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Full text of "Extremadura costume : women's festival dress at Monte hermoso, Caceres, ten illustrations from photographs in the collecton of the Hispanic Society of America"

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Extremadura   C os -1:111116 •      W orients   Festi- 
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university  of  California 

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EXTREMADURA  ^-^^ 

COSTUME 

WOMEN'S    FESTIVAL    DRESS 

AT 

MONTEHERMOSO,   CACERES 


TEN    ILLUSTRATIONS 

-FROM     PHOTOGRAPHS 

IN    THE    COLLECTION    OF 

THE     HISPANIC     SOCIETY 

OF    AMERICA 


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A   'obi  042  797    9 


ISSUED     BY    ORDER     OF 

THE    TRUSTEES 

NEW   YORK 


University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

405  Hilgard  Avenue,  Los  Angeles,  CA  90024-1388 

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from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


lis  book  is  DUE  on  1 
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FESTIVAL  DRESS  (DETAIL) 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

A  large  cross  of  gold  filigree  is  worn  on  a  silk  ribbon  tied  about 
the  neck.  A  medal  of  gold  with  black  and  white  enamel  hangs  from 
a  necklace  of  gold  beads.  The  large  gold  earrings  are  concealed  by 
the  kerchief. 


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FESTIVAL  DRESS 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

The  woman  wears  on  her  head  a  kerchief  of  yellow  silk,  bordered 
with  a  stripe  of  red.  A  cape  of  black  woolen  material,  edged  with  green 
silk  ribbon  and  trimmed  with  a  serpentine  design  of  red  silk  ribbon,  is 
crossed  over  a  black  sateen  blouse,  made  with  tight  sleeves  and  large 
embroidered  cuflFs.  A  black  apron  is  worn  over  a  full  pleated  skirt  of 
black  and  mulberry-coloured  flannel,  faced  with  green.  The  hand  knit 
stockings  are  of  light  blue  wool,. and  the  shoes,  of  black  leather. 

The  outer  skirt  is  worn  over  six  full  petticoats  which  give  extraordi- 
nary width  to  the  hips.  The  petticoats  are  of  flannel:  mulberry -coloured, 
green,  orange,  and  white. 


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DRESS  WORN  TO  CHURCH 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

The  mother  has  over  her  head  the  semi-circular  cape  which  is 
worn  to  church  by  the  Tnontehermoseha.  The  cape  is  made  of  black 
broadcloth,  bordered  with  black  velvet,  and  trimmed  in  the  centre 
front  with  a  tassel  of  black  yarn.  Under  the  cape  she  wears  a  kerchief 
of  lemon-coloured  wool  with  a  floral  border  of  brilliant  hues.  The 
ends  of  the  kerchief  hang  down  over  a  small  mulberry-coloured  cape 
which  is  worn  over  a  waist  of  black  sateen.  An  apron  of  black  home- 
spun woven  with  stripes  of  blue  and  red  is  tied  over  a  skirt  of  mulberry- 
coloured  flannel.  A  handkerchief  is  fastened  at  the  waistline.  Light 
blue  woolen  stockings  are  worn  with  black  velvet  shoes. 

The  baby  is  dressed  in  a  christening  costume.  He  wears  a  cap  of 
white  lawn  trimmed  with  rosettes  of  red  ribbon  and  a  bunch  of  coloured 
flowers.  A  deep  ruffle  of  white  lace  is  gathered  about  the  neck.  The 
body  is  tightly  wrapped  in  a  cloth  of  red  flannel  figured  in  black  and 
trimmed  with  gilt  tinsel  braid. 


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DRESS  WORN  TO  CHURCH  (BACK  VIEW) 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

The  cape  hangs  in  deep  folds.  The  skirt,  stitched  with  rows  of 
horizontal  tucks,  stands  out  as  though  stiH^ened  with  wire.  Coloured 
ribbons  are  fastened  at  the  waistline. 


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FESTIVAL  DRESS  (BACK  VIEW) 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

Ribbons  of  pink  silk  hang  down  the  back  of  the  cape.  The  sash 
ribbons  are  blue  and  rose  with  coloured  figures. 


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FESTIVAL  DRESS 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

A  kerchief  of  rose  and  white  silk  edged  with  fringe  rests  upon  the 
high  chignon.  A  black  cape  trimmed  with  red  and  green  is  worn  over  a 
blouse  of  black  sateen.  An  apron  of  black  homespun  partly  covers  the 
pocket,  worked  with  rose,  green,  and  yellow  wools,  which  is  tied  about 
the  waist  over  a  full  skirt  of  mulberry-coloured  flannel.  Light  blue 
woolen  stockings  are  worn  with  shoes  of  black  velvet  embroidered  in 
silks  of  many  colours. 


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POCKET 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

A  pocket  (Jaltriquera)  of  red  woolen  material  is  embroidered  in 
wools  of  many  different  colours:  rose,  green,  and  yellow  predominating. 
The  pocket  is  tied  about  the  waist  and  worn  on  the  right  hip  under  the 
apron  and  over  the  skirt. 


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CAPE 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 


The  cape  {esclavina)  of  black  woolen  material  is  edged  with  bright 
green  silk  ribbon  and  trimmed  with  a  serpentine  design  of  red  silk 
ribbon.  When  the  cape  is  worn,  the  right  side  is  crossed  over  the  left, 
and  the  strings  are  tied  at  the  waistline  in  the  back. 


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EMBROIDERED  SHOES 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

The  shoes  are  made  of  black  velvet  embroidered  with  spangles 
and  bright-coloured  silks.  The  upper  edge  of  the  shoe  is  bound  with 
figured  velvet. 


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SKIRT 
Montehermoso,  Caceres 

A  skirt  of  mulberry-coloured  flannel  is  pleated  at  the  hips  and 
tucked  in  horizontal  rows  above  the  hem.  The  pleats  are  held  in  place 
with  three  rows  of  black  stitching.  The  top  of  the  skirt  is  finished  with 
tape  striped  in  red,  green,  and  yellow.  The  opening  is  placed  in  front. 
In  adjusting  the  skirt  the  back  tape  is  tied  first,  and  then  the  front 
flap  is  fastened  in  place. 


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EXTREMADURA     -- 

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COSTUME 

WOMEN^S    FESTIVAL    DRESS 

AT 

MONTEHERMOSO.   CACERES 


TEN    ILLUSTRATIONS 

-FROM     PHOTOGRAPHS 

IN    THE    COLLECTION    OF 

THE     HISPANIC     SOCIETY 

OF    AMERICA 


ISSUED    BY    ORDER    OF 

THE    TRUSTEES 

NEW    YORK 


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