  you  for  the  en- 
terprising, persevering,  and  judicious  manner  in  which  you 
have  performed  them. 

I  am,  very  respectfully.  Sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

[Signed]     H.  Dearborn. 

[Secretary  at  War.] 
Captain  Zebulon  M.  Pike. 


SketcJi.  of  a  71  Expedition  made  from  St.  Louis,  to  explore  the 
intertial  parts  of  Louisiana,  by  order  of  his  Excellency, 
General  James  Wilkinson.     {Orig.  No.  ij,  pp.  JJ-JJ.) 

I  embarked  at  Belle  Fontaine,  on  the  Missouri,  near  its 
confluence  with  the  Mississippi,  with  a  command  of  one 
lieutenant,  one  doctor  (a  volunteer),  two  sergeants,  one  cor- 
poral, 17  [16]  privates,  and  one  interpreter;"  having  under 
my  charge  eight  or  ten  Osage  chiefs  who  had  recently 
returned  from  a  visit  to  the  city  of  Washington,  together 
with  about  40  men,  women,  and  children  of  the  same  nation, 
redeemed  from  captivity  from  another  Indian  nation  ;  and 
two  Pawnees  who  had  likewise  been  to  the  city  of  Washing- 
ton [making  a  total  of  51  Indians]. 

We  ascended  the  Missouri  river  to  the  river  of  the  Osage, 
up  which  we  ascended  to  the  Osage  towns,  and  arrived  on 
or  about  the  i8th  of  August  [p.  385],  and  delivered  to  their 
nation  in  safety  their  chiefs,  women,  and  children,  with 
speeches  to  the  nation. 

'  This  roster  is  at  variance  with  that  given  in  the  itinerary,  p.  358,  where  it 
stands  one  lieutenant  (Wilkinson),  one  doctor  (Robinson,  who  was  the  volun- 
teer), two  sergeants  (Ballenger  and  Meek),  one  corporal  (Jackson),  16  privates 
(Boley,  Bradley,  Brown,  Carter.  Dougherty,  Gorden,  Huddleston,  Kennerman, 
Menaugh,  Miller,  Mountjoy,  Roy,  Smith,  Sparks,  Stoute,  Wilson),  and  one 
interpreter  (Vasquez).  Compare  note  ',  pp.  358-360,  and  note  '",  p.  510. 
Numerous  other  slips  in  this  sketch,  notably  of  dates,  indicate  that  it  was 
written  from  memory. 


846  SKETCH   OF  THE   ARKANSAW  JOURNEY. 

Here  I  remained  making  astronomical  observations,  and 
preparing  for  my  march  by  land,  until  the  ist  of  September, 
when  we  took  our  departure  for  the  Pawnee  Republic,  ac- 
companied by  some  Osage  chiefs,  who  were  deputed  by 
their  nation  to  form  a  treaty  of  peace  and  amity  with  the 
nation  of  the  Kans  with  whom  they  were  then  at  war, 
under  the  auspices  of  the  United  States.  I  arrived  at  the 
Pawnee  Republic  about  the  25th  of  said  month  [p.  409], 
where  I  caused  to  be  held  a  conference  between  the  Osage 
and  Kans  chiefs,  and  mediated  a  peace  for  the  two  nations. 
Having  held  councils  with  the  Pawnees,  made  astronomical 
observations,  etc.,  I  marched  from  the  said  village  on  the 
7th  of  October,  and  arrived  at  the  Arkansaw  on  the  nth 
[read  15th]  of  said  month,  where  we  remained  until  the 
28th,  preparing  canoes,  etc.,  for  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  who 
descended  the  said  river,  with  one  sergeant,  six  men,  and 
two  Osage  Indians.'  During  my  stay  at  said  river,  I  like- 
wise made  astronomical  observations. 

On  the  said  day  I  marched  with  the  remainder  of  the 
party  up  the  Arkansaw.  Nothing  occurred  worthy  of  note 
until  about  the  middle  [on  the  22d]  of  November,  when  we 
met  a  party  of  Pawnees,  of  60  warriors,  who  were  returning 
from  an  expedition  against  the  Kayaways.  At  first  our  con- 
ference was  of  the  most  friendly  nature,  and  I  made  them  some 
-small  presents  ;  but  as  they  commenced  to  steal  and  plunder 
whatever  they  could  with  impunity,  we  were  finally  obliged  to 
take  to  our  arms,  and  were  on  the  point  of  coming  to  hos- 
tilities, when  the  Pawnees  retired,  and  we  pursued  our  march. 

We  arrived  where  the  Arkansaw  enters  the  mountains,  on 
the  4th  or  5th  [5th]  of  December,  where  we  remained  until 
the  9th  [loth],  searching  for  the  route  across  the  mountains, 
when  we  marched  by  a  trace  which  we  discovered,  leaving 
the  main  Arkansaw  to  our  left.     Much  to  our  astonishment 

'  It  appears  from  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  own  report  that  he  had  but  five  men 
with  him,  the  sergeant  and  four  privates.  Pike's  enumeration  of  "  six  men  " 
besides  the  sergeant  includes  the  two  Osages,  whom  he  thus  counts  twice,  to  an 
aggregate  of  nine  persons. 


SKETCH   OF  THE  ARKANSAW  JOURNEY.  847 

we  arrived  about  the  middle  of  said  month  [Dec.  13th]  on  a 
water  of  the  Missouri,  which  I  ascertained  to  be  the  [South 
fork  of  the]  river  Platte,  on  which  we  discovered  signs  of 
immense  numbers  of  Indians.  Here  we  remained  a  few 
days  searching  for  those  Indians,  in  hopes  to  obtain  from 
them  information  as  to  a  route  to  cross  the  mountains  to 
the  west ;  but  not  discovering  any,  we  crossed  a  large 
chain  [Park  range]  by  a  practicable  route  [Trout  Creek  pass] 
and  fell  on  a  large  branch  of  water  which  I  then  conceived 
to  be  the  head  of  the  Red  river  [but  which  was  the  Arkan- 
saw].  Here  we  remained  a  few  days  [till  Dec.  21st]  to 
recruit  our  horses  and  ourselves,  when  I  ordered  the  party 
to  proceed  down  said  river,  and  I  with  two  men  ascended 
it  [nearly]  to  its  source,  where  I  made  some  observations. 
I  then  returned  and  overtook  the  party,  when  we  con- 
tinued to  descend  said  stream,  until  the  perpendicularity 
of  the  rocks  [of  the  Grand  Cafion  of  the  Arkansaw]  and 
other  difficulties  rendered  it  impossible  to  proceed  any 
further  with  horses,  several  of  which  had  already  been  killed 
by  falling  from  the  rocks,  etc. 

I  then  caused  sleds  to  be  constructed,  and  soldiers  to  draw 
the  baggage  on  the  ice,  and  ordered  a  few  men  to  endeavor 
to  conduct  the  horses  by  a  more  eligible  route  out  of  the 
mountains ;  at  the  extremity  of  which  we  all  arrived  by  the 
9th  of  January,  and  found  that  we  had  descended  the  main 
branch  of  the  Arkansaw,  conceiving  it  to  be  the  Red  river, 
and  were  again  at  the  same  point  [Cafion  City]  we  had  left 
on  the  9th  [loth]  ult. 

My  remaining  horses  not  being  in  a  situation  to  allow  me 
to  hope  for  any  further  assistance  from  them,  unless  per- 
mitted further  to  recover,  and  as  this  would  have  engrossed 
a  long  time,  I  determined  to  leave  some  men  with  the 
horses  and  part  of  the  baggage,  and  proceed  with  the  re- 
mainder and  the  articles  absolutely  necessary,  on  foot.  On 
the  14th  of  January,  having  constructed  a  small  place  for  my 
men  and  baggage  who  remained,  we  marched,  proceeding 
up  a  western  branch  [Grape  creek]  of  the  Arkansaw,  which 


848  SKETCH   OF  THE  ARKANSAW  JOURNEY. 

appeared  to  lead  in  a  direct  route  through  the  mountains. 
On  the  20th  of  said  month,  being  obHged  to  cross  a  prairie 
[Wet  Mountain  valley]  of  some  leagues  in  breadth,  late  in 
the  evening,  and  many  of  the  soldiers  having  their  feet  wet, 
we  had  it  not  in  our  power  to  make  fire  until  eight  or  nine 
o'clock  at  night.  We  were  so  unfortunate  as  to  ascertain 
that  nine  of  the  party  were  frozen.  The  ensuing  day,  discov- 
ering that  they  were  not  all  able  to  march,  we  remained  a 
few  days  to  lay  in  provisions.  Here  I  left  two  soldiers  and 
four  loads  of  our  baggage,  and  proceeded  on  our  march  ;  but 
on  the  third  day,  finding  another  of  my  men  not  able  to 
march,  I  was  obliged  to  leave  him  encamped,  having  previ- 
ously furnished  him  with  sufificient  provision.  We  then 
crossed  another  chain  [Sangre  de  Cristo]  of  mountains,  and 
on  the  1st  of  February  [31st  of  January]  arrived  on  the 
waters  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  which  I  then  conceived  to  be 
the  Red  river,  as  some  maps  which  I  held  portrayed  the 
source  of  the  Red  river  to  lie  between  those  of  the  Arkan- 
saw  and  Rio  del  Norte.  I  then  proceeded  to  choose  a 
station  [on  the  Rio  Conejos]  where  there  was  sufificient 
wood  to  form  canoes  or  rafts,  in  order  to  descend  the  sup- 
posed [Red]  river  to  Natchitoches. 

Having  in  many  instances  experienced  the  insolence  and 
presuming  dispositions  of  the  Indians,  when  in  superior 
numbers,  I  conceived  it  proper  to  throw  up  a  small  work 
for  the  protection  of  ourselves  and  baggage,  until  we  should 
be  prepared  to  descend  the  river. 

Four  or  five  days  [seven]  after  I  dispatched  five  men  to 
return  to  those  I  had  left  in  the  mountains,  and  bring  them 
on,  if  capable  of  marching;  if  not,  to  supply  them  with 
provision  and  bring  on  the  baggage.  Dr.  Robinson,  who 
had  hitherto  accompanied  me  as  a  volunteer,  having  some 
pecuniary  demands  in  the  province  of  New  Mexico,  con- 
ceived that  this  would  be  the  nearest  point  from  which  he 
could  go  in  and  probably  return,  previous  to  my  being  pre- 
pared to  descend  the  river.  He  left  me  on  the  7th  of 
February  with  that  view. 


SKETCH   OF  THE   ARKANSAW  JOURNEY.  849 

A  few  days  after  [on  Feb.  i6th],  hunting  with  one  of  my 
men,  I  discovered  two  men  on  horseback.  I  would  have 
avoided  them,  agreeably  to  my  orders  ;  but,  finding  they 
continued  to  pursue  us,  I  conceived  it  most  proper  to  bring 
them  to  a  conference.  This,  with  great  difficulty,  I  efTected, 
as  they  appeared  to  be  apprehensive  that  my  intentions 
were  hostile  toward  them.  I  conducted  them  to  my  camp, 
informed  them  of  my  intention  to  descend  the  river,  and 
made  them  some  small  presents.  Had  they  then  informed 
me  of  my  being  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  I  should  have  imme- 
diately retired  ;  but,  having  executed  their  commission, 
they  returned  the  following  day  on  the  immediate  route  to 
the  [Spanish]  settlements.  The  following  day  [Feb.  17th] 
the  party  I  had  detached  for  the  men  whom  I  had  been 
compelled  to  leave  in  the  mountains,  returned  with  one 
only,  and  all  the  baggage,  the  other  two  not  being  able  to 
come  on.  I  then  immediately  [Feb.  19th]  dispatched  my 
sergeant  and  one  man,  to  order  and  conduct  on  the  men, 
horses,  and  baggage  left  on  the  Arkansaw,  by  a  route  which 
I  conceived  practicable. 

On  the  24th  or  25th  [26th]  of  February,  in  the  morning, 
two  Frenchmen  arrived  at  my  camp,  and  informed  me  that 
an  officer  and  50  men  of  his  Catholic  Majesty's  troops  had 
marched  from  Santa  Fe,  in  order  to  protect  me  from  the 
Utahs,  who  had  exhibited  a  disposition  to  attack  me,  and 
would  probably  be  at  my  camp  in  two  or  three  days.  In  the 
course  of  two  or  three  hours,  I  was  informed  by  a  sentinel, 
whom  I  always  kept  on  a  hill,  of  the  approach  of  a  party  of 
strangers ;  and  in  a  short  period  there  arrived  two  officers 
and  100  men,  at  a  small  distance  from  the  camp.  The 
lieutenant  commandant,  having  entered  my  works  by  my 
invitation,  informed  me  that  the  governor  of  New  Mexico 
had  been  informed  of  my  situation  ;  and,  understanding 
I  was  bound  for  Red  river,  offered  me  any  assistance  which 
lay  in  his  power  to  accommodate  me.  I  replied  that  I  stood 
in  no  need  of  assistance  ;  that  I  could  descend  the  river  with 
craft  which  I   proposed  constructing.     He  then  informed 


850  SKETCH   OF  THE  ARKANSAW  JOURNEY. 

me  I  was  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  which  astonished  me 
extremely,  and  that  the  source  of  the  Red  river  was  eight 
days'  march  below  Santa  Fe  ;  and  that  the  governor,  being 
informed  that  I  had  missed  my  route,  offered  mules,  horses, 
etc.,  to  conduct  me  to  the  Red  river,  and  wished  to  see  me 
at  his  seat  of  government.  I  told  him  that  if  the  whole  of 
my  party  were  here,  I  would  not  hesitate  to  pay  my  respects 
to  his  Excellency,  with  one  or  two  men.  He  then  assured 
me  that  there  was  not  the  least  constraint ;  that  I  could  go 
in  before  or  after  the  arrival  of  my  party,  as  my  inclination 
dictated  ;  that  if  I  went  in  now  he  would  leave  an  Utah 
interpreter  and  one  man,  with  the  men  of  my  party  I  chose 
to  leave,  in  order  to  conduct  the  sergeant  and  party  when 
they  arrived.  I  finally  concluded  it  would  be  more  con- 
sistent with  the  good  understanding  which  existed  between 
the  government  of  the  United  States  and  his  Catholic 
Majesty,  to  proceed  to  Santa  Fe,  and  give  to  Governor 
Allencaster  an  explanation  of  my  being  on  his  frontiers. 
We  then  marched  for  his  [the  Spanish  lieutenant's]  camp, 
about  12  miles  distant,  leaving  the  [Utah]  interpreter,  one 
Spanish  soldier,  a  corporal  [Jackson]  and  one  private 
[Carter]  of  my  detachment,  with  orders  for  the  conduct  of 
my  sergeant  [Meek]  when  he  should  arrive. 

The  ne.xt  day  I  was  much  surprised  to  find  that  the 
lieutenant  and  all  the  regular  troops,  except  10,  were  to 
remain,  and  that  the  militia  officer  was  to  conduct  me  to 
Santa  Fe ;  the  lieutenant  giving  as  a  reason  the  particular 
orders  to  see  all  my  party  in  safety  at  the  capital.  We 
arrived  at  the  town  in  four  or  five  days  [Mar.  3d],  where  I 
was  received  at  first  in  a  manner  very  different  from  what 
I  had  been  taught  to  e.xpect  from  the  proffers  of  the  lieu- 
tenant in  the  name  of  the  governor.  The  arms  of  my  men 
being  taken  possession  of  by  the  guard  the  first  night  of  my 
arrival,  without  my  knowledge,  and  my  being  likewise  in- 
formed that  Dr.  Robinson  was  a  prisoner  at  some  leagues' 
distance,  they  induced  me  to  believe  that  a  rupture  had  taken 
place  between  Spain  and  the  United  States,  and  to  address 


SKETCH   OF  THE   ARKANSAW  JOURNEY.  85 1 

a  letter  to  the  governor,  demanding  if  I  was  to  consider 
myself  and  party  as  prisoners  of  war,  and  if  the  expense 
arising  from  the  detention  of  myself  and  party  was  to  be 
defrayed  by  the  United  States  or  his  Catholic  Majesty.  To 
this  his  Excellency  gave  me  a  very  polite  verbal  answer, 
assuring  me  that  I  was  by  no  means  to  consider  myself  as 
a  prisoner ;  that  the  arms  of  my  men  were  taken  unknown 
to  him,  and  should  be  immediately  restored  ;  but  that  it  was 
necessary  I  should  march  immediately  to  join  Lieutenant 
Malgares  and  party,  who  were  waiting  for  me  at  the  village 
of  St.  Fernandez,  in  order  to  conduct  me  to  Cliihuahua,  to 
be  presented  to  the  commandant-general  with  my  papers 
for  an  explanation.  On  my  arriving  at  said  village,  I  ad- 
dressed a  letter  to  the  governor,  informing  him  that  Dr. 
Robinson  had  accompanied  my  party  as  a  volunteer.  This 
I  had  not  acknowledged  at  Santa  Fe,  as  I  was  apprehensive 
that  his  coming  on  to  the  frontiers  of  the  province  with 
a  military  party,  in  case  of  a  rupture  between  the  two  gov- 
ernments, might  place  him  in  a  critical  position." 

*  As  a  pendent  to  the  foregoing  sketch,  which  was  prepared  for  the  infor- 
mation of  Congress,  may  be  presented  a  hitherto  unpublished  letter  which  Pike 
wrote  to  the  Secretary  of  War  soon  after  his  arrival  in  Washington,  when  he 
transmitted  reports  of  his  Western  Expedition.  It  is  printed  literally  and 
punctually  true  to  the  manuscript  now  on  file  in  the  archives  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment. 

Washington  City  .08 
Jany.  26  .  .  . 
Sir! 

I  am  at  length  enabled  to  present  you  with  the  reports  of  my  late  expidition 
from  the  period  of  our  sailing  from  Belle  Fontain  on  the  IS*"",  of  July  i8o5  ;  to 
my  leaveing  my  Stockade  on  the  Rio  del  Norte  under  escort  of  the  Spanish  Cav- 
alry ;  on  the  27.  Feby.  07. 

They  should  have  been  presented  some  time  'since,  had  I  not  have  been 
imployed  by  the  Commander  in  Chief,  for  a  very  consedrable  proportion  of  my 
time  since  my  arrival  at  the  seate  of  Goverment  : — It  must  be  recollected  that 
the  Spanish  General  seized  on  all  my  Documents  in  his  power  ;  Amongst  which 
[were]  the  book  of  Charts  protracted,  daily,  from  my  notes  and  the  eye  ;  and 
although  I  retained  a  Copy  of  Courses,  Distances,  &c — by  which  I  have  been 
enabled  to  retrace  my  plans,  and  routes,  yet  they  necessarily  are  not  so  perfect 
as  the  Original  and  daily  protractions  would  have  made  them  ;     They  likewise 


8S2  PENDENT  TO  THE   FOREGOING   SKETCH. 

The  lieutenant  [Pike]  only  further  observes  that  he  has 
not  entered  into  the  particulars  of  the  hardships  undergone, 
such  as  enduring  thirst  or  famine  for  three  or  four  days,  at 
different  periods;  marching  over  rugged  mountains, through 
snows  three  or  four  feet  deep,  exposed  to  every  inclemency 
of  the  weather  for  want  of  clothes,  carrying  at  the  same 

obtained,  and  retained  a  note  book  engrossed  with  Observations  on  the  manners, 
morals,  and  hal)its  of  the  Aborigines  of  the  countries  through  which  we  passed  ; 
the  loss  of  which  naturally  abridged  my  desertation  on  those  heads  ;  also  all  my 
Meteorological  tables  to  the  entrance  of  their  country  where  [were]  amongst 
the  papers  sized  [seized]  :  But  what  I  regret  the  most  was  my  Astronomical 
Obser\-ations  having  taken  at  Several  of  the  most  important  points,  the  neces- 
sary Data,  from  which  on  my  arrival  at  the  United  States,  and  having  it  in  my 
power  to  refer  to  the  appropriate  tables  and  Calculations,  I  could  have  fixed  the 
Latt.  and  Longitude  and  thereby  secured  the  Great  Geographical  Object  of  giv. 
ing  a  Determinate  position  to  Various  and  important  points  of  our  Country, 
from  having  it  in  my  power  to  correct  the  Chart  which  I  now  present  you 
agreeably  to  the  true  principals  of  spherical  projections.  The  few  notes  you  see 
of  the  Latt.  are  ascertained  from  letters  I  wrote  Gen'.  Wilkinson  at  different 
periods  and  the  Longitude  would  have  been  preserved  in  the  same  manner  had 
I  have  had  tables  with  me  which  would  have  enabled  me  to  calculate  the  immer- 
sions &  emersions  ; — as  well  as  angular  distances  at  the  time  the  observations 
were  taken. — In  the  Chart  herewith  I  have  included  all  the  Country  between 
the  La  Platte  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Red  river  of  the  Mississsippi  ;  and 
although  it  is,  and  from  the  nature  of  our  information,  of  that  immense  dis- 
trict tmist  lie,  very  imperfect  ;  yet  I  do  not  hesitate  to  assert  it  is  the  best 
extant  ;  I  have  carefully  remarkd  on  said  Chart  all  the  parts  by  actual  sur- 
vey and  the  Gentleman  by  whom  surveyed,  in  order  that  each,  may  lay  claim 
to  his  proper  proportion  of  fame. — You  have  also  herewith  L'.  Wilkinsons 
report  of  his  expedition  after  I  detached  him  down  the  Arkensaw,  (and  his 
seperate  Chart  on  a  large  scale),  in  which  he  encountered  immense  dificulties  in 
the  accomplishment  of  the  desired  end. 

I  have  not  the  talents  nor  passions  requisite  for  the  Botanist  or  Mineralogist, 
but  had  I  have  possessed  them  ;  the  various  duties  I  was  oblidged  to  perform  of 
commanding  Officer,  Surveyor  ;  Astronomer  ;  hunter  ;  and  advanced  guard,  to- 
gether with  the  dreary  season  in  which  we  travelled  part  of  the  route  ;  with  our 
minds  much  more  actively  employed  in  forming  resources  for  our  preservation 
from  famine  ;  and  defence  against  any  savage  enemy  who  might  assail  us,  then 
[than]  examining  the  productions  of  Nature  which  was  under  our  feet  and 
Instead  of  our  eyes  being  directed  to  the  Ground  ;  they  were  endeavouring  to 
peace  [pierce]  the  Wild  before  us — or  giveing  distinction  and  form  to  moveing 
Bodies  on  the  distant  Prairies — or  enjoying  the  rapturous  sublimity  of  the  un- 
bounded prospects  which  were  frequently  presented  to  our  View's.  Yet  Doc''. 
Robinson  who  possessed  both  talents,  and  taste  for  those  pursuits  ;  has  promised 


PENDENT   TO   THE   FOREGOING   SKETCH.  853 

time  packs  of  60  or  70  pounds'  burden — in  short,  every 
hardship  to  which  a  savage  life  in  its  greatest  state  of  bar- 
barity is  exposed.  These  are  circumstances  only  calculated 
to  excite  humanity,  and  not  to  give  explanation  as  to  the 
general  chain  of  events  connected  with  the  voyage.  He 
therefore  refers  his  Excellency  [President  Jefferson]  to  the 

to  enclose  me  some  remarks  which  no  doubt  will  be  interesting  ;  and  if  received 
shall  be  presented  to  the  War  Department. 

After  I  entered  the  Spanish  Dominions  I  was  as  careful  to  conceal  any  notes 
or  observations,  I  made  on  their  country  as  I  had  been  indifferent  to  all  that 
related  to  what  was  in  the  conceived  Territories  of  the  United  States  ;  Trusting 
to  the  dignified  title  of  an  American  Officer  ;  the  Caution  with  which  I  con- 
ceived the  .Spanish  Goverment  would  act  and  an  Idea  I  had  eroneously  formed 
of  their  want  of  Energy  ;  yet  owing  to  some  Indications  I  was  induced  to  con- 
ceal my  journal  and  other  papers,  leaving  the  Book  of  Charts  &c  for  to  lull  any 
suspicions  which  might  arise  from  their  being  no  papers  in  the  trunks.  I  now 
wish  General  Dearborne  to  signify  to  me  the  extent  he  wishes  me  to  enter  in 
the  of  my  involuntary  Tour  through  the  Internal  Provences  of  New  Spain  if  it 
is  thought  proper :  I  can  give  (from  the  Notes  and  Documents  in  my  posses- 
sion) in  addition  to  Jfiy  Diary  and  Corrispondences  luitk  the  Spanish  Governors 
relative  to  my  Detention,  seizure  of  my  papers,  the  subsistence  of  my  party  &-V  ; 
A  General  Idea  of  the  Commerce,  morals,  manners,  Arts,  and  Sciences  :  A 
correct  account  of  their  Military  posts,  with  a  well  founded  estimate  of  the 
whole  Militia  of  the  Provences  ;  their  population,  and  relative  connexion  with 
each  other.  Also,  an  Idea  of  their  Annual  revenue,  the  monies  coined  at  the 
mint  &c.  Some  suggestions  on  the  sate  [state]  and  influence  of  the  Catholc 
Religion,  The  Dispositions  of  the  Inferior  Clergy — to  close  whole  with  a  view 
of  the  general  tendency  of  the  Country  to  a  revolution,  the  interests  of  the 
United  States  in  case  of  that  event  ;  or  the  best  mode  of  Treating  with  New 
Spain  in  case  of  a  rupture  with  the  Mother  Country  ;  with  a  General  Chart  of 
those  parts  of  the  provinces  through  which  we  passed.  This  may  be  takeing  to 
wide  a  field  for  the  time,  the  Goverment  may  wish  to  allow  me  in  making  the 
report ;  or  they  may  possess,  information  on  those  subjects  from  pens  far  abler 
than  mine,  who  may  have  anticepated  those  suggestions  in  their  full  extent. 

I  beg  leave  at  this  moment  to  call  the  attention  of  the  Secy  of  War  to  the  sit- 
uation of  the  remaining  part  of  my  Detachment  in  New  Spain  which  consists  of 
one  Interpreter,  a  Young  man  of  Good  family  in  upper  Louisiania  whose  salary 
is  500  Dollars  pr — Annum,  one  Sergeant,  one  Corporal  and  five  privates ;  sev- 
eral of  those  poor  fellows  have  become  cripples  from  their  limbs  being  frozen, 
and  are  in  a  strange  country  amongst  people  whose  language  they  cannot  under- 
stand, from  their  long  detention  without  any  information  from  their  native 
Land,  dispair  will  seize  their  minds,  and  will  picture  to  their  immaginations 
Years  of  Confinement  in  a  foreign  Country — I  who  was  late  their  Companion 
in  dificulties  and  Dangers  cannot  so  soon  forget  our  forlorne  situation,  and  the 


854  ROSTER   OF   THE   MISSISSIPPI   PARTY. 

commander-in-chief  of  the  United  States  army,  for  an  ex- 
planation of  the  general  intent  and  nature  of  the  expedition, 
and  to  his  notes,  astronomical  observations,  and  charts,  for 
the  courses,  situations,  etc.,  of  the  different  points  and  rivers 
alluded  to  in  the  foregoing  sketch. 


Return  of  persons  employed  on  a  tour  of  disovery  and  explora- 
tion to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  in  t lie  years  180^  and 
1806  [and  to  the  source  of  the  Arkansaiv  in  the  years  1806 
and  i8oj\ 

Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike ;  Interpreter  Pierre  Rosseau  ;  Ser- 
geant Henry  Kennerman ;  Corporal  William  E.  Meek; 
Corporal  Samuel  Bradley. 

Privates  John  Bolcy ;  Peter  Branden  ;  John  Brown; 
Jacob  Carter;  Thomas  Dougherty;  William  Gorden ; 
Solomon  Huddleston;  Jeremiah  [R.]  Jackson;  Hugh 
Menaugh ;  Theodore  Miller;  John  Mountjoy;  David 
Owings;  Alexander  Roy;  Patrick  Smith;  John  Sparks; 
Freegift  Stoute ;  David   Whelply. 

This  party  left  St.  Louis  the  9th  of  August,  1805,  but  had 
been  detached  for  that  duty  from  the  ist  of  July.  They 
returned   the   30th   of  April,  1806. 

From  this  time  until  the  15th  of  July,  I  was  preparing  for 
the  second  expedition,  to  the  westward,  which  consisted  of 
the    following  persons,  to  wit : 

obligations  I  am  under  to  them  for  the  promtitude  with  which  they  encountered 
danger,  and  fortitude  they  exhibited,  and  the  fidility  and  attachment  they 
evinced  to  their  Military  Commander,  and  leader,  through  those  scenes  ;  as  not 
to  exert  myself  to  call  forth  the  attention  of  the  Government  in  their  favour  :  I 
therefore  hope  that  General  Dearbonie  will  take  such  measures  as  may  be 
deemed  expediant  in  order  to  restore  those  poor  Lads  to  the  service  of  their 
Country. 

I  am  Sir  With  High  Respect  and 

Consideration 

Your  Obt.  Sert. 
The  Hon'.  [Signed]     Z.   M.  PncE  Captain 

Henry  Dearborne.  ist  UStates  Regt.  Infy 

Sec.  of  War. 


ROSTER   OF   THE   ARKANSAW   PARTY.  855 

Captain  Z.  M.  Pike;  Lieutenant  James  B.  Wilkinson*; 
Dr.  Jolin  H.  Robinson;  Interpreter  Baroney  Vasquezf ; 
Sergeant  Josepli  Ballenger*;  Sergeant  William  E.  Meekf ; 
Corporal  Jeremiah  [R.]   Jackson  f. 

Privates  John  Boley  *  ;  Samuel  Bradley*;  John  Brown; 
Jacob  Carter  f;  Thomas  Doughertyf ;  William  Gorden; 
Solomon  Huddleston;*  Henry  Kennerman  [deserted]; 
Hugh  Menaugh ;  Theodore  Millerf;  John  Mountjoyf; 
Alexander  Roy  ;  Patrick  Smithf  ;  John  Sparksf  ;  Freegift 
Stoute;    John  Wilson*. 

*  Those  thus  marked  descended  the  Arkansaw  river,  and 
arrived    at    New    Orleans    some    time    about    the  of 

February,  1807. 

f  Those  thus  marked  are  still  detained  in  New  Spain.' 

The  balance  [except  Kennerman]  arrived  at  the  Nachi- 
toches  on  or  about  the  ist  of  July,  1807.  But  it  may  prob- 
ably be  better  to  leave  the  whole  time  undefined,  to  be 
regulated  by  the  honorable  secretary  of  war. 

'  The  dagger  set  at  Mountjoy's  name  is  probably  an  error:  see  note ',  pp. 
358-360,  and  note  '",  p.  510.  Mountjoy  was  certainly  one  of  those  who  accom- 
panied Pike  from  the  Rio  Conejos  into  Mexico,  and  there  is  no  evidence  that 
he  was  dropped  anywhere  in  that  country.  Also,  Pike  says  that  only  "  five  " 
privates  were  detained  in  Mexico  when  he  made  a  report  to  the  Secretary  of 
War,  dated  at  Washington,  Jan.  26th,  1808  :  see  p.  853.  Furthermore,  witness 
the  following  hitherto  unpublished  document,  which  I  find  in  the  archives  of 
the  War  Department,  and  in  which  Mountjoy's  name  does  not  appear  : 

"  Return  of  a  Detachment  of  Infantry  of  the  Army  of  the  U:  States,  detained 
at  Chihuahua,  the  Seat  of  Government  for  the  Internal  Provinces  of  New  Spain, 
by  Order  of  the  Commandant  General  of  those  Provinces,  in  the  year  1807. — 


liaroney  Vasquez — Interpreter 
William  E.  Meek — Sergeant 
Jeremiah  Jackson — Corporal 
Thomas  Dougherty — Private 
Jacob  Carter —  Ditto 

John  Sparks —  d°. 

Theodore  Miller—         d". 
Patrick  Smith—  d". 


"  [Signed]     Z.  M.  PiKE  Captain 
"  I?  UStates  Regt  Infy  ' 


Above  in  clerk's  hand,  Pike's  signature.     Rec'd  at  War  Dept.  May  3d,  1808. 


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