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HUNTING  AND  SPORT 


IN 


SOUTH  AFRICA 


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FIVE    YEAR 


toting  Adventures 


IN 


ERICA 


BEING 


AN  ACCOUNT  OF  SPORT  WITH  THE  LION,  ELEPHANT 

BUFFALO,  RHINOCEROS,  CAMELOPARD,  OSTRICH 

HIPPOPOTAMUS,  WILDEBEST,  KOODOO 

HYAENA,  $c,  $c. 


BY 


EOUALEYN  GOEDON  CUMMXNG,  Esq. 

OF  ALTYRE 


COMPLETE  POPULAR  EDITION 


LONDON:   SIMPKIN,  MARSHALL.  &  CO 
GLASGOW:   THOMAS  D.  MORISON 


INTRODUCTION. 


As  the  reader  who  purposes  to  follow  me  through  the  five  adventurous 
years  I  spent  in  the  untrodden  wilds  of  Southern  Africa  might  like  to 
know  something  of  my  previous  career,  I  shall  briefly  state  that  the 
early  portion  of  my  life  was  spent  in  the  County  of  Moray,  where  a 
love  of  natural  history  and  of  sport  early  engendered  itself,  and  became 
stronger  and  more  deeply  rooted  with  my  years.  Salmon  fishing  and 
roe-stalking  were  my  favourite  amusements;  and,  during  these  early 
wanderings  by  wood  and  stream,  the  strong  love  of  sport  and  admira- 
tion of  Nature  in  her  wildest  and  most  attractive  forms  became  with 
me  an  all-absorbing  feeling,  and  my  greatest  possible  enjoyment  was  to 
pass  whole  days  and  many  a  summer  night  in  solitude,  where,  undis- 
turbed, I  might  contemplate  the  silent  grandeur  of  the  forest  and  the 
ever-varying  beauty  of  the  scenes  around.  Long  before  I  proceeded  to 
Eton  I  took  pride  in  the  goodly  array  of  hunting  trophies  which  hung 
around  my  room. 

In  1839  I  sailed  for  India,  to  join  my  regiment,  the  4th  Madras  Light 
Cavalry.  Touching  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  I  had  an  opportunity 
of  hunting  several  of  the  smaller  antelopes,  and  obtained  a  foretaste  of 
the  splendid  sport  I  was  in  after  years  so  abundantly  to  enjoy.  In 
India  I  procured  a  great  number  of  specimens  of  natural  history,  and 
laid  the  foundation  of  a  collection  which  has  since  swelled  to  gigantic 
proportions.*  Finding  that  the  climate  did  not  agree  with  me,  I  retired 
from  the  service  and  returned  home,  where,  resuming  my  old  hunting 
habits,  I  was  enabled,  through  the  kindness  of  a  wide  circle  of  friends, 
to  follow  my  favourite  pursuit  of  deer-stalking  so  successfully  that  I 
speedily  found  myself  in  possession  of  a  fine  collection  of  select  heads 
from  most  of  the  Scottish  deer-forests.  Growing  weary,  however,  of 
hunting  in  a  country  where  the  game  was  strictly  preserved,  and  where 
the  continual  presence  of  keepers  and  foresters  took  away  half  the  charm 
of  the  chase,  and  longing  once  more  for  the  freedom  of  nature,  and  the 
life  of  the  wild  hunter — so  far  preferable  to  that  of  the  mere  sportsman — 
I  resolved  to  visit  the  rolling  prairies  and  rocky  mountains  of  the  Far 
West,  where  my  nature  would  find  congenial  sport  with  the  bison,  the 
wapiti,  and  the  elk.  With  this  view  I  obtained  a  commission  in  the 
Eoyal  Veteran  Newfoundland  Companies.  But  I  speedily  discovered 
that  the  prospect  of  getting  from  the  barrack-square  would  be  small,  and 
that  I  should  have  little  chance  of  playing  the  Nimrod  whilst  attached 

*  Which  may  now  be  seen  in  my  South  African  Museum  at  the  Chinese  Gallery 
in  London. 


INTRODUCTION. 


to  this  corps.  I  accordingly  effected  an  exchange  into  the  Cape  Eifle- 
men,  and  in  1843  found  myself  once  more  in  the  country  upon  whose 
frontiers  dwelt  those  vast  herds  of  game  which  had  so  often  fired  my 
imagination,  and  made  me  long  to  revisit  it. 

Immediately  upon  landing  I  marched  with  my  division  of  the  army 
of  occupation,  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Somerset,  into  the  country 
of  the  Amaponda  Caffres,  where  we  lay  for  some  time  under  canvas,  and 
where  our  principal  amusements  were  quail-shooting  and  throwing  the 
assegai.  Being  disappointed  in  my  expectations,  and  there  being  at 
that  time  no  prospect  of  fighting,  I  made  up  my  mind  to  sell  out  of  the 
army,  and  to  penetrate  into  the  interior  farther  than  the  foot  of  civilized 
man  had  yet  trodden — to  vast  regions  which  would  afford  abundant 
food  for  the  gratification  of  the  passion  of  my  youth, — the  collecting  of 
hunting  trophies  and  objects  of  interest  in  science  and  natural  history. 
And  in  this  I  ultimately  succeeded  to  my  heart's  desire. 

With  regard  to  my  African  adventures  the  following  pages  must 
speak  for  themselves.  Let  me  here  state,  however,  that  I  was  the  first 
to  penetrate  into  the  interior  of  the  Bamangwato  country,  and  that  my 
axe  and  spade  pioneered  the  way,  which  others  have  since  followed.  I 
should  have  pushed  still  farther  but  that  the  great  losses  I  experienced 
in  cattle  and  horses  prevented  me  from  so  doing. 

During  the  many  years  I  spent  in  the  wilderness,  my  waggon  was 
my  only  home.  Even  this  I  often  deserted ;  and  alone,  or  attended  only 
by  savages,  proceeded  on  distant  hunting  expeditions,  leaving  my  few 
followers  encamped  around  my  baggage.  Days  and  nights,  on  these 
occasions,  have  I  passed  in  my  solitary  hunting  hole,  near  some  drinking- 
place,  watching  the  majestic  carriage  of  the  lion,  the  sagacious  actions 
of  the  elephant,  and  the  curious  instincts  of  the  countless  varieties  of 
game  that  have  passed  .within  a  few  yards  of  me,  quite  unaware  of  the 
proximity  of  man.  Whatever  on  those  occasions  I  witnessed  worthy  of 
attention,  I  noted  in  my  journal  whilst  the  impression  was  yet  fresh  in 
my  memory — from  this  journal  the  following  work  is  almost  literally 
transcribed.  Written  under  such  circumstances,  the  reader  will  not 
look  for  the  graces  of  style.  The  hand,  wearied  all  day  with  grasping 
the  rifle,  is  not  the  best  suited  for  wielding  the  pen.  If  I  have  in 
simple  language  given  pleasure  to  the  sportsman,  or  added  one  page  to 
the  natural  history  of  Southern  Africa,  or  to  our  knowledge  of  its  tribes, 
I  shall  think  myself  amply  repaid  for  my  many  wanderings  and  watch- 
ings  in  a  wild  and  savage  land. 


Altyre,  June,  1850. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


vjii.xi.Jr  JL JliJti/    J..}  ...  ...  . ••  ...  ...  ...  ...  Lo 

Preparations  for  a  Hunting  Expedition — Cape  Traders — Travelling — 
Trader  at  a  Farm — Danger  of  a  Trader's  Life — Articles  for  Barter 
— Dissuasions  from  the  Enterprise — My  Outfit — Hunting  Rheebok 
— Wild  Flowers. 

v^xi-A-Jr  JL Jli tv  -LJL.,        ...  ...  . ..  ...  ...  ...  ...  All 

Mysteries  of  Inspanning — Cape  Waggon  and  its  Furniture — Depar- 
ture from  Grahamstown — My  head  Servant  leaves  me — Impass- 
able state  of  the  Roads — My  Waggon  in  a  fix — Change  of  Route 
— Singular  Instinct  of  the  Honey  bird. 

\jHJ\.JT  A. JiiSXi    JLXJ..,        ...  ...  ...  •••  ...  ...  ...  o Jj 

Fearful  Descent  of  De  Bruin's  Poort — District  lately  deserted  by 
Elephants — Noble  Forest-trees — The  Great  Fish  River — Cunning 
Boers — Burning  effects  of  the  Sun — The  Dutch  Noe's  Green  Tea 
Ointment — Skill  of  the  Hottentots  in  "Tapping  the  Admiral  " — 
Beautifully  Wooded  Country — The  Village  of  Cradock — South 
African  Climate  —  Countless  Herds  of  Springbok  —  Mynheer 
Pocheter — The  way  to  make  a  Friend  on  the  Theba  Flats — Hen- 
drick  Strydom — Hunting  for  Springbok — Extraordinary  Migra- 
tions of  these  Antelopes. 

CHAPTER  IV.,     ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         44 

A  Bustard  shot — Flight  of  Locusts — Quagga  Shooting  in  the  Dark — 
Curious  Mistake  —  Ostriches  —  A  Sportsman  napping  —  Leave 
Strydom's  Residence  in  quest  of  Wildebeests — Wildebeest  Shoot- 
ing— Meeting  with  a  Brother  Officer — Proceed  to  Colesberg — 
Additions  to  Equipments. 

v^XlxxJT  J_  XjJAj       **]  ***  *  *  •  •  •"•  •  *  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •••  O  Jj 

Departure  from  Colesberg — Jaging  Springbok — Vast  Herds  of  Game 
— Swarms  of  Flies — Oology — A  Nomad  Boer's  Encampment — 
Anecdote  of  the  Gemsbok — Cobus  rides  down  a  splendid  old  Bull 
Gemsbok — A  Night  in  the  Desert — Paterson  arrives — Bushmen 
— Their  extraordinary  Raids  across  the  Desert. 

CHAPTER  VI.,     ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         61 

Hard  Chase  of  an  Oryx — A  Brindled  Gnoo  reduces  himself  to  a  "dead 
lock,"  and  is  taken — Paterson  slays  a  Gemsbok  and  a  Bull  Wilde- 
beest— He  leaves  for  Colesberg — Ostrich-eggs — Novel  method  of 
carrying  them — Anecdotes  of  the  Ostrich — Affray  with  a  Porcu- 
pine— He  proves  a  rough  Rider  for  my  Horse — Narrow  Escape 
from  the  Thrust  of  a  dying  Oryx — The  grateful  Water-root — - 
Troops  of  Springboks  cover  the  face  of  the  land — Their  Migra- 
tions— The  finest  shot  at  my  leisure — Beer  Vley. 


8  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  VIL, 69 

Leave  Beer  Vley — A  Bushboy  captured  and  enlisted  as  a  Follower — 
Famous  Sport  with  Wildebeest  and  Quaggas  from  a  Hunting-hole 
— Water  fails,  and  we  march  to  the  Great  Orange  River — 
Beautiful  Appearance  of  the  River — Stink  Vonteyn,  a  famous 
sporting  quarter — An  Ostrich's  Nest — Bold  Mountain  Ranges — 
The  Griqua  Tribe,  their  Manners  and  Customs — An  ancient 
Mimosa  Forest — Residence  of  a  Bushman — Successful  Chase  of  a 
noble  Bull  Oryx. 

CHAPTER  VIII., 79 

We  leave  Stink  Vonteyn  and  reach  the  Vaal  River — Wait-a-bit 
Thorns — Chase  and  kill  a  Buck  Koodoo,  and  bivouac  on  the 
ground — Cobus  and  Jacob  abscond — Roan  Antelope — We  recross 
the  Vaal  River — Griqua  Encampment — Stink  Vonteyn  again — 
A  Flight  of  Locusts — A  Saltpan — Salubrious  Climate — Boers 
attempt  to  carry  off  Ruyter — A  Cameeldorn  Forest — A  Brindled 
Gnoo  bayed  by  Wild  Dogs — Habits  of  the  latter. 

CHAPTER  IX.,     ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         89 

The  Riet  River — Nomad  Boer  Encampments — Surly  Reception  at  a 
Boer's  Farm — Lions  slain  by  the  Boers — Cowardice  of  the  Boers 
in  Lion-hunting  —  Rumours  of  War  between  the  Boers  and 
Griquas — The  Mirage  of  the  Plains — Habits  of  the  Blesbok — a 
knowing  old  Hog — A  Snake  under  my  Pillow — A  Troop  of  Wild 
Dogs  come  upon  me  at  night  in  my  Shooting-hole — The  Roar  of 
Lions — Curious  Facts  concerning  them. 

CrlAx  JLE-tii  X. j       ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...        102 

Boer  Encampment — A  Night  in  a  Storm — A  Fancy  Costume—  Fearful 
Encounter  with  a  Lioness — ei  Colesberg  "  dreadfully  mangled — 
Cowardice  of  Hottentots — We  march  back  to  Colesberg — Danger 
of  being  plundered  by  the  Rebel  Boers — Arrival  at  Colesberg — 
The  Troops  march  against  the  Boers — The  Battle  of  Schwart 
Coppice — Start  for  the  distant  Land  of  Elephants — The  Hotten- 
tots make  free  with  my  Brandy,  and  mutiny — Leopards — 
Kuruman — Mr.  Moffat,  the  good  Missionary — Roasted  Locusts. 

\j xlixir  J. -Hi-tC  XI. }       ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...         llo 

Motito — The  Bechuana  Tribes — The  mysterious  great  inland  Lake 
— Blesbok  and  Wildebeest  abundant — Park-like  Country — We 
arrive  at  the  beautiful  Vale  of  Bakatla — Dr.  Livingstone  the 
Missionary — Native  Fashions  at  Church — Determine  to  push  on 
to  Bamangwato — The  Natives  follow  me  for  Venison — Great 
Variety  of  Game — A  dangerous  Fight  with  a  herd  of  Buffaloes, 
two  of  which  are  slain — A  Colony  of  Baboons — A  Rhinoceros 
chases  me  round  a  Bush — Habits  of  the  Beast — A  noble  Eland 
killed — An  impromptu  Steak— Slay  a  Rhinoceros,  and  lose  my 
way  in  the  Forest. 

CHAPTER  XII, 126 

My  Hottentots  object  to  advance  farther  into  the  Interior — A  Boar 
Hunt — We  march  through  a  charming  Country — The  Mountain 
Pass  of  Sesetabie — A  Lion  and  Lioness  inspect  my  Cattle,  and 
the  Lion  pays  for  peeping — Hungry  Hysenas  sup  upon  the  Cattle 
Furniture — The  Camelopard — Description  of  its  Habits — Booby, 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


a  Bechuana  Kraal — Gun    Medicine — Disastrous    Finale  to  an 
Incantation — Native  Conspiracy  to  prevent  my  farther  Progress. 

CHAPTER  XIII.j  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...       loo 

The  Guides  try  to  mislead  me — The  Cattle  and  Horses  dying  from 
Thirst — Search  for  Water — Melancholy  Anticipations — Directed 
to  a  Pool  by  the  flight  of  Birds — Chase  and  kill  a  Giraffe — Wan- 
dering Bechuanas  point  out  my  right  Course — Miserable  Condi- 
tion of  the  Natives — Game  Pitfalls — Mimosa  Grove  smashed  by 
Elephants — A  Rhinoceros  charges  me — Abundance  of  large  Game 
— Lost  in  the  Forest. 

CHAPTER  XI v.,  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...       1 46 

The  Bamangwato  Mountains — The  Elephants'  Fountain — A  troop  of 
colossal  Giraffes — Elephants  drinking  by  Night — Habits  of  the 
African  Elephant — Elephant  Hunt — A  Bull  shot  after  a  dangerous 
Encounter — Cutting  out  the  Tusks — Extraordinary  Rocks — 
Mountain-retreat  of  Sicomy,  King  of  Bamangwato — His  Cunning 
— Barter  Muskets  for  Ivory — His  Majesty's  curious  Gun-practice 
— Trading  for  Native  Weapons. 

CHAPTER  XV.,    ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...       161 

Take  leave  of  Sicomy — Digging  for  Water — The  Elephants'  Foun- 
tain again — A  wounded  Roan  Antelope  bays  in  the  Water,  and 
kills  my  Dogs  right  and  left — Sicomy's  Camp  again — We  march 
through  a  beautiful  Valley — Curious  Instinct  of  the  Rhinoceros- 
bird — A  mighty  Bull  Elephant  shot  after  a  hard  Conflict — 
Mutchuisho's  Attentions  more  charitable  than  pleasant — Cutting 
up  an  Elephant — A  strange  Scene — Baking  the  Flesh — Primitive 
Tobacco-pipes — Biltongue  Festoons. 

CHAPTER  XVL, 175 

Elephant  spooring  with  the  Natives — The  Mystic  Dice — Hunt  in  a 
Wait-a-bit  Thorn  Cover — Romantic  Gorge  in  the  Mountains — 
Sabie — Ancient  Elephant  Path — Ludicrous  Native  Signal — A 
noble  Bull  Elephant  <slain — Isaac,  my  Interpreter,  dismissed — 
A  Lioness  bagged  at  one  shot — Drunkenness  and  Disorder  in 
Camp — My  manner  of  taking  the  Field  after  the  larger  Game — 
Sicomy's  Followers  desert  me. 

CHAPTER  XVII, ...         184 

We  march  from  Sabie — Track  along  a  River-bed — The  dry  Grass  on 
Fire  for  miles — Glorious  Elephant-shooting — Cowardice  of  my 
After-rider — Strange  circumstance  at  the  Death  of  a  Bull  Elephant 
— A  Sable  Antelope — Tete-a-tete  with  a  disabled  Elephant — The 
Klipspringer  Antelope — A  pack  of  Wild  Dogs  capture  and  kill 
a  Koodoo — The  coming  of  Summer — Vast  numbers  of  Birds  visit- 
ing the  Fountains — My  trusty  two-grooved  Rifle  bursts — My 
Snuffers,  Spoons,  and  Candlesticks  melted  for  Bullets — Elephants 
taking  a  Douche  Bath — Two  of  them  slain — Yet  more  Elephants 
— My  Horse  Colesberg  dies  of  the  African  Distemper — Virulence 
of  the  Scourge. 

CHAPTER  XV1IL,  ...         194 

Turn  my  Waggons  towards  the  Colony — A  Troop  of  Elephants  in 
Indian  File — Splendid  Sport  amongst  them — Two  of  them  break 
their  Tusks  in  falling — The  Rainy  Season  commences — Erection 


10  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

of  a  Bothy — The  gigantic  Nwana-tree — Sicomy's  Mountain  Kraal 
— Four  of  his  Subjects  become  my  Servants — Corriebely — 
The  Natives  astonished  by  my  finding  a  Mine  of  Lead — Elephant- 
shooting — Leave  the  land,  of  Elephants — Bootlonamy — Terrific 
Thunderstorm. 

CHAPTER  XIX.,  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...      203 

All  my  Colonial  Servants  desert  me — Pursue  them  in  vain — Both 
Waggons  get  disabled — Melancholy  Anticipations — Cut  a  Path 
through  the  Forest — A  Sandy  Desert — Cattle  dying  for  want  of 
Water — Troubles  surmounted — Pallahs  and  Koodoos — A  Lion 
and  Leopard  visit  the  Camp  at  Midnight — Another  horse  dies 
of  Distemper — We  reach  Booby — One  of  the  Axletrees  breaks — 
The  Bakatlas  assist  me — The  Baggage-waggon  upset  in  a  Biver 
— The  Distemper  kills  more  Horses — Lions  roaring — Arrive  at 
Dr.  Livingstone's — March  upon  Chouaney — The  Ngotwani — A 
Herd  of  Buffaloes  among  the  Reeds. 

\j xlixJ;  x JlLiJzC  u\.j\.ti     ...  ...  ...  ...  =..  ...  ...         Z\o 

Arrive  at  Sichely's  Kraal — Description  of  that  Chief — His  Wives 
— The  Rain-makers — My  Gun  Medicine — Bakatla — A  Kraal 
struck  by  Lightning — Beach  Mr.  Moffat's  Station  at  Kuruman 
—Daring  Robberies  of  the  Bushmen — Campbellsdorp — Discover 
my  runaway  Hottentots — We  cross  the  Vaal — The  Inmates  of  a 
Farm  terrified  b}T  my  wild  Appearance — Colesberg  and  Grahams- 
town — English  Hounds  in  Africa. 

CHAPTER  XXL,  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...       220 

Set  out  again  for  the  Far  Interior — Fort  Beaufort — Purchase  fresh 
Steeds  and  Oxen — My  old  servant  Corollus  rejoins  me — Elephant 
Fountain  once  more — Hunt  Elephants — Corriebely — Obliged  to 
act  very  decidedly  with  Sicomy — Horses  and  Oxen  taken  in 
Pits — Two  Dogs  killed  by  a  Leopard — A  file  of  Bakalahari 
Women  carrying  water  to  the  Desert — A  sleeping  Rhinoceros 
shot — Hunting  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lotlokane  and  Letlochee 
— The  Natives  kill  an  Elephant — A  grim  Lion  slain — Rheumatic 
Fever  attacks  me — Leave  Bamangwato  Country — The  Game 
disturbed  by  Natives — Soobie — Watch  nightly  for  Game  from 
a  place  of  Ambush — Vanquish  a  noble  Lioness. 

CHAPTER  XXII., 232 

A  Lion  shot  from  my  Watching-hole  at  Midnight— Six  Lions  drink 
close  beside  me — A  Lioness  slain — A  Rhinoceros  bites  the  dust 
— Moselakose  Fountain — My  Shooting-hole  surrounded  with 
Game— Pallahs,  Sassaybys,  Zebras,  etc. — A  Rhoode-Rheebok 
shot — Extraordinary  Circumstance — My  fiftieth  Elephant  bagged 
— Intei-esting  Fountains  on  the  Hills — Leave  my  Waggons  for  the 
Hills — Struggle  with  a  Boa  Constrictor — Lions  too  numerous  to 
be  agreeable — Five  Rhinoceroses  shot  as  they  came  to  drink — A 
Venomous  Snake. 

CHAPTER  XXIIL,  242 

Sichely's  Kraal  again — The  Ngotwani — Chase  and  kill  a  waterbuck 
— A  portion  of  the  Cattle  recovered— A  Leopard  bayed  by  my 
Dogs  and  slain — Buffalo-shooting  beside  the  Ngotwani — A  Lion 
feeds  on  the  Carcase — My  Horse  knocked  down  by  the  King 
of  Brutes — Meet  a  grim  Lion  face  to  face  at  midnight  1 — He 


CONTENTS.  11 


PAGE 


sheers  off — These  Animals  unpleasantly  bold — An  amusing  Chase 
with  a  Buffalo — Interesting  Stalk  in  rocky  ground — Leave  my 
hunting-ground  and  encamp  on  Vaal  River — Great  Herds — In 
taking  the  Drift  a  Waggon  sticks  fast  in  the  middle  of  the  River 
— Great  fear  of  losing  all  my  Property — Rescue  of  the  Waggon 
— Colesberg — A  Farmer's  Waggon  capsized  in  the  Fish  River 
— Visit  Strydom's  farm  and  find  it  desolate — Arrival  at  Grahams- 
town. 

CHAPTER  XXIV.,  251 

Start  on  another  Elephant-shooting  Expedition — The  Hart  River — 
Numerous  pack  of  Wild  Dogs — Mahura,  Chief  of  the  Batlapis — 
Rumours  of  Wars-— The  Meritsane — Lotlokane — Encounter  with 
two  Lions  on  the  Molopo — Chouaney — A  tremendous  Fight  with 
a  Buffalo — The  River  Limpopo — Huge  Crocodiles — A  splendid 
Hippopotamus  falls  to  my  Rifle — Immense  Herds  of  Buffaloes 
crossing  the  River — The  Serolomootlooque  Antelope  unknown  to 
Naturalists — A  herd  of  Hippopotami — Fine  Sport  beside  the 
.    River. 

CHAPTER  XXV.,...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...       250 

We  cross  the  Limpopo — Rash  Encounter  with  a  Hippopotamus — 
Remarkable  dome-like  Rock — Two  Serolomootlooques  shot — 
Hollow  Trees  containing  Honey — Gigantic  Ant-hills — Hunting 
across  the  Limpopo — Another  Boa  Constrictor — A  Visit  from 
Seleka — A  Sea-cow  shot,  which  sinks — Resurrection  of  the  Beast 
— Splendid  Hippopotamus-shooting. 

CHAPTER  XXVL,  ,       267 

Seleka's  Town  among  the  Rocks — Elephant-hunting  with  Seleka  and 
his  Men — Trading  with  Seleka — A  Lion  and  Lioness  with  their 
Cubs — An  immense  Herd  of  Hippopotami — Nine  of  them  killed 
— Trap  for  inflicting  poisoned  Wounds  on  Sea-cows — We  cross 
the  Limpopo,  and  a  Waggon  sticks  in  the  River — We  trek  down 
the  Stream — Two  of  my  best  Horses  killed  and  eaten  by  Lions 
— The  Chief  of  the  Bamalette  visits  me — Audacity  of  the  Lions 
— A  Horse  killed  in  a  Pitfall — A  Chief  flogged  for  catchiDg  and 
consuming  a  Horse. 

CHAPTER  XXVIL,         274 

We  trek  down  the  Limpopo — Abundance  of  Sea-cows — The  Lotsane 
River — An  immense  Herd  of  Elephants — Combat  with  a  first-rate 
old  Bull — Rheumatic  Fever  attacks  me,  which  determines  our 
course  homewards — Elephants  smashing  Forest-trees— A  Lion 
carries  off  one  of  my  men  from  the  Fireside — The  Beast  occupied 
consuming  him  all  night — The  man-eating  Lion  slain — Three 
Hippopotami  shot — One  of  the  Dogs  eaten  by  a  Crocodile — The 
fatal  "Tsetse"  fly— The  Fountain  of  Seboono— An  old  Bull- 
Elephant  held  in  check  without  Gun  or  Dogs. 

CHAPTER  XXVIIL,        285 

Paapaa  Fountain — Watch  by  Moonlight  from  a  Shooting-hole — 
Remarkable  Sport  with  Elephants — Four  bagged  and  eight 
mortally  wounded  in  one  night — Elephant-hunting  with  Horse 
and  Dogs  by  Moonlight — A  Troop  of  Lions — The  Vultures  with 
the  shadowy  Wings — Another  Dog  snapped  up  by  a  Crocodile 
— The  Skeleton  of  an  Elephant  shot  by  me  discovered — The 
Tusks  being  gone,  strong  measures  are  adopted  for  their  re- 
covery. 


12  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

CHAPjlEIv  .X.XI.X..,  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...       Jiuo 

We  march  up  the  Limpopo — The  Guapa  Mountains — Immense  variety 
of  Game — Stalk  and  shoot  two  Sable  Antelopes — Several  Hounds 
lost — Romantic  Eavine  in  the  Guapa  Mountains — My  Forest 
Home — Buck  Koodoos — Stalking  Sable  Antelopes — Two  of  my 
Horses  die  from  Tsetse — Continue  our  March — Countless  Herds 
of  Game. 

CHAPTER  XXX., 304 

Leave  the  Potaquaine  Country —Absurd  Ceremony — My  Cattle  fail 
me — Send  to  the  Missionary  Station  for  Aid — Encamp  near  the 
Limpopo — Indescribable  Fish — A  young  Secretary — Nearly  all 
my  Oxen  die — Assistance  arrives  from  Mr.  Livingstone — We 
reach  the  Residence  of  Sichely — A  Hunter's  Monument — We  con- 
tinue our  March  through  a  beautiful  Country — An  Adventure 
with  two  savage  Lionesses — A  violent  Tempest — Mahura — Baka- 
lahari  driving  Game  towards  their  Pitfalls — We  cross  the  Orange 
River  and  reach  Colesberg. 

CHAPTEE  XXXI.,  ...         313 

Start  on  my  fifth  and  last  Expedition  into  the  Interior — Mr,  Orpen 
accompanies  me — Hurried  March — Extraordinary  Herd  of  Bles- 
boks — The  Hart  River — Cattle  attacked  with  Hoof  Sickness — 
Three  Lionesses  fearfully  mangle  my  pack  of  Dogs — Lion-hunts 
— Hyaenas  devour  my  Camp-stools — Meritsane — Six  Buffaloes  shot 
— Another  Lion-hunt — Glorious  Chase  with  Elands — Sichelv's 
Kraal — We  cross  the  Limpopo — A  Lion  attacks  my  Kraal  and 
kills  an  Ox— A  Field  of  Battle— Seboono— My  hundredth  Ele- 
phant ! — We  march  down  the  Limpopo  and  hunt  Hippopotami 
Attacked  by  Rheumatic  Fever — Mr.  Orpen  nearly  killed  by  a 
Leopard. 

CHAPTER  XXXII.,  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...       328 

Mr.  Orphen  and  myself  in  a  helpless  condition — We  leave  the  low- 
lying  Limpopo  for  the  Mountains — Trading  with  Seleka — Cere- 
mony to  impart  the  power  of  successful  Shooting — March  to  the 
Ngotwani  and  retrace  our  steps  to  the  Limpopo — Enormous  Herds 
of  Buffaloes — An  exciting  Lion-hunt — Three  of  my  Dogs  killed — 
The  noble  Beast  takes  the  water,  followed  by  a  Dog  and  a 
Crocodile — A  bold  Mountain-range — Abundance  of  Game — A 
brilliant  Lion-hunt — Two  killed  out  of  a  troop  of  four — Rhino- 
ceros-hunting— Leave  the  Mariqua  River — Sublime  Scenery — 
Another  Lion-Hunt — A  Buffalo  rips  up  my  After-rider's  Horse — 
Camelopard-Chase — Sudden  encounter  with  two  huge  Lions — 
Arrival  at  Sichely 's  Kraal. 

CHAPTER  XXXIII,        340 

The  Pass  of  God — Hunt  Sable  and  Roan  Antelope — Sesetabie — My 
Cattle-losses  in  five  Expeditions — My  Cattle  desperate  for  want 
of  Water — Trading  with  Mahura — Inspanning  young  Oxen — 
We  cross  the  "Vaal  River — The  Country  densely  covered  with 
Game  —  An  Ostrich's  Nest  —  Bloem  Vonteyn  —  Multitudes  of 
Antelope  Skeletons  cover  the  Plains — The  Great  Orange  River 
— We  are  detained  by  the  Flood — Twenty-three  Men  drowned 
in  attempting  to  cross — We  have  to  take  the  Waggons  to  pieces 
— Arrival  at  Colesberg — Determine  to  revisit  Old  England  and 
transport  my  collection  of  Trophies  thither. 


CHAP    I 


FIVE    YEARS' 

HUNTING  AND   SPORTING 
ADVENTURES  IE  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Preparations  for  a  Hunting  Expedition — Cape  Traders — Travelling — Trader  at  a 
Farm — Dangers  of  a  Trader's  Life — Articles  for  Barter — Dissuasions  from  the 
Enterprise — My  Outfit — Hunting  Rheebok — Wild  Flowers. 

Having  resolved  to  make  a  hunting  expedition  into  the  interior  of 
Southern  Africa,  my  first  object  was  to  seek  out  some  experienced  per- 
son, able  to  give  me  the  necessary  information  as  to  what  purchases  I 
should  require  to  make  in  the  way  of  waggons  and  oxen,  and  as  to  my 
outfit  in  general,  and  I  accordingly  pitched  upon  an  individual  of  the 
name  of  Murphy,  a  trader  in  the  interior,  who,  I  had  reason  to  believe, 
was  better  acquainted  than  any  other  person  in  Grahamstown  with  the 
frontiers  of  the  colony,  and  the  adjoining  territories  of  the  Griqua  and 
Bechuana  tribes,  situated  beyond  the  Great  Orange  River.  With  this 
person  I  had  already  had  the  pleasure  of  becoming  acquainted  during 
the  short  time  I  was  quartered  in  Grahamstown  in  the  month  of  July, 
having  been  introduced  to  him  by  another  -trader,  a  man  from  my  own 
land  of  Moray,  famous  among  the  Dutch  Boers  about  and  beyond  the 
frontiers.  This  man's  name  was  Andrew  Thompson,  of  Forres,  one  of 
three  brothers,  all  of  whom  followed  the  same  adventurous  line  of  life, 
and  were  as  steady,  hard-working,  and  determined  young  men  as  might 
be  met  with  throughout  the  colony. 

As,  in  the  course  of  the  following  pages,  I  may  have  occasion  to  allude 
to  these  traders,  and  others  of  a  similar  avocation,  it  will  perhaps  be  as 
well  to  give  the  reader  a  sketch  of  the  manner  in  which  their  occupation 
is  conducted.  Each  trader  is  supposed  to  be  the  proprietor  of  one  or 
two  ox-waggons.  These  they  "  load  up,"  from  the  large  stores  of  the 
merchants  in  Grahamstown  and  Port  Elizabeth,  with  every  species  of 
merchandise  which  the  far-dwelling  isolated  Dutch  Boers  are  likely  to 
require.  So  supplied,  they  set  out  on  their  long  journey,  which  usually 
occupies  from  six  to  eight  months  ;  at  the  end  of  which  they  return  to 
the  colony,  enriched  with  immense  droves  of  sleek  oxen  and  fat  wethers, 
selected  from  the  numerous  herds  and  flocks  of  the  pastoral  dwellers  in 
the  interior.     The  waggons  of  a  trader  generally  contain  every  requisite 


14     HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

for  a  farmer's  establishment ;  groceries,  hardware,  bales  of  cloth  and 
canvas,  haberdashery,  saddlery,  crockery — in  short,  everything,  from  an 
awl  for  the  Boer  to  mend  his  "  feldtschoens  "  or  country  shoes,  to  a  roll 
of  cherry-coloured  or  sky-blue  riband  to  tie  up  the  bonny  brown  locks 
of  his  fair  daughters,  whose  beauty,  like  that  of  Skye  terriers,  I  fear,  in 
many  cases,  consists  in  their  ugliness.  They,  however,  sadly  lack  the 
"  d6gagee  "  appearance  of  the  Skye  terrier,  as  their  general  air  and  gait 
might  be  more  aptly  likened  to  a  yard  of  pump-water. 

As  the  trader  advances  up  the  country  and  effects  exchanges,  he  leaves 
the  cattle  or  sheep  which  he  has  bartered,  in  charge  of  their  former 
master,  picking  them  up  on  his  return  southward.  When  all  his  goods 
are  disposed  of,  he  generally  winds  up  his  barter  by  exchanging  the 
waggon  or  waggons  which  bore  them  for  cash  or  oxen,  or  both,  and  then, 
purchasing  a  horse,  he  returns  in  light  marching  order  to  the  colony. 

The  price  which  a  trader  gives  for  a  waggon  is  usually  from  4=01.  to 
60/.,  and  in  war  times  often  a  thousand  rix  dollars,  or  75/.  The  number 
of  oxen  which  he  usually  obtains  for  it  at  the  close  of  his  journey  is 
from  forty  to  fifty,  and  these  he  is  supposed  to  select  himself.  The 
value  of  the  waggon  is  partly  dependent  on  the  character  of  the  tent. 
Tents  are  of  two  kinds ;  the  one  being  coarsely  yet  strongly  constructed 
of  green  boughs  fitting  into  iron  staples  along  the  sides  of  the  waggon, 
and  lashed  together  with  strips  of  green  hide  so  as  to  form  a  succession 
of  arches  overhead.  These  are  kept  in  their  position  by  means  of  long 
straight  wands  laid  all  along  the  outside  of  the  arches,  the  whole  frame- 
work being  very  strongly  secured  by  the  aforementioned  strips  of  green 
hide.  On  the  top  of  this  are  placed  coarse  Kaffir  mats  made  of  reeds, 
which  act  as  a  Scotchman  (to  use  a  seafaring  phrase),  to  keep  the  waggon- 
sail,  which  is  of  stout  canvas,  from  chafing.  The  other  variety  of  tent 
is  of  a  less  homely  build,  and  is  termed  by  the  colonists  a  cap-tent 
waggon.  It  requires  the  hand  of  a  skilful  waggon-builder,  and  is  much 
more  elaborately  finished,  the  wood  which  supports  and  composes  the 
tent  being  all  neatly  sawed  and  planed,  and  fastened  together  with  iron 
rivets. 

This  description  of  waggon  is  preferred  by  the  aristocracy  among  the 
Boers,  as  presenting  a  more  distingue  appearance,  when  they  drive  their 
f  raus  and  children  on  a  round  of  visits,  which  they  are  constantly  doing  ; 
or  when  flocking  to  the  "  Nachmal,"  or  communion,  which  happens  three 
or  four  times  in  the  year.  The  former,  or  common  wand  tent,  however, 
possesses  a  great  advantage  over  the  cap-tent,  inasmuch  as,  in  the  first 
place,  it  is  cheaper  by  10/.,  and  secondly,  if  broken  in  a  capsize,  which 
in  Cape  travelling  is  an  affair  of  common  occurrence,  it  is  easily  repaired 
on  the  spot ;  whereas  the  cap-tent  waggon,  if  once  upset,  is  irretrievably 
ruined. 

When  a  trader  arrives  on  a  Boer's  farm,  he  halts  and  walks  up  to  the 
door  to  inquire  where  he  is  to  "  outspan,"  or  unyoke  the  oxen,  and  also 
in  what  direction  the  oxen  are  to  be  driven  to  graze.  At  the  door  he  is 
met  by  the  baas,  or  master,  generally  pipe  in  mouth,  who,  cordially 
greeting  him  with  one  hand,  raises  his  hat  from  his  head  with  the  other. 
The  Boers  lay  great  stress  on  this  piece  of  etiquette,  which  has  to  be 
gone  through  with  a  whole  string  of  juvenile  Boers  following  in  the  rear, 


CAPE  TRADERS.  15 

each  encased  in  a  very  roomy  pair  of  inexpressibles,  and  crowned  with 
an  immense  broad  rimmed  tile,  nearly  half  the  size  of  its  wearer.  Per- 
mission to  outspan  being  obtained,  and  a  few  complimentary  speeches 
interchanged,  the  trader  inquires  of  the  Boer  if  he  has  any  fat  oxen  to 
handle  or  barter,  to  which  the  Boer  either  at  once  replies  in  the  negative, 
or  more  commonly  says, 

"  I  do  not  know.  What  have  you  got  on  your  waggon  % "  The 
trader  answers, 

"  I  have  got  a  little  of  everything,  and  all  of  the  very  best  quality, 
and  you  shall  have  anything  you  require  as  low  as  a  trader  can  possibly 
sell  it.  I  shall  presently  unload  a  little  for  your  inspection."  The  Boer 
politely  says, 

"  No,  no,  mynheer,  you  must  not  onload ;  it  would  grieve  me  that 
mynheer  should  exert  himself  so  much  :  "  to  which  the  trader  replies, 

"It  is  no  trouble  ;  we  are  accustomed  to  do  it,  and  it  is  our  business." 

The  trader  then  instructs  his  knecht,  or  head  servant,  to  make  a 
parade  of  the  goods,  and  he  then  accompanies  the  Boer  into  the  house, 
where  dinner  will  shortly  make  its  appearance,  to  which  the  Boer  in- 
variably, in  the  most  hospitable  manner,  makes  every  white  stranger 
welcome.  Here,  if  the  trader  is  wide  awake  to  his  own  interest,  he  will 
pay  marked  attention  to  the  Noe  or  frau,  as  no  bargain  or  transaction 
of  any  nature  can  be  ratified  with  a  Dutchman  without  her  full  concur- 
rence and  approval.  The  Dutch  are  particularly  cleanly  in  their 
establishments  and  cooking,  and  moreover  possess  a  very  fair  notion  of 
the  culinary  art,  their  tables  in  general  being  graced  with  several  very 
excellent  and  substantial  dishes.  When  dinner  is  over,  all  hands  resort 
to  the  waggon  and  overhaul  the  merchandise,  where  it  is  ten  to  one  but 
the  Noe  will  find  about  fifty  different  articles  which  she  will  prevail 
upon  her  husband  to  believe  indispensible  in  the  private  economy  of  his 
establishment.  Thus  when  "  handling "  once  begins,  it  often  goes  on 
briskly,  and  from  a  Boer  who  at  the  outset  declared  himself  indepen- 
dent of  the  trader's  supplies,  as  many  as  two  or  three,  or  even  half  a 
dozen,  fat  oxen  may  be  obtained. 

As  the  trader  knows  well  from  past  experience  that  the  Boer  will  be 
sure  to  endeavour  to  abate  his  prices,  he  makes. a  point  of  asking  a  little 
more  than  he  intends  to  take,  so  as  to  be  able  to  give  in  to  the  Boer's 
importunities,  who,  with  a  sly  wink  at  his  wife,  congratulates  himself  on 
his  shrewdness,  and  flatters  himself  that  he  has  run  a  hard  bargain. 

When  the  trader  has  collected  all  his  cattle,  he  drives  them  by 
steady  marches,  of  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  in  the  twenty-four 
hours,  which  are  performed  chiefly  during  the  night,  to  Grahamstown 
or  Beaufort,  where  he  disposes  of  them  to  butchers.  At  the  former 
place  they  are  purchased  for  the  use  of  the  town,  and  by  the  Govern- 
ment contractors  for  the  supply  of  the  troops.  At  Beaufort,  which  is 
on  the  high  road  to  Cape  Town,  they  are  purchased  for  the  supply  of 
the  Cape  Town  market.  The  payments  for  the  cattle  are  seldom,  if 
ever,  made  in  hard  cash,  the  poor  trader  having  to  content  himself  with 
approved  bills,  drawn  at  six  and  nine  months,  which  in  too  many  cases 
are  never  honoured,  the  defaulter  being  found  either  bankrupt,  or  to 
have  bolted  for  England  or  California. 


16    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

The  life  of  a  trader  is  hard  and  harrassing,  and  he  is  often  liable  to 
very  heavy  losses  by  deaths  from  severe  drought,  distempers,  and  other 
causes ;  also  from  the  chances  of  war,  oxen  straying  and  being  found  no 
more,  overstocked  markets,  and  non-payments  as  above,  besides  the 
danger  to  which  he  is  exposed  from  the  attacks  of  wild  beasts.  During 
the  time  that  he  is  engaged  in  driving  his  oxen,  his  rest  is  necessarily 
broken  and  disturbed,  and,  being  compelled  to  watch  his  cattle  every 
hour  of  the  night,  in  all  weathers,  he  is  obliged  always  to  have  his 
clothes  on,  and  to  sleep  when  he  can,  after  the  manner  of  sea-captains  in 
bad  weather,  who  hang  their  nose  on  to  a  ratlin,  and  so  take  a  nap.  As 
an  instance  of  the  injury  from  chances  of  war,  I  may  here  allude  to  the 
severe  losses  sustained  by  my  friend  Mr.  Peter  Thompson,  who,  during 
the  war  which  ravaged  the  colony  in  the  years  1846  and  1847,  was  re- 
turning to  Grahamstown  with  a  large  herd  of  some  hundred  fine  oxen, 
the  well-earned  proceeds  of  a  laborious  and  toilsome  expedition,  when  he 
was  attacked  in  De  Bruin's  Poort,  a  rugged  and  densely-wooded  ravine, 
within  one  march  of  Grahamstown,  by  a  band  of  the  marauding 
Amaponda  Kaffirs,  armed  with  guns  and  assagais,  who  swept  off  the 
whole  of  his  drove,  he  himself  barely  escaping  with  his  life. 

In  years  when  the  prices  of  cattle  are  low,  these  traders  occasionally 
vary  their  line  of  march,  and,  forsaking  the  Boers  for  a  season,  they 
load  up  a  suitable  cargo,  and  direct  their  course  for  the  Bechuana  tribes, 
from  whom  they  obtain  ivory,  karosses  (skin  cloaks),  and  ostrich- 
feathers,  along  with  various  curiosities,  for  which  they  obtain  a  ready 
sale  in  the  Grahamstown  market,  where  good  ivory  averages  from  4s.  to 
4s.  6d.  per  pound.  Karosses  vary  in  price  from  <£1  to  =£3  each,  accord- 
ing to  their  size,  kind,  and  quality.  Ostrich-feathers  used  to  fetch  from 
£b  to  £6  per  pound,  but,  partly  owing  to  the  feathers  being  less  worn 
by  the  votaries  of  fashion  in  London,  and  partly  to  the  late  disturbances 
throughout  Europe,  the  prices  have  greatly  fallen.*  The  articles 
required  for  trading  with  the  Bechuana  tribes  consist  of  beads  of  all  sizes 
and  colours,  brass  and  copper  wire,  knives  and  hatchets,  clothing  for 
both  sexes,  ammunition,  guns,  young  cows,  and  she-goats.  The  two 
latter  the  trader  obtains  in  barter  from  the  Boers,  Griqua  and  Koranna 
tribes,  more  immediately  adjacent  to  the  colony. 

Some  writers  have  erroneously  stated  that  snuff  and  tobacco  are  a 
good  circulating  medium  among  the  tribes  in  Southern  Africa,  but  in 
the  course  of  my  experience  I  can  scarcely  remember  having  ever 
obtained  the  smallest  article  in  barter  for  either,  not  even  a  drink  of 
milk.  The  natives  have  certainly  no  objection  to  receive  these  articles 
when  given  gratuitously,  but  are  far  too  wide  awake  to  place  any  great 
value  upon  them.  During  my  career  in  Southern  Africa  I  have  had 
much  experience  in  trading  with  the  Bechuana  tribes,  and,  as  I  shall 
have  occasion  to  refer  to  my  trading  exploits  in  the  course  of  my  narra- 
tive, I  have  entered  into  the  above  particulars  that  the  reader  may,  at 
the  outset,  form  an  idea  of  the  manner  in  which  these  things  are  con- 
ducted. 


*  From  seventy-five  to  ninety  good  sized  ostrich-feathers  weigh  a  pound. 


CAPE  TRADERS.  17 


On  making  inquiries  I  had  the  pleasure  to  find  that,  contrary  to  my 
expectation,  both  Andrew  Thompson  and  Murphy  were  still  in  Graham- 
stown,  where  I  had  left  them  about  three  months  before,  when  I 
marched  thence  into  Caffraria  with  my  regiment ;  and  the  latter,  whom 
I  found  to  be  a  confirmed  tippler,  was  able,  in  his  few  lucid  moments, 
to  give  me  much  valuable  information  relative  to  the  preparations  which 
I  required  to  make  in  the  way  of  purchasing  oxen  and  waggons,  engag- 
ing servants,  etc.,  etc. ;  also  various  wrinkles  as  to  the  conducting  of  my 
establishment,  the  hours  of  marching,  and  the  line  of  country  which  I 
had  chalked  out  for  my  first  expedition.  Poor  Murphy  !  he  was  as 
kind-hearted  a  creature  as  ever  breathed. 

From  the  1st  till  the  22nd  of  October  I  was  actively  employed  in 
making  the  necessary  purchases  and  arrangements  for  my  coming  ex- 
pedition, and  in  forwarding  my  affairs,  in  which  Murphy,  during  his 
sober  intervals,  most  willingly  assisted  me.  As  the  reader  will  observe, 
my  establishment  at  my  first  outset  was  on  a  much  more  limited  scale 
than  upon  subsequent  expeditions.  This  was  partly  owing  to  the  un- 
certainty which  I  felt  as  to  the  success  of  my  sporting  undertakings,  and 
the  length  of  time  which  I  might  feel  inclined  to  devote  to  this  line  of 
life.  I  was  much  in  the  dark  as  to  what  sport  I  might  expect  to  realize, 
and  what  difficulties  I  should  have  to  encounter  in  the  trip  I  was  about 
to  make ;  the  truth  being  that  I  could  not  find  a  single  individual, 
either  among  the  natives  or  the  military,  who  could  in  the  smallest 
degree  enlighten  me  on  the  subject. 

The  general  impression  amongst  my  military  friends  was,  that  any 
game  which  remained  in  the  interior  must  have,  ere  then,  retreated  to 
such  remote  parts,  far  away  in  the  territories  of  savage  tribes,  as  to 
be  utterly  beyond  the  reach  of  any  sportsman,  however  enterprising ; 
and  when  they  saw  me  bustling  about  making  my  purchases,  they  used 
to  say  to  me,  "  It  is  all  nonsense  your  laying  out  your  money  in  this 
way.  Why  don't  you  rather  go  home  at  once  to  your  own  country  ? 
We  shall  see  you  returning  in  a  month  or  two,  like  those  fellows  who 
went  on  a  shooting  trip  last  year,  with  a  coujp-de-sol'eil  and  an  attack  of 
dysentery,  utterly  disgusted  with  the  country,  and  selling  off  all  these 
things  on  which  you  are  now  expending  so  much  capital." 

The  shooting  party  here  alluded  to  consisted  of  one  officer  of  the  7th 
Dragoons,  two  of  the  27th,  and  others  who,  having  obtained  a  few 
week's  leave,  and  burning  to  distinguish  themselves  in  a  campaign 
against  the  ferae  of  Southern  Africa,  had  hired  a  waggon,  and  penetrated 
as  far  as  the  Thebus  mountain,  where  for  a  few  days  they  enjoyed  some 
good  sport  among  the  black  wildebeest  and  springboks  which  abound  on 
the  plains  surrounding  that  mountain ;  till,  having  broken  the  stocks  of 
their  rifles  in  falls  from  their  horses  while  impetuously  "  jaging  "  the 
game,  they  returned  to  head-quarters,  one  suffering  from  coup-de-soleil, 
and  the  rest  from  dysentery  brought  on  by  drinking  bad  water,  they 
having  been  unfortunate  in  the  vley  beside  which  they  had  fixed  their 

encampment.      My  gallant  friend,  Lieutenant  H ,  of  the  91st,  was 

one  of  the  most  urgent  in  endeavouring  to  dissuade  me  from  my  stead- 
fast purpose  of  trekking  up  the  country,  and  recommended  me  rather 
to  return  with  him  to  England,  whither  he  was  about  to  proceed.     He 


18    HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTUKES. 

and  I  had  sent  in  our  resignation  of  Her  Majesty's  service  at  the  same 
time,  and  fortunately  for  us,  by  some  mistake,  our  papers  were  mislaid 
at  Cape  Town,   and  not  forwarded  in  the  usual  course,  whereby  we 

gained  several  months'  pay.     H ,  who,  like  many  others  of  the 

military,  entertained  a  profound  disgust  for  the  colony  and  everything 
connected  with  it,  at  first  could  hardly  believe  that  I  was  in  earnest 
when  I  spoke  of  going  up  the  country  ;  and  when  convinced  that  such 
was  my  determination,  he  said,  with  a  strong  lisp  which  was  habitual  to 
him,  "Good  G — ,  Cummin !  you  are  thurely  mad  to  remain  longer  in 
thith  country  after  you  have  obtained  leave  to  return  to  dear  old  Eng- 
land. I  athure  you,  I  had  rather  be  a  thoe-black  in  England  than  live 
in  thith  beathtly  country." 

Notwithstanding  these  friendly  dissuasions  on  the  part  of  my  acquain- 
tance, I  continued  to  prosecute  my  affairs  so  unremittingly  that  on  the 
22nd  I  considered  my  manifold  arrangements  complete,  and,  being  much 
harassed  and  annoyed  by  the  unavoidable  delays  to  which  I  had  been 
subjected,  I  was  full  of  impatience  to  make  a  start.  These  delays  were 
in  a  great  measure  occasioned  by  the  weather,  heavy  and  constant  rains 
having  fallen  during  the  previous  fourteen  days,  accompanied  with  a 
cold  wind  off  the  Southern  Ocean.  This,  of  necessity,  materially  inter- 
fered with  and  delayed  me  in  my  arrangements,  and  had  also  the  effect 
of  rendering  the  country  perfectly  unfit  for  locomotion,  in  many  places 
cutting  up  the  roads  with  rugged  impassable  watercourses,  and  in  low- 
lying  districts  converting  them  into  deep,  impracticable  quagmires. 

It  will  here  be  necessary  to  give  a  detailed  account  of  my  outfit,  to 
put  the  reader  at  ouce  in  possession  of  the  extent  and  nature  of  my 
establishment  and  camp  equipage.  My  first  object  was,  of  course,  to 
secure  a  travelling  waggon,  and  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  obtain  an 
excellent  new  cap-tent  one,  complete  with  all  its  gear  ready  for  inspan- 
ning,  from  Mr.  Ogilvie  of  Grahamstown,  for  the  sum  of  £60  ;  which, 
as  it  eventually  proved  to  be  a  right  good  one,  was  decidedly  a 
bargain.  I  very  soon,  however,  found  out,  as  I  extensively  col- 
lected specimens  of  natural  history,  that  one  waggon  was  insuffi- 
cient ;  and  not  long  after,  in  the  town  of  Colesberg,  on  the  frontiers 
of  the  colony,  I  purchased  a  second,  also  a  cap-tent  waggon,  with 
its  necessary  accompaniment,  a  span  of  oxen ;  and  at  a  later  period, 
as  the  reader  will  subsequently  learn,  I  found  it  necessary  to  purchase 
a  third,  and  became  the  proprietor  of  considerably  more  than  a  hundred 
draught  oxen. 

From  an  English  farmer  in  the  vicinity  of  Grahamstown,  I  obtained 
a  span  of  twelve  excellent,  well-trained,  black,  zuiir-veldt  oxen,  which  I 
judged  suited  for  my  work,  they  having  been  in  the  habit,  with  their 
late  master,  of  bringing  in  very  heavy  loads  of  wood  to  the  Grahams- 
town market.  Their  price  was  .£3  each ;  and  as  it  is  not  unusual  to  see 
an  ox,  in  the  best  of  spans,  knock  up  on  long  marshes,  by  Murphy's  ad- 
vice I  purchased  two  spare  oxen  of  Mr.  Thomson. 

My  stud  of  horses  as  yet  consisted  of  but  two,  which  had  been  my 
chargers  in  the  regiment.  These  were  "  Sinon,"  a  stallion  which  I  had 
bought  of  Major  Goodman  of  the  27th,  and  "The  Cow,"  an  excellent 
dark-brown  gelding  which  I  had  obtained  from  Colonel  Somerset  of 


MY  SEKVANTS.  19 


"  Ours."  I  did  not  think  it  wise  to  lay  out  more  money  in  horse-flesh 
in  Grahamstown,  as  I  should  shortly  have  to  pass  through  the  Hantam, 
where  most  of  the  Boers  breed  horses  extensively,  which  are  famed  for 
their  spirit  and  hardiness  throughout  the  colony.  I  engaged  four  ser- 
vants,— namely,  an  Englishman  called  Long,  as  head-servant,  a  thorough 
cockney,  who,  as  I  afterwards  learnt,  had  formerly  been  a  cab-driver  in 
London,  and  whom  I  took  into  my  service  at  Murphy's  recommenda- 
tion, Long  being  supposed  to  possess  a  certain  degree  of  experience, 
having  penetrated  as  far  as  the  banks  of  the  Orange  Eiver  on  a  trading 
excursion  on  his  own  account ;  but  his  heart,  as  the  event  proved,  in- 
clined more  to  worship  at  the  shrine  of  Venus  than  at  that  of  Diana.  A 
certain  little  dark-eyed  damsel,  who  acted  as  laundress  to  the  military, 
and  who  was  employed  all  day  in  driving  her  mangle,  seemed  entirely 
to  engross  his  thoughts — Long  frequently  observing  that  "  there  was 
that  sweet  little  creature  obliged  to  drive  a  mangle  who  ought  rather  to 
be  sitting  practising  at  her  '  pihanne.'  " 

My  other  three  servants  were  natives.  A  waggon-driver  named  Klein- 
boy,  a  stout  active  Hottentot,  with  the  high  cheek-bones  and  woolly 
head  of  his  race,  and  who  was  quite  au  fait  at  his  department.  Like 
many  others  of  his  countrymen,  he  was  subject  to  fits  of  sulks,  and  much 
preferred  reclining  for  hours  under  my  waggons,  or  in  the  shade  of  a 
bush  practising  on  his  violin,  to  looking  after  his  master's  work.  My 
leader's  name  was  Carollus :  he  was  the  third  whom  I  had  engaged  in 
that  capacity,  the  other  two  having  absconded.  He  was  a  stout  power- 
ful fellow,  descended  from  the  Mozambique  races.  He  entered  my  ser- 
vice under  cover  of  night,  having  absconded  from  Kingsley  of  "  Ours  " 
— that  gentleman,  according  to  his  assertion,  being  in  the  habit  of  ad- 
ministering a  little  wholesome  correction  with  the  jambok,  which  on 
further  acquaintance  with  him  I  had  reason  to  believe  he  richly  merited. 
My  third  native  servant  was  Cobus,  a  Hottentot  of  light  weight,  the  son  of 
a  veteran  in  my  regiment.  He  'listed  in  the  capacity  of  after-rider,  and 
proved  to  be  first-rate  in  his  calling,  being  the  best  horseman  I  met  with 
in  South  Africa.  He  also,  like  Kleinboy,  was  liable  to  fits  of  sulkiness, 
through  which  I  eventually  lost  him,  for  on  one  occasion  finding  it  neces- 
sary to  inflict  on  him  a  summary  chastisement,  he  deserted  from  my 
service  in  consequence. 

The  baggage,  provisions,  and  general  stores  which  I  carried  with  me 
were  as  follows : — Two  sacks,  containing  300  lbs.  of  coffee,  four  quarter- 
chests  of  tea,  300  lbs.  of  sugar,  300  lbs.  of  rice,  180  lbs.  of  meal,  100  lbs. 
of  flour,  5  lbs.  of  pepper,  100  lbs.  of  salt,  an  anker  of  vinegar,  several 
large  jars  of  pickles,  half  a  dozen  hams  and  cheeses,  2  cases  of  gin,  1 
anker  of  brandy,  1  half-aum  of  Cape  brandy,  iron  baking-pots  with  long 
legs,  stewing  and  frying  pans,  saucepans  and  gridirons,  tin  water-buckets 
of  various  sizes,  2  large  "fagie"  or  water-casks,  an  accompaniment  which 
no  Cape  waggon  is  ever  without,  2  large  flasks  of  tar  to  be  subsequently 
mixed  with  hard  fat  for  greasing  the  wheels  when  required,  6  dozen 
pocket  knives,  24  boxes  of  snuff,  50  lbs.  of  tobacco,  300  lbs.  of  white, 
coral,  red,  and  bright  blue  beads  of  various  sizes ;  3  dozen  tinder-boxes, 
1  cwt.  of  brass-  and  copper  wire,  which  the  Bechuana  tribes,  especially 
those  dwelling  to  the  east,  readily  barter  and  convert  into  ornaments 


20    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

for  their  legs  and  arms  \  2  dozen  sickles,  2  spades,  2  shovels,  1  pickaxe, 
5  superior  American  axes,  2  augers,  1  stock  and  36  bits,  hatchets,  planes, 
drawing-knives,  several  coarse  chisels  for  waggon-work,  a  vice,  black- 
smith and  carpenter's  hammers,  and  a  variety  of  other  tools  appertain- 
ing to  both  these  professions.  A  gross  of  awls,  a  gross  of  sail-needles, 
50  hanks  of  sail-twine,  2  bolts  of  sail-canvas,  several  rolls  of  stout 
woollen  cloths,  2  dozen  gown-pieces,  6  dozen  Malay  handkerchiefs ; 
thread,  needles,  and  buttons ;  ready-made  jackets  and  trowsers  for  my 
people,  several  dozen  coarse  shirts,  Scotch  bonnets,  and  cocker- 
nonnys  (as  for  shoes,  colonial  servants  are  supposed  to  make  them  for 
themselves) ;  a  few  medicines,  arsenical  soap,  English  and  coarse  Boer's 
soap.  Also,  1  large  bell-tent,  1  mattress  and  bedding,  1  camp  table  and 
chair,  and  my  canteen,  which  most  fortunately  I  had  resolved  to  retain 
when  disposing  of  my  other  military  equipments :  I  found  it  a  most 
serviceable  and  convenient  appendage  during  my  five  years'  wanderings 
in  Southern  Africa.  My  saddlery  consisted  of  2  English  hunting  saddles, 
2  common  saddles  for  servants,  and  1  pack-saddle  to  convey  venison  to 
camp.  My  ordnance  was  as  follows : — 3  double-barrelled  rifles  by  Pur- 
dey,  William  Moore,  and  Dickson  of  Edinburgh — the  latter  a  two- 
grooved,  the  most  perfect  and  useful  rifle  I  ever  had  the  pleasure  of 
using;  1  heavy  single-barelled  German  rifle,  carrying  12  to  the  lb.  This 
last  was  an  old  companion,  which  had  been  presented  to  me,  when  a  boy, 
by  my  dear  and  much-lamented  friend,  and  brother-sportsman,  the  late 
James  Duff  of  Innes  House.  With  this  rifle,  about  ten  years  before,  I 
had  brought  down  my  first  stag  on  the  Paps  of  Jura,  and  subsequently 
bowled  over  many  a  princely  master-stag  and  graceful  roebuck  in  his 
summer-coat,  throughout  the  glens  and  forests  of  my  native  land.  The 
Purdey  was  also  a  tried  friend,  both  it  and  the  heavy  German  having 
been  with  me  in  several  campaigns  on  the  plains  and  in  the  jungles  of 
Hindostan.  I  had  also  3  stout  double-barrelled  guns  for  rough  work 
when  hard  riding  and  quick-loading  is  required.  Several  lead-ladles  of 
various  sizes,  a  whole  host  of  bullet-moulds,  loading-rods,  shot-belts, 
powder-flasks,  and  shooting  belts  ;  3  cwt.  of  lead,  50  lbs.  of  pewter  for 
hardening  the  balls  to  be  used  in  destroying  the  larger  game  ;  10,000 
prepared  leaden  bullets,  bags  of  shot  of  all  sizes,  100  lbs.  of  fine  sport- 
ing gunpowder,  300  lbs.  of  coarse  gunpowder,  about  50,000  best  percus- 
sion caps,  2000  gun-flints,  greased  patches  and  cloth  to  be  converted 
into  the  same.  I  carried  also  several  spare  yokes,  yoke-skeys,  whip- 
sticks,  rheims,  and  straps,  2  sets  of  spare  linchpins,  all  of  which  last  ar- 
ticles belong  to  the  waggon.  With  the  above,  and  £200  in  cash  which 
I  carried  with  me,  I  considered  myself  prepared  to  undertake  a  journey 
of  at  least  twelve  months  amongst  Boers  or  Bechuanas,  independent  of 
either. 

While  I  was  laying  in  these  stores,  I  once  or  twice  amused  myself  by 
riding  in  quest  of  rheebok  in  the  rugged  and  precipitous  high  grounds 
lying  immediately  to  the  south  of  Grahamstown.  On  one  of  these  occa- 
sions I  was  accompanied  by  my  cousin,  Colonel  Campbell  of  the  91st 
(one  of  the  bravest  and  most  distinguished  officers  in  the  late  Kafir  war, 
and  withal  about  the  best  rifle-shot  and  keenest  sportsman  then  in  the 
colony),  a  brother  of  Captain  Campbell  of  Skipness,  the  author  of  the 


THE    RHEEBOK.  21 


"Old  Forest-Ranger,"  a  work  highly  approved  amongst  Indian  Nimrods. 
The  rheebok  is  a  species  of  antelope  generally  found  in  all  mountain 
districts  throughout  Southern  Africa,  from  Table  Mountain  to  the  lati- 
tude of  Kuruman  or  New  Litakoo.  Of  the  rheebok  there  are  two  varie- 
ties: the  rhooye-rheebok,  or  red  rheebuck;  and  the  vaal  rheebok,  or  grey 
rheebuck.  The  range  of  the  vaal-rheebok,  to  the  northward,  ceases  in 
the  latitude  of  the  Long  Mountains  lying  to  the  south  of  Kuruman ;  the 
other  variety  is  met  with  as  far  north  as  the  mountains  in  the  territory 
of  Sichely,  chief  of  the  Baquaines,  about  fifty  miles  to  the  north  of  the 
Kurrichane  range.  Both  of  these  antelopes  frequent  high  and  rocky 
mountains.  The  manner  of  hunting  them  is  alike ;  and,  when  properly 
pursued,  I  think  more  nearly  resembles  Scotch  Highland  deerstalking 
than  the  pursuit  of  any  other  antelope. 

Throughout  the  grassy  mountains  which  the  hunter  must  traverse  in 
following  this  antelope,  his  eye  is  often  gladdened  by  romantic  dells  and 
sparkling  rivulets,  whose  exhilarating  freshness  strongly  and  pleasingly 
contrasts  with  the  barren,  rocky  mountain  heights  and  shoulders  imme- 
diately contiguous.  The  green  banks  and  little  hollows  along  the  mar- 
gins of  these  streamlets  are  adorned  with  innumerable  species  of  bril- 
liant plants  and  flowering  shrubs  in  wild  profusion,  Amongst  these,  to 
my  eye,  the  most  dazzling  in  their  beauty  were  perhaps  those  lovely 
heaths  for  which  the  Cape  is  so  justly  renowned.  These  exquisite  plants, 
singly,  or  in  groups,  here  adorn  the  wilderness,  with  a  freedom  and 
luxuriance  which,  could  the  English  gardener  or  amateur  florist  behold, 
he  might  well  feel  disheartened,  so  infinitely  does  Nature  in  this 
favoured  clime  surpass  in  wild  exuberance  the  nurselings  of  his  artificial 
care.  I  remember  being  particularly  struck  with  two  pre-eminently 
brilliant  varieties,  the  one  bearing  a  rose-coloured,  the  other  a  blood-red 
bell ;  and  though  I  regret  to  say  that  I  am  but  a  poor  botanist,  even  in 
the  heat  of  the  chase  I  paused,  spell-bound,  to  contemplate  with  admira- 
tion their  fascinating  beauty. 

Others,  with  their  downy  stems  and  waxen  flowers  of  every  gaudy 
hue,  green,  lilac,  and  various  shades  of  pink,  red,  and  crimson ;  some  of 
them  with  brown  lips  to  the  bel],  flourished  in  the  richer  hollows  of 
their  native  glen,  or  bloomed  with  equal. loveliness  along  the  arid  cliffs 
and  fissures  of  the  overhanging  rocks.  Almost  equalling  the  heaths  in 
beauty,  and  surpassing  them  in  the  additional  attraction  of  their  scented 
leaves,  a  whole  host  of  geraniums  fill  the  balmy  breeze  with  their 
delicious  perfume.  These  are  too  well  known  to  admit  of  any  novelty 
in  description,  but  I  may  mention,  en  passant,  that  they  attain  a  far 
larger  growth  in  their  native  soil  than  I  have  been  in  the  habit  of  see- 
ing in  our  greenhouses.  Small  groups  of  the  lofty,  fair,  conscious-looking 
iris,  rear  their  graceful  heads  along  the  edges  of  the  streams.  Their 
fairy  forms  reflected  in  the  waters,  "  they  seem  to  stand  like  guardian 
Naiads  of  the  strand." 

Another  tribe  of  plants,  which  particularly  delighted  me  from  old 
associations,  though  not  so  striking  as  many  of  its  neighbours  for  per- 
fume and  brilliancy,  was  composed  of  several  varieties  of  the  light,  airy 
fern,  or  bracken,  which,  whether  gracefully  overshadowing  the  mossy 
stones,  eternally  moistened  by  the  bubbling  spray  of  the  stream,  which 


22    HUNTING  AND   SPOETING  ADVENTURES. 

they  kissed  as  it  danced  along,  or  veiling  the  grey  lichen-clad  masses  of 
rock  in  the  hollows  higher  up,  strongly  reminded  me  of  those  so  con- 
spicuously adorning  the  wild  glens  in  the  mountains  of  my  native  land. 
Besides  these,  a  thousand  other  gay  flowers  deck  the  hills  and  plains 
wherever  the  eye  can  fall.  Endless  varieties  of  the  ixea,  the  hsemanthus, 
the  amaryllis,  the  marigold,  and  a  number  of  everlasting  flowers,  are 
scattered  around  with  a  lavish  hand  ;  also  the  splendid  protea,  whose 
sweets  never  fail  to  attract  swarms  of  the  insect  tribes,  on  which  several 
bright  kinds  of  fly-catchers,  their  plumage  glancing  in  the  noonday  sun, 
are  constantly  preying.  Farther  down  these  watercourses,  in  the  dense, 
shady  ravines,  the  jungle  is  ornamented  with  long  tangled  festoons  of 
different  creepers,  among  which  the  wild  jessamine  ranks  foremost, 
hanging  in  fragrant  garlands  amid  the  shaggy  lichens,  and  bunches  of 
bright  orange-coloured  missletoe,  for  which  the  forest  of  Africa,  in  the 
vicinity  of  her  sea-coasts,  are  so  remarkable. 

While  touching  on  the  floral  beauties  of  the  hills  more  immediately 
adjoining  the  sea-coast,  I  may  remark  that  here  are  the  great  nurseries 
for  heaths  and  geraniums.  As  the  traveller  advances  up  the  country 
these  gradually  disappear,  and,  together  with  the  animal  kingdom,  the 
vegetable  world  assumes  entirely  new  features  ;  the  colonial  forest-trees 
and  bushes,  herbs,  and  plants,  being  succeeded  by  a  vast  and  endless 
world  of  loveliness  ;  unseen,  unknown,  untrodden,  save  by  those  varied 
multitudes  of  stupendous,  curious,  and  beautiful  quadrupeds,  whose 
forefathers  have  roamed  its  mighty  solitudes  from  primaeval  ages,  and 
with  whom  I  afterwards  became  so  intimately  acquainted. 


CHAPTEE   II. 


Mysteries  of  Inspanning—  Cape  Waggon  and  its  Furniture — Departure  from 
Grahamstown — My  head  Servant  leaves  me — Impassable  state  of  the  Roads 
— My  Waggon  in  a  Fix — Change  of  Route — Singular  Instinct  of  the  Honey- 
bird. 

On  the  23rd  of  October,  1843,  having  completed  my  final  arrangements, 
and  collected  and  settled  all  outlying  debts,  the  weather,  which  had 
been  wet  and  stormy  for  many  days  past,  assuming  a  more  settled 
appearance,  I  resolved  to  "  inspan  "  and  "  trek,''  which  the  reader  will 
bear  in  mind  mean  to  yoke  and  march.  I  accordingly  communicated  my 
intentions  to  my  followers,  and  despatched  my  leader  Carollus  to  the 
neighbouring  mountains,  where  my  cattle  were  supposed  to  be  pastur- 
ing, to  bring  them  up.  He  expended  the  greater  part  of  the  day  in 
searching  for  them  in  vain  about  their  wonted  feeding-ground  :  at 
length,  late  in  the  afternoon,  he  chanced  to  meet  a  comrade,  who  in- 
formed him  that  the  oxen  he  was  seeking  were  safely  lodged  in  the 
"  skit-kraal,"  or  pound,  Colonel  Somerset,  of  "  Ours,"  having  detected 
them  in  the  act  of  luxuriating  in  a  field  of  green  forage.  This  pleasing 
intelligence  demanded  my  immediate  attendance  at  the  skit-kraal, 
where,  by  a  disembursement  of  nine  shillings,  I  obtained  their  release. 
Having  secured  my  oxen,  my  next  business  was  to  find  my  servants, 


THE    CAPE    WAGGON.  23 

who  were  all  missing.  Long,  as  I  expected,  was  found  gallantly  assist- 
ing the  dark-eyed  heroine  of  the  mangle,  and  Kleinboy  and  Cobus  were 
discovered  in  a  state  of  brutal  intoxication,  stretched  on  the  green-sward 
in  front  of  one  of  the  canteens,  along  with  sundry  other  waggon-drivers 
and  Hottentot  Venuses,  all  in  the  same  glorious  condition,  having  ex- 
pended on  liquor  the  pay  which  they  had  extracted  from  me  in  advance 
on  the  plea  of  providing  themselves  with  necessaries.  Drunk  as  they 
were,  Carollus,  who  was  sober,  managed  to  allure  them  to  the  waggons, 
and,  Long  assisting,  the  inspanning  commenced.  As  no  man  who  has 
not  visited  the  Cape  can  form  any  idea  of  the  manner  in  which  this 
daily  operation  is  performed,  it  will  here  be  necessary  to  explain  it, 
and  to  say  a  few  more  words  concerning  the  structure  of  a  waggon. 

The  Cape  waggon  is  a  large  and  powerful,  yet  loosely-constructed 
vehicle,  running  on  four  wheels.  Its  extreme  length  is  about  18  feet, 
its  breadth  varying  from  3J  to  4  feet ;  the  depth  of  the  sides  is  about 
2  feet  6  inches  in  front,  but  higher  towards  the  back  of  the  waggon. 
All  along  the  sides  two  rows  of  iron  staples  are  riveted,  in  which  are 
fastened  the  boughs  forming  the  tent,  which  arches  over  the  waggon  to 
a  height  of  5  feet,  with  an  awning  of  Caffre  mat,  and  a  strong  canvas 
sail  over  all,  with  "fore-clap"  and  "after-clap,"  which  is  the  colonial 
name  for  two  broad  canvas  curtains,  that  form  part  and  parcel  of  the 
sail,  and  hang  in  front  and  rear  of  the  waggon,  reaching  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  ground.  In  the  front  is  placed  a  large  chest  occupying  the 
extreme  breadth  of  the  waggon,  on  which  the  driver  and  two  passengers 
of  ordinary  dimensions  can  sit  abreast.  This  is  called  the  fore-chest, 
and  is  secured  from  sliding  forwards  by  two  buffalo  rheims,  or  strips  of 
dressed  hide,  placed  across  the  front  of  it,  and  secured  to  the  sides.  A 
A  similar  chest  is  fastened  in  like  manner  to  the  rear  of  the  waggon, 
which  is  called  the  after-chest.  Along  the  sides  of  the  waggon,  and  out- 
side it,  are  two  longer  and  narrower  chests  called  side-chests.  These 
are  supported  by  two  horizontal  bars  of  hard  wood  riveted  to  the 
bottom  of  the  waggon.  The  side-chests  are  very  convenient  for  holding 
tools,  and  all  manner  of  odds  and  ends  too  numerous  to  mention.  The 
fore  and  after  chests  are  likewise  extremely  useful  for  containing  cloth- 
ing, ammunition,  and  a  thousand  small  articles  in  daily  use. 

Along  the  sides  of  the  tent  are  suspended  rows  of  square-cut  canvas 
bags,  called  side-pockets,  in  which  the  traveller  keeps  his  hair-brushes 
and  combs,  razors,  knives,  tooth-brushes,  soap,  towels,  or  anything  else 
which  he  may  wish  to  have  at  hand.  I  used  to  devote  one  to  contain 
my  luncheon,  which  often  consisted  of  a  slice  of  elephant's  trunk. 

The  traveller  sleeps  upon  a  sort  of  cot,  termed  a  "cardell."  This 
cardell  is  a  light,  strong,  oblong  frame,  about  eight  feet  in  length,  and 
occupying  the  breadth  of  the  waggon.  It  is  bored  all  round  with  small 
holes,  through  which  strips  of  hide  are  interlaced,  forming  a  sort  of  net- 
work on  which  the  mattress  rests.  This  cot  is  slung  across  the  waggon, 
and  is  attached  with  thongs  to  the  bows  of  the  tent,  its  elevation  being 
regulated  by  the  cargo,  which  is  carefully  stowed  away  beneath  it  in  the 
body  of  the  waggon.  Suspended  underneath  the  hind  part  of  the 
vehicle  is  a  strong  wooden  framework  called  the  trap,  on  which  the  pots 
and  gridirons  are  lashed  during  a  march.     The  waggon  is  steered  by  a 


24    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


pole,  called  the  dissel-boom,  to  the  end  of  which  is  fastened  the  trektow, 
a  stout  rope  formed  of  raw  buffalo-hide.  It  is  pulled  by  a  span,  or 
team,  consisting  of  twelve  oxen,  which  draw  the  waggon  by  yokes 
fastened  along  the  trektow  at  regular  intervals  by  means  of  strips  of  raw 
hide.  Passing  through  each  end  of  the  yoke,  at  distances  of  18  inches 
from  one  another,  are  two  parallel  bars  of  tough  wood  about  18  inches 
in  length  ;  these  are  called  yoke-skeys.  In  inspanning,  the  yoke  is 
placed  on  the  back  of  the  neck  of  the  ox,  with  one  of  these  skeys  on 
either  side,  and  towards  the  ends  are  notches  in  which  is  fixed  the  strap, 
made  of  twisted  hide ;  this,  passing  under  the  neck  of  the  animal, 
secures  him  in  the  yoke. 

Besides  these  straps,  each  pair  of  oxen  is  strongly  coupled  by  the 
buffalo  rheims,  which  are  used  in  catching  and  placing  them  in  their 
proper  order,  preparatory  to  inspanning  them :  a  rheim  is  a  long  strip 
of  prepared  hide  with  a  noose  at  the  end ;  it  is  made  either  of  ox  or 
buffalo  hide,  and  is  about  eight  feet  long.  A  waggon  is  also  provided 
with  a  tar-bucket,  two  powerful  iron  chains  which  are  called  the  rheim- 
chains,  and  a  large  iron  drag  called  the  rheim-schoen  :  also  the  invaria- 
ble whip  and  jambok  ;  the  former  consisting  of  a  bamboo  pole  upwards 
of  20  feet  in  length,  with  a  thong  of  about  25  feet,  to  the  end  of  which 
is  sewn  with  "rheimpys,"  or  strips  of  dressed  steinbok  skin,  the  "after- 
slock,"  and  to  this  again  is  fastened  the  "fore-slock,"  corresponding  with 
the  little  whipcord  lash  of  the  English  coachman.  The  "  fore-slock," 
about  which  the  waggon-drivers  are  very  particular,  is  about  a  yard  in 
length,  and  is  formed  of  a  strip  of  the  supple  skin  of  some  particular 
variety  of  antelope  prepared  in  a  peculiar  manner.  The  skins  of  only 
a  few  species  of  antelopes  are  possessed  of  sufficient  toughness  for  this 
purpose.  Those  most  highly  prized  amongst  the  colonists  are  the  skins 
of  the  hartebeest,  koodoo,  blesbok,  and  bushbuck  ;  when  none  of  these 
are  to  be  obtained  they  use  the  skin  of  a  he-goat,  which  is  very  inferior. 
The  colonial  waggon-driver  wields  this  immense  whip  with  great  dexterity 
and  grace.  As  he  cracks  it  he  produces  a  report  nearly  equal  to  that 
of  a  gun,  and  by  this  means  he  signals  to  his  leader,  who  is  perhaps 
herding  the  oxen  at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  to  bring  them  up  when  it  is 
time  to  inspan. 

The  "jambok  "  is  another  instrument  of  persuasion,  indispensable  in 
the  outfit  of  every  Cape  waggon.  It  is  made  of  the  thick  tough  hide 
either  of  the  white  rhinoceros  or  hippopotamus.  Its  length  is  from  six 
to  7  feet ;  its  thickness  at  the  handle  is  about  an  inch  and  a  half,  and  it 
tapers  gradually  to  the  point.  These  jamboks  are  exceedingly  tough 
and  pliant,  and  are  capable  of  inflicting  most  tremendous  chastisement 
upon  the  thick  hides  of  sulky  and  refractory  oxen.  Those  manufactured 
from  the  skin  of  the  hippopotamus  are  very  much  superior  to  those  of 
the  rhinoceros,  being  naturally  of  a  much  tougher  quality.  If  properly 
prepared,  one  of  these  will  last  for  many  years.  A  smaller  description 
of  jambok  is  manufactured  for  the  benefit  of  horses,  and  may  be  seen  in 
the  hands  of  every  horseman  in  the  colony. 

When  the  leader  brings  up  the  oxen  to  the  waggon  to  be  inspanned, 
the  waggon-driver  if  possible  sends  another  Hottentot  to  his  assistance, 
especially  if  any  of  the  oxen  in  the  span  happen  to  be  young  or  refrac- 


INSPANNING— THE  WHIP.  25 


tory.  These,  armed  with  a  huge  jambok  in  one  hand,  and  a  handful  of 
stones  in  the  other,  one  on  either  flank,  with  shouts,  yells,  and  impreca- 
tions, urge  forward  the  unwilling  team  towards  the  yokes,  where  the 
driver  is  standing  with  the  twelve  long  buffalo  rheims  hanging  on  his  left 
arm,  pouring  forth  a  volley  of  soothing  terms,  such  as — 

"  Ah  !  now,  Scotland !  Wo  ha,  Blauberg !  you  skellum,  keer  dar 
Carollus  for  Blauberg,  ye  stand  somar  da,  ich  wichna  wha  yo  hadachta 
ist."  (Turn  there  for  Blauberg ;  you  stand  there  in  an  absent  state,  I 
do  not  know  where  your  ideas  are.)  "  Holland,  you  ould  Myfooty  ! " 
("Myfooty"  is  a  common  Hottentot  term,  which  I  would  defy  even 
themselves  to  construe.  The  Dutch  word  "  somar,"  mentioned  above,  is 
also  a  word  to  which  I  think  I  could  challenge  the  most  learned  school- 
master in  the  colony  to  attach  any  definite  meaning.  It  is  used  both 
by  Boers  and  Hottentots  in  almost  every  sentence ;  it  is  an  answer  to 
every  question;  and  its  meanings  are  endless.)  "  Slangfeldt,  you  neu- 
xel  !  "  (Snakefield,  you  humbug  !)  "  Wo  ha,  now,  Creishmann  ! '' 
(Crooked  man.)  "Orlam,  you  verdomde  Kind,  vacht  un  bidgte,  ich  soil 
you  krae."  (Civilized  !  you  d — d  child  ;  wait  a  bit,  I'll  serve  you  out.) 
"  Vitfoot,  you  duivel !  slahm  dar  fur  Vitfoot,  slahm  ihm  dat  he  barst !  " 
(Whitefoot,  you  devil !  flog  there  Whitefoot,  flog  him  till  he  bursts.) 
"  Englandt,  you  ould  ghroote-pench  !  Ah  now  !  Wo  ha  !  Ye  dat  so 
lowe  ist  in  die  shwor  plach,  und  dharum  so  vees  at  inspanning  !  Vacht 
un  bidgte,  ich  soil  a  plach  for  you  aitsuch.  Ye  lob  da  for  nett  so  as  ye 
will,  mar  ich  soil  you  arter  bring,  whar  ich  kann  you  mach  like  baikam." 
(England,  you  old  big-paunch  !  Ah  no!  Wo  ha  !  You  who  are  so  lazy 
in  the  heavy  place,  and  nevertheless  so  vicious  at  inspanning.  Wait  a 
little.  I  shall  seek  out  a  place  for  you  !  You  tramp  there  in  front, 
exactly  as  you  please ;  but  I  will  yoke  you  farther  back,  where  I  can 
reach  you  with  facility.) 

This  last  is  said  in  allusion  to  "  England's  "  having  lately  been  in  the 
habit  of  being  yoked  in  the  front  of  the  team,  and  if  it  is  very  long  the 
driver  cannot  reach  the  leading  oxen  with  his  whip  without  descending 
from  the  box,  and,  therefore,  when  a  fore-ox  becomes  lazy,  he  is  yoked 
farther  back  in  the  team,  that  he  may  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  per- 
suasive "  fore-slock." 

While  the  driver's  tongue  is  pouring  forth  this  flow  of  Hottentot  elo- 
quence with  amazing  volubility,  his  hands  and  feet  are  employed  with 
equal  activity  *  the  former  in  throwing  the  open  noose  of  the  rheim, 
lasso-like,  over  the  horns  of  each  ox,  and  drawing  it  tight  round  them 
as  he  catches  him ;  the  latter  in  kicking  the  eyes  and  noses  of  those 
oxen  which  the  jamboks  and  shouts  of  the  leaders  behind  have  driven 
too  far  in  upon  him.  At  this  moment  "Blauberg,"  who  is  an  old 
offender,  and  who  acquired  in  early  youth  the  practice  which  he  has 
never  relinquished  of  bolting  from  the  team  at  the  moment  of  inspann- 
ing, being  this  day  unusually  lively,  not  having  had  any  severe  work  for 
some  weeks,  suddenly  springs  round,  notwithstanding  Kleinboy,  well 
aware  of  his  propensities,  has  got  his  particular  rheim  firmly  twisted 
round  his  hand  ;  and  having  once  got  his  tail  where  his  head  ought  to 
have  been,  and  thus  deprived  Kleinboy  of  all  purchase  over  him,  he 
bounds  madly  forward,  heedless  of  a  large  sharp  stone  with  which  one 


26    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

of  the  leaders  salutes  him  in  the  eye.  By  his  forward  career,  Carollus 
is  instantly  dashed  to  the  ground ;  and  Kleinboy,  who  has  pertinaciously 
grasped  the  rheim  in  the  vain  hope  of  retrieving  the  matter,  is  dragged 
several  yards  along  the  ground,  and  eventually  relinquishes  the  rheim, 
at  the  same  time  losing  a  good  deal  of  the  outer  bark  of  his  unfortunate 
hand.  Away  goes  Blauberg  in  his  headlong  course,  tearing  frantically 
over  hill  and  dale,  his  rheim  flying  from  his  horns  like  a  streamer  in 
the  wind.  His  course  lies  right  across  the  middle  of  the  Cape-Corps 
barracks,  where  about  forty  or  fifty  riflemen  who  are  lounging  about, 
parade  being  over,  rush  to  intercept  his  course,  preceded  by  a  pack  of 
mongrel  curs  of  every  shape  and  size,  but  in  vain.  Blauberg,  heedless 
of  a  shower  of  sticks  and  stones  hurled  at  his  devoted  head,  charges 
through  the  midst  of  them,  nor  is  he  recovered  for  the  space  of  about 
two  hours. 

The  rest  of  the  team,  seeing  their  driver  sprawling  on  the  ground,  as 
a  matter  of  course  follow  Blauberg's  example :  instantly  wheeling  to  the 
right  and  left  about,  away  they  scamper,  each  selecting  a  course  for  him- 
self, some  with  and  others  without  the  appendage  of  the  streamers. 
The  Hottentots,  well  aware  that  it  will  be  useless  to  follow  Blauberg  in 
the  usual  way,  as  he  would  probably  lead  them  a  chase  of  four  or  five 
miles,  now  adopt  the  most  approved  method  usually  practised  in  such 
cases.  They  accordingly  drive  out  a  small  troop  of  tamer  oxen,  with 
which  they  proceed  in  quest  of  the  truant.  This  troop  they  cunningly 
induce  Mr.  Blauberg  to  join,  and  eventually  return  with  him  to  the 
waggon — the  driver,  with  pouting  lips  and  the  sweat  running  down  his 
brow,  pouring  forth  a  torrent  of  threatened  vengeance  against  the 
offending  Blauberg.  The  inspanning  is  then  once  more  commenced  as 
before,  and  Blauberg,  being  this  time  cautiously  placed  in  a  central 
position,  well  wedged  up  by  the  other  oxen,  whereby  he  is  prevented 
from  turning  about,  is  lassoed  with  the  strongest  rheim,  and  firmly 
secured  to  the  steady  old  ox  who  has  purposely  been  driven  up  beside 
him.  The  twelve  oxen  are  soon  all  securely  yoked  in  their  proper 
places;  the  leader  has  made  up  his  "fore-tow,"  which  is  a  long  spare 
rheim  attached  round  the  horns  of  each  of  the  fore  or  front  oxen,  by 
which  he  leads  the  team,  and  inspanning  is  reported  to  be  accom- 
plished. 

I  omitted  to  mention  that  the  two  fore-oxen,  and  the  two  after-oxen, 
which  are  yoked  one  on  either  side  of  the  "  dissel-boom,"  or  pole,  are 
always  supposed  to  be  the  steadiest,  most  intelligent,  and  tractable  in 
the  team.  The  two  fore-oxen  in  particular,  to  be  right  good  ones, 
require  a  combination  of  excellences,  as  it  is  indispensable  for  the  safety 
of  the  waggon  that  they  thoroughly  understand  their  duty.  They  are 
expected,  unguided  by  reins,  to  hold  the  rare-trodden  roads  which  occur 
throughout  the  remoter  parts  of  the  colony  either  by  day  or  night ;  and 
so  well  trained  are  these  sagacious  animals  that  it  is  not  uncommon  to 
meet  with  a  pair  of  fore-oxen  which  will,  of  their  own  accord,  hold  the 
"  spoor  "  or  track  of  a  single  waggon  which  has  perhaps  crossed  a  plain 
six  months  previously.   «# 

In  dangerous  ground,  however — where  the  narrow  road  winds  through 
stones  and  rocks,  or  along  the  brink  of  a  precipice ;  or  where  the  road  is 


SAGACITY  OF   OXEN.  27 

much  intersected  by  water-courses,  and  bordered  by  the  eternal  hillocks 
raised  by  the  white  ants,  which  are  of  the  consistence  of  a  brick,  being 
formed  during  damp  weather,  of  clay,  which  the  sun  afterwards  hardens; 
or  where  the  "aard-varcke,"  or  ant-bear,  with  his  powerful  claws  has 
undermined  the  road  with  enormous  holes — the  fore-oxen,  however 
trustworthy,  should  never  be  left  to  their  own  devices,  h\it  the  leader 
should  precede  them,  leading  by  the  tow.  This  safe  and  highly  neces- 
sary precaution  is  however  rarely  practised  by  the  ruffianly  Hottentots 
if  the  "  baas  "  or  master  is  not  present,  these  worthies  preferring  to  sit 
still  and  smoke  their  pipes  or  play  their  violins  during  the  march,  to 
performing  their  duty,  thus  frequently  exposing  their  master's  property 
to  imminent  peril.  It  is  thus  that  more  than  half  the  capsizes,  broken 
axletrees,  broken  dissel-booms,  and  smashed  cap-tents,  daily  occur 
throughout  the  colony.  All  being  now  in  readiness,  and  some  pots  and 
spades,  which  the  Hottentots  as  a  matter  of  course  had  omitted  to  stow 
away  in  their  proper  places,  being  securely  lashed  on  the  trap  and  to 
the  sides  of  the  waggon,  the  illustrious  Kleinboy  brandishes  his  hugQ 
whip,  and  cracking  it  with  a  report  which  loudly  reverberates  through- 
out the  walls  and  houses  of  the  Cape-Corps  barracks,  shouts  out,  with 
stentorian  lungs — 

"  Trek,  trek,  you  duivels  !  Ehure  y'lla  dar  vor,  you  skellums  !  Ane 
spoor  trap,  you  neuxels  !  Tabelberg,  you  ould  kring  !  Trek,  you  lowe 
paar  marys.  Schneeberg,  you  lowe  Satan !  Blauberg,  you  duivel's 
kind  ! " — (Draw,  draw,  you  devils  !  Move  yourselves  forward,  there, 
you  skellums  !  Tramp  all  in  the  same  track,  you  humbugs  !  Table 
Mountain,  you  old  ring  !  Draw,  you  lazy  troop  of  mares  !  Snow 
Mountain,  you  lazy  Satan  !     Blue  Mountain,  you  child  of  the  devil ! 

At  the  same  moment  he  catches  the  refractory  Blauberg  the  most 
terrific  wipe  round  the  ribs  with  his  fore-slock,  accompanied,, by  a  sharp 
report  like  the  discharge  of  a  pistol,  upon  which  a  cloud  of  blue  hair  is 
seen  to  fly  from  the  ox,  and  a  long  red  streak,  down  which  the  blood 
copiously  flows,  denotes  the  power  of  the  weapon  the  driver  so  merci- 
lessly wields  over  the  backs  of  his  horny  team.  At  last  the  huge  and 
heavily-laden  waggon  is  in  motion,  and  rolls  lightly  along  after  the 
powerful  oxen,  which  on  level  ground  seem  scarcely  to  feel  the  yokes 
which  lie  across  their  necks. 

Requiring  to  pick  up  several  large  parcels  at  the  stores  of  some  of 
the  merchants  in  the  town,  we  trekked  down  the  main  street  of 
Grahamstown ;  and  in  passing  the  shops  of  the  butchers  and  bakers, 
laid  in  a  large  supply  of  bread  and  fresh  meat  for  immediate  use.  Be- 
fore we  had  proceeded  far,  some  sharp-sighted  Hottentots  came  running 
after  us,  calling  out  that  a  fountain  of  tiger's  milk  had  started  in  the 
stern  of  the  waggon  ;  and  on  halting  we  discovered  that  several  loose 
cases  of  gin  which  I  had  purchased  for  immediate  use,  and  which  had 
not  been  properly  stowed,  had  sprung  a  leak.  The  Hottentots  seemed 
to  regret  amazingly  the  loss  of  so  much  good  liquor,  and  endeavoured 
with  their  hands  to  catch  it  as  it  fell. 

Owing  to  the  various  delays  which  had  occifrred  during  the  day,  I 
did  not  get  more  than  half  a  mile  clear  of  Grahamstown  when  the  sun 
went  down ;  and  there  being  then  no  moon,  I  deemed  it  expedient  to 


28    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

halt  for  the  night.  We  accordingly  outspanned ;  and  the  Hottentots, 
having  secured  the  oxen  to  the  yokes,  and  picketed  my  two  horses  on 
the  wheels,  requested  my  permission  to  return  to  the  town  to  take 
another  farewell  of  their  wives  and  sweethearts.  This  I  did  not  deem 
altogether  prudent ;  but,  knowing  well  that  if  I  withheld  my  consent 
they  would  go  without  it,  I  considered  it  best  to  comply  with  a  good 
grace ;  and,  granting  a  general  leave  of  absence,  took  on  myself 
the  charge  of  the  castle  which  was  destined  to  be  my  home  during  the 
next  five  years. 

The  Hottentots,  strange  to  say,  according  to  their  promise,  returned 
to  the  waggon  during  the  night,  and  next  morning,  at  earliest  dawn  of 
day,  I  roused  them,  and  we  inspanned.  When  this  was  accomplished, 
my  head  servant  Long  not  appearing,  we  marched  without  him ;  but  we 
had  only  proceeded  about  three  miles  when  he  managed  to  overtake  us, 
the  road  being  hilly  and  very  soft,  owing  to  the  recent  rains.  On 
coming  up  and  recovering  his  breath,  he  expressed  himself  very  much 
disgusted  at  my  starting  without  him,  when  I  took  the  liberty  of  ex- 
plaining that  I  expected  my  servants  to  wait  for  me,  and  not  that  I 
should  tarry  for  them.  Our  progress  was  considerably  impeded  by  the 
bad  state  of  the  roads,  and  at  ten  A.M.  we  halted  for  breakfast  beside  a 
pool  of  rain-water,  having  performed  a  march  of  about  nine  miles.  Here, 
having  outspanned  our  oxen,  we  set  about  preparing  our  gipsy  break- 
fast :  one  collected  sticks  for  the  fires,  another  filled  the  kettles  at  the 
adjoining  "  vley,"  while  Long  and  I  were  busied  in  spreading  the  table 
and  dusting  the  beefsteaks  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Having  permitted  the  oxen  to  graze  for  a  few  hours,  we  again  in- 
spanned,  holding  the  high  road  for  Somerset ;  and  about  sundown  we 
halted  for  the  night  on  the  farm  of  a  Mr.  Fichett,  a  great  sheep-farmer, 
who  received  me  hospitably,  and  invited  me  to  dine  with  him.  Here  I 
met  Captain  Codrington,  who  had  lately  sold  out  of  the  7th  Dragoons. 
Our  march  this  day  lay  through  a  succession  of  low,  undulating  hills, 
richly  clothed  with  a  variety  of  grasses,  herbs,  and  flowers,  with  here 
and  there  large  patches  of  dwarfish  evergreens.  I  had  directed  my  Hot- 
tentots to  kraal  the  oxen  that  night,  with  the  intention  of  making  an 
early  start  on  the  following  morning,  but  the  herd  managed  to  lose  them 
in  the  thick  underwood.  They  were,  however,  recovered  at  an  early 
hour  on  the  following  morning,  and,  having  breakfasted,  I  was  about  to 
proceed,  when  Long,  with  a  face  worthy  of  his  name,  came  up  to  me 
with  a  whole  tissue  of  dire  complaints  about  his  personal  inconveniences, 
the  most  galling  of  which  appeared  to  be  his  having  to  sleep  on  the 
ground  in  the  tent.  On  my  friend's  advancing  these  objections,  I  saw 
very  plainly  that  he  was  not  the  man  for  my  work,  as  the  life  before  us 
was  by  no  means  likely  to  be  one  of  luxury ;  so  having  made  over  to 
him  his  impedimenta,  and  paid  him  him  his  month's  wages,  I  wished 
him  a  safe  return  to  Grahamstown. 

It  was  a  lovely  day,  with  a  bright  blue  sky  overhead,  covered  with 
light,  fleecy  clouds,  and  the  trees  and  shrubs,  freshened  by  the  recent 
rains,  emitted  an  aromatic  perfume.  Having  proceeded  some  miles,  we 
commenced  ascending  the  Zuurberg  range,  where  we  were  met  by  two 
waggons  from  Somerset,  laden  with  oranges  for  the  Grahamstown  mar- 


A    WAGGON    DILEMMA.  29 

ket,  of  which  I  purchased  several  dozen,  and  found  them  excellent.  The 
drivers  of  these  waggons  informed  me  that  the  road  in  advance  was  al- 
most impassable,  owing  to  the  recent  heavy  rains.  Although  their  oxen 
were  better  than  mine,  and  their  waggons  lighter  by  some  thousand 
pounds,  they  had  had  great  difficulty  in  coming  on,  and  they  recom- 
mended me  to  retrace  my  steps,  and,  crossing  the  country,  try  the  other 
road  by  De  Bruin's  Poort.  Notwithstanding  their  remonstrances,  I  re- 
solved to  push  on  and  give  it  a  trial. 

About  midday  I  outspanned  for  two  hours,  to  let  the  cattle  graze ; 
after  which,  having  proceeded  a  few  miles,  we  found  the  road  so  cut  up 
that  we  were  obliged  to  abandon  it,  and  trek  along  the  rugged  hill-side, 
holding  a  course  parallel  to  it.  Marching  in  front,  and  sinking  up  to 
my  ankles  in  mud  at  every  step,  I  endeavoured  to  select  the  hardest 
ground,  on  which  the  waggon  might  follow.  The  ground  now  every 
moment  became  worse  and  worse ;  the  panting  oxen,  straining  every 
nerve  to  keep  it  in  motion,  and  halting  every  hundred  yards  to  take 
breath.  At  length  the  wheels  suddenly  sank  deep  into  the  soil,  and  be- 
came immoveably  fixed,  upon  which  we  made  loose  our  shovels  and 
pickaxe,  and  worked  hard  for  half  an  hour,  clearing  away  the  soil  in 
front  of  and  around  the  wheels  ;  which,  being  accomplished,  we  rigged 
out  a  fore-tow  and  extra  yoke  to  inspan  my  two  spare  oxen,  and  then 
set  our  whole  fourteen  to  draw,  but  they  could  not  move  the  waggon 
an  inch. 

We  then  lightened  it  of  a  part  of  the  cargo,  and,  after  half  an  hour's 
further  labour,  we  had  relieved  the  waggon  of  upwards  of  three  thou- 
sand pounds  ;  but  still  the  oxen,  notwithstanding  the  most  unmerciful 
application  of  both  whip  and  jambok,  failed  to  move  it.  The  thought 
then  struck  me  of  pulling  it  out  backwards  ;  we  accordingly  cast  loose 
the  trektow,  and,  having  hooked  on  the  long  span  or  team  to  the  after- 
part  of  the  waggon,  we  succeeded  in  extricating  it  from  its  deep  bed. 
We  next  proceeded  with  much  care  and  trouble  to  stow  away  the  bag- 
gage which  we  had  removed,  and  the  oxen  being  again  placed  in  their 
position  we  resumed  our  journey ;  but,  before  we  had  gone  three  hun- 
dred yards,  the  waggon  again  became  engulfed,  sinking  into  the  earth 
to  such  a  depth  that  I  half  expected  it  would  disappear  altogether.  The 
nave  of  the  wheel  was  actually  six  or  eight  inches  below  the  surface. 
This  put  us  at  our  wits'  ends,  and  I  began  to  think  that,  if  this  was  to 
be  our  rate  of  travelling,  my  hair  would  be  grey  ere  I  reached  the  land 
of  elephants. 

A  few  minutes  after  this  had  occurred,  another  waggon  meeting  us 
from  Somerset  hove  in  sight,  but  shortly  stuck  fast  within  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  of  us.  Its  owner,  an  Englishman,  an  Albany  transport-rider  or 
carrier,  of  the  name  of  Leonard,  now  came  up  and  requested  me  to  lend 
him  my  oxen  to  assist  him  in  his  difficulties,  which  I  did,  he  promising 
in  return  to  help  me  out  of  mine ;  but  it  was  not  until  unloaded  of  the 
entire  cargo  that  they  succeeded  in  extricating  it ;  after  which,  with 
considerable  trouble,  they  came  up  to  us.  We  now  hooked  to  my 
waggon  both  spans,  amounting  to  twenty-six  strong  oxen,  the  drivers 
standing  one  on  either  side,  with  their  whips  ready  at  the  given  signal 
to  descend  upon  the  devoted  oxen.     I  myself,  with  one  of  the  Hotten- 

2 


30  HUNTING  AND  SPOUTING  ADVENTURES. 

tots,  armed  with  the  jamboks,  stood  by  the  after-oxen,  upon  whom,  in 
a  dilemma  of  this  sort,  much  depends.  Every  man  and  beast  being  at 
their  post,  the  usual  cry  of  "  Trek,  trek !  "  resounded  on  all  sides, 
accompanied  by  a  torrent  of  unearthly  yells  and  abusive  epithets  ;  at 
the  same  time  the  whips  were  plied  with  energetic  dexterity,  and  came 
down  with  startling  reports  on  the  backs  of  the  oxen  throughout  all 
parts  of  the  team. 

The  twenty-six  oxen,  thus  urged,  at  the  same  moment  concentrated 
their  energies,  laying  a  mighty  strain  on  the  gear.  Something  must 
yield,  and  accordingly  my  powerful  buffalo  trektow  snapped  asunder 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  dissel-boom.  The  trektow  being  strongly 
knotted  together,  a  second  attempt  was  made,  when  it  again  snapped  in 
a  fresh  place.  We  then  unhooked  the  long  drag-chains  from  beneath 
the  waggon,  wherewith  having  fortified  the  trektow,  we  made  a  third 
trial.  The  cunning  oxen,  having  now  twice  exerted  themselves  in  vain, 
and  being  well  aware  that  the  waggon  was  fast,  according  to  their  usual 
custom,  could  not  be  induced  to  make  any  further  effort,  notwithstand- 
ing the  waggon-drivers  had  inflicted  upon  them  about  an  hour's  terrific 
flogging,  till  the  sides  of  half  of  them  were  running  down  with  gore. 
In  cases  of  this  sort  the  oxen,  instead  of  taking  properly  to  their  work, 
spring  about  in  the  yoke,  and  turn  their  tails  round  where  their  heads 
should  be,  invariably  snapping  the  straps  and  yoke-skeas,  and  fre- 
quently splitting  the  yokes. 

In  the  present  instance  my  gear  did  not  escape,  for,  after  battling 
with  the  oxen  till  the  sun  went  down,  and  smashing  the  half  of  my 
rheims,  straps,  and  skeas,  and  splitting  one  of  my  yokes,  we  were 
obliged  to  drop  it  for  the  night.  We  cast  loose  the  oxen,  and,  driving 
them  up  the  hill-side,  granted  them  their  liberty  until  morning ;  and 
leaving  our  broken  gear,  pickaxes,  spades,  and  other  utensils  scattered 
about  the  ground  in  grand  confusion,  tired  and  worn  out  we  kindled  a 
fire,  and  set  about  cooking  our  dinner.  Leonard  and  his  servants  de- 
clared that  they  had  not  tasted  anything  but  a  little  biscuit  and  coffee 
during  the  last  three  days,  the  Dutchmen  along  their  road  being  very 
unfriendly  and  inhospitable  to  the  English  transport-riders. 

Next  morning  we  awoke  refreshed  by  sound  slumbers,  and  having 
despatched  all  the  Hottentots,  excepting  one  man,  in  quest  of  the  oxen, 
Leonard  and  I  were  actively  employed  for  two  hours  in  digging  out  and 
off-loading  the  waggon,  after  which  Leonard  and  the  Hottentot -set 
about  preparing  the  breakfast,  whilst  I  proceeded  to  darn  my  worsted 
stockings,  having  had  the  good  fortune  to  obtain  some  hanks  of  worsted 
from  the  wife  of  a  Scotch  serjeant  in  Grahamstown,  after  vainly  seeking 
that  article  in  the  shops  of  all  the  haberdashers  in  the  town.  While  we 
were  thus  employed,  Captain  Codrington  and  Mr.  Fichett  rode  up  to  us, 
and  seemed  very  much  amused  at  our  situation.  Having  drunk  a  cup 
of  coffee  with  me,  Fichett  and  Codrington  returned  home,  previously 
engaging  me  to  dine  with  them,  as  I  had  resolved  to  retrace  my  steps 
and  try  another  line  of  country. 

About  eleven  A.M.  the  Hottentots  returned  with  our  oxen,  when,  with 
the  united  efforts  of  the  teams,  we  succeeded  in  extricating  my  now 
lightened  waggon.     The  two  oxen  I  purchased  from  Thompson,  though 


CHANGE  OF  KOUTE.  31 

well-favoured,  proving  indolent  in  a  heavy  pull,  I  exchanged  them  with 
Leonard  for  the  liberty  to  pick  any  two  out  of  his  span,  giving  him  a 
sovereign  to  boot.  His  team  consisted  of  twelve  tough  little  red  Zoolah 
oxen,  from  the  district  of  Natal,  which,  like  the  Albany  cattle,  are 
termed  "  Zuur-feldt."  This  colonial  phrase  is  applied  to  all  oxen  bred 
and  reared  near  the  sea-coast,  in  districts  where  the  majority  of  the 
grass  is  sour,  Those  from  about  the  frontiers  of  the  colony,  or  any- 
where beyond  the  Orange  River,  are  termed  "  Sweet-feldt "  oxen.  The 
Zuur-feldt  cattle  possess  a  superiority  over  the  Sweet-feldt  as  trek-oxen, 
inasmuch  as  they  thrive  on  any  pasture,  whereas  the  latter  die  if  de- 
tained more  than  a  few  days  in  Zuur-feldt  districts. 

Leonard's  account  of  the  road  before  me  was  so  bad,  his  waggon 
having  been  upset  four  times  on  the  preceding  day,  that  I  resolved  to 
put  about,  and  adopt  the  route  through  De  Bruin's  Pobrt,  which  had 
been  recommended  to  me  by  the  drivers  of  the  Somerset  orange- 
waggons.  By  this  route  I  should  avoid  Somerset,  and  pass  through  the 
village  of  Cradock.  My  plans  at  this  time  were,  in  the  first  instance,  to 
proceed  direct  to  the  Thebus  Flats,  where  black  wildebeest  and  spring- 
bok were  reported  to  abound ;  and  thence  to  march  upon  Colesberg,  a 
village  on  the  frontiers,  where  I  expected  to  meet  my  cousin  Colonel 
Campbell,  of  the  91st,  by  whose  advice,  in  a  great  measure,  I  intended 
to  be  guided  in  my  future  movements. 

We  now  reloaded  my  waggon,  made  all  fast,  and,  having  put  every- 
thing in  order,  Leonard  and  I  journeyed  together  to  Fichett's  farm, 
where  I  once  more  took  up  my  quarters  for  the  night.  While  actively 
busied  with  my  oxen,  I  saw  to-day  for  the  first  time  the  honey-bird. 
This  extraordinary  little  bird,  which  is  about  the  size  of  a  chaffinch,  and 
of  a  light-gray  colour,  will  invariably  lead  a  person  following  it  to  a 
wild-bees'  nest.  Chattering  and  twittering  in  a  state  of  great  excite- 
ment, it  perches  on  a  branch  beside  the  traveller,  endeavouring  by 
various  wiles  to  attract  his  attention;  and  having  succeeded  in  doing  so, 
it  flies  lightly  forward  in  a  wavy  course  in  the  direction  of  the  bees' 
nest,  alighting  every  now  and  then,  and  looking  back  to  ascertain  if  the 
traveller  is  following  it,  all  the  time  keeeping  up  an  incessant  twitter. 

When  at  length  it  arrives  at  the  hollow  tree,  or  deserted  white  ant's 
hill,  which  contains  the  honey,  it  for  a  moment  hovers  over  the  nest, 
pointing  to  it  with  its  bill,  and  then  takes  up  its  position  on  a  neigh- 
bouring branch,  anxiously  awaiting  its  share  of  the  spoil.  When  the 
honey  is  taken,  which  is  accomplished  by  first  stupifying  the  bees  by 
burning  grass  at  the  entrance  of  their  domicile,  the  honey -bird  will  often 
lead  to  a  second  and  even  to  a  third  nest.  The  person  thus  following  it 
ought  to  whistle.  The  savages  in  the  interior,  whilst  in  pursuit,  have 
several  charmed  sentences  which  they  use  on  the  occasion.  The  wild- 
bee  of  Southern  Africa  exactly  corresponds  with  the  domestic  garden- 
bee  of  England.  They  are  very  generally  diffused  throughout  every 
part  of  Africa — bees'-wax  forming  a  considerable  part  of  the  cargoes  of 
ships  trading  to  the  Gold  and  Ivory  Coasts,  and  the  deadly  district  of 
Sierra  Leone,  on  the  western  shores  of  Africa. 

Interesting  as  the  honey-bird  is,  and  though  sweet  be  the  stores  to 
which  it  leads,  I  have  often  had  cause  to  wish  it  far  enough,  as,  when 


32  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

following  the  warm  "  spoor  M  or  track  of  elephants,  I  have  often  seen 
the  savages,  at  moments  of  the  utmost  importance,  resign  the  spoor  of 
the  beasts  to  attend  to  the  summons  of  the  bird.  Sometimes,  however, 
they  are  "  sold,"  it  being  a  well-known  fact,  both  among  the  Hottentots 
and  tribes  of  the  interior,  that  they  often  lead  the  unwary  pursuer  to 
danger,  sometimes  guiding  him  to  the  midday  retreat  of  a  grizzly  lion, 
or  bringing  him  suddenly  upon  the  den  of  the  crouching  panther.  I  re- 
member on  one  occasion,  about  three  years  later,  when  weary  with 
warring  against  the  mighty  elephants  and  hippopotami  which  roam  the 
vast  forests  and  sport  in  the  floods  of  the  fair  Limpopo,  having  mounted 
a  pair  of  unwonted  shot-barrels,  I  sought  recreation  in  the  humbler  pur- 
suit of  quail-shooting.  While  thus  employed,  my  attention  was 
suddenly  invited  by  a  garrulous  honey-bird,  which  pertinaciously 
adhered  to  me  for  a  considerable  time,  heedless  of  the  reports  made  by 
my  gun. 

Having  bagged  as  many  quails  and  partridges  as  I  cared  about  shoot- 
ing, I  whistled  lustily  to  the  honey-bird,  and  gave  him  chase ;  after  fol- 
lowing him  to  a  distance  of  upwards  of  a  mile,  through  the  open  glades 
adjoining  the  Limpopo,  he  led  me  to  an  unusually  vast  crocodile,  who 
was  lying  with  his  entire  body  concealed,  nothing  but  his  horrid  head 
being  visible  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  his  eyes  anxiously  watch- 
ing the  movements  of  eight  or  ten  large  bull-buffaloes,  which,  in  seeking 
to  quench  their  thirst  in  the  waters  of  the  river,  were  crackling  through 
the  dry  reeds  as  they  cautiously  waded  in  the  deep  mud  that  a  recent 
flood  had  deposited  along  the  edge.  Fortunately  for  the  buffaloes,  the 
depth  of  the  mud  prevented  their  reaching  the  stream,  and  thus  the 
scaly  monster  of  the  river  was  disappointed  of  his  prey. 


CHAPTER  III. 


Fearful  Descent  of  De  Bruin's  Poort — District  lately  deserted  by  Elephants — Noble 
Forest-trees — The  Great  Fish  River — Cunning  Boers — Burning  effects  of  the 
Sun — The  Dutch  Noe's  Green  Tea  Ointment — Skill  of  the  Hottentots  in  "Tap- 
ping the  Admiral  " — Beautifully  Wooded  Country — The  Village  of  Cradock — 
South  African  Climate — Countless  Herds  of  Springbok — Mynheer  Pocheter — 
The  way  to  make  a  Friend  on  the  Thebus  Flats — Hendrick  Strydom — Hunting 
for  Springbok — Extraordinary  Migrations  of  these  Antelopes. 

My  trektow  having  been  destroyed  during  the  recent  struggles,  I  was 
glad  to  purchase  a  new  one  from  a  man  named  Mackenzie  in  Fichett's 
employ,  which  he  supplied  me,  together  with  a  strong  thornwood  yoke, 
for  £1.  On  leaving  the  farm  we  proceeded  in  an  easterly  course,  and 
struck  into  a  track  which  in  a  few  hours  led  us  into  the  high  road  lead- 
ing from  Grahamstown  to  Cradock.  Having  followed  this  road  for 
several  miles,  we  commenced  descending  through  the  De  Bruin's  Poort, 
where  the  road  winds,  in  a  deep,  narrow,  and  rugged  ravine,  through 
dense  evergreen  underwood,  in  its  descent  to  the  lower  ground  adjacent 
to  the  banks  of  the  Great  Fish  River.  This  poort,  or  mountain  pass, 
the  terror  of  waggon-drivers,  being  at  all  times  perilous  to  waggons,  was 


DE  BRUIN'S  POORT.  33 

in  the  present  instance  unusually  dangerous  and  impassable,  the  recent 
heavy  rains  having  entirely  washed  away  the  loose  soil  with  which  the 
colonists  had  been  in  the  habit  of  embanking  the  permanent  shelves  and 
ridges  of  adamantine  rock  over  which  the  waggons  must  necessarily 
pass,  while  they  had  at  the  same  time  undermined  an  immense  number 
of  large  masses  of  rocks  and  stones  which  had  hitherto  occupied  positions 
on  the  banks  above,  and  which  now  lay  scattered  along  the  rocky  way, 
presenting  an  apparently  insurmountable  barrier  to  our  further  progress. 

As  we  were  the  first  who  had  travelled  this  road  since  the  late  inunda- 
tions, it  had  not  undergone  the  slightest  repair,  which,  to  have  done 
properly,  would  have  required  the  labour  of  a  week.  Having  halted 
the  waggon,  and  descended  into  the  ravine  for  an  inspection,  accom- 
panied by  Kleinboy,  I  at  once  pronounced  it,  in  its  present  state,  to  be 
impassable.  Kleinboy,  however,  well  aware  that  he  would  not  be  called 
upon  to  pay  for  damages,  seemed  to  entertain  a  different  opinion, 
evidently  preferring  to  run  all  risks  to  encountering  the  Herculean 
labours  of  rolling  all  these  boulders  to  one  side. 

Accordingly,  having  made  up  our  minds  to  take  the  pass,  we  re- 
ascended  to  the  waggon,  and,  having  rheimed  or  secured  the  two  hind 
wheels  by  means  of  the  drag-chains,  Kleinboy  took  his  position  on  the 
box,  and  the  waggon  commenced  its  perilous  descent,  I  following,  in 
the  firm  expectation  every  moment  of  beholding  its  destruction.  Jolt- 
ing furiously  along,  it  crashed  and  jumped  from  rock  to  rock ;  at  one 
moment  the  starboard  hind  wheel  resting  on  a  projecting  ledge  of  rock 
several  feet  in  height,  and  the  front  wheel  on  the  same  side  buried  in  a 
deep  hollow,  and  next  moment  the  larboard  wheels  suddenly  elevated 
by  a  corresponding  mass  of  rock  on  the  opposite  side,  placing  the 
waggon  in  such  a  position  that  it  seemed  as  though  another  inch  must 
inevitably  decide  its  fate.  I  held  my  breath,  doubting  the  possibility 
of  its  regaining  the  horizontal  position.  Righting,  again,  however,  with 
fearful  violence  it  was  launched,  tottering  from  side  to  side,  down  the 
steep  stony  descent,  and  eventually,  much  to  my  astonishment,  the  pass 
was  won,  and  we  entered  upon  the  more  practicable  road  beneath. 

I  could  not  help  fancying  how  an  English-built  vehicle  would  have 
fared  in  a  similar  situation,  and  how  a  Brighton  coachman  would  have 
opened  his  eyes  could  he  have  seen  my  Cape  waggon  in  the  act  of 
descending  this  fine  specimen  of  a  colonial  waggon-road,  which  I  might 
aptly  compare  to  the  rugged  mountain-bed  of  some  Highland  river. 
Having  continued  our  journey  till  within  an  hour  of  sundown,  we  en- 
camped for  the  night.  The  country  through  which  we  had  passed  was 
densely  covered  with  one  vast  jungle  of  dwarfish  evergreen  shrubs  and 
bushes,  amongst  which  the  speck-boom  was  predominant.  This  species 
of  tree,  which  is  one  of  the  most  abundant  throughout  the  forests  and 
jungles  of  Albany  and  Caffraria,  is  utterly  unserviceable  to  man,  as  its 
pithy  branches,  even  when  dead,  are  unavailable  for  fuel.  It  is,  how- 
ever, interesting,  as  constituting  a  favourite  food  of  the  elephants  which, 
about  twenty-five  years  ago,  frequented  the  whole  of  this  country  in 
large  herds.  The  footpaths  formed  through  successive  ages  by  the  feet 
of  these  mighty  animals  are  still  discernible  on  the  sides  and  in  the 
necks  of  some  of  the  forest-clad  hills  ;  and  the  skulls  and  larger  bones 


34  HUNTING  AND   SPOETING  ADVENTURES. 


of  many  are  at  this  moment  bleaching  in  some  of  the  forest-kloofs  or 
ravines  adjacent  to  the  sea  in  Lower  Albany. 

From  time  immemorial  these  interesting  and  stupendous  quadrupeds 
had  maintained  their  ground  throughout  these  their  paternal  domains, 
although  they  were  constantly  hunted,  and  numbers  of  them  were  slain, 
by  the  neighbouring  active  and  athletic  warriors  of  the  Amaponda 
tribes,  on  account  of  their  flesh — the  ivory  so  much  prized  among  civi- 
lised nations  being  by  them  esteemed  of  no  value,  the  only  purpose  to 
which  they  adapt  it  being  the  manufacture  of  rings  and  ornaments  for 
their  fingers  and  arms.  These  gallant  fellows,  armed  only  with  their 
assegais  or  light  javelins  of  their  own  manufacture,  were  in  the  constant 
habit  of  attacking  the  gigantic  animals,  and  overpowering  them  with 
the  accumulated  showers  of  their  weapons.  At  length,  however,  when 
the  white  lords  of  the  creation  pitched  their  camps  on  the  shores  of 
Southern  Africa,  a  more  determined  and  general  warfare  was  waged 
against  the  elephants  on  account  of  their  ivory,  with  the  more  destruc- 
tive engines  of  ball  and  powder. 

In  a  few  years,  those  who  managed  to  escape  from  the  hands  of  their 
oppressors,  after  wandering  from  forest  to  forest,  and  from  one  moun- 
tain-range to  another,  and  finding  that  sanctuary  there  was  none,  turned 
their  faces  to  the  north-east,  and  trekked  or  migrated  from  their  ances- 
tral jungles  to  lands  unknown.  A  small  remnant,  however,  remained ; 
and  these,  along  with  a  few  buffaloes,  koodoos,  and  one  solitary  black 
rhinoceros,  still  found  shelter  in  the  vast  jungles  of  the  Zuurberg  and 
Addo  bush  as  late  as  the  commencement  of  1849. 

When  the  colonists  first  settled  in  Albany  they  were  in  the  habit  of 
carrying  on  a  very  lucrative  traffic  with  the  chiefs  of  the  neighbouring 
Amaponda  tribes,  from  whom  they  obtained  large  quantities  of  ivory  in 
barter  for  beans,  brass  wire,  and  other  articles  of  little  value. 

Throughout  the  jungles  of  Albany  and  Caffraria,  but  more  particu- 
larly in  the  deep  kloofs  and  valleys,  many  varieties  of  noble  forest-trees 
are  found  of  considerable  size  and  great  beauty,  several  of  which  are 
much  prized  by  the  colonists  on  account  of  their  excellence  for  waggon- 
work  and  house-building ;  of  these  I  may  enumerate  the  yellow-wood 
tree,  the  wild  cedar,  the  stink-wood  tree,  and  the  black  and  the  white 
iron -wood  tree.  The  two  latter  are  remarkable  for  toughness  and  dura- 
bility, and  are  much  used  in  the  axletrees  of  waggons.  The  primitive 
system  of  wooden  axletrees  has  of  late  years  been  superseded  in  some 
districts  by  patent  iron  ones ;  many,  however,  still  use  and  prefer  the 
old  wooden  axletrees,  because  waggons  having  those  made  of  iron,  in 
steep  descents,  run  too  freely  after  the  team,  to  the  injury  of  the  two 
after-oxen ;  and,  further,  because  a  wooden  axle,  if  broken,  may  be 
replaced  in  any  remote  part  of  the  country ;  whereas  a  damaged  iron 
axletree  cannot  be  mended  even  by  the  skilful  smiths  throughout  the 
towns  and  villages  of  the  colony.  The  iron  axles  are  especially  apt  to 
be  broken  in  cold  frosty  mornings  during  the  winter,  when  a  waggon, 
immediately  after  being  set  in  motion,  has  to  pass  through  rough  ground 
before  the  friction  of  the  wheel  has  imparted  to  it  a  certain  degree  of 
heat. 

On  the  following  day  a  march  of  four  hours  brought  us  to  the  bank 


FISH  RIVER  DRIFT.  35 

of  the  Great  Fish  River,  having  crossed  an  extensively  open  glade 
covered  with  several  varieties  of  low  shrubs  and  grasses  and  rough 
heather.  Here  for  the  first  time  I  saw  and  shot  the  black  koran,  an 
excellent  game  bird,  allied  to  the  bustards,  so  abundant  throughout 
South  Africa.  Its  weight  corresponds  with  that  of  our  old  cock  grouse ; 
its  legs  and  neck  are  long  like  those  of  the  ostrich  ;  its  breast  and  back 
are  grey,  and  its  wings  black  and  white.  They  are  everywhere  to  be 
met  with  where  the  country  is  at  all  level  and  open  :  when  disturbed 
they  take  wing  and  fly  over  the  plain  in  circles,  much  after  the  manner 
of  the  green  plover  or  peewit,  uttering  a  harsh  grating  cry.  The  best 
method  of  getting  within  range  is  to  use  a  horse,  and  ride  round  them 
in  a  circle,  gradually  contracting  it.  To  this  open  glade,  whose  name  I 
have  forgotton,  the  Nimrods  about  Grahamstown  often  resort,  and  in- 
dulge in  the  exciting  sport  of  wild  boar  and  porcupine  hunting.  This 
"  chasse  "  is  conducted  on  bright  moonlight  nights,  with  a  gathering  of 
rough  strong  dogs,  the  hunters  being  armed  with  a  bayonet  or  spear, 
with  which  they  despatch  the  quarry  when  brought  to  bay. 

I  found  the  Great  Fish  River,  as  I  had  anticipated,  still  flooded  and 
impassable  to  waggons.  It  was,  however,  ebbing  rapidly,  and  appa- 
rently would  be  fordable  on  the  morrow.  During  the  previous  heavy 
rains,  which  were  said  not  to  have  been  equalled  for  twenty-seven  years, 
it  had  risen  to  an  immense  height,  and  everywhere  overflowed  its  banks. 
That  part  of  the  bank  which  formed  the  descent  and  ascent  of  the 
former  waggon-road  was,  as  a  matter  of  course,  entirely  swept  away,  a 
steep  wall  on  either  side  of  the  river  remaining  in  its  stead,  flanked  by 
a  bank  of  deep  and  slimy  mud.  An  immense  deal  of  manual  labour 
would  consequently  be  necessary  to  form  a  road,  by  cutting  down  these 
walls,  and  clearing  a  channel  through  the  mud,  before  a  waggon  could 
take  the  drift. 

Accordingly,  the  work  being  considerable,  I  thought  the  sooner  we 
set  about  it  the  better  ;  so  having  cooked  and  partaken  of  a  hot  tiffin, 
we  cast  loose  the  pickaxes,  spades,  and  shovels,  stripped  to  our  shirts, 
and,  half  wading,  half  swimming,  succeeded  in  crossing  the  river,  where, 
having  laboured  hard  till  sundown,  and  constructed  a  famous  piece  of 
road,  we  considered  our  task  on  that  side  as  completed.  Early  on  the 
following  morning  we  resumed  our  labours  on  our  side  of  the  river,  and 
about  ten  A.M.  our  path  was  finished.  A  party  of  Boers  now  hove  in 
sight  with  three  waggons,  which  they  outspanned  on  the  opposite  bank, 
and  drove  their  oxen  into  the  neighbouring  hills  to  graze.  Presently 
observing  us  preparing  to  inspan,  they  beckoned  to  me  to  hold  a  con- 
ference with  them  across  the  stream,  the  object  of  which  was  to  dissuade 
me  from  taking  the  drift  until  their  oxen  should  return,  under  pretence 
of  assisting  us,  but,  in  reality,  fearing  that  we  would  stick  fast,  and  that 
they  should  be  forced  to  assist  us,  since,  in  the  event  of  our  waggon 
sticking  before  their  oxen  came  up,  they  would  be  unable  to  pass  us 
until  we  were  extricated.  I  saw  the  move  with  half  an  eye,  and 
instantly  ordered  my  men  to  inspan  with  all  possible  despatch ;  when 
we  got  safely  through  the  river  and  up  the  opposite  bank,  which  was 
much  more  than  I  had  anticipated. 

It  was  a  fearful  pull  for  the  poor  oxen  ;  the  waggon  stuck  fast  three 


36  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

times,  and  was  within  a  hair's  breadth  of  being  upset.  The  water  just 
came  up  to  the  bottom  boards,  but  fortunately  did  not  wet  any  part  of 
the  cargo.  The  Boers  seemed  much  surprised  at  the  success  of  our  ven- 
ture, as  they  always  entertain  the  idea  that  an  Englishman's  oxen  must 
be  inferior  to  theirs,  but  this  idea  is  grossly  erroneous,  the  reverse  being 
invariably  the  case.  A  Boer  will  hardly  ever  flog  his  oxen  when  they 
require  it,  which,  though  it  may  shock  the  ear  of  my  fair  reader,  my 
regard  to  truth  compels  me  to  state  is  indispensable,  oxen  being  of  a 
strange,  stubborn  disposition,  perfectly  different  from  horses.  This,  at 
a  future  period,  I  had  cause  to  ascertain  practically,  when,  forsaken  by 
my  followers  on  the  borders  of  the  Kalihari  desert,  I  was  necessitated 
daily  to  inspan  and  drive  my  own  oxen,  which  I  did,  with  the  assistance 
of  a  small  Bushman,  for  a  distance  of  about  a  thousand  miles. 

It  is  a  common  thing  to  see  a  Boer's  oxen  stick  fast  on  a  very  moder- 
ate ascent,  with  not  above  1000  lbs.  or  2000  lbs.  weight  in  the  waggon, 
where  an  Albany  transport-rider  would  pass  him  with  a  load  of  6000 
lbs.  behind  his  bullocks  ;  and  it  is  by  no  means  uncommon  to  see  these 
Albany  men  discharging  a  load  of  even  8000  lbs.  weight  at  the  stores  of 
the  Grahamstown  merchants,  which  they  have  transported  with  a  team 
of  fourteen  oxen  through  the  hilly  country  betwixt  that  town  and  Algoa 
Bay.  After  crossing  the  river,  the  road  continued  good  for  about  three 
miles,  but  after  that  we  found  it  washed  away  in  many  places.  Once 
we  stuck  fast,  and  were  obliged  to  dig  the  waggon  out,  and  broke  our 
trektow  three  times  in  extricating  it.  In  other  places  we  were  obliged 
to  leave  the  usual  road,  and  cut  a  new  way  through  the  thorny  trees 
with  our  axes,  the  road  being  cut  up  with  watercourses  six  and  eight 
feet  deep.  At  midday  we  outspanned  for  two  hours,  to  rest  the  oxen, 
on  the  farm  of  a  Mr.  Corrie.  Here  we  met  a  "  smouse,"  or  trader, 
coming  down  the  country  with  a  drove  of  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 
very  large  well-conditioned  oxen.  He  offered  me  a  span  at  £3  a  head  ; 
they  were  worth  £12  each  in  England.  I  felt  the  sun  rather  oppres- 
sive. 

About  two  P.M.  we  inspanned,  and,  having  ascended  a  long  and  very 
steep  hill,  we  entered  upon  a  new  line  of  country,  of  wide  undulating 
open  plains  of  rank  waving  grass,  dotted  over  with  the  mud-built  habi- 
tations of  white  ants.  We  held  on  for  three  hours  after  sundown,  and 
halted  for  the  night  at  an  uninhabited  dilapidated  mansion,  in  which  we 
lighted  a  fire  and  cooked  our  dinner.  Having  secured  our  oxen  on  the 
yokes,  instead  of  permitting  them  to  graze  during  the  night,  we  were 
enabled  to  march  next  morning  some  time  before  the  break  of  day ;  and 
as  the  rising  sun  gradually  unveiled  the  landscape,  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  beholding  for  the  first  time  several  small  herds  of  springboks  scat- 
tered over  the  plain.  This  exquisitely  graceful  and  truly  interesting 
antelope  is  very  generally  diffused  throughout  Southern  Africa,  and  is 
more  numerous  there  than  any  other  variety ;  it  is  very  nearly  allied  to 
the  ariel  gazelle  of  Northern  Africa,  and  in  its  nature  and  habits  re- 
minded me  of  the  saisin  of  India. 

A  few  herds  of  springboks  are  still  to  be  met  with  on  the  plains  in 
the  district  of  Somerset,  on  which  I  had  now  entered;  but  as  this  is  one 
of  the  nearest  districts  to  the  abodes  of  men  where  this  species  remains, 


GKEEN  TEA  OINTMENT.  37 

it  is  of  course  much  hunted,  and  is  annually  becoming  scarcer.  The 
gentlemen  farmers  of  the  surrounding  districts  keep  a  good  breed  of 
greyhounds,  with  which  they  have  excellent  sport  in  pursuing  these 
antelopes.  On  beholding  the  springboks  I  instantly  directed  my  two 
horses  to  be  saddled,  and,  desiring  the  Hottentots  to  proceed  to  a  farm 
in  advance  and  there  outspan,  I  rode  forth  with  Cobus,  taking  my  two- 
grooved  rifle  to  endeavour  to  obtain  a  shot.  I  found  them  extremely 
wild,  and  after  expending  a  considerable  deal  of  ammunition,  firing  at 
distances  of  from  six  to  eight  hundred  yards,  I  rejoined  my  waggons, 
which  I  found  drawn  up  on  a  Dutchman's  farm,  and  left  the  antelopes 
scathless. 

Owing  to  the  exposure  to  the  sun  while  working  at  the  Fish  Eiver 
drift  on  the  preceding  days,  and  also  to  having  discarded  coat,  waist- 
coat, and  neckcloth  since  leaving  Grahamstown,  my  arms,  neck  and 
shoulders  were  much  swollen  and  severely  burnt  and  blistered,  causing 
me  much  pain,  and  at  night  preventing  me  from  sleeping.  The  kind- 
hearted  noe,  or  lady  of  the  farm,  commiserating  my  condition,  and  wish- 
ing to  alleviate  my  pain,  informed  me  that  she  had  an  excellent  recipe 
for  sunburn,  which  she  had  often  successfully  administered  to  her  hus- 
band and  sons.  One  of  the  chief  ingredients  of  the  promised  balsam 
was  green  tea,  which  was  to  be  reduced  to  powder,  of  which  she  directed 
me  to  send  her  a  little  by  one  of  my  servants.  I  do  not  know  what  the 
other  components  might  have  been,  but  I  well  know  that,  on  applying 
the  ointment  to  the  raw  and  swollen  parts,  it  stung  me  as  though  it  had 
been  a  mixture  of  salt  and  vinegar,  giving  me  intense  pain,  and  causing 
me  to  hop  and  dance  about  like  one  demented,  and  wish  the  Boer  noe 
and  her  ointment  in  the  realms  of  Pluto,  to  the  infinite  delight  and  mer- 
riment of  my  sympathising  Hottentots. 

A  peculiar  expression  in  the  eyes  of  these  gentlemen  and  their  general 
demeanour,  inclined  me  to  think  that  their  potations  had  consisted  of 
some  more  generous  beverage  than  water  during  the  morning's  march  ; 
and  on  examining  one  of  my  liquor-cases,  I  found  that  I  was  minus  a 
bottle  and  a  half  of  gin  since  yesterday. 

This  is  a  common  failing  among  this  monkey -faced  race,  nineteen  in 
every  twenty  Hottentots  being  drunkards,  and  they  have,  moreover,  not 
the  slightest  scruple  of  conscience  as  to  who  is  the  lawful  proprietor  of 
liquor,  so  long  as  they  can  get  access  to  it.  No  locks  nor  bolts  avail ; 
and  thus  on  the  Bay-road,  the  high  road  between  Algoa  Bay  and 
Grahamstown,  a  constant  system  of  tapping  the  admiral  is  maintained. 

In  this  pursuit  these  worthies,  from  long  practice,  have  arrived  at 
considerable  skill,  and  it  is  usually  accomplished  in  the  following  man- 
ner : — If  the  liquor  is  in  a  cask,  having  removed  one  of  the  hoops,  a 
gimlet  is  inserted,  when,  a  bucket  or  two  of  spirit  having  been  drawn 
off,  the  aperture  is  filled  with  a  plug,  and,  the  hoop  being  replaced,  no 
outward  mark  is  visible.  The  liquor  thus  stolen,  if  missed,  and  inquiries 
issued,  is  very  plausibly  set  down  to  the  score  of  leakage.  A  great  deal 
of  gin  arrives  in  Grahamstown  in  square  case-bottles,  packed  in  slight 
red  wooden  cases.  To  these  the  Hottentots  devote  marked  attention, 
owing  to  the  greater  facility  of  getting  at  them.  Having  carefully  re- 
moved the  lid  and  drained  several  of  the  bottles,  either  by  drinking 


38  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


them  or  pouring  their  contents  into  the  water-casks  belonging  to  the 
waggons,  they  either  replace  the  liquor  with  water  and  repack  the  case 
again  as  they  found  it,  or  else  they  break  the  bottles  which  they  have 
drained  and  replace  them  in  the  case,  at  the  same  time  taking  out  a 
quantity  of  the  chaff  in  which  they  had  been  packed.  This  is  done  to 
delude  the  merchant  into  the  idea  that  the  loss  of  liquor  occurred  owing 
to  breakage  from  original  bad  packing.  The  risk  and  damage  entailed 
on  the  proprietors  of  waggons  and  owners  of  merchandise  from  the 
drivers  indulging  in  such  a  system,  on  the  precarious  roads  of  the  colony, 
may  be  imagined. 

After  breakfast  we  continued  our  march,  when  I  was  again  tempted 
to  saddle  up  and  give  chace  to  a  troop  of  springboks,  one  of  which  I 
shot  :  we  continued  our  march  until  sundown,  when  we  halted  beside  a 
pool  of  rain-water.  Here  we  found  some  young  Boers  and  Hottentots, 
belonging  to  a  neighbouring  farm,  actively  employed  in  digging  out  a 
nest  of  wild  bees;  several  of  them  had  their  eyes  nearly  closed  from  the 
stings  which  they  had  received.  The  spoils  of  the  "bike,"  however,  re- 
paid their  pains  by  twenty  pounds  of  honey.  On  approaching  the  nest 
a  large  cluster  of  bees  chose  my  sunburnt  arm  as  a  place  of  rendezvous, 
from  which  I  could  not  remove  them  until  I  had  obtained  a  bunch  of 
burning  grass. 

Our  march  on  the  following  day  lay  through  a  mountainous  country 
abounding  with  rich  pasture,  covered  in  many  places  with  picturesque 
thorny-mimosa  trees,  detached  and  in  groups,  imparting  to  the  country 
the  appearance  of  an  English  park.  In  the  forenoon  we  halted  for  a 
couple  of  hours  in  a  broad  well-wooded  hollow,  where  I  found  abun- 
dance of  bustard,  guinea  fowl,  black  koran,  partridge,  and  quail.  At 
sundown  we  encamped  at  a  place  called  Daka-Boer's  Neck,  on  high 
ground,  where  the  road  crosses  a  bold  precipitous  mountain-range.  The 
mountain  road  along  which  we  trekked  the  following  morning,  was  ex- 
tremely steep  and  rugged  :  on  my  right,  high  above  me,  I  observed  a 
herd  of  upwards  of  a  hundred  horses,  consisting  chiefly  of  brood  mares 
and  their  foals,  pasturing  on  the  hill-side.  Three  more  marches  brought 
us  to  the  village  of  Cradock,  which  we  reached  at  dawn  of  day  on  Saturday 
morning  the  2nd  of  October,  having  twice  again  had  occasion  to  cross 
the  Great  Fish  River. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  was  bold,  mountainous,  and 
barren,  excepting  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  were  adorned  with 
groves  of  mimosa,  willow,  and  whitethorn,  clad  with  a  profusion  of  rich 
yellow  blossoms  yielding  a  powerful  and  fragrant  perfume.  It  was  now 
the  spring  of  the  year,  and,  this  season  having  been  peculiarly  favoured 
with  rains,  a  vernal  freshness  robed  these  sometimes  arid  regions,  and  I 
consider  that  I  first  saw  them  under  very  favourable  circumstances.  On 
the  northern  bank,  at  one  of  the  drifts  where  we  crossed  the  Fish  River, 
I  observed  the  dry  dung  in  an  old  sheep-kraal  burning.  It  was  smoul- 
dering away  after  the  manner  of  Scotch  peat ;  and  on  my  return  from 
the  interior  about  eighteen  months  after,  on  my  way  to  Grahamstown, 
the  dunghill  was  still  burning,  and  had  been  burning  all  the  time,  and 
nevertheless  only  two-thirds  were  consumed.  The  immense  time  which 
these  dunghills  require  to  burn  is  very  singular.     It  is  quite  a  common 


BAEEEN  STONY  MOUNTAINS.      39 

occurrence  for  one  of  them  to  burn  for  three  or  four  years  ;  and  I  have 
been  informed  by  several  respectable  farmers  of  Lower  Albany,  on 
whose  veracity  I  could  rely,  that  in  that  district  one  of  these  "mid- 
dens," as  they  are  termed  in  Scotland,  burnt  for  seven  years  before  it 
was  consumed.  The  heaviest  and  most  protracted  rains  seem  to  affect 
them  but  little,  rarely  if  ever  extinguishing  them. 

Cradock  is  a  pretty  little  village  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
Great  Fish  Eiver,  by  wich  it  is  supplied  with  water  and  the  gardens 
irrigated.  It  is  inhabited  by  Dutch  and  English,  and  a  goodly  sprink- 
ling of  Hottentots,  Mozambiques,  and  Fingoes.  The  principal  street  is 
wide  and  adorned  with  shady  trees  on  every  side,  among  which  I  ob- 
served lots  of  peach-trees  covered  with  green  fruit.  The  houses  are 
large  and  well  built,  generally  of  brick,  some  in  the  old  Dutch  and  some 
in  the  English  style.  Each  house  has  got  a  considerable  garden  attached 
to  it :  these  are  tastefully  laid  out  and  contain  all  the  vegetables  most 
used  in  the  English  kitchen.  Apples,  pears,  oranges,  quinces,  nectarines, 
and  grapes  abound.  The  vision  is  bounded  on  every  side  by  barren, 
arid,  rocky  hills  and  mountains.  I  marched  right  through  the  town  and 
outspanned  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  it,  and  after  breakfast  I 
re-entered  the  village  on  foot  to  purchase  necessaries  for  myself  and 
servants.  Numbers  of  Dutch  Boers  with  their  wives  and  families  were 
assembling  to  hold  their  Nachmahl  or  sacrament. 

About  eleven  a.m.  we  inspanned,  and  continued  our  journey  about  five 
miles,  crossing  the  Great  Fish  Eiver  twice,  when  I  halted  for  some  hours 
upon  its  bank  on  account  of  my  oxen,  the  grass  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
town  having  been  very  bare.  This  was  the  fifth  and  last  time  that  we 
crossed  the  Great  Fish  Eiver.  Here  about  a  dozen  waggons  passed  us 
on  their  way  to  Cradock,  containing  Dutch  Boers  with  their  fraus  and 
families.  Several  of  these  were  horse-waggons,  drawn  by  eight  and  ten 
horses  in  each  waggon,  harnessed  two  abreast,  and  drawing  by  straps 
across  their  breasts  instead  of  collars.  These  straps  are  generally  manu- 
factured of  the  skin  of  the  lion  when  it  is  to  be  obtained,  that  being 
reckoned  by  the  Boers  to  be  tougher  and  more  enduring  than  any  other. 
These  long  teams  are  well  managed  and  dexterously  driven  by  the 
Boers,  one  man  holding  the  reins  and  another  the  whip.  In  the  after- 
noon I  again  inspanned,  and  continued  my  march  till  sundown.  The 
road  since  I  left  Cradock  had  improved,  and  was  now  fine  and  level, 
leading  through  a  wide,  open,  undulating  strath  along  the  north-eastern 
bank  of  the  Fish  Eiver.  The  surrounding  country  presented  in  every 
direction  endless  chains  of  barren  stony  mountains ;  the  bold  range  of 
the  Ehinaster  Bergs  standing  forth  in  grand  relief  to  the  westward;  not 
a  tree  to  be  seen,  except  a  few  thorny  mimosas  in  some  of  the  more 
favoured  hollows  of  the  hills  and  along  the  banks  of  the  river ;  the 
country  covered  with  grass  and  heaths,  dwarfish  shrubs,  and  small 
thorny  bushes. 

The  sun  during  the  day  was  powerful,  but  a  cool  breeze  prevailed 
from  the  south.  Ever  since  I  left  Grahamstown  the  weather  had  been 
very  pleasant,  and  seldom  oppressively  hot,  saving  in  the  low-lying 
hollows  where  the  breezes  are  not  felt.  South  Africa,  though  its  climate 
is  dry  and  sultry,  is  nevertheless  very  salubrious,  being  surrounded  on 


40   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


three  sides  by  the  sea,  off  which  a  healthy  breeze  prevails  throughout 
the  greater  part  of  the  year.  At  certain  seasons,  however,  northerly 
breezes  prevail :  these  are  termed  by  the  colonists  "  hot  winds."  On 
these  occasions  the  wind  feels  as  though  it  were  blowing  off  a  furnace  in 
a  glass-foundry,  being  heated  in  its  passage  over  the  burning  sands  of  the 
Great  Kalihari  desert. 

In  Cradock  I  engaged  another  Hottentot,  named  Jacob,  in  the 
capacity  of  after-rider.  Having  followed  the  course  of  the  Fish  River 
for  a  distance  of  about  nine  miles,  our  road  inclined  to  the  right  in  a 
more  northerly  direction,  and  we  here  bade  the  stream  a  final  adieu. 
Two  more  marches  through  a  succession  of  wide,  undulating,  sterile 
plains,  bounded  on  all  sides  by  bleak  and  barren  mountains,  brought 
us  to  the  borders  of  the  immense  flats  surrounding  the  Thebus  Mountain. 

Having  followed  along  the  eastern  bank  an  insignificant  little  stream 
dignified  by  the  appellation  of  the  Brak  River,  I  arrived  at  the  farm  of 
Mynheer  Besta,  a  pleasant  hospitable  Boer,  and  a  field-cornet  of  the  dis- 
trict, which  means  a  sort  of  resident  magistrate.  Here  we  halted  to 
breakfast,  and  Besta,  who  is  a  keen  sportsman,  entertained  me  with 
various  anecdotes  and  adventures  which  had  occurred  to  him  during  the 
earlier  days  of  his  sporting  career  in  Albany,  where  he  had  once  resided. 
He  informed  me  that  the  black  wildebeest  and  springbok  were  extremely 
numerous  on  the  plains  immediately  beyond  his  farm,  which  made  me 
resolve  to  saddle  up  and  go  in  quest  of  them  as  soon  as  I  had  break- 
fasted. The  flesh  of  these  animals  forms  one  of  the  chief  articles  of  food 
among  the  Boers  and  their  servants  who  inhabit  the  districts  in  which 
they  are  abundant ;  and  the  skulls  and  horns  of  hundreds  of  black 
wildebeest  and  springbok  were  to  be  seen  piled  in  heaps  and  scattered 
about  the  outhouses  of  the  farm.  Adjoining  the  house  was  a  well- 
watered  garden  with  very  green  trees  and  corn  in  it,  which  formed  a 
most  pleasing  contrast  with  the  surrounding  barren  country. 

Having  directed  my  men  to  proceed  to  the  next  farm  along  the  banks 
of  the  Brak  River,  I  rode  forth  with  Cobus  and  held  a  northerly  course 
across  the  flats.  I  soon  perceived  herds  of  springbok  in  every  direction, 
which,  on  my  following  at  a  hard  gallop,  continued  to  join  one  another 
until  the  whole  plain  seemed  alive  with  them.  Upon  our  crossing  a 
sort  of  ridge  on  the  plain  I  beheld  the  whole  country  as  far  as  my  eye 
could  reach  actually  white  with  springboks,  with  here  and  there  a  herd 
of  black  gnoos  or  wildebeest,  prancing  and  capering  in  every  direction, 
whirling  and  lashing  their  white  tails  as  they  started  off  in  long  files  on 
our  approach.  Having  pursued  them  for  many  hours,  and  fired  about  a 
dozen  shots  at  these  and  the  springboks  at  distances  of  from  four  to  six 
hundred  yards,  and  only  wounded  one,  which  I  lost,  I  turned  my  horse's 
head  for  camp. 

The  evening  set  in  dark  and  lowering,  with  rattling  thunder  and  vivid 
flashes  of  lightning  on  the  surrounding  hills.  I  accordingly  rode  hard 
for  my  waggon,  which  I  just  reached  in  time  to  escape  a  deluge  of  rain 
which  lasted  all  night.  The  Brak  River  came  down  a  red  foaming 
torrent,  but  fell  very  rapidly  in  the  morning.  This  river  is  called  Brak 
from  the  flavour  of  its  waters,  which,  excepting  in  the  rainy  seasons,  are 
barely  palatable.     My  day's  sport,  although  unsuccessful,  was  most  ex- 


ABUNDANCE  OF  SPRINGBOKS.  41 


citing.  I  did  not  feel  much  mortified  at  my  want  of  success,  for  I  was 
well  aware  that  recklessly  jaging  after  the  game  in  the  manner  in  which 
I  had  been  doing,  although  highly  exhilarating,  was  not  the  way  to  fill 
the  bag.  Delight  at  beholding  so  much  noble  game  in  countless  herds 
on  their  native  plains  was  uppermost  in  my  mind,  and  I  felt  that  at  last 
I  had  reached  the  borders  of  those  glorious  hunting-lands  the  accounts 
of  which  had  been  my  chief  inducements  to  visit  this  remote  and  deso- 
late corner  of  the  globe ;  and  I  rejoiced  that  I  had  not  allowed  the 
advice  of  my  acquaintances  to  influence  my  movements. 

As  I  rode  along  in  the  intense  and  maddening  excitement  of  the 
chase,  I  felt  a  glad  feeling  of  unrestrained  freedom,  which  was  common 
to  me  during  my  career  in  Africa,  and  which  I  had  seldom  so  fully  ex- 
perienced ;  and  notwithstanding  the  many  thorns  which  surrounded 
my  roses  during  the  many  days  and  nights  of  toil  and  hardship  which 
I  afterwards  encountered,  I  shall  ever  refer  to  those  times  as  by  far  the 
brightest  and  happiest  of  my  life.  On  the  following  morning  I  rode 
through  the  Brak  River  to  visit  Mynheer  Pocheter,  with  the  intention 
of  buying  some  horses  from  him,  but  he  had  none  to  dispose  of.  I  met 
the  old  fellow  coming  in  from  the  "feldt,"  with  his  long  single-barrelled 
roer  and  enormous  flint-lock,  with  the  usual  bullock's  horn  powder-flask 
dangling  at  his  side.  He  had  gone  out  with  his  Hottentot  before  the 
dawn  of  day,  and  taken  up  a  position  in  a  little  neck  in  an  uneven  part 
of  the  plain,  through  which  the  springboks  were  in  the  habit  of  passing 
before  sunrise. 

In  places  of  this  description  the  Boers  build  little  watching-places 
with  flat  stones,  from  which  they  generally  obtain  a  shot  every  morning 
and  evening,  and  at  such  distances  as  to  insure  success.  To  use  their 
own  words,  "they  secure  a  buck  from  these  places,  skot  for  skot,"  mean- 
ing a  buck  for  every  shot.  On  this  occasion,  however,  our  friend  had 
been  unfortunate,  returning  without  venison,  although  I  had  heard  the 
loud  booming  of  his  "  roer  "  a  short  time  previously.  The  report  made 
by  these  unwieldy  guns  of  the  Boers,  charged  with  a  large  handful  of 
coarse  gunpowder,  is  to  be  heard  at  an  amazing  distance  through  the 
calm  atmosphere  of  these  high  table-lands ;  and  during  my  stay  on  the 
flats  adjoining  Thebus  Mountain,  scarcely  an  hour  elapsed  at  morning, 
noon,  or  eve,  but  the  distant  booming  of  some  Dutchman's  gun  saluted 
the  ear. 

Mynheer  Pocheter  asked  me  in  to  take  some  breakfast  with  him,  which 
I  did,  Cobus  acting  as  interpreter,  mine  host  not  understanding  a  word 
of  English,  and  I  not  having  at  that  time  acquired  the  Dutch  language, 
with  which  I  not  long  afterwards  became  thoroughly  conversant.  After 
breakfast  I  took  leave  of  Mynheer  Pocheter,  and  having  directed  the 
waggon  to  strike  out  of  the  direct  road  to  Colesberg,  and  hold  across 
country  to  the  abode  of  a  Boer  named  Hendrick  Strydom,  where  the 
game  was  represented  to  me  as  being  extremely  plentiful,  I  again  rode 
forth,  accompanied  by  Oobus,  to  wage  war  with  the  springboks.  We 
pricked  over  the  plain,  holding  an  easterly  course,  and  found,  as  yester- 
day, the  springboks  in  thousands,  with  here  and  there  a  herd  of  black 
wildebeest.  Finding  that  by  jaging  on  the  open  plain  I  could  not  get 
within  four  or  five  hundred  yards  of  them,  I  left  my  horses  and  after- 


42   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES 

rider,  and  set  off  on  foot  to  a  low  range  of  rocky  hills,  where  I  per- 
formed two  difficult  stalks  upon  a  springbok  and  a  wildebeest,  both  of 
which  I  wounded  severely,  but  lost.  When  stalking  in  upon  the 
springbok  I  took  off  my  shoes,  and  had  very  great  difficulty  in  finding 
them  again.  I  experienced  great  distress  from  thirst.  The  sun  was 
very  powerful,  and,  notwithstanding  the  heavy  rains  of  the  preceding 
evening,  a  drop  of  water  was  nowhere  to  be  found. 

In  the  afternoon  I  came  to  a  pool  of  mud ;  the  little  water  it  con- 
tained was  almost  boiling ;  I  was,  however,  most  thankful  to  find  it, 
and  tears  of  delight  came  into  my  eyes  on  discovering  it.  How 
trifling  was  this  to  the  trials  from  thirst  which  I  have  often  since 
undergone !  Shortly  after  this  I  fell  in  with  my  servant,  who, 
astonished  at  my  long  absence,  had  come  in  search  of  me  with  the 
horses.  I  was  right  glad  to  fall  in  with  him,  and,  having  got  into  the 
saddle,  I  rode  hard  across  the  plain  for  my  waggon.  On  my  way 
thither  I  took  up  a  position  behind  a  ridge,  and  directed  Cobus  to 
"  jag  "■  a  herd  of  springbok  towards  me,  which  he  did  most  successfully 
sending  upwards  of  a  hundred  of  them  right  in  my  teeth.  I  however 
was  still  unfortunate,  firing  both  barrels  into  the  herd  without  doing 
any  apparent  injury. 

On  reaching  my  waggon,  which  I  found  outspanned  at  the  desolate 
abode  of  Mynheer  Hendrick  Strydom,  I  took  a  mighty  draught  of  gin 
and  water,  and  then  walked,  followed  by  my  interpreter  carrying  a 
bottle  of  Hollands  and  glasses,  to  the  door  of  Strydom,  to  cultivate  the 
acquaintance  of  himself  and  frau,  and  wearing  the  garb  of  old  Gaul,  in 
which  I  generally  hunted  during  my  first  expedition,  to  the  intense 
surprise  of  the  primitive  Boers.  Shaking  Strydom  most  cordially  by 
the  hand,  I  told  him  that  I  was  a  "  Berg  Scott,"  or  mountain  Scotch- 
man, and  that  it  was  the  custom  in  my  country,  when  friends  met,  to 
pledge  one  another  in  a  bumper  of  spirits ;  at  the  same  time,  suiting  the 
action  to  the  word,  I  filled  him  a  brimming  bumper.  This  was  my 
invariable  practice  on  first  meeting  a  Boer.  I  found  it  a  never-failing 
method  of  gaining  his  good-will,  and  he  always  replied  that  the  Scotch 
were  the  best  people  in  the  world. 

It  is  a  strange  thing  that  Boers  are  rather  partial  to  Scotchmen, 
although  they  detest  the  sight  of  an  Englishman.  They  have  an  idea 
that  the  Scotch,  like  themselves,  were  a  nation  conquered  by  the  English, 
and  that,  consequently,  we  trek  in  the  same  yoke  as  themselves  ;  and 
further,  a  number  of  their  ministers  are  Scotchmen.  Hendrick  Strydom 
was  a  tall,  sunburnt,  wild-looking  creature,  with  light,  sandy  bair,  and 
a  long,  shaggy  red  beard.  He  was  a  keen  hunter,  and  himself  and 
household  subsisted,  in  a  great  measure,  by  the  proceeds  of  his  long 
single-barrelled  "  roer."  His  frau  was  rather  a  nice  little  woman,  with 
a  fresh  colour,  and  fine  dark  eyes  and  eyebrows ;  and  displayed  her 
good  taste  by  taking  a  fancy  to  me,  but  perhaps  the  tea  and  coffee 
which  she  found  I  bestowed  with  a  liberal  hand  might  account  for  her 
partiality. 

These  were  Boers  of  the  poorer  order,  and  possessed  but  little  of  this 
world's  goods.  Their  abode  was  in  keeping  with  their  means.  It  was 
a  small  mud  cottage,  with  a  roof  which  afforded  scanty  protection  from 


A   FINE    FAT    BUCK.  43 


the  heavy  periodical  rains.  The  fire  burnt  on  the  hearthstone,  and  a 
hole  in  the  roof  served  at  once  for  a  window  and  chimney.  The  rafters 
and  bare  mud  walls  were  adorned  with  a  profusion  of  skins  of  wild 
animals,  and  endless  festoons  of  "biltongue"  or  sun-dried  flesh  of  game. 
Green  fields  or  gardens  there  were  none  whatever ;  the  wild  Karroo 
plain  stretched  away  from  the  house  on  all  sides  ;  and  during  the  night 
the  springboks  and  wildebeests  pastured  before  the  door. 

The  servants  consisted  of  one  old  Bushman  and  his  wife,  and  the 
whole  of  their  worldly  possessions  were  an  old  waggon,  a  span  of  oxen, 
a  few  milk  cows,  and  a  small  herd  of  goats  and  sheep.  Strydom's 
revenue  seemed  principally  to  be  obtained  by  manufacturing  ashes,  with 
which  he  was  in  the  habit  of  loading  up  his  waggon  and  trekking  many 
days'  journey  into  other  districts,  where  he  sold  them  to  richer  Boers. 

The  manner  of  obtaining  this  ash  is  first  to  dig  up  the  bushes  and  col- 
lect them  on  the  plains.  There  they  are  left  until  sufficiently  dry  to 
burn,  when,  a  calm  day  being  selected,  they  are  set  on  fire,  and  the 
ashes  are  collected  and  stowed  away  in  large  sacks  made  of  the  raw 
skins  of  wildebeests  and  zebras,  when  they  are  fit  for  immediate  use. 
These  ashes  are  in  great  demand  amongst  all  the  Boers,  as  being  an  in- 
dispensable ingredient  in  the  manufacture  of  soap.  Every  Boer  in 
South  Africa  makes  his  own  soap.  There  is  a  low,  succulent,  green 
bush  from  which  the  ashes  are  obtained,  which  is  only  found  in  certain 
districts,  and  in  these  desolate  plains  it  was  very  abundant. 

Strydom,  having  sympathised  with  me  on  my  continued  run  of  ill-luck, 
remarked  that  it  was  quite  a  common  thing  when  "jaging"  on  the  prin- 
ciple which  I  had  followed.  He  said  that  he  was  aware  that  in  hunting 
on  that  system  an  immense  amount  of  ammunition  was  expended  with 
little  profit,  and  that  he,  being  a  poor  man,  very  rarely  indulged  in  it ; 
but  that  if  I  would  accompany  him  after  I  had  taken  my  coffee,  there 
being  still  about  two  hours  of  daylight,  he  would  show  me  his 
method,  and  he  thought  it  very  probable  that  we  should  get  a  buck 
that  evening.  Accordingly,  having  partaken  of  coffee,  Strydom  and  I 
stalked  forth  together  across  the  wild  and  desolate-looking  plain,  fol- 
lowed by  two  Hottentots,  large  herds  of  graceful  springboks  pasturing 
on  every  side.  He  placed  me  behind  a  small  green  bush,  about  eighteen 
inches  in  height,  upon  a  wide  open  flat,  instructing  me  to  lie  flat  on  my 
breast ;  and  having  proceeded  some  hundred  yards,  and  taken  up  a 
similar  position,  he  sent  the  Hottentots  round  a  herd  of  springboks 
which  were  feeding  on  the  plain,  to  endeavour  to  move  them  gently 
towards  us.  It  was  a  very  beautifnl  thing  altogether,  and  succeeded 
well.  The  whole  herd  came  on  slowly,  right  towards  where  I  lay,  until 
within  a  hundred  yards,  when  I  selected  a  fine  fat  buck,  which  I  rolled 
over  with  a  ball  in  the  shoulder.  This  was  the  first  fair  shot  that  I  had 
obtained  at  a  springbok  on  these  plains.  I  have  always  been  reckoned 
by  those  who  know  my  shooting  to  be  a  very  fair  rifle-shot,  whether 
standing  or  running,  but  I  do  not  profess  to  make  sure  work  much  be- 
yond one  hundred  and  ten  paces,  or  thereabouts. 

Two  days  before  this,  I  brought  down  a  koran  flying,  with  single  ball. 
Our  chances  for  this  evening  being  now  over,  and  night  setting  in,  I  re- 
turned to  the  farm  with  Strydom  in  high  spirits. 


44   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTUEES. 

The  springbok  is  so  termed  by  the  colonists  on  account  of  its  peculiar 
habit  of  springing  or  taking  extraordinary  bounds,  rising  to  an  incredible 
height  in  the  air  when  pursued.  The  extraordinary  manner  in  which 
springboks  are  capable  of  springing  is  best  seen  when  they  are  chased 
by  a  dog.  On  these  occasions  away  start  the  herd,  with  a  succession  of 
strange  perpendicular  bounds,  rising  with  curved  loins  high  into  the  air, 
and  at  the  same  time  elevating  the  snowy  folds  of  long  white  hair  on 
their  haunches  and  along  their  back,  which  imparts  to  them  a  peculiar 
fairy-like  appearance,  different  from  any  other  animal.  They  bound  to 
the  height  of  ten  or  twelve  feet,  with  the  elasticity  of  an  India-rubber 
ball,  clearing  at  each  spring  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  of  ground  with- 
out apparently  the  slightest  exertion.  In  performing  the  spring,  they 
appear  for  an  instant  as  if  suspended  in  the  air,  when  down  come  all 
four  feet  again  together,  and,  striking  the  plain,  away  they  soar  again 
as  if  about  to  take  flight.  The  herd  only  adopt  this  motion  for  a  few 
hundred  yards,  when  they  subside  into  a  light  elastic  trot,  arching  their 
graceful  necks  and  lowering  their  noses  to  the  ground,  as  if  in  sportive 
mood.  Presently  pulling  up,  they  face  about,  and  reconnoitre  the  ob- 
ject of  their  alarm.  In  crossing  any  path  or  waggon-road  on  which  men 
have  lately  trod,  the  springbok  invariably  clears  it  by  a  single  surpris- 
ing bound ;  and  when  a  herd  of  perhaps  many  thousands  have  to  cross 
a  track  of  the  sort,  it  is  extremely  beautiful  to  see  how  each  antelope 
performs  this  feat,  so  suspicious  are  they  of  the  ground  on  which  their 
enemy,  man,  has  trodden.  They  bound  in  a  similar  manner  when  pas- 
sing to  leeward  of  a  lion,  or  any  other  animal  of  which  they  entertain 
an  instinctive  dread. 

The  accumulated  masses  of  living  creatures  which  the  springboks  ex- 
hibit on  the  greater  migrations  is  utterly  astounding,  and  any  traveller 
witnessing  it  as  I  have,  and  giving  a  true  description  of  what  he  has 
seen,  can  hardly  expect  to  be  believed,  so  marvellous  is  the  scene. 

They  have  been  well  and  truly  compared  to  the  wasting  swarms  of 
locusts,  so  familiar  to  the  traveller  in  this  land  of  wonders.  Like  them 
they  consume  every  green  thing  in  their  course,  laying  waste  vast  dis- 
tricts in  a  few  hours,  and  ruining  in  a  single  night  the  fruits  of  the  far- 
mer's toil.  The  course  adopted  by  the  antelopes  is  generally  such  as 
to  bring  them  back  to  their  own  country  by  a  route  different  from  that 
by  which  they  set  out.  Thus  their  line  of  march  sometimes  forms  some- 
thing like  a  vast  oval,  or  an  extensive  square,  of  which  the  diameter 
may  be  some  hundred  miles,  and  the  time  occupied  in  this  migration 
may  vary  from  six  months  to  a  year. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


A  Bustard  shot — Flight  of  Locusts — Quagga  Shooting  in  the  Dark — Curious  Mis- 
take— Ostriches — A  Sportsman  napping — Leave  Strydom's  Residence  in  quest  of 
Wildebeests — Wildebeest  Shooting — Meeting  with  a  Brother  Officer — Proceed 
to  Colesberg — Additions  to  Equipments. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  morning  of  the  6th,  while  I  was  yet  in  bed, 
Hendrick  Strydom  and  his  frau  were  standing  over  my  fire,  alongside 


OSTEICHES.  45 


of  my  waggon,  with  a  welcome  supply  of  sweet  milk,  and  hurrying  on 
the  indolent  Hottentots  to  prepare  my  breakfast,  and  rouse  their  sloth- 
ful master — the  earliest  dawn  being,  as  he  affirmed,  the  best  time  to  go 
after  the  springboks.  On  hearing  their  voices  I  rose,  and  having  break- 
fasted, we  shouldered  our  "roers,"  walked  about  a  mile  across  the  plain, 
and  took  up  positions  behind  two  very  low  bushes,  about  three  hun- 
dred yards  apart,  and  instructed  our  Hottentots  to  endeavour  to  drive 
the  springboks  towards  us.  We  had  two  beats,  but  were  unlucky  both 
times,  each  of  us  wounding  and  losing  a  springbok. 

In  the  evening  we  went  out  again  to  hunt  on  the  same  principle,  on 
a  very  wide  flat  to  the  west  of  his  house,  where  we  lay  down  behind 
very  low  bushes,  in  the  middle  of  the  bucks.  We  lay  there  on  our 
breasts  for  two  hours,  with  herds  of  springboks  moving  all  round  us, 
our  Hottentots  manoeuvring  in  the  distance.  One  small  troop  came 
within  shot  of  me,  when  I  sent  my  bullet  spinning  through  a  graceful 
doe,  which  bounded  forward  a  hundred  yards,  and,  staggering  for  a 
moment,  fell  over  and  expired.  A  little  after  this,  I  suddenly  perceived 
a  large  paow  or  bustard  walking  on  the  plain  before  me.  These  birds 
are  very  wary  and  difficult  to  approach.  I  therefore  resolved  to  have  a 
shot  at  him,  and  lay  like  a  piece  of  rock  until  he  came  within  range, 
when  I  sent  a  bullet  through  him.  He  managed,  however,  to  fly  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  when  he  alighted ;  and  on  going  up  to  the  place 
half  an  hour  after,  I  found  him  lying  dead,  with  his  head  stuck  into  a 
bush  of  heath. 

Strydom  had  two  family  shots,  and  brought  down  with  each  a  well- 
conditioned  buck.  In  high  good  humour  with  our  success,  we  now  pro- 
ceeded to  gralloch  or  disembowel  the  quarry ;  after  which,  each  of  us 
shouldering  a  buck,  we  returned  home  in  heavy  marching  order.  On 
the  following  day  I  had  the  pleasure  of  beholding  the  first  flight  of 
locusts  that  I  had  seen  since  my  arrival  in  the  colony.  We  were  stand- 
ing in  the  middle  of  a  plain  of  unlimited  length,  and  about  five  miles 
across,  when  I  observed  them  advancing.  On  they  came  like  a  snow- 
storm, flying  slow  and  steady,  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the.  ground. 
I  stood  looking  at  them  until  the  air  was  darkened  with  their  masses, 
while  the  plain  on  which  we  stood  became  densely  covered  with  them. 
Far  as  my  eye  could  reach — east,  west,  north,  and  south — they  stretched 
in  one  unbroken  cloud ;  and  more  than  an  hour  elapsed  before  their 
devastating  legions  had  swept  by.  I  was  particularly  struck  with  this 
most  wonderful  and  truly  interesting  sight ;  and  I  remember  at  the  time 
my  feeling  was  one  of  self-gratulation  at  having  visited  a  country  where 
I  could  witness  such  a  scene.  On  this  day  and  on  the  morrow  Strydom 
and  I  continued  to  wage  successful  war  against  the  springboks.  We 
crossed  the  small  stream  called  the  Thebus  Eiver,  and  hunted  on  the 
plains  to  the  east.  On  one  occasion  Hendrick  brought  down  two  fat 
bucks  at  one  shot,  which  he  assured  me  was  not  an  uncommon  event 
with  him. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th,  Strydom  and  I  having  resolved  over  night 
to  go  in  quest  of  a  troop  of  ostriches  which  his  Hottentot  reported 
frequenting  the  plains  immediately  adjacent  to  the  Thebus  Mountain, 

3 


46    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


we  started  our  Hottentots  two  hours  before  the  dawn  of  day ;  and  after 
an  early  breakfast  we  saddled  up,  and  rode  direct  for  the  Thebus 
Mountain.  This  remarkable  mountain,  which  I  shall  ever  remember  as 
the  leading  feature  on  the  plains  where  I  first  really  commenced  my 
African  hunting,  is  of  peculiar  shape,  resembling  a  cone  depressed  at 
the  apex,  and  surmounted  by  a  round  tower.  It  is  also  remarkable  as 
being  considerably  higher  than  the  surrounding  mountains,  with  which 
the  plains  are  bounded  and  intersected.  As  we  rode  along  a  balmy 
freshness  prevaded  the  morning  air.  We  passed  through  herds  of 
thousands  of  springboks,  with  small  herds  of  wildebeest  scattered 
amongst  them.  I  fired  two  or  three  very  long  shots  without  success. 
Strydom,  however,  was  more  fortunate.  He  fired  into  a  herd  of  about 
a  hundred  bucks  at  three  hundred  yards,  and  hit  one  fine  old  buck  right 
in  the  middle  of  the  forehead,  the  ball  passing  clean  through  his  skull. 
We  hid  him  in  a  hole  in  the  ground,  and  covered  him  with  bushes,  and 
then  rode  on  to  our  Hottentots,  whom  we  found  waiting  beside  a  small 
fountain  in  a  pass  formed  by  a  wide  gap  in  a  low  range  of  hills  situated 
between  two  extensive  plains  which  were  thickly  covered  with  game. 
I  took  up  my  position  in  a  bush  of  rushes  in  the  middle  of  the  pass,  and 
remained  there  for  upwards  of  eight  hours,  during  which  our  boys  were 
supposed  to  be  endeavouring  to  drive  the  game  towards  us. 

The  Boer  took  up  the  best  pass  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  my  right. 
Before  we  had  been  an  hour  at  our  passes,  the  boys  drove  up  four 
beautiful  ostriches,  which  came  and  stood  within  fifty  yards  of  Strydom, 
but,  alas  !  he  was  asleep.  About  this  time  I  was  busy  trying  to  remem- 
ber and  practise  a  childish  amusement  which  once  delighted  me  as 
much  as  rifle-shooting — namely,  making  a  cap  of  rushes — when,  on 
suddenly  lifting  up  my  eyes,  I  saw  standing  within  eighty  yards  of  me 
about  a  dozen  beautiful  springboks,  which  were  coming  up  to  the  pass 
behind  me.  I  snatched  up  my  rifle,  and,  lying  flat  on  my  breast,  I  sent 
a  bullet  through  the  best  buck  in  the  troop,  smashing  his  shoulder.  He 
ran  about  fifty  yards,  and  fell  dead.  I  unfortunately  left  him  lying 
exposed  in  the  pass,  the  consequence  of  which  was  that  three  other 
troops  of  springboks,  which  were  coming  up  as  he  had  come,  were 
turned  to  the  right-about  by  his  carcase. 

It  was  amusing  to  see  the  birds  and  beasts  of  prey  assembling  to  dis- 
pute the  carcase  with  me.  First  came  the  common  black  and  white 
carrion-crow,  then  the  vultures ;  the  jackals  knew  the  cry  of  the  vul- 
tures, and  they  too  came  sneaking  from  their  hiding-places  in  the  rocks 
and  holes  of  the  ant-bear  in  the  plains,  to  share  in  the  feast,  whilst  I  was 
obliged  to  remain  a  quiet  spectator,  not  daring  to  move,  as  the  game 
was  now  in  herds  on  every  side  of  me,  and  I  expected  to  see  ostriches 
every  moment.  Presently  a  herd  of  wildebeest  came  thundering  down 
upon  me,  and  passed  within  shot.  I  put  a  bullet  into  one  of  these,  too 
far  behind  the  shoulder,  which,  as  is  always  the  case  with  deer  and 
antelopes,  did  not  seem  to  affect  him  in  the  slightest  degree.  In  the 
afternoon  we  altered  our  positions,  and  sent  the  boys  to  drive  the  plain 
beside  which  I  had  been  sitting  all  day.  The  quantity  of  bucks  which 
were  now  before  our  eyes  beat  all  computation.     The  plain  extended, 


GREAT  DESTRUCTION  OF  GAME.  47 

without  a  break,  until  the  eye  could  not  discern  any  object  smaller  than 
a  castle.  Throughout  the  whole  of  this  extent  were  herds  of  thousands 
and  tens  of  thousands  of  springboks,  interspersed  with  troops  of  wilde- 
beest. The  boys  sent  us  one  herd  of  about  three  hundred  springboks, 
into  which  Strydom  let  fly  at  about  three  hundred  yards,  and  turned 
them  and  all  the  rest. 

It  was  now  late  in  the  day,  so  we  made  for  home,  taking  up  the  buck 
which  Strydom  had  shot  in  the  morning.  As  we  cantered  along  the 
flats,  Strydom,  tempted  by  a  herd  of  springboks,  which  were  drawn  up 
together  in  a  compact  body,  jumped  off  his  horse,  and,  giving  his  ivory 
sight  an  elevation  of  several  feet,  let  drive  at  them,  the  distance  being 
about  five  hundred  yards.  As  the  troop  bounded  away,  we  could  dis- 
tinguish a  light-coloured  object  lying  in  the  short  heath,  which  he  pro- 
nounced to  be  a  springbok,  and  on  going  up  we  found  one  fine  old  doe 
lying  dead,  shot  through  the  spine.  This  day,  and  every  day  since  I 
arrived  at  these  flats,  I  was  astonished  at  the  number  of  skeletons  and 
well-bleached  skulls  with  which  the  plains  were  covered.  Thousands  of 
skulls  of  springbok  and  wildebeest  were  strewed  around  wherever  the 
hunter  turned  his  eye. 

The  sun  was  extremely  powerful  all  day,  but,  being  intent  on  the 
sport,  I  did  not  feel  it,  until  I  found  my  legs  burnt ;  my  dress  as  usual 
was  the  kilt,  with  a  grey  stalking  cap.  On  reaching  home  the  following 
day  a  large  party  of  natives,  belonging  to  the  chief  Moshesh,  arrived  on 
the  farm.  These  poor  men  were  travelling  in  quest  of  employment. 
Numbers  of  natives  annually  visit  the  colony,  and  work  for  the  Boers, 
making  stone  enclosures  for  their  cattle,  and  large  dams  or  embank- 
ments across  little  streams  in  the  mouths  of  valley,  for  the  purpose  of 
collecting  water  in  the  rainy  season,  for  the  supply  of  their  flocks  and 
herds  during  the  protracted  droughts  of  summer.  They  are  paid  for 
their  labour  with  young  cows  or  she-goats.  The  recent  rains  having 
washed  away  the  embankment  of  a  dam  situated  in  a  distant  range  of 
hills,  on  the  borders  of  the  farm,  Strydom  engaged  these  men  to  repair 
it.  The  vicinity  of  the  dam  being  a  favourite  haunt  for  quaggas,  and 
it  being  necessary  that  Strydom  should  go  there  on  the  morrow,  we 
resolved  to  hunt  in  the  neighbouring  district,  in  which  were  situated 
some  high  and  rugged  hills. 

Accordingly  next  day  we  sallied  forth,  and  I  ascended  to  one  of  their 
highest  pinnacles,  where  I  managed  to  shoot  a  rhode-raebok.  Joining 
Strydom  shortly  afterwards,  we  hunted  over  another  range  of  the  same 
hills,  where  we  fell  in  with  three  quaggas  and  other  game.  Night  was 
now  fast  setting  in,  so  we  descended  from  the  hills,  and  made  for  home. 
Cantering  along,  we  observed  what  we  took  to  be  a  herd  of  quaggas  and 
a  bull  wildebeest  standing  in  front  of  us,  upon  which  we  jumped  off"  our 
horses,  and,  bending  our  bodies,  approached  them  to  fire. 

It  was  now  quite  dark,  and  it  was  hard  to  tell  what  sort  of  game  we 
were  going  to  fire  at.  Strydom,  however,  whispered  to  me  that  they 
were  quaggas,  and  they  certainly  appeared  to  be  such.  His  gun  snapped 
three  times  at  the  wildebeest,  upon  which  they  all  set  off"  at  a  gallop. 
Strydom,  who  was  riding  my  stallion,  let  go  his  bridle  when  he  ran  in  to 


48   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

fire,  taking  advantage  of  which  the  horse  set  off  at  a  gallop  after  them. 
I  then  mounted  "The  Cow,"  and  after  riding  hard  for  about  a  mile  I  came 
up  to  them.  They  were  now  standing  still,  and  the  stallion  was  in  the 
middle  of  them.  I  could  make  him  out  by  his  saddle;  so,  jumping  off  my 
horse  in  a  state  of  intense  excitement,  I  ran  forward  and  fired  both 
barrels  of  my  two-groved  rifle  into  the  quaggas,  and  heard  the  bullets 
tell  loudly.  They  then  started  off,  but  the  stallion  was  soon  once  more 
fighting  in  the  middle  of  them.  I  was  astonished  and  delighted  to  re- 
mark how  my  horse  was  able  to  take  up  their  attention,  so  that  they 
appeared  heedless  of  the  reports  of  my  rifle. 

In  haste  I  commenced  loading,  but  to  my  dismay  I  found  that  I  had 
left  my  loading-rod  with  Hendrick.  Mounting  "  The  Cow,"  I  rode 
nearer  to  the  quaggas,  and  was  delighted  to  find  that  they  allowed  my 
horse  to  come  within  easy  shot.  It  was  now  very  dark,  but  I  set  off  in 
the  hope  to  fall  in  with  Hendrick  on  the  wide  plain,  and  galloped  along 
shouting  with  all  my  might,  but  in  vain.  I  then  rode  across  the  plain 
for  the  hill  to  try  to  find  some  bush  large  enough  to  make  a  ramrod.  In 
this,  by  the  greatest  chance,  I  succeeded,  and,  being  provided  with  a 
knife,  I  cut  a  good  ramrod,  loaded  my  rifle,  and  rode  off  to  seek  the 
quaggas  once  more.  I  soon  fell  in  with  them,  and,  coming  within  shot, 
fired  at  them  right  and  left,  and  heard  both  bullets  tell,  upon  which 
they  galloped  across  the  plain  with  the  stallion  still  after  them.  One 
of  them,  however,  was  very  hard  hit,  and  soon  dropped  astern.  The 
stallion  remained  to  keep  him  company. 

About  this  time  the  moon  shone  forth  faintly.  I  galloped  on  after 
the  troop,  and,  presently  coming  up  with  them,  rode  on  one  side,  and 
dismounting,  and  dropping  on  my  knee,  I  sent  a  bullet  through  the 
shoulder  of  the  last  quagga ;  he  staggered  forward,  fell  to  the  ground 
with  a  heavy  crash,  and  expired.  The  rest  of  the  troop  charged  wildly 
around  him,  snorting  and  prancing  like  the  wild  horses  in  Mazeppa,  and 
then  set  off  at  full  speed  across  the  plain.  I  did  not  wait  to  bleed  the 
quagga,  but,  mounting  my  horse,  I  galloped  on  after  the  troop,  but 
could  not,  however,  overtake  them.  I  now  returned  and  endeavoured 
to  find  the  quagga  which  I  had  last  shot,  but  owing  to  the  darkness,  and 
to  my  having  no  mark  to  guide  me  on  the  plain.  I  failed  to  find  him.  I 
then  set  off  to  try  for  the  quagga  which  had  dropped  astern  with  the 
stallion  ;  having  searched  some  time  in  vain,  I  dismounted  and  laid  my 
head  on  the  ground,  when  I  made  out  two  dark  objects  which  turned 
out  to  be  what  I  sought.  On  my  approaching,  the  quagga  tried  to 
make  off,  when  I  sent  a  ball  through  his  shoulder,  which  laid  him  low. 
On  going  up  to  him  in  the  full  expectation  of  inspecting  for  the  first 
time  one  of  these  animals,  what  was  my  disappointment  and  vexation  to 
find  a  fine  brown  gelding,  with  two  white  stars  on  his  forehead  !  The 
truth  now  flashed  upon  me  ;  Strydom  and  I  had  both  been  mistaken  ; 
instead  of  quaggas,  the  waggon-team  of  a  neighbouring  Dutchman  had 
afforded  me  my  evening's  shooting  ! 

I  caught  my  stallion  and  rode  home,  intending  to  pay  for  the  horses 
which  I  had  killed  and  wounded  ;  but  on  telling  my  story  to  Strydom, 
with  which  he  seemed  extremely  amused,  he  told  me  not  to  say  a  word 


NEW  GAME.  49 


about  it,  as  the  owners  of  the  horses  were  very  avaricious,  and  would 
make  me  pay  treble  their  value,  and  that  if  I  kept  quiet  it  would  be 
supposed  they  had  been  killed  either  by  lions  or  wild  Bushmen.  Stry- 
dom  and  I  continued  hunting  springboks  till  the  17th,  during  which 
time  we  enjoyed  a  constant  run  of  good  luck,  and  so  fascinating  was  the 
sport  that  I  felt  as  though  I  never  could  tire  of  it. 

It  was,  indeed,  a  country  where  a  person  who  loved  rifle-shooting 
ought  to  have  been  content.  Every  morning,  on  opening  my  eyes,  the  first 
thing  which  I  saw,  without  raising  my  head  from  the  pillow,  was  herds  of 
hundreds  of  springboks  grazing  before  me  on  the  plains.  On  the  17th  an 
old  friend  of  Strydom's,  a  Boer  from  Magalisberg,  outspanned  on  the 
farm.  He  had  been  to  G-rahamstown  with  a  load  of  ivory,  and  was  re- 
turning home  with  supplies  of  tea,  coffee,  clothing,  etc.,  sufficient  for 
two  year's  consumption.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  wife  and  tw©  tall 
gawky-looking  daughters,  and  half  a  dozen  noisy  geese  which  were 
secured  in  a  cage  on  the  trap  of  the  waggon.  This  Boer  informed  me 
that  I  could  get  all  the  rarer  animals,  which  I  wished  to  shoot,  in  his 
vicinity,  namely,  sable  antelope,  roan  antelope,  eland,  waterbuck,  koo- 
doo, pallah,  elephant,  black  and  white  rhinoceros,  hippopotamus,  giraffe, 
buffalo,  lion,  etc.  He  told  me  he  had  shot  elephants  there  with  tusks 
weighing  100  lbs.  each,  and  upwards  of  seven  feet  in  length.  He  ad- 
vised me  not  to  visit  that  country  before  the  end  of  April,  as  my  horses 
would  assuredly  die  of  a  never-failing  distemper  which  prevails  in  the 
interior,  within  a  certain  latitude,  during  the  summer  months. 

Being  anxious  now  to  devote  my  attention  more  particularly  to  black 
wildebeests,  of  which  I  had  not  yet  secured  a  specimen,  I  resolved  to 
take  leave  of  my  friend  Hendrick  Strydom,  and  proceed  to  the  plains 
beyond  the  Thebus  Mountain,  where  he  informed  me  they  abounded. 
Accordingly,  about  9  P.M.,  having  ihspanned  by  moonlight,  I  took  leave 
of  my  friend,  having  presented  him  with  a  coffee-mill  and  some 
crockery,  to  which  his  f rau  had  taken  a  fancy,  and  also  with  a  supply  of 
coarse  gunpowder,  which  is  to  a  Boer  a  most  acceptable  gift.  We  held 
for  the  Thebus  Mountain,  steering  across  the  the  open  plains  and  fol- 
lowing no  track,  with  springboks  and  wildebeests  whistling  and  bellow- 
ing on  every  side  of  us.  About  midnight  we  halted  by  a  fountain  near 
the  pass  where  a  few  days  before  I  had  lain  in  ambush  for  eight  hours, 
and,  as  it  was  probable  that  the  oxen  would  wander  during  the  night, 
we  secured  them  on  the  yokes.  Two  of  my  oxen  and  both  my  horses 
were  reported  missing  when  we  left  the  farm,  and  I  had  left  Cobas  to 
seek  for  them. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day  my  two  servants  joined  me,  bringing 
with  them  the  lost  oxen,  but  having  failed  to  find  the  steeds.  At  night 
I  took  up  a  position  in  an  old  shooting-hole  beside  the  vley,  to  watch 
for  wildebeests.  Several  jackals,  wildebeests,  quaggas,  and  hyaenas 
came  to  drink  during  the  night,  out,  not  being  able  to  see  the  sight  of 
my  rifle,  I  did  not  fire.  Here  I  remained  until  the  bright  star  of  morn- 
ing had  risen  far  above  the  horizon,  and  day  was  just  beginning  to 
dawn  when,  gently  raising  my  head  and  looking  round,  I  saw,  on  one 
side  of  me,  four  wildebeests,  and  on  the  other  side  ten.     They  were 


50  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


coming  to  drink ;  slowly  and  suspiciously  they  approached  the  water, 
and,  having  convinced  themselves  that  all  was  right,  they  trotted  boldly 
up  and  commenced  drinking.  Selecting  the  finest  bull,  I  fired,  and  sent 
a  bullet  through  his  shoulder,  when,  splashing  through  the  water,  he 
bounded  madly  forward,  and,  having  run  about  a  hundred  yards,  rolled 
over  in  the  dewy  grass.  I  did  not  show  myself,  other  game  being  in 
sight,  but  lay  still  in  the  hole.  In  about  an  hour  an  old  springbok  fed 
up  to  within  three  hundred  yards  of  me,  and  continued  browsing  there 
for  a  considerable  time.  As  no  more  wildebeests  seemed  to  be  approach- 
ing, and  as  I  was  very  hungry,  I  put  up  my  sight  and  took  a  cool,  calcu- 
lating aim  at  him,  and  sent  the  ball  through  the  middle  of  his  shoulder. 
I  then  left  my  hole,  and,  having  inspected  the  wildebeest  bull,  which 
was  a  noble  specimen,  I  walked  up  to  my  waggon  and  sent  the  boys  to 
cut  up  the  venison  and  preserve  the  head  carefully. 

On  the  following  morning  I  woke  as  day  dawned,  and  held  for  my 
hole  beside  the  vley,  but  had  not  gone  two  hundred  yards  round  the 
hillock  when  I  saw  an  old  springbok  feeding,  which  I  stalked,  and  broke 
his  fore-leg.  He  went  off  towards  the  waggon,  when  the  boys  slipped 
"  Gauger  "  (one  of  my  greyhounds),  who  at  once  ran  into  him  and 
pulled  him  down.  Having  lain  about  an  hour  at  the  vley,  two  old 
wildebeests  approached  up  wind,  and,  suspecting  the  ground,  described 
a  wide  semicircle,  like  our  red-deer,  I  wounded  one  of  them,  but  he  did 
not  drop.  I  however  managed  to  send  a  ball  through  the  shoulder  of 
the  other,  when  he  ran  several  hundred  yards,  whisking  his  long  white 
tail  as  if  all  right,  and  suddenly  rolled  over  in  full  career.  His  skin  had 
a  delicious  smell  of  the  grass  and  wild  herbs  on  which  these  animals  lie 
and  feed.  On  proceeding  to  my  waggon,  I  found  all  my  men  asleep. 
Having  gralloched  the  wildebeest,  we  bore  him  bodily  to  the  waggon  on 
the  "lechteruit,"  which  is  a  bar  of  hard  wood  used  in  greasing  the 
waggon- whc  els,  when  I  immediately  set  about  curing  the  head,  it  being 
a  very  fine  one. 

On  the  following  morning  Cobus  returned,  having  found  my  two 
horses.  While  taking  my  breakfast  I  observed  a  gentleman  approach- 
ing on  horseback  ;  this  was  Mr.  Paterson,  an  officer  of  the  91st,  a 
detachment  of  which  was  then  quartered  at  Colesberg.  Lieutenant 
Borrow,  a  brother  officer  of  mine,  had  intrusted  me  with  the  care  of  a 
rifle  which  he  was  sending  to  Mr.  Paterson,  and,  as  I  had  been  a  long 
time  on  the  road,  he  had  now  come  to  look  after  it.  He  was  a  keen 
sportsman,  and  I  had  much  pleasure  in  meeting  so  agreeable  a  person  in 
the  wilderness.  Having  joined  me  in  my  rough  breakfast  with  a  true 
hunter's  appetite,  we  rode  forth  together  to  look  for  a  wildebeest  I  had 
wounded  in  the  morning,  expecting  to  find  him  dead.  On  reaching  the 
ground  we  found  five  small  herds  of  wildebeests  charging  about  the 
plain,  and  for  a  long  time  could  not  discover  the  wounded  one  ;  at 
length  I  perceived  an  old  bull  with  his  head  drooping,  which  I  at  once 
pronounced  to  be  my  friend.  On  observing  him  we  dismounted  and 
watched  him  for  a  short  time.  The  others  inclined  to  make  of,  but 
seemed  unwilling  to  leave  him.  Being  now  convinced  that  this  was  the 
wildebeest  we  sought,  we  determined  to  give  him  chase,  and  try  to  ride 


LARGE    VULTURES.  51 

into  him  ;  but,  just  as  we  had  come  to  this  resolution,  he  fell  violently 
to  the  ground,  raising  a  cloud  of  dust.  On  riding  up  to  him  we  found 
him  dead. 

Paterson  and  I  then  made  for  the  vley,  and  had  not  proceeded  two 
hundred  yards  when,  on  looking  back,  I  saw  about  thirty  large  vultures 
standing  on  the  wildebeest,  which  in  a  very  short  space  of  time  they 
would  have  devoured.  On  the  morrow  Paterson  left  me  and  rode  back 
for  Colesberg,  having  first  extracted  a  promise  that  I  would  follow  him 
within  three  days.  I  accordingly  hunted  until  that  time  had  expired, 
when  I  reluctantly  inspanned  and  marched  upon  Colesberg.  Three  long 
marches  brought  us  to  the  farm  of  a  Boer  named  Penar,  who  had  been 
recommended  to  me  as  having  a  good  stamp  of  horses,  and  as  being 
reasonable  in  his  prices.  I  was  however  disappointed  with  his  stud, 
and,  finding  him  exorbitant  in  his  prices,  no  business  was  transacted. 
The  country  continued  much  the  same ;  wide  Karroo  plains,  bounded 
by  abrupt  rocky  mountains.  One  more  long  march  brought  us  within 
five  miles  of  Colesberg,  where  I  halted  for  the  night. 

On  the  27th,  having  taken  an  early  breakfast,  we  trekked  into  Coles- 
berg, where,  having  chosen  a  position  for  my  camp,  I  outspanned  and 
took  up  my  quarters  with  Paterson.  The  village  of  Colesberg  is  so 
called  from  a  conspicuous,  lofty  table-mountain  in  its  immediate  vicinity, 
which  takes  its  name  from  a  former  governor  of  the  colony.  The  town 
is  situated  in  a  confined  hollow,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  low  rocky 
hills.  The  formation  of  these  rocks  is  igneous,  and  the  way  in  which 
they  are  distributed  is  very  remarkable.  Large  and  shapeless  masses 
are  heaped  together  and  piled  one  above  another,  as  if  by  the  hand  of 
some  mighty  giant  of  the  olden  times.  The  town  is  well  supplied  with 
water  from  a  strong  fountain  which  bursts  from  the  base  of  one  of  these 
rocky  hillocks  above  the  level  of  the  town,  and  by  which  the  small  gar- 
dens adjoining  the  houses  are  irrigated.  Abundance  of  water  is  the 
only  advantage  that  the  situation  can  boast  of. 

In  the  town  are  several  large  stores,  from  which  the  Boers  of  the 
surrounding  districts  can  obtain  every  necessary  article  in  their  domes- 
tic economy.  Numbers  of  these  farmers  attend  the  market  weekly  with 
their  waggons,  bringing  in  the  produce  of  their  farms  and  gardens  ;  and, 
on  sacramental  occasions,  which  happen  four  times  every  year,  the  town 
is  inundated  with  Boers,  who  bring  in  their  families  in  horse-waggons. 
Owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of  the  country,  troops  were  then  stationed 
at  Colesberg.  The  garrison  consisted  of  about  two  hundred  men  of  the 
91st,  under  command  of  my  cousin  Colonel  Campbell,  and  one  company 
of  the  Cape  mounted  Rifles,  commanded  by  Captain  Donovan.  Coles- 
berg was  in  those  days  a  pleasant  quarter,  as  there  was  not  much  pipe- 
clay, and  very  good  shooting  could  be  obtained  within  a  few  hours  of 
cantonment. 

In  the  forenoon  we  had  some  some  rifle  practice  at  a  large  granite 
stone  above  the  town,  which  the  privates  of  the  91st  were  wont  to 
pepper  on  ball-practice  days.  On  this  occasion  I  saw  some  very  good 
shooting  by  Campbell,  Yarborough,  Bailey,  and  Paterson,  all  officers  of 
the  91st,  and  about  the  four  best  shots  on  the  frontier.      These  four 


52  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

Nimrods  had  a  short  time  previously  boldly  challenged  any  four  Dutch- 
men of  the  Graaf  Reinet  or  Colesberg  districts  to  shoot  against  them. 
The  challenge  was  accepted  by  four  Dutchmen,  who  of  course  got 
"jolly  well  licked." 

After  spending  a  few  days  very  pleasantly  with  the  garrison,  I 
resolved  to  hunt  on  and  about  the  frontiers  until  the  end  of  March,  at 
which  time  the  horse  distemper  begins  to  subside,  when  I  proposed 
starting  on  an  elephant-hunting  expedition  into  the  more  remote  dis- 
tricts of  the  far  interior.  In  Colesberg  I  purchased,  by  the  kind 
recommendation  of  Captain  Donovan,  a  second  waggon  of  the  cap-tent 
kind,  which  turned  out  to  be  an  unusually  good  one.  Its  price  was 
£50.  I  also  purchased  an  excellent  span  of  black  and  white  oxen  from 
a  Dutch  blacksmith  in  the  town.  From  Donovan  I  bought  a  dark- 
brown  horse,  which  I  named  Colesberg.  His  price  was  300  dollars,  and 
he  was  well  worth  double  that  sum,  for  a  better  steed  I  never  crossed. 
I  purchased  from  a  Boer  in  the  town  another  horse,  well  known  to  the 
garrison  by  the  sobriquet  of  the  "  Immense  Brute."  He  was  once  the 
property  of  Captain  Christie  of  the  91st ;  when  on  one  occasion  having 
wandered,  an  advertisement  appeared  in  one  of  the  frontier  papers 
relative  to  an  "  immense  brute  "  in  the  shape  of  a  tall  bay  horse,  the 
property  of  Captain  Christie,  etc.,  etc.,  and  ever  since  he  had  been  dis- 
tinguished by  this  elegant  appellation.  I  exchanged  my  brown  stallion 
with  Colonel  Campbell  for  au  active  grey,  which  I  considered  better 
adapted  to  my  work.  Glass  was  at  this  time  at  a  premium  in  Colesberg, 
every  window  in  the  town  having  been  smashed  by  a  recent  hailstorm. 
I  loaded  up  my  new  waggon  with  barley,  oats,  and  forage  for  my  horses, 
they  having  very  hard  work  before  them — hunting  the  oryx,  upon 
which  I  was  more  immediately  bent,  being  more  trying  to  horses  than 
any  other  sport  in  South  Africa. 

My  intention  was  to  revisit  Colesberg  in  four  or  five  months,  and 
refit,  preparatory  to  starting  for  the  far  interior.  I  left  the  skulls  and 
specimens  of  natural  history  which  I  had  already  collected  in  the  charge 
of  my  friend  Mr.  Dickson,  a  merchant  in  Colesberg.  During  my  stay 
iu  Colesberg  my  men  were  in  a  constant  state  of  beastly  intoxication, 
and  gave  me  much  trouble,  and  my  oxen  and  horses  were  constantly 
reported  in  the  "  skit-kraal "  or  pound.  I  engaged  one  more  Hottentot, 
named  John  Stofolus,  as  driver  to  the  new  waggon.  He  was  an  active 
stout  little  man,  and  very  neat-handed  at  stuffing  the  heads  of  game, 
preserving  specimens,  or  any  other  little  job  which  I  might  give  him  to 
do.  He  was,  however,  extremely  fond  of  fighting  with  his  comrades, 
and  was  ever  boasting  of  his  own  prowess ;  but  when  his  courage  was 
put  to  the  proof  in  assisting  me  to  hunt  the  more  dangerous  animals,  he 
was  found  woefully  deficient. 


CHAPTER   V. 


Departure  from  Colesberg — Jaging  Sprinkbok — Vast  Herds  of  Game — Swarms  of 
Flies — Oology — A  Nomad  Boer's  Encampment — Anecdote  of  the  Gemsbok — 
Cobus  rides  down  a  splendid  old  Bull  Gemsbok — A  Night  in  the  Desert — 
Patersoil  arrives — Bushmen — Their  extraordinary  Raids  across  the  Desert. 


THE    VULTURES    AGAIN.  53 

On  the  evening  of  the  2nd  of  December  with  considerable  difficulty  I 
collected  my  drunken  servants,  my  oxen  and  horses,  and  taking  leave 
of  my  kind  entertainers,  I  trekked  out  of  Colesberg,  steering  west  for 
the  vast  Karroo  plains,  where  the  gemsbok  were  said  to  be  still  abun- 
dant. It  was  agreed  that  Campbell  should  follow  me  on  the  second 
day  to  hunt  springbok  and  black  wildebeest,  in  a  district  through  which 
I  was  to  travel ;  and  Paterson  had  applied  for  a  fortnight's  leave,  with 
the  intention  of  joining  me  in  the  gemsbok  country,  and  enjoying  along 
with  me,  for  a  few  days,  the  exciting  sport  of  "jagging  "  that  antelope. 
I  did  not  proceed  very  far  that  evening,  my  men  being  intoxicated,  and 
having  several  times  very  nearly  capsized  the  waggons.  I  halted  shortly 
after  sundown,  when,  all  the  work  with  the  oxen  and  horses  falling 
upon  me,  and  no  fuel  being  at  hand,  I  was  obliged  to  content  myself  by 
dining  on  a  handful  of  raw  meal  and  a  glass  of  gin  and  water.  On  the 
following  day  we  performed  two  long  marches,  crossing  the  Sea-Cow 
River,  and  halted  as  it  grew  dark  on  a  Boer's  farm  where  the  plains 
were  covered  with  springbok.  Here  Campbell  had  instructed  me  to 
await  his  arrival,  and  next  morning  he  was  seen  approaching  the 
waggons,  mounted  on  the  "  Immense  Brute,''  and  leading  two  others. 

Having  breakfasted,  we  started  on  horseback  to  "  jag  "  springbok  and 
wildebeest,  ordering  the  waggons  to  proceed  to  a  vley  about  four  miles 
to  the  west.  We  galloped  about  the  plains,  loading  and  firing  for  about 
six  hours.  The  game  was  very  wild.  I  wounded  three  springboks  and 
one  wildebeest,  but  lost  them  all.  Campbell  shot  two  springboks.  The 
first  was  entirely  eaten  by  the  vultures  (notwithstanding  the  bushes 
with  which  we  had  covered  him),  and  skinned  as  neatly  as  if  done  by 
the  hand  of  man.  The  second  had  its  leg  broken  by  the  ball,  and  was 
making  off,  when  a  jackal  suddenly  appeared  on  the  bare  plain,  and, 
giving  him  chase,  after  a  good  course  ran  into  him. 

This  is  a  very  remarkable  occurrence  and  not  unfrequent.  Often  when  a 
springbok  is  thus  wounded,  one  or  more  jackals  suddenly  appear  and  assist 
the  hunter  in  capturing  his  quarry.  In  the  more  distant  hunting  lands  of 
the  interior  it  sometimes  happens  that  the  lion  assists  the  sportsman  in  a 
similar  manner  with  the  larger  animals  ;  and  though  this  may  appear 
like  a  traveller's  story,  it  is  nevertheless  true,  and  instances  of  the  kind 
happened  both  to  myself  and  to  Mr.  Oswell  of  the  H.E.I.C.S.,  a  dashing- 
sportsman,  and  one  of  the  best  hunters  I  ever  met,  who  performed  two 
hunting  expeditions  into  the  interior.  Mr.  Oswell  and  a  companion 
were  one  day  galloping  along  the  shady  banks  of  the  Limpopo,  in  full 
pursuit  of  a  wounded  buffalo,  when  they  were  suddenly  joined  by  three 
lions,  who  seemed  determined  to  dispute  the  chase  with  them.  The 
buffalo  held  stoutly  on,  followed  by  the  three  lions,  Oswell  and  his  com- 
panion bringing  up  the  rear.  Very  soon  the  lions  sprang  upon  the 
mighty  bull  and  dragged  him  to  the  ground,  when  the  most  terrific 
scuffle  ensued.  Mr.  Oswell  and  friend  then  approached  and  opened 
their  fire  upon  the  royal  family,  and,  as  each  ball  struck  the  lions,  they 
seemed  to  consider  it  was  a  poke  from  the  horns  of  the  buffalo,  and  re- 
doubled their  attentions  to  him.    At  length  the  sportsman  succeeded  in 


54  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

bowling  over  two  of  the  lions,  upon  which  the  third,  finding  the  ground 
too  hot  for  him,  made  off. 

Next  morning,  having  bathed  and  breakfasted,  Campbell  and  I  parted : 
he  for  Colesberg  and  I  for  the  Karroo.  I  trekked  on  all  day,  and, 
having  performed  a  march  of  twenty-five  miles,  halted  at  sundown  on 
the  farm  of  old  Wessel,  whom  I  found  very  drunk.  My  road  lay 
through  vast  plains,  intersected  with  ridges  of  stony  hills.  On  these 
plains  I  found  the  game  in  herds  exceeding  anything  I  had  yet  seen — 
springbok  in  troops  of  at  least  ten  thousand  ;  also  large  bodies  of 
quaggas,  wildebeest,  blesbok,  and  several  ostriches.  I  had  hoped  to 
have  purchased  some  horses  from  Wessel,  but  he  was  too  drunk  to 
transact  any  business,  informing  me  that  he  was  a  Boer,  and  could  not 
endure  the  sight  of  Englishmen,  at  the  same  time  shoving  me  out  of  the 
house,  much  to  the  horror  of  his  wife  and  daughters,  who  seemed  rather 
nice  people. 

Two  more  days  of  hard  marching,  under  a  burning  sun,  brought  me 
to  the  farm  of  Mynheer  Stinkum,  which  I  reached  late  on  the  evening 
of  the  7th.  He  informed  me  that  about  fifteen  miles  to  the  west  of  his 
farm  I  should  fall  in  with  a  Boer  of  the  wandering  tribe  who  would 
direct  me  to  a  remote  vley  in  the  Karroo,  a  good  many  miles  beyond 
his  encampment,  to  which  he  advised  me  at  once  to  proceed  and  hunt  in 
its  vicinity.  He  represented  that  district  as  not  having  been  recently 
disturbed  by  hunters,  and  doubted  not  but  I  should  find  gemsbok  and 
other  varieties  of  game  abundant. 

It  being  now  summer,  flies  prevailed  in  fearful  swarms  in  the  abodes 
of  the  Boers,  attracted  thither  by  the  smell  of  meat  and  milk.  On  en- 
tering Stinkum's  house,  I  found  the  walls  of  his  large  sitting-room  actu- 
ally black  with  these  disgusting  insects.  They  are  a  cruel  plague  to  the 
settlers  in  Southern  Africa,  and  it  often  requires  considerable  ingenuity 
to  eat  one's  dinner  or  drink  a  cup  of  coffee  without  consuming  a  num- 
ber of  them.  When  food  is  served  up,  two  or  three  Hottentots  or 
Bush-girls  are  always  in  attendance  with  fans  made  of  ostrich-feathers, 
which  they  keep  continually  waving  over  the  food  till  the  repast  is 
finished. 

This  morning  I  purchased  a  handsome  chestnut  pony  from  a  Boer 
named  Duprey,  a  field-cornet,  from  whom  I  obtained  an  egg  of  the  bus- 
tard of  the  largest  species  for  my  collection,  oology  being  a  subject  in 
which  for  many  years  of  my  life  I  had  taken  great  interest,  having  in 
my  possession  one  of  the  finest  collections  in  Great  Britain,  amassed 
with  much  toil  and  danger.  I  have  descended  most  of  the  loftiest  pre- 
cipices in  the  central  Highlands  of  Scotland,  and  along  the  sea-shore, 
with  a  rope  round  my  waist,  in  quest  of  the  eggs  of  the  various  eagles 
and  falcons  which  have  their  eyries  in  those  almost  inaccessible  situa- 
tions. Amongst  Stinkum's  stud  was  a  handsome  brown  gelding,  to 
which  I  took  a  great  fancy  ;  and  after  consulting  for  some  time  with 
his  wife,  he  made  up  his  mind  to  part  with  him.  The  lowest  price  was 
to  be  £18.  After  a  good  deal  of  bargaining,  however,  I  persuaded  him 
to  part  with  him  for  £12  in  cash,  15  lbs.  of  coffee,  and  20  lbs.  of  gun- 
powder.     I  christened  this  horse   "Sunday,"  in  honour  of  the  day  on 


A  WANDERING  BOER.  55 

which  I  obtained  him.  This  bargain  being  concluded,  I  inspanned,  and 
trekked  to  the  wandering  Boer,  whom  I  reached  about  an  hour  after 
sundown. 

This  man's  name  was  Gous ;  he  lived  in  a  small  canvas  tent  pitched 
between  his  two  waggons,  round  which  his  vast  flocks  of  sheep  assem- 
bled every  evening,  his  cattle  and  horses  running  day  and  night  in  a 
neighbouring  range  of  grassy  hills  :  his  wife  was  one  of  the  best-looking 
women  I  met  among  the  Boers;  she  informed  me  that  she  was  of  French 
extraction.  On  the  following  morning  I  breakfasted  with  Gous  in  his 
tent :  he  had  lots  of  flesh,  milk,  and  wild  honey,  which  last  article  was 
reported  abundant  that  season.  He  offered  to  sell  to  me  a  brown  horse 
of  good  appearance  ;  his  price  was  too  high,  but  at  a  subsequent  period 
we  came  to  terms,  and  I  bought  him.  After  breakfast  I  inspanned,  and 
having  proceeded  a  few  miles  across  a  glowing  plain,  on  which  I  counted 
fourteen  tall  ostriches  stalking  amid  large  herds  of  other  game,  I  reached 
a  periodical  stream,  where  I  outspanned,  the  sun  being  intensely  power- 
ful. Here  I  found  another  Boer,  named  Sweirs,  encamped  with  his 
flocks  and  herds,  having  been  obliged  to  leave  his  farms,  situated  far  in 
the  depths  of  the  Karroo,  from  want  of  water.  Sweirs  was  an  elderly 
man,  but  had  been  a  keen  sportsman,  and  entertained  me  with  many 
interesting  anecdotes  relative  to  the  habits  of  the  game  and  of  his  hunt- 
ing adventures  in  his  early  days.  He  informed  me  that  he  remembered 
lions  extremely  abundant  in  those  districts,  and  that  a  few  were  still  to 
be  met  with.  He  related  to  me  instances  where  he  had  seen  the  gems- 
bok  beat  off  the  lion,  and  he  had  also  come  upon  the  carcases  of  both 
rotting  on  the  plain,  the  body  of  the  lion  being  transfixed  by  the  long 
sharp  horns  of  the  powerful  gemsbok  so  that  he  could  not  extract  them, 
and  thus  both  had  perished  together :  he  also  mentioned  that,  not- 
withstanding the  agility  of  the  springbok,  he  had  often  known  the  lion 
dash  to  the  ground  two,  three,  and  four  in  quick  succession  in  a  troop. 

Four  of  my  oxen  being  footsore  and  unable  to  proceed,  I  left  them  in 
charge  of  old  Sweirs,  and  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  I  inspanned,  and, 
having  proceeded  about  five  miles  through  an  extremely  wild  and  deso- 
late-looking country,  on  clearing  a  neck  in  a  range  of  low  rocky  hills  I 
came  full  in  view  of  the  vley  or  pool  of  water  beside  which  I  had  been 
directed  to  encamp.  The  breadth  of  this  vley  was  about  three  hundred 
yards.  One  side  of  it  was  grassy  and  patronized  by  several  flock&  of 
Egyptian  wild  geese,  a  species  of  barnacle,  wild  ducks,  egrets,  and 
cranes.  The  other  side  was  bare,  and  here  the  game  drank,  and  the 
margin  of  the  water  was  trampled  by  the  feet  of  wild  animals  like  an 
English  horsepond.  There  being  no  trees  beside  which  to  form  our 
camp,  we  drew  up  our  waggons  among  some  low  bushes,  about  four 
hundred  yards  from  the  vley.  When  the  sun  went  down  I  selected  the 
three  horses  which  were  to  carry  myself  and  two  after-riders  in  the 
chase  of  the  unicorn  on  the  following  morning,  and  directed  my  boys  to 
give  them-a  liberal  supply  of  forage  to  eat  during  the  night. 

The  oryx,  or  gemsbok,  to  which  I  was  now  about  to  direct  my  atten- 
tion more  particularly,  is  about  the  most  beautiful  and  remarkable  of  all 
the  antelope  tribe.      It  is  the  animal  which  is  supposed  to  have  given 


56  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

rise  to  the  fable  of  the  unicorn,  from  its  long  straight  horns,  when  seen, 
en  profile,  so  exactly  covering  one  another  as  to  give  it  the  appearance 
of  having  but  one.  It  possesses  the  erect  mane,  long  sweeping  black 
tail,  and  general  appearance  of  the  horse,  with  the  head  and  hoofs  of  an 
antelope.  It  is  robust  in  its  form,  squarely  and  compactly  built,  and 
very  noble  in  its  bearing.  Its  height  is  about  that  of  an  ass,  and  in 
colour  it  slightly  resembles  that  animal.  The  beautiful  black  bands 
which  eccentrically  adorn  its  head,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  wearing 
a  stall-collar,  together  with  the  manner  in  which  the  rump  and  thighs 
are  painted,  impart  to  it  a  character  peculiar  to  itself.  The  adult  male 
measures  3  feet  10  inches  in  height  at  the  shoulder. 

The  gemsbok  was  destined  by  nature  to  adorn  the  parched  karroos 
and  arid  deserts  of  South  Africa,  for  which  description  of  country  it  is 
admirably  adapted.  It  thrives  and  attains  high  condition  in  barren  re- 
gions, where  it  might  be  imagined  that  a  locust  would  not  find  subsist- 
ence, and,  burning  as  is  the  climate,  it  is  perfectly  independent  of  water, 
which,  from  my  own  observation,  and  the  repeated  reports  both  of  the 
Boers  and  aborigines,  I  am  convinced  it  never  by  any  chance  tastes.  Its 
flesh  is  deservedly  esteemed,  and  ranks  next  to  the  eland.  At  certain 
seasons  of  the  year  they  carry  a  great  quantity  of  fat,  at  which  time 
they  can  more  easily  be  ridden  into.  Owing  to  the  even  nature  of  the 
ground  which  the  oryx  frequents,  its  shy  and  suspicious  disposition,  and 
the  extreme  distances  from  water  to  which  it  must  be  followed,  it  is 
never  stalked  or  driven  to  an  ambush  like  other  antelopes,  but  is  hunted 
on  horseback,  and  ridden  down  by  a  long,  severe,  tale-on-end  chase.  Of 
several  animals  in  South  Africa  which  are  hunted  in  this  manner,  and 
may  be  ridden  into  by  a  horse,  the  oryx  is  by  far  the  swiftest  and  most 
enduring.  They  are  widely  diffused  throughout  the  centre  and  western 
parts  of  Southern  Africa. 

On  the  10th  of  December,  everything  having  been  made  ready  over- 
night, I  took  coffee,  saddled  up,  and  started  an  hour  before  day-dawn, 
accompanied  by  Cobus  and  Jacob  as  after-riders  leading  a  spare  horse 
with  my  packsaddle.  We  held  a  south-westerly  course,  and  at  length 
reached  the  base  of  a  little  hillock  slightly  elevated  above  the  surround- 
ing scenery.  Here  I  dismounted,  and  having  ascended  to  the  summit 
examined  the  country  all  around  minutely  with  my  spyglass,  but  could 
not  see  anything  like  the  oryx.  I  was  in  the  act  of  putting  up  my  glass 
again,  when  to  my  intense  delight  I  perceived,  feeding  within  four  hun- 
dred yards,  in  a  hollow  between  two  hillocks,  a  glorious  herd  of  about 
five-and-twenty  of  the  long-wish ed-f or  gemsbok,  with  a  fine  old  bull 
feeding  at  a  little  distance  by  himself,  their  long  sharp  horns  glancing 
in  the  morning  sun  like  the  cheese-toasters  of  a  troop  of  dragoons. 

I  scarcely  allowed  myself  a  moment  to  feast  my  eyes  on  the  thrilling 
sight  before  me,  when  I  returned  to  my  boys  and  with  them  concerted 
a  plan  to  circumvent  them.  At  this  time  I  was  very  much  in  the  dark 
as  to  the  speed  of  the  gemsbok,  having  been  led  by  a  friend  to  believe 
that  a  person  even  of  my  weight,  if  tolerably  mounted,  could  invariably, 
after  a  long  chase,  ride  right  into  them.  This,  however,  is  not  the  case. 
My  friend  was  deceived  in  the  opinion  which  he  had  formed.     The  fact 


THE  OEYX,   OR  GEMSBOK.  57 

• 

of  the  matter  was,  that  he  had  been  hunting  a  long  way  to  windward  of 
a  party  who  were  hunting  on  the  same  plains  with  him,  and  several  of 
the  gemsboks  which  he  had  killed  had  previously  been  severely  chased 
by  the  other  party.  In  the  whole  course  of  my  adventures  with  gems- 
bok  I  only  remember  four  occasions,  when  mounted  on  the  pick  of  my 
stud  (which  I  nearly  sacrificed  in  the  attempt),  that  alone  and  unassisted 
I  succeeded  in  riding  the  oryx  to  a  stand-still.  The  plan  which  I 
adopted,  and  which  is  generally  used  by  the  Boers,  was  to  mount  my 
light  Hottentots  or  Bushmen  on  horses  of  great  endurance,  and  thus,  as 
it  were,  convert  them  into  greyhounds,  with  which  I  coursed  the  gems- 
bok  as  we  do  stags  in  Scotland  with  our  rough  deer-hounds.  A  "  tail- 
on-end "  chase  is  sometimes  saved,  in  parts  where  the  hunter,  from  a 
previous  knowledge  of  the  country,  knows  the  course  which  the  gems- 
bok  will  take  ;  when,  having  first  discovered  the  herd,  the  after-rider  is 
directed  to  remain  quiet  until  the  hunter  shall  have  proceeded  by  a  wide 
semicircular  course  some  miles  to  windward  of  the  herd,  which  being 
accomplished,  the  Hottentot  gives  the  troop  a  tremendous  burst  towards 
his  master,  who,  by  riding  hard  for  their  line,  generally  manages  to  get 
within  easy  shot  as  the  panting  herd  strains  past  him. 

We  agreed  that  Jacob  and  I  should. endeavour  to  ride  by  a  circuitous 
course  a  long  way  to  windward  of  the  herd,  and  that  Cobus  should  then 
gave  chase  and  drive  them  towards  us.  The  wind  was  westerly,  but  the 
district  to  which  this  herd  seemed  to  belong  unfortunately  lay  to  the 
northward.  Jacob  and  I  rode  steadily  on,  occasionally  looking  behind 
us,  and,  presently  taking  up  a  commanding  position,  strained  our  eyes 
in  the  direction  of  the  gemsboks  in  the  full  expectation  of  seeing  them 
flying  towards  us.  After  waiting  a  considerable  time  and  nothing  ap- 
pearing, I  felt  convinced  that  we  were  wrong,  and  in  this  conjecture  I 
judged  well.  A  slight  inequality  in  the  plain  had  concealed  from  our 
view  the  retreating  herd,  which  had  started  in  a  northerly  course. 
Cobus  had  long  since  dashed  into  the  herd,  and  was  at  that  moment 
flying  across  the  plains  after  them,  I  knew  not  in  what  direction.  After 
galloping  athwart  the  boundless  plains  in  a  state  bordering  on  distrac- 
tion, I  gave  it  up,  and  accompanied  by  Jacob  returned  to  the  waggons 
in  anything  but  a  placid  frame  of  mind. 

About  two  hours  after,  Cobus  reached  the  waggon,  having  ridden  the 
old  bull  to  a  stand-still.  The  old  fellow  had  lain  down  repeatedly  to- 
wards the  end  of  the  chase,  and  at  length  could  proceed  no  farther,  and 
Cobus,  after  waiting  some  time  and  seeing  no  signs  of  his  master,  had 
reluctantly  left  him.  In  the  height  of  the  day  the  sun  was  intensely 
powerful ;  I  felt  much  disgusted  at  my  want  of  luck  in  my  first  attempt, 
and,  burning  with  anxiety  for  another  trial,  I  resolved  to  take  the  field 
again  in  the  afternoon,  more  especially  as  we  had  not  a  pound  of  flesh  in 
camp.  Between  three  and  four  p.m.  I  again  sallied  forth  with  the  same 
after-riders  leading  a  spare  horse.  We  cantered  across  plains  to  the 
north-east,  and  soon  fell  in  with  ostriches  and  quaggas,  and  after  riding 
a  few  miles  through  rather  bushy  ground,  a  large  herd  of  hartebeest 
cantered  across  our  path,  and  these  were  presently  joined  by  two  or 
three  herds  of  quaggas  and  wildebeests,  which  kept  retreating  as  we  ad- 


58  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

vanced,  their  course  being  marked  by  clouds  of  red  dust :  at  length  I  per- 
ceived a  herd  of  ash-coloured  bucks  stealing  right  away  ahead  of  the 
other  game  ;  I  at  once  knew  them  to  be  gemsbok,  and  gave  chase  at  a 
hard  canter. 

I  gradually  gained  upon  them,  and  after  riding  hard  for  about  two 
miles  I  ordered  Cobus  to  go  ahead  and  endeavour  to  close  with  them. 
At  this  moment  we  had  reached  the  border  of  a  slight  depression  on  the 
plain,  down  which  the  herd  led,  affording  me  a  perfect  view  of  the  excit- 
ing scene.  The  gemsbok  now  increased  their  pace,  but  Cobus's  horse, 
which  was  a  good  one  with  a  very  light  weight,  gained  upon  them  at 
every  stride,  and  before  they  had  reached  the  opposite  side  of  the  plain 
he  was  in  the  middle  of  the  foaming  herd,  and  had  turned  out  a  beauti- 
ful cow  with  a  pair  of  uncommonly  fine  long  horns.  In  one  minute  he 
dexterously  turned  her  in  my  direction,  and  heading  her,  I  obtained  a 
fine  chance,  and  rolled  her  over  with  two  bullets  in  her  shoulder.  My 
thirst  was  intense,  and,  the  gemsbok  having  a  fine  breast  of  milk,  I 
milked  her  into  my  mouth,  and  obtained  a  drink  of  the  sweetest  bever- 
age I  ever  tasted. 

While  I  was  thus  engaged  Cobus  was  shifting  his  saddle  from  the 
"Immense  Brute"  to  the  grey,  which  being  accomplished  I  ordered  him 
to  renew  the  chase,  and  try  to  ride  down  the  old  bull  for  me.  We 
fastened  the  "Immense  Brute"  to  a  bush  beside  the  dead  gemsbok,  and 
then,  mounting  the  horse  which  Jacob  had  been  riding,  I  followed  on  as 
best  I  might.  On  gaining  the  first  ridge  I  perceived  the  troop  of  oryx 
about  two  miles  ahead  of  me  ascending  another  ridge  at  the  extremity 
of  the  plain,  and  Cobus  riding  hard  for  them  about  a  mile  astern,  but 
rapidly  gaining  on  them.  Oryx  and  boy  soon  disappeared  over  the  dis- 
tant ridge,  the  boy  still  far  behind. 

The  country  here  changed  from  grass  and  bushes  to  extreme 
sterility ;  the  whole  ground  was  undermined  with  the  holes  of 
colonies  of  meercat  or  mouse-hunts.  This  burrowed  ground,  which  is 
common  throughout  these  parts,  was  extremely  distressing  to  our  horses, 
the  soil  giving  way  at  every  step,  and  my  steed  soon  began  to  flag.  On 
gaining  the  distant  ridge  a  wide  plain  lay  before  me.  I  looked  in  every 
direction,  straining  my  eyes  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  Cobus  and  the  oryx, 
but  they  were  nowhere  to  be  seen  :  at  length,  after  riding  about  two 
miles  farther  in  the  direction  which  he  seemed  to  hold  when  I  had  last 
seen  him,  I  detected  his  white  shirt  on  a  ridge  a  long  way  to  my  right, 
and  on  coming  up  to  him  I  found  that  he  had  ridden  the  old  bull  to  a 
stand-still :  the  old  fellow  was  actually  lying  panting  beside  a  green 
bush.  I  thought  him  one  of  the  most  lovely  animals  I  had  ever  beheld, 
and  I  could  have  gazed  for  hours  at  him,  but  I  was  now  many  miles 
from  my  waggons  without  a  chance  of  water  and  dying  of  thirst,  so  I 
speedily  finished  the  poor  oryx,  and  having  carefully  cut  off  the  head  I 
commenced  skinning  him. 

It  was  now  late — too  late  to  take  home  the  cow  oryx  that  night ;  the 
bull  was  much  too  far  from  my  camp  to  think  of  saving  any  part  of  the 
flesh.  I  therefore  sent  off  Cobus  to  the  waggons  to  fetch  water  and 
bread,  desiring  him  to  meet  me  at  the  spot  where  the  cow  gemsbok  was 


HARDSHIPS   OF   THE  HUNTER.  59 


lying,  where  I  resolved  to  sleep,  to  protect  her  from  hyaenas  and  jackals; 
but  before  Jacob  and  I  had  accomplished  the  skinning,  and  secured  the 
skin  and  the  head  upon  the  horse,  night  had  set  in.  My  thirst  was  now 
fearful,  and  becoming  more  and  more  raging.  I  would  have  given  any- 
thing I  possessed  for  a  bottle  of  water.  In  the  hope  of  meeting  Cobus, 
Jacob  and  I  rode  slowly  forward,  and  endeavoured  to  find  out  the 
place ;  but  darkness  coming  on,  and  there  being  no  feature  in  the  desert 
to  guide  me,  I  lost  my  way  entirely,  and  after  wandering  for  several 
hours  in  the  dark,  and  firing  blank  shots  at  intervals,  we  lay  down  in 
the  open  plain  to  sleep  till  morning,  having  tied  our  horses  to  a  thorny 
bush  beside  where  we  lay.  I  felt  very  cold  all  night,  but  my  thirst 
continued  raging.  My  clothes  consisted  of  a  shirt  and  a  pair  of  knee- 
breeches.  My  bed  was  the  bull's  hide  laid  over  a  thorny  bush,  which 
imparted  to  my  tough  mattress  the  elasticity  of  a  feather  bed.  Having 
slept  about  two  hours,  I  awoke  and  found  that  our  horses  had 
absconded,  after  which  I  slept  little.  Day  dawned  and  I  rose,  and  on 
looking  about  neither  Jacob  nor  I  had  the  most  remote  idea  of  the 
ground  we  were  on,  nor  of  the  position  of  our  camp. 

Within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  us  was  a  small  hill,  which  we  ascended 
and  looked  about,  but  could  not  in  the  least  recognise  the  ground.  I 
however  ascertained  the  points  of  the  compass  and  the  position  of  my 
camp  by  placing  my  left  hand  towards  the  rising  sun.  I  was  then 
returning  to  the  spot  where  I  had  slept,  when  suddenly  I  perceived, 
standing  within  three  hundred  yards  of  me,  the  horse  which  I  had 
fastened  beside  the  cow  oryx  on  the  preceding  evening,  and  on  going 
up  I  found  both  all  right.  I  immediately  saddled  the  horse,  and  rode 
hard  for  camp,  ordering  Jacob  to  commence  skinning  the  cow,  and  pro- 
mising to  send  him  water  and  bread  as  soon  as  I  reached  the  waggons. 

On  my  way  thither  I  met  Cobus  on  horseback,  bearing  bread  and  a 
bottle  of  water,  wandering  he  knew  not  whither,  having  entirely  lost  his 
reckoning.  My  thirst  had  by  this  time  departed,  so  I  did  not  touch  the 
water,  but  allowed  him  to  take  it  on  to  Jacob.  He  informed  me  that 
John  Stofolus  was  coming  on  with  the  baggage- waggon  to  take  up  the 
venison  ;  and  before  riding  far  I  fell  in  with  him,  having,  with  a  Hot- 
tentot's usual  good  sense,  come  away  without  water  in  the  casks. 
Having  shown  him  how  to  steer,  I  rode  on  to  the  camp,  which  I  was 
right  glad  to  reach,  and  felt  much  refreshed  with  a  good  bowl  of  tea. 
I  was  actively  employed  during  the  rest  of  the  day  in  preserving  the 
two  oryx-heads  for  my  collection.  In  the  evening  a  horseman  on  a 
jaded  steed  was  seen  approaching  the  waggons,  accompanied  by  an  after- 
rider  leading  a  spare  horse.  This  was  my  friend  Paterson,  who  had 
succeeded  in  obtaining  a  fortnight's  leave  of  absence,  and  with  whom 
that  evening,  over  a  gemsbok  stew,  I  "fought  my  battles  o'er  again." 
Our  respective  studs  being  considerably  done  up,  and  in  need  of  rest, 
the  following  day  was  devoted  to  "dulce  otium,"  washing  our  rifles,  and 
writing  up  the  log. 

On  the  14th  we  went  out  on  foot  after  a  troop  of  ostriches,  one  of 
which  we  wounded,  and  came  home  much  exhausted.  The  very  ground 
was  as  hot  as  the  side  of  a  stove.      The  following  day  we  were  visited 


60   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

by  a  party  of  Boers  from  the  neighbouring  encampments,  who  had  come 
to  see  how  we  were  getting  on.  Finding  our  brandy  good,  they  made 
themselves  very  agreeable,  and  sat  for  many  hours  conversing  with  us. 
The  leading  subject  of  conversation  was  gemsbok  and  lion  shooting, 
and  the  slaying  and  capturing  of  whole  tribes  of  marauding  Bushmen 
in  bygone  days.  They  informed  us  that  when  they  first  occupied  these 
districts  the  game  was  far  more  abundant,  and  eland  and  koodoos  were 
plentiful.  Their  herds  of  cattle  were  constantly  attacked  and  plundered 
by  the  vindictive  wild  Bushmen.  Unlike  the  Caffre  tribes,  who  lift 
cattle  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  them  and  breeding  from  them,  the 
sole  object  of  the  Bushmen  is  to  drive  them  to  their  secluded  habitations 
in  the  desert,  where  they  massacre  them  indiscriminately,  and  continue 
feasting  and  gorging  themselves  until  the  flesh  becomes  putrid.  When 
a  Kaffir  has  lifted  cattle,  and  finds  himself  so  hotly  pursued  by  the 
owners  that  he  cannot  escape  with  his  booty,  he  betakes  himself  to 
flight,  and  leaves  the  cattle  unscathed ;  but  the  spiteful  Bushmen  have 
a  most  provoking  and  cruel  system  of  horribly  mutilating  the  poor 
cattle,  when  they  find  that  they  are  likely  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  their 
rightful  owners,  by  discharging  their  poisoned  arrows  at  them,  ham- 
stringing them,  and  cutting  lumps  of  flesh  off  their  living  carcases. 
This  naturally  so  incenses  the  owners,  that  they  never  show  the  Bush- 
men any  quarter,  but  shoot  them  down  right  and  left,  sparing  only  the 
children,  whom  they  tame  and  convert  into  servants.  The  people  who 
suffer  from  these  depredations  are  Boers,  Griquas,  and  Bechuanas,  all  of 
whom  are  possessed  of  large  herds  of  cattle,  and  the  massacres  of  the 
Bushmen,  arising  from  these  raids  are  endless. 

The  Boers  informed  us  that  in  a  country  to  the  south-west  of  our 
actual  possession,  a  tribe  of  these  natives  for  many  years  were  in  the 
habit  of  practising  raids  with  impunity  upon  the  herds  of  the  farmers 
in  the  Raw-feldt,  assisted  by  a  vast  and  impracticable  desert  which 
intervened  between  their  country  and  the  more  fertile  pastoral  districts. 
They  seemed  to  prefer  extremely  dry  seasons  for  these  incursions,  their 
object  in  this  being  that  their  pursuers,  who  of  course  followed  on  horse- 
back while  they  were  always  on  foot,  should  not  obtain  water  for  the 
horses.  Their  own  wants  in  this  respect  they  provided  for  in  the 
following  curious  manner.  They  had  regular  stages  at  long  intervals  in 
a  direct  line  across  the  desert,  where,  assisted  by  their  wives,  they  con- 
cealed water  in  ostrich-eggs,  which  they  brought  from  amazing  distances, 
and  these  spots,  being  marked  by  some  slight  inequality  in  the  ground, 
they  could  discover  either  by  day  or  night  from  their  perfect  knowledge 
of  the  country.  They  were  thus  enabled  fearlessly  to  drive  off  a  herd 
of  cattle,  whose  sufferings  from  thirst  gave  them  little  concern,  and  to 
travel  day  and  night,  while  their  mounted  pursuers,  requiring  light  to 
hold  the  spoor,  could  necessarily  only  follow  by  day,  and  were  soon 
obliged  to  give  up  the  pursuit  on  account  of  their  horses  being  withuot 
water. 


CHASE  OF  AN   ORYX.  61 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Hard  Chase  of  an  Oryx — A  Brindled  Gnoo  reduces  himself  to  a  "dead  lock,"  and  is 
taken — Paterson  slays  a  Gemsbok  and  a  Bull  Wildebeest — He  leaves  for  Coles- 
berg — Ostrich-eggs — Novel  method  of  carrying  them — Anecdotes  of  the  Ostrich 
— Affray  with  a  Porcupine — He  proves  a  rough  Eider  for  my  Horse — Narrow 
Escape  from  the  Thrust  of  a  dying  Oryx — The  grateful  Water-root — Troops  of 
Springboks  cover  the  face  of  the  land — Their  Migrations — The  finest  shot  at 
my  leisure — Beer  Vley. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  morning  of  the  1 6th  Paterson  and  I  again  took 
the  field,  accompanied  by  our  three  after-riders,  and,  having  ridden 
several  miles  in  a  northerly  direction,  we  started  an  oryx,  to  which 
Paterson  and  his  after-rider  gave  immediate  chase.  I  then  rode  in  an 
easterly  direction,  and  shortly  fell  in  with  a  fine  old  cow  oryx,  which  we 
instantly  charged.  She  stole  away  at  a  killing  pace,  her  black  tail 
streaming  in  the  wind,  and  her  long,  sharp  horns  laid  well  back  over  her 
shoulders.  Aware  of  her  danger,  and  anxious  to  gain  the  desert,  she 
put  forth  her  utmost  speed  and  strained  across  the  bushy  plain.  She 
led  us  a  tearing  chase  of  upwards  of  five  miles  in  a  northerly  course, 
Cobus  sticking  well  into  her,  and  I  falling  far  behind.  After  a  sharp 
burst  of  about  three  miles,  Cobus  and  the  grey  disappeared  over  a  ridge 
about  half  a  mile  ahead  of  me.  I  here  mounted  a  fresh  horse,  which  had 
been  led  by  Jacob,  and  followed.  On  gaining  the  ridge,  I  perceived  the 
grey  disappearing  over  another  ridge,  a  fearfully  long  way  ahead.  When 
I  reached  this  point  I  commanded  an  extremely  extensive  prospect,  but 
no  living  object  was  visible  on  the  desolate  plain. 

Whilst  deliberating  in  which  direction  to  ride,  I  suddenly  heard  a 
pistol-shot,  some  distance  to  my  left,  which  I  knew  to  be  Cobus's  signal 
that  the  oryx  was  at  bay.  Having  ridden  half  a  mile,  I  discovered 
Cobus  dismounted  in  a  hollow,  and  no  oryx  in  view.  He  had  succeeded 
in  riding  the  quarry  to  a  stand,  and,  I  not  immediately  appearing,  he 
very  injudiciously  had  at  once  lost  sight  of  the  buck  and  left  it.  Having 
upbraided  Cobus  in  no  measured  terms  for  his  stupidity,  I  sought  to  re- 
trieve the  fortunes  of  the  day  by  riding  in  the  direction  in  which  he 
had  left  the  oryx.  The  ground  here  was  uneven  and  interspersed  with 
low  hillocks.  We  extended  our  front  and  rode  on  up  wind,  and,  having 
crossed  two  or  three  ridges,  I  discovered  a  troop  of  bucks  a  long  way 
ahead.     Having  made  for  these,  they  turned  out  to  be  hartebeests. 

At  this  moment  I  perceived  three  magnificent  oryx  a  short  distance 
to  my  left.  On  observing  us,  they  cantered  along  the  ridge  towards  a 
fourth  oryx,  which  I  at  once  perceived  to  be  "  embossed  with  foam  and 
dark  with  soil,"  and  knew  to  be  the  antelope  sought  for.  Once  more 
we  charged  her.  Our  horses  had  now  considerably  recovered  their  wind, 
but  the  poor  oryx  was  much  distressed ;  and  after  a  chase  of  half  a  mile 
I  jumped  off  my  horse  and  sent  a  bullet  through  her  ribs,  which  brought 
her  to  a  stand,  when  I  finished  her  with  the  other  barrel.  She  proved 
a  fine  old  cow  with  very  handsome  horns  ;  the  spot  on  which  she  fell 
being  so  sterile  that  we  could  not  even  obtain  the  smallest  bushes  with 
which  to   conceal  her  from  the  vultures,  we  covered  her  with  my  after- 


62    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

rider's  saddlecloth,  which  consisted  of  a  large  blanket :  the  head,  on 
which  I  placed  great  value,  we  cut  off  and  bore  along  with  us. 

On  my  way  home  I  came  across  Paterson's  after-rider,  "  jagging  "  a 
troop  of  seven  gemsbok,  but  fearfully  to  leeward,  his  illustrious  master 
being  nowhere  in  sight.  An  hour  after  I  reached  the  camp  Paterson 
came  in,  in  a  towering  rage,  having  been  unlucky  in  both  his  chases.  I 
now  despatched  one  of  my  waggons  to  bring  home  my  oryx.  It  re- 
turned about  twelve  o'clock  that  night,  carrying  the  skin  of  my  gems- 
bok and  also  a  magnificent  old  blue  wildebeest  (the  brindled  gnoo), 
which  the  Hottentots  had  obtained  in  an  extraordinary  manner.  He 
was  found  with  one  of  his  fore  legs  caught  over  his  horn,  so  that  he 
could  not  run,  and  they  hamstrung  him  and  cut  his  throat.  He  had 
probably  managed  to  get  himself  into  this  awkward  attitude  while  fight- 
ing with  some  of  his  fellows.  The  vultures  had  consumed  all  the  flesh 
of  the  gemsbok,  and  likewise  torn  my  blanket  with  which  I  had  covered 
her. 

On  the  following  day,  all  our  steeds  being  very  much  done  up,  Pater- 
son and  I  visited  the  neighbouring  Boers  to  endeavour  to  buy  and  hire 
some  horses.  I  bought  one  clipper  of  Mynheer  Gous  for  £25,  and 
called  him  "  Grouse,"  and  Paterson  succeeded  in  hiring  one,  and  with 
these,  on  the  following  day,  we  continued  our  campaign  against  the 
gemsboks.  Paterson's  after-rider  not  being  well  up  to  his  work,  I  lent 
him  Cobus,  and  on  this  occasion  his  perseverance  was  rewarded  by  a 
noble  gemsbok  which  he  rode  down  and  slew,  and  also  a  fine  bull  blue 
wildebeest,  which  last  animal  is  rather  rare  in  these  parts.  We  had  one 
more  day  together,  after  which,  much  to  my  regret,  Paterson  was 
obliged  to  take  leave  of  me,  and  start  for  Colesberg,  his  leave  of  absence 
having  expired.  One  of  his  horses  being  footsore,  I  purchased  him,  in 
the  hope  of  his  soon  recovering,  which  after  a  few  days'  rest  he  did  :  I 
call  him  "Paterson,"  after  his  old  master.  My  stud  now  consisted  of 
eight  horses,  but  three  of  them  were  missing,  and  I  despatched  Jacob  in 
quest  of  them,  who  returned  on  the  third  day  bringing  them  with  him, 
having  followed  the  spoor  upwards  of  fifty  miles. 

In  the  evening  two  of  the  Hottentots  walked  in  to  camp,  bending 
under  a  burden  of  ostrich-eggs,  having  discovered  a  nest  containing  five- 
and-thirty.  Their  manner  of  carrying  them  amused  me.  Having 
divested  themselves  of  their  leather  "crackers,"  which  in  colonial  phrase 
means  trousers,  they  had  secured  the  ankles  with  rheimpys,  and,  having 
thus  converted  them  into  bags,  they  had  crammed  them  with  as  many 
ostrich-eggs  as  they  would  contain.  They  left  about  half  of  the  number 
behind  concealed  in  the  sand,  for  which  they  returned  on  the  following 
morning.  While  encamped  at  this  vley  we  fell  in  with  several  nests  of 
ostriches,  and  here  I  first  ascertained  a  singular  propensity  peculiar  to 
these  birds.  If  a  person  discovers  the  nest,  and  does  not  at  once  remove 
the  eggs,  on  returning  he  will  most  probably  find  them  all  smashed. 
This  the  old  birds  almost  invariably  do,  even  when  the  intruder  has  not 
handled  the  eggs  or  so  much  as  ridden  within  five  yards  of  them. 

The  nest  is  merely  a  hollow  scooped  in  the  sandy  soil,  generally 
amongst  heath  or  other  low  bushes  ;  its  diameter  is  about  seven  feet ;  it 
is  believed  that  two  hens  often  lay  in  one  nest.     The  hatching  of  the 


HUNTING  THE  OSTRICH.  63 

eggs  is  not  left,  as  is  generally  believed,  to  the  heat  of  the  sun,  but,  on 
the  contrary,  the  cock  relieves  the  hen  in  the  incubation.  These  eggs 
form  a  considerable  item  in  the  Bushman's  cuisine,  and  the  shells  are  con- 
verted into  water-flasks,  cups,  and  dishes.  I  have  often  seen  Bush-girls 
and  Bakalahari  women,  who  belong  to  the  wandering  Bechuana  tribes  of 
the  Kalahari  desert,  come  down  to  the  fountains  from  their  remote . 
habitations,  sometimes  situated  at  an  amazing  distance,  each  carrying  on 
her  back  a  kaross  or  a  network  containing  from  twelve  to  fifteen  ostrich- 
egg  shells,  which  had  been  emptied  by  a  small  aperture  at  one  end:  these 
they  fill  with  water  and  cork  up  the  hole  with  grass. 

A  favourite  method  adopted  by  the  wild  Bushman  for  approaching 
the  ostrich  and  other  varieties  of  game  is  to  clothe  himself  in  the  skin 
of  one  of  these  birds,  in  which,  taking  care  of  the  wind,  he  stalks  about 
the  plain,  cunningly  imitating  the  gait  and  motions  of  the  ostrich  until 
within  range,  when,  with  a  well-directed  poisoned  arrow  from  his  tiny 
bow,  he  can  generally  seal  the  fate  of  any  of  the  ordinary  varieties  of 
game.  These  insignificant-looking  arrows  are  about  two  feet  six  inches 
in  length  ;  they  consist  of  a  slender  reed,  with  a  sharp  bone  head, 
thoroughly  poisoned  with  a  composition,  of  which  the  principal  ingredi- 
ents are  obtained  sometimes  from  a  succulent  herb,  having  thick  leaves, 
yielding  a  poisonous  milky  juice,  and  sometimes  from  the  jaws  of 
snakes.  The  bow  barely  exceeds  three  feet  in  length ;  its  string  is 
of  twisted  sinews.  When  a  Bushman  finds  an  ostrich's  nest  he  ensconces 
himself  in  it  and  there  awaits  the  return  of  the  old  birds,  by  which 
means  he  generally  secures  the  pair.  It  is  by  means  of  these  little 
arrows  that  the  majority  of  the  fine  plumes  are  obtained  which  grace 
the  heads  of  the  fair  throughout  the  civilized  world. 

It  was  now  the  height  of  summer,  and  every  day  the  heat  of  the 
sun  was  terrific,  but  there  was  generally  a  breeze  of  wind,  and  the 
nights  were  cool.  Our  vley  was  daily  decreasing,  and  I  saw  that,  unless 
we  were  visited  by  rains,  it  would  soon  be  no  more.  On  the  morning 
of  the  22nd  I  had  rather  an  absurd  adventure  with  a  porcupine,  which 
cost  me  my  packsaddle,  the  only  thing  of  the  sort  I  had  in  camp.  Long 
before  daybreak  I  saddled  up  and  rode  north  with  my  two  after-riders 
and  a  spare  horse  with  the  packsaddle.  As  day  dawned  I  came  upon  a 
handsome  old  porcupine,  taking  his  morning  airing.  At  first  sight  he 
reminded  me  of  a  badger.  Unwilling  to  discharge  my  rifle,  as  it  was 
probable  that  we  were  in  the  vicinity  of  oryx,  I  resolved  to  attempt  his 
destruction  with  the  thick  end  of  my  jambok,  the  porcupine,  like  the 
seal,  being  easily  killed  with  a  blow  on  the  nose.  I  jumped  off  my 
horse,  and  after  a  short  race,  in  which  I  frequently  turned  him,  when 
he  invariably  doubled  back  between  my  legs,  giving  me  the  full  benefit 
of  his  bristling  quills.  I  succeeded  in  killing  him  with  the  jambok,  but 
not  till  I  had  received  several  wounds  in  my  hands.  My  boys  the 
while  sat  grinning  in  their  saddles,  enjoying  the  activity  of  their 
"baas." 

Having  covered  him  with  bushes,  we  rode  on,  and  shortly  came  upon 
an  immense,  compact  herd  of  several  thousand  "  trekking"  springboks, 
which  were  exceedingly  tame,  and  in  the  middle  of  them  stood  two 
oryx.^   These  we  managed  for  the  first  time  to  drive  in  a  southerly 


64    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


direction,  being  that  in  which  the  camp  lay;  and  after  a  sharp  and 
rather  circular  burst,  I  headed  the  finer,  and  bowled  her  over.  She 
proved  to  be  a  young  cow,  about  three  years  old.  Having  disem- 
boweled her,  and  prepared  her  for  the  packsaddle  with  a  couteau-de-chasse, 
by  splitting  the  brisket,  passing  the  knife  along  the  gristly  bones  on 
one  side  of  it,  and  breaking  the  back  by  a  dexterous  touch  of  the  knife, 
where  certain  ribs  well  known  to  the  hunter  join  the  vertebrae,  whereby 
the  animal  can  more  easily  be  balanced  on  the  packsaddle,  we  succeeded 
with  great  difficulty  in  placing  her  on  "  Sunday,"  and  rode  slowly  for 
the  place  where  we  had  left  the  porcupine. 

We  placed  him  on  the  oryx,  and  secured  him  with  a  rheim,  but  we 
had  not  proceeded  far  when  some  of  the  quills  pricked  the  steed,  upon 
which  he  commenced  bucking  and  prancing  in  the  most  frantic  manner, 
which  of  course  made  matters  ten  times  worse,  causing  the  porcupine  to 
beat  the  devil's  tattoo  on  his  back.  The  gemsbok's  head,  also,  which, 
being  a  poor  one,  I  had  not  cut  off,  unfortunately  got  adrift,  and  kept 
dangling  about  his  haunches,  the  sharp  horns  striking  his  belly  at  every 
spring.  He  broke  loose  from  Jacob,  who  led  him,  and  set  off  across  the 
country  at  a  terrific  pace,  eventually  smashing  the  packsaddle,  but  still 
failing  to  disengage  himself  from  the  gemsbok,  whose  hind  and  fore  feet, 
being  fastened  together,  slipped  round  under  his  belly,  impeding  his 
motions,  and  in  this  condition  he  was  eventually  secured,  being  consider- 
ably lacerated  about  the  haunches  by  the  horns  of  the  oryx. 

Next  day  Cobus  and  I  fell  in  with  the  finest  bull  oryx  I  had  yet  met, 
which,  after  a  severe  chase,  we  rode  into  and  slew.  For  some  evenings 
previous  a  large  bright  comet  had  appeared  in  the  south-west,  having  a 
tearing,  fiery  tale,  which  strange  meteor,  to  the  best  of  my  recollection, 
shone  brightly  in  the  clear  firmanent  for  five  or  six  weeks.  We  lived 
well,  but  lonelily.  My  camp  abounded  with  every  delicacy — tongues, 
brains,  marrow-bones,  kidneys,  rich  soup,  with  the  most  delicious  veni- 
son in  the  world,  etc.,  etc.,  and  a  constant  supply  of  ostrich-eggs.  The 
25th  was  cool  and  cloudy,  being  the  first  day  that  the  sky  had  been 
overcast  since  I  had  left  the  Thebus  Flats. 

In  the  afternoon  I  resolved  to  ride  far  into  the  oryx  country,  sleep 
under  a  bush,  and  hunt  them  on  the  following  morning.  I  accordingly 
left  my  waggons  about  three  P.M.,  with  my  two  after-riders  and  a  spare 
horse,  and  rode  about  fifteen  miles  in  a  northerly  course,  when  we 
secured  our  horses  to  a  bush,  to  leeward  of  which  we  slept.  On  my 
way  thither  I  dismounted  on  an  arid  plain  to  breathe  our  steeds  and  dig 
up  some  bulbs  of  the  water-root  for  immediate  consumption,  my  thirst 
being  very  severe.  While  cantering  along  we  passed  several  troops  of 
hartebeests  and  ostriches,  and  late  in  the  day  I  observed  a  small  troop 
of  oryx.  With  regard  to  water-root  just  referred  to,  it  has  doubtless 
saved  many  from  dying  of  thirst,  is  met  with  throughout  the  most 
parched  plains  of  the  Karroo.  It  is  a  large  oval  bulb,  varying  from 
six  to  ten  inches  in  diameter,  and  is  of  an  extremely  juicy  consistence, 
with  rather  an  insipid  flavour.  It  is  protected  by  a  thin  brown  skin, 
which  is  easily  removed  with  the  back  of  a  knife.  It  has  small  insigni- 
ficant narrow  leaves,  with  little  black  dotes  on  them,  which  are  not 
easily  detected  by  an  inexperienced  eye,     The  ground  round  it  is  gener- 


A    HERD    OF    ORYX.  65 

ally  so  baked  with  the  sun,  that  it  has  to  be  dug  out  with  a  knife.  The 
top  of  the  bulb  is  discovered  about  eight  or  nine  inches  from  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  and  the  earth  all  round  it  must  then  be  carefully 
removed.  A  knowledge  of  this  plant  is  invaluable  to  him  whose  avoca- 
tions lead  him  into  these  desolate  regions.  Throughout  the  whole 
extent  of  the  great  Kalahari  desert,  and  the  vast  tracts  of  country 
adjoining  thereto,  an  immense  variety  of  bulbs  and  roots  of  this  juicy 
description  succeed  one  another  monthly,  there  being  hardly  a  season 
in  the  year  at  which  the  poor  Bakalahari,  provided  with  a  sharp-pointed 
stick  hardened  in  the  fire,  cannot  obtain  a  meal,  being  intimately 
acquainted  with  each  and  all  the  herbs  and  roots  which  a  bountiful 
hand  has  provided  for  his  sustenance.  There  are  also  several  succulent 
plants,  having  thick  juicy  leaves,  which  in  like  manner  answer  the  pur- 
pose of  food  and  drink. 

Above  all,  a  species  of  bitter  water-melon  is  thickly  scattered  over  the 
entire  surface  of  the  known  parts  of  the  great  Kalahari  desert.  These 
often  supply  the  place  of  food  and  water  to  the  wild  inhabitants  of 
those  remote  regions,  and  it  is  stated  by  the  Bakalahari  that  these 
melons  improve  in  flavour  as  they  penetrate  farther  to  the  west.  Most 
of  these  roots  are  much  eaten  by  the  gemsboks,  which  are  led  by 
instinct  to  root  them  out.  The  elephants  also,  apprised  by  their  acute 
sense  of  smell  of  their  position,  feed  upon  them,  and  whole  tracks  may 
be  seen  ploughed  up  by  the  tusks  of  these  sagacious  animals  in  quest  of 
them. 

On  the  26th  I  raised  my  head  from  my  saddle  about  one  o'clock  A.M., 
imagining  the  day  was  dawning,  and,  having  roused  my  after-riders, 
we  proceeded  to  saddle  our  horses ;  but  I  soon  perceived  that  the  bright 
moon,  across  which  a  bank  of  clouds  was  at  that  moment  passing,  had 
deceived  me,  and  accordingly  we  off-saddled,  and  in  a  few  minutes  I 
was  once  more  asleep.  Towards  morning  a  smart  shower  of  rain  sud- 
denly falling  on  my  face  broke  in  abruptly  on  my  slumbers,  when  we 
once  more  arose,  and,  when  day  dawned,  we  saddled  up,  and  held  a 
northerly  course.  We  found  the  fresh  tracks  of  hyaenas  not  more  than 
fifteen  yards  from  our  horses.  Within  a  hundred  yards  of  our  bush  we 
at  once  discovered  the  spoor  of  an  old  bull-gemsbok  which  had  fed  past 
us  during  the  night ;  and  we  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  when 
we  discovered  a,  herd  of  seven  noble  oryx  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
us,  pasturing  in  a  low  hollow ;  upon  which  I  directed  Cobus  to  ride 
round  and  "  jag  "  them  up  to  me,  whilst  I  took  up  a  position  in  front. 

The  oryx  presently  charged  past  me ;  but  Cobus  had  started  after  an 
old  bull  which  I  did  not  see,  and  which  he  rode  to  a  stand.  To  these 
seven  oryx  I  accordingly  gave  chase,  and  before  the  first  mile  I  was 
riding  within  a  hundred  yards  of  them.  Here  we  were  joined  by 
another  fine  herd  of  twenty-two  oryx,  nearly  all  full-grown,  and  carry- 
ing superb  horns.  On  we  swept  at  a  thrilling  pace,  and,  after  riding 
upwards  of  another  mile,  I  pulled  up  to  have  a  shot ;  but  "  Grouse," 
which  I  rode,  being  very  restless,  the  herd  got  a  long  way  ahead  before 
I  could  fire.  I  however  wounded  one  fine  old  cow,  which  I  ascertained 
some  hours  afterwards.  Having  fired,  I  resumed  the  chase,  and,  observ- 
ing that  the  finest  bull  of  the  first  herd  seemed  distressed,  I  endeavoured 


66    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


to  cut  him  off  from  the  herd,  which  I  succeeded  in  doing,  and,  in  the 
excitement  of  the  moment,  I  determined  to  follow  him  as  long  as  my 
horse  could  go.  Away  and  away  we  wildly  flew — the  oryx  leading  me 
a  cruel  long  chase  due  north,  tail-on-end,  from  my  waggons,  over  a  very 
heavy  country  entirely  undermined  by  the  endless  burrows  of  the 
mouse-hunts.  My  poor  steed  became  at  length  completely  knocked  up, 
while  the  oryx  seemed  to  gain  fresh  speed,  and  increase  the  distance 
between  us.     I  felt  that  my  horse  could  not  do  it. 

One  chance  alone  remained  :  there  was  still  a  shot  in  my  left  barrel. 
I  pulled  up,  and,  vaulting  from  my  panting  steed,  with  trembling  hand 
and  beating  heart  I  cocked  my  rifle  and  let  fly  at  the  round  stern  of  the 
retreating  antelope.  The  ball  passed  within  a  few  inches  of  his  ear  and 
raised  the  dust  about  fifty  yards  in  advance  of  him  ;  and  I  had  the 
mortification  of  having  to  content  myself  with  watching  his  lessening 
form  as  he  retreated  across  the  boundless  waste.  Faint  and  weary,  and 
intensely  mortified  at  the  issue  of  my  long-continued  chase,  my  lips 
cracking,  and  my  tongue  and  throat  parched  with  raging  thirst,  I  threw 
my  bridle  on  my  arm  and  led  my  weary  steed  homewards,  and  I 
inwardly  wished  that,  instead  of  my  being  a  man  of  fourteen  stone 
weight,  nature  had  formed  me  of  the  most  Liliputian  dimensions.  I 
was  now  a  fearful  long  way  from  my  camp ;  hills  that  in  the  morning 
were  blue  before  me  were  now  equally  blue  far  far  behind  me ; 
"  Grouse  "  could  scarcely  walk  along  with  me,  nor  did  he  ever  recover 
that  morning's  work. 

Upon  my  return  I  observed  Jacob  making  for  me,  leading  a  fresh 
horse,  of  which  I  stood  not  a  little  in  need ;  he  stated  that  he  had  seen 
an  oryx  standing  at  a  distance  on  the  plain,  which  bore  the  appearance 
of  being  wounded.  We  then  made  for  this  oryx,  and  on  my  overhaul- 
ing her  with  my  spyglass  I  saw  plainly  that  she  was  badly  hit.  On  my 
cantering  up  to  her  she  ran  but  a  short  distance,  when  she  gave  in,  and, 
facing  about,  stood  at  bay.  I  foolishly  approached  her  without  firing, 
and  very  nearly  paid  dearly  for  my  folly,  for,  lowering  her  sharp  horns, 
she  made  a  desperate  rush  towards  me,  and  would  inevitably  have  run 
me  through  had  not  her  strength  at  this  moment  failed  her,  when  she 
staggered  forward  and  fell  to  the  ground. 

On  the  following  day  the  waters  of  my  vley  sank  into  the  earth  and 
disappeared;  the  water  for  some  days  past  had  become  very  "brack," 
making  myself  and  my  people  very  unwell. 

On  the  28th  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  beholding,  for  the  first  time, 
what  I  had  often  heard  the  Boers  allude  to — viz.  a  "trek-bokken,"  or 
grand  migration  of  springboks.  This  was,  I  think,  the  most  extraordi- 
nary and  striking  scene,  as  connected  with  beasts  of  the  chase,  that  I 
have  ever  beheld. 

For  about  two  hours  before  the  day  dawned  I  had  been  lying  awake 
in  my  waggon,  listening  to  the  grunting  of  the  bucks  within  two  hun- 
dred yards  of  me,  imagining  that  some  large  herd  of  springboks  was 
feeding  beside  my  camp  ;  but  on  my  rising  when  it  was  clear,  and  look- 
ing about  me,  I  beheld  the  ground  to  the  northward  of  my  camp  actu- 
ally covered  with  a  dense  living  mass  of  springboks,  marching  slowly 
and  steadily  along,  extending  from  an  opening  in  a  long  range  of  hills 


LEGIONS  OF  SPRINGBOK.  67 

on  the  west,  through  which  they  continued  pouring,  like  the  flood  of 
some  great  river,  to  a  ridge  about  a  mile  to  the  north-east,  over  which 
they  disappeared.  The  breadth  of  the  ground  they  covered  might  have 
been  somewhere  about  half  a  mile,  I  stood  upon  the  fore  chest  of  my 
waggon  for  nearly  two  hours,  lost  in  wonder  at  the  novel  and  wonder- 
ful scene  which  was  passing  before  me,  and  had  some  difficulty  in  con- 
vincing myself  that  it  was  reality  which  I  beheld,  and  not  the  wild  and 
exaggerated  picture  of  a  hunter's  dream. 

During  this  time  their  vast  legions  continued  streaming  through  the 
neck  in  the  hills  in  one  unbroken  compact  phalanx.  At  length  I  saddled 
up,  and  rode  into  the  middle  of  them  with  my  rifle  and  after-riders,  and 
fired  into  the  ranks  until  fourteen  had  fallen,  when  I  cried  "Enough." 
We  then  retraced  our  steps  to  secure  from  the  ever-voracious  vultures 
the  venison  which  lay  strewed  along  my  gory  track.  Having  collected 
the  springboks  at  different  bushes,  and  concealed  them  with  brushwood, 
we  returned  to  camp,  where  I  partook  of  coffee  while  my  men  were  in- 
spanning. 

A  person  anxious  to  kill  many  springboks  might  have  bagged  thirty 
or  forty  that  morning.  I  never,  in  all  my  subsequent  career,  fell  in  with 
so  dense  a  herd  of  these  antelopes,  nor  found  them  allow  me  to  ride  so 
near  them.  Having  inspanned,  we  proceeded  with  the  waggons  to  take 
up  the  fallen  game,  which  being  accomplished,  we  held  for  the  small 
periodical  stream  beside  which  the  wandering  Boers  were  encamped, 
that  point  being  in  my  line  of  march  for  Beer  Vley.  Vast  and  surpris- 
ing as  was  the  herd  of  springboks  which  I  had  that  morning  witnessed, 
it  was  infinitely  surpassed  by  what  I  beheld  on  the  march  from  my  vley 
to  old  Sweirs's  camp ;  for,  on  our  clearing  the  low  range  of  hills  through 
which  the  springboks  had  been  pouring,  I  beheld  the  boundless  plains, 
and  even  the  hill  sides  which  stretched  away  on  every  side  of  me, 
thickly  covered,  not  with  "  herds,"  but  with  "  one  vast  herd "  of 
springboks ;  far  as  the  eye  could  strain  the  landscape  was  alive  with 
them,  until  they  softened  down  into  a  dim  red  mass  of  living  creatures. 

To  endeavour  to  form  any  idea  of  the  amount  of  antelopes  which  I 
that  day  beheld  were  vain;  but  I  have,  nevertheless,  no  hesitation  in 
stating  that  some  hundreds  of  thousands  of  springboks  were  that  morn- 
ing within  the  compass  of  my  vision.  On  reaching  the  encampment  of 
the  Boers  I  outspanned,  and  set  about  cutting  up  and  salting  my  veni- 
son ;  the  Boers  had  likewise  been  out  with  their  "roers,"  and  shot  as 
many  as  they  could  carry  home.  Old  Sweirs  acknowledged  that  it  was 
a  very  fair  "trek-bokken,"  but  observed  that  it  was  not  many  when 
compared  with  what  he  had  seen. 

"  You  this  morning,"  he  remarked,  "  behold  only  one  flat  covered 
with  springboks,  but  I  give  you  my  word  that  I  have  ridden  a  long 
day's  journey  over  a  succession  of  flats  covered  with  them,  as  far  as  I 
could  see,  as  thick  as  sheep  standing  in  a  fold."  I  spent  the  following 
two  days  with  the  Boers.  Each  morning  and  evening  we  rode  out 
and  hunted  the  springboks,  killing  as  many  as  we  could  bring  home. 
The  vast  armies  of  the  springboks,  however,  did  not  tarry  long  in  that 
neighbourhood;  having  quickly  consumed  every  green  herb,  they  passed 
away  to  give  other  districts  a  benefit,  thus  leaving  the  Boers  no  alterna- 


68    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

tive  but  to  strike  their  tents,  and  remove  with  their  flocks  and  herds  to 
lands  where  they  might  find  pasture. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  I  left  this  periodical  stream,  whose  name 
was  "Rhinoceros  Pool,"  and  held  on  for  Beer  Vley,  which  I  reached  in 
about  eight  hours.  Our  march  was  a  very  hot  one,  across  a  desolate 
barren  country  destitute  of  water.  The  country,  though  barren,  was 
not,  however,  without  game :  I  saw  several  herds  of  springboks,  of  from 
500  to  2000  in  each ;  also  several  troops  of  gigantic-looking  ostriches, 
and  abundance  of  bustard  and  Namaqua  partridges.  I  shot  two  spring- 
boks, and  broke  the  foreleg  of  a  third.  Beer  Vley,  at  the  southern  end 
of  which  I  had  now  encamped,  is  a  very  extensive,  low-lying,  level 
plain ;  its  length  might  be  somewhat  about  twenty  miles,  and  its  breadth 
averaging  from  one  to  two  miles.  Through  the  entire  length  of  this 
grassy  vley  runs,  in  the  rainy  season,  a  deep  stream  of  water,  which 
meanders  in  a  very  serpentine  course  along  the  centre  of  the  plain,  and, 
overflowing  its  banks,  irrigates  and  enriches  the  surrounding  pasture. 
At  that  season,  however,  this  channel  was  perfectly  dry,  and  the  plain 
was  covered  with  rich  green  grass.  The  country  surrounding  Beer  Vley 
is  extremely  desolate  and  sterile,  consisting  of  low  rocky  hills  and  undu- 
lating sandy  plains,  barely  covered  with  dwarfish  scrubby  shrubs  and 
small  karroo  bushes. 

On  the  morrow  I  removed  my  encampment  about  eight  or  nine  miles 
farther  down  the  vley,  being  obliged,  from  the  broken  and  uneven 
nature  of  the  ground,  to  march  in  a  semicircular  course,  holding  along 
the  outside  of  the  vley.  I  drew  up  my  waggons  on  the  plain  close  to 
the  bank  of  a  dry  channel,  with  a  fine  large  pool  of  running  water  in 
my  vicinity.  This  was  the  finest  place  that  can  be  described  to  shoot 
springboks,  and  also  to  select  extraordinary  specimens  on  account  of 
their  horns,  which  I  was  anxious  to  do.  The  country,  on  every  side, 
was  covered  with  immense  herds  of  these  antelopes,  and  they  all  seemed 
to  have  an  inclination  to  come  and  feed  close  along  the  side  of  the 
watercourse  beside  which  we  lay.  This  channel  being  about  ten  feet 
deep,  and  extending  throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  plain,  I  had 
only  to  study  the  wind,  and  could  walk  up  within  easy  shot  of  any  herd, 
and  select  what  buck  I  pleased. 

Here  I  remained  for  several  days  enjoying  brilliant  sport,  and  daily 
securing  fine  specimens  of  oryx,  springboks,  and  other  game.  Here, 
also,  I  shot  my  first  ostrich,  a  fine  old  cock.  It  was  a  very  long  shot ; 
I  gave  my  rifle  several  feet  of  elevation,  yet  nevertheless  the  ball 
struck  him  on  the  leg,  breaking  it  below  the  knee,  when  he  fell  and 
was  unable  to  rise.  The  power  possessed  by  an  ostrich  in  his  leg 
can  hardly  be  imagined.  The  thigh  is  very  muscular,  and  resembles 
that  of  a  horse  more  than  of  a  bird.  In  the  act  of  dying,  he  lashed  out 
and  caught  me  a  severe  blow  on  my  leg,  which  laid  me  prostrate. 


LEAVE  BEER  VLEY.  69 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Leave  Beer  Vley — A  Bushboy  captured  and  enlisted  as  a  Follower — Famous  Sport 
with  Wildebeest  and  Quaggas  from  a  Hunting-hole — Water  fails,  and  we  march 
to  the  Great  Orange  Biver — Beautiful  Appearance  of  the  Biver — Stink  Von- 
teyn,  a  famous  sporting  quarter — An  Ostrich's  Nest — Bold  Mountain  Banges — 
The  Griqua  Tribe,  their  Manners  and  Customs — An  ancient  Mimosa  Forest — 
Besidence  of  a  Bushman — Successful  Chase  of  a  noble  Bull  Oryx. 

On  the  9th  I  considered  I  had  sufficiently  long  enjoyed  the  sweets  of 
Beer  Vley  ;  and  accordingly,  the  waggons  being  properly  packed,  I  in- 
spanned  in  the  afternoon,  and  trekked  to  the  south.  On  the  following 
morning  we  inspanned  at  the  dawn  of  day,  and  retraced  our  steps  to 
the  Rhinoceros  Fool.  The  heat  continued  most  oppressive,  the  wind 
still  northerly.  We  were  infested  with  myriads  of  common  flies,  which 
proved  a  constant  annoyance,  filling  tent  and  waggons  to  such  a  degree 
that  it  was  impossible  to  sit  in  them.  I  rode  out  in  the  morning  of  the 
11th,  accompanied  by  an  after-rider,  and  shot  two  springboks,  which  we 
bore  to  camp  secured  on  our  horses  behind  our  saddles  by  passing  the 
buckles  of  the  girths  on  each  side  through  the  fore  and  hind  legs  of  the 
antelopes,  having  first  performed  an  incision  between  the  bone  and  the 
sinews  with  the  couteau-de-chasse,  according  to  colonial  usage. 

The  Boers  had  informed  me  of  a  small  fountain  one  march  in  advance, 
where  they  recommended  me  to  hunt  for  a  short  time,  and  this  place  I 
intended  to  be  my  next  encampment.  On  the  morrow  we  inspanned 
at  earliest  dawn,  and  trekked  about  ten  miles  in  a  north-easterly  course 
across  a  barren  extensive  plain,  steering  parallel  with  the  country  fre- 
quented by  the  oryx.  We  drew  up  our  waggons  at  a  place  where  some 
Boers  had  been  encamped  during  the  winter  months.  Here  we  found  a 
well  with  nothing  but  mud  in  it.  I  set  to  work  with  the  spade  and 
cleaned  it  out,  and  presently  had  good  water  for  myself  and  people.  I 
despatched  one  of  my  Hottentots  on  horseback  to  seek  for  water  in  ad- 
vance for  the  horses  and  oxen.  He  shortly  returned,  and  reported 
another  deserted  Boer  encampment  about  a  mile  ahead,  at  which  there 
was  a  stronger  fountain,  but  considerably  choked  with  mud. 

Having  breakfasted,  I  removed  my  waggons  thither,  and  encamped. 
This  fountain  will  be  ever  memorable  in  the  annals  of  my  African  cam- 
paign, since  on  the  following  day  I  was  there  joined  by  a  unique  and 
interesting  specimen  of  a  Bushman,  who  has  ever  since  faithfully  fol- 
lowed my  fortunes  through  every  peril  and  hardship  by  sea  and  land ; 
and  is  at  the  moment  that  I  write  brandishing  in  the  Highlands  of 
Scotland  an  imitation  of  a  Cape  waggon- whip  which  he  has  constructed, 
and  calling  out  with  stentorian  lungs  the  names  of  the  oxen  composing 
the  team  which  he,  at  a  subsequent  period,  drove  when  he  alone  stood 
by  me,  all  my  followers  having  forsaken  me  in  the  far  interior. 

In  the  afternoon  I  saddled  up,  and  started  with  my  two  after-riders 
and  a  spare  horse,  with  the  intention  of  sleeping  in  the  oryx  country, 
and  hunting  next  day.  We  rode  north  through  sandy  plains  and 
hollows  on  which  large  herds  of  gnoos  and  springboks  were  grazing. 
Just  as  the  sun  descended  we  started  a  fine  old  bull  oryx.     We  dis- 


70    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

covered  him  in  a  bushy  hollow  ;  after  a  sharp  burst  Cobus  managed  to 
turn  him,  when,  by  heading  him,  I  got  within  range,  and  finished  him 
with  a  couple  of  shots.  It  was  now  dark;  having  off-saddled  our  horses, 
we  knee-haltered  them,  and  allowed  them  to  graze  for  an  hour ;  after 
which,  having  secured  them  to  a  neighbouring  bush,  we  lay  down  to 
sleep  on  the  hard  ground.  My  pillow  was  the  neck  of  the  old  bull ;  the 
jackal  sang  his  coronach. 

On  the  13th  I  shot  a  fine  old  steinbok,  and  on  nearing  my  encamp- 
ment I  discovered  two  different  vleys,  containing  water.  Upon  reaching 
my  camp  I  found  a  funny  little  fellow  in  the  shape  of  the  Bushboy  be- 
fore alluded  to,  awaiting  my  arrival.  My  Hottentots  had  detected  his 
black  woolly  head  protruding  from  the  reeds  adjoining  the  fountain, 
and  had  captured  him.  I  presented  him  with  a  suit  of  new  clothes  and 
a  glass  of  spirits,  and  we  immediately  became  and  have  ever  since  con- 
tinued the  best  of  friends.  He  informed  me  that,  when  a  child,  he  was 
taken  by  a  party  of  Dutch  Boers  at  a  massacre  of  his  countrymen,  and 
from  these  he  had  subsequently  absconded  on  account  of  their  cruel 
treatment  of  him.  The  Boers  had  named  him  "Kuyter,"  probably  after 
a  certain  Dutch  admiral,  which  name  he  still  bears. 

In  the  afternoon  I  rode  to  one  of  the  vleys,  accompanied  by  two  of 
my  men,  bearing  pickaxes  and  spades  and  my  bedding.  We  dug  a 
shooting  hole  on  the  usual  principle,  about  three  feet  deep  and  eight  in 
diameter,  on  the  lee  side  of  the  largest  vley.  In  this  hole  I  used  to  take 
my  station  every  night — the  jackals  and  hysenas  growling  around  me — 
and  await  the  coming  of  the  dawn  to  get  a  sight  of  the  game  that  came 
to  drink.  In  this  manner  I  enjoyed  excellent  sport  among  the  wilde- 
beests and  quaggas  until  the  17th,  when,  through  want  of  water  for  my 
oxen,  I  was  compelled  to  march  for  the  great  Orange  River,  which  was 
the  nearest  water,  being  distant  upwards  of  thirty  miles.  We  inspanned 
in  the  afternoon,  and,  having  performed  a  march  of  twelve  miles,  hold- 
ing a  north-easterly  course,  I  outspanned  for  a  couple  of  hours  to  allow 
my  oxen  to  graze  ;  after  which  I  again  inspanned,  and  trekked  about 
twelve  miles  farther  by  moonlight,  when  we  halted  till  the  day  dawned, 
making  fast  the  horses  and  oxen.  The  country  here  assumed  a  less 
sterile  appearance  than  that  which  I  had  occupied  during  the  last  five 
weeks,  being  ornamented  with  a  few  ancient  trees,  bearing  a  leaf 
resembling  that  of  the  willow,  and  called  by  the  Dutch  "  olean-wood ; ': 
there  were  also  a  few  dwarfish  thorny  trees  of  a  species  of  mimosa. 

On  the  18th  we  inspanned  at  the  dawn  of  day,  and  after  a  march  of 
about  four  hours  through  a  wild  and  uninhabited  country  we  suddenly 
found  ourselves  on  the  bank  of  the  magnificent  Orange  Eiver.  This 
queen  of  African  rivers  forms  a  leading  feature  in  the  geography  of 
Southern  Africa.  Its  length,  I  believe,  is  somewhere  about  a  thousand 
miles.  It  rises  in  the  east,  in  the  Vitbergen  mountain-range,  a  little  to 
the  northward  of  the  latitude  of  Port  Natal,  and,  flowing  westward,  it  is 
joined  by  the  fair  Vaal  river  about  fifty  miles  below  the  spot  where  I 
had  now  arrived  ;  thence  it  continues  its  course  westward,  and  falls  into 
the  South  Atlantic  about  five  hundred  miles  to  the  north  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  We  made  the  river  at  a  place  called  Davinar's  Drift  or  ford, 
beside  which  was  a  comfortable  Dutch  farm.     The  owner  was  a  young 


LAEGE    FLOCKS    OF    BIRDS.  71 

—  -■    ■ 1 — — — — • —  —     ■       ... . .  i . . .         ...        — .  ■■  -  ■-.....  ■  » . , 

Boer  from  the  Cape  district,  and  had  obtained  his  present  enviable 
position  by  marrying  a  fat  old  widow.  Their  chief  riches  consisted  of 
sheep  and  goats,  of  which  they  possessed  enormous  flocks,  which  were 
in  very  fine  condition,  the  country  being  suitable  for  pasturing  these 
animals.  Large  herds  of  trekking  springboks  were  feeding  in  sight  of 
the  homestead.  I  had  passed  several  herds  on  my  morning's  march,  and 
had  shot  three,  which  were  in  good  order. 

The  Boers,  contrary  to  my  expectation,  reported  the  river  fordable, 
though  I  had  been  informed  that  it  was  very  large.  Before  venturing 
to  cross  we  were  occupied  for  upwards  of  an  hour  in  raising  the  goods 
liable  to  be  damaged  by  water,  by  means  of  a  platform  consisting  of 
green  willow  boughs,  with  which  we  filled  the  bottom  of  the  waggons, 
and  then  replaced  the  cargo.  The  descent  on  our  side  was  extremely 
steep,  and  we  found  it  necessary  to  rheim,  viz.,  to  secure,  by  means  of 
the  drag-chains,  both  hind  wheels  of  each  waggon.  The  drift  was  ex- 
tremely rough,  and  jolted  the  waggons  about  sadly.  We,  however,  got 
safely  through,  and,  having  proceeded  about  half  a  mile  up  the  opposite 
bank,  we  encamped. 

No  person  who  has  not  contemplated  a  magnificent  river  under  similar 
circumstances  can  form  an  idea  of  the  pleasure  I  felt  in  reaching  this 
oasis  of  the  desert.  For  many  weeks  past  our  lot  had  been  cast  in  the 
arid  plains  of  the  parched  karroo,  where  there  had  often  been  barely 
sufficient  water  for  our  cattle  to  drink,  with  cloudless  skies  and  an  in- 
tense burning  sun  over  our  heads,  and  no  tree  nor  bush  of  any  descrip- 
tion whose  friendly  shade  might  shelter  us  from  the  power  of  its  rays. 
Here,  "o'  the  sudden,"  a  majestic  river  rolled  before  our  delighted  eyes, 
whose  fertile  banks  were  adorned  with  groves  clad  in  everlasting  ver- 
dure. At  the  spot  where  we  crossed,  the  river  reminded  me  of  the 
appearance  exhibited  by  certain  parts  of  the  river  Spey  in  summer  dur- 
ing a  spate.  The  breadth  of  the  Orange  River,  however,  is  in  general 
about  three  hundred  yards.  The  whole  of  the  banks  are  ornamented  with 
a  rich  fringe  of  weeping  willows,  whose  branches  dip  into  the  stream, 
and  also  of  many  other  trees  and  bushes  whose  blossoms  and  pleasing 
foliage  yielded  the  most  delicious  balmy  perfume. 

Numerous  flocks  of  the  feathered  tribe  by  their  beautiful  plumage  and 
melodious  notes  increased  the  charm  of  this  lovely  scene.  The  entomo- 
logist could  likewise  have  found  abundance  of  interesting  objects  in  his 
department,  the  ground  and  trees  swarming  with  curious,  if  not  gaudy, 
insects.  My  first  move  after  halting  was  to  enjoy  a  delightful  bath  ; 
after  which,  having  donned  my  best  apparel,  I  recrossed  the  river  on 
horseback  to  visit  the  happy  couple  whose  farm  I  have  previously  de- 
scribed. 

I  found  them  civil  and  communicative,  and  obtained  from  them  a 
supply  of  vegetables,  which  to  me  were  most  acceptable,  having  tasted 
nothing  of  that  sort  for  many  weeks.  They  informed  me  that  about 
fifteen  miles  in  a  northerly  direction  there  was  a  saltpan,  in  the  vicinity 
of  which  I  might  find  koodoos  and  sassaybys,  in  addition  to  the  varieties 
of  game  which  I  had  already  hunted.  I  walked  through  their  garden, 
which,  besides  vegetables  in  great  variety,  contained  several  kinds  of 
fruit-trees,   such  as  peaches,   apricots,   etc. ;    these  throve   well,   their 


72     HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

■  ■  -  ■■  •**    ■■—■■■  -■    - i  ■■■—--  ,       ..,..-■  ...  i        .     ,  .  ■■—■■■■ 

branches  being  laden  with  abundance  of  fruit.  On  the  'forenoon  of  the 
19th,  having  twice  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  bathing,  I  saddled  up,  and 
rode  north  to  an  extensive  range  of  rocky  hills  to  seek  for  koodoos. 
Crossing  an  extensive  plain  which  intervened,  I  came  upon  an  ostrich's 
nest,  containing  two  eggs;  the  cock  was  sitting  on  the  nest,  and,  imagin- 
ing that  we  would  pass  without  observing  him,  he  allowed  us  to  ride 
within  sixty  yards  before  he  started.  I  found  the  hills  for  which  I  rode 
of  so  stony  and  rocky  a  character  that  it  was  impossible  to  ride  through 
them.  They,  however,  bore  a  goodly  coating  of  rank  grass  of  various 
kinds,  and  the  hollows  contained  a  few  dwarfish  bushes.  Leaving  my 
steed  in  charge  of  my  after-rider,  I  traversed,  with  my  rifle,  several  of 
these  rocky  ranges,  but  failed  to  find  any  traces  of  koodoos.  It  was  the 
sort  of  country  exactly  suited  for  the  raebok,  to  which  I  have  already 
alluded,  and  of  these  antelopes  I  discovered  three  small  herds. 

On  ascending  to  the  summit  of  the  highest  hill  in  my  vicinity,  I  com- 
manded a  grand  panoramic  view  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  An  end- 
less succession  of  bold  mountains,  of  considerable  height,  extended  as  far 
as  I  could  see  in  a  northerly  and  easterly  direction.  Some  of  them  were 
tabular,  but  others  of  conical  and  pyramidal  shapes  towered  above  their 
fellows  ;  their  abrupt  forms  standing  forth  in  grand  relief  above  the 
surrounding  country.  Throughout  all  these  mountain-ranges  plains  of 
considerable  extent,  more  or  less  undulating,  intervened. 

At  one  P.M.  on  the  following  day  I  inspanned  and  trekked  north  to 
the  saltpan,  which  we  reached  in  the  dark.  The  general  character  of 
the  country  became  richer  after  crossing  the  Orange  River.  The  plains 
were  adorned  with  a  more  luxuriant  coating  of  grass  and  in  greater 
profusion  ;  and  the  small  karroo  bushes  were  replaced  by  others  of 
fairer  growth,  and  of  a  different  variety.  Most  of  these  yielded  a  strong 
aromatic  perfume,  but  more  particularly  when  the  ground  had  been 
refreshed  by  a  shower  of  rain ;  on  which  occasions  the  African  wilder- 
ness diffuses  a  perfume  so  exquisite  and  balmy,  that  no  person  that  has 
not  experienced  its  delights  can  form  an  idea  of  it.  Our  march  lay 
through  an  extensive  undulating  country.  We  passed  several  troops  of 
hartebeests  and  springboks,  and  saw  for  the  first  time  one  sassayby,  a 
large  antelope  allied  to  the  hartebeest,  and  of  a  purple  colour.  Moun- 
tain ranges  bound  the  view  on  every  side,  and  I  could  discover  by  means 
of  my  spyglass  that  strips  of  forests  of  mimosa  stretched  along  their 
bases.  The  saltpan  to  which  we  had  come  was  of  an  oval  shape,  and 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  diameter. 

It  was  a  low  basin,  whose  sides  sloped  gently  down,  but  the  middle 
was  a  dead  level  of  fine  sand.  Upon  this  sand,  throughout  the  greater 
part  of  the  pan,  lay  a  thick  layer  of  good  coarse  salt,  varying  from  one 
to  four  inches  in  depth.  Heavy  rains  fill  the  pan  or  basin  with  water, 
and,  the  dry  season  succeeding,  the  water  disappears,  and  large  deposits 
of  salt  are  found.  These  pans  or  salt-licks  are  met  with  in  several  parts 
of  South  Africa.  Those  which  mainly  supply  the  colony  with  good  salt 
are  situated  between  Utenage  and  Algoa  Bay  ;  they  are  of  considerable 
extent,  and  yield  a  surprising  quantity.  Ostriches  and  almost  every 
variety  of  antelope  frequent  these  pans  for  the  purpose  of  licking  the 
brack  or  salt  ground,  to  which  they  are  very  partial.      The  pan  which 


WILD-LOOKING    BUSHMEN.  73 


we  had  reached  was  formerly  visited  by  Boers  and  Griquas  for  the  pur- 
pose of  obtaining  salt,  but  had  of  late  years  been  abandoned  for  others 
yielding  it  of  a  better  quality.  The  country  around  was  consequently 
undisturbed ;  and,  being  utterly  uninhabited,  was  lonely  and  as  still  as 
the  grave. 

On  the  morning  of  the  21st  I  left  my  waggons  encamped  beside  the 
salt-pan,  and,  having  proceeded  about  half-a-mile  in  a  northerly  direction 
along  a  seldom  trodden  waggon-track,  I  discovered  a  fountain  of  excel- 
lent water,  but  very  strongly  impregnated  with  saltpetre.  This  fountain 
I  afterwards  learnt  is  termed  by  the  Boers  "  Cruit  Vonteyn,"  or  Powder 
Fountain,  its  waters  resembling  the  washings  of  a  gun-barrel ;  but  the 
Griquas  more  elegantly  call  it  "  Stink  Vonteyn."  At  breakfast-time  I 
was  joined  by  a  party  of  ruffianly  Griquas,  who  were  proceeding  with  a 
dilapidated-looking  waggon,  which  had  no  sail,  to  hunt  hartebeests  and 
blue  wildebeests,  in  the  vicinity  of  a  small  fountain  to  the  north-east 
where  game  was  reported  abundant. 

They  were  accompanied  by  several  wild-looking,  naked  Bushmen  atten- 
dants, whom  they  had  captured  when  young,  and  domesticated.  These 
drove  their  shooting-horses  loose  behind  the  waggon,  grazing  as  they 
went  along.  I  also  observed  a  couple  of  milch-cows  with  calves  among 
their  loose  oxen,  a  healthy  luxury  without  which  that  race  of  people 
seldom  proceed  on  a  journey.  The  country  occupied  by  the  Griquas 
extends  from  Rhama,  a  village  on  the  Orange  Eiver,  about  thirty  miles 
to  the  east  of  my  present  position,  to  Griquastadt  their  capital,  a  village 
situated  about  a  hundred  miles  to  the  northward  of  the  junction  of  the 
Vaal  with  the  Orange  Eiver.  They  are  governed  by  a  chief,  whose 
name  is  Waterboer.  These  men  are  of  Hottentot  origin,  and  in  general 
possess  the  distinguishing  features  of  that  race,  such  as  broad,  flat  noses, 
high  cheek  bones,  small,  elephant  eyes,  thick  lips,  woolly  hair,  and 
other  Hottentot  peculiarities,  which,  in  the  present  enlightened  state  of 
society,  it  were  superfluous  to  enumerate. 

They  are,  however,  so  mixed  up  with  crosses  of  other  tribes  that 
every  ramification  of  breed  between  Boers,  Bechuanas,  Mozambiques, 
Oorannas,  Namaqua  Hottentots,  Bushmen,  etc.,  may  be  found  located 
within  their  territory.  All  of  these  intermarry.  Some  of  them  have 
long  black  hair,  while  the  craniums  of  others,  such  as  the  Bushmen,  are 
adorned  with  detached  tufts  of  sickly-looking  crisp  wool,  and  the  issue 
of  such  unions  exhibit  locks  singularly  varied. 

Another  tribe  of  men  in  every  way  similar  to  these  Griquas  inhabit 
an  extensive  and  fertile  country  immediately  to  the  east  of  their  terri- 
tory. These  men  term  themselves  Bastards.  Their  chief's  name  is 
Adam  Kok.  The  name  of  their  capital  is  Philipolis,  a  small  village 
about  thirty  miles  to  the  north  of  Colesberg.  Their  country  is  bounded 
on  the  south  by  the  Great  Orange  River,  and  is  about  the  most  desirable 
district  in  Southern  Africa  for  farming  purposes,  there  being  abundance 
of  fountains  throughout  its  whole  extent  capable  of  being  led  out  to 
irrigate  the  land,  without  which  no  gardens  can  be  formed,  nor  wheat 
grown  in  that  country.  Rich  pasture  is  abundant.  Cattle  and  sheep 
thrive  and  breed  remarkably  well ;  goats,  also,  an  animal  valuable  to 


74    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

the  South  African  settler,  but  for  which  only  certain  districts  are  suit- 
able, are  here  very  prolific. 

The  goat  in  many  districts  is  subject  to  a  disease  called  by  the  Boers 
"brunt  sickta,"  or  burnt  sickness,  owing  to  the  animals  afflicted  with  it 
exhibiting  the  appearance  of  having  been  burnt.  It  is  incurable  ;  and 
if  the  animals  infected  are  not  speedily  killed,  or  put  out  of  the  way, 
the  contagion  rapidly  spreads,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  for  a  farmer  to 
lose  his  entire  flock  with  it.  This  sad  distemper  also  extends  itself  to 
the  fern  naturce.  I  have  shot  hartebeests,  black  wildebeests,  blesbucks, 
and  springbucks  with  their  bodies  covered  with  this  disease.  I  have 
known  seasons  when  the  three  latter  animals  were  so  generally  affected 
by  it,  that  the  vast  plains  throughout  which  they  are  found  were 
covered  with  hundreds  of  skulls  and  skeletons  of  those  that  had  died 
therefrom. 

One  of  the  chief  recommendations  of  the  Bastard's  country  is  its 
admirable  suitableness  for  breeding  horses.  Large  herds  of  these  may 
be  seen  throughout  their  country  pasturing  high  on  the  mountain  sides, 
or  scattered  in  troops  over  its  grassy  plains.  The  deadly  distemper  so 
prevalent  along  the  frontiers  of  the  colony  is  here  of  comparatively  rare 
occurrence.  In  the  far  interior,  however,  it  is  so  virulent  during  five 
or  six  months  of  the  year,  that  it  is  often  impossible  to  save  a  single 
horse,  and  through  its  ravages  I  was  annually  in  the  habit  of  losing  the 
greater  part  of  my  stud. 

The  chiefs  of  the  Griquas  and  Bastards  are  in  close  alliance  with  the 
English  government,  which  protects  them  from  the  attacks  of  the  rebel 
Dutch  Boers.  These,  well  aware  of  the  excellent  qualities  of  the  Bas- 
tard's country,  are  possessed  with  a  strong  desire  to  appropriate  it. 
The  language  spoken  by  both  these  tribes  is  Dutch.  They  have  in 
general  embraced  the  Christian  religion,  and  several  worthy  missionaries 
have,  for  several  years  past,  devoted  their  lives  to  the  improvement  of 
their  temporal  and  eternal  condition.  The  dress  worn  by  the  men  con- 
sists of  home-made  leathern  jacket,  waiscoat,  and  trousers,  feldtschoens, 
or  home-made  shoes,  a  Malay  handkerchief  tied  round  the  head,  and  on 
Sundays  and  other  great  occasions  a  shirt  and  a  neckcloth.  The  females 
wear  a  close-fitting  corset  reaching  to  the  small  of  the  waist,  below 
which  they  sport  a  petticoat  like  the  women  of  other  countries.  These 
petticoats  are  sometimes  made  of  stuffs  of  British  manufacture,  and  at 
other  times  of  soft  leather  prepared  by  themselves.  Their  head-dress 
consists  of  two  handkerchiefs,  one  of  black  silk,  the  other  of  a  striped 
red  and  green  colour,  usually  termed  Malay  handkerchiefs.  They  are 
very  fond  of  beads  of  every  size  and  colour,  which  they  hang  in  large 
necklaces  round  their  necks.  They  have  one  description  of  bead 
peculiar  to  themselves  and  to  the  tribes  extending  along  the  banks  of 
the  Great  Orange  River  to  its  junction  with  the  sea.  This  bead  is 
formed  of  the  root  of  a  bush  found  near  the  mouth  of  the  Orange  River, 
and  possesses  a  sweet  and  peculiar  perfume.  Every  Griqua  girl  wears 
at  least  one  of  these ;  and  no  traveller  who  has  once  learnt  to  prize  this 
perfume  can  inhale  it  again  without  its  inadvertently  recalling  to  his 
memory  the  fine  dark  eyes  and  fair  forms  of  the  semi-civilized  nymphs 
frequenting  the  northern  bank  of  the  Orange  stream. 


THE  GKIQUAS.  75 


Their  houses  somewhat  resemble  a  bee-hive  or  ant-hill,  consisting  of 
boughs  of  trees  stuck  into  the  ground  in  a  circular  form,  and  lashed 
down  across  one  another  overhead  so  as  to  form  a  framework,  on  which 
they  spread  large  mats  formed  of  reeds.  These  mats  are  also  used 
instead  of  waggon-sails,  and  are  very  effectual  in  resisting  both  sun  and 
rain.  The  diameter  of  these  dome-shaped  huts  varies  from  ten  to  fifteen 
feet.  On  changing  their  quarters,  which  they  are  occasionally  com- 
pelled to  do  on  account  of  pasture,  it  will  easily  be  understood  that 
they  have  little  difficulty  in  removing  their  house  along  with  them. 

A  strong  pack-ox  can  travel  with  the  whole  concern  placed  on  his 
back  ;  and  on  occasions  of  their  migration  I  have  seen  a  pack-ox  carry- 
ing not  only  its  master's  house  on  its  back,  but  also  a  complete  set  of 
dairy  utensils,  all  manufactured  of  wood,  a  couple  of  skin  bags  contain- 
ing thick  milk,  various  cooking  utensils,  and,  surmounting  all,  the  guid- 
wife,  with  one  or  two  of  her  children.  They  are  all  possessed  of  flocks 
and  herds  of  goats,  sheep,  and  cattle.  A  description  of  the  houses  and 
manner  of  living  of  these  people  may  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  all  the 
tribes  that  border  on  the  Vaal  and  Orange  Eivers  to  the  sea.  They  are, 
without  exception,  of  an  indolent  disposition,  and  averse  from  hard 
work  of  any  description.  Much  of  their  time  is  spent  in  hunting,  and 
large  parties  annually  leave  their  homes  and  proceed  with  their  wag- 
gons, oxen,  and  horses  on  hunting  expeditions  into  the  far  interior,  ab- 
senting themselves  for  a  period  of  from  three  to  four  months. 

They  are  a  people  remarkable  for  their  disregard  for  truth,  a  weak- 
ness which  I  regret  to  state  I  found  very  prevalent  in  Southern  Africa. 
They  are  also  great  beggars,  generally  commencing  by  soliciting  for 
"  trexels,"  a  trexel  being  a  pound  of  tea  or  coffee.  Knowing  the  gal- 
lantry of  our  nation,  they  affirm  this  to  be  a  present  for  a  wife  or 
daughter,  whom  they  represent  as  being  poorly.  If  this  is  granted  they 
continue  their  importunities,  successively  fancying  your  hat,  neckcloth, 
or  coat ;  and  I  have  known  them  on  several  occasions  coolly  request  me 
to  exchange  my  continuations  for  their  leathern  inexpressibles,  which 
they  had  probably  worn  for  a  couple  of  summers. 

When  this  party  of  Griquas  came  up  to  me,  being  anxious  to  see  as 
much  as  possible  of  the  natives  of  those  parts  which  I  traversed,  I  in- 
vited them  to  halt  and  drink  coffee  with  me,  an  invitation  which  a 
Griqua  was  never  yet  known  to  decline.  They  informed  me  that,  in 
the  mountain  ranges  to  the  north-east,  koodoo  were  to  be  met  with,  and 
they  invited  me  to  accompany  them  on  their  chasse.  When  breakfast 
was  finished  they  sent  their  waggon  in  advance,  with  instructions  to 
wait  for  their  arrival  at  the  fountain,  where  they  intended  to  pitch  their 
camp ;  and,  having  saddled  up,  we  all  set  forward  and  rode  east  to  hunt 
koodoos  and  hartebeests,  or  any  other  game  we  might  fall  in  with.  After 
riding  three  or  four  miles,  on  approaching  the  base  of  the  hills  we  en- 
tered an  ancient  forest  of  mimosas,  every  tree  being  a  study  for  an  ar- 
tist. There  was  also  a  considerable  undercover  of  various  sweet-smelling 
shrubs  and  bushes. 

Here  steinbok  and  duyker  were  abundant.  This  venerable  forest  ex- 
tended all  around  the  bases  of  various  ranges  of  rocky  hills  which 
stretched  in  different  directions  through  these  plains.     Close  in,  at  the 


76    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


foot  of  one  of  the  hills,  we  discovered  a  Bushman  residence,  consisting 
of  three  small  huts,  each  about  four  feet  high,  and  about  eight  in  dia- 
meter. They  were  formed  of  boughs  of  trees,  thatched  over  with  rank 
grass  drawn  up  by  the  roots.  The  natives,  as  usual,  had  fled  on  our  ap- 
proach, and  no  living  creature  was  to  be  seen.  I  entered  each  of  the 
huts,  and  found  lots  of  well  "  braid  "  (or  dressed)  skins  of  all  the  wild 
beasts  of  these  parts.  All  their  dishes  were  made  either  of  ostrich-eggs 
or  of  the  shells  of  land  tortoises,  and  these  were  ranged  round  the  floor 
on  one  side  of  the  hut.     Most  of  the  ostrich-eggshells  contained  water. 

We  crossed  the  hills  by  a  stony  neck ;  and  having  proceeded  some  dis- 
tance through  several  well-wooded  glades  and  hollows  in  the  table-land 
of  the  hills,  we  suddenly  looked  forth  upon  a  noble  prospect.  A  wide 
grassy  plain,  covered  with  picturesque  mimosas  and  detached  clumps  of 
evergreen  bushes,  stretched  away  from  the  bases  of  the  hills  on  which 
we  stood.  Beyond,  the  landscape  was  shut  in  by  the  bold  and  abrupt 
forms  of  rugged  mountain  ranges,  which  were  coloured  with  a  softened 
blue  tint.  Having  descended  into  this  fine  picturesque  plain,  we  held 
north,  riding  parallel  with  the  hilly  chain.  Presently,  my  comrades 
adopting  a  course  which  did  not  strike  me  as  the  most  likely  to  fall  in 
with  game,  I  chose  a  line  of  march  for  myself,  and,  following  along 
under  the  mountain  chain,  I  soon  lost  sight  of  them,  and  saw  them  no 
more  that  day.  On  this  occasion  I  had  taken  the  field  without  any 
after-rider. 

Having  ridden  about  a  mile  farther,  I  started  a  doe  koodoo,  the  first 
I  had  seen,  and  shortly  after  I  started  another,  with  a  young  one,  which 
I  determined  to  secure,  there  being  no  flesh  in  our  camp.  Having  pur- 
sued it  a  short  distance,  I  came  suddenly  upon  a  troop  of  koodoos,  con- 
sisting of  three  bucks  and  several  does.  Two  of  the  bucks  were  old  fel- 
lows, and  carried  magnificent,  wide-set,  long,  spiral  horns.  To  these  I 
instantly  directed  my  attention,  when  they  at  once  made,  as  koodoos 
invariably  do,  for  the  adjacent  rocky  hills.  Their  pace  was  a  succession 
of  long  bounds  over  the  thorny  bushes,  which  sadly  distressed  my  poor 
steed.  I  nevertheless  gained  on  them,  and  would  have  assuredly  secured 
one,  had  they  not  reached  a  stony  barrier  of  sharp,  hard  rocks,  over 
which  they  disappeared,  and  where  my  horse  could  not  follow.  I  was 
much  struck  with  the  noble  appearance  of  these  two  buck  koodoos,  and 
felt  very  chagrined  in  having  been  unfortunate  with  them.  Having  lost 
the  koodoos,  I  turned  my  face  to  the  south,  and  rode  along  the  skirts  of 
the  forest,  in  hope  of  falling  in  with  my  comrades. 

I  had  ridden  about  a  mile,  when  I  suddenly  perceived  a  gallant  herd 
of  nine  old  oryxes  cantering  towards  me,  all  of  them  carrying  horns  of 
immense  length  and  beauty,  surpassing  anything  I  had  hitherto  seen. 
They  were  preceded  by  four  beautifully  striped  zebras,  the  first  I  had 
met  with,  and  followed  by  two  brilliant  red  hartebeests.  In  half  a 
minute  I  was  flying  along  within  sixty  yards  of  the  troop  of  oryxes, 
carefully  studying  the  horns  of  each,  and  at  a  loss  to  decide  which  was 
the  finest,  they  were  all  so  very  handsome.  As  I  swept  along  I  deplored 
my  folly  in  having  taken  the  field  without  my  after-riders  ;  I  neverthe- 
less entertained  hopes  of  success,  as  these  antelopes  had  evidently  been 
followed  by  the  Griquas  from  whom  I  parted.    They  led  me  a  long  and 


KOODOOS  AND   OBYXES.  77 

severe  chase  along  the  skirts  of  the  hills,  the  wind  fortunately  blowing 
right  across  them. 

After  riding  hard  for  several  miles  I  felt  my  horse  very  much  dis- 
tressed, and  was  on  the  point  of  giving  up  the  pursuit,  when  I  observed 
one  old  bull  make  a  momentary  halt  under  a  mimosa,  evidently  very 
much  blown.  This  gave  me  fresh  hope ;  I  resolved  to  follow  him  as 
long  as  my  horse  could  go,  and  once  more  I  gave  chase  with  renewed 
speed.  I  was  soon  riding  opposite  to  him,  within  sixty  yards,  with  the 
hill  on  the  other  side,  and  by  a  desperate  effort  I  managed  to  cut  him 
off  from  his  comrades,  and  turn  his  head  down  the  wind.  His  fate  was 
now  sealed,  and  I  at  once  felt  that  he  was  mine.  From  this  moment  his 
pace  decreased,  and,  after  another  half  mile  of  sharp  galloping  down 
hill,  in  which  I  gained  upon  him  at  every  stride,  I  was  riding  within 
fifteen  yards  of  his  handsome,  round  stern.  His  tongue  was  now  hang- 
ing from  his  mouth,  and  long  streaks  of  foam  streamed  back  on  his  sides. 
Suddenly,  on  rounding  a  thorny  bush,  he  pulled  up  in  his  career, 
and,  facing  about,  stood  at  bay.  I  sprang  breathless  and  worn  out  from 
my  panting  steed,  and  with  a  shaking  hand  sent  a  bullet  through  his 
shoulder,  when  he  fell  and  breathed  his  last. 

This  noble  oryx  carried  the  finest  horns  I  had  met  with,  and  I  had, 
moreover,  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  he  was  the  finest  in  the  herd. 
Having  off-saddled  and  knee-haltered  my  horse,  I  commenced  cutting  off 
the  head  of  the  oryx,  which  I  accomplished  with  some  trouble,  the  skin 
at  the  neck  being  an  inch  in  thickness.  I  then  broke  thorny  branches 
from  a  neighbouring  mimosa,  which  I  heaped  over  the  carcase,  to  pro- 
tect it  from  the  vultures.  This  being  accomplished,  I  returned  to  camp, 
carrying  the  head  on  the  pommel  of  the  saddle  before  me,  and  my  rifle 
over  my  shoulder.  On  occasions  like  this  I  have  often  felt  that  I  should 
have  been  the  better  for  a  third  hand  for  the  management  of  my  steed. 
At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning  I  left  my  waggons,  accom- 
panied by  two  after-riders,  to  look  for  koodoos,  and  secure  the  skin  of 
the  oryx  of  the  preceding  day.  Contrary  to  my  expectations,  the 
hysenas  had  not  discovered  him.  The  flesh,  however,  owing  to  the  heat 
of  the  weather  was  unserviceable.  I  rode  with  my  boys  deployed  into 
line  along  the  likely  part  of  the  old  mimosa  forest,  hoping  to  fall  in  with 
koodoos.  Here  I  shot  two  fine  old  steinboks,  with  very  good  horns,  and 
these  I  carefully  preserved  for  my  collection.  By  firing  I  lost  a  chance 
of  koodoos,  as  I  presently  discovered  fresh  spoor  of  a  troop  of  these  an- 
telopes, which  my  shots  had  disturbed. 

Eeturning  towards  my  waggons,  I  rode  through  a  gorge  in  the  moun- 
tains where  I  had  started  a  pack  of  about  thirty  wild  dogs  in  the  morn- 
ing. Observing  a  number  of  vultures  sitting  on  the  rocks  about  the 
place  from  which  the  dogs  had  started,  I  at  once  knew  that  they  had 
killed  some  animal ;  and  on  riding  up  I  discovered  the  skeleton  of  an 
old  doe  koodoo,  which  they  had  run  into  and  consumed.  They  had  not 
cracked  the  marrow-bones,  which  the  hysenas  would  have  done  if  left 
there  till  after  sunset.  These,  therefore,  my  Hottentots  hastily  took 
possession  of,  the  marrow  of  the  thigh-bones  of  the  koodoo  being  by 
them  esteemed  a  great  delicacy.  Springing  from  their  horses,  they 
triumphantly  seized  the  skeleton ;  and,  each  selecting  for  himself  a 


78   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

couple  of  stones,  they  sat  down  on  the  ground,  cracked  the  marrow- 
bones, and  greedily  devoured  their  raw  contents. 

On  reaching  the  waggons  we  found  an  extremely  ancient  and  shri- 
velled-looking  Bushman,  who  chattered  just  like  a  monkey.  He  signed 
to  me  that  I  had  visited  his  hut  on  the  preceding  day,  but  that  he 
feared  the  Griquas  who  accompanied  me.  He  also  intimated  that  he 
feared  the  Boers ;  but  he  knew  from  the  appearance  of  my  waggons 
that  they  belonged  to  an  Englishman.  He  also  signified  to  me  that, 
when  the  moon  should  rise,  blue  wildebeests  would  come  and  drink  at 
"  Stink  Vonteyn."  This  fact  I  had  already  ascertained  from  personal 
observation,  having  seen  their  spoor  by  the  water.  In  the  evening, 
having  taken  several  cups  of  strong  coffee  to  keep  me  awake,  I  walked 
to  the  fountain  with  four  of  my  followers,  bearing  spades  and  pickaxe, 
and  my  bedding  to  watch  for  wild  animals.  Having  constructed  a  shoot- 
hole,  my  men  retired,  and  I  took  up  my  position  for  the  night,  which 
was  mild  and  lovely,  with  good  moonlight.  After  watching  several 
hours  I  fell  asleep. 

About  midnight  my  light  sleep  was  disturbed  by  the  tramp  of  ap- 
proaching wild  animals.  I  peeped  from  my  hole,  and  saw  a  herd  of 
about  twenty  shaggy  blue  wildebeests,  or  brindled  gnoos,  cautiously 
advancing  to  the  water.  They  were  preceded  by  a  patriarchial  old  bull, 
the  finest  in  the  herd.  I  fired  at  him,  and  heard  the  ball  tell  upon  his 
shoulder,  upon  which  he  and  the  whole  troop  galloped  off  in  a  northerly 
direction,  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  red  dust.  Being;  thirsty,  I  then 
walked  up  to  the  eye  of  the  fountain,  and  having  imbibed  a  draught  of 
its  sulphurous  waters,  in  a  very  few  minutes  I  was  once  more  asleep. 

On  the  23rd  I  stood  up  in  my  hole  at  dawn  of  day,  and,  having 
donned  my  old  grey  kilt  and  Badenoch  brogues,  I  took  up  the  spoor  of 
the  herd  of  brindled  gnoos.  After  I  had  proceeded  a  short  distance  I 
perceived  the  head  of  the  old  bull  looking  at  me  over  a  small  rise  on 
the  bushy  plain.  The  head  disappeared,  and  I  heard  a  loud  noise  of 
tramping,  as  of  an  animal  endeavouring  to  gallop  upon  three  legs.  On 
gaining  this  rise  I  again  saw  the  handsome  head,  with  its  strangely- 
hooked,  fair-set  horns,  gazing  at  me  from  the  long  grass  some  hundred 
yards  in  advance.  He  had  lain  down.  I  held  as  though  I  intended  to 
go  past  him  ;  but  before  I  neared  him  he  sprang  to  his  feet,  and  endea- 
voured to  make  off  from  me.  Poor  old  bull !  I  at  once  perceived  that 
it  was  all  over  with  him.  He  was  very  faint  from  loss  of  blood,  and  one 
fore  leg  was  broken  in  the  shoulder.  He  made  a  tottering  run  of  about 
a  hundred  yards,  and  again  lay  down,  never  more  to  rise.  I  walked  up 
to  within  eighty  yards  of  him,  and  sent  a  bullet  through  his  heart. 
Receiving  the  ball,  he  rolled  over  on  his  side,  and  expired  without  a 
groan. 

I  then  made  for  my  waggons,  and  despatched  men  with  a  span  or 
team  of  oxen  to  slip  the  wildebeest  to  camp.  He  afforded  us  a  welcome 
supply  of  excellent  flesh,  as  he  was  in  fine  condition.  I  breakfasted  on 
an  ostrich-egg,  Kleinboy  having  found  a  nest  the  preceding  day.  He 
had  unfortunately  taken  only  eight  of  the  eggs  out  of  the  nest,  foolishly 
leaving  the  other  twelve,  which  on  his  return,  he  found  smashed  by  the 
old  birds,  according  to  their  usual  custom. 


LOOKING  FOR  ROAN  ANTELOPES.    79 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

We  leave  Stink  Vonteyn  and  reach  the  Vaal  River — Wait-a-bit  Thorns — Chase  and 
kill  a  Buck  Koodoo,  and  bivouac  on  the  ground — Cobus  and  Jacob  abscond — 
Roan  Antelope — We  recross  the  Vaal  River— Griqua  Encampment — Stink  Von- 
teyn again — A  Flight  of  Locusts — A  Saltpan — Salubrious  Climate — Boers  at- 
tempt to  carry  off  Ruyter — A  Cameeldorn  Forest — A  Brindled  Gnoo  bayed  by 
Wild  Dogs — Habits  of  the  latter. 

On  the  evening  of  the  24th  we  in  spanned,  and,  leaving  "  Stink  Von- 
teyn," marched  upon  the  Vaal  River,  distant  about  twenty-five  miles. 
Our  road  lay  through  soft  sand,  rendering  the  work  very  severe  for  the 
oxen.  About  two  A.M.  on  the  following  morning  we  reached  the  fair 
Vaal  River  by  fine  moonlight.  Having  sent  mounted  men  through  the 
stream  to  -ascertain  its  depth,  and  finding  a  passage  practicable,  I  re- 
solved at  once  to  cross  it — a  rule  generally  adopted  by  all  experienced 
in  the  country,  among  whom  a  general  maxim  prevails  never  to  defer 
the  passage  of  a  river  if  at  all  fordable  when  they  reach  it.  Endless  are 
the  stories  related  by  South  African  travellers,  who,  by  failing  to  adopt 
this  plan  have  been  compelled  to  remain  for  weeks,  and  even  months, 
on  the  banks  of  its  various  rivers.  The  current  here  being  very  power- 
ful, I  mounted  the  leaders  of  my  teams,  and  in  a  few  minutes  my  long 
double  line  of  oxen  was  stoutly  stemming  the  rapid  stream,  which 
reached  half  way  up  their  sides.  We  got  both  the  waggons  across  in 
safety.  The  water  had  just  reached  the  bottom  of  my  cargoes,  but  did 
not  damage  anything. 

The  bank  on  the  farther  side  was  extremely  steep  and  stony,  and  re- 
quired every  ox  to  exert  himself  to  the  utmost.  The  river  here  is  very 
beautiful ;  broad  and  rapid  streams  are  succeeded  by  long,  deep,  and 
tranquil  pools,  termed  by  the  natives  "zekoe  ychots,"  signifying  sea-cow 
or  hippopotamus  holes ;  these  vast  and  wondrous  amphibious  animals 
having,  not  many  years  since,  been  plentiful  along  the  entire  length  of 
the  Vaal  River.  The  hippopotamus,  however,  like  the  elephant,  is  of  a 
very  shy  and  secluded  disposition,  and  rapidly  disappears  before  the 
approach  of  civilization.  I  drew  up  my  waggons  on  a  commanding  open 
position  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  stream.  The  margin  of  the  Vaal, 
like  the  Orange  River,  is  richly  clad  with  dense  groves  of  various  ever- 
green trees,  among  which  drooping  willows  predominate,  whose  long 
waving  fringes  dip  gracefully  into  the  limpid  waters  as  they  glide  along 
in  their  seaward  course.  All  along  the  banks  of  both  these  rivers  huge 
trunks  of  trees  are  strewn,  having  been  borne  thither  by  the  mighty 
floods  to  which  they  are  annually  subject.  A  short  distance  above  my 
position  was  a  beautiful  island,  adorned  with  trees  of  the  richest  verdure. 

About  three  P.M.  I  rode  north-east  to  look  for  roan  antelopes,  which, 
next  to  the  eland,  are  the  largest  in  the  world  ;  and  being  incapable  of 
great  speed,  may  at  times  be  ridden  into  with  a  good  horse.  I  was  ac- 
companied by  Cobus  and  Jacob.  We  found  the  country  covered  with 
bushes,  of  which  the  majority  were  of  a  most  impracticable  description, 
reminding  me  of  a  kill-devil,  an  implement  used  in  angling,  they  being 
covered  with  thorns  on  the  fish-hook  principle.    This  variety  of  mimosa 


80   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

is  waggishly  termed  by  the  Boers  "  vyacht  urn  bige,"  or  wait-a-bit 
thorns,  as  they  continually  solicit  the  passing  traveller  not  to  be  in  a 
hurry  ;  if  he  disregards  which  request,  the  probability  is  that  he  leaves 
a  part  of  his  shirt  or  trousers  in  their  possession.  Here  and  there  were 
hills  covered  with  sharp  adamantine  rocks,  throughout  which,  however, 
there  was  abundance  of  excellent  grass  and  fine  green  bushes.  In  short, 
it  was  just  the  country  to  suit  the  taste  of  the  rock-loving  koodoos. 
Having  proceeded  some  miles,  we  discovered  fresh  spoor  of  a  troop  of 
them  at  the  foot  of  one  of  the  ranges  of  rocky  hills.  We  then  crossed 
the  ridge,  still  finding  spoor,  and  the  country  becoming  more  and  more 
likely. 

Suddenly,  on  raising  our  eyes,  we  saw  standing  on  the  hill  side,  with- 
in three  hundred  yards  of  us,  five  buck  koodoos,  four  of  which  were 
tearing  old  fellows  carrying  extremely  fine  horns ;  and  majestic  as  they 
were,  the  elevated  position  which  they  occupied  imparted  to  them  a  still 
more  striking  appearance.  We  galloped  towards  them,  on  which  they 
bounded  higher  up  the  rocky  hill,  and  stood  for  a  few  seconds  looking 
at  us. 

I  had  seen  many  sights  thrilling  to  a  sportsman,  but  few  to  surpass  what 
I  then  beheld.  I  think  an  old  buck  koodoo,  when  seen  standing  broad- 
side on,  is  decidedly  one  of  the  grandest-looking  antelopes  in  the  world. 
They  now  broke  into  two  lots,  the  two  finest  bucks  holding  to  the  left, 
and  to  these  we  gave  chase.  They  led  us  over  the  most  terrific  ground 
for  horses  that  can  be  imagined.  It  consisted  of  a  mass  of  large  sharp 
adamantine  pieces  of  rock ;  even  the  rock-frequenting  koodoos  them- 
selves made  bad  weather  of  it.  Cobus,  on  this  occasion,  rode  in  a  manner 
which  astonished  me.  He  was  mounted  on  "  The  Cow,"  which  steed, 
having  in  its  youth  led  an  unrestrained  life,  as  most  Cape  horses  do,  in 
the  rugged  mountains  of  the  Hantam,  bounded  along  the  hill  side  in  a 
style  worthy  of  a  klipspringer.  A  flat  of  considerable  extent,  covered 
with  tall  bushes,  intervened  between  us  and  a  long  range  of  high  table- 
land to  the  northward,  along  the  base  of  which,  for  an  extent  of  many 
miles,  stretched  a  dense  forest  of  wait-a-bit  thorns  and  mimosas. 

This  forest  was  the  head-quarters  of  the  koodoos,  and  for  it  they  now 
held,  breaking  away  across  the  above-mentioned  flat.  That  forest,  how- 
ever, the  finest  koodoo  was  destined  never  to  reach.  As  soon  as  we  got 
clear  of  the  rocky  ground  our  horses  gained  upon  them  at  every  stride ; 
and  Cobus,  who  was  invariably  far  before  me  in  every  chase,  was  soon 
alongside  of  the  finest.  Here,  in  the  dense  bushes,  we  lost  sight  of  his 
comrade.  Cobus  very  soon  prevailed  on  the  koodoo  to  alter  his  tack, 
and  strike  off  at  a  tangent  from  his  former  course  ;  when,  by  taking  a 
short  cut  like  a  greyhound  running  cunning,  I  got  within  range,  and 
with  a  single  ball  I  rolled  him  over  in  the  dust.  I  felt  more  pleasure  in 
obtaining  this  fine  specimen  of  a  buck  koodoo  than  anything  I  had  yet 
shot  in  Africa.  He  was  a  first-rate  old  buck,  and  carried  a  pair  of 
ponderous,  long,  wide-set  spiral  horns. 

Owing  to  the  nature  of  the  ground  which  they  frequent,  it  is  a  very 
difficult  matter  to  ride  them  down,  and  they  are  more  usually  obtained 
by  stalking  or  stealing  stealthily  upon  them.  When,  however,  the 
hunter  discovers  a  heavy  old  buck  koodoo  on  level  ground,  there  is  no 


AN    OLD    COCK   BUSTAKD.  81 

great  difficulty  to  ride  into  him,  his  speed  and  endurance  being  very- 
inferior  .to  that  of  the  oryx.  I  could  have  stood  contemplating  him  for 
hours,  but  darkness  was  fast  setting  in;  so,  having  off-saddled  and  knee- 
haltered  our  horses,  we  carefully  removed  the  head  and  commenced 
skinning  him.  The  skin  of  the  koodoo,  though  thin,  is  extremely  tough, 
and  is  much  prized  by  the  colonists  for  "  foreslocks,"  or  lashes  for  ox- 
waggon  whips.  The  koodoo-skin  was  my  mattress,  my  saddle  was  my 
pillow;  and  supperless  I  lay  down  to  rest,  without  any  covering  save  an 
old  shirt  and  a  pair  of  leather  crackers.  The  excitement  of  the  thrilling 
sport  which  I  had  enjoyed  prevented  my  sleeping  until  a  late  hour ;  and 
when  "at  length  I  closed  my  eyes,  I  dreamt  that  we  were  surrounded  by 
a  troop  of  lions,  and,  awaking  with  a  loud  cry,  startled  my  men  and 
horses. 

On  the  26th  we  arose  at  earliest  dawn,  and  having  packed  the 
trophies  of  the  koodoo,  and  a  part  of  his  flesh,  upon  my  spare  horse,  I 
despatched  Jacob  with  him  to  camp,  while  Cobus  and  I  held  north-east 
to  seek  for  roan  antelope.  I  sought  that  day  and  the  two  following  for 
these  antelopes,  but  saw  no  traces  of  them. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th  I  inspanned,  and  trekked  some  miles 
farther  up  the  northern  bank  of  the  Vaal,  and  encamped  opposite  where 
the  Eiet  or  Eeed  River  joins  it.  The  stream  here  is  extremely  beautiful, 
being  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  breadth,  with  sloping  banks 
richly  adorned  with  shady  evergreen  groves,  and  fringed  with  lofty 
reeds — a  never-failing  prognosticator  of  a  sleepless  night,  a  virulent 
species  of  mosquito  being  always  abundant  where  reeds  are  met  with. 
Several  large  bustards  were  stalking  on  a  small  bushy  flat,  as  we  drew 
up  the  waggons.  I  went  after  these,  and  made  a  fine  off-hand  shot  at 
an  old  cock  at  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  Here  I  lost  Cobus  and  Jacob, 
my  two  Hottentot  after-riders.  Returning  from  the  bustards  to  my 
waggons,  where  I  expected  to  find  my  breakfast  waiting  me,  I  dis- 
covered these  two  worthies,  whose  duty  it  was  to  be  preparing  it, 
quietly  reclining  under  the  shade  of  a  mimosa,  and  enjoying  the  sooth- 
ing influence  of  their  short  clay  pipes. 

Being  now  beyond  the  pale  of  magisterial  law,  I  deemed  that  a  little 
wholesome  correction  might  prove  beneficial,  which  I  accordingly  ad- 
ministered. This  so  disgusted  these  high-minded  youths,  that  after 
breakfast  they  embraced  the  opportunity  of  my  bathing  to  abscond  from 
my  service.  I  imagined  that  they  had  sneaked  into  the  bushes,  and 
would  soon  return.  I,  however,  saw  no  more  of  them  until  several 
months  after,  when  I  met  them  at  Colesberg,  which  place  they  had 
reached,  assisted  by  the  Bastards,  through  whose  country  they  had 
passed.  Cobus,  though  a  first-rate  after-rider,  was  a  great  scamp  and 
mischief-maker;  and  I  learned  from  my  remaining  people  that  it  was  by 
his  persuasion  Jacob  had  left  me. 

In  the  forenoon,  the  sun  being  extremely  powerful,  I  built  for  myself 
a  bower  under  an  old  willow  beside  the  river.  In  this  bower  I  made  my 
bed,  and  might  have  had  a  sound  sleep  by  way  of  a  change,  had  not  the 
mosquitos  and  midges  assaulted  me  throughout  the  whole  night,  so  that 
I  hardly  closed  my  eyes.  The  31st  was  a  charming  cool  day,  the  sky 
beautifully  overcast.    Having  enjoyed  a  good  swim  in  the  waters  of  the 


82  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

Vaal,  I  breakfasted,  after  which  I  saddled  up,  and  rode  north  to  seek 
for  roan  antelope.  I  was  accompanied  by  Carollus,  the  native  of  Mozam- 
bique, who  was  much  too  heavy  to  act  as  after  rider,  and  by  the  little 
Bushboy  named  Ruyter,  who  had  joined  me  on  the  plains  of  the  karoo. 
This  Bushboy,  although  he  had  learnt  to  ride  among  the  Boers,  had  an 
indifferent  seat  on  horseback,  and  would  never  push  his  horse  to  over- 
take any  antelope  if  the  ground  were  at  all  rough. 

Having  -explored  the  country  to  a  considerable  distance,  in  the  course 
of  which  we  fell  in  with  four  sassaybys  and  a  troop  of  hartebeests,  I  re- 
solved to  make  for  home,  as  the  darkening  sky  and  distant  thunder  to 
the  southward  threatened  a  heavy  storm.  I  had  not  long,  however,  de- 
termined on  returning,  when  the  wind,  which  had  been  out  of  the  north, 
suddenly  veered  round,  and  blew  hard  from  the  south.  In  less  than 
half  an  hour  the  rain  descended  in  torrents,  the  wind  blew  extremely 
cold,  and  the  rain  beat  right  in  my  face;  the  peals  of  thunder  were  most 
appalling,  the  most  fearful  I  think  I  had  ever  heard,  the  forked  lightning 
dancing  above  and  around  me  with  such  vividness  as  to  pain  my  eyes :  I 
thought  every  moment  would  be  my  last.  I  shifted  my  saddle  from 
"Sunday"  to  "The  Cow,"  and  we  pricked  along  at  a  smart  pace. 

We  were  entering  a  thicket  of  thorny  bushes,  when  a  very  large  grey- 
looking  antelope  stood  up  under  one  of  them.  I  could  not  see  his  head, 
but  I  at  once  knew  that  it  was  the  long-sought-for  roan  antelope,  or  bas- 
tard gemsbok.  Carollus  quickly  handed  me  my  little  Moore  rifle,  secure 
from  the  pelting  storm  in  one  of  Mr.  Hugh  Snowie's  patent  waterproof 
covers.  The  noble  buck  now  bounded  forth,  a  superb  old  male,  carry- 
ing a  pair  of  grand  scymitar-shaped  horns.  He  stood  nearly  five  feet 
high  at  the  shoulder.  "The  Cow  "  knew  well  what  he  had  to  do,  and 
set  off  after  him  with  right  good  will  over  a  most  impracticable  country. 
It  was  a  succession  of  masses  of  adamantine  rock  and  stone,  and  dense 
bushes  with  thorns  on  the  boat-hook  principle.  In  a  few  minutes  my 
legs  below  the  knee  were  a  mass  of  blood,  and  my  shirt,  my  only  cover- 
ing, was  flying  in  streamers  from  my  waist.  The  old  buck  at  first  got  a 
little  ahead,  but  presently,  the  ground  improving,  I  gained  upon  him, 
and  after  a  sharp  burst  of  about  two  miles  we  commenced  ascending  a 
slight  acclivity,  when  he  suddenly  faced  about  and  stood  at  bay,  eyeing 
me  with  glowing  eyes  and  a  look  of  defiance. 

This  was  to  me  a  joyful  moment.  The  buck  I  had  for  many  years 
heard  of  and  longed  to  meet  now  stood  at  bay  within  forty  yards  of  me. 
I  dismounted,  and,  drawing  my  rifle  from  its  holster,  sent  a  bullet 
through  his  shoulder,  upon  which  he  cantered  a  short  distance  and  lay 
down  beside  a  bush.  On  my  approach  he  endeavoured  to  charge,  but 
his  strength  failed  him.  I  then  gave  him  a  second  shot  in  the  neck,  just 
where  I  always  cut  off  the  head.  On  receiving  it  he  rolled  over,  and, 
stretching  his  limbs,  closed  his  eyes  upon  the  storm,  which  all  this  time 
raged  with  increasing  severity. 

I  felt  extremely  cold.  I  had  lost  my  shirt  in  the  chase,  and  all  that 
was  left  me  was  my  shoes  and  leather  knee-breeches.  I  nevertheless 
took  some  time  to  inspect  the  beautiful  and  rare  antelope  which  I  had 
been  fortunate  enough  to  capture.  He  proved  to  be  a  first-rate  speci- 
men :  his  horns  were  extremely  rough  and  finely  knotted.     I  now  pro- 


A  TROOP  OF  OSTRICHES.  83 


ceeded  to  cut  off  his  head  and  "  gralloched  "  him,  all  of  which  I  accom- 
plished before  my  followers  came  up.  They  stumbled  on  me  by  chance, 
having  lost  sight  of  me  in  the  denseness  of  the  storm.  Having  shifted 
my  saddle  from  "The  Cow  "to  "  Colesberg,"  I  ordered  them  to  follow, 
and  I  rode  hard  for  camp,  which  was  distant  many  miles.  At  sunset 
the  storm  ceased,  and  my  boys  arrived  with  the  head.  The  following 
day  was  the  1st  of  February.  In  the  morning  I  despatched  two  men 
to  bring  home  the  skin  of  the  roan  antelope  and  a  supply  of  the  veni- 
son, which  was  in  high  condition.  Strange  to  say,  they  found  the  buck 
all  safe,  having  escaped  the  attacks  both  of  hyaenas  and  vultures. 

My  meal-bag  was  reported  almost  empty ;  and  this  being  a  dangerous 
country  for  the  horse-sickness,  a  distemper  which  rages  during  Febru- 
ary, March,  and  April,  I  resolved  to  recross  the  Vaal  River  and  bend 
my  course  for  the  land  of  blesboks,  a  large  and  beautiful  violet-coloured 
antelope,  which  is  found,  together  with  black  wildebeests  and  spring- 
boks, in  countless  thousands  on  the  vast  green  plains  of  short  sour  grass 
situated  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the  eastward  of  my  then 
position.  My  purpose  was  to  amuse  myself  hunting  in  these  parts  until 
the  beginning  of  April,  when  the  most  dangerous  period  of  the  horse- 
sickness  would  be  past ;  and  after  that  to  revisit  Colesberg,  where  I  in- 
tended to  store  the  specimens  of  natural  history  which  I  had  already  ac- 
cumulated, and,  having  refitted  and  laid  in  a  store  of  supplies,  to  start 
for  the  remote  districts  of  the  far  interior  in  quest  of  elephant,  rhino- 
ceros, giraffe,  buffalo,  eland,  and  other  varieties  of  large  and  interesting 
game  to  be  found  in  those  secluded  regions. 

Before  removing  from  my  present  encampment  I  had  another  hard 
day  among  the  sharp  rocks  and  wait-a-bit  thorns  to  the  northward  of 
the  Vaal,  when  I  fell  in  with  a  troop  of  about  twelve  young  ostriches, 
which  were  not  much  larger  than  guinea-fowls.  I  was  amused  to  see 
the  mother  endeavour  to  lead  us  away  exactly  like  a  wild  duck,  spread- 
ing out  and  drooping  her  wings,  and  throwing  herself  down  on  the 
ground  before  us  as  if  wounded,  while  the  cock  bird  cunningly  led  the 
brood  away  in  an  opposite  direction. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  3rd  of  February  we  inspanned,  and  retraced 
our  steps  to  the  drift,  which  we  reached  in  the  dark :  I  however  crossed 
the  river  and  encamped  on  the  opposite  bank.  On  the  following  day  I 
marched  to  a  small  kraal  of  Griquas,  in  hope  of  obtaining  some  corn. 
Our  march  was  a  heavy  one,  through  a  sandy  country  adorned  in  parts 
with  very  ancient-looking,  picturesque  trees  of  the  "  cameel-dorn " 
species.  From  the  site  of  these  kraals  I  obtained  a  distant  view  of  both 
the  Vaal  and  Orange  River.  I  found  these  Griquas  very  importunate, 
flocking  round  my  waggons  and  begging  for  tea,  coffee,  tobacco,  gun- 
powder, etc.  Some  of  these  ruffians  formed  a  plot  to  make  me  give  up 
the  Bushboy  who  had  entered  my  service,  but,  on  my  threatening  them 
with  the  vengeance  of  the  Government  if  they  interfered  with  any  men 
in  my  service,  they  relinquished  the  idea.  On  the  morrow  it  was  ascer- 
tained that  the  oxen,  having  missed  the  fountain,  had  wandered  very 
far  in  search  of  water  :  they  were  recovered  more  than  half  way  back 
to  the  Vaal  River.  I  purchased  eight  "  emirs  "  or  measures  of  wheat 
from  one  of  the  Griquas,  and  also  a  couple  of  goats  for  slaughter.      In 


84  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

the  afternoon  we  inspanned,  and  trekked  to  "  Stink  Vonteyn,"  already 
mentioned.  On  the  march  I  shot  a  large  hawk,  a  species  of  buzzard, 
with  ball,  and  also  a  steinbok,  at  a  hundred  and  sixty  yards. 

On  the  following  morning  the  Namaqua  partridges,  which  every 
morning  and  evening  visit  the  vleys  and  fountains  in  large  coveys  for 
the  purpose  of  drinking,  mustered  in  great  force  at  "Stink  Vonteyn." 
Of  these  birds  I  have  met  with  three  varieties.  They  are  abundant 
wherever  extensive  open  sandy  districts  occur,  as  far  as  I  have  pene- 
trated into  Southern  Africa.  By  watching  the  flight  of  these  birds  in 
the  mornings  and  evenings  I  have  discovered  the  fountains  in  the  desert, 
when  unassisted  and  forsaken  by  the  natives.  As  they  fly  they  re- 
peatedly utter  a  soft  melodious  cry,  resembling  the  words  "  pretty, 
pretty  dear."  They  are  excellent  eating,  and  a  person  so  disposed,  by 
mounting  a  pair  of  shot-barrels,  might,  any  morning  or  evening,  secure 
a  large  bag  of  them. 

In  the  forenoon  I  observed  the  base  of  an  extensive  range  of  hills  to 
the  northward  concealed  for  miles,  as  if  by  thick  clouds  or  mist,  which 
steadily  advanced  towards  us,  holding  a  southerly  course.  This  was  a 
flight  of  countless  myriads  of  locusts,  in  my  opinion  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable phenomena  that  a  traveller  can  behold.  They  resembled  very 
much  a  fall  of  snow,  when  it  gently  descends  in  large  light  flakes.  The 
sound  caused  by  their  wings  reminded  me  of  the  rustling  of  the  summer 
breeze  among  the  trees  of  the  forest.  In  the  afternoon  I  hunted  in  a 
mountain  range  to  the  westward  of  the  saltpan  named  by  the  Boers  and 
Bastards  "  Sautpan's  berg  ;  "  and  in  the  evening  I  visited  the  old  Bush- 
man's hut,  whom  I  found  at  home  with  a  litter  of  very  small  Bush-chil- 
dren :  these  he  signified  to  me  were  his  grand-children.  I  lay  down  to 
sleep  beneath  an  aged  mimosa  in  their  vicinity,  and  about  midnight  the 
wind  set  in  from  off"  the  Southern  Ocean,  and,  having  no  covering  but 
my  shirt,  I  felt  it  piercingly  cold.  Sleep  was  out  of  the  question,  and 
I  was  right  glad  when  I  heard  the  sparrow's  chirp  announcing  the  dawn 
of  day. 

Notwithstanding  these  nocturnal  exposures,  my  health  since  leaving 
my  regiment  had  been  perfect — not  a  twitch  of  rheumatism,  a  complaint 
from  which  I  suffered  while  in  India,  although  I  had  ceased  to  wear 
flannel,  which  I  had  previously  done  for  years  :  I  can  therefore  confi- 
dently recommend  the  country  to  those  that  suffer  from  that  most 
grievous  affliction.  Colds,  coughs,  and  sore  throats  are  of  rare  occur- 
rence ;  and  scientific  persons,  in  whose  opinions  I  can  place  the  utmost 
reliance,  have  informed  me  that  the  frontier  districts  of  the  colony,  and 
still  more  the  remoter  districts  to  the  northward,  are  the  finest  in  the 
world  for  persons  labouring  under  any  pulmonary  complaint.  At  times 
I  felt  very  lonely  when  I  returned  to  camp  for  want  of  some  old  com- 
panion to  welcome  me  and  discuss  with  me  in  the  evenings,  over  my 
gipsy  fire,  the  adventures  and  incidents  of  the  day :  in  general,  however, 
when  the  sport  was  good  I  enjoyed  excellent  spirits. 

On  reaching  my  waggons  I  breakfasted,  after  which  we  inspanned 
and  trekked  east  along  a  very  rarely  trodden  old  waggon-track,  making 
for  a  small  fountain  situated  on  the  borders  of  a  large  pan,  which  lay  in 
a  broad  hollow  in  the  centre  of  an  extensive  open  tract  of  undulating 


"A  FLIGHT  OF    LOCUSTS.  85 

country.  Here  the  entire  country  was  of  a  soft  sandy  character,  and 
utterly  uninhabited;  the  plains  were  covered  with  long  rough  heath  and 
other  low  scrubby  bushes,  intermingled  with  much  sweet  grass.  Kanges 
of  hills  of  goodly  height  and  considerable  extent  intersected  the  plains, 
and  bounded  the  view  at  various  distances  on  every  side.  Ancient 
forests  of  picturesque  and  venerable  mimosas,  interspersed  with  high 
grey-leaved  bushes,  detached  and  in  groups,  stretched  along  the  bases  of 
these  mountain-ranges,  their  breadth  extending  about  a  mile  into  the 
surrounding  extensive  campaign  country.  We  reached  the  small  foun- 
tain in  the  dark,  our  road  leading  through  the  saltpan,  where  we  halted 
for  an  hour,  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  salt,  with  which  we  had  little 
difficulty  in  filling  two  large  sacks. 

-On  the  march,  as  we  crossed  a  vast  plain,  a  flight  of  locusts  passed 
over  our  heads  during  upwards  of  half  an  hour,  flying  so  thick  as  to 
darken  the  sun ;  they  reached  in  dense  clouds  as  far  as  we  could  see, 
and  maintained  an  elevation  of  from  six  to  three  or  four  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  plain.  Woe  to  the  vegetation  of  the  country  on 
which  they  alight !  In  the  afternoon  two  mounted  Boers  were  observed 
leading  a  spare  horse,  and  following  on  our  track.  While  they  were  yet 
afar  off,  Euyter,  the  little  Bushboy,  recognised  them  as  old  acquain- 
tances, and  pronounced  one  of  them  to  be  the  brother  of  the  master 
from  whom  he  had  absconded.  I  at  once  guessed  the  object  of  their 
visit,  and  was  right  in  my  conjecture.  By  some  clue  they  had  ascer- 
tained that  the  boy  was  in  my  possession,  and  were  now  following  me 
in  the  hope  of  recovering  him. 

Accordingly,  when  they  rode  up  and  requested  me  to  halt  the  wag- 
gons for  a  conference,  I  received  them  very  gruffly,  and  replied,  that, 
the  water  being  distant,  I  had  no  time  for  conferences  until  I  should  ar- 
rive there.  Having  repeated  their  request,  and  finding  that  I  paid  them 
no  regard,  they  took  up  a  position  in  the  rear,  and  followed  my  waggons 
to  the  halting-place.  Here  they  began  to  pester  me  with  a  long  yarn 
concerning  their  claims  to  the  Bushboy,  when  I  stopped  their  pratings 
by  ordering  them  to  drop  the  subject,  promising  them  a  hearing  in  the 
morning ;  and  having  directed  my  people  to  place  refreshments  before 
the  Boers,  I  wished  them  good  night,  and  retired. 

On  the  following  morning  they  renewed  their  importunities,  stating 
many  things  which  I  knew  to  be  false  ;  upon  which  I  informed  them 
that  the  nation  to  which  I  belonged  was  averse  to  slavery,  and  that  I 
could  not  think  of  acceding  to  their  demand.  They  then  saddled  up, 
and  departed  as  wise  as  they  had  come,  telling  me  that  the  matter 
should  not  rest  there.  The  little  Bushman  seemed  highly  amused  with 
the  whole  proceeding ;  and  as  the  Boers  mounted  their  steeds  and  rode 
away,  leading  the  spare  horse,  he  shrieked  with  delight,  exclaiming  in 
Low  Dutch — 

"  Yah,  yilla  forfluxta  Boera,  yilla  had  de  chadachta  me  te  chra,  mar 
ik  heb  noo  a  ghroote  baas,  dat  sail  yilla  neuk  ; "  signifying  "  Yes,  you 
worthless  Boers,  you  thought  to  get  hold  of  me ;  but  I  have  now  a 
great  master,  who  will  serve  you  out."  The  Boers  having  departed,  and 
my  oxen  and  horses  having  effaced  all  original  traces  around  the  foun- 
tain, I  described  a  circle  a  little  distance  from  it  to  ascertain  if  it  was 


86  HUNTING  AND   SPORTINQ  ADVENTURES. 


much  frequented.  This  is  the  manner  in  which  spoor  should  at  all  times 
be  sought  for.  I  found  a  tolerable  abundance  of  the  spoor  of  various 
wild  animals,  and  I  therefore  resolved  to  remain  here  some  days  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting.  I  removed  my  waggons  to  an  adjacent  hollow, 
where  I  drew  them  up  entirely  concealed  from  view,  and  then  con- 
structed a  shooting-hole  beside  the  fountain,  where  for  several  mornings, 
at  early  dawn,  I  shot  hartebeests  as  they  came  to  drink. 

On  the  morning  of  the  12th  I  rode  north-east  with  attendants,  and 
after  proceeding  several  miles  through  an  open  country,  we  entered  a 
beautiful  forest  of  cameeldorn  trees,  and  rode  along  beneath  a  range  of 
steep  rocky  hills.  The  country  gave  me  the  idea  of  extreme  antiquity, 
where  the  hand  of  man  had  wrought  no  change  since  the  Creation.  In 
a  finely-wooded  broad  valley  or  opening  among  the  hills  we  fell  in  with  a 
magnificent  herd  of  about  sixty  blue  wildebeests.  As  they  cantered  across  the 
grassy  sward,  tossing  their  fierce-looking,  ponderous  heads,  their  shaggy 
manes  and  long,  black,  bushy  tails  streaming  in  the  breeze,  they  pre- 
sented an  appearance  at  once  striking  and  imposing  ;  and  to  a  stranger 
they  conveyed  rather  the  idea  of  buffaloes  than  anything  belonging  to 
the  antelope  tribe,  to  which,  indeed,  wildebeests,  both  black  and  white, 
are  but  remotely  allied,  notwithstanding  the  classification  of  naturalists. 
Returning  to  camp  with  the  trophies  of  a  hartebeest,  of  which  antelope 
I  discovered  several  fine  troops,  I  started  a  strand  wolfe,  or  fuscous 
hyaena,  which  I  rode  into  and  slew. 

About  midnight  on  the  1 6th,  weary  with  tossing  on  my  restless  couch, 
I  arose,  and  taking  my  two-grooved  rifle,  a  pillow,  and  a  blanket,  I  held 
for  my  shooting-hole  beside  the  fountain.  The  remainder  of  the  night 
was  very  cool,  with  a  southerly  breeze.  At  dawn  I  looked  from  my 
hole,  and  seeing  no  game  approaching,  I  rolled  my  blanket  tight  around 
me  and  tried  to  sleep.  In  this  manner  I  had  lain  for  about  half  an  hour, 
when  I  was  suddenly  startled  by  a  large  heavy  animal  galloping  past 
within  six  feet  of  me.  I  at  once  knew  that  it  must  be  either  some  beast 
which  had  been  coming  to  drink  and  had  got  my  wind,  or  one  hunted, 
which,  according  to  the  custom  of  deer  and  the  larger  antelopes,  had 
rushed  for  refuge  to  the  water  in  its  distress.  In  the  latter  conjecture 
I  was  right ;  for,  on  cautiously  peeping  through  the  stones  which  sur- 
rounded my  hole,  I  had  the  pleasure  to  behold  a  fine  bull  brindled  gnoo 
dash  into  the  waters  of  the  fountain  within  forty  yards  of  me,  and  stand 
at  bay,  followed  by  four  tearing,  fierce-looking  wild  dogs.  All  the  four 
had  their  heads  and  shoulders  covered  with  blood,  and  looked  savage  in 
the  extreme.  They  seemed  quite  confident  of  success,  and  came  leisurely 
up  to  the  bull,  passing  within  a  few  yards  of  me,  their  eyes  glistening 
with  ferocious  glee. 

My  anxiety  to  possess  this  fine  old  bull,  and  also  a  specimen  of  the 
wild  dog,  prevented  my  waiting  to  see  more  of  the  fun.  I  deliberated 
for  a  few  seconds  whether  I  would  shoot  the  bull  first  or  one  of  the 
hounds,  and  ended  by  shooting  the  gnoo  and  the  largest  hound  right 
and  left.  The  bull,  on  receiving  the  ball,  bounded  out  of  the  fountain ; 
but  suddenly  wheeling  about,  he  re-entered  it,  and,  staggering  violently 
for  a  moment,  subsided  in  its  waters.  The  hound  got  the  bullet 
through  his  heart,  and,  springing  forward  from  his  comrades,  instantly 


THE    WILD    DOGS.  87 

measured  his  length  upon  the  gravel.  I  then  quickly  reloaded  my 
rifle,  lying  on  my  side — a  proceeding  which,  I  may  inform  those  who 
have  not  yet  tried  it,  is  rather  difficult  to  accomplish.  Whilst  I  was 
thus  occupied  the  three  remaining  hounds  reluctantly  withdrew,  and 
described  a  semicircle  to  leeward  of  me  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  my 
wind  and  more  correctly  ascertaining  the  cause  of  their  discomfiture. 
Having  loaded,  I  re-opened  my  fire,  and  wounded  another,  when  they 
all  made  off. 

I  could  not  help  feeling  very  reluctant  to  fire  at  the  jolly  hounds. 
The  whole  affair  reminded  me  so  very  forcibly  of  many  gallant  courses 
I  had  enjoyed  in  the  Scottish  deer  forests  with  my  own  noble  deer- 
hounds,  that  I  could  not  divest  myself  of  the  idea  that  those  now  before 
me  deserved  a  better  recompense  for  the  masterly  manner  in  which  they 
were  pursuing  their  desperate  game.  One  hound  in  particular  bore  a 
strong  expression  of  dear  old  Factor  in  his  face,  a  trusty  stag-hound 
bred  by  myself,  whose  deeds,  though  not  renowned  in  verse  like  Ossian's 
Oscar  and  Luath,  were  perhaps  little  inferior  either  in  speed  or  prowess 
to  those  famed  in  ancient  song. 

The  wild  dogs,  or  "  wilde  honden,"  as  they  are  termed  by  the  Dutch 
Boers,  are  still  abundant  in  the  precincts  of  the  Cape  colony,  and  are 
met  with  in  great  numbers  throughout  the  interior.  These  animals 
invariably  hunt  together  in  large  organized  packs,  varying  in  number 
from  ten  to  sixty,  and  by  their  extraordinary  powers  of  endurance,  and 
mode  of  mutual  assistance,  they  are  enabled  to  run  into  the  swiftest,  or 
overcome  the  largest  and  most  powerful  antelope.  I  have  never  heard 
of  their  attacking  the  buffalo,  and  I  believe  that  the  animal  pursued  in 
the  present  instance  is  the  largest  to  which  they  give  battle.  Their 
pace  is  a  long  never-tiring  gallop,  and  in  the  chase  they  relieve  one 
another,  the  leading  hounds  falling  to  the  rear  when  fatigued,  when 
others,  who  have  been  husbanding  their  strength,  come  up  and  relieve 
them.  Having  succeeded  in  bringing  their  quarry  to  bay,  they  all 
surround  him,  and  he  is  immediately  dragged  to  the  ground,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  torn  to  pieces  and  consumed. 

They  are  of  a  bold  and  daring  disposition,  and  do  not  entertain  much 
fear  of  man,  evincing  less  concern  on  his  approach  than  any  other  carni- 
vorous animal  with  which  I  am  acquainted.  On  disturbing  a  pack,  they 
trot  leisurely  along  before  the  intruder,  repeatedly  halting  and  looking 
back  at  him.  The  females  bring  forth  their  young  in  large  holes,  in 
desolate  open  plains.  These  burrows  are  connected  with  one  another 
underground.  When  a  troop  of  wild  dogs  frequenting  these  holes 
observe  a  man  approaching,  they  do  not,  as  might  be  supposed,  take 
shelter  in  the  holes,  but,  rather  trusting  to  their  speed,  they  rush  forth, 
even  though  the  intruder  should  be  close  upon  them,  and  retreat  across 
the  plain,  the  young  ones,  unless  very  weak,  accompanying  them.  The 
devastation  occasioned  by  them  among  the  flocks  of  the  pastoral  Dutch 
Boers  is  inconceivable.  It  constantly  happens  that  when  the  careless 
shepherds  leave  their  charge,  in  quest  of  honey  or  other  amusement,  a 
pack  of  these  marauders  comes  across  the  defenceless  flock.  A 
sanguinary  massacre  in  such  cases  invariably  ensues,  and  incredible 
numbers  of  sheep  are  killed  and  wounded.      The  voracious  pack,  not 


88    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

contented  with  killing  as  many  as  they  can  eat,  follow  resolutely  on, 
tearing  and  mangling  all  that  come  within  their  reach. 

Their  voice  consists  of  three  different  kinds  of  cry,  each  being  used 
on  special  occasions.  One  of  these  cries  is  a  sharp  angry  bark,  usually 
uttered  when  they  suddenly  behold  an  object  which  they  cannot  make 
out.  Another  resembles  a  number  of  monkeys  chattering  together,  or 
men  conversing  while  their  teeth  are  chattering  violently  from  cold. 
This  cry  is  emitted  at  night  when  large  numbers  of  them  are  together, 
and  they  are  excited  by  any  particular  occurrence,  such  as  being 
barked  at  by  domestic  dogs.  The  third  cry,  and  the  one  most 
commonly  uttered  by  them,  is  a  sort  of  rallying  note  to  bring  the 
various  members  of  the  pack  together  when  they  have  been  scattered  in 
following  several  individuals  of  a  troop  of  antelopes.  It  is  a  peculiarly 
soft  melodious  cry,  yet,  nevertheless,  it  may  be  distinguished  at  a  great 
distance.  It  very  much  resembles  the  second  note  uttered  by  the  cuc- 
koo which  visits  our  islands  during  the  summer  months,  and,  when 
heard  in  a  calm  morning  echoing  through  the  distant  woodlands,  it  has 
a  very  pleasing  effect.  -They  treat  all  domestic  dogs,  however  large 
and  fierce,  with  the  utmost  scorn,  waiting  to  receive  their  attack,  and 
then,  clanishly  assisting  one  another,  they  generally  rend  them  in 
pieces.  The  domestic  dogs  most  cordially  reciprocate  their  animosity, 
and  abhor  their  very  voices,  at  what  distance  soever  heard,  even  more 
than  that  of  the  lion,  starting  to  their  feet,  and  angrily  barking  for 
hours.  This  interesting  though  destructive  animal  seems  to  form  the 
connecting  link  between  the  wolf  and  the  hyaena. 
But  to  return  to  the  bull.  Having  summoned  my  men,  and  with  con- 
siderable difficulty  dragged  the  ponderous  carcase  of  the  old  bull  out  of 
the  water,  we  found  that  he  had  been  cruelly  lacerated  by  the  hounds. 
It  appeared  to  me  that  they  had  endeavoured  to  hamstring  him.  His 
hind  legs,  haunches,  and  belly  were  dreadfully  torn  ;  he  had  lost  half  his 
tail,  and  was  otherwise  mutilated.  Poor  old  bull !  I  could  not  help 
commiserating  his  fate.  It  is  melancholy  to  reflect  that,  in  accordance 
with  the  laws  of  nature,  such  scenes  of  pain  must  ever  be  occurring ;  one 
species,  whether  inhabiting  earth,  air,  or  ocean,  being  produced  to 
become  the  prey  of  another.  At  night  I  watched  the  water,  with  fairish 
moonlight,  and  shot  a  large  spotted  hyaena. 

I  continued  here  hunting  hartebeests  until  the  21st,  when  I  inspanned 
at  an  early  hour  and  trekked  due  east  till  sundown,  when  I  halted  near 
a  small  fountain  of  fine  water,  having  performed  a  march  of  about 
twenty-five  miles.  Our  road  lay  through  a  wild  uninhabited  country, 
producing  sweet  grass  in  abundance,  but  destitute  of  water.  On  the 
morning  of  the  22nd,  having  breakfasted,  I  rode  south-west,  with  after- 
riders,  and  found  the  game  abundant,  but  wild  and  shy,  having  been 
recently  hunted  by  Boers. 


NOMAD    BOERS.  89 


CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Riet  River — Nomad  Boer  Encampments — Surly  Reception  at  a  Boer's  Farm — 
Lions  slain  by  the  Boers — Cowardice  of  the  Boers  in  Lion-hunting — Rumours 
of  War  between  the  Boers  and  Griquas — The  Mirage  of  the  Plains — Habits  of 
the  Blesbok — a  knowing  old  Hog — A  Snake  under  my  Pillow — A  Troop  of 
Wild  Dogs  come  upon  me  at  night  in  my  Shooting-hole — The  Roar  of  Lions — 
Curious  Facts  concerning  them. 

We  inspanned  before  the  dawn  of  day  on  the  23rd  of  February,  and 
after  steering  east  and  by  north  for  a  distance  of  about  twelve  miles  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Eiet  river,  where  we  out- 
spanned.  Along  the  banks,  both  above  and  below  me,  several  families 
of  the  nomad  Boers  were  encamped  with  their  tents  and  waggons. 
Their  overgrown  flocks  and  herds  were  grazing  on  the  plains  and 
grassy  hill-sides  around.  Five  of  these  Boers  presently  came  up  to  my 
waggons,  and  drank  coffee  with  me.  They  seemed  much  amused  with 
the  details  of  my  sporting  adventures,  which  I  was  now  able  to  give 
them  in  broken  Dutch,  in  which  language,  from  lately  hearing  no  other 
spoken,  I  was  daily  becoming  more  proficient.  On  learning  that  I  had 
not  as  yet  enjoyed  any  blesbok  shooting,  they  said  they  were  certain  I 
should  be  delighted  with  the  sport. 

The  borders  of  the  country  inhabited  by  the  blesboks  they  stated  to 
be  about  four  days  distant  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  and  that  on 
reaching  it  I  should  fall  in  with  those  antelopes  in  countless  herds,  along 
with  black  wildebeest,  springbok,  and  other  game.  The  Boers  supplied 
me  liberally  with  milk.  In  the  height  of  the  day  we  all  bathed  in  the 
Eiet  river,  and  in  the  afternoon  I  continued  my  journey  eastward.  The 
breadth  of  the  Eiet  river  here  is  about  thirty  yards.  It  rises  about  one 
hundred  miles  to  the  eastward,  and,  flowing  westerly,  joins  the  Vaal 
river  opposite  Campbell's  dorp. 

On  the  third  day  after  making  the  Eiet  river  we  crossed  below  a  very 
picturesque  waterfall,  and  resumed  our  march  along  its  northern  bank. 
The  day  was  cool  and  pleasant,  the  sky  overcast ;  the  hot  days  of 
summer  were  now  past,  and  the  weather  was  most  enjoyable.  Continu- 
ing my  march  in  the  afternoon,  I  left  the  Eiet  river  on  my  right,  and 
held  on  through  an  open  sandy  country  richly  covered  with  abundance 
of  sweet  grass,  and  intersected  by  mountain  ranges  of  very  considerable 
extent.  At  sunset  I  encamped  beside  a  Boer's  farm,  who  received  me 
hospitably,  and  asked  me  to  dine  with  him. 

During  dinner,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  Boers,  he  pestered  me 
with  a  thousand  questions,  such  as,  What  was  my  nation  ?  Where  was 
I  from  1  Where  was  I  bound  for  1  Why  I  travelled  about  alone  in 
such  a  manner.  Where  was  my  farm  1  Were  my  father  and  mother 
living  ?  How  many  brothers  and  sisters  I  had  ?  Was  I  married  ? 
And  had  I  never  been  married  in  the  whole  course  of  my  life  ?  On  my 
replying  in  the  negative  to  this  last  question,  the  Boer  seemed  petrified 
with  astonishment,  and  the  family  gazed  at  one  another  in  utter 
amazement. 


90  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

On  the  farm  was  a  fine  specimen  of  the  African  wild  boar,  which  was 
perfectly  tame,  and  took  vegetables  from  the  hands  of  the  children. 
On  the  following  day  I  performed  two  long  marches,  and  again  halted 
on  the  farm  of  a  Boer,  whose  name  was  Potcheter.  I  found  this  man 
particularly  bitter  against  the  Government.  On  my  going  up  to  him 
to  inquire  where  I  should  outspan,  he  was  very  surly,  and  would  scarcely 
deign  to  speak  to  me.  Of  this,  however,  I  took  no  notice,  but  took  the 
liberty  of  informing  him  that  when  I  had  outspanned  I  should  come  up 
to  the  house  and  make  the  acquaintance  of  Mrs.  Potcheter.  As  I 
wheeled  about  and  walked  away  from  him,  I  overheard  him  remark  to 
three  other  gruff-looking  Boers  who  stood  beside  him  that  I  was  "  a 
verdomd  Englishman." 

Notwithstanding  this  cold  reception,  on  returning  to  the  house  I  soon 
managed  to  get  into  their  good  graces,  and  took  dinner  with  them. 
During  dinner  the  conversation  turned  on  politics,  when  a  keen  discus- 
sion arose  concerning  the  present  administration  of  the  Government. 
This  being  at  all  times  a  disagreeable  subject,  I  thought  it  time  to 
change  the  conversation  to  sporting  subjects,  in  which  the  Boers  always 
take  intense  interest.  I  accordingly  mentioned  to  one  of  the  young 
ladies  who  sat  next  to  me  that  I  had  in  my  waggon  a  large  work  con- 
taining engravings  of  all  the  most  interesting  animals  in  the  world  ;  on 
which  she  instantly  expressed  a  strong  desire  to  see  it.  I  then  pro- 
duced my  "Museum  of  Animated  Nature,"  which  never  failed  to 
enchant  the  Boers,  and  to  put  an  end  to  all  political  discussions  ;  shoot- 
ing and  wild  animals  engrossing  the  conversation  during  the  rest  of  the, 
evening. 

These  Boers  informed  me  that  I  should  see  herds  of  blesboks  on  the 
following  day.  They  also  stated  that  lions  frequented  the  bushy  moun- 
tain ranges  which  look  down  upon  the  plains  frequented  by  the  bles- 
boks, and  they  mentioned  that  a  considerable  party  of  Boers  had 
mustered  that  day  upon  a  farm  a  few  miles  in  advance,  to  hunt  a  troop 
of  lions  which  had  killed  some  horses  on  the  preceding  day.  From  the 
conversation  which  I  overheard  among  themselves,  I  learnt  that  a  war 
was  brewing  between  the  emigrant  Boers  on  the  northern  bank  of  the 
Orange  River  and  the  Bastard  and  Griqua  tribes.  The  rumour  of  this 
war  threw  my  followers,  who  also  heard  the  news  from  the  servants  of 
the  Boers,  into  a  state  of  great  alarm.  I  resolved,  however,  that  my 
movements  should  not  be  influenced  by  these  reports. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning  a  young  Boer  rode  up  to 
the  farm,  and  informed  us  that  the  party  who  had  been  lion-hunting  on 
the  preceding  day  had  bagged  two  fine  lions,  a  male  and  female.  As 
the  farm  lay  directly  in  my  line  of  march,  I  mounted  Colesberg,  and, 
directing  my  followers  to  follow  with  the  waggons,  I  rode  hard  for  the 
farm,  to  inspect  the  noble  game.  On  my  way  thither  I  met  a  horse- 
waggon,  drawn  by  eight  horses,  containing  some  of  the  party  who  had 
mustered  for  the  battue.  Arriving  on  the  farm,  I  found  the  lion  and 
lioness  laid  out  on  the  grass  in  front  of  the  house,  and  the  Boer's 
Hottentots  busy  skinning  them.  Both  lions  were  riddled  with  balls, 
and  their  heads  were  shot  all  to  pieces. 

This  is  generally  the  way  in  which  the  Boers  serve  their  lions  after 


THE    HOME    OF    THE    BLESBOK.  91 


they  have  killed  them,  fearing  to  approach,  though  dead,  until  they 
have  expended  a  further  supply  of  ammunition.  A  Hottentot  is  then 
ordered  to  approach  and  throw  a  stone  at  him ;  the  Boers  then  ask  if  he 
is  dead,  and  on  the  Hottentot  replying,  "  Like  so,  baas,"  he  is  ordered 
to  pull  him  by  the  tail  before  the  hunters  will  venture  to  approach. 
My  little  Bushman  informed  me  that  he  had  often  been  out  lion-hunt- 
ing during  his  captivity  with  the  Boers.  On  one  of  these  occasions  a 
Boer,  who  had  dismounted  from  his  horse  to  fire,  was  dashed  to  the 
ground  by  the  lion  before  he  could  regain  his  saddle.  The  brute,  how- 
ever, did  not  injure  him,  but  merely  stood  over  him,  lashing  his  tail, 
and  growling  at  the  rest  of  the  party,  who  had  galloped  to  a  distance  in 
the  utmost  consternation,  and,  instead  of  approaching  within  easy  shot 
of  the  lion,  to  the  rescue  of  their  comrade,  opened  their  fire  upon  him 
from  a  great  distance,  the  consequence  of  which  sportsmanlike  proceed- 
ing was,  that  they  missed  the  lion,  and  shot  their  comrade  dead  on  the 
spot.  The  lion  presently  retreated,  and,  none  daring  to  follow  him,  he 
escaped. 

The  Boer  on  whose  farm  I  had  arrived  was  a  tall,  powerful,  manly- 
looking  fellow.  He  informed  me  that  he  was  a  Dane.  He  was  in  great 
distress  about  two  favourite  dogs  which  the  lions  had  killed  during  the 
attack  on  the  preceding  day.  Three  more  were  badly  wounded,  and 
their  recovery  seemed  doubtful.  He  confirmed  the  reports  of  an  im- 
pending war  between  the  Boers  and  Griquas,  which  I  had  previously 
heard,  and  he  asked  me  if  I  was  not  afraid,  in  times  of  war,  to  remain 
hunting,  with  only  a  few  followers,  in  the  wilderness.  Being  anxious  to 
commence  my  operations  against  the  blesboks,  I  resumed  my  march 
shortly  after  mid-day.  On  taking  leave,  the  Dane  presented  me  with 
some  meal  and  a  couple  of  loaves  of  bread,  a  luxury  to  which  I  had  been 
an  utter  stranger  for  many  months,  and  which,  together  with  vege- 
tables, I  may  further  add  I  hardly  ever  tasted  during  the  five  hunting 
expeditions  which  I  performed  in  Southern  Africa.  Another  short  march 
in  a  north-easterly  direction  brought  me  to  the  western  borders  of  the 
boundless  regions  inhabited  by  the  blesboks.  I  drew  up  my  waggons 
beside  a  vley  of  rain-water,  in  open  country,  the  plains  before  me  being 
adorned  with  herds  of  black  wildebeest,  springbok,  and  blesbok. 

I  had  now  reached  the  borders  of  a  country  differing  entirely  from 
any  I  had  hitherto  seen.  The  sweet  grass,  which  had  heretofore  been  so 
abundant,  became  very  scarce,  being  succeeded  by  short,  crisp,  sour 
pasturage,  which  my  cattle  and  horses  refused  to  eat.  A  supply  of 
forage  for  these,  however,  could  generally  be  obtained  by  driving  them 
to  the  stony  killocks  and  rocky  mountain  ranges  which  at  various  dis- 
tances from  one  another  intersected  the  campaign  country.  The  plains 
were  firm  and  hard,  and  admirably  suited  for  riding ;  they  were 
pastured  short  and  bare  by  the  endless  herds  of  game  which  from  time 
immemorial  had  held  possession  of  these  extensive  domains.  Although 
intersected  occasionally  by  mountain  ranges,  these  plains  often  extend 
to  amazing  distances,  without  any  landmark  to  break  the  monotony  of 
their  boundless  and  ocean -like  expanse.  At  other  times  the  eye  is  re- 
lieved by  one  or  more  abrupt  pyramidal  or  cone-shaped  hills,  which 


-92  HUNTING  AND   SPOUTING  ADVENTURES. 

serve  as  a  landmark  to  the  hunter,  whereby  to  regain  his  encampment 
after  the  excitement  of  the  chase. 

When  the  sun  is  powerful,  which  it  is  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
year,  an  enduring  mirage  dances  on  the  plain  wherever  the  hunter  turns 
his  bewildered  eyes.  This  mirage  restricts  the  range  of  vision  to  a  very 
moderate  distance,  and  is  very  prejudicial  to  correct  rifle-shooting.  The 
effect  produced  by  this  optical  illusion  is  remarkable  :  hills  and  herds  of 
game  often  appear  as  if  suspended  in  mid-air.  Dry  and  sun-baked  vleys, 
or  pans  covered  with  a  crystallized  efflorescence,  constantly  delude  the 
thirsty  traveller  with  the  prospect  of  water;  and  more  than  once  I  have 
ridden  towards  a  couple  of  springboks,  magnified  a  hundred-fold,  which 
I  had  mistaken  for  the  white  tilts  of  my  waggons. 

This  vast  tract  of  bare,  sour  pasturage,  which  is  peculiarly  the  inherit- 
ance of  the  black  wildebeest,  the  springbok,  and  the  blesbok,  but  more 
particularly  of  the  latter,  occupies  a  central  position,  as  it  were,  in 
Southern  Africa.  On  the  west  of  my  present  encampment,  as  far  as  the 
shores  of  the  South  Atlantic  Ocean,  no  blesboks  are  to  be  found. 
Neither  do  they  extend  to  the  northward  of  the  latitude  of  the  river 
Molopo,  in  25°  30',  of  which  I  shall  at  a  future  period  make  mention, 
although  their  herds  frequent  the  plains  along  its  southern  bank.  To 
the  south  a  few  small  herds  are  still  to  be  found  within  the  colony,  but 
their  head-quarters  is  to  the  northward  of  the  Orange  River  ;  whence 
they  extend  in  an  easterly  direction  throughout  all  the  vast  plains  situ- 
ated to  the  west  of  the  Witbergen  range. 

The  blesbok,  in  his  manners  and  habits,  very  much  resembles  the 
springbok,  which,  however,  it  greatly  exceeds  in  size,  being  as  large  as 
an  English  fallow-deer.  It  is  one  of  the  true  antelopes,  and  all  its 
movements  and  paces  partake  of  the  grace  and  elegance  peculiar  to  that 
species.  Its  colour  is  similar  to  that  of  the  sassayby,  its  skin  being 
beautifully  painted  with  every  shade  of  purple,  violet,  and  brown.  Its 
belly  is  of  the  purest  white,  and  a  broad  white  band,  or  "blaze,"  adorns 
the  entire  length  of  its  face.  Blesboks  differ  from  springboks  in  the  de- 
termined and  invariable  manner  in  which  they  scour  the  plains,  right  in 
the  wind's  eye,  and  also  in  the  manner  in  which  they  carry  their  noses 
close  along  the  ground.  Throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  year  they 
are  very  wary  and  difficult  of  approach,  but  more  especially  when  the 
does  have  young  ones.  At  that  season,  when  one  herd  is  disturbed,  and 
takes  away  up  the  wind,  every  other  herd  in  view  follows  them ;  and 
the  alarm  extending  for  miles  and  miles  down  the  wind,  to  endless  herds 
beyond  the  vision  of  the  hunter,  a  continued  stream  of  blesboks  may 
often  be  seen  scouring  up  wind  for  upwards  of  an  hour,  and  covering 
the  landscape  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see. 

The  springboks,  which  in  equal  numbers  frequent  the  same  ground, 
do  not  in  general  adopt  the  same  decided  course  as  the  blesboks,  but 
take  away  in  every  direction  across  the  plains,  sometimes  with  flying 
bounds,  beautifully  exhibiting  the  long,  snowy-white  hair  with  which 
their  backs  are  adorned,  and  at  others  walking  slowly  and  carelessly  out 
of  the  hunter's  way,  scarcely  deigning  to  look  at  him,  with  an  air  of 
perfect  independence,  as  if  aware  of  their  own  matchless  speed. 

The  black  wildebeests,  which  also  thickly  cover  the  entire  length  and 


HABITS   OF   BLESBOK  AND   WILDEBEEST.  93 


breadth  of  the  blesbok  country,  in  herds  averaging  from  twenty  to  fifty, 
have  no  regular  course,  like  the  blesboks.  Unless  driven  by  a  large 
field  of  hunters,  they  do  not  leave  their  ground,  although  disturbed. 
Wheeling  about  in  endless  circles,  and  performing  the  most  extra- 
ordinary variety  of  intricate  evolutions,  the  shaggy  herds  of  these 
eccentric  and  fierce-looking  animals  are  for  ever  capering  and  gamboll- 
ing round  the  hunter  on  every  side.  While  he  is  riding  hard  to  obtain 
a  family  shot  of  a  herd  in  front  of  him,  other  herds  are  charging  down 
wind  on  his  right  and  left,  and,  having  described  a  number  of  circular 
movements,  they  take  up  positions  upon  the  very  ground  across  which 
the  hunter  rode  only  a  few  minutes  before. 

Singly,  and  in  small  troops  of  four  or  five  individuals,  the  old  bull 
wildebeests  may  be  seen  stationed  at  intervals  throughout  the  plains, 
standing  motionless  during  a  whole  forenoon,  coolly  watching  with  a 
philosophic  eye  the  movements  of  the  other  game,  eternally  uttering  a 
loud  snorting  noise,  and  also  a  short,  sharp  cry  which  is  peculiar  to 
them.  When  the  hunter  approaches  these  old  bulls,  they  commence 
whisking  their  long  white  tails  in  a  most  eccentric  manner ;  then 
springing  suddenly  into  the  air,  they  begin  prancing  and  capering,  and 
pursue  each  other  in  circles  at  their  utmost  speed.  Suddenly  they  all 
pull  up  together,  to  overhaul  the  intruder,  when  two  of  the  bulls  will 
often  commence  fighting  in  the  most  violent  manner,  dropping  on  their 
knees  at  every  shock  ;  then  quickly  wheeling  about,  they  kick  up  their 
heels,  whirl  their  tails  with  a  fantastic  flourish,  and  scour  across  the 
plain  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  dust. 

Throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  plains  frequented  by  blesboks, 
numbers  of  the  sun-baked  hills  or  mounds  of  clay  formed  by  the  white 
ants  occur.  The  average  height  of  the  ant-hills,  in  these  districts,  is 
from  two  to  three  feet.  They  are  generally  distant  from  one  another 
from  one  to  three  hundred  yards,  being  more  or  less  thickly  placed  in 
different  parts.  These  ant-hills  are  of  the  greatest  service  to  the  hunter, 
enabling  him  with  facility  to  conceal  himself  on  the  otherwise  open 
plain.  By  means  of  them  I  was  enabled  to  hide,  and  select  out  of  the 
herds  the  bucks  and  bulls  carrying  the  finest  heads  for  my  collection. 

On  the  28th,  having  breakfasted,  I  rode  forth  with  two  after-riders, 
to  try  for  blesboks,  and  took  up  positions  on  the  plain,  lying  flat  on  my 
breast  behind  ant-hills,  while  my  after-riders,  one  of  whom  led  my  horse, 
endeavoured  to  move  them  towards  me.  We  found  the  blesboks  abun- 
dant, but  extremely  wary.  I  wounded  several,  but  did  not  bag  one.  I 
however  shot  two  springboks,  which  were  fat,  and  whose  flesh  we  stood 
much  in  need  of.  I  had  several  chances  of  wildebeests,  but  I  had 
resolved  not  to  fire  at  them. 

The  following  day  was  the  1st  of  March.  After  an  early  breakfast  I 
again  took  the  field,  with  my  after-riders  and  a  spare  horse.  There  was 
thunder  and  lightning  on  all  sides,  and  I  expected  the  day  would  set  in 
wet :  it  all  passed  over,  however,  with  a  few  showers,  and  the  weather 
was  delightfully  cool.  I  lay  behind  ant-hills,  while  my  men,  extending 
to  the  right  and  left,  endeavoured  to  drive  the  game  towards  me.  Late 
in  the  day  I  bagged  a  fine  old  blesbok  ;  it  was  a  family  shot,  running  at 


94    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

two  hundred  yards.  I  also  shot  a  spriDgbok,  and  mortally  wounded 
another  ;  both  were  very  long  shots. 

The  blesbok  is  one  of  the  finest  antelopes  in  the  world,  and  is  allowed 
to  be  the  swiftest  buck  in  Africa.  He  nevertheless  attains  very  high 
condition,  and  at  this  period  was  exceedingly  fat.  I  was  surprised  and 
delighted  with  the  exquisite  manner  in  which  his  beautiful  colours  are 
blended  together.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  this  animal.  Like 
most  other  African  antelopes,  his  skin  emitted  a  most  delicious  and 
powerful  perfume  of  flowers  and  sweet-smelling  herbs.  A  secretion 
issues  from  between  his  hoofs  which  has  likewise  a  pleasing  perfume. 

The  3rd  was  a  charmingly  cool  day.  At  an  early  hour  in  the  morn- 
ing I  was  visited  by  a  party  of  Boers,  some  of  whom  I  had  previously 
met.  They  were  proceeding  to  hunt  wildebeest  and  blesbok,  and  were 
mounted  on  mares,  each  of  which  was  followed  by  a  foal.  They 
requested  me  to  join  them  in  their  "  jag,"  but  I  excused  myself,  pre- 
ferring to  hunt  alone.  Having  partaken  largely  of  my  coffee,  the  Boers 
mounted  their  mares  and  departed,  holding  a  south-easterly  course.  As 
soon  as  they  were  out  of  sight  I  saddled  up  and  rode  north,  with  two 
after-riders,  to  try  for  blesboks.  I  found  the  country  extremely  pleas- 
ant to  ride  on.  It  resembled  a  well  kept  lawn.  Troops  of  graceful 
springbok  and  blesbok  were  to  be  seen  cantering  right  and  left,  and 
large  herds  of  black  wildebeests  in  every  direction,  now  charging  and 
capering,  and  now  reconnoitring.  I  took  up  positions  on  the  plain 
behind  the  ant-hills.  In  the  forenoon  I  wounded  one  blesbok,  and  late 
in  the  day  I  made  a  fine  double  shot,  knocking  over  two  old  blesboks 
right  and  left,  at  a  hundred  and  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  I  also  shot 
one  springbok. 

While  "  gralloching  "  a  buck,  one  of  the  Boers  rode  up  to  me  to  say 
that  his  brother  had  wounded  a  wildebeest,  which  stood  at  bay  on  the 
plain ;  and  his  ammunition  being  expended,  he  would  feel  obliged  by 
my  coming  to  his  assistance.  I  accordingly  accompanied  the  Boer  to 
where  his  brother  stood  sentry  over  the  wounded  bull,  when  I  lent  him 
my  rifle,  with  which  he  finished  his  bull  with  a  bullet  in  the  forehead. 

On  the  following  day  I  hunted  to  the  north-east  of  my  camp,  and 
made  a  fine  shot  at  a  blesbok,  knocking  him  over  at  a  hundred  and  fifty 
yards.  Returning  to  camp  in  a  low-lying  grassy  vley,  I  started  a  herd 
of  "  vlacke  varcke,"  or  wild  hogs.  The  herd  consisted  of  seven  half- 
grown  young  ones  and  three  old  ones,  one  of  which  carried  a  pair  of 
enormous  tusks,  projecting  eight  or  nine  inches  beyond  his  lip.  Being 
well  mounted  and  the  ground  favourable,  I  at  once  gave  chase  and  was 
soon  at  their  heels.  My  horse  was  "  The  Grey."  I  selected  the  old 
boar  for  my  prey,  and  immediately  separated  him  from  his  comrades. 
After  two  miles  of  sharp  galloping,  we  commenced  ascending  a  consider- 
able acclivity,  when  I  managed  to  close  with  him,  and  succeeded  in 
turning  his  head  towards  my  camp.  He  now  reduced  his  pace  to  a  trot, 
and  regarded  me  with  a  most  malicious  eye,  his  mouth  a  mass  of  foam. 
He  was  entirely  in  my  power,  as  I  had  only  to  spring  from  my  horse 
and  bowl  him  over.  I  felt  certain  of  him,  but  resolved  not  to  shoot  as 
long  as  his  course  lay  in  the  direction  of  the  waggons. 

At  length,  surprised  at  the  resolute  manner  in  which  he  held  for  my 


THE    WILD     BOAE.  95 

camp,  I  headed  him ;  when,  to  my  astonishment,  he  did  not  in  the 
slightest  swerve  from  his  course,  but  trotted  along  behind  my  horse  like 
a  dog  following  me.  This  at  once  roused  my  suspicions,  and  I  felt 
certain  that  the  cunning  old  fellow  was  making  for  some  retreat,  so  I 
resolved  to  dismount  and  finish  him.  Just,  however,  as  I  had  come  to 
this  resolution,  I  suddenly  found  myself  in  a  labyrinth  of  enormous 
holes,  the  burrows  of  the  ant-bear.  In  front  of  one  of  these  the  wild 
boar  pulled  up,  and,  charging  stern  foremost  into  it,  disappeared  from 
my  disappointed  eyes,  and  I  saw  him  no  more.  I  rode  home  for  my 
men ;  and,  returning,  we  collected  grass  and  bushes  and  eadeavoured  to 
smoke  him  out,  but  without  success. 

On  the  7th  we  inspanned  at  dawn  of  day,  and  trekked  east  about  ten 
miles,  encamping  beside  a  small  isolated  farmhouse,  which  had  been 
lately  vacated  by  some  Boer  owing  to  the  impending  war  with  the 
Griquas.  Here  we  found  plenty  of  old  cow-dung  for  fuel — an  article 
which,  throughout  the  whole  of  the  blesbok  country,  is  very  scarce, 
there  often  being  great  difficulty  in  obtaining  sufficient  fuel  to  boil  the 
kettle  for  coffee.  Beside  the  farmhouse  were  two  strong  springs  of 
excellent  water,  in  which  cresses  flourished.  Game  was  abundant  on 
all  sides ;  wildebeests  and  springboks  pasturing  within  a  few  hundred 
yards  of  the  door  as  we  drove  up.  Below  the  fountains  was  a  small 
garden,  in  which  I  found  a  welcome  supply  of  onions  and  other  vege- 
tables. 

On  the  12th  I  bagged  two  bull  wildebeests  and  two  springboks  to  the 
northward  of  my  camp.  In  the  evening  I  took  my  pillow  and  "kom- 
berse,"  or  skin  blanket,  to  the  margin  of  a  neighbouring  vley,  where  I 
had  observed  doe  blesboks  drink.  Of  these  I  had  not  yet  secured  a 
single  specimen,  which  I  was  very  anxious  to  do,  as  they  likewise  carry 
fine  horns,  which,  though  not  so  thick  as  those  of  the  males,  are  more 
gracefully  formed.  Shortly  after  I  had  lain  down,  two  porcupines  came 
grunting  up  to  me,  and  stood  within  six  feet  of  where  I  lay.  About 
midnight  an  old  wildebeest  came  and  stood  within  ten  yards  of  me, 
but  I  was  too  lazy  to  fire  at  him.  All  night  I  heard  some  creature 
moving  in  the  cracked  earth  beneath  my  pillow ;  but,  believing  it  to  be 
a  mouse,  I  did  not  feel  much  concerned  about  the  matter.  I  could  not, 
however,  divest  myself  of  a  painful  feeling  that  it  might  be  a  snake, 
and  wrapped  my  blanket  tight  round  my  body.  Awaking  at  an  early 
hour  the  following  morning,  I  forgot  to  look  for  the  tenant  who  had 
spent  the  night  beneath  my  pillow.  No  blesbok  appearing,  I  stalked 
an  old  sprinkbok  through  the  rushes  and  shot  him.  Having  concealed 
him,  I  held  for  camp,  and  despatched  two  men  to  bring  home  the  veni- 
son and  my  bedding. 

While  taking  my  breakfast  I  observed  my  men  returning,  one  of  them 
carrying  a  very  large  and  deadly  serpent.  I  at  once  felt  certain  it  was 
he  that  I  had  heard  the  previous  night  beneath  my  pillow  ;  and  on  ask- 
ing them  where  they  had  killed  it,  they  replied  "In  your  bed."  On 
approaching  the  bedding,  they  had  discovered  the  horrid  reptile  sunning 
itself  on  the  edge  of  my  blanket,  until  on  perceiving  them  it  glided  in 
beneath  it.     It  was  a  large  specimen  of  the  black  variety  of  the  puff 


96    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

adder,  one  of  the  most  poisonous  serpents  of  Africa,  death  ensuing  with- 
in an  hour  after  its  bite. 

On  the  15th  I  had  a  very  good  day's  sport.  As  the  day  dawned  I 
peeped  from  my  hole,  and  saw  troops  of  blesboks  feeding  on  every  side 
of  me,  but  none  came  within  range.  I  shot  one  springbok  ;  and  having 
concealed  him  in  the  rushes,  I  walked  to  camp.  After  breakfast,  I  took 
the  field  with  Kleinboy  and  Bushman,  and  rode  north  to  try  for  bles- 
boks. While  lying  behind  an  ant-hill  on  the  bare  plain,  a  herd  of  about 
thirty  wildebeests  came  thundering  down  upon  me,  and  the  leading  bull 
nearly  jumped  over  me.  Into  one  of  these  I  fired  ;  he  got  the  ball  too 
far  back,  however,  and  made  off,  but  was  found  by  one  of  my  men  the 
following  day.  Presently  Kleinboy  rode  up,  and  stated  that  while  he 
was  driving  the  blesboks  he  had  observed  an  old  stag  hartebeest  standing 
in  the  shade  of  some  tall  green  bushes  in  the  adjacent  range  of  hills.  I 
resolved  to  stalk  him  in  the  most  approved  Highland  fashion ;  so,  having 
made  an  accurate  survey  of  the  ground  with  my  spyglass,  I  rode  within 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  him,  and  then  proceeded  to  creep  in  upon  him  on 
my  hands  and  knees. 

In  this  manner  I  got  within  sixty  yards  of  him,  where  I  lay  flat  on 
my  breast  for  several  minutes  until  he  should  give  me  his  broadside. 
Presently  he  walked  forth  from  the  cover  of  the  bush  beneath  which  he 
had  been  standing,  when  I  sent  a  ball  in  at  his  right  shoulder,  which 
rested  on  the  skin  in  his  left  haunch.  Wheeling  about,  he  bounded  over 
an  adjacent  ridge  and  was  out  of  sight  in  a  moment.  On  gaining  this 
ridge  I  was  just  in  time  to  see  the  noble  hartebeest  stagger  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  then  subside  into  the  long  grass  in  a  hollow  below  me.  He  was 
a  princely  old  stag,  carrying  splendid  horns  and  a  beautiful  coat  of  new 
hair.  I  thought  I  could  never  sufficiently  admire  him.  Having  removed 
the  head  and  skin,  we  made  for  the  camp,  and  on  my  way  thither  I  was 
tempted  to  try  a  long  shot  at  one  of  two  old  blesboks  that  kept  caper- 
ing to  leeward  of  us.  Sitting  down  on  the  grass,  and  resting  both  my 
elbows  on  my  knees  (a  manner  of  firing  much  practised  by  the  Boers), 
I  let  fly  at  a  blesbok,  and  made  one  of  the  finest  shots  I  had  ever  seen, 
sending  the  ball  through  the  middle  of  his  shoulder  at  upwards  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  yards.  On  receiving  it  he  cantered  forward  a  short 
distance  and  fell  dead. 

The  rifle  I  used  in  those  days  was  a  double-barrelled  two-grooved  one, 
by  Dixon  of  Edinburgh,  with  which  I  managed  to  make  such  superior 
shooting  to  that  which  I  could  perform  with  the  old  style  of  rifle,  that 
I  considered  the  latter  as  a  mere  "  popgun  "  in  comparison  with  the 
other.  In  the  evening  I  took  up  my  position  in  my  shooting-hole  to  the 
northward  of  camp.  About  an  hour  after  the  moon  rose,  a  troop  of 
wildebeests  came  and  stood  within  thirty  yards  of  me.  I  fired,  and  a 
very  large  bull  with  one  horn  fell  to  the  shot.  If  I  had  allowed  this 
bull  to  lie  there,  my  chance  of  further  sport  was  over  for  that  night  and 
the  following  morning.  I  therefore  took  the  old  fellow  by  his  horn,  and, 
exerting  my  utmost  strength  and  taking  time,  I  managed  to  drag  him 
as  he  fell,  and  still  living,  to  a  hollow  beside  the  water,  in  which  I  con- 
cealed him.  In  half  an  hour  another  troop  of  wildebeests  came  and 
stood  snuffing  on  the  spot  where  he  had  fallen.     I  fired,  and  a  fine  old 


AN    ADVENTURE    WITH    WILD    DOGS.      97 


bull  received  the  ball  in  the  shoulder,  and  bounding  forward  one  hun- 
dred yards  rolled  over  in.  the  dust.  In  about  an  hour  a  third  troop  of 
wildebeests  came  and  stood  within  thirty  yards  of  me.  At  one  of  these 
I  let  fly,  and  heard  the  ball  crack  loudly  on  his  shoulder. 

On  the  16th  I  hunted  on  the  plains  to  the  north-east,  killing  one 
springbok,  and  at  night  I  watched  the  distant  vley  to  the  northward  of 
my  camp,  and  got  a  fright  which  I  shall  remember  to  my  dying  day. 
Soon  after  the  moon  rose,  a  troop  of  wildebeests  came  within  range  ;  at 
one  of  these  I  fired,  and  he  dropped  to  the  shot,  the  ball  passing 
through  the  spine.  A  little  after  this  I  discharged  my  other  barrel  at  a 
large  spotted  hyaena,  and  then  I  returned  my  rifle  to  its  holster  without 
loading  either  barrel,  and  presently  I  was  asleep. 

I  had  not  slept  long  when  my  light  dreams  were  influenced  by  strange 
sounds.  I  dreamt  that  lions  were  rushing  about  in  quest  of  me,  and, 
the  sounds  increasing,  I  awoke  with  a  sudden  start,  uttering  a  loud 
shriek.  I  could  not  for  several  seconds  remember  in  what  part  of  the 
world  I  was,  or  anything  connected  with  my  present  position.  I  heard 
the  rushing  of  light  feet  as  of  a  pack  of  wolves  close  on  every  side  of 
me,  accompanied  by  the  most  unearthly  sounds.  On  raising  my  head, 
to  my  utter  horror  I  saw  on  every  side  nothing  but  savage  wild  dogs, 
chattering  and  growling.  On  my  right  and  on  my  left,  and  within  a 
few  paces  of  me,  stood  two  lines  of  these  ferocious-looking  animals  cock- 
ing their  ears  and  stretching  their  necks  to  have  a  look  at  me  ;  while 
two  large  troops,  in  which  there  were  at  least  forty  of  them,  kept  dash- 
ing backwards  and  forwards  across  my  wind  within  a  few  yards  of  me, 
chattering  and  growling  with  the  most  extraordinary  volubility.  An- 
other troop  of  wild  dogs  were  fighting  over  the  wildebeest  I  had  shot, 
which  they  had  begun  to  devour. 

On  beholding  them  I  expected  no  other  fate  than  to  be  instantly  torn 
to  pieces  and  consumed.  I  felt  my  blood  curdling  along  my  cheeks  and 
my  hair  bristling  on  my  head.  However,  I  had  presence  of  mind  to 
consider  that  the  human  voice  and  a  determined  bearing  might  overawe 
them,  and  accordingly,  springing  to  my  feet,  I  stepped  on  to  the  little 
ledge  surrounding  the  hole,  where,  drawing  myself  up  to  my  full  height, 
I  waved  my  large  blanket  with  both  hands,  at  the  same  time  addressing 
my  savage  assembly  in  a  loud  and  solemn  manner.  This  had  the  desired 
effect:  the  wild  dogs  removed  to  a  more  respectful  distance,  barking  at 
me  something  like  collies.  Upon  this  I  snatched  up  my  rifle  and  com- 
menced loading,  and  before  this  was  accomplished  the  entire  pack  had 
passed  away  and  did  not  return. 

These  had  not  been  gone  many  minutes  when  twelve  or  fifteen  large 
hysenas  were  hard  at  work  on  the  wildebeest.  I  fired  two  shots  at  them 
at  different  times  during  the  night,  but  none  fell  to  my  shots.  Heedless 
of  me  they  continued  their  banquet,  and  long  before  morning  nothing 
was  left  of  the  wildebeest  save  a  few  of  the  larger  bones.  On  the  two 
following  mornings  I  was  annoyed  by  a  cunning  old  bull  wildebeest, 
which,  having  discovered  my  retreat,  kept  sentry  over  me,  and 
successively  drove  away  every  troop  of  his  fellows  that  approached  my 
vley  to  drink.  He  kept  feeding  just  out  of  rifle-range,  and  not  only 
warned  his  comrades  of  their  danger  by  fixing  his  eye  on  my  place  of 


98    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

concealment  and  snorting  loudly,  but  when  this  failed  he  drove  the 
other  wildebeests  from  me  in  the  most  determined  manner,  like  a  collie 
dog  driving  sheep.  Before  leaving  my  hole,  however,  on  the  second 
morning,  I  had  my  revenge.  A  troop  of  cows,  heedless  of  his  warnings, 
approached  the  vley.  In  his  anxiety  for  their  safety  he  neglected  his 
own  ;  and  eoming  for  the  first  time  within  long  rifle-range,  I  put  up  my 
after-sights  and  let  drive  at  his  ribs.  The  ball  took  effect,  and,  kicking 
up  his  heels  and  flourishing  his  long  white  tail,  the  old  bull  bounded 
forth,  and  disappearing  over  a  ridge  I  saw  him  no  more. 

The  night  of  the  19th  was  to  me  rather  a  memorable  one,  as  being  the 
first  on  which  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  the  deep-toned  thunder 
of  the  lion's  roar.  Although  there  was  no  one  near,  to  inform  me  by 
what  beast  the  haughty  and  impressive  sounds  which  echoed  through 
the  wilderness  were  produced,  I  had  little  difficulty  in  divining.  There 
was  no  mistake  about  it ;  and  on  hearing  it  I  at  once  knew,  as  well  as  if 
accustomed  to  the  sound  from  my  infancy,  that  the  appalling  roar  which 
was  uttered  within  half  a  mile  of  me  was  no  other  than  that  of  the 
mighty  and  terrible  king  of  beasts.  Although  the  dignified  and  truly 
monarchical  appearance  of  the  lion  has  long  rendered  him  famous 
amongst  his  fellow  quadrupeds,  and  his  appearance  and  habits  have 
often  been  described  by  abler  pens  than  mine,  nevertheless  I  consider 
that  a  few  remarks,  resulting  from  my  own  personal  experience,  formed 
by  a  tolerably  long  acquaintance  with  him  both  by  day  and  by  night, 
may  not  prove  uninteresting  to  the  reader. 

There  is  something  so  noble  and  imposing  in  the  presence  of  the  lion, 
when  seen  walking  with  dignified  self-possession,  free  and  undaunted, 
on  his  native  soil,  that  no  description  can  convey  an  adequate  idea  of 
his  striking  appearance.  The  lion  is  exquisitely  formed  by  nature  for 
the  predatory  habits  which  he  is  destined  to  pursue.  Combining  in 
comparatively  small  compass  the  qualities  of  power  and  agility,  he  is 
enabled,  by  means  of  the  tremendous  machinery  with  which  nature  has 
gifted  him,  easily  to  overcome  and  destroy  almost  every  beast  of  the 
forest,  however  superior  to  him  in  weight  and  stature. 

Though  considerably  under  four  feet  in  height,  he  has  little  difficulty 
in  dashing  to  the  ground  and  overcoming  the  lofty  and  apparently 
powerful  giraffe,  whose  head  towers  above  the  trees  of  the  forest,  and 
whose  skin  is  nearly  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  lion  is  the  constant 
attendant  of  the  vast  herds  of  buffaloes  which  frequent  the  interminable 
forests  of  the  interior;  and  a  full-grown  one,  so  long  as  his  teeth  are  un- 
broken, generally  proves  a  match  for  an  old  bull  buffalo,  which  in  size 
and  strength  greatly  surpasses  the  most  powerful  breed  of  English  cattle : 
the  lion  also  preys  on  all  the  larger  varieties  of  the  antelopes,  and  on 
both  varieties  of  the  gnoo.  The  zebra,  which  is  met  with  in  large  herds 
throughout  the  interior,  is  also  a  favourite  object  of  his  pursuit. 

Lions  do  not  refuse,  as  has  been  asserted,  to  feast  upon  the  venison 
that  they  have  not  killed  themselves.  I  have  repeatedly  discovered 
lions  of  all  ages  which  had  taken  possession  of,  and  were  feasting  upon, 
the  carcases  of  various  game  quadrupeds  which  had  fallen  before  my 
rifle.  The  lion  is  very  generally  diffused  throughout  the  secluded  parts 
of  Southern  Africa.     He  is,  however,  nowhere  met  with  in  great  abun- 


THE    LION    AND    ITS    WAYS.  99 

dance,  it  being  very  rare  to  find  more  than  three,  or  even  two,  families 
of  lions  frequenting  the  same  district  and  drinking  at  the  same  fountain. 
When  a  greater  number  were  met  with,  I  remarked  that  it  was  owing 
to  long-protracted  droughts,  which,  by  drying  nearly  all  the  fountains, 
had  compelled  the  game  of  various  districts  to  crowd  the  remaining 
springs,  and  the  lions,  according  to  their  custom,  followed  in  the  wake. 
It  is  a  common  thing  to  come  upon  a  full-grown  lion  and  lioness  asso- 
ciating with  three  or  four  large  young  ones  nearly  full-grown  ;  at  other 
times,  full-grown  males  will  be  found  associating  and  hunting  together 
in  a  happy  state  of  friendship :  two,  three,  and  four  full-grown  male 
lions  may  thus  be  discovered  consorting  together. 

The  male  lion  is  adorned  with  a  long,  rank,  shaggy  mane,  which  in 
some  instances  almost  sweeps  the  ground.  The  colour  of  these  manes 
varies,  some  being  very  dark,  and  others  of  a  golden  yellow.  This 
appearance  has  given  rise  to  a  prevailing  opinion  among  the  Boers  that 
there  are  two  distinct  varieties  of  lions,  which  they  distinguish  by  the 
respective  names  of  "  Schwart  fore  life  "  and  "  Chiel  fore  life  :"  this  idea, 
however^  is  erroneous.  The  colour  of  the  lion's  mane  is  generally  in- 
fluenced by  his  age.  He  attains  his  mane  in  the  third  year  of  his  exis- 
tence. I  have  remarked  that  at  first  it  is  of  a  yellowish  colour ;  in  the 
prime  of  life  it  is  blackest,  and  when  he  has  numbered  many  years,  but 
still  is  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  his  power,  it  assumes  a  yellowish-grey, 
pepper-and-salt  sort  of  colour.  These  old  fellows  are  cunning  and  dan- 
gerous, and  most  to  be  dreaded.  The  females  are  utterly  destitute  of  a 
mane,  being  covered  with  a  short,  thick,  glossy  coat  of  tawny  hair.  The 
manes  and  coats  of  lions  frequenting  open-lying  districts  utterly  destitute 
of  trees,  such  as  the  borders  of  the  great  Kalahari  desert,  are  more  rank 
and  handsome  than  those  inhabiting  forest  districts. 

One  of  the  most  striking  things  connected  with  the  lion  is  his  voice, 
which  is  extremely  grand  and  peculiarly  striking.  It  consists  at  times 
of  a  low,  deep  moaning,  repeated  five  or  six  times,  ending  in  faintly 
audible  sighs ;  at  other  times  he  startles  the  forest  with  loud,  deep-toned, 
solemn  roars,  repeated  five  or  six  times  in  quick  succession,  each  in- 
creasing in  loudness  to  the  third  or  fourth,  when  his  voice  dies  away  in 
five  or  six  low,  muffled  sounds,  very  much  resembling  distant  thunder. 
At  times,  and  not  unfrequently,  a  troop  may  be  heard  roaring  in  con- 
cert, one  assuming  the  lead,  and  two,  three,  or  four  more  regularly  taking 
up  their  parts,  like  persons  singing  a  catch. 

Like  our  Scottish  stags  at  the  rutting  season,  they  roar  loudest  in 
cold,  frosty  nights  ;  but  on  no  occasions  are  their  voices  to  be  heard  in 
such  perfection,  or  so  intensely  powerful,  as  when  two  or  three  strange 
troops  of  lions  approach  a  fountain  to  drink  at  the  same  time.  When 
this  occurs,  every  member  of  each  troop  sounds  a  bold  roar  of  defiance 
at  the  opposite  parties ;  and  when  one  roars,  all  roar  together,  and  each 
seems  to  vie  with  his  comrades  in  the  intensity  and  power  of  his  voice. 
The  power  and  grandeur  of  these  nocturnal  forest  concerts  is  inconceiv- 
ably striking  and  pleasing  to  the  hunter's  ear.  The  effect,  I  may 
remark,  is  greatly  enhanced  when  the  hearer  happens  to  be  situated  in 
the  depths  of  the  forest,  at  the  dead  hour  of  midnight,  unaccompanied 
by  any  attendant,  and  ensconced  within  twenty  yards  of  the  fountain 


100    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

which  the  surrounding  troops  of  lions  are  approaching.  Such  has  been 
my  situation  many  scores  of  times  ;  and  though  I  am  allowed  to  have  a 
tolerably  good  taste  for  music,  I  consider  the  catches  with  which  I  was 
then  regaled  as  the  sweetest  and  most  natural  I  ever  heard. 

As  a  general  rule,  lions  roar  during  the  night ;  their  sighing  moans 
commencing  as  the  shades  of  evening  envelop  the  forest,  and  continuing 
at  intervals  throughout  the  night.  In  distant  and  secluded  regions, 
however,  I  have  constantly  heard  them  roaring  loudly  as  late  as  nine 
and  ten  o'clock  on  a  bright  sunny  morning.  In  hazy  and  rainy  weather 
they  are  to  be  heard  at  every  hour  in  the  day,  but  their  roar  is  subdued. 
It  often  happens  that  when  two  strange  male  lions  meet  at  a  fountain  a 
terrific  combat  ensues,  which  not  unfrequently  ends  in  the  death  of  one 
of  them.  The  habits  of  the  lion  are  strictly  nocturnal ;  during  the  day 
he  lies  concealed  beneath  the  shade  of  some  low  bushy  tree  or  wide- 
spreading  bush,  either  in  the  level  forest  or  on  the  mountain  side.  He 
is  also  partial  to  lofty  reeds  or  fields  of  long  rank  yellow  grass,  such  as 
occur  in  low-lying  vleys.  From  these  haunts  he  sallies  forth  when  the 
sun  goes  down,  and  commences  his  nightly  prowl.  When  he  is  success- 
ful in  his  beat,  and  has  secured  his  prey,  he  does  not  roar  much  that 
night,  only  uttering  occasionally  a  few  low  moans  :  that  is,  provided  no 
intruders  approach  him,  otherwise  the  case  would  be  very  different. 

Lions  are  ever  most  active,  daring,  and  presuming  in  dark  and  stormy 
nights ;  and  consequently  on  such  occasions  the  traveller  ought  more 
particularly  to  be  on  his  guard.  I  remarked  a  fact  connected  with  the 
lions'  hour  of  drinking  peculiar  to  themselves  :  they  seemed  unwilling 
to  visit  the  fountains  with  good  moonlight.  Thus,  when  the.  moon  rose 
early,  the  lions  deferred  their  hour  of  watering  until  late  in  the  morn- 
ing ;  and  when  the  moon  rose  late,  they  drank  at  a  very  early  hour  in 
the  night.  By  this  acute  system  many  a  grisly  lion  saved  his  bacon, 
and  is  now  luxuriating  in  the  forests  of  South  Africa,  which  had  other- 
wise fallen  by  the  barrels  of  my  "  Westley  Richards."  Owing  to  the 
tawny  colour  of  the  coat  with  which  nature  has  robed  him  he  is  per- 
fectly invisible  in  the  dark  •  and  although  I  have  often  heard  them 
loudly  lapping  the  water  under  my  very  nose,  not  twenty  yards  from 
me,  I  could  not  possibly  make  out  so  much  as  the  outline  of  their  forms. 

When  a  thirsty  lion  comes  to  water,  he  stretches  out  his  massive 
arms,  lies  down  on  his  breast  to  drink,  and  makes  a  loud  lapping  noise 
in  drinking,  not  to  be  mistaken.  He  continues  lapping  up  the  water  for 
a  long  while,  and  four  or  five  times  during  the  proceeding  he  pauses  for 
half  a  minute  as  if  to  take  breath.  One  thing  conspicuous  about  them 
is  their  eyes,  which,  in  a  dark  night,  glow  like  two  balls  of  fire.  The 
female  is  more  fierce  and  active  than  the  male,  as  a  general  rule. 
Lionesses  which  have  never  had  young  are  much  more  dangerous  than 
those  which  have.  At  no  time  is  the  lion  so  much  to  be  dreaded  as 
when  his  partner  has  got  small  young  ones.  At  that  season  he  knows 
no  fear,  and,  in  the  coolest  and  most  intrepid  manner,  he  will  face  a 
thousand  men.  A  remarkable  instance  of  this  kind  came  under  my  own 
observation  which  confirmed  the  reports  I  had  before  heard  from  the 
natives. 

One  day,  when  out  elephant-hunting  in  the  territory  of  the  "  Base- 


THE    LION    MAN-EATERS.  101 

leka,"  accompanied  by  two  hundred  and  fifty  men,  I  was  astonished 
suddenly  to  behold  a  majestic  lion  slowly  and  steadily  advancing  to- 
ward us  with  a  dignified  step  and  undaunted  bearing,  the  most  noble 
and  imposing  that  can  be  conceived.  Lashing  his  tail  from  side  to  side, 
and  growling  haughtily,  his  terribly  expressive  eye  resolutely  fixed  upon 
us,  and  displaying  a  show  of  ivory  well  calculated  to  inspire  terror 
amongst  the  timid  "  Bechuanas,"  he  approached.  A  headlong  flight  of 
the  two  hundred  and  fifty  men  was  the  immediate  result ;  and,  in  the 
confusion  of  the  moment,  four  couples  of  my  dogs,  which  they  had  been 
leading,  were  allowed  to  escape  in  their  couples.  These  instantly  faced 
the  lion,  who,  finding  that  by  his  bold  bearing  he  had  succeeded  in  put- 
ting his  enemies  to  flight,  now  became  solicitous  for  the  safety  of  his 
little  family,  with  which  the  lioness  was  retreating  in  the  back-ground. 
Facing  about,  he  followed  after  them  with  a  haughty  and  independent 
step,  growling  fiercely  at  the  dogs  which  trotted  along  on  either  side  of 
him.  Three  troops  of  elephants  having  been  discovered  a  few  minutes 
previous  to  this,  upon  which  I  was  marching  for  the  attack,  I,  with  the 
most  heartfelt  reluctance,  reserved  my  fire.  On  running  down  the  hill 
side,  to  endeavour  to  recall  my  dogs,  I  observed,  for  the  first  time,  the 
retreating  lioness  with  four  cubs.  About  twenty  minutes  afterwards 
two  noble  elephants  repaid  my  forbearance. 

Among  Indian  Nimrods  a  certain  class  of  royal  tigers  is  dignified  with 
the  appellation  of  "  man-eaters."  These  are  tigers,  which,  having  once 
tasted  hunlan  flesh,  show  a  predilection  for  the  same,  and  such  char- 
acters are  very  naturally  famed  and  dreaded  among  the  natives.  Elderly 
gentlemen  of  similar  tastes  and  habits  are  occasionally  met  with  among 
the  lions  in  the  interior  of  South  Africa,  and  the  danger  of  such  neigh- 
bours may  be  easily  imagined.  I  account  for  lions  first  acquiring  this 
taste  in  the  following  manner :  the  Bechuana  tribes  of  the  far  interior  do 
not  bury  their  dead,  but  unceremoniously  carry  them  forth,  and  leave 
them  lying  exposed  in  the  forest  or  on  the  plain,  a  prey  to  the  lion  and 
hyaena,  or  the  jackal  and  vulture;  and  I  can  readily  imagine  that  a  lion, 
having  thus  once  tasted  human  flesh,  would  have  little  hesitation,  when 
opportunity  presented  itself,  of  springing  upon  and  carrying  off  the  un- 
wary traveller  or  "  Bechuana  "  inhabiting  his  country.  Be  this  as  it 
may,  man-eaters  occur;  and  on  my  fourth  hunting  expedition  a  horrible 
tragedy  was  acted  one  dark  night  in  my  little  lonely  camp  by  one  of 
these  formidable  characters,  which  deprived  me,  in  the  far  wilderness,  of 
my  most  valuable  servant. 

In  winding  up  these  few  observations  on  the  lion,  Which  I  trust  will 
not  have  been  tiresome  to  the  reader,  I  may  remark  that  lion-hunting, 
under  any  circumstances,  is  decidedly  a  dangerous  pursuit.  It  may, 
nevertheless,  be  followed,  to  a  certain  extent,  with  comparative  safety 
by  those  who  have,  naturally,  a  turn  for  that  sort  of  thing.  A  reckless- 
ness of  death,  perfect  coolness  and  self-possession,  an  acquaintance  with 
the  disposition  and  manners  of  lions,  and  a  tolerable  knowledge  of  the 
use  of  the  rifle,  are  indispensable  to  him  who  would  shine  in  the  over- 
poweringly  exciting  pastime  of  hunting  this  justly-celebrated  king  of 
beasts. 


102    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Boer  Encampment — A  Night  in  a  Storm — A  Fancy  Costume — Fearful  Encounter 
with  a  Lioness — "  Colesberg  "  dreadfully  mangled — Cowardice  of  Hottentots — 
We  march  back  to  Colesberg — Danger  of  being  plundered  by  the  Rebel  Boers 
— Arrival  at  Colesberg — The  Troops  march  against  the  Boers — The  Battle  of 
Schwart  Coppice — Start  for  the  distant  Land  of  Elephants — The  Hottentots 
make  free  with  my  Brandy,  and  mutiny — Leopards — Kuruman — Mr.  Moffat, 
the  good  Missionary — Boasted  Locusts. 

On  the  22nd  of  March  I  rode  south  to  a  distant  farm,  for  the  double 
purpose  of  obtaining  some  corn  or  meal,  and  of  hearing  the  news  of  the 
impending  war  between  the  Boers  and  Griquas.  On  reaching  the  farm 
I  found  that  a  large  party  of  Boers  were  here  encamped  together :  they 
had  mustered  for  mutual  protection.  Their  tents  and  waggons  were 
drawn  up  on  every  side  of  the  farm-house,  forming  a  very  lively  appear- 
ance. The  Boers  informed  me  that  all  their  countrymen,  and  also  the 
Griquas,  were  thus  packed  together  in  "  lagers,"  or  encampments,  and 
that  hostilities  were  about  to  commence.  They  remonstrated  with  me 
on  what  they  were  pleased  to  term  my  madness,  in  living  alone  in  an 
isolated  position  in  such  sharp  times,  and  invited  me  to  place  myself  for 
protection  under  their  banner.  I  endeavoured  to  persuade  them  to  get 
up  a  party  to  hunt  the  lion ;  but  this  they  declined  to  do,  remarking 
that  "  a  lion  (like  Johnnie  Gordon's  bagpipes)  was  not  to  be  played 
with."  Returning  to  my  camp  I  bowled  over  a  springbok  at  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  yards. 

On  the  23rd,  having  breakfasted,  I  rode  north,  with  after-riders,  to 
try  for  blesboks.  It  was  a  cool  day,  with  a  strong  easterly  breeze,  and 
we  found  the  game  extremely  wild.  As  we  proceeded,  vast  herds  kept 
streaming  on  up  the  wind,  darkening  the  plain  before  us,  in  countless 
thousands.  About  two  miles  north  of  the  bushy  mountain  where  I  had 
heard  the  lion  roar,  far  in  the  vast  level  plain,  were  some  bushy  mimosa 
trees.  Within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  these  we  discovered  an  old  bull 
wildebeest,  newly  killed  by  a  lion  and  half  eaten.  His  large  and  strik- 
ing foot-prints  were  deeply  embedded  in  the  sand,  and  so  fresh  that 
they  seemed  to  have  been  imprinted  only  a  few  minutes  before.  More- 
over, there  was  not  a  single  vulture  near  the  carcase.  We  therefore  felt 
convinced  that  the  lion  must  be  lying  somewhere  near  us,  having  hidden 
himself  on  our  approach.  We  searched  for  some  time  in  the  adjacent 
hollows,  where  the  grass  was  very  rank,  but  in  vain. '  The  game  now  be- 
came more  and  more  wild,  taking  away  into  another  district  in  long 
strings,  like  our  island  red-deer  when  hard  driven  ;  I  accordingly  gave 
it  up,  and  turned  my  horse's  head  for  camp.  On  my  way  thither  I 
bagged  one  blesbok  and  two  bull  wildebeests  :  one  of  these  got  the 
bullet  through  his  heart,  but  nevertheless  stood  at  bay  for  some  time 
after. 

On  reaching  camp  I  suddenly  resolved  to  take  men  and  horses  with 
me,  and  spend  the  night  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lion,  and  search  early  for  j 
him  on  the  following  morning.     Accordingly,  while  dinner  was  prepar- 
ing, I  occupied  myself  in  cleaning  and  loading  my  three  double-barrelled 


A    TEERIFIC    TEMPEST.  103 


rifles ;  after  which,  having  dined,  I  rode  with  Kleinboy  and  John 
Stofolus  to  my  hole  by  the  vley,  where  my  bedding  lay  day  and  night. 
This  spot  was  within  a  few  miles  of  where  we  expected  to  fall  in  with 
the  lion  in  the  morning.  We  secured  the  three  horses  to  one  another, 
as  there  was  no  tree  or  bush  within  miles  of  us  ;  but  these  I  could  dis- 
pense with,  for  I  knew  very  well  by  the  looks  of  the  Hottentots  that 
they  would  not  sleep  much,  but  would  keep  a  vigilant  eye  over  our 
destinies.  I  spent  a  most  miserable  night.  The  wind,  which  had  been 
blowing  so  fresh  in  the  height  of  the  day,  had  subsided  to  a  calm  when 
the  sun  went  down,  and  was  now  succeeded  by  an  almost  death-like 
stillness,  which  I  too  well  knew  was  the  harbinger  of  a  coming  tempest. 

We  had  not  lain  down  an  hour  when  the  sky  to  leeward  became  black 
as  pitch.  Presently  the  most  vivid  flashes  of  lightning  followed  one 
another  in  quick  succession,  accompanied  by  terrific  peals  of  thunder. 
The  wind,  which,  during  the  day,  had  been  out  of  the  north-east,  now, 
as  is  usual  on  such  occasions,  veered  right  round  and  came  whistling  up 
from  the  south-west,  where  the  tempest  was  brewing ;  and  in  a  few 
minutes  more  it  was  upon  us  in  all  its  fury,  the  rain  descending  in 
torrents  on  our  devoted  heads,  while  vivid  flashes  of  lightning  momen- 
tarily illumined,  with  the  brilliancy  of  day,  the  darkness  that  reigned 
around.  In  a  very  few  minutes  the  whole  plain  was  a  sheet  of  water, 
and  every  atom  of  my  clothes  and  bedding  was  thoroughly  saturated. 
My  three  rifles  had  excellent  holsters,  and  with  the  help  of  two  sheep- 
skins, which  I  used  instead  of  saddle  cloths,  I  kept  them  quite  dry.  In 
two  hours  the  tempest  had  passed  away,  but  light  rain  fell  till  morning, 
until  which  time  I  lay  on  the  wet  ground,  soaked  to  the  skin.  About 
midnight  we  heard  the  lion  roar  a  mile  or  so  to  the  northward  ;  and  a 
little  before  the  day  dawned  I  again  heard  him  in  the  direction  of  the 
carcase  which  we  had  found  on  the  preceding  day.  Soon  after  this  I 
gave  the  word  to  march.  We  then  arose  and  saddled  our  horses.  I 
found  my  trousers  lying  in  a  pool  of  water,  so  I  converted  a  blanket 
into  a  long  kilt  by  strapping  it  round  my  waist  with  my  shooting-belt. 
The  costume  of  my  followers  was  equally  unique. 

We  held  for  the  north  end  of  the  lion's  mountain  at  a  sharp  pace, 
which  we  gained  before  it  was  clear  enough  to  see  surrounding  objects. 
As  the  light  broke  in  upon  us  we  reduced  our  pace,  and  rode  slowly  up 
the  middle  of  the  vast  level  plain  towards  the  carcase  of  the  wildebeest, 
with  large  herds  of  wildebeests,  springbok,  blesbok,  and  quaggas  on 
every  side  of  us,  which  were  this  day  as  tame  as  they  had  been  wild  on 
the  previous  one.  This  is  generally  the  case  after  a  storm.  The  morn 
was  cloudy  ;  misty  vapours  hung  on  the  shoulders  of  the  neighbouring 
mountains,  and  the  air  was  loaded  with  balmy  perfume,  emitted  by  the 
grateful  plants  and  herbs.  As  we  approached  the  carcase,  I  observed 
several  jackals  steal  away,  and  some  half-drowned-looking  vultures  were 
sitting  round  it.  But  there  was  no  appearance  of  the  lion.  I  spent  the 
next  half-hour  in  riding  across  the  plain  looking  for  his  spoor ;  but  I 
sought  in  vain.  Being  cold  and  hungry,  I  turned  my  horse's  head  for 
camp,  and  rode  slowly  along  through  the  middle  of  the  game,  which 
would  scarcely  move  out  of  rifle-range  on  either  side  of  me. 

Suddenly  I  observed  a  number  of  vultures  seated  on  the  plain  about 


104    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

a  quarter  of  a  mile  ahead  of  us,  and  close  beside  them  stood  a  huge 
lioness,  consuming  a  blesbok  which  she  had  killed.  She  was  assisted  in 
her  repast  by  about  a  dozen  jackals,  which  were  feasting  along  with 
her  in  the  most  friendly  and  confidential  manner.  Directing  my 
followers'  attention  to  the  spot,  I  remarked,  "  I  see  the  lion ; "  to  which 
they  replied,  "  Whar  1  whar  ?  Yah  !  Almagtig  !  dat  is  he  ;  "  and 
instantly  reining  in  their  steeds  and  wheeling  about,  they  pressed  their 
heels  to  their  horses'  sides,  and  were  preparing  to  betake  themselves  to 
flight.     I  asked  them  what  they  were  going  to  do  ? 

To  which  they  answered,  "We  have  not  yet  placed  caps  on  our  rifles." 
This  was  true ;  but  while  this  short  conversation  was  passing  the  lioness 
had  observed  us.  Raising  her  full,  round  face,  she  overhauled  us  for  a 
few  seconds  and  then  set  off  at  a  smart  canter  towards  a  range  of  moun- 
tains some  miles  to  the  northward ;  the  whole  troop  of  jackals  also 
started  off  in  another  direction ;  there  was,  therefore,  no  time  to  think 
of  caps.  The  first  move  was  to  bring  her  to  bay,  and  not  a  second  was 
to  be  lost.  Spurring  my  good  and  lively  steed,  and  shouting  to  my  men 
to  follow,  I  flew  across  the  plain,  and,  being  fortunately  mounted  on 
Colesberg,  the  flower  of  my  stud,  I  gained  upon  her  at  every  stride. 
This  was  to  me  a  joyful  moment,  and  I  at  once  made  up  my  mind  that 
she  or  I  must  die. 

The  lioness  having  had  a  long  start  of  me,  we  went  over  a  consider- 
able extent  of  ground  before  I  came  up  with  her.  She  was  a  large  full- 
grown  beast,  and  the  bare  and  level  nature  of  the  plain  added  to  her 
imposing  appearance.  Finding  that  I  gained  upon  her,  she  reduced  her 
pace  from  a  canter  to  a  trot,  carrying  her  tail  stuck  out  behind  her,  and 
slewed  a  little  to  one  side.  I  shouted  loudly  to  her  to  halt,  as  I  wished 
to  speak  with  her,  upon  which  she  suddenly  pulled  up,  and  sat  on  her 
haunches  like  a  dog,  with  her  back  towards  me,  not  even  deigning  to 
look  round.  She  then  appeared  to  say  to  herself,  "  Does  this  fellow 
know  who  he  is  after  ?  "  Having  thus  sat  for  half  a  minute,  as  if 
involved  in  thought,  she  sprang  to  her  feet,  and,  facing  about,  stood 
looking  at  me  for  a  few  seconds,  moving  her  tail  slowly  from  side  to 
side,  showing  her  teeth,  and  growling  fiercely.  She  next  made  a  short 
run  forwards,  making  a  loud,  rumbling  noise  like  thunder.  This  she 
did  to  intimidate  me  ;  but,  finding  that  I  did  not  flinch  an  inch  nor 
seem  to  heed  her  hostile  demonstrations,  she  quietly  stretched  out  her 
massive  arms,  and  lay  down  on  the  grass.  My  Hottentots  now  coming 
up,  we  all  three  dismounted,  and,  drawing  our  rifles  from  their  holsters, 
we  looked  to  see  if  the  powder  was  up  in  the  nipples,  and  put  on  our 
caps. 

While  this  was  doing  the  lioness  sat  up,  and  showed  evident 
symptoms  of  uneasiness.  She  looked  first  at  us,  and  then  behind  her, 
as  if  to  see  if  the  coast  were  clear ;  after  which  she  made  a  short  run 
towards  us,  uttering  her  deep-drawn  murderous  growls.  Having 
secured  the  three  horses  to  one  another  by  their  rheims,  we  led  them  on 
as  if  we  intended  to  pass  her,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a  broadside. 
But  this  she  carefully  avoided  to  expose,  presenting  only  her  full  front. 
I  had  given  Stofolus  my  Moore  rifle,  with  orders  to  shoot  her  if  she 
should  spring  upon  me,  but  on  no  account  to  fire  before  me.     Kleinboy 


AN    ADVENTURE    WITH    A    LIONESS.        105 

was  to  stand  ready  to  hand  me  my  Purdey  rifle,  in  case  the  two- 
grooved  Dixon  should  not  prove  sufficient.  My  men  as  yet  had  been 
steady,  but  they  were  in  a  precious  stew,  their  faces  having  assumed  a 
ghastly  paleness,  and  I  had  a  painful  feeling  that  I  could  place  no 
reliance  on  them. 

Now,  then,  for  it,  neck  or  nothing  !  She  is  within  sixty  yards  of  us, 
and  she  keeps  advancing.  We  turned  the  horses'  tails  to  her.  I  knelt 
on  one  side,  and,  taking  a  steady  aim  at  her  breast,  let  fly.  The  ball 
cracked  loudly  on  her  tawny  hide,  and  crippled  her  in  the  shoulder, 
upon  which  she  charged  with  an  appalling  roar,  and  in  the  twinkling  of 
an  eye  she  was  in  the  midst  of  us.  At  this  moment  Stofolus's  rifle 
exploded  in  his  hand,  and  Kleinboy,  whom  I  had  ordered  to  stand  ready 
by  me,  danced  about  like  a  duck  in  a  gale  of  wind.  The  lioness  sprang 
upon  Colesberg,  and  fearfully  lacerated  his  ribs  and  haunches  with  her 
horrid  teeth  and  claws ;  the  worst  wound  was  on  his  haunch,  which 
exhibited  a  sickening,  yawning  gash,  more  than  twelve  inches  long, 
almost  laying  bare  the  very  bone.  I  was  very  cool  and  steady,  and  did 
not  feel  in  the  least  degree  nervous,  having  fortunately  great  confidence 
in  my  own  shooting ;  but  I  must  confess,  when  the  whole  affair  was 
over  I  felt  that  it  was  a  very  awful  situation  and  attended  with  extreme 
peril,  as  I  had  no  friend  with  me  on  whom  I  could  rely. 

When  the  lioness  sprang  on  Colesberg,  I  stood  out  from  the  horses, 
ready  with  my  second  barrel  for  the  first  chance  she  should  give  me  of 
a  clear  shot.  This  she  quickly  did ;  for,  seemingly  satisfied  with  the 
revenge  she  had  now  taken,  she  quitted  Colesberg,  and,  slewing  her  tail 
to  one  side,  trotted  sulkily  past  within  a  few  paces  of  me.  Taking  one 
step  to  the  left,  I  pitched  my  rifle  to  my  shoulder,  and  in  another 
second  the  lioness  was  stretched  on  the  plain  a  lifeless  corpse.  In  the 
struggles  of  death  she  half  turned  on  her  back,  and  stretched  her  neck 
and  fore  arms  convulsively,  when  she  fell  back  to  her  former  position  ; 
her  mighty  arms  hung  powerless  by  her  side,  her  lower  jaw  fell,  blood 
streamed  from  her  mouth,  and  she  expired.  At  the  moment  I  fired  my 
second  shot,  Stofolus,  who  hardly  knew  whether  he  was  alive  or  dead, 
allowed  the  three  horses  to  escape.  These  galloped  frantically  across 
the  plain ;  on  which  he  and  Kleinboy  instantly  started  after  them, 
leaving  me  standing  alone  and  unarmed  within  a  few  paces  of  the 
lioness,  which  they,  from  their  anxiety  to  be  out  of  the  way,  evidently 
considered  quite  capable  of  doing  further  mischief. 

Such  is  ever  the  case  with  these  worthies,  and  with  nearly  all  the 
natives  of  South  Africa.  No  reliance  can  be  placed  on  them.  They 
will  to  a  certainty  forsake  their  master  in  the  most  dastardly  manner  in 
the  hour  of  peril,  and  leave  him  in  the  lurch.  A  stranger,  however, 
hearing  these  fellows  recounting  their  own  gallant  adventures,  when 
sitting  in  the  evening  along  with  their  comrades  round  a  blazing  fire,  or 
under  the  influence  of  their  adored  "  Cape  smoke  "  or  native  brandy, 
might  fancy  them  to  be  the  bravest  of  the  brave.  Having  skinned  the 
lioness  and  cut  off  her  head,  we  placed  her  trophies  upon  Beauty,  and 
held  for  camp.  Before  we  had  proceeded  a  hundred  yards  from  the 
carcase,  upwards  of  sixty  vultures,  whom  the  lioness  had  often  fed,  were 
feasting  on  her  remains. 


106     HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

We  led  poor  Colesberg  slowly  home,  where  having  washed  his 
wounds,  and  carefully  stitched  them  together,  I  ordered  the  cold  water 
cure  to  be  adopted.  Under  this  treatment  his  wounds  rapidly  healed, 
and  he  eventually  recovered.  The  sky  remained  overcast  throughout 
the  day.  When  the  shades  of  evening  set  in,  terror  seemed  to  have 
taken  possession  of  the  minds  of  my  followers,  and  they  swore  that  the 
mate  of  the  lioness,  on  finding  her  bones,  would  follow  on  our  spoor  and 
revenge  her  death.  Under  this  impression  they  refused  to  remain 
about  the  waggons  or  in  the  tent  after  the  sun  went  down  ;  and  having 
cut  down  the  rafters  and  cupboards  of  the  Boer's  house  for  fuel,  they 
kindled  a  large  fire  in  the  kitchen,  where  they  took  up  their  quarters 
for  the  night. 

I  continued  hunting  here  until  the  29th,  when  I  deemed  it  high  time 
to  return  to  Colesberg,  for  the  purpose  of  packing  and  storing  my  curio- 
sities, increasing  my  establishment,  and  refitting  generally,  preparatory 
to  starting  for  the  distant  land  of  elephants  in  the  far  forests  of  the  in- 
terior. The  distemper  or  horse  sickness,  which  rages  in  those  parts 
during  the  summer  months,  might  be  expected  shortly  to  be  past,  there 
was  therefore  not  much  time  to  lose.  The  morning  was  spent  in  stow- 
ing the  waggons,  greasing  the  wheels,  securing  the  pots,  gridirons,  spades^ 
etc.,  and  overhauling  the  yokes,  rheims,  straps,  and  other  gear,  prepara- 
tory to  inspanning,  and  in  the  afternoon  we  inspanned,  and,  turning  our 
faces  to  the  south,  marched  upon  Colesberg. 

On  the  march  I  killed  two  springboks ;  and  having  proceeded  ten 
miles  we  halted  for  the  night.  It  rained  heavily  till  morning.  My 
oxen  were  in  fine  condition,  and  having  done  very  little  work  of  late, 
they  were  very  fresh  and  obstreperous.  On  the  following  day  we  crossed 
the  Riet  river.  The  country  was  very  heavy,  owing  to  the  recent  rains, 
and  some  of  my  gear,  which  was  rotten,  broke  repeatedly,  causing  much 
delay.  At  sundown  we  halted  at  a  lager,  or  encampment  of  Boers. 
Here  about  a  dozen  families  were  congregated  together  for  mutual  pro- 
tection. These  men  were  all  rebels  and  our  enemies,  being,  at  that  very 
moment,  at  war  with  our  allies,  the  Griquas  and  Bastards,  whom  we 
shortly  afterwards  assisted  against  the  Boers.  I  deemed  it  rather  a 
rash  step  thus  coolly  to  march  through  the  enemy's  country,  bearding 
as  it  were  the  lion  in  his  den.  There  was,  however,  no  help  for  it ;  so 
I  resolved  to  take  the  bull  by  the  horns,  and  put  on  a  bold  face.  The 
least  that  I  might  have  expected  was  to  have  my  waggons  most 
thoroughly  ransacked  and  plundered,  if  not  taken  from  me  altogether. 
This  they  would  certainly  have  done  if  they  had  thought  that  I  was  an 
Englishman  ;  but  by  saying  I  was  a  berg  Scot,  or  mountain  Scotsman, 
backed  by  the  garb  of  Old  Gaul,  which  I  always  wore,  I  convinced  them 
that  I  was  a  Scotsman.  Many  of  the  clergyman  among  the  Boers  being 
Scots,  they  entertain  a  predilection  for  my  countrymen. 

These  Boers  happened  to  be  short  of  coffee,  a  beverage  of  which  they 
are  extremely  fond.  I  had  fortunately  a  large  supply  in  my  waggons ; 
and  as  I  was  on  my  way  to  Colesberg,  I  had  no  objection  to  dispose  of 
it.  Accordingly,  by  presenting  the  ladies  of  the  leading  families  with 
a  few  half-pounds  of  coffee,  and  selling  them  the  remainder  of  my  stock 
at  a  moderate  price,  I  managed  to  secure  the  good  graces  of  the  whole, 


TROUBLES  BETWEEN  BOERS  AND  GRIQUAS.     107 

and  they  were  pleased  to  express  their  opinion  that  I  was  a  "ghooe 
carle,"  or  good  fellow.  On  hearing  that  a  few  days  previous  I  had 
bagged  a  savage  lioness,  and  on  beholding  her  trophies,  they  seemed 
quite  astonished,  remarking  to  one  another — 

"  Mi  scapsels  !  vat  zoorten  mens  is  de  ? "  signifying,  "  My  stars  and 
garters  !  what  sort  of  man  is  this  ? " 

In  the  course  of  the  evening  and  during  the  night  several  armed 
parties  of  Boers  halted  at  this  lager  to  refresh,  and  then  passed  on  to 
join  the  head-quarters  of  their  army,  which  was  encamped  about  forty 
miles  to  the  southward,  at  a  place  called  "  Schwart  Coppice."  Each  of 
these  Boers  was  provided  with  one  or  more  packhorses  bearing  his  com- 
missariat and  ammunition,  and  many  of  them  had  Hottentot  and  Bush- 
man after-riders.  Their  sole  weapon  consisted  of  their  roer  or  long  gun; 
each  wore  a  leathern  shooting-belt  round  his  waist,  and  a  large  bullock's 
horn  containing  powder  dangled  by  his  side. 

On  the  31st  I  continued  my  march,  and  on  the  evening  of  the  2nd  of 
April  I  reached  Philipolis,  a  missionary  station,  and  the  chief  town  of 
the  Bastards'  country.  My  road  had  led  between  the  encampments  of 
the  contending  parties.  Troops  of  mounted  Boers  had  been  scouring 
the  country  in  every  direction,  plundering  all  they  could  lay  their  hands 
on,  and  sweeping  off  the  cattle  and  horses  of  the  Bastards.  Halting  at 
an  encampment  of  Bastards  on  the  preceding  day,  I  was  much  amused 
by  their  taking  me  for  a  missionary.  My  costume  was  not  very  clerical, 
consisting  of  a  dirty  shirt  and  an  old  Gordon  tartan  kilt.  From  a  Bas- 
tard in  the  vicinity  of  Philipolis  I  obtained  two  large  rough  dogs,  in  ex- 
change for  three  pounds  of  coffee  and  a  little  tea.  The  names  of  these 
dogs  were  "Bles"  and  "Flam."  Bles  was  of  an  extremely  fierce  and 
savage  disposition.  On  the  evening  of  the  3rd  we  encamped  on  the 
northern  bank  of  the  mighty  Orange  River,  at  a  place  called  "Boata's 
Drift,"  which  is  nearly  opposite  Colesberg.  Our  march  had  been  through 
a  succession  of  mountains,  covered  with  excellent  pasture  to  their  sum- 
mits.    It  had  rained  heavily  throughout  the  day. 

After  inspecting  the  drift  or  ford  on  the  following  morning,  we  cal- 
culated that  the  river  was  too  high  for  the  waggons  to  cross  ;  and  by 
sending  a  man  over  on  horseback,  according  to  the  most  approved  cus- 
tom, we  ascertained  that  a  passage  for  the  waggons  was  impracticable.  I 
accordingly  instructed  my  men  to  proceed  to  Norval's  Punt,  situated  a 
long  march  higher  up  the  river,  there  to  cross  and  join  me  in  Colesberg 
on  the  evening  of  the  following  day ;  and  having  breakfasted,  I  saddled 
"The  Immense  Brute,"  and,  taking  the  ford  high  up,  I  managed  to  cross 
the  river  in  safety,  the  current  having  twice  taken  my  horse  off  his  legs. 
In  two  hours  I  entered  the  village  of  Colesberg,  where  I  found  the 
officers  of  the  91st  and  all  my  other  friends  in  great  force. 

My  waggons  did  not  make  their  appearance  in  Colesberg  until  the 
afternoon  of  the  third  day.  I  took  up  my  quarters  with  my  old  friend 
Mr.  Paterson,  who  also  kindly  accommodated  the  half  of  my  stud  in  his 
stables,  and  the  other  half  I  picketed  in  the  stables  of  my  old  regiment 
the  Cape  Mounted  Rifles.  My  oxen  I  permitted  to  run  day  and  night 
in  the  neighbouring  mountains.  On  the  7th  we  off  loaded  the  waggons, 
and  made  a  grand  parade  of  my  heads  and  hunting  trophies  in  front  of 


108     HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

Paterson's  house,  which  was  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  village  :  this 
attracted  crowds  of  persons  throughout  the  day.  In  the  afternoon  of 
the  8th,  Mr.  Rawstorne,  the  resident  magistrate,  received  despatches 
from  Adam  Kok,  chief  of  the  Bastards,  stating  that  the  Boers  had  com- 
menced active  hostilities,  and  craving  assistance  from  government.  Ac- 
cordingly, in  the  evening  an  order  was  issued  that  all  the  available  force 
in  the  garrison  should  march  upon  the  Orange  River  next  day.  This  I 
considered  an  intense  bore,  as  I  should  thereby  lose  the  society  of  all 
my  friends.  On  the  following  morning  all  was  bustle  and  preparation 
throughout  the  village,  the  military  preparing  for  the  march,  and  the 
merchants  loading  up  their  waggons  with  commissariat  for  the  supply 
of  the  troops,  while  many  a  dark-eyed  nymph  wiped  the  hot  tear  from 
her  expressive  eye,  and  heaved  a  deep-drawn  sigh  as  she  reflected  on 
the  absence  of  her  lover  and  the  casualties  of  war. 

At  half  past  twelve  the  men  mustered  on  the  parade-ground,  and 
marched  out  of  the  village  for  Alleman's  Drift.  Paterson  politely  re- 
quested me  to  occupy  his  quarters  as  long  as  I  remained  in  Colesberg, 
and  not  to  spare  his  cellar,  which  contained  most  excellent  wine.  On 
the  following  day,  while  actively  employed  in  forwarding  my  affairs,  a 
friend  informed  me  that  all  my  oxen  were  safely  lodged  in  the  skit- 
kraal,  or  pound,  from  which  I  released  them,  after  a  deal  of  trouble  and 
annoyance,  by  a  small  pecuniary  disbursement.  In  the  evening  the  vil- 
lage was  agitated  by  a  report  that  a  skirmish  had  taken  place  between 
the  Boers  and  the  Bastards,  in  which  several  had  fallen  on  both  sides, 
and  that  it  was  the  intention  of  the  Boers  to  pillage  Colesberg.  On  the 
15th,  in  company  with  Messrs.  Gibbon  and  Draper,  two  merchants  of 
Colesberg,  I  rode  out  to  visit  my  friends  of  the  91st,  who  were  en- 
camped at  Alleman's  Drift,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  At  this  spot 
the  Orange  River  and  the  surrounding  scenery  are  very  beautiful,  re- 
minding me  of  Highland  scenery.  At  one  bold  sweep  of  the  river  the 
waters  are  hemmed  in  by  stupendous  granite-rocks,  which  cause  a  deep 
and  sweeping  rapid.  Below  are  long  deep  pools,  enclosed  by  banks 
adorned  with  drooping  willows  and  everlasting  verdure. 

I  found  my  friends  the  military  employed,  according  to  the  most  ap- 
proved system  in  the  army,  luxuriating  in  brandy  and  cheroots.  The 
privates,  availing  themselves  of  the  proximity  of  the  river,  were  enjoy- 
ing the  recreations  of  angling  and  dragging  the  river  with  nets.  They 
captured  lots  of  mullet  and  barbel,  averaging  from  one  to  four  pounds 
in  weight. 

A  party  of  artillery  and  a  detachment  of  the  7th  Dragoon  Guards 
were  reported  en  route  from  Fort  Beaufort,  to  assist  the  91st  in  their 
operations  against  the  Boers.  Skirmishes  were  daily  occurring  between 
the  belligerents  on  the  opposite  side,  and  expresses  from  Adam  Kok 
were  continually  arriving  in  camp,  soliciting  assistance.  The  manner  in 
which  these  skirmishes  were  conducted  was  very  amusing,  and  illustra- 
tive of  the  high  courage  of  the  contending  parties.  Every  day,  having 
breakfasted,  the  Boers  and  Bastards  were  in  the  habit  of  meeting  and 
peppering  away  at  one  another  till  the  afternoon,  when  each  party  re- 
turned to  its  respective  encampment.  The  distance  at  which  they  stood 
from  one  another  might  be  somewhere  above  a  couple  of  miles,  and  they 


A    NEW    FIT-OUT.  109 

fired  at  one  another  peeping  over  ranges  of  coppice  or  low  rocky  hills, 
while  large  herds  of  springboks  and  wildebeests  kept  quietly  pasturing 
on  the  goreless  field  of  battle  between  them. 

Some  of  these  neutrals,  I  was  informed,  occasionally  fell  before  the 
hissing  balls  of  the  redoubted  warriors.  Before  dismissing  the  subject 
of  the  rebellion  of  '45,  I  may  state  that  soon  after  this,  the  91st  and 
Cape  Corps  men  being  reinforced  with  a  party  of  artillery  and  a  detach- 
ment of  the  7th  Dragoon  Guards,  they  crossed  the  Orange  River,  and 
advanced  upon  the  Boers'  position  by  forced  marches,  when  the  Boers 
were  charged  by  the  dragoons,  and  put  to  flight,  and  their  waggons  and 
commissariat  fell  into  our  hands.  On  this  occasion  the  Boers  had  two 
pieces  of  ordnance,  of  which  they  were  supposed  to  have  obtained  pos- 
session some  years  previously  at  Port  Natal.  Over  one  of  these  presided 
a  Frenchman  of  low  stature;  and  while  little  Monsieur  was  actively  em- 
ployed in  ramming  down  one  of  their  home-made  ball,  which  were  con- 
structed of  lead,  a  Cape  Corps  man  ran  up,  and  sent  a  bullet  through 
the  centre  of  his  skull.  Thus  ended  the  memorable  battle  of  Schwart 
Coppice  ;  and  since  that  time  the  valorous  Bastards  have  been  loud  in 
their  own  praises,  declaring  that  "  they  are  the  boys  to  put  the  Boers 
up  to  the  time  o'  day." 

On  the  forenoon  of  the  16th  I  rode  through  the  river  to  visit  a  gentle- 
man of  the  name  of  Bain,  who  was  then  living  on  one  of  Mr.  Fossey's 
farms.  Mr.  Bain  had  made  several  trips  into  the  interior,  and  gave  me 
much  valuable  information  and  dazzling  accounts  of  the  sport  I  might 
expect.  He  recommended  my  trekking  down  the  Orange  River  to  a 
drift  near  Rhama,  and  thence  proceeding  by  Campbellsdorp  to  Kuru- 
man,  a  missionary  station,  distant  from  Colesberg  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  where  I  should  obtain  a  Bechuana  interpreter,  and  all 
necessary  information  from  the  resident  missionary.  On  the  following 
day,  having  taken  leave  of  my  kind  friends  and  brother  sportsmen,  I 
rode  into  Colesberg.  Here  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  two  Nimrods, 
Messrs.  Murray  and  Oswell,  proceeding,  like  myself,  on  a  hunting  expe- 
dition into  the  far  interior — the  former  a  keen  salmon  fisher  from  the 
banks  of  Tay  ;  the  latter  a  civilian  in  the  Honourable  East  India  Com- 
pany's service.  During  my  stay  in  Colesberg  I  was  actively  employed 
storing  my  collection  and  refitting.  All  my  specimens  were  carefully 
sewn  up  in  canvas,  and  nailed  down  in  cases ;  and  perishable  articles, 
such  as  skins  and  stuffed  heads,  were  heremetically  sealed,  being  care- 
fully soldered  up  in  tin  cases  by  old  Mr.  Privet,  the  tinsmith,  one  of 
the  leading  members  of  the  community  of  Colesberg. 

I  covered  my  waggons  with  new  sails,  and  had  the  wheels  and  iron- 
work carefully  overhauled  by  the  blacksmith.  I  purchased  from  various 
parties  several  excellent  horses  and  trek-oxen,  and  increased  my  kennel 
of  dogs  to  twelve  stout,  rough,  serviceable-looking  curs.  From  Mr. 
Williams  of  the  commissariat  I  purchased  a  large  elephant-gun,  carrying 
four  to  the  pound.  I  engaged  two  additional  Hottentots,  named  Johan- 
nus  and  Kleinf eldt,  and  replenished  my  supplies  in  every  department ; 
and  on  the  22nd,  everything  being  ready,  I  resolved,  if  possible,  to  get 
under  way  that  afternoon.  With  inconceivable  trouble  I  managed  to 
collect  all  my  runaway  men,  dogs,  oxen,  and  horses  together ;  and, 


110  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

after  much  bustle  and  angry  altercation  with  my  inebriated  and 
swarthy  crew,  my  caravan  was  in  motion,  and  started  on  its  distant 
journey. 

We  were  followed  by  the  female  acquaintances  of  our  Hottentots, 
screaming,  yelling,  and  cursing  at  their  men,  at  the  same  time  catching 
up  handfuls  of  red  dust,  which  they  tossed  into  the  air  with  true  Hot- 
tentot action.  Having  no  hair  fortunately  to  rend,  they  contented  them- 
selves with  scratching  their  woolly  pates  and  rending  their  petticoats, 
which  they  soon  reduced  to  tatters.  Among  other  articles  with  which 
I  loaded  up  while  in  Colesberg  was  a  number  of  common  muskets,  which 
had  been  represented  to  me  as  being  the  most  available  to  barter  for 
ivory  with  the  tribes  of  the  far  interior.  These  I  afterwards  turned  to 
good  account,  and  regretted  that  I  did  not  possess  ten  times  as  many 
of  them.  As  it  was  .not  improbable  that,  in  the  event  of  my  encamping 
too  near  to  Colesberg  that  evening,  my  followers  would  avail  themselves 
of  the  opportunity  to  levant  under  cover  of  night,  and  return  to  the 
embraces  of  their  wives  and  sweethearts,  I  made  up  my  mind,  having 
once  succeeded  in  setting  them  in  motion,  to  give  them  a  good  spell  of 
it;  and  accordingly,  there  being  good  moonlight,  I  did  not  permit  them 
to  outspan  until  after  midnight. 

I  held  a  westerly  course,  steering  for  the  Saltpan's  Drift,  about  four 
days'  journey  down  the  Orange  River,  where  I  intended  crossing.  By 
adopting  this  course  I  avoided  the  hostile  Eoers,  who  were  scouring  the 
country  across  the  river  immediately  opposite  to  Colesberg. 

On  the  fourth  day  I  reached  Saltpan's  Drift,  which  I  crossed  with 
considerable  difficulty,  the  waggons  repeatedly  sticking  fast  in  the  deep 
sand.  The  opposite  bank  was  extremely  steep,  and  required  an  hour's 
cutting  with  our  pickaxes  and  shovels.  We  passed  the  farms  of  several 
Boers,  from  whom  I  purchased  three  excellent  dogs,  named  "Wolf," 
"Prince,''  and  " Bonteberg."  On  one  of  these  farms  were  half-a-dozen 
ostriches,  which  the  Boer  endeavoured  to  persuade  me  to  purchase. 
Continuing  our  march,  on  the  28th  we  passed  through  the  Griqua  kraal 
named  Rhama.  In  the  morning,  on  proceeding  to  rouse  my  men,  I  dis- 
covered Kleinboy  very  coolly  smoking  his  pipe  over  my  loose,  dilapi- 
dated powder-casks ;  upon  which  I  seized  the  culprit,  and  handled  him 
rather  roughly.  This  so  disgusted  my  friend  that  he  dashed  his  pipe 
on  the  ground  with  true  Hottentot  action,  and  swore  he  would  go  no 
farther  with  me.  The  appearance,  however,  of  a  fine  fat  sheep,  which 
I  purchased  a  few  minutes  after  from  a  Griqua,  induced  Mr.  Kleinboy 
to  alter  his  mind  on  the  subject,  and  he  sulkily  returned  to  his  duty. 

On  the  4th  of  May  we  made  the  fair  Vaal  River,  which  we  crossed  at 
my  old  drift.  Here  a  party  of  Korannas  rode  up  to  the  waggons, 
mounted  on  pack-oxen.  The  bridles  consisted  of  thongs  attached  to 
sticks  passed  through  a  hole  in  the  animals'  noses,  and  the  saddle  was  a 
sheepskin  secured  with  a  thong  across  the  back.  In  the  evening  we 
trekked  half  way  to  Campbellsdorp.  On  the  march  my  dogs  killed  two 
fine  porcupines,  by  tearing  off  their  heads,  the  only  vulnerable  part,  but 
getting  at  the  same  time  their  own  noses  and  shoulders  full  of  the  quills. 
On  the  following  day  we  passed  through  Campbellsdorp,  where  I  was 


HOTTENTOTS    REBELLIOUS.  Ill 

kindly  welcomed  by  Mr.  Bartlett,  the  resident  missionary,  from  whom 
I  received  a  liberal  present  of  bread  and  vegetables. 

On  the  third  day  after  leaving  Campbellsdorp  we  reached  Daniel's 
Kuil,  a  krall  of  Griquas  under  Waterboer.  The  country  through  which 
we  passed  was  level  and  uninteresting,  no  hill  nor  landmark  relieving 
the  ocean-like  expanse  and  sameness  of  the  scene  in  any  direction.  In 
parts  the  country  was  covered  as  far  as  I  could  see  with  a  species  of 
bush,  averaging  about  nine  feet  in  height,  having  a  grey  leaf  and 
bunches  of  small  grey  blossoms,  yielding  a  very  sweet  and  powerful 
aromatic  perfume.  In  the  evening  we  continued  our  march  to  Kramer's 
Fonteyn,  a  very  powerful  fountain,  whose  waters  issue  hot  from  the 
earth,  as  if  they  were  mixed  with  boiling  water.  Leaving  Kramer's 
Fonteyn  on  the  9th,  we  held  for  Koning,  a  very  distant  water  on  the 
road  to  Kuruman.  Towards  midnight  my  men  commenced  driving 
furiously,  and  I  ascertained  that  they  were  under  the  influence  of 
liquor,  which  I  imagined  they  had  obtained  from  the  Griquas.  On 
ordering  them  to  halt  and  outspan,  Mr.  Kleinboy  only  drove  the  harder, 
so  I  found  it  necessary  to  send  him  flying  off  the  box. 

A  short  time  after  I  had  been  asleep  I  was  wakened  by  a  commotion 
amongst  my  cattle,  and  found  that  my  men  had  commenced  inspanning 
the  oxen,  stating  that  they  intended  to  proceed  no  farther,  but  to  return 
with  the  waggons  to  the  colony.  Finding  remonstrance  vain,  I  had 
recourse  to  my  double-barrelled  rifle,  upon  which  my  followers  for  the 
moment  relinquished  their  intention  of  inspanning,  and,  retiring  to  the 
shelter  of  a  neighbouring  bush,  they  shortly  fell  asleep.  I  kept  sentry 
over  the  waggons  during  the  remainder  of  the  night,  with  my  rifle  in 
my  hand  and  a  hatchet  by  my  side.  At  dawn  of  day  on  the  following 
morning  I  roused  my  ruffians,  and  ordered  them  to  inspan,  which  orders 
they  mechanically  obeyed,  swearing,  however,  that  this  was  the  last 
time  they  would  inspan  my  oxen. 

Having  proceeded  about  ten  miles,  we  arrived  at  Koning  :  this  was  a 
vley  of  fine  spring-water,  about  six  hundred  yards  in  length,  densely 
covered  with  lofty  reeds  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  high.  This  place  is 
said  never  to  be  without  lions.  Here  was  spoor  of  zebras  and  harte- 
beests.  In  the  afternoon  I  observed  that  my  men  were  again  in  liquor. 
I  had  at  first  imagined  that  the  Griquas  had  supplied  them  with  brandy, 
but  upon  examining  my  liquor-case  1  discovered  that  one  had  been 
broken  into  and  two  bottles  of  brandy  stolen.  This  was  a  second  night 
of  anxiety  and  trouble.  I  kept  watch  over  my  goods  and  cattle,  with 
my  rifle  in  my  hand,  till  morning.  The  night  was  piercingly  cold,  and 
in  the  morning  the  ground  was  white  with  hoar-frost,  and  a  thick  coat- 
ing of  ice  covered  the  pools  of  water.  At  midday  on  the  11th  we  left 
Koning,  and  continued  our  march  to  Kuruman,  halting  at  sundown 
without  water. 

On  our  left  our  view  was  bounded  by  the  Kamhanni  Mountains,  an 
extensive  rocky  chain.  In  every  other  direction  a  vast  endless  plain 
extended  as  far  as  the  eye  could  strain.  The  plains  were  covered  with 
rank  yellow  grass,  interspersed  with  clumps  of  grey-leaved  bushes. 
Shortly  before  outspanning  we  started  three  leopards  that  were  consum- 
ing a  duiker.      Throughout  all  this  country  game  was  very  scarce. 


112  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

Since  crossing  the  Vaal,  with  the  exception  of  feathered  game,  I  had 
shot  only  one  springbok  and  one  steinbok. 

On  the  following  day  we  reached  Kuruman,  or  New  Litakoo,  a  lovely 
green  spot  in  the  wilderness,  strongly  contrasting  with  the  sterile  and 
inhospitable  regions  by  which  it  is  surrounded.  I  was  here  kindly 
welcomed  and  hospitably  entertained  by  Mr.  Moffat  and  Mr.  Hamilton, 
both  missionaries  of  the  London  Society,  and  also  by  Mr.  Hume,  an  old 
trader,  long  resident  at  Kuruman.  The  gardens  at  Kuruman  are  exten- 
sive and  extremely  fertile.  Besides  corn  and  vegetables  they  contained 
a  great  variety  of  fruits,  amongst  which  were  vines,  peach-trees,  necta- 
rines, apple,  orange,  and  lemon  trees,  all  of  which  in  their  seasons  bear 
a  profusion  of  the  most  delicious  fruit.  These  gardens  are  irrigated 
with  the  most  liberal  supply  of  water  from  a  powerful  fountain  which 
gushes  forth,  at  once  forming  a  little  river,  from  a  subterraneous  cave, 
which  has  several  low  narrow  mouths,  but  within  is  lofty  and  extensive. 
This  cave  is  stated  by  the  natives  to  extend  to  a  very  great  distance 
under  ground. 

The  natives  about  Kuruman  and  the  surrounding  districts  generally 
embrace  the  Christian  religion.  Mr.  Moffat  kindly  showed  me  through 
his  printing  establishment,  church,  and  school-rooms,  which  were  lofty 
and  well  built,  and  altogether  on  a  scale  which  would  not  have  dis- 
graced one  of  the  towns  of  the  more  enlightened  colony.  It  was  Mr. 
Moffat  who  reduced  the  Bechuana  language  to  writing  and  printing ; 
since  which  he  has  printed  thousands  of  Sichuana  Testaments,  as  also 
tracts  and  hymns,  which  were  now  eagerly  purchased  by  the  converted 
natives.  Mr.  Moffat  is  a  person  admirably  calculated  to  excel  in  his 
important  calling.  Together  with  a  noble  and  athletic  frame,  he 
possesses  a  face  on  which  forbearance  and  Christian  charity  are  very 
plainly  written,  and  his  mental  and  bodily  attainments  are  great. 
Minister,  gardener,  blacksmith,  gunsmith,  mason,  carpenter,  glazier — 
every  hour  of  the  day  finds  this  worthy  pastor  engaged  in  some  useful 
employment — setting,  by  his  own  exemplary  piety  and  industrious 
habits,  a  good  example  to  others  to  go  and  do  likewise. 

Mr.  Moffat  informed  me  that  a  missionary  named  Dr.  Livingstone, 
who  was  married  to  his  eldest  daughter,  had  lately  established  a  mission- 
ary station  among  the  Bakatlas  at  Mabotsa,  in  the  vale  of  Bakatla,  about 
fourteen  days'  journey  to  the  north-east.  Thither  he  recommended  me 
at  once  to  proceed,  as  few  of  the  larger  varieties  of  game  could  now  be 
expected  to  be  found  to  the  southward  of  Bakatla.  He  represented  to 
me  that  my  falling  in  with  elephants,  even  throughout  the  vast  forests 
in  the  country  immediately  beyond  Bakatla,  was  very  uncertain,  and 
recommended  me,  if  I  was  determined  to  have  good  elephant-shooting, 
to  endeavour  to  push  on  to  the  remote  and  endless  forests  beyond  the 
mountains  of  Bamangwato,  in  the  territory  of  Sicomy,  the  great  and 
paramount  chief  of  the  extensive  country  of  the  Bamangwato.  There 
would  also  be  a  probability  of  obtaining  ivory  in  barter  from  Sicomy, 
he  being  reported  to  possess  large  quantities  of  that  valuable  commo- 
dity. By  Mr.  Moffat's  assistance  I  engaged  a  Bechuana  in  the  capacity 
of  interpreter  in  the  Dutch  and  Sichuana  languages.     From  Mr.  Hume 


FEASTING    ON    LOCUSTS.  113 


I  purchased  a  supply  of  wheat,  and  on  the  following  day  I  set  all  my 
people  to  work  on  a  mill  of  Mr.  Moffat's  to  reduce  this  wheat  to  flour. 

On  the  15th  I  took  leave  of  my  friends  at  Kuruman,  and  continued 
my  journey  in  a  north-easterly  course  through  a  heavy  sandy  country 
of  boundless  level  plains,  stretching  away  on  every  side,  covered  with 
rank  yellow  grass,  which,  waving  in  the  breeze,  imparted  the  idea  of 
endless  fields  of  ripe  corn.  At  sundown  we  crossed  the  Matluarin 
river,  an  insignificant  stream,  and  encamped  on  its  northern  bank.  On 
the  march  we  saw  a  few  blue  wildebeests  and  ostriches.  At  dawn  of 
day  on  the  following  morning  we  pursued  our  journey  through  the  same 
description  of  country,  varied  however  with  detached  clumps  of  thorny 
mimosas.  On  the  march  we  crossed  a  swarm  of  locusts,  resting  for  the 
night  on  the  grass  and  bushes.  They  lay  so  thick  that  the  waggons 
could  have  been  filled  with  them  in  a  very  short  time,  covering  the 
large  bushes  just  as  a  swarm  of  young  bees  covers  the  branch  on  which 
it  pitches.  Locusts  afford  fattening  and  wholesome  food  to  man,  birds, 
and  all  sorts  of  beasts ;  cows  and  horses,  lions,  jackals,  hyaenas,  ante- 
lopes, elephants,  etc.,  devour  them.  We  met  a  party  of  Batlapis  carry- 
ing heavy  burdens  of  them  on  their  backs.  Our  hungry  dogs  made  a 
fine  feast  on  them.  The  cold  frosty  night  had  rendered  them  unable  to 
take  wing  until  the  sun  should  restore  their  powers.  As  it  was  difficult 
to  obtaiu  sufficient  food  for  my  dogs,  I  and  Isaac  took  a  large  blanket, 
which  we  spread  under  a  bush,  whose  branches  were  bent  to  the  ground 
with  the  mass  of  locusts  which  covered  it ;  and  having  shaken  the 
branches,  in  an  instant  I  had  more  locusts  than  I  could  carry  on  my 
back  :  these  we  roasted  for  ourselves  and  dogs. 

Soon  after  the  sun  was  up,  on  looking  behind  me,  I  beheld  the  locusts 
stretching  to  the  west  in  vast  clouds,  resembling  smoke ;  but  the  wind, 
soon  after  veering  round,  brought  them  back  to  us,  and  they  flew  over 
our  heads,  for  some  time  actually  darkening  the  sun.  In  the  evening  I 
continued  my  march  by  moonlight,  and  halted  within  a  few  miles  of 
Motito,  an  extensive  kraal  of  the  Batlapis,  a  tribe  of  Bechuanas.  The 
nights  were  piercing  cold,  the  grass  being  every  morning  covered  with 
white  frost. 


CHAPTER  XL 


Motito — The  Bechuana  Tribes — The  mysterious  great  inland  Lake — Blesbok  and 
Wildebeest  abundant — Park-like  Country — We  arrive  at  the  beautiful  Vale  of 
Bakatla — Dr.  Livingstone  the  Missionary — Native  Fashions  at  Church — Deter- 
mine to  push  on  to  Bamangwato — The  Natives  follow  me  for  Venison — Great 
Variety  of  Game — A  dangerous  Fight  with  a  herd  of  Buffaloes,  two  of  which 
are  slain — A  Colony  of  Baboons — A  Rhinoceros  chases  me  round  a  Bush — 
Habits  of  the  Beast — A  noble  Eland  killed — An  impromptu  Steak—Slay  a 
Rhinoceros,  and  lose  my  way  in  the  Forest. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  17th  I  outspanned  at  Motito,  where  I  was 
kindly  received  by  Monsieur  Loga  and  Mr.  Edwards,  the  former  a 
French  missionary  stationed  at  Motito,  and  the  latter  an  English  mis- 
sionary from  Mabotza.  Another  French  missionary,  named  Monsieur 
Lemue,  belonging  to  the  station,  was  absent.      The  women  at  Motito 


114  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

wear  heavier  ornaments  of  beads  than  any  with  whom  I  am  acquainted. 
As  I  have  now  reached  the  southern  borders  of  that  vast  tract  of 
Southern  Africa  inhabited  by  the  numerous  tribes  of  the  Bechuanas,  it 
will  be  necessary,  before  proceeding  further,  to  give  a  sketch  of  their 
manners  and  customs. 

They  are  a  lively  and  intelligent  race  of  people,  and  remarkable  for 
their  good  humour  :  they  are  well  formed,  if  not  starved  in  infancy. 
They  possess  pleasing  features  and  very  fine  eyes  and  teeth ;  their  hair 
is  short  and  woolly  ;  the  colour  of  their  complexion  is  of  a  light  copper. 
The  various  tribes  live  in  kraals,  or  villages,  of  various  sizes,  along  with 
their  respective  chiefs.  Their  wigwams  are  built  in  a  circular  form,  and 
thatched  with  long  grass ;  the  floor  and  wall,  inside  and  out,  are 
plastered  with  a  compound  of  clay  and  cow-dung.  The  entrances  are 
about  three  feet  high  and  two  feet  broad.  Each  wigwam  is  surrounded 
with  a  hedge  of  wickerwork,  while  one  grand  hedge  of  wait-a-bit  thorns 
surrounds  the  entire  kraal,  protecting  the  inmates  from  lions  and  other 
animals. 

The  dress  of  the  men  consists  of  a  kaross,  or  skin  cloak,  which  hangs 
gracefully  from  their  shoulders ;  and  another  garment,  termed  tsecha, 
which  encircles  their  loins,  and  is  likewise  made  of  skin.  On  their  feet 
they  wear  a  simple  sandal  formed  of  the  skin  of  the  buffalo  or  camelo- 
pard.  On  their  legs  and  arms  they  carry  ornaments  of  brass  and  copper 
of  different  patterns,  which  are  manufactured  by  themselves.  The  men 
also  wear  a  few  ornaments  of  beads  round  their  necks  and  on  their 
arms.  Around  their  necks,  besides  beads,  they  carry  a  variety  of  other 
appendages,  the  majority  of  which  are  believed  to  possess  a  powerful 
charm  to  preserve  them  from  evil.  One  of  these  is  a  small  hollow  bone, 
through  which  they  blow  when  in  peril ;  another  is  a  set  of  dice  formed 
of  ivory,  which  they  rattle  in  their  hands  and  cast  on  the  ground  to 
ascertain  if  they  are  to  be  lucky  in  any  enterprise  in  which  they  may 
be  about  to  engage ;  also  a  host  of  bits  of  root  and  bark  which  are  medi- 
cinal. From  their  necks  also  depend  gourd  snuff-boxes  made  of  an 
extremely  diminutive  species  of  pumpkin,  trained  to  grow  in  a  bottle- 
like shape. 

They  never  move  without  their  arms,  which  consist  of  a  shield,  a 
bundle  of  assagais,  a  battle-axe,  and  a  knobkerry.  The  shields  are 
formed  of  the  hide  of  the  buffalo  or  camelopard ;  their  shape  among 
some  tribes  is  oval,  among  others  round.  The  assagai  is  a  sort  of  light 
spear  or  javelin,  having  a  wooden  shaft  about  six  feet  in  length  attached 
to  it.  Some  of  these  are  formed  solely  for  throwing,  and  a  skilful 
warrior  will  send  one  through  a  man's  body  at  one  hundred  yards.  An- 
other variety  of  assagai  is  formed  solely  for  stabbing.  The  blades  of 
these  are  stouter,  and  the  shafts  shorter  and  thicker,  than  the  other 
variety.  They  are  found  mostly  among  the  tribes  very  far  in  the 
interior.  Their  battle-axes  are  elegantly  formed,  consisting  of  a 
triangular-shaped  blade,  fastened  in  a  handle  formed  of  the  horn  of  the 
rhinoceros.  The  men  employ  their  time  in  war  and  hunting,  and  in 
dressing  the  skins  of  wild  animals.  The  dress  of  the  women  consists  of 
a  kaross  depending  from  the  shoulders,  and  a  short  kilt  formed  of  the 
skin  of  the  pallah,  or  some  other  antelope.     Around  their  necks,  arms, 


THE    SOCIAL    GROSBEAK.  115 


waists,  and  ankles  they  wear  large  and  cumbrous  coils  of  beads  of  a 
variety  of  colours,  tastefully  arranged  in  different  patterns. 

The  women  chiefly  employ  their  time  in  cultivating  their  fields  and 
gardens,  in  which  they  rear  corn,  pumpkins,  and  water-melons ;  and 
likewise  in  harvesting  their  crops  and  grinding  their  corn.  Both  men  and 
women  go  bareheaded  :  they  anoint  their  heads  with  "sibelo,"  a  shining 
composition,  being  a  mixture  of  fat  and  a  grey  sparkling  ore,  having  the 
appearance  of  mica.  Some  of  the  tribes  besmear  their  bodies  with  a 
mixture  of  fat  and  red  clay,  imparting  to  them  the  appearance  of  Red 
Indians.  Most  of  the  tribes  possess  cattle  ;  these  are  attended  to  and 
milked  solely  by  the  men,  a  woman  being  never  allowed  to  set  foot 
within  the  cattle-kraal.  Polygamy  is  allowed,  and  any  man  may  keep 
as  many  wives  as  he  pleases :  the  wife,  however,  has  in  the  first  instance 
to  be  purchased. 

Among  tribes  possessed  of  cattle  the  price  of  a  wife  is  ten  head  of 
cattle  ;  but  among  the  poorer  tribes  a  wife  may  be  obtained  for  a  few 
spades  with  which  they  cultivate  their  fields.  These  spades,  which  are 
manufactured  by  themselves,  are  fastened  in  the  end  of  a  long  shaft, 
and  are  used  as  our  labourers  use  the  hoe.  Rows  of  women  may  be 
seen  digging  together  in  the  fields  singing  songs,  to  which  they  keep 
time  with  their  spades. 

The  name  of  the  chief  at  Motito  was  Motchuara,  a  subordinate  of  the 
great  chief  Mahura.  He  was  very  anxious  that  I  should  remain  a  day 
with  him,  for  the  purpose  of  trading  in  ostrich-feathers  and  karosses  ; 
but  being  anxious  to  push  forward,  I  resumed  my  march  in  the  after- 
noon, and  trekked  on  till  near  midnight,  when  I  encamped  in  an  exten- 
sive forest  of  grey  and  ancient-looking  cameeldorn  trees.  These  were 
the  finest  I  had  yet  seen  in  Africa,  each  tree  assuming  a  wide-spreading 
and  picturesque  appearance.  They  were  detached  and  in  groups,  like 
oaks  in  an  English  deer-park.  Many  of  them  were  inhabited  by  whole 
colonies  of  the  social  grosbeak,  a  bird  with  whose  wonderful  habitations 
the  branches  were  loaded.  These  remarkable  birds,  which  are  about  the 
size  and  appearance  of  the  British  greenfinch,  construct  their  nests  and 
live  socially  together  under  one  common  roof,  the  whole  fabric  being 
formed  of  dry  grass,  and  exhibiting  at  a  short  distance  the  appearance 
of  a  haycock  stuck  up  in  the  tree.  The  entrances  to  the  nests  are  from 
beneath.  They  are  built  side  by  side,  and  when  seen  from  below 
resemble  a  honeycomb. 

At  dawn  of  day  on  the  following  morning  we  continued  our  march 
through  the  venerable  cameel-dorn  forest.  The  road  was  extremely 
heavy,  consisting  of  soft  loose  sand.  Having  proceeded  about  six  miles, 
emerging  from  the  forest,  we  entered  once  more  on  a  wide-spreading 
open  country,  covered  in  some  parts  with  bushes,  and  in  others  only 
with  grass.  Another  hour  brought  us  to  Little  Ohooi,  a  large  saltpan, 
where  we  obtained  water  for  ourselves  and  cattle  from  a  deep  pit  made 
by  men.     In  sight  were  a  few  zebras,  ostriches,  and  springboks. 

In  the  forenoon  a  number  of  cattle,  belonging  to  Mahura,  came  to 
drink  at  the  pit.  Some  of  these  carried  enormous  wide-spreading  horns. 
Mahura  and  his  tribe  possess  immense  herds  of  cattle,  the  majority  of 
which  they  "  lifted  "  or  obtained  in  war  from  other  Bechuana  tribes. 


116   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


Some  years  before  this,  Mahura,  assisted  by  another  tribe,  had  attacked 
Sobiqua,  king  of  the  Bawangketse,  a  tribe  inhabiting  the  borders  of  the 
great  Kalahari  desert,  whom  they  routed,  and  succeeded  in  driving  off 
the  majority  of  their  vast  herds.  Upon  this,  Sobiqua  and  his  tribe  fled 
with  the  remainder  of  the  cattle  across  a  portion  of  the  desert  to  the 
westward,  and  for  some  years  located  themselves  on  the  borders  of  a 
vast  inland  lake.  This  mysterious  lake  the  natives  in  the  vale  of 
Bakatla  state  to  be  situated  due  west  from  their  position ;  while  the 
natives  of  Bamangwato,  situated  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the 
northward,  always  pointed  out  to  me  the  north-west  as  its  position. 
They  represented  to  me  that  the  natives  on  its  banks  were  possessed  of 
canoes;  that  its  waters  were  salt;  and  that  every  day  the  waters  retired 
to  feed,  and  again  returned,  by  which  I  understood  that  this  lake,  what- 
ever it  may  be,  is  affected  by  some  tide. 

At  three  P.M.  we  inspanned,  and  held  on  till  midnight  with  fine  moon- 
light, crossing  a  desert  and  sandy  country.  In  the  vicinity  of  Chooi  we 
passed  an  extensive  range  of  old  pitfalls,  formed  by  the  natives  for  en- 
trapping game.  They  were  dug  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  and  occupied 
an  extent  of  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  On  the  march  I  observed  some 
enormous  trunks  of  trees  that  had  been  destroyed  by  fire  in  bygone 
years.  On  the  following  day  we  reached  Loharon,  an  uninteresting  and 
desolate  spot,  where  we  encamped  for  the  day  beside  a  pool  of  rain- 
water. Here  I  observed  a  few  hartebeests,  sassaybys,  and  zebras.  On 
the  20th,  having  breakfasted,  we  inspanned,  and  continued  our  march 
till  sunset.  We  passed  through  a  very  level  country,  covered  with  de- 
tached bushes.  The  dulness  of  the  scene,  however,  was  enlivened  by  a 
wondrous  flight  of  locusts,  the  largest  I  had  ever  beheld.  The  prospect 
was  obscured  by  them  as  far  as  we  could  see,  resembling  the  smoke 
arising  from  a  thousand  giant  bonfires ;  while  those  above  our  heads 
darkened  our  path  with  a  double  flight — the  one  next  the  ground  flying 
north,  while  the  upper  clouds  of  them  held  a  southerly  course.  The 
dogs,  as  usual,  made  a  hearty  meal  on  them. 

We  continued  our  march  by  moonlight,  halting  at  midnight  in  a  vast 
open  plain  beside  a  small  pool  of  rain-water.  After  breakfast  I  rode 
forth  in  quest  of  springboks,  of  which  I  bagged  a  couple.  I  fell  in  with 
blue  and  black  wildebeests,  zebras,  ostriches,  and  blesboks.  The  plains 
here  were  bare  and  open,  resembling  the  country  frequented  by  the 
blesboks  to  the  southward  of  the  Vaal,  with  which  country  I  subse- 
quently ascertained  it  to  be  connected,  in  a  due  southerly  course,  by  an 
endless  succession  of  similar  bare  plains,  throughout  the  entire  extent  of 
which  the  blesbok  and  black  wildebeest  are  abundant.  While  galloping 
after  a  herd  of  zebras,  "  The  Immense  Brute  "  put  his  foot  into  a  hole, 
and  came  down  with  great  violence  on  his  head,  pitching  me  over  his 
bows.  I  saved  my  rifle  at  the  risk  of  sacrificing  my  collar-bone ;  and 
would  have  escaped  without  further  injury  than  the  loss  of  a  portion  of 
the  bark  of  my  cheek,  had  not  my  horse  described  a  somersault,  coming 
down  with  the  broad  of  his  back  on- the  calf  of  my  right  leg,  and  bruis- 
ing it  so  severely  as  to  incapacitate  me  from  walking  for  several  days. 

About  midday  we  resumed  our  march,  and  in  the  evening  we  reached 
Great  Chooi,   a  very  large  saltpan  at  present  full  of  water.     Here  I 


SPOOR    OF    LIONS.  117 

found,  for  the  first  time,  the  bones  and  skull  of  a  xhinoceros  long  killed. 
My  interpreter  informed  me  that  the  rhinoceros  had  long  left  that 
country ;  to  his  surprise,  however,  we  discovered  fresh  spoor  by  the 
fountain.  Continuing  our  march,  on  the  22nd  we  entered  on  a  new  de- 
scription of  country  :  boundless  open  plains  being  succeeded  by  endless 
forests  of  dwarfish  trees  and  bushes,  the  ground  slightly  undulating, 
and  covered  with  a  variety  of  rich  grasses  and  aromatic  herbs.  The 
old  and  seldom-trodden  waggon-track  which  we  followed  seemed  a 
favourite  footpath  for  a  troop  of  lions,  their  large  and  heavy  spoor 
being  deeply  imprinted  in  our  path.  At  sundown  we  encamped  on  the 
Siklagole  River,  a  periodical  stream,  in  the  gravelly  bed  of  which  fine 
spring-water  could  be  obtained  by  digging.  As  we  were  in  great  want 
of  flesh,  my  hungry  pack  being  nearly  starving,  I  resolved  to  rest  my 
oxen  on  the  following  day,  and  hunt  for  eland,  the  spoor  of  several  of 
which  we  discovered  beside  our  encampment. 

On  the  morning  of  the  23rd  I  rode  east  with  after-riders  and  a  pack- 
horse.  The  country  through  which  we  passed  resembled  a  vast  inter- 
minable park,  being  adorned  with  a  continued  succession  of  picturesque 
dwarfish  forest-trees  single  and  in  groups.  Such,  with  the  exception  of 
a  few  grassy  open  plains,  is  the  character  of  the  country  from  Siklagole, 
as  far  as  the  mountains  of  Bakatla.  We  failed  to  fall  in  with  elands, 
but  I  succeeded  in  bringing  down  two  zebras  and  a  hartebeest,  which, 
along  with  sassaybys,  oryx,  and  ostriches,  now  became  daily  more  abun- 
dant. On  the  31st  we  reached  the  Kurrichane  mountain  range.  Having 
crossed  these,  we  proceeded  up  a  valley  about  three  miles,  when  we 
reached  a  gorge  in  the  mountains  which  connected  this  fine  valley  with 
the  great  strath  or  vale  of  Bakatla.  Through  this  gorge  ran  a  stream 
of  the  purest  crystal  water.  Our  road  lay  along  the  margin  of  this 
stream,  across  large  masses  of  stone  and  ledges  of  rock,  which  threatened 
every  moment  the  destruction  of  our  waggons. 

Following  the  stream  for  half  a  mile,  we  arrived  at  Mabotza,  the  kraal 
of  Mosielely,  king  of  the  Bakatlas,  a  tribe  of  Bechuanas.  Here  I  was 
kindly  received  by  Dr.  Livingstone,  the  resident  missionary.  The  vale 
of  Bakatla,  which  I  had  now  reached,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots 
in  Africa.  It  is  a  broad  and  level  strath  extending  from  east  to  west, 
and  bounded  by  picturesque  rocky  mountains,  beautifully  wooded  to 
their  summits.  In  parts  the  strath  is  adorned  with  groves  and  patches 
of  beautiful  forest-trees  of  endless  variety;  in  others  it  is  open,  carpeted 
with  a  goodly  coating  of  luxuriant  grass.  A  large  portion  of  the  valley, 
opposite  to  the  town,  is  cultivated  by  the  Bakatla  women,  and  a  succes- 
sion of  extensive  corn-fields  stretched  away  to  the  northward  of  the 
kraal.  These  had  lately  been  denuded  of  their  crops,  but  a  goodly  show 
of  pumpkins  and  water-melons  still  remained  on  the  fields.  The  follow- 
ing day  was  Sunday,  and  I  attended  Divine  service  in  a  temporary  place 
of  worship  that  had  been  erected  by  the  missionaries.  It  was  amusing 
to  remark,  in  the  costume  of  the  Bakatlas  on  this  occasion,  the  progress 
of  the  march  of  civilization.  All  those  who  had  managed  to  get  hold  of 
some  European  article  of  dress  had  donned  it,  some  appearing  in  trousers 
without  shirts,  and  others  in  shirts  without  trousers. 

The  2nd  of  June  was  the  coldest  day  I  had  experienced  in  Africa,  a 


118  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

cutting  cold  wind  blowing  off  the  Southern  Ocean.  On  the  morning  of 
the  2nd  I  was  waited  upon  by  Mosielely,  attended  by  a  number  of  his 
nobility  and  others  of  the  tribe,  who  flocked  around  my  waggons  impor- 
tunately requesting  snuff.  The  appearance  of  the  chief  was  mild,  but 
not  dignified.  One  of  his  generals,  with  whom  he  seemed  to  be  on  very 
intimate  terms,  was  a  jolly-looking  old  warrior  with  a  wall  eye,  and  a 
face  strongly  marked  with  the  small-pox.  This  man's  name  was  "  Siemi." 
He  had  killed  about  twenty  men  in  battle  with  his  own  hand,  and  bore 
a  mark  of  honour  for  every  man.  This  mark  was  a  line  tattooed  on  his 
ribs.  Mosielely  presented  me  with  a  bag  of  sour  milk,  and  requested 
that  I  would  tarry  with  him  for  a  few  days  for  the  purpose  of  trading. 

I  informed  him  that  I  was  now  anxious  to  push  on  to  the  country  of 
the  elephants,  but  would  trade  with  him  on  my  return.  This  intimation 
seemed  very  much  to  disappoint  the  king,  who  was  anxious  to  exchange 
karosses  for  guns  and  ammunition.  But  I  had  resolved  to  part  with  my 
muskets  solely  for  ivory,  which  article  Mosielely  on  this  particular  occa- 
sion did  not  possess.  The  Bakatlas  work  a  great  deal  in  iron,  manu- 
facturing various  articles,  with  which  they  supply  the  neighbouring 
tribes.  They  obtain  their  iron  from  ore,  which  they  procure  by  excava- 
ting in  the  surrounding  mountains.  This  ore  is  smelted  in  crucibles,  a 
great  deal  of  the  metal  being  wasted,  and  only  the  best  and  purest 
being  preserved.  They  use  a  sort  of  double  bellows,  consisting  of  two 
bags  of  skin,  by  which  the  air  is  forced  through  the  long  tapering  tubes 
of  the  two  horns  of  the  oryx.  The  person  using  the  bellows  squats  be- 
tween the  two  bags,  which  he  raises  and  depresses  alternately,  working 
one  with  each  hand.  Their  hammer  and  anvil  consists  of  two  stones. 
They  nevertheless  contrive  to  turn  very  neat  workmanship  out  of  their 
hands,  such  as  spears,  battle-axes,  assagais,  knives,  sewing-needles,  etc. 
The  men  of  this  tribe  also  manufacture  large  wooden  bowls,  which  they 
cut  out  of  the  solid  piece,  the  tool  they  use  for  this  purpose  being  a 
small  implement  shaped  like  an  adze. 

Dr.  Livingstone  informed  me  that  large  game  was  abundant  on  all 
sides  to  the  northward  of  Bakatla.  He  stated  that  herds  of  elephants 
occasionally  visited  the  territories  of  the  adjoining  chiefs,  sometimes  fre- 
quenting a  district  for  half  a  summer ;  but  that  at  present  he  was  not 
aware  of  any  elephants  in  the  forests  adjacent  to  Bakatla.  He  repre- 
sented the  distant  and  unexplored  forests  beyond  Bamangwato,  the 
territory  of  Sicomy,  as  being  allowed  by  the  natives  to  be  the  country 
where  elephants  were  at  all  times  abundant.  There  was  also  a  prospect 
of  obtaining  their  ivory  in  barter  for  my  muskets.  I  accordingly  re- 
solved, in  the  first  instance,  to  direct  my  attention  mainly  to  elephants, 
and  not  to  tarry  in  any  district,  however  favourable,  for  the  purpose  of 
hunting  other  varieties  of  game. 

Dr.  Livingstone  stated  that  I  should  experience  considerable  difficulty 
in  reaching  Bamangwato,  since  there  was  no  path  nor  track  of  any  de- 
scription to  guide  me  thither.  My  only  chance  of  getting  there  seemed 
to  depend  on  being  able  to  obtain  Bechuana  guides  from  Caachy,  a  sub- 
ordinate chief  of  a  branch  of  the  "  Baquaina  "  tribe,  then  resident  at  a 
place  called  "  Booby,"  situated  about  eighty  miles  to  the  north-west  of 
Bakatla.     Without  these  guides  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  pro- 


WILDEBEESTS    AND    BUFFALOES.  119 

ceed,  as  the  waters  were  few  and  very  far  between.  The  probability, 
however,  was  that  these  guides  would  be  refused,  since  it  is  the  invari- 
able policy  of  African  chiefs  to  prevent  all  travellers  from  penetrating 
beyond  themselves. 

Bamandwato  is  distant  upwards  of  two  hundred  miles  to  the  north- 
ward of  Bakatla,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  rugged  and  apparently 
impassable  mountain  ranges,  extensive  sandy  deserts,  which  are  desti- 
tute of  water,  and  vast  and  trackless  forests.  Isaac,  my  interpreter,  al- 
ready began  to  lose  heart,  and  raised  a  thousand  objections  to  my  pro- 
ceeding to  so  distant  a  country.  He  recommended  my  rather  hunting 
in  the  territory  of  "  Sichely,"  the  paramount  chief  of  the  Baquaines, 
situated  about  fifty  miles  to  the  north  of  Bakatla,  where  he  assured  me 
we  should  find  elephants.  Perceiving  that  his  remonstrances  did  not 
avail,  and  that  I  was  inexorable,  he  proposed  resigning  his  commission, 
and  was  with  difficulty  prevailed  on  by  Dr.  Livingstone  to  agree  to  ac- 
company me  farther. 

On  the  3rd  I  took  leave  of  my  kind  friend  Dr.  Livingstone,  and  started 
for  Bamangwato.  I  was  accompanied  by  a  large  party  of  the  Bakatla 
men  and  two  Baquaines.  They  followed  me  in  the  hope  of  obtaining 
flesh,  a  report  having  spread  through  the  tribe  that  I  was  a  successful 
hunter.  The  Bechuanas  are  extremely  fond  of  flesh,  which  they  con- 
sider the  only  food  befitting  men.  Corn  and  milk  they  reckon  the  food 
of  women.  Having  no  flesh  at  home,  and  being  seldom  able  to  kill 
large  game  for  themselves,  they  entertain  great  respect  for  those  who 
kill  plenty  of  venison  for  them,  and  they  will  travel  to  very  great  dis- 
tances for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  it.  We  proceeded  in  a  westerly 
course,  and  held  up  the  lovely  valley  of  Bakatla,  through  open  glades 
and  patches  of  ancient  forests. 

I  had  ridden  only  a  short  distance  across  the  valley  when  I  fell  in 
with  a  troop  of  blue  wildebeests,  one  of  which  I  wounded  and  immedi- 
ately lost  in  rocky  ground.  I  then  rode  on,  and  crossed  a  ridge  of  stony 
hills  covered  with  thick  jungle,  after  which  I  entered  upon  another 
grassy  and  well  wooded  valley.  Presently  I  observed  seven  majestic 
buck  koodoos  standing  on  the  mountain  side  high  above  me.  In  trying 
to  stalk  these  I  disturbed  a  troop  of  graceful  pallahs  and  a  herd  of 
zebras,  which  clattered  along  the  mountain,  and  spoiled  my  stalk  with 
the  koodoos.  I  now  observed  a  large  herd  of  buffaloes  reclining  under 
a  clump  of  mimosa-trees  a  little  farther  up  the  valley.  Descending  from 
my  position,  I  secured  my  horse  to  a  tree,  and  proceeded  to  stalk  in  on 
the  buffaloes.  While  I  was  doing  this,  a  herd  of  zebras,  which  I  had 
not  observed,  got  my  wind  and  came  cantering  through  the  cover  within 
a  few  yards  of  me.  When  I  reached  the  spot  where  I  had  seen  the  buf- 
faloes they  were  gone ;  having  followed  up  the  spoor,  however,  for  a 
short  distance,  I  overtook  them ;  when  I  shot  the  patriarch  of  the  herd, 
which,  as  usual,  brought  up  the  rear. 

Early  on  the  4th  we  inspanned  and  continued  our  march  for  Booby, 
a  large  party  of  savages  still  following  the  waggons.  Before  proceeding 
far  I  was  tempted  by  the  beautiful  appearance  of  the  country  to  saddle 
horses  to  hunt  in  the  mountains  westward  of  my  course.  I  directed  the 
waggons  to  proceed  a  few  miles  under  guidance  of  the  natives,  and  there 


120   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

await  my  arrival.  I  was  accompanied  by  Isaac,  who  was  mounted  on 
the  Old  Grey,  and  carried  my  clumsy  Dutch  rifle  of  six  to  the  pound. 
Two  Bechuanas  followed  us,  leading  four  of  my  dogs.  Having  crossed 
a  well-wooded  strath,  we  reached  a  little  crystal  river,  whose  margin 
was  trampled  down  with  the  spoor  of  a  great  variety  of  heavy  game, 
but  especially  of  buffalo  and  rhinoceros.  We  took  up  the  spoor  of  a 
troop  of  buffaloes,  which  we  followed  along  a  path  made  by  the  heavy 
beasts  of  the  forest  through  a  neck  in  the  hills  ;  and  emerging  from  the 
thicket,  we  beheld,  on  the  other  side  of  a  valley  which  had  opened  upon 
us,  a  herd  of  about  ten  huge  bull  buffaloes.  These  I  attempted  to  stalk, 
but  was  defeated  by  a  large  herd  of  zebras,  which,  getting  our  wind, 
charged  past  and  startled  the  buffaloes.  I  ordered  the  Bechuanas  to  re- 
lease the  dogs  ;  and  spurring  Colesberg,  which  I  rode  for  the  first  time 
since  the  affair  with  the  lioness,  I  gave  chase.  The  buffaloes  crossed  the 
valley  in  front  of  me,  and  made  for  the  succession  of  dense  thickets  in 
the  hills  to  the  northward. 

As  they  crossed  the  valley,  by  riding  hard  I  obtained  a  broadside 
shot  at  the  last  bull,  and  fired  both  barrels  into  him.  He,  however, 
continued  his  course,  but  I  presently  separated  him,  along  with  two 
other  bulls,  from  the  troop.  My  rifle  being  a  two-grooved,  which  is 
hard  to  load,  I  was  unable  to  do  so  on  horseback,  and  followed  with  it 
empty,  in  the  hope  of  bringing  them  to  bay.  In  passing  through  a 
grove  of  thorny  trees  I  lost  sight  of  the  wounded  buffalo;  he  had  turned 
short  and  doubled  back,  a  common  practice  with  them  when  wounded. 
After  following  the  other  two  at  a  hard  gallop  for  about  two  miles,  I 
was  riding  within  five  yards  of  their  huge  broad  sterns.  They  exhaled 
a  strong  bovine  smell,  which  came  hot  in  my  face.  I  expected  every 
minute  that  they  would  come  to  bay,  and  give  me  time  to  load ;  but 
this  they  did  not  seem  disposed  to  do.  At  length,  finding  I  had  the 
speed  of  them,  I  increased  my  pace  ;  and  going  ahead,  I  placed  myself 
right  before  the  finest  bull,  thus  expecting  to  force  him  to  stand  at  bay; 
upon  which  he  instantly  charged  me  with  a  low  roar,  very  similar  to 
the  voice  of  a  lion.  Colesberg  neatly  avoided  the  charge,  and  the  bull 
resumed  his  northward  course. 

We  now  entered  on  rocky  ground,  and  the  forest  became  more  dense 
as  we  proceeded.  The  buffaloes  were  evidently  making  for  some  strong 
retreat.  I,  however,  managed  with  much  difficulty  to  hold  them  in  view, 
following  as  best  I  could  through  thorny  thickets.  Isaac  rode  some 
hundred  yards  behind,  and  kept  shouting  to  me  to  drop  the  pursuit,  or 
I  should  be  killed.  At  last  the  buffaloes  suddenly  pulled  up,  and  stood 
at  bay  in  a  thicket  within  twenty  yards  of  me.  Springing  from  my 
horse,  I  hastily  loaded  my  two-grooved  rifle,  which  I  had  scarcely  com- 
pleted when  Isaac  rode  up  and  inquired  what  had  become  of  the  buf- 
faloes, little  dreaming  that  they  were  standing  within  twenty  yards  of 
him.  I  answered  by  pointing  my  rifle  across  his  horse's  nose,  and  let- 
ting fly  sharp  right  and  left  at  the  two  buffaloes. 

A  headlong  charge  accompanied  by  a  muffled  roar  was  the  result.  In 
an  instant  I  was  round  a  clump  of  tangled  thorn-trees ;  but  Isaac,  by 
the  violence  of  his  efforts  to  get  his  horse  in  motion,  lost  his  balance, 
his  saddle,  and  big  Dutch  rifle,  all  came  to  the  ground  together,  with  a 


Moke  buffalo  hunting.  121 

heavy  crash,  right  in  the  path  of  the  infuriated  buffaloes.  Two  of  the 
dogs,  which  had  fortunately  that  moment  joined  us,  met  them  in  their 
charge,  and,  by  diverting  their  attention,  probably  saved  Isaac  from  in- 
stant destruction.  The  buffaloes  now  took  up  another  position  in  an 
adjoining  thicket.  They  were  both  badly  wounded,  blotches  and  pools 
of  blood  marking  the  ground  where  they  had  stood.  The  dogs  rendered 
me  assistance  by  taking  up  their  attention,  and  in  a  few  minutes  these 
two  noble  bulls  breathed  their  last  beneath  the  shade  of  a  mimosa  grove. 
Each  of  them  in  dying  repeatedly  uttered  a  very  striking,  low,  deep 
moan.  This  I  subsequently  ascertained  the  buffalo  invariably  utters 
when  in  the  act  of  expiring. 

On  going  up  to  them  I  was  astonished  to  behold  their  size  and  power- 
ful appearance.  Their  horns  reminded  me  of  the  rugged  trunk  of  an 
oak-tree.  Each  horn  was  upwards  of  a  foot  in  breadth  at  the  base,  and 
together  they  effectually  protected  the  skull  with  a  massive  and  impene- 
trable shield.  The  horns,  descending,  and  spreading  out  horizontally, 
completely  overshadowed  the  animal's  eyes,  imparting  to  him  a  look  the 
most  ferocious  and  sinister  that  can  be  imagined.  On  my  way  to  the 
waggons  I  shot  a  stag  sassayby,  and  while  I  was  engaged  in  removing 
his  head  a  troop  of  about  thirty  doe  pallahs  cantered  past  me,  followed 
by  one  princely  old  buck.  Snatching  up  my  rifle,  I  made  a  fine  shot, 
and  rolled  him  over  in  the  grass. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  I  despatched  men  with  a  packhorse  to  bring 
the  finer  of  the  two  buffalo-heads.  It  was  so  ponderous  that  two  power- 
ful men  could  with  difficulty  raise  it  from  the  ground.  The  Bechuanas 
who  had  accompanied  me,  on  hearing  of  my  success,  snatched  up  their 
shields  and  assagais,  and  hastened  to  secure  the  flesh,  nor  did  I  see  any 
more  of  them,  with  the  exception  of  the  two  Baquaines,  who  remained 
with  me,  being  engaged  in  a  plot  with  my  interpreter  to  prevent  my 
penetrating  to  Bamangwato.  Isaac  did  not  soon  forget  his  adventure 
with  the  buffaloes ;  and  at  night  over  the  fire  he  informed  my  men  that 
I  was  mad,  and  that  any  man  who  followed  me  was  going  headlong  to  his 
own  destruction.  At  an  early  hour  on  the  5th  I  continued  my  march 
through  a  glorious  country  of  hill  and  dale,  throughout  which  water  was 
abundant. 

Beautifully  wooded  hills  and  mountains  stretched  away  on  every 
side ;  some  of  the  mountains  were  particularly  grand  and  majestic,  their 
summits  being  surrounded  by  steep  precipices  and  abrupt  parapets  of 
rock,  the  abodes  of  whole  colonies  of  black-faced  baboons,  which, 
astonished  to  behold  such  novel  intruders  upon  their  domains,  leisurely 
descended  the  craggy  mountain  sides  for  a  nearer  inspection  of  our  cara- 
van. Seating  themselves  together  upon  a  broad  ledge,  they  seemed  to 
hold  a  council  as  to  the  propriety  of  permitting  us  to  proceed  farther 
through  their  territories.  Having  advanced  about  nine  miles,  I  drew 
up  my  waggons  on  the  bank  of  a  rivulet,  where  the  spoor  of  large  game 
was  extremely  abundant.  In  the  bed  of  the  stream  I  discovered  the 
scaly  skin  of  a  manis,  which  had  been  newly  eaten  by  some  bird  of  prey. 
This  extraordinary  animal,  which  in  its  habits  partakes  of  the  nature  of 
the  hedgehog,  is  about  three  feet  in  length,  and  is  covered  all  over  with 
an  impenetrable  coat  of  mail,  consisting  of  large  rough  scales  about  the 


122  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

size  and  shape  of  the  husk  of  an  artichoke  ;  these  overlap  one  another 
in  an  extraordinary  and  very  beautiful  manner.  Its  tail  is  broad,  and 
likewise  covered  with  scales ;  on  being  disturbed  it  rolls  itself  into  a 
ball  :  the  manis  is  met  with  throughout  the  interior  of  South  Africa, 
but  it  is  rare,  and  very  seldom  seen. 

Of  the  rhinoceros  there  are  four  varieties  in  South  Africa,  dis- 
tinguished by  the  Bechuanas  by  the  names  of  the  borel6  or  black 
rhinoceros,  the  keitloa  or  two-horned  black  rhinoceros,  the  muchocho  or 
common  white  rhinoceros,  and  the  kobaoba  or  long-horned  white  rhin- 
oceros. Both  varieties  of  the  black  rhinoceros  are  extremely  fierce  and 
dangerous,  and  rush  headlong  and  unprovoked  at  any  object  which 
attracts  their  attention.  They  never  attain  much  fat,  and  their  flesh  is 
tough,  and  not  much  esteemed  by  the  Bechuanas.  Their  food  consists 
almost  entirely  of  the  thorny  branches  of  the  wait-a-bit  thorns.  Their 
horns  are  much  shorter  than  those  of  the  other  varieties,  seldom  exceed- 
ing eighteen  inches  in  length.  They  are  finely  polished  with  constant 
rubbing  against  the  trees.  The  skull  is  remarkably  formed,  its  most 
striking  feature  being  the  tremendous  thick  ossification  in  which  it  ends 
above  the  nostrils.  It  is  on  this  mass  that  the  horn  is  supported.  The 
horns  are  not  connected  with  the  skull,  being  attached  merely  by  the 
skin,  and  they  may  thus  be  separated  from  the  head  by  means  of  a 
sharp  knife.  They  are  hard  and  perfectly  solid  throughout,  and  are  a 
fine  material  for  various  articles,  such  as  drinking  cups,  mallets  for 
rifles,  handles  for  turner's  tools,  etc.,  etc.  The  horn  is  capable  of  a  very 
high  polish.  The  eyes  of  the  rhinoceros  are  small  and  sparkling,  and  do 
not  readily  observe  the  hunter,  provided  he  keep  to  leeward  of  them. 
The  skin  is  extremely  thick,  and  only  to  be  penetrated  by  bullets 
hardened  with  solder. 

During  the  day  the  rhinoceros  will  be  found  lying  asleep  or  standing 
indolently  in  some  retired  part  of  the  forest,  or  under  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  sheltered  from  the  power  of  the  sun  by  some  friendly  grove 
of  umbrella-topped  mimosas.  In  the  evening  they  commence  their 
nightly  ramble,  and  wander  over  a  great  extent  of  country.  They 
usually  visit  the  fountains  between  the  hours  of  nine  and  twelve  o'clock 
at  night,  and  it  is  on  these  occasions  that  they  may  be  most  successfully 
hunted,  and  with  the  least  danger.  The  black  rhinoceros  is  subject  to 
paroxysms  of  unprovoked  fury,  often  ploughing  up  the  ground  for 
several  yards  with  its  horn,  and  assaulting  large  bushes  in  the  most 
violent  manner.  On  these  bushes  they  work  for  hours  with  their  horns, 
at  the  same  time  snorting  and  blowing  loudly,  nor  do  they  leave  them 
in  general  until  they  have  broken  them  into  pieces.  The  rhinoceros  is 
supposed  by  many,  and  by  myself  among  the  rest,  to  be  the  animal 
alluded  to  by  Job,  chap,  xxxix.  verses  10  and  11,  where  it  is  written, 
"  Canst  thou  bind  the  unicorn  with  his  band  in  the  furrow  ?  or  will  he 
harrow  the  valleys  after  thee  ?  Wilt  thou  trust  him  because  his  strength 
is  great  1  or  wilt  thou  leave  thy  labour  to  him  ?  "  evidently  alluding  to 
an  animal  possessed  of  great  strength  and  of  untameable  disposition,  for 
both  of  which  the  rhinoceros  is  remarkable. 

All  the  four  varieties  delight  to  roll  and  wallow  in  mud,  with  which 
their  rugged  hides  are  generally  encrusted.     Both  varieties  of  the  black 


HUNTING    THE    WH.ITE    EHINOCEKOS.       123 

rhinoceros  are  much  smaller  and  more  active  than  the  white,  and  are  so 
swift  that  a  horse  with  a  rider  on  his  back  can  rarely  overtake  them. 
The  two  varieties  of  the  white  rhinoceros  are  so  similar  in  habits,  that 
the  description  of  one  will  serve  for  both  ;  the  principal  difference  con- 
sisting in  the  length  and  set  of  the  anterior  horn ;  that  of  the  muchocho 
averaging  from  two  to  three  feet  in  length,  and  pointing  backwards ; 
while  the.  horn  of  the  kobaoba  often  exceeds  four  feet  in  length,  and 
inclines  forward  from  the  nose  at  an  angle  of  45°.  The  posterior  horn 
of  either  species  seldom  exceeds  six  or  seven  inches  in  length.  The  ko- 
baoba is  the  rarer  of  the  two,  and  it  is  found  very  far  in  the  interior, 
chiefly  to  the  eastward  of  the  Limpopo.  Its  horns  are  very  valuable 
for  loading  rods,  supplying  a  substance  at  once  suitable  for  a  sporting 
implement  and  excellent  for  the  purpose.  Both  these  varieties  of 
rhinoceros  attain  an  enormous  size,  being  the  animals  next  in  magnitude 
to  the  elephant.  They  feed  solely  on  grass,  carry  much  fat,  and  their 
flesh  is  excellent,  being  preferable  to  beef.  They  are  of  a  much  milder 
and  more  inoffensive  disposition  than  the  black  rhinoceros,  rarely 
charging  their  pursuer.  Their  speed  is  very  inferior  to  that  of  the  other 
varieties,  and  a  person  well  mounted  can  overtake  and  shoot  them. 
The  head  of  these  is  a  foot  longer  than  that  of  the  borel6.  They  gener- 
ally carry  their  heads  low,  whereas  the  borel6,  when  disturbed,  carries 
his  very  high,  which  imparts  to  him  a  saucy  and  independent  air. 
Unlike  the  elephants,  they  never  associate  in  herds,  but  are  met  with 
singly  or  in  pairs.  In  districts  where  they  are  abundant,  from  three  to 
six  may  be  found  in  company,  and  I  once  saw  upwards  of  a  dozen  con- 
gregated together  on  some  young  grass,  but  such  an  occurrence  is  rare. 

It  was  on  the  4th  of  June  that  I  beheld  for  the  first  time  the  rhino- 
ceros. Having  taken  some  coffee,  I  rode  out  unattended,  with  my  rifle, 
and  before  proceeding  far  I  fell  in  with  a  huge  white  rhinoceros,  with  a 
large  calf,  standing  in  a  thorny  grove.  Getting  my  wind,  she  set  off  at 
top  speed  through  thick  thorny  bushes,  the  calf,  as  is  invariably  the 
case,  taking  the  lead,  and  the  mother  guiding  its  course  by  placing  her 
horn,  generally  about  three  feet  in  length,  against  its  ribs.  My  horse 
shied  very  much  at  first,  alarmed  at  the  strange  appearance  of  "  Chuku- 
roo,"  but  by  a  sharp  application  of  spur  and  jambok  I  prevailed  upon 
him  to  follow,  and  presently,  the  ground  improving,  I  got  alongside,  and, 
firing  at  a  gallop,  sent  a  bullet  through  her  shoulder.  She  continued 
her  pace  with  blood  streaming  from  the  wound,  and  very  soon  reached 
an  impracticable  thorny  jungle,  where  I  could  not  follow,  and  instantly 
lost  her.  In  half  an  hour  I  fell  in  with  a  second  rhinoceros,  being  an 
old  bull  of  the  white  variety.  Dismounting,  I  crept  within  twenty 
yards,  and  saluted  him  with  both  barrels  in  the  shoulder,  upon  which 
he  made  off,  uttering  a  loud  blowing  noise,  and  upsetting  everything 
that  obstructed  his  progress. 

Shortly  after  this  I  found  myself  on  the  banks  of  the  stream  beside 
which  my  waggons  were  outspanned.  Following  along  its  margin,  I 
presently  beheld  a  bull  of  the  borel6,  or  black  rhinoceros,  standing  with- 
in a  hundred  yards  of  me.  Dismounting  from  my  horse  I  secured  him 
to  a  tree,  and  then  stalked  within  twenty  yards  of  the  huge  beast  under 
cover  of  a  large  strong  bush.   Borele,  hearing  me  advance,  came  on  to  see 


124    HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 

• 

what  it  was,  and  suddenly  protruded  his  horny  nose  within  twenty 
yards  of  me.  Knowing  well  that  a  front  shot  would  not  prove  deadly, 
I  sprang  to  my  feet  and  ran  behind  the  bush.  Upon  this  the  villain 
charged,  blowing  loudly,  and  chased  me  round  the  bush.  Had  his 
activity  been  equal  to  his  ugliness,  my  wanderings  would  have  termin- 
ated here,  but  by  my  superior  agility  I  had  the  advantage  in  the  turn. 
After  standing  a  short  time  eyeing  me  through  the  bush,  he  got  a  whiff 
of  my  wind,  which  at  once  alarmed  him.  Uttering  a  blowing  noise,  and 
erecting  his  insignificant  yet  saucy  looking  tail,  he  wheeled  about,  leav- 
ing me  master  of  the  field,  when  I  sent  a  bullet  through  his  ribs  to  teach 
him  manners. 

Finding  that  rhinoceroses  were  abundant  in  the  vicinity,  I  resolved 
to  halt  a  day  for  the  purpose  of  hunting,  and  after  an  early  breakfast 
on  the  6th  I  rode  south-east  with  the  two  Baquaines.  They  led  me 
along  the  bases  of  the  mountains,  through  woody  dells  and  open  glades, 
and  we  eventually  reached  a  grand  forest  grey  with  age.  Here  we  found 
abundance  of  spoor  of  a  variety  of  game,  and  started  several  herds  of 
the  more  common  varieties.  At  length  I  observed  an  old  bull  eland 
standing  under  a  tree.  He  was  the  first  that  I  had  seen,  and  was  a 
noble  specimen,  standing  about  six  feet  high  at  the  shoulder.  Observing 
us,  he  made  off  at  a  gallop,  springing  over  the  trunks  of  decayed  trees 
which  lay  across  his  path ;  but  very  soon  he  reduced  his  pace  to  a  trot. 
Spurring  my  horse,  another  moment  saw  me  riding  hard  behind  him. 
Twice  in  the  thickets  I  lost  sight  of  him,  and  he  very  nearly  escaped 
me ;  but  at  length,  the  ground  improving,  I  came  up  with  him,  and 
rode  within  a  few  yards  behind  him. 

Long  streaks  of  foam  now  streamed  from  his  mouth,  and  a  profuse 
perspiration  had  changed  his  sleek  grey  coat  to  an  ashy  blue.  Tears 
trickled  from  his  large  dark  eye,  and  it  was  plain  that  the  eland's  hours 
were  numbered.  Pitching  my  rifle  to  my  shoulder,  I  let  fly  at  the  gal- 
lop, and  mortally  wounded  him  behind ;  then  spurring  my  horse,  I  shot 
past  him  on  his  right  side,  and  discharged  my  other  barrel  behind  his 
shoulder,  when  the  eland  staggered  for  a  moment  and  subsided  in  the 
dust.  The  two  Baquaines  soon  made  their  appearance,  and  seemed  de- 
lighted at  my  success.  Having  kindled  a  fire,  they  cut  out  steaks,  which 
they  roasted  on  the  embers  :  I  also  cooked  a  steak  for  myself,  spitting 
it  upon  a  forked  branch,  the  other  end  of  which  I  sharpened  with  my 
knife  and  stuck  into  the  ground. 

This  magnificent  animal  is  by  far  the  largest  of  all  the  antelope  tribe, 
exceeding  a  large  ox  in  size.  It  also  attains  an  extraordinary  condition, 
being  often  burthened  with  a  very  large  amount  of  fat.  Its  flesh  is 
most  excellent,  and  is  justly  esteemed  above  all  others.  It  has  a  pecu- 
liar sweetness,  and  is  tender  and  fit  for  use  the  moment  the  animal  is 
killed.  Like  the  gemsbok,  the  eland  is  independent  of  water,  and  fre- 
quents the  borders  of  the  great  Kalahari  desert  in  herds  varying  from 
ten  to  a  hundred.  It  is  also  generally  diffused  throughout  all  the 
wooded  districts  of  the  interior  where  I  have  hunted.  Like  other  varie- 
ties of  deer  and  antelope,  the  old  males  may  often  be  found  consorting 
together  apart  from  the  females,  and  a  troop  of  these,  when  in  full  con- 
dition, may  be  likened  to  a  herd  of  stall-fed  oxen.      The  eland  has  less 


HUNTING    THE    RHINOCEROS.  125 


speed  than  any  other  variety  of  antelope;  and,  by  judicious  riding,  they 
may  be  driven  to  camp  from  a  great  distance.  In  this  manner  I  have 
often  ridden  the  best  bull  out  of  the  herd,  and  brought  him  within  gun- 
shot of  my  waggons,  where  I  could  more  conveniently  cut  up  and  pre- 
serve the  flesh,  without  the  trouble  of  sending  men  and  pack-oxen  to 
fetch  it.  I  have  repeatedly  seen  an  eland  drop  down  dead  at  the  end  of 
a  severe  chase,  owing  to  his  plethoric  habit.  The  skin  of  the  eland  I 
had  just  shot  emitted,  like  most  other  antelopes,  the  most  delicious  per- 
fume of  trees  and  grass. 

Having  eaten  my  steak,  I  rode  to  my  waggons,  where  I  partook  of 
coffee,  and  having  mounted  a  fresh  horse  I  again  set  forth,  accompanied 
by  Carollus  leading  a  packhorse,  to  bring  home  the  head  of  the  eland 
and  a  supply  of  the  flesh  :  I  took  all  my  dogs  along  with  me  to  share 
in  the  banquet.  We  had  not  proceeded  far  when  the  dogs  went  ahead 
on  some  scent.  Spurring  my  horse,  I  followed  through  the  thorny 
bushes  as  best  I  might,  and  emerging  on  an  open  glade,  I  beheld  two 
huge  white  rhinoceroses  trotting  along  before  me.  The  dogs  attacked 
them  with  fury,  and  a  scene  of  intense  excitement  ensued.  The  Old 
Grey,  on  observing  them,  pricked  up  his  ears  and  seemed  only  half  in- 
clined to  follow,  but  a  sharp  application  of  the  spur  reminded  him  of 
his  duty,  and  I  was  presently  riding  within  ten  yards  of  the  stern  of  the 
largest,  and  sent  a  bullet  through  her  back. 

The  Old  Grey  shied  considerably  and  became  very  unmanageable,  and 
on  one  occasion,  in  consequence,  the  rhinoceros,  finding  herself  hemmed 
in  by  a  bend  in  a  watercourse,  turned  round  to  charge :  I  had  a  very  nar- 
row escape.  Presently,  galloping  up  on  one  side,  I  gave  her  a  bad  wound 
in  the  shoulder,  soon  after  which  she  came  to  bay  in  the  dry  bed  of  a 
river.  Dismounting  from  my  horse,  I  commenced  loading,  but  before 
this  was  accomplished  she  was  off  once  more.  I  followed  her,  putting 
on  my  caps  as  I  rode,  and  coming  up  alongside  I  made  a  fine  shot  from 
the  saddle,  firing  at  the  gallop.  The  ball  entered  somewhere  near  her 
heart.  On  receiving  this  shot  she  reeled  about,  while  torrents  of  blood 
streamed  from  her  mouth  and  wounds,  and  presently  she  rolled  over 
and  expired,  uttering  a  shrill  screaming  sound  as  she  died,  which  rhino- 
ceroses invariably  do  while  in  the  agonies  of  death. 

The  chase  had  led  me  close  in  along  the  northern  base  of  a  lofty  de- 
tached mountain,  the  highest  in  all  that  country.  This  mountain  is 
called  by  the  Bechuanas  the  Mountain  of  the  Eagles.  The  eland  which 
I  had  shot  in  the  morning  lay  somewhere  to  the  southward  of  this  moun- 
tain, but  far  in  the  level  forest.  Having  rounded  the  mountain,  I  began 
to  recognise  the  ground,  and  presently  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  behold 
a  few  vultures  soaring  over  the  forest  in  advance,  and,  on  proceeding  a 
short  distance  farther,  large  groups  of  these  birds  were  seated  on  the 
grey  and  weather-beaten  branches  of  the  loftiest  old  trees  of  the  forest. 
This  was  a  certain  sign  that  the  eland  was  not  far  distant ;  and  on  rais- 
ing my  voice  and  loudly  calling  on  the  name  of  Carollus,  I  was  instantly 
answered  by  that  individual,  who,  heedless  of  his  master's  fate,  was  ac- 
tively employed  in  cooking  for  himself  a  choice  steak  from  the  dainty 
rump  of  the  eland.      That  night  I  slept  beneath  the  blue  and  starry 

8 


126    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTUEES. 

canopy  of  heaven.     My  sleep  was  light  and  sweet,  and  no  rude  dreams 
or  hankering  cares  disturbed  the  equanimity  of  my  repose. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


My  Hottentots  object  to  advance  farther  into  the  Interior — A  Boar  Hunt — We 
march  through  a  charming  Country — The  Mountain  Pass  of  Sesetabie — A  Lion 
and  Lioness  inspect  my  Cattle,  and  the  Lion  pays  for  peeping — Hungry 
Hyaenas  sup  upon  the  Cattle  Furniture — The  Camelopard — Description  of  its 
Habits — Booby,  a  Bechuana  Kraal — Gun  Medicine — Disastrous  Finale  to  an 
Incantation — Native  Conspiracy  to  prevent  my  farther  Progress. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  7th  we  arose,  and,  having  loaded  the  pack-horse 
with  a  burden  of  flesh  and  fat,  I  despatched  one  of  the  Baquaines  with 
him  to  camp.  Carollus  and  I  then  rode  for  the  rhinoceros  to  secure  the 
horn.  On  nearing  the  carcase,  a  noble  bull-buffalo  stood  within  thirty 
yards  of  me,  but  I  had  omitted  to  put  on  my  caps.  Lions  had  con- 
sumed a  large  part  of  the  rhinoceros,  and  had  sneaked  off  on  hearing  us 
approach,  leaving,  as  is  usual,  matted  locks  from  their  shaggy  grey 
manes  sticking  on  the  broken  points  of  the  projecting  ribs.  My  dogs 
on  scenting  them  ran  barking  angrily  in  the  direction  which  the  lions 
had  held,  springing  up  into  the  air  with  their  hair  bristling  along  their 
backs.  With  considerable  difficulty  we  separated  the  horn  of  the  muc- 
hocho  from  the  skin  by  means  of  a  long  sharp  knife.  It  was  nearly 
three  feet  in  length,  and  measured  almost  a  foot  in  diameter  at  the  base. 
This  being  accomplished,  we  returned  to  camp. 

Here  I  found  that  Isaac  had  not  been  idle  in  forwarding  his  own 
views.  I  at  once  saw  that  my  followers  had  something  unusual  on  their 
minds;  blackness  and  dismay  were  plainly  written  on  every  counte- 
nance. I  had  scarcely  seated  myself  beside  the  fire,  when  Isaac 
approached  me  with  a  slow  funereal  step,  and  horror  depicted  in  his 
face,  and  asked  me  if  I  had  heard  the  news.  I  replied,  What  news  1 
He  went  on  to  state  that  on  the  preceding  evening  two  men  of  the  Ba- 
mangwato  tribe  had  passed  my  waggons  on  their  way  to  Bakatla,  to 
warn  that  tribe  of  the  on  coming  of  the  cruel  and  warlike  Matabili 
(whose  powerful  chief,  Moselekatse,  has  been  so  ably  described  in  the 
pages  of  my  fellow-sportsman,  Captain  Harris).  These  they  represented 
as  having  a  few  days  previously  attacked  and  plundered  various 
Bechuana  tribes  to  the  northward,  and  that  they  were  now  advancing 
by  rapid  marches  to  devastate  the  country  and  murder  the  inhabitants 
of  these  parts. 

This  I  at  once  knew  to  be  a  fabrication  to  prevent  my  penetrating 
farther,  and  I  laughed  at  Isaac  and  told  him  he  had  dreamed  it ;  to 
which  he  replied,  "  Yes,  you  will  not  listen  to  my  advice  when  you  are 
warned  of  danger,  but  both  you  and  your  men  will  one  day  acknowledge 
the  truth  of  my  forebodings."  I  had  considerable  difficulty  in  calming 
the  minds  of  my  followers,  and  prevailing  on  them  to  proceed  farther 
with  me. 

In  the  afternoon  we  continued  our  journey  to  the  northward,  through 
a  country  of  increasing  loveliness.    Beautifully  wooded  hills  and  valleys, 


WILD    BOARS    AND    BUFFALOES.  127 

captivating  to  the  sportsman's  eye,  stretched  away  on  every  side,  with 
rivulets  of  crystal  waters  in  the  valleys,  and  the  spoor  of  large  game 
very  abundant.  On  the  march  my  dogs  dashed  up  the  wind,  and  in  two 
.  minutes  the  peaceful  forest  was  disturbed  by  their  united  voices,  angrily 
barking  around  some  animal  which  they  had  brought  to  bay.  Snatch- 
ing up  my  rifle,  I  rushed  to  the  scene  of  conflict,  and  found  them  actively 
baying  a  fierce  and  grisly  boar,  whose  foaming  jaws  were  adorned  with 
a  pair  of  tusks  so  enormous  as  to  resemble  horns,  each  of  them  being 
upwards  of  a  foot  in  length.  It  was  some  time  before  I  could  obtain  a 
clear  shot,  owing  to  the  eagerness  of  my  dogs,  but  at  length  an  opening 
occurred,  when  I  dropped  the  grim  boar  with  a  bullet  in  the  heart. 
Night  had  scarcely  set  in  when  lions  commenced  to  roar  in  concert  on 
every  side  of  us,  and  continued  their  deep  and  awful  music  until  the  sun 
rose  next  day. 

On  the  8th  we  performed  a  short  march  before  breakfast,  halting 
beside  a  stream  of  delicious  water.  In  the  afternoon  we  resumed  our 
march,  and  halted  at  sundown  beside  the  broad  and  sandy  bed  of  a 
periodical  river,  through  which  ran  a  crystal  stream,  where  we  started  a 
troop  of  eight  or  ten  bull-buffaloes,  one  of  which  my  dogs  immediately 
brought  to  bay,  when  I  finished  him  with  two  balls  behind  the 
shoulder. 

On  the  9th  we  continued  our  march  through  a  lovely  and  romantic 
country,  steering  for  Sesetabie,  an  extremely  bold  and  picturesque  pass, 
in  the  lofty  mountains  in  which  the  "  Kouloubeng  "  or  "river  of  wild 
boars,"  a  tributary  to  the  Ngotwani,  takes  its  rise.  As  the  waggons 
proceeded  I  walked  in  advance  with  my  rifle,  and  presently  brought 
down  a  sassayby.  While  following  a  herd  of  pallahs,  the  waggons  got 
ahead  of  me ;  and  on  overtaking  them,  I  found  them  drawn  up  beside 
a  sweet  little  rocky  river,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  mountain  pass, 
which  from  its  appearance  we  expected  would  prove  a  barrier  to  our 
farther  progress. 

Kleinboy  and  Isaac  had  started  in  pursuit  of  a  large  herd  of  upwards 
of  one  hundred  buffaloes,  which  had  thundered  up  the  river-side  on  the 
approach  of  the  waggons ;  presently  we  heard  them  fire,  and  on  their 
return  to  the  waggons  they  stated  that  they  had  mortally  wounded  an 
enormous  bull.  They  had  certainly  wounded  a  buffalo,  but,  as  I  after- 
wards ascertained,  the  ball  had  struck  him  on  the  hind  leg,  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  ground. 

Having  breakfasted,  I  went  out  on  foot  with  Isaac,  and,  directing  him 
to  follow  up  the  spoor  of  his  wounded  buffalo,  I  proceeded  to  ascend  a 
lofty  mountain-range  to  the  westward  of  the  pass.  Here  I  fell  in  with 
large  colonies  of  baboons  and  a  few  klipspringers.  I  also  saw  for  the 
first  time  green  parrots  and  grey  squirrels.  A  number  of  interesting 
birds,  possessing  melodious  voices,  and  plumage  more  or  less  gaudy, 
adorned  the  groves  and  forests  since  I  had  crossed  the  range  of  the 
Kurrichane  mountains  ;  but  throughout  my  career  in  the  forests  of  the 
interior  my  attention  was  necessarily  so  taken  up  with  the  pursuit  of 
larger,  and  to  me  more  interesting  objects  of  the  chase,  that  I  could 
rarely  bestow  upon  the  feathered  creation  more  than  a  short  and  passing 
glance  of  admiration.      Having  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the  highest 


128    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

mountain  of  the  chain,  I  obtained  a  glorious  view  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

It  was  truly  a  fair  and  boundless  prospect ;  beautifully  wooded  plains 
and  mountains  stretched  away  on  every  side  to  an  amazing  distance, 
until  the  vision  was  lost  among  the  faint  blue  outlines  of  the  distant 
mountain-ranges.  Throughout  all  this  country,  and  vast  tracts  beyond, 
I  had  the  satisfaction  to  reflect  that  a  never-ending  succession  of  herds 
of  every  species  of  noble  game  which  the  hunter  need  desire  pastured 
there  in  undisturbed  security  ;  and  as  I  gazed  I  felt  that  it  was  all  my 
own,  and  that  I  at  length  possessed  the  undisputed  sway  over  a  forest,  in 
comparison  with  which  the  tame  and  herded  narrow  bounds  of  the 
wealthiest  European  sportsman  sink  into  utter  insignificance. 

Returning  to  my  waggons,  I  ascertained  from  Isaac,  who  had  arrived 
there  a  few  minutes  previously,  that  he  had  failed  to  find  his  wounded 
buffalo.  The  truth  was  that  he  had  not  been  in  quest  of  it,  fearing  to 
follow  up  the  spoor;  a  wounded  buffalo  being  deemed  by  the  Bechuanas 
as  dangerous  as  a  lion.  Having  inspanned,  we  proceeded  to  take  the 
bold  mountain-pass  of  Sesetabie,  and  wound  along  the  margin  of  the 
stream,  which  danced  and  sparkled  down  its  abrupt  and  rocky  channel,, 
forming  a  pleasing  succession  of  babbling  streams  and  foaming  water- 
falls. As  we  advanced  farther  up  the  gorge  the  path  became  extremely 
contracted,  there  being  barely  sufficient  room  to  admit  of  the  waggons 
passing  between  the  steep  and  rocky  brink  of  the  stream,  and  the 
rugged  base  of  the  lofty,  inaccessible  mountain  which  towered  on  our 
left.  On  the  opposite  side  the  mountain  forming  the  eastern  bulwark 
of  the  pass  rose  precipitately  from  the  water's  edge,  presenting  an  im- 
passable barrier.  It  was  a  wild  and  lonely  glen,  hitherto  untrodden, 
save  by  the  wild  denizens  of  the  forests,  which  from  time  immemorial 
had  roamed  these  solitudes. 

Large  stones  and  masses  of  granite  rock  obstructed  our  progress,  and 
several  hours  were  occupied  in  rolling  these  to  one  side  before  we  could 
venture  to  bring  on  the  waggons.  The  rocky  way  was  imprinted  with 
the  spoor  of  the  large  herd  of  buffaloes  which  my  followers  had  that 
morning  disturbed,  and  while  my  men  were  engaged  with  the  granite 
boulders,  having  detected  blood  upon  the  stones,  I  proceeded  to  take  up 
the  spoor  of  the  wounded  buffalo,  taking  several  couple  of  my  dogs 
along  with  me.  Having  followed  it  a  short  distance  up  the  pass,  I 
reached  a  point  where  two  streams  met  from  opposite  directions,  and 
here  the  buffalo  had  held  along  the  reed-clad  margin  of  the  western 
branch  of  the  stream,  which  wound  along  the  depths  of  a  lonely  and 
densely  wooded  valley,  embosomed  amid  rocky  mountains.  At  this 
spot  my  dogs,  not  being  led,  snuffed  up  the  wind,  and  instantly  disap- 
peared over  the  ridge  above  me.  Having  proceeded  on  the  spoor  some 
distance,  still  finding  blood,  which  enabled  me  to  distinguish  it  from  the 
spoor  of  others  of  the  herd  which  had  accompanied  him,  I  suddenly 
heard  trampling  in  the  grove  on  the  rocky  hill-side  above  me  ;  and  on 
looking  up  I  beheld  four  splendid  old  bull  buffaloes,  walking  leisurely 
along ;  I  made  a  running  stalk  after  these,  and  was  presently  within 
twenty  yards  of  them,  when,  upon  my  whistling  shrilly,  the  buffaloes 
halted,  and  looked  about  at  me. 


SHOOTING    BUFFALOES    AND    LIONS.       129 


Selecting  the  finest  head,  I  fired  at  the  centre  of  his  forehead,  and  in 
another  instant  the  buffalo  was  rolling  down  the  mountain  side  a  lifeless 
mass.  I  then  returned  to  the  spoor  I  had  been  following,  and  was 
shortly  joined  by  my  dogs,  which  had  heard  the  report  of  my  rifle.  I 
had  not  proceeded  far  when  I  started  the  wounded  bull  out  of  a  bed  of 
reeds ;  he  limped  along  the  margin  of  the  stream  on  three  legs,  one  of 
his  hind  legs  being  shot  off  above  the  spurs.  My  dogs  at  once  brought 
him  to  bay,  and  I  finished  him  with  a  shot  behind  the  shoulder.  The 
sun  was  some  time  under  before  I  reached  the  waggons,  which  we  drew 
up  on  a  narrow  open  glade  above  the  junction  of  the  two  streams.  All 
night  long  lions  and  hyenas  prowled  around,  and  the  dogs  maintained 
an  incessant  barking.  At  dawn  of  day  on  the  following  morning  I  de- 
spatched a  part  of  my  men  with  a  packhorse  and  all  the  dogs  for  a  sup- 
ply of  flesh,  and  the  finer  head  of  the  two  fallen  buffaloes ;  they  found 
them,  as  I  had  anticipated,  half  consumed  by  lions  and  hyaenas. 

It  was  a  cold,  windy  morning,  and  I  lay  in  my  waggon  longer  than 
usual.  My  other  Hottentots  thought  proper  to  leave  their  charge,  and 
go  in  quest  of  honey  under  the  guidance  of  the  garrulous  honey-bird.  I 
had  lain  about  twenty  minutes  in  my  waggon  after  they  had  all  started, 
and  was  occupied  in  reading  a  book,  when  suddenly  I  heard  the  oxen 
come  trotting  along  in  front  of  the  waggons,  as  if  sharply  driven.  On 
raising  my  head  from  my  pillow  I  perceived  a  lioness  following  within 
twenty  yards  of  them,  and  next  moment  her  mate,  a  venerable-looking 
lion,  with  a  shaggy  mane  which  swept  the  ground,  appeared  in  the  yel- 
low grass  in  front  of  the  oxen,  waiting  for  her  to  put  them  to  flight. 
The  plot  had  evidently  been  preconcerted  between  them,  this  being  the 
usual  manner  in  which  the  lion  attacks  the  buffaloes.  Fortunately  the 
oxen  would  not  run  for  them,  and  the  lions  seemed  surprised  at  the 
confidence  of  their  game.  On  springing  to  my  feet  and  shouting  to 
them,  they  joined  one  another,  and  stood  together  beneath  a  shady  tree 
within  a  hundred  and  twenty  yards  of  the  waggons.  My  horses  were 
pasturing  at  a  short  distance  from  the  lions,  feeding  towards  me,  and  on 
these  they  seemed  now  to  meditate  an  attack,  their  intention  being 
divided  between  the  horses  and  myself. 

In  such  a  position  of  affairs  I  considered  it  high  time  to  give  these 
bold  intruders  a  hint  whose  cattle  they  were  so  carefully  herding. 
Snatching  up  my  two-grooved  rifle,  which  at  all  times  hung  loaded  in 
my  waggon,  I  at  once  ran  forward  under  cover  of  a  convenient  bushy 
tree  which  intervened,  and  on  gaining  this  bush  I  was  within  seventy 
yards  of  the  lions.  Here  a  forked  branch  afforded  an  admirable  rest.  I 
placed  my  rifle  in  the  fork,  and,  taking  the  old  lion  low,  I  let  fly,  hit- 
ting him  in  the  shoulder  ;  the  two  then  wheeled  about,  and,  bounding 
forward  with  angry  growls,  disappeared  among  the  trees. 

From  the  cool  state  I  was  in  when  I  fired,  and  the  steady  aim  which 
the  forked  branch  had  afforded  me,  I  felt  convinced  that  the  lion,  if  not 
dead,  must  be  mortally  wounded,  but  I  prudently  resolved  not  to  pro- 
ceed in  quest  of  him  alone.  Presently  some  of  my  men,  who  had  gone 
to  the  carcase  of  a  buffalo  I  had  slain  the  previous  day,  returned  bring- 
ing the  dogs  ;  and,  having  informed  them  of  what  had  happened,  I  pro- 
ceeded to  take  up  the  spoor  of  the  wounded  lion.    On  reaching  the  spot 


130    HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 

where  the  lions  had  stood,  my  dogs  at  once  commenced  barking  angrily 
and  looking  sharply  round  in  every  direction  their  hair  bristling  on 
their  backs.  I  at  once  discovered  blood,  which  increased  as  I  proceeded 
from  small  red  drops  to  large  frothy  blotches ;  and  before  advancing  two 
hundred  yards,  on  approaching  a  dense  green  bush,  my  dogs,  which  led 
the  way,  sprang  suddenly  to  one  side,  barking  with  great  vehemence. 
By  this  I  knew  that  the  lion  was  dead,  and,  on  cautiously  rounding  the 
bush,  taking  care  at  the  same  time  to  give  it  a  wide  berth,  I  had  the 
satisfaction  to  behold  a  princely  lion  stretched  lifeless  on  the  ground. 

He  was  in  the  prime  of  life,  having  fine  sharp  teeth;  and  it  being  now 
the  dead  of  winter  he  carried  the  most  luxuriant  coat  of  hair,  the  rank- 
ness  of  his  flowing  mane  exceeding  in  beauty  anything  I  had  hitherto 
seen.  I  considered  myself  extremely  fortunate  in  having  secured  so 
noble  a  specimen  of  the  lion  with  so  little  danger,  and  I  at  once  set  men 
to  work  to  unrobe  him,  which  they  were  not  long  in  accomplishing. 

About  midday  we  inspanned,  and  trekked  on  till  sundown  through  a 
country  the  most  wild  and  primitive  that  can  be  conceived.  We  pro- 
ceeded under  the  guidance  of  two  Bechuanas,  who  had  joined  us  on  the 
preceding  day,  and  were  proceeding  to  Booby.  The  two  Baquaines  who 
had  accompanied  me  from  Bakatla  had  forsaken  my  standard  after  I 
had  shot  the  bull  eland;  so  liberal  a  supply  of  flesh  being  far  too  power- 
ful a  temptation  to  admit  of  their  proceeding  beyond  it.  On  gaining 
the  neck  of  the  mountain-pass  our  march  for  a  few  miles  wound  through 
beautifully-wooded  grassy  hills,  after  which  we  descended  into  a  rugged 
and  densely  wooded  valley,  intersected  with  deep  watercourses  which 
threatened  momentarily  the  destruction  of  my  axletrees.  So  dense  was 
the  jungle  that  we  were  obliged  repeatedly  to  halt  the  waggons,  and  cut 
out  a  pathway  with  our  axes  before  they  could  advance.  Emerging 
from  this  valley,  we  entered  upon  a  more  level  country,  still,  however, 
densely  covered  with  forest-trees  and  bushes  in  endless  variety.  Here 
water  was  very  abundant.  We  crossed  several  streams  and  marches 
whose  margins  were  a  mass  of  the  spoor  of  wild  animals  ;  that  of  rhino- 
ceros, buffalo,  and  camelopard  being  most  abundant.  At  one  stream 
the  fresh  spoor  of  a  troop  of  lions  was  deeply  imprinted  in  the  wet 
sand. 

Although  I  am  now  acquainted  with  the  native  names  of  a  number  of 
the  trees  of  the  African  forests,  yet  of  their  scientific  names  I  am  utterly 
ignorant.  The  shoulders  and  upper  ridges  of  the  mountains  throughout 
all  that  country  are  profusely  adorned  with  the  graceful  sandal-wood 
tree,  famed  on  account  of  the  delicious  perfume  of  its  timber.  The  leaf 
of  this  tree  emits  at  every  season  of  the  year  a  powerful  and  fragrant 
perfume,  which  is  increased  by  bruising  the  leaves  in  the  hand.  Its 
leaf  is  small,  of  a  light  silvery  grey  colour,  which  is  strongly  contrasted 
by  the  dark  and  dense  evergreen  foliage  of  the  moopooroo-tree,  which 
also  adorns  the  upper  ridges  of  the  mountain  ranges.  This  beautiful 
tree  is  interesting,  as  producing  the  most  delicious  and  serviceable  fruit 
that  I  have  met  with  throughout  those  distant  parts;  the  poorer  natives 
subsisting  upon  it  for  several  months,  during  which  it  continues  in 
season.  The  moopooroo  is  of  the  size  and  shape  of  a  very  large  olive. 
It  is  at  first  green,  but,  gradually  ripening,  like  the  Indian  mango,  it 


THE    GIBAFFE    AND    ITS    HABITS.  131 

becomes  beautifully  striped  with  yellow,  and  when  perfectly  ripe  its 
colour  is  the  deepest  orange.  The  fruit  is  sweet  and  mealy,  similar  to 
the  date,  and  contains  a  small  brown  seed.  It  covers  the  branches,  and 
when  ripe  the  golden  fruit  beautifully  contrasts  with  the  dark  green 
leaves  of  the  tree  which  bears  it. 

Besides  the  moopooroo,  a  great  variety  of  fruits  are  met  with  through- 
out these  mountains  and  forests,  all  of  which  are  known  to,  and  gathered 
by,  the  natives.  I  must,  however,  forego  a  description  of  them,  as  it 
would  swell  these  pages  to  undue  bounds.  Throughout  the  densely- 
wooded  dells  and  hollows  of  the  mountains  the  rosewood-tree  occurs,  of 
considerable  size  and  in  great  abundance. 

Throughout  the  night  we  were  beset  by  a  daring  troop  of  hyaenas, 
which,  notwithstanding  the  vigilance  of  my  dogs,  consumed  a  part  of  my 
buffalo  trektow  and  also  a  number  of  straps  from  off  the  yokes.  The 
dogs  kept  up  a  loud  and  incessant  barking  until  the  day  dawned,  when 
I  shot  one  of  the  hyaenas,  and  the  rest  made  off. 

On  the  11th  we  were  in  the  yoke  soon  after  daybreak.  It  was  a 
bitterly  cold  morning,  ice  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  covering  the 
pools  of  water.  We  were  now  clear  of  the  extensive  mountain-ranges 
through  which  our  road  had  wound  since  leaving  Bakatla,  and  were 
approaching  towards  the  south-eastern  limits  of  the  great  Kalahari 
desert,  on  whose  borders  Booby  is  situated.  We  continued  our  march, 
steering  north-west ;  in  which  direction  the  distant  blue  hills  (pointed 
out  to  me  as  the  position  of  Booby)  shot  abruptly  above  the  unvaried 
sameness  of  the  intervening  forest  scenery.  To  the  west,  one  eternal 
ocean-like  expanse  of  grey  forest  stretched  away  in  a  level  and  unbroken 
plain,  terminated  only  by  the  far  horizon.  Having  performed  a  march 
of  three  hours,  we  crossed  a  small  stream,  where  I  outspanned  to  break- 
fast. 

This  day  was  to  me  rather  a  memorable  one,  as  the  first  on  which  I 
saw  and  slew  the  lofty  graceful-looking  giraffe  or  camelopard,  with 
which,  during  many  years  of  my  life,  I  had  longed  to  form  an  acquaint- 
ance. These  gigantic  and  exquisitely  beautiful  animals,  which  are 
admirably  formed  by  nature  to  adorn  the  fair  forests  that  clothe  the 
boundless  plains  of  the  interior,  are  widely  distributed  throughout  the 
interior  of  Southern  Africa,  but  are  nowhere  to  be  met  with  in  great 
numbers.  In  countries  unmolested  by  the  intrusive  foot  of  man,  the 
giraffe  is  found  generally  in  herds  varying  from  twelve  to  sixteen  ;  but 
I  have  not  unfrequently  met  with  herds  containing  thirty  individuals, 
and  on  one  occasion  I  counted  forty  together  ;  this,  however,  was  owing 
to  chance,  and  about  sixteen  may  be  reckoned  as  the  average  number  of 
a  herd.  These  herds  are  composed  of  giraffes  of  various  sizes,  from  the 
young  giraffe  of  nine  or  ten  feet  in  height,  to  the  dark  chesnut-coloured 
old  bull  of  the  herd,  whose  exalted  head  towers  above  his  companions, 
generally  attaining  to  a  height  of  upwards  of  eighteen  feet.  The  females 
are  of  lower  stature  and  more  delicately  formed  than  the  males,  their 
height  averaging  from  sixteen  to  seventeen  feet.  Some  writers  have 
discovered  ugliness  and  a  want  of  grace  in  the  giraffe,  but  I  consider 
that  he  is  one  of  the  most  strikingly  beautiful  animals  in  the  creation  ; 
and  when  a  herd  of  them  is  seen  scattered  through  a  grove  of  the 


132     HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 

picturesque  parasol-topped  acacias  which  adorn  their  native  plains,  and 
on  whose  uppermost  shoots  they  are  enabled  to  browse  by  the  colossal 
height  with  which  nature  has  so  admirably  endowed  them,  he  must 
indeed  be  slow  of  conception  who  fails  to  discover  both  grace  and  dig- 
nity in  all  their  movements. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  every  animal  is  seen  to  the  greatest 
advantage  in  the  haunts  which  nature  destined  him  to  adorn,  and 
amongst  the  various  living  creatures  which  beautify  this  fair  creation,  I 
have  often  traced  a  remarkable  resemblance  between  the  animal  and  the 
general  appearance  of  the  locality  in  which  it  is  found.  This  I  first 
remarked  at  an  early  period  of  my  life,  when  entomology  occupied  a 
part  of  my  attention.  No  person  following  this  interesting  pursuit  can 
fail  to  observe  the  extraordinary  likeness  which  insects  bear  to  the  vari- 
ous abodes  in  which  they  are  met  with.  Thus,  among  the  long  green 
grass  we  find  a  variety  of  long  green  insects,  whose  legs  and  antennae  so 
resemble  the  shoots  emanating  from  the  stalks  of  the  grass  that  it 
requires  a  practised  eye  to  distinguish  them.  Throughout  sandy  dis- 
tricts varieties  of  insects  are  met  with  of  a  colour  similar  to  the  sand 
which  they  inhabit.  Among  the  green  leaves  of  the  various  trees  of  the 
forest  innumerable  leaf-coloured  insects  are  to  be  found  ;  while,  closely 
adhering  to  the  rough  grey  bark  of  these  forest-trees,  we  observe  beauti- 
fully coloured  grey-looking  moths  of  various  patterns,  yet  altogether  so 
resembling  the  bark  as  to  be  invisible  to  the  passing  observer. 

In  like  manner  among  quadrupeds  I  have  traced  a  corresponding 
analogy,  for,  even  in  the  case  of  the  stupendous  elephant,  the  ashy 
colour  of  his  hide  so  corresponds  with  the  general  appearance  of  the 
grey  thorny  jungles  which  he  frequents  throughout  the  day,  that  a  per- 
son unaccustomed  to  hunting  elephants,  standing  on  a  commanding 
situation,  might  look  down  upon  a  herd  and  fail  to  detect  their  presence. 
And  further,  in  the  case  of  the  giraffe,  which  is  invariably  met  with 
among  venerable  forests,  where  innumerable  blasted  and  weather-beaten 
trunks  and  stems  occur,  I  have  repeatedly  been  in  doubt  as  to  the  pre- 
sence of  a  troop  of  them,  until  I  had  recourse  to  my  spyglass ;  and  on 
referring  the  case  to  my  savage  attendants,  I  have  known  even  their 
optics  to  fail,  at  one  time  mistaking  these  dilapidated  trunks  for  came- 
lopards,  and  again  confounding  real  camelopards  with  these  aged 
veterans  of  the  forest. 

Although  we  had  now  been  travelling  many  days  through  the  country 
of  the  giraffe,  and  had  marched  through  forests  in  which  their  spoor  was 
abundant,  our  eyes  had  not  yet  been  gifted  with  a  sight  of  "  Tootla '' 
himself ;  it  was  therefore  with  indescribable  pleasure  that,  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  11th,  I  beheld  a  troop  of  these  interesting  animals. 

Our  breakfast  being  finished,  I  resumed  my  journey  through  an  end- 
less grey  forest  of  cameel-dorn  and  other  trees,  the  country  slightly 
undulating,  and  grass  abundant.  A  little  before  the  sun  went  down  my 
driver  remarked  to  me,  "  I  was  just  going  to  say,  Sir,  that  that  old  tree 
was  a  camelopard." 

On  looking  where  he  pointed,  I  saw  that  the  old  tree  was  indeed  a 
camelopard,  and,  on  casting  my  eyes  a  little  to  the  right,  I  beheld  a 
troop  of  them  standing  looking  at  us,  their  heads  actually  towering 


HUNTING    THE    GIEAFFE.  133 


above  the  trees  of  the  forest.  It  was  imprudent  to  commence  a  chase 
at  such  a  late  hour,  especially  in  a  country  of  so  level  a  character,  where 
the  chances  were  against  my  being  able  to  regain  my  waggons  that 
night.  I,  however,  resolved  to  chance  everything  •  and  directing  my 
men  to  catch  and  saddle  Colesberg,  I  proceeded  in  haste  to  buckle  on 
my  shooting-belt  and  spurs,  and  in  two  minutes  I  was  in  the  saddle. 
The  giraffes  stood  looking  at  the  waggons  until  I  was  within  sixty  yards 
of  them,  when  galloping  round  a  thick  bushy  tree,  under  cover  of  which 
I  had  ridden,  I  suddenly  beheld  a  sight  the  most  astounding  that  a 
sportsman's  eye  can  encounter.  Before  me  stood  a  troop  of  ten  colossal 
giraffes,  the  majority  of  which  were  from  seventeen  to  eighteen  feet 
high.  On  beholding  me  they  at  once  made  off,  twisting  their  long  tails 
over  their  backs,  making  a  loud  switching  noise  with  them,  and  cantered 
along  at  an  easy  pace,  which,  however,  obliged  Colesberg  to  put  his  best 
foot  foremost  to  keep  up  with  them. 

The  sensations  which  I  felt  on  this  occasion  were  different  from  any- 
thing that  I  had  before  experienced  during  a  long  sporting  career.  My 
senses  were  so  absorbed  by  the  wondrous  and  beautiful  sight  before  me 
that  I  rode  along  like  one  entranced,  and  felt  inclined  to  disbelieve  that 
I  was  hunting  living  things  of  this  world.  The  ground  was  firm  and 
favourable  for  riding.  At  every  stride  I  gained  upon  the  giraffes,  and 
after  a  short  burst  at  a  swingeing  gallop  I  was  in  the  middle  of  them, 
and  turned  the  finest  cow  out  of  the  herd.  On  finding  herself  driven 
from  her  comrades  and  hotly  pursued,  she  increased  her  pace,  and  can- 
tered along  with  tremendous  strides,  clearing  an  amazing  extent  of 
ground  at  every  bound ;  while  her  neck  and  breast,  coming  in  contact 
with  the  dead  old  branches  of  the  trees,  were  continually  strewing  them 
in  my  path. 

In  a  few  minutes  I  was  riding  within  five  yards  of  her  stern,  and, 
firing  at  the  gallop,  I  sent  a  bullet  into  her  back.  Increasing  my  pace, 
I  next  rode  alongside,  and,  placing  the  muzzle  of  my  rifle  within  a  few 
feet  of  her,  I  fired  my  second  shot  behind  the  shoulder  ;  the  ball,  how- 
ever seemed  to  have  little  effect.  I  then  placed  myself  directly  in  front, 
when  she  came  to  a  walk.  Dismounting,  I  hastily  loaded  both  barrels, 
putting  in  double  charges  of  powder.  Before  this  was  accomplished  she 
was  off  at  a  canter.  In  a  short  time  I  brought  her  to  a  stand  in  the 
dry  bed  of  a  watercourse,  where  I  fired  at  fifteen  yards,  aiming  where  I 
thought  the  heart  lay,  upon  which  she  again  made  off.  Having  loaded, 
I  followed,  and  had  very  nearly  lost  her ;  she  had  turned  abruptly  to 
the  left,  and  was  far  out  of  sight  among  the  trees.  Once  more  I  brought 
her  to  a  stand,  and  dismounted  from  my  horse.  There  we  stood 
together  alone  in  the  wild  wood.  I  gazed  in  wonder  at  her  extreme 
beauty,  while  her  soft  dark  eye,  with  its  silky  fringe,  looked  down 
imploringly  at  me,  and  I  really  felt  a  pang  of  sorrow  in  this  moment  of 
triumph  for  the  blood  I  was  shedding.  Pointing  my  rifle  towards  the 
skies,  I  sent  a  bullet  through  her  neck.  On  receiving  it  she  reared  high 
on  her  hind  legs  and  fell  backwards  with  a  heavy  crash,  making  the 
earth  shake  around  her.  A  thick  stream  of  dark  blood  spouted  far  from 
the  wound,  her  colossal  limbs  quivered  for  a  moment,  and  she  expired. 

I  had  little  time  to  contemplate  the  prize  I  had  won.    Night  was  fast 


134    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

setting  in,  and  it  was  very  questionable  if  I  should  succeed  in  regaining 
my  waggons  ;  so,  having  cut  off  the  tail  of  the  giraffe,  which  was  adorned 
with  a  bushy  tuft  of  flowing  black  hair,  I  took  "one  last  fond  look,"  and 
rode  hard  for  the  spoor  of  the  waggons,  which  I  succeeded  in  reaching 
just  as  it  was  dark. 

No  pen  nor  words  can  convey  to  a  sportsman  what  it  is  to  ride  in  the 
midst  of  a  troop  of  gigantic  giraffes :  it  must  be  experienced  to  be  under- 
stood. They  emitted  a  powerful  perfume,  which  in  the  chase  came  hot 
in  my  face,  reminding  me  of  the  smell  of  a  hive  of  heather  honey  in 
September.  The  greater  part  of  this  chase  led  through  bushes  of  the 
wait-a-bit  thorn  of  the  most  virulent  description,  which  covered  my  legs 
and  arms  with  blood  long  before  I  had  killed  the  giraffe.  I  rode  as 
usual  in  the  kilt,  with  my  arms  bare  to  my  shoulder.  It  was  Chapel- 
park  of  Badenoch's  old  grey  kilt,  but  in  this  chase  it  received  a  death- 
blow which  it  never  afterwards  recovered. 

On  the  12th  we  performed  two  long  marches  through  thickly  wooded 
plains,  the  spoor  of  camelopard  being  extremely  abundant.  On  the 
13th  we  cast  loose  the  cattle  at  dawn  of  day.  Breakfast  being  finished, 
we  inspanned,  and  having  proceeded  about  eight  miles  through  the 
forest,  steering  for  a  range  of  rocky  mountains,  we  reached  a  gorge  in 
the  same.  Here  we  crossed  a  small  river;  and  having  followed  its  banks 
about  three  miles,  we  reached  Booby,  a  residence  of  Bechuanas,  being  a 
branch  of  the  tribe  of  the  Baquaines,  and  governed  by  a  subordinate 
chief,  who  was  then  absent  on  a  visit.  I  was,  however,  welcomed  by  his 
nephew,  named  Caachy,  a  man  of  pleasing  exterior  and  prepossessing 
manners,  who  shortly  afterwards  became,  and  now  is,  chief  of  that  tribe. 

As  the  manner  in  which  Caachy  succeeded  to  the  chieftainship  was 
peculiar,  I  may  here  relate  the  circumstances  attending  it.  Throughout 
all  the  Bechuana  tribes  an  absurd  belief  prevails  in  witchcraft  and  super- 
natural agencies  of  every  kind.  They  also  believe  that  for  every  trans- 
action there  is  a  medicine  which  will  enable  the  possessor  to  succeed  in 
his  object.  Thus  they  think  those  among  themselves  who  work  in  iron, 
do  so  under  the  power  of  medicine.  Their  rain-makers  by  the  power  of 
their  medicines  can  propitiate  the  friendly  clouds  during  the  protracted 
droughts  of  summer.  They  have  medicines  to  protect  them  from  the 
lightning's  stroke,  from  the  deadly  bite  of  the  viper,  and  from  the  fatal 
spring  of  the  lion.  They  further  believe  that  there  is  a  medicine  for 
guns,  the  possession  of  which  will  cause  the  gun  to  shoot  well;  and  like- 
wise one  for  the  gunpowder,  which  will  give  it  strength. 

Daring  my  visit  to  Booby  I  obtained  from  the  natives  some  interest- 
ing specimens  of  native  arms  and  other  curiosities,  for  which  they  re- 
quired gunpowder,  their  chief  having  in  his  possession  one  or  two  mus- 
kets. When  the  chief  and  his  men  proceeded  to  use  my  powder,  "they 
missed  all  they  fired  at;  the  Bechuana  mode  of  firing  being  to  withdraw 
the  face  from  the  gun,  from  a  natural  impulse  of  fear,  before  drawing 
the  trigger,  and  to  look  back  over  the  left  shoulder  instead  of  at  the 
animal  they  expect  to  kill.  The  cause  of  their  missing  they  at  once 
ascribed  to  the  powder,  which  they  affirmed  required  medicine.  Accor- 
dingly, the  chief  and  all  the  long-headed  men  in  Booby  assembled  in  the 
forum;  and  having  placed  the  unworthy  gunpowder  upon  a  large  kaross, 


SHOOTING    BABOONS.  135 

they  all  sat  round  it,  and  commenced  a  variety  of  ceremonies  and  in- 
cantations with  a  view  of  imparting  to  it  that  power  which  they  con- 
sidered it  had  lost.  At  length  some  wiseacre  among  the  soothsayers  in- 
formed the  king  that  the  presence  of  fire  was  indispensable  on  the 
occasion.  Fire  was  accordingly  introduced  along  with  the  other  medi- 
cines, and  a  censer  of  hot  embers  was  passed  frequently  over  the 
powder.  Suddenly,  however,  an  unlucky  spark  sprang  from  the  censer 
into  the  heap  of  powder,  which  of  course  instantly  exploded,  and,  the 
quantity  being  very  considerable,  the  Booby  men  and  their  chief  were 
blown  heels  over  head  on  every  side — several  of  the  party,  and  among 
others  the  chief,  being  so  severely  burnt,  that  they  shortly  died.  So 
much  for  Bechuana  medicines. 

The  kraal  of  Booby  is  encompassed  on  three  sides  by  rocky  hills, 
which  to  their  summits  are  densely  clad  with  sandal-wood  trees.  The 
sides  of  these  mountains  in  parts  are  extremely  precipitous,  and  are  the 
abodes  of  baboons  and  klipspringers.  On  the  march,  as  we  approached 
Booby,  I  took  my  rifle  and  ascended  to  the  base  of  one  of  these  preci- 
pices, where  I  shot  two  immense  baboons.  One  of  them  was  sitting  on 
the  shelf  of  a  rock  very  high  above  me  ;  and  on  receiving  the  shot  he 
fell  about  a  hundred  feet  without  a  break.  The  valleys  between  the 
mountains  are  extensively  cultivated  by  the  women,  as  also  a  large  level 
piece  of  ground  to  the  north-eastward  of  the  kraal.  The  costume  of  this 
tribe  was  the  same  I  have  already  described  as  worn  by  the  Bechuanas ; 
but  I  remarked  that  they  used  the  atrocious  mixture  of  red  clay  and 
grease  more  freely  than  their  neighbours.  The  Booby  men  flocked 
around  my  waggons,  evidently  much  gratified  with  so  novel  a  sight,  and 
continued  with  me  until  nightfall.  Shortly  after  I  reached  Booby  a 
party  of  Baquaines  arrived  from  Sichely.  They  had  been  sent  to  en- 
deavour to  dissuade  me  from  visiting  Bamangwato,  and  to  inform  me 
that  Sichely  had  ivory  and  karosses,  with  which  to  purchase  all  my 
guns  ;  and  that,  above  all,  he  wished  me  to  promise  to  reserve  my  big 
Dutch  rifle  for  him.  I  informed  these  men  that  I  was  determined  to 
visit  Sicomy,  but  that  I  would  keep  the  Dutch  rifle  for  their  chief,  as  he 
requested  it. 

Having  informed  Caachy  that  I  intended  to  march  next  day,  he  ex- 
pressed surprise,  and  said  I  made  his  heart  sore.  That  evening  there 
was  a  meeting  of  all  the  wise  men  in  Booby  to  consult  how  I  could  best  be 
prevented  from  journeying  on  to  Bamangwato.  On  the  morning  of  the 
14th  I  felt  far  from  well,  probably  having  drunk  too  much  of  Caachy 's 
beer  on  the  preceding  evening.  Before  I  was  inclined  to  turn  out,  the 
regent  with  all  his  great  men  were  standing  thick  around  my  waggons. 
I  pretended  to  be  asleep ;  so  they  kindled  fires,  around  which  they 
squatted.  Presently  I  arose,  and  gave  the  regent  his  breakfast.  I  told 
him  that  I  wished  him  to  send  men  along  with  me  to  Bamangwato.  He 
replied  that  there  was  war  in  that  country,  and  that  he  was  afraid  of 
Moselekatse.  I  then  said,  that,  though  he  would  not  give  me  men,  I 
possessed  medicine  which  would  enable  me  to  discover  the  way  without 
his  assistance  ;  and  I  informed  him  that,  if  he  persisted  in  withholding 
guides,  I  should  inform  Sicomy,  the  great  and  paramount  chief  of 
Bamangwato,  that  they  endeavoured  to  prevent  the  white  men  from 


136    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


visiting  his  domains.  Upon  this  Caachy  changed  his  story,  and  said 
that  four  men  should  accompany  me  to  Bamangwato,  and  return  with 
me.  His  plan  however  was,  that  these  men  should  guide  me  in  a  wrong 
direction  ;  and  pretending  that  the  waters  had  failed,  they  were  even- 
tually to  lead  me  to  Sichely,  who  resided  to  the  eastward  of  Booby. 
|  |  This  being  arranged,  I  gave  Caachy  some  presents,  and  requested  him 
I  to  take  charge  of  my  buffalo  and  other  heads  until  my  return,  which  he 
promised  to  do,  and  ordered  men  to  bear  them  directly  to  his  kraal. 
About  midday  we  inspanned  and  left  Booby,  accompanied  by  nearly  the 
whole  tribe,  every  man  carrying  two  or  three  assagais  and  a  battle-axe. 
They  followed  us  in  the  hope  that  I  would  shoot  large  game  for  them. 
The  guides  at  first  held  north-east;  but  presently  drawing  off  that 
course,  and  steering  due  east,  I  halted,  and  said  that  was  not  the  road 
to  Bamangwato.  They  replied,  they  held  that  course  on  account  of 
water.  I  then  directed  them  to  place  an  assagai  on  the  ground  with  its 
head  pointing  to  Bamangwato.  Thereupon  the  savages  laid  down  one 
of  their  assagais,  and,  having  pretended  for  some  minutes  to  be  discuss- 
ing among  themselves  the  exact  position  of  Bamangwato,  they  ended 
by  pointing  it  due  east,  declaring  that  Bamangwato  lay  in  that  direction. 

I  told  them  that  I  had  a  needle  in  my  pocket  which  I  had  rubbed 
with  medicine,  by  which  I  could  tell  if  their  spear  pointed  to  Sicomy's 
country.  Knowing  that  Bamangwato  lay  a  little  to  the  east  of  north,  I 
said  that  by  turning  the  needle  three  times  round  my  left  wrist  it  would 
point  a  little  to  the  left-hand  side  of  the  country  I  required.  On  hear- 
this  the  savages  looked  at  one  another  with  surprise,  and  pressed  round 
me  to  see  if  my  needle  possessed  the  power  I  represented.  Slipping  my 
fingers  into  my  shooting-belt,  I  then  pulled  out  my  pocket  compass,  and, 
passing  it  three  times  round  my  left  wrist  with  the  utmost  gravity,  I 
whistled  shrilly  ;  and  on  opening  the  compass  I  placed  it  on  the  ground 
before  them.  Snatching  one  of  their  assagais,  I  placed  it  beside  the 
compass  a  little  to  the  east  of  north,  and  told  them  that  it  was  there 
Bamangwato  lay.  They  were  struck  with  astonishment,  and  at  once 
considered  me  as  working  by  supernatural  agency. 

Having  done  this,  I  inquired  of  the  guides  if  they  would  lead  me  to 
waters  in  that  direction.  They  all  shouted  that  that  was  the  desert, 
and  that  no  man  had  ever  found  water  there.  Having  said  this,  they  all 
turned  right  about,  and,  retreating  for  about  two  hundred  yards,  they 
squatted  on  the  ground.  Isaac  and  I  then  approached  them  ;  but  they 
sat  in  silence,  and  looked  on  the  ground.  I  asked  them  why  they  all 
sat  thus.  They  answered  that  they  would  proceed  no  farther  with  me. 
I  replied  that  I  was  happy  to  hear  it,  and  that  I  could  find  the  way 
better  without  them.  I  returned  to  my  waggons,  and  ordered  my  men 
to  turn  about  and  retrace  their  steps  to  the  nearest  water.  The  savages 
then  requested  me  to  halt  and  speak  with  them.  I  told  them  to  go 
home  to  their  captain,  as  their  presence  troubled  me  ;  and  having  pro- 
ceeded a  few  hundred  yards,  I  encamped  beside  a  pool  of  water. 

It  was  plain  to  me  that  Isaac,  my  interpreter,  was  in  league  with  the 
Baquaines  in  their  designs  against  me  ;  but  as  I  did  not  intend  to  part 
with  him,  because  his  presence  gave  confidence  to  my  people,  I  deemed 
it  best  to  pretend  that  I  believed  him  to  be  sincere.    My  flesh  being  ex- 


WILDEBEESTS    AND    ZEBEAS.  137 

hausted,  I  resolved  to  halt  for  a  day  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  before 
proceeding  farther;  and  having  obtained  a  good  supply,  to  steer  through 
the  forest  by  compass  a  little  to  the  east  of  north,  and  to  search  for  water 
with  my  horses  in  advance  of  the  waggons.  I  felt  poorly  in  health,  and 
was  much  troubled  in  mind.  My  situation  was  by  no  means  an  enviable 
one.  I  was  far  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  alone  and  friendless,  surrounded 
by  a  tribe  of  men  who  would  do  anything  to  prevent  my  attaining  my 
object ;  but  fear  restrained  them  from  using  violence.  What  I  most 
dreaded  was  their  stealing  my  oxen  or  horses,  which  they  could  easily 
accomplish,  as  I  was  encamped  in  a  thick  forest;  my  men  also  were  faint- 
hearted and  anxious  to  return  towards  home. 

That  night  I  slept  little,  from  vexation  and  anxiety.  The  whole  tribe 
of  the  Booby  men  lay  encamped  beside  us.  They  lay  on  the  ground 
around  a  number  of  fires,  with  a  hedge  of  thorny  bushes  placed  in  a 
semicircle  to  windward  of  each  party.  After  breakfast  I  rode  east  to 
hunt,  accompanied  by  Kleinboy  leading  a  packhorse  ;  about  thirty  of 
the  Bechuanas  followed  us  in  the  hope  of  flesh.  Having  proceeded 
about  two  miles,  I  perceived  a  large  herd  of  blue  wildebeests  and  zebras. 
I  signed  to  the  Bechuanas  to  lie  down,  and  then  rode  slowly  forward  as 
if  to  pass  to  leeward  of  the  herd.  Having  probably  never  before  seen  a 
horseman,  they  allowed  me  to  approach  within  a  hundred  yards,  when 
I  sprang  from  my  horse,  and  with  my  first  barrel  dropped  a  fat  blue 
wildebeest.  The  Bechuanas  then  rushed  forward,  but  I  beckoned  to 
them  to  lie  down.  Having  loaded  I  galloped  in  pursuit  of  the  troop, 
and  after  riding  a  short  distance  hard  in  their  dusty  wake,  through  a 
thinly-wooded  part  of  the  forest,  I  pulled  up  and  was  on  my  feet  just  as 
the  leading  cow  wheeled  about.  I  fired  right  and  left,  and  shot  two  fat 
old  cows.  Both  ran  a  short  distance  and  fell.  The  Bechuanas  now  came 
up  with  Kleinboy,  greatly  delighted  at  my  success.  I  presented  them 
with  the  bull  and  one  of  the  cows  for  their  chief,  and  having  placed  the 
remaining  cow  upon  my  packhorse,  we  returned  to  camp. 

Here  I  found  Caachy  with  all  his  retinue :  they  had  come  out  to  en- 
deavour by  cunning  speaking  to  lead  me  astray.  Having  saluted  Caachy, 
I  said  that  J  had  yesterday  promised  to  kill  some  game  for  him,  and 
that  I  had  now  fulfilled  my  word,  upon  which  he  thanked  me.  I  then 
remarked  that  his  men  did  not  lead  me  as  Dr.  Livingstone  had  told  me 
to  ride ;  to  which  he  replied  that  the  road  was  circuitous,  and  that  they 
led  me  so  on  account  of  water.  At  length  he  had  almost  persuaded  me 
to  follow  his  guides,  but  I  said  I  would  rest  till  to-morrow,  having  de- 
termined that,  as  I  had  no  friend  whom  I  might  consult,  I  would  re- 
volve the  subject  in  my  mind  that  night,  and  determine  finally  in  the 
morning.     Caachy  then  drank  coffee  with  me  and  departed. 

In  the  evening  I  inquired  of  the  guides  concerning  the  waters  and  the 
distances  betwixt  them.  They  replied  that  the  first  water  was  a  mode- 
rate day's  journey,  but  after  that  I  must  ride  more  than  two  days  with- 
out water  :  they  also  persevered  in  pointing  to  the  east  as  my  course.  I 
now  plainly  saw  that  their  intention  was  to  lead  me  far  astray,  and 
finally  to  bring  me  to  Sichely,  their  own  paramount  chief.  I  therefore 
resolved  to  adhere  to  my  first  resolution  of  steering  my  own  course  by 


138   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

the  compass,  but  I  kept  this  intention  secret,  fearing  that  they  might 
steal  some  of  my  oxen. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


The  Guides  try  to  mislead  me — The  Cattle  and  Horses  dying  from  Thirst — Search 
for  Water — Melancholy  Anticipations — Directed  to  a  Pool  by  the  flight  of  Birds 
— Chase  and  kill  a  Giraffe — Wandering  Bechuanas  point  out  my  right  Course — 
Miserable  Condition  of  the  Natives — Game  Pitfalls — Mimosa  Grove  smashed  by 
Elephants — A  Rhinoceros  charges  me — Abundance  of  large  Game — Lost  in  the 
Forest. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th  a  large  party  of  Caachy's  men  were  still  en- 
camped beside  us,  and  were  under  the  impression  that  they  had  suc- 
ceeded in  prevailing  upon  me  to  follow  them.  Having  filled  all  my 
water-casks,  I  ordered  my  men  to  inspan,  the  Bechuanas  cracking  their 
jokes  and  fancying  that  I  should  ride  east  as  they  led  ;  but  to  their  as- 
tonishment, having  inspanned,  I  told  them  that  they  had  better  all  re- 
turn to  their  captains,  as  I  would  shoot  no  more  game  for  them,  and  I 
then  ordered  my  men  to  ride  for  a  conspicuous  tree  in  the  distance, 
bearing  N.N.E.  The  Bechuanas  sat  still  for  some  time  to  see  how  I 
would  steer,  and  presently  they  shouldered  their  assagais  and  followed 
in  our  wake.  This  was  a  bold  step  on  my  part :  the  country  looked 
very  unlikely  for  water,  and  the  Bechuanas  swore  that  there  was  none 
for  seven  day's  journey  in  that  direction. 

Our  march  lay  through  a  boundless  forest,  with  no  hill  nor  landmark 
to  give  an  idea  where  to  search  for  water.  Fortune,  however,  followed 
me  here  as  usual :  if  I  had  lived  all  my  life  in  the  country,  I  could  not 
have  taken  a  more  direct  course  for  the  spot  I  wished  to  reach.  After 
we  had  proceeded  some  miles,  a  rising  ground  arose  in  our  path,  from 
the  summit  of  which  I  fancied  that  a  view  might  be  obtained  of  the 
country  in  advance.  This  view  only  served  to  damp  my  hopes,  the  pro- 
spect exhibiting  one  slightly  undulating,  ocean-like  expanse  of  forest  and 
dense  thorny  jungles. 

We  halted  for  a  few  minutes  to  breathe  the  oxen,  when  the  Bechuanas 
all  came  up,  and  sat  down  on  the  ground  beside  us.  I  asked  them  why 
they  had  not  gone  home  as  I  had  told  them.  They  replied  that  they 
followed  me  because  they  were  afraid  that  I  should  lose  myself  and  my 
oxen.  We  held  on,  steering  by  compass  N.N.E.  All  the  Bechuanas 
now  forsook  me  except  the  four  ill-favoured  men  whom  Caachy  had 
pointed  out  to  me  as  my  guides.  These  four,  contrary  to  my  expecta- 
tions, followed  in  our  wake  at  some  distance.  I  walked  a  hundred  yards 
in  advance  of  the  waggons  with  my  compass jn  my  hand,  having  ordered 
the  men  to  follow  my  footsteps.  After  travelling  for  several  hours  the 
country  became  more  open,  and  presently  we  entered  upon  a  wide  tract 
that  had  been  recently  burned  by  the  Bakalahari,  or  wild  inhabitants  of 
the  desert.  Here  the  trees  and  bushes  stood  scorched  and  burnt,  and 
there  was  not  a  blade  of  grass  to  cheer  the  eye — blackness  and  ashes 
stretched  away  on  every  side  wherever  I  turned  my  anxious  glance.     I 


SEARCH    FOB    WATER.  139 


felt  my  heart  sink  within  me  as  I  beheld  in  dim  perspective  my  famished 
and  thirsty  oxen  returning  some  days  hence  over  this  hopeless  desert, 
all  my  endeavours  to  find  water  having  failed,  and  all  my  bright  hopes 
of  elephant-hunting  dashed  and  crowned  with  bitter  disappointment :  it 
was  indeed  a  cheerless  prospect.  I  had  no  friend  to  comfort  or  advise 
me,  and  I  could  hear  my  men  behind  me  grumbling,  and  swearing  that 
they  would  return  home ;  the  guides,  who  had  now  come  up,  asking 
them  why  they  followed  me  to  destruction. 

At  length  we  reached  the  farther  side  of  this  dreary  waste  of  ashes, 
but  now  an  equally  cheerless  prospect  was  before  me.  We  entered  a 
vast  forest,  grey  with  extreme  age,  and  so  thick  that  we  could  not  see 
forty  yards  in  advance.  We  were  obliged  occasionally  to  halt  the  wag- 
gons and  cut  down  trees  and  branches  to  admit  of  their  passing;  and  to 
make  matters  still  worse,  the  country  had  become  extremely  heavy,  the 
waggons  sinking  deep  in  soft  sand.  My  men  began  to  show  a  mutinous 
spirit  by  expressing  their  opinions  aloud  in  my  presence.  I  remon- 
strated with  them,  and  told  them  that,  if  I  did  not  bring  them  to  water 
next  day  before  the  sun  was  under,  they  might  turn  the  oxen  on  their 
spoor.  We  continued  our  march  through  this  dense  forest  until  night- 
fall, when  I  halted  for  the  night  beside  a  widespreading  tree :  here  I 
cast  my  oxen  loose  for  an  hour,  and  then  secured  them  on  the  yokes  by 
moonlight. 

I  felt  very  sad  and  unhappy  in  my  mind,  for  I  considered  that  the 
chances  were  against  me,  and  I  shuddered  at  the  idea  of  returning  to 
the  colony,  after  coming  so  very  far,  without  shooting  or  even  seeing 
what  my  heart  most  ardently  desired,  viz.  a  wild  bull  elephant  free  in 
his  native  jungle.  I  took  some  wine,  and,  coming  to  the  fire  which  the 
men  had  kindled  ior  the  night  beneath  a  magnificent  old  cameel-dorn 
tree,  I  affected  great  cheerfulness  and  contentment,  and,  laughing  at  the 
four  Bechuanas,  I  told  them  that  I  was  not  a  child  that  they  should 
lead  me  astray,  but  that  I  was  an  old  warrior  and  a  cunning  hunter,  and 
could  find  my  way  in  strange  lands.  I  laughed,  but  it  was  the  laugh  of 
despair,  for  I  expected  that  next  evening  they  would  be  laughing  at  me, 
on  seeing  me  compelled  to  retrace  my  steps.  One  of  the  greatest  diffi- 
culties that  presented  itself  was,  that,  if  I  rode  in  advance  to  search  for 
water,  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  find  my  way  back  to  the  wag- 
gons through  that  vast  and  trackless  forest.  I  went  to  bed  but  tried  in 
vain  to  sleep. 

Care  and  anxiety  kept  me  awake  until  a  little  before  morning,  when 
I  fell  asleep  for  a  short  time  and  dreamt  that  I  had  ridden  in  advance 
and  found  water.  Day  dawned,  and  I  awoke  in  sorrow.  My  hopes  were 
like  a  flickering  flame  ;  care  sat  upon  my  brow.  I  cast  loose  my  horses 
and  oxen,  and  prepared  some  breakfast ;  I  then  directed  my  men  to 
catch  "  The  Cow  "  and  "  Colesberg,"  and  give  them  some  corn.  I  asked 
the  guides  if  they  could  lead  me  to  water  in  a  northerly  direction,  when 
they  replied  that  no  man  ever  found  water  in  the  desert.  I  did  not  talk 
more  with  them,  but  ordered  my  men  to  remain  quiet  during  the  day 
and  listen  for  shots,  lest  I  should  lose  my  way  in  returning;  and  having 
given  them  ammunition  to  reply,  I  saddled  up  and  held  N.N.E.  through 
thick  forest,  accompanied  by  Kleinboy.     The  ground  was  heavy,  being 


140  HUNTING  AND   SPOETING  ADVENTUEES 


soft  sand,  and  the  grass  grew  at  intervals  in  detached  bunches.  We  rode 
on  without  a  break  or  a  change,  and  found  no  spoor  of  wild  animals  to 
give  me  hope.  I  saw  one  duiker,  but  these  antelopes  are  met  with  in 
the  desert,  and  are  independent  of  water. 

At  last  we  reached  a  more  open  part  of  the  forest,  and  emerging  from 
the  thicket  I  perceived  a  troop  of  six  giraffes  standing  looking  at  us 
about  two  hundred  yards  to  my  right ;  but  this  was  no  time  to  give 
them  chase,  which  I  felt  very  much  inclined  to  do.  I  allowed  them  to 
depart  in  peace,  and  continued  my  search  for  water.  In  this  open  glade 
I  found  two  or  three  vleys  that  had  once  contained  a  little  water,  but 
they  were  now  hard  and  dry.  Ee-entering  the  dense  forest,  we  held  one 
point  more  to  the  east,  and  rode  on  as  before,  For  miles  we  continued 
our  search,  until  my  hopes  sank  to  a  very  low  ebb;  and  Kleinboy  swore 
that  we  should  never  regain  the  waggons.  At  length  I  perceived  a 
sassayby  walking  before  me  :  this  antelope  drinks  every  day  ; — (i  fresh 
vigour  with  the  hope  returned."  I  once  more  pressed  forward  and 
cantered  along,  heedless  of  the  distance  which  already  intervened  be- 
twixt me  and  my  camp  and  the  remonstrances  of  my  attendant,  who  at 
last  reigned  up  his  jaded  steed,  and  said  that  he  would  not  follow  me 
farther  to  my  own  destruction.  I  then  pointed  to  the  top  of  a  distant 
"grey  tree  that  stretched  its  bare  and  weather-beaten  branches  above  the 
heads  of  its  surrounding  comrades,  and  said,  that,  if  we  saw  nothing  to 
give  us  hope  when  we  reached  that  tree,  I  would  abandon  the  search, 
and  hunt  during  that  season  in  Sichely's  mountains  to  the  east  of  Booby. 

But  fate  had  ordained  that  I  should  penetrate  farther  into  the  interior 
of  Africa ;  and  before  I  reached  the  old  grey  tree  I  observed  a  small 
flight  of  Namaqua  partridges  flying  across  my  path  in  a  westerly  direc- 
tion. It  was  impossible  to  tell,  until  I  should  see  a  second  flock  of 
these,  flying  at  a  different  angle,  whether  the  first  flock  had  come  from, 
or  were  going  to,  water.  For  this  I  accordingly  watched,  nor  watched 
long  in  vain.  A  considerable  distance  ahead  of  me  I  detected  a  second 
flight  of  these  birds  likewise  flying  westerly  ;  and  it  was  evident,  from 
their  inclination,  that  they  held  for  the  same  point  as  the  first  had  done. 
Shortly  afterwards  the  first  flight  returned,  flying  high  above  our  heads, 
uttering  their  soft  melodious  cry  of  "  pretty  dear,  pretty  dear."  I  then 
rode  in  the  direction  from  which  the  birds  had  come,  and  before  pro- 
ceeding far  we  discovered  a  slight  hollow  running  north  and  south. 
This  I  determined  to  follow,  and  presently  I  discovered  fresh  spoor  of  a 
rhinoceros  :  this  was  a  certain  sign  that  water  was  somewhere  not  very 
distant. 

Once  more  my  dying  hopes  revived.  I  looked  north  at  the  glorious 
sky,  which  on  this  day  was  quite  different  from  anything  I  had  beheld 
for  months.  It  was  like  one  of  those  glorious  days  when  the  bright  blue 
sky  in  my  own  dark  land  is  seen  through  ten  thousand  joyous  fleecy 
clouds,  and  all  nature  seems  to  strive  in  its  sunny  hour  to  make  poor 
unhappy  man  forget  his  cares  and  sorrows.  I  took  it  as  a  favourable 
omen,  and,  stirring  my  good  and  lively  steed,  I  cantered  along  the 
glade.  The  hollow  took  a  turn,  on  rounding  which  I  perceived  that  I 
was  in  an  elevated  part  of  the  forest ;  and  I,  for  the  first  time,  obtained 
a  distant  view  of  the  surrounding  scenery.     Far  as  the  eye  could  strain 


TREACHERY    OF    THE    GUIDES.  141 


it  was  all  forest  without  a  break ;  but  there  was  now  an  undulating 
country  before  me,  instead  of  the  hopeless  level  through  which  I  had 
come.  I  felt  certain  of  success.  We  soon  discovered  vleys  that  had 
recently  contained  water ;  and  at  last  a  large  pool  of  excellent  water, 
enough  to  supply  my  cattle  for  several  days.  This  was  to  me  a  joyous 
moment ;  it  was  a  grand  step  towards  attaining  my  object,  and,  as  my 
difficulties  had  seemed  to  increased,  my  wish  and  determination  to  over- 
come them  had  become  stronger.  I  knew  that,  whether  I  reached 
Bamangwato  or  not,  if  I  could  now  only  manage  to  travel  north  about 
eight  days'  journey  I  should  fall  in  with  elephants. 

I  was  extremely  fortunate  in  regaining  my  waggons,  which  I  did 
without  a  turn  in  my  course.  On  reaching  them  I  at  first  pretended 
not  to  have  discovered  water ;  and  I  said  to  the  guides,  "  There  is 
nothing  but  dense  wood  in  this  country  ;  can  you  not  show  me  water  1 
my  oxen  will  die."  They  replied  that  they  knew  the  country  from  in- 
fancy, and  that  if  I  wanted  water  I  must  travel  till  sunset,  steering 
south  of  east.  I  then  surprised  them  by  saying,  "  Now  I  see  that  you 
wish  to  lead  me  astray  •  for  I  have  seen  abundance  of  water,  and  I  will 
find  my  way  to  Bamangwato,  though  you  do  all  in  your  power  to  pre- 
vent me."  Having  inspanned,  we  held  for  the  water,  which  I  succeeded 
in  reaching  at  a  late  hour.  I  still  felt  very  anxious  and  full  of  care  ; 
but  this  first  bold  and  successful  step  seemed  to  have  made  a  strong  im- 
pression on  the  guides,  who  still  followed  in  our  wake.  It  appeared  to 
me  that  the  orders  they  had  received  from  their  chief  were,  to  endeavour 
to  lead  me  astray,  and  bring  me  to  Sichely ;  but  that,  in  the  event  of  my 
finding  the  way  myself,  they  were  to  accompany  me  to  Sicomy  to 
ensure  his  friendship  and  to  convince  him  of  their  chief's  sincerity. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  shortly  after  the  day  dawned,  I  was 
lying  awake  thinking  whether  I  should  hunt  or  explore  the  country  in 
advance,  my  men  having  as  usual  wasted  their  food  and  already  con- 
sumed the  bull  wildebeest  which  I  had  shot  for  them  two  days 
previously,  when  suddenly  I  heard  the  voices  of  men  a  little  distance 
down  the  glade.  Fortune  seemed  determined  to  favour  me.  The 
guides,  who  sat  by  our  fire,  had  not  heard  the  voices ;  if  they  had  been 
aware  of  men  being  near  us  they  would  have  run  to  meet  them,  and 
warned  them  to  lead  me  astray.  Springing  from  my  bed,  I  hastily 
donned  my  attire,  and,  proceeding  in  the  direction  of  the  voices,  I  dis- 
covered a  party  of  ten  Bechuanas  squatted  round  a  fire  which  they  had 
just  kindled.  These  men  belonged  to  Booby  ;  they  had  been  hunting 
jackals  at  a  place  called  Bootlonamy,  which  is  halfway  from  Booby  to 
Bamangwato,  and  they  were  now  returning  home  with  their  spoils. 
They  at  once  pointed  out  to  me  the  correct  line  of  march  for  Bamang- 
wato, and  advised  me  of  a  fine  vley  in  the  forest  one  march  in  advance. 

Having  breakfasted,  I  inspanned,  and  after  trekking  for  about  six 
hours  through  dense  forest  we  reached  the  vley.  On  the  march  it  was 
necessary  to  have  constant  recourse  to  our  axes  to  clear  a  path  for  the 
waggons.  I  was  much  delighted  with  the  little  loch  to  which  we  then 
came :  it  covered  about  an  acre,  in  shape  a  circle,  and  its  margin  was 
imprinted  with  the  fresh  spoor  of  a  variety  of  wild  animals,  such  as 
giraffe,  rhinoceros,   buffalo,    sassayby,    pallah,    zebra,    lion,   etc.      We 

9 


142  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

encamped  beneath  two  wide-spreading  shady  trees,  and  I  at  once  saddled 
up,  and  rode  forth  with  Kleinboy  to  hunt,  our  flesh  being  at  an  end. 
I  had  ridden  about  half  a  mile  in  a  north-easterly  course,  through  shady 
groves  of  mokala-trees,  when  suddenly  I  observed  a  stately  giraffe  walk 
slowly  across  my  path,  and  crop  the  leaves  from  the  upper  branches  of 
a  mokala-tree  about  a  hundred  yards  in  advance  This  was  a  fine  look- 
out :  with  hasty  hand  I  shifted  my  saddle  from  "  Sunday  "  to  the  Old 
Grey,  and  ordering  Kleinboy  to  set  the  packsaddle  on  "Sunday,"  and 
listen  for  shots,  I  rode  slowly  towards  the  giraffe. 

As  I  advanced  I  perceived  another  giraffe  standing  looking  at  me  a 
little  to  my  left,  which  gave  the  alarm  by  starting  off,  when  I  stirred  my 
steed,  and  on  rounding  an  intervening  clump  of  trees  I  came  full  in 
sight  of  a  troop  of  eight  giraffes,  cantering  before  me.  In  another 
minute  I  was  in  the  middle  of  them ;  and  selecting  a  fine  fat  cow,  I  rode 
hard  at  her,  and  fired  my  first  shot  at  the  gallop.  She  got  it  through 
her  ribs,  and  the  blood  flowed  freely.  Again  and  again  I  broke  her 
from  the  troop,  and  again  she  joined  them.  At  length  I  fired  my 
second  shot  at  her  stern ;  after  which,  by  heading  her,  I  brought  her  to 
a  stand,  when  I  sprang  from  the  fidgety,  snorting  Old  Grey,  and,  hastily 
loading  both  barrels,  I  fired  right  and  left  for  her  heart.  Her  colossal 
frame  shook  convulsively  for  a  few  seconds,  when,  tottering  forward, 
she  subsided  in  the  dust  with  tremendous  violence. 

Four  signal-shots  brought  Kleinboy  and  the  packhorse,  and  also  Isaac 
with  the  four  guides.  The  chase  was  all  in  thick  forest,  and  had  led  me 
to  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  waggons.  The  hungry  guides 
seemed  enchanted  at  the  prospect  of  such  a  banquet.  They  at  once 
kindled  a  fire,  and  slept  that  night  beside  the  carcase.  I  returned  to 
the  waggons  with  my  horses  laden  with  flesh.  My  mind  was  now  once 
more  at  rest.  I  went  to  my  bed  and  slept  soundly.  During  the  night 
lions  roared  around  us. 

On  the  19th  I  rose  at  dawn  of  day,  and  took  a  stroll  through  the 
forest.  Here  I  found  some  old  dung  of  elephants  ;  and  observing 
several  full-grown  trees  torn  up  by  the  roots,  and  others  that  had  been 
shivered  by  the  gigantic  strength  of  those  animals.  The  guides,  finding 
that  they  prevailed  nothing,  at  length  volunteered  to  lead  me  to 
Bamangwato  by  a  northerly  course,  and  promised  that  I  should  not  lack 
for  water.  We  inspanned,  and  held  on  till  sundown,  proceeding  in  a 
north-easterly  course,  when  we  halted  in  dense  forest  without  water. 
Our  march  lay  through  an  interesting  country  well  adapted  for  hunting 
the  eland  and  giraffe.  The  forest  was  in  many  places  thin  and  open, 
with  here  and  there  gigantic  old  trees  of  picturesque  appearance  stand- 
ing detached,  some  half-dead,  and  others  falling  to  pieces  from  age. 
The  soil  was  soft  yet  firm,  and  admirably  suited  for  riding.  The  spoor 
of  eland  and  giraffe  was  abundant. 

On  the  20th  we  inspanned  at  dawn  of  day,  and  having  proceeded 
about  five  miles  we  reached  a  miserable  little  kraal  or  village  of  Baka- 
lahari.  Here  was  a  vley  of  water,  beside  which  we  outspanned.  Starva- 
tion was  written  in  the  faces  of  these  inhabitants  of  the  forest.  In  their 
vicinity  were  a  few  small  gardens,  containing  water-melons  and  a  little 
corn.     Occasionally  they  have  the  luck  to  capture  some  large  animal  in 


GIKAFFE    PITFALLS.  143 

a  pitfall,  when  for  a  season  they  live  in  plenty.  But  as  they  do  not 
possess  salt,  the  flesh  soon  spoils,  when  they  are  compelled  once  more  to 
roam  the  forest  in  quest  of  fruits  and  roots,  on  which,  along  with 
locusts,  they  in  a  great  measure  subsist.  In  districts  where  game  is 
abundant,  they  often  construct  their  pits  on  a  large  scale,  and  erect 
hedges  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  extending  to  nearly  a  mile  on  either 
side  of  the  pit.  By  this  means  the  game  may  easily  be  driven  into  the 
pitfalls,  which  are  carefully  covered  over  with  thin  sticks  and  dry 
grass ;  and  thus  whole  herds  of  zebras  and  wildebeests  are  massacred  at 
once,  which  capture  is  followed  by  the  most  disgusting  banquets,  the 
poor  starving  savages  gorging  and  surfeiting '  in  a  manner  worthy  only 
of  the  vulture  or  hyaena.  They  possess  no  cattle,  and,  if  they  did,  the 
nearest  chief  would  immediately  rob  them.  All  that  part  of  the 
country  abounded  with  the  pitfalls  made  by  these  and  others  of  the 
Bakalahari.  Many  of  these  had  been  dug  expressly  for  the  giraffe,  and 
were  generally  three  feet  wide,  and  ten  long ;  their  depth  was  from 
nine  to  ten  feet.  They  were  placed  in  the  path  of  the  Oamelopard,  and 
in  the  vicinity  of  several  of  these  we  detected  the  bones  of  giraffes,  in- 
dicating the  success  that  had  attended  their  formation. 

At  midday  we  resumed  our  march,  halting  at  sunset  without  water. 
The  first  of  this  march  lay  through  dense  forest,  where  we  were  obliged 
to  cut  a  pathway  with  our  axes.  Here  the  spoor  of  eland  was  abundant. 
In  the  evening  we  passed  through  an  open  tract  very  thinly  wooded, 
where  I  saw  abundance  of  springbok  and  blue  wildebeest.  At  mid- 
night the  dogs  giving  chase  to  some  animal,  I  sprang  out  of  bed ;  and 
following  them  in  my  shirt,  I  found  them  standing  over  a  jackal.  The 
guides  skinned  him,  and,  having  baked  him  in  the  ashes,  they  consumed 
him. 

On  the  22nd,  ordering  my  men  to  move  on  to  the  fountain  of  Bootlo- 
namy,  I  rode  forth  with  Ruyter,  and  held  east  through  a  grove  of  lofty 
and  widespreading  mimosas,  most  of  which  were  more  or  less  damaged 
by  the  gigantic  strength  of  a  troop  of  elephants,  which  had  passed  there 
about  twelve  months  before.  Having  proceeded  about  two  miles  with 
large  herds  of  game  on  every  side,  I  observed  a  crusty -looking  old  bull 
borel6,  or  black  rhinoceros,  cocking  his  ears  one  hundred  yards  in  ad- 
vance. He  had  not  observed  us ;  and  soon  after  he  walked  slowly 
towards  us,  and  stood  broadside  to,  eating  some  wait-a-bit  thorns  within 
fifty  yards  of  me.  I  fired  from  my  saddle,  and  sent  a  bullet  in  behind 
his  shoulder,  upon  which  he  rushed  forward  about  one  hundred  yards 
in  tremendous  consternation,  blowing  like  a  grampus,  and  then  stood 
looking  about  him.  Presently  he  made  off.  I  followed,  but  found  it 
hard  to  come  up  with  him.  When  I  overtook  him  I  saw  the  blood  run- 
ning freely  from  his  wound. 

The  chase  led  through  a  large  herd  of  blue  wildebeests,  zebras,  and 
springboks,  which  gazed  at  us  in  utter  amazement.  At  length  I  fired 
my  second  barrel,  but  my  horse  was  fidgety,  and  I  missed.  I  continued 
riding  alongside  of  him,  expecting  in  my  ignorance  that  at  length  he 
would  come  to  bay,  which  rhinoceroses  never  do;  when  suddenly  he  fell 
flat  on  his  broadside  on  the  ground,  but,  recovering  his  feet,  resumed 
his  course  as  if  nothing  had  happened.      Becoming  at  last  annoyed  at 


144  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


the  length  of  the  chase,  as  I  wished  to  keep  my  horses  fresh  for  the  ele- 
phants, and  being  indifferent  whether  I  got  the  rhinoceros  or  not,  as  I 
observed  that  his  horn  was  completely  worn  down  with  age  and  the 
violence  of  his  disposition,  I  determined  to  bring  matters  to  a  crisis ;  so, 
spurring  my  horse,  I  dashed  ahead,  and  rode  right  in  his  path. 

Upon  this  the  hideous  monster  instantly  charged  me  in  the  most  re- 
solute manner,  blowing  loudly  through  his  nostrils ;  and  although  I 
quickly  wheeled  about  to  my  left,  he  followed  me  at  such  a  furious  pace 
for  several  hundred  yards,  with  his  horrid  horny  snout  within  a  few 
yards  of  my  horse's  tail,  that  my  little  bushman,  who  was  looking  on  in 
great  alarm,  thought  his  master's  destruction  inevitable.  It  was  cer- 
tainly a  very  near  thing ;  my  horse  was  extremely  afraid,  and  exerted 
his  utmost  energies  on  the  occasion.  The  rhinoceros,  however,  wheeled 
about  and  continued  his  former  course  ;  and  I,  being  perfectly  satisfied 
with  the  interview  which  I  had  already  enjoyed  with  him,  had  no  desire 
to  cultivate  his  acquaintance  any  further,  and  accordingly  made  for 
camp.  We  left  the  fountain  of  Bootlonamy  the  same  day,  and  marched 
about  six  miles  through  an  old  grey  forest  of  mimosas,  when  we  halted 
for  the  night.  Large  flocks  of  guinea-fowls  roosted  in  the  trees  around 
our  encampment,  several  of  which  I  shot  for  my  supper. 

On  the  23rd  we  inspanned  by  moonlight,  and  continued  our  march 
through  a  thinly-wooded  level  country.  It  was  a  lovely  morning ;  the 
sun  rose  in  great  splendour,  and  the  sky  was  beautifully  overcast  with 
clouds.  Having  proceeded  about  ten  miles,  the  country  became  thickly 
covered  with  detached  forest-trees  and  groves  of  wait-a-bit  thorns.  The 
guides  now  informed  us  that  the  water,  which  is  called  by  the  Bechu- 
anus  "  Lepeby,"  was  only  a  short  distance  in  advance ;  upon  which  I 
saddled  steeds,  and  rode  ahead  with  the  Bushman,  intending  to  hunt  for 
an  hour  before  breakfast.  Presently  we  reached  an  open  glade  in  the 
forest,  where  I  observed  a  herd  of  zebras  in  advance  ;  and  on  my  left 
stood  a  troop  of  springboks,  with  two  leopards  watching  them  from  be- 
hind a  bush.  I  rode  on,  and  soon  fell  in  with  a  troop  of  hartebeests, 
and,  a  little  after,  with  a  large  herd  of  blue  wildebeests  and  pallahs.  I 
followed  these  for  some  distance,  when  they  were  reinforced  by  two 
other  herds  of  pallahs  and  wildebeests.  Three  black  rhinoceroses  now 
trotted  across  my  path.  Presently  I  sprang  from  my  horse,  and  fired 
right  and  left  at  a  princely  bull  blue  wildebeest.  He  got  both  balls,  but 
did  not  fall ;  and  I  immediately  lost  sight  of  him  in  the  dense  ranks  of 
his  shaggy  companions. 

The  game  increased  as  we  proceeded,  until  the  whole  forest  seemed 
alive  with  a  variety  of  beautifully  coloured  animals.  On  this  occasion  I 
was  very  unfortunate ;  I  might  have  killed  any  quantity  of  game  if  veni- 
son had  been  my  object ;  but  I  was  trying  to  get  a  few  very  superior 
heads  of  some  of  the  master  bucks  of  the  pallahs.  Of  these  I  wounded 
four  select  old  bucks,  but  in  the  dust  and  confusion  caused  by  the  innu- 
merable quantity  of  the  game  I  managed  to  lose  them  all. 

We  had  now  ridden  many  miles  from  the  waggons ;  and  feeling  faint 
from  want  of  food,  I  dropped  the  chase  in  disgust,  and,  without  looking 
at  my  compass,  ordered  the  Bushman  to  go  ahead.  My  attention  had 
been  so  engrossed  with  the  excitement  of  the  pursuit,  that  I  had  not 


LOSE    OUE    WAY.  145 

the  remotest  idea  of  the  course  I  had  taken,  and  the  whole  country  exhi- 
bited such  an  aspect  of  sameness,  that  there  was  no  landmark  nor  emin- 
ence of  any  description  by  which  to  steer.  Having  ridden  many  miles 
through  the  forest,  I  at  length  asked  the  Bushman,  in  whom  on  such 
occasions  I  generally  placed  great  confidence,  if  he  was  sure  he  was  rid- 
ing in  the  right  direction,  and,  as  he  appeared  quite  confident,  I  allowed 
him  to  proceed. 

At  length  he  said  that  we  had  gone  a  little  too  far  to  the  left,  and  led 
me  away  several  miles  to  the  right,  which  was  westerly  ;  whereas  the 
waggons  eventually  proved  to  be  a  long  way  to  the  east.  I  felt  con- 
vinced that  we  were  wrong,  and,  reining  up,  a  discussion  arose  between 
us,  the  Bushman  still  maintaining  that  we  must  ride  west,  whilst  I  was 
certain  that  our  course  should  be  east.  I  now  adopted  my  own  opinion, 
and,  having  ridden  many  miles  in  an  easterly  direction,  we  were  at  one 
time  close  upon  the  waggons,  when  the  thick-headed  Bushman  declared 
that  if  I  persevered  we  should  never  see  the  waggons  again,  and  I  with 
equal  stupidity,  yielded  to  his  advice,  and  a  south-westerly  course  was 
once  more  adopted.  Having  ridden  for  many  miles,  I  again  reined  up, 
and  again  told  the  Bushman  we  were  wrong  •  upon  which  he  for  the 
first  time  acknowledged  that  he  knew  nothing  at  all  about  the  matter, 
but  stated  it  to  be  his  impression  that  we  ought  to  ride  farther  to  the 
west.  My  head  was  so  confused  that  I  lost  all  recollection  of  how  we 
had  ridden ;  and  while  I  was  deliberating  what  I  should  do,  I  observed 
a  volume  of  smoke  a  long  way  to  the  north,  which  I  at  once  imagined 
had  been  kindled  by  my  followers  to  guide  their  lost  master  *to  the 
waggons. 

With  revived  spirits,  I  stirred  my  jaded  steed  and  made  for  the 
smoke ;  but,  alas  !  this  only  served  to  lead  me  farther  astray.  After 
riding  many  miles  in  that  direction,  I  discovered  that  the  fire  was  at  an 
amazing  distance,  and  could  not  have  been  kindled  by  my  men  ;  it  was 
the  wild  Bakalahari  of  the  desert  burning  the  old  dry  grass.  I  was  now 
like  a  seaman  in  a  hurricane — at  my  wit's  end — I  knew  not  how  to  ride 
nor  what  to  do.  The  sun,  which  had  just  risen  when  I  left  the  waggons, 
was  about  to  set.  There  was  no  landmark  whatever  by  which  to  steer ; 
I  might  wander  for  days,  and  not  discover  water. 

To  find  the  waggons  was  comparatively  a  trifle.  I  thought  little  of 
them ;  it  was  the  thought  of  water  that  harrowed  my  mind.  Already 
the  pangs  of  thirst  began  to  seize  me.  I  had  ridden  all  day,  under  the 
hot  sun,  and  had  neither  eaten  nor  drunk  since  early  the  preceding 
evening.  I  felt  faint  and  weary ;  and  my  heart  sank  as  horrible  visions 
of  a  lingering  death  by  maddening  thirst  arose  before  me.  Dismounting 
from  my  horse,  I  sat  down  to  think  what  I  should  do.  I  knew  exactly 
by  my  compass  the  course  we  had  been  steering  since  we  left  Booby.  I 
accordingly  resolved  to  ride  south-west  for  many  miles,  the  course  of  the 
waggons  having  been  north-east,  and  then  to  send  Ruyter  across  the 
country  a  little  to  the  north  of  west,  while  I  should  hold  a  correspond- 
ing course  in  an  easterly  direction.  By  this  means  one  of  us  could  not 
fail  to  find  the  spoor,  and  I  arranged  that  at  nightfall  we  should  meet  at 
some  conspicuous  tree.  Having  thus  resolved,  I  mounted  my  horse, 
which  was  half  dead  with  thirst  and  fatigue,  and,  having  ridden  south- 


146  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTUEES. 

west  for  several  miles,  I  and  Ruyter  separated  at  a  conspicuous  tree, 
and  rode  in  opposite  directions.  Before  riding  far  I  recognised  the  coun- ' 
try  as  being  the  spot  where  I  had  seen  the  leopards  in  the  morning.  I 
at  once  followed  Ruyter,  and  fired  several  signal  shots,  which  he  fortu- 
nately heard,  and  soon  joined  me.  We  then  rode  due  east,  and  eventu- 
ally, to  my  inexpressible  gratification,  we  discovered  the  spoor  of  the 
waggons,  which  we  reached  after  following  it  for  about  four  miles  in  a 
north-easterly  direction. 

Our  poor  horses  were  completely  exhausted,  and  could  barely  walk 
to  camp.  I  found  my  waggons  drawn  up  beside  the  strong  fountain  of 
Lepeby,  which,  issuing  from  beneath  a  stratum  of  white  tufous  rock, 
formed  an  extensive  deep  pool  of  pure  water,  adorned  on  one  side  with 
lofty  green  reeds.  This  fountain  was  situated  at  the  northern  extremity 
of  a  level  bare  vley,  surrounded  by  dense  covers  of  the  wait-a-bit  thorns. 
Such  a  peculiar  sameness  characterized  the  country,  that  a  person 
wandering  only  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  fountain  would  have  con- 
siderable difficulty  in  regaining  it.  It  was  night  when  I  reached  the 
waggons,  and  two  or  three  cups  of  coffee  soon  restored  me  to  my  wonted 
vigour. 

On  the  following  morning,  from  earliest  dawn  until  we  trekked, 
which  we  did  about  ten  a.m.,  large  herds  of  game  kept  pouring  in  to 
drink  from  every  side,  completely  covering  the  open  space,  and  impart- 
ing to  it  the  appearance  of  a  cattle-fair ;  blue  wildebeests,  zebras, 
sassaybys,  pallahs,  springboks,  etc.,  capered  fearlessly  up  to  the  water, 
troop  after  troop,  within  two  hundred  yards  of  us.  In  former  years  a 
tribe  of  Bechuanas  had  frequented  this  fountain,  and  I  beheld  the 
skeletons  of  many  rhinoceroses  and  of  one  elephant  bleaching  in  the 
sun  ;  but  the  powerful  and  cruel  Matabili  had  attacked  the  tribe,  and 
driven  them  to  seek  a  home  elsewhere.  I  shot  a  pallah  and  a  wilde- 
beest, which  we  secured  behind  the  waggons.  About  ten  A.M.  we  in- 
spanned,  and  within  a  mile  of  Lepeby  we  passed  through  another 
similar  open  vley,  containing  a  strong  fountain  of  delicious  water.  We 
continued  our  march  till  sundown  through  an  undulating  open  country, 
thinly  covered  with  detached  trees  and  thorny  bushes,  and  encamped  in 
a  sandy  desert  without  water. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


The  Bamangwato  Mountains — The  Elephants'  Fountain — A  troop  of  colossal 
Giraffes — Elephants  drinking  by  Night — Habits  of  the  African  Elephant — 
Elephant  Hunt — A  Bull  shot  after  a  dangerous  Encounter — Cutting  out  the 
Tusks — Extraordinary  Rocks — Mountain-retreat  of  Sicomy,  King  of  Bamang- 
wato— His  Cunning — Barter  Muskets  for  Ivory — His  Majestj^'s  curious  Gun- 
practice — Trading  for  Native  Weapons. 

On  the  25th,  at  dawn  of  day,  we  inspanned,  and  trekked  about  five 
hours  in  a  north-easterly  course,  through  a  boundless  open  country 
sparingly  adorned  with  dwarfish  old  trees.  In  the  distance  the  long- 
sought  mountains  of  Bamangwato  at  length  loomed  blue  before  me.  We 
halted  beside  a  glorious  fountain,  which  at  once  made  me  forget  all  the 


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A    TEOOP    OF    GIRAFFES.  147 


cares  and  difficulties  I  had  encountered  in  reaching  it.  The  name  of  this 
fountain  was  Massouey,  but  I  at  once  christened  it  "the  Elephant's  own 
Fountain."  This  was  a  very  remarkable  spot  on  the  southern  borders  of 
endless  elephant  forests,  at  which  I  had  at  length  arrived.  The  foun- 
tain was  deep  and  strong,  situated  in  a  hollow  at  the  eastern  extremity 
of  an  extensive  vley,  and  its  margin  was  surrounded  by  a  level  stratum 
of  solid  old  red  sandstone.  Here  and  there  lay  a  thick  layer  of  soil 
upon  the  rock,  and  this  was  packed  flat  with  the  fresh  spoor  of 
elephants.  Around  the  water's  edge  the  very  rock  was  worn  down  by 
the  gigantic  feet  which  for  ages  had  trodden  there. 

The  soil  of  the  surrounding  country  was  white  and  yellow  sand,  but 
grass,  trees,  and  bushes  were  abundant.  From  the  borders  of  the  foun- 
tain a  hundred  well-trodden  elephant  footpaths  led  away  in  every  direc- 
tion, like  the  radii  of  a  circle.  The  breadth  of  these  paths  was  about 
three  feet ;  those  leading  to  the  northward  and  east  were  the  most  fre- 
quented, the  country  in  those  directions  being  well  wooded.  We  drew 
up  the  waggons  on  a  hillock  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  water.  This 
position  commanded  a  good  view  of  any  game  that  might  approach  to 
drink.  I  had  just  cooked  my  breakfast,  and  commenced  to  feed,  when 
I  heard  my  men  exclaim,  "  Almagtig  keek  de  ghroote  clomp  cameel ;  " 
and,  raising  my  eyes  from  my  sassaby  stew,  I  beheld  a  truly  beautiful 
and  very  unusual  scene.  From  the  margin  of  the  fountain  there  ex- 
tended an  open  level  vley,  without  a  tree  or  bush,  that  stretched  away 
about  a  mile  to  the  northward,  where  it  was  bounded  by  extensive 
groves  of  wide-spreading  mimosas. 

Up  the  middle  of  this  valey  stalked  a  troop  of  ten  colossal  giraffes, 
flanked  by  two  large  herds  of  blue  wildebeests  and  zebras,  with  an  ad- 
vanced guard  of  pallahs.  They  were  all  coming  to  the  fountain  to  drink, 
and  would  be  within  rifle-shot  of  the  waggons  before  I  could  finish  my 
breakfast.  I  however  continued  to  swallow  my  food  with  the  utmost 
expedition,  having  directed  my  men  to  catch  and  saddle  Colesberg.  In 
a  few  minutes  the  giraffes  were  slowly  advancing  within  two  hundred 
yards,  stretching  their  graceful  necks,  and  gazing  in  wonder  at  the  un- 
wonted waggons.  Grasping  my  rifle,  I  now  mounted  Colesberg,  and 
rode  slowly  towards  them.  They  continued  gezing  at  the  waggons  until 
I  was  within  one  hundred  yards  of  them,  when,  whisking  their  long  tails 
over  their  rumps,  they  made  off  at  an  easy  canter.  As  I  pressed  upon 
them  they  increased  their  pace  ;  but  Colesberg  had  much  the  speed  of 
them,  and  before  we  had  proceeded  half  a  mile  I  was  riding  by  the 
shoulder  of  the  dark-chestnut  old  bull,  whose  head  towered  high  above 
the  rest. 

Letting  fly  at  the  gallop,  I  wounded  him  behind  the  shoulder ;  soon 
after  which  I  broke  him  from  the  herd,  and  presently,  going  ahead  of 
him,  he  came  to  a  stand.  I  then  gave  him  a  second  bullet,  somewhere 
near  the  first.  These  two  shots  had  taken  effect,  and  he  was  now  in  my 
power,  but  I  would  not  lay  him  low  so  far  from  camp,  so,  having  waited 
until  he  had  regained  his  breath,  I  drove  him  half-way  back  towards  the 
waggons.  Here  he  became  obstreperous  ;  so,  loading  one  barrel,  and 
pointing  my  rifle  towards  the  clouds,  I  shot  him  in  the  throat,  when, 
rearing  high,  he  fell  backwards  and  expired.     This  was  a  magnificent 


148  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


specimen  of  the  giraffe,  measuring  upwards  of  eighteen  feet  in  height. 
I  stood  for  nearly  half  an  hour  engrossed  in  the  contemplation  of  his  ex- 
treme beauty  and  gigantic  proportions ;  and,  if  there  had  been  no 
elephants,  I  could  have  exclaimed,  like  Duke  Alexander  of  Gordon 
when  he  killed  the  famous  old  stag  with  seventeen  tine,  "Now  I  can  die 
happy."  But  I  longed  for  an  encounter  with  the  noble  elephants,  and  I 
thought  little  more  of  the  giraffe  than  if  I  had  killed  a  gemsbok  or  an 
eland. 

In  the  afternoon  I  removed  my  waggons  to  a  correct  distance  from 
the  fountain,  and  drew  them  up  among  some  bushes  about  four  hundred 
yards  to  leeward  of  the  water.  In  the  evening  I  was  employed  in  manu- 
facturing hardened  bullets  for  the  elephants,  using  a  composition  of  one 
of  pewter  to  four  of  lead  ;  and  I  had  just  completed  my  work  when  we 
heard  a  troop  of  elephants  splashing  and  trumpeting  in  the  water.  This 
was  to  me  a  joyful  sound  ;  I  slept  little  that  night. 

On  the  26th  I  arose  at  earliest  dawn,  and  having  fed  four  of  my 
horses  I  proceeded  with  Isaac  to  the  fountain  to  examine  the  spoor  of  the 
elephants  which  had  drunk  there  during  the  night.  A  number  of  the 
paths  contained  fresh  spoor  of  elephants  of  all  sizes,  which  had  gone 
from  the  fountain  in  different  directions.  We  reckoned  that  at  least 
thirty  of  these  gigantic  quadrupeds  had  visited  the  water  during  the 
night, 

We  hastily  returned  to  camp,  where,  having  breakfasted,  I  saddled 
up,  and  proceeded  to  take  up  the  spoor  of  the  largest  bull  elephant,  ac- 
companied by  after-riders  and  three  of  the  guides  to  assist  in  spooring. 
I  was  also  accompanied  by  my  dogs.  Having  selected  the  spoor  of  a 
mighty  bull,  the  Bechuanas  went  ahead,  and  I  followed  them.  It  was 
extremely  interesting  and  exciting  work.  The  foot-print  of  this  elephant 
was  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  was  beautifully  visible  in  the  soft 
sand.  The  spoor  at  first  led  us  for  about  three  miles  in  an  easterly 
direction,  along  one  of  the  sandy  footpaths,  without  a  check.  We  then 
entered  a  very  thick  forest,  and  the  elephant  had  gone  a  little  out  of 
the  path  to  smash  some  trees,  and  to  plough  up  the  earth  with  his  tusks. 
He  soon,  however,  again  took  the  path,  and  held  along  it  for  several 
miles. 

We  were  on  rather  elevated  ground,  with  a  fine  view  of  a  part  of  the 
Bamangwato  chain  of  mountains  before  us.  Here  the  trees  were  large 
and  handsome,  but  not  strong  enough  to  resist  the  inconceivable  strength 
of  the  mighty  monarchs  of  these  forests.  Almost  every  tree  had  half  its 
branches  broken  short  by  them,  and  at  every  hundred  yards  I  came 
upon  entire  trees,  and  these  the  largest  in  the  forest,  uprooted  clean  out 
of  the  ground,  or  broken  short  across  their  stems.  I  observed  several 
large  trees  placed  in  an  inverted  position,  having  their  roots  uppermost 
in  the  air.  Our  friend  had  here  halted,  and  fed  for  a  long  time  upon  a 
large  wide-spreading  tree  which  he  had  broken  short  across  within  a  few 
feet  of  the  ground.  After  following  the  spoor  some  distance  farther 
through  the  dense  mazes  of  the  forest,  we  got  into  ground  so  thickly 
trodden  by  elephants  that  we  were  baffled  in  our  endeavours  to  trace 
the  spoor  any  farther  ;  and  after  wasting  several  hours  in  attempting  by 


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5 


MY    FIRST    ELEPHANT.  149 

casts  to  take  up  the  proper  spoor,  we  gave  it  rip,  and  with  a  sorrowful 
heart  I  turned  my  horse's  head  towards  camp. 

Having  reached  the  waggons,  while  drinking  my  coffee  I  reviewed  the 
whole  day's  work,  and  felt  much  regret  at  my  want  of  luck  in  my  first 
day's  elephant  hunting,  and  I  resolved  that  night  to  watch  the  water, 
and  try  what  could  be  done  with  elephants  by  night-shooting.  I  accord- 
ingly ordered  the  usual  watching-hole  to  be  constructed ;  and  having 
placed  my  bedding  in  it,  repaired  thither  shortly  after  sundown.  I  had 
lain  about  #  two  hours  in  the  hole,  when  I  heard  a  low  rumbling  noise 
like  distant  thunder,  caused  (as  the  Bechuanas  affirmed),  by  the  bowels 
of  the  elephants  which  were  approaching  the  fountain.  I  lay  on  my 
back,  with  my  mouth  open,  attentively  listening,  and  could  hear  them 
ploughing  up  the  earth  with  their  tusks.  Presently  they  walked  up  to 
the  water,  and  commenced  drinking  within  fifty  yards  of  me.  They  ap- 
proached with  so  quiet  a  step,  that  I  fancied  it  was  the  footsteps  of 
jackals  which  I  heard ;  and  I  was  not  aware  of  their  presence  until  I 
heard  the  water,  which  they  had  drawn  up  in  their  trunks  and  were 
pouring  into  their  mouths,  dropping  into  the  fountain.  I  then  peeped 
from  my  sconce  with  a  beating  heart,  and  beheld  two  enormous  bull  ele- 
phants, which  looked  like  two  great  castles,  standing  before  me.  I  could 
not  see  very  distinctly,  for  there  was  only  starlight.  Having  lain  on  my 
breast  some  time  taking  my  aim,  I  let  fly  at  one  of  the  elephants,  using 
the  Dutch  rifle  carrying  six  to  the  pound.  The  ball  told  loudly  on  his 
shoulder,  and  uttering  a  loud  cry  he  stumbled  through  the  fountain, 
when  both  made  off  in  different  directions. 

All  night  large  herds  of  zebras  and  blue  wildebeests  capered  around 
me,  coming  sometimes  within  a  few  yards.  Several  parties  of  rhin- 
oceroses also  made  their  appearance.  I  felt  a  little  apprehensive  that 
lions  might  visit  the  fountain,  and  every  time  that  hyaenas  or  jackals 
lapped  the  water  I  looked  forth,  but  no  lions  appeared.  At  length  I  fell 
into  a  sound  sleep,  nor  did  I  again  raise  my  head  until  the  bright  star  of 
morn  had  shot  far  above  the  eastern  horizon. 

Before  proceeding  further  with  my  narrative,  it  may  here  be  interest- 
ing to  make  a  few  remarks  on  the  African  elephant  and  his  habits.  The 
elephant  is  widely  diffused  through  the  vast  forests,  and  is  met  with  in 
herds  of  various  numbers.  The  male  is  very  much  larger  than  the 
female,  consequently  much  more  difficult  to  kill.  He  is  provided  with 
two  enormous  tusks.  These  are  long,  tapering,  and  beautifully  arched; 
their  length  averages  from  six  to  eight  feet, s and  they  weigh  from  sixty 
to  a  hundred  pounds  each.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  equator  the  elephants 
attain  to  a  greater  size  than  to  the  southward ;  and  I  am  in  the  posses- 
sion of  a  pair  of  tusks  of  the  African  bull  elephant,  the  larger  of  which 
measures  ten  feet  nine  inches  in  length,  and  weighs  one  hundred  and 
seventy-three  pounds.  The  females,  unlike  Asiatic  elephants  in  this  re- 
spect, are  likewise  provided  with  tusks.  The  price  which  the  largest 
ivory  fetches  in  the  English  market  is  from  £28  to  £32  per  hundred  and 
twelve  pounds. 

Old  bull  elephants  are  found  singly  or  in  pairs,  or  consorting  to- 
gether in  small  herds,  varying  from  six  to  twenty  individuals.  The 
younger  bulls  remain  for  many  years  in  the  company  of  their  mothers, 


150     HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


and  these  are  met  together  in  large  herds  of  from  twenty  to  a  hundred 
individuals.  The  food  of  the  elephant  consists  of  the  branches,  leaves, 
and  roots  of  trees,  and  also  of  a  variety  of  bulbs,  of  the  situation  of 
which  he  is  advised  by  his  exquisite  sense  of  smell.  To  obtain  these  he 
turns  up  the  ground  with  his  tusks,  and  whole  acres  may  be  seen  thus 
ploughed  up.  Elephants  consume  an  immense  quantity  of  food,  and 
pass  the  greater  part  of  the  day  and  night  in  feeding.  Like  the  whale 
in  the  ocean,  the  elephant  on  land  is  acquainted  with,  and  roams  over, 
wide  and  extensive  tracts.  He  is  extremely  particular  in  always  fre- 
quenting the  freshest  and  most  verdant  districts  of  the  forest;  and  when 
one  district  is  'parched  and  barren,  he  will  forsake  it  for  years  and 
wander  to  great  distances  in  quest  of  better  pasture. 

The  elephant  entertains  an  extraordinary  horror  of  man,  and  a  child 
can  put  a  hundred  of  them  to  flight  by  passing  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to 
windward ;  and  when  thus  disturbed,  they  go  a  long  way  before  they 
halt.  It  is  surprising  how  soon  these  sagacious  animals  are  aware  of  the 
presence  of  a  hunter  in  their  domains.  When  one  troop  has  been 
attacked,  all  the  other  elephants  frequenting  the  district  are  aware  of 
the  fact  within  two  or  three  days,  when  they  all  forsake  it,  and  migrate 
to  distant  parts,  leaving  the  hunter  no  alternative  but  to  inspan  his 
waggons,  and  remove  to  fresh  ground.  This  constitutes  one  of  the 
greatest  difficulties  which  a  skilful  elephant-hunter  encounters.  Even  in 
the  most  remote  parts,  which  may  be  reckoned  the  head-quarters  of  the 
elephant,  it  is  only  occasionally,  and  with  inconceivable  toil  and  hard- 
ships, that  the  eye  of  the  hunter  is  cheered  by  the  sight  of  one.  Owing 
to  habits  peculiar  to  himself,  the  elephant  is  more  inaccessible,  and 
much  more  rarely  seen,  than  any  other  game  quadruped,  excepting  cer- 
tain rare  antelopes.  They  choose  for  their  resort  the  most  lonely  and 
secluded  depths  of  the  forest,  generally  at  a  very  great  distance  from 
the  rivers  and  fountains  at  which  they  drink.  In  dry  and  warm  weather 
they  visit  these  waters  nightly  ;  but  in  cool  and  cloudy  weather  they 
drink  only  once  every  third  or  fourth  day. 

About  sundown  the  elephant  leaves  his  distant  midday  haunt,  and 
commences  his  march  towards  the  fountain,  which  is  probably  from 
twelve  to  twenty  miles  distant.  This  he  generally  reaches  between  the 
hours  of  nine  and  midnight ;  when,  having  slaked  his  thirst  and  cooled 
his  body  by  spouting  large  volumes  of  water  over  his  back  with  his 
trunk,  he  resumes  the  path  to  his  forest  solitudes.  Having  reached  a 
secluded  spot,  I  have  remarked  that  full-grown  bulls  lie  down  on  their 
broadsides,  about  the  hour  of  midnight,  and  sleep  for  a  few  hours.  The 
spot  which  they  usually  select  is  an  anthill,  and  they  lie  around  it  with 
their  backs  resting  against  it;  these  hills,  formed  by  the  white  ants,  are 
from  thirty  to  forty  feet  in  diameter  at  their  base.  The  mark  of  the 
under  tusk  is  always  deeply  imprinted  in  the  ground,  proving  that  they 
lie  upon  their  sides.  I  never  remarked  that  females  had  thus  lain 
down,  and  it  is  only  in  the  more  secluded  districts  that  the  bulls  adopt 
this  practice ;  for  I  observed  that,  in  districts  where  the  elephants  were 
liable  to  frequent  disturbance,  they  took  repose  standing  on  their  legs 
beneath  some  shady  tree. 


A    HERD    OF    ELEPHANTS.  151 

Having  slept,  they  then  proceed  to  feed  extensively.  Spreading  out 
from  one  another,  and  proceeding  in  a  zigzag  course,  they  smash  and 
destroy  all  the  finest  trees  in  the  forest  which  happen  to  lie  in  their 
course.  The  number  of  goodly  trees  which  a  herd  of  bull  elephants  will 
thus  destroy  is  utterly  incredible.  They  are  extremely  capricious,  and 
on  coming  to  a  group  of  five  or  six  trees  they  break  down  not  unfre- 
quently  the  whole  of  them,  when,  having  perhaps  only  tasted  one  or 
two  small  branches,  they  pass  on  and  continue  their  wanton  work  of 
destruction.  I  have  repeatedly  ridden  through  forests  where  the  trees 
thus  broken  lay  so  thick  across  one  another  that  it  was  almost  impos- 
sible to  ride  through  the  district ;  and  it  is  in  situations  such  as  these 
that  attacking  the  elephant  is  attended  with  most  danger.  During  the 
night  they  will  feed  in  open  plains  and  thinly  wooded  districts  ;  but  as 
day  dawns,  they  retire  to  the  densest  covers  within  reach,  which  nine 
times  in  ten  are  composed  of  the  impracticable  wait-a-bit  thorns ;  and 
here  they  remain  drawn  up  in  a  compact  herd  during  the  heat  of  the 
day.  In  remote  districts,  however,  and  in  cool  weather,  I  have  known 
herds  to  continue  pasturing  throughout  the  whole  day. 

The  appearance  of  the  wild  elephant  is  inconceivably  majestic  and 
imposing.  His  gigantic  height  and  colossal  bulk,  so  greatly  surpassing 
all  other  quadrupeds,  combined  with  his  sagacious  disposition  and 
peculiar  habits,  impart  to  him  an  interest  in  the  eyes  of  the  hunter 
which  no  other  animal  can  call  forth.  The  pace  of  the  elephant  when 
undisturbed  is  a  bold,  free,  sweeping  step;  and  from  the  peculiar  spongy 
formation  of  his  foot,  his  tread  is  extremely  light  and  inaudible,  and  all 
his  movements  are  attended  with  a  peculiar  gentleness  and  grace.  This, 
however,  only  applies  to  the  elephant  when  roaming  undisturbed  in  his 
jungle  ;  for  when  roused  by  the  hunter,  he  proves  the  most  dangerous 
enemy,  and  far  more  difficult  to  conquer  than  any  other  beast  of  chace. 

On  the  27th,  as  day  dawned,  I  left  my  shooting-hole,  and  proceeded 
to  inspect  the  spoor  of  my  wounded  elephant.  After  following  it  for 
some  distance  I  came  to  an  abrupt  hillock,  and,  fancying  that  from  the 
summit  a  good  view  might  be  obtained  of  the  surrounding  country,  I 
left  my  followers  to  seek  the  spoor,  while  I  ascended.  I  did  not  raise 
my  eyes  from  the  ground  until  I  had  reached  the  highest  pinnacle  of 
rock.  I  then  looked  east,  and  to  my  inexpressible  gratification  I  beheld 
a  troop  of  nine  or  ten  elephants  quietly  browsing  within  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  of  me.  I  allowed  myself  only  one  glance  at  them,  and  then  rushed 
down  to  warn  my  followers  to  be  silent.  A  council-of-war  was  hastily 
held,  the  result  of  which  was  my  ordering  Isaac  to  ride  hard  to  camp, 
with  instructions  to  return  as  quickly  as  possible,  accompanied  by  Klein- 
boy,  and  to  bring  me  my  dogs,  the  large  Dutch  rifle,  and  a  fresh  horse. 
I  once  more  ascended  the  hillock  to  feast  my  eyes  upon  the  enchanting 
sight  before  me;  and,  drawing  out  my  spyglass,  I  narrowly  watched  the 
motions  of  the  elephants.  The  herd  consisted  entirely  of  females, 
several  of  which  were  followed  by  small  calves. 

Presently,  on  reconnoitring  the  surrounding  country,  I  discovered  a 
second  herd,  consisting  of  five  bull  elephants,  which  were  quietly  feeding 
about  a  mile  to  the  northward.   The  cows  were  feeding  towards  a  ro'cky 


152    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

ridge  that  stretched  away  from  the  base  of  the  hillock  on  which  I  stood. 
Burning  with  impatience  to  commence  the  attack,  I  resolved  to  try  the 
stalking-system  with  these,  and  to  hunt  the  troop  of  bulls  with  dogs  and 
horses.  Having  thus  decided,  I  directed  the  guides  to  watch  the  ele- 
phants from  the  summit  of  the  hillock,  and  with  a  beating  heart  I 
approached  them.  The  ground  and  wind  favouring  me,  I  soon  gaineci 
the  rocky  ridge  towards  which  they  were  feeding.  They  were  now 
within  one  hundred  yards,  and  I  resolved  to  enjoy  the  pleasure  of 
watching  their  movements  for  a  little  before  I  fired.  They  continued 
to  feed  slowly  towards  me,  breaking  the  branches  from  the  trees  with 
their  trunks,  and  eating  the  leaves  and  tender  shoots.  I  soon  selected 
the  finest  in  the  herd,  and  kept  my  eye  on  her  in  particular.  At  length 
two  of  the  troop  had  walked  slowly  past  at  about  sixty  yards,  and  the 
one  which  I  had  selected  was  feeding  with  two  others  on  a  thorny  tree 
before  me. 

My  hand  was  now  as  steady  as  the  rock  on  which  it  rested,  so,  taking 
a  deliberate  aim,  I  let  fly  at  her  head  a  little  behind  the  eye.  She  got 
it  hard  and  sharp,  just  where  I  aimed,  but  it  did  not  seem  to  effect  her 
much.  Uttering  a  loud  cry,  she  wheeled  about,  when  1  gave  her  the 
second  ball,  close  behind  the  shoulder.  All  the  elephants  uttered  a 
strange  rumbling  noise,  and  made  off  in  a  line  to  the  northward  at  a 
brisk  ambling  pace,  their  huge  fanlike  ears  flapping  in  the  ratio  of  their 
speed.  I  did  not  wait  to  load,  but  ran  back  to  the  hillock  to  obtain  a 
view. 

On  gaining  its  summit  the  guides  pointed  out  the  elephants ;  they 
were  standing  in  a  grove  of  shady  trees,  but  the  wounded  one  was  some 
distance  behind  with  another  elephant,  doubtless  its  particular  friend, 
who  was  endeavouring  to  assist  it.  These  elephants  had  probably  never 
before  heard  the  report  of  a  gun ;  and,  having  neither  seen  nor  smelt 
me,  they  were  unaware  of  the  presence  of  man,  and  did  not  seem  in- 
clined to  go  any  farther.  Presently  my  men  hove  in  sight,  bringing 
the  dogs  ;  and  when  these  came  up  I  waited  some  time  before  com- 
mencing the  attack,  that  the  dogs  and  horses  might  recover  their  wind. 
We  then  rode  slowly  towards  the  elephants,  and  had  advanced  within 
two  hundred  yards  of  them  when,  the  ground  being  open,  they  observed 
us,  and  made  off  in  an  easterly  direction ;  but  the  wounded  one 
immediately  dropped  astern,  and  next  moment  she  was  surrounded  by 
the  dogs,  which,  barking  angrily,  seemed  to  engross  her  attention. 

Having  placed  myself  between  her  and  the  retreating  troop,  I 
dismounted  to  fire  within  forty  yards  of  her,  in  open  ground.  Colesberg 
was  extremely  afraid  of  the  elephants,  and  gave  me  much  trouble, 
jerking  my  arm  when  I  tried  to  fire.  At  length  I  let  fly ;  but,  on 
endeavouring  to  regain  my  saddle,  Colesberg  declined  to  allow  me  to 
mount ;  and  when  I  tried  to  lead  him,  and  run  for  it,  he  only  backed 
towards  the  wounded  elephant.  At  this  moment  I  heard  another 
elephant  close  behind;  and  on  looking  about  I  beheld  the  "friend," 
with  uplifted  trunk,  charging  down  upon  me  at  top  speed,  shrilly 
trumpeting  and  following  an  old  black  pointer  named  Schwart,  that 
was  perfectly  deaf,  and  trotted  along  before  the  enraged  elephant  quite 


MY    FIRST    ELEPHANT.  153 

unaware  di  what  was  behind  him.  I  felt  certain  that  she  would  have 
either  me  or  my  horse.  I  however  determined  not  to  relinquish  my 
steed,  but  to  hold  on  by  the  bridle. 

My  men,  who  of  course  kept  at  a  safe  distance,  stood  aghast  with 
their  mouths  open,  and  for  a  few  seconds  my  position  was  certainly  not 
an  enviable  one.  Fortunately,  however,  the  dogs  took  off  the  attention 
of  the  elephants  ;  and  just  as  they  were  upon  me  I  managed  to  spring 
into  the  saddle,  where  I  was  safe.  As  I  turned  my  back  to  mount,  the 
elephants  were  so  very  near  that  I  really  expected  to  feel  one  of  their 
trunks  lay  hold  of  me.  I  rode  up  to  Kleinboy  for  my  double-barrelled 
two-grooved  rifle  :  he  and  Isaac  were  pale  and  almost  speechless  with 
fright.  Returning  to  the  charge,  I  was  soon  once  more  alongside,  and, 
firing  from  the  saddle,  I  sent  another  brace  of  bullets  into  the  wounded 
elephant.  Colesberg  was  extremely  unsteady,  and  destroyed  the 
correctness  of  my  aim. 

The  friend  now  seemed  resolved  to  do  some  mischief,  and  charged 
me  furiously,  pursuing  me  to  a  distance  of  several  hundred  yards.  I 
therefore  deemed  it  proper  to  give  her  a  gentle  hint  to  act  less  officiously, 
and  accordingly,  having  loaded,  I  approached  within  thirty  yards,  and 
gave  it  her  sharp,  right  and  left,  behind  the  shoulder,  upon  which  she 
at  once  made  off  with  drooping  trunk,  evidently  with  a  mortal  wound. 
I  never  recur  to  this  my  first  day's  elephant-shooting  without  regretting 
my  folly  in  contenting  myself  with  securing  only  one  elephant.  The 
first  was  now  dying,  and  could  not  leave  the  ground,  and  the  second 
was  also  mortally  wounded,  and  I  had  only  to  follow  and  finish  her ; 
but  I  foolishly  allowed  her  to  escape,  while  I  amused  myself  with  the 
first,  which  kept  walking  backwards,  and  standing  by  every  tree  she 
passed.  Two  more  shots  finished  her  :  on  receiving  them  she  tossed 
her  trunk  up  and  down  two  or  three  times,  and,  falling  on  her  broadside 
against  a  thorny  tree,  which  yielded  like  grass  before  her  enormous 
weight,  she  uttered  a  deep  hoarse  cry  and  expired.  This  was  a  very 
handsome  old  cow  elephant,  and  was  decidedly  the  best  in  the  troop. 
She  was  in  excellent  condition,  and  carried  a  pair  of  long  and  perfect 
tusks. 

I  was  in  high  spirits  at  my  success,  and  felt  so  perfectly  satisfied  with 
having  killed  one,  that,  although  it  was  still  early  in  the  day,  and  my 
horses  were  fresh,  I  allowed  the  troop  of  five  bulls  to  remain  unmolested, 
foolishly  trusting  to  fall  in  with  them  next  day.  How  little  did  I  then 
know  of  the  habits  of  elephants,  or  the  rules  to  be  adopted  in  hunting 
them,  or  deem  it  probable  I  should  never  see  them  more  ! 

Having  knee-haltered  our  horses,  we  set  to  work  with  our  knives  and 
assagais  to  prepare  the  skull  for  the  hatchet,  in  order  to  cut  out  the  tusks, 
nearly  half  the  length  of  which,  I  may  mention,  is  embedded  in  bone 
sockets  in  the  fore  part  of  the  skull.  To  cut  out  the  tusks  of  a  cow 
elephant  requires  barely  one-fifth  of  the  labour  requisite  to  cut  out  those 
of  a  bull ;  and  when  the  sun  went  down  we  had  managed  by  our  com- 
bined efforts  to  cut  out  one  of  the  tusks  of  my  first  elephant,  with  which 
we  triumphantly  returned  to  camp,  having  left  the  guides  in  charge  of 
the  carcase,  where  they  volunteered  to  take  up  their  quarters  for  the 


154    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


night.  On  reaching  my  waggons  I  found  Johannus  and  Carollus  in  a 
happy  state  of  indifference  to  all  passing  events ;  they  were  both  very 
drunk,  having  broken  into  my  wine-cask  and  spirit-case. 

On  the  28th  I  arose  at  an  early  hour,  and,  burning  with  anxiety 
to  look  forth  once  more  from  the  summit  of  the  hillock  which  the  day 
before  brought  me  such  luck,  I  made  a  hasty  breakfast,  and  rode  thither 
with  after-riders  and  my  dogs.  But,  alas !  I  had  allowed  the  golden 
opportunity  to  slip.  This  day  I  sought  in  vain ;  and  although  I  often 
again  ascended  to  the  summit  of  my  favourite  hillock  on  that  and  on  the 
succeeding  year,  my  eyes  were  destined  never  again  to  hail  from  it  a 
troop  of  elephants. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  I  proceeded  to  inspect  the  sandy  foot- 
paths leading  from  the  fountain,  and  at  once  discovered  the  spoor  of 
two  mighty  bull  elephants  that  had  drunk  there  during  the  night. 
These  I  followed,  but  did  not  succeed  in  coming  up  with  the  objects  of 
my  search. 

We  were  now  within  two  days'  march  of  the  kraal  of  the  great  chief 
Sicomy,  king  of  the  extensive  territory  of  Bamangwato.  This  chief  was 
reported  to  be  in  the  possession  of  large  quantities  of  ivory  ;  and  as  I 
had  brought  a  number  of  muskets  and  other  articles  for  barter,  I  was 
anxious  to  push  on,  and  first  get  over  my  trading  before  resuming 
elephant-hunting ;  more  especially  since  it  was  not  improbable  that, 
having  once  led  the  way,  other  adventurers  might  follow  in  my  track, 
and  perhaps  spoil  my  market.  Taking  this  into  consideration,  I  deemed 
it  proper  on  the  morning  of  the  30th  to  march  upon  the  kraal  of 
Sicomy  ;  and  accordingly,  about  10  A.M.  we  inspanned,  and  held  for  the 
Bamangwato  mountains,  whose  summits  we  could  see  peering  above  the 
intervening  forest  in  an  easterly  direction.  On  our  march  we  passed 
near  to  the  carcase  of  the  elephant  which  I  had  slain  three  days  before. 
The  number  of  vultures  which  were  here  congregated  was  truly  wonder- 
ful. My  guides  had  baked  a  part  of  the  trunk  and  two  of  the  feet  of 
the  elephant,  and  these  they  now  brought  to  the  waggons. 

It  was  ever  to  me  a  source  of  great  pleasure  to  reflect  that,  while 
enriching  myself  in  following  my  favourite  pursuit  of  elephant-hunting, 
I  was  feeding  and  making  happy  the  starving  families  of  hundreds  of 
the  Bechuana  and  Bakalahari  tribes,  who  invariably  followed  in  my 
waggons,  and  assisted  me  in  my  hunting,  in  numbers  varying  from  fifty 
to  two  hundred  at  a  time.  These  men  were  often  accompanied  by  their 
wives  and  families,  and  when  an  elephant,  hippopotamus,  or  other  large 
animal  was  slain,  all  hands  repaired  to  the  spot,  when  every  inch  of  the 
animal  was  reduced  to  biltongue,  viz.,  cut  into  long  narrow  strips,  and 
hung  in  festoons  upon  poles,  and  dried  in  the  sun  :  even  the  entrails 
were  not  left  for  the  vultures  and  hyaenas,  and  the  very  bones  were 
chopped  to  pieces  with  their  hatchets  to  obtain  the  marrow,  with  which 
they  enriched  their  soup. 

On  the  following  morning,  which  was  the  1st  of  July,  we  inspanned  at 
dawn  of  day,  and  late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Lesausau,  having 
performed  an  extremely  arduous  and  fatiguing  march.  Our  route 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  day  lay  through  dense  jungle  and  thorny 


SICOMY'S    WAERIOKS.  155 


thickets,  where  it  was  necessary  to  clear  a  way  with  our  axes  before  the 
waggons  could  pass.  The  ground  also  was  in  many  places  extremely 
rocky,  and  threatened  the  destruction  of  my  wheels  and  axletrees, 
causing  us  much  labour,  it  being  indispensable  to  remove  the  masses  of 
rock  to  one  side.  As  we  neared  Lesausau,  we  entered  upon  a  broad 
level  strath,  adorned  throughout  its  length  and  breadth  with  a  variety  of 
picturesque  acacia  and  other  trees,  which  stood  at  intervals  as  if  they 
had  been  planted  by  the  hand  of  man.  On  either  side,  the  mountains 
rose  abruptly  from  the  plain,  and  they  now  assumed  a  very  bold  and 
striking  appearance,  their  sides  and  summits  consisting  of  huge  masses 
of  rock  piled  one  above  another,  some  of  which  seemed  so  balanced  upon 
their  exalted  and  narrow  pedestals, 

"  As  if  an  infant's  touch  could  urge 
Their  headlong  passage  down  the  verge. " 

A  light  and  feathery  fringe  of  dwarfish  trees  and  varieties  of  gigantic 
cacti  adorned  the  sides  and  upper  ridges  of  these  rugged  mountains,  and 
as  we  proceeded,  I  observed  finely  wooded  wild  ravines,  stretching  aWay 
into  the  bosom  of  the  mountains. 

Here  we  were  joined  by  three  of  Sicomy's  men,  who  informed  us  that 
they  were  in  daily  apprehension  of  an  attack  from  the  Matabili,  who 
they  heard  were  marching  against  them.  In  consequence  of  this, 
Sicomy  and  all  his  tribe  had  forsaken  their  kraals,  and  were  now  living 
in  wild  caves  and  other  secluded  retreats  in  the  sides  and  on  the 
summits  of  these  rocky  mountains.  They  led  us  round  the  base  of  a 
bold  projecting  rock,  and  then  up  a  wild  and  well-wooded  rocky  ravine, 
bearing  no  traces  of  men.  On  raising  our  eyes,  however,  we  perceived 
the  summits  of  the  rocks  covered  with  women  and  children,  and  very 
soon  detached  parties  of  Sicomy's  warriors  came  pouring  in  from 
different  directions,  to  gaze  upon  the  white  man,  I  being  the  first 
that  many  of  them  had  seen.  These  men  were  all  armed  and  ready  for 
action,  each  bearing  an  oval  shield  of  ox,  buffalo,  or  camelopard's  hide, 
a  battle-axe,  and  three  or  four  assagais.  They  wore  karosses  of  jackal's 
and  leopard's  skins,  which  depended  gracefully  from  their  shoulders  : 
and  many  of  them  sported  a  round  tuft  of  black  ostrich-feathers  on  their 
heads,  while  others  had  adorned  their  woolly  hair  with  one  or  two  wavy 
plumes  of  white  ones.  Both  men  and  women  wore  abundance  of  the 
usual  ornaments  of  beads  and  brass  and  copper  wire. 

We  were  presently  met  by  a  messenger  from  Sicomy,  saying  that 
the  king  was  happy  we  had  arrived,  and  that  he  would  shortly  come 
to  see  me.  We  proceeded  up  the  bold  and  narrow  ravine  of  Lesausau, 
as  far  as  it  was  practicable,  the  water  being  situated  at  its  upper 
extremity.  Soon  after  we  had  encamped  Sicomy  drew  nigh,  accom- 
panied by  a  large  retinue  of  his  principal  men  and  warriors.  He  appear- 
ed to  me  to  be  about  thirty  years  of  age,  and  was  of  middle  stature. 
His  distinguishing  feature  is  a  wall-eye,  which  imparts  to  his  countenance 
a  roguish  look  that  does  not  belie  the  cunning  and  deceitful  character  of 
the  man.  As  he  came  up  to  the  waggons  I  met  and  shook  hands  with 
him,  and  invited  him  to  partake  of  coffee  with  me.     I  could  see  that  he 


156     HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

was  enchanted  at  my  arrival.  He  talked  at  a  very  rapid  pace,  and 
assumed  an  abrupt  and  rather  dictatorial  manner,  occasionally  turning 
round  and  cracking  jokes  with  his  councillors  and  nobility.  He  was 
very  anxious  to  ascertain  from  Isaac  the  contents  of  the  waggons,  and 
he  said  that  he  would  buy  everything  I  had  brought,  and  that  he  would 
give  me  a  large  bull  elephant's  tusk  for  each  of  my  muskets. 

This  was  a  fishing  remark  to  hear  what  I  should  say;  so  I  replied  that 
the  muskets  cost  many  teeth  in  my  own  country,  and  that  I  had  not 
stolen  them.  I  had  resolved  to  maintain  a  firm  and  independent  man- 
ner in  my  dealings  with  him,  treating  him  at  the  same  time  with  the 
utmost  affability.  I  told  him  that  other  men  feared  to  come  so  far  to 
trade  with  him,  but  that  his  friend  Dr.  Livingstone  had  directed  me  to 
come,  and  had  sent  him  a  present  by  me.  I  then  gave  him  Dr.  Livingstone's 
present,  with  a  similar  one  from  myself,  consisting  of  beads,  snuff,  and 
ammunition.  It  amused  me  to  observe  the  timid  and  cringing  de- 
meanour of  the  men  of  Booby  when  seated  in  the  presence  of  the  king. 
Approaching  him  with  the  utmost  humility,  they  saluted  him  by  stretch- 
ing out  their  hands  and  clapping  the  palms  together,  saying  at  the  same 
time  : 

"  Rumela,  cosi,"  signifying,  Hail,  king !  which  his  majesty  was 
graciously  pleased  to  acknowledge  by  squinting  at  them  with  his  cock- 
eye, and  saying  "  Eh,"  which  is  the  invariable  Bechuana  acknowledge- 
ment of  a  salutation.  Often,  however,  when  I  saluted  the  natives,  they 
acknowledged  my  salutation  by  saying  "Eh!  keitumela,  cosi  a  Machoa;" 
signifying,  "Eh  !  thank  you,  king  of  the  white  men."  Having  saluted 
the  king,  the  Booby  men  at  once  proceeded  to  expatiate  upon  the  diffi- 
culty they  had  had  in  prevailing  upon  the  great  white  man  to  visit  his 
dominions,  and  the  meritorious  manner  in  which  they  had  conducted  me 
thither;  for  which  the  king  expressed  his  gratitude,  and  ordered 
"boyalwa,"  or  native  beer,  to  be  placed  before  them.  Sicomy  remained 
long  at  the  waggons,  engaged  in  deep  and  constant  conversation  with 
my  interpreter  and  several  of  his  elder  councillors,  and  at  a  late  hour  he 
departed,  promising  to  visit  us  early  on  the  following  day.  Eearing  that 
any  of  his  people  might  come  and  trade  with  me  during  his  absence,  the 
king  instructed  his  uncle  Mutchuisho,  with  a  retinue,  to  remain  beside 
the  waggons  during  the  night. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning  the  king  made  his  appear- 
ance, attended  by  a  number  of  his  warriors,  all  carrying  their  battle- 
gear.  I  was  still  in  bed,  and  seeing  the  king  peeping  into  my  waggon 
I  pretended  to  be  asleep.  Presently  I  observed  a  savage  coming  up  the 
glen  bearing  on  his  shoulders  a  bull-elephant's  tooth,  which  he  laid 
under  the  waggon.  Coffee  was  now  announced,  so  I  arose,  and  the  king 
breakfasted  with  me.  I  had  resolved  to  say  as  little  as  possible  about 
the  trading,  and  to  appear  very  indiflerent,  a  system  indispensable  in 
trading  with  the  natives,  which  at  all  times  progresses  slowly,  but  much 
more  so  if  the  trader  allows  them  to  imagine  that  he  is  very  anxious  to 
obtain  possession  of  their  goods. 

In  trading  with  the  Bechuanas  the  most  difficult  point  is  agreeing 
about  the  price  of  any  article  in  the  first  instance ;  and  often  when  trad- 


TRADING    FOR    IVORY.  157 


has  once  commenced,  and  the  natives  are  satisfied  with  the  price,  ex- 
changes are  effected  rapidly.  ■  It  is  generally  necessary  for  the  trader  to 
ask  a  little  more  than  he  expects  to  get,  that  he  may  appear  to  yield  to 
their  importunity,  otherwise  they  would  not  deal  with  him.  They  never 
conclude  a  bargain  in  a  hurry,  and  always  deem  it  necessary  to  ask  the 
advice  of  nearly  every  one  present  before  they  can  make  up  their  minds ; 
and  if  it  should  happen  that  any  one  individual  present  disapprove  of 
the  bargain,  the  exchange  is  for  the  time  at  an  end. 

I  have  more  than  once  been  prevented  from  effecting  a  sale,  which  I 
had  all  but  concluded,  by  some  old  wife,  who  happened  to  be  passing  at 
the  moment,  exclaiming  that  I  was  too  high  in  my  prices,  although  she 
was  perfectly  ignorant  of  our  transaction. 

While  Sicomy  was  taking  his  coffee,  he  told  me  that  he  had  des- 
patched men  to  bring  elephants'  teeth,  which  he  said  were  at  a  distance^ 
and  that  he  would  purchase  everything  as  quickly  as  possible,  that  I 
might  be  enabled  to  leave  the  country  before  the  Matabili  should  come. 
This  rumour  about  the  Matabili  I  at  the  time  suspected  to"  be  a  fabrica- 
tion, but  I  subsequently  ascertained  that  it  was  a  fact. 

In  the  forenoon  I  occupied  myself  in  writing  the  journal  in  my  wag- 
gon, and  I  could  see  that  the  king  was  annoyed  at  my  indifference  about  the 
trading.  At  length  he  asked  me  to  come  out  of  the  waggon,  saying  that 
he  had  got  a  present  for  me,  and  he  brought  forward  the  elephant's  tusk 
which  lay  beneath  the  waggon.  Having  thanked  him,  I  expressed  my- 
self satisfied  with  his  present ;  and  in  return  I  immediately  presented 
him  with  what  he  reckoned  an  equivalent  in  beads.  He  asked  me  the 
price  of  my  muskets,  and  I  answered  four  large  bull's  teeth  for  each. 
He  then  retired  to  an  adjacent  grove  of  shady  trees,  where  he  sat  con- 
sulting with  his  men  for  hours.  Two  men  at  length  appeared,  coming 
from  opposite  directions,  each  bearing  a  bull's  tooth.  When  these  ar- 
rived, Sicomy  ordered  them  to  be  placed  before  me,  and,  calling  Isaac, 
he  inflicted  on  me  a  long  harangue,  talking  all  manner  of  nonsense,  and 
endeavouring  to  obtain  a  musket  for  these  two  teeth.  At  length  a  third 
tusk  was  brought,  but  it  was  a  small  one. 

It  was  now  late  in  the  afternoon,  so  I  told  the  king  that  I  was  going 
to  take  a  walk  in  the  mountains  to  obtain  a  view  of  his  country.  He 
said  that  he  was  going  to  buy  one  of  the  muskets  immediately,  and  re- 
quested that  I  would  not  leave  the  waggons.  After  sitting  talking  with 
his  men  till  it  was  near  sunset,  he  once  more  offered  me  two  tusks  for  a 
gun.  I  replied  that  I  had  already  spoken.  He  then  said  he  was  going 
home,  and  that  he  did  not  know  if  he  would  come  again  to  trade  with 
me.  If  the  king  had  indeed  resolved  not  to  trade  with  me,  no  request 
on  my  part  would  have  altered  the  case.  So  I  replied  that  I  had  never 
asked  him  to  purchase  anything,  and  was  perfectly  indifferent  whether 
he  did  or  not;  that  there  were  other  chiefs  who  were  anxious  to  pur- 
chase my  goods ;  and  that  my  reason  for  visiting  his  territory  was  to 
enjoy  the  sport  of  elephant-hunting.  Having  thus  spoken,  I  wished  him 
good  evening,  and  shouldering  my  rifle,  I  stalked  up  the  rocky  ravine 
and  shot  two  baboons. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning  Sicomy  was  at  the  wag- 

10 


158    HUNTING  AND   SPOTTING  ADVENTURES. 


gons ;  and  having  breakfasted,  he  commenced  as  on  the  previous  day 
to  endeavour  to  purchase  a  gun  with  two  tusks.  At  length  I  said  that 
he  should  have  one  for  three  tusks,  provided  they  were  large.  After  a 
protracted  discussion,  the  third  tusk  was  produced,  when  I  handed  him 
a  musket.  He  next  bothered  for  a  bullet-mould,  which  I  also  gave  him 
into  the  bargain.  Having  obtained  the  mould,  he  insisted  on  having  a 
lead-ladle.  This  I  said  I  could  not  give  him  with  one  gun ;  but  pro- 
mised if  he  dealt  liberally  with  me  he  should  have  one.  He  continued 
his  importunity  about  the  ladle  till  late  in  the  afternoon,  when  he  began 
to  talk  about  buying  a  second  gun.  Three  tusks  were  brought,  and  we 
had  nearly  concluded  a  bargain,  when  some  of  his  councillors  told  him 
that  he  ought  to  have  received  powder  and  bullets  along  with  the  first 
gun.  He  commenced  to  pester  me  on  this  subject ;  but  I  stoutly  re- 
sisted, and  told  him.  the  bargain  was  concluded.  He,  however,  continued 
to  harp  on  this  string  till  a  late  hour,  when  I  told  him,  as  I  had  done 
the  preceding  day,  that  I  must  now  take  a  walk  ;  and  I  remarked  that, 
if  he  thought  he  had  given  too  much  for  my  gun,  he  had  better  return 
it,  and  take  away  his  tusks.  Having  consulted  a  short  time  with  his 
wise  men,  he  returned  the  gun,  and  resumed  possession  of  his*  tusks. 
I  then  shouldered  my  rifle,  and  held  for  the  wells,  to  give  the  dogs 
water. 

These  wells  were  situated  at  a  great  distance  from  my  camp,  and 
yielded  a  very  moderate  supply  of  water.  Here  I  met  with  large  parties 
of  the  Bamangwato  women  drawing  water,  which  they  bore  in  earthen 
vessels  balanced  on  their  heads  to  their  elevated  retreats  in  the  moun- 
tains. The  pits  where  my  oxen  drank  were  very  distant  from  the  camp, 
and  were  reported  not  to  yield  a  sufficient  supply  of  water,  the  conse- 
quence of  which  was  that  my  horses  and  oxen  had  already  greatly 
fallen  off  in  condition.  In  this  state  of  things  I  resolved  that  my  stay 
at  Bamangwato  should  not  exceed  another  day,  and  I  determined  if 
possible  to  come  to  terms  with  Sicomy  on  the  following  morning.  On 
returning  to  the  waggons,  Carollus  came  up  to  me  and  reported  half  the 
oxen  missing.  This  threw  me  into  a  state  of  great  alarm.  I  at  once 
suspected  treachery,  and  I  well  knew  that  if  Sicomy  had  taken  them 
they  would  not  easily  be  recovered.  I  instantly  despatched  two 
mounted  men  in  different  directions,  with  instructions  to  ride  hard  and 
seek  the  spoor,  and  these  returned  at  a  late  hour,  having  found  them. 

On  reviewing  my  trading  I  could  not  help  feeling  annoyed  at  the 
dilatory  mode  in  which  it  progressed.  I  had  now  spent  two  entire  days 
endeavouring  to  trade,  yet  no  exchanges  had  been  effected.  For  this, 
however,  there  was  no  help.  I  could  not  have  acted  otherwise,  and  on 
the  following  day  I  reaped  the  benefit  of  my  unyielding  resolution. 

Although  I  voted  the  trading  an  intense  bore,  it  was  nevertheless 
well  worth  a  little  time  and  inconvenience,  on  account  of  the  enormous 
profit  I  should  realise.  The  price  I  paid  for  the  muskets  was  £16  for 
each  case  containing  twenty  muskets  ;  and  the  value  of  the  ivory  I  re- 
quired for  each  musket  was  upwards  of  <£30,  being  about  3000  per  cent., 
which  I  am  informed  is  reckoned  among  mercantile  men  to  be  a  very 
fair  profit.     Sicomy  was  in  those  days  in  the  possession  of  very  large 


A    VISIT    TO     SICOMY'S     STRONGHOLD.     159 


quantities  of  splendid  ivory,  and  still  considerable  quantities  pass 
annually  through  his  hands.  Since  I  first  visited  Bamangwato,  and 
taught  the  natives  the  use  of  fire-arms,  they  have  learnt  to  kill  the  ele- 
phant themselves  ;  but  previous  to  my  arrival  they  were  utterly  incap- 
able of  subduing  a  full-grown  elephant,  even  by  the  united  exertions  of 
the  whole  tribe.  All  the  ivory  which  Sicomy  then  possessed,  and  the 
majority  of  that  which  still  passes  through  his  hands,  is  obtained  from 
elephants  slain  with  assagais  by  an  active  and  daring  race  of  Bushmen 
inhabiting  very  remote  regions  to  the  northward  and  north-west  of 
Bamangwato.  r 

The  manner  in  which  Sicomy  obtained  this  ivory  was  by  sending  a 
party  of  his  warriors  to  the  Bushmen,  who  first  obtained  the  tusks  in 
barter  for  a  few  beads,  and  then  compelled  some  of  the  poor  Bakala- 
hari,  or  wild  natives  of  the  desert,  over  whom  Sicomy  conceives  that  he 
has  a  perfect  right  to  tyrannize,  to  bear  them  on  their  shoulders  across 
extensive  deserts  of  burning  sand  to  his  head-quarters  at  Bamangwato. 
So  great  was  the  fatigue  endured  by  the  poor  Bakalahari  on  these  occa- 
sions, that  many  of  them  died  of  exhaustion  before  reaching  Bamang- 
wato. •  At  an  early  hour  on  the  4th,  Sicomy  not  appearing,  I  proceeded 
to  visit  him  at  his  mountain  residence,  accompanied  by  Isaac  and  a 
party  of  his  own  men.  We  wound  along  the  base  of  the  mountains  for 
a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  and  then  commenced  ascending  the  almost 
perpendicular  and  rugged  mountain  side,  consisting  of  immense  masses 
of  rock  heaped  together  in  dire  confusion.  Having  gained  the  summit, 
which  was  of  a  tabular  character,  we  advanced  a  short  distance  through 
a  succession  of  heaps  of  disjointed  masses  of  rock,  and  presently  we 
reached  the  chief's  temporary  retreat ;  which  consisted  of  a  small 
circular  hut,  composed  of  a  framework  of  boughs  of  trees,  interlined 
with  twigs  and  covered  with  grass.  A  number  of  similar  huts  were 
erected  around  the  royal  dwelling,  on  areas  which  his  men  had  cleared 
among  the  rocks.  This,  however,  was  the  abode  of  only  a  very  small 
part  of  his  tribe,  which  was  extensively  scattered  over  different  parts 
of  the  mountain  range,  and  occupied  sundry  distant  cattle  outposts. 

I  found  Sicomy  seated  before  his  wigwam,  in  earnest  conversation 
with  his  councillors.  He  seemed  pleased  to  see  me,  and  thanked  me  for 
my  visit.  I  shook  hands  with  him,  and  informed  him  that,  owing  to  the 
scarcity  of  water  at  Lesausau,  I  could  not  prolong  my  visit  to  him;  and 
that  I  had  come  to  take  my  leave,  and  had  brought  him  a  few  presents, 
which  I  then  laid  before  him.  He  thanked  me,  and  said  that  I  was 
very  good,  and  that  he  was  happy  that  I  had  visited  his  country ;  but 
that  one  thing  made  his  heart  sore,  viz.  that  we  had  not  been  able  to 
trade.  I  replied  that  that  was  his  fault,  and  not  mine,  having  offered 
him  my  goods  on  equally  liberal  terms  as  I  did  to  others.  I  then  ex- 
pressed myself  anxious  to  depart.  Hereupon  Sicomy  requested  me  to 
remain  with  him  another  day,  promising  to  bring  me  abundance  of 
tusks,  and  to  purchase  all  my  muskets.  To  this  I  replied  that  I  was 
still  willing  to  deal  with  him,  if  he  would  only  deal  fairly  ;  but  I  gave 
him  to  understand  that  this  was  positively  the  last  day  I  could  remain 
with  him. 


160  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES 


We  then  all  started  for  the  waggons,  where  this  day  the  barter  went 
on  as  briskly  as  it  had  been  dilatory  on  the  two  preceding  ones.  The 
king  continued  drinking  coffee  and  taking  snuff  at  a  tremendous  rate, 
and  large  bowls  of  his  boyalwa  kept  continually  arriving,  and  were 
freely  circulated  throughout  the  day.  Sicomy  gave  me  three  bull's  tusks 
for  each  of  the  first  two  muskets,  I  giving  him  some  powder  and  lead  to 
boot ;  after  which  the  price  fell  to  two  tusks  for  each  musket.  With 
this  rate  of  exchange  the  whole  assembly  seemed  perfectly  satisfied,  and 
the  trading  went  on  without  a  murmur.  Athletic  savages  were  con- 
stantly coming  and  going  throughout  the  day  in  three  different  direc- 
tions, bearing  on  their  shoulders  the  precious  spoils  of  the  elephants  of 
the  Kalahari ;  and  when  the  sun  went  down  ail  my  muskets  were  dis- 
posed of,  and  I  found  myself  in  the  possession  of  a  very  valuable  lot  of 
ivory. 

I  also  effected  several  exchanges  of  beads  and  ammunition  for  the 
tusks  of  cow  elephants.  I  had  resolved  to  purchase  fine  specimens  of 
the  native  costume  and  arms,  etc.,  but  ivory  being  the  most  important 
article,  it  was  best  to  defer  all  minor  transactions  until  our  trade  in  it 
was  concluded.  The  king  seemed  highly  delighted  with  his  purchases, 
and  insisted  on  discharging  each  of  the  muskets  as  he  bought  it.  It  was 
amusing  to  see  the  manner  in  which  he  performed  this  operation. 
Throwing  back  his  kaross,  and  applying  the  stock  to  his  naked  shoulder, 
he  shut  his  good  eye,  and  kept  the  wall-eye  open,  to  the  intense  amuse- 
ment of  the  Hottentots,  who  were  his  instructors  on  the  occasion.  Each 
report  caused  the  utmost  excitement  and  merriment  among  the 
warriors,  who  pressed  forward  and  requested  that  they  also  might  be 
permitted  to  try  their  skill  with  these  novel  implements  of  war. 

The  king  had  in  his  possession  a  most  wonderful  knobkerry,  which  I 
was  determined  to  obtain.  It  was  made  of  the  horn  of  the  kobaoba,  a 
very  rare  species  of  the  rhinoceros,  and  its  chief  interest  consisted  in  its 
extraordinary  length,  which  greatly  exceeded  anything  I  had  ever  seen 
of  the  kind  before,  or  have  since  met  with.  Handing  Sicomy  my  snuff- 
box, I  pointed  to  the  kerry,  and  asked  him  where  the  kobaoba  had  been 
killed.  He  replied  that  that  kerry  had  been  sent  him  by  a  chief  who 
resided  at  an  amazing  distance  on  the  borders  of  the  Lake  of  Boats.  I 
then  asked  him  to  present  it  to  me,  that  I  might  have  something  to 
keep  in  remembrance  of  him ;  but  he  replied  that  it  belonged  to  his 
wife,  and  he  could  not  part  with  it.  Presently,  however,  while  sipping 
his  coffee,  he  said  that  if  I  chose  I  might  purchase  it.  I  asked  him 
what  he  required  for  it,  and  he  answered,  the  cup  which  he  then  held 
full  of  gunpowder.  Accordingly,  when  his  majesty  had  drained  the  cup, 
I  handed  him  the  powder,  and  became  possessor  of  the  kobaoba  kerry, 
which  is  now  in  my  possession,  and  on  which  I  place  a  very  great  value. 
It  was  now  night,  and  king  said  that  he  would  sleep  by  the  waggons,  as 
it  was  too  late  to  go  home. 

A  number  of  his  men  prepared  for  the  bivouac,  some  collecting  logs 
for  the  nocturnal  watch-fire,  which  the  Bechuanas  invariably  keep  up, 
while  others  were  occupied  in  forming  circular  hedges  of  thorny  branches 
around  the  fires,  within  which  they  carefully  levelled  the  ground  with 


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LEAVE  FOR  THE  FORESTS.       161 

pointed  sticks,  preparatory  to  spreading  out  their  couches,  which  con- 
sist of  long  dried  grass,  and  extend  in  a  circular  form  around  the  fire. 
On  these  couches  the  Bechuanas  sleep,  with  the  soles  of  their  feet  to  the 
fire,  with  no  other  covering  than  a  light  kaross.  They  lie  huddled  to- 
gether like  silver  spoons  on  a  tray,  and  the  number  of  individuals 
around  each  fire  is  usually  about  a  dozen.  Before  retiring  to  rest  I  in- 
formed Sicomy  that  I  should  march  on  the  morrow  as  soon  as  my  oxen 
had  drunk,  and  I  expressed  my  wish  to  trade  with  his  people  for 
karosses  and  armour  at  an .  early  hour.  Sicomy  promised  that  these 
articles  should  be  forthcoming,  and  at  once  informed  his  people  of  my 
wish. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  morning  of  the  5th  I  commenced  to  trade 
with  Sicomy's  men  for  karosses  and  Bechuana  arms,  of  each  of  which  I 
obtained  some  very  fine  specimens.  With  these,  as  with  the  ivory, 
there  was  considerable  discussion  before  the  prices  could  be  agreed  on 
in  the  first  instance,  after  which  exchanges  were  effected  rapidly.  I  had, 
however,  to  pay  them  long  prices  for  their  "  chakas  "  or  battle-axes,  on 
which  all  the  Bechuana  tribes  place  a  very  great  value. 

I  had  intended  to  penetrate  beyond  Bamangwato,  with  a  wish  to  ex- 
plore the  country,  and  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  elephants  ;  but  owing 
to  gross  misrepresentations  made  to  me  by  Isaac  relative  to  Sicomy's 
wishes  on  the  subject,  and  partly  owing  to  the  threatened  attack  from 
the  Matabili,  I  resolved  for  the  present  not  to  extend  my  peregrinations 
beyond  Bamangwato,  but  to  occupy  my  time  for  the  remainder  of  that 
season  in  hunting  throughout  the  fine  country  between  Bamangwato 
and  Sichely's  mountains.  As  Isaac's  character,  however,  gradually  un- 
folded itself  to  me,  and  as  I  became  more  intimate  and  conversant  with 
the  natives,  I  discovered  that  he  had  interpreted  Sicomy's  wishes  to  me 
in  utterly  false  colours  ;  and  I  afterwards  ascertained  from  the  natives, 
whose  language  I  very  soon  began  to  understand,  that  Sicomy  and  his 
people  were  not  only  willing,  but  anxious,  that  I  should  remain  and 
hunt  elephants  in  their  territory.  In  consequence  of  this,  as  the  reader 
will  shortly  learn,  being  informed  by  Sicomy's  men  that  the  invasion  by 
the  Matabili  was  no  longer  apprehended,  I  returned  to  Bamangwato, 
and  penetrated  into  the  extensive  forests  to  the  northward  and  east- 
ward of  that  mountain  range,  where  for  several  months  I  continued 
hunting  elephants,  accompanied  by  large  parties  of  Sicomy's  men. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Take  leave  of  Sicomy — Digging  for  Water — The  Elephants'  Fountain  again — A 
wounded  Roan  Antelop©  bays  in  the  Water,  and  kills  my  Dogs  right  and  left 
— Sicomy's  Camp  again — We  march  through  a  beautiful  Valley — Curious  In- 
stinct of  the  Rhinoceros-bird — A  mighty  Bull  Elephant  shot  after  a  hard  Con- 
flict— Mutchuisho's  Attentions  more  charitable  than  pleasant — Cutting  up  an 
Elephant — A  strange  Scene — Baking  the  Flesh — Primitive  Tobacco-pipes — 
Biltongue  Festoons. 

About  eleven  o'clock  a.m.  on  the  5th  of  July,  everything  being  ready,  I 
took  leave  of  Sicomy  and  retraced  my  steps  for  Corriebely.     It  caused 


162     HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


me  much  pain  and  anxiety  to  observe  that  my  cattle  were  extremely 
hollow-looking  and  spiritless  from  want  of  water ;  not  one  of  them 
having  obtained  a  sufficiency  of  that  essential  of  life  since  they  had  last 
drunk  at  Corriebely,  and  several  appearing  so  distressed  that  I  enter- 
tained considerable  fears  of  their  being  able  to  reach  that  fountain.  I 
was  accompanied  by  a  small  party  of  Sicomy's  men,  who  followed  me  in 
the  hope  of  obtaining  flesh. 

Having  proceeded  about  a  mile,  I  missed  my  greyhound  "  Flam," 
which  had  been  doubtless  stolen  by  Sicomy's  orders,  he  being  notorious 
for  his  predilection  for  that  variety  of  dog.  I  therefore  at  once  de- 
spatched a  messenger  to  the  king,  to  say  that  I  required  him  to  find  my 
dog ;  and  shortly  after  this  men  overtook  me,  bearing  a  kaross,  which 
they  said  the  king  had  sent  to  purchase  one  of  my  dogs.  I  replied  that 
they  had  already  taken  the  dog,  but  that  I  would  not  have  the  kaross. 
They  then  departed,  and  I  continued  my  march.  After  trekking  about 
six  miles  we  reached  a  deep  gravel-hole  beside  a  mass  of  red  granite 
rock,  at  the  bottom  of  which  there  was  about  a  bucketful  of  spring 
water  ;  and  here  was  the  fresh  spoor  of  a  huge  bull  elephant,  which  had 
scooped  out  large  portions  of  the  gravel  with  his  trunk  on  the  preced- 
ing evening,  but  on  turning  about  he  had  entirely  undone  what  he  had 
accomplished  by  trampling  it  down  again  into  the  well  with  his  huge 
feet. 

On  inspecting  the  spot  I  fancied  that  by  digging  we  might  obtain  a 
little  water  for  the  unfortunate  cattle,  which  at  this  moment  was  an  ob- 
ject of  the  utmost  importance,  the  fountain  of  Corriebely  being  still 
very  distant.  I  accordingly  set  to  work  hard  with  all  my  followers, 
assisted  by  the  Bechuanas ;  and  having  removed  an  immense  quantity 
of  the  gravel,  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  discover  a  small  spring  of  excel- 
lent water,  which  issued  from  beneath  the  granite  rock  and  ran  as  fast 
as  we  could  catch  it  in  our  pails.  I  then  placed  my  large  flesh-pot  near 
the  pit,  and,  ordering  the  men  to  bring  up  the  cattle  in  small  detach- 
ments, we  baled  out  the  water  as  fast  as  they  could  drink  it,  the 
buckets  being  handed  along  by  a  line  of  men  extending  up  the  gravel 
bank  to  the  cattle :  and  thus  in  a  short  time  every  one  of  them  obtained 
a  sufficiency.  This  opportune  supply  of  water  was  to  me  invaluable, 
my  poor  dogs  having  also  been  much  distressed  and  requiring  water  no 
less  than  the  cattle. 

With  renewed  spirits  we  continued  our  journey,  and  at  sundown  we 
halted  about  half-way  to  Corriebely.  On  the  march  two  of  the  oxen 
evinced  distress,  and  we  were  obliged  to  outspan  them  and  allow  them 
to  follow  slowly  with  the  loose  cattle.  About  ten  o'clock  on  the  follow- 
ing morning  I  reached  Corriebely,  and  was  most  thankful  to  have 
succeeded  in  bringing  all  my  wretched  cattle  alive  to  a  fountain  where 
they  could  drink  their  fill.  While  breakfasting,  three  of  Sicomy's  men 
approached,  leading  my  greyhound  Flam ;  they  said  that  they  were 
sent  by  Sicomy,  who,  on  hearing  that  she  was  missing,  had  at  once 
issued  orders  for  her  recovery. 

In  the  afternoon  we  inspanned,  and  marched  to  the  scene  of  the  fall 
of  my  first  elephant,   where   we  halted  for  the  night.     On   reaching 


A    HERD    OF    BLUE     WILDEBEESTS.        163 


Massouey  I  commenced  examining  the  elephants'  footpaths  on  the  side 
on  which  were  my  strongest  hopes.  I  had  almost  made  the  circuit  of 
the  fountain,  and  hope  had  died  within  me,  when,  lo  !  broad  and  long, 
and  fresh  as  fresh  could  be,  the  enormous  spoor  of  two  mighty  bull 
elephants  which  had  drunk  there  during  the  night.  This  was  glorious  ! 
I  had  great  faith  in  the  spooring  powers  of  the  Bamangwato  men,  and 
I  felt  certain  that  at  length  the  day  had  arrived  on  which  I  was  to  kill 
my  first  bull  elephant.  The  Bechuanas  at  once  took  up  the  spoor,  and 
went  ahead  in  a  masterly  manner  ;  and  with  buoyant  spirits  I  followed 
in  their  steps.  The  spoor  led  about  due  west,  a  direction  in  which  I  had 
not  yet  been.  Having  followed  it  for  many  miles  through  this  desert 
country,  we  reached  a  district  where  the  bushes,  to  whose  berries  Knop- 
kop  was  so  partial,  grew  in  great  abundance ;  and  here  the  elephants 
had  commenced  to  feed  upon  their  roots,  ploughing  up  the  sand 
extensively  with  their  tusks.  We  now  entered  upon  ground  much 
frequented  by  elephants,  their  traces,  of  various  dates,  extending  on  all 
sides,  crossing  and  recrossing  one  another  in  every  direction :  and  by 
this  means  we  eventually  lost  the  spoor. 

After  a  fruitless  search  of  several  hours,  and  many  vain  endeavours 
to  retrieve  the  day  by  trying  back  on  the  spoor  and  making  wide  casts 
to  the  right  and  left,  I  was  completely  beaten,  and  compelled  to  drop  it, 
the  Bechuanas  sitting  down  and  sulkily  refusing  to  proceed  farther.  We 
now  bent  our  steps  homeward.  We  had  not  ridden  many  miles  when 
we  observed  a  herd  of  fifteen  camelopards  browsing  quietly  in  an  open 
glade  of  the  forest.  After  a  very  severe  chase,  in  the  course  of  which 
they  stretched  out  into  a  magnificent  widely-extended  front,  keeping 
their  line  with  a  regularity  worthy  of  a  troop  of  dragoons,  I  succeeded 
in  separating  a  fine  bull,  upwards  of  eighteen  feet  in  height,  from  the 
rest  of  the  herd,  and  brought  him  to  the  ground  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  camp.  The  Bechuanas  expressed  themselves  delighted  at  my 
success.  They  kindled  a  fire  and  slept  beside  the  carcase,  which  they 
very  soon  reduced  to  biltongue  and  marrow-bones. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th  I  walked  to  the  fountain,  and  examined 
all  the  elephants'  footpaths,  but  there  was  no  fresh  spoor.  Having 
breakfasted,  I  rode  for  a  conical  hill,  distant  from  the  waggons  about 
five  miles  in  a  northerly  direction,  from  whose  summit  I  fancied  that 
elephants  might  be  seen.  It  was  a  charming  cool  day,  with  a  fine 
bracing  wind,  the  sky  beautifully  overcast  with  clouds.  I  rode  along, 
holding  the  elephants'  footpaths.  The  marks  of  their  strength  were 
visible  in  every  grove,  and  all  the  large  trees  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
muddy  vleys,  which  at  this  season  were  dry,  were  plastered  with  sun- 
baked mud  to  a  height  of  twelve  feet  from  the  ground.  On  reaching 
the  base  of  the  conical  hill  I  secured  my  horse  to  a  tree,  and  ascended 
to  its  summit^  from  which  I  carefully  examined  the  distant  forest  land- 
scape with  my  spyglass,  but  sought  in  vain  for  elephants. 

In  the  evening  I  took  my  heavy  single-barrelled  rifle,  and  sauntered 
towards  the  fountain.  A  large  herd  of  blue  wildebeests  were  slowly 
advancing  up  the  vley  to  drink.  I  accordingly  took  up  a  position 
behind  a  low  bush  near  which  they  must  pass,  and  lay  flat  on  the 


164   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

ground,  waiting  their  approach.  Presently  I  raised  my  head  to  see  how 
they  were  coming  on,  when  I  perceived  a  pair  of  the  rare  and  beautiful 
roan  antelope  or  bastard  gemsbok  warily  approaching  the  fountain. 
These  came  up,  and  were  passing  within  a  hundred  and  twenty  yards 
of  me,  when,  selecting  the  buck,  I  let  fly,  and  missed.  The  whole  herd 
of  wildebeests  now  wheeled  to  the  right-about,  and  thundered  down  the 
vley,  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  dust ;  but  the  two  roan  antelopes,  which 
had  probably  never  before  heard  the  report  of  a  gun,  stood  looking 
about  them,  while  I  hastily  loaded,  lying  flat  on  my  side.  This  being 
accomplished,  I  again  let  fly,  and  the  old  buck  dropped  to  the  shot ;  the 
ball  had  entered  his  shoulder,  and  he  lay  kicking  and  roaring  until  I 
had  almost  reloaded,  when  he  regained  his  feet  and  made  off  after  his 
comrade. 

At  this  moment  "Argyll"  and  "Bonteberg,"  two  right  good  dogs, 
came  up,  having  heard  the  shots,  and,  perceiving  the  bastard  gemsboks, 
they  gave  chase.  To  my  surprise  the  wounded  buck,  instead  of  turning 
to  bay,  now  set  off  at  a  rapid  pace.  He  had  not  gone  far,  however, 
when  he  turned,  and  stood  at  bay  for  about  a  minute.  Two  or  three 
more  of  the  dogs  heard  their  comrades  barking,  and  came  up  to  the 
buck,  which  then  broke  bay  and  made  off  through  the  bushes,  and  in 
another  moment  all  was  still.  It  was  now  almost  dark,  and  I  followed 
in  the  direction  which  the  buck  had  held,  when  suddenly  I  heard  a 
rushing  noise,  and  in  another  instant  the  wounded  buck  met  me  face  to 
face,  closely  pursued  by  five  of  the  dogs.  He  was  making  for  the 
water,  where  he  would  have  bayed,. but  I  unluckily  turned  him.  Owing 
to  light  rain  which  was  falling  at  the  moment,  I  had  unfortunately 
slipped  my  rifle  into  a  water-proof  holster,  which  prevented  my  firing, 
and  the  buck  held  close  past  the  waggons,  where  more  dogs  joined  in 
the  chase. 

On  reaching  camp  I  inquired  of  the  men  if  they  had  seen  the  buck, 
and  they  answered  Yes,  but  that  he  was  not  wounded.  This  I  fancied 
must  be  the  case,  and  that  the  dogs  had  followed  the  fresh  buck  ;  and  as 
two  of  them  made  their  appearance,  I  thought  that  the  affair  was  at  an 
end.  In  the  mean  time,  however,  Kleinboy  had  seen  the  chase,  and, 
hastily  bridling  a  horse,  had  followed.  He  now  rode  breathless  to  the 
waggons,  and  reported  that  the  buck  was  at  bay  beyond  a  low  ridge 
within  half  a  mile  of  camp,  and  that  he  was  killing  the  dogs  right  and 
left.  Seizing  my  rifle,  I  mounted  a  horse  and  followed  after  Kleinboy 
.in  the  dark.  Presently  I  heard  the  music  of  my  pack,  and  on  coming 
up  I  found  the  bastard  gemsbok  lying  beside  a  bush,  with  the  dogs 
barking  round  him.  Three  dogs  that  had  followed  me  from  camp,  on 
seeing  the  buck  lying,  rushed  in  upon  him,  when  he  struck  furiously  right 
and  left,  and  killed  one  dead  on  the  spot,  severely  wounding  another 
behind  the  shoulder;  these  were  Vitfoot  and  Argyll,  two  of  my  best  dogs. 
Again  he  struck  right  and  left,  and  knocked  over  Wolf  and  Flam  with 
amazing  violence,  severely  injuring  their  stomachs.  He  had  killed  Bles, 
my  stoutest  and  fiercest  dog,  before  I  came  up,  the  horn  having  entered 
his  heart. 

It  was  a  long  time  before  I  could  fire,  for  the  night  was  dark,  and 


STALKING    A    WHITE    RHINOCEROS.        165 

the  buck  lay  on  the  ground,  with  the  surviving  dogs  still  pressing  close 
around  him.  At  length  he  stood  up,  when  I  shot  him  dead  with  a  single 
shot.  He  proved  to  be  the  wounded  buck,  having  received  my  first  shot 
in  the  shoulder.  This  was  a  first-rate  specimen  of  the  roan  antelope, 
and  carried  a  pair  of  superb  scimitar-shaped  horns,  which  were  long  and 
fairly  set,  and  beautifully  knotted.  Before  leaving  Massouey  two 
more  noble  giraffes  fell  before  my  rifle,  also  several  fat  elands  and  other 
varieties  of  game. 

After  remaining  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  fountain  for  several  days, 
and  finding  that  it  was  entirely  deserted  by  the  elephants,  I  determined 
to  retrace  my  steps,  and  seek  for  them  beyond  Bamangwato,  and  on  the 
18th  we  again  came  to  the  camp  of  Sicomy  upon  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
I  found  the  king  in  a  kraal  which  I  had  not  hitherto  visited.  He  was 
seated  beneath  a  low  shady  tree,  with  a  few  friends  and  some  of  his 
wives.  A  number  of  splendid  koodoos'  skulls  and  horns  lay  rotting 
about  the  kraal,  among  which  were  several  pairs  exceeding  any  I  had 
yet  beheld.  Casting  my  eyes  to  the  south-east,  I  obtained  a  very 
distant  view  of  the  country  in  that  direction.  From  the  base  of  the 
mountain  on  which  I  stood  stretched  a  dead  level  park  through  a  bold 
opening  in  the  mountains.  This  park  was  regularly  ornamented  with 
groves  and  forest-trees,  and  extended  without  the  slightest  break  or 
change  as  far  as  I  could  see.  The  scene  exactly  resembled  the  ocean 
when  viewed  from  the  summit  of  some  bold  mountain  standing  near  its 
shore.  Having  partaken  of  the  king's  beer,  I  descended  to  my  waggons, 
when  we  continued  our  march  along  the  aforesaid  valley.  I  was 
accompanied  by  Sicomy's  brother ;  and  on  looking  behind  me  as  we 
proceeded,  I  beheld  long  strings  of  the  natives  following  in  our  wake, 
and  small  detached  parties  kept  pouring  down  from  the  rocks  and  glens 
on  every  side,  until  my  suite  exceeded  two  hundred  men. 

We  held  a  northerly  course,  and  on  the  second  day  we  reached 
Letlochee,  a  strong  perpetual  fountain,  situated  in  an  abrupt  and  rocky 
ravine.  This  ravine  lay  in  a  range  of  low  rocky  hills,  which  were 
bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  a  wide  and  gently  sloping  basin  or 
hollow,  diversified  with  extensive  groves  and  open  glades.  This  hollow 
extended  to  a  breadth  of  from  six  to  eight  miles,  and  was  much 
frequented  by  elands  and  giraffes,  and  beyond  it  stretched  the  boundless 
extent  of  the  sandy  Kalahari  desert.  Here  I  daily  enjoyed  excellent 
sport  with  these  two  varieties  of  game  ;  but  though  elephants  occasion- 
ally visited  the  water,  and  we  followed  on  their  tracks  to  an  amazing 
distance,  we  always  failed  to  obtain  a  view  of  them. 

On  the  forenoon  of  the  23rd  a  native  came  and  informed  me  that  he 
had  discovered  a  white  rhinoceros  lying  asleep  in  thick  cover  to  the 
south.  I  accordingly  accompanied  him  to  the  spot  and  commenced 
stalking  in  upon  the  vast  muchocho.  He  was  lying  asleep  beneath  a 
shady  tree,  and  his  appearance  reminded  me  of  an  enormous  hog,  which 
in  shape  he  slightly  resembles.  He  kept  constantly  flapping  his  ears, 
which  they  invariably  do  when  sleeping.  Before  I  could  reach  the 
proper  distance  to  fire,  several  "rhinoceros-birds,"  by  which  he  was 
attended,  warned  him  of  his  impending  danger  by  sticking  their  bills  into 


166    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

his  ear,  and  uttering  their  harsh,  grating  cry.  Thus  aroused,  he  suddenly 
sprang  to  his  feet  and  crashed  away  through  the  jungle  at  a  rapid  trot, 
and  I  saw  no  more  of  him. 

These  rhinoceros-birds  are  constant  attendants  upon  the  hippopotamus 
and  the  four  varieties  of  rhinoceros,  their  object  being  to  feed  upon  the 
ticks  and  other  parasitic  insects  that  swarm  upon  these  animals.  They 
are  of  a  greyish  colour,  and  are  nearly  as  large  as  a  common  thrush  ; 
their  voice  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  mistletoe- thrush.  Many  a 
time  have  these  ever-watchful  birds  disappointed  me  in  my  stalk,  and 
tempted  me  to  invoke  an  anathema  upon  their  devoted  heads.  They 
are  the  best  friends  the  rhinoceros  has,  and  rarely  fail  to  awaken  him 
even  in  his  soundest  nap.  "  Chukuroo  "  perfectly  understands  their 
warning,  and,  springing  to  his  feet,  he  generally  first  looks  about  him 
in  every  direction,  after  which  he  invariably  makes  off. 

I  have  often  hunted  a  rhinoceros  on  horseback,  which  led  me  a  chase 
of  many  miles  and  required  a  number  of  shots  before  he  fell,  during 
which  chase  several  of  these  birds  remained  by  the  rhinoceros  to  the 
last.  They  reminded  me  of  mariners  on  the  deck  of  some  bark  sailing 
on  the  ocean,  for  they  perched  along  his  back  and  sides ;  and  as  each  of 
my  bullets  told  on  the  shoulder  of  the  rhinoceros,  they  ascended  about 
six  feet  into  the  air,  uttering  their  harsh  cry  of  alarm,  and  then  resumed 
their  position.  It  sometimes  happened  that  the  lower  branches  of  trees, 
under  which  the  rhinoceros  passed,  swept  them  from  their  living  deck, 
but  they  always  recovered  their  former  station ;  they  also  adhere  to  the 
rhinoceros  during  the  night.  I  have  often  shot  these  animals  at  mid- 
night when  drinking  at  the  fountains,  and  the  birds,  imagining  they 
were  asleep,  remained  with  them  till  morning,  and  on  my  approaching, 
before  taking  flight,  they  exerted  themselves  to  their  utmost  to  awaken 
Chukuroo  from  his  deep  sleep. 

In  the  evening  one  of  the  parties  sent  out  to  seek  for  the  spoor  of 
elephants  returned  to  camp,  stating  that  a  small  tribe  of  Bakalahari, 
who  resided  in  a  range  of  mountains  to  the  east,  reported  these  beasts 
to  frequent  the  forests  in  the  vicinity  of  their  abode,  and  Mutchuisho, 
Sicomy's  uncle,  who  attended  me  whilst  hunting  his  country,  accord- 
ingly requested  me  to  hold  myself  in  readiness  to  accompany  him  in 
quest  of  the  elephants  at  an  early  hour  next  day.  It  was  customary 
with  me  to  console  myself,  when  hope  had  almost  died  under  a  long- 
continued  run  of  bad  luck,  by  saying  to  myself  that  :' Patience  will  have 
her  perfect  work,"  thus  making  up  my  mind  that  a  man  who  is  a  good 
stalker  and  a  fair  rifle-shot  must  eventually  obtain  by  perseverance 
whatever  game  be  seeks  to  kill.  But  in  the  present  instance  things 
looked  so  bad  that  I  had  begun  to  think  it  not  improbable  that  I  might 
be  compelled  to  leave  the  Bamangwato  country  without  again  even  see- 
ing what  my  heart  so  ardently  desired,  viz.  an  old  bull  elephant  free  in 
his  native  forests ;  and  day  and  night  I  mourned  my  folly  in  losing  the 
opportunity  which  I  had  neglected  on  the  27th  day  of  June. 

But  patience  will  have  her  perfect  work,  and  the  day  had  at  last  ar- 
rived which  was  to  repay  my  steady  perseverance  with  complete  suc- 
cess.     At  an  early  hour  on  the  24th,  upon  the  strength  of  the  report 


IN    QUEST    OF    ELEPHANTS.  167 

brought  to  us  on  the  preceding  evening,  I  took  the  field  with  Isaac  and 
Kleinboy  as  after-riders,  accompanied  by  Mutchuisho  and  a  hundred 
and  fifty  of  his  tribe.  We  held  a  north-easterly  course,  and,  having 
proceeded  about  five  miles  through  the  forest,  we  reached  a  fountain, 
where  I  observed  the  spoor  of  a  herd  of  cow  elephants,  two  days  old. 
Here  we  made  a  short  halt,  and  snuff  was  briskly  circulated,  while  the 
leading  men  debated  on  the  course  we  were  to  follow,  and  it  was  agreed 
that  we  should  hold  for  the  Bakalahari  kraal.  Having  continued  our 
course  for  several  miles,  we  rounded  the  northern  extremity  of  a  range 
of  rocky  monntains  which  rose  abruptly  in  the  forest  and  stretched 
away  to  the  south  of  east  in  a  long-continued  chain.  Here  we  were  met 
by  men  whom  Mutchuisho  had  despatched  before  daybreak,  who  said 
that  the  Bakalahari  women  had  that  morning  seen  elephants.  This  was 
joyous  news.  My  hopes  were  high,  and  I  at  once  felt  certain  that  the 
hour  of  triumph  was  at  hand.  But  disappointment  was  still  in  store  for 
me.  We  all  sat  down  on  the  grass,  while  men  were  despatched  to  bring 
the  Bakalahari,  and  when  these  came  we  ascertained  that  it  was  only 
spoor  and  not  elephants  they  had  seen.  We  held  on  for  an  inspection 
of  it ;  and  here  I  was  further  to  be  disappointed,  the  spoor  proving  to 
be  two  days  old. 

The  country  now  before  me  was  a  vast  level  forest  extending  to  the 
north  and  east  for  about  twenty  miles  without  a  break.  At  that  dis- 
tance, however,  the  landscape  was  shut  in  by  blue  mountain  ranges  of 
considerable  height,  and  two  bold  conical  mountains  standing  close  to- 
gether rose  conspicuous  above  the  rest.  These  mountains  the  Bamang- 
wato  men  informed  me  were  their  ancient  habitation,  and  that  of  their 
forefathers,  but  the  cruel  Matabili  had  driven  them  from  thence  to  the 
rocky  mountains  which  they  now  occupy.  We  continued  our  course  in 
an  easterly  direction,  and  twice  crossed  the  gravelly  bed  of  a  periodical 
river,  in  which  were  several  small  springs  of  excellent  water.  These 
springs  had  been  exposed  by  elephants,  which  had  cleared  away  the 
gravel  with  their  trunks.  Around  these  springs  the  spoor  of  rhinoceros 
was  abundant.  After  proceeding  several  miles  through  a  dry  and  barren 
tract,  where  wait-a-bit  thorns  prevailed,  we  entered  upon  more  interest- 
ing ground. 

The  forest  was  adorned  with  very  picturesque  old  trees  of  various 
sorts  and  sizes,  which  stood  singly  and  in  shady  groups,  while  the  main 
body  of  the  forest  consisted  of  a  variety  of  trees  of  other  sorts,  averag- 
ing the  height  of  a  giraffe.  The  elephants  had  left  abundant  traces  of 
their  presence,  but  all  the  marks  were  old.  Fresh  spoor  of  giraffe  was 
imprinted  on  the  ground  on  every  side,  and  we  presently  saw  a  large 
herd  of  these,  standing  scattered  through  the  forest  to  our  left.  They 
were  glorious  fellows,  but  I  was  now  in  pursuit  of  nobler  game :  the 
natives  were  leading  me  to  some  distant  fountain,  where  they  expected 
we  should  discover  spoor. 

On  we  sped  through  the  depths  of  the  forest,  our  view  being  confined 
to  about  fifty  yards  on  every  side.  Presently  emerging  upon  a  small 
open  glade,  I  observed  a  herd  of  brindled  gnoos  and  two  or  three  troops 
of  pallahs  ;  and  soon  after  a  second  herd  of  about  fifteen  camelopards 


168   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

stood  browsing  before  us,  and,  getting  our  wind,  dashed  away  to  our 
left.  We  had  proceeded  about  two  miles  farther,  and  it  was  now  within 
two  hours  of  sunset,  when,  lo !  a  thorny  tree,  newly  smashed  by  an  ele- 
phant. Some  of  the  natives  attentively  examined  the  leaves  of  the 
broken  branches  to  ascertain  exactly  when  he  had  been  there ;  while 
some  for  the  same  purpose  overhauled  the  spoor.  It  was  the  spoor  of  a 
first-rate  bull ;  he  had  fed  there  that  morning  at  the  dawn  of  day.  The 
ground  was  hard  and  bad  for  spooring,  but  the  natives  evinced  great 
skill ;  and  following  it  for  a  short  distance,  we  came  to  ground  where  a 
troop  of  bull  elephants  had  pastured  not  many  hours  before.  Here  the 
thorny  trees  on  every  side  were  demolished  by  them,  and  huge  branches 
and  entire  trees  were  rent  and  uprooted,  and  lay  scattered  across  our 
path,  having  been  carried  several  yards  in  the  trunks  of  the  elephants 
before  they  stood  to  eat  the  leaves :  the  ground  also  was  here  and  there 
ploughed  up  by  their  tusks  in  quest  of  roots ;  and  in  these  places  the 
enormous  fresh  spoor — that  thrilling  sight  to  a  hunter's  eye — was  beauti- 
fully visible. 

All  this  was  extremely  interesting  and  gratifying ;  but  I  had  been  so 
often  disappointed,  and  it  was  now  so  very  near  sunset,  that  I  enter- 
tained but  faint  hopes  of  finding  them  that  evening.  Mutchuisho  was 
very  anxious  that  I  should  see  the  elephants  ;  he  had  divested  himself 
of  his  kaross,  and,  carrying  one  of  the  muskets  which  Sicomy  had 
bought  from  me,  he  led  the  spooring  party,  consisting  of  about  fifteen  cun- 
ning old  hands.  The  great  body  of  the  men  he  had  ordered  to  sit  down 
and  remain  quiet  until  the  attack  commenced.  Having  followed  the 
spoor  for  a  short  distance,  old  Mutchuisho  became  extremely  excited, 
and  told  me  that  we  were  close  to  the  elephants.  A  few  minutes  after 
several  of  the  spoorers  affirmed  that  they  had  heard  the  elephants  break 
a  tree  in  advance ;  they  differed,  however,  about  the  direction,  some 
saying  it  was  in  front,  and  others  that  it  was  away  to  our  left.  Two  or 
three  men  quickly  ascended  the  tallest  trees  that  stood  near  us,  but  they 
could  not  see  the  elephants.  Mutchuisho  then  extended  men  to  the 
right  and  left,  while  we  continued  on  the  spoor. 

In  a  few  minutes  one  of  those  who  had  gone  off  to  our  left  came  run- 
ning breathless  to  say  that  he  had  seen  the  mighty  game.  I  halted  for 
a  minute,  and  instructed  Isaac,  who  carried  the  big  Dutch  rifle,  to  act 
independently  of  me,  while  Kleinboy  was  to  assist  me  in  the  chase ;  but, 
as  usual,  when  the  row  began,  my  followers  thought  only  of  number 
one.  I  bared  my  arms  to  the  shoulder,  and,  having  imbibed  a  draught 
of  aqua  pura  from  the  calabash  of  one  of  the  spoorers,  I  grasped  my 
trusty  two-grooved  rifle,  and  told  my  guide  to  go  ahead.  We  proceeded 
silently  as  might  be  for  a  few  hundred  yards,  following  the  guide;  when 
he  suddenly  pointed,  exclaiming,  "  Klow  !  "  and  before  us  stood  a  herd 
of  mighty  bull  elephant,  packed  together  beneath  a  shady  grove  about 
a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  advance.  I  rode  slowly  towards  them;  and 
as  soon  as  they  observed  me  they  made  a  loud  rumbling  noise,  and,  tos- 
sing their  trunks,  wheeled  right  about  and  made  off  in  one  direction, 
crashing  through  the  forest  and  leaving  a  cloud  of  dust  behind  them.    I 


NARROW    ESCAPE    FROM    AN    ELEPHANT.    169 

was  accompanied  by  a  detachment  of  my  dogs,  who  assisted  me  in  the 
pursuit. 

The  distance  I  had  come,  and  the  difficulties  I  had  undergone,  to  be- 
hold these  elephants,  rose  fresh  before  me.  I  determined  that  on  this 
occasion  at  least  I  would  do  my  duty,  and,  dashing  my  spurs  into 
"Sunday's"  ribs,  I  was  very  soon  much  too  close  in  their  rear  for  safety. 
The  elephants  now  made  an  inclination  to  my  left,  whereby  I  obtained 
a  good  view  of  the  ivory.  The  herd  consisted  of  six  bulls ;  four  of  them 
were  full-grown,  first-rate  elephants  ;  the  other  two  were  fine  fellows, 
but  had  not  yet  arrived  at  perfect  stature.  Of  the  four  old  fellows,  two 
had  much  finer  tusks  than  the  rest,  and  for  a  few  seconds  I  was  unde- 
cided which  of  these  two  I  would  follow;  when,  suddenly,  the  one 
which  I  fancied  had  the  stoutest  tusks  broke  from  his  comrades,  and  I 
at  once  felt  convinced  that  he  was  the  patriarch  of  the  herd,  and  fol- 
lowed him  accordingly.  Cantering  alongside,  I  was  about  to  fire,  when 
he  instantly  turned,  and,  uttering  a  trumpet  so  strong  and  shrill  that 
the  earth  seemed  to  vibrate  beneath  my  feet,  he  charged  furiously  after 
me  for  several  hundred  yards  in  a  direct  line  not  altering  his  course  in 
the  slightest  degree  for  the  trees  of  the  forest,  which  he  snapped  and 
overthrew  like  reeds  in  his  headlong  career. 

When  he  pulled  up  in  his  charge,  I  likewise  halted ;  and  as  he  slowly 
turned  to  retreat  I  let  fly  at  his  shoulder,  "  Sunday  "  capering  and 
prancing  and  giving  me  much  trouble.  On  receiving  the  ball  the  ele- 
phant shrugged  his  shoulder,  and  made  off  at  a  free  majestic  walk. 
This  shot  brought  ^several  of  the  dogs  to  my  assistance  which  had  been 
following  the  other  elephants,  and  on  their  coming  up  and  barking  an- 
other headlong  charge  was  the  result,  accompanied  by  the  never-failing 
trumpet  as  before.  In  his  charge  he  passed  close  to  me,  when  I  saluted 
him  with  a  second  bullet  in  the  shoulder,  of  which  he  did  not  take  the 
slightest  notice.  I  now  determined  not  to  fire  again  until  I  could 
make  a  steady  shot ;  but  although  the  elephant  turned  repeatedly, 
"  Sunday  "  invariably  disappointed  me,  capering  so  that  it  was  impos- 
sible to  fire. 

At  length  exasperated,  I  became  reckless  of  the  danger,  and,  spring- 
ing from  the  saddle,  I  approached  the  elephant  under  cover  of  a 
tree,  and  gave  him  a  bullet  in  the  side  of  the  head,  when,  trumpeting 
so  shrilly  that  the  forest  trembled,  he  charged  among  the  dogs,  from 
whom  he  seemed  to  fancy  that  the  blow  had  come;  after  which  he  took 
up  a  position  in  a  grove  of  thorns,  with  his  head  towards  me.  I  walked 
up  very  near,  and  as  he  was  in  the  act  of  charging,  I  (being  in  those 
days  under  wrong  impressions  as  to  the  impracticability  of  bringing 
down  an  elephant  with  a  shot  in  the  forehead)  stood  coolly  in  his  path 
until  he  was  within  fifteen  paces  of  me,  and  let  drive  at  the  hollow  of 
his  forehead,  in  the  vain  expectation  that  by  so  doing  I  should  end  his 
career.  The  shot  only  served  to  increase  his  fury — an  effect  which,  I 
have  remarked,  shots  in  the  head  invariably  produce ;  and  continuing 
his  charge  with  incredible  quickness  and  impetuosity,  he  all  but  termin- 
ated my  elephant-hunting  for  ever. 

A  large  party  of  the  Bechuanas  who  had  come  up  yelled  out  simul- 


170    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

taneously,  imagining  I  was  killed,  for  the  elephant  was  at  one  moment 
almost  on  the  top  of  me  :  I  however  escaped  by  my  activity,  and  by 
dodging  round  the  bushy  trees.  As  the  elephant  was  charging,  an 
enormous  thorn  ran  deep  into  the  sole  of  my  foot,  the  old  Badenoch 
brogues,  which  I  that  day  sported,  being  worn  through ;  and  this 
caused  me  severe  pain,  laming  me  throughout  the  rest  of  the  conflict. 

The  elephant  held  on  through  the  forest  at  a  sweeping  pace  ;  but  he 
was  hardly  out  of  sight  when  I  was  loaded  and  in  the  saddle,  and  soon 
once  more  alongside.  About  this  time  I  heard  Isaac  blazing  away  at 
another  bull ;  but  when  the  elephant  charged,  his  cowardly  heart  failed 
him,  and  he  very  soon  made  his  appearance  at  a  safe  distance  in  my 
rear.  My  elephant  kept  crashing  along  at  a  steady  pace,  with  blood 
streaming  from  his  wounds ;  the  dogs,  which  were  knocked  up  with 
fatigue  and  thirst,  no  longer  barked  around  him,  but  had  dropped  astern. 
It  was  long  before  I  again  fired,  for  I  was  afraid  to  dismount,  and 
"  Sunday  "  was  extremely  troublesome.  At  length  I  fired  sharp  right 
and  left  from  the  saddle  :  he  got  both  balls  behind  the  shoulder  and 
made  a  long  charge  after  me,  rumbling  and  trumpeting  as  before.  The 
whole  body  of  the  Bamangwato  men  had  now  come  up,  and  were 
following  a  short  distance  behind  me.  Among  these  was  Mollyeon, 
who  volunteered  to  help  ;  and  being  a  very  swift  and  active  fellow,  he 
rendered  me  important  service  by  holding  my  fidgety  horse's  head  while 
I  fired  and  loaded.  I  then  fired  six  broadsides  from  the  saddle,  the 
elephant  charging  almost  every  time,  and  pursuing  us  back  to  the  main 
body  in  our  rear,  who  fled  in  all  directions  as  he  approached. 

The  sun  had  now  sunk  behind  the  tops  of  the  trees  :  it  would  very 
soon  be  dark,  and  the  elephant  did  not  seem  much  distressed,  notwith- 
standing all  he  had  received.  I  recollected  that  my  time  was  short, 
therefore  at  once  resolved  to  fire  no  more  from  the  saddle,  but  to  go 
close  up  to  him  and  fire  on  foot.  Riding  up  to  him  I  dismounted,  and, 
approaching  very  near,  I  gave  it  him  right  and  left  in  the  side  of  the 
head,  upon  which  he  made  a  long  and  determined  charge  after  me  ;  but 
I  was  now  very  reckless  of  his  charges,  for  I  saw  that  he  could  not 
overtake  me,  and  in  a  twinkling  I  was  loaded,  and,  again  approaching,  I 
fired  sharp  right  and  left  behind  his  shoulder.  Again  he  charged  with 
a  terrific  trumpet,  which  sent  "  Sunday  "  flying  through  the  forest. 

This  was  his  last  charge.  The  wounds  which  he  had  received  began 
to  tell  on  his  constitution,  and  he  now  stood  at  bay  beside  a  thorny 
tree,  with  the  dogs  barking  around  him.  These,  refreshed  by  the  even- 
ing breeze,  and  perceiving  that  it  was  nearly  over  with  the  elephant, 
had  once  more  come  to  my  assistance.  Having  loaded,  I  drew  near  and 
fired  right  and  left  at  his  forehead.  On  receiving  these  shots,  instead  of 
charging  he  tossed  his  trunk  up  and  down,  and  by  various  sounds  and 
motions,  most  gratifying  to  the  hungry  natives,  evinced  that  his  demise 
was  near.  Again  I  loaded,  and  fired  my  last  shot  behind  his  shoulder  : 
on  receiving  it,  he  turned  round  the  busby  tree  beside  which  he  stood, 
and  I  ran  round  to  give  him  the  other  barrel,  but  the  mighty  old  mon- 
arch of  the  forest  needed  no  more ;  before  I  could  clear  the  bushy  tree 
he  fell  heavily  on  his  side,  and  his  spirit  had  fled.      My  feelings  at  this 


CUTTING    UP    THE    ELEPHANT.  171 


moment  can  only  be  understood  by  a  few  brother  Nimrods,  who  have 
had  the  good  fortune  to  enjoy  a  similar  encounter.  I  never  felt  so 
gratified  on  any  former  occasion  as  I  did  then. 

By  this  time  all  the  natives  had  come  up  ;  they  were  in  the  highest 
spirits,  and  flocked  around  the  elephant  laughing  and  talking  at  a  rapid 
pace.  I  climbed  on  to  him,  and  sat  enthroned  upon  his  side,  which  was 
as  high  as  my  eyes  when  standing  on  the  ground.  In  a  few  minutes 
night  set  in,  when  the  natives,  having  illuminated  the  jungle  with  a 
score  of  fires,  and  formed  a  semicircle  of  bushes  to  windward,  lay  down 
to  rest  without  partaking  of  a  morsel  of  food.  Mutchuisho  would  not 
allow  a  man  to  put  an  assagai  into  the  elephant  until  the  morrow,  and 
placed  two  relays  of  sentries  to  keep  watch  on  either  side  of  him.  My 
dinner  consisted  of  a  piece  of  flesh  from  the  temple  of  the  elephant, 
which  I  broiled  on  the  hot  embers.  In  the  conflict  I  had  lost  my  shirt, 
which  was  reduced  to  streamers  by  the  wait-a-bit  thorns,  and  all  the 
clothing  that  remained  was  a  pair  of  buckskin  knee-breeches. 

The  night  was  very  cold,  it  being  now  the  dead  of  the  African 
winter.  Having  collected  dry  grass,  I  spread  it  beside  my  fire,  and  lay 
down  for  the  night  with  no  other  covering  than  an  old  sheepskin,  which 
I  had  used  for  a  saddle-cloth.  Shortly  after  I  had  dropped  asleep, 
Mutchuisho,  commiserating  my  bare  condition,  spread  an  old  jackal 
kaross  over  me.  This  kaross,  as  all  Bechuana  garments  are,  was  thickly 
tenanted  by  small  transparent  insects,  usually  denominated  lice.  These 
virulent  creatures,  probably  finding  my  skin  more  tender  than  that  of 
the  owner  of  the  kaross,  seemed  resolved  to  enjoy  a  banquet  while  they 
could  ;  and  presently  I  awoke  with  my  whole  body  so  poisoned  and  in- 
flamed that  I  felt  as  if  attacked  with  a  severe  fever.  All  further  rest 
that  night  was  at  an  end.  I  returned  the  kaross  to  Mutchuisho,  with 
grateful  acknowledgments  for  his  polite  intentions ;  and  piling  dry 
wood  on  the  fire,  which  emitted  a  light  as  bright  as  day,  I  aroused  the 
slumbering  Kleinboy  to  assist  me  in  turning  my  buckskins  outside  in, 
when  an  animating  "  chasse "  commenced,  which  terminated  in  the 
capture  of  about  fourscore  of  my  white-currant  coloured  visitors.  I 
then  lit  another  fire  opposite  to  the  first,  and  spent  the  remainder  of 
the  night  squatted  between  the  two,  thus  imbibing  caloric  before  and 
behind. 

As  the  sun  rose  on  the  morning  of  the  25th,  Mutchuisho  gave  the 
word  to  cut  up  the  elephant,  when  a  scene  of  blood,  noise,  and  turmoil 
ensued,  which  baffles  all  description.  Every  native  there,  divested  of 
his  kaross  and  armed  with  an  assagai,  rushed  to  the  onslaught ;  and  in 
less  than  two  hours  every  inch  of  the  elephant  was  gone,  and  carried  by 
the  different  parties  to  their  respective  temporary  locations,  which  they 
had  chosen  beneath  each  convenient  tree  that  grew  around. 

The  manner  in  which  the  elephant  is  cut  up  is  as  follows: — The 
rough  outer  skin  is  first  removed,  in  large  sheets,  from  the  side  which 
lies  uppermost.  Several  coats  of  an  under  skin  are  then  met  with. 
This  skin  is  of  a  tough  and  pliant  nature,  and  is  used  by  the  natives  for 
making  water-bags,  in  which  they  convey  supplies  of  water  from  the 
nearest  vley  or  fountain  (which  is  often  ten  milles  distant)  to  the  ele- 


172    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

phant.  They  remove  this  inner  skin  with  caution,  taking  care  not  to 
cut  it  with  the  assagai ;  and  it  is  formed  into  water-bags  by  gathering 
the  corners  and  edges,  and  transfixing  the  whole  on  a  pointed  wand. 
The  flesh  is  then  removed  in  enormous  sheets  from  the  ribs,  when  the 
hatchets  come  into  play,  with  which  they  chop  through,  and  remove 
individually,  each  colossal  rib.  The  bowels  are  thus  laid  bare  ;  and  in 
the  removal  of  these  the  leading  men  take  a  lively  interest  and  active 
part,  for  it  is  throughout  and  around  the  bowels  that  the  fat  of  the 
elephant  is  mainly  found. 

There  are  few  things  which  a  Bechuana  prizes  so  highly  as  fat  of  any 
description ;  they  will  go  an  amazing  distance  for  a  small  portion  of  it. 
They  use  it  principally  in  cooking  their  sun-dried  biltongue,  and  they 
also  eat  it  with  their  corn.  The  fat  of  the  elephant  lies  in  extensive 
layers  and  sheets  in  his  inside,  and  the  quantity  which  is  obtained  from 
a  full-grown  bull,  in  high  condition,  is  very  great.  Before  it  can  be 
obtained,  the  greater  part  of  the  bowels  must  be  removed.  To  accom- 
plish this,  several  men  eventually  enter  the  immense  cavity  of  his  inside, 
where  they  continue  mining  away  with  their  assagais,  and  handing  the 
fat  to  their  comrades  outside  until  all  is  bare.  While  this  is  transpiring 
with  the  sides  and  bowels,  other  parties  are  equally  active  in  removing 
the  skin  and  flesh  from  the  remaining  parts  of  the  carcase.  The  natives 
have  a  horrid  practice  on  these  occasions  of  besmearing  their  bodies, 
from  the  crown  of  the  head  to  the  sole  of  the  foot,  with  the  black  and 
clotted  gore ;  and  in  this  anointing  they  assist  one  another,  each  man 
taking  up  the  fill  of  both  his  hands,  and  spreading  it  over  the  back  and 
shoulders  of  his  friend. 

Throughout  the  entire  proceeding  an  incessant  and  deafening  clamour 
of  many  voices  and  confused  sounds  is  maintained,  and  violent  jostling 
and  wrestling  are  practised  by  every  man,  elbowing  the  breasts  and 
countenances  of  his  fellows,  all  slippery  with  gore,  as  he  endeavours  to 
force  his  way  to  the  venison  through  the  dense  intervening  ranks,  while 
the  sharp  and  ready  assagai  gleams  in  every  hand.  The  angry  voices 
and  gory  appearances  of  these  naked  savages,  combined  with  their 
excited  aud  frantic  gestures  and  glistening  arms,  presented  an  effect  so 
wild  and  striking,  that  when  I  first  beheld  the  scene  I  contemplated  it 
in  the  momentary  expectation  of  beholding  one  half  of  the  gathering 
turn  their  weapons  against  the  other. 

The  trunk  and  feet  are  considered  a  delicacy,  and  a  detachment  are 
employed  on  these.  The  four  feet  are  amputated  at  the  fetlock  joint, 
and  the  trunk,  which  at  the  base  is  about  two  feet  in  thickness,  is  cut 
into  convenient  lengths.  Trunk  and  feet  are  then  baked,  preparatory 
to  their  removal  to  head-quarters.  The  manner  in  which  this  is  done  is 
as  follows  : — A  party,  provided  with  sharp-pointed  sticks,  dig  a  hole  in 
the  ground  for  each  foot  and  a  portion  of  the  trunk.  These  holes  are 
about  two  feet  deep,  and  a  yard  in  width  ;  the  excavated  earth  is 
embanked  around  the  margin  of  the  hole.  This  work  being  completed, 
they  next  collect  an  immense  quantity  of  dry  branches  and  trunks  of 
trees,  of  which  there  is  always  a  profusion  scattered  around,  having 
been  broken  by  the  elephants  in  former  years.     These  they  pile  above 


ELEPHANT     COOKING.  173 


the  holes  to  the  height  of  eight  or  nine  feet,  and  then  set  fire  to  the 
heap.  When  these  strong  fires  have  burnt  down,  and  the  whole  of  the 
wood  is  reduced  to  ashes,  the  holes  and  the  surrounding  earth  are 
heated  in  a  high  degree. 

Ten  or  twelve  men  then  stand  round  the  pit,  and  rake  out  the  ashes 
with  a  pole  about  sixteen  feet  in  length,  having  a  hook  at  the  end. 
They  relieve  one  another  in  quick  succession,  each  man  running  in  and 
raking  the  ashes  for  a  few  seconds,  and  then  pitching  the  pole  to  his 
comrade  and  retreating,  since  the  heat  is  so  intense  that  it  is  scarcely  to 
be  endured.  When  all  the  ashes  are  thus  raked  out  beyond  the 
surrounding  bank  of  earth,  each  elephant's  foot  and  portion  of  the  trunk 
is  lifted  by  two  athletic  men,  standing  side  by  side,  who  place  it  on  their 
shoulders ;  and  approaching  the  pit  together,  they  heave  it  into  it.  The 
long  pole  is  now  again  resumed,  and  with  it  they  shove  in  the  heated 
bank  of  earth  upon  the  foot,  shoving  and  raking  until  it  is  completely 
buried  in  the  earth.  The  hot  embers,  of  which  there  is  always  a  great 
supply,  are  then  raked  into  a  heap  above  the  foot,  and  another  bonfire 
is  kindled  over  each,  which  is  allowed  to  burn  down  and  die  a  natural 
death  ;  by  which  time  the  enormous  foot  or  trunk  will  be  found  to  be 
equally  baked  throughout  its  inmost  parts.  When  the  foot  is  supposed 
to  be  ready,  it  is  taken  out  of  the  ground  with  pointed  sticks,  and  is 
first  well  beaten,  and  then  scraped  with  an  assagai,  whereby  adhering 
particles  of  sand  are  got  rid  of.  The  outside  is  then  pared  off,  and  it 
is  transfixed  with  a  sharp  stake  for  facility  of  carriage. 

The  feet  thus  cooked  are  excellent,  as  is  also  the  trunk,  which  very 
much  resembles  buffalo's  tongue.  The  reason  why  such  large  fires  are 
requisite  is  owing  to  the  mass  of  the  flesh  that  must  be  baked.  In 
raking  the  sand  on  the  foot,  the  natives  are  careful  not  to  rake  the  red- 
hot  embers  in  with  it,  which  would  burn  and  destroy  the  meat ;  whereas 
the  sand  or  earth  protects  it,  imparting  an  even  and  steady  heat.  When 
the  natives  have  cut  up  the  elephant,  and  removed  the  large  masses  of 
flesh,  etc.,  to  their  respective  temporary  kraals  around,  they  sit  down 
for  a  little  to  rest  and  draw  their  breath,  and  for  a  short  time  smoking 
and  snuffing  are  indulged  in. 

The  Bechuana  pipe  is  of  a  very  primitive  description,  differing  from 
any  I  had  ever  seen.  When  they  wish  to  smoke  they  moisten  a  spot  of 
earth,  not  being  particular  whence  they  obtain  the  water.  Into  this 
earth  they  insert  a  green  twig,  bent  into  a  semicircle,  whose  bend  is 
below  the  said  earth,  and  both  ends  protruding.  They  then  knead  the 
moist  earth  down  with  their  knuckles  on  the  twig,  which  they  work 
backwards  and  forwards  until  a  hole  is  established,  when  the  twig  is 
withdrawn,  and  one  end  of  the  aperture  is  enlarged  with  the  fingers,  so 
as  to  form  a  bowl  to  contain  the  tobacco.  The  pipe  is  thus  finished  and 
ready  for  immediate  use,  when  tobacco  and  fire  are  introduced,  and  the 
smoker  drops  on  his  knees,  and  resting  on  the  palms  of  his  hands,  he 
brings  his  lips  in  contact  with  the  mud  at  the  small  end  of  the  hole,  and 
thus  inhales  the  grateful  fumes.  Large  volumes  of  smoke  are  emitted 
through  the  nostrils,  while  a  copious  flow  of  tears  from  the  eyes  of  the 
smoker  evinces  the  pleasure  he  enjoys.     One  of  these  pipes  will  serve 

11 


174    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


a  large  party,  who  replenish  the   bowl  and   relieve   one  another  in 
succession. 

The  natives,  having  drawn  their  breath,  once  more  devote  their 
attention  to  the  flesh,  which  they  next  reduce  to  biltongue,  cutting  every 
morsel  into  thin  strips  from  six  to  twenty  feet  in  length.  These  strips 
are  of  the  breadth  and  thickness  of  a  man's  two  fingers.  When  all  is 
reduced  to  biltongue  they  sally  forth  with  their  tomahawks,  and  cut 
down  a  number  of  poles  of  two  sorts,  for  uprights  and  cross-poles.  The 
uprights  are  eight  feet  long,  and  forked  at  one  end.  They  place  them 
upright  in  the  ground  around  their  respective  trees,  laying  the  cross- 
poles  resting  on  the  forks,  and  these  are  adorned  with  endless  garlands 
of  the  raw  meat,  which  is  permitted  to  hang  in  the  sun  for  two  or  three 
days,  when  it  will  have  lost  much  of  its  weight,  and  be  stiff  and  easy  to 
be  carried.  They  then  remove  the  biltongue  from  the  poles,  and,  fold- 
ing it  together,  they  form  it  into  bundles,  which  are  strongly  lashed  and 
secured  with  long  strips  of  the  tough  inner  bark  of  thorny  mimosas'. 
Their  work  in  the  forest  is  now  completed,  and,  each  man  placing  one 
bundle  on  his  head,  and  slinging  several  others  across  his  shoulders, 
returns  to  his  wife  and  family  at  head-quatters. 

The  appearance  which  the  flesh  of  a  single  elephant  exhibits  when 
reduced  to  strips  and  suspended  from  the  poles  is  truly  surprising,  the 
forest  far  around  displaying  a  succession  of  ruby  festoons,  and  reminding 
one  of  a  vineyard  laden  with  its  clustering  fruits.  When  the  skull  of 
my  elephant  was  ready  for  the  axe,  Mutchuisho  caused  a  party  to  hew 
out  for  me  the  tusks — a  work  of  great  labour  and  needing  considerable 
skill.  In  the  present  instance  the  work  was  clumsily  executed,  the 
natives  hacking  and  injuring  the  ivory  in  removing  the  bone  with  their 
little  tomahawks.  In  consequence  of  this  I  invariably  afterwards 
performed  the  task  myself,  using  superior  American  hatchets,  which  I 
had  provided  expressly  for  the  purpose.  When  the  tusks  had  been 
extracted,  I  saddled  up,  and  started  for  the  camp,  accompanied  by  my 
after-riders  and  a  party  of  the  natives  bearing  the  ivory,  with  a  supply 
of  baked  foot  and  trunk  and  a  portion  of  the  flesh.  The  natives  had 
appropriated  all  the  rest,  and  when  I  left  them  they  were  quarelling 
over  the  remnant  of  the  skull,  whose  marrowy  bones  were  in  high 
demand.  They  fought  for  every  chip  as  it  flew  from  the  axe,  and 
chewed  it  raw.  On  our  way  to  camp  we  passed  through  the  kraal  of 
the  Bakalahari,  situated  in  the  mountain  range.  In  the  valleys  they 
had  formed  considerable  gardens,  in  which  corn  and  water-melons  were 
extensively  grown.  I  was  right  glad  to  reach  my  comfortable  camp 
and  get  a  bowl  of  coffee. 

On  the  evening  of  the  26th  men  kept  pouring  into  camp  heavily  laden 
with  the  flesh  of  the  elephant,  a  large  part  of  which  was  for  Sicomy  : 
they  halted  with  me  for  the  night,  and  resumed  their  march  in  the 
morning. 


CHAR  XYI 


ELEPHANT    SPOORING.  175 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Elephant  spooring  with  the  Natives — The  Mystic  Dice — Hunt  in  a  Wait-a-bit  Thorn 
Cover — Romantic  Gorge  in  the  Mountains — Sabie — Ancient  Elephant  Path — 
Ludicrous  Native  Signal — A  noble  Bull  Elephant  slain — Isaac,  my  Interpreter, 
dismissed — A  Lioness  bagged  at  one  shot — Drunkenness  and  Disorder  in  Camp 
— My  manner  of  taking  the  Field  after  the  larger  Game — Sicomy's  Followers 
desert  me. 

On  the  27th  of  July  I  resolved  to  move  my  waggons  further  to  the  east, 
and  informed  the  waggon-drivers  of  my  intentions  :  they  however  raised 
many  objections,  and  all  but  gave  me  a  direct  refusal.  As  I  was  not 
aware  of  the  position  of  the  waters,  and  knowing  well  that  Isaac  would 
not  assist  me  in  discovering  them,  I  deemed  it  prudent  first  to  make  an 
excursion  to  the  east  on  horseback.  I  accordingly  stowed  some 
ammunition  and  a  washing-rod  in  my  old  game-bag  (to  the  inside  of 
which,  by  the  by,  adhered  a  goodly  coating  of  the  scales  of  grilse  and 
salmon,  along  with  sundry  speckled  and  blood-stained  feathers  of  the 
grouse  and  partridge),  and  having  made  bread  and  ground  coffee  sufficient 
for  three  days'  consumption,  I  ordered  two  of  my  men  to  be  ready  to 
accompany  me  next  morning.  My  interpreter's  countenance  never  lacked 
a  scowl ;  and,  instead  of  forwarding  my  interests,  he  actively  employed 
his  energies  in  sowing  dissension  betwixt  me  and  the  natives,  and 
disseminating  mutiny  among  the  Hottentots.  I  discovered  that  all 
along  he  had  deceived  me,  and  carefully  concealed  the  direction  where 
most  elephants  abounded,  and  I  began  to  think  that,  in  justice  to 
myself,  it  was  high  time  that  he  should  be  ignominously  dismissed  the 
service. 

On  the  28th,  as  I  was  breakfasting,  natives  arrived  and  reported  fresh 
spoor  within  a  mile  of  camp.  I  therefore  resolved  to  defer  for  the 
present  the  trip  to  the  eastward  on  which  I  had  determined ;  but  it  so 
happened  that  the  spoor  which  was  reported  led  me  in  that  direction, 
and  was  the  means  of  introducing  me  to  a  succession  of  fine  hunting- 
districts,  throughout  which  elephant  and  rhinoceros  were  abundant. 
Everything  being  ready,  I  proceeded  to  take  up  the  spoor  ;  accompanied 
by  after-riders  and  about  a  hundred  of  the  Bamangwato  men,  fresh 
parties  having  joined  me  :  it  was  the  spoor  of  a  small  troop  of  cow 
elephants.  Mutchuisho  and  the  spooring  party  took  it  up  in  a 
masterly  manner,  and  went  along  at  a  rapid  pace  all  day,  with  scarcely  a 
check,  until  we  found  the  elephants.  The  spoor  led  us  first  through  a 
gorge  in  the  mountains,  which  I  mentioned  as  having  rounded  on  the 
24th ;  after  which  we  followed  it  in  an  easterly  course,  skirting  the  base 
of  the  mountain  chain.  The  country  increased  in  beauty  as  we  ad- 
vanced; and,  having  followed  the  spoor  some  hours,  it  led  us  into  a  new 
variety  of  country,  and,  as  I  fancied,  into  a  new  climate.  Here  large 
trees  were  abundant,  and  the  grass  and  leaves  were  much  greener  than 
in  the  country  we  had  left  behind.  We  crossed  the  gravelly  beds  of 
two  periodical  rivers.  In  one  of  these  I  observed  the  recent  spoor  of  a 
herd  of  bull  elephants  deeply  imprinted  in  the  sand.     This  day  the 


176     HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

wind,  which  had  for  weeks  been  cold  and  blighting,  blowing  off  the  ice- 
bergs of  the  Southern  Ocean,  shifted  to  north-east,  and  breathed  warm 
and  balmy  upon  us. 

As  we  advanced  the  work  of  elephants  became  more  and  more  ap- 
parent on  the  trees  and  in  the  earth,  and  late  in  the  afternoon,  we 
reached  ground  where  a  large  herd  of  cows  had  fed  that  morning.  Here 
we  had  a  short  check,  when  Mutchuisho  rated  the  trackers  for  their 
negligence  ;  and,  having  despatched  parties  to  try  back  upon  the  spoor, 
and  extended  others  to. make  casts  on  our  right  and  left,  he  leisurely 
ensconced  himself  beneath  a  shady  tree,  and  proceeded,  along  with 
several  of  his  cronies,  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  taking  snuff,  which  impor- 
tant ceremony  having  been  duly  performed,  they  began  with  the  utmost 
gravity  to  smooth  a  portion  of  the  ground  before  them,  preparatory  to 
casting  the  mystic  dice  which  most  of  the  Bechuanas  carry  strung 
around  their  necks.  These  dice,  which  are  of  sundry  indescribable 
shapes,  are  formed  of  ivory,  and  the  Bechuanas  invariably  appeal  to 
them  before  entering  upon  any  project  of  importance  to  ascertain  the 
probability  of  its  ultimate  success.  Having  unstrung  the  dice,  which 
are  four  in  number,  they  rattle  them  between  their  hand,  and  drop 
them  on  the  ground,  when  the  long-headed  old  men  carefully  study  the 
directions  of  the  points,  and  decide  the  merits  of  the  case  accordingly. 

In  the  present  instance  the  dice  spoke  favourably,  auguring  the  speedy 
capture  of  an  elephant ;  and  one  of  the  trackers  at  this  moment  coming 
up,  and  stating  that  his  comrades  had  regained  the  spoor,  we  sprang  to 
our  feet,  and  again  held  on.  We  had  proceeded  about  half  a  mile  when 
we  suddenly  beheld  a  herd  of  about  twelve  old  cow  elephants,  some  of 
which  were  accompanied  by  little  calves,  feeding  high  on  the  side  of  the 
rocky  mountains,  about  five  hundred  yards  to  our  right.  The  interven- 
ing ground  was  a  dense  and  almost  impenetrable  mass  of  wait-a-bit 
thorny  bushes,  averaging  twenty  feet  in  height,  every  inch  of  which 
was  to  be  dreaded  as  the  hooks  upon  a  "kill-devil."  On  perceiving  the 
elephants  we  halted,  and  Mutchuischo  despatched  two  men  to  wind- 
ward, in  the  hope  of  driving  them  from  the  impracticable  ground  they 
occupied  into  the  level  forest  where  we  stood.  The  elephants,  however, 
were  much  too  wide  awake  to  leave  their  stronghold  of  wait-a-bit  bushes. 
On  getting  the  wind  of  the  men  they  tossed  their  trunks,  and,  wheeling 
about,  they  held  along  the  mountain  side  at  a  rapid  pace  until  they 
reached  an  impenetrable  jungle  of  thorns,  from  which  all  our  efforts 
proved  unavailing  to  dislodge  them. 

This  jungle  densely  covered  the  sides  and  bottom  of  a  wide  semicir- 
cular basin  or  hollow  in  the  mountains ;  it  was  throughout  so  dense, 
that  a  man  on  foot  could  scarcely  penetrate  it.  When  the  elephants 
started  I  rode  hard  after  them,  followed  by  my  after-riders,  and,  not 
understanding  the  intentions  of  the  elephants,  we  followed  on  through 
the  mazes  of  the  jungle  in  an  elephant  path,  until  we  reached  the  centre 
of  the  thicket,  when  we  suddenly  found  ourselves  upon  them.  The 
dogs  then  ran  in  barking,  when  a  general  trumpeting  took  place,  and 
a  charging  and  crashing  in  all  directions,  and,  owing  to  the  extremely 
dangerous  nature  of  the  ground,  I  was  glad  to  beat  a  precipitate  retreat. 


DANGERS    OF    ELEPHANT    HUNTING.       177 

Once  more  all  was  quiet ;  my  dogs  were  jaded  with  the  sun,  and 
would  not  fight.  Fancying  that  the  elephants  had  gone  ahead,  and  fear- 
ing to  lose  them,  I  again  pushed  on,  holding  the  footpath  as  before ; 
when  crash  came  a  second  charge  of  elephants  at  our  very  elbows,  ac- 
companied by  a  trumpeting  which  caused  our  ears  to  tingle.  They 
charged  upon  us  from  opposite  directions,  and  we  were  actually  in  the 
very  middle  of  them.  They  were  extremely  fierce,  and,  but  for  the 
dogs,  not  a  man  of  us  had  escaped  to  tell  the  tale.  Fortunately,  the 
dogs,  which  they  seemed  to  think  designed  the  capture  of  their  calves, 
engrossed  their  whole  attention ;  whereas,  by  reason  of  the  colour  of 
the  horses  on  which  we  rode,  they  took  us  for  gregarious  creatures  like 
themselves ;  and  actually  grazing  our  animals'  haunches  with  their  legs, 
they  left  us  scatheless  and  pursued  the  dogs.  I  seldom  remember  a 
more  startling  or  dangerous  position ;  it  was  a  decided  case  of  "De'il 
tak  the  hin'most."  Spurs  and  jamboks  were  energetically  plied ;  there 
was  no  time  to  select  a  path.  Placing  my  head  below  my  horse's  neck 
and  trusting  to  Providence,  I  charged  through  the  thickest  of  the  thorns, 
and  presently  found  myself  out  of  the  way  of  the  elephants.  I  know 
nothing  which  so  effectually  teaches  a  hunter  the  art  of  riding  through 
"Vacht  um  big6,"  or  "wait-a-bit"  jungle,  in  an  artistical  manner,  as 
hearing  the  trumpet  of  an  enraged  elephant,  which  is  following  about  a 
spear's  length  in  his  wake.  After  a  few  such  lessons  he  will  have  learnt 
to  bring  his  breast  in  contact  with  the  side  of  his  horse's  neck,  his  head 
being  well  under  it,  whereby  his  prominent  feature  will  be  secured,  and, 
agitating  his  persuaders,  he  will  drive  through  the  most  impracticable 
"wait-a-bits,"  with  apparently  the  facility  with  which  an  Eton  boy  takes 
a  header  into  the  Thames  at  the  Lion's  Leap. 

With  very  great  difficulty  we  got  clear  of  the  cover,  and  gained  the 
level  forest  on  the  lower  side.  By  this  time  the  natives  had  lined  the 
side  of  the  mountain  above  the  cover,  and  were  shouting  and  yelling  in 
the  hope  of  driving  out  the  elephants  \  but  not  a  man  would  venture  in. 
Presently  some  of  them  came  round  to  me,  and  I  proposed  to  go  in  on 
foot,  but  they  would  not  hear  of  it,  saying  that  the  elephants  were  ex- 
tremely fierce,  and  would  kill  me  to  a  certainty.  I  then  proposed  that 
all  the  natives  should  enter  the  jungle  in  a  line,  and  try  to  drive  them 
out,  but  they  said  that  no  power  could  force  the  elephants  from  their 
stronghold  until  night  set  in. 

The  elephants  now  shifted  their  ground  a  little,  forcing  their  way 
through  the  jungle  to  the  higher  side  of  the  basin.  Leaving  the  horses 
in  charge  of  a  native,  I  went  round  to  the  line  of  men  above.  Here  I 
commanded  a  fine  view  of  the  exasperated  elephants,  being  high  above 
them,  and  distant  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  and  I  observed 
that  they  displayed  considerable  cunning  in  their  movements.  Placing 
my  rifle  on  a  forked  branch,  and  giving  it  the  proper  elevation,  I  let 
drive  at  the  nearest  cow,  and  wounded  her  severely.  The  shot  rever- 
berated through  the  dale,  and  the  dogs  once  more  ran  into  the  midst  of 
them,  when  a  general  charge  and  trumpeting  ensued,  which  was  truly 
terrific.  They  rushed  after  the  dogs,  following  them  up  to  a  great  dis- 
tance, crashing  through  and  upsetting  the  high  bushy  wait-a-bits  and 


178  HUNTING  AND  SPOETING  ADVENTURES. 

other  trees  like  grass.  They  then  turned  and  formed  in  two  separate 
detachments,  standing  thick  together ;  but  two  wicked  old  cows  that 
had  calves  stood  far  out  from  the  others,  with  their  heads  turned  to  us, 
ready  to  charge  whatever  might  approach. 

I  saw  that  it  was  extremely  dangerous  to  attack  them,  but  the  sun 
was  now  fast  sinking  behind  a  shoulder  of  the  mountains,  so  I  resolved 
to  defy  all  chances  and  enter  the  cover.  I  first,  however,  fired  two  shots 
at  the  elephants  that  formed  the  advanced  piquets  ;  both  cows  got  it  in 
the  ribs,  and,  finding  themselves  wounded,  retreated  to  the  main  body, 
where  they  stood  smashing  the  trees  with  rage,  and,  catching  up  volumes 
of  the  red  dust  with  their  trunks,  threw  it  in  clouds  above  their  backs. 
Mutchuisho  and  I  now  descended  into  the  jungle,  and  crept  stealthily 
along,  listening  for  the  breathing  of  the  elephants.  They  had  moved  to 
the  lower  side,  and  were  standing  thick  together  within  one  hundred 
yards  of  the  outside.  On  ascertaining  their  position,  we  emerged  from 
the  cover,  and  followed  along  the  outside  until  we  were  opposite  them. 
I  then  stalked  in  within  twenty  yards,  and  fired  at  the  side  of  the  head 
of  the  elephant  that  stood  next  to  me;  and  before  the  smoke  had  cleared 
my  back  was  to  them,  and  I  was  running  for  the  outside  of  the  cover  at 
my  utmost  speed.  The  elephants  held  their  ground ;  so,  having  loaded, 
I  again  drew  near  and  fired  sharp  right  and  left  into  another,  and  turn- 
ing my  back  I  ran  for  it  once  more.  Ee-entering  the  cover  a  third  time, 
I  was  listening  which  way  they  had  gone,  when,  casting  my  eyes  to  the 
left,  a  noble  elephant  lay  dead  before  me.  The  ball  had  penetrated  to 
her  brain,  and  she  had  dropped  dead  upon  the  spot. 

A  little  after  this  an  old  cow  came  charging  after  the  dogs,  and  took 
up  a  position  in  the  jungle  close  beside  us.  We  heard  her  preparing  for 
a  second  charge,  when  the  natives  beat  a  precipitate  retreat,  but  I  very 
rashly  waited  to  receive  her,  and  just  as  she  cleared  the  cover  I  let  fly 
at  her  forehead.  Eegardless  of  my  shot,  she  came  down  upon  me  a,t  a 
tremendous  pace,  shrilly  trumpeting.  It  was  rather  a  near  thing,  for  I 
was  burdened  with  my  rifle  and  rhinoceros-horn  loading-rod,  and  my 
shooting-belt  containing  about  forty  rounds  of  ammunition.  I  escaped 
her  by  my  speed,  and  the  instant  she  halted  I  faced  about,  and  gave  her 
the  other  barrel  behind  the  shoulder. 

Night  now  set  in,  and  I  saw  no  more  of  the  elephants.  A  number  of 
them  were  wounded  and  must  have  died  ;  I,  however,  felt  satisfied  with 
the  one  I  had  secured.  The  natives  made  me  more  cautious  than  I 
should  otherwise  have  been,  and,  had  we  found  them  at  an  earlier  hour, 
I  should  probably  have  killed  one  half  the  troop.  Weary  and  hungry, 
we  formed  our  kraals  and  kindled  fires ;  after  which,  having  partaken 
of  the  elephant,  I  lay  down  to  sleep  beside  my  fire. 

On  the  29th  I  sent  Oarollus  to  the  waggons  with  instruction  to  bring 
all  the  horses  and  the  Bushman,  with  bread,  coffee,  and  ammunition. 
In  the  forenoon  I  ascended  the  neighbouring  mountain-range,  to  obtain 
a  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  On  clearing  the  first  ridge  I  looked 
down  upon  a  bold  and  romantic  gorge,  which  here  intersected  the 
mountain  chain,  connecting  the  forests  on  either  side.  Far  below  me 
through  the  bottom  of  the  ravine  twined  the  gravelly  bed  of  a  periodical 


ON    THE    SPOOR    OF    A    BULL    ELEPHANT.  179 

river,  which  in  the  rainy  season  flows  in  an  easterly  direction.  Though 
in  all  other  parts  this  gravelly  channel  was  now  dry,  yet  just  at  this 
spot,  deep  in  the  bosom  of  the  mountains,  its  bed  was  covered  with 
delicious  spring  water  to  a  depth  of  several  inches ;  and  here  the  ele- 
phants had  excavated  sundry  holes,  about  two  feet  deep,  for  the  purpose 
of  drinking.  I  descended  to  the  water  by  an  elephant-path,  and  stood 
long  contemplating  the  interesting  spot.  The  bed  of  the  river  was 
deeply  imprinted  with  the  spoor  of  elephants,  buffaloes,  and  rhinoceros, 
of  various  dates.  The  gorge  was  wide  and  open  by  the  water,  and  its 
abrupt  and  rocky  sides  were  adorned  with  a  profusion  of  trees  and 
shrubs.  A  little  farther  down  the  gorge  was  more  confined,  the  river 
winding  through  huge  perpendicular  walls  of  rock,  that  raised  their 
giant  forms  on  both  sides  to  a  height  of  several  hundred  feet. 

From  the  basis  of  these  stupendous  ramparts  to  the  margin  of  the 
river  on  either  side  was  a  sloping  bank,  along  which  grew  an  avenue  of 
picturesque  acacias  of  enormous  bulk  and  lofty  stature ;  beneath  these 
were  well-beaten  paths  of  elephants,  and  the  sides  of  the  trees  were  well 
polished  to  the  usual  distance  from  the  ground.  Leaving  the  river,  I 
ascended  to  the  summits  of  loftier  hills  beyond,  where  I  commanded  a 
glorious  prospect  of  the  endless  grey  forests  which  stretched  away  as 
far  as  I  could  see  over  slightly  undulating  country,  the  faint  blue  outline 
of  extensive  mountain  ranges  bounding  the  landscape  to  the  east.' 
Descending  from  my  lofty  station,  I  discovered  four  bull-buffaloes 
feeding  in  the  valley  far  beneath  me  ;  I  left  them  undisturbed,  and  bent 
my  steps  towards  the  carcase  of  the  elephant. 

In  the  evening  Carollus  arrived,  bringing  the  horses  and  ammunition, 
and  accompanied  by  a  numerous  body  of  the  natives.  At  an  early  hour 
on  the  30th  I  started  with  Mutchuisho  and  a  numerous  retinue  to  search 
for  elephants  in  an  easterly  direction  ;  and  we  crossed  the  gravelly  bed  of 
the  river  Mahalapia,  about  a  mile  below  the  gorge  I  had  visited  on  the 
preceding  day.  In  after  years  I  renewed  my  acquaintance  with  the 
Mahalapia,  on  the  banks  of  the  fair  Limpopo,  into  which  it  empties 
itself  several  days'  journey  to  the  east. 

This  was  one  of  the  loveliest  spots  I  had  seen  in  Southern  Africa : 
a  bold  bend  of  the  river  was  adorned  with  groves  of  remarkably  lofty 
and  picturesque  acacias.  Three  trees  in  particular,  of  the  same  des- 
scription,  graced  the  spot,  which  in  size  and  beauty  surpassed  any  I  had 
hitherto  met  with,  carrying  their  thickness  to  an  immense  height  from 
the  ground,  when  they  divided  into  goodly  branches,  which  stretched 
away  in  beauty  to  the  skies. 

Here,  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  we  took  up  the  spoor  of  a  huge  bull 
elephant ;  and  having  followed  it  a  short  distance  through  the  verdant 
forest,  we  started  the  old  fellow,  but  no  man  saw  him.  The  great  body 
of  the  natives  never  would  be  quiet,  and  ever  pressed  upon  the  spooring 
party,  notwithstanding  my  remonstrances.  One  native  heard  him,  but 
said  he  thought  it  was  a  rhinoceros.  In  half  a  minute,  however,  we 
discovered  our  mistake,  and  there  ensued  a  general  rush  upon  the  spoor, 
at  a  pace  which  must  shortly  have  overtaken  him,  for  he  had  not 
started  in  great  alarm.      Whistling  to  my  dogs,  they  took  up  the 


L  £> 


180  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

scent  and  went  ahead ;  but  as  I  galloped  after  them,  expecting  every 
instant  to  behold  the  elephant,  whose  spoor  I  now  saw  beneath  my 
horse's  feet,  an  unlucky  troop  of  camelopards  dashed  across  our  path, 
and  away  went  all  the  dogs,  leaving  me  in  the  lurch  just  as  I  was 
upon  the  elephant.  The  trackers,  however,  soon  came  up,  and  we  again 
held  briskly  on;  but  had  not  proceeded  far  when  we  entered  upon 
ground  so  covered  with  fresh  footmarks  that  the  trackers  in  their  haste 
overran  the  spoor  we  followed,  and  a  long  check  was  the  result.  Here, 
to  add  to  my  annoyance,  another  large  herd  of  camelopards  came 
cantering  up  the  wind,  and  dashed  away  before  us,  to  spread  further 
alarm. 

Old  Mutchuisho  now  came  up  in  a  state  of  intense  excitement,  his 
watery  eyes  fixed  upon  the  ground,  and  his  tongue  going  like  perpetual 
motion.  He  blew  up  the  trackers  right  and  left,  who  seemed  to  quail 
before  his  menacing  aspect,  and  redoubled  their  energies  in  the  doubt- 
ful pursuit.  Presently  one  of  these,  loudly  smacking  his  "  nether  end," 
intimated  that  he  had  hit  off  the  proper  spoor.  This  peculiar  signal,  I 
remarked,  was  used  by  the  Bechuanas  to  warn  one  another  on  various 
occasions.  In  spooring  game  it  was  invariably  practised  ;  and  when  a 
line  of  men  were  threading  the  mazes  of  the  forest,  each  warned  the 
man  behind  him  of  any  rough  sticks,  stones,  or  thorns  which  lay  across 
the  path,  by  the  same  elegant  and  friendly  gesture. 

We  resumed  the  spoor  at  a  rapid  pace,  with  a  widely  extended  front, 
and  presently  on  my  left  I  heard  the  joyous  signal  of  the  presence, 
"  Klow ; "  and,  cantering  in  that  direction,  I  came  full  in  sight  of  an 
enormous  bull  elephant,  marching  along  at  a  free  majestic  pace,  and  in 
another  minute  I  was  riding  by  his  side.  The  horse  which  I  bestrode 
on  this  occasion  was  "  The  Cow,"  one  of  my  best  and  steadiest  shoot- 
ing-horses ;  and  the  forest  being  tolerably  suited  for  the  sport,  I  was 
not  long  in  finishing  the  elephant.  I  fired  thirteen  bullets  at  his  head 
and  shoulder  ;  on  receiving  the  last  two  shots  sharp  right  and  left  be- 
hind the  shoulder,  he  made  a  rapid  charge,  and  disappeared  among  the 
trees.  Cautiously  following,  I  discovered  him  lying  in  an  upright 
position,  with  his  two  fore-legs  stretched  out  before  him.  Fancying  he 
was  still  alive,  I  fired  both  barrels  at  his  ear;  but  though  the  balls  rang 
loudly  on  his  venerable  head,  the  noble  elephant  heeded  not  their  force ; 
his  ancient  spirit  had  departed. 

This  was  a  very  large  old  elephant ;  but  his  tusks  were  much  de- 
stroyed, being  worn  down,  and  having  been  broken  (probably  in  rocky 
ground)  in  former  years.  Mutchuisho  appeared  in  the  highest  glee,  and 
despatched  messengers  through  the  gorge  in  the  mountains,  the  name  of 
which  is  Sabi6,  to  advise  Sicomy  of  the  death  of  the  elephant.  The 
chase  had  led  me  to  within  rifle  range  of  the  three  veteran  acacias  I  ad- 
mired in  the  morning.  I  made  my  bower  and  a  couch  of  grass  beneath 
a  shady  wait-a-bit  thorn -tree,  and  encircled  my  fire  with  a  hedge  of  the 
same  description. 

I  resolved  to  bring  on  my  waggons  to  the  pass  of  Sabi6,  where  there 
was  sufficient  water  for  all  my  cattle,  my  intention  being  to  continue 
hunting  through  the  forests  to  the  eastward,  returning  to  Bamangwato 


SHOOTING    A    LIONESS.  181 


by  a  different  route.  I,  however,  foresaw  that  I  must  give  Isaac  his 
dismissal  before  proposing  such  a  measure ;  and  accordingly  I  rode  to 
camp  on  the  1st  day  of  August,  and  informed  Mr.  Isaac  that  his 
valuable  services  could  for  the  future  be  dispensed  with,  requesting  at 
the  same  time  that  he  would  make  himself  scarce  as  quickly  as  possible. 
I  then  explained  to  my  Hottentots  my  future  course ;  and  having 
directed  them  to  inspan  and  follow  me  to  Sabi6,  under  guidance  of  the 
natives,  I  mounted  the  Old  Grey,  and  started  to  return  to  my  bower  on 
the  bank  of  the  Mahalapia.  The  country  between  Letlochee  and  Sabi6 
was  almost  impracticable  for  waggons,  the  forest  in  many  parts  being 
extremely  dense,  and  sundry  difficult  nullahs  intervening.  I  therefore 
did  not  expect  them  to  reach  their  destination  till  the  afternoon  of  the 
following  day.  My  men,  however,  did  not  appear  until  the  evening  of 
the  third  day.  They  did  not  seem  at  all  to  fancy  the  idea  of  following 
me  farther  through  the  wilderness;  but  finding  they  could  make  no 
better  of  it,  they  submitted  to  their  fate  ;  and  no  sooner  had  I  turned 
my  back  than  Mr.  Kleinboy  proposed  that  they  should  drown  their 
sorrows  in  the  bowl.  This  brilliant  idea  was  unanimously  seconded  by 
all  the  rest.  Axes  and  hatchets  were  immediately  resorted  to,  the 
liquor  was  obtained,  and  before  I  had  been  gone  an  hour  all  hands  were 
mortal  drunk. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  day  I  started  with  about  sixty 
natives  to  look  for  elephants.  We  filled  our  water  kalabashes  at  an 
elephant's  hole  in  the  bed  of  the  Mahalapia,  and  held  east  through  the 
forest ;  and  presently  we  discovered  the  fresh  spoor  of  two  bull  ele- 
phants. As  we  were  threading  the  spoor,  the  dogs  dashed  up  wind  on 
some  scent,  and  the  forest  was  awakened  with  their  music.  I  imagined 
they  had  found  the  elephants,  and  pressed  through  the  thicket  at  my 
utmost  speed.  As  I  approached  I  heard  a  hoarse  noise  like  the  voice  of 
an  elephant ;  but  my  eye  sought  in  vain  for  his  lofty  back  towering 
above  the  wait-a-bits.  I  then  fancied  it  must  be  a  buffalo ;  but  on 
rounding  the  thick  bush,  behind  which  my  dogs  were  barking,  I  came 
full  in  sight  of  an  angry  lioness,  which  stood  lashing  her  tail,  and  growl- 
ing fiercely  at  the  dogs. 

Observing  the  lioness,  I  shouted  to  the  natives,  who  were  pressing 
forward,  that  it  was  "Tao,"  when  a  headlong  retreat  was  the  immediate 
result,  a  number  of  the  party  taking  refuge  in  the  trees.  I  dismounted, 
and,  advancing  to  within  twenty  yards  of  the  lioness,  I  waited  till  she 
turned  her  head,  avhen  I  fired  at  the  back  of  her  neck,  and  stretched 
her  lifeless  on  the  ground.  The  bullet  had  passed  along  the  spine,  and, 
penetrating  the  skull,  rested  in  her  brain.  On  shouting  to  the  natives, 
for  a  long  time  none  of  them  would  venture  to  approach,  and,  when  at 
length  they  did,  their  astonishment  knew  no  bounds  at  beholding  their 
formidable  enemy  so  easily  disposed  of.  Having  resumed  the  spoor  of 
the  elephants,  we  soon  ascertained  that  the  hubbub  with  the  lioness  had 
started  them ;  and  after  following  the  spoor  some  distance  through 
dense  jungle,  and  over  very  rocky  ground,  along  the  mountain  side, 
the  trackers  declared  themselves  to  be  fairly  beaten  and  we  gave  it  up. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  3rd  I  again  held  east  with  a  large  retinue  to 


182  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

seek  for  elephants.  We  took  up  spoor  at  the  fountains  where  I 
discovered  borele"  on  the  preceding  day.  This  spoor  led  us  in  a  south- 
easterly course,  first  through  verdant  forest,  and  then  over  an  extremely 
rugged  ridge  that  stretched  into  the  forest  from  the  mountain  chain. 
Beyond  this  ridge  was  an  extensive  and  almost  impracticable  jungle  of 
wait-a-bit  thorns,  and  in  this  jungle  we  now  heard  the  rumbling  sound 
of  elephants.  As  we  advanced  I  perceived  from  the  nature  of  the 
ground  that  success  was  very  doubtful,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  dogs, 
winding  the  elephants,  ran  in  upon  them  and  gave  tongue  ;  a  crashing 
and  trumpeting  ensued,  and  all  the  natives  shouted  out  "Machoa" 
(signifying  white  man).  With  the  utmost  difficulty  I  pressed  through 
the  jungle,  and  obtained  a  view  of  one  of  the  elephants,  around  which 
my  dogs  were  barking  angrily  ;  but  perceiving  that  it  was  a  small  cow, 
and  knowing  well  that  if  I  shot  her  the  natives  would  not  take  up  the 
spoor  again  for  at  least  a  couple  of  days,  I  reserved  my  fire ;  and  the 
dogs  being  jaded  by  the  sun,  and  returning  to  my  call,  we  left  the 
elephants  to  their  own  devices. 

A  few  minutes  afterwards  we  discovered  the  fresh  spoor  of  two 
enormous  bull  elephants,  which  had  pastured  towards  the  hills.  Having 
followed  it  a  short  distance,  we  came  upon  some  dung,  the  outside  of 
which  the  sun  had  not  yet  dried ;  from  which  we  might  presume  that 
the  elephants  were  at  that  moment  in  the  same  valley  with  ourselves. 
Two  young  men  were  despatched  in  haste  to  ascend  the  beetling  crags 
of  the  adjacent  mountain,  from  which  they  could  obtain  a  bird's-eye 
view  of  the  length  and  breadth  of  that  and  the  surrounding  valleys. 
The  main  body  of  the  natives  squatted  on  the  ground,  and  I  sat  down  to 
eat  some  bread  and  elephant,  and  take  a  drink  of  water.  I  had  scarcely 
time  to  finish  my  luncheon  when  the  two  young  men  returned  breath- 
less with  excitement  to  report  that  they  had  discovered  the  two  bull 
elephants  browsing  in  a  grove  of  thorny  trees  on  the  mountain  side 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  us.  I  approached  under  cover  of  a  bushy 
tree,  on  clearing  which  I  beheld  two  of  the  finest  elephants  in  Africa 
standing  broadside  on  within  fifty  yards.  The  finer  of  these  had  one 
of  his  tusks  broken  short  off  by  the  lip  ;  I  therefore  chose  his  comrade 
which  carrried  a  pair  of  very  long  and  perfect  tusks.  I  had  hard  work 
with  this  elephant,  and  the  sun  was  under  before  I  laid  him  low. 

On  the  4th  I  rode  for  my  boWer  on  the  Mahalapia,  in  the  hope  of 
finding  my  waggons  waiting  for  me ;  but  I  had  misgivings  about  my 
men,  who  ought  to  have  appeared  on  the  evening  of  the  2nd.  On 
reaching  my  bower  where  the  former  elephant  had  died,  I  found  the 
fires  still  smoking,  but  every  man  had  disappeared  :  Carollus,  whom  I 
had  ordered  to  await  me,  had  vanished  with  the  rest.  I  now  fancied 
that  I  must  have  missed  the  natives  who  had  passed  me  on  their  way 
to  the  elephant  of  the  previous  day,  and  that  Carollus  had  joined  the 
waggons  wherever  they  might  be. 

I  was^right  in  my  conjecture,  and  presently,  on  firing  a  signal  shot,  I 
received  an  answer  from  the  waggons,  which  were  drawn  up  in  the 
romantic  gorge  of  Sabie\  as  near  as  might  be  to  the  water.  Drunken- 
ness and  disorder  had  prevailed  during  my  absence,  as  I  had  Jeared ;  my 


EQUIPMENT    FOR    THE    FOKEST.  183 

chests  were  broken  open,  the  fine  captents  of  both  my  waggons  were 
most  seriously  damaged,  oxen  had  been  lost,  and  horses  ridden  off  their 
legs  in  search  of  them.  It  appeared  that  Mr.  Kleinboy  had  been  the 
chief  delinquent.  Under  the  influence  of  the  liquor,  and  anxious  to 
distinguish  himself,  he  had  resolved  to  try  his  hand  in  hunting  the 
giraffe.  Accordingly  he  saddled  Colesberg,  my  favourite  steed,  and 
borrowed  one  of  my  80  guinea  rifles,  armed  with  which  he  had  sped 
through  the  forest  he  knew  not  whither ;  and  eventually  becoming 
bewildered,  he  had  lost  himself  entirely.  In  this  condition  he  was 
fortunately  discovered  by  a  party  of  Bakalahari,  who  conducted  him 
safely  to  my  camp. 

I  had  at  length  got  into  the  way  of  making  myself  tolerably  comfort- 
able in  the  field,  and  from  this  date  I  seldom  went  in  quest  of  elephants 
without  the  following  impedimenta,  viz.,  a  large  blanket,  which  I  folded 
and  secured  before  my  saddle,  as  a  dragoon  does  his  cloak ;  and  two 
leather  sacks,  containing  a  flannel  shirt,  warm  trousers,  and  a  woollen 
nightcap,  spare  ammunition,  washing-rod,  coffee,  bread,  sugar,  pepper 
and  salt,  dried  meat,  a  wooden  bowl,  and  a  teaspoon.  These  sacks  were 
carried  on  the  shoulders  of  the  natives,  for  which  service  I  remuner- 
ated them  with  beads.  They  also  carried  my  coffee-kettle,  two  calabashes 
of  water,  two  American  axes,  and  two  sickles,  which  I  used  every  evening 
to  cut  grass  for  my  bed,  and  likewise  for  my  horses  to  eat  throughout 
the  night.  My  after-rider  carried  extra  ammunition  and  a  spare  rifle  ; 
and  my  own  personal  appointments  consisted  of  a  wide-awake  hat, 
secured  under  my  chin  by  "  rheimpys,"  or  strips  of  dressed  skin,  a  coarse 
linenby  shirt,  sometimes  a  kilt,  and  sometimes  a  pair  of  buckskin  knee- 
breeches,  and  a  pair  of  "  veldtschoens,"  or  home-made  shoes.  I  entirely 
discarded  coat,  waistcoat,  and  neckcloth,  and  I  always  hunted  with  my 
arms  bare.  My  heels  were  armed  with  a  pair  of  powerful  persuaders, 
and  from  my  left  wrist  depended  by  a  double  rheimpy  an  equally 
persuasive  sea-cow  jambok. 

Around  my  waist  I  wore  two  leathern  belts  or  girdles.  The  smaller 
of  these  discharged  the  duty  of  suspenders,  and  from  it  on  my  left  side 
depended  a  plaited  rheimpy,  eight  inches  in  length,  forming  a  loop  in 
which  dangled  my  powerful  loading  rod,  formed  of  a  solid  piece  of  horn 
of  the  rhinoceros.  The  larger  girdle  was  my  shooting-belt :  this  was  a 
broad  leather  belt,  on  which  were  fastened  four  separate  compartments 
made  of  otter-skin,  with  flaps  to  button  over  of  the  same  material.  The 
first  of  these  held  my  percussion-caps,  the  second  a  large  powder-flask, 
the  third  and  fourth,  which  had  divisions  in  them,  contained  balls  and 
patches,  two  sharp  clasp-knives,  a  compass,  flint  and  steel.  In  this 
belt  -I  also  carried  a  loading  mallet,  formed  from  the  horn  of  the 
rhinoceros;  this  and  the  powder-flask  were  each  secured  to  the  belt  by  long 
rheimpys,  to  prevent  my  losing  them.  Last,  but  not  least,  in  my  right 
hand  I  usually  carried  my  double-barrelled  two-grooved  rifle,  which  was 
my  favourite  weapon.  This,  however,  I  subsequently  made  up  my 
mind,  is  not  the  proper  tool  for  a  mounted  man,  especially  when  quick 
loading  is  necessary. 

I  remember  having  a  discussion  with  the  commanding  officer  of  a 


184  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

regiment  of  heavy  dragoons  on  this  subject,  and  he  and  I  agreed  that 
nothing  can  surpass  a  double-barrelled  smooth  bore  for  practical  utility. 
When  a  two-grooved  rifle  has  been  once  or  twice  discharged,  the  bullet 
requires  considerable  power  to  drive  it  home ;  and  to  a  mounted  man 
this  is  extremely  inconvenient.  I  consider  that  no  regiment  in  the  ser- 
vice was  more  effectually  armed  than  my  own  old  corps,  the  Cape  Mounted 
Rifles,  who  were  furnished  with  short  double-barrelled  smooth-bored 
pieces,  carrying  a  ball  of  twelve  to  the  pound,  and  having  stout  percus- 
sion-locks. Give  me  a  weapon  of  this  description  to  war  against  the 
larger  game  of  Africa.  To  accelerate  loading,  the  hunter  ought  to  have 
his  balls  stitched  up  in  their  patches,  and  well  greased  before  taking 
the  field.  This  was  my  invariable  custom  :  I  found  it  a  great  con- 
venience, and  after  a  little  practice  I  could  load  and  fire  in  the  saddle, 
although  riding  in  rough  ground  at  a  swingeing  gallop. 

On  the  evening  of  the  12th  a  herald  from  Sicomy  stood  up  in  the 
centre  of  my  camp,  and  loudly  proclaimed  that  it  was  the  king's  orders 
that  on  the  following  day  every  man  should  return  to  head-quarters  ; 
and  accordingly  next  day  all  hands  shouldered  their  impedients  and  for- 
sook me.  I  could  not  rightly  divine  the  cause  of  this  mysterious  com- 
mand ;  but  I  attributed  it  to  some  plotting  scheme  of  Isaac's,  who  I 
understand  was  living  with  Sicomy.  I  saw  very  plainly  that  Mutchuisho 
was  against  the  move.  In  consideration  of  his  services,  I  begged  his 
acceptance  of  several  considerable  presents,  and  I  also  sent  some 
presents  to  the  king.  On  parting,  Mutchuisho  promised  shortly  to 
return,  and  he  informed  me  that  he  had  instructed  a  party  of  Bakala- 
hari  to  assist  me  in  my  hunting  during  his  absence. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


We  march  from  Sabi6 — Track  along  a  River-bed — The  dry  Grass  on  Fire  for  miles — 
Glorious  Elephant-shooting — Cowardice  of  my  After-rider — Strange  circum- 
stance at  the  Death  of  a  Bull  Elephant — A  Sable  Antelope — Tete-a-tete  with  a 
disabled  Elephant — The  Klipspringer  Antelope — A  pack  of  Wild  Dogs  cap- 
ture and  kill  a  Koodoo — The  coming  of  Summer — Vast  numbers  of  Birds  visit- 
ing the  Fountains — My  trusty  two-grooved  Rifle  bursts — My  Snuffers,  Spoons, 
and  Candlesticks  melted  for  Bullets — Elephants  taking  a  Douche  Bath — Two 
of  them  slain — Yet  more  Elephants — My  Horse  Colesberg  dies  of  the  African 
Distemper — Virulence  of  the  Scourge. 

I  remained  at  Sabi6,  hunting  elephant  and  rhinoceros  with  various 
success,  till  the  morning  of  the  22nd  of  August,  when  I  inspanned,  and 
marched  for  Mangmaluky,  which  we  reached  at  sundown,  when  I  drew 
up  my  waggons  in  an  open  grassy  glade  on  a  rather  elevated  position, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  bold  outline  of  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains. On  the  march  I  shot  a  white  rhinoceros  in  the  act  of  charging 
down  a  rocky  face,  with  all  the  dogs  in  full  pursuit  of  him.  The  ball 
disabled  him  in  the  shoulder,  when,  pitching  upon  his  head,  he  de- 
scribed the  most  tremendous  somersault,  coming  down  among  the  stones 
and  bushes  with  the  overwhelming  violence  of  an  avalanche. 


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FIGHT    WITH    AN    ELEPHANT.  185 

On  the  27th  I  cast  loose  my  horses  at  earliest  dawn  of  day,  and  then 
lay  half  asleep  for  two  hours,  when  I  arose  to  consume  coffee  and  rhin- 
oceros. Having  breakfasted,  I  started  with  a  party  of  the  natives  to 
search  for  elephants  in  a  southerly  direction.  We  held  along  the 
gravelly  bed  of  a  periodical  river,  in  which  were  abundance  of  holes  ex- 
cavated by  the  elephants  in  quest  of  water.  Here  the  spoor  of  rhin- 
oceros was  extremely  plentiful,  and  in  every  hole  where  they  had  drunk 
the  print  of  the  horn  was  visible.  We  soon  found  the  spoor  of  an  old 
bull  elephant,  which  led  us  into  a  dense  forest,  where  the  ground  was 
particularly  unfavourable  for  spooring ;  we,  however,  threaded  it  out 
for  a  considerable  distance,  when  it  joined  the  spoor  of  other  bulls. 
The  natives  now  requested  me  to  halt,  while  men  went  off  in  different 
directions  to  reconnoitre. 

In  the  mean  time  a  tremendous  conflagration  was  roaring  and  crack- 
ling close  to  windward  of  us.  It  was  caused  by  the  Bakalahari  burning 
the  old  dry  grass  to  enable  the  young  to  spring  up  with  greater  facility, 
whereby  they  retained  the  game  in  their  dominions.  The  fire  stretched 
away  for  many  miles  on  either  side  of  us,  darkening  the  forest  far  to 
leeward  with  a  dense  impenetrable  canopy  of  smoke.  Here  we  remained 
for  about  half  an  hour,  when  one  of  the  men  returned,  reporting  that  he 
had  discovered  elephants.  This  I  could  scarcely  credit,  for  I  fancied 
that  the  extensive  fire  which  raged  so  fearfully  must  have  driven,  not 
only  elephants,  but  every  living  creature  out  of  the  district.  The 
native,  however,  pointed  to  his  eye,  repeating  the  word  "  Klow,"  and 
signed  to  me  to  follow  him.  My  guide  led  me  about  a  mile  through 
dense  forest,  when  we  reached  a  little  well- wooded  hill,  to  whose  sum- 
mit we  ascended,  whence  a  view  might  have  been  obtained  of  the 
surrounding  country,  had  not  volumes  of  smoke  obscured  the  scenery 
far  and  wide,  as  though  issuing  from  the  funnels  of  a  thousand  steam- 
boats. Here,  to  my  astonishment,  my  guide  halted,  and  pointed  to  the 
thicket  close  beneath  me,  when  I  instantly  perceived  the  colossal  backs 
of  a  herd  of  bull  elephants.  There  they  stood  quietly  browsing  on  the 
lee  side  of  the  hill,  while  the  fire  in  its  might  was  raging  to  windward 
within  two  hundred  yards  of  them. 

I  directed  Johannus  to  choose  an  elephant,  and  promised  to  reward 
him  should  he  prove  successful.  Galloping  furiously  down  the  hill,  I 
started  the  elephants  with  an  unearthly  yell,  and  instantly  selected  the 
finest  in  the  herd.  Placing  myself  alongside,  I  fired  both  barrels  behind 
his  shoulder,  when  he  instantly  turned  upon  me,  and  in  his  impetuous 
career  charged  head  foremost  against  a  large  bushy  tree  which  he  sent 
flying  before  him  high  in  the  air  with  tremendous  force,  coming  down 
at  the  same  moment  violently  on  his  knees.  He  then  met  the  raging 
fire,  when,  altering  his  course,  he  wheeled  to  the  right-about.  As  I 
galloped  after  him  I  perceived  another  noble  elephant  meeting  us  in  an 
opposite  direction,  and  presently  the  gallant  Johannus  hove  in  sight, 
following  his  quarry  at  a  respectful  distance.  Both  elephants  held  on 
together,  so  I  shouted  to  Johannus,  "  I  will  give  your  elephant  a  shot 
in  the  shoulder,  and  you  must  try  to  finish  him."  Spurring  my  horse,  I 
rode  close  alongside,  and  gave  the  fresh  elephant  two  balls  immediately 


186    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


behind  the  shoulder,  when  he  parted  from  mine,  Johannus  following ; 
but  before  many  minutes  had  elapsed  that  mighty  Nimrod  reappeared, 
having  fired  one  shot  and  lost  his  prey. 

In  the  mean  time  I  was  loading  and  firing  as  fast  as  could  be,  some- 
times at  the  head,  and  sometimes  behind  the  shoulder,  until  my 
elephant's  fore-quarters  were  a  mass  of  gore,  notwithstanding  which  he 
continued  to  hold  stoutly  on,  leaving  the  grass  and  branches  of  the 
forest  scarlet  in  his  wake. 

On  one  occasion  he  endeavoured  to  escape  by  charging  desperately 
amid  the  thickest  of  the  flames ;  but  this  did  not  avail,  and  I  was  soon 
once  more  alongside.  I  blazed  away  at  this  elephant,  until  I  began  to 
think  that  he  was  proof  against  my  weapons.  Having  fired  thirty-five 
rounds  with  my  two-grooved  rifle,  I  opened  fire  upon  him  with  the 
Dutch  six-pounder ;  and  when  forty  bullets  had  perforated  his  hide,  he 
began  for  the  first  time  to  evince  signs  of  a  dilapidated  constitution. 
He  took  up  a  position  in  a  grove  ;  and  as  the  dogs  kept  barking  round 
him,  he  backed  stern  foremost  among  the  trees,  which  yielded  before 
his  gigantic  strength.  Poor  old  fellow  !  he  had  long  braved  my  deadly 
shafts,  but  I  plainly  saw  that  it  was  now  all  over  with  him;  so  I  resolved 
to  expend  no  further  ammunition,  but  hold  him  in  view  until  he  died. 
Throughout  the  chase  this  elephant  repeatedly  cooled  his  person  with 
large  quantities  of  water,  which  he  ejected  from  his  trunk  over  his  back 
and  sides ;  and  just  as  the  pangs  of  death  came  over  him,  he  stood 
trembling  violently  beside  a  thorny  tree,  and  kept  pouring  water  into 
his  bloody  mouth  until  he  died,  when  he  pitched  heavily  forward,  with 
the  whole  weight  of  his  fore-quarters  resting  on  the  points  of  his  tusks. 

A  most  singular  occurrence  now  took  place.  He  lay  in  this  posture 
for  several  seconds,  but  the  amazing  pressure  of  the  carcase  was  more 
than  the  head  was  able  to  support.  He  had  fallen  with  his  head  so 
short  under  him  that  the  tusks  received  little  assistance  from  his  legs. 
Something  must  give  way.  The  strain  on  the  mighty  tusks  was  fair ; 
they  did  not,  therefore,  yield ;  but  the  portion  of  his  head  in  which  the 
tusk  was  imbedded,  extending  a  long  way  above  the  eye,  yielded  and 
burst  with  a  muffied  crash.  The  tusk  was  thus  free,  and  turned  right 
round  in  his  head,  so  that  a  man  could  draw  it  out,  and  the  carcase  fell 
over  and  rested  on  its  side.  This  was  a  very  first-rate  elephant,  and 
the  tusks  he  carried  were  long  and  perfect. 

On  the  28th  I  saddled  up,  and  rode  for  the  waggons,  steering  my 
course  by  the  lofty  pyramidal  mountain,  in  whose  vicinity  they  were 
drawn  up.  The  remainder  of  the  day  was  spent  in  constructing  a  loading- 
rod  of  rhinoceros-horn,  and  writing  up  the  log.  At  an  early  hour  on 
the  29th  I  started  a  party  of  the  natives,  bearing  my  impedimenta,  to 
await  me  at  the  carcase  of  the  last  elephant ;  and  in  the  forenoon  I  held 
thither,  accompanied  by  Johannus.  Cantering  along  through  the  forest, 
I  came  suddenly  in  full  view  of  one  of  the  loveliest  animals  which 
graces  this  fair  creation.  This  was  an  old  buck  of  the  sable  antelope, 
the  rarest  and  most  beautiful  animal  in  Africa.  It  is  large  and  powerful, 
partaking  considerably  of  the  nature  of  the  ibex.  Its  back  and  sides  are 
of  glossy  black,  beautifully  contrasting  with  the  belly,  which  is  white  as 


ANOTHER    ELEPHANT    HUNT.  187 

driven  snow.  The  horns  are  upwards  of  three  feet  in  length,  and  bend 
strongly  back  with  a  bold  sweep,  reaching  nearly  to  the  haunches. 

This  animal  was  first  discovered  by  Captain  Harris,  of  the  Bombay 
Engineers,  in  1837.  As  I  subsequently  devoted  a  great  deal  of  time  in 
the  pursuit  of  this  antelope,  I  shall  not  here  make  any  remarks  con- 
cerning him.  The  one  which  was  now  before  me  was  the  first  I  had 
seen,  and  I  shall  never  forget  the  sensations  I  experienced  on  beholding 
a  sight  so  thrilling  to  the  sportsman's  eye.  He  stood  with  a  small  troop 
of  pallahs  right  in  our  path,  and  had  unfortunately  detected  us  before 
we  saw  him.  Shouting  to  my  pack,  I  galloped  after  him ;  but  the  day 
was  close  and  warm,  and  the  dogs  had  lost  their  spirit  with  the  sun. 
My  horse  being  an  indifferent  one,  I  soon  lost  ground,  and  the  beautiful 
sable  antelope,  gaining  a  rocky  ridge,  was  very  soon  beyond  my  reach, 
and  vanished  for  ever  from  my  view.  I  then  rode  on  for  the  carcase  of 
the  elephant,  where  I  took  up  my  quarters  for  the  night,  but  I  sought 
in  vain  to  close  my  eyelids  :  the  image  of  the  sable  antelope  was  still 
before  me,  and  I  slept  little  throughout  the  night. 

On  the  31st  I  held  south-east  in  quest  of  elephants,  with  a  large  party 
of  the  natives.  Our  course  lay  through  an  open  part  of  the  forest, 
where  I  beheld  a  troop  of  springboks  and  two  ostriches,  the  first  I  had 
seen  for  a  long  time.  We  held  for  Towannie,  a  strong  fountain  in  the 
gravelly  bed  of  a  periodical  river :  here  two  herds  of  cow  elephants  had 
drunk  on  the  preceding  evening,  but  I  declined  to  follow  these ;  and 
presently,  at  a  muddy  fountain  a  little  in  advance,  we  took  up  the  spoor 
of  an  enormous  bull,  which  had  wallowed  in  the  mud  and  then  plastered 
the  sides  of  several  of  the  adjacent  veteran  looking  trees.  We  followed 
the  spoor  through  level  forest  in  an  easterly  direction,  when  the  leading 
party  overran  the  spoor,  and  casts  were  made  for  its  recovery.  Pre- 
sently I  detected  an  excited  native  beckoning  violently  a  little  to  my 
left,  and,  cantering  up  to  him,  he  said  that  he  had  seen  the  elephant. 
He  led  me  through  the  forest  a  few  hundred  yards,  when,  clearing  a 
wait-a-bit,  I  came  full  in  view  of  the  tallest  and  largest  bull  elephant  I 
had  ever  seen.  He  stood  broadside  to  me,  at  upwards  of  one  hundred 
yards,  and  his  attention  at  the  moment  was  occupied  with  the  dogs, 
which,  having  winded  him,  were  rushing  past  in  search  of  his  exact 
position,  while  the  old  fellow  seemed  to  gaze  at  their  unwonted  appear- 
ance with  surprise. 

Halting  my  horse,  I  fired  at  his  shoulder,  and  secured  him  with  a 
single  shot.  The  ball  caught  him  high  upon  the  shoulder-blade, 
rendering  him  instantly  dead  lame ;  and  before  the  echo  of  the  bullet 
could  reach  my  ear,  I  plainly  saw  that  the  elephant  was  mine.  The 
dogs  now  came  up  and  barked  around  him,  but,  finding  himself 
incapacitated,  the  old  fellow  seemed  determined  to  take  it  easy,  and, 
limping  slowly  to  a  neighbouring  tree,  he  remained  stationary,  eyeing 
his  pursuers  with  a  resigned  and  philosophic  air. 

I  resolved  to  devote  a  short  time  to  the  contemplation  of  this  noble 
elephant  before  I  should  lay  him  low ;  accordingly,  having  off-saddled 
the  horses  beneath  a  shady  tree  which  was  to  be  my  quarters  for  the 
night  and  ensuing  day,  I  quickly  kindled  a  fire  and  put  on  the  kettle, 


188    HUNTING  AND  SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 


and  in  a  very  few  minutes  my  coffee  was  prepared.  There  I  sat  in  my 
forest  home,  coolly  sipping  my  coffee,  with  one  of  the  finest  elephants 
in  Africa  awaiting  my  pleasure  beside  a  neighbouring  tree. 

It  was,  indeed,  a  striking  scene ;  and  as  I  gazed  upon  the  stupendous 
veteran  of  the  forest,  I  thought  of  the  red  deer  which  I  loved  to  follow 
in  my  native  land,  and  felt  that,  though  the  Fates  had  driven  me  to 
follow  a  more  daring  and  arduous  avocation  in  a  distant  land,  it  was 
a  good  exchange  which  I  had  made,  for  I  was  now  a  chief  over  bound- 
less forests,  which  yielded  unspeakably  more  noble  and  exciting  sport. 

Having  admired  the  elephant  for  a  considerable  time,  I  resolved  to 
make  experiments  for  vulnerable  points,  and,  approaching  very  near,  I 
fired  several  bullets  at  different  parts  of  his  enormous  skull.  These  did 
not  seem  to  affect  him  in  the  slightest ;  he  only  acknowledged  the  shots 
by  a  "  salaam-like  "  movement  of  his  trunk,  with  the  point  of  which  he 
gently  touched  the  wound  with  a  striking  and  peculiar  action.  Sur- 
prised and  shocked  to  find  that  I  was  only  tormenting  and  prolonging 
the  sufferings  of  the  noble  beast,  which  bore  his  trials  with  such  digni- 
fied composure,  I  resolved  to  finish  the  proceeding  with  all  possible  des- 
patch ;  accordingly  I  opened  fire  upon  him  from  the  left  side,  aiming 
behind  the  shoulder ;  but  even  there  it  was  long  before  my  bullets 
seemed  to  take  effect.  I  first  fired  six  shots  with  the  two-grooved,  which 
must  have  eventually  proved  mortal,  but  as  yet  he  evinced  no  visible 
distress;  after  which  I  fired  three  shots  at  the  same  part  with  the  Dutch 
six-pounder.  Large  tears  now  trickled  from  his  eyes,  which  he  slowly 
shut  and  opened  ;  his  colossal  frame  quivered  convulsively,  and,  falling 
on  his  side,  he  expired.  The  tusks  of  this  elephant  were  beautifully 
arched,  and  were  the  heaviest  I  had  yet  met  with,  averaging  90  lbs. 
weight  apiece. 

In  case  any  fair  reader  may  misinterpret  my  motive  for  killing  this 
elephant  in  the  manner  which  I  describe,  I  will  remark  that  my  object 
was  not  to  uselessly  torture  the  animal,  but  to  put  an  end  to  its  life  and 
pain  in  the  quickest  manner  possible.  I  had  often  lamented  having  to 
inflict  so  many  wounds  on  the  noble  animals  before  they  fell. 

To  any  sportsman,  or  person  understanding  such  matters,  this  ex- 
planation is  not  required. 

On  the  1st  of  September — so  full  of  interest  to  the  British  Nimrod — 
we  saddled  our  steeds  and  steered  our  course  for  Mangmaluky.  Can- 
tering along  the  base  of  a  mountain  range,  I  started  two  klipspringers, 
which  went  bounding  up  the  mountain  side  with  the  elasticity  of  an 
India-rubber  ball,  selecting  for  their  path  the  most  prominent  points  of 
the  large  fragments  of  rock  of  which  the  mountain-side  was  chiefly  com- 
posed. I  shot  one  of  these,  being  the  first  of  the  species  I  had  killed, 
though  in  subsequent  years,  while  hunting  the  sable  antelope,  I  secured 
a  number  of  fine  specimens.  This  darling  little  antelope  frequents  pre- 
cipitous rocky  hills  and  mountains,  and  bounds  along  over  the  broken 
masses  of  rock  with  the  most  extraordinary  ease  and  agility :  it  may 
often  be  seen  perched,  like  a  chamois,  on  the  sharp  pinnacle  of  some 
rock  or  stone,  with  its  four  feet  drawn  up  close  together.  Its  hoofs  are 
different  from  those  of  other  antelopes,  being  suited  solely  for  rocky 


CONFLICT    WITH    AN    ELEPHANT.  189 

ground,  and  are  so  formed  that  the  weight  of  the  animal  rests  upon 
their  tips.  On  looking  down  a  precipice  I  have  often  seen  two  or 
three  of  this  interesting  antelope  lying  together  on  a  large  flat  mass  of 
rock,  and  sheltered  from  the  power  of  the  noonday  sun  by  the  friendly 
shade  of  some  sandal-wood  or  other  mountain  tree.  They  are  about 
half  the  size  of  the  Scottish  roebuck,  whose  winter  coat  the  texture 
of  their  hair  very  much  resembles,  but  it  is  stiffer  and  of  a  yellower 
colour. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  2nd,  as  I  was  sitting  in  my  waggon  writing 
up  my  journal,  a  koodoo  charged  past  me,  closely  followed  by  a  pack  of 
hungry  wild  dogs,  which  maintained  their  position  although  all  my 
kennel  joined  them  in  the  chase,  and,  holding  on,  the  wild  dogs  killed 
the  koodoo  just  as  it  reached  the  water  where  my  oxen  drank.  On  the 
3rd  I  took  the  field  with  Johannus  and  a  small  party  of  Bakalahari,  and 
held  a  northerly  direction.  After  following  the  spoor  of  four  bull  ele- 
phants for  many  miles  in  a  semicircular  course,  we  came  up  with  them 
in  extremely  dangerous  and  unfavourable  ground,  when  I  was  fortunate 
enough  to  secure  the  finest,  after  a  severe  and  dangerous  conflict,  during 
which,  on  three  separate  occasions,  I  narowly  escaped  destruction.  The 
horse  I  rode  was  "  Colesberg,"  which,  as  usual,  capered  and  balked  me 
when  I  tried  to  fire  from  his  back  ;  when  I  dismounted,  he  seemed  to 
take  a  pleasure  in  jerking  my  arm  as  I  was  taking  aim ;  and  on  the  ele- 
phant charging  he  declined  permitting  me  to  regain  the  saddle. 

This  elephant  was  a  first-rate  bull,  with  large  and  perfect  tusks  :  he 
fell  within  three  hundred  yards  of  the  fountains,  where  I  found  a  black 
rhinoceros  which  I  wounded  on  the  31st  of  August.  The  sun  was 
powerful  throughout  the  day ;  the  months  of  winter  were  gone  by,  and 
summer  was  rapidly  advancing.  The  trees  were  budding  and  putting 
forth  leaves,  which  loaded  the  passing  breeze  with  a  sweet  and  balmy 
fragrance.  In  low-lying  districts  the  young  grass  had  already  com- 
menced to  shoot  forth  its  tender  blades,  and  all  nature  seemed  to 
pant  for  the  grateful  rains  to  robe  herself  in  her  mantle  of  summer 
verdure. 

In  the  evening  I  laved  in  the  fountain  my  sunburnt  eyes,  which  were 
sore  and  irritated  from  the  constant  strain  necessarily  concomitant  on 
spooring  ;  after  which  I  sat  for  a  long  time  silently  contemplating  the 
tranquil  scene.  As  the  sun  went  down,  the  number  of  the  feathered 
tribe  that  visited  the  fountains  was  truly  surprising  :  turtle-doves,  and 
extremely  small  long-tailed  pigeons,  were  most  abundant.  These  kept 
collecting  from  every  side,  uttering  their  gentle  notes,  till  the  trees  and 
bushes  around  the  glade  were  thickly  covered  with  them.  I  also  ob- 
served four  distinct  varieties  of  partridge ;  and  guinea-fowls  attended  in 
flocks  of  from  twenty  to  sixty.  On  the  4th,  having  few  followers,  I  was 
occupied  from  early  dawn  until  the  sun  was  under  in  cleaning  the  skull 
and  hewing  out  the  tusks  of  my  bull  elephant ;  and  on  the  following 
day  I  returned  to  camp  with  a  party  of  Bakalahari  bearing  them  upon 
their  shoulders.  On  the  6th  I  took  the  field  with  about  forty  natives 
and  held  through  the  forest  in  a  south-easterly  direction.  Falling  in 
with  two  white  rhinoceroses,  one  of  which  carried  an  unusually  long 

12 


190    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


horn,  I  was  induced  to  give  her  chase ;  and  by  hard  riding  I  soon  over- 
took and  finished  her  with  four  shots  behind  the  shoulder. 

In  the  afternoon  I  was  engaged  for  three  or  four  hours  combating 
with  a  vicious  elephant,  which  I  finished  with  thirty-five  bullets  in  the 
shoulder,  in  an  impracticable  jungle  of  wait-a-bit  thorns.  The  conflict 
was  greatly  prolonged  by  the  "Immense  Brute,"  which  capered  continu- 
ally, and  constantly  destroyed  the  correctness  of  my  aim.  While  I  was 
fighting  with  this  elephant,  my  dogs  were  combating  with  a  younger 
bull,  which  they  hunted  backwards  and  forwards  in  the  same  thicket 
with  myself.  This  elephant  took  up  a  position  beside  the  one  which 
had  fallen,  and  the  dogs  continued  barking  around  him.  My  rifle  being 
now  extremely  dirty,  I  experienced  considerable  difficulty  in  ramming 
home  the  balls,  notwithstanding  the  power  of  my  rhinoceros-horn  load- 
ing-rod. This  being  accomplished,  I  ran  cautiously  within  twenty  yards 
of  this  second  elephant,  and,  resting  my  rifle  on  a  branch,  I  aimed  for 
his  heart  and  pressed  the  trigger. 

Alas  !  it  was  for  the  last  time.  The  barrel  burst  with  a  terrific  ex- 
plosion, sending  the  locks  and  half  the  stock  flying  right  and  left,  and 
very  nearly  sending  me  to  "the  land  of  the  leal."  I,  however,  received 
no  futher  damage  than  a  slight  burn  on  my  left  arm,  and  the  loss  for 
many  days  of  the  use  of  my  left  ear,  a  fragment  of  the  barrel  having 
whizzed  close  past  it.  At  first  I  was  so  stunned  that  I  knew  not  if  I 
were  wounded  or  not,  and  on  recovering  from  the  shock  my  person  un- 
derwent a  strict  scrutiny.  Before  I  discovered  these  elephants  I  was 
faint  from  thirst,  and  quite  done  up  with  the  power  of  the  sun,  owing 
to  which  I  considered  that  I  did  not  attack  the  elephant  so  bravely  as  I 
might  otherwise  have  done. 

The  loss  of  my  trusty  two-grooved  rifle,  in  such  a  remote  corner  of 
the  world,  was  irreparable,  and  cut  me  to  the  heart.  It  was  my  main- 
stay ;  and  as  I  thought  of  the  many  services  it  had  performed  for  me  in 
the  hour  of  need,  I  mourned  over  it  as  David  mourned  for  Absalom. 
On  the  evening  of  the  7th  I  returned  to  Mangmaluky  under  a  burning 
sun,  which  continued  oppressive  throughout  the  day.  Having  lost  my 
two-grooved  rifle,  I  resolved  to  try  what  could  be  done  with  the  double- 
barrelled  Moore  and  Purdey  rifles,  carrying  sixteen  to  the  pound,  and  I 
accordingly  set  about  casting  hardened  bullets  to  suit  them.  For  this 
purpose  I  had  brought  in  with  me  a  quantity  of  solder,  but  I  now  had 
the  mortification  to  discover  that  all  that  I  had  possessed  of  this  impor- 
tant article  had  mysteriously  vanished  by  some  underhand  transaction 
betwixt  my  followers  and  Sicomy.  I  was  thus  reduced  to  the  extremity 
of  melting  the  contents  of  my  old  military  canteen  to  harden  the 
bullets ;  and  upon  overhauling  it,  I  ascertained  that  the  tray  of  the 
snuffers,  the  spoons,  candlesticks,  teapots,  and  two  drinking-cups,  were 
admirably  suited  for  this  purpose,  and  I  accordingly  sentenced  them  to 
undergo  the  fiery  ordeal  of  the  ladle. 

In  the  evening  I  had  much  pleasure  to  behold  my  old  friend 
Mutchuisho  walk  into  my  camp,  followed  by  a  numerous  party  of  the 
natives.  He  seemed  glad  to  see  me,  and  we  at  once  arranged  to  make 
an  expedition  to  the  eastward  on  the  following  day.     Accordingly,  on 


ELEPHANT    SPOOKING.  191 

the  morning  of  the  9th  I  took  the  field  with  Johannus  and  Mutchuisho 
and  about  eighty  men,  and  proceeded  in  a  south-easterly  direction.  We 
continued  our  course  till  the  sun  went  down  without  finding  fresh  spoor, 
when  we  halted  for  the  night  to  leeward  of  a  fountain,  where  we  hoped 
that  elephants  would  come  to  drink.  The  heat  throughout  the  day  had 
been  most  oppressive,  the  dense  level  forest  rendering  it  still  more  in- 
supportable. 

On  the  morrow  we  cast  loose  the  horses  to  graze  long  before  the  dawn 
of  day.  No  elephants  had  visited  the  fountain,  so  after  an  early  break- 
fast we  saddled  up,  and  again  held  on  in  an  easterly  direction  through 
boundless  forests,  till  I  found  myself  in  a  country  which  I  had  not 
hitherto  visited.  Passing  along  beneath  a  rocky  hillock  we  started  a 
detachment  of  hideous  hyaenas,  which  sought  shelter  from  the  sun  be- 
neath the  shadow  of  the  rocks.  We  passed  several  large  herds  of  lovely 
camelopards,  and  I  also  obtained  two  very  deadly  chances  of  rhinoceros, 
both  fine  old  bulls  ;  but  knowing  well  from  past  experience  that  my 
policy  was  to  keep  my  followers  hungry,  I  refrained  from  firing  a  single 
shot. 

In  the  afternoon  we  reached  a  small  vley,  where  five  first-rate  bull 
elephants  had  drunk  on  the  preceding  evening.  Here  my  followers  all 
sat  down  and  rested  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  a  wild  duck  swimming 
fearlessly  beside  us.  We  then  took  up  the  spoor,  but,  as  it  was  late  in 
the  day,  I  had  not  the  slightest  expectation  of  success,  and  was  so  done 
up  with  the  power  of  the  sun  that  I  felt  it  irksome  to  sit  in  the  saddle. 
The  spoor  led  east,  right  away  from  camp,  but  the  elephants  seemed  to 
have  proceeded  slowly,  having  extended  widely  from  one  another,  and 
rent  and  uprooted  an  amazing  number  of  goodly  trees.  Presently  the 
spoor  took  a  turn  to  our  left,  when  I  grieved  to  remark  that  we  were 
following  it  down  the  wind  ;  thus  we  eventually  started  the  elephants, 
which  were  feeding  in  the  forest  at  no  great  distance,  but,  owing  to  a 
check  among  the  trackers,  we  were  not  aware  of  this  until  the  elephants 
had  gained  a  considerable  start. 

On  finding  that  they  were  gone,  Johannus  and  I  went  off  on  the  spoor 
at  a  rapid  pace,  but  I  had  not  the  slightest  expectation  of  overtaking 
them  ;  for  it  was  so  late  that,  even  if  I  had  already  commenced  the 
attack,  the  chances  were  that  before  I  could  finish  one  the  night  would 
have  set  in.  It  is  much  easier  to  hold  the  spoor  of  a  herd  of  elephants 
that  have  been  alarmed  than  to  follow  those  which  have  been  undis- 
turbed, since  the  former  adopt  a  decided  course  and  follow  one  another 
in  a  direct  line.  Thus  we  were  enabled  to  hold  the  spoor  at  a  gallop 
without  a  check  until  our  horses  began  to  evince  distress  ;  and,  despair- 
ing of  success,  I  was  just  going  to  pull  up,  when  I  heard  Johannus  ex- 
claim, 

"  Sir,  sir,  dar  stand  ilia,"  and,  looking  before  me,  I  beheld  five  enor- 
mous old  bull  elephants  walking  slowly  along. 

They  seemed  heated  by  the  pace  at  which  they  had  retreated,  and 
were  now  refreshing  themselves  with  large  volumes  of  water,  which 
nature  enables  them  to  discharge  from  their  capacious  stomachs,  and 
shower  back  upon  their  bodies  with  their  extraordinary  trunks.   I  over- 


192  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


took  these  elephants  in  open  ground,  which  enabled  me  at  once  to  make 
a  fine  selection.  I  had  never  before  obtained  so  satisfactory  a  view  of  a 
herd  of  bulls  :  they  really  looked  wondrous  vast.  It  is  a  heart-stirring 
sight  to  behold  one  bull  elephant;  but  when  five  gigantic  old  fellows  are 
walking  slowly  along  before  you,  and  you  feel  that  you  can  ride  up  and 
vanquish  whichever  one  you  fancy,  it  is  so  overpoweringly  exciting  that 
it  almost  takes  a  man's  breath  away ;  but  it  was  now  too  late  in  the  day 
to  part  with  my  breath  for  a  single  moment. 

Johannus  whispered  to  me  to  wait  a  little,  to  allow  the  horses  to  re- 
cover their  wind ;  but  Wolf  dashing  in  upon  them,  I  was  obliged  to 
follow  to  obtain  an  accurate  selection  of  the  tusks.  Spurring  my  horse, 
in  another  moment  I  was  in  the  middle  of  them,  closely  followed  by 
Johannus ;  and  in  a  twinkling  the  finest  bull  had  received  the  contents 
of  the  Moore  and  Purdey  behind  the  shoulder.  I  was  now  joined  by 
Wolf,  who  rendered  me  important  service  by  considerably  engrossing 
the  attention  of  the  elephant,  running  barking  before  him  as  he  charged. 
I  was  in  a  precious  hurry,  as  the  sun  was  setting,  and  I  kept  loading 
and  firing  at  duelling  distance.  On  receiving  the  twenty-fourth  shot  he 
stood  trembling  violently  for  several  seconds,  and  then  fell  heavily  for- 
ward on  his  tusks,  after  which  he  rolled  over  and  rested  on  his  side.  I 
reckoned  this  to  be  a  fortunate  conclusion  after  the  hard  and  toilsome 
day  I  had  spent  under  the  power  of  a  scorching  sun.  Mutchuisho  and 
the  natives  soon  made  their  appearance,  all  in  wondrous  good  humour 
at  our  success. 

The  nearest  water  to  this  elephant  was  in  a  vley  situated  several 
miles  to  the  eastward;  and  when  the  natives  had  constructed  a 
number  of  water-bags  of  the  under  skin  of  the  elephant,  a  watering 
party  was  despatched  with  these  and  a  number  of  calabashes  which  they 
always  carried  along  with  them.  This  party  rejoined  us  at  the  hour  of 
midnight,  and  reported  that  while  they  were  filling  their  water-bags  at 
one  side  of  the  vley  a  troop  of  bull  elephants  were  drinking  at  the  other. 
Accordingly,  on  the  morrow  I  went  in  quest  of  these,  accompanied  by 
Mutchuisho  and  a  small  party,  and  on  the  second  day  I  came  up  with 
them  and  bagged  an  old  bull  whose  tusks  were  the  stoutest  I  had  ever 
seen. 

After  a  most  weary  and  toilsome  spoor  of  two  days  I  cast  loose  the 
steeds  at  earliest  dawn  of  the  3rd,  and  soon  after  we  heard  the  hoarse 
cry  of  an  elephant  within  half  a  mile  of  us.  I  permitted  my  horses  to 
graze  while  the  dew  was  on  the  grass,  after  which  I  sent  them  along 
with  the  dogs  to  water  with  a  party  of  Bakalahari  at  a  fountain  re- 
ported three  miles  distant,  and  in  the  mean  time  I  regaled  myself  with 
coffee  and  rhinoceros. 

It  is  extraordinary  how  soon  the  mind  accustoms  itself  to  everything, 
good  or  bad.  There  I  sat  taking  my  breakfast,  with  a  troop  of  princely 
elephants  feeding  within  a  few  minutes'  ride  of  me,  with  as  much 
indifference  as  if  I  were  going  woodcock-shooting.  I  certainly  did 
not  feel  half  so  anxious  about  the  matter  as  I  usually  did  when  taking 
my  breakfast  on  a  fine  May  morning,  with  a  southerly  wind,  before 
starting  to  fish  my  native  river.     This  indifference  was  probably  owing 


DEATH    OF    COLESBERG.  195 

to  the  reduced  state  of  my  system  from  improper  diet  and  constant 
toil. 

When  the  Bakalahari  returned  with  the  dogs  and  horses,  they  re- 
ported fresh  spoor  of  bull  elephants  by  the  fountain  ;  and  at  the  same 
moment  another  party,  whom  Mutchuisho  had  despatched  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  cry,  returned  to  say  that  it  was  a  herd  of  bulls  which  we  had 
heard  that  morning.  This  was  very  pleasing  intelligence,  for  I  had 
fancied  that  the  elephants  must  be  a  troop  of  cows,  whose  traces  we  had 
observed  on  the  preceding  evening.  Everything  being  ready  we  made 
for  the  elephants,  and,  as  we  approached  them,  an  old  bull  rhinoceros 
was  detected  standing  within  forty  yards,  which,  as  if  aware  that  I 
dared  not  fire  on  him,  kept  trotting  along  the  path  before  me.  We  dis- 
covered the  elephants  quietly  browsing  on  very  unfavourable  ground, 
the  greater  part  of  the  forest  consisting  of  the  ever- recurring  wait-a-bits. 
The  troop  was  composed  of  three  old  bulls,  two  of  which  carried  stumpy 
and  broken  tusks. 

On  the  evening  of  the  20th,  after  bowling  over  another  elephant  with 
a  splendid  pair  of  tusks,  I  returned  to  camp,  where,  to  my  utter  horror, 
I  found  my  favourite  Colesberg  dangerously  ill.  Guessing  that  it  was 
the  distemper,  I  had  him  up  instantly  and  bled  him  freely,  but  to  no 
purpose.  Finding  him  worse  on  the  morrow,  I  bled  him  again,  but  before 
midday  he  died  in  great  pain,  and  shortly  after  life  had  departed  a 
copious  discharge  of  white  foam  issued  from  his  nostrils,  by  which  I 
knew  that  his  illness  was  the  African  distemper. 

This  bitter  scourge  of  the  African  sportsman  prevails  throughout 
every  district  of  the  interior  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  At  no 
season  is  the  hunter's  stud  exempt  from  its  ravages ;  it  is  most  prevalent 
however  during  the  summer  months,  generally  commencing  with  the 
early  rains.  There  are  various  opinions  among  the  horse-breeders  of  the 
colony  regarding  its  prevention  and  cure  ;  but  notwithstanding  all  that 
has  been  done  and  said,  the  subject  still  remains  wrapped  in  utter  mys- 
tery. The  distemper  rarely  visits  districts  adjacent  to  the  sea,  and  is 
also  unusual  in  mountain  districts.  In  proportion  as  the  traveller  ad- 
vances from  the  sea,  so  will  he  find  the  sickness  prevalent.  In  all  years 
it  is  not  alike,  and  every  fifth  or  seventh  year  it  ravages  the  farms  on 
the  frontier  districts,  where  a  farmer  often  loses  from  fifty  to  a  hundred 
horses  in  a  single  season.  Bleeding  is  generally  believed  to  act  as  a  pre- 
ventive. When  a  horse  is  attacked  with  it  he  almost  invariably  comes 
up  to  his  master's  waggon,  or  the  door  of  his  dwelling-place,  as  if  solicit- 
ing assistance  in  his  deep  distress,  and  when  led  away  to  a  distance,  un- 
less he  be  secured,  the  poor  animal  will  continue  to  return  to  his  mas- 
ter's dwelling.  This  was  the  case  with  my  much-lamented  Colesberg, 
of  the  free  and  fiery  indomitable  spirit. 

I  had  also  the  mortification  to  observe  that  the  "  Immense  Brute  " 
was  affected,  evincing  symptoms  similar  to  those  of  Colesberg,  on  which 
I  had  him  caught  and  bled  him  freely.  About  the  hour  of  midday  we 
got  under  way,  when  I  trekked  till  sundown  in  a  south-westerly  course, 
steering  for  the  mountains  of  Bamangwato.  I  formed  my  encampment 
beside  a  little  fountain,  whose  name  I  never  ascertained. 


194    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Turn  my  Waggons  towards  the  Colony — A  Troop  of  Elephants  in  Indian  File — 
Splendid  Sport  amongst  them — Two  of  them  break  their  Tusks  in  falling — The 
Rainy  Season  commences — Erection  of  a  Bothy — The  gigantic  Nwana-tree — 
Sicomy's  Mountain  Kraal — Four  of  his  Subjects  become  my  Servants — 
Corriebely — The  Natives  astonished  by  my  finding  a  Mine  of  Lead — Elephant- 
shooting — Leave  the  land  of  Elephants — Bootlonamy — Terrific  Thunderstorm. 

Having  so  far  succeeded  in  the  object  of  my  expedition,  and  both  my 
waggons  being  now  heavily  laden  with  the  tusks  of  elephants  and  a  large 
collection  of  the  spoils  of  the  chase,  with  a  number  of  other  interesting 
curiosities,  I  at  length  resolved  once  more  to  turn  my  face  towards  the 
distant  dwellings  of  my  countrymen.  On  the  23rd  of  September,  how- 
ever, although  harassed  in  my  mind,  and  fearing  to  lose  all  my  horses  if 
I  did  not  speedily  forsake  the  country,  I  yielded  to  my  inclination,  and 
the  persuasions  of  Mutchuisho,  once  more  to  take  the  field,  and  follow 
the  spoor  of  two  bull  elephants,  reported  to  have  visited  a  distant  foun- 
tain. Before  starting  I  gave  Johannus  my  phlegme,  and  a  hasty  lesson 
in  the  art  of  bleeding,  with  instructions  to  bleed  copiously  any  of  my 
stud  evincing  the  slightest  symptoms  of  distemper.  We  held  an  easterly 
course,  and  at  sundown  on  the  second  day  I  bagged  a  white  rhinoceros 
and  a  fine  old  bull  elephant,  beside  whose  carcase  I  bivouacked  as  usual. 
On  the  forenoon  of  the  25th  I  saddled  up  and  held  for  camp,  accom- 
panied by  only  one  attendant. 

It  was  a  glorious  day,  with  a  cloudy  sky,  and  the  wind  blew  fresh  off 
the  Southern  Ocean.  Having  ridden  some  miles  in  a  northerly  direction, 
we  crossed  the  broad  and  gravelly  bed  of  a  periodical  river,  in  which 
were  abundance  of  holes  excavated  by  the  elephants,  containing 
delicious  water.  Having  passed  the  river,  we  entered  an  extensive 
grove  of  picturesque  cameel-dorn  trees,  clad  in  young  foliage  of  the 
most  delicious  green.  On  gaining  a  gentle  eminence  about  a  mile  be- 
yond this  grove,  I  looked  forth  upon  an  extensive  hollow,  where  I 
beheld  for  the  first  time  for  many  days  a  fine  old  cock  ostrich,  which 
quickly  observed  us  and  dashed  away  to  our  left.  I  had  ceased  to  de- 
vote my  attention  to  the  ostrich,  and  was  straining  my  eyes  in  opposite 
direction,  when  Kleinboy  called  out  to  me, 

"  Dar  loup  de  old  carle ;  "  and  turning  my  eyes  to  the  retreating 
ostrich,  I  beheld  two  first-rate  old  bull  elephants,  charging  along  at 
their  utmost  speed  within  a  hundred  yards  of  it.  They  seemed  at  first 
to  be  in  great  alarm,  but,  quickly  discovering  what  it  was  that  had 
caused  their  confusion,  they  at  once  reduced  their  pace  to  a  slow  and 
stately  walk.  This  was  a  fine  look-out,  the  country  appeared  to  be 
favourable  for  an  attack,  and  I  was  followed  by  Wolf  and  Bonteberg, 
both  tried  and  serviceable  dogs  with  elephants.  Owing  to  the  pace  at 
which  I  had  been  riding,  both  dogs  and  horses  were  out  of  breath,  so  I 
resolved  not  to  attack  the  elephants  immediately,  but  to  follow  slowly, 
holding  them  in  view. 

The  elephants  were  proceeding  right  up  the  wind,  and  the  distance 


MORE    ELEPHANT    SHOOTING.  195 

betwixt  us  was  about  five  hundred  yards.  I  advanced  quietly  towards 
them,  and  had  proceeded  about  half  way,  when,  casting  my  eyes  to  my 
right,  I  beheld  a  whole  herd  of  tearing  bull  elephants  standing  thick  to- 
gether on  a  wooded  eminence  within  three  hundred  yards  of  me.  These 
elephants  were  almost  to  leeward.  Now  the  correct  thing  to  do  was  to 
slay  the  best  in  each  troop,  which  I  accomplished  in  the  following- 
manner  : — I  gave  the  large  herd  my  wind,  upon  which  they  instantly 
tossed  their  trunks  aloft,  "  a  moment  snuffed  the  tainted  gale,"  and, 
wheeling  about,  charged  right  down  wind,  crashing  through  the  jungle 
in  dire  alarm.  My  object  now  was  to  endeavour  to  select  the  finest  bull, 
and  hunt  him  to  a  distance  from  the  other  troop  before  I  should  com- 
mence to  play  upon  his  hide.  Stirring  my  steed,  I  galloped  forward. 
Right  in  my  path  stood  two  rhinoceroses  of  the  white  variety,  and  to 
these  the  dogs  instantly  gave  chase.  I  followed  in  the  wake  of  the  re- 
treating elephants,  tracing  their  course  by  the  red  dust  which  they 
raised  and  left  in  clouds  behind  them. 

Presently  emerging  into  an  open  glade,  I  came  in  full  sight  of  the 
mighty  game  ;  it  was  a  truly  glorious  sight ;  there  were  nine  or  ten  of 
them,  which  were,  with  one  exception,  full-grown,  first-rate  bulls,  and 
all  of  them  carried  very  long,  heavy,  and  perfect  tusks.  Their  first 
panic  being  over,  they  had  reduced  their  pace  to  a  free,  majestic  walk, 
and  they  followed  one  leader  in  a  long  line,  exhibiting  an  appearance  so 
grand  and  striking  that  any  description,  however  brilliant,  must  fail  to 
convey  to  the  mind  of  the  reader  an  adequate  idea  of  the  reality.  In- 
creasing my  pace,  I  shot  alongside,  at  the  same  time  riding  well  out 
from  the  elephants,  the  better  to  obtain  an  inspection  of  their  tusks.  It 
was  a  difficult  matter  to  decide  which  of  them  I  should  select,  for  every 
elephant  seemed  better  than  his  neighbour ;  but,  on  account  of  the 
extraordinary  size  and  beauty  of  his  tusks,  I  eventually  pitched  upon 
a  patriarchal  bull,  which,  as  is  usual  with  the  heaviest,  brought  up  the 
rear. 

I  presently  separated  him  from  his  comrades,  and  endeavoured  to 
drive  him  in  a  northerly  direction.  There  is  a  peculiar  art  in  driving  an 
elephant  in  the  particular  course  which  you  may  fancy,  and,  simple  as  it 
may  seem,  it  nevertheless  requires  the  hunter  to  have  a  tolerable  idea  of 
what  he  is  about.  It  is  widely  different  from  driving  in  an  eland,  which 
also  requires  judicious  riding:  if  you  approach  too  near  your  elephant  or 
shout  to  him,  a  furious  charge  will  certainly  ensue,  whilst,  on  the  other 
hand,  if  you  give  him  too  wide  a  berth,  the  chances  are  that  you  will 
lose  him  in  the  jungle,  which,  notwithstanding  his  size,  is  a  very  simple 
matter,  and,  if  once  lost  sight  of,  it  is  more  than  an  even  bet  that  the 
hunter  will  never  again  obtain  a  glimpse  of  him.  The  ground  being 
favourable,  Kleinboy  called  to  me  to  commence  firing,  remarking  very 
prudently  that  he  was  probably  making  for  some  jungle  of  wait-a-bit 
thorns,  where  we  might  eventually  lose  him.  I  continued,  however,  to 
reserve  my  fire  until  I  had  hunted  him  to  what  I  considered  to  be  a  safe 
distance  from  the  two  old  fellows  which  we  had  first  discovered. 

At  length  closing  with  him,  I  dared  him  to  charge,  which  he  instantly 
did  in  fine  style,  and  as  he  pulled  up  in  his  career  I  yelled  to  him  a  note 


196    HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 

of  bold  defiance,  and,  cantering  alongside,  I  again  defied  him  to  the  com- 
bat. It  was  thus  the  fight  began,  and,  the  ground  being  still  favourable, 
I  opened  a  sharp  fire  upon  him,  and  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
twelve  of  my  bullets  were  lodged  in  his  forequarters.  He  now  evinced 
strong  symptoms  of  approaching  dissolution,  and  stood  catching  up  the 
dust  with  the  point  of  his  trunk  and  throwing  it  in  clouds  above  and 
around  him.  At  such  a  moment  it  is  extremely  dangerous  to  approach 
an  elephant  on  foot,  for  I  have  remarked  that,  although  nearly  dead,  he 
can  muster  strength  to  make  a  charge  with  great  impetuosity.  Being 
anxious  to  finish  him,  I  dismounted  from  my  steed,  and,  availing  myself 
of  the  cover  of  a  gigantic  nwana-tree,  whose  diameter  was  not  less  than 
ten  feet,  I  ran  up  within  twenty  yards,  and  gave  it  him  sharp  right  and 
left  behind  the  shoulder. 

These  two  shots  wound  up  the  proceeding ;  on  receiving  them,  he 
backed  stern  foremost  into  the  cover,  and  then  walked  slowly  away.  I 
had  loaded  my  rifle,  and  was  putting  on  the  caps,  when  I  heard  him  fall 
over  heavily ;  but,  alas  !  the  sound  was  accompanied  by  a  sharp  crack, 
which,  I  too  well  knew,  denoted  the  destruction  of  one  of  his  lovely 
tusks ;  and,  on  running  forward,  I  found  him  lying  dead,  with  the  tusk, 
which  lay  under,  snapped  through  the  middle. 

I  did  not  tarry  long  for  an  inspection  of  the  elephant,  but,  mounting 
my  horse,  I  at  once  set  off  to  follow  on  the  spoor  of  the  two  old  fellows 
which  the  ostrich  had  alarmed.  Fortunately  I  fell  in  with  a  party  of 
natives,  who  were  on  their  way  to  the  waggons  with  the  impedimenta, 
and,  assisted  by  these,  I  had  sanguine  hopes  of  shortly  overtaking  the 
noble  quarry.  We  had  not  gone  far  when  two  wild  boars,  with  enor- 
mous tusks,  stood  within  thirty  yards  of  me,  but  this  was  no  time  to 
fire,  and  a  little  after  a  pair  of  white  rhinoceroses  stood  directly  in  our 
path.  Casting  my  eyes  to  the  right,  I  beheld  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
of  me  a  herd  of  eight  or  ten  cow  elephants,  with  calves,  peacefully  brow- 
sing on  a  sparely  wooded  knoll.  The  spoor  we  followed  led  due  south, 
and  the  wind  was  as  fair  as  it  could  blow.  We  passed  between  two 
twin-looking  abrupt  pyramidal  hills,  composed  of  huge  disjointed  blocks 
of  granite,  which  lay  piled  above  each  other  in  grand  confusion.  To  the 
summit  of  one  of  these  I  ascended  with  a  native,  but  the  forest  in  ad- 
vance was  so  impenetrable  that  we  could  see  nothing  of  the  game  we 
sought.  Descending  from  the  hillock  we  resumed  the  spoor,  and  were 
enabled  to  follow  at  a  rapid  pace;  the  native  who  led  the  spooring  party 
being  the  best  tracker  in  Bamangwato.  I  had  presently  very  great  satis- 
faction to  perceive  that  the  elephants  had  not  been  alarmed,  their  course 
being  strewed  with  branches  which  they  had  chewed  as  they  slowly  fed 
along. 

The  trackers  now  became  extremely  excited,  and  strained  their  eyes 
on  every  side  in  the  momentary  expectation  of  beholding  the  elephants. 
At  length  we  emerged  into  an  open  glade,  and,  clearing  a  grove  of 
thorny  mimosas,  we  came  full  in  sight  of  one  of  them.  Cautiously  ad- 
vancing, and  looking  to  my  right,  I  next  discovered  his  comrade,  stand- 
ing in  a  thicket  of  low  wait-a-bits,  within  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  of 
me  ;  they  were  both  first-rate  old  bulls,  with  enormous  tusks  of  great 


MORE    ELEPHANT    SHOOTING.  197 

length.  I  dismounted;  and  warily  approached  the  second  elephant  for 
a  closer  inspection  of  his  tusks.  As  I  drew  near  he  slightly  turned  his 
head,  and  I  then  perceived  that  his  farther  one  was  damaged  towards 
the  point,  while  at  the  same  instant  his  comrade,  raising  his  head  clear 
of  the  bush  on  which  he  browsed,  displayed  to  my  delighted  eyes  a  pair 
of  the  most  beautiful  and  perfect  tusks  I  had  ever  seen. 

Regaining  my  horse,  I  advanced  towards  this  elephant,  and  when 
within  forty  yards  of  him  he  walked  slowly  on  before  me  in  an  open 
space,  his  huge  ears  gently  flapping,  and  entirely  concealing  me  from  his 
view.  Inclining  to  the  left,  I  slightly  increased  my  pace,  and  walked 
past  him  within  sixty  yards,  upon  which  he  observed  me  for  the  first 
time ;  but  probably  mistaking  "  Sunday  "  for  a  hartebeest,  he  continued 
his  course  with  his  eye  upon  me,  but  showed  no  symptoms  of  alarm. 
The  natives  had  requested  me  to  endeavour,  if  possible,  to  hunt  him  to- 
wards the  water,  which  lay  in  a  northerly  direction,  and  this  I  resolved 
to  do.  Having  advanced  a  little,  I  gave  him  my  wind,  when  he  was 
instantly  alarmed  and  backed  into  the  bushes,  holding  his  head  high 
and  right  to  me. 

Thus  he  stood  motionless  as  a  statue,  under  the  impression  probably 
that  owing  to  his  Lilliputian  dimensions  I  had  failed  to  observe  him, 
and  fancying  that  I  would  pass  on  without  detecting  him.  I  rode  slowly 
on,  and  described  a  semicircle  to  obtain  a  shot  at  his  shoulder,  and,  halt- 
ing my  horse,  I  fired  from  the  saddle ;  he  got  it  in  the  shoulder-blade, 
and,  as  slowly  and  silently  I  continued  my  course,  he  still  stood  gazing 
at  me  in  utter  astonishment.  Bill  and  Flam  were  now  slipped  by  the 
natives,  and  in  another  moment  they  were  barking  around  him.  I 
shouted  loudly  to  encourage  the  dogs  and  perplex  the  elephant,  who 
seemed  puzzled  to  know  what  to  think  of  us,  and,  shrilly  trumpeting, 
charged  headlong  after  the  dogs.  Retreating,  he  backed  into  the 
thicket,  then  charged  once  more,  and  made  clean  away,  holding  the 
course  I  wanted. 

When  I  tried  to  fire,  "  Sunday  "  was  very  fidgety,  and  destroyed  the 
correctness  of  my  aim.  Approaching  the  elephant,  I  presently 
dismounted,  and,  running  in,  gave  him  two  fine  shots  behind  the 
shoulder ;  then  the  dogs,  which  were  both  indifferent  ones,  ran  barking 
at  him.  The  consequence  was  a  terrific  charge,  the  dogs  at  once  making 
for  their  master,  and  bringing  the  elephant  right  upon  me.  I  had  no 
time  to  gain  my  saddle,  but  ran  for  my  life.  The  dogs,  fortunately,  took 
after  "  Sunday,"  who,  alarmed  by  the  trumpeting,  dashed  frantically 
away.  Though  in  the  midst  of  a  most  dangerous  affray,  I  could  not 
help  laughing  to  remark  horse,  dogs,  and  elephant  all  charging  along  in 
a  direct  line. 

The  dogs,  having  missed  their  master,  held  away  for  Kleinboy,  who 
had  long  disappeared  I  knew  not  whither.  "  Sunday  "  stood  still,  and 
commenced  to  graze,  while  the  elephant,  slowly  passing  within  a  few 
yards  of  him,  assumed  a  position  under  a  tree  beside  him.  Kleinboy 
presently  making  his  appearance,  I  called  to  him  to  ride  in  and  bring 
me  my  steed,  but  he  refused  and  asked  me  if  I  wished  him  to  go  head- 
long to  destruction.      "  Sunday "   having  fed  slowly   away   from   the 


198   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


elephant,  I  went  up  and  he  allowed  me  to  recapture  him.  I  now 
plainly  saw  that  the  elephant  was  dying,  but  I  continued  firing,  to 
hasten  his  demise.  Towards  the  end  he  took  up  a  position  in  a  dense 
thorny  thicket,  where  for  a  long  time  he  remained. 

Approaching  within  twelve  paces,  I  fired  my  last  two  shots,  aiming  at 
his  left  side,  close  behind  the  shoulder.  On  receiving  these  he  backed 
slowly  through  the  thicket,  and,  clearing  it,  walked  gently  forward 
about  twenty  yards,  when  he  suddenly  came  down  with  tremendous 
violence  right  on  his  broadside.  To  my  intense  mortification,  the  heavy 
fall  was  accompanied  by  a  loud  sharp  crack,  and  on  going  up  I  found 
one  of  his  matchless  tusks  broken  off  short  by  the  lip.  This  was  a 
glorious  day's  sport :  I  had  bagged  in  one  afternoon  probably  the  two 
finest  bull  elephants  in  Bamangwato,  and,  had  it  not  been  for  the 
destruction  of  their  noble  trophies,  which  were  the  two  finest  pair  of 
tusks  I  had  obtained  that  season,  my  triumph  on  the  occasion  would 
have  been  great  and  unalloyed. 

I  was  now  languid  and  faint  from  excessive  thirst,  and  the  nearest 
water  was  still  very  remote.  Being  joined  by  the  natives,  we  quickly 
proceeded  to  divest  the  side  of  the  elephant  of  a  large  sheet  of  the  outer 
skin,  when  of  the  under  one  we  constructed  a  pair  of  water-bags,  with 
which  two  of  the  natives  set  out,  leading  along  with  them  the  dogs  and 
horses ;  nor  did  they  rejoin  us  till  after  midnight,  having  lost  their 
reckoning  by  the  way.  Their  comrades  who  were  with  me,  conjecturing 
the  cause  of  the  delay,  requested  me  to  fire  signal-shots  at  intervals 
throughout  the  night,  which  was  the  means  of  their  eventually  reaching 
their  destination.  At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  day,  leaving 
Kleinboy  with  the  natives  to  look  after  the  ivory,  I  set  out  with  two 
men,  to  show  them  where  the  other  elephant  lay,  and  thence  to  continue 
my  way  to  camp. 

The  weather  had  hitherto  been  favourable  for  the  toilsome  pursuit  of 
elephant-hunting,  little  rain  having  fallen  since  I  first  entered  the  country. 
At  length,  however,  the  rainy  season  was  at  hand,  and  we  were  constantly 
visited  by  the  most  appalling  thunderstorms,  accompanied  by  over- 
whelming torrents  of  rain,  which  filled  the  hitherto  dry  nullahs  and 
gravelly  water-courses  with  running  streams,  and  converted  the  parched 
forest  and  arid  plains  into  blossoming  verdure  and  grassy  meads.  While 
hunting  I  was  often  overtaken  by  the  rains,  and  on  these  occasions  I 
still  managed  to  keep  myself  tolerably  comfortable,  by  compelling  the 
natives  to  erect  for  me  a  bothy,  or  temporary  hut.  This  duty  they 
often  proved  reluctant  to  perform ;  but  I  invariably  managed  to  gain 
my  point,  by  explaining  to  them  that,  if  my  guns  and  powder  were 
exposed  to  the  rain,  they  would  die,  and  then  I  could  kill  no  more 
elephants  for  them. 

When  attended  by  a  large  party  the  erection  of  a  good  substantial 
bothy  was  a  simple  and  easy  proceeding,  and  was  accomplished  in  the 
following  manner  : — One  party,  armed  with  tomahawks,  went  in  quest  of 
long  forked  poles,  which  they  cut  in  lengths  of  ten  feet ;  a  second  party 
gathered  green  brushwood  ;  and  the  third  collected  a  large  quantity  of 
long  dry  grass,  which  they  tore  out  of  the  ground  by  the  roots.     The 


ELEPHANTS    AND     RHINOCEKOSES .        199 


poles  were  set  up  in  a  circular  position,  the  forked  ends  meeting  and 
resting  against  one  another  overhead,  then  the  brushwood  was  tightly 
interlaced  between  the  poles,  leaving  a  small  low  aperture  for  the  door, 
and  the  fabric  was  effectually  thatched  with  the  long  grass,  the  conical 
summit  being  usually  crowned  either  with  the  enormous  ear  or  a  portion 
of  the  hide  of  an  elephant.  Such  was  the  bothy  which  the  natives  were 
wont  to  build  for  me  when  overtaken  by  storms,  or  when  the  sky  looked 
threatening,  during  the  remainder  of  that  and  all  the  subsequent  seasons 
that  I  hunted  among  the  Bechuana  tribes. 

But  it  often  happened,  when  I  had  lain  down  for  the  night  with  no 
other  roof  above  me  than  the  vaulted  canopy  of  heaven,  that  my  placid 
slumbers  were  rudely  disturbed  by  rain  falling  like  a  water-spout  on  my 
face.  Such  events  as  these  were  extremely  disagreeable,  more  especially 
when  it  came  down  so  heavily  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  maintain- 
ing our  usual  watch-fires.  In  weather  like  this  the  prowling  tyrant  of 
the  forest  is  ever  most  active  in  search  of  his  prey,  and  our  ears  were 
occasionally  greeted  with  the  deep-toned  voices  of  troops  of  lions,  as 
attracted  by  the  smell  of  our  beef,  they  prowled  around  our  encampments. 

I  continued  hunting  to  the  eastward  of  Bamangwato  until  the  3rd  of 
October,  during  which  time  I  added  four  other  noble  elephants,  besides 
rhinoceroses  and  other  animals,  to  my  already  satisfactory  list  of  game. 
It  is  about  this  latitude  that  the  traveller  will  first  meet  with  the  gigantic 
and  castle-like  nwana,  which  is  decidedly  the  most  striking  and  wonder- 
ful tree  among  the  thousands  which  adorn  the  South  African  forests. 
It  is  chiefly  remarkable  on  account  of  its  extraordinary  size,  actually 
resembling  a  castle  or  tower  more  than  a  forest-tree.  Throughout  the 
country  of  Bamangwato  the  average  circumference  of  these  trees  was 
from  thirty  to  forty  feet ;  but  on  subsequently  extending  my  researches 
in  a  north-easterly  direction,  throughout  the  more  fertile  forests  which 
clothe  the  boundless  tracts  through  which  the  fair  Limpopo  winds,  I 
daily  met  with  specimens  of  this  extraordinary  tree  averaging  from 
sixty  to  hundred  feet  in  circumference,  and  maintaining  this  thickness  to 
a  height  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet,  when  they  diverge  into  numerous 
goodly  branches,  whose  general  character  is  abrupt  and  horizontal,  and 
which  seem  to  terminate  with  a  peculiar  suddenness.  The  wood  of  this 
tree  is  soft  and  utterly  unserviceable;  the  shape  of  the  leaf  is  similar  to 
that  of  the  sycamore-tree,  but  its  texture  partakes  more  of  the  fig-leaf ; 
its  fruit  is  a  nut,  which  in  size  and  shape  resembles  the  egg  of  the  swan. 

A  remarkable  fact,  in  connection  with  these  trees,  is  the  manner  in 
which  they  are  disposed  throughout  the  forest.  They  are  found  standing 
singly,  or  in  rows,  invariably  at  considerable  distances  from  one  another, 
as  if  planted  by  the  hand  of  man ;  and  from  their  wondrous  size  and 
unusual  height  (for  they  always  tower  high  above  their  surrounding 
compeers),  they  convey  the  idea  of  being  strangers  or  interlopers  on  the 
ground  they  occupy. 

The  rains  having  fallen,  the  country  was  already  adorned  with  a 
goodly  coating  of  verdant  grass,  and  my  oxen,  having  done  little  else 
than  feed  and  rest  themselves  for  several  months,  were  now  full  of  spirit 
and  in  fine  condition,  and  rattled  along  before  my  heavily  laden  waggons, 


200    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES 


over  rugged  hills  and  through  the  trackless  mazes  of  the  forest,  at  a 
rapid  and  willing  pace,  and  on  the  evening  of  the  4th  of  October  I  once 
more  formed  my  encampment  at  Lesausau,  in  the  Bamangwato  Moun- 
tains, in  the  neighbourhood  of  Sicomy's  kraal. 

Here  I  was  quickly  welcomed  by  Sicomy,  who  visited  me  in  company 
with  a  numerous  body  of  his  tribe.  He  expressed  himself  much 
gratified  at  seeing  me  return  in  safety  from  the  dangerous  pursuit  in 
which  I  had  been  employed,  remarking  that  he  was  anxious  about  me 
in  my  absence,  for,  if  any  casualty  had  befallen  me,  my  king,  he  said, 
would  be  certain  to  seek  restitution  at  his  hands.  His  Majesty  was 
pleased  to  compliment  me  on  my  extraordinary  success  and  skill  in 
hunting,  and  observed  that  the  medicine  of  the  white  man  must  indeed 
be  strong. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening  he  amused  me  with  the  quaintness  of  his 
questions,  asking  me  if  my  father  and  mother  were  alive,  how  many 
brothers  and  sisters  I  had,  if  the  flocks  and  herds  of  my  king  were 
extremely  abundant,  and  if  his  subjects  were  more  numerous  than  his 
own.  On  informing  him  that  our  chief  was  a  woman,  he  seemed  much 
tickled  by  the  disclosure;  and  when  I  said  that  her  subjects  were  as 
numerous  as  the  locusts,  he  looked  round  on  his  warriors  with  an 
evident  grin  of  disbelief,  and  then  inquired  of  me  if  all  my  countrymen 
could  vanquish  the  elephants  as  easily  as  I  did.  This  was  a  puzzler  :  so 
I  replied  that  I  could  not  say ;  but  I  knew  that  the  hearts  of  all  my 
nation  were  very  strong,  like  the  heart  of  the  lion  when  his  cubs  are 
small.  The  whole  assembly  was  greatly  moved  by  this  bright  remark, 
and  a  general  murmur  of  surprise  and  admiration  extended  through  the 
dusky  ranks  as  "each  man  repeated  to  his  neighbour  the  surpassing 
courage  of  my  lion-hearted  countrymen.  Old  Mutchuisho  understood 
my  gibberish  better  than  any  of  the  rest,  and  acted  in  the  capacity  of 
interpreter  between  me  and  the  king. 

Our  conversation  was  maintained  partly  by  means  of  signs,  my  attain- 
ments in  the  Sichuana  language  being  as  yet  but  limited.  Mutchuisho 
now  intimated  to  me  that  two  friends  of  Sicomy's,  with  their  two 
attendants,  wished  to  accompany  me  to  the  colony  in  the  capacity  of 
cattle-herds,  who  promised  at  the  same  time  to  make  themselves 
generally  useful  in  the  way  of  collecting  firewood  and  carrying  venison 
home  to  the  waggons.  To  this  proposal  I  fortunately  agreed,  and  the 
four  aspirants  came  forward,  and  were  duly  introduced  to  me.  The 
names  of  these  four  Bechuanas  were  Mollyee,  Mollyeon,  Kapain,  and 
Kuruman :  the  two  former  belonged  to  the  aristocracy,  and  were  old 
friends  of  mine,  having  often  assisted  me  in  the  field.  These  men 
agreed  to  serve  me  faithfully  as  far  as  the  sea  and  back  again  to  the 
country  of  their  chief,  in  consideration  of  which  I  promised  on  my  part 
to  reward  them  with  a  cow  and  musket  each. 

Mollyee  and  Mollyeon  were  brothers ;  they  were  tall,  active-looking 
savages,  with  large,  bright,  sparkling  eyes  and  a  pleasing  cast  of  features. 
Kapain  was  a  short,  thickset,  noisy  individual,  remarkable  for  his  ugliness, 
and  was  the  funniest  fellow  in  all  Bamangwato.  Kuruman  was  a  good- 
natured  boy  of  about  sixteen  years  of  age ;  his  face  was  prepossessing, 


"CLEAN    SWEEP"    OF    ELEPHANTS.        201 


resembling  that  of  a  girl  more  than  the  sex  to  which  he  professed  to 
belong.  I  entertained  Sicomy  with  stewed  meat  and  coffee,  and  he  and 
his  retinue  remained  that  night  in  my  encampment.  Before  retiring  to 
rest  he  intimated  to  me,  through  Mutchuisho,  that  he  wished  to  trade 
with  me  on  the  ensuing  day,  which  I  said  I  should  be  happy  to  do  until 
the  hour  of  midday,  when  I  would  positively  inspan  and  leave  Lesausau. 

Accordingly,  at  an  early  hour  on  the  morrow  sundry  fine  tusks  and 
some  good  specimens  of  native  arms  and  costume  made  their  appearance, 
which  I  obtained  in  barter  for  beads,  ammunition,  and  other  articles. 
On  inquiring  of  the  king  what  had  become  of  Isaac,  he  said  that  he  had 
long  since  returned  to  Kuruman  in  company  with  a  son  of  "old  Seretse," 
a  Bechuana  of  distinction  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  Kuruman.  This 
individual,  whose  name,  being  translated,  signifies  "mud,"  is  remarkable 
for  his  bitterness  against  the  advancement  of  the  Christian  religion  and 
for  the  number  of  his  progeny.  Bidding  adieu  to  Sicomy  at  midday  on 
the  5th,  I  continued  my  march  for  Corriebely,  which  I  reached  about 
noon  on  the  following  day.  I  was  accompanied,  as  usual,  by  a  number 
of  the  natives,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a  supply  of  flesh,  elephants  being 
reported  to  have  revisited  Massouey.  Heavy  rains  had  fallen  through- 
out this  district,  and  the  country  now  presented  an  entirely  new 
appearance,  rank  young  grass  having  everywhere  sprung  up,  and  the 
plains  and  forests  displaying  a  profusion  of  the  richest  verdure.  It  was 
here  that  I  had  concealed  a  large  quantity  of  lead,  in  a  hole  beneath  the 
ashes  of  my  fire,  before  recrossing  the  mountains  of  Bamangwato. 

Proceeding  to  the  spot,  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  observe  that  the 
ground  appeared  to  have  been  undisturbed ;  and,  returning  to  the 
waggons,  I  commenced  to  unlash  from  the  side  of  one  of  these  a 
shovel.  The  natives,  who  always  watched  my  movements  with  great 
attention,  at  once  observed  me,  and  a  large  party  followed  me  to  my 
former  fireplace.  Here,  to  their  surprise,  I  began  to  excavate  ;  and  on 
beholding  the  lead  they  seemed  utterly  astounded,  and  I  could  read 
very  plainly  in  their  faces  that,  had  they  known  it  was  there,  they 
would  have  saved  my  oxen  the  trouble  of  transporting  it  across  the 
sandy  deserts  betwixt  me  and  Bakatla.  On  reaching  Massouey,  and 
examining  the  fountain,  I  sought  in  vain  for  the  tracks  of  elephants ; 
the  natives,  nevertheless,  declared  that  one  or  two  herds  of  these  were 
still  to  be  met  with  in  the  district,  which  I  inclined  to  credit ;  and  this 
report  turned  out  to  be  correct,  for  the  succeeding  day  I  followed  and 
succeeded  in  bagging  a  whole  herd  of  eight  bull  and  cow  elephants, 
after  a  most  exciting  chase.  The  natives  were  overjoyed  at  my  success, 
and,  while  talking  over  the  circumstance  to  each  other,  I  observed  that 
they  frequently  drew  their  hands  across  their  mouth,  a  gesture  com- 
monly made  use  of  by  them  when  a  "  clean  sweep  "  (as  in  the  present 
instance)  had  been  made,  either  in  the  chase  or  in  their  combats  with 
each  other. 

I  continued  hunting  at  Massouey  till  the  12th,  when,  bidding  a  long 
farewell  to  the  land  of  elephants,  I  inspanned,  and  marched  upon 
Lepeby,  which  I  reached  at  an  early  hour  on  the  following  day,  having 
travelled  several  hours  during  the  night,  availing  myself  of  the  bright 


202   HUNTING  AND  SPOETING  ADVENTUEES. 

moonlight.  When  last  I  visited  this  fine  fountain  the  game  drank  at  it 
in  numerous  herds,  but  now  not  an  animal  of  any  kind  came  near  it, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  rhinoceroses.  This  I  always  found  to  be 
the  case  at  the  fountains  during  the  summer  months,  when  the  game  are 
very  independent  of  water,  owing  to  the  more  abundant  moisture  con- 
tained in  the  young  grass.  In  the  forenoon  I  went  birdnesting  among 
the  reeds  and  rushes  which  grew  around  the  fountain.  Hundreds  of 
birds  resembling  the  redpole  were  busy  building  their  grassy  nests, 
which  they  ingeniously  suspended  between  the  tops  of  the  reeds.  In 
the  rushes  I  found  two  nests  of  the  water-hen,  containing  eggs,  which, 
along  with  the  nests,  exactly  corresponded  with  these  in  Scotland. 
Two  beautifully-painted  wild  geese,  an  egret,  or  white  heron,  and  about 
twenty  teal,  ornamented  the  fountain,  and  were  so  tame  that  they  per- 
mitted me  to  approach  within  a  few  yards  of  them. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  16th  I  trekked  for  Bootlonamy,  which  I 
reached  at  sundown  on  the  same  evening,  and  drew  up  the  waggons 
under  an  impenetrable  grove  of  picturesque  mimosas,  which  were  then 
gaily  decked  with  a  profusion  of  highly  scented  yellow  blossoms, 
brightly  contrasting  with  their  summer  vestment  of  delicious  green. 
Here  I  continued  hunting  for  several  days,  and  enjoyed  excellent  sport, 
daily  securing  several  fine  specimens  of  the  different  varieties  of  game 
frequenting  the  district.  On  one  occasion  while  hunting  I  started  a 
secretary  from  off  her  nest,  which  was  built  on  the  top  of  a  very  dense 
green  tree,  with  thorns  on  the  fish-hook  principle.  With  much  diffi- 
culty I  cut  my  way  to  the  large  thorny  branch  on  which  the  nest  was 
built,  and,  to  proceed  farther  being  impossible,  from  the  denseness  of 
the  thorns,  I  cut  through  this  branch  with  my  knife,  and  by  dragging  it 
down  I  got  hold  of  the  eggs,  which  were  the  size  and  shape  of  a 
turkey's,  and  the  colour  of  a  buzzard's  egg. 

On  the  forenoon  of  the  19th  we  were  visited  by  a  most  terrific  storm. 
The  thunder  was  the  most  appalling  I  had  ever  heard,  resembling  the 
simultaneous  discharge  of  a  thousand  pieces  of  artillery  :  it  burst  close 
over  my  head  with  a  report  so  sudden  and  tremendous,  that  I  involun- 
tarily trembled,  and  the  sweat  ran  down  my  brow.  At  other  times  the 
thunder  rumbled  on  every  side,  and  rolled  away  with  a  long-protracted 
sound,  which  had  not  died  before  fresh  explosions  burst  above  and 
around  me.  The  lightning  was  so  vivid  that  it  pained  my  eyes ;  it 
seemed  so  near,  that  I  fancied  every  moment  it  must  strike  the  wag- 
gons, which  would  certainly  have  proved  extremely  inconvenient,  as  I 
had  300  lbs.  of  gunpowder  stowed  in  one  of  them  beneath  my  bed. 

About  sundown  the  storm  had  passed  away,  having  exquisitely  puri- 
fied the  atmosphere,  while  the  grateful  earth  and  fragrant  forest  emitted 
a  perfume  of  overpowering  sweetness.  I  then  sauntered  out  with  my 
rifle  towards  where  the  oxen  were  grazing,  and,  falling  in  with  a  herd  of 
brindled  gnoos,  I  shot  a  couple  of  shaggy  old  fellows,  firing  right  and 
left.  The  storm  set  in  again  about  ten  p.m.  with  thunder  and  lightning, 
which  continued  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  night. 


DESERTION    OF    MY    SERVANTS.  203 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

All  my  Colonial  Servants  desert  me — Pursue  them  in  vain — Both  Waggons  get  dis- 
abled— Melancholy  Anticipations — Cut  a  Path  through  the  Forest — A  Sandy 
Desert — Cattle  dying  for  want  of  Water — Troubles  surmounted — Pallahs  and 
Koodoos — A  Lion  and  Leopard  visit  the  Camp  at  Midnight — Another  horse 
dies  of  Distemper — We  reach  Booby — One  of  the  Axletrees  breaks — The  Bakat- 
las  assist  me — The  Baggage-waggon  upset  in  a  River — The  Distemper  kills 
more  Horses — Lions  roaring — Arrive  at  Dr.  Livingstone's — March  upon  Chou- 
aney — The  Ngotwani — A  Herd  of  Buffaloes  among  the  Reeds. 

I  had  now  arrived  at  a  period  of  considerable  importance  in  my  lonely 
expedition,  an  event  here  occurring  which  caused  me  a  world  of  trouble 
and  anxiety,  yet  which  was  nevertheless  finally  beneficial  in  its  results, 
as  it  taught  me  what  difficulties  a  man  may  surmount  when  he  is  pressed 
by  adversity,  and  it  was  also  the  means  of  my  becoming  an  accomplished 
waggon-driver.  I  allude  to  my  being  abandoned  by  all  my  colonial  ser- 
vants, with  the  exception  of  Ruyter,  the  little  Bushman.  I  attributed 
this  unmanly  and  dastardly  proceeding  mainly  to  their  despair  of  suc- 
ceeding in  bringing  the  waggons  safely  across  the  sandy  deserts  inter- 
vening betwixt  me  and  the  distant  missionary  station  of  Bakatla,  on  ac- 
count of  the  broken  state  of  one  of  the  axletrees  of  my  travelling 
waggon,  Kleinboy  in  one  of  his  drunken  fits  having  driven  it  against  a 
tree  with  such  violence  that  one  of  the  wooden  arms  of  the  fore  axletree 
was  cracked  right  across,  so  that  little  now  held  the  wheel  excepting  the 
linchpin  and  the  iron, skein.  I  remarked  on  the  22nd  that  there  was 
something  unusual  on  the  minds  of  my  colonial  followers,  for  none  of 
them  could  look  me  in  the  face ;  and  in  the  evening  I  spoke  harshly  to 
them  concerning  some  ground  coffee  which  I  had  missed  from  my 
canteen. 

On  the  23rd  of  October  I  was  lying  asleep  in  my  waggon,  a  little  be- 
fore the  day  dawned,  when  Ruyter  awoke  me,  to  report  that  my  four 
Hottentots  had  decamped  during  the  night.  He  said  that  each  of  them 
had  taken  with  him  a  large  bundle  of  biltongue  or  sun-dried  meat,  and 
that  they  had  tried  hard  to  prevail  on  him  to  accompany  them.  This 
was  a  rather  startling  announcement,  for  I  had  barely  enough  of  hands 
to  perform  the  work  when  they  were  with  me,  and  the  four  savages 
from  Bamangwato  were,  like  myself,  quite  unaccustomed  to  the  labori- 
ous and  intricate  art  of  waggon  leading  and  driving,  and  the  inspanning 
and  outspanning  of  oxen.  Imagining  that  the  Hottentots  would  not 
persevere  in  so  rash  and  unwarranted  a  measure,  and  that  they  would 
assuredly  change  their  minds  and  retrace  their  steps  to  their  master 
when  they  reflected  on  the  step  they  had  taken,  I  did  not  endeavour 
to  overtake  them,  but  employed  the  morning  in  stowing  the  waggons, 
lashing  down  pots,  spades,  axes,  etc.,  in  their  proper  places,  and  over- 
hauling the  gear  preparatory  to  marching. 

Having  breakfasted,  I  and  the  little  bushman,  assisted  by  the  savages, 
lassoed,  sorted,  and  yoked  twenty-four  oxen,  placing  twelve  before  each 
waggon,  when  we  cracked  our  whips  and  started  for  Bootlonamy.  Mol- 
lyee  and  Mollyeon  led  the  teams,  and  Kapain  and  Kuruman  followed 


204  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES 


behind  the  waggons,  driving  the  horses  and  loose  oxen.  In  former  days 
I  had  acquired  considerable  experience  in  driving  tandem  and  four-in- 
hand  ;  but  I  had  now  undertaken  a  pursuit  of  a  widely  different  char- 
acter. I  soon,  however,  became  quite  au  fait  in  the  mysteries  connected 
with  the  driving  of  oxen,  and  learnt  to  inspan  and  drive  my  own  wag- 
gons with  nearly  the  same  expedition  as  before  the  desertion  of  the 
Hottentots. 

The  vley  of  Bootlonamy  being  firm  and  hard,  we  rattled  along  it  at 
our  wonted  pace ;  but  in  the  evening,  as  we  cleared  the  vley,  and  en- 
tered on  the  sandy  tracts  beyond,  the  oxen,  having  discovered  that  their 
new  drivers  could  not  wield  the  whips  with  the  rapidity  and  execution 
of  the  old,  declined  to  move  along  the  heavy  sand  beyond  the  pace  they 
fancied,  often  halting  of  their  own  accord.  Eventually,  in  ascending  a 
sandy  ridge,  the  Bushman's  waggon  stuck  fast  in  the  deep  sand,  and  in 
trying  to  drag  it  out  the  oxen  broke  the  "  disselboom,"  or  pole.  Find- 
ing that  the  labours  we  had  undertaken  were  greater  than  I  had  calcu- 
lated upon,  I  resolved  to  ride  on  the  morrow  in  pursuit  of  the  runa- 
ways ;  and  accordingly  at  daybreak  on  the  following  day,  leaving  the 
waggons  and  their  valuable  contents  at  the  mercy  of  the  savages,  I 
started  with  the  Bushman  and  a  spare  horse  to  endeavour  to  overtake 
them. 

There  was  no  water  where  the  waggons  stood,  so  I  instructed  Mol- 
lyeon  to  proceed  with  the  cattle  in  quest  of  that  essential  requisite.  I 
held  along  my  old  waggon-track,  where  we  traced  the  footsteps  of  the 
Hottentots ;  and  having  ridden  some  miles,  we  reached  the  spot  where 
they,  had  slept,  and  where  the  ashes  of  the  fire  still  were  smouldering. 
I  followed  up  their  spoor  till  mid-day,  when  I  accidentally  took  up  the 
spoor  of  a  party  of  Bakalahari,  which  we  followed  in  a  westerly  direction, 
imagining  that  the  Hottentots  were  with  them.  This  spoor  we  even- 
tually lost  in  stony  ground,  and  then  we  rode  back  to  where  we  had 
lost  the  right  spoor,  which  after  some  search  we  found,  and  once  more 
held  on. 

Our  steeds  were  now  fatigued,  for  we  had  ridden  sharp,  and  they 
were  faint  with  thirst,  as  we  were  also ;  but  we  sought  in  vain  for  water 
in  the  vleys  which  had  contained  it  when  we  last  passed  through  the 
country.  A  little  before  the  sun  went  down  we  reached  three  small 
pools  of  water  left  by  the  recent  rains,  and  here  the  Hottentots  had 
drunk  and  were  at  that  moment  hiding  in  a  bush  within  a  hundred 
yards  of  me,  as  I  discovered  on  the  ensuing  day.  I  however  failed  to 
observe  them ;  and  fancying  that  they  had  held  on  to  a  larger  vley, 
where  I  had  encamped  on  my  way  to  Bamangwato,  we  proceeded  for 
that  place,  but,  night  setting  in,  we  at  length  lost  our  way  in  the  intri- 
cacies of  the  forest. 

Faint,  hungry,  and  thirsty,  we  now  desisted  from  our  fruitless  search, 
and  on  looking  for  my  matches  I  found  to  my  intense  mortification  that 
I  had  lost  them;  and  being  on  this  occasion  minus  my  shooting-belt  and 
rifle,  we  spent  the  night  without  a  fire,  thereby  incurring  great  danger 
of  losing  the  horses  and  ourselves  by  lions.  Scarcely  had  we  off-saddled 
when  two  huge  rhinoceroses  came  up  and  stood  within  twenty  yards  of 


THE    WAGGONS    DISABLED.  205 


us,  and  would  not  for  a  long  time  be  persuaded  to  depart.  Some  time 
after  I  observed  a  dark-looking  object  prowling  around  us,  and  evidently 
anxious  to  cultivate  the  acquaintance  either  of  ourselves  or  the  horses. 
It  was  a  hyaena.  Rising  from  my  comfortless  couch,  I  pelted  him  with 
stones,  when  he  took  the  hint  and  made  off.  The  horses  were  com- 
pletely done  up,  and  when  knee-haltered  would  not  feed.  One  of  them 
on  being  off- saddled  lay  stretched  upon  the  ground,  and  after  a  while, 
on  endeavouring  to  walk,  repeatedly  rolled  over  on  his  side. 

On  the  25th  I  cast  loose  the  horses  as  soon  as  it  was  clear,  and 
ascended  to  the  summit  of  a  pyramidal  little  hill  beside  which  we  had 
slept,  to  ascertain  from  thence  whither  I  had  wandered  ;  but  the  view 
from  this  hill  did  not  help  to  elucidate  matters,  endless  forests  stretching 
away  on  every  side  without  a  mark  to  assist  my  memory.  I  now  re- 
solved to  seek  no  longer  for  my  ruffianly  Hottentots,  but  to  retrace  my 
spoor  to  the  water  I  had  discovered  on  the  preceding  evening,  and  halt 
there  for  a  day  until  the  horses  should  sufficiently  recover  their  strength 
to  carry  us  back  to  the  waggons.  By  adhering  to  the  horses'  tracks,  I 
reached  the  water  at  an  early  hour,  and  here  I  discovered  the  fresh 
tracks  of  the  Hottentots  on  the  top  of  our  horses'  spoor  of  the  preceding 
evening. 

I  had,  however,  resolved  not  to  ride  another  yard  after  them ;  I  ac- 
cordingly off-saddled,  and  remained  there  for  the  remainder  of  the  day. 
In  the  vicinity  of  the  water  we  discovered  the  spot  where  the  Hottentots 
had  slept  during  the  night.  Although  possessed  of  flint  and  steel,  they 
had  not  kindled  a  fire,  having  nevertheless  collected  fuel  for  that  pur- 
pose previous  to  our  arrival  on  the  preceding  evening.  This,  as  I  after- 
wards learnt  from  themselves,  was  to  prevent  our  discovering  their 
position,  in  case  we  had  returned  that  evening.  I  spent  most  of  the  day 
in  endeavouring  to  make  fire,  which  I  failed  to  accomplish  for  want  of 
tinder.  This  was  extremely  annoying,  for  I  had  brought  along  with  me 
both  tea  and  coffee,  as  also  a  kettle,  and  a  haunch  of  springbok. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th  we  cast  loose  our  horses,  and  proceeded 
to  consume  raw  meat  and  water.  While  thus  breakfasting,  a  pair  of 
superb  roan  antelopes  approached  the  water,  advancing  within  easy 
range  before  they  noticed  us.  We  saddled  up  and  rode  for  the  waggons, 
which  we  reached  in  the  afternoon,  having  off-saddled  for  an  hour  by 
the  way.  I  found  the  waggons  as  I  had  left  them,  and  also  the  savages, 
who  had  fortunately  discovered  a  small  vley  of  rain-water  about  two 
miles  to  the  southward  of  their  position,  where  they  had  daily  refreshed 
themselves  and  the  cattle. 

My  situation  was  by  no  means  an  enviable  one,  and  my  mind  was 
burdened  with  anxiety.  One  of  the  waggons  was  fast  in  deep  sand, 
with  the  dissel-boom  broken,  and  the  fore-axle  of  the  other  was  cracked, 
so  that  at  any  moment  it  was  likely  to  give  way ;  and  if  this  should 
happen  on  the  line  of  march  while  crossing  the  desert  and  far  from 
water,  I  should  have  had  no  alternative  but  to  abandon  the  waggon  to 
its  fate._  Moreover,  owing  to  the  indolent  disposition  of  the  Hottentots, 
everything  connected  with  the  gear  was  broken  and  out  of  order,  while 

13 


206    HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 

the  hatchets  appeared  to  have  been  used  in  chopping  gun-flints,  and  all 
their  handles  were  in  similar  condition. 

I  arose  at  dawn  on  the  morning  of  the  27th,  and,  having  cast  loose 
the  horses  and  oxen,  I  rummaged  out  my  tools,  and  in  two  hours  I  got 
out  the  broken  dissel-boom,  and  put  in  a  new  one,  which  I  formed  from 
the  stem  of  a  tough  mimosa.  This  being  accomplished,  I  yoked  twelve 
oxen  to  the  waggon  which  was  sticking  in  the  sand,  but  tried  in  vain  to 
make  them  drag  it  out,  for  the  cunning  animals  knew  that  it  was  fast, 
and  would  not  exert  themselves  to  attempt  to  extricate  it.  After  in- 
conceivable trouble  and  repeatedly  shifting  the  positions  of  the  various 
oxen  in  the  span,  I  at  length  made  a  fortunate  arrangement  of  the  oxen. 
The  brutes  for  once  pulled  all  together,  and  once  more  the  waggon  was 
in  motion.  I  then  inspanned  the  other  team,  and  we  reached  the  water 
without  further  trouble.  As  we  neared  the  water  I  detected  a  giraffe 
browsing  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  ;  this  was  well,  for  we  required  flesh. 

Commanding  silence,  I  hastily  outspanned,  and,  having  saddled  the 
Old  Grey,  I  rode  with  Ruyter  to  where  we  last  had  seen  the  "  Tootla." 
Having  proceeded  a  short  distance  through  the  forest,  I  again  discovered 
him  within  a  hundred  yards  of  me.  He  proved  to  be  a  young  bull,  and 
led  me  a  severe  chase  over  very  heavy  ground.  Towards  the  end  I 
thought  he  was  going  to  beat  me,  and  I  was  about  to  pull  up,  when 
suddenly  he  lowered  his  tail,  by  which  I  knew  that  his  race  was  run. 
Urging  my  horse,  I  was  soon  alongside  of  him,  and  with  three  shots  I 
ended  his  career.  Having  obtained  for  the  present  both  flesh  and  water, 
my  next  lookout  was  to  consider  how  I  was  to  cross  the  sandy  desert 
which  lay  betwixt,  me  and  the  kraal  of  Booby.  It  was  very  evident 
that  I  could  not  return  by  the  route  I  had  previously  held,  having  al- 
ready ascertained  that  that  country  to  ox-waggons  was  now  impassable, 
all  the  waters  being  dry. 

On  explaining  this  to  my  Bamangwato  followers,  Mollyeon  stated 
that  he  had  once  traversed  that  country  in  a  dry  season  many  years 
before,  and  that  he  and  his  comrades  had  obtained  water  in  some  deep 
pits,  which  had  been  excavated  by  Bakalahari  in  a  rocky  part  of  the 
desert,  considerably  to  the  eastward  of  my  former  route.  He  said  we 
should  require  the  greater  part  of  two  days  to  reach  this  water,  our 
route  thither  lying  across  a  soft  sandy  soil,  varied  in  many  places  by  al- 
most impenetrable  forest ;  he  moreover  seemed  a  little  doubtful  as  to 
whether  we  should  be  able  to  discover  the  place,  and,  when  we  did, 
whether  the  pits  might  not  prove  dry.  This  was  certainly  a  bright  look- 
out, more  especially  as  the  next  water  (which  he  represented  as  a  per- 
petual fountain)  was  two  days  beyond  the  uncertain  pits. 

On  the  28th  I  was  occupied  about  the  waggons  all  the  day,  putting 
sundry  things  to  rights.  I  had  thoughts  of  trekking  on  the  following 
day,  and  could  not  divest  myself  of  the  most  dismal  forebodings,  for  I 
felt  certain  that  the  heavier  waggon  would  again  stick  fast,  or  that  the 
cracked  axletree  would  come  in  contact  with  some  tree,  and  leave  me  in 
the  desert  a  hopeless  wreck,  remote  from  water  or  any  assistance.  I 
had  certainly  good  reason  to  be  uneasy.  On  the  29th  I  waited  till  the 
sun  was  up,  that  the  cattle  might  drink  plentifully,  when  I  immediately 


A    SANDY    DESERT.  207 

inspanned,  and  commenced  my  anxious  journey.  For  the  first  ten  or 
twelve  miles  we  proceeded  along  a  hollow,  where  the  soil  was  in  general 
tolerably  firm  ;  but  on  leaving  this  hollow  we  entered  upon  a  most  im- 
practicable country,  the  waggons  sinking  about  four  inches  in  the  soft 
sand.  Though  I  held  on  I  had  not  the  slightest  hope  of  getting  through 
it,  for  every  hundred  yards  required  the  utmost  exertion  both  of  our- 
selves and  oxen ;  yet  I  had  the  best  of  two  days  more  of  it  to  expect 
before  I  could  reach  the  promised  water.  To  increase  our  difficulties 
our  progress  was  presently  opposed  by  an  interminable  forest,  where  the 
trees  stood  so  close  together  as  often  to  bar  the  possibility  of  the 
waggons  passing  betwixt  them. 

On  these  occasions  it  became,  imperative  upon  me  to  turn  pioneer, 
and  in  the  course  of  the  day  I  felled  with  the  axe  not  less  than  fifty 
trees.  In  this  manner  I  held  on  till  the  sun  went  down,  when  I  halted 
in  dense  forest  and  cast  loose  the  oxen  for  an  hour  ;  after  which,  with 
infinite  trouble,  I  lassoed  the  two  teams  and  made  them  fast  on  the 
trektow,  in  their  proper  places,  ready  to  inspan  at  dawn  of  day.  I  had 
also  nine  horses  to  catch  and  make  fast,  and  none  to  assist  me  but  the 
little  Bushman  ;  for  the  savages  were  so  lazy,  awkward,  and  disobliging, 
that  one  Hottentot  would  have  assisted  me  more  than  the  whole  pack 
of  them. 

On  the  30th  I  inspanned  before  it  was  light,  and  again  held  on,  as  on 
the  preceding  day,  through  heavy  sand  and  interminable  forest,  where 
it  was  necessary  to  keep  the  axes  in  constant  operation.  In  the  after- 
noon we  reached  the  promised  watering-place,  but  on  springing  from  the 
waggon,  and  running  anxiously  forward  for  an  inspection  of  the  pits,  I 
had  the  mortification  to  find  that  all  they  contained  was  a  little  mud,  in 
which  sundry  heterogeneous  insects  were  sprawling.  The  Bechuanas, 
however,  signified  to  me  that,  by  clearing  out  the  pits  and  digging  a 
little,  water  would  make  its  appearance.  Accordingly,  having  out- 
spanned  the  jaded  oxen,  I  unlashed  the  spades,  which  were  vigorously 
plied,  when  the  water  began  very  reluctantly  to  trickle  in  from  every 
side. 

"We  thus  cleared  out  the  three  most  likely  pits,  and  in  two  hours  I 
obtained  a  very  moderate  supply  of  water  for  each  of  the  oxen,  which  I 
gave  them  individually  out  of  my  large  flesh-pot.  My  poor  horses  did 
not  get  a  drop ;  and  we  now  proceeded  to  inspan,  and  resume  our  march 
beneath  a  burning  sun  of  unusual  intensity.  The  sand  became,  if 
possible,  worse  than  ever,  and  the  waggons  repeatedly  stuck  fast.  We 
held  through  a  jungle  of  the  most  virulent  wait-a-bit  thorns,  which  re- 
duced my  waggon-sails  to  ribbons  ;  and  when  the  sun  went  down  I 
halted  for  the  night,  and  cast  loose  my  wretched  oxen  for  an  hour. 

On  the  31st  my  vans  were  again  in  motion  before  daylight ;  and 
about  four  p.m.,  to  my  infinite  delight  and  great  relief,  I  got  clear  of  the 
desert,  and  reached  a  strong  perennial  fountain  situated  in  a  finely- 
wooded  valley  on  the  northern  borders  of  the  mountain  country,  ex- 
tending to  the  southward,  with  little  intermission,  as  far  as  the  chain  of 
the  Kurrichane  range.  Towards  the  end  of  the  march  it  was  necessary 
to  descend  into  a  rugged  valley,  and  cross  a  very  awkward  watercourse, 


208    HUNTING  AND  SPOETING  ADVENTUEES. 

in  which  the  baggage-waggon  was  within  a  hair-breath  of  being  capsized. 
Ascending  from  this  valley,  we  crossed  a  precipitous  ridge,  where  large 
disjointed  masses  of  rock  threatened  the  momentary  destruction  of  the 
waggons. 

As  I  was  yoking  one  of  the  oxen,  which  had  broken  his  yokeskey  and 
got  out  of  his  place,  I  received  from  a  vicious  ox  in  front  a  severe  kick 
on  the  cap  of  the  knee,  which  gave  me  intense  pain  and  laid  me  pros- 
trate on  the  ground.  I  however  managed  to  drive  the  waggon  to  its 
destination,  where,  after  lying  for  a  few  minutes,  the  pain  increased  so 
much  that  I  lay  panting  on  my  bed.  Just  as  I  had  outspanned,  and 
before  my  knee  had  stiffened,  a  herd  of  zebras  approached  the  fountain 
to  drink.  This  was  a  godsend  at  such  a  moment,  our  flesh  being  at  an 
end  and  the  dogs  starving.  In  torture  as  I  was,  I  managed  to  make  a 
limping  stalk  towards  them,  when  I  obtained  a  fine  double-shot  and 
brought  down  a  brace  of  fine  old  mares. 

The  following  day  was  the  1st  of  November ;  my  knee  was  much 
better,  and  in  the  afternoon  I  went  out  with  Euyter  and  shot  two 
koodoos  and  a  pallah.  I  shot  one  of  the  koodoos  from  the  saddle  as  he 
bounded  past  me  at  a  hundred  yards.  At  night,  as  I  lay  down,  I  heard 
a  lion  roar  in  the  vicinity  of  camp,  and  presently  I  was  asleep.  In  a 
few  hours  I  was  awoke  by  an  unusual  disturbance  in  the  camp,  and, 
raising  my  head,  I  saw  the  Bechuanas  standing  close  together  round 
the  fire  with  their  faces  outwards,  while  they  shrieked  and  talked  with 
unusual  volubility.  I  guessed  at  once  that  a  lion  caused  the  rumpus  ; 
and  I  was  right.  The  dogs  were  barking  loud  and  angrily,  and  kept 
rushing  back  occasionally  to  the  fire,  as  if  pursued  by  some  animal. 
The  night  was  pitch  dark,  so  that  nothing  could  be  seen  ;  but  Mollyeon 
told  me  that  a  lion  and  a  leopard  were  prowling  around  us,  endeavour- 
ing to  obtain  the  venison  of  the  zebras,  which  hung  in  festoons  in 
the  trees  beside  us ;  and  next  moment  I  heard  the  voices  of  both,  for 
the  lion  roared  and  the  leopard  shrieked  wildly  as  they  sprang  after  the 
dogs. 

At  length  their  boldness  increased ;  the  lion  chased  the  dogs  with 
angry  growls  within  twenty  yards  of  where  we  stood,  and  the  leopard 
actually  sprang  into  the  centre  of  my  larder  beside  the  fire,  and  was 
making  off  with  a  large  fragment  of  ribs,  when  the  dogs  went  gallantly 
at  him.  He  turned  upon  them,  and  so  terribly  lacerated  two  that  they 
soon  after  died  from  their  wounds.  We  now  snatched  up  large  flaming 
brands  from  the  fire,  and,  meeting  the  lion  as  he  advanced,  we  sent 
them  flying  in  his  face,  when  I  fancy  he  made  off.  I  feared  to  use  my 
rifle  lest  I  should  shoot  the  dogs.  The  horses  and  oxen,  although  much 
alarmed,  did  not  endeavour  to  break  loose,  being  still  very  much  fatigued 
from  the  hardships  they  had  undergone. 

On  the  morning  of  the  2nd  I  shot  a  koodoo,  which  antelope  seemed 
here  to  be  tolerably  abundant ;  and  about  midday,  as  I  sat  writing 
beneath  the  waggon,  I  observed  a  troop  of  zebras  approaching  the 
fountain,  followed  by  a  string  of  koodoos,  three  of  which  carried  un- 
usually fine  horns.  While  I  sat  looking  at  them  through  my  spyglass, 
I  directed  Euyter  to  bring  up  the  horses,  when  we  saddled  the  "  Grey*" 


DEATH    OF    THE     "OLD    GREY."  209 

and  the  "Chestnut  Pony,"  and  rode  slowly  towards  them,  till  they  started, 
when  we  gave  them  chase.  They  took  right  up  the  face  of  a  stony 
ridge,  and  as  they  disappeared  over  its  summit  the  Bushman  was  riding 
within  a  spear's  length  of  the  finest  buck. 

Before,  however,  I  could  gain  the  ridge,  the  "  Old  Grey  ''  refused  to 
proceed  farther,  when,  dismounting,  I  resumed  the  chase  on  foot,  but 
failed  to  fall  in  with  my  after-rider,  who  eventually  brought  the  koodoo 
to  a  stand.  Retracing  my  steps,  I  directed  my  attention  to  my  poor 
"  Old  Grey,"  which  was  evidently  attacked  with  the  African  distemper. 
With  considerable  difficulty  I  brought  him  to  the  camp,  where  I  instantly 
bled  him,  but  to  no  purpose,  and  in  another  hour  the  "gallant  grey"  lay 
down  and  "  stretched  his  stiff  limbs  to  rise  no  more."  At  night  the  lion 
feasted  on  the  body,  and  when  he  was  full  the  leopard  and  hysenas 
finished  it. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3rd  I  left  this  fountain  and  held  for  Booby, 
which  I  reached  at  midday  on  the  5th.  On  my  way  thither  we  one 
evening  fell  in  with  a  large  herd  of  elands,  out  of  which  I  captured  a 
first-rate  bull.  I  was  kindly  welcomed  by  Caachy,  now  the  chief  of 
Booby,  the  former  chief  having  been  blown  up  in  my  absence  as  already 
mentioned.  Caachy  informed  me  that  my  runaway  Hottentots  had 
reached  his  kraal,  and  were  very  much  exhausted  by  their  march.  He 
had  assisted  them  with  corn,  and  passed  them  on  to  Bakatla.  They 
informed  this  chief  that  I  had  dismissed  them  from  my  service,  having 
engaged  other  servants  at  Bamangwato. 

I  remained  at  Booby  till  midday  on  the  7th,  and  obtained  several  very 
fine  karosses  and  other  native  curiosities  in  barter  from  the  tribe.  The 
king  supplied  me  liberally  with  boyalwa,  or  native  beer,  which  I  thought 
most  excellent,  but  found  that  it  possessed  a  soporific  tendency,  inducing 
me  on  one  occasion  to  lie  down  and  sleep  for  half  the  day  while  the 
king  and  his  nobility  were  waiting  to  trade  with  me.  A  large  body  of 
the  natives  accompanied  me  from  Booby,  some  of  them  leading  pack- 
oxen  which  were  sent  by  Caachy  to  convey  the  venison  of  sundry 
rhinoceroses  which  I  engaged  to  shoot  for  him.  These  men  led  me 
towards  Bakatla  by  a  different  route  from  that  which  I  had  formerly 
adopted. 

Early  on  the  13th,  while  taking  coffee,  I  was  met  by  a  party  from 
Bakatla  who  had  been  kindly  depatched  by  Dr.  Livingstone,  the  resident 
missionary,  on  hearing  of  my  abandonment  by  my  colonial  servants. 
The  party  consisted  of  a  Bechuana,  named  Mabal,  belonging  to  Kuruman 
(who  assisted  Dr.  Livingstone  in  teaching  the  children  of  the  Bakatlas), 
and  three  of  the  Bakatla  tribe.  These  men  reached  me  just  at  the 
proper  moment ;  for,  having  inspanned,  before  we  had  proceeded  three 
hundred  yards  the  damaged  axletree  broke  short  across,  and  the  wheel 
rolling  away  the  waggon  came  down  on  its  side.  This  was  a  catastrophe 
I  had  for  some  time  anticipated,  and  I  was  only  thankful  that  it  had 
been  deferred  so  long.  We  outspanned,  and,  having  unloaded  the 
waggon,  we  put  a  support  under  it,  and  took  out  the  forestell,  and  I 
then  set  about  making  a  false  axletree  of  tough  thorn-wood.  The  verti- 
cal sun  was  extremely  powerful,  and  both  my  ankles  gave  me  severe 


210  HUNTING  AND   SPOETING  ADVENTURES. 


and  never-ceasing  pain  from  wounds  inflicted  by  the  cruel  wait-a-bits 
and  inflammation  induced  by  the  unvarying  animal  diet  on  which  I  had 
so  long  subsisted.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day  I  got  the  false 
axletree  fixed  in  its  proper  position,  and  having  loaded  up  the  waggon 
we  were  once  more  ready  for  a  start. 

On  the  15th  we  inspanned,  and,  having  passed  through  the  bold 
mountain  gorge  of  Sesetabie,  we  encamped  on  the  margin  of  a  periodical 
river  whose  precipitous  banks  and  broad  channel  of  deep  soft  sand 
caused  me  considerable  apprehensions  of  difficulties  for  the  morrow. 

On  the  16th  I  unlashed  my  spades  and  pickaxe,  and  worked  hard  for 
several  hours  cutting  down  the  precipitous  banks  of  the  river  and  con- 
structing a  road  for  the  waggons  to  pass ;  after  which  we  inspanned 
and  took  the  stream.  I  drove  my  waggon  safely  through ;  but,  alas  ! 
not  so  with  the  baggage-waggon.  Twice  it  stuck  fast  in  the  treacherous 
sand  while  crossing  the  river's  bed,  but  the  sturdy  oxen  pulled  it  out, 
and  had  dragged  it  more  than  half-way  up  the  almost  perpendicular 
bank,  when  the  native  who  led  the  long  team,  unmindful  that  a  waggon 
was  behind  them,  suddenly  turned  the  leading  oxen  short  towards  the 
river's  bank,  thus  rendering  it  impossible  for  the  driver  to  steer  his 
after-oxen.  The  waggon  was  dragged  off  the  fine  road  which  I  had 
made  for  it,  and  after  quivering  for  a  moment  as  if  loth  to  meet  its  fate, 
it  fell  heavily  over  and  rolled  down  the  bank  with  a  most  terrific  crash, 
smashing  the  fine  capped  tent,  and  sending  the  ivory  and  all  my  highly- 
valued  trophies  flying  into  the  bed  of  the  river  in  a  mass  of  the  most 
dire  confusion. 

This  was  enough  to  vex  any  man,  but  I  had  now  become  so  seasoned 
to  adversity  that  I  only  laughed  at  the  capsize  as  though  the  accident 
had  happened  to  a  foe ;  and  having  unyoked  the  oxen,  we  commenced 
carrying  the  heavy  ivory  and  other  articles  up  the  bank  to  the  level 
ground  beyond  ;  after  which  we  righted  the  waggon,  and  a  team  of  oxen 
dragged  it  up  the  bank.  I  then  set  to  work  to  repair  the  tent  with 
green  boughs,  and  before  sunset  we  had  again  replaced  the  greater  part 
of  the  cargo.  As  the  sun  went  down  "  The  Cow  "  died  from  the  dis- 
temper which  had  carried  off  my  other  two  horses.  The  night  set  in 
with  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain  ;  jackals  and  hyaenas  prowled  around 
us,  and  soon  found  the  remains  of  my  lamented  charger,  on  which  they 
feasted  till  the  dawn  of  day. 

The  17th  ushered  in  a  lovely  morning,  and  the  sky  was  beautifully 
overcast  with  clouds.  When  I  got  things  dry  I  finished  stowing  the 
waggon,  and  we  then  trekked,  holding  on  till  the  evening,  when  the 
axle-tree  which  I  had  made  burst,  and  the  linchpin  giving  way  the 
wheel  rolled  off,  leaving  me  once  more  a  wreck.  While  securing  my 
few  remaining  horses,  I  remarked  that  a  handsome  little  bay  horse, 
named  "  Hutton,"  evinced  symptoms  of  the  distemper,  but  I  did  not 
bleed  him,  as  it  seemed  to  be  of  no  avail.  Heavy  rain  continned  falling 
throughout  the  night,  and  next  morning  the  ground  where  we  had  out- 
spanned  was  a  mass  of  deep  mud. 

At  an  early  hour  all  hands  were  busy  in  again  unloading  the  broken 
waggon,  and  before  night  I  had  finished  another  axletree  and  fixed  it  in 


ON    THE    MARCH.  211 


its  place.  The  day  throughout  was  dark  and  gloomy — heavy  clouds 
hung  low  on  the  mountain  of  the  eagles,  reminding  me  of  the  mist  I 
was  wont  to  see  in  the  distant  country  of  the  Gael,  and  our  ears  were 
repeatedly  saluted  with  the  subdued  voices  of  a  troop  of  lions  which 
were  moaning  in  concert  around  its  base.  In  the  evening  the  horse 
called  "  Hutton  "  died,  and  scarcely  had  night  set  in  when  his  doleful 
coronach  was  wildly  re-echoed  by  the  shrill  voices  of  a  score  of  jackals, 
which  the  lions  hearing  soon  came  to  their  assistance,  and  presently  we 
heard  them  feasting  on  his  remains. 

On  the  morning  of  the  1 9th  we  resumed  our  march,  and  at  a  late  hour 
on  the  evening  of  the  20th  we  reached  the  missionary  station  at  Bakatla, 
where  I  was  kindly  received  by  Dr.  Livingstone  and  his  amiable  lady. 
They  had  been  anxious  concerning  my  fate,  and  entertained  great  appre- 
hensions for  my  safety.  Mrs.  Livingstone  had  seen  my  Hottentots  as 
they  passed  through  Bakatla,  where  they  remained  only  one  day  ;  and 
that  lady  represented  them  as  bearing  the  appearance  of  men  who  had 
been  guilty  of  crime.  She  had  endeavoured,  but  without  success,  to 
prevail  upon  them  to  rejoin  their  master  and  return  to  their  duty.  Dr. 
Livingstone  at  the  time  was  absent  on  a  visit  to  Sichely,  superintending 
the  erection  of  a  dwelling-house  and  place  of  public  worship  at  that 
chief's  kraal,  named  "  Ohouaney,"  whither  he  intended  shortly  to  re- 
move, there  being  another  missionary,  named  Mr.  Edwards,  already 
stationed  at  Bakatla,  who  was  then  absent  on  a  visit  to  the  colony.  Dr. 
Livingstone  informed  me  that  at  present  there  was  war  between  the 
Baquaines,  of  whom  Sichely  is  chief,  and  the  Bakatlas,  and  that  the 
latter  were  in  daily  expectation  of  an  attack. 

The  23rd  was  Sunday,  when  Dr.  Livingstone  showed  me,  on  com- 
paring notes,  that  I  had  lost  a  day  during  my  sojourn  in  the  far  interior. 
I  attended  Divine  service,  and  had  considerable  difficulty  to  maintain 
my  gravity  as  sundry  members  of  the  congregation  entered  the  church 
clad  in  the  most  unique  apparel.  Some  of  these  wore  extraordinary  old 
hats  ornamented  with  fragments  of  women's  clothes  and  ostrich-feathers. 
These  fine  hats  they  were  very  reluctant  to  take  off,  and  one  man  sat  with 
his  beaver  on  immediately  before  the  minister  until  the  doorkeeper  went 
up  to  him  and  ordered  him  to  remove  it.  At  dinner  we  had  a  variety 
of  excellent  vegetables,  the  garden  producing  almost  every  sort  in  great 
perfection  ;  the  potatoes  in  particular  were  very  fine.  To-day  another 
of  my  stud,  named  Yarborough  (so  called  in  honour  of  a  gallant  major 
of  the  91st  from  whom  I  purchased  him),  died  of  the  distemper,  and  was 
immediately  consumed  by  the  starving  curs  of  the  Bakatlas.  Being 
anxious  to  visit  Sichely  and  his  tribe,  Dr.  Livingstone  and  I  resolved 
to  leave  Bakatla  and  march  upon  Chouaney  with  one  of  my  waggons  on ' 
the  ensuing  day  ;  the  Doctor's  object  being  to  establish  peace  between 
the  two  tribes,  and  mine  to  enrich  myself  with  ivory  and  karosses  and 
other  objects  of  interest. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  I  off-loaded  the  baggage  waggon,  and 
stowed  its  contents  in  Dr.  Livingstone's  premises,  after  which  the  Doctor 
and  I  started  for  Chouaney,  which  bore  a  little  to  the  east  of  north. 
Our  road  lay   through  the  most  perfect  country.      On  clearing  the 


212    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

romantic  valley  of  Bakatla  we  descended  into  another  beautiful  valley, 
through  which  meandered  the  crystal  waters  of  the  Ngotwani,  an 
interesting  stream,  which,  flowing  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  falls  into 
the  Limpopo  about  sixty  miles  below  its  junction  with  the  Mariqua. 
The  Ngotwani  contains  several  varieties  of  fish,  which  are  of  good 
flavour,  and  afford  the  angler  steady  average  sport  both  with  bait  and 
fly.  After  following  some  distance  along  the  finely-wooded  banks  of  the 
Ngotwani,  and  having  twice  crossed  its  stream,  we  entered  upon  an  ex- 
tensive open  tract  of  country  adorned  with  a  carpet  of  the  most 
luxuriant  herbage. 

This  interesting  plain  was  beautifully  wooded  towards  the  mountain 
,  ranges  which  bound  it  on  every  side,  and  the  Ngotwani  twined  in  a 
serpentine  course  along  the  middle  of  it,  forming  in  one  part  an  exten- 
sive vley  or  marsh  about  four  miles  long  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
breadth.  This  vley  was  now  beautified  with  a  dense  crop  of  waving 
green  reeds,  averaging  about  fourteen  feet  in  height,  and  forming  a 
favourite  resort  of  buffaloes  and  their  invariable  attendants  the  lions. 
Dr.  Livingstone  told  me  that  a  party  of  Baquaines  were  to  leave 
Ohouaney  on  the  ensuing  day  to  visit  this  vley,  for  the  purpose  of 
cutting  a  supply  of  the  long  rank  reeds  with  which  to  thatch  his  new 
church  and  dwelling-house ;  and  he  said  that  he  should  wish  me,  if 
opportunity  presented  itself,  to  shoot  some  large  game  on  which  these 
men  might  feed. 

We  were  marching  quietly  along  and  were  nearly  opposite  the  centre 
of  the  reeds,  when,  on  emerging  from  a  grove  of  thorny  mokala  trees, 
casting  our  eyes  to  the  right,  we  suddenly  beheld  a  numerous  herd  of 
buffaloes  grazing  on  the  open  plain  betwixt  us  and  the  vley.  Their 
dark  imposing  squadrons  extended  over  a  great  space  of  ground,  and 
we  reckoned  that  there  might  have  been  between  six  and  eight  hundred 
of  them.  I  immediately  saddled  "  Sunday,"  and  rode  towards  them. 
As  I  drew  near  they  stood  gazing  at  me  for  a  minute,  and  then,  panic- 
stricken,  the  whole  herd  started  off  together,  making  for  the  nearest 
wood. 

Pressing  my  horse,  I  was  soon  ahead  of  them,  and  by  shouting  I 
turned  them  right  about,  when  they  thundered  along  in  a  compressed 
mass,  and  held  for  the  reeds.  Their  amazing  numbers  greatly  impeded 
their  progress,  and  I  had  no  difficulty  in  keeping  alongside  of  them.  I 
kept  on  their  right  flank  to  enable  me  more  conveniently  to  fire,  and  on 
one  occasion,  on  my  riding  very  near  the  foremost  of  the  herd,  a  large 
division  of  those  behind  me  suddenly  extended  to  the  right  and  increased 
their  pace,  and,  on  looking  over  my  shoulder,  I  found  myself  almost 
surrounded  by  their  helmeted  squadrons.  As  I  galloped  along  I 
endeavoured  to  select  the  finest  head,  but  among  so  many  it  was  no 
easy  matter  to  make  a  choice,  and  as  soon  as  I  selected  one  he  disappeared 
among  the  ranks  of  his  companions.  At  length,  riding  at  the  gallop,  I 
let  fly  right  and  left  into  the  herd,  and  next  moment  they  had  gained 
the  margin  of  the  lofty  reeds. 

Here  the  whole  herd  suddenly  halted  and  faced  about  with  the 
regularity  and  precision  of  a  regiment  of  cavalry,  when,  having  over- 


A    HEED    OF    BUFFALOES.  213 


hauled  me  for  half  a  minute,  they  charged  headlong  into  the  soft  muddy 
vley,  and  in  another  moment  they  were  hidden  from  my  view.  I 
marked  the  reeds  bowing  before  them  far  on  my  right  and  left  as  they 
splashed  and  struggled  through  the  marshy  vley,  and  presently  they 
gained  the  other  side,  when,  emerging  from  the  reeds,  they  held  across 
the  open  plain,  steering  for  their  strongholds  in  the  woods  beyond. 
As  the  clouds  of  dust  behind  me  cleared  away,  I  looked  back  and  beheld 
a  fine  old  cow  stagger  for  a  moment  and  then  fall  dead,  and  near  her 
stood  a  wounded  calf,  whose  mother  had  remained  beside  it,  being  loth 
to  leave  her  offspring. 

I  now  returned  to  Dr.  Livingstone,  when  we  brought  up  the  waggon 
for  the  fallen  buffaloes,  and  halted  for  the  night.  Just  as  we  had  out- 
spanned,  a  blue  wildebeest,  having  observed  the  oxen,  and  taking  them 
for  buffaloes,  fearlessly  approached  the  waggon,  when,  advancing  under 
cover  of  one  of  the  oxen,  I  bowled  him  over  with  my  rifle.  Early  on 
the  following  morning  the  reed-cutters  from  Chouaney  hove  in  sight, 
and  were  not  a  little  gratified  to  find  so  bountiful  a  supply  of  their 
favourite  "niama,"  or  flesh,  awaiting  their  arrival.  The  afternoon  was 
cold  and  rainy,  and  at  a  late  hour  we  outspanned  at  Chouaney,  where 
we  were  immediately  welcomed  by  a  messenger  from  Sichely,  who 
expressed  himself  highly  gratified  at  our  arrival  and  promised  to  come 
and  breakfast  with  me  next  morning. 


CHAPTEE  XX. 


Arrive  at  Sichely 's  Kraal — Description  of  that  Chief — His  Wives — The  Rain- 
makers— My  Gun  Medicine — Bakatla — A  Kraal  struck  by  Lightning — Reach  Mr. 
Moffat's  Station  at  Kuruman — Daring  Robberies  of  the  Bushmen — Campbells- 
dorp — Discover  my  runaway  Hottentots — We  cross  the  Vaal — The  Inmates  of  a 
Farm  terrified  bjT  my  wild  Appearance — Colesberg  and  Grahamstown — English 
Hounds  in  Africa. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  26  th  of  November  Sichely  presented  himself 
with  a  large  retinue.  The  appearance  of  this  chief  was  prepossessing, 
and  his  manner  was  civil  and  engaging ;  his  stature  was  about  five  feet 
ten  inches,  and  in  his  person  he  inclined  to  corpulency.  His  dress  con- 
sisted of  a  handsome  leopard-skin  kaross,  and  on  his  arms  and  legs, 
which  were  stout  and  well  turned,  he  wore  a  profusion  of  brass  and 
copper  ornaments  manufactured  by  tribes  residing  a  long  way  to  the 
eastward.  In  the  forenoon  I  accompanied  Sichely  to  his  kraal  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  alongside  of  it  stood  respectively  the 
kraals  of  his  wives,  which  were  five  in  number.  These  kraals  were 
neatly  built,  and  were  of  a  circular  form,  the  walls  and  floors  being 
smoothly  plastered  with  a  composition  of  clay  and  cow-dung,  and  secured 
from  the  weather  by  a  firm  and  well-constructed  thatch  of  long  dry 
grass.  Each  kraal  was  surrounded  by  an  area  enclosed  with  a  strong 
impenetrable  fence  six  feet  in  height.  The  town  was  built  on  a  gentle 
slope  on  the  northern  side  of  a  broad  extensive  strath,  throughout  the 


214    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


whole  extent  of  which  lay  wide  fields  and  gardens  enclosed  with  hedges 
of  the  wait-a-bits. 

A  short  time  previous  to  my  arrival,  a  rumour  having  reached  Sichely 
that  he  was  likely  to  be  attacked  by  the  emigrant  Boers,  he  suddenly 
resolved  to  secure  his  city  with  a  wall  of  stones,  which  he  at  once  com- 
menced erecting.  It  was  now  completed,  entirely  surrounding  the  town, 
with  loopholes  at  intervals  all  along  through  which  to  play  upon  the  ad- 
vancing enemy  with  the  muskets  which  he  had  resolved  to  purchase 
from  hunters  and  traders  like  myself. 

I  was  duly  introduced  to  the  five  queens,  each  of  whose  wigwams  I 
visited  in  succession.  These  ladies  were  of  goodly  stature  and  comely 
in  their  appearance ;  they  all  possessed  a  choice  assortment  of  very  fine 
karosses  of  various  descriptions,  and  their  persons  were  adorned  with  a 
profusion  of  ornaments  of  beads  and  brass  and  copper  wire.  Sichely 
professed  and  was  believed  by  his  tribe  to  be  a  skilful  rainmaker,  viz. 
one  having  the  power  of  creating  rain  when  required  for  the  fields  and 
gardens. 

The  rainmaker's  art  is  a  regular  profession  among  the  Bechuanas,  and 
the  individuals  who  practise  it  are  much  esteemed  and  highly  venerated 
among  their  fellow-men.  They  are  supposed  to  work  by  supernatural 
agency  ;  and  acting  probably  on  the  general  principle  that  a  prophet  is 
not  without  honour  save  in  his  own  country,  they  invariably  practise 
their  arts  amongst  tribes  remote  from  their  own  particular  districts. 
Their  birth  and  original  place  of  residence  are  always  involved  in  mys- 
tery, and  they  pretend  to  have  been  suddenly  created  in  some  lonely 
cave,  or  on  the  summit  of  a  mountain,  from  which  they  came  in  a  state 
of  manhood  without  undergoing  the  usual  ordeal  of  birth.  Some  of 
these  rainmakers  attain  to  much  higher  reputation  than  their  fellow 
necromancers  :  an  illustrious  character  of  this  description  is  much  sought 
after,  and  is  often  sent  for  from  an  amazing  distance  by  a  chief  on  whose 
dominions .  the  periodical  thunderstorms  (which  are  often  very  partial) 
have  failed  to  descend. 

The  modes  in  which  they  propitiate  the  clouds  are  various.  The  one 
most  commonly  practised  is,  by  collecting  a  few  leaves  of  each  individual 
variety  of  tree  in  the  forest,  which  they  allow  to  simmer  in  large  pots 
over  a  slow  fire,  and,  while  a  sheep  is  killed  by  pricking  it  in  the  heart 
with  a  "  lemue  "  or  long  sewing-needle,  the  rainmaker  is  employed  in 
performing  a  variety  of  absurd  incantations.  The  steam  arising  from 
the  simmering  leaves  is  supposed  to  reach  and  propitiate  the  clouds,  and 
the  remainder  of  the  day  is  spent  in  dances  which  are  joined  in  by  all 
the  tribe  and  kept  up  till  midnight,  being  accompanied  with  songs 
having  a  long-continued  chorus  in  which  all  join,  and  the  burden  of 
which  is  the  power  and  praises  of  the  rainmaker.  It  often,  however, 
happens  that  the  relentless  clouds  decline  attending  to  the  solicitations 
of  the  rainmaker,  and  the  fields  of  young  corn  become  parched  and 
withered. 

Other  schemes  are  then  resorted  to.  A  number  of  the  young  men 
sally  forth,  and,  forming  an  extensive  circle,  they  enclose  the  rocky  face 
of  some  mountain-side  in  which  the  rock-loving  klipspringer  is  likely 


GUN-MEDICINE.  215 

to  be  met  with,  when,  by  gradually  contracting  their  circle  like  our 
Highlanders  of  old,  they  generally  manage  to  catch  alive  sundry  klip- 
springers,  whose  voices  are  supposed  to  attract  rain.  The  unfortunate 
little  antelopes  thus  captured  are  paraded  round  the  kraal,  while  the 
rainmaker,  by  pinching  and  tormenting  them,  induces  them  to  scream. 
But  as  it  often  happens  that  these  and  his  other  machinations  prove 
unavailing,  the  rainmaker  is  at  times  obliged  eventually  to  make  a 
moonlight  flitting  and  cut  and  run  for  it,  when  the  services  of  another 
of  the  fraternity  are  courted. 

When  the  rainmakers  fail  to  fulfil  their  promises  they  always  ascribe 
their  want  of  success  to  the  presence  of  some  mysterious  agency  which 
has  destroyed  the  effect  of  their  otherwise  infallible  nostrums.  One  of 
these  anti-rainmaking  articles  is  ivory,  which  is  believed  to  have  great 
influence  in  driving  away  rain,  in  consequence  of  which,  in  the  summer 
season,  they  produce  it  only  as  the  sun  goes  down,  at  which  time  it  is 
brought  for  the  trader's  inspection  carefully  wrapped  up  in  a  kaross.  I 
remember  on  one  occasion  incurring  the  censure  of  a  whole  tribe,  who 
firmly  believed  me  to  have  frightened  the  rain  from  their  dominions  by 
exposing  a  quantity  of  ivory  at  noonday  ;  and .  on  another  occasion  the 
chief  of  a  certain  tribe  commanded  a  missionary  with  whom  I  am 
acquainted  to  remove  all  the  rafters  from  the  roof  of  his  house,  these 
having  been  pointed  out  by  the  rainmaker  as  obstructing  the  success  of 
his  incantations. 

The  Griquas,  taking  advantage  of  the  superstitions  of  the  Bechuanas, 
often  practise  on  their  credulity,  and,  a  short  time  before  I  visited 
Sichely,  a  party  of  Griquas  who  were  hunting  in  his  territory  had 
obtained  from  him  several  valuable  karosses  in  barter  for  a  little  sulphur, 
which  they  represented  as  a  most  effectual  medicine  for  guns,  having 
assured  Sichely  that  by  rubbing  a  small  quantity  on  their  hands  before 
proceeding  to  the  field  they  would  assuredly  obtain  the  animal  they 
hunted. 

It  happened  in  the  course  of  my  converse  with  the  chief  that  the 
subject  turned  on  ball  practice,  when,  probably  relying  on  the  power  of 
his  medicine,  the  king  challenged  me  to  shoot  against  him  for  a  con- 
siderable wager,  stipulating  at  the  same  time  that  his  three  brothers 
were  to  be  permitted  to  assist  him  in  the  competition.  The  king  staked 
a  couple  of  valuable  karosses  against  a  large  measure  filled  with  my 
gunpowder,  and  we  then  at  once  proceeded  to  the  waggon,  where  the 
match  was  to  come  off,  followed  by  a  number  of  the  tribe.  Whilst 
Sichely  was  loading  his  gun,  I  repaired  to  the  fore-chest  of  the  waggon, 
where,  observing  that  I  was  watched  by  several  of  the  natives,  I  pro- 
ceeded to  rub  my  hands  with  sulphur,  which  was  instantly  reported  to 
the  chief,  who  directly  joined  me,  and,  clapping  me  on  the  back, 
entreated  me  to  give  him  a  little  of  my  medicine  for  his  gun,  which  I  of 
course  told  him  he  must  purchase.  Our  target  being  set  up,  we  commenced 
firing;  it  was  a  small  piece  of  wood  six  inches  long  by  four  in  breadth,  and 
was  placed  on  the  stump  of  a  tree  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  paces. 
Sichely  fired  the  first  shot,  and  very  naturally  missed  it,  upon  which  I 
let  fly  and  split  it  through  the  middle.     It  was  then  set  up  again,  when 


216    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

Sichely  and  his  brothers  continued  firing,  without  one  touching  it,  till 
night  setting  in  put  an  end  to  their  proceedings.  This  of  course  was 
solely  attributed  by  all  present  to  the  power  of  the  medicine  I  had  used. 

When  Dr.  Livingstone  was  informed  of  the  circumstance  he  was  very 
much  shocked,  declaring  that  in  future  the  natives  would  fail  to  believe 
him  when  he  denounced  supernatural  agency,  having  now  seen  it 
practised  by  his  own  countryman.  I  obtained  several  very  fine  karosses, 
as  also  ivory,  ostrich-feathers,  and  sundry  interesting  curiosities,  in 
barter  from  Sichely  and  his  tribe ;  and  at  noon  on  the  27th  we  took 
leave  of  Sichely  and  started  for  Bakatla.  In  the  evening  of  the  following 
day  I  lost  another  horse  of  the  distemper  :  it  was  the  "  Immense 
Brute; "  and  next  morning  the  chesnut  pony  also  died.  About  midnight 
an  immense  herd  of  buffaloes  came  feeding  slowly  towards  us,  and, 
imagining  our  oxen  to  belong  to  their  own  party,  they  continued  to 
advance  until  we  were  actually  surrounded  by  them.  I  then  arose  in 
my  sleep,  and,  having  remarked  in  Sichuana  to  the  natives  that  the 
buffaloes  were  very  good,  I  once  more  lay  down,  utterly  unconscious  of 
what  I  had  done  or  spoken. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  29th  we  outspanned  at  Bakatla.  A  party  of 
Baralongs  were  then  on  a  visit  to  Mosielely  on  a  trading  excursion  for 
skins  for  the  manufacture  of  karosses.  The  head-quarters  of  these  men 
was  situated  to  the  westward  of  Motito,  on  the  borders  of  the  great 
Kalahari  desert.  Night  set  in  with  a  terrific  thunderstorm,  which  pre- 
vailed for  several  hours  :  the  lightning  was  most  painful  to  the  eyes, 
and  deafening  peals  of  thunder  continually  burst  above  and  around  us. 
From  the  proximity  of  the  explosions  we  entertained  considerable  fears 
for  the  safety  of  the  natives  in  the  town,  for  the  lightning  appeared 
repeatedly  to  strike  in  that  direction  ;  and  when  the  storm  had  subsided, 
a  messenger  from  the  king  came  down  to  the  missionary's  dwelling- 
house  to  report  that  the  kraal  occupied  by  the  six  strangers  had  been 
struck  by  the  electric  fluid,  and  that  one  of  them  was  killed  on  the  spot, 
and  the  other  five  were  more  or  less  affected  by  the  shock.  Dr.  Living- 
stone informed  me  that  this  melancholy  event  would  entail  great  alarm 
and  uneasiness  upon  Mosielely,  since  all  the  tribes  would  blame  him  for 
the  accident. 

The  following  day  was  Sunday,  and  in  the  forenoon  Dr.  Livingstone 
and  I  visited  Mosielely,  and  inspected  the  kraal  that  had  been  struck  by 
lightning.  We  found  the  natives  engaged  in  the  most  absurd  idolatrous 
rites  to  cleanse  the  kraal  and  the  survivors  from  the  effects  of  the 
electricity.  Unlike  the  Romans  of  old,  these  five  individuals  did  not 
consider  themselves  honoured  by  the  partiality  which  the  lightning  had 
evinced  for  them  ;  huddled  together,  we  found  them  lying  speechless 
and  terrified  upon  the  ground,  their  hearts  having  died  within  them. 
On  the  1st  of  December,  with  Dr.  Livingstone's  kind  assistance,  I  com- 
menced making  a  new  axletree  for  the  waggon,  and  by  the  evening  of 
that  day  week  we  had  completed  a  good,  substantial  axletree  of 
seasoned  hard  wood,  mounted  with  iron  skeins,  and  secured  it  in  its 
place. 

The  greatest  difficulty  we  encountered  in  the  accomplishment  of  our 


BUSHMEN'S    OAVES.  217 

work  was  in  welding  the  iron  skeins  and  fixing  them  in  their  proper 
places.  During  my  stay  at  Bakatla  I  traded  extensively  with  the 
natives,  and  obtained  from  them  a  number  of  karosses  and  various 
curiosities  and  articles  of  interest.  It  was  the  heat  of  summer,  and  the 
sun  at  noon  was  extremely  overpowering ;  the  atmosphere,  however, 
was  occasionally  refreshed  by  thunderstorms,  accompanied  with  grateful 
showers  of  rain,  which,  of  course,  was  attributed  to  the  power  of  the 
rainmaker,  and  the  vale  rang  nightly  with  loud  and  joyous  songs,  re- 
echoing his  praises  in  a  prolonged  chorus.  Before  leaving  Bakatla  my 
horse  "  Sunday  "  died  of  the  distemper,  which  reduced  my  stud  from 
ten  to  two ;  and,  before  dismissing  this  subject,  I  may  mention  that  I 
managed  to  save  these  two  from  the  distemper,  and  succeeded  in  bringing 
them  back  to  the  colony,  by  preventing  them  from  eating  grass  and  by 
keeping  them  covered  at  night  with  blankets. 

On  the  11th  I  took  leave  of  my  kind  host  Dr.  Livingstone,  and,  after 
a  steady  march  of  many  days,  on  the  2nd  of  January  I  reached  Kuru- 
man,  where  I  was  entertained  by  Mr.  Moffat  with  his  usual  kindness 
and  hospitality.  The  following  day  was  Sunday,  when  I  attended 
Divine  service  in  the  large  church  morning  and  evening,  and  saw  sixteen 
men  and  women  who  had  embraced  the  Christian  faith  baptized  by  Mr. 
Moffat.  It  was  now  the  fruit  season,  and  the  trees  in  the  gardens  of  the 
missionaries  were  groaning  under  a  burden  of  the  most  delicious  peaches, 
figs,  and  apples.  The  vines  bore  goodly  clusters  of  grapes,  but  these 
had  not  yet  ripened.  My  runaway  Hottentots  had  passed  through 
Kuruman  some  time  previous  to  my  arrival,  and  it  was  reported  that 
disease  had  overtaken  them  at  the  missionary  station  of  Oampbellsdorp, 
where  they  were  now  all  four  stretched  upon  a  bed  of  sickness,  and  in  a 
state  of  the  most  abject  want  and  misery.  Isaac  had  likewise  made  his 
appearance  in  due  course,  and  he  now  came  boldly  forward  to  claim  his 
wages,  which  I  honestly  paid  him.  I  left  in  Mr.  Moffat's  kind  keeping 
one  of  the  waggons  with  its  contents  (which  we  stowed  away  in  a  room 
obligingly  lent  me  by  Mr.  Moffat  for  the  purpose),  and  also  the  whole 
of  my  oxen,  with  the  exception  of  one  span,  with  which,  on  the  evening 
of  the  7th,  I  set  out  for  Koning,  which  I  reached  at  an  early  hour  on  the 
following  morning,  having  marched  during  the  greater  portion  of  the 
night. 

Leaving  Koning  on  the  afternoon  of  the  8th,  I  resumed  my  march  for 
Daniel's-kuil.  Between  Koning  and  Daniel's-kuil  occur  two  interesting 
caves,  long  famous  as  affording  a  residence  and  protection  to  hordes  of 
marauding  Bushmen.  The  larger  of  these  caves  is  situated  on  the  west 
side  of  the  waggon-track ;  it  is  of  great  size,  and  contains  a  perpetual 
fountain  of  delicious  water,  and  its  sides  have  been  adorned  by  its  Lilli- 
putian inhabitants  with  correct  likenesses  of  most  of  the  game  quad- 
rupeds of  Africa,  as  also  unicorns,  which  of  course  they  never  saw,  and 
must  therefore  have  heard  spoken  of  by  other  men.  From  this  cave  the 
Bushmen  were  wont  to  sally  forth  not  very  long  since  and  lift  fat  cattle 
from  the  sleek  herds  of  their  more  industrious  neighbours  the  Griquas 
and  Bechuanas. 

Returning  with  these  cattle,  their  custom  was  to  drive  them  all  into 


218  HUNTING  AND   SPOBTING  ADYENTUEES. 

the  cave,  whence,  being  well  supplied  with  water,  they  did  not  again 
proceed  until  the  flesh  was  either  rotten  or  consumed.  It  was  in  vain 
that  the  exasperated  owners  of  the  cattle  followed  on  their  traces  to  the 
Bushman-cave,  for  here  they  well  knew  it  was  madness  to  follow  farther, 
as  inevitable  death  would  be  the  result,  by  the  poisoned  arrows  of  their 
subtle  foes  within.  At  length  the  Bushmen  became  so  frequent  and 
daring  in  their  attacks,  that  a  number  of  the  Bechuanas  held  "  a  great 
talk  "  on  the  subject  (as  they  say  in  America),  and  ended  by  resolving 
to  attack  the  Bushmen,  and  accomplish  their  destruction  at  whatever 
cost. 

Accordingly,  when  the  next  robbery  was  committed,  the  Bechuanas 
marched  upon  the  Bushman-cave,  armed  with  large  oval  shields  and 
battle-axes  ;  and,  entering  the  cave,  they  steadily  advanced  under  cover 
of  their  shields,  while  the  Bushmen's  arrows  rattled  thick  upon  them 
like  a  storm  of  hail.  The  Bechuanas  thus  continued  to  advance  until 
they  came  to  close  quarters,  when  they  cut  them  down  with  their  battle- 
axes.  The  other  cave  is  situated  to  the  eastward  of  the  waggon-track ; 
here,  on  a  similar  occasion,  fire  was  made  use  of  to  smoke  out  the  Bush- 
men, when  those  who  escaped  death  by  suffocation  fell  by  the  battle- 
axes  and  assagais  of  their  foes  without. 

When  driven  to  extremity  the  Bushmen  are  extremely  plucky,  and 
show  fight  to  the  last.  In  the  year  1847,  a  Bechuana  chief,  named 
Assyabona,  who  is  nearly  related  to  Mahura,  despatched  a  strong  party 
of  his  tribe,  armed  with  guns  and  assagais,  to  accomplish  the  destruction 
of  a  strong  horde  of  wild  Bushmen,  whose  robberies  had  become  so 
daring  and  extensive  that  they  were  the  terror  of  all  who  dwelt  a  hun- 
dred miles  around  them.  On  this  occasion  a  great  number  of  Bushmen 
were  destroyed,  having  been  overtaken  in  open  ground.  One  deter- 
mined fellow,  having  hastily  collected  several  of  the  quivers  of  his  dying 
comrades,  which  were  full  of  poisoned  arrows,  ensconced  himself  within 
three  large  stones,  from  which  position  he  for  a  long  time  defied  the 
whole  hostile  array  of  Bechuanas,  shooting  two  of  them  dead  on  the 
spot,  and  wounding  a  number  of  others.  Though  continuing  gallantly 
to  defend  himself,  he  seemed  aware  that  he  could  not  possibly  escape  ; 
and  while  peppering  at  the  Bechuanas  and  upbraiding  them  with 
cowardice,  he  called  out  to  them,  that,  if  they  had  not  killed  his  brother 
(who  lay  dead  beside  him,  and  who  was  a  famous  marksman  among  his 
fellows),  it  would  have  gone  hard  with  them  that  day.  He  was  event- 
ually finished  with  a  shot  in  the  forehead  by  a  son  of  Mahura,  chief  of 
the  Batlapis,  as  he  was  in  the  act  of  discharging  one  of  his  diminutive 
yet  deadly  shafts. 

On  the  10th  I  marched  from  Daniel's-kuil,  and  early  on  the  12th  I 
encamped  at  Campbellsdorp  where  I  found  Mr.  Bartlett  and  Captain 
Cornelius  Kok  in  great  force.  Here  I  at  length  overtook  my  runaway 
Hottentots.  Sickness  and  starvation  had  done  their  work  upon  them, 
and  they  were  so  altered  in  their  appearance  that  I  scarcely  knew  them. 
They  were  now  acting  as  servants  to  the  Griquas  who  had  nursed  them 
in  their  illness,  and  they  were  working  hard  to  earn  their  bread.  On 
inquiring  of  them  why  they  had  forsaken  me,  they  said  that  they  had 


MY    WILD    APPEARANCE.  219 


started  in  a  rash  and  thoughtless  moment,  and  that,  although  they 
almost  immediately  repented  the  step  they  had  taken,  fear  and  shame 
prevented  them  from  returning  to  their  duty. 

Commiserating  their  condition,  I  presented  them  with  the  amount  of 
their  wages  during  the  time  they  had  remained  with  me,  and,  being  now 
quite  independent  of  their  services,  I  allowed  them  to  remain  with  the 
masters  they  had  chosen.  I  here  met  an  extremely  plausible  individual, 
a  Dutchman,  from  the  Bo-land  or  Cape  district,  who  was  got  up  in  his 
rig  at  considerable  expense.  This  fellow  was  swindling  the  Griquas  right 
and  left,  purchasing  from  them  all  their  best  cattle  at  extravagant 
prices,  and  settling  for  them  with  paper  notes,  which  naturally  were 
forged.  He  represented  himself  as  being  one  of  a  wealthy  firm  in  Cape 
Town,  and  stated  that  two  of  his  partners  were  then  purchasing  cattle 
among  the  Boers  to  the  eastward,  from  whom  they  had  already  collected 
two  thousand  head  ;  which  cool  assertion  the  Griquas  were  silly  enough 
to  believe,  and  he  left  their  country  for  the  Bo-land  with  a  large  drove 
of  fat  oxen.  Eventually,  however,  he  was  brought  to  justice,  and  I 
afterwards  heard  of  his  being  safely  quartered  in  the  jail  of  Beaufort. 

At  a  late  hour  on  the  13th  I  outspanned  my  waggons  on  the  fragrant 
bank  of  the  lovely  Vaal  river  by  clear  moonlight,  and  on  the  morrow, 
the  water  being  then  fortunately  low,  I  crossed  the  river  with  little 
difficulty,  and  on  the  20th  I  took  the  drift  of  the  Great  Orange  River,  but 
with  very  faint  hopes  that  my  worn-out  oxen  would  succeed  in  dragging 
me  through  its  treacherous  sands,  more  especially  since  two  Boers  who 
had  crossed  an  hour  previous  had  deemed  it  necessary  to  inspan  sixteen 
tearing  well-conditioned  oxen  into  their  light  waggons.  I  was  right  in 
my  conjecture,  for  with  infinite  flogging  and  shouting  I  got  the  waggon 
half-way  through,  when  it  stuck  fast,  and  no  efforts  could  prevail  upon 
the  oxen  to  move  it  a  yard  farther.  A  Griqua  offered  to  lend  me  on 
hire  a  fresh  span  of  able-bodied  oxen,  when,  with  the  help  of  these  and 
some  of  my  best,  I  got  safely  through,  and  once  more  encamped  within 
Her  Majesty's  dominions.  While  the  waggon  was  sticking  in  the  middle 
of  the  river  a  Boer  took  the  drift  from  the  opposite  side  with  a  light 
new  waggon  and  twelve  superb  oxen,  which  bore  him  through  in  gallant 
style.  Resuming  my  march  for  Colesberg,  I  trekked  on  till  near  mid- 
night, when  I  lost  my  way  in  the  dark.  The  country  here  was  parched 
and  arid,  not  a  blade  of  grass  for  the  weary  oxen,  but  hopeless  sterility 
stretched  far  around. 

On  the  21st  I  left  the  Bushman  to  bring  on  the  waggon  while  I  walked 
ahead  under  a  most  terrific  sun  to  the  farm  where  I  had  purchased 
Prince  and  Bonteberg,  while  en  route  to  the  far  interior.  My  costume 
consisted  of  a  dilapidated  wide-awake  hat,  which  had  run  the  gauntlet 
with  many  a  grove  of  wait-a-bits,  a  dusty-looking  ragged  shirt,  and  a 
pair  of  still  more  ragged-looking  canvas  trousers,  which  were,  moreover, 
amputated,  above  the  knee,  while  my  face  was  adorned  with  a  shaggy 
red  beard,  which  tout  ensemble  imparted  to  me  the  appearance  of  one 
escaped  from  Bedlam.  As  I  drew  near  the  farm  its  inmates  took  fright 
at  my  wild  appearance,  and  two  of  the  Boers,  timidly  projecting  their 
heads  from  the  half-closed  door,  loudly  shouted  to  me  to  lay  down  my 


220    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

gun.  I  however  pretended  not  to  understand,  and  advancing  boldly  I 
wished  them  good  morning. 

One  of  these  was  the  owner  of  the  farm,  and  the  man  from  whom  I 
had  bought  the  dogs,  yet  nevertheless  he  failed  to  recognise  me.  He 
still  appeared  to  be  much  alarmed,  and  evidently  looked  upon  me  as  a 
dangerous  character  ;  but,  commiserating  the  transparent  texture  of  my 
continuations,  he  offered  to  lend  me  a  pair  of  leather  "  crackers."  De- 
clining the  proffered  apparel,  I  entered  the  house  without  ceremony, 
and  having  come  to  an  anchor  I  requested  some  milk.  Here  I  was 
immediately  recognised  by  the  children  as  "de  carle  wha  heb  vor 
Bonteberg  ha-quoch,;'  viz.,  the  man  that  bought  Bonteberg. 

On  the  26th  I  marched  at  dawn  of  day,  and  in  four  hours  I  entered 
the  village  of  Colesberg,  where  I  found  my  old  friends,  the  91st,  re- 
placed by  a  detachment  of  the  45th.  My  first  move  was  to  visit  the 
post-office,  where  I  was  very  much  disappointed  to  find  no  letters 
awaiting  my  arrival.  Having  off-loaded  my  waggon,  I  handed  it  over 
to  Mr.  Arnott,  the  resident  blacksmith,  to  undergo  repairs,  of  which  it 
stood  much  in  need.  My  Bechuana  followers  were  extremely  struck 
with  the  size  and  appearance  of  Colesberg,  and  the  movements  of  the 
military  elicited  their  unfeigned  delight  and  approbation.  On  the  28th 
the  village  of  Colesberg  was  enlightened  with  the  presence  of  Mr. 
Kleinboy,  who  arrived  with  waggons  from  Kuruman.  Having  sought 
me  out,  he  declared  himself  thoroughly  penitent  for  all  his  former  mis- 
demeanours, and,  expressing  a  wish  again  to  join  the  service,  I  re- 
enlisted  him. 

On  the  1st  of  February  I  left  Colesberg,  and  reached  Grahams  town 
on  the  forenoon  of  the  22nd,  when  I  took  up  my  residence  with  Captain 
Hogg  of  the  7th  Dragoon  Guards,  in  my  old  quarters  at  the  barracks  of 
the  Cape  Mounted  Rifles.  The  officers  of  the  7th  had  brought  out  with 
them  a  pack  of  fox-hounds,  which,  while  they  lasted,  afforded  excellent 
sport,  but  unfortunately  the  climate  of  Southern  Africa,  especially  near 
the  coast,  is  so  very  unfavourable  for  well-bred  English  dogs,  that, 
although  no  trouble  nor  expense  was  spared  in  the  management  of  these 
hounds,  and  fresh  drafts  were  constantly  exported  from  England,  and 
litters  of  pups  carefully  reared  in  the  colony,  the  pack  nevertheless  had 
considerably  diminished.  These  hounds  were  under  the  especial 
surveillance  of  Captain  Hogg,  who  hunted  them  in  a  manner  which 
evinced  his  consummate  skill  and  judgment  in  the  manly  and  ennobling 
pursuit  of  the  chase. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


Set  out  again  for  the  Far  Interior — Fort  Beaufort — Purchase  fresh  Steeds  and 
Oxen — My  old  servant  Corollus  rejoins  me — Elephant  Fountain  once  more — 
Hunt  Elephants — Corriebely — Obliged  to  act  very  decidedly  with  Sicomy— 
Horses  and  Oxen  taken  in  Pits— Two  Dogs  killed  by  a  Leopard — A  file  of 
Bakalahari  Women  carrying  water  to  the  Desert — A  sleeping  Rhinoceros  shot — 
Hunting  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lotlokane  and  Letlochee — The  Natives  kill  an 


PKEPAKHSTG    FOR    ANOTHER    CAMPAIGN.  221 


Elephant — A  grim  Lion  slain — Rheumatic  Fever  attacks  me — Leave  Bamang- 
wato  Country — The  Game  disturbed  by  Natives — Soobie — Watch  nightly  for 
Game  from  a  place  of  Ambush — Vanquish  a  noble  Lioness. 

I  CONTINUED  in  Grahamstown  until  the  7th  day  of  March,  when  I  set 
out  once  more  on  my  weary  journey  for  the  distant  forests  of  the  far 
interior.  Before  leaving  the  town  I  settled  my  accounts  with  the  mer- 
chants from  whom  I  had  obtained  supplies,  and  who  evidently  seemed 
to  consider  my  returning  to  the  colony  as  a  very  doubtful  event.  I  en- 
gaged a  discharged  soldier  of  the  91st,  named  George  Martin,  in  the 
capacity  of  head  servant.  This  man  hailed  from  Haddington,  and  bore 
an  excellent  character  on  leaving  the  regiment.  He  was  accustomed  to 
the  charge  of  horses,  in  which  he  took  a  great  interest. 

My  most  important  purchases  in  the  sporting  department  consisted  of 
a  valuable  double-barrelled  rifle,  with  spare  shot-barrels,  by  Westley 
Eichards,  which  I  obtained  from  Captain  Hogg ;  and  two  right  good 
steeds,  one  of  which  was  a  very  superior  coal-black  gelding,  which  I 
purchased  of  Captain  Walpole  of  the  Engineers  for  =£20,  which  was  con- 
siderably below  its  value.  I  named  this  horse  Black  Jack  ;  in  paces  and 
disposition  he  very  much  resembled  my  lamented  Colesberg,  and  he  was 
altogether  one  of  the  finest  horses  I  ever  mounted.  His  end  was  sudden 
and  severe  ;  for  on  a  subsequent  expedition,  along  with  another  of  my 
favourite  horses,  he  was  torn  to  pieces  and  consumed  by  a  troop  of 
ruthless  lions.  The  other  horse  which  I  purchased  was  a  grey  ;  and  as 
it  is  probable  that  this  horse  may  be  introduced  in  future  pages,  under 
the  designation  of  the  "  Old  Grey,"  I  trust  the  reader  will  not  be  con- 
founded with  the  idea  of  the  resurrection  of  the  original  "  Old  Grey." 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  I  reached  Fort  Beaufort,  when  I  en- 
camped at  the  mess-house  of  the  7th.  I  continued  there  until  the 
morning  of  the  15th,  when  I  ^resumed  my  march  for  the  interior.  In 
Fort  Beaufort  I  purchased  four  right  good  horses  from  the  officers  of 
the  garrison  ;  one  of  these  was  a  jet  black  steed,  and  was  named  by  his 
late  master  J3chwartland.  This  horse  was  one  of  the  finest  shooting- 
horses  in  Southern  Africa,  and  understood  his  work  so  well  that  he 
seemed  to  follow  the  game  with  all  the  eagerness  of  a  greyhound,  and 
yet  he  would  suddenly  halt  in  full  career  when  I  wished  to  fire,  if  I 
merely  placed  my  hand  upon  his  neck.  From  his  back  I  subsequently 
shot  many  elephants  and  other  game,  and  his  name  will  often  appear  in 
after  pages.  At  the  farm  of  Messrs.  Nelson  and  Blane  I  purchased  two 
more  horses,  which  I  called  Brown  Jock  and  Mazeppa,  and  also  a  span 
of  oxen  and  some  milch  cows. 

On  the  2nd  of  April  I  entered  the  village  of  Colesberg,  where  I  was 
actively  employed  in  making  final  preparations  for  my  distant  campaign 
until  the  9th.  I  engaged  two  Hottentot  servants  named  Booi  and. 
Kleinfeldt,  the  latter  individual  being  one  of  those  who  had  forsaken 
my  banner  at  Bootlonamy,  and  I  purchased  two  more  valuable  steeds, 
which  increased  my  stud  to  ten  very  superior  young  horses.  I  also 
purchased  a  number  of  rough  long-legged  serviceable  dogs  of  a  variety 
of  breeds,  which,  with  several  other  ragged-looking  tykes,  that  I  subse- 
quently purchased  from  Boers  along  the  line  of  march,  increased  my 

14 


222     HUNTING  AND*  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

kennel  to  about  twenty  business-like  dogs.  At  sunrise  on  the  9th  we 
marched  out  of  the  village  and  held  on  until  we  reached  the  Orange 
River  at  Boata's  Drift,  where  we  outspanned  beneath  the  shade  of  a 
grove  of  willows. 

Having  crossed  the  river  on  horseback,  it  proved  too  deep  to  take  the 
waggons  over,  but  I  had  the  consolation  to  remark  that  the  waters  were 
on  the  ebb,  and  by  the  forenoon  of  the  following  day  they  had  so  far 
subsided  that  I  was  enabled  to  cross  the  great  river  without  wetting  my 
cargo.  The  ascension  of  the  opposite  side  proved  extremely  severe, 
being  an  almost  perpendicular  bank  of  soft  sand,  and  I  was  obliged  to 
relieve  the  waggon  of  half  its  load  before  the  oxen  could  drag  it  to  the 
more  practicable  road  beyond. 

I  was  now  all  anxiety  to  reach  my  Fountain  of  Elephants,  and  pushed 
on  with  all  speed  for  Massouey.  On  the  15th,  just  as  I  had  reached  the 
Bastard  kraal  of  Rhama,  I  fell  in  with  my  old  servant  Carollus,  who 
had  absconded  from  me  at  Bootlonamy.  He  was  in  company  with  the 
waggons  belonging  to  Mr.  David  Hume,  the  trader,  on  their  return  to 
the  colony,  but,  meeting  with  his  old  companions  Kleinfeldt  and  Klein- 
boy,  he  resolved  to  turn  about  and  re-enter  my  service,  which  I  was  not 
sorry  for,  as  I  was  short  of  hands  for  the  distant  expedition  I  was  about 
to  make.  I  also  fell  in  with  Captain  Arkwright  and  Mr.  Christie,  who 
were  proceeding  up  the  country  on  a  similar  expedition  to  my  own. 

On  the  16th  of  May  I  halted  at  Chouaney,  at  the  residence  of  Dr. 
Livingstone,  who  told  me  that  one  or  two  troops  of  elephants  had  been 
frequenting  the  district.  With  one  of  these  I  fell  in  on  the  20th,  when 
I  had  an  opportunity  of  testing  the  sportsmanlike  qualities  of  my  new 
servant  Martin.  The  troop  consisted  of  nine  bull  elephants,  the  finest 
of  which  I  shot,  but  Martin,  after  selecting  the  poorest  of  the  lot,  ulti- 
mately lost  him.  We  now  pressed  on*as  rapidly  as  possible  for  my 
favourite  fountain  Massouey,  which  we  at  length  reached  on  the  29th. 

I  felt  sincere  pleasure  in  revisiting  this  very  interesting  spot.  I 
found  it  well  frequented  by  the  elephants.  Two  troops  of  cows  and 
three  old  bulls  had  drunk  there  on  the  preceding  night.  When  the 
waggons  came  up  to  my  old  halting-place  I  took  a  hasty  breakfast,  and 
then  started  on  the  spoor  of  an  enormous  old  bull.  After  following  him 
north  for  about  six  miles  we  lost  him  in  the  spoor  of  a  troop  of  cows ;  I 
accordingly  followed  the  spoor  of  the  cows,  and  soon  came  up  with 
them.  The  troop  consisted  in  all  of  about  ten,  but  there  were  only 
three  full-grown  cows  in  the  troop  j  each  of  these  three,  unluckily,  went 
off  in  different  directions.  I  rode  within  twenty  yards  of  the  best,  and, 
halting,  I  put  two  balls  close  behind  her  shoulder,  and,  calling  to  Martin 
to  finish  her,  I  galloped  after  the  second  best.  I  soon  got  a  view  of  her, 
and  in  three  minutes  I  had  turned  her  head  towards  camp,  and  pre- 
sently I  rolled  her  over  with  about  six  shots.  Martin  and  the  Bushman 
not  appearing  when  two  hours  had  elapsed,  I  rode  to  camp,  where,  to 
my  astonishment,  I  found  my  servant,  who  had  actually  lost  my  ele- 
phant through  the  most  inexcusable  want  of  pluck.  I  was  very  much 
annoyed,  and  regretted  having  attacked  the  troop  at  all. 

At  da»wn  of  day  Molly  eon  and  I  walked  to  the  fountain  to  seek  for 


A    FIGHT    WITH    AN    ELEPHANT.  223 

elephants'  spoor.  A  troop  of  cows,  several  small  bulls,  and  two  well- 
grown  bulls,  had  drunk  during  the  night,  besides  an  unusual  number  of 
rhinoceroses,  perhaps  twenty.  I  made  a  hasty  breakfast,  and  then  took 
up  the  spoor  of  the  two  best  bulls,  with  one  after-rider.  The  spoor  led 
nearly  south-east.  After  following  it  for  about  six  miles  we  found  our- 
selves in  an  elevated  part  of  the  forest,  which  commanded  a  fine  view  of 
the  mountains  to  the  east,  and  here  Mollyeon  climbed  to  the  summit  of 
a  sandal-wood  tree  to  try  if  he  could  see  the  elephants.  He  could  not 
see  those  we  were  spooring ;  but  he  saw  three  other  bull  elephants, 
about  three  parts  grown,  feeding  slowly  along,  steering  about  north ; 
after  a  short  and  dangerous  conflict  I  slew  the  best  with  five  bullets. 

We  then  followed  up  the  spoor  of  one  of  our  first  elephants,  which 
had  now  taken  a  northerly  course.  After  following  it  up  very  sharply 
for  about  five  miles  through  very  open  country,  we  reached  some  dense 
wait-a-bit  cover,  where  we  discovered  our  friend  hiding  himself  within 
twenty  yards  of  us.  He  took  away  at  once  through  the  thickest  of  the 
cover,  and  on  my  approaching  for  a  shot  he  made  the  most  terrific 
charge  after  me,  sending  large  thorny  trees  flying  like  grass  before  him. 
When  he  halted  after  his  charge,  I  sent  a  ball  through  his  ribs,  and  he 
then  made  clean  away,  and  got  into  better  country.  Here  I  fought  with 
him  for  about  an  hour,  and  gave  him  sixteen  shots  from  the  saddle. 
My  horse  was  extremely  troublesome,  and  invariably  destroyed  the 
correctness  of  my  aim ;  the  elephant  was  fierce  and  active,  and  made 
repeated  charges  with  very  destructive  intentions  ;  at  length  he  turned 
and  regained  the  dense  thorny  cover,  in  which  I  lost  him. 

On  the  morning  of  June  1st,  before  the  sun  rose,  Mollyeon  and  I 
walked  to  the  fountain  to  see  if  elephants  had  drunk.  Ten  bull  ele- 
phants had  been  there,  and  had  all  gone  off  together,  holding  a  south- 
easterly course ;  this  was  glorious.  I  started  on  the  spoor  with  five 
natives,  and  Kleinfeldt  as  after-rider  on  Dreadnought.  I  took  eight  of 
my  dogs,  all  led  in  strings,  and  rode  Schwartland,  my  best  shooting- 
horse.  After  following  the  spoor  for  about  five  miles,  we  found  our- 
selves to  leeward  of  the  elephant  I  had  shot  on  Saturday,  and  here  the 
elephants  had  smelt  the  blood,  and  started  off  in  great  fear,  going  clean 
away  through  open  country,  steeling  one  point  west  of  south.  They 
got  into  an  old  elephant  footpath,  and  held  steadily  on  for  many  miles, 
not  halting  to  break  one  branch,  or  to  plough  the  ground.  The  leading 
native  said  he  did  not  expect  to  see  them ;  and  I  was  certainly  of  the 
same  opinion.  At  length  they  got  into  a  thickly  wooded  part  of  the 
country,  and,  although  they  were  still  holding  clean  away  up  wind,  they 
had  occasionally  halted  to  feed.  Here  I  started  an  oryx.  We  presently 
reached  the  border  of  a  very  wide  open  country,  where  the  spoor  took 
a  turn  to  the  east.  We  proceeded  a  few  hundred  yards  farther,  when 
we  had  the  unexpected  satisfaction  to  behold  the  mighty  squadron 
drawn  up  in  the  open  cover,  in  open  order,  two  hundred  yards  ahead. 
Some  of  them  stood  motionless  as  statues,  others  moved  slowly  here 
and  there,  and  browsed  upon  the  trees. 

The  troop  consisted  of  ten  bull  elephants  :  eight  of  them  were  about 
three  parts  grown ;  the  other  two  were  enormous  old"  bull  elephants,  in 


224    HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 


magnificent  condition.  We  halted  and  gave  the  dogs  water,  and  I  then 
rode  slowly  round  the  elephants  to  ascertain  which  was  the  best.  After 
riding  twice  along  their  front,  they  all,  as  if  by  one  accord,  turned  their 
faces  to  me,  and  advanced  leisurely  within  forty  yards,  giving  me  an 
excellent  opportunity  of  making  my  choice.  At  length  they  saw  me, 
and,  sounding  the  alarm,  all  made  off  together  in  great  consternation. 
I  galloped  alongside  of  them  to  make  my  final  choice,  and  selected  the 
largest  elephant.  I  had  some  difficulty  in  getting  him  clear  of  his  com- 
rades, some  of  which  were  extremely  fierce,  and  were  trumpeting  along, 
with  their  tails  and  trunks  aloft.  At  length  I  got  him  clear :  all  my 
dogs  had  gone  off  to  the  right  and  left  after  other  elephants,  and  Dread- 
nought came  galloping  up  to  me,  having  thrown  my  after-rider,  who  did 
not  succeed  in  recapturing  him. 

My  elephant  now,  hearing  the  barking  and  trumpeting  on  every  side, 
halted  beside  a  bushy  tree,  with  his  head  high,  and  right  to  me ;  but 
presently  turning  his  broad-side,  I  gave  it  him  sharp  right  and  left  after 
the  shoulder ;  and  the  dogs,  hearing  the  shots,  came  to  my  assistance. 
The  conflict  now  became  fast  and  furious ;  I  had  very  pleasant  work 
with  this  fine  old  elephant.  My  horse  behaved  very  well',  and  his  fury 
and  attention  were  chiefly  directed  towards  the  dogs,  who  stuck  well  to 
him ;  but  he  was  by  far  the  toughest  elephant  to  finish  that  I  had  ever 
engaged  with.  I  gave  him  thirty-five  balls,  all  about  and  behind  his 
shoulder,  and  discharged  at  distances  varying  from  fifteen  to  thirty-five 
yards,  before  he  would  halt  and  die.  At  length  he  reduced  his  pace  to 
a  very  slow  walk  ;  blood  flowed  from  his  trunk  and  all  his  wounds, 
leaving  the  ground  behind  him  a  mass  of  gore  ;  his  frame  shuddered 
violently,  his  mouth  opened  and  shut,  his  lips  quivered,  his  eyes  were 
filled  with  tears ;  he  halted  beside  a  thorny  tree,  and  having  turned 
right  about  he  rocked  forwards  and  backwards  for  a  few  seconds,  and, 
falling  heavily  over,  his  ancient  spirit  fled.  The  natives  now  came  up, 
and,  having  promised  to  go  on  the  spoor  of  my  horse  Dreadnought,  I 
returned  to  Massouey,  having  off-saddled  for  an  hour. 

No  elephants  having  drunk  at  the  fount  for  some  days,  on  the  5th  I 
resolved  to  leave  my  favourite  Massouey.  I  accordingly  marched  about 
one  p.m.  I  passed  Corriebely  an  hour  before  dark ;  there  was  water 
enough  for  the  horses.  Here  I  met  Mutchuisho  with  a  large  party  of 
Bechuanas,  sent  by  Sicomy  to  endeavour  to  make  me  come  and  trade 
with  him.  I  halted  for  an  hour  after  sunset,  and  then  inspanned  and 
trekked  on  till  the  moon  went  down,  when  I  halted  near  my  old  out- 
span  ning-place,  having  performed  a  very  long  and  difficult  march. 

On  the  6th,  a  very  cold  morning,  we  trekked  at  dawn  of  day,  and  in 
about  three  hours  reached  Lesausau,  a  bold  and  romantic  gorge  in  the 
Bamangwato  mountains,  in  the  depth  of  which  was  a  strong  fountain. 
Sicomy  soon  made  his  appearance,  and  bothered  all  day;  but  he  did 
not  produce  any  ivory.  At  night  I  watched  the  fountain  in  the  bold 
ravine,  and  shot  two  old  black  rhinoceroses,  bull  and  cow,  with  my 
smooth  bore  carrying  six  to  the  pound.  Both  of  these  ran  considerable 
distances,  but  were  found  by  the  natives.      Along  with  the  cow  borhU 


TRADING    FOR    IVORY.  225 

• : — — — ■ • *r 

were  two  other  old  bulls,  who  fought  together  for  three  hours  alongside 
of  me. 

On  the  7th  Sicomy  made  his  appearance  early,  and  towards  evening 
bought  powder  and  lead  with  seven  elephants'  teeth.  Soon  after  this 
bargain  was  concluded  he  ordered  men  to  take  away  the  teeth,  and  he 
threw  me  back  the  powder  ;  but  on  my  kicking  back  the  powder,  and 
swearing  I  would  shoot  the  first  man  who  touched  the  ivory,  he  relin- 
quished the  idea. 

On  the  succeeding  day  Sicomy  prowled  about  the  waggons  all  day, 
and  bothered  me  so  that  I  at  last  lost  my  temper,  and  swore  at  him. 
The  natives  held  a  consultation  for  a  few  minutes,  which  ended  by  their 
saying  that  they  were  all  going  to  leave  me.  I  said  that  I  was  happy 
to  hear  it.  Then  they  decamped  to  a  man ;  but  in  an  hour  four  of  my 
old  acquaintances  appeared,  and  said  that  the  captain  wished  me  to 
come  and  see  him ;  but  I  replied  that  I  was  sick,  and  going  to  sleep. 
In  another  hour  he  made  his  appearance ;  and  on  asking  him  what  I 
had  done  that  he  had  called  all  his  men  away,  he  replied  that  they  had 
gone  away  to  have  a  sleep.  Presently  Arkwright  and  Christie  rode  up 
to  my  waggons  :  theirs  were  at  hand.  On  the  march  they  had  lost  one 
ox  and  two  horses  in  pitfalls,  and  their  "butler,"  while  running  to  the 
assistance  of  the  steeds,  had  been  himself  engulphed  in  another  pitfall, 
which,  fortunately,  however,  lacked  the  usual  sharp-pointed  stake  for 
impaling  the  game,  which  the  probabilities  are  that  he  would  have  con- 
verted into  a  "rump  steak."  At  night  Arkwright  and  I  watched  the 
water,  but  did  not  get  a  shot. 

On  the  9th  Sicomy  brought  me  .ivory.  He  asked  me  to  go  to  my 
hunting-ground,  saying  that  he  would  trade  with  me  there.  He  was 
very  anxious  to  separate  the  two  parties.  As  soon  as  possible,  there- 
fore, I  inspanned,  and  trekked  down  the  broad  strath,  steering  south, 
although  the  natives  asserted  that  I  should  find  no  water,  and  tried  to 
guide  me  north.  After  trekking  about  eight  miles,  much  to  the  annoy- 
ance of  the  Bamangwatos,  I  discovered  the  residence  of  the  Bakaas, 
where  I  halted  for  the  night,  having  sent  a  message  to  Schooey,  the  old 
chief,  that  I  would  trade  with  him  next  day. 

The  next  day  the  old  chief,  with  his  wives  and  nobility,  appeared  at 
an  early  hour,  and  by  midday  I  had  purchased  several  tusks  of  ele- 
phants ;  also  two  very  fine  karosses  of  leopard-skin,  etc.  I  then  in- 
spanned,  and  in  two  hours  I  got  clear  of  the  Bamangwato  mountains, 
when  I  held  about  east,  through  thick  forest,  halting  for  the  night 
beside  a  small  fount,  where  the  horses  could  not  drink.  On  the  march 
pallah  were  abundant  and  very  tame. 

On  the  morning  of  the  12th  Sicomy  came  to  my  fireside,  and  said  he 
was  going  to  trade  with  me.  A  party  of  Bakalahari  had  arrived  a  little 
before,  bearing  twenty-nine  elephants'  teeth.  After  some  trouble  we 
set  the  trading  agoing,  and  in  about  three  hours  I  had  purchased  ten 
bull  and  ten  cow  elephants'  teeth  for  ten  muskets,  and  seven  other  cow 
elephants'  teeth  for  powder,  lead,  and  flints.  I  then  bought  two 
kobaoba  knobkerries.  At  this  moment  natives  came  in,  and  reported 
elephants  to  have  drunk  within  a  mile  during  the  night.     This  caused 


226  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

an  immense  bustle :  in  twenty  minutes  I  was  under  way,  with  two  after- 
riders  and  a  party  of  good  spoorers,  followed  by  about  a  hundred  and 
fifty  starving  natives.  We  took  up  the  spoor  a  mile  to  the  south,  and 
followed  it  due  east  until  the  sun  went  down,  when  we  halted  for  the 
night.  While  spooring  we  found  the  country  in  flames  far  and  wide, 
but  we  crossed  the  fire,  and  took  up  the  spoor  beyond.  We  saw  a  troop 
of  eight  fat  male  elands,  and  a  troop  of  eight  giraffes. 

Next  day  we  followed  the  spoor  for  several  miles  in  an  easterly 
course,  when  it  took  a  turn  to  the  north-west,  through  most  horrible 
wait-a-bit  thorns.  About  midday  we  came  up  with  the  elephants.  The 
troop  consisted  of  one  mighty  old  bull,  and  two  bulls  three-parts  grown. 
I  first  shot  the  best  of  the  two  small  bulls,  and  then  the  old  bull.  The 
natives  and  all  my  dogs  had  kept  him  in  view,  and  one  fellow  had 
pricked  him  in  the  stern  with  an  assagai.  Upon  the  strength  of  this 
the  Bechuanas  came  up  and  claimed  him  as  theirs  when  he  fell ;  but  on 
my  threatening  to  leave  their  country  they  relinquished  the  idea.    . . 

On  the  16th  and  17th  I  bagged  two  first-rate  bull  elephants  in  the 
level  forests  to  the  eastward  of  Mangmaluky. 

On  the  18th,  after  breakfast,  I  rode  to  Mangmaluky,  to  water  my 
horses.  One  old  bull  elephant  had  been  there,  but  the  natives  had  too 
much  flesh,  and  would  not  spoor.  I  rested  all  day,  expecting  my 
waggons,  but  they  did  not  appear.  At  night  a  panther  came  within 
ten  yards  of  my  fire,  and  killed  Cradock  and  disabled  Wolf,  my  two  best 
elephant-dogs. 

On  the  21st  I  held  south,  down  a  beautiful  wide  valley  full  of  very 
green  trees  of  various  kinds.  This  was  evidently  a  favourite  haunt 
with  the  elephants  :  every  tree  bore  their  marks.  At  the  southern  end 
of  this  valley  was  one  of  the  most  interesting  fountains  I  ever  beheld  ; 
the  water  came  gushing  down  through  the  wildest  chasms,  formed  of 
one  succession  of  huge  masses  of  rock  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  thrown 
loosely  together  in  some  places,  and  in  others  piled  high  one  above 
another,  as  if  by  the  hand  of  some  giant.  All  the  ground  and  rock 
about  the  fountain  were  covered  with  a  layer  of  elephants'  dung  about 
a  foot  deep.  We  had  proceeded  about  half-way  up  the  valley  when  we 
heard  elephants  trumpeting  ahead  of  us  :  it  was  a  very  fine  troop  of 
cows.  There  was  one  cow  in  the  troop  larger,  I  think,  than  any  I  had 
ever  seen. 

On  this  occasion  I  was  extremely  unfortunate.  I  began  by  sending 
two  balls  into  the  shoulder  of  the  fine  cow  just  as  they  were  charging 
into  a  dense  cover  of  wait-a-bits.  The  dogs  took  after  two  calves,  which 
I  was  obliged  to  shoot ;  the  natives,  in  attempting  to  assagai  them, 
killed  Bluma  and  wounded*  Alert  in  the  loin.  The  elephants  were 
hiding  in  the  thorns,  and  no  man  knew  or  seemed  to  care  where  they  were. 
At  this  moment  we  beheld  another  fine  troop  of  cow  elephants  going 
along  the  wooded  mountain-side  opposite  to  us.  I  immediately  made 
for  them,  and  had  the  mortification  to  see  them  gain  a  neck  in  the 
mountain  just  above  my  head  as  I  got  within  two  hundred  yards  of 
them.  I  now  returned  to  the  thorny  cover,  where  we  found  the  cows 
concealed.    The  natives  eventually  drove  them  out  on  the  wrong  side  of 


ELEPHANT    AND    KHINOCEROS   SHOOTING.  227 

the  cover  without  warning  me,  and,  to  my  extreme  vexation,  this  fine 
troop  of  cows  got  away  without  my  killing  one.  I  was  extremely 
sorry  to  lose  the  large  cow  elephant :  she  carried  a  pair  of  most  beauti- 
ful and  perfect  teeth.  I  slept  near  the  fountain,  where  I  picked  up  a 
piece  of  a  tooth  of  a  cow  elephant. 

On  the  29th  of  June  I  reached  a  water  called  Lothokane,  and 
hunted  in  the  neighbourhood  for  several  days,  bagging  some  very  fine 
elephants. 

On  the  13th  of  July  I  held  west  with  Mollyeon  and  about  twenty 
natives  on  the  spoor  of  bull  elephants  two  days  old.  In  the  desert  I 
came  upon  a  troop  of  about  twenty  elands,  the  best  of  which  I  rode 
into  and  slew.  In  the  evening  we  took  up  fresher  spoor  of  three  old 
bull  elephants ;  but  night  setting  in,  we  halted  beneath  a  shady  tree. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  resumed  the  spoor,  which  led  us  due  west 
along  the  borders  of  the  desert  without  a  check  until  sundown.  We 
had  now  spoored  these  elephants  a  very  great  distance,  and  the  horses 
had  not  had  water  since  the  morning  of  the  preceding  day.  I  felt  com- 
passion for  the  thirsty  steeds,  and  was  on  the  point  of  turning,  when  lo ! 
a  string  of  Bakalahari  women  were  seen  half  a  mile  before  us,  each  bear- 
ing on  her  head  an  immense  earthen  vase  and  wooden  bowl  containing 
water.  They  had  been  to  a  great  distance  to  draw  water  at  a  small 
fountain,  and  were  now  returning  to  their  distant  desert  home.  This 
was  to  us  a  perfect  godsend.  The  horses  and  dogs  got  as  much  as  they 
could  drink,  and  all  our  vessels  were  replenished.  The  sun  being  now 
under,  we  halted  for  the  night. 

At  sunrise  we  resumed  the  spoor,  and  after  following  it  for  about  ten 
miles,  and  finding  that  these  elephants  had  gone  clean  away  into  the 
desert  beyond  the  reach  of  man,  we  gave  it  up,  and  made  for  the  foun- 
tain where  the  women  had  drawn  the  water  on  the  preceding  day.  On 
reaching  the  fountain  we  found  that  four  bull  elephants  had  drunk  there 
during  the  night.  It  was  a  soft,  sandy  soil,  and  the  spoor  was  beauti- 
fully visible..  I  had  never  seen  larger  spoor  than  that  of  two  of  these ; 
they  had  fed  slowly  away  from  the  fountain,  and  we  followed  on  with 
high  hopes  of  seeing  them  that  day. 

At  length  we  got  into  a  more  densely  wooded  country,  and  presently 
observed  the  elephants  standing  in  the  forest  about  one  hundred  yards 
off.  Having  succeeded  in  securing  the  dogsr  I  shifted  my  saddle  to 
Jock,  and  rode  slowly  forward  to  inspect  the  mighty  game.  Two  of  the 
elephants  were  but  three  parts  grown  ;  the  other  two  were  very  large, 
but  one  of  them  was  a  great  deal  taller  and  stouter  than  the  other.  This 
immense  elephant,  which  was.  I  think,  decidedly  the  largest  I  had  ever 
seen,  had  unfortunately  both  his  tusks  broken  short  off  close  to  the  lip ; 
I  therefore  hunted  his  comrade,  who  carried  a  pair  of  very  beautiful  and 
perfect  tusks.  At  the  sixth  shot  he  came  to  a  stand  and  presently  fell. 
I  then  dismounted  and  ran  up  to  him,  when  he  rose  to  his  feet  and 
stood  some  time,  and  then  walked  a  few  paces  and  fell  again  and  died. 
On  going  up  to  him  I  found  that  he  carried  the  finest  teeth  I  had  yet 
obtained ;  they  must  have  weighed  one  hundred  pounds  each,     He  was 


228  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

an  extremely  old  bull,  and  had  been  once  much  wounded  with  assagais, 
the  blades  of  two  of  which  were  found  in  his  back. 

On  the  17th  I  made  for  camp,  and  held  through  a  fine  open  country- 
lying  north-west  from  Corriebely.  In  following  some  ostriches  I  came 
upon  an  extremely  old  and  noted  black  rhinoceros  lying  fast  asleep  in 
some  low  wait-a-bits,  the  birds  having  tried  in  vain  to  waken  him.  I 
fired  from  the  saddle  :  the  first  ball  hit  him,  as  he  lay,  in  the  shoulder ; 
the  second  near  his  heart,  as  he  gained  his  feet.  In  an  instant  the  dogs 
were  round  him  ;  he  set  off  down  hill  at  a  steady  canter,  and  led  me  a 
chase  of  a  mile,  when  he  came  to  a  stand,  his  shoulder  failing  him.  At 
this  instant  I  beheld  a  troop  of  about  twenty  fine  elands  trotting  before 
me  on  the  open  slope  ;  I  therefore  quickly  finished  the  black  rhinoceros 
with  two  more  balls,  and  then  gave  chase  to  the  elands.  I  bagged  the 
two  best  in  the  troop,  a  bull  and  cow,  the  latter  about  the  fattest  I 
have  ever  seen.  I  brought  the  bull  within  one  hundred  yards  of  the 
chukuroo. 

At  dawn  next  day  I  shot,  from  the  spot  I  had  slept  on,  a  springbok, 
running,  through  the  heart,  at  one  hundred  yards.  After  cutting  off  the 
horns  of  the  black  rhinoceros,  I  held  on  for  Letlochee,  and  slept  at 
Lebotane,  a  very  strong  and  perpetual  fountain. 

On  the  19th  at  sunrise  I  continued  my  march  upon  Letlochee,  and 
presently  detected  an  old  buck  koodoo,  to  which  I  gave  chase.  Just  as 
I  came  up  to  him  my  horse  fell  and  got  away  from  me,  whereby  I  lost 
the  koodoo.  My  after-rider  soon  appeared  and  caught  my  steed,  and 
once  more  we  held  on,  and,  presently  gaining  the  ridge  of  the  vast  basin 
in  which  Letlochee  lies,  we  started  a  second  buck  koodoo,  to  which  I 
and  the  dogs  gave  chase,  and,  after  a  long  and  rocky  chase,  I  shot  him : 
he  was  an  old  buck  with  very  wide-set  horns.  I  then  off-saddled  for  an 
hour,  and  once  more  held  for  camp.  Presently  I  started  a  large  troop 
of  giraffes,  to  which  I  gave  chase,  and  after  a  very  hard  and  long  run  I 
rode  into  a  princely  old  bull,  which  I  drove  within  half  a  mile  of  camp, 
and  then  bowled  over  with  a  shot  in  the  heart.  Jock  on  this  occasion 
was  very  much  done  up.  On  the  24th  I  left  Letlochee,  and  marched 
upon  Lotlokane. 

In  the  forenoon  of  the  next  day  I  rode  out  to  look  for  koodoos,  with- 
out success.  While  riding  through  the  forest  I  came  upon  the  bloody 
spoor  of  an  elephant ;  he  had  been  evidently  hunted  by  natives.  The 
elephant  was  not  far  away,  for,  following  the  spoor  a  few  hundred 
yards,  I  came  upon  about  sixty  natives  who  were  hanging  the  flesh  in 
garlands  upon  the  thorny  trees  all  around.  This  was  an  old  bull  ele- 
phant, and  was  quite  lame,  when  the  Bechuanas  found  him,  from  a  ball- 
wound  in  the  shoulder.  On  returning  to  camp,  one  of  my  Hottentots, 
who  had  been  after  some  strayed  oxen,  stated  that  he  had  come  upon  a 
buffalo  newlykilled  by  a  lion,  and  that  the  lion  was  lying  in  the  bushes 
close  by,  watching  his  prey.  Having  taken  some  coffee,  I  saddled  up 
three  horses,  and  rode  for  the  lion,  with  Booi  and  Kleinboy  carrying 
my  Moore  and  Westley  Richards,  and  accompanied  by  all  my  dogs. 

As  we  approached  the  carcase  of  the  buffalo,  which  lay  in  a  wait-a- 
bit  thorn  cover,  the  dogs  all  dashed  away  to  my  left,  and  in  an  instant 


LION    AND    ANTELOPE    SHOOTING.        229 

they  gave  tongue,  which  was  immediately  followed  by  the  deep  and 
continued  growling  of  the  lion ;  he  seemed  to  be  advancing  right  to 
where  we  stood.  I  turned  my  head  to  ask  Kleinboy  for  my  shooting- 
horse,  which  he  had  ridden  to  the  field  of  battle,  but  my  trusty  after- 
riders  had  fled  on  hearing  the  first  growl  of  the  advancing  lion.  I  be- 
held Booi  swept  out  of  the  saddle  by  the  bough  of  a  tree,  and  fall 
heavily  to  the  ground  with  my  pet  rifle;  while  Kleinboy,  with  my  other 
gun,  was  charging  panic-stricken  in  another  direction.  After  a  short 
chase  I  came  up  with  Kleinboy,  who  did  not  lack  my  blessing ;  and 
having  changed  horses  and  got  my  gun  from  him,  I  galloped  to  meet  the 
grim  lion. 

Ye  Gods !  what  a  savage  he  looked.  The  whole  of  his  mane  was 
deeply  tinged  with  the  blood  of  the  buffalo,  and  the  rays  of  the  declin- 
ing sun  added  to  it  a  lustre  which  imparted  to  the  now  exasperated  lion 
a  look  of  surpassing  fierceness.  He  was  making  for  the  adjacent  rocky 
mountains,  and  he  marched  along  in  front  of  the  dogs  with  his  tail 
stuck  straight  out,  stepping  along  with  an  air  of  the  most  consummate 
pride  and  independence.  There  was  not  a  moment  to  lose,  so  I  galloped 
forward  on  one  side,  and  then  rode  in  slowly  to  get  a  near  shot ;  as  he 
came  on  I  rode  within  thirty  yards  of  him,  and,  halting  my  horse,  I 
fired  for  his  heart  from  the  saddle.  On  receiving  the  ball  he  wheeled 
about,  when  I  gave  him  the  second  a  little  below  the  first ;  he  then 
walked  or  ran  about  ten  yards  forward  and  fell  dead.  This  was  a  very 
large  old  lion ;  he  had  cleaned  his  buffalo  very  nicely,  dragging  up  all 
the  offal  into  a  heap  at  a  distance  from  the  carcase,  and  he  watched  it 
all  day  to  keep  away  the  vultures,  etc.  The  buffalo  carried  a  very  fine 
head. 

On  the  26th,  feeling  in  very  indifferent  health,  I  remained  at  home, 
and  stretched  the  lion's  skin. 

The  next  day  after  breakfast  I  rode  up  the  wild  glen  above  camp,  in- 
tending to  seek  for  bastard  gemsbok  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains. 
I  had  ridden  half-way  up  the  glen,  when,  lo !  the  long-wished-f or  lovely 
sable  antelope  stood  right  in  my  path  ;  a  princely  old  buck  :  he  stood 
about  two  hundred  yards  ahead  looking  at  me.  Having  heard  that  dogs 
can  easily  catch  this  antelope,  and  having  all  my  dogs  at  my  heels,  I 
sent  them  ahead,  and  fired  a  shot  to  encourage  them ;  in  half  a  minute 
they  were  at  the  heels  of  the  potaquaine,  and  turned  him  down  hill. 
He  crossed  the  glen  before  me,  and  dashed  up  a  very  rough  and  rocky 
pass  in  the  rocks  to  my  right,  the  dogs  following,  but  considerably 
thrown  out.  I  listened  to  hear  a  bay,  but  listened  in  vain.  To  follow 
on  horseback  was  impossible ;  I  therefore  galloped  round  to  an  opposite 
point,  and  listened  with  breathless  anxiety,  standing  in  my  stirrups  to 
catch  one  sharp  note  from  my  trusty  dogs.  Nor  did  I  wait  long  :  in  a 
distant  hollow  in  the  rocks  I  could  faintly  here  my  dogs  at  bay. 

My  heart  beat  high ;  it  must  be  the  sable  antelope,  and  the  dogs 
would  never  leave  him.  Already  I  felt  that  he  was  mine,  and  with  a 
joyous  heart  I  urged  Mazeppa  over  the  most  fearful  masses  of  adaman- 
tine rock,  and  at  last  came  into  the  hollow,  where  my  dogs  were  keep- 
ing up  a  furious  bay.     Some  thick  bushes  concealed  the  game  from  my 


230   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

view ;  I  peeped  over  these,  and,  to  my  intense  disappointment,  instead 
of  the  sable  antelope  I  beheld  an  old  bull  koodoo  fighting  gallantly  for 
his  life.  I  bowled  him  over  with  a  shot  in  the  heart ;  and  rode  to 
follow  two  other  sable  antelopes  which  I  had  seen  on  the  face  of  a  rocky 
hill  while  galloping  round  the  rocks  to  seek  for  my  dogs.  I  had  ridden 
a  few  hundred  yards,  when,  high  above  me  on  the  shoulder  of  a  rocky 
and  well- wooded  mountain  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ravine,  I  detected 
a  fourth  sable  antelope,  a  fine  old  buck.  I  then  rode  into  the  deep 
ravine,  and,  having  secured  the  steeds,  I  stripped  to  my  shirt,  and 
ascended  the  bold  face  to  stalk  him. 

I  held  for  a  little  to  the  leeward  of  where  I  had  marked  him  ;*the 
Bushman  followed  with  Boxer  on  a  string.  When  I  gained  the  summit 
I  proceeded  with  extreme  caution,  and  at  length  beheld  him  through 
the  trees  within  a  hundred  yards  of  me  ;  I  crept  about  ten  yards  nearer, 
and  then  lay  till  he  should  move  ;  this  he  presently  did.  He  walked 
obligingly  forward,  and  stood  broadside  in  all  his  glory,  with  his 
magnificent  scimitar-shaped  horns  sweeping  back  over  his  haunches.  I 
fired.  The  ball  broke  his  fore-leg  in  the  shoulder,  and  he  dropped  on 
his  face,  but,  recovering  himself,  he  gained  his  legs,  and  limped  slowly 
over  the  ridge.  Boxer  immediately  appeared,  and  was  beside  me  just 
as  I  peeped  over  the  ridge,  and  beheld  the  wounded  buck  looking  back 
within  fifty  yards  of  me.  On  seeing  Boxer,  he  turned  about,  and,  as  he 
turned,  I  sent  my  second  ball  through  his  ribs.  He  then  disappeared, 
and  stumbled  down  the  rocky  mountain  side,  with  Boxer  at  his  heels. 
I  followed  as  fast  as  could  be,  and 'found  him  half-way  down  the  moun- 
tain, sitting  on  his  haunches  at  bay,  where  I  finished  him  with  a  shot  in 
the  heart.  This  was  a  magnificent  sable  antelope  in  the  prime  of  life ; 
he  was  very  fat,  and  the  flesh  was  excellent. 

■  On  the  28th  I  rode  through  the  hills  in  quest  of  potaquaine,  and 
went  over  a  deal  of  rough  ground  on  foot,  and  saw  spoor,  but  no  pota- 
quaine. In  the  evening  I  took  some  bedding  up  the  glen,  and  slept 
there. 

I  had  lain  in  great  pain  all  night,  and  in  the  morning  of  the  29th  I 
found  myself  attacked  with  acute  rheumatic  fever.  I  had  just  strength 
to  gain  my  waggons,  when  the  disease  came  on  in  fall  force,  swelling  up 
all  the  joints  of  my  body,  and  giving  me  the  most  excruciating  torture. 
I  could  not  move  hand  nor  foot  nor  turn  on  my  bed.  I  had  no  medi- 
cine except  salts  ;  these  I  made  use  of,  and  bled  myself,  and  in  about 
eight  days  the  intense  pains  left  me,  but  left  me  so  weak  that  I  could 
not  stand. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th%  of  August  I  determined  to  leave  the 
Bamangwato  country  and  to  return  to  Sichely  by  way  of  Massouey, 
which  place  I  reached  on  the  15th.  It  was,  however,  infested  by 
natives,  and  all  the  game  gone.  I  accordingly  trekked  for  Lepeby, 
which  I  reached  the  next  day.  Here  too  the  natives  had  gathered,  so  I 
proceeded  on  to  Soobie  ;  where  I  found  the  skull  of  a  very  large  lion, 
which  the  natives  said  had  been  killed  by  another  lion. 

At  night  I  lay  by  the  water  with  Kleinboy;  abundance  of  game  came 
and  drank,  but  it  was  too  dark  to  shoot  with  any  certainty.     About 


A    NOBLE    LIONESS.  231 

midnight  a  lion  and  a  lioness  came  within  ten  yards  of  us  before  we 
noticed  them.  I  was  lying  half  asleep,  but  detected  Kleinboy  removing 
the  big  rifle  from  my  side  :  he  made  a  lucky  shot,  the  ball  passed 
.  through  the  lion's  heart.  He  bounded  forward  about  fifty  yards,  and, 
groaning  fearfully,  he  died.  Presently  we  heard  the  hyaenas  and 
jackals  feasting  on  him,  and  before  morn  he  was  consumed.  After 
some  time  the  lioness  re-approached  the  water  to  seek  her  mate,  and 
drew  nearer  and  nearer  to  us,  roaring  most  fearfully ;  it  was  truly 
enough  to  make  the  stoutest  heart  quail.  Kleinboy's  quite  failed  him  ; 
and  presently,  hearing  other  lions  approaching  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the*fount,  I  certainly  felt  that  we  were  in  danger,  and  accordingly 
agreed  to  light  a  fire,  which  was  soon  blazing  cheerfully.  I  continued 
to  watch  the  water  from  my  deadly  lair,  both  by  day  and  night,  till  the 
1st  of  September,  enjoying  extraordinary  sport,  and  securing  uncom- 
monly fine  specimens  of  the  heads  of  all  the  varieties  of  game  frequent- 
ing the  district.  m. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  about  twelve  o'clock,  Molly ee  came  and  told 
me  that  my  cattle-herd  had  come  upon  four  wildebeests  killed  by  a 
troop  of  lions.  I  immediately  sent  for  the  steeds  and  rode  to  the  spot, 
with  Martin  and  the  Bushman  as  after-riders,  and  accompanied  by  all 
my  dogs.  On  reaching  the  ground,  the  dogs  immediately  took  up  scent, 
and  went  beating  up  the  wind.  I  rode  after,  hunting  them  on,  and 
presently  I  missed  Boxer  and  Alert.  Wolf  now  beat  up  a  scent  to 
windward,  on  which  he  afterwards  went  off  at  full  speed,  and  was  soon 
heard  at  bay  with  a  lion.  Just  as  Wolf  started  I  heard  a  dog  bark  to 
leeward,  and,  riding  hard  in  that  line,  I  found  Lassie  barking  at  a  large 
bush,  in  which  the  lions  had  taken  shelter,  but  were  gone.  I  was  fol- 
lowed by  poor  cripple  Argyll,  who  went  boldly  in  and  took  up  the 
scent.  I  lost  sight  of  Argyll  in  the  bushes.  I  then  turned  my  face,  as 
Wolf  had  gone,  and  rode  hard  to  seek  him;  at  length  he  came  up  to  me, 
quite  exhausted  with  his  exertions. 

I  rode  back  to  seek  Boxer,  Alert,  and  Argyll.  On  coming  to  the 
place  where  Argyll  had  gone  off,  I  found  lions'  spoor,  and  the  spoor  of 
the  dogs  on  the  top  of.  After  holding  this  spoor  for  a  few  hundred 
yards  I  met  my  dogs,  who,  returning,  led  me  to  the  game  I  sought — it 
was  a  noble  lioness.  As  I  approached  I  first  beheld  her  great  round 
face  and  black-tipped  ears  peeping  over  the  low  bushes.  On  riding  up 
she  obstinately  kept  her  full  front  to  me,  although  the  dogs  were  bark- 
ing close  around  her ;  at  length  she  exposed  a  raking  side  shot,  and  the 
ball  smashed  her  shoulder.  She  then  charged  among  the  dogs  without 
doing  any  harm. 

At  my  second  shot  Schwartland  was  unsteady  and  spoilt  my  aim;  the 
ball,  however,  passed  through  the  middle  of  her  foot  from  side  to  side. 
■I  beckoned  to  Martin  for  my  Moore,  and,  having  got  it,  I  rode  up 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  lioness  and  gave  her  a  shot,  which  crippled 
her  in  her  other  shoulder.  She  then  fell  powerless  on  the  ground,  and 
I  fired  my  fourth  shot  for  her  heart :  on  receiving  it  she  rolled  over  on 
her  side  and  died.  I  cut  off  her  head  and  the  ten  nails  of  her  two  fore 
feet  and  rode  to  camp,  where  I  found  that  the  rascally  Hottentots, 


232  HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTUKES. 

taking  advantage  of  Martin's  absence,  had  boned  all  my  rich  game-broth, 
replacing  it  with  cold  water.  It  blew  a  very  stiff  breeze  of  wind  while 
I  was  hunting  the  lions,  which  entirely  prevented  me  from  hearing  the 
dogs  bark.  The  evening  being  very  cold  and  windy,  I  did  not  watch 
the  water.     Lions  roared  around  our  camp  all  night. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


A  Lion  shot  from  my  Watching-hole  at  Midnight — Six  Lions  drink  close  beside  me 
— A  Lioness  slain — A  Rhinoceros  bites  the  dust — Moselakose  Fountain — My 
Shooting-hole  surrounded  with  Grame — Pallahs,  Sassaybys,  Zebras,  etc. — A 
Rhoode-Rheebok  shot — Extraordinary  Circumstance — My  fiftieth  Elephant 
bagged — Interesting  Fountains  on  the  Hills — Leave  my  Waggons  for  the  Hills 
— Struggle  with  a  Boa  Constrictor — Lions  too  numerous  to  be  agreeable — Five 
Rhinoceroses  shot  as  they  came*to  drink — A  Venomous  Snake.  ' 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  3rd  of  September  I  watched  the  fountain.  To- 
wards sunset  one  blue  wildebeest,  six  zebras,  and  a  large  herd  of  pallahs, 
were  all  drinking  before  me.  I  lay  enjoying  contemplation  for  at  least 
fifteen  minutes,  and,  most  of  them  having  then  slaked  their  thirst,  I  sent 
a  ball  through  the  heart  of  the  best  headed  pallah.  I  then  took  a  long 
shot  at  the  blue  wildebeest  bull,  and  sent  the  other  ball  into  his 
shoulder.  I  now  came  to  the  camp,  and  ordered  the  pallah  to  be  placed 
in  front  of  my  hole  beside  the  water,  to  attract  the  lions.  Having  taken 
my  coffee,  I  returned  to  the  water  with  Kleinboy  and  Mollyee.  It  was 
bright  moonlight. 

We  had  scarcely  lain  down  when  the  terrible  voice  of  a  lion  was  heard 
a  little  to  the  east ;  the  jackals  were  feasting  over  the  remains  of  the 
white  rhinoceros  of  yesterday,  and  only  one  or  two  occasionally  came 
and  snuffed  at  the  pallah.  Presently  a  herd  of  zebras,  accompanied  by 
elands,  approached  the  water,  but  were  too  timid  to  come  in  and  drink : 
a  troop  of  wild  dogs  now  came  boldly  up,  and  were  walking  off  with  the 
pallah,  when  I  fired  into  them.  They  made  off,  but  immediately  re- 
turning, and  again  seizing  my  pallah,  I  fired  again,  and  wounded  one  of 
them. 

Soon  after  we  had  lain  down  a  thundering  clattering  of  hoofs  was 
heard  coming  up  the  vley,  and  on  came  an  immense  herd  of  blue  wilde- 
beest. They  were  very  thirsty,  and  the  leading  cow  very  soon  came 
boldly  up  and  drank  before  me.  I  sent  a  ball  through  her  ;  she  ran 
sixty  yards  up  the  slope  behind  me,  and  fell  dead.  Her  comrades  then 
thundered  across  the  vley,  and  took  up  a  position  on  the  opposite  rising 
ground.  In  two  minutes  the  hysenas  and  jackals  had  attacked  the  car- 
case of  this  wildebeest.  Soon  after  this  a  lion  gave  a  most  appalling 
roar  on  the  bushy  height  close  opposite  to  us,  which  was  succeeded  by 
a  deathlike  stillness  which  lasted  for  nearly  a  minute.  I  had  then  only 
one  shot  in  my  four  barrels,  and  I  hastily  loaded  the  other  barrel  of  my 
Westley  E-ichards,  and  with  breathless  attention  I  kept  the  strictest  watch 
in  front,  expecting  every  moment  to  see  the  mighty  and  terrible  king  of 


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A    MAGNIFICENT    LION.  233 

beasts  approaching ;  but  he  was  too  cunning.  He  saw  all  the  other 
game  fight  shy  of  the  water,  so  he  made  a  circuit  to  leeward  to  get  the 
wind  off  the  fountain.  Soon  after  he  roared  I  heard  a  number  of  jackals 
bothering  him,  as  if  telling  him  to  come  across  the  vley  to  the  wilde- 
beest :  he  growled  from  side  to  side,  as  if  playing  with  them,  and  after 
this  all  was  still. 

I  had  listened  with  intense  anxiety  for  about  fifteen  minutes  longer, 
when  I  heard  the  hyaenas  and  jackals  give  way  on  either  side  behind 
me  from  the  carcase  of  the  wildebeest,  and,  turning  my  head  slowly 
round,  I  beheld  a  huge  and  majestic  lion,  with  a  black  mane  which  nearly 
swept  the  ground,  standing  over  the  carcase.  He  seemed  aware  of  my 
proximity,  and  lowering  his  head  he  at  once  laid  hold  of  the  wildebeest 
and  dragged  it  some  distance  up  the  hill.  He  then  halted  to  take 
breath,  but  did  not  expose  a  broadside,  and  in  a  quarter  of  a  minute  he 
again  laid  hold  of  the  wildebeest  and  dragged  it  about  twelve  yards 
farther  towards  the  cover,  when  he  again  raised  his  noble  head  and 
halted  to  take  breath. 

I  had  not  an  instant  to  lose  ;  he  stood  with  his  right  side  exposed  to 
me  in  a  very  slanting  position;  I  stretched  my  left  arm  across  the  grass, 
and,  taking  him  rajther  low,  I  fired  :  the  ball  took  effect,  and  the  lion 
sank  to  the  shot.  All  was  still  as  death  for  many  seconds,  when  he 
uttered  a  deep  growl,  and  slowly  gaining  his  feet  he  limped  toward  the 
cover,  roaring  mournfully  as  he  went.  When  he  got  into  the  thorny 
bushes  he  stumbled  through  them  as  he  moved  along,  and  in  half  a 
minute  I  heard  him  halt  and  growl  fearfully,  as  if  dying.  I  had  now 
every  reason  to  believe  that  he  was  either  dead  or  would  die  im- 
mediately, and  if  I  did  not  seek  him  till  the  morning  I  knew  very  well 
that  the  hysenas  and  jackals  would  destroy  him.  I  accordingly  went 
up  to  camp,  and,  having  saddled  two  horses,  I  and  Martin  rode  to  seek 
him,  taking  all  the  dogs,  led  in  strings  by  the  natives. 

On  reaching  the  carcase  of  the  wildebeest  we  slipped  the  dogs,  and 
they  went  off  after  the  hyaenas  and  jackals  :  we  listened  in  vain  for  the 
deep  growl  of  the  lion,  but  I  was  persuaded  that  he  was  dead,  and  rode 
forward  to  the  spot  where  I  had  last  heard  him  growl.  Lassie,  now 
coming  up,  commenced  barking  at  a  bush  in  front  of  me,  and,  riding 
round,  I  had  the  immense  satisfaction  to  behold  the  most  magnificent 
old  black-maned  lion  stretched  out  before  me. 

The  ball  had  entered  his  belly  a  little  before  the  flank,  and  traversed 
the  length  and  breadth  of  his  body,  crippling  him  in  the  opposite 
shoulder.  No  description  could  give  a  correct  idea  of  the  surpassing 
beauty  of  this  most  majestic  animal,  as  he  lay  still  warm  before  me.  I 
lighted  a  fire  and  gazed  with  delight  upon  his  lovely  marie,  his  massive 
arms,  his  sharp  yellow  nails,  his  hard  and  terrible  head,  his  immense 
and  powerful  teeth,  his  perfect  beauty  and  symmetry  throughout ;  and 
I  felt  that  I  had  won  the  noblest  prize  that  this  wide  world  could  yield 
to  a  sportsman.  Having  about  fifteen  natives  with  me,  I  sent  for 
rheims  and  the  lechteruit,  and  we  bore  the  lion  to  camp. 

On  my  way  from  the  water  to  get  the  horses  and  dogs,  I  shot  an  ex- 
tremely old  bull  black  rhinoceros  with  a  single  ball :  he  dropped  to  the 


234    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

shot.      His  horns  were  quite  worn  down  and  amalgamated,  resembling 
the  stump  .of  an  old  oak-tree. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  4th  I  deepened  my  hole  and  watched  the 
water.  As  the  sun  went  down  two  graceful  springboks  and  a  herd  of 
pallah  came  and  drank,  when  I  shot  the  best  pallah  in  the  troop.  At 
night  I  watched  the  water  with  Kleinboy  :  very  soon  a  black  cow  rhin- 
oceros came  and  drank,  and  got  off  for  the  present  with  two  balls  in 
her.  A  little  afterwards  two  black  rhinoceroses  and  two  white  ones 
came  to  the  water-side.  We  both  fired  together  at  the  finest  of  the  two 
black  rhinoceroses  ;  she  ran  three  hundred  yards,  and  fell  dead.  Soon 
after  this  the  other  black  rhinoceros  came  up  again  and  stood  at  the 
water-side  ;  I  gave  her  one  ball  after  the  shoulder  ;  she  ran  a  hundred 
yards  and  fell  dead.  In  half  an  hour  a  third  old  borel6  appeared,  and, 
having  inspected  the  two  dead  ones,  he  came  up  to  the  water-side.  We 
fired  together  ;  he  ran  two  hundred  yards  and  fell  dead.  I  felt  satisfied 
with  our  success,  and  gave  it  up  for  the  night. 

By  the  following  evening  the  natives  had  cleared  away  the  greater 
part  of  two  of  the  rhinoceroses  which  lay  right  in  the  way  of  the  game 
approaching  the  water  ;  I,  however,  enforced  their  leaving  the  third 
rhinoceros,  which  had  fallen  on  the  bare  rising  ground,  almost  opposite 
to  my  hiding-place,  in  the  hope  of  attracting  a  lion,  as  I  intended  to 
watch  the  water  at  night.  Soon  after  the  twilight  had  died  away,  I 
went  down  to  my  hole  with  Kleinboy  and  two  natives,  who  lay  con- 
cealed in  another  hole,  with  Wolf  and  Boxer  ready  to  slip  in  the  event 
of  wounding  a  lion. 

On  reaching  the  water  I  looked  towards  the  carcase  of  the  rhinoceros, 
and,  to  my  astonishment,  I  beheld  the  ground  alive  with  large-  creatures* 
as  though  a  troop  of  zebras  were  approaching  the  fountain  to  drink. 
Kleinboy  remarked  to  me  that  a  troop  of  zebras  were  standing  on  the 
height.  I  answered,  "  Yes  :  "  but  I  knew  very  well  that  zebras  would 
not  be  capering  around  the  carcase  of  a  rhinoceros.  I  quickly  arranged 
my  blankets,  pillow,  and  guns  in  the  hole,  and  then  lay  down  to  feast 
my  eyes  on  the  interesting  sight  before  me.  It  was  bright  moonlight, 
as  clear  as  I  need  wish,  and  within  one  night  of  being  full  moon.  There 
were  six  large  lions,  about  twelve  or  fifteen  hysenas,  and  from  twenty 
to  thirty  jackals,  feasting  on  and  around  the  carcases  of  the  three  rhin- 
oceroses. The  lions  feasted  peacefully,  but  the  hysenas  and  jackals 
fought  over  every  mouthful,  and  chased  one  another  round  and  round 
the  carcases,  growling,  laughing,  screeching,  chattering,  and  howling 
without  any  intermission. 

The  hyaenas  did  not  seem  afraid  of  the  lions,  although  they  gave  way 
before  them ;  for  I  observed  that  they  followed  them  in  the  most  dis- 
respectful manner,  and  stood  laughing,  one  or  two  on  either  side,  when 
any  lions  came  after  their  comrades  to  examine  pieces  of  skin  or  bones 
which  they  were  dragging.  I  had  lain  watching  this  banquet  for  about 
three  hours,  in  the  strong  hope  that,  when  the  lions  had  feasted,  they 
would  come  and  drink.  Two  black  and  two  white  rhinoceroses  had 
made  their  appearance,  but,  scared  by  the  smell  of  the  blood,  they  had 
made  off. 


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A    TROOP    OF    LIONS.  235 

At  length  the  lions  seemed  satisfied.  They  all  walked  about  with 
their  heads  up,  and  seemed  to  be  thinking  about  the  water;  and  in  two 
minutes  one  of  them  turned  his  face  towards  me,  and  came  on ;  he  was 
immediately  followed  by  a  second  lion,  and  in  half  a  minute  by  the 
remaining  four.  It  was  a  decided  and  general  move,  they  were  all 
coming  to  drink  right  bang  in  my  face,  within  fifteen  yards  of  me. 

I  charged  the  unfortunate,  pale,  and  panting  Kleinboy  to  convert 
himself  into  a  stone,  and  knowing,  from  old  spoor,  exactly  where  they 
would  driuk,  I  cocked  my  left  barrel,  and  placed  myself  and  gun  in 
position.  The  six  lions  came  steadily  on  along  the  stony  ridge,  until 
within  sixty  yards  of  me,  when  they  halted  for  a  minute  to  recon- 
noitre. One  of  them  stretched  out  his  massive  arms  on  the  rock  and 
lay  down ;  the  others  then  came  on,  and  he  rose  and  brought  up  the  rear. 
They  walked,  as  I  had  anticipated,  to  the  old  drinking-place,  and  three 
of  them  had  put  down  their  heads  and  were  lapping  the  water  loudly, 
when  Kleinboy  thought  it  necessary  to  shove  up  his  ugly  head.  I  turned 
my  head  slowly  to  rebuke  him,  and  again  turning  to  the  lions  I  found 
myself  discovered. 

An  old  lioness,  who  seemed  to  take  the  lead,  had  detected  me,  and, 
with"  her  head  high  and  her  eyes  fixed  full  upon  me,  she  was  coming 
slowly  round  the  corner  of  the  vley  to  cultivate  further  my  acquaintance  ! 
This  unfortunate  proceeding  put  a  stop  at  once  to  all  further  contempla- 
tion. I  thought,  in  my  haste,  that  it  was  perhaps  most  prudent  to  shoot 
this  lioness,  especially  as  none  of  the  others  had  noticed  me.  I  accord- 
ingly moved  my  arm  and  covered  her  :  she  saw  me  move  and  halted, 
exposing  a  full  broadside.  I  fired ;  the  ball  entered  one  shoulder  and 
passed  out  behind  the  other.  She  bounded  forward  with  repeated 
growls,  and  was  followed  by  her  five  comrades  all  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of 
dust ;  nor  did  they  stop  until  they  had  reached  the  cover  behind  me, 
except  one  old  gentleman,  who  halted  and  looked  back  for  a  few  seconds 
when  I  fired,  but  the  ball  went  high. 

I  listened  anxiously  for  some  sound  to  denote  the  approaching  end  of 
the  lioness ;  nor  listened  in  vain.  I  heard  her  growling  and  stationary, 
as  if  dying.  In  one  minute  her  comrades  crossed  the  vley  a  little  below 
me,  and  made  towards  the  rhinoceros.  I  then  slipped  Wolf  and  Boxer 
on  her  scent/ and,  following  them  into  the  cover,  I  found  her  lying  dead 
within  twenty  yards  of  where  the  old  lion  had  lain  two  nights  before. 
This  was  a  fine  old  lioness,  with  perfect  teeth,  and  was  certainly  a  noble 
prize;  but  I  felt  dissatisfied  at  not  having  rather  shot  a  lion,  which  I  had 
most  certainly  done  if  my  Hottentot  had  not  destroyed  my  contem- 
plation. 

On.  the  8th,  as  I  and  Kleinboy  watched  the  under  water  about  mid- 
night, we  heard  a  black  rhinoceros  blowing  beside  the  upper  water.  We 
very  rashly  walked  up  within  about  eighteen  yards  of  him,  with  no  other 
shelter  than  a  small  bush.  On  perceiving  us  the  borkle"  at  once  turned 
his  head  to  me  and  advanced  slowly  :  Kleinboy,  who  was  on  my  right 
and  had  a  good  chance,  fortunately  fired  without  orders,  and  the  ball 
entered  the  shoulder  with  a  fine  direction.  Borel6  then  charged  madly 
and  furiously,  through  trees  and  bushes,  right  towards  camp,  making 


236    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


the  most  tremendous  blowing  noise,  and  halting  in  a  stony  open  flat  close 
to  the  waggons  :  he  stood,  and  staggered  about  for  a  minute  or  two, 
and  then  fell.  On  coming  up  to  him  I  found  him  a  magnificent  specimen, 
carrying  three  distinct  horns. 

After  breakfast  on  the  10th,  the  oxen  having  drunk,  we  inspanned 
and  marched  to  Botolonamy,  which  we  reached  at  sunset. 

After  a  march  of  three  days,  during  which  the  cattle  and  horses 
nearly  died  of  thirst,  we  reached  Moselakose,  a  retired  fountain  in  a 
bold  glen,  or  gorge,  in  the  first  mountain  chain  before  us.  As  we  ap- 
proached this  fine  fountain,  the  poor,  thirsty,  loose  cattle  rushed  ahead 
to  the  water,  not  a  little  gratified  by  the  sight. 

I  found  the  spoor  of  game  abundant  at  the  water ;  accordingly  I  out- 
spanned  at  a  considerable  distance  from  it,  and  at  once  set  about  making 
a  hole  from  which  to  shoot  the  game  as  they  came  up  to  drink. 

After  breakfast  on  the  1 6th  I  rode  to  the  water  and  again  lay  in  my 
hole.  There  were  large  herds  of  game  standing  within  a  few  hundred 
yards  of  me  when  I  lay  down,  and  soon  after  the  horses  had  disappeared 
they  came  on  from  all  sides  and  completely  surrounded  me.  It  was  of 
no  consequence  that  they  got  my  wind,  and  frequent  alarms  were 
sounded — the  thirsty  game  to  windward  would  not  heed  the  alarm,  and, 
standing  their  ground  fearlessly,  they  gave  the  others  confidence.  There 
were  standing  within  shot  of  me  at  once  about  three  hundred  pallahs, 
about  twelve  sassaybys,  and  twenty  zebras.  I  could  only  make  out  two 
very  fair  heads  in  all  that  vast  herd  of  pallahs,  and  these  were  not  to  be 
compared  with  my  best  Soobie  heads ;  I,  therefore,  amused  myself  by 
watching  the  game,  and  did  not  fire,  having  resolved  to  wait  quietly,  in 
the  hope  of  some  rarer  game  appearing,  such  as  koodoo,  sable  antelope, 
or  wild  boar,  etc.  At  length  I  observed  three  shy,  strange-looking  an- 
telopes approach  the  water,  with  large  bushy  tails  and  furry-looking 
reddish-grey  hair.  They  were  three  rhoode-rheeboks,  a  buck  and  two 
does.  I  had  never  before  heard  that  either  of  the  rheeboks  frequented 
these  parts ;  being  anxious  to  certify  that  this  antelope  did  so,  I  shot 
the  buck  through  the  heart. 

The,  next  day  I  again  rode  to  the  water  and  lay  down,  with  large 
herds  of  pallahs,  etc.,  in  view:  soon  after  the  horses  were  gone  they 
came  in  and  surrounded  me,  the  same  as  the  day  before.  It  was  a  fine 
show  of  game  :  there  were  about  two  hundred  pallahs,  about  fifty  blue 
wildebeests,  thirty  zebras,  and  thirty  sassaybys — all  at  once  drinking 
and  standing  within  easy  shot  of  me.  After  watching  them  for  a  short 
time  I  selected  a  fine  old  cow  blue  wildebeest,  and  fired,  when  this  vast 
body  of  game  thundered,  panic-stricken,  away  on  every  side.  As  the 
dust  cleared  away  the  gnoo  was  to  be  seen  standing  alone,  and  in  about 
ten  minutes  she  staggered,  fell,  and  died.  Fifteen  minutes  afterwards 
two  herds  of  pallahs  approached  from  different  directions. 

I  was  overhauling  them,  when  up  came  two  tearing  wild  boars  and 

stood  broadside  before  me,  with  their  long  tails  stuck  right  up.   I  took  the 

best  behind  the  shoulder ;  he  ran  off  with  his  comrade  up  a  very  rocky 

■  hill  above  the  fountain,  leaving  the  stones  red  in  his  wake,  and,  feeling 

himself  unable  to  proceed  farther,  he  charged  and  staggered  violently 


\     \ 


U 


MY    FIFTIETH    ELEPHANT.  237 

about  the  stones,  and,  at  last,  gave  in,  having  broken  both  his  under- 
teeth ;  like  any  other  pig,  he  also  squealed  violently  when  the  struggles 
of  death  came  over  him. 

A  similar  circumstance  occurred  as  I  watched  the  waters  on  the  20th. 
Having  shot  a  sassayby,  he  immediately  commenced  choking  from  the 
blood,  and  his  body  began  to  swell  in  a  most  extraordinary  manner ;  it 
continued  swelling,  with  the  animal  still  alive,  until  it  literally  resembled 
a  fisherman's  float,  when  the  sassayby  died  of  suffocation.  It  was  not 
only  his  body  that  swelled  in  this  extraordinary  manner,  but  even  his 
head  and  legs,  down  to  his  knees. 

The  21st  was  a  bitter  cold  morning,  with  a  strong  wind  from  the 
south-west.  I  rode  to  my  hole  at  the  fountain  before  the  morning  star 
appeared.  Shortly,  becoming  impatient  of  lying  still,  I  rose  from  my 
hole  to  examine  what  game  had  drunk  during  the  night,  and,  to  my 
astonishment,  I  at  once  discovered  the  spoor  of  a  mighty  bull  elephant, 
which  must  have  drunk  there  not  many  hours  before.  I  went  in  haste 
to  camp,  and,  having  made  all  ready  for  a  three-days'  trip,  I  took  up  the 
spoor  with  two  after-riders  and  six  natives.  It  led  us  in  an  easterly 
course — first,  through  a  neck  in  the  mountains,  and  then  skirting  them 
for  about  five  miles  through  thick  cover  and  over  hard  adamantine 
rocks  and  sharp  stones.  The  elephant  had  fed  as  he  went  along,  and 
we  soon  came  up  with  him  standing  in  a  thicket.  When  we  first  caught 
sight  of  him  he  was  within  twenty  yards  of  us,  a  bushy  tree  nearly  con- 
cealing him  from  our  view.  I  first  observed  one  of  his  tusks,  and  then 
I  had  to  despatch  Kleinboy  to  catch  the  cowardly  natives,  who  were 
making  off  at  top  speed  with  my  dogs  on  strings.  The  dogs  fought  well 
with  him ;  it  was  very  rocky  ground,  and  I  gave  him  one  deadly  shot 
before  he  was  aware  of  our  presence.  I  then  hunted  him  into  softer 
ground  and  slew  him  with  the  tenth  shot. 

This  fellow  made  up  my  fiftieth  elephant  bagged  in  Africa ;  not  to 
mention  numbers  lost. 

On  our  way  to  camp,  while  following  an  old  established  elephant  and 
rhinoceros  footpath,  I  observed  a  grej^  mass  beneath  a  bush,  with  some- 
thing which  looked  like  a  shining  black  horn  stuck  out  on  one  side )  it 
was  within  about  eighteen  yards  of  our  path.  When  I  got  alongside  of 
it  I  saw  that  it  was  a  princely  old  bull  buffalo,  with  a  very  remarkably 
fine  head.  He  had  lain  his  head  flat  on  the  ground  and  was  crouching, 
in  the  hope  that  we  should  ride  past  without  observing  him,  just  as  an 
old  stag  or  a  roebuck  does  in  Scotland.  I  gave  the  dogs  the  signal  of 
the  presence  of  game,  when,  as  dogs  invariably  will  do,  they  dashed  off 
in  the  wrong  direction.  The  buffalo  sprang  to  his  feet,  and  in  one  in- 
stant he  was  lost  in  the  thicket. 

From  the  quantity  of  buffalo's  spoor  on  the  north  side  of  this  moun- 
tain range,  I  made  up  my  mind  that  there  must  be  some  strong  water 
on  that  side  of  the  hills,  as  only  one  or  two  buffaloes  occasionally  came 
to  drink  at  the  fountain  where  I  was  encamped;  the  natives  all  declared 
that  there  was  none.  I,  however,  on  the  22nd,  determined  to  ride 
thither  to  explore,  and  accordingly  started  with  Kleinboy  and  the 
Bushman.      We  held  first  about  west,  and  then  crossed  the  mountains 

15 


238  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

by  a  succession  of  very  rocky  valleys  and  ravines.  When  we  had 
gained  the  highest  part  of  the  rock,  which  opened  to  us  the  forests  to 
the  north,  a  troop  of  seven  doe  koodoos  and  three  rhooze-rheeboks 
started  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ravine.  The  dogs,  observing  the 
koodoos,  gave  immediate  chase  ;  and  after  a  very  fine  and  bold  course 
they  brought  one  to  bay  far  in  the  valley  below,  which  Kleinboy  shot. 

I  had,  in  the  mean  time,  ridden  ahead,  following  an  old  established 
game  footpath,  and  after  proceeding  two  or  three  miles  I  had  the  satis- 
faction to  discover  a  beautiful  fountain  in  a  deep  rocky  ravine  on  the 
north  side  of  the  mountains.  Here  was  fresh  spoor  of  black  and  white 
rhinoceros,  buffalo,  wildebeest,  sassayby,  koodoo,  klipspringer,  etc.  A 
little  after  this  I  was  met  by  my  after-riders,  who  had  likewise  dis- 
covered a  ravine  containing  water  a  little  to  the  east.  There  they  had 
started  two  bull  buffaloes,  three  buck  koodoos,  and  a  troop  of  rheebok. 
I  then  rode  to  inspect  this  water,  and  took  up  the  spoor  of  the  buffaloes, 
in  the  hope  of  bringing  them  to  bay  with  the  dogs.  I  held  up  the  hol- 
low on  their  spoor,  and  presently  observed  one  of  them  standing  among 
some  trees  to  my  left.  The  dogs  were  snuffing  about  close  under  his 
nose ;  nevertheless  they  failed  to  observe  him,  but  set  off  at  top  speed 
on  some  other  scent ;  nor  did  they  return  for  about  ten  minutes.  The 
buffalo  did  not  seem  startled  by  the  dogs,  but  walked  slowly  over  the 
rocky  ridge. 

I  was  following  briskly  after  him,  when  I  observed  his  comrade  lying 
right  in  our  path  ;  we  squatted  instantly,  but  he  got  our  wind  and  was 
off.  I  followed,  and  got  a  shot  across  the  ravine,  wounding  him  behind 
the  shoulder.  When  the  dogs  came  up  I  tried  to  put  them  on  this 
spoor,  but  they  dashed  up  the  ravine  and  started  three  other  buffaloes, 
which  they  failed  in  bringing  to  bay,  nor  did  I  again  see  the  dogs  till  I  had 
been  two  hours  in  camp.  I  nearly  killed  myself  by  running  after  them, 
for  I  was  on  foot,  the  ground  being  too  bad  for  the  horses. 

On  reaching  the  steeds  I  rode  hard  for  camp,  as  the  day  was  far 
spent.  Passing  the  mouth  of  another  bold  ravine,  we  crossed  very  well 
beaten  paths,  which  led  me  to  suspect  that  this  ravine  also  contained  a 
fountain.  We  had  ridden  about  half-way  to  camp  when  a  fine  old  bull 
eland  came  charging  up  to  leeward,  having  got  our  wind.  I  sprang 
from  the  back  of  Mazeppa,  and  gave  him  both  barrels  as  he  passed  me. 
We  then  gave  him  chase  through  very  thick  cover,  and  after  a  sharp 
burst  of  about  a  mile  I  shot  him  from  the  saddle  :  he  carried  a  very  fine 
head,  and  was,  notwithstanding  the  lateness  of  the  season,  in  very  good 
condition. 

On  the  23rd,  in  the  forenoon,  I  rode  to  explore  the  suspected  ravine 
of  the  day  before,  and  having  crossed  the  mountain  chain  I  came  upon 
the  fresh  spoor  of  a  very  large  troop  of  cow  elephants  leading  towards 
the  spot.  I  at  once  determined  to  follow  it,  and  despatched  the  Bushman 
to  camp  for  the  dogs  and  Kleinboy's  gun,  etc.  I  rode  slowly  ahead  on 
the  spoor,  imagining  the  elephants  at  a  great  distance,  when,  on  gaining 
a  ridge,  I  came  full  upon  the  troop  drawn  up  within  twenty -five  yards 
of  me.     There  were  perhaps  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  of  them.     The 


ON    THE    SPOOR    OF    LARGE    GAME.         239 


instant  I  came  upon  them  they  got  my  wind,  and,  rumbling,  away  they 
went  in  three  divisions  into  the  impenetrable  cover. 

The  ground  that  I  had  now  reached  was  one  solid  mass  of  sharp  ada- 
mantine blocks  of  rock,  so  that  a  horse  could  with  difficulty  walk  on  it. 
I  held  along  the  ridge  above  the  cover,  and  in  half  a  minute  I  heard  one 
division  of  the  elephants  crashing  through  the  cover  after  me.  They 
came  on  a  little  above  me,  and  another  troop  held  the  same  course  a 
little  before  me,  so  that  I  had  considerable  difficulty  in  getting  clear  of 
them,  and  when  I  did  so  I  held  for  the  level  ground  beneath  the  dense 
cover.  Here  I  fell  in  with  one  elephant  with  a  calf  :  she  had  only  one 
tooth.  I  gave  her  a  shot  behind  the  shoulder ;  and  next  minute,  while 
trying  to  head  her  in  the  dense  cover,  she  very  nearly  ran  me  down  in 
her  charge,  and  being  without  dogs  I  lost  her  immediately. 

I  then  gave  up  the  elephants  in  vexation  with  the  ground,  and  rode 
to  explore  the  ravine.  My  wounded  elephant,  however,  happened  to 
take  the  same  course  above  me  in  the  cover,  and  I  once  more  fell  in 
with  her.  She  was  going  slowly  along  the  hill-sides,  keeping  in  the 
thickest  cover,  with  a  rocky  ground,  where  my  horse  would  be  of  no 
service  to  me.  I  might  now  have  got  her,  but  as  she  had  only  one 
tooth  I  was  not  anxious  about  her,  so  I  held  up  the  bold  ravine. 

Here,  as  I  expected,  I  found  a  strong  fountain  in  a  solid  rocky  basin 
not  more  than  ten  feet  wide  :  it  was  a  very  interesting  spot,  approach- 
able by  three  different  rugged  passes,  the  sides  of  which  were  furrowed 
by  broad  footpaths  established  through  ages.  The  large  stones  and 
masses  of  rock  were  either  kicked  to  the  side  or  packed  into  a  level 
"  like  a  pavement ;  "  even  the  solid  adamantine  rock  was  worn  hollow 
by  the  feet  of  the  mighty  game  which  most  probably  for  a  thousand 
years  had  passed  over  it.  Here  I  found  fresh  spoor  of  most  of  the 
larger  game,  and,  resolving  to  play  havoc  by  light  of  the  coming  moon, 
I  left  the  glen  and  rode  for  camp. 

On  the  25th,  after  breakfast,  I  started  with  bedding  and  provisions  to 
hunt  for  a  few  days  on  the  other  side  of  the  hills.  We  visited  the  first 
water  and  established  a  place  of  concealment  with  rocks  and  green 
boughs  on  the  rock.  While  we  were  making  this  bothy  a  wild  boar 
hove  in  view,  but,  observing  us,  he  escaped.  We  then  held  on  to  the 
farther  ravine,  and  on  my  way  thither  I  nearly  rode  down  a  fine  old 
bastard  gemsbok,  which  got  away  among  the  rocks.  I  repaired  an  old 
hiding-hole  at  this  water,  building  it  up  with  fragments  of  rock.  I  then 
sent  the  steeds  to  a  proper  distance,  put  out  my  fire,  and  lay  down  to 
.    watch  for  the  night. 

First  came  a  pallah,  closely  followed  by  a  wild  dog.  The  pallah 
escaped,  the  wild  dog  presently  returned,  and  observing  my  retreating 
men  he  barked  loudly ;  ten  minutes  after,  about  eight  wild  dogs  came 
up  the  glen  and  drank.  Night  now  set  in,  and  the  moonlight  was  very 
faint.  Presently  an  occasional  loud  displacement  of  rock  and  stone 
announced  the  approach  of  large  game  :  it  was  two  old  bull  buffaloes  ; 
they  came  and  drank,  and  went  away  without  approaching  within  shot. 
Soon  after  fourteen  buffaloes  came  ;  but  before  these  had  finished  drink- 
ing they  got  an  alarm  and  charged  panic-stricken  up  the  rugged  moun- 


240    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

tain  side.  They  had  winded  two  lions,  which  came  up  to  the  fountain- 
head,  and  drank  within  eighteen  yards  of  me,  where  they  lay  lapping 
loudly  and  occasionally  halting  for  four  or  five  minutes,  but,  from  their 
light  colour  and  the  masses  of  rock  that  surrounded  them,  I  could  not 
see  to  fire.  About  ten  minutes  after  they  had  drunk  I  fancied  that 
they  were  still  lingering,  and  on  throwing  a  stone  their  step  was  heard 
retreating  among  the  dry  leaves  and  stones. 

Soon  after  this  six  old  bull  buffaloes  approached  from  a  glen  behind 
us  :  they  walked  very  slowly,  standing  long  to  listen.  When  the  leader 
came  up  within  twenty  yards  of  us,  Kleinboy  and  I  fired  together  ;  it 
ran  thirty  yards  and  in  two  minutes  fell.  His  comrades,  after  consider- 
ing the  matter  for  five  minutes,  came  on  once  more  :  we  again  took  the 
leader,  and  he  also  dropped.  His  comrades,  as  before,  retreated,  but 
soon  returning  we  wounded  a  third,  which  we  did  not  get.  The  moon 
was  now  under  and  it  was  very  dark;  the  buffaloes  however  were  deter- 
mined to  try  it  on  once  more,  and  coming  up  a  fourth  and  last  time  we 
shot  another  old  bull.  In  about  ten  minutes  lions  were  very  busy  on 
the  carcase  of  the  first  buffalo,  where  they  feasted  till  morning,  taking 
another  drink  before  they  went  away.  Towards  daybreak  we  wounded 
a  white  rhinoceros,  and  soon  after  two  black  rhinoceroses  fought  beside 
us,  but  I  was  too  sleepy  to  rise. 

On  the  26th  I  rose  at  earliest  dawn  to  inspect  the  heads  of  the  three 
old  buffaloes;  they  were  all  enormous  old  bulls,  and  one  of  them  carried 
a  most  splendid  head.  The  lions  had  cleaned  out  all  his  entrails  :  their 
spoor  was  immense.  Having  taken  some  buffalo  breast  and  liver  for 
breakfast,  I  despatched  Ruyter  to  the  waggons  to  call  the  natives  to  re- 
move the  carcases,  whilst  I  and  Kleinboy  held  through  the  hills  to  see 
what  game  might  be  in  the  next  glen  which  contained  water.  On  our 
way  thither  we  started  a  fine  old  buck  koodoo,  which  I  shot,  putting 
both  barrels  into  him  at  one  hundred  yards.  As  I  was  examining  the 
spoor  of  the  game  by  the  fountain  I  suddenly  detected  an  enormous  old 
rock-snake  stealing  in  beneath  a  mass  of  rock  beside  me.  He  was  truly 
an  enormous  snake,  and,  having  never  before  dealt  with  this  specimen 
of  game,  I  did  not  exactly  know  how  to  set  about  capturing  him.  Being 
very  anxious  to  preserve  his  skin  entire,  and  not  wishing  to  have  re- 
course to  my  rifle,  I  cut  a  stout  and  tough  stick  about  eight  feet  long, 
and  having  lightened  myself  of  my  shooting-belt  I  commenced  the 
attack.  Seizing  him  by  the  tail  I  tried  to  get  him  out  of  his  place  of 
refuge ;  but  I  hauled  in  vain,  he  only  drew  his  large  folds  firmer 
together ;  I  could  not  move  him.  At  length  I  got  a  rheim  round  one  of 
his  folds  about  the  middle  of  his  body,  and  Kleinboy  and  I  commenced 
hauling  away  in  good  earnest. 

The  snake,  finding  the  ground  to  hot  for  him,  relaxed  his  coils,  and, 
suddenly  bringing  round  his  head  to  the  front,  he  sprang  out  at  us  like 
an  arrow,  with  his  immense  and  hideous  mouth  opened  to  its  largest 
dimensions,  and  before  I  could  get  out  of  his  way  he  was  clean  out  of 
his  hole,  and  made  a  second  spring,  throwing  himself  forward  about 
eight  or  ten  feet  and  snapping  his  horrid  fangs  within  a  foot  of  my 


KILLING    A    LAEGE    SNAKE.  241 

naked  legs.  I  sprang  out  of  his  way,  and  getting  a  hold  of  the  green 
bough  I  had  cut  I  returned  to  the  charge. 

The  snake  now  glided  along  at  top  speed  :  he  knew  the  ground  well, 
and  was  making  for  a  mass  of  broken  rocks  where  he  would  have  been 
beyond  my  reach,  but  before  he  could  gain  this  place  of  refuge  I  caught 
him  two  or  three  tremendous  whacks  on  the  head.  He  however  held 
on,  and  gained  a  pool  of  muddy  water,  which  he  was  rapidly  crossing 
when  I  again  belaboured  him,  and  at  length  reduced  his  pace  to  a  stand. 
We  then  hanged  him  by  the  neck  to  a  bough  of  a  tree,  and  in  about 
fifteen  minutes  he  seemed  dead,  but  he  again  became  very  troublesome 
during  the  operation  of  skinning,  twisting  his  body  in  all  manner  of 
ways.     This  serpent  measured  fourteen  feet. 

At  night  no  game  visited  the  water,  being  scared  by  the  strong  smell 
of  the  carrion.  Lions  however  were  so  numerous  that  we  deemed  it  safe 
to  shift  a  position  we  had  taken  down  the  glen,  for  they  trotted  past 
within  twenty  yards  of  us,  growling  fearfully.  We  fired  off  the  big 
gun  to  scare  them  for  the  moment  while  we  shifted  to  our  baggage  at 
the  fountain-head,  where  we  instantly  lighted  a  large  fire.  The  lions, 
for  a  short  time  after  this,  kept  quiet,  when  they  again  returned,  and 
the  fire  being  low  they  soon  commenced  upon  the  buffalo  the  natives 
had  left  within  fifty  yards  of  us,  and  before  morning  two  of  them  came 
up  and  looked  into  our  bothy,  when  Boxer  giving  a  sharp  bark,  and  I 
suddenly  awaking  and  popping  up  my  head,  they  bounded  off. 

In  the  evening  of  the  28th  I  shot  an  old  bull  koodoo.  At  night  I 
watched  the  water  near  my  camp  with  Kleinboy.  After  a  long  time  had 
elapsed  an  enormous  old  bull  muchocho  or  white  rhinoceros  came  slowly 
on,  and  commenced  drinking  within  fifteen  yards  of  us,  and  next  minute 
a  large  herd  of  zebras  and  blue  wildebeest.  It  was  long  before  the 
muchocho  would  turn  his  side  ;  when  he  did,  we  fired  together,  and  away 
he  went  with  zebras  and  wildebeests  concealed  in  a  cloud  of  dust.  Next 
came  an  old  bull  borel6 ;  we  fired  together,  and  he  made  off,  blowing 
loudly,  after  charging  round  and  round,  seeking  some  object  on  which  to 
wreak  his  vengeance.  Next  came  another  borel6;  and  he  got  two 
bullets  into  his  person.  The  fourth  that  came  was  another  old  bull 
muchocho ;  he  ran  forty  yards  and  fell.  And  fifth  came  a  cow  borele" ; 
she  fell  dead  to  the  shots.  Three  other  rhinoceroses  came  about  me,  but 
I  was  too  drowsy  to  watch  any  longer,  and  fell  asleep. 

When  day  dawned  I  rose  to  see  if  the  wounded  chukuroos  had  gone 
far,  and  how  like  were  their  horns.  We  got  the  two  old  bull  muchochos 
and  a  bull  and  a  cow  borel6  :  both  the  muchochos  and  the  bull  borele 
carried  very  fine  horns ;  the  two  former  were  very  fat.  I  immediately 
set  all  the  natives  to  work  to  clear  away  the  flesh  and  bring  a  supply 
to  camp.  The  heat  in  the  middle  of  the  day  was  very  oppressive  ;  in 
the  evening  I  lay  by  the  fountain.  Two  troops  of  pallahs  and  a  herd  of 
sassaybys  came  up,  when  I  shot  the  best  stag  sassayby  in  the  troop :  he 
got  a  raking  shot  at  a  hundred  yards,  and,  after  galloping  after  his 
comrades  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  at  top  speed,  he  fell  violently  over 
in  the  dust.  Wishing  to  give  my  man  Martin  some  diversion,  I  told  him 
to  come  up  to  the  water  at  sunset  with  Kleinboy  and  the  two  big  guns 


242    HUNTING  AND   SPOETING  ADVENTUEES. 


to  watch  all  night  for  rhinoceros.  As  we  were  making  our  beds  ready 
we  suddenly  observed  a  superb  old  bull  buffalo  coming  briskly  on  to 
drink :  he  was  already  in  full  sight  of  us ;  there  was  no  time  to  get  the 
horses  out  of  the  way,  and  there  they  stood  saddled  and  bridled  beside 
the  water.     In  an  instant  we  were  out  of  sight  in  the  hole. 

On  came  the  buffalo,  but,  detecting  the  saddlery,  he  eyed  the  steeds 
with  great  suspicion :  one  of  these  was  fortunately  "  the  pony,"  who 
entered  a  great  dislike  to  buffaloes,  having  been  once  furiously  charged 
by  one ;  accordingly,  when  the  pony  beheld  the  buffalo  he  cocked  his 
ears  at  him,  and,  turning  right  about  face,  he  held  away  for  his  comrades  : 
then  the  old  buffalo  came  on ;  he  was  going  to  make  a  cast  to  leeward, 
but  to  this  I  objected,  and,  taking  him  a  raking  shot  at  eighty  yards,  I 
shot  him  in  the  heart ;  he  ran  forty-six  yards  and  fell  dead.  But  little 
game  appeared  during  the  night,  scared  by  the  blood  of  last  night's 
carnage.  About  midnight  I  put  a  ball  through  a  hyaena.  A  little 
before  the  moon  was  under  a  fine  old  borel6  stood  within  fifteen  yards  of 
us.  Directing  Martin  and  Kleinboy  to  present,  and  await  my  signal  to 
fire,  I  covered  Borele,  but  before  I  had  given  any  signal  Martin  thought 
proper  to  fire  with  the  borele"  standing  almost  tail  on  end  to  us ;  we  of 
course  lost  him,  and,  after  consigning  Martin  and  the  borel6  to  the  shades 
below,  I  lay  down  to  rest  in  anything  but  a  smooth  temper. 

These  fountains  afforded  me  excellent  shooting  for  about  a  fortnight 
longer,  during  the  whole  of  which  time  I  watched  nightly  in  my  different 
hiding-holes,  and  bagged  buffaloes,  rhinoceros,  koodoos,  zebras,  and  other 
game.  One  night,  while  so  engaged,  a  horrid  snake  which  Kleinboy 
had  tried  to  kill  with  his  loading-rod  flew  up  at  my  eye,  and  spat  poison 
into  it.  Immediately  I  washed  it  well  out  at  the  fountain.  I  endured 
great  pain  all  night,  but  next  day  the  eye  came  all  right. 


CHAPTEE  XXIII. 


Sichely's  Kraal  again — The  Ngotwani — Chase  and  kill  a  waterbuck — A  portion  of 
the  Cattle  recovered — A  Leopard  bayed  by  my  Dogs  and  slain —  Buffalo-shoot- 
ing beside  the  Ngotwani — A  Lion  feeds  on  the  Carcase — My  Horse  knocked 
down  by  the  King  of  Brutes — Meet  a  grim  Lion  face  to  face  at  midnight ! — He 
sheers  off — These  Animals  unpleasantly  bold — An  amusing  Chase  with  a  Buf- 
falo— Interesting  Stalk  in  rocky  ground — Leave  my  hunting-ground  and  encamp 
on  Vaal  River — Great  Herds — In  taking  the  Drift  a  Waggon  sticks  fast  in  the 
middle  of  the  River — Great  fear  of  losing  all  my  Property — Rescue  of  the 
Waggon — Colesberg — A  Farmer's  Waggon  capsized  in  the  Fish  River — Visit 
Strydom's  farm  and  find  it  desolate — Arrival  at  Grahamstown. 

On  the  16th  of  October  we  inspanned,  and  trekked  steadily  on  for  Sichely 
under  a  most  terrific  sun,  and  halted  at  sundown  without  water :  the 
country  was  covered  with  spoor  of  all  the  larger  varieties  of  game 
including  elephants. 

On  the  17th  I  inspanned,  and  trekked  a  couple  of  miles,  when  I  found 
myself  once  more  on  the  banks  of  the  Ngotwani,  which,  except  at  its 
source,  was  this  year  generally  dried  up  ;  we  however  found  a  spot  in 


SHOOTING    A    WATERBUCK.  243 

its  gravelly  bed  where,  by  digging,  we  obtained  sufficient  water  for  all. 
The  natives  in  charge  of  the  loose  cattle  chose  to  remain  behind  all 
night,  I  having  too  well  supplied  them  with  flesh.  Though  my  remaining 
stud  of  six  horses  and  twelve  trek-oxen  were  thus  absent  all  night,  I 
was  not  anxious  about  them,  trusting  to  the  usual  good  herding  of  the 
natives.  When,  however,  they  came  up  after  breakfast,  they  were  minus 
all  the  oxen,  without  being  able  to  give  any  account  of  them,  further 
than  that  they  imagined  that  they  were  with  us :  I  accordingly  despatched 
two  of  my  men  on  horseback  to  take  up  their  spoor. 

On  the  18th  I  arose  before  it  was  clear,  and  rode  up  the  banks  of  the 
river  with  my  dogs  to  seek  for  water-buck,  and  presently  arrived  where 
another  considerable  river's  bed  joins  the  Ngotwani.  Near  this  spot  I 
came  upon  an  old  waterbuck,  the  first  I  had  ever  seen.  He  was 
standing  among  some  young  thorn-trees,  within  sixty  yards,  and  had  his 
eye  full  upon  me.  Before  I  could  pull  up  my  horse  he  was  off  at  a 
rapid  pace,  and  crossed  the  river's  bed  above  me.  I  shouted  to  the 
dogs,  and  fired  a  shot  to  encourage  them  ;  they  had  a  pretty  fair  start,. 
and  in  half  a  minute  the  buck  disappeared  over  a  rocky  ridge,  with 
three  or  four  of  my  best  dogs  within  thirty  yards  of  his  stern.  I  knew 
that  he  would  make  for  the  nearest  water  ;  accordingly  I  kept  my  eye 
down  the  river,  and  listened  with  an  attentive  ear  for  the  baying  of  the 
dogs. 

Presently  the  noble  buck  appeared  ascending  a  rocky  pyramidal  hill 
down  the  river  side,  with  the  agility  of  a  chamois,  and  only  one  dog, 
Boxer,  my  best,  at  his  heels.  I  then  galloped  down  the  river  side  at 
top  speed  to  meet  him,  but  was  too  late  :  I  however  fired  a  long  shot  to 
encourage  Boxer.  Next  moment,  in  ascending  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
Ngotwani,  my  horse  fell  and  rolled  down  the  bank  very  nearly  on  the 
top  of  me.  One  of  the  barrels  of  my  favourite  ball  gun  was  thereby 
stove,  by  coming  in  violent  contact  with  a  piece  of  rock.  Jock,  on 
gaining  his  legs,  declined  being  caught,  and  made  off  for  camp,  followed 
by  my  after-rider  :  Alert  at  this  moment  came  up  to  me,  having  eight 
or  ten  inches  of  the  skin  of  his  breast  and  forearm  ripped  clean  up  by 
the  waterbuck. 

I  now  fancied  that  I  had  lost  him,  but  a  little  after  I  heard  Boxer's 
voice  coming  down  the  river  side  with  the  buck,  having  once  more 
turned  him.  I  ran  up  the  bank  of  the  Ngotwani  at  my  best  pace  to 
meet  them,  and  found  the  waterbuck  at  bay  in  a  deep  pool  of  water, 
surrounded  by  high  banks  of  granite  rock.  He  would  not  stand  at  bay, 
but  swam  through  the  deep  water  and  broke  bay  on  the  opposite  side. 
Boxer,  however,  held  on  and  followed  him  up  the  river,  and  once  more 
turned  him  to  this  pool.  I  met  them  coming  down  the  watercourse, 
and  sent  a  ball  into  the  buck's  throat,  which  made  blood  flow  freely 
from  his  mouth.  He  held  stoutly  on,  however,  and  plunged  into  the 
deep  pool,  there  standing  at  bay  under  a  granite  rock.  I  then  headed 
him,  and  from  above  put  a  bullet  between  his  two  shoulder-blades,  which 
dropped  him  dead  on  the  spot.  He  died  as  a  waterbuck  ought,  in  the 
deep  water.  My  success  with  this  noble  and  very  beautiful  antelope 
gave  me  most  sincere  pleasure. 


244    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


I  had  now  shot  noble  specimens  of  every  sort  of  game  in  South  Africa, 
excepting  a  few  small  bucks  common  in  the  colony,  and  the  hippopotamus. 
Having  contemplated  the  waterbuck  for  some  time,  I  cut  off  his  hand- 
some head,  which  I  bore  to  camp  in  triumph.  The  next  day  I  suc- 
ceeded in  bringing  down  another  fine  waterbuck  after  a  hot  chase. 

On  the  19th  Kleinboy  returned  without  the  lost  oxen  :  the  natives  said 
that  they  had  been  found  by  Bakalahari,  and  were  driven  to  Sichely. 
Next  day  the  half  of  them  were  sent  by  the  chief,  with  a  message  that 
no  more  had  been  found,  but  that  spoor  had  been  seen. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22nd  I  rode  into  camp,  after  unsuccessfully 
following  the  spoor  of  a  herd  of  elephants  for  two  days  in  a  westerly 
course.  Having  partaken  of  some  refreshment,  I  saddled  up  two  steeds 
and  rode  down  the  bank  of  the  Ngotwani  with  the  Bushman,  to  seek  for 
any  game  I  might  find.  After  riding  about  a  mile  along  the  river's 
green  bank  I  came  suddenly  upon  an  old  male  leopard,  lying  under  the 
shade  of  a  thorn  grove,  and  panting  from  the  great  heat.  Although  I 
was  within  sixty  yards  of  him  he  had  not  heard  the  horses'  tread.  I 
thought  he  was  a  lioness,  and,  dismounting,  took  a  rest  in  my  saddle  on 
the  old  grey,  and  sent  a  bullet  into  him.  He  sprang  to  his  feet  and  ran 
half  way  down  the  river's  bank  and  stood  to  look  about  him,  when  I 
sent  a  second  bullet  into  his  person,  and  he  disappeared  over  the  bank. 
The  ground  being  very  dangerous,  I  did  not  disturb  him  by  following 
then,  but  I  at  once  sent  Ruyter  back  to  camp  for  the  dogs. 

Presently  he  returned  with  Wolf  and  Boxer,  very  much  done  up  with 
the  sun.  I  rode  forward,  and  on  looking  over  the  bank  the  leopard 
started  up  and  sneaked  off  alongside  of  the  tall  reeds  and  was  instantly 
out  of  sight.  I  fired  a  random  shot  from  the  saddle  to  encourage  the 
dogs,  and  shouted  to  them ;  they  however  stood  looking  stupidly  round 
and  would  not  take  up  his  scent  at  all.  I  led  them  over  his  spoor  again 
and  again,  but  to  no  purpose ;  the  dogs  seemed  quite  stupid,  and  yet 
they  were  Wolf  and  Boxer,  my  two  best. 

At  length  I  gave  it  up  as  a  lost  affair,  and  was  riding  down  the  river's 
bank  when  I  heard  Wolf  give  tongue  behind  me,  and,  galloping  back, 
I  found  him  at  bay  with  the  leopard,  immediately  beneath  where  I  had 
fired  at  him  :  he  was  very  severely  wounded,  and  had  slipped  down  into 
the  river's  bed  and  doubled  back,  whereby  he  had  thrown  out  both  the 
dogs  and  myself.  As  I  approached  he  flew  out  upon  Wolf  and  knocked 
him  over,  and  then,  running  up  the  bed  of  the  river,  he  took  shelter  in 
a  thick  bush  :  Wolf,  however,  followed  him,  and  at  this  moment  my 
other  dogs  came  up,  having  heard  the  shot,  and  bayed  him  fiercely.  He 
sprang  out  upon  them  and  then  crossed  the  river's  bed,  taking  shelter 
beneath  some  large  tangled  roots  on  the  opposite  bank.  As  he  crossed 
the  river  I  put  a  third  bullet  into  him,  firing  from  the  saddle,  and  as 
soon  as  he  came  to  bay  I  gave  him  a  fourth,  which  finished  him.  This 
leopard  was  a  very  fine  old  male  :  in  the  conflict  the  unfortunate  Alert 
was  wounded,  as  usual,  getting  his  face  torn  open ;  he  was  still  going  on 
three  legs,  with  all  his  breast  laid  bare  by  the  first  waterbuck. 

In  the  evening  I  directed  my  Hottentots  to  watch  a  fine  pool  in  the 
river,  and  do  their  best  while  I  rode  to  a  distant  pool  several  miles  up 


AN    OLD    BULL    BUFFALO.  245 

the  Ngotwani,  reported  as  very  good  for  game,  to  lie  all  night  and 
watch  :  my  Totties,  however,  fearing  "  Tao,"  *  disobeyed  me.  As  I  rode 
along  the  river's  bank  I  suddenly  met  a  very  old  bull  buffalo  coming 
down  the  river  on  my  side,  with  a  troop  of  beautiful  water  does  coming 
down  on  the  opposite  side.  I  sprang  from  my  horse,  and  running  down 
the  bank  towards  him  I  sent  a  bullet  through  his  correct  part,  and  a 
second  as  he  charged  up  the  bank.  He  ran  forty  yards  and  stood  look- 
ing about,  and,  detecting  me,  he  turned  towards  me,  looking  very  much 
as  if  he  were  going  to  charge.  I  thought  I  was  in  for  it,  and  stood 
ready  to  spring  down  into  the  long  reeds ;  his  course  was,  however, 
run ;  he  gazed  but  for  a  few  seconds,  and  falling  over  he  expired.  This 
bull  had  many  old  wounds  by  lions.  On  reaching  the  water  I  was 
bound  for,  I  found  it  very  promising,  and,  having  fastened  my  two 
horses  to  a  tree  beneath  the  river's  bank,  I  prepared  a  place  of  conceal- 
ment close  by  and  lay  down  for  the  night. 

The  river's  banks  on  each  side  were  clad  with  groves  of  shady  thorn- 
trees.  After  I  had  lain  some  time,  squadrons  of  buffaloes  were  heard 
coming  on,  until  the  shady  grove  on  the  east  bank  of  the  water  im- 
mediately above  me  was  alive  with  them.  After  some  time  the  leaders 
ventured  down  the  river's  bank  to  drink,  and  this  was  the  signal  for  a 
general  rush  into  the  large  pool  of  water  :  they  came  on  like  a  regiment 
of  cavalry  at  a  gallop,  making  a  mighty  din  and  obscuring  the  air  with 
a  dense  cloud  of  dust.  At  length  I  sent  a  ball  into  one  of  them,  when 
the  most  tremendous  rush  followed  up  the  bank,  where  they  all  stood 
still,  listening  attentively.  I  knew  that  the  buffalo  was  severely 
wounded,  but  I  did  not  hear  him  fall. 

Some  time  after  I  fired  at  a  second,  as  they  stood  on  the  bank  above 
me  ;  this  buffalo  was  also  hard  hit,  but  did  not  then  fall.  A  little  after 
I  fired  at  a  third  on  the  same  spot ;  he  ran  forty  yards,  and  falling 
groaned  fearfully  :  this  at  once  brought  on  a  number  of  the  others  to 
butt  their  dying  comrade,  according  to  their  benevolent  custom.  I  then 
crept  in  towards  them,  and,  firing  my  fourth  shot,  a  second  buffalo  ran 
forward  a  few  yards,  and  falling  groaned  as  the  last ;  her  comrades, 
coming  up,  served  her  in  the  same  manner.  A  second  time  I  crept  in, 
and,  firing  a  fifth  shot,  a  third  buffalo  ran  forward  and  fell  close  to  her 
dying  comrades  :  in  a  few  minutes  all  the  other  buffaloes  made  off,  and 
the  sound  of  teeth  tearing  at  the  flesh  was  heard  immediately. 

I  fancied  it  was  the  hyaenas,  and  fired  a  shot  to  scare  them  from  the 
flesh.  All  was  still :  and,  being  anxious  to  inspect  the  heads  of  the 
buffaloes,  I  went  boldly  forward,  taking  the  native  who  accompanied  me 
along  with  me.  We  were  within  about  five  yards  of  the  nearest  buffalo, 
when  I  observed  a  yellow  mass  lying  alongside  of  him,  and  at  the  same 
instant  a  lion  gave  a  deep  growl.  I  thought  it  was  all  over  with  me. 
The  native  shouted  "  Tao,"  and,  springing  away,  instantly  commenced 
blowing  shrilly  through  a  charmed  piece  of  bone  which  he  wore  on  his 
necklace.  I  retreated  to  the  native ;  and  we  then  knelt  down.  The  lion 
continued  his  meal,  tearing  away  at  the  buffalo,  and  growling  at  his 

*  Tao,  the  native  name  for  lion. 


246    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

wife  and  family,  whom  I  found  next  day  by  the  spoor  had  accompanied 
him.  Knowing  that  he  would  not  molest  me  if  I  left  him  alone,  I  pro- 
posed to  the  native  to  go  to  our  hole  and  lie  down,  but  he  would  not 
hear  of  it,  and  entreated  me  to  fire  at  the  lion.  I  fired  three  different 
shots  where  I  thought  I  saw  him,  but  without  any  effect ;  he  would  not 
so  much  as  for  a  moment  cease  munching  my  buffalo.  I  then  proceeded 
to  lie  down,  and  was  soon  asleep,  the  native  keeping  watch  over  our 
destinies.  Some  time  after  midnight  other  lions  were  heard  coming  on 
from  other  airts,  and  my  old  friend  commenced  roaring  so  loudly  that 
the  native  thought  it  proper  to  awake  me. 

The  first  old  lion  now  wanted  to  drink,  and  held  right  away  for  the 
two  unfortunate  steeds,  roaring  terribly.  I  felt  rather  alarmed  for  their 
safety ;  but,  trusting  that  the  lion  had  had  flesh  enough  for  one  night, 
I  lay  still,  and  listened  with  an  attentive  ear.  In  a  few  minutes,  to  my 
utter  horror,  I  heard  him  spring  upon  one  of  the  steeds  with  an  angry 
growl,  and  dash  him  to  the  earth ;  the  steed  gave  a  slight  groan,  and  all 
was  still.  I  listened  to  hear  the  sound  of  teeth,  but  all  continued  still. 
Soon  after  this  "  Tao"  was  once  more  to  be  heard  munching  the  buffalo. 
In  a  few  minutes  he  came  forward,  and  stood  on  the  bank  close  above  us, 
and  roared  most  terribly,  walking  up  and  down,  as  if  meditating  some 
mischief.  I  now  thought  it  high  time  to  make  a  fire,  and,  quickly 
collecting  some  dry  reeds  and  little  sticks,  in  half  a  minute  we  had  a 
cheerful  blaze.  The  lion,  which  had  not  yet  got  our  wind,  came 
forward  at  once,  to  find  out  what  the  deuce  was  up ;  but,  not  seeing  to 
his  entire  satisfaction  from  the  top  of  the  bank,  he  was  proceeding  to 
descend  by  a  game-path  into  the  river-bed  within  a  few  yards  of  us.  I 
happened  at  the  very  moment  to  go  to  this  spot  to  fetch  more  wood, 
and,  being  entirely  concealed  from  the  lion's  view  by  the  intervening 
high  reeds,  we  actually  met  face  to  face  ! 

The  first  notice  I  got  was  his  sudden  spring  to  one  side,  accompanied 
by  repeated  angry  growls,  whilst  I  involuntarily  made  a  convulsive 
spring  backwards,  at  the  same  time  giving  a  fearful  shriek,  such  as  I 
never  before  remembered  uttering.  I  fancied  just  as  he  growled  that 
he  was  coming  upon  me.  We  now  heaped  on  more  wood,  and  kept  up 
a  very  strong  fire  until  the  day  dawned,  the  lions  feasting  beside  us  all 
the  time,  notwithstanding  the  remonstrances  of  the  little  native,  who, 
with  a  true  Bechuana  spirit,  lamenting  the  loss  of  so  much  good  flesh, 
kept  continually  shouting  and  pelting  them  with  flaming  brands. 

The  next  morning,  when  it  was  clear,  I  arose  and  inspected  the 
buffaloes.  The  three  that  had  fallen  were  fine  old  cows,  and  two  of 
them  were  partly  consumed  by  the  lions.  The  ground  all  around  was 
packed  flat  with  their  spoor ;  one  particular  spoor  was  nearly  as  large  as 
that  of  a  borele\  I  then  proceeded  to  inspect  the  steeds  :  the  sand 
around  them  was  also  covered  with  the  lion's  spoor.  He  had  sprung 
upon  the  Old  Grey,  but  had  done  him  no  further  injury  than  scratching 
his  back  through  the  skin  :  perhaps  the  lion  had  been  scared  by  the 
rheims,  or,  on  discovering  his  spare  condition,  had  preferred  the  buffalo. 

On  the  24th  we  marched  at  dawn  of  day,  and  held  up  the  Ngotwani, 
halting  at  the  fine  large  pool  of  water  where  I  had  shot  the  three  cow 


LION  AND  BUFFALO  SHOOTING.  247 

buffaloes  two  nights  previously.  I  had  left  Euyter  and  some  natives 
to  look  after  my  flesh,  and  these  reported  lions  to  have  surrounded 
them  all  night,  coming  boldly  up  within  a  few  yards  of  them,  and  only 
retreating  when  burning  brands  were  sent  flying  at  their  heads. 

In  the  forenoon  I  shot  a  very  beautifully  coloured  wild  goose  with  my 
Moore,  putting  two  bullets  through  him.  In  the  afternoon  I  rode  up 
the  Ngotwani  to  explore,  I  found  it  generally  well  supplied  with  deep 
pools  of  water,  and  surrounded  with  fine  green  trees,  chiefly  thorn.  I 
made  a  clever  shot  at  two'  wild  geese,  waiting  until  their  heads  were  in 
line,  and  then  pinking  them  both  with  one  bullet.  At  night  I  lay  be- 
side a  favourite  drinking-place  with  the  game ;  in  two  hours  large  herds 
of  buffaloes  were  trampling  on  the  bank  above  me ;  at  length  the  leaders 
came  down  and  commenced  drinking,  which  was  instantly  followed  by 
a  general  rush  of  thirsty  buffaloes.  I  got  one  good  shot,  but  the  dust 
which  instantly  followed  obscured  them  for  another  chance.  I,  however, 
let  drive  into  them  when  they  halted  to  listen  in  the  thicket  above  me. 
I  heard  one  fall  and  die. 

A  little  after  this  a  noble  lion  presented  himself  on  the  bank  above 
me,  and  was  immediately  saluted  with  a  bullet  in  his  ribs.  The 
buffaloes  capered  about  the  banks,  and  at  length  they  descended  by  a 
steep  and  unusual  place  to  drink,  crashing  the  reeds  before  them. 
There  were  three  or  four  old  lions  roaring  close  about  me  all  night,  and 
feasting  on  my  game.  In  the  course  of  the  night  I  fired  three  other 
long  shots  at  the  buffaloes,  and  towards  morning,  a  very  large  lion  and 
a  lioness  presenting  themselves  on  the  horizon  of  the  bank,  about 
twenty  yards  above  me,  I  sent  a  ball  into  the  lion  ;  he  bounded  off,  and 
presently  we  heard  him  growling  as  if  dying ;  he  lay  a  long  time  in  one 
spot.  I  could  hear  the  lioness  bothering  him  to  stand  up,  to  which  he 
objected,  growling  fearfully.  I  felt  convinced  that  he  was  mine,  and  I 
had  good  hopes  of  the  other  lion.  In  the  morning,  when  it  was  clear, 
I  arose  to  see  what  game  had  died ;  I  found  two  fine  old  cow  buffaloes 
with  very  handsome  heads,  but,  to  my  great  regret,  both  the  lions  had 
made  off.  The  day  was  extremely  warm.  I  felt  in  need  of  rest,  and 
slept  most  of  the  day  by  the  water's  margin,  under  cover  of  the  long 
reeds. 

The  26th  was  a  cool  cloudy  morning,  and  looked  like  much  rain.  I 
was  in  the  saddle  before  the  sun  rose,  and  rode  down  the  river  to  seek 
waterbuck,  accompanied  by  all  my  dogs.  I  had  not  ridden  far  when 
the  dogs  dashed  up  the  wind,  and  started  a  large  herd  of  cow  buffaloes, 
to  which  I  gave  chase.  They  led  me  a  long  gallop  right  round  camp, 
and  ended  by  taking  down  wind  up  the  Ngotwani,  and  sought  shelter 
in  the  thorny  thickets  along  its  banks.  Here,  as  a  troop  of  them  charged 
past  me,  I  dismounted  and  shot  one  fine  old  cow ;  she  brought  up  in  a 
thicket,  but  took  two  more  balls  before  she  fell. 

The  dogs  were  now  coursing  up  and  down  the  river's  bank  after  an 
old  cow,  with  her  two  calves  of  this  and  last  year.  At  length  all  three 
took  into  a  deep  pool  some  hundred  yards  long,  and  swam  up  and  down 
and  from  side  to  side,  followed  by  all  the  dogs.  I  wounded  the  old 
cow,  but  would  not  finish  her  then,  and  I  next  shot  the  two  calves,  one 


248  HUNTING  A5D  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

of  which  sank  to  the  bottom,  but  soon  after  floated.  I  then  came  home 
to  my  camp  for  the  natives  to  draw  the  flesh.  Returning,  we  found 
the  old  cow  still  there,  but  standing  in  deep  muddy  water.  She  carried 
a  very  fine  head,  but,  unfortunately,  a  bullet  had  splintered  the  point 
of  one  of  the  horns.  While  we  were  cutting  up  the  veal  the  old  cow 
came  to  the  side,  and  got  away.  I  came  shortly  afterwards,  however, 
upon  a  very  fine  old  cow  buffalo,  newly  killed  by  a  lion,  and  was 
astonished  to  find  that  it  was  my  friend  of  the  morning,  with  the 
splintered  horn.  The  lion,  ever  prowling  about,  had  detected  her,  and, 
after  a  sharp  chase,  had  knocked  her  over.  She  bore  the  most  fearful 
marks  of  his  teeth  on  her  throat,  and  all  her  back  was  marked  by  his 
terrible  claws.  I  thought  that  there  had  been  a  long  chase,  as  the 
buffalo  was  covered  with  foam  from  the  lion's  mouth. 

Having  inspected  the  buffalo  I  held  on  up  the  bank  of  the  river  for  a 
couple  of  miles — banks  densely  wooded — and  I  then  turned  my  face  for 
home,  having  had  a  good  bathe,  and  been  saluted  by  a  crocodile,  who 
popped  up  his  nose  close  beside  me.  I  rode  out  a  little  distance  from  the 
river's  bank,  and  presently  came  upon  four  waterbucks.  The  dogs  at 
once  gave  chase,  and  broke  a  buck  from  the  herd,  which  in  one  minute 
was  standing  at  bay  in  the  river,  when  I  galloped  up,  and,  dismounting, 
I  shot  him. 

Soon  after  this,  while  skirting  some  rocky  hills  bordering  on  the  river, 
I  detected  a  very  fine  old  waterbuck  standing  high  up  on  the  snmmit  of 
one  of  these.  I  stalked  him  in  true  Highland  fashion ;  and  when  within 
seventy  yards  I  sent  my  right  ball  through  his  shoulder.  The  buck 
bounded  over  the  ridge,  and  was  out  of  sight  in  a  moment.  On  gaining 
the  ridge,  with  my  gun  at  the  ready,  I  came  once  more  within  range, 
when  I  sent  a  second  bullet  through  his  ribs.  While  following  his 
bloody  spoor  I  heard  groans  on  the  bank  a  little  above  me,  and,  going 
forward,  I  found  a  noble  waterbuck  lying  dying,  with  the  blood  stream- 
ing from  his  mouth.  When  the  life  was  gone  I  cut  off  his  head,  which 
was  borne  to  camp  before  my  after-rider. 

The  morning  of  the  27th  was  extremely  hot,  but  I  nevertheless  resolved 
to  pack  up  and  march  to  Ohouaney.  Accordingly,  after  much  trouble 
and  management  in  stowing  away  all  my  lumber,  we  got  under  way 
about  eleven  A.M.,  and  reached  Sichely's  a  little  aftersundown.  On  the 
march  one  of  my  waggon's  after-wheels  rolled  off",  but  very  fortunately, 
the  axletree  escaped.  I  found  Mr.  Livingstone  at  his  devotions,  and  he 
informed  me  that  it  was  Sunday. 

The  next  day  was  deliciously  cloudy,  with  some  slight  showers  of  rain. 
In  the  evening  Sichely  came  down  to  see  me,  bringing  my  four  lost  oxen 
which  he  had  at  length  made  up  his  mind  to  restore.  Three  of  Sichely's 
men  engaged  to  accompany  me  to  the  colony,  their  wages  to  be  three 
guns  and  two  cows. 

I  now  proceeded  slowly  by  way  of  Lotlokane,  Motito,  and  Campbells- 
dorp,  and  encamped  on  the  Vaal  River  on  the  11th  of  November.  Here 
I  was  obliged  to  wait  for  several  days,  owing  to  the  great  body  of  water 
coming  down  rendering  a  passage  impossible. 

On  the  16th,  however,  the  river  having  subsided,  I  inspanned  my  two 


A  PERILOUS  POSITION.  249 

waggons,  and  took  the  drift  with  the  heaviest  waggon,  drawn  by  four- 
teen oxen.  I  led  the  team  on  horseback,  and,  several  Griquas  assisting 
us,  we  took  the  drift  very  high,  and  got  a  little  more  than  half-way 
through  when  two  of  my  oxen  became  entangled  in  the  gear,  and,  being 
dragged  along,  my  driver  foolishly  halted  the  waggon.  The  result  of 
this  foolish  management  was,  that  the  oxen  instantly  turned  right-about- 
face,  and  stood  with  their  heads  up  water,  the  stream  being  too  powerful 
for  them  to  stand  still  otherwise.  We  spent  a  fruitless  hour  of  very 
harassing  work,  trying  to  right  the  oxen,  which  was,  however  impossible, 
and  at  length  we  were  obliged  to  cut  away  the  trektow,  and  get  the 
oxen  ashore. 

Here,  after  resting  them  for  a  little,  we  inspanned  them  in  the  trek- 
tow, and,  taking  them  some  distance  above  the  isolated  waggon,  we 
swam  them  down,  and  tried  to  fix  the  trektow  on  the  dissel-boom ;  but 
in  this  we  failed,  the  stream  carrying  away  the  cattle  before  they  made 
the  waggon.  We  had  then  to  go  ashore  and  repeat  the  process.  In  the 
next  attempt  the  oxen  were  brought  too  near  the  waggon,  and,  getting 
foul  of  it,  we  had  great  difficulty  in  extricating  them.  One  ox  remained 
there  for  half  an  hour  before  we  got  him  clear,  the  strong  current 
holding  him  against  the  waggon.  We  next  got  over  the  oxen  and  trek- 
tow of  the  other  waggon,  and  made  several  attempts  with  these,  but 
without  success. 

The  day  was  now  waning  away,  and  both  men  and  oxen  were  very 
much  knocked  up.  It  was  most  distressing  work,  and  it  was  greatly 
aggravated  by  the  cruel,  sharp  stones  which  composed  the  river's  bed, 
and  the  virulent  invisible  doublegee-thorns  with  which  the  banks  were 
strewed.  I  began  to  despair  of  getting  the  waggon  out  that  day  ;  and 
from  the  appearance  of  the  weather  toward  the  sources  of  the  river  for 
some  time  past,  we  had  every  reason  to  expect  a  flood  at  any  moment. 
It  was  a  dismal  prospect,  and  my  heart  was  ill  at  ease.  Late  in  the  day 
we  made  loose  my  strong  new  buffalo  trektow,  and  bent  it  on  to  the 
dissel-boom,  and  then,  bringing  in  the  oxen,  we  managed  to  fasten  the 
tow  on  to  this  one.  I  also  placed  several  men  on  the  wheels.  This 
time  we  very  nearly  succeeded ;  the  waggon  started  and  proceeded 
several  yards,  when  one  of  the  tows  gave  way,  and  we  were  again  left 
in  the  lurch.  Once  more  we  made  the  attempt,  and  again  failed,  the 
oxen  becoming  entangled  with  the  gear.  The  sun  was  now  under,  and, 
all  hands  being  most  completely  done  up,  we  desisted  for  the  night. 
My  men  came  off  to  the  waggon  with  three  of  my  steeds,  and  I  rum- 
maged out  some  flesh,  meal,  and  coffee,  with  some  sleeping  toggery  and 
cooking  utensils ;  we  then  left  the  desolate  waggon,  with  great  doubts 
of  ever  boarding  it  again. 

I  could  not  help  thinking  of  Robinson  Crusoe  when  he  visited  for  the 
last  time  the  wreck  of  his  ship.  I  rested  but  little  that  night,  and  I  had 
good  reason  to  be  anxious  ;  for  if  the  river  should  come  down  at  all,  it 
would  be  impossible  to  do  anything  with  the  waggon  next  day,  and  I 
could  not  expect  anything  but  to  see  a  tearing  flood.  If  this  had 
happened  I  should  have  been  utterly  ruined,  for  nearly  all  my  worldly 
property  was  contained  in  the  waggon.      I  sent  a  message  to  Mr. 


250   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

Hughes,  requesting  him  to  assist  me  in  my  troubles  with  men  and  oxen 
next  day,  although  it  was  the  Sabbath. 

I  had  the  gratification  to  find  at  daydawn  that  the  river  had  fallen  a 
little  during  the  night ;  and  I  had  just  finished  my  breakfast  when  four 
Griquas  came  up,  bearing  a  long  stout  rope,  which  Mr.  Hughes  had 
forwarded  for  my  use.  These  men  informed  me  that  he  had  sent  men 
out  in  different  directions  to  seek  for  three  spans  of  his  oxen  to  be 
brought  to  my  assistance.  We  then  set  about  getting  the  gear  in  order, 
and  very  soon  two  spans  of  the  oxen  appeared  with  another  party  of 
Griquas.  We  next  made  fast  one  end  of  the  rope  to  the  dissel-boom, 
and  to  the  other  end  of  this  rope  we  fastened  the  large  buffalo  trektow, 
which  reached  slanting  across  the  strong  current  to  shallower  water 
where  the  oxen  could  stand.  We  then  brought  in  two  span  of  oxen, 
and  fastened  the  end  of  their  tow  on  the  buffalo,  and  put  the  oxen  in 
motion.  They  laid  a  mighty  strain  on  the  long  tow,  and  the  waggon 
moved  slightly,  when  a  strong  rheim,  that  with  many  turns  fastened  two 
of  the  trektows,  gave  way,  and  left  me  once  more  in  trouble. 

The  river  had  at  this  moment  increased  about  six  inches,  and  was 
now  stronger  than  on  the  preceding  day ;  moreover  it  was  still 
increasing.  This  put  me  at  once  in  great  consternation;  my  hopes, 
which  a  little  before  were  very  high,  now  sank,  and  I  expected  in  a  few 
hours  perhaps  to  see  my  waggon  overwhelmed  and  swept  away.  This, 
however,  was  not  the  case ;  the  river  did  not  increase  much  more,  and 
in  our  second  attempt  we  were  successful.  The  trektows  were  on  this 
occasion  knotted  together,  the  oxen  all  trekked  fair  and  together,  and 
the  heavily-laden  waggon,  with  its  precious  contents,  was  rescued  from 
a  watery  grave.  We  hailed  its  rescue  with  continued  cheers  :  the  oxen 
held  stoutly  on,  and  dragged  the  waggon  without  a  check  right  out  to 
the  shallow  water  on  the  border  of  the  river.  We  then  shortened  the 
gear,  and,  having  inspanned  two  after-bullocks,  we  pulled  the  waggon 
right  out  of  the  river's  bed  and  outspanned  on  the  top  of  the  high  bank. 

The  next  move  was  to  get  the  other  waggons  through.  The  Griquas 
at  first  made  some  demur,  saying  that  it  was  Sunday  ;  but  I  very  soon 
got  rid  of  that  objection,  by  telling  them  that  I  would  prepare  some 
food  and  coffee  for  them,  when  they  set  to  work  with  a  good  will,  and 
in  two  hours  more  the  other  three  waggons  were  brought  safely  through, 
and  were  high  and  dry. 

On  the  8th  we  entered  the  village  of  Colesberg.  All  the  forenoon  I 
was  busy  off-loading  two  of  the  waggons.  We  spread  out  the  curiosities 
in  the  market-ground,  making  no  end  of  a  parade  :  it  was  truly  a  very 
remarkable  sight,  and  struck  all  beholders  with  astonishment. 

On  the  13th  I  left  Colesberg,  and  set  out  on  my  way  to  Grahamstown ; 
passing  on  the  17th  the  Thebus  flats.  On  the  march  I  saddled  up,  and, 
leaving  the  waggons,  I  rode  across  country  for  Hendrick  Strydom's 
farm,  where  I  had  commenced  my  sporting  career  in  South  Africa.  As 
I  rode  across  the  flats  I  found  springbok  and  black  wildebeest  still 
abundant.  On  reaching  the  residence  of  my  former  friend,  I  found  the 
blackness  of  desolation  pictured  there.  The  house  was  falling  to  pieces, 
and  the  grass  grew  rank  where  the  pot  was  wont  to  boil.     In  a  melan- 


ft." 

< 

u 


ANOTHER  ELEPHANT  EXPEDITION.        251 

choly  mood  I  then  turned  my  face  for  the  farm  where  I  had  ordered  my 
waggons  to  halt;  and,  as  I  rode  along,  I  mused  on  the  fleeting  and  tran- 
sient nature  of  all  human  condition.  On  the  25th  I  reached  Fort  Beau- 
fort, where  I  dined  with  some  old  acquaintances  at  the  mess  of  the  7th. 

On  the  29th  we  marched  to  the  Fish  River  at  dawn  of  day.  Here  I 
found  about  sixty  waggons  waiting  the  fall  of  the  river  to  get  through. 
Some  of  us  set  to  work  to  clear  away  a  bank  of  mud  on  the  opposite  side, 
after  which  a  good  many  waggons,  lightly  laden,  crossed  the  river ;  but  on 
attempting  to  bring  through  my  large  waggon,  she  stuck  fast,  but  was  at 
length  extricated  with  the  help  of  another  span.  We  saved  her  just  in 
time,  for  the  river  was  increasing  fast  when  we  got  her  out,  and  in 
another  half-hour  was  running  a  rapid  torrent,  at  least  ten  feet  deep. 
I  found  several  very  jolly  farmers,  English  and  Scotch,,  lying  on  the 
opposite  side ;  in  particular,  one  Annesley,  of  whom  I  had  heard  a  great 
deal.  This  man  was  a  regular  "  brick,"  a  thorough  Scotsman  from  the 
borders.  He  came  up  to  me  at  once,  and  asked  me  to  come  and  have  a 
glass  of  whisky  with  him  :  he  was  accompanied  by  his  family ;  his  eldest 
daughter  was  a  very  fine  girl. 

By  the  1st  of  February  the  river  had  fallen  most  rapidly.  After  some 
work  in  clearing  the  mud  on  both  sides,  waggons  began  to  cross,  and  a 
great  rumpus  was  kept  up  during  the  remainder  of  the  day.  I  got  my 
second  waggon  through  about  eleven  A.M.  Soon  after  I  had  got  through 
good  old  Annesley  took  the  drift,  and  on  approaching  the  opposite  side 
his  waggon  had  the  most  fearful  capsize  in  deep  water,  seriously  damag- 
ing a  quantity  of  very  valuable  property.  In  an  instant  we  were  all  at 
his  assistance,  and  in  a  very  short  time  we  got  out  his  wife  and  family 
and  damaged  cargo  and  righted  his  waggon  for  him.  I  brought  him  over 
dry  clothes,  and  spent  about  three  hours  in  assisting  him  in  his  difficulty. 
I  then  inspanned  and  trekked  on  to  Boatasberg,  where  I  halted  about 
midnight,  with  good  moonlight. 

On  the  2nd  I  marched  into  Grahamstown,  where  I  sold  my  ivory  well, 
the  ivory  and  ostrich-feathers  realising  in  the  market  somewhere  about 
£1000. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


Start  on  another  Elephant-shooting  Expedition — The  Hart  River — Numerous  pack 
of  Wild  Dogs — Mahura,  Chief  of  the  Batlapis — Rumours  of  Wars-— The 
Meritsane — Lotlokane — Encounter  with  two  Lions  on  the  Molopo — Chouaney — 
A  tremendous  Fight  with  a  Buffalo — The  River  Limpopo — Huge  Crocodiles — 
A  splendid  Hippopotamus  falls  to  my  Rifle — Immense  Herds  of  Buffaloes 
crossing  the  River — The  Serolomootlooque  Antelope  unknown  to  Naturalists — 
A  herd  of  Hippopotami — Fine  Sport  beside  the  River. 

I  remained  in  Grahamstown  for  some  weeks,  being  undecided  as  to  my 
future  plans.  At  last,  however,  I  decided  upon  making  another 
elephant-shooting  expedition.  I  accordingly  started  for  the  far  interior 
on  the  11th  of  March,  and,  having  resolved  to  try  a  short  cut  through 
the  territories  of  the  chief  Mahura,  I  crossed  the  Yaal  river  on  the  5th 
of  May,  far  to  the  eastward  of  my  former  track. 


252     HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

Early  on  the  7th  we  entered  upon  the  broad  strath  through  which 
the  Hart  River  flows.  Here  we  discovered  a  small  fountain,  where  we 
halted  for  the  night.  We  marched  early  on  the  8th,  holding  up  the 
strath  parallel  with  the  Hart  River.  Presently  we  came  upon  the 
largest  pack  of  wild  dogs  I  had  ever  seen  :  there  were  about  forty  of 
them.  They  went  off  very  leisurely,  and  when  my  dogs  chased  them 
they  turned  about  and  showed  fight.  We  were  in  motion  most  of  the 
day  •  very  large  herds  of  cattle  were  to  be  seen  pasturing  on  all  sides. 

On  the  12th  we  marched  before  breakfast  to  within  three  miles  of 
Mahura.  Having  taken  breakfast,  I  rode  ahead  with  Ruyter,  and  called 
on  Mr.  Ross,  the  resident  missionary.  We  walked  together  to  the  town 
and  visited  Mahura  and  his  brother ;  the  expressions  of  neither  of  these 
men  were  at  all  in  their  favour.  I  told  Mahura  that  I  wanted  an  ox 
with  very  large  horns,  which  he  promised  to  provide.  He  asked  me  if 
we  were  still  at  war  with  the  Tambookie  tribes.  He  also  mentioned 
that  ten  men  of  the  Bastards  had  been  shot  by  Mochesse's  natives  Mr. 
Ross  informed  me  that  Mahura  was  at  present  meditating  war  upon  a 
tribe  to  the  north-east,  and  also  that  Mochuarra,  the  chief  at  Motito, 
meditated  an  attack  upon  Sichely.  In  the  evening -my  waggons  came 
up,  when  I  directed  them  to  draw  up  in  a  grove  of  cameel-dorn  about  a 
mile  beyond  the  town. 

The  next  day  Mahura  sent  a  party  of  men  to  inquire  who  had  given 
me  permission  to  outspan  where  I  now  stood,  and  ordering  me  to  inspan 
and  return  to  the  town.  These  men  were  very  insolent  and  overbearing 
in  their  manner.  I  accordingly  at  once  assumed  a  very  high  tone,  and 
said  that,  if  Mahura  was  particular  as  to  where  I  outspanned,  he  ought 
to  have  told  me  so  on  the  preceding  evening ;  that  as  to  returning,  I 
would  on  no  account  return  ;  and  that  if  the  chief's  heart  was  against 
me  I  would  not  wait  to  trade  with  him,  but  would  at  once  proceed  on 
my  journey.  I  also  told  them  that  Mahura  was  not  my  chief,  and  that 
I  cared  not  for  his  words.  They  then  became  still  more  insolent,  and 
said  that  I  should  learn  what  Mahura  could  do  before  sunset,  and  they 
departed  to  report  my  words  to  their  tyrannical  chief. 

Mahura  was  sitting  in  the  missionary's  house  :  accordingly  I  rode 
thither  and  arrived  along  with  these  men.  On  my  words  being  reported, 
he  was  at  first  exceedingly  wroth,  and  said  that  in  consequence  of  what 
I  had  said  he  would  not  permit  me  to  proceed  through  his  country.  I 
only  smiled  at  threats  ;  and  he  eventually  cooled  down,  and  took  leave 
of  us  apparently  in  good  humour.  In  the  evening  he  returned  and  took 
tea  with  Mr  Ross  and  myself,  and  then  accompanied  me  to  camp ;  he  rode 
on  horseback  in  a  large  white  great-coat,  accompanied  by  his  brother  and 
two  other  mounted  attendants.  I  showed  him  all  my  rifles,  with  which 
he  expressed  himself  much  pleased ;  having  drunk  his  coffee,  he  took  a 
friendly  leave,  promising  to  visit  me  early  next  day. 

True  to  his  word,  Mahura  came  and  breakfasted  with  me,  after  which 
I  obtained  six  karosses  from  him  in  barter  for  ammunition.  I  then 
presented  him  with  a  whipstick  and  two  pound  of  powder,  and  walked 
down  to  the  missionary's  house,  ordering  my  men  to  inspan.    Mahura  pro- 


TWO     FINE    LIONS.  253 

mised  to  come  thither  and  take  leave  of  me,  but  did  not  keep  his  word. 
About  midday  I  marched,  holding  a  spoor  of  three  waggons  some  months 
old,  said  to  lead  me  into  my  old  course  at  Great  Chooi. 

On  the  20th  we  reached  the  bank  of  the  Meristane,  two  miles  below  my 
old  spoor.  On  the  march  we  saw  for  the  first  time  spoor  of  the  black 
rhinoceros,  also  pallah  and  koodoo  on  the  mountain,  and  hartebeests  on 
the  open  country, 

On  the  22nd  we  marched  at  early  dawn,  and,  having  proceeded 
about  four  miles,  left  the  main  road  to  Bakatla,  and  held  across-country 
to  our  right  for  my  old  out-spanning  place  at  Lotlokane  ;  two  hours  more 
brought  us  thither.  I  did  not  find  the  vast  herds  of  game  congregated 
here  as  usual,  water  being  everywhere  abundant ;  the  grass  over  the 
whole  country  was  remarkable,  being  much  higher  than  my  oxen. 

On  the  23rd,  when  within  two  miles  of  the  Molopo,  the  dogs  took 
up  the  scent  of  lions.  I  then  halted  my  waggons,  and,  having 
saddled  up  my  two  horses,  I  rode  with  Euyter  in  quest  of  them,  ac- 
companied by  ten  of  my  dogs,  who  kept  the  scent  for  a  short 
distance,  and  at  last  lost  it  altogether,  and  went  off  in  the  scent 
of  some  hartebeests.  I  now  rode  forward  to  the  Molopo,  which  I 
made  about  one  mile  lower  down  than  the  drift.  This  darling  little 
river  is  here  completely  concealed  by  lofty  reeds  and  long  grass  which 
densely  clothe  its  margin  to  a  distance  of  at  least  a  hundred  yards.  On 
each  side  reitbuck  were  very  abundant.  On  making  the  river  we 
started  one  of  these.  I  rode  up  the  river  side,  and  immediately 
observed  two  old  lions  come  slowly  out  from  the  adjoining  cover 
and  slant  off  toward  the  reeds.  I  galloped  forward  to  endeavour 
to  get  between  them  and  the  reeds ;  in  this  I  succeeded.  The  lions, 
imagining  that  we  were  some  species  of  game,  did  not  attempt  to 
retreat,  but  stood  looking  in  wonder  until  I  was  within  'fifty  yards  of 
them,  and  right  between  the  last  lion  and  the  reeds.  I  was  struck  with 
wonder  and  admiration  at  the  majestic  and  truly  awful  appearance 
which  these  two  noble  old  lions  presented. 

They  were  both  very  large  ;  the  first,  a  "schwart  fore-life,"  or  black- 
maned  lion, — the  last,  which  was  the  finest  and  the  oldest,  a  "chiell 
fore-life,"  or  yellow-maned  lion.  The  black-maned  lion,  after  looking  at 
me  for  half  a  minute,  walked  slowly  forward  and  bounded  into  the  reeds ; 
the  dark-brown  lion  would  fain  have  done  the  same,  but  I  was  now  right 
between  him  and  his  retreat.  He  seemed  not  at  all  to  like  my  appear- 
ance, but  he  did  not  yet  feel  certain  what  I  was,  and,  fancying  that  I 
had  not  observed  him,  he  lay  down  in  the  long  grass.  Euyter  now 
came  up  with  my  rifle.  Having  loaded  in  the  saddle,  I  waited  a  minute 
for  all  my  dogs  to  come  up,  they  having  gone  off  after  the  reitbuck,  and 
I  then  rode  slowly  forward  towards  the  lion  as  if  to  pass  within  twenty- 
five  yards  of  him.  Not  one  of  the  dogs  was  yet  aware  of  the  lion,  and 
they  came  on  behind  my  horse. 

This  move  on  my  part  lost  me  the  lion,  for  by  so  doing  I  laid  open 
the  ground  of  retreat  between  him  and  the  reeds  ;  and  on  coming  within 
twenty  or  twenty-five  yards  of  him,  and  whilst  in  the  act  of  reining  in 
my  horse  to  fire,  he  took  his  eye  off  me,  examined  the  ground  between 

16 


254    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

him  and  the  reeds,  and,  seeing  the  coast  clear,  he  suddenly  bounded 
forward,  and,  before  I  could  even  dismount  from  my  panic-stricken 
steed,  was  at  the  edge  of  the  reeds,  which  he  entered  with  a  lofty  spring, 
making  the  water  fly  as  he  pitched  into  it.  Several  of  the  dogs  entered 
after  him,  but  immediately  retreated,  barking  over  their  shoulders  in 
great  fear.  Thus  I  lost  this  most  noble  lion,  which,  with  better 
management,  I  might  easily  have  slain.  I  ought  to  have  approached 
him  on  foot,  leading  my  steed,  and  I  ought  not  to  have  laid  open  the 
ground  of  retreat. 

On  the  27th  we  trekked  to  Chouaney,  which  we  reached  at  sundown, 
and  remained  there  to  trade  next  day.  I  obtained  from  Sichely  two 
natives  to  accompany  me  to  the  Limpopo,  their  pay  being  a  musket 
each.  I  got  also  from  the  chief  twelve  elephants'  teeth,  several  very  fine 
karosses,  native  arms,  and  other  curiosities. 

About  midday  we  marched,  and  slept  near  the  Ngotwani,  along  whose 
banks  my  course  lay  for  the  Limpopo.  The  country  through  which  the 
Ngotwani  twines  is  soft  and  sandy,  and  in  general  covered  with  dense 
thorny  jungle  which  greatly  impeded  our  progress,  having  constantly  to 
cut  a  passage  before  the  waggons  could  advance.  Several  lions  com- 
menced roaring  around  us  soon  after  the  sun  went  down. 

On  the  evening  of  the  next  day  I  had  a  glorious  row  with  an  old  bull 
buffalo  :  he  was  the  only  large  bull  in  a  fine  herd  of  cows.  I  found 
their  spoor  while  walking  ahead  of  the  waggons,  and,  following  it  up,  I 
came  upon  a  part  of  the  herd  feeding  quietly  in  a  dense  part  of  the 
forest.  I  fired  my  first  shot  at  a  cow,  which  I  wounded.  The  other 
half  of  the  herd  then  came  up  right  in  my  face,  within  six  yards  of  me. 
They  would  have  trampled  on  me  if  I  had  not  sung  out  in  their  faces 
and  turned  them.  I  selected  the  old  bull  and  sent  a  bullet  into  his 
shoulder.  The  herd  then  crashed  along  through  the  jungle  to  my  right, 
but  he  at  once  broke  away  from  them  and  took  to  my  left.  On 
examining  his  spoor,  I  found  it  bloody.  I  then  went  to  meet  my 
waggons,  which  I  heard  coming  on,  and,  ordering  the  men  to  outspan, 
I  took  all  my  dogs  to  the  spoor.  They  ran  it  up  in  fine  style,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  the  silence  of  the  forest  was  disturbed  by  a  tremendous 
bay.  On  running  towards  the  sound  I  met  the  old  fellow  coming  on 
towards  the  waggons,  with  all  my  dogs  after  him.  I  saluted  him  with 
a  second  ball  in  the  shoulder ;  he  held  on  and  took  up  a  position  in  the 
thicket  within  forty  yards  of  the  waggons,  where  I  finished  him.  He 
carried  a  most  splendid  head. 

On  the  8th  of  June  we  made  the  long-wish ed-f or  fair  Limpopo  an  hour 
before  sunset.  I  was  at  once  struck  with  this  most  interesting  river  : 
the  trees  along  its  banks  were  of  prodigious  size  and  very  great  beauty. 
At  the  very  spot  where  I  made  the  water,  a  huge  crocodile  lay  upon  the 
sand  on  the  opposite  side ;  on  observing  me  he  dashed  into  the  stream. 

The  next  day  I  rode  ahead  of  the  waggons  with  Ruyter,  and  hunted 
along  the  bank  of  the  river.  I  immediately  shot  a  waterbuck.  This 
animal  and  pallah  were  very  abundant.  As  I  advanced  I  found  large 
vleys  along  the  river  side,  a  favourite  haunt  of  the  waterbuck.  After 
breakfast  I  again  rode  forth  with  fresh  horses  with  my  Bushman.    Wo 


AN    ENORMOUS    CROCODILE.  255 


still  found  waterbuck  and  pallah  very  abundant.  I  presently  gave 
chase  to  a  herd  of  the  former  to  try  their  speed ;  but  as  they  led  me 
into  the  midst  of  a  labyrinth  of  marshy  vleys,  I  gave  it  up. 

At  that  instant  the  Bushman  whispered  "  Sir,  Sir  • "  and  looking  to 
my  right,  two  princely  old  bull  buffaloes  stood  in  the  jungle  within  forty 
yards  of  me.  They  got  my  wind,  and  started  before  I  could  get  ready 
to  fire.  They  held  along  the  river-bank  ahead  of  me,  but  not  requiring 
them  I  did  not  give  chase.  After  this  I  came  upon  a  huge  crocodile 
basking  on  the  sand,  which  instantly  dashed  into  the  stream.  I  now 
got  into  a  vast  labyrinth  of  marshes  of  great  extent.  Several  species  of 
wild  duck  and  a  variety  of  water-fowl  were  extremely  abundant  and 
very  tame,  hundreds  passing  before  my  eye  at  once ;  guinea-fowl,  three 
sorts  of  large  partridge,  and  two  kinds  of  quail  being  likewise  numerous. 

I  presently  wounded  a  noble  old  waterbuck  as  he  dashed  past  me  in 
marshy  ground.  In  following  him  up  I  met  an  old  buck  pallah,  which 
I  killed  on  the  spot  with  a  shot  in  the  middle  of  the  breast.  Following 
on  after  the  wounded  waterbuck,  along  the  high  bank  of  the  river,  which 
was,  however,  concealed  from  my  view  by  the  dense  cover,  I  suddenly 
heard  a  loud  splash,  and,  coming  suddenly  clear  of  the  cover,  I  beheld 
the  lovely  waterbuck  standing  broadside  on  an  island  in  the  middle  of 
the  river.  Before  I  could  dismount  to  fire,  he  dashed  into  the  water 
and  swam  to  the  opposite  bank.  I  grasped  my  trusty  little  Moore  and 
waited  till  he  won  the  terra  firma,  when  with  one  well-directed  shot  I 
dropped  him  on  the  spot.  A  very  strange  thing  then  occurred ;  the 
buck  in  his  death-pangs  slid  down  into  the  river,  and  continuing  his 
struggles  he  swam  half-way  across  the  river  back  to  the  island,  where 
he  lay  upon  a  sand-bank.  I  then  divested  myself  of  my  leathers,  spurs, 
and  veldtschoens,  and  was  wading  in  to  fetch  him,  when  the  river  carried 
him  off,  and,  fearing  the  horrible  crocodiles,  I  did  not  attempt  to  follow. 
It  was  now  late,  and  I  rode  for  my  waggon-spoor,  which  I  failed  to  find 
until  I  had  returned  to  where  we  had  that  morning  breakfasted.  I  had 
been  following  the  turns  of  the  river,  and  the  waggons  had  taken  a  short 
cut  across  the  country.    I  reached  them  in  the  dark  by  great  good  luck. 

On  the  10th  I  rode  ahead  of  my  waggons  at  day-dawn :  thick  mist 
was  rolling  along  the  Limpopo.  Presently  I  saw  two  crocodiles  in  the 
stream  below  me.  A  little  after  I  had  the  pleasure  to  find,  for  the  first 
time,  the  spoor  of  sea-cows  or  hippopotami.  I  had  never  before  seen  it, 
but  I  knew  it  must  be  theirs ;  it  was  very  similar  to  the  spoor  of  borel6, 
or  black  rhinoceros,  but  larger,  and  had  four  toes  instead  of  three. 
Before  returning  to  my  waggons  I  tried  to  ride  down  a  waterbuck  which 
I  turned  off  from  the  river,  but  in  this  I  failed,  though  I  managed  to 
keep  close  to  him  in  the  chase,  and  eventually  to  knock  him  up  along 
with  my  horse. 

I  again  sallied  forth  with  the  Bushman  and  fresh  steeds,  and,  directing 
the  waggons  to  take  the  straight  course,  I  followed  the  windings  of  the 
river.  Presently,  looking  over  the  bank,  I  beheld  three  enormous 
crocodiles  basking  on  the  sand  on  the  opposite  side.  I  was  astonished 
at  their  awful  appearance  and  size,  one  of  them  appearing  to  me  to  be 
sixteen  or  eighteen  feet  in  length,  with  a  body  as  thick  as  that  of  an  ox. 


256  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

On  observing  us  they  plunged  into  the  dead  water  by  the  side  of  the 
stream.  The  next  minute,  one  of  them  popping  up  his  terrible  head  in 
the  middle  of  the  stream,  I  made  a  beautiful  shot,  and  sent  a  ball  through 
the  middle  of  his  brains.  The  convulsions  of  death  which  followed  were 
truly  awful.  At  first  he  sank  for  an  instant  to  the  shot,  but  instantly 
striking  the  bottom  with  his  tail  he  shot  up  above  the  water,  when  he 
struggled  violently,  sometimes  on  his  back  and  then  again  on  his  belly, 
with  at  one  time  his  head  and  fore  feet  above  the  water,  and  immediately 
after  his  tail  and  hind  legs,  the  former  lashing  the  water  with  a  force 
truly  astounding.  Clouds  of  sand  accompanied  him  in  all  his  movements, 
the  strong  stream  carrying  him  along  with  it,  till  at  length  the  struggle 
of  death  was  over,  and  he  sank  to  rise  no  more. 

Following  the  windings  of  the  river  I  detected  a  small  crocodile 
basking  on  the  sand,  when  I  gave  him  a  shot  and  he  instantly  plunged 
into  the  river.  A  little  farther  on  I  wounded  a  third  as  he  lay  on  a 
promontory  of  sand,  and  he  likewise  made  the  water.  A  little  farther 
down  the  stream,  yet  another  crocodile,  a  huge  old  sinner,  lay  basking 
on  the  sand.  I  determined  to  make  a  very  correct  shot  in  this  case, 
and  set  about  stalking  him.  Creeping  up  behind  the  trunk  of  a  prostrate 
old  tree,  I  took  a  rest  and  sent  the  ball  into  his  nostril,  when  he 
plunged  into  the  river,  colouring  the  water  with  his  blood. 

We  now  got  into  a  fine  green  turn  of  the  river,  where  I  saw  a  great 
many  waterbucks.  I  shot  one  buck  pallah,  and  immediately  after  I 
came  suddenly  upon  a  troop  of  five  or  six  beautiful  leopards.  At  the 
next  bend  of  the  river  three  huge  crocodiles  lay  on  the  sand  on  the 
opposite  side.  Stalking  within  easy  range,  I  shot  one  of  them  in  the 
head  :  his  comrades  instantly  dashed  into  the  water,  but  he  lay  as  if 
dead  on  the  high  sand.  A  second  shot,  however,  through  the  ribs 
brought  him  back  to  life.  On  receiving  it  he  kept  running  round  and 
round,  snapping  his  horrid  jaws  fearfully  at  his  own  wounded  side.  In  • 
the  convulsions  of  death  he  made  one  run  clean  away  from  the  water, 
but  another  unlucky  turn  brought  his  head  toward  the  river,  into  which 
he  eventually  rolled. 

Galloping  along  from  this  place  to  my  waggons,  I  came  suddenly  upon 
a  lion  and  lioness  lying  in  the  grass  below  a  gigantic  old  mimosa.  Dis- 
mounting from  my  horse,  I  took  a  couple  of  shots  at  the  lion,  missing 
him  with  my  first,  but  wounding  him  with  my  second  shot,  when  he 
rose  with  several  angry  short  growls  and  bounded  off.  A  few  hundred 
yards  farther  on  I  found  my  waggons  drawn  up,  and  on  reaching  them 
my  men  informed  me  that  they  had  just  seen  two  huge  hippopotami  in 
the  river  beneath.  Proceeding  to  the  spot,  we  found  them  still  swim- 
ming there.  I  shot  one,  putting  three  balls  into  his  head,  when  he  sank, 
but  night  setting  in  we  lost  him. 

At  dawn  of  day  on  the  12th  a  noise  was  heard  for  about  twenty 
minutes  up  the  river,  like  the  sound  of  the  sea,  accompanied  by  the 
lowing  of  buffaloes.  It  was  a  herd  crossing  the  river.  I  rode  thither 
to  look  at  them,  and  was  retracing  my  steps  to  camp,  when,  within 
three  hundred  yards  of  my  waggons,  I  beheld  an  old  bull-buffalo  standing 
contemplating  my  camp,  with  my  followers  looking  at  him  in  great 


A    LOVELY    ANTELOPE.  257 

consternation.  They  set  the  dogs  after  him,  when  he  took  away  up  the 
river.  As  the  ground  was  extremely  bad  for  riding,  being  full  of  deep 
holes,  and  all  concealed  with  long  grass,  it  was  some  time  before  I  could 
get  away  after  the  dogs  ;  and  when  I  had  ridden  a  short  distance  I  met 
them  all  returning,  their  feet  being  completely  done  up  with  the  long 
march  from  the  colony. 

I  now  turned  my  face  once  more  for  camp,  when  I  heard  one  of  my 
dogs  at  bay  behind  me.  Galloping  up  to  the  spot,  I  found  my  dog 
""Lion  "  standing  barking  at  an  old  waterbuck  in  an  open  flat.  The 
buck,  on  observing  me,  made  away  for  the  river,  and,  joining  a  herd  of 
does,  they  dashed  into  the  stream,  and  were  immediately  upon  the 
opposite  bank.  I  was  in  a  sequestered  bend  of  the  river,  where  the 
banks  for  several  acres  were  densely  clad  with  lofty  reeds  and  grass 
which  towered  above  my  head  as  I  sat  on  my  horse's  back.  Beyond  the 
reeds  and  grass  were  trees  of  all  sizes,  forming  a  dense  shade ;  this  is  the 
general  character  of  the  banks  of  the  Limpopo,  as  far  as  I  have  yet  seen. 

I  was  slowly  returning  to  my  camp,  in  anything  but  good  humour  at 
my  want  of  success  with  the  game  I  had  just  been  after,  when,  behold, 
an  antelope  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty,  and  utterly  unknown  to 
sportsmen  or  naturalists,  stood  broadside  in  my  path,  looking  me  full  in 
the  face.  It  was  a  princely  old  buck  of  the  serolomootlooque  of  the 
Bakalahari,  or  bushbuck  of  the  Limpopo.  He  carried  a  very  fine  wide- 
set  pair  of  horns.  On  beholding  him  I  was  struck  with  wonder  and 
delight.  My  heart  beat  with  excitement.  I  sprang  from  my  saddle, 
but  before  I  could  fire  a  shot  this  gem  of  beauty  bounded  into  the  reeds, 
and  was  lost  to  my  sight.  At  that  moment  I  would  have  given  half 
what  I  possessed  in  this  world  for  a  broadside  at  that  lovely  antelope, 
and  I  at  once  resolved  not  to  proceed  farther  on  my  expedition  until  I 
had  captured  him,  although  it  should  cost  me  the  labour  of  a  month. 

The  antelope  having  entered  the  reeds,  I  gave  my  horse  to  my  after- 
rider,  and  with  my  rifle  on  full  cock  and  at  the  ready  I  proceeded  to 
stalk  with  extreme  caution  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the 
cover ;  but  I  stalked  in  vain  ;  the  antelope  had  vanished,  and  was 
nowhere  to  be  found.  I  then  returned  to  my  steed,  and  rode  slowly  up 
the  river's  bank  towards  my  camp.  I  had  ridden  to  within  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  of  the  waggons,  and  was  meditating  how  I  should  best  cir- 
cumvent the  serolomootlooque,  when  once  more  this  lovely  antelope 
crossed  my  path  ;  I  had  been  unwittingly  driving  him  before  me  along 
the  bank  of  the  river.  He  trotted  like  a  roebuck  into  the  thick  cover, 
and  then  stood  broadside  among  the  thorn  bushes. 

I  sprang  from  my  saddle,  and,  guessing  about  his  position,  I  fired  and 
missed  him ;  he  then  trotted  along  a  rhinoceros's  footpath,  and  gave  me 
a  second  chance.  Again  I  fired,  and  before  my  rifle  was  down  from  my 
shoulder  the  serolomootlooque  lay  prostrate  in  the  dust.  The  ball  had 
cut  the  skin  open  along  his  ribs,  and,  entering  his  body,  had  passed  along 
his  neck,  and  had  lodged  in  his  brains,  where  we  found  it  on  preparing 
the  head  for  stuffing.  I  was  not  a  little  gratified  at  my  good  fortune  in 
securing  this  novel  and  valuable  trophy  ;  he  was  one  of  the  most  perfect 
antelopes  I  had  ever  beheld,  both  in  symmetry  and  colour.     I  had  him 


258   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

'       —  '    '  -'^ ■ ■  '    "  '  ■■■    i—      ■■■    mi    i    i       i  i  .11 1  ..    ■    ■!.■■■■■■    ■■  i  — «»— — —— — wm    ■'        I     ■  1^  -!■■  I     ■       J.-—  — — ^Wf 

immediately  conveyed  to  camp,  where  I  took  his  measurement,  and 
wrote  out  a  correct  description  of  him  for  the  benefit  of  naturalists.  I 
christened  him  the  "  Antelopus  Roualeynei,"  or  "bushbuck  of  the  Lim- 
popo." 

The  next  day  I  breakfasted  before  the  sun  rose,  and  then  rode  down 
the  river's  bank  with  Ruyter.  I  first  shot  an  old  buck  pallah,  and 
having  ridden  a  few  miles  farther  I  came  upon  two  fine  old  waterbucks 
fighting,  when  I  stalked  in  within  a  hundred  yards,  and  shot  them  both 
right  and  left.  The  heads  were  fair  specimens,  but,  having  many 
better,  I  reluctantly  left  them  to  perish  in  the  feldt.  Hereabouts  I 
found  fresh  spoor  of  hippopotami  of  the  preceding  night.  I  followed 
this  spoor  to  a  considerable  distance  along  the  margin  of  the  river,  and 
at  last  I  came  upon  the  troop.  They  were  lying  in  a  shady,  sequestered 
bend  of  the  river,  beneath  some  gigantic  shady  trees.  In  this  place  the 
water  in  heavy  floods  had  thrown  up  large  banks  of  sand,  in  which  they 
had  hollowed  out  their  beds.  The  spot  was  surrounded  with  dense 
underwood  and  reeds,  and  was  adjacent  to  a  very  deep  and  broad 
stream,  into  which  their  footpaths  led  in  every  direction. 

I  was  first  apprized  of  my  proximity  to  them  by  a  loud  cry  from  one 
old  bull,  who  took  alarm  at  the  sudden  flight  of  a  species  of  heron  :  his 
cry  was  not  unlike  that  of  an  elephant.  He  stood  in  water  which 
reached  half  way  up  his  side,  shaking  his  short  ears  in  the  sun ;  every 
half-minute  he  disappeared  beneath  the  water,  when,  again  parading  half 
of  his  body,  he  uttered  a  loud  snorting,  blowing  noise.  On  observing 
him,  I  dismounted,  and  every  time  he  disappeared  I  ran  in,  until  I 
stood  behind  the  tall  reeds  within  twenty  yards  of  him.  Here  I  might 
have  dropped  him  with  a  single  ball,  but  I  unfortunately  made  up  my 
mind  not  to  molest  them  until  next  day,  when  I  should  have  men  to 
assist  me  to  get  them  out.  Presently  he  observed  me,  when  he  dived, 
and  swam  round  a  shady  promontory  into  the  deep  stream,  where  he 
and  his  comrades  kept  up  a  continual  loud  blowing  noise.  I  returned 
to  camp,  and,  having  ordered  my  men  to  inspan,  I  tried  a  drift  on 
horseback,  and  crossed  the  Limpopo,  but,  the  water  coming  over  my 
saddle,  I  did  not  attempt  to  bring  through  my  waggons.  We 
accordingly  held  on  our  course  on  the  north-western  bank  of  the  river, 
and  outspanned  about  a  mile  above  the  place  where  I  had  found  the 
hippopotami. 

When  the  sun  went  down  the  sea-cows  commenced  a  march  up  the 
river.  They  passed  along  opposite  to  my  camp,  making  the  most  extra- 
ordinary sounds — plowing,  snorting,  and  roaring,  sometimes  crashing 
through  reeds,  and  sometimes  swimming  gently,  and  splashing  and 
sporting  through  the  water.  There  being  a  little  moonlight,  I  went 
down  with  my  man  Carey,  and  sat  some  time  on  the  river's  bank  con- 
templating these  wonderful  monsters  of  the  river.  It  was  a  truly  grand 
and  very  extraordinary  scene  ;  the  opposite  bank  of  the  stream  was  clad 
with  trees  of  gigantic  size  and  great  beauty,  which  added  greatly  to  the 
interest  of  the  picture. 

On  the  1 4th,  after  a  very  early  breakfast,  I  proceeded  with  three  after- 
riders,  two  double-barrelled  rifles,  and  about  a  hundred  rounds  of  ammu- 


HIPPOPOTAMI    AND    CEOCODILES.  259 

— . — — i m^^—mm —— ■    ■■■!■  —■  ■■■  wjt*.m.»»wwi  ■■  ■>—!  ^^«^^"^«  w"        ^— ^ — ■ ,    — — — .  — 

nition,  to  the  spot  where  I  had  yesterday  found  the  hippopotami ;  but 
they  had  taken  alarm,  and  were  all  gone.  The  spoor  leading  up  the 
river,  I  rode  along  the  banks,  examining  every  pool  until  my  steed  was 
quite  knocked  up,  but  found  not  a  single  sea-cow.  The  spoor  still  led 
up  the  river  ;  they  had  made  short  cuts  at  every  bend,  sometimes  taking 
the  direct  line  on  my  side,  and  sometimes  on  the  other.  Finding  that  I 
must  sleep  in  the  feldt  if  I  followed  on,  I  despatched  Euyter  to  camp 
for  my  blankets,  coffee-kettle,  biscuit,  etc.,  and  fresh  steeds.  I  searched 
on  foot,  and  penetrated  every  thicket  and  every  dense  jungle  of  reeds 
that  overhung  the  river,  until  at  last,  faint  with  hunger  and  fatigue,  I 
sought  some  game  on  which  to  make  luncheon,  and  had  good  fortune  to 
fall  in  with  a  young  doe  of  the  "  Antelopus  Koualeynei,"  which  I  shot, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  she  was  roasting  on  a  mighty  fire. 

Euyter,  at  this  moment  coming  up,  brought  a  welcome  supply  of 
biscuit  and  coffee,  and  reported  my  horse  "  Flux,"  about  my  very  best, 
to  have  died  of  horse-sickness.  After  luncheon  I  continued  my  search 
for  hippopotami ;  and  just  as  the  sun  went  down  I  started  an  old  fellow 
from  beneath  some  tall  reeds,  which  hung  over  a  deep  broad  pool.  On 
hearing  me  approach  he  dived  with  a  loud  splash,  and  immediately  re- 
appeared with  a  blowing  noise  a  little  farther  up  the  river,  and  within 
twenty  yards  of  the  bank.  Having  looked  about  him,  he  again  dived, 
and  continued  his  course  up  the  river,  which  could  be  traced  from  the 
wave  above. 

I  ran  in  front  of  him,  and  when  he  came  up  the  third  time  I  was  stand- 
ing opposite  to  him,  ready  with  my  rifle  at  my  shoulder.  I  sent  the 
bullet  into  his  brain,  when  he  floundered  for  one  moment  at  the  surface, 
and  then  sank  to  the  bottom.  There  he  most  probably  only  remained 
for  half  an  hour,  but  in  a  few  minutes  night  set  in,  and  I  had  thus  the 
extreme  mortification  to  lose  my  hippopotamus,  the  second  one  which  I 
had  shot.  We  slept  beneath  a  shady  tree ;  at  midnight  a  few  drops  of 
rain  fell,  and  I  feared  a  drenching ;  it,  however,  passed  away.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  we  saw  several  large  crocodiles,  three  of  which  I  shot. 
One  of  these  lay  upon  an  island  ;  I  shot  him  dead  on  the  spot ;  he  did 
not  gain  the  water. 


CHAPTEE  XXV. 


We  cross  the  Limpopo — Rash  Encounter  with  a  Hippopotamus — Remarkable  dome- 
like Rock — Two  Serolomootlooques  shot — Hollow  Trees  containing  Honey — 
Gigantic  Ant-hills — Hunting  across  the  Limpopo — Another  Boa  Constrictor — 
A  Visit  from  Seleka — A  Sea-cow  shot,  which  sinks — Resurrection  of  the 
Beast — Splendid  Hippopotamus-shooting. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  having  found  a  good  drift,  I  crossed  the  Limpopo 
with  my  waggons,  and  drew  them  up  in  a  green  and  shady  spot.  I 
then  rode  a  long  way  down  the  eastern  bank  in  quest  of  hippopotami, 
and  late  in  the  evening  I  found  one,  which  I  did  not  molest,  trusting  to 
find  him  next  day. 

On  the  18th  a  dense  mist  hung  over  the  river  all  the  morning. 


260    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


Ordering  the  waggons  to  follow  in  an  hour,  I  rode  ahead  to  seek  the 
sea-cow  of  the  previous  night,  but  after  a  long  search  I  gave  it  up  as  a 
bad  job,  and,  kindling  a  fire  to  warm  myself,  I  awaited  the  waggons, 
which  presently  came  up.  Here  I  halted  for  two  hours,  and  then  once 
more  rode  ahead  to  seek  hippopotami.  The  river  became  more  promising 
for  sea-cow.  At  every  turn  there  occurred  deep,  still  pools,  with 
occasional  sandy  islands  densely  clad  with  lofty  reeds,  and  with  banks 
covered  with  reeds  to  a  breadth  of  thirty  yards.  Above  and  beyond 
these  reeds  stood  trees  of  immense  age  and  gigantic  size,  beneath  which 
grew  a  long  and  very  rank  description  of  grass,  on  which  the  sea-cow 
delights  to  pasture. 

I  soon  found  fresh  spoor,  and  after  holding  on  for  several  miles,  just 
as  the  sun  was  going  down,  and  as  I  entered  a  dense  reed  cover,  I  came 
upon  the  fresh  lairs  of  four  hippopotami.  They  had  been  lying  sleeping 
on  the  margin  of  the  river,  and,  on  hearing  me  come  crackling  through 
the  reeds,  had  plunged  into  the  deep  water.  I  at  once  ascertained  that 
they  were  newly  started,  for  the  froth  and  bubbles  were  still  on  the 
spot  where  they  had  plunged  in.  Next  moment  I  heard  them  blowing 
a  little  way  down  the  river.  I  then  headed  them,  and,  with  considerable 
difficulty,  owing  to  the  cover  and  the  reeds,  I  at  length  came  down-right 
above  where  they  were  standing.  It  was  a  broad  part  of  the  river,  with 
a  sandy  bottom,  and  the  water  came  half-way  up  their  sides.  There 
were  four  of  them,  three  cows  and  an  old  bull ;  they  stood  in  the  middle 
of  the  river,  and,  though  alarmed,  did  not  appear  aware  of  the  extent 
of  the  impending  danger. 

I  took  the  sea-cow  next  me,  and  with  my  first  ball  I  gave  her  a  mortal 
wound,  knocking  loose  a  great  plate  on  the  top  of  her  skull.  She  at 
once  commenced  plunging  round  and  round,  and  then  occasionally  re- 
mained still,  sitting  for  a  few  minutes  on  the  same  spot.  On  hearing 
the  report  of  my  rifle  two  of  the  others  took  up  stream,  and  the  fourth 
dashed  down  the  river ;  they  trotted  along,  like  oxen,  at  a  smart  pace 
as  long  as  the  water  was  shallow.  I  was  now  in  a  state  of  very  great 
anxiety  about  my  wounded  sea-cow,  for  I  feared  that  she  would  get 
down  into  deep  water,  and  be  lost  like  the  last  one  ;  her  struggles  were 
still  carrying  her  down  stream,  and  the  water  was  becoming  deeper. 
To  settle  the  matter  I  accordingly  fired  a  second  shot  from  bank,  which, 
entering  the  roof  of  her  skull,  passed  out  through  her  eye ;  she  then 
kept  continually  splashing  round  and  round  in  a  circle  in  the  middle  of 
the  river.  I  had  great  fears  of  the  crocodiles,  and  I  did  not  know  that 
the  sea-cow  might  not  attack  me.  My  anxiety  to  secure  her,  however, 
overcame  all  hesitation ;  so,  divesting  myself  of  my  leathers,  and  armed 
with  a  sharp  knife,  I  dashed  into  the  water,  which  at  first  took  me  up 
to  my  arm-pits,  but  in  the  middle  was  shallower. 

As  I  approached  Behemoth  her  eye  looked  very  wicked.  I  halted  for 
a  moment,  ready  to  dive  under  the  water  if  she  attacked  me,  but  she 
was  stunned,  and  did  not  know  what  she  was  doing ;  so,  running  in 
upon  her,  and  seizing  her  short  tail,  I  attempted  to  incline  her  course  to 
land:  It  was  extraordinary  what  enormous  strength  she  still  had  in  the 
water.     I  could  not  guide  her  in  the  slightest,  and  she  continued  to 


ADVENTURE    WITH    A    SEA-COW.  261 

splash,  and  plunge,  and  blow,  and  make  her  circular  course,  carrying 
me  along  with  her  as  if  I  was  a  fly  on  her  tail.  Finding  her  tail  gave 
me  but  a  poor  hold,  as  the  only  means  of  securing  my  prey,  I  took  out 
my  knife,  and  cutting  two  deep  parallel  incisions  through  the  skin  on 
her  rump,,  and  lifting  this  skin  from  the  flesh,  so  that  I  could  get  in  my 
two  hands,  I  made  use  of  this  as  a  handle ;  and  after  some  desperate 
hard  work,  sometimes  pushing  and  sometimes  pulling,  the  sea-cow  con- 
tinuing her  circular  course  all  the  time  and  I  holding  on  at  her  rump 
like  grim  Death,  eventually  I  succeeded  in  bringing  this  gigantic  and 
most  powerful  animal  to  the  bank.  Here  the  Bushman  quickly  brought 
me  a  stout  buffalo  rheim  from  my  horse's  neck,  which  I  passed  through 
the  opening  in  the  thick  skin,  and  moored  Behemoth  to  a  tree.  I  then 
took  my  rifle  and  sent  a  ball  through  the  centre  of  her  head,  and  she 
was  numbered  with  the  dead. 

At  this  moment  my  waggons  came  up  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of 
the  spot,  where  I  outspanned,  and  by  moonlight  we  took  down  a  span 
of  select  oxen  and  a  pair  of  rheim  chains,  and  succeeded  in  dragging  the 
sea-cow  high  and  dry.  We  were  all  astonished  at  her  enormous  size  ; 
she  appeared  to  be  about  five  feet  broad  across  the  belly.  I  could  see 
much  beauty  in  the  animal,  which  Nature  has  admirably  formed  for  the 
amphibious  life  it  was  destined  to  pursue. 

We  were  occupied  all  the  morning  of  the  19th  cutting  up  and  salting 
the  select  parts  of  the  sea-cow ;  of  the  skull  I  took  particular  charge. 
She  was  extremely  fat,  more  resembling  a  pig  than  a  cow  or  a  horse. 
In  the  evening  I  rode  down  the  river,  and  shot  a  brace  of  waterbucks, 
after  which  I  left  the  river-bank  and  rode  to  the  summit  of  an  adjacent 
hill,  from  which  I  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 
Many  bold  blue  mountain  ranges  stood  to  the  north  and  north-west ;  to 
the  east  and  south-east  were  also  mountain  ranges ;  whilst  to  the  south 
a  very  remarkable  light-coloured  rock,  in  the  form  of  a  dome,  shot  high 
above  the  level  of  the  surrounding  forest. 

The  next  day  at  dawn  I  rode  down  the  river-side  to  seek  serolomoot- 
looques,  and  ordered  my  waggons  to  follow  in  a  couple  of  hours.  After 
riding  a  few  miles,  I  observed  a  serolomootlooque  of  surpassing  beauty 
standing  on  the  top  of  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river ;  he  stood  with  his 
breast  to  me,  and  from  the  broad  belt  of  reeds  on  this  side  of  the  water 
it  was  impossible  to  get  nearer  than  a  hundred  yards  of  him.  Taking  a 
deliberate  aim,  I  fired  off-hand,  and  heard  the  ball  tell  upon  him.  Here 
the  river  was  deep,  requiring  swimming,  and  I  had  fears  of  the  crocodiles. 
I  sent  the  Bushman  across,  however,  on  horseback,  who  immediately 
discovered  blood,  and  presently  came  upon  the  buck,  and  found  his 
fore-arm  smashed  in  the  shoulder.  I  went  over,  and,  starting  the  buck 
in  the  cover,  put  a  bullet  in  his  ribs.  He  then  got  into  some  thick 
reeds,  when  I  took  up  a  position  on  one  side,  and  ordered  Ruyter  to 
beat  up  the  cover.  The  buck  broke  near  me,  when  I  sent  a  third  bullet 
right  through  and  through  his  shoulder ;  and  the  tough  old  buck  still 
scorning  to  fall,  I  quickly  fired  my  other  barrel,  and  most  unluckily  cut 
his  lovely  horn  off  at  the  base.  The  buck  now  charged  headlong  into  a 
thick  bush,  and  died.     His  head,  before  I  destroyed  it,  was  perhaps  the 


262    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

finest  along  the  banks  of  the  Limpopo  ;  the  horns  were  of  extraordinary 
length,  and  had  a  most  perfect  set  and  turn. 

We  now  swam  our  steeds  back  to  the  saddlery,  and  presently  overtook 
the  waggons.  I  deposited  my  damaged  trophy,  and  mounting  fresh 
steeds,  rode  once  more  ahead.  I  was  not  ten  minutes  away  from  the 
waggons  when  I  started  another  serolomootlooque,  a  first-rate  old  buck, 
very  nearly  as  good  as  the  last.  Imagining  our  horses  were  some  beasts 
of  the  forest,  he  turned  to  look  at  us,  when  I  shot  him  in  the  heart. 
The  waggons  being  close  at  hand,  the  buck  was  deposited  in  my  larder, 
and  I  once  more  rode  forth. 

After  proceeding  many  miles  along  the  borders  of  the  river,  on  emerg- 
ing into  an  open  space  running  parallel  with  the  stream,  I  came  upon 
large  herds  of  pallahs,  blue  wildebeests,  zebras,  and  to  my  utter  astonish- 
ment, a  herd  of  about  ten  bull  elands.  I  was  not  aware  that  they  were 
met  with  in  these  parts.  I  gave  chase,  and  soon  selected  the  best  bull 
in  the  herd,  a  ponderous  grey  old  fellow;  he  began  at  once  to  trot, 
though  all  the  rest  were  still  at  a  gallop.  After  a  sharp  ride  of  a  few 
miles  I  turned  this  eland,  and  brought  him  back  close  on  the  river,  when 
I  shot  him  in  the  shoulder,  holding  out  my  rifle  with  one  hand,  like  a 
pistol.  I  then  rode  back  to  seek  my  waggons,  which  I  failed  to  find, 
they  not  having  come  on  as  I  had  ordered.  I  fancied  that  the  natives 
had  led  them  some  short  cut,  and  that  the  river  might  have  a  great  bend ; 
so,  being  faint  and  hungry,  I  rode  back  to  the  eland,  where  I  had  left 
my  Bushman,  kindled  a  fire,  and  roasted  and  ate  flesh  and  liver  of  the 
eland.  As  night  was  on,  I  skinned  his  side  which  lay  uppermost  that  I 
might  have  some  covering,  as  I  had  neither  coat  nor  waistcoat.  When, 
however,  the  sun  went  down,  signal  shots  disclosed  to  me  the  position 
of  the  waggons ;  they  had  come  within  half  a  mile  of  where  the  eland 
died. 

On  the  21st  I  rode  some  distance  down  the  river  with  Ruyter  in 
quest  of  sea-cow  and  serolomootlooques ;  we  found  fresh  spoor  of  the 
former,  and  I  shot  one  doe  of  the  latter.  Ruyter  drove  her  up  to  me 
by  beating  the  reeds ;  he  also  started  a  fine  old  buck,  which  did  not 
break  cover.  As  I  rode  along  I  saw  six  crocodiles  and  a  great  number 
of  monkeys  of  two  varieties  ;  also  several  deadly  serpents,  one  of  them 
a  cobra  very  similar  to  the  Indian  cobra.  Bees  were  very  abundant 
along  the  Limpopo,  the  gigantic  old  hollow  trees  affording  them  abun- 
dant homes.  My  natives  brought  me  some  fine  honey  while  I  was 
taking  my  breakfast ;  they  found  it  in  an  old  ant-hill.  I  was  astonished 
to  observed  along  the  banks  of  the  river  enormous  trees  from  three  to 
four  feet  in  diameter,  cut  down  by  Bakalahari,  only  for  the  sake  of  the 
honey  which  they  contain.  The  Bakalahari  fell  them  with  immense 
trouble  and  perseverance  with  little  tomahawks  of  their  own  formation. 

The  ant-hills  along  the  Limpopo  and  throughout  this  part  of  Africa 
are  truly  wonderful ;  it  is  common  to  see  them  upwards  of  twenty  feet 
high  and  one  hundred  feet  in  circumference.  They  are  composed  of 
clay,  which  hardens  in  the  sun  like  a  brick ;  they  have  generally  one 
tall  tapering  spire  in  the  middle  of  the  fabric,  the  base  of  the  spire  being 
surrounded  with  similar  projections  of  smaller  height.     The  natives  in- 


SEROLOMOOTLOOQUES    AND    CROCODILES.  263 

formed  me  that  we  were  opposite  to  the  tribe  Seleka,  whom  they  tried 
to  persuade  me  to  visit,  but  I  resolved  to  stick  to  the  Limpopo. 

On  the  22nd  we  came  upon  the  Macoolwey,  a  large  clear  running 
river,  joining  the  Limpopo  from  the  south-east :  here  I  bagged  a  princely 
waterbuck. 

At  dawn  of  the  succeeding  day  I  rode  forth  to  try  to  cross  the  Lim- 
popo and  hunt  for  serolomootlooques,  but  I  failed  to  find  a  drift.  I 
then  rode  some  distance  along  the  bank  of  the  Macoolwey  seeking  a 
passage  ;  but  I  was  still  unsuccessful.  I  then  retraced  my  steps  to  the 
Limpopo,  determined  to  get  through,  cost  what  it  might,  as  the  banks 
looked  very  promising  for  serolomootlooques.  I  discovered  a  drift,  but 
deep.  I  returned  to  camp  for  fresh  horses,  and  rode  forth  with  two 
after-riders,  and  a  packhorse  carrying  bedding,  as  I  had  resolved  to  hunt 
for  serolomootlooques  over  the  river  for  a  couple  of  days.  We  got 
safely  through,  and  held  up  the  stream.  I  sought  every  turn  of  the 
water  on  foot,  the  boys  leading  my  horse,  but  failed  to  fall  in  with  a 
buck  serolomootlooque.  I  therefore  retraced  my  steps  down  the  river 
to  a  spot  where  buffaloes  had  drunk  on  the  preceding  evening,  and  there 
I  spent  the  night. 

In  the  morning  I  rode  down  to  a  likely  cover  for  serolomootlooques 
opposite  the  drift.  Here  I  started  one  old  buck,  but  did  not  fire  ;  he 
went  off  barking  exactly  like  a  roebuck,  which  they  very  much  resemble 
in  form,  gait,  voice,  and  habit.  Following  on  after  this  buck,  I  started 
two  does,  one  of  which  I  shot.  Here  I  left  one  of  my  after-riders  with 
two  of  the  steeds,  whilst  I  and  Ruyter  rode  down  the  bank  of  the  Lim- 
popo to  explore.  I  found  the  river  wearing  quite  a  different  appear- 
ance below  its  junction,  being  very  much  broader — nearly  as  large,  in- 
deed, as  the  Orange  River.  Crocodiles  of  enormous  size  were  to  be  seen 
at  every  turn,  and  I  shot  four  huge  fellows.  We  then  fell  in  with  a 
large  rock  serpent,  or  "  metsapallah,"  about  eleven  feet  long,  which  I 
shot  with  a  ball  through  the  head,  and  brought  to  camp  slung  round  my 
neck. 

Having  resolved  over-night  to  rob  a  colony  of  bees  of  their  precious 
stores,  and  to  try  for  the  old  serolomootlooque  at  the  drift,  I  started  on 
the  25th  at  day-dawn,  with  two  after-riders,  one  of  them  carrying  a 
large  tin  pail  for  the  expected  honey.  After  crossing  the  river  I  stalked 
carefully  through  the  cover  where  the  serolomootlooque  dwelt.  I 
started  him  and  another  buck,  but  failed  to  obtain  a  shot.  I  then  set 
my  after-riders  to  beat  up  the  cover,  and  they  started  them  two  or  three 
times,  but  I  was  still  unsuccessful.  We  now  started  for  the  bees'  nest, 
which  was  in  an  old  hollow  tree.  I  kindled  a  large  fire  in  front  of  the 
hole,  and  having  smoked  them  with  dry  grass  took  out  the  honey, 
which  was  excellent.  I  got,  however,  about  fifty  stings  on  my  hands 
and  arms.  In  the  afternoon  I  inspanned,  and  crossed  the  Macoolwey  a 
few  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Limpopo.  The  natives  again  tried 
hard  to  lead  me  to  Seleka,  but  I  would  not  leave  the  Limpopo,  and 
accordingly  sheered  off  to  its  banks,  which  I  reached  by  bright  moon- 
light.    Here  we  heard  hippopotami  snorting  in  the  river,  and  lions 


264  HUNTING-  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


roared  near  us  all  night  long.     Next  day  I  had  the  luck  to  shoot  two 
very  fine  old  buck  serolomootlooques. 

On  the  27th  I  rode  down  the  river  at  dawn  of  day,  and  ordered  my 
waggons  to  follow  in  two  hours.  Whilst  riding  along  the  river's  bank, 
some  distance  beyond  the  limits  of  yesterday's  ride,  opposite  to  a  broad 
sandbank  densely  covered  with  reeds,  I  heard  a  loud  plunge,  which  was 
immediately  followed  by  the  welcome  blowing  sound  of  sea-cows.  I 
instantly  divested  myself  of  my  leather  trousers,  and  went  down  into 
the  reeds,  where  I  came  suddenly  upon  a  crocodile  of  average  size,  lying 
in  a  shallow  back  stream ;  and  on  his  attempting  to  gain  the  main  river, 
I  shot  him  with  a  bullet  in  the  shoulder  :  he  lay  dead  on  the  spot.  This 
was  the  first  crocodile  which  I  had  managed  to  lay  my  hands  upon, 
although  I  had  shot  many.  The  sound  of  my  rifle  alarmed  the  sea- 
cows  ;  some  took  up,  and  some  down  the  river.  I  was  unfortunate  with 
them,  shooting  two  and  losing  them  both.  As  I  was  seeking  the 
wounded  hippopotami,  my  waggons  came  up.  Soon  after  breakfast,  the 
chief  Seleka,  with  a  number  of  his  aristocracy,  paid  me  a  visit ;  and  in 
the  afternoon  I  rode  down  the  river,  ordering  my  waggons  to  follow, 
and  found  the  fresh  spoor  of  a  mighty  old  bull  elephant. 

I  rode  forth  at  sunrise  on  the  28th,  ordering  my  waggons  to  follow  in 
two  hours.  Seleka  had  sent  men  down  the  river,  before  it  was  clear,  to 
seek  sea-cows  ;  and  they  soon  came  running  after  me  to  say  that  they 
had  found  some.  I  accordingly  followed  them  to  the  river,  where,  in  a 
long,  broad,  and  deep  bend,  were  four  hippopotami,  two  full-grown 
cows,  a  small  cow,  and  a  calf.  At  the  tail  of  this  pool  was  a  strong  and 
rapid  stream,  which  thundered  along  in  Highland  fashion  over  large 
masses  of  dark  rock. 

On  coming  to  the  shady  bank,  I  could  at  first  only  see  one  old  cow 
and  calf.  When  they  dived  I  ran  into  the  reeds,  and  as  the  cow  came 
up  I  shot  her  in  the  head  ;  she,  however,  got  away  down  the  river,  and 
I  lost  her.  The  other  three  took  away  up  the  river,  and  became  very 
shy,  remaining  under  the  water  for  five  minutes  at  a  time,  and  then 
only  popping  their  heads  up  for  a  few  seconds.  I  accordingly  remained 
quiet  behind  the  reeds,  in  hope  of  their  dismissing  their  alarms.  Pre- 
sently the  two  smaller  ones  seemed  to  be  no  longer  frightened,  popping 
up  their  entire  heads,  and  remaining  above  water  for  a  minute  at  a  time ; 
but  the  third,  which  was  by  far  the  largest,  and  which  I  thought  must 
be  a  bull,  continued  extremely  shy,  remaining  under  the  water  for  ten 
minutes  at  a  time,  and  then  just  showing  her  face  for  a  second,  making 
a  blowing  like  a  whale,  and  returning  to  the  bottom.  I  stood  there  with 
rifle  at  my  shoulder,  and  my  eye  on  the  sight,  until  I  was  quite  tired. 
I  thought  I  should  never  get  a  chance  at  her,  and  had  just  resolved  to 
fire  at  one  of  the  smaller  ones,  when  she  shoved  up  half  her  head  and 
looked  about  her.  I  made  a  correct  shot ;  the  ball  cracked  loudly  below 
her  ear,  and  the  huge  body  of  the  sea-cow  came  floundering  to  the  top. 
I  was  enchanted  ;  she  could  not  escape.  Though  not  dead  she  had  lost 
her  senses,  and  continued  swimming  round  and  round,  sometimes  beneath 
and  sometimes  at  the  surface  of  the  water,  creating  a  fearful  commotion. 

Hearing  my  waggons  coming  on,  I  sent  a  message  to  my  followers  to 


SEROLOMOOTLOOQUE    AND    HIPPOPOTAMI.   265 

outspan,  and  to  come  and  behold  Behemoth  floundering  in  her  native 
element.  When  they  came  up  I  finished  her  with  a  shot  in  the  neck, 
upon  which  she  instantly  sank  to  the  bottom,  and  disappeared  in  the 
strong  rapid  torrent  at  the  tail  of  the  sea-cow  hole.  There  she  remained 
for  a  long  time,  and  I  thought  that  I  had  lost  her,  but  the  natives  said 
that  she  would  soon  reappear.  Being  in  want  of  refreshment,  I  left  my 
people  to  watch  for  the  resurrection  of  Behemoth,  and  I  held  to  the 
waggon  to  feed.  While  taking  my  breakfast  there  was  a  loud  hue-and- 
cry  among  the  natives,  that  the  koodoo  had  floated  and  was  sailing  down 
the  river.  It  was  so,  and  my  Hottentots  swam  in  and  brought  her  to 
the  bank.  Her  flesh  proved  most  excellent.  In  the  afternoon  I  rode 
down  the  river  with  Ruyter,  and  shot  one  very  splendid  old  waterbuck 
with  a  princely  head,  which  I  kept. 

The  next  day,  after  proceeding  a  few  miles,  I  killed  a  very  fine  buck 
of  the  serolomootlooque.  I  again  rode  down  the  river's  bank,  with  two 
after-riders,  to  seek  hippopotami,  the  natives  reporting  that  they  were 
to  be  found  in  a  pool  in  advance,  where  another  river  joined  the  Lim- 
popo. After  riding  a  short  distance  I  found  the  banks  unusually  green 
and  shady,  and  very  much  frequented  by  the  sea-cow  ;  and  presently  in 
a  broad,  deep,  and  long  still  bend  of  the  river,  I  disturbed  the  game  I 
sought. 

They  were  lying  in  their  sandy  beds  among  the  rank  reeds  at  the 
river's  margin,  and  on  hearing  me  galloping  over  the  gravelly  shingle 
between  the  bank  and  the  reeds,  the  deposit  of  some  great  flood,  they 
plunged  into  their  native  stronghold  in  dire  alarm,  and  commenced 
blowing,  snorting,  and  uttering  a  sound  very  similar  to  that  made  by 
the  musical  instrument  called  a  serpent.  It  was  a  fairish  place  for  an 
attack,  so,  divesting  myself  of  my  leather  trousers,  I  ordered  my  after- 
riders  to  remain  utterly  silent,  and  then  crept  cautiously  forward, 
determined  not  to  fire  a  shot  until  I  had  thoroughly  overhauled  the  herd 
to  see  if  it  did  not  contain  a  bull,  and  at  all  events  to  secure,  if  possible, 
the  very  finest  head  amongst  them. 

The  herd  consisted  of  about  fourteen  hippopotami ;  ten  of  these  were 
a  little  farther  down  the  stream  than  the  other  four.  Having  carefully 
examined  these  ten,  I  made  out  two  particular  hippopotami  decidedly 
larger  than  all  the  others.  I  then  crept  a  little  distance  up  the  river 
behind  the  reeds,  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  others.  They  were  two 
enormous  old  cows  with  two  large  calves  beside  them.  The  old 
ones  had  exactly  the  same  size  of  head  as  the  two  best  cows  below ; 
I  accordingly  chose  what  I  thought  the  best  of  these  two,  and,  making 
a  fine  shot  at  the  side  of  her  head,  I  at  once  disabled  her.  She  dis- 
appeared for  a  few  seconds,  and  then  came  floundering  to  the  surface, 
and  continued  swimming  round  and  round,  sometimes  diving,  and  then 
reappearing  with  a  loud  splash  and  a  blowing  noise,  always  getting 
slowly  down  the  river,  until  I  re-attacked  and  finished  her  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  farther  down,  about  an  hour  after. 

The  other  sea-cows  were  now  greatly  alarmed,  and  only  occasionally 
put  up  their  heads,  showing  but  a  small  part,  remaining  but  a  few 
seconds  at  a  time.     I,  however,  managed  to  select  one  of  the  three 


266  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

remaining  ones,  and,  making  a  most  perfect  shot,  I  sent  a  bullet  crashing 
into  her  brain.  This  caused  instantaneous  death,  and  she  sank  to  the 
bottom.  I  then  wounded  two  more  sea-cows  in  the  head,  both  of  which 
I  lost.  The  others  were  so  alarmed  and  cunning  that  it  was  impossible 
to  do  anything  with  them. 

The  one  I  had  first  shot  was  now  resting  with  half  her  body  above 
water  on  a  sandbank  in  the  Limpopo,  at  the  mouth  of  the  other  river 
Lepalala,  which  was  broad,  clear,  and  rapid.  From  this  resting-place  I 
started  her  with  one  shot  in  the  shoulder  and  another  in  the  side  of  the 
head ;  this  last  shot  set  her  in  motion  once  more,  and  she  commenced 
struggling  in  the  water  in  the  most  extraordinary  manner,  disappearing 
for  a  few  seconds  and  then  coming  up  like  a  great  whale,  setting  the 
whole  river  in  an  uproar.  Presently  she  took  away  down  the  stream, 
holding  to  the  other  side,  but,  again  returning,  I  finished  her  with  a  shot 
in  the  middle  of  the  forehead. 

This  proved  a  most  magnificent  specimen  of  the  female  of  the 
wondrous  hippopotamus,  an  animal  with  which  I  was  extremely  sur- 
prised and  delighted.  She  far  surpassed  the  brightest  conceptions  I  had 
formed  of  her,  being  a  larger,  a  more  lively,  and  in  every  way  a  more 
interesting  animal  than  certain  writers  had  led  me  to  expect.  On  securing 
this  fine  sea-cow  I  immediately  cut  off  her  head  and  placed  it  high  and 
dry  :  this  was  a  work  of  considerably  difficulty  for  four  men.  We  left 
her  body  in  the  water,  being  of  course,  unable  to  do  anything  with  it 
there.  It  was  well  I  secured  the  head  when  I  did,  for  next  morning  the 
crocodiles  had  dragged  her  away. 

I  held  up  the  river  to  see  what  the  other  sea-cows  were  doing,  when 
to  my  particular  satisfaction,  I  beheld  the  body  of  the  other  huge  sea- 
cow  which  I  had  shot  in  the  brain  floating  in  the  pool  where  I  had  shot 
her,  and  stationary  within  about  twenty  yards  of  the  other  side.  I  then 
held  down  the  river  to  the  tail  of  the  pool,  where  the  stream  was  broad 
and  rapid  and  less  likely  to  hold  crocodiles,  and  here,  although  cold  and 
worn  out,  I  swam  across  to  secure  my  game.  The  waggons  now  came 
up,  and  two  of  my  Hottentots  swam  over  to  my  assistance ;  but  just  as 
we  were  going  in  to  secure  the  sea-cow,  she  became  disengaged  from 
the  invisible  fetters  that  had  held  her,  and  which  turned  out  to  be  the 
branch  of  a  gigantic  old  tree  that  some  flood  had  lodged  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pool.  The  sea-cow  now  floated  down  the  middle  of  the  river ; 
when  she  neared  the  tail  of  the  pool,  we  swam  in  and  inclined  her  course 
to  shore,  and  stranded  her  on  a  fine  gravel  bank. 

This  truly  magnificent  specimen  was  just  about  the  same  size  as  the 
first,  and  apparently  older,  but  her  teeth  were  not  so  thick.  Ordering 
the  natives  at  once  to  cut  off  her  huge  head,  and  having  seen  it  deposited 
safely  on  the  bank  along  with  that  of  her  comrade,  I  held  for  my 
waggons,  having  to  cross  the  Lepalala  to  reach  them.  I  was  very  cold 
and  worn  out,  but  most  highly  gratified  at  my  good  fortune  in  first  kill- 
ing, and  then  in  securing,  two  out  of  the  four  best  sea-cows  in  a  herd 
of  fourteen. 


ANOTHEK  ELEPHANT  HUNT.  267 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Seleka's  Town  among  the  Rocks — Elephant-hunting  with  Seleka  and  his  Men — 
Trading  with  Seleka — A  Lion  and  Lioness  with  their  Cubs — An  immense  Herd 
of  Hippopotami — Nine  of  them  killed — Trap  for  inflicting  poisoned  Wounds  on 
Sea-cows — We  cross  the  Limpopo,  and  a  Waggon  sticks  in  the  River — We  trek 
down  the  Stream — Two  of  my  best  Horses  killed  and  eaten  by  Lions — The 
Chief  of  the  Bamalette  visits  me — Audacity  of  the  Lions — A  Horse  killed  in  a 
Pitfall — A  Chief  flogged  for  catching  and  consuming  a  Horse. 

On  the  1st  of  July  I  inspanned  at  sunrise  and  marched  to  the  town  of 
the  Baseleka,  which  I  reached  in  about  four  hours,  having  crossed  the 
Lepalala  on  the  way.  I  outspanned  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  Seleka's 
town  is  built  on  the  top  and  sides  of  a  steep  and  precipitous  white 
quartz  rock,  "which  rises  abruptly,  and  forms  a  very  remarkable  feature 
in  the  green  forest  scenery  which  surrounds  it.  In  the  evening  Seleka 
brought  down  four  fairish  bull  elephant's  teeth,  which  I  bought  for  four 
muskets. 

On  the  morrow  I  took  an  early  breakfast,  and  then  held  east  with 
Seleka  and  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  of  his  men  to  seek  elephants,  they 
having  heard  from  the  Bakalahari  of  the  position  of  a  troop  of  bulls. 
This  day  I  might  reckon  as  the  beginning  of  my  elephant-hunting  this 
season.  As  the  country  appeared  to  me  well  adapted  for  the  sport,  and 
as  I  regretted  not  a  little  that  my  men  and  a  good  stud  of  horses  should 
be  idle  at  the  waggons  while  they  might  be  bringing  me  in  fifty  pounds 
once  or  twice  a-week,  I  armed  and  mounted  John  Stofolus  and  Carey, 
both  of  whom  vaunted  much  of  their  courage  and  skill.  I  instructed 
them,  in  the  event  of  our  finding,  to  select  a  good  elephant,  and,  if  not 
able  to  kill  him,  at  least  to  hold  him  in  view  until  I  had  finished  mine, 
which  I  promised  to  do  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  then  to  come  to  their 
assistance. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far  from  the  white  rock  when  we  entered  a 
forest  frequented  by  elephants,  and  we  very  soon  came  upon  the  fresh 
spoor  of  a  troop  of  about  ten  fine  bulls.  The  spooring  was  conducted 
very  properly,  the  old  chief  taking  the  greatest  care  of  the  wind,  keeping 
his  followers  far  back,  and  maintaining  silence,  extending  picquets  in 
advance,  and  to  the  right  and  left,  and  ordering  them  to  ascend  to  the 
summits  of  the  tallest  trees  to  obtain  a  correct  view  of  the  surrounding 
forest.  Presently  the  mighty  game  was  detected.  Old  Schwartland 
was  led  alongside  of  me,  and  my  dogs  were  all  in  the  couples,  eight  in 
number.  I  quickly  mounted,  and,  riding  slowly  forward,  obtained  a 
blink  of  one  of  the  elephants. 

I  called  to  the  natives  to  slip  the  dogs,  and  then  dashed  forward  for 
a  selection.  I  chose  the  last,  and  gave  him  a  shot  as  he  passed  me,  and 
then  riding  hard  under  his  stern  I  yelled  like  a  demon  to  clear  him  from 
his  comrades  and  to  bring  the  dogs  to  my  assistance.  The  dogs  came 
as  I  expected  to  my  elephant,  and  I  shot  him  from  the  saddle  in  a 
business-like  style,  loading  and  firing  with  great  rapidity  ;  he  took  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  shots  before  he  fell.     All  this  time  I  listened  in  vain 


268    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

for  shots  from  John  or  Carey.  The  former  did  not  even  consider  him- 
self safe  in  the  same  forest  with  the  elephants,  and  had  slunk  away  from 
Carey  while  in  sight  of  a  splendid  bull ;  nor  did  we  hear  more  of  him 
that  day.  Carey  did  but  little  better,  for  he  lost  his  elephant  immedi- 
ately, one  charge  being  sufficient. 

The  natives  were  now  fighting  with  an  immense  old  bull :  hearing 
them,  I  rode  in  their  direction,  and  came  upon  Carey  stationary  in 
the  forest.  Here  the  dogs  took  up  the  scent  of  an  elephant,  and  I 
followed  them,  but  they  eventually  dropped  it.  I  then  tried  to  retrace 
my  steps  to  the  dead  elephant,  which  I  did  by  chance,  having  lost  my 
way  in  the  level  boundless  jungle  and  wandered  far.  I  found  a  few 
natives,  who  reported  their  captain  and  most  of  his  men  to  be  still  engaged 
with  the  elephant,  and  they  said  that  Carey  had  joined  them  in  the 
chase.  I  off-saddled  for  a  little,  but,  hearing  the  cries  of  the  natives  in 
the  distance,  I  saddled  old  Schwartland,  and  rode  onward  till  I  found 
the  natives  and  Carey  quite  done  up,  and  on  the  point  of  dropping  the 
game.  The  elephant,  although  red  with  blood,  and  resembling  a 
porcupine  from  the  number  of  the  assagais,  was  little  the  worse  for  all 
that  he  had  received.  I  then  attacked  him,  and,  with  eight  or  ten  shots, 
ended  his  career. 

Next  morning,  Bakalahari  coming  up  and  reporting  to  have  heard 
elephants  during  the  night,  old  Seleka  and  I  went  in  quest  of  them. 
We  were  joined  by  the  gallant  and  vaunting  John  Stofolus ;  who  had 
slept  at  the  waggons,  and  swore  that  he  had  lost  his  way  in  a  long  chase 
after  an  elephant.  Both  he  and  Carey  expressing  regret  for  their 
previous  mismanagement,  and  vowing  to  prove  themselves  men  this  day, 
I  allowed  them  to  accompany  me.  We  soon  took  up  the  spoor  of  one 
old  bull,  which  led  us  into  a  forest  thoroughly  ploughed  up  and  broken 
with  bull  elephants.  Here  this  fine  fellow  joined  a  glorious  squadron  of 
from  twenty  to  thirty  mighty  bulls.  When  we  discovered  their  position 
I  dashed  forward,  shouting  to  the  dogs,  and  was  instantly  in  the  middle 
of  them.  Then  followed  a  wondrous  scene.  The  elephants,  panic- 
stricken,  charged  forward,  levelling  the  forest  before  them,  trumpeting, 
with  trunks  and  tails  aloft,  as  the  dogs  mingled  with  them. 

Looking  back  over  my  shoulder  I  beheld  the  elephants  come  crashing  on 
behind  and  within  a  few  yards  of  me.  I  then  pressed  forward,  overtook 
about  ten  bulls  that  were  inclining  to  the  west,  rode  under  their  sterns, 
chose  the  best,  and,  yelling  at  the  top  of  my  voice,  I  separated  him  from 
his  comrades,  and  brought  my  dogs  to  my  assistance.  In  a  few  minutes 
he  had  many  mortal  wounds.  Not  hearing  my  trusty  John  and  Carey 
fire,  and  the  elephant's  course  being  right  towards  camp,  I  ceased  firing 
and  drove  him  on  before  me.  Presently  these  worthies  came  up  to  me, 
having  been  after  a  most  splendid  bull — the  cock  of  the  troop — which  I 
in  my  haste,  had  ridden  by.  They  had  fired  two  or  three  shots,  and 
then  left  him. 

I  now  saw  that  all  my  hunting  this  season  must  depend  on  my  own 
single  hand,  as  my  followers,  instead  of  a  help,  were  a  very  great  hinder- 
ance  and  annoyance  to  me.  If  I  had  been  alone  that  day  I  should  most 
certainly  have  taken  more  time,  and  have  selected  the  elephant  they  had 


A    TROOP    OF    SEA-COWS.  269 


lost,  which  the  natives  said  parried  extremely  large  and  long  teeth. 
Presently,  my  elephant  declining  to  proceed  farther,  and,  becoming  ex- 
tremely wicked,  I  recommenced  firing,  and  at  last  he  fell,  having  received 
twenty-nine  balls,  twenty-seven  of  these  being  in  a  very  correct  part. 
This  was  an  enormous  first-rate  bull ;  but  his  teeth,  though  large,  being 
not  the  best  in  the  troop,  I  felt  very  much  dissatisfied. 

On  the  forenoon  of  the  5th  I  traded  with  Seleka  for  karosses  of 
pallah's  skin  and  tusks  of  elephants,  and  in  the  evening  I  walked  up  to 
inspect  the  town,  and  climbed  to  the  summit  of  the  quartz  rock  on 
which  the  citadel  of  Seleka  is  situated.  Here  I  viewed  the  surrounding 
country  ;  chainS  of  mountains  of  moderate  height  shot  above  the  level 
forest  in  every  direction,  but  mostly  to  the  east  and  south. 

The  next  day,  after  breakfast,  I  saddled  up  steeds  and  took  the  field 
for  elephants,  accompanied  by  two  after-riders.  We  were  soon  joined 
by  the  greater  part  of  the  Seleka  tribe,  and  held  about  south,  following 
the  bank  of  the  river  Lepalala,  which  we  eventually  crossed.  Having 
proceeded  some  distance  through  a  tract  but  little  frequented  by 
elephants,  men  who  had  been  sent  to  seek  in  a  south-westerly  direction 
came  and  reported  that  they  had  found.  We  then  held  at  once  for  a 
steep  and  very  rocky  hill  which  rose  abruptly  in  the  forest,  and  on  the 
west  side  of  which  the  elephants  had  been  seen.  We  had  ascended 
about  half-way  up  this  hill,  the  natives  following  on  in  a  long  string  and 
detached  parties,  when  we  discovered  that  we  had  nearly  hemmed  in  a 
huge  and  most  daring  old  lion,  with  his  partner  and  a  troop  of  very 
small  cubs.  I  had  passed  him  within  about  sixty  yards,  and  was  a  little 
above  him  on  the  hill  before  I  was  aware  of  his  presence.  He  gave  us 
notice  of  his  proximity  by  loud  and  continued  growling,  advancing 
boldly  with  open  jaws  towards  the  natives.  These  fled  before  him ;  and 
the  lioness  having  now  slunk  away  with  her  cubs,  and  some  of  our  dogs 
having  attacked  him,  he  turned  right  about  and  followed  slowly  after 
his  mate,  growling  fearfully. 

We  feared  that  all  this  noise  might  have  started  the  elephants  :  when, 
however,  we  had  gained  a  commanding  point  on  the  shoulder  of  the  hill, 
we  could  see  them  standing  in  a  thick  low  forest  a  short  distance  from  the 
base  of  the  hill ;  it  was  a  troop  of  very  middling  cow  elephants  with  a 
number  of  calves  of  all  sizes  :  about  half  a  mile  to  the  north  we  could 
see  another  troop  of  cows.  I  wished  to  attack  these,  but  the  natives 
prevailed  upon  me  to  attack  the  nearest  troop.  Leaving  the  greater 
part  of  the  natives  to  watch  our  movements  from  this  elevated  position, 
I  descended  the  hill  and  held  for  the  mighty  game.  I  felt  rather  nervous 
on  this  ocassion.  I  was  not  in  good  health,  and  the  forest  here  was  not 
well  adapted  for  the  sport,  the  cover  being  thick,  with  a  great  deal  of 
bad  wait-a-bit  thorns. 

When  we  came  upon  the  troop  they  were  considerably  scattered,  and 
we  first  approached  two  very  indifferent  cows,  which,  hearing  us,  instant- 
ly retreated  into  the  thick  cover.  I  would  not  follow  these,  but  at  once 
slipped  my  dogs  in  the  hope  that  they  would  find  me  better  elephants. 
The  dogs  then  ran  forward  in  different  directions,  and  immediately  a 
loud  trumpeting  followed  from  three  detachment  of  cows.     Galloping 

17 


270    HUNTING  AND  SPOBTING  ADVENTURES. 

forward,  I  obtained  a  view  of  them  all.  There  was  but  one  right  good 
cow  in  the  troop  :  she  brought  up  the  rear  of  a  detachment  which  came 
crashing  past  on  my  right,  making  for  the  densest  cover  round  the  base 
of  the  hill.  This  cow  carried  two  fine  long  white  tusks,  one  of  them 
With  a  very  sharp  point.  On  attacking  her  she  at  once  separated  from 
her  comrades,  and  every  one  of  my  dogs  took,  as  is  usual,  away  after  the 
calves  ;  galloping  up  alongside  and  very  near  this  cow,  and  firing  from 
the  saddle  I  bowled  her  over  with  a  single  ball  behind  the  shoulder. 

On  the  11th  we  marched  at  dawn  of  day,  holding  north-east,  and  halted 
on  the  bank  of  the  Limpopo.  There  the  waggons  remained,  whilst  I 
hunted  the  banks  of  the  river,  bagging  two  first-rate  bull  elephants  and 
one  hippopotamus.  One  of  these  elephants  I  shot  across  the  Limpopo, 
under  the  mountains  of  Guapa ;  I  fought  him  in  dense  wait-a-bit  jungle 
from  half-past  eleven  till  the  sun  was  under,  when  his  tough  old  spirit 
•fled,  and  the  venerable  monarch  of  the  forest  fell,  pierced  with  fifty-seven 
balls.  On  the  17th  we  inspanned  and  trekked  about  five  miles  down 
the  stream,  when  I  halted  beside  a  long  deep  hippopotamus  hole,  in  which 
were  two  bulls  and  one  cow,  but  it  being  late  I  did  not  trouble  them. 

The  next  day  I  rode  down  the  river  to  seek  sea-cows,  accompanied 
by  my  two  after-riders  \  taking,  as  usual,  my  double-barrelled  rifles.  We 
had  proceeded  about  two  miles  when  we  came  upon  some  most  thoroughly 
beaten  old-established  hippopotamus  paths,  and  presently,  in  a  broad, 
long,  deep,  and  shaded  pool  of  the  river,  we  heard  the  sea-cows  bellowing. . 
There  I  beheld  one  of  the  most  wondrous  and  interesting  sights  that  a 
sportsman  can  be  blessed  with.  I  at  once  knew  that  there  must  be  an 
immense  herd  of  them,  for  the  voices  came  from  different  parts  of  the 
pool ;  so,  creeping  in  through  the  bushes  to  obtain  an  inspection,  a  large 
sandy  island  appeared  at  the  neck  of  the  pool,  on  which  stood  several 
large  shady  trees. 

The  neck  of  the  pool  was  very  wide  and  shallow,  with  rocks  and  large 
stones ;  below  it  was  deep  and  still.  On  a  sandy  promontory  of  this 
island  stood  about  thirty  cows  and  calyes,  whilst  in  the  pool  opposite, 
and  a  little  below  them,  stood  about  twenty  more  sea-cows,  with  their 
heads  and  backs  above  water.  About  fifty  yards  farther  down  the  river 
again,  showing  out  their  heads,  were  eight  or  ten  immense  fellows, 
which  I  think  were  all  bulls ;  and  about  one  hundred  yards  below  these 
in  the  middle  of  the  stream  stood  another  herd  of  about  eight  or  ten 
cows  with  calves,  and  two  huge  bulls.  The  sea-cows  lay  close  together 
like  pigs  \  a  favourite  position  was  to  rest  their  heads  on  their  comrades' 
sterns  and  sides.  The  herds  were  attended  by  an  immense  number  of 
the  invariable  rhinoceros  birds,  which,  on  observing  me,  did  their  best 
to  spread  alarm  throughout  the  hippotami.  I  was  resolved  to  select  if 
possible  a  first-rate  old  bull  out  of  this  vast  herd,  and  I  accordingly 
delayed  firing  for  nearly  two  hours,  continually  running  up  and  down 
behind  the  thick  thorny  cover,  attentively  studying  the  heads.  At 
length  I  determined  to  go  close  in  and  select  the  best  hqad  out  of  the 
eight  or  ten  bulls  which  lay  below  the  cows.  I  accordingly  left  the 
cover  and  walked  slowly  forward  in  full  view  of  the  whole  herd  to  the 
water's  edge,  where  I  lay  down  on  my  belly  and  studied  the  heads  of 


SHOOTING    HIPPOPOTAMI.  271 


these  bulls.     The  cows,  on  seeing  me,  splashed  into  the  water  and  kept 
up  a  continual  snorting  and  blowing  till  night  set  in. 

After  selecting  for  a  few  minutes  I  fired  my  first  shot  at  a  splendid 
bull,  and  sent  the  ball  in  a  little  behind  the  eye.  He  was  at  once 
incapacitated,  and  kept  plunging  and  swimming  round  and  round, 
wearing  away  down  the  pool,  until  I  finished  him  with  two  more  shots. 
The  whole  pool  was  now  in  a  state  of  intense  commotion.  The  best 
cows  and  the  bulls  at  once  became  very  shy  and  cunning,  showing  only 
the  flat  roofs  of  their  heads,  and  sometimes  only  their  nostrils.  The 
younger  cows  were  not  so  shy,  producing  the  whole  head  \  and  if  I  had 
wished  to  make  a  bag  I  might  have  shot  an  immense  number.  This 
however  was  not  my  object ;  and  as  there  was  likely  to  be  a  difficulty 
in  securing  what  I  did  kill,  I  determined  only  to  fire  at  the  very  best. 
When,  therefore,  the  sun  went  down  I  had  not  fired  a  great  many  shots, 
but  had  bagged  five  first-rate  hippopotami,  four  cows  and  one  bull,  and 
besides  these  there  were  three  or  four  more  very  severely  wounded  which 
were  spouting  blood  throughout  the  pool. 

The  next  day  I  removed  my  waggons  to  the  bank  where  I  had  waged 
successful  war  with  the  hippopotami.  Here  we  halted  beneath  a  shady 
tree  with  a  very  dark  green  leaf,  and  having  drawn  up  the  waggons  we 
cast  loose  the  trektows,  and  marching  the  two  spans  of  oxen  down  to 
the  edge  of  the  river  we  dragged  out  one  of  the  sea-cows  high  and  dry. 
After  breakfast  I  rode  down  the  river  with  Carey  to  seek  those  I  had 
wounded.  Having  ridden  about  three  miles  down  the  river,  we  heard 
sea-cows  snorting ;  and  on  dismounting  from  my  horse  and  creeping  in 
through  very  dense  thorny  cover  which  here  clothed  the  banks,  I  found 
a  very  fine  herd  of  about  thirty  hippopotami  basking  in  the  sun  :  they 
lay  upon  a  sand-bank  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  in  about  three  feet  of 
water.  After  taking  a  long  time  to  make  a  selection  I  opened  my  fire 
and  discharged  my  four  barrels  :  one  sea-cow  lay  dead,  and  two  others 
were  stunned  and  took  to  the  other  side,  but  eventually  recovered  and 
were  not  numbered  with  the  slain.  I  continued  with  them  till  sundown 
and  fired  a  good  many  shots,  but  only  bagged  one  other  cow :  they  were 
very  shy  and  cunning. 

On  the  20th  I  again  rode  down  the  river  to  the  pool,  and  found  a  herd 
of  sea-cows  still  there;  so  I  remained  with  them  till  sundown,  and 
bagged  two  very  first-rate  old  sea-cows,  which  were  forthcoming  next 
day.  This  day  I  detected  a  most  dangerous  trap  constructed  by  the 
Bakalahari  for  slaying  sea-cows.  It  consisted  of  a  sharp  little  assagai  or 
spike  most  thoroughly  poisoned,  and  stuck  firmly  into  the  end  of  a  heavy 
block  of  thorn-wood  about  four  feet  long  and  five  inches  in  diameter. 
This  formidable  affair  was  suspended  over  the  centre  of  a  sea-cow  path 
at  a  height  of  about  thirty  feet  from  the  ground  by  a  bark  cord  which 
passed  over  a  high  branch  of  a  tree  and  thence  to  a  peg  on  the  other 
side,  where  it  was  fastened.  To  the  suspending  cord  were  two  triggers 
so  constructed  that,  when  the  sea-cow  struck  against  the  cord  which  led 
across  the  path,  the  heavy  block  above  was  set  at  liberty,  which  instantly 
dropped  with  immense  force  with  poisonous  dart,  inflicting  a  sure  and 
mortal  wound.     The  bones  and  old  teeth  of  sea-cows  which  lay  rotting 


272   HUNTING  AND  SPOTTING  ADVENTURES. 

along  the  bank  of  the  river  here  evinced  the  success  of  this  dangerous 
invention.  I  remained  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  pool  for  several 
days,  during  which  time  I  bagged  no  less  than  fifteen  first-rate  hippopo- 
tami, the  greater  portion  of  them  being  bulls. 

At  dawn  of  day  on  the  28th  we  inspanned  and  marched  up  the  river 
to  the  drift.  All  hands  worked  hard  in  cutting  down  the  bank  on  the 
opposite  side,  the  Bakalahari  assisting  us  ;  and  in  the  afternoon  we  got 
the  cap-tent  waggon,  which  was  very  lightly  laden,  through  the  river, 
with  twelve  oxen.  The  baggage-waggon  stuck  fast  in  the  mud,  and 
remained  there  all  night,  with  the  fore-wheels  half  way  up  the  bank, 
and  the  after-chest  under  the  water ;  and  although  we  put  twenty  oxen 
to  it,  we  could  not  get  it  out. 

The  next  day  our  first  work  was  to  reduce  the  bank  on  which  the 
waggon  stood,  after  which,  with  considerable  difficulty,  we  got  it  out 
with  twenty  of  my  best  oxen.  The  whole  day  we  were  busy  drying  the 
innumerable  contents  of  the  fore  and  after  chests  of  each  waggon, 
almost  everything  being  thoroughly,  saturated,  and  I  sustained  con- 
siderable loss  in  fine  powder,  percussion -caps,  biscuit,  tea,  coffee,  sugar, 
and  a  number  of  other  articles,  some  of  which  were  damaged  and  some 
entirely  destroyed. 

I  marched  at  dawn  of  day  on  the  30th.  Seleka  and  his  men  and  my 
hired  Baquaines  had  done  all  in  their  power  to  prevent  my  proceeding 
farther ;  but  as  they  could  not  conceal  the  waters  from  me,  my  course 
being  to  follow  the  Limpopo,  I  was  perfectly  independent  of  them. 
They  remained  by  me  until  I  crossed  the  Limpopo,  and  then  they  all 
turned  home.  I  was  now  once  more  without  natives,  and  held  down  the 
north-western  bank  of  the  river,  but  very  soon  Bakalahari  joined  us, 
and  their  numbers  increased  as  we  held  on.  I  had  the  good  luck  this 
day  to  bag  five  more  first-rate  hippopotami. 

The  next  day,  after  assisting  my  men  to  get  out  some  of  the  sea-cows, 
I  rode  down  the  river  with  two  after-riders  to  explore.  Having  ridden 
a  few  miles,  I  came  upon  a  troop  of  twelve,  the  best  of  which  I  disabled 
and  killed  the  next  day.  This  was  a  most  splendid  old  cow,  and  carried 
tusks  far  superior  to  any  we  had  yet  seen  ;  in  the  afternoon  I  bagged 
six  more. 

From  a  continued  run  of  good  luck  in  all  my  hunting  expeditions 
with  my  horses  and  oxen,  in  regard  to  lions  and  Bakalahari  pitfalls,  I 
had  become  foolishly  careless  of  them,  and  I  had  got  into  a  most 
dangerous  custom  of  allowing  the  cattle  to  feed  about  the  waggons  long 
after  the  sun  was  under.  I  was  always  boasting  of  my  good  luck,  and 
used  to  say  that  the  lions  knew  that  the  cattle  belonged  to  me,  and 
feared  to  molest  them.  This  night,  however,  a  bitter  lesson  was  in 
store  for  me.  The  sun  as  usual  had  been  under  an  hour  before  I 
ordered  my  men  to  make  fast  my  horses  :  the  oxen  had  of  their  own 
accord  come  to  the  waggons  and  lain  down  ;  the  horses,  however,  were 
not  forthcoming.  My  hired  natives,  who  were  now  anxious  to  prevent 
my  proceeding  farther  from  their  country,  were  wilfully  neglecting  their 
charge,  and,  instead  of  looking  after  my  cattle,  they  were  exchanging 
the  flesh  and  fat  of  my  sea-cows  for  assagais,  etc.,  with  the  Bakalahari. 


HORSES    KILLED    BY    LIONS.  273 


The  night  was  very  dark,  and  the  horses  were  sought  for  in  vain.  I  re- 
marked to  Carey  that  it  was  some  since  we  had  heard  the  voice  of  a 
lion ;  but  a  few  minutes  after  we  heard  the  low  moan  of  the  king  of 
beasts  repeated  several  time^  at  no  great  distance,  and  in  the  very  direc- 
tion in  which  my  horses  were  supposed  to  be. 

The  next  day  the  sun  had  been  up  two  hours,  and  my  horses  could 
not  yet  be  found.  I  entertained  no  apprehensions,  however,  from  the 
lion,  but  rather  suspected  some  plot  between  Seleka  and  my  natives  to 
drive  my  cattle  back,  and  so  force  me  to  retrace  my  steps.  I  therefore 
ordered  John  Stofolus  and  Hendrick  to  take  bridles  and  a  supply  of 
meat,  and  to  follow  up  the  spoor  wherever  it  might  lead ;  and  being 
anxious  to  see  which  way  it  went,  I  took  a  rifle  and  followed  in  quest  of 
it  myself.  Observing  a  number  of  vultures  to  the  west,  and  hearing  the 
voices  of  natives  in  that  direction,  I  proceeded  thither  at  top  speed. 

To  my  utter  horror,  I  found  my  two  most  valuable  and  especially 
favourite  veteran  shooting-horses  lying  fearfully  mangled  and  half  con- 
sumed by  a  troop  of  ruthless  lions.  They  were  "  Black  Jock  "  and 
"  Schwartland,"  the  former  a  first-rate  young  horse,  worth  =£24,  the 
latter  aged,  but  by  far  my  most  valuable  steed,  being  perhaps  the  best 
shooting-horse  in  Southern  Africa;  he  knew  no  fear,  and  would  approach 
as  near  as  I  chose  to  elephant  or  lion,  or  any  description  of  game.  From 
his  back  I  had  shot  nearly  all  my  elephants  last  year ;  and  so  fond  was 
I  of  this  horse,  that  I  never  rode  or  even  saddled  him  until  we  had  found 
elephants,  when  I  used  him  in  the  fight  and  then  immediately  off-saddled. 

With  a  sickening  heart  I  turned  from  this  most  painful  scene,  and, 
utterly  dejected,  I  returned  to  camp.  As  there  was  much  to  do  about 
the  waggons,  and  as  two  of  my  men  were  absent  seeking  the  lost  horses, 
I  did  not  immediately  go  in  quest  of  the  lions  ;  this  I  however  did  in 
the  afternoon,  taking  all  my  dogs,  but  I  failed  to  find  them.  A  large 
party  of  the  natives  from  the  south-west,  the  Bamalette,  reached  me  late 
in  the  day ;  their  object  was  flesh,  and  to  endeavour  to  persuade  me  to 
come  and  trade  with  them.  They  had  fallen  in  with  three  of  my  steeds, 
the  others  were  found  by  my  men  near  the  drift  where  I  had  last  crossed 
the  river.  I  formed  a  very  strong  kraal  for  my  cattle,  and  made  all  fast 
at  sundown.  Very  soon  after,  the  troop  of  lions  came  up  to  my  camp 
on  the  spoor  of  the  horses,  fancying  that  they  could  repeat  the  tragedy 
of  last  night ;  they  fought  with  my  dogs  in  the  most  daring  manner,  off 
and  on,  until  near  dawn  of  day,  driving  them  in  to  the  fire-side.  The 
cattle  were  very  restive,  and  nearly  broke  away,  but  the  kraal  was  good 
and  saved  them. 

In  the  morning,  ordering  my  waggons  to  follow,  I  rode  down  the  river, 
followed  by  at  least  two  hundred  natives,  to  secure  the  hippopotami  shot 
two  days  previous.  Six  of  these  were  forthcoming,  and  we  set  about 
getting  them  to  the  side  :  they  lay  upon  the  rocks  in  the  middle  of  the 
river.  One  of  these  proved  to  be  an  out-and-outer,  a  tearing  old  bull 
with  tusks  which  far  surpassed  anything  I  had  yet  seen,  and  quite  per- 
fect ;  I  was  very  much  gratified  with  this  fine  trophy.  There  were  also 
two  of  the  cows  which  carried  immense  and  perfect  tusks.     When  the 


274  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

waggons  came  up,  I  found  myself  minus  another  steed  :  a  fine  young 
mare  had  fallen  into  a  Bakalahari  pitfall,  and  had  been  suffocated. 

On  the  5th  I  rode  down  the  river  and  fell  in  with  a  large  herd  of 
about  thirty  hippopotami :  they  lay  upon  some  rocks  in  the  middle  of 
a  very  long  and  broad  pool.  I  wounded  seven  or  eight  of  these  in  the 
head,  and  killed  two,  a  bull  and  a  cow,  both  of  which  we  found  next 
day.  At  night  the  lions  prowled  around  our  camp,  and  fought  with  the 
dogs  until  the  morning :  they  came  boldly  in  between  the  fires  of  the 
natives,  who  lay  around  my  camp. 

The  next  day  I  ordered  my  waggons  to  come  on,  and  I  rode  ahead  to 
the  pool  where  I  had  last  shot.  When  the  waggons  came  up,  I  detected 
the  head  Bakalahari  of  the  kraal  beside  which  my  mare  had  been  killed ; 
he  was  talking  with  my  cattle  herds,  with  whom  he  seemed  to  be  on 
very  intimate  terms.  This  killing  of  my  horse  was  either  intentional  or 
most  culpably  careless,  as  the  pits  were  left  covered,  and  the  cattle 
driven  to  pasture  in  the  middle  of  them  ;  I  accordingly  deemed  it  proper 
that  this  man  should  be  made  an  example  of ;  so,  calling  to  my  English 
servant,  Carey,  to  assist  me,  we  each  seized  an  arm  of  the  guilty  chief, 
and  I  then  caused  Hendrick  to  flog  him,  with  a  sea-cow  jambok ;  after 
which  I  admonished  him,  and  told  him  that  if  the  holes  were  not  opened 
in  future  I  would  make  a  more  severe  example  as  I  proceeded.  The 
consequence  of  this  salutary  admonition  was  that  all  the  pitfalls  along 
the  river  were  thrown  open  in  advance  of  my  march,  a  thing  which  I 
had  never  before  seen  among  the  Bechuana  tribes.  In-  the  afternoon  I 
rode  down  the  river  a  few  pools,  and  found  a  very  fine  herd  of  about 
thirty  hippopotami.     I  wounded  three  or  four  of  these,  and  killed  one. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

We  trek  down  the  Limpopo — Abundance  of  Sea-cows — The  Lotsane  River — An 
immense  Herd  of  Elephants — Combat  with  a  first-rate  old  Bull— Rheumatic 
Fever  attacks  me,  which  determines  our  course  homewards — Elephants  smash- 
ing Forest-trees—  A  Lion  carries  off  one  of  my  men  from  the  Fireside — The 
Beast  occupied  consuming  him  all  night — The  man-eating  Lion  slain — Three 
Hippopotami  shot — One  of  the  Dogs  eaten  by  a  Crocodile — The  fatal  ' '  Tsetse  " 
fly — The  Fountain  of  Seboono — An  old  Bull-Elephant  held  in  check  without 
Gun  or  Dogs. 

I  resolved  now  to  cease  for  a  time  hunting  sea-cows,  and  to  trek 
ahead  in  good  earnest.  I  accordingly  took  considerable  trouble  in 
stowing  the  waggons  properly.  We  then  trekked  down  the  river  until 
sundown.  I  rode  ahead  of  the  waggons  to  explore,  and  was  struck  with 
astonishment  at  the  number  of  the  hippopotami.  They  seemed  to 
increase  the  farther  I  trekked  down  the  river  ;  every  pool  had  its  herd ; 
they  were  extremely  fearless,  allowing  me  to  approach  within  fifteen 
yards  of  them.  In  the  morning  I  found  myself  minus  my  hired  natives : 
these  ruffians,  fearing  to  receive  a  chastisement  similar  to  that  of  the 
chief  of  the  Bakalahari,  which  they  felt  they  deserved,  thought  it  best 
to  get  out  of  the  way  in  time,  and  had  cut  the  service.     The  chief 


M 

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ANOTHER  ELEPHANT  EXPEDITION.        275 


Matsaca  brought  me  ivory,  which  I  obtained  in  barter  for  muskets  and 
some  ammunition. 

On  the  8th  we  trekked  at  dawn  of  day,  and  after  proceeding  a  few 
miles  came  upon  the  Lotsane,  one  of  those  gravelly-bedded  rivers,  with 
only  water  in  occasional  spots,  such  as  are  met  with  in  the  Bamangwato 
country.  Here  was  much  spoor  of  elephant ;  and  the  natives  pressing 
me  to  halt  and  hunt,  I  outspanned  and  got  everything  ready  for  a  trip 
from  the  waggons. 

The  next  morning  I  started  with  a  party  of  natives  to  seek  elephants. 
We  held  along  the  banks  of  the  Lotsane  for  several  miles,  holding  a  north- 
westerly course ;  after  which  we  left  the  river  and  held  south-west ;  and, 
at  last,  followed  down  to  the  Limpopo,  and  so  home  to  camp,  without 
finding  a  single  fresh  spoor.  Here  I  found  my  old  friends  from 
Bamangwato,  Mollyeon  and  Kapain,  with  a  party.  I  was  glad  to  see 
these  men,  as  I  knew  they  would  assist  me  in  my  hunting,  and  they 
could  also  converse  with  me. 

On  the  10th,  at  dawn  of  day,  I  rode  down  the  river,  and  ordered  my 
waggons  to  follow.  I  found  sea-cows  more  and  more  abundant :  every 
pool  had  its  herd  :  the  margin  of  the  river  on  each  side  was  trampled 
down  by  elephants,  rhinoceroces,  buffaloes,  etc.  Having  ridden  about 
six  miles,  I  found  the  fresh  spoor  of  a  troop  of  bull  elephants.  I  off- 
saddled,  and  in  an  hour  the  waggons  came  up,  when  I  took  up  the  spoor, 
accompanied  by  Carey,  Hendrick,  and  Ruyter.  After  following  the 
spoor  for  some  miles,  the  natives  lost  it.  A  little  distance  ahead  of  us 
was  a  rocky  hill,  to  the  summit  of  which  I  ascended.  This  spot  com- 
manded a  good  view  of  the  adjacent  forest.  I  at  once  detected  an 
immense  herd  of  elephants.  They  were  drinking  in  a  wide  open  spot 
on  a  gravelly-bedded  river  which  falls  into  the  Limpopo,  called  by  the 
natives  Suking. 

We  then  made  a  turn  to  leeward  and  came  in  upon  this  fine  herd  ;  it 
was  the  largest  I  had  ever  seen ;  there  must  have  been  upwards  of  one 
hundred  elephants  before  my  eye  at  once.  The  troop  consisted  chiefly 
of  cows  and  calves ;  I  however  detected  one  fine  well-grown  bull,  carry- 
ing very  fair  tusks.  I  rode  slowly  towards  him,  followed  ■  by  my  men, 
and  the  natives  leading  the  dogs.  We  advanced  unobserved  until  we 
were  within  twenty  yards  of  some  of  the  outside  cows.  Here  I  enjoyed 
a  fine  view  of  the  herd  ;  they  stood  drinking  on  a  vast  surface  of  granite 
rock,  and,  though  no  trees  intervened  between  us  and  them,  they  took 
not  the  slightest  notice  of  us. 

At  length  I  gave  the  bull  a  shot  in  the  shoulder  and  then  followed 
him  up.  He  stumbled,  and  fell  once  upon  the  slippery  rock,  but, 
recovering  his  feet,  went  off  at  a  pace  which  I  could  hardly  equal  on  the 
dangerous  ground.  By  good  luck,  most  of  my  dogs  came  to  my  assist- 
ance, and  I  slew  him  in  a  few  minutes  with  eight  or  ten  shots.  I  had 
directed  Hendrick  and  Carey  to  try  to  hold  some  of  the  cows  for  me 
until  I  was  ready  with  the  bull ;  accordingly,  these  doughty  Nimrods 
followed  and  turned  four  cows  for  a  short  time,  and  then  left  them, 
without  even  firing  a  shot  to  advise  me  of  their  course  ;  the  consequence 


276   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

of  which  was,  that  I  knocked  up  myself,  my  dogs,  and  horses,  in  chasing 
the  retreating  herd  to  a  great  distance,  to  no  purpose. 

On  the  following  day  I  shot  another  bull  elephant  and  a  white 
rhinoceros  ;  and  on  the  afternoon  of  the  12th,  returning  to  camp  weary 
and  worn,  I  came  unexpectedly  upon  a  bull  elephant  of  unusual  size, 
standing  in  the  shade  on  the  margin  of  the  Limpopo.  He  took  refuge 
in  an  extensive  jungle  of  impracticable  wait-a-bits,  where  it  was 
impossible  to  do  anything  on  horseback,  and  I  was  therefore  obliged  to 
hunt  him  on  foot.  I  slew  him  with  thirty  bullets  after  an  extremely 
severe  and  dangerous  combat  of  about  two  hours.  I  afterwards  felt 
much  the  worse  for  this  severe  exertion. 

On  the  14th  I  despatched  Hendrick  to  bring  on  the  waggons,  which 
came  up  in  the  afternoon.  Night  set  in  warm,  calm,  and  still,  with  a 
good  moonlight.  Elephants,  sea-cows,  and  panthers  kept  up  a  continued 
music  above  and  below  us  along  the  river  until  I  fell  asleep. 

On  the  15th  I  felt  very  ill,  but  in  the  forenoon  I  went  down  to  the 
river,  where  I  shot  two  sea-cows.  In  the  evening,  feeling  worse,  I  bled 
myself,  but  strong  fever  was  on  me  all  night. 

Next  morning  I  marched,  halting  at  sundown  on  the  Mokojay,  a 
gravelly-bedded  periodical  river,  where  elephants  occasionally  drank. 

On  the  18th  at  dawn  of  day  I  took  leave  of  Molly  eon  and  Kapain  of 
Bamangwato,  as  they  would  not  follow  me  farther.  We  then  inspanned, 
and  held  down  the  Limpopo.  I  regretted  to  observe  that  the  spoor  of 
elephants  did  not  seem  to  increase  in  the  same  ratio  as  I  had  allowed 
myself  to  imagine.  We  were  in  an  extremely  remote  and  secluded 
corner  of  the  world,  quite  uninhabited ;  yet  the  elephants,  though 
frequenting  it,  were  decidedly  scarce.  I  felt  extremely  weak  and 
nervous  from  the  fever  and  the  quantity  of  blood  which  I  had  lost,  in 
so  much  that  I  started  at  my  own  shadow,  and  several  times  sprang  to 
one  side  when  the  leaves  rustled  in  the  bushes.  I  walked  along  the 
bank  of  the  river  with  my  gun  loaded  with  small  shot,  intending  to  shoot 
a  partridge  for  my  breakfast.  Presently  I  came  upon  the  fresh  dung  of 
bull  elephants,  and  at  the  same  moment  my  people  at  the  waggons  saw 
two  old  bull  elephants  within  two  hundred  yards  of  them ;  and  the  wind 
being  favourable,  they  walked  unsuspiciously  away. 

A  singular  piece  of  good  luck  here  occurred ;  on  beholding  the 
elephants  my  weakness  (brought  on  by  bleeding)  and  my  nervousness  of 
mind  immediately  left  me. 

Having  caught  and  saddled  steeds,  I  attacked  these  two  noble 
elephants,  and  had  the  good  fortune  to  secure  them  both,  while  my  oxen 
were  standing  close  by  in  their  yokes,  and  my  people  were  looking  on. 
I  was  enabled  to  do  this  by  the  assistance  of  my  dogs,  who  kept  one  of 
the  elephants  in  play  until  his  comrade  was  mortally  wounded,  when  I 
galloped  hard  to  their  assistance,  and  secured  him  before  the  first  had 
fallen  to  the  ground. 

On  the  20th,  early  in  the  morning,  I  rode  some  distance  down  the 
river,  with  one  after-rider,  to  explore.  I  found  the  country  here  not 
much  frequented  by  elephants  ;  I,  however,  found  the  fresh  spoor  of  one 
troop,  but  I  was  much  too  weak  to  follow  it.     Following  an  elephant 


AN    APPALLING    TRAGEDY.  277 

path  in  very  rocky  ground,  I  came  suddenly  within  ten  yards  of  an  old 
bull  buffalo,  who  instantly  charged  me  most  fiercely,  and  had  not  my 
horse  been  most  particularly  active  I  could  not  have  escaped  him  :  so 
headlong  was  his  charge  that  he  lost  his  footing  in  the  rocky  ground, 
and  fell  with  amazing  violence,  getting  up  and  retreating  quite  crippled 
with  the  fall.  A  little  after  this  I  had  ascended  to  the  summit  of  a 
tree  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  surrounding  forest,  when  two  white 
rhinoceroses  came  trotting  up,  despite  my  shouting,  and  stood  within 
fifteen  yards  of  my  already  terrified  steeds. 

My  fever  still  continuing  on  me,  and  the  natives  having  deserted,  I 
determined  upon  turning  my  face  homewards.  Accordingly,  on  the 
21st,  I  ordered  my  men  to  inspan  and  retrace  their  spoor.  A  troop  of 
lions  had  killed  some  game  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  us,  and  had 
been  roaring  very  loudly  all  the  morning  :  these  gave  us  a  parting  salute 
as  we  were  inspanning.  Their  voices  sounded  to  me  ominous,  perhaps 
from  the  nervous  state  of  my  health.  I  thought  they  said,  "  Yes,  you 
do  well  to  retrace  your  rash  steps  ;  you  have  just  come  far  enough."  I 
must  acknowledge  that  I  felt  a  little  anxious  as  to  the  safety  of  proceed- 
ing farther  on  several  accounts.  First,  the  natives  had  spoken  of 
Moselekatse,  now  resident  not  very  far  in  advance,  as  one  who  would 
most  unquestionably  murder  me,  and  seize  all  my  property.  They  also 
told  me  that  I  should  lose  all  my  cattle  by  the  fly  calted  "  Tsetse;"  and  I 
had  also  reason  to  believe  the  country  in  advance  not  very  healthy  for  man. 

My  followers  received  my  orders  to  turn  homewards  with  sincere 
gratification  :  we  trekked  till  sundown,  halting  on  the  march  for  a  sick 
ox,  which  we  eventually  left  behind  a  prey  to  the  lions,  and  slept  on 
the  Mokojay,  where  the  Bamangwato  men  had  left  me. 

On  the  29th  we  arrived  at  a  small  village  of  Bakalahari.  These 
natives  told  me  that  elephants  were  abundant  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  I  accordingly  resolved  to  halt  here  and  hunt,  and  drew  my 
waggons  up  on  the  river's  bank,  within  thirty  yards  of  the  water  and 
about  one  hundred  yards  from  the  native  village.  Having  outspanned, 
we  at  once  set  about  making  for  the  cattle  a  kraal  of  the  worst  descrip- 
tion of  thorn-trees.  Of  this  I  had  now  become  very  particular,  since  my 
severe  loss  by  lions  on  the  first  of  this  month ;  and  my  cattle  were,  at 
night,  secured  by  a  strong  kraal,  which  enclosed  my  two  waggons,  the 
horses  being  made  fast  to  a  trektow  stretched  between  the  hind-wheels 
of  the  waggons.  I  had  yet,  however,  a  fearful  lesson  to  learn  as  to  the 
nature  and  character  of  the  lion,  of  which  I  had  at  one  time  entertained 
so  little  fear ;  and  on  this  night  a  horrible  tragedy  was  to  be  acted  in 
my  little  lonely  camp  of  so  very  awful  and  appalling  a  nature  as  to  make 
the  blood  curdle  in  our  veins,  I  worked  till  near  sundown  at  one  side 
of  the  kraal  with  Hendrick,  my  first  waggon-driver — I  cutting  down 
the  trees  with  my  axe,  and  he  dragging  them  to  the  kraal.  When  the 
kraal  for  the  cattle  was  finished,  I  turned  my  attention  to  making  a  pot 
of  barley-broth,  and  lighted  a  fire  between  the  waggons  and  the  water, 
close  on  the  river's  bank,  under  a  dense  grove  of  shady  trees,  making  no 
sort  of  kraal  around  our  sitting-place  for  the  evening. 

The  Hottentots,  without  any  reason,  made  their  fire  about  fifty  yards 


278  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

from  mine ;  they,  accordingly  to  their  usual  custom,  being  satisfied  with 
the  shelter  of  a  large  dense  bush.  The  evening  passed  away  cheerfully. 
Soon  after  it  was  dark  we  heard  elephants  breaking  the  trees  in  the 
forest  across  the  river  ;  and  once  or  twice  I  strode  away  into  the  darkness 
some  distance  from  the  fireside,  to  stand  and  listen  to  them.  I  little, 
at  that  moment,  deemed  of  the  imminent  peril  to  which  I  was  exposing 
my  life,  nor  thought  that  a  bloodthirsty  man-eater  lion  was  crouching 
near,  and  only  watching  his  opportunity  to  spring  in  the  midst  of  us, 
and  consign  one  of  our  number  to  a  most  terrible  death. 

About  three  hours  after  the  sun  went  down  I  called  to  my  men  to 
come  and  take  their  coffee  and  supper,  which  was  ready  for  them  at  my 
fire  ;  and  after  supper  three  of  them  returned  before  their  comrades  to 
their  own  fireside,  and  lay  down  ;  these  were  John  Stofolus,  Hendrick, 
and  Ruyter.  In  a  few  minutes  an  ox  came  out  by  the  gate  of  the  kraal 
and  walked  round  the  back  of  it.  Hendrick  got  up  and  drove  him  in 
again,  and  then  went  back  to  his  fireside  and  lay  down.  Hendrick  and 
Ruyter  lay  on  one  side  of  the  fire  under  one  blanket,  and  John  Stofolus 
lay  on  the  other.  At  this  moment  I  was  sitting  taking  some  barley- 
broth  ;  our  fire  was  very  small,  and  the  night  was  pitch-dark  and  windy. 
Owing  to  our  proximity  to  the  native  village  the  wood  was  very  scarce, 
the  Bakalahari  having  burnt  it  all  in  their  fires. 

Suddenly  the  appalling  and  murderous  voice  of  an  angry  bloodthirsty 
lion  burst  upon  my  ear  within  a  few  yards  of  us,  followed  by  the 
shrieking  of  the  Hottentots.  Again  and  again  the  murderous  roar  of 
attack  was  repeated.  We  heard  John  and  Ruyter  shriek  "The  lion!  the 
lion"!  still,, for  a  few  moments,  we  thought  he  was  but  chasing  one  of  the 
dogs  round  the  kraal ;  but,  next  instant,  John  Stofolus  rushed  into  the 
midst  of  us  almost  speechless  with  fear  and  terror,  his  eyes  bursting  from 
their  sockets,  and  shrieked  out,  "  The  lion  !  the  lion  !  He  has  got  Hen- 
drick ;  he  dragged  him  away  from  the  fire  beside  me.  I  struck  him  with 
the  burning  brands  upon  his  head,  but  he  would  not  let  go  his  hold.  Hen- 
drick is  dead  !  Oh,  God  !  Hendrick  is  dead  !  Let  us  take  fire  and  seek 
him." 

The  rest  of  my  people  rushed  about,  shrieking  and  yelling  as  if  they 
were  mad.  I  was  at  once  angry  with  them  for  their  folly,  and  told  them 
that  if  they  did  not  stand  still  and  keep  quiet  the  lion  would  have 
another  of  us ;  and  that  very  likely  there  was  a  troop  of  them.  I 
ordered  the  dogs,  which  were  nearly  all  fast,  to  be  made  loose,  and  the 
fire  to  be  increased  as  far  as  could  be.  I  then  shouted  Hendrick's  name, 
but  all  was  still.  I  told  my  men  that  Hendrick  was  dead,  and  that  a 
regiment  of  soldiers  could  not  now  help  him,  and,  hunting  my  dogs  for- 
ward, I  had  everything  brought  within  the  cattle  kraal,  when  we  lighted 
our  fire  and  closed  the  entrance  as  well  as  we  could. 

My  terrified  people  sat  round  the  fire  with  guns  in  their  hands 
till  the  day  broke,  still  fancying  that  every  moment  the  lion  would 
return  and  spring  again  into  the  midst  of  us.  When  the  dogs  were 
first  let  go,  the  stupid  brutes,  as  dogs  often  prove  when  most  required, 
instead  of  going  at  the  lion,  rushed  fiercely  on  one  another,  and  fought 
desperately  for  some  minutes.     After  this  they  got  his  wind,  and, 


THE    SCENE    OF    THE    TRAGEDY.  279 

going  at  him,  disclosed  to  us  his  position :  they  kept  up  a  continued 
barking  until  the  day  dawned,  the  lion  occasionally  springing  after  them 
and  driving  them  in  upon  the  kraal.  The  horrible  monster  lay  all  night 
within  forty  yards  of  us,  consuming  the  wretched  man  whom  he  had 
chosen  for  his  prey.  He  had  dragged  him  into  a  little  hollow  at  the 
back  of  the  thick  bush,  beside  which  the  fire  was  kindled,  and  there  he 
remained  till  the  day  dawned,  careless  of  our  proximity. 

It  appeared  that  when  the  unfortunate  Hendrick  rose  to  drive  in  the 
ox,  the  lion  had  watched  him  to  his  fireside,  and  he  had  scarcely  lain 
down  when  the  brute  sprang  upon  him  and  Ruyter  (for  both  lay  under 
one  blanket),  with  his  appalling  murderous  roar,  and,  roaring  as  he  lay, 
grappled  him  with  his  fearful  claws,  and  kept  biting  him  on  the  breast 
and  shoulder,  all  the  while  feeling  for  his  neck ;  having  got  hold  of 
which,  he  at  once  dragged  him  away  backwards  round  the  bush  into  the 
dense  shade. 

As  the  lion  lay  upon  the  unfortunate  man  he  faintly  cried  "  Help  me, 
help  me  !  Oh,  God  !  men,  help  me !  "  After  which  the  fearful  beast  got 
a  hold  of  his  neck,  and  then  all  was  still,  except  that  his  comrades  heard 
the  bones  of  his  neck  cracking  between  the  teeth  of  the  lion.  John 
Stofolus  had  lain  with  his  back  to  the  fire  on  the  opposite  side,  and  on 
hearing  the  lion  he  sprang  up,  and,  seizing  a  large  flaming  brand,  he  bad 
belaboured  him  on  the  head  with  the  burning  wood ;  but  the  brute  did 
not  take  any  notice  of  him.  The  Bushman  had  a  narrow  escape ;  he 
was  not  altogether  scatheless,  the  lion  having  inflicted  two  gashes  in  his 
seat  with  his  claws. 

The  next  morning,  just  as  the  day  began  to  dawn,  we  heard  the  lion 
dragging  something  up  the  river-side  under  cover  of  the  bank.  We 
drove  the  cattle  out  of  the  kraal,  and  then  proceeded  to  inspect  the  scene 
of  the  night's  awful  tragedy.  In  the  hollow,  where  the  lion  had  lain 
consuming  his  prey,  we  found  one  leg  of  the  unfortunate  Hendrick, 
bitten  off  below  the  knee,  the  shoe  still  on  his  foot ;  the  grass  and  bushes 
were  all  stained  with  his  blood,  and  fragments  of  his  pea-coat  lay  around. 
Poor  Hendrick !  I  knew  the  fragments  of  that  old  coat,  and  had  often 
marked  them  hanging  in  the  dense  covers  where  the  elephant  had 
charged  after  my  unfortunate  after-rider.  Hendrick  was  by  far  the 
best  man  I  had  about  my  waggons,  of  a  most  cheerful  disposition,  a 
first-rate  waggon-driver,  fearless  in  the  field,  ever  active,  willing,  and 
obliging :  his  loss  to  us  all  was  very  serious.  I  felt  confounded  and 
utterly  sick  in  my  heart ;  I  could  not  remain  at  the  waggons,  so  I 
resolved  to  go  after  elephants  to  divert  my  mind.  I  had  that  morning 
heard  them  breaking  the  trees  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  I 
accordingly  told  the  natives  of  the  village  of  my  intentions ;  and  having 
ordered  my  people  to  devote  the  day  to  fortifying  the  kraal,  I  started 
with  Piet  and  Ruyter  as  my  after-riders.  It  was  a  very  cool  day.  We 
crossed  the  river,  and  at  once  took  up  the  fresh  spoor  of  a  troop  of  bull 
elephants. 

These  bulls  unfortunately  joined  a  troop  of  cows,  and  when  we  came 
on  them  the  dogs  attacked  the  cows,  and  the  bulls  were  off  in  a  moment, 
before  we  could  even  see  them.     One  remarkably  fine  old  cow  charged 


280    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


the  dogs.  I  hunted  this  cow,  and  finished  her  with  two  shots  from  the 
saddle.  Being  anxious  to  return  to  my  people  before  night,  I  did  not 
attempt  to  follow  the  troop.  My  followers  were  not  a  little  gratified  to 
see  me  returning,  for  terror  had  taken  hold  of  their  minds,  and  they 
expected  that  the  lion  would  return,  and,  emboldened  by  the  success  of 
the  preceding  night,  would  prove  still  more  daring  in  his  attack.  The 
lion  would  most  certainly  have  returned,  but  fate  had  otherwise  ordained. 
My  health  had  been  better  in  the  last  three  days  :  my  fever  was  leaving 
me,  but  I  was,  of  course,  still  very  weak.  It  would  still  be  two  hours 
before  the  sun  would  set,  and,  feeling  refreshed  by  a  little  rest,  and  able 
for  further  work,  I  ordered  the  steeds  to  be  saddled,  and  went  in  search 
of  the  lion. 

I  took  John  and  Carey  as  after-riders,  armed,  and  a  party  of  the 
natives  followed  up  the  spoor  and  led  the  dogs.  The  lion  had  dragged 
the  remains  of  poor  Hendrick  along  a  native  footpath  that  led  up  the 
river-side.  We  found  fragments  of  his  coat  all  along  the  spoor,  and  at 
last  the  mangled  coat  itself.  About  six  hundred  yards  from  our  camp 
a  dry  river's  course  joined  the  Limpopo.  At  this  spot  was  much  shade, 
cover,  and  heaps  of  dry  reeds  and  trees  deposited  by  the  Limpopo  in 
some  great  flood.  The  lion  had  left  the  footpath  and  entered  this 
secluded  spot.  I  at  once  felt  convinced  that  we  were  upon  him,  and 
ordered  the  natives  to  make  loose  the  dogs.  These  walked  suspiciously 
forward  on  the  spoor,  and  next  minute  began  to  spring  about,  barking 
angrily,  with  all  their  hair  bristling  on  their  backs  :  a  crash  upon  the 
dry  reeds  immediately  followed — it  was  the  lion  bounding  away. 

Several  of  the  dogs  were  extremely  afraid  of  him,  and  kept  rushing 
continually  backwards  and  springing  aloft  to  obtain  a  view.  I  now 
pressed  forward  and  urged  them  on ;  old  Argyll  and  Bles  took  up  his 
spoor  in  gallant  style  and  led  on  the  other  dogs.  Then  commenced  a 
short  but  lively  and  glorious  chase,  whose  conclusion  was  the  only  small 
satisfaction  that  I  could  obtain  to  answer  for  the  horrors  of  the  preceding 
evening.  The  lion  held  up  the  river's  bank  for  a  short  distance  and 
took  away  through  some  wait-a-bit  thorn  cover,  the  best  he  could  find, 
but  nevertheless  open.  Here,  in  two  minutes,  the  dogs  were  up  with 
him,  and  he  turned  and  stood  at  bay>  As  I  approached  he  stood,  his 
horrid  head  right  to  me,  with  open  jaws  growling  fiercely,  his  tail 
waving  from  side  to  side. 

On  beholding  him  my  blood  boiled  with  rage.  I  wished  that  I  could 
take  him  alive  and  torture  him,  and,  setting  my  teeth,  I  dashed  my 
steed  forward  within  thirty  yards  of  him  and  shouted,  "  Your  time  is  up, 
old  fellow."  I  halted  my  horse,  and,  placing  my  rifle  to  my  shoulder,  I 
waited  for  a  broadside.  This,  next  moment,  he  exposed,  when  I  sent  a 
bullet  through  his  shoulder  and  dropped  him  on  the  spot.  He  rose, 
however,  again,  when  I  finished  him  with  a  second  in  the  breast.  The 
Bakalahari  now  came  up  in  wonder  and  delight.  I  ordered  John  to 
cut  off  his  head  and  forepaws  and  bring  them  to  the  waggons,  and 
mounting  my  horse  I  galloped  home,  having  been  absent  about  fifteen 
minutes.  When  the  Bakalahari  women  heard  that  the  man-eater  was 
dead,  they  all  commenced  dancing  about  with  joy,  calling  me  their  father. 


THE    "TSETSE"    FLY.  281 

On  the  6th  of  September,  there  being  no  flesh  in  camp,  I  galloped  up 
the  river-side  to  slay  a  hippopotamus,  and  presently  heard  a  troop  of 
them  chanting  behind  me :  I  had  ridden  past  them  and  not  observed 
them.  With  these  I  was  unlucky  :  I  wounded  six  or  seven,  but  did  not 
bag  one ;  they  became  very  shy  and  cunning  after  the  first  shot,  only 
protruding  their  noses.  At  midday  I  returned  to  camp  and  drank  tea, 
after  which  I  galloped  down  the  river  to  a  favourite  sea-cow  pool  about 
a  mile  below  my  waggons :  I  was  accompanied  by  natives  carrying  my  rifles. 
I  found  an  immense  herd  of  at  least  thirty  hippopotami  lying  upon  the 
rocks  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  I  shot  the  best  bull  and  two  fine  old 
cows,  and  wounded  a  fourth.  The  bull  and  two  cows  soon  floated,  and 
all  three  rested  together  on  a  ledge  of  rocks  in  the  middle  of  the  river. 
I  then  sent  for  John  and  Adonis,  and  with  the  assistance  of  the 
Bakalahari  we  got  them  into  shallow  water,  where  we  could  work  upon 
them. 

I  was  occupied  most  of  the  next  day  in  superintending  the  cutting  up 
of  the  flesh  of  the  sea-cows,  and  reducing  the  same  to  biltongue,  which  we 
hung  in  garlands  upon  ox-rheims  stretched  between  the  trees,  surrounding 
them  by  a  strong  kraal  of  thorn-trees. 

In  the  evening  a  large  party  of  Seleka's  Bechuanas  arrrived  at  my 
camp.  On  the  8th  one  of  my  horses  died  of  horse  sickness  ;  it  was  of 
course  my  favourite,  being  my  best  shooting-horse.  On  reaching  camp 
after  my  last  hunting  excursion,  "  Lion,"  my  very  best  dog,  was  reported 
consumed  by  a  huge  crocodile,  whe  frequented  the  spot  where  we  drew 
water  :  for  such  little  pleasing  varieties  the  African  hunter  must  make 
up  his  mind ;  they  are  mere  occurrences  of  every  day. 

I  saddled  up  at  an  early  hour,  and  went  in  quest  of  elephants  with 
Seleka's  men.  We  crossed  the  Limpopo  and  then  held  east  through  the 
forest  for  the  strong  fountain  called  Seboono.  I  was  unlucky  here,  how- 
ever, as  I  also  was  next  day,  although  we  hunted  by  a  splendid  fountain 
in  a  more  southerly  direction.  When  under  the  mountains  I  met  with 
the  famous  fly  called  "  tsetse,"  whose  bite  is  certain  death  to  oxen  and 
horses.  This  "hunter's  scourge"  is  similar  to  a  fly  in  Scotland  called 
"  kleg,"  but  a  little  smaller  ;  they  are  very  quick  and  active,  and  storm 
a  horse  like  a  swarm  of  bees,  alighting  on  him  in  hundreds  and  drinking 
his  blood.  The  animal  thus  bitten  pines  away  and  dies  at  periods  vary- 
ing from  a  week  to  three  months,  according  to  the  extent  to  which  he 
has  been  bitten. 

On  the  10th  the  chief  Pocoolway  arrived  with  a  large  retinue  :  he  was 
a  short  stout  man,  of  a  prepossessing  expression,  and  both  in  appearance 
and  manner  much  reminded  me  of  a  certain  Scottish  Earl. 

After  three  or  four  days'  unsuccessful  hunting  I  resolved  on  the  14th, 
there  being  good  moonlight,  to  try  what  might  be  done  with  the 
elephants  by  night-shooting  at  the  fountains,  and  I  determined  to  make 
Carey  shoot  with  me,  he  using  the  big  rifle  of  six  to  the  pound,  and  I 
my  single-barrelled  two-grooved  of  eight  to  the  pound.  In  the  forenoon 
we  were  occupied  making  very  hard  bullets  and  sorting  our  ammunition, 
etc.,  etc.,  for  a  week's  expedition,  and  at  mid-day  we  started,  followed 
by  about  sixty  natives.     We  crossed  the  Limpopo,  and  held  about  east, 


282  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

right  away  through  the  forest,  for  the  fountain  which  I  had  visited  on 
the  8th.  On  our  lines  of  march  we  found  no  fresh  spoor  :  the  day  was 
extremely  hot,  and  the  shuffling  Bechuanas  chose  to  lag  behind  in  the 
forest  until  they  lost  me  entirely,  with  the  exception  of  three  or  four 
who  kept  up  with  Piet  my  after-rider,  carrying  my  gun,  and  leading 
"  Filbert "  and  "  Frochum,"  two  of  my  best  dogs.  Not  one  of  these  men 
knew  the  country,  and  they  had  no  Bakalahari  men  with  them  to  act  as 
guides. 

When  I  reached  the  small  fountain  which  lies  west  of  the  famous 
fountain  for  which  I  was  steering,  I  told  Piet  to  come  on  with  the 
natives,  and  that  I  would  ride  ahead  to  the  large  fountain.  I  then 
galloped  ahead,  and  made  the  fountain  on  its  lee  side.  On  slowly 
emerging  from  the  thorny  thicket  through  which  I  rode,  I  was  astonished 
to  behold  two  superb  old  bull  elephants  standing  before  me  in  the  open 
space  between  the  cover  and  the  fountain.  Both  of  them  carried 
enormous  tusks  ;  one  bull  however  was  much  taller  and  stouter  than  his 
comrade ;  I  had  very  rarely  seen  his  match,  and  his  tusks  at  once  took 
my  eye  as  being  perhaps  the  finest  I  had  ever  beheld.  Here  then  was 
I  standing  without  gun  or  dogs,  and  with  a  very  jaded  steed,  beside,  as 
I  afterwards  had  good  reason  to  believe,  the  very  best  elephant  in  all 
that  district,  and  in  perhaps  many  of  the  surrounding  parts.  I  would 
have  given  anything  at  that  moment  for  my  gun  and  dogs. 

I  felt  much  perplexed  what  to  do,  but  at  length  I  resolved  that  it  was 
best  to  hold  the  elephants  in  my  view,  and  in  the  event  of  their  being 
started  to  endeavour  to  hold  the  larger  bull  in  play,  and  hunt  him  always 
back  toward  the  fountain,  until  assistance  should  arrive.  It  was  well 
that  I  came  to  so  shrewd  a  resolution,  for  I  had  not  stood  sentry  over 
them  for  many  minutes,  when,  some  straggling  party  having  missed  the 
fountain,  and  passing  to  windward,  they  suddenly  tossed  up  their  trunks, 
and,  snuffing  the  tainted  gale,  they  crashed  past  me  down-wind  at  top 
speed. 

Now  came  the  tug  of  war.  I  had  no  child's  play  before  me  :  alone  and 
unassisted,  and  on  a  very  jaded  steed,  I  had  resolved  to  endeavour  what 
no  two  of  my  men  had  ever  accomplished  for  me.  I  had  not  only  to 
stick  by  the  elephant  wherever  he  chose  to  go,  which  was  all  I  required 
of  my  people  when  endeavouring  to  assist  me  in  my  hunting,  but  I  must 
also  drive  him  back  and  keep  him  by  the  fountain,  or  else  all  my 
exertions  would  be  fruitless. 

I  had  very  slight  hope  of  success,  but  he  was  well  worthy  of  a  tough 
struggle,  and  I  determined  that  he  should  have  it.  I  thought  what  my 
feelings  would  be  that  night  by  my  fireside  if  I  let  him  escape,  and  on 
the  other  hand  how  highly  I  should  prize  his  noble  trophies  if  I 
succeeded.  I  at  once  dashed  after  him  and  separated  him  from  his 
comrade.  When  he  found  that  I  had  the  speed  of  him  he  turned  at 
once  upon  me  and  charged  furiously  back  toward  the  fountain,  after 
which  he  tried  to  conceal  himself  among  the  trees,  and,  having  stood 
motionless  for  some  time  with  his  head  towards  me,  he  crashed  away 
through  the  forest  to  the  southward.  I  soon  headed  him  again,  yelling 
with  all  my  might.     Of  course  another  charge  followed :  I  eventually 


MY    FINEST    ELEPHANT.  283 

managed  however  to  drive  him  back  close  to  the  fountain;  still  no 
assistance  hove  in  sight.  My  after-rider,  though  he  had  been  there 
before,  had  missed  the  fountain.  It  was  he  and  the  natives  with  him 
who  had  started  the  elephants  :  they  had  crossed  the  fountain  to  wind- 
ward, and  were  wandering  about  with  my  gun  and  dogs  some  miles 
beyond  me. 

It  were  long  to  describe  all  the  turns  and  twists  I  had  with  this 
princely  old  bull.  I  certainly  did  my  duty,  and  stuck  by  him  like  a 
good  old  deer-hound  by  his  stag.  At  length  the  elephant  became 
extremely  fierce,  following  up  his  charges  with  most  determined  intent 
to  crush  me  and  my  steed,  which,  at  first  very  much  jaded,  was  now  so 
completely  done  up  that  he  could  barely  hold  his  own.  I  myself  felt 
much  exhausted,  and  my  throat  was  becoming  so  sore  and  hoarse  that 
my  shouting  was  for  the  present  nearing  to  a  close.  In  this  state  of 
things  I  could  not  have  held  him  much  longer.  Help  was,  however,  at 
hand.  Carey  and  Mutchuisho,  with  a  large  party  of  the  natives,  were 
at  this  moment  carefully  following  up  the  spoor  of  my  horse  where  I 
had  first  ridden  ahead  to  the  fountain,  and  were  passing  a  considerable 
distance  to  leeward  of  where  I  was  at  bay,  or  rather,  I  should  say, 
baying,  when  my  hoarse  voice  fell  on  Carey's  ear,  and  he  instantly 
called  silence  among  the  natives  and  sat  listening  in  his  saddle.  A 
second  time  my  voice  fell  on  his  ear,  and  he  at  once  held  forward  right 
for  me,  contrary  to  the  opinion  of  the  thick-headed  natives,  who  swore 
that  the  voice  came  from  behind. 

Fortunately  at  this  very  moment  the  elephant  made  a  furious  charge 
after  me,  accompanied  by  a  tremendous  trumpet  which  at  once  sealed 
his  fate.  They  all  heard  it,  and  "  Cooley  "  and  "  Affriar,"  two  right 
good  dogs,  were  instantly  released  from  the  couples  and  flew  to  my 
assistance,  followed  by  Carey  and  the  natives.  Eight  glad  was  I  when 
I  saw  black  Cooley  come  up  to  help  me.  I  at  once  felt  that  the  elephant 
was  mine,  being  certain  that  further  assistance  was  at  hand,  and,  with 
revived  spirits,  I  yelled  with  all  my  might.  In  two  minutes  up  came 
Carey  on  horseback,  but  without  a  gun.  I  called  out  to  him,  "  For 
God's  sake,  Carey,  bring  me  a  gun !  here  is  the  finest  elephant  in  Africa ; 
I  have  held  him  at  bay  and  fought  with  him  for  nearly  two  hours." 
Carey  rode  back  and  brought  me  his  single-barrelled  smooth  bore, 
carrying  twelve  to  the  pound,  and  gave  me  eight  bullets  out  of  his  belt, 
expressing  immense  regret  that  my  gun  was  not  forthcoming.  Carey 
had  always  an  absurd  idea  that  his  gun  could  not  kill  an  elephant :  to- 
day, however,  it  was  in  other  hands.  "My  good  fellow,"  I  said,  "  it  is 
all  right ;  the  elephant  is  ours." 

I  then  opened  my  fire  on  him  from  the  saddle.  I  put  my  seventh 
bullet  through  his  heart :  on  receiving  it  he  made  a  short  charge  and 
stood  trembling  for  a  few  seconds,  when  he  fell  forward  on  his  breast 
and  so  lay  ;  but  as  he  evinced  a  desire  to  alter  his  position,  which  was 
a  very  good  one  for  cutting  out  the  teeth,  I  dismounted,  and,  going  close 
up  to  him,  I  put  two  bullets  into  his  ear,  when  he  expired.  The  tusks 
of  this  elephant  equalled  my  expectations ;  one  of  them,  as  usual,  was 
more  perfect  than  its  fellow.     I  had  never  seen  their  match  but  once. 


m   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

On  reviewing  the  whole  afternoon's  work,  I  considered  myself  extremely 
fortunate  in  capturing  this  noble  prize,  and  I  felt  most  gratified  with  the 
satisfactory  termination  of  my  exertions.  Piet  and  his  party  heard  my 
shots,  and  they  presently  came  up  to  us  ;  coffee  and  other  good  things 
were  soon  spread  out  on  a  sheep-skin,  and  a  comfortable  sofa  being 
quickly  constructed  of  soft  grass,  covered  with  a  kaross,  I  lay  down  to 
rest,  the  happiest  of  the  happy. 

The  15th  was  an  extremely  hot  day.  Carey  and  I  were  occupied  all 
the  morning  cutting  out  the  tusks  of  the  big  bull  elephant ;  we  took 
particular  care  not  to  let  the  blood  fall  upon  them.  In  the  evening  we 
made  hiding-places  beside  the  fountain  from  which  to  shoot  elephants, 
and  when  the  sun  went  down  we  returned  thither  and  took  up  our 
positions  for  the  night.  Unfortunately  the  dead  elephant  lay  directly 
to  windward  of  the  southern  margin  of  the  fountain,  on  which  side  were 
all  the  best  elephant-footpaths.  The  consequence  was  that  every 
elephant  as  he  came  up  got  the  wind  of  the  natives  and  turned  right 
about.  Late  in  the  night  a  troop  of  eight  or  ten  bull  elephants  walked 
slowly  across  the  vley  with  their  heads  to  the  north.  I  rushed  forward 
to  get  before  them  in  the  wind,  and  running  down  the  edge  of  the  thorn 
cover  I  got  within  thirty  yards  of  the  last  bull,  which  was  the  best  in 
the  troop.  Observing  me  move,  he  stood  with  his  tusks  up  and  his  head 
directed  towards  me  in  a  very  suspicious  manner  for  two  minutes,  when 
his  fears  died  away,  and  he  turned  to  me  his  left  side.  I  then  gave  him 
a  deadly  shot  which  brought  blood  from  his  trunk,  as  I  ascertained  next 
day.  Returning  from  firing  at  him  I  met  Carey ;  his  pluck  had  failed 
him,  and  he  had  dropped  behind.  On  upbraiding  him  for  not  standing 
by  me,  he  swore  stoutly  that  he  had  stuck  in  the  mud !  as  we  had  to 
cross  a  bog  below  the  fountain  in  running  for  the  shot.  I  thought  this 
was  good,  and  I  said  to  myself,  "  I  have  got  a  name  for  you  at  last." 
But  Carey  was  a  good  servant,  and  very  attentive  to  me  throughout  my 
expedition. 

The  next  morning  I  and  Mutchuisho  took  up  the  spoor  of  my  wounded 
elephant.  He  had  gone  off  very  slowly,  with  blood  running  from  his 
trunk.  After  following  the  spoor  some  distance  we  lost  it  amongst 
others,  and  we  then  gave  it  up.  I  sent  Carey  to  the  waggons  with  the 
teeth,  to  act  as  guard,  they  being  well  worthy  of  an  escort,  and  at  night 
I  watched  the  fountain  along  with  three  Bakalahari.  We  had  not  been 
long  on  the  watch  before  three  enormous  old  bull-elephants  came ;  and, 
after  much  hesitation,  and  walking  once  or  twice  round  the  water,  they 
came  in  and  commenced  drinking.  I  lay  close  to  the  edge  of  the  fountain 
in  a  little  hollow.  The  elephants  came  in  to  drink  on  the  north  side  of 
a  run  which  led  away  from  the  fountain,  and  I  lay  on  the  south  side  of 
it.  Suddenly  the  finest  bull  of  the  three  walked  boldly  through  the 
run  and  came  straight  forward  to  where  I  lay.  If  I  had  remained  still 
he  would  have  walked  upon  me ;  but  when  he  came  within  six  or  eight 
yards  I  gave  a  loud  cough,  upon  which  he  tossed  his  head  aloft  and  gave 
me  a  broadside,  exposing  his  left  side.  I  then  gave  him  a  shot  from  the 
big  two-grooved  rifle,  and  he  dashed  off  with  his  two  comrades  in 
immense  consternation,  holding  for  the  Limpopo. 


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A    FINE    NIGHT'S    SPORT.  285 


The  next  day  one  of  my  steeds  died  of  "tsetse."  He  had  been  bitten 
under  the  mountain  range  lying  to  the  south  of  this  fountain.  The  head 
and  body  of  the  poor  animal  swelled  up  in  a  most  distressing  manner 
before  he  died.  His  eyes  were  so  swollen  that  he  could  not  see,  and  in 
darkness  he  neighed  for  his  comrades  who  stood  feeding  beside  him. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


Paapaa  Fountain — Watch  by  Moonlight  from  a  Shooting-hole — Remarkable  Sport 
with  Elephants — Four  bagged  and  eight  mortally  wounded  in  one  night — 
Elephant-hunting  with  Horse  and  Dogs  by  Moonlight — A  Troop  of  Lions — 
The  Vultures  with  the  shadowy  Wings — Another  Dog  snapped  up  by  a  Cro- 
codile— The  Skeleton  of  an  Elephant  shot  by  me  discovered — The  Tusks  being 
gone,  strong  measures  are  adopted  for  their  recovery. 

On  the  17th  of  September  I  resolved  to  leave  the  fountain  of  Seboono, 
as  it  was  much  disturbed,  and  to  proceed  with  a  few  Bakalahari  to  a 
small  yet  famous  water  about  six  miles  to  the  south-east.  We  accord- 
ingly saddled  up  and  held  thither.  On  reaching  this  fountain,  which  is 
called  by  the  natives  "Paapaa,"  I  found  the  numerous  footpaths  leading 
to  it  covered,  as  I  had  anticipated,  with  fresh  spoor  of  elephant  and  rhi- 
noceros. I  then  at  once  proceeded  to  study  the  best  spot  on  which  to 
make  our  shooting-hole  for  the  night.  It  would  be  impossible  to  prevent 
some  of  the  game  from  getting  our  wind,  for  the  footpaths  led  to  it  from 
every  side.  The  prevailing  wind  was  from  the  east,  so  I  pitched  upon 
the  south-west  corner  of  the  fountain.  The  water  was  not  more  than 
twenty  yards  long  and  ten  yards  broad.  The  west  side  was  bounded  by 
tufous  rock  which  rose  abruptly  from  the  water  about  five  feet  high. 
The  top  of  this  rock  was  level  with  the  surrounding  vley,  and  here  all 
the  elephants  drank  as  if  suspicious  of  treading  on  the  muddy  margin 
on  the  other  three  sides  of  the  fountain. 

I  made  our  shooting-box  within  six  or  eight  yards  of  the  water,  con- 
structing it  in  a  circular  form,  of  bushes  packed  together  so  as  to  form 
a  hedge  about  three  feet  high.  On  the  top  of  the  hedge  I  placed  heavy 
dead  old  branches  of  trees,  so  as  to  form  a  fine  clear  rest  for  our  rifles  ; 
these  clean  old  branches  were  all  lashed  firmly  together  with  strips  of 
thorn  bark.  All  being  completed,  I  took  the  Bakalahari  and  our  steeds 
to  a  shady  tree,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  leeward  of  the  fountain, 
where  we  formed  a  kraal  and  off-saddled.  This  day  was  particularly 
adapted  to  bring  game  to  the  water,  the  sun  being  extremely  powerful, 
and  a  hot  dry  wind  prevailing  all  the  afternoon.  I  told  Carey  that  we 
were  certain  of  having  a  good  night's  sport,  and  I  was  right,  for  we  un- 
doubtedly had  about  the  finest  night's  sport  and  the  most  wonderful  that 
was  ever  enjoyed  by  man. 

A  little  before  the  sun  went  down,  leaving  our  kraal,  we  held  to  the 
fountain,  having  with  us  our  heavy-metalled  rifles,  karosses,  and  two 
Bakalahari.  We  also  had  two  small  guns,  my  double-barrelled  Westley 
Richards,  and  Carey's  single-barrelled  gun.  As  we  approached  the  foun- 
tain a  stately  bull  giraffe  stood  before  us  ;  the  heat  of  the  day  had 

18 


286      HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

brought  him  thither,  but  he  feared  to  go  in  and  drink  ;  on  observing  us 
he  walked  slowly  away.  Two  jackals  were  next  detected.  Guinea 
fowl,  partridges,  two  or  three  sorts  of  pigeon  and  turtle-dove,  and  small 
birds  in  countless  thousands,  were  pouring  in  to  drink  from  every  airt, 
as  we  walked  up  to  our  hiding-place  and  lay  down.  In  a  few  minutes 
the  sun  was  under ;  but  the  moon  was  strong  and  high  (it  being  within 
three  nights  of  the  full),  and  the  sky  was  clear,  with  scarcely  a  cloud. 

Very  soon  a  step  was  heard  approaching  from  the  east ;  it  was  a  pre- 
suming black  rhinoceros.  He  came  up  within  ten  yards  of  the  hiding- 
hole,  and,  observing  us  with  his  sharp  prying  eye,  he  at  once  came  slowly 
forward  for  a  nearer  inspection.  I  then  shouted  to  him  ;  but  this  he  did 
not  heed  in  the  slightest.  I  then  sprang  up  and  waved  my  large  kaross, 
shouting  at  the  same  time.  This,  however,  only  seemed  to  amuse  Borel6, 
for  he  stood  within  four  yards  of  us,  with  his  horn  threatening  our  mo- 
mentary destruction,  nor  would  he  wheel  about  until  I  threw  a  log  of 
wood  at  him.  Black  rhinoceroses  are  very  difficult  to  scare  when  they 
do  not  get  the  wind  ;  the  best  way  to  do  so  is  to  hit  them  with  a  stone, 
— that  is,  in  the  event  of  the  sportsman  not  wishing  to  fire  off  his  gun. 

Soon  after  Borel6  departed  four  old  bull  elephants  drew  near  from  the 
south.  They  were  coming  right  on  for  the  spot  where  we  lay,  and  they 
seemed  very  likely  to  walk  over  the  top  of  us.  We  therefore  placed  our 
two  big  rifles  in  position,  and  awaited  their  forward  movement  with  in- 
tense interest.  On  they  came  with  a  slow  and  stately  step,  until  within 
twenty  yards  of  us,  when  the  leading  elephant  took  it  into  his  head  to 
pass  to  leeward.  We  let  him  come  on  until  he  got  our  wind  ;  he  was 
then  within  ten  yards  of  the  muzzles  of  our  heavy-metalled  rifles  ;  on 
winding  us  he  tossed  his  trunk  aloft,  and  we  instantly  fired  together.  I 
caught  him  somewhere  about  the  heart,  and  my  big  six-pound  rifle  burst 
in  Carey's  hands,  very  nearly  killing  us  both.  The  elephant  on  being 
fired  at  wheeled  about,  and  retreated  to  the  forest  at  top  speed.  I  now 
directed  "  Stick-in-the-mud  "  to  make  use  of  his  single-barrelled  twelve 
to  the  pound,  in  the  event  of  more  elephants  coming  up ;  and  thanking 
my  stars  that  the  old  Dutch  rifle  had  not  sent  us  both  to  the  land  of  the 
leal,  I  sat  down  and  watched  the  dark  masses  of  trees  that  cut  the  sky 
on  every  side,  in  the  hope  of  seeing  a  mass  as  high  and  wide  come 
towering  forward  into  the  open  space  that  surrounded  the  fountain. 

Nor  did  I  watch  long  in  vain,  for  very  soon  three  princely  bull 
elephants  appeared  exactly  where  the  first  came  on,  and  holding  exactly 
the  same  course.  They  approached  just  as  the  first  had  done.  When 
the  leading  elephant  came  within  ten  yards  of  us  he  got  our  wind,  and 
tossed  up  his  trunk,  and  was  wheeling  round  to  retreat,  when  we  fired 
together  and  sent  our  bullets  somewhere  about  his  heart.  He  ran  two 
hundred  yards  and  then  stood,  being  evidently  dying.  His  comrades 
halted  likewise,  but  one  of  them,  the  finest  of  the  three,  almost  im- 
mediately turned  his  head  once  more  to  the  fountain,  and  very  slowly 
and  warily  came  on.  We  now  heard  the  wounded  elephant  utter  the 
cry  of  death,  and  fall  heavily  on  the  earth.  Carey,  whose  ears  were 
damaged  by  the  bursting  of  the  big  rifle,  did  not  catch  this  sound,  but 


MORE    ELEPHANT    SHOOTING.  287 


swore  that  the  elephant  which  now  so  stealthily  approached  the  water 
was  the  one  at  which  we  had  fired. 

It  was  interesting  to  observe  this  grand  old  bull  approach  the  fountain  : 
he  seemed  to  mistrust  the  very  earth  on  which  he  stood,  and  smelt  and 
examined  with  his  trunk  every  yard  of  the  ground  before  he  trod  on  it, 
and  sometimes  stood  five  minutes  on  one  spot  without  moving.  At 
length,  having  gone  round  three  sides  of  the  fountain,  and  being  appar- 
ently satisfied  as  to  the  correctness  of  everything,  he  stepped  boldly 
forward  on  to  the  rock  on  the  west,  walking  up  within  six  or  seven  yards 
of  the  muzzles  of  our  rifles,  he  turned  his  broadside,  and,  lowering  his 
trunk  into  the  water,  drew  up  a  volume  of  water,  which  he  threw  over 
his  back  to  cool  his  person.  This  operation  he  repeated  two  or  three 
times,  after  which  he  commenced  drinking,  by  drawing  the  water  into 
his  trunk  and  then  pouring  it  into  his  mouth.  I  determined  to  break 
his  leg  if  possible,  so,  covering  the  limb  about  level  with  the  lower  line 
of  his  body,  I  fired,  Carey  firing  for  his  heart.  I  made  a  lucky  shot ; 
and  as  the  elephant  turned  and  attempted  to  make  away,  his  leg  broke 
with  a  loud  crack,  and  he  stood  upon  his  three  sound  ones.  At  once 
disabled  and  utterly  incapable  of  escaping,  he  stood  statue-like  beside  the 
fountain,  within  a  few  yards  of  where  he  had  got  the  shot,  and  only 
occasionally  made  an  attempt  at  locomotion. 

The  patch  of  my  rifle  fired  at  this  elephant's  comrade  had  ignited  a 
large  ball  of  dry  old  dung,  about  eight  yards  to  leeward  of  our  kraal, 
and  fanned  by  the  breeze,  it  was  now  burning  away  very  brightly,  the 
sparks  flying  in  the  wind.  Presently,  on  looking  about  me,  I  beheld 
two  bull  elephants  approaching  by  the  selfsame  footpath  which  the 
others  had  held.  The  first  of  these  was  a  half-grown  bull,  the  last  was 
an  out-and-out  old  fellow  with  enormous  tusks.  They  came  on  as  the 
first  had  done,  but  seemed  inclined  to  pass  to  windward  of  us.  The 
young  bull  however  observed  the  fire ;  he  at  once  walked  up  to  it 
and  smelling  at  it  with  his  trunk  he  seemed  extremely  amused,  and  in  a 
gambolling  humour  threw  his  trunk  about,  as  if  not  knowing  what  to 
think  of  it.  The  larger  bull  now  came  up,  and  exposed  a  fine  broadside ; 
we  took  him  behind  the  shoulder  and  fired  together :  on  receiving  the 
shots  he  wheeled  about  and  held  west  with  drooping  ears,  evidently 
mortally  wounded. 

Some  time  after  this  I  detected  an  enormous  old  bull  elephant 
approaching  from  the  west.  If  we  lay  still  where  we  were,  he  must  in 
a  few  minutes  get  our  wind,  so  we  jumped  up  and  ran  forward  out  of  his 
line  of  march.  Here  a  borelk  opposed  our  farther  progress,  and  we  had 
to  stone  him  out  of  our  way.  The  elephant  came  on,  and  presently  got 
the  wind  of  where  we  had  been  lying.  This  at  once  seemed  to  awake 
his  suspicions,  for  he  stood  still  among  the  trees,  stretching  his  trunk 
from  side  to  side  to  catch  the  scent,  and  doubtful  whether  he  should 
advance  or  retreat.  We  then  ran  towards  him,  and  stalked  in  within 
forty  yards  of  where  he  stood,  and  taking  up  a  position  behind  a  bush 
awaited  his  forward  movement.  The  elephant  came  slowly  forward,  and 
I  thought  would  pass  to  windward  of  us,  when  he  suddenly  altered  his 
course,  and  walked  boldly  forward  right  for  where  we  stood.     He  came 


288     HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

on  until  within  seven  or  eight  yards,  when  I  coughed  loudly  to  turn 
him.  He  tossed  up  his  trunk  and  turned  quickly  round  to  fly ;  as  he 
turned,  however,  we  fired  together,  when  the  elephant  uttered  a  shrill 
cry  of  distress,  and  crashed  away  evidently  hard  hit.  When  this  bull 
was  standing  before  us,  we  both  remarked  that  he  was  the  finest  we  had 
seen  that  night :  his  tusks  were  extremely  long,  thick,  and  very  un- 
usually wide  set. 

We  now  returned  to  the  fountain,  and  once  more  lay  down  to  watch. 
Rhinoceroses,  both  black  and  white,  were  parading  around  us  all  night 
in  every  direction.  We  had  lain  but  a  short  time  when  I  detected 
a  single  old  bull  elephant  approaching  from  the  south  by  the  same  path 
which  all  the  others  had  held.  This  elephant  must  have  been  very 
thirsty,  for  he  came  boldly  on  without  any  hesitation,  and,  keeping  to 
windward,  he  walked  past  within  about  eight  yards  of  us.  We  fired  at 
the  same  moment ;  the  elephant  wheeled  about,  and  after  running  a 
hundred  yards  reduced  his  pace  to  a  slow  walk.  I  clapped  Carey  on 
the  shoulder,  and  said,  "  We  have  him."  I  had  hardly  uttered  the 
words  when  he  fell  over  on  his  side ;  he  rose  however  again  to  his  feet. 
At  this  moment  the  same  presuming  borele  who  had  troubled  us  in  the 
early  part  of  the  night  came  up  to  us  again,  and,  declining  as  before  to 
part  by  gentle  hints,  I  thought  it  a  fitting  moment  to  put  an  end  to  his 
intrusion,  and  accordingly  gave  him  a  ball  behind  the  shoulder.  On 
receiving  it  he  galloped  off  in  tremendous  consternation,  and  passed 
close  under  the  dying  elephant,  who  at  the  moment  fell  dead  with  a 
heavy  crash,  and  broke  one  of  his  hind  legs  under  him  in  the  fall. 

About  an  hour  after  two  more  elephants  came  touring  on  from  the 
east.  When  they  came  up  they  stood  for  a  long  time  motionless  within 
forty  yards  of  the  water ;  and  at  length  the  finer  of  the  two,  which  was 
a  very  first-rate  old  bull,  and  carrying  immense  tusks,  walked  boldly 
forward,  and,  passing  round  the  north  side  of  the  fountain,  commenced 
drinking  on  the  rock  just  as  the  crippled  bull  had  done.  We  both  fired 
together,  holding  for  his  heart ;  the  bullets  must  have  gone  nearly 
through  him,  for  we  had  double  charges  of  powder  in  our  weapons. 
On  receiving  the  shots  he  dropped  a  volume  of  water  from  his  trunk, 
and,  tossing  it  aloft,  uttered  a  loud  cry  and  made  off,  steering  north ; 
but  before  he  was  out  of  our  sight  he  reduced  his  pace  to  a  slow  walk, 
and  I  could  quite  plainly  hear,  by  the  loud  painful  breathing  through 
his  trunk,  that  he  was  mortally  wounded ;  but  whether  the  natives  were 
too  lazy  to  seek  hini,  or  having  found  him  would  not  tell  me,  I  know 
not,  but  I  never  got  him.  We  shot  another  bull  elephant  shortly  after 
this ;  he  too  uttered  a  shrill  cry,  and  went  off  holding  the  same  course 
the  last  one  did ;  that  was,  however,  all  that  I  ever  saw  of  him. 

It  was  now  wearing  on  towards  morning  :  the  moon  was  low  and  the 
sky  was  cloudy ;  and  feeling  very  sleepy,  I  set  the  two  Bakalahari  to 
watch  whilst  I  lay  down  to  rest.  Carey  was  already  enjoying  a  sound 
sleep,  and  snoring  loudly.  I  had  lain  nearly  an  hour,  and  was  neither 
waking  nor  sleeping,  when  the  Bakalahari  whispered  "Clou  toona, 
macoa,"  which  signifies  "  Bull  elephants,  white  man."  I  sat  up  on  my 
kaross,  and  beheld  three  old  bulls  approaching  from  the  west.     At  this 


MORE    ELEPHANT    SHOOTING.  289 

moment  there  was  a  death-like  calm  in  the  atmosphere,  and  the  sky 
looked  very  threatening  all  along  the  mountain  range  which  bounds 
this  favourite  elephant  district  on  the  south-west.  I  greatly  feared  a 
thunderstorm.  Suddenly  a  breeze  came  whistling  from  the  mountains, 
and  gave  these  three  elephants  our  wind.  We  then  left  the  fountain 
and  held  to  our  saddles,  where  we  slept  till  the  sun  rose. 

When  the  sun  rose  I  proceeded  with  the  Bakalahari  to  inspect  the 
spoors  of  the  wounded  elephants.  I  was  struck  with  astonishment  when 
I  thought  over  our  night's  sport :  nine  times  had  first-rate  old  bull 
elephants  come  up  to  drink,  and  we  had  fired  at  eight  of  these  at  distances 
of  from  six  to  ten  yards,  with  cool  steady  rests.  Two  of  them  lay  dead 
beside  the  fountain  •  another  had  a  broken  leg,  and  could  not  escape  ; 
and  the  only  one  which  we  imagined  had  escaped  was  the  bull  with  the 
wide-set  tusks,  which  we  both  felt  certain  was  wounded  too  far  back 
in  the  body. 

The  event,  however,  proved  that  our  expectations  were  incorrect,  for 
that  afternoon  we  found  this  princely  elephant  lying  dead  very  near 
our  kraal.  Both  our  shots  were  very  far  back,  wounding  him  some- 
where about  the  kidneys.  We  never  saw  anything  of  the  four  other 
elephants  shot  by  us.  The  bull  with  the  broken  leg  had  gone  nearly  a 
mile  from  the  fountain  when  we  came  up  to  him.  At  first  he  made  vain 
attempts  to  escape,  and  then  to  charge  ;  but  finding  he  could  neither 
escape  nor  catch  any  of  us,  he  stood  at  bay  beside  a  tree,  and  my  after- 
riders  began  to  assail  him.  It  was  curious  to  watch  his  movements  as 
the  boys  at  about  twenty  yards  distance,  pelted  him  with  sticks,  etc. 
Each  thing  as  it  was  thrown  he  took  up  and  hurled  back  at  them. 
When,  however,  dry  balls  of  elephants'  dung  were  pitched  at  him,  he 
contented  himself  with  smelling  at  them  with  his  trunk.  At  length, 
wishing  to  put  an  end  to  his  existence,  I  gave  him  four  shots  behind  the 
shoulder,  when  he  at  once  exhibited  signs  of  distress  •  water  ran  from  his 
eyes,  and  he  could  barely  keep  them  open  ;  presently  his  gigantic  form 
quivered,  and,  falling  over,  he  expired.  At  night  we  again  watched  the 
fountain.  Only  one  elephant  appeared  ;  late  in  the  night  he  came  up  to 
leeward,  and  got  our  wind.  I,  however,  shot  two  fine  old  muchocho,  or 
white  rhinoceroses,  and  wounded  two  or  three  borel6,  which  were  found 
by  the  natives. 

On  the  19th  I  proceeded  with  Carey  and  Piet,  and  a  few  Bakalahari, 
to  a  small  fountain  lying  one  mile  to  the  south  :  here  we  made  two 
shooting  boxes  of  boughs  of  trees.  There  were  three  pools  at  which  the 
game  drank,  the  largest  not  being  more  than  twelve  feet  in  breadth.  I 
and  Carey  at  night  shot  one  fine  bull  elephant  and  four  rhinoceroses, 
wounding  two  others,  which  escaped.  On  the  night  following  we  also 
wounded  two  elephants,  which  got  away. 

On  the  next  night,  on  looking  up  the  open  vley  to  the  south  of  the 
fountain,  I  beheld  an  unusually  vast  bull  elephant  coming  freshly  on  to 
drink  ;  but  scared  by  a  shot  which  I  fired  at  other  game,  and  hearing  his 
courier  crashing  through  the  forest,  he  turned  out  of  his  course,  and 
walked  into  the  jungle.  Presently,  however,  he  again  appeared  a  little 
to  leeward  of  the  dead  elephant — this  scared  him  a  second  time  ;  again, 


290    HUNTING  AND   SPOBTING  ADVENTURES. 

a  third  time,  he  came  on  ;  but  on  this  occasion  he  got  a  puff  of  our  wind, 
and  a  third  time  he  retreated  into  the  forest.  It  was  now  after  midnight, 
the  sky  was  clear  and  cloudless,  and  the  moon  was  full. 

I  had  long  entertained  an  idea  that  elephants  might  be  hunted  in  the 
saddle  by  moonlight  with  dogs,  as  in  the  day  ;  but  I  thought  it  very 
probable  that  a  man  might  get  his  eyes  torn  out  by  the  wait-a-bits  ;  I 
had  also  a  notion  that  the  elephants  might  prove  more  active,  and  per- 
haps more  vicious.  This  night,  however,  I  resolved  to  put  the  question 
to  trial ;  I  had  horses  and  some  of  my  best  dogs  in  couples  beside  the 
fire,  within  two  hundred  yards  of  where  we  lay.  When  this  mighty 
elephant  retreated  for  the  third  time  into  the  forest,  the  idea  of  hunting 
them  in  this  manner  again  recurred  to  me,  being  very  much  annoyed  at 
uselessly  wounding  and  losing  in  the  last  week  no  less  than  ten  first-rate 
old  bull  elephants.  I  communicated  my  idea  to  "  Stick-in-the-mud," 
and  we  hastily  proceeded  to  saddle  my  steed. 

I  led  my  dogs,  eight  in  number,  through  the  forest  to  leeward  of 
where  a  bull  who  had  come  to  the  fountain  to  drink  had  gone  in,  and 
when  I  saw  that  they  had  got  his  wind  I  slipped  them.  They  dashed 
forward,  and  next  minute  was  heard  the  baying  of  the  dogs  and  the  crash 
and  the  trumpet  of  the  elephant.  He  rushed  away  at  first  without 
halting,  and  held  right  for  the  mountains  to  the  south-west.  When, 
however,  he  found  that  his  speed  did  not  avail,  and  that  he  could  not 
get  away  from  his  pursuers,  he  began  to  turn  and  dodge  about  in  the 
thickest  of  the  cover,  occasionally  making  charges  after  the  dogs.  I 
followed  on  as  best  I  could,  shouting  with  all  my  might  to  encourage  my 
good  hounds.  These,  hearing  their  master's  voice  beside  them,  stuck  well 
by  the  elephant,  and  fought  better  than  in  the  day.  I  gave  him  my 
first  two  shots  from  the  saddle  ;  after  which  I  rode  close  up  to  him,  and, 
running  in  on  foot,  I  gave  him  some  deadly  shots  at  distances  of  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  yards. 

The  elephant  very  soon  evinced  signs  of  distress,  and  ceased  to  make 
away  from  us.  Taking  up  positions  in  the  densest  parts  of  the  cover, 
he  caught  up  the  red  dust  with  his  trunk,  and  throwing  it  over  his  head 
and  back,  endeavoured  to  conceal  himself  in  a  cloud.  This  was  a  fine 
opportunity  to  pour  in  my  deadly  shafts,  and  I  took  care  to  avail  myself 
of  it.  When  be  had  received  about  twelve  shots  he  walked  slowly  for- 
ward in  a  dying  state,  the  blood  streaming  from  his  trunk.  I  rode  close 
up  to  him,  and  gave  him  a  sharp  right  and  left  from  the  saddle :  he 
turned  and  walked  a  few  yards,  then  suddenly  came  down  with  tremen- 
dous violence  on  his  vast  stern,  pitching  his  head  and  trunk  aloft  to  a 
prodigious  height,  and,  falling  over  on  his  side,  he  expired.  This  was 
an  extremely  large  and  handsome  elephant,  decidedly  the  finest  bull  I  had 
shot  this  year.  Afraid  of  taking  cold  or  rheumatism,  for  I  was  in  a 
most  profuse  perspiration,  I  hastened  back  to  my  fireside,  having  first 
secured  all  the  dogs  in  their  couples.  Here  I  divested  myself  of  my 
leather  trousers,  shooting-belt,  and  veltschoens,  and,  stretched  on  my 
kaross,  I  took  tea,  and  wondered  at  the  facility  with  which  I  had  cap- 
tured this  mighty  elephant. 

Feeling  fatigued,  I  intended  to  lie  down  and  rest  till  morning.     Just, 


MORE   ELEPHANT   SHOOTING.  291 

however,  as  I  was  arranging  my  saddles  for  a  pillow,  I  beheld  another 
first-rate  old  bull  elephant  advancing  up  the  vley  from  the  south.  I  at 
once  resolved  that  he,  too,  should  run  the  gauntlet  with  the  dogs.  In 
immense  haste,  therefore,  I  once  more  pulled  on  my  old  leathers,  and 
buckled  on  my  shooting-belt ;  and  ran  down  into  the  rank  long  grass 
beside  the  fountain  to  meet  him,  armed  with  the  large  two-grooved  rifle, 
having  directed  Carey  and  Piet  to  come  slowly  up  with  the  dogs  and  my 
horse  and  gun  as  soon  as  they  were  ready.  The  elephant  came  on,  and 
stood  drinking  within  thirty  yards  of  me.  When  I  saw  Carey  coming 
on  with  the  dogs  and  steed  I  fired,  but  my  rifle  hung  fire.  The  shot, 
however,  gave  the  dogs  good  courage,  and  they  fought  well.  The 
elephant  took  away  at  a  rapid  pace  toward  the  other  fountain  where  the 
Bechuanas  lay,  and  at  first  led  me  through  very  bad  wait-a-bit  thorn  cover, 
which  once  or  twice  nearly  swept  me  out  of  the  saddle.  Presently  he 
inclined  to  the  west,  and  got  into  better  country  ;  I  then  rode  close  to 
him,  and  bowled  him  over  with  four  shots.  I  also  wounded  a  fine  old 
black  rhinoceros. 

The  next  morning,  my  ammunition  being  expended,  or  very  nearly 
so,  I  despatched  Carey  to  camp  for  fresh  supplies.  When  he  was  gone 
I  walked  through  the  forest  around  the  fountain  to  seek  for  my  wounded 
game.  I  first  came  upon  the  black  rhinoceros  of  last  night,  and  a  little 
farther  on  I  observed  "  Frachum  "  snuff  up  the  wind  and  go  ahead. 
I  soon  saw  him  returning,  with  two  jackals  trotting  behind  him,  so  I  at 
once  knew  that  there  was  some  game  lying  dead  in  advance.  When  I 
had  proceeded  a  little  farther  the  dogs  ran  forward,  and  next  moment 
a  rush  of  many  feet  was  heard  charging  towards  where  I  stood.  It  was 
a  troop  of  half-grown  lions,  with  a  lioness  ;  which  dashed  past  me, 
followed  by  the  dogs.  They  had  been  feasting  on  a  white  rhinoceros, 
shot  by  me  two  nights  previously,  which  I  found  lying  a  little  in  advance. 
Beside  the  carcase  stood  a  fine  fat  calf — the  poor  thing,  no  doubt, 
fancying  that  its  mother  slept ;  heedless  of  lions,  and  all  the  other 
creatures  that  had  trodden  there,  it  had  remained  beside  its  dead  mother 
for  a  day  and  two  nights.  Rhinoceroses'  calves  always  stick  to  their 
mothers  long  after  they  are  dead.  The  next  night  I  was  again 
successful  in  a  night-hunt,  and  bagged  a  very  fine  bull  elephant.  This 
wound  up  my  elephant  night-shooting  for  that  moon,  for  next  day  there, 
was  a  most  awful  thunderstorm,  which  filled  the  forest  with  large  pools 
of  water. 

While  reviewing  my  extraordinary  good  fortune  during  the  last  week's 
hunting,  I  could  not  help  deeply  regretting  that  I  had  not  earlier  thought 
of  pursuing  the  elephants  at  night  with  dogs  and  horses :  if  I  had 
commenced  with  the  dogs  only  a  week  sooner,  I  might  have  bagged 
eight  or  ten  first-rate  bulls,  which  I  knew  were  mortally  wounded,  but 
were,  nevertheless,  not  forthcoming.  The  ivory  of  these  elephants  would 
have  brought  me  in  upwards  of  £200 ;  and  it  was  vexing  to  think  that 
many,  if  not  all  of  them,  were  lying  rotting  in  the  surrounding 
forest.  My  only  chance  of  finding  them  was  by  watching  the  vultures ; 
but  these  birds,  knowing  that  they  cannot  break  the  skin  of  the  larger 
game,  preferred  remaining  above  and  around  the  Bechuanas,  where  the 


292  HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 


butchering  was  going  briskly  forward.  They  perched  in  groups  upon 
the  old  branches  of  the  larger  trees,  or  darkened  the  sky  in  hundreds 
with  their  broad  and  shadowy  wings. 

While,  however,  I  mourned  the  loss  of  these  wounded  elephants,  I 
reckoned  that  I  had  been  favoured  with  immense  good  fortune  in  many 
instances  during  the  past  week.  Ever  intent  upon  embellishing  and 
increasing  my  princely  collection  of  African  hunting-trophies,  I  placed 
great  value  upon  any  specimen  I  happened  to  shoot  which  I  thought 
worth  adorning  it.  Thus  I  neglected  my  real  interest ;  and  instead  of 
devoting  my  attention  to  rendering  my  expedition  profitable,  I  allowed 
this  very  necessary  part  of  the  business  to  remain  quite  a  secondary 
consideration.  Thus,  when  I  shot  an  ordinary  bull  elephant,  I  was 
accustomed  to  say  to  myself,  "  Ah  !  a  good  bull ;  tusks  at  least  fifty  ■ 
pounds  each;  4s.  6d.  a  pound;  bring  me  in  =£22  10s.  Capital  day's 
work ;  help  to  pay  for  the  two  horses  that  died  last  week,  or  the  four 
that  are  bitten  with  'tsetse,'  and  must  die  in  a  week  or  two."  But  if, 
on  the  other  hand,  I  shot  an  elephant  with  a  pair  of  tusks  of  unusual 
size,  perfection,  or  beauty,  I  at  once  devoted  them  to  my  collection,  and 
valued  them  at  a  tenfold  price.  This,  then,  was  one  thing  in  which  I 
reckoned  I  had  been  extremely  fortunate — I  had  secured  the  finest  tusks 
in  all  that  nest  of  patriarchial  old  bulls  which  I  had  so  sadly  cut  up  in 
one  short  week,  and  which  perhaps  the  summers  of  a  century  had  seen 
roaming  through  these  boundless  forests  in  peaceful  security. 

The  night-shooting  being  at  an  end,  on  the  23rd  I  retraced  my  steps 
to  the  dead  elephants,  to  assist  Carey  in  superintending  the  cutting  out 
of  the  ivory,  and  in  escorting  the  same  along  with  our  supply  of  fat  and 
flesh  to  the  waggons.  Early  in  the  afternoon  we  had  got  all  ready  for 
a  start.  The  Bechuana  captains  who  were  there,  and  had  appropriated 
my  elephants  and  rhinoceroses,  and  nearly  all  the  fat,  then  brought  up 
about  fifty  men,  who  shouldered  my  impedimenta,  and  we  marched  for 
camp.  Carey  went  in  front,  I  rode  in  the  middle,  and  my  after-riders 
brought  up  the  rear.  This  long  line  of  naked  savages  threading  the 
mazes  of  the  forest,  and  bearing  home  the  spoils  of  a  few  days'  hunting, 
formed  a  truly  interesting  and  unusual  picture.  Every  man  that  was 
there  carried  something  of  mine  :  some  led  the  dogs,  some  carried  the 
guns  and  extra  ammunition,  some  cooking-vessels,  axes,  sickles,  water- 
calibashes,  provisions,  rhinoceroses'  horns,  the  elephants'  teeth,  and  an 
immense  supply  of  flesh  and  fat,  etc.,  etc.  We  made  the  Limpopo  as  the 
sun  went  down,  which  we  crossed  all  right,  and  brought  everything  safe 
to  camp.  I  made  other  excursions  from  this  encampment  in  quest  of 
elephants,  in  which  I  was  very  successful ;  but  as  they  did  not  differ  in 
their  details  from  the  many  already  described,  I  shall  not  run  the  risk 
of  wearying  my  reader  with  an  account  of  them. 

On  the  30th  one  of  those  minor  incidents  occurred  which  the  hunter 
in  these  parts  must  be  prepared  continually  to  encounter.  As  I  awoke 
that  morning  I  heard  a  scream  which  denoted  that  "Prince,"  a  most 
worthless  dog,  was  consumed  by  a  crocodile.  There  were  several  of 
these  terrible  animals  frequenting  the  still  deep  stream  beside  which  we 
lay.     They  seemed  ever  to  be  on  the  look-out  for  prey,  and  I  have  not 


THKEATEN    TO    SHOOT    THE    CHIEF.       293 


the  slightest  doubt  they  would  have  taken  one  of  us  if  we  had  ventured 
in. 

On  the  2nd  of  October,  in  the  morning,  we  packed  the  cap-tent 
waggon,  and  stowed  carefully  away  in  grass  my  favourite  tusks,  which 
I  intended  to  keep  as  specimens. 

The  next  afternoon,  whilst  making  for  the  fountain  called  Setoque, 
accompanied  by  Kapain  and  a  party  from  Bamangwato,  I  observed  a 
number  of  crows  and  vultures,  and  came  across  the  spoor  of  a  party  of 
Bakalahari.  I  at  once  felt  convinced  that  one  of  my  wounded  elephants 
lay  rotting  near  me,  but,  the  sun  being  nearly  under,  I  did  not  then 
wait,  resolving  to  seek  it  at  another  time ;  Kapain  promised  to  send  two 
of  his  companions  early  next  morning  to  see  if  I  had  not  surmised 
correctly.  These  men  next  day  arrived,  bearing  some  putrid  fat  which 
they  had  got  from  the  Bakalahari ;  and  I  at  once  said,  "  Oh,  you  have 
found  my  dead  elephant  1 "  They  answered,  "  Yes,  but  the  tusks  are 
stolen."  They  also  said  that  they  had  cut  that  fat  out  of  the  elephant. 
Kapain  then  promised  me  to  do  his  best  to  recover  the  ivory  for  me ; 
but  I  found  out,  very  soon  afterwards,  that  he  was  playing  me  false. 
Next  day  I  shot  an  old  bull  elephant. 

On  the  5th  I  began  to  think  of  hunting  no  more  across  the  Limpopo, 
as  the  season  of  rain  was  up ;  and  any  day  I  might  come  to  the  river, 
returning  from  hunting,  and  find  myself  cut  off  from  camp  by  a  mighty 
stream,  which  would  probably  remain  impassable  for  months.  I  also 
wished  to  save,  if  possible,  one  or  two  of  my  horses  from  the  "tsetse," 
as  my  stud  was  now  reduced  to  five.  I  therefore  resolved  to  return  at 
once  to  camp,  and  cross  the  Limpopo  no  more.  After  an  early  breakfast 
I  marched  thither,  with  thirteen  Bechuanas  bearing  the  tusks,  flesh,  etc. 

On  my  way  I  visited  the  remains  of  the  elephant  which  Kapain's  men 
had  found ;  it  was  the  carcase  of  an  enormous  old  bull,  no  doubt  the 
elephant  which  I  had  first  shot  on  the  night  of  the  16th  of  last  month, 
for  I  had  followed  his  spoor  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  spot.  His  tusks 
were  stolen  as  reported  ;  they  had  not  been  cut  out,  but  drawn.  The 
skull  remained  perfect,  and  was  finely  cleaned  by  hyaenas,  vultures,  and 
insects.  On  beholding  the  carcase,  I  at  once  knew  that  Kapain  had  lied 
in  saying  that  his  men  had  cut  the  fat  I  saw  with  them  out  of  the  ele- 
phant, for  it  was  evident  that  all  flesh  and  fat  had  been  at  an  end  many 
days  previously  :  the  tusks,  however,  had  quite  lately  been  drawn,  per- 
haps on  the  preceding  day.  I  felt  quite  certain  that  Kapain  was 
deceiving  me,  so  I  at  once  charged  him  with  falsehood,  and  resolved  in 
my  own  mind  to  take  some  very  strong  measures  for  the  recovery  of 
the  tusks.  I  suspected  that  a  tribe  of  Bakalahari  who  lived  not  far  from 
the  elephant,  upon  the  river,  knew  all  about  the  tusks,  for  there  were 
no  other  natives  in  that  district ;  so  I  resolved  to  ride  to  the  village  early 
next  morn,  and  threaten  to  shoot  the  chief  if  the  teeth  did  not  quickly 
appear. 

Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  the  6th,  before  it  was  clear,  four  steeds 
were  saddled  ;  and  having  taken  coffee,  I  crossed  the  Limpopo,  accom- 
panied by  Carey,  John,  and  Piet,  bearing  double-barrelled  guns,  and  held 
down  the  river  side  for  the  Bakalahari  village,  whith  we  made  in  about 


294    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

an  hour.  As  soon  as  I  observed  the  huts  I  dashed  across  their  corn-lands 
at  a  racing  pace,  and  was  standing  in  the  middle  of  the  natives  before 
they  were  aware  of  my  approach. 

The  chief  whom  I  wanted  sat  in  the  forum  with  most  of  his  men,  so, 
dismounting  from  my  horse,  I  walked  up  to  them,  and  sat  down  on  the 
ground  in  native  custom,  and,  taking  snuff  myself,  I  handed  it  round. 
While  I  was  doing  this,  John  and  Carey,  armed,  occupied  the  two  places 
of  exit  from  the  forum.  I  sat  silent  for  a  little,  and  then  said,  "  My 
heart  is  very  bitter  with  the  chief  of  this  village.  You  were  hungry, 
and  I  killed  much  flesh  and  fat  for  you.  I  told  you  that  many  of  my 
elephants  were  lying  dead,  and  that  I  wanted  their  teeth.  You  promised 
me  to  watch  the  vultures,  and  bring  me  the  teeth.  I  have  traced  your 
spoor  home  from  one  of  these  elephants.  Why  did  the  tusks  not  come 
to  my  waggons  ?  I  do  not  want  to  shed  your  blood,  but  I  require  the 
teeth  to  be  laid  immediately  before  me." 

They  all  immediately  exclaimed,  "  The  teeth  are  forthcoming,  they 
are  forthcoming  :  wait  a  little,  chief  of  the  white  men.  We  saw  the 
vultures,  and  hid  the  teeth  for  you."  I  was  delighted  to  hear  this,  but 
I  pretended  still  to  be  very  angry,  and  answered,  "  My  heart  is  still 
very  bitter,  for  you  should  have  brought  the  teeth  at  once  to  me,  and 
not  caused  me  to  come  with  guns  to  seek  my  teeth."  The  chief  then  at 
once  despatched  five  or  six  active  men  to  bring  the  teeth  ;  and  Bechuana 
beer  and  porridge  were  placed  before  me.  In  an  hour  the  men  returned, 
bearing  the  tusks  of  my  lost  elephant.  I  was  right  glad  to  see  them  : 
they  were  immense  teeth,  and  very  finely  arched,  and  almost  perfect.  I 
then  chose  some  skins  of  koodoo  and  blue  wildebeests  out  of  their  kraals 
for  packing  my  ivory  in  the  waggons,  for  which  I  promised  them  beads  ; 
after  which  I  returned  to  camp,  the  natives  going  before  me,  bearing  the 
teeth  and  skins.  These  men  had  drawn  the  tusks,  and  concealed  them 
somewhere  close  to  the  carcase  of  the  elephant. 

Here  they  would  most  probably  have  been  concealed  until  I  had  left 
the  country,  when  they  would  have  forwarded  them  to  their  chief. 
Just  as  we  reached  the  drift  we  met  a  string  of  natives  returning  from 
my  last  elephant,  bearing  flesh  and  fat.  This  was  a  fine  opportunity  for 
a  seizure.  I  selected  several  large  bundles  of  the  flesh  and  some  fat,  and 
marched  the  same  to  camp  on  the  shoulders  of  the  Bakalahari,  along  with 
the  ivory.  When  Kapain  saw  us  arrive  at  camp,  he  was  utterly  con- 
founded, and  began  to  abuse  the  Bakalahari ;  thereupon  I  bundled  him 
out  of  the  kraal.  In  the  afternoon  we  packed  the  ivory  in  the  baggage- 
waggon  ;  it  had  hitherto  lain  loose  in  the  kraal.  There  were  fifty-three 
tusks  of  bull,  and  seventeen  tusks  of  cow  elephants.  Three  pairs  of 
these  bulls'  teeth  I  intended  to  keep  in  my  collection ;  in  the  cap-tent 
were  seven  pairs  of  picked  bulls'  tusks,  and  two  pairs  of  cow-elephants' 
tusks  :  all  of  which  I  likewise  devoted  to  my  collection. 


MARCH    UP    THE    LIMPOPO.  295 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

We  inarch  up  the  Limpopo — The  Guapa  Mountains — Immense  variety  of  Game — 
Stalk  and  shoot  two  Sable  Antelopes — Several  Hounds  lost — Romantic  Eavine 
in  the  Guapa  Mountains — My  Forest  Home — Buck  Koodoos — Stalking  Sable 
Antelopes — Two  of  my  Horses  die  from  Tsetse — Continue  our  March — 
Countless  Herds  of  Game. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th  of  October  we  packed  the  waggons,  and 
about  midday  inspanned,  and  left  the  Bakalahari  village,  where  we  had 
lain  for  nearly  six  weeks.  The  old  chief  of  these  Bakalahari  looked 
extremely  downhearted  when  he  saw  us  preparing  to  depart ;  and  could 
hardly  refrain  from  crying.  I  had  come  there  and  found  them  starving; 
but  ever  since  my  arrival  they  had  had  more  good  flesh  and  fat  than 
they  could  eat.  I  had  also  employed  the  women  to  stamp  my  barley 
and  Bechuana  corn,  and  had  always  rewarded  them  liberally  with  beads, 
which  they  made  into  native  ornaments,  and  with  which  they  adorned 
their  persons.  The  old  chief  was  distinguished  by  a  snake-skin,  which 
he  wore  round  his  head.  I  gave  him  some  presents  at  parting,  and  we 
then  trekked,  holding  up  the  river,  but  at  a  considerable  distance  from 
it,  the  Limpopo  having  at  this  part  a  very  considerable  bend.  In  the 
evening  we  came  again  upon  the  river,  and  halted  at  our  ola  kraal, 
where  I  had  been  troubled  with  lions  on  the  5th  of  August.  On  the 
march  I  lost  "  Argyll,"  my  best  dog,  of  whom  I  have  often  made  mention 
in  former  expeditions,  he  having  weathered  my  two  campaigns  in  the 
Bamangwato  country.  He  was  strangled  on  the  trap  of  the  waggon, 
where  he  was  coupled  along  with  the  other  dogs. 

I  now  resolved  to  leave  the  Limpopo,  and  explore  the  country  in  a 
north-westerly  direction.  I  was  accompanied  by  a  large  body  of  Sicomy's 
men.  These  scoundrels  would  not  give  me  any  information  either  as  to 
water  or  elephants,  excepting  in  one  direction  which  suited  themselves, 
invariably  answering  my  questions  with  "  There  is  no  water  in  that 
direction,  there  are  no  elephants  there."  Thus  I  was  .left  entirely  in  the 
dark  how  to  proceed,  and  was  obliged  to  use  my  own  discretion.  About 
due  north-west  from  where  we  lay,  a  bold  mountain  range  rose  blue 
above  the  forest.  Thither  in  the  morning  I  directed  our  course,  and  in 
the  evening  we  halted  at  a  small  vley,  which  I  found  by  following  an 
elephant  footpath  ;  the  rascally  Bechuanas  swearing  that  we  should  not 
find  water  till  sundown  next  day.  On  the  march  we  started  an  ostrich 
from  her  nest,  in  which  we  found  sixteen  large  serviceable  eggs.  The 
country  through  which  we  passed  was  very  soft  and  sandy,  the  forest 
often  so  dense  as  to  compel  us  to  halt  and  use  our  axes. 

On  the  13th  we  reached  a  strong  succession  of  fountains,  forming  a 
running  stream  of  pure  water.  Here  the  country  became  extremely 
beautiful ;  a  very  wide  and  finely  wooded  valley  stretched  away  into 
the  bosom  of  the  mountains,  ending  in  a  bold  ravine.  This  district  I 
discovered  to  be  the  abode  of  a  considerable  tribe  called  "Moroking." 
Their  cultivated  corn-lands  stretched  away  on  every  side  of  the  fountain. 


296    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


Here  I  outspanned,  and  presently  the  chief  and  all  his  people  came  to 
me,  highly  pleased  that  I  had  visited  them.  These  men  were  dependents 
of  Sicomy,  and  for  some  reason  which  I  could  not  comprehend,  had  been 
instructed  by  the  Bamangwato  natives  not  to  give  me  any  information 
regarding  the  elephants  or  the  waters  in  advance.  At  night  we  were 
visited  by  a  terrible  and  long-protracted  thunderstorm,  and  much  rain 
fell,  rendering  the  country  very  unfit  for  trekking. 

The  next  morning  I  shot  a  large  wild  goose,  a  splendid  bird,  its 
general  colour  dark  glossy  green,  with  white  patches  on  its  sides  and 
beneath  its  wings.  While  seeking  for  wild  fowl  along  the  edge  of  the 
stream  I  almost  trod  upon  the  tail  of  a  fearful  "  cobra,"  which  instantly 
reared  its  head  on  high  and  spread  its  neck  out  like  the  Indian  cobra. 
Before  it  could  strike,  however,  I  sprang  to  one  side  and  escaped  its 
deadly  fangs  ;  Ruyter  and  I  then  slew  him  with  sticks  and  stones.  The 
chief  of  the  Moroking,  and  all  his  people,  both  men  and  women,  came 
again  to  see  the  white  man,  the  waggons,  and  the  oxen :  they  still 
persisted  in  saying  that  there  were  no  elephants  in  advance.  As  the 
country  was  now  quite  unfit  for  trekking,  and  probably  I  might  not  find 
elephants  until  I  had  proceeded  to  a  great  distance,  I  resolved  to  turn 
back.  Accordingly,  after  breakfast  we  trekked,  and  halted  for  the  night 
at  the  fountain  we  had  left  on  the  preceding  day.  On  the  march  I 
shot  an  extremely  beautiful  wood-pigeon ;  its  back  and  tail  were  grass- 
green,  j,t&  thighs  bright  orange,  its  bill  and  feet  bright  coral  red. 

On  the  15th  at  sunrise  we  inspanned,  and  held  on  until  late  in  the 
afternoon,  steering  for  the  mountain  of  Gluapa,  where  I  had  seen  sable 
antelope  on  the  16th  of  July.  We  halted  for  the  night  without  water; 
during  the  night  rain  fell.  On  the  march  we  saw  spoor  of  eland ;  my  troop 
of  dogs  took  away  after  a  herd  of  zebras,  one  of  which  broke  Filbert's 
shoulder  with  a  kick,  so  as  I  was  obliged  to  shoot  him.  This  was  a  sad 
loss  to  me  ;  Filbert  was  the  best  dog  I  had  left. 

Next  day  at  dawn  we  marched,  holding  for  a  vley  close  under  the  blue 
mountain  in  advance.  Having  proceeded  some  miles  we  fell  in  with 
springboks,  zebras,  blue  gnoos ;  and,  soon  after,  to  my  surprise,  an  old 
kookama  or  oryx,  carrying  a  superb  pair  of  horns,  started  away  before 
the  waggons.  My  dogs  were  fresh  and  hungry  :  they  were  instantly 
slipped,  and  dashed  forward  on  the  scent  of  the  oryx.  Unluckily,  a  wild 
dog  sprang  up  right  in  their  path,  to  which  they  at  once  gave  chase,  and 
thus  I  lost  this  most  splendid  antelope. 

I  walked  ahead  of  the  waggons  with  my  rifle,  and  soon  started  two 
pairs  of  ostriches.  I  was  going  down  wind,  and  kept  starting  the  game. 
I  next  sent  away  a  herd  of  zebras  and  brindled  gnoos ;  next  a  sounder 
of  wild  boar ;  next  a  troop  of  giraffes  ;  and,  close  to  the  vley  where  I 
intended  to  halt,  I  wounded  a  koodoo,  which  left  a  bloody  spoor,  that  I 
did  not  choose  to  follow.  The  vley  to  which  I  had  been  trusting  proved 
dry.  We  outspanned  here  for  an  hour,  however,  and  then  held  round 
the  western  extremity  of  this  fine  mountain-range  ;  and  as  the  sun  went 
down  I  halted  my  waggons  on  its  south  side,  opposite  the  mouth  of  a 
bold  and  well-wooded  ravine,  which  contained  a  strong  fountain.  On 
the  march  I  rode  ahead  of  my  waggons  on  the  spoor  of  two  old  buffaloes, 


ZEBRAS,  ANTELOPES,  AND  RHINOCEROSES.   297 


which  our  waggon-whips  had  started ;  these  had  gone  out  of  my  course, 
so  I  did  not  follow  far.  Returning,  I  came  to  a  black  rhinoceros,  which 
I  wounded,  but  did  not  get.  As  I  neared  the  ravine  where  I  intended 
to  halt,  I  stalked  in  close  upon  a  second  black  rhinoceros,  which  on 
receiving  two  deadly  shots  charged  madly  forward  and  subsided  in  the 
dust.  A  few  minutes  after  firing  at  Borel6  I  was  following  a  troop  of 
pallahs  close  under  the  green  rocky  mountain,  when,  lo  !  a  herd  of  the 
lovely  sable  antelope  caught  my  attention.  These  were  quietly  browsing 
on  a  shoulder  of  the  mountain  among  the  green  trees  far,  far  above  me. 
I  instantly  threw  off  my  leathers,  and  proceeded  to  stalk  in  upon  them. 
An  old  doe  detected  me,  however,  and,  instantly  sounding  the  alarm, 
the  herd,  which  consisted  of  eight — three  coal-black  bucks  and  five  does 
— dashed  off,  and  took  through  a  rocky  ravine. . 

As  it  was  too  late  in  the  day  to  follow  them  farther,  I  turned  my  face 
towards  my  horses,  which  I  had  left  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  ;  and 
straining  my  eyes  along  the  level  forest  beneath  me  to  seek  my  waggons, 
which  were  now  due,  I  detected  them  far  out  from  the  mountain, 
steering  to  go  past  the  fountain.  I  then  fired  a  signal  shot,  which 
brought  them  up.  This  unlucky  shot  started  away  two  bull  elephants 
which  were  feeding  in  the  thorn  cover  close  beneath  me.  I  drew  up  my 
waggons  in  an  open  spot  more  than  half  a  mile  from  the  fountain,  wait- 
a-bit  thorns  forbidding  our  nearer  approach. 

The  17th  was  a  very  cool  and  clondy  day ;  I  took  an  early  breakfast, 
and  then  held  north-east,  close  in  under  the  mountain-range,  accompanied 
by  Kapain  and  a  party  of  Bakalahari,  to  seek  elephants. 

We  fell  in  with  immense  herds  of  zebras  and  buffaloes  numbering 
between  three  and  five  hundred  in  each  herd,  and  towards  evening  with 
a  numerous  herd  of  elephants,  when  I  killed  one  of  the  finest  after  an 
easy  chase. 

After  several  unsuccessful  stalks  for  sable  antelope  I  at  length  met  with 
the  success  my  perseverance  deserved.  Returning  in  the  afternoon  of 
the  20th  homewards,  I  suddenly  observed  a  herd  of  about  ten  of  them 
in  open  cover  on  the  mountain's  ridge,  upon  which  I  commenced  ascend- 
ing the  rugged  acclivity  as  fast  as  I  could,  for  the  daylight  would  be 
gone  in  a  very  short  time.  When  I  got  within  two  hundred  yards  of 
them,  I  found  it  impossible  to  get  in  any  nearer,  for  I  must  cross  a  stony 
flat  in  sight  of  several  of  the  ever  wary  does  ;  it  was,  moreover,  now  so 
late  that  I  could  not  well  see  the  sights  of  my  rifle.  I  had  almost 
resolved  not  to  disturb  them,  and  to  return  to  camp  :  on  second  thoughts, 
however,  I  resolved  to  give  it  a  trial.  I  made  a  successful  stalk,  and 
crossed  this  dangerous  rocky  flat  unobserved.  There  was  no  moss  nor 
heather  under  my  knees,  but  a  mass  of  adamantine  fragments  of  rock ; 
yet  this  I  did  not  heed,  so  I  succeeded  in  my  stalk. 

Having  crossed  the  flat,  I  soon  stalked  within  shot,  when,  raising  my 
rifle  slowly,  I  fired  at  a  lovely  old  doe  which  stood  on  my  left.  The  ball 
passed  right  through  her  a  little  behind  the  shoulder;  she  bounded 
down  hill,  when  I  fired  my  second  barrel  at  her,  but,  owing  to  the 
darkness,  I  missed.  The  potaquaines  above  me,  seeing  nothing  and 
smelling  nothing,  stood  bewildered  until  I  had  reloaded,  lying  on  my 


298    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


side.  I  then  shot  another  splendid  doe  with  a  perfect  pair  of  wide-set 
horns,  putting  two  bullets  through  her  fore-quarters.  She,  however,  took 
two  more  balls  before  she  lay,  when  I  put  a  fifth  bullet  into  her  to  stop 
her  kicking,  as  she  was  injuring  her  horns  on  the  rocky  ground.  By 
this  time  the  sun  was  under  and  the  moon  shone  bright.  Highly 
gratified  at  my  success,  I  now  cut  off  this  magnificent  antelope's  head,  and 
descended  the  mountain  with  a  slow  and  careful  step.  The  other  pota- 
quaine  did  not  leave  the  ground,  and  I  got  her  also  next  day. 

I  now  reckoned  my  collection  of  African  trophies  as  almost  perfect. 
Last  year  I  shot  an  old  buck  potaquaine  in  the  Bamangwato  country, 
which  I  had  carefully  preserved ;  and  I  had  now  shot  two  splendid  does, 
which  was  what  I  most  particularly  required  to  complete  my  collection. 
I  still  wanted  heads  of  the  "bluebuck,"  or  "kleenbok,"  "Vaal  rheebok," 
"  ourebi,"  and  "  reitbok  ;  "  but  these  were  abundant  in  the  colony,  and 
were  not  hard  to  get. 

Next  morning  I  ascended  the  mountain  to  secure  the  flesh  of  the  dead 
potaquaine  and  to  secure  the  wounded  one.  I  found  her  still  alive,  and 
on  seeing  me  she  made  off;  I,  however,  followed  her  up,  and,  making  a 
correct  stalk  barefooted,  I  shot  her  where  she  stood ;  she  proved  a  very 
old  doe. 

The  23rd  was  a  very  cool  and  cloudy  morning,  and  looked  likely  for 
light  rain.  At  an  early  hour  I  left  my  waggons  with  some  provisions, 
and  ascended  the  mountain  to  the  north-east  to  seek  sable  antelope. 
Soon  after  gaining  the  upper  heights  of  the  mountain  I  had  the  satis- 
faction to  detect  a  fine  herd  of  these  feeding  among  the  trees  on  the 
table  summit  of  a  ridge  of  the  mountain,  which  stretched  away  to  the 
east.  I  determined  to  stalk  them  in  true  Highland  fashion,  and  to  use 
my  very  best  endeavours  to  ensure  success;  accordingly,  having  surveyed 
the  ground,  I  made  a  cast  to  leeward,  and  approached  the  herd  upon  my 
belly.  When  I  got  within  two  hundred  yards  of  them  I  found  it  was 
impossible  to  approach  nearer  on  that  side,  so  I  was  obliged  to  creep 
away  back  again,  and  try  to  come  upon  them  from  another  quarter. 
When  next  I  crept  in,  the  herd  had  vanished,  and  I  could  not  find  them 
for  some  time.  At  length,  however,  I  came  suddenly  upon  them,  when 
the  herd  rushed  in  a  semicircle  round  me.  I  ran  forward  as  hard  as  I 
could,  and,  pulling  suddenly  up,  fired  at  the  big  black  buck  as  he  dashed 
past  me  at  top  speed  ;  the  ball  told  loudly,  and  the  buck  bent  up  his 
back  to  the  shot. 

They  now  charged  for  the  southern  ridge  of  the  mountain,  and  dis- 
appeared over  it  at  a  tremendous  pace.  I  quickly  loaded,  and  proceeded 
to  take  up  the  spoor,  and  at  once  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  great  spouts 
of  blood  all  along  the  spoor  of  the  patriarchal  old  black  buck.  This  gave 
me  high  hopes  of  success ;  I  waited  a  few  minutes,  and  whistled  for  the 
Bechuanas,  who  immediately  came  up  to  me  with  "Bles"  and  "Affriar," 
two  right  good  dogs.  When  the  wounded  buck  had  proceeded  a  short 
distance  down  the  mountain's  face,  he  left  the  herd  and  slanted  away  by 
himself.  In  a  few  minutes,  however,  I  espied  him  :  he  stood  about  three 
hundred  yards  from  me,  under  a  low  tree  on  the  rocky  mountain  side, 
with  drooping  head  and  outstretched  tail,  which  he  kept  constantly 


AN    EXCITING    CHASE.  299 

• 

whisking  from  side  to  side,  and  he  was  evidently  extremely  sick.  As 
he  exhibited  no  intention  of  going  farther,  and  as  the  waggons  were 
near,  I  thought  it  would  be  a  fine  opportunity  to  give  all  the  dogs  blood ; 
so  I  despatched  Ruyter  to  camp  to  fetch  them,  and  I  remained  stationary 
and  watched  the  wounded  potaquaine.  After  standing  in  one  spot  for 
some  time,  he  made  a  few  tottering  steps,  then  lay  heavily  down  in  the 
grass  as  if  dead,  and  nothing  was  visible  but  his  side. 

This  was  most  satisfactory  :  there,  on  the  side  of  his  native  rugged 
mountain,  lay  the  ever-wary,  the  scarce,  the  lovely,  long-sought  sable 
antelope,  and  a  most  noble  specimen — perhaps  the  finest  buck  in  all  the 
district.  His  ever-watchful  eye  was  now  sunk  in  the  long  grass ;  and  as 
he  was  lying  beside  a  little  ravine,  and  a  stiff  breeze  was  blowing,  I 
could,  if  I  had  chosen,  have  crept  in  within  thirty  yards  of  him,  and 
shot  him  dead  on  the  spot;  but  so  far  from  doing  this,  I  rather  lamented 
that  he  was  thus  badly  wounded,  for  I  feared  that  he  would  not  have  life 
enough  left  to  show  a  good  fight  when  the  dogs  came  up.  It  has  been 
truly  said  that  there  is  many  a  slip  between  the  cup  and  the  lip,  and  the 
truth  of  this  old  saying  I  was  about  most  bitterly  to  experience.  In 
half  an  hour  the  Bushman  came  on  with  three  Bechuanas,  leading  all 
my  best  dogs.  I  went  up  to  the  potaquaine.  He  had  arisen,  and  was 
looking  at  us  as  we  came  on ;  when  I  approached  within  a  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  of  him  he  disappeared  over  the  ridge.  I  did  not,  however, 
slip  the  trustless  dogs  until  they  should  be  on  his  scent  or  see  him. 
When  I  gained  the  ridge  I  again  beheld  him  standing  within  a  hundred 
yards  of  "me.  I  now  slipped  all  my  trustiest  hounds  ;  they  ran  forward 
towards  the  buck,  and  then  took  away  up  the  hill,  where,  finding 
nothing,  they  presently  came  down  again,  and,  after  snuffing  about  for 
a  little,  followed  up  the  scent  of  the  buck. 

All  this  time  the  potaquaine  remained  utterly  motionless,  regarding 
the  dogs  with  a  wicked  eye.  They,  however,  did  not  observe  him  until 
they  were  within  about  ten  yards  of  him,  when  he  stamped  his  foot,  and 
turned  as  if  to  fight  with  them.  The  dogs  opened  a  bay,  and  the  next 
instant  the  potaquaine  bounded  through  the  middle  of  them,  and, 
holding  down  the  mountain  side,  was  out  of  my  sight  in  two  seconds, 
the  dogs  all  at  his  heels. 

I  pressed  forward  in  the  most  perfect  confidence  of  an  immediate  bay ; 
but  when  I  obtained  a  view  of  the  open  forest  around  the  mountain's 
base,  nor  dog  nor  potaquaine  could  I  see  ;  neither  could  I  hear  a  sound. 
I  thought  the  chase  must  have  led  up  wind,  so  I  held  on  at  my  best 
pace  along  the  rugged  mountain's  side. 

I  gained  shoulder  after  shoulder,  and  opened  fresh  ground,  but 
nothing  living  could  I  see,  nor  could  I  hear  a  sound.  To  make  matters 
worse,  it  was  blowing  half  a  gale  of  wind.  Most  thoroughly  confounded, 
I  now  in  haste  retraced  my  steps  to  the  natives.  These  useless  creatures 
I  found  sitting  just  where  I  had  slipped  the  dogs.  In  vain  I  asked  them 
whither  they  were  gone ;  they  only  put  me  wrong,  and  lost  me  the  day; 
for  they  declared  that  they  had  watched  the  ground  below  to  leeward, 
and  that  no  dog  had  gone  in  that  course.  They  had,  however,  gone  that 
way,  and  were  at  that  moment  baying  a  fresh  buck  very  near  me,  but 


300  HIT  NTING-  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

the  unlucky  wind  prevented  me  from  hearing  them.  I  hastily  retraced 
my  steps  once  more  up  wind,  and,  after  proceeding  a  little  farther  than 
I  had  been  before,  I  saw  "  Alert,"  a  very  uncertain  animal  which  I  had 
long  possessed,  returning  towards  me. 

The  dogs  have  then  gone  up  wind,  I  thought  to  myself,  and  they  have 
the  buck  at  bay  in  advance.  Next  moment,  however,  to  my  utter 
amazement,  I  beheld  my  wounded  potaquaine  standing  in  the  forest 
below  me,  and  not  a  single  dog  near  him.  I  was  now  aware  that  my 
dogs  had  fallen  in  with  some  other  bucks  which  I  was  not  aware  of, 
and  were  gone  I  knew  not  whither.  After  waiting  an  hour  for  them,  I 
endeavoured  to  stalk  in  on  the  potaquaine ;  it  was  bad  ground,  and  he 
saw  me  and  made  off.  He  went  but  a  short  distance,  however,  and 
stood  again  in  a  drooping  attitude  beneath  a  tree  ;  the  Bechuanas  tried 
to  drive  him  to  a  position  which  I  took  up,  when  he  left  the  ground,  and 
I  never  saw  him  again. 

When  I  returned  to  my  camp,  my  people  told  me  that  the  dogs  had 
bayed  a  buck  for  a  long  time  under  the  mountain,  within  hearing  of  the 
waggons,  and  that  the  sounds  had  died  away,  as  if  they  had  pulled  him 
down  and  killed  him.  On  hearing  this  I  at  once  saddled  up  two  steeds, 
and  rode  in  that  direction  to  seek  my  dogs,  but  saw  nothing  of  them, 
and,  night  setting  in,  I  returned  to  camp.  Next  day  three  of  the  dogs 
returned ;  they  were  covered  with  the  blood  of  the  potaquaine  they  had 
killed,  and  one  of  them  was  wounded  by  his  horns.  I,  however,  never 
found  the  remains  of  either  this  buck  or  the  one  I  had  shot,  nor  did  I 
see  more  of  my  three  good  dogs  which  were  missing ;  no  doubt  they 
had  all  been  found  by  the  natives,  and  stolen  by  them. 

I  resolved  on  the  26th  to  make  an  expedition  on  foot  across  the 
mountain,  and  hunt  in  its  northern  limits  for  a  few  days.  I  accordingly 
started  with  Ruyter  and  four  Bechuanas  bearing  my  bedding,  pots, 
water,  and  other  impedimenta.  Having  ascended  the  upper  heights  of 
the  mountain,  I  crossed  to  its  western  ridges,  and  held  for  its  northern 
limits ;  and  when  the  sun  went  down  I  halted  beneath  a  green  tree, 
where  I  slept. 

I  made  my  coffee  by  moonlight  before  the  day  dawned  ;  and  when  it 
was  clear  I  stalked  along  the  upper  ridges  of  the  mountain.  Presently, 
peeping  over  a  rocky  and  well-wooded  ridge,  I  saw  a  small  troop  of  doe 
koodoos,  one  of  which  I  shot  for  food.  Immediately  below  where  this 
koodoo  fell  was  a  lonely  kraal  of  Bakalahari.  These  men  had  chosen 
for  their  place  of  residence  a  wild  and  most  romantic  ravine  which  here 
parted  the  mouDtain  for  a  distance  of  about  a  mile,  forming  a  deep  and 
almost  impassable  gulf.  At  the  upper  end  of  this  ravine  was  a  most 
delicious  fountain,  forming  a  strong  running  stream,  which  wound- 
along  the  shady  depths  of  this  wild  and  most  secluded  spot.  When 
these  Bakalahari  heard  the  report  of  my  rifle  echoing  through  their 
valley,  they  left  their  pots  upon  their  fires,  and  fled  to  a  man.  My 
Bechuanas,  however,  eventually  got  them  to  come  back  again,  and  they 
cut  up  for  me  my  koodoo,  and  carried  the  flesh  to  a  shady  tree  on  the 
table  summit  of  this  tabular  range,  immediately  above  the  strong 
fountain  in  the  gulf  beneath  me. 


SHOOTING    SABLE    ANTELOPE.  301 

This  spot  I  selected  to  be  my  forest  home  for  a  short  time ;  and  here 
I  spent  some  merry  days,  and  feasted  like  a  prince  on  fat  vension, 
marrow-bones,  Bechuana  corn,  Bechuana  beer,  tea,  coffee,  biscuit,  etc. 
I  was  also  provided  with  a  rich  dessert  consisting  of  a  delicious  African 
fruit  called  "  moopooroo,"  which  was  now  ripe  and  extremely  abundant 
throughout  this  range.  This  fine  fruit  grows  on  a  tree  with  a  very  dark 
green  leaf ;  the  fruit  is  the  size  and  shape  of  a  large  olive,  and  when 
ripe  is  bright  orange.  In  the  afternoon  I  went  out  with  Euyter,  and 
found  four  buck  koodoos  on  the  northern  ridge  of  the  mountain.  I 
wounded  one  of  these,  and  followed  up  his  bloody  spoor,  and,  coming 
on  him  in  cover  on  the  mountain  side,  I  broke  his  fore-leg  with  a  second 
shot;  he,  however,  took  away  down  to  the  level  forest  beneath,  and 
there  I  lost  him. 

At  earliest  dawn  next  day  I  held  down  wind  with  Euyter,  and 
presently  found  fresh  spoor  of  a  herd  of  sable  antelope  which  had  got 
my  wind,  and  they  were  off.  I  then  inclined  my  steps  in  the  direction  in 
which  their  spoor  led,  and  presently  we  observed  them  among  the  trees 
within  three  hundred  yards  of  us,  some  lying  and  some  standing.  One 
of  the  old  does  soon  observed  us.  We  sat  gently  down  in  the  grass, 
however,  and  I  crept  away  back,  and  made  a  very  fine  stalk  upon  the 
herd  in  very  difficult  ground.  I  was  obliged  to  do  a  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  of  it  on  my  breast.  A  wary  old  doe  kept  sentry,  and  prevented 
my  approaching  within  a  hundred  yards.  I  therefore  took  this  doe,  and 
shot  her  with  a  bullet  in  the  shoulder.  I  then  sent  Euyter  for  the 
natives  and  at  once  despatched  the  head  to  camp  to  be  stuffed. 

In  the  evening  I  fell  in  again  with  this  same  troop  of  potaquaines  on 
the  northern  range  of  the  mountain.  They  heard  me  coming  on  before 
I  was  aware  of  them,  and  held  up  wind  over  very  rocky  ground  and 
through  thick  cover.  I  followed  on  in  their  wake  like  an  old  staghound, 
keeping  close  to  them,  and  always  halting  when  they  halted  ;  thus  they 
did  not  observe  me,  and  at  last  I  got  close  in  upon  them.  I  could  then 
have  had  a  fine  shot  at  several  of  the  does,  but  I  wanted  the  old  black 
buck.  I  aimed  for  his  heart,  but  an  unlucky  branch  intervened,  and, 
altering  the  line  of  my  ball,  lost  me  this  most  noble  animal.  I,  however, 
fired  a  snap  shot  at  him  with  my  left  barrel,  and  sent  a  bullet  through 
his  flank.  The  herd  then  dashed  down  the  mountain  side,  making  a 
tremendous  rumpus  among  the  loose  masses  of  rock,  the  old  buck  leaving 
a  bloody  spoor.  I  did  not  disturb  them  further  then,  the  sun  being 
under,  but  returned  to  my  home  beneath  the  greenwood  tree. 

I  followed  the  old  buck  up  next  day,  but  without  success,  and  on  the 
31st  I  determined  to  return  to  my  waggons.  Accordingly,  at  dawn  of 
day  I  rolled  up  my  bedding,  and,  directing  my  Bechuanas  to  go  and  call 
Bakalahari  to  carry  my  flesh  and  impedimenta  to  camp,  I  held  a  south- 
westerly course  across  the  mountains  with  Euyter  and  a  Bechuana  boy. 
This  morning  richly  repaid  me  for  all  my  toil  and  exertions  in  following 
the  sable  antelope  throughout  these  stony  and  rugged  mountains. 
Having  proceeded  about  a  mile  down  wind,  on  looking  over  a  height  which 
commanded  a  fine  view  of  well-wooded  undulating  table-land  below  me, 
I  had  the  sincere  pleasure  to  behold  a  beautiful  herd  of  sable  antelopes 

19 


302   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


feeding  quietly  up  wind  a  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  me.  The  herd 
consisted  of  seven  does  and  one  coal-black  magnificent  old  buck.  Even 
at  the  distance  at  which  they  then  were,  I  could  very  plainly  see  that 
this  buck  was  a  most  superb  specimen ;  his  horns  seemed  almost  too 
large  for  him,  and  swept  back  over  his  shoulders  with  a  determined  and 
perfect  curve. 

I  sat  some  time  to  watch  their  movements,  and  gazed  upon  them  with 
intense  delight.  The  ground  on  which  they  were  feeding  being  very 
level,  and  observing  that  the  does  were  extremely  wary,  I  thought  the 
best  way  to  stalk  them  would  be  to  cut  in  before  them  to  windward,  as 
they  were  proceeding  in  that  direction,  taking  care  of  course  to  keep  out 
of  their  way  sufficiently  far  to  ensure  their  not  getting  my  wind.  I 
then  crept  back  from  the  ridge  where  I  had  observed  them,  and,  describ- 
ing a  semicircle,  crept  in  on  my  knees  through  the  large  rough  stones. 
The  does  came  freshly  on,  and  inclined  their  course  to  the  spot  where  I 
lay  flat  on  my  belly  awaiting  their  forward  movement.  They  continued 
to  approach  until  one  fine  old  doe  was  within  range  of  my  rifle.  When, 
however,  they  had  come  thus  far,  they  seemed  all  at  once  to  change 
their  minds,  and  after  feeding  about  for  a  few  minutes  they  took  another 
track  and  altered  their  course  from  east  to  north.  I  then  divested  my- 
self of  my  shoes  and  shooting-belt,  and  commenced  following  them  up. 

Presently,  however,  I  observed  a  wary  old  doe,  which  had  fed  away 
among  the  trees  apart  from  her  comrades,  standing  looking  at  me.  My 
position  was  a  very  awkward  one ;  but  I  dared  not  alter  it,  as  this 
would  have  lost  me  the  day,  so  I  remained  motionless  as  the  rocks  over 
which  I  crept,  and  presently  her  patience  was  exhausted,  and  she  ceased  to 
suspect  me,  and  held  on  to  her  comrades.  I  now  made  up  my  mind  that 
it  was  impossible  to  do  anything  with  them  where  they  then  were,  and 
that  it  would  be  best  to  watch  them  from  a  distance  until  they  should 
move  into  some  more  uneven  ground,  where  a  stalker  would  have  some 
chance  with  them. 

Having  thus  resolved,  I  beat  a  retreat,  and  returned  to  the  ridge  above, 
where  I  had  at  first  made  them  out.  Here  I  again  sat,  and  with  a 
longing  heart  watched  the  movements  of  these  loveliest  of  Afric's  lovely 
antelopes.  I  was  struck  with  admiration  at  the  magnificence  of  the  noble 
old  black  buck,  and  I  vowed  in  my  heart  to  slay  him,  although  I  should 
follow  him  for  a  twelvemonth.  The  old  fellow  seemed  very  fidgety  in 
his  movements,  and  while  the  does  fed  steadily  on  he  lagged  far  behind, 
occasionally  taking  a  mouthful  of  grass,  and  then  standing  for  a  few 
minutes  under  the  trees,  rubbing  his  huge,  knotted,  scimitar-shaped 
horns  upon  their  branches.  At  length  the  does  had  fed  away  a  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  from  him,  and  he  still  lagged  behind.  This  was  the  golden 
moment  to  make  a  rapid  stalk  in  upon  him,  while  his  everwatchful 
sentinels  were  absent.  I  saw  my  chance,  and  stole  rapidly  down  the 
rocky  hill-side  and  gained  the  level  on  which  the  herd  were  pasturing. 
He  was  now  obscured  from  my  view  by  the  bushy  dwarfish  trees  which 
adorned  the  ground ;  the  next  move  was  to  get  my  eye  upon  him  before 
he  should  observe  me  :  I  stole  stealthily  forward  and  detected  him.  He 
was  still  feeding  very  slowly  on  after  the  does,  and  seemed  quite  unsus- 


SHOOTING    SABLE    ANTELOPE.  303 

picious.  I  then  instantly  cast  off  my  shoes  and  shooting-belt,  and, 
watching  the  lowering  of  his  noble  horns,  my  eye  fixed  tiger-like  upon 
him,  stalked  rapidly  in.  My  heart  beat  with  anxiety  as  I  advanced,  and 
was  almost  within  shot ;  twenty  yards  nearer  and  I  would  fire.  Again 
he  lowered  his  head  to  crop  the  young  grass ;  I  seized  the  moment,  and 
the  twenty  yards  were  won. 

Here  was  a  young  tree  with  a  fork,  from  which  I  had  resolved  to  fire. 
The  potaquaine  stood  with  his  round  stern  right  to  me.  I  took  a  deadly 
aim  and  fired  :  the  ball  entered  very  near  his  tail,  and  passing  through 
the  length  of  his  vitals  rested  in  his  breast.  He  staggered  about  for  a 
second,  and  then,  bounding  forward  about  sixty  yards,  he  halted,  and 
looked  to  see  from  whence  the  deadly  shaft  had  sped  that  had  thus  so 
unceremoniously  disturbed  his  morning  meal.  The  sights  of  my  rifle 
were  still  fixed  upon  him,  and  just  as  he  pulled  up  and  exposed  to  me 
his  full  broadside  a  second  bullet  left  the  ringing  steel,  and  crashed 
through  the  very  centre  of  the  old  fellow's  shoulder. 

On  receiving  this  second  shot  the  sable  antelope  wheeled  about  and 
held  after  the  does,  and  I  knew  from  his  movement,  though  his  pace 
was  good,  that  he  had  got  the  ball  in  his  shoulder  and  could  not  go  very 
far.  I  then  walked  leisurely  back  to  seek  my  shoes  and  shooting-belt, 
and,  having  found  them,  I  was  loading  my  rifle,  when  the  Bushman, 
who  had  been  watching  my  stalk  from  the  height  above,  joined  me,  and 
said  that  the  buck  had  run  but  a  short  distance,  and  had  lain  down 
under  a  tree.  I  stole  carefully  forward  and  immediately  observing  him 
lying  as  if  still  alive,  his  noble  head  not  laid  on  the  ground,*but  in  an 
upright  posture.  Fancying  him  still  alive,  and  having  too  often  been 
tricked  with  wounded  antelopes,  I  then  gave  him  a  third  bullet,  but  the 
dark  form  of  this  lovely  habitant  of  the  mountain  quailed  not  to  the 
shot ;  the  spirit  of  the  sable  antelope  had  fled. 

I  was  transported  with  delight  when  I  came  up  and  saw  the  surpassing 
beauty  and  magnificence  of  the  invaluable  trophy  I  had  won.  This 
potaquaine  was  very  old,  and  his  horns  were  enormous,  fair  set,  perfect, 
and  exquisitely  beautiful.  I  cut  off  his  head,,  and,  leaving  men  to  convey 
the  flesh  to  camp,  I  held  thither  in  advance,  escorting  my  hard-won 
trophy.  On  my  way  to  camp,  coming  down  the  footpath  from  the 
fountain,  to  my  dejectment  I  found  the  untameable  Mazeppa  stretched 
to  rise  no  more,  and  half  consumed  by  hysenas  and  vultures;  he  had  died 
of  horse-sickness.  The  reduction  of  my  stock  by  the  fell  hand  of  death 
during  this  week  was,  alas  !  not  confined  to  Mazeppa  only ;  the  pony  I 
bought  of  my  cousin  Colonel  Campbell  died  of  "  tsetse,"  a  valuable  fore- 
ox  died  of  some  severe  sickness,  and  "  Fox,"  a  very  good  dog,  died  of 
the  African  distemper ;  three  of  my  very  best  dogs  had  also  mysteriously 
disappeared  the  day  they  chased  the  potaquaine. 

We  remained  in  the  neighbourhood  frequented  by  the  sable  antelope 
for  several  days  longer,  but  I  did  not  succeed  in  killing  another,  although 
with  other  game  of  every  kind  I  met  with  great  success. 


304   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Leave  the  Potaquaine  Country — Absurd  Ceremony — My  Cattle  fail  me — Send  to 
the  Missionary  Station  for  Aid — Encamp  near  the  Limpopo — Indescribable 
Fish — A  young  Secretary — Nearly  all  my  Oxen  die — Assistance  arrives  from 
Mr.  Livingstone — We  reach  the  Residence  of  Sichely — A  Hunter's  Monument 
— We  continue  our  March  through  a  beautiful  Country — An  Adventure  with  two 
savage  Lionesses — A  violent  Tempest — Mahura — Bakalahari  driving  Game 
towards  their  Pitfalls — We  cross  the  Orange  River  and  reach  Colesberg. 

On  the  15th  of  November  we  inspanned,  and  left  the  mountains  of 
Linguapa.  Rapain  and  his  Bechuanas  held  for  Bamangwato  ;  Seleka's 
Bechuanas  held  for  their  chief;  and  we  held  a -south-westerly  course  for 
the  Limpopo,  which  we  reached  in  less  than  three  hours. 

Next  day  we  trekked  at  dawn,  and  having  marched  a  few  miles  we 
were  joined  by  Bakalahari,  who  reported  having  seen  elephants  on  the 
preceding  day.  A  little  after  this  I  shot  a  waterbuck  close  to  the  river, 
when  I  outspanned. 

During  the  day  "Matsaca,"  chief  of  the  Bamalette,  visited  me  with  a 
retinue  :  he  brought  a  kaross  for  me,  for  which  I  was  to  cut  him  on  the 
arm  and  shoulder  and  anoint  him  with  medicine  to  make  him  shoot  well 
with  the  gun  which  he  had  bought  of  me.  In  the  evening  I  walked  a 
short  distance  down  the  river's  bank,  and  shot  a  lovely  fawn  of  the  sero- 
lomootlooque,  and  a  buck  pallah  with  a  very  handsome  head. 

On  the  Ji  7th  I  went  in  quest  of  elephants,  accompanied  by  the  Bama- 
lette men.  We  continued  along  the  bank  of  the  river  for  several  miles, 
when  we  took  up  the  spoor  of  three  or  four  enormous  old  bulls.  On 
our  way  I  wounded  a  white  rhinoceros,  which  I  did  not  follow  to  secure. 
The  elephants  had  fed  very  slowly  away  from  the  river,  and  before  we 
had  followed  the  spoor  an  hour  we  were  close  upon  them.  The 
Bechuanas  chose  to  leave  the  spoor,  and  making  a  cast  to  windward 
they  started  the  elephants.  My  dogs  being  much  distressed  with  the 
sun,  and  I  not  being  aware  that  the- game  were  started,  we  at  this  very 
moment,  unfortunately,  sat  down  and  rested  for  half  an  hour,  which  of 
course  lost  me  the  day.  When  I  discovered  that  the  elephants  had 
moved  off,  I  turned  my  face  for  camp,  and  before  proceeding  far  I 
started  an  ostrich  off  her  nest ;  the  nest  contained  twenty  eggs,  which  I 
directed  the  Bechuanas  to  bring  to  camp. 

As  we  held  up  the  side  of  the  river  I  detected  a  very  fine  old  black 
rhinoceros  standing  among  some  wait-a-bit  thorn.  Directing  Piet,  my 
dismounted  after-rider  (for  my  stud  of  fifteen  was  now  reduced  to  one), 
to  watch  my  movements,  I  commenced  a  stalk  upon  Bo'rele,  and,  having 
got  within  about  sixty  yards  of  where  he  stood  in  dense  cover,  I  signed 
to  Piet  to  get  on  the  other  side  and  start  him  towards  me ;  this  plan 
succeeded,  for  he  was  charged  out  of  the  cover,  and,  holding  for  the  bush 
behind  which  I  was  concealed,  he  passed  within  twelve  yards.  My  first 
shot  was  a  very  deadly  one.  It  set  him  charging  round  and  round  in  a  circle, 
when  I  gave  him  a  second,  and  he  made  off  mortally  wounded.  I  then 
ran  to  my  little  mare,  and,  mounting  her,  I  gave  him  chase,  and  presently 


GREAT    VARIETY    OF    GAME.  305 

dropped  him  with  a  shot  behind  the  shoulder.  Loud  thunder  was 
rumbling  to  windward  of  my  camp,  so  I  hastened  to  cut  off  Borel6's  horn, 
after  which  I  rode  home. 

In  course  of  the  day  I  saw  the  fresh  spoor  of  about  twenty  varieties 
of  large  game,  and  most  of  the  animals  themselves,  viz.,  elephant,  black, 
white,  and  long-horned  rhinoceros,  hippopotamus,  camelopard,  buffalo, 
blue  wildebeest,  zebra,  waterbuck,  sassayby,  koodoo,  pallah,  springbok, 
serolomootlooque,  wild  boar,  duiker,  steinbok,  lion,  leopard.  This  district 
of  Africa  contains  a  larger  variety  of  game  than  any  other  in  the  whole 
of  this  tract  of  the  globe,  and  perhaps  more  than  any  other  district 
throughout  the  world ;  for  besides  the  game  which  I  have  just  noted, 
the  following  are  not  uncommon,  viz.,  keilton,  or  two-horned  black 
rhinoceros,  eland,  oryx,  roan  antelope,  sable  antelope,  hartebeest,  klip- 
springer,  and  grys  steinbuck :  the  reitbuck  is  also  to  be  found,  but  not 
abundantly. 

We  inspanned  on  the  18th  before  it  was  day,  and  trekked  up  the 
Limpopo  for  about  three  hours.  In  the  forenoon  Matsaca  arrived  from 
the  carcase  of  the  borele"  :  he  brought  with  him  a  very  fine  leopard's 
skin  kaross,  and  an  elephant's  tooth ;  these  were  for  me,  in  return  for 
which  I  was  to  cut  him  to  make  him  shoot  well.  This  I  did  in  the  follow- 
ing manner  :  opening  a  large  book  of  natural  history,  containing  prints  of 
all  the  chief  quadrupeds,  I  placed  his  forefinger  successively  on  several 
of  the  prints  of  the  commonest  of  the  South  African  quadruped,  and  as  I 
placed  his  finger  on  each  I  repeated  some  absurd  sentence  and  anointed  him 
with  turpentine.  When  this  was  accomplished  I  made  four  cuts  on  his  arm 
with  a  lancet,  and  then,  anointing  the  bleeding  wounds  with  gunpowder 
and  turpentine,  I  told  him  that  his  gun  had  power  over  each  of  the 
animals  which  his  finger  had  touched,  provided  he  held  it  straight. 
Matsaca  and  his  retinue  seemed  highly  gratified,  and  presently  took 
leave  and  departed  :  I  afterwards  trekked  up  the  river  till  sundown. 

On  the  succeeding  day  we  marched  with  the  dawn,  and  held  up  the 
river.  In  the  afternoon  Bechuanas  from  Seleka  visited  me,  bearing  a 
tooth  of  a  bull-elephant,  for  which  they  wanted  a  gun ;  the  tooth, 
however,  being  small,  I  would  not  give  them  one  for  it,  although  I  might 
have  done  so  at  a  fair  profit.  I  found  the  game  extremely  abundant, 
counting  no  less  than  twenty-two  rhinoceroses,  nine  of  which  were  in  one 
herd,  feeding  on  the  open  plain.  The  wind  was  as  foul  as  it  could  blow 
and  kept  continually  starting  the  game.  At  length,  late  in  the  after- 
noon, I  got  within  shot  of  four  white  rhinoceroses.  The  old  bull  stood 
next  to  me,  so,  resting  my  six-pound  rifle  on  the  trunk  of  a  tree  which 
an  elephant  had  over-thrown,  I  took  him  on  the  shoulder  and  smashed 
his  forearm;  he  ran  for  thirty  yards,  and  then  rolled  over  on  his  back. 
He  however  regained  his  legs  and  ran  a  hundred  yards  farther,  when 
his  leg  failed  him,  and  coming  up  on  his  spoor  I  finished  him  in  a  few 
minutes.  The  waggons  now  came  up,  and  I  halted  them  on  the  river's 
bank,  opposite  to  the  rhinoceros. 

On  the  21st  much  rain  fell  throughout  the  day,  rendering  the  country 
unfit  for  trekking.  A  birth  and  a  death  occurred  among  my  cattle.  In 
the  afternoon  a  loud  rushing  noise  was  heard  coming  on  like  a  hurricane  : 


306    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


this  was  a  large  troop  of  pallah  pursued  by  a  pack  of  about  twenty  wild 
dogs ;  they  passed  our  camp  in  fine  style  within  a  hundred  yards  of  us, 
and  in  two  minutes  the  wild  dogs  had  caught  two  of  the  pallahs,  which 
my  Bechuanas  ran  up  and  secured.  A  pallah  in  passing  my  camp 
cleared  a  distance  of  fifty  feet  in  two  successive  bounds,  and  this  on 
unfavourable  ground,  it  being  soft  and  slippery. 

I  left  the  sable  antelopes'  mountain  mainly  in  consequence  of  a  general 
falling  off  amongst  my  cattle.  I  did  not  then  know  to  what  cause  to 
attribute  this  sad  and  to  me  all-important  change  in  their  condition, 
which  only  a  few  weeks  before  had  been  a  source  of  admiration  to  us. 
Alas  !  it  was  now  too  evident  that  nearly  all  of  them  were  dying,  having 
been  bitten  by  the  fly  "  tsetse  "  at  the  mountain.  The  rains  of  the  last 
three  days  had  made  this  melancholy  truth  more  strongly  manifest ; 
the  cattle  presented  a  most  woful  appearance.  Listless  and  powerless, 
they  cared  not  to  feed,  and,  though  the  grass  covered  the  country  with 
the  richest  and  most  luxuriant  pasturage,  their  sides  remained  hollow, 
and  their  whole  bodies  became  daily  more  emaciated ;  the  eyes  also  of 
many  of  them  were  closed  and  swollen. 

The  next  morning  being  fair,  I  inspanned,  although  the  country  was 
very  unfit  for  trekking ;  my  heavily  laden  waggons  sinking  deep  in  the 
soft  rich  soil  which  lies  along  the  banks  of  the  Limpopo;  My  poor  oxen, 
as  expected,  became  knocked  up  on  the  march  before  they  had  pro- 
ceeded three  miles,  and  many  of  them  lying  down  and  refusing  to  proceed 
farther,  or  even  to  stand  up.  I  was  obliged  in  consequence  to  outspan 
one  waggon  and  leave  it  behind,  and  to  bring  on  the  other  waggon  with 
the  able  oxen,  and  then  send  them  back  to  assist  their  dying  comrades 
in  bringing  up  the  second.  I  performed  a  short  march,  and  halted  on  a 
fine  sandy  spot,  where  I  made  a  strong  thorn  kraal  for  the  cattle.  Soon 
after  we  had  outspanned  the  second  waggon  heavy  rain  set  in,  which 
Continued  at  intervals  throughout  the  night. 

Light  rains  continued  to  fall  throughout  the  24th.  I,  however,  per- 
formed a  short  march,  and  brought  my  waggons  a  few  miles  further  up 
the  Limpopo.  I  was  obliged,  as  on  the  last  march,  to  bring  on  one 
waggon  at  a  time. 

Heavy  rains  fell  at  intervals  throughout  the  next  day.  "  Ronoberg," 
a  Natal  ox,  died  during  the  night,  and  it  was  evident  that  many  more 
would  die  in  a  few  days ;  even  now  the  half  of  them  were  utterly  unfit 
to  work.  The  heavy  and  continued  rains  which  had  lately  set  in  made 
me  feel  my  heavy  misfortune  with  increased  severity,  for  the  country 
was  hardly  to  be  travelled  with  such  loads  as  mine,  even  with  oxen  in 
good  working  condition.  At  length  I  found  myself  reduced  to  a  stand, 
or  the  next  thing  to  it.  In  this  state  of  things  I  deemed  it  necessary  to 
despatch  natives  to  the  nearest  missionary  station  for  assistance.  I 
accordingly  wrote  a  letter  to  Mr.  Livingstone,  the  resident  missionary 
at  Sichely's,  requesting  the  loan  of  two  spans  of  oxen,  and,  having  sealed 
up  my  epistle  in  a  bottle,  I  sent  it  off  with  two  natives,*instructing  them 
to  use  all  possible  speed.  One  of  these  men  was  a  native  in  my  service, 
named  "  Ramachumey ; "  the  other  was  one  of  Sichely's  subjects,  having 


FISHING    IN    THE    LIMPOPO.  307 

been  on  a  visit  to  Seleka.     They  expected  to  reach  Sichely  in  seven 
days. 

For  many  succeeding  days  my  difficulties  with  respect  to  bringing  on 
the  waggons  continued  to  increase.  The  rain  still  poured  down,  ren- 
dering the  country  impossible  to  travel,  and  my  oxen  died  daily  of  the 
tsetse-bite.  In  this  condition  my  progress  was  slow  and  painful  in  the 
extreme,  and  I  awaited  anxiously  the  expected  succour  from  Mr. 
Livingstone.  At  length  I  came  fairly  to  a  stand,  not  having  sufficient 
oxen  left  to  draw  one  waggon.  I  formed  my  camp  in  a  shady  bend  of 
the  river,  and  fortified  it  with  a  high  hedge  of  thorny  trees,  and  in  a 
few  days  more  all  my  cattle  had  died  with  the  exception  of  two  young 
oxen,  which  I  inclined  to  think  would  survive  the  bite  of  the  fatal  "tsetse." 

On  the  7th  of  December  I  resolved  to  have  some  fishing ;  accordingly 
I  routed  out  some  old  salmon-fishing  tackle,  and  sallied  forth  with  one 
of  the  waggon  whip-sticks  for  a  rod,  and  some  string  for  a  line.  I 
baited  my  hook  with  a  bit  of  blue  wildebeest,  and  put  on  a  cork  for  a 
bob.  I  cast  in  my  bait  in  a  quiet  bend  of  the  river,  and  anxiously 
watched  the  cork,  which  very  soon  began  to  bob.  I  then  conjured  up 
many  forms  in  my  mind,  and  wondered  whether  it  would  be  a  fair  fish, 
such  as  I  might  expect  in  my  own  land's  rivers,  or  something  more  like 
a  young  crocodile.  I  was  not  fated  to  live  long  upon  conjecture  how- 
ever, for  next  moment  under  went  the  cork,  and  striking  sharply  I 
threw  over  my  head  a  fine  grey  fish  about  a  pound  weight,  and  in 
appearance  like  a  haddock,  with  a  broad  mouth  and  eight  or  ten  feelers. 
My  Bushman  said  the  Boers  about  the  Orange  Kiver  knew  this  fish,  and 
loved  to  catch  and  eat  it.  Presently  my  perseverance  was  rewarded  by 
a  second  fish  of  the  same  kind  as  the  first ;  and  after  this  I  hooked  a 
very  heavy  fish,  which  I  lost.  I  doubt  not  but  most  excellent  sport 
might  be  obtained  in  the  Limpopo. 

In  the  evening  Carey  and  I  cut  down  a  very  dense  thorn-tree  to 
inspect  the  nest  of  a  secretary.  The  summit  of  the  tree  was  very  wide, 
dense,  and  level,  and  from  the  terrible  nature  of  the  thorns  it  was 
utterly  inaccessible  without  the  aid  of  the  hatchet.  When  the  tree  fell, 
out  from  its  nest  rolled  a  young  secretary,  and  immediately  disgorged 
its  last  meal,  which  consisted  of  "  four  lizards  of  different  sorts  (of 
which  one  was  a  cameleon),  one  locust,  one  quail,  and  a  mouse." 

A  few  days  after  this  I  sent  out  John  and  Carey  into  different  airts 
to  seek  game,  and  each  killed  a  pallah ;  but  the  sky  threatening  rain 
they  did  not  wait  to  escort  their  venison,  but  left  natives  to  bring  it  on. 
A  considerable  time  having  elapsed,  and  the  Bakalahari  not  appearing, 
I  despatched  John  and  some  of  the  natives  in  my  service  to  look  after 
them,  and  it  was  well  I  did  so ;  for  on  reaching  his  pallah  John  found 
the  Bakalahari  whom  he  had  left  to  convey  it  to  camp,  in  the  act  of 
bolting  with  the  half  of  it,  having  cunningly  (as  he  thought)  hacked  the 
other  half  with  a  sharp  stone,  and  dirtied  the  flesh  with  the  entrails, 
thinking  to  persuade  us  that  it  had  been  done  by  a  leopard  or  hyaena. 

It  was  now  twenty  days  since  I  despatched  natives  to  the  nearest 
missionary  to  inform  him  of  my  distress,  and  solicit  assistance  in  oxen, 
and  they  might  ere  now  have  reached  me,  if  all  was  well ;  this  caused 


308  HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

me  many  painful  doubts  and  apprehensions.  Day  after  day  was  passing 
away,  and  hourly  I  felt  my  situation  more  and  more  irksome  and 
tedious.  Moreover,  my  supplies  were  fast  coming  to  an  end.  I  cer- 
tainly felt  my  fixed  position  most  painful.  At  length,  however,  that 
aid  which  I  so  earnestly  yet  fearfully  prayed  for  was  at  hand. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16  th,  as  I  was  preparing  my  breakfast,  I  sud- 
denly beheld  a  civilized-looking  native  approach  me ;  he  wore  a  shirt,  a 
pair  of  leather  trousers,  and  a  sailor's  red  nightcap,  and  carried  a  gun 
and  shooting-belt.  The  instant  I  beheld  him  I  said  aloud,  "  Natives 
from  Sichely — the  oxen  are  at  hand."  It  was  even  so  :  my  messengers 
had  found  Mr.  Livingstone  at  home,  who,  on  hearing  of  my  distress, 
had  at  once  in  the  noblest  manner  despatched  men  with  his  whole  stock 
of  trek-oxen  to  my  assistance.  These  I  had  now  the  inexpressible  satis- 
faction to  behold  reach  me  in  safety.  We  inspanned  at  once,  and  com- 
menced our  march,  and  continued  to  make  good  way  for  several  days ; 
and  on  the  26th  we  reached  Kolubeng,  the  new  residence  of  Sichely. 
In  the  morning  that  chief  brought  me  two  young  oxen,  which  I  all  but 
purchased  for  an  old  saddle  and  two  pounds  of  powder ;  but  we  split 
upon  the  cup  of  powder  being  level  and  not  piled. 

A  day  or  two  after  I  ascended  the  rocky  hill  above  the  town  with 
Mr.  Livingstone,  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  I  came 
upon  a  very  high  heap  of  well-bleached  mouldering  bones  of  many 
varieties  of  game,  amassed  and  piled  here  by  a  mighty  Nimrod,  now  no 
more,  who  had  in  days  of  yore  chosen  this  hill  for  his  habitation.  Mr. 
Livingstone  pointed  out  to  me  a  range  of  tabular  hills  to  the  south-east, 
near  the  sources  of  the  Kolubeng,  throughout  which  he  informed  me 
the  sable  antelope  was  to  be  met  with.  In  the  evening  Sichely  came 
to  trade  with  me,  when  I  obtained  several  young  oxen  in  barter  from 
him. 

On  arriving  at  Sichely's  I  despatched  natives  to  Bakatla,  to  fetch  two 
spans  of  oxen  which  I  had  left  on  my  way  into  the  interior  in  charge  of 
Mr.  Edwards,  and  with  these  on  the  3rd  of  the  new  year,  we  again 
inspanned  and  tried  to  make  a  start  with  twelve  oxen  in  each  waggon : 
they,  however,  finding  the  waggons  extremely  heavy,  would  not  move 
then!,  nor  could  we  prevail  upon  them  to  take  to  their  wonted  work,  as 
they  ought  to  do,  until  every  ox  had  been  most  unmercifully  flogged 
with  both  waggon-whips  and  jamboks.  Our  course  for  Bakatla  was 
south-westerly,  but  owing  to  the  position  of  the  mountains  we  were 
obliged  to  make  a  very  zigzag  and  circuitous  march.  We  halted  at 
sundown.  The  country  here  is  the  most  pleasing  I  have  seen  in  Africa — 
beautifully  wooded,  undulating  plains,  valleys,  straths,  and  conical  and 
tabular  mountains  of  most  fascinating  appearance,  invariably  wooded  to 
their  summits,  stretching  away  on  every  side. 

We  marched  .steadily  for  several  days,  and  on  the  7th  reached  Bakatla, 
which  was  looking  extremely  beautiful,  being  surrounded  by  very  green 
fields  of  Bechuana  corn.  Here  we  remained  a  few  days  whilst  I  obtained 
fresh  oxen,  and  then  pushing  on  we  gained  the  river  Molopo.  Early  on 
the  4th  I  drew  up  my  waggons  on  its  northern  bank,  and  in  the  fore- 
noon I  sallied  forth  to  seek  for  reitbuck,  which  are  here  abundant.     At 


ADVENTURE    WITH    A    LIONESS  309 

this  hour  of  the  day,  however,  it  was  of  little  use  to  seek  for  them,  as 
they  were  lying  concealed  in  the  endless  dense  reeds  which  enclose  the 
Molopo,  in  some  parts  extending  to  a  breadth  of  half  a  mile ;  their 
height  averaging  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  and  upwards.  I  found 
plenty  of  spoor,  including  the  fresh  spoor  of  lions,  which  along  the 
Molopo  are  always  abundant.  The  day  was  excessively  hot,  and  there 
was  a  most  painful  oppressive  feeling  in  the  atmosphere  to  an  extent 
which  I  had  rarely  experienced.  In  the  afternoon  dark  masses  of  clouds 
arose  along  the  horizon  on  every  side,  and  constant  thunder  bellowed  in 
the  distance  :  a  little  before  the  sun  went  down  the  sky  above  and  all 
around  looked  extremely  threatening,  and  I  directed  my  people  to  pre- 
pare for  a  tempestuous  night. 

At  this  time  I  observed  a  reitbuck  grazing  beyond  the  dense  reeds  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Molopo,  and  I  at  once  held  for  him,  with  my  little 
Moore  rifle,  accompanied  by  my  Bushman.  We  had  some  difficulty  in 
penetrating  the  dense  reeds,  and  on  gaining  the  other  side  a  change  in 
the  direction  of  the  wind  started  off  the  reitbuck ;  I  then  observed  two 
other  reitbuck,  a  buck  and  a  doe,  coming  out  to  graze  some  distance  to 
windward,  and  commenced  a  stalk  in  upon  them.  Having  proceeded 
about  half-way  I  suddenly  observed  two  huge  yellow  lionesses,  about  a 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  to  my  left,  walking  along  the  edge  of  the  reeds, 
holding  a  course  parallel  to  my  own.  The  reitbucks  smelt  the  lions  and 
lay  down.  I  got  very  near  them,  but  they  started  off",  and  bounded 
straight  away  from  me  :  I  fired  and  missed  the  buck. 

Ruyter  came  towards  me,  and  I  ran  forward  to  obtain  a  view  beyond 
a  slight  rise  in  the  ground  to  see  whether  the  lionesses  had  gone.  In 
so  doing  I  came  suddenly  upon  them,  within  about  seventy  yards ;  they 
were  standing  looking  back  at  E-uyter.  I  then  very  rashly  commenced 
making  a  rapid  stalk  in  upon  them,  and  fired  at  the  nearest,  having  only 
one  shot  in  my  rifle.  The  ball  told  loudly,  and  the  lioness  at  which  I 
had  fired  wheeled  right  round,  and  came  on  lashing  her  tail,  showing 
her  teeth,  and  making  that  horrid  murderous  deep  growl  which  an  angry 
lion  generally  utters.  At  the  same  moment  her  comrade,  who  seemed 
better  to  know  that  she  was  in  the  presence  of  man,  made  a  hasty 
retreat  into  the  reeds.  The  instant  the  lioness  came  on  I  stood  up  to 
my  full  height,  holding  my  rifle,  and  my  arms  extended,  and  high  above 
my  head.  This  checked  her  in  her  course,  but  on  looking  round  and 
missing  her  comrade,  and  observing  Euyter  slowly  advancing,  she  was 
still  more  exasperated,  and,  fancying  that  she  was  being  surrounded,  she 
made  another  forward  movement,  growling  terribly.  This  was  a  moment 
of  great  danger.  I  felt  that  my  only  chance  of  safety  was  extreme 
steadiness,  so,  standing  motionless  as  a  rock,  with  my  eyes  firmly  fixed 
upon  her,  I  called  out  in  a  clear  commanding  voice,  "Holloa  !  old  girl, 
what's  the  hurry  ?  take  it  easy ;  holloa  !  holloa  !  "  She  instantly  once 
more  halted,  and  seemed  perplexed,  looking  round  for  her  comrade.  I 
then  thought  it  prudent  to  beat  a  retreat,  which  I  very  slowly  did, 
talking  to  the  lioness  all  the  time.  She  seemed  undecided  as  to  her 
future  movements,  and  was  gazing  after  me  and  snuffing  the  ground 
when  I  last  beheld  her. 


310  HUNTING  AND   SPOETING  ADVENTUEES. 

The  sun  was  under,  and  terrific  thunder  which  burst  around  pro- 
claimed a  coming  tempest :  I  therefore  deemed  it  safe  to  reach  my  camp 
with  all  possible  speed,  and,  having  loaded  my  rifle,  we  held  thither  at 
a  sharp  trot,  holding  for  the  old  waggon-drift  to  avoid  having  to  pass 
through  the  dense  reeds.  Before  I  reached  the  drift  two  reitbuck  dashed 
past  me,  one  of  which  I  shot  and  bore  to  camp.  On  reaching  camp  the 
first  move  was  to  refresh  the  person.  Before  however  I  could  accom- 
plish this  the  tempest  was  upon  us ;  it  was  one  of  the  most  violent  I 
had  experienced  for  years,  the  wind  blowing  a  perfect  hurricane,  accom- 
panied by  rattling  hailstones  and  rain,  which  fell  in  such  torrents  as  in 
a  few  minutes  to  convert  the  dry  ground  into  a  befitting  habitation  for 
fish  or  water-fowl :  the  thunder  and  lightning  were  most  appalling,  and 
burst  and  flashed  above  and  around  us,  threatening  our  momentary 
destruction. 

The  wind  blew  one  side  of  my  sail  over  the  roof  of  the  tent,  the  sail's 
fastenings  having  been  insecure,  leaving  myself  and  my  property  ex- 
posed to  the  pelting  rain,  which  in  a  few  seconds  had  deluged  bedding, 
blankets,  pillows,  rifles,  sacks,  leopard-skins,  karosses,  stuffed  heads,  etc., 
etc.  I  however  quickly  piped  all  hands  to  bend  on  another  sail  which  I 
fortunately  had  in  the  waggon,  and  when  this  was  accomplished  my  castle 
was  once  more  waterproof.  The  violence  of  the  wind  had  set  my  oxen 
at  liberty,  and  when  the  tempest  had  passed  away  they  were  found  to 
have  passed  away  with  it,  which  it  may  be  supposed  left  me  in  no  very 
placid  temper,  this  being  exactly  the  sort  of  night  on  which  the  stealthy 
prowling  tyrant  of  the  wilderness  is  ever  found  to  be  most  active  in  his 
murderous  pursuits ;  and,  as  if  to  add  to  my  anxiety  on  the  subject, 
lions  immediately  commenced  roaring  on  every  side,  especially  to  lee- 
ward, being  the  course  which  cattle  invariably  take  before  a  storm. 

When  day  dawned  men  were  despatched  on  the  spoor  of  the  oxen.  I 
was  busy  all  the  forenoon  drying  my  saturated  property.  The  sun  was 
high,  and  yet  no  tidings  of  my  cattle.  I  began  to  be  extremely  anxious. 
About  midday  some  of  the  Bakatla  Bechuanas  brought  me  one  ox ;  it 
was  "  Youngman,"  the  last  of  the  Mohicans.  On  beholding  him  a  pang 
of  sorrow  shot  through  my  heart.  He  brought  my  melancholy  losses 
all  fresh  as  at  a  single  glance  before  me ;  his  appearance  was  worn  and 
emaciated,  and  it  was  evident  that  soon  the  vulture  and  hyaena  would 
leave  his  whitening  bones  to  bleach  upon  the  glowing  plain. 

Who  then  was  "Youngman"  that  he  could  call  up  such  melancholy 
associations?  "Youngman"  was  the  only  dying  survivor  of  thirty 
selected  trek-oxen  which  I  had  chosen  to  accompany  me  into  the  far 
interior,  all  of  which  I  had  seen  pine  away  and  die,  and  fail  me  in  the 
hour  of  need.  The  men  who  brought  me  "Youngman"  said  that  they 
had  found  him  on  the  spoor  of  the  other  cattle,  and  about  two  hours 
afterwards  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  behold  all  the  missing  truants 
recovered.  They  had  been  seduced  away  by  some  young  oxen  I  had 
obtained  at  Bakatla,  which  seemed  to  have  resolved  to  return  to  their 
former  masters,  perhaps  not  relishing  old  Adonis's  treatment  of  them  in 
the  yoke. 

We  now  held  on  to  the  Meritsane  (rendered  famous  among  sportsmen 


LARGE    HORNED    OXEN.  311 

by  Harris's  glowing  description  of  its  charms),  and  found  it  full  -of 
water.  Before  reaching  this  point,  however,  I  left  the  old-established 
Kuruman  waggon-road  about  three  miles  from  the  drift,  my  line  of 
march  being  .to  visit  Mahura,  chief  of  the  Batlapis,  residing  about  the 
sources  of  the  Hart  River.  This  route  is  by  many  days  shorter  than 
by  the  old  road,  and  has  also  the  advantage  of  being  through  a  firm 
grassy  country.  As  we  reached  the  Meritsane  we  started  a  cock  and 
hen  ostrich,  with  a  large  troop  of  extremely  small  young  ones,  which 
did  not  seem  larger  than  guinea-fowls. 

We  held  on  for  several  days  through  a  country  abounding  in  game, 
and  reached  Mahura's  town  on  the  25th.  As  we  drew  near  to  the  town, 
Mahura  was  pointed  out  to  me.  He  was  walking  in  company  with 
another  old  man,  and  carried  a  double-barrelled  percussion  rifle  on  his 
shoulder.  He  was  dressed  in  a  shirt,  waistcoat,  and  baggy  trousers,  and 
wore  a  broad-rimmed  hat  a  la  Boer.  Halting  my  waggons,  I  went  up 
and  shook  hands  with  him,  and  asked  his  permission  to  outspan,  which 
was  graciously  granted.  Mahura  and  his  aristocracy  remained  with  us 
all  the  evening  drinking  my  coffee,  and  fishing  or  pumping  out  all  the 
news  he  could  from  me  and  my  natives ;  and  at  a  late  hour  this  ill- 
expressioned  cunning  old  tyrant  took  leave  for  the  night,  requesting 
that  I  would  inspan  in  the  morning,  and  bring  up  my  waggons  close  to 
his  dwelling-house,  that  he  might  enjoy  as  much  of  my  society  as  pos- 
sible during  my  stay  at  his  town,  and  that  we  might  trade  with  more 
facility. 

Accordingly,  in  the  morning  I  drove  up  my  waggons,  and  very  soon 
his  highness  made  his  appearance,  and  requested  me  to  get  ready  some 
coffee.  Presently  about  a  dozen  fine  young  oxen  were  brought  up, 
which  he  said  were  to  purchase  powder,  and  after  coffee  we  proceeded 
to  trading.  I  selected  one  young  ox,  and  offered  him  six  pounds  of 
powder  for  it.  He  then  desired  to  see  the  powder,  and  on  my 
measuring  it  out  he  said  that  I  must  add  two  more.  From  his  manner 
it  appeared  to  me  that  he  did  not  intend  to  deal  with  me  even  if  I  gave 
him  what  he  asked ;  so  I  said  I  would  let  him  have  one  pound  more, 
and  if  he  did  not  like  to  take  it  we  could  not  deal.  He  then,  with  the 
greatest  nonchalence,  said,  "Lay  by  your  powder,"  and  commenced 
talking  on  some  other  subject.  Being  very  anxious  to  obtain  some 
good  specimens  of  the  large-horned  oxen  of  the  Kalihari,  and  Mahura 
being  by  report  in  possession  of  some,  which  he  had  lifted  from  the 
Bawangketse,  I  told  him  that  if  he  would  bring  them  up  I  would  give 
him  a  good  price  for  them.  He  said  that  he  had  cattle  with  large  horns, 
and  that  he  would  send  to  one  of  his  outposts  for  two  oxen  which  would 
frighten  me  to  look  at. 

In  the  evening  the  cattle  came ;  these  were  two  immensely  tall,  gaunt, 
hollow-sided,  very  remarkable-looking  animals,  and  carried  truly  enor- 
mous horns.  The  head  of  one  of  them  was  very  handsome ;  the  horns 
were  very  wide  and  fair  set,  going  out  quite  horizontally  for  some  dis- 
tance on  leaving  the  head  :  their  width,  from  point  to  point,  might  have 
been  about  eight  feet.  This  ox  was  roan-coloured  on  his  face  and  along 
the  top  of  his  back.     The  other  was  red ;  his  horns  were  thicker  than 


312     HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

those  of  his  comrade,  and  were  of  good  length,  with  very  good  points, 
but  their  sweep  was  not  graceful.  They  were  neither  of  them  so  thick 
as  the  horns  of  my  red  Wangketse  ox,  Rob  Roy,  which  I  left  with 
Eossey,  nor  by  any  means  so  handsome ;  yet,  nevertheless,  they  were 
both  very  remarkable  heads,  and  perhaps  such  another  pair  I  might 
never  again  fall  in  with.  I  told  Mahura  that  I  possessed  finer  specimens, 
but  I  should  be  happy  to  have  a  deal  with  him.  He  then  showed  me 
two  fine  bull-elephant  tusks,  for  which  I  offered  him  cash ;  but  he  said 
he  had  no  understanding  in  cash,  and  that  he  would  keep  them  until  he 
saw  something  he  stood  in  need  of.  His  drift  was  to  get  one  of  my 
valuable  double  rifles  out  of  me. 

Next  day  Mahura  brought  me  the  two  large-horned  Kalihari  oxen,  and 
after  coffee  he  asked  me  if  I  was  going  to  buy.  I  asked  him  what  he 
wanted  for  the  oxen,  when  he  said  powder.  I  said  that  I  would  take 
them  both,  and  give  him  eight  pounds  of  powder  for  each.  On  hearing 
my  offer  he  only  laughed,  and,  turning  round,  ordered  his  herds  to  drive 
the  cattle  back  to  the  post.  I  asked  him  what  he  wanted  for  them : 
this  he  would  not  state,  but  remarked,  "  You  were  wont  to  ride  by  the 
Motito  road.  They  may  well  now  say,  'Alas  !  we  have  lost  that  good 
trader ;  now  may  Mahura  rejoice  that  that  good  man  has  gone  to  trade 
with  him.' "  The  meaning  of  this  speech  was,  that  Mochuara,  the  chief 
at  Motito,  had  presented  me  with  an  ox  carrying  very  large  horns,  and 
that  in  return  I  had  given  him  a  gun.  I  now  considered  that  I  had 
already  been  too  long  with  this' ruffian,  and  I  accordingly  called  for  my 
oxen  and  marched  for  the  Yaal  River,  distant  a  day  and  a  half.  We 
held  on  until  sundown,  having  halted  for  an  hour  at  mid-day. 

We  resumed  our  march  at  daybreak  on  the  28th,  and  held  on  through 
boundless  open  plains.  As  we  advanced,  game  became  more  and  more 
abundant.  In  about  two  hours  we  reached  a  fine  fountain,  beside 
which  was  a  small  cover  of  trees  and  bushes,  which  afforded  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  firewood.  Here  we  outspanned  for  breakfast ;  it  was  a 
fine  cool  morning,  with  a  pleasant  breeze.  The  country  was  thickly 
covered  with  immense  herds  of  game,  consisting  of  zebra,  wildebeest, 
blesbok,  and  springbok.  There  could  not  have  been  less  than  five  or  six 
thousand  head  of  game  in  sight  of  me  as  I  sat  at  breakfast.  Presently 
the  whole  of  this  game  began  to  take  alarm.  Herd  joined  herd,  and 
took  away  up  the  wind ;  and  in  a  few  minutes  other  vast  herds  came 
pouring  on  up  wind,  covering  the  whole  breadth  of  the  plain  with  a 
living  mass  of  noble  game. 

Bakalahari  now  hove  in  sight,  running  at  intervals  across  the  plain, 
bearing  parasols  of  black  oatrich-feathers,  which  they  brandished  on 
high,  to  press  on  the  panic-stricken  herds.  These  fellows  must  have 
had  good  wind,  for  they  held  on  at  a  steady  trot,  exactly  like  wild  dogs 
(only  that  the  wild  dogs  gallop  and  do  not  trot),  and  did  not  allow  the 
game  to  get  very  far  in  advance.  It  was  evident  that  they  were  driving 
it  to  a  range  of  pitfalls  in  advance ;  but  being  without  steeds,  and  in 
extreme  pain  from  a  swelled  ankle,  I  was  unable  to  follow  them  up  and 
ascertain  their  success  as  I  wished  to  have  done.  My  ankle  became 
daily  worse.      I  applied  leeches  to  it  at  Mahura's,  which  helped  me  a 


CHAE  XXXI. 


ANOTHER  ELEPHANT  EXPEDITION.        313 


little,  but  the  number  was  too  small  to  be  of  a  great  benefit.  I  was 
now  entirely  unable  to  set  my  foot  to  the  ground.  Carey  thought  it  was 
erysipelas,  and  I  was  very  apprehensive  that  it  would  end  in  something 
extremely  serious. 

On  the  29th  we  again  set  out,  and  in  about  three  hours  we  reached 
the  fair,  long-wished  for,  yet  much  dreaded,  Vaal  Eiver.  I  say  much- 
dreaded,  because,  from  the  constant  rains  which  had  been  continually 
falling  this  season,  I  had  made  up  my  mind  that  it  was  not  improbable 
I  might  have  to  lie  for  many  months  upon  the  banks  of  this  often  im- 
passable river.  On  this  occasion,  however,  to  my  great  satisfaction,  and 
quite  contrary  to  my  expectations,  I  found  the  river  low,  and  the  drift, 
which  I  had  never  seen  before,  very  good,  and  free  from  rocks  or  very 
large  stones.  The  descent  from  our  side  was  easy,  but  the  ascent  from 
the  drift  on  the  opposite  side  was  steep  and  muddy ;  and  some  smart 
showers  of  rain,  which  had  been  falling  during  the  last  two  hours,  had 
rendered  it  so  slippery  that  I  deemed  it  best  to  outspan,  and  defer  taking 
the  drift  until  the  ground  should  dry  a  little  in  the  afternoon,  when  I 
got  my  waggons  through  in  safety,  taking  one  at  a  time  with  twenty 
steady  oxen. 

We  now  made  the  Yet  Eiver,  which  flows  into  the  Vaal  a  little  above 
the  drift,  and  followed  its  course  towards  Oolesberg.  This  we  found  to 
be  an  excellent  road,  but  inclining  too  far  to  the  east.  Our  march  led 
us  through  vast  herds  of  game,  which  I  have  before  spoken  of  as  fre- 
quenting the  northern  boundaries  of  the  colony.  On  the  20th  of 
February  I  crossed  the  Great  Orange  Eiver  at  Alleman's  Drift,  and  entered 
Colesberg  next  day.  I  found  most  of  my  old  friends  still  here,  and  also 
my  redoubtable  friend  old  Murphy,  as  wild  and  as  jolly  as  ever. 

I  hired  the  old  barracks  for  my  residence  during  my  stay  in  Colesberg, 
and  immediately  set  about  sewing  up  my  trophies  in  canvas,  and  stowing 
them  away  in  cases.  This  was  accomplished  in  about  fourteen  days.  A 
fortnight  more  was  spent  in  preparing  for  another  hunting  expedition.  I 
purchased  a  new  waggon  from  a  Mr.  Emslie  for  a  hundred  pounds,  and 
a  fresh  stud  of  sixteen  horses,  a  mule,  and  a  span  of  oxen  from  various 
parties  in  town,  and  subsequently  I  increased  my  stud  to  twenty. 


CHAPTEE  XXXI. 


Start  on  my  fifth  and  last  Expedition  into  the  Interior — Mr,  Orpen  accompanies 
me — Hurried  March — Extraordinary  Herd  of  Blesboks — The  Hart  River — 
Cattle  attacked  with  Hoof  Sickness — Three  Lionesses  fearfully  mangle  my 
pack  of  Dogs — Lion-hunts — Hyaenas  devour  my  Camp-stools — Meritsane — Six 
Buffaloes  shot — Another  Lion-hunt — Glorious  Chase  with  Elands — Sichely's 
Kraal — We  cross  the  Limpopo — A  Lion  attacks  my  Kraal  and  kills  an  Ox — A 
Field  of  Battle — Seboono — My  hundredth  Elephant ! — We  march  down  the 
Limpopo  and  hunt  Hippopotami — Attacked  by  Rheumatic  Fever — Mr.  Orpen 
nearly  killed  by  a  Leopard. 

On  the  19th  of  March,  1848, 1  left  Colesberg  with  three  waggons  "  well 
manned  and  stored,"  for  my  fifth  and  last  cruise  in  the  far  interior.     I 


314     HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

was  joined  by  a  Mr.  Orpen  (a  mighty  Nimrod),  who,  notwithstanding 
my  representing  to  him  the  dangers  and  hardships  of  an  elephant- 
hunting  expedition  in  their  blackest  colours,  kindly  agreed  to  favour  me 
with  his  help  and  company  on  my  lonely  trip.  My  sojourn  in  Coles- 
berg  reduced  me  considerably,  and  I  was  glad  once  more  to  breathe  the 
fresh  air  of  the  country.  We  got  clear  of  Colesberg  at  about  nine  A.M., 
and  commenced  our  march  over  the  country  I  had  so  often  marked  with 
my  wheel-tracks,  and  which  my  reader  must  now  be  fully  acquainted 
with.  On  my  way  I  completely  recruited  my  oxen  and  stud,  and  pre- 
pared myself  to  take  the  field  with  an  immense  pack  of  stout  serviceable 
dogs.     I  also  engaged  as  after-rider  a  Bushman  named  Booi. 

The  game  became  plentiful  in  about  ten  days  after  we  left  Colesberg, 
but  when  we  came  to  the  Yet  Eiver  I  beheld  with  astonishment  and 
delight  decidedly  one  of  the  most  wonderful  displays  which  I  had  wit- 
nessed during  my  varied  sporting  career  in  Southern  Africa.  On  my 
right  and  left  the  plain  exhibited  one  purple  mass  of  graceful  blesboks, 
which  extended  without  a  break  as  far  as  my  eyes  could  strain :  the 
depth  of  their  vast  legions  covered  a  breadth  of  about  six  hundred 
yards.  On  pressing  upon  them,  they  cantered  along  before  me,  not 
exhibiting  much  alarm,  taking  care,  however,  not  to  allow  me  to  ride 
within  at  least  four  hundred  yards  of  them.  On,  on  I  rode  intensely 
excited  with  the  wondrous  scene  before  me,  and  hoped  at  length  to 
get  to  windward  of  at  least  some  portion  of  the  endless  living  mass 
which  darkened  the  plain,  but  in  vain.  Like  squadrons  of  dragoons,  the 
entire  breadth  of  this  countless  herd  held  on  their  forward  course  as  if 
aware  of  my  intention,  and  resolved  not  to  allow  me  to  weather  them. 

At  length  I  determined  to  play  upon  their  ranks,  and,  pressing  my 
horse  to  his  utmost  speed,.  I  dashed  forward,  and,  suddenly  halting, 
sprang  from  the  saddle,  and,  giving  my  rifle  at  least  two  feet  of  eleva- 
tion, fired  right  and  left  into  one  of  their  darkest  masses.  A  noble  buck 
dropped  to  the  right  barrel,  and  the  second  shot  'told  loudly ;  no  buck, 
however,  fell,  and  after  lying  half  a  minute  the  prostrate  blesbok  rose, 
and  was  quickly  lost  sight  of  among  his  retreating  comrades.  In  half  a 
minute  I  was  again  loaded,  and  after  galloping  a  few  hundred  yards  let 
drive  into  them,  but  still  was  unsuccessful.  Excited,  and  annoyed  at 
my  want  of  luck,  I  resolved  to  follow  them  up,  and  blaze  away  while  a 
shot  remained  in  the  locker,  which  I  did  ;  until,  after  riding  about  eight 
or  nine  miles,  I  found  my  ammunition  expended,  and  not  a  single  bles- 
bok bagged,  although  at  least  a  dozen  must  have  been  wounded.  It 
was  now  high  time  to  retrace  my  steps  and  seek  my  waggons.  I  accord- 
ingly took  a  point,  and  rode  across  the  trackless  country  in  the  direction 
for  which  they  were  steering. 

I  very  soon  once  more  fell  in  with  fresh  herds  of  thousands  of  blesboks. 
As  it  was  late  in  the  day,  and  I  being  on  the  right  side  for  the  wind,  the 
blesboks  were  very  tame,  and  allowed  me  to  ride  along  within  rifle-shot 
of  them,  and  those  which  ran  charged  resolutely  past  me  up  the  wind 
in  long-continued  streams.  I  took  a  lucky  course  for  the  waggons,  and 
came  right  upon  them,  after  they  had  outspanned  on  the  bank  of  the 
Yet  Eiver.     I  could  willingly  have  devoted  a  montt  to  blesbok-shooting 


DISEASE    AMONG    THE    OXEN.  315 


in  this  hunter's  elysium,  but,  having  heard  from  a  party  of  Bastards 
that  the  Yaal  River  was  low,  and  being  extremely  anxious  to  push  on, 
I  inspanned,  and  continued  my  march  by  moonlight.  Before  proceeding 
far  we  discovered  the  deeply  imprinted  spoor  of  an  enormous  lion, 
which  had  walked  along  the  waggon-track  for  several  hundred  yards. 
We  continued  our  march  till  after  midnight,  vast  herds  of  blesbok 
charging  from  us  on  every  side.  Lions  were  heard  roaring  for  the  first 
time  during  this  night. 

On  the  22nd  of  April  after  some  trouble  we  croesed  the  Vaal  Eiver, 
and  on  the  25th  we  reached  Mahura's.  I  rode  ahead  of  the  waggons, 
and  found  the  old  ruffian  busily  engaged  with  some  of  his  nobility  in 
reducing  with  adzes  a  thornwood  tree,  which  was  to  serve  as  a  beam  in 
a  new  dwelling-house  he  was  about  to  erect.  He  was  astonished  to  see 
me  return  so  soon,  and  expressed  much  satisfaction  thereat.  I  asked 
Mahura  if  he  had  still  the  two  large-horned  oxen  which  I  had  seen  when 
last  here  ;  he  replfed  they  were  still  forthcoming.  In  half  an  hour  the 
waggons  arrived,  and  I  drew  them  up  outside  the  town.  The  chief 
shortly  afterwards  made  his  appearance,  and  had  coffee  with  us. 

For  many  days  back  our  oxen  had  been  looking  very  spare,  and  fallen 
off  in  condition,  and  one  or  two  exhibited  symptoms  of  the  tongue  sick- 
ness at  the  Vaal  River.  We  now  had  the  intense  mortification  to 
discover  that  nearly  the  whole  of  them  were  attacked  with  either  tongue 
or  hoof  sickness.  This  discovery  cast  a  sad  gloom  over  our  prospects. 
I  was  unacquainted  with  the  nature  of  either  of  these  maladies,  and  the 
Hottentots  declared  that  an  ox  required  months  to  recover  from  either 
of  them,  and  that  they  often  proved  fatal.  In  this  state  of  things  I 
deemed  it  prudent  to  begin  to  purchase  young  oxen  from  Mahuara  and 
his  tribe,  and  I  gave  him  to  understand  that  I  was  willing  to  do  so.  The 
chief  replied  that  his  people  would  be  unwilling  to  bring  their  oxen, 
because  when  I  had  last  passed  through  his  country  they  had  brought 
oxen  for  barter,  and  I  had  purchased  none  of  them ;  he  however,  prom- 
ised to  acquaint  them  with  my  wishes.  In  the  afternoon,  my  waggons 
having  outspanned  at  a  great  distance  from  the  water,  I  inspanned,  and 
trekked  down  to  the  Hart  stream,  which  I  crossed,  and  drew  up  on  its 
opposite  bank. 

Next  day  the  chief,  instead  of  coming  to  trade  as  he  had  given  me  to 
understand  he  .would,  held  a  hunting  party  with  a  number  of  his  people 
on  the  old  Scottish  principle  of  the  ring,  a  common  and  successful  mode 
of  hunting  among  the  South  African  tribes.  On  this  occasion,  however, 
the  ring  was  mismanaged,  and  the  game  broke  through.  In  the  evening 
one  large  ox  was  brought  for  barter,  but  we  did  not  agree  about  the 
price.  Our  oxen  now  presented  a  most  woful  appearance,  the  greater 
part  of  them  being  very  lame,  and  nearly  all  more  or  less  ailing.  This 
was  a  most  startling  fact,  and,  as  the  Bechuanas  did  not  seem  disposed 
to  bring  oxen  for  barter,  it  threatened  to  oppose  an  insurmountable 
barrier  to  our  progress  either  backwards  or- forwards. 

Two  hours  having  elapsed  after  breakfast  the  following  morning,  and 
the  chief  not  having  made  his  appearance  according  to  promise,  Mr. 
Orpen  and  I  went  up  to  the  palace  to  ask  him  what  were  his  intentions 


316   HUNTING  AND   SPOETING  ADVENTUBES. 

• 
in  respect  to  the  trading.    He  replied  that  he  could  not  force  his  people 

to  bring  me  oxen,  but  that  he  had  intimated  my  wishes. to  them.   I  then 

remarked  that  he  would  do  me  a  friendship  if  he  would  set  his  people 

the  example  by  first  dealing  with  me  himself,  as  I  knew  that  I  should 

then  have  no  difficulty  with  them.     The  chief,  after  some  demur,  told 

me  that  oxen  would  be  brought  for  barter,  and  requested  me  to  go  before 

him  to  the  waggons,  and  get  my  coffee-kettle  under  weigh.     In  the 

evening  I  obtained   one   good-looking   ox   from  one   of   his   men  for 

ammunition.     When  Mahura  left  I  presented  him  with  some  sugar  for 

his  coffee  and  a  whipstick. 

The  chief  again  made  his  appearance,  accompanied  by  his  interpreter 
and  several  of  his  people,  early  next  day,  bringing  stout  young  cattle  to 
barter  for  guns  and  ammunition.  Having  taken  coffee,  the  chief  called 
me  aside,  and,  pointing  out  to  me  two  good-looking  young  oxen,  said 
they  were  his,  and  that  he  wanted  powder  for  them.  I  asked  him  how 
much  he  would  require,  and  he  replied  that  he  had  brought  a  measure, 
and  that  if  I  would  fill  it  with  powder  I  could  have  the  two  oxen. 
When  I  beheld  the  wooden  measure  I  thought  the  chief  was  going  to 
drive  a  hard  bargain  with  me.  On  filling  it,  however,  with  powder,  I 
found  that  it  held  about  eighteen  pounds,  and  as  this  was  not  an 
exorbitant  price  for  two  good  oxen,  I  was  very  glad  to  get  them,  and  I 
told  the  chief  I  was  satisfied  with  his  measure.  He  and  all  his  people 
seemed  to  think  they  had  got  a  bargain,  and,  the  example  now  being 
set,  the  trading  went  on  rapidly,  and  by  sundown  I  had  purchased 
twenty-two  oxen,  twenty  of  which  were  quite  fit  for  work.  In  the  fore- 
noon Mr.  Orpen  and  I  went  to  look  at  the  cattle  (which  we  allowed  to 
remain  night  and  day  in  the  veld),  and  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  a 
decided  improvement  in  them. 

The  chief  was  in  high  spirits  all  day,  and  on  leaving  me  in  the  fore- 
noon he  said  he  would  give  me  a  fat  cow  to  kill  for  my  people,  and  tha£ 
he  would  bring  me  a  large-horned  ox  to  purchase.  In  the  evening  the 
fat  cow  was  brought  and  slain,  but  the  herds  brought  the  wrong  ox,  so 
the  chief  sent  it  back  again.  A  cousin  of  the  chief,  named  Mokalliharri, 
anxious  to  cultivate  my  good  graces,  gave  me  a  fat  wether.  We 
remained  several  days  longer  purchasing  oxen,  which,  together  with  our 
horses,  now  amounted  to  one  hundred  and  eleven,  not  counting  our  lame 
oxen,  which  we  determined  to  leave  with  Mahura. 

On  the  3rd  of  May  we  again  inspanned,  and  resumed  our  march  for. 
the  far  interior,  steering  our  course  across  the  boundless  open  plains 
which  lie  to  the  northward  of  the  Hart  Eiver.  On  the  5th,  having  per- 
formed a  considerable  march,  we  halted  about  eleven  A.M.  beside  a  small 
fountain  in  a  slightly  elevated  part  of  the  country,  where  the  grass  was 
various,  rank,  and  abundant.  The  country  to  the  west  was  not  fre- 
quented by  the  game,  and  here  the  grass  was  tall  and  rank ;  and  covers 
of  considerable  size  of  thorn-trees  and  grey-leaved  bushes  were  scattered 
over  the  landscape  ;  it  was  a  still  and  secluded  spot.  I  observed  several 
vultures  soaring  over  one  of  these  covers  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
the  waggons,  and,  thinking  it  very  probable  that  they  were  attracted  by 
some  lion  devouring  his  prey,  I  ordered  a  couple  of  horses  to  be  saddled 


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SHOOTING    A    LION.  317 


and  rode  towards  the  place,  with  one  after-rider  and  about  a  dozen  of 
my  dogs.  I  was  right  in  my  conjecture  ;  for,  as  I  cantered  along,  I  had 
the  satisfaction  to  behold  a  majestic  old  black-maned  lion  walking 
parallel  to  me,  and  within  a  hundred  yards.  He  had  not  yet  observed 
me :  he  looked  so  dark,  that  at  the  first  glance  I  mistook  him  in  the 
long  grass  for  a  blue  wildebeest ;  next  moment,  however,  he  turned  his 
large,  full,  imposing  face  to  me,  and  I  knew  that  it  was  he.  Shouting 
to  the  dogs  with  all  my  might,  I  at  once  dashed  towards  him,  followed 
by  my  after-rider  at  a  respectful  distance  carrying  my  rifle. 

The  lion,  as  I  expected,  was  panic-stricken,  and  took  to  his  heels, 
bounding  through  the  long  grass  at  top  speed.  The  dogs  went  at  him 
in  gallant  style,  I  following  not  far  behind  them,  and  yelling  to  encour- 
age my  pack.  The  lion,  finding  we  had  the  speed  of  him,  reduced  his 
pace  to  a  sulky  trot,  and  the  dogs  came  up  and  followed  barking  within 
a  few  yards  on  each  side  of  him.  In  half  a  minute  more  I  had  passed 
ahead  and  halted  my  horse  for  a  shot ;  but  looking  round  for  my  after- 
rider,  who  carried  my  rifle,  I  beheld  him  slowly  approaching,  with  pallid 
countenance,  at  least  a  hundred  yards  behind.  The  lion  faced  about, 
and,  springing  on  Shepherd,  one  of  my  favourite  dogs,  he  lay  for  several 
seconds  upon  him,  and  having  bitten  him  so  that  he  could  not  rise,  he 
continued  his  course.  A  few  moments  after  he  knocked  over  another 
dog,  called  Yixen,  which  escaped  with  a  slight  scratch.  The  lion  had 
now  gained  the  edge  of  a  small  cover,  and  Booi,  coming  up  at  a  very 
easy  pace,  handed  me  my  rifle.  In  another  minute  the  noble  beast 
came  to  bay  in  a  thick  bush,  and,  facing  round,  lay  down  to  await  our 
attack.  I  then  rode  up  to  within  twelve  yards  of  him,  and,  halting  my 
horse,  I  ended  the  grim  lion's  career  with  a  single  ball  behind  the 
shoulder,  cutting  the  main  arteries  close  to  the  heart.  On  receiving 
the  ball  his  head  dropped  to  the  ground,  and,  gasping  for  a  moment,  he 
expired.  I  dismounted,  and,  plucking  a  lock  of  hair  from  his  mane,  I 
placed  it  in  my  bosom  and  returned  to  camp,  having  been  absent  barely 
ten  minutes. 

After  breakfast  a  party  went  to  inspect  the  lion,  and  bring  home  his 
trophies.  On  proceeding  to  seek  for  Shepherd,  the  dog  which  the  lion 
had  knocked  over  in  the  chase,  I  found  him  with  his  back  broken  and 
his  bowels  protruding  from  a  gash  in  the  stomach ;  I  was,  therefore, 
obliged  to  end  his  misery  with  a  ball. 

We  marched  again  at  sunrise,  and  at  about  ten  A.M.  I  drew  up  my 
waggons  beside  the  large  pan  where  I  had  been  storm-stayed  for  a  week 
last  season,  On  the  march  I  shot  a  springbok  ;  and  observing  vultures, 
Mr.  Orpen  and  I  rode  towards  them  with  a  troop  of  the  dogs,  in  the 
hope  of  falling  in  with  a  lion,  but  were  disappointed.  In  the  afternoon, 
directing  the  waggons  to  follow,  I  rode  ahead  with  Booi ;  and  on 
reaching  the  next  large  pan  I  drew  the  cover  lying  to  the  south  of  it, 
expecting  to  find  a  lion.  When  the  waggons  came  up  I  formed  my 
camp  beside  the  thorn-grove,  and,  observing  a  herd  of  blue  wildebeest 
making  for  my  cattle,  I  proceeded  to  waylay  them,  and  I  fired  two  long 
shots.  Next  minute  Booi  came  up  to  me,  and  said  that  on  my  firing  he 
had  observed  a  lion  stick  his  head  up  in  the  long  grass  in  the  vley 

20 


318  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

opposite  to  me.  I  felt  inclined  to  doubt  the  veracity  of  his  optics.  I 
sent  him  back,  however,  with  instructions  to  bring  eight  dogs,  but  Booi 
thought  the  whole  pack  would  be  better,  and  returned  with  thirty. 

I  then  rode  direct  for  the  spot  where  the  lion  was  supposed  to  be. 
Booi  was  correct ;  and  on  drawing  near,  two  savage  lionesses  sat  up  in 
the  grass  and  growled  fiercely  at  us.  An  unlucky  belt  of  reeds,  about 
sixty  yards  long  and  twenty  broad,  intervened  between  me  and  the 
lionesses,  and  on  perceiving  their  danger  they  at  once  dashed  into  this 
cover  :  then  followed  the  most  woful  cutting  up  and  destruction  amongst 
my  best  and  most  valuable  dogs.  The  lionesses  had  it  all  their  own 
way.  In  vain  I  rode  round  and  round  the  small  cover  endeavouring  to 
obtain  a  peep  of  them,  which  would  have  enabled  me  to  put  a  speedy 
conclusion  to  the  murderous  work  within.  The  reeds  were  so  tall  and 
dense,  that,  although  the  lionesses  were  often  at  bay  within  eight  or  ten 
yards  of  me,  it  was  impossible  to  see  them.  At  length  one  came  outside 
the  cover  on  the  opposite  side,  when  I  fired  a  shot  from  the  saddle.  My 
horse  was  unsteady,  nevertheless  I  wounded  her,  and  acknowledging 
the  shot  with  angry  growls,  she  re-entered  the  reeds. 

A  number  of  the  dogs,  which  had  gone  off  after  a  herd  of  blue  wilde- 
beests, now  returned,  and,  coming  down  through  the  long  grass,  started 
a  third  lioness,  which  came  growling  down  into  the  cover  and  joined  her 
comrades.  This  was  the  signal  for  my  united  pack  to  make  a  bold  sally 
into  the  centre  of  the  lions'  den,  when  they  were  savagely  met  by  the 
three  lionesses,  who  rushed  furiously  up  and  down,  knocking  the  dogs 
about  with  just  as  much  facility  as  three  cats  would  have  disposed  of 
the  same  number  of  mice.  For  several  minutes  nothing  was  to  be  heard 
but  the  crashing  of  the  reeds,  the  growling  of  the  lions,  and  the  barking 
and  shrieking  of  the  mangled  pack  :  it  was  truly  a  most  painful  moment 
to  my  feelings.  Carey,  who  had  come  up  to  assist,  remarked  to  me  that 
"  there  was  an  awful  massacree  going  on  among  the  dogs  ; "  and  he  was 
right.  Night  now  setting  in  put  an  end  to  this  horrid  work,  and,  with 
feelings  of  remorse  and  deep  regret  at  my  folly  in  not  having  at  once 
called  off  my  poor  dogs,  I  wended  my  way  to  camp.  On  numbering  the 
slain  three  of  my  best  hounds  were  found  to  have  forfeited  their  lives  in 
the  unequal  contest,  and  seven  or  eight  more  were  very  badly  wounded, 
exposing  the  most  fearful  gashes,  from  which  several  of  them  never  re- 
covered. Whilst  I  was  occupied  with  the  lions  my  followers  were 
forming  a  kraal  for  the  cattle. 

Before  the  day  began  to  break  next  morning  lions  were  heard  roaring 
to  the  west :  accordingly,  I  rode  in  that  direction  with  Booi  and  a  de- 
tachment of  dogs,  still  resolved  to  follow  the  king  of  beasts,  notwith- 
standing the  disasters  of  the  former  day.  Having  ridden  about  a  mile, 
we  reached  the  end  of  a  long  piece  of  cover,  averaging  a  hundred  yards 
in  breadth,  where  I  at  once  discovered  the  fresh  spoor  of  a  troop  of 
lions.  The  dogs  took  it  up  and  followed  on  at  a  wary  pace,  the  hair 
bristling  on  their  backs.  On  reaching  the  end  of  this  cover  a  second 
one  appeared  several  hundred  yards  to  my  right,  whilst  a  little  to  my 
left  was  a  small  vley,  and  here  I  observed  a  jackal  steal  away,  while  a 
crow  sounded  his  ominous  voice  in  advance. 


ENCOUNTER    WITH    LIONS.  319 

These  signs  bid  fair  for  the  promixity  of  lions,  and  I  remarked  to  Booi 
that  we  must  be  upon  them ;  it  was  so.  Next  moment  I  observed  a 
yellow  form  on  a  barish  spot  two  hundred  yards  ahead,  which  we  knew 
must  be  the  lion,  and  thither  we  rode  at  top  speed.  On  observing  us 
he  raised  his  noble  head,  but  quickly  again  laid  it  flat  on  the  ground, 
intending  to  crouch  in  the  hope  that  we  should  pass  him  by  unnoticed. 
Within  twenty  yards  of  him  lay  a  noble  lioness  with  two  half -grown 
young  lions.  On  seeing  that  our  course  was  direct  for  where  they  lay, 
they  bounded  up  and  charged  for  the  cover  to  our  right,  the  old  lion 
displaying  more  cowardice  than  either  his  royal  spouse  or  the  young 
lions,  and  taking  the  lead  at  the  best  pace  that  he  could  muster.  I  did 
not  wait  for  my  rifle,  but  shouting  to  my  dogs  I  pressed  forward  and 
tried  to  cut  off  his  retreat.  I  was  even  with  him  and  the  lioness,  and 
within  twenty  yards,  when  they  reached  the  cover,  which  they  sullenly 
entered.  The  dogs  seemingly  were  apprehensive  of  following  too  near 
such  dangerous  game,  probably  warned  by  the  fate  of  their  comrades  on 
the  preceding  day. 

The  noble  game  having  thus  retreated,  I  placed  Booi  at  one  end  of 
the  cover  to  keep  watch,  while  I  rode  to  the  other  end  to  beat  up 
through  the  centre  with  the  dogs.  Twice  I  drew  the  cover  unsuccess- 
fully, but  the  third  time  the  dogs  found  the  lioness  lying  under  a  bushy 
tree.  Then  followed  a  bay,  when  I  rode  up  and  gave  her  both  barrels 
behind  the  shoulder,  which  partially  disabled  her.  My  third  shot 
entered  beside  her  eye  and  blew  away  the  entire  half  of  her  brain-pan. 
When  riding  up  I  had  heard  a  dog  shriek,  and  on  looking  round  me  I 
beheld  poor  Vitberg,  a  valuable  dog,  and  one  that  was  extremely 
attached  to  me,  lying  on  the  ground  utterly  disabled,  with  his  hip  so 
fearfully  mangled  that  I  was  obliged  to  blow  his  brains  out. 

A  fourth  time  we  drew  the  cover  for  the  old  lion,  but  were  still  un- 
successful. Booi  and  I  skinned  the  lioness,  cut  off  her  head,  and  returned 
to  camp.  Shortly  after  reaching  the  waggons  I  observed  a  blue  wilde- 
beest approaching  my  cattle,  which  I  stalked  and  shot.  The  afternoon 
set  in  with  a  most  terrific  hailstorm,  such  as  I  never  before  witnessed ; 
many  of  the  stones  were  from  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter.  The 
storm  came  on  with  a  sound  resembling  the  roaring  of  the  sea  :  a  dense 
intervening  fall  of  rain  obscuring  our  view,  we  were  at  a  loss  to  think 
what  it  could  be.  The  storm  sent  our  cattle  and  horses  flying  before  it 
for  miles  across  the  plain,  and  they  were  hardly  recovered  before  the 
sun  was  under.  It  blew  a  gale  of  wind  throughout  the  first  half  of  the 
night ;  tremendous  showers  of  hail  and  rain  succeeding  one  another  in 
quick  succession,  accompanied  by  appalling  thunder  and  lightning. 

As  the  day  broke  we  heard  lions  moaning  to  the  west,  and  I  rode  in 
quest  of  them,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Orpen  and  Carey,  with  a  detachment  of 
dogs.  In  drawing  the  cover  beside  which  I  had  found  the  lions  yesterday, 
I  came  upon  two  young  lions,  one  of  which,  standing  to  give  us  battle, 
I  finished  with  two  shots  :  his  comrade  stole  away,  but  after  a  sharp 
burst  the  dogs  ran  him  to  bay,  when  I  rode  up,  and,  dismounting,  flogged 
the  dogs  off,  and  slew  him  with  a  single  shot  in  the  skull. 

The  next  morning,  which  was  the  9th,  for  several  hours  before  the 


320   HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

day  dawned,  a  lion  stood  roaring  terribly  on  a  bushy  eminence  within 
two  hundred  yards  of  the  waggons,  and  held  west  just  as  it  became 
light,  roaring  occasionally  as  he  went.  We  determined  to  give  him 
battle  if  we  could  only  find  him,  and  before  it  was  clear  we  were  in  our 
saddles  pricking  along  the  edge  of  the  vley,  accompanied  by  about  a  dozen 
of  the  dogs,  who  started  the  noble  beast,  but  he  got  away  unseen  by 
any  of  us. 

Our  dogs  kept  up  an  incessant  barking  during  the  night,  and  we 
imagined  that  lions  were  prowling  around  our  camp.  In  the  morning, 
however,  we  discovered  that  we  had  been  favoured  with  the  presence  of 
far  less  illustrious,  yet  more  presuming  visitors.  A  pack  of  audacious 
hyaenas  had  visited  our  fireside,  and,  not  content  with  cracking  and 
swallowing  the  bones  which  they  found  there,  they  had  eaten  our  table- 
cloth, which  consisted  of  the  skin  of  a  sable  antelope,  and  carried  off  the 
lid  of  our  canteen  and  two  large  camp-stools,  which  I  lately  had  made 
to  order  in  Colesberg.  One  of  these  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  recover, 
minus  the  rheimpys ;  the  other  will  probably  be  found  in  after  years, 
and  preserved  as  a  Bechuana  or  Bushman  relic. 

On  the  12th  I  drew  up  my  waggons  on  the  north  bank  of  the  famous 
Meritsane.  Here  I  had  the  pleasure  to  find  that,  owing  to  a  large  tract 
of  the  country  having  been  burnt  by  the  Bakalahari  some  months 
previously,  and  favoured  by  the  rainy  season,  a  rich  and  verdant  crop 
of  young  grass  had  sprung  up,  giving  the  uudulating  plains  a  fresh  and 
vernal  appearance.  I  was  delighted  on  beholding  this,  for  I  knew  that 
it  would  have  the  effect  of  attracting  the  game  hither  from  all  the 
surrounding  parts,  and  I  confidently  hoped  to  fall  in  with  elands,  as 
they  are  generally  met  with  by  the  foremost  hunters  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Meritsane. 

Having  breakfasted,  I  saddled  up  three  of  my  fleetest  steeds,  and, 
accompanied  by  two  after-riders,  I  rode  forth  in  a  northerly  direction, 
and  carefully  sought  for  eland's  spoor.  Presently  I  crossed  the  old 
Kuruman  road,  and  immediately  discovered  fresh  spoor,  similar  to  that 
of  elands,  but,  in  my  opinion,  a  little  too  large.  In  a  buffalo  country 
I  should  have  at  once  pronounced  it  to  be  the  spoor  of  buffaloes,  but 
these  for  many  years  had  not  frequented  the  Meritsane,  and  were  not 
to  be  expected  nearer  the  Molopo.  Even  in  the  days  of  Harris,  twelve 
years  ago,  or  upwards,  buffaloes  had  forsaken  the  Meritsane.  As  I  rode 
on,  the  spoor  became  more  abundant,  and  very  soon  fresh  dung  disclosed 
to  me  that  a  very  large  herd  of  buffaloes  had  lately  pastured  there. 

The  spoor  of  zebras,  blue  wildebeests,  hartebeests,  and  sassaybys  was 
extremely  abundant,  and  of  all  of  these  I  fell  in  with  very  considerable 
herds.  I  had  resolved,  however,  not  to  disturb  the  country,  for  fear  of 
starting  any  elands  which  might  be  there,  and  rode  past,  leaving  them 
unmolested.  After  proceeding  for  many  miles,  I  had  the  mortification 
to  ascertain  that  only  a  very  few  elands  now  frequented  these  parts, 
and  after  a  fruitless  search  for  these  few  I  turned  my  face  for  camp,  and 
resolved  to  fire  into  whatever  game  I  might  fall  in  with.  I  watched  a 
large  herd  of  blue  wildebeest  and  a  herd  of  hartebeests,  and  was  very 
unfortunate,  wounding  several,  but  failing  to  secure  one.      This  was  to 


HUNTING    BUFFALOES.  321 

me  most  particularly  annoying,  our  flesh  in  camp  being  completely 
exhausted,  and  my  large  pack  of  dogs  famishing.  I  resolved  therefore 
to  march  next  morning  for  Lotlokane,  and  hunt  in  advance  of  the 
waggons. 

The  next  day  I  rode  forth  with  one  after-rider,  resolved  to  do  my 
best  to  supply  the  deficiency  in  camp.  I  directed  the  waggons  to  follow, 
and  outspan  at  the  Flat  Eocks,  half-way  to  Lotlokane.  I  had  proceeded 
but  a  short  distance  when  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  behold  a  magnificent 
herd  of  buffaloes  quietly  pasturing  within  half  a  mile  of  me  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Meritsane.  This  was  a  first-rate  look-out,  and 
exactly  what  I  stood  in  need  of,  considering  the  present  low  state  of  my 
commissariat.  I  returned  to  meet  the  waggons,  where  I  saddled  another 
steed,  named  Brown,  which  was  steady  under  fire,  and  I  once  more 
rode  forth,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Orpen,  with  two  after-riders,  and  a  large 
detachment  of  the  dogs,  resolved  to  deal  death  among  the  buffaloes. 
We  rode  to  leeward  of  the  herd  to  give  the  dogs  their  wind,  and  then 
galloped  in  upon  them.  At  first  bewildered,  they  stood  gazing  at  us 
until  we  were  within  thirty  yards  of  them,  when,  seeing  their  danger,  a 
panic  spread  throughout  the  whole  herd,  and,  wheeling  about,  they 
crashed  along  through  the  underwood  in  a  dense  mass,  impeding  one 
another's  progress. 

In  two  minutes  I  was  alongside  of  the  herd,  and,  dismounting,  fired 
right  and  left  into  two  old  cows ;  one  of  these  immediately  dropped  to 
the  rear  of  the  troop,  and,  staggering  for  a  few  seconds,  fell  over  and 
expired.  The  herd  now  left  the  river  and  doubled  back,  passing  through 
a  belt  of  low  cover.  I  halted  a  moment  to  load.  Following  on,  I  came 
right  upon  the  other  buffalo  that  I  had  wounded,  standing  with  a 
comrade  in  a  dense  bush.  I  observed  her  before  she  could  charge  me, 
and  three  more  shots  laid  her  low.  The  reports  of  Mr.  Open's  gun  now 
sounded  ahead,  and,  galloping  forward,  I  observed  him  to  my  right  active- 
ly engaged  with  four  old  buffaloes,  which  stood  at  bay  in  a  large  bush  in 
the  open  country ;  the  herd  had  vanished.  A  single  buffalo,  however,  was 
at  this  moment  making  off  between  me  and  Mr.  0.,  to  which  I  gave  chase. 
My  after-rider  was  up  first,  and  headed  it,  when  the  buffalo  charged  him 
furiously,  and  next  moment  she  charged  me,  but  my  trusty  steed  was 
too  active  for  her,  and  I  bowled  her  over  with  two  good  shots  in  the 
shoulder.  I  then  rode  up  to  assist  Mr.  0.  Two  of  the  four  buffaloes 
were  lying  wounded  in  the  bush.  Eiding  up  within  forty  yards  of  them, 
I  fired  into  a  fine  old  cow,  when  she  and  her  comrade  broke  bay,  and 
took  down  to  the  river.  Some  of  my  dogs  now  came  up  to  my  assis- 
tance, and  brought  the  wounded  buffalo  to  bay  in  the  stream,  and  two 
more  shots  laid  her  low. 

I  then  rode  to  meet  my  waggons,  which  were  standing  on  the  rising 
ground  above ;  and  as  I  was  directing  my  men  where  to  draw  up,  I 
observed  two  more  buffaloes  coming  down  the  river's  side,  which, 
observing  us,  took  shelter  in  a  belt  of  lofty  reeds.  Most  of  my  dogs 
having  come  up,  I  resolved  to  have  another  chase,  and  rode  straight  for 
the  reeds  where  the  buffaloes  had  disappeared.  I  came  right  upon  a 
noble  bull,  within  fonr  yards  of  him.      Fortunately  for  me  he  did  not 


222   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

charge,  but  broke  away  up  the  river-side,  followed  by  the  dogs.  He  led 
me  a  sharp  chase,  and  came  to  bay  at  last,  when  he  fell  with  two  shots 
within  thirty  yards  of  the  second  cow  I  had  shot  in  the  commencement 
of  the  chase.  This  made  five  old  buffaloes  I  had  bagged  out  of  the  herd; 
Mr.  Orpen  bagged  his  two,  making  in  all  seven. 

After  breakfast  I  despatched  men  with  two  spans  of  oxen,  directing 
them  to  select  four  of  the  fattest  buffaloes  and  drag  them  to  the  waggons. 
All  hands  were  busy  butchering  and  salting  until  sundown.  In  the 
evening  I  went  out  with  my  rifle  in  quest  of  a  buffalo-calf,  which  had 
been  left  by  the  herd  in  the  morning.  On  observing  me,  the  savage 
young  buffalo,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  turned  upon  me,  and  charged 
down  in  the  most  determined  manner.  I  stood  his  charge,  with  my  rifle 
at  my  shoulder,  and,  covering  his  head  until  he  was  within  four  yards 
of  me,  I  arrested  him  in  full  career,  with  a  ball  in  the  forehead. 

Three  of  the  buffaloes  which  we  had  shot  having  been  left  in  the  veld, 
I  deemed  it  more  than  probable  that  a  lion  might  be  found  on  some  one 
of  them  if  sought  for  at  early  dawn  ;  accordingly,  having  substituted  a 
bowl  of  warm  milk  for  coffee,  I  rode  forth  with  an  after-rider  and  a 
troop  of  my  dogs  to  seek  the  king  of  beasts.  On  gaining  the  first 
buffalo,  I  found  that  my  natives  had  left  a  flag  of  peace  flying  over  him, 
which  had  guarded  him  from  the  attacks  of  the  beasts  of  prey.  Upon 
the  second  buffalo,  however,  a  hundred  vultures  were  feasting  merrily, 
but,  as  I  approached  the  third,  the  sudden  rush  of  a  flight  of  vultures 
over  my  head  towards  the  buffalo  told  me  that  some  occupant,  which 
had  hitherto  kept  them  aloof,  had  that  moment  quitted  the  carcase;  and 
on  galloping  forward  and  clearing  an  intervening  rising  ground,  I  had 
the  satisfaction  to  behold  a  huge  and  shaggy  lion  trotting  slowly  off 
towards  the  cover  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  within  two  hundred 
yards  of  me. 

I  instantly  rode  for  him  at  top  speed  to  get  my  dogs  clear  of  the 
carrion,  and,  if  possible,  to  bring  the  lion  to  bay  before  he  should  gain 
any  bad  cover.  We  came  up  with  him  just  as  he  gained  a  small  belt  of 
reeds  on  the  river's  bank.  The  lion  sprang  into  the  river's  bed  and  stood 
at  bay.  Riding  up  within  fifteen  yards,  I  disabled  him  with  a  shot  in 
the  shoulder,  and  then,  springing  from  my  horse,  which  was  unsteady, 
I  went  up  to  within  twelve  yards  on  foot,  and  finished  him  with  my 
second  shot,  which  he  'got  behind  the  shoulder.  This  was  a  fine  old 
lion,  with  perfect  tusks  and  a  very  beautiful  coat  of  hair.  Leaving  Booi 
to  protect  him  from  the  vultures,  I  rode  to  camp,  and  despatched  men 
with  instructions  to  flay  him  with  the  utmost  care.  In  the  afternoon  I 
inspanned,  intending  to  march,  but  continued  showers  of  rain  prevented 
me.     Next  day,  however,  we  reached  Lotlokane. 

As  morning  dawned  on  the  16th  a  lion  roared  to  the  north  within  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  of  us,  and  shortly  after  two  other  lions  moaned  to  the 
east.  I  rode  in  quest  of  them  with  dogs  and  an  after-rider.  Hartebeests, 
zebras,  and  pallahs  were  standing  about  in  all  directions,  and  leading 
my  dogs  away  I  failed  to  find  the  lion.  In  the  afternoon,  anxious  to 
obtain  a  gemsbok,  I  saddled  up  my  three  fleetest  steeds,  and  rode  in  a 
northerly  direction,  with  two  after-riders,  taking  with  me  a  light  single- 


ELANDS    AND    ELEPHANTS.  323 


barrelled  gun.  I  started  several  fine  steinboks,  which  are  here  abundant. 
Having  ridden  a  few  miles,  I  entered  upon  a  magnificent  level  park, 
adorned  with  groves  of  thorn-trees,  on  which  were  grazing  large  herds 
of  blue  wildebeests,  zebras,  hartebeests,  and  springboks.  Knowing  that 
eland  and  gemsbok  are  generally  to  be  found  in  the  vicinity  of  herds  of 
other  game,  I  resolved  to  ride  in  a  semicircle  to  windward  of  these,  and 
carefully  examine  the  ground  for  the  game  I  sought. 

Having  made  a  sweep  for  this  purpose,  we  were  slowly  returning, 
when  four  superb  elands  charged  up  wind  right  in  our  faces.  To  these 
we  instantly  gave  chase.  Booi,  coming  up  first,  singled  out  the  heaviest 
bull,  which  he  broke  from  the  troop,  and  drove  towards  camp.  Coming 
up  with  the  remaining  three,  I  selected  the  best  head,  and,  after  a  sharp 
chase,  laid  him  low  with  a  single  shot  in  the  shoulder.  I  then  rode  to 
assist  Booi,  who  was  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  windward  on  the  plain 
below  me  :  and  coming  up  to  him,  we  cannily  drove  on  the  noble  eland, 
which  we  succeeded  in  bringing  right  up  to  the  waggons,  where  I 
bowled  him  over  with  two  shots  in  the  shoulder.  Not  yet  having  a 
stuffed  bull  eland's  head,  and  being  a  fair  specimen,  I  directed  it  to  be 
cut  off  for  my  collection. 

We  now  held  on  for  the  Molopo,  upon  the  banks  of  which  I  had  some 
fine  sport  with  roan  antelope  and  reitbuck,  and  on  the  29  th  of  May 
reached  Sichely's  kraal  on  the  Kouloubeng. 

Within  a  mile  of  this  chief's  residence  we  were  met  by  parties  of  the 
Baquaines :  these  men  had  been  sent  by  Sichely  to  ascertain  who  we 
were,  he  having  heard  from  some  Bakalahari  that  three  waggons  were 
at  hand.  I  saddled  up  and  rode  ahead  of  the  waggons  with  Mr.  Living- 
stone's letters. 

On  the  31st  we  again  unspanned  and  held  on  for  the  Limpopo, 
reaching  my  old  drift  on  that  river  on  the  15  th  of  June. 

The  greater  part  of  the  day  was  devoted  to  cutting  down  the  opposite 
bank  and  getting  the  waggons  through,  which  we  accomplished  by 
sundown,  taking  each  waggon  through  with  twenty  oxen. 

On  the  18th,  the  moon  being  full,  I  crossed  the  river  with  Mr.  Orpen, 
Carey,  and  attendants,  and  made  for  the  fountain  at  Charebe,  in  the 
hope  of  enjoying  some  night-shooting  with  elephants.  We  had  the  ill 
luck  to  alarm  the  elephants  frequenting  the  water  and  to  drive  them 
out  of  the  district.  On  the  23rd,  as  I  was  returning  to  camp  from  the 
water  at  Guapa,  we  suddenly  heard  the  cry  of  elephants  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  to  windward.  I  took  Eamachumie  along  with  me  and  held 
forward  for  an  inspection  of  the  troop. 

The  cries  of  elephants  were  repeated  in  different  directions,  and  I  at 
once  knew  that  there  must  be  a  very  large  herd  of  them.  Having 
ascended  a  lofty  thorn-tree,  I  obtained  a  view  of  the  grey  backs  of  some 
of  the  elephants  appearing  above  the  underwood  of  the  forest.  I  sent 
Ramachumie  back  to  bring  up  the  dogs,  and  when  they  came  I  rode 
forward  for  a  nearer  inspection.  It  was  a  troop  of  upwards  of  a  hundred 
elephants,  but  it  consisted  entirely  of  cows  and  young  bulls.  Having 
endeavoured  for  nearly  half  an  hour  to  select  a  good  elephant,  I  crept 
in  within  fifteen  yards  of  a  fairish  bull,  and  gave  him  a  shot  behind  the 


324     HUNTING  AND   SPOETING  ADVENTUKES. 

shoulder  :  my  followers,  however,  failed  to  slip  the  dogs  or  to  bring  on 
my  horse,  and  while  I  ran  back  for  them  the  elephant  got  away  in  the 
herd.  The  dogs  attacked  another  bull,  which,  after  a  long  chase,  I 
rolled  over.  The  elephant  had  scarcely  fallen,  when  old  Mutchuisho, 
with  a  party  of  Bamangwato  men,  came  up  like  a  flight  of  vultures  in 
quest  of  flesh.     The  next  day  I  shot  another  elephant. 

On  the  29th  I  again  inspanned,  and  in  the  afternoon  crossed  the 
Macoolwey  and  drew  up  on  its  opposite  bank.  On  the  march  I  hunted 
ahead  of  the  waggons,  and  shot  a  waterbuck  and  doe,  and  started  a 
troop  of  seven  or  eight  lions,  headed  by  a  patriarchal-looking  old  fellow 
of  unusual  size. 

One  long  march  across  country  on  the  next  day  brought  the  waggons 
to  the  Basileka.  I  hunted  ahead  of  the  waggons,  and  shot  two  pallahs 
and  a  cow-camelopard.  We  formed  the  waggons  at  my  old  camp,  but, 
observing  tsetse  on  the  horses,  I  at  once  resolved  to  leave  Seleka's  on 
the  morrow. 

About  midnight  a  huge  lion  made  a  most  daring  attack  on  my  cattle- 
kraal,  charging  recklessly  through  the  thick  thorn-hedge  :  he  sent  the 
panic-stricken  cattle  flying  in  dire  confusion,  and  dashed  to  the  ground  a 
valuable  ox,  which  lay  groaning  in  his  powerful  grasp.  I  was  awakened 
by  the  noise,  and,  instantly  directing  a  troop  of  the  dogs  to  be  let  loose, 
the  cowardly  lion  was  put  to  flight.  The  poor  ox  sprang  to  his  feet  and 
joined  his  companions,  but  I  was  obliged  to  shoot  him  next  day,  his 
fore  and  hind  quarters  having  been  fearfully  lacerated. 

About  nine  A.M.  I  left  Seleka's,  and  at  sundown  halted  on  the  Limpopo, 
opposite  Gluapa. 

Here  I  remained  for  many  days,  making  successful  excursions  with 
Mr.  Orpen  across  the  river  in  search  of  elephants.  On  these  occasions, 
however,  and  likewise  upon  all  subsequent  encounters  with  the  elephants, 
I  had  the  mortification  to  remark  that  on  coming  up  with  the  elephants 
my  followers  invariably  yielded  to  a  natural  impulse,  and  thus  through- 
out the  entire  expedition  the  whole  brunt  of  the  elephant-hunting  lay 
upon  my  shoulders,  not  a  single  elephant  being  bagged  or  even  wounded 
by  any  individual  in  my  establishment  except  myself. 

On  our  return  from  one  of  these  expeditions  we  came  upon  a  heart- 
sickening  sight.  The  Bamalette  tribe,  through  whose  district  we  were 
now  hunting,  had  been  attacked  and  put  to  flight  by  Sicomy  a  few 
months  before,  when  a  large  number  of  them  were  massacred,  in 
consequence  of  which  they  had  deserted  their  former  town  and  ensconced 
themselves  in  an  elevated  ravine  in  the  mountains.  We  visited  their 
deserted  town  and  the  ground  over  which  they  had  been  pursued  and 
slain.  We  were  horrified  to  behold  the  bleaching  bones  and  skulls  of 
those  who  had  fallen  ;  the  wolf  and  jackal  had  feasted  on  their  remains, 
and  laid  the  long  grass  flat  round  each  skeleton.  Hair  and  torn  fragments 
of  karosses  lay  scattered  around,  and  the  blood  was  still  visible  upon 
the  stones. 

On  the  12th  I  had  another  hard  day  in  the  mountains  after  elephants, 
and  at  night  I  watched  a  fountain,  and  shot  an  old  lioness.     She  came 


A  TROOP  OF  BULL  ELEPHANTS.    325 

and  drank  within  ten  yards  of  me ;  the  ball  entered  the  centre  of  her 
breast,  and  rested  in  the  skin  in  the  middle  of  her  back. 

On  the  13th  I  despatched  men  to  camp  with  the  skin  of  the  lioness, 
arid  held  south  for  Charebe,  which  I  found  still  deserted  by  the  elephants. 
In  the  evening  the  natives  were  all  busy  cooking  the  flesh  of  the  lioness, 
which  was  excessively  fat,  and  esteemed  by  them  a  particular  delicacy. 
For  my  own  part,  although  starving,  and  so  weak  from  famine  that  I 
could  scarcely  walk,  I  could  not  persuade  myself  to  partake  of  their 
repulsive  repast.  I  had  left  my  coffee-kettle,  and  other  necessaries,  for 
the  use  of  Mr.  Orpen,  on  the  far  side  of  the  mountain,  and  had  since 
that  been  unsuccessful  in  the  chase.  After  a  little  rest  I  mustered 
strength  to  saunter  to  the  fountain,  where  I  had  the  good  fortune  to 
shoot  a  pallah. 

On  the  25th  of  July  at  sunrise  we  inspanned  and  held  down  the  river, 
leaving  three  more  of  my  stud  behind  me,  two  dead,  and  the  other 
dying  of  tsetse.  At  sundown  we  halted  about  twenty  miles  down  the 
river.  Whilst  on  our  march  next  morning  we  came  across  the  fresh 
spoor  of  a  troop  of  bull-elephants,  when  I  immediately  outspanned.  I 
was  proceeding  to  follow  up  the  spoor  of  these  elephants,  when  I  was 
met  by  a  party  of  Bakalahari,  who  informed  me  that  other  elephants 
had  drunk  on  the  opposite  side,  and  some  miles  higher  up  the  river, 
during  the  night.  I  accordingly  resolved  to  go  in  quest  of  them.  We 
crossed  the  Limpopo  at  a  most  rocky  drift,  where  the  horses  were  in 
danger  of  breaking  their  legs,  and,  holding  up  the  river,  we  took  up  the 
spoor  of  three  old  bulls.  Having  followed  it  for  five  miles,  we  at  length 
got  into  a  country  covered  with  locusts  that  the  spoor  was  no  longer 
visible.  A  large  herd  of  elephants  had,  during  several  previous  nights 
been  there  feasting  upon  these  insects.  After  a  little  we  made  a  cast  in 
advance,  and  again  discovered  the  spoor  of  the  three  bulls,  and  came  up 
with  them  about  an  hour  before  sundown,  in  company  with  a  noble 
troop  of  about  fifteen  other  bull-elephants,  and,  the  wind  being  favour- 
able, they  were  not  aware  of  our  approach. 

Whilst  riding  slowly  round  them  on  the  lee  side,  endeavouring  to 
select  the  best  bull,  a  splendid  old  fellow  broke  across  from  my  right, 
whose  ivory  far  surpassed  any  other  in  the  herd.  To  him  I  accordingly 
adhered,  and  laid  him  low  after  an  easy  battle,  having  only  given  him 
five  shots.  I  received  no  assistance  from  my  dogs,  they,  as  is  often  the 
case,  having  packed  upon  the  worst  elephant  in  the  troop.  The  tusks 
of  this  huge  elephant  being  unusually  perfect,  I  resolved  to  preserve 
the  entire  skill.  I  accordingly  sent  a  messenger  to  camp  to  instruct  my 
people  to  bring  a  waggon  for  the  head,  while  I  stood  sentry  over  it. 
Three  days  passed  before  the  waggon  appeared,  having  had  to  cross  the 
Limpopo  at  a  ford  many  miles  above  my  camp.  I  occupied  myself  in 
the  mean  time  in  preparing  the  feet  of  the  elephant,  which  I  preserved. 

Returning  to  camp,  I  shot  an  unusually  fine  old  bull  giraffe,  whose 
head  I  preserved.  For  several  days  following  I  hunted  elephants  in  the 
forests  east  of  the  Limpopo  with  great  success.  On  the  4th,  having 
partaken  of  an  eland  which  I  shot  on  the  preceding  evening,  I  took  up 
the  spoor  of  elephants,  which  after  following  to  a  very  great  distance  I 


326  HUNTING  AND  SPOETING  ADVENTURES. 

found  to  have  been  started  by  a  party  of  Bakalahari.  At  night  I 
watched  the  fountain  of  Tetenie.  Long  after  midnight,  as  the  moon 
was  waning,  two  giraffes  drew  near,  which  I  mistook  for  an  elephant, 
and  unfortunately  slipped  the  dogs.  A  troop  of  lions,  on  their  way  to 
the  fountain,  were  prowling  about  to  leeward  of  the  cameleopards  ;  a 
part  of  the  dogs  took  after  the  cameleopards,  but  others,  among  which 
were  my  best,  rashly  gave  chase  to  the  lions.  I  galloped  on  in  darkness 
vainly  listening  to  hear  the  trumpet  of  the  supposed  elephant ;  a  strong 
wind  that  was  blowing  rendered  it  difficult  to  hear  any  sound.  Presently 
the  loud  moaning  of  a  dog  was  heard  to  leeward,  which  I  imagined  was 
one  of  the  dogs  which  had  lost  its  way.  On  returning  to  the  fountain 
we  coupled  up  the  dogs,  and  found  all  present  except  Spikbard,  which 
I  had  obtained  from  my  old  friend  Murphy  in  Colesberg ;  this  was  a 
large,  handsome,  rough,  red  dog,  and  by  far  the  most  sagacious  and 
valuable  in  my  pack. 

Next  day  I  was  utterly  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the  rapid  disappearance 
of  the  elephant  of  last  night,  and  also  of  my  favourite  dog ;  but  on  pro- 
ceeding to  inspect  the  ground  I  found  that  no  elephant  had  been  there, 
and  that  I  had  been  deluded  by  the  lofty  form  of  a  couple  of 
camelopards.  I  then  recollected  the  moaning  of  the  preceding  evening, 
and  conjectured  that  Spikbard  had  been  killed  by  a  kick  from  one  of 
them.  In  the  afternoon,  however,  the  sad  fate  of  poor  Spikbard  was 
revealed  by  the  vultures.  Observing  these  fall  in  the  forest  in  the 
direction  in  which  I  had  heard  moaning  on  the  preceding  evening,  I 
rode  thither,  and,  to  my  utter  horror,  I  found  poor  Spikbard  fearfully 
mangled  by  a  troop  of  ruthless  lions :  the  ground  presented  a  fearful 
spectacle,  being  covered  for  yards  by  his  blood  and  hair ;  the  lions  had 
chased  others  of  the  dogs,  but  had  failed  to  capture  them. 

On  the  7th  we  reached  the  village  of  Bakalahari  where  I  had  lain  so 
long  last  year,  where  poor  Hendrick  had  been  dragged  from  the  fire  and 
killed  by  a  lion.  I  found  the  village  deserted,  and  the  spoor  and  dung 
of  elephants  where  last  season  the  natives  were  wont  to  hold  their 
parliament.  We  halted,  and  formed  our  camp  a  little  below  the  deserted 
village,  beside  a  widespreading  green  tree. 

On  the  8th  I  held  for  the  fine  fountain  called  Seboono  to  watch  for  ele- 
phants by  moonlight.  As  we  made  the  fountain  a  magnificent  troop  of 
twenty-two  giraffes  were  drawn  up  by  the  edge  of  the  forest  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  and  a  troop  of  seven  or  eight  wild  boars  trotted  away  from  the 
water  with  tails  erect.  In  the  evening  the  same  troop  of  giraffes  revisited 
the  fountain,  reinforced  by  another  troop  of  bull  giraffes  :  koodoos, 
zebras,  and  a  princely  old  bull  eland,  also  came  to  drink.  I  was  sur- 
prised to  see  this  eland  come  in  and  drink,  having  always  been  led 
to  believe  that  elands  never  drink.  About  an  hour  after  night  set  in, 
several  parties  of  rhinoceros  made  their  appearance,  and  presently  a 
low  rumbling  noise  announced  the  approach  of  an  elephant ;  on  he 
came,  a  mighty  old  bull,  carrying  only  one  tusk.  When  the  dogs  were 
slipped  nearly  all  of  them  dashed  off  after  a  white  rhinoceros,  to  which 
they  most  pertinaceously  adhered  for  about  two  hours.  I  had  extremely 
hard  work  with  the  elephant,  the  forest  being  dense  and  consisting 


ELEPHANT   AND    HIPPOPOTAMI    HUNT.    327 

chiefly  of  thorn-trees,  and  the  sky  overcast  with  clouds  :  at  length, 
however,  I  vanquished  him,  and  he  fell,  having  received  about  twenty- 
five  balls.  The  dogs  being  still  engaged  with  the  rhinoceros,  I  rode 
thither  and  found  a  huge  old  muchocho  standing  at  bay  in  a  grove, 
which  was  either  sulky  or  completely  knocked  up,  for,  on  my  coming 
up,  he  neither  attempted  to  charge  nor  retreat,  and  allowed  me  to  flog 
off  the  dogs  unmolested,  which  I  did  and  left  him. 

Next  day  I  bent  my  steps  for  the  fountain  Pepe,  where,  in  the 
preceding  year,  I  had  enjoyed  such  excellent  night  hunting.  Here  I 
hunted  the  elephants  with  dogs  and  horses,  as  before,  and  was  particularly 
successful,  as  also  with  rhinoceros  and  cameleopard,  etc.  Some  of  these 
elephants  were  killed  on  very  dark  nights,  when  there  was  no- moon, 
and  the  stars  themselves  were  overcast  by  heavy  banks  of  clouds.  To 
illustrate  this  it  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  transcribe  a  few  lines  from 
my  journal  of  the  15th  : — 

The  moon  rising  late,  at  night  I  kept  the  first  watch,  and  presently 
heard  black  and  white  rhinoceros  blowing  round  the  fountain ;  it  was 
much  too  dark  to*  see.  Amid  the  noise  of  the  rhinoceroses  I  fancied 
that  I  heard  the  sweeping  step  of  an  elephant  in  the  water,  and  Carey 
and  I  accordingly  went  down  and  crept  close  in  to  the  edge  of  the 
fountain.  A  huge  dark  mass  was  detected  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
water,  but  so  dark  was  the  night  that  Carey  pronounced  it  to  be  a  black 
rhinoceros.  He  however  presently  turned  his  broadside,  when  I  saw 
that  it  was  an  elephant,  and  directed  Carey  to  fly  and  bring  the  dogs 
with  all  speed  :  both  black  and  white  rhinoceros  of  course  stood  right 
in  the  way  of  the  dogs.  I  led  these  past  the  rhinoceroses,  and  in  utter 
darkness  I  slipped  one  couple  of  dogs  where  I  supposed  the  elephant  to 
have  been ;  these  took  his  scent,  and  presently  my  anxious  ear  was 
greeted  by  a  bark,  instantly  followed  by  the  shrill  trumpet  of  a  mighty 
bull  elephant.  I  then  slipped  the  remainder  of  the  dogs;  and  after  some 
difficult  and  dangerous  work,  owing  to  the  pitchy  darkness  and  the 
denseness  of  the  wait-a-bits,  I  laid  him  low  with  about  twenty  bullets. 
While  I  was  fighting  with  him  the  moon  rose,  and  when  the  natives 
came  up  to  catch  the  dogs  her  silvery  horn  was  blinking  through  the  trees. 

By  the  24th  of  August  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  making  up  my  bag 
to  a  hundred  and  five  select  elephants  killed  in  South  Africa.  We  now 
found  the  district  to  be  much  deserted  by  the  elephants,  and  accordingly 
on  the  3rd  of  September  we  inspanned  the  waggons  and  marched  down 
the  Limpopo  towards  the  district  frequented  by  hippopotami. 

On  the  4th  I  rode  up  the  river  to  shoot  hippopotami.  Of  these  I 
found  three  troops,  and  bagged  one  first-rate  bull  and  wounded  others. 
I  saw  several  crocodiles  of  unusual  vastness.  Some  of  them  must  have 
been  sixteen  feet  in  length,  with  bodies  as  large  as  that  of  an  ox. 
Eeturning  to  the  waggons  in  the  evening,  I  heard  Mr.  Orpen  engaged 
with  a  huge  invincible  old  bull-hippopotamus.  On  going  to  his  assistance, 
and  finding  that  he  had  expended  his  ammunition,  I  attacked  the 
hippopotamus,  which  I  barely  finished  with  six  or  eight  more  shots. 

On  the  5th  I  rode  down  the  river,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Orpen,  to 
shoot  hippopotami.     We  bagged  seven  very  fine  old  specimens,  two  of 


328    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


which  were  bulls  :  one  of  these  monsters  of  the  river  received  sixteen 
bullets  in  the  head  before  I  could  finish  him.  In  the  heat  of  the  conflict 
a  huge  crocodile,  attracted  by  the  blood,  suddenly  made  its  appearance, 
and  kept  swimming  round  the  hippopotamus  in  a  state  of  great  excite- 
ment, regardless  of  his  struggles,  which  reminded  me  of  a  whale,  and  so 
agitated  the  broad  river  that  considerable  waves  lashed  the  shores  on 
either  side.  I  slew  the  crocodile  with  a  single  ball,  which  crashed 
through  the  centre  of  his  skull.  On  receiving  the  shot  he  turned  over 
on  his  side,  and  remained  motionless  in  that  position  for  some  minutes 
on  the  surface  of  the  water,  with  one  fore  and  one  hind  leg  stretched 
and  quivering  in  the  air  like  a  dying  frog  :  after  which,  having  emitted 
a  smell  of  musk  so  powerful  as  to  cause  the  little  Bushman  to  run 
shrieking  from  the  bank,  he  gently  sank  into  his  watery  grave. 

We  rode  down  the  river  for  several  mornings  hunting  after  hippopo- 
tami, a  great  number  of  which  we  killed.  As  the  tusks  of  some  of  these 
were  very  fine,  we  chopped  them  out  of  the  jaw-bones,  a  work  of  consider- 
able difficulty.  On  the  17th  I  was  attacked  with  acute  rheumatic  fever, 
which  kept  me  to  my  bed,  and  gave  me  excruciating  pain.  Whilst  I 
lay  in  this  helpless  state  Mr.  Orpen  and  Present,  who  had  gone  up  the 
river  to  shoot  sea-cows,  fell  in  with  an  immense  male  leopard,  which  the 
latter  wounded  very  badly.  They  then  sent  natives  to  camp  to  ask  me 
for  dogs,  of  which  I  sent  them  a  pair.  In  about  an  hour  the  natives 
came  running  to  camp  and  said  that  Orpen  was  killed  by  the  leopard. 

On  further  inquiry,  however,  I  found  that  he  was  not  really  killed, 
but  fearfully  torn  and  bitten  about  the  arms  and  head.  They  had 
rashly  taken  up  the  spoor  on  foot,  the  dogs  following  behind  them, 
instead  of  going  in  advance.  The  consequence  of  this  was,  that  they 
came  right  upon  the  leopard  before  they  were  aware  of  him,  when 
Orpen  fired  and  missed  him.  The  leopard  then  sprang  on  his  shoulders, 
and,  dashing  him  to  the  ground,  lay  upon  him  growling  and  lacerating 
his  hands,  arms,  and  head  most  fearfully.  In  a  few  minutes  the 
leopard's  strength  failed  him,  being  faint  from  loss  of  blood,  and,  rolling 
over,  he  permitted  Orpen  to  rise  and  come  away.  Where  were  the 
gallant  Present  and  all  the  natives,  that  not  a  man  of  them  moved  to 
assist  the  unfortunate  Orpen  1  According  to  an  established  custom 
among  all  colonial  servants,  the  instant  the  leopard  sprang  Present 
discharged  his  piece  in  the  air,  and  then,  dashing  it  to  the  ground,  he 
rushed  down  the  bank  and  jumped  into  the  river,  along  which  he  swam 
some  hundred  yards  before  he  would  venture  on  terra  firma.  The 
natives,  though  numerous  and  armed,  had  likewise  fled  in  another 
direction. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


Mr.  Orphen  and  myself  in  a  helpless  condition — We  leave  the  low-lying  Limpopo 
for  the  Mountains — Trading  with  Seleka — Ceremony  to  impart  the  power  of 
successful  Shooting — March  to  the  Ngotwani  and  retrace  our  steps  to  the  Lim- 
popo— Enormous  Herds   of  Buffaloes — An  exciting  Lion-hunt — Three  of  my 


< 

X 

u 


LARGE  HERDS  OF  BUFFALOES.     329 


Dogs  killed — The  noble  Beast  takes  the  water,  followed  by  a  Dog  and  a 
Crocodile — A  bold  Mountain-range — Abundance  of  Game — A  brilliant  Lion- 
hunt — Two  killed  out  of  a  troop  of  four — Rhinoceros-hunting — Leave  the 
Mariqua  River — Sublime  Scenery — Another  Lion-Hunt — A  Buffalo  rips  up  my 
After-rider's  Horse — Camelopard- Chase — Sudden  encounter  with  two  huge 
Lions — Arrival  at  Sichely's  Kraal. 

Both  Orpen  and  myself  were  now  reduced  to  a  state  of  utter 
helplessness — he  from  his  wound,  which  were  many  and  dangerous,  and 
I  from  the  fever,  though  I  was  slowly  recovering.  It  was  of  no  use 
therefore  to  remain  longer  in  the  low-lying  district  about  the  Limpopo, 
so  I  resolved  to  march  on  steadily  to  Sichely's  country.  We  accordingly 
marched  on  the  27th  of  September,  and  on  the  2nd  of  October  I  encamped 
on  the  bank  of  the  Limpopo,  a  little  above  its  junction  with  the  Lepalala. 
Here  Seleka's  men  requested  me  to  halt  for  a  day,  as  their  chief  wished 
to  trade  with  me,  which  I  agreed  to  do. 

Next  morning  Seleka  arrived  with  a  considerable  retinue,  bringing 
some  good  specimens  of  Bechuana  arms  to  barter  for  muskets  and 
ammunition.  He  made  me  a  present  of  some  Bechuana  beer,  and  a  sort 
of  fermented  porridge;  this,  he  said,  he  considered  as  a  gift,  but  he 
expected  that  I,  in  return,  would  give  him  some  gunpowder.  This  is 
usual  style  of  presents  in  Southern  Africa. 

In  the  afternoon  I  exchanged  a  musket  for  nine  very  handsome  assagais, 
a  battle-axe,  and  two  shields  of  buffalo-hide.  I  also  exchanged  some 
assagais  for  ammunition  :  and  obtained  other  articles  of  native  manu- 
facture in  payment  for  cutting  the  arms  of  two  or  three  of  the  nobility, 
and  rubbing  medicine  into  the  incisions,  to  enable  them  to  shoot  well. 
Whilst  performing  this  absurd  ceremony,  in  which  the  Bechuanas  have 
unbounded  faith,  I  held  before  the  eyes  of  the  inititated  sportsman  prints 
of  each  of  the  game  quadrupeds  of  the  country ;  at  the  same  time 
anointing  him  with  the  medicine  (which  was  common  turpentine),  and 
looking  him  most  seriously  in  the  face,  I  said,  in  his  own  language, 
"  Slay  the  game  well ;  let  the  course  of  thy  bullet  be  through  the  hearts 
of  the  wild  beasts,  thine  hand  and  heart  be  strong  against  the  lion, 
against  the  great  elephant,  against  the  rhinoceros,  against  the  buffalo,"  etc. 

On  the  5th  we  marched  at  sunrise,  and,  trekking  steadily  along,  arrived 
on  the  8th  at  the  drift  on  the  Limpopo  where,  on  the  former  occasion, 
I  had  crossed  the  river.  The  game  was  very  abundant  in  our  course, 
but  Carey  and  Present  were  rarely  successful  in  killing  and  I  was  obliged, 
at  length,  weak  as  I  was,  to-take  the  field,  as  we  were  sadly  in  want  of 
flesh.  On  the  13th  we  made  the  banks  of  Ngotwani,  up  which  we 
proceeded  for  several  days;  but  finding  that,  owing  to  the  long  pro- 
tracted droughts,  its  waters  were  dried  up,  and  that  it  would  be 
impossible  to  reached  Sichely's  country  by  this  route,  I  determined  to 
retrace  my  steps.  We  accordingly  marched  for  the  Limpopo,  which  I 
fell  in  with  once  more  on  the  23rd,  having  killed  a  noble  old  lion  in 
my  way. 

We  trekked  up  along  the  banks  of  the  river  for  the  Mariqua,  and  a 
little  before  sundown  fell  in  with  two  enormous  herds  of  buffaloes,  one 
of  which,  consisting  chiefly  of  bulls,  stood  under  the  shady  trees  on  one 
side  of  the  bank,  whilst  the  other,  composed  chiefly  of  cows  and  calves, 


330    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


stood  on  the  opposite  side,  a  little  higher  up  the  river.  In  all  there 
were  at  least  three  hundred.  Thinking  it  probable  that  if  I  hunted 
them  I  might  kill  some  old  bull  with  a  head  perhaps  worthy  of  my 
collection,  I  ordered  my  men  to  outspan,  and,  having  saddled  steeds,  I 
gave  chase  to  the  herd  of  bulls,  accompanied  by  Booi  and  my  dogs. 
After  a  short  burst  they  took  through  the  river,  whereby  I  lost  sight  of 
an  old  bull  which  carried  the  finest  head  in  the  herd.  My  dogs,  however, 
brought  a  cow  to  bay  as  they  crossed  the  river,  which  I  shot  standing 
in  the  water,  but  not  before  she  had  killed  a  particularly  favourite 
bull-dog,  named  Pompey.  I  then  continued  the  chase,  and  again  came 
up  with  the  herd,  which  was  now  considerably  scattered ;  and  after  a 
sharp  chase,  part  of  which  was  through  thick  wait-a-bit  thorn  cover,  I 
brought  eight  or  nine  fine  bulls  to  bay  in  lofty  reeds  at  the  river's  margin, 
exactly  opposite  to  my  camp  :  of  these  I  singled  out  the  two  best  heads, 
one  of  which  I  shot  with  five  balls,  and  wounded  the  other  badly,  but 
he  made  off  while  I  was  engaged  with  his  comrade. 

In  the  morning  I  instructed  four  of  my  people  to  cross  the  river,  and 
bring  over  a  supply  of  buffalo  beef.  These  men  were  very  reluctant  to 
go,  fearing  a  lion  might  have  taken  possession  of  the  carcase.  On  pro- 
ceeding to  reconnoitre  from  our  side,  they  beheld  the  majestic  beast 
they  dreaded  walk  slowly  up  the  opposite  bank  from  the  dead  buffalo, 
and  take  up  a  position  on  the  top  of  the  bank  under  some  shady  thorn- 
trees.  I  resolved  to  give  him  battle,  and  rode  forth  with  my  double- 
barrelled  Westley  Richards  rifle,  followed  by  men  leading  the  dogs. 
Present,  who  was  one  of  the  party,  carried  his  roer,  no  doubt  to  perform 
wonders.  The  wind  blew  up  the  river  ;  I  accordingly  held  up  to  seek 
a  drift,  and  crossed  a  short  distance  above  where  the  buffalo  lay.  As  we 
drew  near  the  spot,  I  observed  the  lion  sitting  on  the  top  of  the  bank, 
exactly  where  he  had  last  been  seen  by  my  people.  On  my  right,  and 
within  two  hundred  yards  of  me,  was  a  very  extensive  troop  of  pallahs, 
which  antelope  invariably  manages  to  be  in  the  way  when  it  is  not  at  all 
wanted.  On  this  occasion,  however,  I  succeeded  in  preventing  my  dogs 
from  observing  them.  When  the  lion  saw  us  coming,  he  overhauled  us 
for  a  moment,  and  then  slunk  down  the  bank  for  concealment ;  being 
well  to  leeward  of  him,  I  ordered  the  dogs  to  be  slipped,  and  galloped 
forward. 

On  finding  that  he  was  attacked,  the  lion  at  first  made  a  most 
determined  bolt  for  it,  followed  by  all  the  dogs  at  a  racing  pace  ;  and 
when  they  came  up  with  him  he  would  not  bay,  but  continued  his 
course  down  the  bank  of  the  river,  keeping  close  in  beside  the  reeds, 
growling  terribly  at  the  dogs,  which  kept  up  an  incessant  angry  barking. 
The  bank  of  the  river  was  intersected  by  deep  watercourses,  and,  the 
ground  being  extremely  slippery  from  the  rain  which  had  fallen  during 
the  night,  I  was  unable  to  overtake  him  until  he  came  to  bay  in  a  patch 
of  lofty  dense  reeds  which  grew  on  the  lower  bank  immediately  adjacent 
to  the  river's  margin.  I  had  brought  out  eleven  of  my  dogs,  and  before 
I  could  come  up  three  of  them  were  killed.  On  reaching  the  spot  I 
found  it  impossible  to  obtain  the  smallest  glimpse  of  the  lion,  although 
the  ground  favoured  me,  I  having  the  upper  bank  to  stand  upon ;  so, 


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ANOTHER   LION    SLAIN.  331 

dismounting  from  my  horse,  I  tried  to  guess,  from  his  horrid  growling, 
his  exact  position,  and  fired  several  shots  on  chance,  but  none  of  these 
hit  him.  I  then  commenced  pelting  him  with  lumps  of  earth  and  sticks, 
there  being  no  stones  at  hand.  This  had  the  effect  of  making  him  shift 
his  position,  but  he  still  kept  in  the  densest  part  of  the  reeds,  where  I 
could  do  nothing  with  him. 

Presently  my  followers  came  up,  who,  as  a  matter  of  course,  at  once 
established  themselves  safely  in  the  tops  of  thorn-trees.  After  about 
ten  minutes7  bullying,  the  lion  seemed  to  consider  his  quarters  too  hot 
for  him,  and  suddenly  made  a  rush  to  escape  from  his  persecutors,  con- 
tinuing his  course  down  along  the  edge  of  the  river.  The  dogs,  however, 
again  gave  him  chase,  and  soon  brought  him  to  bay  in  another  dense 
patch  of  reeds,  just  as  bad  as  the  last.  Out  of  this  in  a  few  minutes  I 
managed  to  start  him,  when  he  bolted  up  the  river,  and  came  to  bay  in 
a  narrow  strip  of  reeds.  Here  he  lay  so  close  that  for  a  long  time  I 
could  not  ascertain  his  whereabouts ;  at  length,  however,  he  made  a 
charge  among  the  dogs,  and,  coming  forward,  took  up  a  position  near 
the  outside  of  the  reeds,  where  for  the  first  time  I  was  enabled  to  give 
him  a  shot.  My  ball  entered  his  body  a  little  behind  the  shoulder. 
On  receiving  it  he  charged  growling  after  the  dogs,  but  not  farther  than 
the  edge  of  the  reeds,  out  of  which  he  was  extremely  reluctant  to  move. 
I  gave  him  a  second  shot,  firing  for  his  head ;  my  ball  entered  at  the 
edge  of  his  eye,  and  passed  through  the  back  of  the  roof  of  his  mouth. 

The  lion  then  sprang  up,  and,  facing  about,  dashed  through  the  reeds, 
and  plunged  into  the  river,  across  which  he  swam,  dyeing  the  waters 
with  his  blood  ;  one  black  dog,  named  "  Schwart,"  alone  pursued  him. 
A  huge  crocodile,  attracted  by  the  blood,  followed  in  their  wake,  but 
fortunately  did  not  take  my  dog,  which  I  much  feared  he  would  do. 
Present  fired  at  the  lion  as  he  swam,  and  missed  him ;  both  my  barrels 
were  empty.  Before,  however,  the  lion  could  make  the  opposite  bank, 
I  had  one  loaded  without  patch,  and  just  as  his  feet  gained  the  ground 
I  made  a  fine  shot  at  his  neck,  and  turned  him  over  dead  on  the  spot. 
Present,  Carollus,  and  Adonis  then  swam  in  and  brought  him  through. 
We  landed  him  by  an  old  hippopotamus  footpath,  and,  the  day  being 
damp  and  cold,  we  kindled  a  fire,  beside  which  we  skinned  him.  While 
this  was  going  forward  I  had  a  painful  duty  to  perform,  viz.  to  load  one 
barrel,  and  blow  out  Eascality's  brains,  whom  the  lion  had  utterly 
disabled  in  his  after-quarters.  Thus  ended  this  protracted  and  all  but 
unsuccessful  hunt;  for  when  I  at  length  managed  to  shoot  him,  the  dogs 
were  quite  tired  of  it,  and,  the  reeds  being  green,  I  could  not  have  set 
them  on  fire  to  force  him  out. 

The  lion  proved  to  be  a  first-rate  one ;  he  was  in  the  prime  of  life, 
and  had  an  exquisitely  beautiful  coat  of  hair.  His  mane  was  not  very 
rank  ;  his  awful  teeth  were  quite  perfect,  a  thing  which  in  lions  of  his 
age  is  rather  unusual ;  and  he  had  the  finest  tuft  of  hair  on  the  end  of 
his  tail  that  I  had  ever  seen  in  a  lion.  In  the  chase  my  after-rider,  who 
fortunately  did  not  carry  my  rifle,  got  a  tremendous  capsize  from  bad 
riding,  a  common  occurrence  with  most  after-riders  who  have  been 
employed  in  my  service.     The  afternoon  was  spent  in  drying  the  wet 


332    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

mane  of  the  lion,  skinning  out  the  feet,  and  preserving  the  skin  with 
alum  and  arsenical  soap. 

On  the  27th  we  reached  the  junction  of  the  Mariqua  with  the  Limpopo, 
when  we  once  more  bade  farewell  to  the  latter,  and  held  up  the 
northern  bank  of  the  Mariqua.  This  fine  little  river  averages  here 
about  five  or  six  yards  in  width,  and  meanders  along  in  a  very  serpentine 
course  through  a  very  broad  open  vley,  its  banks  being  in  many  places 
destitute  of  cover,  excepting  reeds,  and  in  others  is  densely  clad  with 
groves  of  thorn  and  willow  trees,  etc.  Here  I  found  reitbuck,  which  do 
not  frequent  the  Limpopo  in  those  parts  which  I  have  visited.  The 
country  looked  fresh  and  green,  and  all  the  usual  varieties  of  game 
were  abundant.  Elephants  had  been  frequenting  the  district  some 
months  previously,  but  had  now  deserted  it.  About  fifty  miles  to  the 
south  and  east  a  very  bold  and  rocky  extensive  blue  mountain-chain 
towered  in  grand  relief  above  the  intervening  level  forest.  The  length 
of  this  mountain  chain  seemed  to  be  about  a  hundred  miles,  its  course 
about  north-east,  and  it  gradually  became  loftier  and  more  rugged 
towards  the  north-eastern  extremity.  I  believe  the  Limpopo  rises 
somewhere  to  the  east  of  this  chain,  and  I  felt  a  strong  desire  to  follow 
it  to  its  source,  but  under  existing  circumstances  this  measure  was  not 
advisable.  On  the  march  we  passed  a  small  village  of  Bakalahari,  which 
was  surrounded  with  heaps  of  bones  and  skulls  of  game. 

Next  day  we  marched  about  eight  miles  up  the  river,  and  outspanned 
in  a  wide  open  vley.  On  the  march  I  shot  one  sassay by,  and  wounded 
two  black  rhinoceroses.  In  the  afternoon  I  rode  up  the  edge  of  the 
river  with  Ruyter,  in  quest  of  reitbuck,  of  which  I  saw  several  small 
troops,  but  did  not  kill  any,  not  getting  a  chance  of  the  old  bucks, 
which  I  hunted  for  their  heads.  I  however,  shot  one  enormous  crocodile, 
which  we  discovered  fast  asleep  on  the  grassy  bank  of  the  river.  He 
got  two  balls,  one  in  the  head,  and  the  other  behind  the  shoulder,  yet 
nevertheless  in  the  struggles  of  death  he  managed  to  roll  into  the  water, 
and  disappeared.  I  was  extremely  surprised  to  see  so  enormous  a 
crocodile  in  so  small  a  stream  ;  his  length  was  considerably  greater  than 
the  width  of  the  river  at  the  spot  where  I  shot  him. 

Marching  again  at  sunrise,  and  I  and  Ruyter  rode  ahead  to  seek 
reitbuck.  I  detected  one  of  these  squatting  beside  the  river  to  shun 
observation,  and  I  shot  him  dead  on  the  spot.  He  proved  to  be  an  old 
buck,  but,  both  of  his  horns  being  broken  in  fighting,  I  did  not  keep 
the  head.  A  little  after  this,  two  packs  of  wild  dogs  kept  trotting  and 
cantering  slowly  along  before  us,  one  on  either  side  of  the  river  ;  we  had 
started  them  from  two  pallahs,  which  they  had  caught  and  were  con- 
suming. More  reitbuck  were  seen,  and  presently  an  old  buck,  carrying 
unusually  fine  horns,  started  up  before  us  in  company  with  four  does. 
By  taking  up  a  position  in  a  hollow  in  the  vley,  and  sending  Ruyter  to 
drive  them  towards  me,  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  succeed  in  bowling 
over  this  fine  old  buck,  which  proved  to  be  a  princely  specimen.  I  shot 
him  running,  and  broke  his  back. 

The  waggons  being  opposite  to  us,  we  crossed  the  river,  and  deposited 
the  head  on  my  cardell ;  and  having  proceeded  a  short  distance  farther 


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A    MONSTEB    CROCODILE.  333 

up,  we  discovered  the  fresh  spoor  of  an  immense  herd  of  elephants, 
consisting  mostly  of  old  bulls.  I  drew  up  my  waggons  on  a  peninsular 
well- wooded  spot,  and  proceeded  to  take  up  the  spoor.  These  elephants 
had  at  first  fed  for  many  hours  among  thorns  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
river,  and  then  marched  in  a  long  string  right  away  out  of  the  country. 
After  following  the  spoor  for  a  great  many  miles  I  became  annoyed, 
and  gave  it  up. 

On  the  31st,  as  I  was  riding  along  the  river's  bank,  about  two  miles 
below  the  spot  where  some  days  before  I  had  fired  at  a  large  crocodile, 
I  came  upon  a  similar  reptile  lying  asleep  on  the  opposite  side,  which  I 
shot  dead  on  the  spot,  putting  the  ball  through  the  spine  close  into  the 
back  of  the  head.  On  receiving  the  ball,  he  only  made  a  slight  con- 
vulsive movement,  and  then  remained  still  and  motionless  as  if  asleep, 
not  having  in  the  slightest  degree  altered  his  position  :  a  copious  stream 
of  blood  issued  from  the  wound,  and  coloured  the  shallow  water  in 
which  he  lay.  Having  crossed  the  river  at  a  drift  about  a  mile  below,  I 
rode  up  to  inspect  this  hideous  monster  of  the  river,  which,  to  my 
surprise,  I  found  to  be  the  same  one  at  which,  on  the  28th,  I  had  fired, 
and  as  I  suspposed  killed.  He  bore  the  marks  of  both  my  bullets,  one 
of  which  had  fractured  a  part  of  his  skull. 

This  crocodile  was  a  very  old  fellow,  and  a  fine  specimen,  its  length 
being  upwards  of  twelve  feet.  I  resolved,  therefore,  to  preserve  the 
skin,  and  with  this  intention,  in  the  forenoon,  I  marched  down  six  men, 
who  were  occupied  until  sundown  in  the  novel  work  of  flaying  the 
crocodile.  When,  however,  they  had  accomplished  their  undertaking, 
I  made  up  my  mind  that  there  was  no  room  in  the  waggons  for  the 
entire  skin,  and  determined  only  to  keep  the  head,  which  we  brought  to 
camp.  The  night  set  in  with  a  heavy  storm  of  wind,  accompanied  with 
rain.  Returning  from  skinning  the  crocodile  to  camp,  I  found  the  vley 
before  me  black  with  an  immense  herd  of  buffaloes,  two  of  which  I 
wounded,  but  did  not  follow  till  the  ensuing  day. 

A  few  days  after  this,  just  as  Swint  had  milked  the  cows,  and  was  driving 
them  from  the  wooded  peninsula  in  which  we  lay,  athwart  the  open 
ground,  to  graze  with  my  other  cattle  in  the  forest  beyond,  he  beheld 
four  majestic  lions  walk  slowly  across  the  vley,  a  few  hundred  yards 
below  my  camp,  and  disappear  over  the  river's  bank,  at  a  favourite 
drinking-place.  These  mighty  monarchs  of  the  waste  had  been  holding 
a  prolonged  repast  over  the  carcases  of  some  zebras  killed  by  Present, 
and  had  now  come  down  to  the  river  to  slake  their  thirst.  This  being 
reported,  I  instantly  saddled  up  two  horses,  and,  directing  my  boys  to 
lead  after  me  as  quickly  as  possible  my  small  remaining  pack  of  sore- 
footed  dogs,  I  rode  forth,  accompanied  by  Carey  carrying  a  spare  gun,  to 
give  battle  to  the  four  grim  lions.  As  I  rode  out  of  the  peninsula,  they 
showed  themselves  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and,  guessing  that  their 
first  move  would  be  a  disgraceful  retreat,  I  determined  to  ride  so  as  to 
make  them  think  that  I  had  not  observed  them,  until  I  should  be  able 
to  cut  off  their  retreat  from  the  river,  across  the  open  vley,  to  the 
endless  forest  beyond.  That  point  being  gained,  I  knew  that  they,  still 
doubtful  of  my  having  observed  them,  would  hold  their  ground  on  the 

21 


334  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

river's  bank  until  my  dogs  came  up,  when  I  could  more  advantageously 
make  the  attack. 

I  cantered  along,  holding  as  if  I  meant  to  pass  the  lions  at  a  distance 
of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  until  I  was  opposite  to  them,  when  I  altered  my 
course,  and  inclined  a  little  nearer.  The  lions  then  showed  symptoms  of 
uneasiness  ;  they  rose  to  their  feet,  and,  overhauling  us  for  half  a 
minute,  disappeared  over  the  bank.  They  reappeared,  however,  directly, 
a  little  farther  down ;  and  finding  that  their  present  position  was  bare, 
they  walked  majestically  along  the  top  of  the  bank  to  a  spot  a  few 
hundred  yards  lower,  where  the  bank  was  well  wooded.  Here  they 
seemed  half  inclined  to  await  my  attack ;  two  stretched  out  their 
massive  arms,  and  lay  down  on  the  grass,  and  the  other  two  sat  up  like 
dogs  upon  their  haunches.  Deeming  it  probable  that  when  my  dogs 
came  up  and  I  approached  they  would  still  retreat  and  make  a  bolt 
across  the  open  vley,  I  directed  Carey  to  canter  forward  and  take  up  the 
ground  in  the  centre  of  the  vley  about  four  hundred  yards  in  advance  ; 
whereby  the  lions  would  be  compelled  either  to  give  us  battle  or  swim, 
the  river,  which  although  narrow,  I  knew  they  would  be  very  reluctant 
to  do. 

I  now  sat  in  my  saddle,  anxiously  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  dogs  ; 
and  whilst  thus  momentarily  disengaged,  I  was  much  struck  with  the 
majestic  and  truly  appalling  appearance  which  these  four  noble  lions 
exhibited.  They  were  all  full-grown  immense  males  ;  and  I  felt,  I  must 
confess,  a  little  nervous,  and  very  uncertain  as  to  what  might  be  the 
issue  of  the  attack.  When  the  dogs  came  up  I  rode  right  in  towards 
the  lions.  They  sprang  to  their  feet,  and  trotted  slowly  down  along  the 
bank  of  the  river,  once  or  twice  halting  and  facing  about  for  half  a 
minute.  Immediately  below  them  there  was  a  small  determined  bend 
in  the  stream,  forming  a  sort  of  peninsula.  Into  this  bend  they  dis- 
appeared, and  next  moment  I  was  upon  them  with  my  dogs.  They  had 
taken  shelter  in  a  dense  angle  of  the  peninsula,  well  sheltered  by  high 
trees  and  reeds.  Into  this  retreat  the  dogs  at  once  boldly  followed 
them,  making  a  loud  barking,  which  was  instantly  followed  by  the 
terrible  voices  of  the  lions,  which  turned  about  and  charged  to  the  edge 
of  the  cover.  Next  moment,  however,  I  heard  them  plunge  into  the 
river,  when  I  sprang  from  my  horse,  and,  running  to  the  top  of  the 
bank,  I  saw  three  of  them  ascending  the  opposite  bank,  the  dogs 
following.  One  of  them  bounded  away  across  the  open  plain  at  top 
speed,  but  the  other  two,  finding  themselves  followed  by  the  dogs, 
immediately  turned  to  bay. 

It  was  now  my  turn,  so,  taking  them  coolly  right  and  left  with  my 
little  rifle,  I  made  the  most%  glorious  double  shot  that  a  sportsman's 
heart  could  desire,  disabling  them  both  in  the  shoulder  before  they  were 
even  aware  of  my  position.  Then  snatching  my  other  gun  from  Carey, 
who  that  moment  had  ridden  up  to  my  assistance,  I  finished  the  first 
lion  with  a  shot  about  the  heart,  and  brought  the  second  to  a  standstill 
by  disabling  him  in  his  hind  quarters.  He  quickly  crept  into  a  dense, 
wide,  dark  green  bush,  in  which  for  a  long  time  it  was  impossible  to 
obtain  a  glimpse  of  him.     At  length,  a  clod  of  earth  falling  near  his 


TWO    FINE    OLD    LIONS.  335 

hiding-place,  he  made  a  move  which  disclosed  to  me  his  position,  when 
I  finished  him  with  three  more  shots,  all  along  the  middle  of  his  back. 
Carey  swam  across  the  river  to  flog  off  the  dogs ;  and  when  these  came 
through  to  me,  I  beat  up  the  peninsula  in  quest  of  the  fourth  lion, 
which  had,  however,  made  off.  We  then  crossed  the  river  a  little  higher 
up,  and  proceeded  to  inspect  the  noble  prizes  I  had  won.  Both  lions 
were  well  up  in  their  years ;  I  kept  the  skin  and  skull  of  the  finest 
specimen,  and  only  the  nails  and  tail  of  the  other,  one  of  whose  canine 
teeth  was  worn  down  to  the  socket  with  caries,  which  seemed  to  have 
affected  his  general  condition. 

On  the  9th  it  rained  unceasingly  throughout  the  day,  converting  the 
rich  soil  on  which  we  were  encamped  into  one  mass  of  soft  sticky  clay. 
In  the  forenoon,  fearing  the  rain  would  continue  so  as  to  render  the 
vley  (through  which  we  must  pass  to  gain  the  firmer  ground)  impass- 
able, I  ordered  my  men  to  prepare  to  march,  and  leave  the  tent  with  its 
contents  standing,  the  point  which  I  wished  to  gain  being  distant  only 
about  five  hundred  yards.  When  the  oxen  were  inspanned,  however, 
and  we  attempted  to  move,  we  found  my  tackle,  which  was  old,  so  rotten 
from  the  effects  of  the  rain,  that  something  gave  way  at  every  strain. 
Owing  to  this  and  to  the  softness  of  the  vley,  we  laboured  on  till  sun- 
down, and  only  succeeded  in  bringing  one  waggon  to  its  destination,  the 
other  two  remaining  fast  in  the  mud  in  the  middle  of  the  vley.  Next 
morning,  luckily,  the  weather  eleared  up,  when  my  men  brought  over 
the  tent,  and  in  the  afternoon  the  other  two  waggons. 

We  followed  up  the  banks  of  the  river  for  several  days  with  the  usual 
allowance  of  sport.  On  the  16th  we  came  suddenly  upon  an  immense 
old  bull  muchocho  rolling  in  mud.  He  sprang  to  his  feet  immediately 
he  saw  me,  and,  charging  up  the  bank,  so  frightened  our  horses,  that 
before  I  could  get  my  rifle  from  my  after-rider  he  was  past  us.  I  then 
gave  him  chase ;  and  after  a  hard  gallop  of  about  a  mile  I  sprang  from 
my  horse  and  gave  him  a  good  shot  behind  the  shoulder.  At  this 
moment  a  cow  rhinoceros  of  the  same  species,  with  her  calf,  charged  out 
of  some  wait-a-bit  thorn  cover,  and  stood  right  in  my  path.  Observing 
that  she  carried  an  unusually  long  horn,  I  turned  my  attention  from 
the  bull  to  her  ;  and  after  a  very  long  and  severe  chase  I  dropped  her 
at  the  sixth  shot.  I  carried  one  of  my  rifles,  which  gave  me  much 
trouble,  that  not  being  the  tool  required  for  this  sort  of  work,  where 
quick  loading  is  indispensable. 

After  breakfast  I  sent  men  to  cut  off  the  head  of  this  rhinoceros,  and 
proceeded  with  Euyter  to  take  up  the  spoor  of  the  bull  wounded  in  the 
morning.  We  found  that  he  was  very  severely  hit,  and  having  followed 
the  spoor  for  about  a  mile  through  very  dense  thorn-cover,  he  suddenly 
rustled  out  of  the  bushes  close  ahead  of  us,  accompanied  by  a  whole  host 
of  rhinoceros  birds.  I  mounted  my  horse  and  gave  him  chase,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  he  had  received  four  severe  shots.  I  managed  to  turn  his 
course  towards  camp,  when  I  ceased  firing,  as  he  seemed  to  be  nearly 
done  up,  and  Euyter  and  I  rode  slowly  behind  him,  occasionally  shouting 
to  guide  his  course.  Presently,  however,  Chukuroo  ceased  taking 
any  notice  of  us,  and  held  leisurely  on  for  the  river,  into  a  shallow  part 


336     HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


of  which  he  walked,  and  after  panting  there  and  turning  about  for  a 
quarter  of.  an  hour  he  fell  over  and  expired.  This  was  a  remarkably 
fine  old  bull,  and  from  his  dentition  it  was  not  improbable  that  a 
hundred  summers  had  seen  him  roaming  a  peaceful  denizen  of  the  forest 
and  open  glades  along  the  fair  banks  of  the  secluded  Mariqua. 

During  our  march  on  the  19th  we  had  to  cross  a  range  of  very  rocky 
hills,  covered  with  large  loose  stones ;  and  all  hands  were  required  to 
be  actively  employed  for  about  an  hour  in  clearing  them  out  of  the  way 
to  permit  the  waggons  to  pass.  The  work  went  on  fast  and  furious, 
and  the  quantity  of  stones  cleared  was  immense.  We  had  now  reached 
the  spot  where  we  were  obliged  to  bid  adieu  to  the  Mariqua,  and  hold 
a  westerly  course  across  country  for  Sichely.  At  sundown  we  halted 
under  a  lofty  mountain,  the  highest  in  the  district,  called  "  Lynche  a 
Cheny,''  or  the  Monkey's  Mountain. 

Next  day  at  an  early  hour  I  rode  out  with  Ruyter  to  hunt ;  my  camp 
being  entirely  without  flesh,  and  we  having  been  rationed  upon  very 
tough  old  rhinoceros  for  several  days  past.  It  was  a  cloudy  morning, 
and  soon  after  starting  it  came  on  to  rain  heavily.  I  however  held  on, 
skirting  a  fine  well-wooded  range  of  mountains,  and  after  riding  several 
miles  I  shot  a  zebra.  Having  covered  the  carcase  well  over  with 
branches  to  protect  it  from  the  vultures,  I  returned  to  camp,  and,  in- 
spanning  my  waggons,  took  it  up  on  the  march.  We  continued  trekking 
on  until  sundown,  when  we  started  an  immense  herd  of  buffaloes,  into 
which  I  stalked  and  shot  a  huge  old  bull. 

Our  march  this  evening  was  through  the  most  beautiful  country  I 
had  ever  seen  in  Africa.  We  skirted  along  an  endless  range  of  well- 
wooded  stony  mountains  lying  on  our  left,  whilst  to  our  right  the  country  at 
first  sloped  gently  off,  and  then  stretched  away  into  a  level  green  forest 
(occasionally  interspersed  with  open  glades),  boundless  as  the  ocean. 
This  green  forest  was,  however,  relieved  in  one  direction  by  a  chain  of 
excessively  bold,  detached,  well-wooded,  rocky,  pyramidal  mountains, 
which  stood  forth  in  grand  relief.  In  advance  the  picture  was  bounded 
by  forest  and  mountain ;  one  bold  acclivity,  in  shape  a  dome, 
standing  prominent  among  its  fellows.  It  was  a  lovely  evening  :  the 
sky,  overcast  and  gloomy,  threw  an  interesting,  wild,  mysterious 
colouring  over  the  landscape.  I  gazed  forth  upon  the  romantic  scene 
before  me  with  intense  delight,  and  felt  melancholy  and  sorrowful  at 
passing  so  fleetingly  through  it,  and  I  could  not  help  shouting  out  as  I 
marched  along,  "  Where  is  the  coward  who  would  not  dare  to  die  for 
such  a  land  ? " 

In  the  morning  we  held  for  a  fountain  some  miles  ahead  in  a  gorge  in 
the  mountains.  As  we  approached  the  fountain,  and  were  passing  close 
in  under  a  steep  rocky  hill  side,  well  wooded  to  its  summit,  I  unexpect- 
edly beheld  a  lion  stealing  up  the  rocky  face,  and,  halting  behind  a  tree, 
he  stood  overhauling  us  for  some  minutes.  I  resolved  to  give  him 
battle,  and  seizing  my  rifle  marched  against  him,  followed  by  Carey 
carrying  a  spare  gun,  and  by  three  men  leading  my  dogs,  now  reduced 
to  eight.  When  we  got  close  in  to  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
we  found  ourselves  enveloped  in  dense  jiuigle,  which  extended  half  way 


DANGERS    OF    BUFFALO    HUNTING.       337 

to  its  summit,  and  entirely  obscured  from  our  eyes  objects  which  were 
quite  apparent  from  the  waggons.  I  slipped  my  dogs,  however,  which, 
after  snuffing  about,  took  right  up  the  steep  face  on  the  spoor  of  the 
lions,  for  there  was  a  troop  of  them — a  lion  and  three  lionesses. 

The  people  at  the  waggons  saw  the  chase  in  perfection.  When  the 
lions  observed  the  dogs  coming  on,  they  took  right  up,  and  three  of 
them  crossed  over  the  sky  ridge.  The  dogs,  however,  turned  one 
rattling  old  lioness,  which  came  rumbling  down  the  cover,  close  past  me. 
I  ran  to  meet  her,  and  she  came  to  bay  in  an  open  spot  near  the  base  of 
the  mountain,  whither  I  quickly  followed  ;  and  coming  up  within  thirty 
yards,  bowled  her  over  with  my  first  shot,  which  broke  her  back.  My 
second  entered  her  shoulder ;  and  fearing  that  she  might  hurt  any  of 
the  dogs,  as  she  still  evinced  signs  of  life,  I  finished  her  with  a  third  in 
the  breast.  The  bellies  of  all  the  four  lions  were  much  distended  by 
some  game  they  had  been  gorging,  no  doubt  a  buffalo,  as  a  large  herd 
started  out  of  the  jungle  immediately  under  the  spot  where  the  noble 
beasts  were  first  disturbed. 

Showers  of  rain  fell  every  hour  throughout  the  24th,  and  my  men 
were  employed  in  making  feldtschoens,  or  in  other  words  African 
brogues,  for  me.  These  shoes  were  worthy  of  a  sportsman,  being  light, 
yet  strong,  and  were  entirely  composed  of  the  skins  of  game  of  my 
shooting.  The  soles  were  made  of  either  buffalo  or  camelopard ;  the 
front  part  perhaps  of  koodoo,  or  hartebeest,  or  bushbuck  ;  and  the  back 
of  the  shoe  of  lion,  or  hysena,  or  sable  antelope  ;  while  the  rheimpy  or 
thread  with  which  the  whole  was  sewn  consisted  of  a  thin  strip  of  the 
skin  of  a  steinbok. 

On  the  forenoon  of  the  26th  I  rode  forth  to  hunt,  accompanied  by 
Ruyter ;  we  held  west,  skirting  the  wooded  stony  mountains.  The 
natives  had  here  many  years  before  waged  successful  war  with  elephants, 
four  of  whose  skulls  I  found.  Presently  I  came  across  two  sassaybys, 
one  of  which  I  knocked  over ;  but  while  I  was  loading  he  regained  his 
legs,  and  made  off.  We  crossed  a  level  stretch  of  forest,  holding  a 
northerly  course  for  an  opposite  range  of  green  well-wooded  hills  and 
valleys.  I  came  upon  a  troop  of  six  fine  old  bull  buffaloes,  into  which 
I  stalked,  and  wounded  one  princely  fellow  very  severely  behind  the 
shoulder,  bringing  blood  from  his  mouth  ;  he,  however,  made  off  with 
his  comrades,  and,  the  ground  being  very  rough,  we  failed  to  overtake 
him.  After  following  the  spoor  for  a  couple  of  miles  we  dropped  it,  as 
it  led  right  away  from  camp. 

Returning  from  this  chase,  we  had  an  adventure  with  another  old 
bull  buffalo,  which  shows  the  extreme  danger  of  hunting  buffaloes 
without  dogs.  We  started  him  in  a  green  hollow  among  the  hills,  and, 
his  course  inclining  for  camp,  I  gave  him  chase.  He  crossed  the  level 
broad  strath  and  made  for  the  opposite  densely  wooded  range  of 
mountains.  Along  the  base  of  these,  we  followed  him,  sometimes  in 
view,  sometimes  on  the  spoor,  keeping  the  old  fellow  at  a  pace  which 
made  him  pant.  At  length,  finding  himself  much  distressed,  he  had 
recourse  to  a  singular  stratagem.  Doubling  round  some  thick  bushes 
which  obscured  him  from  our  view,  he  found  himself  beside  a  small  pool 


338    HUNTING  AND   SPOKTING  ADVENTURES. 

of  rain-water,  just  deep  enough  to  cover  his  body ;  into  this  he  walked, 
and,  facing  about,  lay  gently  down  and  awaited  our  on-coming,  with 
nothing  but  his  old  grey  face  and  massive  horns  above  the  water,  and 
these  concealed  from  view  by  rank  overhanging  herbage. 

Our  attention  was  entirely  engrossed  with  the  spoor,  and  thus  we 
rode  boldly  on  until  within  a  few  feet  of  him,  when  springing  to  his  feet, 
he  made  a  desperate  charge  after  Ruyter,  uttering  a  low  stifled  roar 
peculiar  to  buffaloes  (somewhat  similiar  to  the  growl  of  a  lion),  and 
hurled  horse  and  rider  to  the  earth  with  fearful  violence.  His  horn  laid 
the  poor  horse's  haunch  open  to  the  bone,  making  the  most 
fearful  rugged  wound.  In  an  instant  Euyter  regained  his  feet,  and  ran 
for  his  life ;  which  the  buffalo  observing,  gave  chase,  but  most  fortu- 
nately came  down  with  a  tremendous  somersault  in  the  mud,  his  feet 
slipping  from  under  him  :  thus  the  Bushman  escaped  certain  destruction. 
The  buffalo  rose  much  discomfited,  and,  the  wounded  horse  first  catching 
his  eye,  he  went  a  second  time  after  him,  but  he  got  out  of  the  way. 
At  this  moment  I  managed  to  send  one  of  my  patent  pacificating  pills 
into  his  shoulder,  when  he  instantly  quitted  the  field  of  action,  and 
sought  shelter  in  the  dense  cover  on  the  mountain  side,  whither  I 
deemed  it  imprudent  to  follow  him.  During  my  stay  here  I  enjoyed  ex- 
cellent sport  with  buffaloes,  koodoos,  and  other  varieties  of  game. 

On  the  28th  we  marched  at  sunrise,  when  one  of  my  waggon-drivers 
chose  to  turn  his  waggon  too  short,  in  opposition  to  my  orders,  whereby 
it  was  very  nearly  upset,  for  which  I  flogged  him  with  a  jambok,  and 
then  knocked  him  down.  This  man's  name  was  Adonis :  he  was  a 
determined  old  sinner  on  whom  words  had  no  effect.  Our  course  lay 
through  a  wide,  well-wooded  strath,  beautifully  varied  with  open  glades. 
As  we  proceeded,  fresh  spoor  of  buffalo  and  camelopard  became  abun- 
dant, and  about  breakfast-time,  as  we  were  crossing  an  elevated  slope 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Ngotwani,  I  had  the  felicity  to  detect  a  magnificent 
herd  of  the  latter  browsing  in  the  middle  of  the  strath  about  half  a  mile 
to  our  left. 

As  I  enjoyed  very  little  sport  with  camelopard  either  in  this  or  in 
last  expedition,  my  time  and  attention  having  always  been  engrossed 
with  elephants,  I  resolved  to  avail  myself  of  this  opportunity,  and 
accordingly,  having  caught  a  couple  of  my  mares,  I  rode  for  them, 
accompanied  by  Booi  as  after-rider.  I  had  directed  my  men  to  outspan, 
and  my  intention  was,  if  possible,  to  hunt  one  of  the  camelopards  to 
my  camp,  but  in  this  I  failed.  On  disturbing  the  herd  they  separated 
into  two  divisions,  one  of  which  took  right  away  down  wind,  being  a 
tail-on-end  chase  from  my  camp  ;  the  finest  bull  went  with  this  division, 
and  him  I  followed.  After  a  sharp  burst  of  about  a  mile  I  headed  and 
laid  him  low  with  two  shots  behind  the  shoulder.  Having  cut  off  his 
tail,  we  were  returning  to  camp,  and  had  proceeded  about  half  way, 
when  we  came  upon  the  other  division  of  the  herd.  They  were  browsing 
quietly  in  company  with  a  large  herd  of  zebras ;  and  observing 
amongst  them  another  princely  old  bull,  nothing  short  of  the  one  I  had 
already  killed,  I  was  tempted  once  more  to  give  chase,  and,  directing 


SHOOTING    A    LION.  339 

Booi  to  go  home  with  the  tail,  I  spurred  my  little  mare,  and  dashed  after 
the  lofty  giraffe. 

In  vain  he  sought  the  thickest  depths  of  cover  which  the  strath 
afforded,  and  put  out  the  very  utmost  speed  which  he  could  muster.  I 
followed  close  in  his  wake,  and  after  a  hard  chase  of  about  a  mile  over 
very  rough  ground,  we  gained  a  piece  of  hard  level.  Here  I  pressed 
my  mare,  and,  getting  close  in  under  his  stern,  I  fired  at  the  gallop,  and 
sent  a  bullet  into  him,  and  then  passed  ;  in  doing  which  I  tried  to  fire  a 
second  shot,  but  my  gun  snapped.  I  had  now  headed  the  camelopard, 
so  he  altered  his  course  and  held  away  at  a  right  angle  across  the  level 
strath.  A  fresh  cap  was  soon  placed  upon  the  nipple,  when,  pressing 
my  mare,  I  once  more  rode  past  him.  In  passing  I  held  my  stock  to 
my  waist  and  fired  :  the  ball  entered  behind  the  shoulder  and  ended 
the  career  of  this  gigantic  and  exquisitely  beautiful  habitant  of  the 
forest.  Having  run  a  few  yards  farther,  his  lofty  frame  tottered  for  a 
moment,  when  he  came  down  with  a  crash  which  made  the  earth 
tremble. 

On  the  4th  of  December  we  inspanned  at  sunrise  and  marched  to  the 
Ngotwani,  which  we  crossed  after  an  hour  of  hard  work  in  making  a 
road ;  having  to  remove  some  immense  masses  of  rock,  to  cut  down  the 
banks  with  spade's,  and  to  throw  some  thorn-trees.  In  the  afternoon  I 
again  marched,  and  halted  at  sundown  within  a  few  miles  of  my  old 
spoor  near  the  Poort  or  Pass  of  God.  As  the  waggons  were  drawing 
up  for  the  night  a  borele  was  detected,  which  Present  and  Carey  stalked, 
and  got  within  thirty  yards,  and  then  both  fired  and  returned,  stating 
that  they  had  broken  his  shoulder. 

Accordingly,  on  the  following  morning,  I  proceeded  to  take  up  the 
spoor  of  the  wounded  borel6  of  the  preceding  evening,  accompanied  by 
Ruyter,  and  I  very  soon  found  that  he  was  very  little  the  worse  for  his 
wound.  The  spoor  led  me  for  several  miles  close  along  under  the 
mountain-range  to  my  right,  and  at  length  up  into  a  long  well-wooded 
basin  in  the  mountains.  Here  I  observed  that  two  lions,  having  detected 
the  blood,  were  spooring  up  the  borel6  ;  they  had  followed  him  up  and 
driven  him  away  from  his  lair,  and  had  then  lain  down  for  the  day. 

When  I  came  up  I  was  within  twenty  yards  of  the  lions  before  I  was 
aware  of  their  proximity.  Observing  me,  they  sprang  to  their  feet,  and, 
growling  sulkily,  trotted  up  the  mountain-side.  I  only  saw  one  of  them 
at  first,  and  ran  forward  for  a  shot.  Having  ascended  the  steep  a  short 
distance,  the  lion  halted  to  have  a  look,  giving  me  a  fine  broadside, 
when  I  shot  him  through  the  heart.  On  receiving  the  ball  he  bounded 
forward,  and  was  instantly  obscured  by  the  trees.  I  advanced  cautiously, 
and  next  moment  the  other  lion  sprang  up  with  a  growl,  and  marched 
with  an  air  of  most  consummate  independence  up  the  mountain-side. 
I  imagined  that  this  lion  was  the  one  I  had  fired  at,  and  I  sent  two  more 
shots  at  him,  both  of  which  were  too  high  ;  after  which  he  disappeared 
over  a  ridge  immediately  above. 

On  proceding  to  inspect  the  spot  where  the  lion  had  been  lying,  I 
found  that  there  were  two  beds,  consequently  that  there  must  have  been 
two  lions,  and  I  conjectured  that  I  had  killed  one  of  them.     In  case,  how- 


340   HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 


ever,  he  should  be  only  wounded,  I  deemed  it  prudent  to  ride  down  to 
the  waggons  which  were  then  passing  below  me,  to  obtain  some  dogs 
to  pioneer.  Having  procured  these,  I  and  Ruyter  returned  to  the  spot, 
and  found  the  lion  lying  dead  on  the  mountain-side.  We  then  proceeded 
to  skin  him,  and  returned  to  the  waggons  with  the  spoils.  The  other 
lion  had  decamped  ;  the  dogs  could  not  find  him.  Both  of  these  were 
first-rate  old  lions,  but  the  one  that  escaped  was  the  larger  of  the  two. 
In  the  afternoon  I  rode  on  to  Sichely's  kraal  on  the  Kouloubeng, 
having  directed  my  men  to  follow  with  the  waggons. 

On  arriving  at  the  station  I  found  that  Mr.  Livingstone  had  left  that 
morning  to  visit  a  tribe  to  the  east  of  the  Limpopo.  I  waited  upon 
Mrs.  Livingstone,  who  regaled  me  with  tea  and  bread  and  butter,  and 
gave  me  all  the  news.  I  remained  a  week  in  the  station,  and  on  the 
12th  I  inspanned.  At  sundown  we  halted  near  the  Pass  of  God, 
intending  to  hunt  sable  antelope,  having  seen  a  small  troop  of  them  in 
the  month  of  May  on  a  steep  mountain-side,  beneath  which  I  formed  my 
camp. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


The  Pass  of  God — Hunt  Sable  and  Roan  Antelope — Sesetabie — My  Cattle-losses  in 
five  Expeditions — My  Cattle  desperate  for  want  of  Water — Trading  with 
Mahura — Inspanning  young  Oxen — We  cross  the  "Vaal  River — The  Country 
densely  covered  with  Game — An  Ostrich's  Nest — Bloem  Vonteyn — Multitudes 
of  Antelope  Skeletons  cover  the  Plains — The  Great  Orange  River — We  are  de- 
tained by  the  Flood — Twenty-three  Men  drowned  in  attempting  to  cross — We 
have  to  take  the  Waggons  to  pieces — Arrival  at  Colesberg — Determine  to  re- 
visit Old  England  and  transport  my  collection  of  Trophies  thither. 

Next  morning  I  rode  through  the  Pass  of  God  and  held  west,  accom- 
panied by  two  after-riders.  I  rode  to  within  a  couple  of  miles  of  .the 
Kouloubeng,  and  returned  close  in  under  the  mountain-chain  to  the 
southward  of  the  pass,  having  bagged  a  buffalo,  a  zebra,  and  a  fine  old 
cock  ostrich.  On  the  14th,  having  breakfasted,  I  went  forth  on  foot, 
accompanied  by  Ruyter,  and  ascended  the  mountain  immediately  above 
my  camp  to  seek  for  sable  antelope.  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  discover 
the  spoor  of  three  bucks  on  a  piece  of  rocky  table-ground  on  the 
highest  summit  of  the  range  ;  and  soon  after  I  started  a  princely  old 
buck  from  his  lair.  He  was  lying  in  long  grass  in  a  sandy  spot  behind 
a  bush,  within  eighty  yards  of  me.  Starting  from  his  mountain-bed, 
this  gem  of  beauty  rattled  up  a  rocky  slope  beside  which  he  had  been 
lying,  and,  halting  for  a  moment,  looked  back  to  see  what  had  disturbed 
him,  when  I  sent  a  bullet  through  his  ribs,  and  as  he  disappeared  over 
the  ridge  I  lodged  another  in  his  vitals.  Having  loaded,  I  followed  on 
the  spoor,  and  soon  I  observed  him  within  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  of 
me,  standing  in  a  green  hollow  far  below,  whisking  his  tail  and  evidently 
severely  wounded. 

A  strong  breeze  which  was  then  blowing  was  against  me,  as  it  shook 


A    FINE    BUCK    ANTELOPE.  341 


a  young  tree  of  which  I  wished  to  avail  myself  for  a  rest.  I  nevertheless 
managed  to  make  a  fine  shot,  and  sent  a  bullet  through  the  centre  of  his 
shoulder,  bringing  him  down  on  his  face,  and  laming  him.  The  pota- 
quaine  disappeared  down  the  wooded  mountain-side  over  a  rocky  ridge, 
but  no  rude  fears  agitated  my  breast ;  I  had  lamed  him,  and  that  was 
enough  :  if  stalking  should  fail,  there  were  dogs  at  my  waggons  that 
could  very  soon  bring  him  to  bay.  I  did  not,  however,  wish  to  be  put 
to  the  trouble  of  sending  for  the  dogs,  and  continued  to  follow  on  his 
spoor  with  extreme  caution.  He  had  only  gone  a  short  distance  down 
the  hill  when  I  found  him  without  his  seeing  me,  and,  after  a  successful 
stalk,  I  finished  him  with  three  more  shots,  one  of  which  was  in  his 
stern.  This  was  a  most  splendid  specimen  of  this  very  rare  and  most 
lovely  antelope  ;  his  horns  were  enormous,  very  long,  rough,  and  perfect. 
Having  cut  off  the  head  for  stuffing,  and  gralloched  him,  we  covered  him 
with  many  green  boughs,  and  returned  to  camp,  whence  I  despatched  a 
party  for  the  vension  and  the  skin,  which  I  preserved. 

On  the  15th  I  was  occupied  during  the  morning  in  stuffing  the  head 
of  the  sable  antelope,  after  which  I  rode  forth  with  two  after-riders, 
and  holding  a  northerly  course  I  skirted  the  range  of  hills  beneath 
which  we  were  encamped.  I  soon  reached  a  gorge  in  the  hills,  through 
which  I  rode,  and  at  its  upper  extremity  I  discovered  springs  of  water 
forming  a  little  stream.  In  a  basin  in  the  hill-side  opposite  to  this  little 
stream,  I  observed  a  rattling  old  buck  roan  antelope,  or  bastard  gemsbok, 
standing  under  the  shade  of  some  young  trees,  the  sun  being  extremely 
powerful.  I  first  endeavoured  to  stalk  in  upon  him,  but,  finding  that 
the  ground  would  not  admit  of  that,  I  laid  a  plot  for  him,  and,  guessing 
from  the  lay  of  the  land  what  course  he  was  most  likely  to  take,  I 
instructed  Euyter  to  give  me  about  twenty  minutes  to  steal  forward, 
and  then  endeavour  to  move  him  towards  me.  Before,  however,  I  could 
gain  the  point  I  wished,  an  eddy  in  the  breeze  apprised  the  roan 
antelope  of  my  proximity,  when  he  instantly  started  to  pass  a  shoulder 
of  the  mountain  opposite  which  I  already  was.  As  I  was  screened  by 
some  thorn-trees,  I  made  a  run  to  save  the  day.  When  the  buck  halted, 
I  likewise  halted  ;  and  when  he  ran,  I  also  ran :  thus,  when  he  halted 
the  second  tine,  and  looked  down  to  see  what  had  disturbed  him,  I  had 
got  within  two  hundred  yards,  and  was  standing  in  position,  with  my 
rifle  steady  on  a  branch  of  a  thorn-tree.  Giving  it  six  inches  of  eleva- 
tion, I  fired,  and  the  bullet  caught  him  in  the  centre  of  the  hollow 
behind  the  shoulder,  and  rested  in  the  hide  on  his  opposite  side. 
Arching  his  back  and  bounding  high,  the  rock-loving  old  roan  antelope 
started  forward,  and  was  instantly  concealed  from  my  view  by  an  abrupt 
rocky  ridge.  Having  loaded,  I  inspected  the  spoor.  Large  blotches  of 
his  life-blood  stained  the  rocks,  and  on  clearing  the  ridge  over  which 
he  had  disappeared,  I  had  the  pleasure  to  find  "  Qualata  "  stretched  to 
rise  no  more.  This  antelope  carried  the  finest  head  I  had  ever  seen  ; 
the  horns  were  very  long,  fair  set,  immensely  stout,  and  rough.  I  cut 
off  the  head  for  stuffing,  and  rode  back  to  camp,  where  I  found  a  trader 
named  Jolly,  with  his  waggons,  who  wished  to  travel  along  with  me  to 
the  colony,  being  in  fear  of  the  rebel  Bores. 


342    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

Having  heard  from  Mr.  Livingstone  that  sable  antelopes  frequented 
the  rocky  mountains  about  the  sources  of  the  Kouloubeng,  I  resolved 
to  march  thither.  Early  on  the  18th  we  inspanned,  and  in  about  four 
hours  encamped  on  the  Kouloubeng,  at  a  spot  where,  three  years  before, 
Mr.  Livingstone  had  made  a  garden  to  cultivate  wheat,  which,  having 
sown,  he  left  to  the  birds,  having  never  returned  to  see  how  it  had 
thriven. 

In  the  morning  I  rode  forth  with  the  Bushman,  and,  holding  a  south- 
westerly course,  examined  the  mountain-ranges  and  several  fine  straths 
in  that  direction.  At  length  I  started  a  small  troop  of  zebras,  and  soon 
after  I  observed  a  fine  old  buck  roan  antelope,  which  got  my  wind. 
Returning  from  following  this  buck,  I  shot  a  steinbok  ;  this  shot  at  the 
steinbok  started  a  troop  of  seven  or  eight  old  bull  buffaloes,  which 
Ruyter  had  found,  from  the  summit  of  a  rocky  hillock.  I  followed, 
when  the  invariable  rhinoceros  birds  started  them,  and  I  galloped  on  in 
their  wake. 

Presently  they  halted  to  look  behind  them,  and  I  at  the  same  instant 
sprang  from  my  mare  and  lay  down  in  the  grass.  My  mare  commenced 
eating  the  grass  and  whisking  her  tail,  which  the  buffaloes  observing, 
and  fancying  that  she  was  some  species  of  game,  made  up  their  minds 
that  it  was  all  right,  and  coming  forward  a  few  steps  they  took  up  a 
position  under  a  wide  shady  tree,  not  evincing  any  further  signs  of  fear. 
Thus  I  was  enabled  to  take  my  time  and  select  the  finest  head  in  the 
troop.  After  about  twenty  minutes  spent  in  stuyding  the  set  of  the 
heads,  I  shot  one  princely  old  bull,  when  they  all  made  off.  Following 
on  their  spoor  for  a  short  distance,  I  found  my  bull  lying  dying  beneath 
a  thorn-tree,  and  his  comrades  standing  near  him.  As  the  old  bull  died, 
he  roared  loudly,  as  buffaloes  are  wont  to  do.  His  comrades  came 
forward  and  walked  round  him,  smelling  the  blood,  when  I  wounded 
two  more,  and  a  little  after  a  third,  which  the  natives  discovered  on  the 
following  day.  On  returning  to  camp  I  despatched  men  for  the  head  of 
the  buffalo  and  a  supply  of  meat. 

Next  day,  whilst  exploring  a  fine  mountainous  tract  of  country  to  the 
south-west,  I  suddenly  found  myself  in  my  old  waggon-spoor  of  '  45, 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  bold  gorge  in  the  mountains  in  which  my 
oxen  had  been  chased  by  lions.  In  this  fine  pass  two  streams  of  water 
meet  :  is  is  a  first-rate  district  for  game  when  the  country  has  not  been 
ransacked  by  Griqua  hunters.  I  immediately  found  the  spoor  of  a  troop 
of  buffaloes  ;  it  led  me  into  a  rich,  green,  and  well-wooded  glen  in  the 
hills,  through  which  one  of  the  afore-mentioned  streams  flowed.  The 
wind  was  as  foul  as  it  could  blow,  and  this  troop  got  my  wind. 
Returning  from  spooring  them,  however,  I  very  soon  fell  in  with 
another  troop,  reposing  under  dense  shade  in  the  same  glen.  I  crept  in 
within  thirty  yards  of  them,  and  there  lay  for  upwards  of  an  hour, 
endeavouring  to  select  the  finest  head.  The  buffalo  which  I  wanted 
was  lying  down,  his  body  screened  by  stout  thorn-branches.  I  might 
easily  have  shot  any  of  the  others  through  the  heart,  if  I  had  wished 
to  do  so.  One  by  one  they  rose,  stretched  themselves,  rubbed  their 
horns  upon  the  trees,  and  again  lay  down.      At  length  something, 


SCARCITY  OF  WATER.  343 

which  I  could  not  guess,  alarmed  them,  when  the  buffalo  I  wanted 
sprang  to  his  feet,  affording  me  a  certain  shot,  but  my  cap  disappointed 
me.  I  then  had  a  snap  shot  through  the  cover  with  my  left  barrel,  and 
sent  a  bullet  through  his  heart. 

The  herd  took  to  the  hills,  and,  by  an  extraordinary  chance,  I  again 
fell  in  with  them,  while  galloping  along,  half-way  to  my  camp.  Dis- 
mounting, I  ran  in  after  them,  and,  commanding  their  attention  by  a 
shrill  whistle,  the  herd  halted  and  faced  half  about,  when  I  dropped  a 
fine  old  cow  with  a  single  ball.  On  returning  to  camp  I  found  a-party 
of  Baquaines,  among  whom  was  a  brother  of  Sichely's.  These  men  in- 
formed me  that  the  Boers  had  been  making  many  inquiries  concerning 
me  :  and  that  it  was  their  intention  to  come  in  force  on  horseback,  and 
take  me  prisoner.  The  Bechuanas,  however,  further  stated  that  all  the 
horses  of  the  Boers  were  dead  with  the  distemper.  An  attack  from 
them  being,  however,  by  no  means  improbable,  I  deemed  it  prudent  to 
hold  myself  in  a  certain  degree  prepared,  and  resolved,  in  the  event  of 
Mr.  Edwards,  the  missionary  of  Bakatla,  thinking  the  road  by  the 
Mamouri  unsafe,  to  hold  a  more  westerly  course,  and  go  out  by  the 
country  of  the  Bawangketse.  Another  valuable  black  shooting-mare 
died  of  the  fell  distemper. 

My  losses  in  cattle  this  year  were  very  considerable.  Up  to  this  time 
fourteen  horses  and  fifteen  head  of  cattle  had  died ;  making  my  losses 
in  all  four  expeditions  into  the  far  interior  amount  to  forty-five  horses 
and  seventy  head  of  cattle,  the  value  of  these  being  at  least  £600.  I 
also  lost  about  seventy  of  my  dogs. 

We  continued  our  march  for  several  days  through  a  country  abound- 
ing in  different  kinds  of  game,  affording  good  sport ;  and  on  the  1st  of 
January,  1849,  I  rode  into  Bakatla,  where  I  found  Mr.  Edwards  and  his 
family  flourshing.  The  news  was,  that  the  Boers  had  met  the  Governor 
and  the  troops,  etc.,  at  a  place  called  Boom  Plaats,  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Orange  River,  and,  after  a  bloody  engagement  of  three  hours,  they 
had  been  defeated.  Mr.  Edwards  stated  that  since  this  engagement  the 
Boers  had  been  flocking  in  about  Mosega  in  great  numbers,  and  that 
they  were  anxious  to  get  possession  of  my  waggons.  He  therefore 
advised  me  strongly  not  to  proceed  by  my  old  line  of  march,  but  to  get 
out  of  the  country  with  all  speed,  taking  the  direct  road  across  the 
mountain  at  the  back  of  Bakatla.  My  prospects  of  doing  this,  however, 
were  not  heightened  by  an  attack  in  the  morning  of  fever  brought  on 
by  over  exertion  and  anxiety  of  mind. 

On  the  3rd  we  marched  at  dawn,  and,  after  proceeding  for  many  miles 
without  finding  water  at  the  different  spots  where  we  were  led  to  expect 
it,  we  had  the  pleasing  prospect  before  us  of  not  seeing  any  until 
the  following  day,  when  we  might  reach  the  Molopo.  The  sun's  heat 
was  most  terrffic,  and  my  poor  dogs  were  already  on  the  verge  of  going 
mad  ;  a  number  of  my  cattle  were  lame  from  hoof-sickness,  and  I  myself 
was  laid  up  with  a  rattling  fever.  In  this  state  of  things  I  halted  my 
waggons,  and  despatched  parties  in  different  directions  with  spades  to 
seek  for  water.  ^  Presently,  to  my  great  relief,  Jolly  rode  up,  and  said 
that  half  a  mile  in  advance  there  were  several  sheltered  holesx  containing 


344    HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

sufficient  rain-water  for  all  the  cattle ;  thither  we  accordingly  moved 
with  all  speed.  An  attack  from  the  Boers  being  not  at  all  improbable, 
I  ordered  all  my  guns  and  rifles  to  be  cleaned  and  loaded,  and  ammuni- 
tion to  be  placed  in  readiness  for  action.  I  had  also  four  good  muskets 
cleaned  and  loaded,  which  in  all  gave  me  twenty  shots  at  the  first 
round ;  these,  if  well  directed,  in  the  open  country,  I  calculated  would 
keep  off  a  whole  host  of  Boers. 

I  pushed  on  the  waggons  as  rapidly  as  I  could,  considering  that  the 
country  was  almost  destitute  of  water,  my  cattle  consequently  being  in 
a  desperate  condition ;  and  in  the  afternoon  of  the  13th  I  reached  the 
Hart  River,  where  I  outspanned  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  town 
or  kraal  of  the  Batlapis.  The  river  was  greatly  swollen  and  quite  im- 
passable, the  rain  having  been  very  heavy  in  certain  parts  of  the  country. 
Shortly  after  we  arrived  old  Mahura  with  a  party  made  his  appearance 
and  came  down  to  greet  me  across  the  river,  and  beg  for  some  coffee. 

In  the  morning,  by  Mahura's  request,  I  inspanned  and  crossed  the 
Hart  stream,  and  encamped  on  its  southern  bank.  In  the  course  of  the 
day  I  obtained  ten  karosses  in  barter  from  the  tribe,  and  one  very  good 
spotted  cat  as  a  present  from  the  chief.  I  also  obtained  a  large  sack  of 
Kaffir  corn  in  barter  for  beads,  and  milk  was  pressed  upon  us  to  any 
amount.  A  few  fine  oxen  were  offered  for  barter,  but  I  did  not  require 
them,  preferring  to  purchase  karosses.  Mahura  favoured  me  with  a 
visit  morning  and  evening,  remaining  at  the  waggons  about  three  hours 
on  each  occasion,  drinking  coffee  to  an  immense  extent,  and  pestering  me 
with  requests  for  various  articles  of  which  he  stood  in  need. 

On  the  16th  I  deemed  it  high  time  to  be  getting  under  way,  being 
quite  sick  of  the  presence  of  Mahura  and  his  retinue,  who  came  down  to 
my  waggons  and  remained  there  for  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  merely 
to  eat  and  drink  and  pester  me,  not  bringing  articles  of  value  for  barter, 
and  asking  absurdly  high  prices.  Accordingly  at  an  early  hour  I 
ordered  my  men  to  count  my  cattle  and  inspan,  and  in  about  an  hour 
we  were  on  the  move.  Old  Mahura  was  coming  down  to  drink  coffee, 
and  met  us  as  we  were  going  past  the  town.  He  was  evidently  vexed 
at  my  sudden  departure  ;  I  presented  him  with  some  coffee,  sugar,  and 
other  articles  equivalent  in  value  to  the  kaross  which  he  had  given  me, 
and  took  leave  of  him.  In  the  afternoon  we  marched  about  six  or  seven 
miles  nearer  to  the  Vaal,  and  halted  in  the  hollow  where  nearly  ten 
months  before  I  had  coursed  an  old  blue  wildebeest  with  dogs. 

Considerable  delay  was  caused  next  day  along  the  line  of  march  by 
young  oxen,  which  could  not  be  persuaded  to  trek,  notwithstanding  an 
unusual  application  of  both  whip  and  jambok.  About  four  hours  after 
the  sun  rose  we  reached  the  fount  beside  a  few  acres  of  bush,  where  we 
outspanned.  Our  march  was  across  boundless  open  country  ;  we  saw  a 
good  deal  of  game,  blue  and  black  wildebeest,  blesbok,  springbok,  and 
a  fine  troop  of  about  thirty  hartebeests  :  in  the  afternoon  I  again 
marched,  and  at  nightfall  we  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  fair  Vaal 
River.  It  was  considerably  swollen,  heavy  rains  having  lately  fallen ; 
but  being  upon  the  ebb,  I  deemed  it  well  not  to  take  the  drift  until  the 
morrow  ;  when,  having  arranged  two  trektows,  we  commenced  crossing 


ANTELOPE    HUNTING.  345 

the  Vaal,  one  waggon  at  a  time,  with  twenty  oxen,  and  in  about  two 
hours  my  three  heavily-laden  waggons  were  brought  through  in  safety. 

After  two  or  three  day's  march  we  came  in  sight  of  several  Boer 
encampments  on  both  sides  of  the  Yet  Eiver.  Four  Boers  paid  me  a 
visit  and  drank  coffee  with  me ;  I  questioned  them  concerning  the 
recent  engagement  between  the  rebels  and  the  English.  They  said  that 
nearly  all  the  latter  had  fallen  on  that  occasion  and  only  six  Boers,  and 
told  us  many  other  equally  extravagant  tales.  It  was  however  very 
clear  from  their  remarks  that  the  Boers  had  received  a  lesson  which 
they  would  not  soon  forget  of  the  utter  vanity  of  opposition  to  the 
English  Government. 

On  the  24th  our  morning's  march  brought  us  into  the  district  where 
in  the  commencement  of  last  winter  I  had  seen  such  overwhelming  swarms 
of  blesboks  :  Boers  were  encamped  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  I 
outspanned  beside  some  shady  thorn-trees  ;  lions'  spoor  was  seen  on  the 
line  of  march.  In  the  afternoon  I  lost  my  march,  being  obliged  to  halt 
soon  after  I  inspanned  to  correct  a  bush  of  the  iron-axletree  waggon, 
which  was  loose. 

The  25th  was  a  cloudy  morning,  with  a  cool  breeze.  Our  morning's 
march  brought  us  to  a  forsaken  Boer  encampment,  around  which  lay 
the  remains  of  the  different  varieties  of  game  frequenting  the  district. 
We  halted  for  breakfast  beside  several  acres  of  thorn-cover  on  the  bank 
of  the  river. 

As  we  were  breakfasting  on  the  24th  by  the  banks  of  the  river,  a 
trader  from  the  Pari  (a  district  near  Cape  Town),  of  French  extraction, 
passed  us  with  his  two  waggons  laden  with  merchandise.  He  took  a  cup 
of  tea  with  me  and  gave  me  the  news  of  the  colony.  Observing  the 
skull  of  an  old  bull  buffalo  fastened  on  one  of  my  traps,  he  asked  me  if 
it  was  the  head  of  an  elephant.  Another  Boer  had  asked  me  a  few  days 
before  if  a  crocodile's  head,  which  was  tied  up  at  the  back  of  Carollus's 
waggon,  belonged  to  an  elephant.  In  the  afternoon,  as  we  were 
inspanning,  we  were  visited  by  a  rebel  Boer  of  very  large  proportions. 
This  man  told  us  plainly  that  the  Boers  did  not  consider  themselves  as 
conquered, and  that  they  intended  to  try  it  on  again. 

We  had  now  reached  that  point  in  our  line  of  march  where  we  were 
to  take  leave  of  the  Yet  Eiver.  I  rode  ahead  of  the  waggons  to  hunt, 
and  after  proceeding  about  a  mile,  I  found  myself  out  of  the  country  of 
sweet  grass,  and  entering  upon  bare  and  boundless  open  plains,  thinly 
clad  with  sour  pasturage,  the  favourite  haunt  and  continual  residence 
of  innumerable  herds  of  black  wildebeest,  blesbok,  and  springbok.  As 
I  rode  on,  large  troops  of  these  excellent,  sport-yielding  antelopes  grati- 
fied my  eyes  in  every  direction.  I  had  been  long  away  from  them,  far, 
far  in  the  dense  forest  regions  of  the  far  interior,  and  now  I  gazed  once 
more  upon  them  with  a  lively  feeling  of  pleasure  and  intense  interest 
which  no  words  can  describe. 

When  the  sun  rose  next  morning  I  took  coffee,  and  then  rode  west 
with  two  after-riders,  in  the  hope  of  getting  some  blesbok-shooting.  I 
found  the  boundless  undulating  plains  thickly  covered  with  game, 
thousands  upon  thousands  chequering  the  landscape  far  as  the  eye  could 


346  HUNTING  AND  SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

strain  in  every  direction.  The  blesboks,  which  I  was  most  desirous  to 
obtain,  were  extremely  wary,  and  kept  pouring  on,  "on,  up  the  wind  in 
long-continued  streams  of  thousands,  so  swift  and  shy  that  it  was  im- 
possible to  get  within  six  hundred  yards  of  them,  or  even  by  any 
stratagem  to  waylay  them,  so  boundless  was  the  ground,  and  so 
cunningly  did  they  avoid  to  cross  our  track. 

I  returned  to  camp,  having  bagged  one  springbok  doe  and  one  old 
bull  wildebeest,  which  was  in  superb  condition.  Jolly  and  some  of  my 
people  had  been  out,  but  without  success. 

On  the  28th  I  rode  in  a  north-westerly  course,  and  gave  chase  to  a 
noble  herd  of  about  two  hundred  black  wildebeest.  These  being  very 
wild,  I  yached  them  on  the  Boer  principle,  and,  taking  a  double  family 
shot  at  about  three  hundred  yards,  when  the  dust  had  blown  past  one 
fine  bull  was  found  to  have  bitten  the  dust :  this  was  very  near  camp, 
so  I  despatched  Ruyter  for  men  and  a  pack-ox  to  bring  the  gnoo  to 
camp.  I  held  on  in  a  westerly  course,  and  found  the  game  extremely 
shy,  owing  to  the  high  wind. 

In  the  afternoon  I  inspanned  and  marched,  there  being  very  little 
grass  here  for  my  cattle,  and  danger  of  the  oxen  taking  a  horrible  and 
very  fatal  illness,  called  by  the  Boers  "  snot  sickness,"  which  cattle  are 
very  liable  to  from  pasturing  on  ground  frequented  by  black  wilde- 
beests. The  sky  to  the  north  and  west  looked  very  threatening,  and, 
before  we  had  proceeded  far,  black  masses  of  clouds  came  rolling  up 
towards  us,  and  vivid  flashes  of  forked  lightning,  accompanied  by 
appalling  peals  of  thunder,  proclaimed  the  approach  of  a  storm.  In  a 
few  minutes  it  was  upon  us,  the  rain  falling  in  torrents.  We  held  for 
a  rocky  coppice  or  hill,  beside  which  we  outspanned,  and  in  about  an 
hour  the  storm  had  passed  away  :  vast  herds  of  game  surrounded  us  on 
every  side. 

Next  day  we  marched,  the  country  being  very  heavy  for  the  bullocks, 
owing  to  the  rain  which  had  fallen.  I  held  across  country  for  a  range 
of  stony  hills,  dotted  over  with  dwarfish  trees  and  bushes,  on  which  I 
expected  to  find  sweet  grass  for  my  cattle.  On  my  way  thither  the 
plains  on  every  side  of  us  presented  the  most  lively  display  of  game, 
and  I  was  tempted  by  the  endless  streams  of  blesboks  to  halt  my 
waggons  for  a  minute  to  catch  and  saddle  steeds  and  give  them  chase. 
They  proved  extremely  shy,  and  in  about  four  hours  I  rode  to  seek  my 
waggons,  having  bagged  a  gnoo  and  a  brace  of  blesboks. 

While  following  the  game  one  of  my  after-riders  started  an  ostrich 
from  her  nest,  which  she  had  scooped  in  the  sand  ;  it  was  about  seven 
feet  in  diameter,  and  contained  thirty-four  fine  fresh  eggs.  I  left 
Ruyter  in  charge  of  the  nest,  the  eggs  being  in  danger  from  jackals  and 
vultures,  and  particularly  from  the  ostrich  herself,  who  would  return 
in  our  absence  and  break  every  one  of  them.  Having  reached  my 
camp,  I  despatched  two  men  with  leather  sacks  to  fetch  them. 

Next  morning  I  again  rode  forth  to  hunt  on  the  plains  below  my 
camp,  and  took  up  positions,  lying  on  my  breast  behind  the  anthills, 
while  Booi  and  Ruyter  moved  up  the  game  towards  me.  I  had  some 
exciting  sport,  the  wildebeests  several  times  coming  charging  madly 


ORANGE    RIVER    IN    FLOOD.  347 

down  upon  the  very  spot  where  I  lay  concealed.  About  midday  I  had 
bagged  two  old  bulls,  and  found  one  of  the  wounded  of  the  day  before  : 
he  was  still  warm,  and  was  in  first-rate  condition.  Several  thousand 
blesboks  came  pouring  up  wind  between  me  and  my  camp  as  I  was 
riding  home  :  these  had  probably  been  hunted  up  by  some  Boer  or 
Boers  to  leeward.  In  the  evening  I  again  rode  out,  and  had  the  game 
moved  toward  me,  when  I  shot  a  fourth  old  bull  wildebeest,  for  which 
I  despatched  men  with  a  pack-ox  by  moonlight,  having  left  Booi  in 
charge  of  the  venison. 

On  the  1st  of  February  we  marched,  and  reached  Bloem  Vonteyn  on 
the  3rd,  where  I  was  kindly  received  by  the  officers  of  the  45th  and 
Cape  Corps,  stationed  there.  Here  we  remained  a  day  or  two,  and  then 
trekked  on  through  a  most  desolate  country,  on  which,  together  with 
vast  herds  of  wildebeest,  blesbok,  and  springbok,  we  found  numbers  of 
skeletons  scattered  over  the  plains  on  all  sides.  This  great  mortality 
had  been  caused  either  by  famine  or  by  a  horrid  mangy  disease,  called 
by  the  Dutch  "  brunt  sickta,"  which  often  sweeps  off  whole  hosts  of  the 
plain-frequenting  game. 

On  the  17th  we  halted  the  waggons  at  Mr.  Fossey's  farm,  within  two 
miles  of  the  Great  Orange  River.  Mr.  Fossey  informed  me  that  the 
river  was  full,  and  that  he  did  not  expect  it  would  be  fordable  for  sev- 
eral months.  Norval's  Punt  had  been  smashed  when  the  troops  crossed 
over  to  fight  the  Boers  at  Boom  Plaats  some  months  before,  and  the 
new  one  constructed  in  the  colony  had  not  yet  arrived.  I  was  detained 
on  the  banks  of  this  stream,  much  against  my  will,  for  several  weeks ; 
but  at  length,  on  the  8th  of  March,  hearing  that  the  Boers  had  con- 
structed a  float  above  Alleman's  Drift,  I  inspanned  and  proceeded  down 
the  river  to  view  it.  The  float  was  rather  a  dangerous  affair — I  mean 
for  property — the  stream  being  very  rapid  and  deep.  It  was  cal- 
culated to  ferry  over  light  waggons,  but  heavily-laden  ones  required  to 
be  off-loaded.  At  sundown  I  had  taken  over  one  waggon,  and  a  span 
of  twelve  oxen,  which  I  ferried  across  in  two  trips,  taking  six  at  a  time. 

Next  morning  when  I  awoke  and  looked  to  the  river  I  found  that  it 
had  grown  greatly  during  the  night,  and  was  still  increasing  rapidly. 
Having  off-loaded  the  greater  part  of  the  cargo  of  old  Adonis's  waggon, 
I  managed  to  ferry  it  across  the  river,  having  narrowly  escaped  losing 
the  whole  in  the  middle  of  the  stream.  By  this  time  the  flood  had  in- 
creased so  much  that  we  deemed  it  dangerous  to  attempt  to  ferry  over 
anything  else,  and  we  prudently  resolved  to  await  the  ebbing  of  the 
river,  which  continued  to  grow  rapidly  the  whole  of  the  day.  In  the 
afternoon  I  was  obliged  to  inspan  the  waggon  which  I  had  brought 
through  on  the  preceding  day,  and  remove  it  to  a  more  elevated 
locality  ;  and  it  was  well  that  I  did  so,  for  before  morning  the  river  was 
running  strong  and  deep  on  the  ground  which  it  had  occupied.  I  en- 
tertained considerable  apprehension  for  my  waggons  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  as  they  were  now  standing  upon  an  island,  and  the 
flood  had  already  nearly  reached  to  their  wheels. 

The  flood  continued  to  increase  steadily  until  the  next  afternoon, 
when  it  seemed  to  have  reached  its  maximum,  and  about  sundown  it 


348    HUNTING  AND   SPORTING  ADVENTURES. 

was  evidently  upon  the  ebb.  During  the  whole  of  to-day  and  yesterday 
the  flood  presented  an  appearance  of  extreme  grandeur ;  large  blocks 
of  wood  and  trunks  of  forest-trees  were  constantly  sweeping  past  us, 
tossed  on  the  troubled  waters  on  their  seaward  course.  In  the  course 
of  the  afternoon  the  stout  new  cable  by  which  the  float  was  worked, 
and  which  stretched  across  the  river,  each  end  being  secured  to  a  rock- 
rifted  trunk  of  a  tree,  burst  asunder,  being  unequal  to  resist  the  force 
of  the  swollen  river. 

On  the  14th,  with  much  difficulty,  we  got  over  the  cable  by  which 
the  raft  was  worked,  and  the  Boers,  by  way  of  experiment,  loaded  her 
up  with  a  party  of  Bechuana  Caffres,  and  endeavoured  to  cross  the 
river.  There  was  a  small  boat  attached  to  the  float.  When  they  had 
got  about  half-way  across,  the  water  rose  partially  over  the  float,  when 
a  panic  came  over  both  the  Boers  and  Bechuanas,  and  a  rush  was  made 
into  the  little  boat.  A  capsize  was  the  consequence ;  and  at  the  same 
moment  the  rope  which  attached  the  boat  to  the  float  parted.  The 
unfortunate  men  were  then  swept  away  down  the  rapid  current ;  and 
of  twenty-seven  men  who  were  on  board  of  the  punt,  four  only  escaped. 
Two  of  those  who  were  drowned  were  Boers.  After  this  accident  I 
directed  my  men,  who  were  in  an  isolated  position  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  to  inspan  and  remove  down  to  Norval's  boat,  below  Alle- 
man's  Drift,  where  I  met  them  with  the  cap-tent  waggon  ;  and  at  sun- 
down next  day  we  had  safely  ferried  over  the  other  two  waggons,  and 
encamped  once  more  on  British  territory. 

The  ferrying  was  a  very  laborious  proceeding,  each  waggon  having  to 
be  off-loaded,  and  then  taken  to  pieces,  and  so  brought  over,  bit  by  bit ; 
the  oxen  and  horses,  etc.,  swam  the  river.  My  waggons  were  now  all 
safely  across,  so,  after  loading  them,  we  marched  on  the  18th  about 
ten  A.M.  At  sundown  we  entered  the  town  of  Colesberg,  and  drew  up 
opposite  to  the  old  barracks,  having  been  absent  exactly  twelve  months. 

As  my  waggons  advanced  into  the  town,  the  news  of  our  arrival 
spread  like  wildfire,  and  multitudes  both  of  men  and  good-looking  young 
women  rushed  to  see  the  old  elephant-hunter,  who  had  been  mourned 
as  dead.  We  were  soon  surrounded  by  nearly  one-half  of  the  popula- 
tion, who  mobbed  us  until  night  setting  in  dispersed  them  to  their  homes. 

My  friend  Mr.  Orpen,  being  blessed  by  nature  with  an  excellent  con- 
stitution, had  considerably  recovered  from  the  dreadful  wounds  which 
he  received  from  the  leopard  on  the  banks  of  the  Limpopo,  but  was  still, 
I  regret  to  say,  obliged  to  carry  his  arms  in  slings.  His  father,  the 
Rev.  Dr.  Orpen  of  Colesberg,  informed  me  that  he  had  great  hope  of 
restoring  his  arms  to  their  former  state,  even  at  that  late  period,  but  of 
this  I  could  not  help  being  very  doubtful. 

During  my  stay  in  Colesberg  I  had  much  pleasure  in  meeting  my 
friend,  Mr.  Oswell,  of  the  Honourable  East  India  Company's  Service. 
He  was  then  en  route  for  the  far  interior,  intending  to  penetrate  the 
Kalihari  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  and  visit  the  lake  of  boats.  This 
was  an  expedition  which  I  myself  had  often  thought  of  making,  but  a 
limited  finance,  and  my  fancy  for  collecting  objects  of  natural  history, 
led  me  to  incline  my  course  to  the  more  verdant  forests  of  the  east, 


LEAVE  FOE   HOME.  349 

where  I  deemed  I  could  more  certainly  first  collect,  and  then  export, 
the  precious  spoils  of  the  elephant.  Mr.  Oswell  being  in  want  of 
draught  oxen,  I  permitted  him  to  select  as  many  as  he  required  from 
my  extensive  stock,  with  which  he  shortly  set  out,  in  company  with 
Mr.  Murray,  on  his  interesting  journey  of  discovery.  I  was  occupied  in 
Colesberg  till  the  12th  of  April,  when  I  marched  to  "  Cuil  Vonteyn," 
a  farm  belonging  to  a  Mrs.  Van  Blerk,  which  I  reached  in  about  three 
hours ;  the  country  all  karroo,  herds  of  springboks  feeding  in  sight  of 
the  house.  Here  I  found  nine  heavily-laden  waggons  drawn  up,  which 
I  had  hired  and  laden  up  to  transport  my  collection  of  hunting  trophies 
to  the  sea. 

When  I  entered  Colesberg  I  had  almost  made  up  my  mind  to  make 
another  shooting  expedition  into  the  interior ;  but  a  combination  feof 
circumstances  induced  me  at  length  to  leave  Africa  for  a  season,  and 
re-visit  my  native  land.  I  felt  much  sorrow  and  reluctance  in  coming 
to  this  resolution ;  for  although  I  had  now  spent  the  greater  part  of 
five  seasons  in  hunting  in  the  far  interior  the  various  game  of  Southern 
Africa,  I  nevertheless  did  not  feel  in  the  slightest  degree  satiated  with 
the  sport  which  it  afforded.  On  the  contrary,  the  wild,  free,  healthy, 
roaming  life  of  a  hunter  had  grown  upon  me,  and  I  loved  it  more  and 
more.  I  could  not  help  confessing  to  myself,  however,  that  in  the  most 
laborious  yet  noble  pursuit  of  elephant-hunting  I  was  over-taxing  my 
frame  and  too  rapidly  wearing  down  my  constitution.  Moreover,  the 
time  required  to  reach  those  extremely  distant  lands  frequented  by  the 
elephant  was  so  great  that  it  consumed  nearly  one-half  of  the  season  in 
going  and  returning,  and  I  ever  found  that  my  dogs  and  horses  had  lost 
much  of  their  spirit  by  the  time  they  reached  those  very  remote  districts. 
My  nerves  and  constitution  were  considerably  shaken  by  the  power  of 
a  scorching  African  sun,  and  I  considered  that  a  voyage  to  England 
would  greatly  recruit  my  powers,  and  that  on  returning  I  should  renew 
my  pursuits  with  increased  zest. 

Having  thus  resolved  to  leave  the  colony,  I  directed  my  march 
towards  Port  Elizabeth,  by  way  of  Graff  Reinett,  crossing  the  bold 
mountain  range  of  Snewberg.  On  the  10th  of  May  I  reached  the  shores 
of  the  ocean,  which  Ruyter  and  others  of  my  followers,  now  beholding 
for  the  first  time,  gazed  upon  with  wonder  and  with  awe.  On  the  1 9th 
I  took  my  passage  for  old  England  in  the  bark  "  Augusta."  My  valu- 
able collection  of  trophies  and  my  Cape  waggon,  weighing  all  together 
upwards  of  thirty  tons,  were  then  carefully  shipped,  and  on  the  7th  of 
June  I  set  sail  (my  little  Bushman  accompanying  me)  for  my  native 
land,  after  a  sojourn  of  nearly  five  years  in  the  wild  hunting-grounds  of 
Southern  Africa. 


THE  END. 


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