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FARM APPLIANCES

A PRACTICAL MANUAL

EDITED BY

GEOKGE A. MAETIN.

NEARLY TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS C

NEW YORK:

0. JUDD CO., DAVID W. JUDD, Prest.

751 BROADWAY.

1888

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, by the

O. JUDD CO.,

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington

INTRODUCTION.

Inventive talent has completely revolutionized the
processes of farming. The work which required the
labor of many, under primitive methods, is now better
done by one person with the aid of improved appliances.
To explain and illustrate some of the most practical
and easily made appliances is the object of this volume.
They are such as secure greater comfort to domestic
animals, provide supplies of wholesome water, economize
labor and assist in dispatching much of the important
work on the farm. The hints and suggestions herein
contained are the result of practical experience. It is
believed that every farmer, gardener, householder, in
fact every one interested in labor-saving contrivances,
will find very much of interest and value in this volume.

Sunk

(3)

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter I.
Racks, Mangers, Stanchions and Troughs 7- 34

Racks and Feed-Boxes for Horses ; Covered Horse
Manger ; Feeding Trough and Hay-Shute : Device for
Box-Stall ; Feed "Box for Extra Stall ; Various Cattle
Stanchions ; Feeding Crib for Pork Producing Sections ;
Sheep-Rack and Feed-Box ; A Barrel Rack ; Improve-
ments in Pig Troughs ; A Plank Trough ; A Protected
Trough ; Troughs for the Pasture ; Improved Grain Bin ;
Straw Baler ; Watering Troughs for Stock ; A Guarded
Horse Trough ; Box for Watering Pails ; Home-Made
Heating Vat.

Chapter II.

Vehicles, Rollers, Harrows and Markers... 35- 56

A Cart for Breaking Colts ; A Home-Made Cart : Ap-
paratus for Lifting a Wagon-Body ; Jack for Wagon
Box ; Serviceable Wagon Jacks ; Adjustable Wagon
Seat ; Lubricating Axles ; A Light Sleigh or " Jumper";
A Substantial Sied ; A Dump Sled ; A Triple Land
Roller ; A Cheaper Triple Roller ; A Double Land
Roller ; Stalk Leveler ; Useful Clod Crasher ; A Brush
Harrow ; An Improved Harrow Frame ; Land Markers ;
Combined Marker and Clod-Crusher ; A Land Leveler.

Chapter III.

Small Tools and Appliances 57- 82

Bag Holders ; Handling Potatoes ; Grindstones and
Frames ; Tool Holder ; How to Repair a Grindstone ; A
Wooden Manger Fork ; Home-Made and Useful Chaff
Forks ; Stable Scraper and Broom : A Straw or Hay
Hook ; Fork for Handling Stones ; Salt Box for Stock ;
Safety Single-Tree ; Root Pulpers and Cutters ; Root
Washers ; Clamps and Stool for Repairing Harness ; A
Box Saw-Horse ; Long Saw-Bucks ; How to Tie a Bag;

* A Home-Made Rake Head ; Working Building Stone ;

Block for Sand-Paper.

Chapter IV.
Appliances for the Barn, Pasture and Dairy 83- 97

Convenient Stable Ventilator ; Light needed in Barns ;
Lanterns in the Barn ; Safety Stick for Mare's Halter ;
To Keep a Horse from Jumping ; Coupling Horses in
the Pasture ; A Simple Tether ; "Chain Cattle Tie ; An
Unpatented Calf-Feeder ; Two Kinds of Milking Stools ;
Vat for Deep-Setting Milk; Home-Made Butter Worker ;
A Convenience for Fly Time ; Reins for Driving Oxen ;
Vat for Dipping Sheep ; Sheep-Shearing Bench ; Ear
Tag Punch for Marking Animals ; Sewing up Wounds in
Animals.

(v)

vi table of contexts.

Chapter V.

Wells. Pumps. Cisterns and Filters 97-121

"Windlass and Tilting Bucket : Well-Curb or Staves ;
Hemlock for Well-Curbs : Securing tbe Well-Bucket ;
Curb 'with a Bucket Shelf : Covered Well-Curbs : Im-
pure Water in Wells ; Hook for Cleaning Wells : A
Non-Freezing Pump : Agitation of Air in Wells : Deep-
ening Wells T Diegiug a'Well : How to Build a Cistern ;
Water in the Barnyard : Wooden Water Pipes ; Filters
for Family Use : Connecting Cisterns : Build and Dimen-
sion of Cisterns : Cisterns with Filters.

Chapter VI.

Appliances for Handling Hay and Corn Fodder 121-143

Revolving Horse Rake : Care of Mowins Machines ;
Sweep for Gathering Hay : Hauling Hay or Stalks : Der-
rick for Stacking f Hay Carrier for Horse Fork ; Hay
Barracks : Supports for Stacks : Home-Made Hay
Press : Twisting Hay and Straw : Standard for Corn
Shocks: Ventilator for Stacks : Bench for Husking;
Corn-Stalk Band : Convenient Fodder Carrier.

Chapter VII.

Stump-Pullers. Derricks and Slings - 144-154

Stump-Pullers ; Derricks for Farm Use ; Slings for
Hoisting Heavy Objects : Derrick for a Cellar : Lever
Apparatus for Lifting : A Home-Made Horse-Power.

Chapter VLU.

Preparing and Handling Fertilizers 154-165

Hauling Barnyard Manure : Implement for Fining
Manure : Muck and Peat : How to Burn Lime : Value
of Gas Lirue : Burning Clay and Sods : Converting
Straw into Manure : Manure from Marl aBd Shells :
Making Fertilizer from Bones.

Chapter IX.

Appliances for the Gardenand Orchard 165-18i

Paper Plant Protector : Muslin-Covered Plant Screen :
Protected Plant Label : Poles for Beans and other
Climbers : Potting Btrawbeny Plants ; Stand for Berry
Baskets : Tube for Watering Plants : Movable Trellis
for Grapes : Tool for Cutting Edgings : Substitute for
Pea Brush : Trellis for Tomatoes : "Tools for Killing
Weeds : Various Fruit Pickers : Frnit Ladders ; Japan-
ese Pruning Saw : Rabbits and Mice in the Orchard;
Implements Used in Cranberry Culture.

Chapter X.

Appliances for Slaughtering Hoes and Curing the Meat 1S4-198

Sticking Hogs : A Better Way : Heating the Water
for Scalding : Scalding Tubs and Vats : Hanging and
Cleaning the Hoes : Packing Pork : Box for Salting
Meats : flaking Sausages : Smoking the Meat ; Cheap
Temporary Smbke-House.

FARM APPLIANCES.

CHAPTER I.

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS AND TROUGHS.
RACKS AND FEED-BOXES FOR HORSES.

There are various forms of racks, mangers and feed-
boxes for horses. One of the worst devices is the old-

Fig. 1. — FEEDING RACK FOR HORSES.

fashioned hay-rack, extending from the manger high
above the head of the horses, which are compelled to
reach up for their hay. This is a most unnatural posi-
tion for a horse, which does not, when out of the
stable, take its food like a giraffe from trees, but
from the ground. Aside from this, a high rack causes
the double peril of getting dust into the lungs and other
objects into the eyes of the horses. The above en-

*!&**

8 FARM APPLIANCES.

graving shows an arrangement for hay and cut feed, or
dry grain, which prevents waste, and is very convenient
for the horse and its owner. The manger extends across
the whole stall (a single one) and is reached through a
falling door in the feeding passage. The hay box goes
to the bottom, and has a barred door, through which the
waste chaff may be removed, if it does not workout. The
feed-box is protected by a barred cover, made of half-inch
round iron, having spaces through which the horse can
feed; but the bars prevent him from throwing out the
feed or grain, in the attempt to pick out the best. The
halter is run through a hole in the top of the manger, or
a ring bolt in the side of the stall, and has a block of
wood at the end, by the weight of which it is kept drawn
tight, leaving no slack for the horse to get entangled
with. When the horses are fed, the feeding door is shut
and fastened by a button.

— -»*•- —

COVERED HOR5E MANGER.

Horses will get their heads to the bottom of the hay

Fig. 2.— IMPROVED HORSE MANGER.

manger if they can, and will often throw the hay out,
if not prevented. The illustration, figure 2, is taken

HACKS, MAXGER3, STANCHIONS, ETC. i

from a stable, in which such annoyance is easily and
simply prevented. A rack of iron rods, or of wood, is
made and hinged to the top of the manger in front, so
that it may be thrown up and over the front when the
manger is filled, and then turned down upon the hay.
The bars or rods are just far enough apart for the horse
to get his nose through to the hay, but of course, he can-
not get his head through. Iron is better than wood, be-
cause the horse cannot gnaw upon it. The bottom of
every manger should be slatted, to let the hay seed and
dust fall through — thus averting a frequent source of
couo-h and heaves in horses.

FEEDING TROUGH AND HAY SHUTE.

To prevent waste of grain and hay, the trough and hay
manger may be made as shown in the engravings here

Fig. 3. — FEED BOX FOR OATS. Fig. 4. — HAT FEED BOX.

given. The grain box (figure 3) is fixed in the front of
the stall, a part of it projecting through the partition,
into the feed passage, where there is a lifting hinged
cover. The trough, of course, opens into the stall. In

10 FARM APPLIANCES.

the center of the trough there is an upright division,
open only for an inch or two, through which the grain
or meal slides down little by little into the front division.
The hay shute is shown at figure 4. It comes from
the floor above, where it has a hinged cover, which, if de-
sired, is left open for ventilation. It increases in width
downwards, to prevent the hay from lodging. The front
is provided with small iron bars, to prevent the horse
from pulling out the hay and thus causing loss. The
bottom should be slatted, to allow the escape of dust.

DEVICE FOR BOX STALL.

For valuable animals it is best to have loose box-stalls.
A range of such stalls can be built very cheaply, and as

Fig. 5. — FEED BOX AND HAT RACK IN BOX STALL.

the occupants need not be fastened, they can be quickly
let out of the building in case of fire. The feeding
arrangement for such stalls is shown at figure 5. It
consists of a hay-rack in the corner, with a feed box near
it. At the front of the feed box there is a falling door
in the partition, through which, when it is half let down
in a sloping position, the feed of grain, or the cut feed,
may be placed in the box. The same arrangement may
be used for the hay-rack, if the front is boarded up to
the top ; but if it is boarded only for five feet, the hay
may be lifted over the top of it from the feeding passage.

BACJiS, MAHGEJ&cs, StAH'OHlO^S, ETC.

FEED-BOX FOR EXTRA STALL.

There are times when tlie arrival of friends or other
event calls for an extra stall. To provide for such
emergencies, a feed box, and the way to use it, are shown
in the engravings, figures 6 and 7. The trough,
figure 6, is useful anywhere, it being a (C fencetrough"
or feed box. Upright pieces with mortises are made
of inch stuff, and nailed on each side of the passage-way.
Two by three-inch bars are used, entering iuto mortises
on one side and dropping into slots on the other, the
middle bar being keyed in. The upper bar is kept in

Fig. 6. — FENCE FEED BOX.

place by a swinging key put on the partition with a stout
screw, and given a little play, so that it will drop by its
own weight into its proper position. The feed box is
made as in figure 6, with elongated sides extending
through and beyond the rails or bars, with notches to re-
ceive the bars as indicated, made by nailing the pieces at
the extreme ends across from side to side, as shown.
The box being put on the lowest bar, close to the end of
it, and the middle bar being placed in position and keyed,

FARM APPLIANCES.

secures it. When the box is not in use. it is kept in the
harness closet with the two lower bars. The top bar is

Fie. 7. — stall i>~ passage-way.

generally left in place, ro prevent horses, that might get
loose, going into the carriage house.

VARIOUS CATTLE STANTHIOXS.

In the ensrraving figure 8, one of the stanchion -
shown open, and the other two closed. The pieces d. e.
f, g, and h, are immovable, a. b, c. being the movable
stanchions. The device consists of three strips, two
inches wide, and three quarter inch thick, fastened to
one upright piece by means of two bolts, d and b: the
length of the strip is regulated by the distance between
the stanchions. Bolts are also used at a and c, the bolt

BACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC.

at c passing through a small block, two inches thick,
which assists in moving the upright piece. A similar
block, e, is also placed on the movable stanchion, upon
which the block at c rests when the stanchion is closed.
The fastening/, and the piece c, are so arranged as to
fall in place at the same time. It will be seen that the
animal not only fastens herself in place, but she is doubly
secured by the pieces / and c. (The block at e may
be omitted if desired, and the device be used with the

,,--*-1 — "^Ijff]

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ft 1

|(| c
II

™ll

Fig. 8. — SELF-CLOSING CATTLE STANCHION.

fastening/ only). A badly hooked cow is often the re-
sult of careless hired men, and such carelessness is obvi-
ated by the use of the above arrangement. A cow takes
her place in the open stanchion, and in trying to get at
the feed below, presses against the lever a, brings c to
place, and closes the stanchion.

The engraving, figure 9, shows how every farmer
who uses stanchions can arrange to close all the cows in
at the same time. The two-inch strip g, is planed on all
sides, and made to move easily in the loops e, d, which
are of heavy galvanized iron, bent below so as to allow
the strip to slide, and are attached to the immovable
stanchions by screws. The hard wood pins a, b, c, ex-
tend about two inches through, so as to catch the mova-
ble stanchions. A lever is fixed at h, and attached to the
movable strip. This device is comparatively inexpensive.

FARM APPLIANCES.

and can be attached to all kinds of movable stanchions,
generally used for fastening cows. Even after it is put
on the stanchions, it need not be used unless desired. It
has the advantage in being separate from every stanchion.
One. two, or more animals may be closed in by hand and
the balance with this device. It in no way interferes

Fig. 9. — DEVICE FOR CLOSING CATTLE STAXCHIOXS.

with the necks of the cows, and saves a great many steps.
If a person reaches over in front of the cows, to close
them in by hand, he is in danger of being struck in the
face with a horn. The above device removes this dan-
ger. It is simple and cheap.

The use of permanent neck-chains, locked on around
the necks of breeding animals and young blooded stock,
affords an excellent means of fastening the animals in
their stalls. A chain and snap are attached to the stall,
by which, the snap being caught into the ring of the
neck chain, the animals are fastened. A better way is
shown in the accompanying sketch of a cow stable. Two
round stanchions are placed three feet apart for each
stall, and are the only indications of subdivisions or
gtalls in the stable. A chain about eighteen inches long

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC. 15

having a snap at one end, is attached by a ring to each
stanchion. Both chains are made fast to the ring in the
"necklace," and should have very little slack. If the
stanchions are of hard wood, and smooth, the rings will
slide easily up and down, but should not come within a

Fig. 10.— CHAIN CATTLE STANCHION.

foot of the floor. The cows will have free motion of the
head to either side, can lie down and get up easily, but
have very little motion forward and back, hence will
keep on the platform and keep clean. They are besides
kept perfectly devoted each to her own affairs, as she
cannot reach over to either neighbor, to quarrel or to
steal her forage.

The chief objection to the stanchion comes from its
rigidity and vice-like grip, and any improvement in it
should be in the direction of comfort to the animal, rath-
er than in handier ways of fastening. The accompany-
ing engraving shows how the rigid plan of the neck
latches can be in part avoided. The greatest discomfort

FARM APPLIAXCE.?.

to stock, when stanchioned, conies when lying down.
When standing, there is freedom of moTement, but when
the animal is down and attempts to rise, it is held fast.
Stanchions made as here shown, avoid this. The neck-
latches a, b, are not fastened at the bottom, but pass
through the side block c, which rests on the lower stringer.
By making this side block about eight inches shorter
than the space between the uprights d and c, a swinging
motion is obtained that gives considerable freedom. The
bolt through the neck latch a, in the upper stringer,

Fig. 11. — STA>"CHIOX FOB DAIRY COWS.

should not be screwed up snug, but leave the latch a
chance to play. It is usually the plan to set stanchions
in a perpendicular position, and if the upper stringer is
pitched over against the manger about eight inches, a
great gain is made in the ease afforded the animal when
it gets up, as its shoulder by this plan does not strike
squarely against the latches, and avoids the necessity of
"hitching back," to clear the stanchions, and thus pre-
vents the extra strain and exertion often noticed in per-
fectly rigid, and upright stanchions.

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC. 17

FEEDING CRIB FOR PORK-PRODUCING SECTIONS.

To construct the crib shown in the illustration, four
forked posts are set in the ground at the corners of a
nine foot square. In the forks are placed stout poles
and on these are laid the floor and is built the crib. The
posts make the pen high enough for the swine to pass
under it ; hence, any corn that falls through it is eaten.
The feeding floor is laid under and around the pen. In
the greatest pork producing sections, nearly all the hogs
are fattened from October 1st to January 1st, the corn

Fig. 12. — CEIB FOB FEEDING LOT.

being fed to the hogs as it is husked. In the pen shown
fifty to one hundred bushels can be thrown — enough to
feed for two or three days — when it is desired to do other
work. It is an easy matter to throw the corn from the
crib to the feeding floor, and as the corn will never re-
main in the crib longer than a week, no roof is required.
Set the posts solidly in the ground, for if the weight of
the corn should cause the crib to fall, it would kill any
fat hogs that might be under it. The hogs cannot pos-
sibly get into this crib. Eats cannot infest it. The mate-
rials exist on nearly every farm, and any farmer can make
this crib and in a short time.

18 FAKM APPLIANCES.

SHEEP EACK AND FEED-BOX.

It is often inconvenient to go among the sheep in feed-
ing them, and there is always trouble from scattering
hay or feed about the enclosure or from the animals
getting out by the open doors or gates. Figure 13
shows how to feed from outside. The boarding of the
pen for about eighteen inches in width, and about six

Fig. 13. — FEED-BOX FOR SHEEP.

inches from the floor is removed, leaving the bottom
board in place. Then upright slats are nailed across this
aperture inside the fold, allowing twenty to twenty-four
inches for each sheep. The slats should be nailed so that
an opening eight inches wide is left in the centre of this
space for the sheep to thrust their heads through. If
much narrower they will rub the wool off their necks.

A tight feed-box with flat bottom and upright sides is
made of boards, and placed on the floor outside of and
against the slats, and fastened in place. A horizontal
swing door, two feet wide and the length of the feed
trough, is attached with hinges to the outside upper edge
of the feed box. Chains keep it from falling below a

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC.

proper angle, and a button at the top secures it when
closed. The swing door will keep the hay always in
reach. With this arrangement one can feed either hay,
turnips or grain without going among the sheep, distrib-
uting it much more easily than when they are crowding
round him. He can also clean out the rack and feed box
conveniently from the outside. The sheep cannot crowd
each other when eating. When they are through eating,
or when the rack is not in use, it may be closed up, shut-
ting off drafts or keeping out dogs. It is desirable to
have such an arrangement open under ashed, building or
other protected spot, which can generally be provided.
It will be found that sheep waste much less fodder and
feed than when fed off the ground. The feed trough may *
be changed so as to come inside the fold, and the rack

Fig. 14.— BARREL RACK.

made so the sheep can put only their noses through, but
it makes the trough inconvenient to reach, and will tend
to increase the waste of hay and grain in feeding.

A BARREL RACK.

The illustration, figure 14, shows a rack for feeding hay
or straw to calves or sheep. Procure a crockery cask

FARM APPLIANCES.

and cut two thirds of the staves, making holes from
which the feed can be obtained. If calves are to feed
from it, the holes are made slightly larger than for sheep.
The animals feeding from this rack waste no food, and
the strong cannot so easily drive the weak from it, as
from the ordinary rack or manger. Lambs or calves are
disposed to fight over their food, and it may be necessary
to drive a stake about a foot from the hogshead and op-
posite the whole staves ; this will effectually prevent the
weaker ones being driven from their feed. The rack is
easily filled, and the fodder, hay or straw may be fed
from it without waste ; and if moistened bran or meal
are mixed with it, forming a complete ration, it may be
• fed in an economical manner, and be easily reached.

IMPROVEMENTS IN" PIG TROUGHS.

One of the simplest troughs is shown in figure 15. The
end pieces may be as long on one side as on the other, or

I I |

Kg. 15. — SIMPLE PIG THOUGH.

long on one side and shorter on the other, so that the
pigs cannot turn the trough over. They may have cross-
pieces fastened in strongly every two feet, to make it less
easy for the pigs to stand in the trough, and the trough
may stand in the open lot or in positions near the fence.
Where the hogs are confined in pens, a trough is set
in the pen as shown in figure 16. This is a fixture,

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC.

must be strongly made, arid be set at the bottom, on a
level with the floor of the pen. A pig of one hundred

Fig. 16. — TROUGH INSIDE OF PEN.

pounds weight cannot stand in the trough; the latter can
be cleaned out and the feed can be put into it from the

Fig. 17. — GOOD FORM OF PIG TROUGH.

outside. A good form of trough is shown in figure 17.

FARM APPLIANCES.

Here the swinging shutter keeps the pigs away from the
trough, or admits them to it, at the will of the attendant,
and the trough maybe conveniently cleaned out or filled,
without any interference by the ravenous herd. Figure
18, shows an improved shutter for the trough last de-
scribed. The improvement consists of strong bent irons

Fig, 18. — IMPROVED TROUGH WITH SHUTTER.

securely screwed or bolted to the swinging shutter on the
inside above the trough, so that a strong pig can neither
get into the trough, nor push others away, and get the
lion's share. Assuming that ground, soaked or cooked
food can only be fed out of troughs with advantage, that
pigs will eat and digest well a great deal more cooked
food than they will raw, and that the more food a pig
eats and digests the more profit there is in feeding him,
it is easy to see the importance of good pig troughs.
The engraving, figure 19, represents a good trough for

Fig. 19. — DOUBLE FEEDING TROUGH FOR PIGS.

pigs. The sides of the trough are firmly nailed to the
end boards. An upright board, which runs lengthwise

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC. 23

of the trough, divides it into two parts, and keeps the
pigs from getting into the trough. Strips, four inches
wide, nailed to the edges of the trough, divide the length
into spaces for each pig to feed in, and prevent one pig
from crowding the next one. There must always be
more spaces provided than there are pigs to feed, in order
to avoid fighting among the animals. These troughs
may be made of various lengths, according to the num-
ber of pigs to be fed.

A PLANK TROUGH.

The common V-shaped trough, as ordinarily construct-
ed, is a short-lived affair. How it may be strengthened and
made durable is shown in the engraving, figure 20. The

" wB&a

Fig. 20.— DURABLE TROUGH.

trough is made of two-inch pine planks, one six and the
other eight inches wide, the end-pieces two inches longer
than the extreme width of the trough. Side-pieces of
inch pine are nailed at each end, with the upper edge
flush and level with the top edge of the ends. A strip
of inch pine is nailed from the inside edges of the trough
to the outside edges of the end-pieces. When the upper
strips become worn, they can be quickly replaced, and
there is a hog-trongh that will stand very rough usage.
The trough should be put together with large wood
screws, as these hold better than nails. Place white lead
on the joints before fastening the trough together, to

FARM APPLIANCES.

prevent leakage. Good tar, applied hot, will answer the
same purpose. Some farmers paint the entire trough
with hot pitch or tar, which acts as a preservative.

A PROTECTED TROUGH.

Pouring the slop into a trough, with forty hogs crowd-
ing and squealing about, is behind the times. When the

Fig. 21.— DEVICE FOR FEEDING HOGS.

slop is thrown into a trough, which passes through the
fence to that from which the hogs drink, the stronger
ones will crowd together at the conducting trough and
get most of the slop. And about every other day a
new conducting trough must be made, as the hogs will
break it up in crowding for the slop. If it is made to
terminate so high that they will not do this, when the
slop is poured in, the biggest hog will get directly under
it, and the slop, striking on his head and shoulders, will
be deflected off to the ground. These evils are avoided
by having a separate pen for the trough, filling it, and
then letting the hogs in. But it costs something to have

MJ C 5

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHTOSTS, ETC. 25

an extra pen, and often the space cannot be conveniently
made use of.

This device, shown in figure 21, is a rack or screen,
made so it will revolve on pins driven through the end-
pieces and into the posts, as shown by the dotted line.
The trough should be just long enough to fit in between
the posts, where it is firmly secured. The most of the
trough projects into the hog-yard, leaving merely enough
projecting on the other side, to allow of the slop being
poured in readily. The illustration represents the frame
as it is when the pigs are feeding, and should be hooked
into place until they are through. Before pouring in the
slop, reverse the rack, so it covers the trough, the extra
weight of slats on the hog-yard side keeping it in place
until the trough is filled, when the rack is raised and
hooked into place, giving the pigs access to their food.

TROUGHS FOR THE PASTURE.

Figure 22, shows a closing trough, nailed against a
fence, that is very convenient for feeding bran, oats, corn,

Fig. 22. — FENCE TROUGH.

etc., to cows, calves, sheep and horses. The bottom is
made three inches wide, and the outer side stands away
from the other, both being set on the bottom. The end
pieces of the trough are hinged to the side next to the

FA KM APPLIANCES.

fence, and the outer side is hinged at the bottom. Strips
of leather answer for hinges. A bolt, or strap, passing
through the trough at each end allows the outer side to
come back just enough to receive the end-pieces, which
are held in place by a pin passed through a hole bored
vertically through the outer corner of each, and down
into the Wanting side. To fold the trough up, remove

Kg, 23.— A LOW THOUGH.

these pins, and fold the end-pieces inward, bring the
outer side up against these, and secure it in place with a
strap. This trough is very convenient along the side of
a shed, as it can be folded up out of the way. Another
closing trough is shown in figure 23. The triangular
end-pieces are held in place by cleats on each side. It is

Fur. 24. — coxte^est grain bin.

not necessary to fasten the sides together, but they may
be hinged at the bottom. To close the trough, the end-

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC.

pieces are taken out and laid against one side, while the
other side is closed against them. The sides are kept
from spreading apart, when the trough is open, by the
notches cut in the cross-pieces, upon which the trough
rests. These cross-pieces rest upon large blocks.

IMPROVED GRAIN BIN".

A yery convenient grain -bin is illustrated in figure 24.
The lid or top is raised as usual ; then, when desirable, the
front top board, which is hinged at the bottom, and
hooked inside at the top, is unlocked and let down.
This gives convenient access to the bin both in filling and
in emptying — enabling one to take out the last remnants
of grain or meal.

STRAW BALER.

Good, clean oat straw finds a ready market in cities for
filling beds, and other purposes. But its quality and

Fig. 25. — BOX FOR BALING STRAW.

texture are greatly impaired by baling in powerful hay
presses, and it is much better, therefore, put up by the
aid of a hand press, which preserves the fibre of the straw
unimpaired. Figure 25 shows the box and the method

if APPLIa:

of construction. The binding cords are laid cross-wise
of the box. resting upon the bottom, as seen in fignr
and the ends extending through the notches. B, B, B,
.own in figure 36. A small forkful of straw is then

Fig. 36. — MODE OF ARRA^GIXG THE COED.

placed at each end. and one in the middle, and so on,
until the box is filled and the straw packed down com-
pactly. The cords are then brought together around the
bundle and securely fastened.

WATERING TROUGHS FOB STOCK.

A good substantial water trough is an absolute neces-
on every farm, and we here give illustrations of sev-
eral useful forms. Figure 27 shows one made of planks
or boards. The sides should be of one piece, and also
the ends and bottom if possible. If made of two pieces
each, joint the edges and join them with dowel pins, using
the best white lead between the joints before driving the
pieces together snugly. The end pieces should be let into
the sides about half an inch, and both the sides and ends
should be slightly sloping, so that the form secures free-

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC.

dom from danger of bursting in winter. In putting to-
gether, always use white lead on the joints. Use no
nails, but draw the parts together with stout iron rods,
having large heads on one end and screw threads on the

Fig. 27.— A PLANK WATER TROUGH.

other. When this is done, make the bottom edge true,
coat well with white lead and securely fasten on with
large wood screws. Give the trough a couple of coats of
good paint, and when dry, the trough is ready for use.
A convenient size is as follows, all inside measurements
at the top : six feet long, fourteen to sixteen inches wide
and twelve inches deep.

This form of trough will be found useful where water
is continually running from water logs, and is designed to
prevent freezing and overflow. At one end, as in figure

Fig. 28.— WATERING TROUGH.

28, a board is fitted across the trough, and goes to
within about one inch of the bottom. The water must
flow under this to reach the outlet. This portion of the
trough has a cover with a hinge. It will be seen that

30 FARM APPLIANCES.

with this construction no straw or rubbish can get into
this covered portion to clog the outlet, and thus cause
overflow. This protection is usually sufficient in the
winter to prevent the outlet from freezing. But a plug
is inserted in the bottom of the trough, which can be
taken out when the trough needs cleaning, or in very se-
vere weather.

Farmers who have never used a covered water trough,
and who have not been able to keep the water free from
leaves and mud in summer, and to prevent the trough

Fig. 29. — COVERED WATER TROUGH.

becoming filled with snow and ice, will be glad of the
illustration (figure 29) of a covered trough, which can
be used on both sides. It should stand in the middle of
a yard, and the best way of supplying it is by a pipe car-
ried underground from a pump. It is supported on
crossed posts set in the ground and pinned together.
The trough has a central division, upon the top of
which the covers rest. When in use, the covers are let
down, and when not in use they rest upon the dividing
plank, as shown by the dotted lines, and as soon as the
stock is watered, the plug is drawn to let the water off.
This non-freezing trough should be made two feet
deep, eighteen inches wide, and fourteen feet long, and
constructed out of two-inch oak plank. Figure 30 is a
sectional side view of the trough. Over it is fitted a
double cover, with four-inch space, which extends to
within fourteen inches of the outer end. This part is

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC.

covered with a single hinged cover, which can be raised
and fastened up. The trough rests on the ground, and
a bank of earth three feet wide is raised around it even

Fig. 30. — SECTIONAL VIEW OF TKOUGH.

with the top. At the open end of the trough this bank
is eighteen inches thick, and is held up with boards as
shown in figure 30. Over all, except the open end, is
placed a layer of chaff a foot deep. On the north, west,
and south of the well and trough is a tight board fence,
one end and side of which are shown in figure 31.

Fig. 31. — THE TROUGH AND SURROUNDINGS.

Across the open end, just back of the opening in the
trough, barbed wires are stretched across to keep stock
off the well and trough. Under the end of the trough
nearest the well is placed a drain, made of fence boards,

FARM APPLIANCES.

leading to lower ground. Over this drain is a hole in the
bottom of the trough, closed by a plug, which extends
through the cover as seen in figure 30, and by which
the trough may be emptied into the drain. The trough
is filled in the morning, and the natural warmth of so
much water having so small a surface exposed, prevents
it from freezing during the day, even in the coldest
weather. At night the open end is closed. In summer
the water in this trough is always cool, and vastly supe-
rior for live stock to that standing in open troughs.

A GUARDED HORSE TROUGH.

Chickens have a way of leaving their drinking pens and
"fountains," and seeking the more abundant and fresher
water of the horse trough. It is all very well so long as

Fig. 32. — FLOATING BOABD IN HORSE TBOUGH.

the trough is overflowing, but when the water is low, they
lose their balance, fall in and drown. Figure 32 shows a
board which floats at one end in the water, and rests at
the other upon the end of the trough, being held in place
by a twenty-penny nail driven through it. The board,
being two inches narrower than the trough, floats freely,
and there are no more drowned chickens, for, if they fall
in, they can get out again unassisted.

RACKS, MANGERS, STANCHIONS, ETC.

BOX FOR WATERING PAILS.

Figure 33 shows an arrangement for keeping the pails
used for watering the horse and cow, assuming that
many keep but one or two cows or horses, and that the
water is carried to them, from being filled with snow in
winter, and from standing in the hot sun in the summer.,
This plan, as shown in the illustration, is as follows :
Have a box standing near the well pump. The size

Fig. 33.— BOX FOR WATERING PAILS.

of the box for a single pail should be about sixteen
inches square, or twenty inches would be no disadvan-
tage. Have a cover fastened on with either leather or
strap hinges; the latter "can be bought cheaply at the
hardware store, and are better than leather ones. For
two pails, the box should be two and one-half or three
feet long. In this way, the pails are always in place and
much trouble and annoyance is avoided. The best way
to arrange the cover is, to have a strip of board some two
or three inches in width to go across the top of the box,
forming part of the covering, to which the hinges can be
securely fastened. Use a smaller box in the hen-house.

HOME-MADE HEATING VAT.

Vats or tanks with wooden sides and metallic bottom,
have long been used for heating and evaporating fluids.
Figure 34 shows an improved method of construe-

34 FARM APPLIANCES.

tion, which gives greater strength and simplifies the
matter of securing water-tight joints. The sides are of
pine, two inches thick, ten inches wide, and six feet
long. The lower angles are rounded off, as shown in the
engraving. Four inches from each end grooves are cut
half an inch deep and two inches wide. Into these are
fitted and nailed two pieces of pine, two hy eight inches,
and twenty-five inches long. They are flush with the
top, leaving a space of two inches at the bottom. Two
rods of half -inch round iron, each with a head at one
end and a screw-thread and bolt at the other, are in-
serted through holes made for the purpose, near the top

Rg. 34. — TAT FOR HEATIXG WATER.

of the cross-pieces and screwed firmly in place. The
bottom is of galvanized iron, seven feet eight inches long
and twenty-eight inches wide. This is fastened by a
double row of three-penny nails to the lower edge of the
side pieces, extending around the curves to the top. If
desired, it may be cut long enough to turn over at the
top, and nailed to the upper edge of the wooden cross-
pieces. This would give sufficient strength without the
iron brace-rods. This vat is set upon an arch of brick or
stone two feet wide, so that the wooden sides will project
over it. For scalding hogs, a scraping bench is erected
close to one side of the vat, and level with the top.

CHAPTER II.

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS AND MARKERS.

A CART FOR BREAKING COLTS.

Most colts, if taken young enough, and gently, though
firmly handled, can be driven as soon as they can be
made to know what is wanted of them. Now and then
a spirited fellow feels his oats, or is very nervous about
the harness, and still more about the wagon, or cart, and
rears, and kicks, and pulls side-ways, trips himself up,
and goes down in spite our best efforts to prevent it.
For such a good, strong breaking-rig is essential. The
cart, figure 35, is home-made, except the wheels; for these
a pair of strong wagon wheels — either front or hind —
will do. The shafts are a pair of seasoned hickory poles,
extending about two feet behind the wheels. They are
bolted upon the axle-tree, and underneath these is a
lighter pair of poles, attached to the shaft in front, and
bolted also to the axle-tree by the same clamps that are
used to hold the shafts. These extend back as braces,
and are mortised into pieces, which are themselves mor-
tised into the shaft-poles near the end. The object of
this arrangement is to keep a colt from rearing. The
ends of these pieces will bear upon the ground, the mo-
ment he lifts himself up. The same resnlt would be ac-
complished by having the poles extend far out behind,
but this makes turning exceedingly awkward, so that rigs
of this kind can only be comfortably used in an open lot.
The box, or body of the vehicle, is made with reference to
strength, so that it cannot easily be kicked to pieces, nor
broken by overturning or being run away with. A strong
plank is bolted to the poles in front ; uprights, and
(35)

FARM APPLIANCES.

cross-boards of three-quarter-inch spruce, form the dash-
board, which is well braced. The back and seat are
similarly attached. It is important that the seat should

be so placed that the driver may at will throw his full
weight forward, to bring the bearing of the shafts upon
the saddle, or backward, to lift up on the girth or belly-

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS AND MARKERS. 37

band. The harness should always be sufficiently strong,
and before using the breaking-cart, the colt must be Well
harness-broken.

A HOME-MADE CART.

Figure 36 shows a serviceable farm cart, which can
be made by any one who understands the use of a saw and
hammer. The sides of the box, which is six feet long and
four feet wide, are of plank a foot wide, the bottom of
inch boards ; the end-board is fastened with hooks, so
that it can be readily removed when loading the cart.

Fig. 36. — HOME-MADE CART.

The wheels are those of an old, worn-out reaper, and the
axle consists of a piece of gas-pipe, large enough to fit the
hub of the wheels. Pins put in holes drilled through the
ends of the axle, keep the wheels in their places. The
axle is fastened to the wagon by wooden blocks, hollowed
out to proper shape ; these blocks are firmly screwed
to the side-pieces. The thills pass through the front
board and are bolted to the sides of the box. A. single-
tree is fastened to a cross-piece bolted to the thills close
to the box. Such a cart is very convenient on every
farm, and being low, it is easily loaded.

FARM APPLIANCES.

APPARATUS FOR LIFTING A WAGON-BODY.

To lift a heavy wagon-body from its truck is tedious
work, if to be done by main force only. The use of pul-
leys facilitates the operation materially, but not as much
as the apparatus shown in figure 37. It is simple,
very convenient, and may be easily made by any farmer
handy with tools. I, in the engraving, is a wooden rol-
ler, about three inches in diameter, and resting on the

Fig. 37.— APPABATCS FOB HOISTING A WAGON-BODY.

joists a, which are over the wagon in its shed, d is a
rope which winds around the roller, and is fastened at
its lower end to the cross-piece e. Through each end
of the cross-piece passes a half -inch round iron bar, /,
with bar on top of e. The lower ends terminate with
square bends of three inches, which hook under the box,
and when turned half round will slip off, and may
be hoisted up and put out of the way. The handles, c,
are four feet long and are mortised into the roller. A
man or boy standing on the ground can turn the handles

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HaHROWS AND MARKERS.

with ease, and raise the box from its bed in half the time
four men could do it by hand.

JACK FOR WAGON BOX.

A cheap method of removing a wagon box is shown in
figure 38. A platform to receive the box is made by ,
driving stout stakes into the ground and nailing cross-
pieces to them. The platform should be as high as the
top of the wagon standards. The lifter consists of a
stout piece of timber, which will reach two feet above
the wagon box, the top rounded, and a pin, driven into it,
which passes through a slot in the lever. Two chains, pro-
vided with hooks, are fastened at the short end of the
lever, and a rope at the other. One arm of the lever is

Fig. 38.— JACK FOR WAGON BOX.

three feet long, and the other nine feet. The wagon is
driven close against the side of the platform. The lifter
is placed, as shown in the engraving, on a line midway
between the wagon and the platform. The hooks on
the end of the chains are caught under the box, or the
rod which passes through the rear end of the box, and
by pulling on the rope, the box is easily lifted out and
swung around on the platform. Then lift the front
end over. The jack can be used to return the box to the
wagon. The pieces need not be large, and when made of
seasoned wood, the jack is easily handled.

FARM APPLIANCES.

SERVICEABLE WAGOX-JACKS.

Take a scantling two and a half feet long, one inch
thick, two and a half inches wide; rip it with a saw from
top, to within five or six inches of the bottom, like a

Fig. 39.— WAGOX-JACK.

tuning fork, figure 39. One prong is the lever, saw the
other prong off at top, one inch higher than the bottom
of the hind axle ; then saw it off at the shoulder five or
six inches from bottom ; fasten it on again with a hinge
exactly where it was sawed off, and it is ready for use.

Fig. 40.— HOME-MADE "WAGON-JACK.

Set it under the axle, lowering the lever enough to allow
it to go there ; then raise the lever past the balance,
and it will go together of its own weight, and stay there.
At the left of the engraving it is seen as lowered, at

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS AND MARKERS. 41

the right as raised. This jack is very cheaply made,
and varies in dimensions according to the weights to he
raised. In the one shown in figure 40, the lever a
is made of one-inch stuff, and the post b and the
bearing-piece c of two and a half by two and a half. The
latter two are slotted to admit of the lever working freely
in them. The bearing-piece is held to the lever with
an iron or a wooden pin, a little behind the post or ful-
crum, so that when in use the jack will support the wagon
without any other fastening.

ADJUSTABLE WAGON" SEAT.

A six-inch board has slots cut in each end, so as to go
between the stakes of the wagon.
Another board, one foot wide and
three feet long, is fastened to the
first in the position shown in the
engraving, figure 41. An old
seat, from a harvester or mower,
is fastened upon the boards, when
an easy and satisfactory seat is
Fig. 41.— a wagon seat, provided for a v\ agon when in use
or purposes of drawing wood, lumber, etc.

LUBRICATING AXLES.

Many lubricate axles only to prevent wear ; they over-
look the fact that by reducing the friction they lessen the
draft. A well-oiled axle lightens the load. Oil to axles
is best governed by the rule of "little and often." If
too much is used it exudes at the ends, gathers dust, and
thus the lessening of the friction is not so great, while
oil is wasted. In nearly every case where the lubricant

42 EARM APPLIANCES.

is wasted it is because it is stuff not fit to be used, for a
good lubricator costs enough to keep the average man
from allowing it to waste. Oil that "gums" much is
unfit to be used. Castor oil is a splendid lubricator for
axles, but used alone may gum too much. This is cor-
rected by the addition of refined coal-oil (that used for
lamps), or lard ; the coal-oil is the better. Some wagons
are yet made unprovided with metal shields- or ''thim-
bles," being banded with steel ; for these some tallow may
be used, as it is one of the best of lubricants when iron
and wood are brought together. Pine-tar is a good addi-
tion to the lubricant for wagon axles, and is a part of
most of the " axle greases " sold. Plumbago is another
good addition ; its fine particles fill the small irregulari-
ties in the opposing surfaces, thus making them smooth-
er. A mixture of lard and plumbago is good for the
journals of reapers, mowers, etc. ; we have found castor
oil and refined coal oil also good for this use, particularly
for use on the " sickle-driver." For carriages nothing is
better than castor oil and a very little lard oil or refined
coal oil. Lard oil alone has not " body" enough for the
journals of reapers, mowers, etc. ; add a little castor oil,
or tallow or plumbago. While the axles of reapers, grain-
Irills, hay-rakes, etc., will not need lubricating so often
during the year as the axles of the wagon, oiling them
must not be neglected, as the rough ground the wheels
pass over makes the wear on unoiled axles quite rapid.
The axles of corn-cultivators require frequent lubricating.
For these the best lubricants are those recommended for
wagon axles.

A LIGHT SLEIGH OR " JUMPER. "

A light sleigh may be made of hard-wood poles cut and
bent into shape, a few bolts,- and a light body or box.
Figures 4.2 and 43, made from sketches of a recently

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS AND MARKERS. 43

constructed "jumper," will serve as a guide to any one
who wishes to provide himself a light sleigh at a trifling
cost. Two hickory poles, for the runners, are dressed
down, and the small ends bent to the proper curve and
fastened until they will retain the bent shape. The posts
are mortised into these runners and the bench pieces,
which latter are firmly fastened together with bolts. The
braces and their positions are shown in the engravings.

REAR VIEW OF JUMPER.

A floor is laid upon the bench pieces, and extends beyond
the sides of the box or body. The box may be plain or
ornamented in various ways. The one shown in the en-
graving has the sides and back flariug. The shafts are
fastened to the curved end of the runners with eve-bolts.

A SUBSTANTIAL SLED.

Figure 44 shows a sled which is principally used
in the pineries of Michigan, where a single team will
draw on it from two to five thousand feet of lumber in
the log. Special roads are kept open to accommodate
these broad-track sleds, and when a load of a dozen or

FARM APPLIANCES.

more logs is under way, it would be perilous for auy
who should venture to block the road.

Figure 44 shows the general construction of the sled.
The bunks, a, a, are eight by ten inches and ten feet in
length; the sway bars b, b, are four by four inches ; the
reach, c, is ten feet between the bunks, the beams, d, d,

Fig. 44.— MICHIGAN SLED.

are ten by twelve inches, and the track is four feet eight
inches long.

The particular feature of this sled is the concaves, x,x,
made in the beam, F, which fit two convexes in the
block, E, as shown in figure 45. These taper from the
top to the bottom, fitting snugly at the bottom, and open
one-sixth of an inch on each side at the top. By this

Fig. 45.— SLED KTJNNEB.

means slight play is allowed to the runners, which eases
the motion considerably on rough ground. A, in figure
45, shows one of the steel shoes which are four by five-
eighth inches; the runners, B, are four by six inches, and
four feet long ; the blocks, C, are four by twelve inches,
and three feet in length. The iron plates are shown at D,
the bolts at G ; the beam, which is ten by twelve inches,
at F.

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS AND MARKERS. 45

A DUMP-SLED.

A method of constructing a dump-sled for hauling
manure, earth and other substances, is shown in fig-
ure 46, and it will be appreciated by many northern

Fig. 46. — A SLED AKBANGED FOB DUMPING.

farmers. The front bob of a double sled has the
framework raised by means of a trestle, and upon this the
box is secured by eye-bolts, and a staple and pin.

A TRIPLE LAND ROLLER.

A great objection to the use of the roller is, that it
tears up the ground for a considerable space when it is
turned around. Another is, that the weight of the tongue
and frame bears heavily upon the necks of the horses,
and often causes sores. The roller shown in figure 47
has neither of these objections. It is made in three sec-
tions, and the hinder section balances the weight of the
frame and tongue. In turning, the whole implement
moves easily with the side roller as a pivot, and avoids all
disturbance of the soil. The center roller is made a
little longer than the side ones, and thus secures the
complete pulverization of the soil. The rollers are easily
made, either of solid logs, or of round discs, to which

46 FARM APPLIANCE.-.

narrow bars are spiked. The best roller is the heaviest,
and cast iron is the best material ; although much cheap-
er ones may be made of artificial stone molded in
wooden cylinders. The material may be mixed as fol-
lows : One barrel of good hydraulic cement is well mixed
dry with three barrels of coarse, sharp sand. A sufficient
quantity of the mixed cement and sand for one section is
then wetted and worked up into a thin mortar, aud is at
once put into the mold ; broken stone, first wetted, may

Fig. 47.— A TRIPLE LA>T> ROLLER.

be worked into the center, around a square shaft of oak
timber, carefully centered. The whole is well rammed
down, and more is added aud rammed as it is put in, un-
til the mold is filled. The ends of the roller should be
of clear cement and sand for a few inches, only the inte-
rior being filled in with stone for the sake of economy
and for weight as well. When the mass is dry and solid,
the mold is taken apart. Wing gudgeons are fitted into
the oak shaft. They run in wooden boxes, bolted to the
under side of the frame. , In this way a most excellent
and useful roller, equal to a cast iron one and quite as
durable, may be mad:- for a cash outlay of about three
dollars only.

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS AND MARKERS. 47
A CHEAPER TRIPLE ROLLER.

Figure 48 shows a much simpler form of triple farm
roller, made chiefly of wood. It is in three sections,
each about two feet long, such a one being much
, easier on the team than when made solid or in merely
two sections. A good oak or maple log, as nearly cylin-
drical as possible for ten or twelve feet, can be cut in the
woods, the bark peeled off, and the log sunk under water
for several weeks, when it is to be dried out under cover.

Fig. 48. — FARM ROLLER.

If seasoned with the bark on, the worms are apt to work
on it. Saw off the pieces the required length, strike a
center and work them to a uniform size, and then bore
holes for the journals. The best way is to have a pump-
maker bore entirely through the pieces an inch and three-
quarter hole. Then hang them on a round bar of iron or
steel, an inch and a half in diameter, as a loose spindle.
The brace-irons can be made of stout old tire by the near-
est blacksmith, and four of them, securely bolted 'into
place, will be sufficient. Keep under cover when not in
use.

A DOUBLE LAND ROLLER.

The cheap home-made roller shown in figure 49 con-
sists of two sections of a round log, dressed smooth,
and fitted in a frame. The frame is made of four by

FARM APPLIANCES.

four oak, bolted together firmly. The logs are each
eighteen inches in diameter, and three and one-half feet
long, one being set three inches ahead of the other in the
frame. The pins for the rollers are one and a quarter
inch thick, round for four inches at one end, and square

Fig. 49.— A HOME-MADE BOLXEB.

for twelve inches ; this end is pointed, and is driven into
an inch hole, bored in the end of the log. The tongue is
braced with strong iron braces, and a seat may be fitted
partly over the rear of the frame, and balance the weight
of the tongue, and relieve the horses' necks.

STALK LEVELER.

The frame, figure 50, is of two pieces six inches wide
and two inches thick. They are joined together with

Fig. 50.— STALK LETELEB.

pieces of old wagon tire, which has been straightened out,
and two holes punched or drilled in each end, to hold the
spikes. The front ends of this tire-iron are bent or
curved, to hold the chain to which the horses are at-
tached. By using this contrivance when the stalks are
stiff and hard with frost, they will break off clear and

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS AND MARKERS. 49

clean near to the ground, and can then be gathered up
and burned, or made into manure.

USEFUL CLOD CRUSHER.

The illustrations, figures 51 to 53, present different views
of a home-made implement to be used as a clod crusher

Fig. 51. — CLOD CRUSHER IN OPERATION.

or for other purposes. The runners are of oak plank,
two inches thick, six feet long and eight inches wide,
each rounded off at one end, and notched on the upper
edge, as shown in the engravings. The cross-pieces are
of similar material, three feet long and seven inches
wide, spiked in place. The outer edges of the cross-

Fig. 52. — BOTTOM OF CLOD CRUSHER.

pieces are faced with band-iron. A staple with ring is
driven from the inside of each runner, near the front,
and the chain by which it is drawn is run through the
ring. In this form it serves a very good purpose as a

50 FARM APPLIANCES.

clod crusher. If additional weight is desired, large stones
may be placed between the runners.

To fit it for use as a sled, it is inverted, a box of inch
boards made five feet ten inches long, three feet broad,
and nine inches deep. The lower edges of the side-
boards are notched to fit the projections of the cross-
pieces. Inch boards are nailed across the bottom to close
the spaces between the latter. Staples are driven into

Fig. 53. — CLOD CBUSHEK AND SLED.

the sides of the runners to -receive hickory stakes, which
hold the box in place. For use in winter the thills
are attached by iron straps bolted on, as shown in figure
53. When the runners become worn, the bottoms are
planed off and strips of oak pinned on. The box may be
replaced by a rack for drawing hay or other bulky stuff.

A BRUSH HARROW.

For the cultivation of various kinds of crops, one of
the most useful implements made on the farm, and one
which properly constructed, lasts a lifetime, is a smoothing
and brush harrow, figure 54. It should be made of
rather heavy stuff, so that the weight, as it is dragged
along, will be sufficient to break the lumps and level the
soil. This harrow can be used with good effect in cover-

VEHICLES, HOLLERS, HARROWS AND MARKERS. 51

ing newly planted seed, and in all cases where a disc or
tooth harrow would be too heavy or wide-spread, a brush

Fig. 54.— BKTJSH HARROW.

harrow, like that herewith represented, will be found to
be a good substitute.

AN" IMPROVED HARROW FRAME.

Figure 55 shows a very cheap and excellent har-
row frame intended for grass seeding ; also for working

Fig. 55.— IMPROVED HARROW FRAME,

FARM APPLIANCES.

corn and potato land while the crop is young and small.
For this purpose, a harrow should be light, broad, hare
a large number of fine teeth sloping backward, and should
be so arranged that it will draw level and not lift at the
front. The owner and inventor of this harrow claims
that he has secured all these. The special point of this
harrow is the hitching device. This consists of a hooked
bar which works in two stirrups, one to draw by and the
other to permit the draw-bar or chain to rise and fall, as
the harrow passes over the ground that is not quite level.
This is an important end tb secure. The harrow is not
patented, and any farmer is free to make one.

LAND-MARKERS.

Figure 56 represents a one-horse land-marker, such as
is used among the gravel and cobblestone soils of some

Fig. 56.— LA>T>MARKEE COMPLETE.

sections, where it does good service. The lumber should
be of well seasoned oak ; the long rails, two by three
stuff in pairs; the cross-bar and end pieces the same ; the
cross bars, in which the teeth are set, three by three
inches square : the thills one and a half by two inches at

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS AKD MARKERS. 53

the large ends and tapering beyond the braces. The
handles are common straight plow handles, that is, bent
only at the grip. Three-eighths bolts are large enough
for the frame.

The center tooth should be permanently framed in, the
outside teeth being adjustable, work in the slot between

Fig. 57.— END VIEW OF LAND-MARKER.

the long rails, and are held in place by two three-eighths
iron pins. They can be moved so as to mark from two
feet six to five feet. The rails should have seven-six-
teenth holes bored through them every three inches,
commencing at two feet six from center of middle tooth.
For shares use old points of shovel plows. The whiffle-
tree is held by a bolt which passes through the center
cross-bar.

Figure 56 shows the adjustment of the teeth, one being
set at two feet six, the other four feet, also the position
of the thills, the whiffletree, the handles. The cross-rail
tenons at ends should fit in the end of slots and be bolted
1

■ymr

fb*

Fig. 58. — MOVABLE TOOTH OF LAND-MARKER.

fast with three-eighths bolts. The braces on thills and
handles are of iron, a quarter of an inch thick and an inch
wide, held by quarter-inch bolts. Figure 57 is an end

54 FABM APPLIANCES.

view, showing the pitch of handles and thills, a tooth
also, and the mode of fastening the same. Figure 58
shows one end of the pair of long rails which form the
slot for a movable tooth ; also the shape of share. This

Fig. 59.— A HORSE LA>T>-MAKKER.

implement is not patented, and can be made by any one
with common tools and knowledge and ingenuity enough
to use them.

Figure 59 shows a marker with plank runners, so sim-
ple in its construction and so clearly shown in the en-
graving that no description is needed.

Figure 60 shows an excellent marker for " check-
ing" corn ground. The runners are of hard-wood plank
two by six inches, and four feet long. They are usually
placed three feet ten inches apart. The cross-pieces, of
two by four inch stuff, are laid on top of the runners, and
fastened in place with square pieces ; or better yet, let into
the runners. Pieces of two by four inch stuff run diag-
onally from the rear corners and meet in front, forming
bases of attachment for the pole tongue. Bows of pieces
of hoop-poles are fastened in these, through which the
rear end of the tongue passes. This is much superior to

VEHICLES, ROLLERS, HARROWS A.ND MARKERS. 55

bolting the tongue across the top of the marker, for then
every irregularity in the walk of the horses is communi-
cated to the marker, making short crooks in the checks ;
and where the marker dips in a depression, its weight is

Fig. 60. — serviceable: marker.

thrown on the horses' necks. When the tongue is at-
tached, as shown in the cut, no short crooks are made in
the checks, there is neither lateral or horizontal strain on
the horses' shoulders, while the hoops make the marker
manageable in crossing deep furrows, etc. The tongue
is held in place by a round iron bolt passing through it
and the end of the diagonals. The double trees are fas-
tened just in front of this point of attachment. The
driver stands on the two boards on the rear center of the
marker.

COMBINED MARKER AND CLOD-CRUSHER.

In figure 61 is a very clear illustration of a useful
marker and clod-crusher, which is made as follows :

Fig. 61. — COMBINED MARKER AJNTO CLOD CRUSHER.

Three runners are provided, four feet long, eight inches
wide and two inches thick ; four two-inch planks of
strong, hard wood, eight feet long and eight inches wide,

56 FARM APPLIANCES.

are let into the runners four and one-half inches deep ;
these slope from top to bottom edge backwards, forty-five
degrees, so as to draw over the rough ground, and break
clods by pressing on them. These runners are let into
the cross-pieces one inch, and are fastened together by
large screws. A strip of two by four is halved down on
the runners in the front, for a draw-bar. The tongue is
fitted with hooks, which are attached to rings on the
draw-bar, so that it can be removed when the sled is
turned over to be used as a clod-crusher.

A LAND LEVELER.

For preparing land for grass seeding, or for corn-plant-
ing, the three plank leveler and clod-crusher is useful.

Fisr. 62. — land leveleb.

The planks are held together by a chain, and both with
large washers, which pass through links. If short pieces
of heavy chain are fastened to the holes in the rear plank
they will mark sufficiently plain for corn or potato
plantiug.

CHAPTER III.

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.
BAG HOLDERS.

There is an endless variety of devices for holding a bag
upright, with the mouth open. One of the simplest,
figure 63, consists of a piece of hickory or white oak
bent into a half-circle, and the ends passed through a

Fig. 63.— CHEAP BAG HOLDER.

somewhat larger rod of the same kind of wood, and
wedged fast. A screw is driven into each end of the rod,
and filed to a point. To use it, the mouth of the bag
is put through the half circle, and the edge is turned
down over the holder, and over the sharp points, which
hold it firmly. The bag is then held while it is filled, or
it may be hung upon two hooks, or the holder may be
fitted in a frame on a stand, so that one can use it with-
out any help to hold the bags.

A very good form is shown in figure 64 for farmers who
sack their grain in the granary, one side of the room
being used as a passage-way. It is swung by staples to
the posts, and can be changed readily from one post to
another by having staples arranged in each post. Three-
quarter inch round iron is used, all in one piece, the rod
(57)

FARM APPLIANCES.

being bent or welded to make the circular shaped open-
ing for the hopper. The hopper is made of common
sheet iron, funnel-shaped, turned and wired on the upper

Fig. 64. — GRANART BAG HOLDER.

side to add to its strength and to reduce the sharpness
of the edge. Four small hooks can be riveted to the
hopper, to attach the sack when filling it. When not
in use, the holder can be swung back out of the way. If
desired, the hopper can be permanently attached to the
iron rim or holder by a couple of small rivets passing

Fig. 65.— A BETTER BAG HOLDER.

through both. This will prevent the hopper from being
displaced by the weight of the bag.
The holder illustrated in figure 65, has the advantage

SMALL TOOLS AND AP^LlAKOE.S,

of being built almost wholly of wood, and can bo made
by any ingenious farmer. It can also be adjusted to vari-
ous heights by moving it up or clown a notch. The back
is of inch board, about one foot wide and of any desired
length, from fifteen to thirty inches. The arms are an
inch thick and an inch and a half wide, fastened by
screws into the notches in the back and supported by
wire rods which may be held by screws through the flat-
tened ends, or may pass through the back and arms and
clinch. The cross-piece is of tough wood, three-fourths

Fig. 66. — PORTABLE SACK HOLDER.

of an inch square. For holding the bag there is one
hook on the back. piece, two on each arm, and one under
the cross-piece. The whole is supported on two strong
spikes driven into the wall of the barn or other building,
and projecting far enough to fit the notches on the side.
The bag hblder shown at figure 66, is portable and may
be taken wherever it is to be used. The sack to be filled
is brought up inside of the frame and turned over and
hooked on the underside of it. The hooks are put here
because they are not in the way and the sack is not torn
by the weight of the grain, as would be the case if the

60 ?Ai;>f APPLIANCES.

hooks were put on the top of the frame. The frame
must be somewhat smaller than the sack. The sack can
be filled to the top of the frame, as the part drawn over
will be enough to tie by. The material used is inch stuff.
The length of the legs must be such that when the sack
is put on the hooks the bottom will rest on the floor.

Another form of portable holder, shown in figure 67,
is so compact and light that it can be. carried into the

Tig. 67. — A SIMPLE BAG HOLDEB.

field if desired. The apparatus consists simply of three
light poles about six feet long.. and loosely fastened to-
gether at one end with a small carriage bolt, and three
screw-hooks at the proper height for holding the bag
when stretched out, as seen in the illustration.

HANDLING POTATOES.

Potatoes are best stored in a dry, cool cellar, where the
temperature can be kept by ventilation at about forty de-
grees. The floor should be of planks, raised three inches
from the ground, and laid with one-inch spaces between
them for ventilation. The bins should be about eight

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

feet long, four feet wide and deep, made of loose-barred
partitions (figure 68), wired together at the corners. A
bin of this size will hold one hundred bushels, and with
such a one it is very easy to know precisely how much the
crop amounts to.

The box shown at figure 69 will be found a great con-
venience in gathering and storing the potatoes. It is
made eighteen inches long, fifteen inches deep in the
clear at the sides, and ten inches wide, all inside measure-
ments ; thus holding two thousand and seven hundred

Fig. 68.— PANEL OF POTATO BIN. Fig. 69.— SLATTED BOX FOR POTATOES.

cubic inches, or thirteen cubic inches (about two good-
sized potatoes) over a heaped bushel, which is two thou-
sand and six hundred and eighty-seven inches. These
boxes can be set one upon another, and then have a space
left between the potatoes, and are thus well adapted for
use in storing a part of the crop, or a small quantity for
domestic use. The barred sides and bottom secure abun-
dant ventilation. The bins in the cellar should have a
space of four inches between the end and the wall, and
between the sides ; this is easily made by placing a short
rail between them, or a piece of four by four scantling,
and this will relieve the sides from the bulging pressure
of the potatoes. It is advisable to have a well-built root
cellar, or a cellar under the barn, for storing potatoes ;
a house cellar should never be used for this purpose.

62 FABM APPLIANCES.

GBJXDSTOXES AXD FRAMES.

A grindstone, to do good service, should be at least
three feet in diameter and two and one-half to three
inches in thickness, having a bevel on each side of the
face for grinding on. It should be quite free from hard
spots of iron pyrites, which are injurious to tools, al-
though they may be taken out with a sharp-pointed
punch. If it is not centered truly it will work out of
shape and soon require trueing up. It should run as fast

Fig. 70. — GBDTDSTOXE SET.

as possible, as it does its work better and more quickly.
To prevent it from throwing water, a piece of bagging
should be fastened to a staple fixed across the frame on
each end (as shown in figure TO), but not so close as
to grind it out ; this will catch the excess of water and
yet keep the stone wet enough and clean it. The stone
should be kept in the shade and never in water, which
softens it and makes one side wear faster than the other.
The water box should have a hole in it to let out the
water and keep the stone dry when not in use. In grind-
ing, it should mostly turn from the tool, and if used
otherwise, great care should be taken by the one who
holds the tool, not to gouge the stone.

Figure Tl shows a novel style of frame for a grind-
stone. The frame proper consists of the iron part or
bearing of a reaper reel. The arms to which the reel

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

sticks were fastened, are all broken off but one. To this
one the crank is bolted, as seen in figure 71. Four holes
are drilled through the rim of the reel-wheel, to which

Fig. 71. — GRINDSTONE FRAME.

is bolted a hard wood board one inch thick, and having
a square hole half way through, in which the center
block fits. A bolt passes through a board block to a
strip of iron, which may be bent to form a crank for

Fig. 72.— cross-section. Fig. 73.— center block.

foot-power. A cross-section of the stone as hung is
shown in figure 72 ; the center block and board to which
it is fastened are seen in figure 73. This frame should
be bolted to a post or tree.

FARM APPLIANCES.

TOOL HOLDER.

Many a boy, and his father as well, who has toiled over
the grindstone to sharpen tools, will be pleased with the
device shown in figure 74, for giving a smooth, even edge
to tools, which can be held by the hands, while the stone
is turned by a treadle or a horse-power. It is a triangle of
wooden bars, put together as shown, having a sharp pin
at the point, a clamp for holding the tool at the center,
and holes at the sides for tying an axle helve with cords,
to keep it firm. The grindstone is near a wall or a post,

Fig. 74. — TOOL HOLDER.

Fig. 75.— DAMAGED AND
REPAIRED GRIND6TONE.

and the pin is pushed into this to hold the frame. The
frame is then held in its proper position by the hands, and
if held firmly, will grind an even bevel on any tool. A
scythe, or a cutting-bar of a mower or reaper, or a chisel,
can thus be ground perfectly and with little labor.

HOW TO REPAIR A GRINDSTONE.

Usually a grindstone is worn out of level, and very
irregularly. This is scarcely to be avoided when such a
large variety of tools, including scythes, mower sections,
axes, hoes, and many other tools are ground. After or-
dinary use, those who are not careful to preserve the stone

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 65

true, with smooth and slightly rounded face, the stone
appears as at a, in figure 75. It is then beyond the
power of the owner to repair the damage, unless he is an
expert mechanic, when he takes a piece of old stove-
plate and grinds the stone down to a slightly rounded or
beveled face, like that shown at b. The best way to do
this is to take a spade or a shovel, and turning it back
upwards, to grind it sharp against the turning of the
stone. This will bring the stone into the right shape,
and in sharpening the spade, do a useful job at the same
time.

A WOODEN MANGER FORK.

The common method of pitching fodder into mangers
with a steel-tined fork, is often accompanied with harm

Fig. 76.— A MANGER FORK.

to animals. They will crowd around the rack or man-
ger, and frequently receive an accidental thrust in the
head or body with the sharp fork. Not infrequently an
eye is lost, and with a horse this is a serious matter.
The wooden manger fork shown in figure 76 avoids
this danger. It is made of a piece of hickory or oak six
feet long, an inch and a half wide, and an inch thick.
Four feet of its length is shaped round for a handle.
The other end is sawed or split into three equal parts, to
within a few inches of the rounded portion, where an
iron band is placed. The " lines" are spread apart, and
held in position by a wooden brace placed between them.

FAKM APPLIANCES.

The tines are rounded, smoothed, and slightly sharpened
at their points.

HOME-MADE AND USEFUL CHAFF FOKKS.
S

Figure 77 represents a home-made fork with tines
about two feet long, and having a spread of twenty
inches. The teeth are straight above, and curved towards
the point. They are fastened by screws to the three-inch

Fig. 77.— LABGE CHAFF FORK. Fig. 78.— SIMPLE CHAFF FORK.

hard-wood head, and strengthened by an iron rod near
the head, and by a round wooden rod, which passes
through them and to which they are tacked fast. The
head is strengthened by a similar piece of oak or ash, half
an inch thick, screwed upon its edge, and through which
the handle passes. This is of ash or hickory, large
enough around to give the hand a good hold, and is fas-
tened by wiring to the top side of the head. Such a
fork may be made quite light, and the six tines being

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

only four inches apart, will handle either chaff or
light straw to good advantage. We give, by way of
comparison, a simple chaff fork, figure 78, made by
first binding and then carefully splitting a single piece
of hickory or ash, handles and tines being formed of the
same stick. A ring-ferule or band of wire is placed at
the point beyond which the splits may not go, and after
the splits are made, the tines are spread apart by wedge-
shaped pieces of wood. These forks are easily made and
are the very best stable forks that can be used. There
is no danger of pricking horses or cattle with them, and
if one be carelessly left in the stable, or falls down,
neither man nor beast is likely to be hurt.

STABLE SCRAPER AND BROOM.

The manure gutter is easily cleaned out with the scraper
and broom shown below. The scraper, figure 79, is made

Fig. 80.

to fit the width of the gutter, and brings the manure to
the trap-door. The broom, figure 80, is then used to
sweep the waste matter from the iloors into the gutter,

68 FARM APPLIANCES.

and from the gutters into the trap-doors, leaving the
floor clean and clear for a new supply of litter.

A STRAW OR HAT HOOK.

A convenient hook for pulling straw or hay out of a
stack for distribution among sheep or cattle, is shown in
figure 81. It consists of a stout pole pointed at one end ;
a slit is cut through it and a hook is pivoted as shown in

Fig. 81. — STRAW OR HAT HOOK.

the engraving, so that it will be pushed back when it is
thrust into the stack, and drawn forward, when it is
pulled out. A strong cord helps to strengthen the hook,
When the hook is pulled out of the stack, it brings a
quantity of straw or hay with it.

FORK FOR HANDLING STONES.

The fork, figure 82, for lifting stones will prevent many,
a back-ache. It should have four prongs, which are

Fig. 82.

curved so as to hold the stones, and a strong handle. By
a knack in giving a quick jerk, a heavy stone can be
lifted and thrown into a wagon, and without stooping.
Having used one of these contrivances to pick up stones,
we can speak with knowledge of its usefulness. It is

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

made of prongs of horse-shoe iron, welded to a heavier
cross-bar, which has two strong straps to receive the
handle.

SALT BOX FOR STOCK.

Salt should be given regularly to horses, cattle, and
sheep, but it is rarely so given, because a supply is not
kept handy for use. The box shown in figure 83 may

Fig. 83.

be hung in a stable or shed, or to a tree or post in the
pasture. The salt is protected from the rain, and if re-
plenished when necessary, the stock will be supplied
with it regularly.

SAFETY SINGLE-TREE.

In plowing among fruit trees or in corn, single-trees
having the traces arranged the usual way, will do much
injury to the trees or corn. There is a method in ar-
ranging the traces which will avoid all this, as can be
seen in the illustration, figure 8-4. A knot is made on

FARM APPLIANCES.

the end of the trace rope, when the rope is passed through
the hole made for the purpose, and brought around in
the grooved end of the single-tree. To prevent the rope
from getting out of place, it is wired or tied with strong
cord. If the tree is struck by the end of the single-tree,
thus guarded, it slides off without doing much injury.
If the trees are young and small, with smooth and tender

Fig. 84.— SAFETY SINGLE-TREE.

bark, it is well to wrap the end of the traces, for about
eighteen inches from the single-tree, withhold cloth, to
prevent the rough, twisted rope from chafing the trees.
Always use a shorter single-tree in plowing and cul-
tivating an orchard than in ordinary plowing, and also
use a small horse or mule to do the work, as this allows
of more thorough work, and with less liability of injury
to the low branches or the trunks of the trees.

ROOT PULPERS AND CUTTERS.

Those who feed beets, turnips, carrots and other roots,
find it necessary to reduce them
by some cheaper method than cut-
ting by hand with a knife. An
excellent machine for pulping
roots is shown in figure 85. It
may be made by any carpenter in
two days, at a cost of about six

dollars. The plan of the machine
Fig. 85,-root pulper. ig given ifl the eBgraving< it is

simply a square or oblong box, with a spiked cylinder

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

fitted in it, the cylinder having a square gudgeon at one
end, to which a handle is fitted. To save expense the
heavy wheel and handle attached, of a fodder cutter, may
be taken off and used on the root pulper, as the two
will rarely be used at the same time. The cylinder is
closely studded with sharp, chisel-pointed spikes. These
teeth are made of one-quarter inch square bar iron,
and are three inches long; the sharp edges are worked
out on an anvil, and are chilled by immersion in

Fig. 86. — HOME-MADE ROOT-CUTTER. Fig. 87. — ROOT-CUTTER SLIDE.

cold salt water when red hot, the other end being cut
with a screw thread. To secure strength, and to make
the machine work with more ease, the cutters are screwed
in so far as to leave only half an inch or a little more
projecting. A still cheaper form is illustrated in figure
86. At A is seen the hopper which is without a bot-
tom. The slide, figure 87, contains a two-edged knife,
and runs in the grooves, G G, in the top of the frame,
close to the bottom of the hopper. Near the bottom of
the frame is a roller, R, into which is fitted the handle,
K. This is connected with the slide by the rod, R. The

72 FARM APPLIANCES.

knife should be about four inches wide and one-quarter
inch thick, be placed diagonally in the slide, leaving half
an inch space between it and the bottom of the slide.
When using the apparatus all that is necessary is to move
the handle to and from the hopper. It works easily and
quickly, is durable, and with fair usuage is not likely to
get out of order. A ready way of chopping a
\S?) few roots, is to use a spade ground to a sharp
edge, and a box in which the roots are quickly
reduced to slices. A basket of turnips or ap-
ples, can be sliced in this way in one minute.
For a larger quantity, a chopper may be
made as in the engraving, figure 88. It has
two long blades, and the roots are hashed up
rapidly, and all danger of choking is avoided.
A common cast-iron winged gudgeon, having
steel strips riveted on the edges, answers as
well as one forged out by a blacksmith, at
Fig. 88. boot seYerai times its cost. The roots, so cut,
may be mixed with meal, and fed to the
cows. Apples are excellent for dairy cows when fed in
this way, and largely increase the flow of milk, besides
being healthy for them.

ROOT WASHERS.

A convenient washer for potatoes and roots, consists of
a kerosene barrel hung in a frame, as shown in figure
89, on next page. Two openings are made in one side
of the barrel — a large one, two staves wide, and a small
one only one inch wide. The pieces cut out are used for
lids, both of which are fastened with hinges and but-
tons, and are made to fit tight by having thick cloth
tacked around their edges. A bushel of potatoes or
roots are placed in the barrel, with, two or three buckets

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

of water, the lids are closed and buttoned, and the barrel
is slowly turned. If they are very dirty, open the small
aperture, and by turning the barrel back and forth allow
the water aud mud to run out. Add clean water and

BOOT WASHER.

turn again. They will soon be cleansed, when the large
aperture may be opened, and the roots or tubers emptied
into a basket. The fastenings at each end of the barrel
can be made by any blacksmith, and they should be
bolted on with one-quarter or three-eighths inch bolts.
With this simple contrivance a man can wash a large

Fig. 90. — VEGETABLE WASHES.

quantity of roots in a day without catching cold or a
chill. If kept out of the sun, such a contrivance will
last a lifetime. In figure 90 is shown a potato and
vegetable washer for household use. The ends of the

FARM APPLIANCES.

cylinders arc cut out of inch board and are twelve inches
in diameter. The shaft runs through and has collars,
to which the ends of the cylinders are fastened to hold
them firm. Strong, tinned wires are fastened from
end to end, as seen in the engraving. Five of these are-
fastened together, and form the lid to the aperture
through which articles are admitted. The end of the lid
is fastened by means of a loop, which springs over a but-
ton. The vegetables to be washed are placed in the cyl-
inder, the box is half filled with water, and by turning

Fig. 91. — TUB FOB WASHES.

the crank, or by moving it back and forth, they are
quickly cleansed. Narrow wooden slats may be used in-
stead of wire, if desired. An ordinary tub, or a half bar-
rel, arranged as seen in figure 91, may be used instead
of the box.

CLAMPS AND STOOL FOR REPAIRING HARNESS.

The device shown in figure 92 combines a stool and a
clamp for holding harness work. The bench or stool, b,
of any desired size, is supported by two legs near one end.
The other end is held up by the foot of the long claw,
extending to a convenient height for the operator. A
shorter claw, c, is fastened to it by a cross-piece, p, about

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

an inch thick and three inches wide, passing through a
slot in the jaws, iu which it works easily but firmly on
two iron pins, a little more than half-way up from the
bench. In the lower end of the short jaw an eccentric
works on a pivot and against a projection on the larger

Fig. 92.— A HARNESS STOOL AND CLAMP.

Fig. 93.

HARNESS HOLDER.

jaw. Depressing the handle to this eccentric or cam,
closes the jaws at the top with all the force desired.

A simple holder without the stool is shown in figure
93. Two staves of a flour barrel are sawed off at a con-
venient length for holding between the knees, while sit-
ting on a chair. The sawed ends of the pieces are se-
curely nailed to the opposite sides of a block of wood.
A hole is cut through the middle of one side piece, in
which a lever is placed for opening and closing the
holder. The lever may be readily made of such shape
that it will always remain in the hole, ready for use.

FARM APPLIANCES.

The curves of the staves will furnish sufficient spring to
hold the harness.

A BOX SAW-HORSE.

The novel saw-horse shown in figure 94 is made of a
dry-goods box, of inch pine boards, thirteen inches long,
eighteen inches wide, and twenty-four inches in height.
Upon the outside of one end are nailed two cleats, and
on the inner side three cleats, the position of which is

Fig. 94. — NOVEL SAW-HORSE.

shown in figure 94. The curved lever above the box is
intended to do the hard work usually imposed upon the
sawyer's left knee, viz., holding the stick sawed in place.
The necessary pressure of the lever is effected by means
of the treadle and the small rope or sash cord connecting
the two. The lever should be so attached to the side of
the box that the loose or curved end rests upon the stick,
held in place by it, about midway between the center and
left diagonal cleats. The treadle should extend, when
horizontal, eight inches beyond the left side of the box.
In using the horse, raise the lever with the left hand,
with the right place the stick to be sawed so that the
point where it is to be cut ia over the U ; the lever is
dropped or pulled down upon the stick ; the left foot is
placed upon the treadle ; a slight pressure will hold the
stick securely. The sawyer, thus using both limbs for
support, and standing nearly erect, will find wood sawing

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

an easy though vigorous exercise, quite exempt from
many of the old-time aches and pains. If the horse is to
be used in a wood-house — a room having a floor — it is
well to secure it by screws to the floor ; if out of doors, it
may be ballasted with a few bricks or stones, or be fas-
tened to a frame.

LONG SAW-BUCKS.

In cutting fire-wood from long timber or sawing lum-
ber, it is convenient to have a long saw-horse. Two
patterns are illustrated herewith. To make the one
shown in figure 95,an oak stick averaging half a foot in

Fig. 95.— A LONG SAW-BUCK.

diameter, was selected from the Avood pile, and a piece
five foot long cut off. Two one-and-a-half-inch auger
holes were bored near each end, not quite opposite each
other, to avoid weakening the timber at one point, and

Fig. 96. — A LIGHTER HORSE.

four strong sticks from the same wood pile were driven
in for legs — a little under two feet long, and standing
well slanting outward. Six one-inch auger holes were
bored in the top, and split-out pegs, eight or ten :nches

78 FAEM APPLIANCES.

long, were driven in, in a position to firmly hold the wood
to be sawed. The two pegs of each pair are not directly
opposite, but separated far enough for the saw -cut to run
down between them. Of the first pair one is four inches
from the end, and the other seven inches back. The
second pair is fifteen inches back of these, and the other
in the farther end of the horse, these last answering as a
support to the long end of the wood to be cut, the other
two pairs being used as the saw-horse. When a stick is
reduced to five feet or so in length, it is drawn forward
and wholly supported on the two pairs of pins nearest
together.

The other horse, shown in figure 96, consists of an ordi-
nary saw-horse having a block nailed across its legs on
one side, forming a rest for the end of a long stick, which
at the other end is fastened into half a saw-horse, a.
The piece to be sawed is laid on the three rests thus
formed, the end to be sawed being placed at a. As each
length is sawed off, a is shoved toward b, the proper dis-
tance. It will be seen that this saw-horse can be length-
ened out or shortened up, to suit the length of the stick.

HOW TO TIE A BAG.

Figure 07 shows a simple and easily made bag-tie
which effectually prevents any slipping, if properly ad-

Fiff. 97.— BAG TIE.

justed. Take any strong cord about eighteen inches
long and double it as herewith seen, passing the ends
through, making a loop around the mouth of the bag.
Now pull as tightly as possible ; then take an end of the

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES.

string in each hand and pull again in opposite directions ;
pass the string completely around, make a knot, and
double or single bow-knot, and the work is done. A very
little experience will make one expert, and he can then
make sure the bag will not come untied.

A HOME-MADE RAKE HEAD.

Figure 98 shows the end view of a hand-rake with the
tooth inserted. The head-block should be
made of green hickory, free from knots
and curls, while the rake-teeth must be of
dry, well-seasoned oak or hickory, and
having grooved places in them, as is seen
in the illustration. The teeth are rounded
and are driven snugly into the green
head-piece, which latter, in drying, will
hold the seasoned teeth so firmly as to
effectually prevent them from ever com-
ing out. In fact, so tightly will they be
held, that tbey can scarcely be driven out
when the head-block has become thor-
oughly seasoned, the shrinkage of the
green wood acting as a permanent vise.
The same principle might be utilized in other small im-
plements.

Fiff. y». — A DOTJ
ABLE EAKE

WORKING BUILDING STONE.

Stone is the most durable and the cheapest building
material where it is plentiful on the farm. By a little
management the stoue can be brought to a convenient
shape for use. The tools required, shown in figure 99,
are : a chipping hammer, a wedge and steel feathers, a

FARM APPLIANCES.

striking hammer, drill and a bar for opening cracks in the
stone. The clipping hammer has a broad, sharp edge,
and acts as a chisel for dressing the faces ; and the sharp
edges of the rectangular head, two by four inches, serve

The

Fig. 99. — TOOLS FOB 6TONE WOBK.

to dress down the edges and corners of the stones,
wedgcis three by one and a balf inches, and the feathers
are plates of steel as wide as the wedge, which they serve
to protect. The striking hammer is three inches square,
and six inches long, with a beveled edge around the
face. The drill is of one and a quarter inch octagonal
steel, and is eighteen inches long, or if there be two, one
is twelve inches long. The bar is four and a half feet
long, and has a sharp-edged steel point for striking into
cracks and splitting the stone, which it is usually easy to

Fig. 100.— BBEAKXNG A LABGE STONE.

do. A large stone is broken by drilling a few holes in it
with a one-inch drill, and chipping a groove across the
face along the line of holes, as shown in figure 100. Small
round wedges, with small feathers, are placed in each
hole, and they are struck one after the other, in rotation.

SMALL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 81

By this method very large blocks are split with an even
face. A small stone is easily split by chipping grooves
across it, and then repeatedly striking along upon the
groove with the face of the hammer.

BLOCK FOR SAND-PAPER.

Sand-paper is put up by the manufacturers in quires
of sheets nine by eleven inches in size. As used by many
workmen, nearly a fourth of each sheet is wasted by
folding and crumpling over improperly shaped blocks.
A convenient block, figure 101, which permits the use

Fig. 101.

of all the sand-paper, is here described. Make a
wedge-shaped piece of hard wood, one and a half inch
thick, three inches wide, and five-and one-quarter inches
long, tapering from the head to a sharp edge. Cut a V |
shaped hollow across the head. Fit a piece three inches

Fig. 102.
long, of hard-wood, exactly to this hollow. Insert in the
head a wood or porcelain drawer knob seven-eighths of
an inch in diameter, fastening it securely by a long screw.
Cut a sheet of sand-paper into three equal parts, three

FAEM APPLIANCES.

by eleven inches. Fold one-f ourth of an inch at each end
of a strip of sand-paper, and slip under the head-piece
by loosening the screw. Tightening it will hold the paper
fast and smooth for work. A common wood screw may
be used in place of the knob, but is not as convenient, as
it must be turned by a screw-driver.

CH APTEE IY.

APPLIANCES FOR THE BARN, PASTURE AND DAIRY.

COXYEXIEXT STABLE VEXTILATOE.

It must not be supposed that fresh air in the winter
is to be excluded from stables for the purpose of keeping
the animals warm. Warmth alone is not comfort. An
animal may suffer from cold in a close, damp, impure
air, which is really warm, while it will be quite comfort-

Fig. 103.— STABLE S ENT1LATOB.

able in fresh, pure air, which is much below freezing
temperature. The absence of oxygen in the one case re-
duces the vital warmth, while its abundance in the other
case maintains an agreeable and comfortable feeling.
Consequently, ventilation of stables is necessary, even in
the coldest weather, to keep the animals in good health
and in comfort. But it should be regulated judiciously

THE BAEN, PASTUKE AND DAIRY. 83

by a suitable provision of openings at the upper part of
the stable, and these should be made so as to be readily
opened and closed. A row of holes cut in the wall near
the upper floor, figure 103, and covered with a sliding-
board, having precisely the same kind and number of
holes to match those in the wall, will afford suitable ven-
tilation for the stable at all seasons. The covering board
slides back and forth on the pins shown, and covers or
opens the holes as may be desirable, according to the con-
dition of the weather.

LIGHT NEEDED IN BARNS.

Here and there we see an old-style barn, built by our
grandfathers, the only window being a single row of
panes over the large door. Through this comes all of the
light admitted to the barn, except what comes through
the open cracks between the boards. When a barn of this
kind is filled with hay it is comfortably warm, but very
dark; by midwinter the hay, being half consumed, leaves
the walls unprotected. With the light come in also the
cold wintry winds to chill the cattle. Our fathers built
some barns warmer, covering the walls with shingles or
the cracks with narrow battens. The light being thus
shut out, it was necessary to have windows; so they put in
just enough to enable them to see to feed their cattle.
It was left for our generation to build barns that are
tight, comfortable, and well-lighted. But even at pres-
ent many farmers do not realize the importance of light
in a cattle barn. Experiments show that a herd of milch
cows not only keep in better health and condition by
having plenty of light, but they give more milk. Every
barn should be provided with abundant light and sun-
shine on the side where the cattle stand. The practice,
which is far too prevalent, of keeping cows in a dark and

84 FARM APPLIANCES.

damp basement is not a good one. They can not hare
the sunshine and pure air so necessary for good health.
"Windows that are exposed may be protected for a trifling
sum by covering them with wire netting. The day of
windowless barns has passed ; but some of our new barns
would be improved by a few more windows.

LAXTERXS IX THE BARX.

It is estimated that nine-tenths of all fires are caused
by carelessness. Never light a lamp or lantern of any
kind iu a barn. Smokers may include their pipes and
cigars in the above. The lantern should be lighted in
the house or some out-building, where no combustibles
are stored. A lantern which does not burn well, should
never be put in order in the hay mow. There is a great
temptation to strike a match and re-light an extin-
guished lantern, wherever it may be. It is best to even
feel one's way out to a safe place, than to run any risks.
If the light is not kept in the hand, it should be hung
up. Provide hooks in the various rooms where the lights
are used. A wire running the whole length of the horse
stable, at the rear of the stalls, and furnished with a
sliding hook, is very convenient for night work with the
horses. Some farmers are so careless, as to keep the
lamp oil in the barn, and fill the lantern there, while the
wick is burning. Such risks are too great, even if the
buildings are insured.

SAFETY STICK EOE MARE'S HALTER.

Figure 104 shows a simple method of preventing colts
from getting tangled in the mare's halter, and so be-
coming strangled. A piece of wood, eighteen inches long

THE BARK, PASTURE AtfD DAIRY.

and two inches wide, is bored with a half-inch hole at
each end, as shown in the engraving. The halter is
passed through these holes and fastened in the usual

Fig. 104.— HALTER STICK FOR MARE WITH FOAL AT FOOT.

"manner. The wood should be of tough oak or hickory,
so that it will not break. It entirely prevents the for-
mation of loops in the halter.

TO KEEP A HORSE FROM JUMPING.

Figure 105 shows a hopple to restrain a horse from
jumping. It consists of a surcingle about the body of the
horse, together with two short straps that pass through

Fig. 105.— HOPPLE FOR A HORSE.

the surcingle and around each foreleg, being buckled so
that when the horse stands upright, the strap will fall
about half-way to the knees. This arrangement, which
allows the horse to walk quite freely, prevents its run-

8C FARM APPLIANCES.

ning as well as jumping. A similar plan is to connect the
forelegs of a horse by straps secured just above the knee,
but those who have tried both plans prefer the one here-
with illustrated. Some horses are difficult to catch
when at pasture, and this device will prove valuable in
such cases.

COUPLING HORSES IN THE PASTURE.

Cut a piece of tough wood two feet six inches
long, two inches in diameter ; shave off the bark and
bore a three-quarter or a one-inch hole near each end ;
tie a piece of half -inch rope around each animal's neck,

Fig. 106.— COUPLING FOR HORSES.

making a loose collar that will not slip, over his head ;
take a loop of the rope and pass it through a hole in the
bar, and into the loop insert the key, made of a piece of
a half -inch oak board, two by three inches, shaped as in
figure 106. The board being rounded at the top, will
allow the rope, to turn easily in the yoke and prevent
choking. Always couple the animal that is likely to
stray with the one that is not. This contrivance, used
frequently on Southern and Western ranges, is approved
by some as safe and convenient, and condemned by others

THE BARK, PASTURE AND DAIRY.

as dangerous and uncomfortable for the animals. We
give the illustration and description for what they are
worth.

A SIMPLE TETHER.

Figure 107 shows a tether for a horse or cow which
obviates the danger of an animal becoming entangled as
when staked out in tbe usual way. It is made as follows:
Take a stout piece of timber, a, b, three and one-half feet

Fig. 107. — TETHER FOR HORSE.

long; fasten a ring at a, and one at c, six inches from the
lower end. Take a pole, c, d, making it long enough
to extend back of the animal's heels three or four feet,
and fasten a ring to each end. An iron spike, f, with a
ring, e, in the end, is driven in tbe ground. The irreg-
ular line represents a cord of wire of any desired length.

88 FARM APPLIANCES.

Fasten the rod, a, b, to the halter at a, with a leather
strap, also c, d to a, b, in the same way- at c; tie one end
of the cord in the ring at d, and the other in.the ring in
the end of the iron spike. The ring at c, six inches
from the lower end, prevents taking up the cord, and
thus entangling the animal. The end, b, will slide over
it as the animal grazes.

CHAIN CATTLE TIE.

Various methods have been devised for coupling cattle
in their stalls in a more humane manner than by stan-
chions. The common chain tie passes about the animal's
neck, and slides up or down upon a post or iron rod,
attached to the stall or manger. The tie, figure 108, is
similar, except that the neck-chain is connected with
two posts or rods, upon which it slides. The improve-
ment consists in using rings upon the posts, and con-

Fig. 108. — AS IMPROVED TIE FOB CATTLE.

necting the side-chain with the neck chain by means of
snap-hooks, attached to the central ring as shown in the
engraving. This enables one to adjust the tie to any width
of stall, say from three to four feet, and have it reason-
ably taut. The advantage of this method -of fastening
cattle over any other is, that while great freedom is given
the head, so that a cow can lick both sides and lie down
with her head upon either side, she has no more back-

THE BARN, PASTURE AND DAIRY. 89

ward and forward motion than if she stood in stanchions,
hence must leave her droppings in the gutter — if the
stall is of the proper length. There is a constant ten-
dency to give cow stalls too long a floor. Every cow
should lie with her rump four to eight inches beyond the
floor. The only objection to this is that the cows' tail
will sometimes become wet from lying in the gutter. If,
however, this is given a pretty sharp fall and consider-
able breadth, water will not accumulate, and there will
be no inconvenience experienced on this score.

AN" UNPATENTED CALF FEEDER.

Undoubtedly calves which take nourishment directly
from the cow, do better than those which take it from
the pail, unless care is taken to feed them slowly. An

Fig. 109.— CALF FEEDER.

artificial udder is shown in figure 109, made of strong
water-proof duck in the shape of a cow's udder, and fur-
nished with teats, each filled with a piece of sponge. The

FA.RM APPLIANCES.

mouth of the bag may be closed by means of clamps,
figure 110, and the bag hung up in the calf pen. The
calf will get its milk slowly and along with plenty of

Fig. 110. — CLAMPS FOR CALF FEEDER.

saliva, which is an indispensable aid to digestion. It is
the want of an adequate quantity of saliva with the milk,
which causes so much indigestion in calves that are al-
lowed to drink milk from a pail.

TWO KINDS OF MILKING STOOLS.

The construction of a very good milking stool is
readily seen in figure 111. Upon a hard-wood board,

Fig. 111. — MILKING STOOL.

Fig. 112. — MILKING STOOL.

twelve inches wide, one inch thick, and thirty inches
long, fasten at right angles a board to serve as a rest.
This should be eight inches wide, and as long as the

THE BARN, PASTURE AND DAIRY. 91

width of the back-board. Strengthen the seat with stout
braces. Cut a narrow opening in the long board, to
admit the fingers, by which to carry the stool, or hang
it up when not in use.

The other stool, figure 112, is designed for a man who
has a good many cows to milk, and desires to carry his
stool around with him, while his hands are left free. The
seat consists of the bottom of a peach basket ; the single
leg is made of a round piece of wood securely fastened
to the center of the seat. The latter may be padded and
covered as one chooses. Leather straps to reach up and
around the waist of the milker, as shown in the illus-
tration, should be firmly attached, to the seat.

VAT FOR DEEP SETTING MILK.

The advantages of the deep setting of milk at a low
temperature can be eujoyed by means of the simple
cooler, figure 113. To make the cooler take six pine
planks, two inches thick, twelve inches wide, and six

Fig. 113.— A COOLER FOR SETTING MILK.

feet long, four boards sixteen and a half inches long and
twelve inches wide, and construct a box with the ends
gained in with a groove a quarter of an inch deep.
Place a rubber strip between the boards, and clamp with
rods and bolts, to make it as tight as possible. Provide a

FARM APPLIANCES.

lid to keep out dust and to shade from the sun. Place a
faucet at the bottom, by which to run off the water when
it has become warm. Set the cooler near the well
whence cold water can easily be drawn, and keep the cans
of milk submerged in the water. If there is a supply of
ice, the temperature of the water may be still further
reduced, and the cooler rendered more efficient. A box
-if the size given above will have room for twelve three
gallon cans.

HOME-MADE BUTTER-WORKER.

The butter worker, figure 114, is made to stand upon a
table or low bench, or when of large size, upon the floor.
The lever works upon a rod and can be moved sidewise,
an arrangement which we have seen in no other butter-

Fig. 114.— A SEBVICEABLE BCTTER-WOBKEB.

worker, but which is a very desirable one. The table
slopes forward, and has several grooves to carry the liquid
down to a pail or a dish placed to receive it. The lever
at the under side is leveled to a round or sharp edge, as
may be wished. The cost of the worker is a mere trifle ;
it should be made of niaple, ash or chestnut.

THE BARN, PASTURE AND DAIRY.

A CONVENIENCE FOR FLY TIME.

The comfort which a cow seems to derive from a free
use of her tail during fly time, is not
shared in any degree by the milker, and
various means have been devised to hold
the troublesome appendage in place. One
of the latest is illustrated in figure 115.
Half a dozen six-penny wire nails are
driven through a piece of lath, and each
point bent to a hook. A brick is sus-
pended by a string from the lower end of
the stick. As the milker sits down beside
the cow, the hooks are thrust into the
brush of her tail, leaving the brick resting
in part on the ground or barn floor. After
tail- the first futile efforts to swing the brick
by tail power, the cows learn to give it
up, and the milker is free from a very great annoyance.

Fig. 115.—

HOLDER

REINS FOR DRIVING OXEN.

Figure 116 shows a method of arranging the reins for
a yoke of oxen. Each ox has a spring bull-ring placed in

Fig. 116. — DRIVING OXEN WITH REINS,

9-1 FABil APPLIANCES.

his nose, and from these rings small ropes run back as
seen in the illustration. Staples are driven into the top
of the yoke through which the cords pass. It is claimed
that with these reins a yoke of oxen can be guided and
controlled with ease. The rings are quickly removed
from the noses when work hours are over.

VAT FOR DIPPING SHEEP.

Sheep should be dipped twice a year. They suffer a
great deal from vermin, which are destroyed by the dip-
ping. After shearing, the ticks greatly annoy the lambs,
upon which they gather from the shorn sheep and prevent

fig. Hi'. — POETABLE VAT.

their growth. The lambs, at least, should be dipped, to
free them from these pests, but it is well to dip the whole
flock, as a safeguard against the prevalent scab, and other
skin diseases. A very good dipping vat is shown in fig-
ure 117. It is made of one and a quarter inch tongue
and grooved boards, put together at the joints with pitch,
and is furnished with handles, with which it can be
moved from place to place. It may be six feet long,
three feet wide, and three feet deep. The sloping end3
have cleats nailed across them on the inside, by which
the sheep are assisted to get out of the vat, upon a
draining floor placed to receive them. A good dip is
made of one pound of coarse tobacco, and one pound
of sulphur, steeped in five gallons of boiling water. It

THE BARN, PASTURE AND DAIRY. 95

is most effective when used at a temperature of one
hundred and twenty degrees, and the sheep should be
left in the dip long enough to have the wool saturated,
and the skin well soaked by the fluid. A quantity of
fresh dip should be kept in a boiler, to renew the old
dip as it is diminished by use.

SHEEP-SHEARING BENCH.

Shearing benches will be found desirable, as they save
the wearisome stooping over the sheep. A bench of this
kind is shown in figure 118. It is made of stout strips
nailed to curved cross-pieces. These are best bent by

Fig. 118.— SHEAKING BENCH.

steaming them, or soaking them in hot water for some
hours, or sponging them frequently beside a hot fire, by
which the fiber is much softened and the wood is warped,
permanently. The legs are about twenty inches long.
Any dust on the wool falls through the bars.

EAR TAG PUNCH FOR MARKING ANIMALS.

A punch, which is struck with a hammer, and even
the new belt-punch pattern, now so generally used, in-
flict considerable pain ; the blow in one case, and the
very considerable pressure needful in the other, are
both productive of suffering which can just as well be
avoided. Some breeders have used with entire satisfao

FARM APPLIANCES.

tion a very simple contrivance, figure 119, which any ma-
chine shop can furnish from the engraving and descrip-
tion herewith. Take a piece of steel rod, say five inches
long and about five-sixteenths of an

. . inch in diameter. Fix this in a

d chuck and drill a hole endwise from
a to b in the engraving, which leaves
that end a hollow tube, the walls
of which are about one-thirty-second
of an inch thick, supposing a one-
quarter inch drill has been used.
Possibly a little smaller hole would
be better. Then file a notch in one
side at b, so that it will clear readily.
Drill a small hole, c, near the one
end, in which to fit a short piece of
smaller wTire, d, wrhich forms a con-
Fig. 119.— ear punch, venient gimlet-like handle. When
finished, have it nicely filed to a
taper at the hollow end, so as to form a thin cutting
edge, which must be kept quite sharp. After being
tempered it forms the best tool for its work ever invented.
To use the punch, hold in the left hand a large cork,
or a small block of wood, and carefully selecting the
proper place between the ribs or ridges of the ear, press
the punch snugly down, give it a quick, sharp twist, just
as one would a gimlet, and the animal scarcely flinches
I at all, so slight is the pain.

SEWING UP WOUNDS IN ANIMALS.

The winter season is always prolific of accidents, chiefly
among horses, which are often badly blemished by cuts
which are left to heal imperfectly, without any assistance.

THE BARN, PASTURE AND DAIRY.

"When a horse with sharp calks kicks another, or when an
animal falls upon ice, the skin is usually cut in an angu-

Fig. 120.— NEEDLE FOE SEWING UP WOUNDS.

lar shape and the flap of skin hangs over in an unsightly
manner, or in a torn cut the skin gapes open and makes
a wound difficult to heal. As a rule, a horse's wound

Fig. 121. — WOUND SEWED TOGETHER.

heals very rapidly under the simplest treatment. A
curved needle, figure 120, is used to sew up severe wounds
as shown in figure 121.

CHAPTER V.
WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS AND FILTERS.

WINDLASS AND TILTING BUCKET.

As ordinary pumps draw water only thirty-three feet
perpendicularly, and practically only about thirty feet
from the water surface, force-pumps or windlasses are re-
quired, for wells thirty or more feet deep. The com-
mon windlass with stop ratchet serves a fair purpose, but
requires the bucket to be let all the way down by turn-

98 FA EM APPLIANCES.

ing the crank backward. Various forms of brakes have
been devised. Figure 122 shows the construction and oper-
ation of one. Two opposite corner pieces, p, extend six
feet high above the platform,and a diagonal piece connect-

Fig. 122.— IMPROVED WINDLASS.

ing their upper ends supports a grooved pulley carrying
the lifting rope. A hook, h, turning on a pivot, is thrown
over the lever b, and slid along it far enough to hold the
brake against the windlass firmly, when the hand is re-
moved. A swinging iron rod catches in the small pin on
the top of the bucket as it rises, and tips the water into
the spout. With these little additions, a windlass and
bucket are better than a pump, as the water is drawn
fresh, with no tainting from the pump log. The actual
force required to raise the same water is less with the
windlass than with .the pump, as less power is required
than is wasted in the friction of the close fitting valves
of the pump, and the friction of the water against the
side of the tube.

WELL-CUEB OF STAVES.

Figure 123 is a very strong and durable curb made of
staves. A cooper can make it, setting up the staves,

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERN'S, FILTERS.

which are one and one-quarter inch thick, as for a barrel,
using three iron hoops. The shaft of the windlass is also
of iron, to which a wooden cylinder is fastened by a

Fig. 123.— A " BARREL " WELL-CURB

couple of bolts driven through the wood and iron. In
making the windlass, fashion the wood to the right size,
and then split open the cylinder, cut a place for the
shaft, fit it in, and then drive bands over the ends.

HEMLOCK FOR WELL-CURBS.

In many sections of country stone is scarce, and plank
is used for curbing wells. Pine lumber gives a dis-
agreeable taste to water. Hemlock lumber is usually
cheaper than pine, and can be obtained at most lumber
yards. Five hundred feet of lumber are sufficient for a
well fourteen feet deep, three by four feet outside meas-
urement. The four posts should be four by four inches,
and the planks two inches thick, fastened on with heavy
spikes. Dig down until there is danger of caving, and
then put in the curb, with planks enough on to reach the
surface of the ground. Afterwards dig the earth from the
inside of the curb, and put on the planks as fast as
needed. In some soils that are loose, the weight of the

100

FARM APPLIANCES.

curb will settle it down as the work progresses ; should it
not, drive on the posts. Such a curb, made of sound
hemlock, will last for years, and give pleasant water from
the first.

SECURING THE WELL-BUCKET.

One who has much experience with well-
buckets, will find they are often set down
outside of the curb, and not always in a
clean place. In this manner the water in
the well may be fouled with clay, if with
nothing worse. Every person should be
very careful to avoid anything that may
in any degree tend to impair the purity
of the water in a well. One way to secure
this end is to have the bucket always in a
safe place. -This may be done by fixing
a cord or a chain to the beam over the
pulley, or to the stirrup of the pulley, and
Fig. 124. fastening a hook to its lower end, upon

which the bucket should always be hung when not in use.

This arrangement for the well-bucket is made plain by

figure 124.

CURB WITH A BUCKET SHELF.

Another device for keeping the bucket clean is shown
in figure 1 25. An iron plate of suitable size is held on
the end of an arm fastened at right angles to an upright
iron rod. The bottom of this rod rests upon an iron pro-
jecting from the corner of the curb, and the top is held
in place by an eye-rod. The filled bucket is raised high

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTERS.

101

enough so that the plate is placed directly under it. Let
up on the windlass when the bucket is secure on the

Fig. 125.— A BUCKET SHELF.

plate, and it may he swung to one side without straining
the back, or danger of slipping when it is icy.

COVERED WELL-CURBS.

Figure 126 is a desirable covering for a well-curb. The
upper part of the curb is floored over, except about a foot
and a half in the center. Cleats, r, r, are nailed along
two opposite sides of the bucket-holes and upon these, at

Fig. 126. — A WELL-CURB COVERING.

one end, is placed a strip, g. A wide board is made to
fit and slide in the grooves formed by the cleats. The

102

FARM APPLIANCES.

wooden pins, a, a, project above the cover, and answer
as handles for sliding it as desired.

Figure 127 shows a covered well curb, which is safe
against worms, frogs and other vermin ; and also against
the entrance of surface water, leaves and other objects.
The wall of the well is carried up to the surface of the

Fig.— 127.— A SAFE WELL CURB.

ground, and clean gravel is spread around it and beaten
down firmly. A frame of four by four-inch chestnut is
then bedded down level with this surface, and a floor of
two-inch planks, with matched edges, is laid down, pro-
jecting a little over the raised gravel, as shown in the
engraving. The ground slopes from the floor in all di-
rections, and should be neatly sodded. The best cov-
ering, being indestructible, is a large flagstone ; or, it may
be made with several pieces and bedded in mortar. The
curb is built around the well, large enough to give stand-
ing room for the bucket at one corner ; it should be no
higher than is convenient to reach over it to use the
bucket. A spout is fixed to the front, into which the
bucket is emptied without lifting it over the curb. The
curb is protected on top with one fixed and one hinged
wire gauze covered frame. The hinged one is thrown
back and rests against a support, if desired, as shown,
or it may fall entirely back upon the other one. This

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERN'S, FILTERS. 103

wire gauze admits air, but keeps out leaves and other
trash, which is blown about by the winds. Au open curb
like this keeps the air in the well pure, the water clean,
and in some respects it is preferable to a pump.

IMPURE WATER IN" WELLS.

It becomes more and more evident each year that much
of the sickness prevalent in the country is directly at-
tributable to the quality of the water. By carefully
studying the matter, it is found that in nine cases out of
ten typhoid fevers originate in families whose water sup-
ply is from a well, into which impure water comes. This
may be from the farm yard, and quite generally such is
the case. For some years the water in a well near the
house may be pure and wholesome, but by-and-bye the
soil between it and the barn-yard will become so im-
pregnated with pollution that an un healthful quality will
be imparted to it, and disease will result from its use.
This is almost sure to be the case when the distance be-
tween the two is not great, because, as a general thing,
the bottom of the well is lower than the yard, and the
drainage from the latter will extend in all directions
through the most porous strata of soil, and when it
reaches the well, it will naturally flow into it as a reser-
voir. No matter how pure the water may have been when
the well was first dug, sooner or later it will be contami-
nated by water flowing through the soil from barn-yards
and cesspools located anywhere near it. A case is on
record in which four children died from diphtheria.
An examination by the physician proved that the slops
from the kitchen had so filled the soil for a distance of
twenty feet between the back door, out of which they
were thrown, and the well, that the water in the latter

104

FARM APPLIANCES.

was polluted by foul gases, and from the use of it diph-
theria had certainly resulted. When making a well,
have it, if possible, above the barn-yard, and let the
drainage be from it rather than into it. Arrange a place
for slops with a cement bottom and sides, from which
glazed pipes, cemented together, allow the unhealthy
matter to flow off and away from the well.

HOOK FOR CLEANING WELLS.

Every farmer who has open wells, knows how difficult
and tiresome a task it is, to extricate articles which have
fallen into them, but figure 128 shows a contrivance
which has been used successfully. Find the depth of the
well and cut off as many eight or ten-foot
lengths, four inches wide, of inch boards,
as will, when fastened together, reach to the
bottom of the well. Sharpen the end of one
length to a point, as a in the engraving ;
bolt or nail a cross-piece b, three or four
inches above the point a, making one side
a little longer than the other, and about
three inches shorter than the radius of the
well. Fasten upon the cross-piece three
pieces of chain, each about ten inches long,
at equal distance from each other. Make
double hooks out of one-eighth inch wire,
or old bucket bails ; sharpen the ends, and
attach them to the chains. Bolt the lengths
of boards together closely ; let the cross-piece and hooks
down into the well, tightening the bolt at the end of
each length as it passes, until the point reaches the bot-
tom. Now turn the contrivance, causing the hook to
describe several circles at the bottom of the well. The
article sought for will probably be caught by the hooks ;

Fig. 128.

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTERS. 105

besides a good many other things not looked for will
perhaps be brought up.

A NON-FREEZING PUMP.

One of the simplest methods of preventing a pump
from freezing is shown in figure 129. The pump is
boxed from the platform to six inches or more above the
spout, the box being made large enough to admit of a

Fig. 129. — PUMP PROTECTOR.

packing of sawdust or spent tan bark between it and the
pump-stock ; or the pump-stock can be well wrapped
with heavy hardware paper and then boxed tightly,
which will effectually keep out almost any ordinary de-
cree of cold. It is well to have the platform double-
boarded, running each layer of boards in opposite direc-
tions, and mounding up well around the platform with
earth, to still further protect against cold.

AGITATION OF AIR IN WELLS.

One great objection to the old style of log pump is the
non-ventilation of the well. The platform is made as
tight and close-fitting as possible, to prevent dirt, vermin

106

FARM APPLIANCES.

etc., from getting into the water. By the use of a chain
pump there is enough to agitate the air and water and to
prevent stagnation in either. By means of a cheap,
simple contrivance, shown in figure 130, all wells may

T\S. 130. — AGITATOB FOB WELL.

have an abundant supply of fresh air. In the illustra-
tion, h is the wooden or metal tube of a common lift or
force pump ; a, is the handle to which is attached,
three or four inches from where it is hinged to the pump,
a small wooden or metal rod, b. If this rod is of wood,
it need not be over three-quarters of an inch in diameter,
and if a metal one three-eights of an inch will answer.
It runs from the handle downward to and along side of
the pump-tube, shown at h, passing through two or
more closely-fitting staples, and extends to within two
feet of the high water mark. It is provided at the lower
end with an arm, or more properly speaking, a fan, e,

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTERS. 10?

which should be of some light material, such as a thin
board or piece of sheet iron or tin, eight or nine inches
square. It is evident that the act of pumping will move
this fan up and down, from three to five inches at each,
stroke of the handle, producing a movement of the air
within the well. By continuing the rod downward for a
few feet, and attaching to the end a block of wood two
or three inches square, the water will also be sufficiently
agitated to prevent stagnation.

DEEPENING WELLS.

Many wells which fail during long drouths, could be
made, by deepening a few feet, to yield an abundant and
unfailing supply of water. But it is difficult to accom-
plish this by ordinary means, without endangering the
wall with which the well is lined. Figures 131 to 135 show
a set of appliances by which the work may be safely done
without danger to the wall, even in sandy or gravelly
soil. Figure 131 is a sort of well-auger of galvanized
iron, five inches in diameter, and of any desired length,
from fourteen to twenty inches. Before it is bent in
shape, a bias strip is cut from its lower edge, giving it
the shape shown in the engraving. The rod by which it
is worked is of wrought iron pipe one inch in diameter.
A X is screwed on its summit, to receive the handle, of
ash, or other tough wood. Figure 132 is a cylinder, also
of galvanized sheet-iron, six inches in diameter and two
feet long. It is reinforced at each end by iron bands
riveted on, and is perforated throughout with thin slits
for the admission of water when in position. Figure 133
is the head of the auger. It is of inch board, upon
which is screwed a flange with a thread, to receive the
lower end of the hollow rod. Figure 135 represents a
cross-section of this head-piece. At the lower end of the

108

FARM APPLIANCES.

auger-tube is the piece shown in figure 134. This is a
circular piece of galvanized iron, cut five inches in di-
ameter, slitted from one side to the center, and the cut
edges bent to spiral or screw-shape. This is soldered

Fig. 131.— well Fig. 132.— oylin-

AUGKK. DEE.

Fig. 135.

into the lower end of the auger -tube, as shown by dotted
lines in figure 131. A large hole on one side near the
top, not shown in the engraving, serves to empty the
tube of sand and dirt. To operate this, the cylinder is
first pushed down as far as practicable into the bottom
of the well. With the auger the earth is removed from
inside the cylinder. As the work of excavation proceeds,
the cylinder is pushed down until its upper edge is level
with the bottom of the well. If a sufficient vein of
water is not then reached, the boring goes on, and a

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTEKS.

109

second cylinder follows the first. This makes an addi-
tional depth of four feet, which is generally sufficient.
If not, the process can be continued by providing ad-
ditional cylinders, and splicing the auger -stem until a
permanent water-vein is found.

DIGGING A WELL.

A hole is dug down and the earth thrown out as far
as could be done, and then a ladder is rigged up on
three stakes as shown in figure 136. A pulley is at-
tached to one round, a cord thrown over it and fastened

Fig. 136.— DIGGING A DAKOTA WELL.

to a pail, the other end of the rope reaching into the well.
The pail is filled and drawn to the surface, where it
is swung to one side, emptied and returned for an-
other load. The upper end of the ladder should be
elevated about six feet above the ground.

HOW TO BUILD A CISTERN.

Every part around the surface of a cistern should be
made close. The beams which support the floor should
be bedded in the wall, or shoulder of the cistern, and

110

FARM APPLIANCES.

covered with lime or cement mortar, leaving a smooth
surface all around the first floor. This should then be
covered with a second floor, raised eight or ten inches on
a frame of two by ten joists, made of cedar or chestnut.

Fie. 137. — FBOST-FBOOF CISTEBS.

The earth should be packed closely against this frame,
and the top floor should extend a few inches beyond the
frame all around. The cistern is then frost and vermin
proof. Another important point is to get rid of the sed-
iment that gathers at the bottom of every cistern. This
is done by carrying the overflow pipe to the bottom of
the cistern on a line with the inlet pipe, and thus form-
ing a current which disturbs the sediment and carries it
into the overflow. This is shown in figure 13?, also the
arrangement of the draw-pipe, which should have a fine
wire strainer on the end, and should rest upon a support
near the bottom of a fine strainer, at least two feet high.
A piece of one-quarter inch mesh of galvanized wire
gauze, bent into a pipe a foot in diameter, and covered

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTERS. Ill

with thick flannel cloth, doubled, makes a filter for the
water.

WATER IN THE BARN YARD.

"Water in the barn yard is a great economy and con-
venience ; by a little management it can be secured with
ease. The difficulties in the way, are chiefly in bringing
the water down hill, over an elevation midway, and

Fig. 138. — CONVEYING WATER. BY SIPHON.

in bringing it up hill, from a spring or well below the
level. In the former case, a siphon must be used, as
shown in figure 138. It consists of a pipe, one end of
which is under the surface of the water in a well or
spring, and carried over a ridge, and down a slope, to a
lower level. This method is open to one objection,
which nearly always gives trouble. There is more or
less air dissolved in water; this dissolved air escapes,
as the water is flowing through the pipe, and gathers at
the highest point, where it stops the flow. To remove
this air, the following arrangement is made. A short
pipe, furnished with a stop cock and a funnel, is fitted
to the highest point of the siphon. "When the flow
begins to be obstructed by air, the stop cock at the lov.er
end of the pipe is shut, and that at the top is opened.

112 FAKM APPLIANCES.

The pipe is then filled with water through the funnel.
The water is held in the pipe by a check valve at
the hottom of the well pipe. The air is thus driven out
of the siphon, and the top stop-cock is shut. The flow
is started by opening the lower stop-cock, and all goes

Fig. 139. — RAISING WATEB BT FOBCE PUMP.

on again, until the air gathers in the pipe once more,
when the remedy is repeated. To draw water up hill,
by a pump, the method seen in figure 139 is used : The
pipe, having a check valve at the bottom, is laid from
the spring, up the incline, and connected with a force
pump, in a dry well, at the top. "Water can be raised in
this manner, from about twenty-eight or thirty feet
below the bottom of the dry well, and for a distance of
two hundred and fifty, or three hundred feet, or more.
The linear distance is not an obstacle, except for the f ric-1
tion in the pipes ; it is the perpendicular height alone,
which gives serious trouble, and about twenty-eight or
thirty feet, is all that can be overcome by meaus of a
suction pump. A force pump is useful to raise the water
eight or ten feet more than this, when necessary. This
method is shown in the engraving.

WOODEN WATEE PIPES.

For conveying water any distances less than fifteen
rods, and where the amount desired is greater than can

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTERS. 113

be supplied by a half-inch pipe, wooden tubing will be
found cheaper than iron, lead, or other metallic pipes.
Wooden tubing, of from one and a quarter to two-inch
bore, may be obtained of all hardware dealers. In pur-
chasing observe that the ends are iron-banded, to prevent
splitting when placed together, and to prevent the tubes
from bursting when under a heavy head of water. Be-
fore the pipe is laid, it is best to give it one or two coats
of oil ; even crude petroleum will do ; this adds greatly
to the durability. In pipes through which there is a
constant flow of water, there is little danger of decay ; in
fact, some old-fashioned pump logs which have been re-
moved after nearly fifty years of use, were found sound
on the inside. Wooden, as well as other pipes convey-
ing water, should be laid below the frost line. If the
water is intended for drinking purposes, place the pipe
at least three feet under ground, and if in sandy, porous
soils, to a still greater depth. After the pipe is in posi-
tion, and before the water is admitted, pour hot coal-tar
over it, especially at each joint, which is readily done by
using a watering pot or an old tea or coffee-pot. Always
test wooden and other pipes after they are laid, by ad-
mitting water before covering them with soil, in order
that a leak, if found, may be easily stopped.

FILTERS FOR FAMILY USE.

Almost every country store is in more or less direct
communication with some pottery, where salt-glazed
ware is made. Lead-glazed ware should be avoided, but
the salt-glazed is both cheap and safe. Any pottery will
furnish to order, or they may have them on hand, five or
six gallon cylindrical jars of glazed ware, having a spigot
hole in the side close to the bottom, and the usual jar lid.
A common flower pot of large size should be selected,

114

FARM APPLIANCES.

which will just fit in the top of the jar, as shown in
figure 140. This pot is the filter, and it is thus ar-
ranged : The bottom is covered by a circular piece of

Fig. 140.

FARM WATER FILTER.

Fig. 141.

A SERVICEABLE FILTER.

thick woolen felt, or two or three pieces of blanket,
upon this is placed a layer an inch thick of well-washed
sand. Note that the sand, being well washed, the felt
or blanket pieces should be so also. Now upon the sand,
freshly burned, soft wood charcoal, which should be
freshly heated, free from all dust, and about the size of
grains of wheat, should be laid in to the depth of six
inches more, and upon this an inch of sand, and another
pad of felt or blanket to top off with. Fit up two
flower pots for each filter, and keep those not in use
covered and clean. The water is poured into the flower
pot. A clean lump of clear ice, whole or broken up,
may be placed in the jar below the pot, and then the
water is fit for anybody's use.

The filter shown in figure 141 is made of a stout
oak barrel with iron hoops. The head is taken out

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTERS. 115

carefully and a number of holes are bored through
it with a half-inch auger, then five or six oaken blocks,
about three inches long, are nailed to the under side.
It is then placed in the barrel for a false bottom.
On this spread a layer of coarse gravel about two
inches thick, then another of finer gravel ; on this
spread eight inches of charcoal ; then add a six-inch
layer of gravel, and on top place washed sand up to
within an inch of the overflow pipe. Over this sand fit
in the barrel a cover made of inch pine boards. In the
center of this cut an opening ten inches square. Then
make a low frame a little larger than the opening, cover
both sides with cheese cloth, and fasten securely over the
open space in the head, but in such a manner that i^can
be easily removed again. The object of this covering
being to prevent sand from escaping into the cistern, it
becomes sometimes necessary, after heavy rains, to take
up the frame and wash the cloth.

The rain water flows into the barrel through a pipe
between the real and the false bottom. About four feet
above the cask the leader from the roof should enter a
tin box, with a partition in the middle that comes within
about two inches of the top. This partition separates
the pipe that flows into the cask from the waste pipe,
and the leader from the roof can be made to discharge on
either side, as may be desired. Near the bottom
of the barrel should be a large faucet or bung-hole,
through which all the water may be drawn off and
the filter cleaned. By pulling out the bung or opening
the faucet, and, after the water has run out, pouring
several bucketfuls of water on the sand at the top, all
impurities are washed out and carried off ; in fact, it is
best to let out the water after every rain. If this filter
is well made, and the cask painted, it will last many
years and do good service,

116

FARM APPLIANCES.

CONNECTING CISTEBNS.

When it is desired to connect a new cistern with an
old one without loss of water, it can be done as shown in
figure 142. Whatever the distance apart, provide a two-

Fig. 142. — COXXECTESG TWO CISTEBSS.

inch iron pipe, a, long enough to extend from the inside
of the new well to the outside of the old one, and fit
upon the right end of it by screw thread the pipe, b,
long enough to extend well through the old wall. Build
a into the new well, and close its left end with a wooden
plug, p. When ready, pump or syphon the water from
the old to the new cistern. Then open the old wall,
screw b on to a, and cement around b. When ready,
with a rod or bar, knock out the plug, which will float to
the top, and the water will stand at a level in both cis-
terns. A connecting five or six-iuch glaze ware or iron
pipe, c, should be put in on a level with the overflow
pipe, o. One pump' and one overflow pipe answer for
both cisterns.

wells, pumps, cisterns, filters. 117

build and dimension of cisterns.

In a stiff clay soil a small cistern of twenty to forty
barrels capacity might be safely cemented directly to the
earth, but in ordinary soils and for larger cisterns, a good
four-inch- wall of hard brick is on the whole the cheap-
est. It is important to make the excavation smooth, so
'that the bricks can be pressed firmly against the earth ;
otherwise these will be pushed out and the cement cracked,
causing a leak. As to the dimensions, a cistern should
be about one-fourth deeper below the spring of the arch,
than its width inside. By this rule a cistern eight feet
wide will be ten feet deep below the arch. At the top is
a cast iron ring, twenty inches in diameter, for the man-
hole, covered with a tight fitting cast iron lid. The
ring has a flange two inches wide extending out over the
brick. The capacity of a cistern needed to save all the
water from a given extent of roof, will depend on the
total annual rainfall, its distribution throughout the
year, and the regularity with which it is used. A roof
ninety feet by twenty feet contains eighteen hundred
square feet. This is supposed to be the measure of the
building on the ground and not the shingled surface. In
the vicinity of New York the average annual rainfall is
about forty-two inches, or three and a half feet. Xhis
Jwould give sixty-three hundred cubic feet of water (1,800
ft. X 3ya=6,300). Since in that climate the rain is dis-
tributed pretty regularly through the year, it would only
be necessary to provide storage capacity for about one-third
of the rainfall of the year, or twenty-one hundred cubic
feet. This divided by four and one-fifth (the approxi-
mate number of cubic feet in a barrel of thirty-one and
a half gallons) gives five hundred barrels, and this quantity
of water demands a cistern, thirteen feet diameter, to be
nearly sixteen feet deep below the arch, or a square one,
thirteen feet across, to be nearly twelve and a half feet

118

FARM APPLIANCES.

deep ; or a round one, fifteen feet in diameter, would need
to be about twelve feet deep. In the far West — in fact,
in most places west of the Missouri — the rainfall is
largely during the six months beginning with March,
and cisterns need a greater storage capacity.

CISTERNS WITH FILTERS.

Complaints are frequent of the impure water of cis-
terns. This is inevitable under the careless manage-
ment of these useful additions to the water supply, and
is a fruitful source of what are called " malarial dis-

Fig. 143.— A COMPLETE CISTEBN.

eases." A roof gathers a large quantity of impure mat-
ter, dead insects, droppings of birds, dust, dead leaves,
pollen from trees, etc., etc., all of which are washed into
the cistern, unless some means are taken to prevent it.
Even then the water should be filtered before it is used
for culinary purposes. Oue way of preventing foul mat-
ter from entering the cistern, is to have the leader mov-

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTERS.

119

able, and swing from a waste pipe to the cistern pipe, shown
on the left side of figure 143. In dry weather the pipe

Fig. 144. — COMPLETE CISTERN AND FILTER.

is turned over the waste, and after the rain has fallen for
a sufficient time to wash off the roofs and gutters, it is
turned into the cistern pipe. The cistern, figure 143 is
provided with a soft brick wall laid in cement, through
which the water filters, coming out by the pump per-
fectly pure, and free from unpleasant odors. Rain water

Fig. 145. — FILTER FOR A BARN CISTERN.

standing for months in impurities and filth, cannot al-
ways be purified by simply soaking through a brick wall,

120

FARM APPLIANCES.

but should be filtered as soon as it falls. The main cis-
tern, figure 144, is made egg-shaped, to hold one hun-
dred barrels. The filter is flat-bottomed. The end of
the pipe from the filter to the cistern is built solid

Fig. 146. — A HOUSE FTLTEBIXG CISTEBN.

around the end with brick. All water has to pass
through the brick. The filter is filled half full with
charcoal, sand and gravel in layers — one layer of each —
the charcoal covering the bricks, then sand and gravel
on top. The water, as soon as it falls, begins to filter
and passes into- the cistern, where it stands free from
impurities. The filter is built to hold twenty-five barrels
of water, but is half full of the filtering material.

Figure 145 shows a good filter for a barn cistern. The
top of it consists of broken stones, with a fiat stone to
receive the influx, so placed as to prevent heavy rains
from disturbing the broken stones. This has a cover,
movable in part, to permit it to be cleaned out occasion-
ally. Figure 146 is a filtering cistern for a house. The
inlet pipe is at a, the draw pipe is at c. and this is con-

WELLS, PUMPS, CISTERNS, FILTERS.

121

nected with a set of cross-pipes, laid in the coarse gravel
in the bottom, and pierced with a number of small holes,

Fig. 147. — PIPES FOR HOUSE CISTERN.

as seen in figure 147, by which the outflow is made quite
easy and abundant.

CHAPTER VI.

APPLIANCES FOR HANDLING HAY AND CORN
FODDER.

REVOLVING HORSE RAKE.

Figure 148 shows a strong, cheap and efficient horse
rake. It is especially useful in raking corn-stalks that
have been cut by a mower or otherwise, and tall reeds
and other rubbish, which it is desirous to rake into wind-
rows preparatory to burning. It can also be adapted to
the raking of hay and straw, by making the teeth lighter
and placing them six inches or less apart.

Figure 149 represents the rake and shafts, a being a
six by eix-inch beam, ten feet long. This revolving rake

122 FAttM APPLIANCES.

can be made longer or shorter as desired, but when more
than nine or ten feet long, it is not easily drawn through
ordinary farm gates. The teeth are made of some kind
of tough wood, well seasoned, two inches square, and the

Fig. 148. — BODT OF BAKE.

pieces cut about four feet long. They are then tapered
slightly toward the ends, and trimmed in the middle to
fit in holes bored with a two-inch auger ; thus prepared,
they are inserted one foot apart, and secured in place
with light bolts. At b, b, the beam is rounded to form
journals, and around these the ends of the shafts can be

Fig. 149. — BAKE WITH SHAFTS.

bent, as seen in figure 149, or pieces of old iron, as the
tire of an old wheel, may be curved round and secured to
the shafts. Two stout pieces of the same length as the
teath, and at right angle to those, are inserted between
the shafts. These rest on the lever, d} when the rake ia

HANDLING HAY AND COfcN FODDER.

123

moving, and serve to hold it in position with the teeth
pointed toward the ground. The lever is hinged to a
shaft at e by a bolt, and by pulling the handle, /, when
in motion, the support is taken from the check teeth,

Fig. 150.— RAKE FOR TWO HORSES.

and the rake turns, depositing its load, and bringing the
other row of teeth to the ground.

An implement of the above dimensions is too heavy
for one horse; hence the shafts are intended to be hooked
to the hind axle of a naked wagon, and thus worked by a
team, the driver riding on the wagon and operating the
lever whenever the rake is full.

The rake can also be made with a pole, so as to hitch
a team directly to it, as shown in figure 150. The beam
should then have three journals instead of two, and the
number of teeth even, so that the pole can be attached at
the middle.

124 FARM APPLIANCES.

CARE OF MOWING MACHINES.

Take up the wear of the boxes by removing the stuffing.
If the journals have too much play they cut fast. But if
the boxes fit too closely, they will heat. The thickness
of newspaper all around each is sufficient play. Examine
all the nuts and tighten any that are loose. A loose nut
will cause the machine to wear or break; and will lose
off in the field, causing a vexatious delay at the least. If
any nut is very loose, place a leather washer under it,
and sink the nut in. Make quite sure that there is no
weak place in the whiffletrees. They always break at the
wrong time, and may allow the machine and the team
to mire down in a muddy spot. Mind the sickles. Every
mower should have three sickles, so that as soon as one
becomes dulled, another may be put in its place. A dull
sickle does " ragged" cutting, and will increase the wear
and draft of the machine one half. Observe if the sickle
bar is not warped; and if the points of the sections are in
a perfectly straight line. A section out of line will wear
fast and increase the draft. Try the sections and tighten
any that are loose. A loose section is apt to cause a
breakage. A loose guard will produce the same result.
See that the tool-box contains claw-hammer, pincers,
file, sections, rivets, bolts, wire and nails ; the lack of
these will often require a trip from the field to the tool-
house. If any journals have rusted, use coal oil, every
few minutes, for the first half hour, driving slowly ; and
it is well to use coal oil on the track of the sickle, to
clear off the gum that gathers from the grass. The
machine oil often sold is poor stuff ; it is frequently neces-
sary to add castor oil to give it body. If too much of
the latter is used, however, it will gum. There is nothing
more satisfactory than lard (unsalted) with castor oil
added to give it a little body. If the lard is taken to
the field hot, in the morning, the sun will keep it liqui-

HANDLING HAY AND CORN FODDER. 125

fied during the day. It is not economy to be sparing in
the use of oil ; it should be applied quite often, and but
little at a time. When much of it is applied at once, it
runs from the journals, and holds dust, increasing in-
stead of diminishing the wear. When stopping at noon,
throw some grass over the sickle and the driver journals,
if you cannot drive the machine into the shade. Do not
mow too close. It dulls and wears the sickle, and gains
nothing — what is gained in hay is more than lost in the
aftermath. Drive slowly, but steadily, and thus get
the most done with least wear of team and machine.
Driving " in spurts " for half a day will wear the machine
more than steady driving for two days. Keep the edges
of the grass straight ; in other words, cut the full width
of the sickle, for otherwise you cannot do economical
work. Using a mower properly lengthens its life and in-
creases the amount of work it will do in a day.

SWEEP FOR GATHERING HAY.

The implement shown in figure 151 is made by having
two by four inch pieces of twelve feet long for teeth,

Fis;. 151. — HAT SWEEP.

held together by a piece of two by six inch stuff, sixteen
feet long, with a bolt through each tooth ; two fence strips

126 farm: appliances.

of inch staff, six inches wide, keep them from spreading.
Three or four upright two by four posts, four feet high,
with cross fence strips, are set on the main beam. This
holds the hay, and is braced at each end, as shown in the
engraving. There is on the bottom of each end runner,
a shoe one foot wide, two inches thick, and two or three
feet long, to give the teeth a downward inclination. The
teeth are tapered from the underside at each end, so as
not to run into the ground. There is an iron ring at the
bottom of each end post, to which ropes are fastened.
These ropes are sixteen feet long or more, and a whiffle-
tree is attached to the end of each. This contrivance
takes up the hay to the stack, and picks up any dropped
hay going back.

HAULING HAT OR STALKS.

Figure 152 shows a device for hauling an entire cock
of hay. It is made thus: First, get a pole, elm if pos-
sible, ten or eleven feet long, and about four inches
through at the butt. Peel off the bark, trim smooth,

Fie. 152. — device fob hauling hat or stales.

and sharpen to a point. Bore two holes near each other
at the butt: pass a short piece of rope through the pole,
and tie to the link on a single tree. Bore another hole a
foot from the end, and pass through it a long one-inch
rope, shorter on one side, and tie a knot on the rope on
each side of the pole. When ready to commence hauling
push the pole under the hay-cock, then take the long end
of the rope, and pass it along side the hay-cock, and.

HANDLING HAY AND COEN FODDER.

127

under the point of the pole, then through a loop in the
short end, and draw tight and tie. By this method, no
hay is lost on the way; it cannot roll over, nor get tangled.
There is no waste, no time is lost, and the hay is laid at
the feet of the pitcher just as it stood in the field. This
device may also be used for hauling corn fodder or un-
husked stooks.

DERRICK FOR STACKING.

Figure 153 shows a derrick, which is very convenient
in stacking hay out-doors. The two side-pieces are mor-

Fig. 153.— HAT DERKICK.

tised into the sill ; the mast, or top stick, is not fastened,
hence it can be taken out when moving any great dis-
tance. When moving only a few feet, hitch a horse to
the sill, and drag it endways without taking it down, to
where another stack is to be. The derrick and horse are

128

FAKM APPLIANCES.

on one side of the stack, and the load of hay on the
other. The derrick stands at almost forty-five degrees,
and is held in place by guy ropes — two opposite to the
load, and one on the same side as the load. A solid
piece of plank is used for the foot of the mast, which is
mortised into it. It is best to put it together with bolts.

HAY CARRIER FOR HORSE FORK.

Figure 154 shows an ingenious device for returning a
horse hay-fork from the hay-mow to the loaded wagon.
It consists of a wire rope, C, stretched from the end
of the track, A, to a wooden cylinder, B, four inches in

Fig. 154. — IMPROVED HAY-CABRIEK.

diameter and sixteen inches long, around which a few
turns are given. Two short stakes, D, D, cut from a
four- by-four-inch scantling and driven slantingly into
the ground, hold the roller in position. A grooved pul-
ley, E, runs freely on the wire, and from its axis is sus-
pended a fifty pound weight, F. The rope, G. runs over
the pulley, H, which is firmly attached to the lower side

HANDLING HAT AND CORN FODDER.

129

of the track. The wire-rope is made of three wire
clothes-lines twisted together. When in use, the upper
end of the cord is attached to the rope which carries the
fork. It is thus carried up with the loaded fork, and
brings it back by gravitation when empty.

HAY BARRACKS.

Figure 155 shows barracks constructed by setting four
posts, of chestnut, or white oak, twenty or twenty-five
feet long, straight, partly squared to eight inches
through, either three feet in the ground or upon sills.
If upon sills, these are hewed upon one side and at the

Fig. 155. — BARRACK WITH BOARD ROOF.

ends, where they are halved together. In doing this, it
is well to pin the ends with two inch oak tree-nails,
which should stand up three or four inches above the
sills when in place. Then when the posts are set at the
corners, the pins will enter holes bored in the center of
each post, and hold them in position. They will last as
long as the posts and sills. For a temporary purpose,

130

FARM APPLIANCES.

the posts may be simply set in the ground, twelve feet
apart ; but if permanency is desired, it is best to use sills,
set level upon a flat stone at each corner, and sup-
ported in the middle. The posts must, moreover, be
braced to the sills, either by diagonal braces, or straight
rails, roughly squared, two by four, mortised into the
posts at a height of four feet above the sills, or at a height
of six feet, in case the barrack may be intended to be
boarded up to make a stable. They make very good

Fig. 156.

BARRACK WITH THATCHED ROOF.

Fig. 157.

MANNER OP RAISING.

shelter for young cattle or horses, the inside between the
sills being filled up level with stones, and finished with a
layer of cement concrete. The cover, or roof, must be
as light as is consistent with strength and efficacy, and
may be of boards, or thatch, the latter being by far the
most picturesque, and being lighter, it is easier to raise
and lower. Before the posts are set, they are bored with
inch holes, either twelve or fourteen inches apart, from
the top down, exactly in the middle line, each set per-
fectly level, and pass through the posts in the ;?me di-
rection. Four pins of three-quarter inch iron, fourteen
inches long, turned up a little at one end, and bent

HANDLING HAY AND CORN FODDER. 131

slightly downward to prevent rolling, are the roof sup-
ports. They are put into a set of low holes on the out-
sides of the posts, and two straight oak rails, sixteen to
twenty inches longer than the space between the posts,
are laid upon them. Then across the ends of these, and
outside the posts, two similar rails are laid, the ends
being temporarily bound together at the corners. These
form the plates for the roof. One-third pitch is usually
given, and the ends extend ten inches, or a foot, beyond
the plates. A good coat of paint will make the roof
quite durable, and prevent the boards from warping. To
make a thatched roof, figure 156, nice, straight, light
hoop poles are selected, which, if too heavy, must be
split. These are for rafters. If binding poles are used,
they must be mere rods, like light whip stocks. The
rafter poles are laid up and bound at the ends, and to the
cross-poles with tarred rope-yarn, but nailed to the plates.
They are placed about eighteen inches apart, but the light
split cross poles, about a foot to fourteen inches apart.
The straw is laid on in handf uls, beginning at the eaves,
and bound with rope yarn to the cross poles, or in courses,
and bound down by tying the tough, slender maple rods,
to the cross poles. Of course, the straw is kept even,
and in courses, butts outward, and trimmed evenly with
shears. When laid, the straw must be well evened at
the butts, and dampened so as to pack nicely and not
break in handling. These covers should be as light as
possible, and be consistent with strength. They are
raised and lowered one corner at a time, which may
usually be done by one man, though more conveniently
by two. To raise the roof, a ladder of suitable length is
set under the lower plate pole of one corner, as shown in
figure 157, the end of the pole being allowed to pass
through between the rounds of the ladder, which is then
lifted either by main strength, or by a rail used as a lever,
and held in position until some one going up another

132

FARM APPLIANCES.

ladder, can lift the pin which supports it. This is, of
course, done at each corner, and thus the roof is raised,
one peg at a time. It is lowered in the same manner by
reversing the operation.

SUPPORTS FOR STACKS.

In stacking straw or hay, when stock is permitted to
feed upon it during the winter, it is unsafe to leave the
stack without support. The danger is that the stacks
may be undermined, and fall over upon the animals.

Fig. 15S.— FRAME FOE STRAW OK HAT STACK.

jThis will not happen if a stout support is made, as shown ■
in figure 158. A few strong posts are set firmly in the
ground, and planks spiked on the side as shown ; the
cattle can eat the straw from between the planks, and
may eat the stack entirely through without danger of its
being buried by over-turning. When the crib thus made
is filled, the stack is topped off in the usual manner,
being well spread over the eaves to shed the rain, and,
as it is eaten out below, the straw settles down gradually.
It is quite easy to cover a stack so made with a roof, so
as to form a very cheap barrack. In the summer, by a
little change, this will make a good calf or sheep pen.

HANDLING HAT AND COKN PODDEK.

133

HOME-MADE HAY PRESS.

The press shown in figures 159, 160, and 161 may be
made wholly of wood, hewn to the right size, and put
together with wooden pins. The frame, figure 159, is
four feet long inside of the posts, and three feet wide. The

Fig. 159.— FRAME OF HAT PRESS.

height is eight feet. The movable bottom is raised by
ropes which pass over pulleys or rollers, if no iron is to be
used, and are wound upon the rollers at the bottom.
This roller is moved by bars to be inserted in mortises cut
in the roller, similar to the manner used in moving a
windlass, or a capstan on shipboard. A movable door is
made to fit the bottom of the press on one side, for the
purpose of removing the bale after it is pressed. The

134

FARM APPLIANCES.

bale is bound with a strong cord, pieces of which are
placed on the bottom and others on the top, as shown in

Tig. 160.— EST) (IIW OF HAT PB.ESS.

1 1 1

•

. . * " . .

iTI

pHii

l/lll/J

'/I

I.UMi'

, .

1 |VI *

FiS. 161. — MOVABLE BOTTOM.

figure 159. and the ends are fastened when the bale is
-ed as tightly as possible. It is then reduced to two

HANDLING HAY AND CORN FODDER. 135

and one-half feet in thickness, and eight of these bales
will make a ton. The hay is easily transported in wagons
when baled, and the press can be moved from one mea-
dow to another as the hay is cut and pressed, or it will

Fig. 162.— HAT BALE.

be more convenient at times to drive the cattle to the hay
rather than move the hay to the cattle. Figure 160
shows the end view of the press, figure 161, the movable
bottom, and figure 162, the pressed bale. When the
iron can be procured without great expense, it might be
well to use the pulleys and slotted wheels as here shown,
but otherwise these parts may be made of wood.

TWISTING HAT AND STRAW.

The machine figures 163 to 167, consists of two two-by
four bars, nine feet long, figure 163, straight and true,
and of even thickness and width. They are bolted to-
gether at each end, and separated by a block four inches
square and two inches thick, at one end a, and a piece
of two-by-four stuff, three feet long, at I. A pulley is
set at c, about thirty-nine inches from the end a. Fig-

136

FARM APPLIAKCES.

ure 164 shows frame of back end (A, figure 167), a being
a piece of two-by-four, four feet long; b, b, two uprights,
one-by-four, six feet long ; c, a two-by-four, three feet
long ; d, a one-by-four, three feet long ; they are firmly

Fig. 163.— THE BABS, OE WATS.

nailed together as shown, the upper edge of c, being half
way up from bottom. Figure 165 is the same as figure
164, except the lower piece a is only three feet long. The
five converging pieces are of some springy wood. They
are attached by screws, three to the upper cross-pieces
and two to the middle one, and prevent the hay going
too fast out of the rack. Figure 166 shows a " follower"
(f, figure 164), a being two-by-four, twelve inches long,
b, two-by-four, twenty-six inches long, framed or halved
on a ; c is a brace of one-inch board ; d, d, two pieces of
board, the lower one eight inches wide, six inches long,

Fig. 164.

Fig. 165.

the upper twelve inches wide, sixteen inches long ; they
are firmly attached to b by nails and screws as shown,
and the brace c is then nailed in place. The " twister "
is made of seven-sixteenths round iron, nine inches long

HANDLING HA.Y AND CORN FODDER.

137

from crank to hook, five inch crank, three and a half
inch handle. The hook is turned so as to have a twist
like a corkscrew, so that it will woik in and catch the
hay up of itself ; two washers are put on that fit the
rod snugly and four inches apart, by placing shaft in a
vice ; a nick with a cold chisel on each side of shaft on
outside of each washer, will keep them in place. This is
made fast upon a piece of two-by-four, twelve inches
long, the upper end grooved out so that the shaft will
set in about half way, then beveled off as shown ; the
shaft is fastened in place by a couple of strips of hoop

1~~

\
1

5 tT a

Fig. 167. — THE COMPLETE MACHINE (STRAW-TWISTEK).

iron, bent over it and nailed or screwed in place ; two
strips are screwed on the sides, and a piece of board on
^he bottom end, as shown, leaving space between the two
so that it will work freely on the ways, figure 163, when
in place as shown in figure 167. Figure 167 shows the
machine complete, A being figure 164, B, figure 165, in
their places, c, showing boarding of rack, the edges of
which show in figure 164 and 165 ; it is nailed to the
upper piece and to the ways. Wis a weight to bring the
follower, figure 166, forward as fast as hay is used out,
and keeps the hay firm and in its place against the wooden
springs; the weight may be a stone, or box filled with iron
or scraps. In use, draw the follower back, and run the

138

FARM APPLIANCES.

pin, /, in hole bored through ways and follower, fill in the
rack from top with hay, just mowed or slightly damp,
pressing it in snugly, then draw out pin /", slide carriage
g up to rack ; by turning crank the hook will catch up a
lock of the hay, then keep turning and drawing carriage
away at the same time, and it will twist out a rope of hay,
this is doubled, and ends fastened by crowding through
loops. If you can get some drawer rollers to set in the
follower and on the carriage, it will work much easier.

\lf

-E-i=i

tPti

Fig. 168. WESTPHALTAK STBAW-TWT9TEB. Fig. 169.

Figures 168 and 169 show a form of straw-twister,
which has long been in use in Westphalia, Germany. A
board of hard wood, half an inch thick, four and a half
inches wide and five feet long, is shaped as in figure 168,
and has an inch hole in the center. A piece of the same
stuff, five inches square, also with an inch hole (a in the

HANDLING HAY AND CORN FODDER. 139

engravings), is attached to the large piece by means of
long wooden pins, and stands three inches from it, the
holes in the two exactly corresponding. A shaft of hard
wood, b, figure 169, is square at the end, where the crank
c, is attached, and round where it passes through the
two holes. This shaft is held in place by the pins, d, d,
which should be so set as to allow it to turn freely. An-
other wooden pin, e, passes through the shaft and pro-
jects an inch and a half on each side. In making the
rope, two men are required. The straw having been
slightly moistened by sprinkling from a watering can,
one takes a bunch and fastens it to the pin e. The other
operator takes the machine with his left hand, at b, fig-
ure 168, and with the lower end against his foot, turns
the crank; he gradually moves away from the other,
pushing the machine along with his foot, while keeping
the crank in motion, and the other supplies straw as re-
quired. The latter sits upon a low stool, and his right
hand should be protected by a stout leather glove or a
piece of leather. When the rope is about a hundred feet
long, or it becomes difficult to turn the crank, it is rolled
into a ball, and a new one begun. The rope is finally
made into balls of convenient size.

STANDARD FOR CORN SHOCKS.

The best standard is made by bending four hills to-
gether— two diagonal hills being lapped and twisted to-
gether. But to such a standard it can be objected, that
a knife must be carried along to cut the stalks loose when
the fodder is brought in from the fields, and that these
stalks cannot be stood straight in the rick. Some prefer
a movable wooden standard, of which a very good sort is
shown in figure 170. A light pole, twelve or fifteen feet
long, is provided with two upright supports ; holes are

140 FARM APPLIANCES.

bored through the pole about five feet from one end, and
through the ends of the uprights, and a bolt passed
through the holes and secured by a nut. The holes
should be so large that the uprights can be spread a foot
apart at the bottom. Midway between the uprights and
the end of the pole, another hole is bored, through
which a cross-bar is put. In the four angles formed by

Fig. 170.— FODDEB CORK STA>DABD.

the intersection of the pole and the cross-bar, the fodder
is set. When the shock reaches out to the support, the
cross-bar is pulled out, and the pole can be removed.
Some prefer to have the supports and cross-bar near to-
gether, about four feet from the pole. The shock is
built around the supports. When done, the cross-bar is
pulled out, and as the pole is removed, the supports are
brought close together, and do not hinder.

YESTTILATOR FOR STACKS.

A large quantity of corn fodder is spoiled for want of
proper care in drying and stacking. It is not easy to hit
the happy mean, between the sufficient drying of the
stalks, and the over-drying of the leaves. But it can be
done perfectly in the stack, by the use of the ventilator,
figure 171. This consists of three or four poles or bars,
fastened together with cross-slats, and made to fit one
upon another. Such a ventilator, which may be four or
six feet long, is set on the foundation for the stack, and

HANDLING HAY AND CORN FODDER. 141

passes upwards through it, leaving a perfect chimney
and air passage in the center of the fodder. More than

Fig. 171. — VENTILATOR FOR STACK.

one can be used if desired. These ventilators are useful
in stacks of hay or grain, which may be a little damp.

BENCH FOR HUSKING.

Figure 172 represents a very comfortable and light
husking stool ; it is made long and wide enough to hold

Fig. 172. — HUSKING STOOL.

a sheaf of stalk, and is provided with a seat, or may
have one on both sides, if desired. If one can procure

14:2 FARM APPLIANCES.

some crooks of cedar or other light wood, such as is used
in rustic work, they will serve yery well for the ends. The
seats may be removed when the stools are not required,
and may then serve for benches in the dairy or for
household purposes.

CORN-STALK BAND.

Stalks altogether dry or altogether green are not to be
selected, as they will break when it is attempted to
twist them. Long, slender stalks are desirable. The
first stalk is broken at a right angle about two feet from
the but ; the but is then forced into the shock as far as
the break, when the remainder of the stalk is passed

173. — CORN-STALK BAND.

around the shock, breaking it carefully every eight or
ten inches, until the tassel point is almost reached. Then
another stalk is inserted in the shock. The top of the
first stalk is broken every three inches between the
thumb and fingers, and twisted around the second stalk,
which is then broken and passed around the shock as in

HANDLING HAY AND CORN FODDER. 143

the case of the first one. This is continued until the
last stalk reaches the first one, when it is secured by
twisting it as in the case of the others, or by drawing it
down between the shock and the first stalk, just in front
of the break, forming a loop below, through which a
.piece of stalk, two feet long, is passed and driven into
the shock. In figure 173 is shown the appearance of the
band as it would be, if the shock could be removed after
the band is completed.

CONVENIENT FODDER CARRIER.

On farms where the corn-stalks are left in the field to
be carted to the yard as wanted, the use of a convenient
carrier saves much work and time. Such a one is shown.

Fig. 174. — FODDER CARRIER.

in figure 174. It consists of the front wheels, axle, bol-
ster and pole of a common farm-wagon, with the ends of
two poles, or a common cord-wood rack fastened to the
bolster. The other ends of the poles drag on the ground.
A cross-piece, three feet long, is securely fastened to the
poles about three feet from their lower ends, and two up-
right stakes, four or five feet long, complete the arrange-
ment of this farm convenience.

CHAPTEE VII.

STUMP-PULLERS, DERRICKS AND SLLNGS.
STUMP-PULLERS.

Figure 175 shows a very powerful machine for pulling
stumps. The woodwork is made of well-seasoned oak,
the winding shaft being eight inches iu diameter and five
feet long. The lower block, in which it revolves, is six-
teen inches square and three inches thick, having a hole
cut just large enough to receive the winding shaft, and is
fastened securely to the middle brace at the bottom. To
prevent the splitting of the winding shaft, two stout iron
bands are shrunk immediately above and below where the
lever or sweep is inserted. An old gear-wheel, with the
spokes knocked out, is fastened to the top cross-piece or
head-block, to receive the traveling ratchet attached to the
shaft. The upright pieces of the frame are of two by
eight inch oak, three and a half feet high ; the top cross-
piece or head-block two by sixteen inch oak, narrowing to
twelve inches at the ends, and three feet long. The frame
is set on runners four feet long, two by ten inch oak, so
the implement can be quickly moved from place to place ;
the entire frame is mortised together. The anchor is of ,
one-inch round iron, and attached as shown in the illus-
tration, and a strong iron pulley-block is used on the
opposite side. In pulling large stumps, a chain is more
reliable than a rope. A single horse furnishes the motive
power at the end of the lever or sweep, which is ten feet
long.

Figure 176 shows a cheaper and lighter stump-puller.

The only expense is for the chain, links of one and a half

to two inch tough iron, or tough-tempered steel ; ring,

ten to twelve inches in diameter, and the hook, all of

(144)

STUMP-PULLERS, DERRICKS, SLINGS.

145

1-16

FARM APPLIANCES.

which any blacksmith can make. The point of the hook
must be formed so that it will strike in toward the heart
of the stump and not tear loose on partially decayed wood.
The lever may be twelve to twenty feet long, its size de-
pending on the quality of the wood and the force to nan-

Fig. 176. — A SIMPLE STUMP-PULLER.

die it. A lever twenty feet long on a stump two feet in
diameter, would exert a force of ten tons for each one
thousand pounds of direct pull by the team. Though
many durable, long-rooted stumps would not yield to
this, the large majority of ordinary stumps, after decay-
ing a year or two, can thus be cleared out, with most of
the roots.

Figure 177 shows a stump-puller used in New Zealand.
The thread of the screw works both ways and gradually
draws each chain nearer the center, where the screw is

Fig. 177. — XE"W ZEALAJTD STTTMP-PULLEB.

turned by a movable bar. One end of the chain is fast-
ened around one stump, and the other around a second ;
then when the screw is turned, whichever stump is the
less firm in the ground is bound to be pulled out. The
screw is readily worked by a man, though it will, as a
rule, require two persons to work it on heavy land,

STUMP-PULLERS, DERRICKS, SLLNGS.

147

DERRICKS FOR FARM USE.

Where there is much handling of heavy barrels or
sacks, one man, with some simple, mechanical contriv-
ance, can easily do the work of two or three, working by
main strength. A boom derrick, figure 178, hung high,
so that the weight shall be lifted from the ground ordi-
narily, when the derrick swings horizontally, is very con-
venient. A post is banded, and has a strong dowel at
each end. The lower dowel is set in a stone fixed in the
ground, close to the building where it is to be used, the

Fig. 178.— A BOOM DERRICK.

Fig. 179.— ETE-BOLT.

upper one in a strong oak cleat, bolted to the building.
At the height of about five or six feet from the ground,
an eye-bolt passes through the post, and another is fixed
at the top. The boom is fastened to the lower eye-bolt
by a three-quarter inch hooked iron, attached as shown
in figure 179, while the other end of the boom has a band
with two eyes. This boom is a spar or pole, stiff enough
to bear the strain without doubling up or breaking, and
may be ten or fifteen feet long. The end of the boom is
raised or lowered by a pair of single pulleys, or by a

148 FARM APPLIANCES.

double block tackle, which, will exert much greater pow-
er. When the weight is lifted, as out of a cellar-way, it
may be swung around over a wagon and lowered into it.
A convenient derrick for raising slaughtered animals,
for suspending heavy hogs in scalding, and dressing beeves,
and for sundry other purposes, can be cheaply and quick-
ly made thus : Take three scantlings two by six inches,
and fourteen feet long, or any other desired length and
strength. Round poles will answer, by hewing flat on
two sides a small portion of the upper ends. Bore cor-
responding holes in the top of each, and insert a strong
iron bolt, with large head on one end, and large nut and
screw on the other. Let the bolt fit loosely, to allow a
little play. These pieces can fold together for storage,
and be raised to any desired height short of perpendicu-
lar. Bore a series of small holes along the upper sides
of two poles, for movable iron pins, or larger ones for
wooden pins. These may be fastened in, or better, have
two loose pins for moving to higher or lower holes. By
placing the feet of these two poles against firmly driven
stakes, and drawing the third and rear pole inward, the
center will be elevated with considerable force, the power
required decreasing as the timbers approach a perpendic-
ular, when a beef carcass, for instance, is nearly lifted
from the ground, and hangs more heavily. If desired or
necessary, horse power can be applied by using a rope
with a clevis or otherwise, attaching it to a double-tree
or to a whiffletree. A single horse will be sufficient for
raising a large carcass by means of this tripod derrick.

SLINGS FOR HOISTING HEAVY OBJECTS.

When one has bags to hoist by a block, or simply by a
fall, from the barn floor to the loft, rope or chain slings
are 'almost essential. The simplest sling to operate is

STUMP- PULLERS, DERRICKS, SLINGS.

i49

formed on the end of the fall-rope, as shown in figure
180. This consists simply of an oak stick, half an inch

Fig. 180.

Fig. 181.— CHAIN-SLLSG.

thick, two inches wide and six inches long, having two
three-quarter inch holes bored, one near each end.
Through one of these the end of the rope passes, then it

Fig. 182.— E>T)LESS ROPE-SLING.

is drawn through the other and knotted strongly. The
mouth of the bag being caught in the bight of the loop,

150 farm appliances.

it may be safely hoisted, for the greater the weight the
tighter will be the hold.

Next to this, and still more convenient, is the chain-
sling, figure 181. The fall-rope is terminated by a chain
with twisted links, which ends in a ring, and so a loop
is made to* take the bag, or simply the bag's mouth.
Like the rope-sling, it will hold fast all the bags that
it can be made to surround. For hoisting many bags at
a time, nothing is more convenient and safe than an end-
less rope, figure 182, cut eighteen to twenty feet long,
and the ends spliced together. This is laid upon the
floor, forming a long, narrow loop ; the bags are laid
upon it, resting evenly on both side ropes, then the ends
are brought together, one is passed through the other,
so as to act like a noose, and hooked over the fall-rope,
which should terminate in a strong hook, as shown in
the engraving.

DERRICK FOR A CELLAR.

The carrier shown in figure 183 is similar to those used
for hay, but more simple in construction. Four iron
wheels are attached with bolts, which serve as axles, to
two-by-four-inch oak blocks. The connecting bars hold-
ing the blocks together are made of old wagon-wheel tire,
and joined together below the carrier, by a cross-bar of
the same material, bearing a hook. The track is made
of a bent two-by-four-inch scantling, to each side of
which are bolted oak strips one inch thick, forming a
roadway for the wheels. To the outer end of the track
is fastened a pulley, over which passes the rope attached
to the carrier. "When the lead runs into the cellar the
rope moves along in the groove under the track. In re-
moving heavy articles from the cellar, the end of the rope
is attached to a windlass, set a short distance from the

STUMP-PULLERS, DERRICKS, SLINGS.

151

cellar door. When not in use, the carrier may be taken
down and laid aside out of the way. This device has

Fig. 183.— A CELLAR CARRIER.

been used in a cellar, where four hundred bushels of
apples and potatoes were stored, and the owner would not
part with it, if he could not obtain another. With it one
man can place a hundred barrels of apples in a cellar, or
remove them, as easily as he could as many pecks with
his hands alone.

LEVER APPARATUS FOR LIFTING.

The implement shown in figure 184 is very useful for
many purposes on the farm. Mortise a post of three by

Fig. 184. — CONVENIENT LIFTING APPARATUS.

three-inch stuff into a piece of two-inch plank. In the
top of this saw a slot, one and a half inch wide, to re-

152

FARM APPLIANCES.

oeive the lever of the same thickness, four inches wide,
and with the short arm, three feet long, and the long
arm, six feet long. To the long arm is fastened a piece
of chain, and to the short arm another piece, provided
with a hook at the free end. Having the long arm of the
lever twice as long as the short arm, one can easily lift a
weight twice his own. It is surprising how often there
is use for this. It can be used to lift sacks of grain into
the wagon ; logs on the sled or saw-horse ; the bed off
the wagon ; the mower over an obstruction when putting

Fig. 185.— improved lifting apparatus.

it in the barn ; and for some other things nearly every
other day. By making the chain on the short lever long
enough, it can be passed around a log or sack, and hooked
very quickly.

The improvement shown in figure 185 consists in having
the long arm of the lever longer and the short arm a
very little shorter, giving a greater advantage. As the
short arm of the lever is brought up, the free end of the
chain is shortened; hence, it will lift the weight a greater
height. With the first device one can lift a weight only
three feet conveniently.

A HOME-MADE HORSE-POWER.

The worst disposition which can be made of a worn-out
farm machine of any kind, is to lay it up by the fence in

STUMP-PULLERS, DERRICKS, SLLtfGS. 153

the dooryard or barnyard, to be an eyesore for years, and
a possible source of danger to domestic animals, or even
to persons passing hastily or carelessly near it. The
better plan is to take the machine to pieces, set aside any
unsound or broken wood for fuel, sell whatever iron is
not likely to be useful in its present shape, and carefully
store away in a suitable place the remaining parts,
whether of wood or iron, particularly bolts, gearing, etc.
With a little ingenuity, and perhaps a slight outlay of
money, wheels and shafts from disabled reapers, mowers
or other machines may be put together to form a light
horse-power, which will be found very serviceable in
driving feed-cutter, corn-sheller, or farm-mill. In the
construction of a horse-power certain general principles
must be kept in mind, otherwise failure, more or less
complete, will be the result. The different parts must
be sufficiently strong to bear the strain to which they
will be subjected ; the bearings need to be true, and the
whole bo securely braced and held together, that any
slipping of cogs will be impossible. The rate of speed
must be from seventy-two to one hundred and sixty rev-
olutions of the cutting-box shaft for every one of the
horse, the first being rather low for a six-foot, and the
second rather high for an eight-foot sweep. Since some
portion of the force employed is always lost through
friction, the fewer wheels to secure the required speed
and direction, the better. Hard- wood boxes are cheaper
and are more easily adjusted than those made of metal,
and, if they are kept properly greased, last, perhaps,
quite as long.

An excellent portable-power can be made by taking a
bevel-gearing from an old discarded brick-machine, a
pair of spur-wheels from an ancient reaper, two or three
shafts and a band-wheel from other sources — all odds
and ends picked up cheaply here and there — arranging
them to suit the purpose, and fitting all but the band-

154 FARM APPLIANCES.

wheel and one shaft in a stout frame. The odd shaft
extends from the end of the frame some distance, and
carries the band-wheel at its further end, above which a
feed-cutter stands on a loft, and is run by a belt. From
a pulley on the same shaft, power is conveyed to a grind-
stone and corn-sheller, which require a much lower rate
of speed than the cutter. The crown wheel has fifty-
four cogs, its pinion, eighteen; the spur-wheel has sev-
enty-two cogs, its pinion, fifteen; the band-wheel is thir-
ty-six inches in diameter, and the pulleys on the cutting
box, six inches. The number of revolutions of the cut-
ter-shaft to one of the horse are, therefore, eighty-six and
two-fifths. A six-inch leather belt will seldom or never
slip; a four-inch belt is quite too light. Two horses, at-
tached to this power, cut cornstalks very rapidly. The
crown-wheel has a tendency to rise and allow the cogs
to slip. It must be kept down by friction wheels placed
above the rim, or by a collar on the axle, working against
the underside of the upper cross-piece, which, in turn,
must be kept in place by a bolt or rod at each end, run-
ning up through the bed-piece, and secured at the top
by means of a broad washer and stout nut.

CHAPTEE VIII.

PREPARING AND HANDLING FERTILIZERS.

HAULING BARNTARD MANURE.

When hauling manure it is usual to drop it in heaps,
and leave it to be spread by a man who follows soon after.
There are several methods of dumping the manure, but
the most satisfactory is to use a manure hook, as shown

PREPARING AH1) HANDLING FERTILIZERS. 155

in figure 18G. The bottom of the sled or wagon should
be formed of loose planks, each with its end shaved

Fig. 186. — A MANURE HOOK.

down to form handles. The side and end pieces of the
box, though closely fitting, are not fastened together, so
that they can be removed one at a time. One side or an
end board is first taken out, and with a manure hook a
sufficient amount of the load removed for the first heap.
The manner of unloading the manure from the box

187. — A MANURE WAGON BOX.

above described, is shown in figure 187. The other side
and ends are afterwards taken off, and finally the bottom

156 FARM APPLIANCES.

pieces are raised and the sled or wagon is soon emptied.
In dropping the heaps, they should be left, as nearly as
may be, in straight rows, and of a size and distance apart
determined by the amount of manure to be spread. If
they are placed regularly one rod from another each way,
and eight heaps are made from a load, there will be
twenty loads per acre. In spreading such heaps the
manure is thrown eight feet each way, and the whole
ground is covered. It is important that the spreading
be done in a careful and thorough manner, each portion
of the surface getting its proper share of the manure. It
is important also that all lumps be broken up.

IMPLEMENT FOR FINING MANURE.

It is often desirable to have fine manure for use in
hills and drills ; and it is also at times necessary, when
artificial fertilizers are lumpy, to pulverize them for use.
A tool for this purpose is shown in figure 188. This is

Fig. 188. — IMPLEMENTS FOB FINING MANURE.

especially useful in preparing the mixture of poultry
manure and plaster. The implement is made of a piece
of three-inch hard-wood plank, twelve inches wide,
sawed and cut across into notches, and surrounded on
three sides as shown, with a strip of sheet iron, or broad
hoop-iron band. It is rubbed back and forth over the
manure on a floor, and can be used as a shovel, by rais-
ing the handle, for turning over and mixing the mass.

PREPARING AXD HANDLING FERTILIZERS. 157

MUCK AND PEAT.

Fresh muck contains valuable plant-food, but usually
in an unavailable form. There are many instances where
muck, applied to land, has proved positively injurious.
Muck needs to be exposed to the action of the frost, rain
and sun, or, as it is termed, " weathered," for a season,
before it is fit to be used as a fertilizer. Even after it
has thus been subjected to the elements, it is usually
best to employ the finely divided muck as an absorbent
of liquid manure in the stable or shed, or even the barn-
yard. In this way the food elements are brought into a
better state for the plants to feed upon. If the
''weathered" muck and manure can be composted to-
gether for a time, a still more valuable fertilizer is ob-
tained.

When one has peat or muck in any form upon his
farm, it should, of course, be dug when the water is low
in the swamps, and the task of getting out muck may

Fig. 189. — A BOAT FOB GETTING OUT MUCK.

aid essentially the work of reclaiming the swamps. Thus
the main ditch may be dug the width of a cart track.
By making a narrow preliminary ditch to carry off the
water and dry the ground, a horse and cart may be
brought into the ditch and the muck carted directly off
to dry ground, where it can dry, and perhaps be exposed
to a winter's freezing and thawing, before using in the

158 PAKM APPLIANCES.

compost heaps or barn-yard. In all such ditching we
must begin at the lowest end of the ditch, so that there
shall always be a free outlet for the water. A boat, to
be used in removing muck from the bed through a water
channel to a hill-side, is shown in figure 189. It is of
pine boards, nailed firmly to side planks, braced by a cross
plank at the middle. If made nine feet long, four feet
wide, and sixteen inches deep, it will float a ton of muck.
A runner is placed under each side, so that the boat can
be drawn upon the land. A hook or eye should be
placed on each side, and others at one end, by which the
boat may be drawn. While floating, the boat is moved
by handspikes. The place where the muck is heaped to
dry, should be as near as possible to the bed from which
it is dug.

The muck may be very peaty, or the material really
may be peat — that is, consisting almost entirely of vege-
table matter and ash — whereas much, as the word is ap-
plied in the United States, is used to mean such as
would be of little or no value as fuel, from the amount
of soil or sand or calcareous matter in it ; but it is useful
as manure. The peaty mucks are greatly benefited by
being treated with lime — in fact it is only by acting upon
them with lime or ashes that they can be made rapidly
fit for composts or for application to the land. The old
rule to slake stone-lime with strong brine, adding only
brine enough to dry-slake the lime, is a very good one.
Such lime may be depended upon for the best results
when composted with muck.

HOW TO BUKlSr LIME.

The application of lime improves the mechanical tex-
ture of heavy soils, and this will frequently compensate
for its use, if the lime can be obtained cheaply. In many

PREPARING AND HANDLING FERTILIZERS. 150

localities, the farmer can burn the lime he needs, and
thus obtain it at a much less cost than the market price.
It is not necessary to build a kiln of masonry. The
cheapest kiln is made by digging an excavation in a
bank, as shown in figure 190. If much lime is to be
burned, it will pay to line this excavation with brick, and
place an iron grating across near the bottom, beneath
which the fire is made. Whether the kiln is so made, or
constructed only in a temporary manner, it must be
banked up in front with earth, after the limestone is
placed in it. Where the iron grating is used, it should

Fig. 190.— A LIME KILN.

project out in front as far as the bank of earth will per-
mit, while under it is used a sheet iron door, to close the
furnace and regulate the draft. A platform is built just
above the projection of the grating, to support the earth
banked against the rock. The top of the heap is covered
with earth, leaving a hole in the center for a chimney.
When the kiln is only temporary, an arch of large rocks
takes the place of the iron grating, and the sides of the
kiln are lined, as the rocks are laid in, with large stones
instead of brick. It will take four or five days, with a
good fire, to burn the kiln sufficiently.
' Lime may also be burned by piling the stones in a

160 FARM APPLIANCES.

conical heap above ground. Large stones are used to
make an arch under the heap, and the cavity below the
arch is filled with fuel. Immediately above the arch is
placed a layer of dry wood, then a layer of lime-stones, next
a layer of wood, and so on until the heap is completed.
The stones are laid rather loosely, and the entire heap is
covered with earth to the depth of ab least a foot, to re-
tain the heat, leaving an opening at the top for the es-
cape of smoke. It will pay to insert a short sheet-iron
chimney in this opening, to increase the draft, as a hot
fire is needed. The draft is regulated by opening or
closing the doorway under the arch. Do not disturb the
heap until it is perfectly cool, and if the lime is not to
be used at once, it should be protected from rain by a
roof, and from surface water by erecting a low bank
about it. Where limestone boulders can be gathered in
sufficient quantities, the cost of lime will be very little,
and even when the rock must be quarried, burning lime
will frequently yield handsome returns when the weather
does not admit of regular farm work.

VALUE OF GAS LIME.

Gas lime, as its name indicates, is a product of gas
works. Quick lime is spread in large boxes, called puri-
fiers ; the gas passes through these, and coming in con-
tact with the lime is deprived of its impurities, especially
the sulphur it contains. When the lime ceases to act, it
is thrown out and replaced by a fresh supply. Gas lime
smells strongly of sulphur, and contains the sulphides of
ammonia and of lime. These are fatal to plant life, and
before it can be used as a fertilizer, the lime must be ex-
posed to the air for some weeks. When unpleasant
odors are no longer perceptible, the gas lime may be used
in the same manner as ordinary lime. It still consists

PREPARING AND HANDLING FERTILIZERS. 161

largely of quick lime, and contains more or less sulphate
of lime (gypsum or plaster), formed by the conversion of
the dangerous sulphide into sulphate of lime. It may
be used after exposure to mix with muck, but cannot
safely be used in its fresh state. It is an easy matter to
expose it before adding it to the muck, and thus be on
the safe side.

BURNING CLAY AND SODS.

Burning clay for manurial purposes, is an old fashion,
which deserves renewed notice and practice. Along with
the clay or with ordinary soil or swamp muck, may be
mingled coarse sods, the scrapings of road-side ditches,

Fig. 191.— BURNING CLAT AND SODS.

the mossy surface and hard tussocks of swamp meadows,
rough " waste wood," coarse weeds, and other similar
matters which slowly decay, and are of no value until
they are decomposed. These combustible matters are
placed in small heaps over an old meadow, which needs
renewal, or any other piece of land. The rough waste
matters being gathered, placed, and covered with earth,
so that they will burn slowly, in the manner shown in
figure 191; care being taken to so arrange them, as to
distribute the heat all through the mass and the earth
with which it is covered. These heaps are fired and left
to burn slowly for several days, when the dust and ashes

162 FARM APPLIANCES.

are spread over the surface. The lime and potash thus
made available, both from the waste material and the
earth covering, furnish considerable fertilizing matter.

CONVERTING STRAW INTO MANURE.

In the "West the object is to feed one-third of the straw
stack, and convert the balance into manure as rapidly as
possible. The straw trampled under foot by the cattle
will not thoroughly rot within a year, if left to itself. To
rot and fine, it must be stirred about, and the swine can
be made to do this work. If the hogs are fed on the
straw twice a week, they will move the entire mass, unless
quite deep, rooting after stray grains. If their noses do
not get to the bottom of the heap, sharpen a heavy stake
and prod it through the straw ; then withdraw it and
drop shelled corn or oats into the hole. In this way a
hole can be made every few feet over the pile, and the
hogs will turn the manure thoroughly. A hog's snout is
a very cheap and effective manure hook. The hogs must
not be allowed to lie on the rotting straw, as this is al-
most sure to produce disease among them. They become
too warm, and then when they come into the open air
contract colds, catarrhal or pulmonary diseases. If the
hogs are used as above recommended, straw can be con-
verted into well rotted and fined manure within six
months ; and if the straw stack is put on level ground,
not much will be lost during this rapid conversion.
"When from twelve to eighteen months are required for
the rotting of the manure — and this time will be required
when deep masses are not disturbed — and the straw is on
a side hill, not a little of the value of the manure is lost
bv being washed down hill.

PREPARING AND HANDLING FERTILIZERS. 163

MANURE FROM MARL AND SHELLS.

Marl is quite abundant in some localities, and in others
oyster shells can be had for the hauling. These may be
profitably burned into lime for use as a fertilizer. In re-
gard to this use of lime, it should be remembered that the

Fig. 192. — PIT FOR BURNING MARL.

larger part of the ash of agricultural plants consists of
lime, and that it is thus an indispensable plant food. It
is rarely used without benefit, but is most useful when
applied in a caustic state, or when it is freshly burned.
Enquiries are often made about burning marl and shells.
An easy way of doing this is in piles, commonly called
"pits," made as shown in figure 192. A level spot is
chosen, and a quantity of small wood is spread over it,
either in a square, or better, in a circle. Two or three
double rows of stones, covered with other flat stones, are
laid as at a, a, to form flues. A layer of shells or marl
is thrown upon the fuel, and other alternate layers are
added, until a conical heap is made. Chimneys of small
wood or chips are made over the flues as the heap is
built, and carried to the top.

MAKING FERTILIZER FROM BONES.

It is well enough known that bone, when ground fine,
makes one of the best and cheapest manures, especially
on lands long in use. The needs of farmers with abund-
ant capital are well enough met in the commercial fertil-

164 FARM APPLIANCES.

izers. With the Experiment Stations to analyze the
samples, there is not much danger of adulteration. The
high price of this comminuted bone, two cents a pound
and upward, deters many farmers from using it on a
large scale, even where there is no doubt that the invest-
ment would pay. In a limited way, the small farmer
has the means within his reach, of reducing several bar- .*
rels of bones to a fine powder every year. A solution of
potash will reduce bone to a fine condition, and make it
available for plant food. Most farmers still use wood
for fuel, and the ashes from the fifteen or twenty cords
used in a year, if saved, would reduce all the bones ordi-
narily within reach of the farmer. The old-fashioned
leach that used to stand at almost every farmer's back-
door for soap-making, was a good contrivance for reducing
the bones. But any tight, strong cask or box, will an-
swer quite as well for this purpose. Water poured upon
the ashes makes a lye, or solution of potash, strong
enough to decompose the bones. The casks should stand
under cover, so that the quantity of water applied to the
bone and ashes will be under control. The time it will
take to reduce the bone to a powder, will depend upon
the amount of potash in the ashes, and attention be-
stowed upon the process. It is essential that the ashes .
and bone should be closely packed in the mass, and that *
they be kept in a moist state, adding water as it evapo-
rates from the surface. The finer the bone before it is
packed in the ashes, the sooner will it be reduced. The
process can be hastened by putting into the mass a few
pounds of common potash. But this is only necessary to
save time. Ashes from hickory or any other hard wood
contain sufficient potash to decompose the bone. When
the mass is soft enough to break down with a spade or
shovel, it can be mixed with land plaster, dried peat, or
loam, to make it convenient for handling. It is a con-
centrated fertilizer, to be used with discretion in the hill,

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN- AND ORCHARD. 165

or applied as a top dressing to growing crops in the gar-
den or field. We are quite sure that any one who uses
this preparation of bone and wood ashes, and sees the vig-
orous push it gives to garden and other crops, will be
likely to continue it. But many farmers near seaports
and railroad stations, use coal mainly for fuel, and will
have to resort to a hand or horse-mill to use up the waste
bones. Small mills are extensively used by poultry-men,
for crushing oyster shells as well as bone, and the ma-
chine can be adjusted to break the bone coarsely for hen
feed. The oil and gelatine of the bones have an alimen-
tary value, and, turned into eggs, pay much better than
when used as a fertilizer for the soil.

CHAPTER IX.
APPLIANCES FOR THE GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

PAPER PLANT PROTECTOR.

The most effectual means for protecting young melon
and cucumber plants against some of their injurious

Fig. 193. — PATTEBN FOE PLANT PROTECTOR.

enemies, is to inclose the young vines in bottomless boxes
of some kind. Various more or less expensive and elabor-
ate forms have been invented and are offered for sale.
The principal objection to most of these is their cost.

166 FARM APPLIANCES.

Figures 193 and 194 represent a device which is free from
this objection. It consists simply of a piece of card-board

Fig. 194. — PLANT PROTECTOR.

or stiff paper of any kind, as seen in figure 193. When
the ends are brought together, and the slits, indicated
in the engraving, made to interlock, a cone, as seen in
figure 194, is produced which, when put around a plant,
furnishes as complete a protector against insects as the
most expensive device.

MUSLIN-COVERED PLANT SCREEN.

To make the device, figure 195, take four strips,
one-half inch thick and one inch wide, and twelve

Fig. 195. — PLANT PROTECTOR.

inches long ; bore a hole in one end of these, through
which pass a wire, the ends of which are twisted

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

167

together, but not so tightly as to prevent the op-
posite ends of the pieces from being spread apart from
eight inches to a foot, making a tent-shaped frame.
Cheap muslin is tacked on the frame, spreading the pieces
before doing so. The muslin should be brought down to
within about two inches of the ends of the sticks, so as
to allow them to be run into the ground that distance,
when in use. When not in use, the protectors can be
closed up and take but little room, and if properly cared
for, they will last several seasons.

PROTECTED PLANT LABEL.

Various devices to prevent the washing off of the names
written on plant labels have been invented from time to

FfWh

€1

Fi£. 196. — IMPROVED PLANT LABEL.

time. A novel one is shown in figure 196. It con-
sists in fastening, with a small screw, a short piece of
label over the name, as seen at M; a cross-section of the

168 FARM APPLIANCES.

label is shown at N, and at P the cover is partly raised. This
arrangement may be applied to any size of labels. The
great difficulty with wooden labels is not that the name
becomes obliterated, but that the portion in the ground
decays. This may be avoided by using Locust, which is
expensive.

POLES FOR BEANS AND OTHER CLIMBERS.

"White birches and alders, so commonly used for bean
poles, are about the poorest, for they last only one season
at the best, and sometimes break off at the surface of the
ground and let down the beautiful pyramid of green be-
fore the pods are ripe. White Cedar from the swamps is
durable, and the rough bark enables the vines to climb
without any help from strings, but these are not al-
ways accessible. Eed Cedar is much more widely distri-
buted, and on the whole makes the best bean pole. The
wood is as durable as the White Cedar, and young trees,
from which poles are made, grow quite stout at the ground,
and, if well set, will resist very strong winds. A set of
these poles will last for a generation. For bean poles, all
the side branches are trimmed off, but for a support for
ornamental climbers, these may be left on. A Cedar,
six or eight feet high, with the branches gradually short-
ened from below upwards, makes an excellent support
for ornamental vines. One of these, covered with a
clematis, or other showy climber, makes a pyramid of
great beauty. It is well to prepare a supply of poles for
beans and other plants before the work is pressing.

POTTING STRAWBERRY PLANTS.

Figure 197 shows a simple method of turning old tin
cans into contrivances for potting strawberries. Unsolder

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

1G9

the cans, and cut into pieces of about three by seven
inches. Turn back one quarter of an inch of each end,
so that when the strips are bent around,
they will clasp together, as shown in the
engraving. In potting, the contrivance
is placed on the bed near the runner, and
pressed into the ground with the sole of
the foot. The sharp edges allow it to
push through the soil easily. A runner
is placed in the center of the cylinder,
and held by a stick or stone, which also serves to mark
the place. When the plants are well rooted, the tin pots
are taken up, unclasped, and the ball of earth placed in
the new bed provided for it.

Fig. 197.

PLANT POTTER.

STAND FOR BERRY BASKETS.

During the berry picking season much time is lost in
the field,° through the lack of a suitable box or stand for

Fig. 198.— BEKBT PICKING STAND.

transferring the filled baskets to the packing house.
Figure 198 illustrates a very convenient and simple stand
for this purpose. It may be made to contain either nine,
twelve, sixteen, or twenty baskets, as may be desired.
The handle is made of a barrel hoop nailed firmly to the

170 FARM APPLIANCES.

sides. Suitable legs are attached to the stand to raise it
from the ground.

TUBE FOR WATERING PLANTS.

Figure 199 shows an implement for watering garden
plants. It is a tin tube, one-half inch in diameter, eight
inches long, perforated near the bottom, and
with a conical end. The upper end, b, is in
the form of a funnel. In using this device,
insert the conical end of the tube in the ground
as near the plant as convenient, without dis-
turbing the roots, and turn the water into
the funnel. The water will pass out into the
soil through the perforations at the bottom.
The soil is not baked on the surface when
watered in this manner, and the operation is
Fig. 199. very quickly done. Any local tinsmith can
make the tube at a slight expense. A small
flower pot is sometimes sunk in the soil near the plant, and
the water, when poured into it, will gradually soak away.

MOVABLE TRELLIS FOR GRAPES.

A grape trellis, possessing several good points, is shown
in figure 200. The wooden posts, which need not be
fastened together, are of 3 by 4 stuff. If leant against
each other, their own weight and that of the vines will
hold them in place. They are joined by smooth galvan-
ized fencing wire. The posts must be braced inside, as
seen in the illustration. If it is desired to lay down the
vines in the fall, the staples can be drawn and the wires
pulled out, greatly simplifying the work. The trellis
being double, a row of vines may be planted on each side.
Another point in its favor is that it allows the picker to

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

171

get at the bunches on the under sides of the vines easily
and without disturbing the vines. The trellis is as cheap
as any, is strong and durable, and does not require the

Fig. 200.— MOVABLE GRAPE TRELLIS.

digging of holes, while it may be taken out of the way
when the vines are laid down, and stored under shelter in
a small space until needed again.

TOOL FOR CUTTING EDGINGS.

No grass-plot, walk, or flower-bed, set in
turf, is complete, unless its edges are kept
neatly trimmed. The work may be done
with a sharpened spade, but it is better to
use a regular edging-tool. An old hoe can
be taken to the blacksmith, who will
straighten out the shank, and round off
the corners of the blade with a file, and
the tool is an excellent sod-trimmer, and
very light to handle. For cutting sods,
this makes much easier work than the
spade, though that is needed for lifting
the turf when cut. Using a board as a guide, the cut-
ting will be rapidly done.

Fig. 201.

172 FARM APPLIANCES.

SUBSTITUTE FOR PEA BRUSH.

The best substitute for pea brush is a trellis of galvan-
ized iron wire. The peas are sown in double rows, six
inches apart. A post, six inches in diameter, is set firmly
at each end of the row ; it may be round, set three feet
in the ground, and of a hight suited to the variety of pea.
As soon as the vines are large enough, the wire is made
fast to the post, about six inches from the ground, carried
to and passed around the post at the other end, and back
to the starting point. Here it is made fast; it may be cut
off, bat still better, two or three turns are taken around
the post and another double wire stretched about eight
inches above the first, and so on until as many wires as
needed are put in place. No. 18 wire, which measures
150 feet to the pound, is suitable. If over 200 feet long,
a similar post should be set mid-way of the row. Stakes
(plasterers' laths will answer) are set every ten or fifteen
feet along the row, to keep the wires from sagging.
These have notches cut in them, in which the wires rest ;
or the wires may be attached to them by means of staples
or cord. When no longer needed, the wire is wound up
on a reel, and, with the posts, stored away for another
year. Pea-growers for market allow the vines to lie upon
the ground, and claim that the crop is not enough larger
when brushed, to pay the cost of cutting and placing the
sticks. In the garden, neatness, and especially the
greater ease of picking, make it necessary to use brush,
or a substitute. The chief precaution to be observed is,
to have the wires of this trellis so near together that the
vines can reach them as soon as a support is needed.

TRELLIS FOR TOMATOES.

A tomato trellis, which never fails to give satisfaction,
is shown in figures 202 and 203. The standards or legs

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

173

are made of one by one and a half inch stuff, three feet
long, and tapering slightly toward the top. The slats
are selected lath. Figure 202 is an end view of the trellis
in position ; figure 203 shows the trellis folded. Wires

Fig. 202.— END VIEW OF TRELLIS.

extend across the top of the trellis, and when in position,
they loop over the ends of the stands, and hold it at the
proper width. The standards are fastened together where
they cross with one-quarter inch bolts, two inches long.
Two lengths of the trellis are sufficient for three tomato
plants. It may be placed in position when the plants
have attained a hight of six or eight inches. At the end

_J1

Fig. 203. — THE TRELLIS FOLDED.

of each season, after the crop is gathered, the trellises are
taken up, given a coat of paint or crude petroleum, folded
and packed away in a dry place. This form of trellis has
the advantages of strength, lightness and portability.

174 FARM APPLIANCES.

TOOLS FOR KILLING WEEDS.

Weeds are easily killed when they are first seen, and
more easily still, before they are seen at all. A heavy
rake is better than a hoe for this work, and will do more
in ten minutes, than can be done with a hoe in an hour.
An implement made as in figure 204, will do this work of

Fig. 204.— RAKE FOB WEEDING.

weeding in an excellent manner. This is made of a
heavy rake head, with a handle attached as shown, and
furnished with a number of teeth placed about an inch
apart. The teeth may be made of forty-penny nails, or
one-quarter inch round iron, the weight of which will
bury them in the soil without any effort. It is much
more easy to work with this implement, than with a
lighter rake. The beds may be cleaned close to the
plants, and it should be used as soon as the weeds begin
to appear.

For killing perennial weeds, a spud is a convenient im-
plement with which to cut off the roots below the surface.

Fig. 205. — SPUD FOE KILLING WEEDS.

A good spud may be made from a carpenter's chisel of
large size. This should be attached to a handle sufficiently
long to allow it to be used without stooping. By thrust-
ing this diagonally against the root, that may be cut off
as far below the surface as desired. Some weeds, how-

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN" AND ORCHARD. 175

ever, such as dandelion, plantain, etc., are not killed by
merely cutting them, but need the application of some
destructive liquid to make complete work. In England,
oil of vitroil (sulphuric acid) is used for this purpose, but
that is dangerous to handle, and must be kept in glass.
Strong brine or coal-oil is sometimes applied to the roots
to destroy them. We give an illustration of a vessel for
the application of liquids, which is attached to the spud,
and allows the cutting and killing to be done at one
operation. Figure 205 shows the spud, a, with its attach-
ment, a tin vessel with a tapering nozzle and holding
about a quart, at b. At c, is a valve, which covers a
small air-hole, against which it is pressed by a spring,
and which may be raised by the cord, e. After cutting
the root, a pull of the cord will raise the valve, allow air
to enter the vessel, and a small quantity of the liquid will
pass out and come in contact with the root.

VARIOUS FRUIT PICKERS.

A good picker is shown in figures 206, 207 and 208.
Figure 206 is the picker. The pieces, a and b, are iron,
shaped as seen in the cut. They work on a rivet, and
are fastened securely to the end of the pole. Holes are
punched through a and b, and stiff wires inserted, form-
ing a cage for the fruit. The toothed end of piece
b is sharp, and slides over the end of «, which may be
sharp or not. A small hole is bored through the pole,
and a notch cut in the front edge for a small pulley, d.
A strong cord is attached to the lower end of b, and passes
through the hole over the pulley, and down the pole
through screw-eyes placed a short distance apart. Figure
207 is a section of the lower end of the pole. Eighteen
inches from the end, the pole is squared for about fifteen
inches. Over this squared portion is fitted a sliding-box

176

FARM APPLIANCES.

handle. A thumb-stop is fastened to the upper end, &s
shown in figure 208. The thumb end is held up by a
small spring, which presses the upper end into notches in an
iron rachet-bar fitted into the pole. A screw-eye is inserted
in the upper end, and a cord attached. The pole may be
of any desired length.
To pick apples, grasp the pole at the lower end with

i !

'C^ ■

Fig. 206.

Fig. 207. Fig. 208.

one hand, and by the sliding-box handle with the other.
Press the thumb-piece and slide it up, and the weight of
piece b opens the jaws of the picker. When the apple is
in the cage, draw the slides down until the points of the
picker meet on the apple stem. The thumb-stop will
hold it secure. Turn the pole slowly without pulling,
pushing, or shaking the limb, and the apple will come off

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

177

easily. The cage of the picker should be large enough to
contain the largest apple, and enough wires may be
attached to hold the smallest. The jaws should not be
oyer one-eighth -of an inch thick, flattened on the inside,
to prevent bruising the ripe fruit. They maybe wrapped
with cloth, if thought necessary.
A cheap and simple picker may be made by bending a

Fig. 209.

Fig. 210.

Fig. 211.

stiff wire into the form of a circle six inches in diameter,
with one side of the circle prolonged three inches into a
V-shaped projection. Upon this wire sew a cloth bag a
foot or so deep, and fasten it on to a pole by the end
opposite the V-shaped extremity. This V-shaped projec-
tion will serve as a corner, in which to catch the apple
and pull it off, allowing it to fall into the bag. An excel-

178 FAKM APPLIANCES.

lent picker, as shown in figure 210, can be made from
stiff wire by a tinner. The span across the top should
be about six inches, and the depth from eight to ten
inches. The wires should not be more than a half-inch
apart at their tips. The wires being more or less flexible,
the apple is apt to draw through them, if they are not
close together. Care should also be taken to have the im-
plement made as light as possible. A bungling mechanic
will probably use too much solder. Another good picker
is pictured in figure 209. It is light, durable and pleasant
to handle. When, however, an apple, being very short
stemmed, lies close to a limb, it is much more easily
removed by the former device than by this. A simple,
flattened hook, with a thin, almost cutting edge, secured
on the end of a pole, figure 211, is often handy for pulling
off stray apples. This is the best implement for thinning
apples.

FRUIT LADDERS.

The construction is easily understood from tne engrav-
ing. The method of using deep fruit baskets with a hook
attached is also shown in figure 112. The use of a com-
mon grain bag as a receptacle for picking fruit has some
important advantages. One side of the mouth of the bag is
tied to the corresponding corner at the bottom, first put-
ting an apple in the corner to hold the string from slip-
ping off. The bag is then hung over the shoulder with
the mouth in front. The picker has both hands free and
can empty the bag by lowering it into the barrel, without
bruising the fruit.

Another form is shown in figure 213. To make it,
select a chestnut pole, eighteen feet long, or of the desired
length. At about four feet from the top, or smaller end
of the pole, nail on a band of hoop iron, to prevent split-

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN" AND ORCHA.RD.

179

ting, and rip up the pole in the center as far as the band.
The halves of the pole are spread apart three and a half
feet at the base, and secured. The places for the rungs
are then laid out, and the holes bored ; those for the
lower rungs should be one and three-eighths inch, the
upper one inch ; drive them in place and wedge fast.

Fig. 212.— A HANDY FRUIT LADDER. Fig. 213.— FRUIT LADDER.

The distance between the rungs is usually a foot ; when
farther apart, they are fatiguing in use. A ladder of this
kind, on account of its small width above, is easily thrust
in among the branches, without breaking them, and is
more convenient to use on large trees, than those of the

ordinary shape.

180 FARM APPLIANCES.

JAPANESE PRUNING SAW.

The Japanese use a pull saw instead of a push saw.
One of these is quite handy, especially for pruning. The
teeth are like those of a rip saw, reversed, and cut when
the saw is pulled towards one. One of these saws, made

L^2^i*^<*^^^6i**rf^*i*<*<<*t/»*«-^

Fig. 214. — pbuxcs-g satv.

as shown in figure 214, and fixed to a pole of convenient
size, will be found very useful in cutting branches of tall
trees, as in pulling there is no tendency to bend the saw
or the pole.

RABBITS AND MICE IN THE ORCHARD.

Not the least of the enemies of young orchard trees is
the rabbit. He will not injure the trees in summer,
when he has an abundance of succulent food ; but in
winter the tender bark is to him a dainty that he will
partake of, if it is not made distasteful to him, or he is not
kept away. Making the snow into a solid mound about
the tree will keep away mice, but not rabbits, though it
is often said it would. The rabbits will get on the mound
and nibble away. Besides, we don't have snow half the
time during the winter. The best way is to make the
bark distasteful to the rabbit. He likes neither blood,
nor grease, nor the odor of flesh. When you butcher,
take the waste parts of the animals, and with these parts
rub the trunks as far up as the rabbits can reach. The
rabbits never nibble a tree so treated, while the grease or
blood remains.

H the rabbits "bark" a tree, the first thing to be done
is to examine the extent of the injury. Frequently it is

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

181

not so bad as it looks, and the inner bark is not entirely
removed. If this covers even a fourth 'of the wounded,
portion, and connects the bark above the wound with that
below it, the chances are that the wound will heal, if dry-
ing can be prevented. The ordinary grafting wax, applied
on old, worn cotton cloth, or on paper, as used in graft-
ing, should be applied over the injured portion. This,
'especially on quite small trees, will prevent all evaporation.
Another application is the old grafting clay, made by

Fig. 215. — MANNER OF INSERTING THE CIONS.

thoroughly mixing and beating together stiff clay with
half as much cow manure. Apply this over the wound
quite thickly, and fasten it in place by wrapping with an
old cloth and tying with strings. If the inner bark is
completely gone, nothing remains but to bridge over the
wound with cions, and thus restore the communication be-
tween the roots and top. The cions may be taken from the
same tree, if they can be spared, or those from another of
the same kind will answer as well. The methods of cut-

1S2 FARM APPLIANCES.

ting the cions and inserting them are so plainly shown in
figure 215 that description is unnecessary. A small chisel
may be used to aid in setting the cions. This method of
cutting the ends is better than making the slope on the
opposite side. If the wound is low enough, it may be
covered with a mound of earth ; if not, employ one of
the methods suggested above.

IMPLEMENTS USED IX CRANBERRY CULTURE.

A turfing axe, shown figure 216, consists of a thin
steel blade, hatchet-faced, and about six inches square.

Fig. 216. — TURFING AXE.

This blade is made fast to a stout hickory handle, some
two feet and a half long, in the same manner as a common
wood axe. In expert hands, this axe does wonderful

Fig. 217. — HAULING RAKE.

execution upon the tough, interlacing roots, with which
the surface of the bog is filled.

A hoe, shaped like a grubbing hoe, is the implement
used for grading. Every farmer knows what that is ;
but the grading hoe, figure 218, should be made of the

APPLIANCES FOR GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 183

best steel, and ground to an edge like an axe — the object
being to cut all the fine roots to pieces, and get out such

Fig. 218. — GRADING HOE.

of them as escaped when the trees, stumps, shoots, and
larger wood were removed.

Fig. 219.— SPREADER.

The sand is spread by means of a " Spreader,"
figure 219, made of a piece of one-inch white oak board,

Fig. 220.— MARKER.

about fifteen inches long by three inches wide, and fas-
tened to a handle.

184 FARM APPLIANCE?.

A "Marker/' shown in figure 220, is made of a piece
of two by four inch joist, about nine feet long, having
teeth eighteen inches apart, and a handle the length of a
rake-handle. The teeth are eight inches long, made of
white oak, driven through holes bored in the joist for the
purpose. The implement is made similar to a common
rake with teeth far apart, and the whole made stronger
to stand harder usage, by having stays running from the
handle to the head, which holds the teeth.

CHAPTEE X

APPLIANCES FOR SLAUGHTERING HOGS AND CURING
THE MEAT.

STICKING HOGS.

The usual method of killing hogs on the farm is to
thrust a sticking knife into the throat, severing the large
veins. It recpiires experience, nerve, and skill to do this
properly. The hog should be thrown on its back, and
held there by an assistant, while the operator gives the
fatal thrust. "With a keen double-edged knife in his
right hand, he feels with his left for the proper place to
insert the knife. Having found it, he sticks in the knife,
aiming directly toward the base of the tail. If properly
done, the large veins are severed, and the hog soon bleeds
to death. If the knife veers to either side, a gash is
made in one shoulder, the death is slow and painful, and
the blood settles in the flesh.

A BETTER WAT.

With a view to avoiding all mishaps, saving pain, and
leaving the operator free to sever the veins without em-
barrassment from the squealing and struggling victim, the

SLAUGHTERING HOGS AND CURING MEAT.

185

design called "The Stunner," figure 221 has been in-
vented. It fits over the head of the intended victim, as
seen in figures 222 and 223, and a sharp blow on the
plate over the forehead drives the pin into the brain,

Pig. 221.

THE STUNNER.

Fig. 222. Fig. 223.

THE STUNNER ADJUSTED.

causing insensibility instantly, and death will not be
long delayed. The use of such a mask is made compul-
sory in many countries of Europe. Such a contrivance
is not only convenient, but humane, and appeals to the
better nature of every man who is under the necessity of
killing a dumb beast. As soon as the animal is struck,
the throat is cut to insure free bleeding.

HEATIXG THE WATER FOR SCALDING.

For heating scalding water and rendering lard, when
one has not kettles or cauldrons ready to set in brick or
stone, a simple method is to put down two forked stakes
firmly, as shown in figure 224, lay in them a pole to sup-
port the kettles, and build a wood fire around them on
the ground. A more elaborate arrangement is shown
in figure 225, which serves not only to heat the water,
but as a scalding tub as well. It is made of two-inch

186

FARM APPLIANCES.

pine boards, six feet long, and two feet wide, rounded at
the ends. A heavy plate of sheet iron is nailed with rod
nails on the bottom and ends. Let the iron project

Fig. 224. — HEATING THE WATER.

about one inch on each side. The ends, being rounded,
will prevent the fire from burning the wood-work. They
also make it handier for dipping sheep, scalding hogs, or

Fig. 225.— HEATING AND SCALDING VAT.

for taking out the boiled food. The box is set on two
walls eighteen inches high, and the hind end of the
brick-work is built into a short chimney.

SCALDING TUBS AND VATS.

Various devices are employed for scalding hogs, with-
out lifting them by main force. For heavy hogs one

SLAUGHTEKttfG HOGS AND GUHING MEAT. 18?

may use three strong poles, fastened at the top with a
log chain, which supports a simple tackle, figure 226. A
very good arrangement is shown in figure 227. A sled is
made firm with driven stakes, and covered with planks
or boards. At the rear end the scalding cask is set in
the ground, its upper edge on a level with the platform,
and inclined as much as it can be and hold sufficient
water. A large, long hog is scalded one end at a time.
The more the cask is inclined, the easier will be the lifting.

Fig. 226.— TACKLE FOR HEAVY HOGS.

A modification of the above device is shown in figure
228. A lever is rigged like a well sweep, using a crotched
stick for the post, and a strong pole for the sweep, a
white oak stick — such as every farmer who can do so,
should have laid up to season. The iron rod on which
the sweep moves must be strong and stiff. A trace chain
is attached to the upper end, and if the end of the chain

188

FARM APPLIANCES.

has a ring instead of a hook, it will be quite convenient.
In use, a table is improvised, unless a strong one for the
purpose is at hand, and this is set near the barrel. A
noose is made with the chain about the leg of the pig,

Fig. 227.— SCALDING CASK ON A SLED.

and he is soused in, going entirely under water, lifted
out when the bristles start easily, and laid upon the table,
while another is made ready.

Figure 229 shows a more permanent arrangement. It
is a trough of plank, with a sheet iron bottom, which can
be set over a temporary fire-place made in the ground.

Fig. 22S.— SCALDING PIGS IN A HOGSHEAD.

The vat may be six feet long, three feet wide, and two
and one-half feet deep, so as to be large enough for a
good-sized hog. Three ropes are fastened on one side, for
the purpose of rolling the hog over into the vat, and

SLAUGHTERING HOGS AND CURING MEAT. 189

rolling it out on the other side when it is scalded. A
number of slanting cross-pieces are fitted in, crossing
each other, so as to form a hollow bed in which the car-
cass lies, with the ropes under it, by which it can be

Fig. 229. — SCALDING VAT.

moved and drawn out. These cross-pieces protect the
sheet-iron bottom, and keep the carcass from resting
upon it. A large, narrow fire-place is built up in the
ground, with stoned sides, and the trough is set over it.
A stove-pipe is fitted atone end, and room is made at the
front by which wood may be supplied to the fire, to heat
the water. A sloping table is fitted at one side for the
purpose of rolling up the carcass, when too large to han-
dle otherwise, by means of the rope previously mentioned.
On the other side is a frame made of hollowed boards set
on edge, upon which the hog is scraped and cleaned.
The right temperature for scalding a hog is one hundred
and eighty degrees; and with a thermometer there need
be no fear of overscalding, or a failure from the lack of

Fig. 230. — A GASTBKEL.

sufficient heat ; while the water can be kept at the right
temperature by regulating the fuel under the vat. If a
spot of hair is obstinate, cover it with some of the removed
hair, and dip on hot water. Always pull out hair and

190 FABM APPLIANCES.

bristles, shaving any off leaves unpleasant stubs in the
skin.

Gambrels should be provided of different lengths, if
the hogs vary much in size, like figure 230, or in other
convenient shapes. These should be of hickory or other
tough wood, for safety, and. to be so small as to require
little gashing of the legs to receive them.

HANGING AND CLEANING THE HOGS.

Figure 231 shows a very cheap and convenient device
for hanging either hogs or beeves. The device is in shape
much like an old fashioned "saw-buck," with the lower
rounds between the legs omitted. The legs, of which

Fig. 231. — RAISING A SLAUGHTERED ANIMAL.

there are two pairs, should be about ten feet long, and
set bracing, in the manner shown in the engraving. The
two pairs of legs are held together by an inch iron rod,
five or six feet in length, provided with threads at both

SLAUGHTERING HOGS AND CURING MEAT. 191

ends. The whole is made secure by means of two pairs
of nuts, which fasten the legs to the connecting iron rod.
A straight and smooth wooden roller rests in the forks
made by the crossing of the legs, and one end projects
about sixteen inches. In this two auger holes are bored,
in which levers may be inserted for turning the roller.
The rope, by means of which the carcass is raised, passes
over the roller in such a way that in turning, by means
of the levers, the animal is raised free from the ground.
When sufficiently elevated, the roller is fastened by one
of the levers to the nearest leg.

Skill and practice are needed to take out the intestines
neatly, without cutting or breaking them and soiling the
flesh. Bun the knife lightly down, marking the belly
straight, cut to the bone between the thighs, and in front
of the ribs and below, and split the rear bones with an
axe carefully, not to cut beyond them ; open the abdomen
by running the hand or two fingers behind the knife with
its edge turned outward. Little use of the knife is
required to loosen the entrails. The fingers, rightly used,
will do most of the severing. Small strong strings, cut
in proper lengths, should be always at hand to quickly
tie the severed ends of any small intestines cut or broken
by chance. An expert will catch the entire offal in a
large tin pan or wooden vessel, holding it between himself
and the hog. Unskilled operators, and those opening
very large hogs, need an assistant to hold this. The
entrails, and then the liver, heart, etc., being all removed,
thoroughly rinse out any blood or filth that may have
escaped inside. Spread the cut edges apart by inserting
a short stick between them, to admit free circulation of
cool air. When dripping is over, or the hanging posts
are wanted for other carcasses, remove the dressed ones,
and hang them in a cool cellar or other safe place, until
the whole flesh is thoroughly cooled through. Eemoving
the lard from the long intestines requires expertness that

192 FARM APPLIANCES.

can only be learned by practice. The fingers do most of
this cleaner, safer and better than a knife. A light feed
the night before killing leaves the intestines less distended
and less likely to be broken.

packing PORK.

Pack closely in the barrel, first rubbing salt well into
all exposed ends of bones, and sprinkle well between each
layer, using no brine until forty-eight hours after, and
then let the brine be strong enough to bear an egg. After
six weeks take out the hams and bacon and hang in the
smoke-house. When warm weather brings danger of
flies, smoke a week with hickory chips, avoiding heating
the air much. If one has a dark, close smoke-house, as
the writer has, the meat can hang in all the summer ;
otherwise pack in boxes, putting layers of sweet, dry hay
between. Long experience has convinced me that this
method of packing is preferable to packing in dry 6alt or
ashes. Much lard is injured or spoiled by overheating
and burning some portions ; the smallest quantity scorched
gives a bad flavor to the whole. A bucket of water in
the rendering kettle prevents this, if the fire is kept from
rising too high around the sides. The water is easily
separated at the bottom, if not slowly evaporated off dur-
ing the rendering. Cutting the leaf, etc., fine with a
sharp hatchet or cleaver, facilitates the free extraction of
the lard.

BOX FOR SALTIXG MEATS.

A trough made as shown at figure 232 is very handy
for salting meats, such as hams, bacon and beef, for
drying. It is made of any wood which will not flavor the
meat 5 ash, spruce or hemlock plank, one and a half inch

SLAUGHTEK1NG HOGS AND CUEING MEAT.

193

thick, being better than any others. A good size is four
feet long, by two and a half wide, and one and a half

Fig. 232. — CONVENIENT SALTING THOUGH.

deep. The joints should be made tight with white-lead
spread upon strips of cloth, and screws are vastly better
than nails to hold the trough together.

MAKING SAUSAGES.

The quality will depend largely upon the kind of meat or
meats used. Cutting fine is desirable, running twice or

Fig. 233.— A SAUSAGE FILLER.

of tener through the machine, unless it be a better one than
most of those in use. If skins are not used, the meat,

104 FARM APPLIANCES.

after being cut and seasoned, may be pressed into cakes
with the hands, the same as if wanted for frying, and
packed in earthen jars. For long keeping, into sum-
mer if desired, make into suitable cakes and fry,
pack in jars, and fill these with melted lard. The pieces
can be taken out at any time and simply warmed through ;
they will be as sweet and fresh as when first prepared.
Don't spoil sausage meat with spices or mint. Use salt
and pepper moderately, leaving every one to apply these
freely in eating, as individually desired. Figure 233
shows a simple bench and lever arrangement to be used
with the common sausage filler, which lightens the work
so much that even a small boy can use it with ease, and
any person can get up the whole apparatus at home
with little or no expense. An inch thick pine
board, a foot wide, and four and a quarter feet long, ia
fitted with four legs, two and a half feet long, notched
into its edges, with the feet spread outward to give firm-
ness. Two oak standards, eightean inches high, are set
thirty-four inches apart, with a slot down the middle of
each, for the admission of an oak lever eight feet long.
The left upright has three or four holes above each other
for the lever pin, as shown in the engraving. The tin
filler is set into the bench nearer the left upright, and
projects below for receiving the skins. Above the filler
is a follower fitting closely into it, and its top working
very loosely in the lever, to allow full play as it moves up
and down. The engraving shows the parts and mode of
working.

SMOKIXG THE MEAT.

The building shown iit figure 234 is seven feet in length,
six feet wide, and seven feet high from the ground floor
to the lower side of the plate. It should be boarded up
with matched stuff, or well battened. The frame is four by

SLAUGHTERING HOGS AND CURING MEAT. 195

four timber at the top and bottom, to which the boards are
nailed.

All smoke-houses should be fire-proof, but the expense
involved in the construction of a brick or stone building,
is more than many farmers and others care to incur.
A wooden building, containing a fire-proof bin, that will
not interfere with the use of the building for smoking meat,
will answer. Any wooden smoke-house may be easily

Fig. 234. — EJIPBOVED SMOKE HOUSE.

and cheaply transformed to contain a fire-proof receptacle
for ashes. In figure 234, is given a view of the interior
of the smoke-house, showing plainly the form and location
of the ash-bin. The bin is made from brick (long, nar-
row, flat stones will answer), and is built across one end
or side of the building. The bricks are laid length-
wise, and one deep. The bin should be nearly threo
feet in height, and occupy about half the floor space

196

FARM APPLIANCES.

of the building. For readily removing the ashes, coat
the bottom and sides of the bin with mortar. No wood
should be used. For smoking the meat, build the fire upon
the earth floor close to the brick wall, suspend by four
wires a piece of sheet-iron — a section of flattened stove-
pipe will answer — two feet square, eighteen inches above
the fire. The object of this is to spread the heat over a
greater surface, and not allow the blaze to flash up to the
meat. It also prevents the possibility of any pieces fall-
ing directly upon the fire. "When not in use, this iron screen

Fig. 235. — HANGING MEAT.

is unhooked from the poles above, and placed in one
corner. Figure 235 shows the method of hanging the
meat. As the meat must be carried from the cellar to the
smoke-house, the short sticks make a secure handle for
the purpose. The sticks rest upon cross-pieces, e, e,
placed upon the plate of the building. Some prefer to
use iron hooks, bent in the form of a large S, as shown
in the lower part of the engraving, while by driving
a spike or wooden pin in the edge or side of the scant-
ling, a good support is obtained, figure 236. "With a

SLAUGHTERING HOGS AND CURING MEAT. 197

little more expense, a convenient support is obtained, so
clearly shown in the upper part of the engraving, as to
need no further description. In hanging up heavy pieces
of meat, use strips of new or strong cloth, two inches in

Fig. 236.— MEAT SUPPORTS.

width. A miniature wooden chimney should be placed
at the top of the building, with an opening in the roof
for ventilation, when required. Smoke from cobs or
hickory wood imparts the best flavor to meat. The
smoke-house door should, for convenience, open outward.

CHEAP TEMPORARY SMOKE-HOUSE.

For those who have only the hams and other meats from
one or two hogs to smoke, a practicable smoke-house, like
that shown in figure 237, will serve the purpose. A large
barrel or good-sized cask should be used, with both heads
removed. A hole about a foot deep is dug to receive

198

FARM APPLIANCES.

it. and then a trench, of about the same depth and about
six or eight feet long, leading to the fire-place. Iu this
trench can be laid old stove pipe, and the ground filled in
around it. "What it is desired to have smoked is sus-

Fig. 237. — A BA.BBEL SMOKE HOUSE.

pended in the barrel and the lid put on, but putting
pieces under it, so there will be enough draught to draw
the smoke through. By having the fire some distance
from the meat, you get the desired amount of smoke, and
avoid having the meat heated.

, ■ — ^ 1888. Gt=±^
Alphabetical Catalogue

0. Judd Co.. David W. Judd, mi

& PUBLISHERS AND IMPORTERS OF sT^A \Vt)

All Works pertaining to Rural Life.

•751. Broa,a.-wa,y, IsTe-w "5Toxls.
All books sent post-paid on, receipt of price.

Agriculture, Horticulture, Etc.

FARM AMI U AI!I>E>.

Allen, R. L. and L. F. New American Farm Book % 2.50

American Farmer's Hand Book 2.50

Asparagus Culture. Flex.cioth 50

Bamford, C. E. Silk Culture. Paper 30

Barry, P. The Fruit Garden. New and Revised Edition 2.00

Bommer. Method of Making Manures 25

Brackett. Farm Talk. Paper 50c. Cloth 75

Brill. Farm-Gardening and Seed-Growing 1.00

Cauliflowers 20

Broom-Corn and Brooms — so

2 0. JUDD CO.'S ALPHABETICAL CATALOGUE.
Curtis on Wheat Culture. Paper 50

Emerson and Flint. Manual of Agriculture 1.50

Farm Appliances 1.00

Farm Conveniences 1.50

Farming for Boys 1,9

Farming for Profit 3.75

FitZ. Sweet Potato Culture. New and Enlarged Edition. Cloth .00

Flax Culture. Paper 30

French. Farm Drainage 1.50

Fuller, A. S. Practical Forestry 1.50

Propagation of Plants 1.50

Gregory. On Cabbages 30

On Carrots, Mangold Wurtzels, etc 30

Ou Fertilizers 40

On Or.ion Raising 30

On Squashes 30

Harris, Joseph. Gardening for Young and Old 1.25

Talus on Manures. New and Revised Edition. . . 1.75

Henderson, Peter. Gardening for Pleasure. New, enlarged edition. 2.00

Gardening for Profit. New and Enlarged Edition. 2.00

Garden and Farm Topics 1.50

Hand Book of Plants 3.00

Practical Floriculture. New and Enlarged Edition 1.50

Henderson &, CrOZier. How the Farm Pays 2.50

Hop Culture. New and Revised Edition. Paper 30

Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening. Vols. I., H. m.

and IV. Each 5.00

Johnson, M. W. How to Plant. Paper 50

Johnson, Prof. S. W. How Crops Feed 2.00

How Crops Grow 2.00

Jones, B. W. The Peanut Plant. Paper 50

Lawn Planting. Paper 25

Leland. Farm Homes, In-Doors, and Out-Doors. New Edition 1.50

Long, Elias A. Ornamental Gardening for Americans 2.00

Morton. Farmer's Calendar 5.00

Nichols. Chemistryof Farm and Sea 1.25

Norton. Elements of Scientific Agriculture 75

Oemler. Truck-Fanning at the South 1.50

Onions. How to Raise them Profitably • S8

Our Farm of Four Acres. Paper .. . .30

Pabor, Wm. E. Colorado as an Agricultural State 1.50

Parsons. On th. -Rose 1.50

Pedder. Land Measurer for Farmers. Cloth .60

Plant Life on the Farm l 00

Quinn. Money in the Garden.. 1.50

Riley. Potato Pests. Paper 50

Robinson. Facts for Farmers 5.00

Roe. Play and Profit in my Garden 159

Roosevelt. Five Acres Too Much 1.50

Sheehan, Jas. Your Plants. Paper 40

Silos and Ensilage- New and Enlarged Edit' on 50

Starr. Farm Echoes 1.00

Stewart. Irrigation for the Farm, Garden and Orchard 1.50

0. JUDD CO.'S ALPHABETICAL CATALOGUE. 3

Stewart. Sorghum and Its Products 1.50

Ten Acres Enough 1.00

The Soil of the Farm l oo

Thomas. Farm Implements and Machinery 1.50

Tim Bunker Papers; or, Yankee Farming 1.50

Tobacco Culture. Paper: 25

Treat. Injurious Insects of the Farm and Garden 2.00

Ville. School of Chemical Manures. 1.25

High Farming without Manures 25

Artificial Manures 6.00

Waring. Book of the Farm 2.00

Draining lor Profit and Health 1.50

Waring. Elements of Agriculture 1.00

Farmers' "Vacation

Sanitary Drainage of Houses and Towns 2.00

Sanitary Condition in City and Country Dwellings 50

WaringtOn. Chemistry of the Farm 1.00

White. Gardening for the South 2.00

FRUITS, FLOWERS, ETC.

American Rose Culturist .30

American Weeds and Useful Plants

Bailey. Field Notes on Apple Culture 75

Black. The Cultivation of the Peach and the Pear on the Delaware

and Chesapeake Peninsula 1.50

BouSSingault. Rural Economy 1.00

Chorlton. Grape-Grower's Guide. New and Enlarged Edition 75

Collier, Peter. Sdrn!ium,~ite Culture and Manufacture 3.00

Common Sea Weeds. Boards 50

Down i ng. Fruits and Fruit Trees of America. New Edition 5.00

Rural Essays 3.00

Elliott. Hand Book for Fruit-Growers. Paper 60c. Cloth 1.00

Every Woman her own Flower Gardener 1.00

Fern Book for Everybody ••• 50

Fuller, A. S. Grape Culturist 1.50

-> ■ Illustrated Strawberry Culturist 25

Small Fruit Culturist. NewEdilion 1.50

Fulton. Peach Culture. New and Revised Edition 1.50

Heinrich. Window Flower Garden 75

Hibberd, Shirley. The Amateur's Flower Garden 2.50.

— The Amateur's Greenhouse and Conservatory. 2 50

The Amateur's Rose Book 2.50

Hoopes. Book of Evergreens 3.00

Husmann,Prof.CeO. American Grape growing and Wine Mailing 1.50

Johnson. Winter Greeneries at Home 1.00

Meech, Rev. W. W Quince Culture

Moore, Rev. J. W. Orange Culture 1.00

My Vineyard at Lakeview 1.25

Origin of Cultivated Plants 1.75

Quinn. Tear Culture for Profit. New and Revised Edition 1.00

4 0. JtDD CO.'S ALPHABETICAL CATALOGUE.

Rivers. Miniature Fruit Garden 1.00

Rixford. Wine Press and Cellar 1.50

Robinson. Ferns in their Homes and Oars 1.50

Roe. B - ;th Small Fruits 2.50

Saunders. I - := Injurious to Frui:- 3.00

Thomas. American Fruit CnlUuist 2.00

Vick. F. >wer and Vegetable Garden. Cloth 1.00

Webb, Jas. Cape Cod Cranberries. Paper 40

White. Cranberry Caltnre 1.25

Williams. B. S. Orchid Grower's Manna: 650

Wood, Samuel. Modem Window Gardening 1.25

Cattle, Dogs, Sheep, Swine, Poultry, Etc.

CATTLF, SHEEP, AMWB SWI2IB.

Allen, L. F. American Cattle. New and Revised Edition 2.50

Armatage, Prof. Ceo. E tajMtn H = Own Cattle Doctor. Bro.. 7.50

Armsby. Manual of Cattle Feeding 2.50

Cattle. T .. Varieties, Breeding, and Management To

Coburn, F. D. -vine Husbandry. New and Revised Edition 1.75

Clok. - - -= _f Sheep 1.25

Dadd Prof. Ceo. H. American Cattle Doctor. 12mo 1.50

— - — American Cattle Doctor. 8vo. Cloth. £50

Fleming. V :erinary Obstetrics 6.00

Cuenon. On Milch Cows 1.00

Harris, Joseph. OutuePig 1.50

Heatley, C. S. Every Man his Own Veterinarian. 12mo

Jennings. On Cattle and their Diseases 1.25

C v ;. . v.vine. andPou^ry 1.25

Jersey, Alderney, and Cuernsey Cow 130

Keeping One Cow

Macdonald. Food from the Far West 150

McClure. Diseases of the American Horse, Cattle, and Sheep 1.25

McCombie, Wm. Cattle and Cattle Breeders

Martin, R. B. H -P.: ?.ng and Pork-Making 40

Miles. -sock Breeding 150

Powers, Stephen. The American Merino for Wool and Mutton.

:.nd valuable work 1.50

Quincy, Hon. Josiah. On Soiling Cattle 1.25

Randall. Fine Wool Sheep Husbandry 100

Practical Shepherd. 2.00

Reasor. OntheHog 1.50

Sidney. On'nePi:: "50

Sheldon, J. P. - ~. Farming. Beina the Theory. Practice and

Methodf ::; ng. With 25 Colored Piates. 4to. Full Gilt S.00

Shepherd. Major W. Pram- Experience in Handling Cattle... 1.00

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Youatt. OuSheep.... 1.00

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most Complete Work ever Published on the Dog. 12mo 2.00

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Hooper, J. J. Dog and Gun. Paper ,. .30

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Paper 50

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By Andrew S. Fuller. Giving the Principles which Govern the
Development and Growth of Plants, their Botanical Affinities and
Peculiar Properties. Cloth, 12mo. With numerous engravings.

THE DAIRYMAN'S MANUAL $1.50

By Henry Stewart, author of "Irrigation," "The Shepherd's
Manual," etc. Cloth, 12mo.

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE $1.50

A Guide to the Successful Propagation and Cultivation of Florists'
Plants. Re-written and Enlarged. By Peter Henderson. Cloth
12mo.

GARDENING FOR PROFIT $2.00

By Pet kb I1i:vd':r>n. A new, entirely re-written, and greatly en-
larged edition of this well-known standard work. The best book on
market and family gardening. Fully Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo.

GARDENING FOR PLEASURE $2.00

By Peter Henderson. New Edition, greatly enlarged.
For all who keep a garden for their own enjoyment, rather than for
sale of products. Fully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo.

Send postal card for our 80-page elegantly illustrated
Catalogue of our 300 Rural Publications.

0. JUDD CO., DAVID W. JUDD, Pres't.

751 BROADWAY, NEW YOISK.

Ther

fAgriciiIJurfei

-^- FOR THE -S=-

Farm, Garden and Household.

Established in 1842.

The Best and Cheapest Agricultural Journal in the World

The American Agriculturist (so-called because started in 1 842, as a Rural
Periodical) has been greatly enlarged and widened in scope, without change of
name, until it now meets the wants of aix classes, in City, Village and Coun-
try : it is literally evebtbodt's papeb. It helps the farmer, the gardexer.
the frctt gbower. the mechanic, the pbofessioxal and Brsn«Ess man ; it
greatly aids every HorsEKEEPEB ; it pleases and instructs the touth and the
little nana.

It is enited with great care, labor, and expense, to have every line
reliable, while its pages abound in a great variety of useful, practical,
reliable iuforiiiation and suggestions.

Every Bomber describes, with engravings, a great variety of Labor-saving,
Labor-helping devices and Household Economies, Animals, Plants. Flowers!
etc. In this respect it surpasses, by far, all other like journals, and will be
found valuable and he'pful by every" one. no matter how many other journals
he may have.

Iti constant Exposures of Humbugs and Swindling Schemes are
invaluable everywhere, and save many times its cost to almost every reader. It
admits no medical advertisements, and no untrustworthy advertisers. Its large
circulation enables the Publishers to issue it at very low rates, and to deal
liberally with subscribers in the way of premiums, etc.

Terms, which include postage pre-paid by the Publishers : §1.50 per
annum, in advance ; 3 copies for §4 : 4 copies for $5 ; 5 copies for $6 ;
6 copies for $7 : 7 copies for $8; 10 or more copies, only $1 each. Single
Numbers, 15 cents.

: ^PERIK^XISCpE^^61^ICaiiTO^IST. ^

The only purely Agricultural German paper in the United States, and the
best in the world. It contains all the principal matter of the English Edition,
together with special departments for German cultivators, prepared by writers
trained for the work. Terms same as for the J/neiican Agriculturist.

0. JUDD CO., DAVID W. JUDD, Pres't, 751 Broadway, N. Y.

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