FOOD
TMIRD
COITION
SPECIAL COLLECTIONS
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
FOOD AND
COOKERY
* ****** V ****** *
HAND BOOK FOR TEACHERS AND
PUPILS FOR USE IN COOKING
CLASSES AND DEMONSTRATIONS
THIRD REVISED
EDITION
BY
H. S. ANDERSON
INSTRUCTOR IN COOKING IN THE COLLEGE OF
MEDICAL EVANGELISTS AT LOMA LINDA, CALIF.
1915
THE COLLEGE PRESS
LOMA LINDA. CALIFORNIA
Copyright 1915 by The College Press
Loma Linda, California
PREFACE
' I 'HE author of the present work, having been for several
years employed as cook in many of the leading hotels
and clubs of some of the largest cities of the Middle West
and Pacific Coast, as well as being for the past five years
connected with the Loma Linda Sanitarium, is well prepared
to speak of the subject here discussed. His position as ex-
perimental cook and teacher of cooking in the Nurses' Train-
ing School has also shown the importance of getting out
something that may serve as a guide to teachers in present-
ing this subject before classes. Hence the present work
is largely designed to serve as a manual for those who may
be called upon to teach the subject in sanitariums and other
educational institutions. With this idea in view, a complete
list of twenty lessons, so arranged as to cover in an outline
way all the more important points of the subject, constitute
a valuable feature of the book.
The second edition having been all sold, and many warm
commendations received for it, the publishers have felt
encouraged to issue this thoroughly revised and enlarged
edition, with the hope that it may be of assistance to those
who are struggling to bring the teaching of this subject in
our sanitariums and elsewhere into full accord with sound
principles.
THE PUBLISHERS.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION Page
FOODS, THEIR USES IN THE BODY - 17
FOOD VALUES - 20
FOOD ECONOMY - 24
SUGGESTIVE COURSE OF LESSONS - 28
PREPARATION OF FOOD - 30
ESSENTIALS TO SUCCESS - - 31
FREE FATS 32
BREAD - 36
UNFERMENTED BATTER BREADS 37
UNFERMENTED DOUGH BREADS - 39
FERMENTED BREADS 41
CAKES - 100
CANNING - 115
COMBINATIONS, MENU-MAKING - 118
DESSERTS 90
FROSTINGS, FILLINGS - 103
GRAINS, NUT FOODS, ENTREES 56
GRAVIES AND SAUCES - 69
INVALID DIETARY 109
ICES AND ICE CREAM - 113
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 34
PIES, CRUSTS, ETC. - 96
SALADS AND DRESSINGS, VEGETABLE 83
SALADS AND SAUCES, FRUIT - 87
SANDWICHES 108
SOUPS - 50
TOASTS AND BREAKFAST DISHES 104
VEGETABLES - 71
JELLY MAKING - 117
SUGGESTIVE MENUS ------ 122
FOOD AND COOKERY
FOODS, THEIR USES IN THE BODY
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26 FOOD AND COOKERY
oysters at fifty cents per quart, yields only 184 units; while
twenty cents worth of wheat flour buys 9570 units, and in
the form of good, well-baked bread, ready for use, 4560
units. In the matter of protein, the legumes come first,
while most of the grains contain protein in a very liberal
proportion.
When the flesh of animals is used as food, there is great
danger of having an excess of proteid material. Besides
being of a stimulating character, it contains no carbohydrate
to offset the large per cent of proteid. One advantage in
using food of vegetable origin, is that in their growth vege-
tables secrete no poisons; whereas, in all animals the very
process of life consists in the breaking down of tissues and
the formation of various poisons. These poisons are in the
flesh when the animal is killed, and no amount of cooking
can remove them. Thus, by taking our food in the vege-
table form, we avoid burdening the system with such a
quantity of harmful substances, which must be eliminated
from the system only at a great sacrifice to the vital organs.
Again, it should be remembered that while animal products
all contain a share of the nutritive constituents necessary
for our existence, because the animal has taken sustenance
from the vegetable or mineral kingdoms, nevertheless, the
meats have had their electrical energy expended in physical
and mental dissipation by the animal itself, thereby leaving
but little generative quality for the consumer.
Many people seem to be under the impression that bodily
strength and health are dependent upon the use of flesh-
meats. A quotation again from "Ministry of Healing"
throws much light on this question, and points out in a
simple manner the advantage to be had in a simpfe and
natural diet above that of a more complex nature:
"It is a mistake to suppose that muscular strength
depends on the use of animal food. The needs of the system
can be better supplied, and more vigorous health can be
enjoyed, without its use. The grains, with fruits, nuts and
FOOD AND COOKERY 27
vegetables, contain all the nutritive properties necessary to
make good blood. These elements are not so well or so
fully supplied by a flesh diet. Had the use of flesh been
essential to health and strength, animal food would have
been included in the diet appointed to man in the beginning.
"When the use of flesh food is discontinued, there is often
a sense of weakness, a lack of vigor. Many urge this as
evidence that flesh food is essential; but it is because foods
of this class are stimulating because they fever the blood
and excite the nerves, that they are so missed. Some will
find it as difficult to leave off flesh-eating as it is for the
drunkard to give up his dram; but they will be the better
for the change.
"When flesh food is discarded, its place should be supplied
with a variety of grains, nuts, vegetables and fruits, that
will be both nourishing and appetizing." Page 316.
It would seem that the use of fieshmeats must be doubly
objectionable now, since disease in animals is so rapidly
increasing. Those who use flesh food little know what they
are eating. Tuberculosis, cancer and other fatal diseases
are communicated by the use of contaminated meat. True
reform always replaces an evil with something better.
So in the matter of diet, there is a turning away from the
artificial, from the second-hand to the real substance found
in nature's great storehouse the Creator's choice for us,
and that which is best suited to the building of good blood
and healthy tissues. There is a rhyme that beautifully
expresses this truth with its resultant tribute:
"Eat life from life's fresh growing garden,
Drink life from its myriad store,
Give life, and its flow,
E'er increasing, will go
Again to your open door."
Health reform, as any other true reform, is a matter of
education, and must be progressive; vital principles are
involved, in which are treasured up wisdom of the highest
order for every seeker after health.
28 FOOD AND COOKERY
Various societies are being formed throughout the States
for the purpose of studying the best means of providing for
the table, foods which do not harbor pestilence and disease,
and for studying the development of the culinary art in the
home in harmony with right principles. Thus it is plainly
seen that the minds of thinking people are being awakened
to see the importance of exercising sound judgment and good
common sense in the matter of the care and preservation of
health.
The following course of lessons is in no way intended as a
complete guide to hygienic cookery. Of the great variety of
ways in which the grains, fruits, nuts and vegetables may be
prepared into dishes that are healthful and nourishing, only
a few. of the most practical can be taken up in this course.
One of the main objects is to give some of the general princi-
ples essential to success in this work, followed by practical
illustrations of methods used.
For home and class work, this course consists of a series of
twenty lessons, two lessons each week, each session occu-
pying two hours. Eight pupils constitute a class, at which
time practical work is done. Due recognition is given to the
study of the nutritive value of foods, their digestibility,
combinations, etc. ; also menu-making and the general princi-
ples involved in the making of the same.
The following suggestive course of lessons, may be modi-
fied by the instructor according to convenience, to the occa-
sion, or to the length of time given to class periods. A pre-
vious study of the recipes and instructions following will help
to make the work very simple and easily understood when
the hour comes for class.
SUGGESTIVE COURSE OF LESSONS
LESSON 1. Cream of tomato soup, corn bread, nut and
potato pie, prune whip.
LESSON 2. Vegetable julienne soup, navy bean patties,
stewed beets, pumpkin pie.
FOOD AND COOKERY 29
LESSON 3. Savory lentil roast, brown sauce, fruit soup,
breaded tomato, whole-wheat sticks.
LESSON 4. Baked macaroni (family style), nut and potato
hash, date rolls, apple snow.
LESSON 5. Potato stew with egg dumplings, boiled onions,
cream of corn soup, cream rolls.
LESSON 6. Vegetable salads, dressings, garnitures.
LESSON 7. Scalloped eggplant, sago fruit mold, walnut
lentil patties, tomato sauce.
- LESSON 8. Invalid dietary gruels, eggnog, browned rice,
drinks, service, cream rice pudding.
LESSON 9. Baked dressing, macaroni and rice croquettes,
cream sauce, lemon pie.
LESSON 10. Vegetable gelatin orange, lemon, berry; fruit
salads, sauces.
LESSON 11. Spanish rice, hoe cake, creamed carrots, lemon
snow, custard sauce.
LESSON 12. Yeast breads, rolls, buns, etc., whole-wheat
puffs.
LESSON 13. Fresh fruit, canning, jelly, baked tomatoes,
fruit crisps.
LESSON 14. Family potato soup, stewed vegetable oyster,
scalloped potato, walnut timbales, bread pudding.
LESSON 15. Layer cake, jelly roll, vanilla wafers, frosting,
ornamenting.
LESSON 16. Steamed rice, cream noodles, loaf cake, Dutch
apple cake, lemon sauce.
LESSON 17. Corn nut pie, Duchess potato, potato cakes,
potato en surprise, spinach, hot slaw.
LESSON 18. Sterilized milk, yogurt, scalloped summer
squash, stuffed bell peppers, blanc mange, strawberry flum-
mery.
LESSON 19. String beans, asparagus hollandaise, scalloped
tomato, New England dinner, floating island.
LESSON 20. Cream of lettuce, macaroni with olives, scal-
loped beets, baked parsnips, prune pudding.
30 FOOD AND COOKERY
PREPARATION OF FOODS
The manner of preparing our food has much to do with our
usefulness in this life, and with the building of our charac-
ters. The health of the family may be safeguarded by a
careful well-ordered diet, and this subject should appeal to
every thinking mother. As a science, cooking is one of the
most essential in practical life, and more than this, it is one
of the fine arts. Our aim should not be simply to arrange
some concoction to appeal to a perverted appetite, without
any consideration of its digestive qualities. Our cooks need
education in making foods that nourish. Imperfect knowl-
edge of cooking leads to diseases of every kind; and both
children and adults suffer as a consequence.
The object sought in cooking is twofold: First, to render
the food more digestible; second, to develop its flavors, mak-
ing it more palatable and inviting. No indifference should be
manifested in the preparation of food. If the food eaten is
not relished, the body will not be so well nourished. Food
should be prepared in such a manner that it will be appetiz-
ing as well as nourishing.
In order to attain to this high ideal of cookery, true recog-
nition must be given to two fundamental principles of suc-
cessful cookery, which are simplicity and appetizing serving:
First, aim to preserve or develop the natural flavors of the
food under hand (do not cover them up) ; secondly, aim to
satisfy the sense of sight and the sense of smell, as they have
a direct bearing upon the digestion. Foods that are pleasing
to the sense of sight and to the sense of smell, stimulate a
liberal flow of digestive juices, while disagreeable sights and
odors hinder the same.
A glance at Plate I will show the foods which contain the
highest per cent of nutritive value. Vegetables contain a
small amount of nutriment. They are valuable, however,
for their flavors and for the large quantity of organic fluid
and mineral matter which they contain. Combined with
FOOD AND COOKERY 31
grains and nuts, they furnish the needed bulk to the food.
The grains are a highly nutritious food, and with nuts and
fruit, make a perfect and ideal diet.
ESSENTIALS TO SUCCESS
The prerequisite to success in this work is similar to that
in any other kind of work viz., "Plan, then work your
plan." Take the preparation of the first recipe given for
whole-wheat puffs, for an example.
The first step to be taken is to see that the fire is built in
time, so the oven will be at the proper temperature when the
batter is ready. Use only heavy iron gem-pans, which should
be put in the oven to heat while the batter is in preparation.
Have all the ingredients measured and the needed utensils
all at hand, before starting to combine the articles for bread.
This is very essential in all baking; especially in making
aerated breads, cakes, etc.
Another point that needs to be emphasized is the need of
accurate measurements. There are some simple things which
an experienced cook can make without taking the trouble to
measure, but how of ten we hear the remark made of "good
luck" or "bad luck" with a recipe. Now, there is no such
thing as "luck," for the simple reason that every effect has
its cause, and this is as true in cooking as in other kinds of
work. If we have a good recipe and follow it exactly, using
exact measurements, there is no reason why we should not
get the same results each time.
The ordinary kitchen cup, holding one-half pint, with
divisions indicating the half, third and fourth parts of a cup-
ful, is generally taken as the standard. Unless otherwise
stated, a cup, tablespoon or teaspoon of liquid or dry mater-
ials means a measure that is ' 'level full." In dry measure
this is best accomplished by filling the measure full and run-
ning the blade of a knife over the top with the edge outward
to make it level. Care should be taken not to pack the
ingredients: for this reason, weighing is always considered
the safest, although not always as convenient as measuring.
32 FOOD AND COOKERY
It might be well to state here that there are many measur-
ing cups on the market, sold as one-half-pint cups, that hold
quite a little more than that amount. Care should be exer-
cised in getting a cup measure which holds one-forth of a
quart. If a larger one is used, allowance must be made.
As a guide in measuring, the following table will be help-
ful, and may be followed with good results:
3 teaspoons - equal 1 tablespoon.
2 tablespoons of sugar or liquid equal 1 ounce.
16 tablespoons - equal 1 cup.
4 cups - equal 1 quart.
4 cups flour - - equal 1 pound.
2 cups sugar and most liquids equal 1 pound.
10 eggs - equal 1 pint.
9 whites - - equal 1 cup.
12 yolks (large) - equal 1 cup.
FREE FATS
The question of the use of "free fats" in cooking should
receive the most careful attention. Foods that are deficient
in fat usually require the addition of some kind of fat to
make them palatable, but there is a great difference between
supplying this lack by a moderate and sensible use of the
same, and that of having the food "soaked in grease." The
following instruction on the use of free fats in cooking, by a
physician of long practical experience, gives some good
reasons why rich, greasy and fried foods should be avoided,
and their place supplied by dishes, the preparation of which
has been governed by temperance, even in the use of nature's
good things:
"Fats are divided into two forms, free fats and emulsified
fats. Examples of free fat are butter and oils, both animal
and vegetable. Examples of emulsified fats are found in
nearly all vegetables, especially in nuts and olives, and in
milk and cream.
"Emulsified fats are in proper form to take into the body
as food, while free fats have to be emulsified in the alimen-
tary canal in order to be assimilated. The less free fat,
FOOD AND COOKERY 33
therefore, that is taken in food, the better for the digestive
organs. Free fats not only require emulsifying in the intes-
tines, but they prevent the action of the digestive juices
upon the other food elements, such as starch and albumen,
and so hinder the digestive processes. This is especially true
of fried foods, where each part of the food is surrounded by
a layer of fat, thus keeping the digestive juices from acting
on the other food elements."
Whenever oil is called for in a recipe, unless otherwise
stated, the refined cottonseed oil, crisco or kaola is generally
used.
The accompanying recipe for "vegetable butter" is now
being used for cooking, and also for table use. The preva-
lence of tuberculosis in dairy herds from which the public milk
supply is derived, has encouraged many to try an article
which is more free from the germs of disease.
This fat being in a semi-emulsified form, renders it easily
digested when eaten cold. Evidence of its emulsion is shown
in the fact that the butter dish after using may be rinsed
out in cold water.
This butter does not return again to its original consistency
in cooking as one would suppose; that is, it does not separ-
ate if kept covered, unless superheated. If kept covered, it
does not "melt" in hot weather, and is less greasy in cooked
food than dairy butter, and when mixed with a food that is
done, as for instance, if added to a soup that is done, it should
be whipped up with some of the hot liquid, otherwise it will
float on top in one piece.
In making a roux for soup or for cream sauce, or choux
paste for patties and croquettes, the vegetable - butter can
be used in the same manner and in the same proportion
as dairy butter. The recipes in this book have been so
arranged that whenever butter is called for, either vegetable
or dairy butter can be used as desired. Nothing but the
best cottonseed oil obtainable should be used.
34 FOOD AND COOKERY
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES
1. Vegetable Butter
1 egff. 1 quart bottle salad oil (refined cottonseed oil).
1 teaspoon lemon juice. 2 teaspoons salt (level).
Break the egg into a round-bottomed bowl and beat fairly
well with Dover egg-beater; then pour in the oil gradually,
beating meanwhile, adding the oil no faster than it can be
taken up by the egg while beating. When half of the oil
has been used, add the salt and lemon juice, then add the
balance of the oil in like manner. Finish by beating thor-
oughly, then put into a glass jar or bowl with cover.
By keeping the butter covered when not using, it will keep
sweet and not separate for ten days or more. Do not put in
ice box; for after it has been chilled and then gets warm, it
may separate. The only precaution is to exclude the air,
then it will keep in hot weather on the pantry shelf. When
eggs are not too high priced, an extra yolk added to the
same amount will thin it a very little, and will add much to
the color and flavor of the butter. The above contains about
three and one-half cups of oil. A few drops of dandelion
butter coloring, a pure vegetable extract, will make this
butter look just like dairy butter, except it will not be so
firm.
2. Yogurt
Yogurt tablets contain the bacillus Bulgaricus and the
newly discovered germ, gluco-bacteria, which work together
in combating disease-producing germs in the colon. These
beneficent germs grow actively in milk at the temperature of
the body, but grow much more rapidly at a temperature of
about 115 degrees.
In making buttermilk with these acid-forming ferments, it
is necessary first of all to kill the other germs which are
always found in milk. This is why it is necessary to sterilize
the milk before making yogurt. Then again, yogurt tablets
contain the active ferment in a latent form; thus it takes a
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 35
few hours for them to develop actively. For rapid growth,
it is necessary that the temperature of the milk should be
maintained at about 115 degrees. At a lower temperature
the bacillus Bulgaricus grows very slowly, and when below
98 degrees it ceases to grow.
Many fail in the attempt to make yogurt buttermilk
because of their ignorance of the fact that this milk ferment
requires a much higher temperature for growth than do the
ordinary milk-souring ferments. Success in making good
yogurt depends on closely observing the above principles,
and if these precautions are heeded in the recipe following,
the results will be very satisfactory:
Starter: Heat one pint of milk to boiling point, then set
into a pan of cold water to cool until it registers 115 degrees.
Dissolve four yogurt tablets in a little cold milk, and add to
the warm milk and mix well; then wrap well over top, and
set in a warm place near a pail of hot water, or on top of
same for from four to six hours, the object being not to let
the temperature fall lower than 105 degrees and never below
98 degrees. As soon as it gets thick, set it in a cold place,
and in tw r enty-four hours or more you have your starter. It
is of no account unless it has thickened. This starter will
keep for days, but it is not good to drink, and it is not neces-
sary to keep this starter after the first yogurt is made.
Yogurt: Heat one quart of milk to boiling point, let cool
to 115 degrees, same as above, then add three teaspoons of
the yogurt starter. Set away in a warm place well covered
as above for about six hours, until it has thickened. Then
set in a cold place. When cold, beat it with an egg whip
until smooth, and it is ready to drink. This should keep
sweet for two or three days. The next time it is made, use
this yogurt for starter, that is, three teaspoons yogurt to the
quart of milk.
3. Sterilized Milk
Milk should not be boiled. Procure a thermometer at a
hardware store and heat the milk in a double boiler until the
36 FOOD AND COOKERY
thermometer registers 160 degrees, and not over 180 degrees.
Keep the milk at that temperature for thirty minutes; then
remove the inner part of the double boiler and set into a pan
of cold water to cool. In this way the milk is not chemically
changed, as in boiling, and there is less danger of contract-
ing disease than when used fresh.
4. Table Butter
Another good substitute for dairy butter is found 1 by the
use of the following:
2 cups kaola (cocoanut butter), or crisco. 3 teaspoons salt (level).
3 tablespoons carrot juice.
Grate one medium sized carrot after being scraped, put
into cloth and express the juice. Mix the ingredients with
heavy spoon, same as dairy butter; and put in ice box until
it becomes firm.
BREAD
Bread is the most important article of diet, and deserves
more attention than it receives. Considering the conveni-
ences which exist everywhere and the wide-spread knowl-
edge of breadmaking, it seems unnecessary and wrong to
find poor bread on the table. Home-made bread requires
care and attention; and then you have the real staff of life.
Breads are divided into two classes: 1. Unfermented
made light by the introduction of air into the dough or
batter; 2. Fermented made light by a ferment, yeast be-
ing usually employed. Space will not permit us to speak of
the ill effects following the use of bicarbonate of soda and
baking-powders in breadmaking; suffice it to say that they
are harmful and unnecessary. "Soda causes inflammation
of the stomach, and often poisons the entire system." Air
may be incorporated into a batter by beating. The use of
eggs will aid in the process; because the white of egg, on
account of its viscous nature, readily catches air and helps
convey it into the batter. The following recipe for whole-
wheat puffs will help to illustrate these principles:
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 37
UNFERMENTED BATTER BREADS
5. Whole-wheat Puffs
\Vz cups pastry flour, measured after being sifted once.
V2 cup whole-wheat flour. 1V cups milk. 1 teaspoon salt.
3 eggs, separated.
Put the white flour and salt into mixing bowl, add the
whole-wheat flour unsifted. Separate the eggs, add the
milk and yolks to the flour, and stir until smooth with a wire
batter whip. Beat the whites stiff, pour the batter gradu-
ally into the beaten whites, folding it in by running a batter
whip from the edge or side of the bowl down through the
center and lifting it up so the batter will drop off into the
bowl; repeat until it is thoroughly mixed, but do not stir.
Remove the irons from the oven and set them on the edge of
the stove; rub them with an oiled cloth or brush to prevent
sticking. Pour the batter from a pitcher into the molds,
filling them just barely full. Bake in a moderately hot oven
twenty to thirty minutes. Two dozen puffs.
A few dried currants or seedless raisins, washed and dried
in a towel, may be sprinkled into each mold just before put-
ting them into the oven, if desired.
6. Corn Bread
1 cup cornmeal, 2 tablespoons flour. 1 tablespoon sugar.
1 teaspoon salt. 1 tablespoon crisco.
1 cup boiling water. 2 eggs.
Sift all the dry materials together into mixing bowl;
sprinkle the crisco over meal; then pour the cup of boiling
water in a slow stream onto the meal, stirring with a spoon
as the water is being poured in. If these directions are
followed, the meal will be scalded just enough to take up
the cup of water, and will not be soft, neither sticky. If
too thick, a tablespoon of cold water may be added. It
should be so thick that it will pile lightly when dropped
from a spoon.
Beat the eggs separately, fold the yolks into the stiffly
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
38 FOOD AND COOKERY
beaten whites, pour the cornmeal batter into the eggs, fold-
ing it in with a batter whip, and with a large spoon remove
from the bottom or sides any cornmeal adhering to it. Mix
it lightly, yet thoroughly, and pour it into an oiled baking-
pan, having the batter about one or one and one-half inches
deep. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about twenty
minutes or more.
7. Hoe Cake
1 cup cornmeal. 2 tablespoons flour. 1 tablespoon sugar.
1 teaspoon salt. 1 cup milk. 2 eggs, separated.
Sift all the dry materials together into mixing bowl. Heat
the milk in a sauce-pan, and when boiling hot, pour in a
slow stream over the meal, stirring as it is being poured in,
until the right thickness is reached (as it usually requires a
scant cup of milk to make a smooth thick batter) , so it will
pile nicely when dropped from spoon. If the batter is too
thin, the cakes will spread when put on baking sheet, and
will burn easily.
Beat the eggs separately, fold the yolks into the stiffly
beaten whites, then pour on the scalded meal, folding it into
the eggs with a batter whip, then from the side of a large
spoon drop it onto an oiled baking sheet in oblong shapes and
bake on the top grate in a hot oven until a nice brown.
By using one-fourth cup of cream, or its equivalent one
tablespoon of oil or butter, only one egg need be used.
8. Hot Cakes
% cup coarse zwieback crumbs. 3 tablespoons flour.
V4 teaspoon salt. 1 cup warm milk. 2 eggs.
Heat the milk to about 115 degrees. Mix all the dry
ingredients well, and pour the milk over them, and let stand
ten minutes. Separate the eggs; beat the yolks, and stir
them into the crumb mixture. Beat the whites stiff; fold
the crumb mixture into the stiffly beaten whites, and bake
on an oiled soapstone griddle.
9. Corn Cakes
Take the mixture for hoe cake, and bake the same as the
above recipe.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 39
UNFERMENTED DOUGH BREADS
The earliest forms of bread were "unleavened breads."
This term has been applied to hard breads, such as the
"passover cakes" of the Israelites, and other breads in the
form of thin cakes, sticks, etc. These hard breads are
without doubt the most wholesome, because they encourage
thorough mastication; and being free from any chemical or
ferment, they are very easily digested in the stomach.
By dropping the following sticks or rolls into boiling
water, and let them remain a few minutes until they come
to the surface, then skim them out and bake as usual, it
greatly improves their flavor. It also covers the entire sur-
face with a glaze which gives them a very attractive appear-
ance.
10. Cream Rolls
2 cups pastry flour. Va cup rich cream.
Y2 teaspoon salt. V cup water.
Sift the flour before measuring. Put the flour and salt
into sifter and sift again into mixing bowl. Add the water
to the cream and mix well; then pour the wetting onto the
flour in a slow stream, stirring the flour quickly so as to get
the moisture evenly blended. Work it into a dough for a
few minutes on a slightly floured board. Roll out to about
one-third inch in thickness, and cut into long strips about
one-third inch wide. Roll them on a board and cut them
into two and one-half- to three-inch lengths. Lay them in
a baking-pan, leaving a little space between them, and bake
in a medium oven until well done and a light brown.
11. Whole-wheat Sticks
1 cup sifted pastry flour. Vz cup whole-wheat flour.
2 teaspoons sugar. Vz teaspoon salt.
\Vz tablespoons oil. Vs cup cold water.
Put the flour, sugar and salt into bowl, add the oil; rub the
flour between the hands to distribute the oil evenly; then add
the water and mix as for cream rolls; knead on a board for
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
40 FOOD AND COOKERY
a minute and roll out into one-third inch in thickness. Cut
it with a dull knife into long strips about one-third inch
wide, then cut crosswise into sticks about three inches in
length. Bake in a medium oven until well done and a light
brown color.
12. Fruit Crisps
1% cups sifted pastry flour. 3 tablespoons sugar.
^2 teaspoon salt. 2M> tablespoons oil. H cup water.
-.-, cup ground sultana raisins or figs.
Sift the flour, sugar and salt into a mixing bowl; add the
oil, and rub it well into the flour; add the water, and mix as
for whole-wheat sticks. Roll it out into a long thin sheet
as for pie-crust. Have the raisins or figs previously washed
and dried in a clean towel; then put through a fine mill, lay
on a well-floured board, and roll out in a thin sheet so as to
cover half of the dough; recover with the other half, and roll
out quite thin, so it will be pressed well together. Cut it
into squares, crescents or diamond shapes, prick them through
with a fork, and bake in a very quick oven. Fruit sugars
burn at a low degree of heat, so the crisps should bake only
until the crust is baked. If the fruit is allowed to cook, it
will harden.
13. Date Rolls
Make pastry from above recipe. Roll out to one-eighth
inch thickness, cut in strips two and one-half inches wide,
moisten back edge of strip of pastry, place stoned dates end
to end in middle of strip, fold up front edge of pastry, then
roll over until the back edge meets the front, and cut in
three-inch lengths. Bake in moderate oven until light brown.
14. Cocoanut Crisps
1 cup desiccated cocoanut. 1 cup flour.
1 tablespoon sugar. a little water.
Roll and sift the cocoanut before measuring, put all
ingredients together, add water a little at a time, to make
very stiff dough. Roll with as little flour as possible until
very thin, cut in desired shapes, and bake in quick oven.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 41
15. Walnut Sticks
\V-2 cups sifted pastry flour. Ys cup whole-wheat flour.
% cup chopped walnut meats. 1 tablespoon sugar.
iVz tablespoons oil. Yz teaspoon salt. % cup water.
Sift the flour, sugar and salt into a mixing bowl, add the
oil and the nut meats, mix as for whole-wheat sticks, and
bake in a medium oven until they are about crisp and a very
light brown color.
FERMENTED BREADS
Weight for weight, bread must be considered one of the
most nutritious of foods. The fact that more than three-
fifths of it consists of solid nutriment and less than two-fifths
of water, gives it a special place in the list of foods, and
there is no animal food and but few cooked vegetable foods
that can be compared with it.
In the study of the chemical composition of bread, we find
that two-thirds of the volume of a good loaf of bread is made
up of gas, and of the solid part, less than forty per cent
consists of water. Of the chemical constituents necessary
for proper nutrition, bread yields a large proportion of
carbohydrates, a liberal amount of proteid and mineral matter,
and a small amount of fat, making it one of the most
nutritious and well-balanced articles of diet.
"The common use of superfine white flour in breadmaking
is neither healthful nor economical." While the white-flour
products have a greater total nutritive value, they are really
an impoverished food; for in rejecting the germ and the bran,
the miller discards some of the most useful constituents of
wheat. With the germ, proteid and fat are lost. And the
bran being impregnated with mineral matter, when separated
from the wheat, leaves the bread void of these substances
which are so necessary for the building of bone, brain and
nerves. To the natural taste, there is something lacking,
something not satisfying, in the white bread; but which is
found in that made from the whole grain. This leaves a
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS )
42 FOOD AND COOKERY
craving which many attempt to satisfy with rich pastries,
meat, spices and condiments. Fine-flour bread is also a
frequent cause of constipation and other unhealthy conditions.
In order to make good bread, it is necessary to have
good flour. The strength of a flour is determined by the
quantity of gluten it contains. Gluten is the chief form of
the proteid of wheat. Its elastic qualities, when mixed with
water and acted upon by yeast, allow the gas formed to
expand without danger of escape. The best flour generally
proves to be the most economical, for while it costs more
than the inferior grades,, it is in reality cheaper, because a
given quantity of good flour makes more and better bread
than the same quantity of poor flour. The best bread flour
is of a cream white color, and when a handful is taken and
squeezed, it should not retain the imprint of the fingers, but
should fall like dry sand. Ordinary pastry flour, when
handled in this way, will retain its shape in the hand, remain-
ing in one lump.
Quick-rising bread, that is, bread which is brought out in
about six or seven hours, requires more yeast than bread
which is allowed to rise over night, but is generally more
satisfactory; for the more times bread is allowed to rise, the
lighter and finer grained it will be; but some of the wheat
flavor will be destroyed. This is the reason that ordinary
baker's bread is always lacking in that sweet, nutty wheat
flavor, which so characterizes home-made bread, and which
makes it so satisfying. The idea, therefore, to be kept
before us in breadmaking is to produce an' article rich in
nutritive elements, toothsome and easily digested.
Fermented bread is usually made by mixing to a dough,
flour, water, salt and yeast, a small amount of sugar being
added to hasten fermentation. The dough is then kneaded
until it is elastic to the touch and does not stick to the board,
the object being to incorporate air and to distribute the yeast
uniformly. It is then covered and allowed to rise until it
doubles its bulk and does not respond to the touch, or when
FOOD AND COOKERY 43
tapped sharply with the fingers, it gradually but stubbornly
begins to sink down.
At this stage, the bread is proofed, which is a very impor-
tant consideration in order to have light, nice bread; and will
require all the way from three to three and one-half hours,
and it is best accomplished at a temperature ranging from
75 to 85 degrees. It is then pressed down in the center, and
worked together a little, turned over in the bowl, and allowed
to rise again until about half its former bulk. This will take
about three-quarters of an hour or more. It is then turned
out on a lightly floured board, and kneaded a few minutes, to
break the air bubbles and to distribute evenly the gas formed.
Then it is molded into loaves, put into pans, and allowed to
rise until it doubles its bulk, when it is ready for baking.
Bread should never be allowed to rise until it begins to
fall of itself. At this stage it has risen too much, and
borders on sourness. There are three stages of fermentation;
namely, alcoholic, acetous and putrefactive. Bread should
be baked during the alcoholie stage. If fermentation is
allowed to go on after the yeast has done its work, bacterial
action begins which results in sour bread.
It is very important to know when the bread is sufficiently
light after it has been placed in the pans. It should never
be allowed to rise to its limit before it is put into the oven;
but should continue to rise for the first ten to twelve minutes
after it has been put into the oven. It is better to bake the
bread a little too soon, than to allow it to rise too much. If
it rises too much, it will be coarse grained and tasteless. If
the bread should in any way get too light in the pans, it may
be molded over and allowed to rise again.
To test the lightness of the dough in the pans, press the
loaf gently with the finger, and if it responds quickly to the
touch, it may be allowed to rise more. If it responds slowly,
it should be put into the oven immediately.
Whole-wheat or graham bread must not be allowed to go
quite so far in the process of fermentation as white bread.
44 FOOD AND COOKERY
Because of the bulkiness of the whole grain, the gas escapes
more easily than from that made with a strong gluten flour.
Graham and whole-wheat bread should be watched closely
during the different stages of development, as they rise and
get light in less time than white bread. Where whole-wheat
flour is made from good hard wheat, that is, wheat which is
grown where the summers are short and not too hot, the
best bread is made from the whole grain, using no white
flour, or very little. The dough is a little harder to handle,
but you have the sweet wheat flavor. The mineral substances
contained in wheat, which are so essential to health, are then
retained in the' bread, adding much to its flavor.
The western wheat, also that grown farther south, is a
soft wheat and does not of itself make good bread, but must
be combined with a strong gluten flour. It is very often that
graham or whole-wheat flour is made from this kind of
wheat; then it can only be used in breadmaking in the pro-
portion of one part graham or whole-wheat to two parts
strong white-bread flour, or about these proportions.
Bread is also made by setting a sponge at the beginning,
making a batter of the water, yeast and flour, and letting it
rise until the batter gets charged with the yeast, then adding
any other ingredients, as fruit and shortening for fruit bread,
the shortening for buns, or the cracked grain for coarse
bread; and then working it all into a dough. Ordinary white
bread, whole-wheat and graham, are often made by the same
process. A sponge is sufficiently light when it appears
frothy and is full of bubbles. The time required will vary
with the quantity and quality of yeast used, and the tem-
perature of the room where it is set to rise.
As a general rule, with the best quality of bread flour,
three measures of flour to one of water are required to make
a dough of the proper consistency. For whole-wheat or
graham bread, a little less flour is used to the same amount
of liquid. Buns and fruit bread which must be of a softer
dough, require still less flour, as may be seen later.
FOOD AND COOKERY 45
The most convenient yeast is that sold as compressed yeast.
It should be used only when fresh, which may be determined
by its light color and absence of dark streaks. When com-
pressed yeast is not obtainable, very good bread is made
from dried yeast, as in the following recipe:
1 cake dried yeast. 2 cups potato water.
% cup sugar.
Drain the water from mashed potatoes at noon; and when
it is cooled to about 100 degrees, add the sugar and yeast
cake broken up; put in glass jar and set in a warm, place
until next morning. Liquid should measure two cups.
16. "Mother's Bread"
Add one quart of warm water to the above yeast. The
water should be so warm that after the yeast is added, the
liquid has a temperature of about 85 degrees. Beat in six
cups best bread flour, and let rise until light (about two
hours) ; then add two tablespoons crisco or vegetable oil,
two and one-half tablespoons salt, six cups graham flour,
and about five and one-half more cups of white flour, or
enough to make a dough that will knead well and not stick
to the board. Knead ten minutes and put in an oiled pan to
rise (which should take about three hours) . When light and
about double its bulk, knock it down and work it well
together; let rise again until about half its original bulk,
then work together well, divide into loaves, and put in pans
for baking. Read directions carefully for kneading, proof-
ing and baking, as given in following recipe for white bread.
In cold weather the flour should be warmed.
17. Wheat Bread
6 cups best bread flour. 1 pint water.
Vs ounce compressed yeast. 1 tablespoon sugar.
1 tablespoon oil. 1 tablespoon salt.
Sift the flour into a mixing bowl and make a hollow in the
middle; dissolve the yeast in the warm water, add the salt,
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
46 FOOD AND COOKERY
sugar and oil, and pour into the flour. Take out from the
side a good handful of flour to be used on the board, draw in
the flour with a large spoon and make it into a dough, turn
out on a floured board. Rub off all the particles of dough
sticking to the sides and bottom of the dish, and knead until
it is elastic to the touch and does not stick to the board, using
as little flour as possible to keep the bread from sticking to
the board. By keeping the bread in motion continuously,
very little flour will be needed. The kneading of white bread
will take about twenty minutes or more. Oil the bowl and
drop bread in, turn it over in the bowl so it leaves the top
oiled, which will help to keep a crust from drying on. Cover
well and let it rise until it doubles its bulk and does riot
respond to the touch, using the test given above. This will
take about three hours or more, then knock it down in the
center and work it together, turn it over in the bowl, and
let it rise until it is about one-half more than its former
bulk, then turn it out on a slightly floured board and work
it together for a few minutes. Divide it into three pieces,
knead each loaf into a hard ball, flatten down and roll the
dough up into a hard roll, and drop it into an oiled bread tin.
In molding the bread into loaves, it is very important that
each loaf be well worked together. If the bread is put into
pans in soft loaves, that is, soft because they were not
worked enough, the bread will rise flat on top instead of
rounded, and will be apt to fall when put into the oven.
After being put into pans, brush over the top of each loaf
with oil to keep a crust from drying on.
Bread should be baked in a quick oven to begin with. The
oven should not be so hot as to burn the outside of the loaf
before the inside is cooked, but should be of such a tem-
perature that the bread may rise for the first ten minutes
or more, and then have sufficient crust to hold it up, when
the fire should be closed up to hold a steady heat until the
bread is done. For the small loaves, forty to forty-five
minutes is generally sufficient; for the larger ones or those
of ordinary size, one hour to an hour and a quarter. A well-
FOOD AND COOKERY 47
baked loaf may be lifted from the pan and placed upon the
palm of the hand without burning it. This should always be
the case when bread is well-baked and the moisture evap-
orated. When done, remove from the pans and lay on the
side on a wire rack to cool. If brushed over the top with
warm water just after taking out of the oven, the crust of
the bread will keep softer and it will give a nice color.
18. Whole- wheat Bread
3% cups white bread flour. 2 cups whole-wheat flour.
1 pint water. M> ounce yeast. 1 tablespoon sugar.
1 tablespoon oil. 1 tablespoon salt.
Mix the dough the same as for white bread, only that it is
not to be kneaded so long; work it enough to mix well,
kneading it lightly, and put it into an oiled dish; cover, and
finish the same as for white bread, only it needs a little
closer watching, and must not be quite so light in the pans
as white bread. The whole-wheat and graham flour used in
these recipes are made from the western wheat mixed with
a strong gluten white flour.
19. Graham Bread
Same as whole-wheat bread, except that graham flour is
used instead of whole-wheat.
20. Fruit Bread, Rolls, Buns
5 cups bread flour. 1% cups water. '/2 ounce yeast.
Vs cup sugar. V* cup oil. 1 tablespoon salt.
2 cups sultana raisins. 2 eggs.
The eggs may be omitted if desired. Sift the flour, salt
and sugar into a bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water
(about 105 degrees) , add the beaten eggs, and pour it on one
side of the flour in the bowl. Stir in enough flour to make a
batter that will drop from a spoon, quite thick; cover, and
let it rise until very light and full of bubbles (about one and
a half to two hours) . Then add the oil and beat it into the
sponge until no oil is visible, care being taken not to get the
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
48 FOOD AND COOKERY
dry flour mixed with oil, for "yeast does not readily absorb
greased flour." When the oil is worked into the sponge,
add the raisins, previously scalded and warm. Draw in the
flour and work it into a dough. Turn out on a well-floured
board, and dust with flour to keep it from sticking to the
hands; fold it over and work it together until well mixed
about ten minutes or more, then cover and let it rise to full
proof as for white bread, using same test for lightness.
Then knock it down and work it well together, and let it rise
again until it is about two-thirds its former bulk, then it is
ready to be molded and put into pans. Finish the same as
for white bread.
The same dough may be made into buns or rolls, and if a
finer grain is desired than this, the dough may be pounded
back the second time, letting it rest a half hour before
making it into buns. This dough must always be a soft
dough.
21. Graham Buns
3 cups bread flour. iVfc cups graham flour.
1% cups water. Vz ounce yeast.
V2 cup oil. 2 teaspoons salt.
Sift the white flour, salt and sugar into a mixing bowl,
dissolve the yeast in the warm water, pour on one side of
the white flour, and make a sponge as for fruit bread.
When light and full of bubbles, add the oil and mix into the
sponge by beating with a large spoon; add the graham flour,
and mix all into a dough.
Have the board well floured to begin with, as this must be
a very soft dough. Turn out the dough, sprinkle it over
with a very little flour to keep it from sticking to the hands.
Pat it down with the hands, fold it over and work it
together until it is well mixed, using just enough flour to
keep it from sticking to the board. Return the dough to the
bowl, then cover and let it rise until it is light, using the
same test as for whole-wheat bread; then knock it down in
the center, turn it over in the bowl, and let it rise until
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 49
about one-third more than its former bulk, or for about
twenty minutes. Then turn out on a floured board, work
together very lightly, mold and roll out into buns about one
ounce in weight each, lay quite close together in an oiled
pan, and let them rise until they respond very weakly to
the pressure of the finger, and bake in a quick oven.
22. Bran Biscuit
6 cups bread flour. 1% cups graham flour. 2V-2 cups bran.
1% cups water. % cup scalded cream.
Vs cup melted crisco or butter. 1 egg. % cup sugar
M> ounce compressed yeast. 1% tablespoons salt.
Dissolve the yeast in the warm water, add three cups
white bread flour and one and one-half cups graham, and
make a medium soft dough; let rise until, when tapped with
fingers, it begins to sink down lightly (about one and one-
half hours). Work it down well, cover, and let it rise again
until about half again its original bulk, then add the warm
cream, shortening, sugar, beaten eggs and salt. Work all
into the dough until well blended, then add the remaining
white flour and bran; mix thoroughly into a stiff dough,
cover, and let rise for about an hour or more, using the
above test for lightness; then work together, lay on board
and roll out to a scant half-inch thickness. Cut with biscuit-
cutter and lay in baking-pan, leaving a little space between
each; let rise until nearly double its bulk, then bake in a
good oven.
23. Parker House Rolls with Milk
2 cups scalded milk. % cup crisco. Vs cup sugar.
3 teaspoons salt. 2 eggs. 5V6 cups best flour.
Y2 ounce compressed yeast dissolved in Vi cup warm water.
Cool the milk to about 105 degrees, add the dissolved yeast
and beaten eggs, and beat in three cups of flour, making a
smooth batter by beating for a few minutes. Cover, and let
stand in a warm place until it is light and frothy, which will
require about two hours. Then add the crisco, sugar and
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
4
50 FOOD AND COOKERY
salt, and beat in thoroughly; add the balance of flour, and
mix well. Turn out on floured board, fold it over and over
until it is well mixed, then let rise same as for fruit bread.
When light, divide the dough into one and one-half-ounce
pieces. Then divide each piece into two, rolling them into
small round buns and lay on floured board. When they are
risen to nearly half again their original bulk, have a small
roller about the size of a broom stick in circumference, and
make a crease in the center of each, oil one half, fold the
other half over it, and press together on the side where the
crease has been made. Lay in oiled baking-pan, let rise
until very light, then bake in a quick oven.
24. Cut Zwieback
Cut bread in slices about three-fourths of an inch thick,
put in shallow baking-pan in single layers, and put in a very
slow oven or a warming oven for three hours or more, until
thoroughly dried. Then put into a moderate oven, and allow
it to brown to a golden color through entire thickness.
Bakers' bread makes very good zwieback.
25. Pulled Zwieback
Take fresh bread, break carefully, pulling into pieces
instead of using pressure. The pieces should be about the
size of a medium apple. Proceed to dry and bake same as
for cut zwieback.
SOUPS
Soups are usually divided into two classes:
1. Broths or thin soups, to which may be added cooked
grains or vegetables cut in various shapes and sizes for
garniture, and to give variety and flavor. While these thin
soups are lacking in the nutriment to be found in those made
of more solid foods, they are valuable, for the stimulating
effect they have on the gastric juice, and when taken at the
beginning of the meal and in small quantities, they aid in the
digestion of the more solid foods.
2. Those which usually have as their basis cooked vege-
FOOD AND COOKERY 51
tables, grains or legumes, forced through a strainer and
diluted with the liquid in which they were cooked, or with
milk or cream, or both. Like all other foods, soups require
the action of the saliva for digestion, and when eaten slowly
with some dry food, as sticks or croutons, are both appe-
tizing and nourishing.
26. Cream of Tomato Soup A
1 cup tomato pulp. % cup cream.
1 tablespoon flour. salt to taste.
Heat the cream in a double boiler. Bring the tomato to
a boil in another sauce-pan, thicken each slightly with flour
braided smooth in cold water; then set on the edge of the
stove and pour the tomato into the prepared cream, season
to taste, strain again through a fine strainer, and serve.
By thickening the cream and tomato slightly before mixing,
the curdling, which is such a frequent cause of disappoint-
ment in making this soup, is largely avoided. Canned cream
may be added to the tomato, if desired, in the place of
fresh cream, adding it unheated to the prepared tomato.
27. Cream of Tomato Soup B
1 cup tomato pulp. 1 scant tablespoon flour.
1 cup milk. 1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
salt to taste.
Heat the tomato to boiling point, as in the above recipe,
thicken slightly as directed in same, to prevent the tomato
from curdling the milk. Heat the milk separately; put the
butter and flour in a sauce-pan on stove, and stir for a
minute, add a little of the milk and stir smooth; add balance
of the milk, boil up; pour the tomato gradually into the
prepared cream, stirring briskly; salt to taste, strain through
fine strainer, and serve.
28. Cream of Corn Soup
Vz cup corn pulp. 1% cups milk.
% cup rich cream. 2 teaspoons flour.
Grind the corn through a fine mill, put into a double
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
52 FOOD AND COOKERY
boiler with the milk, and heat to boiling point; braid the
flour smooth in cold milk or water, stir into the corn, and
let it cook twenty minutes; mash through a strainer and
finish with the cream; add salt to taste, and serve.
29. Cream of Green Peas Soup
V2 can green peas. % cup water.
1 cup milk. 11> cup rich cream.
Add the water to the peas, and heat it to the boiling point,
then mash them through a colander; heat the milk and cream
in a double boiler. Force the peas through a colander, add
the hot milk and cream, season, and strain through a fine
strainer. Fresh peas are far the best for this soup when in
season.
30. Family Potato Soup
\Vz cups thinly sliced raw potato. iVz cups cold water.
i/2 cup rich milk or cream. 1 teaspoon onion.
1*4 teaspoons salt. chopped parsley.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
Put the potato, butter, salt, onion and water to cook until
the potato is well done; add the hot cream and stir well
together, sprinkle in the parsley, and serve.
31. Lima Bean Soup
Wash one cup of Lima beans and put on the fire to cook
with one teaspoon vegetable oil or butter and enough cold
water to cook them well done; add salt when they are half
done. When they are done, there should be plenty of liquid
to cover them well. Mash through colander. Beat up one
teaspoon vegetable or dairy butter with one cup hot milk;
stir into the soup, mix well. Serve with croutons. Service
for five. A small onion may be boiled in the beans and
removed when done if desired.
32. Vegetable Oyster Soup
1 cup thinly sliced vegetable oyster. IM cups cold water.
1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons vegetable or dairy butter.
*/2 tablespoon flour. 1 scant teaspoon salt.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
POOD AND COOKERY 53
Wash and scrape small tender salsify and drop immedi-
ately into cold water to keep them from turning dark.
Shave them in just as thin slices as possible, and drop them
immediately into water until you have the right amount.
Drain and measure one and one-half cups cold water, add
one-half teaspoon salt and one teaspoon of butter, and cook
until thoroughly done and the liquid is reduced to one cup or
less. Heat the milk; then take one teaspoon of the butter
and the flour and stir it over fire for a moment, then add a
little of the hot milk and stir until thick and smooth; add a
little more milk and stir smooth to avoid lumps. Add bal-
ance of milk and boil up; add one-half teaspoon salt and
pour into the vegetable oyster; reheat and serve. The
reason for adding cold water to fresh vegetables in soup, is
to extract the flavor into the broth; hot water retains flavor
in the vegetable. Two portions.
When making cream soups from fresh vegetables, as
lettuce, cauliflower, spinach, onion, etc., the vegetable is
used simply as a flavor, the body of the soup being made from
a mixture of potato, water and onion, and the vegetable
added for flavor and garniture. Thus, by being able to
make one of these soups, others can be made by substitut-
ing different vegetables for flavor and change. As an illus-
tration, we give the following:
33. Cream of Lettuce Soup
1 cup sliced raw potato. 1 cup cold water.
1 tablespoon onion. 1 stalk celery. sprig parsley.
1M> tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
% cup diced lettuce. Va cup rich milk.
salt to taste.
Put the potato, onion, celery, water and salt to cook and
when the potato is about half done, add the lettuce and
sprig of parsley, if at hand; let it boil rapidly for ten min-
utes or more; then mash through a colander, adding the hot
milk and butter as it goes through. Put again through a
fine strainer, serve with croutons or small bits of shredded
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
54 FOOD AND COOKERY
and wilted lettuce. Very green or outside leaves of lettuce
are bitter, and should not be used for soup, but should be
first removed.
34. Tomato Bisque Soup
1 cup tomato pulp. 1 cup water.
1 cup bean broth. 2 teaspoons chopped onion.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter. , bay leaf.
1 tablespoon nut butter. pinch of thyme.
sprig parsley. salt.
Put the butter, parsley, thyme, bay leaf and onion in a
sauce-pan and stir over the fire a few moments, add all the
liquids and boil gently for fifteen minutes, dissolve the nut
butter in a little water; add this nut cream, a dash of celery
salt and salt to taste; boil up, strain, and serve.
35. Vegetable Chowder
V4 cup turnip cut in small dice. 1 1 cup carrot.
V4 cup cabbage. 1 stalk celery. 2 tablespoons onion.
V'2 cup potato, small piece of sweet bell pepper.
lYs tablespoons browned flour. 2 tablespoons tomato.
1% tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter,
pinch of sage or thyme. 4 cups water. salt to taste.
Put the coarse vegetables into a sauce-pan, together with
the butter, flour, sage and salt. Cover and let simmer for
a few minutes, stirring now and then. Add the cold water,
potato and tomato and let cook until done. Finish with a
little chopped parsley, and serve.
36. Vegetable Julienne
Vz cup potato. 14 cup carrot. Vi cup turnip. 1 stalk celery.
2 tablespoons onion. Vz cup cauliflowerlets.
1 small tomato. 2 cups cold water.
2 cups bean broth or vegetable broth.
2 teaspoons vegetable or dairy butter, chopped parsley.
Cut all the vegetables except the cauliflowerlets into fine
shreds of about three-fourth-inch lengths. Put all the vege-
tables except the parsley into sauce-pan with the butter and
let steam for a few minutes over the fire, stirring occasion-
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 55
ally; add the tomato and all the liquids, salt to taste and
boil until the vegetables are tender, add chopped parsley,
and serve.
37. Farmers' Favorite Soup
% cup rich sour cream. % cup macaroni, raw.
1 small onion. 1 stalk celery. % cup finely diced carrot.
1 cup diced potato. chopped parsley. salt.
Cook the cream down in skillet, stirring constantly until
the oil separates and the albumen turns a light brown color
(the degree of browning determines the flavor of the soup).
Add the diced carrot, onion and celery and stir over the fire
for a few minutes, but do not brown; add three cups cold
water and the diced potato and salt and let cook until the
vegetables are thoroughly done. Drop the macaroni into
three cups of boiling water and cook until thoroughly done,
add the macaroni water to the vegetable soup; then lay the
macaroni on board and cut into small rings, drop into soup
and boil up well, add chopped parsley, and serve. Service
for six.
38. Potage St. Germain
1 cup sliced raw potato. Ys can green peas.
V\ cup celery. 1 tablespoon onion. 2 cups water.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
Add the sliced potato, celery, onion and salt to the water,
and boil until the potatoes are well cooked. Add the peas,
bring to a boil, mash up well with an egg-beater, and force
through a fine strainer; season with the butter, and serve
with croutons.
39. Fruit Soup A
1 cup blackberry or strawberry juice. 2 tablespoons sago.
1 teaspoon lemon juice. 1 cup water.
sugar to taste.
Put the sago in dish and wash in cold water, pour off as
much water as possible from dish; put into double boiler with
one cup hot water and let steam until clear. Add the juices
and sweeten to taste. Very nice served cold.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS)
56 FOOD AND COOKERY
40. Fruit Soup B
1H cups berry juice. ip stewed raisins.
6 cooked prunes. 3 tablespoons sago.
sugar to taste. 2 cups water.
Wash sago same as above and put to cook in two cups hot
water until the sago is clear. Stone and quarter the prunes,
mix all the ingredients and sweeten to taste.
GRAINS, NUT FOODS, ENTREES
In seeking to provide a balanced diet, a few suggestions
may be helpful. In the first place, flesh foods contain a very
high percentage of proteid matter, with no carbohydrates;
thus, in a given quantity eaten, too much proteid is the
inevitable result. This high percentage of proteid, as stated
in the preceding chapter, is a heavy tax on the digestive
organs. Therefore, it should not be our aim to bring the
percentage of proteid up to that contained in meat; this
would only tend to defeat one of the main objects of health
reform, that of providing a balanced diet, of which proteid
should constitute ten per cent of the number of calories per
day, fats twenty, and carbohydrates seventy.
The comparison between the body and the locomotive
engine serves as an illustration for studying the fuel value
of foods. While iron is essential to keep the engine in
repairs, the greatest demand, however, will be for fuel with
which to heat the boiler. So in the vital economy, proteid,
like iron, is essential for the growth and repair of tissue and
the body waste; but beyond this it is inferior to carbohy-
drates and fats; and as different kinds of wood and coal are
capable of giving off different degrees of heat, and also giving
off that heat in longer or shorter periods of time, so different
kinds of food-stuffs work in about the same way. Also
different kinds of coal, after being burned, leave a residue
of clinkers to be raked out of the furnace; so with the over-
eating of proteid foods, there is an extra amount of work
for the kidneys to rid the system of accumulated poisons.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS )
FOOD AND COOKERY 57
Then we should remember that fresh vegetables are by no
means the most nutritious food, for, as may be clearly seen,
water enters largely into their composition. Some, in leaving
off flesh foods, make a mistake in making vegetables, as
roots and tubers, the principal articles of diet. These vege-
tables, with grains and nuts, will give a well-balanced diet.
The legumes are a highly nutritious food, and when properly
prepared may be used in a variety of ways in making dishes
that are wholesome and pleasing to the taste. They are,
however, a heavy food, and for people leading sedentary
lives, they should not be indulged too freely.
The various nut foods on the market, composed chiefly of
grains and nuts, contain the nutritive elements of food in a
very concentrated form, and should not be eaten too freely,
but should be combined with other foods. A few examples
of how they may be made into appetizing dishes will be
given in some of the following recipes. Other nut foods of
a similar nature may be used in the place of the ones given,
if desired.
LEGUMES
The most common representatives of this family which are
used as foods are the various kinds of beans and peas, also
lentils. Taking the world over, legumes are, next to cereals,
the most valuable and the most extensively used among
vegetable foods. They are found in all climates and all
countries. The lentil is one of the most ancient of food
plants. It has been grown from early times in Asia and the
Mediterranean countries.
Many people with weak digestion often experience distress
after eating boiled beans or peas. By removing the hulls
in their preparation, this trouble is largely overcome, and in
this manner they may be made into a variety of ways that
are appetizing as well as nourishing.
41. Stewed Lima Beans
Pick the beans over, wash them thoroughly, and lift them
out from the water to remove any small pieces of grit that
55 FOOD AND COOKERY
may be on the bottom of the kettle. Put them on the fire
in cold water; a'dd one teaspoon of vegetable oil to each cup
of beans, and let them boil gently (after boiling begins)
until they are thoroughly done; salt should be added after
they have boiled a half hour or so, to give them flavor.
42. Baked Lima Beans
Soak one cup of Lima beans over night, and in the morn-
ing slip off the skins between the thumb and finger. Put
them in a small baking-pan with one-half teaspoon salt and
one teaspoon vegetable or dairy butter, and enough cold
water to cover them. Put a pan over them and set them in
the oven to cook, adding a little water as needed, so they do
not cook down dry. When they are about done, remove the
pan from the top, and let them brown nicely. Service for
five persons.
43. Browned Navy Bean Puree
2 cups navy bean puree. 3 tablespoons rich cream.
1 egg yolk. salt.
Boil the beans the same as for stewed Lima beans; drain
in a colander; saving the broth for soups or gravies. Mash
the beans through colander, having them as dry as possible.
Mix all ingredients, put in oiled baking-pan; brush over with
a little thin cream or vegetable butter, and bake in a quick
oven to a light brown color. Service for five persons.
44. Ribbon Bean Roast
Ys cup Lima beans. . Vz cup kidney beans.
Vi cup thick cream. 1 egg yolk. salt.
Cook the beans separately with a small piece of onion in
each, and salt to taste; let them cook as dry as possible.
Drain off the broth, should there be any, and press the
beans through a colander dry. Add the yolk and cream to
each mixture, salt to taste, place in alternate layers in brick-
shaped tin, and bake in a moderate oven until heated through
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 59
and a nice brown. Serve with cream tomato sauce or gravy.
Service for five.
45. Red Beans Spanish
l l /2 cups red beans. 6 large whole or two cups stewed tomatoes.
2 round tablespoons minced onion. 1 tablespoon oil.
salt. 1 small clove garlic. */2 sweet bell pepper.
Prepare the beans as for stewed Lima beans, put the oil,
onion, sweet pepper and garlic on the stove in a small sauce-
pan, and cook a few minutes, but do not brown the onion.
Add this to the beans with salt, and cook until done; then
have the ripe tomatoes peeled and quartered, add them to
the cooked beans, and let them cook for thirty minutes after
boiling begins, or longer. Season with celery salt, and dish
up with a little chopped parsley on top.
In making patties and croquettes of the various legumes
and cereals, a choux paste serves as a means of holding the
food together so it can be shaped and baked without adding
bread crumbs, which have a tendency to cover up the delicate
flavors in the various foods when cooked together; it also
retains moisture and keeps the food from drying out while
serving.
46. Walnut Lentil Patties
2 cups lentil puree. Ys cup chopped walnuts.
\V-2 tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
1 tablespoon chopped onion. 3 tablespoons flour.
Vs cup milk. 1 egg yolk. pinch of sage.
salt to taste.
Have the lentils boiled in salted water, same as for stewed
Lima beans; drain well, and mash them through colander,
having them as dry as possible. In case they should be too
soft, let them dry out on the fire or in the oven for- a few
minutes.
Put the butter, onion and a sprinkle of sage into small
sauce-pan, and stir over the fire for a few minutes, but do
not let it brown; add the flour, and stir until it is thoroughly
scalded, then add the hot milk and stir smooth; add the
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
60 FOOD AND COOKERY
egg yolk and stir until thoroughly cooked and a thick paste.
Salt to taste, then add the lentil puree and mix well. Fill an
ice cream mold and turn out on lightly floured board; flatten
with knife about three-fourths inch thick and mold into
small round cakes, mark on top with a knife, brush over top
of each with cream or milk, and bake on top grate of a quick
oven to a light brown color. Eight portions.
47. Navy Bean Patties
Use two cups of bean puree instead of the lentils in the
above recipe, and omit the walnuts. Mix with the above
choux paste, and mold the same as lentil patties. Seven
portions.
48. Cutlets of Green Peas
Open a can of peas, and bring to a boil; then drain as dry
as possible, mash through a colander, and set them in the
oven until they are hot through, so they will dry out a little.
Make a choux paste the same as for lentil patties, add peas
and mix well. Mold into small oblong shapes, mark on top
with knife, brush over with cream and bake in a quick oven
to a light brown. This mixture must needs be quite soft,
and therefore a little hard to handle, but with a sprinkle of
flour on the board, the cutlets can be molded nicely, and if
not baked too long, but just browned lightly in a quick oven,
they have a very delicate flavor, and are especially adapted
for banquet or special dinner service. The above makes six
portions.
49. Macaroni and Rice Croquettes
1 cup boiled rice, dry. 1 cup cooked macaroni.
Make choux paste the same as for lentil patties, add the
rice and chopped macaroni, also chopped parsley to taste.
Wet an ice cream mold with milk, and fill with the above
mixture, turn out on an oiled baking sheet, and brown in a
quick oven. If desired, they may be molded in cork shapes,
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 61
flattened slightly with a knife, and baked, instead of using
the mold. Six portions.
50. Savory Lentil Roast
Cook together one-half cup lentils and one-half cup beans
with salt until thoroughly done; drain in colander, saving the
broth for gravies or soups. Mash the legumes through
colander, and use as follows:
1 cup soaked stale bread (pressed out lightly).
2 cups legume puree. 2 tablespoons chopped onion.
2 tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
Vs cup coarsely chopped walnuts. 1 egg.
salt, sage or thyme to taste.
Put the onion, sage and butter in a small pan on the stove,
and simmer for a minute or two; beat the egg, and mix all
ingredients. Bake in greased pan; serve with brown sauce
or tomato sauce. Seven portions.
51. Lentil and Rice Loaf Country Style
2 cups boiled rice. 1 cup lentil puree.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
1 tablespoon onion. % cup chopped walnuts.
sage and salt.
Have the lentil puree and rice as dry as possible; put the
butter, onion and sage into a small sauce-pan, and simmer
for a minute. Mix all the ingredients together with a fork,
salt to taste. Press lightly into a brick-shaped tin, brush
over top with a little cream or vegetable butter, and bake
about half an hour, until of a light brown color. For six.
52. Nut and Potato Pie
2 cups sliced raw potatoes. l a /2 cups cold water.
1 tablespoon onion. 1^4 teaspoons salt.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
1 scant tablespoon flour. chopped parsley.
nut food (if at hand). hard-boiled egg. crust.
Add the sliced potato, onion and salt to the water, and
cook until done; drain, and lay the sliced potato in an oiled
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
62 FOOD AND COOKERY
baking-pan. Put the butter and flour into a small sauce-pan,
and stir over the fire for a few minutes, then add a little of
the potato water and stir smooth. Add the rest of the
liquor, boil up, and pour the sauce over the sliced potato.
Lay a few slices of hard-boiled egg, and the same of nut
cero, if on hand, over the potato, and sprinkle lightly with
chopped parsley over all. Cover with thin pie-crust, brush
over with milk, and bake to a nice brown. Service for four.
53. Potato Stew Egg Dumplings
2 cups raw potato cut in half-inch cubes. 2% cups cold water.
1 tablespoon chopped onion. 2 large eggs.
4 tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
up flour (measured after being sifted once).
l!4 teaspoons salt.
Put one-half cup water in small sauce-pan, add two table-
spoons butter and a little salt, and bring to a boil. When
boiling hot, add two-thirds cup sifted flour all at once, and
stir into a smooth paste; keep stirring over the fire for a
minute until the flour is well scalded, then set on table. As
soon as the scald is off the paste, break in one egg, and stir
until the egg is all absorbed and the paste smooth, then add
the other egg and treat in like manner. The batter should
be perfectly smooth.
Put the potato, onion, salt and two and one-fourth cups of
water with one tablespoon of butter to cook in a covered
vessel. While this is heating, put one tablespoon butter and
one and one-half tablespoons flour in a small pan, and stir
over the fire for a moment, then add a little of the water
on the potato, and stir smooth; add more water, and stir to
a smooth thin gravy; then pour it over the potato and bring
to a boil. When the potato is about half cooked, and certain
that it is seasoned to suit, drop the batter from a tablespoon
into the boiling stew, the spoon being first dipped in the
liquid; cover and boil up well, until the dumplings are pretty
well risen, then let simmer for about fifteen minutes, or
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 63
until the liquid is reduced to the right consistency to dish up
nicely. For six persons.
54. Cream Noodles
2 eggs. % cup flour. V cup milk. salt to taste.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
Beat one large egg slightly, add the flour, and mix well
with a heavy spoon, turn out on a floured board, and knead a
few minutes; divide into three pieces, roll out into thin
sheets, have them well floured, and let them lie to dry out a
little, then cut them into long strips about one and one-half
inches in width, then cut crosswise into fine shreds. Have
salted water boiling hot, sprinkle in the noodles; if they are
put in all at once they will stick together. Let them cook
fifteen minutes, drain, and return to the sauce-pan, cover
and set on the edge of the stove, add the milk and butter;
when all is hot, add one beaten egg, mix well, and do not let
boil; but heat just enough to thicken, so it will dish up on
the plate and not run; salt to taste.
55. Baked Noodles au Gratin
Boil the noodles same as in above recipe, drain well, add
enough rich cream sauce to season, lay in oiled baking-pan,
grate fresh bread crumbs over top, sprinkle with cream or
butter, and press the crumbs into the cream to moisten them;
bake to a nice golden brown.
56. Baked Corn Nut Pie
1 cup corn pulp. Vs cup light-colored zwieback crumbs.
% cup rich milk. 3 teaspoons vegetable or dairy butter.
] /4 cup cream. 1 tablespoon chopped onion.
1 egg. sprinkle of sage. Vs cup diced nutloaf.
salt and celery salt to taste.
Heat the milk to about 120 degrees, and pour over the
crumbs; add two teaspoons of the butter; let stand ten
minutes. Grind the corn through a fine mill, and add to the
crumbs, also egg slightly beaten and one teaspoon salt, and
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS)
64 FOOD AND COOKERY
celery salt to taste; mix thoroughly. Put the onion, sage
and one teaspoon butter in sauce-pan and stir for a few
minutes until the onion is softened a little but not brown, add
the cream and when it boils add the nutloaf, sprinkle with
salt and let cook until the cream is mostly absorbed by the
nut food; then fill a small baking-pan half full of the corn
mixture, sprinkle over it the nutloaf evenly, then recover
with the corn mixture. Bake in a medium oven until set and
a nice brown. Let stand a few minutes, then cut in squares,
and serve.
57. Roast Nut Meat with Dressing
Open a pound can of nut cero, or other nut food, split
through center lengthwise, lay in an oiled pan, brush the top
over with oil or vegetable butter, and put in the oven until a
slight crust forms on the meat; then pour over a thin brown
sauce, and continue to bake same for one hour, basting it
now and then over top with the gravy. When done, lift out
on board, slice, and serve with the following.
58. Baked Dressing
2 cups soaked stale bread. 2 tablespoons minced onion.
2Va tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
1 tablespoon chopped parsley. 1 egg.
sage. iVz teaspoons salt, or more.
Soak the stale bread in plenty of cold water until soft, pour
into a colander and let drain; press lightly between the
hands leaving it very soft. Put the onion, sage, parsley and
butter. in a sauce-pan, and let simmer a few moments, but do
not brown. Beat the egg lightly, and mix all the ingredients;
put into oiled baking-pan, and bake until a nice brown and
cooked through. To dish up, lay the nut cero on a carving
board, put a spoonful of dressing on platter, lay a slice of
nut cero on top, and pour a spoonful of brown gravy over all.
Serve with sprig of parsley at one end. By adding small
quantity of brown gravy to the bread in making dressing,
the egg may be left out. For six persons.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 65
59. Nut Cromeskies
Y2 cup nutloaf. 2 tablespoons chopped onion.
1 teaspoon chopped parsley. 2 tablespoons flour.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
Vs cup tomato pulp. crust. 1 egg.
V teaspoon salt. pinch of thyme.
Put the onion, parsley, thyme and butter into a small pan
to simmer a few moments, add the flour and mix well; pour
in the tomato and stir smooth, then add the beaten egg and
stir until all is thoroughly cooked and a thick paste. Mash
the nutloaf with fork, and work into the hot mixture until
all is well blended with salt to taste.
Roll out plain pastry very thin; cut in strips about three
inches wide. Take a tablespoon of the nut mixture, and roll
it to about the size of the thumb, lay on end of strip, and
fold the strip over it, making a roll; wet the edges of the
pastry where they meet, and cut it off so it has the appear-
ance of a cream roll. Lay them in a baking-pan, brush over
with milk or cream, and bake to a nice brown. Serve with
tomato sauce. Six portions.
60. Baked Macaroni Family Style
1 cup macaroni, raw. 1 cup tomato pulp.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
1 tablespoon onion. sprinkle of sage or thyme.
1 egg. salt to taste.
Break the macaroni into inch lengths, drop into boiling
salted water, and cook until thoroughly done; then wash and
drain in colander. Put the butter, onion and little sage or
thyme into sauce-pan, and stir over fire for a few minutes,
but do not brown; add the tomato and bring to a boil, salt to
taste; then pour the hot mixture slowly into the beaten egg,
stirring it briskly as it is being poured in; add the cooked
macaroni, and pour all into an oiled baking-pan and bake to
a light brown. Service for five persons.
61. Baked Macaroni and Olives
Va cup uncooked macaroni. Ys cup chopped ripe olives.
1 tablespoon chopped onion. 2 tablespoons tomato.
1 cup of water in which the macaroni was cooked.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil. 2Vs tablespoons flour.
salt and celery salt to taste.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
5
66 FOOD AND COOKERY
Break the macaroni into half-inch lengths, drop into boil-
ing salted water, and cook until it is well done. Put the oil
in a small pan on the stove, and when hot, add the flour and
stir until well browned, then add the onion and chopped
olives. Let them cook a few minutes, then add one cup
macaroni water and two tablespoons tomato; let it boil five
minutes, have the macaroni well drained, and while hot put
it into the gravy, turn into a baking-dish, grate a few fresh
bread crumbs over the top, and with a spoon press them
down onto the gravy, so they will become moistened through;
bake until a nice brown. Service for four persons.
62. Macaroni au Gratin
Break the macaroni into inch lengths, and drop into boiling
salted water, and let cook until well done. Pour into a
colander and let it drain well, after which put it into a
granite baking-pan, and pour over enough rich cream sauce
to barely cover it. Mix it well, and grate some fresh bread
crumbs on top to give it a good color. Sprinkle over a little
thin cream, and with a large spoon press the crumbs down
so they become softened by the liquid and will brown without
burning. Bake in a medium oven about thirty to forty
minutes or until a nice brown.
63. Spanish Rice
V4 cup uncooked rice. -:-, cup cold water.
% cup tomato pulp. 2 tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
1 tablespoon "diced onion. 1 teaspoon browned flour.
1 tablespoon diced sweet bell pepper.
sage, celery salt and salt to taste.
Brown the rice in a frying-pan on the stove or in a hot
oven until a very light brown; put into the inner part of a
double boiler, add the cold water and one-half teaspoon salt,
and boil on a good fire until the water is evaporated and the
rice is dry, then set into the outer part of the boiler and steam.
Put the onion, sweet pepper and butter on the fire and stir
for a few moments; add the sage, browned flour and a little
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 67
of the tomato; stir smooth, add the balance of the tomato
and boil up well, salt to taste. Pour over the rice, mix well
and let steam for twenty minutes or more, and serve. Four
portions.
64. Baked Rice Italienne
V-2 cup rice, raw. V cup macaroni, raw.
1 tablespoon onion. 1 small clove garlic.
2 tablespoons sweet bell pepper.
\Vz tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
iVa cups tomato pulp. iVs cups water, salt, thyme.
Put the rice into a frying-pan and brown over the fire or
in a hot oven to a light golden brown, add one-half teaspoon
salt and the water, and let cook down dry; set on edge of
stove with cover on and let steam. Break the macaroni up
very small, and put to cook in boiling salted water, cook
until thoroughly done; then wash it and drain in colander.
Put the sweet pepper, onion, garlic and thyme into a pan
with the butter, and stir over fire for a few minutes, add the
tomato and boil up well, salt to taste and pour over the rice,
mix well. Put a layer of the rice tomato in a small baking-
pan, sprinkle the macaroni evenly over same, season with
small bits of vegetable butter or thick cream; then pour on
the balance of the rice, and bake one-half hour or more.
Service for five persons.
65. Walnut Timbales
2 cups stale white bread cut in small dice. % cup ground walnuts.
1 tablespoon onion. 1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
1 cup milk. 1 egg. l /4 cup tomato.
sage and salt to taste.
Beat the egg, add the milk, and pour over the bread; put
the onion, sage and butter into small pan, and simmer for a
few moments; add the tomato and boil up well. Mix all
ingredients thoroughly, salt to taste. Oil five timbale molds,
and divide the mixture between them, set in a pan of water
and bake in oven until set. Serve with tomato or tomato
cream sauce.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
68 FOOD AND COOKERY
66. Corn Timbales
"i cup canned corn ground through food mill. 1 cup milk.
_' CL salt. celery salt and thyme to taste.
Beat the eggs, mix all ingredients thoroughly, and bake
same as walnut timbales, except that these must be baked
with greater care; that is, they must be removed from the
oven just as soon as the custard is set, otherwise they will
be watery and their flavor ruined. Green corn is best, when
in season. Serve with cream tomato sauce. Five portions.
67. Walnut Roast
Y2 cup chopped walnuts. 1 cup milk.
1 cup zwieback crumbs. 2 teaspoons grated onion.
1 egg. pinch of sage. salt to taste.
Beat the egg, add the milk, and pour over the crumbs, let
soak twenty minutes. Mix all ingredients, put in oiled
brick-tin and bake until brown and cooked through. Egg
may be left out if desired.
68. Baked Spaghetti and Cornlet
% cup spaghetti, raw. 1 cup corn pulp.
2 tablespoons sweet bell pepper. 1 tablespoon onion.
\V<2 tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
1% tablespoons flour. % cup milk.
salt to taste.
Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water until well done;
having broken it into half -inch lengths. Grind corn through
food mill; put the onion, sweet pepper and butter together
in sauce-pan, and stir over fire for a minute; add the flour,
and stir. Then add a little of the milk, and beat smooth;
add balance of milk, salt to taste, and let boil up. Put a
layer of the spaghetti in a small baking-pan, then a layer of
the corn; pour half of the cream sauce over it, working it
down into the food. Put another layer of spaghetti and corn
as before, then the cream sauce on top. Sprinkle over with
fresh bread crumbs, moisten them with a little rich cream or
butter, and bake until thoroughly done and a nice brown.
Five portions.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 69
69. New England Dinner
4 medium-sized potatoes. 4 small turnips.
3 carrots. 6 small onions. Vz small cabbage.
2 tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter.
2 l /2 teaspoons salt.
Quarter the peeled turnips and carrots, add the onions
whole, put in sauce-pan with the butter or oil, salt and
enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil. Parboil
the cabbage; drain and add to the boiling vegetables above,
also the potatoes cut in quarters. Boil all together until
thoroughly done. If all the vegetables are poured into a
baking-pan when cooked and set in a medium oven for fifteen
minutes, the flavor of the vegetables will be improved.
GRAVIES AND SAUCES
70. Brown Sauce A
2 tablespoons crisco or vegetable oil. 3 tablespoons flour.
1 tablespoon onion. 2 tablespoons tomato.
1% cups vegetable broth or potato water, salt.
Put the oil in small frying-pan, and when hot, add the
flour and keep stirring until well browned; then add the
onion and stir for a few minutes; add a little of the liquid
and stir smooth, add the balance of liquid and tomato and
boil up well, salt to taste, strain and serve.
Brown Sauce B
Cook down one-half cup cream, sweet or sour; stir until the
oil separates and the albumen turns a light brown color, then
add one tablespoon chopped onion and stir for a few minutes;
then add flour, which has been previously browned in oven to
take up the oil thus made, and dilute with vegetable broth or
potato water and finish as in the preceding recipe.
71. Country Gravy
Use same proportions of oil, flour and onion as in either of
the foregoing recipes; then use one and one-half cups milk
instead of the potato water, only the flour is not to be
browned quite so much when milk is used.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
70 FOOD AND COOKERY
72. Olive Sauce
Add eight chopped ripe olives to the onion, and make the
same as brown sauce.
73. Cream Sauce
l"cup rich milk. 1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
I ablespoons flour.
Stir the butter and flour together in sauce-pan over the fire,
add a small portion of the hot milk, and stir smooth; add
remaining milk and let boil up, salt to taste and serve.
74. Nut Sauce
Dissolve two tablespoons nut butter in a little hot milk
and stir into the above cream sauce.
75. Tomato Sauce
1 cup tomato pulp. 2 teaspoons vegetable or dairy butter.
\V-2 tablespoons light browned flour.
1 teaspoon chopped onion. salt and celery salt to taste.
Put the butter in .a small stew-pan on the fire, add the
onion, and stir a. few minutes, but do not brown; add the
browned flour and tomato, stir smooth, and let boil up.
Season with salt and celery salt, and strain through a fine
strainer.
76. Tomato Cream Sauce
1 cup tomato pulp. % cup rich cream.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
2 tablespoons flour, salt to taste.
Heat the butter and flour in a small sauce-pan for a few
moments, add one-third cup of tomato, and stir until thick
and smooth; add balance of tomato and boil up. Salt to
taste, stir into cream, and serve.
77. Hollandaise Sauce
1 cup cream. 1 tablespoon flour.
2 tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter. 2 egg yolks.
2 tablespoons lemon juice. . salt.
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FOOD AND COOKERY 71
Heat the cream. Put butter and flour in sauce-pan, and
stir over the fire for a moment. Add a little of the cream,
and stir smooth; add balance of the cream, and boil up.
Beat the yolks and lemon juice, add a little of the hot cream,
and beat into the yolks; then pour the yolk mixture into the
hot cream, and stir for a few minutes, salt to taste and serve.
78. Brazil Nut Sauce
5 Brazil nuts, ground fine. 4 tablespoons flour.
lYz cups potato water or milk.
Brown the flour in a frying-pan on top of the stove; when
it is of a light golden color, add the nuts, and stir through
the flour for five minutes; add half the liquid and stir smooth;
add the balance of the water, and let it cook ten minutes.
Salt to taste, strain, and serve.
VEGETABLES
Vegetables may be divided into two classes:
1. The coarse or fibrous vegetables, comprising the roots,
tubers, bulbs, stems and leaves.
2. The finer vegetables, as tomatoes, squash, corn, green
peas, shelled beans, etc.
Vegetables, like all starchy foods, should be put to cook in
boiling water, the object being to soften the cellulose as well
as to swell and burst the starch grains. While there is
scarcely any other food more universally used by rich and
poor alike in making up a part of their daily bill of fare, yet
how often the vegetable is spoiled in cooking. Vegetables
should always be cooked until thoroughly done. Served in
a half-cooked condition as is so often the case, they are un-
palatable and indigestible; while on the other hand, coarse
vegetables should be cooked in plenty of boiling water, and
should be removed from the fire when done, because longer
cooking makes them insipid in taste, and if cooked in too
little water they turn a dark color. Salt should be added the
last half hour of the cooking, to give flavor.
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72 FOOD AND COOKERY
Green vegetables, as peas and string beans, when young
and tender, should be cooked in just enough water to cook
them well done and preserve their flavor. To retain the
green color in the new vegetables, the cover must be left off
while cooking, and they should cook steadily after they are
put on, and not allowed to stop cooking or simmering until
they are done.
Young, tender vegetables, as lettuce, tomatoes, water-
cress, etc., served in the uncooked state, are valuable for
the water and potash salts they contain, also for the stimu-
lating effect they have on the appetite.
79. New Peas
Shell the peas as soon after picking them as possible, drop
into cold water, and skim off any dry leaves or imperfect
ones that come to the top; then dip them out of the water
with the hands so as to leave any grit there may be in them
on the bottom of the dish; drop them into boiling water,
enough to cover them if tender, add salt, and let them cook
until well done and the liquid reduced to one-third its original
quantity. If desired, they may be thickened slightly with
flour braided smooth in cold water, and a little cream added
just before serving.
80. String Beans
String beans should be picked while they are young and
tender. Break them between the hands so as to remove any
stringy fiber, also the ends. Put two teaspoons of vegetable
oil into a sauce-pan on the stove, and when quite hot add one
pint of string beans which have previously been washed;
stir over the fire for a few minutes, then add enough boiling
water to cover them; add salt to season and let them boil
quite rapidly until well done. If more water is added, it
should be boiling hot.
81. New Asparagus
Put the stalks in a deep pan of water and wash well, that
sand and grit may sink to the bottom; change the water
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FOOD AND COOKERY 73
and lift them out, tie them in bundles of about three por-
tions each; lay on a board and trim off the root stems, leav-
ing the stalks about four inches in length; drop them into
boiling water salted, and cook till tender, then set the sauce-
pan on the table until ready to serve; lift out and drain, lay
on a platter, cut, and remove the strings and send to the
table. Serve with rich cream sauce or hollandaise sauce.
82. Asparagus Tips and New Peas
Cut the tender part of cooked new asparagus into one-inch
lengths, cook the peas separately, and when done add enough
rich cream to season them well. When they come to a boil,
thicken slightly with a little flour braided smooth in cold
milk or water; add the asparagus tips and shake together to
mix well and not break them up.
83. Stewed Tomato
Pour boiling water over ripe tomatoes and let remain a
few seconds, then drain; remove the skin and the stem with
the hard green part adhering to it, and cut into quarters.
Put into a sauce-pan with about one teaspoon vegetable
butter or more to each cup of tomatoes, and salt to taste.
Boil up well and serve.
84. Breaded Tomato
Cut stale bread into one-half inch cubes, and brown in
the oven until crisp all through. Drop them into the boiling
stewed tomatoes and serve.
85. Baked Tomato
Select medium-sized solid tomatoes, peel them, and with
the point of a knife cut out a little of the hard part of the
stem end; lay them close together in a baking-pan, sprinkle
with salt and sugar, and put a speck of vegetable or dairy
butter in each cavity; then bake until done, but not broken.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
74 FOOD AND COOKERY
86. Baked Stuffed Tomato
Peel the tomatoes same as for baked tomato; cut a hole
in the stem end, in diameter about the size of a nickel;
scoop out like the appearance of a cored apple, but do not
hollow out the whole tomato. Sprinkle with salt and sugar,
and fill with the following:
V* cup nutloaf. V\ cup ripe tomato.
V& cup soaked bread (pressed out), sage, onion,
salt to taste.
Mash all these ingredients together with a silver fork, and
fill the tomatoes, having them heaped up a little. Set them
close together in baking-pan and bake same as the above
recipe.
87. Scalloped Tomato
Trim off the very brown crust of stale bread; cut into one-
fourth-inch dice, or larger; lay in oiled baking-pan and bake
until they are a light brown, stirring them as they brown.
Use one cup toasted bread cubes to one and one-half cups
stewed tomato and one tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter,
a sprinkle of sugar, and salt to taste.
Put one-half cup of croutons in bottom of oiled baking-
dish, pour over these one and one-half cups of tomatoes
seasoned; sprinkle the remaining half cup of croutons over
the top; press them down with spoon so they are all sub-
merged; put the butter over top, and bake to a nice brown.
88. Summer Squash
When young and tender, summer squash need only to be
washed and quartered. Steam until tender, press between
two colanders, or in cheese-cloth until quite dry. Mash and
season with salt and cream. When the squash is older, it
must be peeled and have the seeds removed before cooking.
89. Scalloped Summer Squash
2 cups cooked summer squash. :; t cup milk.
2 cups stale bread cut in small dice.
1 tablespoon vegetable or dairy butter.
1 egg. salt.
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FOO> AND COOKERY 75
Cook the squash in salted water or steam until done, drain
well and mash. Trim off the brown crust from stale white
bread, and cut the white part into small dice. Beat the egg,
add the milk and a little salt, and pour over the bread, letting
it soak ten minutes. Add the squash and butter to the soaked
bread, mix lightly and lay in oiled baking-pan; sprinkle a
little cream or butter over top, and bake until thoroughly
done and a nice brown.
90. Scalloped Eggplant
Use one medium large eggplant (two cups after being
cooked) . Peel the eggplant, quarter and slice one-half inch
thick, then drop into boiling salted water and cook until
done; drain well and mash up. Use the same proportions of
diced bread, milk and egg as for summer squash, No. 89.
Mix and bake same as for scalloped squash.
91. Breaded Eggplant
Peel medium small eggplant, cut in two lengthwise; then
cut each half into quarters or thirds, lengthwise, according
to size of vegetable. Drop into boiling salted water, and
cook until slightly underdone, drain. Beat up one egg with
half cup milk or more; dip eggplant first in flour, then in the
egg and milk, then in finely rolled zwieback crumbs. Lay in
oiled baking-pan, brush over with a little vegetable butter or
the milk mixture used. Bake in medium oven until thor-
oughly done and a nice brown. Pan may be covered if oven
is hot, and then cover removed to brown, before serving.
92. Corn on Cob
Add a few slices of lemon or a small quantity of lemon
juice to the water for corn, bring to boil, put in the ears of
corn, or add enough milk to make the liquid quite milky;
boil up well, and then set on edge of stove to draw for twenty
minutes. Salt, if added, should be put in after the corn is
cooked, as it toughens the kernels and turns them red.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
76 FOOD AND COOKERY
93. Green Corn Saute
Put one-half cup of rich cream into an oiled frying-pan,
with a teaspoon of chopped onion if desired; let cook down
until it nearly separates, then add one cup corn cut off the
cob with salt, toss in pan over fire until thoroughly heated
through, and serve.
94. Baked Cream Corn
1 cup corn pulp. --.>, cup rich milk.
1 egg. % cup light-colored zwieback crumbs.
% teaspoon salt. a little celery salt.
Warm the milk to about 120 degrees, pour it over the
crumbs and let them soak. Have the corn ground through a
fine mill, mix all the ingredients, put into an oiled baking-
pan, put a teaspoon of butter or cream over the top to give
it a nice color, and bake until set and a nice brown.
95. Cauliflower au Gratin
Remove all the green leaves from the cauliflower, and
divide into bouquets or pieces about the size of a large hen's
egg. Wash well and drop into boiling salted water, and
cook until tender; care should be taken not to cook it too
long, or it will break up. When done, drain, and lay the
pieces in an oiled baking-pan; pour over it enough cream
sauce to nearly cover it, then grate a few fresh bread crumbs
over the top and press them down with a spoon so they
become moistened with the cream sauce; sprinkle a little
milk or cream over the top, and bake until a light brown.
96. Cauliflower Bouchees
Prepare the cauliflower same as above, into bouquets suit-
able for one portion each; boil in salted water until done but
not too soft; lift them out and lay on platter to drain. Roll
out pie-paste quite thin, cut in squares about four inches each
way, lay a bouquet of the cooked vegetable on each piece,
add a little vegetable butter, bring all four corners up and
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 77
fasten them together at top by brushing tips with water;
lay in baking-pan and bake in a quick oven. Serve with
tomato sauce.
97. Stewed Salsify or Vegetable Oyster
Wash salsify, then take them one at a time and scrape
them, dropping them immediately into cold water to keep
them from turning a dark color. When thus prepared, split
with knife through the thick part only, then cut crosswise
into one-half-inch lengths or longer. Put two cups vegetable
oyster in sauce-pan with hot water to cover, and salt to taste;
let boil gently until done and the water reduced to one cupful.
Put two teaspoons vegetable or dairy butter in sauce-pan
with one-half tablespoon flour and stir until heated; then add
small quantity of the liquid and stir smooth, add balance of
liquid and boil up. Pour over the vegetable and let simmer
for twenty minutes or more. Two tablespoons rich cream
added to the sauce gives rich flavor.
98. Scalloped Vegetable Oyster
Prepare the vegetable as in preceding recipe, slice very
thin, and cook until tender. Put layers of oysters in baking-
pan, dredging each layer with flour. To each pint of vege-
table thus prepared, heat one cup of milk to boiling, beat in
enough vegetable or .dairy butter, and salt to season; pour
this over the vegetable, and bake to a nice brown.
99. Cream Carrots
Wash and scrape young carrots, slice very thin; put in
covered sauce-pan with just enough water to cover them;
add a little vegetable or dairy butter and salt, and let simmer
until the liquor is reduced to about one-fourth. Add a little
rich cream or cream sauce and shake together; reheat and
serve.
100. Carrots Egg Sauce
Add chopped hard-boiled eggs to the above cream carrots.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
78 FOOD AND COOKERY
101. Stewed Carrots
Wash and scrape small carrots, cut in two lengthwise, then
cut crosswise into fairly thick slices. Take two cups carrots,
add water to cover and salt to taste. Let boil gently until
carrots are well done and the liquid reduced to one cupful.
Take two teaspoons vegetable or dairy butter, put in sauce-
pan with one-half tablespoon flour, stir over the fire for a
few minutes, add small quantity of the liquid of the carrots
and stir smooth, add balance of liquid and boil up, pour over
carrots and let simmer for twenty minutes. Two tablespoons
thick cream added to the roux in making the sauce gives
them a fine rich flavor.
102. Carrots and Peas
Use recipe for stewed carrots, adding equal quantities of
green peas and carrots.
103. Stewed Beets
Scrub small beets without breaking the skin; do not trim
the roots, or 'the juice will run out. Boil until tender, drain,
cover with cold water, and push off the skins with the hands.
Cut each beet into eighths lengthwise, put two tablespoons
vegetable or dairy butter in sauce-pan with two tablespoons
flour, cook over fire for a few minutes; add one-fourth cup
cold water and stir smooth; pour on three-fourths cup boil-
ing water, and stir until it boils up well. Add two table-
spoons lemon juice and salt to taste; add the beets, reheat,
and let them stand a little while before serving. A few
chopped onions may be added to the roux in making the
sauce, if desired.
104. Buttered Beets
Cook the beets same as above; and slice them thin. Put
them in sauce-pan with salt and enough vegetable or dairy
butter to season; add a little lemon juice, reheat, and serve.
(USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.)
FOOD AND COOKERY 79
105. Scalloped Beets
Add enough rich cream sauce to sliced boiled beets to
moisten them, and lay in baking-pan, grate fresh crumbs
over top, moistening them with a little milk or cream. Put
small bits of vegetable or dairy butter on top, and brown in
the oven.
106. Stewed Turnips
Pare young turnips; and cut them into quarters or eighths.
Put them into sauce-pan with water to barely cover them;
add salt and let simmer until done and the water mostly
absorbed. Add a little rich cream or cream sauce, shake
together, reheat, and serve.
107. Baked Parsnips
Wash and scrape parsnips; cut them lengthwise into slices
about one-fourth inch thick. Put them to boil in just enough
water to cover and salt to season. When tender, remove
from sauce-pan, and lay them close together in an oiled bak-
ing-pan; pour over them enough rich cream sauce to about
half cover them; bake to a nice brown.
108. Spinach
Pick the greens over carefully, wash in several waters to
remove grit. If the greens are very tender, lift them out
of the water and drain well; put them in sauce-pan with a
little salt and vegetable or dairy butter to season, adding no
water; cover and cook until done, turning the greens over in
pan now and then. When greens are more matured, cook
them in deep water with the cover off; when done, drain and
chop them; add vegetable or dairy butter and salt to taste.
Reheat, serve with quartered lemon, of hard-boiled egg, or
both.
109. Cream Spinach
Boil the spinach in salted water as in above recipe, drain
and chop fine. Put two tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter
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80 FOOD AND COOKERY
in sauce-pan on stove, add two tablespoons flour and stir for
a few minutes; then add one scant cup hot rich milk or cream;
adding one-third cup first and stirring smooth; boil up, salt
to taste and add chopped spinach. Reheat, serve with
quartered hard-boiled egg if desired. Other greens may be
used instead of spinach.
110. Boiled Onions
Remove outer skins from one dozen small white onions;
put to cook in just enough water to make the sauce for them.
Put one and one-half tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter
in sauce-pan, add two tablespoons flour, stir over fire for a
minute. Add one-fourth cup cold water and stir until smooth ;
then add the onion water to make the sauce of the desired
thickness, season with salt; pour over the onions, reheat,
and serve. Salt should be added while cooking. A little
rich cream added last improves them.
111. Cream Onions
Prepare and cook onions as in preceding recipe, drain and
add rich cream or cream sauce; reheat, and serve.
112. Stuffed Bell Peppers
6 medium-sized bell peppers. V4 cup stewed tomato.
\Vz cups soaked bread (pressed out).
1 tablespoon chopped parsley. 3 tablespoons browned flour.
1M> tablespoons vegetable or dairy butter. 1 egg.
2 tablespoons chopped onion. sage and salt.
Split four peppers through lengthwise, remove the seeds
and stem, and drop them in boiling salted water for three
minutes; drain. Cut up two whole peppers into small dice
and put into sauce-pan with the onion, parsley, sage and
butter, and cook over the fire for a few minutes. Add the
