Expedition to Oregon

593

OAKLY

EXPEDITION TO OREGON

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The Oregon Elxpedition

of
Obadiah Oakly

Expedition to Oregon

Obadiah Oakly

Reprinted from the Peoria Register
New York. 1914

u. c.

IkDEMY OF
IFIC COAST
^IST©RY

(From the Peoria Register.)

The Oregon Expedition

Mr. Obadiah Oakley, one of the party who left Peoria in
May for Oregon, returned home on Sunday last, having sepa-
rated from his companions in the Rocky Mountains. From
a conversation with him we have gathered the following out-
line of his journey and adventures.

The company, it will be remembered, consisted, on leaving
Peoria, of 15 members. At Quincy they were joined by an-
other; all of whom reached Independence, Mo., the 2Qth of
May, 20 days after leaving Peoria. We presented in July a
letter from Mr. Famham, the commander of the party, written
about this time, and another from Mr. Smith, one of the com-
pany. The narrative now given will commence where the other
left off.

At Independence, two more joined the company, one of
whom, Mr. Shortess, had been once before to the Mountains,
and now offered to act as guide. He was about 45 years of
age, and soon proved himself to be of a reckless and unprin-
cipled character. The other was a young man named Pritch-
ard, recently from one of the eastern states. Before leaving
Independence they exchanged their wagon and some of their
horses for other horses and pack mules. Where these are pur-
chased the prices are from 60 to 65 dollars. They bought also
a quantity of articles, such as knives, lead, vermillion, and a
few trinkets, with which to trade with the Indians. One mule,
which belonged to the party in common, carried their tent, two
kegs of powder, and a few other articles. The other mules, of
which each member, for the most part, owned one, carried the
provisions, clothing and other property of each. The provis-
ions amounted to 200 lbs. of flour and 150 lbs. of bacon, be-

OAiCLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

sides sugar, coffee, tea, and minor groceries. Upon their
riding horses they carried their rifles, blankets, and some extra
clothing.

Thus mounted and provisioned, the company, 18 in num-
ber, left Independence the 29th of May, on the Sante Fe road,
which is a distinct wagon track. The first adventure they met
with was the loss of two horses the following night, while they
were encamped five miles from Independence. The owners re-
turned to that town the next day, and recovered them, though
this ill luck was but the precursor of worse that was to follow,
as will appear in the sequel.

Ten miles further, and 15 from Independence, brought them
to the western boundary line of Missouri, where Mr. Fitzhugh
resides in a log cabin, and tliis was the last house they saw
until they reached some of the posts of the American Fur
Company.

A day or two afterwards, when they had reached Elm
Grove, 40 miles from Independence, and had there encamped
for the night, they discovered that two other horses were miss-
ing. As they had doubtless returned to Independence, the
owners started in pursuit, while the remainder of the company,
after halting a day at the grove, continued on leisurely, so that
the absentees might sooner overtake them. This they did, with
the recovered horses, about a day and a half afterwards, and
the company met with no further delays from this source.
Their practice at night, after unlading the horses, was to stake
them in the prairie, i. e., to drive notched stakes into the
ground, to which they would fix one end of the halter, giving
the animals sufficient play to enable them to feed in abundance.
The ground thus far had been soft and mellow, so that the
stakes were easily drawn by the horses; but afterwards had
become harder and firmer, so as effectually to secure them.

At the Osage river, about 100 miles from Independence,
they were agreeably surprised at meeting a returning party
who had passed along a few days before them to assist Capt.

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

Kelly's Santa Fe company, bound to the latter place, over the
worst part of the road, it consisted of seven wagons, with a
proportionate number of men. They had assisted the company
to Council Grove, 50 miles beyond, and were now on their
return. Though our adventurers had been but a week from
Independence, during which they had not seen a human being,
the sight of a fellow countryman now kindled the feelings of
the warmest sympathy in their hearts, and three of them
resolved at once to return. They were Grin Garrett and Wm.
Picket of Peoria, and young Moore of Quincy. Here also
two Caw Indians, the first of any tribe they had seen, came to
the camp, and received from the party some trifling presents.
On the next day they saw 30 or 40 of the same tribe, all of
whom were very peaceable. They were returning from a hunt-
ing excursion, and were entirely ignorant of our language.

The Osage river is here about 30 yards wide, and about
knee deep. It was consequently forded with ease and safety,
and on returning, Mr. Oakley found it nearly dry. The face
of the country thus far was a rolling prairie, with no timber
save a very few small groves at a distance from the road on
the right and left. Two or three inconsiderable streams had
been crossed, but they also were for the most part destitute of
timber.

Parting with the Santa Fe escort next day, the party con-
tinued on to Council Grove, 50 miles further, which they had
reached on the 9th of June, 10 days from Independence. The
distance is 150 miles. They had consequently traveled, includ-
ing stoppages, 15 miles a day. Here they rested a day to re-
pair their pack saddles, and other damages.

On the 12th, while pursuing their journey, they were over-
taken by a tremendous storm, more awful than anything they
had ever before seen or read of. The thunder was petrifying
and the lightning appalling beyond description. How they
escaped with their lives seemed a miracle. Mr. Oakley's gun,
which he held in his hand, was struck from him, and he nearly

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

thrown from his horse. The others were more or less affected
by the subtle element. Mr. Oakley thinks more rain fell in
fifteen minutes than he had ever known to fall here in the se-
verest storm during a day. The effect of this deluge in swell-
ing the streams which the party had to cross, will be seen
hereafter.

The same evening they overtook Capt. Kelley's company,
bound for Santa Fe, to which reference has already been had.
It numbered 14 wagons and 29 men. With them our adven-
turers were invited to camp for the night, an offer which they
gladly accepted, as they had no wood, nor was a tree to be
seen. The wagons, however, were plentifully supplied, hav-
ing brought it with them. No water was to be had save that
which had fallen a few hours before, wliich they scooped up
from pools in the prairie.

By this time the provisions obtained at Independence were
nearly exhausted, and they had met with no game to shoot.
It became, therefore, necessary that the party should divide,
by choosing hunters to go ahead and procure a supply.
Messrs. Oakley, Shortess, Jordan and Fletcher, were chosen
accordingly, and they set out on the following morning. As
this portion of his story most abounds in incident, we shall
give in brief each day's progress.

June 13. The four hunters, leaving with the main party
all the provisions, set out, themselves destitute, in search of
game. They soon saw some elk, two of which they wounded,
but they afterwards escaped. At 4 in the afternoon, when
within 8 miles of Little Arkansas river, they met a trading
company, consisting of 30 odd men, and 10 wagons, loaded
with peltries from the Rocky Mountains, under the command
of Mr. Bent, who resides at Bent's fort, on the Arkansas river.
With it were also ^0 sheep, bound for a lower market. By this
company the hunters were kindly treated and feasted for the
night. Capt. Bent informed them that he had lost from his
caravan since he left home, 30 mules and 7 horses, which had

6

OAKLVS OREGON EXPEDITION

strayed away, and requested if they found them, to take them
in charge and leave them at his fort as they passed it. He
also said they would find plenty of buffalo meat the next day at
Cow creek. To-night another rain visited the company, but
little less severe than that already spoken of.

14. Separating from the company just mentioned, the
hunters continued on, and in 8 miles reached the Little Arkan-
sas. Though about such a stream as the Osage, between 30
and 40 yards wide, it was now prodigiously swollen, being at
least 15 feet deep, and running with great velocity. As it was
impracticable to cross it, the hunters planted themselves leis-
urely upon its bank, took out their fishing Hues, and com-
menced fishing. In a little while they caught 12 catfish,
"fat yellow fellows," — who proved to be of excellent flavor.
They made a fire on the spot, and proceeded to roast one on
the coals, and though they had no seasoning, the meal was a
very grateful one. While thus engaged, three men of Capt.
Bent's company, who had been left behind to hunt for the
stray mules and horses, appeared on the opposite side of the
river after an unsuccessful search. As they were destitute of
food, and the surest resource lay in overtaking the company
they had left, the river was to them a feeble obstacle. Imme-
diately on reaching it, they drove in their horses, who swam
directly across, then stripped themselves and followed their
example ! One of them, a Spaniard, whom familiarity with
the water had rendered half amphibious, took the saddle from
his horse and held it in one hand, while he swam across with
the other. They had eat nothing for three days. Another fish
was consequently laid on the coals and speedily devoured.
After spending the night together, the hunters sent by the
strangers some fish to Capt. Bent, and after leaving three of
the largest in the water for their comrades, when they came
up, and to which their attention was directed by a signal, they
prepared to cross the river.

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

15. The passage across the river was effected in this way:
— the halters were taken from the horses and tied into a line,
which was found to be in length double the width of the river.
The horses were then driven across; after which two of the
men swam over, carrying one end of the line with them. Those
who remained tied the luggage in a bundle to the rope on the
edge of the shore, then holding the rope behind the bundle, and
letting it slip through their hands as those on the opposite
side pulled, both parties keeping the rope so well stretched as
to hold it above the water, the bundle was conveyed safely
over. The next minute the two remaining men were over and
all soon under way again. During this day five other streams
were swam and waded. Nothing escaped being thoroughly
drenched except the powder, which was carried in small canis-
ters high on the body. The musketoes were "dreadful."
Camped at night on Big Cow creek, where Capt. Bent had said
they would find buffalo, though they did not.

16. As a supply of meat became more and more desirable,
the hunters determined to leave their baggage at the spot
where they had camped, and go forth unencumbered in pur-
suit of buffalo. After riding seven miles and finding none, it was
arranged that two should go back for the baggage, and take
it on to a point named, — Walnut creek grove, — while the other
two should sweep the country, and meet the others at sundown.
Oakley and Jordan went back for the baggage, and Shortess
and Fletcher continued the hunt. As the former, in prose-
cuting their journey, approached the grove about sundown,
Jordan said he saw the ghsten of a gun barrel, and that there
must be Indians. They stopped to consult, when Jordan was
for returning; but Oakley said that would be useless, as the
Indians, if such, must have seen them first, and would speedily
overtake them. He was therefore for going boldly forward
and meeting the worst. As the}' advanced they saw oxen, and
soon discovered the party to be a company of traders. They
were bound for Santa Fe, and numbered 93 men and 53 wagons.

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

Our adventurers met with a severe reprimand from them for
traveUng in the exposed manner they did, subject to be met
almost hourly by Indians, who would prove hostile or friendly,
just as their inclination or their wants might prompt them.
After dark, Shortess and Fletcher arrived, without having
killed anything. The four had been three days with but one
meal of catfish to eat. With the Santa Fe company, however,
they once more fared sumptuously. They here discovered the
reason why they had found no buffalo on and around Big
Cow creek, as Capt. Bent had told them they w^ould. The Caw
Indians, who hovered around and in front of the company, had
driven them off, that they might enhance their value, and by
killing them themselves, sell the meat at a good price to the
traders.

17, Traveled along with the Santa Fe company and pro-
ceeded only 8 miles. They saw no game during the day save
one hare, which they shot at and wounded. Camped to-night
on a prairie without wood.

18. The four hunters, being somewhat in advance of the
company, saw seven buffalo bulls and gave chase. They were
seen by the company about the same time, and some of their
best men started also in pursuit; but Jordan and Fletcher,
having the best horses, kept ahead. The bulls, as the pursuit
continued, separated, and fled in different directions ; but one
was run down after a chase of 2% miles by the two hunters
named, and easily killed. He weighed about 900 lbs. After
taking the fleece, i. e. the most fleshy parts, weighing about 300
lbs., and leaving the carcass, thej^ loaded their horses and re-
turned to the company. This was the first buffalo they had
killed, and they found the meat superior in flavor to any they
had ever eaten. The bulls are far before our domestic cattle,
and the cow^s, as they afterwards proved, as much excel them
as the meat of a tame heifer exceeds that of the male in our
markets. The flesh now obtained the "jerked," and it lasted
5 or 6 days.

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

19. Two of the hunters went back with a portion of the
buffalo to meet their comrades, from whom they had now been
separated 6 days. They found them 8 miles back, with nothing
to eat, having in this interval killed but one antelope. They
had found the fish also, and had previously met Capt. Bent's
company. They also had found his stray mules and horses,
and now had them in company. (On leaving them afterwards
at Bent's fort, Capt. B.'s brother generously presented the
company. With two of the mules and 200 lbs. of flour for their
trouble.) The same day the whole party overtook the Santa
Feans, who had proceeded but 6 miles from where the two
hunters separated from them. All encamped that night at
Pawnee fork. The Caw Indians, before spoken of, had killed
62 buffaloes, so that provisions were most abundant ; but their
mode of jerking it was any thing but cleanly, and none of Capt.
Farnham's party, as they had plenty of their own, partook of
it.

20. Both companies continued on together. Capt. Farn-
ham's hunters killed another buffalo, and while stopping to
jerk the meat, some Caw Indians came up, to whom they sold
a few articles for money, of which they seemed to have plenty.
The price of a common butcher knife, for which the company
paid 25 cents at Independence, was out here $1.50. Other ar-
ticles were in proportion.

21. A most dreadful accident occurred this morning. While
the tent was being struck, and the compan}' preparing to de-
part, Mr. Smith, in drawing his gun towards him, the muzzle
forward, permitted the trigger to come in contact with some
protuberance on his saddle, when it went off immediately in the
direction of the bottom of the chest. The ball struck one of
his waistband buttons and glanced to the left, penetrating the
flesh and severing two of his ribs. He was caught, while in
the act of falling, by Mr. Oakley, who, on removing his his
clothing, found the flesh to be dreadfully lacerated and the
ball lodged near the spine. The Santa Fe company, in which

10

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

was a surgeon, — Dr. Walworth, one of the owners, — was about
five miles ahead, and thither Mr. O. hastened for assistance.
Dr. W. returned in his carry-all with a bed, and after extract-
ing the ball and dressing the wound, put Smith in the carriage,
in which he was taken onward with comparative comfort. —
This disaster detained the company till noon, and to make up
for the detention they travelled till midnight without being
able to overtake the Santa Feans. At night their progress was
greatly retarded by the herds of buffalo which lined the road
and covered the plain. They were as thick as sheep were ever
seen in a field, and moved not until the caravan was within ten
feet of them. They would then rise and flee at random, greatly
affrighted, and snorting and bellowing to the equal alarm of
the horses and mules. Supposing, from their not overtaking
the advance company, that they had mistaken the road, the
party resolved, at the hour above mentioned, to encamp.

22. At daylight they discovered that they had during the
night taken a wrong road, and by turning off in the proper
direction soon came in sight of and joined the advance party.
To-day, for the first time, they used the dung of the buffalo
for fuel, and found it to bum like tinder. The plains were
covered with these animals as far as the eye could reach, and
they appeared to be as countless as the stars for multitude.
The noise proceeding from them was unremitting, and more
nearly resembled the low growl of a lion in a cage than any
thing else it could be compared to. They appeared not to
be sensible of the distant approach of the travellers by the usu-
al sense of seeing, but seemed only governed by that of smelling.
If the traveller had *'the wind of them," as it is termed, he
might approach within 30 yards, but from an opposite direc-
tion a near approach was impossible. For the two succeeding
days nothing of interest occurred.

25. Another tremendous storm to-night. The wind blew
a hurricane, breaking the tent poles in two, and prostrating

11

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

every thing before it. The travellers were consequently
drenched.

26. The clothes of every man were saturated with water,
yet the two companies set off, and soon reached the Arkansas
river, 40 miles below the Santa Fe crossings.

28. Reached the crossings this afternoon. The distance
is computed to be 450 miles from Independence, and one month
had just been consumed in the journey. Here it became nec-
essary that the two companies should separate, the larger to
continue the plain beaten road to Mexico — the other to pene-
trate the trackless wilderness to the mouth of the Columbia,
in view of the latter prospect, three of the company became
discouraged and determined to join the Santa Fe party. They
were Q. A. Jordan, Chauncey Wood, and young Pritchard. The
others maintained stout hearts, and responded to the motto of
their leader 'Oregon or the Grave.' Thus far, since his dread-
ful accident. Smith had been brought on in the carryall ; but as
he was now to part with this, it became necessary to provide
other means for his conveyance. At first a litter was con-
structed and placed upon two mules ; but as it was not properly
made, it could not be used. Other modes were resorted to, with
equal ill success ; and as a last resource he was compelled to
be placed upon his horse, and thus pursue the journey. Every
step of the animal seemed to rend his vitals, yet he bore it with
manly firmness. Capt. Famham duly commiserated his con-
dition and sought by every means in his power to render liim
more comfortable. Most of the others partook of his spirit;
but some there were who looked upon the almost dying man as
a burden which they would gladl}^ get rid of, and strenuously
urged his being left with a week's provision and his rifle, either
to die, as the^' beheved he must, or to regain liis health and
seek other adventures. For the honor of the company this
proposition was advocated by three only, while the others de-
termined to stand by, and, if need be, perish with him. They
waited on him with the utmost fidelity, helping him every few

12

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

minutes from his horse, and sitting by him while he rested on
the prairie, and as their companions would thus get some miles
in advance during the day, they would by late travelling gain
the camp at night. BancrOft UDf^ff

The next prominent point after leaving the Santa Fe cross-
ings on the Arkansas river, is Bent's fort, 160 miles further
up that stream. The route is along a tolerably distinct wagon
track, and they reached the fort on the 5th of July, six days
after leaving the crossings. Here Smith obtained rest and
good quarters, and in a week was sufficiently recovered to re-
sume the journey with tolerable convenience. On the way, in
consequence of the mutinous and diabolical spirit manifested
by a few of the company, growing out of the deplorable condi-
tion of Smith, Captain Famham threw up the command, and
thenceforward abjured all control. Thus they arrived at the
fort without a leader. The fort is an enclosure of about a quar
ter of an acre, with several rooms attached to the walls,
capable of accommodating 100 men. It contains 1000 stand of
arms and one brass cannon, the force being intended to intimi-
date the surrounding Indians and keep the hostile in check.

The Arkansas river is about as wide as the Missouri, and
the water of the same color, though far less deep and rapid.

After spending six days at the fort, the party prepared
to leave, when it appeared that the spirit of disaffection, to
which reference has been made, had resulted in a division of
the company into two parties. One, and the largest, was com-
posed of Shortess, Moore, Fletcher, Fash, Kilbum, Yates, Ho-
mer, and Cook with Shortess for their leader. The two first
named had been most instrumental in the inhumanity prac-
tised towards Smith and their separation was a matter of re-
joicing to his friends. The other was composed of Farnham,
Oakley, Smith, Wood, Blair, Kelly and Osa, with Kelly for
their leader and guide. He was a Kentuckian, who had been
in the Mountains for eleven years, and who here joined the
party. Blair had joined at the Santa Fe crossings, and Osa

13

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

was a Spaniard, who had for some time resided at the fort or
in the neighborhood.

Both parties left the fort on the 11th of July, with the
design of reaching the Columbia river, — Shortess's for Bent
and Sublette's fort on the south fork of Platte river, 220 miles
distant, by a plain wagon road, — and Kelly's for Brown's Hole
in the Rocky Mountains, a route estimated to be 200 miles
nearer. The tent was left at Bent's, and such a division made
of the other property held in common as could be agreed upon.
This history will detail the progress of Kelly's party, though
it will be seen that reference is had in the sequel to that of the
other.

On leaving the fort the party took only a small quantity
of flour, with some sugar and coffee, depending, as before, upon
game for their chief subsistence. The face of the country was
similar to that before passed over, being nearly destitute of tim-
ber. At night each man would lie upon the ground within his
buffalo robe, with his saddle for a pillow, and the heavens for
a canopy. In a little while the}^ got accustomed to this mode
of lodging, and suffered no inconvenience from the loss of their
tent. For nine days they were unable to procure any meat,
having in this time seen only one antelope and a grisly bear,
which were too wild to approach within shooting distance of.
We now resume the diary.

Jul}^ 18. At 10 o'cock entered the Rocky Mountains by
a ravine, and were soon saluted by a tremendous hail storm.
The heights around were covered with snow, and the atmos-
phere indicated a degree of cold about equal to freezing. For
some nights past, whenever the weather was clear and still, there
had been sharp frosts.

19. No game seen to-day, and provisions entirely ex-
hausted.

20. Killed a buffalo bull, an antelope, and a mountain hen,
called by the hunters sage cock. ^Vhile dressing the buffalo, a
multitude of others came round, bellowing and pawing as if

14

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

they would revenge the murder. The men sprung to their
horses and guns, expecting the enraged animals would tear
them to pieces. After awhile, however, they retreated. The
road to-day was equally rugged with that of the two last, and
the Mountains destitute of trees, save here and there a hem-
lock, pine, balsam or willow. The latter were generally seen
on the banks of the streams.

21. Saw several fresh tracks in the sand, which their leader
and guide (Kelly) pronounced to be those of Indians. As these
were to have been expected, the event produced no other change
than to cause the party to keep a better look-out. Encamped
to-night in a beautiful valley, called Bayou Selard, 28 miles
from the head of the south fork of the Platte. It is a level
prairie, 30 miles long and 3 wide, and was covered with a thick
growth of flax, which every year springs up spontaneously.

22. Made between 18 and 20 miles, in the course of which
they crossed a branch of the south fork of Platte.

23. Crossed the dividing ridge between the stream just
mentioned and Grand river, the first western water, and empty-
ing into the Gulf of California. They were consequently upon
the back hone of the mestern continent, and descending towards
the Pacific ocean.

26. One of the horses died from poison, by eating, as was
believed, wild parsnips. Found to-day, the clearest and best
water they had ever drank.

28. Killed another buffalo, by which the stock of meat,
which had been nearly exhausted, was plentifully supplied.
Camped to-night on one of the branches of the Grand river.

30. Swam the main branch of Grand river, a stream nearly
as large as the Illinois, and very rapid.

31. Very rough traveling to-day, through and over fallen
pine timber. Though constant diligence was used, the com-
pany were unable to overcome more than four miles.

August 1. Crossed the dividing ridge between Grand and
little Bear rivers, the latter emptying into Green river, one of

15

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

the branches of the Columbia. Country exceedingly rough,
approaching to precipitous.

2. Met three trappers belonging to a company of ten, who
had with them their Indian wives and children. Their names

were Charles Warfield, Burrows, and Ward, all

from St. Louis. Warfield recognized in Smith an old acquain-
tance, whom he approached with "How do you do, Mr. Carroll?
I am very glad to see you." — Carroll, alias Smith, took him
aside for a few moments, and Warfield was afterwards careful
to call him Smith. Burrows and Ward, with the wife of one,
continued with the party four days, during which nothing
material occurred, except that the party killed an elk, and the
trappers in one night caught two beaver.

6. Soon after the parting with the trappers just named,
met four others (French) at the forks of Bear river. Killed
to-day two grizzly bears for sport, the flesh being too fat to
eat. Some of these animals are of enormous weight, reaching,
as the hunters say, 900 pounds. One killed during the journey,
a year old, exceeded 600.

7. First pleasant day since entering the mountains. For
the last twenty-one, it had either rained, hailed, or snowed on
each. The antelopes seemed inclined to improve it, and were
grazing and sporting about in great numbers. Continued down
Bear river, along its untrodden bank. There was no vestige of
footsteps, except here and there a buffalo trail, which the party
would follow so long as it continued in the proper direction,
but wlien it diverged therefrom they would leave it.

9. The meat was entirely exhausted. Expecting to find
buffalo wherever thej^ desired, the men had been impro^^dent in
its use, and now began to entertain fearful forbodings of the
future.

13. Arrival at Brown's Hole, the men nearly famished, hav-
ing been without food for four days. This is a trapper's fort
in the mountains, on the east branch of Green river, belonging
to Claig & , and affords shelter and accommodation for

16

OAKLrS OREGON EXPEDITION

30 men when all are present. All were now out on trapping ex-
cursions but two, and these were without any provisions except
dog meat, which they obtained from the Indians. Some Indians
passing with dogs shortly after, a bargain was struck for three
or four, the dogs being valued at $15 apiece, and the articles
given for them as follows ; powder $4 a pint, vermiUion $1 a
paper of 1% o^., tobacco $5 a pound, and lead and knives at
corresponding prices. They found the dog meat excellent,
much better than our domestic beef and next to buffalo.

Here the party remained for six days, when, as they were
preparing to resume their journey, a company of five persons
appeared in sight, travelling from the west. They proved to
be a party which had a few weeks previous escorted to Fort
Hall, in the Nez Perces or Flat Head country, about 300
miles further, two missionaries, viz. Rev. Messrs. Monger and
Griffeth with their wives. The party were Paul Richardson,

(leader,) Dr. Wislizenus, Eugene , Mr. Koontz, and

Charles Kline. Capt. Richardson had spent two years in the
Oregon country, had been to the mouth of the Columbia; was
well acquainted at Fort Vancouver, and had visited the Metho-
dist Missionary station at Wilhamet. To meet and converse
with him was therefore a matter of the deepest interest to our
adventurers. The prosecution of the journey was deferred,
and all gathered around the speaker to listen to his relation.
With an air of truth that demanded implicit confidence, he rep-
resented the country as undesirable in all its aspects. In the
richest portions, about Vancouver and Wilhamet, not more
than 15 bushels of wheat could be raised to the acre. The
rainy season continued five months, and this was followed by
six months of drought, in consequence of which, neither com
nor potatoes ever came to maturity. The ears of the former
sprouted from the stalk at the ground, and after a sickly
growth were invariably cut off by the frost, and the latter sel-
dom exceeded the size of a walnut. In point of health the pic-
ture was equally gloomy, the Indians labouring under fever

17

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

and ague the year round. These representations were not with-
out their effect upon the minds of two of the party, Oakley and
Wood, who determined to abandon the enterprise and return.

On the second day after the arrival of the party just spoken
of, they resumed their journey homeward, joined by Oakley
and Wood. Capt. Richardson, who knew the country well, pro-
posed taking a route different from that pursued by Kelly, viz. :
by the way of Bent & Sublett's fort, on the south fork of the
Platte, and which he represented to be several day's journey
nearer.

Leaving Capt. Kelly with Famham, Smith, Blair, and Osa,
at Brown's Hole, where they determined to remain till the ar-
rival of some party bound to Oregon, with which they would
unite, the homeward bound party set out on the 18th of August
for the south fork of Platte. For the first five days they were
without food. On the 6th day they killed an elk and subse-
quently a buffalo, which supplied them till they reached the
post spoken of. On their way they met with a remarkable ad-
venture which had nearly cost them their lives. This was their
coming suddenly upon a Sioux village, containing, as they
were informed, 1200 lodges ; each numbering 9 souls, giving a
total population of 10,800. Finding it impossible to retreat,
they yielded themselves prisoners, and were detained three days.
A council was held to decide whether they should be killed or
not; and during its progress, the young Indians, between 12
and 15 years old, would come up to them, and drawing their
bows, would shoot the arrows into the ground, looking with
savage grimaces into the faces of the captives, and crying tab-
babo (white man,) signifying thereby that their fathers were
then deciding thus to shoot them. The appearance of 400
friendly Chians, who interjK)sed in their favour, broke up the
council and saved their lives. A Chian chief immediately came
to them and advised their instant departure. As they were
saddling their horses the young Sioux would come around them
and endeavor to prevent it. To secure their guns they were

18

OAKLY'S OREGON EXPEDITION

compelled to stand firmly upon them, while three or four of the
men would keep off the Indians while another was securing the
saddle on the animal. The old Chians at length came to their
aid, and when fairly mounted, they pushed on with all the
speed in their power, outstripping, if purused, their followers.
No other adventure worth mentioning occurred on the way to
the Platte, which they reached on the 3d of September. Here
they found Shortess's party, where they had been 42 days. All
their horses had been stolen at night by the Indians some time
previous, while out on a buffalo hunt, and they were unable con-
sequently to continue their journey. They intended remaining
there till Mr. Craig went out to Brown's Hole, and would there
winter.

After remaining here three days, the homeward bound party
resumed their journey, and in eight more reached Bent's fort
on the Arkansas, which Oakley and Wood had left two months
and three days before. Here they rested two days, and then
retraced their steps homeward by the route they went out, ex-
cept that they struck the Missouri line at Westpoi-t, 12 miles
west of Independence.

Note.— It will be seen from this narrative that Capt. Farnham was left
at Brown's Hole, in the Rocky Mountains, on the 18th of August. Though
abandoned by all of his original companions but one, he yet maintained the
same unyielding iSrmness, never for once wavering in his purpose of reaching
" OREGON OR THE GRAVE ! "

••The original from which this is reprinted is undated, however The
Peoria Register was published under this name only during the years 1842-1845,

19