THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
Food Facts
for the Home- Maker
Food Facts
for the Home- Maker
BY
LUCILE STIMSON HARVEY, A.M.
Town Dietitian, Brookline, Mass.
BOSTON AND NEW YORK
HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY
THE RIVERSIDE PRESS CAMBRIDGE
I92O
4 -* >*J >"* **rf "A
1 1 7 o < 8
COPYRIGHT, 1920, BY LUCILE STIMSON HARVEY
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
"' 4.
TX
2.B5
TO
E. A. H.
PREFACE
THIS book is intended to be a help to the young house-
keeper who is starting out in the new home without
either a knowledge of science or the technical training
which could help her. This is more often the case of the
girl who has been to college and has devoted her time
to other subjects outside the home, so that she starts in
handicapped on the business of home-making, than it
is the case of her sister who has stayed at home and
has been trained there by her mother.
The book is also intended to help those women who
have kept house for years and who are excellent cooks
and careful planners. It should give a scientific founda-
tion to their technical skill, showing them the reasons
why they have been doing certain things all their lives,
and perhaps showing them ways in which they may
shorten processes and thus save time and energy.
In preparing this book I have used material I have
been gathering for some years, but this has been modi-
fied, or at least clarified, by what I have learned in ten
years' experience in my own home, where for much of
the time I have done all the cooking. I have used some
of this material in my lectures during the past two
years and a half in my classes in Dietetics for the Red
Cross, in Food Conservation at Wellesley College, and
at the Brookline Food Center under the auspices of the
Public Safety Committee.
Few women realize the great importance of the
proper feeding of the family. Undernourishment among
viii PREFACE
our children in the United States is far more prevalent
than is generally supposed, and is found quite as often
in the homes of the well-to-do as in those of the poor.
It is the result of ignorance rather than of poverty or
the high cost of food. Children need a well-chosen but
simple diet.
This book is written primarily to show mothers how
they can feed their children easily and economically.
A little attention to the subject by the home-makers
will make the greatest difference to the nation in pro-
ducing strong, well-nourished men and women, cap-
able of doing their part in carrying the great responsi-
bilities placed upon our country at this time. I have a
great hope that the mothers and home-makers of
America will take the lessons of this book to heart and
that it may play some real part in giving us a stronger
and sterner race.
This book, while it contains some recipes, is not in-
tended to compete with cook-books, but rather to sup-
plement them. I have kept the order of material
customarily used in cook-books, that of following the
courses of a dinner. This necessitated the present order
of the two chapters on fats and sugars. If I had adhered
more closely to the discussion of foods according to
their chemical composition, these two chapters would
have appeared in reverse order.
Acknowledgment is due to the Department of Uni-
versity Extension of the Board of Education of the
Commonwealth of Massachusetts for permission to
use, in chapter xiv, the material which I prepared two
years ago for the Department course entitled "Foods
and Nutrition." I also wish to take this opportunity to
PREFACE
ix
thank the Walter M. Lowney Company of Boston for
permitting me to reprint the plates showing the cutting
of meat from the Lowney Cook-Book (The Walter M.
Lowney Co., Boston, 1908). I am indebted to my sister
Dorothy Stimson, Ph.D., for her assistance in revising
the text.
L. S. H.
BROOKLINE, MASS.
September, 1919
CONTENTS
I. THE IMPORTANCE OF FOOD i
The housekeeper's responsibility ; the profession
of housekeeping; health dependent on food;
food habits
II. THE KITCHEN AS A WORKSHOP 6
Skilled labor in the kitchen; plan of kitchen;
kitchen equipment: labor-saving devices; stoves;
care of stoves; refrigerators; sink; utensils;
cleanliness essential; dish-washing; personal
cleanliness
III. THE COMPOSITION OF FOODS 17
What is a "food " ; water; carbohydrates: starch
and sugars, woody fiber; fats; protein; mineral
matter: iron, calcium, sodium, potassium;
"vitamines"
IV. MILK AND EGGS 26
Dairying, an essential industry; make-up of
milk; value of milk as food; how to use milk;
care of milk ; grades of milk ; value of skimmed
milk. Eggs : how to cook ; care of eggs
Recipes : milk soups ; egg dishes
V. MEAT 42
What it is made of; what makes meat tough;
cuts of beef ; ways of cooking meat ; soup-mak-
ing; roasting; broiling; stewing; poultry: to
dress a chicken ; to truss a bird ; giblets
Recipes : soup stock ; stews ; other meat dishes
VI. FISH 69
Groups of fish; buying fish; preserving of fish;
care of fish
Recipes : baked fish ; fillets of fish ; salt fish ; shell-
fish
xii CONTENTS
VII. OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES: CHEESE AND LEGUMES 85
Cheese: food value; kinds; ripening; digestion
of; care in the home; use in the diet
Legumes: value as food; how to use; peanuts;
nuts
Recipes: cheese dishes; pea and bean soups;
legumes as meat substitutes
VIII. CEREALS 105
Changes starch undergoes; source of starch;
structure of kernel; use of grains for food;
milling; grains used for bread-making; barley;
corn ; oats ; rice ; rye ; breakfast cereals ; cooking
of cereals
Recipes: cereal soups; baked dishes; oatmeal
pudding
IX. FLOUR MIXTURES 120
Wheat ; flours ; proportions for mixtures ; effect
of ingredients; methods of mixing; leavening
agents; soda and sour milk; baking-powders;
yeast
Recipes : muffins ; breads ; cakes
X. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 145
Composition ; a source of minerals ; a source of
" vitamines " ; grouping of vegetables; cooking
of vegetables; uses of fruit; summary of the
cooking of vegetables; pectin
Recipes : vegetable soups ; potato dishes ; vege-
tables
XL FATS 164
Digestion; need to save fats; nature of; use of;
table fats; cooking fats: animal, vegetable;
place in the diet; rules to avoid waste; render-
ing; care
Recipes : savory fats ; salad dressings ; salads
XII. SUGAR 181
Value as food; danger of improper use; sugar
supply; kinds of sugars; complex, cane; simple,
glucose, fruit; action on boiling; caramel; how
to use sugar
CONTENTS xiii
Recipes : candy ; starch puddings ; fruit pud-
dings; pudding sauces; gelatine desserts;
whipped-cream desserts; frozen desserts
XIII. FOOD ACCESSORIES: BEVERAGES AND CONDI-
MENTS 211
Place of tea and coffee in the diet; tea, kinds,
how to make; coffee; cocoa; fruit drinks;
herbs ; spices ; extracts ; pickles
Recipes : coffee ; chocolate ; cold drinks ; mar-
malades; conserves; pickles
XIV. THE USE OF FOOD IN THE BODY 229
The process one of combustion ; the organs of
digestion: mouth, stomach, intestines; influ-
ences for good digestion; absorption; the uses
of food in the body; elimination of wastes
XV. THE MEASUREMENT OF FOOD VALUES 238
The body need for fuel; fuel foods; the heat
unit, the calorie; ico-calorie portions; a suf-
ficient diet ; dietary standards ; need for build-
ing material; protein needed; other sub-
stances needed
XVI. THE MAKING OF MENUS 248
Cost of food; five food groups; division of
food into meals; variety essential; breakfast;
luncheon and supper; dinner
Menus for dinners
XVII. FOOD FOR INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN 260
Mother's milk best; conditions affecting
breast feeding; modifying cow's milk; other
foods for infants; regular feeding hours;
cereal gruels added; other additions to the
diet; good habits formed early; food for child
2 to 5 years old. Sample diets: 12 months,
1 8 months, 2 to 4 years old. List of foods
allowed a child 2 to 4 years old
Recipes : infant foods
XVIII. FOOD FOR SCHOOL-CHILDREN 273
Good supply necessary for growth; signs of
good health; the right food; vagaries harm-
ful; the problem of lunch; the school lunch.
xiv CONTENTS
Menu for school lunch-box
Recipes : cookies
__^~*~r
XIX. FOOD FOit-tNVALiD^ 282
Typical invalid diets; serving; food require-
ment in sickness; food for slight illnesses:
colds, digestive troubles; food for special dis-
eases: fevers, tuberculosis, diabetes, gout and
rheumatism
Recipes: invalid drinks, gruels, puddings
jellies
ABBREVIATIONS AND A TABLE OF MEASURES 293
BIBLIOGRAPHY 295
INDEX 301
Food Facts
for the Home-Maker
Food Facts
For the Home-Maker
CHAPTER I
THE IMPORTANCE OF FOOD
THERE is one thing all men have in common with the
animals the necessity for daily food. For rich and
poor alike a certain amount of food is necessary to
keep the body in good condition. But the three meals
a day, three hundred and sixty-five days in the year,
are the bane of housekeepers the world over. They
must be planned, prepared, and served with unvary-
ing regularity in order to maintain the health and
efficiency of the family.
Although each household has different conditions
to meet which make the problem more or less distinct,
at the same time there are world problems T^ h ouse .
and situations to-day which put us all on keeper's re-
much the same footing whether we keep s P nsibmt y
house in our own homes or depend upon hotels and
restaurants for our meals. The war has brought us
face to face with the fact that each individual, in
regard to the food he consumes as well as in other
respects, is no longer a unit by himself, but is a part
of the community, and is responsible to the world at
large for his likes and dislikes, or for the surplus he
consumes over and above his actual needs.
2 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
This situation is true not for war-time alone. As one
result of the war it ought to be brought home to each
of us that we have a responsibility for food shortage
wherever it exists. We should have a part to play at
all times in alleviating and controlling famine condi-
tions whether in Armenia, Serbia, India, China, or
wherever else the situation is less favorable than it is
for us here in America.
But it is not only these extraordinary conditions in
far-away lands which should cause us to take more
heed to our food. We have learned some facts here at
home during the last two years which should give us
pause and make us wonder if we have put all of our
great wealth of national resources to the best possible
use. Why should such a large proportion of our boys,
coming in most instances directly out of our homes,
have to be rejected by the draft boards the country
over as unfit for service? Would our girls have shown
up any better? Why should fifty per cent of our chil-
dren in our public schools be below normal in weight?
Yet such is the case in the cities and towns where
investigations have been made. Why should the
United States be the only country where the death-
rate is increasing between the ages of thirty-five and
fifty-five, the period during which the individual
should be of the greatest economic value to the State?
Do not all these matters come straight home to the
housekeeper? Is she doing her job as well as it ought
The profes- to be done? No man starts in business at
sion of the top, nor in this day does he begin to
eepmg p rac ^j ce a profession unless he has spent
much time in preliminary training. Housekeeping is a
profession of vital importance to the health of the
THE IMPORTANCE OF FOOD 3
nation as a whole; for a nation is only an aggregation
of homes, and as a chain is only as strong as its weakest
link, so the strength of a nation is only the strength of
its weakest home. The individuals from such a home
have to be cared for by the State or the community as
a whole. This, then, makes the housekeeper or home-
maker the most important member of the community,
for the value of her services is judged by the economic
worth and fitness for life of the citizens who come
from her home.
From this point of view it is evident that in order
to make the profession of housekeeping a success, the
fundamentals at least should be understood. Even
college graduates going into business start at the bot-
tom in order to become familiar with business methods.
A mastery of the principles of the business of house-
keeping is just as essential. This includes touching on
many branches of science, biology, botany, physics,
physiology, psychology, economics, and above all,
chemistry. Besides this, a housekeeper should have
some technical training; for, while experience is the
best teacher, we can always gain in quickness of
method and sureness of results from the experience of
somebody else. This valuable home-maker of ours
should also have some imagination and ingenuity,
together with self-assurance, so that she need not be
bound by a cook-book and prescribed equipment, but
could use what material and utensils she has at hand
and still produce satisfactory meals. She must also be
able to gain variety through change of flavors, or
manner of serving appealing to the senses of the
individuals to be served.
Each home-maker must necessarily know the indi-
4 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
vidual requirements of her group and regulate her
Health de- meals accordingly. Too scanty food pre-
pendent vents growth and lowers vitality, mental
as well as physical; so much so that mal-
nutrition is acknowledged by social workers to be a
cause of backwardness, drunkenness, and crime. Too
much food, on the other hand, dulls the mind and
clogs the body. Poor choice may mean loss of a day's
work, or the lowering of efficiency because of a head-
ache or other minor ill. How often we hear, "So-and-So
has one of her bilious attacks"; or, "Daughter has a
sick headache to-day." Improper food also lowers the
power of resistance to disease and causes susceptibility
to colds.
In order to maintain the highest mental and spirit-
ual life, the physical should be kept in such good
working order as to be entirely subconscious. We can-
not do our best mental work when we are conscious of
the lunch we have just eaten.
Nature plans wonderfully. An animal, when left to
itself, will pick out of a wide variety of foods those
articles which will be most conducive to its health and
growth. Instinct, however, cannot be relied on en-
tirely in the training of children. Complete loss of
appetite is usually the first symptom in most illnesses,
and an abnormal craving for some one particular type
of food may mean the need of the body for some
special ingredient in that food. Whims and fancies are
very easily acquired, however, and whenever possible
should be avoided.
Habits and traditions have also grown up through
the years concerning our food, and we still hear an
ignorant nursemaid urge a child to eat the crusts in
order to have curly hair, or tell an older child fish will
give him brains. A meat diet has had to p
bear the blame for crime and misery for
years.
Certain of our habits, however, are based on a
scientific foundation. There is a reason for eating
butter on our bread, or for serving pork with baked
beans, or cheese with rice or macaroni. Nutrition is an
exact science, and has been built up slowly through
the years from the studies and investigations made by
many famous scientists, each one adding one more
round to the ladder of knowledge. Some of the steps
have been: the discovery of the circulation of the
blood; the function of oxygen in the body; the evolu-
tion and measurement of heat and energy from food
in the body; the composition of foods and their rela-
tion to body activity; and the recent discovery, the
presence or absence in foods of certain substances that
are essential to growth.
New discoveries and new studies are constantly
being made with which the housekeeper should keep
in touch. They are popularized sooner or later in some
of the magazines, but the best way to keep accurately
informed is to have one's name put on the mailing list
for the Farmers' Bulletins, Bureau of Publications,
Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C.
CHAPTER II
THE KITCHEN AS A WORKSHOP
IN these days when human labor is in great demand
and can command high wages, it is more necessary
Skilled labor than ever to conserve effort in every pos-
in the kitchen sfo\Q W ay. If the home-maker is paying
somebody else to do her necessary housework, she
should see that the conditions are such that it can be
done with no waste of time or energy; while if she is
doing her own work, she should plan so that she will
still have time to devote to the enjoyment of her chil-
dren and to share in activities outside her home, of
which there are so many nowadays of interest to wide-
awake women. The time has passed when the mother
of the family is the household drudge working hard
from six or before in the morning until eight or nine at
night, often too tired to take any part in the family
recreations, and too absorbed within her own narrow
horizon to be interested in what is going on in the
world around her.
Many of our business concerns are employing effi-
ciency experts to come into the factory or the store
or the office, to study the methods used and to make
recommendations for the saving of time here, the sim-
plification of books there, or the use of more modern
machinery or equipment in another place. Why should
we not do the same in our business of home-making?
It is easier to go on day after day doing the same thing
over and over in the same way. Yet if we stop to think
THE KITCHEN AS A WORKSHOP 7
about it, the saving of one trip across the kitchen here
or of two minutes in the washing of the dishes there,
each time, would count up to six minutes saved each
day, forty-two minutes each week, and in a month to
enough time to have amounted to much value if put
into good reading.
The old-fashioned kitchen was an attractive place
to look at, large and airy, often opening directly out of
doors on two sides, with its spotless pine floor and its
numerous pantries and closets especially interesting
to curious and ever-hungry youngsters. But what a
slave the woman was who ruled in such a place, and
how hard her work was made for her! For years and
years she had to pump, often at some distance from
the house, all the water she used, carry it in by bucket
and heat it on the stove. Dishwashing then was in-
deed an undertaking compared with dishwashing to-
day in our modern apartments where we have only to
turn the faucet to have scalding water at all hours of
the day and night. Then, too, the distances were so
great between closet and stove, and stove and sink,
that even if the family ate their meals in the kitchen,
the cook must necessarily walk miles in preparing a
meal. No wonder she was often too weary to eat any of
it herself when she finally had it ready for the family.
In planning a kitchen there are two aims which
should be kept in mind. The first is to secure cleanli-
ness as easily as possible ; the other, to Plan of
make sure of the comfort and convenience ^t^ 611
of the worker. Thus the small kitchen has a great
advantage over the large one. Where utensils are near
at hand, many steps are saved and hence much energy.
In these times of economy it is well not to overlook
8 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
the fact that in order to have enough energy we must
burn up food in the body; hence by avoiding waste of
energy, we have an effective method of saving food.
It should be kept in mind that a kitchen is a place
for work, with a definite job to be accomplished
those three meals a day. A carpenter does not keep
his hammer and his saw in one closet off at one side of
his shop, his nails and screws in another, and his lum-
ber in a third. He has everything close at hand, grouped
conveniently about his work-bench. He can stand still
and yet reach all his tools. A place for everything and
everything in its place. So should it be in the kitchen.
To be sure, it does not look as attractive between
meals, when everything is cleared away, as does the
one that has pretty muslin curtains and pots of flowers
in the windows, a rocking-chair in the corner, and blue-
and-white portieres in all the closet doors, and not a
pot or pan, knife, spoon, or brush in sight. But that is
a sitting-room, not a workshop.
Everything about the kitchen should if possible be
easily washable. Tiled walls are ideal but expensive,
and an enamel paint that can be easily wiped off with
a damp cloth is very satisfactory. Linoleum on the
floor is more easily washed than wood and is softer
under foot than tile or concrete. Oilcloth makes a good
covering for closet shelves, and so does enamel paint.
Tables can now be bought having enamel or a white
composition top ; they are very easily cleaned and look
well also.
If one is fortunate enough to be building a house or
can make suggestions at the time of building, it is well
to put much thought into the arrangement of the
kitchen so as to have it convenient. Plans of model
THE KITCHEN AS A WORKSHOP 9
kitchens can be found in books on Household Manage-
ment ; but there are a few points to be especially noted.
The sink should be well lighted both by day and night,
so it should be just under or beside a window. Steps
are saved by having the stove within easy reach of the
sink, for much of the food to be cooked is prepared at
the sink and kettles must be filled with water there.
A kitchen-cabinet on the wall opposite the sink is far
more convenient than pantries. Here the housekeeper
can keep all the utensils as well as the materials needed
in making breadstuff s, cake, pastry, etc., and has at
hand the pastry-board and space for mixing. With an
easily moved table on which hot pots can be placed,
and the dishes after washing, and with shelves for
china, the equipment is complete.
There should be a shelf over or near the stove for
salt, pepper, sauces, and flavors used at the stove.
There should also be plenty of hooks over or beside
the sink for utensils used at the sink, such as soap-
shaker, sink-brush and shovel, egg-beater, meat-forks
and skewers, vegetable-brush, potato-masher, whisks,
etc. Each should have its own hook and should always
be returned to that hook. No article should be there
that is not in constant use. Also they should hang
sufficiently high so as not to interfere with the cleaning
of the sink. Articles to be used together should be kept
together, such as teapot and tea canister, coffee, coffee-
pot and coffee-grinder.
It is best, if possible, not to have the refrigerator in
the kitchen itself because of the heat; but it should be
easily accessible both for the iceman and the cook. If
it can stand in an entry, the iceman does not tramp
through the kitchen bringing in dirt from the street.
io FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT
Many of us have to take our kitchens as we find
them, and have no say as to the relative positions of
Labor-saving the permanent fixtures. We can, however,
devices see th a t; the utensils and equipment are as
they should be. More and more so-called "labor-saving
devices" are to be had until it is easy to conceive of the
kitchen in the future in which electricity will not only
be the means of light and heat, but will also be the
motive force for nearly everything, not only for dish-
washers, but also for bread-mixers, ice-cream freezers,
egg-beaters, etc. We are so accustomed to the Dover
egg-beater, the Universal bread-mixer, the meat-
chopper, that we can hardly think of them as being
labor-saving devices ; yet a woman cooking for a good-
sized family would not be without them. The efficient
home-maker should be constantly on the watch for
new devices that may really be a means of saving time
and labor for her.
The ideal system for cooking, whether it be coal,
gas, or electricity, is the one which gives the largest
possible percentage of its heat for the
Stoves , . . ,r . ,
cooking process itself without waste into
the room, and at the same time puts a definite amount
of heat under quick control with a great saving of fuel
and labor in operating. Measured by this standard, the
coal range is not ideal, since it loses much heat into the
room, so much in fact that it is customary not to pro-
vide any other means of heating the kitchen where
there is a coal range. It is also very slow to control,
though many like the results obtained, especially from
the oven in baking. It also has the advantage over a
THE KITCHEN AS A WORKSHOP n
gas stove of constant low heat for soups, stews, and
other long-process cookery. It is dirty to care for, how-
ever, and requires much energy in carrying coal and
ashes. On the other hand, both gas stoves and electric
ones have the advantage of being easy to control and
to keep clean. When used in connection with a fireless
cooker separately or as a part of the stove itself, either
is far preferable to a coal or wood range for convenience
and economy. Gas or electric stoves combined with
fireless cookers can be found on the market nowadays.
Whatever variety of stove is used, it must be thor-
oughly understood and kept in good order. A coal
stove should be taken apart and the drafts _
Care of stoves
and dampers studied carefully, so that the
effect of each is well known. The underlying principle
of all stoves is the same; that is, a fire to burn well
must have plenty of air, as all burning is combustion,
or the uniting of a substance with the oxygen of the
air. In lighting a fire in the stove we empty the grate
completely. Then we place the most inflammable ma-
terial at the bottom paper, excelsior, or shavings.
The less easily ignited conies next chips or kindling
and the hardest of all on top coal or large pieces
of wood. Before applying a match, we make sure that
the drafts are correct. The one in the chimney should
be wide open; the slide below the fire-bed should be
open and the one above it closed; for the air must
come through the fire from below and be able to pass
unblocked straight up the chimney. When the fire is
burning well, it may be checked by closing the chimney
damper all or part way, and also the slide below the
fire-bed. Care must always be taken to prevent so
great a flow of cold air against the bottom of the fire
12 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
as will check its combustion. If the oven is to be used,
the oven damper must be closed, which forces the hot
air to pass around the oven box before going up the
chimney. To check the fire completely, the slide above
the fire-bed should be opened to enable the cold air to
blow in on top of the coals.
No fuel should come above the bricks in the fire-box,
and never should the fire be allowed to get so hot as to
make the top of the stove red, as that warps the iron.
The same principle of combustion is found in a gas
stove, the air uniting at the point of burning with the
gas coming through the pipe. The flame of a gas stove
should be blue with a light-blue center. If it burns with
a yellow flame, it is not adjusted correctly and the gas
company should be notified. The oven doors of a gas
stove should always be left open while it is being
lighted until all the burners have caught, in order to
prevent a pocket of unburned gas from collecting in
the oven.
Stoves of all types must be kept clean. They should
be rubbed often with paper, and anything spilt in the
oven should be scraped up carefully. Gas-burners as
well as the tops of a gas stove can be removed and
washed thoroughly at the sink with boiling water and
washing-soda. Blacking makes stoves look better and
preserves the iron.
The principle of a refrigerator is to preserve food
through low temperature obtained by the melting of
ice. In order to melt, ice must absorb
Refrigerators , , . ... ., , ,,
heat, and in a refrigerator it draws this
heat from the other compartments. Hence a perfect
refrigerator should be so built that it cannot absorb
heat from outside and has perfect circulation of air in-
THE KITCHEN AS A WORKSHOP 13
side. In buying a refrigerator, much must be left to the
honesty of the dealer so far as the outside structure is
concerned; but the purchaser can see for herself if
there is allowance for good circulation inside and if it
can be kept clean easily. Every refrigerator should be
so built as to have a space between each compartment,
so that the warm air rising from the food may pass
over the ice at the top and the cold air from the ice-
chamber may go down to the compartment below.
A white lining, either tile or enamel, is attractive
and dirt is easily seen; but if it cracks or chips easily
it is unsatisfactory. Shelves should be removable, and
if made of wire permit freer circulation of air than if of
glass or slate. If the floor of the refrigerator is flush
with the door, it can be more easily washed than if it
drops below, though in this case the door must shut
very tightly.
It is extremely important that a refrigerator should
be kept especially clean. Anything spilled must be
wiped up at once, and the whole inside given a thor-
ough washing with soda and water at least once a week.
Hot water should be poured down the waste pipe and
a long wire with brush end may be used to clean the
pipe. If it is connected directly with the sewer, it
should have a trap.
Do not forget to wash the inside of the doors when
washing the inside of the refrigerator.
If it is possible to have a word about the sink when
it is put in, be sure to have it set up high enough for
comfort ; also to see that it is large enough
to hold two dishpans comfortably, and
that it has a good-sized draining-board on each side if
possible. Porcelain sinks require a good deal of effort
14 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
to keep them clean, especially if strong soap-powders
have injured the finish; enamel on iron is apt to chip.
Soapstone is very satisfactory and can be kept in good
condition by frequent scrubbing with soap and a short-
bristled brush.
Every housekeeper has her own ideas on the subject
of utensils, her favorite type of material and her favor-
ut ils ^ e sna P e an d style. Aluminum is expen-
sive to begin with, but lasts a. long time if
it is of the best grade and gives very satisfactory serv-
ice. Where the water is hard, it discolors easily and re-
quires considerable effort to keep it bright. The heavy
gray enamel-ware also gives good service and is easy to
clean if not abused. As enamel-ware may be unsafe if
the enamel has been chipped off, the base metal not
being prepared to resist acids in the food, it is well to
buy a good quality to begin with and to take good care
of it.
The kitchen is more than a workshop. It is a labora-
tory where food is prepared for family consumption.
Cleanliness As such, absolute cleanliness is of first im-
essential portance with everything pertaining to its
preparation. All food delivered to the house should
come wrapped up. No town should permit flesh prod-
ucts to be carried through its streets uncovered, or to
be hung outside stores for display. Fruit and vegeta-
bles should be very carefully washed before serving, as
they have been exposed to the dirt of the street as well
as to much handling. Dry groceries can be kept in
glass or enamel jars to prevent dust falling in them,
and should never be left in paper bags or opened car-
tons.
Cooked food should be carefully covered and cooled
THE KITCHEN AS A WORKSHOP 15
before putting into the refrigerator. It should be re-
moved from the dining-room china or glass and put
onto plates kept for that purpose. No food, no matter
how small a quantity, should be thrown away.
Freshly cooked breadstuffs should be cooled on an open
rack before putting away in a well-aired and sunned
bread-box.
Plates should be scraped into a drainer in the sink.
Very greasy ones could be wiped off with soft paper
which is then burnt. All dishes are then
piled on the left side of the sink ready for
washing. Rinse the milk and egg glasses with cold wa-
ter. Use two dishpans, one containing very hot soapy
water, and the other very hot clear water for rinsing.
Wash glassware first, then silver, then the cleanest of
the china, leaving the dinner plates and platter until
last. Have a wire or wooden drainer to the right of the
rinsing-pan, and as the dishes are rinsed stand them in
the drainer. If the water is very hot, they will need
practically no drying. If they are washed and put in
the drainer in the reverse order from which they can
be stacked when dry, it saves handling them twice;
that is, if the dinner plates are washed last, they are
dried first and can be at the bottom of the pile when
ready to put away.
Three towels should be used for wiping dishes and
should be kept for their separate uses: a soft linen
towel for glass and silver; a heavier linen for china; and
a heavy crash one for pots and pans. If towels are used
carefully and always rinsed out after each dish-washing,
they will last a long time. They should also be given a
thorough boiling at least once a week.
No matter how much care the worker in the kitchen
16 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
takes with the food and the utensils, it is all of no avail
Personal if she herself is not immaculate in her per-
cleanliness son an( ^ her habits. The kitchen is no
place in which to wear a dress too old and too soiled
to be worn any longer in the parlor; but it demands
a suitable uniform of its own. The dress worn here
should be a cotton one, easily laundered, and so made
as to be perfectly comfortable, with short sleeves, low
collar, short skirt, and plenty of room. The hair should
be kept very neat and should be confined if possible by
a net or close-fitting cap.
It is most essential that the hands and finger-nails
should be kept with the utmost care, frequently
washed, and always after coming from the toilet. Even
then the hands should be kept out of food just as much
as possible. It is not necessary to use the hands in order
to get good results, as many old-fashioned cooks will
tell you. Cake and baking-powder biscuit can both be
made very satisfactorily without putting the hands in
the mixture at all, and if the bread-mixer is used for
making bread, that process too may be carried on with-
out handling the dough. A palette knife (and not the
finger) should be used for scraping out the mixing-
bowl, and never should food be tasted from the
stirring-spoon. A tasting-spoon may be kept for the
purpose and not put into the whole mass, but some
dipped out onto it with the stirring-spoon.
This standard of cleanliness is easily achieved and
should be accepted as attainable.
CHAPTER III
THE COMPOSITION OF FOODS
BEFORE looking into the composition of food, it is well
to understand just what is meant by the term "food."
In order to be a "food" a substance must what is a
be fitted to serve a definite function in the " food "
body. The body must be fed in order to live. This liv-
ing process is twofold, as we will see later. One half is
the generating of the power to perform daily duties
walking, eating, breathing and the keeping of the
body warm; the other is the constant adding to the
body structure which is called growth or repair of tis-
sue. Hence our definition for "food" is any substance
which when taken into the body will either produce
heat and energy or build tissue.
Every substance can be taken apart by a chemist in
his laboratory in order to show of what it is made. If
the parts still maintain the characteristic properties
of the whole, no matter into how small particles it may
be subdivided, that substance is called an element. For
instance, a wedding-ring may be broken up and sub-
divided into particles so small they could only be seen
under the microscope, and still each particle would
show all the properties of gold. Gold is an element. So
also are silver, lead, iron, zinc, copper, and other sub-
stances, both solid and gaseous, to a limited extent,
which in combination or singly make all matter as we
see it around us.
18 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
*
WATER
Our food substances, like other matter, are made up
of certain definite chemical elements. The simplest food
substance is water, in which we have a combination
of only two elements, hydrogen and oxygen, twice as
much hydrogen as oxygen.
Water plays a large and important part in our life,
entering into the structure of all matter, even into
what appears to the eye to be dry. Since water makes
up two thirds of the weight of the entire body, great
care should be exercised to see that plenty is provided
with the diet. There should be at least six glasses a day
for children and eight glasses a day for adults.
It is also important that the water should be pure,
for serious diseases may be introduced into the body
through a contaminated water supply. Some of these
are typhoid fever, diphtheria, and dysentery. It is
never safe to drink from streams and brooks receiving
the drainage of a valley; and wells should be placed
with great care so as not to get either the surface or the
sub-strata drainage from cesspools and barnyards.
STARCHES AND SUGARS
When we find a third element, carbon, in combina-
tion with hydrogen and oxygen, we have a large group
. . . of food substances. In some of these the
Carbohydrates
same relation exists between the hydrogen
and the oxygen as is found in water, twice as much of
the former as of the latter. Hence this group of sub-
stances is given the descriptive name of carbohydrates.
They are just what the name implies, combinations of
carbon with hydrogen and oxygen in the same propor-
tion that occurs in water.
THE COMPOSITION OF FOODS 19
Foods of this group are familiar to all and are in con-
stant use. They yield energy to the body, but do not
build tissue. Starch is one of them, and is .
the same substance chemically whether
found in the potato or in wheat, in cornstarch or in
tapioca, the difference being merely a matter of refin-
ing. Foods containing starch breadstuff's and cere-
als make up a larger part of our diet than any one
other food ; and rightly so, since they are of vegetable
origin and are less expensive than meat. They are also
less costly to the nation as a whole; because it is better
economy to obtain our food from the vegetable king-
dom direct than to feed it to animals and then eat the
flesh of the animal. Care, however, should be exercised
not to have too much starchy food in the diet. It
should never make up more than one third of the
total bulk, and it should be used with a larger quan-
tity of fruits and vegetables than many housekeep-
ers are in the habit of serving. This will be more
fully explained in a later chapter.
Other familiar carbohydrates are the sugars. These
vary somewhat one from another chemically, but those
obtained from the cane, the beet, and the c
ougars
maple-tree are all the same. Others are
found in fruits and help to give this class of foods their
value in the diet. Sugar should be looked upon as a
valuable food, but should be used in its proper place
with intelligence. It will be discussed more fully in
chapter xm.
There is yet another substance which comes under
this head of carbohydrates, although it Woody fi j, er
is not a food proper in that it does not
nourish the body. This is the substance which makes
20 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
up the basic structure of all vegetation and is known as
woody fiber, or cellulose. It has its function to play in
the diet in the form of bulk, without which the diet
becomes too concentrated and binding. If it is not
sufficiently plentiful in the form of fruits and vegeta-
bles, it must sometimes be introduced by bran muffins
and coarse breadstuffs. The tendency is for our diet to
be too refined, and this is the chief cause of the great
American trouble, constipation. For this reason, if not
for any other, it would be well for all of us to return to
the coarsely ground meals and flours more in use in the
days of our grandmothers.
FATS
We have still another group of food substances con-
taining the three elements of carbon, hydrogen, and
oxygen, though they are not carbohydrates. These are
the fats. In them we find a larger proportion of hydro-
gen than we do of oxygen, which gives them the power
to unite with oxygen to a greater extent than can the
starches or sugars. This means that they can burn with
greater heat, and are therefore the best heat-produc-
ing foods we have . We have fats of both animal and
vegetable origin. Because of their great value as food,
they should be used with care and thought. We have
learned much from the war, and perhaps not the least
of the lessons has been the disastrous effect of a short-
age of fats upon the health of a nation. It is to be hoped
that we have learned this lesson well, and that it will
not be necessary in the future to call in the plumber
so often to cut out the waste fat from the kitchen
drain-pipe. The whole subject of fats is taken up in
chapter xil.
THE COMPOSITION OF FOODS 21
PROTEIN
As we continue the analytical study of our food sub-
stances, we next come to a group of foods of far greater
complexity of make-up than any we have met with so
far. It is the group which comprises primarily the flesh
products meat of all kinds, fish, eggs, milk, and
cheese. Into this group we can also put two classes of
food from the vegetable kingdom, the pulses or legumes
(beans and peas) and the nuts. It is found by analysis
that all of these substances contain an element entirely
lacking in carbohydrates and fats. This is nitrogen.
Without nitrogen there can be no life, for it enters into
the structure of all living tissue. Although it is around
us abundantly in the air we breathe, it is impossible for
us to utilize this nitrogen for our body structure and
we must obtain all that we need from our food alone.
Therefore this group of foods is especially important in
the diet. Because of the greater variety of flavor, the
group has grown to be the most popular of them all
and is used far more plentifully than is wise or neces-
sary. The family that "must have" meat three times a
day is putting too heavy a burden on the kidneys as
well as on the pocket-book.
This food substance containing nitrogen is known as
protein and is extremely complex in its chemical struc-
ture. The nitrogen is in close combination with the ele-
ments we have already discussed, hydrogen, oxygen,
and carbon, and also with several others sulphur,
phosphorus, and iron. There are many kinds of protein
substances that vary from one another in structure and
behavior, but when used as food they nearly all have
in common the power to build up body tissue. A surplus
22 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
of protein material in the diet over and above what is
needed for actual body structure, which in an adult is
only enough to repair waste tissue, is split up in the
body and partly burned for heat and energy, leaving
the nitrogenous waste products to be excreted by the
kidneys. Thus protein foods can perform both func-
tions of our definition for food. As it is the most expen-
sive class of foods we have, however, it should be kept
exclusively for tissue building, and food from the vege-
table kingdom should be relied on for all the energy
needed by the body.
MINERAL MATTER
If food material is actually burned in a stove, ashes
would be found just as from coal or wood; that is, the
food would not be completely consumed. The ash is
made up of mineral matter which does not readily
unite with oxygen at ordinary temperatures. This
mineral matter in our food would be largely iron,
calcium, sodium, potassium, and magnesium, while
chlorine would be driven off as a gas. All food sub-
stances contain more or less of these minerals even
though it may be only a trace ; but because of them one
group of foods in particular is especially valuable in
the diet. This group is comprised of all fruits and vege-
tables. Besides being in themselves very watery and also
being useful for their woody fiber, they are our chief
source of mineral matter, unless we except milk, from
which we obtain most of the much-needed calcium.
An average adult human body if burned would
leave about seven pounds of ashes. This mineral mat-
ter, which makes up the bony structure of the body,
enters into the nails, hair, and teeth, and also plays an
1 THE COMPOSITION OF FOODS 23
important part in the functioning of the different or-
gans and body fluids, must be provided in the food
particularly during the period of growth. This is an-
other reason for the importance of having plenty of
fruits and vegetables and also milk in the diet, particu-
larly in that of children.
Iron is needed to insure the proper functioning of
the blood. Without it the blood is unable to absorb the
oxygen taken into the lungs and to carry it to cells
where it is needed to burn up the food. A patient who is
lacking in iron is said to be anaemic. It is far better to
keep up the necessary amount of iron by such foods as
spinach and other greens, molasses, oatmeal, and eggs,
than it is to give the patient iron tonics. In the one case
the iron is in such combination with organic matter
that it can be easily assimilated by the body, whereas
in the tonic the iron is in inorganic combination and
cannot be so well used.
Calcium is needed for bone structure and is to be ob-
tained from milk more than from any other food. The
necessary daily requirement for an adult is found in
less than 11/4 pints of milk or in 2 1/2 ounces of
cheese, whereas it would take more than 7 pounds of
white flour to obtain it, or 21 pounds of beef, or 2 1/3
pounds of turnips, or 2 1/2 pounds of carrots. It is also
needed by the body for certain fluids in combination
with both sodium and magnesium.
Sodium is an essential constituent of the blood and
other body fluids. It helps in the making of the hydro-
chloric acid of the stomach. We use common salt,
which is sodium chloride, so plentifully on our food that
there is no doubt about there being a sufficient amount
in our diet.
24 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Potassium, another of the necessary minerals to assist
in the proper functioning of the body, is found in green
vegetables and fruits together with magnesium. If other
minerals are in sufficient amounts, these will be also.
It has been found through experimentation with
animals that a diet made up of purified protein, car-
bohydrates, and fats, with minerals in
Vitamines "
proper proportion, does not maintain life
and growth. By introducing one type of raw food after
another into this chemically pure diet, it was found
that in order to have normal growth, the animal must
have two types of substances hitherto unknown. These
substances have not as yet been isolated and so have
not been given definite chemical names. They are pop-
ularly known as "vitamines," but this is not a scientific
term. It is known, however, that one type of these
food accessory substances is found in a few fats, such
as butter fat, egg yolk, and cod-liver oil, in the organs
of animals such as liver, kidney, and sweetbreads, and
in the leaves of plants. It is known as "fat-soluble A"
for lack of a better name. The other is more abundant
and is present in all fruit, vegetables, and cereal grains,
though it is lost in the highly milled products made
from the grain where the endosperm alone is used.
It is called " water-soluble B." Here again we have
still another reason for the plentiful use of fruits and
vegetables, and also for the use of the coarser cereal
products.
It is perhaps difficult for the novice to distinguish
between all these different types of food substances,
but it is certainly easy to remember that the safest
diet is a varied one. We will go into this more fully
when we discuss the planning of meals.
THE COMPOSITION OF FOODS
Ij
Hydroge
Oxygen
Carbon
Nitrogen
Sulphur
Phosphorus
Iron
Calcium
Sodium
Magnesium
Potassium
Chlorine
.Water
.Carbohydrates: starch, sugar, cellulose
.Fats
.Protein: meat, fish, milk, eggs, cheese;
. pulses, nuts
. Mineral matter or ash: fruits and vege-
tables
CHAPTER IV
MILK AND EGGS
FOOD substances fall into five distinct groups accord-
ing to their chemical composition:
1. Those valuable for their mineral salts.
2. Those containing considerable protein: milk,
eggs, meat, etc.
3. Those characterized by their starch content:
flours, cereals, breadstuffs, etc.
4. Those with a preponderance of sugar.
5. Those largely fat.
The plan is to study the foods of each group sepa-
rately, beginning with the protein group because of its
importance in the diet and the simplicity which gov-
erns its cooking processes.
Of the protein group milk and eggs are by far the
most important members. It is only necessary to think
of the purpose for which nature intended them, to
realize how great their value is. In both cases they pro-
vide the entire food of the young animal until such
time as that animal is able to find food for itself; that
is, the milk and the egg not only are sufficient to keep
the young animal alive and warm, but are also able to
provide the material for building up the body. In the
case of the egg, the chicken is fully developed inside
the shell and gets no further sustenance than what was
originally there until it breaks out of its shell.
MILK AND EGGS 27
MILK
The maintenance of a dairy herd is considered to be
one of the industries essential to the life of a nation.
Dairy herds are the greatest single factor An essential
in public health and should be carefully iad^^y
conserved. Because the public as a whole does not
realize the full significance of this fact, the herds of
dairy cattle are being rapidly diminished in this coun-
try. Not only is milk a valuable source of food, so
much so in fact that if all the milk now produced in
this country were utilized to the fullest extent it would
supply one fourth of all the food needed by the people
in this country, but also a better return for a given
amount of fodder can be obtained in the form of milk
than in the form of meat. Further, it should not be for-
gotten, when attempts are being made to increase
agricultural production, that a dairy herd is also a val-
uable source of fertilizer.
Milk is called a "protective food" by Dr. McCul-
lom, since it contains all the essential elements for
growth. Its average composition is 87 per Make-up of
cent water, 4 per cent fat, 5 per cent sugar, mUk
3.3 per cent protein, and 0.7 per cent ash. It varies,
however, as to its fat content, particularly according to
the type of cow, a Jersey cow giving the richest milk
with often as high as 5 per cent fat, while the milk
from a Holstein is the poorest. Most States have fixed
the percentage of fat below which the milk must not
fall.
The composition of milk is easily seen in the home
by noting the changes it undergoes. When left to stand
the fat or cream rises to the top. When it grows sour it
28 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
separates into a solid, the curd, and a yellowish liquid,
the whey. If the curd should be heated, it would grow
tough and leathery, showing the same characteristics
that the white of an egg does when it is heated. Both
of these are protein material. The sugar and mineral
salts are in solution in the whey and cannot be identi-
fied on sight, but together with a soluble protein give
to whey, when it is separated from sweet milk, its
value as a food for some invalids. This sugar of milk
is not as sweet as that obtained from cane and should
always be used in modifying cow's milk for infants.
It does not ferment as readily and tends to correct
putrefaction in the intestines.
Of the ash or mineral salts present in milk, calcium is
especially important. Milk is the chief source of cal-
cium in all our foods and is especially needed for teeth
and bone structure. Since 2 per cent of the total body
weight is calcium, 67 grams of calcium should be sup-
plied each day in the ordinary diet. This is found in
one and one fourth pints of milk, so that, according to
Dr. Sherman, "every family should be using at the
rate of at least one third of a quart of milk per man
per day to provide for the calcium requirements of
that family." The iron content of milk is low, but that
can be made up for by the use of eggs and green vege-
tables.
One of the points in the value of milk as a food does
not show in its composition. This is the fact that it
has been proven to contain both of those food acces-
sory substances necessary for growth known as " vita-
mines." Hence a diet that is lacking in both milk and
butter, where the fat-soluble A is found, would be near
the danger line for lack of those substances. Dr. Me-
MILK AND EGGS 29
Cullom asserts that "the greatest factor of safety in
the human diet is the regular use of milk." Each adult
should use one pint a day, and each child from one and
a half pints to one quart a day.
We hear frequently, " It is all very well to talk about
the value of milk, but we cannot afford to use it at the
present price." When the price of milk Value of milk
went up because of perfectly obvious rea- as a food
sons, such as the high price of fodder and the scarcity
of labor, the total amount of money spent for milk was
actually less in one city than when the milk was
cheaper. And yet milk is a cheap food even at its pres-
ent price, compared with the cost of other foods and
the value received from them. In cutting down the
cost of the diet, the last place to cut is milk and the
first place to cut is meat. No family of five that is of
two adults and three children should buy meat until
it is using three quarts of milk a day. This is because
milk is a food and should not be looked upon just as a
beverage to be classed with tea and coffee merely be-
cause it happens to be in liquid form. One quart of
milk supplies practically as much protein and energy
as nine eggs or three .quarters of a pound of beef
of average composition, and can be bought for less
money. When milk is eighteen cents a quart, we get as
much food value for our eighteen cents spent for one
quart of milk as we should get for:
30 cents put into f pound of meat at 40 cents a pound;
45 "60 " ; or
45 ' 9 eggs at 60 cents a dozen.
It can be used as an economical substitute for meat or
eggs, though it is not as cheap a food as flour or other
cereal products.
30 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
This does not mean that milk should be used by the
glass necessarily, but it can and should be used in cook-
How to ing. The top of the bottle may be reserved
use milk f or use on ce real for breakfast or for des-
sert at dinner, and the rest of the bottle used in cream
soups, as chowders, vegetable soups, soups made from
dried peas and beans, etc. It can also be used for cream
sauces to make a little fish or meat go farther. These
can be served in a variety of ways, on toast, in patty
shells, in individual ramekins, or made up into souffles
or scalloped dishes. Then, too, it may come hard for
some people to get used to the idea of a dessert being
the meat dish of a meal, but such may be the case if
the dessert is largely made of milk as in rice, bread, or
cornstarch pudding, or in custard, or even ice-cream.
When a milk dish is served either as a soup or a des-
sert, the meat may be omitted altogether, and the rest
of the meal made up of breadstuffs, plenty of vegeta-
bles, or salad.
Milk is just as good a food for microscopic animals
as it is for larger ones, and as these multiply rapidly in
a warm medium and are present in large
Care of milk ,. e ,, , .
quantities in dust and dirt of all kinds,
cleanliness and cold are imperative in order to have
good milk. Milk may be easily a disease-carrier, bring-
ing contamination from the cow, the barn, the utensils
used, or the men handling it. The greater precautions
that are used to keep it clean, the higher must the price
be, of necessity; because these involve a greater ex-
penditure for equipment and for labor. It is safe to say,
as a rule, that the more we pay for our milk the cleaner
it is.
There are several grades on the market varying in
MILK AND EGGS 31
different localities in price and in name. A "certified"
milk is a raw milk produced in a single Grades of
dairy that has been especially inspected milk on the
and approved by a board of examiners. It market
is certified to contain not more than a fixed number of
bacteria to a cubic inch. Milk of this type is the safest
to use for infants and young children.
"Grade A" milk is a good household milk which has
usually been pasteurized. Some dealers make the dis-
tinction between Grade A and Grade B by having the
former come from a comparatively small group of
near-by farms, while the latter is an accumulation
from many farms often at quite a distance. Milk that
has been pasteurized has been heated to 145 F. and
kept there for twenty minutes, then cooled rapidly.
This is sometimes done with the milk in bulk, then
afterwards it is bottled; but it is better to have the
milk bottled first and then heated. This process tends
to kill the most harmful of the disease bacteria with-
out changing the characteristics of the milk. It must
be thoroughly understood, however, that when milk has
been so treated, it is not free from the possibility of
further contamination. It is still a good culture for
whatever micro-organisms may find their way into it.
The process of pasteurization should not be con-
founded with that of sterilization. This latter is heating
the milk to the boiling point three successive times, or
iholding it at boiling point for thirty minutes. This in-
sures the killing of all bacteria present in the milk, and
should always be done if the milk is known to be, or
even thought to be, contaminated. It is also wise to
sterilize all milk before giving it to a child who runs up
a temperature which cannot be accounted for in any
other way.
32 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
After a reliable dealer has been chosen and a suita-
ble grade of milk purchased, care should be taken in
the home that the milk does not become contami-
nated there. All milk bottles should be washed before
opening, especially around the top even under the cap,
and should be placed in the coldest part of the refriger-
ator. No milk should be allowed to stand in an open
pitcher or dish in the room where flies and dust may
get at it. Only what is needed at the time should be
taken from the bottle; if any is left over, it should not
be poured back into the bottle for fear of contaminat-
ing the rest. If the paper cap for the bottle has been
punctured or thrown away, a tumbler may be inverted
over the top of the bottle.
All bottles and other utensils used for milk must
be kept clean. They should first be rinsed out in
cold water and then washed with soap and scalding
water.
Special notice should be taken of the value of
skimmed milk. It contains all of the food properties of
Value of whole milk except the fat, and so is a very
skimmed milk cnea p substitute for meat. It can be used
in cooking where the loss of fat can be made up by
cheaper fats, or it can be made into cottage cheese and
used in various ways. If skimmed milk is bought as
such, it should be used only in cooking, or else it should
be thoroughly sterilized, as it is apt to be more care-
lessly handled than whole milk.
EGGS
Eggs are not as economical a food as milk, and when
they soar in price to ninety cents and a dollar a dozen,
they should be kept for children and invalids by fami-
MILK AND EGGS 33
lies who wish to keep the cost of food down. They are
valuable as being a light, easily digested, nitrogenous
food, capable of being used either raw or in many
varied combinations.
It should be remembered in cooking eggs, no matter
what the process may be, that the temperature should
be kept low. Protein material when heated HOW to
to the boiling point of water becomes cook e & s
tough and leathery, while it solidifies into a jellylike
mass at 175 F. In order, then, to cook an egg without
having it become tough, it should be kept below the
boiling point of water. When the egg is in the shell this
is done by dropping it into boiling water and allowing
it to stand away from the fire the length of time de-
sired according to the various tastes of the family, the
size of the pan used, and the quantity of water four
minutes for a very soft egg, five or six minutes for a
harder one. They should never be boiled. The same is
true of a poached egg. In order to obtain a "hard-
boiled" egg, the egg may be left in warm water twenty
minutes. All custards also and even scrambled eggs
are better when cooked in the top of a double boiler.
Eggs should be kept at a low temperature, but not
below freezing point. As they readily absorb odors and
flavors from surrounding substances, it is ,
, , , r ,, * Care of eggs
well to remove them from the paper box
in which they usually are shipped and place them in a
clean china bowl. In order to preserve them for some
months, they may be placed in large crocks and en-
tirely submersed in a mixture of boiled, cooled water
and water glass (sodium silicate), one part of the water
glass to nine parts of water. This merely coats the sur-
face of the egg, thereby preventing the evaporation of
34 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
the air from the inside and the entrance of germs
through the pores of the shell from the outside.
MILK AND EGG RECIPES
CREAM SOUPS
1/4 cup oleomargarine or I quart liquid (i pint milk
other fat and I pint liquid in which
1/4 cup flour vegetables have been cooked)
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Melt the fat and stir in the flour. When these are well
mixed, add the liquid and heat until it boils, stirring con-
stantly. Add seasonings. To this sauce may be added 1/2
cup to I quart vegetable stock and pulp, according to the
strength or flavor of the vegetables. Beans, cabbage, carrots,
corn, onions, peas, potatoes, squash, or turnips may be
used, mashed through a strainer.
To make peanut soup, add 1/2 cup peanut butter to the
thickened milk, or to make cheese soup, add 1/4 cup cheese
cut in pieces.
CORN CHOWDER
I can corn 4 cups skimmed milk
4 cups potatoes, sliced 8 squares toast
1/4 pound fat salt pork Salt and pepper
i sliced onion
Cut pork in small pieces and try out, add onion and cook
five minutes, stirring often that onion may not burn. Par-
boil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover, add
potatoes and water to fat, cook until potatoes are soft, add
corn and milk, then heat to boiling point. Season with salt
and pepper, add the toast soaked in enough cold milk to
moisten.
MILK AND EGGS 35
CREAM OF COTTAGE CHEESE SOUP
I cup milk 1/3 teaspoon salt
1/2 tablespoon butter Dash of pepper
1 1 2 tablespoon thickening I /4 cup cottage cheese
Use the above ingredients (except the cheese) to make a
thin white sauce. Cook thoroughly and cool slightly before
adding the cheese. Neutralize acid of cheese with soda if
cheese is sour, allowing I /4 to I /2 teaspoon of soda to I cup
of cheese. Dissolve soda in a little milk and blend with
cheese. Then stir the warm sauce gradually into the cheese
until well blended. Reheat carefully, using as seasoning a
slice of onion, a small slice of the yellow of the lemon rind,
and a blade of mace or a little nutmeg. Avoid boiling the
sauce after the cheese is added.
POTAGE A LA REINE
(Queen Victorians favorite soup)
I quart liquor in which one chicken has been cooked
Season with salt, pepper, celery salt, and perhaps onion
3 hard-boiled yolks of egg, mashed
I /3 cup dry bread crumbs, moistened with I /2 cup cold milk
White chicken meat, chopped fine
Mix last three ingredients, add slowly to them I pint hot
milk or cream, then add all to the hot stock. Boil 5 minutes,
taste for seasoning and thickness. It should be like a pur6e.
(/ FARINA CREAM SOUP
3 pints milk, or 2 pints milk
I pint water, or 2 pints water
1 cup farina
2 eggs
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup grated cheese
36 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Beat the eggs slightly and add a little of the milk. Put the
rest of the milk and the water into a saucepan, and bring it
to a boil. Add the salt and farina. Cook 5 minutes and add
the eggs. Cook a little, and add the cheese.
Wheat cream soup is made in the same way, using wheat
instead of farina.
Other dishes containing a large amount of milk :
Creamed chicken, or fish
Creamed vegetables
Dishes served with a white sauce
Scalloped dishes
Bread and rice puddings
Cornstarch puddings
Tapioca cream
Custards
SOFT OR BOILED CUSTARD
2/3 cup milk
I egg
I tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
Vanilla
Heat the milk in the top of the double boiler. Beat the
egg until smooth but not foamy. Add the sugar and salt to
the egg. Pour the hot milk onto the egg and return to the
double boiler, stirring constantly. It is cooked enough when
it coats the spoon, and when the foam disappears. Strain
and flavor.
BAKED CUSTARD
2/3 cup milk
I egg
i tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
Vanilla or caramel
MILK AND EGGS 37
Beat the egg slightly. Add the sugar and salt to the egg,
then the milk. Pour into a buttered cup and set in a pan of
hot water in a moderate oven. Bake about 20 minutes or
until it does not cling to a knife.
POACHED EGG
Boil water in a greased frying-pan. Add salt, I teaspoon
to I quart of water. Draw to cooler part of the stove and
carefully slip in the egg, which has been broken in a saucer.
Cover and cook until white is firm, 5 or 6 minutes. Take
up carefully with skimmer, season and serve on toasted
bread.
CREAMY EGG
I egg
1/4 cup warm milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
Beat egg slightly and add butter, salt, pepper, and milk.
Cook in a double boiler over gently boiling water. As it
thickens stir it slowly from the side and bottom, that it may
cook evenly. Cook it until it is of a soft, creamy texture,
remove from fire and serve at once on toast.
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATO
Season I pint of tomato with onion, celery, or parsley and
sweet herbs. Cook and strain. Put 2 tablespoons butter in
blazer, add tomato, when it is hot add 6 eggs slightly beaten,
1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/16 teaspoon pepper. Stir until
contents are creamy. Serve with brown bread toasted.
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH PEAS
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH ASPARAGUS
Similar to Eggs with Tomato
,17573
38 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH COTTAGE CHEESE
3 eggs Salt Pepper
2 tablespoons cottage cheese
Beat the eggs slightly, season highly with salt and pepper,
turn into hot, well-greased saucepan and scramble very
quickly. When firm, stir into them as quickly as possible
the cottage cheese. Serve as soon as thoroughly mixed.
This dish is improved if the cheese has previously been
mixed with pimento or parsley.
COTTAGE CHEESE OMELET
2 eggs I tablespoon chopped pimento
1/4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons milk
3 rounded tablespoons 1/8 teaspoon soda
cottage cheese
Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately. Add to
the yolks the salt, the milk, and the cheese which have been
blended with the pimento, finally fold in the stiffly beaten
whites, pour into a hot frying-pan in which has been melted
1/2 tablespoon fat. Cook the omelet slowly until the egg
has set, place in the oven a few minutes to finish cooking and
fold over in the center. Garnish with parsley. Other season-
ing may be used, such as chopped parsley, green pepper, or
minced ham.
SCALLOPED EGGS WITH COTTAGE CHEESE
6 hard-boiled eggs I cup white sauce -:
1/2 cup cottage cheese I sweet red pepper cut in strips
Cut the eggs into quarters and place about one fourth of
the amount in a buttered baking-dish. Cover this layer with
sauce into which the cottage cheese has been folded and
sprinkle over it a layer of sliced green or red sweet pepper.
Repeat until the dish is full. Sprinkle bread crumbs on top,
dot with butter and brown in a hot oven.
MILK AND EGGS 39
LIGHT OMELET
2 eggs ' i saltspoon salt
2 tablespoons water or milk I /3 saltspoon pepper
Beat the yolks, add liquid, salt, and pepper. Cut and fold
the beaten whites into the yolks. Heat the pan very hot;
butter the pan and add the mixture. Cook until brown, and
the whole center is dry. Place in oven to set. Run a knife
around the edge of the pan and fold over to the right.
Add for variety : I tablespoon chopped parsley, or a tea-
spoon fine grated onion, or two or three tablespoons grated
corn to the yolks before cooking.
Or spread on the omelet before folding, thin slices of ham,
or three tablespoons chopped ham, veal, or chicken ; stewed
tomatoes, or raw tomatoes sliced; chopped mushrooms,
shrimps, oysters which have been parboiled and drained,
cooked clams, chopped ; or grated cheese.
OMELET SOUFFLE
Whites of 3 eggs Juice of 1/4 lemon
Yolks of 2 eggs I 1/2 tablespoons powdered sugar
Beat the whites to a very stiff froth. Beat the yolks. Add
them to the whites, then the sugar and lemon juice. Fold in
carefully, and heap into a buttered baking dish or into paper
cases. Dredge with powdered sugar. Bake until a golden
brown.
CREAMED OMELET
3 eggs I saltspoon salt
3 tablespoons of cream Pepper if desired
Beat the eggs in a bowl until very foamy, without sepa-
rating the yolks from the whites ; add the cream and season-
ing and beat again. Place the bowl containing the mixture
over hot water and stir constantly until the mixture begins
to set. Turn the mixture into a very hot frying-pan, in
40 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
which a teaspoonful of butter has been melted. When the
under surface is brown, fold the omelet, turn it out on a hot
plate, and serve immediately.
FRENCH OMELET
Beat only a little the whites and yolks of two eggs. Add
I tablespoon of water or milk, 1/8 teaspoon of salt and a
dash of pepper. Turn this into a buttered frying-pan. Keep
the mixture disturbed by lifting the edge with a knife or
fork. When the omelet is set, fold and serve.
A HEARTY OMELET
I pint milk I teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cornmeal 6 slices of bacon
3 e ggs
Scald the milk in a double boiler. Pour it onto the corn-
meal and put back on the fire. Cook 15 to 20 minutes, stir-
ring frequently at first. Beat the eggs separately; pour the
meal mixture into the beaten yolks, add salt, and fold in the
stiffly beaten whites. Have a large frying-pan in which bacon
has been cooked; remove bacon and pour off most of the
fat; pour the omelet mixture into it. Bake about 1/2 hour
in a rather moderate oven. Serve on a platter garnished
with the bacon .^Use either white or yellow cornmeal.
SPINACH OMELET
1 cup cooked spinach 1/2 cup cream
I 1/2 tablespoons flour , 1/3 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter Few grains of pepper
4 eggs
Chop the spinach fine, and make a sauce of the butter,
flour, cream, pepper, and salt, allowing it to boil thoroughly.
Combine this with the spinach. Separate the egg-yolks from
the whites; beat the yolks till lemon-colored, adding 1/3
MILK AND EGGS 41
teaspoon of salt and a little pepper. Beat the whites till stiff
and dry and cut and fold them into the first mixture. Pour
the egg mixture into a hot, well-buttered omelet pan, spread-
ing the spinach over the top. Cook very gently for about
twelve minutes till the egg is set and the omelet brown.
Fold as usual.
EGGS IN MASHED POTATO
2 cups cold mashed potato
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg.
4 eggs
I tablespoon finely chopped parsley
I teaspoon drippings
Mix the seasoned mashed potato with the nutmeg and
divide into four parts (if the potatoes are stiff add a little
milk). Roll in the bread crumbs and place in an earthenware
dish which has been brushed with the drippings. Make a
hole in the center of the potatoes large enough to hold an
egg. Break the eggs one at a time into the center of the
potato nest. Sprinkle the eggs with salt, or add a few slices
of bacon. Place in a hot oven and bake until the eggs are
set to one's liking. Sprinkle the top with parsley and serve.
CHAPTER V
MEAT
BEEF, veal, mutton, lamb, chicken, and all other ani-
mal flesh are included in the general term meat. They
vary little in their general structure, composition, or
nutritive value. The population of the world is increas-
ing faster than the number of meat animals, so that the
price of meat is constantly increasing and there is no
immediate prospect of its being lowered. Meat is usu-
ally the most expensive part of the diet. Those fami-
lies who desire to reduce the cost of living can do so by
using less meat.
When we look at a piece of raw meat, it is easy to
see that it is largely made up of water, the actual per-
What meat centage being about 62 per cent. We next
is made of notice that there are two distinct types of
tissue, the red lean tissue which is made up of protein
material, and the fatty tissue. Since the fat occurs
throughout the lean material as well as in the large
sections easily seen, taking the place in the tissues of
water, a piece of meat that is well streaked with fat
would be more economical than a lean one. The average
piece of meat with a moderate amount of fat contains
about 1 8 per cent protein material and from 18 per cent
to 20 per cent of fat. There is no carbohydrate in
meat, but there is about one per cent of mineral salts.
On further examination it is seen that raw meat is
made up of distinct bundles of muscle fiber, giving to
meat what is known as "grain." These bundles can be
PLATE A
SIDE OF BEEF
BOSTON CUTS
1 NECK
2 CHUCK RIB
3 PRIME RIB
4 SIRLOIN
5 BACK OF RUMP
6 MIDDLE OF RUMP
7 FACE OF RUMP
8 AITCH BONE
9 ROUND
10 VEIN
11 HIND SHIN
12 FLANK
13 RATTLE RAND
14 BRISKET
15 FORE SHIN
MEAT 43
pulled apart into still smaller bundles until finally we
see under the microscope that each bundle is made up
of a group of hollow tubes held together by connective
tissue. These hollow tubes or muscle fibers vary in
length and toughness of structure with the age of the
animal, the use to which the muscle has been put, and
the length of time since the slaughter of the animal.
Each tube contains a liquid which holds in solution a
protein substance similar to the white of egg. It also
contains the mineral salts that are in the meat, and the
substances called "extractives" which give each meat
its own peculiar flavor. The walls of the tubes are an-
other type of protein material, as also is the connective
tissue which binds the tubes together and unites them
into bundles. Fat globules are found embedded
throughout the meat in this connective tissue. When
a piece of meat is carved with the grain, the bundles of
fibers are not broken open, hence the slice is stringy
and tough. When, however, meat is carved across the
grain, each hollow tube is cut in small pieces, thus re-
leasing the juice within and making the slice juicy and
easier to chew.
As an animal grows older, the muscle fiber becomes
tougher, as also does the connective tissue. This also
is true of the muscle that has constant what makes
use. At the same time, however, the quan- some meat
tity of juice in the muscle fiber is in- oug
creased and the flavor is developed. A cheap cut of
meat is a tough cut, but at the same time a juicy one.
Therefore it is preferable for making soup or for the
extraction of juice.
In former times the fatted calf was kept alive until
the honored guest arrived, since it was impossible to
44 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
have refrigerating plants. Because it was used at once,
it was a tender, juicy morsel. If, however, the guest
had been delayed and the meat had to be kept twenty-
four hours, it would have been found to be very tough.
This is due to the hardening of the muscle fiber and the
solidifying of the juices due to the cessation of the life
processes. Because of this fact, meat is hung or kept
for different lengths of time, depending upon the vari-
ety. This permits the first stage of bacterial action to
begin which again softens the tissue. With some kinds
of meat this process is allowed to go far, as for instance
with venison and game birds. Frequently in country
regions a farmer butchers his calf and peddles the meat
the next day. The housekeeper buying this meat would
find it very tough if she used it that day. If, however,
she kept it on ice for four or five days she would find
she had a tender piece of veal. Chickens also are better
if kept after killing for two or three days, unless eaten
immediately after killing.
CUTS OF BEEF
There is some confusion throughout the country in
purchasing beef because of the various ways in which
it is cut in different localities. After the slaughter of the
animal the beef carcass is always split lengthwise
down the backbone into two "sides." These are hung
by the hind legs, and the beef is shipped in this form.
The retailer divides the "sides" to suit his trade,
according to the part of the country in which his shop
, tg . d is located. There are two chief ways of
cutting a side of beef. One is known as the
"Boston cut," and is used generally throughout New
England. The other is the "New York or Philadelphia
PLATE B
BOSTON CUTS
SIRLOIN ROAST
A SIRLOIN B TENDERLOIN"
C FLANK D KIDNEY SI'FT
TIP OF SIRLOIN
RIB ROAST
MIDDLE CUT CF SIRLOIN
PLATE C
BOSTON CUTS
SIRLOIN OR PORTERHOUSE
STEAK
A SIRLOIN B TENDERLOIN
C FLANK
ROUND OF BEEF
A TOP ROUND B BOTTOM ROUND
C VEIN D SHIN
BACK OF RUMP
FACE OF RUMP
MIDDLE CUT OF RUMP
MEAT 45
cut," and has been adopted quite universally through-
out the United States except in New England. The
New York method of cutting is used by the Depart-
ment of Agriculture in their Farmers' Bulletins. It is to
be noted that cuts of the same name may be taken
from different parts of the animal in different locali-
ties. This explains why a New Yorker is puzzled not to
find as good beef in Boston as she is accustomed to in
New York, and why a Bostonian is frequently heard
to complain of New York beef. Accustomed to the best
cuts at home under a certain name, they purchase
quite a different cut under the same name in the other
city.
The side is cut across at right angles to the back-
bone, making ''hind" and "fore" quarters. Here lies
the first point of difference. In the Boston .
Quarters
cut three ribs are left on the hind quarter,
whereas in the New York cut all ribs are left on the
fore quarter. This means that the first cut of the fore
quarter in New York is the same piece of meat as the
first cut on the hind quarter in Boston. A prime rib
roast, the same ribs in both cases, is the first cut of the
fore quarter in Boston and the second cut in New York.
Plates A and D show the "quarter" division line
between sections (3) and (4). The pieces of the fore
quarter are used for the same purposes in both meth-
ods: the ribs (3) for roasts; the chuck (2) for roasts and
stews; the neck (i) for soup stock, stews, and beef -tea;
the rattle rand (13) and brisket (14) of Plate A, and
the plate (10), navel (n), and brisket (13) of Plate
D, are used for corning; and the fore shin (15) is used
for soup.
The greatest difference is in the way of cutting the
46 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
hind quarter, and the confusion thus brought about
_ . is increased by using the same terms for
different parts of the quarter. The loin (4)
in both plates is cut in slices at right angles to the back-
bone for steaks or in larger pieces for roasts. The ten-
derloin is an oval-shaped muscle lying underneath the
backbone in this section. It is sometimes removed
whole for a roast called a "fillet of beef," but is more
frequently sliced with the sirloin muscle to form
steaks. The "Club" or "Delmonico" steak is the one
in which only the tip of the tenderloin appears. A
"Porterhouse" steak is one in which there is a cut of
the tenderloin through its thickest part. This relation
of tenderloin to sirloin muscle can be seen in the pic-
ture of a Porterhouse steak in Plate C. The terms
"Club" and "Porterhouse" steaks are used alike in
both the New York and Boston systems.
The next section below the loin in the Boston cut is
called the "rump" (5, 6, and 7 of Plate A). This part
_ is cut out in a solid piece, and the bone re-
moved. It is then divided into three
pieces: the back, the middle cut, and the face. These
are used for roasts, or cut in slices for steaks. The back
makes the best roast, and is more economical than sir-
loin roasts, as there is no waste. The other two rump
cuts (6 and 7) are sometimes used for beef a la mode or
pot roasts.
} This section in New York (Plate D, 4) is still cut in
slices like the loin to make the large sirloin steaks
the hip-bone, the flat-bone, and the round-bone sirloin
steaks. These are not to be bought on the Boston mar-
ket. The New York rump (Plate D, 5), used for stews
and corning, is a cut which includes part of the Boston
PLATE D
SIDE OF BEEF
NEW YORK CUTS
r NECK
2 CHUCK
3 RIB ROAST
4 LOIN
5 RUMP
6 ROUND
7 BOTTOM OF ROUND
8 HIND SHIN
9 FLANK
10 PLATE
11 NAVEL
12 CROSS RIBS
13 BRISKET
14 CLOD
15 FORE SHIN
MEAT
47
rump, the aitch bone, and part of the round (Plate A,
8 and 9).
The round of beef (Plate A, 9, and Plate D, 6) is
much the same cut in both methods. It is divided into
"top" and "bottom" round (Plate C) Round
according to the way the piece lies on the
counter with the leg bone parallel to the counter. The
top is used for steaks and roasts, though the farther
down the leg the slice is cut the tougher the muscle be-
comes. The bottom round is tougher than the top and
is used for beef -juice, Hamburg steak, and sometimes
for stew meat.
The piece cut from the round in Boston, known as
the "vein" (Plate A, 10), is used for a roast or for
braised beef. It is stringy but juicy. The hind shin (u)
is used for soup stock.
How cooked
Stewed
Roasted, wasteful
Roasted, high grade
Stewed and for soup
Corned
Roasted or broiled, ten-
der and well-flavored
Roasted or broiled,
juicy, no waste
Stewed or corned
Broiled, stewed, or for
pot roast
Stewed for soup
Braised or boiled
Part
Part
Boston cut
New York cut
Fore Quarter
Neck
Neck
Chuck ribs
Chuck
Prime ribs
Prime ribs
Fore shin
Fore shin
Rattle rand ?
Plate I
Brisket >
Cross ribs (roasted) I
Navel
Brisket J
Hind Quarter
Sirloin
Rump
Part of rump 1
Aitch bone V
Part of round )
Round
Hind shin
Flank
Loin
5 Sirloin steaks
{ Part of rump
Rump
Round
Hind shin
Flank
48 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
It has been shown by the Department of Agricul-
ture in a long series of experiments that there is practi-
Ways of cally no difference in digestibility or nutri-
cooking meat j-j ve va i ue between the various cuts of the
same animal or of different types of animals. The sole
difference lies in the convenience of handling and in
the length of time involved in preparing the meat for
use. When the ways given in a cook-book for cooking
meat are looked over, it is found that they fall easily
into three groups, depending upon the result desired.
The first group includes all recipes in which the juices
only of the meat are used. This would include meat
soups and broths of all kinds. The second group com-
prises those recipes in which the piece of meat is served
as a whole and great care is taken to retain all the
juices, such as roasts and beefsteak. All others would
fall under the third head, where the meat and the
juices are served together. This includes stews of all
kinds, pot roasts, beef a la mode, and all so-called
"made" dishes, where the juices in the form of gravy
are served with the meat itself.
Since it is the juice of the meat that is desired for
soup, a cut is chosen from a muscle that has had much
use, not only because this is cheaper, but
Soup-making J . . . ^
because it contains more juice. Every
kind of meat may be used alone or in combination;
bones, pieces left from roasts, and trimmings may all
go into the soup-pot. It is well to have some bone with
the meat, for from the bone as well as from the connec-
tive tissue, gelatine is formed on boiling. If the broth
is to be used for a child or an invalid, instead of using
fragments it is better to buy meat especially for this
purpose, either the neck of mutton for mutton-broth,
PLATE E
NEW YORK CUTS
RUMP OF BEEF
LOIN OF BEEF
PLATE F
BOSTON CUTS
RIB AND LOIN CHOPS
A RIB CHOPS
B LOIN CHOPS
FOREQUARTER OF LAMB
MEAT 49
or the shin of beef for beef -broth. The meat for soup
should be cut in small pieces so as to have as large a
surface exposed as possible. It should be well covered
with cold water, and well salted and allowed to stand
for about an hour. This draws out the juices. It is then
put over a slow fire and allowed to heat gradually, but
should never be allowed to boil, since boiling will
harden all the protein material present in the juices.
This is what forms the scum on the top of a soup-pot
that ordinarily is carefully removed and thrown away
as being unsightly. Soup at best, when made under the
most careful conditions, contains only a small propor-
tion of the total nourishment of the meat, since only
that protein present in the juices is in the soup. If
this is skimmed off and thrown away, it leaves only
the flavor, mineral salts, and whatever gelatine has
been formed from the bones and connective tissue. A
cleared soup, such as bouillon or consomme 1 , contains
practically no nourishment, but is merely a stimulant
and should be used as an appetizer before a heavy
meal. It should be noted that the meat left from soup-
making contains by far the larger proportion of the
protein material of the original piece. To be sure, it is
tough and has no flavor, but it is far too valuable to be
thrown away. It can be put through the meat-chopper
and used, when highly seasoned, in " made-up" dishes
of various kinds. [
In order to retain all the juices as for a roast, it is
necessary to seal up the outside of the meat. This is
done by sprinkling a roast well with flour _
f -11 -i Roasting
to iorm a paste with the water in the meat,
and then by putting it into a hot oven which quickly
sears the outside. After this is done, the heat is reduced
50 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and the cooking completed at a steady low tempera-
ture. When a roast is red in the inside, it shows that it
has not been subjected to such heat as would coagulate
the protein material and would toughen the meat.
B . The same idea is carried out in broiling
a piece of meat there it is turned fre-
quently until seared on both sides and then allowed to
finish cooking more slowly.
With our third group, which is by far the largest, the
process involved is practically the same, even though
there is a great variety in the finished
products. The idea is to use a cut of meat
that is both juicy and tough, so to treat it as to make it
tender, and to serve it with the juices extracted during
the process. If a large piece of meat is used, as for a
pot roast, it is usually browned all over on a frying-
pan before it is subjected to a long, slow cooking in hot
water. This latter may be done in the oven or on the
top of the stove. Vegetables or various kinds of season-
ings may be added during the process of cooking and a
brown gravy made from the juices. The meat for a stew
is cut up into one-inch cubes. These may be browned
iin a pan for a brown stew or may be left as they are for
an Irish stew. Then they are covered with boiling wa-
ter and allowed to cook for a long time below the boil-
ing point. If stews are allowed to boil, the protein ma-
terial becomes tough and the pieces of meat are hard
and leathery. Vegetables are usually added during the
process and the gravy is slightly thickened with flour.
The great variety of recipes in this group is due to dif-
ferent combinations of flavors used by various cooks,
each one having a distinct name. This process may
well be carried out in a fireless cooker. In this case,
MEAT 51
however, the stew must be boiled for fifteen minutes
before being put into the cooker.
POULTRY
Although the ways of cooking chicken may fall into
any one of these groups, it may be well to add a special
word on the subject. When buying a chicken we can
distinguish between chicken and fowl in this way: a
fowl has hairs on the body and not so many pin-feath-
ers ; the skin is also coarser, there are scales on the feet,
and the end of the breast-bone is stiff and not pliable
as in a chicken. A hand-picked chicken is more tender
than one that has been scalded before the feathers are
removed, although the other has a smoother, more at-
tractive appearance.
To dress a chicken or fowl, make a small incision
between the end of the breast-bone and the tail, not
deep enough to cut through the membrane TO dress a
surrounding the entrails. The fat can be chlcken
easily separated from the body of the bird and all the
entrails can be removed at once if this membrane has
not been pierced. Be careful to remove the lungs which
lie close to the breast-bone and which do not come out
with the entrails. The kidneys also must be removed
separately. The crop can be slipped out through the
neck opening without making an incision below the
neck. The tendons of the legs may be pulled by making
a cut through the skin above the joint before removing
the feet. Remove all pin-feathers and singe off the
hairs.
After the bird has been stuffed and sewed up, it is
trussed for baking. One skewer is put crosswise through
the bone by the tail; another skewer is put through
52 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
the body at the largest part of the legs; a third is so
To truss a placed in the upper part of the body as to
bird for hold both wings in place and the end of
the neck which has been brought down on
the back. A string is wound around the ends of the legs
and the ends of the tail skewer, holding them securely
in place ; then it is laced across the back of the chicken
around the other two skewers making a harness to
keep the wings and neck in place without having any
string across the breast of the bird.
If a giblet gravy is desired, the liver, heart, and giz-
zard are removed from the entrails. Care must be
taken to cut away from the liver the gall-
bladder and any discolored parts. The
clotted blood should be thoroughly washed out of the
heart. The fat around the gizzard can be easily pulled
off, and the thin membrane on the outside of the fleshy
portion can be cut away with a sharp knife. The flesh
can then be separated very easily from the heavy
membrane enclosing the sac with its disagreeable con-
tents. The prepared giblets should be dropped into
boiling water at once and simmered until tender. They
may then be set aside to be used for the gravy when
the chicken is served.
One word further. Since pork and its products, with
the exception of bacon, contain so much fat in close
combination with the protein material, they are dim-
cult to digest and should not be given to children nor
adults who have weak digestion. Crisp bacon fat is,
however, one of the most digestible of the fats and can
be used freely in combination with potatoes and other
vegetables.
MEAT 53
MEAT RECIPES
SOUP STOCK
4 pounds meat 1/4 of a sweet pepper
4 pints cold water 11/2 teaspoons sweet herbs (mar-
2 teaspoons salt joram, thyme, etc.)
10-12 peppercorns or 1/4 cup each carrot, onion,
1 sprig parsley celery, turnip, cut in
4 cloves small pieces
1/2 of a bay leaf
Wash and cut meat and bones. Put in kettle with cold
water, and soak for 1/2 hour. Place over fire and heat slowly
to the boiling point. Simmer 5 or 6 hours. Strain and cool.
TO CLARIFY SOUP STOCK
Remove fat from the stock (strain through cheesecloth).
Allow the white and shell of I egg to each pint of stock.
Beat the white slightly, crush the shell, and add to the cold
stock. Stir over the fire until the boiling point is reached.
Boil 3 to 5 minutes according to the amount of stock. Set
on the back of the stove to settle for 10 minutes. Remove the
scum. Strain through a sieve set on top of cheesecloth. If
necessary reheat before serving.
Season soup to taste before clearing.
Lean raw meat may be used instead of white of egg. It is
more bother to handle, but is cheaper than eggs when stock
is to be cleared in large quantity.
SOUP STOCK
4 pounds of the "meat end" of a hind shin of beef
2 quarts very cold water
I onion, sliced across
Salt, pepper, some bay leaves
I egg
54 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Cut meat and bone into inch cubes. Pour the cold water
over it. Stand overnight in a cool place. In the morning put
on stove and heat slowly. It should simmer and not boil,
for 6 or 8 hours. Strain through a sieve into a wide bowl.
The next day remove the fat. Add the onion, seasonings,
and egg beaten up with the shell. Stir until it boils. Then
add enough caramel to give it color and let all boil 45 min-
utes. Strain through scrim into a bowl.
PLAIN STEW
I pound breast of veal or lamb I tablespoon butter
(meat and bone) I onion
I teaspoon salt I carrot
I /1 6 teaspoon pepper I turnip
I quart water or stock 2 potatoes
Gravy: I to 2 tablespoons flour
I to 2 tablespoons water
Cut meat in small pieces, put with salt, pepper, and cold
water or stock in saucepan. Raise slowly to simmering point
and keep it there until tender, 2 or 3 hours. Cut vegetables
into small pieces or fancy shapes, brown them in butter and
add to the stew half an hour before serving, giving time
enough to cook the vegetables. Take the solid material out,
thicken and season the gravy, and serve all together.
BEEF STEW
The five chuck ribs may be used for stew, the rump piece,
or the upper part of the round.
5 pounds of either of the above cuts I onion cut in slices
4 cups potatoes cut in thin slices 1/4 cup flour
1/2 cup carrots diced Salt and pepper
Remove bone, wipe meat and cut into pieces I inch
square, and dredge thickly with flour.
Render slowly 2 tablespoons suet fat. Add the meat to
MEAT 55
the fat and brown. Add remaining fat and bone, also flour.
Add cold water to partly cover, raise it to simmering point
and allow it to simmer gently until meat is tender. Add
carrot and onion with seasonings the last hour of cooking.
Parboil potatoes and add to stew the last 15 minutes. Re-
move bone and any pieces of fat, and skim the stew care-
fully before serving.
BRAISED BEEF
3 pounds beef from lower part Carrot "1
of round or face of rump Turnip I 1/4 cup each,
2 thin slices fat salt pork Onion f cut in dice
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns Celery J
3 cloves Salt and pepper
I bay leaf
Try out pork and remove scraps. Wipe meat, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire
surface in pork fat. Place on trivet in deep granite pan or in
earthen pudding-dish, and surround with vegetables, pepper-
corns, and 3 cups boiling water; cover closely and bake 4
hours in very slow oven, basting every 1/2 hour, and turn
after second hour. Throughout the cooking the liquid should
be kept below the boiling point. Serve with horseradish
sauce, or with brown sauce made from liquor in pan.
MOCK DUCK
Sear 2 pounds flank or skirt steak, stuff, and roll it, tie
it, and put in double roasting-pan with water under it. Cook
3 hours in slow oven, never allowing water to cook out en-
tirely. Serve hot, making a sauce with liquor in pan, season-
ing with tomato.
STUFFING
i cup bread crumbs I teaspoon minced parsley
I teaspoon salt I teaspoon chopped pickle
1/4 teaspoon pepper I teaspoon onion juice
I teaspoon lemon juice 1/4 cup melted butter
56 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
BEEF OLIVES
Cut chuck steak 1/2 inch thick; take pieces 4 inches
square, sear them both sides, put stuffing on them, roll, and
tie. Put in double roasting pan with brown sauce under-
neath. Cook in slow oven 2 hours. Season sauce and serve.
HAMBURG STEAK
i pound chuck steak i teaspoon salt
i onion 1/3 teaspoon pepper
Chop meat and onion together, season, make into firm
balls, sear in butter, reduce the temperature, turn balls
often, and serve rare.
SALISBURY STEAK
I pound chopped chuck i tablespoon lemon juice
I teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons minced parsley
Make into firm balls, sear in hot butter, cook at a lower
temperature, turning often, serve rare.
MEAT BALLS WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE
i pound chopped chuck 1/6 teaspoon pepper
I teaspoon salt
Cook according to directions for Salisbury steak. Serve
with sauce:
1/2 cup horseradish 1/2 cup cream
1/2 cup cracker dust I teaspoon mustard
I teaspoon salt 1/4 cup vinegar
I /1 6 teaspoon pepper 2 teaspoons powdered sugar
Mix salt, pepper, cracker and horseradish. Make paste of
mustard and cream in a spoon, add it with cream to mixture.
Add full amount of vinegar if horseradish is fresh, and heat
the materials over water. Serve hot.
MEAT 57
GERMAN HORSERADISH SAUCE
1/2 cup horseradish I teaspoon salt
Vinegar to cover I sour apple grated
2 teaspoons sugar Serve cold
ROAST BREAST OF LAMB
Prepare meat by skinning, trimming if necessary, and
wiping with damp cloth. Plunge into boiling salted water
and simmer until tender. Take from the water, remove bones,
place on rack in dripping-pan, cover with buttered crumbs,
and bake until brown. Serve with brown tomato sauce using
the water it was cooked in as part of the liquid.
BOILED LEG OF MUTTON
Wipe meat, place in a kettle, and cover with boiling water.
Bring quickly to boiling point, boil 5 minutes, and skim.
Set on back of range and simmer until meat is tender. When
half done, add I tablespoon salt. Thirty minutes before re-
moving the meat add one cup of soup vegetables. Cut the
carrot and turnip in half-inch thick slices and stamp with
fluted cutter. Place the meat on a hot dish, and rub lightly
over it enough of the white sauce (to be used for the caper
sauce) to make surface white and smooth. Sprinkle with
chopped parsley or capers. Cut a hole in the center of the
sliced vegetables and string them alternately on the bone.
Serve with caper sauce, or add to two cups white sauce
(made of half milk and half mutton stock) two hard-boiled
eggs cut in slices.
MUTTON STEW
I pound flank of mutton 3 slices turnip
I small onion I tablespoon butter
3 slices carrot 2 tablespoons flour
Pepper and salt
58 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Cut mutton into small pieces. Season and place in earthen
dish. Add vegetables; mix butter and flour, add hot water
and pour over meat. Cover with boiling water, add salt to
taste. Boil 15 minutes, and cook 5 hours in fireless cooker.
STUFFED SPARERIB
I whole spare rib cracked in middle
4 apples
/ 1/4 pound raisins
Wipe meat with damp cloth. Slice apples, seed raisins,
place on half of sparerib, fold balance over it, tie or sew
together. Put it on rack in roasting-pan and into hot oven.
After 10 minutes, or when outside is seared, reduce tempera-
ture of oven and put a little water in pan with which to
baste roast occasionally. Cook 2 hours. Serve with gravy
made from liquor in pan.
FRIED SALT PORK
Cut salt side pork very thin, lay each piece in flour and
put into a hot frying-pan, cook until light brown. Place on
hot platter.
Pour from the pan all but 2 tablespoons fat. Add 2 table-
spoons flour and I cup milk as in white sauce. Season and
serve with baked potatoes.
CORNED BEEF HASH
Drop the corned beef into boiling water and simmer,
allowing 30 minutes to the pound. When cold chop rather
coarse. Chop cold cooked potatoes coarse also. Dry bread
may be used instead of part of the potato, and improves
hash.
4 cups meat 2 teaspoons salt
4 cups potato 1/4 teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons butter i cup milk
MEAT 59
Butter the bottom of a skillet, put in it the mixture of
meat and potato. Over the top put seasoning and butter.
Add the milk and put the skillet in the oven. Let it remain
there half an hour, stirring every 10 minutes. If browned
hash is desired reserve half of the butter and after the second
stirring melt the butter in a frying-pan, put the mixture
into it, and cook on the top of the stove, without stirring,
until brown underneath. Fold and serve.
BEEF, OATMEAL, AND TOMATO
1 pound shin of beef 1/3 cup oatmeal
2 sausages I teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
I cup canned tomatoes Salt and pepper
Cut beef into small pieces, and season with salt and pep-
per. Cut sausages into inch pieces, roll in flour, and put into
earthen dish with beef. Add other ingredients and cook 5
hours in fireless cooker.
BEEF ROLL
IO ounces lean beef from Salt and pepper
shoulder or shin I slice onion
2 ounces sausage meat 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
Bread crumbs 2 teaspoons tomato catsup
Mix sausage meat with equal quantity of stale bread
crumbs. Cut meat into slices 1/2 inch thick and spread with
sausage. Roll up and tie firmly. Salt, pepper, and dredge
thickly with flour. Put into earthen dish with other ingredi-
ents. Cover with boiling water and cook 5 hours in fireless
cooker.
SCALLOPED MEAT
Spread in a baking-dish alternate layers of bread crumbs
or cooked macaroni or spaghetti, meat chopped very fine or
cut in cubes, a sprinkling of chopped parsley, onion, pepper,
60 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and salt. When the dish is nearly full, pour over enough
white sauce to moisten it well; cover with buttered crumbs,
and brown in the oven. Soup stock or tomatoes may also be
used for moistening a scallop. A scallop made of raw meat,
tomatoes, and crumbs makes a good luncheon dish. If un-
cooked meat is used, it will require one hour in a slow oven,
and more liquid will be needed.
SHEPHERD'S PIE
1 onion I pound raw meat or left-over
2 cups tomato meat cut up small
1/8 teaspoon pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt
I tablespoon fat
Mashed potato for the crust
Melt the fat, add the sliced onion, and, if raw meat is
used, add it and stir until the red color disappears. Add the
tomato and seasoning. If cooked meat is used, add it with
the tomato and seasoning, after the onion is brown, and
heat through. Grease a baking-dish, put in a layer of the
potato, add the meat and gravy, and cover with the potato
dotted with fat. Bake until the potato is browned.
RICE MEAT PIE
Put in baking-dish any left-over meat and gravy. Season
well with chopped onion, pepper, and salt.
Boil i cup rice in salted water. When done, strain, mix
with i tablespoon butter and two eggs, salt and pepper to
taste. Put all on top of meat and bake i /2 hour.
CALVES' TONGUES WITH TOMATO SAUCE
12 small fresh tongues
6 fresh tomatoes or i can
I teaspoon chopped parsley
I teaspoon celery extract, or tablespoon celery cut fine
1/4 teaspoon onion juice, salt, pepper, and paprika to taste
MEAT 61
Put tongues in a pan of cold water for 30 minutes; boil
until the skins crack. This will take from three to four hours.
Remove the skin without tearing the meat.
About an hour before serving time, make a sauce by cook-
ing the tomatoes, onions, parsley, and celery until very
tender. Strain through a fine sieve or coarse cloth, allowing
no seeds to pass through. To the liquor add the seasoning,
and allow all to simmer until it becomes the thickness of
catsup. Fold in 3 tablespoons of cream whipped, which
should thicken the sauce.
** Arrange crisp lettuce leaves on a platter, one for each
tongue, garnish with sliced lemon and water cress. Serve
sauce in sauce boat.
FRESH BEEF'S TONGUE
Boil the tongue slowly until tender, putting into the water
part of an onion, I bay leaf, 3 or 4 allspice, and a piece of
mace. Let it stand in the water to cool. Take out, skin it,
and stick it full of cloves. Boil it again for a little while until
it is thoroughly heated through. Put the water in which the
tongue was boiled into a skillet, thicken with a little flour;
add salt, pepper, and sugar, and a glass of currant jelly. Let
it all boil slowly until it is reduced to about a pint. Mean-
while let the tongue stand on a tin plate on top of the fire
to keep hot. When the gravy is ready put the tongue in it
and baste it until it is smoking hot and ready to serve. Put
the tongue on the serving-dish, pour the gravy over it and
decorate with slices of lemon.
BRAISED LAMBS* HEARTS
Wipe each heart, cut off extra fat and take out partition
walls. Stuff, using 1/4 of recipe for Mock Duck, tie up, and
sear. Make 1/3 cup of brown sauce in dish in which heart
was seared. Put hearts in double roasting-pan and cook in
slow oven, 3 to 5 hours. Season sauce with Worcestershire
or Tomato Sauce and serve.
62 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
PIGS IN CLOVER
Cut bacon very thin.
Cut calves' liver 1/4 inch thick. Drop it into water below
boiling temperature, and let it remain for a few minutes to
cook. To each slice of bacon pin a piece of liver of similar
shape with a toothpick. Cook them in a hot frying-pan until
light brown. Serve on toast.
CREAMED CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS
I cup chicken broth 3 cups chopped chicken (cooked)
1 cup cream I cup canned mushrooms
2 tablespoons flour I lemon
1/4 cup butter 2 tablespoons grated cheese
Melt the butter in a pan. Stir in the flour until smooth.
Add the broth and the cream. As it thickens add the chicken
and mushrooms. Season well and allow to cook for 5 min-
utes. Serve in warm biscuit shells and sprinkle tops with
cheese and lemon juice.
TERRAPIN CHICKEN
I quart cold chicken cut small 4 teaspoons butter
1 or 2 chicken livers 4 teaspoons cream
3 hard-boiled eggs I tablespoon salt
2 yolks of eggs 1/3 teaspoon pepper
I cup chicken stock I teaspoon lemon
juice
Chop the livers and the hard-boiled eggs together and add
them to the chicken. Sprinkle with the pepper and the salt.
Put the butter in a frying-pan on the stove. Add flour and
stir until it becomes brown and frothy. Move the pan to less
hot a fire and add the chicken stock gradually. Put the pan
back onto the fire and stir three minutes, then add the cream
except 4 teaspoonfuls. Stir one minute. Add the chicken
mixture and cook ten minutes. While it is cooking, beat the
MEAT 63
yolks of two eggs and add to them the 4 teaspoonfuls of
cream. Pour this into the chicken mixture, stir one minute,
add the lemon juice and serve at once.
CHICKEN FRICASSEE CREOLE
Fry chicken lightly, dredging flour into the fat, and brown.
Add 2 cups of boiling water, I quart of tomatoes, peeled and
sliced, i small onion sliced, a few sprigs of parsley, and stew
slowly I 1/2 hours. Serve with rice border.
A"FRIKASIE"
(Colonial Recipe) Mrs. John Burroughs, 1734
"Take ye fowls; cut them in pieces, and clean them. Sea-
son with pepper and salt, a little mace, nutmeg, cloves, some
parsley, a little bit of onion. Let them lay 2 hours, then
flowr them well, fry in sweet butter, and make ye butter
hott before you put them in. Fry a fine brown. Wash ye
pan, and put them in again with a pint of gravy. Lett them
swimyer in ye gravy. Take the yolks of 3 eggs with a little
grated nutmeg, a little juce of lemon and 2 spoonsful of
wine. Shake it over the fire til it is as thick as cream, pour
over ye frikasie, and so serve it to ye table hot."
SMOTHERED CHICKEN
Put 1/2 cup beef-dripping or bacon fat and I small cup
of stock in the bottom of a pan. Split the chickens, dredge
with flour all over, season with pepper and salt, putting the
chickens breast down, and putting the giblets under them.
Allow 15 minutes to the pound. When done, take out the
chickens, mash the giblets, adding a cup of rich milk to the
juice to make the gravy.
FRICASSEED RABBIT
Skin and cut in pieces and lay in cold water a few minutes.
Drain, and put in a saucepan, with pepper and a little pork
64 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
cut in strips. Cover with water and simmer 1/2 hour. Then
add a small chopped onion, I tablespoon chopped parsley,
i blade of mace, and a little clove. Mix to a smooth paste
I tablespoon of flour, stir it in and let the rabbit simmer
until it is tender. Then sti&in 1/2 cup rich cream. Boil up
and serve
SOUFFLE
Chicken
Make white sauce of
milk or stock
butter t
flour
salt
pepper
Add just as you take from the fire:
egg-yolks
chopped meat
soft crumbs
parsley
lemon juice
onion juice
2 cups
2 tablespoons
2 tablespoons
. I teaspoon
1/8 teaspoon
3
. Q CUpS
1/2 CUp
I tablespoon
Spread on bottom of dish to cool. Cut
mixture
egg-whites, stiff
Veal
2 CUpS
3 tablespoons
6 tablespoons
1 teaspoon
1/8 teaspoon
3 or 4
2 CUpS
2 tablespoons
2 teaspoons
8 drops
and fold into the
3 or 4
Turn into a buttered baker and put into a slow, increasing
oven about 30 minutes or until well browned over.
Serve at once, with white mushroom sauce for the chicken
and brown tomato sauce for the veal.
CHEESE SOUFFLE may be made, using grated cheese in-
stead of meat and few, if any, of the extra flavors. It may be
served with white sauce or alone.
MEAT . 65
CROQUETTES
2 cups cold fowl or veal cut fine 4 drops onion
1/2 teaspoon salt I teaspoon parsley
Cayenne 1/2 teaspoon celery salt
I teaspoon lemon juice for veal
Mix meat and seasoning, add as much white sauce as you
can to be able to handle the mixture and yet have a soft
creamy croquette when served. For this amount make I cup
white sauce, using but 4 tablespoons butter and 6 table-
spoons flour to the pint.
Chill the mixture, shape quickly, crumb, egg, and crumb.
Fry but six at once, as more cool the fat too much.
CHICKEN CHARTREUSE
A: I cup cooked chicken, minced fine
B: i teaspoon chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoon onion juice,
1/4 teaspoon salt.
2 tablespoons tomato juice, I beaten egg, dash of
pepper
Mix A with B. Line a buttered dish I inch thick with
boiled rice. Fill center with chicken mixture, cover top with
rice. Cover and steam 45 minutes. Serve with tomato sauce
poured around it.
CREOLE SAUCE
To be served with steaks or chicken
2 onions 2 tablespoons of butter
1/2 pound ham 12 tomatoes
2 garlic cloves Salt, pepper, and paprika
to taste
Melt the butter. Chop the onions and garlic cloves and
brown in the butter. Add the tomatoes that have been
66 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
peeled, also the ham that has been cut in dice. Season highly.
Cook for an hour, strain and heat.
The sauce may be thickened with a teaspoon of arrow-
root.
CURRY SAUCE
(East Indian Disk)
1 tablespoon butter i tablespoon Chutney sauce
I onion, cut fine I cup stock
I tablespoon curry powder
Brown butter; add onion and Chutney sauce; cook thor-
oughly before adding stock and curry, as well as afterward.
In the curry sauce heat up cooked eggs or meat cut in small
pieces. Serve with cooked rice.
3 tablespoons flour 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 1/2 cup hot water
Melt one half the butter, add flour with seasonings, and
pour hot water on gradually. Boil 5 minutes, and add re-
maining butter in small pieces. Add one half cup capers
drained from their liquor.
DRESSING FOR TURKEY
2 parts of bread crumbs I part of citron
I part of raisins Butter
I part of currants Salt
DRESSING FOR WILD GAME
Fill with sour apples cut in quarters.
Remove these apples when game is cooked, and fill with
fresh fruit, oranges, and apples.
MEAT 67
SWEETBREADS, BRAINS, OR ROE
Sweetbreads and brains
Wash and soak in cold water I hour. Simmer in salted,
acidulated water 20 minutes (i quart water, I teaspoon salt,
I tablespoon vinegar).
To water for brains may be added : '
1 slice onion I bay leaf
2 peppercorns I sprig of thyme (i teaspoon)
Put into cold water; let stand until cool. Free it from
membrane, etc.
Shad or other roe
Wash in cold water. Be careful not to break membrane
that encloses eggs. If broken wrap in cheesecloth before
cooking.
Simmer in salted, acidulated water 20 minutes.
To water may be added :
I slice onion I bay leaf
Each may be diced and served in a chafing-dish.
(2 cups diced material to i to I 1/2 cups sauce)
Creamed
First marinate material i hour or longer in lemon juice,
onion juice, salt and pepper
N
A la Poulette.
With Bechamel sauce made of equal parts cream and
seasoned stock.
A la Newburg
Sauce made of 3 yolks of eggs, 1/3 teaspoon salt, cay-
enne, 3/4 cup sherry, and I cup cream.
Deviled (especially brains)
Marinate 3 brains with 3 teaspoons lemon juice.
Make sauce of 2 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons
flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 3/4 cup milk and water from
cooking brains, add i teaspoon lemon juice, i beaten egg,
68 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and brains cut up; stir lightly to heat brains, serve on
sal tines.
Scrambled (especially brains)
Beat 4 eggs, add 2/3 teaspoon salt, pepper, 1/2 cup
milk, and brains (one or two). Put into blazer 2 table-
spoons butter and add mixture, stir constantly until jelly-
like. Serve at once on toast or crackers.
Omelet
2 brains or I pair roe or sweetbreads
6 eggs, 1/3 teaspoon salt and pepper
Add material and seasoning to beaten yolks, cut and
fold into beaten whites, put into buttered pan. When
brown underneath put in oven to set on top, spread with
currant jelly; fold and serve at once.
Broiled (especially shad roe)
Marinate in equal parts oil and lemon juice and salt
I hour before cooking. Broil 10 minutes, baste with butter,
serve with maitre d'hotel butter; garnish with lemon points.
Salad
Marinate I hour in French dressing and onion juice ; drain
from marinade; add an equal amount of cucumbers cut in
cubes and mayonnaise to moisten ; serve on lettuce leaves.
En casserole Maryland style (especially roe)
Place 2 or 3 shad roe in buttered casserole ; sprinkle
with salt and pepper, half cover with broth, add 2 table-
spoons butter in bits. Cover dish and cook in oven 15
minutes. Keep roe hot while broth is removed to another
dish and reduced to I cup or less.
Beat 3 yolks of egg
Add I cup thin cream
Stir slowly into hot sauce; cook over hot water until
slightly thick. Add 2 tablespoons butter; salt and pepper
if required, and pour over roe. Garnish with thin slices of
bacon and serve.
CHAPTER VI
FISH
OF all the foods that can be served in place of meat,
fish is the one most commonly used. It is more eco-
nomical for the nation at large to use fish as a food
than to use meat, because the food used by the fish is
not available for man, whereas the grain fed to ani-
mals might be directly used for human food. The
United States is far behind European countries in the
consumption of fish. Here the average amount used is
only eighteen pounds per person per year, whereas the
British use fifty-eight pounds and the peoples on the
Continent use a hundred pounds. There is plenty
available in the United States if only housekeepers
would make use of the information concerning new
varieties spread by the Bureau of Fisheries and by the
different State colleges.
Fish contains practically the same amount of protein
material that is found in meat with about the same
amount of phosphorus, twice as much calcium, and a
third as much iron. It is as easily digested as meat, and
has the advantage over meat of being free from the
extractives which make red meats stimulating to the
nerves.
The actual value of fish as a source of energy de-
pends upon the quantity of fat which it contains. This
is a means of classifying fish. We have two Q . fi .
large groups, the first of which is the shell-
fish comprising molluscs, such as oysters and clams,
70 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and crustaceans lobsters, crabs, and shrimps. The
members of this entire group are not considered when
we speak of fish as a meat substitute because they
fall into the class of food luxuries, since their value
as food is not proportionate to their cost. The waste
is great. For instance, in buying lobster at forty cents
a pound, as it is usual to get only half a pound of
meat from a pound of lobster, we are actually paying
at the rate of eighty cents a pound for what we eat.
The second group of fish is the vertebrate; that is,
those fish having a bony structure. Here again we have
two subdivisions: the first is composed of all of the
white fish cod, haddock, halibut, trout, flounder,
smelt, and so forth. These have no fat in their flesh, as
it is entirely contained in the liver. The other subdivi-
sion is made up of those fish that have fat in the flesh,
such as mackerel, salmon, shad, swordfish, and eels.
As a source of energy, in consequence, the fish of this
second group are equal to an equal weight of meat,
whereas those of the first group are slightly inferior.
It is never wise to order fish over the telephone, for
fish must be fresh in order to be good, and it is hardly
possible to know what fish is the freshest
Buying fish 111
on the market that morning unless we see
for ourselves. If we ask for a special kind of fish, the
fish dealer would undoubtedly have it, but would take
it from his cold-storage room when a fresh shipment of
another kind might have just come in. It is possible to
tell whether a fish is fresh by its appearance. The flesh
should be firm and not easily dented by the finger, the
eyes should be full and bright, the fins should be stiff
and not flabby. Halibut is opalescent when fresh, and
dull and opaque when old.
FISH 71
PRESERVING OF FISH
Because fish deteriorates rapidly on account of the
soft character of its flesh, there are several ways of
preserving it. The first of these is by cold
storage. Fish may be frozen solidly either
by the separate piece as is done for large fish, or in a
mass when the fish are small. They are then kept in cold
storage for a long time. It has been proven that a fish
frozen for two years has not undergone any chemical
changes. Pains must be taken, however, when buying
frozen fish, to have it delivered still frozen, as all fro-
zen flesh deteriorates more rapidly after thawing than
when fresh.
Another method of preserving fish is by salting and
drying. This is one of New England's great industries,
and the salt codfish from Gloucester is .
well known all over the country. The cod
are brought in by the fishing boats in hogsheads of
brine. They are carefully cleaned and spread on racks
in the sun to dry. The length of time for drying and
the manner of cutting the fish depend upon the prod-
uct desired. The fish that is sold in bulk is allowed to
become thoroughly dry, whereas the fish packed in
boxes is sometimes quite moist. Finnan haddie is a
haddock salted and smoked to preserve it.
Another means of preserving fish is by canning. This
is done in two ways. An example of the first method is
the great salmon industry of our North- f
f* 111 Canning
western States, where the salmon are
caught in great quantities, cleaned and cut in suitable
sizes, packed according to grade, and sterilized in the
cans. The label on the can tells specifically what is in-
72 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
side. The other manner of canning is used in the sar-
dine industry, where the small fish are pickled, steamed,
and packed in oil in the cans, the oil acting as a pre-
servative. The oil used for this purpose in France has
been olive oil, but other kinds of vegetable oils are now
used almost exclusively because of the expense.
CARE OF FISH
When fish comes from the market, it should be re-
moved from the paper in which it is wrapped and
placed on a plate before it is put into the refrigerator.
If it is left in the paper, the juices are absorbed by the
paper. Before it is used, care should be taken to see
that all the scales are removed. These can be scraped
off with the back of a knife beginning at the tail. The
fish should also be carefully washed by wiping it with a
clean piece of cheesecloth wrung out from slightly salted
water. The fish should not be allowed to stand in water.
Like all protein food, fish becomes tough and leath-
ery if it is subjected to high temperature in cooking. If
it is boiled, the water must be boiling vigorously before
the piece of fish is dropped in. This sears the outside of
the fish and helps to prevent the loss of juices. A table-
spoon of vinegar or lemon juice added to the water will
also help in the searing process. Boiling at best is a
wasteful way of cooking fish, as much of the juices of
the fish are lost in the water. It should be used only
when the piece of fish to be cooked is a compact one
like a solid chunk of salmon or halibut. If the fish is
baked, the oven should not be hot enough to dry out
the fish. White fish that are lacking in fat, such as cod
and haddock, are improved on baking by the addition
of salt pork.
FISH 73
If the fish is split, or is a small one, broiling is an
economical way of cooking it.
FISH RECIPES
BAKED FISH
(For 4-pound fisJi)
I cup cracker crumbs or I teaspoon chopped parsley
bread crumbs I teaspoon capers
I saltspoon salt I teaspoon pickles
i saltspoon pepper 1/4 cup butter (melted)
I teaspoon chopped onions
Clean the fish and wipe thoroughly, outside and in, with
cloth wrung out of cold water. Make a stuffing of above
ingredients. Put the stuffing in the cavity and sew up the
opening. Rub the fish thoroughly with salt and pepper and
butter on both sides. Cut gashes across the sides of the fish
about 2 inches apart ; in these put tiny strips of fat salt pork.
Skewer the fish in the shape of the letter S, and dredge thor-
oughly with flour. Put on cheesecloth in baking-pan with
pieces of pork placed over back and sides and bake about
15 minutes to the pound of fish, basting frequently with the
melted pork. (Butter cheesecloth, or bottom of pan where
double-roaster is used. Put bread crusts between fish and
sides of pan to prevent sticking.) When nicely browned,
serve on platter with garnitures of parsley and slices of
lemon and hard-boiled egg.
BAKED HALIBUT WITH TOMATO SAUCE
2 pounds halibut 1/2 tablespoon sugar
2 cups tomatoes 3 tablespoons butter
I cup water 3 tablespoons flour
I slice onion 3/4 teaspoon salt
3 cloves 1/8 teaspoon pepper
Cook tomatoes, water, onion, cloves, and sugar 20 min-
utes. Melt butter, add flour, and stir into hot mixture. Add
74 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
salt and pepper, cook 10 minutes, and strain. Clean fish,
wipe, put into baking-pan, pour around half the sauce, and
bake 35 minutes, basting often. Remove to hot platter, pour
around remaining sauce, and garnish with parsley.
HADDOCK BAKED IN CHEESE SAUCE
I tablespoon butter or other fat I /2 teaspoon mustard
I tablespoon flour 1/8 teaspoon pepper
I cup milk I cup grated cheese
I teaspoon salt
Melt the butter; add the flour and seasonings; stir to a
smooth paste. Add gradually the milk, then the cheese.
Cook until smooth. Pour sauce over 3 pounds of haddock,
boned and cut in fillets and placed in a baking-dish. Bake
3/4 hour. Boned haddock is called scrod.
TO COOK SCROD
Soak 1/2 hour in a pickle of 2 tablespoons each of salt
and sugar. Place in pan I cup of milk and cover with dots of
butter and I small onion chopped fine. Bake about 25 min-
utes. Baste frequently.
FILLETS OF FISH, STUFFED WITH OYSTERS
3 or 4 pounds fresh cod
I pint oysters
I cup bread crumbs mixed with
1/3 cup melted butter
I egg, beaten
Lemon juice, salt, and pepper
Remove head and skin from the fish; free the flesh from
the bones. Season fillets thus produced with salt and pepper,
and brush with lemon juice. Lay one of the seasoned fillets
on a well-greased fish-sheet. Cover with oysters dipped in
the buttered crumbs one by one. Lay the other fillet over
FISH 75
these, brush with the beaten egg diluted with a little milk,
cover thickly with buttered crumbs, and bake about I hour
in a moderate oven. Serve with Hollandaise sauce.
HADDOCK A LA NEWTON
I haddock
I tablespoon flour
I tablespoon potato flour
I egg
1/2 cup butter or other fat
Milk or cream enough to form a mold
Take the haddock from the bone and grind fine (not
cooked). Mix the fish with the cream or milk, a pinch of salt,
and a little mace. Add egg well beaten. Mix well together
with a potato masher. Place in a tin baking-pan or mold,
and bake I hour with the pan containing the mixture stand-
ing in a pan of water. Serve with white sauce.
MOLDED HALIBUT
I pound halibut, uncooked
i pint stale bread crumbs (pulled from center of loaf)
I cup cream
I teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon celery salt
Whites of 4 eggs
Chop the fish very fine. Cook the bread crumbs with the
cream to a smooth paste. Add this to the fish with the sea-
sonings. Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff and fold into
the fish mixture. Bake in a tin mold well greased. Place this
in a pan of water and bake until firm about 1/2 or 3/4
hour.
Sauce
Blanch 1/4 pound almonds, cut fine, and brown in 2
tablespoons of butter. Add 2 tablespoons of flour, pepper
76 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and salt, and pour I pint of cream in gradually. Stir until
thick and smooth.
KEDGEREE
(East Indian dish)
I cup cooked and flaked fish 2 teaspoons lemon juice
i cup cooked rice i egg, or none
I teaspoon salt i tablespoon melted butter
I /i 6 teaspoon pepper I tablespoon minced parsley
Mix ingredients, pack into a buttered bowl, and surround
with hot water. Poach until heated through. Unmold, gar-
nish with parsley, and serve.
SALMON TIMBALE OR LOAF
Individual recipe Large recipe
I tablespoon salmon, flaked i cup
I tablespoon crumbs I cup
1/4 teaspoon parsley, minced I rounding tablespoon
Salt 1/2 teaspoon
Pepper 1/16 teaspoon
1 teaspoon beaten egg, or none 2 eggs
1/4 teaspoon lemon juice i tablespoon
2 teaspoons milk 1/4 to 1/2 cup
Mix thoroughly, adding milk enough to moisten. Put into
buttered timbale molds or one bowl ; set dishes in hot water
in a moderate oven, or on back of stove, until food is heated
through. Turn out and serve with white sauce to which
minced parsley is added at last. Other fish may be used
instead of salmon.
SCALLOPED FISH
I cup flaked fish I /4 teaspoon salt
I cup stale bread crumbs 1/16 teaspoon pepper
I cup milk I to 2 tablespoons butter
Mix, put in buttered dish, cover with buttered crumbs,
and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 40 minutes.
FISH 77
SHRIMP WIGGLE
I cup boiled rice I teaspoon onion juice
1 cup cream Paprika to taste
2 tablespoons tomato catsup I can shrimps
1/2 teaspoon salt
Heat the rice in the cream until it becomes smooth, add-
ing more cream if necessary. Add flavorings. Stir in the
shrimps.
Cut-up lobster, cold salmon, chicken, or ham may be used
in place of the shrimps.
FISH CHOWDER
Home recipe Individual
2 pounds haddock or cod 1/4 pound
Slice pork I inch
1/2 onion Slice
4 potatoes 1/2 potato
3 pints cold water 1/2 cup
I pint hot milk 1/2 cup
6 crackers I cracker
I 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/4 teaspoon
Pepper to taste To taste
Have head, skin, and bones removed from fish at market,
and take home with fish. Cut fish in I -inch pieces. Put head,
skin, and bones in kettle with cold water, allow them to come
slowly to boiling point and then simmer for one half hour.
Strain this water and return it to kettle, throwing away
head, bones, and skin. Cut pork in small pieces, put in frying-
pan and fry until brown with onion cut small. Strain fat
into kettle, add potatoes which have been pared, washed, and
cut in I /4-inch slices. Cook until potatoes are nearly soft.
Add fish. Do not break fish by stirring. Add hot milk, salt,
and pepper. Put crackers in a soup-dish and soften with a
little cold milk before pouring on hot chowder. Serve at once.
78 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
SALT CODFISH HASH
Home recipe Individual
1 cup codfish 1/4 cup
2 cups potato cubes 1/2 cup
i egg i teaspoon
I to 2 tablespoons butter 3/4 to i teaspoon
Salt and pepper to taste To taste
Cook fish and potatoes together until potatoes are tender.
Drain thoroughly. Mash. Add butter, salt, and egg well
beaten. Beat mixture 3 minutes with a fork. Try out I table-
spoon salt pork cubes. Heat iron frying-pan, add i teaspoon
salt pork fat. Pour in the hash, spread evenly, and cook
slowly until a golden brown underneath, replenishing with
more fat as needed. Fold like an omelet and pour tomato
sauce around it. If moister hash is desired, more butter or
I /4 cup milk or cream may be added.
If codfish is too salty it should be washed and soaked
before using.
Tomato Sauce
2 tablespoons butter or other fat Pepper
2 tablespoons flour I cup stewed and
1/2 teaspoon salt strained tomato
Melt the fat in a saucepan. Stir the flour into it until it is
smooth. Add the tomato, stirring constantly until it boils
vigorously.
POTATO SHREDDED FISH SOUFFLE
1 box "shredded fish" 3 cups mashed potato
2 eggs Pepper
Salt
Put hot boiled potatoes through potato "ricer " ; add butter
and boiling milk and salt ; beat until very light and creamy
and soft; add eggs, beaten, and fish which has been soaked
in cold water and squeezed dry, salt and pepper to taste.
FISH 79
Put in baking-dish with butter on top and bake about 20
minutes, until light brown. Serve at once.
CODFISH BALLS
1 cup salt codfish I /2 tablespoon butter
2 heaping cups potatoes 1/8 teaspoon pepper
I egg
Wash fish in cold water, and pick in very small pieces.
Wash, pare, and soak potatoes, cutting in pieces of uniform
size before measuring. Cook fish and potatoes in boiling
water to cover until potatoes are soft. Drain through strainer,
return to kettle in which they were cooked, mash thoroughly;
add butter, egg well beaten, and salt, if necessary. Beat with
fork two minutes. Take up by spoonfuls, put in frying
basket, and fry one minute in deep fat, allowing six fish balls
for each frying ; drain on brown paper. Reheat the fat after
last frying. If preferred the fish may be formed into cro-
quettes.
FISH A LA CREME
I 3/4 cups cold flaked fish 1/2 slice onion
I cup white sauce Salt and pepper
Bit of bay leaf 1/2 cup buttered cracker crumbs
Scald milk for making of white sauce, with bay leaf, pars-
ley, and onion. Cover the bottom of small buttered platter
with one half of the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
pour over one half the sauce; repeat. Cover with crumbs,
and bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown. If preferred,
bake in scallop shells.
SCOTTISH FINNAN HADDIE
2 pounds finnan haddie I tablespoon flour
I tablespoon butter I /2 cup cold water
I pint hot milk 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
Paprika, salt, and 1/4 pound cheese, chopped or
pepper to taste grated
I egg
80 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Select a good finnan haddie. Cut it into small pieces and
put it in a small saucepan, covering with cold water. Place
it on the stove and let it come slowly to the boiling point.
Just as it begins to boil remove from the fire and let stand
in the water until it is almost cold.
Drain off the water, separate the fish into small bits, and
place in a frying-pan containing the butter melted. Fry or
saut6 for four or five minutes; then add the hot milk, season,
and let cook for five minutes longer.
Blend thoroughly the raw egg, flour, and cold water in a
small bowl. Stir this mixture into the frying-pan with the
finnan haddie and cook slowly until thickened. Just before
removing from the stove add the hard-boiled eggs and
cheese. Cover slices of toasted bread with the mixture and
serve with a salad.
SAVORY FINNAN HADDIE
1 cup finnan haddie, flaked I cup rich milk
I 1/2 cups small potato balls 2 egg yolks
2-inch cube fat salt pork Salt and pepper to
2 tablespoons flour taste
Soak a finnan haddie in milk I hour, then cook until ten-
der, and separate into flakes. Cut the salt pork into tiny dice
and try out. To 2 tablespoons of the fat add the flour and
milk. When thick and smooth, season to taste, add the pork
scraps, egg yolks, finnan haddie flakes, and potato balls
which have been cooked until soft.
FINNAN HADDIE
2 cups finnan haddie, flaked I teaspoon salt
I /4 cup butter I /3 teaspoon paprika
i tablespoon onion 1/3 cup canned pimentos
i /4 cup flour Cooked macaroni
I 1/2 cups milk Grated cheese
FISH 8l
Soak a finnan haddie in equal parts of milk and water for
I hour (enough to cover). Drain, rinse thoroughly, and sepa-
rate into flakes to make 2 cups. Cook butter and onion for
5 minutes, stirring constantly; add flour, milk, and season-
ings. When mixture thickens add flaked fish and pimentos
cut in strips. Cover a shallow baking-dish or platter with
cooked macaroni. Pour the fish over it, sprinkle with grated
cheese, and brown in oven 15 minutes. Place it under the
gas flame if it is not brown enough.
CLAM BROTH
Use 12 large hard-shelled clams for I pint of broth. Boil
the clams and juice for 20 minutes; strain and let stand to
settle; strain again carefully into a saucepan, and let broth
boil up once. Season with butter and pepper no salt
and serve in cups with whipped cream on top.
To open the clams and obtain the juice, place the clams,
after they have been carefully washed with a brush and
clear water, in a saucepan and let them steam until the
shells open ; then strain off the liquor.
CLAM CHOWDER
I quart clams I tablespoon salt
4 cups potatoes cut in 3/4 inch I /8 teaspoon pepper
diameter 4 tablespoons butter
I I /2-inch cube fat salt pork 4 cups scalded milk
i sliced onion 8 common crackers
Clean and pick over clams, using I cup cold water; drain,
reserve liquor, heat to boiling point and strain. Chop fine
hard part of clams, cut pork in small pieces and try out;
add onion, fry 6 minutes and strain into a stewpan. Parboil
potatoes 5 minutes in boiling water to cover ; drain and put
a layer in bottom of stewpan, add chopped clams, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and dredge generously with flour. Add
remaining potatoes, again sprinkle with salt and pepper,
82 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
dredge with flour, and add 21/2 cups boiling water. Cook
IO minutes, add milk, soft part of clams and butter; boil 3
minutes; and add crackers split and soaked in enough milk
to moisten. Reheat clam water to boiling point, and thicken
with i tablespoon butter and flour cooked together. Add to
chowder just before serving.
The clam water has a tendency to cause the milk to sepa-
rate, hence is added at the last.
OYSTERS FANCY ROAST
Clean i pint oysters and drain from their liquor. Put in
a blazer and plump. Shake pan or stir with fork. Add salt,
pepper, and 2 tablespoons butter; pour over 4 or 6 small
slices of toast ; garnish with parsley.
PANNED OYSTERS
With fork pressed into a butter ball rub over the bottom
of hot blazer. Cover surface of pan with rounds of toast, and
put one or two uncooked oysters on each round. Cover and
cook till plump; on each oyster put salt, pepper, and a bit of
butter. When butter has melted serve with slices of lemon.
OYSTER CANAPES
Scald a cup of cream, add 2 tablespoons of fine bread
crumbs, i tablespoon butter, a dash of paprika, and grating
of nutmeg. Then add 2 dozen oysters washed, drained, and
chopped. Stir until oysters are thoroughly heated, but do not
let mixture boil. Spread rounds of toast with butter, then
with the oyster mixture. Serve at once with olives, pimolas,
or gherkins.
FRIED OYSTERS
Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Season
with salt and pepper; roll in stale bread crumbs or cracker
crumbs, then in egg beaten slightly and diluted with a little
FISH 83
cold water; then again in crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Drain
on brown paper and serve on a folded napkin. Garnish with
parsley and serve with or without sauce tyrolienne.
SAUTED OYSTERS
Clean I pint oysters ; dry between towels, and sprinkle on
both sides with salt and pepper. Take up by the tough
muscle with plated fork and dip in bread or cracker crumbs,
or prepare as in fried oysters. Put 2 tablespoons butter in
hot frying-pan; add oysters; brown on one side; then turn
and brown on the other. Serve on a folded napkin.
JELLIED OYSTERS
Drain all the liquor from medium-sized oysters, and to it
add lemon, tarragon, paprika, whole cloves, and sticks of
mace. Heat and pour it over just enough gelatine to make it
firm. Put a layer of this liquor in a large square mold, and
as it hardens add a layer of oysters arranged symmetrically,
and pour over more of the liquor. As this hardens, put the
next layer of oysters directly over the first. Chill, cut in
squares like boxes, and serve on paper doilies, garnished with
parsley.
SCALLOPS (No. i)
Dry the scallops. Roll them in crumbs and then beaten
egg, then in crumbs again. Put a few in the frying-basket.
Fry in deep fat. Mix salt and pepper with the crumbs.
SCALLOPS (No. 2)
Cover the scallops with boiling water. Let stand 3 minutes.
Drain, and dry with a towel. Season with salt and pepper.
Dip them in beaten egg, then in crumbs. Fry in deep fat.
STEWED SCALLOPS
Wash the scallops in cold water; then drain them. Put one
pint of milk on to boil. Put 2 tablespoons butter in a pan
84 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
over the fire. When melted add 2 tablespoons flour and
stir till smooth. Add this to the hot milk, stirring con-
stantly. When boiling add the scallops. Cook 3 minutes.
Add salt and pepper.
FRIED SMELTS
Smelts, after being washed, dried, and sprinkled with
salt and pepper, are dipped into milk, then rolled in flour.
The head and tail are pinned together with a small skewer,
or wooden toothpick (to be removed after they are fried),
making them into rings. This is a pretty way for serving the
smelts, either by themselves or for garnishing other fish
dishes. Cook only as many as will cover the bottom of the
frying-basket at one time. Dress the smelts on a folded nap-
kin, and serve with mayonnaise or with tartare sauce.
BAKED SMELTS
Clean and wash the smelts. Wipe them dry, sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Dip in melted butter and bread crumbs.
Arrange them on a buttered baking-pan, and bake 15 min-
utes in a quick oven. Serve with Bearnaise sauce.
WHITEBAIT
Wash the whitebait and dry thoroughly with a towel.
Roll them in flour. Having quite a thick coating, toss them
in a sieve to shake off the loose flour. Cover the bottom of the
wire frying-basket with the fish. Put immediately into the
hot fat. Remove when a golden brown. Turn them on a
paper, and sprinkle with salt.
CHAPTER VII
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES: CHEESE AND
LEGUMES
THE foods already spoken of which can be used in
place of meat, milk and fish, both belong to the same
group of foods as meat itself. The others those to be
discussed in this chapter are connecting links be-
tween the protein group of foods and the other groups.
Cheese with its large fat content might readily be
called a fat food as well as a protein one, and the leg-
umes or pulses (which are the dried peas, beans, and
lentils) have a high percentage of starch, and could be-
long either to the foods characterized by their starch
content or be considered with other vegetables.
CHEESE
Cheese may well be used as a chief source of nitrog-
enous food, since it contains the valuable protein part
of milk together with its mineral salts. It _,
. , , Food value
contains three fourths of the total solids
in milk, which gives it nearly twice as much protein
as an equal weight of beef of the average composition
as purchased. With its 33 per cent of fat, the fuel
value is more than twice as great. The composition of
cheese is easily remembered because it is divided in
a general way between protein, fat, and water, about
33 per cent of each. There are other reasons for its im-
portance in the diet ; it can be kept and handled with
great ease in the home, it has an appetizing flavor, and
it can be served in a great variety of ways.
86 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Three fourths of the amount of cheese produced in
the United States is standard factory or American
cheese, usually made from whole cow's
milk. The protein or casein of the milk is
thrown out by the action of rennet forming a curd. It
carries most of the fat of the milk with it. This curd is
broken by knives and then heated to differing degrees.
The whey is drained off; the curd salted and pressed.
The curd is then kept for several weeks in a cool place
to ripen, or to develop the flavors by means of the ac-
tion of bacteria or molds. This ripening process is the
chief cause of the flavors of different cheeses, although
of course the variety of flavor also depends somewhat
on the type of milk used. The soft cream cheeses con-
tain more water than an ordinary factory cheese, since
they are not drained under pressure, nor are they al-
lowed to ripen so long. They are usually made from
rich cream by souring or by the action of rennet, and
after the whey is drained off the curd is salted, turned
occasionally, and is ready for market in five or six days.
Some cheeses, such as Roquefort and Gorgonzola,
are ripened by molds growing throughout the cheese.
. The tale is told of the origin of the Roque-
fort cheese that a goatherd one day was
interrupted while eating his lunch of bread and cheese,
and being a thrifty lad, put what was left on a ledge in
a near-by cave. He forgot about it, but when in that
neighborhood again some time later, he looked to see
if it was still there. To his surprise he found that in
place of the ordinary farm cheese which he had left, he
had a most delicious cheese streaked with green mold.
He took it back to the village and showed it with pride
to his mother and the other village women. For years
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 87
after, the villagers put their cheese to ripen on the
ledges in that cave and in the neighboring ones. They
found, however, that they must also place bread with
the cheese in order to get the characteristic mold.
Nowadays, however, since the scientists have isolated
the various molds and bacteria for us, Roquefort
cheese, as well as Swiss and Dutch and other varieties,
can all be turned out from the same American factory.
The Dutch women are very careful that no molds
shall be allowed to grow on their cheese, since they de-
pend entirely upon the bacteria present in the milk to
produce the proper flavor in the ripening process. They
carefully dust their cheeses every day while ripening
and when they are ready for market, they paint them
red or give them a coat of varnish to prevent any
molds from spoiling the flavor.
A cheese like Camembert is ripened by bacterial ac-
tion on the outside which gradually works in, softening
the cheese.
Other hard cheeses, such as Swiss, Parmesan, and
English dairy cheeses, are ripened by bacteria and en-
zymes, or unorganized ferments, working on the in-
side. All these changes increase the solubility of the
proteins and produce the peculiar flavor of each cheese.
When we speak of cheese as a meat substitute, we
refer only to that mild-flavored cheese known as the
American factory cheese which can be used in large
quantities. The other cheeses, which are used in small
quantity primarily for their flavor, belong to the class
of luxuries that fall "in the region of choice." They are
the ones that are referred to in the cynical remark that
"cheese digests everything but itself," since their
strong flavor is an aid to digestion.
88 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Ordinary cheese compares favorably with other
foods in the thoroughness with which it is digested in
the body; for over ninety per cent of its
Digestion ., , t w f.. r ,.
nutrients are available. It is slow of diges-
tion, however, because of the intimate combination of
fat and protein material. The burning sensation some-
times felt after eating cheese is due to the presence of
free fatty acids in the cheese, that are caused by over-
cooking which decomposes the fat. Another reason
why cheese may cause uncomfortable sensations is due
to the way in which it is used. A Welsh rarebit eaten
late in the evening after three good meals have already
been consumed may cause a restless night, but the
cheese should not be blamed for the nightmare, since
the body has already had all the food required for the
twenty-four hours and objects to the added burden
placed upon it at that hour.
American cheeses are usually shipped in cakes
of twenty-six or thirty-two pounds apiece, and are
Care in the wrapped in heavy canvas. When cut and
home delivered at the house, care should be
taken that cheese does not dry and that it does not be-
come moldy. It should be wrapped in a slightly damp
cloth and kept in a cool place. Air should never be
wholly excluded from it, since molds grow more read-
ily in the absence of air.
When planning a meal in which cheese is to take the
place of meat, great care should be taken with the
Use in the foods used in combination with it. It is
diet not well to substitute cheese for the meat
and leave the rest of the meal the same. The reason for
this is that cheese is a more concentrated food than
meat, containing a larger proportion of fat and protein
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 89
and much less water. It must be used along with
watery foods like fruits and vegetables. As it is also
entirely lacking in any form of carbohydrate, it is well
combined with starchy dishes, bread, rice, or macaroni.
All cheese dishes are apt to be soft in consistency, so that
in order to get variety and increase the palatability of
the meal, it is well to include in the menu hard foods,
such as toast, crisp buns, or hard cookies. A cheese
souffle might be accompanied by a baked potato, crisp
cinnamon buns, two green vegetables, with a fruit
salad or stewed or baked fruit and crisp cookies for
dessert.
LEGUMES OR PULSES
The pulses, which include all kinds of dried beans,
peas, and lentils, have been used as a very valuable
food for many hundreds of years. They
, . Value as food
were known and cultivated by the an-
cient peoples of Egypt, India, and other countries.
The customary way of using them was to roast or
parch them, then grind them into a flour which was
cooked in soup or made into cakes. The soup tablets
used by mountain-climbers and explorers are made on
a basis of finely ground peas, beans, and lentils. Differ-
ent varieties of these valuable foods grow in all cli-
mates, and our Government has stimulated the culti-
vation of certain types especially valuable for food,
such as the soy bean and the pinto bean.
They vary little in their general composition, with
the exception of the soy bean and the peanut, which
may be classed with the beans. When they are
dried they have very little water, about 10 per cent.
They contain about 65 per cent of carbohydrate, 22
90 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
to 25 per cent of protein material, about 4 per cent of
mineral salts, and I per cent of fat. Their fuel value is
greater than that of meat. Soy beans and peanuts dif-
fer from the others in that they contain a much larger
percentage of fat (16 per cent for soy beans, 38 per cent
for peanuts), whereas their starch content is corre-
spondingly low.
They are a hearty food, and like cheese suitable only
for vigorous people. The woody fiber which surrounds
each bean, and makes up the framework of all vegeta-
tion, interferes with the absorption of the nutrients
present. It may also act as a local irritant hastening
the food through the digestive tract. If the starch has
not been thoroughly cooked, it is apt to ferment and
cause flatulence. When the beans, however, are com-
bined carefully with other food materials, the work of
digestion is distributed and causes no difficulty. They
are extremely valuable as a source of nitrogen for men
and women who are exercising vigorously, lumbermen
and day-laborers, for instance.
All legumes should be soaked at least eight hours
before cooking. It is better if a half teaspoonful of soda
How to use is added to two quarts of water for the
legumes soaking to help soften the fiber. They
should then be boiled until thoroughly tender. Soft
water or rainwater should be used for boiling if possi-
ble ; since the protein of the pulses tends to form insolu-
ble compounds with the lime and the magnesium salts
found in hard water. After the beans are boiled, they
can be used in a great variety of ways. The one most
familiar to the New Englander is the historic baked
bean. Why should we be bound by the habits of our
ancestors and continue to have that particular food
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 91
every Saturday night? When our Puritan grandmoth-
ers did all their baking in a brick oven, it was quite
logical that they should build the fire in the oven on
Saturday in order to have plenty of food for over the
Sabbath, since they did no cooking whatever on the
Lord's Day. Being thrifty souls, they utilized every
particle of heat present in the bricks of the oven. The
pies and biscuits, which required the greatest heat,
went in first, then the cake and bread; and then, in
order to utilize all the heat left in the bricks, in went
the bean-pot. Would it not be more logical for those of
us who use coal ranges and do our ironing on Tuesday
to have our beans for supper Tuesday night, since we
could thus utilize the heat of the oven and have a very
simple supper to serve after a fatiguing day?
There are many other ways of serving the boiled
legumes than as baked beans. They may be mashed
through a strainer and the pulp thus obtained used as
a basis for soups, such as the black bean, split pea, and
lentil soups; or this pulp or puree may be well sea-
soned, mixed with fat, and served as a dish by itself of
about the consistency of mashed potato. The pur6e
could also be used as a stuffing for green peppers or
tomatoes ; or it may be mixed with celery, pimentos, a
little cheese, and baked in a pan and served as a roast
with a well-seasoned gravy. This same pur6e makes a
good filling for hearty sandwiches or it may be served
cold with greens as a salad.
It must be noted that in using this material in place
of meat, it, like cheese, must be carefully combined
with the proper foods. Unlike cheese, it contains a
large amount of starch and has no fat, so that in serv-
ing, it is not necessary to increase the amount of starch
92 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
served with it but it is always well to see that there is
some fat in the meal in some form or other. This is
the reason for serving salt pork with baked beans. It
is poor management to serve a rice or bread pudding
as a dessert for a supper made up exclusively of baked
beans and brown bread. Instead, fruit, either cooked
or raw, should be used for dessert, and vegetables, such
as greens or tomatoes, or salads which contain water
and make up in bulk for the concentration of the beans,
should be served with them. Of course it is not neces-
sary to serve meat at a meal in which are used baked
beans or other forms of the pulses, such as split-pea
soup or green peppers stuffed with lentils.
Attention should be called to the high food value of
the humble peanut. It is rich in both protein material
and fat and has a far greater fuel value
than an equal weight of beefsteak. When
ground up into the form of peanut butter, it makes an
economical and palatable substitute for both butter
and meat. A good many people object to the drying
quality of peanut butter; but if it is used in combina-
tion with a sour jam or marmalade in fillings for sand-
wiches or on toast or bread, this objection is overcome.
Peanut butter when used for breakfast could be sub-
stituted for the usual egg and for butter on the toast.
NUTS
Nuts vary considerably in their composition, but
are used by vegetarians as meat substitutes. The
chestnut contains more starch than any of the other
nuts, and has a lower protein and fat content. Brazil
nuts and pecans are particularly high in fat, while they
have from 12 to 20 per cent protein material. They all
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 93
have, however, so much woody fiber or cellulose that
it is difficult for the body to obtain what nutrients are
present in the nuts, and unless they are ground very
fine, they are difficult of digestion. This objection to-
gether with their high cost makes them a rather im-
practicable substitute for meat.
CHEESE RECIPES
WELSH RAREBIT
1 pound full cream American cheese
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup milk or 1/2 cup beer or ale'
I tablespoon Worcestershire
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
Dash of cayenne
1/2 teaspoon salt
If cheese is strong add yolks of 2 eggs well beaten. 1/16
teaspoonful soda may be added. Always cook cheese over
water. Melt butter. Melt cheese, keeping it always in mo-
tion, add liquid gradually, then seasoning; when smooth
and creamy serve on hot crackers or toast.
FONDUE
I cup bread crumbs; soak 1/2 hour in
I cup milk
I tablespoon butter
I cup cheese cut fine (1/2 pound)
1/4 teaspoon salt
Speck of cayenne
1/2 egg-yolk
Cook over water. Melt butter, add cheese, melt it, grad-
ually add soaked bread crumbs, then seasoning; with last
portion of bread crumbs add the egg. When smooth and hot
serve on toast.
94 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
CHEESE SOUFFLE
2 tablespoons butter 1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons flour Few grains cayenne
1/2 cup scalded milk 1/4 cup grated cheese
3 eggs
Melt butter, add flour; when well mixed add gradually
scalded milk. Then add salt, cayenne, and cheese. Remove
from fire; add yolks of eggs beaten until lemon-colored. Cool
mixture, cut and fold in white of eggs beaten until stiff and
dry. Pour into a buttered baking-dish and bake 20 minutes
in slow oven. Serve at once.
CHEESE SOUFFLE
1 cup milk I /6 teaspoon mustard
2 tablespoons butter 1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons flour Cayenne
4 eggs I pound American cheese
2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
Make a white sauce with the flour, butter, and milk. Stir
the cheese into the warm sauce. Add seasonings. Beat the
yolks and whites of eggs separately, till stiff. Cut and fold
into cooled cheese mixture, yolks first. Put in greased baking-
dish, and bake in moderate oven, standing in pan of hot
water.
BAKED BREAD AND CHEESE
6 slices stale bread I pint milk, skimmed
1/4 pound mild cheese Salt, paprika
Put slices of bread in buttered baking-dish. Cover with
slices of cheese. Sprinkle well with salt and paprika. Repeat
until dish is full, leaving the bread on the top. Pour in the
milk.
Let stand an hour. Bake 40 minutes in a moderate oven.
Serve at once.
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 95
LIMA BEAN AND CHEESE ROAST
(Meat substitute)
2 cups cooked Lima beans
1/4 pound cream cheese, commercial or home-made
3 canned pimentos, chopped
1/2 cup approximately, bread crumbs
Mash the beans through a potato ricer. Mix thoroughly
with the chopped cheese and pimentos. Add bread crumbs
until it is stiff enough to form into a roll. Brown in the oven,
basting occasionally with fat and water.
CORN, TOMATO, AND CHEESE
1 tablespoon butter or 2 egg-yolks or i egg, whole
other fat I teaspoon salt
2 cups grated cheese 1/2 teaspoon paprika
3/4 cup canned corn I clove of garlic or onion juice
I ripe pimento 4 slices of bread
1/2 cup tomato pur6e
Stir the cheese into the melted fat until cheese is melted.
Add all other ingredients except the egg. Toast the bread
on one side and rub the untoasted side lightly with garlic or
onion. Stir the beaten egg into the mixture, cook for a few
minutes and pour over the untoasted side of the bread.
Serve at once.
TOASTED SANDWICH
2 slices of bread 3/8 inch Hot fat or butter in which to
thick toast sandwich
1 egg, beaten I layer cottage cheese 3/8 inch
2 slices of raw tomato thick
Put layer of cottage cheese between slices of bread. When
sandwich is completed, dip in beaten egg and toast quickly
in hot fat or butter. Cut diagonally and serve with a slice of
96 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
raw tomato on each section. The addition of pimento, mixed
with the cheese, improves this dish.
COTTAGE CHEESE NUT LOAF
Group i Group 2
1 cup cottage cheese I cup dry bread crumbs
1/4 cup peanut butter 1/2 cup walnut or native nut
2 tablespoons melted meats cut not too fine
butter i teaspoon salt
I tablespoon minced 1/2 rounded teaspoon sage
raw onion 1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
In one bowl mix group i. In another bowl mix group 2.
Work contents of 2 bowls together, pack in cake tin and
bake in moderately hot oven until top is brown. Serve with
mushroom, tomato, or brown sauce, or use as sandwich
filling, or sliced cold.
CHEESE FILLING
1 pint milk Butter size of small egg
2 tablespoons cornstarch 2 "Snappy" cheeses
or rice flour
Put milk and butter in double boiler, leaving out i /2 cup
milk. Mix the latter with the rice flour. When the milk is
hot, pour slowly into flour mixture and put back in boiler.
Stir until smooth and well cooked, then add 2 "Snappy"
cheeses broken up in pieces, i teaspoon paprika, i tea-
spoon salt, dash of cayenne.
Cool and keep in glass jar in ice chest. This can be used
for sandwiches, or brush "Barley Biscuits" with melted
butter, then spread cheese filling on thickly, sprinkle paprika
on top, and put in oven until hot. Can be heated over and
used as a Welsh rarebit or cheese sauce, thinned out with a
little cream or milk.
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 97
CHEESE TOAST
3 ounces mild cheese 2 teaspoons mustard
Yolks of 2 eggs Salt and red pepper
3 ounces butter
Grate the cheese ; mix it with the yolks of eggs and butter.
Beat it well, adding the seasonings. Toast some bread in
2-inch long narrow strips, spread thickly with the mixture,
put in covered pan in hot oven until heated through, then
remove cover and let brown.
CHEESE RAMEKIN
2 slices bread
1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons butter or other fat
4 tablespoons grated cheese
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
Cook the bread in the milk until it is smooth. Add the fat
and cheese. Cook one minute; take off and pour over yolks
of eggs, well beaten, mustard, salt, and pepper. Fold in the
whites beaten very stiff; pour into buttered baking-dish and
bake 15 minutes.
RISOTTO
1 cup rice 11/2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons butter Paprika
1 1 2 onion 2 to 3 cups stock or water
I cup tomato pulp 1/2 cup grated cheese
Put the rice over fire with plenty of cold water and let
boil 5 minutes, then drain, and rinse. Melt the butter in a
saucepan, add rice and onion, let cook until butter is ab-
sorbed, then add the tomato pulp, salt, paprika, and liquid.
98 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Let cook until rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Then
stir the cheese in carefully. Take out the onion, use a fork
and stir or lift the rice carefully to avoid breaking the
grains. Serve very hot.
CHEESE AND EGGS
Soak I cup of dried bread crumbs in fresh milk. Beat into
this 3 eggs, add I tablespoon of butter and 1/2 pound of
grated cheese. Strew upon the top sifted bread crumbs and
bake in oven until a delicate brown.
CHEESE CROQUETTES
3 tablespoons butter 11/2 cups mild cheese, grated
1/4 cup flour Salt and pepper
2/3 cup milk Few grains cayenne
Yolks 2 eggs
Make a thick white sauce, using butter, flour, and milk;
add yolks of eggs and stir until well mixed, then add cheese.
As soon as grated cheese melts, remove from fire and season
with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Spread in shallow pan and
cool. Turn on a board, cut in small squares or strips, dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain on
brown paper.
CHEESE SCALLOP
1 cup crumbs 1/4 pound cheese, grated
2 tablespoons butter 11/2 cups milk, hot
1/4 teaspoon salt 2 eggs
1/8 teaspoon paprika
Melt butter, stir in crumbs, and mix thoroughly with
grated cheese. Beat eggs together, add slowly the hot milk,
and pour the mixture on the crumbs and cheese ; season and
pour into buttered molds. Set in hot water in moderate
oven till set like a custard.
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 99
CHEESE PATTIES
Individual recipe Large recipe
I rounding tablespoon grated cheese 1/2 pound
1/2 teaspoon melted butter I tablespoon
i scant teaspoon milk I tablespoon
I teaspoon egg I egg
Salt 1/2 teaspoon
Paprika
Mix all to a smooth paste. Make patty cases as follows:
Have slices of bread one inch thick; shape with large round
cutter, then with smaller round cutter cut part way through
the slice and dig out center. Spread lightly with butter and
brown in oven. Fill case with cheese and place in oven just
long enough to soften cheese.
CHEESE CANAPES (I)
Toast circular pieces of bread, sprinkle with a thick layer
of grated cheese, season with salt and cayenne. Place on a
tin sheet and bake until cheese is melted. Serve at once.
CHEESE CANAPES (H)
Spread circular pieces of toast with a thin layer of French
mustard and proceed as in Canapes I.
RECIPES FOR LEGUMES
LENTIL OR SPLIT-PEA SOUP
1 cup dried lentils or peas 3 tablespoons butter
2 cups of cold water 4 tablespoons flour
1/2 onion I 1/2 teaspoons salt
2-inch cube of fat salt pork 1/3 teaspoon pepper
Pick over lentils or peas, and soak overnight. Drain ; add
ioo FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
cold water (enough to make 4 cups with the amount ab-
sorbed), pork, and onion, simmer until soft 3 or 4 hours
and rub through a sieve. Cook the butter, flour, and season-
ing as for white sauce. Add the pulp and cook well. If it is
too thick, thin out with water or milk.
Additional flavoring for black and white bean soups
2 slices of carrot 1 , , . , , . , .
, . . ( browned in I tablespoon fat and
2 slices ot turnip, > ,, , , , . .
. , added before straining
1/4 of a green pepper J
1/8 of a bay leaf
3 peppercorns
I clove
DRIED BEAN SOUP
I pint beans
1 large onion, minced fine
4 tablespoons drippings or butter
3 tablespoons flour
A few dried celery leaves
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
3 pints cold water
2 quarts boiling water
Wash the beans. Put plenty of cold water over them, and
soak overnight. Pour off the water and put the beans in a
kettle with the 3 pints of cold water. Bring the water to
the boiling point and pour it off. Add the boiling water to
the beans and let them simmer for 4 hours. Add the celery
the last hour of cooking. Strain the soup. Brown the onion
in the drippings. Add the flour and cook, stirring often.
Add the thickening and seasoning to the soup and cook 20
minutes.
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 101
BAKED BEAN SOUP
i cup baked beans
1 cup tomato
3 cups water
Cook and strain. Make a sauce with
2 teaspoons butter
2 teaspoons flour
I 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon mustard
1/8 teaspoon pepper
and strained liquid. Let it cook well. If desired, a slice of
onion may be added to the tomato.
GREEN PEPPERS STUFFED WITH COW PEAS
I tablespoon butter or other fat
I tablespoon onion finely chopped
1 tablespoon sweet green pepper finely chopped
2 cups cooked cow peas
I /2 cup grated cheese
Cook the onion and pepper in the fat, being careful not to
brown, and add them to the peas and cheese.
Cut sweet green peppers into two pieces lengthwise, re-
move all the seeds, and fill each piece with the mixture.
Bake in a moderate oven until the peppers are soft. Baste
occasionally.
LENTIL LOAF
(Substitute for meat)
1/2 cup dried lentils I onion, grated
1/3 to 1/2 cup soft bread crumbs I pimento, chopped
3 tablespoons melted I teaspoon salt
butter or other fat Mace
I egg Dash of cayenne
Soak the lentils overnight. Drain, cover with cold water,
and boil until tender. Press through a sieve to remove skins.
102 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Cook onion in melted butter. Add to lentil pur6e together
with pimento, bread crumbs, and seasonings. Mix in well-
beaten egg. Bake in bread-pan, in a loaf, about 30 minutes
in a moderate oven, basting occasionally with oil or butter.
Serve with tomato sauce.
Tomato Sauce
2 tablespoons flour I cup stewed and strained
1/2 teaspoon salt tomato
Melt fat, add flour and salt. Stir until smooth. Add tomato
juice, stir constantly until it boils.
BOSTON ROAST
3/4 cup red kidney beans I teaspoon salt
I cup grated cheese 3 tablespoons butterine melted
1/4 cup bread crumbs in 1/2 cup water
Soak kidney beans overnight in water to cover, drain,
cover with fresh water, and cook until tender and water is
almost evaporated. Mash beans or put them through a meat-
grinder. Add grated cheese and bread crumbs to make the
mixture stiff enough to be formed into a roll. Add salt and
bake in a moderate oven, basting occasionally with melted
butterine.
Serve with tomato sauce. This dish may be flavored with
onion.
PECAN NUT LOAF, WHITE SAUCE
5 riced potatoes I I /3 cups hot milk
3 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup finely chopped pecan
I teaspoon salt nut meats
Few grains pepper I cup white sauce
To riced potatoes add butter, salt, pepper and hot milk.
Beat with fork until creamy and pack into a slightly but-
tered shallow pan. Set in pan of hot water and let stand in
a moderate oven until thoroughly reheated. Turn on hot
OTHER MEAT SUBSTITUTES 103
platter, sprinkle with finely chopped pecan nut meats, pour
around one cup white sauce and garnish with parsley.
VEGETABLE ROAST
I cup vermicelli or rice I cup bread crumbs
I 1/2 cups boiling water I cup chopped walnuts
3 small onions I teaspoon chopped parsley
3 tablespoons drippings 1/2 teaspoon poultry seasoning
I egg I teaspoon salt
Cook vermicelli or rice in boiling water until tender.
Finely chop the onions, and cook in drippings until tender
and yellow. Add egg well beaten and the cooked vermicelli,
bread crumbs, chopped walnuts, chopped parsley, poultry
seasoning, and salt.
Mix well, shape in a loaf, and place in a baking-dish. Bake
I hour in a moderate oven, basting frequently with melted
drippings. Serve with brown sauce.
Brown Sauce (or Tomato Sauce may be used)
tablespoons oleomargarine 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 slice onion I cup boiling water
3 tablespoons flour I teaspoon vegex
1/4 teaspoon salt
Melt the oleomargarine, add onion, and cook until oleo-
margarine is well browned. Add flour mixed with salt and
pepper, and stir until flour is browned. Add boiling water in
which has been dissolved the vegex. Stir until sauce boils and
strain.
RICE AND NUT LOAF
I well-filled cup warm boiled I cup peanuts, chopped fine
rice I cup crumbs (made of stale
I cup milk barley biscuits)
I egg 1/4 teaspoon pepper
Salt to taste
104 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
> Mix and put in buttered bread-pan. Set into another pan
of water and bake 1/2 hour. Put two tablespoons of
melted butter on top. When the loaf is done turn out on
platter and serve with cheese or tomato sauce. (Use rule
given for cheese sauce ; common cheese may be used instead
of "Snappy.")
Quick Tomato Sauce
I can tomato soup 1/2 can hot water
1/4 teaspoon ground clove A dried celery leaf or two
I tablespoon sugar I slice onion
A dash of paprika 1/2 teaspoon salt
CREAMED PEANUTS AND RICE
1 cup rice (uncooked) 3 tablespoons flour
2 cups chopped peanuts 3 tablespoons fat
1/2 teaspoon paprika 3 cups milk (whole or skim)
2 teaspoons salt
Boil rice. Make white sauce by mixing flour in melted fat
and mixing with milk. Stir over fire until it thickens. Mix
rice, peanuts, and seasoning with sauce, place in greased
baking-dish and bake for 20 minutes.
CHAPTER VIII
CEREALS
WITH this chapter we begin the study of another group
of food substances, the carbohydrates, which is di-
vided into two subdivisions, starches and sugars. These
may look alike when in powdered form, but they taste
very differently and are quite different in their chemical
composition. The sugars will be left to a later chapter.
When looked at under the microscope, raw starch is
seen to be made up of a mass of cells, each with a
woody coat, embedded in a network of changes
woody fiber. The markings on the woody starch
coat of the small granules differ with the under s es
source of the starch ; that from the potato is marked in
one way and that from oats, barley, and rice in still
different ways, so that each can be readily detected by
close examination. When mixed with cold water, starch
does not dissolve, but settles on standing. When, how-
ever, this mixture of starch and water is heated, it
undergoes a chemical change. The woody coats of the
starch granules are broken open by heat, as is also the
woody fiber framework of the starch itself, permitting
the starch to swell, and forming a thick paste with the
water. This is said to be the hydrolysis of the starch,
and unless starch has gone through this change, it can-
not be properly acted upon by the digestive juices.
If this paste is heated further, it will become thinner
until finally it is a watery liquid again. This is due to
the fact that the starch has undergone a further chemi-
cal change, gradually becoming first a gum called "dex-
io6 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
trine," and then a sugar known as "maltose." This
change in the chemical form of the starch can be pro-
duced more rapidly by dry heat. When flour is browned
on the pan for brown gravy, we are making dextrine
from some of the starch granules. Since dextrine is
soluble in water, the browned flour will not thicken
as well as ordinary flour, and more must be used to
the same proportion of water. We also dextrinize the
starch in our bread when we make a slice of toast,
which is the reason why a piece of dry toast is more
easily digested than a slice of fresh bread.
Starch is found exclusively in the vegetable king-
dom. It is the form which nature takes for the storage
Source of of food for the use of the plant at some
starch future time. Usually this storehouse of
food is laid by for the nourishment of the seedling
which will make the new plant; hence starch is found
in seeds or tubers where the embryo lies dormant.
Starch, as human food, is taken primarily from the
seeds of plants belonging to the grass family, such as
wheat, rye, oats, barley, and rice. We also find it in
the kernel of the corn, in the tuber of the potato, and
in the root of some tropical plants which gives us ar-
rowroot and tapioca. Sago is prepared from the pith
of several species of palms, natives of the East Indies.
But all of these are the same chemical substance though
appearing on the market in different forms.
The term "cereal" has two distinct meanings as
generally used. The correct use of the term is when it
is applied to the grain itself, while its secondary mean-
ing is the product made from the grain in the form of a
breakfast food.
The structure of the kernels of all grain is much the
CEREALS 107
same. The outside is well protected by several bran
coats five in the case of wheat. The in- structure
side is divided into two parts, one, much of kemel
larger than the other, is called the "endosperm," and
the smaller one is known as the "germ." In the germ
we find protein material, since here we have the ma-
terial which will eventually form the new plant. We also
find in the germ whatever fat there is in the grain. It
contains minute quantities of substances known as
"enzymes," or unorganized ferments, which enable it
to utilize for food the starch material in the endosperm.
The endosperm itself, along with its mass of starch
granules embedded in woody fiber, contains a network
of protein material. This particular protein material is
known as "gluten," and is found in greater quantity in
wheat and rye than in any other cereal. It is because of
this substance that wheat and rye make a porous loaf
of bread. The Biblical phrase, "Except a seed fall into
the ground and die, it cannot live," is literally true,
since the life of the seedlet depends entirely upon the
fermentation of the starch in the grain, as it cannot be
used for food until it is turned through fermentation
into the soluble form of sugar.
The cereal grains have been used for human food for
many hundreds of years. It is one of the wonders of na-
ture that a grain suitable as a food for the Use of grains
people of different climates grows abund- for food
antly in those climates. Rice, for instance, which has
the lowest fat content of any of the grains, grows in
warm climates where the people do not need fatty
food; while oats and corn, the two that are richest in
fat, are indigenous to cold climates where fat is essen-
tial. The grains were first used whole, being parched on
io8 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
hot stones or in ashes. Later it was found to be more
convenient to use them after they had been cracked by
pounding between stones and the coarser bran re-
moved. In this form they were boiled with water and
used as mushes. Still later this process was carried
further and meals were made from the grain by a pro-
longed pounding in a mortar with a pestle or between
stones. The woman of the primitive race was the one to
prepare the meals, until later, animals were harnessed
in such a manner as to turn one stone upon another.
As the ingenuity of the races increased, the forces
of nature were used for this grinding. Stones were still
used as grinding surfaces, but the upper millstone was
now turned by wind or water. Survivals of these old-
fashioned mills are still to be found on Long Island
and in the South. Meal from such a mill contained
the whole of the kernel of corn or wheat, with the ex-
ception of the outermost bran coats which were sifted
out. This produced a meal containing fat which grew
rancid on standing and could not be kept for any length
of time. As the development of machinery progressed,
the old-fashioned millstones were replaced by modern
steel machinery.
A modern flour-mill is a very complicated institution
and cannot be gone into in detail here. The grinding
surfaces are steam rollers arranged in se-
ries through which the grain is passed and
many products are obtained. Sometimes as many as
fifty are turned out from a single mill. Since these roll-
ers are slightly heated, the effect is very different from
that obtained by the old-fashioned stones. The endo-
sperm or starchy part of the kernel is made brittle and
can easily be pulverized, whereas the germ, which con-
CEREALS 109
tains the fat, is flattened out when passed through the
rollers and is separated from the meal at the first sift-
ing. This gives a meal which is almost entirely lacking
in fat, while the caked germ is used for the oil which can
be extracted from it, then is finally made into fodder
for cattle. With wheat this process is carried to its
greatest extent until we have a large variety of flours
in use on the market. We will discuss these more fully
in the next chapter.
With the shortage of wheat due to war conditions we
have learned to use and to appreciate more of the ce-
real products than we have known before. Grains used
Flour has been made from barley, corn, for bread-
oats, and rice as well as from the more makmg
familiar rye and wheat, and all of these can be used to
take the place of some of the wheat in bread-making.
Because of their lack of gluten, to make a successful
loaf of bread they cannot be used in a greater propor-
tion than a third of the substitute to two thirds of
wheat. As a usual thing wheat, rye, and corn are the
three grains that are used for breads; the others are
used whole or ground as meal for other purposes. The
use of barley, rye, and wheat for bread is thought to
mark the stages in the growth of the wealth of a na-
tion. As people become more prosperous they discard
barley bread for rye, while wheat bread has always
been the sign of luxury.
There is no real reason for this difference in use ex-
cept for the flavor, as barley contains just as much
nourishment as wheat. It contains less ,
f ,,-i Barley
fat than corn or oats, and slightly more
starch than oats or wheat. It is of very ancient origin,
growing in a wider range of climate than any other
I io FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
cereal and was the chief bread plant of the ancients
and of Europe down to the sixteenth century. Because
of its great enzymic power it is used for malting and
makes a basis for all beers and ales. When the hull is
removed it is sold as pearl barley. Its importance as a
national resource is shown by the extent of its produc-
tion in the United States. As a crop, it ranks fourth,
corn, wheat, and oats being its superiors. It is used to
make gruel for infants and invalids.
Corn, rightly known as maize, is native to America,
though its cultivation has spread rapidly to Europe,
northern Africa, and Asia. It is grown to
so great an extent in this country that the
supply that is turned into cornmeal could be increased
tenfold without changing the amount of land now de-
voted to corn-raising. An increase in the demand for
cornmeal would make it more profitable for the farmer
to sell his corn to the miller than to use it for feed.
Many commercial products are made from corn,
among which are corn syrups and commercial glucose.
It is not surely known that oats were cultivated by
the Egyptians or Hebrews, Greeks, or Romans. They
are thought to have been used first by
the peoples of eastern Europe or Tartary.
They were cultivated by prehistoric western Europe,
but not until after wheat and barley were in use. The
production of oats increased rapidly, until in Scotland
to-day it occupies one third of the land cultivated in
crops and in Ireland one half of all grain and green
crops. This grain contains a larger percentage of crude
fiber than maize at the expense of starch, while the
kernel is richer in protein and fat than any other of our
cereals. It is used chiefly in the form of oatmeal.
CEREALS in
Rice is known to have been cultivated in China be-
fore 2800 B.C. It was introduced into Europe by the
Saracens, and was brought to the United
States in 1694 as a present to the Gov-
ernor of South Carolina. It has been grown in this
country since that time. There has been much talk of
late of the harm caused by the use of "polished" rice.
The reason for this is that in order to have a pure white
rice, the kernels are subjected to a process by which all
of the bran is very carefully removed. This takes away
from the rice a large proportion of its mineral matter
and its vitamines. This loss is an important one where
rice is practically the sole article of diet, as is the case
among the very poor of China and the Philippines,
and is no doubt the cause of such diseases as beriberi.
Where rice is used, however, two or three times a week
and is only one article of a very mixed diet, the loss is
too small to be considered. Cured or brown rice, how-
ever, is to be had on the market for those who want it,
but requires longer cooking than the "polished" rice.
The cultivation of rye is not so ancient as the culti-
vation of wheat or barley. It contains less protein and
fat than wheat, but it does contain gluten
which makes it possible to make a porous
bread from it. It is found in the market both as fine
and coarse flour. Like barley it is used for the manu-
facture of alcohol and alcoholic beverages and as a feed
for cattle.
All of these, together with wheat, are used in one
form or another for breakfast cereals. When used
whole, the husks only are removed and the Breakfast
grains require a very long, slow cooking. cereals
In this form they are served as porridge. Oats are the
112 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
most common, though corn in the form of hominy has
long been in use. These have been considerably re-
placed by prepared cereals known as "rolled oats" and
wheat. The kernel is partly cooked by steam at the
factory and pressed while wet between rollers. It is to
be noted that this type of cereal has not been thor-
oughly cooked, and is much better if given a longer
cooking than is specified on the box.
There are many other specially prepared cereals on
the market. These are usually sold in packages with
trade names. The processes of their manufacture are
secret; but in a general way the grains are cleaned, the
husks removed, and the grains cooked or dried and
crushed. Some have salt, molasses, or sugar added,
while some are colored with caramel. Some are rolled
very thin. Those that are like dried crumbs have prob-
ably been made into dough, baked, crushed, and then
browned. Some are shredded and many are parched or
toasted. Malted breakfast foods are treated by malt in
the process of manufacture. Malt is barley which has
been allowed to germinate and then kiln-dried. Those
cereals which are called "puffed" have been heated
under pressure at a high temperature and the pressure
suddenly diminished. The general composition of all
these is very much the same with a fairly high pro-
tein content, from 9 to 15 per cent, and carbohydrates
65 to 75 per cent. The fat is the most variable con-
stituent, being greatest in these foods from corn and
oats and lowest in rice, varying from 5 to 0.2 per
cent. The ash proportion is small, from 0.5 to 2 per
cent.
Uncooked cereals should all be given a long, slow
cooking to break up the starch granules. They are best
CEREALS 113
stirred into rapidly boiling salted water and allowed
to cook directly over the fire from five to Cooking of
ten minutes. They can then be placed in cereals
the top of a double boiler on the back of the stove, or,
better still, in the fireless cooker for overnight. It is to
be remembered that no cereal can be overcooked, even
though it is partly cooked to begin with. The longer it
is cooked the more digestible it is. The general pro-
portion for the amount of water to be used with cereals
is one part of cereal to four parts of water for the
granular varieties and one part of cereal to two parts of
water for the flaked. These proportions, however, do
not hold true where the cereal is allowed to boil vigor-
ously for some time, as the water boils away rapidly.
Although cereals purchased in packages are apt to be
cleaner and are more easily handled in the home, it is
to be noted that they cost more than those bought in
bulk. The ready-to-eat kind are higher in price than
the partially cooked, though their nutrient value is
practically the same, pound for pound. Many are so
light, however, that the value received for the money
paid is very low. The cost of malted cereals is more to
the producer; hence a higher price to the purchaser.
It is perfectly possible to use cereal breakfast food in
other ways than for breakfast dishes. Rice, hominy,
and fried cornmeal mush are already in constant use to
supply the starch at lunch or dinner. Others can be
used for spiced steam pudding, small cakes, and other
desserts. When cooked with dates or figs they can be
molded and served cold with cream. In the form of
mushes, gruels, and cereal jellies they have a valu-
able place in the diet of children, old people, and
invalids.
ii 4 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
RELATIVE VALUES OF CEREALS AS PURCHASED
Unit of purchase
Cost
Total
calories
Calories
for 10 c.
Oatmeal
i Ib. 4 oz. package
12
IQI2
158}+
Oatmeal
I Ib. by bulk
O7
l8OO
2571
Cornmeal
I Ib. 8 oz. package
12
24.IQ
2OI5
Cornmeal
I Ib. by bulk
O7
i6n
2^O4
Hominy
Ib. 8 oz. package
08
2412
^OI5
Samp
Ib. by bulk
08
l6o8
2OIO
Cracked wheat. .
Cream of wheat .
Wheatena
Ib. 10 oz. package
Ib. 12 oz. package
Ib. 8 oz. package
25
.23
18
2652
2870
1047
I06O+
1247
1081
Rice
Ib. by bulk
18
ISQI
88^
Shredded wheat
Puffed rice
12 oz. package
5 oz. package
-14
is
1243
soo
887+
^^^+
Corn flakes
8 oz. package
15
800
S334"
Graham flour. . . .
White flour
i Ib.
i Ib.
.07
08 \
1627
1600
2324+
1888+
Bread
i Ib. 5 oz. loaf
.15
I 54.1
1 002
Proportions for Cooking Cereals
Kind Amount
Water
Salt
Time
Cornmeal
i
cup
4
to
5
cups
I
teaspoon
I to
3
hours
Granular cereals
i
cup
4
to
6
cups
I
teaspoon
1/2
to
i hour
Hominy
i
cup
4
cups
I
teaspoon
3 to
5
hours
Oatmeal
i
cup
4
cups
I
teaspoon
3 to
4
hours
Rice, boiled
i
cup
8 to 12
cups
I
teaspoon
30 minutes
Rice, steamed
i
cup
4
cups
I
teaspoon
I to
3
hours
Rolled oats
i
cup
2
to
3
cups
I
teaspoon
I to
3
hours
CEREAL RECIPES
OATMEAL SOUP
Boil I cup rolled oats with 2 cups boiling water. When
thoroughly done, add:
I pint milk I teaspoon butter or butterine
1/4 teaspoon pepper i slice of onion
I cup celery water ( or flavor with dried celery leaves)
Add I more cup of milk. Strain and serve.
CEREALS 115
GREEN PEA AND OATMEAL SOUP
Drain I can of peas. Add a slice of onion, a sprig of parsley,
a sprig of mint.
I teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt
I /4 teaspoon pepper 2 cups water
Cook slowly 15 minutes. Rub through a coarse sieve. Boil
i scant cup oatmeal in I pint water until well done. Then add
I pint milk. Pour slowly over the peas. You may add I tea-
spoon butterine. Rub through a coarse sieve. Heat in double
boiler.
OATMEAL AND SPINACH SOUP
I cup oatmeal 2 teaspoons sugar
6 1/2 cups water I cup tomato
I onion ; seasoning 3/4 cup cooked spinach
Boil water; add the oatmeal and the other ingredients
and cook together 3/4 hour in a covered saucepan, stirring
frequently. Add milk if possible.
RICE AND ONION SOUP
3 tablespoons rice
i onion, sliced fine
I 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon drippings, lard, or other fat
2 tablespoons parsley
I clove; i bay leaf; scraps of celery
7 cups boiling water
Put the drippings in a pan, and when smoking hot, fry
the rice and onion in it. Pour this into a kettle with the water,
salt, celery, clove, and bay leaf. Boil till the rice is cooked
(about 30 minutes). Add the parsley and serve.
ii6 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
SCALLOPED RICE
Home recipe Individual
3/4 cup rice 2 tablespoons
2 tablespoons fat I teaspoon
2 tablespoons flour I teaspoon
I cup milk 1/4 cup
1/4 cup cheese, grated 1/2 tablespoon
1/4 cup bread crumbs I tablespoon
Boil rice in large kettle of water. Drain and mix with
white sauce, made as follows: Melt the fat and add the flour,
when smooth pour in the cold milk and cook until it boils,
stirring constantly. Butter a baking-dish. Put in the creamed
rice with the layer of cheese in the middle and on the top.
Cover with buttered bread crumbs.
BAKED HOMINY
3/4 cup fine hominy 1/4 cup butter
I teaspoon salt I tablespoon sugar
1 cup boiling water I egg
2 cups milk
Add hominy and salt to boiling water. Let boil 2 minutes,
then cook in double boiler until water is absorbed. Add one
cup of milk and cook I hour. Remove from range, and add
butter, sugar, egg slightly beaten, and the other cup of milk.
Pour into a buttered dish and bake in a slow oven I hour.
Use instead of rice or potatoes at a "meatless" meal.
RICE WITH PARSLEY OR CHIVES
I /2 cup rice 2 tablespoons butter
I tablespoon finely chopped parsley or chives
Cook rice until tender in boiling salted water; add butter
and parsley or chives, mixing gently with fork to avoid
breaking the grain. Serve as a vegetable.
CEREALS 117
TURKISH PILAF
1 /2 cup washed rice I cup stock highly seasoned
3/4 cup stewed tomatoes 3 tablespoons butter
Add tomato to stock; heat to boiling point; add rice, cook
5 minutes over flame, and steam until rice is soft; stir in
butter with a fork and keep uncovered that steam may
escape. Serve as a vegetable or as a border for curried or
fricasseed meat.
SPANISH PILAF
2 cups cooked rice I cup soft bread crumbs
I quart can tomatoes 1/2 sweet green pepper, chopped
I cup cheese, cut fine 4 slices of bacon (on top)
Salt
Cook in a casserole for 11/2 hours.
MACARONI WITH PEPPERS
1 cup cooked macaroni 1/2 cup grated Young
2 tablespoons chopped onion America cheese
2 tablespoons chopped green 2 eggs
pepper I 1/2 cups milk
2 tablespoons chopped red
pepper
3 slices of toasted bread in 1/2 inch cubes
Place a layer of macaroni in the bottom of a baking-dish,
then a layer of vegetable, of cheese, of bread cubes. Repeat
twice. Beat eggs and add milk. Pour into the dish and let
stand ten minutes. Bake until a silver knife comes out clean.
BOILED MACARONI WITH TOMATO SAUCE
Boil macaroni until tender in salted water, drain, and
pour cold water over it. Serve with tomato sauce.
ii8 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Tomato Sauce
1 pint tomato juice I slice carrot
2 tablespoons flour I slice onion
2 tablespoons butter Sprig of parsley
Bit of bay leaf 2 whole cloves
8 peppercorns 1/2 teaspoon salt
Brown vegetables in butter, add tomatoes and seasonings,
let cook slowly 15 minutes, and strain. Wet flour with some
of the liquid, rub smooth, and add to remaining liquid; boil
2 or 3 minutes.
1/4 pound of macaroni needs I pint sauce.
The Italians serve grated cheese with this dish, preferably
Parmesan cheese.
MACARONI LOAF
1/2 pound macaroni I egg, or none
2 cups white sauce 1/2 pound dried beef
Boil macaroni until tender, drain; tear beef into small
pieces; add egg, if used, to sauce. Put in layers in a buttered
mold, cover, and steam two hours. Turn out and serve with
tomato sauce.
GNOCCHI ALLA ROMANA
I pint milk (or I /2 milk and I /2 water)
1/2 cup farina or cornmeal
I egg
Butter and grated cheese
Salt
Let the milk come to a boil; salt it, add the cornmeal
slowly, stirring all the time vigorously. When it is a smooth
mixture, take from the fire, add butterine (i tablespoon),
several tablespoons grated cheese, and the egg slightly
beaten. Mix well and spread out on molding board in a
sheet 3/4 inch thick. When cold, cut in squares or diamonds,
CEREALS 119
putting a layer of these in a buttered baking-dish (shallow),
sprinkle with cheese, and dot with butter. Make other layers
until dish is full, and bake in oven until brown on top.
PITTSBURGH SAMP
I cup samp 2 pimentos
1 quart boiling water I cup white sauce
2 teaspoons salt 1/4 pound mild cheese
I onion, finely chopped
Soak the samp in cold water overnight. Drain, add the
boiling water and salt and boil 10 minutes. Cook in double
boiler 5 or 6 hours or in the fireless cooker overnight. Then
add the onion and cook 5 minutes. Add the pimentos cut in
small pieces, cook 7 minutes, and turn into buttered baking-
dish. Mix the cheese with the white sauce and pour over the
samp. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake until brown.
OATMEAL PUDDING
11/2 cup cold boiled oatmeal I cup sliced apples, or
1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup seedless raisins
Cook 5 hours in fireless cooker and eat with sugar and
milk, or butter, for sauce.
Other cereal puddings:
Bread puddings
Rice puddings
Baked Indian puddings
Tapioca puddings
CHAPTER IX
FLOUR MIXTURES
THE grain most used for breadstuffs of all kinds is
wheat, though corn and rye are in frequent use and
others have been brought to the fore by
war conditions. Wheat is one of the oldest
of the grains and was cultivated very early in China,
India, and Egypt. There are several varieties grown
and various methods used in its cultivation. The two
grades that are primarily used for flour in this country
are the one known as winter wheat which is sowed in
the fall and harvested in the early summer, and the
other known as spring wheat which is planted in the
spring and is harvested in the late summer. The first of
these has a kernel which is softer and more starchy.
It produces a whiter flour with a less proportion of
gluten and is used largely for pastry. The kernel of the
other is harder, being richer in gluten, and is more diffi-
cult to separate from the bran. This gives a darker flour
that is more granular to the touch. It will not compact
when squeezed in the hand as does the pastry flour, and
is gritty between the fingers. This is known as bread
flour, though nowadays some of the mills are using
combinations of different varieties of wheat for their
fine-grade flours.
Every flour mill produces several grades of flour. The
first of these is known as the patent or high-grade flour
into which goes 72 to 76 per cent of the
total weight of the wheat. The second
grade is known as baker's flour and is made up of 1 8 to
FLOUR MIXTURES 121
22 per cent of the wheat. The rest is sold as low-grade
flour. Graham flour was originally a flour made from
the entire kernel with the exception of the outer bran
coats, while "entire" wheat flour is made from the en-
dosperm part of the kernel but does not include the
germ as does graham flour. It does, however, contain
some of the bran and therefore more of the mineral
salts than are found in ordinary white flour.
These various flours are used for the infinite variety
of breads, muffins, cakes, and pastry which we are in-
cluding under the general term of flour mixtures. The
simplest form of any such mixture is the old-fashioned
hoe-cake where the meal, usually corn, was mixed with
water and salt and baked on a board before an open
fire ; or is found in the form of the corn dodger where
the meal is scalded and when cooled is formed into
small cakes, and cooked in a hot oven. Gradually, how-
ever, other ingredients have been added to give a
greater variety and to make them more pleasing to the
taste. We have built up, then, a definite series of these
mixtures as follows :
Proportions for mixtures
1. Batter that which is beaten in a bowl
Liquid Flour
a. Pour batters: i part I to I 1/2 parts
Used for popovers, griddle-
cakes, and waffles
b. Drop batters: i part 2 parts
Used for muffins and cakes
2. Dough that which is moistened and handled on a board
Liquid Flour
a. Soft doughs: i part 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 parts
Used for baking-powder
biscuit, shortcake, etc.
b. Stiff doughs: I part 3 parts or more
Used for bread and pastry
122 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
When different ingredients are added to the original
simple mixture, it must be noted whether they would
Effect of fall under the heading of liquid or dry in-
ingredients gredient. Butter, for instance, or other
shortening, melts when heated and so behaves like a
liquid in the mixture; therefore the shortening should
be counted in with the liquid and as more is used, the
other liquid should be decreased to keep the proportion
correct. Eggs become stiff in the oven, so that a mixture
containing several eggs may be thinner before going
into the oven than one without so many. As sugar is
added, the mixture becomes heavier and more baking-
powder must be used. Flavors may be either liquid or
dry and should be counted in where they belong; coffee,
for instance, must form a part of the total liquid, while
spices are counted as dry ingredients. The ingredients
for a plain cake are just the same as those for a rich
muffin since they both belong in the same group of
flour mixtures, the only difference between them being
the manner in which they are put together.
There are four distinct methods of mixing bread-
stuffs. If a cook is familiar with these and with the gen-
Methods of eral proportions given above, she no longer
mixing needs to be bound to a cook-book but can
make up her own recipes. She must, however, become
familiar with the feel of different kinds of mixtures.
She should also know that if the oven is hot the mix-
ture can be thinner than if it is cool. Also where corn-
meal is used the mixture must be very thin because
cornmeal absorbs so much water in cooking.
I. Muffin Method
Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add eggs slightly
beaten. Add milk. Add shortening melted.
FLOUR MIXTURES 123
2. Cake Method
Cream the fat. Work in half the sugar. Beat the
yolks of the eggs and rest of the sugar. Add this to the
creamed fat. Sift salt and baking-powder with the flour,
add this to the fat mixture, alternating with milk. Cut
and fold in stiffly beaten whites of eggs.
3. Pastry or Baking-Powder Method
Mix and sift dry ingredients several times. Cut in
the fat with two knives. Add moisture lightly. Toss on
a board. Pat to about one half inch thickness and cut
out.
4. Bread Method
Scald milk, or boil water. Pour onto fat, sugar, and
salt. When lukewarm, add yeast dissolved in small
amount of lukewarm water. Add flour, knead, let rise
till double in bulk. Knead again. Put into bread-pans.
Let rise till double in bulk. Bake 45 to 50 minutes in
moderately hot oven.
In order to make the breadstuffs light and porous
in texture, some leavening agent must be used. The
simplest of these and the cheapest is air. Leavening
This is incorporated in the mixture by the a ents
sifting of the flour, by the beating of the egg, and by
the lightness with which the mixture is handled. It acts
as a leavening agent because hot air occupies more
room than cold air. The second is moisture, and this
can be counted on more than is frequently realized.
Since moisture is changed to steam in the oven it has a
great expansive power which lifts the batter and helps
to make it light. We count upon this agent for the
popping of popovers and for the flakiness of pastry.
Our next agents are artificial ones. A gas is intro-
duced into the mixture which will expand in the oven.
124 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
In all these cases the gas used is the same, carbon diox-
Soda and ide, but it is formed in various ways. The
sour milk simplest is by the use of a carbonate or
baking-soda with a natural acid such as is found in
sour milk or molasses. The quantity of soda used must
be carefully measured because if more is used than can
be split up by the acid present, it will be left in the
gingerbread or griddle-cakes as soda, giving a very dis-
agreeable taste to the food. One level teaspoonful of
soda is all that is necessary to be used with two cups of
sour milk. Since this would not make enough gas to
make the mixture very light it is well to add some bak-
ing-powder along with it one fourth as much as we
would use if we were using sweet milk. Since the action
takes place just as soon as the soda comes in contact
with the sour milk, it is well to mix the soda thoroughly
with the other dry ingredients and not add the sour
milk until just as the mixture is ready to be put into
the oven.
When we are not using sour milk or molasses, we
must look elsewhere for an acid to combine with our
Baking- soda in order to give us the required gas.
powders There are several such acids which when
combined with soda form the baking-powders to be
had on the market. The best of these is made of soda
and cream of tartar mixed with a little starch to keep it
from absorbing moisture. Cream of tartar is the salt of
an organic acid found in grapes and when combined
with soda leaves a salt in the muffin. This salt is the
active ingredient of a seidlitz powder and the amount
ordinarily used for a dozen muffins is about half of an
ordinary seidlitz powder. Another group of baking-
powders is made of a combination of a phosphate salt
FLOUR MIXTURES 125
with soda, and the third group is known as the alum
powders. In each case the residue left in the muffin
must be considered and as these are somewhat irritat-
ing to the intestinal tract, it is well always to use the
best baking-powder obtainable and as little of that as
possible. Three level teaspoons of baking-powder are
sufficient for two cups of flour where one egg is used.
Since a light mixture can be obtained by the action
of air and moisture, both of which are far less ex-
pensive than any baking-powder, a premium is put
on the cook who can handle her mixture lightly and
quickly.
If a small amount of baking-powder is put in a tum-
bler and cold water added to it, it will be seen that the
action causing an effervescence of gas takes place im-
mediately. This is true in the flour mixture, the gas is
given off just as soon as the liquid is combined with the
dry ingredients. Since then the gas is desired in the
mixture in the oven, it is well not to add the liquid to
the dry ingredients until the pans are greased and the
oven is ready to receive them.
Another way of forming carbon dioxide in our flour
mixtures is by the action of yeast. The gas formed is
exactly the same as that formed from
... , , . . , , . Yeast
baking-powders but it is formed in an en-
tirely different way. Yeast is a tiny single-celled plant
introduced into the dough where it finds plenty of food
and conditions just right for growth. Like any other
plant it must have warmth, moisture, mineral matter,
protein food, and carbohydrate in order to thrive.
These are all found in a mixture of wheat flour and
water. The yeast cannot utilize the starch of the flour
until that has been changed into the soluble form of
126 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
sugar. This is done by the process of fermentation
which the yeast itself is able to perform by the secre-
tion of ferments during its growth process. It also is
able to change the sugar thus formed to alcohol and
carbon dioxide. It is a greedy little plant and changes
far more starch to carbon dioxide than it needs for
food, so that we can see the bubbles of gas forming in
the dough while it is rising.
There are many more chemical changes involved in
the process of making bread but this is not the place to
go into them thoroughly. Each step in the process of
bread-making is done with some definite aim in mind.
The reason the milk is scalded or the water boiled before
starting our dough is in order to sterilize it to prevent
other micro-organisms from growing under the same
conditions as are being prepared for the yeast. If this
were not done, sour bread might be the result. When
bread is baked, the yeast plant is killed, leaving nothing
in the bread but dead yeast cells which are organic ma-
terial and therefore harmless. The carbon dioxide gas
is expanded and driven out ; so also is the alcohol that
has been formed. The gluten present in the wheat flour
being elastic stretches with the expansion of the gas
until it is hardened by the action of the heat of the
oven. The starch on the inside of the loaf unites with
the water present to form hydrolized starch while
that on the outside becomes dextrinized in the greater
heat thus giving to the loaf its shiny brown appear-
ance. At the same time flavors are developed due to the
formation of a small amount of ethereal salts.
FLOUR MIXTURES 127
MUFFIN, BREAD, AND CAKE RECIPES
RHODE ISLAND CORN CAKE
1 cup Rhode Island cornmeal
2 cups boiling water
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 or 5 teaspoons drippings or lard
Scald the meal with boiling water the meal should
double its bulk. Pat into neat ovals 2x3 about 1/2 inch
thick. If too stiff, the batter can be thinned with milk, or
sour milk and soda. Drop large tablespoonfuls on a hot
griddle, having the fat hot. Serve with syrup.
HOMINY PUFFS
1 cup boiled hominy I tablespoon melted fat
1/2 teaspoon salt 2 eggs, yolks and whites beaten
separately
To the hominy, add the salt, melted fat, beaten yolks, and
stiff whites. Drop onto greased tins and bake.
DROP CORN CAKES
2 cups cornmeal 3 eggs
4 cups boiled hominy Butter the size of an egg
Mix all together in above order, and thin with milk until
you can drop the mixture from a spoon on a pan, then bake
brown.
CORN PONE
3 cups boiling water
3 cups cornmeal
1/4 teaspoon salt
Stir together. Spread evenly in a thin sheet on a buttered
pan and dot with bits of butterine. Bake until brown.
128 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
CRISP CORN BREAD
3 cups milk (or milk and water)
I 1/2 cups cornmeal
I teaspoon salt
Mix well and spread in shallow pan to about 1/4 inch in
depth. Bake in a moderate oven until crisp; it will take
about 3/4 hour.
RICE OR HOMINY CAKE
2 cups cold rice or hominy softened with hot water
3 eggs beaten light
I cup sweet milk
I cup flour
I teaspoon butter
Beat the eggs into the softened rice or hominy. Add the
milk, flour, and butter. Bake in a greased pan, and turn out
while hot. Serve with butter.
LIBERTY MUFFINS
I cup wheat flour, white, entire, or graham
I cup cornmeal, rye meal or flour
1 cup milk or water
4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 tablespoons sugar or Karo corn syrup
2 tablespoons Mazola or melted suet
I teaspoon salt
Mix and sift dry ingredients (flour, meal, baking-powder,
sugar, and'salt). Add the milk, beating quickly and lightly.
Mix in the fat. Bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven.
BRAN MUFFINS
I egg 2 tablespoons shortening
I 1/2 cups bran 31/2 teaspoons baking-powder
I 1/2 cups white flour 1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups sweet milk
FLOUR MIXTURES 129
Mix the salt, baking-powder, flour, and bran together.
Beat egg slightly and add to mixture. Add the milk and
melted shortening, mixing thoroughly and lightly.
Bake in a moderate oven 25 to 30 minutes.
CORN MUFFINS
I cup cornmeal 2 tablespoons sugar
I cup flour i beaten egg
4 teaspoons baking-powder I cup milk and water mixed
1/2 teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons melted short-
ening
Mix in order given, beat well, and bake in greased gem
pans in hot oven 20 minutes.
BARLEY AND RICE FLOUR MUFFINS
7/8 cup rice flour I tablespoon sugar
I 3/8 cups barley flour I cup milk
I teaspoon salt I egg
4 teaspoons baking-powder I tablespoon melted fat
Mix by regular muffin method. Bake in well-greased
muffin molds for 35 minutes in moderate oven.
For rice flour and oatmeal muffins, in place of I 3/8 cups
of barley flour use I I /8 cups of ground rolled oats.
RYE MUFFINS
I 1/4 cups rye meal 1/4 cup molasses
I 1/2 cups flour I 3/4 cups milk, part of which can
5 teaspoons baking- be water
powder I tablespoon melted butter
I teaspoon salt
Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk and molasses grad-
ually, and melted butter. Bake in hot oven in buttered gem
pans 25 minutes.
130 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
SPOON CORN BREAD
3/4 cup cornmeal I cup sweet milk
1/4 cup flour 1/2 cup sour milk
1 tablespoon butter i egg
2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 tablespoon salt
I /4 teaspoon soda ( 2 teaspoons baking-powder only if no
sour milk is used)
Melt butter in baking-dish. Mix other ingredients as for
muffins, keeping out 1/2 cup of the sweet milk. Pour mix-
ture into baking-dish, add 1/2 cup of sweet milk. Bake 40
minutes in moderate oven.
CORNMEAL BISCUITS
I cup yellow or white cornmeal 4 teaspoons baking-powder
I cup wheat flour 2 tablespoons shortening
I teaspoon salt Liquid to make soft dough
Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Cut in the shorten-
ing, add the liquid. Place the dough on a floured board and
roll or pat it until it is 1/2 inch thick. Cut the biscuits and
bake them in a hot oven from 12 to 15 minutes. A floury
surface can be avoided by brushing the biscuits with milk
or water just before baking.
QUICK RAISIN BREAD
Q i/Z cups entire wheat flour I /4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup fine cornmeal I egg, well beaten
2 tablespoons baking-powder 11/4 cups milk
I 1/2 teaspoons salt I cup seeded raisins,
cut in halves
Mix and sift dry ingredients, add egg and milk. Mix well
and then add raisins. Put into greased bread-pan, cover and
let stand 20 minutes. Bake in a moderate oven 50 to 60
minutes.
FLOUR MIXTURES 131
NUT BREAD
2 cups white flour 4 teaspoons baking-pow-
2 cups graham flour der
i cup sugar I egg
i cup nuts, English walnuts, I teaspoon salt
chopped I 1/2 cups milk
Mix the flours, baking-powder, salt, and sugar together.
Stir in the nuts, the egg well beaten, and the milk, beating
lightly and quickly. Pour into well-greased bread-pans. Let
stand 20 minutes. Bake one hour in moderate oven.
PRUNE LOAF
21/2 cups entire wheat 1/4 cup brown sugar dissolved in
flour I cup liquid (prune water and
I 1/2 teaspoons salt milk)
4 teaspoons baking- I tablespoon melted shortening
powder 9 to 12 prunes
Wash and soak prunes several hours; drain, stone, and cut.
Mix and sift flour, salt, and baking-powder. Add liquid and
shortening, and mix thoroughly before adding prunes. Let
stand in a greased pan 20 to 25 minutes in a warm place.
Bake in a moderate oven one hour.
BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES
2 cups scalded milk 1/6 yeast cake
1/2 teaspoon salt I 1/3 cups buckwheat flour
I tablespoon molasses 2/3 cup wheat flour (bread)
Mix and beat well, let it stand overnight; beat slightly
and allow it to rise a short time before baking. 1/3 cup of
cornmeal may be added instead of part of the buckwheat
for variety. For quick work use 2 yeast cakes.
132 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
RAISED WAFFLES
2 cups milk
I /6 yeast cake
2 cups flour, bread or pastry
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately
i tablespoon butter, melted
Mix the milk, yeast, and flour at night. In the morning
add the other ingredients. Use only one egg, make the batter
a trifle thinner, and fry on the griddle and you have Flannel
Cakes.
This recipe may be varied by using 1/2 or 1/3 fine, white
cornmeal or graham flour with the white flour. If intended
for tea, mix in the afternoon, using I to 2 yeast cakes.
RAISED MUFFINS
I cup scalded milk I teaspoon salt
1 cup boiling water 1/4 yeast cake
2 tablespoons butter I egg
1/4 cup sugar 4 cups flour, pastry
Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk and water; when luke-
warm add dissolved yeast cake, egg well beaten, and flour;
beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise overnight. In the morn-
ing, fill buttered muffin rings two thirds full; let rise until
rings are full, and bake 30 minutes in hot oven. For quick
work use 2 yeast cakes.
GRILLED MUFFINS
Put buttered muffin rings on a hot greased griddle. Fill
one half full with raised muffin mixture, and cook slowly
until well risen and browned underneath ; turn muffins and
rings, and brown the other side.
FLOUR MIXTURES 133
CORNMEAL AND WHEAT BREAD
I 1/2 cups milk, water, or a 11/2 teaspoons salt
mixture of the two I tablespoon sugar
1/2 cake compressed Butter (if used) I table-
Or spoon
I 1/4 cups milk, water, or a I cup cornmeal
mixture of the two 2 cups wheat flour
1/4 cup liquid yeast
Pour I 1/4 cupfuls of the water over the cornmeal, salt,
sugar, and fat (if used), and heat the mixture gradually to
the boiling point or nearly to it and cook 20 minutes, prefer-
ably in a double boiler. The water is sufficient only to soften
the meal a little. Allow the meal to cool to about room tem-
perature and add the flour and yeast, mixed with the rest
of the water, or the 1/4 cupful of liquid yeast. Mold thor-
oughly and let stand until it doubles its bulk, make a loaf,
place in a pan of standard size, allow to rise until it nearly
fills the pan, and bake 45 or 50 minutes.
ROLLED OATS BREAD
2 cups rolled oats I tablespoon shortening
3 cups boiling water I /4 yeast cake dissolved in
1/2 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons lukewarm water
1/2 cup molasses 6 to 7 cups white flour
Add the boiling water to the rolled oats, salt, molasses,
and shortening, and let stand until lukewarm. Add the dis-
solved yeast and flour. Mix thoroughly, and let rise until the
dough doubles its bulk. Again stir; put into greased pan,
and let rise until loaf doubles its bulk. Bake about 50 min-
utes, in a moderate oven.
POTATO BREAD
I tablespoon shortening I cup mashed potato
11/2 tablespoons sugar I /4 yeast cake dissolved in
1 1 2 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons lukewarm water
1 1 2 cup scalded milk 2 cups white flour
134 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
To the shortening, sugar, salt, and potato add the milk.
When lukewarm add the dissolved yeast. Gradually knead
in all the flour, though the dough will be very stiff. Let rise
until it doubles its bulk. Again knead and put into greased
pan. Let rise until loaf doubles its bulk. Bake about 50 min-
utes in a moderate oven.
RICE BREAD
I 1/2 cups cold cooked rice 1/2 yeast cake
(either brown or white) 2 tablespoons scalded milk
21/4 cups wheat flour (or water drained from
I teaspoon salt rice)
I tablespoon sugar I tablespoon shortening
Put rice through strainer, add dissolved yeast cake,
melted shortening, scalded milk, and part of flour in which
salt and sugar have been sifted. Add enough flour to knead
on a board, knead thoroughly five minutes. Let rise until
doubled in bulk. Cut down. Shape in loaves, put in bread-
pan to rise again. Bake in a moderate oven about one hour.
RYE BREAD
1 tablespoon shortening 1/4 yeast cake dissolved in
1/2 tablespoon salt 1/2 cup lukewarm water
2 tablespoons molasses I cup rye flour
1/2 cup scalded milk 2 cups (about) entire wheat
flour
To the shortening, salt, and molasses add the milk. When
lukewarm, add the dissolved yeast and flour. Mix thoroughly
and let rise until dough doubles its bulk. Knead, or stir
thoroughly, put into greased pan, and let rise until loaf
doubles its bulk. Bake about 50 minutes in a moderate
oven.
FLOUR MIXTURES 135
SOFT GINGERBREAD
4 tablespoons shortening 2 cups pastry flour
1/2 cup sugar I teaspoon ginger
i beaten egg I teaspoon allspice
1/2 cup N.O. molasses 1/2 teaspoon soda
I /2 cup milk, sour
Make like cake mixture should be almost a pour bat-
ter; bake in a sheet in a moderate oven 20 to 30 minutes.
OLD-FASHIONED SOFT GINGERBREAD
Break I egg in teacup; add I tablespoon melted butter,
3 tablespoons sour milk; fill up cup with molasses and pour
into mixing-bowl. Add I cup flour, i scant teaspoon soda,
I scant teaspoon ginger, and a little salt.
DROP GINGER CAKES
I cup brown sugar 4 cups flour (pastry)
I cup molasses I /2 teaspoon soda
I cup sour milk 4 teaspoons ginger
3/4 cup butter 2 teaspoons cinnamon
i egg 1/2 teaspoon cloves
Put butter, water, molasses, and sugar in a saucepan over
the flame, let it come to a boil, and cool slightly; then mix
in thoroughly other ingredients. The mixture should not
run when dropped an inch or more apart on a greased sheet.
Sour milk would be preferred to water if the molasses were
bought in cans and lacked acid. Bake in a hot oven.
FAIRY GINGERBREAD
Individual recipe Large recipe
1 tablespoon butter 4 tablespoons
2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 cup
I tablespoon milk 1/4 cup
5 tablespoons flour i 1/4 cups
1/4 teaspoon ginger I teaspoon
1/16 teaspoon soda 3/i6 teaspoon
136 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Make like cake. The batter should be stiff enough to
spread. Invert a pie pan, butter it, and spread the mixture
1/8 inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven, watching con-
stantly. When light brown take from the oven and check off
with a knife or roll up. The small recipe will cover two pans.
[NOTE: All cakes are improved by the addition of a little
salt, even though the recipe does not call for it.]
BUTTER CAKE
1/2 cup butter 2 cups flour
1 cup sugar 21/2 teaspoons baking-powder
2 small eggs 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
I /2 cup milk
Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then the eggs
well beaten beating the mixture all the while to keep the
consistency the same. Add the vanilla, then at the same time
one third of the milk and one third of the flour, then another
third of the milk and third of the flour, beating well mean-
while. Sift in the last third of the flour containing the baking-
powder and mix well before adding the last portion of milk
this to be added, or more, if needed. The consistency is
a matter of experience. Bake in shallow cake pans, and put
together with different frostings or filling, from which the
cake takes its name.
MAPLE SUGAR FROSTING
i pound soft maple sugar
1/2 cup boiling water
Whites of 2 eggs
Break sugar in small pieces, put in saucepan with the
boiling water, and stir occasionally until sugar is dissolved.
Boil without stirring until syrup will thread when dropped
from tip of spoon. Pour gradually on beaten whites, beating
mixture constantly, and continue beating until of right con-
sistency to spread.
FLOUR MIXTURES 137
SOUR-CREAM FILLING
1/2 cup chopped English walnuts 1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup chopped raisins 1/4 cup sugar
Mix ingredients and spread between layers.
FIG FILLING
1/2 pound figs finely chopped 1/3 cup boiling water
I /3 cup sugar I tablespoon lemon juice
Mix ingredients in order given, and cook in double boiler
until thick enough to spread.
WALNUT CAKE
Add to the cake batter 3/4 cup walnut meats sliced thin,
bake mixture in a sheet. When cool cover with boiled frost-
ing, crease in squares, and place one half walnut in each
square.
MARSHMALLOW CAKE
1/2 cup butter 3 teaspoons baking-powder
1 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup milk Whites 5 eggs
2 cups flour I teaspoon vanilla
Follow recipe for mixing Butter Cake. Bake in shallow
pans, and put Marshmallow Cream between the layers and
on top.
MARSHMALLOW CREAM OR PASTE
3/4 cup sugar 1/4 pound marshmallows
1/4 cup milk 2 tablespoons hot water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Put sugar and milk in a saucepan, heat slowly to boiling
point without stirring, and boil six minutes. Break marsh-
mallows in pieces and melt in double boiler, add hot water
and cook until mixture is smooth, then add hot syrup gradu-
138 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
ally, stirring constantly. Beat until cool enough to spread,
then add vanilla. This may be used for both rilling and
frosting.
PISTACHIO PASTE
To Marshmallow Paste add a few drops extract of almond,
1/3 cup pistachio nuts blanched and chopped, and leaf green
to color.
CHOCOLATE NOUGAT CAKE
1/4 cup butter 3 teaspoons baking-powder
I cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
I egg and I egg-yolk 2 squares chocolate, melted
1 cup milk I /3 cup powdered sugar
2 cups pastry flour 2/3 cup almonds blanched and
shelled
Cream the butter, add gradually i cup sugar and egg
unbeaten; when well mixed add vanilla, then 2/3 cup milk,
and flour in portions, the last portion of flour sifted with
baking-powder. To melted chocolate add I /3 cup powdered
sugar, place on range, add gradually remaining milk, and
cook until smooth. Cool slightly, and add to cake mixture.
Bake 15 to 20 minutes in round layer-cake pans. Put between
layers and on top of cake boiled frosting sprinkled with
almonds.
DEVIL'S FOOD
7 tablespoons butter 3 cups flour
I 1/2 cups sugar I teaspoon soda
3/4 cup sour milk I teaspoon cream of tartar
2 eggs 2 ounces bitter chocolate
Melt chocolate, pour over it 1/2 cup boiling water; mix
well and let it cool thoroughly before using. Put the batter
together in the ordinary way adding chocolate as part of
moisture. Bake in shallow pans. Put layers together with
boiled frosting or the following
FLOUR MIXTURES 139
FILLING
1/4 cup butter 1/2 cup sour cream 2 cups brown sugar
Boil like candy; stir while cooking; flavor when cold with
vanilla.
CHOCOLATE CAKE, OR DEVIL'S FOOD
(Nellie Dot Ranch?)
2 eggs beaten separately to a stiff froth
2 cups brown sugar, mortared
1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup sour milk
21/2 cups flour
1/2 cup boiling coffee or water, with a teaspoonful of
soda mixed in it and let stand
1/4 pound vanilla chocolate, grated
Bake in moderate oven, in three layers.
FILLING FOR DEVIL'S FOOD
2 cups brown sugar, mortared
1/4 pound grated chocolate
2/3 cup sweet milk
f vanilla
I teaspoon blended extracts < rose
(^ almond
Butter size of an egg
Boil until it drops from a spoon. Remove from the fire
and beat until it begins to thicken. Fill the cooled cake with
LADY BALTIMORE CAKE
8 eggs, whites only 1/2 pound milk
I pound flour 2 teaspoons baking-powder
i pound sugar 2 teaspoons almond extract
1/2 pound butter
140 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Cream the butter. Cream the sugar into the butter thor-
oughly. Sift the baking-powder with the flour, and add to the
butter and sugar alternately with the milk. Beat the whites
stiff and cut and fold them into the mixture. Bake in three
layers.
Icing to be put between :
3 cups sugar 11/2 gills boiling water
Whites of 4 eggs I teaspoon tartaric acid
Boil sugar and water for 10 minutes. Beat the whites lull
stiff, add the acid, then pour the boiling syrup over them
slowly. Add 2 cups of raisins and 2 cups of chopped walnuts.
NUT LOAF CAKE
2 cups bread crumbs 1/2 teaspoon salt
I cup chopped hickory nuts Juice of I /2 lemon
I cup seeded raisins 2 teaspoons baking-powder
Mix well, adding enough hot water to moisten. Cover and
allow to stand for 10 minutes. Add another cup of hot water,
turn into buttered molds, and bake an hour in a moderate
oven. Serve cold sliced.
CHOCOLATE HOOVERS
Whites of 2 eggs I /2 cup cocoa
3/4 cup Karo syrup 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 cups bread crumbs I teaspoon vanilla
Beat the whites until stiff. Drip in the syrup. Mix the dry
ingredients and cut and fold them into the whites. Drop
onto a cooky sheet, and bake 12 to 15 minutes in a medium
oven.
SPONGE DROPS
Whites of 3 eggs I /3 cup flour
1/3 cup powdered sugar 1/8 teaspoon salt
Yolks of 2 eggs 1/4 teaspoon vanilla
FLOUR MIXTURES 141
Beat whites of eggs until stiff and dry. Add sugar gradu-
ally and continue beating. Then add yolks of eggs beaten
until thick and lemon-colored, and flavoring. Cut and fold
in flour mixed and sifted with salt. Drop from tip of spoon
on unbuttered paper. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and
bake about 8 minutes in moderate oven.
This mixture may be shaped and baked as Lady Fingers.
NUT MACAROONS
I cup chopped nut meats 1/2 cup very fine cracker crumbs
I cup sugar Vanilla or almond flavoring
Whites 3 eggs
Beat eggs very light. Add sugar gradually and beat more.
Fold in nuts and vanilla, and lastly the crumbs. If eggs are
large add more crumbs. Drop on unbuttered paper and bake
in moderate oven. Remove from paper with sharp knife as
soon as done.
SWEDISH MACAROONS
12 ounces shredded almonds I pound sugar
4 ounces ground almonds 2 whole eggs
4 ounces cornstarch Grated rind of two oranges
Pass sugar and cornstarch through sieve twice; add the
almonds, orange rind, and lastly the eggs beaten light with-
out separating. With buttered hands shape mixture into
balls the size of a walnut ; bake in slow oven on tins covered
with waxed or oiled paper.
MARGUERITES
Boil i cup sugar and 1/2 cup water until it threads. Re-
move to back of range and drop in 5 marshmallows cut in
pieces. Let stand to dissolve, then gradually pour onto the
whites of 2 eggs beaten until foamy. Add 2 tablespoons of
shredded cocoanut and I /4 teaspoon vanilla. When partially
cool add I cup chopped English walnut meats. Spread on
saltines and brown slightly in hot oven.
142 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
This quantity will spread between 3 and 4 dozen crackers.
Delicious for afternoon teas.
ANGEL CAKE
I cup whites of eggs I teaspoon cream of tartar
I cup granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
I cup flour 1/2 teaspoon salt
Sift flour once, measure, sift again four times. Add salt
to whites, beat until foamy, add sifted cream of tartar and
beat until stiff and dry. Mix sugar and flour, add gradually
to beaten eggs, continuing the beating until thoroughly
mixed. Add flavoring, and turn into an unbuttered Angel
Cake pan. The bottom of the pan may have a paper on it.
Place in a slow oven, and after it has risen increase the heat
slightly to brown. Bake from 3/4 to I 1/4 hours. When
done place pan bottom up until cool.
SPONGE CAKE
6 eggs, yolks 6 eggs, whites
I cup sugar I cup flour
I tablespoon lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 lemon rind, grated
Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar grad-
ually, and continue beating, using Dover egg-beater. Add
lemon juice, rind, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff and
dry. When whites are partially mixed with yolks, remove
beater and carefully cut and fold in flour mixed and sifted
with salt. Bake one hour in a slow oven in an Angel Cake
pan or deep narrow pan.
GOLDEN CAKE
1/4 cup butter i cup flour
1/2 cup sugar I 1/2 teaspoons baking-powder
1/2 cup yolks of eggs I teaspoon orange extract
1/3 cup milk
FLOUR MIXTURES 143
Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then yolks of eggs
beaten until thick. Add extract. Add flour and milk, a third
of each at a time, the baking-powder being sifted with the
last portion of flour. Reserve the last portion of milk until
you are sure you need it ; after baking-powder goes in little
beating should be done. If desired, omit orange extract, add
1/2 cup nut meats cut in small pieces and bake in individual
tins.
BOILED FROSTING
I cup sugar I teaspoon vanilla, or
1/4 cup boiling water 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
i white of egg 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Put sugar, part of cream of tartar, and water in saucepan,
stir until sugar is dissolved, heat gradually to boiling point,
and boil without stirring until syrup will thread when
dropped from tip of spoon or tines of silver fork, which will
be Thread 238. Pour syrup gradually on beaten white of
egg, beating mixture constantly, and continue beating until
of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring and pour
over cake, spreading evenly with back of spoon. If not
beaten long enough frosting will run; if beaten too long it
will not be smooth. Frosting beaten too long may be im-
proved by adding a few drops of lemon juice or boiling
water. This frosting is soft inside and has a glossy surface.
If frosting is to be ornamented with nuts or candied cherries,
place them on frosting as soon as spread.
CARAMEL FROSTING
2 cups light brown sugar 2 teaspoons butter
1/3 cup milk 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Melt butter, add sugar and milk. Stir until sugar is dis-
solved, then boil until when dropped into cold water it
approximates a soft ball. Remove from fire, cool, and beat
144 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
until right consistency to spread; if too thick add a few drops
of milk or water; flavor, pour over cake, and spread evenly
with back of spoon.
UNCOOKED FROSTING
Put i /2 white of egg unbeaten into a bowl with an equal
volume of water, stir into it gradually 4% powdered sugar
until the mixture will spread but not run when put upon a
cool cake. Flavor and use at once. If it must stand cover
with a damp cloth. Fruit juice may be used instead of water.
CHAPTER X
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
IN taking up this new group of food substances, that of
vegetables and fruit, there is need for emphasis on in-
creasing their consumption in the United States. We
use a comparatively large amount of fresh fruit, but
the total amount of fruit and vegetables consumed is
low when measured by their value in the diet. We fall
short particularly in the use of the staples, especially the
potato, cabbage, beets, and turnips, as compared with
the amount used on the continent of Europe. To be
sure, we use a relatively large amount of string beans
and peas, but small amounts of the matured and dried
beans and peas. The potato in this country is regarded
not as a staple of the diet, as it is in Germany, but as
an addition to it like a green vegetable. Though regu-
larly on our tables, it appears only in small quantities
usually once a day, though sometimes twice. Since it
contains 20 per cent of starch it could easily be used
to replace grain products in a mixed diet, counting five
parts of potato the equivalent of one part of grain.
Singularly enough, universal as is its use, it is shipped
from one farming community to another farming com-
munity which adds the cost of transportation and
storage to its price to the consumer. The price, of
course, when taken in relation to the food value
ought to approximate that of grain, pound for pound
one fifth that of grain.
There are whole sections of our population in which
146 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER-
the leaf vegetables are practically unknown. Their
consumption is low all over the United States except
among the foreign-born. Neither are the root vege-
tables used to so great an extent as they should be.
The value of vegetables in the diet does not lie en-
tirely in their actual chemical composition for they all
contain a large amount of water, some-
Composition ,. ...
times as much as 95 per cent, especially
such foods as tomatoes, cabbage, celery, and berries of
different kinds. The amount of protein is small, but
they are a cheap source of this important food nutrient
when vegetables are abundant. It is to be noted that
in respect to the protein content, potatoes are not
so valuable in the diet as bread, since potatoes con-
tain only about 2 per, cent of nitrogenous matter
whereas bread contains 12 per cent. The amount of
starch in the vegetables varies with the type of vege-
table or fruit. As we have already said, the potato con-
tains 20 per cent, the sweet potato has about the same
amount, and an unripe banana about 22 per cent.
Some starch is found in all of the underground vege-
tables but in no other of them is there so much as in the
potato. We also find traces in the vegetables of the
other carbohydrate, sugar, which may increase in
quantity to the 15 per cent found in sugar beets and
to the far larger quantity found in fruits, especially the
dried ones.
The chief value of the vegetables in the diet, how-
ever, is as a source of mineral salts. They are an im-
A source of portant source of iron, and stand next to
minerals m {\^ as a SU p p ly o f calcium. They also
contain potassium and the sodium salts of organic
acids. These form alkaline or basic substances in the
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 147
blood and tissues which help to maintain the normal
neutrality of the blood and are capable of neutralizing
acids produced in protein metabolism. For this reason
alone the greater the quantity of meat, fish, and eggs
used in the diet, the more vegetables and fruit should
be used. To put the same statement in terms of money,
the same amount should be spent for milk, fruit, and
vegetables as is spent for meat, fish, and eggs.
Besides these definite chemical constituents we have
been told recently by Dr. McCullom and others that
the leaves of plants contain minute quanti- A source of
ties of some substances that are absolutely " vitamines "
essential for normal growth and health. It was found
by experimentation that it was impossible to nourish
young animals adequately on seeds alone or the prod-
ucts of seeds. These were lacking in three important
points; their proteins were of poor quality, they were
poor in three of the nine mineral elements required, and
they were lacking in that "vitamine" known as the
"fat-soluble A." These deficiencies were made up by a
combination of leaves and milk with the seeds, or of
meat, leaves, and seeds. A mixture of leaves and seeds
alone gave fairly good results. Hence the leaves of
plants are the second protective food, milk and its con-
stituents being the first. Experiments are being made
to get meals and flour in which dried and pulverized
leaves are added to the product of the seed. For in-
stance, 20 to 30 per cent of dried spinach or celery
makes up the deficiencies of a seed product.
This "fat-soluble A" which is found in the leaves of
plants is present in the germ of the grain to a slight
extent but is usually lost in the milling process, nor is
it found in the vegetable oils extracted from the grain.
148 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Both "vitamines" "A" and "B" are present in all
vegetables so that it is perfectly possible to have a
successful diet entirely of foods of plant origin. It is
not altogether wise, however, as variety of diet tends
towards safety and towards a more perfect nourish-
ment of the body. There is no harm in using milled
products or canned goods if their deficiencies are made
up by combinations with plenty of fresh foods. The
"fat-soluble A" is thought to be unchanged by heat,
but the "water soluble B" is in time hurt by heat and
more rapidly if in alkaline solutions.
There are several ways of grouping vegetables and
fruit. They may be grouped according to their general
Grouping of composition, such as (i) watery, (2)
vegetables starchy, and (3) sweet. In the first group
would come all the green vegetables, the berries, and
other watery fruits such as pears, apples, and cherries.
In the second group would come the potatoes, both
white and sweet, bananas, and some tropical fruits such
as the breadfruit. Under the third heading we would
place the dried fruits, such as dates, figs, and raisins.
Another way of grouping the vegetables alone would be
above ground and below ground. And still a third way
would be according to the part of the plant that is used,
as roots (beets, carrots, and turnips), stems (asparagus
and celery), leaves (spinach, beet greens, lettuce, cab-
bage, etc.), flowers (cauliflower, Brussels sprouts), and
fruit (tomato, cucumber, corn, peas and beans, etc.).
For cooking purposes it is somewhat easier to divide
them into the two groups of strong- juiced and sweet-
Cooking of juiced. Certain vegetables like onions and
vegetables cabbage are always strong- juiced, while
others, such as beets and carrots, may be strong- juiced
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 149
in the winter, and sweet- juiced when they are young
and fresh from the home garden. Strong- juiced vege-
tables should be cooked in a large quantity of water in
order to modify the flavor, and the water may be
changed once or even twice during the course of the
cooking. For sweet-juiced vegetables, however, the
purpose should be to save all the flavor possible so that
cooking in water is wasteful. If water at all is used, as
small a quantity as possible to keep the vegetables from
burning is all that is necessary and this should be made
into a sauce and served with the vegetable. If a larger
quantity of water is required as for corn and asparagus,
it should be boiling when the vegetable is put in, and
drained off just as soon as the vegetable is tender. It
takes far less time than is usually supposed to cook
these vegetables sufficiently. Water in which vegetables
are cooked can be used in making soup or in gravies.
Boiling vegetables is necessarily a wasteful way of
cooking them since the mineral salts for which they
are particularly valuable in the diet are partially lost
in the water. It is better to steam them or bake them.
In fact, a properly baked potato is the only form in
which a potato should be given to a very young child
or an invalid. If a fork is run into the potato when it is
taken from the oven, it allows the steam to escape and
prevents the potato from becoming soggy as it cools.
The aesthetic qualities of fruit are the ones that are
emphasized since the purpose of the fruit by nature is to
insure the scattering of the seed, hence it _
1.- LI j j a j j Uses of fruit
is highly colored and flavored in order to
attract birds and insects. We have then certain defi-
nite uses for fruit in the diet besides the ones we have
already mentioned. They are a valuable source of
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152 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
water as all know well who have enjoyed a juicy Bart-
lett pear on a hot summer day. They also are a means
of introducing salts and organic acids into the diet
which improve the quality of the blood and react
favorably upon the secretions. Certain fruits are used
to prevent scurvy, such as apples, lemons, oranges, and
limes, while others have a definite medicinal effect, as
diuretics and laxatives. They are particularly valuable
as stimulants to the appetite, to improve the digestion,
and to give variety to the diet. Unripe or overripe fruit
has a poisoning effect upon the digestive tract since
it irritates the intestines. Cooking tends to soften the
woody fiber, cooks whatever starch may be present,
and changes the pectin or jelly-forming substance into
its gelatinous form. Much the same effect is produced
in the ripening process; the fruit becomes less acid, the
starch present turns to sugar and the pectin becomes
pectose, a form of carbohydrate. For this reason fruit
for jelly-making should be taken before it is fully ripe.
Fruit juices which do not contain much jellying
property in themselves may be used for making jelly
. by the addition of pure pectin prepared
from orange skin in the following way.
Take the white part of orange skin and grind it in a
meat-chopper. To one cup of this pulp add the juice of
one lemon. Let it stand for one hour. Add two cups of
water, boil five minutes. Let it stand overnight. In the
morning add four cups of water, boil ten minutes,
strain, and bottle. If it is to be kept for some time, it
should be sterilized before bottling. It is possible to
make two and even three extractions from the original
pulp although each succeeding one will be less strong.
When using this pectin, an equal amount of fruit juice
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 153
and the pectin extract should be taken and half as
much sugar again as the total quantity of juice and
pectin.
In order to find out if the fruit juice contains pectin,
one teaspoonful of the juice may be mixed with one
teaspoonful of alcohol. If a heavy mass is formed there
is sufficient pectin present in the juice to form a jelly
when used with an equal quantity of sugar. If it forms
only a thin mass, only two thirds or three quarters as
much sugar as juice can be used. And if it forms no
mass at all, the pectin extract will have to be used.
VEGETABLE RECIPES
TOMATO SOUP
(To be made in quantity and canned)
7 quarts ripe tomatoes
7 stalks celery, tops and all
7 cloves
1 large pepper with seeds
2 bay leaves
3 sprigs parsley
Cook the vegetables and seasonings together one half
hour. Strain, and add the butter and flour well mixed
together, sugar, and salt.
VEGETABLE SOUP
i pound meat 3 potatoes
1/2 cup carrots I cup tomatoes
I onion 3 tablespoons rice
Salt and pepper
Wash the meat, cut in small pieces, and let it soak in 5 cups
cold water for I hour. Cook in the same water, adding more
as necessary. When the meat is partly cooked add the vege-
154 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
tables cut in small pieces and the rice, and cook until tender.
Add the seasoning. Any vegetable may be substituted. If
the vegetables have been cooked do not add until the meat
is tender.
POTATO SOUP
3 tablespoons fat 2 cups water
2 cups milk Pepper
1 teaspoon salt 3 mashed potatoes
2 tablespoons cornstarch
Combine in given order. Rub through sieve before serving.
VEGETABLE CHOWDER
To above soup add 2 cups cooked potato cubes instead
of mashed potatoes, also 1/2 cup cooked carrot cubes, 1/2
cup cooked celery cut in small pieces, and I /2 small chopped
onion. Season to taste.
MASHED POTATOES COMPANY STYLE
Cook in salted water and mash thoroughly. Season with
2 tablespoons butter, 1/3 cup milk, i teaspoon salt, pepper,
and chopped parsley to each quart of potato. Put through
potato-ricer into baking-dish. Reheat and brown slightly in
hot oven. Half may be riced into dish and half put on with
pastry bag and tube. Left-over potatoes may be used.
CHAMBERY POTATOES
Pare and slice thinly raw potatoes. Put in shallow baking-
dish with seasonings, salt, pepper, onion juice, and butter.
Bake in hot oven till all are soft and top layer is slightly
browned and crisped ; about 45 minutes.
KENTUCKY POTATOES
Prepare as in above recipe, adding milk to practically
cover the potatoes. Bake in covered dish one hour and
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 155
without cover for 15 to 20 minutes. One chopped pepper
may be added.
STUFFED BAKED POTATOES
Bake large potatoes till soft. Cut in halves lengthwise and
remove centers, using spoon. Mash centers with fork, season
well, and combine with one tablespoon chopped meat or
flaked fish to each potato or 2 teaspoons grated cheese or
chopped nuts. Refill, packing in roughly. Reheat and brown
in hot oven.
DELMONICO POTATOES
3 tablespoons melted fat 2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 cups milk I 1/2 teaspoons salt
Pepper 2 cups cooked potato cubes
1/2 cup grated cheese Crumbs if desired
Make milk sauce of first ingredients. Arrange in baking-
dish, with crumbs on top if used.
MOTHER'S SCALLOPED POTATOES
5 large potatoes 2 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup hot water Salt and pepper to taste
4 tablespoons butter j
Pare the potatoes and slice thin crosswise. In a baking-
dish put a layer of potatoes, then one of small bits of butter,
the seasonings, and a sprinkle of flour. So continue until
potatoes are used. Let the last layer be of butter and sprinkle
of flour. Moisten well with hot water. Bake in a hot oven
30 to 40 minutes.
VEGETABLE HASH
2 cups potatoes (cooked) 2 onions (chopped fine)
I cup dried beans (cooked) 4 tablespoons fat
I cup carrots (cooked)
Any other cooked vegetables may be added.
156 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Cut the vegetables in small pieces, then mix them. Season
them with salt and pepper and moisten with a little water.
Melt the fat in the frying-pan, add the hash, and spread
evenly. Cover the pan and place where the hash will not
burn. When cooked about twenty minutes fold and turn on
a hot plate. The hash should have a brown crust.
CREAMED EGGS AND POTATO
In small baking-dishes place layer of cooked spinach, next,
layer of hard-cooked eggs, in cream or milk sauce and third,
layer of well-seasoned mashed potato to cover. Brown in
hot oven.
POTATOES GOLDENROD
2 tablespoons cooking oil I tablespoon cornstarch
1 cup milk I teaspoon salt
Pepper I cup potato cubes (cooked)
2 egg-whites (hard-cooked) 2 egg-yolks (hard-cooked)
Prepare milk sauce, add potato and whites, cut in small
pieces. Put into serving-dish and add hard-cooked yolks,
putting through bowl sieve.
BAKED CHEESE AND PIMENTO POTATO
Slice i i /2 quarts potatoes and boil in salted water until
just done. Put in baking-dish and season with onion, chopped
pimentos, pepper, and salt. Cover with cheese sauce, and
bake about 20 minutes.
CORN AND POTATO LOAF
2 cups corn 2 teaspoons salt
4 mashed potatoes I egg
2 tablespoons drippings Onion juice
Bake 30 minutes and serve with milk sauce.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 157
ASPARAGUS LOAF
2 tablespoons butter or other fat
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
Dash pepper
1 cup cream
2 tablespoons chicken chopped fine
I cup cooked asparagus tips
4 eggs
Melt the butter, stir in the flour and seasonings, add the
cream, and let come to the boiling point. When boiling add
the cold chicken, the asparagus tips, and the eggs well
beaten, whites and yolks together. Turn into an earthen
bowl or mold, thickly buttered and lined with asparagus.
Cook standing in a pan of hot water until center is firm. Do
not allow the water around the mold to boil. Let it stand a
few minutes after removing from the oven, and invert over
the serving-dish. Serve with cream sauce. Asparagus tips
and a few well-chopped mushrooms are an improvement
to the flavor of the sauce.
CABBAGE AND RICE
I small head of cabbage 2 tablespoons flour
I 1/2 cups cooked rice 1/2 cup nut butter
1/2 teaspoon salt 11/2 pints milk
Cut cabbage in i-inch pieces, removing all hard stalks.
Put on to boil, adding salt, and cook until soft. Have the
rice ready which has been boiled in salted water. Make a
cream sauce of the butter, flour, and milk. Drain the cab-
bage and the rice, put in buttered baking-dish in alternate
layers with cream sauce until the dish is filled, having the
last layer sauce. Bake 15 or 20 minutes, and serve.
158 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
CAULIFLOWER A LA HOLLANDAISE
Remove leaves, cut off stalk, and soak 30 minutes (head
down) in cold water to cover. Cook (head up) 20 minutes or
until soft in boiling salted water. Drain and serve with
Hollandaise sauce.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
2 teaspoons butter Cayenne
2 teaspoons flour 3/4 cup milk
I teaspoon salt
Cook as white sauce
Pour hot mixture over the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Return
to double boiler and cook like custard. Remove from fire
and add 2 tablespoons butter and 2 teaspoons lemon juice.
CELERY RAMEKINS
I cup milk 6 tablespoons grated celery root
1 cup bread crumbs 1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons fat 2 eggs
Heat milk, add bread crumbs and grated celery root. Let
it come to a boil. Add butter, and most of the salt. Beat
whites and yolks of eggs separately, adding rest of salt to
whites. Add the mixture to the yolks. Cut and fold in the
whites. Put in ramekins and bake 20 to 30 minutes in slow
oven, browning before taking out.
CORN OYSTERS
Grate raw corn from cobs or chop canned corn, adding a
little milk. To one cup pulp add one well-beaten egg, 1/4 cup
flour, and season highly with salt and pepper. Drop by spoon-
fuls and fry in deep fat, or cook on a hot, well-greased griddle.
They should be made about the size of large oysters.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 159
CORN PUDDING FROM FRESH CORN
I dozen ears corn, grated
I cup milk
I teaspoon sugar
i /4 teaspoon salt or more to taste
Bake in buttered pudding-dish I hour.
CREOLE CORN FRITTERS
I dozen ears corn, grated 4 to 6 tablespoons flour
I egg, beaten Salt and pepper to taste
Mix all together. Fry in beef drippings, oil, or bacon fat,
dropping the mixture from the end of a spoon, browning it
and turning it like cakes.
BAKED RIPE CUCUMBER
Cut cucumbers in two lengthwise, discard seeds, etc., par-
boil in hot water until tender. Fill center and heap up with
moist crumbs seasoned with butter, salt, pepper, and onion
juice. Bake 20 to 30 minutes in moderate oven.
SCALLOPED EGGPLANT
I eggplant 2 tablespoons butter
i tablespoon lemon juice Salt and pepper
I tablespoon chopped or Buttered crumbs for top
grated onion
Peel and cut into inch cubes. Cover with boiling water
and cook slowly for 10 or 15 minutes. Drain in colander.
Fry the onion in the butter, add all the other ingredients and
eggplant. In a buttered baking-dish place layers of egg-
plant and white sauce, cover with buttered crumbs and
bake from 20 to 30 minutes.
FRIED EGGPLANT
Pare and cut in slices about 1/3 of an inch thick. Dip in
beaten egg and then in seasoned bread crumbs. Brown on
160 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
both sides in a little hot fat in frying-pan (olive oil preferred)
or fry in deep fat. Drain on paper and serve.
STUFFED EGGPLANT
Put eggplant, whole, into boiling water, boil 20 to 30
minutes, or until tender. Cut it in two and scoop out the
center leaving a wall 1/2 inch thick. Mash or chop the
center, mix with it
1/2 cup bread crumbs 1/2 tablespoon chopped
1/4 to 1/2 cup nuts chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon summer sa-
Pepper vory
I teaspoon onion juice
Stuff the eggplant, heaping it up on top. Bake this in
moderate oven about I hour, basting once or twice with
melted butter.
PEA SOUFFLE'
4 tablespoons flour 3 eggs
4 tablespoons fat I teaspoon salt
I cup skimmed milk 1/4 teaspoon pepper
I cup mashed cooked peas Few drops onion juice
Make a sauce of the flour, fat, and milk. Mash the cooked
peas to a pulp. Beat the whites and yolks of eggs separately.
Mix the pulp, seasonings, sauce, and well-beaten yolks. Fold
in stiffly beaten whites, and bake in a slow oven until firm.
MOLD OF PEAS OR BEANS
I pound green or wax ' I cup milk
beans or peas 3 eggs
1/4 onion Grated cheese
Sprig parsley 2 tablespoons butterine, or oil
I tablespoon flour
String the beans and blanch them by throwing them into
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 161
boiling water. As soon as the water has boiled again, drain
the beans and throw them into cold water. Fry the finely
chopped onion, parsley, and celery in I tablespoon of oil,
add the beans when the onion is golden-colored, letting the
beans absorb the oil. Add just enough water to keep beans
from burning, and let simmer until tender. Make a white
sauce of the milk, flour, and fat. Beat the eggs; let the beans
and sauce cool. Then add the eggs, beans, and a few table-
spoons of grated cheese to the white sauce. Pour into a but-
tered mold, bake like a custard in a pan of water until frm,
and serve hot.
STUFFED AND BAKED GREEN PEPPERS
Cut the stem ends from 6 green peppers. Remove seeds
and pith and parboil in hot water. Stew I cup tomatoes,
1 slice onion, I bay leaf, 3 peppercorns, 1/2 tablespoon
sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt for 15 minutes. Strain and mix with
2 cups boiled rice. Stuff peppers with this mixture, place
upright in pan, and place tops on peppers. Pour around them
I 1/2 cups of tomato sauce and baste with it several times
while baking. Bake 20 to 30 minutes in moderate oven.
MOLD OF SPINACH
I cup milk 2 cups boiled spinach
I tablespoon butterine 3 eggs
I tablespoon flour Brown stock
Grated cheese Salt and pepper
Make a smooth white sauce of the milk, butter, and flour,
letting it cook until it is thick, then add the cooked spinach,
a few tablespoons of grated cheese, the eggs beaten, a few
tablespoons of brown stock (or a bouillon cube dissolved in
hot water), and salt. Mix thoroughly and pour into a but-
tered mold. Steam as a custard until firm, and serve either
as it is or with tomato sauce.
162 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
SQUASH SOUFFLE
2 cups mashed and seasoned squash
1 cup milk
2 eggs
Add the milk to the well-seasoned squash, gradually.
When thoroughly blended, add the yolks of the eggs beaten
until thick. Fold in the whites beaten until stiff and dry.
Turn into a buttered dish and bake in a slow oven until firm.
BAKED TOMATOES
Wipe and remove a thin slice from stem end of 6 smooth
medium-sized tomatoes. Take out seeds and pulp and drain
off most of the liquid. Add equal quantities of cracker or
bread crumbs, season with salt, pepper, and sugar, or a few
drops of onion juice, and refill tomatoes with mixture. Place
in a buttered pan, sprinkle with buttered crumbs and bake
20 minutes in a hot oven.
FRIED TOMATOES WITH CREAM DRESSING
Cut tomatoes, either green or ripe, in thick slices. Melt
fat in frying-pan with I teaspoon salt. When slightly
brown, fry the slices of tomato until tender. Put onto
platter and pour following sauce over them.
Sauce
Heat 1/2 pint cream in double boiler. Pour onto slightly
beaten egg. Pour cream and egg into fat left in frying-pan.
Cook until it thickens, stirring constantly.
SCALLOPED GREEN TOMATOES
Put in a baking-dish a layer of stale but not dried bread
crumbs. Add a little salt, a little white pepper, and a number
of small pieces of butter. Score an onion and sprinkle part
of it over the crumbs. On this put a layer of sliced green
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 163
tomatoes. Add more salt, more pepper, a little more onion,
and 3 or 4 generous tablespoons of granulated sugar. Then
add another layer of bread crumbs, with salt, pepper, butter,
and a little onion. Repeat the alternate layers of tomatoes
and bread crumbs until the dish is heaped high, as it cooks
down a good deal. Put some bread crumbs on top. Put a
pie plate on top to press the fruit down and bake slowly for
at least an hour. When the juice begins to ooze out, take
off the cover and let it brown. A little tarragon is a good
addition.
CHAPTER XI
FATS
FATS are similar to carbohydrates in their general com-
position since they are made up of carbon, hydrogen,
and oxygen, but these latter are not in the proportion
to form water. There is a relatively small amount of
oxygen in fat which causes a large amount of heat to be
evolved in combustion. For this reason, fats are the
chief source of heat and energy in the body. They also
serve as a covering and protection for the body. They
act as lubricants and spare the tissues from disintegra-
tion. They may also serve as a means of storing surplus
energy. A person whose body is well protected by a
good coating of fat is far less liable to be irritated by
external nerve stimuli, such as the slamming of doors or
the shouts of children, than one whose nerve ends are
not so well padded.
All fats have a tendency to slow down the whole
process of digestion while those having a lower melting
point are more completely digested than
Digestion ? . . ... ?. , &
those remaining solid at higher tempera-
tures. Any discomfort due to the use of fat is caused by
improper use or wrong cooking. When too large a quan-
tity is taken at a time, it prevents the action of the
digestive secretions on other foods, particularly those
containing protein material. For this reason rich pastry
and foods fried in fat should never be given to children
nor invalids. If fats are overheated, they are partially
split up, and produce substances which are irritating to
FATS 165
the mucous membrane lining the intestinal tract. It is
the same effect that is produced by the blue smoke
which sometimes comes from the frying-pan when the
fat is allowed to get too hot, and which causes the eyes
and nose to water.
The quantity of fat used in this country is far higher
than the European consumption and much higher than
the individual requires. It has been com- Need to
puted that the waste of fat in America is save fats
excessive. We should use only enough to make the food
palatable and not allow any to go into the garbage pail
nor down into the kitchen drain. Mr. Hoover, in his
speech on November n, 1918, in Washington, before
the workers of the Food Administration, said that
there was a great shortage in the supplies needed by
the whole world, particularly in dairy products, pork
products, and vegetable oils. He said that the world
would be deficient in fats for two or three years at least
and that intense economy in the use of fats in this
country was absolutely necessary. Nine months after
the signing of the armistice, the people of England were
still on their extremely low ration of fats with small
prospect of immediate relief. This was a half-pound of
butter and a pound of oleomargarine per person per
month, whereas we use in this country an average of a
quarter of a pound per person per day not including
waste.
All fats are very similar chemically since they are
combinations of glycerine and fatty acids. Each fat is
made up of two or more of such combina- Nature of
tions formed from fatty acids. These are fats
steps in a long chemical series. Those which contain
certain steps of the series are solid at ordinary temper-
1 66 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
ature, while those that contain others in the series are
oils. Difference in flavor or color is due to impurities,
since a pure fat is pale yellow or colorless when liquid,
and white when solid. Because they vary so little in
their composition, the ones to be used in the household
are those which keep the best under ordinary condi-
tions and are best suited to the purposes for which they
are intended.
Fat occurs in the diet in two distinct ways. It may
either be a component part of the food itself as in milk,
meat, and certain types of fish. Or it may
Use of fats , -j. /j i j
be added to other foods in cooking and
serving as butter, salad oils, and lard. Both of these
groups should be considered by the housekeeper. The
first group is regulated by a choice of the foods them-
selves. Care should be taken to combine a food that is
in itself rich in fat, as cheese or shad, with foods that
do not contain much fat ; or else other fats should not
be served at the same meal. One would not think of
serving tartare sauce with mackerel or shad though this
is almost a necessity with smelts or filet of flounder.
Nor would one desire a rich dessert like a suet pudding
or heavy ice-cream after roast pork, or even a salad
with mayonnaise dressing. Too often are we served
meals in which there is a dash of whipped cream on the
soup, a tartare sauce with the fish, a rich gravy with the
meat, mayonnaise with the salad, and ice-cream or
whipped cream for dessert.
When we come to the second group of fats, those
which are added to the foods in cooking or serving, we
find there is a large region of* choice and plenty of
room for economy. These fats can be considered in
two groups ; those that are served at the table, such as
FATS 167
butter and salad oils, and those that are used in the
kitchen either as a medium for cooking as in frying
or sauteing, or are added to foods as shortening. In
order to save fats at the table, as small a quantity as
possible should be served at a time. Butter
, r . . , Table fats
is too costly to be used for cooking in the
ordinary household, and yet any pieces that are left on
the bread and butter plates at the table cannot be used
in any other way. The question of salad oil depends
upon the tastes of the family. There are those who
feel that they would prefer to have olive oil for their
salads even though it means going without some other
food. Cottonseed oil and corn oil such as are found on the
market to-day both make very satisfactory salad dress-
ings and are much less expensive than the olive oil.
There are innumerable fats which can be used in
cooking, although every housekeeper has her own fa-
vorite. Some of these are of animal origin
and some of vegetable. Aside from the
dairy fats, butter and cream, which are nowadays used
almost exclusively at the table and not for cooking,
lard is perhaps the most popular of the animal fats
Leaf lard is rendered from the fat around the kidneys
of hogs. It has a moderately low melting .
point and therefore is easily handled as a
shortening. It should be white in color and free from
taste or smell. Beef fat or suet is harder than butter or
lard and is somewhat highly flavored. The flavor can
be improved by rendering and the fat itself made softer
by mixing it with oil or lard. Mutton fat is another hard
fat and because of its strong flavor is used more for
soap-making than as a household fat. The fat of poul-
try, either fowl or goose, resembles butter and lard in its
1 68 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
consistency and can be well used as shortening in such
breadstuffs as gingerbread and pie crust where the
color will not be noticeable.
There has been much discussion as to the advisabil-
ity of the use of oleomargarine for a cooking fat. It is a
Oleomar- perfectly wholesome, pure fat when made
garine under the best conditions in the large
packing-houses. It is a mixture of other fats in an at-
tempt to obtain a fat with the consistency of butter at
a lower price. The basis for oleomargarine is a soft beef
fat which is mixed with neutral lard, cottonseed, and
other oils. The mixture is finally churned with milk or
cream, salted, and worked like butter. Under the law,
any fat that contains other substances than pure butter
fat, no matter in how small a quantity, is classed as
oleomargarine and is taxed accordingly. The colored
oleomargarine carries a higher tax than that which is
left colorless, so that it is cheaper to buy the colorless
and if desired, color it at home.
Fats are now being extracted from many oil-bearing
seeds and fruits. They must be purified to get rid of
disagreeable flavors, dirt, and any harm-
Vegetable fats e . , . , , , , . rr-i
ml matter which they may contain. The
seeds are cleaned and subjected to hydraulic pressure. If
hot-pressed, the oil extracted must be refined. Olive oil
has always been the favorite but will undoubtedly re-
main high-priced as the olive orchards in Italy were cut
down to a large extent during the war for fuel for the
munition factories, and it takes many, many years to
grow olive trees. Cottonseed oil has been on the market
for many years and is the basis for a wide variety of
fats and salad oils. There is little choice between this
and corn oils although some prefer one and some the
FATS 169
other. Peanut oil has been used extensively in Europe
both for a table oil and for cooking. It is usually pro-
duced by the cold-press method so that the character-
istic flavor is not noticeable. Cocoanut oil and other
palm oils are used in cooking, especially by bakeries.
With the great shortage of fats, oils have been ex-
tracted from other seeds, the soy bean, sunflower, and
sesame, and from nuts, also from the pits of apricots,
peaches, and cherries.
In recent months there have been a number of color-
less fats on the market under different trade names
known as nut butters or nut margarines. All of these
are probably vegetable oils hardened into a solid by
the addition of hydrogen. By this means an oil may be
made into a product of any desired hardness. These are
not to be confused with the real nut butter which is
prepared by the grinding of the entire nut, as peanut
butter or almond paste.
As we have already noticed, the "vitamine" sub-
stance known as "fat-soluble A" is not present in
oils extracted from vegetables and nuts Place in
whereas it is present in butter and to a toe diet
less degree in animal fats. If then the diet is very much
limited in the use of green vegetables, fruit, and milk,
there might be a dangerous lack of this element essen-
tial for growth if these so-called nut butters were used
exclusively by the family. This is not of so great im-
portance with adults as it is with growing children.
If the children are getting at least a pint and a half
of whole milk a day and a green vegetable at least
once a day, the difference in the fats might safely be
ignored.
There are a few general rules which can be followed
i;o FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
in every household in order to avoid waste of fats, al-
Rules to avoid though of course actual practice must vary
waste of fats according to the conditions in different
homes. In cooking, an attempt should be made to ob-
tain the best quality and flavor with a minimum quan-
tity of fat. No more fat should ever be used than the
recipe calls for. An over-use of fatty foods should be
avoided, especially an over-use of those foods that are
cooked in fat. If fats are used for sauteing, those which
burn less easily are the ones to be chosen. No fat should
be bought for cooking so long as there is fat in the house
that can be utilized for that purpose. This fat can be
obtained from the meat which comes into the house,
either as trimmings or from the drippings in the roast-
ing-pan. By the way, it is well to demand from the
Rendering butcher the trimmings of the piece of meat
of fat f or w hich we have paid and which he care-
fully removes as being unsightly after he has weighed
the piece. The fat from these can be tried out or ren-
dered at home in the following manner. They can be
cut fine with the meat-chopper or a knife and heated
for several hours in the top of the double boiler very
slowly until completely melted. The water underneath
should only be lukewarm as otherwise it hardens the
connective tissue and prevents the fat from melting
out. It should then be strained through thick cloth and
put away for further use. If it has a slight odor or
flavor which it is desirable to remove, it may be heated
with milk, two pounds of fat to half a pint of milk,
strained and cooled. If it is a very hard fat, such as
beef or mutton suet, it can be softened and made a
better consistency for shortening by adding lard, two
parts of beef suet and one part of lard, or mixed
FATS 171
with cottonseed oil, three parts of suet and one part
of oil.
In order to prevent the fats thus prepared from be-
coming rancid, they should be protected from light,
heat, and air. The fats should be kept
it . 1111 Care of fats
tightly covered in a cool dark place.
Home-rendered fats may be flavored in different
ways and kept separately to be used in serving
warmed-over potatoes and different kinds of vegeta-
bles. These savory fats may also be used in the thicken-
ing for gravies.
SAVORY FATS
I. I pound unrendered fat I teaspoon salt
i slice onion 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon broken bay-leaves
Spices are added during the rendering of the fat.
II. i pound unrendered fat I teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons thyme 1/8 teaspoon pepper
I slice onion
Spices are added during the rendering of the fat.
III. i pound unrendered fat 1/2 teaspoon sage
I teaspoon thyme I teaspoon salt
I teaspoon marjoram 1/8 teaspoon pepper
Spices are added during the rendering of the fat.
IV. I pound rendered fat I onion
I sour apple I teaspoon ground thyme, or other
sweet herbs, tied in a cloth
Add flavors to fat and cook until apple is well browned.
Strain though cheesecloth.
i;2 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
SALAD DRESSINGS
BOILED DRESSING
1/2 tablespoon salt Yolks 2 eggs
1 teaspoon mustard I 1/2 tablespoons melted fat
I 1/2 tablespoons sugar 3/4 cup milk
Few grains cayenne 1/4 cup vinegar
1/2 tablespoon flour
Melt the butter. Add the dry ingredients mixed together.
Add the milk and stir till it boils. Pour this over the yolks
of the eggs slightly beaten, and return to the fire until it
thickens. Add the vinegar hot very slowly. Strain and cool.
FRENCH DRESSING
i tablespoon vinegar 1/8 teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon onion juice
Put the vinegar in a cold or iced cup and add the salt,
pepper, and onion juice. Then add gradually stirring
meantime the olive oil.
CALIFORNIA MAYONNAISE
With Corn Oil, Mazola, or any other Oil
4 tablespoons flour i cup water
2 tablespoons oil 21/2 teaspoons salt
41/2 tablespoons vinegar or 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
other acid
Bring to boiling point and boil 5 minutes. Cool, add I egg
slightly beaten, then i cup corn oil gradually, beating well
while oil is being taken up.
Makes one and one half pints.
FATS 173
MAYONNAISE DRESSING
e egg-yolks I teaspoon mustard
I 1/2 to 2 cups olive oil I teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vinegar 1/16 teaspoon paprika
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Beat the yolk of the egg, add the cold oil drop by drop,
beating continually, until thick, then add vinegar and lemon
juice until thin. Again add oil until thick, and thin as before.
Repeat this operation until the oil has been added and
dressing is thick. Mix together the mustard, salt, and pepper,
and stir into the oil and egg. Whipped cream may be added
just before serving.
If the dressing is to be made on a warm day or in a very
warm room, have the ingredients and utensils ice cold.
While making the dressing have the bowl surrounded by
ice water.
CREAM SALAD DRESSING
Individual recipe Large recipe
1/8 teaspoon dry mustard I teaspoon
1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons
Speck cayenne I/i6 teaspoon
i teaspoon sugar 2 to 4 tablespoons
I rounding tablespoon egg 3 whole or 7 yolks (1/2 cup)
1 tablespoon hot vinegar 1/2 cup
2 tablespoons cream, I cup
sweet or sour
3/4 teaspoon butter e tablespoons
Mix the dry ingredients, add the egg, hot vinegar, and
cream in order given. Put mixture in a double boiler and
stir constantly until thick ; any slight curdling may be made
smooth by the use of the Dover egg-beater. To stop further
cooking put the saucepan in cold water. Stir the butter
into the dressing just as it comes from the fire.
174 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
BOILED DRESSING FOR FRUIT SALAD
Juice i lemon 1/4 cup sugar
Juice i orange I egg, well beaten
1/2 teaspoon salt
Boil over water just a few minutes. When cold add an
equal amount of whipped cream.
RUSSIAN SALAD DRESSING
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 teaspoons tarragon vinegar
2 teaspoons horse-radish
I teaspoon powdered sugar
Salt, paprika, and pepper to taste
Add 3 or 4 tablespoons of whipped cream. Mix thoroughly,
then add 3 or 4 tablespoons of chili sauce and mix all well
together once more.
VEGETABLE SALADS
HOT CABBAGE SALAD
1 small head cabbage, shredded
3 or 4 tabascos, cut fine
3 hard-boiled eggs
3 tablespoons capers or washed currants
2 tablespoons sugar
i level teaspoon salt
I head lettuce
Shred the cabbage fine and even. Place in a large bowl
and stir in the tabascos, sugar, and salt, and allow it to stand
in a cool place for 30 minutes. At serving time make a
dressing of the following:
2 rounding tablespoons butter I pint rich, sweet milk
3 level tablespoons flour 1/2 cup vinegar
FATS 175
Melt the butter, fold or braid in the flour and cook until
quite thick, stirring constantly. Add the vinegar slowly.
At serving time pour the hot dressing over the cabbage,
place in a salad bowl on a bed of lettuce. Have the hard-
boiled eggs cut as for egg vases, with scalloped edges. Bed
them in the salad and fill them with the capers or currants.
Garnish the edges with radishes cut into roses.
PEA SALAD
i can small peas I /2 cup English walnuts, cut
i scant pint mayonnaise fine
I /2 cup almonds, cut fine i /4 cup currants
Drain the liquor from the peas, and allow them to stand
in a colander some six hours. Blanch the nuts and cut them
fine. Toss peas and nuts together, fold in the dressing, place
in a chilled salad bowl, in pyramid form. Garnish with thick
dressing and currants.
POTATO SALAD
3 cups cooked potato cubes i cooked carrot, grated
I cooked beet, grated 1/2 uncooked onion, chopped
Serve on lettuce leaves with French dressing.
CARROT AND GREEN PEPPER SALAD
Cut cold cooked carrot into thin strips about 3 inches
long. Place the strips through rings of green pepper made
by cutting the peppers crosswise. Season with salt, pepper,
and a little onion juice. Arrange on beds of fresh, crisp let-
tuce leaves. Serve with mayonnaise or a boiled dressing.
GREEN BEAN AND PICKLED BEET SALAD
Marinate cold cooked string beans in French dressing.
Arrange them on a platter on lettuce in a hollow square,
interlacing them at the corners like logs for a log cabin.
Fill the center of the square with a mixture of pickled beets
176 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and string beans with a very little chopped onion. Serve
with a salad dressing.
Other vegetables may be used for filling the center of the
square, such as green peas, diced tomato, or cucumber.
TOMATO SALAD JELLY
2 tablespoons gelatine I clove
soaked in I teaspoon celery-salt or
1/2 cup cold water I tablespoon minced celery
3 cups tomato juice I teaspoon minced parsley
1/2 teaspoon onion-salt or 2 tablespoons lime or lemon
I slice onion juice
Combine the tomato juice with the seasoning and cook
5 minutes. Add the gelatine, strain, and pour into individual
molds. When very cold, turn out and serve with mayonnaise
on cress or lettuce.
HINDU SALAD
Shred some crisp white lettuce leaves and arrange them
upon the salad plates. Arrange 4 thick slices of tomato upon
the bed of lettuce, and upon 2 slices pile shaved celery. On
the other 2 slices pile finely cut water cress. Garnish with
pieces of pimento shaped with fancy cutters. Pour over all
a plain French dressing before serving.
FRUIT SALADS
CHERRY SALAD
1/2 pound firm large cherries
1 pound hazelnuts or filberts
2 or 3 heads of lettuce
I cup plain lemon mayonnaise
Stone and remove the stems from the cherries. Shell the
nuts and place a kernel in the center of each cherry, thus
preserving their form. Arrange the white heart of the lettuce
FATS 177
in shell form, fill with the cherries, and at serving time pour
over the dressing.
CUCUMBER AND PINEAPPLE SALAD
1/2 cup diced cucumber
1/2 cup canned pineapple, drained and chopped
2/3 cup pineapple syrup
1/4 cup vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
i tablespoon tarragon vinegar
I tablespoon lemon juice
Salt
I 1/4 tablespoons gelatine dissolved in
11/2 cups cold water
I i /4 cups boiling water
Dissolve the soaked gelatine in the boiling water. Mix the
other ingredients, add the gelatine, pour into molds, and
chill. Serve on lettuce with mayonnaise dressing.
GINGER ALE SALAD
3/4 cup diced canned pineapple
3/4 cup chopped grapefruit pulp
1/3 cup blanched, shredded almonds
I /4 cup malaga grapes (if convenient)
I cup ginger ale
tablespoons gelatine
Few grains salt
Few grains red pepper
Lettuce and mayonnaise
Soak the gelatine for 5 minutes in a half-cupful of tepid
water, then dissolve it over steam ; combine the fruit, nuts,
salt, and pepper. Stir in the ginger ale, reserving 1/4 cupful
to mix with the gelatine; then add the latter. Pour into
individual molds and when stiff serve with lettuce and
mayonnaise.
178 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
JAPANESE SALAD
Take equal quantities of finely cut lettuce, quarters of
oranges, tomatoes sliced, and slices of pineapple. The whole
must be thoroughly cold. Season just before serving with
a dressing of cream, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
ORANGE AND GRAPE SALAD
Wash a head of lettuce, dry thoroughly between cheese-
cloth. Put on ice. Arrange lettuce in a bowl to form a nest.
Prepare the oranges by peeling them, and then skinning the
sections so as to leave each section whole. Remove the seeds
and skin from white grapes. Arrange the oranges and grapes
on the lettuce, add nuts, either chopped fine or cut in small
pieces, and pour a French dressing over all.
PEACH AND RIPE OLIVE SALAD
Arrange slices of fresh or canned peaches on beds of let-
tuce in a circle, points toward the center. Put 4 ripe olives
in the center of each circle. Serve with mayonnaise or cream
dressing.
PEAR SALAD
Peel and core pears. Stuff with cream cheese and chopped
nuts. Decorate with strips of pimento, and serve on lettuce
with Russian or mayonnaise dressing.
Seedless raisins, chopped dates, or figs, may be substi-
tuted for the cream cheese and nuts as a stuffing for the
pears.
TRANS-MISSISSIPPI EXPOSITION SALAD
1 cup sifted powdered sugar 18 cherries
Yolks 4 fresh eggs 6 bananas
1/2 teaspoon salt 4 oranges
2 lemons 6 slices pineapple
1 8 strawberries I bunch grapes
Other fruits may be substituted
FATS 179
Peel and slice the fruit very thin. Rub the bottom and
sides of a chilled salad bowl with geranium leaves. Have all
in readiness before beginning the dressing, as it must not
stand.
In a bowl put the yolks of the eggs, and if possible, place
the bowl on ice. Beat the yolks until very light color and
quite thick, stirring constantly. Add the sugar and juice of
lemons. When sugar, yolks, and lemon stand together like
whipped cream, fill the salad bowl with alternating layers
of fruit and dressing, the last layer being dressing.
This may be served with cheese wafers as the first course
of dinner in summer in place of blue-points.
HEARTIER SALADS
CHEESE JELLY SALAD
1/2 cup grated cheese I cup whipped cream
I tablespoon gelatine Salt and pepper to taste
Mix the cheese with whipped cream. Season and add to
the gelatine dissolved in a scant cup of water. Put in molds.
When jelly begins to harden, cover with grated cheese.
Serve on lettuce with a salad dressing.
COTTAGE CHEESE SALAD
2 cups cottage cheese I tablespoon chopped onion
I cup pickled beets, cut up I teaspoon chopped parsley
Serve on lettuce leaves with French or mayonnaise
dressing.
COTTAGE CHEESE SUPPER SALAD
I cup chopped liver About I cup mayonnaise dressing
(cooked) I teaspoon salt
I cup cottage cheese Dash of onion and celery salt,
I small can pimento cayenne
Lettuce Paprika
i8o FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Put liver through the food-chopper, add cottage cheese
and mix well with fork, add seasonings and 2 tablespoons of
dressing to bind. Arrange lettuce on plates, place half of a
pimento on the lettuce, add the salad mixture shaped in
ovals, using 2 teaspoonfuls. Garnish with mayonnaise and
paprika.
OYSTER SALAD
Stew oysters and drain dry. Put on ice until cold, strain,
cut in pieces. Add an equal quantity of celery. Serve with
mayonnaise.
CHAPTER XII
SUGAR
SUGAR is another type of carbohydrate which, like
starch, serves only for the production of heat and en-
ergy in the body and does not build body ,
. . . . . Value as food
tissue, r or this reason it saves protein ma-
terial for growth and when used intelligently and in
combination with other foods, is a valuable food for
growing children. Three to five ounces is sufficient for
the total amount in all forms consumed in any one day.
Overeating of candy and other sweet foods should be
avoided because sugar is completely absorbed in the
system and if eaten in excess of the needs Danger of
of the body is stored in the liver. It is improper use
a single food containing no mineral salts nor "vita-
mines," and when eaten between meals appeases the
appetite without supplying the body with any of the
other materials necessary for health.
It has been proved that sugar can be utilized in the
form of energy in the muscles of the body from twenty
minutes to a half-hour after it is eaten. For this reason
it is extremely valuable to prevent exhaustion under
physical stress and can be used to restore over-fatigued
muscles if other food is not at hand. Its value has long
been proven by mountain climbers and trampers who
carry it with them in the compact form of sweet choc-
olate. The story is told how the Germans utilized this
physiological fact in the rations given their army. It is
said that the men were kept on half rations between
182 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
drives but during the twenty-four hours just previous
to an attack, a large quantity of sugar was allotted
them along with their regular food, in order to provide
the immediate physical energy required for their
strenuous exertions.
No wonder that a child who is allowed to eat ice-
cream sodas, college ices, or candy freely between
meals, has no appetite for a good substantial meal
when the proper time comes, 1 for the body has had a
sufficient amount of energy-supplying foods but is
sadly lacking in the variety of foods which it should
have.
Sugar has not long been the common article of diet
that it is to-day. In the time of our grandparents it
was a luxury only to be had in the form of a very hard
pyramidal cake which stood on the dining-room side-
board and was chipped off to be used as we use candy
to-day. It also could be had in the form of rock crystals
which were frequently bought on a string. To-day it is
one of our great food staples and when its production
and shipment were disturbed during the war, great
commotion on two continents resulted.
Most of the sugar in commercial use comes from
cane or from beets. Before the war France, Belgium,
and Germany together produced 93 per
?p cent of the beet sugar of the world, and
Germany and Austria alone raised one fourth of the
total sugar supply of the world. During and since the
war, beet-sugar production has been greatly stimulated
in the United States, especially in Utah and Idaho; but
the difficulty with its production in this country is the
1 Each college ice with a chocolate sauce contains 400-450 calories
and an ordinary 15 cent cake of sweet chocolate about 400 calories.
SUGAR 183
high cost of labor which handicaps it in competition
with that of the Continent. The largest production of
cane sugar is in Cuba and Java. The Javan crop was in-
accessible during the war because of the lack of ship-
ping facilities, so that it was necessary for us to share
the Cuban crop with the Allies. This was the reason for
the shortage particularly along the Atlantic seaboard.
As it is a crop which could not be immediately in-
creased under the stimulus of high prices, at the re-
quest of the Food Administration the wholesale price
was stabilized by agreement among the dealers and the
crop was apportioned to the different markets, thus do-
ing away with competitive bidding. The next step was
to reduce the amount of sugar consumed by manu-
facturers and the general public. Even with the re-
duction asked of us we were yet allowed more sugar
per person than was the normal consumption by Euro-
pean peoples before the war, so excessive is our use of
sugar.
Chemically there are two groups of sugars; those
that are known as single sugars, and those that are
double or complex. There are three double Kinds of
sugars in common use. Those that are ex- sugars
tracted from cane, from beet, and from the maple-tree
are all the same chemical sugar. Their name is sucrose.
The only difference in these sugars is due to the differ-
ence in refining. The impurities that are left in each
give to it its peculiar flavor. Cane sugar is on the mar-
ket in the forms of coarse brown sugar, light brown
sugar, confectioner's sugar, powdered, granulated, and
loaf sugar. Maple sugar, on the other hand, is not re-
fined, as the maple flavor gives to it its popularity.
Cane sugar was first known in China and its use
1 84 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
spread slowly westward as a great luxury. Early ex-
plorers brought it from India along with
Cane sugar . , . ,.
spices and precious stones. The process
of obtaining the juice from the cane has not greatly
changed in principle during the centuries, although in
late years more complicated machinery has been in-
troduced. The cane is cut and run through a shredding
machine. The mass of pulp is put under pressure to
extract the juice. It is washed with water during this
process, although all the water thus added must even-
tually be evaporated out. The juice is treated with
chemicals and boiled in order to throw out all albumi-
nous matter that it may contain. After this it is filtered
and evaporated. The heavy syrup is then placed in a
centrifugal machine to separate the crystals of cane
sugar from the molasses, which is glucose and which
does not crystallize. Sugar is shipped in this raw state
and is refined at different points along the seacoast of
the United States. In the refining process the sugar
is remelted, filtered, clarified by charcoal, and again
evaporated and allowed to crystallize.
Sugar was first extracted from beets by a German in
1797. It was not a commercial success, however, until
1850, when it was found possible to increase the per-
centage of sugar in beets from 3 to 15 or 1 6 per cent,
thus making the complicated process of extraction
worth while. The beets are cut in very thin slices and
washed with water to extract the juices; these are
then evaporated and decolorized by animal charcoal.
Raw beet sugar is very different from raw cane sugar
but the products after refining cannot be distin-
guished one from the other.
The other two complex sugars are the sugar that is
SUGAR 185
found in milk used for modifying cow's milk for in-
fants, and malt sugar that is formed by the fermenta-
tion of starch.
The simple sugars occur widely in nature, being
found in all fruits either separately or in combination
Simple sugars with each other. The most common of
Glucose these and the one which sometimes gives
its name to the group as a whole is glucose. This is the
sugar that is found in grapes as well as in other fruit
and is frequently seen in small yel ow lumps on the
outside of old raisins. It is made commercially on a
large scale by the action of acids on starch. It is not so
sweet as cane sugar and does not crystallize, so that it
is used in the manufacture of syrups and some candy
as a much cheaper but harmless substitute for cane
sugar. Corn syrups which were put on the market as
substitutes for sugar are largely glucose; hence in order
to get the same quality of sweetness in the finished
product, it is necessary to use half as much again of
the syrup as of the sugar required.
Another simple sugar is known as fruit sugar. It is
found in most fruits, but is not of commercial value. It
is two and a half times sweeter than cane
or beet sugar and is what gives to fruit its Fruit sugar
fuel value, even though the fruit may be very acid to
the taste. A combination of glucose and fruit sugar
occurring in an intimate mixture is known as invert
sugar because it is made from cane sugar by inversion;
that is, by boiling with acids or by fermentation.
Honey is practically pure natural invert sugar. These
three sugars, glucose, fruit sugar, and invert sugar, are
found in fruits either separately or together.
Sugar is used in cookery to give desirable flavor to
186 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
various substances. The changes which it undergoes
Action of sugar when being cooked by itself are physical
on boiling rather than chemical. When water boils, it
can be no hotter when boiling vigorously than when
boiling gently, for water is changed into steam at 212 F.
and so pure water can never be any hotter than this
temperature. As soon, however, as we put another sub-
stance in solution in the water we raise the boiling
point. Salted water has a higher boiling point than
plain water and so also has a solution of sugar and
water. As the water is gradually boiled out from syrup,
the solution becomes more and more dense and the
boiling point is continually being raised. This is the
reason why all recipes for making jams say to boil
vigorously. The syrup will do different things at differ-
ent densities, so that in candy making or in boiling
syrup for frosting, a syrup thermometer may be used
and the syrup boiled up to the desired temperature.
There are a few fixed points as follows:
1. 238 F.: Soft ball test; makes a soft ball in cold water; used for
frosting, fudge, and fondant.
2. 248 F. : Hard ball test; forms a firm ball under cold water.
3. 290 F.: Small crack test; is hard and brittle in cold water; for
pulled candies.
4. 310 F. : Hard crack test; begins to discolor; for glaced nuts and
fruit; too hard for pulled candies.
5. 345-35O F. : Caramel ; turns brown ; for peanut brittle.
If the boiling were continued further, the water of the
sugar itself would be driven out completely, leaving
nothing but the black mass of charcoal or carbon.
Another way for making caramel to be used for flavor,
or for sauces, is to put the sugar in a frying-
pan dry, and heat it on top of the stove. Af-
ter it is melted and browned carefully without burning,
SUGAR 187
an equal amount of boiling water is added. This dissolves
the caramel, which can then be kept in liquid form.
Barley sugar, which is used for the very hard Christ-
mas candies, is the stage reached before the sugar be-
gins to caramelize when it has boiled too long to be
used for glac6d fruits.
The logical place to use sugar in the diet is at the
close of a meal in which a variety of food substances
has been used. This may be in the form of HOW to use
made desserts of all kinds, cake, pastry, or su s ar
fruit, either raw or cooked. The dessert should be as
carefully planned as the rest of the meal. If the earlier
courses have been heavy, fruit is preferable to a rich
pudding. If, however, left-overs have been used and the
meal has been somewhat light, it is suitable to count
on a hearty pudding for part of the total value of the
meal. It should be remembered that all desserts which
contain fat in any form either as cream, whipped or
frozen, or as pastries, suet puddings, or rich cake,
should only be served when very little fat has been
used during the meal. To serve a rich cake with a lus-
cious chocolate frosting with a rich ice-cream is sure
to bring the total amount of fuel of the meal far above
the actual requirements of the needs of the family.
Peculiar as it may seem, a plain, slightly salted, crisp
cracker goes better with ice-cream than anything else.
CANDY AND DESSERT RECIPES
PANOCHA
I cup (packed) medium 1/3 cup nut meats
brown sugar 1/4 pound pecans, in shell
1/4 cup cream 1/3 pound hickory, in shell
188 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Cook sugar and cream to soft ball test. Cool until you can
bear your hand on bottom of pan. Stir until it begins to
thicken, add nuts, and when it is too thick to pour easily
spread quickly on a buttered pan, cut in squares and cool.
FUDGE
2 cups sugar 1/4 cup Golden Drip syrup or
1 cup water I /8 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 ounces chocolate 2 teaspoons butter
Cook to soft ball test. Cool, add I teaspoon vanilla, stir
until too thick to pour, spread on buttered pan and cut in
squares.
OLYMPIAN CREAM
3 cups sugar 1/4 to 1/3 cup Golden Drip syrup or
I cup cream 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar and
caramel to color and flavor
Cook to soft ball test (firm and waxy), cool, stir, when it
thickens add 3/4 cup nuts (1/2 pound English walnuts).
Stir until it will not pour, spread upon buttered pan and
cut in squares.
CREAM CANDY
I cup sugar
1/12 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/3 cup water
Cook without stirring to the crack test. Pour on a buttered
pan, when cool enough to handle, pull lightly and quickly
till white, cut with scissors or break into convenient pieces
and wrap in paraffin paper. Color and flavor while pulling.
MOLASSES CANDY
i /3 cup sugar
2/3 cup New Orleans molasses
Cook to crack test, stirring occasionally to keep it from
SUGAR 189
burning. Add 1/12 teaspoon baking soda, pour upon a but-
tered pan and when cool enough to handle, pull lightly and
quickly until light colored and firm. Cut into pieces of con-
venient size. Flavor while pulling.
DATE KISSES
Whites 2 eggs I cup pecans chopped
I cup powdered sugar Vanilla
I cup dates chopped fine
Beat the eggs till stiff. Mix in the other ingredients. Drop
onto a greased sheet and bake in a quick oven,
FIG TOAST
Wash carefully and cook in boiling water 1/2 pound figs
until tender, add 1/4 cup sugar and the rind and juice of
half a lemon. Cook until the syrup is reduced when re-
heating in chafing-dish. Butter toast while hot, heap the
figs upon it, and cover with whipped cream made from 2/3
cup cream and 3 tablespoons powdered sugar. Serve at
once.
FRIED BANANAS
Remove the skin from 6 bananas and cut them in halves.
Melt I tablespoon butter in blazer and cook bananas cov-
ered until tender. Mix I tablespoon butter, 1/3 cup sugar,
and 2 tablespoons lemon juice; when bananas are nearly
done turn mixture in and baste with it until ready to serve.
BAKED BANANAS (i)
Remove skins from 6 bananas and cut in halves length-
wise. Put in a shallow granite pan or on an old platter.
Mix 2 tablespoons melted butter, 1/3 cup sugar, and 2
tablespoons lemon juice. Baste bananas with one half the
mixture. Bake 20 minutes in slow oven, basting during bak-
ing with remaining mixture.
190 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
BAKED BANANAS (2)
Pull one narrow strip of skin down the entire length of
each one of six bananas, and lay it back in place again. Place
the bananas in a shallow baking-dish and bake in a mod-
erate oven 20 minutes, or until the bananas are entirely soft.
Serve in the skins to preserve all the juice. This is the best
way to give bananas to children.
BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING WITH WHIPPED
CREAM
Butter a round pudding-dish. Have slices of stale bread,
butter them generously. Cut them in squares 2 inches across
and arrange a layer in the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle with
raisins and currants that have been well washed in several
waters. Add another layer of the bread and butter, and re-
peat until the dish is full. Then pour over it a custard made
from 2 well beaten eggs, I pint of milk, and sugar to taste,
seasoned with ground nutmeg. Dot the top of the pud-
ding over with small pieces of butter, stand in a basin of
water in a hot oven and bake until the top is brown.
Serve hot with whipped cream which may be slightly
flavored with vanilla, or if preferred with plain cream, un-
sweetened and unflavored, or simply with hard sauce or
soft butter.
BREAD PUDDINGS
Plain
Lemon
Chocolate
Brown
Stale crumbs
I C.
1C.
I C.
Stale crust
crumbs
1 C.
Milk
2 C.
2 C.
2 C.
2 C.
Egg
I or 2 yolks
I or 2 yolks
I or 2 yolks
Sugar
3tb.
3 or 4 tb.
8tb.
Molasses
1/2 C.
Salt
1/2 t.
1/2 t.
1/2 t.
i/at.
Fruit
1/2 C.
Lemon
I rind
*
Spices
1/4 t.
Chocolate
I OZ.
SUGAR 191
Soak crumbs and milk from I to 2 hours or until crumbs
are soft if milk is hot it will take shorter time. Beat egg
with sugar and salt, and to it add the soaked crumbs. Put
in a buttered dish, into a moderate oven, and bake 30 to 40
minutes, or until a knife comes clean from the middle of the
pudding.
Serve plain bread pudding with chocolate sauce or frost-
ing fruit sauce.
Serve lemon bread pudding with frosting lemon sauce.
Serve chocolate bread pudding with vanilla sauce.
Serve brown bread pudding with caramel sauce.
BROWN BETTY
1 cup bread crumbs 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 cups chopped tart apples 1/16 teaspoon cloves
1/2 cup brown sugar I to 2 tablespoons butter
Butter a deep dish, put in layers of crumbs, apple, sugar,
butter, and spice ; repeat ; put crumbs on top. Cover dish and
cook in moderate oven 3/4 hour; uncover to brown. Serve
with sugar and cream, or milk sweetened and flavored.
BROWN SUSAN
Line buttered mold with pieces of bread slightly buttered.
Fill cavity with sliced apple, butter, sugar, and lemon rind;
cover with buttered bread. Bake slowly, and heat at last to
brown. Serve with lemon sauce.
i*
INDIAN PUDDING
5 cups scalded milk I teaspoon salt
1/3 cup Indian meal I teaspoon ginger
1/2 cup molasses
Pour milk slowly on the meal, cook in double boiler 20
minutes. Add molasses, salt, and ginger, pour into buttered
pudding-dish, and bake in slow oven from 3 to 6 hours.
192 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
INDIAN TAPIOCA PUDDING
1/3 cup pearl tapioca 1/2 cup molasses
2 cups boiling water I tablespoon butter
I 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup cornmeal 3 cups hot milk
Soak tapioca in cold water for one hour and drain. Add
salt to boiling water, sift in cornmeal and boil IO minutes,
stirring often. Add tapioca and other ingredients, pour into
a greased earthen dish and bake slowly for 2 hours.
RICE AND APRICOT PUDDING
1 cup rice
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 pound evaporated apricots
Cook rice in boiling salted water until tender, drain, and
add butter. Soak apricots overnight, cook until tender in
plenty of water, add 1/2 cup sugar. Reserve one cup juice
for the sauce. In a buttered dish put a layer of rice, then one
of apricots, and repeat until dish is full; pour remaining
juice over it and bake half an hour.
APRICOT SAUCE
I cup juice
1/2 cup sugar
I tablespoon flour
Mix sugar and flour, add hot juice, cook until clear and
slightly thick.
RICE FLUMMERY
i cup broken rice 1/4 teaspoon salt
4 cups milk 1/4 pound figs, prunes, or raisins
Wash rice, cook, stirring constantly until tender. If whole
rice is used cook until tender in boiling salted water, or in
SUGAR 193
double boiler; add from 1/2 to 3/4 as much milk and cook,
stirring until the rice is broken up and mixture thick enough
to mold. Mix with fruit and pack in cups. Cool and serve
with fruit juice, brown sugar sauce, or cream. Figs should
be steamed and cut up; prunes cooked, stoned and cut up;
and raisins plumped and seeded.
BOILED RICE PUDDING
1/4 pound rice
1/2 pound raisins
1/2 teaspoon salt
Wash rice, seed raisins, mix, and tie in floured cheese-
cloth, allowing room to swell. Boil or steam 2 hours and
serve with milk or cream, sweetened and flavored, or raisin
sauce.
POOR MAN'S PUDDING
4 cups milk 1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup rice Nutmeg or raisins
1/2 teaspoon salt
Wash rice, mix ingredients, and pour into buttered pud-
ding-dish. Bake from 2 to 3 hours in very slow oven, stirring
three times during first hour of baking to prevent rice from
settling, and occasionally afterward. Serve hot or cold.
CHOCOLATE CORNSTARCH PUDDING
Home recipe Individual recipe
2 cups milk 1/2 cup
3 tablespoons cornstarch I teaspoon
1/4 cup sugar 3/4 tablespoon
i square chocolate grated 3/4 tablespoon or 1/8 square
1/4 teaspoon salt Pinch
1/2 teaspoon vanilla 1/8 teaspoon
Melt chocolate in double boiler over hot water, add sugar
194 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and thin by adding milk, a few drops at a time. When smooth
add scalded milk. Add cornstarch blended to a paste with
a little cold milk, reserved for the purpose. Cook 20 minutes.
Add salt and vanilla, and mold. Pour on a little cold water
to prevent skin forming on top of mold.
COTTAGE PUDDING
Individual recipe Large recipe
I tablespoon butter 3 or 4 tablespoons
3 tablespoons sugar 3/4 cup
1 tablespoon beaten egg I egg
3 tablespoons milk 3/4 cup
1/2 cup flour 2 cups
3/4 teaspoon baking-powder 3 teaspoons
Make like cake, using more milk if necessary for a batter
between a drop and a pour. Bake in a sheet, serve hot with
lemon sauce.
LEMON SAUCE
Individual recipe Large recipe
1/3 cup boiling water 2 cups
1/4 inch square yellow lemon rind 2 inch square
2 tablespoons sugar I cup
i teaspoon flour 2 tablespoons
I teaspoon butter 2 tablespoons
i teaspoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons
Cook first four ingredients until clear and somewhat
thick, add butter and lemon juice just before taking from
the stove, remove rind, and serve.
APPLE SAUCE CAKE
Cream together I cup of sugar, and i /2 cup of shortening,
add i saltspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of cloves, I teaspoon
of cinnamon, little nutmeg, and i cup of raisins.
SUGAR 195
Dissolve i teaspoon soda in a bit of warm water and then
stir it into I cup of sour apple sauce letting it foam over the
ingredients in the bowl. Beat all thoroughly and add I 3/4
cups flour. Bake in a loaf tin 45 minutes.
APPLE COMPOTE
Individual recipe Large recipe
I apple 8 or 10
1/4 cup water I cup
1/8 cup sugar I cup
1/2 inch stick cinnamon 2-inch stick
Make syrup with sugar, water, and cinnamon ; boil slowly
IO minutes, skimming well. Core and pare apples, cook till
nearly done in syrup. Turn apples while cooking. Drain and
bake apples a few minutes in the oven. Boil the syrup until
almost like a jelly. Arrange apples on dish for serving. Fill
core cavities with jelly or marmalade. Pour the syrup over
them. Put whipped cream around the base.
APPLE DUMPLING
Individual recipe Large recipe
1/3 cup flour 2 cups
1/2 teaspoon baking-powder 31/2 teaspoons
Speck salt 1/2 teaspoon
1/2 tablespoon butter 3 tablespoons
Milk 2/3 cup
I apple 6
Mix dough as for biscuits, pat or roll large enough to
cover apple. Pare and core apple, fill center with raisins,
jelly, or sugar with lemon juice or spices, place in middle of
dough and press edges together. Put on floured tin and bake
in moderate oven until apple is tender. Serve hot with
molasses sauce.
196 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
MOLASSES SAUCE
Individual recipe Large recipe
2 tablespoons Golden Drip syrup I cup
I teaspoon vinegar or 2 tablespoons
i teaspoon lemon juice 1/2 lemon
Salt 1/8 teaspoon
1/4 teaspoon butter I tablespoon
1/16 teaspoon mixed spices 1/4 teaspoon
Mix and cook until somewhat thick. Instead of mixed
spices you may use cinnamon or vanilla and I ounce of
chocolate.
Mixed Spices
1/2 teaspoon cloves I teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon allspice 3 teaspoons cinnamon
i teaspoon mace
DUTCH APPLE CAKE
2 cups flour I egg, or none
1/2 teaspoon salt I cup milk
3 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons melted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
Make a drop batter, spread about 3/4 inch on a buttered
tin. Stick full of thin wedges of apple, sprinkle with sugar
and cinnamon, and bake until brown. Serve with molasses
sauce.
APPLE PUDDING
2 large apples grated 3/4 cup milk
2 eggs well beaten 2 cups corn flakes
1/2 cup maple syrup
Mix together and bake until set like a custard.
SUGAR 197
APPLE TAPIOCA OR SAGO
3/4 cup pearl or minute tapioca
Cold water to cover, soak one hour
Drain, add 4 cups water
1/2 teaspoon salt
Cook in double boiler until transparent. Core and pare
7 sour apples, arrange in buttered pudding-dish, fill cavities
with sugar and few drops lemon juice. Pour tapioca over
apples and bake in moderate oven until apples are soft.
Serve with sugar and cream. Other fruits may be used
peaches, pears, stewed prunes, bananas or cooked figs, or
quinces.
APPLE SAUCE
6 apples 1/4 cup sugar, or
1/3 cup water 1/4 cup Golden Drip syrup
Cook apples and water together over a slow fire until
tender. Add sugar and cook until it is dissolved. If molasses
or brown sugar is used put with apples and water and cook
slowly, covered, in the oven till red in color.
APPLE PORCUPINE
I cup water ) .,
( Boil 5 minutes
1 cup sugar )
6 apples
4 eggs, whites
1/2 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons blanched almonds
3 tablespoons currant jelly
Pare and core the apples and cook them until tender in
the syrup. Take them out on a platter, and fill the centers
with currant jelly. Make a meringue of the eggs and sugar,
and cover the apples with it, then stick in the almonds.
Place in the oven with the door open for 5 minutes.
198 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
CHERRY PUFFS
2 cups flour 1/4 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking-powder I cup milk
I egg, or none
Make a drop batter, put a spoonful in each of 10 or 12
buttered cups, then a few cherries; cover these with another
spoonful of batter and steam for 20 or 30 minutes. Serve
with sauce made from the fruit juice.
i cup juice I tablespoon sugar, if needed
1/2 tablespoon butter I tablespoon flour
Either fresh or canned fruit may be used, but reserve the
juice for the sauce. Other small fruits may take the place
of cherries.
DATE PUDDING
2 cups milk 3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup corn or maple syrup 1/2 teaspoon salt
12 seeded dates cut up small I teaspoon vanilla
Mix the cornstarch with 1/4 cup of milk. Heat the re-
maining milk in a double boiler. Add the cornstarch, syrup,
dates, and salt, and stir until thick. Cover and cook 20 min-
utes. Add the vanilla and put in a dish to cool.
ORANGE TAPIOCA
I cup ball tapioca I cup sugar
6 oranges Whipped cream
Soak the tapioca 2 hours in enough cold water to cover.
Wash and dry the oranges and slice them into 2 or 4 parts.
Put them over to boil in clear water and boil until you can
pierce the skin with a toothpick. Remove the oranges and
arrange on a pretty platter. Put the tapioca over to cook in
the water the oranges were cooked in, add the sugar, and
SUGAR 199
boil until clear, then pour over the cooked oranges. Serve
chilled with whipped cream.
PRUNE PUDDING
1 pound prunes i lemon, juice and rind
2 cloves 1/3 box gelatine
Soak prunes overnight, cook until tender with cloves and
lemon. Soak gelatine in prune juice, and dissolve with hot
juice, using the proportion of 2 quarts juice to one box of
gelatine. Stone fruit and put with juice into mold, chill, and
serve with sweetened whipped cream.
PRUNE WHIP (i)
Whites of 4 eggs
24 large prunes, cooked and mashed through a strainer
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
Lemon juice
Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff with a little salt,
adding the sugar gradually while beating. Cut and fold in
the prune pulp. Pile in a baking-dish. Stand the dish in a
pan of hot water in a moderate oven until set.
PRUNE WHIP (2)
2 cups silver prunes
I cup best evaporated apricots
I quart fresh water
1/2 cup sugar
1 pint rich milk
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons sherry
(Fruit mixture to be used instead of wine:
1/2 orange, 1/4 lemon, 1/4 pineapple)
I pint box small fruit
Yolks 2 eggs
200 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Wash the prunes and apricots well, drain, and place in a
stew-pan, cover with water, boil until the stones fall from
the prunes, remove from the fire, take out the stones, cut
the fruit in small cubes, return to the liquor which should
be quite thick. Add the sugar and cook to a thick paste,
take from the fire and chill. Make a custard in the double
boiler, allowing the milk to scald, add the well-beaten eggs,
sugar, and wine ; when quite thick take from the stove and
chill. About serving time whip the whites of the eggs until
they stand alone. Fill a pretty glass berry-dish first with a
layer of dark prune sauce, then of deep yellow custard.
Drop the whites over the top, and garnish with the bright
berries. Whipped cream may be substituted for the eggs.
STEAMED SUET AND FRUIT PUDDING
21/2 cups flour 2/3 cup butter
i teaspoon soda I cup chopped raisins or
1/2 teaspoon salt currants
1/2 saltspoon cinnamon I cup water or milk
1/2 saltspoon nutmeg I cup molasses
I cup chopped suet
Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add molasses and milk to
suet; combine mixtures. Stone, cut, and flour raisins, then
add to mixture. Turn into buttered mold, cover, and steam
3 hours. Serve with foamy sauce. If water and butter be
used, 3 cups flour will be required, as these thicken less than
milk and suet. This pudding may be steamed in small stone
cups.
FOAMY SAUCE
1/2 cup butter 2 tablespoons wine, or
I cup powdered sugar I teaspoon vanilla
I egg
SUGAR 201
FIG PUDDING
Individual recipe Large recipe
2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 cup
1 ounce suet 1/4 pound
2 ounces figs 1/2 pound
2/3 cup crumbs 21/3 cups
2 tablespoons milk 1/2 cup
1/2 egg 2
1/6 teaspoon salt 3/4 teaspoon
I 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice 1/2
1/8 lemon rind 1/2
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 2 teaspoons
Chop figs. Chop suet with a little flour to keep it from
sticking together. Mix the two. Soak bread crumbs in milk,
add eggs well beaten, sugar, and salt. Combine mixtures,
turn into buttered mold, steam 3 hours, or in individual
molds 40 minutes. Serve with hard sauce.
RAISIN PUDDING
i cup wet bread crumbs 1/4 cup chopped suet, or none
1/4 cup molasses 1/8 teaspoon mixed spices
1/4 cup raisins
Soak bread in cold water 30 minutes, squeeze water out,
measure, and mix lightly with other ingredients. Put into a
buttered can and steam or cook surrounded by boiling water
for 2 hours. Serve with hard or golden sauce.
PLUM PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS
I cup bread crumbs 1/2 cup molasses
1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup sweet milk
1/2 cup suet (chopped fine) 1/8 teaspoon soda
1/2 cup raisins 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cloves 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Butter earthen dish. Mix ingredients and cook 5 hours in
fireless cooker.
202 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
CHOCOLATE AND ALMOND PUDDING
I tablespoon butter 1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup flour 5 eggs
1/2 cup grated chocolate 3/4 cup sugar
(3 ounces) i cup chopped almonds
Cook butter, flour, chocolate, and milk over the fire, stir-
ring constantly. Set it to cool. Beat yolks with sugar until
creamy; add it to cold mixture, a spoonful at a time. Mix
thoroughly. Fold in beaten whites; turn into a buttured
mold, and steam 2 to 3 hours. Serve with hard sauce.
PUDDING SAUCES
Golden Sauce
1/2 cup butter 1/2 cup fruit juice
1 cup light brown sugar 1/8 teaspoon mace
2 yolks eggs
Cream butter and sugar, put over hot water, stir until
liquid, then add beaten yolks, mace, and fruit juice, and stir
until it thickens. Serve at once.
Hard Sauce
1/3 cup butter I teaspoon lemon juice
2/3 to I cup powdered sugar 2/3 teaspoon vanilla
Cream butter, add sugar gradually and flavoring. The
beaten yolk or white of an egg may be added. Beat the mix-
ture well, form on serving-dish, and put in cool place until
used.
Frosting Sauce
i white of egg 2/3 cup fruit
2/3 cup powdered sugar Lemon juice
Put unbeaten white in bowl, add fruit and sugar gradu-
ally, using the Dover egg-beater, and beat until smooth and
thick. Lemon juice is added to bring out the flavor of fruit,
SUGAR 203
and less sugar is needed if fruit is sweetened. The juice of
half a lemon may be used without fruit.
Vanilla Sauce
I cup water I tablespoon butter
1/2 cup sugar I teaspoon vanilla
I tablespoon flour
Mix sugar and flour, pour over it boiling water, cook until
clear and slightly thick; add butter several minutes before
taking up, and vanilla just before serving.
Chocolate Sauce
To vanilla sauce add I ounce bitter chocolate instead of
the butter, and half as much vanilla.
Brown Sugar Sauce
I cup water I tablespoon butter
3/4 cup brown sugar 2 teaspoons lemon juice
I 1/2 tablespoons flour Nutmeg
Follow direction given for making vanilla sauce, using
other flavoring.
Caramel Sauce
1/2 cup caramel 3 tablespoons sugar (if desired)
1/2 cup water 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
I tablespoon flour
To make caramel melt I /2 cup sugar, stirring constantly,
but not allowing it to burn or get dark; take it from the fire
for a minute and add I /2 cup boiling water. Return to fire
and boil until smooth. This caramel will keep indefinitely.
Mix flour with sugar or water, add to caramel, and cook
until slightly thick and clear. Add vanilla just before serving.
Raisin Sauce
I 1/2 tablespoons butter I cup water
1/2 cup sugar 2 teaspoons flour
1/4 cup raisins Lemon juice
204 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Seed and chop raisins, cook in water slowly 15 minutes.
Add 2 teaspoons flour in 2 tablespoons water and cook 5
minutes more. Strain raisins out if desired, pour mixture
upon butter and sugar creamed, and add lemon juice if
needed.
LEMON JELLY
Individual recipe Large recipe
3/4 teaspoon Knox gelatine 2 tablespoons or I /2 box
1 tablespoon cold water 3/4 cup
3 tablespoons cold water 2 cups
2 tablespoons sugar I cup
1/8 inch stick cinnamon I inch
i inch square lemon rind 1/8 lemon
3/4 lemon (2 tablespoons) juice 1/2 cup
For orange juice use 1/2 cup orange juice and 1/4 cup
lemon juice, reducing the water 1/4 cup. Soak gelatine and
cold water 10 minutes. Make a syrup of cold water, sugar,
stick cinnamon, and lemon rind; cook until slightly yellow.
Pour syrup over gelatine to dissolve it. If this heat is not
sufficient set mixture in hot water. Add to mixture lemon
juice and strain all into wet molds. Chill. Serve with whipped
cream.
JELLIED WALNUTS
1/2 box gelatine, or 3/4 cup sugar
I tablespoon granulated gelatine 1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup cold water 3 tablespoons lemon
1/3 cup boiling water juice
Make same as lemon jelly. Cover bottom of shallow pan
with half of mixture; when firm place on it, I inch apart,
halves of English walnuts. Make walnuts adhere with a few
drops of the mixture. Cover with remaining mixture. Chill,
and cut in squares for serving.
SUGAR 205
FRUIT PUDDING
1/2 box gelatine, or i orange
2 tablespoons granulated 4 figs
gelatine 6 dates
1/2 cup cold water 2 bananas
I 1/2 cups boiling water 18 blanched"almonds
2 cups sugar 1/4 pound malaga grapes
Juice 2 lemons
Proceed as in lemon jelly with first five ingredients.
Strain mixture, and when quite stiff stir in the fruit. Slice
the bananas and cut orange, figs, and dates in small pieces
before adding to mixture. Turn all into a wet mold, let
harden, and serve with whipped cream.
SPANISH CREAM
1/4 box gelatine, or 3 yolks of eggs
I tablespoon granulated 1/3 cup sugar
gelatine 1/4 teaspoon salt
3 cups milk I teaspoon vanilla, or
3 whites of eggs 3 tablespoons wine
Soak gelatine in part of milk, scald the balance, add sugar
and gelatine, pour mixture slowly on yolks of eggs slightly
beaten. Return to double boiler and cook until thickened,
stirring constantly. Remove from fire, add salt, flavoring,
and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Turn into wet individual
molds and chill. Serve with cream. More gelatine will be
required if large molds are used.
BAVARIAN CREAM
I /4 cup cold milk or water 3/4 cup sugar
1/4 package gelatine 1/16 teaspoon salt
1 cup double cream and 2 yolks eggs
2 cups milk, or i teaspoon vanilla, or
2 cups single cream 2 tablespoons rum or sherry
(Fruit mixture instead of wine, 1/2 orange, 1/4 lemon,
1/4 pineapple.)
206 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Whip cream and stand aside to drain. Scald 3/4 cup milk
and stir slowly into eggs, sugar, and salt beaten, and then
return to double boiler and stir until it begins to thicken.
Take from fire, stir in the soaked gelatine and flavoring, stir
until gelatine is dissolved, then strain it. When cold and
beginning to set whip it a few minutes with the Dover egg-
beater and then mix in lightly the whipped cream and turn
it into a mold to harden. It should have a spongy texture.
Do not use any of the cream which has drained through.
Coffee Bavarian Cream
May be made by omitting the vanilla and soaking the
gelatine in I /4 cup clear black coffee or steep I /4 cup ground
coffee in milk that is used for custard.
Chocolate Bavarian Cream
Cook until smooth 2 ounces chocolate (melted), 1/4 cup
sugar, i /4 cup boiling water ; add to the milk used for cus-
tard and proceed as directed above, using vanilla.
Caramel Bavarian Cream
Caramelize 3/4 cup sugar and dissolve in hot milk for
custard, use in addition 1/4 cup sugar with the yolks of eggs
for the custard and proceed as directed above, using vanilla.
ORANGE BAVAROISE
1/2 lemon grated rind and juice
1/2 cup white wine or orange juice
1/3 cup sugar
2 eggs
i teaspoon granulated gelatine
i tablespoon cold water
Mix lemon, wine, sugar, soaked gelatine, and yolks of
eggs; stir vigorously over water until gelatine is dissolved
and mixture thickened. Set in pan of ice water and when
mixture begins to harden beat with Dover egg-beater until
SUGAR 207
it will drop from the spoon ; mix into it beaten whites of eggs
and turn into a mold lined with lady fingers and chill. It may
be served in orange baskets.
COFFEE MOUSSE
i ounce gelatine dissolved in 1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup cold water I cup strong coffee
1/2 cup boiling water I cup whipped cream
Pour the boiling water onto the gelatine. Add the sugar
and coffee, and cool. When it begins to set, whip, add the
cream, and whip all together. Put in mold. When serving
garnish with whipped cream.
JERUSALEM PUDDING
1/4 cup rice 3 figs, and same amount of
i /2 box gelatine ginger
1/2 cup powdered sugar 1/2 cup sherry wine
i teaspoon vanilla I pint cream
Wash rice and boil in plenty of water until soft, drain, and
dry on towel. Cut figs and ginger into small pieces, cover
with sherry, and let stand until rice is ready. Soak gelatine
in 1/2 cup of cold water 15 minutes, then dissolve over hot
water. Whip cream and add powdered sugar, vanilla, gela-
tine, rice, and fruit; stir in a cold place until it begins to
thicken. Place in mold and when firm, serve with whipped
cream.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE
Individual recipe Large recipe
1/2 teaspoon granulated gelatine 1/4 box
i tablespoon cold water 1/4 cup
I 1/2 tablespoons scalded cream 1/3 cup
4 teaspoons powdered sugar 1/3 cup
1/2 cup thin cream (whip from) 31/2 cups
1/2 teaspoon vanilla 11/2 teaspoons
Lady fingers 6
208 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in scalded cream,
strain into a bowl, and add sugar and vanilla. Set bowl in
the water, stir constantly until it begins to thicken, then
fold in whip from cream, adding one third at a time. Should
gelatine mixture become too thick, melt over water and
again cool before adding whip. Line mold with lady fingers,
turn mixture in, spread evenly, and chill.
FRUIT SOUFFLE
3/4 cup fruit pulp peach, Whites 3 eggs
apricot, quince, or prune Sugar
Cook fruit, rub through sieve, sweeten, and perhaps add
lemon juice. If canned fruit is used, first drain from syrup.
Beat whites of eggs until stiff, add gradually fruit pulp, and
continue beating; turn into, buttered molds, having them
3/4 full. Set molds in pan of hot water and bake in slow oven
until firm, which may be determined by pressing with finger.
Serve with soft custard.
ANGEL CREAM
Take a loaf of angel cake or sunshine cake, and with a
sharp knife cut a circle from the center. Fill the hollow with
whipped cream. Place a thin slice of the cake on as a cover,
coat the entire cake with a heavy chocolate filling. Set in a
cool place until needed. Slice as you would a frozen pudding.
SPLASH
1/2 pound marshmallows 1/2 cup nut meats
I dozen macaroons I jar cream
Cut the marshmallows into small pieces and break up
the macaroons. Whip the cream, beat in the other ingredi-
ents, adding a little salt. Serve in glasses, chilled.
SUGAR 209
MAPLE MOUSSE
I cup maple syrup
I pint cream
Mix and beat with a Dover egg-beater till thick. Put in a
mold and pack in ice and salt.
VANILLA MOUSSE
I pint cream
4 tablespoons flour
I tablespoon vanilla
Whip the cream and place on a sieve to drain. Return to
bowl and stir in lightly the powdered sugar and the flavoring.
Place in a mold and pack in ice and salt for 2 hours.
COFFEE PARFAIT
Pour a syrup of I /2 cup of sugar and I cup of strong coffee
over 2 beaten eggs. Cook in a double boiler until it thickens.
Remove from the stove and when it is cool combine it with
I pint of thick cream beaten until stiff. Fill mold and pack
in ice and salt for 3 or 4 hours.
FROZEN ORANGE WHIP
I cup sugar Few grains salt
2/3 cup water I pint heavy cream
1/4 cup orange juice 2 oranges
Grated rind 2 oranges
Boil the sugar and water together until it spins a thread.
Add the orange rind, juice, and salt. Cover and keep in a
warm place I hour, then cool. Beat the cream until stiff
and add the orange syrup gradually, beating all the time.
Cut the oranges crosswise, remove the pulp with a spoon.
Pour the juice from the oranges into a brick mold, then put
in alternate layers of cream mixture and orange pulp until
210 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
the mold is filled to overflowing. Pack in salt and finely
chopped ice, in equal parts. Let it stand 2 hours. Garnish
with candied orange peel.
WALNUT ICE
I cup granulated sugar i pint cream whipped
I cup water 1 teaspoon vanilla
Whites 3 eggs I cup chopped walnut meats
Boil the sugar and water until it threads, and pour it
over the whites of eggs beaten stiff and dry. To this add the
whipped cream, vanilla, and nut meats, folding the latter
in gently. Pack in salt and ice and freeze.
1-2-3 ICE-CREAM
Juice and part of grated rind of I lemon
Juice and pulp of 2 oranges
3 bananas, squashed through a sieve
2 cups of sugar
Whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff
2 cups of cold water
Mix all together, add a little salt and freeze.
CHAPTER XIII
FOOD ACCESSORIES
BEFERAGES AND CONDIMENTS
BESIDES the food substances actually needed for the
maintenance of the health of the body, we have other
foods which are added to give variety to place of tea
our meals. These all fall in the class of and coffee
luxuries and cannot be afforded by the poor. Tea and
coffee are the exceptions to this statement, for though
they properly belong in the class of luxuries, they give
so much comfort that they are considered essential in
the diet by the very poorest. They are not, however,
foods, although they take away the sense of fatigue.
They lessen the feeling of hunger but tend to increase
the waste of tissue, for they contain substances which
are stimulants to the central nervous system. They
also tend to retard the digestion of food in the stomach,
and tea in particular has a harmful action on the mu-
cous lining of the stomach which prevents the desire
for the proper amount of food needed by the body.
These two beverages, together with cocoa, contain
as an active constituent a substance belonging to the
chemical group of alkaloids. This is similar to quinine,
cocaine, nicotine, morphine, and strychnine. Although
this substance is small in quantity in tea when properly
made, enough is present to be harmful when the tea
is drunk after the teapot is allowed to stand indefinitely
on the back of the stove. When cocoa is made with
milk, the food value is, of course, greatly increased,
212 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
but it must not be forgotten that it still contains one of
the alkaloids and should be given to children in very
weak form.
Tea was first introduced into England in 1610 by the
Dutch East India Company. It is an evergreen shrub
grown chiefly in Japan, China, and some
Tea kinds , , /. J^/ ' . , ,
parts of India. Ihe delicate leaves and
buds at the ends of the sprays are picked during the
spring and summer. Different grades of teas are made
from the different leaves. The buds make the finest
pekoe teas, and the other leaves are graded in descend-
ing scale according to their size. Oolongs come from
Formosa while the scented Orange Pekoe is from the
Canton district. Chinese teas as a whole have the most
delicate flavor but lack body. Indian teas, on the other
hand, have the greatest degree of body and astringency
and are therefore suitable for blending. Ceylon tea has
a rich and peculiar flavor. The difference between a
green and a black tea lies in the curing. For a green tea
the leaves are steamed, rolled, and dried immediately,
while for a black tea the leaves are dried from twelve to
twenty-four hours, rolled, and then allowed to ferment
before drying. Most black teas are blends while green
teas come largely from northern China and Japan.
To make tea properly, water should be freshly drawn
and used as soon as it boils. It should then be poured on
How to the tea leaves in an earthernware pot and
make tea allowed to stand three to five minutes. It
should then be poured off the leaves, as a longer steep-
ing extracts more of the harmful constituents. If tea
is made for a large number of people, as for a reception,
it can be done very simply before the reception by
pouring a small amount of boiling water (about ten
FOOD ACCESSORIES 213
teaspoonfuls of tea to a pint of water) on the tea-
leaves, letting it stand for four minutes, then pouring
it off. This strong decoction may then be served from
the teapot by adding only about a tablespoonful in the
cup and filling it up with boiling water. In this way
every cup of tea served during the afternoon is equally
fresh and good.
A retired Smyrna merchant introduced the use of
coffee into England in 1652, and his Greek servant
started the first coffee-house in London.
The plant is a native of Arabia but is
now grown in many tropical countries. The coffee bean
which is used for making the concoction corresponds
to the stone in a fruit similar to a cherry. The pulp of
the fruit is softened by fermentation and the beans
dried in the air. The husk is removed by rolling and the
beans are then separated and sorted according to size.
They are shipped raw but are roasted before being
ground, in order to develop the flavor. There are several
varieties on the market, those from Mocha and Java
having the best flavor. The ones from Mexico and
Brazil are not so expensive and are constantly growing
in popularity.
Since both tea and coffee are stimulants to the nerv-
ous system and not foods, they should never be given
to children. They take away the sense of fatigue which
is the reason for their popularity, especially at lunch,
but they should not be used to take the place of food.
A cup of coffee alone does not make a suitable lunch
for anybody. A cup of tea at four o'clock in the after-
noon when the vitality is at a low point is a good stim-
ulant, especially when taken with bread and butter
or toast to provide the food the body needs and to
214 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
prevent any irritating effect the tea may have on the
stomach.
Cocoa is a native of Mexico and was introduced into
Europe by Columbus. It is obtained from the bean-like
seeds of the fruit of the cacao tree. Both
cocoa and chocolate are prepared from
these seeds. In order to get the best chocolate, the seeds
are dried, fermented in heaps, and roasted. This devel-
ops the flavor and frees the seeds from their husks. The
inner portion thus obtained is broken up and ground.
When the fat is expressed from this and the remainder
pulverized, we have cocoa. Pure cocoa is generally
mixed with starch or sugar to keep it from lumping.
For this reason, cocoa to be well made should be boiled ;
but since it is not wise to boil milk, the best way to
make cocoa is to mix the powdered cocoa and sugar to-
gether with some water and boil this for four or five
minutes. The milk may then be added and the whole
heated, preferably in a double boiler. The addition of
a little salt greatly improves the flavor of the cocoa.
With the coming of prohibition the popularity of
fruit drinks has notably increased. These are of wide
variety and may be made with a basis of
Fruit drinks J . J ,
tea or ginger ale. Since fruit is such a
wholesome article of diet, the use of lemonade, orange-
ade, grape juice and other fruit juices should be culti-
vated, especially for young people. Their attractiveness
may be increased by using different combinations of
fruits.
Other food accessories used to give flavor to the diet
contain chemical substances known as essential oils
and ethereal salts. These are found in herbs, fruits, and
spices. The expert cook should be familiar with these
FOOD ACCESSORIES 215
and should understand that the best results are ob-
tained by a judicious mixture of flavors. For instance,
the much-despised chocolate cornstarch pudding as it
is usually served in a restaurant may be greatly im-
proved by the addition of a little coffee, salt, vanilla,
and cinnamon, or even orange and sometimes rose.
Herbs:
Anise: seeds, used in cookies.
Bay-leaf: leaves of a small shrub, used with tomatoes in
sauces and soups.
Basil: leaves, used in salads and walnut ketchup.
Fennel: seeds, used for liqueurs; leaves, with fish.
Garlic: salads.
Mint: leaves, used in sauce for lamb, and drinks.
Marjoram: 1
Saffron: , , .
> used for poultry stuffing.
Sage:
Summer savory: J
Tarragon: leaves; used in vinegar for salad dressing;
i /4 teaspoon to I cup of sauce to bring out the flavor.
Thyme: leaves, for poultry stuffing.
Spices:
Allspice: an evergreen from the island of Jamaica. The
allspice of commerce is the berries of cassia. Used
with other spices in soupstock and stews.
Capers: flower buds pickled in vinegar, used in sauce for
mutton, and in tartare sauce.
Caraway: seeds, used in cookies and rye bread.
Cassia: bark of a plant from China and Bengal, a variety
of cinnamon; buds, immature fruit. Used for flavor
in cakes, puddings, and pickles.
Celery: seeds, used in soupstock and creamed soups.
Cinnamon: bark of a laurel from Ceylon, used with
other spices, cakes, puddings, and pickles.
216 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Cloves: dried buds from a plant in the East Indies, same
uses as cinnamon, particularly with pickled peaches.
Ginger: root of a plant growing in India and China,
though cultivated in Africa, Australia, and tropical
America, used in gingerbread, cookies, and puddings.
Mace: seedcoat of the nutmeg, a good flavor in creamed
oysters and creamed fish.
Mustard: seeds, both black and white; used in sour
pickles.
Mustard: prepared; ground with salt, spices, and vinegar,
used with ham and corned beef.
Nutmeg: seeds of a tree from the East Indies, dried after
washing in lime-water and powdered, used on cus-
tards, junket, and cottage cheese.
Peppers:
Black: dried, immature berries with the hulls.
White: dried, mature berries without the hulls.
Red: (i) Paprika: mild, dried, ripe fruit of capsicum
without seeds.
(2) Cayenne: active, seeds.
(3) Tabasco : sauce prepared from capsicum.
Curry powder: mixture of turmeric and other spices, used
with rice and mixtures of rice and chicken and
left-over meat or fish.
Extracts:
Extracts are solutions in alcohol of the odorous principle
derived from aromatic fruits and plants. They contain
essential oils like thymol, or the oil of thyme, menthol,
or the oil of peppermint, and the oil of lemon or orange,
These are all used mainly to flavor cakes and desserts.
Almond: oil of bitter almond, or oil from the seed of
apricots or peaches.
Anise: oil of anise.
Cinnamon: oil of cinnamon.
FOOD ACCESSORIES 217
Clove: oil of clove.
Lemon: oil from the skin of lemons.
Orange : oil from the skin of oranges.
Peppermint: oil of mint.
Vanilla : soluble matter of the vanilla bean.
Wintergreen : oil of wintergreen.
Pickles, Sauces, etc.:
A pickle is a food substance, usually fruit or vegetable,
preserved in any kind of vinegar, with or without
spices, without taking up any metallic compound other
than salt.
Catchup (ketchup, catsup) : made from properly prepared
pulp of clean, sound, fresh, ripe tomatoes, with
spices and with or without sugar and vinegar. Chop-
ped capers, chili, horse-radish, mustard, or ginger
may be included.
Walnut catchup : fresh green walnuts ground and soaked
in vinegar and salt; used with cold meat, particu-
larly beef.
Cassareep: from the root of the cassava, with spices; used
as a basis for sauces.
Chutney: from mango apple, with chilies, spices, lemon
juice, raisins, figs, salt, and sugar; used with beef.
Soy sauce: from the soy bean, fermented and mixed with
brine; used largely by Chinese with rice and in chop
suey.
Tabasco: pulp of the red pepper mixed with tomato, in
vinegar as a preservative, used with cheese dishes and
where a very hot flavor is desired.
Worcestershire: from cassareep, with spices, garlic, pep-
pers, lime juice, curry, brown sugar, and vinegar;
used in gravies and soup, also served with meats.
Devonshire sauce and Harvey sauce are similar to
Worcestershire.
218 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
BEVERAGES
COLD WATER COFFEE
i cup ground coffee
7 cups cold water
1/4 egg
Scald granite-ware coffeepot. Wash egg, break, and dilute
with one half cup of cold water, stir into the coffee, and mix
well. Add the rest of the cold water and bring slowly to a
boil. Remove to back of stove, add one tablespoon cold
water, and allow it to stand a few minutes. Egg may be
omitted and 1/4 cup cold water added instead of I table-
spoon at last to settle coffee.
HOT WATER COFFEE
I cup ground coffee 1/2 cup cold water
7 cups boiling water I /4 egg
Mix cold water, egg, and coffee. Add boiling water, let it
come to a boil, and then set it back where it will not boil but
keep hot for 10 minutes, or boil 3 minutes and set aside for
10 minutes.
FILTERED COFFEE
I cup finely ground coffee 6 cups boiling water
Place coffee in strainer, strainer in coffeepot, and pot in
hot water. Add boiling water gradually, cover between addi-
tions of water and allow it to filter. If desired stronger allow
it to refilter. Add first half-cup of water by tablespoons, and
rest by half-cups.
TEA
I teaspoon tea I cup boiling water
Scald an earthenware or china teapot. Put in tea and pour
over it boiling water. Let it stand on back of range or in
FOOD ACCESSORIES 219
warm place 3 minutes. Strain and serve immediately, either
with or without sugar and cream. Avoid second steeping of
tea leaves. If this is done so large an amount of tannin is
extracted that ill results may follow.
RUSSIAN TEA
Follow recipe for making tea. Russian tea may be served
either hot or cold, but always without milk. A thin slice of
lemon is allowed for each cup. Sugar is added according to
taste. As in Russia, a preserved strawberry may be allowed
each cup, or candied cherries may be used, or a clove added.
ICED TEA
4 teaspoons tea 2 cups boiling water
Follow recipe for making tea, strain into glasses 1/3 full
of cracked ice. Sweeten to taste. The flavor is much finer by
chilling the infusion quickly.
CHOCOLATE
I 1/2 squares Baker's chocolate I cup boiling water
3 tablespoons sugar 3 cups milk
Few grains salt
Scald milk, melt chocolate in saucepan placed over hot
water, add sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water; when
smooth place on range and boil one minute ; add to scalded
milk in double boiler and cook for several minutes. Beat
with Dover egg-beater just before serving and serve with
whipped cream in chocolate cups. 11/2 ounces vanilla
chocolate may be substituted for Baker's chocolate, and,
being sweetened, requires less sugar. 3 tablespoons cocoa
may be used instead of chocolate. When cocoa is used, it
should be boiled with a little water for three minutes before
adding it to the milk. One yolk of egg may be added to the
cooked chocolate and sugar after cooling it, and before the
milk is added.
220 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
ICED COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE
Mix equal parts of coffee and cold chocolate. Sweeten with
maple syrup and serve with whipped cream. A spoonful of
vanilla ice-cream may be added to each glass instead of the
whipped cream if preferred.
FRUIT PUNCH
I pineapple, or I can grated pineapple
1 cup boiling water
2 cups freshly made tea (i heaping tablespoon Ceylon tea;
steep 5 minutes)
I dozen lemons, the juice
3 oranges, sliced and quartered
I quart bottle Apollinaris water
3 cups sugar boiled with 11/2 cups water, 6 to 8 minutes
I pint water
Ice
Grate pineapple, add water, and boil 15 minutes. Strain
through jelly bag, pressing out all the juice; let cool, and
add the rest of the fruit juice, the tea, and syrup. Add
Apollinaris water just before serving. Pieces of pineapple,
strawberries, mint leaves, or slices of banana are sometimes
added as a garnish.
LEMON GINGER ALE
2 bottles ginger ale
Juice 3 lemons
3/4 cup sugar
Mix thoroughly and serve chilled with mint leaves.
GRAPE JUICE (i)
Wash grapes and pick from stems. Put fruit in preserving
kettle and crush slightly. Heat slowly and boil gently for
half an hour. Crush fruit with wooden spoon ; strain through
cheesecloth over sieve or colander. Drain well, then draw
FOOD ACCESSORIES 221
the edges of cheesecloth together and twist hard to press
out all the juice possible. Measure strained juice and put in
a clean preserving kettle and on fire. When it boils up, draw
back and skim. Let it boil up again and skim. Add one gill
of sugar for each quart of juice. Stir until dissolved. Boil
5 minutes, skimming carefully. Fill hot sterilized jars or
bottles. Put jars in a moderate oven for 10 minutes in pans
of boiling water. Fill jars with more boiling juice and seal.
GRAPE JUICE (2)
Prepare grapes as above. Put in double boiler (i8o-2OO),
crush, and heat. Strain, put in sterilized jars or bottles, and
set in water which is kept at or below boiling 10 minutes.
Fill to overflowing with boiling juice and seal.
SPICES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES
GRAPE PRESERVES
I pint fruit 3/4 pint sugar
Wash and drain grapes. Remove pulp from skins. Heat
pulp, cook 10 to 15 minutes. Strain out seeds. Add skins
and cook 10 minutes. Measure. Add sugar and cook until
liquid thickens.
GRAPE MARMALADE
I pint fruit 3/4 pound sugar
Wash and drain grapes. Remove from stems. Heat to
boiling point; mash and cook until seeds come out. Strain
out seeds and skins. Cook 10 minutes. Measure. Add sugar
and boil until liquid thickens. Put in sterilized jelly glasses.
SPICED GRAPES
8 pounds grapes 2 tablespoons cinnamon
3 pounds sugar 2 tablespoons cloves
I pint vinegar, scant
222 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Whole spices may be substituted in place of the ground.
Cook vinegar, spices, and fruit after it has been prepared
10 to 20 minutes. Add sugar and boil down until it is of
right consistency. Prepare grapes the same as for preserved
grapes. Plums may be used in place of grapes.
ORANGE MARMALADE
(English recipe)
To each 5 oranges and I grapefruit allow 2 lemons, 5
pints water, and 5 pounds sugar. Cut the fruit into quarters
and remove the pips, putting them to soak in a little of the
water. Slice the fruit (rind and pulp) very thinly, and soak
24 hours in the rest of water. Strain the pips and add water
from them to the rind. Boil the whole briskly about 11/2
hours or till rind is tender, then add sugar and boil for
another 1/2 hour. Much time is saved by putting the fruit
through the meat-chopper.
CARROT AND ORANGE MARMALADE
Scrape and put through food-chopper sufficient carrot to
make 2 cups; add I orange cut in thin slices, barely cover
with water, and cook until tender. Add the juice from
2 lemons, a small piece of grated ginger root, and I cup of
sugar. Cook slowly until thick, put in jars, and cover with
melted paraffin.
PEACH JAM AND MARMALADE
Take ripe free-stone peaches, pare, and cut in small pieces.
To every pound of peaches allow I /2 pound of white sugar.
Put the sugar over the peaches and let them stand 2 hours ;
then put into a porcelain kettle on the fire, and boil slowly,
stirring all the time until the fruit is mashed smooth and it
almost jellies.
For marmalade, add almost as much sugar as fruit. When
done add to 1/2 bushel of peaches i pint of hot brandy.
FOOD ACCESSORIES 223
GREEN TOMATO MARMALADE
8 pounds green tomatoes I lemon cut fine
7 pounds granulated sugar 4 dessertspoons ground ginger
Make a syrup of the sugar by adding a little water. When
boiling, drop into it the tomatoes, carefully washed and dried
and all the spots removed, and cut in slices. Add the lemon
and ginger. If the ginger is very fresh and strong a less quan-
tity must be used. Boil all well together till thick and clear
like marmalade. It will take some hours, boiling slowly.
Stir occasionally to keep from burning. Put hot in jelly
glasses.
TOMATO MINCE MEAT
8 quarts green tomatoes 2 tablespoons salt
5 pounds brown sugar i cup vinegar
2 pounds seeded raisins 2 tablespoons ground cloves
Candied orange peel 2 tablespoons cinnamon
A little citron I tablespoon nutmeg
i teacup suet
Chop the tomatoes fine or put them through a food-
chopper. Draw off all the juice and add as much fresh water
as juice and scald in this water. Drain off all this liquor,
add the sugar, raisins, suet, vinegar, and salt, and cook
until dark and thick (slow cooking is best). When cool, add
the spices and candied fruit. When to be used add apple
and cider or brandy. Put up in air-tight jars.
TOMATO PRESERVE
I pound ripe tomatoes after removing skins
I pound granulated sugar
Little ginger root
Increase quantities in same proportion, as desired. Re-
move skin from ginger root with boiling water. Boil 2 hours
224 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and add to every pound of sugar the grated rind of one
lemon. Boil one half hour, or longer if too thin. Bottle hot.
APPLE GINGER
4 pounds apples I ounce ginger root, green preferred,
4 pounds sugar but white will do
1 pint water Grated rind 4 lemons
Pare apples and chop fine with ginger root. Make a syrup
of sugar and water, add apple and grated lemon rind, boil
all slowly 2 hours or until it looks clear.
CURRANT CONSERVE
21/2 pounds currants
I 1/2 pounds raisins, chopped
21/2 pounds sugar
2 oranges, grated rind and pulp
Boil to jelly.
CHIPPED PEARS
8 pounds pears 1/4 pound Canton ginger
4 pounds sugar 4 lemons
Wipe the pears, peel, and cut in small pieces. Add the
sugar and ginger and let stand overnight. In the morning
add the lemons cut in small pieces and cook slowly 3 hours.
PLUM CONSERVE (i)
5 pounds plums, weighed after peeling and pitting
5 pounds granulated sugar
2 pounds seeded raisins (not the seedless ones) cut in small
pieces
4 oranges, grated rind, and pulp, chipped.
Cook the plums 20 minutes before adding the sugar. Put
in the sugar and bring to a boil. Add the raisins and the
FOOD ACCESSORIES 225
oranges and cook to a thick conserve. Put hot into jelly
glasses.
PLUM CONSERVE (2)
5 pounds plums 2 oranges (juice and grated
2 pounds seeded raisins rind)
I pound walnuts 31/2 pounds sugar
, Boil 40 minutes.
RASPBERRY BAR-LE-DUC
i quart perfect red raspberries 3 cups sugar .
I cup currant juice I cup red raspberry juice
Combine the fruit juices, add the sugar, let boil till they
are very thick and almost like jelly. Drop in the raspberries
one at a time, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, and remove with a
skimmer to small glasses. When all the berries are cooked,
the syrup will be considerably thinned, so boil it down till
very thick again, pour into glasses containing the raspberries,
and seal as usual.
FRUIT BUTTER
1/4 pound sugar to each pound fruit
Do not add any water
Peaches, pears, plums, or other fruit may be used sepa-
rately or in combination. Skin and core the fruit. Cook until
tender. Add the sugar, and cook until of the right thickness.
Stir carefully while cooking, as it burns easily.
QUINCE AND CRANBERRY JELLY
2 quarts cranberries
6 quinces
3 quarts cold water
Cook as for any jelly, and for each cup of strained juice,
add a cup of sugar.
226 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
PICKLING
Sweet Pickles
Watermelon, ripe cucumber, or green tomato
8 pounds fruit
4 pounds brown sugar
I quart vinegar
{Stick cinnamon (1/3)
Cassia buds (1/6)
AII u : / /~\
Allspice berries (1/3)
Cloves (1/6)
Cut watermelon in I /4 inch slices
Cut cucumber in I /2 inch slices
Cut tomatoes in eighths, if small
Cook watermelon or cucumber until tender in boiling
water to which has been added salt in proportions of
I teaspoon salt
I quart water
Turn boiling salted water over tomatoes and set them on
the back of the stove until tender. Always weigh fruit after
cooking. Make syrup, cook fruit in it until clear. Spices may
be put in a muslin bag and removed or allowed to remain
through the fruit. Place fruit in sterile cans, evaporate syrup,
cover, and seal.
Oil Pickles
5 dozen cucumbers 4 inches long I cup mustard seed
5 small onions 3 cups olive oil
I cup celery salt Vinegar
Slice cucumbers with onion, sprinkle with salt and let it
stand 24 hours. Draw off the liquor and mix with the cucum-
ber and onion, celery salt, mustard seed, and olive oil. Cover
with vinegar and bottle after a few days.
FOOD ACCESSORIES 227
Chow Chow
I gallon (8 pounds) green tomatoes, chopped
I gallon (8 pounds) cucumbers, sliced
1 gallon (4 pounds) cabbage, chopped
1/2 gallon (4 pounds) onions
2 pounds brown sugar
1/2 cup salt
1/4 pound white mustard seed
2 ounces celery seed
2 ounces turmeric (or not)
2 teaspoons black pepper
Mix, cover with vinegar, heat, and seal in sterile jars.
Mustard Pickle
2 quarts green tomatoes 2 quarts vinegar .
2 quarts small onions 4 tablespoons mustard
4 green peppers I tablespoon turmeric powder
1 quart small cucumbers 2/3 cup flour
2 cauliflower 31/2 cups sugar
Cut the vegetables in pieces and sprinkle with salt and
let stand overnight. In the morning boil in brine a few min-
utes and drain. Scald the vinegar, mix the mustard, flour,
and turmeric to a paste with water. Add to the vinegar, and
when thick, add the vegetables. Heat through and put in
jars.
Pepper Hash
12 red peppers or 2 cups when chopped
12 green peppers or 2 cups when chopped
25 onions or 14 cups when chopped
Chop fine and cover with boiling water
for 5 minutes, drain
Scald i quart vinegar"]
3 cups sugar > Cook for 20 minutes
2 tablespoons salt J
228 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Chili Sauce
15 large ripe tomatoes
6 onions
4 red peppers
1/2 head cabbage or i small one
Sugar to taste
3 tablespoons salt
5 cups vinegar
Chop all fine and cook i hour, and then stir in
i tablespoon cinnamon
I tablespoon mustard
I tablespoon celery salt
I teaspoon cloves
Seal for use
Chutney
1 pound apples, peeled 12 ripe tomatoes, medium size
3/4 pound raisins I ounce white mustard seed
6 small onions 4 ounces salt
2 red or green peppers
Skin the tomatoes and put through the meat-chopper.
Pour off as much juice as possible from them. Put the other
vegetables through the chopper, then into a crock. Boil
I quart of vinegar and 2 cups of sugar. When cool pour it
over the other ingredients in the crock and stir occasionally
for a few days.
CHAPTER XIV
THE USE OF FOOD IN THE BODY
FOODS must primarily furnish an adequate supply of
food material, but they must also furnish this material
in such form as can be utilized by the sys- A process of
tern. This process of food utilization is combustion
really one of combustion, similar to that in a stove or
furnace where the fuel material combines with oxygen
and gives off heat. It takes place in the cells of all tissue
and is very slow. Food material, like any other fuel, if
burned in the air, can be entirely consumed, leaving
nothing but ashes, but when utilized in the body the
process of combustion is slower and less complete.
Before combustion can take place in the body all
food must be put into the form in which it can be car-
ried by the blood and utilized by the cells. The first
step in this process is to change solid foods into fluids.
For this, plenty of water must be supplied either be-
tween meals or with the meals. The insoluble foods
that cannot be put directly into solution must be
changed into chemical compounds that can be dis-
solved. These processes are partly mechanical and
partly chemical.
THE ORGANS OF DIGESTION
The organs that accomplish this work in the body in-
clude the following: the mouth, the stomach, the small
intestine, and the large intestine. These are arranged as
we see them on the accompanying figure. This shows
230 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
also the lungs, the heart, and the liver, all of which play
an important part in the whole process of the utili-
zation of food. The lungs are the source of supply for
the oxygen which en-
ters into combination
with the food in the
process of combus-
tion, and the liver
acts as a storehouse
for the food as it
is taken up by the
blood from the in-
testines before it is
scattered to the vari-
ous tissues through-
out the body.
In considering these
Mouth organs and the
part each plays
in digestion, we shall
begin with the mouth.
Here the action is
largely physical or
mechanical. The
teeth grind the food, and the saliva flowing constantly
from the glands into the mouth supplies the liquid
to dissolve the ground-up food, or at least soften it
so that the other juices can dissolve it. Here in the
saliva we have the first one of a group of interesting
chemical compounds that are provided by nature to
cause chemical changes. Their action is somewhat
similar to the action of the molds and yeasts. Those
micro-organisms, however, are called "organized fer-
THE USE OF FOOD IN THE BODY 231
ments," because they themselves grow, and in the
process of growing secrete substances which cause
chemical changes in the surrounding food material.
The substances in the body which serve such a very
important function in the process of digestion are
called "unorganized ferments," because they simply
cause chemical changes without changing themselves.
Their scientific name is "enzyme," and in order to ex-
plain them, the simile is often used of the lock and
key, each key fitting one peculiar lock and one only, so
that each enzyme can cause one chemical change for
one particular food, and if it does not have a chance to
work, the food goes unchanged or undigested. This fact
shows the great importance of proper mastication of
food. The saliva must become thoroughly mixed with
the food substance in order that the enzyme which it
contains may act upon starch, converting it into sugar.
This action continues while the food passes down the
throat into the stomach and there continues for a time
while the food is more or less stratified.
In the stomach among the substances present in the
gastric juice is free hydrochloric acid which ultimately
stops the action of the saliva on starch. Action in the
If then the starch is not acted upon by the stomach
saliva, it passes unchanged through the stomach into
the small intestine which gives it an opportunity to be-
come fermented. The gastric juice contains enzymes as
well as hydrochloric acid. The most important of these
is pepsin which acts on protein material, breaking it
down into two simpler forms. Rennin, another enzyme,
is also present in the gastric juice; this has the effect of
curdling milk; a singular action because the aim of all
digestion is to put food into soluble form, whereas the
232 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
curdling of milk is solidifying the protein material that
is already in liquid form. These solid proteins are re-
dissolved by the aid of the pepsin in the gastric
juices. The juices of the stomach have little effect on
fats except to put some into emulsified form. The
acid present in the stomach also dissolves the cell
walls that surround fat globules, making it possible for
the juices of the intestines to act upon the fat.
Up to this point the processes of digestion are largely
preparatory. Certain of the simpler protein compounds
Action in small and some mineral matter are directly used
intestine by th e body from the stomach, being
taken up by the blood through the walls of the stomach.
The largest proportion of the food, however, passes on
to the small intestine. Here the great work of digestion
goes on. The food itself is pushed along by muscular
action, entirely involuntary. In fact all of the process
of digestion is involuntary after the food leaves the
mouth. In the small intestine we have three dis-
tinct secretions, each containing important enzymes.
The first of these is the secretion from the pancreatic
gland. This contains enzymes which complete the
change of starch to sugar; break up fats and reduce
protein substances to their simplest forms.
From the walls of the intestines we have the second
of the secretions. This contains enzymes which act
upon each of the distinct, complex sugars, reducing
them to simpler forms.
The third of these intestinal secretions is the bile,
which makes the conditions for all of these changes
more favorable, helping especially in the digestion of
fats. All of these secretions are alkaline and neutralize
the acid carried in from the stomach.
THE USE OF FOOD IN THE BODY 233
There are no digestive enzymes present in the large
intestine. The mechanical motion of this intestine,
however, works the food back and forth, Large
forcing it back into the small intestine to intestine
insure as complete digestion as possible. The waste
that is left is then eliminated from the body. The
movements of this tract should be normal. If they are
too rapid the patient suffers with diarrhea. If they are
too sluggish a condition of constipation results. Hence
bulky foods such as fruits and green vegetables, and
acid foods, as oranges, lemons, and tomatoes, are de-
sirable in the diet because they have an exciting effect
on the action of the intestines.
INFLUENCES FOR GOOD DIGESTION
The flow of all of the digestive secretions is depend-
ent upon several things. Perhaps the most important
is a regular time for meals. The system becomes ad-
justed to a regular demand for the flow of these diges-
tive juices, and the supply corresponds to the demand.
Also, proper mastication is always a signal to the secre-
tions of the stomach and intestines to be ready for their
share in the work. The sight, smell, and taste of foods
have a direct effect upon the flow of the juices. Fre-
quently one does not feel hungry until one has a whiff
of food being prepared for dinner. Then the familiar
gnawing feeling of hunger becomes apparent. This is a
physiological fact caused by the flow of the secretions,
due to the odor of food. The nervous state of the person
has a direct effect on the flow of the secretions. Fa-
tigue, worry, and anger all tend to retard digestion, so
that it is far better for a very tired person to take a
glass of warm milk or a cup of soup, even if it is near
234 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
the regular meal hour, and rest for an hour before
eating a hearty meal. Attractive service and pleasing
companionship both tend to good digestion. Good
humor at meal time is a valuable aid to digestion.
Concentrated foods such as sugar have a very irri-
tating effect on the lining of the intestinal tract, which
is one reason why candy is unwholesome between
meals. The proportion in which fats, protein, and car-
bohydrate are eaten, affects digestion. Since fat is so
largely digested in the intestines, food that is coated
with fat, as are foods fried in fat, pass through the
stomach without giving the juices in the stomach a
chance to work upon the food material, hence, fatty
foods cannot be easily digested by delicate persons or
those of sedentary habits, but may be by vigorous
persons doing heavy exercise who are able to utilize
the energy provided by foods retained a long time in
the intestines.
The part so far described of the process of the utiliza-
tion of foods in the body is called digestion. The next
stage of the process is called absorption.
ABSORPTION
When the food has been put into soluble form it en-
ters the circulation and is distributed as needed to
the various tissues throughout the body. The greatest
amount of absorption takes place in the small intes-
tine, though some of the mineral salts and the simpler
proteins are absorbed from the stomach, and some food
can be used by the body from the larger intestine, as is
proved by the ability to keep a patient alive when
rectal feeding alone has to be relied upon. Only such
foods can be used for rectal feeding, however, as are
THE USE OF FOOD IN THE BODY 235
predigested, since there are no enzymes present in the
large intestines.
USES OF FOOD IN THE BODY
The food material as absorbed is carried by the
blood, together with oxygen taken up from the lungs,
to each cell in every part of the body. Utilization of
this food material by the cells constitutes life and is not
thoroughly known. The protoplasm of the cell itself
plays an important part in this process. Some of the
material is utilized by the cell for repair and new
growth. The rest of the material goes through the
process of combustion or oxidation which is caused by
the activity of the cells. Starch, now in the form of
sugar, sugars, and fats are burned to form carbonic
acid and water. If these foods are eaten in excess of the
body requirements they are stored in the body as fat.
Hence a constant gain in weight of an adult is a sign
of over-eating or under- exercise, and can be avoided
with care of the diet. It is a sign of self-indulgence. In
the burning of protein, on the other hand, the process
is not so complete. Some of the hydrogen and of the
carbon as well as the nitrogen is left in the waste prod-
ucts which are carried off in the urine in the form of
urea and uric acid. Hence the heat produced from
protein food is less in the body than if the same foods
were burned in the furnace.
THE ELIMINATION OF WASTES
In this process of utilization of the food substances
by the cells to obtain muscular energy with its resulting
heat, there are certain waste products. These are car-
ried by the blood to the various points in the body
236 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
where they are thrown off. Some of these waste prod-
ucts are the nitrogenous compounds spoken of in the
paragraph above. These compounds are the natural
result of cell activity and if protein is not provided in
the food it will be taken from the cell itself, which
causes the wasting away of the tissue. These products
are carried by the blood to the kidneys where they are
excreted. A second waste product is carbon dioxide,
which is carried by the venous blood back to the lungs
and is exhaled. A third waste product is water. This
can be given off from the lungs in the form of water
vapor, or excreted from the kidneys in urine, or from
the skin as perspiration. "Insensible perspiration" by
a person at rest may amount to 60 per cent of the
water eliminated through the kidneys. It may be many
times as much in the case of a person at hard labor.
The last waste product is the mineral matter from the
food in excess of body requirements. Some of this is
returned to the digestive tract and eliminated through
the large intestine. The elements eliminated in this
way are phosphorus, calcium, and iron, while others,
such as potassium and sodium, are found in the urine.
R -a I w o o
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CHAPTER XV
THE MEASUREMENT OF FOOD FALUES
ACCORDING to the definition of food that we gave when
we were discussing the chemical composition of foods,
Body need we said that there were two functions for
for fuel food in the body. The first of these was the
providing of heat and energy, and the other the build-
ing of tissue. The body is similar to any machine in
that it must have fuel of some sort to keep it going.
An automobile is absolutely helpless with an empty gas-
oline tank, and a locomotive is powerless to pull a heavy
train unless steam is supplied by the boiler. The body
also, in order to perform work of any kind, must have
fuel. The work performed is of two kinds. Whenever
we move a muscle, we are performing work; in taking
a step the body must lift its own weight. Of course the
more violent the work done by the body, the more the
fuel that must be provided. The body, however, is doing
another type of work all the time, like a clock. The
heart is ever in motion, performing enough work in the
course of twenty-four hours to be sufficient to raise a
man twenty-five hundred feet. At the same time, with
every breath we take there is muscular energy ex-
pended in the expansion and contraction of the lungs
and diaphragm. Also every meal eaten must be di-
gested, and this requires from three to five hours of
steady muscular activity.
There is no other way to obtain all of the fuel thus
required by the body except from the food we eat. The
MEASUREMENT OF FOOD VALVES 239
sun is the source of all energy on the earth. Plants are
able to transform this energy received from T
^_i U.L. r r i- i-.,. j L .L. j. Fuel foods
the sun in the form of light and heat into
chemical substances, combining it with elements from
the air, soil, and water to form energy-bearing sub-
stances which are stored in its tissues. As we have seen,
these are carbohydrates, fats, and proteins. They are
found in all kinds of vegetable foods in different pro-
portions and can be used directly as human food. Or
they may be used as food for animals and the energy
contained in them utilized for the life processes of the
animal and transformed into animal flesh. Only a small
percentage of the energy in the plants is left to be
stored in the flesh of the animal, since most of it must
be utilized for muscular energy and heat. The animal's
flesh, however, which contains fat and protein, is also
used for human food, and becomes another source of
fuel for the body.
When comparing one piece of string with another
piece, we use a unit of measure as a basis for compari-
son; we say one is three feet long and the Heat unit:
other five feet, the foot rule being a stand- c^ " 6
ard measure for length. In the same way we say one
stone weighs two pounds and another one four pounds,
the pound being the unit of measure for weight. In the
same way it is necessary to have a standard unit of
measure in order to compare the amount of heat given
by one food as compared with that given by another.
For this purpose the calorie is used. Scientifically the
calorie is very carefully defined with allowances made
for air pressure and other technical qualifications. For
our purpose, however, it is necessary to know only
that it is the term for the quantity of heat required
240 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
to raise one pint of water 4 F. For instance, if two
cupfuls of water are drawn from the faucet and placed
in a saucepan, the temperature of the water will prob-
ably be about 50 F. If this quantity of water is placed
over a gas flame and the temperature watched with a
thermometer, by the time the water has been raised
from 50 F. to 54 F. we have burned up one calorie of
heat in the form of gas. It is to be remembered that
a calorie is always the measure for a quantity of heat.
With the calorie used as a standard, the various food
substances have been actually burned in order to find
how much heat a given weight would produce. This
is very carefully done in an instrument known as the
bomb calorimeter. A known weight of the food to be
examined is burned in pure oxygen in a gas-tight
chamber surrounded by a known quantity of water.
The change in the temperature of the water will show
the amount of heat liberated. In this way all of our
American food materials have been examined, and the
number of calories produced by a pound of each has
been published in a long list by the Bureau of Chemis-
try of the Department of Agriculture. It has also been
found that the food will yield to the body practically
the same amount of heat that it does when it is burned
in the calorimeter. The pure food substances will give
the following quantities of heat :
Food substance Quantity Calories Quantity Calories
Pure carbohydrate... I oz. 113 I gram 4.1
Pure protein I oz. 113 I gram 4.1
Pure fat I oz. 256 I gram 9.3
We notice that fat yields two and a quarter times as
much heat for a given weight as do carbohydrates and
proteins. The two latter yield the same amount.
MEASUREMENT OF FOOD VALUES 241
Foods then which contain a large amount of fat are the
best fuel food.
Foods which contain a large amount of water and
woody fiber have a proportionately low fuel value.
The figures as published by the Department of Agri-
culture are extremely complex and are not in a form
that can be readily used by the average ioo-calorie
housekeeper. In order to overcome this P ortions
difficulty, Dr. Langworthy of the Department devised
the scheme known as One Hundred Calorie Portions;
that is, he found that many of our common food ma-
terials were approximately one hundred calories in the
quantity ordinarily used in the household. These por-
tions are only approximate and therefore discrepancies
are found in different lists. 1 Some of the most common
of these portions are as follows:
Butter or other fats, I tablespoon
Bread, I slice (3 in.x3 l / 2 m -x I in.)
Uneeda, 4 crackers
Orange, I large
Eggs, i 1/3 medium
Potato, i medium
Meat, 2 ounces, cooked, lean
Sugar, 2 tablespoons, granulated
Sweet chocolate, about 3/4 ounces
After it is known how much fuel our foods can give
to the body, it is necessary to know how much the body
actually needs. The test of a normal diet A sufficient
for an adult is the maintenance of an & ei
average weight together with full health and efficiency.
For a child it is shown by a steady gain in weight, by
1 The most usable list of these portions is to be found in the appendix of Feeding the
Family, by Mary Swartz Rose. (Macmillan, 1917.)
242 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
good color, quiet sleep, and general good nature. If an
adult is steadily losing in weight and there are no path-
ological conditions to account for it, it is pretty sure
that something is wrong with either the kind or the
quantity of the food eaten. If on the other hand, a per-
son is steadily gaining in weight, he is not exercising
sufficiently for the amount of food eaten ; or, to put the
same idea in another way, he is eating more than his
daily needs require. It is quite possible to find a point
at which the body weight can be maintained where the
individual is at his best and does not feel dragged out
at four o'clock in the afternoon. When this point is
once found, it can and should be maintained with care
and thought.
In order to find actual figures to state the body's re-
quirements, studies were made in two ways. The first,
known as the statistical method, was a study of the
actual food consumed by groups of people living a nor-
mal life and performing the same type of work. Many
of these studies have been made all over the world.
The other one, known as the experimental method,
was a study of the actual food requirements of differ-
ent individuals living under different conditions. This
required an elaborate apparatus known as the respira-
tion calorimeter by which it was possible to measure
under fixed conditions the amount of energy given off
from the body in the form of work and heat. The re-
sults obtained from both of these methods showed that
the food required varies directly with the amount of
energy expended; that is, the man digging a ditch in
the street and the lumberman at work in the Maine
woods require far more food than a man who sits at
his desk all day, or even than the man who stands be-
MEASUREMENT OF FOOD VALUES 243
hind the counter day after day. Food requirements
were also found to vary with the age of the individual,
the sex, the body weight, and the mode of life. Growing
boys and girls, particularly between the ages of fourteen
and twenty, were found to require actually more food
than their fathers and mothers, though their body
weight was less. As the individual grows older, the life
processes slow down and not so much food is required.
With these points in mind, certain definite stand-
ards on a twenty-four hour basis have Dietary
been adopted for different occupations as standards
follows:
Mode of Life Women Men
(Calories) (Calories)
Those who sit at their work 2000 2500
Those who stand at their work 2400 3000
Those who use back muscles at their work.. . 2800 3500-6000
It might be of interest to note that the United States
Army active service ration is 4500 calories, and that at
one of our big boys' schools, the boys were eating 5000
calories a day. The average amount needed by a woman
doing her own housework is 2400 to 2500 calories a
day. The days she does the washing or hard scrub-
bing, she should eat more than on other days, and she
should not allow herself to become so tired that she
cannot eat at all. This can be prevented by taking a
glass of milk with bread and butter in the middle of
the morning before she gets too tired to eat her dinner.
When speaking of food requirements, we must take
into consideration other things besides the fuel value
of the food itself. According to our defini- Need for
tion of food, the providing of energy and building
heat is only half of the work done by foods. ma ena
The other half is the providing of the actual material out
244 POOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
of which the body is built; that is, our bodies are far
more wonderful than any man-made machine. If an
automobile bursts a tire or loses an important nut, no
amount of gasoline burned in the engine will mend the
tire or will replace the nut. If, however, a child breaks
an arm or has a cut finger, all that the doctor does is
to set the bone straight, or make sure that there is no
dirt in the cut. The healing process in both cases is
carried on entirely by the body itself. The blood brings
to the injured tissue those elements which are neces-
sary to make new tissue.
The building material needed by the body and to be
supplied by the food has already been spoken of, but
Protein we will review it rapidly here. The most
needed important is nitrogen, which is provided
in all protein foods and is required for different tissues.
It is thought that different proteins provide building
material for different tissues. Some of the proteins in
our foods are better than others for muscle-building
material, and so we have what are known as complete
and incomplete proteins. Gelatine belongs to this latter
class of proteins. Since the value of protein foods
varies in this way, it is well to use a variety of protein
foods and not to rely upon a single food for the sole
source of nitrogenous material in the body.
The quantity of protein absolutely required by each
man in twenty-four hours has been under discussion
for some years. Dr. Atwater felt that 125 grams was
not too much. In recent years, however, it has been
found possible to maintain bodily health on a smaller
quantity, from 80 to 90 grams. With war conditions,
the protein content of the diet was very greatly re-
duced in some countries, especially in Belgium and
MEASUREMENT OF FOOD VALUES 245
Germany. What effect this will have on the future
health of the nation time alone will show, although
figures are already coming in which indicate a great
loss of power to resist disease, an increase in tubercu-
losis, and a greatly increased death-rate. A recent
newspaper report from Russia indicated that it is
thought the great increase in the number of babies
which are born blind is due to the under-nourished
condition of the mothers.
If the diet of an adult contains from 2 1/2 to 3 ounces
of protein foods in a day, it is thought that sufficient
nitrogen will be provided the body for all ordinary
requirements. Convalescents, who need more building
material, should have slightly more, and care should
be taken that growing children should have, not more
protein foods necessarily, but that the protein should
be of the best type, such as is found in milk and eggs.
In order to help the housekeeper figure out how much
protein the family are getting, a table of half-ounce
protein portions has been devised. 1 This must not be
confused with the one hundred calorie portion, since
that gives total fuel value, while this gives the amount
of food which would contain approximately one half
ounce of protein. These are as follows:
One half Ounce Protein Portions
Milk, whole or skimmed, I pint
Eggs, 2
Cottage cheese, 1/4 cup, or 2 ounces
American cheese, 11/4 inch cube, or 2 ounces
Peanuts, shelled, 2 ounces
1 This table and the following ones are taken from Food and the War, published
by the United States Food Administration, 1918.
246 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Lean meat, without bone, 21/4 ounces,
or a piece 2 x 2 x 3/4 in.
Fish, a similar piece
Beans, dried, cooked, 11/2 cups
Cereal, cooked, 2 1/3 to 3 cups
Bread, 6 slices, 3 1/2 X3x 1/2 in.
In order to get two and a half to three ounces of
protein a day, five or six of these portions should be
included in the course of the day's meals.
Sulphur and phosphorus are both essential ingredi-
ents of all body protein, and occur in foods wherever
Other sub- nitrogen is found. Phosphorus is also
stances needed found in other foods, so that if the protein
content of our food is sufficient, these will be also.
The body must also have certain mineral salts in
order to keep it in good condition. The iron needed by
the blood and entering into the structure of all active
cells is found in egg-yolks, green vegetables, especially
spinach, and meats. It is thought that 15 milligrams
of iron are required daily. Social workers find that
among the poor the diet is apt to lack iron more than
any other constituent. The following list shows por-
tions of food each of which contains approximately
two milligrams of iron, so that seven and a half of
these portions should be used daily:
Portions containing Two Milligrams Iron
White flour, 200 grams, enough for 3/4 pound bread
Graham flour, 40 grams, or 2 medium slices of bread
Egg-yolk, 22 grams, or from I 1/2 to 2 eggs
Lean meat, 50 grams, about 2 ounces
Spinach, raw, 2 ounces, cooked, about 1/3 cup
String beans, a little over 1/3 pound, about 11/4 cups
MEASUREMENT OF FOOD VALUES 247
Potato, i good-sized
Sweet potato, almost I pound
Oranges, 4 large
Milk, 8 10 grams, almost I quart
Another mineral which is very important for the
growth of bones and teeth is calcium. The chief source
of calcium in the diet is milk but it is also found to
some extent in other foods. The body's daily require-
ment for calcium is 0.67 gram. This is found in the
following foods:
Portions containing Total Calcium Requirement for One Day
Milk, less than 11/4 pints
Cheese, 21/2 ounces
White flour, over 7 pounds
Beef, 21 pounds
Turnips, 21/3 pounds
Carrots, 21/2 pounds
The other chemical elements necessary for the
proper health and growth of the body are found in
fruits and green vegetables; so also are the "vitamine"
substances essential for growth. If this class of foods
is well represented in the diet, together with a variety
of other foods, all these substances will be provided in
sufficient amounts.
CHAPTER XVI
THE MAKING OF MENUS
IN these times of high prices the all-absorbing question
is how to reduce the H.C.L., or the high cost of living.
It necessitates a careful study of the wise
Cost of food ,. ., . . , J ,
distribution of money and the amount
that should be spent for food. Since an adequate quan-
tity of nourishing food is absolutely necessary for the
maintenance of health and efficiency of the family, the
proportion of the income to be devoted to food is far
higher to-day than it was some years ago when budgets
were first made out on a percentage basis. In an article
in the Journal of the American Medical Association for
February 2, 1918, it was stated that "A reasonably
satisfactory diet, . . . could not, at prices prevailing a
few months ago, be purchased by a family of average
size for less than ten cents a thousand calories and in
most instances for not less than twelve cents." In order
then for a man to obtain the 3000 calories he needs, he
would have to spend at the very least thirty cents a
day and he would be doing well if he could get it under
thirty-five.
The following recommendations for low-cost diets
are made by one organization:
1. Spend from one fourth to one third of food money for
breads, cereals, macaroni, and rice.
2. Buy at least from one third to one half quart of milk
a day for each member of the family.
3. Spend as much for vegetables and fruits together as
THE MAKING OF MENUS 249
you do for milk. If you use one half quart of milk for
each member of the family, this may not always be
possible, then spend as much for vegetables and fruits
as one third quart of milk a day per person would
cost.
4. Spend not more for meat and eggs than for vegetables
and fruit. The amount spent for meat may decrease as
the amount spent for milk increases.
In counting the cost of food as served, the amount
of work required for its preparation must be considered
as well as the actual cost of materials. It may some-
times be well for a busy mother to put more money
into food purchased which would require less time in
preparation, so that she may be able to enjoy the
meal with her family, instead of being so over-fatigued
by the cooking that she is neither a good companion
for her children nor in fit condition to eat the meal
herself.
The ideal division of three dollars spent for food
might be as follows:
Meat and fish O.6o
Fats and sweets 50
Fruit and vegetables 60
Cereals 5O--3O
Milk 60
Eggs I5-.25
Other things 05- .25
(These figures are based on actual figures of the money spent by
2000 families.)
As the cost of the dietary is decreased meat should
never be used more than once a day. Eggs can only be
used in cooking and then not often. Milk must be used
in quantity as in cream soups, sauces, puddings, etc.
250 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Pastry and other rich foods must be left out and plenty
of green vegetables and fruit put in. Oleomargarine
must be used instead of butter and skimmed milk
instead of whole.
In order that it may be readily seen whether all the
necessary food constituents are present in the daily
Five food diet, food substances are grouped con-
groups veniently into five classes based upon
their chemical composition:
1. Mineral salt group: Fruits and vegetables
2. Protein group: Meat, milk, eggs, fish, etc.
3. Starch group: Cereals and breadstuffs
4. Fat group: Butter, oils, and other fats
5. Sugar group: Sugar, jellies, jams, dried fruits, etc.
The first two of these groups provide the materials
out of which the body is built; the other three are
primarily heat- and energy-producing foods. In plan-
ning the meals for every day we must see that each
group is well represented in each day's diet, although
not necessarily in each meal. We must also make sure
that the quantity of food, especially from the energy-
yielding groups (Nos. 3, 4, and 5) , should vary with
the type of work of the different members of the fam-
ily. The one who is doing the heaviest muscular work
should have the largest serving of the macaroni and
cheese while the one who is sitting indoors all day
should eat lightly of this dish and be content with the
vegetable. Groups I and 3, the vegetables and the
starchy foods, should be used freely as a basis for the
diet, while the other groups should be used to give
variety to the meal. It is not necessary to have many
dishes, but we must make sure that the ones we do have
THE MAKING OF MENUS 251
represent different groups of foods. Do not serve boiled
rice and spaghetti at the same meal. In substituting
one food for another be sure to see that the substitute
food belongs to the same group as the one to be sub-
stituted. For instance, when butter is very high, it
should properly be replaced by oleomargarine or
drippings rather than by jam or molasses. In the same
way green vegetables can be replaced in the winter
time by root vegetables and not by rice nor macaroni.
The man who requires 3000 calories a day because of
his moderate work, might divide it up as follows:
Richer and more Plainer and Cheaper
Expensive Diet Diet
Vegetables and fruits from 2 1/2 Ibs. down to I 1/2 Ibs.
Milk 8 oz. 8 oz.
Meat and eggs, cheese, etc. . . .from 14 oz. down to 6 oz.
(Use 2 oz. less for every additional 1/2 pt. of milk)
Cereals from 8 oz. up to 16 oz.
Sweets from 3 oz. down to I 1/2 oz.
Fats from 3 oz. down to I 1/2 oz.
A moderately active woman should use four fifths of
this quantity.
The distribution of the total number of calories into
meals for each day should be done so as to promote
digestibility and satisfaction. Digestion is Division of
better on a mixed diet, but the activity of food into
the individual should be taken into con- meals
sideration. A laboring man who has an hour for his
dinner in the middle of the day can handle easily a
substantial meal with its cheese or pork or beans be-
cause he has time to rest before continuing his physi-
cal exertions. On the other hand a professional or
business man usually takes as short a time as possible
for his lunch and hurries back immediately to his desk.
252 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
For this reason his lunch should be light and should
be made up of such foods as can be digested without
effort. Cereal and fruit with a glass of milk make a
very good lunch for a busy man, while pastry, dough-
nuts, and other forms of rich food should always be
avoided.
When the life of the individual is knov/n, regularity
of meal hours should be carefully maintained and the
quantity of food taken at each meal should be approxi-
mately the same, day after day. It is customary to
divide the total amount of food needed in the twenty-
four hours into three meals, two of which are compara-
tively light and the third heavy. Whether the heavy
meal is taken in the middle of the day or at night, it
should contain about half of the total number of calo-
ries needed for the day. The other two meals, breakfast
and lunch or supper, would then each contain about
a quarter of the number. For instance, if 2400 calories
is the amount required, breakfast would have 600,
luncheon 600, and dinner 1200. For many people, how-
ever, it is more satisfactory to have their food more
evenly divided in the meals. In this case each meal
would contain about 800 calories or a third of the total.
Others find two meals a day very satisfactory, and still
others find it necessary to take their food in smaller
quantities at more frequent intervals. Experience
must determine which is best.
Each meal should be a unit in itself, but at the same
time the meals should be planned for several days at a
Variety time, so as to avoid repetition and uneven-
essential ness o f quantity. It might be possible to
obtain from oatmeal and macaroni alone a good part
of the food elements necessary, but a meal consisting
THE MAKING OF MENUS 253
of these two foods and nothing else would be unsatis-
factory. Variety stimulates the appetite. It is also well
to consider the harmonious blending of flavor, color,
texture, and temperature of foods. It is more satisfac-
tory on a cold day to begin a meal with a hot dish such
as soup instead of chilled grapefruit. So also we would
not like to repeat similar flavors in the same meal. If
we serve a tomato bisque soup, a tomato sauce with
the meat course or a tomato salad is to be avoided.
There are some dishes which seem to go together natu-
rally, such as peas with lamb chops, currant jelly with
venison, cheese with cold apple pie, and bacon with
liver. Some other dishes, which we find in constant use,
however, are not such wise combinations as these. In
chicken or lobster salad we have so much fat in con-
nection with protein material that the salad is difficult
to digest. The same is true with bacon and eggs. Grid-
dle cakes also as usually eaten with a large amount of
butter and syrup are not a food for a person with a
delicate digestion, since the starch is so rapidly cooked
that it is not cooked thoroughly.
Breakfast varies in heartiness with the habits of the
family, but customarily is practically the same, morn-
ing after morning, in the same family. Where there are
school-children, it is important to see ,
_ . . Breakfast
that they start on in the morning with a
suitable breakfast eaten without haste or worry. The
simplest breakfast is known as the Continental one,
which consists merely of toast or hot bread and a hot
drink, tea coffee, or cocoa. To this fruit is frequently
added, making a very satisfactory breakfast for an
adult who does not expect to have a busy morning.
For busier people, however, a dish of cereal should be
254 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
added to this breakfast. The cereal by rights should
make up the main part of the meal for adults as well
as for children. If the third group, the starch one, is
well represented and is eaten, as is usually the case,
with milk or cream, no other form of protein food is
necessary at breakfast. We should have our five groups
represented, fruit from the first, milk from the second,
cereal and toast or breadstuffs from the third, butter
on the toast and cream on the cereal from the fourth,
and the fifth, which might be easily omitted, is usu-
ally present in the sweetening of the coffee or cocoa
and is also represented in the fruit. If eggs can be af-
forded, they are a pleasing way of introducing more
building material for growing children, but are not ab-
solutely necessary if a glass of milk is drunk and a big
dish of cereal is eaten.
Americans are very apt to err on the size of their
breakfast. There are many men like the one who in-
sisted that he ate a light breakfast, and when asked
what it usually was, said, "Fruit to begin with, then a
dish of cereal with cream, then a chop or two or a piece
of steak with toast or hot muffins and coffee, and, oh,
yes, usually some griddle cakes or waffles to end off
with." Such a man would certainly need to walk to his
office before starting in with a hard day's work, but the
man who can afford such a breakfast is apt to ride to
town in his limousine and then wonders why he has
dyspepsia or bilious attacks.
The other light meal of the day, whether it is
luncheon or supper, is usually the meal in which left-
Luncheon overs are used. Here again group three, or
and supper the starchy foods, may be the basis if there
is plenty of variety in the other meals. There are many
THE MAKING OF MENUS 255
forms of cereals which can be used to give a variety
and not resemble breakfast. Boiled rice, served either
with cream and sugar, with maple syrup, or with
maple sugar, makes a good basis for such a meal. So
also would a large dish of creamed macaroni and
spaghetti with or without cheese, and varied some-
times by being made with tomato instead of milk.
Fried cornmeal mush, French toast, and even griddle
cakes or waffles might be used occasionally for this
meal for the older young people and adults. They
would, of course, not be given to children. Other dishes
which may well find a place at this meal are creamed
soups, hearty salads, cheese dishes, nut loaves, or stuffed
eggs when used with fresh greens or fruit and plenty
of breadstuff's. If milk is introduced in some form or
other at this meal either as soup or in the scalloped
dish or in the pudding, we should be quite satisfied that
the boys and girls coming from school were getting a
suitable lunch.
The hearty meal of the day, whether at noon or at
night, is usually made up of all five groups. The prob-
lem is more difficult to handle in those
families where the school-children should
have their hearty meal in the middle of the day and
the busy father of the family should have his at night.
It really amounts to serving two dinners a day, al-
though by a judicious use of cold meat, together with
plenty of hot dishes for the children at noon, and by
putting salads instead of a heavy dessert with the
roast at night, it can be worked out satisfactorily for
both. It is not necessary to have many dishes, as all
the groups may be represented in four dishes or even
less. This is the meal at which it is customary to serve
256 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
meat, but other protein foods, fish, cheese, or the pulses,
might easily be used to take its place occasionally. The
starch group is present in the form of potato, macaroni,
rice, and breadstuffs. One green vegetable is usually
served but it would be well to add another or a simple
salad. If fruit is used for dessert as well, the mineral
salt group would be well represented. The other two
groups are found in the oil on the salad, in the gravy
with the meat, and in the pudding or other sweet dish
that is used for dessert. There is usually enough fat
served in one form or another at dinner so that it is
not necessary to have butter on the table at this
meal.
There are many combinations which can be used as
the hearty dish for dinner in which two or more groups
may be represented. Such a dish would be a fish or
clam chowder, where starches, protein foods, and some
fat are all combined. This should then be served with
food from the mineral salt group, such as salads or
fruit, and some sweet. Another such dish would be an
Irish stew where potatoes and vegetables are com-
bined with the meat. So also there are many varia-
tions that can be made in a casserole or baking-dish
where a starch (rice, macaroni or cornmeal) is com-
bined with vegetables, usually tomato, but almost any
vegetable might answer the purpose, together with a
little fish or meat or cheese. If the flavor is enjoyed, a
slice or two of bacon can be laid on the top, which will
crisp up in the oven and add fat to the dish. Such a
dish may easily be prepared in the morning and slipped
into the oven a half or three quarters of an hour before
dinner-time, thus greatly relieving the task of prepar-
ing dinner and permitting the home-maker to be out
THE MAKING OF MENUS 257
of the house all the afternoon. It also does away with
the necessity of having many disagreeable cooking
dishes to wash and makes the dinner a very simple one
to serve. In these days of the high cost of labor, it is
well to become accustomed to using all such means of
saving time and energy.
Since breakfast is so much a matter of routine and
since luncheon can be so readily made up from left-
overs or along lines already discussed, we will simply
add a few combinations which would be suitable for
the hearty meal of the day. Some of these are typical
of meals that are in constant use.
i
Spaghetti, macaroni, or rice cooked with tomato, onion,
green pepper; and cheese
Bread and butter
Fruit and gingerbread
2
Cow peas boiled with pork Boiled rice
Green vegetable or vegetable salad
Honey, maple sugar, or date sandwiches
3
Baked beans and brown bread
Tomato jelly salad
Tart apple sauce and cookies
4
Fish chowder
Sliced tomatoes
Apple pie
Cheese
258 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
5
Fowl en casserole
Baked potato Spinach
Chocolate cornstarch pudding
Cookies
6
Pot roast
Potatoes Boiled onions
Prunes and hermits
7
Corn, tomato, and cheese on toast
Potato salad with boiled dressing
Jam or stewed fruit
8
Baked fish
Boiled rice Scalloped corn
Apple tapioca
9
Salt codfish hash
Vegetable Nut bread
Banana salad
10
Meat balls
Scalloped rice Fried onions
Lemon jelly
II
Cream of celery soup
Chicken en casserole
Tomato salad Graham muffins
Ice cream
Coffee Cake
THE MAKING OF MENUS 259
12
Vegetable soup
Scalloped shrimps
Baked stuffed potato Spinach
Rye muffins
Fruit cup Coffee
13
Chicken broth
Green pepper with cow peas
Tomato sauce
Baked potato
Waldorf salad Raised rye muffins
Cantaloupe
Coffee
14
Tomato bisque
Lentil timbale Cauliflower au gratin
Lettuce salad Corn muffins
Baked apple
Coffee
CHAPTER XVII
FOOD FOR INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN
MOTHER'S milk is always to be preferred for infants
whenever it is possible. Children who have this start in
Mother's life have a far better chance for health and
milk best normal growth than those that are arti-
ficially fed. Statistics gathered by social workers and
hospitals show that the death-rate among children
under a year old is lower for breast-fed babies than for
bottle-fed. Seven die in every one hundred the first
year of breast-fed babies while there is an average of
thirty in every one hundred of the bottle-fed. If our
young girls of all classes could be taught how important
for the health of their children is the ability to feed
them properly, they would take more pains in the
right training and condition of their own bodies so that
they might be able in later years to perform this
function.
There are certain conditions which tend towards
successful nursing and others which must be carefully
Conditions avoided. A nursing mother should always
affecting avoid over-fatigue, worry, and undue ex-
breast feeding citement> she should also be careful to
eat only such food as is readily digestible; she should
have plenty of fresh air, regular exercise, meals of
wholesome, nourishing food at regular hours, and
plenty of water to drink between meals. Tea and coffee
are not wise foods at any time and if a nursing mother
wants to have a quiet, unexcitable baby, she ought
INFANTS AND YOUNG CPIILDREN 261
never to take them during the period she is nursing the
baby. She would of course not drink any alcoholic bev-
erages and would be a little careful about the acidity
of the food that she eats. (On the whole, however, food
that does not disagree with her she can be quite sure
will not be likely to upset the baby.) She should be
very careful not to do too hard work but it is well if
she can have a pleasurable occupation and some diver-
sion of a simple kind, avoiding excitement. She also
needs plenty of sleep. If her nights are disturbed
by the baby, she should plan to take a nap during the
day-time when the baby is asleep. It is also important
that she should have a regular schedule of hours for
feeding the baby and should keep strictly to these
hours whether the baby cries between times or not.
This is necessary not only for the health of the baby
but also for her own supply of milk, since the milk
glands, like all other glands in the body, perform their
function better on a regular demand.
If a mother is so unfortunate that she cannot have
the privilege of nursing her own baby, she must use
some substitute for her milk. Since there Modifying
is no food that is exactly like mother's cow's milk
milk, the only thing that can be done is to take the
food the nearest like it that we have, cow's milk, and
modify it by various ways in order to make it as much
like mother's milk as possible. This modification is
based on the chemical analysis of the two milks. Be-
cause mother's milk contains more fat and more sugar
than cow's milk, it is customary usually to take the
top of the bottle of milk after it has stood some hours,
dilute this with boiled water to the required strength,
and then add milk sugar and limewater. Milk to be
262 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
modified in this way should of course be the best pos-
sible obtainable. The whole process must be done under
clean conditions with utensils that are not used for
any other purpose. These utensils should be carefully
washed, scalded, and dried with a clean towel every
day after the baby's bottles are fixed. The exact for-
mula to be used for the baby varies with the age of the
child, and with the wishes of the doctor. Mother's milk
is adjusted by nature to suit the varying demands of
the growing infant, while modified milk must be con-
tinually increased in strength as the child grows. Dif-
ferent children's specialists use different formulae for
modifying milk and these can be found in such books
as Dr. Holt's Care of the Baby, Dr. Kerley's Short Talks
with Young Mothers, and Dr. Richard Smith's The
Baby's First Two Years. If artificial feeding must be
resorted to, it is well to avoid all proprietary foods,
since they usually contain starch which is not easily
digested by the young infant.
After the child is six months old, orange juice may
usually be given to the infant from a spoon a half hour
Other foods before the morning feeding. Barley water
for infants mav De substituted for the boiled water
in the bottles at the same period. The infant, at a very
early stage, should be taught to take plain boiled
water between feedings from a bottle even if he is
breast-fed. If he is accustomed to doing this, there
will be very little difficulty when it becomes necessary
to wean him. For this reason also it may sometimes be
well to introduce at least one bottle of milk a day along
about the fourth or fifth month in order to supplement
the mother's milk and to get the child accustomed to
taking milk from a bottle. The mother who can nurse
INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN 263
her baby unaided for eight months is doing very well
indeed. Even if she can only do it four or five months,
she has given the child a good start in life.
It is customary with doctors to-day to put the babies
very early on a schedule of feeding of three-hour inter-
vals. These may be arranged conveniently Regular
at the following hours: six, nine, twelve, feeding hours
three, and six. During the 6arly months the child is
also given another feeding about ten and then should
go until six in the morning without any more. A child
that is established on a definite schedule closely ad-
hered to by the mother, soon becomes accustomed to
it and is very easy to take care of. As the child becomes
older these intervals will be found to be too close ; the
child will not be hungry enough to take all the food it
should at each feeding. When this point is reached,
which will vary with different children, somewhere
about the ninth month, the schedule should be changed
to a four-hour one. The feeding hours will then be six,
ten, two, six, and ten. If a child is gaining steadily and
sleeping well, the ten o'clock feeding at night may
safely be omitted. These changes, however, should only
be carried out under the advice of the physician in
charge.
It must be kept in mind that the digestive powers
of the infant develop very gradually, so we must in-
crease the kind and the quantity of the Cereal gruels
food slowly to meet this development. added
New foods should be introduced into the diet, one at
a time, and in small quantities to begin with. Up to the
time a child is five years old milk remains the staple
of the diet. He should have from three cups to a quart
daily, care being always taken to have it clean and
264 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
fresh. Cereal is the next food to be added to the child's
diet. This is used in the form of gruel for some months
mixed with the milk, then it can be used in the form of
a cereal jelly where the very thoroughly cooked mush
is strained to remove the husks. This is served with
milk. Later, as the child grows older, he can be given
the mush unstrained. For this purpose oatmeal can be
varied with cream of wheat, wheatena, pettijohn's,
rice, or shredded wheat. The last is best used by pour-
ing boiling water on it first to soften it before adding
the milk.
Milk and cereal should be the basis of a child's diet
until he is two years old, although other foods can be
Other additions added to give variety. An egg may be used
to the diet occasionally, though never more than one
a day, either in cooking, as in the form of custard, or
boiled. To the orange juice already in use, other fruit
juices may be added and even the strained pulp of
prunes or apples. The fruit should be mostly cooked,
although the raw fruit of the fleshy kinds, such as
peaches and pears, occasionally will not harm if they
are thoroughly ripe. No bananas should be given raw
to a child, although they may be used steamed or
baked. A green vegetable should be given in the mid-
dle of every day. It should be strained at first but can
later be given cut up fine. The vegetables that are the
best to begin with are the mild ones, such as spinach,
peas, green beans, asparagus tips, etc. A child should
be encouraged to eat hard breadstuffs, such as the
crust of the bread and zwieback, for the good of his
teeth. He should never be allowed to have fresh bread
or hot biscuits. Between the ages of three and five a
child may be given a little meat, but never more than
INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN 265
once a day, and never any pork products except ba-
con. It is well to vary the meat by using in its place
the white fish such as cod and haddock. If children
are allowed to eat a good deal of meat they will not
eat the amount of cereal and milk which they ought
to, because the meat has so much more flavor and
is better liked. Never give fried food of any kind to
the child, especially fried potatoes.
There is no harm in keeping the child on a fairly
uniform diet. For this reason it is better that he should
have his meals away from the family Good habits
where there will be no temptation to give fonned earf y
him tastes of the food which the family is having. If he
does not know what more elaborate food tastes like,
he will have no desire for it. It is very essential that he
should have his meals at regular intervals and that he
should be taught from the very beginning to eat
everything that is placed before him. A child develops
whims and fancies very quickly and if these are al-
lowed to grow he will become a nuisance to himself
and to others. It should always be taken as a matter
of course that what he is given to eat must be eaten
without any question on his part. If the mother knows
that a certain food is distasteful to the child, she should
only give him a very small amount of that food at a
time, say only a teaspoonful, but all that she gives
him should be eaten before he is allowed to have his
dessert. It is only by establishing such habits early
that there will be any comfort to be had in later years.
Good table manners should also be established in
early years. A child learns more through imitation
than through precept, although the mother has to keep
constant watch over the size of the mouthfuls taken
266 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and the way the food is chewed. If a child does not
chew his food thoroughly it will not be properly di-
gested and he cannot get full value from it.
A child at this period of from two to five should be
having his food in three regular meals a day with a
Food for child ^S nt lunch in the middle of the morning.
2 to 5 years The time for these may vary with the
habits of the household but if it is possible,
it is well that breakfast should be from half-past seven
to eight, dinner at half-past twelve or one, and supper
from five to half -past. His breakfast should consist of
the juice of an orange or some other fruit, a good-sized
dish of cooked cereal with top milk on it, a soft-boiled
egg, a slice of buttered toast and a glass of milk. He
should have another glass of milk and a piece of bread
and butter between half -past ten and eleven. For
dinner he could have a broth made from mutton or
beef in which rice or barley has been cooked, or he
could have a small piece of rare beefsteak, the heart
of a chop, or a little white fish. With this he could have
a baked potato or boiled rice or macaroni and a vege-
table, and for dessert he could have the inside of a
baked apple, apple sauce, or a pudding, such as baked
custard, a simple rice pudding, bread pudding, or a
thoroughly cooked, plain cornstarch pudding. He could
also have fruit jelly served with cream or a simple ice
cream. For supper he should again have a dish of
cereal and milk as a basis. With this he could have
stewed prunes or apple sauce or baked apples if he has
not had them at noon. He could also have a cup of
weak cocoa, a slice of bread and butter, a plain cooky,
or a piece of simple cake. He should never have fried
foods nor rich foods of any sort.
INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN 267
If it is desirable for the child to have a piece of candy
as a reward of merit, which frequently is a far better
scheme than punishment, this may best be given im-
mediately after breakfast or dinner. It should never
be given between meals. No food of any kind, in fact,
should be allowed except at the regular meal hours.
If a child has plenty of the right kind of food at regular
intervals he does not want anything else to eat. If,
however, he is really hungry, he may safely be given a
plain piece of bread. It is not often that he is hungry
enough for this. What he wants is a cooky or the jam
on his bread which would spoil his appetite for his
regular meals.
DIET FOR CHILD
At 12 months
4 meals at 6, 10, 2, 6, or similar convenient hours.
(1) I or 2 ounces of juice of sweet orange, or pulp of 6
stewed prunes.
8 ounces of milk.
3 or 4 ounces of well-cooked and strained cereal (fa-
rina, cream of wheat, oatmeal, barley, rice, or arrow-
root). Salt to taste. Sugar is not necessary.
(2) 8 ounces of milk, with zwieback, plain crackers, stale
bread, or toast.
(3) 4 ounces of broth; beef, mutton, or chicken with I or 2
tablespoons of well-cooked rice or barley, or 2 ounces
of beef juice.
8 ounces of milk.
Apple sauce, pulp of baked apple, or prune juice, if
necessary for bowels.
(4) 3 or 4 ounces of cereal, as at breakfast.
8 or 10 ounces of milk.
13 months add macaroni and spaghetti, alternating with
rice at the 2 P.M. meal.
268 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
15 to 1 6 months add soft-boiled eggs (2 or 3 a week). Best
given at 2 P.M. in place of the broth or beef juice.
Add thoroughly baked potato, alternating with rice,
macaroni, or spaghetti at 2 P.M. Add small amount of
butter on bread or potato.
Stop straining the cereals.
2 tablespoons= i ounce.
I glass =8 ounces.
At 18 months
Breakfast Juice of I sweet orange, or
Pulp of 6 stewed prunes.
Cereal (cream of wheat, oatmeal, farina, barley, arrow-
root, rice, etc.)
Milk, I glass.
Stale bread or toast, and butter.
Lunch Milk, I glass.
Stale bread, or toast, or plain crackers.
Dinner Broth, or minced or scraped meat, or soft-boiled
egg-
Boiled rice, or spaghetti, or macaroni, or baked potato.
Stewed celery, or stewed lettuce. Well-cooked and strained
spinach, or carrots, fresh peas, and string beans.
Stale bread, or toast, or plain crackers and butter.
Milk, I glass.
Cooked apple, or stewed prunes, without the skins, if
needed for constipation, or
Simple pudding i.e., rice, bread, tapioca, custard,
junket, and blanc mange.
Supper Cereal (as at breakfast), or bread and milk.
Glass of milk.
Stale bread, or toast, and butter.
Cooked fruit, unless given at dinner.
INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN 269
SAMPLE MENU FOR CHILD TWO TO FOUR YEARS OLD
7 A.M. 4 tablespoons orange juice, or
juice and pulp 4 prunes
4 tablespoons oatmeal
2 slices bread
i teaspoon butter
IO ounces milk
IO A.M. 8 ounces milk
I cracker
i P.M. i egg or small portion boiled cod or haddock
I medium baked potato
I 1/2 tablespoons spinach
1 slice bread
1/2 teaspoonful butter
2 tablespoons junket
5.30 P.M. 4 tablespoons boiled rice
2 slices bread
1 teaspoon butter
2 tablespoons apple sauce
LIST OF FOODS ALLOWED A CHILD TWO TO FOUR
YEARS OLD
Milk: This is the principal article of diet.
Fruits :
Baked apples Oranges
Apple sauce Stewed pears
Stewed prunes Baked pears
Stewed peaches
Cereals :
Oatmeal Wheat germ
Pettijohn Samp
Cream of wheat Germea
Wheatena . Malt Breakfast Food
Quaker Oats . Farina
270 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Ralston Hominy
Cracked wheat
White vegetables:
Potato, baked Macaroni
Rice Spaghetti
Green vegetables:
String beans Spinach
Asparagus Beet greens
Lettuce Green peas
Celery, stewed Beets
Carrots Swiss chard
Bread:
Stale bread (white, whole wheat, graham, oatmeal,
rye, or corn) with butter
Crackers
Desserts :
Junket Cooked fruit Simple jelly
Custard Sago Cornstarch pudding
Tapioca cream Rice pudding Bread pudding
Apple tapioca without raisins
Prune whip Ice cream
Protein Foods:
Eggs, soft-boiled or Mutton
coddled Steak
Fresh fish (boiled) Lamb (roast or chopped)
Roast chicken Roast beef
Boiled chicken
Soups :
Beef Vegetable
Creamed vegetable Chicken
Mutton
Fats:
Butter Olive oil
Oleomargarine
INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN 271
RECIPES FOR INFANT FOODS
Albumen Water
For each 4 ounces of water at 104 F., add the white of
one egg. Stir with a knife until dissolved. Do not beat or
shake. Strain through cheesecloth.
Barley Water
Take 2 level teaspoons of Robinson's or Brook's barley
flour, or any other standard brand, and mix with enough
water to make a paste. Add water up to one pint. Boil 20
minutes in a double boiler. Strain through two thicknesses
of cheesecloth. Add boiled water up to one pint to make
up what has boiled away.
Beef Juice
Partially broil on both sides 1/2 pound of the top of the
round. Cut in small pieces and squeeze out the juice, using
a meat-press or a wooden lemon-squeezer. Add a pinch of
salt. 1/2 pound of beef makes 2 ounces of beef juice.
Beef, Scraped
Scrape a piece of round steak with a knife and then broil
very slightly. The meat is practically free from the con-
necting fiber and is better than when minced.
Broth
Put I pound of the meat in I pint of cold water. Add a
pinch of salt. Let stand 1/2 hour. Cook slowly for 3 or 4
hours. Do NOT LET IT BOIL. Strain through 2 thicknesses of
cheesecloth. Cool. Remove and discard all the fat.
Coddled Egg
Put the egg into boiling water and remove immediately
from the fire, or set it back on the stove. Cover and let it
stand for six or seven minutes. The white of the egg should
be soft and not liquid.
272 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
Gruel
This may be either barley or oatmeal. Use either Robin-
son's or Brook's barley or Robinson's oatmeal (groats),
or any other standard brand. Take 3 tablespoons of the
flour, and mix with a little cold water to make a paste,
then add water to make one pint. Cook for 20 minutes in
a double boiler. Add a pinch of salt. Strain through two
thicknesses of cheesecloth. If the gruel is too thin, cook a
little longer; it should be thick enough to jelly when cold.
Junket
To I quart of milk, whole, heated to 105 F., add 4 tea-
spoons of liquid rennet. Add a pinch of salt and a teaspoon
of granulated sugar. Let stand in a cool place until the curd
forms. Strain off the liquid portion or whey. The curd is
junket.
It is also made by adding one junket tablet, dissolved in
a little cold milk, to the warm milk, and allowing it to stand.
Limewater
Put I teaspoon of unslaked lime in a bottle containing
I quart of boiled water, shake thoroughly, and allow it to
stand for 24 hours. The clear fluid at the top is limewater.
Prune Juice
Take 1/2 pound of prunes, wash, and soak in water over-
night. Cover with water and add I /2 teaspoon of sugar (no
lemon). Cook in a double boiler until the prunes are perfectly
tender. Strain through a cheesecloth to remove the pulp.
Whey
To I quart of skimmed milk heated to 105 F., add 4 tea-
spoons of liquid rennet. Let stand in a cool place until the
curd forms. Break up the curd with a fork and strain through
4 layers of cheesecloth or muslin. Heat the whey (the liquid
part) to 155 F. and allow it to cool gradually. Keep on ice.
One quart of milk makes 24 ounces of whey.
CHAPTER XVIII
FOOD FOR SCHOOL-CHILDREN
THIS period in the life of an individual from the time he
starts to school at five or six until he graduates from
college at twenty-one or twenty-two is
..... . . Good supply
one in which there is great activity both O f food nec-
of the body and of the mind. It is the ****** f T
period of growth in which the body goes
through great changes not only in building up the
bodily tissue itself but in the development which
eventually produces the adult man or women. During
this period the youth is more dependent on a regular
supply of food every day than is the adult. His activity
is so great that the supply of fuel must be constant
and steady. At the same time he must have a larger
proportion of those foods which contain the best
building material for body structure. This is particu-
larly important in the type of protein material, since
those proteins that are found in milk, eggs, and meat
are of greater value than those that are found in the
cereals and pulses.
There are certain signs betokening good health
which means a suitable diet. The first of these is a
steady gain in weight and height. A move- signs of good
ment is now on foot by the Federal Bureau health
of Education for the weighing of all school-children at
least twice during each year so as to keep track of the
gain in weight. Where this has already been done, it
has been found that a surprisingly large number of
274 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
our school-children are below weight according to the
standards set by the experts. Another sign of good
health is sound sleep and plenty of it. This must always
be taken in close connection with proper diet in order
to insure gain in weight. A child should also have a
reasonable appetite, not too large nor too small. The
lad who could and did eat eleven shredded wheat bis-
cuits for breakfast could hardly be said to have a
reasonable appetite. A child who is well and strong
will have a firm flesh and rosy skin, and will be gener-
ally good-natured.
The food should increase gradually in quantity as
the years go on and the body requirements become
The right greater and greater. The bulk of the diet
food should still consist largely of cereals,
vegetables, and fruit. These may be varied from day
to day but it is very important that no school-child
should be allowed to start off to school in the morning
without having eaten a substantial dish of cereal, pref-
erably of a cooked variety. Meat should be had in
moderate amount, seldom more than once a day, and
other foods such as fish and cheese may be substituted
for it. Milk should still be used; at least a pint a day
for the older children and three cups for the younger
ones. No tea, coffee, nor strong cocoa should be al-
lowed, especially during the high-school period when
girls in particular seem to have a craving for these.
It is to be remembered that these drinks are stimu-
lants and will have a harmful effect upon the organism
of a girl at just this time.
The young people should be encouraged to eat plenty
of vegetables and fruit. It would be well if fruit were
available for them between meals, as it would be of
FOOD FOR SCHOOL-CHILDREN 275
far greater benefit for them than would be the candy,
college ices, ice-cream sodas, or rich cake which are
constantly resorted to by the ever-hungry student.
Rich cake, pastry, and fried foods should be avoided
and candy can only safely be used immediately after
meals, not between meals.
During the adolescent period the young people are
very apt to show vagaries in their likes and dislikes
about their food. This is where early train- vagaries
ing will have its strong effect. If eating harmful
has always been considered a part of the day's busi-
ness to be carried out with a definite aim in mind,
that of building up strong, healthy bodies, very little
trouble will be met with at this time. If on the other
hand, the girl and boy have been allowed to pick and
choose pretty much as they pleased without respect
to the value of the foods themselves, they are quite
apt not to get the kind of food the body most requires
during this period of great growth. It requires great
care on the part of the homemaker to see that it is
impossible for the young people to have a one-sided
diet, even though they do not eat everything that is
served. This means careful planning so that the groups
of foods will be represented at the meal in more than
in just one form. Breadstuffs may be served in a va-
riety of ways so that the cereal content of the meal
will still be high. Cinnamon buns, date or raisin bread,
currant rolls, and other forms of bread may well be
used. Desserts may also be varied in such a way as
to avoid monotony and yet introduce valuable build-
ing material into the diet. Instead of serving an ordi-
nary rice pudding, it can sometimes be made with
chocolate, or with molasses, and apples baked in it,
276 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
and the much-despised cornstarch pudding can be
dressed up by being served with stewed figs, ginger,
and whipped cream, or peaches or other raw fruit. In
this way milk can be introduced into the diet un-
obtrusively.
From the time when the children can have their
heartiest meal at night with the rest of the family, the
The problem luncheon is always the biggest problem,
of lunch This is just as true in the colleges as it is
in the home where the children are still either in the
grammar school or in the high school. If the child has
to take his midday meal with him, just as much care
should be given to the planning of the lunch-box as
though the meal were to be eaten at home. All the food
groups should be represented in such form as can be
carried in a lunch-box and still be appetizing when
taken out several hours later. In order to protect the
food as much as possible, sandwiches and cake should
be carefully wrapped in paraffin paper. Little dishes
can be used to carry such foods as a baked custard or
a baked apple or even stewed prunes. By using a ther-
mos bottle soup or cocoa or even cold milk can be
taken to supplement the lunch in the box.
There are many fillings which can be put into the
sandwiches to provide protein or vegetable material.
Thinly sliced cold meat of different kinds, hard-boiled
eggs, cheese, the puree of pulses or peanut butter will
be of the first class, while lettuce, celery, sliced toma-
toes will be of the second. If a meat sandwich is taken,
lettuce can be taken separately, carefully washed and
wrapped in paraffin paper. There is more danger of
neglecting this important group of foods in the lunch-
box than any of the others. Fruit should be included
FOOD FOR SCHOOL-CHILDREN 277
every day, either as an apple or orange, or as a few
dates and figs. These latter will also provide the sweet
which is so greatly craved by young people. In making
sandwiches try to use a variety of breads as much as
possible, oatmeal or graham instead of white, for in
these the young people can obtain more iron and other
salts than they can from white bread.
Many of our preparatory and high schools which
have the long session are making it possible for the
boys and girls to have a hot meal at school. The school
This is, of course, the ideal way if these lunch
meals are carefully supervised. A choice of dishes
must be served; yet among this variety the dishes
should be so planned that it would be difficult for the
young people not to get the right kind of a dinner. A
soup of some sort, either on a milk basis or a rich broth
with vegetables, should be among the choice each day;
so should a hot dish of some kind, like macaroni and
cheese, stew, baked rice, and tomato. Some vegetable
either as such or as a salad should be present in the
menu, and a pudding and fruit as a choice for the des-
sert. From such a list it would be hard for a boy or a
girl not to get a suitable lunch.
The colleges have a little different problem. Most of
their young people return directly to work and are
allowed a comparatively short time to eat lunch. For
this reason the lunch must consist of such foods as can
be served quickly and will be easily digested. If a milk
dish is present in one course or another, it serves as a
good basis for this midday meal. This dish, whether it
is soup or a creamed dish or in the form of a dessert,
should be supplemented with attractive breadstuffs
and vegetables, either hot or as salad.
278 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
MENU FOR THE SCHOOL LUNCH-BOX
(1) Sandwiches: made of stale bread, preferably graham or
oatmeal, and filled with:
finely chopped boiled eggs, well but mildly seasoned;
a nut paste, as peanut butter softened with milk or
cream ;
a dried fruit paste, made of chopped dates or figs;
meat, thinly sliced or finely chopped and seasoned;
celery, chopped fine and mixed with salad dressing;
cream cheese and nuts;
American cheese grated and seasoned with tomato;
lettuce with mayonnaise ;
(2) Fruit: an orange or apple; also cooked fruit if it can be
carried, as apple sauce or baked apple, stewed prunes,
raisins, pears, peaches, etc. Tomatoes may take the
place of other fruit when liked.
(3) A sweet: as baked custard, plain cookies, sponge cake.
(4) Milk or fruit juice to drink if it can be carried.
RECIPES FOR THE LUNCH-BOX
COOKIES
1/2 cup butter 1/4 cup milk
I cup sugar 2 cups pastry flour
I egg 2 to 3 teaspoons baking-powder
Mix like cake. Put the dough on the ice to chill, use a
portion of it at a time and work quickly with little flour on
the molding board. Bake in a hot oven, watching constantly.
Cookies may be made plainer by increasing the amount of
milk, also the flour and baking-powder, or richer by omitting
the milk entirely and sprinkling with sugar before baking.
The dough may be divided into four parts and flavored
differently :
FOOD FOR SCHOOL-CHILDREN 279
To 1/4 add I teaspoon lemon or vanilla extract
To I /4 add I /2 cup dessicated or fresh cocoanut
To 1/4 add I ounce chocolate melted, or I 1/2 tablespoons
dry cocoa with a little flour, also vanilla
To 1/4 add I teaspoon mixed spices and 1/2 cup chopped
raisins, citron, or almonds.
Proportions for Mixed Spices
1/2 teaspoon cloves I teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon allspice 3 teaspoons cinnamon
I teaspoon mace
GINGER SNAPS
I cup butter 1/2 teaspoon soda
I cup sugar I tablespoon ginger
i cup N.O. molasses 3 cups flour (pastry)
I egg
Mix like cake, adding the flour sifted with the ginger and
soda last. Chill the dough, and roll out a portion of it at a
time. Bake in a hot oven, watching constantly.
MOLASSES COOKIES
1 cup butter I tablespoon ginger
2 cups molasses 1/2 teaspoon soda
I egg 3 teaspoons baking-powder
I tablespoon cinnamon 4 cups flour (pastry)
Soften butter and add to molasses, then add beaten egg
and I cup flour ; with the 2d cup of flour sift the ginger and
cinnamon, and with the 3d the soda. Add enough more
flour to make a soft dough. Toss on a floured board, pat
with a rolling-pin to 1/4 inch in thickness, cut out, and bake
in moderate oven.
280 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
PEANUT BUTTER JUMBLES
I cup granulated sugar i /2 teaspoon soda
1/2 cup sweet cream I teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup butter I egg
1 cup peanut butter I 3/4 cups flour
Salt
Mix peanut butter with the butter and sugar. Add egg
well beaten. Add cream and mix in the flour sifted with salt,
soda, and cream of tartar to make a stiff dough. Bake in a
very hot oven.
ROLLED OATS AND PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES
1/2 cup brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons peanut I teaspoon baking-powder
butter mixed with I egg
milk to make soft 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
and smooth 11/2 cups rolled oats, raw
Mix dry ingredients. Add the egg beaten and then peanut
butter. Drop from teaspoon on greased tin and bake quickly.
BARLEY COOKIES
3 tablespoons shortening
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 egg, well beaten
2 tablespoons milk
1 cup barley flour 1
2 teaspoons baking-powder f sifted together
I teaspoon cinnamon J
1/2 cup chopped raisins
Cream the shortening, add sugar and other ingredients in
order, and beat well. Drop from a teaspoon 2 inches apart,
on a greased sheet. Bake in a moderate oven about 12
minutes.
FOOD FOR SCHOOL-CHILDREN 281
SCOTTISH FANCIES OR ROLLED OATS WAFERS
i egg I cup rolled oats
1/2 cup sugar 1/3 teaspoon salt
2/3 tablespoon melted butter or 1/4 teaspoon vanilla
oleomargarine
Beat egg very light and then stir in remaining ingredients.
Drop mixture by teaspoonfuls on a thoroughly greased tin
sheet or inverted dripping-pan an inch apart. Spread into
circular shape with a case knife dipped in cold water, and
separate the bits of oats to make the wafer very thin when
cooked. Bake in a moderate oven until delicately browned.
Remove from pan quickly. For variety use 2/3 cup rolled
oats and fill cup with shredded cocoanut.
CHOCOLATE NUT COOKIES
1/2 cup corn syrup i teaspoon baking-powder
2 tablespoons strained honey I /2 teaspoon salt
2 squares chocolate I teaspoon vanilla
10 tablespoons rice flour i /2 cup chopped nut meats
4 tablespoons barley flour
Mix and drop by the spoonful on greased baking-sheets.
Bake 15 minutes.
CHAPTER XIX
FOOD FOR INVALIDS
IN China a doctor is engaged to keep the family well.
He would be greatly helped by some knowledge of
foods on the part of the mother of the family who plans
the meals, for just as much as a good diet is essential
for the maintenance of health, so one that is badly
planned causes the lowering of the power of resistance
of the body. This gives a chance for the disease germs
which are ever present around us to get a foothold in
the body and to develop into some serious condition.
Aside from this, improper food is often the direct
cause for much illness, whether of a serious kind or of
some trifling nature which is, however, sufficient to
lower working ability.
When the individual is sick and under the doctor's
care, the doctor's directions as to the food that must
Typical in- be eaten must be carried out implicitly,
valid diets jf ^ however, the nurse or the mother has a
certain understanding of the terms in use when speak-
ing of the kind of diet which can be given to the invalid,
she can be of great help to the doctor. There are three
such typical diets in common use in the hospitals to-
day. The first of these is known as the Fluid Diet. As
is shown by its name no solids are given, but all nour-
ishment is given in liquid form. Milk, of course, is the
basis of such a diet, alone or in various combinations
with eggs, gruels, and broths. Fruit drinks are also
included and the food value of these may also be
FOOD FOR INVALIDS 283
increased by the use of eggs. It is usual to give such
a diet in small quantities at frequent intervals.
The second is known as the Soft or Semi-Solid Diet.
This would include all foods in the fluid diet and the
simplest of solid foods, such as toasts, custards, whips,
souffles, gelatine dishes, and ice cream. All meat, fish,
and green vegetables are omitted.
The third diet is known as the Light or Convalescent
Diet. This diet is very similar to one that would be
given a healthy child, since the aim is the same in both
cases to provide such food as will build the body
without disturbing the digestion. Plenty of milk would
be used in this diet as well as in the others and would
be supplemented by the simpler meat dishes, well-
cooked cereals, baked potatoes, green vegetables,
fruits, and plain desserts. No fried food nor rich dishes
would be given to a convalescent any more than to a
child.
Since digestion is aided by the attractiveness with
which the meal is served, this point should be carefully
noted in the service for an invalid. The .
meals should be served at regular inter-
vals, the foods should be cooked as perfectly as possible,
and the whole served daintily on a tray covered with
fine linen and the best china used. It would stimulate
the appetite of the patient to have a little surprise on
the tray, either a single flower, a gift, or a looked-for
letter. It is never well to leave the invalid to eat his
meal by himself, since pleasant companionship also
tends to the better digestion of the food.
When one is first taken ill, fasting for two or three
days does no harm in the case of an adult, since there
is usually a sufficient supply of material in the body
284 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
which can be utilized in such an emergency. During this
Food requke- P er id the digestive tract would have a
ment in chance for a complete rest. If, however, the
illness is protracted, a sufficient amount
of food must be provided to supply the fuel for the
body activity. It was thought at one time that because
a person was lying in bed and not performing any ex-
ternal work that he did not need any food. This theory
is now just as obsolete as is the general bleeding of pa-
tients used some centuries ago. In studying a patient
with a respiration calorimeter it was found that a
healthy man of normal weight lying in bed for twenty-
four hours would require about 1850 calories just to
cover his internal muscular activity. In case of sickness
the individual may even require more than this to
overcome the wasting away of tissue due to bacterial
action. The knowledge of this fact has revolutionized
the feeding of patients suffering with long-time illnesses
especially with such fevers as typhoid.
FOOD FOR SLIGHT ILLNESSES
Many times an individual is slightly ill when it is not
necessary to call the doctor and yet when especial care
with the food would help towards rapid
Colds r YJ r
recovery. In the case of colds, for instance,
which are usually contracted because the individual is
slightly below par, the first thing to do is to maintain
a laxative diet of low fuel value for about twenty-four
hours. This means an increased quantity of fruits and
vegetables, no fats nor sugars, and a small amount of
starches. When the system has become cleared, this
diet should be followed by one that is high in such food
as will build up the strength of the body. Extra fats
FOOD FOR INVALIDS 285
should be used in the form of butter, cream, salad oil,
and bacon fat. Care of course should be taken to use
foods that are easily digested and not those that would
again clog up the system.
In those cases where the digestive tract itself is not
working properly it is well to avoid all food whatever
for a day or so, or to use only those foods Digestive
that are very light and easy to digest, such frouttes
as thoroughly dried toast and broths, particularly mut-
ton broth in which rice has been cooked. The diet may
then be gradually increased, beginning with the simple
foods of the semi-solid diet, avoiding sugars and rich
foods, and using fruits and vegetables very cautiously
since they are apt to be irritating to the intestinal
tract.
FOOD FOR SPECIAL DISEASES
Where we have a disease in which the patient must
be confined to the bed for several weeks, care must be
taken to prevent the wasting of the tissues Fevers, espe-
due both to the disease itself and to the ciaUv typhoid j
lack of food. The food given must be of an easily di-
gested sort. In the case of typhoid fever the seat of the
disease is the intestinal tract, so that the food given
must be of such a kind as can be largely digested in the
stomach and have very little waste to be dealt with by
the intestines. The best results have been obtained by
giving the patients milk the fuel value of which has
been increased by the addition of cream and milk
sugar. Broths are also given, cream soups, and fruit
juices in large quantities. The patient is fed at two-
hour intervals, and the total number of calories taken
at each feeding carefully measured. In this way it is
286 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
possible for a person to leave the hospital after a long
siege of typhoid weighing as much as he did when he
was brought in. The fearful emaciation which was
thought to be a part of typhoid fever is no longer
considered inevitable.
With tuberculosis we have a disease in which there
is a large wasting away of tissue. This must be counter-
balanced by an excess of food eaten. At
Tuberculosis , . . . .
the same time it is important not to upset
the digestive tract by this excess of food. It is custom-
ary to feed the patient as much as possible until he has
regained his normal weight. In order to maintain the
normal weight, it is then necessary that he should eat
a third more fuel value than would be his normal diet.
This is usually made up by the free use of milk, eggs,
and fats.
Diabetes is a disease which requires the constant
supervision of a physician but it is also one where the
health of the patient depends absolutely
upon the food which is eaten. This should
of course be regulated by the physician, but much can
be done by the patient himself if he understands the
situation. The cause of the disease is a loss on the part
of the body of the power of using carbohydrates, so
that sugar, instead of being burned up by the tissues for
energy, is carried in the blood and excreted in the urine.
This condition can be controlled by the food eaten.
The basis of a diet for such a patient should be protein
material and fats. Carbohydrates can only be used in
a restricted quantity, depending upon the extent to
which the disease has developed in the individual.
When the point of safety has been ascertained by a
study of the urine, the diet can then be kept within
FOOD FOR INVALIDS 287
that amount by a table of equivalents which can be
had from the doctor. The housekeeper must then make
up a variety of meals, using only the quantity of
starchy foods prescribed by the doctor.
There is a general disagreement among physicians as
to the exact cause of gout and rheumatism but it is
generally admitted that one of the effects Gout and
of them is an excess of uric acid in the rheumatism
blood. This is the acid that is formed in the process of
the utilization of protein foods. Hence usually gout has
been described as an aristocratic disease, the high liv-
ing and perhaps pretty steady drinking of the upper
classes producing this trouble in middle and later life.
To avoid these diseases those people who have a gouty
tendency should be careful not to eat an excess of
foods of all kinds, but particularly of protein foods.
Foods which tend to disturb the digestive system
should be avoided as should also those foods which
have a tendency to putrefaction and which cause
constipation. This reduces the diet to plain, wholesome
food, well chosen, thoroughly cooked, and used in mod-
erate amounts. Excess of food is, after all, the most im-
portant element of danger and one that is aggravated
if the food is rich.
RECIPES FOR INVALID DIETS
TOAST WATER
2 slices stale bread I cup boiling water
Cut stale bread in 1/3 inch slices and remove crusts. Put
in pan and bake in slow oven until thoroughly dried and well
browned. Break in small pieces, add boiling water, cover,
let stand one hour. Squeeze through cheesecloth. Season
288 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
with salt and serve hot or cold. It often proves efficient in
extreme cases of nausea.
LEMON WHEY
1/4 cup milk 2 teaspoons lemon juice
Add lemon juice to milk and let stand 5 minutes. Strain
through double thickness of cheesecloth.
SYRUP FOR FRUIT BEVERAGES
3/4 cup sugar 3/4 cup boiling water
Add sugar to boiling water and place on front of range.
Stir until sugar is dissolved, then let boil, without stirring,
twelve minutes. Cool and bottle.
LEMONADE
I 1/2 tablespoons syrup
2 tablespoons lemon juice 3/4 cup cold water
Mix syrup and lemon juice, and add cold water. Use a
glass lemon-squeezer or wooden drill for expressing juice,
to avoid extracting oil from rind, strain juice before using.
Soda water or Apollinaris may be used instead of part or
all of cold water.
EGG LEMONADE
I egg 2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon powdered sugar 2 teaspoons sherry
I /4 cup cold water 2 tablespoons crushed ice
Beat egg slightly, add sugar, water, lemon juice, and wine,
then strain over crushed ice. Wine may be omitted.
FLAXSEED LEMONADE
2 tablespoons flaxseed 2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cups boiling water Syrup
FOOD FOR INVALIDS 289
Pick over and wash flaxseed. Cover with boiling water,
and let simmer one hour. Strain, add lemon juice and syrup.
Serve hot or cold.
IRISH MOSS LEMONADE
1/8 cup Irish moss 2 tablespoons lemon juice
I cup cold water Sugar
KUMYSS
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons water
Cook to syrup, rinse pan with 1/2 cup water, put into
bowl with i quart milk, 1/8 cup compressed yeast made
smooth with part of the milk. Mix well ; fill bottles 3/4 full,
tie corks in. Stand bottles in refrigerator 3 days; lay them
down in refrigerator 5 days. Draw kumyss with a cham-
pagne top.
BOTTLED BEEF ESSENCE
I pound steak from top of round
Wipe steak, remove all fat, and cut in small pieces. Place
in canning jar, cover; place on trivet in kettle and surround
with cold water. Allow water to heat slowly, care being taken
not to have it reach a higher temperature than 130 F.
Let stand 2 hours; strain, and press the meat to obtain all
the juices. Salt to taste.
BOTTLED BEEF TEA
I pound steak from top of round
I pint cold water
Salt
Prepare the beef as for bottled beef essence. Soak 15
minutes in the water, and cook 3 hours same as bottled
beef essence. Strain and season. In reheating, care should
be taken not to coagulate the juices.
290 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
FROZEN BEEF TEA
Freeze beef tea to the consistency of a mush.
BROILED BEEF ESSENCE
1/2 pound steak from top of round (cut 3/4 inch thick).
Wipe steak, remove all fat, and place in heated broiler.
Broil 3 minutes over a clear fire, turning every 10 seconds to
prevent escape of juices. Put on a hot plate and cut in I 1/2
inch pieces ; gash each piece two or three times on each side.
Press out all the juice with a lemon-squeezer into a warm
bowl, set in a dish of hot water, care being taken that the
heat is not sufficient to coagulate juices. Salt the juice very
slightly. Remove the globules of fat. Serve by teaspoonfuls,
or, if solid food can be taken, the juice may be poured on
some dry, fresh-made toast.
BROILED BEEF TEA
Dilute broiled beef essence with water.
EGGNOGS
Egg Sugar Fluid Flavor
Plain: i 3/4 tb. 3/4 c. milk or cream I tb. brandy
Coffee: I I 1/2 tb. 6 tb. milk or cream 6 tb. strong coffee
Fruit: I 2 tb. 1/4 c. water 2 tb. fruit juice
1/4 c. chopped ice
Method: Beat egg well. Add sugar, beat again. Add remaining in-
gredients. Serve very cold in glass.
GRUELS
Flour Salt Boiling water Milk (scalded)
Barley flour, I tb. 1/4 1. 1/2 c. 1/2 c.
Rice flour, I tb. 1/4 1. 1/2 c. 1/2 c.
Farina, i tb. 1/4 1. 1/2 c. 1/2 c.
Oat flour, I tb. 1/4 t. 1/2 c. 1/2 c.
Cracker crumbs, 2 tb. 1/4 t. 1/2 c. 1/2 c.
1 These tables of recipes were taken from A Cook Book for Nurses, by Sarah C. Hill.
(Whitcomb and Barrows. Boston, 1907.)
FOOD FOR INVALIDS
291
Method: In top of double boiler mix the flour with cold water enough
to form a paste. Add the boiling water. Boil 2 or 3 minutes, then
set over lower part of double boiler to cook for 15 minutes, stirring
frequently. Add the salt and scalded milk, and serve in a hot cup
or bowl. The cracker gruel does not need to be mixed with cold
water nor cooked over hot water, but is sufficiently cooked by the
2 or 3 minutes boiling.
FARINACEOUS PUDDINGS
Plain:
Farinaceous
material
Milk
Egg
Sugar
Flavor
I tb. cornstarch
1/2 C.
i/a
2 tb.
Few drops
or I 1/2 tb.
white
vanilla, or
farina, or 2 t.
of I
I t. brandy,
arrowroot
or few thin
shavings of
lemon rind
:e: Same
1/2 C.
Same
Same
3/8 sq.
chocolate
Method: Mix the farinaceous material, sugar, and a few grains of salt
together. Add cold water to make a smooth thick paste. Add the
milk scalded. Cook until it thickens in double boiler, stirring occa-
sionally, for 15 minutes. Beat white of egg to a stiff froth. Add to
this the hot mixture gradually, beating all the time. Pour into a
mold, chill. Serve with a soft custard made with the yolk of the
egg-
TAPIOCA PUDDINGS
Flavor
Lemon rind
or 1/2 t.
vanilla
Same
To taste I apple, or
i peach or
1/4 c.
berries
Method: Soak pearl tapioca if used. Put tapioca in liquid in double
Cream :
Baked:
Coffee:
Fruit:
Tapioca
2 tb. minute or
I tb. pearl
i tb. minute or
pearl
2 tb. minute or
i tb. pearl
2 tb. pearl or
3 tb. minute
Fluid Egg Sugar
1/2 C. 1/2 I tb.
milk
1/2 c. 1/2 yolk I tb.
milk
1/2 c. 1/2 white 2 tb.
strong of i egg
coffee
I c. boil- To t<
ing water
292 FOOD FACTS FOR THE HOME-MAKER
boiler. Cook till transparent. Add egg-yolk, cook slightly. Add
white beaten stiff. Put in mold. Serve cold with cream or a fruit
sauce.
JELLIES
I t. granulated gelatine soaked in I tb. cold water.
Hot liquid Sugar Flavor
Lemon: 6 1/2 tb. boiling water 3 tb. I 1/2 tb. lemon juice
Orange: 3 1/2 tb. boiling water 2 1/2 tb. 3 tb. orange juice,
and 1/2 tb. lemon
juice
Coffee: 4 tb. boiling water I tb. 4 tb. strong coffee
Wine: 5 tb. boiling water 2 1/2 tb. 3 tb. wine,
1/2 tb. lemon juice
Grapefruit: 4 tb. boiling water 2 1/2 tb. 4 tb. grapefruit juice
IRISH MOSS BLANC MANGE
1/4 cup Irish moss 1/3 teaspoon vanilla
i 1/2 cups cold water Salt
I 3/4 cups milk
Pour cold water over moss and let stand 20 minutes. Pick
over moss; add to milk and cook in double boiler 15 to 20
minutes. Milk should be but very slightly thickened. Strain
and add salt and vanilla. Strain again into molds. Serve
with sugar and cream. Sea moss farina may be used in-
stead of Irish moss 2 teaspoons being sufficient to thicken
a pint of milk. A little sugar may be added if desired.
ABBREVIATIONS AND A TABLE
OF MEASURES
t. = teaspoon
tb. = tablespoon
c. = cup
pt. = pint
qt. = quart
3 teaspoons = I tablespoon, or 1/2 ounce
4 tablespoons =1/4 cup
8 tablespoons 1/2 cup
16 tablespoons = I cup, or 8 ounces
2 cups = i pint, or I pound
2 pints = I quart
All measures are level (the flour leveled with the back of
a knife to the edge of the spoon or cup).
Sift all dry ingredients before measuring.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
GENERAL REFERENCE BOOKS
UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION. Food and the War.
A textbook for college classes. Houghton Mifflin Com-
pany. 1918.
ROBERT HUTCHISON. Food and the Principles of Dietetics.
William Wood and Company. 1917.
W. H. JORDAN. Principles of Human Nutrition. The Mac-
millan Company. 1914.
VERNON KELLOGG and ALONZO E. TAYLOR. The Food
Problem. The Macmillan Company. 1917.
HELEN KINNE and ANNA M. COOLEY. Foods and Household
Management. The Macmillan Company. 1916.
MARY SWARTZ ROSE. Feeding the Family. The Macmillan
Company. 1917.
HENRY C. SHERMAN. Food Products. The Macmillan
Company. 1914.
HENRY C. SHERMAN. Chemistry of Foods and Nutrition. The
Macmillan Company. 1918.
FRANK HALL THORP. Outlines of Industrial Chemistry. The
Macmillan Company. 1905.
PAMPHLETS
W. O. ATWATER and A. P. BRYANT. The Chemical Composi-
tion of American Food Products. United States Depart-
ment of Agriculture, Office of Experiment Station, Bulle-
tin No. 28. 1906.
W. O. ATWATER. Principles of Nutrition and Nutritive Value
of Food. United States Department of Agriculture, Farm-
ers' Bulletin No. 142. 1917.
CAROLINE L. HUNT and H. W. ATWATER. I. What the Body
296 BIBLIOGRAPHY
Needs. II. Cereal Foods. III. Foods Rich in Protein. United
States Department of Agriculture. I. Farmers' Bulletin
No. 808. March, 1917. II. Farmers' Bulletin No. 817.
May, 1917. III. Farmers' Bulletin No. 824. July, 1917.
ANNA BARROWS. The Farm Kitchen as a Workshop. United
States Department of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin
No. 607. 1914.
E. T. WILSON. Modern Conveniences for the Farm Home.
United States Department of Agriculture, Farmers' Bul-
letin No. 270. 1916.
MARY HINMAN ABEL. Care of Food in the Home. United
States Department of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin
No. 375. 1916.
UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. Home-Made
Fireless Cookers and Their Use. Farmers' Bulletin No. 771.
1917.
BOOKS ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF
CHILDREN
CHARLES G. KERLEY. Short Talks with Young Mothers.
G. P. Putnam's Sons. 1919.
L. EMMETT HOLT. The Care and Feeding of Children.
D. Appleton & Company. 1918.
RICHARD SMITH. The Baby's First Two Years. Houghton
Mifflin Company. 1915.
PAMPHLETS ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF
CHILDREN
MARY SWARTZ ROSE. The Feeding of Young Children.
Teachers College Bulletin, Technical Bulletin No. 3.
January 14, 1911.
MARY SWARTZ ROSE. Food for School Boys and Girls.
Teachers College Bulletin, Technical Bulletin No. 23.
February 14, 1914.
BIBLIOGRAPHY 297
REPRINTED FROM THE PUBLIC HEALTH BULLETIN. Food for
Children from Two to Six Years Old. Massachusetts State
Department of Health. Volume 5. No. 2. 1918.
CAROLINE L. HUNT. Food for Young Children. United States
Department of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 171.
June, 1917.
LUCY H. GILLETT. Food Allowances for Healthy Children.
Bureau of Food Supply, A.I.C.P., New York City. Pub-
lication No. 115.
CAROLINE L. HUNT. School Lunches. United States Depart-
ment of Agriculture. Farmers' Bulletin No. 712. March
17, 1916.
CHILDREN'S BUREAU, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR.
Care of Children Series:
No. I. Prenatal Care. By Mrs. Max West.
No. 2. Infant Care. By Mrs. Max West.
No. 3. Child Care. By Mrs. Max West.
No. 4. Milk. By Dorothy R. Mendenhall, M.D.
Children's Year Follow-up Series:
No. i. What is Malnutrition ? By Lydia Roberts.
FARMERS' BULLETINS. UNITED STATES
DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
MARY HINMAN ABEL. Beans, Peas, and Other Legumes as
Food. No. 121. 1916.
CAROLINE L. HUNT and H. L. WESSLING. Bread and Bread-
Making in the Home. No. 807. 1917.
C. D. WOODS and HARRY SNYDER. Cereal Breakfast Foods.
No. 249. 1917.
C. F. LANGWORTHY and C. L. HUNT. Cheese and its Eco-
nomical Uses in the Diet. No. 487. 1917.
C. F. LANGWORTHY and C. L. HUNT. Corn Meal as a Food
and Ways of Using It. No. 565. 1917.
C. F. LANGWORTHY and C. L. HUNT. Corn, Kafir, and Cow-
peas in the Home. No. 559. 1913.
298 BIBLIOGRAPHY
CHARLES D. WOODS. Food Value of Corn and Corn Products.
No. 298. 1915.
C. F. LANGWORTHY. Use of Fruit as a Food. No. 293.
C. L. HUNT. Fresh Fruit and Vegetables as Conservers of
Other Staple Foods. Number 871. 1917.
C. L. HUNT. Honey and Its Uses in the Home. No. 653. 1915.
C. F. LANGWORTHY and C. L. HUNT. Economical Use of Meat
in the Home. No. 391. 1910.
CHARLES D. WOODS. Meats: Composition and Cooking.
No. 34. 1904.
WHITAKER, ROGERS, and C. L. HUNT. Milk: Care of and Use
in the Home. No. 413. 1917.
R. D. MILNER. The Use of Milk as Food. No. 363. 1916.
C. F. LANGWORTHY and C. L. HUNT. Mutton and Its Value
in the Diet. No. 526. 1916.
MARY HINMAN ABEL. Sugar and Its Value as Food. No. 535.
MARIA PARLOA. Preparation of Vegetables for the Table. No.
256. 1917.
MISCELLANEOUS PAMPHLETS
UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. Professional
Papers.
A. D. HOLMES and H. L. LANG. Fats and Their Economical
Use in the Home. Bulletin No. 469. December 15, 1916.
A. D. HOLMES. Studies on the Digestibility of Some Nut Oils.
Bulletin No. 630. April 16, 1918.
A. D. HOLMES. Digestibility of Proteins Supplied by Soy-Bean
and Peanut Press-Cake Flours. Bulletin No. 717. Sept. 25,
1918.
A. D. HOLMES. Digestibility of Certain Miscellaneous Animal
Fats. Bulletin No. 613. April 25, 1919.
A. D. HOLMES. Elements on the Digestibility of Fish. Bulletin
No. 649. April 13, 1918.
BIBLIOGRAPHY 299
THE AGRICULTURAL SITUATION FOR 1918. Part II. Dairying.
Circular No. 85. Jan. 31, 1918. Office of the Secretary.
OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY. Cottage Cheese Dishes. Circular
No. 109. April 15, 1918.
OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY. Use Rice Flour to Save Wheat.
Circular No. 119. 1918.
OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY. Use of Soy-Bean Flour to Save
Wheat, Meat, and Fat. Circular No. 113. 1918.
UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION Bulletins and Cir-
culars. 1917 and 1918.
INDEX
Abbreviations, 293.
Absorption of food, 234.
Albumen water, 271.
Allspice, 215.
Almond extract, 216.
Aluminum for kitchen utensils,
14.
Angel cake, 142.
Angel cream, 208.
Animal fats, 167.
Anise, seeds, 215; oil, 216.
Apple compote, 195; dumpling,
195; ginger, 224; porcupine, 197;
i pudding, 196; sauce, 197; tapioca
or sago, 197.
Apple sauce cake, 194.
Asparagus loaf, 157.
Babies. See Infants.
Bacon and eggs, 253.
Bacon (crisp) fat, 52.
Baked bananas (i), 189; bananas
(n), 190; beans, 90-92; bean
soup, 101; bread and cheese, 94;
cheese and pimento potato, 156;
fish, 73; haddock, in cheese
sauce, 74; halibut, with tomato
sauce, 73; hominy, 116; potatoes,
stuffed, 155; ripe cucumber, 159;
smelts, 84; stuffed green peppers,
161; tomatoes, 162.
Baking-powder, 124, 125.
Baking-powder method of mixing
breadstuff s, 123.
Baking-soda, 124.
Bananas, baked (i), 189; baked (n),
190; fried, 189.
Barley, 109, no.
Barley and rice flour muffins, 129.
Barley cookies, 280.
Barley sugar, 187.
Barley water, for infants, 262;
recipe for, 271.
Basil, 215.
Batter, pour, 121; drop, 121.
Bavarian cream, 205, 206; cara-
mel, 206; chocolate, 206; coffee,
206.
Bay-leaf, 215.
Bean, baked, soup, 101 ; black and
white, soups, flavoring for, 100;
dried, soup, 100; green, and
pickled beet salad, 175; lima, and
cheese roast, 95.
Beans, 21; baked, 90-92; mashed,
as basis for soups, 91; mold of,
1 60; soy, 89.
Beef, cuts of, 44-47; sides, 44;
quarters, 45; loin, 46; rump, 46;
round, 47.
Beef, oatmeal, and tomato, 59;
scraped, 271.
Beef essence, bottled, 289; broiled,
290.
Beef fat, 167.
Beef juice, 271.
Beef olives, 56; roll, 59; stew, 54;
tongue, fresh, 61.
Beef tea, bottled, 289; broiled, 290;
frozen, 290.
Beet sugar, 184.
Beverage recipes, 218-21: choco-
late, 219; coffee, cold water, 218;
coffee, filtered, 218; coffee, hot
water, 218; coffee and choco-
late, iced, 220; fruit punch, 220;
grape juice (i), 220; grape juice
(n), 221; lemon ginger ale, 220;
tea, 218; tea, iced, 219; tea,
Russian, 219.
Beverages: chocolate, 214; cocoa,
211, 214; coffee, 211-13; fruit
drinks, 214; tea, 211-13.
Bibliography, 295-99.
Bile, tne, 232.
Biscuits, cornmeal, 130.
Black bean soup, flavoring for, loo.
Boiled frosting, 143; leg of mutton,
57; macaroni with tomato sauce,
117; rice pudding, 193.
Boston baked beans. See Baked
beans.
302
INDEX
Boston cut, the, 44.
Boston roast, 102.
Bottled beef essence, 289; beef tea,
289.
Brains, 67; a la Newburg, 67; a la
Poulette, 67; deviled, 67; omelet,
68; salad, 68; scrambled, 68.
Braised lambs' hearts, 61; beef, 55.
Bran muffins, 128.
Bread, baked, and cheese, 94; corn-
meal and wheat, 133; crisp corn,
128; nut, 131; quick raisin, 130;
potato, 133; rice, 134; rolled oats,
133; rye, 134; spoon corn, 130.
Bread-making, grains used for, 109;
processes of, 126.
Bread method of mixing bread-
stuffs, 123.
Bread pudding, 190.
Breadstuffs, 19, 120; methods of
mixing, 122, 123; leavening
agents, 123-26.
Breakfast, 253, 254.
Breakfast cereals, ill; malted, 1 12 ;
used in other ways, 1 13.
Breast feeding, 260, 261.
Broiled beef essence, 290; beef tea,
290.
Broiling, 50.
Broth, clam, 81; for infants, 271.
Brown Betty, 191.
Brown Susan, 191.
Buckwheat griddle cakes, 131.
Butter, peanut, 92; as ingredient
of flour-mixtures, 122; used in
cooking, 167; nut, 169; fruit, 225.
Butter cake, 136.
Butters, nut, or margarines, 169.
Cabbage, and rice, 157; salad, hot,
174.
Cake, angel, 142; apple sauce, 194;
butter, 136; chocolate, or devil's
food, 139; chocolate nougat, 138;
date kisses, 189; Dutch apple,
196; golden, 142; Lady Balti-
more, 139; marshmallow, 137;
nut loaf, 140; sponge, 142; wal-
nut, 137.
Cake method of mixing breadstuffs,
123.
Calcium for the body, 23, 28, 146,
247.
Calorie, heat-unit, 239, 240.
Calves' tongues with tomato sauce,
60.
Camembert cheese, 87.
Canapes, cheese (i), 99; cheese (n),
99; oyster, 82.
Candies: cream candy, 188; fudge,
1 88; molasses candy, 188; Olym-
pian cream, 188; panocha, 187.
Candy, unwholesome between
meals, 234, 267, 275.
Cane sugar, 183, 184.
Canning of fish, 71, 72.
Caper sauce, 66.
Capers, 215.
Caramel, method of making, 186.
Caramel, Bavarian cream, 206;
frosting, 143; sauce, 203.
Caraway, 215.
Carbohydrates, 18, 105.
Carbon in foods, 18.
Carrot and green pepper salad, 175.
Carrot and orange marmalade, 222.
Cassareep, 217.
Casserole of roe, Maryland style,
68.
Cassia, 215.
Catchup, 217.
Cauliflower a la Hollandaise, 158.
Cayenne, 216.
Celery ramekins, 158.
Celery seeds, 215.
Cellulose, 20.
Cereal, meanings of the term, 106.
Cereal grains. See Grains.
Cereal gruels for young children,
264.
Cereal recipes, 114-19: baked hom-
iny, 116; boiled macaroni with
tomato sauce, 117; gnocchi alia
Romana, 118; green pea and
oatmeal soup, 115; macaroni
loaf, 118; macaroni with peppers,
117; oatmeal and spinach soup,
115; oatmeal pudding, 119; oat-
meal soup, 114; Pittsburgh samp,
119; rice and onion soup, 115;
rice with parsley or chives, 116;
scalloped rice, 116; Spanish pilaf,
117; Turkish pilaf, 117.
Cereals, 19; breakfast, in; malted,
112; puffed, 112; uncooked, 112;
cooking of, 1 13; in packages, 113;
INDEX
303
breakfast, used in other ways,
113; relative values of, as pur-
chased, 114; proportions for
cooking, 114.
Chambery potatoes, 154.
Charlotte russe, 207.
Cheese, 21 ; food value of, 85; com-
position of, 85; reasons for im-
portance of, in diet, 85; kinds, 86;
method of making, 86; ripening,
86, 87; digestion, 87, 88; care of,
88; use of, in diet, 88, 89.
Cheese recipes, 93-99 : baked bread
and cheese, 94; cheese and eggs,
98; cheese canapes (i), 99; cheese
canapes (n), 99; cheese cro-
quettes, 98; cheese filling, 96;
cheese jelly salad, 179; cheese
patties, 99; cheese ramekin, 97;
cheese scallop, 98 ; cheese souffle,
64, 94; cheese toast, 97; corn,
tomato, and cheese, 95; cottage
cheese nut loaf, 96; fondue, 93;
lima bean and cheese roast, 95;
risotto, 97; toasted sandwich, 95;
Welsh rarebit, 93.
Cherry puffs, 198; salad, 176.
Chicken, and fowl, how to dis-
tinguish between, 51 ; how to
dress, 51; how to truss, 51, 52;
use of the giblets for gravy, 52.
Chicken, chartreuse, 65; creamed,
with mushrooms, 62; fricassee
Creole, 63; smothered, 63.
Children, young, food of, 263-67;
good food-habits and table man-
ners in, to be formed early, 265;
diet for, at twelve months, 267;
diet for, at eighteen months, 268 ;
two to four years old, simple
menu for, 269; two to four years
old, list of foods allowed to, 269,
270. See Infants, School-chil-
dren.
Chili sauce, 228.
Chipped pears, 224.
Chocolate, as a beverage, 214; prep-
aration of, for the table, 219.
Chocolate, sweet, 181.
Chocolate and almond pudding,
202; Bavarian cream, 206; bread
pudding, 190; cake, 139; corn-
starch pudding, 193; hoovers,
140; nougat cake, 203; nut
cookies, 281; sauce, 203.
Chow chow, 227.
Chowder, clam, 81; corn, 34-; fish,
77; vegetable, 154.
Chutney, 217; recipe for making,
228.
Cinnamon, spice, 215; extract, 216.
Clam, broth, 81; chowder, 81.
Cleanliness, kitchen, 7, 12-15; of
the housekeeper, 16.
Clove extract, 217.
Cloves, 216.
Coal range, the, 10, II.
Cocoa, harmful ingredient of, 211;
method of preparation for mar-
ket, 214; method of making, 214.
Cocoanut oil, 169.
Cod, salted, 71.
Coddled egg, 271.
Codfish, salt, balls, 79; hash, 78.
Coffee, as ingredient of flour-
mixtures, 122; place of, in diet,
211, 213; harmful ingredient of,
21 1 ; method of preparation for
market, 213; varieties of, 213.
Coffee, cold water, 218; filtered, 218;
hot water, 218.
Coffee Bavarian cream, 206;
mousse, 207; parfait, 209.
Colds, diet in case of, 284.
Composition of foods, 17-25. See
Fruits, etc.
Compote, apple, 195.
Concentrated foods, 234.
Condiments. See Pickles, sauces,
preserves.
Conserve, currant, 224; plum (i),
224; plum (n), 225.
Cookies, 278; barley, 280; chocolate
nut, 281; molasses, 279.
Cooking fats, 167.
Corn, no.
Corn and potato loaf, 156; bread,
crisp, 128; bread, spoon, 130;
cake, Rhode Island, 127; cakes,
drop, 127; chowder, 34; dodger,
121 ; fritters, Creole, 159; meal
and wheat bread, 133; meal bis-
cuits, 130; muffins, 129; oysters,
158; pone, 127; pudding from
fresh corn, 159; tomato, and
cheese, 95.
304
INDEX
Corn oil, 167, 168.
Corned beef hash, 58.
Cornmeal, 122.
Cornstarch pudding, chocolate,
193-
Cottage cheese nut loaf, 96; ome-
let, 38; pudding, 194; supper
salad, 179.
Cottonseed oil, 167, 168.
Cream, angel, 208; Bavarian, 205,
206; marshmallow, 137; Olym-
pian, 188; Spanish, 205.
Cream candy, 188.
Cream of tartar, 124.
Creamed chicken with mushrooms,
62; eggs and potato, 156; pea-
nuts and rice, 104; omelet, 39;
sweetbreads, brains, or roe, 67.
Creamy egg, 37.
Creole corn fritters, 159; sauce, 65.
Crisp corn bread, 128.
Croquettes, 65; cheese, 98.
Cucumber, baked ripe, 159.
Cucumber and pineapple salad,
177.
Currant conserve, 224.
Curry powder, 216.
Curry sauce, 66.
Custard, baked, 36; soft or boiled,
36.
Cuts of beef, 44-47; digestibility
and nutritive value of the vari-
ous, 48.
Dairy herds, 27.
Date kisses, 189; pudding, 198.
Delmonico potatoes, 155.
Dessert recipes: angel cream, 208;
apple compote, 195; apple dump-
ling, 195; apple porcupine, 197;
apple pudding, 196; apple sauce,
197; apple sauce cake, 194; apple
tapioca or sago, 197; apricot
sauce, 192; baked bananas (r),
189; baked bananas (n), 190;
Bavarian cream, 205; boiled rice
pudding, 193; bread and butter
pudding with whipped cream,
190; bread puddings, 190; brown
Betty, 191; brown Susan, 191;
Charlotte russe, 207; cherry
puffs, 198; chocolate and almond
pudding, 202; chocolate corn-
starch pudding, 193; coffee
mousse, 207; coffee parfait, 209;
cottage pudding, 194; date kisses,
189; date pudding, 198; Dutch
apple cake, 196; fig pudding,
201; fig toast, 189; foamy sauce,
200; fried bananas, 189; frozen
orange whip, 209; fruit pudding,
205; fruit souffle, 208; 1-2-3 ice
cream, 210; I ndia"n pudding, 191;
Indian tapioca pudding, 192;
jellied walnuts, 204; Jerusalem
pudding, 207; lemon jelly, 204;
lemon sauce, 194; maple mousse,
209; molasses sauce, 206; orange
Bavaroise, 206; orange tapioca,
198; plum pudding without eggs,
201; poor man's pudding, 193;
prune pudding, 199; prune whip
(l), 199; prune whip (n), 199;
pudding sauces, 202-04; raisin
pudding, 201; rice and apricot
pudding, 192; rice flummery, 192;
Spanish cream, 205; splash, 208;
steamed suet and fruit pudding,
200; vanilla mousse, 209; walnut
ice, 210.
Devil's food, 138; or chocolate
cake, 139; filling for, 139.
Devonshire sauce, 217.
Dextrine, 105, 106.
Diabetes, food for, 286.
Diet, varied, 24, 253; a sufficient,
241-43; recommendations for
low-cost, 248, 249; for 3000 calo-
ries, 251; for child at twelve
months, 267 ; for child at eighteen
months, 268; in colds, 284; in
digestive troubles, 285.
Dietary standards, 243.
Diets, typical invalid, 282, 283;
recipes for invalid, 287-92.
Digestion, and fats, 164; the or-
gans and the process of, 229-33;
influences for good, 233, 234.
Digestive troubles, diet in case of,
285.
Dinner, 255-57; combinations suit-
able for, 257-59.
Dishwashing, 15.
Dough, soft, 121 ; stiff, 121.
Dressing, for turkey, 66; for wild
game, 66.
INDEX
305
Dressing a chicken, 51.
Dressings, salad. See Salad dress-
ings.
Dried bean soup, 100.
Drop corn cakes, 127; ginger cakes,
135-
Drops, sponge, 140.
Duck, mock, 55.
Dumpling, apple, 195.
Dutch apple cake, 196.
Dutch cheese, 87.
Egg and milk recipes, 34-41. See
Milk.
Egg lemonade, 288.
Eggnogs, 290.
Eggplant, fried, 159; scalloped,
159; stuffed, 1 60.
Eggs, protein in, 21, 26; food value
of, 32, 33; how to cook, 33;
boiled, 33; poached, 33; care of,
33; how to preserve, 33; as in-
gredient of flour mixtures, 122.
Eggs, cheese and, 98; coddled,
271; creamed, and potato, 156;
creamy, 37; in mashed potato,
41; poached, 37; scalloped, with
cottage cheese, 38; scrambled,
with asparagus, 37; scrambled,
with cottage cheese, 38; scram-
bled, with peas, 37; scrambled,
with tomato, 37. See Omelet.
Electric stove, the, II.
Elements, 17.
Enamel-ware, 14.
Enzymes, 231, 232.
Extracts, flavoring, 216, 217.
Fairy gingerbread, 135.
Farina cream soup, 35.
Farinaceous puddings, 291.
Farmers' Bulletins, the, 5.
Fats, 20; the chief source of heat
and energy in the body, 164; di-
gestibility of, 164; quantity used
in United States, 165; need to
save, 165; nature of, 165; use of,
1 66; table, 167; cooking, 167;
animal, 167; lard, 167; suet, 167;
mutton, 167; of poultry, 167;
oleomargarine, 168; vegetable,
1 68; nut butters or margarines,
169; place of, in the diet, 169;
ways of avoiding waste of, 170;
rendering of, 170; care of, 170;
flavoring of, 170; savory, 171;
digestibility of, 234; heat value
of, 240.
Fat-soluble A, 24, 147, 148.
Fennel, 215.
Ferments, organized, 230; unor-
ganized, 231.
Fevers, food for, 285.
Fig filling, 137; pudding, 201 ; toast,
189.
Fillet, of beef, 46; of fish, stuffed
with oysters, 74.
Filling, 139; cheese, 96; fig, 137;
for devil's food, 139; sour-cream,
.137-
Finnan haddie, 80; savory, 80;
Scottish, 79.
Fireless cookers, n.
Fish, 21 ; comparative use of, in
United States and in Europe, 69;
composition of, 69; groups of, 69,
70; buying, 70; the preserving of,
71 ; frozen, 71 ; salted, 71 ; canned,
71, 72; care of, 72i_w ; ay : of
cooking, 72, 73.
Fish recipes: baked fish, 73; clam
broth, 81; clam chowder, 81;
codfish balls, 79; codfish (salt)
hash, 78; fillets of fish, stuffed
with oysters, 74; fish a la cieme,
79; fish chowder, 77; haddock a
la Newton, 75; haddock baked
in cheese sauce, 74; halibut,
baked, with tomato sauce, 73;
halibut, molded, 75; kedgeree,
76; finnan haddie, 80; finnan
haddie, savory, 80; finnan haddie,
Scottish, 79; oyster canapes, 82;
oysters, fairy roast, 82; oysters,
fried, 82; oysters, jellied, 83;
oysters, panned, 82; oysters,
sauted, 83; potato shredded fish
souffle, 78; salmon timbale or
loaf, 76; scalloped fish, 76; scal-
lops (i), 83; scallops (n), 83;
scallops, stewed, 83; scrod, to
cook, 74; shrimp wiggle, 77;
smelts, baked, 84; smelts, fried,
84; whitebait, 84.
Flavoring herbs, spices, and ex-
tracts, 215-17.
306
INDEX
Flaxseed lemonade, 288.
Flour, kinds of, 109; grades of, 120,
121 ; graham, 121; entire wheat,
121.
Flour-mills, 108.
Flour mixtures, 121; proportions
for, 12 1 ; effect of ingredients on,
122.
Fluid diet, 282.
Flummery, rice, 192.
Foamy sauce, 200.
Fondue, 93.
Food, the importance of, 1-5;
health dependent on, 4; habits
concerning, 4, 5; care of, 14, 15;
composition of, 17-25; definition
of, 17; energy-producing, 19;
containing starch, 19; containing
sugar, 19; heat-producing, 20;
containing nitrogen, 21; tissue-
producing, 21 ; containing min-
eral matter, 22-24; nve classes
of, 26; the process of utilization
of, one of combustion, 229; di-
gestion of, 229-34; concentrated,
234; absorption of, 234; uses of,
in the body, 235; wastes in proc-
ess of utilization of, 235, 236;
diagram of changes undergone
by, in the body, 237; fuel, 238,
239; fuel values of, 240, 241;
building material supplied by,
243-47; cost of, 248, 249; groups
of, based on chemical composi-
tion, 250; division of, into meals,
251, 252; for infants and young
children, 260-72; list of articles
of, allowed a child two to four
years old, 269, 270; recipes for
infant, 271, 272; good supply
necessary for school-children,
273; the right, for school-chil-
dren, 274; vagaries in, harmful,
2 75; typical invalid diets, 282,
283; serving of, to invalids, 283;
requirement of, in sickness, 283,
284; for slight illnesses, 284, 285;
for special diseases, 285-87.
Fowl. See Chicken.
French omelet, 40.
Fricassee, chicken, Creole, 63.
Fricasseed rabbit, 63.
Fried bananas, 189; eggplant, 159;
oysters fancy roast, 82; salt
pork, 58; smelts, 84.
"Frikasie," a, 63.
Fritters, Creole corn, 159.
Frosting, boiled, 143; caramel, 143;
maple sugar, 136; uncooked, 144.
Frosting sauce, 202.
Frozen beef tea, 290; orange whip,
209.
Fruit butter, 225; pudding, 205;
punch, 220; salads, see Salad;
souffle, 208.
Fruit drinks, 214.
Fruit sugar, 185.
Fruits, composition of, 22-24, 146;
a source of minerals, 23, 24, 146;
a source of vitamines, 24, 147,
148; consumption of, should be
increased, 145; ways of grouping,
148; uses of, 149, 152; prepara-
tion of pectin for jellying of, 152,
153; sugar in, 185.
Fudge, 1 88.
Fuel, need of, for the body, 238;
provided by food, 238, 239.
Game, wild, dressing, 66.
Garlic, 215.
Gas stove, the, n.
Gastric juice, 231.
German horseradish sauce, 57.
Giblet gravy, 62.
Ginger, 216.
Ginger ale, lemon, 220.
Ginger ale salad, 177.
Gingerbread, fairy, 135; old-fash-
ioned soft, 135; soft, 135.
Ginger cakes, drop, 135.
Ginger snaps, 279.
Glucose, 185.
Gluten, 107.
Gnocchi alia Romana, 118.
Golden cake, 142; sauce, 2O2.
Gout, food for, 287.
Graham flour, 121.
Grain, structure of the kernels of,
1 06, 107.
Grains, cereal, 107, 108; milling,
1 08; used for bread-making, 109;
barley, 109, no; corn, no; oats,
no; rice, in; rye, in. See
Cereals.
Grape juice, 220, 221.
INDEX
307
Grape marmalade, 221; preserves,
221.
Grapes, spiced, 221.
Green peppers stuffed with cow
peas, 101.
Green tomato marmalade, 223.
Griddle cakes, buckwheat, 131.
Griddle cakes, difficult to digest,
253-
Grilled muffins, 132.
Grinding, 108.
Gruels, cereal, for young children,
264; recipes for, 272, 290.
Habits, food, 4, 5.
Haddock, a la Newton, 75; baked
in cheese sauce, 74.
Halibut, baked, with tomato sauce,
73; molded, 75.
Hamburg steak, 56.
Hard sauce, 202.
Harvey sauce, 217.
Hash, corned beef, 58; salt codfish,
78; vegetable, 155.
Health dependent on food, 4.
Hearts, lambs', braised, 61.
Heat, unit of, the calorie, 239, 240.
Herbs, flavoring, 215.
Hind shin, the, 47.
Hindu salad, 176.
Hoe-cake, 121.
Hollandaise sauce, 158.
Holt, Dr., Care of the Baby, 262.
Hominy, 112; baked, 116; cake,
128; puffs, 127.
Honey, 185.
Hoovers, chocolate, 140.
Horseradish sauce, German, 57.
Housekeeper, the responsibility of,
I, 2.
Housekeeping, the profession of,
2-4.
Ice cream, 1-2-3, 2I -
Iced coffee and chocolate, 220; tea,
219.
Indian pudding, 191; tapioca pud-
ding, 192.
Infants, mother's milk for, 260,
261; modified milk for, 261, 262;
other foods for, 262; regular
feeding hours for, 263; recipes for
foods for, 271, 272. See Children.
Intestine, small and large, 232, 233.
Invalid diets, recipes for, 287-92:
bottled beef essence, 289; bottled
beef tea, 289; broiled beef es-
sence, 290; broiled beef tea, 290;
egg lemonade, 288; eggnogs, 290;
farinaceous puddings, 291; flax-
seed lemonade, 288; frozen beef
tea, 290; gruels, 290; Irish moss
blanc mange, 292; Irish moss
lemonade, 289; jellies, 292; ku-
myss, 289; lemon whey, 288;
lemonade, 288; syrup for fruit
beverages, 288; tapioca pud-
dings, 291; toast water, 287.
Invalids, typical diets for,'282, 283;
serving of food to, 283; food re-
quirement of, 283, 284.
Invert sugar, 185.
Irish moss blanc mange, 292;
lemonade, 289.
Iron, needed in the body, 23, 246;
portions containing two milli-
grams, 246, 247.
Jam, peach, and marmalade, 222.
Japanese salad, 178.
Jellied oysters, 83; walnuts, 204.
Jelly, for invalids, 292; lemon, 204;
orange Bavaroise, 206; quince
and cranberry, 225; tomato
salad, 176.
Jellying, preparation of pectin for,
152, 153-
Jerusalem pudding, 207.
Jumbles, peanut butter, 280.
Junket, 272.
Kedgeree, 76.
Kentucky potatoes, 154.
Kerley, Dr., Short Talks with
Young Mothers, 262.
Kernels, structure of, 106, 107.
Ketchup. See Catchup.
Kisses, date, 189.
Kitchen, skilled labor in, 6; the old-
fashioned, 7; plan of, 7-9; equip-
ment of, 10-16.
Kumyss, 289.
Labor-saving devices in
kitchen, 10.
Lady Baltimore cake, 139.
the
308
INDEX
Lamb, breast of, roast, 57.
Lambs' hearts, braised, 61.
Lard, 167.
Leavening agents, 123-26.
Legumes, 89-92. See Bean(s),
Pea(s), Pulses.
Legumes, recipes for, 99-104:
baked bean soup, 101 ; Boston
roast, 102; creamed peanuts and
rice, 104; dried bean soup, 100;
green peppers stuffed with cow
peas, 101; lentil loaf, 101; lentil
or split-pea soup, 99; pecan nut
loaf, white sauce, 102; rice and
nut loaf, 103; vegetable roast,
103.
Lemon bread pudding, 190; ginger
ale, 220; jelly, 204; sauce, 194;
whey, 288.
Lemon extract, 217.
Lemonade, 288; egg, 288; flaxseed,
288; Irish moss, 289.
Lentil loaf, 101 ; or split-pea soup,
99-
Liberty muffins, 128.
Light or convalescent diet, 283.
Lima bean and cheese roast, 95.
Limewater, 261, 272.
Liver, function of the, 230.
Loaf, asparagus, 157; corn and po-
tato, 156; cottage cheese nut, 96;
lentil, 101; macaroni, 118; pecan
nut, white sauce, 102; prune,
131; rice and nut, 103; salmon,
76.
Loin, the, 46.
Lunch, school and college, 277.
Lunch-box, the planning of the,
276; recipes for the, 278-81.
Luncheon, 254, 255.
Lungs, function of the, 230.
Macaroni, boiled, with tomato
sauce, 117; with peppers, 117.
Macaroons, nut, 141; Swedish, 141.
Mace, 216.
Magnesium in fruits and vege-
tables, 24.
Malt, 112.
Malt sugar, 185.
Malted breakfast foods, 1 12.
Maltose, 106.
Maple mousse, 209.
Maple sugar, 183.
Maple sugar frosting, 136.
Margarines, nut, 169.
Marguerites, 141.
Marjoram, 215.
Marmalade, carrot and orange,
222; grape, 221; green tomato,
223; orange, 222; peach jam and,
222.
Marshmallow cake, 137; cream or
paste, 137.
Mastication, proper, importance of,
231, 233-
Meals, division of food into, 251,
252; regularity of hours of, de-
sirable, 252 ; variety in, essential,
252, 253. See Breakfast, etc.
Measures, a table of, 293.
Meat, 21 ; cost of, 42; composition
of, 42, 43; tough and tender, 43,
44; ways of cooking, 48; soup-
making, 48, 49; roasting and
broiling, 49, 50; stewing, 50.
Meat recipes, 53-68.
Meat ball with horseradish sauce,
56; pie, rice, 60; scalloped, 59.
Menu, simple, for child two to four
years old, 269; for the school
lunch-box, 278.
Menus, the making of, 248-59.
Milk, protein in, 21, 26, 27, 29;
calcium in, 22, 23, 28; food value
of, 27-29; a "protective food,"
27; sugar of, 28, 184, 185; vita-
mines in, 28; price of, 29; use of,
in cooking, 30; care of, 30-32;
grades of, 30, 31 ; pasteurized, 31 ;
sterilized, 31, 32; care of bottles
and other utensils used for, 32;
skimmed, 32; mother's and modi-
fied, for infants, 260-63.
Milk and egg recipes, 34-41 : baked
custard, 36; corn chowder, 34;
cottage cheese omelet, 38; cream
of cottage cheese soup, 35 ; cream
soups, 35; creamed omelet, 39;
creamy egg, 37; eggs in mashed
potato, 41; farina cream soup,
35; French omelet, 40; hearty
omelet, 40; light omelet, 39; ome-
let souffle, 39; poached egg, 37;
potage a la reine, 35; scalloped
eggs with cottage cheese, 38;
INDEX
309
scrambled eggs with asparagus,
37; scrambled eggs with cottage
cheese, 38; scrambled eggs with
peas, 37; scrambled eggs with
tomato, 37; soft or boiled cus-
tard, 36; spinach omelet, 40.
Mills and milling, 108.
Mince meat, tomato, 223.
Mineral matter in food, 22-24, 146,
- 147 '
Mint, 215.
Mixed spices, 196, 279.
Mock duck, 55.
Molasses candy, 188; cookies, 279;
sauce, 196.
Mold, of peas or beans, 160; of
spinach, 161.
Mother's scalloped potatoes, 155.
Mousse, coffee, 207; maple, 209;
vanilla, 209.
Mouth, the, 230.
Muffin, bread, and cake recipes,
127-44: angel cake, 142; barley
and rice flour muffins, 129; boiled
frosting, 143; bran muffins, 128;
buckwheat griddle cakes, 131;
butter cake, 136; caramel frost-
ing, 143; chocolate cake, or
devil's food, 139; chocolate hoov-
ers, 140; chocolate nougat cake,
139; cornmeal and wheat bread,
133; cornmeal biscuits, 130; corn
muffins, 129; corn pone, 127;
crisp corn bread, 128; devil's
food, 138; drop corn cakes, 127;
drop ginger cakes, 135; fairy
gingerbread, 135; fig filling, 137;
filling, 139; filling for devil's food,
139; golden cake, 142; grilled
muffins, 132; hominy puffs, 127;
Lady Baltimore cake, 139; lib-
erty muffins, 128; maple sugar
frosting, 136; marguerites, 141;
marshmallow cake, 137; marsh-
mallow cream or paste, 137; nut
bread, 131; nut loaf cake, 140;
nut macaroons, 141; old-fash-
ioned soft gingerbread, 135; pis-
tachio paste, 138; potato bread,
133; prune loaf, 131; quick raisin
bread, 130; raised muffins, 132;
raised waffles, 132; Rhode Island
corn cake, 127; rice bread, 134;
rice or hominy cake, 128; rolled
oats bread, 133; rye bread, 134;
rye muffins, 129; soft ginger-
bread, 135; sour-cream filling,
137; sponge cake, 142; sponge
drops, 140; spoon corn bread,
130; Swedish macaroons, 141;
uncooked frosting, 144; walnut
cake, 137.
Muffin method of mixing bread-
stuffs, 122.
Mush, 108, 264.
Mustard, seeds, 216; prepared, 216.
Mustard pickle, 227.
Mutton, leg of, boiled, 57; stew,
57-
Mutton fat, 167.
New York or Philadelphia cut, the,
44, 45-
Nitrogen in food, 21, 244, 245.
Nursing mothers, suggestions for,
260, 261.
Nut bread, 131; loaf, cottage
cheese, 96; (pecan) loaf, white
sauce, 102; loaf cake, 140; loaf
and rice, 103; macaroons, 141.
Nut butter, and nut butters or
margarines, 169.
Nutmeg, 216.
Nutrition, an exact science, 5.
Nuts, 21, 92, 93.
Oatmeal, and spinach soup, 115;
beef, and tomato, 59; green pea
and, soup, 115; soup, 114.
Oats, no; rolled, 112.
Oil, salad, 167; olive, 167, 168; cot-
tonseed, 167, 168; corn, 167, 168;
peanut, 169; cocoanut, 169; from
other seeds, 169.
Oil pickles, 226.
Oleomargarine, 168.
Olive oil, 167, 168.
Olives, beef, 56.
Olympian cream, 188.
Omelet, cottage cheese, 38;
creamed, 39; French, 40; a
hearty, 40; light, 39; souffle, 39;
spinach, 40; sweetbreads, brains,
or roe, 68.
Onion and rice soup, 115.
Orange and grape salad, 178; Bava-
3io
INDEX
roise, 206; marmalade, 222;
whip, frozen, 209.
Orange extract, 217.
Orange juice, for young children,
262.
Organized ferments, 230.
Organs of digestion, 229-33.
Oyster canapes, 82; salad, 180.
Oysters, corn, 158; fancy roast, 82;
fried, 82; jellied, 83; panned, 82;
sauted, 83.
Panned oysters, 82.
Panocha, 187.
Paprika, 216.
Paste, marshmallow, 137; pis-
tachio, 138.
Pasteurization, 31.
Pastry or baking-powder method
of mixing breadstuffs, 123.
Patties, cheese, 99.
Pea (green), and oatmeal soup, 115;
salad, 175; souffle, 160.
Peach and ripe olive salad, 178;
jam and marmalade, 222.
Peanut, the, 89, 90, 92.
Peanut butter, 92; oil, 169.
Peanut butter jumbles, 280.
Peanuts and rice, creamed, 104.
Pear salad, 178.
Pears, chipped, 224.
Peas, 21.
Peas, mold of, 160.
Pecan nut loaf, white sauce, 102.
Pectin, 152, 153.
Pepper hash, 227.
Peppermint extract, 217.
Peppers, 216.
Peppers, green, stuffed and baked,
161 ; green, stuffed with cow peas,
101.
Pepsin, 231.
Phosphorus, needed in the body,
246.
Pickle, mustard, 227.
Pickles, 217; oil, 226; sweet, 226.
Pickling, 226-28.
Pie, rice meat, 60; shepherd's, 60.
Pigs in clover, 62.
Pilaf, Spanish, 117; Turkish, 117.
Pistachio paste, 138.
Pittsburgh samp, 119.
Plain stew, 54.
Plum conserve, 224, 225; pudding
without eggs, 201.
Poached egg, 37.
Pone, corn, 127.
Poor man's pudding, 193.
Porcupine, apple, 197.
Pork, 52.
Pork, salt, fried, 58; with baked
beans, 97.
Potage a la reine, 35.
Potassium, need of, for functioning
of the body, 24; in fruit and vege-
tables, 146.
Potato, as staple of diet, 145;
starch in, 146; baked, 149.
Potato, bread, 133; loaf, corn and,
156; salad, 175; shredded fish
souffle, 78; soup, 154.
Potatoes, chambery, 154; creamed
eggs and, 156; Delmonico, 155;
goldenrod, 156; Kentucky, 154;
mashed company style, 154;
mashed, eggs in, 41; mother's
scalloped, 155; pimento, baked
cheese, 156; stuffed baked, 155.
Poultry, fat of, 167. See Chicken.
Poultry stuffing, herbs used in, 215.
Preserves: apple ginger, 224; carrot
and orange marmalade, 222;
chipped pears, 224; currant con-
serve, 224; fruit butter, 225;
grape marmalade, 221; grape
preserves, 221; green tomato
marmalade, 223; orange marma-
lade, 222; peach jam and mar-
malade, 222; plum conserve (i),
224; plum conserve (n), 225;
quince and cranberry jelly, 225;
raspberry bar-le-duc, 225; spiced
grapes, 221; tomato mince meat,
223; tomato preserve, 223.
Protein, 21; foods containing, 26,
244; necessary quantity of, 244,
245; one half ounce portions of,
245, 246.
Prune juice, 272.
Prune loaf, 131; pudding, 199;
whip (i), 199; whip (n), 199.
Pudding, apple, 196; apple tapioca
or sago, 197; boiled rice, 193;
bread and butter, with whipped
cream, 190; bread, 190; brown
Betty, 191; brown Susan, 191;
INDEX
cherry puffs, 198; chocolate and
almond, 202; chocolate corn-
starch, 193; corn, from fresh
corn, 159; cottage, 194; date,
198; farinaceous, for invalids,
291; fig, 201; fruit, 205; Indian,
191; Indian tapioca, 192; Jeru-
salem, 207; oatmeal, 119; orange
tapioca, 198; plum, without eggs,
201; poor man's, 193; prune, 199;
raisin, 201; rice and apricot, 192;
rice flummery, 192; steamed suet
and fruit, 200; tapioca, for in-
valids, 291.
Pudding sauce, brown sugar, 203;
caramel, 203; chocolate, 203;
frosting, 202; golden, 202; hard,
202; raisin, 203; vanilla, 203.
Puffed cereals, 112.
Puffs, cherry, 198; hominy, 127.
Pulses, 89-92: value as food, 89;
the soy bean and the peanut, 89,
90, 92; how to use, 90; baked
beans, 90-92; ways of serving
boiled, 91. See Legumes.
Punch, fruit, 220.
Quarters of beef, 45.
Buick raisin bread, 130.
uince and cranberry jelly, 225.
Rabbit, fricasseed, 63.
Raised muffins, 132; waffles, 132.
Raisin bread, quick, 130; pudding,
201; sauce, 203.
Ramekin, celery, 158; cheese, 97.
Rarebit, Welsh, 93.
Raspberry bar-le-duc, 225.
Refrigerator, the, 9, 12, 13.
Rendering of fats, 170.
Rennin, 231.
Rheumatism, food for, 287.
Rhode Island corn cake, 127.
Rice, in.
Rice, and apricot pudding, 192;
and barley flour muffins, 129;
and nut loaf, 103; and onion
soup, 115; and peanuts, creamed,
104; bread, 134; cabbage and,
157; cakes, 128; flummery, 192;
meat pie, 60; pudding, boiled,
193; scalloped, 116; with parsley
or chives, 1 16.
Risotto, 97.
Roasting, 49.
Roe, shad or other, 67; a la New-
burg, 67; a la Poulette, 67;
broiled, 68; creamed, 67; en
casserole, Maryland style, 68;
omelet, 68; salad, 68.
Roll, beef, 59.
Rolled oats, 112.
Rolled oats and peanut butter
cookies, 280; bread, 133; wafers,
281.
Roquefort cheese, 86.
Round, the, 47.
Rump, the, 46.
Russian tea, 219.
Rye, in.
Rye bread, 134; muffins, 129.
Saffron, 215.
Sage, 215.
Sago, 1 06.
Sago, apple, 197.
Salad, carrot and green pepper,
175; cheese jelly, 179; cherry,
176; cottage cheese, 179; cottage
cheese supper, 179; cucumber
and pineapple, 177; ginger ale,
177; hot cabbage, 174; green
bean and pickled beet, 175;
Hindu, 176; Japanese, 178; or-
ange and grape, 178; oyster, 180;
pea, 175; peach and ripe olive,
178; pear, 178; potato, 175; to-
mato salad jelly, 176; trans-
Mississippi Exposition, 178.
Salad, sweetbreads, brains, or roe,
68.
Salad dressing, boiled, 172; boiled,
for fruit salad, 174; California
mayonnaise, 172; cream, 173;
French, 172; mayonnaise, 173;
Russian, 174.
Salad oil, 167.
Salads, chicken and lobster, diffi-
cult to digest, 253.
Salisbury steak, 56.
Saliva, the, 230.
Salmon, canned, 71.
Salmon timbale or loaf, 76.
Salt, 23.
Salt codfish balls, 79; hash, 78.
Salt fish, 71.
312
INDEX
Salt pork, fried, 58; with baked
beans, 92.
Samp, Pittsburgh, 119.
Sandwich, toasted, 95.
Sardines, 72.
Sauces: apple, 197; foamy, 200;
Hollandaise, 158; lemon, 194;
molasses, 196.
Sauces for meats, fish, etc.:
brown, 103; caper, 66; cheese, 74;
cream, 162; Creole, 65; curry, 66;
for molded halibut, 73; tomato,
73> 78, 1 02, 104, 118; white, 102.
Sauces, pudding: brown sugar, 203;
caramel, 203; chocolate, 203;
frosting, 202; golden, 202; hard,
202; raisin, 203; vanilla, 203.
Sauces, relishes: cassareep, 217;
catchup, 217; chili sauce, 228;
chutney, 217; Devonshire sauce,
217; Harvey sauce, 217; soy
sauce, 217; Tabasco sauce, 217;
walnut catchup, 217; Worces-
tershire sauce, 217.
Sauted oysters, 83.
Savory, summer, 215.
Savory fats, 171.
Savory finnan haddie, 80.
Scallop, cheese, 98.
Scalloped eggplant, 159; eggs with
cottage cheese, 38; fish, 76; green
tomatoes, 162; meat, 59; pota-
toes, mother's, 155; rice, 116.
Scallops (i), 83; (n), 83; stewed, 83.
School-children, good supply of
food necessary for, 273; signs of
good health in, 273; the right
food for, 274; vagaries in food of,
harmful, 275; the planning of
the lunch-box for, 276.
Scottish fancies or rolled oats
wafers, 281.
Scottish finnan haddie, 79.
Scrambled brains, 68, eggs, with
asparagus, 37 ; eggs, with cottage
cheese, 38; eggs, with peas, 37;
eggs, with tomato, 37.
Scrod, to cook, 74.
Shad or other roe. See Roe.
Shellfish. See Clam(s), oyster(s),
scallops, shrimp.
Shepherd's pie, 60.
Shrimp wiggle, 77.
Sides of beef, 44.
Sink, the, 9, 13, 14.
Smelts, baked, 84; fried, 84.
Smith, Dr. Richard, The Baby's
First Two Years, 262.
Smothered chicken, 63.
Soda, baking, 124.
Sodium, need of, in the body, 23;
in fruit and vegetables, 146.
Soft gingerbread, 135; old-fash-
ioned gingerbread, 135.
Soft or semi-solid diet, 283.
Souffle, 64; cheese, 64, 94; fruit,
208; omelet, 39; pea, 160; potato
shredded fish, 78; squash, 162.
Soup, baked bean, 101; black and
white bean, flavoring for, 100;
dried bean, 100; cheese, 34;
cream, 34; cream of cottage
cheese, 35; farina cream, 35;
green pea and oatmeal, 115; len-
til and split pea, 99; mashed
beans as basis for, 91; oatmeal,
114; oatmeal and spinach, 115;
peanut, 34; potage a la reine, 35;
potato, 154; rice and onion, 115;
tomato, 153; vegetable, 153;
wheat cream, 36.
Soup-making from meat, 48, 49.
Soup stock, 53; to clarify, 53.
Sour-cream filling, 137.
Soy bean, 89, 90.
Soy sauce, 217.
Spanish cream, 205; pilaf, 117.
Sparerib, stuffed, 58.
Spiced grapes, 221.
Spices, mixed, 196, 279; use of the
various, 215, 216; as ingredient
of flour-mixtures, 122.
Spinach, mold of, 161 ; oatmeal and,
soup, 115; omelet, 40.
Splash, 208.
Split-pea soup, 99.
Sponge cake, 142; drops, 140.
Spoon corn bread, 130.
Squash souffle, 162.
Starch, 19; changes undergone by,
105, 106; source of, 106; in the
potato, 146; converted into
sugar, in the body, 231, 232.
Steak, Hamburg, 56; Salisbury,
56.
Steaks, 46.
INDEX
313
Steamed suet and fruit pudding,
200.
Sterilization, 31, 32.
Stew, beef, 54; mutton, 57; plain,
54 '.
Stewing, 50.
Stomach, action of the, 231.
Stoves, kinds of, 10, n ; care of, II,
12.
Stuffed and baked green peppers,
161; baked potatoes, 155; egg-
plant, 160; sparerib, 58.
Stuffing, 55; poultry, herbs used in,
215.
Sucrose, 183.
Suet, 167.
Suet and fruit pudding, steamed,
200.
Sugar, as ingredient of flour mix-
tures, 122; value as food, 181;
danger of improper use of, 181;
valuable to prevent exhaustion
under physical stress, 181; earlier
forms in which it was used, 182;
supply of, 182, 183; shortage of,
during the War, 183; kinds of,
183; cane, 183, 184; beet, 184;
of milk, 185; malt, 185; fruit, 185;
invert, 185; action of, on boiling,
1 86; barley, 187; proper use of,
in diet, 187.
Sugar of milk, 28, 184, 185.
Sugars, 19, 183-85.
Sulphur, needed in the body, 246.
Summer savory, 215.
Supper, 254, 255.
Swedish macaroons, 141.
Sweet pickles, 226.
Sweetbreads, 67; a la Newburg, 67;
a la Poulette, 67; creamed, 67;
omelet, 68; salad, 68.
Swiss cheese, 87.
Syrup, action in'boiling, 186; tests
of, 1 86; for fruit beverages, 288.
Tabasco, 216, 217.
Table fats, 167.
Tapioca, apple, 197; orange, 198;
puddings, for invalids, 291.
Tarragon, 215.
Tea, place of, in diet, 211, 213;
harmful ingredient of, 211;
method of preparation for mar-
ket, 212; kinds of, 212; Pekoe,
212; Oolong, 212; Orange Pekoe,
212; Chinese, 212; Indian, 212;
Ceylon, 212; green, 212; black,
212; method of making, 212.
Tea, 218; iced, 219; Russian, 219.
Teeth, the, 229.
Tenderloin, the, 46.
Thyme, 215.
Timbale, salmon, 76.
Toast, cheese, 97.
Toast water, 287.
Tomato, beef, oatmeal, and, 59;
corn, and cheese, 95.
Tomato preserve, 223; (green)
marmalade, 223; mince meat,
223; salad jelly, 95; soup, 153.
Tomatoes, baked, 162; fried, with
cream dressing, 162; scalloped
green, 162.
Tongue, calves', with tomato sauce,
60; fresh beef's, 61.
Trans-Mississippi Exposition salad,
178.
Trussing, 51, 52.
Tuberculosis, food for, 286.
Turkey, dressing for, 66.
Turkish pilaf, 117.
Typhoid fever, food for, 285.
Uncooked frosting, 144.
Unorganized ferments, 231.
Utensils, kitchen, 7-9, 14.
Vanilla extract, 217.
Vanilla mousse, 209; sauce, 203.
Vegetable fats, 168.
Vegetable recipes, 153-63: aspara-
gus loaf, 157; baked cheese and
pimento potato, 156; baked ripe
cucumber, 159; baked tomatoes,
162; cabbage and rice, 157; cauli-
flower a la Hollandaise, 158; cel-
ery ramekins, 158; Chambery
potatoes, 154; corn and potato
loaf, 156; corn pudding from
fresh corn, 159; corn oysters,
159; creamed eggs and potato,
156; Creole corn fritters, 159;
Delmonico potatoes, 155; fried
eggplant, 159; fried tomatoes
with cream dressing, 162; Hol-
landaise sauce, 158; Kentucky
314
INDEX
potatoes, 154; mashed potatoes
company style, 154; mold of
peas or beans, 160; mold of
spinach, 161 ; mother's scalloped
potatoes, 155; pea souffle, 160;
potato soup, 154; potatoes gold-
enrod, 156; scalloped eggplant,
159; scalloped green tomatoes,
162; squash souffle, 162; stuffed
and baked green tomatoes, 161;
stuffed baked potatoes, 155;
stuffed eggplant, 160; tomato
soup, 153; vegetable chowder,
!54: vegetable hash, 155; vege-
table roast, 103; vegetable soup,
153. See Legumes.
Vegetable salads, 174-76. See
Salad.
Vegetables, composition of, 22-24,
146; a source of minerals, 23, 24,
146; a source of vitamines, 24,
147, 148; consumption of, should
be increased, 145; leaf, 146, 147;
ways of grouping, 148; cooking
of, 148, 149; summary of food
value, cooking, and serving of,
150, 151.
Vein, the, 47.
Vitamines, 24; in milk, 28; in plant
leaves, 147; in fruits and green
vegetables, 247.
Waffles, raised, 132.
Walnut cake, 137; catchup, 217;
ice, 210.
Walnuts, jellied, 204.
Wastes, the elimination of, in the
body, 235, 236.
Water, composition of, 18; impor-
tance of, 1 8, 229; pure, 18; plain
boiled, for infants, 262.
Water glass, 33.
Water-soluble B, 24, 148.
Wheat, 120.
Wheat cream soup, 36.
Whey, 272; lemon, 288.
Whip, frozen orange, 209; prune
(i), 199; prune (n), 199.
White bean soup, flavoring for, loo.
Whitebait, 84.
Wiggle, shrimp, 77.
Wintergreen extract, 217.
Woody fiber, 20.
Worcestershire sauce, 217.
Yeast, 125.
flifcersibe
CAMBRIDGE . MASSACHUSETTS
U . S . A
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below
MAR 2 5 1931.
JUN
' -,- .-
23
MAY 1 6 1939
Form L- 9-1 Om-5,'28
,
MAR 8 . J|
\\
UNIVERSITY of CALIFORNIA
AT
LOS ANGELES
A 00050385
