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«1XPL0RATI0NS and ADVENTURES
IN
NEW GUINEA
BT
CAPTAIN JOHN STRACHAN, F.R.G.S., F.R.C.I.,
OF SYDyEY.
LONDON;
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON,
LIMITED^
St. liutuitan's |gou0c>
Fetter Lane, Fleet Street.
1888.
LONDON :
PRINTED RT WII.UAH CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED.
8TAMVOBU 8TKEKT AKD OIUBIMO CBOM.
J^
I
TO THE
i PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES
THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY
^ Set(tcatet(,
IN THE CENTENNIAL YEAR OP AUSTRALIAN COLONIZATION,
BY THEIR MOST OBEDIENT AND FAITHFUL SERVANT.
THE AUTHOR.
KIN08TON-ON-THAHE8,
1888.
PREFACE.
In presenting the result of my Explorations and
Adventures in New Guinea to the public, I have been
actuated mainly by a desire to create an interest in
those great but little-known islands comprising the
Papuan Group^ For the work itself, as a literary
effort, little can be said. From the first it has been
no part of my plan to aspire to literary renown ; but
rather, in the plain homely language of a British sailor,
tell my tale as simply as possible, and, by adhering
strictly to the truth give to my readers some idea of the
rough work that has to be accomplished by pioneers
and explorers in our southern lands. In these pages
the reader will find no tale of deeds of heroic daring,
nor of that noble self-sacrifice, in the interest of science,
to which so many travellers lay claim. There are
recorded some hairbreadth escapes, and claim is laid to
a certain amount of energy and patient perseverance
vi Preface^
under many difficulties and disadvantages. Many
phases of native life are presented ; also an impartial
and unbiassed account of the work performed by the
London Missionary Society in Southern New Guinea.
These are the main features of a work which I make
no apology for placing before the British public.
Should the perusal weary any who read these pages,
it may be some satisfaction to them to reflect that the
weariness of the perusal cannot ecjual that so often felt
by the author in the prosecution of the explorations
these chapters record.
^m^m^^^F^^^^^m^^mm^^^^^^^^
TO THE PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
Fellow Colonists. — Before offering to the world the
result of my Explorations and Adventures in and
around New Guinea, it becomes necessary among other
things to consider to whom my imperfect attempt at
book architecture should be dedicated. Pondering
over the subject, my thoughts flew over the sea to
sunny New South Wales, to the brave city of Sydney
— wife, child, and trusty well-tried friends; to the
many vicissitudes and trials of an adventurous career,
which has brought with it both good and evil reports.
The effects of the latter would have been disastrous
to me, but for the able, prompt and strong support of
so many friends in the Le^slature of the Colony and
on the Press. Besides being ever secure in the
confidence of six hundred of my brother seamen who
compose the Sydney Marine Benefit Society, with
hundreds of other warm-hearted friends, whose kindly
viii To the People of New South Wales.
word and generous assistance has so often enabled me
to ride triumphant over every difficulty which has
beset my path. To you then, my friends and fellow
Colonists of New South Wales, with deepest devotion
and respectful regards, may 1 be permitted to dedicate
* Explorations and Adventures in New Guinea ' ? '
Ever yours faithfully,
John Strachan.
Kingston-on-ThameSj 1888.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
OFF THE OOAST IN THE " FOI."
The Shape and Size of New Guinea — ^How my Interest in
the Island began — First Visit in 1874 — ^Appointed to
lead an Expedition of Discovery in 1884 — ^Making a
Start — ToiTes Straits — ^Thursday Island — Purchase of
the ** Foi " — My Crew — Scenery and Sport at Moa —
At Anchor in the Harbour of Mabiac — The War
Canoes of the Natives — ^The Mission Station — ^The
Ormond Reefs — ^Billy's Confession — Farewell to Civili-
zation — ^Dowan Island — A false Alarm — Scott — ^The
best Man of my Party — A South Sea Islander proves
a Friend in Need — Jakobo — The Missionary — Shylock
in New Guinea .......
CHAPTER n.
ESPLOBINO THE MAI EASA BIVEB.
Polygamy at Saibai — The Pigs of the Village marching to
Church — Engaging native Guides — An armed Demon-
stratioD at Biago — Dragging the Boat — 'Making the
Entrance to the Mia Kasa River — Discover two 'i'ribu-
taries, and name them the Gregory and the Neill — ^An
PAGE
Contents,
PAGE
inland Sheet of Water — ^Name two large Streams which
empty themselves into the Mia Kasa, the Tokuda and
the Bradley — Characteristics of the surrounding
Coimtry — ^Is this a River or an Arm of the Sea ? — I
build Castles in the Air — ^We land and explore the
Country — ^A Scene of Enchanting Loveliness . . 24
CHAPTER III.
AN OYEBLAND JOURNEY.
The Junction of the Mia Kasa and Prince Leopold Rivers
— Determine to return to Saibai to get more men — A
Fleet of Canoes sweep into Sight — Hemmed in by hostile
Natives — Compelled to abandon the " Foi," and march
over Land — ^An Infidel and a Coward — On the March
— ^Arrive at the Bank of the Gregory River — Our Raft
sinks like a Stone — Crossing the River with Cowards
who cannot swim — Scott to the Rescue — The Revolver
as a Help to Decision — ^Encoimter a huge Python —
In Sight of the Sea at last — Scott's Gallantry — ^A last
Farewell to the brave Fellow — Once more at Dowan
— False Charges — ^Lord Derby publishes my Letter of
Vindication — ^A few Months' Rest in Sydney . . 43
CHAPTER IV.
I 8TABT ON MY SECOND EXPEDITION IN THE SCHOONSB
" HERALD."
At the Instance of some of the leading Citizens of Sydney,
I again take the Field in 1885 with a good Schooner
and Steam-Launch and a Party of eighteen Men —
Sad Changes at Dowan — Grouri's Widow and Children
— Two of my Men treat the Natives badly — I send for
■ 1 I I ■—— i^— — Pi— —■— ■—g— PPl
Contents. xi
FACE
the Mamoos, or Chief — A Visit to Jakobo — The Hero
of the River Bank threatens to kill me — Pinno secures
two Interpreters for me fix)m his Flock at Baigo —
Steaming up the Prince Leopold River — At the Mouth of
the Kethel River — ^A Shower of Complaints — Shooting
native Dogs — ^Taming a Savage — A Papuan Beauty —
Taking a Photograph of the Members of the Expedition 70
CHAPTER V.
ON TBE ITABCH THBOUGH NEW GUINEA.
A fine Stretch of open Forest Land — Gbrougi as a Diplo-
matist — ^The Entrance to Prince Leopold River —
Forsyth Island, and the Trouton Group — I name a
Tributary of the Leopold the Herald, after my Schooner
— ^Well-cultivated native Plantations — How to Climb
a Cocoanut Tree — ^A graceful young Savage — ^An
almost impenetrable Scrub . * • • .91
CHAPTER VL
NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE NATIVES.
Making our way through the Forest — ^A green Tree-Snake
A rush of armed Natives — I am introduced to Kamara,
Chief of the Daapa tribe— Garougi and Auiti explain
the Object of my Visit — ^The Appearance of the Women
and Children — ^I hold out the Olive Branch — ^A Famine
at Baigo — Kamara explains that his People have never
seen white Men before — ^I name his Territory, Strachan
Island, and promise to return — I clothe Kamara — ^His
dismay at my white Skin — Kamara sends me a Pre-
sent of a small wild Boar ..... 100
1
xit Contents.
PAGE
CHAPTER VIL
STBACHAH ISLAND.
Lovely Flora of the Island — Splendid Timber — ^Flocks of
black and white Cockatoos — ^Keeping Watch by Night
in the Tropics — Following a Native Track — ^Plunging
through a Cane Brake — Bush Work in the Wilds of
New Guinea — ^The Prospects for European Settlers . 113
CHAPTER VIII.
BECONKOITRING ON THE MAINLAND.
I determine to explore the Mainland to the Eastward, and
leave the Ship in a native Canoe — Native Gardens, and
the Remains of an old Carap — Arrival amongst the
People of Bern — Nature of the Soil — Comparative
Powers of Endurance of Natives and Europeans —
Statement of the Rivers discovered, and partially
explored, during the Progress of the Expedition — ^My
Theory, as yet unverified, is tbat all of these Streams
are Tributaries of the Fly River . . . .122
CHAPTER IX.
THE "herald" steers EASTWARD.
At the Mouth of the Mia Kasa — ^Pinoo and Dr. Macfarlane —
The Atrocities committed at Baigo by the Tngara men
— No Protection to the Natives we have Christianized,
thouorh there are plenty of idle Officers promenading
the Streets of Sydney, and British Gunboats dodging
aimlessly about between Port Moresby and Cook Town
Contents. xiii
PAGE
— An Appeal to England and Australia on behalf of the
native Races of New Guinea — Sir Robert Macgre^or's
Advent to Power a hopeful Sign — Talbot Island and its
People — ^A native Pastor at Saibai — ^The great and
beneficent Work achieved by the London Missionary
Society 130
CHAPTER X.
FRIEKDLT INTEECOTJBSK WITH THB DAUBO AND MOWATTA
TRIBES — THB FUTURE OP NEW GUINEA.
Engaging Interpreters at Daubo — A Journey into the
Interior — ^lam introducedtoEmari, Chief of the Daubo
People — ^His Friendly Attitude — A Question of ** Roast
Pier" — ^Return to Saibai — Proceed Eastward to
Mowatta — The Mission Station at the Mouth of the
Katow River — ^I try to gain the confidence of the People
of Goua — The Purchase of the Idol " Seegur ** — Arrival
at Taun — The Villages in the Neighbourhood of the Fly
River — Suspicions of the Natives and what gave rise
to them — ^We part good Friends — The Village of Turi-
Turi — We return to Sydney — ^News of Sir Peter
Scratchley's Death — Unfortunate Selection of his Suc-
cessor — The Future Prospects of New Guinea . . 139
CHAPTER XL
MY THIRD EXPEDITION TO NEW GUINEA.
Attitude of the new Commissioner — Feeling in New
South Wales— Discovery of Gold-fields in Western
Australia — ^McClure's Gulf — Followers of Islam —
Abdul Delili, Rajah of the Gulf Tribes — Spudeen takers
XIV Contents.
PAGE
refuge on board my Ship — Mr. Hartog's Report of
McClure's Gulf — A Journey inland with the Rajah —
Aspect of the Country — Patipi Bay . . .171
CHAPTER XII.
BARTERING WITH THE NATIVES.
Segar Bay — Rajali Pandi — Picturesqueness of the Scenery
— A decayinsc Race — A Reception by the Rajah —
Negotiations for Nutmegs — A Crowd of Extortioners
— The Bird of Paradise — Clearing the Decks — I take
Spudeen's Advice ...... 195
CHAPTER XIII.
A CONSPIRACY TO SEIZE THE SHIP.
Spudeen laughs to scorn the Notion that the Flotilla of
Prows are leaving to buy "Sago — The Secret out — A
Slave-hunting Raid — Starting to the Rescue— A poor
little Captive — ^I adopt the Child — An Attack of Fever
— The Rajah proposes to seize the ship— Amongst the
Bentouni Men — The Post Holder of Gissor's opinion
of the Natives of New Guinea —A suspicious-looking
Prow — A Council of War — A plain Talk with the
Rajah — Encountering a Simoom — Kiliakat — In search
of Provisions . 211
CHAPTER XIV.
TROUBLESOME VISITORS.
The Island of Tarak — The Orang Bisar— Mineral Wealth
of Shemai — A self-assertive old Man — He gives me a
Contents, xv
PAGE
Piece of his Mind — I return the Compliment — A Visit
to the House of a great Man — ^"l^he Kajah of Ati Atf —
A Chinese Joss — I give the Pilot a Certificate — The
Bugis Captain and Moy — ^I succeed in warding off
Viengeance — A Present of Firearms .... 242
CHAPTER XV.
MOT PLATS ME FALSE.
The Island of Adi — Sending a Native in: search of the
Rajah — ^The Rajah arrives with a laden Prow — We fail
to come to Terms — ^Moy's Treachery — I send him
about his Business — ^Arogoni Bay — Nutmegs and
Tortoise-shells — A fertile Territory .... 265
CHAPTER XVI.
•'PROVTBTONS SHOBT, AKD ONTiT NOT A WRECK."
Dutch Charts — ^Nimatota — The Chinese Storekeepers of
Dobo— The Post Holder's Wife and the Policeman —
Off Ki Island in a Hurricane — At Bauwar — Breakers
under the Bow — My little Papuan Boy — ** Water,
water, everywhere, but not a drop to drink!" — A
straight Run for Australia — Mr. Macfarlane's Teaching
bears Fruit — ^A safe Return — ^Results of the Expedition
— Mahometans versus Kafirs — ^Responsibility of the
Government of the Netherlands — The Importance of
New Guinea to England and Australia . . . 276
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.
PA«E
Portrait op Captain John Strachan Frontispiece
The Chief's House at Saibai, South Coast op
New Guinea To face 32
The Exploring Schooner " Herald " at anchor
IN Mia Kasa Eiyer, opposite Strachan Island „ 80
Explorers Fraternising with Natives . . „ 104
Native Camp in centre op Strachan Island . „ 118
The Mission House, Mowatta, Teacher's Wife
AND Child „ 144
Village Scene, South Coast, New Guinea . „ 170
Alfuru Warriors at the head water of Mc-
Clure's Gulf, North- West New Guinjsa . „ 192
Natives of Bentouni, North-West New Guinea „ 222
HOEAMBATI, A NaTIVE OF McClURE'S GuLF, NoRTH-
West New Guinea. The first Papu'an broug ht
TO Europe „ 287
MAPS.
1. Map of 'New Guinea : Showing the explorations of
Captain Strachan, F.E.G.S.
2. Map op North-West New Guinea : Showing the explo-
rations of Captain Strachan, F.R.G.S.
8. Kew Guinea: Showing the explored territory west of
TOE Fly Eiver by Captain Strachan, F.R.G.S.
I
t
EXPLORATIONS
AND
ADVENTUEES IN NEW GUINEA.
CHAPTER I.
OFF THE COAST IN THE " FOI."
The Shape and Size of New Guinea — How my Interest in the
Island began — First Visit in 1874 — Appointed to lead an
Expedition of Discovery in 1884— Making a Start^ — ^Torres
Straits — Thursday Island — Purchase of the "Foi"— My
Crew — Scenery and Sport at Moa — At Anchor in the
Harbour of Mabiao — The War Canoes of the Natives —
The Mission Station — The Ormond Reefs — Billy's Confession
— Farewell to Civilization — Do wan Island — A false Alarm
— Scott — The best Man of my Party — A South Sea Islander
proves a Friend in Need — Jakobo— The Missionary — Shy lock
in New Guinea.
A GLANCE at the map will show hovering as it were
over Australia a great island which in appearance
resembles a bird. The "portion to the north-west may
be considered the head, McClure's Inlet the mouth,
B
Explorations in New Guinea,
the rugged mountain ranges which separate Gleevink
Bay from the Arafura Sea the neck, the part extend-
ing to the south from the De Groot River to the
Papuan Gulf, and from the Ambemo River to the
Astrolabe Gulf on the north the body, while the long
tapering Peninsula may be designated the tail. If
in addition to all this we regard the Islands of Talbot
and Saibai as the feet, we shall then have an interesting
specimen of a rara avis.
This huge bird extends for a distance, in an oblique
line, from the extreme north-west to the extreme south-
east, of 1200 geographical miles, whilst its extreme
breadth reaches 380 miles ; and the fact of its lying
under what in physical geography is known as the
rainbelt, sufficiently accounts for New Guinea being
the best watered country in the world. It is a land of
mountain and of flood, of rare and lovely birds, beauti-
ful butterflies, curious insects, and strange animals, and
it is peopled by wild, daring races of men who have so
incessantly waged war upon and devoured each other
that the country is now but sparsely populated.
My own interest in New Guinea began so far back
as 1869, by reading the following extract which was
affixed to an old map of Australia, executed under the
How my Interest in tlie Island began, 3
superintendence of Abel Tasman, by order of the
Dutch East India Company, and published by John
Harris in the year 1744.
The note, written in italics across the then unknown
track of Central Australia, was as follows :
'^ It is impossible to conceive a country that promises
fairer from its situation than this of Terra Australis, no
longer incognito as this map demonstrates, but the
southern continent discovered. It lies precisely in the
richest climates of the world. If the Islands of
Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, abound in precious stones,
and other valuable commodities, and the Moluccas in
spices. New Guinea and the Regions behind it must,
by a parity of reason, be as plentifully endowed by
nature.
" If the Island of Madagascar is so noble and plenti-
ful a country as all authors speak it, and gold, ivory,
and other commodities are common in the southern
part of Africa, from Meliuda down to the Cape of
Good Hope, and so up again to Cape Gonsalez ; here
are the same latitudes in Carpentaria, New Holland,
and New Zealand.
" If Peru overflows with silver, if all the mountains
of Chili are filled with gold, and this precious metal
B 2
Explorations in New Guinea,
and stones, much more precious are the products of
Brazil, this continent enjoys the same position, and,
ilierefore whoever perfectly discovers and settles it mil
become infallibly possessed of territories as rich, as
fruitful, and as capable of improvement as any that
have been hitherto found out, either in the East Indies
or the West:'
Having visited the coast of New Guinea and the
islands adjacent in 1874-5, when public interest
became attracted to this great, but little known Island,
I was induced in the beginning of 1884, to lead an
expedition thither from Melbourne, and passed north
by way of the inner route. Of the beauties of this
passage, so much has already been written, that it
would be superfluous on my part to inflict on my
readers any further account, and therefore without
additional preamble, I will begin the narrative of the
first Expedition to New Guinea, which I undertook to
lead in the spring of 1884.
After passing Haggerston, the Home, Cockburn,
and other islands scattered over the Coral Sea, we
entered the Albany Pass, running between the main-
land of Australia and Albany Island, from which
latter it takes its name. The little nooks and bays
En route to New Guinea. 5
with their strips of white coral sand beach, the varie-
gated foliage of the trees, and the green hills and
knolls on which browse the well-bred cattle of Mr.
Jardine, the oldest resident in these parts, combine to
furnish a scene of rare beauty and transcendent loveli-
ness. On the mainland are the handsome bungalow,
store-houses, boat-sheds, and all the other appurtenances
of a pearl-shelling station, while a part of Mr. Jardine's
pearling flotilla rides snugly at anchor in the Pass.
Scenes such as these excite the interest of the traveller,
and help to relieve the monotony of ship-board life.
After wending our way through the intricacies of
the Pass for a distance of five miles, we entered Torres
Straits, having the high island of Mount Adolphus on
om* right, the Sextant Eocks and Cape York on our
left ; we shaped our course thence for Thursday Island,
taking the channel between Horn and Wednesday
Islands, and were there boarded by the pilot, and soon
afterwards moored alongside the British India Com-
pany's Hulk in the Harbour of Port Kennedy. To
many people, Thursday Island, the most northern of our
Australian Ports, is but a name, few knowing the vast
amount of trade transacted on that far away island.
Mr. H. E. Chester, who, it will be remembered.
Explorations in New Guinea,
annexed New Guinea on behalf of the Queensland
Government, was at the time of our visit police magis-
trate and harbour master, and we found him to be
a well-cultured gentleman of considerable ability.
Thursday Island is of no great extent and somewhat
barren. Wandering over it we gathered a few seeds,
and saw some rare and beautiful butterflies, also many
birds of the parrot kind, but no animals indigenous to
the soil. The native Islanders, or Bingis — ^as all
natives of the Straits Islands are called — have migrated
to Prince of Wales Island, the coloured races being
represented by South Sea Islanders, Malays, and
Manilla men, who are imported by the pearl-shellers.
In accordance with our plan we here purchased a
small lugger of seven tons burthen which was named
the " Foi " (faith) ; when failing to procure a crew of
coloured boatmen, we determined, although the party
numbered only five including myself, to proceed on
our expedition.
On the 22nd April, 1884, having stowed everything
roughly, we got under weigh and beat a short distance
down the pass, where we anchored for the night, to
allow two of the landsmen to get sober.
At daylight on the following morning we were oflF
En route to New Guinea.
again, and after a long dreary beat with wind and
tide against us, succeeded in weathering Wednesday
Island about 2 p.m. The wind now being on the
quarter, the little hooker went merrily along, dancing
and prancing with as many capers as a young lady at
her first ball, to the great inconvenience of the
landsmen, who apparently found a seven-ton lugger
somewhat less suited to their tastes for sailing o'er a
lumpy sea than a seventeen hundred ton steamer would
have been. Night closing in, and my charts being
very general, I decided to run for Travers Island, and
anchor for the night It was dark ere we made the
island, so we could not get into good shelter, and had
to anchor in eight fathoms of water, hoping to get a
few hours of much-needed rest. But, as Burns sang,
" llie best-laid schemes of mice and men
Gang oft agley,"
for the wind blowing half a gale from the south-east,
and the tide setting out like a mill race against it,
kept the lugger rolling, moaning, pitching, and tossing
to such an extent as not only to banish sleep, but to
keep me anxiously awake the whole night, while some
of the landsmen became suddenly religious, and made
anxious enquiries as to the possibility of a capsize. But
8 Explorations in New Guinea,
the longest night must have a morning, and morning
dawned at last With the first streak in the east we
took up anchor and were off, shaping a course for Moa
(Banks' Island on the charts), and running along close
in shore, where the water is bold,* and the land high
and rugged. Huge granite boulders crop out along
the ridges, and the deep gorges and ravines are
heavily wooded with what we afterwards found to be
excellent timber. We passed many inviting little bays
with fine stretches of sandy beach, and as a heavy
squall was looming ahead, we ran for shelter into one
of the bays on the west side of the island, and came to
an anchor, sending one of the men ashore with a billy
and provision, and two of the landsmen with double-
barrelled guns to shoot pigeons. After seeing every-
thing snug and secure on board, my only sailor pulled
me ashore, where, stretching myself at full length,
first covering my feet and legs with sand, I fell asleep,
tired and weary with my long vigil, and when called
for dinner felt considerably refreshed by my short nap.
I subsequently started, in company with one of the
men, for a ramble through the island. Our camp on
the beach was rather prettily situated ; in our rear was
* Bold — ^nautical phrase meaning deep.
^^■»'
Description of Islands in Torres Straits. g
an old native camp, on our left a native burial ground,
the graves in which were surrounded by stakes; on
each grave was a large conch shell, while strewn over
the surface were numerous turtle skulls, and sticking
out of the centre an old paddle, some water bottles,
&c. The paddles were placed there, I suppose, to
assist the departed spirit in propelling its way through
worlds unknown.
Debouching into the bay are two streams of ex-
cellent fresh water, one of which we followed for some
considerable distance, through much luxuriant tropical
vegetation, until we fell across native tracks. These
we followed, but unfortunately we failed to fall in with
the Bingis, although they were, as we afterwards
learnt, closely watching us.
The principal timber on the island is the Bloodwood
tree, but cedar of a somewhat inferior quality is found
in quantity in the gorges.
On returning to the beach, I found the sportsmen
had returned, having failed to bag any of the
numerous gouras we had seen flying about, but they
brought back a Manacoda and two other birds, the
names of which were unknown to us. These were
cooked, and after supping gipsy-fashion and enjoying
10 Explorations in New Guinea,
the luxury of a bath in the limpid stream, I gave the
order to return to the lugger.
The tide had by this time receded, until the little
dingy was lying high and dry, full half a mile from
the water's edge, so reeving a sapling through two
straps, the men lifted it up and started to march
across the sand and coral reefs while I led the way.
As darkness had by this time spread its mantle o'er
the scene it was certainly as laughable a march as
could well be imagined.
Three of the men were stalwart fellows, while the
fourth was so diminutive that he was forced to raise
his hands over his head to take his share of the weight.
Suddenly the foot of one would sink in a crab-hole and
down he would go, bringing the other three, boat and
all with him. Then the party would go splashing
through one of the numerous little salt water lagoons
usually scattered over the surfaces of a coral reef,
making the phosphoric sparks fly in all directions,
recalling to me the words of the Phantom Horseman :
" Tramp, tramp, tramp, across the land we ride ;
Splash, splash, splash, across the sea."
However, after a good deal of amusement, we
reached the lugger where, setting an anchor watch, I
Description of Islands in Torres Straits. 1 1
retired for the night On the following morning, as
soon as the tide answered, we got under weigh and
shaped a course for Mabiac (Jervis Island on the
charts). Passing Bond Island the lugger's head was
laid so as to pass close to Passage Island, but the tide,
which in these seas runs with great velocity, swept us
imperceptibly down on top of the Jervis Reefs, where
fortunately, seeing my danger in time, I hauled up to
the northward until close to Passage Island, and,
sighting the beacon leading to Captain Brown's pearl-
fishing station, I ran down and was soon riding
snugly at anchor in the harbour of Mabiac. On
landing, I was met by Captain Brown, whom we had
previously encountered on Thursday Island, and after
an introduction to Mrs. Brown, I started across the
island to pay my respects to the missionary. As I
passed along, I was much pleased to see the care that
Captain Brown had taken for the comfort of his
people. The houses were all built of galvanized iron
and whitewashed, giving the station the appearance of
a considerable village. At the doors squatted women,
dressed in long robes reaching from neck to ankle,
while troops of little urchins were gambolling about,
dressed in full Adamite costume.
12 Explorations in New Guinea,
The native village of Mabiac is built in the bight
of a long sweeping bay on a plain, having as a back-
ground a range of hills which rise in gentle undulating
slopes to a considerable height. Lying on the beach
in front of the village were a fleet of from twenty-five
to thirty war-canoes, many of which measured from
sixty to seventy feet in length, and were decorated
with some pretensions to taste. They had a platform
in the centre, either for the warriors to stand on or to
carry passengers, and from this erection extended long
outriggers with canoe-shaped floats at their extremity
about ten feet long. The boatmen, or rather those
who paddle, stand in the bottom of the canoe at either
end having a grass plaited rope stretching from the
platform to each end of the canoe to steady them.
A stone's throw inland from the fleet was the
mission station, consisting of two neat little wattle or
daub cottages, with a small barn-like church of the
same material carefully fenced around. All these
buildings are whitewashed and have a very cleanly
appearance. I entered the enclosure and approaching
the missionary's house found his wife, a fat pleasant-
fac«d woman from the Murray Islands, squatting on
the floor nursing a baby. On enquiry she informed
Mission Work among the Islanders. 13
_> . ___■_ ■ ■■ _■___
me that as it was Friday her husband was conducting
service in the church. At my request she accom-
panied me thither, where I took a seat amongst as
attentive and decorous a conoreffration as I have ever
met, and the preacher — Achin by name — a native of
the Murray Islands, preached what seemed to be an
impressive sermon. Grouped on either side of the
building were the old men, and in the centre was a
highly raised seat for the Mamoos, or chief, and his
family ; the younger men occupied seats at the back.
Squatting on the' ground in front were the female
members of the congregation, and a corner near the
preacher was set apart for the youngsters — wild tricky
little rascals who kept punching one another and
making grimaces at me.
The service over, I introduced myself to the
preacher and requested his assistance in procuring
men to accompany me to Dowdie (the native name
for New Guinea) but only succeeded in extracting a
promise that he would not prevent the men from going
if they wished. I could not induce him to persuade
them to go.
On arrival at the house the whole of the men of
the village gathered round, and to them Achin ex-
14 Explorations in New Guinea.
plained what I required, when an animated discussion
took place, the only words I could distinguish being
•' Tugari " and " Dowdie/' both words being accom-
panied by a good deal of significant head-shaking,
which promised little for my success* I was therefore
not surprised when Achin informed me that Dowdie
was too far away, and contained wild Tugara men of
whom they were afraid, so after making a few trifling
presents to the missionary and his wife, I returned to
Captain Brown's station, pausing on the way to
look at the grave of an old brother mariner (Captain
Owen) who was unfortunately burnt to death, and to
whose memory Mr. John Bell, of Sydney, his employer,
has caused a handsome tombstone to be erected.
The evening was pleasantly spent in conversation
with Captain Brown, from whom I learned that his
station was one of the largest in the Straits, employing
over one hundred men and twelve vessels, all busily
and profitably employed in the pearl shelling. At
night I stretched my hammock on the verandah, and
in the moraing returned to the lugger, and set to work
to stow away everything ship-shape preparatory to my
long voyage on the coast of New Guinea. After a
hard day's work we had everything ready for a start
The Ormond Reefs. 1$
on Monday morning. Owing to boisterous weather,
however, and the tide not answering, it was Tuesday
before we were able to make a start ; then, however, I
followed the lead of one of Captain Brown's pearling
boats, whose Captain, Billy Tauna, had received
instructions to pilot me over the Ormond Reefs, which
extend north and south for a distance of twenty-five
miles.
The whole of the lee or western side being un-
surveyed and consequently not marked on any chart, I
had made up my mind to beat a passage to windward,
and then shape a course along the weather edge of the
reef where there were no obstructions, but as Captain
Brown very kindly profiered me the services of a pilot
I changed my plans. Through a misunderstanding,
however, I left the pilot boat, believing myself well
clear of the reef, and only discovered my mistake on
making the inner part of the eastern edge which I
followed round until noon, hoping to find a channel
through which to pass. Not succeeding in this I was
compelled to run back to Billy Tanna, who had
anchored, and was waiting with considerable anxietj,
fearing I was going to attenlpt to jump the reef, or, in
other words, force my way out through the surf. As
'
1 6 Explorations in New Guinea,
soon, therefore, as I anchored, Billy came on board in
a state of great excitement, exclaiming —
" Say, me think go jump um reef, suppose you do,
stone all same horse's head, make um hole in bottom,
then what me do? Captain Brown he tell-um me,
Billy, you see that lugger, you take um safe over reef,
or you look out."
Assuring Billy that the fault was not his, and that I
had not the slightest intention of crossing the reef, I
opened the ammunition chest, and taking out a bottle
of " three star," passed it to Walker, one of the lands-
men, with orders to give Billy and my own people a
glass of grog ; then, slinging my hammock, I turned
in. The grog having loosened Billy's tongue he soon
became garrulous, recounting his many exploits since
leaving his own sunny isle of Tanna some sixteen
years since, fourteen of which had been spent in the
Beche de Mer and pearl fisheries in Torres Straits,
during which period Billy had evidently been a gay
Lothario, having by his own account stolen no less
than forty women. He concluded the account of his
adventures by emphatically assuring his audience that
he was " one black rogue." Upon this one of my men
replied —
The Ormond Reefs, 17
" I don't think you are a rogue, Billy ; there is no
harm in stealing a woman.''
With glistening eyes Billy stretched out his hand^
and said, ^' Shake um my hand, you all same me, me
one black rogue, you one white rogue— we two rogues
altogether."
And he was right I laughed heartily, and turning
out took up the bottle, now half empty, with the
intention of locking it up, when Billy, holding my arm
said, " Tou no trouble, captain, give um me, I take
aboard." So giving him what remained of a bottle of
brandy I again turned in for the night.
Before sunrise on the following morning Billy came
on board. Getting under weigh, we were soon safely
through the intricacies of the Ormond Reef, and,
shaping a course for Dowan Island, I bade farewell to
the last link of civilization. The wind, which was
blowing strong from the south-east, had raised a short
nasty beam sea, compelling me to remain at the helm
the whole way, and we shipped a considerable quantity
of water, which materially assisted in washing the
cobwebs off two of the landsmen. All hands were
glad when at two o'clock I anchored under the lee of
Dowan.
c
1 8 Explorations in New Guinea,
■-
After dinner I landed, accompanied by two of the
landsmen, and we were met by several natives, to
whom we gave small pieces of tobacco and pipes.
Having informed us that on the island they had a
missionary teacher, they conducted us to his house,
and we introduced ourselves. He was a Bingi native
from the island of Maer, near Cape York — Whiteman
by name.
The island of Dowan is situated seven miles from
the coast of New Guinea, and is high and rocky,
rising fully twelve hundred feet above the level of the
sea, and containing a population of about sixty souls,
all of whom are missionary men.*
After introducing myself, I took a short walk
through the island, accompanied by an old man,
dressed in a shirt that had once been white, an old
battered hat, and ragged trousers, who informed me
that he was the Mamoos of Baigo. He quietly took a
pipe out of my mouth, put it into his own, and after
taking two or three long whiflFs, he quite uncon-
cernedly passed it back. Feeling tired, and finding I
could get no men here, I resolved to return to the
* Missionary men — *.c., men attending the Mission for
instruction.
War Canoes of the Natives, .19
lugger, my companion the Mamoos offering to take
me off in his canoe, as the two men had wandered
away into the interior of the island.
On the way to the beach we passed through a native
village, and were regarded with considerable amaze-
ment by two or three old women, while troops of little
naked urchins ran away screaming with fright, which
made the Mamoos laugh heartily.
A large war-canoe having been launched, I took my
seat on the platform, accompanied by several of the
missionary men. Rounding the point, I was amused
to see the consternation which our appearance caused
on board the lugger. The two men who had been
left on board seemed to be jumping about like a pair
of cats on hot bricks, but my amusement was soon
chanofed to alarm when I saw one of them issue from
my little cabin with my Winchester repeating rifle.
The other buckled on his revolver, which he drew
from the holster, and both appeared to be making
ready to fire upon the canoe.
Standing up with outstretched arms, I hailed to
know what was the matter, when they laid down
their firearms, and we paddled alongside. After
making the natives a few presents, and purchasing a
c 2
20 Explorations m New Guinea,
few cocoanuts and some yams which they had brought
on board, I dismissed them, requesting that they
would presently return to the lugger with the two men
who had been left ashore.
At sundown, however, when darkness had set in, I
became anxious, and was somewhat relieved at the
report of one of their guns on the beach, and I im-
mediately sent a man away in the dinghy to bring
them oti board. But when, after the lapse of half an
hour, he returned alone, I became still more anxious
for their safety. It seemed prudent, however, to wait
for daylight, when, getting under weigh, I beat round
the island until in front of the missionary's house, but
still there was no sign of the wanderers. At length I
stood close in and fired three shots from my revolver,
this being my appointed signal either for recall or
danger.
This soon brought them out of the missionary's
house accompanied by most of the men, women and
children of the village. Sending the sailor away in
the dinghy, to bring the two absentees on board,
assisted by Scott, — who, although a landsman, gave
promise of becoming an active sailor, — I put the
lugger round and stood away from the land until
Jakobo. 21
the dinghy pushed ofF from the shore, when I again
stood in and picked them up.
From the men I learnt that they had been very
kindly treated, and passed a comfortable night,
sleeping on mats in the Mission House. I then
shaped a course for Saibai, where I arrived before
noon and anchored in six feet of water.
A canoe came off from the shore containing Palen,
a South Sea Islander, who spoke very good English,
and who promised me great assistance in procuring
men for my main journey to the westward.
Prior to leaving Mabiac I obtained letters of
introduction from Achin to Jakobo, the head teacher
of the London Missionary Society's Mission in these
parts, requesting him to assist me in getting men, and
also to forward my correspondence to Captain
Brown of Mabiac. After seeing everything secure,
I gave to each of the crew a double-barrelled gun,
and allowed them to go ashore in the canoe for an
afternoon's shooting.
When Palen pulled me ashore in the dinghy, a
number of the leading men of the village came to the
beach, and to eax^h of them I presented small pieces
of tobacco and stopped for a few minutes' chat.
22 Explorations in New Gtiinea,
Suddenly a dusky lady with a head of hair which stuck
out on either side like a mop, a pair of dark flashing
coquettish eyes, and tattoo marks from mouth to chin,
marched up and taking hold of my hand in both of
her own, gave it a hearty shake and led me forcibly
away towards a neat little white cottage, where she
introduced me to her husband Jakobo, the missionary.
After giving away the few presents brought for that
purpose, I presented niy letters, which contained much
interesting news. Paleu wai3 then sent for, and a warm
discussion ensued. While the palaver was going on,
the principal men of the village dropped in, and after
shaking hands squatted round in a circle on the
matted floor. As the discussion proceeded, happening
to turn my head, I saw seated behind me an old man,
whose profile was the exact counterpart of Shylock in
the • Merchant of Venice ' — the hooked nose, the high
receding forehead, and the dark skin — each feature
distinctly Jewish, with a strong tinge of Moorish blood.
I stared at the old man until I grew positively
ashamed of ray rudeness, but at length, to break the
spell, I requested Palen to enquire if they had any
traditions concerning their first settlement at Saibai.
Then while Jakobo was trying to explain that some
Jakobo, the Missionary, 23
islands grew smaller, and others grew larger and the
natives shifted from one island to the other, I fell
asleep, and did not awake until called to go aboard,
when I found that the dusky lady had been careful of
my comfort, having placed a down pillow under my
head, and a covering over me.
24 Explorations in New Guinea,
CHAPTER II.
EXPLORING THE MIA KASA RIVER.
Polygamy at Saibai — The Pigs of the Village march ins: to
Church — Engaging native Guides — An armed Demonstration
at Biago— Dragging the Boat — Making the Entrance to the
Mia Kasa River — Discover two Tributaries, and name them
the Gregory and the Neill — An inland Sheet of Water —
Name two large Streams which empty themselves into the
Mia Kasa, the Tokuda, and the Bradley — Characteristics of
the surrounding Country — Is this a River or an Arm of the
Sea ? — I build Castles in the Air — We land and explore the
Country — A Scene of Enchanting Loveliness.
The island of Saibai is situated about three and a
half miles from the coast of New Guinea, and is long,
low, and swampy. The village is built in a little
muddy bay, and contains from thirty to forty houses,
which are raised six or eight feet above the ground
on posts. This is necessary, on account of the
swampy nature of the island. The inhabitants number
about one hundred and thirty. Polygamy is practised,
and although all are professedly missionary men,
An amusing Incident 25
they are not yet suflSciently Christianised to be
content with one wife. The young women are well-
made, and not bad-looking, but they soon age, and
then the best word for their appearance is " hideous."
There is a fine cocoanut grove stretching right round
the bay, which supplies the people liberally with food
and drink.
While sitting talking to Palen one afternoon, I saw
a sight which was certainly unique, for it was neither
more nor less than the whole of the pigs in the village
marching decorously to church! As grunter after
grunter passed sedately along, I enquired the meaning,
and was informed that, Divine Service being held every
Friday afternoon, the men were all at church, and the
pigs, being pets, had gone there also to find their
masters, while the boys had scampered ofi^ into the
swamp after my fellows. For this they had all to
appear before the missionary and the Mamoos in the
evening, and would probably have received a severe
wigging had I not interceded for them. (I have often
been questioned as to how these pigs behaved. I can
inform my readers that they behaved very much like
many Christians — that is to say, they listened to the
singing and snored through the sermon.)
26 Explorations in New Guinea,
Collecting the Mamoos and principal men of the
village, I — through the interpretation of Palen —
requested that from four to six men might accompany
me as boatmen and interpreters, a service for which I
offered to pay liberally.
" He can pay — he got plenty of things ; he no all
same Beche-lura fellows (Beche de Mer men) ; he no
trade — he come from Melbourne, look all about/'
At the word Melbourne they seemed nonplussed,
and scratching their heads, kept repeating "Mel-
bourne," until Palen said, " You savey, Syd-eny."
Oh, yes, they all **savied" Sydney. *'Well," said
Palen, '* Melbourne all same bigger Sydney, as Sydney
bigger Saibai.''
Now as the village only contains some thirty houses,
I can hardly conceive what their idea of the extent of
Melbourne can be ; but in spite of Palen's persuasion
only four men could be induced to accompany me for
longer than a fortnight. As this would not suit me, I
determined to push on with the few men I had brought
with me — they were only four, and in two of them I
had no confidence* The arms, too, had proved very
inferior — mere Birmingham rubbish. Out of four
double-barrelled guns, two were already useless, and
Farewell to Saibai, 27
altogether, my prospects for the future were ominous
and dark.
I overheard on the same day a rather amusing
question asked of Palen by one of my men, a servant
who wished to be considered a bit of a naturalist.
Walking up to Palen's house, and leaning one arm on
his gun, and with the other akimbo, the would-be
naturalist said, with all the affected drawl of a Bond
Street exquisite, *' Palen, have you the Paradisea
Rubra here?" To which Palen readily replied,
"No savee." I here interposed with, "Some fel-
low red pigeon come here, Palen?" To which he
replied, "Oh, yes, plenty fellow come over from
Dowdie."
I pointed out the absurdity of attempting to jabber
Latin with a black fellow, and leaving Mr. " Paradisea
Rubra " to digest the rebuke as best he could, returned
to the lugger.
After a short trip over to New Guinea in the
mission boat, during which nothing occurred worth
recounting, I determined to make a final start on
Monday morning.
. On Sunday morning many earnest prayers were
offered for our safe return by our kind friends the
28 Explorations in New Guinea,
missionaries, and by Jakobo; indeed, I had the
satisfaction to learn that I carried with me the best
wishes of the whole village. On Monday morning,
after bidding a kind farewell to our friends, who came
off in numerous canoes to bid us good-bye, we got
under weigh and steered for the west.
The coast here being unsurveyed, the charts gave
no information, and I had an anxious time winding my
little craft through the numerous sand and mud banks,
to say nothing of the coral reefs, which must always
render the navigation of these seas dangerous, and I
was glad to come to an anchor opposite the little
village of Biago, with whose Mamoos I have already
mentioned our meeting on Dowan.
Our arrival had evidently thrown the inhabitants
into a state of consternation, as all the men gathered
on the point, armed to the teeth with bows, arrows,
spears, and a red flag flying moreover on one of their
canoes. Seeing we paid no attention to their hostile
demonstrations, they plucked up courage, and, launch-
ing a canoe, four of them came off, bringing cocoanuts
and yams, which I purchased, and then went ashore
with them and bought some poles, which I required to
make bulwarks round the lugger.
An Experience of the New Guinea Coast, 29
This village only consisted of five houses, and from
twenty to thirty people, most of the natives having
been killed and eaten some three years since by the
Tugara men from the west.
Upon my return to the lugger, Scott and two others
went ashore to shoot pigeons, in which they were not
very successful, and in getting back they had anything
but a pleasing experience of the New Guinea coast
It being low water, they were compelled to drag the
boat several hundred yards through a soft mud flat,
often sinking waist-deep in mud and water, and obliged
to flounder and sprawl about in all directions. When
at last they succeeded in reaching the lugger, covered
with mud fi'om heel to head, they were in anything but
a cheerful frame of mind, and although assured that
they had caused us on board a good half-hour's amuse-
ment, and many a hearty laugh, they did not seem to
understand where the joke came in.
On the following morning, Tuesday, May 7th, as
soon as the tide answered, we got under weigh, and
steering north-west for a distance of five miles to clear
a mud bank, we hauled the lugger up to north, and
shaped a course for the Mia Kasa River, the entrance
of which we made at 9 a.m., when we were agreeably
30 Explorations in New Guinea,
surprised to see before us a broad sheet of water full
two and a half miles in width, and very deep.
The lead, which had been kept constantly going since
leaving Biago, never indicated less than five fathoms,
and as we entered the river the water deepened rapidly
to seven and eight. The land on both sides was
comparatively low and densely wooded. After sailing
some five miles, we opened out a large tributaij stream
full half a mile wide, which I named the Gregory.
From this the land begins to rise, the banks being
about twenty-five feet high.
With a strong south-east trade wind, and the flood
tide in our favour, we sailed rapidly up the river at
the rate of fully ten knots an houn For the first
twenty miles we steered north-half-east, then bore to
the north-west through a long wide reach for some
seven or eight miles, where we found another river
debouching into the main stream from the eastward.
This I named the Neill, and on its north bank we
found the remains of an old native camp ; but although
we carefully scanned the banks on both sides, we saw
no sign of natives.
Passing the camp, we again headed to the north-
ward, through a short reach about three miles long.
A River or an Arm of the Sea ? 31
which opens out into a magnificent sheet of water
running due west for a distance of fourteen and a half
miles. Into this two large tributaries empty them-
selves from the northward; the larger named the
Tokuda, after my friend the Imperial Commissioner
for Japan, and the smaller the Bradley, after my friend
Mr. Bradley of the firm of Bradley and Sons of
Melbourne.
Sailing through this splendid sheet of water, I was
pleased to see the land rising in gentle undulating and
heavily wooded slopes, while the soil, which hitherto
had been principally red clay, had now changed to a
rich chocolate.
At the end of this reach the river again trended to
the north-west, but darkness coming on I brought up
for the night in eight fathoms of water well pleased
with my first day's work in New Guinea, having made
an actual distance of fifty-six miles, sailing over a
broad, deep, and rapid stream, and passing what
appeared to be magnificent country on either side.
In fact, during the day, I could not help thinking
that we were not sailing on a river at all, but were
on an arm of the sea, which would in all probability
extend across the whole island from south-east to
32 Explorations in New Guinea,
north-west opeuing into the Arafura Sea at that part
known to the Dutch as the Utanata River; and I
built a good many castles in the air in consequence,
hoping we had found a new channel to China and the
East. The many rivers too, which we had passed
during the day, helped to convince me that I had
made a discovery of great value — and one which I
fondly hoped would cause jny name to be transmitted
to posterity. Setting an anchor watch, I retired for
the night, and dreamed that I was piloting large
steamers through New Guinea.
Making a fresh start at daylight, we continued in a
north-west direction for a distance of some ten miles,
when right ahead we saw what appeared to be the end
of navigation — the gulf seemed to terminate in a bay,
and all my air-castles of the previous day came down
with a vengeance. However, I determined to push on
and land at the end of what appeared to be a bay,
where it was purposed to remain for a few days in order
to explore the adjacent country and then to return and
proceed along the coast to the westward.
My feelings can therefore be better imagined than
described when passing a small jutting point I saw
coming from the north and trending at right angles
/ build Castles in the Air, 33
across the Mia Kasa to the south-south-west a noble
river fully a mile wide, while a fine open country came
into view, with numerous cedar, black walnut, and
other trees of value.
My people were very anxious to be allowed to land
and explore hereabouts, but having made up my mind
prior to starting that I would run to the end of
navigation, and then trust to Providence and my own
judgment, to take me safely back, I would not consent
but pushed onward as fast as wind and tide could
carry me. Moreover, I did not know but that our
track was being closed in by hostile natives.
During the afternoon, we passed a clump of cocoa-
nut trees, and then another river from the eastward,
and at night brought up off the mouth of still another
large river, having penetrated ninety miles into New
Guinea in two days.
The water here had lost its saltness, but was still
too brackish for use; the river, too, had narrowed
down to about five hundred yards in width, and its
depth had decreased to five fathoms.
At daylight we again set sail, but having lost much
of the tidal influence, and the wind being light, did
not make much progress, only covering a distance of
D
34 Explorations in New Guinea,
— 1 1
fifteen miles by nightfall when I anchored in a very
pretty bend of the stream fringed with the broad-
leaved palm, which I named Scott's Bend, after the
best and most faithful man of my party.
The river here being narrow, it became necessary to
keep a good look out, I therefore kept the first watch
myself. As I sat, rifle in hand, listening to every
sound and straining my eyes watching, I was startled
to see a war-canoe shoot rapidly round the point.
With rifle at full cock I gazed eagerly forward,
debating in my own mind whether to call the hands,
when I was relieved to see that what I took for a
canoe was only a Palmyra-palm floating down with
the stream. Then crashing through the palms on
the river banks, came some huge amphibious monster,
which, plun^ng into the water, disappeared from
view.
Incidents such as these, combined with the dismal
bellowing of the bull-frog and the hoarse croaking of
numerous night birds, make solitary vigils, in a strange
and, in all probability, hostile country, anything but
pleasant.
In the morning I determined to explore the
surrounding country for some distance, more especially
I !■ I—I-.
We land and explore the Country, 35
as the timber looked heavy and valuable. I took a
tomahawk, revolver and rifle, and Scott, who accom-
panied me, carried an axe and his revolver.
Landing, we entered some splendid scrubland,
composed of rich black vegetable mould, and wooded
with many kinds of timber, the principal being black
walnut of excellent growth. I noticed several cedars,
but these were very sparsely scattered through the
forest, and many other trees that were entirely new
to me, notably one bearing a fruit as large as a
cocoanut, the rind of which was about a quarter of
an inch thick, but the kernel bitter and nauseous to
the taste, containing much tannin. On either hand
were huge black walnut and other trees.
Handling his axe with a will, Scott soon felled
one of these monarchs of the forest to the ground,
and hailing for a cross-cut saw, we cut it into lengths
and found it to be a black walnut of excellent quality,
sound to the core and beautifully marked.
Having completed our task we started forward on
our inland trip. Scrambling through much heavy
tropical vegetation for a distance of some five miles
we entered the open country and here found the
high grass teeming with life, noting especially the
D 2
36 Explorations in New Guinea,
huge red kangaroo (the Euro) and Wallaby, and in
the gulleys the stately Cassowary. Crossing through
the scrubs we saw some iguanas, many of them three or
four feet in length, which ran up the trees at our
approach. Having proceeded so far as it was safe
we returned to the lugger.
By the side of every stream and in every swampy
hole were numerous pig tracks, but we saw no pigs,
as they only leave their lair in the thickets after
nightfall. We also came across several nests of the
Megapode {Megapodivs tumvlus), a peculiar bird
about the size of a barn-door fowl, dark brown in
colour with a craning neck and tufted head, which
raises a mound or hillock often twenty-five feet high
and from thirty to fifty feet round the base, in which
to deposit its eggs, leaving them to hatch by the
internal heat of the nest. At night the parent pair
sit on the tree branches overhead making the woods
resound with their cry.
In the afternoon I made another start up the river
and with the dinghy ahead towing, and two of the
men plying long oars or sweeps, succeeded in making
a distance of ten miles before dark.
In the morning Scott and I landed, and scrambling
.^< ' —- • ■ ■ IJI , ■ ■ 5,
A Scene of enchanting Loveliness, 37
»^™' ■■■■Ml II ■ I ■ ■■ ^ ■■ I ■■■■■^■11 »^»^^^^^^^^»^»^^i»^»^«^^^^^^^^^^^^M^^^^^^^^^,^1^^p— — ^^ ■ ■ ■ ■
up a bank about thirty feet high we came on a fine
open plain stretching away to the northward, while
on our right was a dense forest, which we entered^
trying the timber with our tomahawks as we proceeded,
but finding nothing new. We had, however, a narrow
escape from being bitten by a long slender snake,
which disappeared like a lightning flash down its
hole.
Returning on board before noon, I succeeded in
getting good observations, and was therefore able to
determine my position. Finding we were only ten
miles from and running at right angles with the
great Fly River, we made another start after dinner
and after covering some twelve miles, we anchored
in a beautiful little reach lined on both sides with
borders of broad-leaved palms with high land ahead
heavily wooded.
After supper two of the men, although tired with
their long spell at the sweeps, took the dinghy and
went for a short pull up the river but returned in
a state of great excitement, reporting that they
had seen one of the most lovely and brilliant
sights possible, and urged me to go and look for
myself.
38 Explorations in New Guinea.
Taking Scott with me in the dinghy we now
leisurely pulled up stream. It was a calm still night,
and the sheen of the moon shone resplendent on the
placid waters of the river ; long avenues of broad-
leaved palms glistened in the silvery light, whilst
the large trees in the background were illuminated
by fire-flies. Presently we stopped, entranced by a
scene which for enchanting loveliness surpassed any-
thing 1 had ever seen before.
The country we had already passed wa^ beautiful,
but nothing to be compared with this. We sat gazing
enraptured on a pyramid of living light, suspended as
it were by threads of fairy gold. On a huge black
walnut tree there had gathered myriads of fire-flies,
. which, moving through the dark foliage as if to the
time of some enchanter's music, presented a scene of
exquisite loveliness, which it is impossible to describe*
As the fiery mass revolved, now up, now down, then
round, as if to the measured time of a dance, my com*
panion in ecstasy exclaimed, " Captain, I would work
twelve months for nothing to see such a sight as this."
Alas I he little knew how short his life was to be. We
returned to the lugger, and permitted my people,
who were enchanted with a scene so lovely and so
Birds of Paradise, * 39
rare, to pull up and down the river until far into the
night.
In the morning, as. the river had now narrowed to
about eighty yards, and was much obstructed by
snags, I determined to remain until I had surveyed
ihe river in a small boat. Taking Scott with me in
the dinghy, we pulled up the stream for a distance of
fifteen miles, until we were finally stopped by a fallen
tree, which was stretched across the stream from one
side to the other, and completely barred our further
progress.
During this trip we saw several red birds of Paradise
(Paradisea rvhra\ also one or two twelve-wired
birds of Paradise (Paradisea nigricans) while many
beautiful racquet-tailed kingfishers of brilliant
plumage were flitting about on the river banks.
Landing in several places, we found the same
grand country composed of rich black soil, with much
excellent timber and still not the faintest trace of man
having been there before.
We returned to the lugger, and the next day being
Sunday we enjoyed a well-earned rest. On Monday
I let three of the men go up the river, while Scott and
I hauled the lugger alongside the bank. Landing,
40 Explorations in New Guinea,
we travelled up the ridge until we attained a height of
some four hundred feet, from whence we had a good
view of the surrounding country..
Away to the south was heavy forest-land, rolling
away to the east were grand undulating plains of
magnificent country, while at our feet rolled a deep
rapid river. The dense forest and high land to
the north and west obscured our view in these
directions.
As I stood contemplating the scene before me, my
mind wandered away into the not distant future, when
the axe of the woodman would make the welkin ring
again, when the plough of the husbandman would
turn up and sweeten the soil, when, instead of the
vast primeval forest stretching away on every hand,
the sugar cane and maize crops would wave on that
virgin soil. I pictured the time when the placid
waters of the river would be lashed into foam by the
propeller, the huge monarchs of the forest be broken
down by the saw, and the juice crushed from the cane,
— ^all by the mighty power of steam. I thought how,
in days to come, standing on some such spot as this,
the colonial youth, proud of the race from which he
sprang, and contemplating the scene before him,
A Peculiar Little Fish, 41
would turn with pardonable pride to the wondering
Papuan by his side — and pointing to the busy engines
say:—
"See yonder, where these engines toil,
There Britain's piide and glory are.
The trophies of a nation's spoil, in bloodless war —
Brave weapons these.
With these she digs, she weaves, she tills,
Pierces the everlasting hills.
And spans the seas."
Returning to the lugger we set to work to fill up
our water casks, and then amused ourselves watching
a peculiar little fish, about three inches long and
marked on either side with three black spots, shooting
out a tiny jet of water to a distance of some eighteen
inches, drenching the unwary fly which then fell an
easy prey.
On the return of the boat, i tripped the anchor and
dropped down the stream for a few miles, and then
brought up for the night. During the passage I
examined many places but saw nothing new, and at
last, anchored at the mouth of the large tributary I
have already mentioned as being ninety miles inland,
which I named the Wallace, after my only son. This
42 Explorations in New Guinea,
we followed for a distance of seventy miles through
the same class of country, and then returning to the
main stream we proceeded towards the coast
During this trip up the river we suffered severely
from heavy rain and thunderstorms, the effects of
which were felt by all.
( 43 )
CHAPTER IIL .
AK OVERLAND JOURNEY.
The Junction of the Mia Kasa and Prince Leopold Eivers —
Determine to return to Saibai to get more Men — A Fleet of
Canoes sweep into Sight — Hemmed in by hostile Natives^—
Compelled to abandon the " Foi," and march over Land — An
Infidel and a Coward — On the March — ^Arrive at the Bank
of the Gregory River — Our Raft sinks like a Stone — Crossing
the River with Cowards who cannot swim — Scott to the
Rescue — The Revolver as a Help to Decision — ^Encounter a
huge Python — ^Li Sight of the Sea at last — Scott's Gallantry
— ^A last Farewell to the brave Fellow — Once more at Dowan
— False Charges — Lord Derby publishes my Letter of Vindi-
cation — ^A few Months' Rest in Sydney.
In the passage down the main river we landed on
the only piece of poor soil we had seen in New
Guinea, a cold clay plain covered with hematite
l)oulders and dotted over with huge ants' nests, and a
few stunted honeysuckles. Retracing our course we
lurived at the junction of the Mia Kasa and the main
stream which I had named the Prince Lfeopold, after
the late Duke of Albany.
44 Explorations in New Guinea,
Turning down to the south-south-west, we passed
three large rivers setting down from the westward and
fell across a native camp, but still no sign of the
natives themselves. Being now near the coast I felt
convinced from the size of the camp that we were in
close proximity to a large body of natives, who would
most likely prove hostile, and whom, owing to the
weakness of my force and the inferiority of our arms
I was in no condition to meet. I therefore decided to
return to Saibai and get more men at any cost. We
got under weigh and returned to the Mia Kasa, where
I anchored for the night.
On the following day we had a long weary beat
down the river, and at three o'clock, when opposite the
Tokuda river, I was startled to hear what seemed at
the time to be the report of a rifle in the forest.
Towards evening the wind dying away, and the strong
ebb setting down, we made rapid progress and it was
long after dark ere I anchored at the end of the Short
Reach in twenty fathoms of water. About eight
o'clock, I thought I could see the reflection of two fires
far down the river. At four o'clock in the morning,
the watch called me to report that he heard another
rifle shot in the forest ; for which he had to stand a
A Fleet of Canoes sweep into Sight 45
considerable amount of chaff from the others on
board.
To me the report caused grave anxiety, more
especially when, after getting under weigh, I saw
ahead, and paddling swiftly down stream, and close
into the mangroves, what appeared to be a canoe.
My glasses were brought to bear, but the glare of the
rising sun being in my eyes prevented my seeing
clearly.
Not wishing to alarm my people, I told them it was
only a piece of driftwood, and dismissed the matter
from my mind until nearing the mouth of the river.
Then we passed a tree which had stuck in the centre
of the stream, and which at a distance had the
appearance of a man standing up in a canoe. I then
grew anxious, and kept carefully scanning the mouth
of the river on both sides, when a whole fleet of canoes
suddenly swept round the point from the westward,
and another fleet round from the eastward, completely
blocking the mouth of the river.
I grew seriously alarmed, and with a cry of, " To
your arms, men!" leapt below, and, opening the
ammunition chest, passed up a good supply of
ammunition. Then, buckling on both my revolvers.
46 Explorations n New Guinea.
and grasping my Winchester repeater, sprang again
on deck, where I stood with outstretched arms calling
out"Pouda, pouda" (Peace, peace). Upon this the
canoes paddled rapidly towards us. Dropping one
arm, I made signs for only one canoe to approach, but
as they paid no attention to my signals, I fired a shot
across the bow of the nearest canoe, upon which they
struck up the war song and paddled rapidly up the
stream to meet us.
It was a grand and imposing sight, for no less than
twenty or thirty canoes were assembled, each con-
taining about forty men, great stalwart fellows,
whose tawny black skins glistened in the evening
sun. The whole line advanced in good order, the
men paddling to the music of the song, while warriors
on the platform beat time with the butt end of their
spears.
■
I ordered my people to fire a volley, in the hope of
frightening them, but as the shot fell short, they
yelled back defiance. I kept blazing away with my
Winchester, but could not intimidate them, and as the
nearest canoes were now within one hundred and fifty
yards of us, I up helm and ran back up the river, at
the same time firing off* a rocket. This fell short, near
Compelled to abandon the " Foi!^ 47
the foremost canoe, and made them pause until the
others came up. I then fired a second rocket, which
fortunately fell in their midst, and caused them to fall
back into the mangroves on either side.
The wind dying away, and darkness setting in, I
was compelled to anchor to prevent the lugger drifting
down amongst them. I then fired my third and last
rocket, which was answered by yells of defiance and
the brandishing of fire sticks right down to the river's
mouth, a distance of five or six miles, which showed
me the impossibility of escape. At the same time it
let me know that the enemy had landed, and we had
little to apprehend until the tide turned at midnight,
when I knew we should be attacked on all sides in
force. I therefore caused a torpedo to be made out of
a tin trunk, in which I placed twenty-five pounds of
gunpowder, and ballasted it with two 28-lb. bags of
buck-shot, and, having attached a fuse, set it adrift.
After floating about half a mile, it exploded with good
effect, bringing back to us another chorus of yells and
a second edition of the fire stick business.
As escape by water was clearly impossible, I now
determined to abandon the " Foi," and march over land
to Saibai. After serving out a glass of grog to the
48 Explorations in New Guinea,
men,* 1 told them my plan, at the same time calling
for a yolunteer to remain with me on the lugger and
%ht it out. (This I did for fear it should be said
that I abandoned the lugger through cowardice.)
Finding there was no one eager to remain and die,
I gave orders to haul the boat alongside, and, in-
structing Scott to mix salt in three 7-lb. bags of
oatmeal and then make the whole up in a bundle,
served out to each man a necessary quantity of
ammunition, tobacco, matches, and other necessaries.
Then, getting them all into the boat, we slipped the
chain and laid the lugger's head up the river, deter-
mined if possible to make for one of the tributaries
which would take us to the eastward, and then to
abandon the craft and strike due south for Saibai.
On casting my eyes astern, I saw the whole fleet
paddling silently and rapidly up towards us. There
was not a moment to be lost, so, lashing the helm
in order to make the craft sail up mid-stream, I
stepped into the boat and, hauling it ahead, pulled
•
* It may here be mentioned that in all my explorations
while carrying a case or two of the best brandy for medicinal
and other purposes, it has been the rule of my life never to
taste it myself.
March over Land. 49
away in a line with the vessel until enveloped in the
darkness, when I edged the boat under the mangroves,
and, pulling up stream for a distance of some two or
three miles, landed in a small creek. Here, after
seeing everything ashore, we swamped the dinghy,
and sent it adrift, so as to make the natives think it
had capsized and that we were drowned.
We marched half a mile inland, clear of the man-
groves, and then camped at the back of a hill for the
remainder of the night. Telling the men to go to
sleep while I kept watch, I soon had the pleasure of
hearing them all snoring loudly.
As I sat on the damp ground nursing my rifle,
reflecting on the fact that I had lost my fine little craft,
and that within a mile of us were twelve hundred can-
nibals, who were thirsting for our blood, my condition
was not to be envied by the proverbial English
gentlemen who sit at home at ease. Presently I was
startled by the sound as of some heavy animal creep-
ing towards me, with a peculiar noise as of the crack-
ing of a pair of castanets.
With rifle in readiness and kneeling on one knee,
I strained my eyes in an endeavour to pierce the
darkness, when I was relieved to find that it was
£
50 Explorations in New Guinea.
one of my own men who, unable to sleep from fear,
approached, and with chattering teeth and quavering
voice said —
"D — d — do you th — th — think you will save us,
captain ? "
He had been the greatest braggart of the party, a
professed infidel, and when the time for action came
he proved himself an arrant coward.
I therefore replied, " I have been in worse positions
than this, and the same God who guided me through
them can guide me through this if it is His will. But
there, you dont lelieve in OodJ^
To which he whiningly answered, " I — I — I believe
in Providence, captain."
I then said " We only want another brush with the
natives to make a Christian of you," and ordered him
to go to sleep.
At daylight I called the men from their damp
malarious bed, and striking away to the south-east
made a march of about six miles, when we crossed a
native garden, and then, getting entangled among the
mangroves, floundered about for an hour. Issuing
from this swamp we entered some clear forest land
and then made the Gregory River. After an hour's
On the March. 51
rest we struck away to the east to clear the numerous
bends of the river.
Leading the way, with the men following in Indian
file, I forced my way through numerous cane-brakes
and at last entered some fine open country. Over
this we travelled until dusk, when we camped in a
small belt of timber on the plain, having cut down
saplings and undergrowth to make a mia-mia.* We
spent a miserable night, for the rain fell in torrents,
and the numerous pigs rooting about the camp added
not a little to our discomfort Daylight dawned at
last, and after a breakfast of oatmeal and biscuits we
were glad to be once more on the march. During the
forenoon we had heavy travelling through the cane-
brakes, but towards noon made open country until we
again touched the river.
Believing we were sufficiently clear of our enemies
to cross without being seen, I determined to make the
attempt. Judge then of my surprise on reaching the
river bank to learn that of all my party only Scott
could swim. Before leaving Melbourne, I had been
careful to enquire whether each man, if put to the
push, could swim, and each and all assured me they
* A one-sided hut — ^something to shelter from the wind.
E 2
52 Explorations in New Guinea.
could. And now here we were with twelve hundred
bloodthirsty savages in all probability close on our
track and a river five hundred yards in front, and only
one other man besides myself capable of swimming the
distance.
I debated rapidly in my own mind what was best to
be done, and selecting two trees which we thought
would float, we felled them, and cutting them into
suitable lengths made a catamaran. Then having
cleared a traek right through the scrub we carried
our rude raft to the river bank in readiness to be
launched.
We then retreated about a hundred yards to the
plain and formed a camp, and as soon as darkness
closed in, the men were told to get some sleep, and to
take as much rest as possible while I again kept my
weary vigil.
About nine o'clock, I imagined I could hear a
soiihd of human voices as if singing. Calling one of
the men, I requested him to put his ear to the ground
and listen, but he apparently could hear nothing. I
then called Scott, who imagined he could hear the
sounds, but thought them to be only the night sounds
peculiar to the forest
Our Raft sinks. 53
At twelve o'clock the men were called, and we
launched the raft, which, to our utter dismay, sank like
a stone. At the same moment a canoe shot rapidly
round the point. I ordered the men back to the
plain, until well clear of the timber, when we camped
for the remainder of the night, drenched with rain
which chilled us, and stung by myriads of ants, we
having unfortunately seated ourselves on one of their
nests.
At daylight we tramped painfully along, and I
began to feel my strength failing, having had little or
no sleep since Friday night, and it was then Tuesday.
I therefore stopped at nine o'clock and rested for three
quarters of an hour. Then we again marched onward
until half past ten, when we lighted a fire and made
some porridge which warmed and strengthened us all.
At noon I determined to have two hours' sleep, and
leaving two of the men on watch with instructions to
keep a vigilant look-out and to call me on the first
sign of danger, even if they saw so much as the tall
grass waving more than usual, I stretched myself at
the foot of a tree, and soon fell asleep. My eyes
could scarcely have been closed more than half an
hour, when I was awakened by a roar from one of the
54 Explorations in New Guinea,
men who simultaneously fired off one barrel of his
gun.
Starting up, rifle in hand, I saw standing on the
brow of the hill about a dozen natives armed to the
teeth, and yelling their war cry of " Woo hoo, Woo
hoo.'* With a cry of "Follow them up, lads," we
began firing rapidly amongst them, when we were
gratified to see by the unsteady motion of the natives
that their hearts had failed them, and their arrows,
which were drawn to the head, were let go without
either aim or nerve* As we drew near they threw
away their bows and arrows and ran, and I imme-
diately gave the order to cease firing.
A random shot of the natives had unfortunately
wounded one of my men slightly in the great toe, the
arrow having gone clean through his boot and his toe.
I examined the arrows to see if they were poisoned, and
was pleased to find that they were using such weapons
as were generally carried for hunting purposes.
Believing the party we had dispersed to be only the
advanced guard of a numerous force, I again
determined to make the river, and cross it at all
hazards.
We accordingly proceeded due south, and at length
Scott to the Rescue. 55
reached a creek across which Scott and I with much
difficulty succeeded in dragging the other three. We /
left them on the banks to rest, while we prospected the
river bank for a piece of wood that would float them
over. Providentially, we found a large piece of
bamboo sufficient to carry all the party across, could
they be trusted to retain their presence of mind.
Having launched the bamboo, and placed the men
upon it, we pushed it oflT from the shore, Scott with
one hand holding the fore-part of the bamboo, and
swimming with the other, myself at the other end
doing the same. No sooner were we out of our depth
than the three men, who had been instructed to lie
low in the water, jumped on the bamboo forcing it
under*
One of them letting go, grasped me round the
neck. I was already heavily laden, and consequently
we sank like stones.
Shaking him off, he rose to the surface, and was
grasped by Scott, and carried safely to the bank* I
attempted to rise, but with the weight I carried,
could not succeed in doing so, having a Winchester
slung over my shoulder, a heavy bag of ammunition on
one side, a bag of journals on the other, two revolvers,
56 Explorations in New Guinea,
a bowie knife and a tomahawk in my belt, while each
pocket was filled with ammunition.
Throwing off my rifle, the ammunition bag, and the
journals, in less time than it takes to tell the tale, I
was enabled to rise to the surface when my faithful
henchman Scott leapt in and, grasping me, assisted me
to the bank thoroughly exhausted. The case was now
desperate, so much so that I was tempted to abandon
these three men as worthless and leave them to shift
for themselves.
But my duty was clear, either to take the men safely
back or die with them. It was therefore decided that
Scott should carry them over one at a time on the
bamboo, while I kept guard on the bank.
When this proposal was made known to them, a
question arose amongst them who should go first. I
finally ordered the men to proceed as instructed by
me, and Scott started with one man on his perilous
journey, which was safely accomplished, and he
returned for another, with whom he again crossed in
safety, leaving me on the bank with the poor creature
already spoken of as believing in Providence. This
man sat at the foot of a tree talking to himself.
It was a pitiful scene — a man of thirty-two years
The Revolver as a Help to Decision, 57
of age, who had been the loudest talker of the party,
sitting weeping like a child, and asking himself
questions which ran thus : —
**You wanted to come to Dowdie, Charlie, you've
got to Dowdie and you'll never get out of it. If you
do get out of it you'll never come back again, will
you, Charlie? It'll kill your mother — it'll kill your
mother, you're her only son, Charlie, you know you'll
never get back out of it, you'll never cross that river,
Charlie, you woa a fool to come."
On Scott's return with the bamboo raft, tired with
this fellow's chatter, I said sternly —
" Have done : get ready to cross the river."
He replied " I can't cross, captain, you'll have to
leave me."
Drawing my revolver from its holster and placing
it at full cock I replied, " I will leave you, but I will
be able to swear wher^ I left you."
" You wouldn't shoot me, would you, captain ? " he
whimpered.
" Oh no," I replied, *' not shoot you, only leave you
in such a position as to know where to find you.
Come, cross the river."
Scott also urged him, saying, " Come, come, get on
58 Explorations in New Guinea,
to the bamboo, there is nothing to fear in the water if
you only keep your presence of mind."
As with a miserable whine he said, " I Euppose it
is as well to be drowned as to be shot," we succeeded
in placing him on the bamboo, where he lay in such a
position that those of my readers who know anything
of Eastern life will not fail to recognise it by calling to
mind the manner in which a Chinaman carries a pig.
All being safely across, I also jumped in and swam
over.
Having drawn the arrow from and dressed the
wounded man's foot, I cut him a stick as a support,
and we again proceeded on our weary journey.
Having reached a distance of four miles, and crossed
several native tracks, we camped on a bare plain for
the night
Here it may be mentioned that in crossing the
river we had lost the whole of our oatmeal except
one small bag, and this being saturated with salt
water had become mouldy, so that we had now
nothing to eat, and as it rained all night we had
to shiver through it as best we could. Bad as was
our plight, exhausted nature caused us to sleep by
fitful starts.
On the March, 59
Rising betimes, and walking about briskly to keep
our blood in circulation, at daylight we again started,
following a general south-east track. In the tall
grass, kangaroo, wallaby, and cassowary sprang up
almost at our feet, but we dared not fire for fear of
attracting the natives who might be in close proximity.
Our matches were all destroyed, and had we so wished
we had no means of lighting a fire, as the sun was
obscured and our sun-glasses were consequently useless.
About noon we came to a belt of scrub where we
found a native track. Creeping through it, we came
upon a recently cut sapling, evidently cut by a stone
hatchet. Crawling on hands and knees to the edge
of the scrub I saw before me a native hut and a native
leaning against a tree as if watching for something.
Holding up my hand as a signal for the men to
stop and to keep silent, I returned and again made for
the open plain and led the men to the edge of the
scrub belt which we skirted until clear.
I now determined to change my course to due
south and make the ocean. After marching for
about three hours over a splendid country we came
to a track covered with screw-palms and flooded with
water. The ground here was very rugged, and for
6o Explorations in New Guinea,
an hour we floundered about in all directions. We
emerged on a piece of fine country and came upon a
cocoanut grove.
None of us being in a condition to climb the trees,
it was suggested by the men — weary, worn, and
starving — that a tree should be felled for the purpose
of getting at the fruit This I forbade, believing that
in future intercourse with the natives, with whom I
hoped to establish — ^and have since established —
friendly relations, tlie bare fact of having destroyed
one of their trees might raise within them a hostile
spirit
Crossing a knoll, we descended into what may in
truth be called a "dismal swamp." Knee-deep in
water, with the malarious vapour rising to a height of
from fifteen to eighteen feet above our heads, the
leeches sticking to our legs until our very boots were
filled, and the water around stained with our blood,
we tramped wearily onward.
Night was coming on apace, and the trees, which
are known as a species of the Eucalyptus, and in
common phraseology as the paper-bark, presented no
branches on which we could rest for the night It
seemed as if we should have to pass the night up to
A huge Python, 6 1
our knees in water, with the leeches sucking our
blood, when fortunately, as we were beginning to
despair, that Providence who watches over man in his
extremity, raised before us a small dry spot in the
middle of the swamp.
Having cut for our couch a number of bad-smelling
swamp bushes, which were, however, but little better
than the oozy ground itself, we lay down to sleep, but
not to rest, and all were thankful when daylight
dawned. Before starting on the march, T placed about
three grains of dry quinine on every man's tongue with
the point of my bowie-knife to kill the malaria.
Leaving our island, and again steering due south,
we went splashing along, myself leading the way,
when presently 1 was startled with a cry of "Hoo
hoo " from Scott, this being the war-cry of the natives.
I drew my revolver, and, placing it at full cock,
turned sharply round, believing the natives to be in
our rear.
With blanched cheeks Scott stood pointing to the
tree over my head, when, looking up, I saw to my
astonishment a huge python coiled round the branches,
his head within three and a half feet of my own,
and his huge glassy eyes looking down upon roe.
62 Explorations in New Guinea.
Pointing my revolver at his head, I stepped slowly
backward, and the men gathering romid, we held a
consultation as to what we should do with his snake-
ship. Finally it was decided, as we were afraid to fire
for fear of attracting the attention of the natives, that
we should act as the wise men of Gotham did, and
leave him to shift for himself.
Again resuming our march, we passed through a
rather pretty piece of swamp, like a small artificial
Jake, on which floated gracefully numbers of beautiful
white ducks with black wings. The ducks glided
away at our approach. We next came upon a pair of
megapods picking up their morning meal alouc^ide of
the mound. Had we had time to dig into the mound
we might possibly have found some of their eggs, but
being anxious to reach the sea, we pushed onward.
At about 11 A.M., as near as I could guess, for my
watch had stopped in crossing the river, and we had
no means of telling the time, I heard the welcome
sound of the ocean surf, and in about two hours I
beheld, with feelings of indescribable joy and pleasure,
that friend of my life, — the sea.
No words of mine can depict my feelings on again
beholding the ocean over which for so many years I
On the March. 63
had sailed. A feeling of safety and of hope seemed to
inspire me, and added new vigour to my exhausted
body.
We had now been without food for over two days,
when providentially we saw before us a bed of mud-
oysters. We sat down and, with tomahawks and
bowie-knives, opened the oysters, and using our
mouldy oatmeal, made what to us, who had not tasted
food for days, seemed a sumptuous repast.
Again starting forward, we tramped along, some-
times knee-deep in mud and slime, until our course
was interrupted by a narrow, deep, and rapid stream.
Fortunately the water was fresh, and by using our caps
we were able to have, after our oysters, a good drink
of rather coarse, swampy water.
The difficulty now presented itself of crossing this
stream. Fortunately after walking along the side for
some hundred yards we found a fallen tree stretching
from bank to bank. Across this we scrambled, and
again proceeded forward, working almost due east
until night came on, and we camped among the
nrangroves on a dry piece of ground.
Froili entering the dismal swamp until now, our
tortures from that pest of mankind, the mosquitoes,
64 Explorations in New Guinea,
had been indescribable. They swarmed over face,
hands, neck, and even under our clothing, and our
whole bodies were swollen with their stings. Indeed,
so much disfigured were we, that one man of the party
could barely recognise another.
The night wore away, and in the morning such was
our hunger that we were glad to gather the snails
from the trees and eat them as we proceeded onward.
We soon came to another stream, when, selecting a
tree of sufficient length, we lay to with our toma-
hawks and felled it across the river. Here again we
were fortunate in the water being fresh.
This weary tramping continued for three days,
until we reached a point opposite to the island of
Dowan, where we were again fortunate in finding rock
oysters.
On this night, owing to the influence of the malaria
and the torture of the mosquitoes, we decided to
perch all night among the branches of the niangrove
trees.
The next morning my feet, which were poisoned and
swollen by the leech bites and the swampy water, were
so painful that I had to cut my boots off and crawl
upon my hands and knees for about a mile, where we
Scotfs Gallantry. 65
found the remains of an old village directly opposite to
the island of Saibai. There was a great deal of
bamboo strewn about, and Scott proposed to make a
raft and cross over to Saibai for assistance.
This I strictly forbade him to do, assuring them
that so soon as the sun — which by the way we had not
seen for some days — shone out, and we could make a
fire, the natives would come over to our rescue, for I
had before leaving made arrangements with the
Mission teacher and the chief that, in the event of
their seeing a fire on the beach, they would guess who
it was and would come over to our relief.
The men became clamorous, and complained that I
wished to keep them until the natives, whom they
believed to be following on our track, would be upon
us. They were assured that there was not a hostile
native now within a hundred miles of us, but Scott
being extremely anxious to make the attempt, and as
by this time I could not stand, I at last reluctantly
gave my consent. A raft was made, and at slack
water between the tides the brave fellow started oflF on
his voyage.
As he left the strand he grasped me by the hand,
saying, ** Good-bye, Captain, God bless you ! Til get
F
(:6 Explorations in New Guinea,
. ' I- I ■ ■ ■-' — -■ - ■ -
safe across ; " to which I replied, " Good-bye, Scott,
God bless and speed you! but, remember, you are
going against my wish and against my judgment."
Pulling myself up a tree, I watched him until three
parts of the way across, when he suddenly disappeared.
No help coming the next day, I felt sure that he was
lost.
On Tuesday, 3rd June, the sun shone out with
unusual brilliancy. By the aid of my sun-glass a fire
was lighted on the beach, and on Wednesday the
Mission boat came over with five native teachers and
rescued us from our perilous position. In the boat
they brought tea, clothing, and food. Black though the
skins of those men were, their hearts were kind and
Christian-like. Their cries and lamentations and their
tears of joy at our rescue will for ever be indelibly
impressed upon my memory.
Arriving at Dowan, Jakobo and the dusky lady
his wife, mentioned in the early part of this narrative,
were found awaiting us. Carried from the boat to the
Mission House, by her I was carefully nursed, and
tended with almost affectionate care.
Here I found that they had seen no trace of Scott,
but I still hoped that he might have again made the
Once more at Dowan. €y
mainland at a point a few miles higher up than our
position. Accordingly, on the following morning the
Mission boat started out to search for him, and tracked
the coast right along, accompanied by one of my men,
but the boat returned without finding the slightest
trace of Scott or the raft. I felt that my worst fears
were verified, and that the best, the truest, and the
most noble man of my party was, through my weakly
yielding to others against my own experience and
judgment, lost — for time, but I pray God not for
eternity.
He was a noble fellow throughout the whole of this
perilous expedition, as this narrative shows. He stood
by my shoulder as a faithful companion and friend :
wherever I led he followed, and when it became
necessary for me to remain, he led.
A native-bom Australian, a son of whom Australia
may be proud, — b, native of St. Arnaud in Victoria, —
his loss has been the one great sorrow of my life.
Nothing more was to be done.
The pain of my foot became so excruciating that I
could neither rest nor sleep, but thanks to the tender
nursing of Janee (Jakobo s wife) and the attention of
every teacher of the London Missionary Society, I
F 2
68 Explorations in Nevj Guinea,
soon began to mend. The kindness I received from
these dusky natives proves conclusively to me the
power of the grace of God over the human heart.
When sujQSciently well to travel again, their boat
was got ready, and we were taken back into civilisa-
tion.
Here, dear reader, should end the narrative of my
first expedition to New Guinea, but it is incumbent
upon me to refer briefly to a disagreeable matter
which I had to face on my return to Sydney.
On arrival in the South, the outrageous and uncon-
scionable lying of some of my party, the very men who
at the risk of my life I had dragged from death, and to
save whom my faithful companion and friend had
sacrificed his life, gave rise to the publication of sensa-
tional matter in certain sections of the public press,
wherein I was accused of blowing up three canoes and
killing a hundred men with dynamite, and shooting
four hundred and fifty men in the plain. Mr. David
Gaunson, M.L.A. of Melbourne denounced me in the
Parliament of Victoria as a "red-handed murderer
who had tramped through New Guinea knee- deep in
blood."
To myself, personally, these reports caused little
A few months' Rest. 69
annoyance, but they occasioned great grief to the
members of my household.
Some of my best friends advised me to take legal
action, but this I declined to do, as the papers which
had published the reports were respectable, and, had
these reports been true, I should have deserved to
have been brought to condign punishment. I there-
fore contented myself ty writing the particulars of the
case to the then Secretary of State for the Colonies,
Lord Derby, making an offer to justify and vindicate
any act or acts of mine in New Guinea before a pro-
perly constituted tribunal.
Lord Derby caused this letter to be published in
Australia for public information, and a revulsion of
feeling was evoked in consequence, and I was allowed
to rest for a few months and recruit my shattered
health, ere I resumed my work of exploration in New
Guinea.
70 Explorations in New Guinea. \
CHAPTER IV.
I START ON MY SECOND EXPEDITION IN THE
SCHOONER *' HERALD."
At the Instance of some of the leading Citizens of Sydney, I
again take the Field in 1885 with a good Schooner and
Steam-Launch and a Party of eighteen Men — Sad Changes
at Do wan — Gouii's Widow and Children — Two of my Men
treat the Natives hadly — I send for the Mamoos, or Chief —
A Visit to Jakobo — ^The Hero of the Kiver Bank threatens to
kill me — Pinno secures two Interpreters for me from his
Flock at Baigo — Steaming up the Prince Leopold River — At
the Mouth of the Kethel River — A Shower of Complaints —
Shooting native Dogs — Taming a Savage — A Papuan Beauty
— Taking a Photograph of the Members of the Expedition.
After the proclamation of Her Majesty's Pro-
tectorate over the southern portion of New Guinea,
and the appointment of Major-General Sir Peter
Scratchley as Special Deputy High Commissioner, it
was urged upon me by some of the leading citizens
of Sydney that it would be good service on my part,
not only to the Commonwealth of Australia, but also to
the native races themselves, to equip and carry out a
second expedition to open up the country for settle-
Sad Changes at Dowan. ' 71
ment and commercial enterprise on a just and equit-
able basis. The opinions of these gentlemen being
favourably commented on by the press of New South
Wales, I again took the field, and having secured a
good schooner and steam-launch, and a party of eigh-
teen men, in 1885 I once more sailed for New Guinea
on. my Second Expedition.
Once more we steered our course towards the north.
Touching at a Queensland port, and making three
anchorages in the Inner Route, we duly arrived
at the island of Dowan. When I left some few"
months before, Dowan contained a population of
about eighty souls, living in a neat little village
in the bight of a bay.
In the little Mission House on the point lived
Whiteman, the teacher, with his wife and children.
Here too are the teachers of the London Missionary
Society accustomed to come from the malarious
districts round the coast of New Guinea, to recruit
their health and recuperate their fever-stricken frames.
As I landed and approached the Mission House, a
death-like stillness seemed to reign over the island.
As I drew nearer a solitary man emerged from the
teacher's house. I asked for Whiteman, and was told
72 Explorations in New Guinea,
that he bad removed up the coast to KooninL I
enquired after his wife and children, and also after
Gouri, one of the men who had been most kind to me
when rescued from New Guinea on my last expedi-
tion.
* Taking me by the arm, the man led me into the
little enclosure round the church, and pointing to a
grave, said, " Whiteman woman there," and to another
grave said, "Gouri there." And for name after name
that I asked, he showed me a grave.
I then asked for Gouri's widow and children, when,
pointing to a natural arch formed by three huge
granite boulders, which had been thrown up by some
convulsion of nature, he called my attention to a poor,
emaciated, fever-stricken half-naked woman, lying
under the shelter of the stones, and two little naked
children running about.
My mind flew back to my own condition some
few months before, and to the kindness of her late
husband.
I leapt the fence and ran towards her.
The poor creature seemed frightened, and held
up her hand and motioned for me to go away.
I waited until the Mission House keeper came up,
GourVs Widow and Children. 73
who could speak some English. Through him I asked
her —
" Are you Gouri's woman ? "
She replied, "Yes."
I said ; " When I had no clothes, Gouri give me
clothes ; when I had no food, Gouri give me food ;
when I had no sakooba (tobacco), Gouri give me
sakooba : you would not be afraid of Mr. Macfarlane,
would you ? Don't be afraid of me ; Gouri's dead.
Now you have no clothes, I give you clothes; you
have no food, I give you food ; you have no tobak, I
give you tobak." (This tobacco was given to purchase
the services of the other natives.)
Ordering the boat off to the ship for a supply of
sugar, tea, biscuits and tobacco, I returned to the
graveyard.
To the right was all that remained of a once
populous and lively little village. The deserted houses
were dilapidated and falling to decay. Around me
in mound after mound were the graves of those
who a few short months ago had appeared in the
very vigour of health and strength. The village which
had contained eighty souls now only contained twenty —
eight of whom were men, the rest women and children.
74 Explorations in New Guinea,
I cast my eyes to seaward, and then along the
swampy shores of New Guinea, and I asked myself
what is the meaning of this ? Can it be that it is the
will of the Great Maker that these poor creatures who
but twelve short years before lived upon the flesh of
man, have, through the influence of that glorious
Society (the London Missionary Society), been allowed
to realise the blessed truths of the Gospel, and then
taken from the face of the earth ? I fear it is even so.
My heart was full, and as I looked upon the graves of
some of those whom I had hoped to repay for the
kindness shown to me and mine, in bitterness of spirit
I asked myself the question. Would it not have been
better to have left them in all ' their original savagery ?
But quick as thought the answer comes : ^' No, dear
reader, no." Rough, rude sailor though I may be, I
realised the fact that these people having once gained
that " peace which passeth understanding," death was
robbed for them of its sting.
The boat returned to the shore, and the men
approached with arms full of biscuit, sugar, tea,
tobacco, and other necessaries ; the little ones in their
innocence of childhood were made happy with a
biscuit each ; a billy was put on the fire of the Missioa
GourVs Widow and Children. " 75
House, and with pannikin in my hand I sat down by
the side of the dying woman, and soaking pieces of
biscuit, gave them to her to eat. She seemed to have
lost all power to swallow the biscuit, but gratefully
drank the tea. Daily I visited her until the little ones
ran towards me at my approach, the instinct of child-*
hood teaching them that they had found a friend.
Could I have succeeded in inducing the mother to
take medicine, I should, in all probability, have saved
her life ; but the great trouble with the natives is, that
when once fever-stricken, or attacked by any epidemic,
it is almost impossible to get them to take medicine or
to observe the necessary precautions for recovery.
For instance — when the measles swept through the
Torres Straits and Murray Islands, the stricken na-
tives in order to cool their heated bodies rushed into
the water and came out to die.
Walking through the island during our visit on one
Xjccasion, I came upon two of my men talking to a
native, who was standing with a single cocoanut in his
hand. The men asked the native for it, but he wanted
to know what was to be given in exchange. One or
^two little native boys were also standing round. Th6
native said he would not give his cocoanut for nothing,
76 Explorations in New Guinea,
but if the men gave him a little piece of tobacco, they
might have it.
Upon this one of the Europeans said, " Give him a
clout under the ear and take it away ; that is how we
used to serve the natives when I was in India."
Stepping forward, I told one of the small boys to
run for the Mamoos or chief, and to tell him to come
to me quickly.
On his approaching, I touched him with my fore-
finger on the breast and said, " You Mamoos ? " then,
touching myself on the breast, I said, ** Me Mamoos,"
then holding up two fingers, I said, "Two Mamoos.
Suppose some fellow belong me " (the men were stand-
ing by waiting to see what was to come) " take some
things some fellow belong you, you speak me," and
crossing my hands, I continued, "and I tie um up.
Suppose some fellow belong you, steal some thing
some fellow belong me, me speak you, you tie um up."
He answered, " Good, captain, good I "
I then ordered them on board the ship, and they
slunk away muttering to themselves, were discontented
for the rest of the expedition, and on returning to
Sydney said that I was too tyrannical to go to sea
with.
A Visit to Jakobo. 77
Before proceeding to the westward, I made another
trip to Saibai in a native canoe, for the purpose of
presenting to Jakobo and Janee the presents I had
brought for them as some token of the gratitude and
respect entertained for the uniform kindness to myself
and party, both before leaving that island and more
especially when rescued on my last perilous expeditiom
For Jakobo and Janee jointly I carried a large
illustrated family Bible, with a suitable inscription,
which was interpreted to them by the son of Dr.
Samuel Macfarlane. From my wife I carried for
Janee herself needles and thread, two small boxes of
Quoing Tart's best tea, sugar, clothing, and toys for
her child, and to Jakobo I gave a large quantity of
tobacco, knives, tomahawks and axes.
Before leaving Dowan for Saibai, I was told by the
natives that the man who made such a conspicuous
figure in my last expedition, and who so suddenly
believed in Providence, was on the island, and that he
had been talking loudly to the natives that he was
waiting for me to go over to New Guinea, so that he
might shoot me for what I had said about him in the
south. I therefore went over alone and unarmed.
The pleasure of the natives at meeting me wad
78 Explorations in New Guinea,
great, and without delay I proceeded to give away
my presents ; Janee was overjoyed with hers, Jakobo's
delight in his large Bible was almost childlike. The
natives gathered round him, and it was plain that
from the vivid word painting of the missionaries they
quite understood the pictures, as they could be heard
calling out with ejaculations of delight the names
of those whom the pictures were supposed to represent,
" Abram, Mosee, Jakobo, Jesu."
Janee, who had slipped out, came running excitedly
into the house and taking both my hands in her own
said — " Captain, captain, you know Charlie, you know
Charlie, Charlie he here.*'
Lifting my coat, she looked to see if I carried my
revolver, and then felt my haversack, then folding her
hands together, her cheeks somewhat blanched, said,
'*Away, away," and spoke rapidly in the vernacular
to Jakobo, who said something, and two little boys
ran away and came back with the two chiefs attended
by some of the principal men of Saibai. Then taking
me by the hand she led me to the door and pointing
across the swamp said, " There Charlie, he kill you."
I saw the hero of the river bank swaggering with
gun on his shoulder and revolver hung to his side.
A Visit to Jakobo. 79
while a troop of little boys followed him carrying three
ducks. Some tea having been prepared I sat down to
ity and as this gentleman arrived at the door, I arose
and looked him straight in the face.
He looked the other way and hurrying past me
slung his gun and his three ducks in the corner,
muttered something and walked out, and when last
I saw him he was leaning over a stump about a
quarter of a mile from the village.
Jakobo lifted the gun — a breechloader — to see if
it was loaded, and finding that it contained no
cartridge, he said that this man had sworn that he
had come up specially to kill me, and seemed very
much surprised when I laughed at the idea.
Night coming on apace, Annu, the Mamoos, got
Jakobo's large canoe ready to return with me to the
ship.
• After bidding a kind farewell to Janee and Jakobo,
we pushed out of the little muddy bay and paddled
until we cleared the westernmost point of the island.
The wind was blowing half a gale from the south-east,
the mat sails were set and the canoe fairly leapt over
the waters. A short lumpy sea was rolling, but
Annu at the steering paddle was evidently a master of
8o Explorations in New. Guinea,
^ ■- - _
his work, for the huge unwieldy craft seemed to leap
over the waters like a thing of life. Those who have
been used to boat sailing can have no idea of the
exhilarating pleasure there is in sailing before a strong
breeze over a lumpy sea in a well-handled Papuan
canoe.
We arrived at the ship at eight o'clock, when a
diflSculty arose as to how I was to pay these men. At
this particular season of the year the edges of every
water-hole were lined with wild duck and geese. The
men who were so fortunate as to possess muskets were
very eager to obtain ammunition, but this the law
distinctly forbids the white man either to give or to
sell to the natives under a penalty of three months'
imprisonment without the option of a fine.
Being anxious to accommodate those whose kindness
to me had been so uniform, I was placed on the horns
of a dilemma, but having confidence in their integrity,
and being anxious to serve them while keeping within
the strict letter of the law — for the white man already
mentioned being on the island might be trusted to
take the first opportunity of reporting any neglect to
the authorities — I at last decided to place the required
ammunition on my cabin table. Having done this I
A little Spotted Cuscus, 8i
lit my pipe and went on deck to give some orders to
my officers. On my return the natives had all left
my cabin and some of them were in the canoe.
I gave the chief an American axe in addition
to some tobacco, and on returning to my cabin I
missed a twenty-eight pound bag of No. 4 shot, half
a dozen half-pound flasks of powder, and a box
of caps.
The following day we got under weigh and steered
for the westward on the track of my previous ex-
pedition, and in due course anchored off the village of
Baigo. Although dark a canoe containing Pinno, the
Mission teacher (who has since been killed and
eaten by the Tugara men), came ofl^ from the shore.
As he was one of the boat's crew who, with Gouri and
others rescued my party from New Guinea, it became
necessary for me to give him some suitable reward,
which I did to his entire satisfaction.
On the following morning he returned to the ship
with Garougi the chief and Auiti his son, and brought
us a present from his wife — a little spotted cuscus*
I explained to Pinno the object of the expedition,
* A tree-climbing animal of the opossum kind, peculiar to
New Guinea.
G
82 Explorations in New Guinea,
and requested him to use his influence to get two
interpreters to accompany me, as it was my intention
to make a comprehensive exploration of the interior
of the country. This he promised to do, and I
accompanied him ashore to his house, where, after a
long discussion as to pay, &c., matters were satis-
factorily adjusted, and Garougi, the Mamoos (who,
the reader will remember, took the pipe out of my
mouth when I landed at Dowan in my first expedition),
and Auiti agreed to accompany me for two weeks
only.
Made wise by the experience of the previous
expedition, I agreed to these terms, trusting so to
conciliate them when away from their homes that they
would be willing to remain with me for any reasonable
time that I might require their services.
At daylight on the following morning they came on
board, accompanied by Pinno, who desired to wish us
God-speed on our journey. After bidding Pinno
farewell we again got under weigh, and, with tKe lead
constantly going, we entered the Channel — which I
have already described in my first expedition — having
iD two days made fifty-six miles.
The schooner was brought to and anchored, and
P^^nV^i9^PWWi^*<l*VPV^^WV^^x)- " 'W P»-yi« ' vBv^^vn^w in pwa n ■' ■ ^ ^'^^ -^^*«'— _ , <— ■ --*-iv^ ^j*^?-^
Steaming up Prince Leopold River, 83
the steam launch was brought into requisition, in
which we steamed up the Prince Leopold River to
my old ninety-five mile mark, and we returned
to the schooner, as I had decided not to explore
the Wallace River, but to confine our operations
mainly to a comprehensive exploration of Strachan
Island.
Our water supply becoming scarce — and even at
the ninety-five mile mark the water of the river was
brackish — we decided to return nearer the coast,
where Garougi assured us we should find an abun-
dance of water. We therefore followed the Prince
Leopold, and after a beat of two days reached the
mouth of the Kethel River, being now only eight
miles firom where the interpreters assured us there was
plenty of fresh water. At daylight we got up steam
and proceeded towards the mouth of the Prince
Leopold — the distance must have been nearer twenty
miles than eight. At length we came to the mouth of
a narrow creek, up which we steamed.
As we proceeded up the creek the scene beccime
very beautiful. The mangroves disappeared ; beauti-
ful shrubs and noble trees covered the creek side, and
these, together with the many rare and flowering
G 2
II mm,tM I.
84 Explorations in New Guhtea,
creepers and sword-shaped bean-pods, proved the
fertility of the land, whilst at almost every pufF of the
engine innumerable birds of varied and gorgeous
plumage took to flight, startled at our approach.
After proceeding about three miles, the creek became
so narrow as to barely leave room to turn the launch.
It therefore became necessary to haul her into the
bank and make her fast. Leaving two men in charge
of the launch we landed, and after a sharp walk of
two-and-a-half miles we came to some fresh water at
the head of a creek.
The distance being altogether too great to admit of
watering the ship, we contented ourselves with filling
our buckets and returned to the launch. Ere we were
able to make a start on our return journey darkness
set in, and it was three o'clock on the following
morning before we reached the ship. Although
anxious on account of the scarcity of water, I could
not but be impressed with the fertility of the country,
and I determined — for a time at least — to make this
ray base of operations.
When daylight broke, the launch was hoisted on
board and the two engineers set to work to convert
the launch's boiler into a condenser, with which we were
A Shower of Complairits. 85
able to condense from thirty to forty gallons of water
per day. My anxiety being thus relieved, we got
under weigh and beat a passage down the river to the
mouth of the creek, where we arrived at four o'clock in
the afternoon. I allowed a party of my men to land
accompanied by Garougi and Auiti, and to form a
camp in the vicinity of the watercourse.
On the following morning I landed, and proceeded
to the camp, where I was greeted with a shower of
complaints. One man had been found asleep in his
watch, and another had been calling one of his
companions names, and several of them had been
reviling each other. That which raised my in-
dignation most, however, was when perhaps the most
treacherous man in my ship led me aside and pointing
to two native dogs with bullet holes through their
heads, asked me if I did not think they were beautiful
shots.
I ordered a hole to be dug, and buried the dogs ;
being in the vicinity of a native camp, the dogs had
wandered away into our camp to be shot. Anticipat-
ing trouble from this injudicious act, I ordered all
hands on board the ship, after which I told oflF a party
consisting of seven men, my second oflScer and the
"^P^^PI»^^^^^^^P"^"*^^»"^^^'^*^ "I JJI^ I '■ l"»l«»IJ»» .^J^JP 1
86 Explorations m New Guinea.
two interpreters to accompany me on the following
morninff.
Shortly before dawn we left the ship and proceeded
to the old camp, and then, while breakfast was being
prepared, accompanied by the interpreters and two
men, we proceeded cautiously to the native camp.
Scrambling down one side of the creek we clambered
up the other and came suddenly upon the natives all
fast asleep. Garougi hailed them, when starting up
like frightened deer with a yell they leapt from their
hard beds and rushed into the forest, making the
w^oods resound with their cries of " ou mogie oua, ou
mogie oua, du mari, du mari " (Be friends, be friends,
don't fight, don't fight).
We captured one poor deformed creature who,
being lame, could not run off with the others. His
terrified appearance was pitiful, his palpitating breast,
and every limb shaking as with palsy, his teeth
chattering and eyes rolling depicted overwhelming
terror such as I had never before witnessed. I tied a
handkerchief round his neck, and a piece of red cloth
round his waist. I then took my own pipe out of my
mouth and put it into his, but he let it fall to the
ground. I patted him on the head and back and
■*' ^^^ >-.^«^^^HVf««BPmviB«MM^MHBVHm
Tamhig a Savage, 87
chafed his hands in mine. I then put my hand on his
pulse and put his fingers on mine while Garougi, all
excitement, first patted him on the shoulder and
then patted me. Then taking my hand he placed
it in his and shook ihem, saying " du mari, du mari."
Calling the men up, I got some sugar and put
it into his mouth, but so agitated was he that it
fell out.
While this was going on, Auiti, who could run like a
deer, had followed the rest of the tribe into the forest.
By persistent kindness we in a measure allayed
this poor deformed creature's fears, and at last suc-
ceeded in getting him to sit down alongside of me
on a log. It may here be mentioned that while
Garougi kept repeating " du mari, du mari," he pulled
his beard, but the significance of this act I do not
understand.
For over two hours this man and I sat on the log
until he became thoroughly calm and confident. My
own men, too, behaved well, each one giving him some
little present, and showing tokens of amity. All this
while the woods were ringing with the cries of the
natives who had scattered on either side. Having
fairly pacified him we made him numerous presents,
88 Explorations in New Guinea.
and Garougi sent him away to tell the others that we
had come as friends, and not as enemies.
Instructed by Garougi, he shook hands with myself
and each member of the party and went away slowly
as if loth to go, laden with treasures which would make
him the richest man of his tribe.
Garougi now gathered all the bows, arrows, and
spears which were slung on every bush around the
camp, also a stone club of considerable weight, with
a handle made from the creeper or cane known as the
" lawyer " — a formidable weapon. These were all
placed in the centre of the camp and formed a con-
siderable heap.
After Garougi had left us, we examined the camp,
but did not touch one article belonging to the natives.
There were net-bags, hanging on sticks, headdresses,
bamboo pipes, combs, pigtails used as charms, women's
grass waist cloths, bamboo knives, daggers made of
cassowary bone, a few yams and tara here and there,
some sugar cane, and numerous fires were still
smouldering. Having completed our examination w©
sat down in the centre of the camp, to discuss the
situation.
Presently we heard a rustling as if of some one
A Papuan Beauty. 89
coming through the brushwood, when, emerging from
the scrub, with her baby on her shoulder, came a
tall woman of commanding appearance, perhaps one
of the most stately of her sex that I have ever
seen. We got up, and I approached her, holding up
a pipe and a stick of tobacco ; but she rejected them
with a gesture of disdain, and pointing towards the
river where the ship was lying, with a wave of her
hand she spoke some words which we interpreted to be,
" Go back to your ship, you ugly-looking villains, how
dare you come and disturb our household ? " Then
picking up a net-bag and her baby, which she had
placed on the ground, she threw the bag across one
shoulder, sat the baby astride the other, and strode
majestically away.
The time now seemed to pass slowly, and my
anxiety was intense. With the exception of the two
men and myself, the remainder of our party was
scattered in twos and threes through the country, and
we longed for the return of Garougi and Auiti, so that
we might return to our camp.
At length Garougi returned, and clearing a space
in the middle of the camp, broke c^ some green
boughs, one of which he stuck in the ground and to it
90 Exploratmis in New Guinea,
tied some clay pipes and a few sticks of tobacco, then
with his foot he made some symbolic marks on the
ground, laying the remainder of the boughs in different
positions. We then started back to the camp, where,
after breakfast, I had the party photographed,
Garougi being on one side of me and Auiti on the
other
( 91 )
CHAPTER V,
ON THE MABOH THBOUGH NEW GUINEA.
A fine Stretch of open Forest Land — Grarougi as a Diplomatist —
The Entrance to Prince Leopold River — ^Forsyth Island, and
the Trouton Group — I name a Tributary of the Leopold the
Herald, after my Schooner — ^Well-cultivated native Planta-
tions — ^How to Climb a Cocoanut Tree — A graceful young
Savage — An almost impenetrable Scrub.
We now decided to travel inland, so, dividing the
party into two, and leaving one to watch the camp
and photographic apparatus, I proceeded with the
other due east through a fine stretch of open forest
land. We passed many neatly fenced and well-
cultivated plantations of tara, yam, plantains, and
bananas, the bunches of the latter being covered with
native mats to prevent the fruit ' being eaten by the
birds.
After a sharp march of eight miles due east through
many pretty ravines, we returned towards the camp
taking a course about two points to the northward of
92 Explorations ifi New Guinea.
that by which we had come. As we again approached
the camp of the natives (Washies by name) I called a
halt, while Garougi went forward to the camp, where
he found three men, to whom he explained that the
captain was a good man and had come there as a
friend and not as an enemy. He told them also that
I had tooreek (iron axes) and knives, tobacco and
cloth, all of which I had brought to give to them,
as I wanted to come and live amongst them, and if
I came, there would be no danger of the Tugara
men attacking them any more, because I would give
them a flag, and when the Tugara men saw that flag
they would all run away. ^ '
To this the natives very reasonably replied :
" If your captain is a good man, why did he kill our
dogs, and come here to frighten all the women and
children with thunder and lightning ? "
This Garougi came and reported to me.
I sent word back that the captain was tired, and
that he was not on shore with the men when these
dogs were shot, for, had he been, he would not have
allowed the men to shoot the dogs ; and further,
that the men who shot the dogs were not allowed
to come on shore, but were kept on the ship; and
Garougi as a Diplomatist 93
that if they would let the captain come to their camp
he would himself tell them all about it.
To this they answered that they were frightened
for the captain to come to the camp, but if he was
the good man Garougi said he was, he would go away
and not stop and frighten women and children.
I now replied that to show them that the captain
was a good man I would go away, and when they
were not frightened I would come back.
At this time I had much difficulty in restraining one
of the men from firing at a noble specimen of a cas-
sowary that was feeding in the creek.
On Garougi's return from this diplomatic mission,
we continued our journey along the opposite side of
the creek to that of our own camp, till we came upon
a piece of perhaps the finest soil it is possible to find
anywhere — rich red volcanic soil, from which sprang
many tall stately trees and much luxuriant vegeta-
tion. Here, too, were many plantations. Sending to
the camp, we photographed some of the scenery here.
After a cup of tea we started for the ship, because
it was now drawing towards sundown, and as our
course lay through a long creek, the banks of which
were lined with brushwood, we had some fear of an
94 Explorations in New Guinea,
ambuscade, but we reached the mouth of the creek in
safety at the last gleam of daylight*
As soon as we sighted the ship I observed that
all was commotion on board, and on the other side of
the river the natives were shouting their usual cry
of '' du mari, du mari.". Directly I got on board I
found all the men standing to their arms, and was
informed that three canoe loads, two small and one
large, had crossed the river with green boughs in
their hands with which they kept lashing the water,
continuing the cry of *'du mari, du mari." Fortu-
nately the wisdom of my chief officer and one of my
men, Charles Larsen, had prevented any hostile shot
being fired at the natives.
Late as it was, I gave to Garou^ and Auiti, for
presents, long knives and tomahawks, and despatched
them ashore in the boat to interview the Washies,
who, immediately the boat left the ship, rushed off into
the bush, and although Auiti was fleet of foot he
failed to come up with them, and after an hour's
absence returned to the vessel.
Having given the situation my careful consideration,
I decided, as the natives were evidently terror-stricken,
to give them time to recover, and in the morning we
The Entrafice to Prince Leopold River, 95
got under weigh and proceeded towards the mouth of
the Leopold. At the same time I blamed myself fof
allowing any party from the ship to land unless I was
there in person to command. There can be no doubt
that the indiscriminate firing and the shooting of the
. two dogs had struck terror into the hearts and raised
distrust in the minds of the natives. My object was
now to conciliate the natives and to remove the false
impression created by the injudicious conduct of my men»
Towards evening we approached the mouth of the
river, and anchored in eight fathoms of water. In the
morning, taking two seamen with me in the boat, I
sounded the channel at dead low water, and found
not less than four fathoms in any part of the channel.
The entrance to the Leopold is well sheltered, and
protected to the south by the island of Mata Kara,
and to the west by a large island named by me
Forsyth Island, and a group of three islands which
we named the Trouton Group.
The river debouched into the ocean by a channel
running to the eastward, although, as a matter of
fact, there are many other channels between the
islands. The eastern channel would be perfectly safe
for steam vessels, or for sailing vessels entering the
96 Explorations in New Guinea,
i
Leopold, but, being rather narrow and intricate, is yet
too dangerous for a sailing ship to attempt to bea4:
through. I therefore got under weigh and returned
up the Leopold, and in the evening anchored opposite
a tributary, the entrance to which was five to six
hundred yards wide. This I named the Herald,
after my schooner.
At daylight we again proceeded up the river,
passing the Kethel and Macqueen, which I had named
in my previous expedition, and the confluence of the
Leopold and Mia Kasa. Opposite the Tokuda River
we anchored and landed a party, and did a con-
siderable amount of exploration. Here the shelving
river bank rises to a height of some twenty-five feet,
and the land rolls away in undulating waves.
The soil is exceedingly good, being mostly a dark
vegetable loam. The country is undulating, and is
finely wooded with valuable trees. We felled a
number of black walnut trees, which were close
grained and had something of the nature of the
lignum vitse, and were much harder than the species
usually imported from America. We also found the
ebony tree and several other valuable timbers which
were entirely new to us.
We proceed towards the Wynne. 97
A long march into the interior revealed the fact
that the island was teeming with animal life. In
every swampy marsh were numerous pig tracks, and
on every green patch were congregated hundreds of
kangaroos, while from amongst our feet the peramles,
or little New Guinea rat, would start up and run off
amongst the shrubs or the long grass. We saw no sign
of natives, although the distance is less than fifty miles
from the coast. We had to clamber through the heavy
scrub and brushwood to the summit of some heavily
wooded ridges, on which we found the cedar tree, and
also that species of pine known in Australia as the hoop
pine and highly prized for building purposes.
As I was anxious to make the acquaintance of
the natives, as well as to ascertain their number in
the island, it was decided, on the advice of the
interpreters, that we should go nearer the mouth of
the Mia Kasa and make the estuary, marked on the
map as the Wynne, our base of operations.
We arrived here in due course, and having moored
the ship, manned the boat and rowed eight miles up
the creek accompanied by the two interpreters. I
was armed with Winchester and revolver, and carried
a haversack containing tobacco and other presents
H
98 Explorations in New Guinea.
for the Datives. Leaving the seamen in charge of
the boat I proceeded alone with the interpreters to
interview the Daapa men.
We found within a hundred yards of the banks three
well-cultivated native plantations, and proceeded along
the beaten path through a beautiful country of excellent
soil covered with luxuriant tropical vegetatioa We
scrambled through some deep gullies, where we were
pleased to find the sago palm growing in abundance,
while beautiful ferns of many varieties filled up the
intermediate spaces.
From one of these gullies we clambered up a hill of
some three hundred feet in height, and found that
the whole of the summit had been cleared and made
into a beautiful plantation fenced round in a circle.
In this plantation were cocoanut trees, plantain and
bananas, tara and yams. As the heat was intense and
my thirst equally great I suggested that we should
secure some of the young cocoanuts. Auiti cut a vine
and stripping off his clothing reeved the vine round the
tree and round his body ; then, taking the bight of this
natural rope in both hands he lifted it above his head,
gave a spring and caught the tree with his feet. This
brought the strap to down below his waist. With
An almost impenetrable Scrub, 99
another jerk he raised it far above his head and another
spring brought it lower still, and so he continued with
bounds almost equal to those of a greyhound until he
reached the top of the tall cocoanut tree.
As I stood watching him I could not help admiring
the splendid limbs and lithe activity of this young
savage. It was certainly a case of natural beauty
unadorned. He detached the cocoanuts by twisting the
stems and letting them fall to the ground.
After he had gathered a sufficient number we called
him down, and having refreshed ourselves with the juice
of the cocoanuts piled the rest in a heap ready to take
back on our return.
At the foot of a hill we came to a little valley, some-
what swampy, and what may be aptly termed a pine
wood, many of the trees in which were of excellent
growth. One which I measured with my tape had a
circumference of eighteen feet at the base. Marching
from the valley we crossed a series of hillocks, some of
which were under cultivation, and we next becaipe
entangled in an almost impenetrable scrub through
which ran a narrow native path.
H 2
ICK) Explorations in New Guinea,
CHAPTER VI.
NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE NATIVES.
Making our way through the Forest — A green Tree-Snak(
A rush of armed Natives — ^I am introduced to Kamara,
Chief of the Daapa Tribe^Garougi and Auiti explain the
Object of my Visit — The Appearance of the Women and
Children — ^I hold out the Olive Branch — A Famine at Baigo
— ^Kamara explains that his People have never seen white
Men before — I name his Territory, Strachan Island, and
promise to return — ^I clothe Kamara — His dismay at my
white Skin — Kamara sends me a Present of a small wild
Boar.
Travelling now became difficult. From the hu^e
trees hung creepers of many descriptions, most of
tliem being of a prickly nature, the snake-like vine
with thorns, similar to those of the bramble, fastening
itself round one's throat until cut through with the
bowie kniln. On the tree branches overhead were
many beautiful orchids, some of which were entirely
new to us ; however my object on this journey was not
to explore the country but to meet ' a race of wild
A green Tree- Snake, loi
savages who had never seen the face of a white man
before, and with whom I hoped to establish friendly
relations. After clearing the hill country we came te-
a cane brake and from thence marched into beautiful
open forest land.
The interpreters, light of foot, trudged bravely on,
but with the weight of arms and clothing, and with
a vertical sun overhead, I felt well-nigh exhausted,
when suddenly our guides uttered a cry to warn
the natives of our approach, and, turning round,
informed me that we were now drawing near their
camp. Auiti ran forward while Garougi remained
with me.
In a few minutes Auiti returned to say that the
natives had left the camp, but that there was plenty of
water there. We entered and Auiti brought me some
fresh water in a cocoanut shell from a creek sur-
rounded by a plantation of bamboos.
Whilst waiting for him to come up, my attention was
attracted by a rustling among the leaves of one of the
bamboos, and, looking overhead, I saw what at first sight
appeared to be a piece of green bamboo moving. This
proved to be a green tree-snake about three feet long.
It was a beautiful creature, and would have been a
i02 Explorations in New Guinea.
prize for any naturalist. I wanted to cut the bamboo
and kill it, but for some reasons the interpreters
begged me to refrain.
Time being precious, we continued onward, and
passing through a belt of scrub again reached the
open forest. As we approached a piece of. rising
ground the interpreters again uttered their cry, and
presently we saw starting from every corner of the
bush and rushing towards us men armed with bows
and arrows and spears. Auiti ran towards them,
speaking rapidly as he ran. Garougi remained with
me. His and my arms were stretched out, but with
my revolver dangling to my right wrist.
They gathered round Auiti, who presently returned
holding by the hand a lithe, wild-eyed, determined-
looking young cannibal, to whom I was introduced,
and who in return was introduced to me, Kamara, the
Chief of the Daapa tribe. The rest of them flocked
around; I opened my haversack, and gave small
pieces of tobacco to each native, and we proceeded
towards their camp. The men laid aside their bows,
arrows, and spears, a native mat was spread upon the
ground and we sat in a circle. The men were perfectly
nude, being adorned only with charms around their
The Women and Children, 103
necks, the tail of a pig, a boar's tooth, a cassowary's
quill or some other trophy of war or chase.
Garougi and Auiti having explained the object
of my visit, and informed them about the dog shooting
with the Washies, went on to say how anxious Captain
Strachan was to be friendly with all the tribes, and
that it was his intention to come and live amongst
them if their country was good. If he came they
would then have no more to fear from the Tugara
men from the west, but would have good houses, like
those they had in Baigo, plenty of cloth, tx)bacco,
tomahawks and knives, and would find in the white
man a friend; and '*by-and-by missionary he come
and they speak book same as men at Saibai."
By the expression of the men's countenances it was
evident that they were delighted at the prospect,
and they rose and brought me to eat a piece of wood
called betesi, which is the pith of the sago tree dried
in the sun. The natives are not sufficiently advanced
in civilization to understand the washing of the sago,
but they simply dry it in the sun and eat it in its crude
state.
The women, who were somewhat numerous, sat in
the rear. They were certainly not beautiful ; their
104 Explorations in New Guinea.
dress consisted of a grass waist cloth. In the lobes
of their ears were square pieces of wood : the carti-
lage between the nostrils was pierced and through it
were driven pieces of wood until the natural features
were completely distorted. Many of the children,
however, were not bad looking, and as they gathered
round and gained confidence they grew playful.
After giving away all the presents I had brought,
Kamara informed me that there was a better and a
nearer route to the camp by moving the ship a little
further down the river, a course which would obviate
the necessity of pulling up the creek. I requested
lum to send to the Washi, the Mata, and the Boogi
tribes, and ask them to meet me there in three days'
time when I would come with a party of my own
people to meet them. I added that I wished to assure
them that my visit was one of peace and not of war,
that I wanted to be friendly with them, and to come
iand dwell amongst them.
. Pointing to the vast extent of territory, I explained
that there was a great land and few people, that they
had no houses, that they were being continually devoured
by the wild men of the west, and in turn again devoured
those whom they could surprise and capture. If the
/ Jtold out the Olive-Branch. 105
white man came amongst them all this would cease ;
they would be protected, and the wild men driven
back. I told them I would pay them now for the
land, and, when I came to dwell amongst them, in
return for their labours, men would come to teach
them the same as Auiti and Garougi had been taught.
I said, " It is not seven years since Garougi and Auiti
ate men, now they will not eat men. They had no
clothes, they were naked as you, Kamara ; now they
have clothing like me. Would not this be better for
you, than being driven in terror from place to place
through the island before the Tugara men ? "
Between them, Garougi and Auiti interpreted this
to the chief and the natives, who seemed to understand
and grasp the meaning perfectly.
I then promised that until we met again I would
not allow any of my people to travel through the
island.
Returning by the same track, we gathered the
cocoanuts that we had left, and reaching the boat
returned to the ship long after dark. The inter-
preters, who had now been with us a month, had
grown very anxious to return home. Having paid
them liberally for their services, the boat was manned
Io6 Explorations in New Guinea.
and they were taken by myself to the mouth of the
river where we made a ' fire aa a signal, and a canoe
came from Baigo, distant seven miles, and took them
to their homes. They promised to send over other
interpreters the next day.
On the following afternoon, three canoes came over
and informed me that fish were scarce and it was a
dry season, so that in consequence there was a famine
on the island. Since we left they had been living
on the roots of the young mangrove, and at present
the women were sleeping to deaden the pangs of
hunger. I gave the men something to eat, and on the
turn of the tide dispatched one canoe with two
hundredweight of rice and a bag of biscuit*- for the
women and children. One canoe remained at the ship
all night, and the other made for the shore, where the
crew proceeded to the camp of the Daapa men to urge
Kamara to have the whole of the tribes gathered by
Wednesday (it was now Monday).
On Tuesday we landed on a black ironstone sand
beach. The country here rises gradually from the
river bank to a height of perhaps two hundred and
fifty feet. The timber was heavy and valuable, and
as it was my intention to carry specimens back, I
Medicinal ^'Birds' Eyes'' 107
sent the boat again to the ship for axes and a cross-
cut saw. We felled many trees, the timber of which
was of great value, notably one which, when polished
in Sydney, presented the appearance of waterlaid silL
The soil too was everywhere excellent and well
adapted for almost any kind of tropical or semi-
tropical products. The south-east trade winds, blow-
ing into the river and through the scrubs and forests
over nine months of the year, make this part of New
Guinea also comparatively healthy.
Here again we saw many interesting insects, birds
and butterflies, and in a hollow at the back of the high
ground were flocks of ducks and geese and many pig
tracks, but we did not actually see any animals. The
day was spent rambling about in groups within a couple
of miles of the shore, but none of us proceeded inland.
I gathered many strange seeds, and beans black as
ebony, some of which are now set and used as
bracelets ; and from a variety of long grass I collected
bottles full of small red and black seed, to which my
sailors gave the name of "birds' eyes," the native
name being " tigi tig." I have since learned that this
seed is of great medical value. and is now eagerly
sought after by the faculty.
io8 Explorations in New Guinea.
On Wednesday morning a native returned from the
Daapa Camp, and informed me that Kamara would
have the people all ready at the appointed time.
With a party of eight and about a dozen Baigo men,
we proceeded by a winding path around a hill, across
what in the rainy season would be a swamp, and
again entered the open forest; we passed through
the camp already spoken of, and in due course
reached the camp of the Daapa people. The natives
rushed out to meet us, thi» time unarmed, having on
only their kadigees, armlets or gauntlets, plaited
from split cane and used to protect the wrist from the
bowstring.
Kamara walked with me to the camp, and a little
man from Baigo, who called himself a missionary,
brought the chiefs of the Mata, Boogi, and Washi
tribes, to all of whom 1 gave presents. I upbraided
the latter in no measured terms at being terror-stricken
at a friend, more especially when that friend was ac-
companied by the chief of Baigo and his son.
He explained that they had never seen white men
before and, being suddenly awakened from their sleep
by the noise of guns as of thunder, were frightened.
The shooting of their dogs had still further alarmed
Assurances of Peace and Amity, 109
them. Kamara had told him that I had come to see
him alone and they were not frightened now ; if I
returned they would not run away. My sailors had
carried a large quantity of trade consisting of axes,
long knives, tomahawks, pipes, tobacco, beads, cloth
and handkerchiefs. I again explained my object
in visiting their country, and from them received every
assurance that they would dwell in peace and amity
with me and would be glad if I would come and dwell
amongst them. On the other hand I explained that
they would be protected from the murderous raids of
the Tugara men from the west. They were assured
that their plantations would not be touched, unless
fairly purchased from them at the time with their con-
sent and with the consent of the whole tribe. *' Look,"
I said " at this great island, there are no men here ;
you stop little while here, Tugara men come, you run
away, Tugara men come another place, you run
away. Suppose white men come, you come make
house and live near white man. Tugara men come,
white men make Tugara men run away." They all
laughed and seemed delighted. I then enquired the
numbers in each tribe, and summing them up I calcu-
lated the total to be one hundred and eighty souls on
no Explorations m New Guinea.
an island containing seven hundred and fifty square
miles^
My trade was then opened and laid bare and
parcelled out to each chief according to the number of
people in his tribe. The question was then asked,
**Are you willing that I come and possess this
island?" *'A11 man keep his own garden and all
the ground that is not used are you willing to give it
to me?" They all signified their willingness and I
told them the name was *' Strachan Island," and by
this name the natives know the island at present.
I then said, " I will not be back again at the camp,
as I want to see the country, but my men will be walk*
ing one's and two's and three's all over your island.
They will go to shoot burum (pigs) and also birds.
They will go to look at trees. If women work in
garden, some men speak to her, she shall not run away.
She no savee what my men speak, •they no speak bad.
They speak good. They will look at women' work a
little while and they will walk away. But if man
speak bad, women can speak Kamara, Kamara will,
come to me. That man will not speak bad more. If
some man meet my man, he will shake hai^s and they
will be friends. If some man have something for to
/ clothe Kamara. in
give, my man give him knife or tobacco or handker-
chief for something. My man must not take some-
thing from Mata, Boogl, Washi or Daapa man S&t
nothing, so we will be good friends."
Independent of the trade given to the chiefs I made
small presents to every man, woman and child of the
tribe. This being done, I took a walk through the
camp, talked to the women, played with the children,
and seeing a number of cassowaries, I purchased them
from them.
When it was late in the afternoon we prepared to
return to the ship, I having persuaded Kamara and
two of the others to accompany me. We arrived at
dusk and introduced the Chief to those on board the
ship, which ordeal he went through with a certain
amount of natural grace hardly to be expected in a
naked savage. I then gave him food, and while he
was eating I looked out some clothing.
By the assistance of the interpreters I clothed him
in a white shirt, trousers, and a blue coat with brass
anchor buttons ; but we had some difficulty about the
coat, as he persisted in putting it on the wrong way
and could not understand that the open part should be
in front. However, after some difficulty we got him
112 Explorations in New Guinea,
clad in the first garments that had ever covered his
nakedness.
I then presented him with a looking-glass. While
he was admiring himself, I quietly unbuttoned and
withdrew my upper garments. He lifted his eyes
fix)m the glass, and seeing my white skin he dropped
the glass, staii;ed to his feet, looked towards the cabin
door as if he would like to rush outj then sat down
breathing hard with his head half averted. He kept
looking at me with the timid look of a hunted wild
animal. The look was not altogether one of fear nor
was it entirely one of surprise. It was positively one
of repulsion and of loathing, as if my white skin was
too horrible to look upon, and he seemed relieved
when I re-dressed.
They remained on board the ship all night. In
the morning they landed, and in the afternoon Kamara
sent me off a present of a small wild boar, which I
ultimately presented to the Zoological Society of New
South Wales.
( 113 )
CHAPTER VII.
STBACHAN ISLAND.
Lovely Flora of the Island — Splendid Timber — Flocks of black
and white Cockatoos — Keeping Watch by Night I in the
Tropics — Following a Native Track — Plunging through a
Cane Brake — ^Bush Work in the Wilds of New Guinea —
The Prospects for European Settlers.
The men were now allowed to explore Strachan
Island in small parties, and accompanied by my
second officer^ a good Australian bushman, and two of
my seamen, I proceeded with the boat up the Wynne.
We followed the stream for a distance of some eighteen
miles, until it became so narrow that the boat had to
be propelled by sculling astern. Here we landed on
the north side, and following the track through a
cane brake for a distance of some fifty yards we
again entered some excellent country, the soil of which
was composed of dark vegetable loam.
The flora in this part was very lovely ; from and
between the huge trees were suspended vines bearing
I
114 Explorations in New Guinea,
many beautiful flowers. We also came across a great
variety of- orchids and many other plants, which
would have cheered the heart of my friend Baron
Ferdinand Von Muller. As my mission was not
that of a collector of botanical specimens, but rather
to open up this fair land for settlement, for the
benefit not only of the white man but the native
races also, I contented myself with admiring the
natural beauties by which I was surrounded.
Continuing our journey we came to a deep gorge,
the dry bed of which we followed for some consider-
able distance. Here my attention was attracted by a
pretty little bird, no larger than the humming bird,
flying amongst the shrubs on the banks. Clambering
up the side of the ravine we tried the various trees
with our tomahawks and axes, the old bushman, who
was expert in using the axe, cutting out several blocks
of considerable size, which were ultimately taken to
Sydney and pronounced by experts to be timber of
great value, many of them very valuable for cabinet-
making purposes. Throughout the whole of this day
our examination of the country had been carried out
with care, and being now some five miles from the
bank of the creek we had again lost all signs of native
Keeping Watch by Night. 115
tracks. Overhead and in the outer branches were
flocks of black and white cockatoos. We passed a
few red birds of paradise and also the twelve-wired
birds of paradise, but saw none of the other species
of these beautiful birds that are known to inhabit
New Guinea. We passed numerous pig tracks^ but,
strange to say, during the day saw no sign of the
kangaroo. Near every pool of water in the ravine
numbers of beautiful butterflies, of the genus Papilio,
were disporting themselves, and as towards nightfall
we retraced our steps to the boat, the air became
blackened with beetles of different descriptions.
Reaching the boat, we pulled down the creek for a
few miles until we found a suitable place to camp for
the night. The billy was put on and we were soon
busily engaged at our evening meal, which consisted of
tea, hard biscuits, and parrots, which we roasted over
the fire by holding them on a pointed stick.
The watches were then arranged. I kept the
watch from eight to ten, from which the time until
three was divided among the others. As it is in the
^arly hours of the morning that the savage usually
makes the attack, it was imperative that I should keep
the last watch, from three o'clock, myself.
I 2
Ii6 Explorations in New Guinea,
The excitement of the day, the hideous noises of the
forest, the sharp crackling sound of the jaws of the
alligators in the stream, the rushing of pigs and other
animals in the brushwood on the creek side, the flocks
of huge vampire bats flying and shrieking overhead, or,
attracted by the fire, sometimes flying so low as almost
to touch one, and the peculiar cries of the night birds
added to the weirdness of the scene, and caused a
feeling of superstitious awe to creep over me, so that I
felt inclined to call one of the men to keep me
company. When relieved at ten o'clock, I rolled
myself in the rug and lay down by the fire. Ere I
had slept ten minutes I started up in a fright with
something cold running over my face. 1 thought x>f
snakes, but it was only a little field mouse, and it
instantly darted away into the long grass.
The night passed ofl* quietly and at three o'clock I
was again called. During the long dreary last
watch the time passed slowly, and at half-past four the
men were summoned, the billy put on, and our morning
meal made off a pannikin of tea and biscuit. As soon
as daylight dawned we struck a course away to the
south and west, leaving two men in charge of the
boat. The country for about half a mile back from
Following a Native Track. 117
the creek bank was comparatively level but showed no
evidence of ever having been flooded.
The country presented the same features as the
district we had examined on the previous day, save that
we came across many specimens of the cedar tree, both
red and white, and also of the beech. After travelling
some three miles we reached a poorly-fenced native
plantation, but which I concluded had been abandoned,
although the soil was excellent
It being our intention to work through the scrub
into the open country, we struck into a native track, '
and, following it, at a distance of five miles from the
creek bank, came upon open forest land. The
travelling through this scrub was heavy in the extreme.
Our flesh was wounded and our clothes torn with the
thorns of the numerous creepers and that wretched cane
known as the " lawyer." On emerging into the open
forest we continued to the westward for a distance of
some three miles, when we again entered the scrub so
as to make the creek bank at a distance of some five
miles from where we had left our boat.
If our journey to the forest was hard, our return
journey to the creek was worse, for we had to break
our way through every foot of the scrub for fully two
Ii8 Explorations in New Guinea.
miles and consequently did not average one mile an
hour.
Here I committed the grossest error I have ever
made in my experiences of New Guinea exploration.
Issuing from the scrub, we came upon a heavy cane
brake, the cane in which was like tinder, for it was in
the month of November in the dry season. Instead of
following the edge of the brake and working round we
plunged in, and after an hour's hard work broke our
way through.
If the natives who, although not seen, were no doubt
watching us, had been hostile, they need only have set a
spark of fire to the cane and we should have been burnt
like rats in a hole. I failed also to take the precaution
of making the men put out their pipes, a spark from one
of wluch might have had the same efiect, and, strange
as it may appear, I never realised the danger that we
were in until thinking quietly of the journey the
following day on board my own ship. We, however,
got through safely and without accident, and arrived
on top of a hill which had been cleared and which was
surrounded on two sides by cane brakes.
Here a dispute arose between the bushman and
myself as to the position of the boat This man, who
I ^ Bush Work in the Wilds, 119
I
was a good axeman and a good average man, had
always declared that his instinct and bush lore would
' lead him better than my compass. As he spoke so
' confidently I determined to give him a trial and he
started off to lead the way. He led us down the hill
\ through some scrub and in half an hour brought us
back to the very spot from whence we had started,
having completed a circle. We then struck due north,
and having passed through a pine-wood forest, made
the creek bank at a distance estimated by me to be
five or six miles westward of the camp.
Once more a dispute arose between the bushman and
myself, he asserting that the boat was lying to the
westward, while I declared that it was six miles to the
eastward. Having had sufficient of his guidance for
one day, I gave him the option of going west himself,
and promised when we reached the boat to send it
after him if he stuck to the creek's side.
Continuing eastward we came to a narrow inlet,
on the banks of which we felled a tree and scrambled
across. Continuing east we were stopped by the
cooing of our bushman. The second officer returned
to see what was the matter, and found old Ben on the
other side of the creek wanting to know how he was to
120 Explorations in New Guinea,
get over. He was directed to the tree, but in
attempting to scramble across he tumbled in and came
up with our party, out of breath and dripping wet,
to tell us of his marvellous escape.
We now began firing our signals as we scrambled
through the brushwood and after an hour we had the
satisfaction to hear them answered from the boat,
the sailors in which, when they heard the first shot,
with great good sense began pulling up the creek to
meet us. We repeated the signal, which was again
replied to, and I called a halt and waited for the boat
to approach.
We arrived at the camp, and after a hot cup of tea
started on our return journey to the ship, which we
reached at eight o'clock in the evening, well tired with
two days' hard bush work in the wilds of New Guinea.
The trip had been altogether a satisfactory one. It
proved conclusively to me that there was a splendid
country containing much excellent timber and good soil
everywhere, cut up with good waterways oflfering easy
facilities for transport. The small portion of this fine
island required for the purposes of the natives does not
amount to one thousandth part of the whole, and
convinced I am that the advent and settlement of
^^^'^^^i^F^i^mm^^^mmmm^mf^mmmmgmmm^i^mww^gm^
r
Tke Prospects for European Settlers, 12 1
the white man under wise guidance and control would
be most advantageous to the few natives inhabiting the
island.
The following day being Sunday, we rested, and on
Monday dispatched another party to go over the same
ground, so that we might have an independent opinion
as to the resources of the ishmd. During the absence
of the party those who remained were employed on
shore cutting specimens of the various timbers, which
were ultimately carried to Sydney and their relative
values favourably reported on by experts.
On Tuesday evening the party in charge of my
second officer returned, and an old Indian planter, one
of the party, who had volunteered to accompany me,
reported the country to be capable of growing any
tropical or semi-tropical product.
122 Explorations in New Guinea.
CHAPTER VIII.
REOONNOITRINa ON THB MAINLAND.
I determine to explore the Mainland to the Eastward, and leave
the Ship in a native Canoe — Native Gardens, and the
Kemains of an old Camp — Arrival amongst the People of
Bern — Nature of the Soil — Comparative Powers of En-
durance of Natives and Europeans — Statement of the Rivers
discovered, and partially explored, during the Progress of the
Expedition — My Theory, as yet unverified, is that all of
these Streams are Tributaries of the Fly River.
I NOW determined to explore the mainland to the
eastward, and at daylight next morning, accompanied
by one white man, I left the ship in a native canoe.
In crossing the river I made an important discovery of
a rock, with only two feet of water covering it at
low tide, and situated directly in the mid-channel.
Paddling to the eastern shore we soon got into shallow
water and the paddles were laid aside and the canoe
propelled by poles. Two men stood in the prow
Native Mode of Spearing Fish. 123
armed with fish spears, in the use of which, however,
they did not seem to be very dexterous, for on passing
through shoals of mullet, instead of throwing the spear
in the manner which I had seen practised by fishermen
in many other parts of the world these Papuans made
a lunge, falling into the water with the spear, which
never left their hand. Although they captured many
fish their mode of procedure seemed to me most clumsy.
Arriving at a shelving beach of ironstone sand we
landed on an old camp ground, where it was explained
to me that we were at the camp formed by the Tugara
men when waiting to capture, myself and party in
the previous year. The natives lit a fire, and we made
our morning meal on tea, biscuits, and newly caught
fishes. Our repast being over we made a start inland
to meet the people of Bern, six Baigo men accompany-
ing us as guides, one of whom was also to act as
interpreter. Several of them could speak some
English.
Having surmounted the sloping river bank we
descended into a lovely valley dotted over with beautiful
tree ferns, and although it was the month of November,
with an almost vertical sun, vegetation was every-
where luxuriant. The grass was somewhat coarse but
1
124 Explorations in New Guinea,
I was assured by my companion, the old bushman, that
it was admirably suited either for sheep or cattle. My
own opinion is that the country is too far within the
tropics for sheep to thrive. On the eastern side of
the valley ran a heavy scrub, through which we
passed without any inconvenience, by a native track,
and then entered the open forest country, passing
long stretches of scrub on both hands, to north
and south, in some of which were gullies of good
fresh water. The country here as elsewhere was un-
dulatin<]j and seemed to run in lonof land waves.
Some six miles from the river we came upon native
gardens and the remains of an old camp. Here we
called a halt, and sent some of the natives to fill our
bamboos with fresh water. After a drink and a
smoke we continued our journey, and again entered
the scrub. In the damp ground we found growing
in great profusion the sago palm with its beautiful
broad fern-like leaves; these together with the dense
foliage of the heavy timber trees, the many creepers
and vines and delicate ferns, presented a very pretty
picture of tropical luxuriance. The sun being now
near the meridian, as we emerged from the scrub belt
into the open the heat became intense, and our native
Arrival amongst the People of Bern. 125
guides began to show signs of fatigue and requested
me to return. We had continued since leaving the
river at a swinging pace, but, being determined to
interview the natives, I continued onward.
The natives, who were ahead, made an attempt to
deceive us by leading us back again to the river in a
circle, unconscious of the fact that I was noting the
direction by compass and that they were bringing
the sun to bear on our back instead of on our right.
I therefore let them continue for a short distance until
we came to a water hole in a gully, where we sat
down in the shade and rested for a few moments,
when, pointing to the sun, I commanded them to
guide us on the right course, and after another hour's
hard tramping we arrived among the people of Bern, a
small tribe not numbering in all thirty souls.
These people were once a powerful tribe, but had
been mostly killed and eaten off the face of the earth
by the Tugara men. Having much intercourse with
the people of Baigo, who are under missionary
influence, although they had not seen white men
before, they expressed litde or no surprise at seeing
me, but were greatly astonished at the manner in
which I had carried my party safely through their
126 Explorations in New Guinea,
— 7- — ' — -^~
country without having been seen or overtaken and
captured by the Tugara men in the previous year.
When I told the tale of how, though starved with
hunger and parched with thirst, I refused to allow the
men to cut down one of their cocoanut trees in order
that when we met we might be friends, they appeared
much gratified. I made careful enquiry as to the
number of the inhabitants and as to the locality of the
nearest tribe, and was assured that with the exception
of a small tribe, the Bai-Bai, people on the other side
of the Gregory, whose numbers were not in excess of
their own, there were no other tribes nearer than
Daubo, a distance of seventy-five miles.
Like Strachan Island, the country everywhere is
suitable for tropical agriculture, and, as this narrative
shows, the natives are not sufficiently numerous to
justify any Government in blocking British or Aus-
tralian enterprise. The natives, although the distance
was not twenty miles, difiered considerably in colour
and physique from those on Strachan Island, the latter
being coal black, while the people of Bern were what
may perhaps be termed a dirty brown.
The day was wearing on apace, so we started on our
return journey, and by rapid marching succeeded in
Comparative Power of Endurance, 127
■■
reaching the river bank by dusk. The boatmen
during our absence had caught more fish and
many crabs. The billy was boiling and we sat down
in the middle of these wild men to supper, and then
returned to the ship.
During this journey I had an opportunity of noting
the difference between the powers of endurance of the
European and the native of the country. Ere our
journey to Bern was half completed the natives began
to show signs of exhaustion and fatigue, while my
companion and myself, although heavily laden, were
comparatively fresh, and on the latter part of the
journey the natives were only kept going by alternate
promises and threats, so that on our arrival at the
river, with one exception, they all lay down completely
exhausted.
In the morning I sent my second officer to sound
the rock I had discovered on the previous day and to
define its position. We then made ready to leave the
Mia Kasa, but before proceeding further with the
narrative of my voyage it may be well to enumerate
the numerous rivers discovered, and to some extent
explored, during the two expeditions.
Five miles from the entrance is the Gregory, so
128 Explorations in New Guinea,
named after Mr. Edmund Gregory, of Brisbane. At
twenty miles, again, debouching into the Mia Kasa
from the eastward, is the Neill, and at twenty-five
miles, debouching from the northward, the Tokuda,
and at thirty miles another stream, the Broom-
field, named after Captain John Broomfield, the Vice-
President of the Marine Board of New South Wales,
From Strachan Island, and coming from the south-
ward, is the Bradley; ten miles further on is the
Curnow, named after the able editor of the Sydney
Morning Herald; again coming from the northward
and at a distance of fifty-six miles we made the junction
of the Prince Leopold and the Mia Kasa Rivers. The
Mi^ Kasa itself was discovered by Dr. Samuel Mac-
farlane as far back as 1877, and was named by him the
Baxter. At a distance of some eighty miles the Prince
Leopold again divides into two branches, the eastern of
which is the Wallace. The Leopold itself trends to the
westward, from which debouch into the Leopold five
tributary streams which have been named the Gard,
the Cook, the Macqueen, the Kethell, and Herald
Rivers respectively.
All of these eastern tributaries, in my opinion,
flow fi'bm the Fly River, or from the great swamps on
A Theory. 129
its southern side, or possibly by an underground current
from the Fly. This hypothesis, however, I have never
been able to actually prove, owing in some measure to
the insufficiency of time at my disposal, and partly to
that bugbear of so many explorers, the want of
sufficient capital.
130 Explorations in New Guinea.
CHAPTER IX.
THE "herald" steers EASTWARD.
At the Mouth ^f the Mia Kasa — Pinoo and Dr. Macfarlane —
The Atrocities committed at Baigo by the Tugara Men — ^No
Protection to the Natives wo have Christianized, though
there are plenty of idle Officers promenading the Streets of
Sydney, and British Gunboats dodging aimlessly about
between Port Moresby and Cook Town — An Appeal to
England and Australia on behalf of the native Races of New
Guinea — Sir Robert Macgregor*s Advent to Power a hopeful
Sign — ^Talbot Island and its People — A native Pastor at
Saibai — The great and beneficent Work achieved by the
London Missionary Society.
Our work in this part of New Guinea being thus
completed, we determined to proceed to the eastward,
and with the afternoon's tide we got under weigh, and
with three Baiffo canoes in tow worked down to the
mouth of the river, where we anchored for the night.
At dawn, the tide answering, we weighed anchor and
made sail and with a strong ebb tide in our favour
made the western end of Talbot Island.
From Talbot Island the passage up to Baigo lies
Pinoo and Dr. Macfarlane. 131
through a channel in many places ten to seventeen
fathoms in depth. At midday we anchored oflF the
village in four fathoms of water and remained for two
days. On landing, we were informed that Pinoo, the
mission teacher, had proceeded with his wife to the
Murray Islands, to pay his respects and bid a farewell
to Dr, Macfarlane, who was leaving the mission, after
years of noble sacrifice and devotion in the cause of
God and humanity, to return to England to spend the
remainder of his days in a well earned and richly
merited repose.
Having heard so much of the depredations of the
Tugara men from the west, and having in the previous
year suffered severely from them, I made careful
enquiry as to how they came to attack the people
of Baigo and their treatment of their prisoners.
From the information gathered it would appear that
after lying in wait for some time on the mainland and-
among the mangroves on the opposite shore, and making
occasional raids among the Bai-Bai and Beru tribes on
Strachan Island, they planned a great attack on the
village of Baigo which was at that time inhabited
by a population consisting of about three hundred and
fifty souls.
K 2
132 Explorations in New Guinea,
At four o'clock in the morning, when all were asleep
these bloodthirsty wretches — ^not less than a thousand
strong — surrounded the village and began to massacre
men, women and children. Between thirty and forty
escaped into the swamp and those who were not killed
were captured and thrown bound into the canoes.
The conquerors then made fires and commenced to
make a feast off the slain.
For some days they remained feasting, singing, and
dancing with devilish glee until they had eaten those
killed in the affray. Finding that the legs of their
victims swelled from the cords which bound them
and that they were likely to perish from sheer agony,
they cut the cords and with their clubs broke their
limbs and from the living victims cut pieces of flesh
which they roasted and ate before the faces of the poor
wretches, who lay writhing in agony until mortification
set in and death put an end to their sufferings.
This horrible account is true, and though 1 shudder
as I record the facts, my blood boils with indignation
when I think that we, the people of a great arid a
free country send out the missionary with the Bible in
one hand to preach that "God is love" ; to tell men
who had been prepared to defend themselves, that there
No Protection to the Natives. t33
' - - -
is peace and safety in the Gospel of Christ ; to teach
them to break their bows and their spears, and to live
in harmony with their fellow-men. Then, having
brought cannibal savages to live in a state of child-
like sympathy and trusty we take no means to protect
them from such incarnate fiends as those I have
described. We have war ships in Sydney harbour by
the dozen ; we have officers dressed in gold lace
and brass buttons promenading Sydney streets ; we
have gunboats dodging about between Port Moresby
and Cook Town, and Australia has spent £50,000, for
which she has got in return a Government Bungalow
and a gaol, but no war ship has stirred, nor one penny
of that £50,000 been expended, to protect our
Christianized fellow-men in the West !
Men of England, I appeal to you; mothers of
England, to you I look, that this great injustice shall
continue no longer. Fellow-citizens of Australia, I
call upon you to be up and doing, to see that Australia's
might and Australia's right is respected even in
New Guinea, I feel confident that if the Noble
Lord who rules the Colonial Office so wisely and so
well directs his attention to the matter, prompt,
decisive, and humane action will speedily be taken.
134 Explorations in New Guinea,
If I write strongly, the reason is that, on this
subject for years past my heart has bled for these
I)eople, who are being obliterated from the face of the
earth, and melting, as it w^ere, like summer snow. I
feel that, small as the matter may seem when compared
with those questions now distracting the attention of
statesmen in Europe, our failure to protect these
subjects of Her Majesty's latest dominion is a scandal
to our policy and a reproach to us as a Christian
nation. I sincerely trust that now that Sir Robert
Macgregor has become Administrator something may
be done to remedy this painful state of affairs. Surely
his great experience in all matters pertaining to the
natives of the South Sea Islands will cause him to
extend his countenance and protection to the people
of the west, instead of devoting, as his predeceasor
did, his whole energies merely to ameliorating (?)
the condition of the ti'ibes about Port Moresby.
Talbot Island, which has been roughly surveyed and
is marked on the Admiralty charts as of considerable
extent, could be utilized for many practical purposes,
as it is eminently adapted in places for growing rice
and maize and contains a considerable quantity of
valuable timber.
Talbot Island. 135
During our two days' stay here the wind blew
strongly from the south-east and was dead against us,
but there was nothing to be gained by remaining, for
the natives being now rich beyond their most sanguine
expectations in axes, tomahawks, knives, cloth, tobacco,
&c., were eager not only to try the effect of their, tools
in house-building but to return to the mainland in
order to do a little trading on their own account. We
therefore landed and bade them good-bye for a year,
promising to return, and instructing Garougi* and
Auiti to keep up continual intercourse with the four
chiefs of the island and to protect my interests. I
returned to the ship, accompanied by one canoe and
the two interpreters, who were to act as pilots, and to
point out the way through a broader and a better
channel than that by which I had come down the
coast.
We got under weigh, and, having made our course
through the channel, anchored at dusk for the night.
Our friends returned to their village, a watch was
set, and we rode snugly at anchor, until the tide
answered in the morning. Then having to beat a
* Garougi has since been killed Jand eaten by the Tugara
men.
136 Explorations in New Gtiinea.
passage the whole way, with the lead constantly
going, we were enabled to make a fairly accurate
survey of this part of the coast The depth of water
in the channel varied from seventeen fathoms to three
fathoms until reaching Taun, where, owing to the
numerous reefs, the water shallowed considerably.
Without anchoring at Taun, we proceeded to
Saibai, where we were informed that Jakobo and
Janee had also gone to the Murray Islands, to take a
farewell of Mr. Macfarlane, and that AnnU, who .
eleven years before had been a wild, bloodthirsty
cannibal warrior, and is head chief of Saibai, had
charge of the Mission.
As 1 was anxious to see how this old cannibal
would conduct the religious ordinances in the
absence of the missionary, I remained on shore until
after evening prayers. As the time for service
approached, the bell was rung, and Annu, taking me
by the arm said, "Now we go pray, captain." I
accompanied him to a large native house on the floor
of which were several bright wood fires, round which
the natives were seated. Alees, the second or lower
chief, then arose and proceeding to a corner of the
building brought forth a number of paper-covered
\
Great Work of the London Missionary Society, 137
books, which I found to be copies of a native transla-
tion of the Gospel of St. John. These he handed
round to a considerable number of the natives.
Annu opened the service by kneeling and praying
with apparent earnestness in the native tongue for a
few moments. The people again sat down, and
opening the book, Annu read what appeared to be the
first verse of the first chapter of St. John's Gospel and
was followed in succession by the others until the
chapter was finished. A pause ensued for a few
moments and then, turning to the beginning, Annu
started to expatiate on the chapter they had just read.
When he had finished, he was followed by others, until
nearly all who had been engaged in reading had
made some remarks. Then after singing a hymn,
Annu closed the service of the evening, with the bene-
diction in the nati\e tongue.
Those who doubt the value of missions should study
the great and beneficent work of the London Mis-
sionary Society in New Guinea during the short space
of twelve years. There is no need to go further back
than Lieutenant Connor's report of a Survey of this
part of the coast in 1872 made by him on behalf of the
Colonial Government There they will find described
138 Explorations in New Guinea,
that the very men, with whom I sat in perfect safety,
listening to them uttering songs of prayer and praise
to that great invisible Euler who controls the destinies
of men and of nations, were then a tribe of wild blood-
thirsty savages, who at that time hunted and murdered
their fellow-men for the sake of collecting their heads
and eating their flesh. With them, indeed, in a very
wonderful sense, ^^ old things have passed away and all
things have become new."
( 139 )
CHAPTER X.
FRIENDLY INTERCOURSE WITH THE DAUBO AND
MOWATTA TRIBES — THE FUTURE OF NEW GUINEA.
Engaging Interpreters at Daubo — A Journey into the Interior
— I am introduced to Emari, Chief of the Daubo People —
His Friendly Attitude — ^A Question of "Roast Pig" —
Return to Saibai — Proceed Eastward to Mowatta — The
Mission Station at the Mouth of the Katow River — I try to
gain the confidence of the People of Goua — The Purchase of
the Idol *' Seegur " — Arrival at Taun — ^The Vills^es in the
Neighbourhood of the Fly River — Suspicions of the Natives
and what gave rise to them — We part good Friends — The
Village of Turi-Turi — ^We return to Sydney — News of Sir
Peter Scratchley's Death — Unfortunate Selection of his
Successor — The Future Prospects of New Guinea.
In the morning I arranged with Annu for ten men
to accompany myself and party into the interior from
a point some miles to the eastward, so that I might
meet and hold converse with the Daubo tribe. Matters
being arranged, we agreed to start on the following
morning in a native canoe. For the services of these
men we agreed to pay ten trade sticks of tobacco
143 Explorations in New Guinea.
per head for the trip, and to give the chief an axe.
At the appointed time, instead of one canoe and ten
men, four canoes containing in all thirty-six men came
alongside, and Annu explained "Captain pay good,
all men want to go."
To this I consented, and leaving the ship, we
paddled along the New Guinea shore until we came to
a creek, which we entered. Landing among the man-
groves, after a tramp .of two miles we emerged into an
open forest park-like country across which we travelled
in a north-west direction for a distance of about eio:ht
miles, when we entered a grand piece of scrub-land,
the centre of which had been cleared. It contained a
splendid cocoanut grove with some fine plantations.
A good house had been built there by the London
Missionary Society for one of their teachers — my
friend Pinno, already spoken of as being at Baigo —
but, being an islander, he has grown afraid to live in
the heart of the forest. It was therefore deemed
advisable to remove him, and he was sent to Baigo,
the consequence being that no teacher has been
stationed there since.
Clearing the scrub, we entered a morass, which we
crossed by a narrow native track and then had to
/ am introduced to Emari, 141
clamber over some rugged country and afterwards
entered a dense forest which we found all ablaze. So
fierce was the fire and so dense was the smoke, that
at times we were compelled to close our nostrils and
mouths and rush past the flames and through clouds
of smoke, with crackling burning branches and limbs
of trees falling around us in all directions. We
were all well nigh exhausted ere we reached the open
country.
After a short rest we started forward again and a
second march of two miles brought us to another belt
of scrub partially cleared, containing cocoanut trees
and good plantations. Here we took a long rest and
regaled oui-selves with green cocoanuts, tea, biscuits
and a quiet pipe.
On again continuing to the north-west, the Saibai
men began to fire their Sniders, until at last we heard
a yell or a howl ; and then some of them ran forward
and returned leading one man by the hand, followed
by a number of others. They introduced me to
Emari, the Chief of the Daubo people, and a noted
warrior, whose face was scarred all over with wounds..
The others were introduced as they came up and we
proceeded towards their camp or village, on the
142 Explorations in New Guinea,
outskirts of which were neatly fenced, well-cultivated
plantations.
It may be well to inform the reader here that
this tribe, which now consists of only thirty-five
souls, represents the population of five villages on the
sea coast, the whole of the rest of the people
having been killed or captured and eaten by the
Tugara men from the west. The Saibai men
explained to them that our mission was to see the
country, and informed them that it was possible that
white men might come to dwell among them. ■
On learning this Emari expressed his great gratifi-
cation, he being, as I shall subsequently show, a man
— albeit a savage — considerably in advance of his
fellows, and having for years past been anxiously
endeavouring to gain the friendship and the acquaint-
ance of the white man. When white men came to
Saibai he sent a messenger to convey presents and to
ask the Saibai men to send him a white man's name
for his boy, who at the time of my visit was a fine
open-faced young fellow of about eighteen or twenty
years of age, with the most honest countenance I have
ever seen on a savage.
Unfortunately for Emari, and for the credit of the
Emari, 143
white men, the only man the men at Saibai could ask
was a Beche-de-mer man, who was at anchor off the
island, and he sent back word to call him by the vilest
epithet we have in the English language* and by this
name, in their ignorance, the boy was called. When
introduced to me, through the interpretation of the
Saibai men, I explained the meaning of the word and,
changing the name to my own (pronounced by the
natives Tron), gave great satisfaction to both his father
and his mother and also delighted the lad himself.
The natives all came in from the plantations and
the women and children gathered round. My people
were mostly busily engaged in exchanging tobacco for
bows, arrows, and spears, while one of the Saibai men
v/as empowered to trade on my own account. I thus
had leisure to converse with Emari and endeavoured to
persuade him to allow his son to come south with me
to Sydney so that I might send him to school.
The young man was anxious to accompany me, but
his father and mother deemed the distance too great,
but Emari promised me that he would send him to
Saibai to be instructed by my friend Jakobo.
These people, savage as they were, impressed me
favourably, and I wrote to the Rev. Harry Scott, the
144 Explorations in New Guinea,
acting Superintendent of the London Missionary
Society at the Murray Islands, on their behalf. Their
dwellings were a considerable improvement on those of
the natives of Strachan Island, being triangular-shaped
and closed at the south-eastern end with a movable
hyrdle-like matted frame for a door.
. As it was now late in the afternoon, we decided to
return as far as the empty Mission House and there
camp for the night, T having succeeded in persuading
Emari and his son to accompany me back to the ship.
Amongst other things we purchased a pig, and they
brought another pig so as to make a feast in the
evening with the Saibai men, when we camped, in
return for their having brought the white men to see
them.
Having made small presents to the women and
children we took our leave, and started on our return
journey and travelled rapidly, only pausing at intervals
to. bring down some of the numerous ducks and geese
which we. found resting near or clustered about every
w^ater-hole.
On arriving at the Mission House, as there was still
half an hour of daylight, I decided to make an attempt
to return again to the [^ship the same night, and as
A Question of " Roast Pig!^ 145
Emari, his son and several of his people were with 'us,
and the Saibai men were well acquainted with the
country, I thought there could be no danger in travelling
in the dark. I therefore ordered them to continue to
the canoes, which they did much against their will, the
Saibai men being naturally anxious to remain until
the pig was killed and roasted. However, by dint oi*
much persuasion, I compelled them to continue the
journey and we arrived at the creek between eight
and nine o'clock.
Emari and his son were, however, afraid to venture
to sea in the dark. Many of the Saibai men also were
anxious to remain, so that they might make a fire and
roast the pig, and it was with some difficulty that I
could induce one canoe to start on the return journey
with my party. In this, however, I at length
succeeded, but on clearing the creek I found it
blowing half a gale from the south-east, with a short
lumpy sea. The canoe, a large one, rode bravely
through it. The wind being fair, sail was set, and
at about ten o'clock we reached the "Herald" tired
and hungry with our hard but successful day's work.
The country through which we had passed that day
had all the characteristics of that to the westward pre-
L
146 Explorations in New Guinea,
viously described. But the natives themselves seemed
to be of a more mild, placable, and trustful disposition.
This I think may, in a great measure, be accounted for
partly by their connection and intercourse with the now
Christianized men from Saibai, and partly by the great
and crushing defeats which they had suffered at the
hands of the Tugara men. Be this as it may, I could
not help feeling greatly and kindly interested in these
people and I trust the day is not far distant when,
under the protection of our glorious flag, they may be
enabled to dwell in safety, and advance in the arts of
peace and civilization.
In the morning Emari and his son came on board,
as did also the whole of the boatmen from Saibai. To
these latter I paid three hundred and sixty sticks of
tobacco for their services, and to my own namesake I
presented a suit of clothing, an axe, a knife, a toma-
hawk and some tobacco, besides bestowing similar
presents on his father. The rolling of the ship made
them somewhat uncomfortable and I accordingly landed
them at Saibai. They remained there, imtil I moved
my ship to Taun, for the purpose of filling up our
casks with fresh water, and then they returned to their
homes.
Proceed Eastward to Mowatta. 147
While the men were thus employed, I returned with
the steam launch to Saibai, and arranged with the
chief for the loan of a mission boat ; and with a boat's
crew proceeded to the Tillage of Mowatta, on the
Katow River, forty miles to the eastward of Saibai.
Returning to the ship our preparations were completed,
and on the following morning we returned to Saibai.
A party was then selected for the mission boat, which
was taken in tow by the steam launch ; the ship's boat
which had accompanied us, in charge of the second
officer, returned to Taun while we proceeded to the
eastward to Mowatta.
The channel between the mainland of New Guinea
and Saibai is very intricate, and much obstructed by
coral reefs. The tide being in our favour we made
considerable progress and arrived at the mouth of
the Katow in nine hours. Here we were met by
the chief Tamea and the mission teacher Annu,
the latter being one of the men who in the previous
year had rescued my party from New Guinea.
Boarding the launch he piloted us into the Katow and
we anchored opposite the Mission House.
We also found located an American negro, an
African negro, and an old Greek, known through the
L 2
148 Explorations in New Guinea,
Torres Straits by the sobriquet of " Old Louis," together
with two castaways, one Martin, an Irishman, and the
other a Hindoo named Peeroo Nersoo. The last
named had served Her Majesty in the Soudan, and
was decorated with two medals. On landing he
accosted me and begged for a passage to Sydney. He
presented his certificates of discharge from Her
Majesty's Service and as these were satisfactory I gave
him the passage asked for.
It being late in the afternoon we camped at the Mis-
sion House for the night, and in the morning, accom-
panied by the teacher, the chief, and a number of the
natives, we proceeded by the steam launch up the Katow
for a distance of fifteen miles to where the river divides,
one branch running to the north-east and the other to
the north-west. The water in this river is fresh, and
within a few miles of the mouth the scenery on both
sides presents an appearance of exquisite tropical
loveliness. Here we found cedar trees growing in
abundance ; also many other valuable timbers, and
in the clearings were large well-cultivated plantations.
When we landed, we were met by a large number
of boys some of whom were hooped round the waist with
great bands of split bamboos. I enquired from the
y .SA^ ^ ^ W^ ' '- ■ ■ "'^^ ■ -- ^^^ ■■■■ ^.^v. ^ .^p* fc ^#w
TAe Village of Goua. 149
teacher the significance of this, and his answer led
me to believe that it was a sign of purity. In this,
however, I subsequently learned I was mistaken.
Accompanied by the natives, who were more numer-
ous in this part, and by the Mowatta men, we followed
a native track to the village of Goua through a country
described by an Indian planter who accompanied the
expedition as the best tropical lands he had ever seen.
We tramped for a distance of seven or eight miles and
then drew near to a very large village, the houses in
which were all well built of gaba gaba, that is to
say of the wood of the sago palm, and thatched with
atap — the leaves of the same palm. The chief to
whom we were presented was a rather kindly looking
old man; as for the women, they peered round the
corners of the houses and from behind the trees, but
ran away screeching on our approach.
I gave presents and started, accompanied by some
of the natives, for a tour of inspection through the
village, which was not badly planned, being built so
as nearly to approach a square, with some vacant
ground in the centre. At the eastern end of the
village was a large open house, and there, standing
against the wall at the western end, was a huge
150 Explorations in New Guinea,
ochre-covered idol. Before M-as raised a rude altar
upon which lay fruit, flowers, seeds, pieces of cocoa-
nut and other offerings, and in attendance were
two priests.
I determined, if possible, to secure this object of
native devotion. I therefore began assiduously to
cultivate the acquaintance and make the friendship of
the priests, to whom 1 presented knives, and tobacco
and other trivial articles. Having in some measure
gained their confidence, through the interpretation
of the teacher, I made a proposal to purchase the god,
which overture seemed to astonish them, and they
distinctly replied that under no circumstances would
they part with him. I then enumerated the large
number of articles which I was prepared to give in
return for the idol, and the teacher told them of all the
axes, tomahawks, cloth and tobacco that would be forth-
coming provided they were willing to part with the
hideous object, which I took care to explain could do
them no good. Putting the end of my stick in a fire
which was burning on the floor, I burnt the end off
and again explained that that same fire could as easily
burn off their god's head. Then striking it with a stick
I told them that it had no feeling, neither had it
The Idol Seegiir, 151
power, and although they might think that I wanted
their god for some good that it could do, such was not
the case. I only wanted to take it so that the people
in my country could see it and laugh to think that
they were so foolish as to worship a piece of wood.
Their god — by name Seegur — could not make the
winds blow, neither could it make the rain fall. It
could not bring the leaves nor the fruit upon the trees.
It could not help them in sickness and, I added,
pointing at the same time to the sun overhead, it could
not make the sun shine, neither could it make the day
nor night. I would pay them well for their idol, and
if they gave it to me I would do more when I
returned to my own country. I would send to them
a teacher like Annu who would tell them of a better
God, — One Who could see everywhere, who made
the very air that they breathed, and if they listened
to that teacher they would be ashamed to think that
they had been so foolish as to worship such a hideous
monster as Seegur.
I know not what impression my speech made, but
I do know that the large number of things I had
offered (to the value of fully £5 sterling) greatly
excited the cupidity of these two priests, and had I
152 Explorations in New Guinea,
had the goods with me on the spot there is no doubt
that I should have taken the god back with me to
Tauan. As it was, I arranged that Annu and Tamea
should come and interview them again, and, if possible,
negotiate the purchase.
One of these priests accompanied me again into the
village, where I found some of my people had made
considerable progress in gaining the friendship of the
natives. Many women were gathered round, clapping
their hands and laughing, and exhibiting signs of
wonder and surprise. The cause I found to be the
peculiarity of our feet, and to show them that we had
feet — although white — like themselves, some of the
men had taken off their boots and stockings. So
interested had some of the old women become that
they were going from one to the other in the party
requesting them to take off their boots and stockings
so that they might see their feet inside.
We purchased some curiosities and returned to the
launch, and proceeding down the river I determined,
as the country in this part was exceedingly fertile, and
much cedar and other valuable timber seemed easily
procurable, to leave the launch and party at Mowatta,
and, if possible, to engage one of the Beche-de-mer
Arrival at Taun, 153
■ - —
men to take me in his lugger to Taun, and then to
return with the ship and make the Katow the base of
our operations for a few weeks. Annu having pro-
vided quarters for my people, 1 bargained with
Thomas, the African negro already spoken of, to get his
craft under weigh, and carry me to Taun. This we
reached without mishap in twenty-four hours, and
found that the men during our absence had completed
their task of filling up our fresh water.
It was now the turtle season and all was activity
and life on the two islands of Saibai and Taun.
The men were all out in their canoes with long spears
spearing turtle, while the women were gathered on a
high rocky point with green boughs, signalling to the
canoes when they saw turtles to seaward. On
one of the canoes succeeding in making a capture the
excitement of the natives on shore was not only
intense but ludicrous. In the evening several of the
canoes came alongside and from them we purchased
turtle at the rate of one tomahawk per head.
The passage between Saibai and the mainland of
New Guinea being too intricate even to attempt
beating through with the schooner, it was decided to
go outside the island through that portion of
154 Explorations in New Gtiinea,
Torres Straits marked on the charts as unexamined.
The African who had brought me down professed to
know the road, but I soon discovered that he was
grossly ignorant, not only of the route, but of almost
everything pertaining to the profession of a seaman,
and I therefore had to depend on my own resources*
The wind being light, it took just three days to cover a
distance of little more than forty miles.
When we arrived at Taun we found the party left
behind had been living almost solely on native fare —
their own provisions having given out — and all hurried
eagerly to the ship to get something to eat. On landing
we decided to take the vessel into the river, and moor
her there. The channel is a mere gutter, but after
some difficulty we succeeded in making our way
through, and moored the ship opposite the Mission
Station.
By the teacher and chief I was informed that they
had succeeded in purchasing " Seegur " and that it
was now with two smaller idols at the Mission House.
From my own people I gathered that the priests in
selling this god had nearly created a serious dis-
turbance, and that the peoples of three principal tribes
(the Goua, Massigari, and Koonini) had gathered
Bamboo badge^ a Sign of Shame, 155
4 ,
around to prevent them carrying it away, besides men
from some of the farther inland tribes. I therefore
determined to interview the whole of these people on
the following day, and sent word up the river for
them all to meet me at the landing.
I sat up the greater part of the night cutting trade
sticks of tobacco into halves, and on the following
moniing, accompanied by interpreters, a party of my
own people, and a immber of Mowatta and Saibai
men, I proceeded up the river.
Having arranged the tribes in double files, I again
explained that Seegur was not purchased by me for
my own benefit, but that on proceeding to my home
I should be able to show my people how foolish they
were in giving adoration to a piece of wood which
could do no more for them than one of the branches
of dead wood that were lying about their feet; that
when my people saw Seegur they would be anxious
to send them some one to teach them a better faith.
By this time I had learnt that the badge of bamboo
worn by many of the youths was a mark of infamy
and shame. I therefore took the opportunity, with the
assistance of Annu, the teacher, to explain to them the
terrible things that happened to the cities of the plain.
156 Explorations in New Guinea.
Having completed what may be aptly called a
practical lecture under difficulties, I caused one of the
pieces of tobacco I had brought in a sack with me to
be given to each man there assembled. They all
expressed themselves satisfied, and offered to work at
felling cedar trees, so that I might take samples back
with me to Sydney.
It will not be out of place here to mention that on
iny return to Sydney, the same god Seegur was sold to
the trustees of the Sydney Museum, for £20, which
sum was handed over to the London Missionary
Society, who promised that it should be used to pay
the expenses of a native teacher for the first two years.
The interview with the native tribes over, several
cedar trees were selected and felled by my own people
and by the aid of a cross-cut saw made into suitable
lengths, the natives clearing a track and rolling them
to the river's bank. In the evening the whole party
returned to the vessel.
Being anxious to ascertain the nature of the
country, I remained on shore and held a consultation
with the Greek already mentioned as known by the
sobriquet of " Old Louis," and who had long been
residing on and about the Katow River. The result
Absentees with " Old Louis^ 1 57
was that I decided to send a party away into the
interior under the guidance of Louis, while I remained
to secure specimens of the cedar and other valuable
timbers which in this part were growing in great pro-
vision.
On my return to the ship a party was detailed
to start on the following morning, and, with a Working
party in the steam launch, we towed them in the ship's
boat to the junction, where they landed and proceeded
in a north-west direction towards the Fly River. The
remainder of the day was spent in towing cedar logs
to the ship, stowing them away, and making prepara-
tions for our homeward voyage.
On the third day the launch was dispatched up the
river to wait for the party, but returned late in the
afternoon without them. As they were only provi-
sioned for two days, I became uneasy, and ordered the
launch to return and wait until nightfall. In the
meantime I made preparations to proceed on the
following morning into the interior to look for the
absentees, but shortly before dusk, I was relieved
to see the launch steaming down the river with all
on board.
The country was described as magnificent, but as
158 Explorations in New Guinea.
-1—1 II I I -■ I I 1 - - I - ■ 11- ■TIT W- - T - • • - -
usual in a party going away without a recognised
head, there bad been considerable friction amongst
themselves, so much so that old Louis assured me he
was glad to get them safely back again. He reported
that while camped between two tribes of strange
natives, the man whose duty it was to keep watch had
fallen asleep, and he therefore decided to return to the
ship, which he would not have otherwise done, because,
although only provisioned for two days, an abundance
of native food was to be procured in the interior.
From my own people the reports were exceedingly
conflicting, so that I regretted having allowed them to
go a second time by themselves into New Guinea.
Having completed taking in my timber samples, I
decided to go and see the country for myself, and,
having arranged with Louis to lead me over the same
track, I started on my journey accompanied by two
men. Instead of stopping at the junction, we steamed
up the north-east arm of the river until we came to a
rude bamboo bridge. Here we landed and striking to
the north-west we came to the large populous village of
Koonini where we were surprised to find every house
closed, and the village apparently deserted.
Walking through the village we found seated at the
An Inland March, 1 59
corner of one of the houses an old man to whom I
offered a piece of tobacco^ This he refused to take,
and with an impatient wave of the hand said " Yow,
yow " (Go away, go away). As we emerged from the
village, numbers of youths armed with their bows and
three or four poisoned arrows began to join the party.
These I compelled to march ahead of us and although
many endeavours were made on their part to get
between and behind us, I succeeded in keeping them
together.
We now continued our march for many miles, pass-
ing through much rich vegetation and many well-tilled
gardens ; the large bunches of bananas were carefully
covered with mats to prevent them being destroyed by
the birds, the tara and yam plantations were also well
kept and free from weeds. Cocoanut trees were
everywhere abundant and many lovely flowers. Also
pendent from the tree branches was a creeper having
a great sword4ike pod, commonly known as the
Queensland bean.
At a distance oi about five miles from Koonini we
came upon another village through which the party
had passed. Here also we found the place apparently
deserted ; such inhabitants as remained ran into their
l6o Explorations in New Guinea.
houses as soon as they saw us, and closed the doors.
As before, only one man remained visible, and he
refused to accept anything from us or to respond to
our demonstrations of friendliness, but kept repeating
the one word ** Yow, yow."
Determined, if possible, to go over the ground
covered by the party, we still continued to the north-
west, and as we proceeded some uneasiness was
occasioned us by noticing standing by every remark-
able tree, a native armed with his poisoned arrows and
bow as for war, who, as we passed, joined the throng,
which by this time numbered no less than fifty, and was
surrounding us on all sides. We continued, however,
until we came to a magnificent spring, a gi'eat pool of
clear crystal water the depth of which we could neither
see nor fathom. There are numerous similar springs
scattered over the land and it is from these that I have
been led to the conclusion that the many rivers which
intersect this part of the coast, if they do not run
directly from the Fly River, are fed by an under
current.
Having remained a few moments here, we again
continued, until we made the bank of the river where
we stopped to rest, my own party of four being in-
Suspicions of the Natives, i6i
strueted to keep close together and on no conditions to
turn their backs to the natives.
Turning to some of my people either to give an
order or to make some remark, I caught a native in
the act of drawing his hand across his throat, while
another was pointing at me. Going up to the man
and looking him straight in the face, I said in
English, *' Do that again." Although of course he
could not understand the words, he understood my
looks and appeared somewhat crest-fallen.
Being now convinced that something had happened
between the natives and my own party I determined
to return to Mowatta and secure the services of inter-
preters, so that I might find out the cause of the
natives' grievances ; for as they had hitherto been
friendly I could not but believe that something had
occurred to change that friendliness into hostility and
distrust. I was therefore gratified to learn that there
was a track by which we could return to the launch
without again having to pass through the villages.
This we followed and arrived at the launch late in the
evening, where 1 found the two men left, in charge had
not in any way been molested. Steam was got up,
and in due course we arrived at Mowatta.
M
1 62 Explorations in New Guinea,
Upon a consultation with the chief, the mission
teacher, and the Beche-de-mer man already spoken
of, there was a consensus of opinion that something
must have been done by my own people to cause such
a sudden change in the bearing and disposition of the
natives, and it was arranged that they should
accompany me on the following day to again interview
the tribes, so that we might find out the cause of their
hostile demonstrations, and if possible explain them
away.
Returning to the vessel, I held consultations
privately with various members of the Expedition, but
as each had something to say against another, I could
form no opinion and passed a restless night.
In the morning, accompanied by the interpreters
and a number of Mowatta natives, we again returned,
and, landing, soon arrived at the second village, where
an explanation was demanded. Imagine my indigna-
tion and surprise when I gathered that one of my
J)eople, through sheer want of thought and brag-
gadocio, had seized one of the natives, a man who had
never seen a white man before, by the bead, drawn his
bowie knife and said we were come to cut all their
throats. It was simply the act of a madman and
We part good Friends. 163
might have cost every member of the party his life, or
at any rate have ended in a great eflFusion of bloud,
To the natives I again explained that oiir visit was
one of peace and not of war, that the man was foolish
and did not know what he was doing, and that he
should not again come among them. Presents were
then oflFered and accepted and we parted apparently
good friends, but both the mission teacher and the chief
assured me that although I had endeavoured to eradi-
cate the false impression created by this man — who, it
may be mentioned, was the one already spoken of as
the old Australian bushman — that the natives would
talk it over among themselves and it would go from
tribe to tribe until they would believe it to be true ;
and that, sooner or later, through having taken as into
the country, they, the people of Mowatfci, would be
attacked by the bush tribes. The missionary added,
" I am missionary, I must die, I have no gun, I must
not fight" The chief also pleaded with me to leave
him some ammunition.
I was eager and anxious to supply to these men the
means of protecting themselves, but the law, «.«» already
stated, is such, that whenever a white man gives, sells
or barters firearms or ammunition to a native he lays
M 2
1 64 Explorations in New Guinea.
himself open to three months' imprisonment without the
option of a fine.
I returned to the ship and promised to think the
matter carefully over, and in the morning I landed and
took the London Missionary Society's teacher back
with me to the ship. I then presented him with a
Winchester rifle and one hundred cartridges, asking
him first to sign the following receipt in the ship's log
book: —
** Received from Captain John Strachan, of the
Exploring Schooner 'Herald,' one twelve-shot
Winchester rifle to be delivered by me to the Rev.
Harry Scott, Superintendent of the London Missionary
Society's Mission, New Guinea, with the compliments
of the donor.
** Signed, Annu, Mianonary^ MowcUta,
** Witness, George Burgess, Mate"
For the rev. gentleman I also left a letter requesting
him, if he did not require the rifle, to allow the teacher
to keep it, and from him I received a most cordial
letter in reply stating that he had no need of a rifle>
neither did the Missionary Society recognize that any
of their teachers required a carnal weapon to defend
The Village of Turi-Turi. 165
themselves, but committed themselves to the care of the
God of battles.
Our work in the interior of New Gmnea for this
Expedition was now drawing to a close, and the
changes of the monsoons were rapidly approaching. It
therefore became our duty to prepare for the home-
ward voyage. Several trips were made to Massagari^
a bush village to the westward of Mowatta. This
being a facsimile of the villages already described I
need not weary my readers by useless repetition, but
should here say what I have omitted before, that in
the many journeys into the interior my attention had
been attracted to a pretty tulip-like bulb. I now
determined to take some specimens with me to Sydney.
Having gathered a sufficient quantity, they were sub-
mitted on return to the ship to the old Indian planter
before mentioned and pronounced by him to be tur-
meric, largely used in the manufacture of curry. We
also discovered ginger, and the natives were set to
work to collect specimens of these two staples, and
also to gather kapok (a species of tree cotton), of
which we obtained large samples.
A visit to the village of Turi-Turi disclosed to
us a new phase of native life. The houses here were
1 66 Explorations in New Guinea,
exactly like those represented by Mr. Jukes in his
account of the voyage of the " Bramble " and " Fly "
on the shores of the Papuan Gulf in 1843-45,
Some of the houses were from 100 to 150 feet in
length, and the men and women lived in separate
houses, not even the married people living together. It
is a strange arrangement and one not reconcilable with
European ideas of domestic comfort. The houses are
raised from the ground and a broad step ladder leads
to a platform at either end. There are also platforms
round the sides with several small doors or openings at
intervals along the buildings, which have much the
appearance of roughly constructed barns, or perhaps it
would be a better description to say badly built hay-
ricks.
As we entered the village, the women came
crowding out on the platform eager to purchase
looking-glasses, handkerchiefs, and other finery, for
which they exchanged their combs, plumes made of
Paradise feathers, work bags, and other articles of
native industry. To the old chief I presented a
tomahawk and by him was asked if I wished to
purchase " some man's head." I asked to see them.
He returned to his house and came out followed by two
Work of this Expedition. 167
men carrying a string of human skulls well smoked,
grim and ghastly, attached to a piece of bamboo, in
the same manner as the Channel Islanders string
onions.
Considering it possible that the skulls might be of
value for scientific purposes, I purchased three, which
were presented to medical gentlemen of scientific
proclivities in Sydney. One was sent through Dr.
Ashwell of that city to his old Professor, Sir William
Turner, the College of Surgeons, Edinburgh. Here
we also purchased numerous pigs, cocoanuts, tara,
yams, and plantains; and some half-dozen canoes
returned laden to the ship, while we went back by
the beach to Mowatta.
The actual work of this Expedition in New Guinea
was now accomplished, a large and varied stock of
samples of the products and natural resources of
the Island had been secured, a large expanse of country
traversed and fourteen different tribes of natives
met with and interviewed, and in all cases friendly
relations had been established, and not one hostile shot
fired. I therefore felt that I could return again to the
south with feelings of satisfaction at the result of
an Expedition, carried out under many disadvantages
1 68 Explorations in New Guinea.
•
and difficulties, but which nevertheless would compare
favourably with some others that had left the shores of
New South Wales. Throughout the whole Expedition
the men had been kept well in hand, and no native
had been unjustly treated, for the incidents already
mentioned as having caused me regret were but exem-
plifications of Hood's lines that :— *
"Evil is wrought by want of thought
As well as want of heart."
The peoples we had met varied in colour from
a glossy coal-black in Strachan Island and the parts to
the westward, to a decided brown as we drew nearer the
shores of the Papuan Gulf. In the latter districts were
many remarkable men and women with skins as red as
those of the American Indians. The black men were
all cannibals, wild, dashing active fellows, " native heroes
trained to war," but not addicted to any of the
disgusting vices so common amongst the brown skin
races living near to the western shores of the Papuan
Gulf.
On board the ship all was activity, some were stowing
away and packing up their curiosities, others lashing
water casks and making everything secure for the
homeward passage. The steam launch was hoisted in
We return to Sydney. 169
' i III I ■
and fasteoed, and at length all was in readiness for
the homeward voyage. The two Bechede-mer men
already mentioned (Francis and Martin) were left to
watch over and protect my interests under a written
agreement. Provisions, trade and arms of the value of
£100 were supplied to them, witli which they were
to pay the natives for felling cedar against my return^
To the mission teacher, the chief, and people I made
my parting presents. Then crossing Torres Straits I
anchored in Albany Pass for a few hours and landed
at Somerset to pay my respects to Mr. Frank L.
Jardine.
Returning to the ship we again proceeded to the
south and in due com^e arrived at Sydney. There
I found I had to deplore the untimely death of Major-
General Sir Peter Scratchley, Her Majesty's first
Commissioner to New Guinea. He was a gallant
soldier and an eminent engineer, who had rendered
valuable service to the people of Australia. He had
faults, but they were of the head, not of the heart, and
had he been spared to gain greater experience in his
office, there is no doubt in my mind that he would
have made an able and vigorous Administrator.
At this time much influence was being brought
I/O Explorations in New Guinea.
to bear, more especially by a section of the people
in Queensland, to secure the appointment for Mr.
John Douglas, who at one time had been Queensland
Premier. These efforts were so far successful that
Mr. Douglas received an acting commission, on receipt
of which he very quickly gave evidence that he was^
the last man in Australia fitted to guide the fortunes
of a newly acquired territory where there were so
many conflicting interests. A man without confidence
in himself, he naturally leaned on others, who led
him as their interests or inclinations prompted. The
result was that he succeeded in estranging many of his
best friends. He insulted the heads of several of the
Colonial Governments, for which he apologised, and
after a short reign of eighteen months was compelled
to resign to make room for a better and an abler man.
I need not weary the reader by saying more. This
gentleman has now retired and sunk into the obscurity
from which he should never have been taken, but it is
to be hoped that in the future, under the wise rule of
better and more able men, the vast natural resources of
New Guinea will be developed until that beautiful and
still practically unknown territory becomes not the least
valuable or important dependency of the British Crown.
( 171 )
CHAPTEE XL
MY THIED EXPEDITION TO KEW GUINEA.
Attitude of the new Commissioner — ^Feeling in New South
Wales — Discavery of Gold-fields in Western Australia —
McClure's Gulf — ^Followers of Islam — ^Abdul Delili, Rajah
of the <iulf Tribes — Spudeen takes refuge on board my Ship
— ^Mr. Hartog's Report of McClure's Gulf — A Journey inland
with the Rajah — ^Aspect of the Country— Patipi Bay.
The work accomplished during my second expedition
was commented upon in favourable, not to say
flattering, terms by the whole of the leading Colonial
press, and I had moreover the countenance and
support of the most intelligent and influential part of
the population of New South Wales. Therefore I lost
no time in applying to the new Commissioner for the
fiilfilment of the concessions promised in writing by his
lamented predecessor.
After considerable correspondence, I deemed it my
duty to wait upon him personally. The result of
172 Explorations in New Guinea,
our interview was not satisfactory and ended by
the Commissioner informing *me that " as all pioneers
and explorers lost their money I should have to
lose mine." This he afterwards to some extent
retracted and promised in writing that when Her
Majesty's sovereignty was proclaimed the claims I
put forward would be acknowledged ; he also oflFered
me a permit to return to the 'country, an altogether
un-English proceeding, and one which I accordingly
declined to accept.
Returning to my home, the matter was taken up by
such papers as the Sydney Morning Herald^ the
Evening News, and the Brisbane Daily Telegraph;
some of which criticised the action of the Commissioner
in no measured terms.
Secure in the good feeling of New South Wales and
of the ultimate recognition of my claims by Her
Majesty's Government I determined to continue my
explorations, not only for the purpose of strengthening
my own individual claims to properties I had acquired
in New Guinea, but also from a broader and more
patriotic motive— the advancement and development of
the trade of those great islands for the benefit of the
great Australian Commonwealth.
Gold-fields in Western Australia, 173
Circumstances did not favour my immediate return
to New Guinea^ but when I was almost despairing of
being able to do so, news arrived of the discovery
of gold-fields in Western Australia.
The excitement caused in Sydney by this intelli-
gence was intense. ' Steamer after steamer left the
wharves laden with their living freight. Sailing ships
were put into requiation to carry round stores.
Believing that, if one of the first in the field with a
cargo, I should clear at least a hundred per cent., I
loaded up a cargo of the value of some £1 600 at my
own risk, and made one of a fleet of five vessels
which left Port Jackson bound for Derby, Western
Australia, on the 18th of June 1886. I had not one
penny of insurance on my cargo, hence it was
fortunate that, out of the five sailing vessels which left
the Southern ports mine was the only one to arrive at
its destination without accident ; some were totally lost.
We found on arrival in North- West Australia
that the reports had been vastly exaggerated and that
there were no purchasers for cargo. Thus, as a
natural consequence, all perishable goods had to be
thrown overboard, to the value of nearly £400, and ere
I left my losses amounted to considerably over £1000.
174 Explorations in New Guinea,
But my plans had to be carried out in their entirety
and with this extra load on my shoulders I shaped a
course for McClure's Gulf, North- West New Guinea.
Passing the islands of Dana and Douw we sailed
along the coast of Rottie, across the Straits of Shemau,
and shaped a course through the Omba passage which
runs between the islands of Timor and Allore. At
the latter island some years since a well-known sea
captain, Francis Cadell, was murdered and his ship
burnt to the water's edge by order of the Bajah of
Allore. As the death of this officer and the loss of his
vessel had been shrouded in mystery, I made enquiry
as to the cause of his murder, which so far as I can
gather was brought on through his own cruelty to the
natives.
Passing from here, we sighted the islands of
Amljoyna and Saparua and anchored for one day at
the small island of Rouen, in the Banda group. From
there we proceeded along the southern shores of the
great island Ceram until we reached the Keefing
Straits, separating the islands of Gissor and Kiliwaru
from a cluster of small islands on a reef which extends;
several miles ofiF the eastern end of Ceram.
Being now in soundings, the lead indicating fifteen
Depth of the Water, 175
fathoms, we decided to anchor, and landed at Gissor,
where a Dutch Commandant holds post, for the
purpose of obtaining some information as to the
character of the natives on the New Guinea coast
adjacent. The ship was rounded to and the anchor let
go in 200 fathoms of water.
So abruptly does the water deepen in these seas,
where the islands are all volcanic, that a drift of less
than fifteen fathoms had altered the soundings from
fifteen fathoms to two hundred. As the tide swept us
through the straits our only course was to weigh
anchor, make sail and continue our voyage towards
New Guinea, the high land of which we discovered at
daylight on the following morfaing.
By noon we were sailing along the coast within a
few hundred yards of the shore, but to one acquainted
with Southern New Guinea from the Papuan Gulf to
the westward, the country here presents a marked
contrast. There we first beheld a low swampy
mangrove shore with mud-fiats extending miles to the
seaward. Here we had a bold coast line : mountains
rising abruptly from the water's edge to the height of
many thousand feet, densely wooded from base to
summit, whilst dashing down their precipitous sides
1
\
176 Explorations in New Guinea,
were streams of excellent fresh waten The depth of
water is so great, — ninety and a hundred fathoms — that
we sailed along within a stone's throw of the shore in
perfect safety.
We reached McClure's Gulf at four p.m. and to-
wards evening entered a small bay in the centre of
which stood a solitary rock. Inside of this we anchored
at six p.m. in eight fathoms of water between the main-
land and the small island of Wass. So soon as all was
secured, the boat was launched and we rowed round
the island.
Sighting two canoes, several shots were fired to
attract attention, but the natives paid no heed to our,
^gnals and paddled rapidly away. We returned to
the ship, pausing on the way to examine some deserted
houses on the island.
At eight o'clock armed watches were set for the
night, the officer of the watch remidning forward while
one man was stationed at the gangway and the other
at the cabin door. At three a.m. the watch called me
and reported that two large prows had pushed off from
the mainland and were paddlmg silently down
towards the ship.
The men were called to their arms and when all was
McClure's Gulf, 177
in readiness the prows were hailed in Malayan. There
was no response, and the interpreter was ordered to
hail them again. This was done three times, when
receiving no answer and as they were now within fifty
yards of the ship, the men were instructed to prepare
to fire a volley, to aim low and endeavour to strike the
prows at the water line, taking time from myself.
The volley was fired at the nearest prow. W6
distinctly heard the bullets strike the timber and
through the darkness saw the craft heel over, but still
the natives uttered no cry. The leading craft seemed
to alter her course, however, and presented a con-
siderable broadside towards us. This the Malays of
my crew said was caused by the natives being all in the
water on the other side. The second prow also sheered
off and although several volleys were fired we heard no
sound of human voices and the prows were soon lost in
the darkness.
With the first streak of dawn we made sail and
proceeded up the Gulf; at seven o'clock the look-out
from the masthead reported a flotilla of fifty war-
canoes paddling along in shore. The men were
got under arms and we ran down among them, and
then — rounding the ship to — waited until the nearest
N
178 Explorations in New Guinea,
canoe came alongside. This they did with every
demonstration of friendliness and informed me that
they were the Roearabati, Patipi, Salakiti, Taur and
Segar men on the war path to fight against the
Rajah and people of Ati Ati who had previously
murdered a Prince and two Rajahs from Tidore,
the Sultan of which island is, by an arrangement
made with the Dutch some eighty years ago, Lord
Paramount of North-West New Guinea. They
emphatically declared that the prows into which
we had fired that morning were manned by the
people of Ati Ati, and that had it not been for the
vigilance of the watch and the warmth of their
reception we in all probability should have been at-
tacked and murdered.
Many of their canoes came alongside and we saw
that the men were all armed with old-fashioned
flint lock Tower muskets, besides a goodly supply
of bows, arrows, and spears.
They informed me that they were followers of Islam.
Many of them were gorgeously dressed in green
silk tunics, and Wore the Mahometan fez or cap, which
in some cases was richly embroidered. In some
instances the nether garments were kept together
Followers of Islam, 179
by a silken girdle over which they had a belt of
plaited grass. Into this belt were inserted rows of
bamboo tubes containing powder ; in a net-bag
suspended from their shoulders they carried bullets
or slugs, while in another bag they carried the
inevitable scare box with their betel nut for chewing. .
They were very demonstrative and talkative, readily
answering any question put to them, mostly in the
affirmative. But I subsequently discovered that their
answers were usually diametrically opposite to the
truth.
It was decided that one prow should remain and
return with us to Roeambati, the abode of Abdul
Delili, the Kapala or head Rajah of all the Gulf tribes,
who was confined to his house by a severe attack of
asthma. The other prows continued on their way
to fight the Ati Ati men.
The ship was kept away and at ten o'clock we
anchored about a cable's length from the shore at
the village of Roeambati.
Selecting a few presents I landed, accompanied
by my interpreters, at a staging in front of the
village, which after the custom of the Malays, more
especially the Mahometans, is built on posts in the
N 2
l8o Explorations in New Guinea,
shallow waters of the bay and at such a distance*
from the shore that at the spring tides water rises
to within a few inches of the floors of the houses.
The staging on which we larded was a rickety one.
We were met by such of the chief men as were not
on the war path, and were conducted round a number
of houses at considerable risk to neck and limb, to say
nothing of the chance of tumbling into the water, until
we arrived at the dwelling of the great man, Abdul
Delili.
H6 received us in state on a platform in front of his
house. A calico canopy had been spread overhead,
and clean native mats on the floor, in the centre of
which a large four-legged table had been placed, a
cotton quilt doing service for a table-cloth. A couple
of arm-chairs were brought from the house and placed
pne at each end of the table for the Rajah and myself.
The chiefs and ray interpreters sat on either side on
old boxes, baskets, blocks of wood, &c. When seated,
I presented, through the interpreters, the articles I had
brought for the Rajah.
His dress consisted of a pair of spring-side boots,
black alpaca trousers, white calico shirt, black alpacja
coat, Mahometan cap, and a pair of large Chinese
Abdul Delili. i8l
horn-rim spectacles. In front of hira on the table lay
his open journal in which he keeps a daily record of
events, written in Arabic characters. His appearance
did not prepossess me in his favour, his quick restless
eyes and twitching mouth denoting cunning and
duplicity. His features were of the Arab type and he
presented all the aspects of a wizened cunning old
miser, of whom I should imagine Dickens's Fagin in
' Oliver Twist' to be a fairly representative specimen.
As I sat opposite to him I could not help reflecting
that he was a man capable of doing a great deal of
mischief and suflSciently cunning to throw the blame
upon others. But for all this I found him keen and
intelligent, reading arid writing Arabic fluently, with a
knowledge of men and things hardly to be expected
from a native of New Guinea.
He had obtained from some signal books copies of
the flags of all nations save the English, which^ strange
to say, were wanting.
His ideas, too, of the power of the Sultan of Turkey
were absurdly at fault, for he believed the Sultan to
be the greatest potentate on earth, and Mecca and
Medina the largest and most wonderful cities in the
world.
1 82 Explorations in New Guinea,
He informed me that he held sway over the whole
of the Gulf tribes, whom he had summoned to punish
the Rajah of Ati Ati for having murdered the Prince
and the two Bajahs from Tidore. He further informed
me that the villages in the Gulf contained ten thousand
inhabitants, but before our conversation had finished
he assured me that they held at least seventy million
of inhabitants, and this he said without a blush I
When the subject of purchasing a cargo of spices
and other articles was broached, he at first said we
had come too late and too soon, meaning that we
were too late for the one season and too early for the
other, but said he would come on board the ship, when
he would be able to tell me if I should be likely to
secure a cargo.
We were then shown round the village, which con-
sisted of ten houses and a Mahometan mosque, none
of the houses being large. On returning, I enquired
the number of inhabitants in the village. With the
utmost effrontery, he replied: "More than twelve
hundred." As a matter of fact, it was impossible that
the houses could contain two hundred souls.
On returning to the house of the Rajah, I found
several of the inhabitants had brought net-bags of
Spudeen takes Refuge on Board my Ship. 183
nutmegs for sale, but the prices asked were so exorbi-
tant, that I returned to the ship, and gave orders to
heave up anchor and get under weigh. This had the
desired eflFect, and I was able to purchase all the nut-
megs they had to dispose of at the rate of about six-
teen shillings per picul.
The anchorage here being unsafe, and without
shelter from the westerly winds, we proceeded a few
miles up the coast, and anchored in a snug land-locked
bay near the villages of Patipi and Salikiti ; the Rajahs
o^each came on board during the afternoon to pay
their respects, accompanied by their sons, whom they
left on board as hostages for our safety. As, however,
each young rajah brought with him a dozen followers,
I deemed it necessary as a matter of precaution, to
keep the ship's company continually under arms.
After dark a small canoe came off from the shore in
which was an old Malay and his son, who, so soon as
he reached the ship's gangway, asked in Malay : ** Is
this an English ship ? "
On being answered in the affirmative, he said :
"Then here I stop, if Alufurus come. Englishmen
fight ; " and turning to his son, said : " We are safe
now, Madhi, Papua men cannot hurt us here."
184 Explorations in New Guinea,
He then asked for the Nakoda (captain). He was
brought aft to me, but he spoke with such volubility that
I had to request him to stop, so that the interpreter
might translate what he was saying, my own know-
ledge of the language at that time being somewhat
imperfect.
He said his name was Spudeen, and that of his son
Madhi; that they were natives of Saparua, near
Amboyna ; that by trade he was a goldsmith. They
had come over to trade in a small way, with
ornaments amongst the natives of New Guinea, by
whom they had been plundered and would have l>een
murdered but for our timely arrival. He requested
that I would give shelter and protection until oppor-
tunity offered of landing them on one of the islands of
the Austro-Malayan Archipelago, from whence they
could get to their homes.
To their request I readily acceded, and towards
midnight, another poor wretch reached the ship badly
wounded, craving shelter and protection. This was
also granted, and the three remained on board the
ship until I was enabled to land them in safety at
Gissor.
In the morning we had another visitor, one Anga-
Mr, Har tog's Report 185
wearo, a native of Cerara, who infonned me that he
acted as trade master to Mr. Hartog, a Dutch mer-
chant, who visited the Gulf in the steamer "Egrou"
in 1877 and subsequently made several voyages
thither.
On his return from his first voyage Mr. Hartog sent
a report, which was published under the auspices of the
Royal Geographical Society, London, a portion of
which runs as follows : —
" All the bays or creeks on the west coast of New
Guinea which offer a safe anchoring place to small
craft as well as larger vessels are surpassed by
McClure Gulf which is broad, deep, and in every way
superior to them, land bordered by impenetrable high
woods surrounds the inlet, the woods yield several
productions the principal of which are nutmegs. There
are living along the Gulf about 12,000 inhabitants in
forty villages. The heat was on an average less than
at Java. There prevailed the fresh breezy atmosphere
and there was no complaint about violent epidemic
diseases. New Guinea is thickly populated (?).
Agriculture is carried on, good tobacco is cultivated,
and trepang (Beche-de-mer), turtle and an abundance
of cattle and poultry are found."
1 86 Explorations in New Guinea,
The people according to his experience are neither
savage, cunning nor treacherous, as most authorities
described them, but rather lively and energetic, showing
great eagerness for bartering.
The whole of the above quotation, as I shall sub-
sequently show, is altogether inaccurate ; at the same
time it is but fair to Mr. Hartog that I inform my
readers that he wrote, not from his own knowledge, but
from informatioti received from Rajah Abdul Delili
during a short stay of one week. He did not himself
venture farther up the Gulf tkan Segar Bay.
That Mr. Hartog had no intention to mislead is self-
evident from the fact that he returned, and in
subsequent voyages learnt to his cost how thoroughly
unreliable, cunning and treacherous were these followers
of Islam.
This man Angawearo made oflFer to act in the same
capacity for me and assured me that he had conducted
Mr. Hartog's business to that gentleman's entire satis-
faction. He was asked for certificates from Mr. Hartoff
but could not produce any and assured me that they
were not usual among the tribes.
Being anxious to secure a cargo, I entrusted him
with trade to the value of £150, the Rajah Abdul
A Journey Inland, 187
Delili, in his capacity of Chief and High Priest of the
Mahometan religion, becoming guarantor and giving
himself up to me as a hostage for Angawearo's fidelity.
Having secured the goods Angawearo, who owned a
large junk, proceeded up Patipi Bay ostensibly to
purchase nutmegs, birds of paradise, &c
The Rajah Abdul Delili having examined my ship's
hold, assured me that when once they fairly started the
cargo would come alongside so rapidly that I should fill
up in three days, and he suggested in the meantime
that I should accompany him to the mountains and see
for myself the splendid palla or nutmeg country.
Having carefully considered this proposal, I decided
to accept it, but was strongly urged by my own people
not to run the risk, and old Spudeen assured me that
when once in the interior I should be murdered and the
Rajah would return and pretend that I had been killed
by the Alufurus.
Being, however, determined to see the country so
that 1 might form some idea of its resources I thought
it worth the risk, and taking with me one single
Malayan boy for an interpreter I accepted the Rajah's
invitation.
Before leaving the ship I made up two heavy charges
1 88 Explorations in New Guinea.
of dynamite, with cap and fuse attached, each
weighing half a pound ; then buckling on a short
cutlass and my revolver, and slinging my Winchester
rifle over my shoulder I gave a Snider carbine to
the Malay and accompanied the Rajah to Taur Bay
near Roeambati.
Prior to leaving the ship the man whom I had
promoted from an able seaman to acting mate was
instructed to be cautious and vigilant and not to allow
any canoes alongside during my absence ; in event
of my failing to return at sunset to get under weigh
and stand off shore.
Entering Taur Bay we pulled to the village of that
name, which consisted of seven houses and about
eighty inhabitants. Here we had a long conversation
with the people, made several small presents and
arranged to purchase from them some nutmegs of the
last season's growth. At about nine in the morning we
prepared to land on the south side of the bay.
No sooner had we left the village than five or six
canoes shot out, bringing with them a party of not
less than fifty men.
Having only the Malayan boy with me, and not
liking the appearance of so many men all armed
A Journey Inland, 189
to the teeth with bows and arrows, spears, long
macassar knives, tomahawks and flint-lock muskets,
I enquired of the Rajah if it was necessary that so
large a force should accompany us. He said that
it was because at any moment we might be attacked
by the Alufurus or Ati Ati men. This led me to
ask how the fight between his men and the men
of Ati Ati ended. He said there had been no fio^ht
as there had been no enemy.
Not feeling comfortable amongst so many, and
remembering the urgency with which old Spudeen
requested me not to go, I ordered the whole of the
canoes to go ahead. Then taking from my haversack
a half-pound charge of dynamite I cut the fuse to
six inches, lit it and threw it into the water
among a shoal of fishes. The volume of water
it threw up was immense, besides which it killed
thousands of fishes and struck terror into the
natives who, however, soon recovered from their
fright and jumping overboard collected a great quantity
of fish.
Their excitement was intense. When it had some-
what abated I called the canoes around and assured
them that it would be no more diflScult for me to
190 Explorations in New Guinea,
exterminate every man of them, than it had been
to kill the fish.
The eflFect was excellent, as the natives who were
now thoroughly frightened gave me to understand
that it was their intention to be faithful good friends.
Paddling into a little cove on the south side of the
bay we landed beside a clear rippling stream and,
having ordered the whole of the men to march in
Indian file in front, we started by a little rugged
path into the mountains, with my interpreter im-
mediately behind me and the Rajah just in front.
Every foot of the journey, which was laborious in
the extreme, disclosed fresh scenes of verdure and
tropical splendour. Winding along the sides of deep
ravines, sometimes dragging ourselves up by the
creepers and undergrowth, we ultimately attained an
altitude of about 1000 feet above the sea and then
entered the nutmeg country. Here we halted and
rested. The Rajah pulled some of the nutmegs and
explained how far they were from being ripe.
Having rested suflSciently, we again started forward
and after scrambling along for about an hour we gained
a fine piece of tableland, over which we travelled for
about another half an hour, when we reached three
Aspect of the Country, 191
houses erected in the very heart of the forest. These
were used by the natives for drying the nutmegs.
The country was everywhere magnificent and the
aroma of the spice-laden air, delicious. Nutmeg
and other equally valuable trees were everywhere
growing in great profusion. The fruit of the nutmeg
in appearance resembles a pear, and when ripe opens
and displays the nut covered with a beautiful red
coating of mace. The nuts are then picked from
the tree, put into baskets and taken to the houses,
where they are husked and placed on shelves. They
are then partially roasted over a slow fire until all
the moisture is extracted. After this they are cooled
and carried down to the village in nets ready to be
bartered to the Bugis, Arabs and other traders who
frequent the Gulf in their small prows or junkos at
the proper season.
Gladly would I have remained here for a few days
to have seen something of the interior of this fair and
magnificent land, but the sense of insecurity and
anxiety for my ship and people decided me to
return, as the sun was far past the meridian.
Owing to the rugged nature of the path the descent
was somewhat perilous and was not accomplished with-
192 Explorations in New Guinea.
out some nasty falls, one of which landed me at the
bottom of a ravine. These accidents, although trifling
in themselves, were attended by considerable danger
owing to my weapons being loaded and also from the
possibility of the dynamite I carried exploding.
The descent was at last, however, accomplished and I
succeeded in reaching the ship after dark, just in time
to prevent the mate obeying my orders by standing
out to sea.
. The Eajah of Roearabati, according to the agreement
between him and Angawearo, remained on board all
night. Towards morning Rajah Pandi of Segar also
came alongside bringing some nutmegs for sale, which
were purchased, and in the morning another start was
made for Segar Bay twenty-five miles further up the
Gulf, which was the extreme limit reached by Hartog.
The information supplied in the sailing directions
was very meagre and altogether inaccurate. Great
caution was therefore rendered necessary on our part,
more especially in leaving the Bay. We accordingly
made arrangements with the Rajah to supply us with a
loas or pilot who was well acquainted with all the
outlying dangers. ;
Patipi Bay is about seven miles wide and faces to
Patipi Bay. 193
the west. It is well sheltered by several small islands
and reefs and its entrance is completely land-locked.
It affords excellent shelter for well-armed and well-
manned vessels. Having cleared the islands and reefs,
we stood up the Gulf, making about a north-east
course until we reached the northern shore, where
we anchored for the night in eleven fathoms of water
off a small village situated at the mouth of a river.
Here the country is low and swampy and the in-
habitants are in a state of natural savagery. Large
quantities of sago and arrowroot are coarsely manu-
factured and furnish not only the staple food of the
inhabitants, but also their only article of trade with
their half- civilized Mahometan neighbours on the
opposite shore.
That the sago palm must grow here in great abun-
dance is evident from the fact, that for one American
axe we purchased ten hundredweight of sago and one
hundredweight of arrowroot.
Here, also, the Eajahs come to purchase or capture
slaves as best suits their convenience — but of this
hereafter.
Although the shores of this portion of New Guinea
are low, mountain ranges rising to heights of fourteen
194 Explorations in New Guinea,
thousand feet are seen far into the interior. This
part of the country is known by the name of Polo
Berau (or the Island of Berau).
In the morning we continued up the Gulf towards
Segar, but having to contend with strong adverse tides
and currents, together with a head wind, it was the
fourth day ere we reached our destination, a distance
of twenty-five miles from Patipi.
( 195 )
CHAPTER XII
BARTERINa WITJI THE NATIVES.
Segar Bay — Kajah Pandi — Picturesqueness of the Scenery — A
decaying Race — A Reception by the Rajah — Negotiations for
Nutmegs — A Crowd of Extortioners — The Bird of Paradise
— Clearing the Decks — I take Spudeen's Advice.
The scenery as we entered Segar Bay was very
beautiful. Dotted across its mouth are numerous
little islands densely wooded, between each of which
are deep water channels, the strong tides rippling like
a boiling cauldron.
As we stood in towards the anchorage with our
colours flying, a large prow pushed off from the shore
with drums and gongs beating and many Mahometan
flags flying from poles, while above all was the ensign
of the Netherlands. The men chanted a rather
pleasing boat song, to the time of which they paddled.
The refrain was as follows . —
"Ana kori, koki tori, aris aris, paran pua, pendi-pendi,
samuna, laki-laki, ana kori, koki tori, ariss aris:?."
2
196 Explorations in New Guinea.
On a platform and stage in the midship of the prow
stood our old friend Rajah Pandi, dressed in hright
scarlet and gold and beating time with his umbrella.
We came to an anchor, and the natives paddled three
times round the ship, fired several volleys from their
flint-lock muskets, and then Came alongside.
Old Pandi presented me with a bird of paradise
and bade us welcome to Segar. He then introduced
us to his son, a rather pleasing young man of about
nineteen years of age, by name Abdul Achman.
His people, having secured the prow alongside, quickly
came on board and, fraternising with the Rajah's people,
presented a rather interesting picture. Some few had
brought trifling articles for sale, and although all were
professedly followers of Islam the universal demand
was for Irepanas (literally fire-water) and Tandown
(opium). These they usually obtain from the Arabs
and Bugis, who, although also professedly faithful
followers of the Prophet, yearly smuggle these articles
by way of Singapore and through the Chinese
merchants located on the islands of the Archipelago.
The Bay of Segar afifords a secure anchorage in five
or six fathoms of water to shipping during every
monsoon. On its shores are three villages with
Picturesqiieness of the Scenery. 197
an aggregate population of not more than twelve
hundred.
The surrounding country is considerably elevated,
exceedingly fertile, and picturesque in appearance.
The forests in the background abound with the
valuable timber trees, of which the chief are black
walnut, ebony, and splendid red woods, besides
nutmegs, indigenous to the soil, and misoi, from the
bark of which valuable oils are extracted. There are
also many woods and herbs valuable for medicinal
purposes ; and wild pigs, the cuscus, the philander or
tree-climbing kangaroo, the wallaby and many similar
animals constitute the fauna of the country. There
are no cattle here, as was erroneously reported by
Hartog, although on the adjacent islands of Ceram
and Kiliwaru deer are abundant. The feathered
tribes present iiany varieties, the chief of which are
the cassowary, several species of the gaura or great
crowned pigeon, some beautiful doves, birds of
paradise, the podargus, racket-tailed kingfishers, lorys
and lorikeets with many other birds of the parrot kind.
The butterflies and insects are innumerable. I was
informed by the natives that a Dutch or German
-naturalist had spent some two months here and made
198 Explorations in New Guinea,
an excellent collection. In the waters of the bay are
numerous small beds of pearl shells, but very few are
collected, as the natives will not dive for them. The
same applies to the trepang or Beche-de-mer, of which
there is an abundance, and in which a large trade
could be initiated if the natives would work.
There is no doubt in my mind that the abundance
of sago, the ease with which a large supply of fish can
be procured, together with the value of the nutmeg
crop and the association with the Mahometan traders,
have injuriously aflFected the natives of these parts
both physically and morally. Having little heed to
labour to procure the necessaries of life, rich in valuable
commodities which they exchange for what is not only
luxurious but pernicious, viz., strong drink and opium,
together with fine clothing, brass guns, gongs, powder,
and muskets, instead of advancing in civilization they
are in my opinion a rapidly decaying race, lazy, trea-
cherous, cruel, thieves and liars, who, without the
appearance of any violent epidemic disease, are
rapidly disappearing from the face of the earth. In a
sojourn of two months and a half in the Gulf, the
death rate was amazingly large, and failing to trace
anything like an epidemic among those people I came
A Decaying Race, 199
to the conclusion that the fiat had gone forth that
they should disappear, to make room for a better and
a nobler people.
Following the Eajah came numerous canoes bring-
ing nutmeg, tortoise, and pearl-shell in small quantities,
some of which were purchased, and it was far into the
night before our decks were cleared of visitors. The
last to go was the Rajah, who left his son as hostage,
and arranged that I should return his visit on the
following day when he would send a prow for me, as I
did not desire to take my own boat and crew away
from the ship.
Throughout the night the men kept sea watches
under arms.
At dawn the prows came oflF from the shores to
trade and considerable barter was effected before the
morning meal. Afterwards, as I had to prepare to
return the visit of the great man, Bajah Pandi, accom-
panied by one more powerful than he, Kapala Rajah
Abdul Delili, the prows were ordered from the ship.
When the last boat had departed, we began to
make our preparations. My own were of the simplest
description ; I had only to examine my revolver and
Winchester, to see that my cutlass worked easily in
200 Explorations in New Guinea,
»
its scabbard and to put my haversack, in which there
were a few presents, over my shoulder.
With my hostage, the Rajah Abdul Delili, the case
was somewhat diflFerent He had first to shave the
heads of his four attendants and then one of those
same attendants had to do the like for him. Ablutions
had next to be performed, and a piece of beeswax
borrowed with which to set up his moustache before a
small looking-glass. At length he came on deck
dressed in a pair of tweed trousers, white cotton shirt,
black alpaca coat, Mahometan cap and a pair of large
Chinese horn spectacles, so that his grotesque appear-
ance caused considerable merriment among the crew,
who were with diflSculty restrained from laughing
outright. Old Spudeen, who loved him not, indulged
in a considerable amount of sneering.
At eleven o'clock a large gaily decorated prow
came oflF to the ship with a gong and drum band to take
us to the house of the Rajah. Having served out
strong spirits to the boatmen, we embarked, and whilst
the drums and gongs were vigorously beaten we pushed
off to the shore. The whole of the way the natives
sang as they bent to the paddles.
As we neared the village, which contained a row of
A Reception by the Rajah, 201
fair-sized houses built as usual on posts and enclosing
a point or tongue of land,^ the natives began to fire/
their flint locks and the men redoubled their efforts
with the drums and gongs ; meanwhile the rowers
bent to their paddles, vigorously singing to a not un-
pleasing tune a boat song of which the refrain, many
times repeated, became indelibly impressed on my
memory, and was as follows : —
"Raja' tour, Rajah mooder,
Raja* mooder, Rajah tour,
' Nakoda Angalice."*
Flag staffs of bamboo were erected, in front
of every house, Dutch, Arab and Chinese flags were
flying, while crowded along the path or stage which
does service for a street were the whole of the
inhabitants of the village, who kept blazing away with
their muskets and waving flags in response to the
people in the prow.
Having rowed at least a dozen times backwards
and forwards along the whole length of the village the
prow remained stationary for a few minutes at the
lower end and the boatmen then paddled slowly along
* Translated literally : The old Rajah, the young Rajah,
and the English Captain.
202 Explorations in New Guinea,
in front of the houses, the owners of which lowered their
flags and tossed them, staves and all, into the prow,
where one of the Rajah's men received them.
This ceremony over, which I confess was both tedious
and tiresome, we were landed at some rough steps
at the house of Rajah Pandi and by him were escorted
with a very great deal of ostentatious ceremony within
doors to the great hall or reception room.
This was positively well furnished. The floor was
covered with a heavy felting of bright colours ; lashed
to posts against the wall were several large brass
cannons, a proof of the wealth of the Rajah, while
at the upper end of the room on a raised platform
or dais was a common sea-chest, such as sailors use, with
a covering of cloth of gold and a cushion as a seat of
honour for the Kapala Rajah Abdul Delili and myself,
the Rajah's seat being somewhat higher than my own.
Rajah Pandi had reserved for himself an ottoman at
our feet. The remainder of the company, in all about
forty persons, sat in a single row on the carpeted floor.
It was rather amusing to see the assumption of
dignity on the part of Rajah Abdul Delili, and it was
with some difficulty that I restrained myself from
laughing outright when Pandi, suddenly taking in the
Negotiations for Nutmegs. 203
situation, slipped irom his seat on to the carpet^ and
rolled lazily on the floor.
After some moments, the silence was broken by
Pandi saying " Captaine cashie sopie " (literally,
captain give spirits) ; I ordered the interpreter to pass
the two bottles that I had brought for presentation
first to Delili, whom I told to give them to Pandi.
The latter I expected would have opened one of the
bottles and passed it round to his high chief and
people, but instead of this he seized the bottles, slipped
them under the ottoman and said, "tre ma cashie"
(thank you).
The continued rustling at the wall on the eastern
side of the house attracted my attention, and on
looking, I saw peering through the crevices numerous
black eyes which belonged to the women of Pandi's
household.
These people are professedly followers of Islam, but
are addicted to the use of ardent spirits and opium-
smoking to a degree little dreamed of by the Nether-
lands authorities.
The conversation was at last opened by a speech
from Rajah Abdul Delili. I was informed that at the
new moon the tribes would be in a position to load my
204 Explorations in New Guinea,
ship with nutmegs and other staples, and also that the
Rajah Mooders would be dispatched into the interior
to buy from the Alufurus or bushmen their nutmegs.
Meanwhile Abdul Delili and a boat's crew would pro-
ceed up the gulf to the island of Arogoni, and to
Bombarai for the purpose of collecting tortoise-shell
and pearl-shell. Pandi's son was to remain in the
ship as a hostage for our safety.
This looked promising, and after two hours' tedious
desultory conversation, we took our departure for the
ship, suffering the infliction of the same ceremonies
again with which we were received on landing.
We were followed by numerous prows each of which
it appeared contained a Rajah Mooder, who according
to agreement was about to proceed into the interior.
They had come off for the purpose of receiving goods
with which to purchase the nutmegs. This I was assured
by Abdul Delili and Angawearo, who had followed me
to Segar, it was customary for the trader to give, and
I was also told that Abdul Delili would take a list of
all goods supplied, and would become as Kapala Rajah
responsible for every article. On this understanding
I supplied the men liberally with goods, and they left
the ship.
A Crowd of Extortioners, 20$
On the following morning the Eajah and his people
also left the ship for the purpose of proceeding to the
two places already mentioned. They returned on the
following day and the Eajah assured me that the next
morning a number of canoes would be down laden
with pearl and tortoise-shell. He said he had spoken to
all the people and they had all gone vigorously to work,
and that when they came I would be able to see for
myself the wealth in pearl-shell alone that was to be
acquired in McClure's Gulf.
About eleven o'clock the next day ten canoes were
seen hovering between the islands, and the Rajah
informed me that they were waiting for his signal
to approach the ship. The signal was hoisted and the
canoes came alongside.
The mate with four of the crew were stationed
forward with their revolvers in their belts and their
rifles in their hands, while one man with the interpreter
remained aft with me.
As soon as they came alongside I noticed that each
prow was heavily armed, and enquired why they came
alongside of a British ship in that fashion.
They assured me that it was unsafe for them to
travel unarmed, as they were at war with the Alufurus.
2o6 Exploratmis in New Guinea,
The Bajahs of Arogoni and Bombarai were
introduced to me by Delili and were ordered to
seat themselves on top of my cabin. They were given
some tobacco to smoke and their men w ere ordered to
keep in the gangways.
By this time there were ninety-five men on the
schooner's deck, jabbering, chattering and wishing to
force themselves everywhere. They were ordered
to bring out of the prows what pearl-shell they had
brought for trade, when, instead of tons as promised
by Rajah Abdul Delili, the ten canoes had brought
eighteen pairs of inferior shells, the value of which
might have been ten shillings sterling, but for which
they asked such an exorbitant price that I refused to
purchase.
It was not long ere I discovered that they did
not come to trade but to beg. It was therefore decided
for the sake of example not to purchase what they had
brought at any price whatever, and the shell w^as
returned to the canoes and they were ordered to leave
the ship. This they did with evident reluctance.
It now first dawned upon me that there was mischief
brewing and that the anxiety of Rajah Abdul Delili to
visit these difierent tribes in advance was possibly
The Bird of Paradise. 207
to concert some scheme whereby we might be surprised
and the ship captured.
Having with some difficulty cleared the decks and got
the prows from the ship the men were instructed
td redouble their vigilance and to report to me the
slightest thing that came under their notice.
About four o'clock in the afternoon one of the Rajah
Mooders came round the point, followed by four canoes
manned by Alufuru men, which he brought alongside.
These men brought several bags of nutmegs and a
beautiful live bird of paradise on a stick. This lovely
creature seemed perfectly tame and I agreed to
purchase it together with the nutmegs. It was handed
to me and from me to the interpreter, who stood holding
it in his hand. The Eajahs were smoking and in less
than three minutes, whether from fright or the noxious
tobacco smoke, this beautiful creature dropped from its
perch dead.
The Alufurus from the bush, although wild, rough-
looking fellows, impressed me more favourably than the
mixed Mahometan villagers on the coast, and I could
not but regret that our trade relations could not
be carried on except through the latter.
The night had now considerably advanced, my men
2o8 Explorations in New Guinea,
were tired and anxious, so it became necessary for me
to clear the decks and send the natives on shore. They
left the ship with some reluctance, leaving a small canoe
from one of the little villages in Segar Bay, the owner
of which claimed to be a big man and insisted on / '
remaining on board the ship all night to watch over
ftie great man Delili.
Unfortunately for his design the interpreter had
previously called my attention to him when in the act
of stealthily rolling up a knife, something like a High-
lander's dirk, in the folds of his girdle, and he was
consequently given to understand that if he did not
speedily take himself off he would be thrown over-
board. This had the desired effect and our decks were
cleared with the exception of the Rajah and his men.
On the following day the Eajah Abdul Delili ex-
cused himself and said that he had to leave as he was
going with others to Berau to purchase sago and
arrowroot, but that Pandi's son would remain on board
the ship as hostage and that the Rajah Mooders and
Angawearo would be returning daily with plenty of
nutmegs for the ship.
They left me with every demonstration of friend-
liness.
Birds of Paradise, 209
Throughout the day several single canoes came -off
and some goura or great-crowned pigeons were pur-
chased. A cuscus and a philander were also brought
alongside, but for some reason were taken away again
before I had time to bargain for them.
On the following day (Sunday) the Rajah Mooder
(Manare) brought some birds of paradise for sale.
He had previously been introduced to me by Abdul
Delili at Patipi and I was assured that the head Rajah
regarded him as a brother. He also wanted a little
trade, but said that he could not trade to the value of
more than £1. He assured me that he could not be
back to the ship iu less than a fortnight, but that on
my. re turn from the upper waters of the Gulf he would
have many birds of paradise ready for me. The
required trade was. given and he left the ship accom-
panied by our hostage, who said he was anxious to see
his mother.
Our decks were now free for the first time
since entering the Gulf, and with the exception of
Spudeen, his son, and the poor wounded creature
already spoken of, we had only the ship's company on
board.
Towards evening Spudeen brought the interpreter
p
2IO Explorations in New Guinea.
aft and said he thought it would be advisable if I
shifted the ship farther to seaward as he did not think
the " Orang Papua (Papua men) meant good." The
tide answering, the ship was shifted a little farther
down the bay.
( 211 )
CHAPTER XIII.
A GOKSPIBAOY TO SEIZE THE SHIP.
Spudeen laughs to scorn the Notion that the Flotilla of Prows
are leaving to buy Sago — ^The Secret out — A Slave-hunting
Raid — Starting to the Rescue — ^A poor little Captive — I adopt
the Child — An Attack of Fever — The Rajah proposes to seize
the Ship— Amongst the Bentouni Men — The Post Holder of
Gissor's opinion of the natives of New Guinea — A suspicious-
looking Prow — ^A Council of War — A plain Talk with the
Rajah — ^Encountering a; Simoom — Kiliakat — ^In search of
Provisions.
On the following morning there was great activity
at the villages from, which war-prow after war-prow set
sail. From Arogoni we observed many prows stand to
sea and shape their course for the opposite shore.
Spudeen laughed at the thought of all those prows
leaving for the purpose of buying sago or for trade,
and explained that when they went simply to purchase
food they did not go in war-prows but in junkos, large
lumbering craft that would carry good cargoes, and
p 2
212 Explorations in New Guinea,
he assured me that they were on the war path aud
were going to catch men. The villages being now in
some measure deserted, at least half of the fighting
men having left, we had few visitors, but towards
evening Angawearo, the Ceram man, came to the ship
and brought some nutmegs, which he left
From a conversation with Angawearo I was con-
vinced that these men had gone on a slave-hunting
raid.
It should here be mentioned that all the prows
as they left the villages were flying the ensign of the
Netherlands,
I explained to Angawearo that if these men were
slave-hunters they had no right to display the flag
of a Christian nation.
He gave his shoulders a shrug, and said, " Orang
Papua tribai," that is to say " Papua man no good."
He left the ship, and having no more visitors I was
enabled to calmly consider the situation, and decide
in some measure my plans for the future. My
reasoning ran thus : — This slave-hunting raid has been
planned for the purpose of bringing the warriors of the
tribes together so that at a safe distance they may consult
as to the best means of capturing my ship and murdering
A Slave-hunting Raid. 213
myself and crew. Within a month a prince and two
Eajahs from Tidore have been foully murdered for the
sake of their trade. These men claim to be subjects
of Holland, and each prow is flying the flag of the
Netherlands. Their ostensible mission is an unlawful
one. Would I be justified as a free Briton, a citizen of
the good city of Sydney, and, above all, a British
sailor, in interfering, breaking up their expedition,
freeing their captives, and sending them to their
homes ?
Having reasoned thus I concluded that if not acting
within the strict letter of the law, I could safely depend
upon public opinion to carry me through.
It was far into the night ere I retired.
At daylight the Australian ensign was hoisted at
the fore, the British ensign at the main, and the ship
got under weigh. The wind and tide, which had been
against us coming up, were now in our favour, and
at night we anchored in forty-nine fathoms of water,
opposite the smaU village of Tambani, on the north-
western shore, ten miles from where we anchored
coming up, and where we were assured the prows were
to be found.
About nine o'clock on the following morning we
214 Explorations in New Guinea,
proceeded down the Gulf, and after an hour's sail
descried the flotilla of prows coming towards us.
Singling out that of the Rajah we ran alongside and
lay to.
The Rajah came on board and appeared delighted
to meet us. We asked him what he had been doing,
and why so many canoes had left us so abruptly.
He said they had gone to buy sago, but were
attacked, and they had driven the natives back.
This speech made old Spudeen shrug his shoulders.
The interpreter asked him how many men he had
caught.
He said only one small boy.
Lying in the bottom of his canoe was a child of
about two years of age who, as I looked over the side,
fixed his eyes pleadingly on mine. I ordered him to
be lifted on to my vessel's deck, when it was found that
there was a deep gash on the back of his head, caused
by his being thrown into the prow. The little fellow
stood in the gangway with a pleading wistful look.
Ordering the mate to let the sails draw and the
helm to be put up, I let the ship stand to the seaward
with the one prow in tow and the Rajah and some
of his people on board.
«
A poor little Captive. 215
Then pointing to the flags overhead I explained
that that child, being now under the British flag, was
free, and that it would be impossible for me to return
him to them ; that they did wrong to steal men and
children, and that if the authorities of the Nether-
lands knew it was customary for them to make raids
they would send a man-of-war to punish them ; that
I did not want to quarrel with them but wanted to be
friends, so that while I determined to keep the child
and return him to his parents
Here I was interrupted by the Eajah, who told me
that the boy's parents were killed and a great
number slaughtered.
On my saying I would be willing to give some
presents in compensation for taking the baby from
him, he asked for my watch, a cheap one which had
only cost £3. lOs. Ocf., which I gave him. He asked
for some cloth, then for some tobacco and would have
asked for the ship had I not refused to give him any
more.
The child's head was dressed and he was taken
below.
The vessel was then tacked and we steered through
the flotilla to see if they had any more prisoners, but
2i6 Explorations in New Guinea,
the people had evidently been fortunate in having
timely warning, and had escaped. As they had no
more prisoners, I did not allow any more prows
alongside, but shaped a course for Arogoni, whence
Spudeen assured me I could easily proceed to sea
with any wind. I arrived at the anchorage towards
dusk and no prows were allowed alongside for the
night.
In the morning the Bajah, whom I have already
mentioned as coming with the ten prows, arrived from
the shore, but only to beg.
His village is a considerable one and constitutes
three sides of a square on the shores of a high rocky
island, within a mile of the mainland.
Here on the suggestion of Abdul Delili I secured
the services of a pilot and interpreter who could
speak the language of the people at the head of
the Gulf and also Malay.
We then proceeded towards the head waters of
the Gulf and after touching at Bombarai, a small
village containing only thirty inhabitants, we continued
towards Bentouni.
In the vicinity of Bombarai the aspect of the country
changes entirely. The high rugged mountain lands
An Attack of Fever. 217
terminate and their place is taken by a low swampy
coast similar to much of that on the southern shores
of New Guinea. The vast amount of floatage, to
say nothing of the numerous reefs and sand-banks
which were continually cropping up, made navigation,
even in the day-time, somewhat hazardous and
necessitated our keeping a vigilant look-out. The
wind as usual was dead against us, and under these
circumstances our progress of necessity was slow.
On the second day we arrived at the middle of the
Gulf, where the channel narrowed down to some ten
miles in width, and we there anchored for the night.
On the following day we passed the village of
Bentouni, and steered for an anchorage under the lee of
a small island, where the pilot assured us that we should
be able to ride snugly in smooth water. To reach this
we had to wind our way through many reefs and sand-
banks, but at last we anchored in four fathoms within
two hundred yards of the shore on each side. I
noticed that numerous channels ran in to what is
supposed to be the mainland.
My health, which for some time had been bad, now
compelled me to lie up with a severe attack of fever.
I had a small tent rigged on top of my house on deck.
2i8 Explorations in New Guinea,
where I lay for some days in an almost helpless condi-
tion until the fever turned.
While lying here I overheard a conversation
between Abdul Delili and the pilot, the half at least of
which I understood, its tenor being that the time had
now come to attack and capture my ship.
The Bajah, who believed me to be in the cabin,
started and turned positively pale with alarm, when I
sprang up and called for the interpreter, to whom,
without waiting to be questioned, he said, " I have just
been saying to the pilot that if the captain was to die,
what could I say, people would blame me for killing
him."
The interpreter was told to tell him that he lied,
and that the captain perfectly understood what he had
been saying to the pilot.
The boat was ordered to be cleared and the Kapala
or head Bajah of all the Gulf tribes, his followers and
the pilot, were put into her as prisoners, and a guard
set over them.
The excitement and the danger of our situation did
much towards my recovery and, although our position
was not an enviable one, I determined to continue to
the very head of McClure's Gulf.
Gleevtnk Bay. 219
The night was anxiously spent, the men keeping
sea watches under arms, and in the morning we
got under weigh. The pilot was brought aft to stand
by my side and we sailed round the island, entering
the Gulf by the eastern channel.
This island is of no great extent, but is valuable in-
asmuch as it is covered with the Misoi tree, from the
bark of which, as already stated, valuable oils are
extracted. The whole of this portion of the coast is
intersected by channels which I think arc connected,
and instead of the mainland there is a group of islands.
In three days we arrived at the head of the Gulf and
anchored opposite what afterwards proved to be an
island. Here two channels, one to the north and the
other to the south, debouch into the inlet. The latter
we entered and followed until we reached a bend, at a
distance of not more than three miles from Gleevink
Bay, where we anchored.
Here the channel is between two and three miles in
width and the depth of water seven fathoms. My
charts showed the opposite shore to be entirely unsur-
veyed and faced by many islands ; the inhabitants of
which I had reason to believe were hostile.
These considerations, together with the fact that I
220 Explorations in New Guinea,
had already seven prisoners on board the ship, my own
health broken and my crew considerably weakened by
constant exposure and coarse inferior food, and, more-
over, as we had met no natives and had not succeeded
in trading for one article for nearly two weeks,
decided me to return, although well convinced that by
continuing another two or three miles I should enter
the broad waters of Gleevink Bay.
We accordingly returned, and sailing around the
inland already mentioned re-entered the Gulf by the
northern channel.
This channel stretches away to the north-west
towards a small rugged range of mountains, and most
probably again enters the Gulf at one of the openings
shown on the map after trending to the west and
south.
We anchored off the northern shore, the low islands
of which are somewhat flat. At a distance of some
thirty miles to the northward rise range after range of
mountains, some of them not less than 14,000 feet
above the level of the sea.
We continued cautiously down the Gulf and
anchored opposite Bentouni, where we hoisted the
Rajah's flag to bring the natives alongside. One
Ill ' • ■■
Tlte Bentouni Men, 221
canoe came off heavily armed. They brought some
nutmegs and also a small quantity of the Misoi bark,
which we purchased.
The Kajah was brought aft but was not allowed
to converse in Papuan^ all conversation having to
be carried on in Malay so that the interpreters might
understand him. He was anxious to know what
was our intention with regard to himself and his
people. The Bentouni men were told that we were
going to proceed slowly up the coast ; they were also
informed that this Rajah had told us when we first came
as friends to his village that there were 10,000 men in
the Gulf, and that he had ended by assuring us that
there were 70,000,000. They were told that he had
proved himself not only a liar but also a murderous
villain, who, for the kindness shown and confidence
reposed in him had planned how he was going to take
advantage of my illness to murder us and seize our
ship.
In the presence of these men he was asked if he
believed in Mahomet
He said " Yes, Master."
He was then asked if he believed in God.
He said " Tes, Captaine."
222 Explorations in New Guinea.
Then I said " Pray to God. He may save you —
Mahomet cannot — ^for he was as great an impostor as
you are."
Turning to the Bentouni men, I told them to send
word up the coast that the Rajah and his men
were prisoners, that we were but eight men in all, five
only of whom were white, and that if these 70,000,000
warriors had the heart of men, they would meet
us on the passage down and rescue their head Rajah ;
and that it was my intention to proceed with him
to the Dutch Commandant at Gissor, who would send
him and his people to Temate to be punished by the
proper authorities.
The Bajah asked permission to write letters, which
I granted, and the men remained until he had completed
his correspondence. This he assured me was only an
urgent request that Angawearo and the Rajah Mooders
to whom I had supplied trade would either have
the goods ready to return, or the nutmegs which
they had obtained in exchange, by my arrival at Segar.
The prow left the ship, the prisoners were placed
in the boat, and although late in the afternoon we
again got under weigh and anchored about five miles
from Tambani in fifty fathoms of water.
The Post Holder of Gissor, 223
By this time old Spudeen had become very fidgety
and declared that we should never get out of the Gulf,
since they would swarm round us, and our throats
would be cut.
In the morning we stood over, and by evening made
the anchorage opposite the village of Arogoni.
The next day several of the leading men with their
Rajah came off from the shore to visit our prisoners,
but, as they were only permitted to converse in Malay,
they did not remain long.
Fast prows were continuously coming and going, so
that it was thought well without further delay to
proceed to Gissor, distant one hundred and thirty-five
miles. In the afternoon the ship was got under weigh,
and we stood across the Gulf. Passing north of the
Pisang (banana) Islands, we in due course made the
coast of Ceram, and on the evening of the third day
rode snugly at anchor within a hundred yards of the
shore of the little village of Gissor.
The Post Holder, Trimerman, came on board and
the matter was laid before him.
He seemed deeply impressed with the manner in
which I had acted, and in broken English said,
"Englishman the devil. These New Guinea men are
224 Explorations in New Guinea,
no good, Captain, they shake one hand and hold the
other in the breast with the knife ready to plunge into
you. Why did you not shoot them? I can do
nothing, I have no power. Here I represent Amboyna
and have nothing to do with the Residency of Ternate,
where you will have to take them."
He was told of the slave-hunting expedition and
shown the little fellow that I had on board and whom
he advised me to keep, as he had no power to receive
him.
As by this time the lad had ingratiated himself into
the good graces of all, I readily consented to adopt and
bring him up as my own, and the little fellow, who is
with me in England, has in a shoit eighteen months
lost all traces of his original savagery, is sharp and
intelligent, and, if I am spared to train and educate
him properly, will, I trust and believe, grow up to prove
how fallacious is the belief that the wild savage of New
Guinea is incapable of culture, or so deficient in
intelligence that it is impossible to fit him to take
his place and fight his battles in the front ranks of
man.
It is my intention so to train this child that when he
has come to years of discretion I may be able to turn
The Post Holder of Gissor. 225
him over to the London Missionary Society ; and it is
my fervent hope that I may yet live to see him doing
good work in reclaiming his less fortunate brethren in
the wilds of New Guinea.
From the Commandant I received an invitation to
dine, and the Rajahs of Kilwaro and Gissor were
invited to the house to meet me, so that we might talk
over the serious position in which I was placed.
Old Spudeen hid already gone on shore but left his
son still on board the ship. The wounded man, to
whom I had also given protection, came aft and
tendered his thanks and with some friends went on
shore. Old Spudeen, who was evidently well known,
returned with a host of friends to the ship. After I
had landed he assured my people that I was a very
good man and had given him a passage, but he thought
that having saved his life I might have given him a
good present
When I arrived at the house of the Post Holder that
worthy told me that his wife had never seen an English-
man and she had often expressed her anxiety to see
one. I upbraided him for not telling me that he had
a wife, so that I might have taken some pains with my
toilet, and proposed that I should return to the ship, as
Q
226 Explorations in New Guinea,
I was certainly not in a costume fit to appear in the
presence of ladies^ — being clothed in strong boots,
white ducks, red shirt, broad brimmed straw hat and
broad leather belt with cutlass and revolver. My hair
was uncombed and beard scraggy. However, as the
gentleman was evidently dying with anxiety to present
me to his Beini (wife), he would not hear of my
returning so I was perforce compelled to accompany
him.
His house was a large, comfortable, airy, well-built
edifice and fairly well furnished.
The wife, a Ceram woman, was a pleasing little body
and when I saluted her on the cheek and told her that
was English fashion she said " oraug bai " (the man is
good).
The dinner consisted of fish cooked in a variety of
ways, rice and tea.
The meal over, the Rajahs, who had been sent for,
arrived accompanied by a very old man, the father of
Prince Abdul already mentioned. The Prince, it will
be remembered, together with two Rajahs from Tidore
had been murdered in New Guinea fourteen days
before our arrival.
The old man was evidently grief-stricken and I was
The Rajah of Kilawaro, 22/
assured that for a long time his lamentations were
heart-rending. He pleaded with me to shoot every
man of them in revenge for the murder of his son.
Having assured the old man that it was no part of the
duty of a Briton to kill men except such as had been
condemned by the laws and were executed under the
authority of those laws, we proceeded to discuss my
peculiar position in regard to our prisoners.
The Commandant, as in duty bound, strongly advised
me to endeavour to take them to Temate or at least to
the Sultan of Tidore, but the consensus of opinion was
strongly in favour of taking the men away and
shooting them.
To this of course I could not agree, and made up
my mind if at all possible that I would endeavour to
take them and hand them over to the proper authorities
at Tidore.
The Rajah of Kilawaro gave me a cordial invitation
to spend a day with him and shoot deer, but I
regret, the wretched state of my health prevented my
accepting.
Here we purchased many deer horns and caused
great excitement and amusement and considerably
benefited the villagers by killing thousands of fishes
q2
228 Explorations in New Guinea.
with dynamite. The dead fiah were collected and
taken on shore, and to the credit of these islanders be
it said, that having collected the fish they each brought
one to the ship and took another to the house of the
Commandant, so that we were well stocked for some
time with fish.
After a stay of one week we took our departure from
Gissor and shaped a course so as to pass between
the islands of Salawattey and Mysol ; but the wind,
which had been fair on leaving Gissor, headed us and, —
as the squalls were sweeping the seas with hurricane
force and a strong current was running against us, —
I found it impossible to get to the westward. I
therefore ran back into McClure's Gulf and again
anchored opposite the village at Berau.
Here we encountered a strong westerly gale, which
compelled me to run for shelter under the lee of
Arofi^oni,
It may be mentioned that by this time Abdul Delili
had made a full confession and acknowledged that
it was their intention, had we not been so watchful,
to have seized the ship. He also assured us that we
were in no danger now as all the men were frightened.
We anchored well towards the eastern end, and
A suspicious-looking Prow. 229
prows were dispatched ordering all those who had
trade to come down to the ship.
One man, the Bajah Mooder Lakate, came down on
the following day bringing such nutmegs as he
had secured and the portions of the trade that he
had not got rid of, except a few trifling articles
which he said he had left with the Alufuru people.
The Rajah Mooder Manare, on hearing of our
arrival, got his war-canoe ready and dodged backwards
and forwards among the islands the whole day within
gun-shot of the ship. This was well known to Abdul
Delili, who, although professing regret and sincere
penitence for what had happened, took care not to point
out the prow to me. It was pointed out by Lakate,
who was considerably more honest than his neighbours.
As the movements of this prow were suspicious, the
occupants were carefully watched and enquiries made
as to what was their object. The answer was that they
were looking for a good place to fish.
The old pilot had come alongside ; I dispatched
him to order Manare to come to the ship, but instead of
doing so, he endeavoured to get in shore of the pilot's
prow so as to escape out of gun-shot range. This
decided me to act promptly.
230 Explorations in New Guinea,
Taking a long range rifle I tired into the canoe.
They then began paddling rapidly and although
I fired many shots I could not round them to.
Darkness was now fast closing in, war canoes
were pouring into Arogoni and I had no means
of sending Lakate and a friend, who had come off with
him, in the pilot's prow back on shore.
There were now nine Papuans on board the ship,
seven prisoners and two armed men. My own party
numbered ten all told, two of whom were children and
three Malays in whom no dependence could be placed.
I therefore decided to disarm the two men and get the
ship under weigh and stand out to sea. This was
quickly done, I^kate being assured that in disarming
him we were only taking a necessary precaution.
The night came on dark and gusty, but fortunately
we were enabled to thread our way out into the deep
water without mishap, and then shortening sail we
continued under easy canvas across the Gulf until we
got anchorage in fifteen fathoms of water.
I positively did not know what to do with the nine
Papuans, for as I had only one boat I could not land
them. To have done so would Lave been to weaken
my own crew, and to trust them with my own boat
A Council of War. 2^1
*
would have meant simply to lose it, because it would
not have been returned.
My own men were called aft and their opinion
asked, but as each had an idea of his own — some were
for flogging, some were for killing, and others for
throwing them overboard- and letting them find their
way on shore as they best could — they were dismissed.
The eflects of the fever which had told severely
upon me and the intense anxiety of mind and
excitement led me to the conclusion that I was not in
a fit state to come to a fair, a calm, and an unbiassed
decision, and that whatever I might do in the way of
punishment might in calmer moments be regretted.
This reflection finally decided me.
The only practicable course appeared to be to
return these men in safety to their homes.
It was far past midnight when I arrived at this
decision. The Bajah was brought into the cabin, and
the interpreter roused up — ^although by this time I could
converse with tolerable fluency myself. I explained to
the Rajah that as they were under the authority of the
Netherlands, and as the Netherlands and the Britons
were good friends, I conceived it my duty to return
them to their homes — not but that they richly
232 Explorations in New Guinea.
deserved punishment, and not because I felt any
sympathy for them — but simply for the respect I had
for the flag of a friendly nation ; and he was warned
in future in all his dealings with Englishmen, even
were they few, never to try, or to contemplate trying,
to capture an English ship, for, should he succeed, we
had tens of thousands of men who would come and
avenge the death of their countrymen.
I then pointed out how different our relations would
have been had he acted fairly and honestly to me.
That, having secured a fair return for my outlay, I
would have been coming to his country year after year,
and many others would have followed me, so that,
instead of living the wretched miserable lives that they
were now living, large trade relations would have been
opened out, the valuable timber in their mountains
would have been cut down, while the spice trade alone
would have been the means of making him rich beyond
anything that he had the intelligence to understand.
I then carefully presented to him the reverse side of
the picture, telling him that, even had he succeeded in
his plan of seizing the ship, the news would sooner or
later have got abroad ; and that, as I had been careful
to write so that my people knew where we were, a man-
A plain Talk with the Rajah, 233
of- war would have come, and he and all concerned
would have been hanged, their villages would have
been destroyed and the country left to the Alufurus.
He either saw or pretended to see the force of all
that I said, and, with tears streaming down his cheeks,
swore by God and Mahomet that he would never
think of trying to do the like again.
I then dismissed him to the boat, to tell the others
that as soon as I got down to Roeambati I would signal
for a canoe to take them off, and let them go to their
homes.
Having settled this matter I felt much lighter of
heart, and turning into my bed slept soundly till
morning, when getting under weigh we stood over
towards the island on the southern shore.
The wind was light and baflSing, and heavy dark
clouds were rising to the westward and came working
down upon us. Between three and four o^clock in the
afternoon the clouds gathered near the ship and sucked
up from the bosom of the Gulf no less than six
tremendous water-spouts, which travelled rapidly
towards us.
One huge simoom of the deep came whirling along
directly towards the vessel. The men were called to
234 Explorations in New Guinea.
their arms, the big guns were loaded and covered
ready to fire when the huge column of water was within
two hundred yards. The rifles were kept continuously
firing, but from excitement or some other cause I could
not get the men to fire well together, and one of the
most tremendous water-spouts that ever I had seen was
within five hundred yards of the vessel ere the rifles
succeeded in breaking it.
I have repeatedly described water-spouts in other
parts of the ocean as having nothing grand or imposing
about them. This I can say no longer, for as the
monster rushed down towards the ship like an avalanche,
it seemed to be dashing spray for at least thirty or
forty feet above its base, and can only be compared to
some huge steam engine, rushing without control with
the valves open, and shooting out a tremendous volume
of steam round a great spiral column of smoke.
While standing port-fire in hand at the swivel-gun, I
was enabled to determine that the great spiral column
of water was revolving from left to right.
No sooner had we succeeded in breaking it than
a sharp breeze sprang up and dispersed the five
remaining water-spouts and carried us rapidly along
the coast, which I had hugged pretty closely with the
Encountering a Simoon. 235
intention of hailing a canoe from the village of
Roeambati.
When opposite the islets and reefs, already described
as enclosing Patipi Bay, the wind died out as suddenly
as it had sprung up, and it became imperative for us
to anchor in twenty-six fathoms of water within fifty
yards of the reefs edge.
A large prow pushed oflF from the shore, but as
darkness was now setting in the natives were told to
return and to come off at daylight.
As the night advanced signal fires were lit on the
points, and considerable commotion was observable at
Roeambati, Patipi, and Salikiti.
A light breeze springing up, at ten o'clock I decided
to get under weigh, and if possible to obtain a better
offing. Sail was made so as to forge the ship ahead to
her anchor, but the great length of chain told upon
the men, who were tired and weary with continuous
watching, and the work was slow and laborious ; so
that before the anchor was up, the ship had drifted
into dangerously close proximity to the reef.
By the aid of long sweeps, however, we managed to
keep her from striking, and the men were instructed
that, in the event of the ship taking the reef, nothing
236 Explorations in New Guinea,
remained for us but to be prepared to cut out
Angawearo's prow, first silencing those on board. But
that great Power whom I have ever found to watch over
man in his extremity, did not leave us to that terrible
alternative.
The current as we swept down the coast seemed also
to help us to seaward, and inch by inch we gradually
drew away from our dangerous position. When a
sufficient distance in the offing, the ship was hove to
and allowed to drift with the tide till the morning, when
a small canoe came off.
Having returned the two natives their arms, the
whole party came aft and thanking me got into the
canoe and paddled away to their homes.
Circumstances now compelled me to run in and
again anchor at the place in which we brought up on
the night of our arrival at McClure's Gulf, but on the
following morning we were enabled to get under weigh
with a good breeze and to shape a course for the
island of Gorong, where we arrived without mishap.
This island, as also the island of Kiliwaru, has been
so well described by Mr. Wallace in his * Malay
Archipelago ' that it would be superfluous for me to
tire my readers with any description.
KiliakaU 237
• On arriving ofF the village of Kiliakat the wind died
away and the ship lay becalmed, surrounded by reefs,
with no anchorage.
A large prow containing no less than forty rowers
put off from the shore and another speedily followed.
As they drew near the ship they struck up a very
pleasing boat-song and beat their drums and gongs.
Motioning for them to come on board they pulled
alongside, and then I saw that the rowers were all
boys or youths, while several venerable, kindly-
visaged men were seated on tlie platform. The first to
come on board was a decently dressed respecfable man
who carried a stick in his hand. As soon as he crossed
the gangway he put his hand into his pocket and
taking out a flat-headed, oct-agon-shaped silver knob,
on which were engraved the arms of the Dutch, he
placed it on top of the stick ; then, holding it towards
me, informed me that he was the Orang Kay or head
man of the village and offered to tow us into a secure
anchorage.
The prows were got ahead and towed us into
soundings, but for the night we were compelled to
anchor in thirty fathoms.
The following morning three well-manned prows
238 Explorations in New Guinea.
came off and soon towed us inside the reefs, where
we anchored in nineteen fathoms secured from almost
any wind.
We landed at the village and were taken round
by the Orang Kay and others to see many of the
houses. They were a simple primitive people
dwelling in peace and harmony one with the other,
having no quarrels nor wars amongst themselves.
The boys were sent to fill our water casks with fresh
water, which came running down the hill-side in a
clear gurgling stream, and the only remuneration
asked was a small box of wax matches to each boy.
The natives are adepts at making fancy grass boxes
which they send to Gissor and sell to the Bugis
and Chinese traders. They have much valuable
timber and I think precious stones are found on the
island. In former years these people used to trade
with the people of New Guinea, but the treachery
of the Papuan was such that not a year passed but
some of their prows were captured and their crews
murdered, more especially about Shemai; so that
for a people living in primitive simplicity the New
Guinea trade has been considered too dangerous and
is now entirely abandoned.
hi Search of Provisions. 239
When I explained to them that I was going to
return to Shemai, Kapow, Karas and other parts
of the coast, and asked for intei*preters to accompany
me, they looked positively terror-stricken and declared
that we should never get away from New Guinea
alive.
Our provisions were by this time running short,
and for several weeks we had tasted nothing in the
shape of meat. Our bread w^as so weevily that it
was positively running away from us, and would fall
to pieces at the touch. Our flour supply was also
well nigh exhausted and we had no sugar. I there-
fore endeavoured to purchase what vegetables I could
from these natives ; but they had little else save fish
and sago to sell. The latter, though very coarse, was
considerably better than that which we had purchased
in abundance in New Guinea. I therefore bought
several mats of sago, also native prepared sago cakes,
a few tara and yams, and trusted to Providence to
be able to pick up more provisions on the New Guinea
coast.
Having now a full supply of water and having
rested in peace and safety for a week, we made a few
small presents and again got under weigh to return to
240 Explorations in New Guinea.
New Guinea. The wind was blowing fair off the island
when we started, but we had barely cleared the reefs
when it came rushing down with hurricane force, and
throughout the night it blew a terrific gale, which
moderated somewhat towards daylight. Keeping the
ship under press of canvas, towards midday we again
made the mainland of New Guinea, and, rounding
into a deep bay, anchored in thirty fathoms of water.
Although the shores of the bay were carefully
scanned we could see no sign of inhabitants, and only
one fire, and that was at a considerable distance up
the mountains.
We shifted our anchorage and stood over towards
the island of Shemai, which we found to consist of one
main island and an innumerable group of smaller
islands. Still, as we discovered no natives, we decided
to run for Karas, and rounded the westernmost point
of that island about four in the afternoon.
Seeing a couple of houses on the beach we stood
close in shore with colours flying and laid the ship to
the wind until a small canoe came off with a couple of
natives, one of whom piloted us round to an anchorage.
By the time we had all secured darkness had set in,
and having paid the pilot, who promised to return in
In Search of Provisions, 241
the morning with some fish and tara, we set anchor
watches and retired for the night.
In the morning, true to promise, the pilot
brought off fish. This time he was accompanied by a
Ceram man (Moy by name), who said that he had
been trading on the mainland, and had been robbed,
but had escaped to Karas, where they had protected
him. He offered to work his passage to the island of
Adi, where he had a brother living under the pro-
tection of the Kajah.
Throughout the day several prows came bringing
nutmegs, all of which we purchased, but the anchorage
being very unsafe I decided to run for the island of
Tarak, where Moy assured me I should find safe
anchorage.
Here we arrived in the evening, and were boarded
by an intelligent little man, who produced a certificate
granted by a Dutch captain to his father, and who
asked to be allowed to pilot us to Shemai, where
he thought he could purchase Misoi bark and nutmegs.
To this I agreed, and we sent away a boat ahead to
inform all those who had nutmegs to sell, that we
would again anchor in the bay, already mentioned,
where I had previously seen no people.
""^PBBH«H^HH^BBHHiMPHMHHHBHMHVHBHMHtai«BHBi«nUJi
242 Explorations in New Guinea.
CHAPTER XIV.
TROUBLESOME VISITORS.
The Island of Tarak — ^The Orang Bisar — ^Mineral Wealth" of
Sheraai — A self-assertive old Man — He gives me a Piece of
his Mind — ^I return the Compliment — A Visit to the House of
a great Man — The Kajah of Ati Ati — ^A Chinese Joss — ^I give
the Pilot a Certificate — llie Bugis Captain and Moy — ^I
succeed in warding off Vengeance — A Present of Firearms.
The island of Tarak is one of two which with Karas
enclose a bay thirty-five miles in extent, and in which
the reefs are almost innumerable. These reefs are
positively teeming with trepang or Beche-de-mer, a
kind of sea slug much used in China, the average price
of which when cured runs from £140 down to £60
per ton. On either side of the bay the land is
high and mountainous, but in the bight it is only
moderately elevated forest country inhabited by a
small bush tribe, numbering, I was assured, less than
forty souls, who wander about from place to place in a
The Orang Bisar. 243
state of natural savagery much after the manner of the
natives of Strachan Island. Had I been on a fishing
cruise, and carrying apparatus, there is no doubt that
I should have filled my vessel with a valuable cargo in
a couple of months.
The news arriving that the pilot's people had made
enquiry as to the quantity of nutmegs likely to be
brought to the ship, and also the quantity of Misoi
they had to sell, I decided on the following day to
return to Shemai, and with the morning breeze suc-
ceeded in again anchoring in the bay, this time in good
shelter.
Immediately we anchored, a number of canoes were
seen paddling towards us from several points of the
compass, and we were soon busily engaged in bartering
for nutmegs, and a brisk trade was carried forward,
both on that and the following day.
In the evening a large prow came out from Shemai,
and brought a man who informed us that he was the
Orang Bisar or great man of the place. He was a
man of distinctly marked features, and had a deter-
mined treacherous look and was evidently held in some
fear by my little pilot. To myself he made great protesta-
tions of friendliness, and expressed himself exceedingly
R 2
244 Explorations in New Guinea,
— — - - 1 - "* --
anxious that I should shift my anchorage and go over
and anchor opposite his rooma or house. He assured
me that he had a very large quantity of the Misoi
bark for disposal, as also nutmegs, and offered to take
a man with him who could see for himself.
One of the Malayans volunteered to accompany
him and, on the Orang Bisar promising to bring him
back in safety the next afternoon, I ordered the man
to go, and to carefully note the quantity they had for
sale, as also the number of people about, and to
gather any other information that might be of service.
I gave him a rifle and revolver and he left the ship.
Our anchorage was within fifty yards of the shore,
opposite a clear crystal stream which trickled down
the mountain's side.
In the morning, accompanied by two men, I landed
and, after a bath, we proceeded up the mountains,
dragging ourselves up by the creepers along the
rugged banks of this stream, which had cut a channel
through a species of decomposed quartz.
The vegetation was very dense, and we discovered
many trees not met with before by us in New Guinea,
notably one, a hard red timber, somewhat similar to
the jarah wood of Western Australia. Here we also
A self-assertive old Man. 245
discovered a species of the India-rubber tree, but of
imperfect growth. We came across many deep
ravines composed of quartz-rock with out-croppings of
slate, and those of my crew who had spent some years
among the gold-fields of Australia declared the
country likely to contain gold. My want of geological
knowledge precludes me from ofiering an opinion on
this subject, but having seen something of the mineral-
bearing countries of Australia, I am disposed to think
that before very long gold and other minerals will be
found in considerable quantities amongst these ranges.
We cut some specimens of the timber and chipped off
pieces of the quartz, and then, as some prows were
making for the ship, we returned on board, to await
their arrival.
The first prow to come alongside contained three
men with their wives, besides some with two or three
slaves to paddle the prow. A self-assertive old man
who came aboard told me he had brought his wife
and also his brother and his wife, and his son with his
wife, and he would bring them aboard to look at the
ship, provided I would make them a good present. He
said they came from the island of Shemai, and he was
the big man there. They had plenty of nutmegs, and
246 Explorations in New Guinea,
if I paid well, they would bring plenty in a few days,
but they would like to see what I had got to give them
in exchange.
The brother and son then came on board, and after
some talk, the ladies were helped out of the canoe.
They were well dressed, wearing heavy gold bands
around their ankles, heavy bracelets of gold and silver
on their arms, and huge golden earrings. Their
features were not unpleasing, but it was evident that
they were not of the pure Papuan type. The old lady,
the wife of the man who first boarded the ship, evi-
dently had a considerable mixture of the Chinese even
to the almond eyes, while the others presented at
least a three-fourths mixture of Malay* Their hair was
carefully parted in the centre, and their colour was
very much lighter than that of the Papuan.
They were taken into the cabin and presented with
looking-glasses, but the old man was not satisfied and
insisted that they should be each presented with a
dress piece for their trouble in coming to see me.
When informed I had no dress pieces to give, and that
while I had presented them with looking-glasses so
that they could admire themselves he had made no
present to me, he very coolly told me that I was in
He gives me a Piece of his Mind, 247
their country, and that it was my place to make
them presents and not theirs to make presents to me,
but if I would not give them any more perhaps I
might show them what I had, so that they would
know what goods I had to give in exchange for such
commodities as they had to barter.
As article after article was laid before them and
the price named he repeated the one word " Machal "
(too dear) and disparaged the quality of every
article that I produced, until my patience became ex-
hausted, and I refused to show them any more and
ordered the goods to be put away. He next asked for
" sopie " (spirits). This being refused he demanded
" sandown " (opium). When informed that we carried
no opium, he coolly told me I was no good. The
women also pleaded hard that I should give them
more presents after their coming to see me, when, find-
ing me obdurate, they returned to the prow in a huff.
I sent the men on deck, where again the old man gave
me a considerable piece of his mind. He told me I
was mean and that I ought to have been pleased to
give them good presents for coming to see me and, if
I did not give good presents, it was of no use coming
there, that I did not know their fashion, which was that
248 Explorations in New Guinea.
when people came to their country they were to make
good presents.
To this I answered that his country fashion and
mine were different, that when people came to our
country it was we that made them the presents, and
that when he was ready to bring his presents to me I
would be pleased to accept them.
To this he replied, "trebai" (no good).
Being now thoroughly annoyed, I ordered him
to clear out of the ship. With some reluctance he
went into his prow, and after some talk passed out of
the house or cabin three large net bags of nutmegs
which were brought on deck, and for which he asked
a price of about five times their value. I was so
disgusted with the self-assertive insolence of the
old fellow that I made offer of about half the price
that under ordinary circumstances I would have been
willing to give, which caused the old man to hold up
his hands in apparent amazement, and he wanted to
discuss the matter. I ordered them to go to the
canoe and to take their trade with them, as I would
not buy it from him at all. This had the desired
efiect, and . they let me have the nutmegs at my own
price, conditionally on my giving them a little tobacco
I UVIJUiJI I n I ^"^P^^'^VM^WPPWi
/ return the Compliment. 249
as a present. This I did, and they paddled away from
the ship grumbling.
In the afternoon the Orang Bisar returned with my
man, who reported that they had two houses full of the
Misoi bark, that they had very few nutmegs, that there
were not many men, and that everywhere they
had treated him kindly, I therefore decided on
the following morning to go over and anchor as
requested inside of the island of Shemai.
The Orang Bisar and his people camped on the
beach all night while my own watches under arms kept
a sharp look-out In the morning the little pilot, who
had been absent, returned bringing with him about
four hundredweight of nutmegs, which he had purchased.
We then got under weigh and stood over to Shemai.
On the Dutch charts this is marked as one island with
a clear channel between it and the mainland. This
is altogether inaccurate as from the end of the
main island the bay is studded with innumerable little
islets, the passages between which are mostly blocked
by coral reefe, except in one place, where there is
a narrow intricate channel. Through this it w^as
proposed to take us ; our little pilot, however, urged us
not to risk it, but to anchor on the seaward side
250 Explorations in New Guinea,
of the group. Subsequent events proved that this man
was faithful, and it was fortunate that I acted on his
advice.
Having anchored in a small natural lagoon with
reefs, which dry on either side at low water, the
big man went on shore for the purpose of loading up
the Misoi and nutmegs to bring to the ship, and
we remained all day in idleness. Only one or
two fishing canoes came alongside and they would not
sell their fish.
On the following afternoon as there was no sign
of the great man returning, I became anxious, and,
getting the boat out, took two of my Malays with
the Ceram man (Moy), and rowed into the house
for the purpose of finding out the cause of the delay.
The pilot was left at the ship so that, in the event of
anything happening to myself, he could take them to a
place of safety.
Our way lay through a group of beautiful little
islets, some of them not a hundred yards in circum-
ference and none larger than half a mile, mere rocks
thrown up by some convulsion of nature, but each,
owing to the humidity of the climate, densely
covered with vegetation — pretty little emerald gems
A Visit to a great Man. 251
sparkling on the bosom of the ocean. An hour and a
half s pull brought us to the house of the great man,
who received us at the platform or staging with much
ostentatious ceremony.
Leaving one man in the boat with instructions never
to let his rifle out of his hand, accompanied by
my other man ^nd Moy I entered the house, which
positively bristled with long steel-headed spears.
Having seated myself, I enquired of the great man why
he had not brought the Misoi oflF according to promise,
when he coolly informed me that the Misoi did not
belong to him, but to another man who was away a four
days' journey, and that he had sent to him to come back.
I accused him of having deceived me, and said
that I had been told that it was their fashion about
Shemai to lead the unsuspecting trader into a snare
and then murder him for the sake of plundering his
vessels ; that at Kiliakat in Gorong, the Orang Kay
had informed me that they had murdered all his people,
who had come amongst them to trade, as also the
men from Ki and Ceram ; that owing to the murder
of the Prince and two Eajahs of Tidore a Dutch war-
ship was coming down to punish them; but that
we belonged to a country the lives of whose people
252 Explorations in New Guinea,
were sacred and that if the meanest man in my ship
suffered the slightest injury at their hands my country-
men, who were as numerous as the sand on the sea
shore and correspondingly powerful, would come and
destroy every man of them, not stopping while one
of them lived. Rising to my feet, I pointed to the
two Malays and said, "You see that I myself have
come amongst you alone because I have nothing
to fear, you might kill me without much trouble now,
but that would be nothing, because I know that for
every hair in my head and every hair in my beard
my country would send a man to exterminate you
from the face of the earth."
He said it was true that they had killed and
plundered all the people I had enumerated, but not
for six years, as none of them had come to their
place, and I was the first visitor they had had for
that time; but now they would not kill white man,
for they were too frightened.
While this conversation was going on, an old lady,
the mother, brought a small basket and a few bananas,
tara, and yams, and calling for one of her maidens
she instructed her to bring some water-melons and
pumpkins, all of which she laid at my feet and told me
The Rajah of Ati AH. 253
they were a present I shook the old lady by the hand
and made her some small presents in return and then
the Orang Bisar having promised that if he heard no
word by the following day, he would take upon himself
to bring the Misoi to the ship, we got in the boat
and returned on board.
On the way back the Oeram man, Moy, said he
thought when we were going that they would have
killed us, that we were the first that he had heard
of who had gone down there and come back alive.
When asked if they would have killed him also, he
said " No, no good to kill him, he had got nothing."
I then asked him why he did not join the pilot in trying
to dissuade me from venturing among them, the only
answer to which was a shrug of the shoulders, which
decided me to watch Mr. Moy.
When we arrived on board, the little pilot seemed
overjoyed to see us, and expressed a desire that I
should move the ship a little farther to seaward, which
was accordingly done.
On the following afternoon two large prows came
alongside laden with Misoi and another with the
Orang Bisar on board, also two other prows in which
were women with nutmegs. The whole of these
254 Explorations in New Guinea,
products were purchased after a considerable amount
of haggling, and the boats left the ship.
Throughout the day also several scouting prows
came down from Kapow and Egga, and through the
pilot I gathered that they were sent by the Rajah of
Ati Ati, who had been the principal in the murder of
the Prince of Tidore and his followers. This ruler
had heard of my dealings with the tribes in the Gulf,
and was anxious to discover what force I had on board
and what my intentions were towards himself.
When I was told this I called the men to me, and
told them to tell the Rajah from me that the Prince
of Tidore had determined to send down a force of five
hundred prows to punish them for murdering his
people (this fact I had learnt from the Commandant
at Gissor), and that a Dutch man-of-war would also
be dispatched by the Governor-General to punish
them, and that the Rajah of Ati Ati and the two
Rajah Mooders had a very short time to live, because,
if not killed by the Sultan's prows, they would be
hanged to the yard-arm of a Dutch man-of-wan
They then asked me if I would be prepared to help
the Rajah of Ati Ati, to which I sent reply that I had
made ofier to the Commandant at Gissor to take their '
The Rajah of Ati Ati. 255
Rajah aad the two Rajah Mooders over as prisoners
to him, providing he would receive them, and that if
the Sultan of Tidore's prows came, my duty was
clearly to help them; and further, that now English
ships had come amongst them, it would not be well
for them if they murdered any more men.
The men left the ship sullenly, and having paddled
to the nearest shore, stopped and held a long con-
sultation. Then embarking in their prows, they
proceeded to their homes by different routes.
The pilot now strongly urged me to remain there
no longer ; but the breeze, which had been blowing oflF
shore, died away as soon as the anchor was atrip,
compelling me to again anchor for the night, and it
was noon on the morrow ere we got a breeze to carry
us back to the island of Tarak, where we remained
for a couple of days.
I should have mentioned that while here previously
in walking along the beach I came upon an old house
that had been destroyed by fire, some of the old
timber of which I had cut up and sent on board for
firewood. While turning over the rubbish I came
upon three idols, two of them the common wooden
idols, facsimiles, of those shown by Mr. Wallace in
256 Explorations in New Guinea.
his 'Malay Archipelago,' and one a half-charred
Chinese Joss. These I took on board the ship, the
(Jeram man, Moy, who was with me At the time,
having assured me that they were no good, and
that I was doing no harmu Now on our return,
although somewhat late in the evening, I was sur-
prised that no prow came off from the shore, and I
sent the little pilot on shore in the ship's boat to
ascertain the cause.
In the morning he returned with a number of men,
and after some talk with my Malays and interpreters,
the pilot said the men were all in great trouble and
the women were all frightened because I had stolen
their god.
I brought out the two native idols, but they did not
care for them. As I had placed no value on the
Chinese Joss, it had been thrown down into the hold
among the firewood. The men were sent to look for
it, and, fortunately, it had not been split up and burnt,
so that I was able to restore it, to the great relief and
satisfaction of these people, who assured me that had
that god not been found, it would have been impossible
for the ship to get away. I asked them who told
them such stupid nonsense, adding that it was only a
A Chinese Joss. 257
piece of wood gilded over with *^ mass " (gold), that it
had no power, and that in all probability in another
day or two it would have been burnt ; for as I found
,it in the old burnt house I thought they attached no
value to it. They said they had purchased it for a
very high price from a Chinaman, who told them it
was a big god, and while they kept it, no harm could
come to them, and whoever stole it would never be
able to go away from their island. I said the China-
man was a great rogue and had robbed them — that
he knew very well that the idol could do them no
good.
They then went on shore, leaving the pilot on board,
but instead of proceeding straight to the beach, they
rowed twice up and down in front of the house singing
songs while one man stood holding aloft the idol.
They then landed and carried it affectionately up to
one of their houses.
This done, all who had nutmegs or other staples for
trade returned with them to the ship and we were very
good friends.
The little pilot, having again produced his father's
certificate, requested that I would write him one like it
so that he could show it to any other stranger visiting
8
fy
258 Explorations in New Guinea,
their islani This I readily did in the following
certificate : —
" iBland of Tarak, 19th January, 1887.
"The bearer, the Capitan of Tarak, is the only honest,
truth-speaking man I have met in North- West New Guinea,
and, as such, can be recommended. Strangers are warned to be
cautious in their dealings with the natives, more especially with
the Gulf tribes, and the men of Shemai, Kapow, and Ati Ati.
(Signed) " John Strachan, of Sydney,
" New South Wales."
Besides paying him liberally for his services I also
presented him with a suit of clothes, and he went ashore
perfectly satisfied, and apparently grateful.
1 had decided to leave the Ceram man here under
the protection of the Capitan, but he begged me to
take him to Adi, as he was afraid of the Papuan men ;
and as the people did not want him, he was permitted
to remain in the ship.
A breeze springing up we got under weigh, when
having cleared the island of Tarak we shaped a course
for Adi, proceeding with a fair wind until we reached
the southern point of the adjacent island. The wind
here shifted to right ahead and rendered it imperative
that we should seek anchorage before nightfall, the
depth of water being great, and the bay covered with
innumerable reefs. We therefore ran back for a
The Eugis Captain and Moy, 259
harbour which the Capitan had said we should find in
a small bay near the western end of the island.
The Ceram man urged me not to risk entering this
harbour, which he said was full of reefs. But seeing
a large junk riding snugly at anchor, we sailed in until
within one hundred and fifty yards of her, and brought
the vessel to an anchor in good water with no sign of
any reefs.
The captain of the junk, a Bugis trader, came off
from the shore in his boat, and, immediately the Ceram
man saw him, he pretended to be taken suddenly ill,
and went into the forecastle. The captain came on
board and enquired if we had a Ceram man named
Moy with us. On being answered in the affirmative
he said that this man was one of his people whom he
had sent to trade with the natives ; that he was a
deserter, and had taken with him a considerable
quantity of trade goods.
Moy was called out of the forecastle and brought aft,
when the Bugis captain spoke to him in stern
tones, adding that he had come to take him back
again, if I would give him up. This he now requested
me to do. In reply I expressed my anxiety to be rid
of a man, whom I believed to be an arrant scoundrel,
8 2
26o Explorations in New Guinea,
whom 1 knew to be untruthful, and who, while we
were at Shemai had allowed me to land, without
warning, amongst a people who were known to murder
all their visitors, and who, when the safety of my ship
compelled me to seek anchorage, had lold me this bay
was too dangerous to enter, owing to the number of
coral reefs. I added, that he was of no use to us, the
Bugis was welcome to him.
This being interpreted, Moy fell on his knees and
with tears running down his cheeks begged me not to
give him up to be murdered. He assured me that so
soon as the Bugis captain got him on board his own
ship, he would send him on shore and the Papuan
men would kill him; that the Bugis captain would
then return and report that one of his men had been
murdered by the natives of New Guinea.
I enquired of the Bugis captain if this were true.
He gave his shoulders a shrug and said " Perhaps it
is true, perhaps it is not true."
It was then explained that in my country men were
not killed for stealing, nor for running away from their
engagements. They were punished by being made
fast and locked up, but that men were killed only
for killing their fellows, and that however bad the
The Bugis Captain and Moy, 261
man Moy was or might have been, I dare not give
him up knowing for certain that he w^ould lose
his life.
The Bugis promised that if I would give him his
man he should be punished in the way I said ; they
would tie him up for a while, and then let him go to
work again.
Moy, who had remained on his knees, continued to
weep, and begged most piteously, offering to work for
me all his life for only his food, if I would keep him on
board the ship.
Not wishing to do an injustice to the Bugis, who
seemed a respectable trader, and on the other hand
being determined to give no man up to be murdered, it
was decided to run back and obtain the advice of the
Capitan of Tarak. The distance between the two
islands, it may be mentioned, was only two miles. We
immediately got under weigh and stood back to our
old anchorage and hailed for the Capitan to come on
board. Moy was ordered forward so that he could
not speak nor hear what was said.
When the Capitan arrived the matter was put before
him and his answer was literally as follows: *'The
Captain Bugis will not kill Moy, but he will send him
262 Explorations in New Guinea,
away, and he will never come back to Captain Bugis'
ship; the Papuan men will kill him. The Captain
Bugis will go back to his own country and will say
the Papuan men kill Moy. That will be all."
I said : " Then I cannot give him up to be
killed."
He said : " No, better, you take him Adi."
Thus convinced that if I gave the man up, I should
in some measure be an accessory to a murder, I
decided to retain him on board the ship, and returned
and again anchored near the Bugis junk. The
captain of the junk again boarded us, and I told him
that it would be impossible for me to give the man up ;
because if anything should happen to Moy my country-
men would not hold me guiltless, and that he had
better dismiss the matter from his mind.
The Bugis accepted this decision good-humouredly,
said that, although he would like to get the man back,
he gave me credit for keeping him, and passed some
very high encomiums on the English people as a
nation.
Our provisions by this time had run very short and
when he found that for six weeks we had been living
on sago and other coarse native fare, he showed his
A Present of Firearms, 263
practical sympathy by sending us a bag of one and
a half hundredweight of rice, about twenty -four
pounds of sugar and two tins of fancy wine Mscuits.
He also offered us dried deer flesh, but having
tried it before and found it uneatable we declined to
receive it.
I returned with him to hia junk, where he got me to
write my name in hii book so that we might be
friends. I asked wbat present I could give in return,
for all the things he had given to us. After some
hesitation, he said that if I could spare^ one he should
like a rifle. As we had several long range converted
Enfield rifles to spare, I decided to present him with
one. and also with a couple of hundred rounds of
ammunition.
Here again I was met by a Dutch Act which pro-
hibits the sale or presentation of firearms to any
natives on the Archipelago under penalty of one thou-
sand guilders ; but being prompted by the higher law
of necessity and wanting if possible to g6t some more
provisions, I decided to risk the fine, presented the
rifle, and sold the ammunition, for some more sugar,
curry-powder, and other articles.
A strong breeze springing up in our favour, we got
264 Explorations in New Guinea,
under weigh, and clearing the islands and reefs
shaped a course along the bold highlands of the Onin
peninsula for the island of Adi— distant more than a
hundred miles. The wind blew fitfully and unsteadily
all night, so that by the morning we had only accom-
plished about half of the distance.
( 26s )
CHAPTER XV.
MOY PLAYS ME FALSE.
The Island of Adi — Sending a Native in search of the Rajah —
The Rajah arrives with a laden Prow — We fail to come to
Terms — ^Moy's Treachery — ^1 send him about his Business
— Arogoni Bay — Nutmegs and Tortoise-shells — ^A fertile
Territory.
As we sailed along close to the shore we could see
that the country was everywhere magnificent, but could
not discern the faintest trace of inhabitants. Towards
noon we rounded the eastern point of the peninsula,
and hauling up to the northward with a strong breeze
we sailed along within one hundred and fifty fathoms
of the shore, huge black mountain storms travelling
along the land within half a mile of us, until we came
to the westernmost point of the island of Adi. This
we rounded and anchored opposite a small village.
Here the head man boarded us, and by him we were
informed that the Bajah, who resided some eight miles
J
266 Explorations in New Guinea,
distant, was preparing: his large prow to carry a cargo
of Misoi to Tarak, word having been sent him in
some mysterious manner that we were there. We
were assured by him, too, that in all the numerous
islets and in Adi itself there is a large quantity of
black walnut, known to them by the name of Berlau,
with which timber I had intended to complete my
cargo of New Guinea specimens.
Several of the natives came from the shore and
brought small parcels of tortoise-shell and pearl-shell, also
Beche-de-mer for barter, all of which were purchased.
The head man requested that I would send one
man with him to inform the Eajah of our arrival,
so that he might come quickly, and bring what he had
to dispose o£ This was a^^reed to, and one of the
Malays was dispatched in the evening, the natives
promising to return on the following morning.
As the whole of the next day passed without any
sign of their return, I manned my boat with one white
man and two Malays, one of whom was Moy, and
started to the village of the Eajah. Moy, who pro-
fessed to be \iell acquainted with the island, agreed to
act as pilot.
The weather was intensely hot, and as we pulled
The Rajahs Prow, 267
across bay after bay the men began to fag desperately,
so that it became necessary to land and take a rest.
After rowing about three hours we rounded a point
and saw coming towards us the Kajah's prow, with
colours flying, drums and gongs beating, and the men
singing as they paddled. Ordering the men to rest on
their oars, we waited for the Rajah's approach, and,
boarding, found our man, who told us that he had
been kindly treated, that the Rajah had told him that,
prior to our arrival, he had dispatched three large
prows to tlie Ki Islands heavily laden with Misoi,
nutmegs, tortoise- and pearl-shell for barter there.
This I subsequently learnt to be an utter and
uncalled-for falsehood, spoken with the intention of
impressing upon us the wealth of these people. As a
simple matter of fact not one prow had been sent from
Adi to the Ki Islands.
The Rajah's prow, which was a large one, was fully
laden, and contained at least half a ton of Misoi bark,
besides yams, tortoise-shell, and other staples, Moy's
brother, who was living under the protection of the
Rajah, was also on board.
We returned to the ship followed by the prow,
which was made fast alongside the vessel. The Rajah
iWP^^^^
268 Explorations in New Guinea,
was brought into the cabin and asked at what price he
was prepared to sell his cargo. For the Misoi bark he
asked fifty rupees per picul, the highest trade price
being equal to eight For tortoise-shell, which, being
of inferior quality, would have been worth about five
shillings per lb. in Sydney, he asked five rupees per
lb., and everything was priced at the same exorbitant
rate. I told him that it was to be regretted he had
troubled himself to come so far, as he would have to
take the whole of his staples back with him again ; that
it was not possible that we would do business, for
Englishmen had one fashion, which was to ask a fair
price in the first place, and not to abate it afterwards.
To this he made answer, ** That is my price. You are
Englishman, you give yours."
He next informed me that he had seen an
English ship before, which came there some forty years
prior to our visit, when he was a little boy ; that the
captain's name was Paul. This recalled to me a
report that I had heard in McQure's Gulf of a Sydney
schooner which had visited the Gulf some eight or ten
years previously, the captain of which had told the
natives that his name was '* Hot Cofice."
It is a most stupid thing for travellers to give
We fail to come to Terms. 269
fictitious names to uncivilized natives. Vessels trading
amongst the islands in unknown seas are constantly
being lost, leaving no trace behind them ; whereas, if
their commanders were careful to impress upon the
friendly races with whom they came into contact their
proper name, those who followed after would be able to
trace them and, if not to render assistance, would at
least be able to give their friends some idea as to
what had become of them.
But to return to our barter. ^ The Rajah having
again asked me to name a price, I made offer of
goods to the value of five rupees per picul for the
Misoi, and a half rupee for the tortoise-shell, and for
everything else at a corresponding rate, and from these
prices I would not move* Finding that we were not
likely to agree I told him he had better leave the ship
and go ashore.
On going on deck I found Moy and his brother in
deep conversation forward. Before taking the Bajah
below I had instructed one of the Malays to keep
within earshot of Moy, and, if possible, dbcover what
he was saying.
Finding no trade could be done with the Rajah it
it was decided that he should return to the ship on the
270 Explorations in New Guinea,
following morning. He asked me for the usual
presents. These I refused to give, and consequently
we parted not very good friends. Moy also wanted to
accompany his brother on shore, but this I refused,
and detained him on board the ship.
As soon ajs the prow had left, the Malay reported
that Moy had told the natives to ask a big price for
all their trade, because I did not understand its>value,
and if they only stuck out they would get all they asked.
I gave " Mr." Moy a night in irons and at daylight on
the following morning put the men to ball practice with
their rifles at a rock, distant one thousand yards across
the bay. Then, taking the irons ofl* Moy, I told him
he might swim to the shore, a distance of about three
hundred yards, and tell the Rajah from me that
under no circumstances would I now purcnase any of
his cargo, so that when next he met an Englishman he
might know that it was to his advantage to deal
fairly, and ask a reasonable price. I also told
him to say that, having considered the exorbitant
price that he had asked from me, I had come to
the conclusion that the five rupees which I had
offered him for the Misoi would, according to his
valuation, be altogether an inadequate price to fix for
/ send May about his Business, 27 1
staples which he valued so highly, and that I had
further decided to have nothing to do with them ; so
that, while not allowing him to cheat or rob me, he
could not say that in any way I had cheated or robbed
him.
The island of Adi is from twenty to twenty-five
miles in length, is hilly and densely wooded in places,
and contains possibly from one hundred and fifty to
two hundred inhabitants. Owing to the numerous
coral reefs the navigation is intricate and dangerous,
but there is good safe anchorage at its western end.
Moy having reached the shore, the natives gathered
round him on the beach where they were evidently
holding a somewhat excited and animated discussion.
To prove that I was in earnest I immediately got the
ship under weigh and stood away to the north-west for
Arogoni Bay. After threading our way through
a number of islands adjacent to Adi, each of which is
surrounded by a fringing coral reef, we entered the
channel, and running before ^a strong breeze, we
continued towards Arogoni Bay, the lead indicating
from four to five fathoms of water.
The highlands of the Peninsula here end abruptly
in an almost direct line from the western end of Adi,
272 Explorations in New Guinea.
and right up to Arogoni the coast-line is comparatively
low but not swampy. From the lowJying shore a
great reef extends for a distance of from two and a
half to three miles. We followed its edge until we
drew near the mouth of the bay, on the eastern side of
which is a remarkable sugar-loaf mountain.
Here we saw numerous canoes proceeding under sail
towards the village. Rounding to, we waited until one
of them overhauled us and then got a native on board
to act as pilot and by him we were carried safely to an
anchorage opposite the village, which consisted of three
larore houses. No sooner had we anchored than three
prows left the shore and came off to the ship bringing
the whole of the men of the village with them.
The Rajah, an old man, came on board and saluted me
by telling me that I was his papa or father. This is
simply a native dodge so that they can have a claim upon
you to ask for presents. I therefore told him that he was
an older man than me and that he should be my father
and that if he had any presents to bring I should be
very glad to receive them. I enquired as to the-
number of inhabitants, He said they had plenty of men,
a great number of people. I asked where all their
houses were. He pointed to the village containing
Nutmegs and Tortoise-shelL 273
three houses. I then asked where all the men were
and he pointed to my decks on which were gathered
natives to the number of about forty. This would lead
me to suppose that along about one hundred and
eighty miles of coast line there are only about two
hundred and fifty to three hundred souls.
At a distance of three miles from this village a
considerable river runs into the ocean, and I had
decided to enter and explore it into the interior, but
was assured by the Rajah that the whole of it was his
country and that there were no people there.
Having gathered considerable information as to the
resources of the place, I asked the question " Have you
got pearl-shell ? "
" Oh yes, a little at the house."
" Have you got tortoise-shell ? "
" Yes, a little at the house."
** Have you got nutmegs ? "
" Yes, a little at the house."
They promised that they would come off early m the
morning with their trade. I made them some presents
and they returned to the shore.
In the morning they again arrived at the ship,
bringing some very fine pearl-shell but in no quantity.
T
274 Explorations in New Guinea,
They also brought fifty or sixty nutmegs and two
or three pounds of tortoise-shell. The price asked for
the pearl-shell was too high for me to entertain the
idea of purchasing, and I again refused to trade unless
they would abate their prica This they subsequently
did and I purchased all they had at fairly reasonable
rates.
Being determined to see for myself if this was
the only village, we got under weigh and proceeded up
Arogoni Bay for a distance of some ten miles, until our
urther progress became so much obstructed by snags,
sand banks, and reefs that I did not deem it advisable
to risk being blocked in.
The men from Bentouni, already mentioned as
residing in the upper shores of McClure's Gulf, yearly
come over here with their Misoi and nutmegs to sell to
the Arab traders, the distance being only a day's
journey. As they must of necessity bring their cargoes
in their canoes I am led to believe that this supposed
Arogoni Bay is connected with McClure's Gulf by one
of the numerous channels already noticed, which
are defined on the chart numbered [3].
The country, I need not repeat, was everywhere
fertile and capable of supporting numerous inhabitants.
A fertile Territory. 275
«
On the south-western shores of the bay was fine densely
wooded undulating country ; on the north-eastern shore,
high, rugged, mountain lands with deep valleys, all
capable of utilization for the benefit and advantage of
the human race.
Returning by the north-eastern shore, we found the
water considerably deeper than ofi^ the low lands on the
south-west, and at night anchored near two little
islands, to await daylight ere we proceeded on our
voyage.
T 2
276 Explorations in New Guinea,
CHAPITER XVI.
"PKOVISIONS SHORT, AND ONLY NOT A WRECK."
Dutch Charts — ^Nimatota — ^The Chinese Storekeepers of Dobo —
The Post Holder's Wife and the Policeman — Off Ki Island In
a Hurricane — ^At Bauwar — ^Breakers under the Bow — ^My
little Papuan Boy — " Water, water, everywhere, but not a
drop to drink 1 " — ^A straight Run for Australia — Mr. Mac-
farlane's Teaching bears Fruit — ^A safe Return — Results of
the Expedition — Mahometans versus Kafirs — ^Responsibility
of the Government of the Netherlands — The Importance of
New G-uinea to England and Australia.
On the following morning, continuing to the east-
ward, we passed two deep bays, but as we could see
no sign of inhabitants did not enter, and by noon made
the island of Niraatota, which is marked on the Dutch
charts as a long narrow island. The charts we soon
discovered to be again in error, as instead of one
long island, Nimatota consists of a group of islands
with narrow channels between them. From the
seaward, however, they could easily be mistaken for
one island.
Dutch Charts. 277
As we reached the eastern end of the group we
sighted a native house with a flagstaff, where they
hoist the flag of the Netherlands. One small prow
pushed ofl^ from the shore, while another came from
between the islands, and conducted us to a very
insecure anchorage, where, however, we remained
all night In the morning the prows came oflF from
the shore and brought some nutmegs, but advised
us to sail the group, where we should have better
anchorage.
This was done, and we anchored close to the shore in
fifteen fathoms. The tide runs between the numerous
islands with great velocity, and makes the passage
exceedingly dangerous, as it is only on the top of
patches of reef that anchorage is to be found. As soon
as we anchored, the people requested us to fire our
big guns so as to attract the attention of the
neighbouring natives, who inhabit what, according
to the charts, is a part of the mainland, but in reality
a group of islands.
The whole of the charts issued under the authority of
the Dutch are inaccurate, and, having now followed
this coast line for a distance of some three hundred and
fifty miles, I found that in hardly any case could they
^K
278 Explorations in New Guinea.
be depended upon ; in fact, for all practical purposes the
coast has never been surveyed. For example, besides
the mistakes about Nimatota and the adjacent islands^
we find Shemai represented as consisting of one large
island, while it is really made up of innumerable islets.
Similar mistakes occur in the charts of McClure's Gulf
and Arogoni Bay.
With a handy steamer, one could spend months
in exploring these comparatively unknown waters,
moving from isle to isle, and revelling in scenes
of wild natural beauty ; but with a half-starved crew, a
vessel dependent entirely upon the wind, three anchors
lost and only sixty fathoms of chain left for the
one remaining anchor, the further examination of this
coast became too serious a matter for me to entertain.
It had been my original intention to follow the
coast line round to where a river debouches into
the Arafuru Sea, opposite a shoal marked on the
charts as Providential Bank, which river will I believe
be found connected with the Fly river at its junction
with the Alice river, discovered by D'Albertis. My
provisions having dwindled down to half a sack of rice
and six hundred native sago biscuits or cakes, and
being unable to purchase any more food from the
J
The Mayor of Adimoni. 279
natives, it became imperatively necessary for me
to think of returning to Australia.
I therefore decided to stay no longer than one
day at each place, and the natives were instructed
to bring such staples as they had for barter within
that time. Here we secured a few hundredweight of
nutmegs ; and in the afternoon the Mayor of Adimoni
paid a visit, and assured us that the Rajah had plenty
of nutmegs. I determined to proceed immediately
to Adimoni, having already purchased such staples
as the people of Nimatota had for sale.
The Mayor accompanied us, and entered into
an agreement to collect for me against my return.
I gave him a written document that I would return,
and he gave me a silk handkerchief to signify that
he had ratified the agreement.
On arrival, however, at Adimoni, we discovered
that, as usual, we had been led astray, arid that they
wanted time to go into the country to collect nutmegs
and the Misoi bark. As this meant simply a further
waste of time, I decided to remain no longer.
On weighing my provisions I found them to consist
of forty pounds of rice and less than six hundred
sago cakes, while the distance to Cape York was
28o Explorations in New Guinea,
750 miles. I therefore determined first to run for
Dobo in the Arm Islands, so well described by Mr.
Wallace in his * Malay Archipelago.'
We got under weigh at three o'clock in the after-
noon, with the tide in our favour and a light breeze.
No sooner, however, had we rounded the point from
Adimoni than the tide rushed through the islands
dead against us, and began to drive us in amongst
the cluster of islands situated where the chart re-
presents the mainland. The men were put to long
oars or sweeps, at which they dragged wearily from
four o'clock in the afternoon until eleven o'clock
in the evening, when a breeze springing up, the ship
gathered way, and we were enabled to clear the sur-
rounding dangers.
In due course we reached the low, flat, swampy island
of Dobo, when on anchoring we were boarded by an
Amboynese clerk and a solitary constable, from whom
we learnt that the Post Holder was away on the
pearl-shelling grounds at the other side of the islands.
We landed for the purpose of endeavouring to
procure some provisions, more especially flour and
sugar. We were not, however, very successful.
Although there were numerous Chinese storekeepers
The Post Holder's Wife and the Policeman, 281
in Dobo, they had only a fifty pound bag of rather
mouldy Californian flour, which they generously
offered to sell me for £2 sterling.
It being the middle of the fishing season, the
place was deserted except by the storekeepers. I
went from store to store in a vain endeavour to
get some provisions, and then proceeded to the house
of the Post Holder for the purpose of presenting
my letter of clearing. As the front door was closed,
we proceeded through the yard or compound to the
back, where, on a verandah at the back of the house,
we found the clerk and the policeman hugging the
Post Holder's wife, who as soon as she saw us rushed
screaming into the house. The Amboynese policeman
jumped up, and with all the fierceness he could assume
and waving his hand and pointing to the gate, said,
" Pigi de pigi ! " (Go away, go away I ). To this I
replied, *' Beta pigara de Post Holder de police de beni
trebai banyak trebai," literally, " I will speak to the
Post Holder that his wife and the policeman are no
good, plenty no good," and with that turning on my
heel, I left. The clerk ran through the house, and
opening the front doors, wished me to come in, but I
continued down to the beach, determined to get
282 Explorations in New Guinea.
under weigh immediately and not bother about
entering the ship in or out of the Port. As I
approached the boat the clerk came running after me
and said, "Tuan Post Holder's beni belee tombak
Anglici sediki sediki," — that is, "The Post Holder's
wife will buy a little English tobacco " To this I
replied, " Pigi de pigi ! " and stepping into my boat,
pulled off to the ship, got the boat in, the anchor up,
and with all sails set, shaped a course for the Ki
Islands, where one of the Malays assured me I should
get plenty of provisions.
The distance between these groups is only sixty
miles, and as we had a leading wind, I hoped to make
the great Ki island by daylight on the following
morning.
At three o'clock the officer of the watch called me
to report that we were drawing near to the land. On
reaching the deck I saw to the windward what ap-
peared to be the outline of the great Ki island. The
ship was kept away to run down along the coast, then
strangely the island seemed to alter its shape, and
the ship was kept away a little more. The island next
appeared to be advancing towards us, and it suddenly
struck me that it was one of those terrific hurricane
A Hurricane. 283
squalls that sweep these seas, which, having come over
the great Ki, was advancing towards us, presenting
an outline something like that of the island. Sail was
immediately shortened, and shortly after the squall
struck us with hurricane force. Eain fell In torrents,
and the vivid flashing of the lightning, with now and
s^gain a sharp crack of thunder, as if the earth was
rending in twain, made the experience not a pleasing
one either to myself or to my ill-fed crew.
The oscillation of the compass too was something
remarkable. During the height of the storm the
compass seemed to oscillate at least one hundred and
eighty degrees, while the roaring of the wind-spouts
passing within a few hundred yards of the ship,
showed in how close proximity we were to destruction.
For over two hours and a half the squall raged with
the violence of a terrific hurricane ; then it passsed
over, and was followed by numerous short squalls of
less force.
Succeeding in ultimately gaining an anchorage at
the Ki, we found we were again disappointed in
procuring provisions, but were assured that we should
find plenty of provisions and pigs at Bauwar, another
island separated from the great island by a channel
284 Explorations in New Guinea.
ten miles broad, and opposite which the chart showed
good anchorage in ten fathoms of water.
Although only distant some twenty miles, it was three
days ere we reached the anchorage. We were at once
boarded by the Eajah, and informed that farther up an
Englishman had a coffee plantation, and that on the
small island of Kadoolen, Captain Langer, a German,
had a saw-mill. The Eajah was a Mahometan, and
did not keep pigs, but at another village there were
some Hindoos who did.
To this village we proceeded, and found several fat
grunters, for the smallest of which a sum in money
equal to about £3 sterling was asked. This, although
we were starving, I refused to give, and had to leave
without adding much to our stock of provisions. We
were however enabled to purchase sufficient yams and
enough sweet potatoes for about two meals, and we
continued our course between the islands until we
came to another village. Here we got a few more
yams and purchased a large quantity of candle nuts,
in all about a ton.
We landed at this village for the purpose of in-
specting their timber, and we found them to be a most
industrious people, who had many large prows on the
The Island of Bauwar. 285
stocks, built of almost imperishable timber, known
amongst themselves as " kiu beshie," or iron-wood, of
bright red colour, and very prettily marked. They
had also another wood, the knots of which are much
used for veneering work. This they call "kiu
lingua," and I was assured that in a bay some short
distance up there was plenty of black walnut.
To this bay we proceeded, and landing, found the
black walnut, of moderate growth, in abundance ; but
when the men were set to fell the trees, I found that
with their weakened emaciated frames, they were
altogether unequal to this laborious work. I therefore
had to abandon the idea, and to return to the ship.
Here I secured the services of a pilot to take me
to Captain Langer's saw-mill, where I was informed
the Englishman who owned the plantation was staying,
and from whom I hoped to get some provisions.
This island of Bauwar, which is marked on the
charts as one island, is comprised, as usual, of
numerous islets, with deep channels, through which
rush strong tides.
Our anchorage being very unsafe, and the pilot
assuring us that there were no outlying dangers, save
one reef which I had already detected between Ki
286 Explorations in New Guinea,
Bauwar and Ki Doolan, I decided to continue all
night As soon as the sun set, the weather became
stormy, squall after squall rushing down upon us with
hurricane force. Our pilot took fright, and went
below.
A strong current had evidently swept us consider-
ably out of our course, so that at twelve o'clock I
sighted a reef to leeward, facing the great Ki Island.
The ship was tacked, and we again stood over to the
opposite shore, as close as it was deemed advisable,
and the wind at last favouring us, we were able to
shape a course which it was supposed would clear us
of all dangers, and at half-past one I went below.
I returned on deck at three, and again at four, and
then to my surprise saw breakers immediately under
the bow. The helm was rolled down, and the ship
brought to the wind, but she would not stay. The
anchor was let go, but there was no bottom until we
got to the reef edge, when we found that we had only
six feet of water under our stern, and the vessel
bumped among the coral in the middle of a heavy
surf.
The chain was paid out, and the vessel forced on
to the reef, after which all sail was snugly stowed,
My little Papaun Boy. 287
yards sent down, and everything done to ease the ship,
but we continued to bump heavily.
The boat was got out alongside, with the intention of
remaining in it until daylight, but no sooner were the
men in her, than a huge roller capsized and swamped
her, at the same time sweeping the ship broadside on to
the surf, and so into shallow water.
All this time I had clinging to my neck, the little
Papuan boy Roeambati, whom I had rescued in
McClure's Gulf. The little fellow seemed to realise
his danger, and clung to me without a murmur.
Our boat was righted and baled out, but we had
lost all our oars. Fortunately daylight began to dawn,
and showed us two villages on the shore about four
miles distant.
The tide had by this time receded, so that We could
walk round the vessel, and found that she had sustained
little or no damage except to her copper, and that the
reef was composed of small stones^ and clumps of rotten
coral. It seemed that if assistance could be procured
to underrun our anchor it would be possible to save the
vessel.
Having a number of natives' paddles on board, they
were put into requisition in lieu of oars, and we started
288 Explorations in New Guinea.
for the shore to seek assistance. The natives ran out
of their houses and by signals guided us into a safe
landing.
We had fortunately landed at a kafir or heathen
village. A mile distant was a Mahometan village,
from which the people came flocking to see us. These
Mahometans, as usual, treated us with callous in-
difference, but the heathens prepared breakfast of sago,
rice, tara, yams and sweetmeats made from sago, and
gave us Sewair, a kind of palm wine, to drink.
Nothing could exceed the kindness and hospitality of
these people, a bright contrast to the cold-heartedness
of their Mahometan neighbours.
The old chief informed me that he would bring
three large prows full of men, and we should get the
ship off all right, and he spoke words of comfort and
endeavoured by his evident sympathy to show how he
commiserated with our condition.
I decided to return in a fast prow, and to leave the
mate and the crew to come off with the ship's boat
and three prows full of men to assist us. I intended to
have left the boy at the village, as he would only be in
the way, but he howled and cried so, that I thought it
better to take him with me.
Assistance from the Natives. 289
The natives struck up a song, and the prow fairly
dashed through the water, sending continuous sprays
over us, so that I rolled my little savage boy in my
oilskip coat, and he fell quietly asleep in my arms in
all the trustful innocence of infancy.
We reached the ship, and the tide, which was now
rising rapidly, was again causing her to bump a good
deal. But having previously made a bed in the loose
stones, this did little or no damage ; and by the time
the assistance which had followed us from the shore
. arrived, she was afloat and riding to her anchor.
Having improvised a jury-anchor with a piece of
spare chain round a coral clump, the strain was taken
from the anchor, the cable underrun, and the anchor
picked up and got on board. Then cutting the warp
attached to the chain round the coral, we made sail on
the vessel and forced her over the reef, and, running
down, anchored snugly under the little island of Eflat,
within one hundred and fifty yards of the shore.
At low water we beached the vessel and repaired
some damage done to the rudder, and got our boat on
board for repairs.
The surf breaking over the vessel had destroyed
the whole of our fresh water, and our boat being stove
u
290 Explorations in New Guinea,
could not be utilised for the purpose of getting a fresh
supply.
The men who had assisted us off had been paid in
clothing, axes, knives, tobacco, and other trade goods
to the value of about £70, and had returned to their
homes. I therefore sent for the hfeid man of the
island, who came on board in^ a large canoe. Like
his people, he professed the Mahometan faith.
Having passed the usual salutation, he seated
himself on the ship's rail, while I took a seat alongside
of the wheel. I there explained to him our pitiful
plight, that we had little to eat and that we now had
no water to drink, and asked him for what sum he
would bring us four casks of water. He promptly
answered eight dollars, equal to ten shillings sterling,
per cask. He was asked if he would take payment in
trade. He said " No, I must have money." I said
" But I have not got money, and we must have water
or we will die." He replied that he could not help
that; unless we were prepared to pay money we
should get no water.
I instructed the mate to hoist our ensign with the
union down, and pointing to the flag asked him if he
understood its significance. He said no, he knew
In Want of Water, 291
nothing about it. I said, " That means that we are in
distress, we have no water, we have no food. But you
come to ray country with your flag flying like that, and
they would give you clothing and would give you
shelter." To this he made answer, **They are very
good people in your country, very good, but we don't
do things like that at Efiat. If you want water you
must pay for it."
I then ordered the interpreter to bring me a
pannikin of water from the tank, and taking a
mouthful of it spat it out, arid then passed it to the
hesid man, who tasted it and said, " If you drink that
you will soon die." I said, " Yes, we must die unless
you will give us water. You see how we are placed ;
will you bring us some water ? " He answered, " No,
not unless you pay me."
Making a jump from my seat, I clapped one hand
across his breast and the other under his legs, and
saying, "Then you shall drink the same as we are
drinking," I threw him overboard. His followers all
jumped after him.
Calling out to the interpreter for my rifle, I sprang
upon the tafirail and, pretending to be in a towering
rage, called them orong makin babi (men that ate
292 Explorations in New Guinea,
pigs), whose hearts were no good, and threatened to
write to the Governor-General.
Had it not been for the seriousness of our position, I
should certainly have laughed outright, for as I shook
my rifle, and now and again presented it at him, he
beamed upon me with a smile that was childlike and
bland.
They reached their prow and pulled ashore, where
all the people congregated on the beach to meet them,
and after some discussion a boat was dispatched
bearing two large jars of water, and they promised
that they would fill up the whole of our casks on the
following day.
This was done, and they were liberally paid for it in
cloth and other goods.
After great difficulty in working our way out
through the reefs, I decided to make a straight run for
Australia, and on the fourth day from leaving the Ki
islands made the lightship at Proudfoot shoals, at the
entrance to Torres Straits.
Passing through the Prince of Wales Channel, I
again hauled up for the coast of New Guinea, and
anchored off the village of Mowatta in the Katow
river. Here, so soon as my old friends knew that we
Missionary Men at Mowatta. 293
were short of provisions, canoe after canoe came off to
the ship laden with cocoanut, tara, yams, and pig, and
fijom a Beche-de-mer man we got fifty pounds of flour
and some sugar. Over three thousand cocoanuts were
brought on board, and without any dispute the natives
were paid at the rate of one stick of tobacco tor every
five cocoanuts.
Here also I found that the natives, although I had
been long absent, had been faithful to their trust and
had felled a large quantity of cedar, some of which I
took on board. The bushmen also, from whom it will
be remembered I purchased their god, also came down
to see me, and presents were made to them, and goods
left to be sent down the coast to pay my people to
westward.
The reader will remember that in my last expedition,
when at Tun Turi, I purchased three skulls from
the chief, and that they were greatly prized by
medical gentlemen in Sydney. This led me to en-
quire of one of the missionary men at Mowatta if they
had any more skulls to dispose of — an enquiry which
brought upon me a just, though severe rebuke.
The man said : *' I cannot understand you white
fellows. Mr. Macfarlane come here and he say, * You
N
294 Explorations in New Guinea.
no cut man head off, that no good, you cut man head
off, God be angry.* Then you white fellow come you say,
* You got man head, you got man head ; suppose you
got man head, me buy him from you ? ' What fashion
you call that ? Suppose we no kill man we no take
um head. Suppose we kill man, we let him lie, we no
take man bead. Now what you white fellow always
speak same that for ? "
I felt the rebuke and explained that Mr. Macfarlane
was quite right, and that it was wrong to take the men's
heads, and that I only asked out of curiosity to know
whether they still kept any men's heads, but I do not
think he believed me.
Our food, though still coarse, was plentiful, and the
men were beginning to gather strength ; but the
constant exposure of the voyage had terribly told upon
my own health. During the passage from the Ki
Islands until we anchored in Torres Straits — four and a
half days — I had never been below nor closed my eyes,
and my stomach had been so weak that when food was
placed before me I could not eat it. It therefore
became necessary for me to think about returning
to the south, more especially as I was already nearly
four months overdue in Sydney.
End of my Exploration, 295
Having left goods to be sent on to my friends in
Saibai, Daubo, Baigo and Strachan Island, I bade
farewell to my good friends at Mowatta and Turi
Turi, and standing across the straits, reached the
hospitable mansion of my kind friend, Mr. Frank L.
Jarduie, at Cape York, on the 2nd March, 1887. By
him I was hospitably and kindly received, provisions
were sent to my ship and a comfortable bed provided
for me, and there I was carefully nursed until suflSciently
recovered to proceed home.
Here for all the objects of exploration my narrative
must end. The work performed during this last
expedition was of a most comprehensive character, and
disclosed not only many varieties of life and different
traits of character in peoples living within short
distances of each other, but also conclusively proved to
me the influence of the difierent religious teachings
upon the human race.
The bulk or the greater proportion of the tribes met
with in the north-west were followers of Islam and, as
this narrative proves to demonstration, they are a race
of liars, thieves and murderers, whose main object in
life seems to be to deceive. Devoid of all principles of
honesty and honour, they cannot recognize nor
296 Explorations in New Guinea.
appreciate such principles in others. The Prince and
two Bajahs from Tidore, so frequently spoken of, were
co-religionists of these people, and their master, the
Sultan, was Lord Paramount of the land. Yet no
religious feeling nor any sentiment of loyalty to their
lord restrained them fix)m brutally murdering these
unfortunate chie& when they were their guests.
I have read much of the rights of hospitality as
practised among the Mahometan races, but from a long
experience I am led to the conclusion that these sacred
rights, so much talked about by travellers, do not exist.
On the other hand, the savages or, as they are called
by their Mahometan neighbours, Kafirs — a word
which I suppose has been imported by the Arab traders
and which signifies heathen — ^are a more reliable people,
more honest in their dealings, and ever willing to show
a kindness to the stranger.
When, however, we contrast either the Kafir or the
Mahometan with those who some few years ago were
wild cannibals on the south, but who, through the efforts
made by the noble band of men representing the London
Missionary Society, have within the last twelve or
fourteen years been brought to a knowledge of the
Christian religion, the difference is most marked. On
Responsibility of Government of Netherlands, 297
the one hand we see bloodthirstiness, treachery and
cunning, and on the other, child-like simplicity and
innocent trust
I confess to feeling that the Government of the
Netherlands cannot be held blameless for the state
in which I found these people. The importation
of spirits, opium, powder and arms is, it is true,
prohibited, but the Arab and Bugis traders yearly
visit these places carrying large suj^lies of each. No
eflTective restriction is placed upon the action of the
natives. Traders are murdered and they murder one
another, friendly tribes join together and organize
great slave-hunting expeditions, attack the more
savage races and carry off their women and children
into slavery. At the same time not one of these
barbarians proceeds one hundred yards from the shore
in a canoe unless flying the ensign of the Netherlands ;
and I consider it the imperative duty of the Dutch
Government to send round a ship of war to collect
every flag from these tribes, because the stranger,
running down amongst them and seeing the flag of
a friendly nation flying, receives them with full con-
' fidence, and finds to his sorrow when it is too late,
that instead of being among people representing a
X
298 Explorations in New Guinea,
civilized and cultured nation, he has run into a horde
of savages who, to use the words of the commandant at
the island of Gissor, will smile in your face, "shake
one hand and hold the other in the breast, with the
knife ready to plunge into you."
The whole of the vast extent of territory which
these pages show to have been visited, is capable of
being utilized to the utmost advantage for the benefit
of the overcrowded centres of such a country as this ;
and to me it seems incomprehensible that the apathy of
our rulers in matters pertaining to New Guinea should
be so great. For years past it has been lying without
our reach, and it is still almost a tefrra incognita. With
their portion the Dutch have done simply nothing, and
I have been well assured by those in high places, that
were an offer made by the Imperial Government of
Great Britain to the Government of the Netherlands
to relieve it of its portion, such an oflFer would readily
be accepted.
The people of Australia, if assured by the Imperial
authorities that they would not be, as hitherto, casting
their money into a bottomless sack, would readily pay
any expenses attending either the purchase or the
government of this fair land. The Colonies have
Importance of New Guinea to England, 299
1 , .
already expended £50,000, and all they have got in
return has been a Government bungalow and a goal
erected at Port Moresby; and the effect of the
contribution has been to facilitate the settlement of
foreigners in the country and to prohibit the settliement
of the Australian or the Briton.
Foreigners may acquire as much territory as they
like in British New Guinea, but no Englishman has
the privilege of purchasing a single acre from the
natives. If he does purchase any, he is warned that
at no time will his acquisition be recognised by the
Imperial Government. This may be in strict harmony
with the ideas of a Liberal policy and of Liberal
justice ; but it is hardly calculated to draw more
closely the bonds which unite the Australian people
to those of Great Britaia Neither is it likely that
statesmen such as Sir Henry Parkes, the Hon.
James Service, Sir Samuel Griffiths, Sir Thomas
MTUwraith, and others who watch over and guide
the destinies of Australia, will expend Australia's
money to make room for the alien in a country from
which their own fellow-colonists are excluded.
These are things that have caused the friction
between Australia and the so-called Government of
300 Explorations in New Guinea.
the British Protectorate in New Guinea — friction
which I trust is now over, thanks to the interest taken
by the Noble Lord who at the present time conducts
Australian affairs in the Imperial Colonial Office and
whose desire, from his entry upon office, has ever been
to promote Australia's prosperity and to encourage
Australian enterprise.
LONDON: PKIXTBI) BT WILLIAM CLOWBS AND SONS, LIMITED,
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