FISHING KITS
'''^UIPMENT
UC-NRLF
$B 571 &ED
»AMUEL CI. CAMF
BERKELEY
L! ^RY
V
UN* "^ GITY OF
C> ORNIA
FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
KEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO • DALLAS
ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO
MACMILLAN & CO.. Limited
LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA
MELBOURNE
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
OP CANADA, Limited
TORONTO
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2007 with funding from
Microsoft Corporation
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An Unexpected Strike
FISHING KITS
AND EQUIPMENT
BY
SAMUEL G. CAMP
i5cto liorft
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
1936
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Copyright, 1 91 3,
By THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.
All rights reserved — no part of this book may be
reproduced in any form without permission in writing
from the publisher, except by a reviewer who wishes
to quote brief passages in connection with a review
written for inclusion in magazine or newspaper.
FERRIS PRINTING COMPANY
NEW YORK
6HHSI
il3
TO THE
'MEN I HAVE FISHED WITH''
275
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
The series of articles — here thoroughly revised and
considerably extended — upon which this book is based
originally appeared in Recreation, The author's
thanks are hereby tendered the publishers of that maga-
zine for permission to use the papers in the present
form.
Credit is due also to Mr. Edward Cave of Recre-
ation for the use of several photographs.
SAMUEL G. CAMP.
Canaan, Connecticut.
CONTENTS
CHAP. PAGE
I. The Preliminary Cast 15
II. The Fly-Rod for Trout Fishing . . 18
III. Fittings for the Fly-Rod .... 29
IV. Choice and Use of the Fly-Rod . . 40
V. Reels, Lines, and Leaders . • . . 57
VI. Flies That Trout Like .... 79
VII. Clothes and Other Accessories . . 93
VIII. The Rod for Bait-Casting ... 105
IX. Reels, Lines, and Artificial Baits . 117
X. General Sweet- Water Tackle . .131
ILLUSTRATIONS
An Unexpected Strike. From a Painting
BY Oliver Kemp Frontispiece
facing
PAGE
The Deep Holes are the Trout's Favorite
Lurking Places 26
Four Representative Split Bamboo Fly-
Rods 46
Single Action Click Reels 58
Quadruple-multiplying Casting Reels . . 58
Great Care must be Exercised when Land-
ing IN THE Rapids 68
Variety of Form in Trout Flies .... 84
Wet-fly Book, Pocket Scales, One-drop Oil
Can, and Pocket Kit of Tools for Use in
Making Flies and Mending Tackle . . 92
The " Henshall " Casting Rod . . • .110
Three Types of Bait-casting Rods . . . no
All Sorts of Tackle 128
A Good Spot to Cast where the Stream
Widens Out 138
FISHING KITS AND
EQUIPMENT
CHAPTER I
THE PRELIMINARY CAST
And let us buy for the days of spring
While yet the north winds blow!
For half the joy of the trip, my boy.
Is getting your traps to go.
The Tent Dwellers,
ANGLERS, so far as the tackle question is con-
cerned, may be divided into two classes;
those who make their own rods, flies and cer-
tain other items of the fishing kit, and those who
from lack of mechanical ability or time, or perhaps in-
clination, buy their tackle. That this latter class is
very greatly in the majority goes without saying; and
It IS equally certain that a large part of the tackle
bought is entirely unsuited, for various reasons, to the
purpose for which it was intended. The man who is
a beginner at any form of angling and goes to the
IS
i6 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
tackle shop with the idea of purchasing an outfit, say
for fly-fishing for trout, frequently comes away with
an assortment of junk utterly useless for that pur-
pose. On the stream the outfit naturally proves far
from a success — whereupon the fisherman concludes
that fly-fishing is not for him, or any man in his senses,
smashes or sells the tackle and goes out of business
permanently. Also, since the various forms of angling
are very unlike, it is quite possible for a man to be an
expert in one branch of the sport and a novice at an-
other. The great number of fly-casters who have re-
cently taken up bait-casting from the reel is an instance
of this.
It is the writer's purpose to treat systematically the
subject of tackle and, in addition, to suggest what
tackle to select for the brook trout, the black bass, and
other sweet-water game fishes. The reader is duly
warned that he will seek in vain herein for exciting
tales of mortal combats with huge bass or trout — for
fish stories of any sort, either alleged or experienced.
Neither are there picturesque descriptions of the moun-
tain trout stream or the forest-bordered bass lake.
Also, learned discussion or academic theorizing anent
the haunts and habits of fishes must be sought else-
where. We are here strictly concerned with the prac-
tical, unsung side of the subject — how to outfit for
a trout, bass or other fishing trip ; how to select a good
fly- or bait-casting rod; how the rods are made and
how they should be used ; the proper selection of reels,
THE PRELIMINARY CAST 17
lines, flies and other tools and tackle; and matters of
like nature. All of which things, it is respectfully sub-
mitted, are, in a way, of some small value to a fisher-
man.
Necessarily, in view of the subject-matter, there will
be much " shop talk," and to some it may seem that
there is considerable hair-splitting regarding what is
likely to prove satisfactory and what is not. In an-
swer to such an objection, one might say that, as a
matter of fact, the whole subject of tackle is of strictly
secondary importance — absolutely subservient to the
real purpose of the sport, the hardy outdoor life of the
woods and streams. But, nevertheless, the man who
relies upon angling as the medium of his communica-
tion with the open cannot place too much importance
on the quality and suitability of the fishing kit. It is
a time-worn and very true sporting axiom that a poor
gun makes a poor shot; and shoddy, ill-chosen tackle
makes a careless, and consequently a disappointed an-
gler. The sportsman to fully enjoy his trip, to want
to go again, must meet with at least moderate success
whether his purpose be the taking of game or game
fish; and good guns and fine, well-selected tackle go a
very long way toward insuring this success.
CHAPTER II
THE FLY-ROD FOR TROUT FISHING
THE Eastern brook trout, except upon rare oc-
casions and in exceptional localities, is not to
be taken save through the exercise of con-
siderable skill on the part of the angler. Generally
speaking, the factors which make a consistently success-
ful angler, one who usually makes a pretty good show-
ing except when the conditions of wind, weather and
water are collectively or severally against him, are
knowledge of the habits of the game-fish sought, pa-
tience, good fishing tackle, and a thorough knowledge
of how to use it. In no form of angling are these
things more essential than in fly-fishing for the speckled
trout.
The acquirement of the natural history of game-
fish, the possession and exercise of care and patience,
and the ability to handle tackle skilfully are, more or
less, matters of the personal equation, supplemented, in
the case of tackle-handling, by intelligent and faithful
practice. Good fishing tackle is a matter of dollars and
cents, and, naturally, a knowledge of what is good
tackle and what is not is necessary in its selection. In
i8
FLY-ROD FOR TROUT FISHING 19
the long run the most successful way of taking trout is
fly-fishing for them — when it is done rightly. The
outfit for trout fly-fishing is composed of a fairly long
list of various items, some of them apparently unim-
portant but nevertheless by no means to be overlooked.
In trout fly-fishing it is the little things that count.
Looking over the list of necessaries it is hard to de-
termine just which of the different essential things is
most important; but, logically, the fly-rod first calls
for consideration.
It may be stated at the outset that, in the opinion
of expert rod makers and rod users, fly-rods of split-
bamboo, or split and glued cane as they
are sometimes called, are unquestionably Qualities
the best. This is because the split- ^ ,
bamboo rod possesses in a greater degree
than rods of any other material or combination of
materials the essential qualities which any rod must
have to distinguish it from a mere " fish pole." These
qualities are: Lightness, pliancy, resiliency, strength
and balance.
In addition to the fact that good sportsmanship de-
mands the use of a light rod, such a rod is in many
ways the most desirable. The advantages of lightness
in the fly-rod are so obvious that it is hardly necessary
to enlarge upon them. Moreover, if you wish a heavy
rod you will have to build it yourself or import it
from England. Generally speaking, all American rods
are light. One advantage of the light rod is the re-
20 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
suiting comfort of the user. The angler whose fish-
ing days are few and far between likes to hit the river
early in the day and stay with it as long as he can
see his flies. It is hard work even with the lightest
rods. This subject will be discussed more specifically
under the subject of length and weight which will be
taken up in a later chapter.
The fly-rod must have the correct degree of pliancy,
although the question of how great that degree should
be is, in a measure, a matter of taste, some preferring
a whippy rod and others one moderately stiff. The
rod best adapted to average trout fishing in streams —
and it should be said that average stream fishing is
always implied herein unless another form is specific-
ally mentioned — should, however, be neither whippy
nor stiff. When fishing in strong rapids a whippy rod
IS a mighty poor tool. It has neither the ability to
answer at once to the angler's strike, nor, in case the
trout is fortunately hooked, the backbone to handle him
properly. In addition to this, a whippy rod is not
suited to long casting — not tournament distances
but fishing casts — for the simple reason that it will
not lift a good length of line from the water. Nor is
the stiff rod desirable. On surface indications one
would conclude that since, as above stated, a too
pliant rod does not cast well, a stiff rod should be a
strong caster. Such is not the case however. A rod
that is very stiff refuses to aid the angler in casting
the line; it does not bend sufficiently, and consequently
FLY-ROD FOR TROUT FISHING 21
the "whip" of the rod, the elastic action that sends
the flies out straight and far is lacking. Fly-casting
is a matter of the wrist aided by the rod, and if the
rod fails to do its part it is obvious that poor casting
only can result, and casting that if long continued
grows very tiring to the angler. Failing proper rod
action, strong-arm casting must be resorted to. It is
good exercise, but best avoided if possible.
Remember when testing the rod for pliancy — we
will talk later about testing the rod — that a rod
which has a tendency toward being whippy will in
time develop that characteristic very strongly. The
rod which inclines to stiffness, not actual inelasticity,
but a good strong suggestion of backbone, is the one
you want. It will in a short time with a moderate
use, come down to the desired pliancy, and it will stay
there. The use of a heavy line will improve the cast-
ing of a stiff rod quite measurably. If you find your-
self with a rod on your hands that has this objection,
use a heavy line and, when you can, cast a long line.
The long heavy line tends to produce action in the
rod, and in due time, if the rod is not incurable, it may
work down to a decent degree of pliancy.
On the other hand a whippy rod can be considerably
improved either by additional windings of silk, or by
removing the windings from the entire rod and re-
placing them at closer intervals. It should also be
noted that a stiff rod, apart from the objection that
with it good casting is impossible, is also undesirable
22 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
in that with such a rod it is very difficult to avoid
handling the fish too roughly. From the middle to the
end of the open season low and clear water is the
rule, a condition which the angler meets with small
flies and light leaders. With a stiff rod and light ter-
minal tackle quick, sharp striking is more than apt to
result in tearing the small hook away from the trout,
or, in case the fish is a large one, snapping off the fly.
The rod quality of resiliency is often confused with
that of pliancy. The two qualities are, however, quite
different, although, in a way, interdependent. As a
very rough example of the distinction between pliancy
and resiliency it may be said that a piece of copper wire
may be bent, thus showing the possession of pliancy, but
when the strain is released it will retain the bend. But
if you bend a piece of whalebone it will, when re-
leased, immediately spring back to its normal condition.
Resiliency, then, is the rod's ability always to come
back, rebound, to the normal after any reasonable
strain. It can only be attained by expert construction
and the use of the best material obtainable. The de-
gree in which the rod is endowed with this quality de-
termines the length of its life, for no one likes to use
a rod which has lost its speed and liveliness, and has
acquired a lifeless and permanent set, although other-
wise It may be intact.
That the rod must have strength is sufficiently plain.
Balance, the question whether the rod fits you or not,
is one of the things to think of when selecting a fly-rod.
FLY-ROD FOR TROUT FISHING 23
It IS quite certain that, no matter how good the rod
may be otherwise, if it does not suit you, is not adapted
to your particular method of casting (every angler de-
velops an individual casting method), if it is a little
too heavy in the tip, or possibly a shade too heavy in
the butt, or if for any reason the rod does not feel
right to you, it is a much better plan to choose an-
other rod than to try to accustom yourself to that
particular rod's peculiarities. The chances are that if
you try to get used to the rod, someone else will even-
tually own it, or it will occupy a very permanent place
in the rod rack.
The split-bamboo rod of good grade possesses each
of the foregoing essential qualities in a greater degree
than rods of any other material. They
are usually made of six or eight strips, ■*■ ^^ Split-
hexagonal or octagonal, and from two t^ j
varieties of cane, Calcutta and Tonkin,
the merits of which are about equal. Triangular
strips are split and fashioned from the whole cane and
cemented and bound together to form the rod joint.
Mechanical skill of the highest order is necessary, and
the fly-rods turned out by our best rod makers are
veritable works of art. The best rods are made en-
tirely by hand.
The comparative merits of hexagonal or octagonal
rods have been the subject of long discussion, but at
present expert opinion is strongly on the side of the six-
strip rod. The chief argument against the eight-strip
U FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
rod is that in the tip- joint, and proportionately in the
other joints, where the separate strips
Six- or ^j.g necessarily slender, the tip of eight
eight-
strip?
strips consists, to exaggerate a little, of
about equal parts of glue and wood.
That the tip is apt to be soft goes without saying. It
IS, however, perfectly feasible to have the butt and
middle joints of the rod eight-strip, and the tip six-
strip, and some rods are made in this way. The best
rods of two of the most prominent New York tackle
dealers, both for fishing and tournament work, are six-
strip. Another well-known firm furnishes its best rod
in both the six- and eight-strip styles, with an addi-
tional charge of $iO for the eight-strip rod.
Variations of the split-bamboo rod as regards con-
struction, taking the hexagonal or octagonal rod as the
standard, are not numerous in this coun-
Variations try. In England a good many rods are
^ y^ built with steel centers, and some are
bamboo, tnown as double-built rods. In the
steel-center rods there is a core of spring
steel wire extending through the entire length of the
joints for the purpose of making the rods more springy,
stronger and better casters. In the double-built rods
a core of either six or eight strips of cane is first made
in the usual manner, and then other strips are laid
on over these. Double-built rods with steel centers are
also made. In this regard it is worthy of note that
England's famous exponent of the dry-fly, Mr. F. M.
FLY-ROD FOR TROUT FISHING 25
Halford, in his book The Theory And Practice of
Dry-Fly Fishing, declares very strongly in favor of
the split-bamboo of regular construction.
Without going into the subject further, it may be
said that while the double-built, the steel-centered and
the eight-strip rods are undoubtedly eflGcient, their ad-
vantages over the six-strip rod are more theoretical than
practical. The angler may rest assured that if he se-
lects a good six-strip rod he has as good as there is.
Another method of split-bamboo rod construction,
which IS applied to solid wood rods as well, consists
of spirally winding the entire rod with fine metal
threads. The metal-whipped rods, either of split-
bamboo or solid wood, are good rods. Personally, I
have never used the metal-whipped rod, but I know
several very expert fly-fishermen who swear by them.
Metal-whipped rods are also made in England.
Bear in mind that only the split-bamboo rod of
good quality deserves the unreserved recommendation
above other rods which is here and universally given
It. Only in the best split-bamboo rods is there that
unity of good material and conscientious workmanship
which insures to the angler a satisfactory tool. Cheap
split-bamboos are abominations, and the source of un-
ending trouble to the man who attempts to use them.
Also, It IS quite possible to make a split-bamboo rod
which, to the eye of the novice, appears all that it should
be; in fact, it may even look better to the novice than
an unpretentious rod of the very highest quality to pro-
26 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
duce which the maximum of skilled hand-labor has been
called upon and the minimum of barber-post windings
and fancy trimmings. Caveat emptor should be the
maxim of every man who barters for a fly-rod. What
to pay for a rod will be discussed in a subsequent chap-
ter.
Rods for trout fly-fishing are also made of the solid
woods bethabara, greenheart and lancewood, and of
steel. The steel rods, very good rods
Utner Koa ^^^ certain purposes, are most emphat-
Materials. . „ , • n ,• -ru
ically of no use in ny-casting. Ine ac-
tion of the rods is very harsh, while at the same time
they are lacking in the elastic whip that puts out the
flies lightly and far. Moreover, they are heavy. One
way to describe the inherent unfitness of the steel rod
for fly-casting is to say that it is too metallic. The
" gentle turn of the wrist " used in striking the small
trout of our mountain streams, no matter how care-
fully done, with a steel rod results in a brutal snap
that many times tears the hook away from the fish.
On no account get a steel rod for fly-fishing. They
are very good and handy rods for certain purposes and
their proper uses will be mentioned later.
Of the solid wood rods, bethabara, greenheart and
lancewood, it may be said that rods well made from
any of these materials are good rods, although they
suffer in comparison with the split-bamboo. Not every
man, however, can afford the latter. It is an axiom
that It IS much better to pay a certain price for a solid
a,
FLY-ROD FOR TROUT FISHING 27
wood rod, thereby getting the best quality rod of that
particular material, than to pay the same price for a
split-bamboo which for the same amount can only be
obtained in a poor grade. The fact that solid wood
rods of the best quality, and in other grades in pro-
portion, are much cheaper than the split-bamboo rods,
does not by any means imply that they are essentially
" cheap " rods. The making of a split-bamboo rod,
requiring as it does for the best rods careful selection
of material and the very highest skill in the maker,
very naturally results in a comparatively high price.
Rods of solid wood are by their very nature easier rods
to make, and in most cases satisfactory material is easier
to obtain. Rods of any of these materials are heavier
for any given length than the split-bamboo rods.
Of the solid wood rods lancewood rods are the
most common. This material is not quite the equal of
greenheart. Bethabara is the best. In England,
where heavier fly-rods are commonly used, greenheart
is the most general rod material, taking precedence
over split-bamboo. Bethabara is an excellent material,
rods made from it being very handsome, and having
in a satisfactory degree the essential rod qualities.
The wood is of dark color and takes on a fine natural
finish. Selected bethabara is sometimes called noib-
wood. Bethabara rods are not very common in the
tackle shops although many rods are made from this
material by amateurs. Lancewood is the most easily
obtainable rod material and has over greenheart and
2S FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
bethabara the advantage of lightness, although not in
a very decided degree. Lancewood rods are apt to be
too whippy and rather slow in action. It should be
remembered that I am now speaking of fly-rods purely.
For some purposes the solid wood rods are preferable
to split-bamboo.
CHAPTER III
FITTINGS FOR THE FLY-ROD
WHEN you have decided upon the material
for your rod there remain a number of me-
chanical details of construction, in addition
to various questions of length, weight and the like,
to be considered. We will take it for granted that
you have decided to get a fly-rod of six-strip split-
bamboo. A visit to the tackle shop or the consulta-
tion of the tackle catalogue of a large dealer will show
you that you have still to decide about the number of
rod joints; style of ferrules and hand-grasp; form of
handle or butt, whether integral or independent; the
form of guides and windings; and the style of reel-
seat. We will first take up these latter details and
then consider the matter of length and weight of the
rod.
Fly-rods are usually made with three joints, the
butt, middle joint and tip or, as the last
is called in England, the top. There Ro^t^^jJ^^^
are, however, variations of construction
in this regard. For obvious reasons the one-piece rod,
that is a rod with spliced joints, is the ideal rod; but
29
30 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
fly-rods of one piece are not commonly procurable.
Such a rod has, of course, the very great disadvantage
of being difficult to transport. The next form is the
two-piece rod which also has obvious disadvantages
and is not common. The standard fly-rod, as we have
said, is made in three joints, an extra tip being always
furnished with the rod ; and for ordinary purposes this
is by far the most desirable form. For the angler who
makes long trips on which the duffle must be reduced to
a minimum various kinds of combination, tourist and
trunk rods are made.
Of the combination rods it may be said that any
rod constructed with a view to fulfilling several pur-
poses cannot by its very nature be exactly suited to
any one of these purposes. It is far better, if at all
practicable, to pack two rods, one for fly-fishing and
another for bait-casting or other fishing, than to at-
tempt to do the work with a combination rod. It is
obvious that a rod expertly made with a view to one
use only is better than one modified in various ways
so that by different combinations it can be used for
several purposes. However, in case such a rod is by
way of being a necessity, it is possible to get some
very fine ones so far as material and workmanship are
concerned. But do not use one unless you have to for
some good reason.
The tourist fly-rods are of the greatest utility.
These rods are not combination in character but con-
sist of several interchangeable joints with a view to
FITTINGS FOR THE FLY-ROD 31
meeting the contingencies of a long, hard trip in
the woods. Very few rods in expert hands are broken
on fish; but on the portage, or in the boat or canoe,
or while tearing your way through thick brush, the
chances of a smash-up are numerous. For this reason
no one should start on a trip of this character with-
out, at the very least, one extra rod. But, while fly-
rods are very light, a bundle of two or three, or the
same number carried in a leather rod case, makes a
very unhandy package. The tourist rods are made for
the purpose of doing away with this difficulty. The
independent handle, which we will discuss later, is a
regular part of the tourist fly-rod, and otherwise the
rod consists of two butt-joints, two middle-joints and
three tips. The independent handle is carried sepa-
rately, and the joints are packed in a case of small
caliber, making a much more portable package than a
number of individual rods.
In the trunk or pack rods the idea of portability is
carried to the extreme. Rods consisting of as many
as nine or more short joints are made, the usual num-
ber being six. It is obvious that the number of fer-
rules necessary in such a rod must materially affect its
action, the tendency being to make the rod too stiff.
These rods, also, run rather short, eight and a half
or nine feet being the limit. Only in the very best
grades are such rods at all satisfactory; and if ex-
treme portability is no object it is much better to let
the other fellow use them.
k
35 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
German silver is the usual ferrule material on all
rods of good grade and is perfectly suited to the pur-
pose. It should be remembered, how-
ever, that German silver is not all of
one quality, and the mere fact that the ferrules are of
" German silver " does not guarantee them unless the
material and workmanship are right. The best Ger-
man silver ferrules are hand-wrought and approach
steel in hardness. On the cheaper grade rods nickel-
plated ferrules are used, and on some rods plain brass
ferrules. Both of these should be avoided. To the
novice a ferrule is a ferrule, and that is the end of
It; the old-timer, however, knows that there are cer-
tain qualities which the ferrule must have in order to
be entirely satisfactory. In the first place the fer-
rules should be "waterproof" in order to prevent
rotting of the rod material at their bases. In the
waterproof ferrules a metal disc is placed across the
inside of the ferrule next to the wood of the joint,
thus making it impossible for water to reach the wood.
Also, the ferrule should be " ser-
f ] ^ '^ rated" or "split." This means
that the end of the ferrule which
Serrated Ferrules, is secured to the rod joint is, in
the case of serration, cut into saw-teeth or crown-
shaped; or, in case the ferrule is split, that the base
of the ferrule is cut or split in several places. Both
of these processes are for the purpose of making the
ferrule easier to bind hard and fast to the rod joint,
FITTINGS FOR THE FLY-ROD 33
the serration or splitting making it possible for the
cement and silk winding to bind the ferrule much
more securely than in the case of ferrules with plain
bases.
Next, the open end of the female ferrule should be
" welted " ; that is, the end is strengthened with an
extra band or welt of metal. And, finally, the ferrule
should be " capped," meaning that at the binding end
of the ferrule it is " shouldered " to cause more perfect
contact of rod joint and ferrule and to prevent the
ferrule from slipping. To sum up, the ferrules of the
new rod should be waterproof, capped, serrated and
welted. And the material should certainly be Ger-
man silver.
In England various methods are resorted to for the
purpose of making the rod stronger at the ferrules.
Rods are made which have to be spliced in order to
assemble them — doing away with ferrules entirely —
and in other cases the ferrules are fitted with metal
hitches so that they may be locked or lashed together
when the rod is assembled. These methods are em-
ployed, as I have said, for the purpose of making the
rod stronger, and also to prevent throwing apart in
casting. It is, perhaps, needless to advise against the
use of anything of the sort, for the simple reason that
you cannot find any American rod having this feature.
Those who are in a position to know, state that these
methods are employed in England because there fer-
rules approaching to anything like the excellence of
34 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
those produced in America are not to be found. If
your rod is fitted with good grade, American made
ferrules you need not worry about its strength; and,
moreover, if you throw it apart in casting, consider it
a miracle and let it go at that. It will not happen
again.
Doweled ferrules, formerly the subject of much dis-
cussion, are things of the past and not to be found on
the best fly-rods of the present time. The fact that
they are no longer used is the best argument against
them, and we will not go into ancient history.
Many anglers object to the brightness of German
silver ferrules, claiming that the flash of the metal in
the sun alarms the fish. Undoubtedly this is true to
a certain extent, but its importance is often exag-
gerated. The angler who wishes to may have the fer-
rules oxidized to his order. Ferrules of German silver
will, in time, tarnish to a certain extent, dulling con-
siderably. This tarnish can easily be removed, but it
is a good plan to let it remain thus doing away with
any extreme flashiness of the ferrules.
The chief consideration in regard to the handgrasp
is the material. Handgrasps are commonly made of
plain wood, celluloid, wood cord-wound.
The Hand- j^^j.j rubber, wood cane-wound, cork
orT*3.SO
and "solid cork." All of these ma-
terials, with the exception of solid cork, make fairly
good grips; solid cork makes the finest possible grip.
The rod-buyer should bear in mind that the handgrasp
FITTINGS FOR THE FLY-ROD 35
catalogued and sold simply as cork is nothing more
than a thin sheathing of cork, or a composition re-
sembling the same, glued over a wooden form. It is
the worst and most unserviceable of all handgrasps.
Solid cork grips are always so described, and consist of
Swelled Handgrasp of Fly-rod.
a number of thick, graduated cork " washers " closely
fitted and glued over a core of wood, making a light,
strong grip, one that feels good to the rod hand and
affords an easy and firm hold. And it will last.
Handgrasps of the other materials, especially the cel-
luloid grasp which is generally corrugated, are more
or less hard on the rod hand in long continued casting.
Next in order to the solid cork grasp the cane-wound
is most satisfactory.
The handgrasp for the fly-rod is made in two gen-
Shaped Handgrasp of Fly-rod.
erally accepted forms as regards the shape. These are
the " swelled " grasp and the " shaped " grasp. The
swelled grip is largest in circumference at the middle
and gradually tapers toward the ends. The shaped
grasp tapers from the middle but enlarges again at
each end. Either is perfectly satisfactory and whether
k
36 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
you should use one or the other is merely a matter
of taste. The swelled grip is the most commonly used
and IS the one generally furnished on rods good, bad
and indifferent. As a rule the shaped grip is found
only on the high grade rods with independent handle.
The handle of the fly-rod consists principally of the
grip and reel-seat, other parts being the butt-cap, or
the metal cap at the bottom of the
H HI handle — in English rods this is usually
a hard rubber button — and the " ta-
per" which binds the top of the grip material at the
junction of the handle and the butt-joint. We have
considered the grip, and the reel seat will be men-
tioned later. The only thing, then, to decide about
the handle is whether it is to be integral or inde-
pendent; that IS, whether the handle shall be a per-
manent part of the butt-joint, or a separate length
provided with a ferrule into which the butt-joint fits.
The independent handle is advocated on the ground
of the greater portability and longer life of the rod.
Its advantages are best described by H, P. Wells in
Fly-Rods And Fly-Tackle. He says: " Insist on the
independent handle. By independent handle is meant
one so united to the butt-joint by a ferrule that the
rod may be turned half-way around in the handle and
back again at frequent intervals while fishing — say
every half hour anyway and always immediately after
the rod had been subjected to a heavy strain. Thus
the rod is used with the rings above and below in
FITTINGS FOR THE FLY-ROD 37
frequent alternation, the strains to which the rod is
subject offset and neutralize one another, and the rod
will retain throughout its life that perfect identity of
action on both the forward and back casts, the lack of
which, in my judgment, is one of the very worst faults
a fly-rod can have."
As above noted the independent handle is used on
the tourist fly-rods and makes it possible for the angler
to carry the equivalent of three individual rods in a
very small package. For mountain stream fishing,
where the fish are not large and the fishing trips short
ones, the rod has usually abundant time to " get
rested " and the independent handle is hardly impera-
tive. It increases the rod lengths by one and the fer-
rules by two, neither of which things is greatly de-
sirable for a good many reasons.
It is hardly necessary to state that for the fly-rod
the reel-seat must be placed below the handgrasp. In
common with all other metal rod-fit-
tings, the material should be German •'•^^ Keel-
se3.t
silver. If the rod is to be used for
heavy fishing some form of locking reel-seat, of which
there are several kinds, might be advisable. For or-
dinary purposes nothing of the sort is necessary.
These devices are for the purpose of firmly locking
reel to reel-seat as a guard against any possibility of
the reel working loose while casting or playing a fish.
Some fly-rods are furnished with reel-bands only.
This form is not as serviceable as the ordinary metal
38 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
reel-seat. Its only advantage is that it makes the rod
a little lighter.
The guides ordinarily used on fly-rods are of two
kinds, rings-and-keepers, and English snake guides.
Of the two, snake guides are very much
uuiaes. ^j^^ j^^g^^ j^^^ ^^Yy does the line render
more freely through them but they are much stronger
and less liable to become
bent than the ring guides;
I. 2. and they facilitate " string-
1. Ordinary Tip-guide. . » ^u j
ing up the rod very ma-
2. Agate Tip-guide. . ,, ^ , . , ,
tenally. bnake guides of
German silver are rather soft and the continued action
of the line through them soon produces grooves. This
is particularly the case with the hand-
guide — the guide next the reel — and
the top guide. For this reason steel ^•
guides are the better. As an aid to C^V^^
casting and for the purpose of saving 2.
,. . . , , , , I. Ring- and-
line-wear it is a good plan to have the Keeper Guide.
rod fitted with an agate hand-guide 2. English
and agate top. If the rod is thus ^^^^^ ^^^°^-
fitted German silver will do for the rest of the guides.
Agates cost from $0.75 to $1.00 each.
The rod should be wound at in-
tervals of not more than an inch
Narrow Agate and a half at any part, and much
Guide. closer than that toward the tip-
end. Windings of some shade of red are very satis-
FITTINGS FOR THE FLY-ROD 39
factory, as this color is less liable to fade badly than
some others. A very pale green is also
^ * a good color. Plain windings are to be
preferred to two-color windings since they are easier
to renew. Rods are made " solid-wound," that is, the
entire rod is wound with silk; they are not, however,
a success, being too soft. Avoid any freak or fancy
windings. The very best fly-rods are " as plain as an
old shoe."
Recapitulation.
Aside from the question of weight and length the
rod specifications should be about as follows:
Material: Six-strip split-bamboo.
Number of joints: Three. Optional, but not ad-
vised except for extraordinary occasions — the tourist
rod, the trunk rod, the comhination rod.
Ferrules: German silver; waterproof ; capped; ser-
rated; welted,
Handgrasp: Solid cork. Next best, cane-wound.
Reel-seat: German silver; below grip.
Guides: Snake guides preferably of steel, other-
wise German silver. Optional, agate hand- and top-
guides.
Windings : Plain red or green silk.
CHAPTER IV
CHOICE AND USE OF THE FLY-ROD
THE manner in which the rod should be fitted,
or mounted, being determined, we have next
to consider its length and weight. These
questions are largely ones of locality and the average
size of trout in the waters to be fished. In this mat-
ter, however, anglers are quite apt to be extremists,
some favoring very light rods and others rods rather
heavy. We will take it for granted that, at present,
you do not care to buy more than one rod, since, ii
the rod is a good one, it will cost quite a bit; and,
with this in mind, we will try to choose the best weight
and length of rod for practically all-round trout fly-
fishing. You cannot be too careful in this regard ; for,
no matter how satisfactory the rod may otherwise be, if
you take a dislike to its weight or length, or if actual
use of the rod proves that it is unsuitable to your fa-
vorite trout stream, you are at once in the market for
a new rod. Without doubt there is a certain pleasure
in picking up new tackle ; but beyond a fixed point —
which may be designated in dollars and cents — the
pleasure ceases abruptly. Every man will have his
40
CHOICE AND USE OF FLY-ROD 41
own idea as to a reasonable limitation of his invest-
ment in tackle, but it is a matter that all of us are
bound to keep in mind.
In the tackle stores you will find rods running from
8 to 11^ feet. In weight they vary from, as a rule,
3/4 to 9j4 ounces. These rods are in _ -
split-bamboo. It is quite evident that ^j^^
here is a large variety from which to se- Weight
lect, and that if your rod is to prove the ^^ Kod.
right one, your selection must be the result of very
judicious elimination. Solid wood rods average heav-
ier to the foot, and since, for fly-casting, they are not
the equals of the split-bamboo, we will not complicate
matters by including them. The first thing to do is to
pass over any rod exceeding ten feet, that is for actual
trout fishing. These rods are concessions to the Eng-
lish trade and for the long-distance tournament fly-
casters. Although It IS possible to imagine circum-
stances under which one could use a rod of this sort
to advantage on some particular occasion, for ordi-
nary use it is quite out of the question. The choice
of the rod should be made not only with regard to
giving the fish a show, but also with due regard to the
comfort of the angler. By way of experiment the
writer once put in a day's fishing with an 1 1 3^ foot
rod. This was on a stream that could truly be called
typical of our American trout waters. Morally the
experiment was costly. By sunset the rod had at-
tained a length of, approximately, one mile, and a
duly proportionate weight. When going through
42 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
brush its action was beautifully precise; it never
failed to catch. However, the necessity of enlarging
upon this is probably not imperative. It is enough to
say that the lesson was learned thoroughly and has
never been forgotten.
Going to the other extreme, the very light rods are
entitled to more serious consideration. That they are
fine little rods to handle goes without saying. Also,
if the mere size of the trout that you are likely to take
on one of them were the only question, they are plenty
large enough. Skilfully handled, they are capable of
landing your record trout " without turning a hair."
But, unfortunately, there are other things to be con-
sidered. Not one trout in a hundred, in stream fish-
ing, is hooked where the angler can let him have his
head. Sharp rocks, sunken logs, projecting tree-roots
and the like are familiar features of all our trout
streams, and most often the fish must be held hard
and killed quickly. The larger rods are better adapted
for this.
And here is a thing that must be reckoned with.
Some years ago tales of large trout in near-home wa-
ters were more or less not so. At the present time,
however, through the very extensive propagation and
distribution of brown and rainbow trout, the angler is
liable to be called upon at very short notice to have
It out with a trout weighing anywhere from two to
four pounds, and quite possibly more than that. A
fish of this size, in the average confined and brush-
CHOICE AND USE OF FLY-ROD 43
grown pools of our mountain streams, Is a pretty hard
proposition. You do not have to worry about giving
him a show — he takes it, and sometimes the leader
and the flies.
And then there is the fishing in strong rapids, a
component part of every day*s fishing on any sizable
stream. Here you have not only your fish to fight but
the impetuous, erratic strength of the current. That
the trout will take every advantage afforded by such
conditions is a foregone conclusion. Unless your tackle
is suited to hard work, and, as far as possible, of such
nature as to give reasonable control over the trout, the
result of the engagement is also a foregone conclusion,
or, at best, a matter of more time than should be the
case. It is not a matter of rod weight alone. Length,
inasmuch as it is this which determines in great meas-
ure the amount of control which you have over a
hooked fish, is also a deciding factor and a decided ad-
vantage.
The little rods easily lengthen out a line quite suffi-
cient for ordinary trout waters — under favorable cir-
cumstances. We hear much about the most favorable
times and conditions for fishing. How many of us
wait for these exact and Infallible conditions to ma-
terialize? We go fishing when we can, and If the
weather, water and the like are not precisely such as
the authorities state as requisite, we quite often catch
a few trout, and, anyway, we have a good time. Any-
one who has cast all day against a strong, steady wind,
44 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
knows how hard it is to do good work even with a
moderately heavy and long rod. And when, for hours,
you have cast in a drizzling rain, until the line in
spite of its waterproofing seems to have soaked up gal-
lons of water, and the rod, seemingly, has been re-
duced to lifeless pulp — then you realize how difficult
it is to cast " fine and far oflE " sometimes, even with-
out the handicap of a small, light rod. These things
should have weight in the process of elimination.
We have now, to our own satisfaction, at least, re-
duced the choice of a rod to the lengths between nine
and ten feet inclusive. The weights of these rods vary
from five to six ounces, in some cases with accom-
panying fractions. Any of these rods are good, every-
day " meat " rods, and if proper allowance for the
character of your favorite stream be made in the choice,
will answer all requirements.
As a final word on the subject of length and weight,
it may be said that the fly-rod of ten feet and weigh-
ing six ounces is by far the most capable
The all- ^j^j satisfactory rod for all waters except
Flv-rod. ^^^ small mountain brooks. If only
one rod is to be purchased, the ten-
footer is strongly advised.
Do not buy a rod from anyone or any
Where to f^^^ unless from a reputable rod maker
get the . . ,
j^Q^^ or from one of the concerns which
make a business of fishing tackle and,
therefore, cannot afford to sell poor stuff for good.
CHOICE AND USE OF FLY-ROD 45
You can get a rod (?) at the department store; from
a rod maker; from one of the big firms dealing in
tackle exclusively; or from one of the general "sport-
ing goods " houses. At any of these places, except the
first, you can get a good rod if you go about it rightly.
It is advisable, however, to purchase the rod either
from a professional rod maker or from one of the reg-
ular tackle firms.
Anyone who has attempted to sift out the very
best shotgun from the numerous shooting-irons on the
market knows that each firm in the gun business sells
the only really good gun ; and it's the same way with
fishing rods. Each of the reliable firms solemnly as-
sures you that its rod is the only real fly-rod — all
others are merely " poles." Of course this is not so,
and no one knows it better than the tackle people them-
selves. While it IS quite true that for tournament
casting only one or two firms supply a satisfactory rod,
for actual fishing it is possible to get a rod that, per-
haps, is entirely too good for you, at any of the best
places. Reference to the advertising pages of the bet-
ter class of outdoor magazines will give you the ad-
dresses of the best tackle dealers and tackle makers.
A careful and comparative study of the catalogues of
these firms cannot fail to be of advantage.
If the circumstances are such that you have to
buy your rod by mail, it is well to have two rods of
the dimensions you require sent you, with privilege of
examination, and you can return the one which seems
46 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
least satisfactory. It is impossible to make two rods
of identical action and balance although the rod
measurements and mountings may be the same. Buy-
ing a rod by catalogue is, in many respects, a lottery.
The angler should know perfectly what he wants be-
fore going ahead. If at all possible it is much better
to go to the tackle store and select the rod in person.
Six-strip split-bamboo fly-rods may be had for seven-
ty-five cents. They may also be procured for, say
forty-five dollars. The question is:
How much must you pay for a really
good rod ; a rod that will last a long time with mod-
erately hard use; will have a good appearance so that
you can show it to people without apologizing; will
have good casting and retrieving power together with
perfect action and balance; and, finally, will handle
efficiently a weighty trout in a tight place ? Obviously
the answer is not seventy-five cents — nor is it five dol-
lars.
For from $15 to $20 you can get a real fly-rod if
you go about it with discrimination ; and you cannot do
it for anything less than that, or if you fail to use dis-
crimination. Remember, in this connection, what was
said in the chapter on split-bamboo rod construction
concerning the manual skill and costly selection of ma-
terial required to produce a rod of good quality. The
average price of the best rods made by reputable rod
makers is $15; and they are good enough fishing rods
for anyone. Variations from the standard rod will
3 ^flH O .
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3 fi S OO '^ 05
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-^'£
53 J-"
CHOICE AND USE OF FLY-ROD 47
usually bring the price up to $17 or $18. The large
tackle firms of New York, Boston and other cities
furnish two classes of rods in addition to their cheap
stuff. The best rod sold by them usually costs about
$30; and a " medium price " rod is carried which sells
for something between $15 and $20. There is a vast
difference in the style and quality of these medium
priced rods. While they are all of them pretty fair
rods some of them are very much better than others.
Select the rod carefully. Compare the different rods
as regards their dimensions and mountings, their
weights, etc. Within the last few years a fly-rod has
been developed which differs considerably, when a num-
ber of small variations from the rod of a few yearf;
ago are added together, from what may be called the
" old-fashioned " rod. The new rod may, perhaps,
best be described, as being of " tournament style."
And that is the sort of rod you want.
And now as to the unquestionably high grade split-
bamboo rods. These rods may be had for from $25
to $45, in the three-joint-extra-tip style, with an aver-
age price of $30. Do not think they are not worth
It. While for various reasons it is not advisable for
one to spend that amount for a beginner's rod, it is cer-
tain that the fairly well advanced angler who can af-
ford It should not hesitate to avail himself of the many
undoubted advantages they offer. Although the va-
riation in desirability of these rods is not, for general
purposes, as large as in the case of those of medium
48 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
price, it is well to look around a little before commit-
ting yourself.
The best rods of lancewood, greenheart and other
solid woods may be had for from $8 to $i2. Any
of these rods is much better than a split-bamboo at
the same price, and will give the angler long and faith-
ful service, although they are not, as we have said,
as well adapted to fly-casting as the good quality split-
bamboo. The noibwood fly-rod sells for $15.
The best test of a fly-rod is ten years' hard work
on a trout stream ; but, since your tackle dealer would
probably be somewhat reluctant about
^, ^ r}^^ having the rod returned as not up to
the Rod. I ^ J r 1 . 1 . •
scratch at the end of that period, it is
necessary to test it in some other way. If you have
ever seen a rank novice selecting a rod you should
know, at any rate, how not to test the rod. He takes
hold of the extreme butt-end of the handgrasp, gin-
gerly, and, in the most perfectly lady-like manner, as
if the rod were made of glass, gently wafts it to and
fro through the sporting atmosphere of the tackle shop,
failing utterly to put the slightest snap, bend or action
into it. And if the variegated tints of the windings
happen to suit his artistic fancy, why, he just simply
buys. It's nice for the tackle man.
Do not be afraid of the rod — it will not bite you,
nor will it break — but grasp it firmly, with the thumb
on top and along the handgrasp as in actual casting,
and put the rod to work, into action. It should bend
CHOICE AND USE OF FLY-ROD 49
right from the handgrasp to the tip-end. Make sure
that the balance and weight suit you, and that the rod
feels full of life and speed. When testing the rod
for balance, weight and action it should be rigged
with the size and sort of reel you intend to use with
It, as this may make a very great difference in the
feel of the rod. Be sure that the rod does not feel
heavy out-of-hand, for if it does it is top-heavy; while
top-heavy rods are sometimes very strong casters they
are unpleasant and very tiring rods to use. One of
the tests of the good shotgun or rifle is the absolute
exactness of fit or jointure of every part. This must
also be required of the fly-rod. See that every part
fits every adjacent part with nicety, especially with rc
gard to the joints of the strips of cane. In cheap
rods you will find places where the strips of cane lie
open like gaps in the planking of a leaky skiff.
If you hold the rod straight out in front of you,
you will notice that it bends down slightly — if the
bend is more than slight, discard the rod, it is too
whippy — and the bend should be graceful and even.
Still holding the rod in this manner, rotate the rod
on its axis, and during the entire period of rotation
see that the bend or " dip " remains constant. If at
some time during the rotation the point of the tip
moves upward, it denotes a sufficient fault of construe*
tion or material to warrant setting the rod aside. If
the rod successfully passes the tests suggested, then fit
it with a suitable reel and line, reeving the line through
50 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
the guides as for fishing. Reel oflE a convenient length
of line and attach the end of it to some substantial
object or have someone hold it. Then, steadily, put a
good stiff strain on the rod and carefully examine the
bend. As said above the rod should bend evenly
throughout its entire length from handgrasp to tip-
end; the bend should not be entirely confined to the
middle-joint and tip as is often the case. An even,
graceful bend spells equal distribution of strength, and
equally distributed strength means long life to the rod.
Put this strain on the rod with the guides both above
and below the rod, and also with the sides of the rod
held upward. The pull of a hooked fish and the strain
upon the rod when casting are by no means from one
direction only, and the rod must be capable of sus-
taining with equal resilience and safety, strains com-
ing from any direction. After each of these tests for
equality of bend see that the rod returns readily and
at once to its normal straightness. If it does not, but
seems to have a slight " set," or to come back in a
lifeless manner, it lacks resiliency and backbone and
on no account should be accepted. Finally, if the cir-
cumstances are such that it is possible, do some actual
casting with the rod.
As a general axiom it may be said
Use and ^j^^t split-bamboo rods require consid-
Rod erably more care than those of solid
wood; and since, for fly-casting, your
rod will preferably be of split-bamboo, you must be
CHOICE AND USE OF FLY-ROD 51
prepared to take good care of it. By all means learn
how to wind a rod so that frayed or loosened guide or
ferrule windings may be replaced at once without wait-
ing for a rod maker or anyone else to do it for you.
Any experienced angler will gladly show you the trick,
or you can pick it up from one of the tackle books, such
as Mr. Wells' Fly-Rods And Fly-Tackle before re-
ferred to. Wipe the rod dry after fishing and before
putting it away in the rod case.
The handiest single rod case is one of canvas, par-
titioned, with a small, cylindrical, metal or wood tip-
case. For carrying two or more rods a leather rod
case may be used. The cost varies with the size. One
of ordinary size and of stiffened leather, costs about
$4; of sole leather $12. They are heavy, unwieldy
affairs, and, if possible, it is better not to use one.
However, for shipping rods by express, and on very
hard trips where several rods are carried (in this con-
nection see the " tourist " fly-rod) they are indispensa-
ble.
If you keep the rod in a wooden form never tie the
strings or buckle the straps too tightly, as this results
in warping the joints. For the same reason never
lean the rod either jointed or taken-down against any-
thing.
Do not allow the rod to He on the ground. Damp-
ness, and fragility of rod when in contact with large,
hobnailed wading boots are the reasons. Dampness
will very quickly ruin the very best of fly-rods.
52 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
Work toward the butt when assembling the rod.
First assemble the tip and middle-joint; the butt-joint
comes last. Take the rod down just reverse, starting
with the butt-joint. Do not, as you value the long
life of your rod, twist the ferrules either in assembling
or taking down the rod. When assembling the rod
in a boat or canoe reeve the line through the guides
before putting the joints together.
When going through brush with the rod rigged for
fishing carry the rod in front — do not drag it be-
hind you — and go slowly. If there is any considera-
ble amount of brush-going to traverse take the rod
down. You will save time and other things.
Learn to splice a rod at the stream-side — and then
see to it that you never have to use the knowledge.
In taking leave of the subject of the trout fly-rod the
writer wishes once more to say: Get a good rod.
You will find that the use of good
rp , , tackle makes all the difference in the
world. You will acquire a different an-
gling view-point, one not wholly concerned with the
weight or number of the fish you catch. And there's
something about a first-class rod that makes you want
to learn how to handle it in a first-class way — and
that is a pretty interesting game, and one not too easily
mastered. Of no class of goods is it more true that
the best is, in the end, the cheapest, than of fishing
tackle; and, absolutely apart from its actual use, there
is a very certain satisfaction in the mere ownership of
CHOICE AND USE OF FLY-ROD 53
rods and other tackle which you know are beyond
criticism. That trout and other game fishes may
be taken on cheap tackle is quite true. It is also
true that good tackle, for its own sake, is assuredly
worth while.
The use of the rod in casting can best be learned
at the stream-side as distinguished from the library.
Any old hand can very quickly show you ^-
, , t . , , . Fly-casting.
how much you know in regard to this — ►
that IS, if you are willing to learn. But be careful
about choosing your tutor. Not every man who wears
a halo of gaudy trout flies on his hat-band is a fly-fish-
erman; in fact, very few of them are. Pretty nearly
every man who ever caught a trout " knows all about
fly-fishing " but, strangely enough, prefers to use bait ;
or, quite possibly, in fact rather more possibly, uses
bait and, for exclusively conversational purposes, pre-
fers to use flies. Needless to say, this sort of fly-fish-
erman will not make a very profitable or efficient
coach. In a way it is a simple matter, casting a fly;
but it's one of the things which are well worth while
doing " right " — and that is not so simple.
In default of personal coaching, however, the follow-
ing suggestions concerning how to cast with the fly-
rod may be of advantage. Fly-casting is a matter of
two motions, the back cast and the for\^^ard cast.
It is also a matter of the wrist — not a straight-arm
shoulder-swing — and that brings us to the first es-
sential advice. The proper way to hold the rod is to
54 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
have the thumb extended along the upper surface of
the handgrasp and not bent around it. If you hold
the rod in this way it will help getting your wrist
into the cast. Another thing, mentioned later, also,
in connection with the single-action reel: Have the
reel on the under side of the rod (and keep it there)
with the handle to the right.
To make the back cast, using to start your practice
about fifteen feet of line, the rod is swung smartly
backward, overhead, to a position just a little beyond
the perpendicular. The line must be thrown well up
into the air so that it will not strike the ground or
water behind the caster. To make sure of this the
rod must never be allowed to go very far back. If,
as advised, you stop the rod when it is slightly beyond
the perpendicular the momentum of the back-swing
and bend of the rod will carry it to the right position.
A high back cast is essential to good fly-casting. Keep
your elbow low and not too far from the body —
not so close as to cramp the arm and make the mo-
tion awkward — and try to make the rod do the work.
That is what a fly-rod is for. The rod will do the
work if you get sufficient bend, or action, into it. It
will not do the work if you cast at arm's length. To
get rod action you must use your wrist.
Start the forward cast when the line first apprecia-
bly begins to pull on the rod from the rear, and bring
the rod forward and down to a position a little above
CHOICE AND USE OF FLY-ROD 53
parallel with the water. The back cast should be
started rather forcefully; the forward cast should start
easily and finish strongly. When fishing do not delay
the back cast too long — until the flies are at your
feet. At first no attempt to gain distance should be
made. Reasonable distance comes naturally with in-
creased skill in casting without special effort in that
direction. Accuracy, rather, is the practical fishing
essential ; and try to lay down a light fly.
As soon as possible learn to handle the line in the
left hand; the longer you delay this the harder it is
to learn. This method is employed by the majority
of experienced fly-fishermen and has numerous ad-
vantages. Briefly, the line should be held in the left
hand, grasping it between the reel and first guide, thus
controlling at all times the rendition and recovery of
the line. There should always be a little slack line
off the reel for the left hand to work on. When you
have progressed with your casting you will learn to
shoot out this slack line through the rod guides at the
finish of the forward cast, thus adding a number of
feet to the cast. Also it is possible to play a trout in
this two-handed manner with much more finesse than
from the reel. The left hand feels, even anticipates,
every movement of the fish, and the trout is never
too roughly handled.
The cast here described is the overhead. There
are other advantageous fishing casts such as the side
56 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
or underhanded cast, the backhanded cast, the spey
cast and others. These are mostly variations of the
overhanded cast, fundamentally the same, and descrip-
tions of them may be found elsewhere.
CHAPTER V
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS
THE choice of the reel and line for trout fly-
fishing is a matter of no difficulty whatever
— of so little difficulty, in fact, that not one
angler in twenty uses the proper kind of reel or the
right sort of line. All tackle for fly-fishing is highly
specialized ; and, while it is true that if you know what
you want, proper selection is easy, it is equally true that,
since a very large part of the immense variety of tackle
is wholly unsuited to fly-casting, it is very easy to make
mistakes. Fly-casting as it should be done can be done
effectively only with the proper tools; and one of these
tools is
The Single-action Click Reel.
Just why the single-action click reel is the only
satisfactory implement for the fly-caster can, as regards
its chief claim for precedence, be stated with brevity.
It IS because the single-action reel does not have an
outstanding " balance " handle upon which, continually
and with devilish insistence, the line is bound to catch.
The stream fly-fisherman who has to contend with the
57
58 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
innumerable natural dIfBculties of the river — thick
brush, sh'ppery rocks, overhanging trees that lie in
vi^ait for careless back casts, and numerous other natural
impediments — can ill afford to utilize a tool which
by Its very nature is calculated to increase his troubles;
and every form of multiplying reel, since the gearing
necessitates an outstanding balance handle, is a first-
class trouble-maker for the fly-caster. The very gen-
eral custom among expert anglers, when fly-fishing, of
manipulating the line with the hand not occupied with
the rod, grasping the line between the reel and the
hand-guide, and thus paying-out and retrieving the line
both in casting and playing a trout quite independently
of the reel, using the reel only when there is too much
slack, renders the reel but little more than a mere line-
holder. And even when the reel is used when landing
a fish the multiplying machinery is not necessary,
indeed, is dangerous, since the tendency is toward
handling the trout altogether too strenuously. The
single-action reel is fully equal to every trout-fishing
emergency.
In addition to its freedom from line-fouling the
single-action has also the advantage in weight over the
multipliers, as a result of which the light fly-rod
balances better. Another argument for the single-ac-
tion is its simplicity and consequently its lesser tendency
to get out of order and greater ability to withstand the
sometimes unavoidable hard knocks and abuse which
a reel receives in stream fishing. And still another
Single-Action Click Reels
For use in fly-casting for trout and bass
Quadruple-multiplying- Casting Reels
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 59
favorable thing is the price. A very fine single-action
reel can be procured for a third of what a multiplier
of equal grade would cost. So, for trout fishing, the
selection of the reel is not a question of what sort of
reel but, rather, what sort of single-action click reel
should be chosen.
In construction the single-action reel is simplicity
Itself, and the variation in different makes of reels
of this sort is slight and not worthy of How the
comment. Briefly, the reel consists of -p | .
the spool which revolves within the side Made
plates, the motive power being supplied
by the handle which is attached to one end of the
spool shaft; at the other end of the spool shaft
is a small cog-wheel, or spur-wheel, which connects
with a small wedge-shaped piece of metal, the " pawl,"
the latter being affixed to the side-plate and working
on a pivot within a circular steel wire spring. The
pawl and pawl-spring in connection with the spur-
wheel supply the entire click mechanism. The click
should be strong, and the " song of the reel " fine and
clear, with a metallic ring which denotes good ma-
terial — well-tempered steel. See that the spool is nar-
row so that, when reeling in, the line will build up
on the reel rapidly, thus making the retrieve faster.
The reel should be made with an
ample " protecting band " around the r h
edge of the side plate on the handle side
of the reel, within which band the reel handle revolves.
6o FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
It IS the protecting band which makes the single-action
reel practically free from line-fouling — the important
thing. If the protecting band has sufficient projection
It makes little difference whether the reel handle is
" balanced " or not ; that is, whether the handle is full-
sized, extending quite across the side plate and with
a weight or balance at the extremity, the most common
American construction, or simply a short crank with-
out extension or balance. Personally, I think the bal-
ance handle gives the reel a more finished appearance
and a slightly better action. Another form of single-
action reel construction, known as the English style,
does away with both protecting band and reel handle
proper. In this form of reel a disk revolving within
the side plate is attached directly to the reel shaft, and
the reel handle is simply a small knob, preferably
slightly tapered outward, fixed to the disk. In a good
many ways this is the best sort of reel for fly-fishing.
As regards materials, reels may be had of nickeled
brass, German silver, hard rubber, hard rubber and
nickel in combination, hard rubber and
German silver, and, also, of aluminum.
Choose either a reel of entire German silver or one of
hard rubber with protecting band, spool and handle
of German silver. Nickeled reels do not give con-
tinued satisfaction, since the plating wears off and the
reel takes on a generally tough appearance. Reels of
hard rubber only, with no metal bands about the side
plates, are very light and good reels, but they arc ccr-
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 6i
tainly not to be recommended because of their great
liability to breakage. It is simply a matter of dropping
the rod-butt on a rock — and getting a new reel.
Aluminum reels are not to be recommended for the
same reason ; the metal is apt to be too soft. A reel of
solid German silver is rather an expensive tool, but
reels of this sort are very fine ones. The metal is hard,
long-lasting and clean and these reels are very service-
able. The reel of hard rubber, with German silver
bands and handle, and spool of the same material or
aluminum, is, on the whole, the reel which can most
unreservedly be advised. The cost is not excessive;
the reel looks well and wears well ; it is strong enough
to stand hard usage ; it is light, and, in the various sizes,
can be procured to balance nicely fly-rods of any
length and weight.
If economy is an object it may be said that the
reel of hard rubber, with nickeled bands and handle,
IS the best. In a good many instances the mechanism
of these reels is of the same good quality as that fur-
nished in rubber and German silver. In some cases
the reels are, in fact, the same; the only difference be-
ing in the German silver and nickel; this, of course,
as regards the product of any one manufacturer and
the best rubber and nickel reel of that manufacturer.
In the makeup of these reels there is enough rubber
to partly take away the curse of the nickel, and it is a
good plan to have one of these reels along if only for
a "reserve." When outfitting for an extended fish-
62 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
ing trip be sure that a reserve reel is in the kit. H
your reel is broken or lost, either of which things can
easily happen m the woods, the extra one will come in
rather handy.
Do not make the mistake of getting a reel that is
too small. It is advisable to get as much retrieving
speed as possible out of the reel, and this
T?^ 1 ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^"^ ^^' ^^^^> having the
reel spool narrow, and, second, having
the reel of sufficient size so that you can wind on a core
of linen or other cheap line which builds up on the reel
to such an extent that, when the casting line (spliced
to the linen line) is reached, the barrel of the reel will
be large enough to take up considerable line at each
revolution. Either the lOO-yard size or the 8o-yard
size will be right — nothing smaller. The lOO-yard
reel holds about 40 yards of size E enameled line ; the
80-yard reel about 35 yards. You see that when the
expression " 80-yard reel " is applied to the single-
action it does not mean exactly that. Ordinarily you
will probably not use over 25 yards of level line, either
E or F. But if, sometime, you desired to use say
40 yards of line, and in the case of most anglers such
a contingency is not at all remote, if your reel hap-
pened to be one of the smaller sizes you would be put
to the expense of a new reel. With a 100-yard reel
you would merely remove some of the core line. On
the whole the 100-yard size is the best. This reel will
hold all the line you are ever likely to need in trout
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 63
fishing and, when using the customary 25 yards of
level E or F line, it allows a good-sized core of other
line to be wound on the spool for the purpose explained
above. But for very short, light fly-rods a smaller reel
must be used to obtain proper balance, and since, in
this case, a smaller line will be used, the 6c)-yard reel
will answer.
The position of the single-action click reel on the
trout fly-rod, as every old hand knows, is underneath
the rod with the handle to the right, if
you are right handed. If you aspire to Position
an honorable status in the most ancient piv-rod
and honorable fraternity of fly-casters,
and for numerous other weighty reasons, take due no-
tice. The proper way to use the reel in fly-casting is,
as suggested above, to use it as little as possible. The
" shooting " of the line through the rod guides at
the end of the forward cast, whereby tournament fly-
casters make such remarkable distance casts and the
stream fly-fisherman may drop his flies in a desirable
spot quite beyond reach of the one-handed caster, is
founded entirely on the caster's ability to use in this
way the hand not occupied by the rod. All of which
IS preparatory to the statement that only with the reel
underneath the rod is this method at all practicable.
As to how much you will have to
pay for a good single-action reel, it may ^^^ Good
be said that their prices vary from, say,
$3.50 to $10.00; you can pay more if you like and,
64 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
also, less ; good reels of hard rubber and nickel may be
had for $1.75 in the lOO-yard size. In the same size
a reel of hard rubber and German silver costs from
$3.50 to $6.00, depending upon the maker — and some-
what upon the seller. The regulation hard rubber reel
with bands and handle of German silver or nickel is
furnished in pretty nearly the same style by all the
tackle dealers, and individual reels of this sort need not
here be noted. Two of the many good reels which are
worthy of special notice are described as follows:
The first is made with German silver side plates and
spool, and bronze frame ; the reel with side plates 2 J4
inches in diameter, weighs 4j4 ounces and carries 40
yards of E enameled line; the handle is not balanced
— a fault or a merit, suit yourself — and the reel has
an ample protecting band. This reel costs $8.50 and is
worth it. For obvious reasons it would not do to
name it more specifically. The other is a solid metal
reel of German silver with aluminum spool. It is of
the protecting band style and has a balance handle. It
is a strong, durable reel and a very handsome one. Its
capacity is about the same as that of the first; but it
costs more — $10.00. For a very light reel, cheap in
price but still a good enough reel, the Featherlight
should be noted. Although made very light it is fairly
strong. This reel is of the revolving disk order, the
English style, and they differ from the ordinary reel
enough to preclude description here. They cost about
$1.50.
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 65
Then there are the English style reels with revolv-
ing-disk handle. Almost every tackle dealer furnishes
reels of this sort in various grades. The best one
known to the writer, all things considered, is an im-
ported reel known as the Malloch. In the 2j^-inch
size It costs $5.50.
In the matter of how to take care of the reel it
seems better to discuss this in connection with the mul-
tiplying casting reels. The mechanism
of the single-action reel is so simple, How to
and the work it is called upon to do ^^ u^^
usually so very slight, that the reel re- Reel
quires little care to keep it in good
order — and that is the reason why there is no excuse
for not keeping it in good shape. A leather reel case
should be procured and, also, used.
The Line.
The perfect line for fly-fishing must, in addition to
the requirements of strength and imperviousness to
water, be smooth and hard so that it may run freely
through the guides, and, while quite flexible, must be
sufficiently stiff so that it will not kink or wind about
the rod. The only line which fully answers these
requirements is the "waterproof, enameled silk line."
The waterproof, enameled silk line is perfectly adapted
to the purpose of fly-casting, and the wise angler will
save himself much trouble and loss of temper and trout,
to say nothing of expense, by attempting to use no
66 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
other. A line sometimes recommended as a substi-
tute for the enameled line is known as the " oiled silk "
.line. This sort of line bears no comparison to the
enameled line. It does not work well on the rod, and
in casting and lasting qualities is far inferior to the
enameled line.
The best enameled lines of the present time are solid
braided — that is, not braided over a core — from the
l>^ery finest silk, and are waterproofed in a vacuum,
under the exhausted receiver of an air-pump, thus
insuring thorough permeation ^of the waterproofing
medium. This process, sometimes called the Halford
vacuum process, from the fact that it is the result of
experiments by Mr. F. M. Halford, before mentioned
as the author of Dry-Fly Fishing, is a very complicated
one, comprising repeated dressings of the line with oil
in the vacuum followed after each dressing by " cur-
ing " the line at a temperature of 150 degrees Fahren-
heit. The line is finally highly hand polished. The
result is not a merely superficial enamel which is lia-
ble to knuckle and crack, thus permitting water to
rot the line, but the line is in fact, and not in theory
or for purposes of sale, waterproof. The whole busi-
ness of waterproofing lines is surrounded by the tackle
makers with a most mysterious and impenetrable se-
cretiveness ; consequently it is rather hard for the lay-
man to speak with authority on the subject. The
method is substantially as described.
Enameled fly-lines are made in two styles known as
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 67
level and taper. The level line is the same size
throughout its length. The taper line is tapered to-
ward the end for a certain distance, the length of the
taper varying with the make. Tapered lines are
either single or double tapered. The single taper line
grows finer toward one end only. The double tapered
line is fined down at both ends. The taper line will be
more particularly discussed in a later paragraph.
For average trout fly-fishing an enameled line size E
or F, level, is most used. It should be borne in mind
that a fly-line should be selected rather with its casting
qualities in view than with reference to its capacity
for holding fish. A very fine line, in expert hands,
will hold a very large trout; but a line that is too
fine does not cast well. The line must have a certain
weight in order to carry well through the air. The
careless or uninformed angler frequently makes the
mistake of using a light line on a heavy rod, or, possibly,
a heavy line on a light rod ; and in either case the re-
sult is absolute inability to cast with any sort of ef-
ficiency. Even by expert casters good casting cannot
be done with a rod and line mutually unfit; and that
the beginner can do better is doubtful. With care-
fully and well-selected tackle the beginner is sure to
have his troubles; but with hastily and poorly selected
tackle the agony is soon over — the tentative fly-fish-
erman simply quits the game.
For a ten-foot rod having plenty of backbone select
size E.
68 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
Size F is best for rods under ten feet and rather
light.
It may seem to you that these lines are rather coarse
for small stream fishing where the water is very clear,
but the six-foot gut leader supplies the necessary term-
inal fineness.
A good quality size E enameled line tests 28 pounds ;
size F 22 pounds. Manufacturers have a tendency to
make fly-lines in fancy colors. Select a line of subdued
color, one that will be inconspicuous in the water.
Some dealers list their lines by number instead of by
letter. The following shows the corresponding sizes
beginning with the smallest: No. 6=H, No. 5=G,
No. 4=F, No. 3=E, No. 2=T>, No. i==C.
These lines come usually in coils of 25 yards. For
ordinary occasions one coil is all that the angler need
purchase; but if the fishing is to be rather heavy, as
in some of the Maine streams and lakes, or for sea
trout or landlocked salmon, forty yards will be neces-
sary. A line twenty-five yards in length allows the
angler, as above noted, to use a core of cheaper line
when a 100- or 8oyard reel is used.
The taper line has its advantages and also its dis-
advantages. Chief among its claims to precedence
over the level line is the one that with
l^vei vs. j|. longer casts are possible. It has fre-
quently, in theory, been conclusively
proved that this is not so — but it is. Taper
lines are used as a matter of course by all long-
o
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 69
distance tournament fly-casters at the present time.
But long distance casting is seldom of use to the
stream fly-fisherman. Casts of any necessary fishing
distance can be made with the level line. Herein is
the advantage of the taper line: it is in the combina-
tion of terminal fineness together vi^ith the necessary
casting weight which is supplied by the " swell " of
the line. This combination of fineness with weight is
of great advantage for lake fly-fishing, for fishing large,
quiet pools in streams, and wide stretches of " still
waters." In such places great delicacy and consid-
erable distance are very requisite and the taper line
makes this delicacy and distance possible; with it far
and fine casts are in the power of the expert caster.
In effect you cast a G line to the distance ordinarily
only attained by a line of size E. For instance, take a
tapered line E tapered to size G. That part of the
line which is of size E supplies weight and consequently
good carrying power and distance ; and that part of the
line which is approximately size G supplies lightness
and delicacy at the end of the cast. Obviously the
taper line has its advantages.
But the medal has its reverse. Good taper lines are
pretty costly. Also much use of the line generally re-
sults in a gradual shortening of the taper due to acci-
dental breakage or unavoidable and natural deteriora-
tion, and, eventually, the angler can supply from his
tackle box a concrete answer to the question, When
is a taper line not a taper line? Obviously the grad-
70 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
uated line has its disadvantages. These lines are usu-
ally furnished in double-taper. The taper is generally
about 1 8 feet in length. The lines come in lengths of
30 and 40 yards. Sizes E and F, to fit the rod, are
right.
Whether the line shall be level or taper, is, in a way,
a matter of taste; that the line be a fine one, in the
sense of quality, is a necessity. There
^hi'^^ are a great many cheap and worthless
lines on the market although they are,
presumably, " enameled, waterproof, braided silk
lines." When purchasing a fly-line see that its surface
is smooth, hard and free from stickiness. Bend over
two inches of the end of the line and twist the strands
together hard. If the enamel cracks or gives at any
point a white spot will tell you that some other line
IS preferable. Extremely high polish is not imperative ;
in fact, a certain firm of tackle dealers advertises the
fact that Its best line is not highly polished since, they
say, a too smooth line slides so freely through the
water as to hamper good casting — which, it would
seem, is getting things down to a rather fine point.
The line should also be tested from time to time,
as to its strength, during the fishing season. Experi-
ments made by Mr. Wells and others show that a trout
pulls, approximately, its own weight. The locality
where you fish and the size of the trout you are liable
to take will determine measurably how far an old line
may be trusted. As a matter of fact, before a line has
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 71
become so old as to be the object of suspicion the
enamel will have worn down and the line become so
limp and flexible as not to work well on the rod —
when you will discard it on general principles. This
IS in the case of a line originally of good quality and
subsequently well cared for. As above stated, a line,
according to size, will test from 22 to 28 pounds when
new. It should not be trusted when it fails to pull
half its original test. Sudden strains and hard pulls
on the line frequently happen from various causes
when fishing, and a break in the line generally means,
if nothing else, the loss of leader and flies.
Enameled fly-lines need not be the object of so much
solicitation to the fly-caster as are the fine un-water-
proofed casting lines to the bait-caster.
But the enameled line should not be ~^.^ ^^
IT 1 ^ Line.
neglected or abused. It may be suffi-
ciently dried by running it through a cloth held in the
hand, and this will also tend to keep it straight and
free from tight coils caused by being wound upon the
reel, as a result of which the line will work better in
casting. If occasionally dressed with deer fat the line
will work better and last longer. For smoothing and
polishing enameled lines tournament casters use pow-
dered graphite. During the winter the line should
not be kept tightly coiled on the reel.
Good quality level enameled lines cost about $i.7S
for 25 yards size E. The cost varies slightly with
the different dealers and for the various sizes. An
72 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
average price for a 30-yard double-tapered line, size E,
is $2.50. Very fine quality double-
tapered lines for tournament work cost
rather more; say, $4.00 for 40 yards. All the best
dealers carry lines of excellent quality in the best
grades, all about equally good. A very excellent fly-
line is the English soft-enamel line. By some they are
considered superior to the American lines. So far as
the writer knows, only one American firm, located in
New York, regularly supplies these lines. They are
furnished only in double-taper.
If your fishing trip will take you far from the
tackle shops have a reserve line on the reserve reel.
It is a good deal better to be prepared
Reserve f^j. tackle losses than to have to borrow
from a friend — especially when, as
most often happens, the friend is not in a position to
lend.
Leaders.
It IS impossible to place too much emphasis upon
the quality and suitability of the leader or, as it is
sometimes called, the casting-line. Since the leader
IS a link in the chain between the angler and a hooked
fish, and since a chain is only as strong as its weakest
link. It follows that the strength of the leader must
be unquestionable. And in the matter of selection the
leader must be suited to the water and the fish where
the fishing is to be done. So the angler should be
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 73
able to judge accurately the quality of leaders, and
also know about the different sizes in which they are
made for various conditions. Briefly, the material from
which leaders, and the snells of flies and hooks, are
made, is the silk of the Spanish or Italian silkworm,
the silk or " gut " being drawn from the worm to the
desired length (from 10 to 15 inches, the short lengths
being afterward knotted together to form the com-
plete leader) and subsequently sorted and made into
bunches or " hanks " according to caliber and quality.
As a matter of fact the silk is drawn out to a greater
length than the final length of the strand, for there
is considerable waste at each end of the strand on
account of the manner in which the gut is cured and
made into hanks.
Good quality gut is round, hard and smooth. Cheap
gut is fat in places and frays easily. When testing a
leader look over its length very carefully
for flat places. Leaders which are very How to
faulty in this respect can sometimes be ^ h'
discarded at sight, but often the flatness
can only be detected when the gut is rolled between
the fingers. Flatness spells a degree of weakness that
is by no means to be trusted. For hardness test the
leader between the teeth. Certain writers about fish-
ing tackle, in referring to silkworm gut, have used the
terms " clear " and " transparent," and recommended
that the angler use only leaders having this charac-
teristic. As a matter of fact, almost all gut on the
74 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
market undergoes a bleaching process which turns it
white and practically opaque.
Before using the leader it should be tested for
strength, and in this connection it should be said that
care must be taken not to over-test it
Teslmg ^g ^j^jg results in weakening it. For
the Leader. ^ , . , , , ^ ,
average hshmg a leader that tests three
and a half to four pounds is amply strong. Attach one
end of the leader to a hook in the wall and use your
balances. Pull slowly and steadily until the leader
snaps — it happens pretty often — or shows the neces-
sary strength.
Some dealers list silkworm gut, beginning with the
thinnest ordinarily sold, as follows : Regular, Padrona
Second, Padrona First, Marana, and
Sizes Marana Double Thick. Others have
discarded this nomenclature and list in
this way: Light Trout, Heavy Trout, Heavy Bass,
Extra Heavy Bass, Salmon, and Heavy Salmon. For
average fishing, the locality and conditions making
some difference, the first two sizes in each list are the
most used. Leaders may be had three, six and nine
feet in length. A nine-foot leader is too long to use on
a trout fly-rod since there is danger of reeling the knot
between line and leader through the tip-guide, when
the line is at once locked fast. A six-foot leader is
about right and this may be made by looping together
two leaders of three feet, preferably of different caliber,
so as to form a tapered leader.
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 75
Gut smaller in caliber than Regular can be obtained
from most dealers and is known as Refina and Fina,
Refina being the thinnest. " Drawn '' gut is the thin-
nest obtainable and is the result of stripping the natural
gut through diamonds or steel plates thus reducing
the caliber and paring away all inequalities. Drawn
gut is mostly used by English dry-fly fishers and, at
times, is useful to the American angler when fishing
extremely clear streams where the trout are highly
educated. Much annoyance may be avoided by always
having the leader and fly-snells of about the same size
gut; otherwise the cast will continually become tan-
gled; for if, for instance, you are using a fairly thick
leader and dropper-flies tied on fine gut, the fine snells
will not stand away from the leader but wrap them-
selves around it persistently.
As a rule leaders may be had in three colors : natural
(white), mist color and tea color. As a bone of con-
tention among anglers the question of
the proper color for leaders is un-
equalled. When all is said the size of the leader, fine
leaders for clear streams and shy trout, is far more
important. Leaders of natural color are as good as
any. In this sort of thing it is necessary to be con-
sistent, and if you use a mist color leader your flies
should be tied on mist color snells. Almost without
exception flies are tied on natural gut. I know one
tackle maker, however, who is certainly consistent.
Wide experience has taught him, at least, that trout
76 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
can only be taken upon flies with tea color snells and
Sneck hooks, used on tea color leaders. Love or money
cannot obtain from him a natural gut leader, a fly tied
on a natural gut snell, or a Sproat hook. And there
you are.
Making rods and tying flies are attempted by only
a few anglers, comparatively speaking, and success in
these things only crowns the efforts of
How to those who have considerable mechanical
Tie a
Leader ^^^^^' "^^^ tyirig a leader is another
thing. It is so simple and, moreover,
saves so much expense and has so many advantages
in other ways, that every angler not only can, but by
all means should, tie his own leaders. A very great
advantage of the homemade leader is that you can tie
in the dropper loops just where you want them. And
you should know how to tie a leader, anyway, be-
cause then you can make over a " tailor made " leader
to suit yourself; or, if you accidentally break a leader
when fishing, or break one in testing it, you can make
the necessary repairs.
Briefly — and the following is incorporated here
because I know of no place where the story is told
briefly — the first thing to do is to get a hank of gut
from the dealer. They come generally lOO strands to
the hank, and, as above stated, from lo to 15 inches in
length. The 12-inch is a good length. Select six or
seven strands according to the length of leader de-
sired,— a five-foot leader will do for two flies, six feet
REELS, LINES AND LEADERS 77
for three, — cut away the waste at each end of the
strands and soak them for an hour or so in tepid
water. The method of connecting the single strands
is as follows: When the strands have been rendered
sufficiently pliable by soaking, tie a half-hitch, loosely,
at the end of a strand, put the end of another strand
through the loop in first, and then, again loosely, tie
a half-hitch around the first strand. Then, separately,
draw each knot tight and, finally, pull the two knots
together good and hard. This is known as the single
water knot. To make the loops at each end of the
leader, bend over for about two inches the end of the
gut so that it lies along the rest of the strand and tie
a half-hitch, an ordinary knot.
The end loops as well as the dropper loops should
be made as you go along and before the gut dries.
The dropper loops are best made at the end of the
strand, the junction of two strands. For the dropper
loop tie loosely, without pulling tight, at the end 6f
a strand, an ordinary half-hitch as for an end loop;
put the end of the next strand through the small knot-
loop (the small knot at base of half-hitch loop) in
the first, and then proceed as when tying two strands
together. It sounds very much harder than it really
is. The leader should be tested, and suspended with a
small weight to straighten it.
Leaders must always be well soaked before using
them for fishing. The kit must contain a leader box,
preferably of nickel, as the aluminum ones are too
78 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
fragile. The leader box will have two felt pads and
when these are wet and the leaders put
Use and between them the gut will become plia-
Care of
Leaders ^^^ ^^^ without tight coils in a short
time. It is safe to attach the flies to
the leader when the fly-snells and leader are dry,
if you do not draw the loops tight. Have plenty
of leaders or, better, a hank of gut, when starting on
a long trip. At the very least three leaders should
be carried on a one-day trip. Six-foot leaders of good
quality cost about $3.00 a dozen in trout sizes. Hanks
of gut, good quality, for trout sizes, are 75c to $1.50.
(CHAPTER VI
i FLIES THAT TROUT LIKE
THE true theory of the artificial fly is that the
fly should imitate as closely as possible the
natural insect life of that particular stream
the angler may be whipping at the particular time he is
fishing that stream. It follows that the fly-fisher
should observe as carefully as may be such natural flies
as are to be found about and over the water and, in
the choice of his cast, see that the artificials bear the
closest attainable resemblance to the natural insect life
observed. Some anglers, not many, who are able to
tie their own flies skilfully, make a practice of first
noting carefully the insects upon the stream and then,
at the stream-side, dress the imitation before beginning
to fish. Naturally, at times, those who follow this
plan get a good many trout, far more than the angler
who simply depends upon his stock of tailor-made flies.
But the American angler who follows the above plan
is a very rare bird, however numerous they may be in
Merry England.
As a matter of fact it is only in very much over-
fished streams that exact imitation of nature assumes
79
8o FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
great importance. In wild waters any of the well-
known stock-fly patterns are sure to be successful
when the trout are rising; and, when the trout are
not rising, quite often, even generally, you can imitate
nature until you are black in the face and still have to
eat bacon. Exact imitation of nature in trout fly-
fishing is best exemplified by the methods and flies of
the British dry-fly fisherman. This is a subject rather
too advanced to enter upon herein further than a few
notes under the later subject of dry flies which will be
taken up farther on in this chapter, after some of the
general principles have been laid down.
Before discussing the various forms of flies, hackles,
palmers, reversed wing, matched wing, floating dry
flies, etc., the hooks upon which they are
bimp e dressed, how they are tied, and other
Rules for ' , . , ,
Flies. matters connected with the trout fly,
there are a few rules, quite universally
applicable and usually true, which should be stated.
If you know these general trouting truths it will help
much in the selection of flies. First, then, do not for-
get when filling the fly book, that on bright, clear days
very small flies of subdued colors are most successful ;
and, secondly, that on dark days larger flies of brighter
coloration are the best. Flies tied upon No. 8 hooks
may with safety be called normal. As a stock size
trout fly, a good " meat " fly on almost all waters, the
No. 8 is practically universal. Have the greater part
of your flies of this size with a few others of the best
FLIES THAT TROUT LIKE 8i
patterns in larger and smaller sizes for unusual condi-
tions. Do not fill the book with gaudy flies, reds,
blues, and the like — they look pretty but they are not
practical. Flies of subdued colors, grays, browns, etc.,
are very much the best; in fact, it may be truly said
that, save in the wildest of wild waters, where the trout
are totally uneducated, gaudy flies are of no use what-
ever.
As a change from the flies of more modest coloration
the fly-book should contain a number of flies of brighter
tints, but it is not necessary that these be of startling
colors. There are several good flies which, while they
are very attractive and noticeable on the water, are
dressed in very good taste — not " loud." A scarlet
ibis, for instance, a fly with bright red wings and
hackle, with body gilt-wound and equally anarchistic,
is guaranteed to scare a trout of such a stream as the
Beaverkill, in New York, or of the trout streams of the
Berkshires, into fits. Diversity in the contents of the
fly-book is also desirable to meet the requirements of
various water conditions. When the stream is low
and clear the smallest flies are necessary for success;
and when the stream is slightly flooded and discolored
rather large flies must be used.
When buying flies select only the best grades. They
cost from $i.oo to $1.50 a dozen for
^^^r^°°^ the best grade flies of the best fly-tiers;
and the flies of this sort will outwear
the cheaper ones a dozen times. By all means steer
82 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
clear of the cheap trout fly. They are commercially
tied by the million by people who do not in the least
know what they are to be used for. In consequence
they disintegrate with facility and, as long as they hold
together, are mere useless bunches of feathers — not
at all resembling either in color or form the flies tied
by men who have " been there." A fly of good grade
will sometimes last for weeks of pretty steady fishing,
and have a good many trout to its credit, without be-
ing put out of commission. The cheap fly is a snare
and a delusion to the angler only.
In the final analysis the question of what style of
hook is the most efficient is of great importance. In
fact, one could almost say that the choice
of the hook on which the fly is dressed
is the great question of tackle selection. For no mat-
ter how wisely and well the angler discriminates in
regard to rod, reel and line, after all it is the hook
which by its efficiency or the lack thereof produces re-
sults or the contrary. But, again in the final analysis,
we find experienced anglers using with success a good
many different sorts of hooks. It would seem then
that, with a few exceptions, the most popular hooks
are all about equally good, and that the angler who
fails to hook his fish should not " blame the gun."
Briefly, and theoretically, the most efficient hook is one
having a " direct draught " so that the point is im-
mediately sent home in the direction of the force ap-
plied. However, we will not here discuss angles of
FLIES THAT TROUT LIKE 83
draught. If the flies you buy are tied upon either
Sproat, O'Shaugnessy, or Sneck hooks, you should have
no trouble with them. I have mentioned the Sneck
hook, not because I like or use it myself, but because
in the opinion of many experienced fly-fishermen it Is
a good hook. Another good hook is the Pennell.
Personally I always use the Sproat or O'Shaugnessy
w^hen I can find the sort of fly I want tied upon either
of them. But a good many dealers use only the Sneck
hooks for the smaller size flies, smaller than No. 8,
and for the " midges." There is no need to advise
only hooks of good grade. If you buy decent flies the
hooks are pretty sure to be all right.
In regard to the ways in which flies are made, their
mechanical construction and form, there are several
well-known kinds. These are : Hackles,
palmers, reversed-wing flies, matched- ^ i,,.
• n. un . ,, n. in. of FllCS.
Wing flies, fluttering flies, and float-
ing dry flies. The hackles and palmers are of quite
similar construction and equally efficient. No wings
are used in making these flies and the fly consists en-
tirely of the " hackle " and body save rarely when a
tail is tied in. The brown hackle is frequently made
with a tail of red wool. The distinction between the
hackle and the palmer is, that in the case of the hackle
fly the hackle is tied at the head of the fly only, while
in the palmers it is tied the entire length of the body.
The angler when buying flies by mail should remem-
ber that the hackles and palmers are made with dif-
84 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
ferently colored bodies to the same color hackle. The
brown palmer, for instance, is sometimes tied with a
red body (in which case it is properly called the " sol-
dier palmer ") and also is dressed with a body of pea-
cock harl, a green body. Both the brown and gray
hackles and palmers are very good all-season flies.
The various parts of the winged fly are the head,
hackle, body and tail, the wings and the tag. Not
every fly has all of these parts. The
the Flv ^"^^ ^^^^ ^^^"^ ^°^^ ^^ ^^^^ explanation
are the tag and the tail. The tag is
simply a few windings of gilt or some other material
appearing at the lower end of the body, the material
chosen being such as will contrast with the body ma-
terial. The very best example of the tag is seen in
the fly known as the Reuben Wood which has a white
body with a more than usually — when properly tied
— broad and prominent red tag. The tail is tied at
the lower end of the body, extending toward the bend
of the hook, and consists usually of a few feather
strands. An example of this may be seen in the Grizzly
King, this fly having a red tail. In the winged fly the
hackle is intended to represent the legs of the natural
insect. The hackle flies are representations of larval
forms such as the caterpillar.
In making the reversed-wing fly the
How Flies fl jgj. gj.g^ j^j^j j^ .^ f^ ^
are Tied. , , . . , , .
the beginning of the bend in the hook
with the point of the feather in the direction of the
Reversed Wing Flies
Md^tched Wing Plies
10 12 14
(Body Covemd)
(Body B«!»re")
^ ^ 1^
OakUxeWing .,^ / n ,} Erect Wing
Fly Flutt«fing-Tly fly
Variety of Form in Trout Flies
Two -thirds natural size
FLIES THAT TROUT LIKE 85
eye or snell of the hook. When the wing has been
bound to the hook shank up to the end of the shank it is
bent over, reversed, so as to point downward along the
shank, and then bound with several windings which
not only make the fastening very firm but form the
head of the fly. The majority of good quality Amer-
ican flies are made in this way. Considerable insight
into the fly-tier's methods can be had by carefully dis-
secting a fly. Matched-wing flies have two wings and
are usually tied upon the smaller sized hooks, 10 to
14. Fluttering flies I have never used and for that
reason do not care to discuss. They are made with the
head at the bend of the hook and the wings pointing
up the shank toward the eye of the hook so that,
when drawn through the water, they will, presumably,
owing to the resistance, better imitate the struggles of
a shipwrecked insect.
Since we are here writing principally for the begin-
ner it does not seem advisable to discuss at any length
the subject of dry flies ; for dry-fly fishing
is eminently a method which only the ^
advanced student in the school of fly-casting should at-
tempt. Also dry-fly fishing is properly at home only
in England, where it is extensively practiced on clear,
slow-moving streams, for highly educated brown trout,
the fish we call also the German trout. Rather re-
cently it has been taken up to some extent by a few
American anglers on streams more or less suited to
this style of fishing; but, by and large, dry-fly fishing
86 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
IS not adapted to American conditions. However, the
angler, merely as a matter of angling knowledge,
should make himself acquainted with the methods fol-
lowed by the dry-fly fishermen, and should know some-
thing about the subject of dry flies.
Very little has been written in this country about
the " how " of dry-fly fishing, and for this reason,
and for the further one that all the large tackle deal-
ers now carry a stock of dry flies and the salesman will
doubtless try to sell you some, it may be well to de-
scribe as briefly as possible, and with no pretense of
treating the subject expertly, what the dry fly is and
how it should be fished. The dry fly is a floating fly
and is to be fished upon the surface of the water,
wherein it differs from the ordinary flies, which are
without exception " wet " flies, and to be fished more
or less submerged.
The dry-fly purist casts only to a rising trout; he
does not fish all the water, according to the custom of
the wet-fly fisher, but waits until he sees the circle
of ripples made by a rising and feeding fish, and then
casts to that particular — very particular, indeed —
trout. He works up-stream, casting slightly above the
rise, and floating the fly down over the fish. Between
casts two or three " false " casts are made without al-
lowing the fly — only one fly is used — to strike the
water, in order to dry the fly. Paraffine oil is used
on the fly to make it float better and more impervious
to the action of the water, in dry-fly parlance, to pre-
FLIES THAT TROUT LIKE 87
vent the fly from drowning. The flies used are very
small and in most cases exact imitations of the preva-
lent insect life of the stream. When expertly prac-
ticed the method is a very deadly one. Some dry-fly
fishers do not insist on waiting for a rising fish, but
fish the best of the water in the manner of the wet-fly
caster, a method more appealing to the American an-
gler. Without going into the subject further it may
be said that there are occasions when, if you have a
few dry flies in the fly-book, you may be mighty glad
of it. A list of approved patterns, selected with
American streams in view, is given below. Dry flies
are usually tied upon eyed-hooks without snells.
Most of the tackle dealers now supply the most
popular trout flies dressed on eyed-hooks, that is,
without snells. This style of fly is
constantly increasing in use among ex- Flies on
pert anglers for many good reasons. As xj u"
a general thing when using flies whipped
to snells the first part to wear out is the gut at the
head of the fly, when the fly itself, no matter how
well preserved, is no longer of any use. Flies on eyed-
hooks may be carried in greater quantity and lesser
space than the ordinary sort. For the flies on snells,
if they are carried in any quantity — and they usually
must be — - a bulky fly-book is necessary. But a large
number of eyed-flies may be carried on clips in a small
metal box. The custom of tying flies on eyed-hooks
is not a new thing but recently their use has grown
88 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
more universal. English dry flies, as above noted, are
dressed in this way. Personally I do not use the eyed-
flies for trout because I am too used to the other kind
and do not care to change; and, doubtless, many an-
glers feel the same way about it. It seems to me, too,
that the proper field for the eyed-hook fly is where
only one fly is used. Where more than one fly is
used, which is almost always the case except in waters
so well stocked that mere trout catching ceases to be an
object, it is necessary for the leader to have two or
three dropper snells tied in or the flies must be pre-
viously snelled before attaching them. (Why do not
the tackle dealers, since the wearing qualities of the
eyed-hook fly and its other good points are beyond
need of proof, furnish regularly their trout flies with
snells tied-in instead of whipped-on? Is it barely
possible that the reason is because, then, they would
not sell so many flies?) The angler who knows how
to tie leaders and snells should have no trouble in
handling the eyed-flies. Also, it is possible to buy at
the tackle shops looped snells for use with eyed flies.
To use eyed flies it is necessary to know how to
attach them to the leader end or snell.
How to The method most in use for turned
Attach down eyed hooks is known as the " jam
Eyed-fly . . .
to Leader ^^ot." It is as simple as efficient. To
attach a fly by this method, pass the end
of the leader or snell through the eye of the fly to-
FLIES THAT TROUT LIKE 89
ward the bend in the hook, bend back this end along
the main strand of the snell and tie a half-hitch around
the main strand without drawing tight; slip the half-
hitch loop along and down the snell and just over the
eye of the hook, and then pull tight. Finally cut off
the gut end as close as may be consistent with safety.
It is said that there are some two hundred known
trout flies. Perhaps there are. The practical angler
does not at the utmost use more than
two dozen kinds, but is careful to have pi,,
his favorite flies in good numbers as re-
gards size. Do not practice economy in buying flies;
It will surprise you how fast they will disappear —
and some time you will find yourself on the stream
without the fly which you are morally certain would
make a killing. Have only a few different flies, of
the best patterns, and have these in good quantity
and in at least three sizes — rather large, medium and
small. As above stated, the No. 8 is the most gen-
erally useful size. No. 10 is usually small enough;
and No. 6 usually large enough. It is a good plan to
have a few " midges," flies as small as 14 and 16.
The opinions of anglers as to the most effective flies
are diverse and many times conflicting. There are,
however, a number of flies which have received almost
unanimous approval, and most of these are noted be-
low. The list of flies given here is founded upon
the belief that flies of subdued coloration are by far
po FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
the best, and also upon the fact that the writer has
used all of them, at different times. In different waters,
with rather better than indifferent success:
Be aver kill
Coachman
Cowdung
Montreal
Shoemaker
Black Gnat
Brown Hackle
Gray Hackle
Brown Palmer
Gray Palmer
March Brown
Stone Fly
Queen of the Water
Hare's Ear
Gray Drake
Governor
Cahill
Willow.
Flies of brighter coloration, some of which should
be in the fly-book, are:
Grizzly King Royal Coachman
Reuben Wood White Miller
Professor Silver Doctor.
For Maine and Canada, add: Parmachene Belle;
Scarlet Ibis.
The following dry flies are well-known and favorite
patterns :
March Brown Black Gnat
BeaverklU White Miller
Queen of the Waters Cahill.
Also the May flies which arc tied on larger-sized
hooks.
FLIES THAT TROUT LIKE 91
Flies Italicized above are the very best in almost
all waters, and you will notice that there are just one
dozen of them. To even further reduce the number,
I will say that, personally, I would have no objections
whatever to being turned loose on a trout stream with
only the following six flies: Coachman, Cowdung,
Cahill, Beaverkill, Grizzly King, Queen of the Waters.
In the writer's opinion, one in which he is by no
means alone, the Coachman is the very best all-round
trout fly — a fly good under all conditions of wind,
weather and water, at any time of day, at any time
during the season, and on any stream. It is not meant
to be understood that on occasions other flies will not
be more successful; merely that the Coachman is a
very consistently resultful fly, a good, steady performer.
Used as end-fly, it helps you to keep track of your cast
in broken water, the white wing being easily seen;
and this is of no little importance.
When buying flies by mail, it is a good plan to have
sample flies of the various sizes sent you by the dealer
you intend to buy from. The reason
for this is that no two dealers sell ex- ^^^^^
actly the same size fly on the same hook
number. Sometimes this is due to the difference in
the hooks used, and sometimes to the manner in which
the fly is dressed. You can never tell. A No. 8 fly
sold by Jones will be the size of a No. 10 sold by
Smith, and occasionally the variation will be even
more. Send for samples. If you possibly can, get
92 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
flies tied lightly — not bunchy — with light, small
bodies and not too much winging.
The thing to remember when selecting a fly-book
for stream use is that sooner or later, probably sooner,
it is sure to get thoroughly wet, not
J"^^ ^^^^ once, but several times. It follows
that only a well-made book, something
a little better than one made of imitation leather and
glue, will stand the racket. Its capacity should be
at least four dozen flies. A very good book, strong
and well-made, is one furnished with celluloid leaves,
transparent pockets, and with end-clips and spiral
spring center-bar to hold the flies. Such a book will
cost about $3.50.
For carrying eyed-flies metal boxes are best used.
Some of the boxes are made with metal clips to hold
the flies, and others are lined with cork. A good lit-
tle box (just for an experiment to see how you like
eyed-flies) holding fifty flies on clips, costs 75 cents.
Better ones range up to $2.50 or $3.00.
Small cedar boxes may be had for keeping flies moth-
proof during the close season. Do not forget that
artificial flies at one-fifty the dozen form a staple ar-
ticle of diet for moths. At the end of the season take
out all the flies from the fly-book and put them either
in a cedar box such as mentioned or in an air-tight
glass jar — and even then it is better to look them
Qver once in a while,
H
O
o
o -^
fl hJD
o o
pq
CHAPTER VII
CLOTHES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES
IN addition to the basic fly-fishing necessities such
as the rod, reel and line, there are several articles
of tackle, some of which properly form a part of
every fishing kit, and others v^hich are more or less
optional. The reader should not conclude that every-
thing mentioned in this chapter is a vital necessity
without which it is impossible to catch trout. On the
contrary it is by far the best plan to keep the outfit
down to essentials. Just what these essentials are is
a personal matter; and whether you should indulge to
any great extent in these tackle accessories is, in a
measure, a matter of the pocketbook. The same re-
marks will apply to selecting outing clothes for use on
the river, and other articles of general equipment. At
any rate you may be assured that the " genial sales-
man " into whose clutches you will fall when outfitting
for the fishing trip is a person utterly without con-
science who will try to sell you a pack-basket of truck
that you have absolutely no use for. Of course you
will buy some of it just to be decent; but do not buy
It all. Leave some of the things to experiment with
93
94 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
next time. Each trip will teach you a little more
about the things that you do and do not need.
For stream fishing a creel is necessary; also, when
fishing from a canoe, or a boat not provided with a
fish-well, it is a good plan to use one to
irout i^ggp ^j^g £g|^ -j^ gQQ^ shape. A nine-
pound basket is amply large for the
average run of trout fishing. Wicker creels are the
best and these may be had in several styles. A leather-
bound creel is one of the newest productions and one
calculated to last a long time. A basket stained green
or brown looks well — not that that matters much —
and will last longer than a plain one. Be sure, at any
rate, to get a creel with leather cover-hinges and " pat-
ent fastener.*' With the ordinary wicker hinges the
cover will work loose in a short time; and if the creel
has the ordinary wicker staple instead of a leather
and metal lock you must use a whittled plug which is
continually falling out and, if not tied to the basket,
getting lost. Have the opening in the basket-cover at
the end rather than in the middle. When fishing, line
the bottom of the creel with washed-out moss or ferns.
This keeps the creel cleaner and preserves the trout.
A nine-pound creel costs $1.25.
The basket sling should by all means be of the style
that leaves the shoulder of the casting arm free. This
sling IS known as the " new style." The strap sup-
porting the basket passes over the J eft shoulder and the
CLOTHES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES 95
creel is held in place by a light strap around the body
under the right shoulder. The old style sling hangs
the basket from the right shoulder across the body, thus
bringing all the weight on the casting arm. Be sure
to get the new style sling when you buy your new
creel. Best, $1.25.
Canvas creels are made in dififerent styles and for
regular use are not to be recommended. They keep
the trout in mussy shape and are otherwise undesirable.
They are, however, for occasional use, very handy,
since they fold up and may be slipped into the pocket
of the hunting coat where they can be carried easily
and with little inconvenience. $1.00.
While a landing net is a first-class nuisance on a
brushy trout stream, continually getting fouled
in the brush, the angler who wishes to
land the rather infrequent "whale"— Landing
Net.
the loss of which always overshadows
the basketing of numerous small fry — will religiously
carry one. It is by far the best plan always to have
a net along no matter how much of a bother it is.
"When fishing from a canoe the net should have a
handle at least four feet in length. For wading, a
short-handled net with elastic cord to sling over the
shoulder is the best sort. The take-down nets with
folding metal frame are the least troublesome and very
satisfactory. A net frame and handle of this sort for
use when wading will cost $1.00. The net itself must
96 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
be purchased separately and costs about 40 cents. On
a long trip one should have at least two landing nets as
they are easily lost.
The angler who specializes on trout fishing does not
really need a tackle box since he will probably use a
stock fly-book, a stream fly-book and
ac e ox. jg^^j^gj. j.gg][ cases, and the articles which
need a general receptacle are very few. But almost all
trout fishermen condescend to take a few bass or other
fish in season, and the accumulation of tackle of
various sorts soon reaches a point where it is neces-
sary to have " a place for everything and everything in
its place " — otherwise, chaos. The one thing to be
sure about is to get a box that will pack easily in a
suit case. Most of the boxes are made short and rather
high, and are, consequently, unhandy to carry about.
Avoid too many trays. A tin box will hold just as
much tackle as a de luxe box in sole leather. The
leather boxes are, however, very much the stronger and
better; and for a canoe trip on which things are un-
avoidably banged around a good deal the leather box
is the only thing; the tin boxes are soon total wrecks.
Prices range for the japanned tin boxes between $1.00
and $5.00. The leather boxes are rather expensive:
$7.00 to $15.00. It is a good plan to have two boxes,
one large one for the general kit, and a small one for
the pocket — an especially good plan for the bait-caster.
When you get the " big one," if you would do the
thing scientifically and right, it is necessary — although
CLOTHES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES 97
It may spoil a good fish story — to measure and weigh
him. For ordinary trout, fishing scales
weighing up to four pounds, by ounces,
are right. And if you get a trout that is too big for
your scales — you may if the fishing is done where
brown trout are found — you will be mighty glad of
the excuse to swagger into the village " store " and
request the proprietor to weigh him ; of such, to a trout
fisherman, is the kingdom of heaven. For measuring
nothing is better than the little self-winding tapes in
a case about the size of a half-dollar. A good pair of
scales — poor ones are worth less than nothing — will
cost about $i.oo. The tapes may be had at any sta-
tionery store for five or ten cents.
A line releaser is one of the things you may properly
leave to experiment with at some future time — and
do this consistently. If you decorate a
few trees with leaders and flies it will T^^^
teach you to be careful about the back
cast and accurate with the forward cast, both of which
things are very desirable. Description of the mechanics^
of this contrivance seems hardly necessary. It doesn't
infallibly release. Price, $i.oo.
This is a good investment. If you have a repair kit
— to say nothing of its use on the stream for you will
probably leave it at home — you will un-
doubtedly learn eventually how to re- ^
wind, re-varnish and otherwise tinker rods and other
tackle, which is not only practically interesting but
98 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
cheats the professional repairers. Anglers who can in-
dite a sonnet to a " speckled beauty," or write a " Song
of the Reel " are in the majority. Those who can re-
wind a fly-rod are vastly in the minority. A very am-
bitious repair kit, the best available — with one excep-
tion— contains pliers, nippers, screw-drivers, tweez-
ers, oil-can, ferrule cement, file, wrapping silk, and
various other articles too numerous to mention, and
all are enclosed in a handy folding leather case small
enough to go into a pocket. But it costs a pretty penny
— $7.50. The " exception " costs $12.00. Other less
comprehensive and luxurious kits, sufficiently adequate
however, cost $1.50.
A small-sized Adirondack pack-basket may be highly
recommended to the angler — especially the canoeing
bait-caster — for use even on short trips.
Miscellane- therein may be carried the rod, net,
ous Dume.
tackle box, sweater or rainproof coat,
camera and other duffle. It makes one package of many
and tends to avoid having tackle and other stuff scat-
tered about the boat or canoe where it is underfoot and
liable to be smashed or water-soaked.
For late spring and summer fishing a good fly-dope
is a necessary part of the outfit. Frequently it spells
the difference between fly-fishing and mere fly-fighting.
A folding film camera is best adapted to the angler's
needs, and the " postal " size, 3j4x5^ is a very good
one. Have it fitted with a graduated shutter giving
exposures from one second to i -100 of a second, not the
CLOTHES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES 99
cheaper TIB affair. Usually the only possible sue
cessful exposure is a very slow instantaneous on ac
count of the shade of the woods. Unless you are out
for photographs purely er primarily do not attempt to
use a plate camera.
In the matter of shooting-irons there is no excuse for
taking anything larger than a .22 of some sort on a
fishing trip. " Combination " hunting and fishing
trips are not usually very successful in either branch.
If the fishing is to be done from a canoe a .22 repeat-
ing rifle is the thing, using either the long-rifle, the
Automatic or the .22-7. But if wading is the program
a single-shot pistol with barrel heavy enough to handle
the long-rifle cartridge without excessive " jumping "
is most practicable. The new smokeless and greaselesS
long-rifle cartridge should be used. This cartridge, al-
though only a target size, will account very nicely for
grouse, ducks, and the smaller furred game — if you
shoot straight.
When fishing brushy mountain streams and small
swamp brooks one of the handiest things you can have
along is a light-weight pocket-axe that you can slip in
a hip-pocket and never know it is there until you want
It. Perhaps, some day, after you have gnawed apart
a good-sized and very tough tree with a jack-knife, to
make a bridge over a flooded brook in a tamarack
swamp — or walked ten miles to get around it — you
will remember this.
In the matter of what to wear it is difficult to give
xoo FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
advice which will be generally applicable. Trout fish-
ing is done under a variety of local con-
^' ditions and at different seasons, in the
woods and in near-home meadow lands, by wading the
stream and by casting from boat or canoe. The arti-
cles here mentioned are suitable for stream wading in
the spring or summer in such streams as those of the
Catskills, the Berkshires, the Adirondacks or streams
of like character.
Woolen underclothes and socks of medium weight
are by far the best for the purpose. The danger of
cotton lies in the fact that when wet with water or
perspiration it cools very quickly.
Nothing is more suited to the trout fisherman's needs
than a hunting coat of canvas, khaki or duxbak, the
last being practically waterproof and an especially good
material. These coats are roomy and — here's the
reason — they are all pockets. For warm weather
trout fishing a sleeveless khaki coat cannot be beaten.
Coats of this description cost from $2.00 to $5.CX).
Trousers of any of the above materials and also of
corduroy — the latter if the country is very rough —
are suitable. Another very tough material, and lighter
than corduroy, is fustian. Knickers or riding breeches
are good to wear inside boots and waders since they
do away with the bunchy fold necessary when wearing
long trousers. Khaki riding breeches of the army pat-
tern have no hip-pockets, a great fault in them for
field use but one easily remedied. Corduroy wears like
CLOTHES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES loi
iron but is nasty stuff when wet, dries slowly and is
very heavy. Any old pair of trousers will do. Prices
for canvas, khaki and duxbak, $3.00 to $3.50.
A felt hat with medium brim is the best for all-
round trout fishing wear, particularly good if you are
caught out in a hard rain. Where a good deal of
brush work is to be done a close-fitting cap of some
tough material is perhaps preferable because it is not
quite so apt to be caught and pulled off by branches;
also the stiff peak can be pulled down over the eyes
affording them great protection. For warm weather
fishing nothing is better than one of the round duck
hats; this when you are not going to be in the woods
to any extent.
Shirts of gray flannel and a sweater complete the
outfit with the exception of waders.
The choice lies between rubber hip-boots, regular
wading stockings to be worn with wading shoes, or
wading pants worn with wading shoes.
Wading pants and stockings are good to ^ ^^^'
use when you are living or camping near your fishing;
otherwise, they are, in some ways, undesirable.
Woolen socks should be worn between waders and
shoes to keep the feet of the waders from chafing. An
outfit of mackintosh stockings and wading shoes will
cost about $10.00; wading pants, $2.00 more. I do
not believe that anything is better suited to the pur-
pose, under average conditions, than a good pair of
light-weight hip-boots. For wading very rocky streams
102 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
have them leather soled and the soles studded with a
few soft hobnails. Wear inside them a pair of well-
fitting woolen socks — not the " rubber-boot mocca-
sins " which are usually furnished and are sure to
work down at the heels and make things generally un-
comfortable. The mackintosh boots are also good ; also
more expensive.
In the warmer months, if you are so situated that
you can change into dry things reasonably soon after
you are through fishing, the best plan is to wear neither
boots or waders but to wade the stream in woolen socks
and an old pair of knee-high hunting boots with small
slits cut in them to let out the water; or the regular
wading shoes may be worn with canvas leggings.
Many anglers prefer to get wet from the " outside
in " rather than from the " inside out." Following
this plan you do not, as Mr. Wells expressed it, " stew
in your own juice."
General Summary of Trout Fly-Tackle and
Equipment.
A good outfit for average trout fly-fishing:
Rod: lo ft., six-strip, split-bamboo; weight, 6
ounces.
Reel: Single-action click; rubber and German sil-
ver; loo yds.
Line: Waterproofed, enameled silk, size E; 25
yds.
CLOTHES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES 103
Leaders: i doz., 6 ft.; "medium trout"; better
make them yourself.
Flies: 4 doz., on No. 8 and 10 hooks; a half dozen
of each kind, four of them on the No. 8 hooks; Coach-
man, cowdung, March brown, queen of the waters,
Cahill, Montreal, grizzly king, Beaverkill.
Fly-book: To hold four dozen flies.
Leader box: Nickel.
Creel: 9 lb., willow; new style sling.
Landing net: Metal frame take-down with elastic
cord.
The above will form a pretty fair basic outfit. You
will add various articles and, also, various items will
constantly be subtracted from this list by wear and
accident.
Wear: Canvas, khaki or duxbak hunting coat.
Trousers of same material. Woolen underclothes
and socks. Light-weight hip-boots or waders. Felt
hat.
Carry — if you feel like it — one or two of the fol-
lowing: Waterproof match safe ; pocket axe ; .22 pistol
or rifle; line releaser; scales and tape; repair kit; cam-
era. Do not load up with a lot of superfluous dufflr
of only semi-occasional or questionable utility. You
will have trouble enough without packing a sporting
goods store through the brush.
Don't forget your pipe and tobacco — and plenty
of matches.
104 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
Remember, also, when you have the chance to catch
more trout than you ought to, not to do it.
And — " may the East wind never blow."
Note. — The foregoing chapters are in many ways ap-
plicable to the subjects treated in the following. The
reader who is not immediately interested in trout fly-
fishing should, nevertheless, read the above, especially
with regard to rod construction and selection. To avoid
needless repetition subsequent chapters will be less de-
tailed in many respects.
CHAPTER VIII
THE ROD FOR BAIT-CASTING
WITH the exception of a few scattered arti-
cles which have appeared in one or two
magazines scarcely anything has appeared
in print concerning the tools and tackle required for
the modern angling method of bait-casting with a short
rod, free-running reel, and some form of bait usually
artificial. Recently several books have been published,
dealing largely or entirely with angling, but in none
of them is more than passing notice taken of bait-cast-
ing; and the little that their authors have had to say
has been rather misleading than otherwise, simply, it
would seem, because they were discussing a method
with which they happened to be unfamiliar. For this
reason I shall try to make the present discussion as ade-
quate as possible, especially in view of the fact that an-
glers all over the country are enthusiastic about the
sport, while new recruits are constantly joining the
ranks, proving conclusively that the game has come to
stay.
Bait-casting is usually done for bass, and in the fol-
lowing discussion of the casting rod and other bait-
io6 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
casting tools and tackle their fitness for use in angling
for this game fish will be chiefly considered. The an-
gler having become familiar with casting for bass
should have no trouble in making the necessary tackle
changes for mascalonge and others whenever it should
happen to be necessary.
Choice of material for the bait-casting rod is the
same as for the fly-rod — split-bamboo in hexagonal
and octagonal; greenheart; bethabara;
TUT ^' noibwood, a selected quality of bethaba-
ra; and lancewood. Steel rods for bait-
casting are also made in many styles. While in the mat-
ter of fly-rod material expert opinion is unanimously in
favor of split-bamboo, personal choice among experts
as to the best material for the casting rod is quite con-
flicting.
For tournament casting, it may be said that split-
bamboo is by far the most generally used ; from which
it would appear that this material, on the ground that
tournament casting is the acid test of tackle and meth-
ods of tackle handling, is the most likely to prove sat-
isfactory. But, as a matter of fact, when we come
down to practical angling and black bass, we find that
the solid wood rods, and sometimes the steel rods, are
used by fishermen far more frequently than those of
split-bamboo. For the explanation of this we have to
seek no farther than the character and habits of the
black bass and the generally rough-and-ready nature of
the fishing for him. The black bass, size for size, is
THE ROD FOR BAIT-CASTING 107
just about the hardest fighting game fish that swims, re-
sisting to the limit in both the water and the air ; and
the angler who makes a specialty of bass fishing must
be prepared to handle a fish of from one to five pounds
— two pounds frequently and very often more — a
very different matter from the usual quarter- or three-
quarter pound brook trout.
The situation resolves into something like this: If
your fishing is to be done in unobstructed waters, where
the bass may be safely given his head and where the rod
need never be brutalized, use a casting rod of split-
bamboo, six-strip preferably; this for the reason that,
equally as in the case of the fly-rod, the split-bamboo
casting rod, of good quality, is in a class by itself. But
if you fish in weedy lakes and rivers flowing through
woodlands, where the run which may be allowed the
bass is strictly limited, and where, at some period of the
play, it is practically certain that you will have to give
the butt, it is very much the best plan to use a good,
sturdy solid wood rod. For ease and pleasure of han-
dling and the utmost efficiency in casting — the split-
bamboo; for hammer-and-tongs bass fishing, the usual
sort, a solid wood rod will give you better service.
Solid wood rods for bait-casting may be had, as above
noted, in noibwood, bethabara, greenheart and lance-
wood. Their respective merits are in the order stated.
The noibwood rods are, unfortunately, controlled by a
single tackle firm and, consequently, " come high." I
have used one of them a great deal and may say unre-
io8 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
servedly that they are the finest casting rods in the
market; that is, in solid wood. Bethabara comes next
and is hard to find in the tackle stores. I know of only
one tackle maker who regularly furnishes bethabara
rods. Rods of greenheart and lancewood are furnished
by all the dealers in the most desirable lengths and
styles.
As a general utility rod for bait-casting probably
nothing is better than a steel rod of the best grade —
and there are many poor grades. They are furnished
in different styles and in all lengths. The best rods are
made with solid-cork hand-grasp and independent butt.
They are guaranteed for three years. Any number of
agates may be fitted, and German silver trumpet guides
are furnished regularly on some of them. Provided the
rod is wiped dry after using, to avoid rust, it is always
ready for use — no frayed windings, warped joints and
the like. Of course, considering a rod as merely a cast-
ing machine, the steel rod is not the equal of the good
split-bamboo and solid wood rods. The steel rod is,
however, about four times better than a split-bamboo of
equal price. The steel rod is a good one to learn the
game with and, also, a very handy tool at any time.
Do not, on a trip which will take you out of striking
distance of the tackle shops, depend solely on a steel
rod. It cannot be spliced.
The history of the bait-casting rod begins with the
rod known as the " Henshall," made to the specifica-
tions of Dr. James A. Henshall^ whose work in the
THE ROD FOR BAIT-CASTING 109
field of angling literature, and in game fish culture,
has placed every American sportsman
deeply in his debt. This rod is 8>4 Length
feet in length, and designed purely for "Weight
underhand casting, the side cast, and for
casting the minnow and other natural baits, a method
discussed in a later chapter. This form of bass fish-
ing, with its accompaniments of live-bait trouble-mak-
ers, never acquired wide popularity, the majority of
bass fishermen continuing to still-fish or troll or, under
favorable conditions, fly-fish. Then, only a few years
ago, some anglers in the vicinity of Chicago began to
use a very short rod, generally less than six feet, and
to cast overhead ; a method suited to and evolved from
the local bass fishing conditions, weedy, shallow lakes,
where great accuracy in casting, attained best by the
overhead cast, and a sturdy rod were essentials. The
baits used were frogs and various pork-rind baits.
Followed then the invention of a number of artificial
baits which were very successful and adapted for cast-
ing with the short rod — and the game of bait-casting
had its inception. Many anglers now favor the ex-
clusive use of artificial baits for bass even as the fly-
fishing purist is wont to frown upon the use of bait for
trout. This is purely a matter of the personal equa-
tion. Many of us can still see some slight, passing
merit in a " garden hackle," or, on occasion, some little
utility in the plebeian strip of pork-rind.
For practical angling it is now pretty generally con-
no FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
ceded that the proper length for the casting rod lies
somewhere between 53^ and 6 feet. Personally I have
cast with a Henshall rod, 8yi feet, a 7-foot rod, a 5^-
foot rod, and a 6-foot rod. With each of these I have
had a good deal of experience under various condi-
tions, and I have talked and fished much with other
anglers who used rods of other lengths. For all round
fishing the six-foot rod is, it seems to me, by far the
best. The average length of the original " Kalama-
zoo '' casting rods was less than five feet ; and for long
distance tournament work rods of 5j4 to 5^ feet are
the most common. But the casting rod for fishing
must be adapted to landing a bass as well as to mere
casting; and, within reasonable limits, the wise angler
will sacrifice casting distance to efficient bass-handling.
It has been proven by the experience of a multitude of
bait-casters, certainly by my own experience, that the
very short rods are mighty poor tools with which to
land a bass. The rod, however, must not be too long,
for this will make the overhead cast a matter of too
much difficulty. In fishing, the side and overhead cast
will be used impartially. The six-foot rod is long
enough to handle a bass well, and short enough for
overhead casting; in fact, it answers all the require-
ments of the bait-casting rod. The six-foot rod is
hereby recommended.
The matter of weight will be regulated by the
length of rod and the rod material. Split-bamboo
casting rods average about an ounce to the foot; solid
I
r-
1
i t
II
>
1
I
1!
t ' % af
;| 1
%
' MB W
THE ROD FOR BAIT-CASTING in
wood rods slightly more; the steel rods are the heavi-
est. A six-foot split bamboo casting rod should weigh
about SIX ounces; one of noibwood or greenheart,
seven ounces; steel, eight ounces.
Bait-casting rods are made in one-piece style with
independent butt; in two joints and in three joints.
One-piece rods are obviously the best
and, also obviously, the worst. That -^"? f^
1^ J .11 1- 1- /: • of Joints,
such a rod will have the finest attaina-
ble action and the greatest strength goes without say-
ing — but the rod doesn't " go " without trouble.
They are very unhandy things to carry. For ordinary
use they are not desirable. Personally I always sus-
pect a two-piece rod with ferrules directly in the mid-
dle where the greatest strain comes; but many costly
rods are made in this way by makers who are sup-
posed to know their business. However, the two-piece
rod is not here advised. The rod in three joints is the
best for the everyday angler; it is handy to carry and
preferable in other ways.
In regard to ferrules and ferrule material, hand-
grasp material, and the like, the reader is referred to
Chapter 3. Guides for the casting
rod are very different from those for the -p-f/?
fly-rod and demand separate discussion.
The short casting rod as it first appeared generally in
the tackle stores was fitted with very large guides,
made of one or several turns of wire, the diameter
of the guides being sometimes as large or even larger
112 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
than a twetity-five cent piece. Few good rods are
found at the present time fitted with these exaggerated
Kalamazoo guides, although you will occasionally see
them in use. They are not necessary ; they burden the
rod ; make the rod unhandy to put in its case ; and —
do not use them. Of course the idea was to avoid the
friction of the out-running line, but experience has
proven that the more conservative guides are nearly
if not quite as efficient.
The rod may be adequately fitted in the matter of
guides in two ways: First, the best and most expen-
sive way, use nothing but narrow raised-agates of
moderate size and offset agate tip guide; or, secondly,
trumpet guides of German silver with agate hand and
tip guides. For long distance casting the raised
agates are the thing ; but, as in fly-casting, the man who
is continually trying to cast " clean across the lake "
generally gets more exercise than bass. At any rate
use the agate hand and tip guides. Increased ease in
casting undoubtedly results and they save line-wear to
a very appreciable extent.
Some very good rods are furnished with a finger-
rest. While this is more or less a matter of taste, the
use of a finger-pull is not at all necessary for good
casting and it is better not to use one. They are
liable to get smashed and are in the way when casing
the rod. The finger-pull was a regular feature of the
first short casting rods but is not now so frequently
seen ; indeed, the present tendency among rod makers is
THE ROD FOR BAIT-CASTING 113
toward discontinuing entirely its use on the better class
rods.
You will have to choose between the single and
double handgrasp. In this matter, also, personal pref-
erence IS a factor. The rod with double handgrasp is
more comfortable to fish with, since the rod hand is
less liable to become cramped, the upper grasp afford-
ing a larger and firmer grip. The single grasp rod
has the better action and dispenses with the weight,
small to be sure, of the extra grasp. But if you find
two rods both equally acceptable to you, one with
double grasp, the other with single, choose the former,
Be sure that the construction of the reel-seat is such
as to give the reel a very firm attachment. Some form
of locking reel-bands, not necessarily complicated or ex-
pensive, IS preferable.
A good bait-casting rod will cost about the same
as a fly-rod of equal quality. The best grade split-
bamboo rods average about $25.00;
medium grade $15.00 to $18.00. Solid
wood rods of the best grade in bethabara, greenheart
and lancewood, may be had for $8.00 to $12.00; noib-
wood, $15.00; steel rods up to $10.00. For agate
hand and tip guides add $2.00.
.« The logical place to discuss casting
Casting from the reel is in connection with the
Reel casting rod; the reader should, however,
to thoroughly understand the following,
familiarize himself with the other tackle in use by
114 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
reference to the next chapter. It is a good plan,
when learning how to cast, to use a surface bait, one
that will float when you get into trouble with the reel
and line; that is, of course, when practicing over
water. It is quite practicable to learn casting over a
lawn or any unobstructed place, and in this case a half-
ounce dipsey sinker makes a good casting weight, or a
tournament weight, furnished by all the tackle dealers,
may be used. It is preferable, however, to practice
over water. There are two styles of casting from the
reel, the side and overhead casts, and of these the
side cast is much the easier to learn. When you have
acquired the side cast so that you can use it effectively
and without backlashing the overhead cast will come
more as a matter of course. The side cast is made as
follows :
Assemble the rod and place the reel in the reel-seat
so that when the rod is held with the reel on top the
handle of the reel will be to the right. Reel up the
line so that the casting weight or bait hangs about one
foot from the rod tip. With neither click nor drag on
the reel, so that the spool will revolve freely, and
keeping the thumb of your rod hand firmly pressed
down on the line wound on the reel, swing the rod to
the rear with the rod tip pointing a little downward.
Then bring the rod smartly forward and slightly up-
ward across the body in the direction you wish to
cast, releasing the pressure of the thumb on the line
sufficiently to allow the line to run out through the
THE ROD FOR BAIT-CASTING 115
guides when the rod has swung about half-way
through the cast. The thumb must never be entirely
removed from the line as it runs out, but must control
the reel and the rendering of the line throughout the
entire cast. Otherwise the reel will revolve faster
than the line pays out and a backlash will result. Any
adequate definition of a backlash is quite unprintable.
The whole trick lies in educating the thumb to regu-
late the reel speed.
Presuming that you are actually fishing, as soon as
the bait reaches the water, just prior to which point
the thumb should firmly clamp the reel to prevent
further rendition of the line, shift the rod from the
right to the left hand, the left hand grasping the rod
above the reel, and reel in the bait taking care to dis-
tribute the line evenly on the reel with the thumb or
fingers of the left hand. When using artificial bait
care must be taken to keep the bait in motion at all
times; so, regulate the shift of the rod from one hand
to the other so that, at the end of the cast, the bait
will not lie motionless on the water for even a second.
With a little practice you will have no trouble in
making casts quite sufficient for general fishing pur-
poses, although, probably, you would not shine in a
casting tournament. The principle of the overhead
cast is exactly the same as that of the side cast. To
make this cast, however, the rod is brought back over
the shoulder and swung directly forward. Greater
distance and accuracy are obtained with this cast than
ii6 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
by the side cast; and the angler should acquire it as
soon as possible.
Recapitulation.
Complete specifications for the casting rod should be
about as follows:
Material: For general work a rod of solid wood;
noibwood or bethabara preferred. For practice cast^
ing and open fishing, split-bamboo.
Joints : Three.
Length: 5^ to 6 feet; the latter recommended.
Ferrules: German silver, waterproof, capped, ser^
rated and welted.
Reel-seat: German silver; above grasp.
Handgrasp: Solid cork; either double or single.
Guides: Narrow raised agates are the best; Ger-
man silver trumpet guides with agate hand and tip
guides.
Plain windings.
CHAPTER IX
REELS, LINES AND ARTIFICIAL BAITS
SIMPLICITY IS the keynote of the bait-caster's
outfit and is, moreover, one of the potent rea-
sons for the popularity of this angling method.
The tackle for bait-casting is far simpler than that re-
quired for fly-casting or general bait-fishing for bass.
Rod, reel, line, and a few artificial baits which may
be easily carried in a small tackle box are, with the
exception of a few general angling tools, all that is
required. But in the case of reel and line your choice
must be made carefully. With the right tackle bait-
casting is a matter of little difHculty; with the wrong
tackle it is an impossibility. Only one sort of reel
and one sort of line can be used successfully for bait-
casting.
The Reel.
Bait-casting can be properly done only with a quad-
ruple multiplying reel. For fly-fishing the reel, pro-
vided the right kind is used, is a very secondary af-
fair. In bait-casting the reel is the most important
item in the entire outfit. You can rig up guides on
117
ii8 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
an umbrella handle or a broomstick, fit either of them
with a good reel, go fishing and catch bass. This in-
volves a confession but I feel impelled to say that once,
when bait-casting for bass, I smashed the rod short off
at the upper end of the middle joint. Whereupon I
discarded the tip and continued to cast with the re-
mains— with no great difficulty but, naturally, with
little grace, — and took four good bass after the smash-
up. Practically in bait-casting the reel does all the
work, and the amount of work it has to do is immense.
An average day's fishing will usually amount to
about six hours of continual casting, during which the
reel is constantly at work, paying out the line at high
speed and again recovering it. It goes without saying
that a poor mechanism, a reel of cheap material and
carelessly adjusted, will be racked apart very shortly.
You cannot over-estimate the importance of the reel,
or the importance of a good reel if you want to get the
most out of your sport.
The quadruple casting reel has four revolutions of
the spindle to one turn of the handle. The reel han-
dle is not, as in the case of the single-
How the action reel, fixed to the spindle directly,
Made ^^^ connects with a ratchet which in
turn works in a cog-wheel at the spindle
end. The ratchet with which the reel handle con-
nects may have 32 cogs to 8 in the spindle ratchet,
thus giving four turns, of the spindle to one of the
handle. This mechanism is enclosed within the plates
REELS, LINES AND BAITS 119
on the handle side of the reel, and within the opposite
plates are placed the click and drag. Some casting
reels are made without the drag and in this connec-
tion It may be said that if the reel has a good strong
click, sufficient, say, to keep the line from out-run-
ning when trolling, the drag is unnecessary. But if
the click is not strong there will be many occasions
when a drag is needed. All working parts of the
reel should be of tempered steel, otherwise its life will
be correspondingly short.
The quadruple reel is made for the purpose of
casting out a far line, and distinctly not for the pur-
pose of whirling in a fish. But the reel need not
necessarily be so finely constructed that it will run for
half an hour when the handle is given a start. In
fact, a reel of this sort is apt to be troublesome to the
angler, productive of backlashes. It follows that the
practical angler may dispense with jeweled bearings,
insisting only that the reel be well and strongly made,
sufficiently free-running, and with its working parts
of honest steel — a tool for hard work and lots of it.
Jeweled bearings have, however, the virtue of making
the reel longer lasting, which is a consideration worth
taking into account.
In the matter of reel material, while many reels
are made of hard rubber and German silver in com-
bination, almost all the good casting
reels are made of solid metal, princi-
pally of German silver, cheaper ones being furnished
uo FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
in nickel. Aluminum is also used, particularly for
the spool.
As noted below, the line for bait-casting is of very
small caliber and it follows that a large reel is not
needed. Casting lines are sold in fifty-
<^h ^^^ ^^^^ lengths, and to hold this amount
' of line a sixty-yard reel is quite large
enough. The multiplying reel holds practically the
amount of line called for by the trade size, this not
being the case, as above noted, with the single-action
reel. The next size reel, 80 yards, requires, when 50
yards of line are used, a core of line, cork or wood to
fill up the reel spool before the casting line proper
IS wound on. Some casters build around the reel spin-
dle a core of cork or wood; but this is a troublesome
affair in case the angler wishes at any time to use
more line than allowed for when fitting the core.
It IS better simply to wind on a core of cheap line al-
though this is apt to work loose and cause soft and un-
even spooling of the line. On a light split-bamboo
casting rod use a small reel. For solid wood or steel
rods any of the 80-yard reels will do.
In shape the reel should be long in the barrel, that
is, between the end plates, and the end plates should
be of small diameter, thus differing from the ordinary
double-multiplying reel in which the spindle is usually
short. The long barrel facilitates thumbing the reel.
Reels having even-spooling or self-thumbing devices
are on the market, the idea being, it seems, to make
REELS, LINES AND BAITS 121
any skill on the part of the caster unnecessary. Re-
putedly they do what is claimed for them; personally
I have never used one. It seems to me that there
would not be much sport in using a self-aiming rifle
or an auto-striking trout fly, and that there would be
very little more enjoyment in using a self- thumbing
reel. Mechanical advancement in the manufacture of
rifles, reels and the like, is a praiseworthy thing un-
til it reaches a point where skill on the part of the
user is partially or wholly eliminated. When a sport-
ing tool reaches this stage of " advancement " it ceases
to be desirable.
The position of the multiplying reel on the casting
rod is properly on top of the rod with the handle to
the right for the right-handed caster.
If you go into the literature of casting tr ,,
r 1 -n r 1 1 Position.
tor bass to any extent you will nnd that
another method, with the reel underneath the rod —
that is, turned underneath when reeling in — is stren-
uously advocated by certain writers. Have the reel on
top, handle to the right, and keep it there both when
casting and retrieving. This is the advice and prac-
tice of experienced bait-casters almost to a man. The
reel, when placed in this way, is far easier to keep
under constant control either when thumbing the out-
running line or spooling the line when reeling in.
As regards the amount to pay for a bait-casting reel
— you can go pretty nearly as far as you like. Sixty
dollars is about the top price for a stock quadruple-
122 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
tnultiplier, and $2.00 is about as low as you can go.
Bearing in mind how delicate, in a way,
the mechanism of a satisfactory casting
reel must be, a matter of as accurate adjustment as the
assembling of a fine scientific instrument or watch, and,
also bearing in mind the amount of hard work the
reel must do, it is evident that the two-dollar reel
will not be quite the thing. On the other hand it is
hardly necessary to sink $60.00 for a reel. A certain
very popular reel used a great deal by tournament
casters and also for fishing, costs, full-jeweled, $37.00.
The same reel without jewels is $20.00. A reel of
this quality is quite good enough for anyone — en-
tirely too good for a great many. The reels most
frequently seen in use on lakes and streams in the
woods, as distinguished from those generally observed
in use on artificial casting pools in parks or Madison
Square! Garden, may be had for something between
$6.00 and $15.00. Some, not all, of these reels are
very good ones for practical fishing and, if well cared
for, will last a long time.
Take good care of the reel. Use a light, clean
oil upon it sparingly but frequently; and keep the reel
free from sand and dust on the outside.
yare or jf ^.j^^ j.ggj ^^^ select is one of the
the Reel. . , 1 t^ , .
various take-apart reels, why, take it
apart; but if it is not of this sort, by all means
leave it together. Probably you would not attempt
the taking-down and assembling of a watch, and a
REELS, LINES AND BAITS 123
finely adjusted quadruple reel is worthy of equal re-
spect. If you are one of the people who insist on
" seeing how it works " practice a little self-restraint
in this respect; curiosity has spoiled numberless good
casting reels. If anything goes wrong with the reel
let an expert right it; otherwise you may have to get
a new one.
The Line.
The line for use in bait-casting must be a very
small caliber silk line with no waterproofing or en-
ameling whatever. It should be braided rather than
twisted to avoid kinking as far as possible. It should
also be soft braided rather than hard braided. The
hard braided line does not spool as closely and well
as the soft braided, and, moreover, is apt to be hard
on the caster's thumb, wearing the skin down to the
" quick " in a few hours' casting. Two sizes are com-
monly used in fishing, sizes G and H, and a size even
smaller than H, known as " tournament " is some-
times used.
Never attempt to do bait-casting with a line larger
than size G. A large caliber line builds up so quickly
on the reel spindle that, unless the very greatest care
IS taken in spooling, more care than one wishes to ex-
ercise when fishing, a few turns of the reel handle will
result in a bunch of line thick enough, if the reel is
pretty well filled, to foul against the pillars of the reel.
For average fishing, then, use a size G soft braided
124 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
silk line. They come, as above noted, In 50-yard
lengths, one length being quite enough to use, and an
average price for a good line Is $1.25. The color is
rather Immaterial.
The balt-casting line having no vi^aterproofing or
enameling, and having to undergo the hardest sort of
treatment, being whipped out through the rod guides
numberless times In even a day's fishing, must receive
the very best of care or It w^Ul be rendered absolutely
worthless In a very short time. If j^ou wish the line
to last any time at all It must be thoroughly dried out
after every time It Is used ; otherwise, if left undrled on
the reel, only the outer windings will dry, the Inner
ones remaining wet for a good many hours; and It Is
obvious that with this sort of treatment the line, no
matter how good it Is, will rot very quickly. Before
every day's fishing test the first two or three feet of
the line. The friction from casting will whip out this
part of the line, and frequently you can tear off a foot
or two without applying any degree of force. Strict
observance of this rule will save you several dollars
worth of artificial baits the season and a good many
good bass. Drying the line Is a very simple matter.
You do not need a nickel plated windlass or any other
sort of patent contrivance. Simply draw the wet part
of the line from the reel, laying the coils evenly to
avoid the danger of tangling, on the floor, a table or a
chair seat*
REELS, LINES AND BAITS 125
Artificial Baits.
It is not so many years ago that the only artificial
baits used consisted of spoons in various styles, phan-
tom minnows, and divers rubber bugs. As noted
above the new method of casting from the reel greatly
stimulated the use and production of artificial lures
and, at the present time, the bait-caster may make his
selection from a great many different sorts, some of
which are very good and others very bad. Classifica-
tion of these baits in general shows two well differen-
tiated sorts ; sinking baits and surface baits. Although
not entirely, the greater part of the recently introduced
lures belong to the first of these classes. Generally
speaking the surface baits are only successful in rather
shallow water, two to eight or ten feet, and are, there-
fore, only to be used when the bass are in the shallows.
Of the sinking baits the wooden minnows are the most
numerous, are very extensively used, and the best ones
are usually very successful.
Of the under-water minnows — the wooden min-
nows are made for both surface and submerged fishing
— one of the best is the " rainbow,"
made by a well-known manufacturer of Wooden
, . ^. . . , Minnows.
castmg baits. 1 his minnow has a green
back, yellowish sides, and pink-to-white belly. As
usually furnished it is fitted with three burrs, or treble
hooks, and with spinners fore and aft. The " fancy
126 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
back " minnow, of the same make, with green and
white mottled back and white belly, is also very suc-
cessful. The same minnow is furnished in red, white
and other colors. When moving through the water
their action is very life-like, and they cast easily and
accurately, the weight being about three-fourths of an
ounce. The body material is cedar painted with sev-
eral coats and enameled, and so weighted that the
minnow always runs true. The spinners revolve in
opposite directions and, since the minnow itself does
not revolve, there is no necessity for swivels. They
are made in various sizes, the smallest being the one
to use. They are also furnished with single hooks as,
indeed are all the other casting baits mentioned herein.
The angler who does not favor the use of treble
hooks, and many very rightly do not, may have the
baits fitted with either single or double hooks to his
order.
Phantom minnows are now made weighted for cast-
ing from the reel. They are furnished in pairs, the
individual minnows made to revolve in
y antom opposite directions and to be used in turn
Minnows. ., , . , . , ,. ^r ,
to avoid kinking the line. Of these the
silver-and-blue is generally the best.
Other under-water casting baits arc
Trolling the various kinds of trolling spoons and
snoons ^^^ single-hook fly-spoons and spinners.
Every angler is familiar with the
trolling spoon. Used as a casting bait its efficiency is
REELS, LINES AND BAITS 127
very greatly increased and its use for bait-casting is
very general. A very favorable fact in regard to the
trolling spoons and fly-spoons is that while, perhaps,
they do not induce as many strikes as do the wooden
minnows or weighted phantoms they are more apt to
hold the bass when hooked than are the heavier baits;
this for the reason that, when the bass comes out of
the water and shakes himself, the weight of a wooden
minnow or other comparatively heavy bait affords the
fish a very substantial leverage and he is quite likely
to free himself. The spoons and small spinners be-
ing light and with several loosely moving joints do not
give this leverage. For bass and other general bait-
casting No. 2 or 3 spoons are the best. Spoons are
furnished in a multitude of shapes, hammered, fluted,
tandems, etc., but, as a matter of fact, there is very
little choice between them; and, such being the case,
the angler should select a spoon which has no tendency
toward freakishness. Use only the very best spoons
you can find, for in this way only is it possible to get
hooks upon which you can depend. The cheap spoons
are fitted with very cheap hooks. A very fine casting
bait is a " bucktail " spoon, especially good for bass.
The single-hook fly-spoons, small, light spoons with
very thin blades, used in connection with rather large-
sized bass flies of approved patterns, coachman, Mont-
real, scarlet ibis, royal coachman, silver doctor, and
others, are a necessary part of the bait-caster*s kit.
The fly-spoons of this sort, made in a very adequate
128 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
assortment of styles and sizes, by one well-known
tackle maker who makes a specialty of them, are es-
pecially fine. The flies are well tied, and true to pat-
tern, piano-wire shanks and no swivels are features,
and it would be difficult to praise them too highly —
they are " good tackle." For casting light baits a
small dipsey sinker should be used.
Some of the best of sport in bait-casting is to be
had when the bass are lying in the shallows and will
rise to a surface bait. The swirl and
c^riace vigor with which a two-pound, well-
conditioned bass strikes a floating bait,
followed by a fight always close to the surface and
usually with several strenuous jumps in close succes-
sion, place this branch .of bait-casting in a class by it-
self. In a way it has -the charm of fly-casting —
the visible strike of the quarry. But the accustomed
fly-caster, habituated to the delicate lures of his craft,
will require some time to become reconciled to the size
and appearance of the most successful floating baits
for bass. However, the success and sport which, under
favorable conditions — under favorable conditions, too
many writers have made it appear that the method is
at all times infallible — are such that the angler can
well afford to forego too strict conservatism.
The wooden minnows mentioned above are also
made for surface fishing; but in this form they are
rather large and make too much fuss in the water
for very successful use in civilized waters. In addi-
O u.
O OJ
J ^
tSU
J^ o
h
REELS, LINES AND BAITS 129
tion to these there are three well-known surface baits.
The first of these is an imitation made of cork and felt
of one of the favorite pork-rind baits of the Western
bait-caster. The body is made of white enameled
cork with small side wings of red felt and it has a
tail of red feathers. Its imitative purpose is two-fold,
to represent a large insect while in the air (on the the-
ory, a true one, that a bass sometimes starts for a bait
while it is still in the air) and a minnow when in the
water. Whether the bait actually fills this rather
versatile bill is a question; there is no question, how-
ever, about its catching bass. This bait, too, is prac-
tically weedless, more so than any other surface bait,
and, consequently is a good one to use when the bass
are lying close in-shore among weeds and rushes. It
is a single-hook lure but is generally used with an aux-
iliary trailer-hook, in which form it is most success-
ful, three out of five bass being taken on the trailer.
Another surface bait is what has been called " plug
shaped," is principally white in coloration, and derives
its bass-attractive motion from a metal collar placed
well forward. This bait is universally and very suc-
cessfully used by the devotees of surface bass fishing.
Of all surface baits this one is, perhaps, the best cal-
culated to arouse the well-known pugnacious instincts
of a black bass, and his fighting blood will often cause
him to rise to it when a smaller or less conspicuous
lure would receive scant attention.
One of the first top-water baits to receive the ap-
130 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
probation of the black bass is variously known as the
Yellow Kid, Jersey Queen, and by other names. It
is furnished by all the tackle dealers. Consultation
of a general tackle catalogue will identify the above
baits without difficulty. There are many others, some
perhaps quite as good, and others of no use whatever.
The bait-caster should have in his tackle box a
small screw-driver, pliers, and a " one-drop " oiler
filled with a light, clean oil. Occa-
Additional gionally one of the screws in the reel
will work loose and in such case the
screw-driver will come in very handy. The pliers
will be needed quite often for tinkering trolling spoons
and other casting baits. Occasionally the reel will
need oil when you are fishing — when the oiler will
save you from finishing out the day with a dry reel the
same being good for neither reel nor angler.
CHAPTER X
GENERAL SWEET-WATER TACKLE
THE greater part of fresh-water fishing tackle
is made for the purposes already discussed;
namely fly-fishing for trout and casting
for bass. Tackle selection for either of these angling
methods must necessarily be careful, and if the outfit
IS to be exactly suited to the required purpose there is
little room for choice between this rod or that one or,
say, between two styles of reels — the tackle is either
suitable or proves very plainly unsuitable. But, bar-
ring bass fly-tackle and tackle for salmon fishing, the
latter, of course, with the fly, it is not so very easy to
draw a hard and fast line between what is right or the
contrary for the several other sorts of fishing. In
various forms of still-fishing and trolling all sorts and
condition of rods, reels and other tackle are used ef-
fectively; consequently, the suggestions here offered
are not to be taken as positive advice against the use
of other and somewhat different tackle than that men-
tioned herein.
As regards bait-fishing for trout and the proper rod
to use for the sport, I think that the very best advice
131
132 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
that can be given is, no matter what sort of a rod
you use, not to use your fly-rod. If
r^^^i^^ you have the right fly-fishing spirit you
for Trout. .„ , . , ,
will not care to use bait except when the
trout are ground-feeding and will not rise to the sur-
face. The steady strain, in swift water, which a rod
has to undergo in this sort of work is best put upon
some other rod than a fine one of split-bamboo.
Also, it seems to me that the following is good ad-
vice: Do not use a regular bait-rod, that is, a rod
with the reel-seat above the hand, A rod of this sort
is all right for fishing from a boat, but for stream fish-
ing for trout It is undesirable. A rather short, sturdy
fly-rod, with the reel-seat below the hand, where you
are — or eventually will be if you become a worthy
fly-caster — most accustomed to it, is far better. A
split-bamboo rod, if it is any good at all, is too good
to use for bait fishing. A well-made solid wood rod
is perfectly good for the purpose ; and it should be the
opposite of whippy. Personally I think that one of
the shorter length and lighter weight steel fly-rods
cannot be beaten for all-round trout bait-fishing.
If you use a rod with the reel-seat below the hand-
grasp the single-action reel is the best to use in con-
junction therewith. If the reel-seat is above the hand,
and the reel is placed on top of the rod, neither of
which things is desirable, although it is, of course, more
or less a matter of personal opinion, a double-multiply-
ing reel may be used.
GENERAL SWEET-WATER TACKLE 133
No need to use a very expensive line for bait-fish-
ing, and it should be of smaller caliber than for fly-
casting. Twenty-five yards of size G " oiled silk "
line will fill the bill. However, an enameled line, al-
though not necessary, is less liable to whip around the
rod and for this reason will give better satisfaction.
For average worm-fishing a supply of Sproat hooks
from No. 5, no larger, to No. 8, on gut snells, should
be laid in.
While, perhaps, it is more than a mere matter of
taste, many experienced trout fishermen do not employ
leaders when worm-fishing. For surface bait-fishing,
with low and clear water — a good time for dry flies
and midges — it seems that leaders are preferable.
Three-foot leaders are long enough.
Choice of lead lies between ringed sinkers and split-
shot. The former are easier to put on and take off.
The best style of bait-box is crescent-shaped and worn
on a belt. In all other particulars the tackle is the
same as for trout fly-fishing.
Unfortunately, reliable bass fly-fishing is rather dif-
ficult to find. This, it should be said, is through no
fault of the black bass, but, rather, be-
cause most bass waters are more adapted ■'^^ss-'J* ^7"
tackle,
to bait-casting and other forms of bait-
fishing with artificial and natural baits than to fly-
fishing. For this reason, except in certain favored
localities where stream fly-fishing for bass is done in
much the same way as one wades a trout stream, the
134 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
majority of anglers use their trout tackle, with large
size trout flies, for such occasional bass fly-fishing as
they may find. However, the angler who intends to
make a specialty of bass fly-fishing should outfit in a
slightly different way.
The rod for bass fly-fishing should by all means be
of split-bamboo. Ten feet is a very good length, and
a rod an ounce or so heavier than the trout fly-rod
and with a stiff backbone should be selected. The
guides and other mountings should be exactly the same
as for the trout fly-rod. With a rod such as the above,
twenty-five yards of waterproof, enameled silk line,
either level or tapered, size E, should be used.
A single-action click reel, loo-yard size, is most
suitable for the rod and line above specified. For bass
fly-fishing a double-multiplying reel may properly be
used, but is not recommended because of its liability
to foul the line. The quick retrieve of the double-
multiplier is sometimes of advantage when playing a
large bass from the reel. If a multiplier is used select
the 8o-yard size.
Leaders for bass fly-fishing should be of the caliber
most commonly known as " regular bass." The six-
foot length should be selected — or made — and it is
best to use only one fly, so the leader need not have
dropper loops. Where small flies are used, such as the
larger size trout flies — and these are recommended by
many experienced bass fly-fishermen — one dropper
fly may be used.
GENERAL SWEET- WATER TACKLE 135
Regulation bass flies are tied upon Nos. 2, 4 and 6
hooks, and some even larger on Nos. i and i-o; but
these last are most suited to trolling. Flies on 4 and
6 hooks are plenty large enough and best suited to
almost all bass waters.
Here is a list of good bass flies: Coachman, Hen-
shall, oriole, royal coachman, silver doctor, Ferguson,
Montreal, Parmachene Belle, scarlet ibis, grizzly
king. Also the various hackles and palmers.
Other necessary articles for the bass fly-fishing kit,
all of w^hich have been above described, are: Leader
box, fly-book, creel, etc. See chapters on trout fly-
fishing. The subject of bass fly-fishing is, of course,
entitled to much more extended treatment than is
here accorded it ; but the tools and tackle for the same
so closely approximate those required for trout fly-
casting that, in view of the above rather full treatment
of the latter, further discussion seems unnecessary
here.
Trolling IS a favorite and effective method of taking
bass and other game fish and the tackle required is
not at all complicated. As a usual
thing the angler can assemble a good Trolling
Td.ckl6
trolling outfit from his general kit.
The rod may be of any sort — it is taken for granted
that you will not care to troll with a hand-line —
but should be a stiff one. For the reason that a quad-
ruple-multiplying reel has not the winding-in power
of a double-multiplier the latter should be used. Any
136 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
of the artificial casting baits mentioned in Chapter 9
are also suited to trolling. The top-water baits, in
particular are good to troll with since they do not get
fouled easily and do not sink to the bottom when for
any reason the boat is stopped.
Be generous in your use of swivels, for of all meth-
ods trolling is most apt to throw a kink in the line;
and for this reason it is best not to use a line upon
which you depend for bait-casting. Also, do not use
a light split-bamboo casting-rod for trolling, since the
steady deep-water strain is liable to give it a set. If
your favorite fishing is fly- and bait-casting your reel
outfit will probably consist of single-actions and quad-
ruple-multipliers. In this case get a double-multiplier,
8o-yard size. A very good one can be had in rubber
and nickel for $4.50. Use 50 or 75 yards of F or G
oiled silk line. Be sure that the reel has a strong
click so that, when trolling, the line will not run out
when the thumb is removed from the spool.
Still-fishing with live minnows and other natural
baits is the most universally practiced method of fish-
ing. Most of the people who " go fish-
^^t'^W^'^^ ing" never learn to cast either fly or
bait — which is not saying that some ex-
perienced anglers do not employ still-fishing methods.
But, as purely a matter of sport, the action and interest
and, moreover, the skill required for fly- or bait-cast-
ing, are such that the two, stiU-fishing and casting, are
hardly comparable.
GENERAL SWEET-WATER TACKLE 137
Still fishing is usually done from a boat and, for
the reason that it is well to get the bait as far as
possible from the boat, a rather long rod is best. For
boat fishing a rod with the reel-seat above the hand
is most practical. The steel rods are excellent for the
purpose or any solid wood rod will do. A 60- or 80-
yard double-multiplying reel is right, with 25-yards
of G line. No. 4 and 6 Sproat hooks, on strong snells,
should be used. Use very small ringed sinkers.
The Henshall casting rod, mentioned in the dis-
cussion of the bait-casting rod, or a rod of similar
dimensions, should be used for casting
the live minnow. This rod is 8>^ feet The Min-
in length and should be mounted as ^P^ -rT j ""
regards reel-seat, guides, etc., in the
same way as the short casting rod. The short rod is
not adapted to casting the natural minnow since the
quick start of the overhead cast is too apt to snap off
the bait. The line and reel are the same as for the
shorter rod. The Henshall is a good rod, also, to use
for casting light spoons and spinners. This style of
casting rod is adapted only to the side cast.
Comparatively few anglers have ever enjoyed the
privilege of fly-fishing for salmon in the famous
Canadian streams where this sport, un-
doubtedly the highest form of angling, ^?^1^^^
• r t . 1 -r* 1 rly-tackle.
IS found at its best. But many anglers
now take advantage of the salmon fishing offered by
the non-preserved waters of Nova Scotia and New-
138 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
foundland, where the sport, if not equal to that offered
by the classic Canadian rivers, is still strictly worth
while. For this reason — the subject hardly comes
properly under " general " sweet-water tackle — it
seems best to include here a few suggestions about
salmon fly-fishing tackle, although it may be said that
the angler who has the ambition to tackle salmon will,
beyond doubt, know more about salmon tackle than
it is possible to tell him herein.
If you can afford it select a rod of split-bamboo;
these may be had for from $30.00 to $50.00. Solid
wood rods of greenheart and noibwood are, however,
very extensively used, and an average price for a rod
of this sort is $25.00. The prices given are for rods
14 or 15 feet in length, and these lengths are the best.
The standard length of the salmon fly-rod adopted
for tournament casting is 15 feet. Salmon fly-rods,
since both hands are used in casting, are built with
double hand-grasp. Other fittings such as " snake "
guides, etc., should be the same as for the trout fly-rod.
A single-action click reel, supplied with a reliable
drag, to hold 100 yards of C or D enameled line is
right for the rods mentioned. A salmon fly-reel of
this size, in German silver and rubber will cost about
$22.00; in nickel and rubber $14.00. A double-
tapered enameled line, size C, 120-yard length, costs
$11.00. Regular, level, enameled silk line, the same
as used for trout fly-fishing but in the larger sizes,
averages $1.50 for 25 yards. Economy may be prac-
GENERAL SWEET-WATER TACKLE 139
ticed in this regard by using 50 yards of silk line
spliced to a length of cheaper but good linen line.
Nine-foot leaders should be used and these may be
made from three-foot lengths of heavy, medium and
light gut, or, where the fish run large, extra heavy,
heavy and medium gut. Nine-foot salmon leaders
may also be made from lengths of triple-twisted,
double-twisted and single gut. Use only the very
best gut, and test it.
The best salmon flies are: Silver doctor, black
fairy, Durham ranger, Jock Scott, silver gray, brown
fairy, dusty miller, Nicholson, black dose. Of these
the silver doctor and Jock Scott are the best. They
should be tied on No. 2 and 4 hooks. A few flies on
I and i-o hooks should be in the book for high water
and evening fishing. Double-hook flies are also used.
Salmon flies are not listed in the same way as trout
flies. Each salmon fly has its own price according to
the greater or less expense of tying it; for instance,
the silver doctor costs $6.50 a dozen, while the Jock
Scott is $7.00. Others range from $3.50 to $6.50
the dozen.
Leader-boxes and fly-books have been discussed in
the chapters on trout-fly-fishing. Small salmon may
properly and preferably be netted or beached; larger
fish must be gaffed. Experienced salmon anglers pre-
fer to use a gaff made by lashing a gaff-hook to a stout
handle. The gaff-hook may be procured at any good
tackle store. This saves, also, the trouble of packing
I40 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
a gaff into the woods. Gaffs, complete and very well-
made, with take-down handles, may also be had.
The present day tendency of anglers is very strongly
toward the use of light tackle. The fresh-water
angler who has followed the achieve-
Tackle for ments of sea anglers in the use of light
^^^%?^^^ tackle and marked their success with
and Others , , , ,
the tarpon, tuna, and other large salt-
water game fishes, logically concludes that even for
the largest fresh water fish it is not necessary or
sportsmanlike to use very heavy tackle. This, of
course, is exactly as it should be. The sporting quali-
ties of any game fish depend very largely upon the
tackle used. It is far more sport — and certainly far
more sportsmanlike — to land one good fish on light
tackle than a dozen on heavy. But extremely light
tackle is not advised for the beginner. Assuredly the
expert who kills his twenty-five pound mascalonge on
a little, five-ounce bait-casting rod, using a small, light
reel and line, deserves to be ranked among the elect.
With equal certainty the man of no experience who
tries this on may properly be ranked among the foolish.
As good a rod as any for mascalonge fishing, either
casting or trolling, is the Henshall casting rod above
described. A rod of this sort, if handled with average
skill, will answer all requirements. It should weigh
8 or 9 ounces, and should be fairly stiff. Any sturdy
bait-casting rod, not less than six feet in length —
steel rods are used to some extent — will do. An
GENERAL SWEET-WATER TACKLE 141
80 or 100-yard casting reel, E or F line, braided silk,
the latter size preferably because it will work better
in casting, and No. 4 and 6 trolling spoons, are suita-
ble. All of the bass casting baits mentioned in Chap-
ter 9, some of them made slightly larger and stronger,
are used in casting and trolling for mascalonge. The
mascalonge, in common with the pike and pickerel,
has an innate fondness for green and white, and the
fancy-back minnow, above described, is a very success-
ful one. A light steel-wire leader should always be
used. In this connection it should be said that gimp
leaders, for any sort of fishing, are not to be trusted.
They will smash without any previous warning at all
visible to the angler. A strong gaff must also form a
part of the outfit. A plan sometimes followed is to
shoot the fish through the head with a .22 pistol or
rifle. The advantage of this is that the fish is dead
when he comes into the boat — sometimes a very great
advantage.
For either pike or pickerel ordinary bass tackle may
properly be used, with the addition, as in the case of
the mascalonge, of a metal leader. For pike larger
spoons should be used than for pickerel, about the
same as for mascalonge.
Early in the spring lake trout may be taken on
ordinary fairly light trolling tackle,
^^^^ Trout trolling on the surface. With the ar-
Tackle.
rival of warm weather, however, these
fish seek the very deepest portions of the lake, and
142 FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT
then deep-trolling is the only practicable method.
Until within a few years the only way to deep-troll
for " lakers " was by using a long, strong hand-line,
a dipsey sinker averaging about a half-pound in weight
(the last on a short sinker-line attached to the main
line by a three-way swivel) and on this formidable
arrangement a gang consisting of three or more burrs,
or trebles, and a lip-hook was used; a large minnow
being used for bait.
All this has been changed, and very much for the
better, by the introduction of a line made of braided
copper wire which, by its own weight and without the
necessity of using sinkers, attains the proper depth.
This line is so extremely well and finely made — of
very fine strands of copper wire braided over a silk
core — that it can be used on a reel without the slight-
est trouble. Consequently, hand-lining for lake trout
is no longer necessary or excusable. For lake trout,
then, use an 8- or 9-ounce trolling rod, and 100 yards
of braided copper wire line. This line costs about
$2.00 for 50 yards. A special reel for use with this
sort of metal line is furnished by the dealers. Various
natural and artificial baits are used for lake trout, but,
in general, it may be said that artificial bait is not
over-successful with lakers. It is better to use the
natural minnow on a single hook or an archer spinner.
Deep-trolling may also be profitably done for bass and
pickerel when they are in deep water in the summer-
time.
INDEX
Bait-casting rod, 105; cost, 113; fittings, iii; length, 109;
materials, 106; number of joints, iii; recapitulation,
116; weight, 109.
Baits, artificial, 125.
Care of bait-casting line, 124; enameled line, 71; flies, 92;
fly-rod, 50; leaders, 78; single-action reel, 65; quad-
ruple reel, 122.
Casting, fly, 53; bait, 113.
Clothing, 100.
Color of leaders, 75.
Creel, 94.
Dry flies, 85.
Eight-strip fly-rod, 23.
Enameled line, 65.
Equipment, personal, 93; clothing, 100; creel, 94; line re-
leaser, 97; miscellaneous, 98; net, 95; repair kit, 97;
scales, 97; tackle box, 96; waders, loi.
Eyed-hooks, 87.
Eyed fly, attaching to leader, 88.
Ferrules, fly-rod, 32.
Fittings of the bait-casting rod, ill.
Fittings of the fly-rod, 29.
Fly-casting, 53.
Flies, bass, 135.
Flies, salmon, 139.
Flies, trout, 79; care of, 92; dry, 85; eyed-hook, 87; list
of, 89; hooks, 82; spoons, 126; styles, 83; parts of, 84.
Fly-rod, split-bamboo, 23; all-round rod, 44; care of, 50;
cost, 46; ferrules, 32; guides, 38; handgrasp, 34;
handle, 36; length, 41; number of joints, 29; qualities
144 INDEX
of, 19; recapitulation, 39; reel-seat, zi\ testing, 48;
weight, 41 ; windings, 39.
Fly-books and boxes, 92.
Guides for bait-casting rod, 112; for fly-rod, 38.
Handle of bait-casting rod, 113; of fly-rod, 36.
Handgrasp of fly-rod, 34
Hooks, fly, 82; eyed, 87.
Joints, number for fly-rod, 29.
Joints, number for bait-casting rod, iii.
Landing net, 95.
Leaders, 'J2\ attaching eyed fly to, 88; care of, 78; color,
75; how to tie, 76; quality, "jy, sizes, 74; testing, 74
Length of bait-casting rod, 109.
Length of fly rod, 41.
Line, bait-casting, 123; care of, 124; cost, 124; size, 123.
Line, enameled, 65; care of, 71; cost, 71; how made, 66;
level vs. taper, 68; reserve, ^2\ size, 67; testing, 70.
Line releaser, 97. '
Mascalonge, tackle, 140.
Materials, for bait-casting rod, 106; fly rod, 26; quad-
ruple reel, 119; single-action reel, 60.
Minnows, phantom, 126; wooden, 125.
Net, landing, 95.
Pickerel tackle, 141.
Pike tackle, 141.
Reel, single-action, 57; care of, 65; cost, 63; good reels,
(>2i\ how made, 59; materials, 60; position on rod, dy,
protecting band, 59; size, 6z.
Reel, quadruple, 117; care of, 122; cost, 122; how made,
118; materials, 119; position on rod, 121; size and
shape, 128.
Reel-seat, 2i7'
Repair kit, 97.
Rod, bait-casting, see bait-casting rod; fly, see fly-rod;
minnow casting, 137; materials, 2(i.
Salmon tackle, 137.
Scales, 97.
INDEX 145
Six-Strip rod, 23,
Split-bamboo, variations of, 23.
Spoons, trolling, 126; fly, 126.
Styles of trout flies, 83.
Tackle, bass bait-casting, 105; bass fly, 133; lake trout,
141 ; mascalonge, 140 ; pickerel, 141 ; pike, 141 ; salmon
fly» 139; still-fishing, 136; trout bait, 132; trout fly, 16;
trolling, 135.
Tackle box, 96.
Testing enameled line, 70; fly-rod, 48; leaders, 74.
Trolling spoons, 126.
Tying leaders, y6.
Waders, loi.
Weight of bait-casting rod, 109; fly rod, 41,
Windings for fly-rod, 39.
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